005.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-005</TITLE>
005.sgm:<TITLE>A California tramp and later footprints; or, Life on the plains and in the golden state thirty years ago, with miscellaneous sketches in prose and verse ... illustrated with thirty-nine wood and photo-engravings.  By T.S. Kenderdine:  a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
005.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
005.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
005.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
005.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
005.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
005.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
005.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>16-25410</LCCN>
005.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
005.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>237566</COPYRIGHT>
005.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P><illus entity="a005-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>UP THE VALLEY OF THE PLATTE.</P>
005.sgm:<P>A</P>
005.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA TRAMP</P>
005.sgm:<P>AND</P>
005.sgm:<P>LATER FOOTPRINTS;</P>
005.sgm:<P>OR,</P>
005.sgm:<P>LIFE ON THE PLAINS AND IN THE GOLDEN STATE THIRTY YEARS AGO,</P>
005.sgm:<P>WITH MISCELLANEOUS SKETCHES IN PROSE AND VERSE.</P>
005.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATED WITH THIRTY-NINE WOOD AND PHOTO-ENGRAVINGS.</P>
005.sgm:<P>BY</P>
005.sgm:<P>T. S. KENDERDINE.</P>
005.sgm:<P>NEWTOWN, PA.</P>
005.sgm:<P>1888</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Copyright</HI>
005.sgm:, 1888, <HI REND="italics">by T. S. Kenderdine</HI>
005.sgm:<P>PRESS OF GLOBE PRINTING HOUSE,</P>
005.sgm:<P>112 N. 12 St. Philadelphia.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Preface.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>THIS book was not written to fill a long-felt want.  Neither was it at the "urgent solicitations of my friends," many of whom do not know that I made the journey herein described.  Nor was it written to make money, but rather with a reverse expectation.  I wrote it partly at the request of my immediate family, partly with the hope that it would interest my friends as well as a portion of the outside public, partly to experience the sensations of authorship.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The title of the work is capable of two constructions--a pedestrian journey, and the nomadic life I led for a time in the likeness of the Ishmaelites which infest our rural districts, with the exception in respect to the last part-and a blessed exception it is--that while an Eastern tramp hunts work, praying he wont find it, his Occidental brother did the contrary.  As to the first rendering, it might be open to criticism, inasmuch as two-thirds of the overland journey was by rail and water; but I can plead Mark Twain in his "Tramp Abroad" as an extenuating example; his walking being done on cars and steamboats.  But as he was guilty of the hypocrisy of carrying a staff and knapsack, and I did my steam pilgrimage without these deceptions, I think I leave Mark far in the rear in respect to disingenuousness.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The past winter I conceived the idea of placing my writings in a more durable shape than that derived from scrap-books <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>There was a physiological law contemporaneous with my school days, that the human system was changed once in seven years; that all that was there on the first year was expelled through natural causes by the seventh and replaced with new material.  If this is in being yet and has not been relegated into mythical nothingness by new and iconoclastic school-books, along with the accounts of the "Maelstrom" and Sea Serpent, and the story of Pocahontas and John Smith, which were established facts as far as descriptive text and wood cuts could make them, I am more than four removes from the young traveler and ranchero of thirty years ago.  Therefore should anything be found in the book which makes a favorable impression credit it to his mature successor or evolvent, who is palpable and capable of feeling praise or blame.  The other party is away in the shadowy realms of the past, and unsensitive to both.  In fact, so disassociated is he from myself, that I can give his portrait, as well as full-length representations of him in connection with other illustrations, with no more feeling of egotism than if I were showing off the features of one of his fellow cowboys of the plains.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Who reads this volume with the impression that it is full of wild hunting adventures and narrations of murders and robberies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>As for the "Later Footprints" following "A California Tramp," I will only say that among the prose sketches the article on John Burns should be worth attention as far as it furnishes facts proving the old man was a real militant in the Battle of Gettysburg; and as to those in rhyme, simply state that some of them had the questionable fame of newspaper republication.</P>
005.sgm:<P>When an author apologizes for literary defects, and airs the difficulties he has labored under, it is generally assumed that he could have done no better under favorable circumstances, and by implication is assured that if the work was so burdensome the reading public would have excused him from its performance.  Nevertheless, I will say that the preparation of this volume was made before and after business hours since the preceding winter, and when it is understood what a disadvantage this disconnected procedure has when compared with continuous work, I hope the literary imperfections involved will be overlooked.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>The illustrations, while not up to the high art standard, picture scenery and incidents of which I was a part sufficiently well.  The most of them are from original sketches redrawn and made available through wood and photo-engraving.  In a work of so limited a circulation they involved an outlay hardly warranted, except by my desire to represent and perpetuate what has been heretofore unillustrated and now nonexistent save in memory.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I have now accomplished what until lately I never seriously thought of doing--written a book.  This act is what Job wanted his enemy to do; either because he would lose money or be criticized beyond the punishment of personal boils.  But hoping that the miseries of authorship only existed in the imagination of that synonym of Patience, and that the perusal of this work will add a mite to the pleasures of my readers, I remain</P>
005.sgm:<P>Their friend,</P>
005.sgm:<P>THE AUTHOR.</P>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Newtown, Pa</HI>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Contents</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>I.<HSEP>Preliminary<HSEP>9<LB>II.<HSEP>To the Land of the Buffalo<HSEP>20<LB>III.<HSEP>A Day on the Plains<HSEP>31<LB>IV.<HSEP>Along the Platte to Fort Laramie<HSEP>49<LB>V.<HSEP>To the Great South Pass<HSEP>69<LB>VI.<HSEP>Among the Mountains<HSEP>86<LB>VII.<HSEP>In the Valley of the Shadow<HSEP>95<LB>VIII.<HSEP>The Saints' Best<HSEP>104<LB>IX.<HSEP>Among the Mormon Settlements<HSEP>120<LB>X.<HSEP>Along the Desert Border<HSEP>139<LB>XI.<HSEP>On the Great Sandy Desert<HSEP>153<LB>XII.<HSEP>From the Kingston Springs to San Bernardino<HSEP>171<LB>XIII.<HSEP>To Pueblo De Los Angeles<HSEP>184<LB>XIV.<HSEP>From Los Angeles to San Francisco<HSEP>197<LB>XV.<HSEP>On the Tramp<HSEP>210<LB>XVI.<HSEP>Ranch Life<HSEP>231<LB>XVII.<HSEP>In and Around San Francisco<HSEP>252<LB>XVIII.<HSEP>A San Franciscan Day<HSEP>264<LB>XIX.<HSEP>The Bit Theatre<HSEP>271<LB>XX.<HSEP>Homeward Bound-Southward<HSEP>278<LB>XXI.<HSEP>Homeward Bound--Northward<HSEP>291<LB>XXII.<HSEP>In New York<HSEP>300<LB>XXIII.<HSEP>Conclusion<HSEP>310<LB>SKETCHES IN PROSE.<LB>Robert Kenderdine<HSEP>317<LB>John Burns of Gettysburg<HSEP>336<LB>The Village Store<HSEP>348<LB>My Tramp<HSEP>364<LB>Company Trials<HSEP>374<LB>SKETCHES IN RHYME.<LB>In the Shadow of Round Top<HSEP>378<LB>John Burns Again<HSEP>384<LB>Jennie Wade<HSEP>397<LB>The Old Grist-Mill<HSEP>398<LB>Lyric of the Cuttalossa<HSEP>401<LB>Dickens<HSEP>407<LB>The Old Saw-Mill<HSEP>411<LB>Alter-thoughts<HSEP>414</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>Illustrations.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>Frontispiece--Up the Valley of the Platte.<LB>A Plain Sketch--Title page.<LB>Portrait<HSEP>8<LB>A Country Call in Kansas in 1858<HSEP>14<LB>Making our Mark<HSEP>17<LB>The Corral<HSEP>32<LB>The Lead Team<HSEP>37<LB>The S Straightens to an Z<HSEP>39<LB>The Sleeping Herd<HSEP>51<LB>Fording the South Platte<HSEP>59<LB>Chimney Rock<HSEP>65<LB>The Devil's Gate<HSEP>80<LB>Down Provo Ca&ntilde;on<HSEP>92<LB>Through the Streets of Lehi<HSEP>98<LB>Main Street, Salt Lake City<HSEP>106<LB>The Tabernacle<HSEP>108<LB>Great Salt Lake in the Twilight<HSEP>118<LB>Approach to the Valley of the Rio Virgin<HSEP>148<LB>The Ruins of Las Vegas<HSEP>163<LB>Our Camp at Kingston Springs--Bently and his Dog<HSEP>171<LB>Marching to the Sea<HSEP>185<LB>Field of Cacti<HSEP>194<LB>The Wine Team<HSEP>201<LB>San Pedro in 1858<HSEP>204<LB>Entrance to the Golden Gate<HSEP>205<LB>Oakland in 1858-Contra Costa Mountains in the Distance<HSEP>215<LB>Largest Ferryboat in the World, Plying between San Francisco and Oakland,<HSEP>216<LB>Looking at Monte del Diablo<HSEP>220<LB>Straits of Carquinaz<HSEP>222<LB>"Scottie" and I<HSEP>225<LB>Bird's Eye View of San Francisco--Golden Gate in the Distance<HSEP>249<LB>San Francisco Bay in the Good Old Time<HSEP>253<LB>How they Built the Ships in<HSEP>255<LB>The Old Mission Dolores<HSEP>257<LB>Mission Dolores as it is now<HSEP>259<LB>The Plaza, San Francisco<HSEP>265<LB>San Francisco in 1847<HSEP>272<LB>Robert Kenderdine.  Portrait<HSEP>316<LB>Charles Dickens.  Portrait<HSEP>407</P>
005.sgm:<BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>I. Preliminary</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>THE reading of Fremont's Narrative and other works of Western adventure gave me, during the last two or three years of my minority, a great desire to travel over the trans-Mississippi plains and mountains.  The departure of a friend and schoolmate for Oregon, on a surveying expedition, still further unsettled me, and showed my prosaic home life in yet more unfavorable contrast with the possibilities which Western travel would furnish; and when, in the spring of 1858, I secured a situation in the interior of Michigan, I concluded I had made one step in the coveted direction, and was partially satisfied.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I never shall forget the night when, having bid farewell to the home circle, I left Philadelphia for the West.  The hour was eleven of the clock; darkness all around and the weather stormy; and not knowing a soul on board, or in my prospective home, I sank into a fit of the blues, not of the "deeply, beautifully" sort, but rather, from the sensations I felt, as if tinged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Around curves, by heavy grades and through gloomy tunnels, and the Alleghenies were passed; and at two o'clock in the afternoon the smoke-plumed chimneys of Pittsburgh came in sight.  The coming night was passed on a Lake Erie steamer, and the next afternoon found me at my destination.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The party who employed me turned out to be a visionary--a "crank" he would be termed now.  The large tract of land he was on he was simply superintendent of, instead of owner, and the business I was to have charge of was simply his mental tenant, without prospect of the remotest materialization.  So in course of a month I discharged my employer; and with ten dollars and a pair of boots I had earned, I re-obeyed Greeley's as yet unspoken command to "Go West, young man"--an order, it will be noticed, I obeyed in installments.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I stopped one day in Chicago, then on jack-screws and working <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Money being the root of all evil, I felt myself as harmless as Mary's little lamb when preparing to leave what, from a severe strain on the imagination, was called the "Garden City."  I was compelled to buy a second-class ticket to Kansas, where destiny and inclination seemed to call me.  My departure was in an emigrant car at midnight; my only companions two drunken bandits, armed with guns.  The car was dark, and I always hailed the conductor's advent with his lantern, from my place in an unobtrusive corner, with silent Orisons.  In St. Louis I only stopped long enough to note how similarly the streets were named to those of Philadelphia I left there at ten o'clock on June 2d, and passing over a country of alternate prairie land and wooded streams, reached Jefferson City late at night, where I boarded the "Polar Star" steamer; the Western railroad system then not reaching beyond that town.</P>
005.sgm:<P>At that time the only railroads reaching beyond the Mississippi were the Missouri Pacific and the Hannibal and St. Jo.  The latter had not reached the Missouri, so part of the road was made by stage, and consequently was the least popular way to Kansas, as by the former route the whole journey could be made by boat and rail; a great favor in the days of border ruffianism, when Free State emigration by private conveyance was often checked or turned back by pro-slavery highwaymen.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Four days I endured the discomforts of deck passage, many and many a time wishing myself an Astor or Girard that I might climb out of it to the beatitude of the cabin above, where amid high living and luxurious surroundings the first-class <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>I had come these hundreds of miles to hunt work, but with dull times and no friends to help me, I was sore beset to find anything to do.  I tried around the city, then a place of from one to two thousand people, but I did not seem necessary to the growth of the town any more than I was to that of Chicago. At that time there was one business open to young men of easy conscience, and that was to go out in the country, take up claims, make affidavits that they pre-empted them for their own exclusive use, and then Sell out for a stated sum to their employer.  The law required that a habitation twelve by twelve must be built thereon before the claim could be held.  This was accomplished by the erection of a Lilliputian residence of twelve inches square, or by a simple rail pen of the required dimensions in feet.  A young Kentuckian, similarly situated financially as myself, and I walked a long distance out of town one day to see a real estate agent who gave men this questionable employment.  On this journey I learned how they made country calls in Kansas thirty years ago, of which I give an illustration drawn from life.  We did not go up to the door and ring the bell for two reasons: there was no bell to ring, and we were afraid of the dogs.  We just stood out in the road and shouted "Hello!"  If no response were made we would scream, "Call your dogs off," this soon becoming a necessity if the party called on had any politeness, they would rush out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:with clubs or boot-toes and extricate us, otherwise they would give the dogs aid with their guns in helping the intruders off.  This seemed like queer doing to me, but they were natural to my comrade from the "dark and bloody ground," and under his tuition I soon grew familiar with them.  We at last found the agent we were after, but on learning there was more or less of perjury connected with the business, although we were assured <illus entity="a005-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A COUNTY CALL IN KANSAS IN 1858.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Hearing there were ox-drivers wanted at Kansas City, to take a train to Santa F&eacute;, a place I had a desire to visit, I lugged my trunk down to the steamboat wharf, for I was always my own porter, and when the next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Concluding to return to Leavenworth and again try my luck there, I passed the coming night waiting for an up steamer.  A dismal wait it was; till midnight in a foul smelling saloon, and after that was closed, on the dark levee, by the side of the rushing river.  Towards morning a boat came along, and on it I returned to the above town.  Here I again hired as an ox-driver, trying to look as rough and unkempt as I could, that I might seem worthy the vocation.  My destination was Salt Lake.  This time I was careful to ask no questions, though I shrank from the rough life before me.</P>
005.sgm:<P>One thing that reconciled me to engaging in this journey <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Some of the particulars of my campaign life I will tell in a chapter entitled "A Day on the Plains."  For a few days we were engaged in loading the huge wagons and branding cattle.  The mark was an ox-yoke burned in front of the right hip.  This was the private brand of Russel, Majors and Waddell, the most extensive freighters who ever crossed the plains, with whom I had hired.  We branded five hundred in one day.  The groans of the struggling oxen and the smell of their burning flesh sickened me, but the fear of another rebuff made me hide my emotion and feign that just such work was what I was suffering for.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The few days we were waiting to start on our journey I lived at a place called the "Outfit."  Our sleeping quarters were full of vermin, but these were less disgusting than a portion of my human associates, many of whom were merely waiting for the time for their clothing to be dealt out to them, when they would run off.  Some of them were jailbirds and other desperadoes, and petty thieving was common.  In their talk they were the vilest of the vile, yet on account of a few semi-respectable fellows among them, I concluded to not back down, but to follow out my resolve to go to Utah, to which place we were to take supplies for the army sent to subdue the Mormons, then in rebellion.  The soldiers around the Fort made it a lively place, but their numbers were so small compared with the million or more who sprung to arms four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MAKING OUR MARK.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Before we started each man was given a whip, with a lash ten feet long.  These were but toys to what supplanted them when they wore out.  With a sort of poetic injustice, from the skins of cattle which died of hardship, lashes were cut and plaited five or six yards long, to facilitate the turning of the hides of other oxen into whip material.  These scourges were from an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half in thickness at the "swell," one-fourth the way from the stock, from which they tapered each way, with a buckskin "cracker," and in the hands of an expert they did murderous work.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Each train had a box of medicines which was kept in the train-master's wagon, along with the revolvers and ammunition, which was its proper place.  If I remember rightly, the basic matter of the contents was composed of calomel, laudanum and Epsom salts, with a few outlying adjuncts for doing their work.  These, in the hands of an ignorant practitioner, were capable of much mischief.  I think the quack who had his medicines numbered to suit the ills inherent to flesh, and when he was out of the required number 6, gave numbers 2 and 4 as an equivalent and promptly killed his man, was a wagon-master.  I knew I fought as shy of that chest as a fox would of a box-trap.  When a little out of sorts or low-spirited, the old professionals would make things worse by telling what became of the teamsters when they died, that is, in this world; for it is pretty easy to tell where most of the "bull-whackers" went, unless orthodox theology is at fault.  These Job's comforters told how the translated unfortunates were buried in scant roadside graves, in boxes made from the sideboards of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II. To the Band of the Buffalo</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>We at last got under way, but on account of unbroken teams, ignorant drivers and desertions, it was several days before we got in working order.  Sometimes the whole night guard, with their outfits,would decamp in a body, leaving the cattle to wander over the country.  The deserters were replaced by better men obtained from returning trains, with which we sent back our sick.</P>
005.sgm:<P>After some days of tribulation we crossed the valleys of the Big and Little Grasshopper, and reached Walnut Creek on the 8th of July.  Here we saw our first deer, which our wagonmaster gave chase to on his mule, but with limited success.  On the night of the 17th, when one hundred and twenty miles on the road, we had the most terrible thunder-storm I ever saw.  I was out all night herding the cattle, and the glare of lightning and crash of thunder rendered them hard to manage.  They hardly lay down all night, but wandered fitfully about, which made it hard for us.  However, the sun rose bright and warm the next morning, when we  could hardly realize what a night we had passed.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our next night's camp was by the side of the new-made grave of a teamster, who had been run over by a stampede of oxen.  A mound marked the spot on our arrival, but by morning the herd had so trampled down the wet earth that no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>On the 20th we came to Marysville, on the Big Blue.  Here was a mission and reservation of the Otto Indians.  While descending the bluff one of our oxen died; but the noble red men, when apprised, soon had him skinned, cut up and carried to their village.  These Indians shaved their heads and were otherwise as near naked as they could well be.  Still, the weather was warm.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The valley of the Big Blue was swarming with mosquitoes, and that night while herding cattle we were badly pestered with them.  They bit through our clothing and sang merrily at their work.  We wrapped ourselves from head to heels in our blankets to fence them off, though the air was oppressively sultry, but in spite of that they bit us so we were covered with a rash the next morning.  To their shrill tenor a band of wolves on the adjacent bluffs howled a blood-curdling baritone.  The howl of one wolf is enough, but when a band of this species get down to their work, it is more than that.  They commence with a shrill whine, which increases and deepens until it ends in an unearthly yell which you feel in your bones.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We crossed the Blue on a rope ferry, swimming all the oxen except what we wanted to pull the wagons on to the boat.  My friend Finlay and I were sent to herd cattle on the other side of the river, where we were kept till night with nothing to eat. When we were relieved, we had to swim the river to our wagons which were not ferried over.  The river was swollen, so that we landed far below in the darkness.  The next morning we found our shoes stolen as well as some of our clothing, which we had left on the other side.</P>
005.sgm:<P>After crossing the rest of the wagons, the guards were rearranged, and our rifles and a few rounds of ammunition given us, as we were getting among hostile Indians.  There were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>We reached the valley of the Little Blue on the 26th of June.  This was full of mosquitoes, and at night noisy with wolves.  While herding that night, a wolf crossed a knoll within twenty yards of where I was lying down, looking in silhouette against the clear sky to my excited fancy as large as a horse.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our route lay the next day along the valley of the Little Blue in the direction of the Platte River.  The road was miry and lined with the carcasses of dead oxen lost by preceding trains, which filled the air with sickening odors.  We afterwards left the valley and crossed high ground, from which we had a fine view of the lower country to the south.  Broad vistas of verdure, traversed by belts of darker green, marked the timber-lined streams.  The main trunk was the Blue, and from this extended short branches.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The 1st of August found us among a range of sand hills which announced our approach to the valley of the Platte.  These were a Succession of knolls and ridges from thirty to sixty feet high.  Amid their defiles our wheels sunk deep in the sand, and we frequently doubled teams in order to get through.  From these we came to the broad, level bottom of the river, which was marked by numerous wooded islands.  In the distance we saw Fort Kearney, the low buildings of which were just visible above the prairie.  When within a mile the train was stopped, and orders given for each man to overhaul his load, and put the flour which was in any way <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Fort Kearney is about one hundred and sixty miles from the Missouri.  It was established during the Mexican war, the intention being to connect the frontiers with the Pacific by a chain of military posts along the Platte and Columbia rivers.  The buildings consisted of barracks, hospital, sutler store and cavalry stables.  Some were of logs, others of frame, but the majority were of dried mud and roofed with sods.  It was not a very prepossessing place, but after a journey of three hundred miles through a wilderness, we welcomed the sight, as we also did the sound of the bugle that night, and the roll of drum and the shriek of fife the next morning from the musicians of the little garrison.</P>
005.sgm:<P>At Kearney Finlay left me.  Since the train started he had been as sick of his profession as the traditional dog of the proverbial broth.  He could see no romance in "hollering" at and beating oxen all day and herding them on alternate nights, and was disgusted with his associates.  Much as he disliked to leave me, he was determined to quit the train in Some way.  One dark and stormy night, when on guard near the sand hills, he came to camp and, awakening me, tried to persuade me to desert with him and make our way through three hundred miles of wilderness to the Missouri by the route we came.  I did not start out with the intention of turning back, and prevailed on him to desist from his intention.  He was afterwards taken sick, and went back with the next return train.  He cried when we parted, and I felt badly enough, for he was my wagon mate and the only congenial comrade I had in all that unkempt gang of ox-drivers.  I never heard of Finlay afterwards.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We left Fort Kearney the morning after our arrival, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>We camped six miles west of the Fort.  The next morning we broke corral early, as our wagon-master was anxious to make up for lost time.  I never saw birds in freedom as tame as here.  They would alight near us as we passed along, and it was sport for the skilled "Pikers" to "pop" them with their whips--the "crackers" being as fatal as bullets.  But we were soon to see larger game than birds.  About 9 o'clock, while leisurely trudging along, we were startled by a shout which ran from head to rear of the train: "A buffalo! A buffalo !"  In the direction indicated, we saw a dark, moving object, a mile off.  The wagon-master and his assistant immediately started in pursuit; while we, taking matters in our own hands, stopped the train to enjoy the chase, trusting that the outcome would be a change from our scurvy-producing bacon to buffalo steak.  Mounted on little mules, armed with rifles, revolvers and knives, with their heels, which nearly dragged the ground, bristling with huge rattling spurs, our heroes looked like Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, starting out on one of their windmill storming expeditions.  The buffalo took the alarm when they were in rifle-shot, and galloped toward the sand hills as fast as his clumsy legs would carry him, closely followed by his pursuers.  These fired several shots after him, but he only ran the faster; and, kicking up a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>An hour before sunset we saw scattered bands of buffaloes to our left, near the sand hills, and willing that we should have Some sport, the wagon-master allowed us to halt earlier than common.  About a dozen of us shouldered our rifles and with a few rounds of fixed ammunition started on our buffalo hunt.  As we neared the bellowing and already excited bands, we parted, each man taking a different route.  I picked out a big bull, as a foeman worthy of my gun, and started after him, but he led me a weary race, and before I had a chance to draw on him, we were in the midst of the sand hills.  He was a cunning old fellow, and all the time, by adroit management, kept at a respectful distance:  I, at last, got within rifle-shot and fired, but the report only frightened him, and lie galloped away and was soon lost to view.  Although it was now after sunset, and I was a long distance from camp, I was not yet satisfied with the results of the expedition, and ramming home another cartridge, I started after fresh game.  Moving on a short distance among the sand hills, I came across a herd of bulls sociably grazing together.  Always on the watch for human intruders, as these animals are, they started off in a body upon Seeing me, but resting my rifle scientifically on my knee, I took aim and fired.  <HI REND="italics">That</HI>
005.sgm: shot told, for while the remainder of the herd dashed madly forward, scared by the report, my buffalo stopped; but, alas! for my skill as a marksman, he did not drop as I wished him to, either because the ball did not enter a vital part, or because he had scruples about giving up the ghost in my presence just then.  I fired again and wounded him, but he made no acknowledgment, except to move on a few steps, while I reloaded my rifle.  Again and again did the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I admit that I was badly frightened while in that labyrinth of sand hills, not knowing where camp was, and invisible monsters bellowing all around me.  My companions, who had long since got in camp, knew the import of my rifle-shot and, similarly answering it, built a fire for my guidance.</P>
005.sgm:<P>One of our men, who was an old hunter, had shot a buffalo out towards the sand hills, and asked me to go with him to get some fresh beef for supper.  As dark as it was, through a sort of instinct, he led the way straight to where the animal lay.  He was So heavy, we could hardly roll him over.  Carving a choice cut from his flesh, we lugged it to the camp, much to the delight of the thirty men who had lived on salt pork long enough to get the scurvy.  Still we soon got tired of buffalo meat, as it was tough and had a strong musky odor, and some of the men were made sick by the change.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The road was lined with bands of buffaloes, and the whole plain between the river and sand hills was fairly black with them.  We saw them not by hundreds or thousands, but by hundreds of acres.  The main body was about a quarter of a mile from us, the column near a mile in width, and extending parallel with the river as far either way as the eye could reach.  Several were grazing near the road and some came close to our wagons, heedless of danger, and were constant targets for our rifles.  I shot one within ten yards of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>To show how near the outlying members of the large herd of buffaloes which darkened the plain on the east, came to our camp, I will mention that a half-grown specimen jumped over one of our wagon tongues, on its road to water.  Its temerity was rewarded with a fatal shot.  The bellowing of the main body made the air tremble and frightened our cattle, while a musky odor filled the air.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The hunting of these animals seemed so much like gunning for cows in a barnyard, that I only mention my experience to show how near I became lost while engaged in that misnamed sport.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Buffaloes resemble hogs in liking to wallow in mud and water.  With the river in sight, when thirsty we had to drink from the little ponds where they had been disporting, though from its musky odor it was almost unbearable.  Still it was better than the alkali water we drank further on.</P>
005.sgm:<P>With the plain full of buffaloes on one side, and the island filled Platte on the other, we wearily traveled on under an August sun.  It was pitiful to see the suffering of the oxen, as with tongues lolling out and eyes turned appealingly to the brutish driver, they slowly moved along.  Sometimes they were lashed, beaten and overworked until they fell dead in their tracks.  In fifteen miles from our morning's camp we stopped for the night, to the great joy of man and beast.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I was captain of guard No. 4.  This meant that I had the most of the work to do and got the blame for what was undone. It was nice to write home that I was a "captain," even if it was over a scurvy crew of four.  It did to accompany the other fiction that our employers would hire no one who swore or drank. To be sure, the men were clear of drinking--when they could get none. It pleased me to hear how particular our bosses were, and I so wrote; but I never told my parents that my comrades, with few exceptions, swore like pirates and stole what little there was to steal.  At first they stole the best oxen from the weaker drivers, when they found their merits and before each one well knew his cattle; then they would steal pipes and tobacco, tinware and bow-keys, as well as the wood, got with so much labor in readiness for cooking breakfast. They were a nice set, take them all around; but there were three or four, I hope the reader will believe, who did not train with the crowd.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I was routed out by the captain of" No. 3," suppositiously at midnight, although we were sometimes defrauded of our sleep by being prematurely awakened.  I would be acquainted with the condition of the herd, when I would awaken the rest of my men and start forth to relieve the old guard.  Our predecessors had had a hard night of it to keep the cattle from being incorporated with the buffaloes which were surrounding them. The shaggy brutes were on their way to water from their grazing grounds, and were making the air tremble with their terrible roaring.  In the darkness we could not tell one beast from another, and we were often in danger of being run over by the buffaloes which seemed to be trying to stampede our herd.  It was claimed that they purposely did that.  One of our men, "Dutch Bill," said that while on a return trip from Laramie, in 1857, his train was overtaken by a snow-storm near the junction of the North and South Platte.  The oxen were turned out to graze, but the grass was so covered with snow that they half perished by starvation and cold.  One day, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Of course we could not divert the course of the buffaloes, the best we could do was to keep our cattle away from them. The continued muttering of the former kept the latter restless, and we were kept busy until morning in preventing the oxen from wandering away.  We could hear through the darkness the buffaloes as they jumped down the bank into the river, or their bellowing as they scrambled back.  We were glad when the sun rose, when driving our cattle to the corral, we were ready for another weary drive.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Wherever there are buffaloes there are Indians. Hitherto we had only seen the tame variety hanging around the trading posts, some naked from their shaved heads to their bare feet, with the exception of a tribute to modesty in the shape of an apron, a world too scant.  In the forenoon we were favored with a sight of the unadulterated article, untainted with civilization, mounted on horses and brave with paint, feathers and silver ornaments.  They seemed friendly and shouted the customary salutation of "How! How!" at us.  Not to be behind in courtesy we also said "How!" Their chief wants here below were whisky and tobacco, in which they showed a great resemblance to the noble white man.  They traveled with us awhile and then galloped away.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III. A Day on the Plains</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>A LEVEL valley, miles in width; a broad river, full of wooded islands, and shallows, and rippling currents; in the far distance low ranges of interminable hills; a circle of white covered wagons, with the embers of campfires dimly glowing in their midst.  This is the scene, but the central object, our camp, only is visible, for the light of morning has not yet come.</P>
005.sgm:<P>It is the dawn of a warm summer's day.  Between the hard bed, the heat and musquitoes, a restless night has been passed, tired and needful of repose as you have been; but as daylight approaches, a deep sleep comes over you. Suddenly you hear a thumping on the side of the sheeted wagon, accompanied with cries of "Roll out! Roll out!" and words unmentionable added thereto.  This is the reveille of the plains, and the performer is the assistant wagon-master of the train; the musical instruments are his lungs and a detached ox-bow.  The sounds travel around the circle of wagons until not a driver is slighted. Drowsily you roll on your bed of hard bags of flour and try to think you imagine the sounds and can sleep longer, but no, they are reality.</P>
005.sgm:<P>A rushing sound is heard.  It is the tread of our herd of over three hundred oxen, just being driven from their night's grazing grounds.  There are the blowing of breaths, the clatter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CORRAL.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The last of the straggling herd is now in, and the voice of the wagon-master, hoarse from yesterday's shouting at men and oxen, yells "Yoke up!"  Then comes a scene of noise and confusion of from ten to thirty minutes, according to the alacrity of the men.</P>
005.sgm:<P>In our train there are a wagon-master, an assistant, two extras, to help in different places, or take the place of sick or injured, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>When stopping, the train is placed in two semi-circles, one on either side of the road, as a protection against Indians and to form a corral to hold the oxen while yoking them up. The wagons are narrow tired, weigh eighteen hundred pounds, and carry fifty-four hundred.  They are covered with double sheets and provided with chain-locks.  The cook's wagon has a mess-box on behind to carry our Dutch oven, skillet and tin plates, and remnant of meals. A half-barrel for water is hung on the end of the guide pole.  In the oven is baked saleratus-raised bread, that comes out of it as yellow as sponge cake and unfit to eat.  In the skillet our bacon is fried, and in the surplus fat dough is boiled and christened "fat cakes."  Our fuel, if we are fortunate enough to camp by timber, is the dryest branches we can find, but in certain districts we used "buffalo chips."  This last was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Our train was No. 54; how many followed I do not know. They, as well as hundreds of others, were owned by Russel, Majors and Waddell, government contractors, a part of which firm embezzled hundreds of thousands of dollars of Indian trust funds at the outbreak of the civil war.  We were carrying army supplies to Salt.Lake for the soldiers sent out under Albert Sydney Johnston (who was killed at Shiloh) for the suppression of the Mormon Rebellion.  Twenty cents per pound was the rate of freight, though when we got out there the troubles were over, and the Government bought all the flour wanted for $5.00 per hundred.  Our train, when in close order, was a half mile long, but it often reached from one to three miles.  On our way we overtook a train whose. men had mutinied against the wagon-master, and this afterwards traveled with us, making our train twice the above length.  The wagon-masters and extras rode horses, the drivers all walked, as it was impossible otherwise to keep the oxen to their work.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The cattle, on account of the immense demand, were mainly unbroken.  We aimed to get two good Missouri oxen for wheelers and leaders, size being required for the former and intelligence for the latter.  The next grade were the " pointers," which were hooked next the tongue.  Between these and the leaders were the "swing," composed of the "scallawags"--the weak, lazy and unbroken.  To show how few stood the twelve hundred miles journey, I will state that but two of my twelve got through, the rest having died or given out from time to time. They were replaced by others from returning trains, or by the best in what we called our "calf yard," or loose cattle. This was a corruption of the Spanish word <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
005.sgm:, although the "Pikers" did not know it, and, in fact, did not bother themselves about its origin, as "calf yard" seemed the natural term <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The wagons, on account of unseasoned timber being used in their make, were a source of much trouble.  Only four of our twenty-six went through.  Sometimes we would have to take the wheels off at our noon rests and soak them in the river. Those with wooden axles ran easier than those of iron. Many of the wagons. were made East and sent to Kansas by New Orleans.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I left our men some time back yoking up.  At the command each man starts with a rush for his "off-wheeler." To pick him out of a herd of over three hundred excited oxen is a difficult job.  They must be yoked <HI REND="italics">seriatim</HI>
005.sgm:, so that no matter how many of the other eleven you see, you must get that particular one.  Tearing through the Surging mass, for you are sometimes on a race, the "off ox" at last is found, one end of the yoke attached, with more or less trouble, and he is pulled and driven to the rear of your wagon which, like all the rest, is towards the centre of the corral.  Then you run around among the herd after the "nigh-wheeler," which after much tribulation is found and driven up and yoked to his mate. These are then taken outside and put to the tongue.  The next to find are the leaders, which, when yoked, are chained to the wheels, when the rest are brought up in order and the five yokes chained together, every ox and yoke in its regular place.  The men first mark their oxen that they may know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Each man furnished himself from the "outfit" house with woolen blankets, clothing and, if he could afford it, a gum blanket or overcoat.  The company furnished him with a rifle, revolver and ammunition, which were not given out until we arrived among hostile Indians.  I am thankful to add that we never had an excuse to use these for the purpose intended, although a party of hostiles alarmed us one night by coming within a few hundred yards of us and giving same defiant war-whoops.  It was so dark we could not see them, and in the morning there was no trace of them, and I was mighty glad of it.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We are now ready to start.  Each driver with a cruel whip stands by the side of his wheelers, while the wagon-master and "extras," mounted on mules or horses, revolver at belt and clattering spur at heel, are grouped by the leading wagon. The command of "Roll on" is given, and one after the other the wagons start out and the train is in motion, crawling like a Saurian monster over the prairie.  What a half hour ago was a white circle, as silent as death, is now resonant with shouts and oaths and, uncoiled, is leaving its resting place far behind.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The best teams in the train were the first and fourteenth, which alternated in leading.  Being picked cattle and having no heavier loads to haul than the poor ones, they generally made a good appearance, so that our line of march was always best foot foremost.</P>
005.sgm:<P>When in a timber country the breaking of an axle or tongue did not much disconcert us, as we could replace them.  But when we got out of the hard-wood region along the Platte, it was different.  Then we would abandon the broken wagon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE LEAD TEAM.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>In the journey to Salt Lake we averaged about eight miles a day, which would have been more had we not lost much time by desertions and bad roads at the start.  The drivers, on account of so much moving back and forth to keep the lazy oxen up to their work, traveled half as much farther.  The free cattle were soon broken down and left dead on the road, or to recuperate in the "calf yard," so that many left behind were lazy and cunning.  These would only work when the driver was at their sides, urging them with word and whip.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The oxen were badly used generally.  The poor beasts seemed to have a human sense of wrong, and I have seen their sorrowful eyes full of tears under abuse.  The old drivers were skilled in the use of their whips--some with lashes over five yards long--and took delight in marking the backs of their cattle; while others, who were not so accomplished, pounded and kicked them without mercy, and even more cruelly used them.  To call these semblances of humanity brutes, would be a libel on the four-footed race.  To make the exhausted oxen pull, some of these drivers would not stop short of breaking a tail, staving in a rib, or even gouging out an eye.  I grew sick at their heartless doings, but was powerless to avert them.  The thousands of carcasses of oxen which lined our trail showed how hard was their usage.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The road for awhile is good, and we are making two miles an hour.  On account of the miry places we keep away from the Platte, which, with its many islands, is plainly visible on one side, while on the other is a maze of sand hills.  At last we come to a "slough," or swampy creek, and here trouble begins.  The wheels sink to their hubs, the team stalls, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:then come lively times.  The caravan telegraph is then put in operation.  The driver of the luckless team shouts to the one ahead, "Hold on !" which in our train is equivalent to "down brakes."  These words are carried from mouth to mouth, until they reach the head wagon, where the wagon-master is always riding, looking for bad crossings and fixing plans for their remedy.  This functionary gallops back to the scene of disaster, while the train halts until further orders. He gets the "extras," who are experts with the whip, to lash <illus entity="a005-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE <HI REND="italics">S</HI>
005.sgm: STRAIGHTENS TO AN <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
005.sgm:the oxen, while strong arms are at the wheels.  The men yell, the oxen pull to their utmost, the whips crack like so many pistols, and the wagon creaks, but all in vain.  Another team is added and another effort made, but in vain.  Others are supplemented, until twenty yokes are floundering in the mud in their efforts to move one wagon, but they only sink it deeper.  Finally the last resort is made.  A part of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:the earth is spaded away front of the wheels, the wagon is partly unloaded, and the long, double file of oxen, almost exhausted by their previous efforts, is placed in the shape of the letter <HI REND="italics">S</HI>
005.sgm:.  The wagon must now come or the tongue pull out. Again the whips fly, the wheel men tug, the drivers shout, and the <HI REND="italics">S</HI>
005.sgm: straightens to an <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
005.sgm:<P>From the hardships we went through one would suppose that our noon halts would be wholly for rest, but such would not always be the case.  Quarrels would ensue on the drive, or when in difficulties, the lie would be given, or vile epithets used.  Then would follow threats of a "licking" at the noon corral.  At the latter verbal hostilities would be continued, when cries of "Fight it out!" would come from the unkempt crowd attracted to the spot. The disputants would be two mad Missourians, perhaps, big, dirty and long-haired.  Obeying the command, at it they would go like a brace of giants.  It was kick and strike--whether above or below the belt, no matter-and gouge and pull hair, until one or the other howled enough. These doings were so natural a sequence to our mode of life that no one was shocked at them, particularly as the contestants soon "made up."  Despite their brutishness there was a grotesqueness about the affair, which excites a smile even at this late day.  There seemed the necessity of a vent for the combative nature of these rugged fellows, and these fights furnished it.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The fight is over, our dinners finished, and the herds, their appetites satisfied also, driven in and yoked up; we are again on our way.  The roads, perhaps, are good, and the afternoon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The wood was generally green and a fire difficult to make To bake bread we needed live coals to put on our Dutch oven, when that was too much trouble, we would fry dough in the salty drippings of bacon--a scurvy dish.  Sometimes we would have flapjacks.  To turn these required a dexterous twist of the long-handled skillet, whereby the cake could be turned and landed right side up without touching it.  The acme of perfection in making this product was for the cook to throw up the "jack" and run around the wagon and catch it--the "jack"--as it came down. I never saw this done. The water was sometimes carried, or "packed," a quarter of a mile.  I did not know what to make of the word "pack" at first.  My initial job was to help brand cattle at Fort Leavenworth, where I was told to "pack"the red hot irons from the furnace to the "brander."  I thought I was to pack the irons <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>At last our rations are getting ready for the "table," the latter being, in a general way, the ground.  The camp kettle, filled with water for our coffee, is on the fire, which the cook is swearing at in a very unlady-like way, as, with sleeves rolled up to the elbow, the tenacious dough is kneaded and a general supervision extended over the cookery.  One of us, with a coffee mill between his knees, is powdering the fragrant Rio; another is frying with skill more or less artistic our scurvy producing bacon; and the third, whom all save the cook is continually enjoining to be saving of the fuel, is tending the stubborn fire, while the rest of the mess are taking alternate smokes from one pipe owned by the crowd.  At last the coffee is pronounced boiled, the bacon done brown and the cook has either a lot of saleratus bread, "fat cakes," or " flap-jacks" in readiness. Then he warbles" Grub pile," and we all get to work.  Seated like Turks with our table beneath us, and our motto "fingers were made before forks," we go to work, dipping our cups in the common kettle and shredding our meat with our teeth, and dispensing with the effeminacy of butter-knives for the reason that we have no butter. Supper over, pipes are relighted for a social smoke, and we try to enjoy ourselves, while we thank our stars we are not on guard, as we listen to the cries of the distant herders and pity the poor fellows from our comfortable situations, hardly thinking in a few hours we will be routed out to replace them.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Watches, whereby the herders might determine when to call the next guard, which came on at midnight, were a rarity in our train.  Mine was of the open-face variety and was full jeweled.  It was the northern sky and the hour hand was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Our cook was called "Black Bill."  He was not a negro, but a dark-featured Caucasian with full lips.  He detested the name, but it stuck to him.  His duties exempted him from night guard, but his office was a thankless one, for he had to scold the men to make them get wood and water, and was growled at for his cookery.  Once or twice he left his work, but his successors did so badly that we coaxed him back and used him better.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Once, after a hard night on guard, I concluded to take the cook's situation myself.  The growls of the mess and a haggardness which showed through the tan and dirt shrouding their faces soon, however, relegated me back to my proper place.</P>
005.sgm:<P>For awhile after supper we sit around the embers of our fire, some listlessly dozing, some thinking of the past or speculating on the future, others listening to the talk of more wide-awake comrades, not very edifying at the most.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Just now it is about the buffalo, and how many each one had shot, or what kind of oxen they would make, and whether the herd would stampede our cattle to-night, how they liked the meat, etc.  In general, the conversation ran on the day's doings, but sometimes tough yarns, embodying the experience of old teamsters, took up the time.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Let me say something about our motley crew.  I did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The wagon-master was William Taylor, who was not a bad sort of a fellow, being as good to his men as was practicable under the circumstances.  Cy. Conners, his assistant, was abusive and tyrannical until he had his bad points knocked out of him.  We found a fellow along the roadside one day, suffering with the chills.  He had been, according to his story, heartlessly left there by the wagon-master of a train just ahead, but the chances were he was a deserter.  We took charge of him, and he was soon able to work, but was the butt of the corral, and was abused by Conners in particular.  One day, after tyrannizing over this man whose name was Donnelly, the assistant gave him a term which he might as well have shortened and called him a dog.  It is claimed that a worm will turn when trod on, but Donnelly would do more than this, so he dared Conners to fistic combat in the arena, formed by our corral at noon.  The challenge was accepted, and at the time specified the affair came off.  It is no credit to our refinement, but we enjoyed the sport, especially when at the supreme moment the assistant, who could only fight in a sort of cat and dog style, went under from a scientific knock from Donnelly.  He was much larger than his adversary, but he had to "holler enough," when he was let up.  He was cowed down by the humble "bull-whacker's" beating, and had but little authority thereafter, in fact, so much so I pitied the fellow.  Donnelly was quite set up by the affair, and bullied around a little in his turn, until one day, on the principle that "fleas have other fleas to bite 'em," a little Irishman, called "U. S.," resented his doings by giving him a punishment he long remembered; for he bit him in the manner of a dog, and in other ways fought him until he was humiliated as much as was poor Conners.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Then there was "Phil "--last name never heard of--one of the "extras," whose highest ambition was to be a wagon-master some day.  He was a good ox-driver, and could release a "stuck"team with skill.  "Phil" called whip "hoop," and was a great hand to sit around the campfire of the <HI REND="italics">elite</HI>
005.sgm: mess, that is where the officials fed, and tell about his day's experience; how he made a certain team "get up and haul," and he would ask the wagon-master if he "minded" how a certain "off-wheeler" buckled down to it when he began to skin him with his "hoop," and the action of certain other cattle when under his leathern stimulant.  Then there was Johnson, a big, fine looking fellow, who was the wheelwright of the train, and "Kaintuck," and "Yank," a New Yorker.  I will also name "Missouri Bill" as about the greatest swearer I ever heard.  If I could imagined he read, I would class "Tristram Shandy" among his perusals, for his <HI REND="italics">maledictus sit</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Fisher had once lived among the Pottowattomies, where he had been, in a measure, adopted by the tribe.  He would often sit around the campfire and commence to narrate some of his experience of Indian life, but he was so lazy that his snoring voice, which was a soporific of itself, would cease in the middle of a story through sheer weariness of the vocal chords.  Still we would be so nearly put to sleep ourselves, that we would hardly notice the cessation.  There was another fellow, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:messmate of mine, I am sorry to say, named Bill Casey, who often told us how he had promised his little brother to bring him home an "Injun's skulp."  But no one's teeth chattered livelier than his one night when we were given ammunition for an expected attack from a party of Cheyennes.  There was "Irish John," with murder in his heart when angry, and an old Indian campaigner with General Harney; and "Dutch John," with a Russian face, a fearful temper and a flow of German oaths; and "Dutch Bill," yet a boy, but who had been on a winter-bound train the year before, when, with cattle frozen or stampeded, the time until spring was passed on the plains.  When in his German home, he lived on the borders of the Black Forest, and he sometimes entertained me with narrations of his adventures in that famed wilderness. Another, with the prefix "Dutch," was "Charley "-surname, as usual, unknown--who owned a claim in Kansas, but who joined us when we were short of men when passing his farm. In some of our troublous times, and we had plenty of them, he would doubly curse the day he joined us, and cry like a Banshee for the wife and baby he had left on the shore of the Big Blue.  He was a freethinker and argumentator, and when in the mood, he would make the air ring with his excited talk.  As he was barely understandable in his calm moments, he spoke no English when excited.  Then there was "Whisky Bill," so termed for his fondness for the adjective; there was Bentley, a deserter from the regulars, who hid or disguised himself when near a fort or when nearing a camp of soldiers.  Another was "Dutch Joe," formerly a Mississippi steamboatman, in which calling he had learned any amount of profanity and irreligion, and yet at night, around our campfires, he would unctiously sing pathetic songs, the stock specimen being, "When My Old Mother and I Did Part," which, full of good sentiment, got to be as wearisome a song as "The Child in the Grave With Its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The night is wearing on.  The men, tired with their day's toil and with listening to the evening talk, are one by one crawling into their wagons to get their needed sleep.  Our mess is on guard to-night and should have retired long since. We get into our blankets, and, for awhile kept awake by thoughts of the past or speculations on the future, we are in the mysterious land of dreams.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I have given a sample of our experience on the plains for a period of eighteen weeks, our hardships increasing as we advanced among the mountains and pasture became scarce. Then at nights we would have to drive the oxen across the river to graze, preceding trains having eaten up the pasture on the near side.  We would ride the oxen over,if practicable, while the horsemen urged them on, but we would have to spend the night in wet clothing.  How we kept our health through it all I cannot understand, but it did not materially suffer.</P>
005.sgm:<P>An incident we occasionally experienced, and which was a pleasing one, was the meeting of the mail stage, or being passed by the same on its western way.  The vehicle itself was a cumbrous affair, and was known by the "Pikers" as an "avalanche," which was as near as they could be expected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>And now the Kansas prairies, then virgin, over which we so slowly traveled, are covered with farms and villages.  The watchful house-dog replaces the howling wolf.  The bellowing buffalo, which darkened his pasturage, has made way for herds of  cattle, the marauding  Indian  for the useful farmer.  The children of the ignoble red men I saw, instead of practicing with their mimic bows and arrows on rabbits or prairie dogs, or shooting pennies from stakes for the amusement of flush  palefaces, are learning agriculture from Eastern farmers, and successfully, too.  Where the ox-train moved at the rate of ten or fifteen miles per day, trains of another kind travel six hundred. Where the emigrant plodded his weary way, thousands of excursionists annually flock to California.  Colorado, which we traversed a desert wilderness, is now a prosperous state, its seeming barrenness reclaimed by irrigation, and its repulsive mountains teeming with precious metals.  The city of Denver had not been located.</P>
005.sgm:<P>With all these changes I can hardly realize what a country I passed through thirty years ago.</P>
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005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV. Along  the Platte to Fort Laramie</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>UNTIL the 8th our course was through the buffalo country, but we were now beyond it, though a few outlying stragglers from the main herd might be seen. We encamped at night near the river, which was here a mile in width, and filled with sandy islands covered with a tangled growth of willow and cotton-wood. At midnight our watch was called out to relieve the other which had left the herd to take care of itself. Before we reached the pasturage we heard a noise which came to our ears ominously. It was the herd stampeding for the river.  Plunge!  Plunge! one after another we heard the oxen dropping into the water from the bank and making for the opposite shore.  Splash!  Splash! we could hear them, as we pulled off our boots and coats and ran after them.  In the water and quicksands, over sand-bars and through tangled islets we labored along, filling the air with yells in our efforts to arrest the progress of the oxen, which, under the guidance of a mischievous Texan, were determinedly moving on.  By great efforts we at last so gained on the column as to reach the head oxen, and these we switched on to the back track by severe clubbings. The main herd followed them, and we at last got the runaways back, and in our wet clothes guarded them until morning.  One would think that after a hard day's work the cattle would be glad to lie down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>But there were times when a halo of sentiment covered the surroundings.  This was in the small hours of the night, and when the oxen, tired and with their hunger satisfied, lay down in groups around us. The full moon which was high overhead showed the broad island-dotted Platte with its divided channels sparkling in its soft light. From the shore the plain broadened till it met the far-off hills, beyond which there was no trace of civilization, no animal life for hundreds of miles, but of Indians and wild beasts.  Dimly gleaming from the prairie was our corral, its circle of sheeted wagons showing like a patriarchal encampment of far away times.  The sounds we heard were hushed, the lowing of distant buffaloes, the howling of wolves, the barking of their coyote brethern, or the voices of predatory night birds, coming to us wierdly and faintly. Now and then came a deep sigh from one of the reclining herd, as he, perhaps, thought of the wrongs inflicted on him the previous day.  The surroundings induced meditation, and my thoughts would revert to my far-away home and the loved ones there; and I wondered how I ever came to lead such a life among people like my associates, whose ways were so uncongenial and generally repulsive.</P>
005.sgm:<P>My reclining position, the hushed, far-away sounds, the propinquity of so much sleep as was massed in the somnolent beasts about me, the influences of night, one or all, would make me drowsy in spite of the responsibility resting upon me, when I would instinctively arouse with a start to find the late quiescent herd in commotion, and stringing across the plain in the wake of some mischief making leader.  The rest of the night guard had been caught napping, and then would be trouble till dawn keeping the cattle together.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SLEEPING HERD</P>
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005.sgm:<P>The mile-wide river with its sand-bars, low shores and distant sand hills called to mind a picture I once saw of the river Nile, with the full moon gleaming above it. My unleashed fancy increased the resemblance. The lone cotton-woods were transformed to tufted palms from their positions on shore or island. I evolved the pyramids from the hazy outlines of distant sand hills; the sheeted wagons turned to an Arab encampment, the sleeping oxen to couchant camels, and for Bedouins of the desert I could choose between my comrades and the Indians encamped near by, and present about as Ishmaelitic a gang as the valley of Father Nile was ever afflicted with.</P>
005.sgm:<P>On the 6th of August we came to a timberless reach, and heavy rains having spoiled our " <HI REND="italics">bois-de-vache</HI>
005.sgm:<P>We reached Grant's Camp at noon on the 12th.  This is a fine camping place, near the bluffs, and about three miles from the river, and is supplied with a spring of excellent water gushing out from the bottom of a deep ravine.  Hardly had we coralled before a body of mounted Indians rode up, whom we found to be the braves of a Sioux village, now changing its locality, for looking back we saw stretching along the plain and advancing toward our camp a long moving column, which as it neared us, presented a rather grotesque appearance. There were about a hundred persons appertaining to this portable village.  The squaws were dragging their heavily laden <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>While we were encamped together at Grant's Camp I employed my leisure time in visiting our neighbors. The lodges, which are some twelve feet in height and ten in diameter, are formed by a number of poles meeting together at the top in the shape of a pyramid, over which is put a covering of buffalo hide; an aperture being left in the top for the purpose of the smoke escaping.  In warm weather the cover of the tent is raised to some distance from the ground, so that the air circulating through them makes them pleasant summer habitations.  On entering the lodges, which I did <HI REND="italics">sans ceremonie</HI>
005.sgm:, I found them filled with a heterogeneous mixture of squaws, children, papooses and dogs, seated or lying around, the former busily engaged in making moccasons, or in the tanning of skins. The mixed population hardly noticed me, except the dogs, which, from their hiding places into which they had retreated on my entrance, showed their ivory in a menacing manner.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>One of our wagons being broken down, we were obliged to repair it here.  After taking out the freight, part of which was composed of crackers destined for Laramie, we found the bottom of the body covered with crumbs, mixed with about an equal proportion of dirt.  Calling up the squaws and children, who came flocking around like so many hens and chickens, we commenced scattering this rather dubious manna over the ground.  Hardly had the mixture reached the earth ere it was surrounded by a group of" anxious seekers," who gobbled it up instanter, and then watched eagerly to see where the next supply would fall.  To see this agile pack of wretches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Before we left the camp we had the pleasure of seeing the Indians on a buffalo hunt.  While they were lounging around the corral after dinner, a squaw came running up from the village with the information that a buffalo was in sight.  The features of the Indians, which a moment before were stolid and vacant, were now full of the liveliest animation, and, springing from the ground, they rushed in a body to where their ponies were picketed; in an instant they were mounted and coursing over the plain in the direction of their victim, which was plainly visible a half a mile distant.  The latter soon took the alarm and made for the bluffs, but his pursuers, on their tough little animals, swiftly gained upon him, and in a short time came up with him, when discharging a volley of bullets and arrows at their noble game, he was soon rolling in the dust.  It was but a few minutes from the time the alarm was given until the buffalo was killed, and the hunters were on their way to camp, leaving the meat to be cut up and brought home by the Squaws.  The latter made their appearance at last, each with a heavy load on her back, and they were soon busily engaged in cutting up the flesh preparatory to drying it in the sun for future use.  The chase was quite an exciting one, and we watched it with intense interest ,,from first to last.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Leaving our Indian friends behind us, we moved on and encamped at sundown near the river, after a journey of twelve <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The Platte, below the junction, is a mile in width and averages a foot in depth.  Between the forks is a low prairie which extends about eighteen miles above the junction, when it reaches the bluffs, ascending to tile Broad plateau extending Between the two rivers farther on.  Descending from the bold Bluffs on which we wore encamped the preceding night, we again rolled over tile Platte Bottom, the road being bad from the deep and yielding sand.  Late in the afternoon of the 14th we reached the celebrated crossing of the south Platte.</P>
005.sgm:<P>At the ford the South Fork, or Padouca, is about a half mile in width, with numerous sand-bars rising above the surface of the water.  On account of the difficulty of crossing this stream, from its quicksand Bottom, and the heavy freshets which annually fill its Banks, this ford is a noted locality on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Grass being scarce around the ford, we were compelled to take the herd two miles up the valley, where we found tolerably good pasturage.  About the middle of the night the cattle made a stampede for the islands of the river, from which they were dislodged with much difficulty, some of them not being found until noon the next day.  The day consequently was far gone before we got under way.  We at length began the ascent of the toilsome steep leading to the broad plateau, extending between the valleys of the north and south forks of the Platte.  When near the summit we met a small band of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>We had expected to find water on the top of the divide, but after considerable search we found none, and pushing on we <illus entity="a005-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FORDING THE SOUTH PLATTE.</P>
005.sgm:at last came in sight of the bold, uneven bluffs overlooking the valley of the North Platte.  Following their rough outlines for about a mile, we came to a steep descent, leading down to the bottom of a deep valley, opening on to the river, some three miles distant.  This is known as "Ash Hollow "--a famous landmark on the California trail.  We reached the top of the sandy declivity a little after dark, and double rough-locking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Nothing could be more dreary than the region through which we passed.  The bottom of the valley down which we were journeying, and which was a bed of sand and gravel, was about one hundred yards in width, almost entirely destitute of vegetation and bounded on either side by gloomy, barren hills, which arose to the height of six or eight hundred feet, terminating in rugged cliffs.  It seemed as if some mighty volcano had once been at work here, blasting and desolating everything around in its upheavings.  Slowly our weak, hollow oxen drew the cumbrous wagons through the yielding sands, which arose and enveloped us in clouds, as we trudged on our way unrejoicing. At last we emerged from this valley of desolation, and moving about a mile up the river, we encamped near its shore.  A rush was soon made for the river by both man and beast, and its warm, yellow waters soon quenched the thirst of all.  Near the mouth of Ash Hollow we passed a mail station, near which was encamped a village of Cheyennes.  The little naked children crowded around us as we passed by the lodges, whilst the old squaws, squatted around their domiciles, gazed quietly at us through their black, snaky eyes, looking quite as attractive as the fabled dames who guard the portals of the infernal regions.  Near this spot a battle was fought a year before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The scenery along the Plattes begins to change above the Forks.  The broad, level bottoms stretching along the river as far as the eye can reach, are no longer seen, and the sandy bluffs often approach to the very edge of the water, rising in rough, uneven outlines to the height of near a thousand feet. Among the sharp rocks that cover their desolate sides a few scrubby cedars are growing, looking from the road like mere bushes, but several were a foot in diameter, as I found on clambering up for wood. We no longer see the richly timbered islands of the lower Platte, the sand-bars being merely fringed with willows and destitute of trees.</P>
005.sgm:<P>After procuring a supply of cedar-wood from the neighboring hills, we proceeded on our way over a road which was very heavy on account of the deep sand.  Our teams, weakened by hard driving and starvation, were continually stalling, so that the day had its usual amount of excitement to vary the monotony of the journey.  A train which had passed through our corral the preceding night and encamped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>(August 19th.)  Owing to a heavy rain which fell last night and hardened the sand, our road to-day was considerably better than yesterday, so that we made good progress.  While encamped at noon, a homeward bound train from Fort Laramie passed us, stopping long enough, however, to make an exchange of some wagons and oxen.  The next day, in the forenoon, we came in sight of the Court House Rock.  This natural curiosity is situated about nine miles south of the road, but owing to the dry and pure atmosphere of this region, it does not appear to be more than two or three.  It is apparently about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:three hundred yards long and two hundred in height.  It is composed of marl and earthy limestone, and is worn into its peculiar shape by the action of the elements on its soft constituents.  Standing alone above the broad plain, its outlines rendered singularly regular by distance, it has an extremely majestic appearance, having much the look of an ancient feudal castle, and the sight of it formed a pleasing variation to the monotony of our journey. Although the land between it and the road is apparently a dead level, it is very uneven, being full of deep gulches which have been washed into its marly soil by the rains of winter.  A Mormon told me that while passing this rock one of his party was filled with curiosity to examine it closely, and under the impression that it was but a short distance from the road, he mounted his horse and rode towards it, thinking to regain his comrades in a short time:  The plain seemed so level, and the Court House so near that he imagined he was going on a nice little journey of pleasure, but he soon found himself mistaken.  Deep ravines were continually obstructing his path, and worse than all, the object he was seeking seemed like the <HI REND="italics">ignus fatuus</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Throughout the 21st the road was bad, sometimes laying across the sandy bluffs which intersected our route, at others, over marshy flats which extended between them.  Owing to the severe labor they underwent, the cattle had begun to fail fast, for they were en <HI REND="italics">route</HI>
005.sgm: from early in the morning till late in the evening, over bad roads and under a hot sun.  One of our men narrowly escaped being shot in the afternoon.  A comrade with a loaded rifle in his hand was walking along by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Near here we passed an emigrant wagon, the cover of which had been removed and the bows festooned with strips of buffalo meat, which was in process of being dried or "jerked." This gets well covered with dust and as dry and hard as wood.  It is soaked and boiled before being eaten.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We nooned on the 23d by Chimney Rock, which is about forty miles west from the Court House and seventy from Ash Hollow.  This rock, or rather column, is set upon a semispherically shaped hill, and is about twenty-five feet in diameter at the bottom, gradually tapering to half that at the top.  Its summit is about one hundred and fifty feet above the plain, but it was at one time much higher, early travelers say five hundred feet.  The winds and rains, acting upon the soft materials of which it is composed, are gradually wearing it away, and the ground around its base is covered with pieces which have fallen from its summit.  I cannot account for the formation of this singular object, except by supposing that it was originally a <HI REND="italics">butte</HI>
005.sgm:, or isolated mound, through the centre of which, from its base to its summit, ran a column of harder material than its surroundings, and that the rain and wind, acting on the surface, have worn away its softer constituents and left a column standing.  The desert, called the Indian's Enchanted Ground, extending between the North Platte and White River, is in some places covered with bluffs and <HI REND="italics">buttes</HI>
005.sgm:, which the action of the elements has converted in a similar manner into all imaginable shapes.  Towers, walls and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Passing over a dreary country, which barely furnished enough of grass for our famished animals, we arrived at Scott's Bluffs on the afternoon of the 25th.  This is a bold escarpment of sand and clay, about a half a mile in length and near a thousand feet in height, extending southward from the river and rising like a gigantic barrier to obstruct our way.  It was <illus entity="a005-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHIMNEY ROCK.</P>
005.sgm:for a long time visible, and at a distance seemed impossible to be surmounted.  The road forks before we reach the bluffs, one trail passing around its southern end and re-joining the main road at some distance beyond it, the other passing directly over its summit.  The latter is the worse road of the two, but it being the shorter, we chose it.  We were detained some time at the foot of the bluff by the breaking of one of our wagons, but we at last got under way, and commenced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>On this portion of our journey, and in fact nearly all the way westward of Fort Kearney, we drove early and late. Starting sometimes before sunrise, we would drive on until ten o'clock, when we would stop an hour for breakfast, then we would again start and roll on until after sunset, sometimes until eleven o'clock.  These were the times which wore us down.  To be wakened from a sound nap early in the morning by the harsh voice of the assistant, as he yelled forth the dreaded reveille, with its accompanying club-thumps on the wagon-body; to go in the tumultuous corral and yoke up while you are so sleepy you can hardly keep your eyes open; to start hungry on a toilsome march; to drive with a short intermission until after night, and then, perhaps, to go on the detested guard, were things to be experienced to be understood.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our harships began visibly to affect us.  While in the early <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>At that time how far distant seemed the Golden State toward which I was traveling!  I hardly thought that fate would ever carry me to that glittering bourne!</P>
005.sgm:<P>Besides our returning trains we met, occasionally, other bodies; once, a party of renegade Mormons.  When our troops reached Utah and the rebels surrendered, all men and women <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>September 1st.  We passed many Indians, who followed us and thronged around us at our noon camp, begging and thieving.  They belonged to a village we passed farther on.  On an elevation near by we saw a singular burying ground.  On scaffolds, six or eight feet high, the corpses, wrapped in robes of the buffalo, were reclining.  These stages, rudely built of forked poles and sticks, were the first the deceased took on their journeys to the happy hunting grounds.  The sight was very repulsive.  A walled sepulchre on the roadside marked the resting place of a "big Injun."</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our road the next morning lay on the bluffs overlooking the river and through sand, in which our teams were continually stalling.  From our high ground we had a fine view of the surrounding country, the most prominent object of which was Laramie Peak.  To our right extended the valley of the Platte, as far as the eye could reach, walled in and half hidden by high and precipitous hills; while from the distant mountains on the left rolled the sparkling waters of the Laramie River, till they mingled with the waves of the larger stream.  Descending the bluffs we moved up the valley, the whole cavalcade enveloped in clouds of dust.  We were now nearing Fort Laramie, and soon the many rude buildings and tents of that post were spread before us.</P>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>V. To the Great South Pass.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>FORT Laramie, with its soldiers and Indians, and the animation around it was pleasant to see, and we were glad to be delayed there a few hours, while our lading underwent government inspection. While here I got hold of a New York <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
005.sgm:.  This was such a treat that I went off to myself and had a good time reading. It had been about two months since I had been in communication with the outside world, so that there were many things mentioned whose beginnings I was ignorant of. The Kansas-Nebraska affair was at its height, and the national excitement was well portrayed in the <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Fort Laramie is situated on the shores of the Laramie River, about two miles above its junction with the Platte. The numerous and extensive public buildings were neatly built of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:frame and <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
005.sgm:<P>We had great difficulty in finding grass for our animals, but finally found some on the opposite side of the Platte, two miles below the Fort, where we drove the herd.  We were compelled to ford both rivers on our way, each flowing over a rocky bed with a rapid current.  There is a bridge over the Laramie below the Fort, but it is now in a dilapidated condition, and the dingy little toll-house at one end is now tenantless.  The lumber used in the construction of this bridge was obtained from the Black Hills, some forty miles distant.  Emigrant and freight trains now cross at the ford, opposite the post.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Before leaving the Fort two of our party received their discharges, and one deserted for parts unknown.  We procured two others at the post, and then started on the long journey which lay ahead of us; the most of the party in bad spirits, for we had for some time previous to our arrival at Laramie been induced to believe that our stopping place would be there. For my own part, I was willing to proceed in spite of the hardships <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Crossing the Laramie River at the ford, we passed through the military establishment and commenced ascending the high, barren hills which overlook it.  Reaching the summit of this ridge, we descended a dangerous rocky gorge leading to the river bottom below, which is here about a half a mile in width. Continuing along this at the base of the hills, the road at length led us to the top of a bluff from which we descended by a break-neck declivity to the river.  A grove of tall timber arose from the flat at the foot of the bluff, close by whose shore we encamped after sunset, the bold, white outlines of which formed a magnificent background to the Scenery.  On account of grass we took the herd to the northern side of the river.  So <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>We encamped in the afternoon on the shores of a clear, Sparkling stream, shaded by majestic trees, which were scattered along its margin. We found two trains, which had left Laramie the day of our arrival, and which were under the command of Messrs. Crissman and Truett, encamped here.  A wagon belonging to one of them, while descending the dangerous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>We had a fine view on the morning of the 5th, from the hill on which we were encamped.  Bleak, rocky mountains arose majestically on all sides, covered on some places with pines, whose dark green foliage contrasted well with their dull gray background.  Deep gorges in places intersected them, along whose bottoms clear streams were sparkling, as they sped on their way to the Platte.  To the north we could discern the high ranges of mountains which walled in the valley of this river, which had now lost its characteristics, being changed from a broad, shallow stream, flowing through a monotonous plain, to a river of the mountains, shut in in some places by high, rocky bluffs, and running with a clear, swift current over a rocky or pebbly bed.  I felt a thrill of pleasure as I gazed through the clear, frosty air of the morning upon the wild scenery which surrounded me, looking doubly grand when the sun, as he wheeled above the eastern hills, gilded the summits of the neighboring mountains with his golden light, forming a picture of unsurpassing grandeur and beauty. Descending from our elevated camping place, we came to a large, clear running creek, whose shores were covered with timber, mostly cotton-wood and poplar.  This we followed down until we came to a broad valley, which we supposed to be that of the Platte, but it was only one of its tributaries. Proceeding up this for three or four miles, we encamped at noon by a swampy Spring, around which our half-starved animals were unable to find but little grass. Proceeding on our way over an excellent road, we encamped about four o'clock on a large branch of the Platte.  A trading post, with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Following up the valley, we at last left it and struck up a long dry ca&ntilde;on which led to the valley of the Platte.  The scenery along the route was very striking and picturesque. The Black Hills arose irregularly on our left in huge, black billows, above which towered the cloud-capped summit of Mt. Laramie, which was for a long time visible; but it was at last hid from view by high ridges which arose between us, the whole range enveloped in the hazy atmosphere of the Indian summer.  We again reached the valley of the Platte, and at nightfall encamped about a half a mile from the river on a sandy bottom and near a fine grove of cotton-woods.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The next morning we made an early start, and soon reached the first crossing of the Platte about a mile distant.  The bed of the river is here about fifteen hundred feet wide, and owing to its deep, sandy banks is in a few places fordable.  The stream, which during the spring freshets often fills its banks, was not more than three hundred feet in width now, and by doubling teams we soon crossed it, and proceeded on our way up the valley, the vegetation of which was all dried and withered by the drought.  Proceeding over a road filled with deep sand, we came in the afternoon to a group of <HI REND="italics">buttes</HI>
005.sgm:<P>We reached the second crossing of the Platte the next morning.  This was a difficult place to ford, the shores being some twenty feet high and exceedingly steep, while the bottom was a bed of yielding sand.  After crossing, we stopped a short time to breakfast, when we again started, and passing around <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The next morning we were awakened by the usual reveille of "Roll out," but their was a suffix appended to it on this occasion, in which the "awakening spirit" said-- <HI REND="italics">and let's track rabbits</HI>
005.sgm:<P>The road having once more become passable, we made a start at noon on the 10th, and rolling over a good road we camped at sunset on the River Fourche Boisee, two miles above its junction with the Platte.  This is a clear running stream, ten yards in width, and has a narrow fringe of cotton-woods along its shores.  There being no grass around our camp, we took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Passing over a broad and desolate ridge, we struck the Platte the next morning, and proceeding along the top of the bluffs overlooking the river, we encamped at noon near its shore.  The country passed over was awfully desolate.  From the waters of the river to as far as the eye could reach on either side, dreary artemisia-covered plains, with drearier hills arose above them in broken and rugged ridges.  The little herbage that appeared above the sterile earth was seen in crisp, sapless bunches, and the want of a sufficiency was telling sadly on our animals, which were daily "falling faint by the wayside," never to rise again.  The road was now lined with the carcasses of the oxen of preceding trains, which we were obliged to pass with hermetically sealed nostrils on account of the insufferable stench they emitted.  They were in every stage of decomposition, and the sight of these reeking, putrid remains was another disagreeable feature of our journey.  We reached Deer Creek, which is one hundred and ten miles west from Fort Laramie, in the afternoon. There was quite a considerable settlement of French traders and Indians here, and it was a pleasant sight to see this village after our long wilderness journey.  We had been so long outside the pale of civilization, that the sight of human habitations, however rudely built, with little children, however scantily or duskily hued, playing around their doors, was very refreshing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:to our minds.  These traders had mostly a plurality of wives, which they purchased from their fathers with powder and whisky, and which they put aside at their pleasure as soon as old age has marred their <HI REND="italics">beauty</HI>
005.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 17th, with cattle half dead with hunger and thirst, we slowly drove from our night's camp, and passing over a country rugged and desolate, we moved on a high bluff overlooking the river, which was about a mile distant, and near a clear, sparkling stream which afforded us excellent water.  Here we bade a final adieu to the Platte (as the road here left it), a river which I for one was heartily tired off.  We had encamped on its shores for a month and a half, traveling during that time a distance of over four hundred and fifty miles.  When we first saw its dirty face at Fort Kearney it was over a mile in width, lazily flowing between forest-crowned islands and through a dull, monotonous plain. As we ascended it, the hills, which bordered the narrowing valley, began to grow higher and more abrupt, and barren sandbars to take the place of wooded islands.  After a journey of one hundred and fifty miles, we strike the South Fork; in the whole distance not having seen anything worthy the name of tributary;  the river decreasing rather than increasing in volume, as the thirsty sands drink in its water.  After having crossed the South Fork, quite a change takes place in the appearance of the valley; the river bottoms are often sandy, and occasionally intersected by sandy bluffs. The ranges of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>From our noon's encampment we passed over a gloomy, God-forsaken country, and corralled at night in a deep and rocky gorge, through which our road led.  We had not expected to find water here; but on searching, we found a little brook flowing at the bottom of a deep ravine, near the corral. Thinking ourselves very fortunate, we filled our kegs, but upon trying the water we found it to be so abominably alkaline as to be unfit for drinking.  There was not a spear of grass in the vicinity of the corral, so that our miserable, broken down animals were compelled to fast another day.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Owing to hunger, thirst and the bitter coldness of the night, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The forenoon of the 20th was over a country where desolation reigned supreme.  On either side the desert stretched as far as the eye could reach, the dull monotony of its dead level being occasionally broken by abrupt <HI REND="italics">buttes</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Early the next morning we passed a newly erected trading post, and shortly after we arrived at the celebrated Rock Independence. This is a huge granite rock, somewhat semi.spherical in shape, and is about six hundred feet long and one hundred and fifty feet high, its surface entirely destitute of soil. The outside appears to be covered with sorts of layers or scales of various sizes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:and from one to two feet in thickness, the whole being of a dark gray color.  The Surface of the rock is filled with names and dates from base to summit, on the side fronting the road, where ambitious travelers have endeavored to immortalize themselves through the medium of black and red paint, converted into glaring capitals.  Thousands of names, known and unknown to fame, are here recorded on a gigantic album which will stand till the crack of doom.  Fremont, on his <illus entity="a005-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE DEVIL'S GATE.</P>
005.sgm:return from his first expedition in 1842, carved a cross on this rock, which, after lie became a candidate for the Presidency, became a prominent object: the enemies of the Pathfinder Seeing Jesuitism in the act.  The rock is situated close to the river, near by where the road crosses it, and as it stands on the edge of a plain, it has a majestic look.  About four miles farther on we saw a still greater curiosity. This was the Devil's Gate, where the Sweet Water forces its way through a rugged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:escarpment between rocks which rise four hundred feet perpendicularly above it, the width of the passage being thirty feet. The bed of the stream is choked up with masses of rock which have fallen from above, among which the river tumbles and foames as it rushes onward through this diabolically named defile.  We were obliged to make somewhat of a <HI REND="italics">detour</HI>
005.sgm:<P>The scenery along this river was gloomy and repulsive. The snow-covered mountains gleaming in the far distance, the gray, sage-covered plain, the river-fiat, with its yellow, withered grass, gave a cheerless picture, made still more so by the numerous human graves, and carcasses and bones of oxen which strewed the margins of the road and made a vast charnel-house of the valley of the Sweet Water.  Near the Devil's Gate we saw where many men, women and children had been buried by the roadside, the victims of a species of plague which had attacked emigrants a few years before. Some of them were unmarked, save by ominous depressions, while others were covered by huge rocks which kindly hands had rolled over them to do. double duty for the dead: as monuments and protection from the fangs of wolf and coyote. Their names had been rudely painted on these rocks, but the sun and rain had nearly obliterated them.</P>
005.sgm:<P>My occupation and its surroundings had about driven from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The morning of the 26th we crossed the river, and encamped at 10 o'clock on a high bluff on its left shore.  We here had a fifteen-mile stretch to cross without water, and allowing our animals three hours to feed, we filled our water kegs and pushed on, our road laying over a desolate, rolling plain covered with sagebrush.  In the afternoon we entered a broad, sandy valley, through which ran the dry bed of a stream.  Ascending this valley to its upper extremity, we crossed a sandy ridge and corralled about 10 o'clock at night on a waterless plain.  We made an early start the next morning, and rolling over a hilly and barren plateau, we descended at noon into the valley of the Sweet Water, which was here about a half a mile in width, and corralled.  There being no grass along the river, we drove the herd to the bluffs, which were scantily supplied with bunch-grass.  Several of our animals gave out during the forenoon. The river was here fringed by a dense growth of willows, but the characteristic sterility of this valley was manifest in the barren plain and bluffs bordering it.  Two miles from our noon's camp we came to where a ridge of rocky hills extended across the valley through which the river forced its way.  The road over the bluffs is a difficult one, and we encamped after night on its farther side in a ca&ntilde;on leading down to the river.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Still continuing up the river, we came in the afternoon to where another mountain wall intersects the valley, which, below it, is about a mile in breadth.  The river penetrates it by a deep gorge, walled on either side by rocky, perpendicular bluffs.  The road leaves the valley by a deep ca&ntilde;on (pronounced <HI REND="italics">kanyon</HI>
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005.sgm:<P>The morning of the 30th came upon us with a heavy frost, which whitened the valley and neighboring mountains like a young snow.  The whole party were ordered out early to hunt up the oxen, which were interspersed in the jungle bordering the neighboring branch.  We broke corral at sunrise, and ascending a rocky hill, stood upon the summit of a succession of barren ridges, which extended as far as the eye could reach in every direction, a rugged depression marking the course of the river. We saw two lakes of considerable size on our left, the shores of which were encrusted with saleratus in nearly a pure state; so much resembling that substance, indeed, that it answered the purpose for raising bread.  While on this ridge, a wind-storm came on, which nearly blinded us, as it blew the sharp sand directly in our faces.  We were obliged to walk in a bent posture while the storm lasted, which was until we reached the Sweet Water at noon.  We encamped on the left bank of the river, near a thicket of willows, which supplied us with fuel, and took the herd a mile down the river to graze.  This place is called the Last Crossing.  We met here a wagon-master and three teamsters, who had come in advance of a return train which was a few miles back on the road, and they agreed to join our caravan, which was deficient in available men.  Draper, the wagon-master, who had been all the way to Camp Floyd and who knew the road well, was to act as pilot to our train over the difficult route which yet remained between us and our destination.  We broke corral a little after noon, and crossing the river for the last time, ascended a gravelly bluff, and followed along the right bank of the river.  We soon met the returning "outfit," which contained the men belonging to three trains, and some twenty wagons.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The 31st we went but four miles, camping at noon close by the river.  Our employers had a herd a short distance up the valley, from which we obtained a supply of fresh oxen, leaving <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>On some trains the herders did no driving whatever, which left them fresh for their all-night work, or noon herding. This was not Russel &amp; Co.'s way of doing, as they got all the work out of their men that was possible.  We would feel so tired after our day's drive that when our turns came to stand guard we mentally protested; but as this involved silence, it availed nothing when loud-mouthed protests fell flat.  So without suppers we would leave camp on a half or all-night guard, depending on something to eat coming out to us by our messmates, and for a nap at our noon-halt the next day.  This brought on So much drowsiness that on my next drive I would often find myself turned somnambulist, and driving oxen in my sleep.</P>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VI. Among the Mountains.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>We reached the South Pass on the 1st of October.  I had thought this was something like the Devil's Gate on a large scale, a mountain walled gorge, but it was very different.  Imagine a nearly level desert plain, averaging a mile in width, bounded on either side by a low range of hills, beyond which extends a rolling country from ten to twenty miles, until it reaches a range of lofty bleak mountains--and you can form an idea of the best Rocky Mountain pass.  About two miles to our right we could see the valley of the Sweet Water, which we were leaving.  The snowy peaks of the Wind River Mountains, which rose far to the north of us, were glittering in the sun's rays, while to the south, rising like a huge barrier, we saw Table Mountain.  All around, as far as the eye could reach, was a scene of wild desolation.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We nooned at the Pacific Spring, which is a short distance west of the culminating point of our route.  This is a morass of twenty acres, vividly green and with a sluggish stream running through it. When I first saw this meadow I thought we had a nice corralling place.  We camped on the southern shore.  As soon as the oxen were loosened, they broke in a body for this deceitful meadow, in which many of them were soon floundering and unable to get out.  We dragged them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>At sunrise we started, and passing over a desert covered with beds of sand and miry fiats and sloughs, white with alkali, we camped at noon by a brackish stream.  When we resumed our march, we stirred up clouds of saleratus-impregnated dust which aggravated our thirst, as we could not drink the water where we had camped.  Much of the water in this part of the country was the color of weak lye, and tasted similarly.  I have known the white hair of oxen to acquire a pink tinge from their continued use of it.</P>
005.sgm:<P>At a place called Deep Hollow we saw three black circles of tires and wagon-irons, where the Mormons had burned as many corrals in the previous fall.  There were seventy-eight wagons loaded with provisions for the advance troops of the Utah Expedition, which were two days' march ahead, and which afterwards sorely felt the need of them.  The guerilla leader was Lot Smith, a Mormon "Old Put."</P>
005.sgm:<P>As the cold increased, fuel became plentier in the shape of a large growth of sage-brush.  Much of this was dry and dead, and at night we made the scenery luminous with bonfires, around which we stood or reclined.  On the 9th of October we crossed Green River, the Rio Verde of the old Spaniards.  The next day we encamped on Ham's Fork, near where lay the carcasses of five hundred cattle belonging to a supply train of the Utah army.  They had perished from hunger and cold the preceding winter.  A sickening odor was still around the spot, so that we dared not camp near the ford.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>On the 11th we reached Fort Bridger. This had been a trading post, and during the marauding excursions of the Saints, to harass and destroy our supply trains, it was used as a starting point.  On the approach of our troops, the Mormons deserted the place after burning it down.  General Johnston arrived here at the close of November, and making the place his winter quarters, built a fort and remained here until spring, suffering many hardships from cold and lack of the provisions the Mormons burned.  As soon as the snows had sufficiently melted, supplies were sent to the beleagured troops, who were found eating their last rations. They marched on to Salt Lake after recuperating, and accomplished their mission.  The commissary here lightened our wagons to the extent of four hundred pounds apiece, which was quite a help to us.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We had now joined with us another train--the same one which had passed us on the Platte.  The men had rebelled against their wagon.master, and Russel &amp; Co's. agents had ordered the two trains to run together under our own.  There were now in the train fifty wagons, sixty men, and over six hundred oxen.  Among the new men were several Mexican Indians.  This many men consumed much provision, and our bacon running low, application was made at a cattle station belonging to our employers for some beef cattle, which was refused.  That night two expert thieves of our party were sent to the agency and brought home three fine bullocks, which were divided among our men.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Bearing in mind the vast amount of game roaming over the plains and among the mountains, it would naturally be supposed that much of our diet would be from that source. What fresh meat we had outside of the domain of the buffalo, whose flesh, particularly in the summer, is unfit to eat, was mainly from our oxen when accidentally killed. This, of course, was poor eating.  We saw deer and antelope frequently, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Our implements for the conversion of our few articles of diet into ox-propellers were few at the start, and grew fewer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>On the 17th we were caught in a blinding snow-storm and were detained four days.  Our time was spent caring for the oxen, gathering wood and idling around camp.  We left here on the 21st, and crossed Bear River, which flows into Salt Lake.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our road throughout the journey had been a natural one except at the fords, where the banks had been dug away. Whenever a bluff lining a valley came too near a stream, the road would diverge and pass over the hill until the valley became passable.  The ascents were generally difficult and required doubling of teams, while the descending slopes were often scenes of serious accidents to men, oxen and wagons.  We crossed but one bridge before reaching Utah, and that was built by a trader who charged toll.  In the part of the country we were now in, however, we came across an occasional "dug-road," built by the troops the last spring, which enabled us to get along when otherwise it would have been impossible.</P>
005.sgm:<P>By November 1st we had no provisions left but flour; bacon, beans, rice and coffee all gone.  Of course, with our wagons loaded with the material for the manufacture of life's staff, we would not want; neither need sailors adrift suffer for lack of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>There were three ways of entering Salt Lake Valley: by Emigration, Echo and Provo ca&ntilde;ons.   We took the latter route.  The road was built by the Mormon Church at much expense, as at places the rocky walls of the valley came close to the water, when wooden ways would be built over it.  Toll was charged us. All the way down Provo Ca&ntilde;on the road was dangerous, in spite of the labor spent upon it.  Our long teams had trouble in drawing the wagons around short curves,, as the strain of the leaders had a tendency to drag the "swing" cattle into the gulfs below.  One wagon tumbled into the river and spilled its contents.  On the plains, when an accident happened, it was the custom for the train to halt until matters were righted.  But now that we were continually troubled with breakdowns and upsets, the luckier teams ahead went selfishly on until they, too, were in trouble.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I give a sketch of a part of our road down Provo Ca&ntilde;on.  Our artist, in the re-drawing for photo-engraving, has omitted the slope lying between the almost perpendicular rocks and the creek through which the track was cut.  Sometimes we would come across expansions of the gorge, but they were so sloping that we could not form corral on them, so that throughout the time we were passing the ca&ntilde;on, we remained in line.  Sometimes we would wind around craggy rocks; then descend to the foaming creek, over which, on a corduroy road, we would go awhile, and then ascend to fresh dangers.  If the other passes to Salt Lake were as bad as these I don't wonder that our troops were so long on a stand about entering the valley; so few defenders could have kept them out.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The reader has a view of our descent of Provo River, but I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:can only describe the sounds it gave rise to.  I never heard such a bedlam of swearing and yelling as within the gloom of its gorges.  At Platte crossing and other difficult points I thought I had heard the acme of malediction; but to Provo Ca&ntilde;on was reserved the dubious honor of being the scene of the cap-sheaf of past efforts. To say that the ox-drivers swore like troopers, or "like our army in Flanders," would be drawing <illus entity="a005-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DOWN PROVO CA&ntilde;ON</P>
005.sgm:it a world too mild. The air resounded, and the high rocks echoed with imprecations worthy of pirates.  There was the broad-mouthed oath of the Missourian, the scientific curse of the Yankee, the guttural imprecation of the German, and the broguey expletive of him from the Emerald sod.  To these were added the " <HI REND="italics">carajos," "carambos," "cozedos</HI>
005.sgm: " and arraignments of derelict saints from the tongues of the Mexicans <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Taking into account the nature of our road, and that there were fifty teamsters, each with twelve oxen to manage, and that our train, when in close order, reached about a mile, it need not be wondered at that there was confusion, with some resultant naughtiness of language.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We had expected to go through the ca&ntilde;on by night, but the continued misfortunes that befell us made it impossible, and we halted as darkness began to arch over the sky-light above us.  In our contracted space we could only leave the wagons strung along the gorge, and turn loose the hungry, foot-sore cattle.  Here I stood my last guard for "Old Russel," as we called the firm who employed us.  The night was bitterly cold, and a fierce wind was blowing down the ca&ntilde;on from the distant valley of Provo.  Walking back and forth, over thorny plants and sharp stones, and shivering with cold, I passed a night to be remembered; and I was glad when I saw the morning sun gilding the frost-tipped crests of the ca&ntilde;on walls.  Gathering our still hungry and benumbed oxen, we continued down the valley, the scenery of which grew more grand as we proceeded.  On the left bank the walls arose almost perpendicularly to the height of a thousand feet, having offsets in places on which were growing tall pines, while at the foot of the gray wall the river leaped and foamed.  We passed at one place a frozen cascade which must have been eight hundred feet high.  This distorted column of ice was a fine sight, and was an evidence of the coldness of the night we had just passed.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>The valley gradually widened, but the road was still dangerous.  We soon met companies of Mormons, men and boys, who were chopping wood and mending roads, and anon we encountered an aged Samaritan with a wagon load of onions and cabbages for our special use, which he sold to those who had any money, or its equivalent in the shape of transferable goods belonging to our employers.  As the most of us were as poor as the turkey allegedly Job's (although his book fails to mention the fact that he ever owned such a bird, either poor or fat) when we hired at Leavenworth, it will be seen that the Mormon hucksters got more bacon and ox-chains than coin of the realm.  Those few who had conscience instead of money were obliged to see luxuries, like milk, eggs and vegetables, pass by them like the Priest and the Levite of old, giving them no assistance.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Near the mouth of the widening gorge we came to that evidence of civilization-a toll-gate.  Here a saintly keeper slate in hand, kept tally of our wagons as they lumbered past, the toll being one dollar per ton, or $1,250 for our train. The road belonged to the Mormon Church--otherwise Brigham Young.  Paying an enemy toll to enter his conquered territory was the height of absurdity.  Just below the gate we crossed the river on an excellent bridge, and still following down the ca&ntilde;on we left it by an immense natural gateway, where towering rocks arose perpendicularly from each side of the river.</P>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VII. In the Valley of the Shadow.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>WE were now in the Great Valley, fifty miles below Salt Lake City.  We corraled on the edge of a plain extending from the mountain to Lake Utah. The section we were in was oval in shape and surrounded by high mountains covered with snow. In the centre was the Lake, its waters shining brightly in the sun, and from the mouth of its gloomy ca&ntilde;on we could see the Provo River winding through a desolate plain toward the inland sea. The dreary plain, the gleaming lake and rugged surroundings formed a scene of quiet grandeur I never will forget.</P>
005.sgm:<P>On the 5th we continued up the valley. The road was smooth, and we made good time. Evidences that we were approaching civilization were hourly becoming apparent. At first we saw, rising above the plain, an object which proved to be a farm house, but it was so far from us that we could only see its outlines; but further on we came to cultivated grounds enclosed with mud walls and arranged for irrigation. My readers can hardly understand how we felt at seeing the haunts of a civilized people; but if they will recall the time which had elapsed since we left the States, it will not seem strange that these foreign homes of a still more foreign people arose before our eyes like friends long separated.  Other farms and cottages came in sight, and sundry of their dwellers began to line the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>One of our Mormon friends invited me to dine with him.  I bought the invitation with a gun-barrel I picked up on the Platte.  At the hour named I repaired to his house, a one-roomed "adobe," which answered the purpose of parlor, bedroom and kitchen.  He had but one wife and two children, with whom I was soon seated at table.  After grace was said the man of the house took a quid from his mouth and uttered the words "pile in," when we all felt at our ease. I "piled in," much to the disgust, I fear, of my host, who saw his gun-barrel vanishing in a dissolving view.  This mode of dining was quite a change from sitting on the ground, eating from a common plate, but I soon got used to it.  What we had were not luxuries, but it was relished.  There were beef, potatoes, biscuits and butter; and the whole punctuated with a full stop, in the guise of a disk of good, thick, pumpkin pie!  It really did me good to sit in the warmth of an old-fashioned fire-place, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Dinner eaten, I procured some vegetables for my mess and went back to the corral.  It was a pleasure to look on my companions.  They all had had good dinners; for those who were without money had the equivalent in the shape of "portable property," which, if not their own, answered the same purpose.  Their faces were radiant with smiles, so different from their past woe-begone looks.  Some of them, I am sorry to say, were a little drunk.  But there was a cessation of their chronic state of swearing, which partially compensated for this.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Among the group of villagers we saw an old man who told me he was from Philadelphia.  In this distant land we were acquaintances; in fact, we felt a little related.  He seemed to take much interest in me when he found out where I lived, and invited me to his home.  "Uncle Job," for so his neighbors called him, dwelt in a little adobe house on the main street, where he lived the anomalous life, in that polygamous land, of a bachelor; for what reason I don't know, unless it was to help reduce the average.  He had the patience of his prononym of old, and took me over to his little house and garden and showed me the mammoth vegetables he had raised, and introduced me to his next door neighbor, a fair Mormoness, all the while talking to me in a very voluble manner.  Uncle Job had a skeleton in his closet which he showed me.  It was a black bottle, and his frequent visits to this was what made him so talkative.  He denounced the soldiers for coming among them, praised Brigham Young for his course, and extolled the Mormon heaven as being the true New Jerusalem towards which mankind should travel.  He told me his troubles with one of his neighbors, and, in fact, was getting so affectionate and communicative, that I was fain to get away from him and hie me to the corral.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>The town had about five hundred people in its borders, mostly of the lower class of English and Danes.  There were no Irish, but there was one family of Africans, who seemed to be held in esteem. The foreign element, having come through New York without stopping,. had retained their dress and manners.  They wore wooden shoes, and were coarsely clad. The houses were on roomy lots, and were mainly of sun-dried bricks and had few adornments inside or out.</P>
005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THROUGH THE STREETS OF LEHI.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We left in the afternoon, and after night came to the town of Lehi-a name taken from the Mormon Bible.  This was surrounded by a wall twelve feet high.  We experienced a strange sensation, driving through streets between lighted houses, but we enjoyed it.  The gate-way, as we emerged from the town, was so narrow that I was afraid my wagon might play the part of the rams' horns on Jericho, and send the walls tumbling about my head; but I got through without hubbing. </P>
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005.sgm:<P>At midnight we camped on the banks of the Jordan, paying the Bishop of Lehi $50 for the grass.  We were awakened the next morning by the crowing of neighboring roosters, a sort of reveille we had not heard for a long, long time.  As we would make a dry camp that night, we concluded not to start until noon.  The Jordan, which lay in our way, was crossed by a bridge, and was no longer a hard road to travel.  The river flows between deep cut banks, and was about twenty yards wide; the water green and somewhat alkaline.  As to the origin of the name of this river, allowing Salt Lake, with its bitter water and absence of outlet, to represent the Dead Sea, and Lake Utah to stand for the Sea of Galilee, the appropriateness of the name Jordan to the connecting stream, with its rocky bed and rugged surrounding scenery, is obvious.  At the far end of the bridge was a combination of laundry and grocery. The barmaid of the institution was washing at the time, her dishevelled locks hanging around a face not very attractive.  Our men being short of money and on the move, and the bar being on the "off side" of the train, but little business was done here.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We encamped at midnight, after a thirty mile drive, the longest day's travel we had ever made, on the edge of Cedar Valley.  We were up early in the morning and started on our last drive.  We met many return teamsters on foot, and these were eagerly questioned as to how far we had to go, and they gave us all sorts of answers; some rather disrespectful.  About the middle of the forenoon the lead teamster reported our destination in sight, and then a shout went up on the desert air which rang all along our mile of wagons.  Even the oxen seemed imbued with a subdued enthusiasm.</P>
005.sgm:<P>A few more words about our cattle before we part with them. There is not much sentiment connected with these animals, although when the ancient poet spoke of the "Ox-eyed Juno," the alleged wife of Jupiter, he paid an inferential tribute to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Our oxen were too many in number and transient in ownership to merit names, except in certain cases.  My wheelers were "Dodge" and Samson.  The propensity of the first to obey the summons "Whoa!" was such that at the least intimation of it he would surge back and stop the whole team; sometimes splitting his yoke, and once, going into a gully, nearly getting killed.  For this cause I was forced to give the command in subdued tones, and yet so the rest would hear. "Samson," so named from his strength, broke down from over-willingness, and at Fort Kearney was substituted by a bovine giant, which I called Goliath.  These names sounded strange to my un-Biblical companions, who listened to them inquiringly, and who were satisfied with "Texas," "Nig," "Roan" and other color-giving names; though "Tom and Jerry," from the name of a favorite tipple, was sometimes given to a yoke.</P>
005.sgm:<P>At Camp Floyd, named after the then Secretary of War, there were thirty-five hundred troops living in four hundred adobe houses.  There were also commissary houses and cavalry stables, making a large, well laid-out town.  We commenced unloading at two o'clock, and by four had finished.  We then took the wagons outside the camp where, among acres of others, we left them to rot down piecemeal.  The oxen, except two teams we kept to haul our provisions and effects to Salt Lake, were given in charge of Mormon herders.  But two of my own were left of the twelve I started.  One was the near wheeler named "Dodge," from his habit of dropping back as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Returning to camp we were in time to see the soldiers on dress parade.  Their bright arms and prompt movements were pleasant to see, all being regulars.  We saw General Albert Sydney Johnston, in command, who in four years was to fall at Shiloh, in arms against the flag which now floated over him.  Many of the company's commissioned officers were in the same time to be colonels and generals in either service. Strains of martial music enlivened the scene; among which were the stirring airs of "Yankee Doodle," "Bold Soldier Boy" and the " Girl I Left Behind Me:" airs soon to be familiar to all, north and south.  Many of the privates were deserting for California and elsewhere.</P>
005.sgm:<P>This army had many tribulations en <HI REND="italics">route</HI>
005.sgm: to Camp Floyd. It left Fort Laramie the previous September, and from want of supplies (which were intercepted and burned by Mormon guerillas) and deep snows got no farther then Bridger. When spring opened the troops were detained, while Governor Cummings and the Peace Commissioners were parleying with the Mormon leaders, and did not reach Salt Lake until the 26th of June.  They found the streets almost deserted, the leading citizens having gone to Provo, fifty miles south. Governor Cummings truckled to the rebels, and to induce them to return they were granted amnesty; and the troops marched to a sterile plain, forty or fifty miles south-east and beyond the Jordan, that their presence might not cause irritation. Thus humored, the people soon came back, and for months reaped a rich harvest selling grain, flour, wood and lumber to the troops.  Brigham Young ran his three saw mills in a ca&ntilde;on he claimed as his own, steadily cutting material for soldiers' quarters, each earning one hundred dollars per day. The Mormons had their own fun spoiling the Egyptians in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The next morning we retraced our route.  Walking in advance of our baggage wagons we waded the Jordan where we crossed it, there being no bridge. Here was another of the "groceries," where whisky was sold at twenty-five cents a drink. We nooned here and again took up the line of march toward Salt Lake City.  We soon saw this place, twenty-five miles away, from the divide between the two valleys of Utah and Salt Lake.  Near here two remarkable Springs gushed forth from the roadside; one hot, the other cold; so close we could almost reach both at once.  I could easily say I caught fish in the one and boiled them in the other; but I forbear.  When really or practically alone on his journey a traveler is often tempted to amplify his descriptions, as evidenced by the tales of solitary voyages, from Gulliver down; so, thus traveling, let me have due credit for my abnegation in not repeating this fish story; one so justified by modern usage. Both springs were impregnated with sulphur.  Many similar ones were in the neighborhood; some with embankments around them formed naturally.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The road we were traveling was a magnificent one; one hundred feet wide, smooth and so straight we could see miles ahead.  As we neared the city we saw a few villages inhabited by industrious people.  The fields on either hand looked parched and desolate, but the thick set stubble showed that good crops had been raised.  They were enclosed with mud walls made by filling board frames with the sticky clay dug from the ditches at the base.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We passed an extensive beet sugar factory on the way. The machinery had been brought at great expense from England, but the enterprise was a failure and the works silent. Further on was the Penitentiary, also still for want of tenants.  We reached the city at sunset, and encamped in a vacant lot, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VIII. The Saint's Rest.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>GREAT SALT LAKE CITY--the Jerusalem, the Mecca, the Holy of Holies of the Latter Day Saints and the grand centre around which the wheel of Mormonism then revolved; the spot from whence issued all the mandates of the Church and where all the villanies laid to the charge of Brigham Young and his satellites were concocted--is located near the foot-hills of the Wahsatch Mountains and on the eastern edge of the Great Valley.  From the base of this range, the tall peaks of which were then white with snow, the town extends towards the lake, which is some twenty miles to the westward; its scattered buildings covering several square miles.  Speaking of the place as it was in 1858, each square contained ten acres and was divided into eight lots of one acre and a quarter each, so that it presented quite a suburban and rural appearance.  The streets, which were eight rods wide, and from the nature of the soil as hard as an asphaltum pavement, crossed each other at right angles and were shaded by rows of young cotton-woods and locusts; the town in its eleven years of existence not having had time to develop a very large growth of trees.  Along the sides of the streets flowed clear and sparkling streams of water, which answered the double purpose of supplying the people with drink and irrigation for their gardens.  This water was preserved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I give a view of East Temple Street, not to show what the city was like then, for the sketch was made long since, when railroads had made it accessable to tourists and filled it with business enterprise, but to show its position at the foot of the snow-clad Wahsatch Mountains, whence comes the sparkling water which quenches the thirst of its people and irrigates its gardens.  The city spreads and rises, but the rugged background gleams from snowy peaks and frowns from shadowy recesses of a lower altitude the same now as then, when thirty years ago I gazed at it from the gateway leading from Utah Valley.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The houses, which were built of adobes, were generally of one story, so that the town presented rather a squatty appearance, which was occasionally relieved, however, by a few houses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MAIN STREET SALT LAKE CITY.</P>
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005.sgm:of larger and loftier dimensions, belonging to dignitaries of the Church.  These arose above the humble tenements around them, as the worldly positions of their saintly owners towered above those of the vulgar herd.  Among these the house, or rather palace, of Brigham Young was conspicuous, both from its elevated position and its architectural beauty. It was located in the highest part of the city and near the base of the mountains, which rose several thousand feet above it in rugged outlines.  It consisted of a series of buildings, built apparently at different times--an addition being made, I presume, whenever a fresh victim was added to the spreading establishment of its multi-wived owner--and taking all things into consideration, was quite a respectable looking edifice.  The main building was built of adobes, and plastered and painted to an extent which gave it quite a Yankeefied air.  West of this and on the same square was the Lion House, a noble building, with its gable fronting the street and with a stone lion <HI REND="italics">couchant</HI>
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005.sgm:<P>The "Public Works" was one of the peculiar institutions of the Metropolis.  In order to enable the Mormons of foreign countries, who were generally needy, to reach the New Jerusalem a range of workshops were erected in Temple Block, where all manner of avocations were to be carried on, So that the Saint after his arrival at the promised land could refund the money which had been advanced by the Church for his passage, by laboring in these "Public Works" the required length <illus entity="a005-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE TABERNACLE.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The other public buildings were the County Court House <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The business thoroughfare of the city (East Temple Street) runs north and south through it, and was for some distance thickly lined with stores, workshops and hotels.  The merchants were doing a splendid business, and their stocks of merchandise were speedily being evaporated by their Mormon customers, who, with their pockets well lined with government gold, were buying at an extravagant rate those foreign luxuries which a lack of the needful had hitherto deprived them of, and which retailed at prices high enough to startle persons fresh from the cheap domain of the East.  Sugar and coffee went briskly at 60 and 65 cents per pound, molasses flowed at the rate of $4.00 per gallon, and vinegar was $1.50 per bottle. Calico retailed at from 30 to 40 cents per yard, and clothing of all kinds was proportionately dear. Hardware was enormously high also--a frying pan would not cross the counter for less than $2.50, a coffee-mill would not come down from its abiding place short of a $4.00 bait, and a tin coffee-pot off its nail for less than $3.50.  These prices to persons in the States seem fabulous, but from bitter experience I know them to be correct, as our outfits, preparatory for California, were purchased here. As an evidence of how speedily goods were disposed of at these rates, I will state a fact.  One house (Gilbert &amp; Co.) disposed of $3,000 worth of goods the first day their stock was exposed for sale--a large transaction when we consider the penurious habits of the denizens of Salt Lake City, and the limited means they had of obtaining hard money, the only kind taken by the merchants in exchange for their goods.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The two hotels, the "Empire" and "New World," were also coining their dimes. Poisonous concoctions, bearing the names of "Pure Old Whisky," "Prime French Brandy," "Superior Port Wine," etc., were here offered to a thirsty public at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:rate of two bits (twenty-five cents) a drink, the drinkers little dreaming that they were gulping down a perfect catalogue of poisonous drugs at each potation.  Each of these establishments had its gambling hell, where newly arrived greenhorns were scientifically fleeced by experienced blacklegs, who had flocked here from all parts of the Union in anticipation of a windfall.  I visited one of them one evening.  Ascending a dark stairway in the rear of the building, I entered a low room densely packed with humanity, and reeking with the fumes of tobacco and bad whisky.  The players were seated at their tables and busily engaged in solving the mysteries of <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
005.sgm:<P>The tradesmen of Great Salt Lake City were revelling in the present flourishing state of affairs as greatly as the merchants and grog venders. The shoemakers, in particular, wore a look of independence, which spoke of plenty to do and high rates for the doing.  These sedentaries unblushingly demanded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Great Salt Lake City was founded in the summer of 1847 by an advance column of the Mormon emigration, which was sent to seek some isolated spot in the Far West, where the Church might locate and prosper, free from the persecution of their relentless enemies.  They were then established at Nauvoo, in Illinois; a city which they had built up after their expulsion by a lawless mob from their homes in Jackson county, Missouri.  While at Nauvoo they were granted extraordinary privileges by the Governor of Illinois; one of which was to raise an armed force whereby they might repel the assaults of their enemies, for they were believed by their neighbors to be an innocent, persecuted people, deserving of aid and sympathy. The new settlement grew strong and mighty until fifteen thousand Saints had gathered around this nucleus; four thousand of which were well-drilled soldiers.  A Temple was erected on a hill overlooking the city, where the people might congregate to hear the sublime mysteries of their religion expounded, and this was the pride and glory of its builders. Things went on swimmingly for a while; but dark whispers began to arise at last that the city was becoming a nest of villainy, a central point for all the thieves and murderers in the vicinity to seek shelter in, after having transacted their nefarious crimes, and where, shielded by their aiders and abettors, they could not be brought to justice.  In vain the Saints endeavored to stay the storm which was gathering over their heads, by protestations of loyalty and innocence; the ball was in motion, which was to crush Mormonism in Illinois.  One thing brought on another, until the Saints and Gentiles were in arms against each other, and scenes of violence occurred, which were a disgrace to the age. Finally the State militia <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>After the resignation of Governor Young, and upon the instalment <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>This is all the author has to say of Salt Lake City, except that the sight of it did not make the impression on him that it has made on other travelers.  This was doubtless because he beheld it at an unfavorable season, when the shade trees along the streets were denuded of their foliage, and when the gardens and orchards, which in the summer form the chief attractions of the city, had lost their bloom, blighted by the severe frosts of November; and besides it had not burst at once upon his view, as the way had been paved for beholding it, by the hamlets and villages he had previously seen.  But delightful and refreshing in the extreme must be the sight of this city in the month of June, when the dust-begrimed traveler, emerging from the tortuous, gloomy defiles of the Wahsatch, comes in view of it; its gardens in bloom, its trees robed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Brigham Young, the Grand Lama of Utah, was invisible at the time of my arrival in his domains.  Some said this was because the eyes of Justice were on his trail to make him answer certain charges alleged against him; others, that the Army had offended him in thus entering his domain without leave or license from his royal self, and that he was undertaking to spite Uncle Sam by clinging like a wrathful spider to his den, and refusing to show himself.  He had discontinued the weekly gatherings at the Tabernacle, perhaps to show that the conduct of the "outside barbarians" displeased him, and that he would not be a good boy until the Federal troops were withdrawn from his realm and he was left again in power.  On the contrary, his more worldly minded or less stubborn subjects, more intent on filling their purses than battling for the interest of the Church, were in high glee at the existing state of things.  Heretofore the only means which the Saints had of acquiring money, whereby to purchase their luxuries, was from the produce sold to that portion of the California emigration which passed through their settlements, and by taking surplus cattle to California; the road to which was mainly over deserts, and for a good portion of the year blocked with snow.  Now they had a market under their very eyes, which would relieve them of all their surplus produce at prices to suit themselves, for the great army which had come to subjugate them, but which was now to benefit them, was close at hand.  Therefore, as soon as peace was established, the lucre-loving Saint might have been seen wending his way toward the great market house at Camp Floyd with his grain, his flour, his vegetables and his lumber, and coming home with his pockets lined with United States gold, and laughing in his sleeves at the bungling way in which Uncle Sam does <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:belligerents, but the little army, having been refreshed, goes on its way and in due time reaches Salt Lake City, which it finds deserted.  Having taken formal possession of the place, the army moves off to a locality where it can quietly repose itself after the exploit, it having orders to molest the Saints no <HI REND="italics">longer</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Still when we remember how the Mormons were persecuted by the people of Illinois and Missouri, we cannot wonder at the bitter feeling they bear towards Americans in general, particularly as the State authorities did so little to check the persecution.  By pitiless mobs they were the victims of murders and other outrages.  The memories of these kept alive the most bitter feelings.  Tar forms an attractive background for feathers, but for the purpose of cementing friendship between the Mormons and Western Americans it proved a dismal failure.</P>
005.sgm:<P>In regard to the people of Salt Lake City, then regarded in the East as a set of fanatical brutes, I was agreeably disappointed in them.  Though generally ignorant, they were industrious and sober.  Intelligence was generally confined to the leaders, but not altogether.  I was an uninvited listener, one evening, to an argument between a Mormon lady and a Gentile of the opposite sex.  The former was refined in appearance, and her intelligence was manifest in the way she met the arguments of her opponent.  She was the defender of the Mormon faith, inclusive of polygamy.  To see a woman among these people well dressed and intelligent was startling, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The Mormons told me that previous to the occupation of Salt Lake City by the troops, women of a certain class were unknown in the Territory; that no liquor was allowed to be sold; that gambling was not tolerated, and that the town was so peaceable that policemen were unnecessary.  Now there were nightly disorders from drunken brawls, and the morals were those of a mining camp.  The nightly scenes along East Temple Street struck terror into those of us who were "tenderfeet."</P>
005.sgm:<P>Outside of polygamy I saw nothing bad about the Mormons, and I was with them in their settlements and traveling for six weeks.  They excelled the old-time Puritans in ignorance, but not in fanaticism. It may be they put "best foot foremost" in their conduct and conversation when in our presence--I simply describe them as I found them.  A comparison between the Mormons and Gentiles I saw in Salt Lake was much at the expense of the latter.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Barring the singular people who inhabit it, Great Salt Lake is the curiosity of the Great Basin.  Its islands only are visible from the city, but from the table land back we saw its water gleaming in the sun.  In the far background arose bleak, gray mountains, the border of immense tracts of desert land extending towards California.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I give a view of the shores of this great inland sea.  It is some 130 miles in length by 75 in breadth, Salt Lake City being at its southern extremity. Its waters are intensely saltish, although most of the streams flowing in it are fresh water streams, the principal of which are the Jordan, Bear and Weber rivers.  Although the lake cannot be seen from the city, on account of the intervening bluff, the numerous islands which dot its surface are plainly visible at the distance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GREAT SALT LAKE IN THE TWILIGHT.</P>
005.sgm:of twenty miles, their bold, rugged outlines rising like a wall across the river. The largest of these, Antelope Island, was the exclusive property of the Church, which used it as a grazing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IX. Among the Mormon Settlements.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>WE staid in Salt Lake City until the 12th of November. We were paid off on the 10th.  It was optional with us whether to take our discharge at $40 per month or make the round trip at $26.  I hesitated a while, but a glance at the snowy range to the eastward, and the knowledge that the trip to the Missouri would take two of the coldest of winter months, even if we could make twenty miles a day, soon decided my course.  I would go on to California.  About half, mainly Missourians, with one or two Kansans, returned and, we heard, underwent much suffering.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our party of twenty made arrangements with some Mormon freighters, who were going to Southern California for goods, to convey themselves, provisions and baggage to the Pacific. Their charge was $80 a piece.  My wages amounted to $140, after my outfit was deducted.  Much of this was spent for needed clothing and my share of utensils and provisions for our mess. I also bought a rifle which I thought I would need, but which I had better have left, as I so much needed afterwards the money it cost.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our means of conveyance were three four-horse springless wagons, in charge of Sydney Tanner, a veteran Mormon. The other teams were owned by the drivers.  We got along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>We were to go the southern route, which leads through the lower settlements, and then takes across the Great Sandy Desert via the Santa Fe trail, emerging onto the Pacific at San Pedro, which is eight hundred miles southwest from Salt Lake.  This route is only traveled in the winter season, as it is nearly impassable during the summer on account of the extreme heat.  The northern route, which is far the shorter and more traveled of the two, strikes towards the north from Salt Lake City, along the eastern shore of the lake to its upper extremity, when it runs a westwardly course until it reaches the Humboldt River, which it follows down to its sink; it then crosses over to Carson River and enters Carson Valley, along the western edge of which lies the Sierra Nevada.  The road then crosses these mountains, and branches off in different directions towards the various mining camps. This road, which we would otherwise have traveled, was rendered unpassable by snow, so that we were under the necessity of taking the other route.  Our departure was to have taken place on the 11th, but on various accounts we did not get under way until the afternoon of the 12th, when, with twenty passengers and their accoutrements closely crammed in our rude conveyances, we gladly turned our backs upon and said farewell to the Salty City. Passing mainly over the same road which we had followed in our march from Camp Floyd, we encamped in the afternoon of the 13th inside the walls of Lehi. In the evening we were treated to a serenade from a juvenile Mormon band. Prominent among the strains of melody which they rolled out upon the still night air was "The Girl I Left Behind Me," an air which had its due effects on the minds of its rough audience, as it brought up old recollections of times gone by.  The musicians were stationed in the <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
005.sgm:, or public square, and as the music, which was extremely well executed, reached our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>We started the next morning early, and by 9 o'clock reached Battle Creek.  I here beheld my enthusiastic friend, Uncle Job, who looked very much as if he had just awakened from a week's spree.  As his blood-shot eyes did not recognize me, I did not notice him, being fearful of another affecting scene. After a half hour's halt, we retook our route; the road laying along the eastern shore of Lake Utah, the surrounding mountains of whose valley were white with snow, although it was warm enough on the plain on which we were journeying.  In the afternoon we reached Provo City, which contained a population of about fifteen hundred, and was the second city in point of size and importance in Utah.  It is built on both sides of Provo River, a few miles below the ca&ntilde;on, the mouth of which is plainly visible from here, seeming like a gigantic gateway cut through the towering mountains which rise on either side.  The winds which came howling down this ca&ntilde;on are felt to a considerable distance from where it opens on to the valley; as if some giant, with a pair of bellows in size proportionate to the undertaking, was at work with his engine back of the mountain.  As I looked upon the opening of the ca&ntilde;on, the toils and hardships which I had experienced in its depths a few days before, came vividly to my mind, and I was thankful that I had accomplished that journey, and that the one I was now entering on had so much less privation and so much more romance about it.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The Utah Indians, which abound among the Wahsatch Mountains, and which are extremely warlike, were formerly bad neighbors to the Mormons. After having attacked a settlement they would retire with their booty to the fastnesses of this ca&ntilde;on, where for a long time they defied the enraged Saints.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>We remained but a short time in Provo, when we moved on, and, following along the base of the high range of mountains which rises above the eastern limit of the valley, encamped at night at Springville, a village containing about seven hundred inhabitants and appearing quite prosperous. It had the usual quadrangular <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
005.sgm:, from the centre of which a tall pole shot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>As there was a municipal law in Spanish Fork against building open fires inside the walls, we were under the necessity of quartering ourselves on the good citizens, who were glad enough to receive us, for the reason we gave them a half-dollar apiece for our meals.  My host was the village miller--a clever man by the way--whose demands were so moderate that he had but one better half, while his neighbors' wives indulged in better thirds, fourths, and so on. I spent an agreeable evening chatting with the good people of the house, as we sat around a huge log fire which was burning brightly in the broad, old-fashioned chimney corner.  The supper was a good one, although I strongly suspected that the tea was bogus, as that commodity is so dear in Utah that the inhabitants resort to various means to counterfeit it. Coffee is imitated also; the substitutes being scorched wheat and bread-crust compounded, from which a beverage is Concocted which is not so much unlike the genuine article.</P>
005.sgm:<P>It was odd to see well constructed saw-mills, grist-mills, threshing machines and other labor-saving machinery in these out-of-the-world regions; but they are quite common. We may say as hard things as we please about the Mormons, but at the same time let us give them due credit for the enterprise and ingenuity they have displayed in the partial overcoming of the great disadvantages of soil, climate and isolation which they experience.  Under the necessity of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>We emerged from the village gate early in the morning of the 16th, and took our way over a region as desolate and dreary as that passed over the preceding day.  Our route lay through the middle of a broad, level valley, lined on either side by low mountain ranges, and we encamped towards sunset at a little, isolated ranche, situated on a small stream which wound over the level plain from its source in the contiguous mountains.  There were but two families in the settlement, which looked lonely and unprotected, and as if it would fall an easy prey to an Indian attack.  In the course of the evening we were treated to a vocal serenade by a couple of precocious Mormon boys; their song being one of the patriotic effusions gotten up by the Saints during the rebellion; and it was to these what the Marseillaise was to the French Revolutionists.  The burden of the song was an extolment of the virtues of the Mormons and their ability to crush Federal troops should they be so foolhardy as to enter their domains. Four lines of this defiant ditty ran thus:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The Yankees feared our Brigham Young,<LB>And Heber, his companion;<LB>They would have liked to crush us out,<LB>But they thought of Echo Ca&ntilde;on;"</HI>
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005.sgm:<P>-in allusion to the pretentious cobblestone fortifications which the rebels had erected in that reverberating ravine for resisting the entrance of the United States. troops into the Great Valley. The patriotic ardor with which the infantile Saints rolled forth the song was infinitely refreshing, and their efforts were highly applauded by their gentile auditory.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Passing over a country which became more uneven as we advanced, and which consisted of a continuous chain of valleys bounded on each side by elongations of the same two ranges of the Wahsatch Mountains which flank the valleys of Salt and Utah Lakes, we reached the Sevier River on the afternoon of the 18th.  This river, which is about eight rods wide, and so deep that it is hardly fordable, rises among the mountains east of our route, and, flowing through a valley so barren and cold that it is unfit for settlement, sinks about thirty miles below where we crossed it.  I have seen few sceneries more dreary than that along this river, which runs with a swift, turbid current between high, steep banks, beyond which extends a desolation-cursed tract of uneven country, covered with low, scattered clumps of wild Sage.  The Sevier was explored some years ago by a party of Mormons for the purpose of seeking some place along its shores whereon to form a settlement, but they returned unsuccessful, after having narrowly escaped being frozen to death for their trouble.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Having remained long enough to fill our water casks, we crossed the river on a narrow and unsubstantial wooden bridge, which threatened at every step to break and drop us in the rushing waters below.  We found a party of soldiers encamped on the opposite shore; being stationed there for the purpose of arresting deserters from Camp Floyd, as numbers were leaving that place nightly and starting for California by this route.  There was one of these dissatisfied sons of Mars in our company, whose love of liberty was stronger <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>We encamped after night on a cedar-covered bluff overlooking the valley, and as we had plenty of fuel we managed to keep at bay the cold night air which surrounded us, and our well-fed campfires shot out brightly into the surrounding darkness.  The cedar boughs spread on the stony ground afforded us excellent couches, and with our feet turned towards the fire, Indian fashion, we rolled up in our blankets, and slept like kings in state; the earth our bed, the star-lit sky our canopy.</P>
005.sgm:<P>There is a pleasure in camp life, which only those can appreciate who have experienced it: a freedom from all those petty cares and anxieties which beset the mind in the midst of civilization.  The soul expands and revels in a creation all its own, as it gazes upon the external world, which, if not endowed with the comforts and refinements of civilized life, is at least bare of its deceit and heartlessness, and there is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>We encamped on the evening of the 19th at the foot of a long ca&ntilde;on, and about a fourth of a mile from a stream which had a habit of sinking and rising, like many other streams of this singular country.  It was an extremely hilly region, covered with occasional groves of stunted cedars, but supporting only a scanty supply of yellow grass, which sprang up in patches between the omnipresent clumps of wild sage. The night was a very cold one, and the ground was covered with a thin coating of snow, which had fallen while we were in a more northern but less elevated locality.  We felt the cold sensibly increasing as we advanced (for the country becomes more elevated as we approach the rim of the Great Basin), and we had great difficulty to keep warm while riding in our clumsy stages, so that occasional pedestrian tours <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>One thing could be said of Fillmore City, which could be said of no other Capitol in the Union: that no intoxicating beverages were sold within its limits  There were thirty individuals in our party--men who conscientiously believed that a proper putting down of spirits was good for keeping up the spirits--and that "Mormon lightning" was an excellent article for lightening up the mind as well as the purse--and these had looked forward to the time when they would arrive in Fillmore City with as much pleasure as the sand-choked Arab gazes upon the blooming oasis in advance of him.  But lo! when they arrived in the haven of their thoughts they were doomed to bitter disappointment: for a miserable species of beer was the strongest article to be had for love or money. This and pumpkin pies were the staple productions of Fillmore, and a goodly portion of both articles was disposed of during our short sojourn in the place. We left the city about ten o'clock, and encamped at midnight in the midst of a grease-wood-covered plain, eight miles from the city. The night was cloudy and cold, and in order to protect ourselves from the force of the wind, we built a bulwark of bushes in the form of a circle, and making a good fire in the centre, we laid down, rolled up in our blankets, and endeavored to court the drowsy god; but a rain, which soon commenced falling, made our efforts vain for awhile. "Kind nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep," at length asserted its sway, and with a dreary wind blowing around me, and a driving rain soaking my blankets, I slept--as well as could be expected.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The next morning we were detained by lost horses. We saw Indians riding along the far edge of the valley and we feared they had stolen them, but the Mormons found them by noon. In the afternoon we passed an isolated house occupied by three women, doubtless the wives of the absent proprietor, some children, and an almost naked Indian. The women had repulsive faces, one of them much older than the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>At sunset we came to a new settlement, called Beaver, composed of three or four hundred people.  It had been a disappointment, as there l,ad been frosts every month in the year.  At night we went to a religious meeting held in the schoolhouse.  The congregation was rough, and rudely clad, in homespun, calico and buckskin. I saw here what reminded me of the Old-time Puritan worship: bowie knives and revolvers in church.  There was no regular minister; the services being carried on by different in embers giving in their "experience." Their language was rough and ungrammatical, and some of the narrations so comical as to set the audience to laughing. Some grew pathetic, and their hearers cried, and on the whole they enjoyed themselves.  One told how, when once afflicted with a plague of grasshoppers, prayers for deliverance were made, when flocks of a peculiar bird, strange to that country, came among them and devoured them all.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We laid up the next day for the purpose of recruiting our mules and horses, so our conductors said ; but I thought that the real reason was that the Beaver folks might get some of our gold.  Every village we passed through was formed, for the time, into a toll house, wherein we would be systematically relieved of our superfluity of evil's root.  Our Mormons, knowing the poverty of their isolated brethren, favored them all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>We were visited by a small party of Indians in the forenoon.  They came from their dens in the neighboring mountains on a begging expedition--enterprises which the sylvan stoics often engaged in--as the scarcity of game kept them in a semi-civilized state.  The Mormons satisfied their demands humbly, for should they excite their wrath, they would fare badly.  Even if the Indians did not make an attack on the settlement itself, they would make the whites feel their vengeance some other way: by running off their cattle, or by riddling them with arrows.  Besides this their long trips over the desert made them dependent on the good will of the Savages. It may be, also, that certain enterprises which the Indians and Mormons had in common, such as the massacre of the Mountain Meadows, made the latter humor their swarthy neighbors for fear they might expose them.</P>
005.sgm:<P>There were two characters among the Indians who visited us; one of whom was a chief, called "Injun Tom" by the townsfolk; the other being self-styled "Worky John."  The last could talk but little English, and offered us much sport. He would go through the motions of driving a yoke of oxen, at the same time imitating the conversation usually directed towards them by the average teamster, which made our ex-ox-drivers howl with delight.  John was almost naked when he came among us, and as a reward for his entertainment we made him up a missionary box, containing a hat, shirt and trousers.  I need not say that the hat was of the shocking bad order, and that the other articles were in tatters, for why should we be expected to donate the pick of our wardrobe to the heathen, more than other more pretentious folks. It was comical to see the Indian putting the last on--wrong side foremost and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>One thing to the credit of these Indians is their disgust of drunkenness; but, no doubt, as civilization encroaches on them they will acquire the habits of their brothers east of the mountains.  I think the Mormons were partly the cause of this, through self-interest, if from no higher motive.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our visitors left us before noon and made their way towards their dens in the mountains. They returned in the afternoon, with several squaws added--hideous beings, by the way. "Worky John" brought a harem of four, all clad in short mantles of rabbit skin.  I could have wished the rabbits in that country grew in proportion to their ears, or that the squaws attained a less altitude, though goodness knows they were squatty enough, rarely attaining a height of over four feet.  Their faces were hideous, their hair thick and matted, their breasts long and hanging to the waist--altogether they were horrid objects.  One of them had a baby hanging to her back, its form lashed in a willow frame and looking contented and sleepy, as all papooses do.  "Worky John"took great pleasure in showing his wives, at the sane time strongly hinting that presents to them were in order.  Our stock of millinery, jewelry and other articles which delight the eye of women just then being low, we were unable to satisfy his insinuations.</P>
005.sgm:<P>"Injun Tom" differed from "Worky John"in disposition, being morose and sullen.  He was dreaded by the Beaverians on account of his influence among the Utes.  A thoughtless member of our company, to note its effect, told Tom that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>One of the beauties of Mormonism had lately been exhibited in Beaver, where a girl of thirteen had just been married, or "sealed," as they termed it, to a man of forty.  The groom was a tar-maker, and to see this oddly mated couple two of our boys visited them, ordering a gallon of tar as an excuse. Having none on hand, he engaged to make some at once; but I judge he was stuck with it, as the interviewers, having gratified their curiosity, never fulfilled their contract.</P>
005.sgm:<P>In my notes I refer to the above gentleman as an "old man of forty," which goes to show what a relative term "old" is. From my then youthful standpoint he seemed well towards the foot of life's downward slope; now that I have cut my fiftieth notch on time's reckoning stick, the man of tar appears <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Under various pretexts we were kept at Beaver till the 24th. Time passed slowly, for our provisions were going fast.  We spent it lounging around our campfire, practicing with our rifles on imaginary Indians, and in making pumpkin pie raids on the Mormon huts.  We at last started on our way.  The mountains on the south we passed by a stony ca&ntilde;on, and descended to the valley of Little Salt Lake, where we encamped after dark by a brackish spring in the centre of a green meadow --a real oasis in the desert.  The next day we came in sight of the lake itself, which is fifteen miles long and embosomed in a desert valley, and has no visible outlet.</P>
005.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we reached Red Creek settlement, which was built on a plan admirably adapted for resisting Indian attacks.  An adobe wall, twenty feet high and pierced by a single gateway, enclosed an area of one hundred feet each way, and formed the rear wall for ranges of dwellings fronting on the hollow square, where cattle and other belongings could be kept at night. We reached Parowan before sunset, and camped within its walls.  This town is two hundred and fifty miles south of Salt Lake, is among the oldest of the Mormon settlements and, with one exception, the best-built town I saw in Utah. It is surrounded by a wall twelve feet high and a mile around, and the public square is enclosed by a picket fence and planted with shade trees.  Its people numbered about eight hundred.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Three of us visited one of the citizens after supper.  As we wanted to buy some provender, we were cordially met and ushered into a common room, in which there was a bed suggestively wide.  We spent an entertaining evening talking on matters not remarkably deep  While on the Utah war, of the incidents and causes of which he was profoundly ignorant, my host said, "Uncle Sam's President now, ain't he?"  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>A return caravan passed through the town that night, from which we learned that the Indians ahead were getting troublesome; a fight with some emigrants having aroused their anger.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Early on the 28th we reached the walled town of Cedar City -a half in ruins settlement. It was a sad sight to see so many dwellings, once thronged by busy inmates, going to decay; the roofs falling in, the walls crumbling.  About half the people had gone to more favored regions.  The remainder looked lonesome and owlish amid the desolation, and doubtless the town would soon be wholly deserted.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We waited several hours here for the rest of the wagons to come up.  We employed the time in laying in provisions, as this was our last chance before crossing the desert. The people were taking advantage of this to charge us extortionate prices, when Bishop Lee interfered in our behalf, so that flour fell from $12 to $6 per hundred.  This Lee was he who afterwards turned informer, and showed the connection of the Mormons and Indians with the massacre of the Mountain Meadows. Though high in the Church, he did not look much like an ecclesiastic.  He was a portly gentleman with a red face, which showed that he liked the good things of this earth, and now and then held converse with departing spirits.  He was clad in a showy suit, in which a "boiled shirt," satin vest and cloth coat shone conspicuously: so different from his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Cedar City boasted the only iron works in Utah; but they were a failure, as the ore could not be made to "flux," and no fire clay could be found to stand the required heat.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The expected teams having come up, we left the settlement. Our road laid for a mile along the large farm which was surrounded by a palisade of jagged cedar logs.  We encamped at night in a pass leading up the inner slopes of Fremont's Basin, by a little spring of sulphur, which we could hardly drink.  The night was very cold, but with a wind-break of cedar boughs and plenty of fire, we endured it until morning. We reached Panther Creek at noon: the last settlement on the great highway to California.</P>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>X. Along the Desert Border.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>A BROAD expanse of wilderness, on which there was not a civilized habitation, now lay before us; the first settlement being four hundred  miles  distant.  Visions of bleached skeletons, parched lips, stinted rations, and all the dismal belongings of desert travel, arose in my mind as we left the little settlement of Panther Creek and resumed our route up the uneven slope of the mountain.  We encamped at night on a desolate valley opening onto the Mountain Meadows.</P>
005.sgm:<P>These meadows, which we entered the morning of the 30th, are situated on the summit of the "Rim of the Basin," at the elevation of five thousand feet above the sea, and consist of a level valley a mile in width, and seven miles in length.  By the Spaniards it bore the name of Las Vegas de Santa Clara, and was the place where the great caravans bound to New Mexico from California rested to recruit their animals, famished and wearied by their toilsome journey over the Great Desert.  Our route lay down the valley over a good, well-beaten trail, and we encamped at noon by a little stream, which barely afforded enough water for ourselves and animals.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Close by our camping place occurred the notorious massacre of the Mountain Meadows, where, in the autumn of 1857, one hundred and nineteen persons were brutally murdered by a party of Indians, and Mormons disguised as such.  It was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>I was not aware at the time that the Mormons were in any way connected with the massacre, further than in burying the victims and taking care of the survivors, and with the rest of the Gentiles drank in as gospel the account of the affair given by our conductors, although I wondered at the time why they had so much aversion to talking on the subject.  I give below the Mormon version of the massacre as told me by one of our conductors:</P>
005.sgm:<P>"The emigrants, on arriving at the watering place, were visited by a party of Indians whom the former (pretending friendship towards them) invited to a large feast which they were going to have served up in the afternoon; an ox having been slaughtered for the purpose.  In order to rid themselves of the Indians, the flesh of the ox was poisoned by the Americans, as was also the water of the spring; but the Indians found out the strategem in season to prevent its effects.  They took no notice of it at the time, but at daybreak the next morning attacked the camp of the emigrants, which the latter had fortified in anticipation of an assault, and took vengeance on their enemies by murdering all but the younger children.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>In spite of the assertions of the Mormons to the contrary, there is no doubt but what they were the principal actors in this fearful tragedy, and that they were closely leagued with the Indians; else why was it that small parties of Saints were enabled to pass through a region infested by savage tribes, which boldly attacked and robbed large bodies of American Gentiles.  Bishop Lee, of Beaver, afterwards confessed to being one of the principals of the massacre, and that it was instigated by Mormon officials.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The country became more rough and uneven as we advanced.  Filling our casks at a little stream which crossed our path, we made a dry camp at nightfall, on the summit of the rim of the Great Basin.  As we were now approaching a region infested by dangerous Indians, a council of war was held in the evening, for the purpose of choosing officers, appointing guards and making regulations for the government of our company.  Sydney Tanner, an old mountaineer and veteran Mormon, was unanimously elected captain, and a gentleman who figured in the <HI REND="italics">New York Clipper</HI>
005.sgm: under the nom de <HI REND="italics">plume</HI>
005.sgm: of "Sporty" was chosen sergeant of the camp guard, which was hereafter to be mounted at night; each guard to be composed of two men, and to stand so many hours at a time. The passengers volunteered to stand camp guard, while the more difficult horse guard was to be performed by the teamsters.  A short but comprehensive address was made by the captain in regard to our intercourse with the Indians, so that collisions might be avoided, after which the meeting broke up with three loud cheers for the officers elected.  Roughly clad, sunburnt, and "bearded like the pard," we formed quite a picturesque group, as we stood encircling a huge campfire, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>I awoke in the morning with a rather peculiar sensation of moisture about my face, and, upon opening my eyes, I was made aware of the disagreeable fact that a snow-storm was raging above us and robing the face of nature, as well as my own, with a mantle of white.  The blankets and heads of our party were covered also, and it was amusing to see the sleepers as they awoke from their heavy slumbers (so heavy that they were unaware that Dame Nature in her generosity was furnishing them with an additional coverlet) and brushed the spongy element from their eyes, preparatory to gazing upon the outer world.  It was not a very agreeable predicament to be in, but we philosophically arose and shook the accumulated snow from our blankets, and stowing them in our wagons, we were soon absorbed in our breakfast-cooking operations--operations which were carried on in the face of great difficulties, for the fast falling snow, which was accompanied by rain, had a great tendency to extinguish our fires, and consequently our patience.  We were detained until near noon by the storm and the difficulty in finding our animals, which had scattered over the neighboring hills, but we at last got under way and commenced our descent of the "Rim of the Basin."  Passing down a rough road, particularly dangerous to the wagons on account of the numerous "jump-offs" we encountered, we at last reached the head waters of the Santa Clara, a stream flowing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>About half way up the side a cave was seen.  To this I ascended, and found it to be a deserted Indian home, as signs of fire were visible on the floor, and the sides of the chamber were blackened with smoke.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The morning of the second of December dawned upon us clear but cold, and a strong wind was blowing through the dreary valley.  We made an early start, and continuing down the river over a trail which offered numerous obstructions to our weary animals, by way of deep sand, rocks and bad fordings, we came upon a party of travelers encamped by a little nook on the roadside.  They were in a sorry predicament, indeed, as two of their wagons had broken down, and they would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>A little after noon we reached a point on the Santa Clara where the trail leaves it to the left, a short distance above its junction with the Rio Virgin.  The scenery along the whole of the eighteen miles which we had traveled down the valley was particularly wild and rugged, and extremely interesting to those fond of viewing nature in her roughest aspects. Rocks piled on rocks arose upon the view above a narrow, sandy valley, through the middle of which a small river was dashing and foaming on its oceanward way.  Near where we left it, a bold escarpment of rock of a bright vermillion color arose above the left bank of the river, making a pleasing variation to the sombre hue of the surrounding scenery.  Filling our water casks, we left the Santa Clara, and climbing a steep, sandy bluff we found ourselves on a desert plateau, in the centre of which arose a mountain two thousand feet in height, and covered from near its base to its summit with a thick covering of snow.  Striking across this plain in the direction of a deep gorge in the mountain, we passed, near the roadside, a singular rock, which was about twenty feet in height, length and thickness, being remarkably Square.  It lay poised upon a pile of other rocks, on to which it had rolled from a neighboring hill, on whose slope were a few more specimens of the same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>It was far into the night when we reached the summit of the mountain, around which a fierce tempest was blowing and chilling us to the bone, as with shivering limbs and chattering teeth we trudged through the snow by the side of the jaded teams.  It was near midnight when we reached a point near the foot of the ca&ntilde;on on the far side of the summit, where we encamped after a march of thirty miles, ten of which had been over the mountain.  The cutting wind still howled around our heads with unabated fury, and owing to this, together with the darkness of the night and the scarcity of fuel, we were necessitated to go to bed minus our supper, although we had eaten nothing since morning.  Our chief thoughts were as to how and where we would pass the remainder of the night. We now regretted more than ever that we had not provided ourselves with tents when starting on our journey, for it was almost unbearable to lie out in the open air on a night like this. An exploring party having found some cedars on the opposite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The tree is shown in the foreground of the next illustration, which is sketched from memory.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Traveling for fifteen miles over a plain of sand and gravel, which abounded with yuccas and other thorny plants, we halted after noon at a camping place known as the "Beaver Dam."  In the evening a party of fifty or sixty men came up with us and encamped near, intending to travel with us until the end of the journey.  We now numbered near a hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>APPROACH TO THE VALLEY OF THE RIO VIRGIN.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>We were under way a little after sunrise the next morning (4th), and crossing a tract of sandy desert, six miles in width, we came upon the valley of the Rio Virgin, and here I cast my eyes on one of the most disagreeable sceneries I saw in my trans-continental trip.  Imagine a level, sandy valley, bounded on either side by bluffs of rock and yellow sand, through the centre of which a turbid, crooked river is flowing between steep-cut banks.  Imagine the narrow plain covered at intervals with weeds and thorns, and a bright noontide sun pouring upon the glaring sands its dazzling beams, and you can judge of the impression which the sight of the valley of the Rio Virgin made upon me.  A few miles above where we struck it the river flows between precipitous rocks, which rise to the height of two thousand feet, forming a gigantic gateway, through which the muddy waters dash and foam on their way to the sandy plain beyond.  Shortly after we entered the valley we met a band of Diggers, who accompanied us for some time.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Continuing down the dreary valley, over a road filled with deep sand, through which our horses and mules wearily waded, we camped on the right shore of the river, after a journey of eighteen miles.  This camp was in New Mexico, through the northwestern part of which the trail passes.  Our evening's camp was enlivened by another cotillon, the participants of which danced to the music of a well-played violin. It was odd to hear sounds of mirth, revelry and music ascending from such a forsaken region.   As the Terpsichorean performers moved through the intricate "figures," they would occasionally stumble over the clumps of sage-brush which covered the camp, and considerable confusion was occasioned thereby.  A party of Diggers had visited our camp early in the evening.  Hearing our shouts and music, they repaired in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>While these saltatory festivities were in progress, our conductors were on nettles for fear the imprudent among us would commit some act provocative of future trouble by their familiarities with the savages.  These Indians were the best natured I met on my travels, and the only ones I ever saw enjoy a hearty laugh; but 50 changeable and treacherous were they by nature, that the least going beyond the mark by our men would anger them in a moment, and set them to concocting some scheme for our injury.  The Mormons, being the greatest probable sufferers from any misunderstanding which might arise, did their best to quietly prevent any outbreak; in fact, throughout the journey they showed remarkable tact, both in their dealings with the Indians and our own men.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Bill Bently, our deserter, owned a pup which he had bought of a Mormon at Beaver.  He was fat and sleek, but gave little promise of future worth.  A bright-looking, skeletonized dog, owned by one of our Indian visitors, took Bently's attention, and he proposed a trade, and not knowing a Digger's predilection, expected to give boot.  The Indian gave one look at the fat puppy, and with an affirmative grunt agreed to Swap, when the bargain was consummated in mutual satisfaction.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Throughout the forty miles which we traveled along the valley of the Rio Virgin, the same general features were presented: a sandy bottom of various width, bordered by square-cut bluffs which increased in height as we advanced. We used sparingly of the water of the river, which possesses deleterious qualities, as its upper tributaries are fed by poisonous springs.  We crossed the river twelve or thirteen times at rocky or quicksandy fords, where the stream was so deep that its rushing waters came up to the beds of the wagons, which were sometimes in danger of being swept down the current.  The road was a bad one the whole distance, passing over a continuous bed of deep, yielding sand, which worried our teams so badly that the passengers were obliged to make pedestrianism a profession a good portion of the way.</P>
005.sgm:<P>At sunset on the 5th we reached that point on the Rio Virgin where the Santa Fe trail leaves it and strikes southwestwardly across the Sandy Desert.  We encamped on the shore about a mile from the <HI REND="italics">mesa,</HI>
005.sgm: or plain, which here rises abruptly to the height of five hundred feet.  Hardly had we halted before the neighboring bluffs were seen alive with Diggers, who came out of their cavernous habitations in swarms to look at us.  Some descended to the valley and came running to the camp, where they greeted us with cries of " <HI REND="italics">shetcop ashendy</HI>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>A single garment was the average.  One would have a pair of pantaloons so torn that had there been a background of shirt and any street urchins in the vicinity, he would have been told there was mail matter awaiting call.  Another would have a coat split down the back like a locust shell, a third would have a shirt only, and a fourth only a hat. Some had quivers of panther skins hung over their shoulders. These were filled with arrows made of reeds and pointed with sharp flints, bound on with fine sinews.  Their bows were three or four feet long, and made either of wood or from elk-ribs neatly spliced together.  These last must have come from the East, as there is nothing larger than rabbits in this section.  Their bows are powerful, and will send an arrow through the body of an ox or horse, as passing emigrants have often learned to their sorrow.  These Indians had no fire-arms.  The head men knew our conductors well from previous intercourse, and shook hands with them quite ostentatiously; winding up with the everlasting cry of " <HI REND="italics">shetcop</HI>
005.sgm:," a word which Springs as naturally to a Digger's lips as does " <HI REND="italics">backsheesh</HI>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XI. On the Great Sandy Desert.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>WE were now on the borders of a desolate region, extending westward from three to four hundred miles; as truly a desert as the Great Sahara; a land of sand, gravel and rocks; with occasional brackish springs and streams which lost themselves awhile under the surface, again to appear; their courses, when above ground, marked by stretches of salt grass and thorny shrubs and prickly plants.  In all this domain there was not an inhabited building, not even a tent for the protection of its savage inhabitants, such as are used by the Indians of the East, for they lived in caves or flimsy hovels made from reeds and mud.  A glance eastward over the shores of the Rio Virgin showed mountain after mountain, bare and bleak, rolling backward until lost to view in the hazy distance.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The next morning we intended to have made an early start, as we had a twenty mile desert to cross before reaching water, but we were detained until ten o'clock by being unable to find one of our horses. A party of eight men, who had an outfit of their own, and who had joined us a few days previously for protection, became impatient of the delay and pushed forward, heedless of the consequences.  We watched the little party with interest as it slowly moved away from our night's encampment toward the trail which strikes the bluffs some two miles distant.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Having lost much precious time searching for the lost horse, we finally concluded that the Indians had run it off and eaten it, and resolved to push on.  Our cavalcade was two hours in ascending the bluffs.  The passengers were obliged to put their shoulders to the wheels of their respective vehicles, in aiding the panting teams up the precipitous, stony steeps which barred our progress, and we were glad when we at last stood secure on the top of the dangerous declivity, in some parts of which the slightest accident would have hurled wagon and team into defiles hundreds of feet below.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We had an extensive but not inviting prospect from our elevation of the desolate valley beneath our feet, beyond which arose a range of bleak and rugged mountains.  We did not stop long to meditate, however, but as soon as the last team was up, struck across the broad desert plateau which lay spread before us: a barren tract of sand and gravel, its apparently level outlines occasionally broken by bold, isolated mountains, which arose in dismal grandeur to the height of two thousand feet.  I say the plain was apparently level, for it was occasionally broken by yawning chasms where the earth seemed to have been rent assunder by terrific convulsions of nature.  One of these chasms, around one end of which the trail passed, was about two hundred feet in width by fifty in depth, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:and extended as far as the eye could reach.  The bottom was covered with jagged, splintered rocks, which had at one time been subjected to intense heat, and the sides, which arose perpendicularly above it, were rough and uneven and covered with sharp projections.  Gulches like this are quite common on the Great Desert, and as it is unreasonable to suppose that they have been hollowed out by floods, as rain rarely if ever falls in these regions, we are forced to conclude that the under-- <HI REND="italics">pinning</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Our road was exceedingly rough from the bed of stones which covered it, and we traveled slowly.  Late in the afternoon we were overtaken by an Indian with the missing horse, which we supposed had long since been disposed of by horse-beef appreciating Diggers and was quietly reposing in their stomachs.  But the Indians had been true to their charge, and after a long search for the missing animal had found him.  The Mormons wishing to instil into his mind the trite maxim, "Honesty is the best policy," and to further enable him at some future time to resist the temptation of converting live horse into beef, liberally rewarded the conscientious Digger with <HI REND="italics">shetcop</HI>
005.sgm:<P>It was near midnight when, having crossed the <HI REND="italics">jornado</HI>
005.sgm: " we descended a steep, sandy bluff and encamped in the midst of pitchy darkness on the shores of the Rio de los Angeles, or rather where it should be, as the river is here subterranean. We procured enough of water, however, in a marsh close at hand, but it was disagreeably brackish.  We found encamped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The morning of the 7th dawned upon us clear and bright, and found us encamped on a swampy flat abounding in salt grass, and occasionally covered with thickets of thorny bushes. We were soon visited by hosts of Indians, men, women and children; all clamorously demanding <HI REND="italics">shetcop</HI>
005.sgm:.  There were proportionally few squaws, numbers having been carried off by neighboring tribes and sold as slaves in the settlements of New Mexico. What few we saw were extremely ugly.  They were low in stature (which was mostly under four feet), thickset and waddling in their gait.  They wore scanty mantles, made by sewing several rabbit skins together, which were loosely thrown around them, in "mother Hubbard" style. Their faces were even more repulsive than those of the males, being wrinkled and brutish, and with eyes that glared like those of a beast of prey. They were abject slaves to the men, and while the latter were hanging around our fires and pestering us for <HI REND="italics">shetcop</HI>
005.sgm:, their women and children were squatted in a group by themselves: the picture of humility and abasement. Some of the squaws wore on their heads a sort of bowl made of willow branches closely woven together, which was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>These Indians were of the Pah-Utah tribe, and were similar in physical appearance and attire to their brethren of the Rio Virgin, whom they, however, excelled in impudence. As they were continually. and vociferously crying for <HI REND="italics">shetcop</HI>
005.sgm: (something to eat), and as our conductors wished particularly to gain their good will, a call was issued to our company for alms in the shape of flour for the famished Diggers.  This was made by the captain and was responded to with right good will by the different messes, so that enough of flour was raised to make three kettles of "hasty pudding."  The Diggers, in hopes that they would not be disturbed by the "Americats" in their culinary operations, repaired with their provender to a little distance from our encampment, where they built fires, and placing over them the camp-kettles filled to the brim with an uninviting mixture of flour and water, squatted around them, waiting anxiously for the decoction to come to a boiling point.  Two old and withered gentlemen, the patriarchs of the flock, were the appointed <HI REND="italics">chefs de ceremonie</HI>
005.sgm:, their business being to stir the pudding, a task they performed with becoming gravity, while their juniors looked on with mouths watering as they thought of the forthcoming feast. It was as much as the venerable cooks could do to keep the others from pitching pell-mell into the provender before it was half cooked.  As soon as it had reached the scalding notch, the famished guests made a rush, and with wild cries crowded around the mess like so many swine each one fearful of not getting his share.  Such pushing, scrambling and yelling I never beheld. Some would get their cups full of the beverage and sneak off to some locality where they could enjoy it unobserved, while others would dip their hands into the scalding contents of the kettles and lick them.with evident relish. In the uproar about as much was spilled as was eaten, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:but the Digger is by no means particular in his diet, and the mush was scratched from the earth and gobbled down, sand and all.  We were fearful that the "ladies" would fail to get their just allowance of <HI REND="italics">shetcop</HI>
005.sgm:, as their selfish lords seemed disposed to appropriate the whole amount to themselves, but we changed our opinions when we saw a cunning old squaw step quietly in and take possession of one of the camp-kettles, while the rest of the porcine group were squabbling over the others.  Returning to a safe distance with her prize, she seated herself by it, and drawing the drapery of her mantle around it, secured it from the gaze of prying eyes.  It was mirth-provoking to see the old "Diggeress," as seated by her prize, she now and then gave us a knowing look.  It was with infinite satisfaction that she at last saw the contentious crew start for a neighboring thicket, in close pursuit of two camp-kettles which two enterprising gentlemen had made bold to bear off for their exclusive benefit.  Watching her opportunity, she called up the squaws and papooses, who had long been in the background of the scene, and unveiled to the gaze of watchful eyes her "mess of pottage;" when with exceeding zest the whole party fell to work and the beverage disappeared with astonishing rapidity: the ladies with the bowl-shaped bonnets faring the best, as they could dip out a goodly portion at a time, while their less fortunate comrades were constrained to make use of the convenient goblet of Diogenes-the hollow of the hand.  The whole scene was rife with side-splitting merriment, and the performers were greeted with uproarious laughter by the compact circle of "Americats" which crowded around them, in spite of the cries of " <HI REND="italics">Piquee! Piquee</HI>
005.sgm:<P>The Pah-Utahs are the poorest and most degraded we saw of all the Indians east or west of the Rocky Mountains.  They are kept in continual subjection by the powerful tribes of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>It was near 10 o'clock before we left our interesting camping place; our route lying up a broad, sandy valley, occasionally varied by miry flats, which were white with alkaline exudations, and giving forth a sickening odor.  We at length struck the river, which was two rods in width, its tortuous bed sometimes deepening into holes of unknown depth.  Its water was impregnated with sulphur and very warm.  Crossing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:river, we stood on the edge of a " <HI REND="italics">jornado</HI>
005.sgm:," near sixty miles in width.  Filling our water casks, we left the gloomy valley of the Rio de los Angeles (river of the angels), and ascending a broad, square ca&ntilde;on, nine miles in length, and strewn with the <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
005.sgm:<P>From the time I left the prairies of Nebraska my narrative has contained so many abusive adjectives in reference to the country traversed, so much disparagement of its soil, rocks, water and vegetation, that I fear the reader will think it owed me something it would not pay, and that I was taking a means to slander it wherein it could not talk back.  But my language has been none too strong.  The blight on part of the land may have been caused by an exceptional drought; but the desolation was mainly normal; so I will let these adjectives remain propped up against their relative nouns, at the risk of bearing them over with too much support. I may have been seemingly too harsh also in my reference to my brother teamsters, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Over a region like that described our caravan slowly journeyed, after entering the limits of the Great Sandy Desert. The road was so rough from the stones, that strewed it at suitable distances for jolting our corporeal systems to pieces, that we found it about as pleasant to walk as ride in our spring-minus diligences. We halted at sun-down, when about fifteen miles on our journey, to refresh ourselves and animals with food and rest, but only for an hour, when we pushed ahead and continued on our way till midnight.  During the latter part of our march the road had been an ascending one, and our encampment was on the summit of a ridge--the culminating point of the <HI REND="italics">jornado</HI>
005.sgm:<P>We made an early start on the morning of the 8th, the sun of which shone on us through the medium of a chilling atmosphere.  Owing to the representations of our Mormon conductors, we had expected to find the weather in this region oppressively warm, and consequently many of our party had disposed of their blankets and heavy clothing in the settlements.  They now seriously felt the want of these articles, for the weather was for a good part of the time uncomfortably cold, particularly mornings and evenings.  We left our elevated camp by a gradually descending road, which passed over a country similar to that on the other side of the divide, and in twenty-five miles reached a broad, level valley, known as "Las Vegas," or the Meadows, where we arrived late in the afternoon.  Crossing the valley, which was three miles in width, we came upon the remains of a Mormon settlement. Some years ago a colony was planted here by the Saints; the intention being to form a half-way station between their colonies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:The Savages tried civilized life for a season, but soon grew disgusted with it and returned to their former modes of living; but not till after they had set on fire all the combustible material of the fort, the roofless domiciles inside of which looked cheerlessly over its gray walls.  Sad were the thoughts which the sight of this lone and dismantled fortress raised, as in silent isolation it stood on this once blooming oasis of the desert. Prowling coyotes, venomous reptile  nd those wretched imitations <illus entity="a005-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE RUINS OF LAS VEGAS</P>
005.sgm:<P>I give a sketch of these ruins, made from memory and my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Hosts of Indians came pouring in upon us on our arrival, and pertinaciously stuck to us until our departure.  They were very annoying, as, apart from their begging habits, they were inveterate thieves.  On account of their scant clothing they could not conceal their plunder about their persons, so when they got hold of a tin plate, knife or cup, they would dexterously twirl it into the neighboring reeds for future quest. I was amused in watching their doings, while with snake-like movements they secured these, their features at the same time wearing the passive appearance of professional pickpockets.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The characteristics of the Vegas Indians were similar to the savages we saw on the Rio Virgin: broad faces, snaky eyes, matted hair hanging over the forehead, and forms low in stature:  The clothing of the males mainly consisted of the castoff apparel of passing emigrants, and was scanty at most; while the garments of the squaws were composed of the skins of rabbits, which had not grown up to the proper requirements.  Their language, while resembling the Spanish intonation, came from their lips in such an idiotic way, that I can best term it a lingual slobber.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The nomenclature of the country we were passing through showed we were in what had once been Spanish territory; for all that, such mellifluous names as Santa Clara, Rio Virgin, Los Angeles, Las Animas and the like, seemed unfitted to such streams as we were meeting with, tinctured as they were with alkali until unfit for drink.  Terms like " <HI REND="italics">jornado</HI>
005.sgm:," for a day's journey, and " <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
005.sgm:," for loose stock, were going out of use, but " <HI REND="italics">corral</HI>
005.sgm:," as an enclosure, and " <HI REND="italics">ca&ntilde;on</HI>
005.sgm:," as a narrow valley, had been incorporated in our language.  The substitution of the Spanish " <HI REND="italics">si</HI>
005.sgm: " for "yes," and " <HI REND="italics">bueno</HI>
005.sgm:<P>The next morning a party of us started in advance of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>We were now reduced, by those leaving who had joined us on the Santa Clara, to the three teams and twenty passengers which left Salt Lake in company.  While more than a match for the Diggers who had lately annoyed us, we put up with their doings, dreading loss of stock. The waterless stretch reached from thirty to sixty miles sometimes, and we dreaded being left almost helpless on these desolate journeys.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We had now a thirty mile <HI REND="italics">jornado</HI>
005.sgm: to cross.  Passing over a tract of country almost entirely destitute of vegetation, and covered with beds of sand, gravel and stone, we reached late in the night the noted camping place of.Williams' Ranch. "Old Williams," a hunter celebrated for his daring exploits and recklessness, once ventured here with a drove of horses and mules which he stole from the Mexicans, and after him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The morning of the 10th came upon us clear and cold, and showed us encamped in a region exceedingly rugged and desolate.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Our Provisions now began to run short, and anxious to make them hold out as long as possible, we put ourselves upon allowance; an expedient which, by the way, was suggestive of gloomy forebodings. Upon leaving the settlements we had laid in what we thought was a sufficient quantity, but we found out our mistake when too late to remedy it, and so were obliged to do the best we could; that is, to divide our scanty supply of flour and coffee--all the articles of luxury or necessity we now possessed--into as many parts as there were days between then and the time when we calculated to arrive in San Bernardino; one part, and no more, to be devoured per day.  Our future prospects, as may be surmised, were none of the brightest at this stage of the journey, especially when we considered the many accidents which might happen to detain us on the road: such as the giving out of teams, breaking down of wagons and other causes.  We allowed for eight days' time to reach San Bernardino.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We left our elevated encampment at the "Mountain Springs" early the next morning, and passing over a rough road which lay through a scattered grove of yuccas, the repulsive aspect of which made the scenery anything but agreeable, we rolled at a brisk trot down the mountain slope.  The range which we were crossing was the rim of a gigantic basin of irregular shape and about thirty miles in diameter. Basins like this are often met with in the Great Desert. They are level beds of sand and gravel, supporting no vegetation save scattered and dwarfed specimens of sage, and surrounded by bleak and rugged mountains which afford but few passes:  Some ten miles to the north of the trail we saw the bed of an alkaline lake which was white with saleratus, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Descending this mountain and crossing a broad waste of yielding sand, we arrived in the afternoon of the 12th at the "Kingston Springs "--the western terminus of the fifty mile <HI REND="italics">jornado</HI>
005.sgm:<P>At the foot of one of the high, rocky mounds we found a portion of the skeleton of a poor wretch, who had paid the forfeit of his life in trying to accomplish the feat of crossing the Great Desert alone.  Our Mormon friends knew the history of him whose only remains were the whitened bones lying around us.  He was a man young in years but of intelligence, who from some cause became deranged.  In one of his fits of madness he mounted his horse, and leaving San Bernardino, crossed the Sierra, and alone and unprotected struck out into the bosom of the Great Desert.  The next that was heard of him was when a party of travelers found at the Kingston Springs his body pierced with arrows by the side of the fountain.  The remains had been buried, but those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OUR CAMP AT KINGSTON SPRINGS--BENTLY AND HIS DOG.</P>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XII. From the Kingston Springs to San Bernadino.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>From its peculiar appearance, Surroundings and associations, I give a sketch of the fountain known as the Kingston Springs.  The bleached skeleton, with its skull's ironic grin, the splintered rocks, the glaring sands with their repellent vegetation of cacti, thorns and the disagreeable yucca tree made a deep impression on me.  Besides, we were now beginning to feel the lack of provisions, and this brings me again to Bently and his dog.</P>
005.sgm:<P>When our provender was divided, no allotment was made for this animal, who was of good size and seemed to have been born hungry, and to have never got over this natal failing.  The dog got into thieving habits, resulting in the carrying away of some of our precious rations; his master being caught sometimes assisting him.  This, with the dislike their doings engendered in the balance of our mess, made the twain devoted to one another to a degree which, had we not been void of sentiment, would have filled us with pity and admiration.  But we were hungry and our hearts were of stone.  So two of the mess coaxed the dog from camp and shot him.  His master was disconsolate at his loss arid the rest of us wondered what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Just before sunset we resumed our march and slowly left our late desolate camping place, with its sad associations, in the distance.  Our reason for starting at this time was to avoid the Kingston Spring Indians, it being dangerous to halt among them at night.  Our Mormons reported them as of large size and differing in appearance from the Diggers generally. They rarely show themselves by day, but watch from behind the desert rocks the movements of travelers, and should they halt at night, steal or kill their stock.  The reader can hardly imagine how we dreaded the loss of animals on the waterless stretches of from thirty to sixty miles, and with what anxiety we watched them at night.  Their loss almost involved our own lives.  But by traveling much after sundown, and by the judicious treatment our conductors pursued toward the Indians, we went through safely.  Lack of pasturage was made up with rations of wheat, which for the emergencies of desert travel had been carried from the settlements.  This, however, was running short, and our teams were getting thin and weak. The alternations of yielding sand and jolting stones were trying to passengers as well as teams, as much of the way we were obliged to walk.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our road now lay over a sandy tract, the horizon occasionally broken by rocky "buttes" and sand pillars.  Not a tree was visible except an occasional yucca, which, with horizontal, outstretched arms and extended palms, seemed asking for continued curses on this already over-cursed region.  Rising to a height of twenty or more feet, with trunks a foot in diameter and of ghostly whiteness, or prone to the ground, decaying in spongy, ill-smelling masses, this nightmare of vegetation gave the landscape a weird look.  Grass there was none; but in its place there came from the sand occasional growths of thorny, repulsive plants.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Our journey was growing tiresome. We were getting low in spirits, and everything having been talked out we traveled most of the time in silence.  In our springless wagons we could not sleep, so we walked and rode alternately, listening anxiously for Indian approaches, and dreading that at any moment an arrow-pierced horse might fall.  But nothing befel us.  In the morning, at four o'clock, in pitchy darkness, we halted. The air was cold, and no fuel was to be had for warmth or cooking our scant food.  There was not a spear of grass, so instead of hoppling our horses and turning them loose we tied them to the wagons.  In prairie travel, when grass was plenty, tethering horses was practicable; but in a country like this it was not; it took so broad a range to feed each.  So there being too few teamsters to guard the animals, hopples were used to restrain them. These sometimes got loose, and, in spite of their broken-down condition, the horses would wander out of sight and cause us much vexatious delay. When there was no grass we tied them up and gave them what we could spare of wheat.  Our teams were now in such condition we were afraid they would not take us through.  Our day's march on the 12th was forty-five miles.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The morning of December 13th dawned upon us bright and clear, and found us encamped in another of these great desert basins, surrounded by ranges of barren mountains.  We broke camp early in the day and continued on our way over the sandy and stony plain in the direction of a gap in the mountain rim, which was indistinctly visible from our camping place.  In the course of the forenoon ocular evidence was manifested of our being in the modern El Dorado, for we saw gold-bearing rock scattered over the plain, although in rather limited quantities.  Before long our party was scattering over the plain "prospecting" and bringing the results of their searchings to our Mormon friends--the most of whom were versed in aurific lore, which they had acquired during a residence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The day was succeeded by a bright moon-lit evening, and as so unparalleled a race-course was at hand, we determined <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:to make use of it and have a little sport to vary the cheerlessness of our journey.  Biped nags renowned for fleetness of foot were selected from our ranks, and surrounded by their <HI REND="italics">backers</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Much of our gaiety was forced, however, and we soon settled down to the normal condition of the past few days.  Instead of a night drive, which the condition of our horses precluded, we encamped on the shores of the deceitful lake. In the moonlight of the early evening we could see the yuccas, erect or fallen, in the semblance of alert or sleeping ghosts, giving the landscape sin uncanny look.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The next morning we saw an object slowly crawling towards v across the shining bed of the lake.  What should it be but Bently's dog, like Marryatt's "Snarleyow," come back to "visit the glimpses of the moon." The twain of would-be murderers announced themselves by their looks when their victim made his appearance.  Bently's emotions were a mixture of anger and pleasure, while the poor dog wagged his tail to the forgetfulness of his wounds.  A reversion of feeling followed, and it was concluded to tolerate the superfluous member of our mess a little longer.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>At noon on the 14th we reached the Bitter Springs, the water of which was bitter enough indeed.  We found a party of traders encamped here, who were en <HI REND="italics">route</HI>
005.sgm:<P>The Mojave, which takes its rise among the snow-capped peaks of the San Bernardino Mountains, flows through a sandy valley of various widths, beneath whose surface it occasionally sinks for miles.  For the most of its course it is fringed with a belt of timber, composed of cotton-wood and willow, amongst which are thickets of thorny underbrush, whose verdant foliage contrasts pleasantly with the barren waste of sand and gravel which extends, on either hand, as far as the eye can reach.  The river emerges from its subterranean channel a short distance below where it is crossed by the Spanish trail.  Fifty miles lower down the Mojave runs plump against a rocky bluff, which tells it in unmistakable terms, "Thus far shalt thou go and no farther." The Santa Fe trail once followed the river to its sink; but the route we traveled is now preferred, it being the most direct.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Near our camp we found the head and cleanly picked bones of a horse, which had been killed and eaten by a party of destitute travelers who had left here the day before our arrival. We had not yet come to horse-beef ourselves, but we were in a fair (or rather gloomy) way for it, as we were beginning to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Travelers on short allowance are full of selfishness, some fine writing to the contrary notwithstanding.  With us there was suspicion, accusation and recrimination.  One or two were accused of stealing from the daily allowance, as we took our turns riding, when there were chances for those lacking consciences to purloin the bread, which was all we had and which we would bake to last twenty-four hours. The most pitiable sight was Bently and his dog.  There was but little sentiment about me; but when I saw the master secretly getting food for his pet, I had a feeling which prevented me from interfering.  I believe Bently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Our route now lay in a westerly direCtion along the sunken waters of the Mojave.  The scenery was uninteresting, as nothing met our gaze save the sandy valley with its barren, rugged boundaries of rocky hills, and the narrow belt of timber traversing it.  On the 16th we came in sight of the long-wished-for Sierra Nevada, whose eternally snow-clad summits had loomed up before me ever since I left Salt Lake City.  We at last came to where the river flows above the surface of the valley. It was here two rods wide and as many feet in depth.  Shortly after nightfall we camped by a little grocery, the first inhabited house we had seen since leaving the Mormon settlement, four hundred miles distant.  Here a portion of our company left us on foot for the next settlement, which was thirty miles further on, going by a near cut across the mountains which the wagons could not travel.  These individuals had entirely run out of provisions, and as they could not wait until the caravan reached the settlement, they had formed the design of going on foot in advance of us.  It was about 10 o'clock when they left us.  We watched the progress of the little band with interest as it waded the river, and at a quick pace plunged into the darkness beyond.  They were starting on a dangerous expedition, for the route was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The Southern Pacific Railroad follows the course of the Mojave--pronounced <HI REND="italics">Mohavey</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Leaving this stream to our right, we proceeded the next morning over a gradually ascending road, which led to the summit of a precipitous range of hills running parallel to the main Sierra.  Along the top of a slanting ridge, whose precipitous sides led down to dangerous defiles, we descended to the head of the Cajon Pass of the Sierra Nevada.  This ridge, which we christened the "Devil's Back-bone," arose at an angle of forty-five degrees, and on account of its numerous <HI REND="italics">vertebra</HI>
005.sgm: was dangerous to our wagons.  The yucca, which had not intruded its disagreeable presence upon us for several days, made its appearance on the surrounding hills, its repulsive form rising to the height of twenty feet, with its white trunk, and leaves like daggers.  We encamped after night in the upper end of the Cajon Pass, in a locality badly infested by grizzlies, the whereabouts of which were made manifest by the restlessness of our animals, which were neighing, braying and scampering hither and thither throughout the night.  We spent the evening in polishing up the outer man preparatory to again making our entrance to a civilized region and among a civilized people, as we expected to reach San Bernardino the next day.  Razors, scissors and soap were freely administered to portions of the human form sadly needing them, and these were soon followed by a change to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The morning of the 18th saw us on our road early.  The trail leading along the bottom of the rugged pass was an exceedingly rough one, lying over beds of rock and stone, and sometimes in the channel of the stream which it often crossed.  The ca&ntilde;on at length opened into a valley a mile in width, which was thickly sown with thorny plants, among which the prickly pear, a branch of the cactus family, held a prominent place.  This plant here grew to the height of two feet, with oval-shaped leaves an inch in thickness and thickly covered with sharp thorns.  It bears a bell-shaped fruit, encased in a purple bulb, which, when ripe, is very agreeable to the taste, although its surroundings are so full of minute, barbed thorns, which penetrate the lips, tongue and hands of the eater, that there is far more pain than pleasure in eating them.  Winding through a thorny chaparral and over beds of yielding sand, we continued down the widening pass, which at length opened into the valley of San Bernardino.  Descending a gradually sloping bluff, with our teams at full speed, we reached the level plain stretching beyond; and passing by the side of fields now green with the starting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>This town is situated near the southern extremity of the valley of the same name and a few miles from the foot of a lofty Sierra.  The origin of this city is as follows: Shortly after the settlement of Great Salt Lake was founded, a company of Mormons emigrated to California, then a Mexican province, for the purpose of selecting a place whereon to found a colony, as the climate and soil of that region were deemed vastly superior to those of Utah.  These pioneers bought a tract of land in the southern end of San Bernardino Valley, for which the sum of $70,000 was paid; and emigration soon flocking thither, a flourishing colony was founded.  This settlement Brigham Young, by an arrangement of his own, incorporated into Utah Territory, which he extended to the Pacific.  This arrangement, however, could not stand, and soon after the Mexican war San Bernardino became a portion of the Golden State, much to the disgust of the Prophet, to whom California was a great eye-sore.  The settlement continued thriving until the autumn of 1857, when all true believers were summoned to repair immediately to Utah, in order to resist the ingress of the Federal troops, who were now on their way to Utah.  The majority obeyed the summons, and selling their property for what they could get, removed to Utah, while the remainder, setting at defiance the thunders of excommunication hurled at them by the head of the Church, resolved to remain.  These backsliders were called "Apostates" by their zeal-blinded brethren, who entertained feelings of the greatest contempt towards them.  Several of the Mormons of our party had been residents of San Bernardino, and these spoke to us Gentiles in terms of undisguised disgust of those of their fellow colonists who were not devoted enough to the cause of Polygamy to take up the cross and follow them to the realm of Brigham.  But even if the Mormons had not left when they did, they would soon have been routed out by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Several Americans now lived in San Bernardino; but its population had greatly decreased since the time when Mormonism sat enthroned there, and tenantless houses gaped sadly through unglazed windows at the few strangers who visited the city.  The whole place, which contained six or eight hundred inhabitants, had a tumble-down look; and the fact of the public business of the city being in the hands of Jews, did not tend to make San Bernardino prosper.  The signs on the few business places gave the town somewhat of a foreign air:  <HI REND="italics">Tienda Barata</HI>
005.sgm:<P>And now in regard to the condition of our party of twenty, who left Salt Lake six weeks before in such good heart.  A part had spent all their money, and those who had not, kept the information for private use.  Owing to reasons mentioned, we were all glad to get to our journey's end and matterless how soon we parted company.  Our discordant mess passed its last night on the floor of an old adobe house; one of the many deserted ones of that luckless town, bare of furniture and cheerless in the extreme.  In spite of temptations and theft our provisions had held out, though we often went hungry to accomplish this end.  We were now to scatter, we knew not where.  Taking our party as a whole, we were about a fair average of the thousands of ox-drivers who crossed the plains in 1858, and that is not giving them a very high place.  The best of these was John Galdie, familiarly known as "Scottie," a quiet fellow, who shared my fortunes much of the time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>As little as I regretted leaving my messmates, who, I admit, had some good traits woven amid their failings, I felt low-spirited when getting ready to leave San Bernardino.</P>
005.sgm:<P>It is true I had got to California, but I did not know what to do now that I was there, for I was unacquainted with a person along the Pacific Coast.  To find work I must get to the northern part of the State, and to reach there required money. When I contracted with the Mormons for my passage I did not think I would be left ninety miles from the coast.  Inquiry developed the fact that the steamer plying between San Pedro and San Francisco only ran every twenty days, that its first trip would be on the 23d, and that the fare in the steerage would be $20.  Two gold pieces amounting to that was all the money I possessed. I had barely time to reach the coast on foot.  Should I miss the steamer, what would I do? So I resolved to start at once.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Speaking in the proper sense, my "California Tramp" began at San Bernardino, for heretofore I was either a walking member of an organized body, or alternately walking and riding with the Mormon wagoners.  Now I was taking the road in earnest. Here we, who had so long traveled together, separated, some to stay in the town, while those who went on so straggled that there was no comradeship among them.  I parted with them with no regret. I don't say but what some of them were good in their way, and that I have seen worse people--in jail; but when I look back on that party, at the end of thirty years, I wonder how I could travel with it for over five months.  I suppose it was because I could do no better. It was between the "devil and the deep sea."  On the one hand was the desert or prairie with its cruel Indians and wild beasts, on the other our "goodlie companie."  As the least evil, I was justified in clinging to the last.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIII. To Pueblo de Los Angeles.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>To start for the City of Angels on foot was, indeed, a prosaic way of traveling.  The steed of Pegasus would have been none too good as a mode of transit to so poetically named a town; but there being no such animal then at livery in San Bernardino, and having not the wherewithal to hire him had there been, I was fain to mount the hack traditionally under the ownership of one Shank and start on my journey.  This being without money and without price, I was soon ready for my seaward tramp.</P>
005.sgm:<P>To say that I made a prepossessing appearance would be wrong.  I did not resemble the "Views afoot" tourist with his trim suit, his neat knapsack and staff. The most of my worldly goods were in an old carpet-bag, the counterpart of which is only seen nowadays in the hand of bucolic strangers in the city, or on the comic stage.  In addition there was a pair of boots as hard as the adamantine heart of Pharoah, and so tight I could only wear them "turn about" with a pair of thin Indian moccasons. They had clung to me with a Damon-and-Pythias-like tenacity, or like "The Old Man of the Sea" to his victim, and were a part of my monthly hire in Michigan.  I had borne their infelicities to Salt Lake, when a Mormon cobbler put $2.00 expense on them, after which I could not afford <illus entity="a005-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARCHING TO THE SEA.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>And now with this rifle on my shoulder, my carpet-bag and boots suspended back of the muzzle, the rest of my "duds" otherwise disposed of, and the clothing I wore rent and stained with weeks of open-air travel and lying on the ground, the reader, gentle or otherwise, can imagine my appearance when starting on my tramp, and can be assured I did not improve on further acquaintance during my search for work.  I suppose I was about an average example of most of the tramps seen on Eastern highways when that class of nomads are in season, except that here my rifle and knife would have lent an additional terror.  Of course I wore a belt, to take up or let out as hunger waxed or waned, to which was suspended the above knife.  Although this last was in shape piratical, and gleaming with German silver, I am glad to say it was never designed for anything but uses culinary.</P>
005.sgm:<P>This much for externals.  Mentally, were cerebral exposure possible, I would not have shown up much better.  Worriment as to what would be my future, thus cast adrift, put my spirits down towards the zero bulb to keep company with my finances.  Besides, the journey ahead was long and lonely, hardly relieved by the grand view of the Sierras, and thoughts of the new scenes I was entering in a country whose romance had not yet been smothered by progress, and which was punctuated with towns, valleys and mountains full of wildness <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:and feudalism, and accented with sonorous Castilian nomenclature.  Now, such names as Dog Gulch, Grass Valley and Rogue River are taking the place of the sweet names of a language which could make the most effective oaths sound as lover's mouthings. Even these are being drowned by Yankee substitutes, and the mellifluous " <HI REND="italics">carambas," "carajos," "cozedos"</HI>
005.sgm: and " <HI REND="italics">sacramentos</HI>
005.sgm:," which to me never sounded more harmful from the tongue of a Mexican than "Dear me" and "Oh! my" from an emotional Eastern woman, are disused by the vile objurgations of the "Americanos."  In those days the Mexican "geed" and "hawed" his oxen in Spanish, and "got them up" and "whoaed" them similarly; now his " <HI REND="italics">anda</HI>
005.sgm:," his " <HI REND="italics">circo</HI>
005.sgm:<P>As to the appearance of the country I was to travel over, it was like this; for although a score and a half of years have elapsed since I was there, it is now plainly before me: Northward stretched, as far as the eye could reach, a nearly level plain, the first part bare of green vegetation and for some distance covered with a chaparral of sage-brush higher than one's head.  Beyond the soil grew better, and forty miles from my starting point was green with pasture.  The first settlement was twenty-two miles on the road, and after awhile the plain was dotted at intervals of four or five miles with the white walls of ranche buildings.  The right of the vista was flanked by a range of the Sierra Nevada as far as I could see; the mountain rising abruptly for thousands of feet, the upper part white with snow.  Ten to fifteen miles off to the left a low range of hills bounded the valley, and westward the plain extended to the Pacific, some thirty miles away.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I started about 10 o'clock on the 19th of December, 1858. I cannot say I had no company, for on the road for miles our party was scattered; at long intervals, of course, for there would not be more than two or three in sight at once.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>My route for awhile lay over the low plain in which San Bernardino is built, amidst fields long since shorn of their harvests, and through scattered thickets which the frost had robbed of their foliage.  The day was warm and my load heavy, so I was forced to do as some of my predecessors were doing, cast my superfluous clothing along the road, without hope of it returning in days many or few.  Having thus unburdened myself as much as I dared, I went on with a lighter load, but not a lighter heart, for if ever I had what are known as the "dumps," it was when I started on my "march to the sea."  I soon reached the shores of a stream which waters this valley, and crossing it climbed a bluff and found myself on a bleak plain.  I was now on the beginning of a waterless stretch of twenty miles, and as it was well on towards noon I had small prospect of making the end of the journey before night.  In spite of the reduction I had made in my load it was still heavy, and I was glad when, six miles on my way, I met a horseman whom I persuaded to buy my rifle.  I let him have it, with the ammunition belonging, for five dollars-- one-fourth of what it cost.  This was a godsend, for all I had before was the two eagles I had saved and kept from the knowledge of my companions for my passage to San Francisco. The reason I did not take my comrades into my confidence was that I feared some might want to "borrow"them.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The trail soon led into a spreading chaparral, a thicket of gnarled sage-brush, repulsive from a fire which had lately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The day was waning and night came on long before I got to the stream where I was to pass the night.  Mindless of the saline fate of Lot's wife, I turned to look back and saw the most beautiful sight. imaginable--sunset on Mount San Bernardino. It seemed as if the sun, with his shadowy lever and the horizon for a fulcrum, was slowly forcing the light of day heavenward; the last rays gathering around the summit of that peak of the Sierras.  The gleaming white changed into the most beautiful purple and gold, and the mountain top remained thus invested for some time after twilight had mantled the plain below.  The mellow tints grew darker as the sun, in his Archimedean role, bore down his end of the lever, lower and lower, till, with an imaginable hiss, he plunged into the sea; while the other extremity of the phantasmal seesaw climbed the summit and drove to the cold upper air the last lingering rays of light. I stopped longer than I could afford to look on this sight. The thickening gloom warned me to go on, and with a sigh I retook my weary way over the lonely valley.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I had not gone far into the darkness before I heard the distant yelping of wolves from the direction of the chaparral. Those who have heard these demon-dogs know their bloodcurdling howls; those who have not may be thankful.  I was familiar with them on the plains, but I was not alone then; now their fiend-like voices gave me the shivers, and I hurried on, hoping to overtake company.  I soon found wolves were not the only animals I had to fear, for I was getting on to a range of wild cattle--wild in the sense of running at will, though under ownership by the neighboring rancheros.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:large herd of these animals galloped across the trail just behind me, and I believe that I would have been trampled to death had I been a little later.  I now hurried faster, and soon my suspense was ended by the sight of a fire.  This was at the stopping place I spoke of, and here I found a few of our men.  Just beyond was a stream of water, where I slaked my thirst for the first time in twenty miles.  I found I was by the side of some ranch buildings, which were shown by the reflection of a fire in front, around which some Mexicans, who looked like brigands, were toasting their feet, their " <HI REND="italics">serapes</HI>
005.sgm: " drawn around their shoulders, chattering away with the inevitable " <HI REND="italics">cigarillos</HI>
005.sgm:<P>In spite of this feeling, as ! trudged along my halting feet involuntarily kept step to a Sing-Song music, called up by the names of some of the prominent objects which were being brought before me.  Most people who were school children in 1850 will remember the "singing geography schools" that spread like an epidemic over the land.  They were at first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The country improved as I advanced, and occasional bands of cattle and horses I met showed improved pasturage.  Eight miles from my starting place and thirty from St. Bernardino I came to another ranch--the half-way place between Los Angeles and the last town.  Here I got something to eat, and stopped long enough to take some mental notes of the place. The houses were of one story and surrounded a courtyard, which was filled with a motley assemblage of people of all sizes, ages and colors.  These were the retainers of the proprietor of the ranch, as the rich Dons who lived in this valley had a goodly number of vassals under them.  These hangers-on were little better than slaves, but they led an easy life and were contented.  Herding cattle and cultivating a little ground to raise the grain and vegetables required, was all they did.  The former was done on horseback and was more in the nature of sport than otherwise.  One side of the courtyard was strewn with saddles, bridles and lassoes and the rest of the articles a Mexican horseman needs.  Large dogs of villainous appearance stalked amid their biped comrades, and paid me such attention that I was fain to leave.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Wealthy Mexicans living on large grants deeded to them by their government were then common in Southern California, and they resisted the invasion of their Yankee neighbors upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The main <HI REND="italics">forte</HI>
005.sgm: of the Mexican is his horsemanship.  Such headlong riders I never saw; always on the full jump, they sit their saddles firmly and defy the efforts of their wild animals to throw them.  With their lassos they perform wonders. With practiced skill the plaited leathern rope is thrown at full gallop, and a wild bull or horse is floundering in the dust.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The common answer of a Mexican to a question is " <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
005.sgm:?" (who knows?). This saves trouble and is not misleading, for you at least know as much as you did before.  So when I questioned a Mexican, who was standing at the door of the courtyard, ready for a mount and clad in semi-bandit costume, broad-rimmed " <HI REND="italics">sombrero," "serape</HI>
005.sgm:<P>On the whole of the sixty miles of road from San Bernardino to Los Angeles I did not see a single vehicle in motion, nor horsemen, except the " <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Amid the Scenes described I slowly wended my way over the gravelly plains and beneath the rays of a warm sun.  My feet were now blistered to a painful extent, and sweltering under the weight of my yet heavy load, I sickened at the thought of the many leagues which lay between me and the next stopping place, which was thirty miles from where I passed the night.  Besides, I was chronically hungry and would get no water till night, except by making long <HI REND="italics">detours</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Night was approaching, and in company with two or three brother stragglers I hurried on for El Monte, but darkness overtook us before we arrived.  The sight of lights in the distance quickened our steps, for we knew we were nearing the end of our journey.  Crossing the dry, sandy bed of a narrow river we ascended a bluff and found ourselves in the dark street of a village. Getting a drink at the first house we came to we hunted up a place to stop all night.  We found a sort of a hotel, and before an open fire in the bar-room rested awhile. Then we went out to supper. This was spread on a table, and we had benches to sit on and knives and forks to eat with. To <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FIELD OF CACTI.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Greatly refreshed by my night's rest on the floor I was on my way early the next morning.  Passing through the streets of the village, between vine-embowered gardens and scattered shade trees, which looked refreshing to eyes So long used to desert scenery, I emerged to a valley, the most beautiful I ever saw.  I was now on the western boundary of the great plain I had been traveling over since leaving San Bernardino, which here arose in sweeping billows as it neared the range of hills on the west.  Hitherto it had been semi-desert, naturally so or from drought, but now a covering of herbage, vividly green, spread over the plain from hills to mountains. Pasturing on this were flocks and herds which filled the air with neighing, lowing and bleating.  All that was needed were shepherds and tuneful pipes to make this a veritable Arcadia, in which mortals might lead a life of peaceful happiness, undisturbed by the turmoil of the outer world.  Near the centre of the valley arose the white walls of a village which gleamed brightly in the rays of the morning sun. Beyond was the mountain, green at the base, and changing to gray and brown as the outlines climbed upwards.  Then came patches of snow, and finally an unsullied sheet of whiteness which spread upward and clothed the summit thousands of feet above the plain.  Long had I journeyed amid scenes of awful desolation, over black and rugged mountains, amid sandy deserts and by the shores of poisonous creeks and rivers, and now that I had passed all these and reached the borders of civilization, it was infinitely refreshing to look on such a picture as was now spread before me.  With my imagination <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Passing through a range of green hills by a winding ca&ntilde;on I came on to a broad plain which extended to the ocean. I was now nearing Los Angeles, and traveling for a while along the foot of a range of hills, I turned to the west and soon came in sight of the "City of Angels," whose white walls gleamed in the noon-day sun.</P>
005.sgm:<P>NOTE.--The valley extending eastward from San Bernardino, which I found so thinly settled and rarely traveled over, is now traversed by a railroad, along which are many towns.  Speculation is rife there in town-lots and suburban lands. San Bernardino itself has a population of six thousand.  The name of the mount itself has been vulgarized to "Old Baldy."</P>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIV. From Los Angeles to San Francisco</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>THE Southern half of California was then but sparsely populated; what few large settlements there were being near the coast and from fifty to one hundred miles apart.  Among these Los Angeles ranked the largest, and still stands highest in importance, both on account of its size and age.  One of the first colonies planted by the Mexicans in California was located here, the site being chosen on account of the climate and fertile soil.  It grew fast and became the capital of Upper California.  It is built on the shores of the Los Angeles River, near the foot of a range of mountains which extend in rugged outlines to the Pacific, which at the port of San Pedro is thirty miles distant.  The architecture of the city is varied, ranging from one-story adobe houses to large brick stores built by the invading Yankee. At that time the place was distinctly Mexican, the American and his style of building being exceptional.  The streets presented a strange appearance in the old part of the town. The houses were of sun-dried bricks, and the common ones roofed with reeds and grass, over which was poured a coating of bitumen, from springs of that material near by.  In hot weather this melted, and running down the walls gave them a variegated look.  Some of the houses extended in large one-story ranges, at intervals pierced by gateways opening to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>I spent the afternoon of my arrival looking around the town, in the busy centre, the quiet suburbs, and along the shore of the little river flowing by.  In the water of this I saw a score of washerwomen with bare feet and in short skirts, pounding the dirt from soiled clothing by means of clubs as it lay in the water.  I loitered about the stores, watching the swarthy customers ride up and remain mounted till their purchases were delivered to them, when they would gallop away.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I am speaking of the Puebla of thirty years ago, before it was, as now, a distinctively American town, the Mexican portion a curiosity merely, and speculation wild, and building lots selling at inflated prices.  Now a railroad runs by the town and the screech of the locomotive has frightened the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>In imagination Los Angeles had been a city of my love.  I had read of its beautiful women, its gallant men and its pious priests, who had sacrificed so much for the salvation of the Indians, and a visit to the town made a great impression on me. If I could have shut the innovation of the Yankee quarter from my sight, I might have imagined myself in a town of La Mancha, the tropical courtyards, the horsemen, barbaric in their costume, the water nymphs in the river, and strings of donkeys with their wild drivers to keep up the illusion.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I would have seen more of Los Angeles, its old Mission and other points of interest, but I was so tired and footsore that I was satisfied to rest and prepare for my seaward tramp. So the rest of the day I sat at the corners of the streets, in the old part of the town, and watched the passers-by: Much of the "shopping" here was done on horseback.  Buyers from neighboring ranches would gallop in, and suddenly halting before a <HI REND="italics">tienda barata</HI>
005.sgm:, or "cheap store"--as elsewhere, the stores here were all <HI REND="italics">tiendas baratas</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Throughout the day scattered parties of the adventurers who had started from Salt Lake with such high hopes of the future came straggling into the town, hungry, tired and out of spirits. The first comers got all the situations procurable, while the main part of the adventurers met with disappointment.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Shortly after sunset I left Los Angeles, and with one of my fellow ox-drivers of the plains began a night's march for San Pedro, thirty miles away.  At this time I can hardly say why I started at that hour, but either because it was pleasanter traveling by night than by day, or for fear of missing the steamer, or to save the cost of a night's lodging.  I think for the latter reason, as the five dollar gold piece I got for my rifle was broken up and the fragments so reduced, that I had barely enough for my expenses to San Francisco, independent of my passage money, which I would not touch.  My companion was "Dutch Joe," he of the profane tongue and reckless disposition; but the poor fellow was dead broke now and I pitied him.  He had been a Mississippi steamboat man, and was calculating to "beat" his way up the coast after he once got on the steamer.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Passing through a street lined with gardens of orange, fig and other semi-tropical trees, and bordered with hedges of willow and long extensions of grape-trellises, we left the City of Angels.  Had we the wisdom we afterward possessed, we would have known these picturesque roadside borders were screens for expert throwers of the lasso, who practiced on travelers their noted skill and choked and robbed them; and that the sterile pampas beyond was the haunt of picturesque bandits <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:who annexed murder to their other crimes; Americans and Spaniards being treated impartially.  We soon found ourselves on a bleak plain, at the commencement of a lonely journey. As the twilight deepened a depressing stillness came around us, which was at intervals broken by the barking of dogs of distant ranches, or the fainter heard howls of wolves on the Sierra Madra Mountains.  Overhead the stars shone brightly, <illus entity="a005-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE WINE TEAM.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I much regret for the reader's comfort that I have not a few pleasant episodes and reminiscences to string on the thread of my narrative; but I have not, and must note down things as they came to me, only too glad that all came out right in the end.</P>
005.sgm:<P>"Dutch Joe" and I exchanged few words as we plodded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>About 10 o'clock, through the darkness, we heard the creaking of wheels, the crack of a whip and the familiar talk indulged in by an ox-driver to his team.  We soon caught up with an ox-drawn wagon on which was a cask of wine so large that in the dim light it looked as big as the "Heidelberg tun."  This was in transit to the coast.  The driver was companionable, and for a couple of hours we shared his talk with his oxen.  The wine he was hauling was from a vineyard near Los Angeles, and was on its road to San Fransisco, whence it would go to France, thence to New York, where it would masquerade as <HI REND="italics">Veuve Cliquot</HI>
005.sgm:<P>The night air was getting colder, and my blistered feet prevented me walking fast enough to keep warm.  I often wished for the overcoat I had thrown away the day before. About midnight we came across a party of travelers who were seated around a fire, and with their permission we sat with them awhile and tried to warm ourselves.  We left in an hour, and saying good-bye to our friend the teamster, as well as to Tom and Jerry, his wheelers, and Bill and Barney, his leading oxen--for I heard their names often enough to remember them in connection with threats and entreaties more or less profane --went on our way alone.  The wind blew colder and colder, and towards morning we were glad to seek the shelter a friendly bluff afforded, when we built a fire with some coarse weeds and brush we found.  With smoke-enforced tears we shivered here until daybreak, when against a wind like a tempest we resumed our way.</P>
005.sgm:<P>A peculiar noise now broke upon our ears, which we rightly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>I could have gone into more extensive raptures over my first sight of the Pacific had I been in a better position to appreciate it.  We have heard of Balboa's feelings, when from a "lone peak of Darien" he first glimpsed the same sea; but if he had walked all night lugging a pair of blankets and an unseemly carpet-bag, with nothing to drink and little to eat, and, from wearing tight boots, with blisters on his ankles as big as the quarter-dollars his purse lacked, he would have felt about as I felt. Still I must admit to a thrill of admiration as from the far sea line I saw the waves roll in and lash the miniature "lone peak" on which I stood.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I had struck the coast line at a point on the Bay of San Pedro which was too shallow for anchorage, but which is now near the site of Wilmington, a settlement which has blotted the "town" of San Pedro off the map.  I have lately seen a photograph of this part of the Bay, and the sight of the railroad tracks laid under the bluff, the cars thereon, and the piles of lumber and the warehouses, so contrast with the place as I saw it, that I give an illustration of the landing place of 1858.  On account of the dangers of this harbor a breakwater has been built to accommodate the increased commerce which the growth of Los Angeles has brought here.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Readers of Dana's "Two Years before the Mast" will remember San Pedro Bay as the scene of the flogging and of innumerable hardships of loading and unloading cargoes.  I have often experienced a fellow feeling for the author, as each of our experiences on the California coast developed about the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>There were but two vessels in the harbor; one the "Senator," which was to take us northward, and which I was pleased to <illus entity="a005-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN PEDRO IN 1858.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The island in the illustration is known as "Dead Man's Rock."  Here, over twenty years before, a master of a vessel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>We passed nearly the whole day on the shore of this dreary place, sunning ourselves as best we could to keep warm, and dozing away the past night's sleeplessness.  How I wanted to get away from here can only be known by those who have been at this desolate port and seen its forbidding shore, with its bleak mountain background, the miserable adobe buildings and the island with its lonely grave,wind-swept, and with screaming sea birds circling around it. "Dutch Joe" and I appeared to be the advance guard of our party. The rest, a dozen or so, came straggling in through the day, tired, footsore and hungry.  Some of them, who had spent their money, were forlorn looking indeed.  To make matters worse, we were hungry and thirsty.  Expecting to go directly on board the steamer, we had brought nothing to eat, and water was not procurable here, it being literally a "dry town."  How such a forsaken place as San Pedro could be the port of a town like Los Angeles, which then had from 15,000 to 20,000 inhabitants, I am at a loss to say.  Querulous and weary we spent the time watching the waves rolling in, the sea birds skimming over the water and diving below, and the freight in its tedious transit to the "Senator" from the rickety wharf.  Among the latter was the cask of wine of our midnight friend, which came down the steep road leading to the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Our resting place was at the foot of the bluff, up whose steep sides Dana and his fellow-sailors of the "Pilgrim," in 1837, carried boxes and bales of freight to the ox-carts waiting above, and down whose declivities they threw the rolls of hides taken in exchange, and which were carried on the heads of sailors to the boats.  A wharf now ran a short distance out from shore, but the port accommodations were still very rude.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>We were not allowed to go on board the "Senator" till near Sun-down.  A rope had been run ashore, and back and forward along this a lighter was pulled till the passengers were on board, the freight having been previously loaded.  There was a heavy swell on the bay, although the wind had gone down, and I was afraid awhile our rude craft would Swamp; but we finally reached the steamer.  As the two vessels did not go up and down together, there was some difficulty in getting on board, but with the aid of the down-reaching arms of the sailors we climbed the deck.  The "Senator" was on her up trip from San Diego, and for passengers had a motley crowd of dignified Spanish gentlemen, pompous army officers, enterprising Yankee merchants and adventurers of all kinds, seeking a change of scene.  I was tired and, having slept none since leaving El Monte, crawled into a rude berth in the steerage and was soon forgetting everything in a deep sleep. When I awoke I found the "Senator" had up anchored and was plowing her way through the darkness, and also that I had missed my Supper.  However, as the charge was high I was not sorry, as I had saved that much.</P>
005.sgm:<P>That night the Pacific Ocean belied its name.  I know of the propensity of travelers who to sea in ships go down to narrate remarkable experiences.  They have the quickest or most tedious of voyages from port to port, the most terrible storms and the most quiescent calms. The vessel in question is at the "mercy of waves rolling mountains high," or is a "painted ship upon a painted ocean." Before the storm they note the anxious look of the captain, as he scans the barometer, and the talks among the sailors, who, in hushed voices, tell how they heard the ship's cat give an ominous note of warning the night before, or how the ghost of Tom Bowline, who was lost at sea last trip, appeared to the cabin boy about midnight and gave vent to an expression of similar import.  The storm safely over, they hear master and men say they never had such nautical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>So to be in fashion I will tell how the "Senator" rolled and pitched as she sped on through the darkness; how she would mount the waves as if bent on a trip to the moon; how she would give a roll as if intent on spilling her freight and passengers into the sea, and then how we held our breaths when the prow swiftly came down.  I will tell how the timbers groaned, the sails flapped; how the wind whistled through the cordage and the way the captain bawled and the sailors swore, and how the passengers wished they were home. It was my first experience on the ocean and I thought then we had a rough voyage, but I suppose there was nothing unusual about it.  As to the sea-sickness of the passengers I will say nothing; such descriptions are not agreeable. We were nearly two days making the trip, a time of much discomfort to us in the steerage.  We stopped at Santa Barbara and Monterey, but between fog and darkness we saw but little of them.  During the prevalence of certain winds they are dangerous places to stop at, and as this was the case now we hurried away from both ports.  On the afternoon of Christmas Day we arrived in front of the Golden Gate, whose northern post is Punta Bonita, or Pretty Point; whose southern is Punta de los Lobos, or Wolves' Point.  My impression had been that the entrance was between two acute headlands, beyond which the Bay of San Francisco expanded, which was erroneous.  The passage is five or six miles long, with rugged hills as high as two thousand feet on the north, while those on the south arc three or four hundred feet in elevation.  The channel is from one to two miles wide.  The seaward boundaries of this were bare and repulsive, but as we steamed inland the shores and islands were green and pleasant to look upon.  Bearing southward we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Even when stepping from palace cars to hotel coaches and <illus entity="a005-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ENTRANCE TO THE GOLDEN GATE.</P>
005.sgm:with money in abundance, a traveler experiences peculiar sensations when entering a large city, knowing that among "the whole cityful, friends he has none."  How he would feel after the discomforts of a steerage voyage, and but twenty cents in his pocket, would be still more peculiar.  I know that when the steamer was fastened to the wharf and preparations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The word being given, a rush was made for the gang-plank by the passengers, who, weary of confinement, were glad to leave their ocean home of the two past days.  They were welcomed by a motley crowd of cab drivers, hotel runners, young porters, news boys and boot-blacks, who ostentatiously met them as they poured from the decks of the "Senator." Forcing my way through the obstreperous gang, I at last reached the wharf-gates, and passing these I trod the streets of San Francisco--I was almost ready to Say, "A stranger in a strange land," but the expression has been used so often I spare the reader its reiteration, and simply say--feeling like a "cat in a strange garret," with a scarcity of mice.</P>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XV. On the Tramp.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>AFTER I had started to hunt a place to stay all night I was joined by John Galdie, or "Scottie," as we all called him, who proposed that we should go together. As I knew him to be a quiet, honest fellow I agreed to it. He was nearly as poor as I was, so there was no danger of his taking me to a five-dollar-a-day hotel. We were an uncouth looking pair, and made some sport for the street gamins; used as they were to queer characters. What was known as the "Frazer River bubble," by which thousands had been induced to go up the coast to dig for gold, had lately bursted, and hundreds were coming back ragged and poor.  Thinking we were just from the luckless diggings, much interest was taken in us by the boys.  They called us "Frazer," asked us how we found the folks and where we proposed investing our money.  Paying no attention to such nonsense we trudged over the amphibious streets next the water front; streets lying over what was late the bay. Near the edge of the rising ground on which the solid part of the city is built we came in sight of a sign bearing the words, "Pacific Lodgings, Twenty-five cents." Now the amount of my coin possessions was two ten-cent pieces; but these, on account of a financial reckoning peculiar to California, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Late the next morning we were awakened by the "sound of the church going bell" as it echoed from the many places of worship in the city, ushering in a day unobserved by me for many a long month.  As the sweet chimes came floating to my ears through the morning air memories of the distant land I had so long ago departed from came to me, where the observance of the First day of the week was a rule and not, as here, an exception. During the trip from Leavenworth to San Francisco a single Sabbath had not been observed by our party, and I had not entered a place of worship except a Mormon church, where I had heard the most cranky doctrine.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We laid abed as long as we dared to get the worth of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Another night in company with beings to whom they with which the Prodigal Son ate husks were blue-blooded gentlemen, and a bright morning dawned upon us. We arose early, as now we must begin' hunting for a "job" in earnest, for by the way our watch money was going we found how fleeting was time.  We spent a little more of the results of this time at the "What Cheer "--which, by the way, was one of the greatest restaurants in the world and which furnished meals of good quality at a low price and without the aid of liquor sales--and then went hunting for work.  The trades and professions we found full of incumbents and even day's work could not be had; so after hunting till we were tired, we resolved to leave San Francisco and travel towards Sacramento, intending to try for work among the farmers, and, failing, then strike for the mines.</P>
005.sgm:<P>My funds were now reduced to one dollar, while probably "Scottie" had three or four, he having run his down in the purchase of a pair of shoes. I could not afford these, although I needed them badly.</P>
005.sgm:<P>With the good wishes of our host of the" Pacific Lodgings" accompanying us we left that vermin-infested dormitory about 10 o'clock on the morning of December 27th.  We proceeded directly to the wharf of the San Antonio ferry, where we boarded a little steamer which was soon on its way over the bay.  The day was clear and the sun shone brightly, lighting up the surrounding scenery with glowing tints until it was very beautiful.  Behind us lay the city with its busy wharves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Oakland is now a large place--a sort of a Brooklyn to San Francisco--and noted for its beautiful residences and as the terminus for the principal overland railroad.  On account of its situation the main city can only be reached by land from the east in a round-about way; so an immense ferryboat has been built for carrying several cars at a time across the bay. The town is many times larger now than when I saw it, and much more beautified, but with all its additions it cannot impress modern tourists more than it did me, when, debarking from an unpretentious ferryboat, I walked its shaded streets with their bordering of well-kept yards and pretty residences.  I was hungry, unkempt and out of conceit with my appearance generally, and with spirits down at the heels; but for all that I could not help being impressed with the beauties of the place.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>Coming to a baker shop, in imitation of Franklin, we bought two loaves of bread.  Except in the matter of soiled clothing, I cannot continue the comparison further, for I have no evidence that there were any Miss Reeds with their interested eyes fixed on us, and the community, as far as I can learn, was never materially impressed with our presence. Bread is not very satisfying, so, to make it durable, we bought <illus entity="a005-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OAKLAND IN 1858--CONTRA COSTA MOUNTAINS IN THE DISTANCE</P>
005.sgm:<P>And now for another tramp.  Formerly I had a definite objective point--San Francisco; now it was where I could strike a job of work, which was a very indefinite point.  I thought when I put my luggage on board the "Senator" I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:was done packing it around; but here it was like the "Old Man of the Sea," impossible to shake from my back.  There it lay on the grass, the same old carpet-bag, roll of blankets and boots.  I loathed their sight, but could not do without them. So I had nothing to do but shoulder them, and between the Scylla of moccasons with wet feet, and the Charybdis of tight boots and blistered ankles, go on my way.  Our route lay over a level plain, which the recent rains had rendered <illus entity="a005-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LARGEST FERRYBOAT IN THE WORLD, PLYING BETWEEN SAN FRANCISCO AND OAKLAND.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The plain was dotted at various intervals with ranch buildings, but they were generally far from the road, so that we were obliged to make long <HI REND="italics">detours</HI>
005.sgm: in our search for employment.  We had arrived in California at a bad time for work, as the farmers had all supplied themselves with help.  Each farmer, however, probably to get shut of us, could tell of some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>To make the situation worse towards night it began to rain, and we had both forgotten our umbrellas.  Between my leaky moccasons and wet clothing I fared badly.  At nightfall we came to a.farm-house on whose hospitality we encroached.  The owner was away on our arrival, but soon came home and gave us permission to remain till morning, but did not press us to stay to tea.  We remained outside in the mist and coming darkness until a look through the window showed the table set and preparations made to partake of its edible trimmings, when, "Scottie"leading the way, we entered the kitchen.  Our "cheek" was rewarded with an invitation to a "set-down" supper.  Our manners had not shown remarkable refinement, but we were getting well broken in to our enforced life, and did not suffer any loss of self-respect.  We were beginning to see how life looked from the tramp's side of the fence.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our host, now that we had forced ourselves upon him, treated us kindly, and after supper allowed us to sleep in an outbuilding along with the two hired men.  It was California style for the help to sleep in the barn, or any other place outside the house, which was often a mere shell of one story, with barely room for the ranch owner and his family.  While I was in the State the hired farm-hand had few comforts in this life, and, after he was done with it, was placed without ostentatious ceremony in a fence corner.  One of the hands was an Irishman who was extremely patronizing in his way, and, when we told him how unsuccessful we had been in getting work, said it was because we looked so green on account of our dress.  He said our caps were enough of themselves to bar us from the pleasures of farm life; we must get hats with wide rims and assume a more free and easy air.  As we had not the money to buy hats, nor the wherewithal to raise our spirits, his advice did not amount to much, but I afterwards bore a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Waiting awhile for an invitation to breakfast, which did not evolve, we shouldered our effects with spirits of a downward tendency, and trudged off in the direction of a ranch where lived two bachelors who we heard were in want of people of about our build.  These "twin relics," however, cold-shouldered us and sent us on our way.  The market for us seemed glutted; the supply for us seemed beyond the demand.  This state of things was not very creditable to California, but so it was.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Leaving here, our route lay along a line of telegraph in the direction of a pass in the mountains to the northeast.  We soon entered a crooked ca&ntilde;on, down which was laid a narrow wagon road. This was sideling and slippery from the previous night's rain, which was again falling.  I traveled as usual in tribulation on account of my feet.  Reaching the summit we found it so enveloped in mist we could see but a few paces in any direction.  Descending the other side of the mountain by a winding stream we came to a lone inn called the "Walnut Creek House," where we got some bread and pork of a landlady who looked as sour as her bread.  The day was cold and wet, and being tired and hungry we stopped at a convenient place and built a fire, where we warmed ourselves and ate our recent purchase.  Then we got our pipes and took a smoke. I don't use the weed now, and, in a general way, discountenance it; but when a prohibitory tobacco law is passed I want an exception made in favor of tramps.  It cheers them without inebriation.  I know that after traveling in all kinds of weather, and being perpetually rebuffed by unappreciating <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>It was again shoulder carpet-bags and march!  More rain and no umbrellas!  More changes from boots and blisters to moccasons and misery.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The weather cleared off as we proceeded.  We were now among a maze of vividly green hills through which our road wound.  The land was scatteringly settled, and our chances for work proportionally limited state of my financial thermometer, sixty-five cents above zero and falling!</P>
005.sgm:<P>The country began to subside to gentler curves and to become more settled.  Late in the afternoon we came to a little hamlet and here we made another fruitless effort for work ; but we were told of some further on.  At sun-down we came to a lone ranch whose mistress kindly gave us some biscuits, which much to our relief she would take no pay for.  She let us dry ourselves by the fire awhile, and when her husband came home, he allowed us to lie in the barn all night, for which we were thankful. The sun set brightly, and as its rays slanted through the dripping live-oaks and broad shadows crept out from the hills, I was reminded of when, after similar rain-followed sunsets on the old home farm, I went after the cows, with the trees glistening with crystal drops and the swamp-robin's song ringing from the darkening woods which shaded the waters of the Cuttalossa.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Shaking the straw from our clothing we were again on our way the next morning, the 29th.  Again the green hills arose and fell before us.  From the summit of a range we enjoyed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A GLANCE AT MONTE DEL DIABLO.</P>
005.sgm:<P>After breakfast time we came to another ranch, whose lady furnished us with breakfast, on our request being made.  She seemed kind and had told us if we would wait she would give us something better than cold victuals.  We supposed this would be a gratis affair, and when the meal was ready we complained not that the bread was sour, the pork unsavory and the coffee made from old stock, but ate the viands thankfully. Thinking it safe to offer to pay for our fare, I put my hand in my pocket as a preparatory flourish, and asked the extent of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Leaving this ranch which had so raided our funds we trudged through the ever verdant range of hills and descended to a plain bordering a sluggish stream flowing into Suisun Bay. About 4 o'clock we came to the village of Pacheco.  On the way we met a man who said there was a fence-builder living there who wanted hands, and him we found at the "grocery," which means a combination of grog-shop and store.  He told us if he got a contract he was expecting he would give us work. "Scottie" went with him to see about it, I being too footsore to go along.  So I seated myself down on the porch till they got back. The village was mainly Mexican, one of that race keeping the "grocery," or <HI REND="italics">tienda</HI>
005.sgm:<P>In an hour "Scottie" and the contractor came back, but with no good news, so we moved on in the direction of Martinez. Just after dark we overtook a man who lived in the latter place.  He knew of no work, was poor himself, and if he had room in his little house said he would keep us.  Hearing we had no money to pay for lodgings he took us to an empty school house, on the edge of the village, where we could stay all night. He then left us to ourselves in the thickening gloaming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:doubtless experiencing the same relief we all feel when sending a tramp to a hotel, a proprietor of a brief to the nearest benevolent neighbor, or a book-agent to our worst enemy.  We loitered around the door of the empty hall of learning for a while but did not enter, fearing we might not get awake in time for school; besides, we questioned the right of our departed friend, who had thoughtfully slipped away, to give us the freedom of this hall of learning.  We then went on to Martinez, a considerable town and the county seat of Contra Costa <illus entity="a005-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>STRAITS OF CARQUINAZ.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Here we found a liveryman kind enough to let us pass the night in his stable.  He sent a hostler with us, and picking out a comfortable stall we secured it by depositing our baggage therein.  It being too cold to sit there, we went to the hotel adjacent, and seated around a warm stove we fired up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The next morning, without any preliminary grooming or feeding, we left our stable and went to the wharf, where, in an hour's time, the ferry-boat landed.  Willing to run the risk of being put on shore when the captain found out the condition of my bank account, I went on board with "Scottie." Luckily for me that officer did not come around for the fare until the boat had started.  When he came my heart worked up toward my throat when I had to tell him I had but twenty cents, which I offered him.  "If that is all you have," said he, "keep it till you Can pay me!"  Here was a slice of practical Christianity in a state so covered with mortgages of the ArchEnemy!</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our boat was soon over, and stepping ashore I found myself in Benicia, once the capital of California and named after General Vallejo's daughter, who was dead and lay buried among the green hills back of the town.  Vallejo, a short distance off was to have been the capital, and to secure it the General spent $100,000 on state buildings, which were unused and went to ruin; a new whim having seized the authorities. Benicia was then a government post, having extensive barracks.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Striking across a range of green hills we at length came to the road leading to Sacramento.  This highway follows the fiat land bordering the Bay of. Suisun, except where the marshes which fringe it force it to the high ground.  Here it was sideling, and my hard boots blistered my feet worse than ever while traversing these slopes.  "Scottie," with his comfortable shoes, could easily outwalk me.  Conversation on general topics having long since been exhausted, we talked little as we walked along, and as at this season rain was chronic, we had not many pleasant things to say, our wet clothing putting a damper on conversation.  The road was a lonely one, and as the ranches were far apart we had few chances for work.  The land was marshy and covered with Shallow pools.  The bay adjacent was broad and shallow, and was the recipient of the waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin.  A sail now and then, or a rare steamer, was all that enlivened its waters, and these were often hidden by mists.  We came at sundown to a group of isolated hills, when, turning a point, we came to a lone tavern called the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:"Cordelia House."  Entering the bar-room we sat down be fore the fire to dry and warm ourselves, and lighting our pipes prepared, as far as I was concerned, to pass a hungry night.  We had walked sixteen miles that day, about forty in all, and still no work.  With my sore feet, aching bones and empty pockets I felt about as low down a tramp as runs the <illus entity="a005-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"SCOTTIE" AND I.</P>
005.sgm:<P>When the landlord came in to see how many of us wanted supper I said nothing, knowing I could not pay for it. When the bell rang I was going to remain and starve it out, but "Scottie" told me to come on and he would pay.  Never did his voice sound so pleasant.  It appeared he had not been entirely "broke," but this last venture finished him financially.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>In the midst of a penetrating rain we left the hotel and struck across a range of hills for Napa Valley, where we were told we would find work.  I had nothing to carry but my blankets, so I traveled with more comfort.  What I had left was of no practical use to me, being a better suit of clothing and some books.  One of these was named "Spanish without a Master," which I had studied that I might enjoy conversation with the native Californians.  It was aptly named, for if it ever had a master it was without one while I carried it. Arrived in the valley, work was as scarce as ever.  We would alternate in making our inquiries. Some would be answered respectfully, others rudely.  I well recollect a farmer we came across while he was killing a hog.  It was my turn, and in spite of the inauspiciousness of the moment, I humbly asked him if he did not want a couple of good men.  Looking up from his gory work in surprise, for he had not seen me before, he spitefully told me he "couldn't raise enough money to pay the men he had, let alone more," and went on with his work. Tired and hungry, as usual, we arrived at a wayside ranch, whose owner was just going to dinner.  He had no work for us, but kindly invited us to sit down to the table.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We were now getting into the heart of Napa Valley, one of the greatest grain growing regions around the bay.  We came to the little village of Suscol about sunset.  Here lived some Bucks Countians, but I did not know it then.  Just beyond we came to Napa.  Unacquainted with the country over which we were traveling I thought we were going more and more into the wilderness.  Imagine my surprise when I saw a large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The next thing to find out was where to pass the night. The town, covered as it was with the gathering shades of evening, looked inhospitable, which might not have been the case in the broad glare of day.  Wandering half aimlessly about the streets and passing groups of merry people---for it was New Year's Eve--who so contrasted with our sorry selves, we again gravitated towards a livery stable.  Seeing a light within we entered, and looking around for a comfortable stall humbly asked the proprietor if he could stable us. "No; I will not," said he; "I never allow stragglers in my barn over night." We were leaving when he called us back, and in a kindlier tone told us we might sleep in a shed outside.  This we found to be an open place, covered with straw on poles, and here we left our blankets and started out to hunt a fire, for the night air chilled us.  We soon found a hotel before whose hearth we made ourselves comfortable. Being hungry we at length sallied out, and striking a bakery invested our joint capital, twenty cents, in two loaves of bread.  We were now bankrupt.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Upon coming out we heard music, and going to where it came from we entered a hotel.  Here we found an assemblage of young men, who had come from the surrounding country to take part in a New Year's ball; for that day had ushered in the year 1859.  Money was Sowing freely from these generous young Californians for worse than useless things, while we were suffering for necessities.  Things to us seemed out of joint.  The dancing soon began, and to see it we went to the hall adjoining the ball-room.  Groups of pretty, well-dressed girls came down the stairs and whisked by us, laughing and talking on their way to join the merry-makers.  I wondered what they thought of the two tramps looking on, or whether they thought of them at all.  The men might have been common rowdies in cheap-store-clothes, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:girls mediocre affairs in shoddy dresses and' brass jewelry, but to us, from our humble station, they seemed as of the <HI REND="italics">elite</HI>
005.sgm:<P>We looked at this gay scene from our comfortable position as long as we thought it prudent for fear of ejectment, when we left, and wending our way through the noisy streets sought our straw palace.  Making our beds on some bales of hay we at last got to sleep.  The next morning we were awakened by the crowing of some biddies roosting on the shed.  The air was chilling and a thick fog hung over the town and its surroundings.  We remained wrapped up until the sun was an hour high, when we rolled up our blankets and resumed our tramp, but with the usual luck.  At noon we reached a ranch owned by a retired sea captain, who, on appearing, said: "Well boys! just from the States, are you?" Want work, do you?  Got none, but got some dinner for you! Walk right in and help yourselves!"  We had a tip-top dinner, winding up with pie.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Here we heard of a ranch a few miles off where hands were wanted.  Thanking our entertainer we made a bee line thence, across broad, level fields, and about 4 o'clock got to the boundaries of the ranch.  We soon came across two shepherds who were seated by a fire under a wide spreading live-oak and tending some thousands of sheep.  Coming to the ranch we were told that the "Patron," Signor Augustina, was not at home, but soon would be.  In about an hour he made his appearance, and through an interpreter told us that they had all the help needed, but that a friend, eighteen miles away, wanted him to get him two men, and that if we would stay with him two or three days he would take us over.  This information made us exceedingly glad, for it meant something to eat for that length of time.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The Salvador Ranch, which we were now on, belonged to Salvador Vallejo, brother to the General, and was a large tract from the amount of wheat they were putting in--two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>There were fifty plows at work, the motive power being oxen and horses.  Most of the former were native cattle and were driven by Mexicans.  They pulled by their horns, the yoke being lashed to them.  It was an odd sight to see the Mexicans plowing, with sharpened sticks instead of whips, with Spanish oaths instead of English, and with different commands from ours.  You could hear the wild cries of the drivers a long distance.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We enjoyed ourselves in a fashion the several days we were on the Salvador Ranch.  The reader can hardly appreciate the change from our tramp life to this.  We had an easy time, doing what odd jobs we liked, had plenty to eat and a jaw-mow to sleep in.  The table manners were somewhat primitive, I admit.  Hats were worn when desirable.  If a piece of bread was wanted no waiter passed it along, neither I the wisher ill-manneredly reach for it.  He simply said the one nearest the edible, " Hello! pard, heave us a chunk bread."  In a trice it would come, like a quoit.  The coffee-pot was passed along that whoso wanted might pour.  There was no table-cloth for one to be afraid of soiling, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>To make a long story short I left the ranch on the 4th of January, in company with my good friend "Scottie," in a wagon driven by Signor Augustina, and bound for Signor X., who lived in the Valley of Petaluma.  The morning was cold and a foggy darkness surrounded us, as drawn by a span of half-broken, half-bred horses we swiftly moved over the flat which extended to a neighboring ridge, beyond which was the Valley of Sonoma.  Lightly clad as we were, "Scottie" and I shivered with the cold, and crouching down in the wagon we covered ourselves with our blankets.  No talk ensued between us and our conductor for the good reason that it was impossible, from neither knowing the other's language.  The ride was unpleasant until the sun rose to partially dispel the mists and warm the air.  Like reptiles thawed to activity by the warmth of Spring we shook off our blankets and enjoyed ourselves looking around us as we passed the varying scenery.  Now we were driving rapidly over a long level stretch, now crossing a rolling divide, through tortuous ca&ntilde;ons, along a serpentine road so sideling in places that I was afraid of an upset, and then crossing a break-neck gulch or wading some sticky bog.  We passed by scattered ranches and at rare intervals a hotel.  At 11 o'clock we came to the old Spanish town of Sonoma, twelve miles from Napa.  This is a quaint looking place, with a <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVI. Ranch Life.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>SIGNOR X., an Italian some sixty years old, had been a Successful merchant in San Francisco.  He had a son named Pedro, who married a native heiress.  This lady inherited a tract of one thousand six hundred acres in Sonoma County, and thinking a fortune might be made in farming, the whole party, father, mother, son and his wife and baby left San Francisco and moved to this ranch, on which had previously been built a house and barn. With them were transported all manner of farming implements; among them a subsoil plow for delving in a soil which hardly knew a bottom, some of which was composed of an adobe clay so hard that the coulter point would hardly scratch it.  Though Pedro and his wife owned the property they were looked upon as children by the old gentleman, who was the controlling power on the ranch.  He scolded his son as if he were a boy in roundabouts, and he in his turn, as if he found consolation in the humiliation of so doing, unnecessarily scolded his employees.  Inez, the young wife, was as much of a plaything as was the baby, Ana, or as she was called in the diminuendos of the Spanish language, Anita, and, as far as assisting at household affairs was concerned, was of no more account than the baby.  Signor X. did the cooking.  He was a singular genius, and cut an odd figure as with head <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>It was here that John Galdie and I began ranch life in the Golden State, January 4th.  The only man X. had hired before our coming was an Irishman, named Richard Dobbin, and guided by his feeble directions and the oath-filled broken English of the father and the less bearable interference of the son, who for fear of offending the old man, of whom he was in dread, merely repeated or translated his words, we began operations by breaking up the prairie sod which, unencumbered by bush or tree, spread in abrupt billows all around us.</P>
005.sgm:<P>For drawing our three Yankee plows we had to choose our teams from eleven head of horses, all of which, with one exception, were of mixed native breed.  This exception was Old Tom, a bob-tail gray, brought from the States, and which was our main stand-by.  He once had a mate, which had departed this life previous to our arrival, poisoned by a discharged hand, so our suspicion-filled master said, but which was more probably killed by overwork.  So the whole blunt came on Tom.  As far as my experience went, the native horses had but little endurance, and those which were manageable were continually giving out in the team.  Some were valueless to plow or wagon, and were only available when spanned with a wooden saddle and bridled with the cruel Spanish bit, and were ridden galloping over the prairie.  A few were docile, but these were soon broken down with hard work, so that our plow teams were reduced to one, the centrepiece of which was the faithful Tom.  A part of the tract was a deep shale loam and was easy plowing, but a large portion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:was "adobe," a stiff, brown clay, hard to start the plow in, and when entered difficult to keep there from the roots of a weed called the soap plant.  The ranch was quite hilly and inconvenient to work, except where the hills arose like hemispheres, when we began at the bottom and plowed round and round. We worked the horses three abreast but, except in mellow soil, made poor headway.  As the horses were mainly unbroken we were in continual turmoil by their kicking, refusing to pull and getting tangled in the harness.  The "Patron," or Boss, was constantly on hand, swearing, beating the horses, bearing his heavy weight, for he was six feet high and broad of build, on the plow beam and Screaming, " <HI REND="italics">Mucho terrano!  Mucho terrano</HI>
005.sgm:!" which meant more ground, in order to make us take a broader furrow and a deeper.  At times the team would be completely exhausted, or may be inextricably tangled up, and then the old gentleman would stand angry and overflowing with fearful and unintelligible oaths, gesticulating wildly and with stout staff pounding the poor " <HI REND="italics">caballos</HI>
005.sgm:."  He swore Spanish, Italian and broken English.  At such times we cut a comical figure: the struggling horse, the irate master and awe-stricken hired-man.  After the teams were reduced to one, a teamless teamster was kept riding the plow-beam, so that the last trio was used up.  The whole cavalcade, except Tom and a riding horse, was now turned out to graze and recruit, and our master turned his attention to oxen as plow propellers.  First he bought a medium-sized pair of cattle, but under the original dispensation they soon went the way of their equine brethren.  Then a new pair were bought, and a fine, big yoke they were.  And now, with two span of oxen to a wheel-plow, we might be seen gaily cruising over the prairie. We were all in raptures, particularly the horses, who eyed us from afar on their pasturage, and while we were not interfered with we got along finely.  But soon the Patron's evil genius set him to interfering, and the greedy man again screamed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:"<HI REND="italics">Mucho terrano</HI>
005.sgm:<P>One of my morning duties was to haul water from a spring three hundred yards off, for house use and for soaking barley overnight for the horses.  This I accomplished with my faithful companion, Tom, hitched to a wooden sled, on which were placed two barrels; these filled, I drew them up a steep hill.  Once I recollect my frail sled pulled apart and set the lading to playing roley-boley to the bottom.  I looked at them with unenviable feelings, listening to the tantalizing "glug-glug" the bung gave forth each revolution, Tom looking quietly on.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The Patron always routed us up before daylight after a night which was always too short.  I often thought of the miserable negro slaves, who longed all day for night and sighed when the morning came!  About an hour before daylight we would hear the voice of the elder Patron penetrating the foggy air with frantic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>When our eleven horses were all working we divided their care between us, and generally had them ready for work before day.  We fed them on wild oats, cut green, clover and timothy hay being unknown, while for solid feed we gave them barley. This was put to soak twelve hours before using, as it was indigestible otherwise. The horses cleaned and harnessed, we went to breakfast, which was invariably composed of <HI REND="italics">galleta Italiana</HI>
005.sgm:, a kind of hard bread and coffee; each of the best quality, but not a very solid diet for laboring men.  This bread, which is far superior to hard tack, is six inches in diameter and from a half-inch to an inch in thickness, and one of these disks we found each morning by our coffee-bowls.  Plates and knives and forks we never had, because we had no use for them.  Of coffee, with the customary trimmings, we had an abundance on tap in the tea-kettle.  The bread we broke up and put to soak, as we did the barley for the horses; in fact, the two and four-legged workers on the farm fared pretty much alike, except the latter got waited on and we did not.  The bread puffed up elegantly, but its staying qualities were poor.  One hour's worrying with the teams or swinging the big maul would turn it into hired man.  Thinking our allowance too small, Dick explored the kitchen loft one morning with his long arms and found the source of our bread supply, and after that we did not want.  Our dinners were composed of fresh beef in general, or cod-fish on fast days, fried in oil, and bread and coffee.  Pie we never saw, but mushrooms we had sometimes.  Supper the same.  This was our favorite meal as we were not hurried, and we often prolonged it rather than go to the gloom of the barn. We were never in the house except at meal time, and as we had no village store, with its nail-keg seats held down by garrulous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>In justice to Signor X. I must say he was a good cook, and lovingly bending over his stew-pan, he had quite a domestic look, in strong contrast to his appearance when roaming his daughter's broad acres.  The family ate in an adjoining room, and, for all I know, fared as we did. We were much edified by the family conversation while at meals--there was but a thin board partition between us--particularly as we could not understand a word they said.  They were continually talking; the rough bass of the senior mingling with the soft voice of Inez and the childish treble of baby Anita.  Our meals eaten, we would go to our allotted tasks; my morning chore being to hitch Tom to the sled matutinal, when barrel laden we sped merrily to the fountain.  After this I would play plow or a tattoo on the redwood posts.  Supper over, which was after dusk, we went to our sleeping apartment, which was a room partitioned off in the barn, within hearing of the crunching horses. In our boudoir there were two bunks; one for" Scottie" and I, the other was Dick's  Then, if not too tired, we would light a candle and talk on such subjects as came uppermost; Dick, perhaps, about his times before we came with our Patron, how rich he was and what a store he had in "Frisco;" "Scottie," of his life amid the "banks and braes" of Scotland; I, about how much better I was fixed when in the "States."  This Dick would doubt, or else cover my narrative over and tuck it in with a more favorable account of his ante-Californian life, so I would wish I had said nothing.  Dick was a good-hearted, gabby fellow, head-over-heels, but entertaining withal.  During the fifteen weeks we were there we were away but one evening, which we spent with a neighboring farmer, who in a rude shanty kept bachelor's hall, as did most of his class around there.  We were always too tired at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Besides we three there was a Mexican helper for awhile, named Antonio.  He was a good-natured fellow, and I often used him for a lay-figure to try my "Spanish without a Master" on.</P>
005.sgm:<P>In this book was a story I knew by heart, and this I could repeat to him understandingly.  It related to three travelers who found a treasure.  Being hungry, one of them was sent to buy meat.  That he might enjoy the money himself, he poisoned the meat; that the other two might possess it, they resolved to kill him.  The result was, all three lay dead by the side of the treasure, much to the profit of a philosopher who opportunely passed by and pocketed the same.  The tale, with its burden of gold and murder, was typically Spanish and pleased Antonio, who called it a " <HI REND="italics">muy buena historian</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Antonio was as full of " <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
005.sgm: " and " <HI REND="italics">No Quiero</HI>
005.sgm: " as the generality of the Spanish-Indian race.  The first, which is literally "who knows," means "I don't know and don't want to," and is &amp; convenient answer for a shiftless, careless person to make. As for " <HI REND="italics">No Quiero</HI>
005.sgm:<P>In a few days the Mexican left.  Soon after the Patron and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>In March we commenced setting out a vineyard nursery, the ground for which we had previously prepared.  There were three acres of it.  We made holes in the furrows fifteen inches deep and two feet apart, and in these we stuck the cuttings, pressing the earth close around them and leaving one bud exposed.  We set out about three thousand vines.  This was done in March, which was the coldest month I experienced in California.  The northwest winds prevailed and seemed to penetrate our clothing like needles, but we had but little rain in comparison with the past months.  I must say, however, that although I spent the rainy season in California, I lost but few days on account of rain, which mainly came at night, or so light in daytime as not to prevent our working.  Setting out this vineyard would hardly be called "temperance work" now, but at that time it was no more than planting out an apple orchard, as far as consequential damages were concerned.  Anyhow the wine produced there was probably used for sacramental and mechanical purposes.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We now had little to do.  The farm work there came mainly in the winter and summer months, so that in the spring there was much leisure.  Our Patron now seemed sore beset to find excuses to get shut of us, as milking, hauling water and chopping wood were all we had to do.</P>
005.sgm:<P>One day, soon after Dick's departure, we had a little variety in the shape of killing a vagabond cow for beef.  She was ranging the prairie, when, our meat running low, her fate was sealed; so the X.'s, senior and junior, with "Scottie," myself and the dog Rita, went a hunting.  Pedro was mounted on his riding horse, Jim, and with his high saddle, Swinging lasso, broad sombrero, leather leggings and jingling spurs was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:a sight.  His father, with his flowing beard and gray locks, capped with a Skull cap, his red Sash streaming in the wind, with his murderous bird-gun, acted as foot-soldier.  Running about, shouting and gesticulating, he made a good companion-piece to his son, while the rest of us took the part of whippers-in for the hunters.  Our game was a Spanish cow, roving and fierce in her disposition, so that Pedro had much the safest position among the participants in the <HI REND="italics">battue</HI>
005.sgm:.  We had a lively time of it for a while; Pedro, in his <HI REND="italics">toreador</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Among the things we did towards the close of our time there was to set out a lot of fruit trees in front of the house.  This work was done in those spring fever days, the saddest of the year, and with many anxious glances at the slow moving sun. November days are quoted for their superabundance of melancholia, but, as far as my experience goes, there are a few days in the month which has All Fools' day for its Genesis which lays them under.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>While crossing the plains I was called Stephen.  Hearing the outrageous nicknames my comrades bore, and thinking my Christian title provocative of something novel and outrageous, from its rareness, I gave my middle name; I regret to Say, with unsatisfactory results.  The Patron called me Henry, for what reason I don't know.  He either thought that "Steve," as "Scottie" called me, sounded like Henry, or, what is more probable, called me Henry indifferently, as we call a Chinaman "John," or a goat "Billy."  At any rate, Henry I started, and Henry I remained, even "Scottie" and Dick sliding into the delusion, possibly to save confusion, or, perhaps, thinking our employers might think I was a suspicious character with numerous <HI REND="italics">aliases</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Don Pedro was sometimes ridiculous in his reticence.  Not condescending to generalize he would give directions on the instalment plan, so that when he began we did not know what the outcome would be.  He spoke good English, but as slowly as if there was a dash between each word. For instance, he would say:  "Yoke up those oxen!  Hitch them to the wagon!  Now start!  Gee them!  Haw them!  Now straight ahead! Haw them!" and so on, until one day we found ourselves on the summit of an adjacent mountain, without our knowing from one turn to the next where we were going to, and what was our errand; the Don simply sitting on the wagon and giving directions, as needed.  Our business was simply to cut a load of wood from the tops of the live-oaks, trees being too scarce in that section to warrant cutting them down for fuel.  As to the desirability of such work, with insecure footing, whacking away at the inferior limbs Don Pedro, from his secure position on the ground, should designate, and at the risk of cutting ourselves, or tumbling to the ground and hurting the Patron, I leave you to imagine.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Let me say here, parenthetically, that on reviewing what I have written I am impressed with the thought of how tame the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Antonio had gone; Dick had gone, and now "Scottie," my only comrade and the last of my companions of the plains, was to leave also.  He and the Patron had a quarrel which severed the bands which had held them together so long. We had been in the same mess for four and a half months crossing the plains, and had seen rough times there and on the road to California.  We had been on the tramp two weeks, wherein he had shared his last dollar with me.  But such is the callousness acquired by leading such a life as ours that we parted without even a hand-shake. I said "Good-bye, Scottie!" and he "Good-bye, Steve!"  That was all, unless his falling back to my old name of "Steve" was a concession which indicated a softening of the heart at thoughts of our late vagabond life.  With blankets slung over his shoulder he turned his back on the ranch and started towards Sonoma.  He was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I felt really lonesome and down-hearted that night when I went to sleep in my dingy room in the barn. I was practically alone on the sixteen hundred acre ranch.  I longed for the unappreciated company of Dick, with his wild yarns; or his accounts of his heart smashing exploits in his native land-for Richard was something of a Don Juan.  I sighed for the quiet company of "Scottie," generally taciturn, but sometimes rising to feats of droll humor. With the exception of Old Tom I had no company now.  No sound was heard save what he made crunching his owner's wild oats, (his own he had sown long since) or when, his Scanty rations eaten, he gnawed the manger.  A steady old boy was Tom, though a little trickey withal.  When the barley approached the bottom of the hogs-head we turned him out to grass, and, consequently, I had to catch him every morning to haul water.  At such times who so trying as Tom?  Hither and thither I ran.  Now I had him and now I hadn't!  I would pen him in a fence corner and then he would be like the Hibernian flea.  At last we would come to a mutual understanding and get to work. Poor Tom! with all his faults I loved him still, particularly when I wanted to catch him.  If yet alive, may he get all he wants of his favorite soaked barley; if dead, may he be among the green pastures of the equine Elysian Fields!</P>
005.sgm:<P>I said no noise disturbed me save Tom's jawing.  Let me hasten to unsay this.  I was afflicted with rats in the worst form, with no "Pied Piper of Hamelin"to come to me with his aid, and whisk them away with the presto! of his tuneful reed.  Not in units, twins nor triplets did they come only, but in swarms like the locusts of old.  They reserved all their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>One day in a good humored mood the Patron asked me for the first time about my family.  I did as they usually do under similar circumstances, told him of the better days I had seen, and how I did not have to do as I did now; just doing it to see the world from different standpoints, etc.  He was a poor logician and failed to see my motives, and I had the mortification therefore of seeing he did not believe a word I said.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I was getting uneasy for fear my parents had got none of my letters, some of which had been posted in out-of-the-way places or given in charge of persons who might neglect to post them.  I had written two or three times since my arrival, but had not received any since leaving Salt Lake.  In the ten months or more since I left home I had no answers. Thinking that perhaps there might be some for me in San Francisco I wrote down, and was gratified in a few days <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The next morning I fixed for my departure.  After my solitary breakfast of bread and coffee, Don Pedro called me into the <HI REND="italics">sanctum</HI>
005.sgm: sanetorum--dining-room, sitting-room and parlor combined--a room never seen by the profane eyes of the hired men, save when they received their wages after dismissal. Through its portals went Antonio, Dick and "Scottie" to get their hard-earned gold, afterwards to make exit and seek elsewhere their fortunes.  It was not such a grand room; in fact, was partly used as a granary.  In the room was the whole family seated, like an inquisitorial conclave, among which was Madam X., the invalid, whom I had not seen since I came on the ranch.  Behind a table sat Don Pedro with a pile of gold and silver before him, the amount of my wages. It was correctly computed, at the rate of twenty-six, dollars per month, sixty dollars in all, beside what I had received. This he pushed toward me in silence. The only word spoken by any of this weird group was by the aged Signor, who, completely relaxed from his old-time ways, spoke kindly, telling me to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>It was a beautiful day when I left, so different from the morning I came there.  I was different myself.  In place of the seedy tramp with his humble demeanor, and fearing he could not secure work, I departed erect, in good spirits and clad respectably. I took the route of" Scottie" and the one over which Signor Augustina had brought us.  It was the 21st of April, and the hills through which the unfenced road wound were clothed in the greenest of grass, on which herds of cattle were pasturing.  The range on my left was dotted at intervals with live-oaks, and with the verdure about them looked like a series of apple orchards; for at a distance an apple-tree and live-oak look much alike.  At about 9 I came to Sonoma, a town I had passed through before, but then almost invisible in the morning fog.  This old town possesses historical interest in connection with the conquest of California, for here Colonel Fremont proclaimed its independence before he knew of the war between the United States and Mexico, and hoisted the "Bear Flag" in the Square.  It was typical of the towns found in the province previous to 1847; a bare <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
005.sgm: surrounded by low, adobe structures, whitewashed and glaring, mainly public buildings, stores and drinking places, before which numerous saddle-horses were standing.  Extending from this at increasing intervals were more adobe buildings, humble enough the most of them.  In spite of this the town had a pleasant look in its setting of green fields and outlying pasture ranges.  I stopped here but a few minutes, and walking over the level <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I crossed the divide and at last reached the swampy plains bordering the Napa River.  Leaving Napa with its unpleasant recollections to the left, I crossed the river further down, at Suscol.  Here was a hotel where I staid all night, faring very differently from when last here in this neighborhood, when my comrade and I slept supperless in a straw-shed. The next morning I started early and soon struck the trail where we traveled in such tribulation a few months before.  Then down-hearted, ragged and penniless, foot-sore and limping, I trudged along, zigzagging from ranch to ranch hunting for work; often the recipient of snubs and grudgingly offered meals, and thankful if I could find a comfortable stable to sleep in.  Now I walked cheerfully along, taking in the scenery, with money in plenty, and when tired, "took mine ease <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I was glad to find my carpet-bag.  In it was a suit of clothes I had carried with me from Kansas, thinking a presentable appearance would sometimes help me to a situation, and which before leaving home had been my "best suit."  Then there was a folio-book in which I had transcribed my writings; poor enough when I look upon them now, but which I then thought would be a passport to a good position.  In it, in pencil, I had kept the notes of my overland journey.  There were other books which helped weigh me down, all of which I found and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Now well laden with clothing, bodily and mental, I left the Cordelia House and was soon on my way down the valley towards Benicia, where I arrived at sun-down.  After supper I walked out on the wharf to wait for the Sacramento steamer to appear.  I would like to have seen my clever ferryboat captain to pay him my ferriage, but I saw nothing of him.  I have never paid him yet, but when I go to California I will hunt him up and give him principal and interest.  He must be nearing his centennial now.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The steamer soon made its appearance through the gathering night, screaming and asthmatic.  It swung to, made a short stop, and I boarded her.</P>
005.sgm:<P>What a medley of passengers!  Miners from the mountains and plains; bowie-knived, pistoled and hirsute, but far more peaceable than they looked; merchants from the far inland towns and Sacramento; gamblers, gentlemanly and observant; slant-eyed Chinamen, with their long queues; swarthy "greasers" from the river ranches, and butternut-colored Indians; all talking in their different tongues, and all bound for the centre of the California social and commercial System--San Francisco!</P>
005.sgm:<P>The boat moved slowly from the wind-swept wharf of Benicia, and then plunged with clang of bell, shriek of whistle and escape of steam through the inky waves and increasing gloom. The style of travel I was now indulging in almost took my breath with its luxuriance.  This was not working my passage across the plains, shouting myself hoarse at broken-down oxen. It was not jolting over deserts in a springless wagon, or tramping around hunting work and leading a semi-servile life when I found it.  Here was richness!  Cabin passage in a "palatial" steamer, tinsel and gilding, curtains and mirrors <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF SAN FRANCISCO--GOLDEN GATE IN THE DISTANCE.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Around me the lip-river passengers, wearied with their long passage, were sleepily lounging on sofas and chairs, while the newly acquired ones sauntered idly around or sat reading.  Soon the hotel-runner, who had boarded our craft at Benicia, made his appearance.  I could tell him in advance by his gentlemanly dress and address, his dangling watch-chain on a background of satin vest, his glossy hat and his smooth tongue, and his peculiar way of introducing his subject.  Placidly smiling he accosts you.  He takes a random lingual voyage on the sea of prevailing topics, and by rare and skilful pilotage brings you by easy stages to the present hotel system; from that to the way in which San Francisco caravan-series are conducted, and from that to <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, with a persistent, pulmonic cough, properly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVII. In and around San Francisco.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>IT is not of the San Francisco of the present I would speak.  Were I to, in view of the many annual excursionists from the East who bring back oral and written descriptions thereof, I would be the proper recipient of the peculiar words of desistance which the supple tongues of our people lap out of our plastic language.  I would speak of the San Francisco of the past, when a good part of its foundations were swashed by the waters of the bay they arose from; before cable cars were thought of, and the "Nobs" had peopled "Nob Hill;" when the city was badly lighted, and, for want of works, water was peddled about the town in huge hogsheads on wheels; when the foreign element was large, and the vigilantes had just finished purifying the moral atmosphere of the metropolis.  Or that more distant time, the pastoral age of California, when a chain of missions extended from San Francisco on the north to San Diego on the south, peopled with converted Indians and surrounded by the flocks and herds they cared for.  Or earlier still, when Drake's clumsy ship came riding through the Golden Gate, the object of the attention of groups of deer on the headlands, or dread of the fleeing natives, while the buccaneer sailors gazed with rapture on the scene before them.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>It is a question whether the Bay of San Francisco was discovered by land or sea travelers, though it is plausibly claimed that the zealous Spanish missionaries who established the missions south were the first Europeans to see this magnificent sheet of water.  In a fertile valley, two miles south of the centre of the present site of the city, Father Junipero Serra, in 1769, set up his cross, rang his invitation bells to summon the heathen, and here started the Mission of San Francisco, although it <illus entity="a005-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO BAY IN THE GOOD OLD TIME.</P>
005.sgm:was six years later before it was fairly established.  It having been requested that one of the missions should be called after Saint Francis, Father Junipero waited till the 9th of November, 1776, that saint's day, and then, amid his followers and the surrounding wondering Indians, dedicated it the Mission of San Francisco.  It was afterwards named the Mission Dolores (Mission of Sorrows).  At the dedication <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Eighteen of these missions were scattered along the coast within twenty miles of the sea.  The Fathers were devoted to their work, and at one time (1800) had fifteen thousand converts on the rolls.  But they were held by the frail tenure of favor and reward of creature comforts, so that when the missions were denuded of their lands the miserable wretches returned to the ways of their fathers.  At its most flourishing time the Mission Dolores had about eight hundred converted Indians connected with it, and eighty thousand cattle, horses and mules, and the same number of sheep.  In 1831 the number of the former had gone down to six thousand, while there was no record of the latter.  The valleys along the rivers running into the bay made fine pasture ground, and cattle-raising flourished until the Fathers lost their control and their faithful Indians were driven to their late vagabond life.  Dana, in his "Two Years Before the Mast," gives an interesting account of his visit to this mission, and the sufferings of the crew while collecting hides and getting wood and water.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The crushing out of the missions through the rapacity of the Mexican government, and the necessity of the Fathers giving up their pious work, and the scattering of their converts, is a painful chapter in the history of California.  The Indians, even if held to Christianity by being well fed and clothed, were much better off than when savages, and led comparatively industrious lives, while their religious instructors or masters, if you choose to call them so, though often ignorant monks, led exemplary, self-sacrificing lives, and did the best they knew for the bodily and spiritual welfare of their wards.</P>
005.sgm:<P>While the Mexicans held California there was a struggle between the clerical and secular power over the missions, which at times would attain some of their former power, while at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HOW THEY BUILT THE SHIPS IN.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The war over and gold discovered, the Mission Dolores ceased to be the business centre of the region around the bay; for the harbor, where the incoming vessels bringing passengers and supplies must land, was two miles north. This was Yerba Buena Cove, and the deep water opposite was soon alive with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The account of the frauds practiced in the sale of these water lots, and the efforts brought to bear on the Legislature to sell more to the detriment of those owning front lots, and to the safety of the harbor on account of forcing the outlying vessels further to the mercy of the swift tides, would furnish interesting reading.  Also in regard to one Dr. Peter Smith, who, holding "scrip" which could not be realized on, sued the city and exposed public property for sale.  The authorities made proclamation that the purchasers would not get possession of what they bought; but the sale went on, and the properties <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Public Squares, as we understand them, San Francisco had none, unless two or three open places devoid of grass or ornamentation could be called such.  One of these was known <illus entity="a005-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OLD MISSION DOLORES.</P>
005.sgm:<P>At the time of my arrival in California the Mission Dolores <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I give two sketches of this mission.  The first was taken in 1854, and represents it with a "lean-to" the whole length, next to the Campo Santo, or graveyard.  A sketch I made of it four years later shows this "lean-to" removed and the space occupied by graves.  The porticoed building on the right of the main church was used as a drinking saloon and hotel at the time of my visit.  Since then a sense of shame has caused this to be done away with, the building torn down, and in its place arises a towered church which dwarfs the old mission by its side.  I give a representation of the new and old churches, the former from a photograph.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Thirty years ago a description of the Chinese in San Francisco, their habits, customs and dress, would have made interesting reading; but now, with thousands in our Eastern towns, the case is different.  Still I may be excused for saying something about that much-abused race.  Shuffling along the streets with their odd countenances and dress, they made a great impression on me.  Then as now they were looked upon <illus entity="a005-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MISSION DOLORES AS IT IS NOW. (From a Photograph by Faber.)</P>
005.sgm:as nuisances, chiefly because they lived on little and were willing to work for low wages.  They had been badly abused, cheated, beaten, murdered.  They were game for "hoodlums" and people who called themselves respectable.  I heard an apparently fair man say that once when out of funds in the mining regions, he sat on the roadside waiting for a China-mall to come along that he might rob him!  He thought no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I have spoken of the "Golden Gate," but I did not say that it was so named before the gold discoveries were made.  It is simply a fanciful name.  The broad peninsula between San Francisco and the sea is a series of barren ridges, the highest point near the city being called Telegraph Hill. Here was a station formerly used for signaling vessels when they approached the coast; but this had been superseded by a telegraph line. This mode of communication bad become common in the thickly settled part of the State, but with the East the overland stage line was the quickest mode of conveying news, unless it was the Nicaraugua route.  There was but forty miles of railroad in the State, and this was from Marysville on the Sacramento, northward.  The stage and steamboat were as yet the main reliance for travelers. There was no communication with the southern part of the State except by semi-monthly steamer.</P>
005.sgm:<P>On looking back through the vista of the past thirty years I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>At that time California had no literature. Among its scenery and people there were mines of romance and poetry as rich in their way as even the plains and mountains of gold, and as virgin of efforts at development as they had been so lately. The author of "Ramona" had not risen to so pathetically depict the wrongs of the despised, though semi-civilized Indians. That gifted, though shameless, vagabond, "The Poet of the Sierras," had not woven his poetic warp through the woof of its longitudinal valleys and mountains to draw in its meshes before our eyes his creative imagery from</P>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The quail who was piping all day long,<LB>For the rabbit to dance in the chaparral,"</HI>
005.sgm:<P>and that being but little higher in the scale of life, the "Digger"Indian, to the best types of Californian humanity, and from the lowliest valleys to the loftiest mountain peaks.  Bret Harte had not come to arrange the rough miner, the polished gambler, the proud Spaniard and humble half-breed, the pious Father, the vulgar new-enriched woman, the respectable though scheming "school-marm" and the Cyprian adventuress, into a grand octave, and play upon it with his deft fingers such tunes as would echo around the world.  It is true that the latter tried to make the one good deed of an Oakhurst cover up the vile doings of a life-time, and that he assumed that whoever made a profession was necessarily a hypocrite.  But <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>At that time the Indian was considered as a nuisance to be abated by bullet and starvation; the Chinese as objects of oppression and robbery; the old-time Spanish aristocracy as proprietors of stealable lands; and the remnant of mission priests as pious frauds.  A Californian historian said in substance: "The Indians are in the way of State progress; the sooner they are out of the way the better.  Should their protectors, the Fathers, try to preserve them, well, then sweep the Fathers away too!"  Such was the sentiment of the American-Californian.   Everybody and everything which did not minister to greed for wealth must be stamped out.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I stayed in San Francisco two weeks waiting for the steamer for the States.  With the Geysers, the Big Trees and the Yosemite within my reach (these curiosities which Eastern tourists now go thousands of miles to see) within a hundred miles or so, I confined my travels to the boundaries of the city. My humble way of life in the State had prevented me from hearing of them, and, had it been different, I was so anxious to go home on my earnings that I doubt if I would have visited these noted scenes.  I did not even go to Sacramento, although the Competition had reduced the fare to fifty cents.  I have many times regretted that I did not make better use of my opportunities, but 'tis ever thus!  But then this neglect of opportunities has its compensation.  The reader is spared a reiterated account of the above-named wonders, with a chance of it being a guide-book rehash of scenery afflicted with lackadaisical names, of trees of unbelievable sizes, and so on to the bitter end. Nowadays these descriptions are generally "skipped," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>My first business after coming to San FrancisCo was to get my draft cashed.  Sathers &amp; Church, whom it was on, hesitated about paying it, as my signature had failed to come with it, that it might be compared with my present writing. Although anxious to go home, I had money in plenty for temporary use, and would rather go to work again than arouse the bankers' Suspicions with persistence. I was about to tell them to return the draft, and prepare to hunt permanent employment, when they told me they would pay me, which conclusion they perhaps came to through my indifference.  Taking the proffered gold I repaired to the hotel, and from its welcoming portals made many a <HI REND="italics">sortie</HI>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVIII. A San Francisco Day.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>QUEEN of the Pacific Coast!  Fair city whose changing skies for half the year shower down mist and rain, and the other half sunbeams of molten brass! Metropolis of alternate sticky mud and blinding dust! in spite of these and more thou art a city of my heart, O Ciudad de San Francisco!</P>
005.sgm:<P>The morning, as befits the month of April in that clime, is warm and sultry.  Breakfast is over, and I sit in front of my hotel reading the morning paper drowsily, or listlessly watching the surroundings.  Along comes the daily waterman, with his tank on wheels, to serve his customers, for San Francisco has no water works.  The people are supplied in this way, the indispensable fluid being hauled from distant springs and furnished at so much per week.  The waterman is quick-motioned and dexterous, and the way he works is quite refreshing to my spring-fevered brain.  Close following comes the brawny butcher and the mealy baker.  Then come little accordeon and tambourine girls, who Sing with precocious voices to music more or less sweet.  They move familiarly among the loungers, asking for money; young in years, but already old in sin.</P>
005.sgm:<P>As the sun swings up like a censer, the heat pours from it faster.  To save myself from going to sleep I throw away my  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Sail-furled ships with their net-like shrouds and tapering masts in numbers are riding at anchor in the bay, or are chained, like restive bull-dogs, to the wharves.  Clumsy square-rigged craft from the Sacramento, San Joaquin and the lesser tributaries of the bay are rising and falling with the swell, or heavily bumping their slimy sides against the piers.  Above me is a huge Panama steamer, slowly shifting with the tide.  Far out in the bay is a man-of-war, its deathful guns diabolically grinning through many a port.  It is the French frigate "Eurydice," lately arrived after a long voyage.  A gig is lowered, and as it nears I see in it the captain and some of his under-officers coming to the city.  With measured stroke the boat darts into a dock and halts at a clumsy stairway. The officers mount these to the wharf, all glittering in epaulettes and gold lace.  There is an American man-of-war's man in the vicinity who, on a furlough, or to suit his convenience, has come down to "Frisco" from his ship at the navy yard at Vallejo.  He has been drinking freely, and feels jolly, sarcastic and adventurous.  He speaks sneeringly of the French sailors manning the gig, and tells them--only they don't understand him--that his ship can whip a dozen such as theirs.  He is bantered to go and shake hands with the French captain, and vows he will do it. Giving the quid in his squirrel-like cheek another roll, he marches forward, his gait combining the roll of the quarter-deck with the stagger of the drunkard.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I walk over to the San Antonio Ferry. A boat is lying there ready to start.  It costs but two bits to cross, and I go aboard. The signal rings and the boat darts out among the waves. How the waters sparkle in the meridian sunlight!  A cool breeze is coming through the Golden Gate.  It fans my throbbing brow and drives away the <HI REND="italics">ennui</HI>
005.sgm: which has hung over me like an incubus since morning.  Little "white caps" are disporting on the crests of the more sedate overgrown waves. The white sails of the river craft are swelled to life from their limber lethargy and flap and bend before the welcome breeze, slowly dragging their cumbrous burdens along. White-breasted sea-gulls, big and little, go flying over the water or suddenly dive below.  I am across the bay, and the boat lies moored at Oakland.  I remember it as the town from whence I started on my tramp for work.  I see the prairie before me and the mountain beyond over which I wearily walked, and I feel thankful that I am not on the same journey again!  The plain of Contra Costa, then clouded in mist, is now bright and green, and so is the ridge beyond.  The boat doubles on its course and returns and I am again in San Francisco.  Here comes John Chinaman, transplanted representative of pigtailed Orientalism, trigged out in all the oddity of his national clothing.  His cap, with its rim turned up at a sharp angle, seems especially adapted for catching rain.  His collarless coat of blue hangs loosely about him and eke his short ample breeches.  Jealous of his queue is John.  Time was when maliciously disposed Americans would slip up behind him and cut it off--the production of a lifetime.  Nothing could outrage John's dignity more; sooner would he lose his head. But his rights are better protected than of yore, and these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>My walk brings me to a quarter of the city inhabited by these strange people.  I can easily imagine myself on the other side of the Pacific.  Chinamen, Chinawomen, boys, girls and babies.  Shops filled with Chinese toggery, presided over by a Chinese clerk.  Chinese literary depots where books are sold which you begin reading at the back end and read up the page instead of across.  Collections of drugs made from all kinds of vile and outlandish sources.  Opium dens where groups smoke their worthless lives away.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I go to the Plaza.  It bears about as much resemblance to our public squares as does the Sahara Desert to the Grand Prairie.  The stunted trees look as if a simoon had been through them, and the yellow grass peeps timidly above the gravel.  Unattractive as this promenade is, it is the best our transmundane metropolis affords.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Still hotter glows the sun on this pent-up place.  Its brassy beams leap down to the earth, rebound and nearly blind me.</P>
005.sgm:<P>To-day there is a parade.  Even now it is passing through the Plaza.  There is an orator and poet of the day, who ride at the head of the column in a barouche drawn by four prancing grays.  A halo of self-complacency surrounds them. The poet of the day has a poem in his side pocket which is badly rhymed, badly metred and lacking sense.  The orator is ready to burst with his suppressed eloquence.  There is a brass band with shining horns and stunning drums, and their laborious strains make my head ache.  There are horsemen, grenadiers and "citizens generally."  On the high side of the Plaza an artillery company is posted which fires off deafening shots.  Somehow, owing to the hot sun, the sulphurous condition of the air, the blare of band or din of cannon, I don't appreciate the scene.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I am again at the wharf.  The opposition steamers to Sacramento are ready to Start.  Runners with tickets to Sell are capering about buttonholing suppositious passengers and villifying one another.  "Sydney coves," "escaped convicts" are amongst the mildest of the names bandied about; while, imitating the quarrels of humanity on shore, numerous seagulls dart and dive, soar and swoop and scream and croak <illus entity="a005-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE PLAZA, SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
005.sgm:as they wrangle over and in the water for edible <HI REND="italics">flotsam</HI>
005.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">jetsam</HI>
005.sgm:<P>It is afternoon; the air is growing cooler, for a sea-breeze is stirring it up.  It is reviving, and I stroll to the hills north of the city overlooking the waters leading to the Golden Gate.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I return to the wharf.  The steamer from the States has been telegraphed and is momentarily expected.  It rounds the peninsula and soon bumps against the pier, and the eager passengers tumble pell-mell down the crowded gangway.  A crowd of hotel runners, wharf-rats and loungers are crowding around the reporters and the few welcoming friends of the emigrants.  Almost suffocated by the yelling, surging crowd, I am glad to get away, leaving the greenhorns to the tender mercies of the sharpers and runners.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I am once more in the heart of the city and on the fashionable promenade.  Gaily attired women of varying characters rustle by me in those silks and satins, scarlets and velvets which Franklin notes as kitchen fire extinguishers.  To those who have been living for months on a lonely ranch or in an isolated mining camp the sight is a novelty indeed.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Again at the Plaza.  An omnibus is about starting on its hourly trip to the Mission Dolores.  I am curious to see this venerable reminder of the sway of the Spanish fathers, so I pay my "bit," jump in the coach and am soon rolling over a smooth plank road to the Mission of Sorrows.  The two miles intervening are sandy and uninteresting, and I am glad when we arrive in front of the old adobe sanctuary.  A quaint old church it is with its unhewn rafters, its three large bells arranged in a triangle in the gable, and its stuccoed columns in <HI REND="italics">bas relief</HI>
005.sgm: it is the work of the rude Indian converts, who less than a hundred years ago were gathered from heathen barbarism into the folds of the Catholic Church by the preaching and unselfish efforts of the old Spanish <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
005.sgm:.  Adjoining is the Campo Santo, or Holy Field, where lie buried the dead of generations.  Here are inscriptions in many tongues, graven <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The sun slowly sinks below the hills back of the Mission Dolores, and the visitors are departing from the shrine of their pilgrimage.  Twilight is mantling the graveyard, and in its shadows one can almost imagine he sees the cowled monks standing rebukingly among the tombs before the representatives of a race whose progress was so antagonistic to their labors. With uncanny thoughts I close the clanging gates and leave the abode of death for the congenial society of the living.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIX. The Bit Theatre.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO is a city of theatres.  With but a sixth part of the population (in 1858) of Philadelphia, it can boast of almost as many places of amusement.  From Maguire's Opera House down, through intermediate grades to the lowest <HI REND="italics">cafe chantant</HI>
005.sgm:<P>In my walks about the city my attention had often been drawn toward those abodes of the minor drama through the mediums of glaring posters.  These, after describing the features of the coming entertainment, short dramas, acrobatic feats, singing and dancing, conspicuously remarked that the best liquor could be had for twelve and a half cents; thus putting the professions of the stage and bar on an equal footing.</P>
005.sgm:<P>In 1858 the part of the city, covering what once had been the bay, had so extended that a view parallel with the front <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:and taking in the upper town made San Francisco resemble a recumbent giantess, a little tipsy, or rather "half Seas over," with her feet in the water, and with the contents of her wide-spreading lap in danger of dropping through the fragile apron.  Beneath the flat, where now were filth and mud, and the swash of waves as they climbed and fell back from the <illus entity="a005-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO IN 1847.</P>
005.sgm:slimy wharf timbers, once ships were moored, and here, deserted by their gold-greedy crews, some lay rotting, until enclosed by wharf and street they became absorbed in the growing town.  The architecture of this built-over portion was shabby enough, and consisted mainly of warehouses, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>One day in my saunterings over this portion of the city I came across one of the places of amusement heading this chapter.  It was of no greater pretension than scores of the rickety buildings surrounding it, except that it was of two stories.  The bar-room was as prominent a part of the premises as the liquor announcement was of the posters, as the audience was forced to pass through it to get to the "auditorium."</P>
005.sgm:<P>The manager was Miss Rowena Granice, whether an assumed or real name I don't know.  I saw her in the trying light of day standing--leaning from a sort of inside balcony above the bar-room--like another Juliet, or rather like the grandmother of that interesting young woman, although on her face paint, powder and paste had done their work, until she looked like a flamboyant fright: an exemplification of the conflict we are warring with time, and of the fact that we may apply pigment and dye, we may pad and bewig, and wrap our forms in the gay robes of youth, only to see what we are trying to fend off come back like a pent-up flood, and, washing off cosmetic and color, and obliterating our other shams, deliver the human humbug to Old Age's grim follower.  The Romeo who played to this Juliet was a rotund German, who, from his position on the bar-room floor, invited her to step down from her perch and take a drink with him; a request she coyly agreed to.</P>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Miss Rowena, in spite of this uncomplimentary introduction, seemed like one who had been the possessor of good looks and an actress of note, but who, on account of loss of personal attractions rather than of professional ability, had been obliged to leave more aristocratic boards for this humble theatre.  Enterprising, if old and faded, she had managed her "Gaieties" until it was at the head of its class.</P>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Facilis decencus Averni</HI>
005.sgm:<P>The view on entering was unique.  Enveloped in dense fumes of tobacco, the audience was drinking and talking.  It was a <HI REND="italics">melange</HI>
005.sgm:<P>I secured a seat near the stage.  For companion I had a specimen of the genus small boy, the lad who gets familiar and ends by getting impudent.  I found him throughout the evening a source of entertainment and general information. As a theatrical critic he was good--for his age.  He was well acquainted with the three minor actors, who were young like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:himself.  As there was no way from the Street to the stage except through the auditorium, the players were obliged to make ingress among the audience.  As they passed us my little friend addressed them in quite a familiar way, though, to do him justice, more from a desire to show me his acquaintance with them than from any lack of respect.  Not so with some of his fellows.  These spoke to them in words neither becoming nor complimentary.  The young actors bore these pin thrusts into their dignity with the <HI REND="italics">nonebalanee</HI>
005.sgm: of veteran tragedians when receiving sentient attention from a demonstrative lobby.  Disappearing through a side door they left the audience anxiously expecting their reappearance.  At length the bell announcing the rising of the curtain was heard, and simultaneous with its ringing there was a hush in the ubiquitous conversation and clink of glasses, and soon commenced the performance of " Brigham Young; or, The Prophet's Dream."  This was a mixture of comedy and tragedy, the former preponderating.  The Prophet was represented by a celebrated acrobat, whose main <HI REND="italics">forte</HI>
005.sgm: was in tying himself up in bow-knots, but who, in a pinch, could figure in the drama. His Sultana was the ripe-aged Miss Rowena, his other wives being represented by three juvenile actors, arrayed in female garments, and who created a great amount of amusement by their efforts to adapt themselves to their parts.  The only efforts made to carry dignity into the play were by the two leading characters, and, to do them justice, they did well under trying circumstances; but, alas! their efforts were not appreciated by their listeners, who would loudly laugh at and guy them during affecting scenes. Unasked-for advice and unseemly remarks would discompose the Sultana while in heroic attitude she prepared to slay the faithless Prophet, while the high-tragedy voice and action of the latter were turned into ridicule.  Especially were assaults made on the dignity of poor Brigham when, after performing in an affecting scene, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>During the performance of this play my friend, the small boy, rendered me great service.  Entertaining me with critiques on the actors and their style, he told me the names of his friends as they came upon the scene.  My small boy was of the dignified pattern, and did not join his fellows in their ridicule of the actors, but confined his remarks to me, ,as also the smoke of a large cigar he was puffing.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Following the play was a series of acrobatic feats by the late Brigham, and then a dance by one of the boys.  Next came a song by a little girl of twelve years, who, on account of the homeliness of her last name, was simply known as "Miss Lottie" on the bills.  The dance was accomplished to the entire satisfaction of the audience, but, owing to hoarseness, Lottie broke down amid the "Shells of the Ocean." Thrice she essayed the effort and as often failed.  The miners, many of whom had known her when among the mountains on a professional tour, sympathized with her condition as much as they wanted to hear her Sing, and it was amusing to listen to them in their rough but kind tones encouraging her to go on. At last, getting into a pet at her failure, she ran off the stage amid the applause of her friends.  I did not know I would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The performance was over, and by this time the lights in the vitiated air were burning blue.  Odors at variance with those of "Araby the Blest" filled the air from the floor to the ceiling.  The attentions of the waiters on their guests had had their natural effect. The drinking part of the audience was getting uproarious.  Omens of a continuation of the evening performances were making themselves manifest, and, thinking a bed in a hotel preferable to a muss in a place like this, I left the "Gaietie," and, passing through the thronged bar-room, emerged to the silent and gloomy world without.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Such is a description of an evening's entertainment at a "Bit Theatre," one of the institutions of San Francisco.  Conducted and patronized by a class less reputable than those belonging to places of amusement of higher pretensions, I will say that at this particular theatre there was nothing said or acted on the stage of an offensive nature, which is praise, even if of the negative kind.  Furnishing amusement to their miscellaneous audiences through their very incompetencies, the actors philosophically bore the indignities heaped upon them, probably finding consolation in the maxim:</P>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>A shilling often for a kick atones;<LB>And what's a drubbing so it breaks no bones?</HI>
005.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XX. Homeward Bound--Southward.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>THE time for my departure for the "States" had come at last. For some days previous to this there had been much unseemly canvassing among prospective passengers by the" runners" of the two opposition steamers which were to sail on the same day for Panama.  I thought the subagents of the contending river boats were bad enough in the free use of Billingsgate toward one another in their wordy fighting over passengers; but their more pretentious brethren went beyond them by getting up blood-curdling posters, much to the unsettling of the minds of intending travelers.  One of these would be headed--over a cut of an old -time casket:--</P>
005.sgm:<P>BEWARE OF THE FLOATING COFFIN!!</P>
005.sgm:<P>followed by some points in the decaying make-up of that vessel.  The other poster in a glaring headline would start with something like</P>
005.sgm:<P>LOOK OUT FOR THE OCEAN DEATH-TRAP!!</P>
005.sgm:<P>with the words following similarly grim and savoring of the King of Terrors.  These hand-bills so unnerved me, that if I had had a chance to work my passage home on an ox-train I would have taken up with it.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The steamers were the "Golden Gate" and the "Orizaba," on which last I engaged passage.  This was known as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>At last we are in a position to move; and now the excitement is at the top notch.  Separating friends bestow the parting greeting for the hundredth time, while the book, newspaper and fruit venders unite in one yelling chorus to impress us with the chances we are wasting in Seeing such bargains slip away.  As our departure becomes additionally imminent the tumult on the wharf increases, and the fruit peddlers, seeing no hope of selling us anything more, are so moved by generous impulses as to sling the more damaged portions of their goods at us as tokens of remembrances, So that we had some decayed specimens of tropical fruitage to eat between meals.  The news and medicine venders, and dispensers of bologna sausage and other delicacies, which the steerage passengers may yearn for, make one more effort; friends again send affectionate messages from the lonely wharf to the high deck, and the reverse; the rowdy element shouts; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Soon San Francisco with its memories is far astern, and, sailing through the channel leading to the Golden Gate, we are soon beyond the limits of that rock-strewn portal and out on the bosom of the Pacific.  So farewell to the amphibious city of the west coast, to its grand bay and its tributary rivers and their rich valleys, and farewell to the beautiful and quaint towns and lone rancheros I passed in troublous pilgrimage, for I am off to new scenes.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Turning southward we sped down the coast of California, which, for much of the way, was only a faint cloud-bank on our port bow, and afterward not even this was visible, and we lost all sight of land.  On the 6th we saw a herd, or a school, or a flock, whichever term is correct, of whales, but we had no time to catch them.  On the 9th we came in sight of land. This was the "Marguerites," a group of islands belonging to Mexico.  They were barren and rocky, but still a relief to the vision weary with the watery plain around us.</P>
005.sgm:<P>For economical reasons I had taken passage in the steerage. The fare was $52.50, the odd $2.50 being an export tax; that in the cabin was $200, and in the intermediate $150.  The "Opposition" had reduced the rate fifty per cent.  In the steerage was an unpleasant mode of traveling; but I thought I would feel just as well, after getting to New York, as if I had led the Sybaritic life of those in the first cabin, where they had four meals a day, with a lunch between, gilt mirrors to look into, plush-covered furniture to lounge on by day and cosy state-rooms to sleep in at night.  Our sleeping places were the two lower decks, and our beds rude bunks where we slept, from three to seven, side by side, on straw matresses.  I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
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005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The water-butt, from which throughout the day we quenched our thirst, was near the bow, and access to the contents was through a small hole in the top by letting down a deep, narrow cup with a string.  The water was good at first, but grew worse until it got as bad as it could be, when it improved; on the same principle, perhaps, that wine gets better by ocean transit.  To be sure the liquid was bad enough from being so warm, but then we had the advantage of the cabin passengers who were obliged to use ice water, which is notoriously hurtful from the bacteria in it.  They were also forced to use fresh water to bathe in, while we had nothing but the best of salt water drawn fresh from the sea, per rope and bucket.  When it is known what miles the wealthiest of our people will travel for a chance to wash in ocean brine, our position can be appreciated.  Then we were ahead of the ship aristocracy in another way, as we in the forward part were always nearer home.  So that, taking it all in all, we had the advantage.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I suppose three-fifths or more of the passengers were in the steerage.  As there were about one thousand on board, how closely we were packed can be imagined.  We slept in rows, and from lack of confidence in my fellows I thought while sleeping.  Did one on either side of me shift his position the least I would arouse, finding my hand on my money belt, so that my senses were on the watch whether I was awake or Dot.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The reader need not think that a steerage passage was a synonym for poverty.  There were thousands of dollars in gold or drafts among the forward passengers.  I believe there was more money there than about the cabin.  The miners, no matter how well off were more at home among the unconventionalities of steerage life and took it of choice, and though some sported knives and revolvers, I became acquainted with many quiet, worthy men in the steerage.</P>
005.sgm:<P>A noted person in the cabin was General William Walker, a filibuster, who was then on his road to Central America to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>On the 12th we came in sight of the chain of desolate mountains which fringes the southwestern coast of Mexico. Continuing we came to the harbor of Acapulco, and winding between the rocky islands and promontories which arose around us, we came to anchor at 4 o'clock opposite the town. Here we found our rival,the "Golden Gate," the "Oregon" and a large collier, from which We got a supply of coal before leaving.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We had hardly dropped anchor before a number of natives swam out to us.  With their dark features, wild eyes and shaggy hair, they looked like so many sea-imps while disporting around us as we lay three hundred yards from shore. They howled to us to throw "dimeys" and "picayuneys" into the sea, and then see how they would bring them up.  Those who were rich enough to invest did so, and following the coins with their sharp eyes, the divers soon brought them to the surface, and shouted for more "dimeys."  They stayed in the water hours at a time.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Several boats manned--if this term is admissible in reference to such people--by the wretched looking natives soon put off from shore for the purpose of carrying such of us to land as wanted to go.  Many of us went.  There was no landing-place; we simply got our boats as near dry land as possible, and jumped ashore on the sandy beach which extends front of the town.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Acapulco makes a picturesque appearance from the bay, with its low, white buildings shaded by tropical trees, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
005.sgm:, or public square, of Acapulco was a lively place in the afternoon.  One side was taken up by the stands of venders of all sorts of merchandize, who were shouting forth the merits and cheapness of their wares. They would waylay passengers, and if they could not induce them to buy, they would roll out some sonorous and trilled Spanish oath. At one place an old hag was presiding over a gambling table, where she was dealing " <HI REND="italics">moute</HI>
005.sgm:<P>When I wrote my notes of travel, or rather, when I amplified them on my arrival home, the temptation was strong and often yielded to, to use foreign terms in my descriptions, and to give the words spoken by Indian or Mexican in their own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>To look at this town, with its low, white buildings, its thatched huts, its tropical vegetation, and its swarthy people, one could easily imagine himself in some country on the Barbary coast, and not in progressive North America and a free republic, and I was much amused and interested in what I saw during my short stay there.</P>
005.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
005.sgm: and its odd sights I ascended the side of a rocky hill overlooking the town, as well as the bay and its shelter of capes and islands.  The lower side of the hill was dotted with straw huts, the lazy owners of which were swinging in their hammocks or seated on the ground smoking, while their women were grinding corn and baking the dough therefrom on Sat stones set at an angle before an open fire, their naked children the meanwhile rolling in the sand or playing with the gaunt pigs and dogs of the town.  Buzzards as big as turkey-gobblers were seated around on projecting rocks, looking pensively on the congenial scenes around, and so tame that they would allow us to come within a few paces, when they would flap their wings, and with a disagreeable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Crossing over to the fort I passed an open hut containing a stand on which was seated an old, old man with his hands clasped in front of his shins, like those of a Peruvian mummy. His knees were drawn up against his breast, and around him was wrapped an old blanket, above which projected his parchment-colored face.  He looked so like exhumed death that I was startled when he feebly nodded to me, and could imagine the dried muscle crackling in the exertion.  In fact, taking him for all in all, his cadaverous appearance and sepulchral voice, one might have thought he was inaugurating the resurrection.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The Castillo, or fort, which was situated on a broad knoll commanding the harbor, as well as the town, was quadrangular and surrounded by a walled moat, across which was one of the old-fashioned drawbridges we read about, and which mailed knights clattered merrily over when the besieged did not get it pulled up in Season.  In these modern times a well-directed cannon shot would have loosened the fastening and sent the fly-trap thundering down.  The fort was mounted by some hundred rusty cannon, and garrisoned by a company of what would have been cut-throat soldiers did they not lack energy to do violent deeds.  They were uniformed in white pantaloons, ragged shirt and straw hat, and looked as if they would run at the first appearance of an enemy.  What I have seen of Spanish-American soldiers makes me think how little we should boast of our victories over the Mexican troops during our disgraceful war with their country, particularly when we take into consideration the factional wars then waging in Mexico.  These soldiers were armed with flintlocks, and had plugs in the muzzles to keep out dampness and save cleaning. They were also uniformed with bare feet, which enabled them, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:when their guns were thrown down, to be ready for a celeritous run in case an enemy would ever venture into such a wretched country, a country whose most reliant defense against an unacclimated foe is the yellow fever.  The  fort was built one hundred years ago, and was skilfully constructed.  The chief occupation of the garrison was to guard a chain-gang, who, on their backs, were carrying sand and lime for the use of some convict masons who were repairing the fort.  Walking two and two over the sharp stones, with one hand steadying the sack and the other holding up a rattling chain, these felons seemed walking exemplifications of the maximum, "The way of the transgressor is hard."  The wretches did not feel their degradation, but with brutal jest and laugh beguiled their labor.  Just outside the fort was a government smith shop, the Vulcan of which was chained to his Cyclopian "beezer" by a chain, and so well was the apprentice "indentured and firmly bound" to his master, that if this plan had been adopted a generation ago there would have been fewer advertisements in contemporaneous newspapers of "one horseshoe-nail reward."  When I saw the chances this twain had for severing the tie which bound them, I thought what a successful strike they might make for their freedom if they tried.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Who would be free himself must strike the blow,"</HI>
005.sgm:<P>and if there is a hammer and cold-chisel by, so much the easier; but, alas for these fellows, the propinquity of two soldiers with loaded muskets prevented them from exercising their ingenuities.</P>
005.sgm:<P>By the time I came back to the <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
005.sgm: the short-lived twilight of the tropics had given way to darkness, and the booths were lighted up, making the scene quite lively.  Two musicians, on violin and flute, were giving the "Orizabians" some sweet music; but the strains were so short and so often repeated, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Fearing that we might be left in this miserable town I moved down to the sandy shore, and, after running the gauntlet between rows of yelling boatmen, I jumped into one of the numerous craft, and shooting out into the darkness, the swarthy Charon, reversing the usual course of that mythological personage, took me from Death to Life.  I may be straining a point in the simile, but I will let it stand, as Acapulco was certainly an abode of death, both morally and otherwise, while on the "Orizaba" we had life on the ocean wave such as it was.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We were nearly all night coaling the steamer.  The coal was all carried in sacks on the backs of the men from one vessel to another, and the grimy procession of native carriers, under the glare of torches, made an impressive scene.  We hoisted the anchor before sunrise, however, and put to sea, glad that we were once more on our homeward way and leaving such a den of badness behind.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Time passed slowly on board our vessel.  Some of us arose by sunrise, although at that time we ran chances of being swamped by the sailors while washing down the decks, as, by accident, they often threw water on those who got in their way.  We drew water from the salt, salt sea and washed, a group at a time; until by turns all who cared to wash had pickled themselves, and  then  been  rasped off with a common towel, which operation was in itself a species of dry salting.  Then, in season, we went to breakfast, and, standing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:in rows along swinging tables, drank our coffee whose main strength lay in the water, and ate our salt junk whose main strength lay in its smell, and between the two worried down some hard tack. The sad ceremony over, we lounged away the time until noon, killing it in ways as various as our natures. Some read, some told yarns, some continually got themselves in places where they were sworn out by the mate on duty, many smoked, and several "fought the tiger " in the hopeless task of winning at " <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Thus we spent our days on the ocean, twenty-two in all, and wearisome days they were.  The same sea-sights, the same people to look at and talk to, the same recurrence of meals composed of a similarity of unpalatable materials, the same diurnal discomforts from the tropic heat.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>On the 14th we entered the Gulf of Tehuantepec, and in crossing it we had a rough passage.  As we proceeded, on account of the curve of the coast, we often saw land, sometimes in mountain sides, thickly covered with tangled vegetation coming abruptly to the water's edge.  The air grew warmer and more oppressive, and the sun as we neared the isthmus was directly overhead at noon, so we stood on our shadows.  Heavy showers sometimes kept us below deck.</P>
005.sgm:<P>On the 18th we entered Panama Bay, the shores and islands of which were clothed in the most vivid green.  Late in the afternoon we anchored within three miles of Panama.</P>
005.sgm:<P>This old town is in the Republic of Colombia, and occupies a tongue of land reaching out into a bay so shallow that vessels of eighty tons can only come within two miles, while passenger steamers must anchor a mile further out, near an island called Perico.  This, like the other islands which make the harbor, was green with rank vegetation to the water's edge; a tangle of vines and mammoth-leaved plants and parasite-clad trees which seemed rife with disease.  The little steamer commonly used to carry passengers ashore was out of repair, so we were obliged to make use of small boats, a whole fleet of which put off from shore to meet us.  When they came alongside a rush was made for them by the passengers, who looked like a human cataract, as laughing, cursing and yelling they poured down the stairway into the boats which, as fast as loaded, pulled ashore.  The boat I was in was one of the first, and was so full that it nearly swamped more than once in the three miles row.  When we reached the shore, there being no wharf, we had to ride "pig-a-back" on the shoulders of men in waiting, whom we had to pay.  It seemed to me that the boatmen purposely stopped at parts of the shore which would require the services of these marine porters, and thus the thousand, more or less, of humanity which for two weeks had made the "Orizaba" their home got to shore.</P>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXI. Homeward Bound--Northward.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>ENTERING the city by a picturesque though crumbling gateway which pierced the southern wall, I passed the Grand Cathedral, and, wending my way through some dark, narrow streets, stopped at the "American Hotel," where for two dollars I bought a chance for breakfast -supper being out of the question-and the privilege of sleeping on the floor, which done I took a walk around the city. The walled portion was a half mile square, and in it were fifteen massive churches, besides schools and convents, many of them in ruins.  Panama was once the wealthiest city in the New World, as through it passed the trade between Spain and her South American Colonies; but little business is done here now, and many of the grand buildings are tumbling to ruins. The population is but eleven thousand.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The houses which lined the narrow streets in the best part of the town were lofty and faced with balconies, on which were seated the better class of people, chatting in quite a lively sort of way.  The soldiers I saw were uniformed gaily, and strutted along as if responsible for much.  Itinerant and sedentary merchants of all manner of goods, from whisky to Panama hats, were shrilly enumerating the merits and cheapness of them, and sturdy little donkies, heavily laden with wood, water-casks and vegetables, worked their way through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The "American Hotel," from its massiveness, might have been some ecclesiastical building. In the courtyard was a huge tank, and around it several of the ship's passengers, in a state of nature, were taking an upright bath under the manipulations of as many black grooms. Above some wordy warfare among these human hostlers I heard some one say, "I'm no Jamaica nigger; I'm from Bucks County, Pennsylvania, I am." These words so startled me that I went among the splashing bathers, and singling the speaker out found his name to be Robert Grose, and that he had once lived with Stacy Brown, of Brownsburg. He had drifted here, where he was stranded until he could get away. Among the outlandish Jamaica negroes with whom he had been confounded he seemed like a lost black sheep. He was overjoyed to see one from his own native county, and was anxious to get back again.</P>
005.sgm:<P>At 9 o'clock the notes of a bugle rang out upon the air as a signal for all citizens and strangers within the gates to get to their homes, permanent or temporary, or go to the calaboose. Hardly had the tantarara died away before the idlers and street merchants were hurrying home.  The day's excitement being ended I betook myself to a large hall in the hotel, where, among a host of others, I lay down; but sleep was impossible for a long time. The sickly season was beginning; the air was damp and sultry, and it seemed to me as if Death was around picking out victims.  The building seemed to Swing to and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Although we had paid for our breakfast in advance, many of us got none through the landlord's rascality, as the train left before half could get to the table, but as it did not look fit to eat, it made little matter.  We had been told the night before the cars left at 9 o'clock, when 6 was the hour.  Our way to the terminus was through the eastern gate, and then amid the suburbs of thatched huts which lay along the margin of the bay.  The half-wild denizens were all ready for us, and with pernicious activity waylaid us with fruits, corals, seashells, whisky, cigars, monkeys, squirrels, parrots and similar goods, dead and alive.  We were much amused at a monkey-merchant, whose wares had been captured in the neighboring forest.  In his efforts to show the tameness of one of his half-human Specimens, that he might the easier sell it, it got away from him and struck a bee-line for its former home.  The last we saw of the twain their speed was so nearly matched that we were in doubt as to the result of the race.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The starting of the train rid us of these mercantile pests, and we were soon rolling over the fever-breeding swamp which marks the first section of the Isthmian crossing.  The lives lost in building this road were fearfully numerous; but thirty years since they are being more than duplicated in digging the canal.  When we came to the ridge we used two locomotives to ascend it, and from its slope we took our last view of the Pacific near where Balboa had his first, and also of the ruined old city on its shore.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Nothing could exceed the denseness, luxuriance and gigantic proportions of the vegetation through which we rode. The surface of the fever-breeding slope was covered with a matting of creeping vines above which rose a growth of mammoth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Though since dwarfed by the great enterprise of De Lesseps, the building of this railroad was a great undertaking when we think of the natural obstacles to be surmounted; but when we consider that the placing of each tie severed a human life, we are tempted to wish it had never been built.  Thousands died in its construction, but at last the road was built, and now the shrieking locomotive, like the Juggernaut of India, rolls over a road-bed of human corpses, drawing in its wake a living freight, which concerns itself little of the sacrifices made for its convenience.</P>
005.sgm:<P>We frequently stalled in the ascent, although we had but one section of the passengers.  At the summit the rear engine was sent back to help up the other half.  The descent was quickly made down the valley of the Chagres.  On this river we passed some collections of huts, whose people were lounging about them.  We cannot expect much snap in a community which can pick its dinners off of trees as wanted, and don't have to build a fire to cook them.  Crossing the Chagres on an iron bridge we rolled into the modern built city of Aspinwall.  Here we met a ship load of people who were to fill the vacancies we left in California.  How they plied us with questions, and how patronizingly we answered these "tenderfeet." How differently were the two portions situated; one having seen the elephant, the other just entering the menagerie!</P>
005.sgm:<P>The people of Aspinwall, like those of Acapulco and Panama, live on the pickings they get from travelers passing </P>
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005.sgm:<P>through.  We experienced the Same vicissitudes as in the last named places, although the pirates were more villainous looking.  Many of these were Jamaica negroes, and a more repulsive set of beings I never saw, unless they were the Diggers on the Great Desert.  Some were giants with feet like those of "Dandy Jim of Caroline." Many of the venders were females, who, in their outlandish English, addressed us affectionately as "Come my lub, buy dis bottle Jamaky rum, brot it from dar meself;" or, "Here honey, hab one dese big pine-apples." They looked like scant-frocked gorillas.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Our Atlantic steamer was the "Northern Light," which we boarded in the afternoon.  In San Francisco we had our berths, such as they were, numbered, so that there was no confusion; but here the earliest bird got the choicest worm; thus there was much rushing and crowding to get bunks on the first deck.  Each one had to show his ticket, and "stowaways" had a poor show.  There were several of these who beat their way from San Francisco, and in their impudence boasted of their doings. But one of these got on to the "Northern Light." He was a rowdy New York boy, who, when he was refused passage, watched his opportunity, jumped into the water, climbed up the paddle wheel and got through an opening to the deck when he was discovered.  The officers were going to put him ashore, but he pleaded so hard and looked so forlorn in his drenched clothes that he was allowed to continue on his way by working his passage heaving coal.  He was a "Bowery Boy," and had been full of his pranks; but now, when we saw him, he was crestfallen enough, and so remained until his old haunts on the Battery met his gaze.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Whenever we left a port the people showed the greatest regret, which was greatly to our credit.  At Aspinwall they crowded on the wharf, and howled and yelled and swore as they thrust long poison=filled bottles at us, and pine-apples and bunches of bananas, and so continued until the vessel left.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>Aspinwall is underlaid with a coral reef, and the water is so bad that for drinking purposes the people depend on huge cisterns, which are filled in the rainy season.  To supply the ship-tank we were obliged to diverge from our homeward course and proceed down the New Grenada coast for twenty-five miles, where we took in water.  I was glad of this, as it gave me a chance to see the scene of an exploit I read of in my young school days in "Parley's History;" namely, the capture of Porto Bello by the buccaneer Morgan and his piratical gang.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Had we been under the Equatorial sun the weather could not have been hotter or the scenery more tropical than what we saw and felt while going down the coast.  The high mountain shores were covered with a network of vegetation that hid the earth down to the edge of the water which duplicated it in reverse.  The stillness was oppressive, even the beautifully plumaged birds flitting among the fever-suggesting shrubbery being silent.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Slowly steaming along we came before sunset to a scene of picturesque quietude, whose equal I never saw.  This was Porto Bello, the "beautiful harbor," discovered in 1502 by Columbus, and settled one hundred years after.  The ruins of the old town were close to our anchorage, consisting of remains of towers, churches, convents and other buildings, overgrown with tangled vines, and with limbs of trees projecting through the windows, and shrubbery growing from the joints of the stones.  How different from two hundred years ago, when the town was the northern terminus of an isthmus highway, paved with stones and extending over the ridge to Panama. Then Porto Bello was the point of exchange where the gold and silver of Peru met the costly merchandize of Spain, when convoyed by armed vessels it was landed here. At stated times fairs were held, to which the merchants of the western coast of South America came to make their purchases <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The church ornaments and wealth of the town, however, were placed in the castle which defied the pirates.  Morgan made use of a stratagem by which he thought to accomplish his ends without bloodshed.  Collecting the priests and women whom he found in the city, he commanded them to go in advance and plant the scaling ladders, thinking the garrison would not harm them. The heart of the Spanish commander was, however, proof against the prayers of priests or tears of women, and he ordered his men to fire on all who advanced.  His scheme failing, Morgan stormed the castle and secured an immense booty.  Porto Bello never survived this blow, for Spanish commerce was swept from the neighboring waters by this same bold buccaneer.  The fleets which once rode here at anchor are unrepresented now except by the occasional steamers which coma here to water.  So abrupt is the shore that we anchored within twenty yards of it, the slope being covered with tangled vegetation to the lower edge.  The water with which the ships are supplied is from "Columbus' Spring," which, high up the hillside, pours its rich tide from under a mass of rank growing plants, which, through botanic ignorance, I must term mammoth weeds in the likeness of caladiums and ferns.  An iron pipe runs to within connecting distance of vessels, to which a hose is attached, and the tanks quickly filled with the best of water.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The deck was covered with the passengers, who, quietly commenting, looked on the surrounding scene. Birds of beautiful plumage, but voiceless, Sew from bough to bough, preparing for their night's rest. Among these were brilliant parrots and paroquets and others I did not know.  Larger ones, such as pelicans and cranes, Sapped their wings clumsily amid the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The silence about us was really oppressive, and the darkening waters so still that the steamer hardly moved, while the air of that mountain-hedged harbor was sultry beyond endurance. These, with the sight of the ruins, which looked ghastly in the twilight, and as if some of the old Castilian knights and priests, friars and nuns which once dwelt in its castle and convents might crawl out of their former haunts, and, mistaking us for buccaneers, smite us with ancient engines of warfare and harry us with exorcisms and consignments to pits bottomless, gave us such feelings that we grew impatient of delay and glad to leave what had been such a picturesque place, but which now was getting unbearable.</P>
005.sgm:<P>From some unexplained cause we did not leave till midnight, and when we awoke in the morning we were gaily steaming over the Sea of the Caribs.  On the 23d we passed between Cuba and Hayti, and on the 25th entered the warm <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>In the years before I left home I heard a great many satirical things said of the State east of the Delaware.  Would-be smart folks called it Spain and a sand-bank, and its people Spaniards, and sand-pipers, and other cutting names were prevalent.  Perhaps I thought these sayings smart, and in a modest way indulged in them myself.  But when I saw its shores for the first time, after my year of journeying, I was in no mood to indulge in or tolerate the cheap wit of former days. It was the verge of my native land, and I welcomed its unpicturesque, low-lying shores as the threshold of my home.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Soon the shores of Long Island came in view, and, passing by Governor's Island, we steered through a labyrinth of shipping, and at last the "Northern Light" was moored at her dock, just above the Battery.  Now came the hurry and confusion of landing, after which, forcing themselves through a noisy array of hackmen, runners and porters, my thousand shipmates scattered and parted forever.</P>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXII. In New York.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>A  RED-LETTER day in the annals of New York sharpers is the advent of a California steamer.  Hardly is the vessel telegraphed before a fleet of pilot boats start out to meet her, each anxious to be the lucky one which is to act as her escort and be the recipient of her pilotage fee. The boats are furnished with packages of circulars, mainly of hotels, boarding houses and clothing stores, and these are scattered broadcast over the steamer as soon as opportunity offers, and are eagerly read by a community whose literature has been so rare as that on our vessel. Solomon Levi's statements in regard to the merits and cheapness of his clothing are absorbed, without their truth being questioned, by people who look upon them more as a mental entertainment than as schemes for entrapping the unwary into shoddy dispensaries. Peter Hash's account of his luxurious parlors, Sybaritic dining halls and, gorgeous dormitories are enjoyed like romances, and so are the descriptions of the Oriental accommodations of the Occidental Hotel. Weakened by such mental pabulum the passengers go on their way, weary with their long journey and full of excitement at the prospect of landing. Wistful are the looks which they cast upon the city, with its scenes of busy life, as the steamer nears the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Passing successfully these inner defenses of the city you at last reach your hotel.  Now, you think, "I have passed the troubles incident to the invasion of an enemy's country, and I will take mine ease in mine inn !"</P>
005.sgm:<P>Innocent man that you are, don't you know that the steps of the returned Californian are dogged by persistent mercenaries from the time he sets foot on the soil of Gotham till he leaves it, lightened in purse and Spirits!  Hug no delusive fancies.  Hardly have you emerged from the bath-room and barber-shop before you are met by a gentlemanly-looking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:man, with a winDing address and an elaborate necktie, who has seen your exit and patiently awaits your entrance.  He is a Count D'Orsay in manners and appearance, and is well calculated to come the confidence game.  Endowed with a deep knowledge of human nature, he has noticed your greenness, and he will profit thereby.  Meeting you with a bland smile, he will grasp your hand like an old acquaintance and tenderly inquire after his friends in California; for, in nine cases out of ten, your confidence man has been to the land of gold, and such is his knowledge of localities there and your greenness that his lies are credited.  Getting. much interested in your welfare, and seeing your somewhat shabby attire, he makes you the recipient of gratuitous warning and' advice. He cautions you against numerous clothing store agents, who, taking advantage of the condition of your wardrobe, and appealing to your pride to get it replaced by an array of their cheap but elegant wares, will try to decoy you off to their Fulton Street dens, there to take you in and swindle you. With a face beaming with benevolence and urbanity he warns you to keep out of their clutches, and, self-sacrificing prototype of the good Samaritan that he is, he offers to conduct you to where you will get your money's worth.  He is not at all interested in the clothing emporium; oh no, not he; he is interested in you and does not want to see you swindled as he was when <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
005.sgm: returned from California.  Being much taken by his Christian deportment you accompany him, for it would be ungrateful to repay his kindness with mistrust; So, arm-in-arm-walking exemplification of the fact that new-made friendships are as strong as old-established ones--you pass from the hotel.  As you proceed you meet scattered units of the clothing agent gang, and these, true to the predictions of your Damon, wantonly assail you with their business cards and offers of safe conduct to their respective stores.  Keeping you close under his protecting wing, your friend scowls <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:fiercely at the skirmishers on your flank, whom he severely anathematizes.  The latter, also growing interested in you, return <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
005.sgm: compliments and give you the assurance that you are in the hands of a noted swindler, who will not leave you until he gets your last penny.  Your friend shakes his fist and breathes defiance and devotion till your admiration is unbounded.  Being clad in verdure as well as in seedy clothing you do not observe Damon exchanging sly. winks with his apparent foes between his expletives.  As yet you do not know that they are all of one family.  Boldly rescuing you from the hands of your tormentors, Damon triumphantly bears you onward, discoursing familiarly on surrounding objects.  The building is closed or he would take you through the <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
005.sgm: office.  Why, did he know Horace Greeley? Intimate with him; queer man was old Greeley  Anon, we pass the <HI REND="italics">Tribune's</HI>
005.sgm: antipode, the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
005.sgm:.  He knows "Old Bennett," too.  We would go through there if it was'nt shut up; so we will have to forego the pleasure.  You soon emerge into Fulton Street, that paradise of cheap clothing stores.  Elbowing yourselves through the rival merchants thereof, your escort takes you to <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Speaking in the first person, I will say this is no fancy sketch, and that when I came to look over the purchases I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>There is another personage pursuing the same calling whom you will be apt to come in contact with.  This is a venerable gentleman with a placid countenance, who comes the benevolent dodge also.  He, of course, has a son in California-they all have sons or brothers there-a good son, who sends him a remittance by every steamer.  He says he is in easy circumstances and keeps a clothing store, where be can exercise his benevolent propensities by selling raiment to returned Californians at less than cost.  Charmed with your kind old friend, you accompany him to his den, where you are sold with what you buy.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The thimblerigger, the pocket-book dropper and swindlers of other kinds should receive passing notices, but I pass over their claims, though they were always with us, to treat of an adventure two of us had with some "Peter Funk" watch dealers.</P>
005.sgm:<P>My comrade had been some years in California, where he had gone through the varied experiences befalling mining life, finally graduating at Fraser River, so that he was anything but a greenhorn.  For myself, if I had not seen any of the doings of New York sharpers I had read and heard of them, and both of us considered ourselves invulnerable to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>During a promenade on the Battery--where we bad seen the pocket-book dropping and other games played with mingled feelings of pity and contempt for the victims, and with much respect for our ability to withstand the seductive wiles of New York sharpers--we took a stroll up Broadway. When opposite the City Park our attention was arrested by the loud cries of an auctioneer who was selling watches at a great sacrifice.</P>
005.sgm:<P>"Here," I said to my friend, "is a 'Peter Funk' shop in full blast.  Let us go in and see how the simple-minded country people are swindled."</P>
005.sgm:<P>My remark was overheard by a man standing at my elbow, and a remarkably honest-looking person he was, too.</P>
005.sgm:<P>"You are mistaken, sir," said the latter. "The Peter Funks have all been cleaned out by the police.  These gentlemen do a perfectly legitimate business."</P>
005.sgm:<P>This, of course, was sufficient.  It would not do to impugn the motives of a man like our informant.  His whole manner betokened what is known as God's noblest work.  His gray hairs, his mild eyes, his general appearance stamped him as a man of probity.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The bidding, now that our attention was drawn towards the shop, grew fiercer and louder.  Watches were rapidly knocked off to innocent-looking gentlemen who had a mania for them.  They seemed a good thing which they could not get enough of.  Our new-found friend at last caught the infection and made spirited bids at what the auctioneer called "a splendid, full-jeweled, gold hunting watch," one of an imported lot which had just been sold at a great sacrifice by the custom-house officials to pay duties.  Our man soon ran it up to twenty dollars, at which price he got it.  He then went up to the clerk to pay for it, but could only raise fifteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>"What did you bid on that watch for when you knew you could not pay for it and when we might have Sold it to the next lowest bidder and got the cash.  Get out of the way, hay-seeds, and give me that watch."</P>
005.sgm:<P>The buyer was taken all aback by this rude rebuff.  He humbly returned the time-piece and begged pardon. But he was inconsolable for the loss of his bargain, which was again put up and bid on with renewed interest.  I never saw people so crazy for a watch.  As each bid was put on our new acquaintance acted as if he was having a tooth pulled.  Coming up to my shipmate he said:</P>
005.sgm:<P>"Come, won't you buy it? I'm a watchmaker myself and live in Jersey City.  I am putting up at the Astor House, where I left the rest of my money.  The watch will go for twenty dollars, buy it and come over with me and I will give you thirty for it.  Oh, it's too bad they wont let me have it."</P>
005.sgm:<P>He then turned to the clerk and implored him to wait until he could get his money.  The actuary told him not to bother him with his foolishness, while the auctioneer went on with his intonations.  Thus shabbily treated the case of the would be buyer was becoming pitiable.  The contortions of his face betokened a man in the first stages of colic.  We felt sympathy for him and detestation for the others. My shipmate was at last induced to buy the watch, being assured by the auctioneer that if it was not all he represented it the money would be refunded, and was the possessor of it for twenty dollars.  I need hardly say that, wrapped up as I was in the transaction, I envied him his bargain, on which he would soon make ten dollars.  On looking around for the watchmaker he was gone; his appealing face no longer met our eyes.  The amount of the matter was, he was a "Peter Funk," and my friend had been swindled.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>But he had his remedy, for did not the auctioneer say that if the watch was not all he represented he would refund the money?  We inspected the thing and found its odor as brazen as the face of its late owner; so we went back to the shop, which was almost deserted, the auctioneer and four or five persons being all that remained.  One of these, a staid, portly old gentleman, with gold glasses, cane and shiny hat, who said he was a jeweler, asked to see the watch.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Taking us to one side he said it was worth but a few dollars, and that we would never see the Jersey City man again.  My shipmate, in wrath, went to the auctioneer, who had stopped his noise while trouble was impending, and demanded that he should redeem his promise, as the watch was not what he represented it to be.</P>
005.sgm:<P>"Aha I" said Peter Funk, who was now coming out in his real character, "you won't catch me asleep.  I said, 'if <HI REND="italics">it's not all I represent it.'</HI>
005.sgm:<P>"Gentlemen, take my advice; these rascals have swindled you and you will never get your money back.  The best thing you can do is to exchange your watch for a good common silver one, and make no fuss about it.  I am a judge of watches and will see that you are not cheated this time. So don't make fools of yourselves again by calling in the police, as no one will believe your story."  So here was another "Peter Funk."</P>
005.sgm:<P>Turning from him we renewed our talk with the auctioneer, who would not notice us.  Angry for allowing ourselves to be so duped we, for I was standing by my friend in his trouble, resolved to checkmate the swindlers, even if our stay in the city should be delayed by bringing the matter before a police court; so, giving the watch into my keeping, my shipmate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Repassing in a few moments we saw the machine in full running order again, Stool-pigeons and all, and with the requisite amount of raw material lying around for working up.  They seem to separate and get together by magic.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Such is the experience of two persons who prided themselves on their knowledge of the world.  The truth was that we were completely under the influence of the Peter Funks, as was shown by the sequel.  If those cognizant of their tricks are thus swindled, why wonder at the number of uninformed strangers who are duped by these knaves? A kind of spell seems thrown around you, and forgetting all former advice and experience you unconsciously allow yourselves to be drawn into the snares set for you, to come out shamefully swindled.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Enjoying the hospitality of New York for two nights and a day, as I could not leave sooner, I left on the morning of May 30th, and before noon came in sight of the Delaware River--a stream familiar to me from my earliest recollections, but which I had not seen for thirteen months.  A ride of twenty-three miles and old landmarks around Lumberton became visible, and with the depressed feeling, which we sometimes experience more when nearing home after a long absence in distant lands than when leaving it, I came in sight of the old mill, river-landing, lumber.yard and quarry, and all which made up the little village where I passed my life. Soon traversing the winding valley of the Cuttalossa, which the sinking sun was fast throwing in shadow, my old home <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXIII. Conclusion.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>A "CONCLUSION" naturally belonging to a hook as much as a "Preface," I hitch one on to A <HI REND="italics">California Tramp</HI>
005.sgm:<P>These travels involved a journey of seven thousand miles by steam, thirteen hundred on foot and eight hundred of alternate riding and walking, and a period of something over a year.  As far as the accumulation of what moths corrupt and thieves break in and steal are concerned, they were a failure; but otherwise, in spite of what I passed through, I would not have missed my experience for all I might have gained in the most prosperous venture in the time employed.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Thirty years ago, with the exception of a few settlements in Eastern Kansas and the Mormons living in Utah, in the country between the Missouri and the gold regions of California, independent of the Indians, who were either wild and murderous nomads or under the influence of white traders, who brutalized them further with "civilized" ways, there were no inhabitants but the soldiers, traders and hunters, and the outlaws which had been driven thence from the States for their crimes.  Many of these last were with the Indians, and were the cause of much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Then game was abundant.  The buffalo in countless numbers traveled north and south, as the seasons came and went and pasturage invited them to greener and richer fields, and deer and other animals were in plenty.  Now, except in the National Park, the bison is unseen and other game is rarely met.  Their Indian hunters, then untrammeled by reservations, in war-paint and fully armed, roamed free, and trading-posts were scattered over what are now farm lands and mining camps.  Such is the country I traveled over, and whose description I have tried to make interesting to my readers.</P>
005.sgm:<P>In a foot-note I alluded to the valley extending from San Bernardino towards the coast, then a lonely mountain-walled plain, where patches of chaparral alternated with semi-desert and rich prairie, so sparsely inhabited that in forty-five miles I saw but two ranches, but now traversed by a railroad and dotted with towns, whose people are crazy over speculation in town lots.  I will add two other changes: one is the passing of the land along the forks of the Platte from apparent sterility to productive farm land; the other, the transformation of the south branch of the river, from its appearance as shown on page 59, to a bed of sand and stagnant pools in summer.  Of course, during the melting of the mountain snows the river is as wild as ever, but at the same time of year that we crossed it the change is as stated.  This is caused by the irrigating ditches leading from it to water the ranches on the fiats above. To think of the river we splashed through, sometimes up to our waists, in 1858, capable of being crossed dry-shod in thirty years seems unreal.  There are other changes less striking which I will pass over.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>I would like to Say Something more of my comrades of the plains; those rough, unsympathetic fellows whose foils and hardships I shared So many eventful months.  After our separation I never heard of one of them, although our numbers ranged from thirty to sixty--doubling after our second train was coupled on.  On my arrival home, a half year from the time we parted in Salt Lake, I wrote to one or two Missourians whose localities I knew, but, either from their inability to "read writing" or disinclination to start a correspondence, they never replied.  The addresses of the only two I was interested in, "Scottie" and Finlay, I did not know. The former I have sufficiently alluded to; of the last I will say a word or two more.  He was a Canadian by birth, a fact he wished concealed from his companions, for fear of their prejudice, although his sensitiveness soon gave way to contempt.  He was a youth of intelligence and should have known better than to have started on such a journey, lacking the ability as he did to bring himself down to the circumstances around him in the way of associating with his mates and adapting himself to rough work.  Gentle in appearance he was plucky to the verge of science.  His brother ox-drivers, who were disposed to criticize his mode of handling a whip and managing his cattle, he could not tolerate, holding himself aloof from them; yet at times I have known him to unbend until he was quite familiar.  I remember one time in particular when he put his arm in an affectionate manner around a "Piker's" neck, and getting his head in a vise-like grip, gave the "bull-whacker" such a pounding for an unseemly remark he made that he bawled for mercy.  I mention Finlay now, as I have before, as being the only congenial friend I had in the train, and when through sickness he turned back at Fort Kearney, I felt a loneliness and isolation the rest of the journey which can only be understood through a knowledge of my surroundings.</P>
005.sgm:<P>An overland journey to California now cannot be compared <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Does the present work have that necessary adjunct, a Moral?  True, many readers do not care for such, but are satisfied to skim over their readings, careless whether their morals are good or bad.  In my tender youth, when I read Aesop's Fables, I always "skipped " the Morals as too ponderous for my understanding, being satisfied to revel in the talks and actions of apes and foxes, wolves and lambs, lions and asses and other impossible conversationalists.  But some readers look for results independent of the pleasures of transient perusal: some good to humanity coming from the author's experience.</P>
005.sgm:<P>When "Two Years Before the Mast" was written the author obtained more than the popularity it created, although it is as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>So, with the hope that at least this much good may result from my literary venture, I close.  But I hope for more:  that the foregoing recital of my travels over a country so changed since I made my pilgrimage, a generation ago, may have an interest created by the narration alone, and that the reader will be wiser when he comes to the</P>
005.sgm:<P>END OF A CALIFORNIA TRAMP.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>LATER FOOTPRINTS;</P>
005.sgm:<P>OR,</P>
005.sgm:<P>MISCELLANEOUS SKETCHES</P>
005.sgm:<P>-IN-</P>
005.sgm:<P>PROSE AND VERSE</P>
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005.sgm:<illus entity="a005-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ROBERT KENDERDINE, From a Photograph taken in 1853, before leaving hospital for the front at Fredericksburg.</P>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sketches in Prose.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>Robert Kenderdine.</P>
005.sgm:<P>AS FAR as the writer can learn, this young soldier was the only native of Bucks County who lost his life in the battle of Gettysburg.  This, irrespective of considerations of kin and friendship, makes his short career entitled to record; and there are other reasons for writing this. Thousands of the voters of to-day were born since the war. They know nothing of this terrible time, save as they hear of it through the survivors of the struggle.  They who were opposed to the war, and those seekers for office who are anxious to keep from their number such claimants for popular favor as men who had saved their country from ruin, are telling these young men that the war being over, the issues that brought it on are dead, and recollections of the animosities of the strife should be buried with it. This involves the forgetfulness of the participants in that strife.  The survivors of these are getting fewer and fewer. Their deeds should not be hidden by plausible platitudes.  Three hundred thousand of their comrades went down to death, without hope of reward, that we might have a united country.  Typical of these was Robert Kenderdine.</P>
005.sgm:<P>He was born in 1841.  In his school days, as well as afterward, he was a diligent student and reader.  Before the age of nineteen he was a writer of verses and descriptive prose, and a participant in those debates which of old were common at the cross-roads school houses, and in which, for his age and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:experience, he showed rare argumentative ability.  At nineteen he commenced teaching, which he followed until he was twenty-one years old, with the exception of two terms at institutions, were he went to better fit himself for that work.  When a lad at school he was noted for his peaceful disposition and for his avoidance of those disputes which the average juvenile covets to show his prowess.  In a school where the children of Friends formed a small per cent. he used the plain language to all, his <HI REND="italics">thee</HI>
005.sgm: and thy being addressed impartially to canal boy and to his more refined playmates. As he grew to manhood and the clouds of Civil War were breaking over the land, his friends little dreamed that he would ever be part and parcel of the bloody strife.  He was admired by his acquaintances and reigned in the social circles around him.  He was apparently enjoying life, and it was not thought by the unobservant that his patriotism would go beyond the lip service, with which so many lovers of their country served it.  But as the trouble deepened and it became more and more apparent that the fighting done was but the preliminary skirmish of a prolonged and deadly war for physical mastery, wherein one of the sections must go down; when they who enlisted for a holiday were getting appalled at the work before them; when stay-at-home advocates of the war became timorous lest they might be called on to practice their preachings, and were trying to make themselves believe they could serve their country best at home; when opponents of the war were chuckling at their little gatherings, over the disasters' that followed one another through the Spring and fall of 1862--then they who knew Robert Kenderdine knew that it was only a question of time, and that a brief time, when he would lay aside his peaceful ways and congenial studies and join in body as well as in mind the soldiers who were fighting for their country. He debated the matter long and well. There was the unwillingness of his family that he should enter a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Those were dark days.  We hear of the discouraging outlook for the Union cause just before the victories of Vicksburg and Gettysburg.  But it could not have been more gloomy than during the days following the defeats of McClellan and Pope in '62, nor result in more depression among the loyal. Faith in the Army of the Potomac was near gone, and enlistments were slow.  The heyday of the war was over. Many of the soldiers were returning, but not from expiration of term of service. Some were sick from the malaria of the Chickahominy. Some had lost an arm, others a leg, and once in a while, by express, would come an ominously shaped box with "Honor the Brave" stencilled on the top. It was a grand exhortation, but the inanimate form within was poor capital for a recruiting officer.  So also were the empty sleeves and trouser-legs, and fever-wasted forms of the others.  But these times, while they depressed the many, made the few resolve to consecrate the lives, which they had hitherto withheld from the sacrifice, to the service of the country.</P>
005.sgm:<P>At that time patriotism meant more than advocating the war, willingness to bear a share of its costs, encouraging enlistments, or even enlisting expecting only to help garrison forts around Washington, or to repel State invasion.  Serving the country meant not standing up for it alone; it meant standing up in line of battle as a mark for Confederate riflemen or cannoniers, with the questionable compensating privilege of making targets of these rebellious marksmen.  Many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Among those who enlisted in those troublous times was Robert Kenderdine. His arguments for and against the necessity of personal service were drowned in the appeals made by the imperiled Nation.  Through bad management, jealousy among officers high in command, or weakness of numbers, our armies were reeling back towards Washington, and it was time for those who had hesitated to enlist to do so now.  So one day while he was spending his vacation in a distant State preparatory to teaching again in the fall, and when it was thought he had given up the intention of enlisting, a letter came stating that he had joined Collis' Zouaves. In a few days he came home, when his family, finding opposition no longer availing, did what they could to make his departure pleasant.  One thing to make them better reconciled was that Captain Elliot, whose company he joined, was a man to inspire confidence, while the company itself was composed of exceptionally good material. Besides, three of his home acquaintances soon joined <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>They broke camp at Nicetown on the night of the 31st of August, 1862, and reached the Volunteer Refreshment Saloon in the morning.  From here they marched to the Baltimore Depot. Like the rest, Company F occupied a box car, fitted up with rough board seats.  Leave-taking from accompanying friends was over, and with the depression which fills the hearts of departing soldiers, no matter about the outward appearance of unconcern, the Zouaves were soon on their way to the Seat of war.  At Newark, Delaware, an accident occurred, resulting in the death of Mordecai Ryan, one of the group of Bucks County boys who tented together, the others being Thaddeus and Joseph A. Paxson, <ANCHOR ID="n24-1">*</ANCHOR>
005.sgm: *Robert Kenderdine and Pierson Kitchen.  In reckless or forced merriment the soldiers were loudly singing their camp songs.  Mordecai, a tall, good-natured youth, was sitting in the doorway, his long legs swinging in time to the noisy song he was shouting. Suddenly he was thrown from the car, his feet having been struck by a coal-bin they were passing. There being no bell-rope, a young Zouave was lifted to the top of the jolting car, and by running along the tops of the cars he reached the engine, and the train was stopped some three or four miles from the scene of the accident. Reversing the engine, they found the poor fellow on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-1">*Dr. Paxson, of Philadelphia, who died in the Spring of 1888.</NOTE>
005.sgm:<P>Until after the invasion and retreat of Lee in September the Zouaves lay around Washington. When Stuart made his raid through Maryland to Chambersburg, and near to Gettysburg, in October, they were marched back and forth along the shore of the Potomac, in a vain attempt to intercept the retreat of that successful cavalry leader. To reach one ford they marched thirty miles, and retraced their route after guarding it thirty minutes.  This service was hard on these raw troops.  One night Robert's company of eighty-nine men got into camp with but sixteen, but he wrote proudly back that he was one of them, nor did he discard his knapsack, as did many.  With chafed limbs and blistered feet, the rest had sunk exhausted by the way. Still the remainder got in before morning.  When the march was ordered again the men thought they could not move, but sixty-four got in line and started on their hopeless search for Stuart.  Hither and yon they dragged their wearied limbs, through dust and mud, in sun and rain; hard usage for a boy whose life had been a succession of study and teaching, and which was unacquainted with hardship.  Still he wrote home cheerfully, and speaking for himself and two home comrades, the third having been discharged, said they were in good spirits.  But the last march was more than he could bear. After an exhausting day marching in the rain he laid down at night in his drenched clothes.  In a few days word came from Poolsville he was down sick.  His father and brother-in-law, Eastburn Reeder, at once started for Maryland, that they might bring him home, but when they arrived at Poolsville the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The hospital tents soon came up and were pitched, when hay was spread on the ground and the sick carried thither, and made as comfortable as possible.  They were afterward removed to the public buildings.  These had been used by the Confederates for the sick and wounded.  They were in a filthy state, and the sick removed there fared worse than when in the open air.  The surgeons were without proper medicine and food for the sick, who were dying daily for want of them. Strong efforts were made to get permission to remove Robert to Philadelphia, but with the unreasoning perverseness which officials clothed in a minimum of red tape often show, they were unnoticed.  E    then made a journey to the Friends' settlement at Goose Creek, six miles from Leesburg, to find a home for Robert, as he was not likely to live where he was. He was successful, and the invalid, with permission of the medical director of the hospital, was removed to the hospitable home of Rachel Hoag.  Under changed circumstances, Robert was soon past danger.  While here rebel raids were imminent, and thinking it prudent to leave for fear of capture, E. at once started north.  He was refused a pass by our authorities and forbidden to leave, but he made his way into Maryland, unmolested by either of the combatants, and got home safely. The day after the rebels made their appearance at the Friends' settlement, and made inquiries for the new-comers at Hoag's; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>There were excuses for his remaining behind.  Through a medical friend in the hospital he could have been detailed as clerk where he was.  For this there were plenty of precedents. Many scholarly patriots joined the Union forces, only to find after they had tasted the danger of army life a while that they might he valuable adjuncts to some quartermaster, commissarist or medical director.  Sometimes they were detailed in the War Department.  They got what they thought themselves fitted for when they could command the required influence ; in such cases they kept out of harm's way till the close of the war.  Robert had their chances, but he took no advantage of them.  He was too proud to retrace one step.  He had joined the army to fight, or he would have remained in the better position of hospital clerk.  And if he did not appreciate the hardships of a soldier's life when he enlisted, he knew them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Boarding the train the ride to Washington was made partly in a box car.  Some of the soldiers were drunk, and Robert spent much of his time in endeavors to keep them from falling out of the car.  He stopped awhile in the Capital to visit some friends.  One of these was as the comforters of Job.  He was an intense patriot at the beginning of the war and joined the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>He passed down the Potomac to Acquia Creek, and thence by rail to Falmouth, opposite Fredericksburg, where be found his regiment; but not his tent-mates.  By death and discharge they were gone.  While he was away the battle of Fredericksburg had been fought.  It was a dull winter day, snow was on the ground, and the company streets were swamps of mud when he arrived.  The sight was not one to raise his spirits, but he entered into his duties with a firm resolve to serve his imperiled country to the bitter end.</P>
005.sgm:<P>He missed the assault on the height of St. Marye and the glory thereto attached, but there was plenty of work yet to do; and glory, for that matter.  On the 3d of May came the battle of Chancellorsville.  It was a sad day for the 114th; from the Screening thickets came bullet and shell, till one hundred and seventy-three of their number went down--all their officers but eight.  Captain Elliot, the loved commander of company F, here died a patriot's death.  Robert was grazed by a bullet, but be came out of the fight safe.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Another defeat to add to the rest of its disasters for the Army of the Potomac.  More chuckling among the opponents of the war; more satisfaction among deposed generals and their friends; more worriment for Lincoln; more weeping and wailing for the dead, and the end of it all hidden by gloomy clouds.  But there were brave hearts left, and the Army of the Potomac would yet fulfil its mission.  The thinned battalions, after a short rest, were again in motion.  This time to the North, for Lee was marching on Pennsylvania.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>After the disaster at Chancellorsville the Third Corps had returned to Roscobel, near Falmouth, where they lay when the order to march came.  With it went the 114th, its ranks depleted, but the soldiers not discouraged.  On the 11th of June this regiment reached Hartwood Church; on the 12th, Bealton; on the 14th, Manassas Junction; on the 17th, Centreville; on the 19th, Gum Springs.  On the 25th the regiment crossed the Potomac at Edward's Ferry, which was familiar ground.  On the 26th they reached Point of Rocks.  On the 28th, Woodsboro, where General Sickles joined them.  On the 29th, Taneytown, and the 30th, a point near Emmettsburg.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The weather was warm, and from the passage of such an army the road was deep with dust, which choked the men and horses and made marching difficult, but the army bore up well.  Robert kept up with the best of them.  He could not be surpassed on a march.  He had become a hardy soldier.  The battle he had been in had tested his courage, and he had borne it well.  He was inspired with confidence. His health and spirits were good.  He was on his way to his native State, on whose soil he was ready to offer up his life a sacrifice, and he felt ready to do and dare to the utmost.</P>
005.sgm:<P>There was not much variation in the series of alternate marches and halts, for in the time between Falmouth and Gettysburg the Third Corps marched, on an average, but one day in two.  The watching for Lee, whose destination was not manifest, and the effort to cover Washington from his attack, made Hooker's progress slow and cautious.  The monotony of the day's march was relieved by the sight of camps they passed by, as the corps moved alternately, or by the galloping by of cavalry or artillery seeking the whereabouts of the enemy.  Then there was the fording of streams, the camping when the day's tramp was over, the camp duties and the weary night on picket. It took from the 5th till the 30th of June to reach Gettysburg.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>Captain Given, of Manayunk, gave me the following concerning the action of the regiment after the 1st of July.  From his position he saw but little of Robert in the fight, being on the non-commissioned staff.  He was an intimate friend, and had served in the same company until promoted:</P>
005.sgm:<P>"On the afternoon of July 1st, 1863, we reached Emmettsburg, Maryland, from Bridgeport; halted for a rest, when it began to rain.  This continued until near dark.  Soon word came to fall in, which we obeyed in quick order, and proceeded through the town.  A mile outside we began to hear the firing of a cannon.  This came from the fight between Oak Ridge and Cemetery Hill, as our men were falling back to the protection of Steinwehr's guns.  We were then hurried faster.  Our overcoats, which many of us carried, became heavy, and we began throwing them away.  A farmer was driving rapidly from the battlefield with his family in an open farm wagon.  I asked him if he wanted an overcoat?  He said 'No! but I will keep it for you.'  It being a good one I threw it to him.  Robert disposed of his the same way, and we hurried on toward the sound of battle.  We were in good spirits, laughing and joking, although wet to the skin.  I remember Robert was as cheerful as any.  It was about sundown when we reached the point on the Emmettsburg road where we fought next day--little knowing that here so many of our boys would fall.  This was at the Sherfey House, then of no more note than any one of the many farm-houses around, and at the next house beyond turned to the right.  In this, then a low, one-storied log structure, lived a man who was sitting in the doorway nursing a baby as we marched hurriedly by.  I thought how soon he would be getting out of that.  The next day that log-house was a fort, and I don't think that man and baby was part of the garrison. We marched across the fields and were posted on the Ridge north of Round Top. The firing had now ceased. The remnants of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>"How long we fought here I cannot tell,  In battle a person has no real conception of time.  We crossed the road, and I remember myself standing in the path leading to the house directing some of the men what to do.  Of course, all was excitement.  I remember that in many cases the fighting was hand to hand.  It was a desperate battle.  Men never fought with so much determination as did our little band. Robert fell not far from here, just to the left of the Sherfey House.  The boys were falling all around me.  I was almost beside myself as I beheld my comrades' vain efforts, to rally. We had to fall back, although very reluctantly.  Night came on, and with it came the 5th Corps, when we, a little band of sixty-five men, all that was left out of four hundred and seventy-three who went into the fight, gathered near the foot of Round Top where we lay until morning.  We were afterward posted near the Devil's Den, when we were served with rations, the first in forty-eight hours, except a barrel of flour we bought of a farmer on the morning of the 2d.  We were soon hurried to the support of the 2d Corps, on the Ridge, who were getting ready for the coming assault of Lee. We were posted in the rear of the Philadelphia Brigade.  Pickett's charge was in our front.  We helped repel it, but lost no men there.  On the night following, our pickets advanced to the Emmettsburg road whence we were driven the day before, leaving the dead and wounded behind.  I took a detail of men and reported to a captain in the 26th Pennsylvania, who had charge of the burial squad.  I will here mention a curious circumstance.  While he and I were talking near the road, he stopped and picked up something which proved to be two musket balls--one a Union, the other a rebel.  They had met in mid-air and welded together.  We could distinguish them by the rings, the former having three, the latter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>"There are many things I could relate that come to me only when my mind dwells upon that battle, or when persons seek from me information concerning it.</P>
005.sgm:<P>"I remember a circumstance which impressed itself on my mind very forcibly, particularly as I had never seen women assisting amid the horrors of a battle-field before; neither have I since, for that matter.  The remnant of our regiment, in coming off the field at the Sherfey House, became detached from the brigade (Graham's).  About 3 in the morning I was sent to look for it.  I saw a light in a large barn, went to it, inquired and found it a hospital.  And such a sight.  In the centre was the amputation table.  Under and around lay arms, hands, legs and feet, till it looked liked a human slaughter house.  Blood covered the table, the floor was slippery with it; the dim flicker of candles cast a sickly glare on the surroundings, making the sight the ghastliest I ever saw.  To this was added the agonizing moans and cries of the wounded and dying; while over this was the roar of cannon and shriek of shell, occasioned by an advance of our lines.  I turned away and entered the yard.  On a stretcher lay an officer in his last agonies; two companions knelt by his side; while the enclosure was full of dead and dying.  I turned from these and saw two ladies, evidently a mother and daughter, administering to the wounded.  All night long these faithful women bathed and bandaged their wounds, fed and cheered the poor fellows, or soothed their dying moments. I do not believe they deserted their posts, though shot and shell were beginning to fall and burst around.  I did not have long to stay.  I hastened away from the awful sight; took the little remnant of the Zouaves to the brigade, and was soon again in the heat of battle.</P>
005.sgm:<P>"Early on the morning of the 4th I went out to our picket <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>"Sergeant DeHaven, who was killed by my side with a ball through his heart, and who was a neighbor of mine,,lay dead in the pathway.  I sat down and cut his name on a shingle, and put it at his grave, where he was buried with five Confederates, and sent word to his sorrowing wife.  His body was removed, and with six others of our company now lies in our village cemetery.  The rude headboard seems to have been wrongly placed, for when the removal took place it was at the head of a buried rebel.  The dead sergeant was, however, found at his side.  From the conflict of battle they were sleeping the peaceful sleep of death together.</P>
005.sgm:<P>"Robert was a man who was much liked and respected; very kind and always willing to do a good act; to sacrifice himself for the good of others.  I have always looked upon him as an ideal American soldier, brave, intelligent and a gentleman in word and deed; ready to fight for his country without hope of reward, save the consciousness of having done his duty."</P>
005.sgm:<P>Sergeant H. H. Snyder, now of New York, was with Robert when he fell; both being in the color guard.  The line--if such a confused mass could be called a line, when, without a head, some in the house, some in the yard, some back of the barn-the regiment was fighting, had fallen back to the road.  The guard was in advance of the colors, defending them to their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Until the morning of the 4th the enemy held this ground, so that there was no chance for the Federals to aid their wounded until then.  The latter were taken to the field hospital on Rock Creek, east of Round Top; Robert among the rest.  His wound was necessarily mortal.  We were fortunate in meeting a comrade, James H. Priest, who was with him to the last, and did all he could to make him comfortable.  His father, after making two attempts, at last reached Gettysburg early on the morning of the 10th.  After much difficulty, he found him in a tent with a number of wounded.  Robert recognized him for the moment, but soon wandered off in the delirium which had clouded his mind since his arrival from the battle-field.  It had been thought by his friends that had proper care been taken of him he might have lived, but the best of care could not have saved him.  He died on the 10th of July.</P>
005.sgm:<P>His mission was accomplished.  He had offered his life to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The curtain had dropped; the tragedy was over.  He who had lain so long, suffering and in delirium, in sight of that rocky height which he had defended, now slept his last sleep in his death-tent under the shadow of Round Top.  Those eyes were no more to reflect the fire of battle; those lips to give forth cheering words to faltering comrades; those limbs to move in the execution of the dread duties of a soldier. That mind, that form, those features had found rest.  No more the morning bugle ca!l would arouse him to his daily duties, nor nightly tattoo close them.  With so much to live and hope for, alas! that it should be so</P>
005.sgm:<P>He died a common soldier; in his case a symbol of disinterested patriotism.  From his shoulder gleamed no star, nor eagle, nor leaf; neither double nor single bar.  He bore not even the insignia of a Sergeant.  He had campaigned and fought for a year.  He was loyal, brave and intelligent; but when they bore him from his last fight, the sleeve of his torn and battle-stained Zouave jacket showed only the chevrons of a corporal.  But better this humble token of rank than the triple stars of those generals who, with jealousy and envy, sulked in their tents, mute to the appeals of their sore pressed comrades.</P>
005.sgm:<P>A common soldier!  All praise to the man who carried the musket.  He reaped scant comfort while living; he had no separate monument when dead.  From the grave of the colonel or general sprang a shaft blazoned with his deeds. The private soldier had, as far as public recognition went, a hundredth part or so of one of those granite columns which in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:the North arose from city square or village green.  'Tis true he had, when through some fortuitous circumstances his battle-gashed body reached home, a stone at his head in the graveyard of his native village which his comrades could annually decorate.  But more than that, and better than mural marks were the memories of the gallant deeds done in his devotion to country, which perennially bloomed in the souls of those who saw him go forth to the sacrifice.  In the words of that beautiful poem, "The Man with a Musket," <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I knew him! By all that is noble I knew<LB>This commonplace hero I name!<LB>I've camped with him, marched with him, fought with him too<LB>In the swirl of the fierce battle flame!<LB>I knew him I tell you! And, also, I knew<LB>When be fell on the battle-swept ridge,<LB>That the poor battered body that lay there in blue<LB>Was only a plank in the bridge<LB>Over which some one should pass to a fame<LB>That shall shine while the high stars shall shine.<LB>Your hero is known by an echoing name,<LB>But the man of the musket is mine!"</HI>
005.sgm:<P>The body of the young soldier was brought home and buried in the beautiful yard fronting the Friends' meeting-house where he attended in his peaceful days.  He died a soldier's death.  He was buried in the ways of the peaceful sect which looks upon war with abhorrence.  No battle-flag draped his coffin, nor soft bugle notes nor muffled drum played a funeral march to his grave.  No platoon, with reversed muskets, went before him; no parting volley closed the scene.  An aged ministering Friend spoke a few consoling words over his remains, and Robert Kenderdine was laid to rest amid the sorrow of all who knew him, and now,</P>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"After life's fitful fever, he sleeps well !"</HI>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>John Burns of Gettysburg.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>IT has been shown that William Tell was a myth, and the shooting of an apple from a son's head to save a father's life a thread-bare reiteration, handed down through generations of story-tellers. It has been demonstrated that the account of the rescue of John Smith by the daughter of Powhatan, which went undisputed for two centuries, existed only in the mind of the narrator. It has been proven that Whittier's poem of Barbara Frietchie was based on an act of patriotic defiance which history does not corroborate. It is, therefore, no wonder that John Burns, of Gettysburg, is regarded by those who look into the matter superficially, as a fanciful creation, particularly when we reflect that it required a poem to make his actions famous, and that there was a probability of its being based on as unsubstantial a foundation as was the story of the aged heroine of Frederick. That he was not the "baseless fabric of a vision," but of as real flesh and blood as a feeble man of seventy could be, and that Bret Harte rather understated than overdrew the facts which connected him with the Gettysburg battle, can easily be shown.  Being shown, let us remember, while honoring the memory of the titled dead or living, who had such incentives to brave death on the hills and in the meadows around that historic town, that old John Burns, past the fighting age, and while his neighbors were seeking subterranean seclusion from the gathering storm, left his peaceful work, went amid our fighting lines, whose movements were visible from his little home not a half mile distant, and insisted on sharing the danger with veteran soldiers, and who fought until wounded past fighting.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The greater stress should be laid on the actions of John Burns on that eventful day, because his was an isolated case.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The home of</P>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The only man who wouldn't back down<LB>When the rebels rode through his native town,<LB>But held his own in the fight next day<LB>When all his townsfolk ran away,"</HI>
005.sgm:<P>was a story and a-half house with a basement, over which hung a platform reached by a flight of steps running up the front of the house.  It is on the extreme western edge of the town, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>On the morning of July 1st, 1863, the greatest excitement was developing in Gettysburg, on Seminary Ridge and the valley of Willoughby Run beyond.  The enemy s point of concentration was discovered, and it was known that his advance was in such force that the impending conflict between the armies of Lee and Meade must necessarily take place near the town.  The preliminary skirmish had begun,. and, knowing its import, the commanding general was sending reinforcements as fast as the exhausted condition of the troops would permit.  Here John Burns first comes on the scene.  At this time he was sixty-nine years old.  In his younger days he had been given to drink, and some of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The scenes and sounds around were intensely impressive. There was the distant booming of cannon and rattle of musketry, the smoke curling above the Ridge, the frightened countrymen fleeing to the dubious protection of the town, the cattle, wild with terror, running and bellowing across the fields until shot down by interrupting missiles, and the waves on waves of infantry and artillery rolling toward the scene of battle and meeting and almost burying the influx billows of wounded and demoralized men.  Toward where the noises of battle smote the air the loudest, with set teeth and furrowed brow, marched old John Burns, neither looking to the left nor right, unless to cast a professional eye on the worn foot-gear of the tired soldiers, and, jostled by the armed throngs who crowded by him, he slowly worked his way to the summit of the Ridge.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The Seventh Wisconsin Regiment was a part of the "Iron Brigade," an organization which has a good record in the campaign of the Army of the Potomac.  In that brigade <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The commander of the Seventh Wisconsin in the first day's fight at Gettysburg was John B. Callis, then Lieutenant Colonel, but afterwards made a Brigadier-General.  He had previously commanded his regiment in the battle of Antietam, Second Bull Run and Brandy Station, and many minor engagements.  He was Southern born, and when, after the commencement of hostilities, he offered to raise a company of volunteers, his proposition was looked upon rather coldly by his countrymen.  His bravery during some of the heaviest fighting in the East showed how unjust were the suspicions. In Confederate General Hill's account of the battle of South Mountain, in the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
005.sgm:<P>"On the 1st of July the 'Iron Brigade' marched to the crest of Seminary Ridge, south of the Seminary, where it drew the unexpected fire of Archer's Confederate Brigade, this being the first infantry firing of the battle, the previous fighting having been by dismounted cavalry.  Our brigade, not having their muskets loaded, charged and captured the opposing force with the bayonet, which took place at Willoughby's Run.  After sending the prisoners to the rear we re-formed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>"'Colonel, is this your regiment?'</P>
005.sgm:<P>"'Yes,'I said.</P>
005.sgm:<P>"Then he brought his rifle to an order and said:</P>
005.sgm:<P>"'Can I fight in your regiment?'</P>
005.sgm:<P>"I answered, 'Old man, you had better go to the rear or you'll get hurt.'</P>
005.sgm:<P>"And he replied, just as a shell burst near him:</P>
005.sgm:<P>"'Tut! tut! tut! I've heard this sort of thing before.'</P>
005.sgm:<P>"These words were spoken in a tremulous voice.  I again ordered him to the rear, when he replied, 'No, sir.  If you won't let me fight in your regiment I will fight alone.'  I asked him where his cartridge box was.  He patted his trousers' pocket, and said, 'Here's my bullets,' and, taking an old-fashioned powder-horn from his pocket, 'Here's my powder, and I know how to use them.  There are three hundred cowards back in that town who ought to come out of their cellars and fight, and I will show you that there is one man in Gettysburg who is not afraid.'  Just then some of the boys began to joke him about his hat and to insist that he should have a chance to fight. Sergeant George Eustis added, 'Fix him up, boys.  He'll soon get tired of it and go home.' I at last yielded, and with the sergeant's help fixed him up with a rise we had just captured from Archer's sharpshooters, and leaned his old squirrel rifle up against a tree.  He was given a cartridge box and belt, but declined to use them, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>Sergeant George Eustis, above referred to, is living in Gilroy, California.  I wrote to him for further corroborating information in regard to John Burns.  He says: "if any of those who think that the old man took no part in the battle of Gettysburg had seen him on the 1st of July, 1863, they would change their opinion.  I can't tell just what time he came up to us, having left my watch at home on the bureau that morning, bud it was after we had captured Archer's Brigade, and while we were lying down in the timber to protect ourselves from the shot and shell flying around, about noon, say, that I saw a little old man coming up in the rear of our company, F. I remember him well.  He had on a swallow-tail coat, with smooth brass buttons.  We boys commenced to poke fun at him, thinking him a fool to come up where there was so much danger.  I wanted to put a cartridge box on him to make him look like a soldier, telling him he couldn't fight without that.  His reply was, slapping his pockets, 'I can get my hands in here quicker than in the box; I am not used to them new-fangled things.'  In answer to a question as to what made him come up there, he said the rebels had either milked his cows or driven them away, and he was going to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>"On our retreat through Gettysburg I saw but one citizen. This was an old man who brought a washtub out to his pump on the sidewalk, and then pumped water for the boys as they passed along.  God bless his old soul; I wish I knew who he was that, if alive, I might thank him for his bravery and kindness."</P>
005.sgm:<P>Dr. Horner, of the town, dressed the old man's wounds. He informed me he was struck in the arm, ankle and breast, the latter a trifling flesh wound.  The assertions of some of his townspeople that he "merely got scratched among the briars," therefore, will hardly stand.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Another incident in the life of the old hero I came across recently.  On the evening of November 9th, 1863, the day on which Lincoln delivered his memorable words at the dedication of the Gettysburg monument, the President, accompanied by his brother-in-law, General Todd, and a few other noted men, attended a lecture.  As the party entered the church in which it was given, and were passing to the seats assigned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:them, it was noticed that a feeble, gray-haired man was following them, as if disposed to intrude.  As Lincoln and Todd entered their pew the old man followed.  Todd, noticing this, said, "Old <HI REND="italics">man</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Why Bret Harte, who is needlessly exaggerative, did not work up the fact of the wounding of Burns, is hard to tell. The poet seemed to have simply seized hold of the main fact and elaborated it regardless of chronology. He says when the fight was over,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"He shouldered his rise, unbent his brows,<LB>And then went home to his bees and cows."</HI>
005.sgm:<P>As he fought on the first day it was not until two days after that the enemy "Backward pressed, broke at the final charge and ran."  In fact, things looked pretty blue for the Union cause for some time after Burns left the field on a stretcher after turning the command over to General Meade.  "The clerks the Home Guards mustered in" were mythical, as he himself intimates when he says Burns was "the only man who would'nt back down."</P>
005.sgm:<P>The field on which John Burns fought is on the left as you near the "Springs Hotel," about a mile and a-half west of the town, and close by the grove where General Reynolds fell. After he was wounded he was carried to his home, which was the first house but one in Gettysburg as you enter by the Chambersburg Pike.  He was laid on a lounge in the front <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:room until other arrangements could be made.  While lying here a rebel bullet passed over him and went through the partition four feet from the floor.  This hole is closed up by pasting a piece of rag over it, but shows clearly how near Burns got his fourth, and, in all likelihood, his <HI REND="italics">coup de grace</HI>
005.sgm:<P>On the top of Cemetery Hill, in the graveyard adjoining the National Cemetery, are two marble slabs.  On the one is:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>JOHN L. BURNS,<LB>The Hem of Gettysburg,<LB>Died February 4th, 1872,<LB>Aged 75 years.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P>On the Other:</P>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>BARBARA,<LB>Wife of John L. Burns,<LB>Born June 15th, 1787,<LB>Died July 1st, 1868.<LB>"Thy word is as a lamp unto my feet<LB>And a light unto my path."</HI>
005.sgm:<P>It will be noticed that Barbara died on the anniversary of the fight her husband made himself famous in.</P>
005.sgm:<P>They had no children, but left an adopted daughter, Jennie, who lives with a family by the name of Martin, on the "Diamond," as the central square of Gettysburg is called. She was but two years old at the time of the battle.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I have since re-visited Gettysburg and found additional evidence that Burns was the patriot his admirers claimed him to have been.  I also saw the same disposition among some of his neighbors to belittle him to strangers.  They can scarcely speak a good word for him, and it is the utterance of these which make visitors believe he was what they term him--a drunken braggart.  As I have before said, he was at one time addicted to drink, but he reformed, and the later years of his life was a sober man.  He had made effort to enlist at the beginning of the war, but the recruiting-officer would not take him, as he was then sixty-seven years old.  I was told that he served in the Mexican war, but it being afterwards contradicted, as John led a double life in Gettysburg, it is hard to say whether it is true or not.  In gathering information about Bums, it was a common thing for the second informant to nullify what the first said.  It is very evident he had been a soldier at some previous time.  He received a pension from the Government for his day's work at Gettysburg up to the time of his death.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>Shorn of all exaggeration the Story of old John Burns, gray with age, standing on Seminary Ridge among the veterans of the Army of the Potomac, loading and firing with the best of them, is a thrilling episode of the late war.  By correspondence with those with whom he fought, and who would naturally recollect the particulars of an incident so unique, and by personal inquiry of those who knew him, I have obtained the details of the deed which made him famous.</P>
005.sgm:<P>If what I have written will do anything towards perpetuating the memory of the citizen-hero of Gettysburg, and render him less a mythical personage and more the gallant patriot he was, it is all I ask.</P>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Village Store.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>CHANGE is written on all things mundane.  Speaking in a particular way of man, we See a series of ever-varying changes, from red-faced infancy to wrinkled old age.  Noting the human race in general, we see with what ceaseless mutations it has advanced, from the grinning pre-historic ape of Darwin to the self-complacent, self-assumedly perfect man of to-day.  The seasons follow one another in one endless, shifting succession.  Empires grow, flourish and decay.  Kingdoms arise from the ashes of past governmental conflagrations, flap their confident wings into futurity, knock their heads against the rock of popular will, and die.  Republics--those synonyms of ingratitude--run their too brief existence, pass away, and emerge in some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:other form.  The arts and sciences are continually varying, their course being onward and upward.  In manner of locomotion we have gone from the pack-horse to the lightning train; in modes of transmitting news, from the plodding mail coach to the electric telegraph.  In our habitations we have advanced from the colonial log hut to magnificent residences, with their wen-like bay windows, their mansard roofs, their towers and their mortgages.  The plain public buildings of the olden time are succeeded by massive piles, which cost piles as massive, and which an unconsulted posterity must pay for. As before intimated, change and advancement are accompaniments of all things sublunary, with one exception, and that is the Village Store.  I have known this institution for over forty years, and in that period there has been little alteration in its outward and inward appearance, the mode of conducting it, and the <HI REND="italics">personnel</HI>
005.sgm:<P>There was the hitching post with its well gnawed top; the porch filled up with dry goods, soap and candle boxes, and the rakes, shovels and hoes piled up around the outside of the door as of old.  On entering the door there was the same trim array of nail kegs to greet the eye.  In them were the different gradations, from the festive "three-penny-fine" to the lordly "spike."  Not so prominent to me now, but standing out then in bold relief, my first recollections of the grocery store are in connection with the candy jars.  Short-necked, apoplectic fellows that they are, with their brass-capped heads; there they stand, just as they stood in my boyhood's days, the centre of attraction for juvenile eyes.  Their contents don't seem to have been disturbed.  The one on the left is shotted with "sour-balls," the next with mint stick, the next with lemon candy, and then came a jar with "lickerish," followed by' another containing "secrets."  These latter had printed mottoes around them, as now, and were much affected by the youthful swains at school.  These passed them over to the big <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>On my right, as I enter, is the counter devoted to groceries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:and sundry other articles.  At its end, next the street, is <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
005.sgm: powder and Shot department.  The sight of the powder-can always inspired me with awe, and its possible explosion, coupled with carelessness on the part of the boyish clerk, gave me visions of flying tea canisters, paint jars, mouse traps, clothes lines and the rest of the odds and ends usually found in connection with the grocery department of a "well kept country store."  "A quarter o' powder, pound of shot," was the sentiment generally given in by those seeking ordnance stores, and was responded to by the storekeeper with the gravity befitting a dispenser of those death-dealing articles. The scales for weighing these were also used to balance tea, which was proper, as one variety of the nerve-destroying herb was known as "Gunpowder."  Close by stand the balances which test the weight of groceries, mackerel and nails.  Over these the customer of an inquiring mind leaned while his purchases were tried in the balance.  I could always estimate a man's intrinsic moral worth by his actions at such times.  Were be unduly thrifty he would appropriate a piece of cheese before the weight of it was announced; if an "all, all honorable man," he would wait till after and then gorge himself with saccharine sweetness or that other production, the use of which would make his breath smell like that of the lord-mayor of Limburg.  Mackerel, I always noticed, were never interfered with by either class, but the former would generally inquire if due allowance was made for the brown paper in which the salty fish were wrapped.  The considerate questioning of the merchant sounds in my ears as it did in days gone by.  "Do you like a sharp cheese or a mild?" "Will you have the mild Rio or the strong?"  "How did that last tea suit?" were the stock questions.  When I was a boy the coffee was always sold raw.  Before being roasted it had to be picked of all foreign matter.  I have in my mind an old lady, of an economical turn, who used to save up all this waste and return <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>There is the medicine closet as it stood of yore, but not filled as then.  Where stand the stupefying "Mrs. Winslow," "Pain Killer," "Consumption Cures," and other compounds, was an array of good old Thompsonian medicines; there was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>And there is the show case, the contents a mercantile museum, and its glazed lid still inviting guileless youth to rest its elbows on it and break through.  It didn't used to be thought worth while to putty the panes of glass, so frequently were they broken, and I observe they are still only tacked in. As an inducement to the over-confiding and morally delinquent to invest in a grab, I see a ten-cent note pasted on the under side of one of the panes.  The standard mercantile joke in specie times was to nail a counterfeit quarter to the counter and thus tempt erring human nature with illusory hopes. Varied the contents of the show case.  Here the hired girl got the bows, the ribbons and "balm of a thousand flowers" wherewith to ensnare the village youths; and here the latter got the "galone" to besprinkle his handkerchief, and the "bear's oil" to anoint his locks, both of which were to make him irresistible in the eyes of the aforesaid.  There were eyes for the blind in the shape of German silver spectacles, razors for the unshaven, soap for the unclean and fish-hooks for the fisher of fish.  But what took my attention, when a lad, was the knife department of the show case.  First and foremost among the collection was that <HI REND="italics">vade mecum-the</HI>
005.sgm: knife with a dozen blades and other appliances, among which were a corkscrew, toothpick, file and gimlet.  This, while it bewildered me, was beyond my aspirations.  There were knives of six <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>I skip to the dry goods department, where the odorous corduroy, the Kentucky jeans, which faded as a flower, the flashy calicoes, whose colors were fast only in the sense of speedily leaving the goods, and the muslins of more or less bleachedness are stored.  I pass under the array of dangling boots, which hang like a cloud of leathery manna, ready to descend on an unshod world whenever it should be deemed worthy.  I will say nothing of the part devoted to school books, the shelves of which in my younger days were filled with those time-honored works--Comly's spelling book and grammar, Pike's arithmetic, Olney's geography, Parley's histories, etc.--but hasten on to that part of the store where evidences of our nationality sit enthroned in the post-office department.  True, there is some change here, for in old times envelopes were not thought of, and the postage was rarely prepaid; but the general appearance is just as it was then.  People who have no reason to expect letters make daily inquiries for them, just as they used to, and the wearied postmaster answers them as courteously as he can.  The village miss, who is lucky enough to get a letter, makes the most of it, and after trying to find out who it is from by looking at the post-mark, carefully opens it and reads it as she saunters homeward on the public highway--the envy of the less fortunate maids.  The business man, to whom letters are no novelty, runs his forefinger into the envelope and rips it open without ceremony.  The man who don't take a country paper begs one of his neighbor's out of the pack, and does his best to get through with it before it is called for.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I pass from the stock of the store to the stock company, which there plays its daily and nightly parts--from the inanimate to the animate fixtures.  First comes the head-centre of the institution, the storekeeper himself.  He is gray of hair and whisker, but he looks no older to-day than when, a third of a century ago, with my eyes on a level with the counter, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>356</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>Then there were the boys who regularly graduated in that store.  From mere sweepers of the floor and dusters of counters, from fishers of mackerel and drawers  of molasses and bungling wrappers-up of packages, they have become adepts in their business, and left the humble scenes of their tutelage for positions in the city, or, having capital at command, started stores of their own.  They were generally composed of lads who were too lazy to work on a farm, and were the envy of their agricultural brethren. Among us school boys a desire to tend store was rampant within our souls.  The duties of that vocation, in comparison with our farm labors, loomed up So pleasantly before us that it is no wonder we longed for a change of pasture on which our young lives might feed.  Often when engaged in the detested occupation of stone picking, with the "spine of my back" (query: is there any other Spine?) bent double, and with legs aweary with gathering our annual mural harvest, and my system burning with spring fever, I have looked across the fields toward the neighboring village and envied the new boy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>357</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>I recollect well when Bob Beeser, the son of a farmer neighbor and about my own age, was promoted to a vacancy in our store.  The position had been for some time vacant, and I had longed for it like L for the apple pie in the old nursery book. I teased my father for the coveted position, but in vain.  He had higher aspirations for me, and Bob got the place.  At school I was not behind him: in truth, I was his superior, both mentally and physically.  Whether it was a "rassle" on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:good weight and not too much draft), how generously he gave the girl a lump after he bad Struck the balance; to see him, when it came to cheese, how neatly he gave her a piece to taste on the point of his cheese knife--a rusty old implement it was, but to my eyes it was as a blade of Damascus!--and with what vigor and grace he clave the yellow segment; to behold him pause--on the road from the grocery counter to the dry goods department--at the candy <HI REND="italics">shelf to give her a</HI>
005.sgm: "secret;" to see her unwrap the confection and put it in her mouth, and, as she rolled it from cheek to cheek as a sweet morsel, hear her read the couplet on the "secret" paper:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"If you love me as I love you,<LB>No knife can cut our love in two"</HI>
005.sgm:<P>to hear their mutual tittering thereat; to see how dexterously Bob threw down calicoes and muslins, ribbons and tape on the dry goods counter; to see their whispered confidences after the purchases were made and wrapped; how Bob, under pretence to say something in her ear, suddenly shifted his mouth and gave her a rousing smack on the lips; the pretended anger and attempts to box his ears; to see what a time they had when they got to the post-office department; how he tried to make her believe there was a letter for her, which, when produced, turned out to be a lottery policy circular for her father; how they parted at the door with mysterious hints and winks intended for my benefit--all this was aggravating in the extreme; but what drove me nearly wild was Bob's pretended obliviousness of my presence.  I was never intended for a pirate, but when I saw, heard and felt all this, with that cheese-knife lying in easy reach, I felt as much like Captain Kidd did "when he sailed, when he sailed,?' as any good little boy ought to feel.</P>
005.sgm:<P>When Bob became aware of my presence he turned patronizingly and said, "Well, young man, what can I do for you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
005.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>360</PRINTPGNO>
005.sgm:<P>And then the airs he took on when off duty!  To see him on a Sabbath morning, when he should have been at Sunday-school, standing in front of the store talking to the hotel-keeper's daughter, was a sight.  Languidly leaning against the porch he would be seen smoking what I will be bound was a cigar of the Spanish brand--costing five cents; a fabulous price in those days, when you could get four for a penny--and which I will be further bound, in any reasonable recognizance, was not paid for, unless taking a five-cent piece out of the till and dropping it in again could be called compensation.  His hat would be stuck rakishly on the side of his head and his fingers thrust in his pants' pockets, with the thumbs pointing outward in the way still affected by Sprigs older than he.  This habit, I may remark, dates so far back that I can fancy Adam's little boys standing in that position; that is, if I could imagine them in trousers--which I cannot.  As we drove by, Bob would take his "five-center" from his lips, blow a cloud, and bestowing a patronizing nod on father go on talking to Miss Boniface.  Young store-tenders didn't wear paper collars in those days nor part their hair in the middle, yet they possessed an irresistible charm in the eyes of the village maids that must have been due to their vocation.  But I know one thing, and that is that he became unbearable to me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>At this period of my existence I recollect that for the ostensible purpose of advancing the cause of education, but, I fear, more with an eye to trade, the opposition store started a night school for the education of the village youth.  If with the former idea it was a delusion and a snare.  With the storekeeper acting the role of teacher we did sums on our slates and finished our "studies" by spelling.  I remember getting above several by spelling the word "twelfth."  Among the number who took side-steps to the rear was a large boy, who, while I was on my way home, waylaid me from behind a board pile, and told me he'd soon show me how to spell.  In my temerity I remarked "he'd have to spell able first," but before he was done with me I felt, physically speaking, as if he had left me with the mark of Cain!  I bit the dust a martyr to orthography and "science;" but that way of being "spelled down" I never liked.  Another boy, whom I had also got above, told me afterward it was good for me; but I could not see how it was.  But I was young then.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I pass on to the other regular <HI REND="italics">habitues</HI>
005.sgm: of the "country store."  Through the daytime the number was few and generally of the genus "loafer."  These passed the time in smoking, chewing, spitting at the stove to hear it "siz," and eying the customers, particularly the female portion, while they made their purchases.  Much herding together had used up and dwarfed their conversational powers, and they dwelt in a dreamy state -probably wondering why they had ever been created.  Occasionally one would start up, as if seized with an original idea, and ask if there was anything in the office for him, and then, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>But at the nightly <HI REND="italics">soirees</HI>
005.sgm: the house was crowded.  Then came the patrons of the store far and near.  Some came for goods, some for the mail, some to talk and some . to hear others talk, and all more or less to loaf.  There is the sturdy Squire, whose word, as befitted his office, was law; the shrewd farmer, and thrifty mechanic.  There is the henpecked husband, who fled from his home as the shades of night drew on apace to the congenial Society at the store. (That is he among the forks and shovels in a gloomy corner, smoking a mild cigar.)  There are the butcher, the baker and, if the trade were not an extinct one, the candlestick maker, the lively apprentice and farmer lads of various ages. The married members of this nightly-meeting <HI REND="italics">coterie</HI>
005.sgm:<P>Mark those two lads on the grocery counter, in rather too close propinquity to the powder magazine, considering they are smoking.  One of them is the son of the village doctor, who has sent him to the store for some groceries, with strict <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The lucky one of the nocturnal fixtures being seated in the only arm chair, the rest on bench, counter or with their pantaloons patched with nail kegs, the scene is interesting and instructive.  Behold the venerable loafer whose back has become bowed, his locks a snowy white and whose tongue has become slightly palsied in the service of his nightly audience.  Grown hardened in his sin of telling incredible stories, he has got to believe them himself.  There is the other nuisance who tells pointless yarns full of "I tell you what's," "you know's," "you see's," "says I's" and "says he's" until he becomes unendurable, except to his regular listeners.  There is the man who is so devoted to fishing that his mouth has grown like a sucker's, his eyes as of a cat!fish, and in getting out of paying his debts has become as an eel in slipperiness.  His tales are of the fish, fishy. There is the sportsman with hunting proclivities, who will lie by the hour if he can have listeners.  Too lazy to work, he will trudge from morning till night O'er hill and valley <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>The night wears on apace.  The crowd, in numbers, remains about the same, occasionally varying in <HI REND="italics">personnel</HI>
005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>My Tramp.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>BY JOHN SMITH.</P>
005.sgm:<P>ONLY a Tramp!</P>
005.sgm:<P>He stood before me dressed in a hat of the plug variety, which, by continued dinting, looked like the bellows of a lopsided accordion; and a coat whose sleeve cuffs showed by their silken glossiness that if he kept a pocket-handkerchief it was very derelict in performing its duty.</P>
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005.sgm:<P>When this unghostly apparition thrust itself into my presence I was in my store drawing off my last year's account. Sandwiched between the good bills, like spoiled ham between fresh baker's bread, were several bad ones. Here was John Doe, who, by paying cash at the start, had got into my good graces until I opened an account with him, when, by paying a little on the old score and buying more on a new, he had so run in my debt that I had refused him further credit, and he now went to the new opposition store, where he paid cash. John had just gone by with a string of mackerel in one hand and a jug of molasses in the other, which he carried with a defiant swing.  There was Richard Roe, whom I had nursed, speaking in a mercantile way, for some time, in the hope that he would receive a stroke of conscience and pay me like a man, but who, I had just learned, had run away between two days.  There were others of the same stamp who were making themselves apparent as I ran over the contents of my ledger, and I confess I was in rather an irritable mood when my tramp appeared before me, and I felt like inviting him to retire until I had more leisure to entertain him.  It is thus we often make the innocent the victims of the spleen which others have engendered.</P>
005.sgm:<P>But then he was only a tramp!</P>
005.sgm:<P>So was Franklin, when landing in Philadelphia, with his clothing sticking out of his pockets, he stood munching his roll of bread.  In this day and time he would have been avoided by man, while the dogs would have been invited to give him their special attention.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Only a tramp?</P>
005.sgm:<P>So was Homer, when, wandering through those seven noble cities of Greece, each of which afterward contended for the honor of being his birthplace, he begged his unwillingly-given bread.  In our prejudice how many Franklins and Homers we kick from our doors!</P>
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005.sgm:<P>I knew my interviewer was a tramp, but I pretended not. When he pulled some business-like papers from his coat pocket, I, in return, accused him with being a census man, a book agent and a church-subscription man.  But he denied these impeachments.  I reached hard-pan by hinting that he was a lightning rod agent, his coolness and impudence so amazed me.  At this he laughed outright, telling me in good English, for a Polander, that he had not come that low yet.</P>
005.sgm:<P>My tramp's mouth was a broad one, and when he emitted this laugh he showed his white teeth to that extent that they looked as if they might be the ivory keys belonging to the accordion whose bellows his wrinkled hat represented.  This conceit took such possession of me that I felt tempted to mash down that hat to see if there was any music in his soul, but I didn't, for he carried a knotty stick under his arm.</P>
005.sgm:<P>At his earnest request I took his proffered document.  It was about the color of a coffee-colored naturalization paper, but what it lacked in cleanliness it made up by unsavory odors.  Opening it and holding it at arm's length, I read:</P>
005.sgm:<P>"To the Benevolent:</P>
005.sgm:<P>"This is to certify that the bearer, Signor Vermi Celli, is a truthful, worthy man, but a man of misery.  He is a son of Italy; a dweller in the Valley of the Po.  On an island in that river is his estate.  During a fearful inundation, the past season, the floods enveloped it, So that he and his family were forced to its highest summits.  In order to procure support for them until the subsidence of the waters, he formed the resolution of swimming ashore and coming to America, where he trusts the charitable will pity the sorrows of a poor old man and give out of their abundance; and he will ever pray, etc.</P>
005.sgm:<P>"Signed, SIGNOR MACA RONI."</P>
005.sgm:<P>Having been a tramp, in a small way, once myself, I have an undue amount of pity for these houseless wanderers who are now devastating this country; these sturdy varlets, who, at an expense to the county of a dollar and a-half a night, get <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:against it as being something out of the usual way, and that he was used to being treated as if he was half white.  Much experimenting on the cookery of the various households he had invaded had made him quite a connoisseur in victuals.  He knew the proper time to turn up his nose at a cup of coffee, and he was aware when "tramp butter" was placed before him.  He mildly remonstrated against this oleaginous compound--an article we generally keep on hand in cases of emergency, much as your tobacco beggar's victim keeps an inferior article of "plug" for his many friends.  It was buckwheat cake season, and he showed much discrimination in feasting on those luxuries.  These grew "sicklied o'er with a pale cast" during the progress of the meal, when our guest intimated to my wife (who, of course, is the cake baker, Bridget disliking the business on account of the cold cakes falling to the follower of that profession) that he believed he was done; but his appetite returned, however, when the proper golden-brown hue was again attained, when, like Oliver the hungry, he asked for more.  After closing up the store and returning to the house, I found the vexed question of how our boarder was to be lodged for the night still uppermost in the female mind, and unsettled.  Objections being made to any more luxurious mode for his passing the nocturnal hours, he was sentenced to sleep on the sitting.room floor, from which there was no respite.  A horse blanket and rocking.chair cushion were the comforts assigned him, after which we retired; I with an undiminished confidence in human nature; my wife full of dark forebodings of robbery and perhaps assassination, and Bridget with a full determination of packing up and going to her "cousin's" in Lambertville the next morning.  As to how we spent the time until mornIng, each of us could have said with him of Gloucester, "Oh! I have passed a miserable night."  If let alone I would have slept the sleep of the just; but every half hour Mrs. Smith <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>When I came down stairs preparatory to stirring up the matinal fires and setting the day's work going generally, what a sight met my sleep-robbed eyes!  Where I had left a complete realization of the materialization of the genus <HI REND="italics">tramp</HI>
005.sgm: I found his disembodied clothes.  These, sometime during the night, he had so stuffed with cushions and other appliances as to much resemble the natural man as seen in the dim light of the Stove, while his hat hung rakishly on a broom-handle which stood back of his chair.  It was this object I had seen when I had last come down stairs, and hence the quiet that afterward reigned.  The same day on which my tramp made his appearance my wife had gone to the city and bought me a complete suit of best clothes, which she had shown me in the evening, and then laid them away in a cupboard in the sitting-room.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<P>One day while busily engaged in the grocery department of my store, shortly after the events narrated, my wife came in with a troubled look on her face and an opened letter in her hand.  It was addressed to her, and read as follows:</P>
005.sgm:<P>MUDDLETON, Jan. 6th, 1876.</P>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dear Mrs</HI>
005.sgm:. Smith.-Fearing the subject of the within local item, which I clip from the pages of the <HI REND="italics">Muddleton Gaslight</HI>
005.sgm:, may have got into his dissipated habits on account of the worriment of mind a Scolding Wife always occasions, I write to warn you, if such is the case, to be more considerate with him in the future.  When the prodigal returns home, on money loaned him by entire <HI REND="italics">strangers</HI>
005.sgm:, who, according to the poor man's story, are <HI REND="italics">angels</HI>
005.sgm:<P>REBECCA SHARP,</P>
005.sgm:<P>President Muddleton Sewing Society.</P>
005.sgm:<P>The following is the Local:</P>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Another Victim of the Demon Alcohol</HI>
005.sgm:.--This morning a sad eight was witnessed in front of Van Splutter's Lager Beer saloon, in the shape of what was once a respectably dressed man, lying in the gutter in a beastly state of intoxication.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:He was so stupefied that he was unable to give any account of himself.  He was at last brought around by the kindly offices of several small boys, who gathered about him and threw water in his face and pelted him with mud.  In searching his pockets for matches they came across several handfuls of pennies, which, for fear he might spend them for more rum, they generously agreed to take care of.  They ran off after throwing away the papers they found on him. These latter were picked up by a grocery drummer, who was temporarily in the town, and were the means of his recognition.  From memoranda found in his pockets it would appear that he was on his return home from buying goods; but according to his own confused statements he left home on account of family troubles, and sought to drown them in the <HI REND="italics">flowing bowl</HI>
005.sgm:.  He told a sorrowful tale.  It is a sad case, and should be a warning to wives to be more considerate, and always meet their husbands with a smile, etc.  The drummer, having an eye to business, loaned the poor man money to return home on, for which he was profuse in his thanks.  We would not wish to be invidious, and will mention no names, merely observing that, in his sober moments, if you called him John Smith he would answer to it, and that his store is not far from    town, Bucks County.  We will conclude by saying that, by a substitution of names, the old song would be appropriate for the occasion:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Schmidt Johannes is his name,<LB>America his nation;<LB>--town his dwelling-place,<LB>And brandy his damnation!"</HI>
005.sgm:<P>I threw down the paper in disgust.  "If ever I extend hospitality to another Bedouin of civilized life," said 1, "may I Excuse me, ma'am, did you say you wanted the mild Rio or the strong?"</P>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Company Trials.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P>THERE is a time in her housekeeping experience when a woman wishes she were either a man or dead: a brace of alternatives not so dissimilar when you reflect upon the future punishment that awaits man's selfishness in this life, and the quiet repose of death, and the reward in store for those who have been "weary and heavy laden." This time is when after doing a hard day's work and the hired girl gone she has seen a market wagon load of unexpected Company unloaded and settled down, and then beheld how light the burden of entertaining visitors falls on the alleged head of the household.  The first thing the latter does after ordering the hired man to put away the strange horses is to take the men folks-the whole load is "his folks," by the way -part of the company to the pig pen, and leaning over the trough discuss the relative merits of Berkshire and Chester Whites, until it is supposed that "Mother" has the parlor fire made.  Then they adjourn to the house, and with chairs tipped back at an angle of forty-five degrees, at the imminent risk of cutting through the new parlor carpet, discuss politics or whatever comes uppermost. They find the female guests already here, and engaged in looking over the autograph and photograph albums, and with a tight grip on the other end of the sympathetic chord which connects the two parties in the matter of the expected supper.  But while this party are enjoying themselves where is mother? She is down in the kitchen wondering what she will get for supper. She is done wondering whether or not the company will stay all night, for she cunningly got her boy to ask the little company girl how long they were going. to stay.  The little lad took an inopportune time to propound the inquiry, and made it before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
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005.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sketches in Rhyme.</HEAD>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>In the Shadow of Round Top.<LB>FROM the wooded crest of Round Top, north to Seminary Ridge,<LB>From its sulphur-shrouded ramparts east to Wolf Hill's rocky ledge<LB>Rolls the thunder of the conflict to the far horizon's edge<LB>Echoing loud from ridge to ridge.<LB>Crimson horrors mar their outlines; seething vapors veil the sky<LB>Cannon-booming, musket-rattle, yells and wailing mount on high;<LB>Ushered in with drum and trumpet march the birthdays of July,<LB>While the death-mist veils the sky.<LB>Back and forth fly iron shuttles, warps phantasmal mark their way<LB>Through a woof of lines of battle, tangled threads of Blue and Gray.<LB>Freedom's shroud or shroud of Treason weaves a thunderous loom to-day<LB>From the woof of Blue and Gray<LB>How the loyal Nation trembles through that bloody battle-week!<LB>How the fates of sons and brothers kindred pale and trembling seek!<LB>As bewildering, wire-borne voices from the dinning conflict speak,<LB>Through that dreadful battle-week.<LB>Telling how the Nation's heroes 'neath that bright midsummer's sun,<LB>In their grand self-sacrificing suffering, bleeding struggled on,<LB>Till our banners waved triumphant: Gettysburg was lost and won,<LB>Just as set the shrouded sun.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">From the bristling height of Round Top to the rebel-peopled plain<LB>Comes a sound of crashing thunder; comes a sheet of leaden rain;<LB>As red Death, with arms Briarean, starts his Sickles in the grain,<LB>On the rebel-peopled plain.<LB>Was that leader simply reckless that he thus destruction wooed?<LB>Did he disobey his orders, or were they misunderstood?<LB>Profitless the queries, for he paid the forfeit with his blood;<HI REND="italics">That</HI>
005.sgm: is not misunderstood.<LB>Elbow touching, centre dressing, on its colors rent and scarred,<LB>See that bright-hued line advancing, its allignment yet unmarred!<LB>See that Zouave battling fearless in the thinning color.guard!<LB>Round the flag so rent and scarred.<LB>He, our hero, leaving kindred, leaving friends behind him far,<LB>Cared for naught beside his country, sought no gleaming shoulder-bar;<LB>But, beside the humblest private, marched enlisted for the war.<LB>Friends and kin behind afar.<LB>Reigning in the social circle, glowing with poetic fire<LB>Was his mind and stored with knowledge, yet expanding, broader higher,<LB>Sore must be that Nation's sufferings, that such sacrifice require,<LB>Myriad lives through blood and fire.<LB>Home affection sought to stay him; love of country urged him on.<LB>Duty warred on inclination; short the struggle--duty won.<LB>And a letter, wrote in sorrow, came to tell that he had gone.<LB>Short the struggle--duty won!<LB>Nobly done that duty, whether 'neath the annalled conflicts roar,<LB>Or the unwritten picket skirmish, march or bivouac, he bore<LB>In his soul a glow flamboyant as the tortured martyrs wore<LB>In the dreadful days of yore.<LB>Now the rage and grim of battle mask his glowing countenance,<LB>As he charges with his comrades, with the colors in advance,<LB>War's dread horrors all around him pass unheeded to his glance,<LB>So the flag was in advance.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Vain those sacrificial offerings; for like vultures on their prey<LB>Swoop the gathering hosts of Treason; now the Patriots stand at bay;<LB>Now fall backward as they vainly strive the fierce advance to stay,<LB>Vainly strive to save the day.<LB>Slowly, sullenly retreating from the horrors gathering round,<LB>Him, our hero, they are leaving writhing on the reeking ground,<LB>Grasping still his heated musket, smitten by a mortal wound,<LB>While the horrors gather round.<LB>Oh, the anguish dire which fills him as he hears the foemen's yell,<LB>When he sees them rush victorious up the highway where he fell.<LB>Agonized in flesh and spirit, how he suffers, who can tell,<LB>While his foes victorious yell?<LB>Now he sees behind South Mountain smoke-veiled sink the reddening sun,<LB>And the moon from out the east hills has her arching course begun;<LB>While the stars in fear and trembling peer through heaven one by one;<LB>Sadly gleaming one by one.<LB>Growing fainter in the distance, still he hears the tireless strife;<LB>Hears the far-off cannon pounding, sees the air with meteors rife.<LB>Countless furies seem to mutter, "Blow for blow, and life for life!"<LB>Mid the yet unended strife.<LB>Sees the stubborn foemen slowly up the slopes of Round Top creep;<LB>Hears them as with shouts exultant rock and crag and wall they leap,<LB>Till the brave "Reserves" of Crawford hurl them headlong from the steep.<LB>Hard-won heights they could not keep.<LB>Hears their still more distant onset, strong in numbers, fierce of will,<LB>Echoing from the graveyard-mantled heights of Cemetery Hill,<LB>Till they turn back torn and shattered. Hushed the tumult, all is still.<LB>Silence covers vale and hill.<LB>Still unsuccored lies that hero, while the full moon high o'erhead<LB>Shows the writhing forms about him; shows the gaping, palled dead;<LB>Murmuring not, although the bullet burns within as molten lead,<LB>Murmuring not, though hope had fled.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Living all his young life over, back his wandering thoughts are sent,<LB>With his kin his thrilling heart-chords in a loving maze are blent;<LB>To the scenes beside the river, where his school-boy days were spent,<LB>Back his wandering thoughts are sent.<LB>Forward to the speculative future soon unveiled to be,<LB>Longing for the dread transition in his helpless agony,<LB>That would tear aside the veiling of a life-long mystery,<LB>Which alone the dead can see.<LB>Now his thoughts ring out harmonious to the distant battle's chime.<LB>Now they well from out his bosom in a weird and mournful rhyme,<LB>As the golden grains of memory trickle through the sieve of time,<LB>Full of weird and mournful rhyme.<LB>Still the invader holds possession; still the wounded plaintive moan;<LB>Still the rigid, staring corpses look straight up with eyes of stone<LB>At the moon which calm, unpitying, stalks her star-lit path alone,<LB>Heedless as those eyes of stone.<LB>Now the glowing hands of morning tear the shimmering veil of night<LB>From the earth's red riven bosom; and at noon, from height to height,<LB>Rings again the clash of armies as they grapple in their might,<LB>In the war of Wrong and Right.<LB>And again the spiteful rifle spits its fire from left to right;<LB>Yet again the yawning cannon gives its hidden devil flight,<LB>Till the war fiend, gorged to fulness, grants unwillingly respite,<LB>In the fight 'twixt Wrong and Right.<LB>Baffled is the dread invasion.  Echoing now from hill to hill,<LB>Hoarsely sounding Jubilates all the smoking welkin fill,<LB>Till again the moonbeams shimmer, and the earth is hushed and still.<LB>Silence covers vale and hill.<LB>Still the rebels hold that outpost; still the thirsty wounded moan;<LB>Still those calm, unpassioned corpses glare straight up with eyes of stone ;<LB>Still the moon, so phantom-ship-like, sails unheeding slowly on,<LB>Heedless as those eyes of stone.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Still ungathered lies that harvest swathed by death with reaper keen,<LB>Ripe and ready for the garner long neglected hath it been,<LB>But the harvesters are busy, they have other fields to glean,<LB>Swathed by death with reaper keen.<LB>Now beneath South Mountain's shadows, southward the invaders go<LB>Through the slanting rain and darkness in a fierce tumultuous flow;<LB>And give back the hard won acres with their harvest to the foe;<LB>Dead and dying lying low.<LB>And the gleaners come together, gather up the trampled sheaves,<LB>And they lay them in the garner; dust to dust the earth receives.<LB>O the thorns among the roses in the wreath which Victory weaves,<LB>Blood stains dull its laurel leaves!<LB>Well alligned down in the trenches, blankets muffled in a row,<LB>Like a sleeping line of battle waiting for the trumpet's blow.<LB>Shoulder touching comrade shoulder, as in life they faced the foe--<LB>Blanket muffled, lying low.<LB>And they gather up the living fragments of that festal day,<LB>And the jolting ambulances, o'er the late plowed fields away,<LB>Bear those maimed, neglected wounded, sad mementos of the fray--<LB>Fragments of war's festal day.<LB>Bear them fainting o'er the meadows which they late exultant trod,<LB>Up the slopes where late their lines in billows bayonet-crested flowed,<LB>To the hospitals beyond them, gleaming from the trampled sod,<LB>Slowly ebbed which fiercely flowed.<LB>Days and nights of suffering followed, when one day at early morn<LB>To that tented shrine there came a pilgrim old and travel-worn,<LB>With his staff and heavy burden--burden, he full long had borne,<LB>Came one day at early morn.<LB>And his plain attire bespoke him follower of that noble creed<LB>Taught of old by Penn and Barclay--born of persecution's seed.<LB>Mindful of the Light within him ever he in word and deed;<LB>Follower of a peaceful creed.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">His the lot to bear and suffer, though a soul of highest worth,<LB>Toiling ever, baffled often, still his genial smile came forth.<LB>Sad exemplar of the passage, "Our rewards are not of earth,<LB>Though with soul of highest worth."<LB>And among those tents he wandered, patriarch like of olden time,<LB>Seeking in their sad recesses him who in his manhood's prime,<LB>In that valley heard his death-knell ringing in the batteries' chime,<LB>Heard it in his manhood's prime.<LB>And at last his weary vision rests on a familiar face,<LB>Staring forth with wistful glances from that suffering-haunted place;<LB>And the seeker and the sought-for joyful, agonized embrace,<LB>In that suffering-haunted place.<LB>Now the lost was found, but succor want, neglect had made in vain,<LB>And the stream of life was ebbing slowly to its fount again;<LB>While delirium's weird, wild fancies o'er him had begun their reign.<LB>Want, neglect made help in vain.<LB>Now amid the social triumphs of his former life they dwell,<LB>Now his songs, his pupils chanting, in a soothing cadence swell,<LB>Now, above the crash of battle, comes the foeman's demon yell;<LB>Comes, alas! to break the spell.<LB>And he hears his comrades answering with defiant, ringing shout,<LB>Till the scenes and sounds commingle which encompass him about,<LB>And they die to softest murmurs and his lamp of light goes out-<LB>Darkens to illumine doubt!<LB>Now afar that hero-martyr bears that pilgrim in his woe,<LB>To the vale where passed his childhood by the river's murmuring flow,<LB>Where the remnant of a household-wide war.scattered--lay him low<LB>Near the river's murmuring flow.<LB>No funeral pomp surrounds him, o'er his grave fires no platoon,<LB>No bright flags enfold his coffin, drum nor trumpet ring no tune,<LB>As they lay him with his brothers on that summer's afternoon.<LB>Drum nor trumpet ring no tune.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Lay him there and part in sorrow; but, ere many years have flown;<LB>Comes that pilgrim, life aweary, there to lay his burden down.<LB>Comes to reap a life-sown harvest, from the Cross to take the Crown,<LB>When he'd lain his burden down.</HI>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>John Burns Again.<HI REND="italics">After Bret Harte--Several Years</HI>
005.sgm:.<LB>WHO hasn't heard of old John Burns?<LB>The man so praised and slandered by turns<LB>Till some, as the stories to mind they recall,<LB>Much doubt if he ever lived at all.<LB>For who ever led such a double life<LB>As he, when the Boys in Blue held strife<LB>With the rebs in gray and butternut brown<LB>On the hills o'erlooking Gettysburg town?<LB>For he saw no fight, yet he bravely fought-<LB>Was badly wounded, yet he was not<LB>A valiant soldier, a cowardly brag,<LB>A crusty crank, a comical wag,<LB>A poor shoemaker in rented house,<LB>A thrifty farmer with "bees and cows!"<LB>Why such contrariness, when, forsooth,<LB>'Tis so much easier to tell the truth?<LB>Where the quiet streets come sloping down<LB>The sun-set side of Gettysburg town,<LB>And shady suburb to meadow turns<LB>You'll find the house of old John Burns.<LB>A rustic cottage I'd like to paint;<LB>Many-gabled and mossy and quaint;</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">With ivied walls and a Soral arch<LB>Bridging the front of the latticed porch;<LB>With flower-lined paths, and nooks with ferns,<LB>Surroundings for which the soulful yearns,<LB>But not the surroundings of brave John Burns.<LB>I would fain give rein to the vain asthetic,<LB>But I'd rather be truthful than poetic;<LB>So I must come down to language tame<LB>And show a "story and a half of frame,"<LB>With whitewash painted, a flowerless lawn--<LB>'Tis not the picture I counted on.<LB>But I care not who from the canvas turns;<LB>It shows you the home of old John Burns.<LB>And here he lived from year to year,<LB>The sort of fellow who some call queer.<LB>For he paid his debts, but to make amends<LB>Minded his business and stuck to his friends,<LB>Like the wax with which he shaped his ends!<LB>For as to the trade of old John Burns,<LB>He made and mended shoes by turns;<LB>So he sewed and pegged away, and here<LB>Life's stream ran smoothly for many a year.<LB>In the summer days, when his work was done,<LB>He would sit on his steps, while the slanting sun<LB>Sent its beams on his little house of frame<LB>Till the gable windows danced aflame,<LB>And look on scenes in the glowing west,<LB>With peaceful thoughts in his thankful breast.<LB>And truly it was a goodly sight,<LB>Did he look to the front or left or right,<LB>Where the vista spread for many a rood,<LB>Dotted with farm-house, orchard and wood.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Just in front was the famed Oak Ridge,<LB>While on the far horizon's edge,<LB>Lifting it up on either hand,<LB>Arose South Mountain rugged and grand,<LB>Hiding the Valley of Cumberland.<LB>Peaceful the time, but it soon passed o'er,<LB>And the cruel demon of civil war<LB>Had plowed the land and the harvest made<LB>For the reaper Death with his crescent blade.<LB>Throbbings of hope and fear by turns<LB>Pulsed through the heart of old John Burns.<LB>For the "canny Scot" was a patriot true,<LB>Who longed to fight in the ranks of Blue.<LB>But gathering years had bowed him down,<LB>And he needs must stay in Gettysburg town.<LB>So he fretted and fumed day after day,<LB>Though he pegged and stitched and hammered away.<LB>For there needs to he soling and heeling of shoes<LB>Though the war eagle screeches or peace dove cooes;<LB>Though nations go tottering to luckless fate,<LB>Shoemakers must work and customers wait.<LB>One day through the streets of the startled town<LB>An army of horsemen came riding down,<LB>Rebels in gray and butternut brown.<LB>Streaming with tatters their dusty clothes,<LB>Full of vermin, as they with oaths,<LB>Georgia "crackers," "tar-heel" toughs,<LB>Texas cow-boys, Arkansaw roughs;<LB>But plucky in battle as well as defeat,<LB>These ragged fellows were hard to beat,<LB>As with rattle of spur and jingle of sword,<LB>Like a noisy dream, swept the hungry horde</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">On their Northward road.  In another day<LB>Came Buford and Reynolds the selfsame way,<LB>With their Yankee troops, with marching worn,<LB>But their shot-riven flags were proudly borne,<LB>As 'mid clangor and shouts they galloped down<LB>The sloping streets of Gettysburg town.<LB>And where was Burns that fateful day,<LB>When our boys were gathering for the fray?<LB>The man who had said he was ready to fight<LB>As soon as the rebels came in sight?<LB>Down in his shoe shop mending shoes,<LB>Pegging away, but full of the Blues<LB>As the town that morn, for he wanted to fight,<LB>But he'd promised some work that was not done quite;<LB>For I'd have you know the doubtingest Thomas<LB>Ne'er said John Burns went back on a promise!<LB>On the floor was his work in a tidy row,<LB>From coarsest brogan to baby's shoe,<LB>Alligned as if on dress parade;<LB>And on his shoe bench lately made,<LB>A present from old John Burns 'tis said,<LB>Were the wedding slippers of Jennie Wade.<LB>Poor girl! in another day to fall,<LB>Shot dead by a rebel rifle ball,<LB>While, laying aside all girlish fears,<LB>She was baking bread for our cannoniers!<LB>He hears a cannon; he quickly turns<LB>His face to the north, does old John Burns,<LB>And he sees a sight from his house of frame<LB>That sets his tingling blood aflame;<LB>For foemen are gathering to bring renown<LB>And tears and sorrow to Gettysburg town.<LB>In vain for him is that signal gun,<LB>For the promised shoes are not yet done.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Nor he the man from duty to shirk;<LB>So he goes on finishing up his work.<LB>Boom! Boom!  Again the cannon's clamor<LB>Plays base to the tenor of his hammer,<LB>As he works away with his stubborn will,<LB>To get through so as to go on the hill.<LB>But now his senses seemed spell-bound,<LB>When a change came o'er all things around.<LB>He saw himself an avenging knight,<LB>Predestined to set the wrong things right.<LB>His garments changed from their cut so queer<LB>To the courtly dress of a cavalier.<LB>From its peg on the side of the dingy room<LB>His napless white hat seemed to bloom<LB>To a Highland bonnet with nodding plume.<LB>His shoe-knife grew to a bright claymore,<LB>As heavy as Bruce or Wallace bore.<LB>While his hammer changed to the sledge of Thor,<LB>Pounding the brazen gong of war.<LB>His awls to hilted daggers grew,<LB>Seeking the hearts of Treason's crew.<LB>The shoe-pegs, ranged in their little stalls,<LB>Grew and hardened to Minnie balls.<LB>While his ink--in a horn--seemed like a flood<LB>Of bubbling, seething, traitor's blood.<LB>Each coil from his ball of thread let loose<LB>Twisted and curled to a hangman's noose,<LB>Ready to give the rebs their dues.<LB>While the muffled stroke on the leathered stone<LB>Seemed "sickening thuds" for traitors gone.<LB>And each dubious bill on his little slate,<LB>A repudiated Southern debt!<LB>But this last gave such a twinge of pain,<LB>He aroused and went to work again.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Testily rasping the sole of his shoe,<LB>He pared the edge and blackened them too.<LB>Marked on the shining face the price,<LB>Then said, as he shut his mouth like a vise:<LB>"I've kept my promise," and then he laughed,<LB>When he added: "I'll never disgrace my craft!"<LB>Thus John, and he stiffly rose to his feet,<LB>Folded his apron tidy and neat.<LB>Then he called to his good wife Barbara,<LB>"I've a job of work on the Ridge to-day.<LB>If young and able-bodied fellers<LB>Choose to hide like rats in the cellars,<LB>I'll show my colors and go the front<LB>And share with the boys the battle's brunt."<LB>He shows her the row of customers' shoes;<LB>Tells whom to trust and whom to refuse;<LB>Then her toil-worn hands he tightly grips,<LB>Till they tingle to their finger tips.<LB>And looking around that no one saw,<LB>He frightened the weeping Barbara<LB>With a smacking kiss on her puckered lips-<LB>For he wasn't one of the kissing kind,<LB>Though a tenderer man you couldn't find--<LB>And blushing and trembling standing there,<LB>To him she was as young and fair<LB>As when he bore her a bonnie bride<LB>In far off days from the banks of Clyde.<LB>From his heart there seems a lifted load,<LB>As he moves along the dusty road;<LB>And his halting gait works up to the stride<LB>Of a soldier filled with martial pride;<LB>While he lifts his head with a pose severe<LB>That would please the eye of a grenadier,<LB>As he hears the sounds and sees the sight<LB>That tells the opening of the fight.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Sections of batteries thundered by,<LB>Followed by squadrons of cavalry;<LB>And limping on with blistered feet,<LB>The tired foot-soldiers filled the street;<LB>While on the hill top, smoke enplumed,<LB>The hot breathed cannon ceaseless boomed;<LB>And underneath was heard the whir<LB>Of the random ball of the skirmisher;<LB>But neither to right nor left he turns,<LB>But on like fate stalks old John Burns,<LB>With soul aflame and teeth on edge,<LB>And never stops till he mounts the Ridge.<LB>And here he sees, in the rising din,<LB>The Seventh Wisconsin going in;<LB>And he says to the Colonel, "Give us a gun,<LB>And I'll help you to make the rebels run!"<LB>Just then a shell tore up the dirt--<LB>"Run home, old fellow, or you'll get hurt,"<LB>Said the Colonel.  But John roared back in wrath,<LB>As he stood unflinched in the fiery bath,<LB>"There's no room there, for all the cellars<LB>Are full to the joists with home-guard fellers,<LB>So give us a gun."  And the Colonel said,<LB>Under the orders he roared o'erhead,<LB>"There's none to spare," and he said with a smile,<LB>"There'll be plenty if you'll wait awhile,"<LB>As he changed the order to "Fire by file."<LB>Just then came the "zip" of a Minnie ball<LB>And a tall file-closer was seen to fall,<LB>And when to his side John quickly sped,<LB>No thought had he of robbing the dead,<LB>But rather that of grafting his life<LB>To this one laid low in the battle's strife,<LB>And to finish the work he'd just begun.-<LB>With short apology fighting John</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Grasped from the tight-clenched hand the gun,<LB>Smoking and warm; nor pangs he felt<LB>As he took the cartridge-box and belt<LB>From the dying man, and buckled them on,<LB>For the blood was hot in fighting John.<LB>And he stepped in line with an iron will,<LB>And not forgetting his old-time skill,<LB>When he gunned for squirrels on yonder hill,<LB>And which in his eyes yet seemed to lurk,<LB>He spat on his hands and went to work.<LB>How he and the boys had another spat<LB>About his clothes and bell-crowned hat,<LB>Bret Harte has told you all of that!<LB>No matter if some his story doubt-<LB>So I'll just narrate what he left out.<LB>Not caring a peg for Hardee's drill,<LB>John's plan was to "load and fire at will;"<LB>And as he blazed to left and right<LB>Each shot gave vent to a special spite.<LB>This for Sumpter.  That Bull Run-<LB>And here he double-shotted his gun;<LB>This Fredericksburg.  That Chancellorsville-<LB>For each he shot with a will to kill.<LB>This for the time he kept away<LB>From the ranks of the Blue in front of the Gray.<LB>That for the dead Wisconsin man,<LB>Whose record ended when his began.<LB>Mute but appealing lying there-<LB>And here he "loaded his gun for bear,"<LB>This for his colonel wounded sore-<LB>'Twas then as he banged away he swore.<LB>Till with this for that and that for this,<LB>Firing away with seldom a miss,<LB>His cartridge-box was emptied quite<LB>Before he had shot away his spite.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">How many were killed, or wounded fell,<LB>From piercing bullet and gashing shell,<LB>He never noticed, but with the rest<LB>His only thought was doing his best!<LB>Thus Gettysburg's patriot grim and lone,<LB>With a borrowed gun but a will of his own,<LB>Loading, aiming, firing away;<LB>So full of life was he that day<LB>From his acts you'd scarce the inference draw<LB>He was dead in the Psalmist's Scriptural law.<LB>He got more bullets--this man of pluck,<LB>Unarmed as yet; but changed his luck<LB>When a low aimed shot his ankle struck.<LB>But still he could fire; when another one<LB>Crippled the arm that steadied his gun;<LB>Another, and Burns fell prone to the ground,<LB>One added to plenty lying around;<LB>And they bore him off as the sun went down<LB>Over the hill and into the town.<LB>And there he lay while the battle surged<LB>Till the fiery day into night had merged,<LB>While the men in Gray pushed the boys in Blue<LB>The streets of Gettysburg through and through,<LB>Capturing some and driving the rest<LB>Till they wearied dropped on the graveyard crest,'<LB>When the guns of Steinwehr, grim and black,<LB>Pelted their fierce pursuers back.<LB>And another day, while the rebel right<LB>Was fighting our left for Round Top's height,<LB>Till the famed Peach Orchard ground was filled<LB>With fallen soldiers maimed and killed,<LB>And horses dead by the burst caissons<LB>Just in rear of the useless guns.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Till the trees which in April bloomed with pearl,<LB>Blushed red with the rain of that tempest whirl.<LB>While the smoke-grimed imps in the "Devil's Den"<LB>Were rifling the lives of our Round Top men,<LB>And each rock on the slope of "Granite Spur"<LB>Blazed with the fire of a skirmisher.<LB>While round-shot, shell and musket ball<LB>Were threshing the wheat so yellow and tall,<LB>That gleamed in the valley far below<LB>Alive with the charge of the coming foe,<LB>Till the tangled straw seemed from the heights<LB>Dotted all over with gruesome sights.<LB>And yet he lay while roared and raved<LB>The fight and the rent flags drooped or waved,<LB>Till the twilight shades came quivering down<LB>Over the sulphur waves of brown,<LB>When the fiery rebels of Hoke and Hays<LB>Were charging the Federal battle-blaze,<LB>When the gunners were tickling with rammer and swab<LB>Their gun-throats till with retch and throb<LB>They vomited hells of iron and fire<LB>On the torn waves rising higher and higher,<LB>Till they made them turn and backward pour<LB>With their wreckage crowding the sloping shore;<HI REND="italics">Flotsam and jetsam</HI>
005.sgm: high and dry<LB>For the wreckers to gather by and by.<LB>And there he lay that terrible day,<LB>That final day when the grim array;<LB>The storming column of Pickett stood<LB>Enmassed behind the screening wood,<LB>Left flanked and charged the meadow slopes,<LB>Of hopes forlon, forlornest of hopes!<LB>The cannon which an hour or more<LB>Had vexed the air have ceased their roar.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The Federals, ranged from height to height,<LB>In awe-struck silence view the sight<LB>As onward the Confederate braves<LB>Come marching o'er their future graves,<LB>And as they cross the meadow's marge<LB>They double-quick the final charge<LB>Now roar the Federal guns again,<LB>Now flash their hundred fires amain,<LB>The graveyard frees its hidden death<LB>And Round Top blows its poisoned breath,<LB>While the long, low ridge which lies between<LB>Seething with fire and smoke is seen.<LB>The torn lines break but charge again;<LB>Behind a broadening trail of slain,<LB>In front a narrowing sea of gray,<LB>On the famed Stone Wall breaks away,<LB>Reddening the surface with its spray.<LB>And still he heard from the lonely ward<LB>The battle above as it surged and roared,<LB>While the bursting shells wove a fiery bridge<LB>Of arches which sprang from ridge to ridge.<LB>Spanning the reeking battle mist,<LB>Over which they shrieked and hissed;<LB>Spanning the swaying noisy sea<LB>Of demonized humanity<LB>With its under current flowing red,<LB>Wounded and dying among the dead.<LB>The sun rose twice, and twice went down,<LB>Back of the mountains dim and brown;<LB>Twice the moon with softened glare<LB>Rode through the sulphur-laden air,<LB>And the fight was over.  Ah! who can tell<LB>How many were sleeping where they fell.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The fight was over, but victory<LB>Didn't perch on the banners of General Lee,<LB>Who holstered his pistols and sheathed his sword,<LB>And getting ahead of his rebel horde<LB>They stole--'twas a way they had--away<LB>Through the mountain pass of Monterey,<LB>And off to the South-land skurried down,<LB>Sick and tired of Gettysburg town.<LB>And still Burns lay in his lonely ward,<LB>Tho' hushed were the guns which so lately roared,<LB>Still o'er him the Hither and Yon held strife<LB>On the skirmish ground 'twixt death and life,<LB>For the wounding bullets the probe withstood,<LB>And fever was firing his meagre blood,<LB>The rebels around him--the burning pain--<LB>The battle echoes had turned his brain.<LB>He was fighting still in the sultry sun,<LB>Down by the banks of Willoughby Run,<LB>Swathing the rebels with his gun-<LB>The borrowed gun which this honest man<LB>Was worrying how to return again-<LB>In the gathering smoke and rising noise,<LB>In the line with the brave Wisconsin boys,<LB>Again was he coaxing left and right<LB>His neighbors to get their guns and fight;<LB>Again these subterranean dwellers<LB>Who served their country down in their cellars,<LB>Rang in his ears their senseless prate,<LB>"They also serve who watch and wait."<LB>While this was the loud refrain of some,<LB>"What would be done if we all left home?<LB>Again was he calling them rats and moles,<LB>And telling them all to come out of their holes<LB>As he did before.  And that is why<LB>When you talk of Burns they look so shy.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Instead of giving him votes of thanks,<LB>As they would have done in the elder Rome,<LB>They vote him a crusty king of cranks,<LB>They call him a bug of the genus hum;<LB>And this is the local fame one earns<LB>Who does his duty like old John Burns.<LB>One day in his ears these words were lipped,<LB>"The battle is over, the rebs are whipped!"<LB>His wandering mind to the words caught on,<LB>The fever quick from his brain was gone;<LB>The bullets which had so stubborn proved<LB>To the probing steel like magnets moved;<LB>And getting one of his cranky turns,<LB>He soon got well, did old John Burns,<LB>In spite of all the doctor's rules,<LB>And hobbled back to his bench and tools,<LB>And stitched and pegged and hammered away<LB>As he did of old, until one day<LB>Death came along with his manner rough-<LB>As he handles his victims tender or tough-<LB>Gathered him in and bore him off<LB>With the neighbors' help, and laid him away<LB>By the bones of his old wife, Barbara,<LB>On the hill o'erlooking his house of frame,<LB>And the field where he won his deathless fame.<LB>Now this is the last of old John Burns,<LB>Gashed by bullets and rhymes by turns;<LB>The rebels commenced, and Bret and I<LB>Have finished their work successfully,<LB>And laid him to rest on the hills that frown<LB>On the peaceful homes of Gettysburg town.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Jennie Wade.<HI REND="italics">Killed at Gettysburg, July</HI>
005.sgm:, 1863.<LB>HAVE you heard the story of Jennie Wade<LB>And Corporal Skelly, her Boy in Blue?<LB>Gettysburg's "Saragossa Maid"<LB>And his country's soldier brave and true?<LB>When the shells burst over spire and roof,<LB>And the balls hissed up and down the street,<LB>And people, from danger to keep aloof,<LB>Hid in the cellar's safe retreat,<LB>Brave Jennie the dangers heeded none,<LB>But in her cottage worked away<LB>Baking the brown loaves one by one<LB>For the boys who fought on the hill that day.<LB>When lo! as she worked, a rebel ball<LB>Like an adder hissed through the open door,<LB>And the stricken maiden tottered to fall<LB>Lifeless upon her kitchen floor.<LB>Never to know her soldier lover,<LB>Corporal Skelly, light of her eye,<LB>Joy of her young heart over and over,<LB>Wounded, had lain him down to die.<LB>Down where the Shenandoah River,<LB>With current reddened, sought the sea,<LB>Its bosom with war-sounds ever a-quiver,<LB>As the battle-clouds their bolts set free.<LB>When the Minnie balls sang through the thickets-<LB>In place of the song-birds scared away-<LB>After the bugle recalled the pickets,<LB>And ere the batteries got in play.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">When the skirmish line grew thinner and thinner<LB>And our army's edges were torn and frayed,<LB>Ere the fight worked on to bass from tenor,<LB>The bullet flew hot that low him laid.<LB>Laid him low, in life ne'er knowing<LB>His love in death on her hearth-stone bled,<LB>From rebel bullet her heart's blood flowing;<LB>Neither to know the other dead.<LB>This is the story of Jennie Wade<LB>And Corporal Skelly, her Boy in Blue!<LB>Gettysburg's "Saragossa Maid"<LB>And her country's soldier brave and true.</HI>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The Old Grist Mill.<LB>HALF hidden by weeping willows,<LB>At the foot of a wooded hill,<LB>In a setting of quiet beauty<LB>Nestles the old grist-mill.<LB>Its roof is seamed and moss-covered,<LB>And tottering is its wall,<LB>And silent and still is the water-wheel<LB>All compassed in Time's enthrall.<LB>Slimy and green is the penstock,<LB>And covered with nettles rank;<LB>Weed-grown the winding mill-race,<LB>Crevasses cleave its banks.<LB>The willow's coquettish branches<LB>Are kissing the glassy pond,<LB>With its splatterdocks in floating flocks,<LB>And the thicket-lined shore beyond.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Back to the days of my boyhood<LB>My thoughts fly on memory's wings,<LB>I see the old mill in its glory;<LB>What spray the big water-wheel flings!<LB>As the buckets strike the water<LB>With merry, pattering sound,<LB>And what rattling peals the counter-wheels<LB>Ring out as they whirl around!<LB>Hark how the mill-stones rumble<LB>As the golden grain runs through!<LB>List to the clattering "damsel"<LB>Shaking the agueish "shoe!"<LB>Swiftly is gliding the belting-<LB>The cogs reel round in a maze-<LB>As with mute surprise in my juvenile eyes<LB>I wondering stand and gaze.<LB>There stands the miller musing<LB>On the ups and downs of corn,<LB>His form appears bowed down with years<LB>And the weighty sacks he's borne.<LB>Dust wraps him round like a halo-<LB>Dented his mealy hat-<LB>An honest old man is the miller I scan,<LB>Though they say his hogs are fat.<LB>Weighing out quarters of flour-<LB>Measuring bushels of feed-<LB>Plenty of grist work his dower-<LB>Plenty of water his need.<LB>Toiling from morning till even,<LB>Grinding the golden grain;<LB>When death one day chanced over that way<LB>And heavenward jogged the twain.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">No longer the spectral miller<LB>At his onerous post is found;<LB>From his haunts he's missed, he's ground his grist,<LB>And the miller's grist is ground.<LB>Well toled, they say, was his grist work,<LB>Well told were the yarns he spun,<LB>Well tolled was the bell at his funeral<LB>After his work was done.<LB>And now that mill is standing<LB>Cheerless and silent and old.<LB>Owls and bats through the windows<LB>Are flying fearless and bold.<LB>Time and the rats are gnawing<LB>At rafter and beam and floor;<LB>And soon the old mill, so silent and still,<LB>Will crumble to rise no more.<LB>Oh! what is the world but a grist-mill?<LB>Where Right is ground down by Power;<LB>Where Fashion is grinding its minions<LB>Into very indifferent flour.<LB>Where Vice is crushing out Virtue,<LB>And the Rich grind down the Poor.<LB>Where grists of Cares and Hopes and Fears<LB>Pass in and out at the door!<LB>Oh, what is Life but a mill-stone?<LB>Turning round once each day;<LB>Crushing us, tearing us, grinding us,<LB>Slowly but surely away.<LB>Grimly, remorselessly gliding,<LB>Stilling the panting breath;<LB>Who is that ghastly miller?<LB>Who but the scarecrow--Death?</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>A Lyric of the Cuttalossa.*<LB></HI>
005.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n2">*</ANCHOR>
005.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2">*On the Cuttalossa, two miles from its mouth, is a spring which has had much printed notice from its romantic surroundings.  It had long been utilized as a place of liquid refreshment by placing there a water-trough and drinking-cup.  The latter, a cocoa shell neatly handled, had an apt inscription placed upon it.  A colored teamster from Buckingham bore the cup away for private use; but brought it back on hearing that the road-master had posted up a notice threatening the abductor with suspension unless he did so.</NOTE>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>WHERE Cuttalossa's waters<LB>Roll murmuring on their way,<LB>'Twixt hazel clumps and 'alders,<LB>'Neath old trees mossed and gray,<LB>Just where across the valley,<LB>From the old, old grist-mill come<LB>The water-wheel's low patter,<LB>The mill-stone's drowsy hum.<LB>Here sparkling from its birthplace<LB>Just up the rifled hill,<LB>O'er tiny cascades leaping,<LB>Comes down a little rill;<LB>Till in a rude built fountain<LB>It pours its crystal tide,<LB>Just where the road comes winding<LB>On the valley opening wide.<LB>Here a Samaria-dweller<LB>Had brought a rustic cup,<LB>From the milky cocoa fashioned,<LB>And there had hung it up.<LB>A little gem poetic,<LB>From New England's Quaker bard,<LB>With his name beneath, was graven<LB>Upon its outlines hard.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Here through the sweltering summer<LB>The thirsty wayfarer stopped<LB>To quaff this liquid manna-<LB>This nectar heaven-dropped.<LB>There Dives in his ph&aelig;ton,<LB>There Jehu with his wain,<LB>And the ragged, grimy tramper<LB>Met on a common plane.<LB>Met in this Temperance tavern,<LB>With swaying branches roofed;<LB>The bar-maids wanton Naiads;<LB>While Satyrs horned and hoofed,<LB>Played hostler; while no landlord<LB>With bills the guests did vex-<LB>They freely drained the cocoa<LB>Of Adam's XXX!<LB>One sleepy, summer noontide,<LB>When all was still around,<LB>Save when, like a tired bee's buzzing,<LB>A Pan-pipe's droning sound<LB>Came drowsily from the meadow,<LB>Morpheus, the tricky elf,<LB>Fast bound the fountain guardians,<LB>So the bar had to run itself.<LB>That day a colored orphan,<LB>Of fifty years or so,<LB>Just from a neighboring province,<LB>Stopped here his mules to blow.<LB>He spied the pendant goblet-<LB>This "child-like" son of Ham,<LB>Quoth he, "That palm-born cocoa<LB>Will soothe my 'itching palm.'</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">"Oh what a cup for cider!<LB>I'll put it to that use,<LB>And drink from it genial bumpers<LB>Of beady apple.juice."<LB>Then this colored man and brother<LB>Glanced warily toward the mill,<LB>Low humming across the valley,<LB>And the farm-house on the hill.<LB>Then spake, "One Whittier owns it;<LB>But I do not care a--clam,<LB>Not one whit I err in taking,<LB>For wittier I am.<LB>For wit I e'er was famous,<LB>In logic I bear the palm,<LB>So away I'll bear the palm-fruit,<LB>And hie to the land of Ham!"<LB>So he quick annexed the cocoa--<LB>His conscience gave no qualm-<LB>Saying with tragic Richard,<LB>"This much for Buckingham!"<LB>The elves awakening, seeing<LB>The spoiler had been there,<LB>The Satyrs stamped their goat-hoofs,<LB>The Naiads tore their hair,<LB>And fearing the wrath of Dian-<LB>She of the groves and fields--<LB>The Naiads took to the water,<LB>The Satyrs took to their heels.<LB>While this brother bore his treasure<LB>Homeward, and late that night<LB>He tapped the frothing cider,<LB>With blithesome heart and light.<LB>But oh, what horrors seized him<LB>When he to drink essayed;</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Fierce spasms shook his muscles,<LB>He felt a nameless dread.<LB>'Twas cider-phobia had him<LB>Within its awful grasp.<LB>He sought his couch in terror,<LB>And many a thirsty gasp.<LB>He prays aloud for Morpheus-<LB>His prayer naught avails;<LB>His bed seems filled with chestnut burrs,<LB>His pillow with wrought nails.<LB>These prick-like stings of conscience,<LB>He tosses to and fro,<LB>Crying out, "No wretch so suffered<LB>On earth or down below.<LB>"Not vulture-gnawed Prometheus,<LB>Chained to his lonely rock;<LB>Nor Tantalus, ever baffled<LB>By the waters that him mock.<LB>Not Ixion, ever turning,<LB>Snake-bound, upon his wheel;<LB>Nor Sisyphus, ever rolling<LB>His stone up an endless hill.<LB>"O is't what folks call conscience<LB>That makes this night a hell?<LB>O for some incantation<LB>To break this magic spell.<LB>O for some Afric sorcerer,<LB>Some grim magician's wand,<LB>Some 'fetich' of my fathers,<LB>From far Apingi land.<LB>"Come from the mountain, Dinah!<LB>Once chaste Diana called.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Come from thy haunts and tell me<LB>What has my spirit thralled!,,<LB>Scarce was the prayer uttered,<LB>When the Sylvan Goddess come,<LB>And with her presence haloed<LB>And glorified the room.<LB>"Burnt-corked" her Grecian profile,<LB>Her "Grecian Bend" curved high;<LB>Crimped were her flowing tresses,<LB>"Greek fire" was in her eye.<LB>And thus she spake, "Oh, monster!<LB>Who with sacrilegious hand<LB>Stole a vessel from my altar,<LB>List while I thee command!<LB>Before to-morrow's noontide<LB>Take thou that goblet back,<LB>Or fiercer pangs than ever<LB>Thy recreant soul shall rack.<LB>"And traveler, be he tramper,<LB>Or Dives with his chaise,<LB>Or Jehu with his wagon,<LB>Will curse thee day by day.<LB>E'en now the roadway guardian,<LB>A note has posted up,<LB>The fate of Haman threatening<LB>To the robber of' Our Cup.'<LB>"If peace thou wishest, promise,<LB>Or by the fabled boar,<LB>Ancestral curse shall reach thee<LB>From far Zambesi's shore,<LB>Of the arch-baboon Darwinian,<LB>Our sire pre-Adamite-<LB>Its Upas bane shall shade thee,<LB>Life's fairest prospects blight."</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Thus she; with teeth a-chatter,<LB>He promised.  From the room<LB>She rode off on a moonbeam,<LB>And left the place in gloom.<LB>The chestnut burrs turned feathers,<LB>To down the nails were wrought,<LB>He slept the just man's slumbers,<LB>Till day its duty brought.<LB>Then he geared his long-eared comrades,<LB>And the cocoa shell conveyed<LB>To the nook beside the roadway,<LB>Where the bubbling fountain played.<LB>A weight was off his spirits,<LB>His whistle blithe and gay,<LB>Rang out on the Cuttalossa,<LB>As he went his winding way.<LB>The woodland sprites, exultant,<LB>In sportive gambols played,<LB>Pan-piping a Bacchanal measure,<LB>Frisked up and down the glade.<LB>While the goat-like prancing Satyrs,<LB>And the Naiads scant arrayed,<LB>Keeping time to the pipes' wild music,<LB>Danced minuets in the shade.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Dickens.<LB>I SEE his grand creations rise<LB>In troops from depths abysmal,<LB>And file along before my eyes,<LB>With faces gay to dismal-<LB>Gay like the jolly, jovial Mark,<LB>Perennially cheerful;<LB>In every shade of character,<LB>To Gummidge, always tearful.<LB>Well to the front stalks Copperfield,<LB>Whose future ope'd so dreary<LB>When boyhood's trials weighing down<LB>Made him of life a-weary;</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Till, hopefully, he trudged along<LB>When time made all things even,<LB>And all his purgatorial paths<LB>Merged to an earthly heaven.<LB>In thinking of his rival girls,<LB>With Pat I'd say: "Be gorra!<LB>I'd taken Agnes at the start-<LB>Not waste those years with Dora."<LB>You cannot find a nobler type,<LB>Through Dickens' women sorting,<LB>But she should not have been slow,<LB>And done some livelier courting.<LB>While David, burdened with his doll,<LB>Looked back with glances yearning<LB>To that regretted point in life<LB>When Agnes graced the turning.<LB>Close by Aunt Trotwood walks erect,<LB>Afl if naught would unbend her;<LB>And yet beneath that rugged form<LB>Were heart-throbs pulsing tender.<LB>And here comes Peggoty, the nurse,<LB>With cheeks like russet apples;<LB>Her brother Daniel, rough but kind,<LB>Whose tongue such English grapples;<LB>And little Em'ly, at whose face<LB>Such lecherous glances leer forth<LB>From him for whom Ham lost his life:<LB>The polished villain Steerforth.<LB>And Tommy Traddles, Simple Dick,<LB>And more along come trooping.<LB>I'll have to stop, they come so thick,<LB>And seek another grouping.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Ah! here is Pip in churchyard bounds,<LB>As day grows dim and dimmer,<LB>Trying to con life's early tasks,<LB>With tombstones for his primer.<LB>And convict Magwitch shuffles by,<LB>I hear his chain's harsh clangor;<LB>While henpecked Gargery plods along,<LB>Lashed by his shrew-wife's anger;<LB>And ponderous Orlick, holding tight<LB>His murderous blacksmith hammer;<LB>And cautious Wemmick, and the "Aged"--<LB>His ears so proof to clamor.<LB>And weird Miss Havisham appears,<LB>And convict-born Estella;<LB>A shame she e'er should wed our Pip--<LB>He was too nice a fellow.<LB>Another group: "Our Mutual Friend"<LB>Stands forth in outlines splendid;<LB>Who gave up fortune--lived unknown,<LB>To test a wife intended.<LB>And ox-like Boffin, with his mate,<LB>Who made such tilts at fashion;<LB>And literary Wegg, who had<LB>For poetry such passion;<LB>And Gaffer and Rogue Riderhood,<LB>With callings so unholy;<LB>And bony Venus--Jenny Wren;<LB>The Jew so meek and lowly.<LB>And Eugene Wrayburn! bow could he<LB>E'er marry Gaffer's daughter?<LB>Such fearful price for being pulled<LB>By her from out the water;</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">And Bradley Headstone, on whose life<LB>There seemed to dawn no morning,<LB>Who shunned one woman's loving smiles<LB>To meet another's scorning.<LB>Another group, and at its head<LB>Is Pecksniff's form appearing;<LB>His speech so full of pious talk,<LB>His eye of carnal leering.<LB>Here pass along twin storied dames,<LB>Whose gait the rest embarrass;<LB>They are material Mrs. Gamp,<LB>And mythic Mrs. Harris.<LB>Young Chuzzlewit, his servant Mark-<LB>That synonym for Jolly;<LB>And poor Tom Pinch, whose dearest friend<LB>Made his love-yearnings folly.<LB>Another group which Pickwick leads<LB>With legs abbreviated,<LB>And Weller and his "widder" wife<LB>Who were so badly mated.<LB>Another crew by Dombey led,<LB>I see, has just up-anchored;<LB>And still another, led by him<LB>Who for some "more,' so hankered;<LB>And other chiefs lead other hosts,<LB>Till comes the grand finale,<LB>When Death tears Edwin Drood in two-<LB>Half left each side the Valley.<LB>What shall I say of him whose brain<LB>These passing forms created?<LB>Did he deserve the praise bestowed,<LB>Or was be overrated?</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Alas! I fear the crucial test,<LB>If placed upon him rightly,<LB>Would show him of but mortal stuff,<LB>With blemishes unsightly.<LB>We judge the writer by his words,<LB>To find at last our folly,<LB>On seeing what a wealth of thought<LB>One private life can sully.<LB>The snob and hypocrite for e'er<LB>His pen's point was impaling-<LB>Pecksniff and Podsnap, merged in him,<LB>Their doubles were assailing.<LB>Alas! whose pen could draw the tear,<LB>Wronged woman's woes portraying,<LB>Should act Don Juan while the part<LB>Of household tyrant playing;<LB>O'er novelists he lived enthroned,<LB>All rival kings unseating--<LB>To die at last of too much drink,<LB>Combined with over-eating.</HI>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The Old Saw-Mill.<LB>NO MORE the glassy pond reflects<LB>The lithesome willows' play,<LB>The walls which pent its waters up<LB>The floods have washed away.<LB>Dead are the bright green water-plants<LB>That fringed its shaded rim;<LB>The plow its arching furrows turn<LB>Where fishes used to swim.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Thick sown with briars and tangled weed,<LB>And sedge grass waving rank,<LB>The head-race winds in dim outline<LB>Along the meadow bank.<LB>Till crawling 'neath the turnpike road<LB>It nears the ruined mill,<LB>With roof-tree sunken to the leaves,<LB>With voiceless wheels and still.<LB>Its forebay sunken in the mud,<LB>Its walls but crumbling stone,<LB>Its timber mouldering to decay,<LB>Its log-yard weed-o'ergrown.<LB>Yet fancy needs but sway its wand,<LB>When full of busy life<LB>The old-time scenes start up again<LB>With ringing music rife.<LB>Again upon the brimful race<LB>The willow branches play;<LB>Again the dripping mill-wheel flings<LB>Aside the foaming spray.<LB>Again I hear the rag-wheel's grate,<LB>And hear the rattling cog,<LB>And see the rising saw-teeth send<LB>The white dust o'er the log.<LB>I see the sawyer crouching stand<LB>With keen and single eye-<LB>The other shut, that he may see<LB>If the mill-saw runs awry.<LB>With swinging axe he "sculps" anon<LB>The dirt from off the bark;<LB>He hears the saw a "hinge.hook" strike,<LB>With eyebrows frowning dark.</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Anon with watchful glance he sees,<LB>Slow moving down the road,<LB>The low log-wagon, oxen drawn,<LB>And creaking with its load.<LB>He grasps the toilsome cant-hook tight,<LB>With horny hands and brown,<LB>And with the teamsters' added help<LB>The logs come thundering down.<LB>Through toiling years he wore away<LB>His life upon that mill;<LB>When death smote one he smote them both<LB>And left them ever still.<LB>He who uprightly walked the earth,<LB>Full careless of its pelf,<LB>Now in his plain-made coffin lay-<LB>He sawed the boards himself.<LB>He sleeps in peaceful rest beneath<LB>The daisy-sprinkled sod;<LB>No more to care for summer's drought,<LB>Or spring-time's angry flood.<LB>As neighbor good, as friend oft tried,<LB>With large and kindly heart,<LB>His life, well spent, this tribute earned-<LB>"He acted well his part!"</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><LB><HI REND="blockindent">After-Thoughts.<LB>SUNS rise and set; moons wax and wane;<LB>The seasons come, the seasons go;<LB>Onward to the eternal main<LB>The everlasting rivers flow;<LB>From ocean's bosom mists arise,<LB>Arise to fall to earth in rain;<LB>The snow-flakes winnowed from the skies<LB>Like Ant&aelig;us touch to rise again.<LB>Eternal mountains prop the clouds;<LB>Eternal valleys stretch between;<LB>The one enwrapt in snowy shrouds,<LB>The other robed in endless green.<LB>I ask, why should these elements<LB>Live soulless on, while mortal man,<LB>So filled with soul and God-given sense,<LB>Meets death, when lived his little span?<LB>We know the river flowing by<LB>Will, heaven-descended, seek its source.<LB>We know the shrubbery, bare and dry,<LB>The spring will cover in its course.<LB>But do we die, though know we not,<LB>The scenes behind the curtain's fall?<LB>If to our gaze it is not brought,<LB>Is there no hope beyond the pall?<LB>If light Divine illumine not<LB>The dreaded haunts of the Beyond;<LB>Is there not proof within the thought<LB>Which in earth, sky or stream is found?</HI>
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005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">If death gives life to soulless tree-<LB>Clothes winter's icy slopes with green;<LB>Cannot our faith, from trammels free,<LB>Make our deaths turned to life be seen?<LB>And if the waters flowing by,<LB>All soulless, to the absorbing sea,<LB>Can rise wind-wafted to the sky<LB>To drop to live in flower and tree,<LB>Can we not know there is no death,<LB>That life flows on wave after wave,<LB>And all unseen the parted breath<LB>Sighs and exhalts beyond the grave?<LB>Can pulseless clods thus favored be,<LB>To grass and flowers and trees give birth,<LB>And we, who live and love, must we<LB>Die only to enrich the earth?<LB>If withered seeds can grow and reach<LB>In spreading splendor to the sky,<LB>Must we yearn on in vain beseech,<LB>Grope heavenward, fall, and vainly die?<LB>We want no voice of gibbering ghost,<LB>From gruesome graveyard taken flight,<LB>To prove in death we are not lost--<LB>The future not an endless night.<LB>Even he who doubts the Word inspired,<LB>In nature should not seek in vain,<LB>To find the proof so much desired--<LB>We only die to live again!</HI>
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005.sgm:<DIV><P>The Wind-Up.</P>
005.sgm:<P>HAVING written one conclusion within the confines of this volume, it becomes an easy task to write another. In this one I am given opportunity to say that if readers knew how tired an author grows of his book by the time he sends his last proof to the publisher, they would not deem him an object of envy.  What the writer looked upon in its preparatory stages as a labor of love, at last so wearies him that he is glad to get it out of sight. Reading the same thing over and over, as the proofs are returned for the correction of mistakes, makes him so tired of what was once a pleasure that he goes through it as mechanically as if it were (he work of some one else, and feels that his readers should be under obligations to him for getting the words in readable shape.  The worst of it is that repeated proof-readings so dull the senses that the overlooking of errors is rendered easy; so that after the types are set and the forms struck off beyond recall, the author sees staring at him errors which in bitterness of spirit he reproaches himself for not seeing in time. These are repetition of words in such close connection that they mar the harmony of composition, and other mistakes equally unpleasant.  I call attention to this, so that when the reader comes across anything bearing criticism, he will know I am aware of it also.</P>
005.sgm:<P>I may mention another source of annoyance.  This is, when too late to remedy the matter, the author sees what fine things he might have inserted to enliven certain dull pages; but now, alas! impossible, since the book is printed and the cold, cold type distributed.</P>
005.sgm:<P>Thus commenting, I start off my Book with the old saying,</P>
005.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"What's writ is writ; would it were worthier."</HI>
006.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-006</TITLE>
006.sgm:<TITLE>Gold and sunshine, reminiscences of early California.  By James J. Ayers: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
006.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
006.sgm: <RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
006.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
006.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
006.sgm: <P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
006.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
006.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>22-7631</LCCN>
006.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
006.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 659533</COPYRIGHT>
006.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P><illus entity="a006-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COL. JAMES J. AYERS</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>GOLD AND SUNSHINE</P>
006.sgm:<P>REMINISCENCES OF EARLY CALIFORNIA</P>
006.sgm:<P>COLONEL JAMES J. AYERS</P>
006.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATIONS<LB>FROM THE COLLECTION OF<LB>CHARLES B. TURRILL</P>
006.sgm:<P>BOSTON<LB>RICHARD G. BADGER<LB>THE GORHAM PRESS</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1922, BY RICHARD G. BADGER</P>
006.sgm:<P>All Rights Reserved</P>
006.sgm:<P>&copy;Cl.A659533</P>
006.sgm:<P>Made in the United States of America</P>
006.sgm:<P>The Gorham Press, Boston, U. S. A.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><HI REND="italics">Oh, happy days, when youth's wild ways<LB>Knew every phase of harmless folly!<LB>Oh, blissful nights, whose fierce delights<LB>Defied gaunt-featured Melancholy!<LB>Gone are they all beyond recall,<LB>And I--a shade, a mere reflection--<LB>Am forced to feed my spirit's greed<LB>Upon the husks of retrospection!</HI>
006.sgm:<P>--EUGENE FIELD.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>For some time past I have had in contemplation to write a book, taking as the subject my experiences in California.  A continuous residence of forty-seven years would furnish interesting material for such a book in almost any life.  But as mine was cast in channels which threw me in contact with nearly all of the conspicuous figures who have given character and celebrity to our State, and placed me in the whirl of the many events which have given historical interest to California, much of which I saw and a part of which I was, I felt that to present those men and events to the present generation in the way that they appeared to me at the time and in the order of their occurrence, would be a work from which the general reader would derive instruction, the old Californian reminiscent pleasures, and the "tenderfoot" of to-day realize how difficult and beset with obstructions was the pathway of the "tenderfoot" of the argonautic period.  I also felt that if I could convey in an attractive form a panoramic picture of my experiences in this State from the beginning, while it would not be a dry and formal history of the State, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I have carefully avoided in this book the meretricious custom, which has too largely prevailed among those who have written about pioneer times, of degrading their publications to the level of a commercial medium by praising the successful survivors of the pioneers beyond their merit and exalting the names of some who were entitled to but scant recognition.  Indeed, my general plan has been to let the living round out their career to the end unemblazoned, but to carefully rescue, as far as I could, from oblivion many who have gone over in undeserved obscurity to the majority.</P>
006.sgm:<P>I have endeavored to recommend the volume to every intelligent reader, by making it sketchy, anecdotal, humorous, picturesque, descriptive and historical.  If I have succeeded in this, I shall have accomplished the task I set for myself.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The history of California, before the influx of gold-seekers brought it prominently before the eyes of the world, may be told in a few words.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Until April, 1769, Upper California was to the white man a <HI REND="italics">terra incognita</HI>
006.sgm:.  It was known to exist, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>In April, 1769, the <HI REND="italics">San Antonio</HI>
006.sgm: sailed into the splendid harbor of San Diego.  She had been sent out from Mexico and had a few friars on board, a detachment of soldiers and a handful of colonists. Juan Crespi, an intrepid friar, marched overland until in October he reached San Francisco Bay, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>From that time down to the 7th of July, 1846, the political power of California was in the hands of the leading families of the province, and although Mexico exercised the right of sovereignty by sending out Governors to rule over her, yet the turbulence of her people resulted in a number of bloodless revolutions, pulling down unpopular Governors and exacting changes in that office from Mexico. There was a constant struggle going on between Monterey and Los Angeles to be recognized as the seat of government.  When Commodore Sloat took possession of Monterey the power of the native Californians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The discovery of gold by Marshall, on the 24th of January, 1848, opened to California a new era. One of the most wonderful migrations ever known set in from all parts of the Atlantic states when the news of the discovery slowly reached the populations east of the Mississippi.  By sea and land they flocked in untold numbers to the new El Dorado, and all parts of the civilized world sent contributions of their people to California to seek for gold.</P>
006.sgm:<P>At this point my story commences, and I hope it will prove as interesting to my readers as it has been a source of pleasurable employment to me, in my retreat among the orange groves of Azusa, to write it.</P>
006.sgm:<P>JAMES J. AYERS.<LB>Azusa, Los Angeles County, Cal., 1896.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>I.  HO!  FOR  CALIFORNIA--THE  BEGINNING  OF A VOYAGE FILLED WITH  ADVENTURE--A BLOW-UP  AT  SEA--GATHERING  OF  THE  SHARKS--  CHANGE OF ROUTE--CROSSING THE CONTINENT ON  FOOT--BUILDING  A  SHIP UNDER  DIFFICULTIES--ARRIVAL  AT  REALEJO<HSEP>11<LB>II.  A  LONG AND  TEDIOUS WAIT--OFF  FOR  CALIFORNIA AT LAST--A VOYAGE  OF  HARDSHIPS,SUFFERING,ELEMENTAL STORMS,THIRST, FAMINE  AND  OTHER  THRILLING  EVENTS<HSEP>19<LB>III.  A GLIMPSE OF SAN FRANCISCO IN '49<HSEP>29<LB>IV.  HO,  FOR  THE  MINES--FIGHTING  MOSQUITOES--STOCKTON AS IT WAS--GENEROUS CUSTOM  OF THE  MERCHANTS--A  DISAPPOINTED CROWD--<LB>FIRST EXPERIENCE IN MINING--HOW WE MISSED A  FORTUNE<HSEP>38<LB>V.  THE CHILEAN WAR IN CALAVERAS COUNTY--A THRILLING CHAPTER OF UNWRITTEN HISTORY<HSEP>46<LB>VI.  OBVIOUS   OBSERVATIONS   UPON   THE   BLOODY EPISODE<HSEP>59<LB>VII.  CAMP LIFE IN THE WINTER OF '49--CARNEGIE'S FORERUNNER--A BORN  TRADER--BEAN  PIES  AND  A HORIZONTAL  RAISE--HOW  TO  MILK A CAMP<HSEP>64<LB>VIII.  ROVING MINERS AND THEORISTS FAILURES--AN  ANDALUSIAN PROCESSION--AN EXCITING GAME OF MONTE--TAPPING THE BANK<HSEP>70<LB>IX.  INCIDENTS OF A CAMP LIFE IN THE SPRING AND  SUMMER  OF  '50--A FIERY  MILESIAN  CALLS DOWN A  PUNCTILIOUS   COLONEL--A TIMID  MAN FIGHTS TWO DESPERATE DUELS--IT REQUIRED MORE  NERVE  TO DECLINE  THAN  TO  FIGHT<HSEP>80</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>X.  THE NUCLEUS OF A GREAT CITY--TWICE DESTROYED BY FIRE WITHIN A MONTH--A GLUT OF  NEWSPAPERS--LOLA MONTEZ  AND HER PETS--HOW A JOURNALIST WOOED, WON AND LOST HER--FROM A PALACE TO A NEW YORK TENEMENT HOUSE<HSEP>90<LB>XI.  A LIVELY CHAPTER ON THE LIVELY INCIDENTS OF A LIVELY MINING TOWN--HOME-MADE THEATRICALS--WAR OF THE SIX NATIONS--THE VALUE OF A HOME GUARD--A MURDER INTERLUDE--PATHETIC DEATH-BED SCENE<HSEP>100<LB>XII.  REMARKABLE  OUTCOME  OF  A  DUEL--DUELS OUGHT TO BE FOUGHT ON EMPTY STOMACHS--CRYSTALLIZATION  OF  POLITICAL  PARTIES--  DIVIDING ON SECTIONAL LINES--BRODERICK AND GWIN THE IDOLS OF THE NORTH AND SOUTH--HOW TO GET RID OF AN OBNOXIOUS HAT<HSEP>112<LB>XIII.  A TRIP EAST--A GOOD PLACE TO "GO BROKE"--HOW AN OLD FRIEND INDUCED ME TO RETURN IN THE STEERAGE--AT THE HILL ONCE MORE--BABY YARROW AND THE OLD MINER--THE OPENING OF A GREAT MINE<HSEP>123<LB>XIV.  REMINISCENCES OF THE STAGE--VALUABLE PRESENTS  TO  ACTRESSES--HOW  THE  SPIRITS HELPED THE MANAGER OUT OF A BAD SCRAPE--EXPERIENCES IN BARN-STORMING--FIDDLETOWN MISNAMED--A DELIGHTED AUDIENCE OF ONE--SENATOR CONNESS--ON A MOUNTAIN SLEEPING WITH THE STARS<HSEP>134<LB>XV.  THE HILL GOES  UP IN SMOKE--RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO--ITS MARVELOUS GROWTH--COLLAPSE  OF  ADAMS &amp; CO.'S  BANK--ITS TREASURES DISSIPATED--FACTS THAT LED UP TO THE ORGANIZATION OF THE GREAT VIGILANCE COMMITTEE--CHIEF JUSTICE TERRY IN ITS TOILS<HSEP>147<LB>XVI.  THE GENESIS OF A MODERN DAILY NEWSPAPER--A MINT SHORTAGE LEADS TO A LIBEL SUIT--CITY LANDS GRABBED UP IN LARGE TRACTS--THE STEAM PADDY MAKES SAN FRANCISCO WHAT IT IS<HSEP>158<LB>XVII.  THE  FATAL  DUEL  BETWEEN  TERRY  AND BRODERICK<HSEP>170</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>XVIII.  NARROW ESCAPE OF CALIFORNIA FROM CIVIL WAR--GENERAL ALBERT S. JOHNSTON'S NOBLE ATTITUDE--GREENBACKS DISCREDITED--THE WAR FEVER RAGES--FIVE REGIMENTS RAISED--A MEMORABLE FISHING EPISODE--A MIRACULOUS CATCH AND A GRAND PROCESSION--TWO STRIKING DESTINIES<HSEP>179<LB>XIX.  A GROUP OF WAR GOVERNORS--THE GREAT BULKHEAD SCHEME--DOWNEY KNOCKS IT ON THE HEAD--DISCOVERY OF THE TREMENDOUSLY RICH COMSTOCK LEDGE--THE BIG FIVE OF THE CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD<HSEP>192<LB>XX.  A VISIT TO THE FRONT--INTERVIEW  WITH PRESIDENT LINCOLN--HE TELLS HOW TOM CORWIN STOPPED THE WAR--A PATHETIC STORY SHOWING LINCOLN'S  SYMPATHETIC NATURE--A VISIT TO ARLINGTON CEMETERY--THE ENDLESS PROCESSION OF THE NATION'S DEAD<HSEP>200<LB>XXI.  THE  NICARAGUA  CANAL--PROSPEROUS  SAN FRANCISCO--A TRIP TO THE  SANDWICH ISLANDS -- THRILLING ADVENTURE OF MME. ANNA BISHOP, THE DIVA--NATIVE SUPERSTITIONS--PRAYING AN ENEMY TO DEATH--A MODEL PLANTATION<HSEP>211<LB>XXII.  "MARK TWAIN" DOING THE ISLANDS--HOW HE DISCHARGED HIMSELF FROM THE "CALL"--MARK AS A JOKER--COULD GIVE BUT NOT TAKE--HIS  INTENDED  FATHER-IN-LAW MAKES  AN  AWKWARD  PROPOSITION--HE DISPOSES OF  IT  HANDSOMELY--ORIGIN  OF   THE  RECIPROCITY TREATY--A  NEWSPAPER  DRENCHED TO DEATH<HSEP>223<LB>XXIII.  BACK IN THE EDITORIAL HARNESS--THE COMSTOCK LEDGE--THE RUSH TO WHITE PINE--A DISASTROUS NEWSPAPER VENTURE ABOVE  THE CLOUDS<HSEP>234<LB>XXIV.  A VERY SPANISH TOWN--JUDGE PABLO DE LA GUERRA--A SYMPOSIUM OF BON VIVANTS--VENTURA,  YOUNGEST  OF  THE  TRAIN  OF SUNNY SISTERS<HSEP>245<LB>XXV.  A GLIMPSE OF THE LOS ANGELES OF TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO<HSEP>254</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>XXVI.  SEASIDE  RESORTS IN  THE  SEVENTIES--WHY COLONEL KEWEN DIDN'T GO TO CONGRESS--A GAY BACHELOR SURPRISE--A FINANCIAL CRISIS--COLLAPSE OF THE TEMPLE &amp; WORKMAN BANK--HOW BALDWIN COMES TO ITS RESCUE--HOW WORKMAN CUTS THE GORDIAN KNOT<HSEP>265<LB>XXVII.  A  PERIOD  OF  DEPRESSION--THE  SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY COMPANY DENOUNCED--CONCESSION OF RATES ON PLASTERER'S HAIR--AMUSING SCENE BETWEEN CHAS. CROCKER AND JUDGE BRONSON--HOW THE GOVERNMENT WAS UNGRATEFUL TO THE RAILROAD MAGNATES -- MARIE ANTOINETTE'S  S&Egrave;VRES VASE<HSEP>275<LB>XXVIII.  THE  CAPTURE  OF  TIBURCIO  VASQUEZ,  THE NOTED BANDIT AND MURDERER--A CLEVER AND SUCCESSFUL RUSE<HSEP>284<LB>XXIX.  A GROUP OF NOTED LOS ANGELANS AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS<HSEP>290<LB>XXX.  THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA IN A RESTLESS AND DISSATISFIED MOOD--CALLING OF A CONSTITUTIONAL CONVENTION--FORMATION AND ADOPTION OF A NEW CONSTITUTION--A DISTINGUISHED GROUP OF THE FRAMERS OF THE NEW INSTRUMENT -- SACRAMENTO AS IT IS AND AS IT WAS<HSEP>305<LB>XXXI.  THE FIRST EXPERIMENT IN BEET SUGAR IN LOS  ANGELES COUNTY--AN  UNSUCCESSFUL CONGRESSIONAL CAMPAIGN--CONSOLATIONS IN ORDER--BILL  REYNOLDS TO THE  FRONT--THE  DAWNING  OF  BETTER TIMES--THE SANTA F&Eacute; SYSTEM TO SOLVE THE RAILROAD PROBLEM--ITS COMING ASSURED<HSEP>318<LB>XXXII.  GENERAL STONEMAN ELECTED GOVERNOR--THE AUTHOR BECOMES STATE PRINTER--INAUGURATION OF THE PRINTING OF SCHOOL TEXTBOOKS BY THE STATE--THE ABUSES OF THE SCHOOL-BOOK RING THAT LED UP TO IT--SKETCH OF THE CAREER OF GOVERNOR STONEMAN--HIS SAD DEATH<HSEP>329<LB>XXXIII.  CONCLUSION--A CONTRAST BETWEEN TWO REMARKABLE PERIODS -- THE  CONQUISTADORS AND THE ARGONAUTS<HSEP>335</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>Col. James J. Ayers<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
006.sgm:<LB><HSEP>FACING PAGE<LB>San Francisco in 1849<HSEP>24<LB>A Rare Old Cut of a "River Mining" Scene in 1849.  The Mokelumne River<HSEP>42<LB>Copy of a Daguerreotype of Sutter's Mill at Coloma in 1851<HSEP>70<LB>San Francisco Hall, 1856<HSEP>90<LB>Rare Old Cut of Placerville (Hangtown) in the 50's<HSEP>96<LB>Mokelumne Hill in 1860<HSEP>102<LB>Fashionable Stockton Street Looking Toward North Beach in 1856<HSEP>148<LB>Headquarters of the Vigilance Committee of 1856, Showing "Fort Gunnybags" in Front<HSEP>154<LB>Coloma, California, about 1856<HSEP>168<LB>Montgomery Street Looking North from California<HSEP>189<LB>Court House, Los Angeles<HSEP>256<LB>The Nadeau Block, Los Angeles<HSEP>264<LB>The Old Mill<HSEP>300<LB>An Extremely Rare Cut of Sacramento in 1849<HSEP>314<LB>The Pico House, Los Angeles, in the Early 80's<HSEP>320</P>
006.sgm:</FRONT><BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<HEAD>GOLD AND SUNSHINE<LB>CHAPTER I</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>HO!  FOR CALIFORNIA--THE BEGINNING OF A VOYAGE FILLED  WITH  ADVENTURE--A BLOW-UP  AT  SEA--GATHERING  OF   THE   SHARKS --CHANGE  OF ROUTE--CROSSING  THE  CONTINENT  ON  FOOT--BUILDING A SHIP UNDER DIFFICULTIES--ARRIVAL AT  REALEJO</P>
006.sgm:<P>I started from St. Louis for California on the second of February, 1849. My design was to go to New Orleans, and from there reach the Isthmus of Panama, where I believed I could readily make the rest of my way to San Francisco.  I took passage from New Orleans on the old steamer <HI REND="italics">Galveston</HI>
006.sgm:, bound for Chagres.  Everything went well with us until the seventh day out, when we were suddenly startled by an explosion.  The confusion that followed among the seven or eight hundred passengers was great, but we were soon assured that there was no immediate danger, as it was only the cap of the steam chest that had blown out.  The machinery <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>A remarkable incident of this mishap in the Carribean Sea was that as soon as the steamer had ceased to make headway, thousands of hideous sharks came up from the depths and surrounded the vessel. They were so numerous that they crowded over each other in their efforts to get near the ship. These voracious monsters seemed to instinctively know that an accident had occurred and feel that a great feast of human flesh was in store for them. But happily for us, they were disappointed, and the boys took their revenge out of them for their presumption by firing bullets at them from their rifles and pistols. They were so thick that many of them were hit as they rolled over each other and exposed themselves out of the water.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Sails, such as they were, were set, and we slowly drifted along, reaching Balize in ten days.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Balize was a quaint-looking tropical town, principally inhabited by negroes and domesticated Yucatan Indians.  Considerable commerce was carried on there in exporting mahogany and dye wood brought from the interior of Yucatan and Honduras.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Several vessels in port were chartered and nearly all of the <HI REND="italics">Galveston's</HI>
006.sgm:<P>After the usual haggling with the muleteers, we chartered a train to carry our provisions and effects to Puerto la Union, on the Pacific Coast.  Some of our party hired or bought saddle horses, but most of us resolved, out of deference to the state of our finances, or for other reasons, to keep up with the procession on foot. If my memory serves me, it took us seventeen days to cross the Cordilleras and reach the point on the Pacific for which we started.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>A custom prevailed in this city which has not its parallel in any country I ever visited. In exchange for a silver dollar, any merchant would give you twelve dollars in quicksilvered copper coins of the various denominations, and these would be received for ordinary purchases the same as if they were silver. In this way one could get twelve dollars' worth of common supplies for one dollar in silver.  Indeed, the copper coin was preferred by the market hucksters to the silver, and if one laid down two quarters, one being copper, in payment for a two-bit article purchased, the vender would generally select the quicksilvered quarter in preference to the genuine coin.  One naturally wonders how this peculiar <HI REND="italics">coup de finesse</HI>
006.sgm:, or rather finance, came about. We were told that the Indians washed out a great deal of placer gold in the river Layape (I think that was the name) and the gulches tributary to it, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Upon reaching Puerto la Union, on the Gulf of Fonseca, in San Salvador, we found a barkentine there that had come down from San Francisco. Her crew verified the story of the wonderful gold discoveries in California, and showed us specimens that fully satisfied us of the truth of the glowing accounts that had reached us at home from the new El Dorado. It is only mild to say that anxiety to reach our golden Mecca was intensified by the accounts now given ins of the extent and richness of the new gold fields by men who had actually mined in them themselves; and the desire to reach our destination in the shortest possible time became a ruling passion.</P>
006.sgm:<P>We endeavored to make some arrangement with the captain of the barkentine to take us up with him. His vessel was well capable of accommodating us, and we could easily have provisioned her for the voyage in La Union; but whether he was engaged in some clandestine traffic which he wished to veil from outsiders, or was naturally selfish and misanthropic, preferring his own ease and comfort to performing an act not only of courtesy but humanity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Word was brought to La Union that a Scotch bark, the <HI REND="italics">Caledonia</HI>
006.sgm:, was at Realejo and would sail the next day for San Francisco. Two of our party at once chartered a canoe and put to sea to intercept the bark.  They reached her and were taken on board, arriving in California several months before the rest of us.  Captain Hammond, of our party, proposed to build a small vessel, and thus solve the problem of transportation.  He learned that there were thousands of people at Panama waiting for vessels to take them to California. All the old hulks on the Coast were steering for that port, and were chartered at fabulous prices and turned into passenger ships when they arrived there.  The prospect that any available vessel would make its appearance at Puerto Ia Union was very slight. The outlook was indeed discouraging, and Captain Hammond's proposition was eagerly embraced by most of our party.  I could not make myself feel that it was practical to successfully build a vessel in a port where there was no material to be had for the construction of a hull, no iron for fastenings, no rope for the necessary tackle and no canvass of which to make sails.  But I will here say that the energy and genius of those who understood this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:arduous task overcame all obstacles, and that my first trip to Stockton on my way to the mines was made on board the <HI REND="italics">Jos&eacute; Castro</HI>
006.sgm:, named in honor of the Commandante of Puerto la Union, who took so deep an interest in the building of the little ship at his port that he sent native runners all over the country to gather up everything that could be procured to help along the interesting work.<HSEP>Several of us thought that the best thing we could do would be to go over to Nicaragua, and wait for 8 vessel at Realejo, at that time one of the most frequented ports in Central America. The town of Realejo has since been supplanted by Corinto, built up in the magnificent harbor of Realejo, which at that time accommodated the ships trading with Nicaragua on the Pacific.  Old Realejo is situated some nine miles inland from the harbor, and at the head of navigation of a narrow and crooked river, completely shut in with tangled trees, their branches interlacing overhead.  In pursuance of our plan, we sailed across the Gulf of Fonseca in a bungo, and, entering a narrow and tortuous waterway, paddled to its head, where we disembarked at a landing called Tampisqui.  Here we had an adventure with monkeys which threatened serious consequences.  An army of these creatures were marching, as is their custom, from tree to tree, swinging themselves from branch to branch by their long prehensile tails, and making wonderful progress.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>On reaching Chinandego, a considerable city, well laid out, with extensive buildings and having an imposing cathedral, we learned that the <HI REND="italics">Caledonia</HI>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A LONG AND TEDIOUS WAIT--OFF FOR CALIFORNIA AT LAST--A  VOYAGE  OF  HARDSHIPS,  SUFFERING, ELEMENTAL STORMS, THIRST, FAMINE AND OTHER THRILLING INCIDENTS</P>
006.sgm:<P>How slowly the time dragged along in that old, sleepy town of Realejo! It was about the 20th of March when I arrived there.  I had been over a month and a half on the road, and had come to a dead standstill at a point where I might have to wait for months before I could get a chance to continue my voyage. There was nothing for it, however, but to resign myself to the situation and to wait patiently until some vessel bound for San Francisco should call in for water and supplies; and then she would, in all probability, be so crowded as to make it impossible for me to secure passage.  I soon experienced a sample of this kind of disappointment. A little old brigantine, the <HI REND="italics">Feliz</HI>
006.sgm:, put into the harbor from Panama, and was so densely crowded with passengers that there was absolutely no room in her for any more.  She reported that Panama was literally jammed with people, and that anything in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>In proof of this several small boats put into Realejo for water.  One of these was an iron boat, about fifteen feet long, that had been carried across the isthmus.  She was rigged with a mast and sails, and a party of six were thus, by short stages, making for San Francisco. When I arrived in that city some months afterward, I learned of the sad fate of this party.  They coasted successfully as far as Mazatlan, where they agreed with the captain of a French bark bound for California to give him their boat if he would take them aboard as passengers. That night there arose a great storm and the vessel was driven upon a reef, and all on board perished. This calamity seemed like the very irony of fate. The unfortunate voyagers had safely sailed in their frail shallop more than half way to their port of destination, and they had no sooner set their feet on a comfortable and seaworthy vessel than they went down to their death.</P>
006.sgm:<P>So eager were the crowds of Americans who had reached the Pacific coast of Central America to get to California that they hesitated at no risks to accomplish their object, and they would gladly put to sea to make a voyage of three thousand miles in a boat which, under normal circumstances, they would consider unsafe to cross a lake in.  An open <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>After we had been in Realejo about two months rumors reached us that a large party of Americans en route to California had arrived at the city of Nicaragua, and to our great delight one morning a number of them rode into town.  They proved to be the advance guard of the George Gordon association, consisting of some hundred and twenty members who had started from Philadelphia for California by way of the Nicaragua route.  They told wonderful tales of the hardships they had en- countered on the San Juan river, which they navigated in small boats they had brought with them. George Gordon had organized two associations in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Of course we were very glad to greet our fellowcountrymen, and now felt that our chances for reaching San Francisco were greatly enhanced. Gordon had dispatched an agent to Panama to charter vessels if they could be had, and word was sent to the ports of South America to ship-owners and skippers that ships were wanted at Realejo.  At length we were made happy by the arrival of the old brig <HI REND="italics">Laura Anne</HI>
006.sgm:, which Gordon lost no time in chartering.  The <HI REND="italics">Laura Anne</HI>
006.sgm:<P>It was about the 20th of July when we sailed. The brig was overcrowded. Every vacant space in her was occupied. Tiers of bunks had been put up in the hold, and her cramped cabin could only afford accommodation for the captain, his mate and a poor fellow who was enduring great agony from a wound <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:inflicted by a stingaree, and from which he died as soon as we reached San Francisco.  Here we were, about one hundred passengers on a hundred and twenty ton vessel, packed as close together almost as sardines in a box.  Everything went along well enough until we reached the Gulf of Tehuantepec.  Here we encountered most tempestuous weather for several days. We were almost constantly in sight of great waterspouts which threatened to overwhelm us, and it required the utmost skill and constant watchfulness of the man at the wheel to steer us clear of them.  When the weather moderated, we found to our consternation that the rolling of the brig during the storm had caused nearly all of our water tanks to burst, and we were at once placed on short allowance. Our progress was excruciatingly slow. When we were not beset with head winds, we were lying motionless in dead calms under a tropical sun. The heat was intense, and our sufferings were aggravated by the compulsory reduction of our already meagre water allowance.  The brig had been provisioned for forty days, and we were now confronted with the alarming prospect that our voyage might last for twice forty, perhaps more. This was the signal for placing us on short allowance of food, and further reductions were made in quick succession until we were brought down to a pint of water, some rice and a biscuit a day for each man.  Our store of supplies had been greatly lessened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>We put to sea, and made several long tacks so a to work our way up the coast against the northwest trade winds.  To our great mortification we would usually return from these long tacks and see abreast of us a big flat mountain which we had left as conspicuous landmark a few days before.  We ha made some progress, but very little.</P>
006.sgm:<P>At length, on nearing the coast, after one a these long and ineffectual tacks, we found that nearly all our water was gone, and thought that it would be madness to make another great stretch seaward with the possibility of encountering a storm or dead calm that would prevent our return to the coast, and all perish from thirst and starvation.  The captain called a general conference of the passengers, and we determined to put into an open roadstead designated on our old Spanish charts as the <illus entity="a006-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO IN 1849  Copy of rare old print</P>
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006.sgm:<P>Our small boat was lowered and sent ashore. While it was gone some of us rigged out fish-lines baited with white rags, and to our delight and astonishment hauled in fine large mackerel as fast as we threw our tackle out.  In a very short time the deck was covered with these sleek burghers of the deep, and a great number of them were cleaned, salted and packed away for future use.  It goes without saying that we soon had the cook busy frying a large mess of the fresh captives, and for the first time in many days were gratified with something like L satisfying. and civilized meal.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Heretofore our misfortune had come not in single spies, but in battalions.  The tide had turned and in verification of the adage, "that it never rains ill or good luck but it pours," our boat returned and reported that a fine lake of fresh water had been found near the shore, and a demijohn of the blessed fluid was passed up to us.  The boat returned to the beach at once loaded down to the gunnels with thirsty passengers.  Sure enough, there it was--a small lake of fine fresh water.  I shall never forget the eagerness with which we lined the rim of that lake, lay prone upon its bank and sucked in the delicious and refreshing element. It seemed as if one could actually see the lake lowering as our boys <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>But our good luck did not end here.  On visiting the brigantine at anchor in the bay, we found that she was laden with a cargo of assorted provisions and groceries from Chile.  The owner of the cargo was on board, and sold us a liberal supply of Sour, sugar, coffee and preserved meats; and two or three days afterwards our supercargo came to the beach from the Mission of San Rosario with several fine beeves. What a change in a few short hours! But yesterday, so to speak, we were without water, without food, without hope--death stared us in the face, when, lo, presto, now all is different, and we are placed in possession of a great abundance of everything requisite in our situation to make life pleasant and worth living. And I shame to say it. The argonauts of '49 were a different breed of argonauts from their predecessors, the Spanish conquistadors, who would have seen in a miraculous deliverance like ours the intervention of Divine Providence, and fallen on their knees to render up fervent thanks to that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>We were soon ready to continue our voyage, and in due course of time we reached the Heads outside the Bay of San Francisco. Our skipper, who was an old Pacific-coaster, was as familiar with the harbor as any pilot of today, and steered our brig with confidence through the Golden Gate.  As we were abreast of Lime Point my attention was called to a small craft that was beating her way into the harbor. With the aid of a telescope I discovered that she was the little vessel our party had started to build at Puerto la Union, for I recognized on her deck Captain Hammond and others of the determined spirits who had solved the problem of reaching California by building a ship themselves.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The harbor of San Francisco presented a picture of nautical life and energy which is vividly impressed on my memory.  Beyond Clark's Point could be descried a great forest of masts, and from the Heads a crowd of vessels of all classes were working their way in. Their decks were black with human beings, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>"The <HI REND="italics">Richmond</HI>
006.sgm:<P>"How long are you out?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"One hundred and twenty days, and all well." Then, as we came closer together, we could exchange conversation by word of mouth. The first question put to us was whether the gold stories were true. We told them they were, and that half had not been told.  Then there went up a great cheer from the four hundred throats of the men who crowded her decks.  She passed along towards Alcatraz island, and other vessels came up alongside of us, all alive with adventurers.</P>
006.sgm:<P>On rounding Black Point the harbor opened upon us in all its glory. Hundreds of ships from all Parts of the world were lying at anchor.  The flags of all nations fluttered from their masts.  Lighters loaded with merchandise were making their way to the shore, and all sorts of craft, from the Chinese junk to the American man-of-war, were within view. Our skipper brought the brig to anchor off North Beach, and I went ashore in the first boat.</P>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A GLIMPSE OF SAN FRANCISCO IN '49</P>
006.sgm:<P>We landed at a point somewhere near where Powell street strikes the hay, and started over the north decline of Telegraph hill towards the city.  We passed more than one sportsman with gun hunting small game on the hill before we emerged at the Briones ranch, now Filbert and Powell streets, where we saw some native Californians, in an adobe shed weaving riatas. When we reached the heart of the town, it presented a scene of wild and picturesque activity. The centre of attraction was Portsmouth Square, fronted on Washington, Kearney and part of Clay streets by great canvas houses principally devoted to gambling.  The Parker House was the only building constructed of wood and of architectural regularity.  On the southwest corner of Kearney and Clay streets was a large adobe that had been turned into a hotel.  Gambling seemed to be the principal business in this part of the town. Tables, covered with stacks of Mexican dollars and doubloons, forming a coin rampart around a lacquered box into which the gold dust of the losers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>The streets, or rather roadways, were alive with all sorts of people.  The canvas stores were filled with goods and crowded with purchasers.  Everybody seemed in a rush, and those who had not just returned from the mines were getting ready to go to them. The business centre was for a few blocks on Washington and Montgomery streets, to which latter street the bay came, and formed a hail moon from Clark's Point to Rincon Hill. Tents of all sizes and all shapes were planted everywhere, and the population was composed of all races. The best restaurants--at least that was my experience--were kept by Chinese, and the poorest and dearest by AmerIcans.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The day of my arrival was the 5th of October, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>When one looks back and recalls the topographical features of San Francisco at that time, he is amazed at its selection as a site for a great city. It had, indeed, nothing to recommend it for that purpose except its magnificent harbor.  There was absolutely no level ground beyond the narrow rim that formed the crescent beach against which the tides rose and fell. Where it was not shut in by almost precipitous and rugged acclivities it was obstructed by formidable sand hills.  There was here and there a little sheltered valley, but immense sand dunes covered what is now the fairest part of the city.  At the intersection of Bush and Kearney streets was a sand hill that rose to a height of forty or fifty feet. There was another on the block where the Lick House now stands.  On Market street near Third, and reaching half way to Fourth, was another great sand mountain.  The southwest corner of Geary and Stockton streets was crowned with a great sand hill, one side of which reached to Market and Fourth.  Saint Anne's valley, beginning at Dupont street (now Grant Avenue), was buttressed by a chain of these hills leading to Leavenworth street and beyond on the north side, flanked on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Whilst I was standing at this point musing upon my situation and wondering what part I should take in the activities now opening before me, I heard my named called out, and was warmly greeted by a couple of sailors I had befriended in Realejo. They had shipped on the <HI REND="italics">Feliz</HI>
006.sgm: and been several months in San Francisco.  I asked them what they were doing, and they told me they were working for Captain Noyes, who had taken the contract to float the old whaling bark <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
006.sgm:<P>"There she is," said one of my new-found friends, "at the end of this foot-bridge.  We are going on board, and you had better come with us."</P>
006.sgm:<P>I accepted the invitation.  A temporary foot-bridge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:had been laid from Montgomery street to the vessel, and passing over it, we climbed on board the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
006.sgm:.  The hulk was snugly in place, at the northeast corner of Clay and Sansome streets. My friends told me all about how they had floated the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
006.sgm: over the shallow flat. They lashed the empty oil casks, with which she was abundantly supplied, to her bottom, and thus floated her by slow stages when the tide was high into the berth she was destined to occupy.  The "boys" told me their job was finished, and that they intended to go to the mines. We agreed to form a company and go together.  That day I ran across Captain Hammond, and he said he had bought the interests of the others in the <HI REND="italics">Jos&eacute; Castro</HI>
006.sgm: and would take a load of passengers in her to Stockton in a few days. Our company agreed to take passage in her, and at once entered upon the task of purchasing the necessary outfit. Our "Sailor boys" made a strong capacious tent out of some of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic's</HI>
006.sgm:<P>Whilst waiting for the <HI REND="italics">Jos&eacute; Castro</HI>
006.sgm: to sail, I had ample time to inspect the new city. Vessels crowded with passengers were constantly arriving, and it was interesting to see the numbers of mutual recognitions of old acquaintances, who had last met in some Eastern city.  I ran across many New York friends whom I knew before I left that city for St.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>"Why," said I, "Charley, I never knew that you were a professional in this line."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"No, I never was.  But you know I always was fond of music and considerable of a musician.  On arriving here a few of us organized a troupe and accepted an engagement to play in this saloon for an ounce a day each.  I found it paid, and here we are.  I landed here dead broke, and now I am several hundred dollars ahead."</P>
006.sgm:<P>In the course of my walks around town I found men digging cellars or leveling lots at the rate of ten dollars a day who had enjoyed fine positions at home. There were professors of Harvard, men who had distinguished themselves at the bar, and noted politicians, all doing days' work of the hardest kind to earn a stake to take them to the mines. One old philosopher, who had never swung a pick before, told me that the work was hardening him so that when he reached the diggings he would be as good a miner as anybody.</P>
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006.sgm:<P>"Besides, you see, in this way I will earn enough to get me a good outfit."</P>
006.sgm:<P>The custom house at that time was located in an old adobe in Portsmouth square, and the only court house was another adobe in the same square.  The justice presiding was the famous Ned McGowan, and although his jurisdiction extended only over misdemeanors and contentions about limited money matters, he sat upon any and all cases that were brought before him.  He was strong in admiralty litigation, and thought nothing of entertaining proceedings of libel against a ship and ordering her sale under the judgment of a mere court of primary jurisdiction.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The dressiest people in San Francisco at that time were the gamblers. Indeed they were the capitalist bankers of the town. Their saloons were all provided with large caf&eacute;s, and when a merchant required an immediate accommodation, the boss gamblers were the men applied to.  Ready money flowed in upon them in great quantities, and through them the wheels of commerce were liberally greased.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The hurry and skurry in the streets was a source of never-ending interest.  But few persons wore coats, and the general costume consisted of a heavy woolen shirt, trousers held up by a sash or belt around the waist, and the legs inserted in a pair of high-legged boots.  A slouch hat covered the head, and the handle of a pistol or a knife generally protruded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:from the sash or belt.  If occasionally an individual who had been lucky enough to arrive with a complete wardrobe appeared with a white shirt and a silk hat, he soon found that he had made a mistake, and with battered "stovepipe" hurried off to his tent to don a less esthetic costume.  Ladies were almost an unknown quantity in that heterogeneous population.  Now and then one would meet a Mexican or a South American woman, dressed from head to foot in loud colors with face "painted an inch thick." Her outfit and tournure both proclaimed her calling.  Native Californians rode into town on fine, high-spirited horses, some of them superbly equipped with costly saddles and silvermounted headstalls and bridles.  The riders presented a picturesque appearance with their embroidered jackets, broad-brimmed and high-crowned sombreros, calconeros slashed down the legs and a line of gold buttons placed close together the whole length. Some of them wore leggings and carried dangerous-looking knives stuck into the place below the knee where the leggings were fastened. When they dismounted the jingle of their enormous spurs sounded like the rattling of chains.  These gentry came in from the ranches with plenty of money to sport with, for at that time cattle were selling at the mines for five ounces a head.  The gambling tables formed an irresistible attraction to them, and many a gay don came in from his ranch with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>At night the gambling saloons were a blaze of light and filled with a dense mass of people.  They were the centre of attraction for all classes, and miners, merchants, lawyers, laborers, rancheros and mariners mingled together at these places on a common plane.  The tables were going full blast, and occasionally a misunderstanding would arise between a dealer and a bettor.  A few loud words would be followed by a pistol shot.  The saloon would be cleared in a minute, and the only sign of life visible in that vast hall would be the shooter coolly placing his smoking pistol in its holster and a couple of attendants bearing away the dead body of his victim. Yet these episodes were not of such frequent occurrence as one would suppose. The fact is that, as everybody carried arms, men were slow to quarrel because they realized that it would end with a duel to the death. The effect was to keep men cool, and the desperadoes seldom went out of their own class to seek a fight, as the public temper was such that if they did they might expect a short shrift and a quick rope.</P>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>HO, FOR THE MINES--FIGHTING MOSQUITOES--STOCKTON  AS  IT  WAS--GENEROUS  CUSTOM  OF  THE MERCHANTS--A DISAPPOINTED CROWD--FIRST EXPERIENCE   IN   MINING--HOW   WE   MISSED   A FORTUNE</P>
006.sgm:<P>We had spent three or four days in getting our supplies together and stowing them away in the hold of the <HI REND="italics">Jos&eacute; Castro</HI>
006.sgm:<P>Our voyage to Stockton was a trying one.  In crossing Suisun bay we had a stiff breeze which sent us along quite swiftly. Suisun bay is deceptive to one who is not familiar with its channels, and Captain Hammond was ignorant of the fact that it was quite shallow excepting in those channels that have been cut through it by the strong currents of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers.  We suddenly ran aground and upset in three feet of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>We found Stockton quite a busy place.  It was the commercial entrep&ocirc;t for all the southern mines, reaching from the Mariposa to the Mokelumne rivers.  Like San Francisco, it was a canvas town, but had not like that city the relief here and there of a red-tiled adobe building.  After considerable trouble we chartered an ox-team and large wagon to take us and our belongings to the mines.</P>
006.sgm:<P>We required more supplies than we had bought in San Francisco to carry us through the winter. We therefore drove to the store of Douglass &amp; Thorne, which we were told had the largest assortment of any place in town.  We selected a bill of goods and as we were about to drive away Mr. Thorne came out and took a careful look at the stuff we had in our wagon.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Why," said he, "you haven't got half enough supplies there to carry you through the winter."</P>
006.sgm:<P>We admitted the truth of his observation, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>"You boys just fill up your wagon. Take what you want, and as soon as you are able to send me the money do so."</P>
006.sgm:<P>We were perfect strangers to him, and you may well imagine that the hearty and off-hand manner in which he offered us unlimited credit was as surprising as it was agreeable. We filled the wagon with such supplies as we thought we should need, and on casting up accounts we found that we had incurred an indebtedness to his house of several hundred dollars. I had no doubt from the way he had dealt with us that it was a business custom, and I venture to say that the percentage of loss made in this way was far less than is incurred now by merchants who do a credit business with customers they know all about. A credit of that kind became a debt of honor, and unless the parties who assumed it were absolute rogues, it would be scrupulously paid. David F. Douglass, who was the senior partner of the concern, spent most of his time at the Douglass &amp; Rainer ranch, some twenty miles from Stockton on the road to Mokelumne Hill. He red resented San Joaquin district in the State Senate in 1850-51; in the Assembly in 1855, and was Secretary of State in 1856-57. He died in 1872. He was a man of the strictest integrity, and when he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>When we reached a place called Double Spring we were within three miles of Calaveras river where a great number of miners were working with more or less success.  We were undecided whether we should make our d&eacute;but as miners on the banks of that river or proceed to Mokelumne Hill where the diggings were deep and the gold coarse. That evening there came to the Springs a large party of discouraged miners from the hill.  They were making their way to Stockton, and begged us not to go to the Hill, for, they said, the mines there had been worked out, and the suffering would be great among those who would be compelled to pass the winter there. Their gloomy report had its effect, and we determined to cast our lot with the men mining on the banks of the Calaveras river.</P>
006.sgm:<P>I will pause here to make a few reflections upon the fact that human nature is so variously constituted that there are always some men who, in the midst of the most favorable opportunities, are controlled by a spirit of pessimism which makes them look at everything in the darkest light. This party from Mokelumne Hill were doubtless of that class. Millions of dollars were taken out of the deep diggings of the Hill and its tributary gulches that winter. Indeed, no other camp in the whole state was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>As we approached Calaveras river, and saw its banks here and there alive with men delving for gold, we were seized with a feeling something akin to that which must have animated the wanderers of old when they looked upon the land of promise from the heights of Pisgah. We could see the stream winding like a silver ribbon far beneath us, and we had before <illus entity="a006-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A RARE OLD CUT OF A "RIVER MINING" SCENE IN 1849.  THE MOKELUMNE RIVER  Much sickness and many deaths resulted from thus working in the cold rivers with the upper portions of the body exposed to the intense heat of the summer sun</P>
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006.sgm:<P>Our first experience in mining was not as encouraging as we had anticipated.  The paying claims were on the bars, and as far as we could learn, they had all been located. However, we took the best we could find and worked the best we knew how. All mining at that time was done in the simplest way. A rocker, consisting of three smooth boards, four or five feet long, nailed closely together at the lower edges, with a square hopper at the upper end, into which a screen, made of sheet iron with holes in it, fitted. The frame was set upon rockers, such as are used for babies' cradles.  The rocker was provided with two or three riffles to catch the gold as it was separated from the dirt by the action of the water which the operator poured constantly from a dipper upon the auriferous earth placed in the screen.  One man was engaged in stripping the top dirt from the claim, whilst another filled a bucket with the gold-carrying material found near the bed rock, and carried it to the rocker which was kept in constant motion. After running through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>To show the elude ideas which then obtained about mining I will mention one notable circumstance.  In prospecting for winter diggings we opened a claim in a gulch some four or five miles from our camp.  It paid moderately well until we came to a stratum of blue clay. We reasoned that the gold could not sink below this formation, and that there would be no more use in working below it than there would be to go deeper than the bed rock in a river claim.  Therefore we only washed the earth above the blue clay, but as the pay was not inviting we soon abandoned the place, and located our camp near the Iowa Cabins, in a locality where there were a number of unworked gulches. The value <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>We moved into our new camp just before the rains set in.  There were other camps within easy distance of us, so that we formed altogether a populous neighborhood. The gulches in our vicinity were numerous and some of them paid well.</P>
006.sgm:<P>My narrative now brings me to one of the most tragical episodes that ever occurred in the mines, and as it has so far escaped a place in written California history, I will give a faithful account of the lamentable event.</P>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>THE CHILEAN WAR IN CALAVERAS COUNTY--A THRILLING CHAPTER OF UNWRITTEN HISTORY</P>
006.sgm:<P>Situated on an elevated flat, about  two miles from our camp, was a settlement of Chilean miners. One Dr. Concha was the chief and moving spirit in this settlement, supported by some eight or ten lieutenants.  The rest of the people consisted of peons whom they had brought from Chile, and who stood in relation to the headmen as dependents, in fact as slaves.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Small parties of Americans complained that whenever they discovered a new gulch and attempted to mine in it, they were driven off by a superior body of these Chileans who laid claim to the gulch.  At last the action of the Chileans became unendurable, and unless steps were taken to counteract their pretensions they might result in actual hostility and bloodshed.  A mass meeting was called of the miners of the district.  This meeting decided to adopt a code of laws, under which the size, location and possession of claims would be regularly determined. In other mining districts where Americans from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>It was not long after this meeting had been held when some of our miners were driven by force, and under peculiarly aggravating circumstances, out of a gulch they had been working in.  When news of this exasperating aggression reached the various camps in the district, the excitement was intense. We had, as was usual at that time in the mines, elected an alcalde, before whom all classes of disputes were settled, and whose decisions were invariably acquiesced in and enforced. Judge Collier, of Virginia, a venerable gentleman of distinguished presence, of large intelligence and of positive character backed by unflinching nerve, had been selected. Complaint was made before him of this last aggression, and he advised that a mass meeting of the miners of the district should be called.  This meeting came together in a temper of great exasperation against the Chileans, and adopted a resolution to rid the district of these unpleasant neighbors by fixing a time at which they should leave, and if they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The Chilean imbroglio had almost passed out of our mind, when, one evening about eight o'clock, our attention was attracted by a sound as of marching men.  Suddenly our tent flaps were thrown aside and a dozen guns were pointed at us. We were ordered to come outside, and each one as he reached the door was seized and his arms bound together behind with cords.  Four of us were fastened to a tree, and a strong guard placed over us.  There was such flourishing of pistols and knives that I feared some of us would be killed by accident if not design, if these fellows were not compelled to keep quiet  I spoke to the man in command in Spanish, and told him there was no need of these tumultuous demonstrations; we were their prisoners, and would not attempt to escape. My speech had the desired effect, and I found my captor rather communicative. The rest of the band, in the meantime, had seized and bound the Americans in the Iowa Cabins and in several tents near by.  Shortly afterwards a messenger told my captor to come to the camp on the hill, and bring me with him, as I might be wanted as an interpreter.  This camp was located on a hill about half a mile from ours.  On arriving at the foot of the hill we were instructed to wait for further <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>On reaching it I found an old man named Endicott in the last agony from gunshot wounds, and near him was another old man named Start who had been severely wounded in the right arm and shoulder. These were the only white men they found in the camp; for the others had gone off on a visit to other camps. The leader of the Chileans was called "Tirante," and he was not misnamed.  He seemed to gloat over the body of poor Endicott, and calling me to him, asked me if that was not Judge Collier.  When I assured him it was not he seemed greatly disappointed.  Judge Collier was looked upon by the Chileans as the instigator and inciter of the American miners against them, and they wanted to wreak vengeance upon him above all others.  A short consultation ensued between Tirante and his chief men as to the next move they should make. They feared that information about their movements might reach the camp where Judge Collier lived. As it was a considerable camp, it was probable, if the alarm were given that an armed force would soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>As we marched along I was enabled to see that the Chileans numbered about sixty, whilst we were thirteen captives.  They were very careful to see that our arms were securely bound behind us. They marched us to the south fork of the Calaveras, near a trading store kept by Scollan, Alburger &amp; Co. John Scollan was a regularly appointed alcalde. He had come to California with Stevenson's regiment and the firm had stores at various points in the southern mines.  Several of the Chilean leaders <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Tirante and the rest came back to where they had left us, and in a manifestly dissatisfied mood countermarched us until we struck the trail up Chile Gulch in the direction of their own camp, which we reached about daylight.  Here was another long wait.  When the leaders returned from their camp some of them were mounted.</P>
006.sgm:<P>We pushed forward until we struck the main road to Stockton. When we got to Frank Lemons' tent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The warning was timely, but unfortunately was not heeded, for soon afterwards, as we passed Douglass &amp; Rainer's ranch, we could see Rainer and several others loading their guns in full sight of our wary captors, who lost no time in taking us away from the main road, and marching us across the plains, which were densely covered with wild oats and tar weed. We could see, by the movements of the Chileans and the earnest whisperings of their chiefs, that they were not at all at their ease. They acted like men who felt that they might at any moment be confronted with most serious difficulties.  I also noticed that they had diminished in numbers considerably. Some of the peons had dropped out from sheer exhaustion; others had furtively deserted. Whenever we would come within sight of the main road, there were signs of a commotion. Either a horseman, fully equipped with arms, would ride <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>It was late in the afternoon; the rain had been coming down in intermittent showers; Tirante and his lieutenants had had earnest and animated interviews as they grouped together on the march; we had come to a spot near tile Mokelumne river where a grove of large, wide-spreading oaks afforded shelter from the weather, and here we were halted and lined up against a fallen tree.  We had not been long here before a couple of mounted Chileans, who had been sent out as scouts, rode up.  I was near enough to catch scattered words of their report, which was to the effect that there was an aimed party on the road in quest of us. A most intensely dramatic scene followed their report. Tirante proposed that the prisoners be dispatched, after which they would disperse.  He was supported in this terrible proposition by several voices; but a large, fine-looking Chilean called Maturano, who on several occasions had protested against the violent methods of Tirante, opposed the proposition not only as cruel and inhuman, but as one that would surely bring upon them the vengeance of the whole American people. The question was debated between the chiefs for some time, when it was put to vote, and Tirante's blood-thirsty proposal was lost.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The reader can well imagine that I felt greatly relieved at the result, and I made up my mind that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I was impressed with the fact that the numbers of the Chileans had decreased measurably since the dramatic council held in the afternoon, and I judged that less than half the force with which they started was now present.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The camp was selected in the most sheltered place our captors could find, and a great fire was started, before which we stretched ourselves.  The storm moderated during the night, and towards morning the guards who had been set over us yielded to the demands of over-taxed nature and fell asleep at their posts. Not so with our men, however; we were watchful and wary.  By each other's help we had so loosened our cords that we could rid ourselves of them at any moment.  Instinctively we felt that the time had come when we might recover our liberty, and the whispered word was passed along to stand ready for the attempt.  Gun after gun was quietly moved from the sleeping guards and their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>It was now nearing day. We only had a general idea of where we were. We knew that in our last march the evening before we had crossed the main Stockton road and gone for miles in the direction of the Stanislaus river. As daylight broadened, the brightness of the eastern sky gave token of the coming of a clear and stormless day.  The weather as well as our own condition had changed within a few short hours.  To the fury of the elements had succeeded a grateful calm, and from being prisoners in the power of a ruthless enemy, we had become the captors and they the captives.</P>
006.sgm:<P>We lost no time in starting with <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
006.sgm: prisoners in the direction of the Stockton road, which we reached at a point called O'Neill's ranch. As we approached the well-known capacious tent, we saw one of its inmates astir. On discovering us he hurried over the ravine which lay between us, and informed us that a party from Stockton, who had been on the road <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The Stockton Rangers--that was what we called them--greeted us effusively as we turned our prisoners over to them, and the people of the station hastened to prepare for us a much-needed breakfast. In the meantime I was not forgetful of Maturano and the great service he had rendered us the day before. I knew that if he was taken back to the mines it would fare hard with him, and I concluded that I must act at once or the chance would pass away, perhaps forever. I sought him out and told him that as he had been kind to us I intended to aid him to escape. I walked with him past the tent, and when we reached the open plain where the wild oats was dense and tall, I told him to stoop and get away <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>A strong guard of the Rangers was detailed as an escort to our men to return with the prisoners, whilst Dr. Gill and myself were appointed a committee to go to Stockton and lay the facts before the people and the authorities.  On arriving in Stockton we found the community intensely excited, and placards were out calling a mass meeting for that evening. The utmost indignation was directed against Judge Reynolds when it was ascertained that he had issued a writ of arrest, and against the Sheriff for placing it in the hands of the Chileans to serve. Anticipating the coming storm, both the Judge and his Sheriff took hurried departure for San Francisco in a small boat.  I never heard of them afterwards.  But I was informed that Dr. Concha, who was the real author of all the trouble, was killed at a fandango in San Francisco a few nights afterwards.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The mass meeting was attended by nearly everybody in town.  A young man, a nephew of Judge Collier, had come down to Stockton on behalf of the people of the Calaveras camps. He was the principal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>After filing our affidavits, Dr. Gill and myself started back for the mountains.  On arriving home we found that a large delegation of miners from Mokelumne Hill had organized a court to try the Chileans engaged in the recent lawless and murderous acts.  Tirante and two others, to whom were traced directly the murder of Endicott and Starr, were sentenced to death; some four or five of the most active participants in the affair were sentenced each to receive from fifty to one hundred lashes on the bare back; and two, whose culpability was held to have been exceptionally flagitious, were condemned to have their ears cut off.</P>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>OBVIOUS  OBSERVATIONS  UPON  THE  BLOODY  EPISODE</P>
006.sgm:<P>Viewed in the light of the present time, when we have secure jails and safe State penitentiaries, the two last punishments will be considered barbarous and inhuman.  Indeed, mutilation can at no time nor under any circumstances be justified.  A crime which in a crude state of society would be deemed to merit a punishment so repellent to civilized ethics would be sufficiently revolting to deserve the death penalty, and the enforcement of such an expiation would be more defensible than a resort to the practices of the savage. I confess, however, that the mode of punishment so popular with Charles the First and his Star Chamber, did not at the time of which I write, and under the provocative circumstances of our case, impress me with the feeling of abhorrence with which I now contemplate the cruel infliction.  This only goes to prove that our civilization is, after all, but a veneering, and that our inherent nature is that of the savage, only requiring the proper circumstances, conditions and surroundings to draw it out and put it conspicuously <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I have never seen any defense made of the action of Judge Reynolds and his Sheriff in placing the writ for our arrest in the hands of an alien posse comitatus to serve by force of arms upon a large and scattered community of Americans. They must have known that the procedure would have been attended with fatal consequences; and they did know that they had no authority of law to invest a foreign mob with any such semblance of legal power.  The mining laws of the districts were confirmed by statutes by one of the earliest sessions of the Legislature, and they were universally accepted from the beginning as the governing codes of all the mining communities.  The early alcaldes recognized them in settling the local contentions brought before them, and the Judges of the Several Instances into which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>If I am told that we had no right to forbid the Chileans to locate claims for their peons, the answer is obvious, that we had the same right to make this prohibition as the other districts had to forbid the slave owners among our own people to stake out claims for their black bondsmen. There was a general concensus of opinion amongst the miners upon this subject, and it would have been a "most lame and impotent conclusion" to permit an alien to exercise a privilege which was denied to an American citizen. It cannot be claimed that the laws we adopted were harshly or summarily enforced, for we gave the Chileans timely notice, and when they persistently not only refused to obey them, but aggravated their contumacy by driving our own people from their claims, it became a question whether it was not our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I have dwelt thus at length and in detail upon this tragical episode in the early history of the mines for the reason that when a few years ago the mob in the streets of Valparaiso maltreated and killed sailors belonging to a United States cruiser on shore leave, the spirit of hatred then shown by the Chileans was ascribed to the treatment their countrymen had received in the mines in 1849. Perverted references were made in the public prints to what was termed the Chilean Massacre in California, and a profound ignorance of the whole affair was manifested both by those who wrote about it and by the mob who thought, if they thought at all, they were carrying out a commendable retaliation. Even this venemous spirit rankled in the breasts of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Over forty years after the event, the seeds of hatred planted in the Chilean breast at that remote period culminated in the brutal assault and murder of our sailors in the streets of Valparaiso and in international complications that nearly led to war between the two countries. How much of this was due to the prejudice, garbled and ignorant reports of the Calaveras affair that reached Chile we cannot know; but we do know that if all the facts had been fairly and truthfully disseminated in that country frog the beginning they could not have resulted in a national embitterment which survived for more than a generation the event that gave it birth.</P>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>CAMP LIFE IN THE WINTER OF '49--CARNEGIE'S FORERUNNER--A  BORN  TRADER--BEAN  PIES  AND  A HORIZONTAL RAISE--HOW TO MILK A CAMP</P>
006.sgm:<P>Our late experience indicated the wisdom of concentration and we moved our tent and belongings to the lower camp. The rains had set in heavily, and whilst they cut up the roads 50 as to make them almost impassable and raised the prices of all sorts of supplies to enormous figures, they greatly widened the field of mining operations by enabling the miners to work successfully in the steepest gulches and upon the highest flats.</P>
006.sgm:<P>A man named Fash, who had a small train `of mules, started a store in our camp and did a land- office business.  He kept his mules on the road between Stockton and our camp, and enjoyed a monopoly of our custom. He was a born trader, and like monopolists everywhere he charged "all the traffic would bear." He possessed a large sheet-iron stove, and I venture to say that that stove brought him in more money than any stove had ever before made for its owner. He baked pies in it made out of dried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:apples, and his customers climbed over each other to buy them at the rate of $2 apiece, or 50 cents for a quarter cut. For one dollar he would allow a miner to roast a joint of venison or cut of bear meat in it, and it was in constant use coining money for its enterprising owner.  He dealt out whiskey to the thirsty miners in a small tin cup at the rate of 50 cents a drink. His price for ordinary supplies went up and down, according to the state of the weather.  If the weather was moderately fair, he would sell flour, beans, bacon, etc., at the rate of $1 a pound; but if it was tempestuous he made a horizontal raise on all articles of 25 cents a pound. At night some of the boys who were given to poker would gather around his table and while the weary hours away in playing this "noble national game." The rule  was that the "house" should take four bits out of every double pot; and to hold "fours" and "rake in the pot"' carried with it the responsibility of ordering the drinks all round.  Sometimes these games would last till the "wee sma' hours of morning"; but generally by midnight the "house" had depleted the crowd of all its change and produced an enforced adjournment.  On one occasion Fash had found his supply of dried apples exhausted, and the pie question became one of serious moment. But he was equal to the occasion.  His stock of beans was large, and he invented a bean pie which he imposed upon his customers as a novel and delicious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:luxury.  Fash never lost sight of the main chance. His mule train was constantly on the road, going to and coming from Stockton. Some of the miners had advised their people in the states to address their letters to this latter place, and would get the man in charge of the train to call for them. For a while this service was performed gratuitously. But Fash's money-making genius soon saw that there was revenue for him in it, if properly manipulated. So the denizens of "Fashville," as our camp came to be called, had their curiosity excited one morning by seeing posted in large letters in front of Fash's store the legend, "Fash's Letter Express." Inquiry elicited the fact that Fash had formed a league with an enterprising young man named Todd, who had started a letter express from San Francisco to the Southern mines, to take and deliver all the letters destined for the Calaveras camps.  This was considered a very generous and popular move on the part of Fash until the first letter express arrived, when the lucky recipients of missives from home found that they were taxed two dollars on each letter delivered. Undoubtedly our thrifty friend made bushels of money that winter, but I have in late years thought that Fash lived before his time. With his financial genius and resourceful talent for developing money-making schemes, had he flourished in the present day he would have become the president of a national bank, or the chief of a great trust, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>When spring set in the camp broke up and the miners scattered to find river, creek or other diggings. About this time we heard much of the rich deposits found at O'Neill's bar, on a creek of the same name, one of the tributaries of the south fork of the Calaveras.</P>
006.sgm:<P>On arriving at the bar, we found that miners had flocked to it in great numbers, and that an unusually large camp had grown up there. The gold was coarse, and some of the claims were paying well.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>It was at this camp that I first met George W. Trahern.  He was in the cattle business, and had driven in several heads of beeves which he sold readily at the rate of six ounces ($96) a head.  I had heard a good deal about "Wash Trahern" before, and felt interested in him.  He was dressed in a buckskin suit, with a wide-brimmed sombrero, from which depended a wealth of black hair falling over his shoulders. He had a keen black eye and a wary look. He had been a Texan ranger, conspicuous for his bravery during the war of independence of the Lone Star state, and had been in the forefront of all the thrilling exploits of that daring band of partisan warriors.  He came to California, soon after the close of the Mexican war, with his partner, John McMullin, a kindred spirit, who has long since passed over to the majority.  "Wash Trahern" was one of the famous castle of Pirote prisoners during the war for Texas independence, and successfully ran the terrible gauntlet of drawing the black bean. This awful lottery was resorted to whenever the Mexicans desired to shoot a number of their unhappy prisoners.  The devilish process pursued was to range their captives in line, when a Mexican officer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>ROVING  MINERS  AND  THEORISTS  FAILURES--AN  ANDALUSIAN  PROCESSION--AN  EXCITING  GAME  OF MONTE--TAPPING THE BANK</P>
006.sgm:<P>One reason why so large a percentage of the miners failed to "make their pile," as it was then called, was the spirit of unrest that pervaded them. They were constantly on the go prospecting for new diggings.  If they had a moderately good claim and heard of better ones somewhere else, they would pack up and start for them, to find either that the stories they had heard were untrue, or that the choice claims had all been taken up before their arrival. Every one wanted to make a big strike, and there was a prevailing conviction that the farther they went up into the heart of the Sierra Nevada, the surer they would be to get at the source from which the gold had been washed down into the rivers and gulches near the base of the range.  To trace the gold to its great mother source would, in their crude opinion, be to discover an exhaustless deposit of auriferous wealth.  The gold-seekers who kept constantly following this will-'o-the-wisp were filled with <illus entity="a006-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COPY OF A DAGUERREOTYPE OF SUTTER'S MILL AT COLOMA IN 1851  James W. Marshall, the discovverer of gold in the mill race of the mill, stands in the foreground</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Another reason for the many failures was that nearly everybody had a theory about the logical distribution from natural causes of the precious metal. But the fact is that the distribution observed no law or regularity, and theories based upon the tenets of geological science were found to be practically barren of results. Rich deposits were found in the most illogical places, hill diggings of immense auriferous value would unfold themselves to the prospector by the merest chance, and even the law of gravity was often defied by the curious ways in which the gold would be distributed.  The men who had a theory based upon geological principles would ye baffled at every turn, whilst often the ignorant sailor or vaquero, who knew nothing about primary formations or secondary assimilations, would blindly sink a hole in a place where no reasoning man would look for gold, and make an immensely rich discovery.</P>
006.sgm:<P>I recollect an instance of this kind which occurred near Mokelumne Hill.  A man named Clarke, who was famous for finding rich diggings, came into the camp, and, as usual, went upon a protracted spree. After he had spent all his money and could get no more liquor, he started out "to make a rich find," as he said.  It was winter, and he was overcome <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>About this time the inventive genius of the miners was engaged in devising improved machines with which to wash out the gold. The rocker at the best was unsatisfactory.  For two men to run through three hundred buckets of dirt a day--one picking, shoveling and carrying, the other handling the rocker--was considered a good day's work even in claims <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Well, after leaving O'Neill's bar, we tried our luck at various points and experimented with various new machines and with indifferent success.  In the course of our prospecting wanderings we visited the camp at the Middle Bar of the Mokelumne river. This was a very populous and lively camp, deriving its support from several adjacent rich gulches and from extensive and successful mining on the river bars and banks. Gambling saloons flourished under extensive enramadas, and the tables were so well patronized that there could be no doubt that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I witnessed a scene here one Sunday which impressed me with its novelty and picturesqueness. A procession, such as one would expect to see in Andalusia or Estremadura, made its appearance on the trail coming up the river. Mounted upon two large, sleek mules were a gentleman and a lady. The gentleman was a giant in stature and a Don Alfonso in stiffness and dignity. The lady was superbly dressed in the choicest Spanish style, and her complexion showed her to be a daughter of the land of the Montezumas. They were followed by several caballeros, who seemed to be gentlemen-in-waiting upon her ladyship. Then came a long retinue of Mexican servants, some mounted on indifferent mules, some on dreamy-looking burros, and some afoot.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The grand hidalgo, as I then took him to be, turned with his handsome lady, into the main thoroughfare and halted in front of the most considerable house of entertainment in the camp. The mozos, or servants, ran up and assisted his royal highness to dismount, and then he approached his lady with knightly deference and courtly consideration, and assisted her out of the saddle and into the refectory.   The gentlemen-in-waiting dismounted at a respectful distance and the servants led their animals away. In a short time the hidalgo <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"What is your limit at this table?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"We have no limit, sir," answered the dealer.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"You certainly have a limited amount of money in sight."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"True, sir, but when that is gone we can get more."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Francisco, take my bag of dust to the counter and have it weighed," said the hidalgo in Spanish, addressing his purse-bearer.</P>
006.sgm:<P>While he was gone I closely scrutinized the dealer and could see that he was somewhat excited.  He doubtless knew the man he had to deal for, and that it would require all the coolness he could summon to face the frigidity and nerve of his adversary. It was plain to be seen that he was making a strong effort to suppress any betrayal of nervousness, and ordered a glass of brandy and water to help him brace up.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The purse-bearer returned and reported one hundred and fifty ounces in the bag.</P>
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006.sgm:<P>"I shall not tap your bank at present," said the hidalgo, "but I reserve the privilege of doing so at any time I wish. You have about two thousand dollars in it; this bag of dust is sufficient to see it, and more too. Shuffle the cards, and give me a lay-out."</P>
006.sgm:<P>The dealer did so, and laid out a king and a deuce. The hidalgo placed one ounce on the king. Then the dealer laid out a five and a queen, and another ounce was hazarded on the five.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Does the gentleman wish to draw the cards himself? It is his privilege."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"I waive it for the present," was the curt reply. </P>
006.sgm:<P>The king won in a few strippings, and the five was exposed next. The dealer passed over two doubloons to the hidalgo. The playing went on for some time, and the hidalgo was ahead of the bank a good-sized stack of doubloons. He had kept close watch of the cards and seemed like one who was doing his utmost to follow the run of particular favorites. At last he seemed to he satisfied, and got a lay-out to suit him.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Now, sir," said he in measured words, "I am going to avail myself of my privilege to tap your bank, and choose the five against the jack."</P>
006.sgm:<P>The other lay-out he paid no attention to.  The dealer was about to pick up the pack.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Stop, my friend," said the hidalgo.  "I wish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The dealer handed him the deck, and he deliberately turned it face up; and slowly exposed each card as it lay under the one in full sight.  The bystanders craned their necks, and the most intense excitement prevailed.  The room was filled with people, and the only really cool and collected individual there was the hidalgo, who was slowly drawing card after card, and liable at each stripping to win or lose a couple of thousand dollars.  Nearly half the deck had been drawn, end yet neither a jack nor a five bad shown up.  The stillness was oppressive, and everybody held his breath as the hidalgo showed the edge of a court-card which looked very much like the upper part of a jack.  Slowly the covering pasteboard was withdrawn and as the card underneath turned out to be a king the room was filled with long-drawn breathings. The anxiety was now reaching its crucial point, and the tension produced was painful.  Slowly the hidalgo continued to expose the covered cards, until a universal sigh of relief ran through the worked-up crowd as a five-spot appeared and the hidalgo had broken the bank.</P>
006.sgm:<P>He passed the deck over to the dealer, who ran it through, finding the four jacks well down towards the bottom and the other three fives scattered between them.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"Here, Francisco," said the hidalgo, calling to his servant.  "Go and tell Lopez to come here at once with his <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
006.sgm:<P>The servants he wanted were soon present.  He ordered them to dump the whole bank into the serape and take it to the refectory, and rose to leave.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The dealer for a time seemed dazed; but he roused himself by an effort and addressing the winner he asked him if he was going away.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir," said he, rising to his full height of abut six feet three; "yes, I must dine with la se&ntilde;ora, and (drawing his watch) I see my time is up.  But, my dear sir, I will give you your revenge some other time when I have more leisure at my command."</P>
006.sgm:<P>With this the hidalgo walked forth as cool and unconcerned as if nothing at all unusual had happened.</P>
006.sgm:<P>I soon learned that my hidalgo was Col. James, who had taken up a bar down the river and named it after himself.  The lady was his wife, whom he had married in Mexico at the close of the war, in which he had served with distinguished gallantry. The bar paid well, but liberal as was its output it could not keep pace with the lordly expenditures of Col. James.  Two years afterwards the Sheriff took possession and the Colonel went to San Francisco <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>INCIDENTS OF A CAMP LIFE IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF '50--A FIERY MILESIAN CALLS DOWN A PUNCTILIOUS  COLONEL--A  TIMID  MAN  FIGHTS TWO   DESPERATE   DUELS--IT   REQUIRED  MORE NERVE TO DECLINE THAN TO FIGHT</P>
006.sgm:<P>My partner and I found nothing to suit us, and started for the Calaveras river diggings, with which we were familiar.  We passed through Mokelumne Hill, which at that time consisted of a few store tents.  A number of miners were working in the gulches and hill claims, and doing well.  Upon reaching the Calaveras river we opened &amp; claim which paid handsomely.  The gold of this river was all scale gold, uniform in size and shape, and had that soft, bright color which makes scale gold so pretty and attractive.  I rocked the cradle and my partner picked and carried.  One morning, when it was my turn to cook, I prepared the batter for the flapjacks, and placed the pan inside the tent.  I had used all the flour we had in preparing this batch of batter, and was therefore extra careful in placing it in a safe place.  I then went down to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>My partner was an Irishman.  He was a big, strong man, and so considerate of me that when there was any unusually heavy work to be done in the claim he would do it himself.  My protestations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"I'll show you whether it's any of my d--d business or not," said Col. Woodliff, as he seized a revolver from one of the holsters and started to dismount.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Jack ran into the tent, and as soon as Col. Woodliff <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"I'll give you as good as you can send," said Jack.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"I asked you a civil question," said Col. Woodliff; "why did you not answer it civilly?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>Jack was about to make a characteristic reply when I went to him and begged him not to further exasperate the Collector, hut let me talk for him.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"All right," he said, "you answer for me, and I'll let the thing drop; but I would like to clip the feathers of that popinjay."</P>
006.sgm:<P>I told Col. Woodliff that my partner considered his question impertinent, and he answered as he felt, because he thought he had no right to put it.  In the meantime one of Woodliff's assistants held quite an earnest conversation with him.  This man's name was Gass and he was the Colonel's Spanish interpreter.  By this time Woodliff had cooled down, and said he was sorry that he had framed his question in a way that gave offense.  I spoke for Jack and replied in a conciliatory speech, which Jack didn't like to father, hut did all the same by saying that what I had said expressed his sentiments.</P>
006.sgm:<P>I Boon learned that there was a reason for Woodliff's change of temper.  Besides the fact that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I will here say that of the three mining districts into which the Territory was divided for foreign tax collection purposes, its coffers were only enriched by returns from one.  That was the extreme southern district, of which that singular character, Col. W. W. Gift, was the collector.</P>
006.sgm:<P>In the course of a ramble up the river towards the ca&ntilde;on one day, I saw a miner hard at work upon strips of boards which he was nailing together at the edges.  Near by was a cord to which was attached <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:at regular intervals open oyster cans. In reply to my inquiry he said he was making an endless pump, with which he intended to take the water out of his claim So as to get down to the bed rock, where he was sure to find rich crevices.  We both sat down and had a long conversation, in the course of which I learned that his name was A. C. Russell. Some time afterwards I visited the same place, and found the claim abandoned.  Inquiry elicited the fact that Mr. Russell's pump had worked well enough, but that it was unequal to the task of pumping the river dry.  The ground was porous and the water swift near the ca&ntilde;on, and it was impossible to make a dam tight enough to keep the water from coming in in quantities far beyond the capacity of his homemade pump to lower.  I met Mr. Russell afterwards in `San Francisco.  He was the editor of a bright and newsy paper, the <HI REND="italics">Evening Picayune</HI>
006.sgm:.  The position of an editor in those days was anything but enviable.  However careful and impersonal he might be in his articles he was liable at any time to receive a cartel from some super-sensitive fire-eater who would take umbrage at something he had published.  The first challenge he received was from Captain A. J. Folsom.  The captain had been commissary in the United States army and was stationed in San Francisco in 1847-8.  He was a shrewd man and invested what money he had in fifty-vara pueblo lots.  When gold was discovered and the rush to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:San Francisco became great, his real estate, much of it in the present business heart of the city, became very valuable. He was, like all other proprietors, annoyed by squatters jumping his lots, and as he was a resolute man and stood upon his rights, incidents occurred which no newspaper could ignore or fail to comment upon. Captain Folsom challenged Russell on account of some remarks he took offense at, and the duel was fought with pistols near the Presidio. Russell wore a little skull cap with a button on the crown. At the first fire the button was carried away, and at the second the captain's bullet whizzed past Russell's ear, fearfully close. This ended the function, to the great delight of Russell. His next duel was with John McDougal, the Governor of the State. On this occasion Russell had the closest kind of a call. The Governor's bullet shattered Russell's pistol and sent the hammer through the fleshy part of his pistol hand. Russell concluded that he had done enough editing in San Francisco, and went out of the business. I have mentioned these duels for the purpose of illustrating a state of society in which it requires more courage to decline a challenge than to take the chances incident to an exchange of shots. Mr. Russell was one of the most amiable of men. As he himself told me once he could not bear pain himself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:or to see it inflicted upon others. He was the last man in the world to wantonly hurt anybody's feelings. That such a man, for a mere punctilio, should stand up against an adversary to kill or be killed, shows that it would be very wrong to hold those who engaged in hostile meetings in pioneer days to the judgment that would be pronounced by the sentiment of the present time. There is a vast difference between the general feeling on this subject now and that which prevailed at that period. Then the social restraint which now exists had hardly manifested itself. Society was, so to speak, in a state of chaos, and the influences which surrounded the pioneers were all of a masculine character, untempered by the refining conditions which now govern the ethics of all classes. There were but few homes, and the social circle was so limited that the great mass of the people were thrown into contact with each other in such public places as female society is never found in. There was, literally, for many years, as to the great mass of its population, but one sex in California and that was impatient, bold, aggressive and indomitable. Public sentiment, therefore, reflected only the virile opinions of the men who stood at the head of this masculine community.  Imbued with a wild and adventurous disposition, these men had nearly all faced dangers a thousand times, and many of them had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I do not wish to stand before my readers in the light of a defender or apologist of the code, but I desire to protest against that standard of ethics which measures the morality of one period by the yardstick of another and a very different period--the morality of the frontier against that of the center of a mature civilization, in which all the surroundings and influences tend to cherish and fortify the highest sentiments of moral circumspection and social order.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Our claim paid good wages during the summer months, especially when the water in the river had reached its lowest point and permitted us to get at the crevices in the center of the stream.  Some of these were very rich, and often, as the result of a day's work in these pockets, we would clean up a pound of gold.  At length, towards winter, the river began to rise, and we were compelled to work into the bank where we had to strip off from ten to fifteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>THE NUCLEUS OF A GREAT  CITY--TWICE DESTROYED BY FIRE  WITHIN  A MONTH--A GLUT  OF NEWSPAPERS--L0LA MONTEZ AND  HER PETS--HOW A JOURNALIST WOOED, WON AND LOST HER--FROM A PALACE TO A NEW YORK TENEMENT HOUSE</P>
006.sgm:<P>I arrived in San Francisco a few days before the news was received from Washington of the admission of California into the states of the Union. The people were wild with joy at the welcome tidings. It seemed to bring everybody nearer home than they had been since they left the old states for the far-off El Dorado on the Pacific.  Our statehood had only been achieved through the throes of a Congressional controversy which had shaken the Union from the Atlantic to the Mississippi and from the Lakes to the Gulf.  The question of the extension of slavery was at the bottom of the agitation.  California had knocked at the doors of Congress with a free constitution, and her admission was resisted by the pro-slavery men with a ferocity which threatened to bring on the war for separation a decade sooner than it did come to overwhelm the country <illus entity="a006-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO CITY HALL, 1856  Built for a theatre by Thomas Maguire and sold to the city.  The El Dorado, adjoining, a noted early day gambling resort, afterwards became the Hall of Records</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>During the year I had been absent from San Francisco that city had emerged from her primitive and chaotic state and assumed urban shape and form. Several imposing brick buildings had been erected on Montgomery Street, and frame structures had taken the place of canvas houses in every direction. The city front was moving eastward into the bay, and a substantial wharf had been built to deep water for the accommodation of light-draft vessels and of river steamers of which there were several that had come around the Horn, and were plying regularly between San Francisco and Sacramento and Stockton.  Streets were defined and some of them were graded.  Stores of all kinds were filled with merchandise and crowded with customers. There was bustle everywhere and the march of improvement kept step with the constantly increasing demand of a new city in full boom.  The steamers from Panama arrived led with passengers from the Atlantic states; and vessels from all parts of the world were constantly adding their contributions to the human hive.  The harbor was covered with masts, and presented at that time a marine picture such as has never been seen since.  The desertion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Several daily newspapers had been started and others were getting ready to start.  The <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
006.sgm: had gone into energetic and capable hands, and took the first place.  Then came the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
006.sgm: followed by the <HI REND="italics">Daily Courier</HI>
006.sgm:, and shortly afterwards the <HI REND="italics">Public Balance</HI>
006.sgm: made its bow.  John Nugent was getting ready to issue the <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Herald</HI>
006.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Evening Picayune</HI>
006.sgm:<P>Three or four theatres had been started, but none of them were very large or imposing until Tom Maguire built the Jenny Lind, a magnificent temple where the drama flourished for a couple of seasons, when the city purchased the building and turned it into the City Hall.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The scarcity of sailors caused the owners of fine seaworthy vessels to dismantle and sell them for hulks.  The purchasers were generally owners of water lots, and the hulks were warped over the shallow water, located upon the lots and turned into warehouses, business stores and sometimes lodging <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Gambling was still flourishing, and the houses around two sides of Portsmouth Square had increased in number, improved in architecture and enhanced their attractions by the elegance of their interior appointments.  About this time the large brick structure, still extant, at the northeast corner of Clay and Kearney streets was finished and thrown open to the betting public.  Saturday nights the hall was cleared and masquerade balls were held in it to which nearly all the town flocked.  It is perhaps needless to say that the female masqueraders all belonged to the demi-monde.</P>
006.sgm:<P>About this time the city became infested with an unusual number of daring thieves.  It was soon ascertained that there was an organized gang of robbers, principally composed of ex-convicts from Australia.  The term "Sydney thieves" was generally applied to them.  The inefficiency of the police emboldened these gentry, and the most daring robberies became matters of daily and nightly occurrence. The people became exasperated, and secretly organized for the purpose of putting an end to this lawlessness.  A particularly bold and flagitious assault and robbery brought the public indignation to a climax.  A merchant sitting in his store shortly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Although San Francisco had been visited by frequent fires the previous year, the first great fire she suffered from after she had emerged, so to speak, from the canvas era, started on the night of the 4th of May, 1851.  It had its origin in Messerve's paint shop on Clay street, opposite the pie:. Those who attended the masquerade ball in the California Exchange that night--for it was Saturday night--had the first view of the commencement of a conflagration that swept nearly the whole business part of the city. It sped with lightning rapidity from street to street, and lapped up whole blocks so quickly that it was dangerous for any one to loiter to the leeward of its line of march.  Next morning the city presented a sorry scene of desolation.  But two or three brick buildings were left standing on Montgomery street.  The rest of the lower part of the city was a charred, blackened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>A month afterwards, on the 3rd of June. another fire started.  Parts of the city that had been spared by the May fire were swept by the June fire, and many of the newly-erected buildings on the site of the old fire were also consumed by this later visitation.  But with dauntless spirit the energetic population set itself bravely at work to repair the losses, and the young city rose like a Ph&oelig;nix from her ashes the second time in one short month.  These successive fires were undoubtedly felt as great calamities by the immediate sufferers, but they resulted in 8 general benefit to the city in the long run.  A less combustible and more durable class of buildings rose from this time in all parts of the city.  There was a rage for fire-proof structures among the merchants, and buildings of brick with thick iron shutters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Gold continued to flow in great quantities into the city from the mines. The northern mining counties were the most attractive, and those counties became so populous that they soon formed the center of the voting power of the state. The mines on the American, Feather and other northern rivers and their tributaries were rich and numerous. Shasta had become a notable county for the exploitation of the precious metal, and Siskiyou and Yreka loomed up as important gold-producers. El Dorado, however, was at the head of the great yielding mining counties, and had the largest population of any county in the state. Hangtown, as Placerville was then invariably called, was the center of the richest gold region in California. It was by far the most flourishing town in the mountains. It had hotels, churches and newspapers, and <HI REND="italics">The Democrat</HI>
006.sgm:, established by D. W. Gelwicks and W. A. January about that time, was for many years the ablest and most influential journal, outside of Sacramento and San Francisco, in the State.  It was edited with trenchant ability by Mr. Gelwicks, and was really the leading organ of the Democratic <illus entity="a006-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RARE OLD CUT OF PLACERVILLE (HANGTOWN) IN THE 50'S</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:party in California until Col. B. F. Washington and George Pen Johnston gave to that organization a very able newspaper advocate in the old <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Examiner</HI>
006.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1850 cholera was brought across the plains with the immigration and it found in Sacramento the conditions for its propagation in the most deadly and virulent form.  It became epidemic, and was attended with great mortality.  It reached San Francisco, and for a short time caused serious alarm.  But its ravages were confined to the crowded lodging houses, in some of which the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>At the time of the May fire I had an interest in the <HI REND="italics">Public Balance</HI>
006.sgm: newspaper.  We had a fine office equipment including two large power presses. The fire partially destroyed our establishment, and rendered the presses unserviceable.  I let my interest go, and took a position in the <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
006.sgm: office with Judge Crane.  The  assistant editor was "Pat" Hull, a good writer and a very genial gentleman, who afterwards became sixth, or ninth, or somewhere thereabouts, husband of that very eccentric woman, Lola Montez, the Countess of Lansfeldt.  The Countess had built a cottage in Grass Valley, and was very fond of pets.  Two of these were well-grown grizzly bears, which she kept chained at her front door.  Poor "Pat" used to say, when speaking about his alliance with the famous Countess, that the greatest difficulty he encountered in his courtship was to get past those grizzly "guardians of her palace gates."  But love laughs at grizzlies as well as locks, and "Pat" won and married the lady.  Then came his troubles.  The most truculent of the bears, in a playful mood, breakfasted upon the calf of one of "Pat's" legs, and he killed it.  That was enough.  War commenced in earnest between him and his spouse, and Lola carried her matrimonial grievances into court in the shape of a suit for divorce.  "Pat" concluded that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:he had had enough of the mild and dove-like society of the Countess, and let her get a bill by his default.  Lola's <HI REND="italics">pi&egrave;ce de r&eacute;sistance</HI>
006.sgm: on the stage was her Tarantula dance, and it was, indeed, a strange and wonderful performance.  Her make-up caused one to shiver, and when she spread out on her feet and hands <HI REND="italics">&agrave; la</HI>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A LIVELY CHAPTER ON  THE LIVELY INCIDENTS OF A LIVELY  MINING  TOWN--HOME-MADE  THEATRICALS--WAR  OF  THE  SIX  NATIONS--THE  VALUE OF  A  HOME  GUARD--A  MURDER  INTERLUDE--PATHETIC DEATH-BED SCENE</P>
006.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1851, H. A. De Courcey, Henry Hamilton and myself bought a printing outfit and started with it for Mokelumne Hill, which, through the discovery of rich mines in its vicinity, had grown to be a large and flourishing camp.  When we reached the Hill with our press I marvelled at the change that had taken place in a little over a year. There was evidence of prosperity on every hand. On Sundays the miners flocked to the Hill, and the streets were almost impassable with the crowds that blockaded them.  Business was booming, and at night the gambling saloons and fandangos were the centers  of attraction.  Adams Express Office was buying gold from the miners in prodigious quantities.  The output from the deep diggings in the adjoining hills was tremendous.  The gold was coarse, and nuggets, or chispas, as they were called, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Lumber for building purposes was scarce and very dear.  We found at one of the stores a large lot of sheet iron which the merchant had bought to supply the miners with screens for their Long Toms. The demand for it had fallen away, as other methods of separating the gold had been found more suited to the mines of this vicinity; so we bought all the sheet iron he had, and covered the frame of our office building with it.  On the 18th of October, 1851, we issued the first number of the <HI REND="italics">Calaveras Chronicle</HI>
006.sgm:<P>A feature of the camp, and one that was common to all the camps in the Southern mines, was the great number of Sonoranians who dwelt in and around it.  They were really Indians of the Yaqui tribe, those stalwart aborigines who occupy the fairest part of Sonora, and who have successfully resisted all attempts of the Mexican government to invade their territory and bring them under subjugation to Mexican rule.  Their mode of mining was peculiar.  They used neither shovel, pick nor machine.  Their whole outfit consisted of a short crowbar, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:a wooden bowl, or <HI REND="italics">batea</HI>
006.sgm:, and a horn spoon. With these they would prospect around until they found a place to suit them.  With their crowbar they would sink a shaft just wide enough for their bodies to enter, and when they got to the bed rock they would drift until they found a lead or a rich crevice.  It made little difference to them whether they were convenient to water or not.  If they were they would at long intervals come to the surface with their wooden bowl filled with auriferous dirt, which they had carefully assorted, and wash it till only the gold remained in their <HI REND="italics">batea</HI>
006.sgm:; if there were no water handy they would dry-wash, as it was called, the contents of their vessel.  This was done by a curious method of manipulation.  They would agitate the earth in their bowl until the gold had settled at the bottom, then they would blow off as much of the lighter earth at the top as they could and repeat this process until they had blown off all the dirt and only the gold was left in the bowl. `Sometimes they would deftly pour from a height the contents of one bowl into another, blowing upon the descending column, and thus eliminate the lighter material from the heavier, until after many repetitions of this curious process, the gold would be separated from the dirt.  A high wind would help them cut in this kind of work.  Instinctively these people seemed to know where rich crevices and leads were to be found, and in their solitary and <illus entity="a006-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOKELUMNE HILL FROM "OUR INLAND TOWNS" ISSUED IN 1860 AND NOW VERY RARE</P>
006.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:quiet way they were supposed to take out a great deal of gold from the mines.  At any rate, they were the pioneers of many rich discoveries.  Wherever one would go their coyote holes would show that they had been there before.  They were inveterate gamblers, and their pet game was monte. If there was a monte bank going anywhere there you would find your Sonoranian placing his money on the <HI REND="italics">caballo</HI>
006.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">el soto</HI>
006.sgm:<P>There was a large number of fine, manly men in Mokelumne Hill at that time.  The law was ably represented by such eminent practitioners as George T. Bagley, H. L. Buchanan, George H. Campbell, Wm. L. and Allen P. Dudley and T. Jeff. Gatewood. Among the county officials was A. B. Laforge, County Treasurer, a fine specimen of manhood, who had run the black bean gauntlet at the castle of Pirote; Charles A. Clark, the Sheriff, who had made a fine record during the Mexican War, and was as efficient as he was brave.  Dave Mulford, also a Mexican War veteran, was his chief deputy, and a peerless one he was.  General Cadwallader, with his son Charles, H. L. Sturges and Thomas B. Wade, were among the leading merchants.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Adams Express Company was represented by a young man of exceptional brightness and business capacity, H. Q. Clark.  He was the leading spirit in the organization of a theatrical company out of the good home material we had for that purpose.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:A building was rented and turned into a small theatre.  A stage was built, scenery painted and a drop curtain adjusted.  The lights consisted of candles. In order to darken the stage when the exigencies of a play required it, the footlights were placed at intervals on a long board which reached from one side of the stage to the other.  By an ingenious contrivance this board could be raised or lowered by the working of a lever from the prompter's desk. Openings were made in the stage to permit each candle to appear or disappear as a light or dark stage was wanted.  There was one young man in the company who aspired to heavy tragedy.  All he wanted was a chance to enact Richard the Third, and he would show what kind of histrionic stuff was in him.  Now if there was any department of the drama in which this young man was fitted to shine, it was certainly not the tragic.  In low comedy he might have been a success; but in tragedy, impossible.  He was so persistent, however, in his demand to appear as the crook-backed tyrant that the management finally agreed to permit him to give the Bosworth field tent scene.  The house was crowded. It was a dark stage.  Richard was writhing on his couch.  The ghosts of King Henry, Clarence, Rivers and Buckingham had worked him in his sleep up to concert pitch.  With a frantic bound he leaped from his couch and rushed to the front of the stage with his sword beating a tattoo on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The female characters in this novel theatre were personated by the most effeminate-looking members of the company.  There were two reasons for this. One was that we gave the pure drama as it was given at the time of Queen Elizabeth, when such a thing as a female actress was unknown.  The other was that Mokelumne Hill was entirely destitute of the fair sex--that is, of the fair sex who could speak English, and we were not giving any of de Calderon's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Mokelumne Hill was amongst the first mountain towns to organize a militia company.  The state furnished the arms and their equipments, but no uniforms.  Sheriff Clark was elected captain, and Sergeant Pollock, an ex-soldier, drilled the men with great assiduity.  When the Calaveras Guards made their first public parade in new uniforms, with a fife and drum and a new silk American flag at their head, it was a proud day for the Hill.  The wisdom of organizing this company was soon made manifest.  A serious mining trouble had sprung up on the river near Campo Seco, between several companies of American miners and a number of foreign miners, principally Italians, of whom there were a great many in Calaveras county.  Both sides had sent out for their friends to come to their assistance.  The County Judge ordered out the militia, and Captain Clark marched with the Calaveras Guards to the scene of trouble.  He arrived just in time to prevent a serious battle.  San Andreas district had sent a column of five hundred men to assist the Americans.  On the other side the Italians had got together a formidable force composed of Italians, Mexicans, Peruvians and other nationalities.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>The recalcitrant replies contemptuously that his pay will be only in county scrip. This is too much for the irate general, and he thunders out:  <HI REND="blockindent">"Would that those words had choked within thy gorge.<LB>Is county scrip not honored by Laforge?<LB>There was a time when county scrip was fudge;<LB>But that was in the dynasty of Mudge."</HI>
006.sgm:<P>Mokelumne Hill at this time was no more exempt than other mining towns from frequent acts of violence.  She had a mixed population of Mexicans, South Americans and Kanakas, and scenes of personal encounter were constantly occurring amongst them, in which the handy knife played a conspicuous part. The fact that the camp was prosperous and money plentiful attracted to it a large number of American gamblers and their usual attendants, sharpers and desperadoes. Deadly encounters were frequent amongst these turbulent characters, and we often had "a man for breakfast," as was the popular way of putting it when a fatal brawl had occurred the night before.  But these acts of violence were very scrupulously confined to the class mentioned. I recall one more than usually notable tragedy that occurred on Christmas morning, 1851.  A rough character named Jim Campbell, who had gone to California with Stevenson's regiment, had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:"painting the town red" in celebrating Christmas Eve, and seeing a saddled mule hitched in front of a resort called the "Ceberiana," mounted the animal and rode up and down the street shouting, after the manner of his kind, "Hoopa, Mula," to the amusement of his boon companions who were delighted spectators.  Estabon Naides, a large, fine-looking Chileno, the owner of the mule, on seeing his animal thus abused, naturally ran to intercept the wild rider and recover his property.  As he seized the mule by the bridle, at the same time making a motion as if to draw his pistol, the desperado slipped down the other side and drew an immense bowie knife. The mule got away and Naides retreated to the front of a building, but failed to draw his pistol, for some reason never ascertained.  The American desperado must have been fifty feet from the Chilean when he launched his knife with all his might from his hand. The weapon, point first, struck Naides in the breast and went, so great had been the force with which it had been hurled, clear through his body, killing him instantly.  The murderer was at once rushed off by his friends and taken to a miner's tent in a gulch some considerable distance out of town.  Naides was a man of consideration with the Latin population, and they at once organized a party to pursue his assassin.  They traced him to the tent and fired into it. The fire was returned, and some were wounded on both sides. In the meantime <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:Campbell made his escape.  He went to San Francisco, and was killed a few months afterwards in a street light with one of his kind opposite Portsmouth Square. Years afterwards, during a visit to the San Francisco county hospital, I heard my name called in a low whisper by a pale, emaciated man lying upon a cot, and almost in the last agony. I went to him and found that he was one of the men who lived in the tent where Campbell had sought refuge.  When the Latins fired into the tent he received a wound from which he had never recovered and from which he was then dying. He was entirely innocent of complicity in Campbell's awful crime, but paid for it with several years of excruciating suffering and finally with his life. So true it is that the misdeeds of others are often dearly paid for by persons who are in no way responsible for them. Poor Morgan, for that was his name, took from under his pillow a letter from his wife.  It was a sad and pathetic appeal to him to write to her, and, if he could to send her a little money, for she was sick and their children starving.  "Oh, Harry," she said, "if you have any memory of our happy days and of the joy that came to our hearts as our dear children were given to us by a kind Providence, don't let them perish for the want of bread. At least if fate has ordained that we must go, let us have a word from you and it will be a dying consolation to us."  I was greatly affected at this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>REMARKABLE OUTCOME OF A DUEL--DUELS OUGHT TO BE FOUGHT ON EMPTY STOMACHS--CRYSTALLIZATION  OF POLITICAL PARTIES-DIVIDING ON SECTIONAL   LINES--BRODERICK   AND   GWlN   THE IDOLS OF THE NORTH AND SOUTH--HOW TO GET RID OF AN OBNOXIOUS HAT</P>
006.sgm:<P>I was suddenly called to Sacramento, one day, by a message announcing that my partner, Harry De Courcey, had been shot in a duel and would probably die. I took the first stage for Sacramento, and on arriving there ascertained that Harry was lying in a house in Washington, across the river, where the meeting had come off. I lost no time in reaching his bedside, and to my dismay found that the bullet had entered his side and one clear through his bowels.  Yet in spite of this desperate wound, Harry was in excellent spirits, and declared that he would pull through all right. I remained with him several hours, and was amazed at the lightness with which he treated his case.  During the afternoon I went over to Sacramento and met Ed Kemble, the partner of Gilbert of the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
006.sgm:, who was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>"You see," said he, "when De Courcey asked me to act for him, I told him I would do so if he would place himself entirely in my hands and follow my directions.  He agreed to this.  I then sparred with the other parties for time.  By dilatory expedients in correspondence, I delayed the meeting for three days, so as to get my man in condition.  In the meantime I confined him strictly to his room and placed him on a toast and tea diet, and not much of that.  Consequently when he reached the field his stomach was empty, and when his adversary's ball perforated his bowels the flaccid intestines offered no resistance to the bullet, which passed between them and out at the other side.  No vital part was affected, and as soon as the exterior flesh wounds healed he would be as sound as ever."</P>
006.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding Mr. Kemble's explanation was plausible and reassuring, I felt that it would be a miracle if Harry ever got out of his bed. I remained near him for a couple of days, and he improved so rapidly that I started for home.  As Mr. Kemble <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:had predicted, when the flesh wounds closed and healed, Harry left his room, and soon was in as good condition as he ever had been. He returned to the Hill, sold out his interest in the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
006.sgm:<P>On my return to the Hill, I found Mr. Hamilton perplexed about how to get the paper out.  Our inking roller had mysteriously disappeared from the office.  Without it no paper could be printed.  We instituted a rigid search for the missing article, and at last found its wooden stock in a nearby gulch. The condition and the surrounding evidences at once explained who were the perpetrators of the theft. Whenever we made a new roller we would strip the old one off the stock and throw the pieces out. The Indians would flock around the office on these occasions and devour the cast-out pieces with great gusto. As the rollers were made out of the best molasses and glue, it will be readily seen that to their untutored <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:taste they were a <HI REND="italics">bonne bouche</HI>
006.sgm:<P>The first constitution of California was submitted to a vote of the people on the 13th of November, 1849, and ratified by an affirmative vote of 12,061 and 811 against it.  At the same election Peter H. Burnett was elected Governor, and John McDougal, Lieutenant-Governor.  George W. Wright and Edward Gilbert were elected to Congress.  The Legislature met at San Jos&eacute; in December, 1850, and elected John C. Fremont and Wm. M. Gwin to the United States Senate. A few months after Burnett had taken the oath of office as Governor, he resigned and John McDougal succeeded him.  No attempt was made by the people in the first election to divide on party lines, and the successful candidates were really elected by the two or three cities in which there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Down to 1855 the Democrats were largely in the majority.  The Native American party swept the state that year, and placed J. Neely Johnson in the executive chair, and David S. Terry on the Supreme bench. The Democracy, however, returned to power at the next general election, and retained control of the government down to the breaking out of the civil war.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The early legislatures had a difficult task to perform in building up a system of laws suitable to the exceptional wants of our state.  But there was a large number of very able ma and distinguished lawyers, both in and out of the Legislature, who took an active part in framing the statutes that were adopted, and in laying the groundwork for a complete system of jurisprudence. The bar of California was opulent with lawyers of the very first rank, and such men as A. P. Crittenden, Edmund Randolph, John Curry and Hugh Murray contributed their valuable aid in framing and perfecting the laws of the State.</P>
006.sgm:<P>For several years the Legislature was practically <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>The Legislature which met at San Jos&eacute; in 1850-51 was composed of bright and able men, many of whom cut an important figure in California history subsequently.  Ben Lippincott, Elcan Heydenfeldt and Judge Watson were members of that Legislature.  These gentlemen were not only capable lawmakers, but they largely partook of the jocund spirit of the times.  Ben Lippincott prided himself on being the best bird shot in the State, and never missed a chance to parade his fine Damascus twist double-barreled gun. During the session Judge Watson paid a visit to San Francisco and returned wearing a fine, glossy silk hat--the only one in San Jos&eacute;.  He was as proud of his shining "stove-pipe" as the other members were envious of it. The Judge was not the kind of man who would stand with impunity the vulgar way of treating silk hats in those days; but yet it was intolerable for his colleagues to be compelled to have this one in constant sight.  Heydenfeldt and Lippincott formed a conspiracy for its destruction.  The former took occasion to have a serious talk with Judge Watson about the nuisance it was to be forced in season and out of season to listen to Lippincott's tiresome bragging about his shooting, and proposed to stop it. Watson sympathized with him.</P>
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006.sgm:<P>"But how will you do it?" he asked.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"I was thinking of a plan," said the wily conspirator. "You know how touchy he is about ridicule.   Now if you will go to him, and just as soon as he branches out on his favorite theme, laugh at his pretensions and tell him that he?s only a common every-day shot, and so forth, he'll flare up and propose to test his marksmanship.  Then, if you offer to bet that he can't hit your hat at thirty paces, he'll jump at it."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"But I don't propose to have my beautiful hat shot to pieces," said the Judge with alarm.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Nor will you. Just listen. His room is next to mine, and be keeps his gun in a corner of it.  Bc- fore making the banter, you and I will slip into it and draw the charges of shots from the barrels, and your hat will be safe."</P>
006.sgm:<P>The Judge thought it would be a good scheme, and agreed to carry it out.  After the two had withdrawn the charges of shot, the Judge hunted up Lippincott, and soon provoked the desired challenge and accepted it.  The gun was at once produced, and the party adjourned to a clump of bushes upon one of which Judge Watson hung his "tile."  Lippincott took deliberate aim and fired. Consternation was depicted upon the Judge's countenance when he saw his hat flying in pieces in all directions.  Elcan could not contain himself with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>"I see it all," he cried, as he shook his fist at the two conspirators.  "You had double charges of shot in that gun.  But I will get even with you both for this shabby trick." And he hurried to his room to don a regulation slouch hat, which was the kind of head-gear he always wore afterwards.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The first indication that the Democratic party would at a later day become seriously factional on sectional lines made its appearance in this Legislature. David C. Broderick, a New York politician of the Tammany school, a very positive and aggressive man, impatient at the air of supremacy he imagined the Southern Democracy assumed, became the able, powerful and autocratic leader of his wing of the party.  But a respectful truce was maintained by the two elements down to 1854, when the convention was held in Sacramento. Each wing of the party tried to capture the organization. The feeling on both sides was bitter, and the "chivalry" wing withdrew in a body and two Democratic conventions sat in different places at the same time and nominated two separate tickets.  The most strenuous efforts were made to reconcile the factions, but without success. The Whig party was in a state of disintegration, so that the bulk of the vote at the election went to these two tickets, and the "chivalry" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Both the Democrats and the Whigs in their platforms for several years declared that they were in favor of the immediate construction of an overland railroad, of the establishment of a line of steamers between San Francisco and the Orient, of the most liberal concession of public lands to the `State for educational purposes and that they were unalterably opposed to the sale or lease of the mineral lands of the State and in favor of leaving them open and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>The breach between the "chivalry" wing and the northern wing of the Democratic party continued to widen and increase in bitterness.  The factions were respectively under the leadership of Wm. M. Gwin and David C. Broderick. The former was an astute politician, a very polished gentleman and endeared himself to his followers by a personality which was at once winning and courteous.  He strictly carried out all his promises, and never lost a partisan friend by deceptive or ambiguous courses. Broderick was a man of strong and rugged make- up. He was implacable as an enemy, but unswervingly true to his principles and his friendships. He was the idol of the rougher classes, and controlled them to his iron will by a supremacy that brooked no question.  His straight-forward, indomitable course, and his loyalty to principle rallied to his support that strong and respectable element of his party which was impatient at the arrogance of the "Chivs," as they were denominated. He was indeed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A TRIP EAST--A GOOD PLACE TO "GO BROKE"--HOW AN OLD FRIEND INDUCED ME TO RETURN IN THE STEERAGE--AT  THE  HILL  ONCE  MORE--BABY YARR0W AND THE OLD MINER--THE OPENING OF A GREAT MINE</P>
006.sgm:<P>The mines in the vicinity of Mokelumne Hill continued to yield bountifully of their treasure, and the business of the town was lively and flourishing. I began to feel that it was about time to pay a visit to my old home in the East, and I sailed in February, 1853, from San Francisco on one of the Pacific Mail steamers for New York via Panama.  I was accompanied by a miner who had come to California during the Mexican war, and whose frugal and industrious habits had enabled him to return with a goodly "pile." His principal reason for going East was to attend a meeting of the heirs of Anake Jans, of whom he claimed to be one. They were to hold a great meeting in Cincinnati at which important business was to be transacted in bringing their suit, as they fondly hoped, to a successful termination. He spoke as if there was no doubt that they would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>As we sailed down the Pacific coast I could distinguish many prominent landmarks that made me know I was traversing those places where I had suffered so much on the brig <HI REND="italics">Laura Anne</HI>
006.sgm: four years before. We steamed into New York harbor through cakes of floating ice and landed in the city on a bitter cold day. The streets were banked up with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>I spent the Spring, Summer and part of Autumn in visiting old friends and in "doing" some of the fashionable places of resort, when my exchequer admonished me that I must lose no time in starting back to the State where I could soon replenish it. I was on my way down Broadway to the steamship office to secure a ticket, when I heard myself hailed by a familiar voice.  On turning I found it was Allen P. Dudley, who had left the Hill before I did. Friendly greetings were exchanged and we walked down the street arm in arm. As we proceeded he asked me where I was going.  I told him I was on my way to the steamship office to buy a ticket for California.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"What a lucky coincidence!" he said. "That's just where I'm going, and for the same purpose."</P>
006.sgm:<P>I was somewhat annoyed at this, for I did not want him to know that I was not going out as a first-cabin passenger.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"See here," remarked Dudley, after a while, "what's the use of us spending $325 for a first-cabin ticket.  Let us go back as second-cabin passengers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>I was afraid, I told him, that I couldn't stand it, although I was delighted to know that he was not going in the first cabin. I reluctantly acquiesced in his suggestion, however.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Now look here, Jim," he said in a persuasive way, as we neared the office at the foot of Warren street, "what's the use in paying out a great handful of money to go in the second cabin, when we can get a steerage ticket for $75?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>He was talking <HI REND="italics">at</HI>
006.sgm:<P>"Pshaw!  What's the use of you and I putting on style.  We've roughed it before, and we can do it again.  Anyhow, I'm going in the steerage whether you do or not."</P>
006.sgm:<P>This suited me to a T, but I would not let Dudley know it; so I stood a good deal more persuading and finally yielded, reluctantly, for his sake. The passage out was devoid of incident, if I except several scrapes Al's abusive tongue got us into with some of the passengers, and a violent altercation he had on the Pacific side with Captain Whiting about some inconsequential matter. Dudley had the most exasperating use of invectives of any man I ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>It was raining cats and dogs when we got into San Francisco, but in spite of the weather I went around enough to show me that the city had grown extensively during my two years' absence, for I had made no halt there on my way East. Streets in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>When I passed through Stockton on my way to Mokelumne Hill I saw that that town had also gone ahead surprisingly.  It was the great entrepot of the Southern Mines, the prosperity of which had given it an immense traffic.  Agriculture had also taken a start, and many successful miners bad taken up farms in the vicinity, or secured extensive tracts for grazing. It was plain that Stockton was to become the centre of large agricultural interests, as well as the point of supply for the mines.</P>
006.sgm:<P>On reaching the Hill I found that many improvements had been made since my departure.  The mines were being worked more systematically and some new and important discoveries were adding to the general prosperity of the town. Some attention <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>One of the most pretentious improvements that had been made during my absence was the building of a large and thoroughly equipped theatre.  This fine and expensive structure was financially engineered by H. Q. Clarke, Adams &amp; Company's agent, and I fear that most of the funds for its construction came out of the strong boxes of that company without Clarke taking his superiors into his full confidence.  So far, however, the theatre had been a financial success, and seeing this perhaps the head men of the company connived at the agent's use of their surplus funds in a paying but irregular transaction.  Traveling companies, the local histrions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>The Hutchinson family gave one of their popular entertainments to a crowded house the first night of my arrival. In these days of break-neck rashes for a patch of land in an opened Indian reservation, it is refreshing to look back to the time when the Hutchinson family used to sing their famous song with the truthful refrain that "Uncle Sam was rich enough to give us all a farm."</P>
006.sgm:<P>In the meantime some of the Hillites had sent East for their families, and a nucleus of American society was formed. A number of fine ladies graced the social circles of the Hill, and the change was conspicuous in the care with which the young men dressed themselves.  Red shirts became less frequently worn as one of the principal articles of apparel in the streets, and "boiled" shirts, as they were then called, made their appearance with other civilized wardrobe.  A transition period was apparent not only in the care bestowed upon dress, but in the amenities exchanged, the touches of refinement that were observed and the general toning down of rough speech to a more decorous style of diction.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The appearance of children on the street and an occasional babe in its mother's arms were sights which had long been denied to the grizzled miners, and their rugged faces would be lit up with a soft <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>I had not been long back from the States when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>When I reached Amador creek I examined a quartz mine there that had been worked with arastras for a year or so. I entered the mine and found that the men were taking out a character of quartz that paid liberally, worked by the primitive mode they were pursuing in crushing the ore.  That mine was the celebrated Keystone, and has been worked constantly ever since with improved machinery.  For forty odd years it has been considered one of the best mining properties in the State, yielding variously a net income to its owners of half a million dollars and upwards every year, and its output now is, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>REMINISCENCES OF THE STAGE--VALUABLE PRESENTS TO  ACTRESSES--HOW THE SPIRITS HELPED  A MANAGER OUT OF A BAD SCRAPE--EXPERIENCES IN  BARN-STORMING--FIDDLETOWN MISNAMED--A DELIGHTED AUDIENCE OF ONE--SENATOR CONNESS--ON A MOUNTAIN SLEEPING WITH THE STARS</P>
006.sgm:<P>A custom had obtained in the mines, whenever a lady appeared on the stage possessing exceptional qualities of beauty or talent that made her a popular favorite, to raise a purse of gold specimens and present it to her on her benefit night. In the Chapman troupe, which played for a season at the Mokelumne Hill theatre, there was a young <HI REND="italics">danseuse</HI>
006.sgm:, called Josephine on the bills, whose charms of person, rather than her artistic merits, had turned the heads of half the town. When her benefit night came a considerable purse of nuggets had been raised, and a rather diffident young man about town selected to make the presentation. His friends were astonished to see him on the night of the benefit sitting in the front row of the orchestra seats elegantly dressed. It was not known at the time that there was such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>I have related this incident not so much on account of its laughable d&eacute;nouement as to record a custom of those days which was sometimes carried to a ridiculous extreme.  When the Allleghanians visited the Hill they were accompanied by Miss Greenhough, a charming singer and a most attractive person.  She was very young, as well as being very beautiful, and possessed a sweet and captivating voice.  She took the town by storm, and the miners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>I was not greatly astonished one morning to find that Harry Clarke had "skipped" and left Adams &amp; Company in the lurch for a considerable sum. The agent of the company came to the Hill and three of us made arrangements with him to lease the theatre. Our venture went along smoothly enough until we struck a theatrical snag that came well nigh swamping us. Harriet Carpenter held the position of leading actress on the boards in San Francisco and Sacramento. She had a short time before married Ben Moulton, a well-known and popular express messenger. Everybody knew Ben and Ben knew everybody. He was a giant in stature and development and a fine specimen of physical manhood in every respect.  "Miss" Carpenter had bloomed out as a star after her marriage, and we engaged her to come to the Hill and play for us at an enormous salary. About this time the Fox sisters in Rochester had discovered that departed spirits had adopted ordinary wooden tables as the medium through which to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>For a few nights Harriet drew good houses. She was a very stilted and mechanical actress, without warmth or magnetism, and the theatre-going public soon got tired of her and left us to play to almost empty seats.  The management was in a world of trouble.  Their contract was binding and the weekly salary had to be forthcoming.  In the meantime Ben Moulton, who had accompanied his wife to the Hill, had suddenly disappeared, and "Miss" Carpenter was in distress about it. We still continued to put the best pieces in our repertory on the boards, but our exchequer kept on going down to low-water mark.  This continued until we saw that we would have to do something desperate to extricate ourselves out of our difficulty, or go bankrupt.  Harriet gave no signs of wishing to cancel the engagement.  Her fine salary, as long as it was forthcoming, diverted her attention from the fact that she was not earning it.  At last, one morning when we were all on the stage together, "Miss" Carpenter proposed that we should hold a table-tipping s&eacute;ance.  A table was brought and the s&eacute;ance commenced.  The first question our "bright, illustrious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>"Was there anybody with him?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Yes."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Was it a man?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>The table tipped twice, and that meant "No."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"A woman?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Yes."</P>
006.sgm:<P>That settled it. She rose with blood in her eyes, went straight to the stage office, bought a seat, and the next morning started for San Francisco, breaking her contract to smithereens. Our star left us in financial straits, but by good management and the playing of a few taking pieces with home talent we got the treasury into shape again.  As Spring approached business fell off, when one day Lambart Beatty, a peripatetic actor, and his wife, who was not an actress, dropped in upon the management.  Lam had a fine wardrobe and would have filled a place in an established stock company to good advantage, but as a star he could not be considered a drawing "card." We played him three or four nights to poor houses and then closed down. It must have been a week after this when my partners both came to me and told me that Mr. Beatty and his wife had been shut in the green room for several days.  We at once proceeded to the door and insisted upon admission.  It was really a sad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:sight. The poor people were gaunt with hunger and on the verge of despair. Their money was all gone and they were too proud to communicate their situation to any of us. We tried to cheer them up, and made them eat a meal for which we had sent to a restaurant. As the result of a consultation, we proposed to Beatty a plan out of his difficulties. It was to prepare a suitable programme that he and I could perform and take the road for it.  He assented. The bills were printed, the necessary wardrobe packed, and we started for Campo Seco. Bills had been sent ahead to the various towns we were to play in, so that we were well advertised when we arrived in the several places. We did so well at Campo Seco that Beatty entirely recovered his spirits. From there we went to Volcano, where we had more encouragement.  The next place was Fiddletown, and here we had to put up with a shabby barn for a theatre. However, we cleaned it out, seated it with boards, made a small stage, hung the proscenium with blankets, and there you were. We had to get along without an orchestra, for strange to say not a fiddler was to be had in Fiddletown. The performance passed off well, however, but the house was excruciatingly thin. Next day we started for Mud Springs.  There was a good hotel there, kept by a nice man named Howard, and as Mud Springs had a considerable population, in expectation of doing a large business we rented a spacious hall and fitted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:it up regardless of what it cost. We also went to the expense of getting an orchestra consisting of two accordeons and a violin, and paid them in advance. This, with the other expenses, about cleaned out our purse; but we knew it would be filled by the rush for seats that evening. We went to our hotel in fine feather and ate a hearty supper. When we arose from the table we were alarmed about the weather. It had commenced to rain, but the season was so far gone we reassurred ourselves with the belief that it would prove only an April shower that would soon pass over. We went to our room to make preliminary preparations, and then, with our wardrobe in oilskin handbags, proceeded to the theatre. Our man of all work had already lit up the hall, and we went behind the wings and arranged the things we were to wear in the various acts in a way that they would be ready to our hand as we wanted to put them on. In the meantime the rain had increased in violence and was coming down in sheeets. The door had been open for some time, and, with the exception of one lone individual, nobody had come as yet. As we watched the door for the sudden rush we could hear the rain beating upon the roof like a shower of bullets, and it seemed to increase in force as the time passed. Lam looked blue and I felt like a funeral. It was half an hour past the time for the curtain to go up and our solitary auditor was still alone.  The thing was getting serious.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"Well, Lam," said I, "here we are; what do you think we had better do?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"I'm sure I don't know," said Lam in a dejected tone.</P>
006.sgm:<P>I saw that he was relapsing into his former dumps and I tried to rally him.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"See here, Lam, there's no use of giving way to the inevitable. If it hadn't been for this confounded rain we'd have had a rousing house."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"That's just it. The fates are against me. My ill luck haunts me and I seem to be doomed to constant disappointment."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Pshaw!  Let us make the best we can of it. Anyhow, don't let us take the matter to heart. What do you say, now that everything's ready, if we play to this one man we have.  That will rouse us and may help us to see our way out of it."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Very well," said he, "you speak to the man, and if he don't want his money back we'll give him the worth of it."</P>
006.sgm:<P>I found our solitary individual a good-natured fellow, and he seemed to be delighted with the idea that he could have the performance all to himself. I told the two accordeons and the fiddle to tune up and we went on the stage to dress.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>It was not long before both of us entered enthusiastically into the novelty of the situation, and we played up to our best standard.  I had never before played to a more enthusiastic audience. The man was delighted with everything we said or did--guffawed outright at every hit, and in the most serious parts of the scenes we gave from "Venice Preserved" and "The Wife," he fairly shed tears. When Belvidere was "by a wave washed off into the deep" the appreciative fellow looked the very picture of apprehension lest I should not "instantly plunge into the sea and redeem her life at half the cost of mine."  But it was the droll sayings of Looney Mactwalter in "The Review" that gave the climax to his hilarity, and when the curtain dropped on the last scene and I dressed and went out to him, I asked him how he liked the performance. He declared it was the best he had ever seen, and said he would come every night. When we started for the hotel, I took the whole audience out and treated it, notwithstanding to do so consumed all the money that had come into the treasury.</P>
006.sgm:<P>I found no difficulty in squaring matters with the landlord, and good and early we started for Hand town, not being in financial condition to give the people of Diamond Springs, although we had to pass through that town, the benefit of a taste of the legitimate drama as presented "by two eminent American tragedians."  On arriving at Placerville we found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Hangtown, or Placerville, was, at that time, the most considerable and flourishing mining town in the State.  Its numerous stores were doing a rushing business and its caravansaries were crowded. The surrounding mines were yielding generously of the precious metal and the town was the commercial focus of a large group of prosperous mining camps. Gambling, one of the surest signs that the mines of a locality were paying well, was in full operation in all the saloons.  Keno seemed to be the popular game, and wherever it was played crowds of miners were attracted to it.</P>
006.sgm:<P>It was here I met for the first time John Conness, afterwards United States Senator. He lived <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>On our homeward trip we met with an adventure which is worth relating. We were following a trail leading to the Consumnes river, over which we thought we would have no difficulty in being ferried. But the trail ended at the river in a Chinese camp. When the Mongolians saw us they scattered in all directions, under the impression, as we thought, that we were foreign miners' tax collectors. After much friendly signalling one of the Chinamen came to us and we told him we wanted to be put across the river, which was swift and running banks full. He jabbered something about a boat and pointed to, a light a mile or two down the river. It was twilight and the shades of evening were rapidly closing round us. We now felt assured that we were in sight of a ferry and would find entertainment and rest on the opposite side. So along we sped in the direction of the light.  Our disappointment was great on reaching it, for it proved to be a Chinese lantern hung on the branches of a tree over a new-made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>But the longest night must have its end, and so had this. As soon as day dawned I rose and devoted myself to a bout of violent exercise to restore my normal warmth.  I then determined to cross the river if I had to swim for it. With this intention I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>We picked up our belongings and followed the trail down the river for some fifteen miles, when we came to a ferry opposite Michigan bar, where we got a good breakfast and a recuperating rest.  I walked clear into the Hill that night, arriving there about ten o'clock leaving Beatty at Jackson, where he declared he must stop for he could go no farther.</P>
006.sgm:<P>This was my first and last experience in what is now called barn-storming theatricals. But arduous as it was I look back upon that trip with satisfaction. I would not have made it for gain, but volunteered to go out of a philanthropic motive to relieve a poor actor in distress.  It served its purpose.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>THE HILL GOES UP IN SMOKE--RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO-ITS MARVELOUS GROWTH--COLLAPSE OF ADAMS &amp; CO.'S BANK--ITS TREASURES DISSIPATED--FACTS THAT LED UP TO THE ORGANIZATION OF THE GREAT VIGILANCE COMMITTEE--CHIEF JUSTICE TERRY IN ITS TOILS</P>
006.sgm:<P>My late experiences on the road had somewhat cooled my ardor for theatricals, and I made up my mind to go to the bay and engage in the newspaper business.  But I had various interests at the Hill which I would have to adjust before I made the change.  I was busy in winding up my affairs when an event happened which wound them up for me in short order.  A fire started one night in a cigar store.  The wind was high and the town was without an organized fire department or an apparatus with which to fight a serious conflagration. It spread rapidly and in a short time it reached the larger buildings, all composed of the most combustible materials.  When it reached the theatre that immense building at once sent out a blase which rendered hopeless any effort we could put forth to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>On arriving there I could see that the city had made great progress. Immense brick blocks had been erected at several points on Montgomery street, which retained its original prestige as the principal business thoroughfare of the city.  John Parrott, the banker, had erected a costly granite building out of material brought from China, and it was by far the most solid and symmetrical business structure in San Francisco. The city had been extended over the water front to nearly its present line, and the intervening water lots to Sansome street had been nearly all filled in.  Wharves had been extended to deep water from the foot of the principal streets, and stately clipper ships were safely moored along side of them discharging cargo.  Long Wharf, at the foot of Commercial street, the first wharf of any length that had been constructed, was lined with retail stores and became a popular promenade. Many fine residences had been erected on Russian Hill and many of the most prominent families of the city lived luxuriously in them.  Stockton street was well built up and many handsome residences aligned it, principally on the west side.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The most persevering efforts were made by property <illus entity="a006-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FASHIONABLE STOCKTON STREET, LOOKING TOWARD NORTH BEACH, IN 1856</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:holders in the northern part of the city to popularize it as a residence section, but for some reason the city had an antipathy to going that way. The trend of improvement was southward and westward, and many flue fortunes were swamped in trying to turn it in the direction of North Beach.  For many years Russ' Garden, beyond Sixth and Folsom streets, was the great Sunday resort.  Here beer foamed, waltzers whirled, balloons ascended and a variety of athletic and other games were sufficient attractions to bring great crowds out from the city on the "day of rest."  Sportsmen went gunning on the flats beyond and it was no trick at all in the season to fill a game bag with fine ducks on the marshes spreading out from Mission creek, now covered with massive warehouses.  The little steamer Clinton, owned by Charley Minturn, who had been a leading merchant of New York before he came to California, was the only boat plying between the city and Oakland, and the traffic was not great. Oakland at that time only reached scatteringly for two or three blocks up Broadway from the landing, and most of her houses were devoted to the entertainment of pleasure-seekers from the city.  A few enterprising men were endeavoring to grow fat oysters out of plants brought from Shoalwater Bay, and the Potter beds that had been carefully enclosed north of the landing were the ones that scored the best success.  Drum fish, star fish and other enemies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>In the Spring of 1855 the city was convulsed by the collapse of Adams &amp; Co.'s bank. This financial institution was conducted in connection with Adams &amp; Co.'s express, and its ramifications extended to all parts of the State and coast. It was a popular institution and carried an immense amount of deposits from all classes. When its doors closed a panic ensued which disastrously affected a number of other banks, and only the very strongest concerns were able to successfully weather the financial storm. General Sherman, of Atlanta fame, was in charge of the bank of Lucas, Turner &amp; Co., a branch of the St. Louis institution. It was a very conservative bank and was not in any way involved in the general crash, but it went out of business with clear balances soon afterwards. I. C. Woods was the principal manager of Adams &amp; Co. at the time of the failure, and in the many scandals which followed the collapse he was held to be mainly responsible for the utter dissipation by disreputable processes of the immense sums that were left in the bank's vaults when its doors closed. James King of Wm. held a responsible position in the concern when it failed. He had been in the banking business for himself, and having been induced to transfer his interests <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Some months afterwards James Ring of Wm. started the <HI REND="italics">Evening Bulletin</HI>
006.sgm: and made it a vehicle of ferocious attack upon municipal corruption and evil-doers of high and low degree.  The <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
006.sgm:, under his management, became the <HI REND="italics">censor morum</HI>
006.sgm: of the community, and the lash was relentlessly applied to men in public places, especially those who had secured their offices by devious political methods. Ballot box stuffing was popularly considered as the easiest method to step into office, and it was believed that the city hall was filled with men who had been elected by this shameless species of fraud. Amongst these was one James P Casey, who consorted with the "roughs," and was a determined and dangerous man.  He held the position of supervisor.  It was not to be presumed that James King of Wm., while dealing out trenchant excoriations to all sorts of evil-doers, would allow 50 shining a mark as Casey to escape "scot free." No one was, therefore, astonished when the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
006.sgm: aimed its deadly shafts at the man who was presumed to be the leading spirit of the gang who turned minorities into majorities by the manipulation of fraudulent tickets in the ballot-box.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:His time came, and Casey was put to the question.  His antecedents in New York were exhumed and he was charged with being an ex-convict. Casey had started a Sunday paper called the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
006.sgm:, which he got John C. Cremony, a ready writer, to edit. He tried to explain away the fact that he had been sentenced to Sing Sing for larceny by saying that when he was a young man he got entangled with a designing woman, and had supplied a house for her with furniture bought on the instalment plan; that it was surreptitiously sold; that he was tried on a charge of larceny before a jury and convicted of "constructive" larceny. He claimed that he was the victim of a youthful indiscretion and that his misfortune should not be brought up against him as an inexpiable crime.  James King of Wm. impaled his explanation by saying that society could forgive a repentant convict only on the condition that his repentance was sincere and made evident by his reformation. He then denounced him as a ballot-box stuffer and all that was bad and dangerous in a community.  Casey, when he had read the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
006.sgm:<P>The people were worked up to the highest pitch of frenzy when the news of the assassination spread. They poured down town in great streams, and that night the first steps were taken to organize the Vigilance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The popular uprising was the most remarkable ever known.  It was not a revolution, but a social revolt against crime.  Its ranks filled with amazing rapidity, and every member was known by his number.  A series of lofts in a brick block on Sacramento street, below Front, were secured as the headquarters and citadel of the committee.  The men were divided into companies and regiments and placed under efficient officers.  Arms were secured; the front of the building was protected by a fortress made out of gunnybags filled with sand; ship cannon were placed in the embrasures of the fort so that they could rake the streets; guards were mounted, companies were drilled and everything gave token that the edicts of the Vigilance Committee would be backed by a strong military force.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The Sunday following the assassination of James King of Wm. the military arm of the committee moved upon the county jail, where Casey was imprisoned.  The jail was guarded by a few militiamen who had obeyed the summons of the Sheriff. The Vigilantes approached the jail in three columns from as many directions, and concentrated in front of the building. A loaded cannon was pointed at the iron door of the jail with a man ready to fire it at a given signal.  A deputation of the committee summoned the Sheriff, David Scannell, a brave man who had with distinguished gallantry stormed the heights <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Of course these irregular proceedings did not take place without protest. A very large and respectable portion of the community ascribed the prevalence of crime and its immunity from punishment to the failure of the best class of citizens, especially the business men who were very generally members of the Committee, to perform their duty as electors and as good citizens.  They had "shirked" jury duty and left criminals to be tried by the riff-raff of society. All the evils that had confronted the city could have been avoided or punished if the very men who were <illus entity="a006-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HEADQUARTERS OF THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE OF 1856, SHOWING "FORT GUNNYBAGS" IN FRONT  Photographed 1856.  The building remained until the fire of 1906</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>The Law and Order element had a powerful organ in John Nugent's <HI REND="italics">Daily Herald</HI>
006.sgm:.  The paper was boycotted by the business community, and, in one day, from a large and flourishing journal, filled with advertisements, it collapsed to a little four-page sheet, and its subscription list fell off in proportion. But what it lacked in size it made up in ability, for the occasion had rallied to its assistance some of the most powerful intellects on the coast.  It fairly blazed with articles instinct with all the eloquence and logic that the brightest minds could bring to bear on the subject and the situation.  Such men as Edmund Randolph, Gen. Volney E. Howard, Wm. Walker (the "grey-eyed man of destiny"), Eugene Casserley, John T. Botts and a score of others made the columns of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
006.sgm:<P>J. Neeley Johnson, who was Governor of the State, took a firm stand against the Committee, and went so far as to do his utmost to enlist the Federal authorities to take active measures to put it down. But they refused to interfere, not because they sympathized with the uprising as much as from the fact that they were without sufficient force to successfully suppress it.</P>
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006.sgm:<P>The most active of the Law and Order men mustered a force at the armory of the San Francisco Blues, at the corner of Jackson and Kearney streets. But recruits came in slowly and unwillingly.  In the meantime the officers of the Vigilantes held their men well in hand, and the Executive Committee was in almost continuous session. They examined the cases of a number of characters notorious for their turbulent lives and vicious antecedents, and some of these were ordered to leave by the service upon them of a notice that became famous as that of "No. 33, Secretary."  If they did not leave the State when they were served with this notice they were forcibly deported.</P>
006.sgm:<P>David S. Terry was the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court, and had come down from Sacramento to consult with Law and Order men about plans to suppress the Committee. As he was one of the most resolute of men, the Committee set Spies upon him to watch his movements. He was sitting in the office of Dr. Ashe, United States Marshal, discussing the situation with Reuben Maloney, Dr. Ashe and others, when one Hopkins, an emissary of the Committee, undertook to lay hands on Judge Terry. The Judge at once drew his knife and plunged it into the neck of the emissary.  He fell, and the whole party, knowing that they would soon be hunted down by the Committee, hastened to the armory. The Committee arrived before the armory with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The Committee continued in session during the summer, and disbanded in the fall, not, however, until they had built up a <HI REND="italics">point d'appui</HI>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>THE GENESIS OF A MODERN DAILY NEWSPAPER--A MINT SHORTAGE LEADS TO A LIBEL SUIT--CITY LANDS GRABBED UP IN LARGE TRACTS--THE STEAM PADDY MAKES SAN FRANCISCO WHAT IT IS</P>
006.sgm:<P>When the Vigilance Committee organized I was engaged on the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
006.sgm:<P>John Nugent, the editor, was a man of small physique but undaunted nerve.  He had backed his writings in the field on several occasions and carried in his pistol arm the scars left by the well-aimed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:bullet of Col. Thomas Hayes, the owner of Hayes' Valley. He was proud, reticent and exclusive. He wielded a nervous, trenchant and luminous pen, was a ripe scholar, a staunch friend and a relentless enemy. When employed by James Gordon Bennett, the elder, as Washington correspondent of the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
006.sgm:<P>The collapse of the business of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
006.sgm: by the withdrawal of patronage consequent upon its antagonism to the Vigilance Committee, gave me ample time to speculate upon the next move I should make.  That part of the community which was opposed to the Committee was very bitter, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:it was in a helpless minority. On the other hand the friends of the Committee resented the several efforts made by the Law and Order men to produce a collision and public opinion on both sides became intensely exasperated.  A newspaper called the <HI REND="italics">Town Talk</HI>
006.sgm: had gained a good footing in the community as a cheap daily.  It was served to subscribers at the rate of 12 1/2 cents a week and had run up a considerable circulation.  It became a strong supporter of the Committee, and its advertising business was so favorably affected by its course that it increased its size and its price at the same time. I saw that it had left a newspaper field open which if taken advantage of by the right parties might result in a successful journalistic venture.  I therefore submitted my views to a number of printers, and after having canvassed the matter carefully, determined to start a cheap daily newspaper. Five <ANCHOR ID="n16-1">*</ANCHOR>
006.sgm: of us formed a copartnership and purchased the material necessary to launch our enterprise.  We were puzzled about a name, none of us caring to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1">The names of the original proprietors were: Chas. F. Jobson, D. W. Higgins, Llewellyn Zublin, W. L. Carpenter, James J. Ayers.  George E. Barnes, who was to be one of the founders, was called out of the city just before the paper started; but returned in a few months and bought Carpenter's interest.  Mr. Zublin soon retired from the firm, and went to Honolulu.  His interest was purchased by Peter B. Forster. At the time of the Frazer river excitement, Mr. Higgins sold his interest to the concern, so that for ten years the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm:<P>"There," said I to my friends, as soon as my eyes lit upon the title of the afterpiece, "I've got a name for our paper, and there it is," I cried as I pointed to the show bill.  "`The Morning Call,' that name just meets our ideas. It is novel; it is appropriate; it rolls nicely under the tongue; it is striking; it will fix itself on the memory, and it will be looked for by our subscribers with the same impatience that a friendly morning call is looked for from one we like.  The child's born." And they were all so favorably impressed with the happy thought that they echoed in chorus: "Yes, the child is born."</P>
006.sgm:<P>On account of the strong feeling existing in the community for and against the Vigilance Committee, and because also there was division amongst ourselves on the subject, it was agreed that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:paper should ignore it.  The Committee had disbanded and a disposition to let bygones be bygones was making itself manifest, so that to pursue the policy we had determined upon was made comparatively easy.  The first number of our paper was issued on Monday, December 1st, 1856. Instead of printing a sheet of any pretentious size and padding it out with cheap or gratuitous advertising, we had concluded to start only with a very small paper, filling it with live matter and paid advertisements, and enlarging it as our business increased if it should do 50. The whole paper was written and set up by ourselves, one of the stipulations of the articles of copartnership being that when the editor was not employed in gathering news or editing the paper, he should fill out his time at ease. From the very start the paper received a warm welcome from the public. It gave all the news in the most concise shape, its most elaborate articles being limited to about sixty lines.  It took especial interest in the working classes, and was the first public organ to sound the alarm against the importation of coolie labor, which had then begun on a scale that threatened to disastrously affect the welfare of workers of our own race.  The circulation rapidly increased and we soon found that enlargement was necessary so as to accommodate our advertising customers. One enlargement after another followed in rapid succession until <HI REND="italics">The Morning Call</HI>
006.sgm: took its rank with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The juvenile days of the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm: did not escape the trials and difficulties incident to the early life of all successful newspapers.  As it grew in size and influence we were naturally compelled to increase our force in the editorial room and in all other departments.  We secured as a writer a very singular character named Wm. H. Newell.  He was afflicted with deafness, but we all thought that it was a convenient kind of deafness and that when he made up his mind to hear he could do so wonderfully well. It was perhaps owing to this peculiar gift that he could obtain information which was carefully withheld from other newspaper men.  The elder Bennett used to say that he wanted men about him who had "a nose for news."  If Newell's deafness was real, he must have had a nasal faculty of tremendous power to whiff in news, for he could "smell out" the most guarded secrets of officials, the most sensational scandals and the most carefully covered movements and intrigues of party leaders.  It had got out that there was trouble in the United States Branch Mint about shortness in the annual settlement. Newell set his nasal organ at work to get at the bottom of the tumor, and a succession of sharply-written articles appeared in the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm: on the subject <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:of the shortage which created a profound sensation. The sum of the expos&eacute; was that it had been discovered in the annual settlement that there was a shortage of between three and four hundred thousand dollars, and that this formidable shortage had been traced to the Melter and Refiner's department. It then became a serious question as to how so great a shortage could have been concealed in previous settlements, for it was not to be presumed that so much gold could have been abstracted at once, but that the pilfering, if pilfering there were, must have been going on for several years.  This carried responsibility for the loss to the Treasurer of the Mint, whose duty it was to see that the annual settlements should be so conducted that every dollar in the institution would be accurately accounted for. The Treasurer became incensed at the imputation which was thus cast upon his integrity, and had the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm:<P>The facts of the publication of the alleged libel were proven; then one of the employees in the Melter and Refiner's department was placed in the witness box for the defense. He was asked by Love whether <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>"Why don't you answer?" asked Love insistently.</P>
006.sgm:<P>He made no reply, but covered his face with his handkerchief.  After a long pause Love suddenly plumped the question to him:</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Don't you know that you will lose your place if you tell the truth?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>Before General Baker or District Attorney Byrne could interpose an objection, the witness blurted out:</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Yes; I know I will."</P>
006.sgm:<P>That settled it; and all the eloquence of General Baker or the keen logic of Byrne in summing up their side of the case could not get a verdict of "Guilty" from the jury.</P>
006.sgm:<P>We realized that we had had a narrow escape, and when we came to seriously review the subject came to the conclusion that Newell was too much of an element of danger to have free access to our columns, and the opportunity soon arose for us to gently hint to him that we would thenceforth dispense with his services.  Newell would have been a man of inestimable value to a newspaper if he would have submitted to direction.  He was a writer of ability, had command of a piercing and virile diction, was sometimes graceful and happy in his illustrations, and always strong, direct and cutting in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm: was afterwards conducted with the greatest care and with the utmost regard to truth and fairness, it was always in trouble with libel suits.  One of these had its amusing side, although it proved very costly to us in the end.  Albert S. Evans, a bright reporter, saw the opportunity for a smart paragraph when the news of the loss of the steamer <HI REND="italics">Brother Jonathan</HI>
006.sgm: and nearly all on board was received.  A colored man, who had taken passage on her on her fatal trip, was seized by officers acting for his creditors on a writ of <HI REND="italics">ne exeat regno</HI>
006.sgm: and taken ashore just as the steamer was casting off her lines.  When the news of the catastrophe arrived, Evans, remembering the circumstance, wrote that he considered a striking paragraph about the narrow escape the colored man had had from a watery grave, and headed it "A Darky in Luck."  There was nothing in the screed personal or offensive that any ordinary person could see, and we were therefore greatly astonished when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>During the Frazer river mining excitement in 1858 the stampede to British Columbia was so great that real estate values in San Francisco were seriously affected.  Many large fortunes in that city date their beginning from realty investments made at that time. But it was soon discovered that the mines of British Columbia were by no means comparable to those of California, either in richness, extent or the facility with which they could be worked, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>For years the titles to what were termed the outside lands had been seriously questioned. The city proper was bounded on the west by Larkin street and the Beideman tract, just beyond that line, consisting of over one hundred acres, and the Hayes' Valley tract, perhaps as much more, had been claimed by two men and held in possession by the from the Territorial times. They had fortified their tenure with every title available, and they ha strengthened their claim to these tracts by selling a granting portions of them to a large number c people and popular societies. So many, in fact, were interested in these lands that an ordinance was passe by the Board of Supervisors by which the city recognized the validity of these titles, and Mr. Van Ness was elected Mayor of the city distinctively from the fact that he was the author of the ordinance.  A strong effort was made to treat these lands as pueblo lands, and to apply the Spanish rule of distribution, to them. But the Supreme Court rendered a decision by which the Van Ness ordinance was sustained, an these extensive tracts were placed on the market ani sold at first in 50-vara lots.  Some of the finest streets in the city now intersect these tracts, and <illus entity="a006-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COLOMA, CALIFORNIA, ABOUT 1856</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The "steam-paddy" cut an important figure In bringing these lands into value. Immense sand-hills covered them at short intervals, and these were removed at comparatively small expense because the demand was great for material to fill the water lots and to raise the level of the extensive marshes lying between Mission street and Mission creek.  The celerity with which these sand-hills were removed was a marvel.  Rails were temporarily laid from the hills to the city front or to the marshes, and trains of sand-cars of great length were run on them.  The rails were moved where wanted as the hills were leveled or the water lots filled.  The steam-paddy was an immense moveable scoop, worked on a derrick by an engine. The scoop, or shovel, would take up a great quantity of sand every time it was projected into the hill, and it was then swung around and its contents dumped into the cars.  In this way whole blocks were leveled, streets graded and great tracts made ready to be built upon in a space of time astonishingly short. The contractor who introduced this ingenious contrivance made an immense fortune out of it.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>THE FATAL DUEL BETWEEN TERRY AND BRODERICK</P>
006.sgm:<P>In 1859 politics became intensely hot. Broderick, who had been elected to the United States Senate in 1857, came back to the State in a mood that augured trouble.  When Gwin was elected as Broderick's colleague it was understood that, in order to secure the latter's aid, he had been required to indite and sign a letter acknowledging his indebtedness to Broderick for his timely assistance and relinquishing to his colleague all claims he might have to the distribution of Federal patronage in this State.  This letter was known to exist and it had been in the keeping at various times of some of Broderick's most trusted friends.  In spite of this compact, Gwin ingratiated himself into President Buchanan's counsels and his advice was followed in the appointments made for California. Broderick naturally felt that his confidence had been abused, and returned from Washington in a state of great exasperation.  He prepared to take the stump, although it was a new thing for him to make public addresses.  He was to open the campaign in Sacramento, and his friends <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>After his return to San Francisco, he sat down to breakfast one morning at his hotel and he noticed that a lawyer named Perley was sitting near him. He picked up the morning paper and was incensed at a dispatch he found in it from Sacramento. The dispatch referred to a political meeting held there the night before addressed by Chief Justice Terry, who alluded to Broderick in very unparliamentary terms. Broderick looked at Perley, whom he knew to be a strong friend and partisan of Terry, and spoke to him in a very contemptuous manner of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Perley rose from the table in a great passion and wrote to Terry a circumstantial account of what had transpired.  Terry lost no time in reaching San Francisco and sending a challenge to Broderick, which was at once accepted.  Considerable correspondence passed between the seconds; no acceptable basis of conciliation was suggested on either side, and the time and place were fixed for a hostile meeting.  The secret, however, got out, and the Chief of Police, Martin J. Burke, appeared on the field and broke up the meeting by placing the principals under arrest.  They passed their word that they would appear that afternoon in the Police Court to answer, and the time for the duel was postponed.  Judge Coon, who was Police Judge, set 2 o'clock that afternoon for hearing the case.  Both the principals were there with their counsel.  Colonel E. P. Baker appeared for Broderick, and Calhoun Benham for Terry.  The upshot of the hearing was that the charge was dismissed, as no law could be found upon which to hold the accused.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>It was known that night that the duel was to take place the next morning somewhere near Lake Merced.  After having driven most of the night I reached the field shortly after daylight on the morning of the 13th of September.  The place selected was a little valley shut in by hills, near the ocean, and about two miles from the head of Lake Merced. By count there were seventy-three spectators present, and these were divided about equally as friends of the principals to the duel.  When the ground was measured off and marked, the distance seemed murderously  short.  Broderick's  seconds  were Joseph C. McKibben and David Colton; Terry's: Calhoun Benham and Col. Thomas Hayes.  Samuel H. Brooks appeared on the field as general adviser of Terry.  Broderick had none, unless Leonidas Haskell might have been considered such, for he was in close conversation with him nearly up to the time the word was given.  Dr. Loehr, editor of the <HI REND="italics">German Democrat</HI>
006.sgm:, was there as surgeon for Broderick, and Dr. Hammond in the same capacity for Terry. Dr. Aylette held himself within call.  Two pairs of pistols were produced.  One pair belonged to Dr. Aylette, but had been for several months in possession of Judge Terry.  The other had been brought to the field by a French gunsmith, Broderick's armorer.  McKibben and Benham tossed up for choice of weapons, and the latter having won, selected the Aylette pistols.  Broderick's armorer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:protested to Mckibben against using those pistols on the score of the peculiar conformation of the handles, and because the triggers were set to too fine a hair; but nothing came of it. The pistols were placed in the hands of the principals by their respective seconds. Broderick, when he received his, examined it anxiously and then held it by his side. Terry at first held his weapon behind him, but afterwards rested it across his breast on his left arm. Colton was to give the word. He explained that the word would be given by saying: "Gentlemen, are you ready?" and upon receiving an affirmative response he would say "Fire--one--two," with a pause between each word, the principals to deliver their fire between the first and last words. Hayes repeated the instruction, and there was a moment of deep silence and tense anxiety, as the two men faced each other with pale but determined faces. Just before the word was given Brooks walked over to Terry and whispered something in his ear. Terry, who wore a slouched hat with a wide brim, raised the brim, and a cloud passed over the field that obscured the rising sun. It was then seen that Colton was about to give the word, and the crowd held its breath. In clear, measured tones Colton pronounced the words. The word "fire" was hardly ended when Broderick commenced to raise his pistol. He had got it but partly raised when the charge went off, and the bullet entered the ground <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>It was seen at once that Broderick was hit.  He made an effort as if to brace up and stand his ground.  But the effort was unsuccessful.  He put his hands--still holding the pistol--to his right breast, and gradually sank to the ground. His seconds and surgeon ran up to him.  The bullet had entered his right breast above the nipple.  Dr. Ayelette offered his services and they were accepted. Terry remained in his place till he was told by Benham that the affair was ended.  He entered a carriage and was driven off.  The crowd dispersed. A litter was prepared and Broderick was placed in a wagon and driven to the residence of Leonidas Haskell, at Black Point, where he lingered in great agony for four days, and died.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The killing of Broderick produced a profound sensation throughout the State.  There was a strong feeling, especially amongst his friends, that he was the victim of a trick of the <HI REND="italics">duello</HI>
006.sgm:, and that the fight was not one of equal chances.  Talk about hair triggers and pistols with peculiar handles was beard everywhere, and the newspapers were filled with articles in which it was claimed that the "Chivs" had conspired to do Broderick to death by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>My impression at the time was that the duel was conducted strictly according to the rules of the code.  Terry had the same right, under those rules, to bring his own pistols to the field, as Broderick had, through his armorer, to bring a pair with which, it is presumed, he was familiar. But when McKibben was told by the armorer that the Aylette pistols should not be used because they were set to too fine a trigger, it was his duty to have at once insisted that the spring of the trigger should have been adjusted to an ordinary tension. In view of the fact that Broderick's pistol went off as it did, there is no doubt the armorer was right, and that McKibben assumed a fearful responsibility in permitting his principal to fight with such a weapon. Broderick was undoubtedly placed under such a disadvantage with the Aylette pistols, with which Terry was presumed to be perfectly familiar and of which Broderick knew less than nothing, that that provision of the code which provides that both parties to a duel shall be placed on a perfect equality as to weapons, was disregarded. The funeral of the dead Senator took place on the 19th of September. It was one of the great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The result of this duel served to inflame the minds of the people on sectional grounds. They were already divided on political lines-the northern and southern Democrats being irreconcilably separated. But the death of Broderick, and the circumstances attending it, swept away whatever hope there might have been for a reconciliation between the two wings of the Democracy.  The "irrespressible conflict" was making rapid strides; and the civil war, which was soon to follow, already existed in this State in epitome. Yet but few believed at that time that our country was on the eve of a terrible, fratricidal struggle.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>NARROW ESCAPE OF CALIFORNIA FROM CIVIL WAR--GENERAL ALBERT S. JOHNSTON'S NOBLE ATTITUDE--GREENBACKS   DISCREDITED--THE  WAR FEVER  RAGES--FIVE  REGIMENTS  RAISED-A MEMORABLE FISHING EPISODE--A MIRACULOUS CATCH AND A GRAND PROCESSION--TWO STRIKING DESTINIES</P>
006.sgm:<P>When the Civil War broke out, it became a serious question whether the sympathizers with the South would not make an attempt to carry our state out of the Union.  General Albert Sidney Johnston was in military command of the department, and although the unionists were believed to be in the majority, yet if General Johnston, who was an ardent Secessionist, and laid dawn his life for that cause at the battle of Shiloh, could be prevailed upon to act as General Twiggs did in Texas, the secessionists could raise the standard of rebellion in this state with the odds decidedly in favor of their success.  But General Johnston was a man of the nicest sense of honor, and refused to betray the trust he held under his commission.  The <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm:, at this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The crisis was not over until General Sumner arrived suddenly from Washington and at once assumed command of the Pacific Department.  As soon as General Johnston surrendered his command and resigned his commission, he made his way south, taking in his train a number of the leading secessionists of the State and the coast. General Sumner addressed himself at once to securing the State against the dangers which confronted her. No one can contemplate without horror the awful conditions which could have arisen on this coast if General Johnston had yielded to the entreaties of the extreme secession element.  Bleeding Kansas would have afforded but a shadowy picture of strife beside the tremendous warfare that would have been waged in California between the hostile forces. The whole state and the adjoining territories would have been deluged with blood, and the substantial advances which twelve years of superhuman effort had made would have been swept away.  Cities and towns would have gone up in smoke, and California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:would have been reduced to a howling wilderness. Only the tremendous lines placed in Anthony's mouth by the divine poet can fittingly depict the horrible scene which civil war in California would have presented:  <HI REND="blockindent">"Blood and destruction would be so in use<LB>And dreadful objects so familiar,<LB>That mothers would but smile when they beheld<LB>Their infants quartered with the hands of war."</HI>
006.sgm:<P>Thanks to Johnston's nobility of soul, he was loyal to the highest instinct of honor, and our state was saved from a calamity which would have set her back a quarter of a century in the march of civilization, and brought sorrow and mourning to thousands of desolate hearthstones.  Let no man mention this great captain's name disparagingly.  He laid down his life in the shock of battle for a cause which he might have immeasurably served in safety by an act which many would have praised as noble, and which but a choice few of his partisans would have denounced as a gross breach of military faith.</P>
006.sgm:<P>After the war broke out an attempt was made to introduce greenbacks into general circulation. But the paper money was not well received.  The people of the State had never used anything but hard money in their general transactions, and it was not difficult to confirm them in a determination to adhere <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>One result of this policy was undoubtedly to the general disadvantage. Our merchants flooded the state with goods bought at the East with greenbacks and sold here at apparently cheap prices for gold. The difference between the value of gold and greenbacks opened an immense margin of profit to the merchants, and although our people were buying their goods at prices which, on their face, were in keeping with those prevailing at the East, they were actually paying for them an extraordinary advance on those prices. Many large retail firms <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The war fever rapidly spread throughout California after the firing upon Fort Sumter.  It was expected that a call would be made for troops from this state, and the ardor of our young men at once filled the ranks of the National Guard in order that they might perfect themselves in military drill. But no call was made.  The expense of transportation was too great, and the Government did not feel that it would be wise to weaken the Union strength on this coast at that time.  Afterwards, however, a call was made for five regiments to guard the posts on the frontiers, and relieve the regulars, who were transferred to the scenes of active warfare in the south.  These regiments were so distributed that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Before the Third Regiment started for Utah, James W. Stillman, who had come up with me on the <HI REND="italics">Laura Anne</HI>
006.sgm: from Realejo, and who was the adjutant of the regiment, came to me and proposed that we should have one good day's fishing before he left for Camp Douglas.  Jim and I had had many a good day's sport in Raccoon Straits, and he was a master hand at cooking a chowder.  I gladly agreed to go, and we sallied forth to select the right kind of fellows to make up a congenial party. We knew just where to go to find the men we wanted.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"Why, I'll be glad to make one of the party, and there's Jake Chase," who was superintendent of the market, "I know be would he glad to go."</P>
006.sgm:<P>He called Jake over, and he said, "Certainly."</P>
006.sgm:<P>That made up the party, and the next morning we met bright and early, and went to the foot of Washington street where we got a boat to suit, put in our "traps" and sailed away.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The tide was not yet right for good fishing in Raccoon Straits, so we pulled over for Goat Island, not with the expectation of doing much there, but of filling up the time till we should row away for the Straits.  We first threw out our lines in front of Captain Dowling's, who had lived on the island for years, and claimed to he its owner by pre-emption.  But Uncle Sam, a few years afterwards, would not have it so, ousted the Captain and took possession of the island for military purposes. Well, we fished patiently for a couple of hours on the south side of the island, but caught nothing worth speaking of.  We then moved around to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"By the Lord Harry," said Stillman, "this beats the Wampanoags." The Wampanoags was a standing simile with him for everything.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"I tell you, boys," said Bill O'Brien, as he landed in the boat a fat brace of shiners, "this beats anything I ever struck. If it keeps up much longer our boat will be full to the guards."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Say, Stillman," I cried out exultantly, as I was pulling in my line with all my might, "I think this beats our experience on the <HI REND="italics">Laura Anne</HI>
006.sgm:<P>"Yes," replied Stillman, "only these fellows are gourmets and must have genuine bait, whilst those Lower Californian idiots were satisfied with a white rag."</P>
006.sgm:<P>We had been hauling them in as fast as we could for a couple of hours, and our boat was nearly full.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"I never saw the like of it," said Jake Chase; "if they don't stop biting soon we will have to throw them overboard, or they will swamp our boat."</P>
006.sgm:<P>At last they eased off in their eagerness for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>We were really tired out, and concluded to pull around to Dowling's and take a rest.  When we reached the landing Dowling's eyes got as big as saucers looking at our miraculous catch.  He had never seen the like of it, and said that he never knew before that salmon would take the hook.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Taking a large mess to the house, Stillman and O'Brien set about cooking them.  We had abundance of other edibles and refreshments in our baskets, and Jake and I brought them up to the house.  I can only remember one time before when I ate a meal with the gusto I ate that one.  The salmon were cooked to a nicety--for both O'Brien and Stillman were first-class caterers,--and the etceteras we had brought with us fitted in so well with the toothsome young salmon, that I ate like six. But there must be an end to all things, and one cannot eat on forever, no matter how inviting and palatable the <HI REND="italics">menu</HI>
006.sgm:<P>After a good smoke, we made free with Dowling's blankets, and took one of the most refreshing siestas I had had for many a day.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The lengthening of the shadows in the east admonished <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>When we landed at the foot of Washington street a crowd soon gathered and were loud in expressing their astonishment at our marvelous catch. We secured a number of poles upon which to hang our fish in strings. O'Brien sent a messenger up town whilst we were stringing the beauties, and before long a great number of our friends put in an appearance. Their remarks ranged from the incredulous grunt to the highest note of admiration.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Look here, O'Brien, you don't mean to say you caught that mess with hook and line, do you?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Barry, as sure as you've got a hole in your mouth, we pulled 'em all in with our little lines."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Yes, I've heard of people getting up a reputation as boss fishermen by buying their catch from the professional dagos. Those fish look very much as if they had been taken in a seine."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Say, Stillman," another would cry, "what did you pay for the lot?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>We vouchsafed no answer to these doubting Thomases, but kept on stringing our fish on the poles. At last everything was ready, the poles were taken up by stalwart fellows, and we all fell into line, with the four triumphant fishermen locked arm in arm at the head of the procession. A fife and <illus entity="a006-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MONTGOMERY STREET LOOKING NORTH FROM CALIFORNIA  A photograph taken in 1856.  The granite building occupied by Wells, Fargo &amp; Company Express, erected in 1854, is still standing.  The granite was brought from China; transportation thence being cheaper at that period than from the boundless supplies of the Sierra Nevada</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:drum had been procured, and as we passed the customs house a well known character rushed out with a good-sized American flag, and took his place between the band and the "heroes of the hour."  In this order we marched past Washington market, when our ranks were swelled by an accession of butchers in their aprons and a host of other market men "accoutred as they were."  As we passed the Bank Exchange and turned into Montgomery street the humor of the occasion seemed to seize everybody, and the people fell into line by hundreds.  With music playing, flags flying and our miraculous catch strung out on poles, we marched along the principal thoroughfare.  By this time the news had spread that the highest kind of jinks was going on, and the people flocked from all directions to Montgomery street.  The windows all along the line were raised and filled with staring heads.  Arrived at Market street, we called a halt.  To our astonishment there suddenly appeared on the scene great numbers of plain women with market baskets in their hands. Stillman--who was a splendid after-dinner speaker--addressed the crowd.  He told the story of the catch, and wound up his witty remarks by inviting the women with baskets to come near and have each a mess.  Our catch was soon distributed, the fife and drum struck up, we again formed in line, marched to the Auction Lunch, dismissed the procession and the play was over.  The miraculous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I always think of that day as one of the few white days that appear in every life.  But when from this distance of time I look through the lens of memory and bring into bold relief the actualities of the careers of two of the men who participated in that day's sport, I cannot refrain from exclaiming with the poet, that life is but <HI REND="blockindent">"A tale told by an idiot,<LB>Full of sound and fury, signifying nothing."</HI>
006.sgm:<P>Let us, for instance, draw a parallel between the destinies of O'Brien and of Chase.  On the day of the "miraculous catch" any one would have said they were very evenly matched for success in life, both intellectually and in business qualifications. In habits perhaps Chase had a little the best of O'Brien. Let us jump a decade and a half, and see the two men as they then appeared.  O'Brien is a member of the great Bonanza syndicate, one of the founders of the Nevada bank, "rich beyond the dreams of avarice," whose check, endorsed by his partner, Flood, would be considered gilt-edged paper by any bank in the world for fifty million dollars.  Presto, change.  Let us summon the superintendent of the almshouse to the stand.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Do you know where Hon. Jacob Chase, ex-member of the Legislature, resides?"</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir, he is an inmate of the poor house, of which I am in charge."</P>
006.sgm:<P>That completes the picture, and shows that <HI REND="blockindent">"There are more things in heaven and earth<LB>Than are dreamt of in thy philosophy, Horatio."</HI>
006.sgm:<P>Poor Stillman served with his command through the War, and lay down at last to pleasant dreams under the clear skies of Utah.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A GROUP OF WAR GOVERNORS--THE GREAT BULKHEAD SCHEME--DOWNEY KNOCKS IT ON THE HEAD--DISCOVERY OF THE TREMENDOUSLY RICH COMSTOCK LEDGE--THE BIG FIVE OF THE CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD</P>
006.sgm:<P>In the election of 1859, Milton S. Latham was elected Governor and John G. Downey Lieutenant-Governor.  The Legislature was to elect a United States Senator to fill the vacancy occasioned by the death of Senator Broderick, and Latham used the influence of the Gubernatorial office to secure his election, which occurred but a few weeks after he had been inaugurated as Governor.  Latham possessed qualifications to make him remarkably successful in politics in a new State, but he had traits which would have remanded him speedily and permanently to private life in an old and settled community.  He was selfish, cold-blooded and insincere. Polonius says to Laertes:  <HI REND="blockindent">"The friends thou hast and their adoption tried,<LB>Grapple them to thy soul with hooks of steel."</HI>
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006.sgm:<P>Latham, however, acted in direct opposition to this approved and righteous principle.  One secret of Broderick's success as a political leader was his unswerving loyalty to his friends.  His word was sacred.  Gwin also was true to his promises and devoted to the interests of the men who served him. There has been no instance in this State of a young man entering public life at the foot of the ladder, and rising as high and as rapidly as did Milton S. Latham.  From the humble position of clerk of the Recorder of San Francisco, he rose successively, in nine years, to that of representative in Congress, of Governor of the State and of United States Senator.  And yet as he ascended the ladder, he spurned to the ground those who had shouldered him up.  He had the faculty of winning new friends, using them, and "whistling them down the wind," after they had served his turn.  A nature abnormally fish-blooded could have succeeded in public life in a State only in which the great bulk of its population was new, floating, and receiving constant accessions from abroad.</P>
006.sgm:<P>John G. Downey succeeded Latham as Governor, and gave the State a careful, economical, business administration.  He made himself very popular with the people of San Francisco by vetoing the Bulkhead Bill.  This was a measure to hand over the whole city front of San Francisco to a corporation headed by Levi Parsons.  It would have enabled the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>A personal and public acquaintance of thirty years with Governor Downey enables me `to form an intelligent estimate of the man.  His impulses in public matters were actuated by a liberal and commendable spirit.  He was a staunch friend of the public schools, and although in. fortune `he ranked with the very rich, he was a warm advocate of every measure to restrain the greed of monopoly and to advance the interests of the working classes. In despite of the influences brought to bear upon him from the most powerful and intimate quarters, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Perhaps no better illustration of the irresistible <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>The election of 1861 elevated to the Gubernatorial chair Leland Stanford by a tremendous and unprecedented majority.  The Democratic party had been shattered by the rebellion, and although the two wings maintained an organized front, many northern Democrats went over to the Republican <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Leland Stanford was a merchant in Sacramento. He was suave in his manners, created an excellent impression wherever he went, was well endowed intellectually, and above all was a gentleman in all which that expressive word implies.  His elevation added nothing to the security of the State against secession, for the time had passed when the Sympathizers of the Confederates could do anything to disturb the loyal attitude of California towards the Union.  But the tendency of Stanford's administration was to strengthen the ties that bound us indissolubly to the cause for which our soldiers were fighting in the field.  During his administration the National Guard was reorganized and strengthened, and encouragement was extended to that remarkable spirit of patriotism which, being denied by our isolation, from venting itself in the tented field, asserted its devotion to the national cause by pouring its wealth in great and continuous volume into the treasury of the Sanitary Commission.</P>
006.sgm:<P>At the beginning of this decade rumors were abroad of the discovery of mines that promised to develop into fabulous richness.  They were said to be situated in Nevada.  By degrees the fact became <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Stanford's term expired in 1864.  In the meantime he had become interested, as one of the projectors, in the Central-Pacific railroad, an enterprise which was destined to work a revolution in our commercial relations with the East, and to enable its five founders to become prodigiously rich out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A VISIT TO THE FRONT--INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT LINCOLN--HE TELLS HOW TOM CORWIN STOPPED THE WAR--A  PATHETIC  STORY  SHOWING LINCOLN'S  SYMPATHETIC  NATURE--A  VISIT  TO  ARLINGTON CEMETERY--THE  ENDLESS  PROCESSION OF THE NATION'S DEAD</P>
006.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1864, after a severe domestic affliction, I made up my mind to take a trip to the East.  I arrived in New York at a time when the whole country was in a state of feverish excitement. General Early had crossed the Potomac with a large force, and was marching on Washington.  The price of gold had gone up to the highest notch it had reached from the time the war commenced.  So rapid had been the rise that tradesmen hardly knew what price to place on their goods, and many would rather go without sales than to exchange their wares for paper money that was so rapidly decreasing in value as compared with gold.  Early had got within three miles of Washington, and the President and the Federal officers were packing up to leave.  The forts around the capital were manned with green <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Three months after this exciting episode, I visited Washington, on my way to the front, and whilst there I had the inestimable gratification of a personal interview with the President.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Everything relating to Mr. Lincoln increases in interest as that great character recedes into history. His remarkable personality is so impressed upon the times when the fate of this nation hinged upon the result of one of the most stupendous civil wars the world ever saw, it is no wonder that even his most trifling acts and sayings should be recalled with the intensest interest.  His providential appearance on the broad stage of public affairs at a crisis in our annals that needed such a man, illustrated with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Lincoln presented to the world a new type of public man raised suddenly to the highest and most conspicuous pinnacle of responsibility.  He was the product of a manly and rugged frontier civilization, but possessed of all the finer qualities that adorn the heart and mind of the most polished societies.  His human sympathies were boundless.  He had a heart, to use a common expression, "as big as that of an ox."  Gentle, affable, tender and kind, no one could approach him without being impressed with the loveliness of his nature, and the catholic charity that governed him in thought, word and deed.  In him, truly, the quality of mercy was not strained.  He had, "in full measure and running over," those benign attributes which Beattie pictured in the one he hailed to from his inmost soul when he cried:<LB><HI REND="blockindent">"Come thou whose love, unlimited, sincere, <LB>Nor faction cools, nor enmity destroys,<LB>Who hast for misery's moans a pitying ear, <LB>And feelst with ecstasy another's joys."</HI>
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006.sgm:<P>His sense of humor was unusually acute, and his fondness for jokes has become proverbial.  As a raconteur he seasoned his stories with illustrations that were always fresh and striking; and often by an apt and happy frontier anecdote he would demolish the labored argument of an inflated adversary. No vulgar garnishment nor unclean dressing marred the wholesome relish of his humor, and the clear and pellucid flow of his wit was as devoid of murky sediment as the waters of a translucent mountain brook.<LB>I had the good fortune to meet General Baker, who introduced me to the White House, and presented me to President Lincoln.  General Baker was chief of the United States detective corps, with headquarters at the federal capital, and was an old San Francisco friend.  I found the president seated at the head of a table in his work room.  It was a large room with seats on one side of it against the wall.  These were principally occupied by plain women who had come to Washington to see the president about matters connected with their husbands, sons or brothers in the army.  He was accessible to poor and rich alike, and the supplication of the poor woman in cotton gown received the same attention as the tale of the grand lady dressed in fine attire.<LB>When he had dismissed with words of consolation a sobbing woman whose son was perhaps in trouble <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:at the front, General Baker presented me. The president arose and we went to a window, where he assumed an easy but characteristically awkward attitude. Our conversation led naturally to the war and the prospects of an early peace. Mr. Lincoln said that he had been earnestly looking for an early peace for over three years. He was ready at any time to listen to proposals, but he feared the war would have to go on to a finish.<LB>Falling into a reminiscent vein, he recounted how at the beginning of the war he had been harassed by men of the highest consequence to stop it.  It seemed as if distinguished personages, who ought to have known better, thought that all he had to do was to lift his little finger and that would end it. One day, he said, Tom Corwin, who had just arrived in Washington, rushed up to the White House, and, in a state of great agitation, asked him why he didn't stop this infernal war?  The president told him there was nothing he more desired, but he was unable to do so.  Corwin pooh-poohed the idea, and declared that all that was necessary to terminate hostilities was to have a calm and earnest talk with the Confederate leaders.  He knew them all well, and he knew that if he were furnished a train and crossed the lines he could so present the case to them that all difficulties could be speedily adjusted.<LB>"Do you seriously believe, Corwin, that you can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:bring this greatly-to-be-desired consummation about by a personal interview?"<LB>"I know I can," vehemently asseverated Corwin.<LB>The president gave Corwin the necessary order, and the sanguine peacemaker took his departure, reiterating his assurance that he would stop the war.<LB>Mr. Lincoln then recounted, in his own peculiar and inimitable way, how Corwin started to the front; how he crossed the union army's lines and approached those of the enemy covering Richmond; how he got on top of the car, and as he neared the rebel pickets waved his handkerchief and took off his hat; how he was warned by a shot to halt, but failing to do so, the admonitory shot was followed by a volley; how he yelled out that he was Tom Corwin, and wanted to see Lee and Davis and have this war stopped; how this was followed by a shower of bullets which sent him to seek shelter below; how he called to the engineer to reverse his engine; and how all this time the rebels kept peppering away at the train.  The engineer lost no lime in opening the valve to its widest and taking the back track. Corwin put himself in as small a space as possible in the most sheltered part of the car, and fortunately went unscathed through showers of bullets. As he neared Washington he ordered the engineer to slow down, and slipped off the train, thus ending his brief but lively campaign in the interest of peace.</P>
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006.sgm:<P>"Shortly after that," said the president, "I met Corwin, and jocularly asked him if he had stopped the war."<LB>"Stopped the war? Not by a long shot. It was as much as I could do to escape from stopping the durned bullets they fired at me. Those fellows are in dead earnest and mean business and after my hard experience I have concluded to let you stop the war in your own way."<LB>Mr. Lincoln said he used this incident of Corwin's to good purpose with other distinguished gentlemen who knew just how to stop the war.<LB>I took leave of the president very strongly impressed with the feeling that we had a man at the helm of the nation who would steer it through its trouble with prudence, firmness and sagacity.<LB>When we reached the corridor we met Colonel Hay, the president's private secretary. I found the Colonel communicative, and naturally drifted into remarks about the easy accessibility of Mr. Lincoln to a class of people who had not always had free entree to the White House. Colonel Hay said that the president was actuated by the principle that the poor and friendless should have easy opportunity of laying their complaints or grievances before him; the rich and influential had numerous ways of reaching the presidential ear, whilst the plain people, however meritorious their cause, had nobody but themselves to plead it. He then related a most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:touching and pathetic incident in point that had occurred the previous winter.<LB>A thinly clad and bedraggled little girl, showing in her looks and dress poverty and distress, was noticed one day to be anxiously waiting in the corridor.  The Colonel's attention was attracted to her by her wan face, her scared and shrinking manner, and the signs of intense anxiety that were apparent in all her movements.  She was among the first comers in the morning and remained there for several hours.  Seeing her in a flood of tears after her long and anxious waiting, the private secretary asked her what the trouble was.  She said she wanted to see Mr. Lincoln very much.  At that moment the president was ascending the front staircase, and Colonel Hay, pointing him out, told her that that was Mr. Lincoln coming.  As the president passed along the little girl pulled his coat-tail in a scared and halfhearted way.  Mr. Lincoln's tall form bent, and he looked beamingly down upon the little bundle of rags and humanity and kindly asked what he could do for her.<LB>"I was told," she said, "that you were President Lincoln, and I have walked all the way from Philadelphia to ask you to save my poor father's life."<LB>The interest of the chief magistrate was at once aroused, and taking the little waif by the hand he led her into his room, and asked her to tell him all about how he could save her father's life.  She told <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:the story in her own artless way.  Her father was in the army, and for some breach of military law he had been court-martialed and sentenced to death. Her mother was prostrated when the awful news reached her, and some of the poor girl's friends told her that if she could see the president he might save his life.  For want of means she had trudged afoot through the snow and sleet to the capital, and now she begged good Mr. Lincoln to pardon her dear papa.<LB>Mr. Lincoln was sensibly affected by the child's earnest appeal, and questioned her as to her father's name and the regiment he belonged to, taking notes of her answers.  He found out in the course of his examination of the girl that her father had fallen asleep while on picket duty at a very important outpost, and the offence was deemed grave enough at that critical juncture to warrant a court-martial to make a striking example of the offender.<LB>After the president had got from the little girl all she knew about her father's case, he beamed upon her with that tender and compassionate face of his, and mused aloud upon the touching scene:<LB>"Poor child," said he, "you have no influential friends to plead for you--no congressman, no senator, but have bravely faced the inclemency of the season in scant apparel, and trudged all the way from Philadelphia to Washington to intercede with me for your father's life.  And you had faith in me, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:that if you could only see me and tell your touching story, I would save his life.  And I will."<LB>He wrote a note to Secretary Stanton and sent it to the war office by Colonel Hay, who had been a silent witness of the whole pathetic scene.  In due time the offender was pardoned and returned to the ranks.<LB>"You may rest assured," said Colonel Hay, "that the little one went home in very different shape from the way she had come.  We all took a lively interest in the brave child and raised quite a purse for her before we sent her warmly clad on her way rejoicing."<LB>"And this," pursued Colonel Hay, with feeling, "is only one of many incidents that are constantly occurring here to show how kind and tender a nature presides over the destinies of this country in the midst of a merciless war."<LB>After a visit to the front, I returned to Washing ton, and accepted an invitation from Gen. D. W. C. Thompson, of San Francisco, who had joined Reed's California command, and seen a good deal of hard service in Virginia, to ride with him to the new national cemetery that had been laid out in the beautiful grounds of the Lees, at Arlington Heights. Although this cemetery had only been opened to the burial of deceased soldiers for a few months it was already populously inhabited by the dead heroes who had fallen in battle or died in the numerous military <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>THE NICARAGUA CANAL--PROSPEROUS SAN FRANCISCO--A TRIP TO  THE  SANDWICH ISLANDS--THRILLING ADVENTURE OF MME. ANNA BISHOP, THE DIVA --NATIVE  SUPERSTITIONS--PRAYING  AN  ENEMY TO DEATH--A MODEL PLANTATION</P>
006.sgm:<P>I returned to California by the Nicaragua route. The San Juan river was navigated by a class of small steamboats, which were both sunsafe and uncomfortable.  They made the trip to the Castillo rapids, where a portage of a couple of miles brought Us to a larger and more comfortable steamer designed to navigate the lake, which is sometimes so rough that frail vessels would be too unsafe to venture upon it.  The question of constructing a ship canal by this route to connect the two oceans was the subject of a good deal of speculation even at that early time.  The route had been already surveyed, and the feasibility of building an interoceanic canal was admitted by the highest engineering authorities.  In making the trip from Graytown to San Juan del Sur, no insuperable difficulty presented itself to the lay mind to interfere with the successful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>The lake is infested by the most enormous sharks, and these hideous monsters all make their way through the rapids from the Atlantic Ocean.  I recollected, when I saw specimens of these voracious creatures sailing in the lake, that the members of the Gordon association, when they reached Realejo in 1849, told thrilling stories about their narrow escapes from the man-eating sharks that had attacked them even in their small boats in the river and the lake while they were making the transit.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Lake Nicaragua is a beautiful sheet of fresh water, 110 miles long by an average of 40 miles wide, and of immense depth.  As its surface is about 1100 feet higher than the level of the Pacific Ocean, and its distance from that ocean is only about 15 miles at Virgin Bay, it will involve the nicest engineerIng skill to connect the canal with the ocean so that it will be practicable for vessels.  This will, of course, have to be done by a system of locks at very short intervals.</P>
006.sgm:<P>It is a humiliating fact that our Government has shown itself so dilatory in coming to the aid of this great work.  There is no excuse for this indifference to a project which would operate so prodigiously to the commercial benefit of the nation, and which would so increase the capacity of our navy as to augment its effective strength at least three times what it is under existing conditions.  The hesitating policy of the Government towards the Nicaragua canal is inexplicable upon rational principles, and when we consider that that policy may result in the abrogation altogether of the concession to an American company, it becomes an unpardonable crime.  Great Britain, or any of the other first-class powers, under similar circumstances, would have given the project such encouragement <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>On reaching San Francisco I found all kinds of business prospering.  The immense wealth poured into the city from the Comstock was beginning to show itself in its growth and in the improved style of its architecture. The demand for machinery for the mines had increased investment in foundries and all kinds of iron works, giving remunerative employment to a large number of skilled and unskilled laborers.  Every other business was favorably affected by the tremendous requirements of the Comstock mines and the hundreds of other new districts which prospectors had opened to exploitation; and I doubt if San Francisco has ever seen in her whole history five more prosperous years than the lustrum that followed the development of the mines at Virginia City, say from 1863 to 1868.</P>
006.sgm:<P>In the beginning of 1866, the steamer Ajax was advertised to sail for Honolulu, and as a number of my friends had secured passage on her, I made up my mind to join them.  When we got to sea, we found that we had a very fine and congenial set of passengers with us.  Mme. Anna Bishop, the great diva, was one of them, and we all discovered her to be a most pleasant and interesting travelling companion.  She had traveled all over the world, was familiar with several languages, had fine conversational powers and entertained us delightfully with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:reminiscence, anecdote and graphic description of some of the curious places she had visited.  She had been favored with the personal acquaintance of many of the most noted men of Europe, and she had a very happy faculty of sketching them in a way that enabled us to see and know them as well as she had seen and known them.  She had adopted a rule only to sing professionally, and she adhered to it pertinaciously.  Whilst we greatly enjoyed her conversation, she could have made us entirely happy if she would have only relaxed her rigid rule and delighted us with a display now and then of her wonderful vocal powers.  But she never offered to sing, and none of us were brave enough to make the request.  When we arrived in Honolulu, she gave one public concert, and sailed next day on the bark <HI REND="italics">Libelle</HI>
006.sgm: for Australia.  It was a disastrous voyage. The vessel ran on a coral reef and went to pieces. Mme. Bishop and several of the crew were for fourteen days in an open boat on the broad Pacific, suffering all the agonies from thirst, hunger, heat and their cramped condition, until they were providentially picked up by a passing vessel and carried to an Australian port.  Years afterwards I met the Madame, and she recounted to me scenes that happened in that boat which made the blood curdle. One poor fellow became crazed, and acted in so threatening a manner that he was tumbled into the sea.  Another opened a vein in his arm and sucked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Honolulu was In that unenviable business position of a city that is fast losing an industry which had raised her to commercial prosperity, and not yet in the enjoyment of the full benefits of a staple interest destined to revive her commerce and increase her wealth. Whaling had seen its best days, and sugar culture, though not in its infancy, labored under the tremendous disadvantage of an almost prohibitive tariff in its only market. Thus Honolulu was in that deplorable period of transition when her old source of prosperity was nearly gone, and her new dependence for better times was still in embryo.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Most of the business houses were conducted by Americans, and this element predominated in nearly all of the activities. The native population had been rapidly declining for a number of years. At their best the Kanakas were a people that possessed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:but little physical stamina, and the usual deteriorating effects of civilization upon an inferior race were apparent.  Their natural wants were simple and easily supplied.  Their artificial wants, however,--those acquired appetites that followed in the train of evils brought to them by their contact with the whites--and these principally of a class who were no credit to our race--stimulated them to the uncongenial task of physical labor so as to earn money to gratify their new and vicious tastes. The two processes were making sad havoc in their ranks--hard manual labor, for which they were constitutionally and from hereditary habit unfitted, and indulgence in deadly liquors and concomitant vices, which swept them off in appalling numbers.  The law seems to admit of no exception to the rule that the contact of inferior with superior races is invariably detrimental to the former.  They readily acquire and naturalize in themselves the vices of civilization, without possessing the power to absorb and practice the saving virtues of that higher order of human advancement.  The sugar planters of the Hawaiian Islands were in the trying position of being able to get but unremunerative prices for their products, and of being compelled to work their plantations with a class of labor that was unreliable, unwilling and rapidly diminishing. There were, however, signs of a change for the better, and the leading business men of Honolulu <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the natives had, after fifty years of missionary effort, been brought into the Christian fold, they still adhered to some of their superstitions, and would have readily relapsed into their former state of idolatry if left to themselves. The resident physician of the Queen's hospital told me that hundreds of instances had come under his experience of natives who, when they felt that death was approaching, would bring out from some secret place a fetich or small idol, and cling to it with all the devotional fervor of a Christian clinging to the cross in his last moments. The Koa tree grows on the high mountains. It is a costly wood, and is susceptible of the finest polish. The natives prize it as possessing supernatural virtues, and to be buried in a Koa wood coffin is to he assured of a happy passage to the Kanaka paradise. It is seriously said that natives have been known to go up into the mountains and give up the ghost on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Another heritage of their early superstitions is the faith they have in the power of a certain class of native doctors to compass the death of any person whom they are hired to pray into eternity. These doctors practice all sorts of barbaric incantations, and their ignorant dupes have complete faith in their power to dispense the favors of fortune or the reverses of calamity to whomsoever they please.  A curious anecdote illustrative of the hold which this superstition has upon the ignorant natives was related to me by James Price, a leading butcher of Honolulu.  His slaughter house was located well out of town on the Waikiki road, and adjoining it was a native house, in which one Kapeana and his family lived.  Price had several litters of pigs at his slaughter-house which he was raising to sell as toothsome shotes to his customers.  But no shotes materialized at his shop, so he instituted an inquiry with the result that Kapeana was in the habit of enticing the piggies into his yard and making away with them. Price was justly indignant at the loss of his porkers, and going to Kapeana in great rage, accused him of the theft, and declared that he would forthwith go to doctor Kanina and give him a fee of one hundred dollars to pray Kapeana  to  death.  Kapeana  became  greatly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>I availed myself of an opportunity which offered of sailing to the Island of Kauai and visiting the largest and most productive sugar plantation in the Kingdom.  The Princeville plantation is situated in a beautiful valley buttressed by lofty mountains that rise for several thousand feet almost sheer into the clouds, which are constantly condensing their moisture into tiny rivulets, that look like silver threads as they descend sinuously into the valley and supply grateful irrigation to the thirsty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:soil of the immense plantation.  At the mouth of the valley is the little harbor of Hanalei; and when we landed the whole population had gathered at the warehouse to receive the supplies which our little packet had brought from Honolulu.  Princeville plantation was started by a Scotchman named Wylie, who was, during the reigns of the third and fourth Kamehamehas, Prime Minister of the Kingdom. He was a wise counselor, a shrewd statesman, and an enterprising subject.  The sugar mill was an immense affair.  The machinery had all been sent out from Glasgow, and worked to the entire satisfaction of its energetic and critical owner. Its capacity was great enough not only to grind all the cane of the immense plantation, but also that of numerous small planters who held leases of tracts in the valley.  I can imagine no more beautiful sight than the valley presented from the porch of the plantation mansion.  Miles of tasselling cane, gracefully curving to the breeze, in a beautiful valley, "shut out by Alpine hills from the rude world," formed a picture which remains indelibly photographed upon the memory.  All nature had seemed to shed its choicest blessings upon this splendid home and its rich surroundings.  But a dark shadow of gloom  and sadness hovered over it.  Minister Wylie had died a few years before without issue. The estate descended to a nephew in Brooklyn, New York, and he had come out and taken possession of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>"MARK  TWAIN"  DOING  THE  ISLANDS--HOW  HE  DISCHARGED HIMSELF FROM THE "CALL"--MARK AS A JOKER--COULD GIVE BUT NOT TAKE--HIS INTENDED  FATHER-IN-LAW  MAKES  AN  AWKWARD PROPOSITION--HE  DISPOSES  OF  IT  HANDSOMELY--ORIGIN OF THE RECIPROCITY TREATY--A NEWSPAPER DRENCHED TO DEATH</P>
006.sgm:<P>On my return to Honolulu I was astonished to find that "Mark Twain" had arrived a few days before.  He was in San Francisco when I left holding the position of reporter on the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm:<P>"How in thunder, Mark," I asked him when we met, "does it happen that you have come here?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Well, you see," said Mark, in his peculiar drawl, "I waited for six months for you fellows to discharge me--for I knew you did not want me,--and getting tired of waiting, I discharged myself."</P>
006.sgm:<P>There was "more truth than poetry" in Mark's observation about our desire to get rid of him; for, however valuable his services had proven to a Nevada paper, where he might give full play to his fertile imagination and dally with facts to suit his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>"Oh, y-a-a-s.  I know.  But the coast is good enough for me."  And that would end it.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Well, Mark," I asked, "what do you expect to do here?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Oh, I'm all right.  The Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
006.sgm:<P>True enough, that was the gist of Mark's mission, and he wrote &amp; series of letters to the <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
006.sgm: which attracted the widest attention.  They were picturesque, graphically descriptive, abounded in felicitous humor, exhibited a novel and penetrating study of the native character, and displayed an acuteness of foresight as to the value of the islands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:to the United States as a naval outpost on the Pacific, which was instinct with prophetic acumen. They were not only universally read in California, but they arrested the attention of Eastern men of letters, and paved the way to his engagement as the correspondent of the New York <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
006.sgm:<P>Whilst Mark delighted in jokes at other people's expense, he was unusually thin-skinned when he himself was made the subject of the play.  He never fully forgave his friends in Virginia City who presented him with a silver-mounted Meerschaum pipe, which he ascertained the next day to he made out of common clay, the mountings being fashioned out of tin.  At the risk of his displeasure, however, I will here record a story about him which was greatly relished by his California friends when it first got out.  Mark was referred to her father by his wife when he proposed and the old gentleman said:</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Mr. Clemens, I have only known you for a short time, and I certainly am favorably impressed with you from what I have seen.  But this is a very serious matter with me.  You know a great part of your life has been spent in those wild places on the far Pacific coast, and your reputation there, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"Of course I could," said Mark, in all seriousness.  "I could refer you to Joe Goodman, of the Virginia City <HI REND="italics">Enterprise</HI>
006.sgm:, Jerry Driscoll, a successful stock broker on the Comstock, General McComb, of the <HI REND="italics">Alta</HI>
006.sgm: or Mr. George Ed. Barnes of the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm:<P>And the old gentleman was so struck with the novelty and candor of the humorist's answer that he did.</P>
006.sgm:<P>I found that an indisposition from which I was suffering almost entirely disappeared while I was in the Islands; but when I got back to San Francisco it returned.  This caused me to hastily make up my mind to dispose of my interest in the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm: and go back to Honolulu.  It was a foolish resolution to come to, for my trouble was not serious. I had been at the head of the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm: from its foundation, and its business had prospered immensely.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:Ten years of my life had been spent in building it up, and I knew that it was destined to become, with careful management, one of the great dailies of the country.  I have only regretted this ill-considered step once, and that has been all my life from the time I took the rash resolution.  However, the die was cast, I severed my connection with the concern and returned to Honolulu. I had brought a small printing outfit with me from San Francisco, and finding that the time hung heavily on my hands, I set up my press and started a small paper named <HI REND="italics">The Daily Hawaiian Herald</HI>
006.sgm:.  This was the first daily journal ever issued in the Islands, and its reception was all I could wish. Henry Hamilton, with whom I started the Calaveras <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
006.sgm: in 1851, came down from Los Angeles and joined me in the publication of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
006.sgm:.  Business was so greatly depressed in Los Angeles at that time that he discontinued his paper there-- <HI REND="italics">The Star</HI>
006.sgm:,--locked up his office and came to the Islands.  I had no expectation that a venture of this character could be made profitable in Honolulu in the condition in which business then was; but I believed that the little sheet would secure patronage enough to meet its running expenses, and that it would afford me congenial employment whilst my health was recuperating.  I had, however, another and more important object in view in launching this little sheet.  I ascertained during my first visit to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The policy of the paper was therefore directed to spreading and intensifying the pro-American sentiment, to strenuously setting forth advantages that would accrue to the United States by a treaty of reciprocity, and to discouraging by every argument possible the growth of the pro-British feeling.  In order that the official relations of our Government and Hawaii should become closer, and that the interest of the United States should become more pronounced in a policy favorable to the Islands, the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
006.sgm: strongly advocated the appointment of a Resident Minister to the little Kingdom, and great numbers of the papers in which these views were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>It so happened that a discovery was opportunely made and energetically handled which had the effect of opening the eyes of the Government at Washington to the need of some higher representation of our country at the islands than a mere commercial consulate.  At the time when whaling was in the zenith of its prosperity the great number of American ships engaged in that business, and virtually making the Islands their only place of rendezvous on the Pacific, impelled Congress to establish and maintain two marine hospitals--one at Honolulu, the other at Lahaina.  Large sums of money were yearly appropriated for the support of these institutions.  Notwithstanding however, the whaling business had, in the meantime, immensely deteriorated, and American seamen wanting hospital care had become a thing of the past, the appropriations for the support of these benevolent institutions had fallen off but slightly.  A newspaper investigation showed that there were only one or two patients at the Honolulu and none at the Lahaina hospital. Yet the official report showed that the retinue of stewards, attendants and physicians was kept up as of old, and the supplies for the suffering patients had but slightly diminished.  The presumption was apparent that the Government was being made the victim of a shameful job, and soon after the exposures <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Had it not been for an extraordinary accident, I might have continued the publication of <HI REND="italics">The Daily Hawaiian Herald</HI>
006.sgm: until the revival of business prosperity consequent upon the operation of the Reciprocity Treaty, and thus established another permanent and profitable newspaper.  The office of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
006.sgm:<P>"You'll see when you get there," and this was all the explanation I could get out of him.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I hurried down town believing that a fire had started in my office and communicated to the store beneath.  On arriving at the building, I pushed through a crowd and entered the clothing store. It was a sight "for to behold."  Everything in it was afloat.  Boxes of shirts, stacks of hats, packages of shoes, boxes of paper collars, boots, clothing of all kinds--everything floating and soaking in several feet of water.  I realized at once how it had happened.  The water company was in the habit of shutting off the water whenever it suited them, and turning it on again at their pleasure.  When my Kanaka pressman took the forms to the washing trough Saturday afternoon, he turned on the faucet.  The water was not running, and he left the cock open till the running water would attract his attention.  In the meantime he forgot all about it, locked up the office and went home.  The water was presumably turned on soon afterwards, and the open cock let it run in a voluminous stream from Saturday night till Monday morning, flooding my first-floor friend in good shape.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Mr. Greenbaum," said I, "how do you account for all this?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"I don't know nothing about it.  All I know is that my goods are all damaged, and that I shall hold you responsible.  You must take them off my hands at the invoice price."</P>
006.sgm:<P>I said if that was the case, I should expect him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:to sort out the damaged goods, and those that were not so should be set aside. I called in &amp; friend to act as adjuster in the case, with the result that I had a great quantity of all sorts of goods thrown on my hands. I went to the leading auction house of the town and made arrangements to sell the damaged goods under the hammer at a time sufficiently remote so that I could thoroughly advertise the sale throughout the islands. For the succeeding three weeks the <HI REND="italics">Hawaiian Herald was a marvel of special advertising and puffery.</HI>
006.sgm:  The leading editorials were either learned dissertations upon the evolution of the modern shirt from suggestion of the ancient tunic or tabard or hauberk; or disquisitions upon the revolutions in head-gear from the time that hats were first made out of a firm fabric by an ingenious English manufacturer, in 1510, to the present century when the bell-crowned-teaser was introduced by Genet and improved upon until it evoluted into the stylish silk tile of the present day.  Everything that was to be auctioned off at that sale was the subject of comment in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
006.sgm:, and the paper was distributed broadcast over the Islands.  The result was that the auctioneer declared he never saw such a crowd before at an auction in Honolulu.  People had come from every island in the Kingdom to get bargains, and the sale was a howling success in every respect.  I got out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>My ardor to give the people of Honolulu a "live" daily newspaper was considerably dampened by this unfortunate episode--indeed, I might say that it yielded to a hydropathic treatment that chilled me to the marrow.  I sold my printing outfit for what it would fetch, disposed of my carriage and horses, sent to San Francisco for funds, paid off my debts, packed my belongings and took passage on the first packet that sailed for the Golden Gate.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>BACK  IN  THE  EDITORIAL  HARNESS--THE  COMSTOCK LEDGE--THE  RUSH  TO  WHITE  PINE--A  DISASTROUS NEWSPAPER VENTURE ABOVE THE CLOUDS</P>
006.sgm:<P>Whilst editing the <HI REND="italics">Territorial Enterprise</HI>
006.sgm: in 1868 for Joe Goodman, who was making the grand tour, I became impressed with the extent and richness of the mines on the Comstock ledge.  They had been continuously worked on a colossal scale for seven or eight years, by processes that were being improved every day, and yet the yield from them was constantly increasing in volume.  Some of the old mines would for a time fall off in their output, but the dips, spurs and angles of the great ledge would be followed, new and richer deposits than those before worked would be found, and up would go the quotations on the stock board.  Thus the feverish excitement was kept up from year to year until it reached its climax in the seventies, when the Bonanza mines turned the heads of the coolest people on the coast.  Stimulated by the wonderful riches developed on the Comstock, experienced miners were scattered all over the State of Nevada prospecting for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I had not been long in the editorial chair of the <HI REND="italics">Enterprise</HI>
006.sgm:<P>In my position, as editor of the <HI REND="italics">Enterprise</HI>
006.sgm:, I was in the way of getting the best and most reliable information from the district.  We had special correspondents there who sent us glowing accounts of the mines on Chloride Flat, and dwelt especially on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:the immense wealth developed in the Eberhardt mines.  One of the five owners of the Eberhardt claims I knew well, and his letters confirmed even the most extravagant reports we had received from the district.  I was clean gone.  The White Pine fever had taken full possession of me. I went to San Francisco, sold property there near the Baldwin Hotel that would now be a large fortune to anyone, purchased an elaborate newspaper outfit, most of which was in Virginia City, and started for the new El Dorado. When I arrived in Virginia City, I found that the White Pine fever had reached the epidemic stage there, and that many of the old Comstockers were getting ready to move to the scene of the new discoveries. I had made arrangements with the mad nates of the Central Pacific railroad for transportation from Reno to Elko.  I had hard work to accomplish this.  The rivalry between the Central and the Union Pacific railway companies to complete as much of the road as possible before they met in Utah was very great. It was not so much that the Government subsidy of $36,000 per mile was an inducement as it was that each road desired to have its terminus at as great a distance from its initial point as possible.  Both roads were putting forth their greatest efforts to push forward the work of construction, and the Central Pacific had sent to the front every possible car it could spare to expedite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Announcements had been made all over the coast by the publishers of small newspapers that they intended to remove their concerns to White Pine, and I concluded that if it was generally known that I was taking a very large establishment to Hamilton it would discourage them, and that I would have the field to myself.  So I issued a prospectus that had the desired effect. My outfit consisted of a large power press and four or five job presses, with the types to publish a large-sized daily and the material for a complete job office. Arrived at Elko I hired teams to take all this machinery, at an enormous figure, to Hamilton, a distance of two hundred miles from Elko. I brought with me also all the men necessary to get out the paper and work the job office. Arrived at Hamilton, I purchased a lot and put up a building. Lumber cost $400 a thousand there at that time, and very inferior lumber it was at that.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Hamilton and Treasure Hill were already alive with people, and the arrivals were constant and numerous. The winter was setting in and the weather was intensely cold at that altitude. The peaks were covered with snow, and the white mantle was getting lower down every day. Treasure Hill is about 1,000 feet higher than Hamilton, and the altitude at Hamilton is about 10,300 feet. Business in all lines was at high pressure, and '49 prices were the rule.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The first number of the <HI REND="italics">Inland Empire</HI>
006.sgm: --that was the ambitious title I gave the paper--was ready for the press, and was eagerly waited for by crowds of people who blocked up the approaches to the office. I made arrangements to run a pony express to the nearest telegraph station, fifty miles away, and thus the Inland <HI REND="italics">Empire</HI>
006.sgm: came out with all the latest news. Everything went along swimmingly, and it looked as if my venture would prove a complete success in every way.  As, however, everything depended upon the character and extent of the mines, I took the earliest opportunity that presented itself to make a careful personal inspection of them. The Eberhardt series and the other best known mines were situated at Treasure Hill. Men were at work in all directions sinking shafts and prospecting. The chief mine of the Eberhardt company was called the Belle something, and that was the first I visited. We descended to the "silver chamber." That was as far as the company had got down.  The chamber had been yielding the richest chlorides yet found in the district. It had been worked into the shape of a square of about forty feet at each side and perhaps thirty feet from floor to ceiling.  This was indeed a wonderful chamber.  The walls, the ceiling and the floor were composed of chloride so soft that it could be cut with a knife Eke cheese.  One <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The new paper was well received everywhere, and the business of the office was as great as we could handle. This continued through the winter and well along into spring.  The camp had been visited with two epidemics--one of pneumonia, the other of smallpox--from which many of the large number attacked succumbed.  This was the first serious cause for discouragement which we were compelled to experience.</P>
006.sgm:<P>All at once the Eberhardt company closed down their most noted mines.  The silver chamber was hermetically sealed.  New people ceased to arrive. There were innumerable mines to sell, but no buyers. The output of bullion from the mills began to fall off.  Small smelters increased in number, and as the leading silver mines were shut up the miners turned their attention to smelting the base metal ores that abounded in certain localities.  The bars they produced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The rival newspaper--for there was a rival newspaper in Hamilton as there is everywhere--seemed to be weathering the storm in good enough shape. But then it is not every editor that can run a newspaper, a whiskey mill and a gambling establishment at the same time.  This feat, however, J. W. Forbes accomplished with ease.  Alter writing up his newspaper he would adjourn to his saloon, run that in lively fashion for a while, and then go into his faro rooms and see how his banks were getting along.  Next morning his paper would come out inveighing loudly against the growing immorality of Hamilton, how the vile passion for gambling and drinking was increasing, and calling upon the authorities to take effective steps to purify the moral atmosphere of the place.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>When Forbes concluded to leave Virginia City for White Pine, he was publishing <HI REND="italics">The Safeguard</HI>
006.sgm:<P>When the <HI REND="italics">Inland Empire</HI>
006.sgm: suspended, I hied me to San Francisco, which kept on growing and developing into a large and beautiful city. I started in again at the foot of the ladder, and began to climb. The <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm: was now in the hands of Pickering &amp; Finch, who were also publishing the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
006.sgm:. Two of the original founders of the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
006.sgm: had died, the other had gone to Australia.  Henry George, the great political economist, had just heated the editorial chair of an Oakland paper, and the proprietor offered me the place. I took it temporarily, and yielded it to W. W. Foote, who, had he chosen to remain in the newspaper profession, would have made as great a name for himself as a journalist as he had achieved eminence as a lawyer.  But he was wise in his generation, and was not long in exchanging <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The Legislature of 1871 had to elect a United States Senator. There were a number of prominent candidates whose friends made the session memorable by charges and counterchcarges of bribery and corruption.  It looked to an outsider as if it was not the longest pole, but the longest purse, that would knock down the Senatorial persimmon.  Eugene Casserly was elected; and General Volney E. Howard, who was one of the defeated candidates, came to San Francisco with blood in his eyes.  He declared that he would expose the shameful corruptions and bargains and sales that had taken place in the Legislature.  Mr. Sam Butterworth and others of his friends tried to restrain him, and fin.ally hit upon the plan of buying an evening newspaper for him, and controlling him in his ebullitions till his indignation had subsided.  A little evening paper, named the <HI REND="italics">Dispatch</HI>
006.sgm:, which was not a financial success, was purchased, and I was selected as the associate of the General. He was kept well in hand for a couple of weeks, when he received a dispatch to go at once to Los Angeles on an affair of great urgency. When he started he left with me a box full of editorials to publish while he was gone. I looked over the articles, and there was not one that would make less than three columns.  Indeed, they were all essays <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I spent the winter of 1871-72 in San Luis Obispo, and I met there for the first time the late Judge Anson Bronson.  He had started overland for Sacramento to put in his claim to the Governor for the appointment of District Judge of Los Angeles county to fill the unexpired term of Judge Morrison, who had just died. But when he had got as far as San Luis on his journey the stages were compelled to cease running. The rain had come down in torrents and the roads were impracticable. The Judge knew before he started that he had a competitor in Judge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A VERY SPANISH TOWN--JUDGE PABLO DE LA GUERRA--A  SYMPOSIUM  OF  BON  VIVANTS--VENTURA, YOUNGEST OF THE TRAIN OF SUNNY SISTERS</P>
006.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara in 1872 was a quaint Mexican town. Its modern improvements on American architectural lines were only sufficient to bring out in strong relief and striking contrast the Mexican character that adhered to it.  A noble building, the Santa Barbara College, which owed its existence to that enterprising and public-spirited citizen, Col. W. W. Hollister, was the finest and most pretentious structure of the new era.  But the town, as then seen from the bay, was essentially a picture of the past.  Its population, too, was more largely composed of the old native Californians than that of any other community to the north, with the exception, perhaps, of San Luis Obispo.  The old Mission building, which looked down with its Moresque tower and imposing facade upon the little city it had held under its wings for nearly a century, was then, as it is now, the most conspicuous and best preserved of all the monuments of the time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Who can think of Santa Barbara without recalling to mind Don Pablo de la Guerra, the representative, <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
006.sgm:, with Don Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, of the stalwart race and magnificent caballeros who represented all that was good and worthy and manly of the native Californians in the ante American period.  I see him now, as I saw him in the State Senate at one of its early sessions, replying to a fresh and impertinent newcomer, who thought there should be a certain change in the constitution which protected in the manner of assessment the rights of the ranch owners.  The obnoxious individual had contemptuously said, with a disdainful flourish, that we should not consider the wants or the desires of the native population in our legislation.  Don Pablo arose rn his seat, not with fire in his eyes, but his ample stature and native dignity seemed to increase as he looked with a mien of regretful pity upon the "smart" young fellow he was about to annihilate.  "Mister President," said he, with a touch of the Castilian accent that gave it resonance and melody, "we are here to pass laws for the people of the whole State, but my friend thinks there should be exceptions, notwithstanding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The only hotel worthy of the name in Santa Barbara in 1872 was the St. Charles.  It was kept by M. Raffour, a French cook who gloried in the reputation of being the Brillat-Savary of the coast. He superintended his own kitchen, leaving the rest of the hotel to the management of his very capable and interesting wife. The fame of Raffour's <HI REND="italics">cuisine</HI>
006.sgm: was deserved, and a number of choice spirits, gourmets and connoisseurs assembled there every Thursday afternoon to discuss the rare <HI REND="italics">mets</HI>
006.sgm: prepared by the famous <HI REND="italics">chef</HI>
006.sgm:.  The building is still extant.  It is a two-story adobe, with a grand hispaniolic porch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>E. D. Boust, of happy memory, who was publishing the Santa Barbara <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
006.sgm:, came to me one day, and as the result of the interview I proceeded next morning to San Buenaventura, where I remained for several months.  The old mission church there and the mission orchard were objects of unceasing interest to me, and I never tired tracing out the miles of acequias which the early Fathers had constructed out of a cement that defied the ravages of time as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I took a great fancy to Ventura county, which was then known to be as rich in oil as she was affluent in agricultural promise, and when I was called to deliver the Fourth of July oration, I dropped into poetry at the end of my address, and paid the following idyllic tribute to the favored county:</P>
006.sgm:<P>VENTURA <HI REND="blockindent">A zephyr, gently rising from the West,<LB>The shady oak and tall date-palm caressed,<LB>While, like a lake, the sea's unrippled face<LB>An air serene gave to the distant space:<LB>Above, around, beneath, a genial glow<LB>Soothed all my cares and temper'd woe.<LB>To thee, Ventura, thus my harp I tune,<LB>And sing thy matchless fields of flowing grain;<LB>Thy mountains, rivers, and thy vales, which soon<LB>Some happier bard may chant in loftier strain.<LB>But first, a tribute to thy clime I bring,<LB>Whose breezy airs in balmy currents flow,</HI>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Breathing a freshness of perennial Spring,<LB>And flushing cheeks with health's empurpl'd<LB>glow.<LB>Thy feet bedewed by Ocean's ceaseless spray--<LB>Thy soil rich-moistened from his liquid breast--<LB>Thy hills majestic, looming far away,<LB>And towering each above the other's crest:<LB>Yet gently sloping as they reach the plain<LB>Broad, vast and em'rald to the restless shore,<LB>Where fertile fields blend strangely with the main,<LB>And echo back the sea's tumultuous roar.<LB>Nor those, Ventura, jewels of thy bounds,<LB>Thy silver streams, soft-stealing to the sea,<LB>And gladd'ning wide thy people's teeming grounds,<LB>Should `scape the Muse's gentle eulogy.<LB>Though Santa Clara on her buoyant breast<LB>Bear neither steamer swift nor bellied sail--<LB>No Palinurus, steering from the West,<LB>Seeks shelter here from Neptune's threat'ning<LB>gale,--<LB>Yet grandly on she flows through brake and dell,<LB>Irriguous wide in many a sinuous line,<LB>And Ceres sees with joy her banks o'erswell,<LB>While Bacchus thanks her for his certain vine.<LB>And there Vertumnus and Pomona, too,<LB>Like timid lovers shrinking to the wood,<LB>With bosky groves they shade the open view,<LB>And gather freshness from the swelling flood:</HI>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">See where their juicy fruits abundant trend,<LB>Or hang in clusters from the rustic arm;<LB>Here North and South their sweetest treasures<LB>blend,<LB>And equal thrive the pine and stately palm.<LB>The opposites of Nature's countless germs<LB>Together bloom and peaceful shade the<LB>ground,--<LB>There Tropic fruits, here Hyperborean ferns<LB>Entrance the eye and grace the space around.<LB>Arcadian scene! is there no lesson here,<LB>From Nature drawn, appealing to the heart,<LB>And teaching man, proud man, the truth austere<LB>That each but atom is of one great part?<LB>What though we yearn toward our mother State?<LB>What though we rankle at that dreary past?<LB>One thought alone should repress every hate--<LB>We're of one country and one kind, at last.<LB>The passing storm may blast the ripening ear--<LB>The nation suffer long a single crime--<LB>The trembling earth bring many a bitter tear;<LB>But passions, ills and wrongs give way to<LB>Time.<LB>Enough of this.  Ventura's views I sing:<LB>From this tall mount I see her pastures grand,<LB>Her sweet-tuned birds their notes around me ring,<LB>And swell in cadence with the prosp'ring land.</HI>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Behold where late the Native casa stood,<LB>And round its low, tiled porch the listless throng<LB>Insouciant lay, or, else, in livelier mood,<LB>Stept to the lute's trill thrum and measured<LB>song;<LB>Their aimless life they doze and dance away--<LB>Their herds and flocks the only wealth they<LB>prize,--<LB>Whilst Nature, smiling, spreads her grand display<LB>In vain before their soft, untempted eyes.<LB>Though kindred soil fill the adjoining space,<LB>And Nature's bounteous gifts flow equal round,<LB>Behold what glorious fruits in plenty grace<LB>The labors of the bold, progressive race<LB>Whose cultured toils exploit the pregnant<LB>ground.<LB>O, Labor, sire of Commerce and of Art,<LB>I sing thy praise with all a votary's power--<LB>Justice and thee no villain hand can part,<LB>And Freedom claimed thee at thy natal hour.<LB>The long probation of Oppression's chains,<LB>Which Igu'rance forged around thy youthful<LB>limbs,<LB>Is passed, at length, and on our hills and plains,<LB>In manly pride thy new-born life begins.<LB>Farewell, Ventura, youngest of the train<LB>Of sunny sisters on our Southern shore,</HI>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I may not sound thy praises here again,<LB>Nor with thy grandeurs teach my Muse to soar;<LB>Yet, still with rapture to thy groves I'll turn--<LB>To where thy corn curves pluming to the wind,--<LB>To where thy soft repose may bid me learn<LB>The pleasures of a calm, contented mind.</HI>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A GLIMPSE OF THE LOS ANGELES OF TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO</P>
006.sgm:<P>In August, 1872, I reached Los Angeles.  Its population numbered about five thousand, and its business centre was Temple Block.  There were quite a number of fine modern store buildings within a short radius of that block.  The Temple building at that time was considered quite an imposing structure, and so it was by comparison with the others. Downey Block was another notable structure.  The old court house was first built by Don Juan Temple for a market house, and its style of architecture was after the order of Essex Market, in New York. South of the court house there was no business structure of any note. The few stores below Court Street, on Main, were either in adobes or on-story frames. Henne, the brewer, however, had erected a two-story brick building at the southwest corner of Main and Third, which is still there; and the grocer, Mr. Leck, had erected another brick store with a dancing and assembly hall on the east side of Main, between Second and Third.  The nicest residences in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Pio Pico, the last of the Mexican Governors, had put up a fine large hotel opposite the Plaza, and named it after himself.  For the time this was, in- deed, a formidable building, and, under the capable management of Senor Cuyas, it was for years the leading hotel of Los Angeles.  After leaving the plaza and passing the old church, one entered Se&ntilde;oratown, and here, indeed, was a well-preserved picture of the ancient pueblo of "la Reina de los Angeles." It was Mexican all over. The adobe house flourished there in its most formidable, as well as its most contracted shape, from the great rectangular building, with its ample <HI REND="italics">patio</HI>
006.sgm: in the centre, to the hut of one or two rooms with the evidence apparent of an indefinite amount of filth and squalor. To cross the plaza and enter this ancient part of Los Angeles was like stepping from an American town into a small pueblo in Guadalajara or Sinaloa.  The English tongue was as foreign from the speech that one would hear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Generally, in speaking of the Los Angeles of twenty-five years ago, it is alluded to as a small Mexican town.  It was, and it was not.  North of the plaza it was; south of that point it was a vigor- our American city sloughing off as rapidly as possible the cumbersome relics of its old civilization.</P>
006.sgm:<P>On the hill where the beautiful Court House now stands was a fine, large school-house of modern design. It was the high school in a double sense. It could be seen from all parts of the city, as it was upon a much higher eminence than that which the Court House now occupies, for the hill was cut down considerably before the foundations for that edifice were laid.  With two or three exceptions, Spring street, on the west side, from Temple to Franklin, was occupied by adobes.  Henry Hamilton published for many years the Star newspaper (first started in 1851 by Lewis, McElroy &amp; Rand, and edited by E. Gould Buffum) in an adobe opposite Temple Block. On-story brick warehouses adjoined to the south, and these have since been added to and enlarged by Mrs. Jones, their present owner.  The next buildings were of adobe; then came a brick two-story <illus entity="a006-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COURT HOUSE, LOS ANGELES</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Crossing Franklin street, on the same side, were several small stores owned by Mr. Scheick, still the owner of the property, and next came John Schumacher's little adobe grocery store, now supplanted by a fine block built by his sons.  The corner of First was occupied by a small frame shanty in which the zanjero, an officer of great importance, could then be found.  Here practically the business portion of the city ended.  True, there was an adobe store where the Nadeau hotel now stands, but south <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Temple street at that time practically ended at Broadway; beyond that it was a gulch.  The city dump was on the west side of Broadway, opposite the Court House. The hill now so handsomely improved with splendid residences west of Broadway was in a state of nature, the only building upon it which I can call to mind being a little public schoolhouse devoted to colored children.  Sixth street was an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Los Angeles street did all the wholesale and jobbing traffic there was at that time, and Arcadia Block, still existing, was the centre of the heavy business. Below Requena street, on both sides, continuous lines of old on-story adobes flourished, and this was the Barbary coast of Los Angeles.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The only railroad running to the city was the one from Wilmington.  Its depot and terminus was at the corner of Commercial and Alameda streets. A San Francisco capitalist built the road, not, however, until the people of the city by vote had subscribed to a large block of the stock, and the people of the county to another large block.  The late General E. E. Hewitt ran the road as Superintendent, and he was assisted in the office of the depot by James Landers and John Milner, whilst George Furman was equal to attending to all the freight delivery business of Los Angeles at that time.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Our streets were enlivened twice a week by the arrival of Nadeau's wagon trains from Inyo with bullion bars.  These were brought from the rich mine of Victor Beaudry at Cerro Gordo, transferred to the Wilmington train, taken to the steamers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Remo Nadeau was a man of untiring industry and energy and of dauntless business nerve. He was a French Canadian, and of that hardy and sinuous make-up which is characteristic of his race.  He had an extensive farm at Florence, where he kept a large reserve of fine mules and had farrier and blacksmith shops and a retinue of harness-menders. He raised grain on his ranch to keep his stock sub plied with feed, and held the economies of his extensive business well in hand under his own keen supervision.</P>
006.sgm:<P>In 1812 there were very few churches in Los Angeles, and the attendance was very slim.  Outside of the old Catholic church opposite the plaza <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The gardens of the Round House, on Main street below Third, ran from Main to Spring street, and were quite a public resort on Sundays and holidays. They belonged to the eccentric George Lehman, who carried out his strange ideas of embellishment not only to the grounds but to the plan of the house, which was built after the style of a watch-tower. He had placed crude elongated cement figures of Adam and Eve reposing side by side on the grounds near the gate, and made out of the same material the figure of an enormous serpent catching the ear of our first mother.  The trees in the garden were of many and rare varieties, but laid out in no sort of order. Lehman had a craze for accumulating town lots. He owned several hundred of them in that part of the city that was then called George town, from Sixth street south and Spring street <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>A syndicate had built a mill on Aliso street to grind meals.  It was run by water-power.  John Denim, one of the brothers who founded the Capitol Mills in San Francisco, had just leased the Aliso Mills and was producing a large assortment of meals for the trade in San Francisco.  I asked him, one day, why he confined himself to meals. He said he would like to manufacture flour, but that there was not enough wheat grown in the county to make it an object. He said that the Sonoranian, Ramirez, who had quite a ranch beyond Pio Pico's farm at Ranchito, was the only one in the county who raised wheat in any quantity.  Five years from the time that conversation was held seven ships, laden with surplus wheat raised in Los Angeles county in one season, were dispatched to Europe.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Two morning and one evening paper supplied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:the journalistic wants of Los Angeles in 1872. The <HI REND="italics">Daily New's</HI>
006.sgm: was edited by Judge A. J. King and Captain C. E. Beane; the <HI REND="italics">Daily Star</HI>
006.sgm: had been leased to G. W. Barter, who was runnIng it for all it was worth; and Tiffany &amp; Painter were publishing the <HI REND="italics">Evening Express</HI>
006.sgm:, which was edited by Judge Austin, who was also United States Land Register. It was Republican in politics. The <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
006.sgm: was ultra-Democratic, and the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
006.sgm:<P>The great question which agitated the people was the voting for or against a subsidy to the Southern Pacific railroad and thus to place Los Angeles irrevocably on the line of a transcontinental road.  The subsidy to be voted for was bonds of the county for $385,000; the stock owned by the city and the county in the Los Angeles and San Pedro railroad, amounting to $150,000 for the county and $75,000 for the city, and depot grounds to cost $12,000--altogether $622,000. The State law, which allowed counties to subsidize railroads to the extent of 5 per cent on the assessed value of the property in the county, had not been repealed as regarded Los Angeles and some other counties, and as the assessment roll of 1872 footed up $10,700,000,5 per cent on that total amounted to $535,000. The county's stock in the San Pedro railroad was, as agreed to, deducted from this, so that the Southern Pacific received $385,000 in bonds, $225,000 in stock of the San Pedro road, and $12,000 in depot grounds.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The fight against voting the subsidy was a sharp but ineffectual one.  The charter of the county required the road to go through Los Angeles.  But the railroad corporation had intimated that they could fulfill the requirement of the charter by merely touching an edge of the county as they passed through the Mohave desert. The apprehension that the city of Los Angeles would be left remote from the main transcontinental line if the subsidy was defeated rallied the great mass of the people to its support.  In the light of subsequent history the people acted wisely.  If Los Angeles had been sidetracked as Stockton and Visalia had been, she would have grown into a considerable city through her exceptional resources, but she would have been set back many years in reaching the metropolitan importance and commercial opulence which she now enjoys. It requires no small amount of courage for a people to vote as a subsidy to a railroad corporation one-eighteenth of their entire assessable wealth; but the people of Los Angeles had that courage, and it is well for the people of the present day, who are happy and prosperous on account of the marvelous growth of their city and county, that the old-timers had that nerve.</P>
006.sgm:<illus entity="a006-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE NADEAU BLOCK, LOS ANGELES</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>SEASIDE  RESORTS  IN  THE  SEVENTIES--WHY  COL. KEWEN DIDN'T GO TO CONGRESS--A GAY BACHELOR SURPRISE--A FINANCIAL CRISIS--COLLAPSE OF THE TEMPLE &amp; WORKMAN BANK--HOW BALDWIN COMES TO ITS RESCUE-HOW WORKMAN CUTS THE GORDIAN KNOT</P>
006.sgm:<P>The principal and most popular seaside resort of Los Angeles in 1872 was the mouth of Santa Monica canyon.  Here, under the shades of tall and ample sycamores, families would pitch their tents, and would disport in the adjacent surf during the hot summer months.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Will Tell's, now known as the Ballonna, was also a favorite resort, especially on Sundays. The proprietor and his wife were famous for setting a sumptuous and inviting table, and as the distance just made a pleasant drive from town over good roads, it was very much the fashion amongst the "four hundred" of that period to take a "spin" down to Tell's behind a fast team and enjoy the luxury of a flue dinner.</P>
006.sgm:<P>San Pedro, near Timms's landing, was also a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The island of Santa Catalina was also a choice resort for those who delighted in "roughing it" for a season at a place where unsurpassed fishing and bathing was always to he had.  The most popular point at the island for pleasure-seekers was then, as it is now, where the pretty town of Avalon has been built.  It was known at that time by various names, such as Timms's valley, Happy Valley and Billy Bruen's Cove. Captain Timms ran sail packets over there at regular intervals during the season, and from thirty to forty families would pitch their tents along the beach and spend a month or two in perfect enjoyment.</P>
006.sgm:<P>These were about all the seaside resorts popularly frequented by the Los Angeles people of that time, and the campers were very well satisfied with them. I believe that as a general thing there was more genuine, hearty, wholesome enjoyment in "roughing it" in tents at one of the few seaside resorts available then, than is experienced now at the many "tony" sea-view hotels carried on in fashionable style and on stilted notions of "prunes and prism."</P>
006.sgm:<P>At the general election in 1872 a representative <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:in  Congress was to be elected from the Fourth district, which then reached from San Francisco to San Diego, inclusive.  The district was Democratic by from three to five thousand majority.  Col. E. J. C. Kewen, of Los Angeles, was the Democratic nominee, and Col. S. O. Houghton, of Santa Clara, the Republican.  Col. Kewen was a fluent, florid speaker, and very popular, especially in the Southern counties. Col. Houghton was a lawyer of ability, had come to California as an officer in Stevenson's regiment in 1847, and had an excellent standing in all parts of the state. It was generally conceded that Col. Kewen had a walk-over, and his election would have been certain had it not been for a most unaccountable <HI REND="italics">faux-pas</HI>
006.sgm: he made in a speech at San Diego.  The people of Los Angeles county were deeply interested in the construction by the Government of a bulkhead at San Pedro for the purpose of deepening the channel and making the inner harbor accessible to vessels of twelve feet draft.  Appropriations had been made by Congress, and the work was progressing satisfactorily under the supervision of the Federal department of Engineers. When the work was first commenced the depth of the channel at the entrance was only about 2 1/2 feet.  That depth had been considerably increased by the action of the tides enclosed by a bulkhead and rip-raps connecting Rattlesnake with Deadman's Island. The people of San Diego claimed at that time that Los <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Col. Kewen was one of those brilliant men of whom we have seen so many, gifted with fine powers of oratory, but who are deficient in that nice poise of judgment which renders their words weighty and decisive when applied to the practical questions of life. He was brave, generous and affable. He could not do enough for a friend, and was the most entertaining of hosts at his fine home, "El Molino," in the San Gabriel orange belt.  He came to California across the plains in 1849 in the same wagon train with Dr. T. J. White, of St. Louis, and family, and on their arrival at Sacramento, he married one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Among the many curious characters in Los Angeles at that time none presented more remarkable traits than Major George Washington Barter, the lessee of the <HI REND="italics">Daily Star</HI>
006.sgm: from its owner, my old friend, Henry Hamilton, who was taking his <HI REND="italics">otium cum dignitate</HI>
006.sgm: at a nice orange orchard he had purchased near the old Mission of San Gabriel.  Barter was particularly peculiar from his strict observance of personal style in dress and make-up. He was neither dandyish nor plain, but there was a "loudness," so to speak, in his tailoring and toilette which set him apart from the rest of the community as a standing beau. He was not a bad-looking man; indeed, he would have passed anywhere for what the ladies would call a handsome man if he did not give one the idea that he was always on exhibition. Barring his little foibles in this respect and certain affectations that were always out of place, Barter was a nice and companionable fellow. He was considered the bachelor par excellence of the town, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:he was always a welcome visitor at the houses of the best society.  In the game of hearts he was considered a success, and nobody would have been astonished any day to read in the society notices of the papers that the Major was engaged to any one of a dozen charming young ladies.  Indeed, it was a constant source of wonder to his friends how he managed to keep out of the meshes of the matrimonial net.  When I arrived in Los Angeles he engaged me to write for his paper during the campaign, and after the election was over, as he was desirous that I should continue, I did so.  One morning he came to me with a troubled look and said he wanted my advice about a very serious matter. Briefly he told me he had a wife, and that she, with their two children, had arrived in town that morning.  I was about to congratulate him, when he said the union was not a felicitous one, and that her arrival was very inopportune.  He wished that I would go to the hotel and see her.  I refused to do so, and told him plainly that it was his duty to call on her at once, become reconciled and act the man to her and their children.  My counsel had a good effect, for he went to the hotel where they were stopping, and in the course of a few hours he returned to the office with his wife and two daughters--real nice young ladies--and presented me to them. It was soon known all over town that Barter's family had arrived from the East, and the bachelor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>In the meantime I took editorial charge of the <HI REND="italics">Evening  Express</HI>
006.sgm:, and soon afterwards, in connection with Mr. Joseph D. Lynch, organized a joint stock company and purchased the concern.  Shortly afterwards he leased the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
006.sgm:, and Mr. Lynch took full charge of that paper, whilst I remained in control of the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
006.sgm:. The <HI REND="italics">Herald </HI>
006.sgm:<P>The collapse of the Bank of California, in San Francisco, started a financial panic in the State, which reached Los Angeles with disastrous force. Unfortunately the cool judgment and financial acumen of I. W. Hellman, which was wanted very much in Los Angeles at that crisis, was not available. He had gone to Europe and left the Farmers and Merchants Bank in charge of Governor Downey, the vice-president. By an ill-advised step the latter gentleman entered into an agreement with the Temple <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Mr. Hellman, being apprised by telegraph of the trouble in Los Angeles, hurried back, and when he arrived he had a stormy interview with Governor Downey. He at once made arrangements to re-open the bank, and forced the vice-president to retire. F. P. F. Temple went to San Francisco with ample securities to raise coin to re-open his bank. For weeks he followed the moneyed men of that city begging for assistance, but to no purpose. He offered to hypothecate realty, including ranches and some of the most valuable property in the city, for gold enough to resume business.  He could prevail on none of the capitalists to listen to him. At last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:he was steered into the hands of E. J. Baldwin, who agreed to advance him $200,000, taking all his ranches and property as security.  The bank reopened.  In two weeks its available cash was exhausted, and the doors of the Temple &amp; Workman bank were closed never to re-open.  Its affairs went into the courts.  Receivers were appointed.  Suits and counter-suits were piled upon each other, and all the machinery of the law was placed in motion complicating matters in an inextricable tangle. The upshot of the whole affair was that the depositors never got a cent, and what was left of the estate was eaten up In litigation.  Baldwin foreclosed on his securities, and when poor old Wm. Workman, Temple's partner, found that his home ranch at the Puente was involved in the ruin, he blew his brains out.  Workman knew little or nothing about the bank, and had probably not visited Los Angeles hail a dozen times during its existence.  He had the utmost confidence in the business ability of his son-in-law, Temple, and gave himself no concern about the matter.  He could not understand how Temple's failure in the bank could involve his home ranch at the Puente, where he had lived from 1842, when he retired from the life of a trapper to that of an agriculturist, and was so shocked when he realized that it was to be taken from him by no fault of his that he brought the drama of his life to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A PERIOD OF DEPRESSION--THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY COMPANY DENOUNCED--CONCESSION OF RATES ON PLASTER'S HAIR--AMUSING SCENE BETWEEN CHAS. CROCKER AND JUDGE BRONSON--HOW THE GOVERNMENT WAS UNGRATEFUL TO THE RAILROAD  MAGNATES--MARIE ANTOINETTE'S S&egrave;VRES VASE.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The effect of the collapse of the Temple &amp; Workman bank upon business was disastrous, and it was several years before the consequent losses were recovered from and confidence entirely restored. This will be readily understood when we call to mind the fact that Los Angeles was then a city of only about 7,000 inhabitants, and that the business community was about equally divided as friends and patrons of the two leading banks.  The depositors of the Temple &amp; Workman bank were severely crippled, some entirely ruined, and the loss of confidence entailed upon the community was such that business In all its departments was carried on in so conservative a way that expansion and progress were out of the question for several years.  From 1876 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The Southern Pacific railroad had placed Los Angeles in full connection with the outside world; but the beneficial effects of this connection upon agriculture and business had not come up to the rosy anticipations the people entertained when they voted for the subsidy. It was expected that the road would not only open near and distant markets for their products, but that its completion would be soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>An amusing incident occurred at the Court House meeting which the town laughed at for many a day afterwards.  The late Judge Bronson entered the court room whilst Crocker was receiving the complaints of the fruit-raisers and business men.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"Well, Judge," said Mr. Crocker, in a bluff, hearty manner, when he saw Judge Bronson enter, "what have you to complain of in regard to our rates?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Everything you charge is outrageously extortionate. For instance," and he picked up a small pamphlet containing a schedule of the rates and opening it haphazard placed his finger on an item; "for instance, Crocker, how do you think people can live as long as you maintain so outrageous a charge as that?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>Bronson put on his glasses, and read from the schedule, "Plasterer's hair, max."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Do you," continued the Judge, "for a moment suppose, sir, that we can build up a large city here and pay you fellows `max' for plasterer's hair?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>Crocker looked at his schedule and was puzzled. Turning to Col. Gray, he inquired:</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Gray, what the devil is `max'? what does it mean?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>Mr. Gray explained that "max" was the highest rate charged for anything.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Well, Judge, I'm very glad you pointed that out to me. But what the thunder difference does it make to you whether plasterer's hair is carried at low or high rates?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"It makes a great difference," said the Judge; "I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"Well," said Crocker, "I'll help you out. How do you want me to fix the rate for hair?  Just say the word, and I'll make the change."</P>
006.sgm:<P>The Judge said that he knew his clients well, and that nothing but "min" would suit them.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Gray," said Crocker, leaning over to his auditor, "what the devil's `min'?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>Gray explained that it was the lowest rate charged on any article of shipment.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Crocker hardly intended to yield that far, but turning to the Judge he said that for his sake he would make plasterer's hair "min."  The Judge said he was satisfied and turned away.  He could hardly have hit upon any item in the whole schedule the rating of which was of less consequence than plasterer's hair, and it was the belief of everybody that if he had chanced to point out something that would have benefited the whole community Crocker would, under the circumstances, have marked it down to "min" just as readily as he yielded the point to Bronson on plasterer's hair.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The action of the railroad men raised a popular storm over the whole State, and the people were in revolt everywhere at their oppressive charges.  It is difficult to understand how a clear-headed set of business men, whose vast interests seemed to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I shall never forget an incident related to me by the late Governor Stoneman as coming from Justice Field, of the United States Supreme Court. Governor Stanford gave a dinner to a select circle of friends at his palatial residence on Nob Hill, San Francisco. Post-prandial speaking followed, and the Governor, in his remarks, complained very bitterly about the ingratitude of the Government towards the builders of the Central Pacific railroad. He claimed that the Government, for which he and his confreres had made so many and such enormous sacrifices, was hounding them, like Shylock hounded Antonio, for the pound of flesh.  "Yes," said Justice Field in a low voice to those sitting near him, "one has only to look around him here to see how shamefully these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>This anecdote reminds me of another incident that occurred in that same palatial residence.  By special invitation Eli Perkins and myself spent a very pleasant evening with the Governor and his family. It was about the time when Dennis Kearney commenced firing the sand-lot heart against the railroad magnates. Personally, I always held Governor Stanford in the highest esteem. He appointed me a member of his staff when he became the Executive of the State, and our personal relations were always of the most friendly character. On the night of my visit with Perkins, the Governor surpassed himself in his efforts to make it pleasant for us. He and his lamented boy, a fine specimen of promising youth, escorted us through his extensive picture gallery and pointed out those works that he most prized.  Then he took us into the various rooms--the India room, the Pompeii room, etc., all of which were adorned with works of art of the rarest and most costly character.  At last he took us into a room that was lavishly rich in historical relics of the most interesting character.  It looked as if the old palaces of Europe had been ransacked of their art and other treasures to embellish the home of an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:American gentleman. With a feeling of genuine satisfaction he pointed to an immense S&egrave;vres vase that stood under a great illuminated candelabra, and told us he had had hard work to get that magnificent work of art for $100,000, and he called upon me to read the inscription inserted in it in gold script characters. I read: " <HI REND="italics">De Marie Antoinette au dernier Marquis de Villette</HI>
006.sgm:<P>But to me there seemed something significantly ominous in the coincidence. I could not help recalling the fate of the unfortunate queen who presented that vase as a gift to the Marquis of Villette, and coupling the roars of rage that went up from the Jacobins of Paris when Bertrand Bar&egrave;re moved in the National Convention that the "Austrian woman" he sent for trial before Fouquier Tinville--that is, to the guillotine,--with the curses and mutterings of the men of the sand-lot within earshot of us. Was there, I asked myself, a fatality attending the ownership of that vase? The giver and the recipient had both fallen victims to the fury of the reign of terror, the legitimate offspring of the abuse of power.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>THE CAPTURE OF TIBURCIO VASQUEZ, THE NOTED BANDIT AND MURDERER--A CLEVER AND SUCCESSFUL RUSE</P>
006.sgm:<P>I was living in Calaveras county when Joaquin Murietta and his band of cut-throats filled the public mind with horror at the atrocious crimes they were committing in that and the adjoining counties.  Notwithstanding the State offered tempting rewards for the capture of this bandit, and the sheriffs and peace officers throughout the Southern mines were on the alert to capture him, he succeeded in eluding and deluding them.  At length Harry Love, an old scout and mountaineer, raised a company of picked men to run him down.  He was brought to bay, and Jim Burns, who was Love's lieutenant, dispatched him and cut off his head. But I doubt if the terror inspired by Joaquin throughout the Southern mines was nearly as great as that inspired by Tiburcio Vasquez twenty odd years later among the people of the rural counties of California, reaching from Santa Clara to San Diego.  He was at the head of a band of blood-thirsty ruffians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Early one morning he appeared with his band in front of the house of a rich sheep man named Repetto, who lived but a few miles from town, and seizing the latter, he compelled him to write out a check for a  large  amount  and  send  his  son  to  the city to get it cashed.  The boy was told that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>A few days afterwards the Sheriff got word that Vasquez had an appointment at a certain time with a woman at the house of Greek George, on the Cahuenga road, near the Encino.  A party was forthwith organized to capture the bandit.  This party included H. M. Mitchell, A. J. Johnson, Emil Harris and George Beers, a newspaper writer. When they got within a mile or so of Greek George's they intercepted a Mexican caretta driven by a native boy, got into it and instructed the boy to drive on slowly. On reaching the house, they all jumped out and surrounded it. Two of the party went inside <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Sheriff Rowland, who had planned the "campaign of capture," deservedly received great credit for it, and the posse who so successfully carried out the plan were greatly praised for their coolness, adroitness and daring. They had relieved the State of a monster who had become a terror to the people of thirteen counties, and whose raids were traced in the blood of helpless victims from San Jos&eacute; to Los Angeles.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Sheriff Rowland still lives on his splendid patrimonial estate at the Puente, dispensing with generous hand a lavish hospitality which recalls the golden days of old California when the hacienda of every ranchero was an open house where the stranger as well as the <HI REND="italics">paisano</HI>
006.sgm: were sure to be received <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Poor Mitchell, as true a friend and brave a gentleman as ever wore spurs, met with a melancholy fate a few years ago.  Whilst out hunting he was mistaken by his companion for a deer and shot through the heart.</P>
006.sgm:<P>George Beers was a young newspaper man of unusual brilliancy, and notwithstanding his irregularities, Charles De Young, of the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
006.sgm:<P>Albert J. Johnson was the younger brother of Captain George Johnson, one of the notable triumvirate who established the California Steam Navigation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A GROUP OF NOTED LOS ANGELANS AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS</P>
006.sgm:<P>Los Angeles, like all parts of California, has had among her pioneers men who would have been distinguished in any community for their broad spirit of liberality, their exceptional intellectual endowment and their indomitable energy and enterprise. Perhaps none of them possessed these characteristics in a more marked degree than the late Don Mateo Keller.  Mr. Keller was an Irishman, and whilst the racial traits of ready wit and fiery impulse plainly betrayed his Milesian origin, his Yankee cuteness, his Gallic thrift and his Teutonic providence gave an unusual cosmopolitan character to his peculiar make-up. On slight acquaintance one would conclude that Don Mateo was just an ordinary Irishman who had graduated from a hedge school. But a closer knowledge of the man would soon dissipate this hasty and unwarranted conclusion.  In the first place he was of a very inquiring turn of mind and a deep thinker. He never accepted a fact until by his own searching process of investigation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:he had satisfied himself that it was such. His knowledge was various and extensive, yet he was so plain and commonplace in conversation and manner that one would fail to suspect that under so much unpretentiousness there existed a rich and deep mine of acquired knowledge which enabled him to discuss learnedly the most abstruse questions and to throw a flood of tight upon the most recondite subjects. I had known him a long while before I was aware that he was, indeed, a profound scholar and a master of several languages. He had made botany a careful study and was as conversant with the habits and peculiarities of the growths of the vegetable kingdom as if he had made them a special study from the beginning. His knowledge of viticulture was far in advance of that professed by many of the specialists in this branch of horticultural science.  He was a practical vigneron and vintner, and raised at his large vineyard near where the Arcade Depot now stands, grapes of all varieties, from which he manufactured wines which were pronounced excellent by European connoisseurs.  When the Legislature passed an act to give a considerable sum as a prize to the person who should raise in this State the best bale of cotton, he received the award. He was constantly experimenting in new fields to produce something which would be of advantage to the interests of his locality. It was this tireless spirit which led him into an experiment which might have resulted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>It would seem paradoxical that a gentleman gifted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:with so strong an understanding as Don Mateo Keller should, nevertheless, be the easy dupe of the most transparent charlatans if they professed to be on talking terms with departed spirits.  I can readily conceive that the strongest mind has no advantage over the weakest in the consideration of questions touching our future state; but Keller was so wrapped up in spiritism that his acute powers of discrimination afforded him no guard whatever against the baldest empirics who professed to he mediums. I have heard him more than once defend his belief in the power of certain natures to commune with spirits by relating a remarkable instance which occurred in his own experience.  A professed medium named Jackson had brought himself into penury and distress by addiction to the flowing bowl.  He applied to Keller for assistance, and that gentleman gave him employment at his Rising Sun Vineyard. Jackson performed his duties satisfactorily for some time; but at length he got into the bad habit of going uptown nights and patronizing the bar-rooms. It was noticed that when he went home at a late hour he invariably took a bottle of whiskey with him.  One moonlight night as he was wending his unsteady way to the vineyard, Keller saw him, and proposed to a friend who was with him that they should follow Jackson and find out where he was in the habit of hiding his bottle. They did so, and when Jackson reached the vineyard house he was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>"Now," said Don Mateo, "what do you think that confounded fellow did next morning?  He looked under the stoop the first thing, and finding his bottle gone he went to one side and acted as if he was in close communication with something or somebody. All of a sudden his face lighted up and he walked straight to that haystack, pulled the plug of hay out of the hole, and withdrawing the bottle returned with it into the house.  I saw him do this with my own eyes."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"How do you suppose, Don Mateo, he came to hit upon the exact place where the bottle was hidden?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Oh, that's plain enough.  He was familiar with a lot of drunken spirits, which he consulted at the time I saw him hesitating in the yard, and those spirits, sympathizing with him in his distress for the want of an eye-opener, told him exactly where to find the bottle."</P>
006.sgm:<P>Barring his vagaries on this subject, Don Mateo Keller was one of the keenest, most practical, matter-of-fact men I ever encountered.  I delighted in his conversation, it was always so rich in new suggestion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Col. James G. Howard was another notable character of the transition period of Los Angeles.  He was distinguished at the bar as a lawyer of fine ability and of exceptional force before a jury.  His tenacity and persistence coupled with his almost exhaustless intellectual resources brought him off triumphant in many cases that possessed but scant merit. His greatest success, as will be readily surmised, was in criminal practice, and in desperate cases he allowed himself a latitude which but few lawyers would dare to take.  Col. Howard had led a checkered and adventurous life. He joined Lopez in his ill-started expedition against Cuba, and by a lucky chance escaped the garrote, which ended the revolutionary career of his chief and many of his companions-in-arms.  When he first came to California he opened a law office in Sacramento.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:became extensively known at that time as the author of the "Colonel Blove Papers," a series of trenchant satires that made their appearance in the Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
006.sgm:<P>J. J. Warner was for over sixty years one of the most notable residents of Los Angeles.  In 1830, Don Juan, as he was familiarly called, left his home in Connecticut to go West.  He was in delicate health, and he sought change of climate to strengthen his weak constitution. Arriving in St. Louis he joined a wagon train going to Santa Fe. Here he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:found a party of trappers fitting out for an expedition to California, and he became a member of it. He arrived in Los Angeles in 1831, and resided there continuously up to the time of his death in 1895. He was in many respects a remarkable man. Having entirely recovered his health in the salubrious climate of Southern California, he presented a fine picture of stalwart manhood.  For years after his first arrival he followed the fascinating and adventurous calling of a trapper.  In those days beaver abounded in the rivers that emptied into the San Joaquin and Sacramento, and he pursued his quarry with varying success in the Merced, the Stanislaus, the Calaveras and the other streams.  He once related to me the experience he had in one of his trapping excursions, at the mouth of the Mokelumne river. He had set his traps in places where there were numerous signs of beaver and camped on a knoll of high land where he could keep them well in sight.  The rainy season had set in earlier than usual, and the river was rising so rapidly that he considered it advisable to take in his traps and wait for the freshet to subside.  But the rain increased in the volume of its downpour and he and his comrades came to the conclusion that it was unsafe to remain where they were. They left the knoll, which was already almost submerged, and sought higher land.  The rain continued to come down in torrents, and they decided that the safest course <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:they could pursue would be to make their way to Sutter's Fort. With great difficulty they reached that place of refuge in the midst of a blinding rain storm which gave no signs of cessation. They remained at the fort for a number of days, during which the flood continued to rise, and when the downpour ceased, the whole country was submerged. From the foothills of the Sierra Nevada to the Coast Range nothing but a vast sheet of water could be seen. Their provisions were rapidly diminishing, and the Indians in the fort were living on short allowance.  After a consultation with Captain Sutter, they determined to sail for Sonoma in a whale boat which the captain was willing to furnish them. Don Juan declared that he believed that such a flood recurring at the present time would be utterly ruinous to all the farms and towns within range of the overflow of the rivers pouring into the Sacramento and the San Joaquin basins. I regret very much that I have forgotten the year in which that great flood occurred; but it must have been subsequent to the year 1841, for during that year Sutter founded New Helvetia by building a number of adobe houses and surrounding them with a defensive wall, which caused Americans to give to the small settlement the name of Sutter's Fort. Perhaps with the lapse of years the flood increased to the formidable dimensions it appeared in memory to Don Juan, but from his description of it I should judge that it was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Don Juan was gifted with an unusually good memory, and was very interesting when in a reminiscent mood. He was generally accepted as authority upon doubtful facts in the early history of California, and it is great pity that he did not write a book of memoirs during his declining years.  It would have been a most interesting bequest to his successors in a land that has been rich in incident and romantic in its wealth of events that are growing in importance to the historian as the years pass by. Warner was a man of education and intellectual resources. He came from fine New England stock, of which the late Chief Justice Waite, his cousin, represented one branch. The closing years of Mr. Warner's life were spent sadly enough, although his worldly circumstances were in fair condition.  His eyesight was always weak; but about ten years before his death it became dimmer and dimmer, until at last he was left in utter darkness. He closed his days in a comfortable residence he had built in the University tract, surrounded by grandchildren and great-grandchildren, at the ripe age of eighty-eight.</P>
006.sgm:<P>It would not by any means do to leave General Phineas Banning out of the list of any of the notable Los Angeles men of that period. His was a character that cannot be sketched in a few words. But I will try to give my readers a picture of the man as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:briefly as possible. Whilst he was shrewd and insinuating, he was possessed of a brusqueness and bonhommie that made him at home, so to speak, on first acquaintance, with all sorts of people.  He knew human nature from the ground up, and had a bluff way of making himself on good terms with everybody.  His "Hail, old fellow," was the "open sesame" to the good-will of all he met. In business he was shrewd, deep and far-seeing. He could turn the shaft of a joke against himself with the dexterity of a Sunset Cox.  With his Falstaffian rotundity and exuberance of good-nature, he carried his points against the odds of armed suspicion and ill-concealed prejudice. Notwithstanding his bulky physique, he was always brisk and intent on business. He never was in doubt about names. If the appellation of a person did not come spontaneously to his lips he was always ready with a pleasant substitute for it. When, during war times, Wilmington, the town he started and called after his native city in Delaware, was selected as the military headquarters for the Carleton column, he made himself immensely popular with the army officers, and it was worse than useless to run against him for an army contract. His good nature and his champagne were always on tap. With a keen eye to the future he kept constantly in view the possibilities and advantages of the inner harbor of San Pedro.  He built small steamers to do the passenger carrying business to the large steamers <illus entity="a006-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OLD MILL</P>
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006.sgm:<P>Albert F. Kercheval was a sweet character. He was an enterprising orange-grower in the lower part of Los Angeles city, where he raised some of the finest fruit grown in the county.  He was a born poet, and his verse was as pure and as limpid as the waters that flow from the fountain of Helicon. Some of his ambitious pieces deserve to live as long as English poetry is read.  "Oblivion," "Ode to the Sun" and "Shakespeare" are simply majestic in their grandeur of thought and the cadent beauty of their harmonious numbers. He published a volume of his poems in 1885 that ought to grace the library of every lover of the Muse.  He died in 1892.</P>
006.sgm:<P>There was gathered to his fathers the other day one of the most tireless, hopeful and enterprising of the old residents of Los Angeles. J. W. Potts had lived in that city from the early fifties. He had been a merchant, a farmer and a speculator.  He had the most unbounded faith in the grand destiny of his city and county; and his optimism was always backed by his means. He made several fortunes in legitimate trade, and invested them in realty. His sanguine nature led him to always discount the future, and in the several booms through which Los Angeles passed in thirty odd years, each collapse caught him overloaded with land or lots.  He retrieved himself from all these unlucky ventures but the last. That held him fast as if in a vise, and during the closing days of his life he experienced the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Benjamin D. Wilson was perhaps one of the finest specimens of pioneer frontiersmen that ever came to California. He was a Tennessean by birth but a son of the world by the comprehensiveness of his love for his kind.  He came to California in 1842 with Wm. Workman, John Rowland and others from Santa F&eacute;, New Mexico.  He had been a trapper, and in the pursuit of his calling he had penetrated to the country beyond the Rockies.  Having taken in Southern California in one of his expeditions, he became enamored of its climate and its fertile valleys. On his return to Santa  F&eacute; he and Rowland and Workman organized a party to remove permanently to the beautiful sunset land.  He secured several grants of ranchos from the Mexican government, but finally settled on the beautiful tract in San Gabriel Valley, where his children now live. He was a man of fine intellectual endowment, of untiring industry and of a high order of moral and physical courage.  He endeared himself to the native Californians, and whatever "Don Benito" advised was accepted by them as the right course to pursue. During the Mexican War he was one of the strongest friends the American cause had, and he made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA IN A RESTLESS AND DISSATISFIED MOOD--CALLING OF A CONSTITUTIONAL CONVENTION--FORMATION AND ADOPTION OF A NEW CONSTITUTION--A DISTINGUISHED GROUP OF THE FRAMERS OF THE NEW INSTRUMENT--SACRAMENTO AS IT IS AND AS IT WAS </P>
006.sgm:<P>The financial panic and the collapse of banks in San Francisco and Los Angeles brought hard times to all parts of California.  The people were in a state of agitation and unrest.  A combination of causes tended to aggravate this deplorable condition.  Thousands of men in San Francisco wanted work, but were unable to get it.  Distress and discontent seemed to be more general and acute in the winter of 1877 than ever before.  The Southern counties were suffering from drouth and the middle and northern counties from the blight that seemed to have settled upon all industries.  Some ascribed this last state of affairs to the exactions of the Southern Pacific Railroad, which was the most potent factor in stimulating or enervating the energies of the producers; others traced the root of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>We met at Sacramento September 28th, and were in session for one hundred and fifty-six days.  The constitution which we framed was the subject of attack from powerful quarters, and the capitalists and corporations contributed large sums of money to accomplish its defeat.  But it was to no purpose. The convention had taken the wise precaution to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:print the proposed constitution in pamphlet form, and have a copy of it addressed to every voter in the State. The people made a close study of its provisions, and when they came to vote upon it, the new fundamental law was approved by a very large majority of the votes cast.  It is doubtful whether there ever was a campaign more efficiently organized than that which was carried out by the friends of the new constitution. All the money was with those who opposed it; but whenever a meeting was held with able speakers to give their reasons why the instrument should be defeated, another materialized, and was addressed by ex-delegates and their friends who advanced invincible arguments to show why it should be adopted. In the light of experience there can be no doubt that the new constitution contained many serious defects, some of which have been since remedied by popular amendment, and some of which still deface the instrument, but taken as a whole it was a step in advance, and has proved a beneficial safeguard to the rights of the people and contributed materially to the purifying of the State and municipal governments and placing wise limitations upon their powers. There are many more steps to be taken before we shall have a fundamental instrument that will accomplish all the reforms that are needed; but the constitution of 1879 has blazed the way in the right direction, and it is only a question of time when the people <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>The constitutional convention was composed of some of the brightest minds and foremost representative men in the State. Joseph P. Hoge, who was selected to preside over its proceedings, was a lawyer of high and established reputation. He was a contemporary in Illinois of such men as Abraham Lincoln and Stephen A. Douglas, and represented that State for years in Congress. He presided over the Convention with a dignity and ability that rendered all his decisions upon points of parliamentary law final. He was a man well advanced in years, but so springy and elastic, and so possessed of a spirit of juvenility that he was as much at home with the exuberance of the younger members as he was in touch with the sedateness and gravity of the older. I doubt whether his superior in parliamentary knowledge or decision of character could have been found in the State. Indeed in the latter respect he was thought by some to be arbitrarily "czarish," and disposed to crush and overpower those who had the temerity to question his rulings.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Alongside of me sat General Volney E. Howard. I fear that my admiration and partiality may betray me into drawing too partial a picture of this gentleman. Whilst, however, he had faults, he was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>S. M. Wilson was one of the brainiest men in the Convention, and a lawyer of distinction.  His <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Eugene Casserly was another member of marked distinction.  He was perhaps the most scholarly man in the State.  His knowledge of Greek, Hebrew and Latin and his conversance with the classics was as thorough as if he had been at the head of a university all his life.  He had served one term in the United States Senate without adding to his fame, for his faculties were not of that <HI REND="italics">timbre</HI>
006.sgm: which shine in contentious parliamentary bodies.  His nature was retiring and reflective, and indifferent to the applause of the multitude.  There was also a tinge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>James McM. Shafter was another gentleman who had been conspicuously in the eyes of the public for many years.  He, too, was a man of various and extensive knowledge, and a distinguished member of the bar. He possessed that rare gift, a mind that was profound in its reach and acute on the surface.  He could successfully wrestle with the deepest subjects and detect the slightest flaw in the most commonplace transaction.  His New England "cuteness" enabled him to more than hold his own with the most contentious hair-splitter, and no doubt this qualification rendered him as successful in worldly affairs as he was at the bar.  There was a great fund of good humor in him, and it came out in full measure and delightful effect when he was surrounded by a few congenial friends.  He was a very valuable member of the Convention, and tore to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>David S. Terry was a member of the Convention, and a very helpful and efficient one he was.  His carriage during the whole session was so manly and courteous that he won to himself many friends who had before been strongly prejudiced against him. An incident occurred during the session which raised him in the estimation of many of his colleagues. A vacancy had occurred in the Alameda delegation on account of the death of the lamented ex-Governor H. H. Haight, and a prominent citizen of that county was a candidate before the Convention to fill the vacancy.  Terry had been requested to support him, but he showed no disposition to do so.  At last the aspirant sent a mutual friend to Terry to urge his assistance in the contest, or say why he refused.  Terry was prompt in giving the reason for his refusal.  He said that he did not believe in bestowing public honors upon a man who had married his mistress.  This was reported to the candidate, whose indignation culminated in his sending a challenge to Terry.  The latter treated the challenge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>J. W. Winans was another clear-headed, forceful man of ideas.  He was well grounded in the law and a well-equipped man of letters.  His work in the Convention was of great value, and his death was deplored by all who knew him.</P>
006.sgm:<P>I have only mentioned in this cursory review the names of some of the most prominent delegates who have since gone over the dark river.  Amongst those who are still alive there are many who hold high positions of public trust and whom the people delight to honor.</P>
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006.sgm:<P>The work of that Convention was performed through a continual storm of opposition, and in despite of the unwise counsels of injudicious friends. It was composed of representative men of all classes and all interests, and to have evolved out of such heterogeneous elements an organic instrument as worthy of the praise of impartial critics as the one they submitted to the people, was a task of no small difficulty. It has not accomplished all that its friends had hoped, but it demonstrated a fact which must he gratifying to every lover of the State, that however deeply the people may feel their wrongs, and however earnestly they may resent them, the principle of rectifying them by American methods through their power as citizens, in a regular and decorous manner, was splendidly illustrated and vindicated by the Constitutional Convention of 1878-9.</P>
006.sgm:<P>During my protracted stay in Sacramento as a delegate to the Convention, I had the opportunity to see much of that remarkable city and to form a warm friendship for many of her people.  There is no city in the State which has grown up and flourished under more adverse circumstances and more sweeping calamities than Sacramento; nor is there any community whose people have shown more pluck, greater perseverance, or a more abiding faith in the triumphant outcome of their beloved city than the men and women of Sacramento who stood loyally by her until she has become as beautiful and <illus entity="a006-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AN EXTREMELY RARE CUT OF SACRAMENTO IN 1849  Steamers that had come to California around Cape Horn steamed up the Sacramento River and anchored in front of the city</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>When I first visited Sacramento in July, 1850, it was just recovering from the severe flood of the previous winter.  But its founders, instead of putting their hands in their pockets and bewailing their lot, commenced to build the levee that now protects them. They not only placed hundreds of men at work upon it at the then prevailing high wages, but they willingly burdened their shoulders with a tremendous debt through the terribly depreciated value of the municipal scrip they were compelled to issue to pay for the work.  At that time nearly all the business houses were on the street fronting the river.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The river at that time was as clear as crystal, and little fishes that were playing "tag" near the bottom, could be plainly seen from the banks.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Sacramento was the focus of an immense business from the time of the discovery of gold.  The Northern mines were prodigiously rich and very extensive, and were for years the center of the densest populations in the State.  Stage lines radiated from that city to all the mining towns in California north of the Mokelumne river; and the roads leading out of it were alive with teams drawing great wagons heavily laden with goods of all kinds to supply the mining camps.</P>
006.sgm:<P>There was hardly any limit to the business prosperity of Sacramento down to the time that the railroad reached San Francisco.  That made great and radical changes at once, and thenceforth Sacramento was compelled to rely more especially upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Sacramento cannot achieve greater prosperity than she deserves.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>THE FIRST EXPERIMENT IN BEET SUGAR IN LOS ANGELES COUNTY--AN UNSUCCESSFUL CONGRESSIONAL CAMPAIGN--CONSOLATIONS IN ORDER--BILL REYNOLDS TO THE FRONT--THE DAWNING OF BETTER TIMES--THE SANTA F&eacute; SYSTEM TO SOLVE THE RAILROAD PROBLEM--ITS COMING ASSURED</P>
006.sgm:<P>When I returned to Los Angeles, after my protracted Convention duties at Sacramento, I found the city still suffering from the prevailing depression.  There were, however, signs that better times were ahead.  Some new business buildings had been erected, and quite an influx had arrived from the East to see what inducements were held out in this section for investment.  Nadeau was making preparations to devote his extensive ranch at Florence to the raising of sugar beets and erecting a sugar refinery.  A man had come here who claimed that he had had large experience in the business.  His credentials were of the most satisfactory character, and nobody who had investigated the subject had any doubt that the experiment would prove <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1879 I ran for Congress.  When I was at Sacramento, an informal meeting of the leading Democrats of the State was held there, and it was decided that in order that the party should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I took my defeat philosophically and returned to my labors disgusted with politics.  My friends offered me all kinds of consolation and recounted all sorts of anecdotes about the way in which defeated candidates had "taken their medicine."  Wm. H. Reynolds, a peculiar character, was particularly earnest in impressing me with the idea that I ought to be thankful that the people had elected me to stay at home.  "Ten good men," said he, "are spoiled by success in politics to one that is benefitted."  He then related how Joe McCandless, by a singular defeat, was so disgusted with politics and politicians that he forswore office and became a <illus entity="a006-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE PICO HOUSE, LOS ANGELES, IN THE EARLY 80's</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:valuable private citizen ever after.  The McCandless story was, in brief, that he had been elected to the early California Legislatures a number of times. He was a staunch Whig, and his party was always hopelessly in the minority in both houses.  It was usual, however, for the Whig Assemblymen to hold a caucus at the opening of the session and select one of their number to be voted for as Speaker.  Joe coveted this honor the last year he was in the House, and when the caucus was called he went personally to all the members and said that it would please his old father back in Tennessee to know that his son had received the honor of the nomination of his party for Speaker of the Assembly.  They all gladly promised him that they would vote for him. When, however, the ballots were canvassed, it was found that McCandless had received but one vote. Joe was greatly shocked at the result of the ballot, and went over into a corner of the room to hide his chagrin.  Seeing him so greatly moved, they one by one went over to him, and expressed sorrow that he had not been elected; but each of them was careful to say that he had done his best to nominate him, and wound up by declaring that he had cast the solitary vote he had received.  After about a dozen of them had repeated this consolatory tale in his ear, Henry A. Crabbe, of filibuster memory, went up to him and when he got down to the routine point that he had cast that vote, Joe raised himself up, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I assured Reynolds that I was not borrowing any trouble over my defeat, but that I felt very much like Joe McCandless; it had enabled me to find out meannesses in human nature I never dreamt of before, and that I would eschew politics thereafter, as far as running for office was concerned.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The peculiarities of Bill Reynolds are so finely and vividly drawn by Major Horace Bell in his interesting book of reminiscences that I hesitate to present to my readers this remarkable character. Major Bell has told us how prompt Reynolds was to answer in person Lord Raglan's message to come at once to the Crimea, as they wanted his aid and counsel in the prosecution of the war with Russia; and how when he made his appearance at headquarters, Raglan embraced him with affectionate fervor, and said that now, indeed, that Reynolds had come, Sebastopol was as good as taken.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Reynolds' complexion was very swarthy, and his whole appearance was that of a high-class Hawaiian. Yet he was not slow to resent the intimation that he was anything but an American.  His English was pure, and his conversation was that of an educated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Colonel Howard and myself were coming down on the old steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
006.sgm:<P>"There's Bill Reynolds over there; let us go to him and hear him romance about this place."</P>
006.sgm:<P>We found Reynolds leaning over the rail, with his eyes intently fixed upon a rocky knoll projecting into the harbor.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Good morning, Bill," said the Colonel.  "What were you looking at with so much interest?"</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Bill turned around and greeted us with a smile that was peculiar to him, but which was somewhat Ethiopic, and had a touch of sweetness in the manner in which it displayed a fine set of teeth.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Well, gentlemen," said he, "I was just looking at that point jutting out there, and it brought to my mind a circumstance that occurred to me here in the winter of 1842."</P>
006.sgm:<P>Howard and I exchanged glances, as much as to say, "He's off.  Now we'll get it."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Well, what was that event, Bill?" asked Howard.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"You see," said Bill, "I was living in San Luis that year, a guest of Pio Pico, and was in the habit of coming down to the harbor every morning and taking a sail, or fishing around in the spots where I knew I could always catch something worth hauling in.  That morning I looked out to sea, and thought I saw a large vessel just heaving in sight. I kept my eyes upon it, and she soon loomed up into the dimensions and shape of a large man-of-war. It was not long `before I made her out to be an English frigate, steering direct for the harbor.  As she neared the offing I jumped into my boat and sailed out to her.  When within speaking distance the captain hailed me and asked if this was the offing of San Luis Obispo as he found it on his chart.  I told him that it was.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"`Are you a pilot here?' he then asked me.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"`I am,' I replied.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"`Are you sure you know all about the harbor and are capable to bring a ship to safe anchor?'</P>
006.sgm:<P>"`Yes, sir; quite sure.'</P>
006.sgm:<P>"`Do you believe you could bring this ship in and anchor her in a secure place?'</P>
006.sgm:<P>"`I do.'</P>
006.sgm:<P>"`Could you handle her while doing so?'</P>
006.sgm:<P>"`Perfectly.'</P>
006.sgm:<P>"`Then come on board.'</P>
006.sgm:<P>"I went on board, stood by the captain and pointed out to him the exact spot at which I thought the anchors should be let go.  It was right there, about one hundred and fifty yards beyond that point of rocks.  I gave two or three orders which were instantly obeyed, called to the men to let go the halliards, lower the top sails and then told the man at the wheel to hold her down hard a-port. The captain.turned to me and said:</P>
006.sgm:<P>"`I see, sir, you understand your business, and this ship is entirely in your charge.'  Then he went below.</P>
006.sgm:<P>"You never, Colonel, saw anything more nicely done than the way I brought that frigate to the exact point I was looking at, and let the anchors go so that she brought up as prettily as a woman before the nuptial altar."</P>
006.sgm:<P>"That was in 1842, was it, Bill?"</P>
006.sgm:<P>"Yes, in the latter part of the year."</P>
006.sgm:<P>Col. Howard and I sauntered away to another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>"A few days ago," said he, "we were sitting with a party in the Grand Hotel, and Bill told them how he helped Sir Charles Napier to get out of a dangerous defile in Afghanistan, where his whole army might have been annihilated. That was early in 1843, and if he had gone by rail all the way he could hardly have got there in time after bringing his English frigate to anchor in the harbor of San Luis Obispo."</P>
006.sgm:<P>I remarked that his stories might not be true, but that they made up in interest what they lacked in fact.</P>
006.sgm:<P>In 1880 there was an improved and improving feeling throughout the Los Angeles section. Frank Kimball of San Diego was in correspondence with some of the men in high places in the Atchison, Topeka and Santa F&eacute; Railroad Company, and he felt assured that there was an excellent prospect of a favorable consideration on the part of that corporation extending its line to the Pacific coast.  If it should do so, the logical terminus of the system would be in Southern California, and that meant everything for Los Angeles.  I was called to my door in East Los Angeles, one morning, and I found that my visitor was Frank Kimball.  He told me that he had good news to give me.  I asked him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>This was indeed good news, and I cordially congratulated Mr. Kimball on the success of his mission.  It meant everything to the people of Southern California, and would solve the distracting question of railroad monopoly which had hung over the lower part of the State like a dark pall.  I knew very well that in any overtures that Mr. Kimball had made to the directory of the Santa F&eacute; he had kept the fine harbor of San Diego prominently in their view, and that they would naturally seek to get a terminus on the coast that would place them at once in commercial touch with the rest of California by the facilities which a good harbor would afford.  But the fact that it would, in any event, practically give us the inestimable advantages of a competing through line to the Atlantic overweighed all local terminal considerations, and the people of Los Angeles entered heartily into the plan of doing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I felt that the assurance of another overland railroad coming into our valley would have a highly stimulating effect upon the prosperity of the whole section, and that Los Angeles would receive her full share of the good effects that a new railroad connection would bring to our part of the country. The spirit of the people was animated with new hopes, and from this time forth there was plainly apparent a revival of energy which foreshadowed the good times that were coming.  How more than largely these anticipations have been realized, let the flourishing condition of our whole section and the marvelous growth of the city of Los Angeles answer. That city has emerged from village proportions and has taken rank with the metropolitan cities of the fifth class in the Union.  In another decade, if its healthy growth should continue, it will have a population of a quarter of a million souls, and be firmly placed as one of the great commercial cities of the United States.</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>GENERAL STONEMAN ELECTED GOVERNOR--HE AUTHOR BECOMES STATE PRINTER--INAUGURATION OF THE PRINTING OF SCHOOL TExT-BOOKS BY THE STATE--THE ABUSES OF THE SCHOOL-BOOK RING THAT LED UP TO IT--A SKETCH OF THE CAREER OF GOVERNOR STONEMAN--HIS SAD DEATH</P>
006.sgm:<P>In 1882 an election was to be held for State officers.  The course pursued by General George Stoneman as Railroad Commissioner had made him very popular, and when the Democratic convention met at San Jos&eacute; he received the nomination for Governor.  He was elected by the largest majority any Governor had received from the time that Leland Stanford was elected in 1861.</P>
006.sgm:<P>On his arrival in Sacramento he appointed me to the position of Superintendent of State Printing, and during the next four years my duties required me to live at the State capital.  One of the most important measures adopted by the Legislature during Governor Stoneman's administration was a law requiring the State printing office to print the textbooks for the common schools.  This law was passed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>I was called upon by the Legislature to make a report on the approximate cost the books could be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>In order to comply with the provisions of the law, I went East, and secured presses and machinery of the most approved make, a large and complete book-binding plant, and an electrotyping outfit that enabled me to duplicate with plates the pages of all the text-books.  When the establishment was in condition to proceed with the work, the State Board of Education was ready to furnish copy, and the new departure in school books was inaugurated. Now, after over a decade of experience in furnishing text-books for the common schools by the State, the plan is generally approved by all who have been in position to observe its working.  It accomplished, almost from the beginning, the reform of the abuses that had so deeply entrenched themselves in the common school system, and purified it of the dangerous corruptions that were fastening upon it. Parents are now enabled to get the books at nearly cost price, and they are protected against the frequent and onerous changes which the greed of the school-book ring were in position to bring about.</P>
006.sgm:<P>If the administration of Governor Stoneman had accomplished no other great public object than the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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006.sgm:<P>Although the State of California has been peculiarly fortunate in her Governors, rn their strict integrity and in the conscientious discharge of their duties, she never had an Executive whose honesty was more immaculate and whose aspirations were more earnestly enlisted in the advancement and the welfare of his State. He was not a keen, sharp man; but he was a man of noble purposes, true as steel, and steadfast in his determination to do the right thing according to his lights. His weaknesses were those of a loyal and unsuspicious nature. He was too apt to be imposed upon by designing men who had wormed themselves into his confidence. He was slow to believe in the perversity of human nature, and clung to false friends long after a shrewd, sharp man would have "whistled them off, and sent them down the wind to prey at fortune." A nature like his is lovely, but it is liable to be imposed upon, and when it holds a place of power and patronage it is sure to become the shining mark of the wiles and machinations of the most worthless of mankind.</P>
006.sgm:<P>Governor Stoneman came to California as a lieutenant in the army in 1847.  He held his command during the excitement consequent on the discovery of gold, disdaining to follow the mercenary example of many officers who resigned that they might <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>At the close of the war, he was appointed to the military Governorship of Virginia, and afterwards he was sent to Arizona as Military Governor of that Department.  He retired afterwards on half pay with the rank of Colonel, and went to Los Angeles, of which he had pleasant memories when he was stationed there during the Mexican War.  He bought the fine ranch of Los Robles, and became for a number <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>It is sad to think that Governor Stoneman, after a career so distinguished and services so valuable to his country and his chosen State, should have closed it far away from the scenes of the campaigns of his youth, his civic successes in mature life and the beautiful retreat in San Gabriel Valley where he fondly hoped to spend his declining years.  At a time when his advanced age and precarious health were entitled to the hand of affection to smooth his restless pillow and the voice of love to soothe his fretful sorrows, he wandered forth to face the inclement rigors of the Eastern winters, and to spend a few weary years in uncongenial circles, until the welcome messenger of eternal repose came to his relief and closed the balance sheet of a human ledger in which were recorded numberless deeds of noble note and not a single act of meanness towards his fellow-man.  May eternal sunshine light his brave and gentle spirit to the realms of endless peace!</P>
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006.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIII</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>CONCLUSION--A CONTRAST BETWEEN TWO REMARKABLE PERIODS--THE CONQUISTADORS AND THE ARGONAUTS</P>
006.sgm:<P>On that eventful Friday morning in October, 1492, when Columbus, from the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Santa Maria</HI>
006.sgm:, gazed upon the first spot of American land ever beheld by European eyes, a new and wonderful field was opened to speculative thought and to the spirit of adventure and enterprise.  The thirst for gold animated the rage for discovery, and up to the time of the death of Columbus, twelve years later, the islands known as the Antilles had been added to the Spanish crown, and the eastern coast of America, as far south as the Straits of Magellan, had been partially explored.  In this interval Pedro Alvarez Cabral had raised from his deck by an accident of navigation the rich coast of Brazil, and proceeding along its shore for several days he was gradually led to believe that a country so extensive must form part of a vast continent. Columbus had, in the meantime, explored the Spanish Main from Yucatan to Carthagena, and Martin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>On the death of Columbus a new line of adventurers arose.  Some of them were men of illustrious families but impaired fortunes--men who had displayed soldiership in the wars on the continent, and who were seized with the ambition to carve out fame and fortune with their swords in the New World. Hernan Cortez, who stands at the head of this group of adventurers, both for his merit as 8 leader and his sagacity as a ruler, according to the methods of his kind and his time, became master of Mexico, after one of the most audacious invasions in the history of the world.</P>
006.sgm:<P>The Isthmus of Darien, after it had been successfully crossed by Vasco Nu&ntilde;ez de Balboa, opened an easy channel to a crowd of adventurers to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Thus we find that in less than thirty years from the time of the discovery of the New World, the spirit of adventure and the prowess of the Spanish arms had opened to the most enterprising people of Europe some of the richest and most inviting regions of the American continent.  The impetus that had been given to the desire to acquire wealth by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:great quantities of gold brought into the national refineries from the mines of Hispaniola, or Hayti, was immeasurably accelerated by the boundless riches of Mexico and Peru; and when the conquests of Cortez and Pizarro were followed by the arrival at Cadiz of ships laden with precious ingots, the lust of avarice was fanned into a flame which set all Spain ablaze, and communicated its burning fever to every civilized nation.  "When wealth," says one of the historians of this interesting period, "is acquired by the slow accretions derived from the hand of industry, or accumulated from the gradual gains of commerce, the means employed are so proportioned to the end attained that there is nothing to strike the imagination and little to urge on the active powers of the mind to uncommon effort.  But when large fortunes are obtained almost instantaneously--when gold and silver and costly gems are procured in exchange for baubles--when the countries which produce these rich prizes are defended only by weak and naked savages, and can be seized by the first bold invader, objects so singular and alluring are calculated to arouse a wonderful spirit of enterprise; and it is not astonishing that the Spanish, when they found easy access to these vast regions of wealth, rushed with headlong ardor into the new path which led to fortune."  The period of romantic valor struggling with incredible hardships, and overcoming obstacles which would have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>It is remarkable that the irrepressible energy of the gold-hunters of that excited period limited its searching explorations northward to the territory now known as Arizona.  Viceroy Mendoza, in 1540, ordered an exploration of that region, but the great Colorado Desert seems to have proven a barrier to the restless spirit of adventure, and probably that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>The popular mind of the most progressive and prosperous people on this continent had long forgotten the story of the gold-hunters of the sixteenth century when it was suddenly startled by the report of the discovery of rich and extensive mines in California--a country about as remote and mythical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>It is astonishing how quickly a new society adjusts itself to its constituents and to its surroundings.  The great mass of people suddenly thrown together in the mines in 1849 became homogeneous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:at once.  No sooner was a camp formed than a patriotic community of interest sprang up among its denizens.  There was no written law by which the society of the mines was governed; neither were there regularly constituted magistrates and officers.  And yet law and order were there in their most substantial sense.  By common consent, some patriarch, whose unchilled ambition had prompted him to follow the army of adventurers, would be singled out as the alcalde, and the jury system, so inseparable from Anglo-Saxon jurisprudence, would fill out the measure of equal and exact justice.Crime was promptly punished and justice was weighed in scales as true as ever poised from the impartial hands of Astrea.  The vulgar vice of larceny was rare; but when detected its punishment was swift and severe.  Assaults and combats were more frequent; but as every man considered his personal safety in his own keeping, and as an attack surely meant blood, serious quarrels were rare.  It was not safe for a noted desperado to go outside his own class to indulge in his propensity, hence deeds of sanguinary encounter were almost wholly limited to gamblers and the desperate characters who consorted with them.  Person and property were far safer in the mines in 1849 than they are at this day in our cities with all the expensive machinery of constituted authority to protect them. Riches that comes to us with wings flies away on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>We have now glanced at two remarkable periods in the annals of our continent.  The first, the period of discovery and conquest, animated by the greed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Animated by the same desire for gold, the pioneers of the second period carried with them a civilization <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:</BODY><BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
006.sgm:<P>A<LB>Adams &amp; Co., 129, 136, 150, 151<LB>Adams Express Co., 100, 103<LB>Afghanistan, 326<LB>Ajax, 214<LB>Alameda, 150, 259, 312, 313<LB>Alamo ranch, 248<LB>Alcade, 47, 50, 342<LB>Alcatraz, 28<LB>Alexander, 336<LB>Aliso, 262<LB>Alleghanians, 135<LB>Almagro, 27, 259, 337<LB>Alta California, 92, 112, 226, 246<LB>Alta, the, 226<LB>Alvarado sugarworks, 319<LB>Amador, 132, 133<LB>Amazon, 336<LB>Ambulances, 210<LB>American river, 96,317<LB>American Revolution, 202<LB>Americans, 20, 21, 30, 46, 48, 56, 106, 216, 269, 341<LB>Americans, South, 108<LB>Anthony, 181<LB>Antil1es, 335<LB>Antonio, 280<LB>Arcade Depot, 291<LB>Arcadia Block, 259<LB>Argonauts, 26<LB>Arizona, 184, 333, 339<LB>Arlington Heights, 209<LB>Arroyo Seco, 286<LB>Ashe, Dr., 156<LB>Assassination, 152, 153<LB>Assembly, 40<LB>Association of Veterans, 120<LB>Astrea, 342<LB>Atahualpa, 337<LB>Atchison, Topeka &amp; Santa F&eacute;, 326<LB>Atlanta, 150, 333<LB>Atlantic, 90, 91, 212, 327<LB>Attorney General, 269<LB>Auction Lunch, 185, 189<LB>Austin, Judge, 263<LB>Australia, 93, 215, 241 <LB>Avalon, 266<LB>Ayers, James J., 160<LB>Ayers, J. J. &amp; Co., 160<LB>Aylette, Dr., 173, 175, 176<LB>B<LB>Bagley, George T., 103<LB>Baker, Gen. E. D., 164, 165, 172, 177, 203, 204<LB>Balboa, Vasco Nunez de, 336<LB>Baldwin, E. J., 273<LB>Baldwin Hotel, 236 <LB>Balisarda, 247 Belize, 12 <LB>Ballonna, 265 <LB>Ball's Bluff, 164, 177 <LB>Bank of California, 271 <LB>Bank Exchange, 189 <LB>Bank failure, 150, 271, 395 <LB>Banning, Gen. Phineas, 260, 299-301<LB>Baptists, 261<LB>Barbary coast, 259<LB>Barclay st., 124<LB>Bard, Thomas R., 248</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>349</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>350</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Confederacy, 120,333<LB>Confederates, 197<LB>Conflagration, 94, 147<LB>Congregationalists, 261<LB>Congress, 90, 115, 120, 121, 193, 199, 229, 267, 308, 319<LB>Conness, John, 143<LB>Connor, Col. P., 184<LB>Conquistadors, 26<LB>Consumnes river, 144<LB>Constitutional Convention, 306-314<LB>Coon, Judge, 172<LB>Cora, 154<LB>Cordilleras, 13<LB>Corinto, 17<LB>Cortez, Hernan, 336<LB>Corwin, Tom, 204-206<LB>Costa Rica, 212<LB>Cotton, 291<LB>County Hospital, 110, 262<LB>Courier, 98<LB>Court House, 256, 258, 261, 277<LB>Court of Sessions, 164<LB>Court st., 254, 255<LB>Crabbe, Henry A., 321<LB>Crane, Judge, 98<LB>Cremony, John C., 152<LB>Crimea, 322<LB>Criminal libel, 164<LB>Crittenden, A. P., 116<LB>Crocker, Charles, 277-279<LB>Cromwell, 202<LB>Cuba, 295<LB>Cubagua, 339<LB>Cullaean, 256, 341<LB>Curry, John, 116<LB>Cuyas, Senor, 255<LB>D<LB>Daily Courier, 92<LB>Daily Hawaiian Herald, 227, 230, 232<LB>Daily Herald, 155<LB>Daily News, 263<LB>Daily Star, 263, 269<LB>Davidson, Mt., 198, 235<LB>Deadman's Island, 266, 267<LB>De Courcey, H. A., 100, 112, 113<LB>Delaware, 300<LB>Democrat, The, 96<LB>Democratic Convention, 119, 121, 122<LB>Democratic party, 116, 119, 121, 122, 196<LB>Democrats, 116, 120, 178, 196, 197, 319<LB>Den, Dr., 248<LB>Denim, John, 262<LB>Denver, J. W., 113, 120<LB>De Young, Charles, 288<LB>Diamond Springs, 142<LB>Dillard, Judge, 248<LB>Director of the Mint, 182<LB>Dispatch, The, 242<LB>District Court, 167<LB>Don Alfonso, 74<LB>Don Benito, 303<LB>Don Juan, 296,298,299<LB>Don Juan Temple, 254<LB>Don Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, 246<LB>Don Pablo de la Guerra, 246, 247<LB>Double Spring, 41<LB>Douglass, Senator David F., 49<LB>Douglass &amp; Ralner's ranch, 40, 52<LB>Douglas, Stephen A., 308<LB>Douglass &amp; Thorne, 39<LB>Dowling, Capt., 185,187<LB>Downey Block, 254<LB>Downey, Gov. John G., 192-196, 271, 272<LB>Driscoll, Jerry, 226<LB>Dublin, 127<LB>Dudley, Allen P., 103, 125, 127<LB>Dudley, Wm. L., 103</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>351</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Duel, 86, 112, 113, 171, 173, 176, 178<LB>Dupont st., 31<LB>E<LB>Early, Gen., 200, 201<LB>East Indies, 336<LB>East Los Angeles, 261<LB>El Dorado county, 96<LB>Eherhardt, 236, 238, 239<LB>Eldridge dramatic troupe, 143<LB>Elko, 236,237<LB>El Molino, 268<LB>Encino, 286<LB>Endicott, 49, 58, 63<LB>Enterprise, Virginia City, 226, 235<LB>Essex Market, 254<LB>Estill, James, 171<LB>Estremadura, 74<LB>Estudillos, 159<LB>Europe, 215, 262, 271, 281, 336, 337,341<LB>Evans, Albert S., 166<LB>Evening Bulletin, 151<LB>Evening Express, 263, 271<LB>Evening Picayune, 85, 92<LB>Ex-convicts, 93<LB>Executive Committee, 56, 157<LB>Explosion, 11, 12<LB>F<LB>Fash's store, 64-67<LB>Farmers and Merchants Bank, 271, 272<LB>Feather river, 96<LB>Fetiz, 19, 32<LB>Ferdinand, 339<LB>Ferguson, Senator W. I., 171<LB>Fiddletown, 139<LB>Field, Justice, 280<LB>Fifth st., 255<LB>Figoeroa st., 259<LB>Filhert st., 29<LB>Fire, 94-96, 98, 147<LB>First st., 257, 258<LB>Flood, James C., 185, 190<LB>Florence, 260, 318<LB>Folsom, A. J., 85, 86<LB>Folsom st., 149<LB>Fonseca, Gulf of, 15, 17<LB>Foote, W. W., 241<LB>Forbes, J. W., 240, 241<LB>Forney, Capt., 248<LB>Forster, Peter B., 160<LB>Fort st., 261<LB>Fourrier system, 42<LB>Fourth District, 267<LB>Fourth st., 31<LB>Fox sisters, 136<LB>France, 202<LB>Francisco, 75, 78<LB>Franklin st., 256, 257<LB>Frazer river, 160, 167, 168<LB>Freeion, Judge, 164<LB>Fremont, John C., 115<LB>Freshet, 146<LB>Front st., 153<LB>Furman, George, 259<LB>Furrey's store, 257<LB>G<LB>Galveston, 11, 13<LB>Gamblers, 35, 108<LB>Gambling saloons, 37, 73, 75, 100, 143, 240, 316<LB>Gatewood, T. Jeff, 103<LB>Geary st., 31<LB>Gelwicks, D. W., 96, 97<LB>George, Henry, 241<LB>Georgetown, 144, 210, 261<LB>German Democrat, 173<LB>Gift, Col., W. W., 84<LB>Gill, Dr., 57, 58<LB>Gilbert, Edward, 112, 115, 120<LB>Glasgow, 221<LB>Goat Island, 185<LB>Gold, 41-45, 67, 70-74, 80, 85, 88, 96, 100-102, 103, 129, 133, 134, 164, 165, 168, 182, 198, 316, 337-341, 343-345</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>352</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Golden Gate, 27, 233, 340<LB>Goodman, Judge, 226,234<LB>Gordon (George), Association, 21,212<LB>Government, 183,  213, 228-230, 236, 267, 268, 280, 281, 301<LB>Granada, 837<LB>Grant ave., 81,202,213<LB>Grass Valley, 98<LB>Graves, Wm. J., 247<LB>Gray, Col., 277-279<LB>Graytown, 211<LB>Great Britain, 13, 202, 212, 228<LB>Greek, George, 286<LB>Greenbacks, 181, 182<LB>Greenbaum's store, 230<LB>Greenhough, Miss, 135<LB>Griffin, Dr., 261<LB>Guatemala, 13<LB>Gulf, 90, 210<LB>Gunnybags, Fort, 154, 157<LB>Gwin mine, 129<LB>Gwin, Wm. M., 115, 121, 122, 170, 171, 193<LB>H<LB>Haight, ex-Gov. H. H., 312<LB>Hamilton, 235, 237, 239, 240<LB>Hamilton, Henry, 100, 114, 227, 256, 269, 271<LB>Hammond, Capt., 16, 27, 33, 38<LB>Hammond, Dr., 173<LB>Hanalei, 221<LB>Hancock, Gen., 201<LB>Hangtown, 96, 142, 143<LB>Happy Valley, 128, 266<LB>Harris, Emil, 286,287<LB>Haskell, Leonidas, 173, 175<LB>Hatfield, Capt., 222<LB>Hawaii, 228, 230<LB>Hawaiian Is., 217, 218, 230<LB>Hay, Col., 206, 207, 209<LB>Hayes, Cal. Thomas, 159,173<LB>Hayes Valley, 32, 159, 168<LB>Hayne, Julia D., 161<LB>Hayti, 338<LB>Hellman, I. W., 271, 272<LB>Henne, 254<LB>Herald, 155, 158, 159, 227, 228, 230, 232, 271<LB>Herbert, Philip T., 120<LB>Herrick's hotel, 143<LB>Hewitt, Gen. E. E., 259<LB>Heydenfeldt, Elcan, 117<LB>Hicks, 258<LB>Hidalgo, 74-78<LB>Higgins, D. W., 160<LB>Hill, the, 91, 100, 106, 114, 125, 128, 130, 136, 137, 146, 147<LB>Hispaniola, 338<LB>Hoge, Joseph P., 808<LB>Hollenbeck hotel, 258<LB>Hollister, Col. W. W., 245<LB>Honduras, 12-14<LB>Honolulu,  214-219,  221-223, 226-233<LB>Hopkins, 156, 157<LB>Houghton, Col. James G., 295, 323-326<LB>Houghton, Col. S. O., 267<LB>House  of  Representatives, 120<LB>Howard, Col. James G., 295<LB>Howard, Gen. Volney E., 155, 242, 308, 309<LB>Hull, Pat, 98, 99<LB>Huntington, C. P., 67<LB>Hutchison family, 130<LB>I<LB>I st., 316<LB>Idaho, 235<LB>Illinois, 308<LB>Incas, 337<LB>Indians, 12, 14, 60, 101, 114, 115, 184, 333<LB>Indigo, 13<LB>Inland Empire, 238, 241</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>353</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Inyo, 259<LB>lowa Cabins, 44, 48, 50<LB>Isabelia, 339<LB>Islands, Hawallan, 224, 226-230, 232<LB>Isthmus of Panama, 11<LB>Isthmus of Darien, 336<LB>Italians, 106<LB>J<LB>J st., 316<LB>Jack, 81-84<LB>Jackson, 132, 146, 166<LB>Jacobins, 282<LB>Jail, 257<LB>James, Col., 78, 79<LB>Jans, Anake, 123<LB>January, W. A., 96<LB>Jenkins, Peter, 94<LB>Jobson, Charles F., 160<LB>Johnson, A. J., 286, 288, 289<LB>Johnson, Capt. George, 288<LB>Johnson, Gov. I. Neely, 116, 155<LB>Johnston, Gen. Alhert Sidney, 179-181<LB>Johnston, George Pen, 97, 171<LB>Jones, Mrs. 256<LB>Jos&eacute; Castro, 17, 83, 38<LB>Josephine, 134, 135<LB>Judges of the  Several Instances, 60<LB>K<LB>Kamehamehas, 221<LB>Kanakas, 108, 181, 216<LB>Kauai, island of, 220<LB>Kearney, Dennis, 281, 282<LB>Kearney st., 29, 81, 93, 156<LB>Keller, Don Mateo, 290-295<LB>Kemble, Ed., 112, 114<LB>Kercheval, Albert F., 302<LB>Kern Co., 133<LB>Keno, 143<LB>Kewen, Ajax, 84<LB>Kewen, Col. E. J. C., 84,267-269<LB>Keystone mine, 132, 133<LB>Kimball, Frank, 326, 327<LB>King, Judge A. J., 263<LB>King of Bavaria, 99<LB>King, James, of Wm., 15-153<LB>Koa wood, 218<LB>L<LB>Laforge, A. B., 69, 103, 107, 108<LB>Lahaina, 229<LB>Lake st., 168<LB>Landers, James, 259<LB>Lansfeldt, Countess of, 98<LB>Larkin st., 168<LB>Latham, Gov. Milton S., 192, 193<LB>Latins, 110<LB>La Union, 15, 16<LB>Laura Anne, 23, 124, 184, 186<LB>Law and Order, 154-156, 160<LB>Lees, 205, 209<LB>Leavenworth st., 31<LB>Leck, 254<LB>Legislature, 115-117, 119, 182, 190, 192, 242, 254, 291, 304, 306, 321, 329, 330<LB>Lehman, George, 261, 262<LB>Lemons, Frank, 51<LB>Lewis, McElroy &amp; Rand, 256<LB>Libelle, S. S., 215<LB>Lick House, 31<LB>Lime Point, 27<LB>Lincoln, Pres., 200-208,308<LB>Lind, Jenny, 92<LB>Lippincott, Ben, 117, 118<LB>Lispenard st., 124<LB>Lloyd, Reuben H., 79<LB>Loehr, Dr., 173<LB>Long Tom, 73, 101<LB>Long Wharf, 148<LB>Lottery, 68<LB>Lopez, 78, 295<LB>Los Angeles, 184, 194, 227, 242, 243, 254-273, 276-277, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>354</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>355</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Montgomery st., 30, 32, 33, 91, 92, 94, 148, 189<LB>Morgan, Harry, 110<LB>Moriarty, Mrs., 127<LB>Morning Call, The, 161-164<LB>Morrison, Judge, 243<LB>Mosquitoes, 38, 39<LB>Motts, T. D., 258<LB>Moulder, Andrew J., 158<LB>Moulton, Ben, 136,137<LB>Mudge, 107, 108<LB>Mud Springs, 139<LB>Mulford, Dave, 103<LB>Murietta, Joaquin, 284<LB>Murray, Hugh, 116<LB>Murray, Lindley, 127<LB>Murray, Walter, 247<LB>N<LB>Nadeau, 257, 259, 260, 318, 319<LB>Naides, Estabon, 109<LB>Napier, Sir Charles, 326<LB>National Bank, 258<LB>National Guard, 183, 197<LB>Natoma Falls, 317<LB>Negroes, 12, 167<LB>Nevada, 184, 190, 197-223, 235<LB>New Amsterdam, 124<LB>New Helvetia, 298<LB>New High st., 257, 261<LB>New Mexico, 303<LB>New Orleans, 11<LB>New York, 99, 123, 124, 154, 200, 292, 333<LB>Newell, Wm. H., 163, 165<LB>Niantic, 32,33<LB>Nicaragua, 17, 21, 22, 84, 211-213, 269, 337<LB>Nifio, Alonzo, 336<LB>No. 33, Secretary, 156<LB>Nob Hill, 280, 282<LB>North Beach, 28, 149<LB>Noyes, Capt., 32<LB>Nugent, John, 92, 155, 158<LB>Nuggets, 72, 100, 134, 136<LB>O<LB>Oakland, 84, 149, 150<LB>"Oblivion?" 302<LB>O'Brien, 185-188, 190<LB>O'Connell, Daniel, 127<LB>"Ode to the Sun," 302<LB>Ohio, 210<LB>O'Meara, John, 171<LB>Omoa, 13<LB>O'Neill's, 55, 67<LB>Oregon, 33, 333<LB>Overland R. R., 120<LB>Oysters, 149, 150, 292<LB>P<LB>Pacific, 13, 17, 20,90, 121,225, 226, 229<LB>Pacific Dept., 180<LB>Pacific Mail, 123<LB>Pacific News, 92<LB>Palestine, 225<LB>Panama, 11, 16, 19, 21, 22, 91, 114, 337, 339<LB>Para, 336<LB>Parker House, 129<LB>Paris, 282<LB>Parrott, John, 148<LB>Parsons, Levi, 193<LB>Pearl st., 259<LB>Pearls, 339<LB>Pedro Alvarez Cabral, 335<LB>People's party, 157<LB>Perkins, Eli, 281<LB>Pericy, 171, 172<LB>Peru, 114, 337-339<LB>Peruvians, 106<LB>Philadelphia, 21, 22, 207, 208, 292<LB>Philips Block, 257<LB>Ph&oelig;nix, 106<LB>Pickering &amp; Finch, 241<LB>Pies, 64, 65<LB>Pilfering, 164<LB>Pinzon, Martin Alonzo, 336<LB>Pio Pico, 255, 257, 262,  324</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>356</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>Pirote prisoners, 68, 69, 103<LB>Pixley, Frank, 166<LB>Pizarro, Francisco, 337, 338<LB>Pitzer, Jesse D., 127<LB>Placerville, 96, 143<LB>Platt's Hall, 182<LB>Point of Rocks, 285<LB>Poker, 65<LB>Police, Chief of, 172<LB>Police Court, 172<LB>Pollock, Sergeant, 106<LB>Porto Bello, 339<LB>Portsmouth Square, 29, 35, 93, 110, 177<LB>Potomac, 200, 210<LB>Potter beds, 303<LB>Potts, J. W., 302<LB>Powell st., 29<LB>Pratt, Judge, 167<LB>Presbyterians, 261<LB>Presidio, 32, 86<LB>Price, James, 219<LB>Princeville  Plantation,  220, 221<LB>Printers, 92<LB>Protective Tariff, 121<LB>Public Balance, 92, 98<LB>Puente, 273, 287<LB>Puerto la Union, 13, 15-17, 27<LB>Punishments, 59<LB>Q<LB>Quartz, 45, 132, 133, 198<LB>Queen's hospital, 218<LB>Quicksilvered copper coins, 14<LB>Quicksilver, 73<LB>R<LB>Raccoon straits, 184, 185<LB>Raffour, M., 247, 248<LB>Raglan, Lord, 322<LB>Rainer, 52<LB>Ramirez, 262<LB>Ranchito, 262<LB>Randolph, Edmund, 116, 155<LB>Rattlesnake Is., 267<LB>Realejo, 16-22, 32, 184, 212<LB>Reciprocity Treaty, 230<LB>Reduction Works, 260<LB>Reed's California command, 209<LB>Reese, Michael, 196<LB>Reno, 236<LB>Repetto, 285, 286<LB>Republican party, 196, 199, 267<LB>Requena st., 259<LB>Reynolds, Judge, 51, 57, 58, 60, 62<LB>Reynolds, Wm. H., 320, 322-326<LB>Richard the Third, 104<LB>Richards, Jarrett, 248<LB>Richardson, U. S. Marshal, 154<LB>Rich Gulch, 72<LB>Richmond, 28, 333<LB>Rincon Hill, 30, 32, 128<LB>Rincon Point, 32<LB>Rivers, 104<LB>Rivas, 84<LB>Rocker, 43, 72, 73, 81<LB>Roller, 114, 115<LB>Round House, 261<LB>Rowland, John, 303<LB>Rowland,  Sheriff, Wm.  R., 285-287, 289<LB>Russell, A. C., 85, 86<LB>Russia, 322<LB>Russ Garden, 149<LB>Russian Hill, 32, 148<LB>S<LB>Sacramento, 91, 96, 97, 112, 117, 119, 136, 156, 170, 171, 197, 243, 244, 268, 289, 295, 306,314-319, 329<LB>Sacramento river, 38, 297, 298<LB>Sacramento Union, 224, 296<LB>Safeguard, The, 241<LB>Sailors, 92<LB>Saint Anne's Valley, 31<LB>Salmon, 186, 187</P>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>357</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>358</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
006.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>359</PRINTPGNO>
006.sgm:<P>U<LB>Union, 90, 179, 180, 183, 184, 194, 197, 276, 303, 315, 328, 341.<LB>Union Hotel, 132.<LB>Union Pacific, 236.<LB>United States, 218, 225, 228, 276, 328.<LB>United States army, 85.<LB>United States Detective Corps., 203.<LB>United States Senate, 115, 170.<LB>United States Supreme Court, 280.<LB>University Tract, 299, 310.<LB>Utah, 184, 191, 235,236, 260.<LB>V<LB>Vallejo, 117.<LB>Valparaiso, 62, 63.<LB>Van Ness, Mayor, 168.<LB>Vasco de Gama, 336.<LB>Vasquez Tiburcio, 284, 288, 289.<LB>Velasquez, 21.<LB>Ventura, 249, 252, 285, 288.<LB>Venezuela, 336.<LB>Vigilance Committee, 94, 152, 153, 155, 158, 159, 161.<LB>Villette, Marquis of, 282.<LB>Vineyard, 291.<LB>Virgin Bay, 213.<LB>Virginia, 209, 333.<LB>Virginia City, 198, 214, 225, 226, 235, 236, 241.<LB>Visaila, 264.<LB>Volcano, 139.<LB>W<LB>Wade, Thomas B., 103.<LB>Waikiki road, 219.<LB>Waite, Chief Justice, 299.<LB>Walker, Gen. Wm., 84, 155, 969, 996-299.<LB>Wall st., 183.<LB>Warner, J. J., 296-299.<LB>Warren st., 126.<LB>Washington, 159,170,180,201, 203, 205, 208, 210, 229, 230.<LB>Washington, Col., B. F. 97<LB>Washington, Gen., 202.<LB>Washington Market, 185, 189.<LB>Washington st., 29, 30, 185, 188.<LB>Wash Trahern, 68.<LB>Waterspouts, 23.<LB>Watson, Judge, 117, 118.<LB>Watson &amp; Love, 164.<LB>Wheat, 262.<LB>Whigs, 119-121, 321.<LB>White, Dr. T. J., 268.<LB>White House, 203, 204, 206.<LB>Whiting, Capt., 126.<LB>White Pine, 235-237, 241.<LB>Widney, Judge, R. M., 244.<LB>Wiley, Sheriff H., 258, 259.<LB>Wilmington, 184, 250, 259, 300, 301.<LB>Wilson, 258.<LB>Wilson, Benjamin D., 303.<LB>Wilson's Peak, 304.<LB>Wilson, S. M., 309, 310.<LB>Winans, J. W., 313.<LB>Wine, 292.<LB>Woodliff, Col., 82-84.<LB>Woods, I. C., 150.<LB>Workingmen's party, 320.<LB>Workman, W. H., 261, 273, 303.<LB>Wright, George W., 115.<LB>Wylie, Prime Minister, 221.<LB>Y<LB>Yaqui, 101.<LB>Yarrow, Baby Branscom, 131.<LB>Yucatan, 12, 335.<LB>Z<LB>Zublin, Llewellyn, 160.</P>
007.sgm:<TEI2>
007.sgm:<TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94">
007.sgm:<FILEDESC>
007.sgm:<TITLESTMT>
007.sgm:<TITLE>calbk-007
007.sgm:<TITLE>The Indians of Los Angeles County: Hugo Reid's letters of 1852.  Edited and annotated by
007.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years,
007.sgm:<RESP>
007.sgm:<ROLE>Selected and converted.
007.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress
007.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT>
007.sgm:<P>Washington, 1993.
007.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.
007.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.
007.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to
007.sgm:<SOURCEDESC>
007.sgm:<LCCN>68-8964 r923
007.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.
007.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 21102
007.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication">
007.sgm:<FRONT>
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>
007.sgm:<CAPTION>
007.sgm:<P>Hugo Reid at Rancho Santa Anita.
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>
007.sgm:<P>SOUTHWEST MUSEUM PAPERS
007.sgm:<P>NUMBER TWENTY-ONE
007.sgm:<P>The Indians of
007.sgm:<P>Los Angeles County
007.sgm:<P>Hugo Reid's Letters
007.sgm:<P>of 1852
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Edited and Annotated by
007.sgm:<P>ROBERT E. HEIZER
007.sgm:<P>SOUTHWEST MUSEUM
007.sgm:<P>HIGHLAND PARK, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90042
007.sgm:<P>1968
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Copyright 1968
007.sgm:<P>SOUTHWEST MUSEUM
007.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES, CALIF.
007.sgm:<P>Library of Congress Catalog Card Number:  68-8964
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Printed by
007.sgm:<P>SOUTHLAND PRESS, INC.
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v
007.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc">
007.sgm:<HEAD>CONTENTS
007.sgm:<P>FORWORD,
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">by Carl Schaefer Dentzel
007.sgm:<HSEP>vii
007.sgm:<LB>INTRODUCTION, 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">by Robert F. Heizer
007.sgm:<HSEP>1
007.sgm:<LB>THE HUGO REID LETTERS (I - XXII)
007.sgm:<HSEP>7
007.sgm:<LB>NOTES
007.sgm:<HSEP>105
007.sgm:<LB>REFERENCES
007.sgm:<HSEP>137
007.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill">
007.sgm:<HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS
007.sgm:<P>Hugo Reid at Rancho Santa Anita
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Frontispiece
007.sgm:<LB>The Hugo Reid Adobe in 1938
007.sgm:<HSEP>xii
007.sgm:<LB>Rogerio Rocha, Gabrielino Indian
007.sgm:<HSEP>6
007.sgm:<LB>Mrs. James Rosemyre, Gabrielino Indian
007.sgm:<HSEP>10
007.sgm:<LB>Jose Salvideo, Gabrielino Indian
007.sgm:<HSEP>18
007.sgm:<LB>Gabrielino Baskets
007.sgm:<HSEP>28
007.sgm:<LB>Gabrielino Throwing Sticks
007.sgm:<HSEP>62
007.sgm:<LB>Gabrielino Artifacts as Illustrated by Hoffman
007.sgm:<HSEP>104
007.sgm:<P><hsep>MAP<hsep><lb>
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">End papers
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii
007.sgm:<DIV> 
007.sgm:<HEAD>Foreword
007.sgm:<P>THE YEAR 1969 WILL MARK THE BICENTENNIAL OF THE settling of Alta California. 
007.sgm:<P>Of all the areas settled by Spain in North, Central and South America, California has
007.sgm:<P>History has been made swiftly on the West Coast.  Events that have taken centuries to
007.sgm:<P>It seems inconceivable that in little more a hundred years the original inhabitants of the area
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii
007.sgm:<P>Such an adaptation is difficult for any people to cope with.  To an undeveloped, primitive
007.sgm:<P>The old order, established and maintained under the Spanish and Mexicans, soon broke down
007.sgm:<P>Today it is difficult to conceive of a time when only Indians lived in California.  The nature of
007.sgm:<P>In the course of these swift-moving events and tumultuous times it is indeed noteworthy that
007.sgm:<P>For residents of a town known as "Queen of the Cow Counties" the people of Los Angeles in
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix
007.sgm:<P>Few areas in the United States which have witnessed the same sad transformation of history
007.sgm:<P>The Reid "Letters" naturally reflect many prejudices of the white man and of the people of his
007.sgm:<P>The settlement of Nueva California in 1769, with the introduction by the Spanish of their
007.sgm:<P>Because there has been somewhat of a stigma attached to the fact that a person was an
007.sgm:<P>Many tales are told of the great decline in Indian population which accompanied the break-up
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x
007.sgm:<P>Although Hugo Reid's letters have often been quoted and even reprinted several times, the
007.sgm:<P>The contrast between life in Los Angeles in 1969 and that of 1769 is so great as to be
007.sgm:<P>The Southwest Museum greatly appreciates the scholarly work of Dr. R. F. Heizer as
007.sgm:<P>The Automobile Club of Southern California and its outstanding publication, "Westways,"
007.sgm:<P>Hopefully, this Southwest Museum publication will add luster to California's Bicentennial
007.sgm:<P>CARL SCHAEFER DENTZEL
007.sgm:<P>Director
007.sgm:<P>Southwest Museum
007.sgm:<P>Los Angeles, California
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>
007.sgm:<P>The Indians of
007.sgm:<P>Los Angeles County
007.sgm:<P>HUGO REID'S LETTERS OF 1852
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>
007.sgm:<CAPTION>
007.sgm:<P>The Hugo Reid Adobe as it appeared in 1938.
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>Introduction
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">By
007.sgm:<P>THE GABRIELINO INDIANS were a tribe which occupied Los Angeles County south of
007.sgm:<P>Hugo Reid was born in Cardross, Scotland, in 1811, and left there at the age of eighteen. 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ayacucho
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">A Scotch Paisano
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Seventy-five Years in California
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ramona
007.sgm:<P>Reid became a rancher in Los Angeles and his fortunes prospered.  His headquarters were at
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Report of the Debate in the Convention
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">California in 1849
007.sgm:<P>The changes which soon followed the American seizure of California worked against Reid's
007.sgm:<P>We do not know why Reid took the time and trouble to write his letters on the Indians, but
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3
007.sgm:<P>Wilson wrote a very long report entitled "The Indians of Southern California" which he
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star
007.sgm:<P>If Reid had lived he might have succeeded Wilson, and in so doing would have been profitably
007.sgm:<P>The letters were first published in the 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4
007.sgm:<P>The letters were reprinted, though not very accurately, by Alexander S. Taylor in his
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">California Farmer and Journal of Useful Arts, Vol
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Bulletin of the Essex Institute
007.sgm:<P>Hoffman's version is of interest to us since he affirms that he reproduces the letters " 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">verbatim et literatim
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Star
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Star
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">California Farmer
007.sgm:<P>Reid's letters were next reprinted by Arthur M. Ellis in 1926, who acknowledges in his
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Star
007.sgm:<P>In order to make the content of Reid's letters a little more meaningful I have added some end
007.sgm:<P>A few photographs of Gabrielino and Fernande&ntilde;o survivors are included here since
007.sgm:<P>For further information on the Gabrielino Indians of Los Angeles County the reader is
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6
007.sgm:<CAPTION>
007.sgm:<P>Rogerio Rocha, Gabrielino Indian born in 1801 at Mission San Fernando.  Baptized in 1810,
007.sgm:<BODY>
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. I]
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Lodges
007.sgm:<P>Before the Indians belonging to the greater part of this county were known to the Whites,
007.sgm:<P><NOTE anchor.ids="n1">Reid is, of course, referring to the tribe called Gabrielino, so named after their
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tong-v&amacr;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tobikhar
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Kizh
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Kij
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tumangamalum
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Miyah'-hik-tchal-lop
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pahpi'-na-mo'-nam
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ataplili'sh
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Kisianos
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Kumitaraxam
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pavait
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">op. cit
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">i.e.
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Kinki
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">-mga
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">-nga
007.sgm:<P>Being related by blood and marriage, war was never carried on between them.  When war was
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n2">2.  Location of many of these villages is shown in the accompanying map, taken
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Yang-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Los Angeles
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n3">3.  In Mission San Gabriel baptism records this appears as Yanga, Yabit, or
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Sibag-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>San Gabriel
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n4">4.  In Mission San Gabriel baptism records this appears as Sibapet, Sibanga,
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">(California Farmer
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tobiscanga
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Toviscanga
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Isanthcag-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n5">5.  No definite or probable cognate occurs in the San Gabriel Mission baptismal
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Sisitcanog-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Pear Orchard
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n6">6.  Doubtfully identified with Siutasegena, Siutcabit and Siutcanga, from which
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">si
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">u
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">So nag-no
007.sgm:<HSEP>Mr. White's Farm
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Acurag-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>The presa
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n7">7.  Mission San Gabriel baptismal register has Acuranga and Acurabit entered 6
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">-nga, -ngna
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">-bit, -vit, -pet, -bet
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">-vit, -bit
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">-pet
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Asucsag-nas
007.sgm:<HSEP>Azuza
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n8">8.  Mission San Gabriel baptismal register shows this as Asucsabit, Acuzabit,
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Cucomog-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Cucamonga Farm
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n9">9.  Hoffman (1885:  2) renders this Cucumog-na.  In the San Gabriel Mission
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pasinog-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Rancho del Chino
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n10a n10b">10.  San Fernando Mission baptismal register gives this as Passenga,
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Achoiscomihabit
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Awig-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>La Puente
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n11">11.  Given by Hoffman (1885) as Awizna.  Otherwise perhaps identifiable with
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chokishg-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>The Saboneria
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Nacaug-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Carpenter's Farm
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pineug-na'
007.sgm:<HSEP>Santa Catalina Island
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n12">12.  Almost certainly a printer's error for Pimug-na.  Hoffman (1885) gives it
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pimocag-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Rancho de los Ybarras
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Toybipet
007.sgm:<HSEP>San Jose
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n13">13.  San Gabriel Mission baptismal register has 68 entries from 1784-1813 for
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Hutucg-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Santa Ana [Yorbes]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n14">14.  Mission San Gabriel baptismal register has 241 entries for a
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Aleupkig-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Santa Anita
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n15">15.  Written by Hoffman (1885) as Almpquia-na.
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Maug-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Rancho de los Felis
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n16">16.  Perhaps a printer's error.  Compare with San Fernando Mission baptismal
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Hahamog-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Rancho de los Verdugos
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n17">17.  Compare with San Gabriel baptismal record rancher&iacute;a, listed 35
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Cahueg-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Caliuenga
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n18">18.  Possibly identifiable with Cabuepet, Cabuenga, listed 20 times between
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pasecg-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>San Fernando
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Houtg-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Ranchito de Lugo
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n19">19.  May be the same as Jutucubit, Jutucunga, already (see note 14)
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Suang-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Suanga
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n20">20.  Probably the village entered in the San Gabriel baptismal records as
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pubug-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Alamitos
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n21">21.  Identifiable with the rancher&iacute;a called Pububit, or Puvuvit, listed 35
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tibahag-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Serritos
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n22">22.  Entered as Tibajabet, Tivajavet or Tiba on 23 occasions between
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chowig-na
007.sgm:<HSEP>Palos Verdes
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n23">23.  Perhaps Chaubit (or Chaubipet) entered 39 times between 1785-1813 in
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">California Farmer
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Sowvingt-ha
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Kinkipar
007.sgm:<HSEP>San Clemente Island
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Harasg-na
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n24">24.  No location is suggested for this place by Reid, and Hoffman (1885)
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ghalas-at
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Haras-nga
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">xax'a&scaron;at
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Haras-nga
007.sgm:<P>There were a great many more villages than the above, probably some forty;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">gna
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">na
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n25">
007.sgm:<P>Jurupa,
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Serranos
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mountaineers
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n26">
007.sgm:<P>That these names formerly had a signification there can be do doubt of.  But even the oldest
007.sgm:<P>The Chief of each Lodge took its name followed by 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ie
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Asucsagna
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Asucsagnie
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Sibanga, Sibavie
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n27">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ie
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ic. Asucsagna
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Asucsagnie
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Azucsagna
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Azucsavic
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Sibavie
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Sibapic
007.sgm:<P>The title of a Chief's eldest son was 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tomear
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Manlsar
007.sgm:<P>Their huts were made of sticks, covered in around with flag mats worked or platted, and each
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n28">28.  This is not indicated by the numbers of baptized Indians given in the
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">supra
007.sgm:<P>It probably may not be out of place here to remark, that this tribe had no distinguishing
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Cahuillas
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Cahuilla
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">master
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10
007.sgm:<CAPTION>
007.sgm:<P>Mrs. James Rosemyre, a Gabrielino woman. Photographed by C. Hart Merriam at
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. II]
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Language
007.sgm:<P>It is not the intention here either to compose a vocabulary of their words, nor yet a grammar
007.sgm:<P>They have a great many liquid sounds, and their gutturals are so softened down as to become
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">i
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ee, u
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">oo, e
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">a
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">fare, a
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">a
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">father, ay
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">i
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ire
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">gn
007.sgm:<P>1
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Puc&uacute;
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n29">29.  Hoffman (1885:  27-28) adds the lengthy and interesting note referring to
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>The herds of cattle and horses owned by the Missions were grazed in favorable localities,
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Bali
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">major domo
007.sgm:<LB> The stick is about twenty-four inches in length, and three-fourths of an inch in diameter,
007.sgm:<LB> Notched sticks were also used by the herders and laborers to record their accounts with the 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">major domo
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">reals
007.sgm:<LB> Other records were also examined by the writer, in which the authors had recourse to paper: 
007.sgm:<LB>When a rancher&iacute;a possessed cattle only, there was no necessity for notching the end
007.sgm:<LB>Tattooing was practised and nearly all of the older members of the tribe still bear faint lines
007.sgm:<LB>Knotted cords were used by some of these Indians, in business transactions, a custom
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">real
007.sgm:<LB></p>
007.sgm:<P>2
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Weh&eacute;
007.sgm:<LB>3
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">P&aacute;he
007.sgm:<LB>4
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Watz&aacute;
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n30">30.  Hoffman (1885) gives this as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Watzu
007.sgm:<P>5
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mah&aacute;r
007.sgm:<P>6
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pab&aacute;he
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n31">31.  Given by Hoffman as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Babahe
007.sgm:<P>7
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Watza cavi&aacute;
007.sgm:<P>8
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Weh&eacute;s Watz&aacute;
007.sgm:<P>9
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mah&aacute;r cavi&aacute;
007.sgm:<P>10
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Weh&eacute;s Mahar
007.sgm:<P>11
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Weh&eacute;s mah&aacute;r coy pucu
007.sgm:<P>12     
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">  Weh&eacute;s mah&aacute;r coy Weh&eacute;
007.sgm:<P>Once
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pucushe
007.sgm:<P>Twice
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Weh&eacute;s
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12
007.sgm:<P>3 times
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">P&aacute;hes
007.sgm:<P>4 times
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Watz&aacute;hes
007.sgm:<P>5 times
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mah&aacute;res
007.sgm:<P>10 times
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Weh&eacute;s mahares
007.sgm:<P>20
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Wehes wehes mahar
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n32">
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Wehez
007.sgm:<HSEP>wehez maghar (g
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">h
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pahez
007.sgm:<HSEP>wehez maghar
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Watzahez
007.sgm:<HSEP>wehez maghar
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mahares
007.sgm:<HSEP>wehez maghar
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">g
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">h
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">j
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">g
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">h
007.sgm:<P>30
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pahes wehes mahar
007.sgm:<P>40
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Watzahes wehes mahar
007.sgm:<P>50
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mahares wehes mahar
007.sgm:<P>100
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Wehes wehes mahares wehes mahar
007.sgm:<P>There is
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Woni
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n33">33.  Hoffman (1885:  4) adds to "There is", "There are."
007.sgm:<P>There is not
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Yahay
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n34">34.  Hoffman gives the native word as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Yahez
007.sgm:<P>Yes
007.sgm:<HSEP> 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Eh&eacute;
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n35">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ehez
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Star
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Wake
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Aunuco
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mitema
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Poana
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Yamte
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ycuaro
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Muro
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Poane
007.sgm:<P>No
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Hay
007.sgm:<P>I
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">N&oacute;ma
007.sgm:<P>Thou
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Oma
007.sgm:<P>He or she
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mane
007.sgm:<P>Man
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Wor&oacute;yt
007.sgm:<P>Woman
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Toc&oacute;r
007.sgm:<P>Boy
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Quiti
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n36">36.  Hoffman gives this as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Quit&eacute;
007.sgm:<P>Black
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Yupiha
007.sgm:<P>White
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Arawatay
007.sgm:<P>Red
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Qua&oacute;ha
007.sgm:<P>Blue
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Sacasca
007.sgm:<P>Yellow
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Payuhuwi
007.sgm:<P>Green
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tacape
007.sgm:<P>The Sun
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tamit
007.sgm:<P>The Moon
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Moar
007.sgm:<P>The Stars
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Zo&oacute;t
007.sgm:<P>Dog
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Woze
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13
007.sgm:<P>Coyote
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ytur
007.sgm:<P>Bear
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Hunar
007.sgm:<P>Deer
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Zucat
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n37">37.  Hoffman renders this 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Zacat
007.sgm:<P>And
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Coy
007.sgm:<P>Two examples of their verbs in the present, past, and future tenses, will suffice to show [their]
007.sgm:<P>I hear
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Non im nahacua
007.sgm:<P>Thou hearest
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">O-a nahacua
007.sgm:<P>He hears
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Man&eacute; nahacua
007.sgm:<P>I heard
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Non him nahacua
007.sgm:<P>Thou hearest
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">O-a him nahacua
007.sgm:<P>He heard
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mane him nahacua
007.sgm:<P>I shall hear
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Nop uom nahacua
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n38">38.  Hoffman gives the second native word as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">nom
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">uom
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Star
007.sgm:<P>Thou shalt hear
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">O-pam nahacua
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n39">39.  Hoffman gives the second native word as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">pom
007.sgm:<P>He shall hear
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mane pam nahacua
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Nou im sirauaj
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n40">40.  Hoffman gives the first native word as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Non
007.sgm:<P>Thou speakest
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">O-a sirauaj
007.sgm:<P>He speaks
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mane sirauaj
007.sgm:<P>I spoke
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Non him sirauaj
007.sgm:<P>Thou spokest
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">O-a him sirauaj
007.sgm:<P>He spoke
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mane him sirauaj
007.sgm:<P>I will speak
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Nop uom sirauaj
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n41">41.  Hoffman gives the second native word as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">nom
007.sgm:<P>Thou wilt speak
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">O-pam sirauaj
007.sgm:<P>He will speak
007.sgm:<HSEP>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mane pam sirauaj
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n42">42.  Hoffman gives the second native word as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">pom
007.sgm:<P>It will be preceived that neither the person or tense alter the verb, but the pronoun preceeding
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14
007.sgm:<P>Their language is simple, rich, and abounding in compound expressive terms.  Although they
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">to desire, to like, to possess, to regard, to have an affection for
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">to esteem
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Love
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n43">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">uisminoc
007.sgm:<P>Their innumerable stories are all legends, and more than half believed; being of incredible
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n44">44.  Kroeber (1925:  622-626) gives a brief survey of Gabrielino mythology.
007.sgm:<P>Their language has deteriorated so much since the conquest, that the present generation
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Bona, who
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. III]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n45">
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>The Santa In&eacute;z tongue is understood by the Indians of the Purissima.  Santa Barbara
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">l
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">l
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">alala
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">l
007.sgm:<LB>The Serranos generally employ a 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">t
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">r
007.sgm:<LB>Dakin (1939:  196) says that, after Reid wrote and published in 1852 his 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Letters
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">(California Farmer
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Government, Laws and Punishment
007.sgm:<HSEP>The government of the people was invested in the hands of their Chiefs:  each Captain
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n46">46.  Hoffman (1885:  7) adds to this sentence "descending from father to son,
007.sgm:<P>All prisoners of war, after being tormented in a most cruel manner, were invariably put to
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n47">
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>Three forms of war-clubs are given in Figures 2, 3 and 4.  They are all made of extremely
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">3
007.sgm:<LB>Fig. 4 is of the same length as the preceding; it has three sides, each face measuring four
007.sgm:<LB> The object represented in Fig. 5 was used as an accompaniment to the rattle, in dances. 
007.sgm:<P>If a quarrel ensued between two parties, the chief
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n48">48.  Hoffman says "chiefs."
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n49">49.  Hoffman says "distant."
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n50">50.  Hoffman says, in place of "associated", "in council."
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n51">51.  Hoffman does not say "both", but "the two captains."
007.sgm:<P>Whipping was never resorted to as a punishment; therefore all fines and sentences consisted in
007.sgm:<P>If a woman proved unfaithful to her husband, and he caught her in the act, he had a right to
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">him
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">he was at liberty to keep her
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n52">52.  Instead of "kill or wound", Hoffman says "put her to death."
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n53">53.  In place of the last phrase in this sentence Hoffman writes "and the
007.sgm:<P>Until the age of puberty, they were under the control of their parents; in default of these, of
007.sgm:<P>If a seer or wizard (they had no witches) 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Great Spirit
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">54
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n54">
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>Although they counted by moons, still they had another mode for long periods, which was to
007.sgm:<LB>They were not much given to travel, for they only relate of one who left his people and
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18
007.sgm:<CAPTION>
007.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Salvideo, a Gabrielino Indian whose father was born on Catalina Island. 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. IV]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n55">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">iv'at
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Religion and Creed
007.sgm:<P>"They believed in one God, the maker and creator of all things, whose name was (and is) held
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Qua-o-ar
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Y-yo-ha-rivg-nain
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">life
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">soul
007.sgm:<P>The world was at one time in a state of chaos, until God gave it its present formation; fixing it
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Seven Giants
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n56">56.  A widely held belief among California Indians is that earthquakes were
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n57">57.  The word 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tobohar
007.sgm:<P>It has been a current belief in this county, 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">remarkably clever, industrious man, chief
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">feathers
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">in honor of his memory;
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n58">58.  The eagle figures importantly in ritual among all Southern California
007.sgm:<P>Now, ten to one if an Indian at the present day be asked if they worship the Eagle as a god, he
007.sgm:<P>The porpoises were believed to be intelligent beings, created for the purpose of guarding the
007.sgm:<P>The owl was held in deep reverence, and supposed to predict death, by screeching near the
007.sgm:<P>The crows advised them when a stranger was coming on a visit.
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21
007.sgm:<P>They believed in no resurrection whatever; either in particular cases, or a general one; but the
007.sgm:<P>Each Lodge had a church, called 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Yobagnar
007.sgm:<P>The only ones admitted into the church, were the seers and captains, the adult male dancers,
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. V]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n59">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">L.A. Star
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>Father, mother, husband, son, daughter, face, hair, ear, tongue, mouth and friend, are words
007.sgm:<LB>Father, 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">nack
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ni nack
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">mo nack
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">a nack
007.sgm:<LB>Husband and wife.  If they have had children, instead of saying 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ni asum
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ni taliaisum
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">part of
007.sgm:<LB>All brothers older than the speaker are styled 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">apa; ni apa
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">apeitz; ni apeitz
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tahat
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">chichinabro
007.sgm:<LB> Face and eyes are expressed by the same word.
007.sgm:<LB>Ear, 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">nanah;
007.sgm:<LB>Snow and ice are the same.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tobagnar
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">lahur
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Caller
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Cabatcho
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Zizu
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ayopu-cushna
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Qua-o-ar
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">y-ro-ha-riv-gnina
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Food and Raiment
007.sgm:<HSEP>The animal food in use among them was deer meat, young coyotes, squirrels, badgers,
007.sgm:<HSEP>Acorns, after being divested of their shell, were dried, and pounded in stone mortars, put
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Islay
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mountain Cherry
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ciruela
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chia
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">grey
007.sgm:<P>The men wore no clothing, but the women in the interior had a deerskin wrapped round the
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n60">60.  Hoffman (1885:  29-30) provides a note of information on the flat curved
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>Rabbits were killed with the 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Makana
007.sgm:<LB>When viewing the weapon edgewise, it will be observed that considerable curve exists, but it
007.sgm:<LB>The weapon was thrown near the ground, so' as not to pass over a rabbit while it was
007.sgm:<LB>The curved throwing clubs are discussed by Kroeber (1925:  632), Davidson (1873) and
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n61">61.  The 1852 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">L.A. Star
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n62">62.  Mollusk shells rather than whale's teeth provided the main material for
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>The black beads referred to are made of dark, greenish black serpentine, some specimens
007.sgm:<LB>The shell beads were usually made of 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Haliotis
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tivola [i.e., Tivela]
007.sgm:<LB>Most of the shells required for use were obtained at the Santa Catalina Islands.  These, as
007.sgm:<P>During the season of flowers, the females and children decked themselves in splendor; not
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. VI]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n63">
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Marriages
007.sgm:<HSEP>Chiefs had 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">one, two or three wives
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">nineteenth cousin
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chia
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">bride's seed cake
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n64">64.  Plural wives for chiefs was also true for the Chumash (cf., Henshaw 1955: 
007.sgm:<P>A grand dance was of course given on the occasion, where might be seen warriors and
007.sgm:<P>The wife never visited her relations from that day forth, although they had undebarred 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27
007.sgm:<P>In case her "Lord" ill used her, and continued to beat her in a cruel manner, she gave advice
007.sgm:<P>The last case of bigamy or rather polygamy, was in one of the Chief's from Santa Catharine;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">three
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">first of
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Canoa
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Canoe:
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28
007.sgm:<CAPTION>
007.sgm:<P>Above:  Coiled basketry bowl, 13.75 inches in diameter, made at San Gabriel but date of
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. VII]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n65 n65b">65.  This is Hoffman's Letter VIII.
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Births and Burials
007.sgm:<HSEP>Immediately on the birth of a child, the mother and infant were 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">baked
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30
007.sgm:<P>If a child was born to a chief, the old women immediately assembled, and washing it in water
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">gusto
007.sgm:<P>When a person died, all the kin collected to lament and mourn his or her loss.  Each one had
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n66">66.  Hoffman (1885:  31) adds the following note which is of some
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>Between Los Angeles and the coast, near San Pedro, gravestones were erected to the
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n67">67.  This is a fairly standard practice among Shoshonean-speaking tribes in the
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. VIII]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n68">68.  This is Hoffman's Letter IX.
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Medicine and Diseases
007.sgm:<HSEP>Their medical men
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">A-hub-su-voi-rot
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n69">69.  Hoffman says "medicine men," and appends the following note:  
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>The term Shaman is more appropriate in this connection.  The Seer was an individual whose
007.sgm:<LB>That the Shaman also prepared arrow-poison, there is no doubt.  Nearly all of the tribes
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Bull.  Societe d' Anthropologie de Paris
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">et seq.; Verhandl. Berliner. Gesell. fur Anthrop. Ethnol. und Urgesch
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">et seq
007.sgm:<P>In regard to the diseases then prevalent, inasmuch as siphilis was unknown, 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Brandy
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">high living
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">low
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">nosology
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Toothache
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Rheumatism
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Lumbargo
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">hot ashes
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Fever
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">wild tobacco,
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Local Inflammation
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">drawing blood
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Paralytic affections, stagnation of the blood, and loss of action in the limbs
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">whipping
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">nettles;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">(datura stramoniuns)
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Decline
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">mudturtles
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n70">70.  Hoffman has this word as "punk".  This is the curative practice, known
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n71">71.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Datura metaloides
007.sgm:<P>They were well acquainted with lime in medicine, and made it from shells; but not aware of its
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n72">72.  The fullest study of the Central and Southern California Indian practice of
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Strangury
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>NOM IM MANOC, IN MANOC,
007.sgm:<LB>NOM IM MANOC, IN MANOC.
007.sgm:<LB>YOBARSE!
007.sgm:<LB>I do, what I am doing,
007.sgm:<LB>I do, what I am doing.
007.sgm:<LB>Oh Church!
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n73">73.  Hoffman (1885:  15)  says "pressure and frotation 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">(sic)
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n74">74.  Hoffman (1885:  15) gives the native words as:  
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>"Non im mainoc, ni mainoc.
007.sgm:<LB>Non im mainoc, ni mainoc.
007.sgm:<LB>Yobare!"
007.sgm:<LB>
007.sgm:<P>Even the name of the Deity was not invoked in this, but the place of worship.
007.sgm:<LB>Bites of snakes were cured by the application of herbs and ashes to the wound; and herbs,
007.sgm:<LB>The hair was at times plastered all over with red clay, which was allowed to remain twenty
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n75">75.  In the 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">L.A. Star this
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Echinocystis macrocarpa
007.sgm:<P>The seers (as medicine men) collected the poison used for dipping the heads of arrows -- Fire
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">gall
007.sgm:<P>The seers pretended not only to be acquainted with poisons which destroyed life, by giving it
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n76">76.  Hoffman (1885:  13-14) adds, following this point, this paragraph:  
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>The medicine man collected the poison used for dipping the heads of arrows.  Fire was
007.sgm:<LB>
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. IX]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n77">77.  This Letter does not occur in Hoffman (1885).
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Customs
007.sgm:<HSEP>A great number of their young men being hunters, they of course had their peculiar
007.sgm:<HSEP> To make them hardy and endure pain without wincing (for cowardice as to corporeal
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n78">78.  Young men who submitted to being bitten by ants, often in conjunction
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37
007.sgm:<P>A small string of buckskin was tied around the neck of those who were swift of foot.
007.sgm:<P>When a girl came to the age of puberty, it was a joyful occasion for her relations.  She
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n79">79.  This ritual has been described for the neighboring Luise&ntilde;o by Rust
007.sgm:<P>The children were not without some education, for if an adult asked a boy or girl for a drink
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">liar
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">yayare
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n80">80.  This paragraph gives us a hint of the ethical teachings connected with the
007.sgm:<P>The name of God, as before mentioned, was never taken in vain, and the only exclamation
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ni&oacute;-mare!
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">bless me!
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n81">81.  C. H. Merriam recorded the following Gabrielino words which can be
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ah-vah'-ah-hah;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">yah-mon-h[e];'-ne;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">me-ah';
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">te-her'-vit;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">tsi'-e't;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">chi-n[o];k-noi
007.sgm:<P>Animosity between persons or families was of long duration, particularly between those of
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n82">82.  Song duels occur widely among primitive peoples.  They are best known
007.sgm:<P>They saluted each other on meeting by saying 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ava aha?
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">teh&eacute;pko;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">chainoc
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">good bye;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">yamu uimi
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">mea!
007.sgm:<P>In regard to painting themselves, they had different grades according to the occasion. --
007.sgm:<P>Summer was considered to have commenced 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. X]
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Customs -- Continued
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n83">83.  This Letter does not occur in Hoffman (1885).
007.sgm:<P>Boys were trained to carry messages from one chief to another, and they continued in that
007.sgm:<P>They were not much given to travel, for they only relate of one traveller, who left his people
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">North
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">where the geese breed
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">he
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">inhale the essence;
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n84">84.  An abbreviated version of this paragraph occurs in Hoffman's Letter V
007.sgm:<P>They had only names for the four cardinal points of the compass, to wit:
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n85">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">pi'-e-mo;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">tah-mingar'-ro;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ke-tah'-me;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">too'-o-me'
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">e-u'-ko.
007.sgm:<HSEP>South, Kit&aacute;mi.
007.sgm:<HSEP>Cr&uacute;mi.
007.sgm:<HSEP>West,  P&aacute;ymi.
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">r&oacute;mi
007.sgm:<P>When a church feast was held -- for instance 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41
007.sgm:<P>At the four quarters of the compass, poles of some ten feet in length, were placed upright
007.sgm:<P>On the eighth day the church was more adorned than before.  When no more feathers 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n86">86.  Reid is describing here the great annual mourning ceremony held in the 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">yoba;
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. XI]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n87">87.  This Letter does not occur in Hoffman (1885).
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Traffic and Utensils
007.sgm:<HSEP>Although money in the strict sense of the word did not exist among them, they had an
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">pucu ponto
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">weh&eacute; peca, as
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">p&aacute;he ponco;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">sayaco;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">m&aacute;har ponco;
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">babahe paca
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">watza cavia
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">p&aacute;he motke
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">puen peso
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n88">88.  This description of length-value measurements of shell beads is very
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ponco
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ponti
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ponco, ponto
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n89">89.  Davis (1961) has written a detailed study of aboriginal California trade
007.sgm:<P>Hemp
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n90">90.  That is, cordage.
007.sgm:<P>Mortars and pestles were made of granite, about sixteen inches wide at the top, ten at the
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">perseverance
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n91">91.  Cf. Bryan (1961)
007.sgm:<P>Their present clay pots were at that time unknown; the Spaniards taught them their
007.sgm:<P>Their pots to cook in were made of soap-stone of about an inch in thickness, and procured
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">sanot
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. XII]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n92">92.  This is Letter XI of Hoffman (1885).
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Sports and Games
007.sgm:<HSEP>These were few, and all of a gaming nature.
007.sgm:<HSEP>The principal one was 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">churchurki
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">peon
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n93">93.  C. Hart Merriam recorded the name of this game as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">choo-chooch'-k&amacr;ch
007.sgm:<P>The peon was white, of an inch or two in length; but they had also a black one, which to
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47
007.sgm:<P>This was their favorite game, and they at times bet their all on it.  It still continues to be their
007.sgm:<P>Another game called 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">chachaukel
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n94">94.  Hoffman has 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Charcharake
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">chah-chahn'k&amacr;
007.sgm:<P>The adversaries counted from opposite ends, and if one's count came to that of the other, the
007.sgm:<P>A game called 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">hararicuar
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n95">95.  Hoffman adds:  "The ring was made of buckskin with a twig of willow
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ne-yah'-ka'-ech
007.sgm:<P>The last I shall mention is 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">wauri
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48
007.sgm:<P>Foot-ball was unknown until the conquest, when they learned it of the Indians of San Diego.
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n96">96.  Hoffman (1885:  18) says this game was "played by children and by those
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. XIII]
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n97">97.  This is Letter X of Hoffman (1885).
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tradition
007.sgm:<HSEP>There were 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">seven brothers
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">seven sisters
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n98">98.  Hoffman (1885:  16) says "a toothache."
007.sgm:<P>Several hours before sunset the hunting party returned laden with rabbits which they
007.sgm:<P>After some time had elapsed, the youngest wife arose and presented herself to the men in the
007.sgm:<P>They soon found an opportunity to leave the hut and inquired the result of the espionage
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51
007.sgm:<P>They proceeded to the lagoon where they daily collected flag-roots and constructed a
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pleiads
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n99">99.  Hoffman writes "an engine (flying concern)" rather than "a machine
007.sgm:<P>Only the youngest brother appeared to be vexed at the loss of his spouse seeking her daily in
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Taurus
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n100">100.  This letter does not appear in Hoffman (1885).
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tradition and Fable
007.sgm:<HSEP>Among the most curious of their traditions was the following:
007.sgm:<HSEP>Four brothers and a sister lived together in [a] hut and were very fond of each other.  The
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chukit
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">enamored of the lightning
007.sgm:<P>The three declared themselves innocent, and each one mentioned his having had his suspicions
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">cold
007.sgm:<P>After some time the pains of labor commenced and a man-child was born.  The midwife
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">It will hurt me
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mactutu
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Son of God
007.sgm:<P>The chiefs and wise men of the tribe at length determined to put him to death.  He was aware
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54
007.sgm:<P>After many consultations his enemies hit upon a plan which destroyed him completely, for
007.sgm:<P>Some Indians after this said, "there is no God," because they had destroyed him; but the
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n101">101.  Kroeber (1925:  624) suggests that the virgin sister and her four
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chukit, is
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tsukit
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chuquit
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">The Coyote and the Water
007.sgm:<HSEP>A coyote, which, like all the rest of his kin, considered himself as the most austire animal
007.sgm:<HSEP>He walked off with his tail between his legs and had something to reflect upon for many a
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n102">102.  This is Letter XII of Hoffman (1885).
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Legend
007.sgm:<HSEP>In the Lodge of 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Muhuvit
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Hahamogna
007.sgm:<P>In due time she presented her husband with a daughter.  Shortly after, she proved herself to
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56
007.sgm:<P>Orders were given the next day to have no water brought from the wells to their huts, but that
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57
007.sgm:<P>After proceeding some distance, she repented having done so, exclaiming, "What a fool I am
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">he
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">thou
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">chamuca
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n103">103.  Hoffman renders this word as 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Charnuca
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">chah-moo'-hah
007.sgm:<P>Not long after her arrival, came the mother to procure a supply of seeds and acorns, and
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58
007.sgm:<P>The father being informed by his wife, secretly he proceeded with her to the place of deposit
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">hamisar
007.sgm:<P>At this stage of her cure, she was commanded by her father to go daily and bathe in her
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n104">104.  Hoffman (1885:  20) gives this last incident in more detail.  He writes: 
007.sgm:<P>The brother, well satisfied with himself, returned home and told his mother of having found an
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60
007.sgm:<P>On arriving home, he informed his wife, who cried bitterly, much to the astonishment of all
007.sgm:<P>He called all of his people and told them to go a-hunting, stop out all night, and take his son
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n105">105.  Hoffman (1885:  21) writes:  "Calling together all of his people, he told
007.sgm:<P>A little before daylight one of the old men let loose a screech owl, which he had brought
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Cuwot
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Cuwot
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n106">106.  Hoffman (1885:  21) adds "(cry 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">cu)
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">acawut
007.sgm:<P>A few days after this, a man was seen approaching the village:  the chief went and met him.
007.sgm:<P>"Where dost thou come from?" asked the chief.
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61
007.sgm:<P>"From Hahamogna" (Verdugos).
007.sgm:<P>"Ah!" said the chief, "how are they getting on there?"
007.sgm:<P>"Very well, indeed; the Captain there is about to take a new wife, and in consequence a great
007.sgm:<P>"Be it so," said he, "they have had their laugh, now I shall have mine, and we will all perish
007.sgm:<P>He took the road to the village, and before arriving there, he fell in with all the women
007.sgm:<P>Going to the west side of the Lodge, he transformed himself into a huge eagle, and
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62
007.sgm:<CAPTION>
007.sgm:<P>Above:  Flat throwing stick of hard wood (species unidentified), 24 inches long.  Collected in
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n107">107.  Hoffman says "grandchildren", specifying that there were two.
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n108">108.  Hoffman  says  "her  daughter's  absence"  and  not "while their
007.sgm:<P>They soon caught it, and saying "let us pull its wings off," put it into execution.  The moment
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n109">109.  Hoffman says "matter."
007.sgm:<P>The old woman had to bury the dead, as she best could, and rested contented in raising the
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n110">110.  Hoffman adds, following this sentence, "The boy, at last, killed first a
007.sgm:<P>The girl's disposition altered very much after her marriage, for her husband being a great
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64
007.sgm:<P>Being out ahunting one day, the fatal sign was given.  Throwing down his bows and arrows
007.sgm:<P>"Poor thing, she is dead!" answered the hag, "and I have buried her there," pointing to a
007.sgm:<P>"Bad woman, thou hast murdered her," said he, snatching up a billet of wood to kill her with,
007.sgm:<P>For three days and nights did he lie upon her grave, lamenting her loss.  On the third day he
007.sgm:<P>A voice at length proceeded from the cloud saying, "Return back, husband mine, for I am 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n111">111.  Hoffman's version (1885:  24) differs slightly in wording, and adds that
007.sgm:<P>They passed over an immense sea, and ultimately reached the land of spirits, where he heard
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Tucupar
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n112">112.  After this first phrase Hoffman's version adds "and there was great
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ayopui-cushna
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n113">113.  Hoffman says "Ursus Major."
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n114">114.  Perhaps this is an allusion to the sand-paintings known to have been
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n115">115.  C. Hart Merriam gives 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">too-koo'-par as
007.sgm:<P>They left the spirit realms and travelled on earth; still she was invisible to him, until at night
007.sgm:<P>Here ends a legend, firmly believed in, 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n116">116.  Hoffman (1885:  26) adds, "Whenever this legend was to be told, the
007.sgm:<P>Some persons affirmed that the woman did not kill her child, but that it became a squirrel. 
007.sgm:<P>The bird called 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Cuwot
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">cu
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n117">117.  Hoffman adds here, "It is said that a man was once carried away by it
007.sgm:<P>In regard to the woman's returning to life, they say it never 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">would
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n118">118.  Kroeber (1925:  625) gives a synopsis of this myth and uses it to
007.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">
007.sgm:<LB>The ethical inconsistency of this story is marked to our feelings.  The heroine certainly is
007.sgm:<LB>Nothing can be imagined farther frog a plot according to the thoughts of civilized people than
007.sgm:<LB>
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. XVI]
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">First Arrival of the Spaniards
007.sgm:<P>The Indians were sadly afraid when they saw the Spaniards coming on horseback. -- Thinking
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chichinabros
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">reasonable beings
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chichinabros
007.sgm:<P>Another event soon convinced them of their visitors' mortality, for shortly afterwards they
007.sgm:<P>The whites made them a number of presents prior to using any means to convert them; the
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">white
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. XVII]
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Conversion
007.sgm:<P>Having now given a brief sketch of the manners and customs of the Indians, prior to their
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n119">119.  A direct translation of the Spanish "gente de razon."
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n120">120.  On the founding of Mission San Gabriel see Temple (1959).
007.sgm:<P>However, I may as well remark that no attention whatever will be paid to dates -- and the text
007.sgm:<P>The site occupied by the principal building of the Mission, the vineyards and the gardens, was
007.sgm:<P>The water, which now composes the lagoon of the Mill, (one mile and a half distant) being
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Sibagua
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Rio de las Temblores
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n121">121.  That is, 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Sibagna
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">California Farmer
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Toviscanga
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n122">122.  On earthquakes in California during the mission period (1769-1834)
007.sgm:<P>The brand for marking animals was a T with an S on the shank, like an anchor and entwined
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74
007.sgm:<P>When the Priest came to found the Mission, he brought a number of vagabonds, under the
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">converted
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Amar &aacute; Dios
007.sgm:<P>Baptism as performed, and the recital of a few words not understood, can hardly be said to be
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">nolens volens to
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pariah
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">soyna
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n123">123.  An important element in Gabrielino ritual was bathing and other forms
007.sgm:<P>We are, of course, unable to say that the severe measures adopted emanated from the Priest;
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76
007.sgm:<P>The Indians, from the beginning, never offered resistance or flew to arms,
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n124">124.  Generally speaking the California Indians were peaceable peoples. 
007.sgm:<P>From the first misnamed conversion until the arrival of Fray Jose Maria Salvadea, they knew
007.sgm:<P>But the Padre Jose Maria, who was a man of talent, and possessed of a powerful mind --
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ayoinac
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n125">
007.sgm:<P>He gave them, thereby, an insight of the Catholic religion, but did not in one iota alter their
007.sgm:<P>I shall have occasion to say more regarding their present religious state, before concluding
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. XVIII]
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">First Missionary Proceedings
007.sgm:<P>Having, at length, a sufficiency of Neophites to build with, ground was cleared and laid off;
007.sgm:<P>In after years, not only were other buildings erected, but tile manufactured, and placed on all
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n126">126.  The "demand" (cf. Letter VII) was that of destroying the house and its
007.sgm:<P>All this while, the former small stock of animals were carefully herded and were augmenting
007.sgm:<P>Vine slips, fruit trees, and pulse, &amp;c., were 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Vina Madre
007.sgm:<P>A better class of people than the low vulgar soldiers, both men and women, were induced to
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n127">127.  That is, Sinaloa.
007.sgm:<P>Water was brought to irrigate the crops, from numerous little streams, and more produce was
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80
007.sgm:<P>Indians of course deserted.  Who would not have deserted?
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">hindas
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n128">128.  For a thorough analysis of fugitivism among mission neophytes
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n129">129.  The "Tulares," by which is meant the southern San Joaquin Valley, held
007.sgm:<P>A considerable quantity of books to compose a library, were brought from the College of San
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81
007.sgm:<P>The more valuable part of the works consisted of those treating on Theology and Law, with a
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. XIX]
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">New Era in Mission Affairs
007.sgm:<P>On the arrival of Padre Jose Maria Salvedea, cattle were plenty, as were likewise horses,
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">(cactus opuntia)
007.sgm:<P>He likewise remodeled the general system of government, putting everything in order and to
007.sgm:<P>Thus people were divided into various classes and stations.  There were baqueros,
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83
007.sgm:<P>Large soap works were erected; tanning yards established; tallow works, bakery, cooper,
007.sgm:<P>Sugar cane, flax and hemp, were added to the other articles cultivated but cotton wool was
007.sgm:<P>The ranchos belonging to the Mission were put on another footing, as were the sheep farms. 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84
007.sgm:<P>A principal head Mayordomo commanded and superintended over all.  Claudio Lopez was the
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">El difunto Claudio.!
007.sgm:<P>There were a great many other mayordomos under him, for all kinds of work, from tending of
007.sgm:<P>It is strange no medical man was kept on the establishment, as the number of people was
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85
007.sgm:<P>Indian Alcaldes were appointed annually by the Padre, and chosen from among the very
007.sgm:<P>The unmarried women and young girls were kept as Nuns, under the supervision of an abbess,
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86
007.sgm:<P>The best looking youths were kept as pages to attend at table and those of musical talent
007.sgm:<P>The number of hogs was great and were principally used for making soap.  The Indians, with
007.sgm:<P>At San Francisquito, near the Mission, were kept the turkies, of which they had a large
007.sgm:<P>The Padre had an idea that finery led Indians to run away, for which reason he never gave
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87
007.sgm:<P>He was an inveterate enemy to drunkenness, and did all in his power to prevent it, but to no
007.sgm:<P>Having found out the game practiced in regard to destroying the children born to the whites,
007.sgm:<P>He had no predilection for wizards, and generally (as some one or another was always
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88
007.sgm:<P>On a breach occurring between man and wife, they were fastened together by the leg, until
007.sgm:<P>He was not only severe, but he was, in his chastizements, most cruel.  So as not to make a
007.sgm:<P>Although so severe to the Indians, he was kind in the extreme to travelers and others. -- There
007.sgm:<P>Having brought the establishment and every thing connected with it, to the climax of
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n130">130.  It is not clear here whether Reid means that the favorite hobby was
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. XX]
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Better Times
007.sgm:<P>The Padre Jose Bernardo Sanchez had, for some time previous, been a colleague of Salvedeas
007.sgm:<P>He was a great sportsman and capital shot, both with rifle and fowling piece.  Although no
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91
007.sgm:<P>I cannot refrain from relating an anecdote connected with those parties of pleasure, as it
007.sgm:<P>Don J. M. M., an old Spaniard, who had large commercial relations with the Mission, having
007.sgm:<P>All eat of it and praised it much, with the exception of the two concerned in the joke. -- After
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92
007.sgm:<P>The same regulations which had been observed by his predecessor, were still in force under
007.sgm:<P>The general condition of the Indians was rendered better, and a more healthy state prevailed
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n131">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star
007.sgm:<P>The purchases made at one time seldom exceeded $30,000 consisting of domestics, bleached
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93
007.sgm:<P>This was, indeed, a transformation, and one for which they felt grateful.  It elevated them to
007.sgm:<P>On coming out of Mass, the whole community was assembled and rations given to families for
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94
007.sgm:<P>The Mission bell, on being rung, roused the Alcaldes from their slumbers, who in loud voice
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">posole
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">atole or
007.sgm:<P>After twelve o'clock oil Saturdays, soap was distributed, and all the world went a washing of
007.sgm:<P>After service, on Sunday, football and races were on the carpet until the afternoon, when a
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95
007.sgm:<P>He died in 1833, regretted by all the community, and leaving every one who knew him sad at
007.sgm:<P>His course was a good one, yet probably the Padre Salvedea's was equally so.  It was required
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. XXI]
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Decay of the Mission
007.sgm:<P>The Mission, as received by the Padre Tomas was in a flourishing condition, but in 1834 (I
007.sgm:<P>It did not require long to destroy what years took to establish.  Destruction came as a thief in
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97
007.sgm:<P>It is not the intention here to give a detail of all that occurred, as our line, as marked out from
007.sgm:<P>General Figueroa, having been appointed political Chief and Commandant General of the
007.sgm:<P>As a wrong impression of his character may be produced from the preceding remarks, in
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98
007.sgm:<P>The Indians were made happy at this time in being permitted to enjoy once more the luxury of
007.sgm:<P>Administrator followed Administrator, until the Mission could support no more, when the
007.sgm:<P>The Indians during this period were continually running off.  Scantily clothed and still more
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99
007.sgm:<P>This was a period of demoralization.  People from Sonora came flocking in to assist in the
007.sgm:<P>These Sonorenos overran this country.  They invaded the rancher&iacute;a, gambled with the
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100
007.sgm:<DIV>
007.sgm:<HEAD>[LETTER NO. XXII]
007.sgm:<P>
007.sgm:<HI REND="bold">
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Finis
007.sgm:<P>Having given a sketch of the Angeles County Indians from the time they were the free, natal
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n132">132.  What purports to be the recollections recorded in 1877 of an old
007.sgm:<P>Their former lodges are not now in existence, and most of the Indians remaining in the county
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n133">133.  Reference here is to natives from Kodiak and the Aleutian Islands who
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n134">134.  This is a bit of folklore.  Alexander S. Taylor 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">(California Farmer
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">double rows of teeth, among the caves and on the site of the old
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">still living
007.sgm:<P>I have previously mentioned that their language has deteriorated much since the conquest. 
007.sgm:<P>They have at present, 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">two
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Zizu
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n135">135.  C. Hart Merriam gives 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">sh&eacute;-soo
007.sgm:<P>Their chiefs still exist.  In San Gabriel remain only four, and those young.  There are more,
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">i.e
007.sgm:<NOTE anchor.ids="n136">136.  By "church" here is meant the unroofed brush enclosure 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">(toba)
007.sgm:<P>Their food continues the same, with the addition made to the list of what the Spaniards
007.sgm:<P>For a long time back, marriage has been performed in the Catholic Church; and only one
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">alone
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103
007.sgm:<P>The seers have declined very much in their ability both of predicting events and doing harm;
007.sgm:<P>Ten years ago shell bead money was current in the Mission, not only between Indians, but
007.sgm:<P>I have refrained from touching on politics.  The Administrators I have left to work out their
007.sgm:<P>If these sketches of Indian character have been at all interesting to the readers of the "STAR,"
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104
007.sgm:<CAPTION>
007.sgm:<P>Gabrielino artifacts as illustrated by Hoffman.  (See Notes 29, 47, 60 and 66).
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137
007.sgm:<BACK>
007.sgm:<DIV TYPE="bib">
007.sgm:<HEAD>References
007.sgm:<P>BANCROFT, H. H.
007.sgm:<LB> (1875)  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">The Native Races of the Pacific States of North America
007.sgm:<LB>BEALE, E. F.
007.sgm:<LB>(1854)  Reports of E. F. Beale.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">House of Representatives, Document No. 1, 33rd Congress, 1st Session
007.sgm:<LB>BRYAN, B. 
007.sgm:<LB>(1961)   The Manufacture of Stone Mortars.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">The Masterkey
007.sgm:<LB>CAUGHEY, J. W.
007.sgm:<LB>(1952)  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">The Indians of Southern California in 1852
007.sgm:<LB>Cook, S. F.
007.sgm:<LB>(1943)  The Conflict Between the California Indian and White Civilization.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Ibero-Americana
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138
007.sgm:<P>(1962)  Expeditions to the Interior of California:  Central Valley, 1820-1840.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Anthropological Records
007.sgm:<LB>COPE, L.
007.sgm:<LB>(1919)  Calendars of the Indians North of Mexico.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Publications in American Archaeology and Ethnology
007.sgm:<LB>DAKIN, S. B.
007.sgm:<LB>(1939)   
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">A Scotch Paisano:  Hugo Reid's Life in California
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Derived from his Correspondence
007.sgm:<LB>DALE, E. E.
007.sgm:<LB>(1949)  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">The Indians of the Southwest:  A Century of Development Under the United
007.sgm:<LB>DAVIDSON. G.
007.sgm:<LB>(1873)  Remarks on a Boomerang from Los Angeles County, California.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Proceedings of the California Academy of Sciences
007.sgm:<LB>ELLIS, A. M.
007.sgm:<LB>(1926)  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Hugo Reid's Account of the Indians of Los Angeles County
007.sgm:<LB>GAYTON, A. H. &amp; NEWMAN, S. S.
007.sgm:<LB>(1940)  Yokuts and Western Mono Myths.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Anthropological Records
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139
007.sgm:<P>HARRINGTON, J. P.
007.sgm:<LB>(1933)  Annotations of Alfred Robinson's 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chinigchinich
007.sgm:<LB>(1962)  Preface to B. E. Johnston, 
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">California's Gabrielino Indians
007.sgm:<LB>HEIZER, R. F.
007.sgm:<LB>(1941)  California Earthquakes of the Mission Period, 1769-1838.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">California Journal of Mines and Geology
007.sgm:<LB>(1942)  Ancient Grooved Clubs and Modern Rabbit-sticks.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">American Antiquity
007.sgm:<LB>HEIZER, R. F. &amp; ELSASSER, A. B.
007.sgm:<LB>(1961)  Original Accounts of the Lone Woman of San Nicolas Island.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Archaeological Survey Reports, No. 55
007.sgm:<LB>HENSHAW, H. W.
007.sgm:<LB>(1955)  California Indian Linguistic Records:  The Mission Indian Vocabularies of H. W.
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Anthropological Records
007.sgm:<LB>HOFFMAN, W. J.
007.sgm:<LB>(1885)  Hugo Ried's Account of the Indians of Los Angeles County, California.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Bulletin of the Essex Institute
007.sgm:<LB>JOHNSTON, B. E.
007.sgm:<LB>(1962)  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">California's Gabrielino Indians
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140
007.sgm:<P>KROEBER, A. L.
007.sgm:<LB>(1908)  A Mission Record of the California Indians, from a Manuscript in the Bancroft
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Publications in American Archaeology and Ethnology
007.sgm:<LB>(1909)  Notes of Shoshonean Dialects of Southern California.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Publications in American Archaeology and Ethnology
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Vol. 8. No. 5. University of
007.sgm:<LB>(1925) Handbook of the Indians of California.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Bulletin 78
007.sgm:<LB>MERRIAM, C. H.
007.sgm:<LB>(1962)  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Studies of California Indians
007.sgm:<LB>(n.d.)  Vocabularies of North American Indians:  Tongva (San Gabriel). Ms. on file at the
007.sgm:<LB>PIMENTEL, F.
007.sgm:<LB>(1862)  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Cuadro descriptivo y comparativo de las lenguas indigenas de M&eacute;xico
007.sgm:<LB>PINART, A.
007.sgm:<LB>(1952)  California Indian Linguistic Records:  The Mission Indian Vocabularies of Alphonse
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Anthropological Records
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141
007.sgm:<P>RUST, H. N.
007.sgm:<LB>(1904)  Rogerio's Theological School.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Out West
007.sgm:<LB>(1906)  A Puberty Ceremony of the Mission Indians.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">American Anthropologist
007.sgm:<LB>SANCHEZ, N. V.
007.sgm:<LB>(1929)  Keeper of the Keys:  the recollections of Senora Eulalia Perez, oldest woman in the
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Touring Topics
007.sgm:<LB>SPIER, L.
007.sgm:<LB>(1955)  Mohave Culture Items.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Bulletin No. 28
007.sgm:<LB>STRONG, W. D.
007.sgm:<LB>(1929)  Aboriginal Society in Southern California.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Publications in American Archaeology and Ethnology
007.sgm:<LB>TEMPLE, T. W., II
007.sgm:<LB>(1959)  The Founding of Mision San Gabriel Arc&aacute;ngel.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">The Masterkey
007.sgm:<LB>VOGELIN, E. W.
007.sgm:<LB>(1938)  Tubatulabal Ethnography.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Anthropological Records
007.sgm:<LB>WALLACE, W.
007.sgm:<LB>(1959)  Historical Research Pertaining to the Original 
007.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120
007.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Lasca Leaves
007.sgm:<LB>WALLACE, W.; DESAUTELS, R. J. &amp; KRITZMAN, G.
007.sgm:<LB>(1958)  The House of the Scotch Paisano:  Archaeological Investigations of the Hugo Reid
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Lasca Leaves
007.sgm:<LB>WOODWARD, A.
007.sgm:<LB>(1944)  Gabrielino Indian Language.  
007.sgm:<HI REND="italics">The Masterkey
007.sgm:<CAPTION><p>Territories of the Gabrielino and Adjoining Tribes.</p>
009.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-009</TITLE>
009.sgm:<TITLE>Three years in California.  By Walter Colton: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
009.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
009.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
009.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
009.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
009.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
009.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-774</LCCN>
009.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
009.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Not determined</COPYRIGHT>
009.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P><illus entity="a009-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>John A. Sutter</P>
009.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>THREE YEARS<LB>IN<LB> CALIFORNIA.</P>
009.sgm:<P>BY<LB>REV. WALTER COLTON, U.S.N.<LB>LATE ALCALDE OF MONTEREY; AUTHOR OF "DECK AND PORT,"<LB>ETC., ETC.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.</P>
009.sgm:<P>NEW YORK:<LB>PUBLISHED BY A. S. BARNES &amp; CO.<LB>NO. 51 JOHN-STREET.<LB>CINCINNATI:--H. W. DERBY &amp; CO.<LB>1850.</P>
009.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred and fifty,</P>
009.sgm:<P>BY A. S. BARNES &amp; COMPANY,</P>
009.sgm:<P>In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York.</P>
009.sgm:<P>STEREOTYPED BY RICHARD C. VALENTINE, NEW YORK.</P>
009.sgm:<P>F. C. GUTIERREZ, Printer No. 51 John-street, corner of Dutch.</P>
009.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>TO<LB>GEN. MARIANO GUADALUPE VALLEJO,<LB>ONE OF CALIFORNIA'S DISTINGUISHED SONS,<LB>IN WHOM<LB>THE INTERESTS OF FREEDOM, HUMANITY, AND EDUCATION<LB>HAVE FOUND AN ABLE ADVOCATE AND MUNIFICENT BENEFACTOR,<LB>This Volume<LB>IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED<LB>BY HIS FRIEND<LB>THE AUTHOR.</P>
009.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>MANY events of moment occurred in California during my residence of three years in that country, and which were sketched in a journal kept by me at the time.  They are interspersed with anecdotes and incidents of a less general concern, but which may not be without some interest with the reader, as affording a clue to the leading features of society, and traits of individual character.  The circle of engaging objects in a community just emerging into the refinements of civilization, is never broad; but every phase in the great change going on possesses an intense individuality, and leaves its ineffaceable impression, like a ship sweeping a solitary sea, or a bird scaling a sunset cloud. California will be no more what she has been: the events of a few years have carried her through the progressive changes of a century.  She has sprung at once from the shackles of colonial servitude to all the advantages and dignities of a sovereign state.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Her emigrants are rushing from every continent and isle; they crest every mountain, they cover every sea; they sweep in like a cloud from the Pacific, they roll down like a torrent from the slopes of the Sierra Nevada.  They crowd to her bosom to gather gold; their hammers and drills, their mattocks and spades divert the deep stream, and are echoed from a thousand caverned hills; the level plain, the soaring cliff and wombed mountain, give up their glowing treasures.  But the gifts of nature here are not confined to her sparkling sands and veined rocks, they extend to the productive forces of her soil; they lie along her water-courses, through her verdant valleys, and wave in her golden grain; they reel in her vintage, they blush in her fruits, while her soft zephyrs, as they float the landscape, scatter perfume from their odorous wings.</P>
009.sgm:<P>But with all these gifts disease is here with its pale victims, and sorrow with its willow-wove shrine.  There is no land less <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:relieved by the smiles and soothing cares of woman.  If Eden with its ambrosial fruits and guiltless joys was still sad till the voice of woman mingled with its melodies, California, with all her treasured hills and streams, must be cheerless till she feels the presence of the same enchantress.  It is woman alone that can make a home for the human heart, and evoke from the recesses of nature the bright and beautiful: where her footsteps light, the freshest flowers spring; where her voice swells, the softest echoes wake: her smiles garland the domestic hearth; her sympathy melts through the deepest folds of grief; her love clothes the earth with light.  When night invests the heaven, when the soft pleiads in their storm-rocked cradle sleep, and the sentinel stars on their water-towers wane dim, her vigil flame still pours its faithful beam, still struggles with the encroaching darkness till the day-spring and the shadows flee away.  Of all these sources of solace and hope multitudes in California are now bereft; but the ties of kindred, the quick-winged ship, and the steed of flame, on his iron-paved track, will soon secure them these priceless gifts. The miner, returning from his toil, will yet half forget the labors of the day in the greetings of his home:  <HI REND="blockindent">"At length his lonely cot and in view,<LB>Beneath the shelter of an aged tree:<LB>Th' expectant <HI REND="italics">wee things</HI>
009.sgm:, toddlin' stacher thro'<LB>To meet their dad, wi' flichterin noise an' glee<LB>His wee bit ingle, blinkin' bonnily,<LB>His clean hearth-stane, his thriftie <HI REND="italics">wifie's</HI>
009.sgm: smile,<LB>The lisping infant prattling on his knee,<LB>Does a' his weary carking cares beguile,<LB>An' makes him quite forget his labor an' his toil,"<LB></HI>
009.sgm: PHILADELPHIA, July, 1850.<HSEP>W.C.</P>
009.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
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009.sgm:--Fossil remains.--The two classes of emigrants.--Life in California.--Heads against tails<HSEP>377<LB>CHAPTER XXIX.--The tragedy at San Miguel.--Court and culprits.--Age and circumstances of those who should come to California.--Condition of the professions.--The wrongs of California.--Claims on the Christian community.--Journalists<HSEP>391<LB>CHAPTER XXX.--The gold-bearing quartz.--Their locality.--Richness and extent.--The suitable machinery to be used in the mountains.--The court of admiralty at Monterey.--Its organization and jurisdiction.--The cases determined.--Sale of the prizes.--Convention and Constitution of California.--Difficulties and compromises.--Spirit of the instrument<HSEP>403<LB>CHAPTER XXXI.--Glances at towns sprung and springing.--San Francisco.--Benicia.--Sacramento City.--Sutter.--Vernon.--Boston.--Stockton.--New York.--Alvezo.--Stanislaus.--Sonora.--Crescent City.--Trinidad<HSEP>414<LB>CHAPTER XXXII.--Brief notices of persons, whose portraits embellish this volume, and who are prominently connected with California affairs<HSEP>425<LB>CHAPTER XXXIII.--The mission establishments in California.--Their origin, objects, localities, lands, revenues, overthrow.--California Railroad<HSEP>439</P>
009.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF PORTRAITS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>CAPTAIN JOHN A. SUTTER.<LB>THOMAS O. LARKIN, ESQ.<LB>HON. J. C. FREMONT.<LB>HON. WM. M. GWIN.<LB>HON. G. W. WRIGHT.<LB>JACOB R. SNYDER, Esq.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A LIST<LB>OF THE DELEGATES IN CONVENTION<LB>ASSEMBLED AT MONTEREY, UPPER CALIFORNIA, SEPTEMBER<LB>AND OCTOBER, A. D. 1849.</HEAD>
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009.sgm:<P>THREE YEARS IN CALIFORNIA.</P>
009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I. THE FLAG.--MEETING OF CITIZENS.--DISPOSITION OF FORCES.--COL. FREMONT'S BAND.--ALCALDE OF MONTEREY.--INDIAN MOTHER--MILITARY LEADERS.--A CALIFORNIA FARM.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>A FEW words will place within the clear comprehension of the reader, the posture of public affairs in California at the time my journal opens.  The U. S. flag was raised at Monterey and San Francisco on the 10th of July, 1846.  This event was wholly unexpected by the Californians, and struck the public heart with the deepest surprise; other causes of alarm and apprehension faded into shadow in the presence of this decisive measure; they were the admonitory vibrations, but here was the earthquake itself.  The people were more astounded than indignant, and quite as intent over problems of preservation as measures of resistance.</P>
009.sgm:<P>At a public meeting held at Monterey, in which the patriotism, talents, and sagacity of the country were largely represented, the question of throwing the territory under the protection of England, through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:the naval forces commanded by Admiral Seymour, who was on the coast at the time, was excitingly discussed.  But this proposition received its quietus under the successful railery of Don Raphael, of Monterey.  "Our object," said this witty counsellor, "is to preserve our country; but she is gone,--California is lost to us: and this proposal to invoke the protection of England, is only to seek another <HI REND="italics"> owner</HI>
009.sgm:.  The redress is worthy of the market-woman: a dog had robbed her hamper of a leg of mutton, and she sent another dog more powerful after him to get it away; when asked what good that would do her, she replied, it would be some satisfaction to see the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
009.sgm:<P>The military forces of the country were at this time under the command of Gen. Jos&eacute; Castro, an officer of high pretensions, but utterly deficient in strength and steadiness of purpose, and that capacity which can work out important results with slender and inapposite means.  His followers had gathered to him with as little discipline, sobriety, and order, as would characterize a bear-hunt.  Their prime impulse lay in the excitement which the camp presented.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Such was the posture of affairs when Com. Stockton resolved to rest in no half-way measures.  The wave had been set in motion and must roll on, or its returning force might sweep him and his temporary garrisons into the Pacific.  And yet aggressive measures in the present condition of the squadron seemed to border on rashness.  The Portsmouth, under Commander Montgomery, must be left at San Francisco to garrison the posts occupied by the flag; the Savannah, commanded by Capt. Mervin, must remain here to hold Monterey; the Warren, under Commander Hull, was at Mazatlan; only the Congress, Lieut. Livingston commanding, and the Cyane, under Commander Du Pont, remained.  With the crews of these, and a hundred and sixty men under Col. Fremont, California was to be conquered and held, and this too in the presence or defeat of a military force that had the entire resources of the country at their command.  But a gallant purpose will often achieve what a questioning prudence would relinquish.  The mountain torrent, with its impetuosity, sweeps away the barrier which effectually obstructs the level stream.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, JULY 27.  The bustle of preparation is active in the squadron.  Commander Du Pont received orders last evening to have the Cyane ready for sea in twenty-four hours.  She has tripped this afternoon, and is off for San Diego, though it has `been given out on shore that she is bound elsewhere, but this is a war stratagem.  She has on board Col. Fremont and a hundred and fifty of his riflemen. The wind is fresh, and they are by this time Cleverly sea-sick, and lying about the deck in a spirit of resignation that would satisfy the non-resistant principles of a Quaker.  Two or three resolute old women might tumble the whole of them into the sea  But they will rally before they reach their port, ad see that their rifles spring true to their trust.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The colonel is a man of small stature, of slender but wiry formation, and with a countenance indicative of decision and firmness.  This is the fifth time he has crossed the continent in connection with his scientific purposes.  His enterprises are full of hardship, peril, and the wildest romance.  To sleep under the open heaven, and depend on one's rifle for food, is coming about as near the primitive state of the hunter as a civilized man can well get; and yet this life, in his case, is adorned with the triumphs of science.  The colonel and his band are to land at San Diego, secure horses, and advance upon the position of Gen. Castro, at los Angeles.  <HI REND="blockindent">War's great events lie so in Fortune's scale,<LB>That oft a feather's weight may kick the beam."<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JULY 28.  Com. Stockton informed me to-day that I had been appointed Alcalde of Monterey and its jurisdiction.  I had dreamed in the course of my life, as most people have, of the thousand things I might become, but it never entered my visions that I should succeed to the dignity of a Spanish alcalde.  I much preferred my berth on board the Congress, and that the judicial functions in question should continue to be discharged by the two intelligent gentlemen, Purser R. M. Price and Dr. Edward Gilchrist, upon whom they had been devolved.  But the services of these officers were deemed indispensable to the efficiency of the ships to which they were attached.  This left me no alternative; my trunks were packed, my books boxed, and in an hour I was on shore, a guest in the house of our consul, T. O. Larkin, Esq., whose munificent hospitalities reach every officer of the squadron, and every functionary in the interest of the flag.  This is the more appreciated from the fact that there is not a public table or hotel in all California.  High and low, rich and poor, are thrown together on the private liberality of the citizens.  Though a quasi war exists, all the amenities and courtesies of life are preserved; your person, life, and liberty, are as sacred at the hearth of the Californian as they would be at your own fireside.  He will never betray you; the rights of hospitality, in his generous judgment, require him to peril his own life in defence of yours. He may fight you on the field, but in his family, you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, JULY 29.  The sloop-of-war Levant, under Commander Page, sailed to-days with Com. Sloat on board, for the United States.  We gave the commodore a parting salute.  He has rendered the squadron under his command efficient, and preserved harmony among the officers.  The expediency of his measures in California will be canvassed elsewhere.  He acted on the light and intelligence within his reach.  If war has been declared, the laurel awaits him.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The Levant takes home in her my friend, Lieut. T----: he has resigned his commission in the navy, and takes orders in the church.  He is a pretty good classical scholar, and has made himself familiar with the principles of biblical exegesis.  All this has been accomplished during those few leisure hours which the duties of a watch-officer leave one at sea.  It is seemingly reversing the order of things for the navy to supply the church with spiritual teachers.  But few, however, have left the deck for the pulpit; a much larger number have reached it from the diagrams and drills of West Point.  Among them are some of our most eloquent and impressive preachers. Of this class is the present Bishop of Ohio.</P>
009.sgm:<P>We have all been busy in writing letters home, and shall make up a pretty large mail, filled with tender recollections, and overflowing with the California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, JULY 30.  To-day I entered on the duties of my office as alcalde of Monterey: my jurisdiction extends over an immense extent of territory, and over a most heterogeneous population. Almost every nation has, in some emigrant, a representative here--a representative of its peculiar habits, virtues, and vices.  Here is the reckless Californian, the half-wild Indian, the roving trapper of the West, the lawless Mexican, the licentious Spaniard, the scolding Englishman, the absconding Frenchman, the luckless Irishman, the plodding German, the adventurous Russian, and the discontented Mormon.  All have come here with the expectation of finding but little work and less law.  Through this discordant mass I am to maintain order, punish crime, and redress injuries.</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, JULY 31.  Nearly all the houses in Monterey are of one story, with a corridor.  The walls are built of adobes, or sun-baked brick, with tiled roofs.  The centre is occupied by a large hall, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, AUG. 1.  The Congress has sailed today, with all her marines and full complement of men, for San Pedro.  Com. Stockton intends to land there with a force of some three hundred, march to the Pueblo de los Angeles, capture that important place, and fall upon Gen. Castro, who, it is now understood, has posted himself with some eight hundred soldiers, in a pass a few miles below.  The general will find his southern retreat cut off by Col. Fremont's riflemen and the sailors of the Cyane, his western route obstructed by the Colorado, while the forces of the Congress will bear down upon him from the north.  He has seemingly no escape, and must fight or capitulate.  But his sagacity, his thorough <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, AUG. 2.  I officiated to-day on board the Savannah.  It is much to the credit of the officers of this ship that though without a chaplain, they have had, during a three years' cruise, their religious services regularly on the Sabbath.  Four of their number, two lieutenants, the surgeon, and master, are professors of religion, and exert a deep influence through their consistent piety.  Their Sabbath exercise has consisted in reading prayers, selections from the Scriptures, and a brief pertinent sermon.  They have had, also, their Sabbath-school.  Such facts as these will win for the navy a larger share of public confidence than the capture of forty barbaric fortresses.  The American people love valor, but they love religion also.  They will confer their highest honors only on him who combines them both.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, Aug. 3.  An Indian woman of good appearance came to our office to-day, Stating that she had been for two years past a domestic in a Mexican family near Monterey; that she had, during this time, lost her husband, and now wished to marry again; but wished, before she did this, to recover her child, which was forcibly detained in the family in which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>I asked her if her child would be kindly treated where it now was: she said she thought so; but added, she was a mother, and wanted it with her. We told her as She was going to marry again, She had better perhaps leave the child for the present; and if she found her husband to be a good, industrious man, and disposed to furnish her with a comfortable home, she might call again at our office, and we would get her child. She went away with that mild look of contentment which is as near a smile as any expression which lights an Indian's face.</P>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, AUG. 4.  The military chieftains, who have successively usurped the government of California, have arbitrarily imposed such duties on foreign imports as their avarice or exigency suggested.  A few examples will be sufficient to show the spirit and character of these imposts.  Unbleached cottons, which cost in the United States six cents the yard, cost here fifty, and shirtings cost seventy-five.  Plain knives and forks cost ten dollars the dozen; coarse cowhide shoes three dollars the pair; the cheapest tea three dollars the pound; and a pair of common truck-wheels seventy-five dollars.  The duty alone on the coarsest hat, even if made of straw, is three dollars.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>The revenues derived from these enormous imposts have passed into the pockets of a few individuals, who have placed themselves, by violence or fraud, at the head of the government, and have never reached the public in any beneficial form.  These exactions, enforced by an irresponsible tyranny, have kept California poor, have crushed all enterprise, and have rolled back the tide of emigration from her soil as the resisting rock the rushing stream.  But the barriers are now broken, and broken forever.  California is free,--free of Mexican rule ad all domestic usurpers.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, AUG. 5. We have in one apartment of our prison two Californians, confined for having robbed a United States courier, on his way from Monterey to San Francisco, with public dispatches. They have not yet been tried.  Yesterday they applied to me for permission to have their guitars. They stated that their situation was very lonely, and they wanted something to cheer it.  Their request was complied with; and last evening, when the streets were still, and the soft moonlight melted through the grates of their prison, their music streamed out upon the quiet air with wonderful sweetness and power.  Their voices were in rich harmony with their instruments, and their melodies had a wild and melancholy tone.  They were singing, for aught they knew, their own requiem.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, AUG. 6. It sounds strange to an American, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:and much more so to an Englishman, to hear Californians talk of farms.  They never speak of acres, or even miles; they deal only in leagues.  A farm of four or five leagues is considered quite small.  It is not So large, in the conception of this people, as was the one-acre farm of Horace in the estimation of the remans.  Capt. Sutter's farm, in the valley of the Sacramento, is sixty miles long.  The Californians speak in the same way of the stock on their farms.  Two thousand horses, fifteen thousand head of cattle, and twenty thousand sheep, are only what a thrifty farmer Should have before he thinks of killing or selling. They are to be his productive stock, on which he should not encroach, except in an emergency. Only fancy a farm covering sixty miles in length!  Why, a man would Want a railroad through it for his own private use.  Get out of the way, ye landlords of England and patroons of Amsterdam, with your boroughs and dykes, and give place to the Californian with his sixty mile sweep! FRIDAY, AUG. 7.  The Mormon ship Brooklyn, which we left at Honolulu, has arrived at San Francisco, and her passengers have debarked on the shores of that magnificent bay.  They have not yet selected their lands.  The natives hold them in great horror.  They seem to think cannibalism among the least of their enormities.  They consider the term Mormon the most branding epithet that can be applied to a man.  A mother complained to me, a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, AUG. 8.  Capt. Fauntleroy, of the Savannah, and Maj. Snyder, with fifty mounted men under their command, occupy San Juan, which lies inland about thirty miles from Monterey.  A report reached them a few days since, that a hundred wild Indians had descended upon the town of San Jos&eacute; and driven off over two hundred horses.  They started immediately With twenty men, well mounted, got upon their trail, and came up with them at a distance of sixty miles.  The Indians finding themselves hotly pressed, left their horses and took to the bush, throwing back upon their pursuers the most wild and frantic imprecations.  Three or four of their number only were killed.  The denseness of the forest and the approach of night rendered further pursuit impracticable.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The horses were all recaptured and brought back to their owners, who received them with acclamations of Surprise and gratitude.  This was the first time, they said, that their property had been rescued from savages by the government, and they run up the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, AUG. 9.  I officiated to-day on board the Savannah.  The weather was pleasant, and several gentlemen from the shore attended.  There was no service in the Roman Catholic Church, owing to the absence of one of the priests and the infirmities of the other.  But when there is service, only a few of the people attend.  It is Sometimes, however, forced upon them in the shape of penance.  When a friend of mine here was married, it was necessary that he should confess.  The penance imposed on him for his previous negligences and transgressions was, that he should attend church seven Sabbaths.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II. FECUNDITY OF THE CALIFORNIANS.--FIRST INTELLIGENCE OF THE WAR.--WILD INDIANS ON BOARD SHIP.--THE CHIEF.--FIRST NEWSPAPER PUBLISHED IN CALIFORNIA.--RAISING THE MATERIALS.--THE RIVAL SUITORS.--FLIGHT OF GEN. CASTRO.--A CALIFORNIAN ON HORSEBACK.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, AUG. 10.  The fecundity of the Californians is remarkable, and must be attributed in no small degree to the effects of the climate.  It is no uncommon sight to find from fourteen to eighteen children at the same table, with their mother at their head.  There is a lady of some note in Monterey, who is the mother of twenty-two living children. The youngest is at the breast, and must soon, it is said, relinquish his place to a new-comer, who will, in all probability, be allowed only the same brevity of bliss.</P>
009.sgm:<P>There is a lady in the department below who has twenty-eight children, all living, in fine health, and who may share the "envied kiss" with others yet to come.  What a family--what a wife--what a mother!  I have more respect for the shadow of that woman than for the living presence of the mincing being who raises a whole village if she has one child, and then puts it to death with sugar-plums.  A woman with one child is like a hen with one chicken; there is an eternal scratch about nothing.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, AUG. 11.  A deserter from Gen. Castro's camp presented himself at my office to-day ad gave himself up to the American authorities.  He represents the general as in rather a forlorn condition. His troops, it appears, are daily deserting him.  His present force is estimated at less than six hundred.  He is anxious to fly into Mexico, but is unable to raise a sufficient number of volunteers.  The expectation here is, that he will surrender to Com. Stockton.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The British brig-of-war Spy anchored in the harbor of Monterey this evening.  She is from San Blas, with dispatches for Admiral Seymour.  Her officers are perfectly silent as to news from the United States and Mexico.  She leaves in a few hours for the Collingwood at the Sandwich-Islands.  She has, undoubtedly, news of moment, but will not reveal it.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, AUG. 12.  The U. S. ship Warren, under Commander Hull, arrived this afternoon in thirty days from Mazatlan, bringing the eventful intelligence that war had been declared between the United States ad Mexico. The mysterious silence of the officers of the Spy is now explained.  But their secrecy has availed them for only twenty-four hours.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The war news produced a profound sensation here. The whole population were instantly thrown into groups in the corridors and at the corners of the streets.  The hum of voices continued late into the night.  It was an extinguisher on the hopes of those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, AUG. 13.  The Warren sailed this morning for San Pedro, to convey the war intelligence to Com. Stockton.  It will throw a new aspect upon his operations in California.  Expediency gives place to moral necessity.  We have now a double motive for exertion--national honor, which looks at home, and an enlarged philanthropy, which looks here.  It is of but little moment what the ultimate action of our government may be in reference to California.  It cannot change her destiny.  She is severed forever from Mexico.  Should our government attempt to throw her back on that country, she will not stay thrown back.  The rebound will carry her further off than ever.  She is on a wave which will not ebb till this generation have mouldered in their graves.</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, AUG. 14.  Sixty of a tribe of wild Indians, who live in the mountains, about two hundred miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>They were as wild a looking set of fellows as ever entered a civil tribunal.  The chief was over seven feet high, with an enormous blanket wrapped round him and thrown over the shoulder like a Spanish cloak, which set forth his towering fob to the best advantage.  His long black hair streamed in darkness down to his waist.  His features strikingly resembled those of Gen. Jackson.  His forehead was high, his eye full of fire, and his mouth betrayed great decision. His step was firm; his age must have been about fifty.  He entered the court with a civil but undaunted air.  When asked why he permitted the men of his tribe to steal horses, he replied that the men who took the horses were not properly members of his tribe, that they had recently attached themselves to him, ad now, that he had found them horse-thieves, he should cut them.  I could get at no satisfactory evidence that he, or the twenty with him, had actively assisted those who took off the horses.  I delivered them over to Capt. Mervin, who commanded the military occupation of the town.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>They were then taken on board the frigate, where the crew had been mustered for the occasion.  Here they were told how many ships, men, and guns we had at our command; so much to inspire them with awe: and now for their good will.  The whole party were rigged out with fresh blankets, and red handkerchiefs for each, which they use as a turban.  The chief was attired in a uniform of one of our tallest and stoutest officers: navy buttons, epauletts, sword, cap with a gold band, boots, and spurs; and a silver chain was put about his neck, to which a medal was attached, recognizing him as the high chief of the tribe.  He looked every inch a chief.  The band struck up Hail Columbia, and they departed, vowing eternal allegiance to the Americans.  The sailors were delighted with these savages, and half envied them their wild life.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, AUG. 15.  To-day the first newspaper ever published in California made its appearance. The honor, if such it be, of writing its Prospectus, fell to me.  It is to be issued on every Saturdays and 45 published by Semple ad Colton.  Little did I think when relinquishing the editorship of the North America in Philadelphia, that my next feat in this line would be off here in CalifornIa.  My partner is a emigrant from Kentucky, who stands six feet eight in his stockings.  He is in a buckskin dress, a fox-skin cap; is true with his rifle, ready with his pen, and quick at the type-case.</P>
009.sgm:<P>He created the materials of our office out of the chaos of a small concern, which had been used by a Roman Catholic monk in printing a few sectarian tracts.  The press was old enough to be preserved as a curiosity; the mice had burrowed in the balls; there were no rules, no leads, ad the types were rusty and all in pi.  It was only by scouring that the letters could be made to show their faces.  A sheet or two of tin were procured, and these, with a jackknife, were cut into rules and leads.  Luckily we found, with the press, the greater part of a keg of ink; and now came the main scratch for paper.  None could be found, except what is used to envelop the tobacco of the cigar smoked here by the natives.  A coaster had a small supply of this on board, which we procured.  It is in sheets a little larger than the common-sized foolscap.  And this is the size of our first paper, which we have christened the Californian. </P>
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009.sgm:<P>Though small in dimensions, our first number is as full of news as a black-walnut is of meat.  We have received by couriers, during the week, intelligence from all the important military posts through the territory.  Very little of this has transpired; it reaches the public for the first time through our sheet.  We have, also, the declaration of war between the United States and Mexico, with an abstract of the debate in the senate.  A crowd was waiting when the first sheet was thrown from the press.  It produced quite a little sensation.  Never was a bank run upon harder; not, however, by people with paper to get specie, but exactly the reverse.  One-half of the paper is in English, the other in Spanish.  The subscription for a year is five dollars; the price of a single sheet is twelve and a half cents; and is considered cheap at that.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, AUG. 16.  A brilliant day, and no sounds to disturb its tranquillity save the moan of the pine-grove as the wind sighs through it, and the thunder of the breaking waves on the beach. We had divine service on board the Savannah,--a much more grateful occupation to me than the investigation of crimes in the Alcaldean court.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Till the Americans took possession of Monterey, the Sabbath was devoted to amusement. The Indians gave themselves up to liquor, the Mexicans and Californians to dancing.  Whether the bottle or the fiddle had the most votaries it would be difficult to say.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, AUG. 17. A complaint was lodged in my court this morning, involving the perplexities of a love-matter.  The complainant is a Californian mother, who has a daughter rather remarkable for her personal attractions.  She has two rival suitors, both anxious to marry her, and each, of course, extremely jealous of the attentions of the other, and anxious to outdo him in the fervency and force of his own assiduities.  The family are consequently annoyed, and desire the court to interfere in some way for their repose.  I issued an order that neither of the rival suitors should enter the house of the complainant, unless invited by her, till the girl had made up her mind which she would marry; for it appeared she was very much perplexed, being equally pleased with both; and now, I suppose, roses ad all the other silent tokens of affection will pass plenty as protestations before.  <HI REND="blockindent">"The course of true love never did run smooth"<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, AUG. 18.  The ado made to reach the hand of the undecided girl shows how very rare such specimens of beauty are in these parts.  She has nothing to recommend her as a sober, industrious, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, AUG. 19.  Several of Gen. Castro's officers have just arrived in town, delivered themselves up, and been put upon parole.  They state that the general's camp, near the Pueblo de los Angeles, broke up a few days since in the night; that the general and Gov. Pico had started for Sonora with fifty men and two hundred horses; that their flight was hastened by the approach of Com. Stockton, with the forces of the Congress, on the north, and Maj. Fremont, with his riflemen, on the south.  The commodore had reached, it appears, within a few hours march of his camp.  The general had taken the precaution to send forward in advance a portion of his horses, to serve as fresh relays on his arrival.  He expects to leave Col. Fremont on the right, and will be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, AUG. 20.  An Indian was brought before me to-day, charged with having stolen a horse. He was on his way, it appears, to Monterey, and when within thirty miles, his own horse having given out, he turned him adrift, and lassoed one belonging to another man, which he rode in, and then set him at liberty as he had his own.  The owner arrived soon after, recovered his horse, and had the Indian arrested, who confessed the whole affair, and only plead in excuse that his own horse had become too tired to go further.  I sentenced the Indian to three months' labor on the public works.  He seemed at first very much surprised at what he considered the severity of the sentence; but said he should work his time out faithfully, ad give me no further trouble.  As he was half-naked, I ordered him comfortable apparel, and then delivered him over to Capt. Mervin, to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, AUG. 21.  A Californian is most at home in his saddle; there he has some claims to originality, if not in character then in costume.  His hat, with its conical crown and broad rim, throws back the sun's rays from its dark, glazed surface.  It is fastened on by a band which passes under his chin, and rests on a red handkerchief, which turbans his head. from beneath which his black locks Sow out upon the wind.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The collar of his linen rolls over that of his blue spencer, which is open under the chin, is fitted closely to his waist, and often ornamented with double rows of buttons and silk braid.  His trowsers, which are fastened around his loins by a red sash, are open to the knee, to which his buckskin leggins ascend over his white cotton drawers.  His buckskin shoes are armed with heavy spurs, which have a shaft some ten inches long, at the end of which is a roller, which bristles out into six points, three inches long, against which steel plates rattle with a quick, sharp sound.</P>
009.sgm:<P>His feet rest in stirrups of wood, carved from the solid oak, and which are extremely strong and heavy. His saddle rises high fore and aft, and is broadly skirted with leather, which is stamped into figures, through the interstices of which red and green silk flash out with gay effect.  The reins of his bridle are thick and narrow, and the headstall is profusely ornamented <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, AUG. 22.  Our little paper, the Californian, made its appearance again to-day.  Many subscribers have Sent in their names since our last, and all have paid in advance.  It is not larger than a sheet of foolscap; but this foolscap parallel stops, I hope, with the shape.  Be this as it may, its appearance is looked for with as much interest as was the arrival of the mail by the New Yorkers and Bostonians in those days when a moon waxed and waned over its transit.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, AUG. 23.  Officiated today on board the Savannah.  There is no Protestant church here. Emigrants have generally become Roman Catholics. Policy, rather than persuasion or conviction, suggested it. Men who make no pretensions to religion, have nothing to give up in the shape of creeds or conscientious scruples.  They are like driftwood, which runs into the eddy which is the strongest; or like migratory birds, which light where they can find the best picking and the softest repose.  The woodpecker never taps an undecayed tree; and a worldling seldom embraces a thoroughly sound faith.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III. A THIEF OBEYING  ORDERS.--GAME.--NO PENITENTIARY SYSTEM.--THE CALIFORNIA CART ON A GALA-DAY.--THE RUNAWAY DAUGHTER.--FAITH OF THE INDIANS.--RETURN FROM THE WAR.--FIRST TRIAL BY JURY.--INDIAN AND HIS SQUAW ON THE HUNT.--WHALES IN THE BAT.--THE TWO GAMBLERS.--LADIES ON HORSEBACK.--MERRIMENT IN DEATH.--THE ENGLISHMAN AND HIS MISTRESS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, AUG. 24.  One of our officers, bound with dispatches to San Juan, fell in with an Indian to-day, on a horse, without saddle or bridle, save a lasso; and knowing from this circumstance that he had stolen the animal, ordered him to come to Monterey and deliver himself up to the alcalde, and then passed on.  So on the Indian came with the horse, and presented himself at our office.</P>
009.sgm:<P>I asked him what he wanted; he told me the order he had received; but I could not at first comprehend its import, and inquired of him if he knew why the order had been given him.  He replied, that it was in consequence of his having taken the horse of another man.  I asked him if he had stolen the animal; he said yes, he had taken him, but had brought him in here and given himself up as ordered; that he could not escape, as the Americans were all over California. I told him stealing a horse was a crime, and sentenced him to three months' labor on the public works.  He was half naked.  I ordered him comfortable clothes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Oats in California grow wild. The last crop plants the next, without the aid of man.  The yield is sufficient to repay the labors of the husbandman, but is gratuitously thrown at his feet.  But the fecundity of nature here is not confined to the vegetable kingdom, it is characteristic of the animals that sport in wild life over these hills and valleys.  A Sheep has two lambs a year; and if twins, four: and one litter of pigs follows another so fast that the squeelers and grunters are often confounded.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, AUG. 26.  The Californians breakfast at eight, dine at twelve, take tea at four, supper at eight, and then go to bed--unless there is a fandango. The supper is the most substantial meal of the three, and would visit anybody but a Californian with the nightmare.  But their constant exercise in the open air ad on horseback, gives them the digestion of the ostrich.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The only meat consumed here to any extent 15 beef.  It is beef for breakfast, beef for dinner, and beef for supper.  A pig is quite a rarity; and as for chickens, they are reserved for the sick.  The woods are full of partridges and hare; the streams and lagoons <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, AUG. 27.  Nothing puzzles me so much as the absence of a penitentiary system.  There are no work-houses here; no buildings adapted to the purpose; no tools, and no trades.  The custom has been to fine Spaniards, and whip Indians.  The discrimination is unjust, and the punishments ill suited to the ends proposed.  I have substituted labor; and have now eight Indians, three Californians, and one Englishman at work making adobes.  They have all been sentenced for stealing horses or bullocks.  I have given them their task: each is to make fifty adobes a day, and for all over this they are paid. They make seventy-five, and for the additional twenty-five each gets as many cents.  This is paid to them every Saturday night, and they are allowed to get with it any thing but Nm.  They are comfortably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, AUG. 28.  The ox-cart of the Californian is quite unique and primitive.  The wheels are cut transversely from the butt-end of a tree, and have holes through the centre for a huge wood axle.  The tongue is a long, heavy beam, and the yoke resting on the necks of the oxen, is lashed to their horns, close down to the root; from these they draw, instead of the chest, as with us; and they draw enormous loads, but the animals are large and powerful.</P>
009.sgm:<P>But to return to the cart. On gala days it is swept out, and covered with mats; a deep body is put on, which is arched with hoop-poles, ad over these a pair of sheets are extended for a covering.  Into this the ladies are tumbled, when three or four yoke of oxen, with as many Indian drivers, and ten times as many dogs, start ahead.  The hallooing of the drivers, the barking of the dogs, and the loud laughter of the girls make a common chorus. The quail takes to the covert as the roaring establishment comes on, and even the owl suspends his melancholy note. What has his sad tone to do amid such noise and mirth?.  It is like the piping cry of an infant amid the revelry ad tumult of the carnival.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, AUG. 29. Four Californians--a girl, her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>I now expected we should have a wedding at once, and that I might be called upon to officiate.  But to my utter surprise, on asking the girl if she insisted on marrying her lover, she declined.  She said her escape with him was a wild freak; she had now got over it, and wished to return with her father.  This fell like a death-knell on the ears of her lover, who again protested his affection and her purity.  Having been once myself a disappointed suitor, I had a fellow feeling for him, and advised the girl to marry him; but she said no, that she had changed her mind; so I delivered her to her father, and told my brother in misfortune he must wait; that a woman who had changed her mind once on such a subject, would change it again.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, AUG. 30.  Several gentlemen and ladies of Monterey were present to-day at our service on board the Savannah.  I have it in contemplation to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The wild Indians here have a vague belief in the soul's immortality.  They say; "as the moon dieth ad cometh to life again, so man, though he die, will again live."  But their future state is material; the wicked are to be bitten by serpents, scorched by lightning, and plunged down cataracts; while the good are to hunt their game with bows that never lose their vigor, with arrows that never miss their aim, and in forests where the crystal streams roll over golden sands.  Immortal youth is to be the portion of each; and age, and pain, and death, are to be known no more.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, AUG. 31.  I am at last forced into a systematic arrangement of my time; without it, I could never get through with my duties.  I rise with the sun, read till eight o'clock, and then breakfast; at nine, enter on my duties as alcalde, which confine me till three, P. M., then dine; and at four take my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>When the Sabbath comes, I preach; my sermons are composed in the woods, in the court-room, or in bed, just where I can snatch a half-hour.  I often plan them while some plaintiff is spinning a long yarn about things and matters in general, or some defendant is losing himself in a labyrinth of apologetic circumstances.  By this forbearance both are greatly relieved; one disburdens himself of his grievances, the other lightens his guilt, and, in the mean time, my sermon develops itself into a more tangible arrangement.  My text might often be--"And he fell among thieves."</P>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPT. 1.  It is singular how the Californians reckon distances.  They will speak of a place as only a short gallop off, when it is fifty or a hundred miles distant.  They think nothing of riding a hundred and forty miles in a day, and breaking down three or four horses in doing it, and following this up by the week.  They subsist almost exclusively on meat, and when travelling, sleep under the open sky.  They drive their ox-carts, loaded with lumber or provisions, two hundred miles to market. Their conceptions seem to annihilate space.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 2.     The officers of Gen. Castro <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, SEPT. 3.  Dispatches were received this morning, by courier, from Com. Stockton, dated at the Pueblo de los Angeles.  They contain his second address to the people of California, which defines the new attitude in which the country is placed by the declaration of war between the United States and Mexico.  The address is humane in its tone, expansive and vigorous in its spirit.  It has had the salutary effect to set the Community at rest, by establishing in the minds of the wavering the full conviction that California is henceforth a part of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, SEPT. 4.  I empannelled to-day the first jury ever summoned in California.  The plaintiff and defendant are among the principal citizens of the country.  The case was one involving property on the one side, and integrity of character on the other. Its merits had been pretty widely discussed, and had called forth an unusual interest.  One-third of the jury were Mexicans, one-third Californians, and the other third Americans.  This mixture may have the better answered the ends of justice, but I was apprehensive at one time it would embarrass the proceedings; for the plaintiff spoke in English, the defendant in French, the jury, save the Americans, Spanish, and the witnesses all the languages known to California. But through the silent attention which prevailed, the tact of Mr. Hartnell, who acted as interpreter, and the absence of young lawyers, we got along very well.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The examination of the witnesses lasted five or six hours; I then gave the case to the jury, stating the questions of fact upon which they were to render their verdict.  They retired for an hour, and then returned, when the foreman handed in their verdict, which was clear and explicit, though the case itself was rather complicated.  To this verdict, both parties <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPT. 5.  I encountered on my hunting excursion to-day a wild Indian, with a squaw and papoose.  They were on horses, he carrying his bow, with a large quiver of arrows hung at his side, and she with the child in the bunt of her blanket, at the back.  They were dashing ahead in the wake of their dogs, which were in hot chase of a deer.  The squaw stuck to her fleet animal as firmly as the saddle in which she sat, and took but little heed of the bogs and gullies over which she bounded.  His glance was directed to a ridge of rocks, over which he seemed to expect the deer to fly from the field of wild oats through which the chase lay.  I watched them till they disappeared in their whirlwind speed over the ridge.  Whether the deer fell into their hands or escaped, I know not; but certainly I would not hazard my neck as they did theirs for all the game even in the California forests.  But this, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, SEPT. 6.  The bell of the Roman Catholic church, which has been silent some weeks, lung out loud and clear this morning.  I directed the prisoners, sentenced to the public works, to be taken to the service.  I had given them soap, and sufficient time to clean their clothes, on Saturday; though having but one suit, they had only their blankets for covering while these were washing and drying.  With a marine at their head, armed and equipped, they made quite a respectable appearance.  Their conduct, during service, was reported to me as very becoming. They may yet reform, and shape their lives after the precepts of morality and religion.  My own service was on board the Savannah, where we had the officers of the Erie.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, SEPT. 7.  We have been looking for a whale-ship, or spouter, as she is called by our sailors, to come in here, and take care of the whales which are blowing around us.  One belonging to the genuine old Nantucket line, came to anchor last evening. She had been on the northwest coast in pursuit of the black whale; but found them so wild, owing to the havoc that has been made among them, that she captured but very few.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This morning her boats were lowered, and their crews put off in pursuit of one of these monsters.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPT. 8.  We have had for the last five days hardly an hour of sunshine, owing to the dense fogs which prevail here at this season.  These murky vapors fill the whole atmosphere; you seem to walk in them alone, like one threading a mighty forest. A transcendentalist might easily conceive himself a ghost, wandering among the cypresses of a dead world.  But, being no ghost or transcendentalist, I had a fire kindled, and found refuge from the fog in its cheerful light and warmth.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 9.  A Californian came into my court in great haste last evening, ad complained that another Californian was running away with his oxen.  Suspecting the affair had some connection with a gambling transaction, I immediately handed him a warrant for the arrest of the fugitive, when off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>I then asked the plaintiff if the oxen were his; he said they were.  I asked him of whom he obtained them; he said of the man who attempted to run away with them.  I asked him what he gave for them; this was a puzzler, but after hemming and hawing for a minute, he said he had played for them, and won them.  I asked him what else he had won of the man; he replied, the poncho, and a thin jacket, both of which he had On:  I then ordered them both into the calaboose for the night.  The winner, who had apprehended the other, and who, no doubt, expected to get the oxen at once, looked quite confounded.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This morning I had the two gamblers before me; neither of them looked as if he had relished much his prison-couch.  I made the winner return all his ill-gotten gains, oxen, poncho, and jacket, and then fined them each five dollars.  The one who had served the warrant shrugged his shoulders, as if he had made a great mistake.  There was no escape from the judgment, so they paid their fine and departed.  The next time they gamble, they will probably settle matters between themselves, without a resort to the alcalde.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, SEPT. 10.  My alcalde duties required me to-day to preside at the executive sale of two dwelling-houses and a store.  I was about as <HI REND="italics">au fait</HI>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, SEPT. 11.  An express came in today, bringing the intelligence that a thousand Wallawalla Indians had reached the Sacramento from Oregon. They have come, as the express states, to avenge the death of a young chief, who was wantonly and wickedly killed about a year since, by an American emigrant.  They belong to a tribe remarkable for their intelligence, hardihood, and valor.  Their occupation is that of trappers, and they are thoroughly used to fire-arms.  Capt. Mervin has sent a force from the Savannah, and Capt. Montgomery another from the Portsmouth, to arrest their progress.  Capt. Ford, with his company of California rangers, who understand the bush-fight, will also be on the spot.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPT. 12.  My partner in the "Californian" has been absent several weeks.  All the work of the office has devolved upon a sailor, who has set the type for the whole paper, with fingers stiff as the ropes around which they have coiled themselves into seeming fixtures.  Yet the "Californian" is out, and makes a good appearance.  Who would think, except in these uttermost ends of the earth, of issuing a weekly journal, with only an old tar to set the type, and without a solitary exchange paper! By good fortune, a hunter brought along a copy of the "Oregon Spectator;" it was quite a windfall, though the only intelligence it contained from the United States, was that brought its editor by some overland emigrant.  The "Spectator" speaks of the institutions of the "City of Oregon" with as much reverence as if they had the antiquity of the Egyptian Pyramids; when there is scarce a crow s nest which does not date further back.  But age is no certain evidence of merit, since folly runs to seed as fast as wisdom.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.  FUNERAL CEREMONIES.--ELECTED ALCALDE--FLIGHT OF Gen. CASTRO.--LOS ANGELES TAKEN.--OVEN-BATH.--GROG IN A CHIMNEY.--THE FLEA.--FIRST RAIN.--RISING OF THE CALIFORNIANS.--MEASURES OF COM. STOCKTON.--MORMONS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, SEPT. 13.  Officiated to-day on board the Savannah, and called on my way to see a sick child, whose mother seems at a loss whether to grieve or rejoice in prospect of its death.  If it dies, she Says it will at once become a little angel: if it lives, it will be subject to sorrow and sin.  She desires, for her sake, that it may live; but, for its own, that it may die.  This balancing between life and death, is common here among mothers.  Their full persuasion of an infant's future bliss, forbids that they should mourn its loss.  They therefore put on no weeds, and utter no lamentations.  The child, when its pure spirit has fled, is dressed in white, and Stainless roses are strewn upon its little shroud.  It is borne to the grave as if it were to be laid at the open portal of heaven, and few are the tears which fall on that threshold of immortal bliss.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, SEPT. 14. A letter from the Sacramento, received to-day, informs me of the arrival of two thousand emigrants from the United States.  They are under the guidance of experienced men, and have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPT. 15. The citizens of Monterey elected me to-day alcalde, or chief magistrate of this jurisdiction--a situation which I have been filling for two months past, under a military commission.  It has now been restored to its civil character and functions.  Their election is undoubtedly the highest compliment which they can confer; but this token of confidence brings with it a great deal of labor and responsibility.  It devolves upon me duties similar to those of mayor of one of our cities, without any of those judicial aids which he enjoys.  It involves every breach of the peace, every case of crime, every business obligation, and every disputed land-title within a space of three hundred miles.  From every other alcalde's court in this jurisdiction there is an appeal to this, and none from this to any higher tribunal. Such an absolute disposal of questions affecting property and personal liberty, never ought to be confided to one man.  There is not a judge on any bench in England or the United States, whose power is so absolute as that of the alcalde of Monterey.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 16. The Congress, bearing the broad pennant of Com. Stockton, returned last evening from her trip to the south.  She has captured, during her absence, Santa Barbara, San Pedro, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, SEPT. 17. The U. S. ship Cyane, under Commander Du Pont, proceeded from this port to San Diego, took that important place, and landed Col. Fremont, with his riflemen, who hastened to cut off the retreat of Castro.  He would have done it could he have anticipated his route; but to overtake him was impossible, as the general had taken the precaution <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, SEPT. 18.  A bearer of dispatches from Commodore Stockton to our government is to leave to-morrow morning in the Erie, and we are all busy in writing letters home by him.  The Erie is to take the dispatch-bearer to Panama, and then proceed to the Sandwich Islands.  We have not received any letters from home since we sailed from Callao; the year has rolled from the buds of spring into the sear leaf of autumn since any intelligence has reached us from those we love.  Death may have stricken them into the grave, but the sad tidings is yet a melancholy secret.  We ought to have a regular mail between the United States and California.  We seem remarkably eager to possess ourselves of foreign territory, and then leave the wild geese to convey all intelligence.  If the land is only ours, and those at home can hear from it once in fifty or a hundred years, that will do; a more frequent communication would be quite superfluous.  Had we possessed Egypt in the days of Cheops, all information would still be considered seasonable which should come when his pyramid had crumbled.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPT. 19.  I encountered to-day a company of Californians on horseback, bound to a picnic, each with his lady love on the saddle before him.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, SEPT. 20.  At the invitation of Captain Richardson, I preached this afternoon on board the Brooklyn.  The crew assembled in the cabin, which the captain had converted for the occasion into a chapel.  None attended by compulsion but all were present of their free will.  The good order and respeCtful attention which prevailed showed the spirit which pervaded the ship, and Conveyed a testimony of the wise and Christian conduct of the captain which none could mistake.  I have never met with a ship where a greater degree of harmony and alacrity in duty were observable; all this, too, without any resort to physical force; such is the result of moral influence when brought into full play.  Give us more of this in the navy.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, SEPT. 21.  A Californian mother came to me to-day to plead her son out of prison.  He had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPT. 22.  The frigate Savannah sailed this morning for San Francisco.  She left her berth, where she has lain since our flag was raised here, and with her royals set, glided gracefully out of the bay. The Congress gave her three cheers as she passed,--still she goes with a heavy heart.  The time of her crew is out; they are almost half the circuit of the globe from their home, and have now, seemingly, as little prospect of reaching it as they had a year since. Com. Stockton went on board a few days since and addressed them, but even with his happy tact in inspiring enthusiasm, it was difficult to arouse their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 23.  I was waked this morning by sounds of merriment in the street.  Day had only begun to glimmer, and its beam was contending with the glare of rockets, flashing over the lingering shadows of night.  The child which I had visited a few evenings since had died, and this was its attendant ceremony to the grave.  It had become, in the apprehension of those who formed the procession, a little angel--and they were expressing their joy over the transformation.  The disruption of ties which bound it here--its untimely blight--and the darkness of the grave--were all forgotten.  Its little coffin was draped in white, and garlanded with flowers; and voices of gladness, ringing out from childhood and youth, heralded its flight to a better world.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, SEPT. 24.  An Englishman called at the court to-day, and desired me to issue a warrant for the apprehension of his mistress, who he said had run away and carried off a rich shawl and diamond breastpin which did not belong to her.  I told him, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, SEPT. 25.  The Congress left her moorings last evening, and held her course majestically out of the bay for San Francisco.  Com. Stockton proposes, while there, to construct batteries which can command the entrance to the harbor, and afford protection to our merchantmen in the absence Of our squadron.  The new city Will probably be located before his return.  It is the point towards which all eyes are now turned.  The tide of emigration is setting there with as much steadiness and strength as the rivers which roll into its capacious bosom.  The day is coming when the spires of a great city will be mirrored in its waters.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPT. 26.  The Indians here are practical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>But many, without any ailment, resort to this bath as a luxury.  They will stay in the oven till they are hardly able to crawl out and reach the stream.  It is great fun for the more sturdy ones to lift out the exhausted and dash them in the flood.  You hardly expect to see them rise again, but up they come, and regain the earth full of life and vigor.  The reaction is instantaneous, and the effect, I have no doubt, in many cases beneficial.  It, at least, gives them a good washing, which they would hardly get without, and which they too often need.  The Indian also takes to the water to quench the flames of rum.  His poor mortal tenement is often wrapped in such a conflagration.  It would be a good thing if all the rum-drinkers could be marched once a week under the falls of Niagara.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, SEPT. 27.  There is no day in the week in which my feelings run homeward so strongly as on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, SEPT. 28. When Monterey was taken by our squadron, an order was issued by the commander-in-chief that all the grog-shops should be closed.  The object of this was to prevent disorder among the populace and among the Sailors, whose duties as a patrol confined them to the shore.  It was with great difficulty that this order could be enforced.  All moderate fines failed to secure its observance.  The price of aguardiente rose to four and five dollars the bottle, more than ten times its original cost: for such a premium the shopkeeper would run the hazard of the penalty.</P>
009.sgm:<P>We searched for it as for hid treasures, but only in one instance found its hiding-place.  This was in a chimney, hanging about midway from the top. When discovered, the shopkeeper laughed as loudly as they who made the search.  He was fined, not for having grog in his chimney, for that is a very good place for it, but for retailing it at his counter.  An offer of four or five dollars from a customer never failed to bring down a bottle.  He paid his fine of twenty-five dollars, but begged hard for the liquor.  I took it into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPT. 29.  A brother and sister of a Mexican family applied to me to-day for permission to leave their mother.  On inquiring the cause of this singular request, they stated that their father was dead, and that their mother by her immoralities had brought sore discredit on their house.  I ascertained from other sources the truth of their statement, and then gave them permission to rent another dwelling. They were both modest and genteel in their appearance, but jealousy of a sister's fair reputation had prevailed with the brother over filial affection.  And yet when he spoke of his mother his eyes filled with tears.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPT.  30.  An express arrived last night from the Pueblo below, bringing the startling intelligence that the populace had risen upon the small American force left there under command of Capt. Gillespie--that the insurgents had entire possession of the town--that the Americans were closely besieged in their quarters, and it was doubtful if they would be able to hold out much longer.  The express stated that he left the town under a volley of musketry, which he narrowly escaped, but which took such deadly effect on his horse, that he dropped under him about two leagues out.</P>
009.sgm:<P>He had a permit from the American alcalde to press horses wherever found.  He rode the whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCT. 1.  Com. Stockton, before the departure of the Congress, appointed T. H. Green, Esq., collector of customs at this port.  Mr. G. is a native of Pennsylvania, has resided in this country several years, and enjoys a wide reputation for business habits, and sterling integrity of character. Mr. Hartwell, an Englishman by birth, has been appointed inspector and translator.  He is familiar with all the languages spoken in California, and filled the same office under the Mexican government to which he has been appointed under this.  But we are gratified with his appointment for another reason.  He has some twenty children of his own, and in addition to these, five adopted orphans.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCT. 2.  A Spaniard of some note and noise here, and consul of her Christian Majesty, attempted in court to-day to flourish down the claim of an humble Californian to whom he was indebted some eight hundred dollars.  He said this creditor was once his servant, that he could neither read nor write, and that he felt quite indignant that he should have the assurance to bring him into court.  I told him the first question was, whether he really owed the man the amount claimed: this being settled, we could very easily dispose of the belles-lettres part of the matter.  He at first recollected nothing, except that the man had once been his servant  but on being shown the account, reluctantly admitted that it might be correct.  I told him, if correct, and he had the means, he must pay it, though the creditor were fresh from Congo.  Finding that we had in our court only a horizontal justice, holding its level line alike over kings and slaves, he signed an obligation for the payment in six months, and gave the security required. So much for attempting to liquidate a debt by an hidalgo flourish.  Law which fails to protect the humble, disgraces the name which it bears.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCT. 3.  A heavy mist hung over the landscape this morning till the sun was high in the heavens, and many began to predict rain, a phenomenon which I have not yet witnessed in California. But towards noon the mist departed like a shadow dissolved in light.  The scorched hills lifted their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, OCT. 4.  The presiding priest of this jurisdiction applied to me a few days since to protect the property of the San Antonio Mission. A Spaniard, it seems, who owns a neighboring rancho, had, under color of some authority of the late administration, extended his claims over the grounds and buildings, and was appropriating the whole to his private purposes.  I summoned the Spaniard before me, and asked for the evidence of his right and title to the establishment.  He had no document to exhibit.  His sole claim evidently rested in some vague permission, in which the lines of moral justice were wholly omitted, or too faintly drawn to be seen.</P>
009.sgm:<P>I therefore ordered that the mission buildings and grounds should be delivered back to the presiding priest, and that the fixtures, which had been removed, should at once be restored. The order was forthwith carried into effect. This decision is of some moment, as it will serve as a precedent in reference to other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCT. 5.  A courier arrived to-day from San Francisco, bringing the intelligence that the Savannah had sailed for San Pedro.  They will there land a large force, which will march at once to the Pueblo de los Angeles, and, if possible, bring the insurgents to an engagement.  But the probability is, that they will instantly disband and fly to the forests. If they declined battle, with Gen. Castro and his regular troops at their head, they will undoubtedly do it when left to themselves, unless frantic passion has entirely overcome inherent fickleness.</P>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, OCT. 6.  The usual rate of interest for money loaned here on good security, is twenty-four per cent.  This is sufficient evidence of its scarcity, and yet it is almost valueless when you come to the question of labor.  A foreigner may be induced to work for money, but not a Californian, so long as he has a pound of beef or a pint of beans left.  Nor is it much better with the Indian: take from him the inducements to labor which rum and gambling present, and he will refuse to work for you.  The blanket, which he wore last year, will answer for this; his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Hunger is unknown here; the man who has not a foot of land seems about as independent as he who has his ten-league farm, and has vastly less trouble and vexation.  It is true he will now and then kill a bullock that is not his, but the fact that there are vast herds roaming about which never had an owner, seems, in his estimation, greatly to diminish the private trespass which he commits.  It is with him only as if he had taken a pickerel from a pond instead of the ocean.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, OCT. 7.  The great Mormon company, who came out in the Brooklyn, have had a split. The volcano, it seems, has been rumbling for some time, and has at last broke forth in flame.  The explosion will undoubtedly throw them into different parts of California, and defeat any attempts at a distinct political community.  The difficulty lay in the assumptions of the leader.  He has all the ambition of their lost prophet, without any of his affected meekness.  He attempted the iron rod, without first having persuaded those who were to feel its force that it had been put in his hands by a higher power.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OcT. 8.  One of the rooms in the house which I have rented, has been occupied by some of the goods and chattels of the previous tenant.  To-day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCT. 9.  The trouble of young and old here is the flea. The native who is thoroughly inured to his habits may little heed him, but he keeps the stranger in a constant nettle.  One would suppose, from his indiscriminate and unmitigated hostility, he considered himself the proprietor of all California. Indeed, he does seem to be the genuine owner of the soil, instead of a tenant at will.  It is true he may construct no dwellings, but he will plant himself in every nook and corner of the one which you may construct.  He jumps into your cradle, jumps with you all along through life, and well would it be for those who remain if he jumped with you out of it.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCT. 10.  We are waiting with some anxiety for news from the Pueblo de los Angeles.  A rumor reached here yesterday, that the small American force there would not be able to hold out much longer against the overWhelming odds of the insurgents.  But the Savannah must by this time have reached San Pedro, and her crew be on their march to the scene of action.  They are a body of brave, unflinching men, and are commanded by officers of great firmness and force.  A sailor on land never thinks of running more than he would at sea.  He is trained to stand to his post, and will do so on the field as well as the deck.  The last man who left the ground in that disreputable retreat from Bladensburg was a sailor.  When the rest were far out of sight he remained at his gun, and was wadding home to give the enemy another shot.  In the fight of the Essex many threw themselves out of the ports, determined to drown sooner than surrender.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, OCT. 11.  Another bright and beautiful Sabbath has dawned; but there is little here to remind one of its sacredness.  A few of the larger stores are closed, but the smaller shops are all open. More liquors are retailed on this day than any other three.  I have the power to close these shops, and shall do it.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.  FIRE ON THE MOUNTAINS.--EMIGRANTS.--PISTOLS AND PILLOWS.--LEADERS OF THE INSURRECTION.--CALIFORNIA PLOUGH.--DEFEAT AT SAN PEDRO.--COL. FREMONT'S BAND.--THE MALEK ADHEL.--MONTEREY THREATENED.--SOLDIER OUTWITTED.--RAISING MEN.--BRIDEGROOM.--CULPRITS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCT. 12.  A wide conflagration is Sweeping over the hills which encircle the bay of Monterey.  The forests, and the grass with which they are feathered, are as dry as tinder, and the flame rolls on with its line of fire clearly and fearfully defined. This has become still more grand and awful Since the night set in.  The clouds seem to float in an atmosphere of fire; and the billows, as they roll to the rock-bound shore, are crested with flame.  The birds are flying from their crackling covert, and the wolves go howling over the hills.  It is a type of that final conflagration in which the great frame of nature will at last sink.</P>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, OCT. 13.  Emigrants from the United States are still pouring into the rich valley of the Sacramento.  A letter from one of them says :--" It may not be uninteresting to you to know that the emigrants by land the present season far exceed the expectation of the most sanguine.  No less than two thousand are now in the interior, and within a hundred miles of the settlements.  They bring with them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>These emigrants will change the face of CalifornIa. We shall soon have not only the fruits of nature, but of human industry.  We shall soon be able to get a ball of butter without churning it on the back of a wild colt; and a potatoe without weighing it as if it were a doubloon.  Were it possible for a man to live without the trouble of drawing his breath, I should look for this pleasing phenomenon in California</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, OCT. 14.  The success of the insurgents at the south has emboldened the reckless here. Bands have been gathering in the vicinity to make a night assault on Monterey.  Their plan is to capture or drive out the small American force here, and plunder the town.  Those engaged in it are men of desperate fortunes.  The streets to-day have been barricaded, and the true and trusty among the citizens have been formed into a night patrol.  I sleep with my rifle at my bedside, and with two pistols under my pillow.  My servant, who is a brave little fellow, is also armed to the teeth.  He ought to be brave, for he was born in St. Helena, close to the tomb of Napoleon, and must have caught some fire from the hero's ashes.  My house has grated windows, and an entrance that is easily defended against odds, so that we shall probably make a pretty good fight of it.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCT. 15.  No assault yet; but a company of horsemen have been seen to-day crossing the southern plain, and winding off behind the hills at the west.  They have, as a messenger informs us, joined another party much larger than their own, and are now encamped in the woods.  The citizens here who have been true to our flag, feel deeply alarmed; and in truth they have some Occasion, for if the town is sacked they will be among the first sufferers.  I have sent an express to Com. Stockton, who is at San Francisco, where he has been engaged in raising and dispatching a heavy force for San Pedro.  He will be here with the Congress as fast as the winds and waves can bring him.</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCT. 16.  Our relief has come.  The Congress arrived to-day, and the commodore immediately landed, under Capt. Maddox, U. S. marine corps, a sufficient force to repel any attack that may be made. Our friends now breathe more freely.  They may go outside the town without the fear of having their retreat cut off by a flying horseman, and sleep at night without the apprehension of awaking under a flaming roof.  The noble tars of the Congress, when they saw our flag still flying on the fort, hailed it with three stout cheers, which were heard over all Monterey.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCT. 17.  As Soon as the intelligence of the insurrection below reached Com. Stockton, he dispatched the Savannah to San Pedro; and sent fast in her wake a quick coaster, with Col. Fremont and two hundred riflemen on board, who are to land in the night at Santa Barbara, and take the place by surprise.  This was managed with so much celerity and secrecy, that the disaffected here are still ignorant of the fact.</P>
009.sgm:<P>What will be the surprise of the insurgents at los Angeles, if defeated by the forces of the Savannah, to find their retreat cut off by the riflemen of Col. Fremont!  Between these two fires there will be little chance of escape.  Not a few of them have given their parol of honor that they will not, on pain of death, take up arms against the United States. They are now in the field, and their treachery may cost them their lives.  It is painful, but may be necessary to make examples of them.  California will never have any repose while they are in it.  They have headed every revolution that has taken place for years, and they have now headed their last.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, OCT. 18.  I issued, a few days since, an ordinance against gambling--a vice which shows itself here more on the Sabbath than any other day of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCT. 19.  Some twenty men left the precincts of Monterey, last night, to join the insurgents at the south.  They are all men of desperate fortunes, and may find that they have started too late. They who have been duped may perhaps be spared, but the ringleaders are doomed.' There is only one resting-place for them in California.  He who breaks his solemnly plighted faith, can claim no mercy for the past and no confidence for the future.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Were this frantic insurrection sustained by the slightest probability of success, it would relieve, perhaps, its madness and atrocity.  But they who instigated it knew it must end in disaster and blood. They knew its only trophies must be a little plunder, cursed by the crimes through which it had been procured.  They threw themselves down this cataract, and will never again reascend its steep wave. TUESDAY, OCT. 20.  The mode of cultivating land in California is eminently primitive. In December or <illus entity="a009-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A United States deserter, from the fort at Monterey, on his way to the mines, upon the back of a mule which the Vulture claims.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, OCT. 21.  If late in the season, the Californian rarely prepares the ground by any furrowing attempts.  He scatters the seed about the field, and then scratches it in with the thing which he calls a plough.  Should this scratching fail of yielding him sixty bushels to the acre, he grumbles.  In reaping he cuts so high, to save a little trouble in threshing, which is done here by horses, that he loses one-eighth of his crop; but this eighth serves for seed the next season; and what to him is better still, saves the trouble of sowing.  So that his second crop plants itself from the first, and is often nearly as large as its predecessor.  Even the third self-planted crop is quite respectable, and would satisfy a New England farmer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCT. 22.  A mother came to me, to-day, with a request that I would summon before me another woman, who had slandered her daughter.  I tried to dissuade her from it-told her that persevering virtue would outlive all scandal.  But she said she was a poor widow, and the reputation of her family was all she had to depend on.  So I summoned the woman, who confessed her injurious words, but said they had been uttered in passion, and that she now deeply regretted then,.  On her assurance that she would repair as far as in her power any injury she had done, I dismissed the parties.</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCT. 23.  The merchant ship Vandalia is just in from San Pedro, with intelligence from the seat of war. Capt. Gillespie, it seems, had been obliged to capitulate; but the terms were that he should leave the Pueblo with all the honors of war.  He marched out of the town with his flag flying; and, on arriving at San Pedro, embarked on board the Vandalia.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The frigate Savannah soon hove in sight.  Her forces under Capt. Mervin, and those from the Vandalia under Capt. Gillespie, started pit once for the Pueblo. After a march of fifteen miles, they encamped for the night.  But their slumbers were soon disturbed by a shot, which thundered its way into their midst. They seized their arms, but in the darkness of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCT. 24.  Col. Fremont having fallen in with the Vandalia, and ascertained from her that no horses could be procured for his men at Santa Barbara, decided on returning in the Sterling to this port. His arrival has been delayed by a succession of light head winds, and dead calms.  When within fifty miles of the port, a boat was dispatched, which is just in. Several of his men came in her, who are to start in advance in quest of horses.  They will probably have to go as far as the Sacramento, for all the horses in this immediate vicinity have been driven south by the insurgents.  I have lost both of mine; but what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, OCT.  25.  With us the sound of the church.going bell has been exchanged for the roll of the drum.  One of the moral miseries of war is the profanation of the Sabbath which it involves.  There is something in military movements which seems to cut the conscience adrift from its moorings on this subject.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCT. 26.  We shall soon see what the genius of Com. Stockton is equal to in a great emergency.  He will arrive at San Pedro without horses, or any means of procuring them.  They are all driven off or under men who seem as if born on the saddle.  He will encounter on his march to los Angeles the same flying artillery which foiled the forces under Capt. Mervin.  But lie will have several well-mounted pieces; they must be drawn, however, by oxen over a deep sandy road.  If the enemy comes within range, he will open and give them a volley of grape.  In this way he will reach, recapture the place, and unfurl the stars and stripes.  But how he will maintain himself--how he will procure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, OCT. 27.  The prize brig Malek Adhel, commanded by Lieut. W. B. Renshaw, arrived in port this afternoon in thirty days from Mazatlan. She brings the first intelligence of her own Capture. The U. S. ship Warren, under Commander Hull, anchored off Mazatlan on the sixth ult., and found there the Malek Adhel, moored within a hundred and fifty yards of the mole, with sails unbent, and running rigging unrove.  The next day her rudder was to have been unshipped, and she was to have been hauled up the creek for safe keeping.  Commander Hull determined immediately to cut her out; hauled his ship in close to the bar, and sent sixty men in the launch and the three cutters, under charge of Lieuts. Radford and Renshaw, with orders to bring her out, or finding that impracticable, to burn her.  On their approach, the officer in charge escaped to the shore: they boarded her without opposition, unmoored and warped her outside the bar.  While doing this, about two hundred and fifty Mexican soldiers mustered on the mole; another party dragged a field-piece up the hill abreast of the brig, commanding her and the channel to the bar; but upon a second thought the governor determined to offer no resistance, alleging that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, OCT. 28.  The Sterling is just in with Col. Fremont and his riflemen.  They are in a half. starved condition, having been for several days on the very shortest commons.  I never met with a more famished crew.  The call for meat and bread roused up all the butchers and bakers in Monterey.  What an energy there is in downright hunger!</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCT. 29.  Our Indian scouts, who came in yesterday, reported the discovery of a large band of Californians in the cover of the hills within the vicinity of Monterey.  They probably purposed an attack on the town last night, as the garrison had been.weakened by the absence of thirty men, who had left, under the command of Capt. Maddox, for San Juan.  But the unexpected arrival of Col. Fremont frustrated their plans. We might have a battle with them were there horses here; but to attempt it on foot, would be like a man with a wooden leg chasing a hare.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Monterey has at present much the aspect of a military garrison.  The streets are barricaded; a patrol is kept up night and day; no one is permitted to leave without a written passport, and no one allowed to enter without reporting himself to the police.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCT. 30.  One of the guard in charge of Col. Fremont's horses, in the vicinity of the town, was approached, this afternoon, by two Californians on horseback, who inquired if he had seen a buck break from the woods near by.  Having by this natural question laid suspicion, they entered into conversation on other topics, watched their opportunity, seized his rifle, shot him, and dashed off at full speed.  The nefarious act produced a profound sensation in the camp.  The shot, however, proves not mortal, so that the wounded man may yet have an opportunity of facing his foe in the field.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCT. 31.  Enlistments are going on actively among the emigrants recently arrived on the banks of the Sacramento.  The women and children are placed in the missions; the men take the rifle and start for the battle-field: such is their welcome to California.  The Israelites entered the land of promise by arms, and established themselves by the force of their military prowess.  But this is not quite the land of promise, nor are these Israelites who stream over the Rocky Mountains.  But they are a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>They are enlisted into the service mainly through the activity of Capt. Montgomery, who commands the Portsmouth, and is military commandant of the northern department of California.  His measures have been judicious, his action prompt, and he has rendered substantial Service in supplying from the emigrations the sinews of war.  Every American in California shows his entire stature; no one is lost ii, the crowd; no voice is drowned by a general clamor; every action tells.  It is a blow which thunders by itself on the great anvil of time.  It is another rock rolled into the foundations of a mighty empire.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, NOV. 1.  An Indian was taken up by one of our scouts yesterday, who confessed that he was the bearer of a message from a Roman Catholic priest to a party that were arming themselves to join the insurrection.  The message conveyed intelligence of the approach of our forces.  The Indian was sent back to his master with the intelligence that if he attempted any further correspondence with the enemy, it would be at the peril of his life.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, NOV. 2d.  Our bay is full of the finest fish, and yet it is rare to meet one on the table.  There is not a boat here in which one can safely trust himself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, NOV. 3.  A Californian in my employ asked me to-day to pay him a small sum in advance of his services, Stating that he was on the eve of being married, and wanted this advance to enable him to put silver mountings on his saddle and bridle. Had he asked me for money with which to pay the priest, I should have understood the propriety of the request; but the connection between a silver star on the head-stall of his bridle and a marriage celebration, surpassed my dim comprehension. However, as there was a lady in the case, I let him have the money. But it seems it is the custom here, for the bridegroom to appear on his wedding-day upon a splendid horse, elegantly caparisoned.  It is then the silver star shines out.  The noble steed and glittering trappings divide with the bride the admiration of the crowd.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, NOV. 4.  The Californians now in arms number twelve or fourteen hundred.  They are from every section of the country.  Their rallying point is los Angeles   They have made a clean <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Of these twelve hundred in arms, probably not a hundred have a foot of land.  They drift about like Arabs, stealing the horses on which they ride, and the cattle on which they subsist.  They are ready to join any revolution, be its leaders whom they may.  If the tide of fortune turns against them, they disband and scatter to the four winds.  They never become martyrs in any cause.  They are too numerous to be brought to punishment.  No government has been strong enough to set them at defiance, or dispense with their venal aid.  They have now, however, to deal with a power too sagacious to be cajoled, and too strong to be overawed.  They will not be permitted to spring a revolution, and leave its consequences to others.  The results will follow them into every forest and fastness.  They have but one escape, and that leads into Mexico.  Men of substance will regret their loss about as much as the Egyptians the disappearance of the locusts.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, NOV. 5.  The second rain of the season fell last night.  It came down copiously for several hours: multitudes forgot their dreams in listening to its grateful patter on the roof.  The effects of the first shower, which fell a few days since, are visible in the landscape.</P>
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009.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>From the moist meadow to the withered hill,<LB>Led by the breeze, the vivid verdure runs,<LB>And swells and deepens to the cherished eye.><LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, NOV. 6.  Two Californians were arrested to-day by one of my constables, charged with having broken open a shop and robbed it of many valuable articles.  The burglary was committed several nights since, but no clue to the perpetrators could be obtained.  By keeping silent on the subject, one of them had at last the imprudence to offer for sale one of the stolen articles, which was immediately identified, and led to the detection of both.  Most of the property was found in their possession, and restored to its owners.  The evidence of their guilt being conclusive, and there being no young lawyer here to pick a flaw in the indictment, or help them to an alibi they were sentenced each to the public works for one year.  The way of transgressors is hard.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, NOV. 7.  In Monterey, as in all other towns that I have ever seen, crimes are perpetrated mostly at night.  The Indian, however, steals when the temptation presents itself and trusts luck for the consequences.  And in truth if any being has a right to steal, it is the civilized Indian of California.  All the mission lands, with their delicious orchards, waving grain, flocks and herds, were once his, and were stolen from him by the white man.  He has only one mode of retaliating these wrongs.  But Californians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:and foreigners, more wary, steal at night.  It is as true here as elsewhere-- <HI REND="blockindent">"That when the searching eye of heaven is hid<LB>Behind the globe, and lights the lower world,<LB>Then thieves and robbers range abroad unseen,<LB>Tn murders, and in outrage, bloody here;<LB>But when, from under this terrestrial ball,<LB>He fires the proud tops of the eastern pines,<LB>And darts his light through every guilty hole,<LB>Then murders, treasons, and detested sins,<LB>The cloak of night being plucked from off their backs,<LB>Stand bare and naked, trembling at themselves."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, NOV. 8.  There is not, except myself, a Protestant clergyman in California.  If the tide of emigration continues, there will be thousands here without a spiritual teacher.  Years must elapse before any can be trained here for the sacred office. The Supply must come from abroad.  The American churches must wake up to their duty on this subject. These emigrants are their children, and they should extend to them their most jealous care.</P>
009.sgm:<illus entity="a009-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Thomas O. Larkin</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI. SANTA BARBARA TAKEN.--LIEUT. TALBOT AND HIS TEN.--GAMBLING IN PRISON.--RECRUITS.--A FUNNY CULPRIT.--MOVEMENTS OF COM. STOCKTON.--BEAUTY AND THE GRAVE.--BATTLE ON THE SALINAS.--THE CAPTAIN'S DAUGHTER.--STOLEN PISTOLS.--INDIAN BEHIND A TREE.--NUPTIALS IN CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, NOV. 9.  The guard of ten, commanded by Lieut. T. Talbot, and posted at Santa Barbara to maintain the American flag, arrived here last evening. When the insurrection broke out at the south, they were summoned by some two hundred Californians to surrender.  They contrived, however, under cover of night, to effect their escape.  Their first halt was in a thicket, to Which they were pursued by some fifty of the enemy on horseback.  They waited, like lions in their lair, till the foe was within good rifle shot, and then discharged their pieces with terrific effect. The surviving assailants left their dead, and rushed back for reinforcements: but in the mean time, the hardy ten had pushed their way several leagues to the east, and gained a new ambush.  An Indian might perhaps have trailed them;  but their pursuers had not this wild sagacity.  They rode here and there, penetrating every thicket, but the right one, and to prevent their escape at night, set fire to the woods. But one ravine, overhung with green pines, covered them with its mantling shadows; through this they made their noiseless escape.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>To avoid the Californians, who were coming down in great numbers from the north to join their comrades in the south, the party of ten held their course to the east.  They Spent several days in attempting to find the pass which leads through the first range of the Californian mountains to the valley of the San Joaquin; but being unacquainted with the topography of the country, their utmost efforts were baffled. During this time they suffered greatly from hunger and thirst: the rugged steeps, among which they were straying, yielded neither streams nor game.  At last, they fell in with a Cholo, the Arab of California, who kindly offered to conduct them to the mountain pass, and surrendered the use of his horse to carry their knapsacks and blankets.  The pass was gained; but their hospitable guide still continued with them till they reached a tribe of Indians on the opposite side. Here he took leave of them, declining all compensation for his pains, and started back for his wild mountain home.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The Indians received them kindly, gave them their best acorns to eat, and their purest water to drink. These are the Indians who were brought before me a few months since, charged with an attempt to steal a drove of horses from Carmel.  There being no positive proof of guilt, they were kindly treated, and instead of being threatened with dungeons and death, were dismissed with many beautiful presents.  These presents they still preserved, and exhibited them with evident gratification and pride to their new guests.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>Lieut. Talbot and party, guided by these faithful Indians, now held their course through the valley of the San Joaquin.  Their progress was delayed by the sickness of one of their companions, whom they were obliged to carry on a litter.  They subsisted entirely on the wild game which they killed.  They were all on foot; and after travelling nearly five hundred miles in this manner, reached Monterey, where they were welcomed to the camp of Col. Fremont with three hearty cheers.</P>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, NOV. 10.  The merchant ship Euphemia arrived to-day from the Sandwich Islands, bringing the intelligence that the Columbus, bearing the broad pennant of Com. Biddle, had sailed from Honolulu for Valparaiso.  We shall not then see that noble ship on this coast; she is bound homeward round the Cape.  Her eight hundred men, with Com. Biddle at their head, would have been a great accession to our strength. It is not, however, a naval force of which we stand in greatest need.  The war in California can never be decided from the deck.  We want some five hundred horsemen, thoroughly accustomed to the saddle and the rifle, and a few pieces of flying-artillery.  Without these we shall have constant attempts at revolution.  They will invariably end in the defeat of those who get them up, but will involve private property and the public tranquillity.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, NOV. 11.  I found one of our prisoners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, NOV. 12.  Capt. Grigsby arrived today from Sonoma with thirty mounted riflemen and sixty horses, and joined Col. Fremont's encampment. Capt. Hastings is expected in every day from San Jos&eacute; with sixty men, well mounted, and twice that number of horses.  Every rider here, destined on an arduous expedition, must have one or two spare horses, especially at this season of the year, when no feed can be procured except the slender grass which has sprung up in the recent showers, and which contains very little sustenance.  It is easier to procure provender for a thousand horses on a march in the United States than ten here. And yet the table-lands here are covered through the summer with Wild oats.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:But where are the reapers? On horseback, galloping about and carousing at this rancho and that.  Their sickles are the rein, their sheaves a pack of cards, their flails a guitar.  <HI REND="blockindent">"No cocks do them to rustic labor call,<LB>From village on to village sounding clear;<LB>To tardy swain no shrill-voiced matron's squall,<LB>Nor hammer's thump disturbs the vacant ear."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, NOV. 13.  Two fellows of Mexican origin were brought before me to-day, charged with breaking open the money.chest of the eating.house where they had transiently Stopped, and taking from it about five hundred dollars.  The owner having immediate occasion to go to his chest, discovered his loss, and suspected at once the persons concerned in it.  They were apprehended, and soon after the money was found in the back yard, where it had been hastily buried after having been tied up in a handkerchief, which was identified as the neck-cloth of one of the accused.  One discovery led to another, till the evidences of guilt, involving both, were fully established.</P>
009.sgm:<P>One of them then said there was no use in trying to get rid of the business any longer, and he would now tell the whole story straight as an arrow.  He said that he and Antonio had talked over the matter the night before, and that he then attempted to reach the chest, but that the person in whose room it lay, and who had been asleep, suddenly stopped snoring, and getting alarmed he ran down stairs.  But this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>He told this story with a countenance which played between a tragic and comic expression.  Antonio, who had been both diverted and alarmed by the narrative of his accomplice, when it came his turn to speak, said his companion was the funniest fellow alive; he believed he would joke on the scaffold, if he could shake a kink out of the rope, and get breathing time for it.  They were both a strange compound of wit and villany.  They were sentenced to the public works for three years.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, NOV. 14.  The Savannah arrived here to-day from the leeward, and reports the Congress on her way to San Diego, where she bad gone to reenforce the garrison.  This important post had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:recaptured by the Americans, under the command of Capt. Merrit, an emigrant officer of undaunted courage.  He had been obliged to evacuate it a few weeks before, and was fortunate in being able to get his men on board a whale Ship lying in the offing at the time. But a portion of the force opposed to him having been withdrawn to support the Mexican flag at los Angeles, he landed again in the night, and took!he garrison by surprise.  This being the most southern post in California, Com. Stockton deemed it of the first importance to make its possession secure.  To effect this object, he was obliged to postpone his purpose of recapturing at once the capital of the province.  The best way to fight the Californians is to hem them in.  They never turn upon you as lions at bay.  The possibility of an escape is an element in their courage.  They never borrow resolution from despair.  They are so accustomed to range at freedom, to make their homes wherever adventure or caprice may carry them, that the idea of being cooped up to one place has almost as much privation and misery in it as the slave-ship inflicts upon its captives.<LB><HI REND="blockindent">They still might deem their scope too pent,<LB>Though each had leave to pitch his tent<LB>Where'er his wildest wish might urge,<LB>Within creation's utmost verge.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, NOV. 15.  One of the most beautiful ladies in Monterey has this day been consigned to the silent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:grave.  She was in the bloom of life, and visions of happiness threw their enchantments along the vista of her future years.  She had-all that wealth and beauty can bestow.  Her personal charms were rivalled only by those of her mind.  Her heart trembled through every fibre of her frame.<LB><HI REND="blockindent">"Whene'er with soft serenity she smiled,<LB>Or caught the orient blush of quick surprise,<LB>How sweetly mutable, how brightly wild,<LB>The liquid lustre darted from her eyes!<LB>Each look, each motion, waked a new-born grace,<LB>That o'er her form a transient glory cast:<LB>Some lovelier wonder soon usurped the place,<LB>Chased by a charm still lovelier than the last."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>But she is gone! she has left us like the bird which carolled in the morn, and departed upon its slanting ray.  But her virtues survive in a brighter sphere; her beauty is stamped with immortality; her hand strikes a harp that will pour its melodies when the groves and streams of earth are silent.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, NOV. 16.  A Delaware Indian, quite out of breath, entered Col. Fremont's camp this morning with the intelligence that an irregular engagement took place last evening between a party of forty Americans, and a hundred and fifty Californians, on the Salinas river, about fifteen miles from Monterey. The Americans were coming down from San Juan, and had with them three hundred fresh horses which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The Delaware Indian, when the firing had slackened, left the field to bring the intelligence to Co]. Fremont; but having to turn the enemy's line, he was attacked by three Californians--one of whom he shot with his rifle, another he killed with his tomahawk, and the third fled.  His horse broke down before he got in, and he ran the rest of the way on foot. He reports that Thomas O. Larkin, Esq., the AmerIcan consul, had been captured the night before, while at a rancho between this and San Juan.  He had left Monterey to visit a sick child at San Francisco, and stopped for the night, when he was suddenly pounced upon: nor wife nor child will in any probability see him soon again.  He will be closely guarded; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, NOV. 17.  Col. Fremont, with his three hundred riflemen, took his departure from Monterey this morning.  They presented a very formidable line as they wound around the bay and disappeared in the shadows of the hills.<LB><HI REND="blockindent">Spur on my men; the bugle peals<LB>Its last and stern command,--<LB>A charge! a charge!--an ocean burst<LB>Upon a stormy strand.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>The artillery is under the command of Capt. McLain, an officer of much private worth and professional merit.  He has at present two beautiful brass-pieces, well mounted, and will have two more of the same description on leaving San Juan.  With these he will be able to do good execution.  Nothing alarms the Californians so much as a piece of flying-artillery.  They had rather see the very Evil One come scraggling over the hills.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, NOV. 18.  The horses which the Californians were endeavoring to reach in their rencounter on the river, were all preserved.  Their loss would have been irretrievable in this campaign. The twenty men with whom they were left, declared <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:they would perish to a man sooner than give them up.  Rash as this resolution may Seem, it would, had the emergency occurred, have been terribly realized. The American engaged in this war puts his life on the die.  He must prevail or perish.  If there shall be a general engagement between the forces now in the field, it will be one of the most frightful on record. The Americans are outnumbered three to one,-still they are determined to hazard the issue; and would, probably, were the odds much greater.  As horsemen, the Californians excel them; but they are greatly their superiors in the use of the rifle and in maneuvering artillery.  And these, after all, are the weapons and engines that must decide a hot engagement.  Neither party has any veteran cuirassiers to hew their way to triumph through the cloven crests of the foe.  The most terrific encounters on the field of Waterloo were between those who wielded the glaive.  With them, at least,<HI REND="blockindent">"An earthquake might have passed unheededly away."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, NOV. 19.  How strangely the lights and shadows of life are blended!  As I passed this evening the house of Capt. de la T----, a light strain of music came floating out from the corridor upon the Silent air.  It was the daughter of the captain whose hand swept the guitar which accompanied the modulations of her melodious voice.  Her father and her uncle are both in the ranks of the Californians, leading <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:a forlorn hope, after having broken their parol of honor, and forfeited their lives.  And yet she is gay as if her father were only out hunting the gazelle.  Just list the numbers as they break from her thoughtless heart:-- <HI REND="blockindent">Fly not yet, `tis just the hour<LB>When pleasure, like the midnight flower,<LB>That scorns the eye of vulgar light,<LB>Begins to bloom for sons of night,<LB>And maids who love the moon!<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>And yet that moon before it wanes may gleam upon her father's grave. But she knows it not.  She thinks this war will end as other Californian wars--in smoke.  But it is a tempest-cloud charged with bolted thunder.</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, NOV. 20.  A German complained to me this morning that one of the volunteers, a countryman of his, under Col. Fremont, had stolen from him a pair of valuable pistols.  He strongly suspected the person who had taken them.  I sent for him; he confessed the act, delivered up the pistols, and begged me, as this was his first offence, not to expose him. He was a youth of eighteen or so, slightly built, and with a fair and remarkably ingenuous countenance. I told him he must take heed, as one offence often paves the way to another; but as he was in the campaign, and might soon be on the field of peril and death, his error should rest in silence with his own conscience.  The tears stood in his eyes.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, NOV. 21.  Capt. Foster, it appears, was not shot in the heat of the engagement on the river. He had rushed forward in advance to reconnoiter, and was suddenly surrounded from an ambush, and fell, bravely fighting to the last.  A Delaware Indian, who was hastening to his rescue, finding himself hot-pressed, jumped from his horse behind a tree, from which be shot three of his antagonists, and then effected his escape.  His living breastwork now shows in its scathed rind, how well it served him.  It looks as if the auger-worm had bored there for an age. There is something about a tree, With an Indian behind it, armed with a rifle, pointing this way and that, which awkwardly tests a man's nerves.  You seem to be shooting at the muzzle of his rifle instead of him; and that is not the worst of it, he is all the while shooting at you.  If partial concealment lends a charm to beauty, it also lends terror to an Indian. We think of the brake as much as the serpent coiled in its shadows.  Were lightning to fall without thunder, people would put conductors on their bean-poles; and yet the blazing bolt strikes and shivers while the lagging thunder is yet unheard.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, NOV. 22.  As soon as it will be prudent to withdraw our men from their posts on the Sabbath, I intend to propose a religious service.  We shall soon be able to gather fifty or more.  Every house here has a ball-room where the gay may dance, and a Madonna to whom the afflicted may kneel; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, NOV. 23.  It is said the Californians are born on horseback; it may also be said they are married on horseback.  The day the marriage contract is agreed on between the parties, the bridegroom's first care is to buy or borrow the best horse to be found in his vicinity.  At the same time he has to get, by one of these means, a silver-mounted bridle, and a saddle with embroidered housings.  This saddle must have, also, at its stern, a bridal pillion, with broad aprons flowing down the flanks of the horse. These aprons are also embroidered with silk of different colors, and with gold and silver thread.  Around the margin runs a string of little steel plates, alternated with slight pendants of the same metal.  These, as the horse moves, jingle like a thousand mimic bells.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The bride, also, comes in for her share in these nuptial preparations.  The bridegroom must present her with at least six entire changes of raiment, nor forget, through any sentiment of delicacy, even the chemise.  Such an oversight might frustrate all his hopes; as it would be construed into a personal indifference,--the last kind of indifference which a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The wedding-day having arrived, the two fine horses, procured for the occasion, are led to the door, saddled, bridled, and pillioned. The bridegroom takes up before him the godmother, and the godfather the bride, and thus they gallop away to church.  The priest, in his richest robes, receives them at the altar, where they kneel, partake of the sacrament, and are married.  This over, they start on their return,--but now the gentlemen change partners.  The bridegroom, still on the pillion, takes up before him his bride.  With his right arm he steadies her on the Saddle, and in his left hand holds the reins.  They return to the house of the parents of the bride, where they are generally received with a discharge of musketry.  Two persons, stationed at some convenient place, now rush out and seize him by his legs, and, before he has time to dismount, deprive him of his Spurs, which he is obliged to redeem with a bottle of brandy.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The married couple then enter the house, where the near relatives are all waiting in tears to receive them.  They kneel down before the parents of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, NOV. 24.  Monterey has been for the last two days remarkably quiet.  The excitement occasioned by the battle on the Salinas has sunk into a dead calm.  They who fell have received Christian burial; and they who survived have departed, some to find graves elsewhere.  The great tragedy of life here is so filled with incident that it requires no stage effect, It is the visionary sword which eluded the grasp of Macbeth, turned into flashing steel.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, NOV. 25.  A Californian in trouble, often disregards the suggestions of national pride and personal resentment, and seeks succor Where it can best be had.  One of them Who had been dangerously wounded in the late engagement, came into Monterey this morning, and applied to our surgeon to have the ball extracted from his hip.  He seemed to think that as he had been disabled by one American, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, NOV. 26.  Some of the shopkeepers here have been so long in the habit of smuggling under the former high rate of duties, that now they hardly know how to give up the trick, though there IS very little motive for pursuing it.  I caught a Frenchman to-day endeavoring to evade the municipal duty on rum.  He had a hundred subterfuges, and flew from one to another, like a frightened catbird in the bush.  His words fell so, thick and fast that they quite covered up his falsehoods; the leaves of a wind-shaken tree in autumn conceal the nuts which fall with them to the ground.  It is idle to expect honesty in a man who resorts to it only in the failure of his craft and cunning.  His integrity is like the religion of some sailors--breaking out in shipwreck.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER  VII. SAN JOS&Eacute; GARRISONED.--A CALIFORNIA RAIN.--ESCAPE OF CONVICTS.-- SHOOTING EDWARDS.--TWO WASHERWOMEN.--DEATH OF MR. SARGENT.--INDIAN HENS.--HUNTING CURLEW.--THE CALIFORNIA HORSE.--AN OLD EMIGRANT.--THE GRIZZLY BEAR.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, NOV. 27.  The prize brig Julia, Lieut. Selden commanding, arrived here to-day from San Francisco.  She left there the Savannah and Warren.  Fifty of the Savannah's men had been Sent by Capt. Mervin to San Jos&eacute;, under command of Lieut. Pinkney, where they will form a military post, of sufficient strength, it is believed, to repel any hostile attacks, and maintain the flag.  The northern half of California is now pretty safe; the ranchos may suffer from marauding parties of the enemy, and some acts of violence be committed, but no important post can be wrenched from our possession.  In the south we hold San Diego, and have an enemy in the field at los Angeles.  They will probably break covert at two or three different points; some will fly for Mexico, and some for the sheltered coves of the San Joaquin.  Let those catch then, who can; I would as soon track a chamois among the clefts and pinnacles of the Alps.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, NOV. 20.  It is now near the close of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:that month which in other climes is often one of the most unpleasant in the year; but here it has been one of unrivalled brilliancy.  The sky has been almost without a cloud, the winds have slept, and the soft air has lain on the landscape like a golden slumber.  Such is the tranquil beauty in which the vernal year here sinks to repose.  <HI REND="blockindent">"Ah! 'twere a lot too bless'd,<LB>Forever in thy color'd shades to stray;<LB>Amid the kisses of the soft southwest<LB>To rove and dream for aye;<LB>And leave the vain low strife<LB>That makes men mad; the tug for wealth and power,<LB>The passions and the cares that wither life..<LB>And waste its little hour."<LB>BRYANT.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, NOV. 29.  Two Californians called upon me to-day, to decide a difficulty which had arisen betWeen them in some money transactions.  I told them to call on some week-day-that I attended to no business matters on the Sabbath.  They apologized for interfering with my <HI REND="italics">recreations</HI>
009.sgm:; I told them I had no recreations to be disturbed, but I would not open my office for business on the Sabbath.  Had I told them I was going to a cock-fight, their only wonder would have been that they had not heard of the sport; and both would have forgotten their business in hunting their cash for the ring.  Such is the moral obtuseness which a perversion of the Sabbath induces.  The heart on which the dews of this sacred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, NOV. 30.  We have had at last a true specimen of California showers.  The wind blew a gale from the south.  Cloud on cloud was piled into the zenith, till the Whole dome of heaven was filled with substantial darkness.  The earth lay in an eclipse.  A few heavy rolls of thunder, and the rain fell in torrents; it lasted twelve hours.  Every roof and frowning cliff became a cascade.  Down each ravine rolled an exulting tide.  The aquatic bird dashed onward in its foam to the sea.  Suddenly the wind veered into the west, and in a few moments the sky was without a cloud.  Field and forest flashed out in the splendors of the sun; and on the soft wind came gushes of music from the Wild-wood.  Instead of bleak November, you would have said:  <HI REND="blockindent">"Fairer and brighter spreads the reign of May;<LB>The tresses of the woods<LB>With the light dallying of the west wind play--<LB>And the full briming floods,<LB>As gladly to their goal they run,<LB>Hail the returning sun."<LB>PERCIVAL.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, DEC. 1.  I was startled from my slumbers last night by the report of a musket under my window; and, seizing my rifle, rushed to the door, but could perceive no one near, and only heard, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>It appeared, on investigation, that the sentry, posted at the prison, had stolen the keys from the guard-room, where they were kept, unlocked the outer and inner doors, and then run himself with the convicts. Another sentry, by a preconcerted plan, had also joined them.  Only one prisoner remained in the apartment which had been unlocked.  When asked by me why <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
009.sgm: did not run, he said he would not be seen running from Tophet in such company.  This was the funny fellow who stole the money.  One of those who escaped, was a great overgrown Californian--a monstrous mass of flesh and bone.  He had been shot in the leg in a previous fray, and always affected the cripple, hobbling about on huge crutches, which fairly bent under him.  But last night, when his pursuers were close on his trail, he bounded forward like a rabbit.  Crutches, and all occasion for them, had been left behind. You would have thought some shape of air were flitting before you, but for the heavy puffs which heaved, at brief intervals, from his laboring trunk.  An innocent man escaping from violence has often a hard time of it, but a felon escaping <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, DEC. 2.  A party, well mounted and armed, started this morning in pursuit of the convicts.  They overtook one of them and the two sentries about twenty miles distant.  The sentries still had their arms, Which they surrendered, and delivered themselves up without resistance.  The convict was shot down through the impetuosity of one of the party.  There is a degree of ferocity in shooting down an unarmed man at which humanity revolts. We can hardly find an apology for it, even in the brutal instincts of the savage.  The fate of the two sentries concerned in liberating the prisoners whom they were posted to guard, is uncertain.  If tried by a court-martial, their sentence will be death; if delivered over to the civil authority, they will be sentenced to the public works for a long term of years.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, DEC. 3.  The convict Edwards, found with the two sentries, and who had been shot after he had surrendered, was left in a dying condition on the public road.  My constable left this morning to find him, but was unable to cross the Salinas river on account of the freshet, and its extreme rapidity. His horse got frightened and refused to swim him over.  He fastened him on this side, and, divesting himself of his hat, shoes, and coat, plunged in; but the current, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>He is a man of great humanity as well as courage and resolution, and it was not with his consent that EdWards was left at night-fall, wounded and dying, exposed to a pitiless storm, and to be devoured by Wild beasts.  It was inhuman to leave him in this condition, When he might have been brought in, or taken to some house in the neighborhood.  Those in fault, now that the wrong has been done, and is irretrievable, would gladly veil it from the public eye.  There 15 a tongue in cruelty, which those Who inflict it can never silence.  It will speak out and awaken pangs in the most callous conscience. If we have no mercy on others, how can we expect it for ourselves in that day when we most need it?  <HI REND="blockindent">"Teach me to feel another's woe,<LB>To hide the faults I see;<LB>The mercy I to others show,<LB>That mercy show to me."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, DEC. 4.  The moment a child is born on a farm in California, and the nurse has had time to dress it, it is given to a man on horseback, who, with its future godfather and godmother, ride post-haste with it to some mission, and present it to a priest for baptism.  This Ceremony concluded, the party, full of glee, start on their return; and the little newcomer may now, perhaps, rest a week or two before he starts on another excursion; but after that, hardly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, DEC. s.  Of all the women I have had to deal with here the washer-women are the most unmanageable.  TWO of them entered my office today as full of fight as the feline antagonists of Kilkenny.  It seems they had been out washing in one of the little pools created by the recent showers, when one had taken that part of the margin previously occupied by the other.  War offensive and defensive immediately commenced.  One drew a knife, which had a blade two mortal inches in length, and the other a sharp ivory bodkin.  But what their weapons wanted in terror and strength their ungentle anger supplied.</P>
009.sgm:<P>At last one cried out, "the alcalde;" the other echoed it, and so they both rushed down to the office to have their difficulties settled.  Both of course <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:commenced talking at the Same time; and their stories ran together like two conflicting rivulets forced into the same channel.  There was plenty of tumult and bubble.  When these had a little subsided, I began cautiously to angle for the truth-a difficult trout to catch in such waters.  But one darter after another was captured, till I had enough to form some opinion of those that had escaped. These We discussed till bitter feeling, like biting hunger, became appeased.  The rest was very easily settled.  Both went away declaring either margin of the pool good enough, and each urging on the other the first choice.  <HI REND="blockindent">How gentle is forgiveness! and how sweet<LB>To feel the severed heart flow back again<LB>To one we loved, estranged by hasty words!<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, DEC.  6.  Mr. Sargent, who came out in the Congress in the capacity of clerk to the purser, and who had been left here several weeks since for the restoration of his mind and health, was missed from his quarters on Tuesday last.  He has been laboring for some time under mental aberrations which wear a reasoning show, and which alarm only the close observer.  His amiable disposition and exemplary life exempted him from all reproach, and have excited a general sympathy and concern for his uncertain fate.  He was last seen `Winding his way through the forest which skirts Monterey, towards a ledge of rocks which overhangs the boiling surf of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:the bay. I have traversed the beach for miles, and watched each swell as it rolled in, to see if it bore on its crest aught like a human form.  But nothing came to the shore or eddied in the surge, to resolve mystery and give a painful certainty to doubt.  The sea itself is an awful mystery, and becomes doubly so when the fate of one we loved is locked in the tongueless silence of its unfathomed depths.  <HI REND="blockindent">The waves tell not the fate of those<LB>On whom their hasty water's close;<LB>But deeper still their secrets spread,<LB>That travel with their drifting dead.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, DEC. 7.  The simplest article for the table is often beyond the reach of your money here. I have found it so difficult to procure a few eggs, when required, that I have at last gone to keeping hens.  I purchased six of an Indian woman for six dollars, and a rooster for fifty cents.  On asking the woman why she charged only half price for the rooster, she replied that the fellow laid no eggs, and as for his crowing that did nobody any good. Sounder reasons than these could not he furnished in a much higher place than a hencoop.  The habits of these hens are a little singular.  They are perfectly tame, and are as much at home in the kitchen as the cook.  They never trouble themselves much about a nest, but deposits their eggs where they find it most convenient; one takes the tea-tray, another the ironing-table, a third the oven, and there is one that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, DEC.  8.  The banditti, that have hovered for some weeks past in the vicinity of Monterey, have made it unsafe to venture out on our hunting excursions, unless in sufficient numbers to repel an attack.  But last evening, the want of exercise, and of something to relieve the endless monotony of beef on the table, induced me forth.  I took my boy, and put into his hands one of Colt's revolving rifles, and took myself the fowling-piece.  We had hardly got a mile from town, when two horsemen broke from the covert of the woods, and dashed down in our direction.  I had but little more than time to exchange pieces with my boy, when they were within rifle-shot. Their garb showed them to be Californians.  My heart beat a great deal louder than usual.  But they suddenly wheeled, and soon disappeared behind one of the hills which look out on the bay.  They had no arms, except pistols at the saddle-bow.  Whether they had hostile intentions, I know not: their movements <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, DEC. 9.  The horses of California are of a hardy nature; and it is well for them that they are, considering the inhuman manner in which they are generally treated by the natives.  If a man wants to ride forty or fifty miles from his residence, he mounts his horse, and spurs off upon the gallop. On arriving at the place of his destination, he ties him to a post, where he stands two or three days, waiting for his master.  During this time he is not once fed, and is quite fortunate if he gets a swallow of water.  At last, his rider comes, mounts him, and he takes him back again at the same free and easy gait with which he first started.  This, of course, is confined to the summer season, when the grass has the most substance and nutriment: still it is almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, DEC. 10.  The old as well as the young are coming over the mountains.  I had an emigrant to dine with me to-day, who has recently arrived, and who is seventy-six years of age.  His locks are as free of gray hairs as those of a child, and his eye still flashes with the fires of youth.  He is among the volunteers, and you may see him every day on a spirited horse, with a rifle at his saddle-bow.  He has four sons with Col. Fremont.  They enlisted before they had time to unpack their saddles, and have with them the remnants of the biscuit and cheese which they brought from the United States.  I asked the old man what could induce him at his age to come to California.  He said his children were coming, and so he determined to come too.  I asked him if he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, DEC. 11.  The grizzly bear is the most formidable and ferocious animal in California; and yet, with all this ferocity of disposition, rarely attacks a man unless surprised or molested.  The fellow never lies in wait for his victim.  If the hunter invades his retreat or disputes his path he will fight, but otherwise contents himself with the immunity which he finds in the wildness of his home and the savage grandeur of his nature.  It is never safe to attack him with one rifle; for if you fail to hit him in a Vital part, he is on you in the twinkling of an eye.  Your only possibility of escape is up a near tree, too slender for his giant grasp; and then there is something extremely awkward in being on the top of a tree with such a savage monster at its root.  How long he will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The full-grown California bear measures from eight to ten feet in length, and four or five in girth.  His strength is tremendous, his embrace death.  Had the priest of Apollo fallen into his folds, he would have perished without any of those protracted agonies which the sympathetic muse has wailed round the world.  Nature has thrown over him a coat of mail, soft indeed, but impervious to the storm and the arrow of the Indian.  The fur, which is of a dark brown color, is nearly a span long, and when the animal IS enraged each particular hair stands on end.  His food in the summer is chiefly berries, but he will now and then, on some of his feast days, slaughter a bullock.  In winter he lives on acorns, which abound in these forests.  He is an excellent climber, and will ascend a large oak with the rapidity of a tar up the shrouds of his ship.  In procuring his acorns, when on the tree, he does not manifest his usual cunning. Instead of threshing them down like the Indian, he selects a well-stocked limb, throws himself upon its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The she bear has one peculiarity that must puzzle even the philosophical inquirer.  As soon as she discovers herself with young, she ceases to roam the forest, and modestly retires from the presence of others, to some secluded grotto.  There she remains, while her male companion, with a consideration that does honor to his sex, brings her food.  She reappears at length with her twin cubs, and woe to the luckless wight who should attempt to injure or molest them.  They are guarded by an affection and ferocity with which it would be madness to trifle.  For them she hunts the berries, and dislodges the acorns.  Her maternal care is a beautiful trait in her savage nature, and <HI REND="blockindent">"Shines like a good deed in a naughty world."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<illus entity="a009-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>J. C. Fremont</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.  LITTLE ADELAIDA.--COL. FREMONT'S BATALLION.--SANTIAGO IN LOVE.-- SENTIMENTS OF AN OLD CALIFORNIAN.--THE PRIZE JULIA.--FANDANGO.--WINTER CLIMATE.--PATRON SAINT OF CALIFORNIA.--HABITS OF THE NATIVES.--INSURRECTION IN THE NORTH.--DRAMA IN A CHURCH.--POSITION OF COM. STOCKTON.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, DEC. 12.  Our paper, the only one published in California, made its hebdomadal appearance again to-day.  It is a little fellow, but is half filled or more with original matter.  A paper is much like an infant; the smaller it is, the more anxious the attentions which it requires.  My partner promised  to stick by me, but has been the greater part of the time since its commencement on the bay of San Francisco.  He went there to locate a city, but if rumor speaks truly, has gone off in quest of his Aphrodite before he builds her shrine.  I suppose he thinks there is but little use in a cage without a bird, but there is still less in a bird without a cage.  Birds, however, always pair before they rear their nests.  So that my partner is after all in nature's great line, however wide it may run from the columns of the Californian.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, DEC. 13.  I miss very much the light step and laughing eye of my little friend Adelaida, the infant daughter of our consul, Mr. Larkin.  She was a sweet child, and beguiled with her gladness, many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, DEC. 14.  It is now two weeks since Col. Fremont broke up his encampment in the vicinity of San Juan, and commenced his march south.  His progress has been retarded by a succession of heavy rains, and it is feared that some of the rivers which he must cross, swollen by torrents from the mountains, have been rendered impassable.  His horses may perhaps swim them, but his artillery and ammunition must be floated over on rafts.  The construction of these, especially where the material is not at hand, will occasion long and impatient detentions.  The condition of the roads, soaked as they are with rain, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>He moves upon no idle or vague object.  The great body of the Californians now in arms are at the capital of the southern department, waiting his hostile arrival.  They intend to give him battle, and redeem, if possible, some of the laurels which they lost in their precipitate retreat before Com. Stockton. Their forces outnumber his two or three to one; they excel them as horsemen, but fall far short of them in the dexterous use of the rifle.  They want that coolness, deliberation, self-reliance, and resolute firmness which appertain to the character of the Americans. We wait the issue of the encounter with a profound interest.  Com. Stockton may, perhaps, march from San Pedro and Capture los Angeles, as he has done once before; but with the country around in the possession of the enemy, and the cattle driven off upon distant plains, and the Wheat and flour removed into the gorges of the mountains, he could not subsist his forces.  So at least it would seem; but we shall see. It was the prospect of famine that drove Napoleon from Moscow.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, DEC. 16.  An old Californian, much respected for his intelligence and patriotic virtues, sent, a few days since, a communication to Our paper, written in good, vigorous Castilian, and which will find an echo in the heart of all the considerate portion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>"The political aspirants in California have inflicted upon her since 1836, only a continued succession of evils.  They have seized all the national property and all the missions, as though they were their own patrimony.  These riches they have distributed with a prodigal hand among their satellites; a multitude of officers were created, for whom there was no employment; and military grades established more abundantly than in Paraguay, though with this difference in the result.  Doctor Francia, when he died, left eight millions of dollars in the public coffers; while the military chieftains in this country, at the close of their brief career, have left the country overwhelmed in debt.  And now, to gratify their infatuated ambition, and secure further plunder, have again hoisted the Mexican flag, which they have long hated and cursed.  The rash step taken by these men at the town of the Angeles has only compromised their brethren, and ruined many families.  The wealth of this country consists in cattle and agriculture; to maintain the one and carry on the other, horses are indispensable; but these frantic men have driven off the horses and cattle to meet the exigencies of war. They have given their afflicted country her death-stroke, merely because they are not permitted to retain those offices which they are not capable of filling.  And such outrageous ambition is called by them, love of country!  If there ever existed a spark of patriotism <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Thus writes an old Californian, with the frosts of Seventy winters on his head.  He understands the condition of this country, and the character of her military chieftains, and has the moral courage to tell the world what he thinks.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, DEC. 17.  The United States brig Julia, a prize to the Cyane, left our harbor this morning for the southern coast.  She is a beautiful vessel, rides the water like a duck, and sails with the speed of the wind.  Her masts rake to an angle that might almost startle a Baltimore clipper.  She is commanded by Lieut. Selden, an officer to whose professional attainments she may be safely confided.  She goes south to communicate with Col. Fremont at the Rincon, a narrow pass below Santa Barbara.  The colonel's route will lead him through this pass, which lies hemmed in between the bluff of a mountain range and the dashing surge of the sea.  A small force can defend it against immense odds.  Its advantages are well known to the Californians.  They have often in their previous revolutions made a stand here, though they have never made it quite a Thermopyl&aelig;ae;. Should they post themselves in this pass, the well-trained gun of the Julia may dislodge them, or, at least, act in concert with Col. Fremont on his arrival.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, DEC. 18.  The ladies of Monterey have so many relatives, near and remote, involved in the issue of the war, that they have had but little heart for their customary amusements.  But time, which assuages grief has slowly quelled a sense of peril, and they are gradually coming back into their more gay and social element.  The lively tones of their guitars salute you from their corridors, and often the fandango Shakes its light slipper in the saloon.  It has been customary here for a person giving a dance to apply to the alcalde for a permit, which was never refused, and which always brought to the purse of this functionary three dollars in the shape of a fee.  A similar application was made to me a few days since.  To grant it would be to Sanction the fandango; to refuse it would be an arbitrary exercise of power.  Tack which way I would, I must run on a rock, so I determined not to tack at all, and told the applicant I had nothing to do with his fiddles, fandangoes, or fees, so long as the public peace was not disturbed.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, DEC. 19.  The season is now verging towards mid-winter, and we have not yet experienced the first wrinkling frost.  The hills and valleys, since the recent rains, are mantled with fresh verdure, and here and there the violet opens its purple eye to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, DEC. 21.  The house of the humbler Californian has often but one apartment, and is without fireplace or floor.  Here a family of ten Or fifteen tumble in and sleep on the ground.  If they have guests, which is often the case, they turn in among the rest.  The thicker they lie, of course the less covering they need.  The walls of this promiscuous dormitory are formed of rough piles, driven in the ground, just sufficiently to support a roof that is thatched with flag.  Through the chinked piles the night-wind whistles in gusty glee; through the roof the star-light falls in broken flakes.  The shower-cloud often pauses over it, and, as if in wanton mischief empties its floating cistern.  But little heed the sleepers these freaks of the elements: they have been familiar with them from their birth.  The only beings that seem at all disturbed are the fleas; but they still manage to dodge the shower-drops and secure their nocturnal repast.  Those on whom they commit their depredations spring no rattle, raise no cry of alarm. The thief is there, but they know it not.  Habit has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:exempted them from even a perception of their wrongs.  Happy flea of California!  <HI REND="blockindent">When night-birds fill with wake numbers<LB>The star-lit pauses in the storm,<LB>He deftly springs where Beauty slumbers,<LB>And feasts on her seraphic form.<LB>She little knows who shares her pallet,<LB>Has heard no lover lift the latch,<LB>And, waking, only hears the ballet<LB>Danced by rain-drops on her thatch.<LB>Were all our ills which others tell us,<LB>And all that darken fancy's dream,<LB>Confined to those we knew befell us,<LB>How few our real woes would seem.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, DEC. 22.  A courier arrived last evening from the north, with the startling intelligence that forty or fifty mounted Californians had sallied from the hills in the vicinity of San Francisco, and captured several Americans; among them Mr. Bartlett, chief magistrate of that jurisdiction.  Capt. Weber, as soon as the news reached him on his station at San Jos&eacute;, started With fifty mounted volunteers in pursuit; and fifty more have left Monterey this morning under the command of Capt. Maddox. One party is to come down upon them from the north, and the other is to cut off their retreat to the south.  The plan is well laid, and we shall know in a few days if it has been executed with any decisive results.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, DEC. 23.  It becomes us to keep a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, DEC. 24.  As soon as the sun had gone down, and twilight had spread its sable shadows over the hills and habitations of Monterey, the festivities of Christmas Eve commenced.  The bells rang out a merry chime; the windows were filled with streaming light; bonfires on plain and steep sent up their pyramids of flame; and the sky-rocket burst high over all in showering fire.  Children shouted; the young were filled with smiles and gladness; and the aged looked as if some dark cloud had been lifted from the world.</P>
009.sgm:<P>While the bonfires still blazed high, the crowd moved towards the church; the ample nave was soon filled.  Before the high altar bent the Virgin Mother, in wonder and love, over her new-born babe; a company <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, DEC. 25.  At our last advices, Com. Stockton was at San Diego; the Congress and Cyane had been warped into the harbor, and a large portIon of the officers and crews were in camp near the town. The Californians were in possession of the country, and often presented a formidable force on the surrounding hills.  They were well mounted, and had it In their power to dash down at night on the camp of the commodore.  Still, it was of the utmost importance to maintain this position; but aggressiVe movements were deemed here impracticable  The idea has never been seriously entertained here, that the commander-in-chief could march a body of seamen and marines, drilled into an infantry, to los Angeles, in the face of the flying-artillery of the Californians; and still less that he could subsist his forces there with all the resources of the country in the hands of the enemy.  The war here is not on a great scale, but it impinges, at certain points, with terrific energy. It is not always the magnitude of the field and of the interests at issue, which test most severely the resources of the general.  This California war has to be carried on by means which requires Consummate tact, coolness, and courage.  A few weeks more will decide the fate of the southern department, and with that, the whole tide of affairs here.  That department lost in the pending engagement, our northern positions will be put in imminent peril.  It is an idle dream to suppose the Californians will not fight; give them faithful and competent leaders, and they evince <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, DEC. 26.  It is an old custom here for the shepherds, when they have performed their sacred drama in the church, to repeat it, during the holy-days, in the residences of some of the citizens.  One of the first personages to whom they pay their respects is the chief magistrate of the,jurisdiction; I was accordingly saluted this evening with their festive compliment.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The large hall, occupying the centre of the building, was sufficiently ample to accommodate them, and some fifty gentlemen and ladies as spectators.  They brought their own orchestral accompaniment, which consisted entirely of violins and guitars.  Their prelude had so many sweet harmonies that the listener determined to listen on.  The dialogue and chant of the shepherds would have awakened their appropriate associations, but for the obtrusions of the hermit, hunter, and devil, who now gave much freer scope to their characteristic peculiarities than they did in church.  The hermit forgot that his lash was intended for himself, and began to use it on others.  The hunter left off snaring birds, and commenced setting springes to catch Satan; but his intended victim not only managed to escape, but to decoy the hunter himself into his own net.  The hermit tried to disenchant him through the power of his missal; but this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.  DAY OF THE SANTOS INNOCENTES.--LETTING OFF A LAKE.--ARRIVAL OF THE DALE WITH HOME LETTERS.--THE DEAD YEAR.--NEWLY-ARRIVED EMIGRANTS.--EGG-BREAKING FESTIVITIES.--CONCEALMENT OF CHAVES.--PLOT TO CAPTURE THE ALCALDE.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, DEC. 27.  The dramatic shepherds have just passed my door on their way to the mansion of Gen. Castro, where they are to perform their pastorals.  Their drama is ill suited to the sacredness of the Sabbath: its grotesque appendages, in the person of the wild hunter and apocalyptic dragon, are but little Short of a burlesque on the devotional chant of the shepherds.  Indeed, there is not a truth connected with man's redemption which can derive any force from scenic representation.  Every passage in the life of the Redeemer, every act that be performed, and every precept that he inculcated, are invested with a solemnity which should exempt them from the attempts of dramatic art.  They have a significancy and force which transcend the evanescent triumphs of the stage. The tragedy of the Cross stands alone; no human passion can approach it; it is shielded in its sorrows by the divinity of the sufferer; its love overwhelmed angels; its agony awoke the dead.<HSEP>MONDAY, DEC. 28.  This is the festival day of the Santos Innocentes, and is devoted by the lovers of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:fun to every kind of harmless imposition on the simplicity of others.  The utmost ingenuity is exercised in borroWing, for every article lent has to be redeemed. Although aware of this, still, in a moment of forgetfulness, one succeeded in borrowing my spurs.  A gentleman, who has lived here from his boyhood, lent his cloak, another his saddle and bridle, and a third his guitar.  Two ladies performed feats that would have been difficult on any day.  One borrowed money of a broker, and the other a rosary of a priest. It is rumored, but not credited, that a client has induced his lawyer to allow his case to be amicably adjusted; that a patient has actually persuaded his physician to permit the aid of nature in throwing oil his disease; and that a customer has made a shopkeeper confess an imperfection in his wares. It is said, but doubted, than an old Spanish hidalgo, after being told tb.at his son is engaged in marriage to a peasant girl, will probably sleep before he disinherits him.  It is also said, though few believe it, that a wife, whose husband is going to sea, has consented that he shall take the family breeches With him.  It is further stated, but on no good authority, that a political partizan has hesitated about Voting for his candidate on account of his having been once sentenced to the penitentiary for sheep-stealing.  Several other rumors are afloat, but they are not credited.  One is, that a disappointed lover has persuaded himself that his suit has been rejected without any parental interference; another is, that a young collegian has written <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:a letter to his grandmother without quoting a word of Greek; another is, that a young clergyman has composed an entire sermon without anything about <HI REND="blockindent">"Fixed fate, free will, foreknowledge absolute."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>Another is, that a man of giant intellect and profound erudition has selected as his life-partner a woman of sense; another, that a lady who has had an offer of marriage and rejected it, has kept it to herself; another, that an old bachelor has come to the conclusion that he is less captivating with the girls than he was when younger; another, that a young military officer has taken tea with his aunt without having on his regimentals; that a midshipman has entertained a lady fifteen minutes without a gale or disaster; that a Sexton had been seen shedding a tear; that a Mormon has confessed Joe Smith's Bible a little less authentic, from the absence of the original plates; that a Millerite has forgiven a debt, on account of the nearness of the last conflagration; that a mesmerite, on account of the death.intelligence conveyed by his clairvoyant, has gone into mourning; that an Englishman has been seen with a smile on his countenance without a plum-pudding in his stomach; that an American has said grace at his table without stopping to expectorate; that a Frenchman has stopped his prattle before death had stopped his breath; and, finally, that a new moon, with a drooping horn, has been followed by a dry month.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>While these incredible rumors were afloat, the public ear was startled with the intelligence that a large ship had been driven on the rocks, just behind Point Pinos.  The whole population rushed at once in that direction,-the women to see her go to pieces, the men to seize her cargo, and a widow, who has a son at sea, to save the sailors.  But the ship proved to be the "Flying Dutchman," with phantom hull and masts, and sails through whose gossamer the setting sun poured its effulgent beam.  Some laughed as the spectral fabric dissolved, some grieved in silence over their loss, and one old wrecker hung himself with disappointment.  Thus ended the day of the Santos Innocentes.</P>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, DEC. 29.  During the rains which prevail at this season of the year, a multitude of small streams rush from the hills which encircle Monterey into the lagoon Which lies in the vicinity of the town. This natural basin, replenished by these foaming rivulets, presented this week quite a deep and spacious lake, and began to threaten with inundation the buildings upon its margin.  As it lay several feet above the level of the sea, With only an intervening ridge of sand, it occurred to me that it would be a good scheme to cut a channel between the two. The work was easily accomplished; but my channel of two feet soon widened to forty, and the whole lake came rushing down in a tremendous torrent. It swept every thing before it, and carried two boats, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, DEC. 30.  The phantom ship, which rounded into our harbor a few weeks since, and departed without token or sign, turns out to be a good sound oak reality, in the shape of a sloop-of-war, honored with the name of Dale, bearing the stars and stripes, and commanded by Wm. W. M'Kean.  She sailed from New York on the 6th of June, and has stopped on her way out at Rio de Janeiro, Valparaiso, Callao, Payta, and Mazatlan.  She has brought a large mail for the Pacific squadron.  What an eager breaking of seals there will be!</P>
009.sgm:<P>I am indebted to her for a large package of letters, and for the receipt of one which was written several weeks after she sailed.  It was dispatched alone to Jamaica, thence by the mail steamer to Chagres, thence over the Isthmus to Panama, and thence by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:the steamer to Callao, and then to Lima.  Here it came into the care of my esteemed friend, Mr. M'Call, who forwarded it by the Dale.  It brings me the intelligence of the birth of a son, and of the safety and happiness of a young mother over her first-born. Had this letter, in one of the many mischances to which it was exposed, failed of reaching me, months might have passed away without any intelligence to relieVe my solicitude.  There is a Providence, whose care extends to the condition of each one. Not a spar. row falls to the ground without his notice.  But a long interval of waning moons must pass, and half the earth's circuit be traversed, before I can see that infant being whose dawning light has shed a gladness on my hearth.  In this slow lapse of time what changes may betide, what fearful shadows may fall!  <HI REND="blockindent">"My child, my child! when I shall reach my door,<LB>If heavy looks should tell me thou art dead,<LB>It seems as I should struggle to believe<LB>Thou wert a spirit, to this nether sphere<LB>Sentenced for some more venial crime to grieve<LB>Didst sigh, then spring to meet Heaven's quick reprieve,<LB>While we wept idly o'er thy little bier!"<HSEP>COLERIDGE.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, DEC. 31.  Com. Stockton is Still encamped near San Diego, expecting to march in a few days for the town of the Angels.  He has under his command detachments from the crews of the Congress, Cyane, and Portsmouth, with some thirty volunteers, and has with him several pieces of artillery. His plan evidently is, to attack the position of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, JAN. 1.  Last night, while the sentinel stars were on their mid.watch, the old year resigned its sceptre, and departed amid the wailing hours to join the pale shadows of the mighty past. The strong winds, awaking in grief shook the forest leaves from their slumbers, and poured from cloud and cliff their stormy dirge.  <HI REND="blockindent">"As an earthquake rocks a corse<LB>In its coffin in the clay,<LB>So white Winter, that rough nurse,<LB>Rocks the death-cold year to-day:<LB>Solemn hours! wail aloud,<LB>For your mother in her Shroud."<HSEP>SHELLEY.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>But nature never leaves the throne of time vacant. An heir to her wide domain was invested at once with the imperial purple, while woods and water-falls, the organ cloud and the sounding sea, sung his coronation hymn.  The great tide of time moved on as before, rolling in events pregnant with the fate of nations.  But men, blind to these momentous issues, hail the eventful year--in which perhaps their own coffins swing--with egg-nog!  Out on their frivolity!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, JAN. 3.  The deceased year is in its grave, but its deeds remain.  But few of them, it is true, are to be found in the archives of earth; they have been sealed up and transmitted, by invisible  hands, to Heaven's high chancery.  There they will remain, above the ranges of time and the wreck of worlds. When the sun'S last ray has expired, every line and letter will flash out in characters of living light.  It will then be seen that our minutest action here touches a string that will vibrate forever in the soul; and that issues of happiness or woe, vast as eternity, take their rise in the silent pulses of a hidden thought. We live between two worlds; every impulse we take from this throws an action into the infinitude of the next; we follow it ourselves soon and fast: once beyond the dim veil, we return no more; not a whisper comes back to those we love.  We have gone like a shooting-star over the steep verge of night.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, JAN. 4.  It is mid-winter, and yet the robins are all out, singing as if the buds of May were bursting around them.  You miss none of your favorites in meadow or grove.  Hill and vale are echoing with their wild numbers.  This is not a gush of music that is to be followed soon by silence; it is not an interval of sun-light that is to be succeeded by cloud and hail.  All these charms belong to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JAN. 5.  Many of the emigrants who have recently arrived, are now with Col. Fremont at the south.  By enlisting in this campaign, they will have an opportunity of seeing every important part of California, and will be able to locate themselves with some confidence in their selection of grounds. This will compensate them in some degree in foregoing their first year's tillage. Besides, they generally arrive here with very little means beyond their own enterprise.  They are now receiving twenty-five dollars a month, and have but few temptations for spending it; they will consequently find themselves in funds, small to be sure; but there is a period in almost every man's life when a penny takes the importance of a pound.  "It is more difficult," said the late Stephen Girard, "to make the first hundred dollars, than the next thousand."  But with all due deference to that eminent economist, I have found it extremely difficult to make either, and when made, still more difficult to keep it.  It has slipped out of my hands like a squirming eel in its Slime.  But this has very little to do with the emigrants.  They will, it is hoped, soon be able to return to their families, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, JAN. 6.  As I was sitting in the house of an old Californian to-day, conversing very quietly about the condition of the country, I felt something break on my head, and, starting around, discovered two large black eyes, lighted with their triumph.  It flashed upon me, that the annual egg-breaking festival here had commenced.  The rules of this frolic do not allow you to take offence, whatever may be your age or the gravity of your profession: you have only one alternative, and that is, to retaliate if you can.  You have not to encounter the natural contents of the egg--these are blown out; and the shell is filled with water, scented with cologne, or lavender; or more often, with gold tinsel, and flashing paper, cut into ten thousand minute particles.  The tinsel is rubbed by a dash of the hand into your hair, and requires no little combing and brushing to get it out.  Ladies will work at it for hours, and find some of the spangles still remaining.  When a liquid is used, the apertures are closed with wax, so that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, JAN. 7.  Two or three of the Californians who were engaged against tile Americans on the Salinas, have since been in town; among these, the leader, Chaves, who was wounded on that occasion.  Many attempts have been made to take him, but he has always managed to elude the search. Last night, however, he had an extremely narrow escape.  The officer in command of the garrison, having been informed that he was in a particular house, silently posted his Sentinels around it, and at about eight o'clock in the evening unceremoniously entered. Quick footsteps were heard here and there, and only a part of the ladies were found in the parlor; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The officers apologized for their abrupt intrusion, and stated, very frankly, what their object was: the ladies assured them that they were quite right, and they should afford them every facility and aid that might lead to the discovery of the obnoxious person. They took lights and piloted them through every apartment of the house, opening every closet, and lifting every bed-curtain.  There was no place in garret, cellar, kitchen or out-house on which their tapers did not shed their light; but in none could a trace of the officer whom they sought be found: so they renewed their apologies to the ladies and departed--when out slipped Chaves from between two ladies, who had jumped into a bed for the purpose of concealing him.  They had lain there while the officers were in the chamber; their dark locks floating over the pillows, and their large eyes closed in seeming slumber.  Between them <HI REND="blockindent">"He had been hid--I don't pretend to say<LB>How, nor can I, indeed, describe the where:<LB>Young, slender, and pack'd easily, be lay,<LB>No doubt, in little compass, round or square."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, JAN. 8.  We have as yet no further intelligence in reference to the party of Californians who carried off Mr. Bartlett, of San Francisco.  He had gone into the country, it seems, to attend to some of his official duties, when he was captured, and is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JAN. 9.  How many inventions  a Californian lady has!  One who was harboring a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:Mexican officer that had broken his parol, wishing to do away with all possible suspicion, got up a fandango, to which she took special pains to invite all the American officers.  Such open-door hospitality--such challenging of the public eye--threw an air of freedom and frankness over her whole house.  Everybody acquitted her at once of the least shadow of suspicion.  But while the violins and guitars were trembling and thrilling in concert, and the floor of the old hall was springing to the bounding measures of the fandango, and bright eyes <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Were looking love to eyes that spake again,"<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>the Mexican officer was snugly taking a nap in the great oven, which, Dear the cook-house, silently loomed into the moonlight.  It must have been a long nap, for the stars that kept the mid-watch were relieved before the company broke up.  The officer was then at liberty to leave his oval dormitory to the baker; and creeping forth, had, no doubt, a good laugh with his ingenious hostess over the success of the fandango.  There is no disguise so deep as that which seems to seek none.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, JAN. 10.  I held service to-day on board the U. S. ship Dale.  Though on deck, no inconvenience was experienced from the weather.  The air was soft, and hardly a ripple disturbed the mirror of the sea.  Capt. McKean, in the absence of a chaplain, reads the service himself.  He appreciates the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The captain of a whale-ship applied to Mr. Damon, of Honolulu, to preach on board his vessel, stating very frankly that he had no religion himself, but then he wanted his ship to appear "a little decent."  Now' when a captain applies for a religious service to give an air of respectability to his vessel, it shows that moral truth is in the ascendancy, at least in the dignity of its claims.  There was a time when no such expedient was deemed necessary; but a higher light has struck the mariners who float the great Pacific Their hosannas will yet be rolled to heaven in concert with the loud anthem of her many-voiced waves.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.  DESTRUCTION OF DOGS.--THE WASH-TUB MAIL.--THE SURRENDER IN THE NORTH.--ROBBING THE CALIFORNIANS.--DEATH-SCENE IN A SHANTY.--THE MEN WHO TOOK UP ARMS.--ARRIVAL OF THE INDEPENDENCE.--DESTITUTION OF OUR TROOPS.--CAPTURE OF LOS ANGELES.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, JAN. 11.  I never expected, when threading the streets of Constantinople, where dogs inherit the rights of citizenship, to encounter such multitudes of them in any other part of the world.  But California is more than a match for the Ottoman capital. Here you will find in every little village a thousand dogs, who never had a master: every farm-house has some sixty or eighty; and every Indian drives his cart with thirty or forty on its trail.  They had become so troublesome, that an order was given a few days since to thin their ranks.  The marines, with their muskets, were to be the executioners.  The order, of course, very naturally runs into dog-erels.  <HI REND="blockindent">The dogs, the dogs! my gallant lads--<LB>Let each one seize his gun,<LB>And lead the battle's fiery van,<LB>Though Mars himself should run.<LB>Remember Lodi's blazing bridge,<LB>Marengo's shaking plain,<LB>And Borodino's thunder-clouds,<LB>Where Cossacks fell like rain.</HI>
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009.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Now hurl their howling squadrons down<LB>To Lethe's silent shore;<LB>They bark so loud, we scarce can hear<LB>Our sleeping sentries snore.<LB>Lay low the watch-dog first of all;<LB>For he's a saucy loon,<LB>That bays all night the modest man<LB>Who figures in the moon.<LB>Then down the pointer: he it is<LB>That threads the leaves and grass--<LB>To train the sportman's ready fire<LB>At some poor luckless ass.<LB>Then wing the lap-dog, that pert imp<LB>Befondled by the lair,<LB>And catching all the tender looks<LB>Old bachelors should share.<LB>O'er him, who falls in this dread strife,<LB>The thunder-clouds shall roll,<LB>Through shaking cliffs and caverned hills,<LB>A requiem to his soul.<LB>And dewy stars shall softly bend<LB>From their celestial bowers,<LB>To greet the meek-eyed spring, that comes<LB>To strew his grave with flowers.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JAN. 12. After three weeks, in which we had a cloudless sky and balmy air, the wind has hauled into the southeast, and a gentle rain has commenced falling.  Its having crept upon us so softly, is a symptom that it will continue with us some time. The first break of sunshine may be a week hence.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, JAN. 13.  We have no intelligence, as yet, from the seat of war.  The solicitude of the public to know the result is at the highest pitch. No one doubts that the issue has been very decisive.  A report reached us to-day that the town of los Angeles had been taken by our troops, and that a large portion of the Californians had laid down their arms. This rumor comes through the washerwomen of this place.  They get their intelligence from the Indians, who cross the streams in which they wash their clothes.  Singular as this sort of mail may seem, it very often conveys news, not only With wonderful dispatch, but with extraordinary accuracy.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The first capture of los Angeles, by Com. Stockton, was announced here by these washerwomen; they were also the first to spread the intelligence of the breaking out of the insurrection at the same place, and knew of the retreat of the Americans at San Pedro before any other class of people in Monterey.  So much for a wash-tub mail.  You may think lightly of it as of the soap.bubbles that break over its rim; but if you are wise you will heed its intelligence.  It is an old mail that has long been run in California; and has announced more revolutions, plots, and counterplots, than there are mummies in Memphis.  Who, in other lands, would dream of going to an old woman, washing her clothes in a mountain stream, for the first tidings of events in which the destinies of nations tremble? Mr. Morse need hardly come here with his magnetic machine.  One of these women would snap <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, JAN. 14.  The small party of Californians who recently took up arms on the bay of San Francisco, soon increased to two hundred.  They were, with few exceptions, men of the better stamp-men who had a permanent interest in the soil, and who had refused to join the rash spirits at the south. They had captured Mr. Bartlett, the chief magistrate of the jurisdiction, and several other Americans, whom they held as hostages.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Capt. Marston, with fifty men from the Savannah, and Capt. Maddox, with a company of mounted volunteers, and Capt. Weber, with another band of resolute spirits, met them.  A general and decisive engagement was anticipated; but after a few hours of pretty sharp fighting, the Californians withdrew from Santa Clara, which was entered by our forces.  A flag of truce was sent in, and the leading spirits on both sides assembled under the shadows of a great native oak.  The Californians stated that they had taken up arms, not to make war on the`American flag, but to protect themselves from the depredations of those who, under color of that flag, were plundering them of their cattle, horses, and grain; and that on assurance being given that these acts of lawless violence should cease, they were ready to return quietly to their homes.  These demands were not enforced in a spirit of menace, but with that moral <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>This is a much better mode of settling differences than through the arbitrament of the bayonet.  It is an easy thing to dislodge a man's argument by dislodging his life; but this summary process of getting rid of an opponent will generally be followed by something worse.  There is terror even in the ghost of a misdeed. FRIDAY, JAN. 15.  We have further intelligence from the seat of war.  General Kearny, with his staff and a guard of one hundred dragoons, arrived on the 6th ult. from New Mexico at San Pasqual, about thirty miles from San Diego.  Here he encountered a hundred and sixty Californians, under Andres Pico, well mounted, and armed with rifles and lances.  A sanguinary engagement ensued, marked by the most daring, determined conduct on both sides.  Captain Johnson, with twelve dragoons, led the charge, and was shot dead in the furious onset.  Captain Moore, with fifty dragoons, rushed to the front: the enemy wavered--retreated; when this gallant officer, with a few of his men who were better mounted than the the rest, rushed on in pursuit.  The enemy suddenly wheeled; and now it was hand to hand between the heavy sword and lance.  Captain Moore, on his white charger, was a mark which none could mistake.  Lance after lance was shivered by his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The Californians at last retreated, and Gen. Kearny encamped on the disputed field.  But what a night it must have been!  The camp fire threw its pale light on the countenances of nineteen, who sprung to their saddles at the break of day, but who were now locked in the still embrace of death.  The burial rites performed, and another sun in the heavens, the general was again on his way.  But another hill bristling with lances obstructs his march; it is stormed, carried, and here again the weary and the wounded require repose.  Through the energies of Lieut. Beale, who seems ever to be where the hardiest enterprise demands, a message is conveyed through the beleaguering lines of the enemy to the camp of Com. Stockton, and a detachment of seamen and marines, under Lieut. Gray, of the Congress, is sent out.  This fresh force obliged the Californians to relinquish their purpose of another engagement.  Had they not arrived, it was the intention of Gen. Kearny to cut his way to San Diego, be the odds against him what they might.  His gallant guard had shown the reliance which might be reposed in them, by the desperate valor which they had already evinced.  The conduct of Capt. Turner, of Lieut. Emory, and Capt. Gillespie might give a feature to any field where life is perilled and laurels won; while the muse of history would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:inscribe her glowing eulogy on the tombs of a Johnson, a Moore, and a Hammond.  They sleep in the soil of California, where the undying year <HI REND="blockindent">"Garlands with fragrant flowers their place of rest"<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JAN. 16.  The depredations complained of by those who took up arms in the neighborhood of San Francisco, were committed by some of the volunteers, previous to their joining Col. Fremont on his present campaign.  They are a class of persons who have drifted over the mountains into this country from the borders of some of our Western states.  It is a prime feature in their policy to keep in advance of law and order, and to migrate as often as these trench on their irresponsible privileges.  Their connection with our military Operations here is a calamity that can only find a relief in the exigencies of war.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Were their lawless proceedings directed against those who are active participators in this revolution, the evils which they inflict would have some palliation.  But the principal sufferers are men who have remained quietly on their farms, and Whom we are bound in honor, as well as sound policy, to protect. To permit such men to be plundered under the filched authority of our flag is a national reproach.  No temporary triumph can redeem the injuries inflicted, or obliterate their stain.  But the rash acts committed by one portion of the Californians, and the wrongs endured by another, are fast drawing to a close.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, JAN. 17.  As I was passing this morning one of the little huts sprinkled around the skirts of Monterey, my steps were arrested by the low moans which issued from its narrow door.  On entering, I found on a straw pallet a mother whom disease had wasted to a mere shadoW, but whose sufferings were now nearly over.  She did not notice my entrance, or any thing around; her eyes were lifted, fixed, and glassed in death.  A slight motion drew my attention to another corner of the hut, where I discovered, in the dim twilight of the place, a little boy lying on a mat, whom I supposed asleep; his young sister was near him, and trying to cross his hands on his breast She did not  pm to notice me, spake not a word, but went on with her baffled task, for the hand which she had adjusted would roll off while she was attempting to recover the other.  Now and then she stopped for a moment and kissed the lips which could return none, while her tears fell silently on the face of her dead brother.  In a few minutes two women entered, who, it seems, had gone out to call their clergyman to administer the last rites to the mother.  He was too late: her spirit had fled.  He spoke to her, called her by name--but there was no answer; he turned to the little boy, whispered Raphael, but all was silent and still.  Directing the women where to procure grave-clothes at the expense of the alcalde's office, I wended my way home.  How little heeds the great stream of life the silent rivulets of sorrow which mingle with its noisy tide!</P>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, JAN. 18.  It is deeply to be regretted that the military operations in California should prevent, at this time, an experimental proof of the fertility of her soil.  The rain that has already fallen is so abundant, that all the arable land will retain its moisture sufficiently to enable the crops to come to maturity. But this war has broken up every agricultural arrangement, and defeated every possibility of a generous harvest.  The calamity will be felt most severely by the emigrants.  They arriVe here with very slender means; and the idea of paying twenty dollars a barrel for flour covers them with dismay.  Instead of having reached a land of plenty, they hastily conclude that they are to suffer the miseries of destitution, and yield to a despondency deeper than that which shook the faith of the Israelites before their wants were miraculously supplied.  But there is no manna here, and no quails, except those which are secured by the hunter's skill.  The day of miracles is over, even in California.</P>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JAN. 19.  One of my boys caught a dove, a few days since, clipped his wing, and placed him in our yard, which has a high wall around it.  He looked very lonely at first, but his mate soon came, hovered around on the wall, and finally preferring captivity with him to freedom without, flew down to his side. How beautiful is that affection which never forsakes in adversity, but becomes deeper and stronger as the waves of affliction roll higher over the object of its sympathy and trust!</P>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, JAN. 20.  There is one feature in our military operations here which is far asunder from that system of order which appertains to a well-disciplined army.  Every one who can raise among the emigrants thirty or forty men, becomes a captain, and starts off to fight pretty much on his own hook.  Nor is he very scrupulous as to the mode in which he obtains his horses, saddles, and other equipments.  He takes them whereVer he can find them, and very often without leaving behind the slightest evidence by which the owner can recover the value of his property.  He plunders the Californian to procure the means of fighting him.  Public exigency is the plea which is made to cover all the culpable features in the transaction.  This may justify, perhaps, taking the property, but it never can Excuse the refusal or neglect to give receipts.  It is due to Coin. Stockton and Col. Fremont to say, that this has been done without their sanction.  Still, it reflects reproach on our cause, and is a source of vast irritation in the community.  No man who has any possible means of redress left will tamely submit to such outrages; and yet we expect the Californians to hug this chain of degradation, and help to rivet its links.  Let foreigners land on our own coast, and do among us v"hat Americans have done here, and every farmer, in the absence of a musket, would shoulder his pitchfork and flail.  Human nature is the same here as there, and a sense of wrong will burn as deeply in the one place as the other.  I utter, for one, my note of remonstrance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, JAN. 21.  The scarcity of provisions in Monterey continues.  Flour is twenty-five dollars the barrel, and there is hardly a barrel in the place at that.  We have in our garrison about a hundred and fifty men, and all are on a short allowance of bread.  There is wheat in the interior, but the mules which should be there to grind it have gone to the wars. Even that sorry animal seems here not wholly insensible to military glory.  The trump of fame finds an echo even in his long ears. FRIDAY, JAN. 22.  The flag on the fort informed us this afternoon of the approach of a ship within the rim of our bay.  As she neared, the signals on the Dale told her to be an American man-of-war.  We conjectured at once that she must he the Congress; but as she rounded into her berth we could not recognize, in her majestic form, the features of our old friend.  She proved to be the Independence, commanded by Capt. Lavellette, and bearing the broad pennant of Com. Shubrick.  She sailed from the U. States on the twenty-ninth of August, and arrived at Rio de Janeiro in fifty-three days; remained there ten days; doubled the Cape and reached Valparaiso in thirty-four days; stopped there seven, and reached here in thirty.eight.  This is splendid sailing; but the Independence is one of the fastest, as well as one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JAN. 23.  The Independence left the Columbus at Valparaiso, under the broad pennant of Com. Biddle, who has instructions to favor us here with a visit.  The Columbus was in want of supplies, and would be detained several days in procuring them.  She had better lay in all she will require, for there is nothing here.  Unless a transport arrives soon, there will not be salt provisions enough on the coast to enable our squadron to go to sea two weeks. There has not been a transport here for six months; our sailors have been living on fresh meat till they hanker for the salt more than they ever did for the fresh.  As for clothing, they can hardly muster a shirt a piece, and one pair of Shoes among half a dozen is becoming rather a rare sight.  This is a hard case, when our markets at home are glutted with these articles.  The sailor is required to be faithful to the government, and the government should be faithful to him.  He should not be left here barefooted to patter about like a duck in shallow water.  It is well for him that it is a California winter through which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, JAN. 24.  It is difficult to make the Californians understand why you will not attend to office duties on the Sabbath.  The apology that you want it as a day of recreation, would be appreciated; but the plea of its sanctity is with many wholly unintelligible.  If you would make a person respect the Sabbath, you must rear him in its sacred observance.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, JAN. 25.  The wash-tub mail is still further establishing its claims to confidence.  Its intelligence is no bubble breaking over its rim, and evaporating into thin air; but a chain of facts carrying with them the destinies of a nation.  All that has reached us through this singular mail is confirmed this morning by a California youth who has arrived from below.</P>
009.sgm:<P>He left los Angeles some fourteen days since, and states that previous to his departure, Com. Stockton had entered the town at the head of the American forces from San Diego.  He says there had been some pretty hard fighting, in which the Californians had suffered severely.  Col. Fremont, he states, was within two days' march of the Pueblo, and in a position to cut off the retreat of the Californians to the north.  He believes that most of them have surrendered.  This intelligence is, in every essential particular, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JAN.  26.  A Californian made me a present to-day of a wild goose which he had just killed.  I value the gift for the giver, rather than any benefit it may be to me.  I live mostly on mush; such a thing as a wild goose never floats within the shadows of my domestic dreams.  Even the drum of the partridge is rarely heard there.  Wild geese prevail here in the greatest abundance; every lagoon, lake, and river is filled with them.  They fly in squadrons, which, for the moment, shut out the sun; a chance shot will often bring two or three to the ground.  The boys will often lasso them in the air. This is done by fastening two lead balls, several yards from each other, to a long line, which is whirled into the air to a great height.  In its descent the balls fall on opposite sides of the neck of some luckless goose, and down he comes into the hands of the urchin hunter; sometimes a pair are brought down, but one generally manages to effect his escape.  The boy little heeds the domestic relation that may have subsisted between them; and yet there is something in killing the mate of even a goose that might be relieved in the thought that no other goose loved him. </P>
009.sgm:<illus entity="a009-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Wm. M. Gwin</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI. ARRIVAL OF THE LEXINGTON.--THE MARCH TO LOS ANGELES, AND BATTLE OF SAN GABRIEL.--THE CAPITULATION.--MILITARY CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CALIFORNIANS.--BARRICADES DOWN.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, JAN. 28.  Our harbor has been enlivened to-day by the arrival of the U. S. ship Lexington, commanded by Lieut. Theodorus Bailey, an officer that might well have been promoted years ago.  Capt. Tompkins and his company of one hundred and forty men, and field train of artillery, are on board.  She brings out also Capt. Halleck, U. S. Engineer, who is intrusted with the erection of fortifications at this place and San Francisco.  The Lexington is laden with heavy battery guns, mortars, shot, shells, muskets, pistols, swords, fixed ammunition, and several hundred barrels of powder.  She has also a quantity of shovels, spades, ploughs, pickaxes, saws, hammers, forges, and all the necessary utensils for building fortifications of the first class; and what is better still, she brings with her a saw-mill and a good grist-mill.</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, JAN.  29.  The U. S. ship Dale, W. W. McKean commander, sailed to-day for Panama. She takes the mail which is to cross the isthmus, and reach the United States by the West India steamers. As soon as her destination was known, a hundred pens <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MY INFANT BOY.  <HI REND="blockindent">I have not seen thy face, my child;<LB>They say each look and line,<LB>Which o'er thy father's aspect plays,<LB>Is miniatured in thine.<LB>They tell me that thy infant voice--<LB>Its wildly warbled tone,<LB>Seems to thy mother's listening ear<LB>The echo of my own.<LB>I Know it not, but fondly deem<LB>That such a thing may be,<LB>And trust thy father's better hopes<LB>May long survive in thee.<LB>I have not seen thy face, my child,<LB>Though weary moons have set<LB>Since mine and thy glad mother's eyes<LB>In tender transport met:--</HI>
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009.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">For ere thy being dawned to light,<LB>Or knew what life might mean,<LB>Our ship had earth's mid circuit swept,<LB>And oceans rolled between.<LB>I waft thee back a father's kiss-<LB>A pledge of that wild joy,<LB>Which o'er his yearning heart will rush,<LB>To clasp his infant boy.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JAN. 30.  The long.looked for intelligence has come at last in an authentic shape.  The American forces, commanded by Com. Stockton, aided by Gen. Kearny, broke camp at San Diego on the 29th ult., and took up the line of march for los Angeles.  Their route lay through a rugged country of one hundred and forty miles, drenched with the winter rains, and bristling with the lances of the enemy.  Through this the commodore led our seamen and marines, sharing himself with the general at his side, all the hardships of the common sailor.  The stern engagements with the enemy derive their heroic features from the contrast existing in the condition of the two.  The Californians were well mounted, are the most expert horsemen in the world, and whirled their flying.artillery to the most commanding positions.  Our troops were on foot, mired to the ankle, and with no resource except in their own indomitable resolution and courage.  Their exploits may be lost in the shadow of the clouds which roll up from the plains of Mexico, but they are realities here, which impress themselves with a force which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>"Com. Stockton, at the head of a force amounting to about Six hundred men, including a detachment of the 1st regiment of U.S. dragoons, under Gen. Kearny, left San Diego on the morning of the 29th of December, for los Angeles. Our line of march lay through a rough and mountainous country of nearly one hundred and fifty miles, with impediments on every Side, and constant apprehensions of an attack from the enemy: our progress was nevertheless rapid; and though performed mostly by sailor troops, would have done credit to the best disciplined army.</P>
009.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 5th of January, we found ourselves, after several days' hard marching and fatigue, in the vicinity of the river San Gabriel; on the north side of which the enemy had fortified themselves to the number of five hundred mounted men, with foc? pieces of artillery, under Gen. Flores, and in a position so commanding, that it seemed impossible to gain any point by which our troop could be protected from their galling fire.  They presented the, forces in three divisions--one on our right, another on our left, and third in front, with the artillery.  On reaching the south side of the river, the commodore dismounted, forded the stream, and commanded the troops to pass over, which they did promptly under the brisk fired the enemy's artillery.  He ordered the artillery not to unlimber till the opposite bank should be gained; as soon as this was effected, he ordered a charge directly in the teeth of the enemy's guns, which soon resulted in the possession of the commanding position they had just occupied. The first gun fired was aimed by the commodore before the charge was made up the hill; this overthrew the enemy's gun, which had just poured forth its thunder in our midst.  Having gained this important position, a brisk cannonading was kept up for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, JAN. 31.  It is Sweet in a land of tumult and Strife to see the Sabbath sun come up.  Its sacred light melts over the rough aspects of war like melting dew down the frontlet of the crouched lion.  May the spirit of devotion, in its ascending flight, bear into a serener element the aspirations of the human heart! There let faith, and hope, and immortal love build their tabernacle.  It shall be a dwelling for the soul when the palaces, temples, and towers of earth are in ruins.  Over its gem-inwoven roof shall stream the light of stars that never set; flowers that cannot die shall wreath its colonnade, and hang in fragrant festoons from its walls; while the voices of streamlets, as they flash over their golden sands, shall pour unceasing music on the wandering air.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, FEB. 1.  The forces under Col. Fremont were within a few leagues of the town of the Angels When Com. Stockton entered it.  Their approach cut off the retreat of the Californians to the north.  The forces of the commodore were on foot, and of course <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The articles of capitulation, in substance, were, that the Californians shall surrender their arms to Col. Fremont, return peaceably to their homes, and not resume hostilities during the continuance of the war with Mexico ;-that they shall be guarantied the protection of life and property, and equal rights and privileges with the citizens of the United States. These terms were duly subscribed by the commissioners appointed by the parties to the compact, and ratified by Col. Fremont.  They were liberal in their spirit, wise in their purpose, and just in their application.  More rigorous terms would have involved G sense of humiliation in one party, without any advantage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, FEB.  4.  The Californians who left Monterey to join the outbreak at the south are now returning to their homes.  Every day brings back two or three to their firesides.  They look like men who have been out on a hunt, and returned with very little game.  Still, it must be confessed that they have materially strengthened their claims to military skill and courage.  They have been defeated, it is true, but it has cost their victors many Sanguinary struggles, and many valuable lives.  They have raised themselves above that contemptuous estimation in which they were erroneously held by many, and secured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, FEB. 5.  The outbreak at the north has passed away, and the last wave of commotion perished with it.  This result is to be ascribed to the energy of Capt. Mervin, to the moderation and firmness of Capt. Marston and his associates, and to the good conduct of the forces under their command. Nor should it be forgotten that the Californians evinced, on this occasion, a disposition well suited to bring about an amicable treaty.  They took up arms, not to make war on the American flag, but in vindication of their rights as citizens of California, and in defence of their property.  They had been promised protection--they had been assured that they should not be molested, if they remained quietly at their homes--and these pledges had been glaringly violated. Their horses and cattle had been taken from them, under cover of public exigency, and no receipts given. to secure them indemnification, till at last they determined <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, FEB. 6.  We have another rain; not a cloud is to be seen; but the Whole atmosphere is filled with a thick mist, which dissolves in a soft perpetual shower.  It seems as if nature had relinquished every other occupation, and given herself up to this moist business.  She calls up no thunder, throws out no lightning; she only squeezes her great Sponge, and that as quietly as a mermaid smooths her dripping locks.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, FEB. 7.  Com. Shubrick has ordered the barricades removed.  Thank God! we are at last relieved of martial law.  It is one of the greatest calamities that can fall on a civilized nation.  It tramples <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, FEB. 8.  Much to the relief of the citizens, Com. Shubrick has given orders that the volunteers on service here shall be paid off and discharged. They are principally sea-beachers and mountain-combers, and some of them are very good men; but others seem to have no idea of the proprietorship of property.  They help themselves to it as canvas-back ducks the grass that grows in the Potomac, or migratory birds the berries which bloom in the forests through which they wander.  They hardly left fowls enough here on which to keep Christmas.  Could dismembered hens lay eggs, they would have more chickens in their stomachs than they ever had dollars in their pockets.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER  XII.  RETURN OF T.O. LARKIN.--THE TALL PARTNER IN THE CALIFORNIAN.--MEXICAN OFFICERS.--THE CYANE.--WAR MEMENTOES.--DRAMA OF ADAM AND EVE.--CARNIVAL.--BIRTH-DAY OF WASHINGTON.--A CALIFORNIA CAPTAIN.--APPLICATION FOR A DIVORCE.--ARRIVAL OF THE COLUMBUS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, FEB. 9.  The U.S. ship Cyane, S. F. Dupont commander, is just in from San Diego. She was dispatched to bring up General Kearny and suit, and our consul, T. O. Larkin, Esq.  The arrival of the Independence was not knoWn at San Diego when the Cyane sailed.  The return of Mr. Larkin was warmly greeted by our citizens.  Even the old Californians left their corridors to welcome him back. He was captured by those engaged in the outbreak some three months since, and has been closely guarded as a prisoner of war.  Still, in the irregularities of the campaign, and the easy fidelity of those who kept watch, he has had many opportunities of effecting his escape, but declined them all.  He was on the eve, at one time, of being taken to Mexico, and got ready for the long and wearisome journey; but some of his captors relented, and he was allowed to remain at the town of the Angels, when the success of the American arms relieved him.  He experienced during his captivity many acts of kindness.  Even the ladies, who in California are always on the side of those who suffer, sent him many gifts, which contributed essentially <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, FEB. 10.  My tall partner in the Californian is back at last from his three months' trip to San Francisco.  I excused his long absence, and cheerfully endured all the toil of getting out the paper, with only the assistance of a type-setting sailor, under the vague impression that he was hunting up a wife.  But he has come back as single as he came into the world.  Whether his solitude is a thing of choice or necessity I have not inquired.  A man's celibacy is a misfortune, with which it seems wicked to trifle. It is too selfish for pity and too serious for mirth. But let my partner go; he will get a wife in due time; indeed he has had one already; and that is about the number which nature provides.  Some, it is true, take a second, and a few totter on to a third, seemingly that they may have company when they totter into the grave.  Go down to your narrow house alone in the majesty of an unshaken faith, and trust to meet the partner of your youth in heaven.  She waits there to beckon you to the hills of light. Meet her not with a harem of spirits at your side, but singly, as on earth,</P>
009.sgm:<P>B <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>When first beneath the hawthorn's shade,<LB>The love she long had veiled from view,<LB>Her soft, uplifted eyes betrayed,<LB>As fell their broad, bright glance on you.<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, FEB. 11. Two of the officers of Gen. Castro sent through me to-day to Com. Shubrick, applications for permission to return to Mexico.  They arc very poor, having received no pay since our flag was raised.  There are many more in the same situation.  They are entitled to our sympathy.  They have tried, it is true, to retake the country; but they are not to blame for that: who would not have done the same, situated as they have been?  We may call their courage sheer rashness; but even that bus higher claims to respect than pusillanimity.  They fought for their places, it is true, but I do not see why there is not quite as much honor in a man's fighting for bread with which to feed his children, as for a feather with which to plume his ambition. Very few in these days fight from pure patriotism.  Some hope of profit or preferment lights their path and lures them on.  There has been, I apprehend, quite as much love of country in the Californian as the American, in the storm of battle which has swept over this land.</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, FEB. 12.  The Cyane sailed to-day for San Francisco, where she will be al]owed a short repose.  And truly she merits this indulgence; she has been, under her indefatigable commander, for Six months incessantly on duty, and has performed some exploits that will figure in history.  All our ships on this coast have been extremely active, and their crews more active still.  Wherever they have let go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, FEB. ,13.  The great scarcity of provisions here, and the difficulty experienced in subsisting our forces, has induced Com. Shubrick to issue a circular, throwing the ports open for six months to all necessary articles of food. This step is characterized by sound policy as well as humanity.  It will have the effect of lowering the exorbitant prices which we are now paying for these articles, and go far to secure the good will of the citizens.  Every measure which relieves the present exigency, will be fully appreciated.  The scarcity is the result, in some measure, of the war; in this we have a responsibility, and the least we can do is to relieve, so far as it lies in our power, the calamity which it has entailed.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, FEB.  14.  The bones Which bleach on the battle-field, and the groans which load the reluctant winds, are not the saddest memorials of war. They lie deeper; they are confined in decayed virtue, and in the convulsions of outraged humanity.  They convert the heart of a nation into a charnel-house, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:where the gloomy twilight only serves to betray the corruption which festers within.  Flowers may bloom over it, and garlands be woven of their fragrant leaves, but within is death.  We shudder at a recollection of the Deluge, and still gaze with wonder and fear at its ghastly memorials: that catastrophe, however, Swept the earth but once, and then departed; but war has for ages trampled over it in blood, followed by the shrieks of fatherless children, and the wail of ruined nations.  <HI REND="blockindent">Where'er the blood-stained monster trod<LB>Fell deep and wide the curse of God.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, FEB. 15.  We have had the drama of Adam and Eve as a phase in the amusements, which have been crowded into the last days of the carnival. It was got up by one of our most respectable citizens, who for the purpose converted his ample saloon into a mimic opera-house.  The actors were his own children, and those near akin.  They sustained their parts well except the one who impersonated Satan; he was of too mild and frank a nature to represent such a daring, subtle character.  It was as if the lark were to close his eyes to the touch of day, or the moon to invest herself with thunder.  But Eve was beautiful, and full of nature as an unweaned child.  She rose at once into full bloom, like the Aphrodite of Phidias from the sparkling wave. Every sound and sight struck on her wondering sense, as that of a being just waked to life.  Her untaught <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:motions melted into floWing lines, soft and graceful as those of a bird circling among flowers.  <HI REND="blockindent">"Her eyes as stars of twilight fair;<LB>Like twilight's too her dusky hair:<LB>But all things else about her drawn,<LB>From May-time and the cheerful dawn."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>The features of Adam betrayed his affinity to Eve. It was a brother's pride hovering over a sister's loveliness.  This imparted the highest moral charm to the association.  No unhallowed thought cast an ambiguous shadow on the purity of their bliss.  It was dashed by the evil one while yet untouched by sorrow.  When all was lost, Adam sustained himself ill his irreparable calamity with majestic resignation. In a moment of forgetfulness he cast the blame on his companion, but her silent tears instantly subdued him, and he clasped her to his heart.  There is no affection so deep as that which spring from sympathy in sorrow.  Tears fell here and there among the spectators, as the exiled pair left forever their own sweet Eden.  The birds became silent as if they had sung only for the ear of Eve; the flowers would not lift themselves from the light pressure of her departing footstep; and the streamlet trembled in its flow, as if afraid it might lose the image, which her disappearing form had cast upon its crystal mirror.</P>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, FEB. 16.  It is past midnight, and I have just come from the house of T. A. Larkin, Esq., <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:where I left the youth, the beauty, the wisdom, and worth of Monterey.  There are more happy hearts there than I have met with in any other assemblage Since I came to California.  This is the sunshine that has followed the war-cloud. This being the last night of the carnival, every one has broken his last egg-shells. But few of them contained cologne or lavender; nearly all were filled with golden tinsel. Ladies and gentlemen too are covered with the sparkling shower, and the lights of the chandeliers are thrown back in millions of mimic rays.  Two of the young ladies, remarkable for their sprightliness and beauty, broke their eggs on the head of our commodore, and got kissed by way of retaliation.  They blushed, but still enjoyed their triumph.  I did not venture the <HI REND="italics">lex talion&eacute;s</HI>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, FEB. 17.  A convict on our public works managed to escape to-day, carrying off his ball and chain. Well, if he only will stop stealing, he may run to earth's utmost verge.  I always like to see a fellow get out of trouble, and sometimes half forget <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, FEB. 19.  The volunteers, who accompanied Col. Fremont to the south, are beginning to return to.their homes on the Sacramento.  Several of them have stopped here on their way up, and report every thing tranquil below.  They murmur in deep undertones over their failure to reach the Pueblo before the forces under Com. Stockton, and ascribe their disappointment to a want of confidence in their courage and skill. I know not how this may be; but, certainly, many and most of them could have had but very little experience in California modes of warfare. They may have been as brave as C&aelig;sar, and their very daring have contributed to their defeat.  The secret of success here, where lances are used, lies in a commander's keeping his troops compact; but this is almost a moral impossibility where men are well mounted and as full of enthusiasm as a Cape Horn cloud of storms; without the severest discipline, they will dash ahead, and take consequences however fatal.  It was this error which cost Capt. Burrows and his brave companions their lives.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, FEB. 20.  We have had a fresh stir today, in the arrival of Lieut. Watson, of the navy, with dispatches for Com. Shubrick and Gen. Kearny, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Mr. Watson sailed from New York, November twelfth, in the brig Sylvan, landed at Chagres, and reached Panama on the twenty-seventh of the same month; was detained there waiting for a conveyance till December the twenty-fifth, when he took passage in an English steamer for Callao, fell in with the U. S. storeship Erie, at Payta, on January third, went on board of her, and arrived at San Francisco in thirty-nine days.  But for the detention in Panama, he would have reached here from New York in sixty-seven days.  But even this passage may be still further abridged by a line of steamers.  The day is not distant when a trip to California will be regarded rather as a diversion than a serious undertaking.  It will be quite worth the while to come out here merely to enjoy this climate for a few months.  It is unrivalled, perhaps, in the world.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, FEB. 21.  The American Tract Society has sent me out, by the Lexington, a large box of their publications. Nothing could be more timely. I have not seen a tract circulating in California.  Emigrants are arriving, settling here and there, without bringing even their Bibles with them.  The same is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, FEB. 22.  This is the birth-day of Washington.  The Independence and Lexington are brilliantly dressed; the flags of all nations stream over them in a gorgeous arch.  A salute of twenty.eight guns from the Independence has expressed the homage of each state to the occasion.  Even here, and among the native population, Washington is known, and his virtues are revered.  People speak of him as a being exempted from the weaknesses of our nature--as one commissioned of Heaven for a great and glorious purpose, and endowed with the amazing powers requisite for its accomplishment.  It is the character of Washington that will never die.  His achievements will long survive on the page of history, but his character is embalmed in the human heart. It is not a man's deeds that of themselves render him immortal.  There must be some high consecrating motive.  He who reared the most gigantic of the pyramids has perished.  He sought an eternal remembrance in his monument, and not in any virtues which it was to perpetuate.  The monument remains, but where is its builder?  <HI REND="blockindent">"Gone, glimmering through the twilight of the past."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, FEB. 23.  We are eagerly looking for the arrival of store-ships from the United States. Our squadron is without provisions, except fresh grub from the shore.  Our ships, as far as sea-service is concerned, are of about as much use as so many nautical pictures. They look stately and brave, as they ride at anchor in our bay; but let them go to sea, and they would carry famine with them.  It is a strange policy that keeps a squadron on this coast in such a disabled condition. One would suppose the Department had concluded men could live at sea on moonshine.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, FEB. 24.  A Californian woman complained to me, several months since, of very ill-treatment from her husband.  He was thoroughly indolent, cross, and abusive.  She had him and the children to feed and clothe, while he did nothing but lounge about, find fault, and abuse her.  She asked for a divorce; but I told her she must be satisfied, for the present, with a separation.  So I called him before me, and ordered him to gather up his traps, and leave the house for six months.  He grumbled a little, but obeyed the order.</P>
009.sgm:<P>To-day, the woman returned, and said she would try to live with her husband again; that he often now walked past the house, and looked very lonely and dejected; that she felt sorry for him, and, if I was willing, she would try him again.  I told her, with all my heart; that this was good Christian conduct in her, and much better than a divorce.  She seemed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, FEB. 25.  A courier arrived to-day from Los Angeles.  Every thing continues quiet there. The Californians had entirely dispersed, and retired to their ranchos, with the exception of those few who had gone upon a forlorn hope to sonora.  They will never be able to raise a force there sufficient to make any impression here.  Mexico has enough to do in her own borders, without an attempt to retake California.</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, FEB. 26.  A captain of artillery in the Californian army, said to me a few days since, that his military career was now over, that he had a numerous family to maintain, and he thought of engaging in making adobes, if I would sell him a small patch of ground for that purpose, belonging to the municipality; but stated that he had no money, and was not a little puzzled to know how he was to pay for it, unless I would suggest some method by which he could work it out with his boys and team.  I told him I was drawing stone for a prison; that he could engage in this, and should be allowed the highest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, FEB. 27.  The weather continues bright and beautiful.  The air is soft, the sky clear, the trees are in bud, and the fields are medallioned with flowers. A bouquet of these floral offerings was sent me to-day by a California lady, with a little note in liquid Castilian, that I would accept them as emblems of those hopes, which were timidly expanding into life for California.  Long may those hopes remain, and long the gentle being who has sent these tokens live to walk in their light.  She is one, over whom adversity has swept; but she breaks from its gloomy veil, bright as a star from the shadow of the departed cloud.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, FEB. 28.  It is Lent; and the family that live the next door to mine, are at their evening prayers.  They were merry as a marriage-bell during carnival, and now they are in sackcloth and ashes. Religion has a wide vibration to reach these extremes of mirth and melancholy.  But life itself is made up of vicissitudes ; wealth disappears in poverty; smiles dissolve in tears; and the light of our mortal being goes out in the night of the grave.  But there is a higher life that is never overcast-a spirit.home, where sorrow and change come not.  Thither let the weary lift the eye of faith, and forget the cares which environ their pilgrimage here.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, FEB. 29.  Our harbor has been thrown into some commotion again by another of the great leviathans of the deep.  The U. S. ship of the line Columbus, commanded by Capt. Wyman, and bearing the broad pennant of Com. Biddle, entered our bay in stately majesty this morning.  She came in before a light breeze, under a vast cloud of canvas, and rounded to in splendid style, near the Independence.  She is the largest ship that has ever been on this coast.  Ladies and gentlemen watched from hill-top and balcony her approach.  She is last from Callao; her crew have recovered from the effects of the East India climate, and her officers are all in excellent spirits.  They preferred, of course, a more immediate return home, but evinced no want of alacrity in obeying the mandate that has brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, MARCH 3.  The U. S. ship Warren, under Commander Hull, is in from San Francisco.  She is now in the fourth year of her cruise, and has hardly copper enough on her to make a warming-pan. Some say she will tumble to pieces if an attempt is made to get her around Cape Horn.  But she has weathered many stormy headlands, and would undoubtedly weather that.  Still, she may be detained here as a harbor.ship; but wiser heads than mine will determine that question.  Her crew ought to be permitted to return; it is cruel to keep men out as they have been.  The sailor's lot is hard enough, indeed, when every suitable effort is made to relieve it. There are but few drops of real happiness in his cup of sorrow.  He has his pastimes, it is true, but they partake more of insanity than sober gladness.  He is cradled in adversity, reared in neglect, and dies in the midst of his days; and over his floating bier the ocean thunders its dirge.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, MARCH 4.  The convict that escaped a short time since was overtaken by my constable ninety miles distant, and brought back to-day.  He looked like one whose last desperate hope had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.  THE PEOPLE OF MONTEREY.--THE GUITAR AND RUNAWAY WIFE.--MOTHER ORDERED TO FLOG HER  SON.--WORK OF THE PRISONERS.--CATCHING SAILORS.--COURT OF ADMIRALTY.--GAMBLERS CAUGHT AND FINED.--LIFTING LAND BOUNDARIES.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, MARCH  6. I have never been in a community that rivals Monterey in its Spirit of hospitality and generous regard.  Such is the welcome to the privileges of the private hearth, that a public hotel has never been able to maintain itself.  You are not expected to wait for a particular invitation, but to come without the slightest ceremony, make yourself entirely at home, and tarry as long as it suits your inclination, be it for a day or for a month. You create no flutter in the family, awaken no apologies, and are greeted every morning with the same bright smile.  It is not a smile which flits over the countenance, and passes away like a flake of moon-light over a marble tablet.  It is the steady sunshine of the soul within.<HSEP>If a stranger, you are not expected to bring a formal letter of introduction.  No one here thinks any the better of a man who carries the credentials of his character and standing in his pocket. A word or an allusion to recognized persons or places is sufficient. If you turn out to be different from what your first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, MARCH 16.  Met Com. Biddle and Gen. Kearny to-day by appointment, and gave them a history of California affairs from the time the flag was raised.  Both expressed a little surprise at some of the events that had occurred, but neither called in question the wisdom of the policy which had been pursued.  The report of a disposition on the part of these distinguished officers to cast reproach on events in California, are without a shadow of foundation. Com. Biddle has not come, it is true, to prosecute the measures of his predecessors, nor has he come to repudiate them.  He desires, so far as his instructions will permit, to let them remain as he found them, and leave to time, that moral touchstone of wisdom and folly, the tests of their expediency.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, MARCH 17.  I met a Californian today with a guitar, from which he was reeling off a merry Strain, and asked him how it was possible he could be so light-hearted while the flag of his Country was passing to the hands of the stranger.  Oh, said the Californian. give us the guitar and a fandango, and the devil take the flag.  This reveals a fact deeper than what meets the eye.  The Californians as a community never had any profound reverence for their nominal flag.  They have regarded  it only as an evidence of their colonial relation to MeXico; a relation for which they have felt neither affection nor pride.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, MARCH 18.  A poor fellow came to me to-day, and complained that his wife had run away with another man, and wanted I should advise him what to do.  I asked him if he desired her to come back; he said he did, for he had five children who required her care.  I told him he must then keep still: the harder he chased a deer, the faster it would run; that if he kept quiet she would soon circle back again to him.</P>
009.sgm:<P>He hardly seemed to understand the philosophy of inaction: I told him there was hardly an animal in the world that might not be won by doing nothing; that the hare ran from us simply because we had chased it; that a woman ran for the same reason, though generally with a different motive: the one ran to escape, the other to be overtaken.  He consented to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, MARCH 25.  A California mother complained to me to-day, that her son, a full grown youth, had struck her.  Usage here allows a mother to chastise her son as long as he remains unmarried and lives at home, whatever may be his age, and regards a blow inflicted on a parent as a high offence. I sent for the culprit; laid his crime before him, for which he seemed to care but little; and ordered him to take off his jacket, which was done.  Then putting a riata into the hands of his mother, whom nature had endowed with strong arms, directed her to flog him.  Every cut of the riata made the fellow jump from the floor.  Twelve lashes were enough; the mother did her duty, and as I had done mine, the parties were dismissed.  No further complaint from that quarter.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, APRIL 12.  The old prison being too confined and frail for the safe custody of convicts, I have given orders for the erection of a new one. The work is to be done by the prisoners themselves; they render the building necessary, and it is but right they should put it up.  Every bird builds its own nest.  The old one will hold an uninventive Indian, but a veteran from Sidney or Sing Sing would work his way out like a badger from his hole, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, APRIL 16.  Six of the crew of the Columbus ran from one of her boats this morning. They cleared the town in a few minutes, and plunged into a forest which shadows a mountain gorge.  The officer of the boat came with a request from Capt. Wyman that I would have them caught and brought back. My constables were both absent, and I ordered three Californians who were well mounted to go in pursuit.  The native people are always inclined to aid a sailor in his attempt to escape; they seem to think he is of Course running from oppression or wrong, when in nine cases out of ten he is running upon some sudden impulse, and continues the race because he has begun it.</P>
009.sgm:<P>In this instance an order was given and it was obeyed; the Sailors were promptly apprehended and brought back.  But had I offered a reward of fifty dollars each for them, and left the Californians  to pursue or not as they preferred, not one of them would have been apprehended.  I have never known a Californian to molest a runaway sailor or soldier to secure the reward offered.  He will obey my order to arrest him, and he would do the same if ordered to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, APRIL 18. The Pacific squadron having captured several prizes not in a condition to be sent round the cape for adjudication in the United States, the necessity of a court of admiralty here to determine upon them, has induced Coin. Biddle and Gen. Kearny to take the responsibility of its organization. They have installed me in this new office, invested with the authority which emanates through them from the national executive, and the still higher sanctions derived <HI REND="italics">ex necessitate rei</HI>
009.sgm:.  And now comes the task of looking up those legal authorities which may serve as guiding lights and safe precedents.  But even here, on this dim confine of civilization, loom to light all the bright particular stars which have shed their rays on the intricacies of national law and admiralty jurisprudence.  We have the eloquent commentaries of Kent, the able dissertations of Wheaton, the lucid expositions of Chitty, and the authoritative decisions of Sir William Scott.  These, with half a dozen young lawyers ready to throw in their own effulgent beam, as the glow.worm turns the sparkle in its tail to the sun, will enable us perhaps to escape <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, MAY 12. A nest of gamblers arrived in town yesterday, and last evening opened a monte at the hotel honored with the name of the Astor House.  I took a file of soldiers, and under cover of night reached the hotel unsuspected, where I stationed them at the two doors which afforded the only egresses from the building.  In a moment I was on the stairs which lead to the apartment where the gamesters were congregated.  I heard a whistle, and then footsteps flying into every part of the edifice.  On entering the great chamber, not a being was visible save one Sonoranian reclining against a large table, and composedly smoking his cigarito.  I passed the compliments of the evening with him, and desired the honor of an introduction to his companions.</P>
009.sgm:<P>At this moment a feigned snore broke on my ear from a bed in the corner of the apartment.--" Ha! Dutre, is that you?  Come, tumble up, and aid me in stirring out the rest."  He pointed under the bed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:where I discovered, just within the drop of the valance a multitude of feet and legs radiating as from a common centre.  "Hallo there, friends-turn out!" and out came some half-dozen or more, covered with dust and feathers, and odorous as  the nameless furniture left behind.  Their plight and discovery threw them `into a laugh at each other.  From this apartment, accompanied by my secretary, I proceeded to others, where I found the slopers stowed away in every imaginable position-some In the beds, some under them, several in closets, two in a hogs-head, and one up a chimney.  Mr. R----, from Missouri--known here under the soubriquet of "the prairie-wolf"--I found between two bed-ticks, with his coat and boots on, and half smothered with the feathers.  He was the ringleader, and raises a monte table wherever he goes as regularly as a whale comes to the surface to blow.  All shouted as he tumbled out from his ticks.  Among the rest I found the alcalde of San Francisco, a gentleman of education and refinement, who never plays himself, but who, on this occasion, had come to witness the excitement. I gathered them all, some fifty in number, into the large saloon, and told them the only speech I had to make was in the shape of a fine of twenty dollars each.  The more astute began to demur on the plea of not guilty, as no cards and no money had been discovered; and as for the beds, a man had as good a right to sleep under one as in it.  I told them that was a matter of taste, misfortune often made strange <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, MAY 27.  A ranchero, living some forty miles distant, not liking his own land, had lifted his boundary line, and projected it some  Six miles over that of his neighbor.  Quite a lap this would be among farmers in the United States, but a small slice here.  I was called upon  to decide the difficulty. Taking with me from the public archives a certified copy of the original grant to each of the rancheros, I proceeded to the spot, where I found some twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.  A CONVICT WHO WOULD NOT WORK.--LAWYERS AT MONTEREY.--WHO CONQUERED CALIFORNIA.--RIDE TO A RANCHO.--LEOPALDO.--PARTY OF CALIFORNIANS.--A DASH INTO THE FORESTS.--CHASING A DEER.--KILLING A BEAR.--LADIES WITH FIREARMS.--A MOTHER AND VOLUNTEER.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, JUNE 18.  One of the prisoners, who is an Englishman, ventured a criticism on the stonework of another prisoner, which revealed the fact of his being a stonecutter himself.  I immediately Sat him at work at his old trade.  But he feigned utter ignorance of it, and spoiled several blocks in making his feint good.  I then ordered him into a deep well, where the water had given out, to drill and blast rocks.  He drove his drills here for several days, and finding that the well was to be sunk some twenty or thirty feet deeper, concluded it was better for him to work in the upper air, and requested that he might be permitted to try his chisel again.  Permission was given, and he is now shaping stones fit to be laid in the walls of a cathedral.  He was taken up for disorderly conduct, and he is now at work on a schoolhouse, where the principles of good order are the first things to be taught.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JUNE 19.  We have at this time three young lawyers in Monterey, as full of legal acuteness <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JULY 17.  Com. Stockton has left us on his return home over the continent.  His measures in California have been bold and vigorous, and have been followed by decisive results.  He found the country in anarchy and confusion, and the greater part under the Mexican flag, and has left it in peace and quietness beneath the stars and stripes.  His position in the march of the American forces from San Diego, and in the battle of San Gabriel, has not been changed by any subsequent information in the judgment of the candid and impartial.  He tendered the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>It is deeply to be regretted that any thing subsequently occurred to disturb this spirit of mutual deference and generous devotion to the crisis which pressed upon our arms.  It is not my purpose to comment on this feature in the affairs of California; but it is due to truth that history should be set right; that facts warped from their true position should be reinstated on their own pedestals.  The army has covered itself with laurels on the plains of Mexico, and might have won honors here with an adequate force; but to rely on Sixty dragoons in the face of a thousand Californians, armed with the rifle and lance, and accustomed to the saddle from their birth, is to trifle with the stern solemnities of war.  It is requiring too much of us, who have lived here through the war, and are conversant with its history, to claim our assent to the allegation, that California has been conquered through the achievements of the army.  <HI REND="italics">That</HI>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, AUG. 10.  An Indian galloped to my door this morning, having in lead a splendid pied horse, richly caparisoned, and with an invitation from a ranchero, forty miles distant, that I would come and spend a few days with him at his country.seat; so I placed the office in the hands of Don Davido, well competent to its duties, and with my secretary, Mr. G----, mounted on another noble animal, started for the mansion of my old friend from the mountains of Spain, now in the winter of age, but with a heart warm as a sunbeam.  The town, with its white dwellings, soon vanished behind the pine and evergreen oak, which crown the hills, that throw around it their arms of waving shade.  The little lakes, naveIled in the breaks of the forest, flashed on the eye; the water-fowl, in clouds, took wing;  the quail whirled into the bushes; and the deer bounded off to their woodland retreats.  A grizzly bear, with a storm <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>We were now on the bank of the Salinas, through which we dashed, alloWing our horses a taste of its yellow waters, then up the opposite bank, and away over the broad plain, which stretches in vernal beauty beyond.  Our horses required no spur, were in fine condition, high spirits, never broke their gallop, and swept ahead, like a fawn to its covert.  Mine belonged to the daughter of the Don, to whose hearth we were bound, and had often rattled about among these hills beneath his fair owner, whose equestrian graces and achievements might throw a fresh enchantment on the chase that had gathered to its rivalries the beauty and bravery of Old England. Another mountain stream--a dash through its foaming tide, and away again through a broad ravine, which bent its ample track to the Steep hills, which threw the shadows of their waving trees over a thousand echoing Caverns.  Where the forests broke, the wild oats waved, like golden lakes, and mirrored the passing cloud; while the swaying pines rolled out their music on the wind, like the dirge of ocean. And now another luxuriant plain, where cattle, and horses, and sheep gambolled and grazed by thousands; and on the opposite side the white mansion of our host, crowning the headland, and glimmering through the waving shade, like the columns which consecrate Colonna. Here we alighted without weariness to ourselves or our spirited animals, though we had swept <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>It was a festive eve at the Don's; youth and beauty were there; and as the sable hues of night sunk on silent tree and tower, the harp and guitar woke into melodious action; the hour was late when the waltz and song resigned their votaries to the calmer claims of slumber.  My apartment betrayed the rural diversions of some fairy, one whose floral trophies threw their fragrance from every variety of vase. The air was loaded with perfume, and could hardly be relieved by the visits of the night.wind through the lifted window.  My dreams ran on tulips and roses.  Morn blazed again in the east; the soaring lark sung from its cloud; the guests were up, glad voices were heard in the hall; light forms glanced through the corridors, and a <HI REND="italics">buenos dios</HI>
009.sgm: rolled in sweet accents from lips circled with smiles.  Coffee and tortillas went round, mingled with salutations and those first fresh thoughts which spring from the heart like early birds from the tree, which the sunlight has touched, while the dew yet sparkles on its leaves. The horses of the Don were now driven to the door-a sprightly band--vieing in their hues with the flowers that sprinkled the meadows where they gambolled, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The ladies were now tost into their saddles, and the gentlemen, belted and spurred, vaulted into theirs. We all struck at Once into a hand gallop, and swept over the broad plain which stretches from the acropolis of the Don, to the broken line of a mountain range.  Here we spurred into a broad shadowy ravine, overhung with toppling crags, and breaking through the bold ranges of rock, which threw their steep faces in wild fantastic forms on the eye.  "A coyote!" shouted those in the van, and started in chase; but this prairie-wolf had his den near at hand, and soon vanished from sight.  Another, and a third, but the chasm yielded its instant refuge.  A fourth was started, who gave us a longer pursuit; but he soon doubled from sight around a bold bluff into a jungle.  Here the horse of se&ntilde;orita S__ dashed ahead of the whole caballada, with his dilated eye fastened on a noble buck, and swept up the sloping side of the ravine to gain the ridge, and cut off his escape in that direction, while the whole troop spurred hot and fast upon his retreat below.  We were now in for a chase, brief though it might be.  The buck seemed confused; and no wonder, with such a shouting bevy at his heels, and with the se&ntilde;orita streaming along the ridge, and dashing over chasm and cliff like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:the storm-swept cloud where "leaps the live thunder." But the proud buck was not be captured in this way; and as Soon as the other side of the ravine began to slope from its Steep line, up its bank be sprung, and bounded along its ridge as if in exulting rivalry at the rattling chase of the se&ntilde;orita.  "Two <HI REND="italics">deers</HI>
009.sgm:<P>We here wheeled into another mountain gorge, which opened into a long irregular vista of savage wildness.  A gallop of two Or three miles brought us to a spot where the rocky barriers retreated on either hand, shaping out a bowl, in the centre of which stood a cluster of oaks.  On the lower limb of one, which threw its giant arm boldly from the rough trunk, a dark object was descried, half lost in the leaves.  "A bear, a bear!" shouted our leader, and dashed up to the tree, which was instantly surrounded by the whole troop, "Give us pistols," exclaimed the se&ntilde;oritas, as bravely in for the sport as the rest. Click, crack! and a storm of balls went through the tree.top.  Down came old bruin with one bound into the midst, full of wrath and revenge.  The horses instinctively wheeled into a circle, and as bruin sprung for a death-grapple, the lasso of our baccaros, thrown with unerring aim, brought him up all standing.  He now turned upon the horse of his new assailant; but that sagacious animal evaded each plunge, and seemed to play in transport about his antagonist.  The pistols were out again, and a fresh volley fell thick as hail <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>This was sport enough for one day; we galloped on through the defile, which wound round a mountain spur, till  it struck a precipitous stream, which sent into the green nooks the wild echoes of its cascades.  Following the ravine through which it poured its more tranquil tide, we debouched at length upon the plain, crowned with the hospitable mansion of our host.  The feats of the morning astonished even the old Don, who offered his favorite roan to the one whose bullet had killed the bear.  The meed was challenged by each and all, but no one could make good and exclusive claim. The gentlemen relinquished their claim, but that only made the matter worse, as it narrowed the contest to the circle of the Se&ntilde;oritas. Dinner was announced; then came the siesta, followed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, SEPT. 6.  A mother, who lives with a man out of wedlock, applied to me this morning to take her two daughters from an aunt, with whom they were living, and place them in another family. When asked for her reasons, she stated that this aunt had not a good reputation, and though bad herself she did not want to see her daughters so.  I told her she could hardly expect me to make her daughters better than their mother; that parental example was stronger than law; that if she wanted to keep her daughters pure, she must be so herself.  She Shed tears: I said no more; but ordered her daughters into the family where she desired.</P>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPT. 7.  One of the volunteers broke into my coral last night, with the intention of reaching the hen-roost, but was frightened nearly to death by a discharge of mustard-seed from an old fowling-piece, with which my servant had armed himself for the protection of his poultry.  Some of the volunteers, and I hope much the larger portion, are upright, honest men, but there are others who will steal any thing and every thing, from a horse to a hen. One of the evils of a soldier's lot is, that the good are often <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPT. 10.  Our bay is full of sardines; an Indian jumped into the surf and scooped up for me, with his blanket, half a peck in a few minutes. The pelican follows these small fish, and pounces down upon them with a savage ferocity.  There is something in such a sudden destruction of life, even in a minnow, which you don't like.  I have often wished the bird just shot again on the wing.</P>
009.sgm:<P>We are looking every moment for the return of the Cyane, under Commander Du Pont, from the Sandwich Islands, where she has been on important service.  She is the water-witch of the Pacific--if ceaseless motion can claim that honor.  Her commander enjoys so thoroughly the confidence and affection of his officers and crew, they go with him through all this exhausting service without a murmur.  It is a happy tact that can maintain discipline and wield at any moment the whole moral and physical power of such a ship.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.  A CALIFORNIA PIC-NIC.--SEVENTY AND SEVENTEEN IN THE DANCE.--CHILDREN IN THE GROVE.--A CALIFORNIA BEAR-HUNT.--THE BEAR AND BULL BATED.--THE RUSSIAN'S CABBAGE HEAD.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 22.  The lovers of rural pastimes were on an early stir this morning with their pic-nic preparations.  Basket after basket, freighted with ham, poultry, game, pies, and all kinds of pastry, took their course in the direction of a wood which stands three miles from town, and shades a sloping cove in the strand of the sea.  The sky was without a cloud, and the brooding fog bad lifted its dusky Wings from the face of the bright waters.  At every door the impatient steed, gayly caparisoned, was waiting his rider.  Into the saddle youth and age vaulted together, while the araba rolled forward with its living freight of laughing childhood.  The dogs swept on before, barking in chorus, and flaring the gay ribbon which some happy child had fastened round the neck.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mingled tide of health and social gladness flowed on to the grove of pine and birch, which threw their branching arms in a verdant canopy over a plat of green grass, which had been shorn close to the level earth.  Around this arena strayed every variety of twig-inwoven seat, where matron and maiden, in <illus entity="a009-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A California party on a Pic-nic excursion.</P>
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009.sgm:the flow of the heart, forgot their disparity of years. The children wreathed each other's locks with coronals of flowers, the soft breeze whispered in the pines, and the little billow murmured its music on the strand. And now the violin, the harp, and guitar Woke the bounding dance.  Forth upon the green the man of seventy, still erect and tall, led the blooming girl of sixteen.  Age had whitened his locks, but the light of an unclouded spirit still rolled in his eye, and the salient bound of youth still dwelt in his limbs.  His young partner, with her tresses of raven darkness, inwoven with snow-white flowers,-with a cheek, where the mantling tide of health was curbed into a blush--and a step light and elastic as that of the gazelle, seemed as one of Flora's train, just lighted there to swim in youth and beauty in the wild Woodland merriment.  By the side of these, others, in mingled youth and age, lead down the double files, and balance and whirl in the mazy measures which roll from the orchestral band.  As these retire, others still Spring to the arena, and the dance goes on, ever changing, and still the same.  No faltering step delays its feathered feet, no glance of envy disturbs its love-lit smiles, no look of clouded care overshadows its real mirth:  <HI REND="blockindent">"The garlands, the rose-odors, and the flowers,<LB>The sparkling eyes, and flashing ornaments,<LB>The white arms and the raven hair, the braids<LB>And bracelets, swan-like bosoms, the thin robes<LB>Floating like light clouds 'twixt our gaze and heaven." <LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>And now they glide to the tables, which stretch away under the embowering trees, and where the rich larder has emptied its choicest stores.  There the savory venison scents the Still air, and the wild strawberries blush between the green leaves.  There the domestic fowl, the swift-footed hare, and the timid quail have met in strange brotherhood.  There the juice of the native grape, and the cool wave of the gushing rock, sparkle in the flowing goblet.  These were discussed, and the festive board was relinquished to the children, who were too full of glee to note if aught more than the fruit and confectionery remained. The ripe berry sought in vain to add color to their lips, or rival the bloom which lent its rosy hue to the round cheek. Golden locks floated around eyes which sparkled with light and love, and the accents of gladness rung out in joyous peals, like the song of birds when the storm-cloud has passed.  <HI REND="blockindent">"Theirs was the shout! the song! the burst of joy!<LB>Which sweet from childhood's rosy lip resoundeth;<LB>Theirs was the eager spirit naught could cloy,<LB>And the glad heart from which all grief rebounded"<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>The music from the harp and guitar streamed out again, and the green plat was full of glancing forms, where youth and age, maternal dignity and maiden charms, led down the merry dance.  As these glided to their seats, childhood crowned with wild-flowers sprung to the arena, with motions light as the measures through which it whirled its infantile forms.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCT. 10.  Captain Hull, who has been out here nearly four years in command of the Warren, left us to-day for the United States.  He has rendered good service to the country during his long exile.  May prosperous breezes waft him safely to his distant home.  Lieut. J. B. Lanman succeeds to the command of the Warren; an officer justly esteemed for his gentlemanly deportment and professional intelligence.  It is this foreign duty that puts the competency and fidelity of an officer to the test.  It is easy to carry on duty at a navy yard, but duty on board ship with a heterogeneous crew, 15 another thing; it calls for the last resources of the officer, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>For a person who has been but a few months in a man-of-war, and never been at sea in any other situation, to attempt to enlighten the public on the discipline of the navy, or any of the duties which belong on board ship, is an exhibition of impertinent vanity. He has no practical knowledge of the subjeCts upon which he is delivering his sage lecture.  He has a certain theory with which he proposes to test the wisdom or folly, the humanity or cruelty, of every thing in the service; and when this theory gets snagged, which is often the case, he is for rooting out the whole concern.  He don't reflect that his land theory is as much out of its element at sea as a stranded porpoise would be out of his.  All the habits and usages of a man-of-war, are heaven wide of those which obtain on land.  They require rules and regulations suited to their genius.  Reforms must necessarily be of slow growth; they must take Toot in the service itself and not in the novelties of any land theory.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCT. 28.  The king of all field.sports in California is the bear-hunt:  I determined to witness one, and for this purpose joined a company of native gentlemen bound out on this wild amusement.  All were well mounted, armed with rifles and pistols, and provided with lassoes.  A ride of fifteen miles among the mountain crags, which frown in stern wildness <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>At about twelve o'clock of the night our watch came into camp and informed us that a bear had just entered the copse.  In an instant each sprung to his f.s, and into the saddle.  It was a still, cloudless night, and the moonlight lay in sheets on rivulet, rock, and plain.  We proceeded with a cautious, noiseless step, through the moist grass of the pasture to the copse in its centre, where each one took his station, forming a cordon around the little grove. The horse was the first to discover, through the glimmering shade, the stealthful movements of his antagonist.  His ears were thrown forward, his nostrils distended, his breathing became heavy and oppressed, and his large eye was fixed immovably on the dim form of the savage animal. Each rider now uncoiled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>As soon as bruin felt the lasso, he growled his defiant thunder, and sprung in rage at the horse. Here came in the sagacity of that noble animal. He knew, as well as his rider, that the safety of both depended on his keeping the lasso taught, and without the admonitions of rein or spur, bounded this way and that, to the front or rear, to accomplish his object, never once taking his eye from the ferocious foe, and ever in an attitude to foil his assaults.  The bear, in desperation, seized the lasso in his griping paws, and hand over hand drew it into his teeth: a moment more and he would have been within leaping distance of his victim; but the horse sprung at the instant, and, with a sudden whirl, tripped the bear and extricated the lasso.  At this crowning feat the horse fairly danced with delight.  A shout went up which seemed to shake the wild-wood with its echoes. The bear plunged again, when the lasso slipped from its loggerhead, and bruin was instantly leaping over the field to reach his jungle.  The horse, without spur or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>This accomplished, the company retired again to the shanty, but in spirits too high and noisy for sleep. Day glimmered, and four of the baccaros started off for a wild bull, which they lassoed out of a roving herd, and in a few hours brought into camp, as full of fury as the bear.  Bruin was now cautiously unwound, and stood front to front with his horned antagonist.  We retreated on our horses to the rim of a large circle, leaving the arena to the two monarchs of the forest and field.  Conjectures went wildly round on the issue, and the excitement became momently more intense.  They stood motionless, as if lost in wonder and indignant astonishment at this strange encounter.  Neither turned from the other his blazing eyes; while menace and defiance began to lower <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, NOV. 2.  Byron says, a hog in a high wind is a poetical object.  Had he lived here, he might have put a mischievous boy on the top of that grotesque animal, and it would have helped out the poetical image immensely.  The boys here begin their equestrianism on the back of a hog or bullock, and end it on the saddle, to which they seem to grow, like a muscle to a rock.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, NOV. 3.  A Russian, who carries on a farm at Santa Cruz, called at my office a few days since, and presented me with a cabbage.head.  I was sure from this garden gift, the old Cossack had something in tow yet out of sight; but it soon came in the shape of a request that I would summon a debtor of his, and order payment. The creditor of the Russian proved to be a young Frenchman, who had run away with the old man's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Col. Burton, with his command, is in Lower California, where he has maintained the flag against desperate odds.  His officers and men have acquitted themselves with honor.  The powder and ball of the enemy were smuggled in by an American--a wretch who ought to be shot himself</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, NOV. 8  After being six months without rain, the first shower of the season fell this evening. Its approach had been announced for several days by a dim atmosphere, which was filled with a soft, thick vapor, that swung about, like a limitless cloud. The rain itself was warm, and sunk into the earth, like flattery into the heart of a fool.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.  A CALIFORNIAN JEALOUS OF HIS WIFE.--HOSPITALITY OF THE NATIVES.--HONORS TO GUADALUPE.--APPLICATION FROM A LOTHARIO FOR A DIVORCE.--CAPTURE OF MAZATLAN.--LARCENY OF CANTON SHAWLS.--AN EMIGRANT'S WIFE CLAIMING TO Have TAKEN THE COUNTRY.--A WILD BULLOCK IN MAIN-STREET.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, NOV. 20.  I was tumbled out of my dreams last night by a successIOn of rapid and heavy knocks at my office door.  Unbarring it, I found Giuseppe, a townsman, who stated, under an excitement that almost choked his voice, that he had just returned from the Salinas; that on entering his house he had discovered, through the window in the door leading to his bedroom, by the clear light of the moon, which shone into the apartment, a man reposing on his pillow by the Side of his faithless spouse, and desired me to come and arrest him.  I had understood that the sposa had not the reputation of the "icicle that hung on Dian's temple," and had no great confidence in Giuseppe's domestic virtues either; but that was no valid reason why he should be so unceremoniously ousted of his domestic claims. I therefore ordered the constable, whom this midnight noise had now awoke, to go with him and bring the culprit before me.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Off they started, well armed with batons and revolvers.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:On reaching the premises the house was carefully reconnoitred, and every egress from the building securely bolted.  They were now inside, arid bad conducted their operations so silently they were unsuspected.  The door leading to the bedroom was at the other end of the hall; they crept over the floor with steps so low and soft, each heard his heart beat, and the clock seemed to strike instead of ticking its seconds.  Giuseppe's thoughts ran-- <HI REND="blockindent">"I'll see before I doubt; when I doubt, prove;<LB>And, on the proof there is no more but this."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>Through the panes of glass which relieved the panels of the door, they saw in the faint moonlight, which fell through the opposite window, the dark locks of the guilty intruder flowing over the husband's pillow.  "I have a mind," whispered Giuseppe, "to rush in and plunge my knife at once to his cursed heart." "No, no;" returned my faithful constable, "we are here to execute the orders of the alcalde, and if you are going to take the law into your own hands I will leave you.  Hush! hark! he stirs!  No; it was the shadow of the tree that frecks the moonlight."  All was still and waveless again.  The door was on the jar, and drawing one good long relieving breath, in they rushed, and seized----what?  A muff!  The husband could not believe his own eyes, and mussed the muff up, jerking it this way and that, as if to ascertain if there was not a man inside of it.  "You return late, Giuseppe," murmured his wife, scarce yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, DEC. 7.  There are no people that I have ever been among who enjoy life so thoroughly as the Californians.  Their habits are simple; their wants few; nature rolls almost every thing spontaneously into their lap.  Their cattle, horses, and sheep roam at large--not a blade of grass is cut, and none is required.  The harvest waves wherever the plough and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>There is hardly a shanty among them which does not contain more true contentment, more genuine gladness of the heart, than you will meet with in the most princely palace.  Their hospitality knows no bounds; they are always glad to see you, come when you may; take a pleasure in entertaining you while you remain; and only regret that your business calls you away.  If you are sick, there is nothing which sympathy and care can devise or perform which is not done for you.  No sister ever hung over the throbbing brain or fluttering pulse of a brother with more tenderness and fidelity.  This is as true of the lady whose hand has only figured her embroidery or swept her guitar, as of the cottage-girl wringing from her laundry the foam of the mountain stream; and all this from the heart!  If I must be cast in sickness or destitution on the care of the stranger, let it be in California; but let it be before American avarice has hardened the heart and made a god of gold.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, DEC. 13.  A Californian, who had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:absent some two years in Mexico, where he had led a gay irregular life, finding or fancying on his return grounds for suspecting the regularity of his wife, applied to me for a decree of divorce, <HI REND="italics">a vinculo matrimonii</HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, DEC. 21.  The old church bell has been ringing out all the morning in honor of Guadalupe, the patron saint of California.  Her festivities commenced last evening in illuminated windows, bonfires, the flight of rockets, and the loud mirth of children.  I wonder if Guadalupe knows or cares much about these exhibitions of devotional glee. Can the shout of boyhood around the crackling bonfire reach to her celestial pavillion? can the flambeau <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:throw its tremulous ray so far? will she bend her ear from the golden lyres of heaven to catch the sound of a torpedo vibrating up over the cloud-cataracts which thunder between?  If Guadalupe be in heaven, where I hope she is, she has done with the crackers and bonfires of earth, and heeds them as little as the glow-worm that glimmers on her grave. But let the old bell peal on; it matters but little whether it be for this saint or that; it is only a metallic hosanna to either.  There is more true homage in one silent prayer, breathed from the depths of a meek confiding heart, than in all the peals ever rung from cathedral towers.  The only worship which approaches that of a resigned heart is the hymn of the forest, as its leaves in the fading twilight softly tremble to rest.  He who can listen unmoved to these vesper melodies, can have no sensibility in his soul, and no God in his creed. When this fevered being shall sink to rest, let me be laid beneath some green tree, whose vernal leaves shall whisper their music over my sleep.  And yet it would be lonely were there none beloved in life to linger there in death.  <HI REND="blockindent">When the bright sun upon that spot is shining<LB>With purest ray,<LB>And the small shrubs their buds and blossoms twining,<LB>Burst through that clay,<LB>Will there be one still on that spot refining<LB>Lost hopes away?<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, DEC. 22.  We are now carrying the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, JAN. 7.  The captain of a merchant ship complained to me this morning, that one of his crew had taken a package of rich Canton shawls on shore, and clandestinely disposed of them.  I had the sailor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JAN. 8.  An assistant alcalde, residing at San Juan, in reporting a case that came before him, states that one of the witnesses, not having a good reputation for veracity, he thought it best to swear him pretty strongly; so he swore him on the Bible, on the cross, by the holy angels, by the blessed Virgin, and on the twelve Evangelists.  I have written him for some information about eight of his evangelists, as I have no recollection of having met with but four in my biblical readings.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, JAN. 10.  A woman, from our western <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JAN. 18.  Main-street was thrown into confusion this morning by a wild bullock, who had broken the lasso of his keeper.  He plunged down the peopled avenue in foaming fury, clothed with all the terrors of the Apocalyptic beast: men, women, and children fled in every direction.  I was standing at the moment in the portico of our Navy Agent, and before I could clear it, he swept through a corner, dashing to the earth a huge stanchion. His next rencounter was with the high paling which protected a shade-tree, and which he carried off as Samson the gates of Gaza.  Something attracted his flashing eyes to the door of a small dwelling; in an instant it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.  RAINS IN CALIFORNIA.--FUNCTIONS OF TEE ALCALDE OF MONTEREY.--ORPHANS IN CALIFORNIA.--SLIP OF THE GALLOWS ROPE.--MAKING A FATHER WHIP HIS BOY.--A CONVICT AS PRISON COOK.--THE KANACKA.--THOM. COLE.--A MAN ROBBING HIMSELF.--A BLACKSMITH OUTWITTED.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, FEB. 7. The rains in California are mostly confined to the three winter months--a few Showers may come before, or a few occur after, but the body of the rain falls within that period.  The rain is relieved of nearly all the chilling discomforts of a winter's storm in other climes; it falls only when the wind is from a southern quarter, and is consequently warm and refreshing.  It is by no means continuous; it pays its visits like a judicious lover--with intervals sufficient to keep up the affection; and like the suitor, brings with it flowers, and leads the fair one by the side of streamlets never wrinkled with frost, and into groves where the leaf never withers, and where the songs of birds ever fill the warbling air.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, FEB. 10. By the laws and usages of the country, the judicial functions of the Alcalde of Monterey extend to all cases, civil and criminal, arising within the middle department of California.  He is also the guardian of the public peace, and is charged with the maintenance of law and order, whenever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, FEB. 17.  There is no need of an Orphan Asylum in California.  The amiable and benevolent spirit of the people hovers like a shield over the helpless.  The question is not, who shall be burdened with the care of an orphan, but who shall have the privilege of rearing it.  Nor do numbers or circumstances seem to shake this spirit; it is triumphant over both.  A plain, industrious.man, of rather limited means, applied to me to-day for the care of six orphan children.  I asked him how many he had of his own; he said fourteen as yet. "Well, my friend," I observed, "are not fourteen enough for one table, and especially with the prospect of more ?" "Ah," said the Californian, "the hen that has twenty chickens scratches no harder than the hen that has one."  So I told him I would inquire into the present condition of the children, and then decide on his application. His claim lay in the fact that his wife was the godmother of the orphans.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, FEB. 23.  One of my Indian prisoners, sentenced to the works for theft, managed this morning to effect his escape, but was overtaken by the constable on the Salinas, and brought back.  When asked by me what he ran for, he said the devil put it into his head.  I asked him if he thought a ball and chain would keep the evil one off; he said it might, but then if he once got at him, he Should stand no chance with one of his legs chained.  I told him I should let his leg go for the present, but if he attempted to run again, I should chain both of them. "And my hands too," said the Indian, to assure me of his good conduct.</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, MARCH 3.  There is an old Mexican law, or usage, here, which has sometimes exempted from death the murderer who has reached the sanctuary of the church, or been favored with some accident, in the execution of the extreme sentence.  Two desperadoes, of Mexican and Indian blood, were brought before me, charged with a wilful, deliberate murder. A jury of twelve citizens, the largest scope of challenge having been allowed, was empanneled.  The prisoners were convicted and sentenced to be hung. But by some strange accident, or design, both knots slipped, and down they came, half imagining themselves still swinging in the air.  The priest who confessed them, and who was present among the great crowd, immediately declared the penalty paid and the criminals absolved, and started post-haste to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:Gen. Mason for his mandate to that effect.  The general told him the prisoners were Sentenced to be hung by the neck till dead, and when this sentence had been executed, the knot.slipping business might perhaps be considered.  This may seem to have been dictated by a want of humanity, but had the accident or stratagem in question rescued the criminals, not a noose in California would have held. The murderers were executed, and the crime for which they suffered vanished from the future records of the court. WEDNESDAY, MARCH 15.  A lad of fourteen years was brought before me to-day charged with stealing a horse.  The evidence of the larceny was conclusive; but what punishment to inflict was the question.  We have no house of correction, and to sentence him to the ball and chain on the public works, among hardened culprits, was to cut off all hope of amendment, and inflict an indelible stigma on the youth; so I sent for his father, who had no good reputation himself, and placing a riata in his hand, directed him to inflict twenty-four lashes on his thieving boy.  He proceeded as far as twelve, when I stopped him; they were enough.  They seemed inflicted by one attempting to atone in this form for his own transgressions.  "Inflict the rest, Soto, on your own evil example; if you had been upright yourself you might expect truth and honesty in your boy; you are more responsible than this lad for his crimes; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, MARCH 18.  Horse-stealing has given me more trouble than any other species of offence in California.  It has grown out of a loose habit of using the horses of other people without their consent, at a time when they were of very little account; and what was once a venial trespass has become a crime.  It is very difficult to arrest it; much must be left to time, the  higher influences of moral sentiments, and the administration of more specific laws.  Nor are the Americans here a whit better than the natives; they have a facility of conscience which easily suits itself to any prevailing vice. Many of them appear to have left their good principles on the other side of Cape Horn, or over the Rocky Mountains.  They slide into gambling, drinking, and cheating, as easily as a frog into its native pond.  They seem only the worse for the restraints, which law at home partially exerted.  They are like a froward urchin who retaliates the wholesome visits of the birch by some act of fresh audacity the moment he is beyond its reach.  But they will find a little law even in California, and this little enforced with some steadiness of purpose.  It is not the law which threatens loudest that always exerts the great. est restraint.  Thunder, with all its uproar, don't strike; it is the lightning that cleaves the gnarled oak.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, MARCH 23.  A clergyman, who had just arrived in California, called on me to-day, with letters of introduction from several of the first rectors in New York.  They spoke of him in high terms of commendation, and invited that confidence and regard which might secure him success in his foreign adventure; while they knew him to be a loquacious shallow booby.  They had probably been so much annoyed by him in one shape and another, that they had taken this method of getting rid of him, thinking that the afflictions of Providence, like his blessings, should be more equally distributed.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, MARCH 25.  To-day I remitted the sentence of my prison cook.  He is a Mulatto, a native of San Domingo; had drifted into California; was attached, in a subordinate Capacity, to Col. Fremont's battalion; and while the troops were quartered in town, had robbed the drawer of a liquor shop of two hundred dollars.  For this offence, I had sentenced him to two years on the public works. Discovering early some reliable traits about the fellow, I began to confide in him, soon made him cook to the rest of the prisoners, and allowed him the privileges of the town, so far as his duties in that capacity required.  He has never betrayed my trust, and has always been the first to communicate to me any stratagem on the part of the prisoners to effect their escape.  I have trusted him with money to purchase provisions, and he has faithfully accounted for every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, APRIL 6.  I met a little California boy to-day in tattered garments, and without hat or shoes. He had a small fish in his hand, which he had just hooked up from the end of the wharf.  I offered him half a dollar for it; he said no, he wanted it himself. I offered him a dollar; he still said no, he was going to make a dinner on it.  The result would probably have been the same had I offered him five dollars.  No one here is going to catch fish for you or any one else while he wants them himself.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, APRIL 15.  I made another pounce this evening on the gamblers, and captured their bank; but most of the players had slipped their money into their pockets before I could reach the table.  No one rescued a dollar after my cane, with its alcalde insignia, had been laid on the boards.  The authority of that baton they always respect. How comfortable it is for one to carry his moral power on the top of his cane.  It almost justifies the Roman Catholic exegesis--and Jacob worshipped the top of his staff. </P>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, APRIL 17.  I had sent one of my constables to the Salinas river, and the other to San Juan, and retired to rest; but about midnight Gas Startled from my dreams, by a loud rap at my office door.  Throwing my cloak around me, I unbolted the portal, and there Stood, in the clear moonlight, a tall Kanacka, who reverently lifted his hat, and observed, "The town, Sir, is perfectly quiet."  I thanked him for the information, and closed the door.  The fellow had been drinking, and in the importance which liquor sometimes imparts, had imagined himself at the head of the police.</P>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, APRIL 27.  Thorn. Cole, whose moral vision could never yet discover any difference between possession and ownership, where a horse was concerned, was brought before me this morning, mounted on a fleet steed belonging to a citizen of the town.  He had removed the brand of the rightful owner and substituted his own; but the disguise was easily penetrated, and the horse identified.  Thom. averred the horse was found on his rancho; but he was ordered to deliver him to his proper owner, who stood by to receive him. At this moment Thom. sprung into his saddle and was off horse and all, in the twinkling of an eye.  I applied to Gen. Mason for a file of soldiers; they were promptly ordered, and stationed on the three streets, through one of which Thom. must make his egress from town.  He soon came sweeping on at the top of his speed, when he suddenly found three muskets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, MAY 2.  I was roused from my sleep last night by a loud, hurried knocking at my door, and a voice exclaiming, "Alcalde, alcalde!"  On reaching the door I found there a young Mexican, the clerk of a store near by, without hat or shoes, and only a blanket wrapped around him.  He told me the volunteers had broken into his store, and were robbing the money-chest.  By this time my constable was up, and, throwing on our clothes, we hastened with the clerk to his store; but not a human being was to be seen. He showed us the bolt that had been forced, the chest that had been broken, the pistol that he had snapped, and the wound that he had received on the head.  I sent the constable to the captain of the volunteers, who immediately searched his quarters, where he found every man in his berth, except those on guard.  With these unsatisfactory results I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, MAY 3.  This morning I examined into all the circumstances connected with the robbery.  The wound of the clerk, which he Says he received from a cudgel, is a slight cut, apparently made by some sharp instrument.  The chisel, with which the chest was forced, corresponds in width to one for sale on the shelf.  Of the thousand dollars locked up in the chest arid drawers, not one, it seems, escaped; not a quarter or fip fell to the floor; all went into the sack of the robbers, though they worked in the dark. And then, as he alleges, the robbers were volunteers without their uniform, and with their faces blacked. If so thoroughly disguised, how could he know they were volunteers?  From these circumstances I have no doubt the rogue robbed himself and raised the hue and cry to cover the transaction.  But we shall see; the thing will out yet. SUNDAY, MAY 9.  This is my birth-day.  I am on the shaded side of that hill which swells midway between the extremities of life.  The past seems but a dream, and the future will soon be so.  To what has been and to what may be, I seem to myself almost indifferent.  I know the vanities in which human hopes end; I know that life itself is only a bubble that has caught the hues of some falling star.  And yet this airy phantom is not all such as it would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, MAY 10.  I had directed the constable to get a pair of iron hinges made for one of the doors of the prison.  He gave the order to a blacksmith, a crabbed old fellow, who charged eight dollars for his coarse work.  As the charge was an imposition, I told the constable not to take the hinges; when up came the blacksmith with them to the office, and, in a fit of passion, hurled them at my feet, as I stood in the piazza.  I handed the constable eight dollars, and told him to call on the blacksmith, pay him for the hinges, take his receipt, and then bring him before me.  All which was done, and before me stood the smith, with his choler yet up.  I told him that his violence and indignity would not be passed over; that I should fine him ten dollars for the benefit of the town, which he might pay or go to prison. After a few moments' hesitation, he laid the ten dollars on the table, and took his departure without uttering a word.  When clear of the office he grumbled out to the constable, "For once in my life I have been outwitted; that Yankee alcalde has not only got my hinges for nothing, but two dollars besides.  I don't wonder he can swing his prison doors at that rate; I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, MAY 17.  The ire of a Californian of hidalgo extraction flashes from his dark eyes like heat-lightning on a July cloud--you see the blaze, but hear no thunder; while the wit of a California lady glances here and there like the sun-rays through the fluttering leaves of a wind-stirred forest.  We have several ladies here celebrated for their brilliant sallies, but Donna Jimeno carries off the palm.  A friend showed her this morning a picture of the Israelites gathering manna.  "Ah they are the Californians," said the Donna, "they pick up what heaven rains down."  He showed her Moses smiting the rock.  "And there," said the Donna, "is a Yankee; he can bring water out of a rock."  But humor and wit are not the highest characteristics of this lady. She possesses a refinement and intelligence that might grace any court in Europe; and withal, a benevolence that never wearies in reaching and relieving the sick.  Her care of Lieut. Miner, one of the officers attached to this post, will long live in grateful remembrance.  She hovered over him till his spirit fled, and wept as she thought of his mother.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.  FIRST DISCOVERY OF GOLD.--PRISON GUARD.--INCREDULITY ABOUT THE GOLD.--SANTIAGO GETTING MARRIED.--ANOTHER LUMP OF GOLD.--EFFECTS OF THE GOLD FEVER.--THE COURT OF AN ALCALDE.--MOSQUITOES AS CONSTABLES.--BOB AND HIS BAG OF GOLD.--RETURN OF CITIZENS FROM THE MINES.--A MAN WITH THE GOLD CHOLIC.--THE MINES ON INDIVIDUAL CREDIT.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, MAY 29.  Our town was startled out of its quiet dreams to-day, by the announcement that gold had been discovered on the American Fork. The men wondered and talked, and the women too; but neither believed.  The sibyls were less skeptical; they said the moon had, for several nights, appeared not more than a cable's length from the earth; that a white raven had been seen playing with an infant; and that an owl had rung the church bells.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JUNE 3.  The most faithful and reliable guard that I have ever had over the prisoners, is himself a prisoner.  He had been a lieutenant in the Mexican army, and was sentenced, for a flagrant breach of the peace, to the public works for the term of one year.  Being hard up for funds, I determined to make an experiment with this lieutenant; had him brought before me; ordered the ball and chain to be taken from his leg, and placed a double-barrelled gun, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, JUNE 5.  Another report reached us this morning from the American Fork.  The rumor ran, that several workmen, while excavating for a millrace, had thrown up little shining scales of a yellow ore, that proved to be gold; that an old Sonoranian, who had spent his life in gold mines, pronounced it the genuine thing.  Still the public incredulity remained, save here and there a glimmer of faith, like the flash of a fire-fly at night.  One good old lady, however, declared that she had been dreaming of gold every night for several weeks, and that it had so frustrated her simple household economy, that she had relieved her conscience, by confessing to her priest-- <HI REND="blockindent">"Absolve me, father, of that sinful dream."<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JUNE 6.  Being troubled with the golden dream almost as much as the good lady, I determined to put an end to the suspense, and dispatched a messenger this morning to the American Fork.  He will have to ride, going and returning, some four hundred miles, but his report will be reliable.  We shall then know whether this gold is a fact or a fiction--a tangible reality on the earth, or a fanciful treasure at the base of some rainbow, retreating over hill and waterfall, to lure pursuit and disappoint hope.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JUNE 10.  My boy Santiago has taken it into his head to get married; and being a Protestant, finds it extremely difficult to get through the ecclesiastical hopper.  Were the person whom he wishes to wed of the same faith with himself, there would be but little impediment; but as she is a Roman Catholic, it is necessary that he should become one too.  He has been to the presiding priest to see if he could not get his permission to retain a few articles of his own religion, just enough to save his conscience. But his reverence told him he must give it up in toto, renounce it as a heresy, and come without a scruple into the mother church.  Iago is not much of a theologian, but has sense enough to know that conscientious scruples are not things of which a man can free himself at will.  His love, none the less deep and sincere for his humble condition, urges him to a compliance with the canonical requirement, but these very scruples hold him back.  How he will extricate <illus entity="a009-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>One of the "upper ten" in the diggings, and a California savan--""My charge for examination is exactly one pound of gold.  Science is extremely rare in these parts, and I have the only spy-glass."</P>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, JUNE 12.  A straggler came in to-day from the American Fork, bringing a piece of yellow ore weighing an ounce.  The young dashed the dirt from their eyes, and the old from their spectacles. One brought a spyglass, another an iron ladle; some wanted to melt it, others to hammer it, and a few were satisfied with smelling it.  All were full of tests; and many, who could not be gratified in making their experiments, declared it a humbug.  One lady sent me a huge gold ring, in the hope of reaching <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, JUNE 15.  Found an Indian to-day perfectly sober, who is generally drunk, and questioned him of the cause of his sobriety.  He stated that he wished to marry an Indian girl, and she would not have him unless he would keep sober a month; that this was but his third day, and he should never be able to stand it unless I would put him beyond the reach of liquor.  So I sentenced him to the public works for a month; this will pay off old scores, and help him to a wife, who may perhaps keep him sober, though I fear there is little hope of that.</P>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JUNE 20.  My messenger sent to the mines, has returned with specimens of the gold; he dismounted in a sea of upturned faces.  As he drew forth the yellow lumps from his pockets, and passed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JULY 15.  The gold fever has reached every servant in Monterey; none are  to be trusted in their engagement beyond a week, and as for compulsion, it is like attempting to drive fish into a net with the ocean before them.  Gen. Mason, Lieut.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JULY 18.  Another bag of gold from the mines, and another spasm in the community.  It was brought down by a sailor from Yuba river, and contains a hundred and thirty-six ounces.  It is the most beautiful gold that has appeared in the market; it looks like the yellow scales of the dolphin, passing through his rainbow hues at death.  My carpenters, at work on the school-house, on seeing it, threw down their saws and planes, shouldered their picks, and are off for the Yuba.  Three seamen ran from the Warren, forfeiting their four years' pay; and a whole platoon of soldiers from the fort left only their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JULY 22.  The laws by which an alcalde here is governed, in the administration of justice, are the Mexican code as compiled in Frebrero and Alverez--works of remarkable comprehensiveness, clearness, and facility of application.  They embody all the leading principles of the civil law, derived from the institutes of Justinian.  The common law of England is hardly known here, though its rules and maxims have more or less influenced local legislation.  But with all these legal provisions a vast many questions arise which have to be determined <HI REND="italics">ex cathedra</HI>
009.sgm:.  In minor matters the alcalde is often himself the law; and the records of his court might reveal some very exquisite specimens of judicial prerogative; such as shaving a rogue's head-- <HI REND="italics">les talionis</HI>
009.sgm: --who had shaved the tail of his neighbor's horse; or making a busybody, who had slandered a worthy citizen, promenade the streets with a gag in his mouth; or obliging a man who had recklessly caused a premature birth, to compensate the bereaved father for the loss of that happiness which he might have derived from his embryo hope, had it budded into life.  This last has rather too many contingencies about it; but the principle, which reaches it and meets the offender, does very well out here in California, and would not be misapplied in some of those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, JULY  27.  I never knew mosquitoes turned to any good account save in California; and here it seems they are sometimes ministers of justice. A rogue had stolen a bag of gold from a digger in the mines, and hid it.  Neither threats nor persuasions could induce him to reveal the place of its concealment.  He was at last sentenced to a hundred lashes, and then informed that he would be let off with thirty, provided he would tell what he had done with the gold; but he refused.  The thirty lashes were inflicted, but he was still stubborn as a mule.</P>
009.sgm:<P>He was then stripped naked and tied to a tree. The mosquitoes with their long bills went at him, and in less than three hours he was covered with blood.  Writhing and trembling from head to foot with exquisite torture, he exclaimed, "Untie me, untie me, and I will tell where it is."  "Tell first," was the reply.  So he told where it might be found. Some of the party then, with wisps, kept off the still hungry mosquitoes, while others went where the culprit had directed, and recovered the bag of gold.  He was then untied, washed with cold water, and helped to his clothes, while he muttered, as if talking to himself, "I couldn't stand that anyhow."</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, JULY 28.  A little laughing girl tripped into the office to-day, and handed me a bunch of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:flowers, which she said her mother sent me.  "And who is your mother, my sweet one?" I inquired.  She told me, and I then remembered that I had recovered for her a silver cup, which an Indian had stolen; and these flowers had now come as a memento.  <HI REND="blockindent">"Fee me with flowers, they hold no sordid bribe."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, AUG. 12. My man Bob, who is of Irish extraction, and who had been in the mines about two months, returned to Monterey four weeks since, bringing with him over two thousand dollars, Its the proceeds of his labor.  Bob, while in my employ, required me to pay him every Saturday night, in gold, which he-put into a little leather bag and sewed into the lining of his coat, after taking out just twelve and a half cents, his weekly allowance for tobacco.  But now he took rooms and began to branch out; he had the best horses, the richest viands, and the choicest wines in the place.  He never drank himself but it filled him with delight to brim the sparkling goblet for others.  I met Bob to-day, and asked him how he got on.  "Oh, very well," he replied, "but I am off again for the mines."  "How is that, Bob? you brought down with you over two thousand dollars; I hope you have not spent all that: you used to be very saving; twelve and a half cents a week for tobacco, and the rest you sewed into the lining of your coat." "Oh, yes," replied Bob, "and I have got <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, AUG. 16.  Four citizens of Monterey are just in from the gold mines on Feather River, where they worked in company with three others. They employed about thirty wild Indians, who are attached to the rancho owned by one of the party. They worked precisely seven weeks and three days, and have divided seventy-six thousand eight hundred and forty-four dollars,--nearly eleven thousand dollars to each. Make a dot there, and let me introduce a man, well known to me, who has worked on the Yuba river sixty-four days, and brought back, as the result of his individual labor, five thousand three hundred and fifty-six dollars.  Make a dot there, and let me introduce another townsman, who has worked on the North Fork fifty.seven days, and brought back four thousand five hundred and thirty-four dollars.  Make a dot there, and let me introduce a boy, fourteen years of age, who has worked on the Mokelumne fifty-four days, and brought back three thousand four hundred and sixty-seven dollars. Make another dot there, and let me introduce a woman, of Sonoranian birth, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, AUG. 28.  The gold mines have upset all social and domestic arrangements in Monterey; the master has become his own servant, and the servant his own lord.  The millionaire is obliged to groom his own horse, and roll his wheelbarrow; and the hidalgo--in whose veins flows the blood of all the Cortes--to clean his own boots! Here is lady L----, who has lived here seventeen years, the pride and ornament of the place, with a broomstick in her jewelled hand!  And here is lady B----with her daughter--all the way from "old Virginia," where they graced society with their varied accomplishments--now floating between the parlor and kitchen, and as much at home in the one as the other!  And here is lady S----, whose cattle are on a thousand hills, lifting, like Rachel of old, her bucket of water from the deep well!  And here is lady M. L----, whose honeymoon is still full of soft seraphic light, unhouseling a potatoe, and hunting the hen that laid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPT. 9.  I met a Scotchman this morning bent half double, and evidently in pain.  On inquiring the cause, he informed me that he had just seen a lump of gold from the Mokelumne as big as his double fist, and it had given him the cholic.  The diagnosis of the complaint struck me as a new feature in human maladies, and one for which it would be difficult to find a suitable medicament in the therapeutics known to the profession; especially in the allopathic practice, which has stood still for three thousand years, except in the discovery of quinine for ague, and sulphur for itch.  The gentlemen of this embalmed school must wake up; their antediluvian owl may do on an Egyptian obelisk, but we must have a more wide.awake bird  in these days of progress.  Here is a man bent double with a new and strange disease, taken from looking at gold: your bleeding, blistering, and purging won't free him of it. What is to be done? shall he be left to die, or be delivered over to the homceopathics?  They have a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:medicament that acts as a specific, on the principle that the hair of the dog is good for the bite.  If you burn your hand, what do you do--clasp a piece of ice ?--no, seize a warm poker; if you freeze your foot, do you put it to the fire ?--no, dash it into the snow; and so if you take the gold-cholic, the remedy is, <HI REND="italics">aurum--similiu similibus curantur</HI>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPT. 16.  The gold mines are producing one good result; every creditor who has gone there is paying his debts.  Claims not deemed worth a farthing are now cashed on presentation at nature's great bank.  This has rendered the credit of every man here good for almost any amount. Orders for merchandise are  honored which Six months ago would have been thrown into the fire. There is none so poor, who has two stout arms and a pickaxe left, but he can empty any store in Monterey.  Nor has the first instance yet occurred, in which the creditor has suffered.  All distinctions indicative of means have vanished; the only capital required is muscle and an honest purpose.  I met a man to-day from the mines in patched buckskins, rough as a badger from his hole, who had fifteen thousand dollars in yellow dust, swung at his back. Talk to him of brooches, gold.headed canes, and Carpenter's coats!  Why he can unpack a lump of gold that would throw all Chesnut-street into spasms. And there is more where this came from.  <HI REND="italics">His</HI>
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009.sgm:prospects of getting it out vastly better.  With these advantages, he bends the knee to no man, but strides along in his buckskins, a lord of earth by a higher prescriptive privilege than what emanates from the partiality of kings.  His patent is medallioned with rivers which roll over golden sands, and embossed with mountains which have lifted for ages their golden coronets to heaven.  Clear out of the way with your crests, and crowns, and pedigree trees, and let this democrat pass.  Every drop of blood in his veins tells that it flows from a great heart, which God has made and which man shall never enslave. Such are the genuine sons of California; such may they live and die.  <HI REND="blockindent">"They will not be the tyrant's slaves,<LB>While heaven has light, or earth has graves."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<illus entity="a009-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>G. W. Wright</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.  TOUR TO THE GOLD-MINES.--LOSS OF HORSES.--FIRST NIGHT IN THE WOODS.--ARRIVAL AT SAN JUAN.--UNDER WAY.--CAMPING OUT.--BARK OF THE WOLVES.--WATCH-FIRES.--SAN JOS&Eacute;.--A FRESH START.--CAMPING ON THE SLOPE OF A HILL.--WILD FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY.--VALLEY OF THE SAN JOAQUIN.--HAND OF WILD HORSES.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 20.  A servant of  James McKinley, Esq., led to my door this morning a beautiful saddle-horse, with a message from his master, desiring me to accept the animal as a token of his regard.  The gift was most opportune, as I was on the eve of a trip to the gold.mines.  To guard against contingencies I purchased another, and, to prevent their being stolen, placed them both in the government coral, where a watch is posted night and day. My companions on the trip were to be Capt. Marcy, son of the late secretary of war, Mr. Botts, naval storekeeper, and Mr. Wilkinson, son of our ex-minister to Russia.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Having procured a suitable wagon, we freighted it lightly with provisions, articles of Indian traffic, tools for working in the mines, cooking utensils, and blankets to sleep in.  To this we attached four mules, but little used to the harness, and of no great power, but they were the best that could he got at the time. The whole was put under the charge of a man who was half sailor and half teamster, and not much of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, SEPT. 21. The hour for starting having arrived, I sent my man to the government coral for my horses.  He returned in a few moments with the intelligence that a party of the volunteers had broken into the coral during the night, and carried off ten horses, and among them both of mine! There was no time now for ferreting out thieves, or hunting stolen animals.  Our wagon was on the way, and my Companions were mounted and waiting.  I hurried to Mr. S----, who I knew had a fine horse in his yard, and offered him two hundred dollars for the animal, but he declined parting with him.  My only resource now was with Mr. T----, who had three horses in his coral, but they were off a long journey the night before.  I struck a bargain at a hundred dollars for one of them, and throwing on my saddle, was under way in a few minutes.</P>
009.sgm:<P>My horse held out pretty well for twenty miles, and then suddenly broke down.  We were on the plain of the Salinas, and there was but little prospect of my being able to procure a substitute.  But just at this crisis the mail rider hove in sight, with a horse in lead.  I arranged with him for the spare animal, transferred my saddle to him, and with a farewell to my wearied steed, started again.  We had directed our wagoner to proceed to San Juan, and expected to overtake him at that place before dark.  But night <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>With brush and bits of bark we managed to sustain our fire, but our prospect for the night was rather gloomy--without a drop of water, without any food, without an overcoat or blanket to cover us, with heavy thunder over head, and the wolves barking around. But we divided ourselves into four watches; one was to keep up the fire while the other three slept, and each take his turn in feeding the flame. My watch came first, and it was the longest two hours I ever experienced.  Every old snag I drew to the fire seemed to exhaust the little strength that remained.  My eyelids would fall, and it seemed impossible to lift them.  I heard the wolves hark, but it was like a noise in one's dream.  But my relief came at last, and throwing myself down close to the fire, I slept too sound even for the thunder.  It was the cold dim gray of advancing morn when I awoke.  A ride of an hour brought us to San Juan, where we found our baggage-wagon at a stream, the mules tethered, and whistling a piteous welcome to our steeds, and the driver blowing into a bundle of reeds and straw, from which a slender thread of smoke was rising into the chill atmosphere.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>San Juan is thirty.four miles from Monterey; the only buildings are a gigantic church and the contiguous dwelling--once occupied by the priests and their Indian neophytes.  The sanctuary remains; but the priests are gone, and the Indians are on the four winds, save those over whom the pine sings its requiem.  We broke our long fast on hard bread, broiled pork, and coffee without milk.  The sun was high when our mules were harnessed, and the crack of the driver's whip told that we were on the way. A few miles brought us to the foot of a hill; when half-way up our mules balked, and the wagon began to travel backward.  We blocked the wheels, and tried to cheer and force them on; but a mule has that peculiar virtue which is insensible alike to flatteries and frowns.  Still we coaxed, and whipped, and cheered, but in vain--there stuck our old wagon, fast as a thunder-cloud on a mountain's bluff.  We had to turn lighters, and carry the greater part of the load, by hand, to the top of the hill.  One of the mules whistled out in seeming derision; while his fellow looked sorry, as if smitten with compunction. This delay consumed several hours, and the sun was far down his western slope when we reached a few shanties on a plain covered in spots with the surviving verdure of the year: here we camped for the night.  One tethered the animals; two brought wood and water; and one turned cook.  We made our supper by the light of our watch-fire, smoked our cigars, and turned down upon the earth, with our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, SEPT. 22.  Day glimmered over the hills and we were up; the gathered brands of our watch. fire kindled again under our camp-kettle. Our breakfast was Soon dispatched, our mules ill harness, our blankets Stowed, and we were on the way.  Ten miles farther, and my third horse, which I had procured at San Juan, began to give out, and I was thrown upon my feet, till relieved by the opportune arrival of a gentleman with a spare horse, which I purchased at his own price, leaving my own to shift for himself.  When on my feet, my thoughts ran bitterly back to the two fine horses with which I had expected to leave Monterey.  We are the least forgiving when we feel most the need of that of which we have been robbed.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Our road lay through a level plain, into which the spur of a mountain range had thrown its bold terminus.  Doubling this, we wound into a deep cove, where wild oats waved, and a copious spring gushed from a cleft of the rock.  It was yet two hours to sunset; but the next stream lay ten miles ahead, and we decided to camp where we were.  Our horses and mules were turned into the ample cove untethered; and in half an hour we had gathered sufficient wood for a strong fire through the night.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:were near the rancho of Mr. Murphy, and the  kind old  gentleman  called, and  invited  us to his house; but we deemed it more prudent to stay by our animals.  Our supper of hard bread, broiled pork, and coffee was quickly prepared, and as quickly disposed of.  The shadows of eve fell fast; we arranged our watches for the night; and each, in his blanket wound, composed himself to sleep.  Mine was the mid-watch: I found the camp-fire bright, and the cliffs around lit with its rays.  I numbered the animals to see that none had strayed, and then sat down to watch the motions of a wolf, who was reconnoitering our camp, with step as soft and low-- <HI REND="blockindent">"As that of man on guilty errand bent."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPT.  23.  We  broke camp, were up and away while  the  dew was yet fresh on the grass. Ten miles brought us to Fisher's rancho, where we procured soft bread and fresh milk. But our animals fared hard; the grasshoppers had been there before them.  We had yet three hours of sun when we reached the lagoon near San Jos&eacute;, but camped there on account of the grass.  A shanty stood near by, where we procured a few potatoes and onions, and a piece of fresh meat, with which we made a stew-quite a luxury on a California road.  The owner of the shanty invited me to a night's lodging, which I accepted, but found my host much more hospitable than his fleas, for I was driven back to my camp before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, SEPT. 24.  This is the Sabbath, and we are in San Jos&eacute;, in the house of Dr. Stokes, to whose hospitality we are indebted for a good table and quiet apartments.  I must here relate a domestic incident in the doctor's family, which fell under my eye while he resided at Monterey, and which pictured itself strongly on my mind.  It was evening, and the hour for rest with the children, when Six little boys and girls knelt around the chair of their father, repeating the Lord's prayer, and closing with the invocation--"God bless our dear parents, and brothers, and sisters, and grant that we meet in heaven at last." Then came the good-night, and the cheerful footsteps to the chamber of soft sleep.  What are gold mines to this?  A glow-worm's light beneath a star that shall never set!</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, SEPT.  25.  San Jos&eacute; is sixty-five miles from Monterey, and stands in the centre of a spacious valley which opens on the great bay of San Francisco.  It is cultivated only in spots, but the immense yield in these is sufficient evidence of what the valley is capable.  A plough and harrow, at which a New England crow would laugh, are followed by fields of Waving grain.  Within this valley lie the rich lands of Com. Stockton, and they will yet feel the force of his vivifying enterprise.  The mission buildings of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Such are the representations of the roads between this and the mines, that we have concluded to part with our wagon and pack our mules.  Mr. Botts, one of our companions, has received intelligence which requires his return to Monterey.  We must proceed without his agreeable society.  Wm. Stewart, Esq., secretary of Com. Jones, and Lieut. Simmons, of the Ohio, have just arrived, on their way to the mines. Two of our mules were now packed the third mounted by our wagoner, and the fourth driven, to guard against contingencies.  Thus equipped, we started again for the mines; but we had hardly cleared the town when one of our mules took fright, plunged over the plain, burst his girth, and scattered on the winds the contents of his pack.  Capt. Marcy and Mr. Wilkinson, with the mules and their driver, returned into town to repack, and I proceeded on in the company of Mr. Stewart and Lieut. Simmons.</P>
009.sgm:<P>We passed the mission of San Jos&eacute;, which stands three leagues from the town.  The massive proportions of the church lay in shadow, but the crowning cross was lit with the rays of the descending sun. No hum of busy streets or jocund voice of childhood saluted the ear.  No eye regarded us but that of the owl gazing in wise wonder from his ivy tower.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPT. 26. My companions, who had returned to San Jos&eacute; to repack the mules, arrived at our camp about mid-day, accompanied by W.  fl. Garner, so long my secretary in the office of alcalde. Our own horses were soon saddled, and we were off all the more light.hearted for this accession to our numbers.  Our road lay through a rolling country covered with live-oak and pine, and through small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 27.  The night had been dark, the wind bleak, and the rack was driving on the sky, when the first rays of the sun kindled the soaring cliffs.  We had the great Tular&eacute; plain to pass and lost no time in finishing our breakfast and effecting an early start.  Crossing the plain attached to the rancho, which we had left, our road lay among steep conical hills feathered with pine, and pyramids of rock piled in naked majesty.  From these we opened on the great plain of the San Joaquin, stretching away like a Sahara, and without an object on which the eye could rest.  The sun was hot, and not a breath of wind crept over the cheerless expanse.  A column of cloud, soaring on the distant horizon, showed where the fearful flame was at work.</P>
009.sgm:<P>We were now in the midst of the plain, when a moving object, dim and distant, rapidly advanced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:into more distinct vision.  It was a band of wild horses, rushing down the plain like a foaming torrent to the sea.  <HI REND="blockindent">"With flowing tail and flying mane,<LB>With nostrils never stretched by Pain,<LB>Mouths bloodless to the bit or rein;<LB>And feet that iron never shod,<LB>And flanks unscarred by spur or rod,<LB>A thousand horse--the wild, the free--<LB>Like waves that follow o'er the sea--<LB>Came thickly thundering on."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>We instantly seized the halters of our pack.mules, and not knowing whether to advance or retreat, waited the issue where we stood.  They swept past us but a short distance ahead, heeding us as little as the Niagara the reeds that tremble on its bank.  The very ground shook with the thunder of their hoofs. Their arching necks and flowing mane, their glossy flanks and sinewy bound made you begrudge them their freedom.  You thought what a flight you might make on them into the mines.  It seemed a pity that so much celerity and strength should be thrown away upon a stampede.</P>
009.sgm:<P>As we advanced the line of the horizon began to lift itself into irregular shapes, like a broken coast at sea.  These emerging forms proved to be the broad tops of a belt of trees, which seemed not more than half a league distant, but which retreated as we advanced, like the bow which childhood pursues. It was a weary ride before we reached them, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.  THE GRAVE OF A GOLD-HUNTER.--MOUNTAIN SPURS.--A COMPANY OF SONORANIANS.--A NIGHT ALARM.--FIRST VIEW OF THE MINES.--CHARACTER OF THE DEPOSITS.--A WOMAN AND HER PAN.--REMOVAL TO OTHER MINES.--WILD INDIANS AND THEIR WEAPONs.--COST OF PROVISIONS.--A PLUNGE INTO A GOLD RIVER.--MACHINES USED BY THE GOLD-DIGGERS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, SEPT. 28.  We Slept soundly last night. The sun had been up an hour before we finished our coffee and vaulted into our Saddles.  A short ride brought us to the San Joaquin river, which we crossed in the primitive way.  We threw our Saddles and packs into a boat, and then getting in ourselves, rowed off leading at the stern one of our little mules, called Nina.  The horses being driven In, followed in her wake and swam to the opposite bank.  The moment they reached the shore, every one lay down and rolled, covering himself with a layer of sand.  My own for once seemed to have caught the mine fever, and without waiting for the saddle, much less his rider, went snorting up the bank.</P>
009.sgm:<P>A mile or two further on, and we passed the grave of one whom I had known well in Monterey.  He was a young man of many amiable and excellent qualities; was on his way to the mines; but in crossing a gulch, now entirely dry, but through which a freshet then swept, became entangled with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Our road for ten miles lay through a level plain corresponding in its cheerless aspect to that we had passed on the other side of the San Joaquin.  We encountered a drove of wild elk with their forest of branching horns, but they kept beyond the range of our rifles, and our horses were too tired to be put on the pursuit.  We had only the satisfaction of venting, in words, our spleen on their speed, but little cared they for that.  They run away at times, as it would seem, from their own horns, for our road was strewn with these cast-off coronets.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Leaving the plain we ascended into a rolling country lightly timbered with oak, pine, and birch.  We wound rapidly forward, till we encountered a stream, and a plot of green grass which had escaped the fire that had been straggling about among the hills.  We were without a guide, and on a trail which at times became rather faint and difficult, and no one knew where we might next meet with water, so We tethered, collected our wood for the night, and lit our camp-fire.  We had no more potatoes or onions for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, SEPT. 29.  One of our company discovered near our camp this morning a little lake, With fish darting about in its lucid waters.  Our twine was soon out and hooked, the alder supplied us with poles, and we answered exactly to Dr. Johnson's definition of angling--"Line and rod, with a worm at one end and a fool at the other," for not a fish would bite; they were not to be caught with a poor wriggling worm, when golden flies were floating about. They were fish of a better taste; and we had to breakfast as we had done before, on broiled pork, hard bread, and coffee.  A famished crow, as if in sympathy with our wants, rattled his bones near by on a dry limb.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The trail which we were following accommodated itself to the wild country through which it lay.  The bold bluff and deep chasm bent it into a constant succession of quick circles and sharp angles.  The head of our train was never in sight of those who occupied the rear, except when we wound over those more gradual slopes which here and there relieved the ruggedness of the landscape.  We met a company of Californians about mid.day, on their return from the mines, and a more forlorn looking group <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPT. 30.  We camped last night in a forest, where a small opening let in the sun's rays upon a plot of green grass and a sparkling spring. Our slumbers were broken in the night by the discharge of a pistol by one of our Company, who saw, or thought he saw, a wolf snuffling about his blanket. We seized our arms, thinking the wild Indians were upon us, but found no enemy.  It was probably the phantom of a disturbed dream.  We scolded the young man soundly who gave the alarm, and turned down on the earth again to finish our night's repose. </P>
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009.sgm:<P>The scenery, as we advanced, became more wild and picturesque.  The hills lost their gentle slopes, and took the form of steep and rugged cones: the mountain ranges were broken by dark and rugged gorges; over crags that toppled high in air, the soaring pine threw its wild music on the wind; while merry streams dashed down the precipitous rocks, as if in haste to greet the green vale below.  A short distance beyond us lay the richest gold mines that had yet been discovered; and nature, as if to guard her treasures, had thrown around them a steep mountain barrier.  This frowning wall seemed as if riven in some great convulsion.  The broad chasm, like a break in a huge Roman aqueduct, dropped to the level plain; while the bold bluffs of the severed barrier gazed at each other in savage grandeur. Beyond this gateway, a valley wandered for some distance, and then expanded into a plain, in the midst of which stood a beautiful grove of oak and pine.  Crossing this, we wound over a rough, rocky elevation, and turned suddenly into a ravine, up which we discovered a line of tents glittering in the sun's rays.  We were in the gold mines!  I jumped from my horse, took a pick, and in five minutes found a piece of gold large enough to make a signet-ring.</P>
009.sgm:<P>We had the unexpected pleasure of meeting here Gov. Mason and Capt. Sherman, who had arrived the evening before in their tour of observation; and Dr. Ord, recently of the army, and Mr. Taylor, of Monterey.  They invited us to their camp and a supper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, OCT. 1.  Another Sabbath, and our first in the mines.  But here and there a digger has resumed his work.  With most it is a day of rest, not so much perhaps from religious scruples, as a conviction that the system requires and must have repose. He is a blind philosopher, as well as a stupid Christian, who cannot see, even in the physical benefits of the Sabbath, motives sufficient to sanctify its observance.  He must be a callous soul, who, with the hope of heaven in his dreams, can wantonly profane its spirit.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCT. 2.  I went among the gold-diggers; found half a dozen at the bottom of the ravine, tearing up the bogs, and up to their knees in mud.  Beneath these bogs lay a bed of clay, sprinkled in spots with gold.  These deposits, and the earth mixed with them, were shovelled into bowls, taken to a pool near by, and washed out.  The bowl, in working, is held <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Not having much relish for the bogs and mud, I procured a light crowbar and went to splitting the slate-rocks which project into the ravine. I found between the layers, which were not perfectly closed, particles of gold, resembling in shape the small and delicate scales of a fish.  These were easily scraped from the slate by a hunter's knife, and readily separated in the wash-bowl from all foreign substances.  The layers in which they were found generally inclined from a vertical or horizontal position, and formed an acute angle with the hank of the ravine, in the direction of the current.  In the reverse of this position, and where the inclination was with the current, they rarely contained any gold.  The inference would seem to be, that these deposits are made by the currents when swelled by the winter rains, and poured in a rushing tide down these channels.  It is only the most rapid stream that can carry this treasure, and even that must soon resign it to some eddy, or the rock that paves its footsteps.</P>
009.sgm:<P>There are about seventy persons at work in this ravine, and all within a few yards of each other. They average about one ounce per diem each. They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, OCT. 3.  We parted to-day with the society of Mr. Stewart and Mr. Simmons: they were on a tour of observation; were bound to Sutter's Fort, and availed themselves of the company of Gov. Mason and Capt. Sherman, who were going in the same direction; may they have an agreeable journey, and each find a lump of gold as big as Vulcan's anvil. We ordered up our own horses, packed our mules, and started for a ravine some seven miles distant. Our path lay over the spur of a mountain, so rugged and steep that we were obliged to dismount.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>We examined several spots on our route for gold, but found none, either on the table-rock, or in the channels of the mountain streams.  If it ever existed there, it had been swept below, or remained in the veins of the rock beyond the reach of pickaxe and spade.  On the plain we fell in with the camp of Mr. Murphy, who invited us into his tent, and set before us refreshments that would have graced a scene less wild than this.  His tent is pitched in the midst of a small tribe of wild Indians who gather gold for him, and receive in return provisions and blankets.  He knocks down two bullocks a day to furnish them with meat.  Though never before within the wake of civilization, they respect his person and property. This, however, is to be ascribed in part to the fact that he has married the daughter of the chief--a young woman of many personal attractions, and full of that warm wild love which makes her the Haide <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The men and boys were busy with their bows and arrows.  A difficulty had arisen between this tribe and one not far remote, and they were expecting an attack.  Though the less powerful tribe of the two, they seemed not the least dismayed.  The old men looked stern and grave, but the boys were full of glee as if mustering for a deer-hunt.  The mothers with Spartan coolness were engaged in pointing arrows with flint stones, so shaped that they easily penetrate and break off in the effort to extract them, and always leave an ugly wound.  They project these arrows from their bows with incredible force, often burying them to the feather in the luckless elk; the deer gives his last life-bound and falls, while the unsuspecting foe drops unwarned from his saddle.  I saw no signs of intoxication among these Indians, and was told by Mr. Murphy that he allowed no liquors in the camp. He said a trader brought there a few days since a barrel of ruin, and that he gave him exactly five minutes in which to decide whether he would quit the grounds, or have the head of the barrel knocked in.  He of course took his fire-curse to some other place.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, OCT. 4.  Our camping-ground is in a broad ravine through which a rivulet wanders, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The provisions with which we left San Jos&eacute; are gone, and we have been obliged to supply ourselves here. We pay at the rate of four hundred dollars a barrel for flour; four dollars a pound for poor brown sugar, and four dollars a pound for indifferent coffee.  And as for meat, there is none to he got except jerked. beef which is the flesh of the bullock cut into strings and hung up in the sun to dry, and which has about as much juice in it as a strip of bark dangling in the wind from a dead tree.  Still, when moistened and toasted, it will do something towards sustaining life; so also will the sole of your shoe.  And yet I have seen men set and grind it as if it were nutritious and sweetly flavored.  Oh ye who lose your temper because your sirloin has rolled once too much on the spit, come to the mines of California and eat jerked-beef! </P>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCT. 5.  The rivulet, which waters the ravine, collects here and there into deep pools. Over one of these a low limb had thrown itself, upon which I ventured out with an apparatus for scooping up the sand at the bottom.  But just as I had lowered my dipper the limb broke, and down I went to the chin in water.  It was some minutes before I could extricate myself, and when I did there was not a dry thread on my body.  The chill of the stream reduced the gold fever in me very considerably.  I had brought no outward garments but those in which I stood; I wrung out the water and hung them up in the sun to dry, and wound myself like an Indian, in my blanket.  But I was not more savage in my aspect than in my feelings.  This, however, soon passed off and I could laugh with others at the gold plunge. But nothing is a novelty here for more than a minute; were a man to cast his skin or lose his head, no one would stop to inquire if he had recovered either, unless they suspected foul play, and then they would arraign and execute the culprit before one of our lawyers could pen an indictment.</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCT. 6.  The most efficient gold-washer here is the cradle, which resembles in shape that appendage of the nursery, from which it takes its name. It is nine or ten feet long, open at one end and closed at the other.  At the end which is closed, a sheet-iron pan, four inches deep, and sixteen over, and perforated in the bottom with holes, is let in even with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.  LUMP OF GOLD LOST.--INDIANS AT THEIR GAME OF ARROWS.--CAMP OF THE GOLD-HUNTERS.--A SONORANIAN GOLD-DIGGER.--SABBATH IN THE MINES.--THE GIANT WELCHMAN.--NATURE OF GOLD DEPOSITS.-AVERAGE PER MAN.---NEW DISCOVERIES.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCT. 7. I had come to the mines without a pick, but this morning fell in with a trader who had one for sale: his price was ten dollars in specie, or eighteen in gold dust.  I gave him the specie; the pick weighed about four pounds, was of rude manufacture, and without a handle; but this appendage was readily supplied from the limb of an ash.  Thus accoutred I strode down the ravine, not doubting but what I should, before night, strike upon some deposit which would fill my pockets.  Passing groups who were engaged in digging into this bank and that, I fell in with a sailor, whom I recognized as one of the men who had been honorably discharged from the Savannah.  He was groping about as if in quest of something he had lost. "W!,at is the matter, Jones?" I inquired; he sprung to his feet, gave me his rough hand, and pointed to a cliff which overhung the glen. "There, on that crag," said he, "I have been at work ever since the peep of day, and got out several bits of gold, and one good-sized lump: I put them in my tin cup, when, striking away again, my pick glanced, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Fatigued, I threw myself into the shade of a scrub. oak, and went to sleep; but the gold of poor Jones glanced through my dreams.  I saw, in that fantastic realm, a small birch-tree, a bubbling spring at its root, and in its fount a piece of gold.  I seemed to know at the time it was only a dream; still the picture remained in my mind so clear, so distinct, that on awaking I identified at a glance the birch, and springing to its root found the little fount, and with a hoe fetched up the piece of gold!--the same that had been lost, for none other could answer so exactly to the description which had been given.  It weighed about three ounces, but did not seem larger than the sparkling eye of the sailor as I placed it in his hand. They may laugh who will at dreams, but now and then some Sibyl leaf floats through them.  I tried to dream again where gold might be found; saw plenty of birch-trees and fountains, but never discovered an ingot in either.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCT. 9.  On returning to our camping-tree <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:this afternoon, I found three wild Indians quietly squatted in its shade.  They had been attracted there by a red belt, which hung from one of the limbs. They could speak only their native dialect, not a word of which could I understand.  We had to make ourselves intelligible by signs.  They wanted to purchase the belt, and each laid down a piece of gold, which were worth in the aggregate some two hundred dollars.  I took one of the pieces, and gave the Indian to whom it belonged the belt.  They made signs for a piece of coin; I offered them an eagle, but it was not what they wanted,--a Spanish mill dollar, but they wanted something smaller,--a fifty-cent piece, and they signified it would do.  Taking the coin they fastened it in the end of a stick, so as to expose nearly the entire circle, and set it up about forty yards distant.  They then cast lots by a bone, which they threw into the air, for the order in which they should discharge their arrows.  The one who had the first shot, drew his long sinewy bow and missed; the second, he missed; the third, and he missed,--though the arrow of each flew so near the coin it would have killed a deer at that distance. The second now shot first and grazed the coin; then the third, who broke his string and shot with the bow of the second, but missed; and now the first took his turn, and struck the coin, whirling it off at a great distance.  The other two gave him the belt, which he tied around his head instead of his blanket, and away they started over the hills, full of wild life and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, OCT.  10.  My companions, who have been out on a gold-hunt for several hours, have just returned, bringing with them about an ounce of gold each.  They are so thoroughly fatigued they prefer sleep to a dinner, connected with the trouble of preparing it.  And there is no other way here; every man is obliged to be his own cook.  We have our henchman, it is true, but he is in a ravine some four miles distant, in charge of our horses and mules.  If he will keep them from straying, or being stolen by the wild Indians, we shall be content to wait on ourselves.  Several of the persons at work in the ravine turned their horses adrift on their arrival, which they might safely do, for the poor things have not got strength enough to climb its steep sides.  They subsist on the acorns which they gather, and a few tufts of grass as dry and scorched as the clover over which the flames of Sodom rolled.  But what think men of the hunger or thirst of dumb animals, when the gold fever is throwing its circle of fire around the soul.</P>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, OCT. 11.  It is near sunset, and the gold-diggers are returning from their labors, each one bearing on his head a brush-heap, with which he will kindle his evening fire.  Their wild halloos, as they come in, fill the cliffs with their echoes.  All are merry, whatever may have been the fortunes of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCT. 12.  I found near our camp this morning a boulder of trap and quartz which had evidently travelled some distance, as nothing of the kind existed in the ravine.  I had no means of demolishing the mass, and could with my pick only dislodge a few of the quartz: these I found veined with gold.  But it is the only specimen of this combination with which I have met.  Where the fellow came from, I know not; but had he tumbled into New York or Philadelphia, instead of this canada, the whole community would have been filled with prattling wonders.  How much the marvellous depends on circumstances!</P>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCT. 13.  I passed a few days since a Sonoranian at work against a steep bank of decomposed granite and clay, which was so firm that he could hardly make an impression upon it with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:heavy sharp-pointed crowbar. "And what, my friend," I inquired, "are you going to get out there?" to which he replied, "A pocket of gold, sir, as soon as I can reach it."  "And what makes you think," I continued, "that you will find a deposit there?" to which he responded, "Do you see that blow-hole on the other side of the ravine, where the slate rock stands out so rough, with a savage mouth in the centre? Well, sir, <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
009.sgm: was the devil's blow-hole, and he blowed the gold straight across the ravine into this bank, where I will find it, if I work long enough." I thought him some half-crazy fellow, and passed on.  He dug away all that day without reaching his pocket; but on the following day took out two pounds of gold, in small pieces, resembling in shape the seeds of the watermellon.  As soon as this was known, four of the New York volunteers struck in each side of the Sonoranian, and dug him out; and the old man very quietly retired.  The intruders dug away through the remainder of the day, but found no gold, and then quit the spot, concluding that the Sonoranian had got out the only pocket which existed there.  The next morning, however, the Sonoranian renewed his attack on the bank, and with his sharp-pointed crowbar and pick, penetrated beyond the layer where the volunteers had knocked off.  Before night he struck another pocket, and took out a pound and a half of gold of the same shape and size as the other.  The volunteers were now roused, arid returned to the spot, determined to dig down the whole bank; but one day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCT. 14.  A party of seven Americans are just in from the higher slopes of the Sierra, where they have been prospecting for gold.  They penetrated to the snow, tearing up roots, overturning rocks, and draining fountains, but discovering no gold.  It is the foot range of the Sierra that contains the deposits; this has been cut into segments by rapid streams, rising higher up, and which have stink their channels into deep gorges.  The larger portion of the gold, subjected to the action of these torrents, has been swept out upon the plain, or buried deep in some nearer undulation, where it will remain undisturbed till the deposits nearer the surface have been exhausted. These deeper treasures, like the inhumed remains of a Herculaneum, will then be brought to light.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, OCT. 15.  A quiet day among the gold-diggers; but few are at work with pick or pan; <illus entity="a009-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>An Alcalde at the mines examining a lump of gold--catches the fever--drops his staff of office, and tells his sheriff to go home and hang the prisoner whom he left at the bar, and he will sentence him afterwards</P>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCT. 16.  I encountered this morning, in the person of a Welchman, a pretty marked specimen of the gold-digger.  He stood some six feet eight in his shoes, with giant limbs and frame.  A leather strap fastened his coarse trowsers above his hips, and confined the flowing bunt of his flannel shirt.  A broad-rimmed hat sheltered his browny features, while his unshorn beard and hair flowed in tangled confusIon to his waist.  To his back was lashed a blanket and bag of provisions; on one shoulder rested a huge crowbar, to which were hung a gold.washer and skillet; on the other rested a rifle, a spade, and pick, from which dangled a cup and pair of heavy shoes.  He recognized me as the magistrate who had once arrested him for a breach of the peace.  "Well, Se&ntilde;or Alcalde," said he, "I am glad to see you in these diggings.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>He continued to dig around the same place, but during the hour I remained with him found no other piece of gold--not a particle.  This is no uncommon thing; I have seen a piece weighing six ounces taken from some little curve in a bank undulating ill its bed, while not another of any size, after the most laborious search, could be found in its vicinity.  This holds true of the larger pieces, but rarely of the scale gold.  Where you find half an ounce of that, you may be pretty sure there is more near by.  The same law which deposited that, has carried its result' much further; and you will find a clue to them in the curves of the channel, or the character and position <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, OCT. 17.  A German this morning, pickIng a hole in the ground, near our camping-tree, for a tent-pole, struck a piece of gold, weighing about three ounces.  As soon as it was known, some forty picks were flying into the earth all around the spot. You would have thought the ground had suddenly caved over some human being, who must be instantly disenhumed or die.  But the fellow sought was not the companion of the digger, but the mate of the yellow boy accidentally found by the German.  But no such mate was discovered; the one found had slumbered thus alone like Adam before the birth of Eve.  How solitary that couch, though in Paradise! Think of that, ye devotees of celibacy, who people your dreams with fairies, and imagine a bliss amid the wrecks of the fall, which was not the portion of man even before that moral catastrophe.</P>
009.sgm:<P>But I forget the piece of gold; no fellow was found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, OCT.  18.  We are camped in the centre of the gold mines, in the heart of the richest deposits which have been found, and where there are many hundred at work.  I have taken some pains to ascertain the average per man that is got out; it must be less than half an ounce per day.  It might be more were there any stability among the diggers; but half their time is consumed in what they call prospecting; that is, looking up new deposits.  An idle rumor, or mere surmise, will carry them off in this direction or that, when perhaps they gathered nothing for their weariness and toil.  A locality where an ounce a day can be obtained by patient labor is constantly left for another, which rumor has enriched with more generous deposits.  They who decry this instability in others, may hold out for a time, but yield at last to the same phrensied fickleness.  I have never met with one who had the strength of purpose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCT. 19.  All the gold.diggers through the entire encampment, were shaken out of their slumbers this morning by a report that a solid pocket of gold had been discovered in a bend of the Stanislaus.  In half an hour a motley multitude, covered with crowbars, pickaxes, spades, rifles, and wash. bowls, went streaming over the hills in the direction of the new deposits.  You would have thought some fortress was to be stormed, or some citadel sapped. I had seen too much of these rumored banks of gold to be moved from my propriety, and remained under my old camping.tree.  Near,this I pecked out from a small crevice of slate rock, a piece weighing about half an ounce.  It had evidently travelled some distance, and taken refuge from the propulsive storms of ages in this little hiding.place, as a good man from the persecutions of the world glides down at last to his sainted repose.  But I have no compunction for having disturbed this piece of gold; it may yet be shaped into an ear.drop, and kiss the envied cheek of beauty; or it may be studded with diamonds, and swell on a billow that  seems  to  blush at the flash of its ray; or it may be shaped into the marriage ring, and set its seal on the purest bliss that greets the visits of angels; or it may be stamped into a coin, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:and as it drops into the hands of the widow or orphan, prove that-- <HI REND="blockindent">"The secret pleasure of a generous act<LB>Is the great mind's great bribe."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>But evening is returning, and with it the gold-diggers from their pursuit of the new deposit.  Their jokes, as they clatter down the slopes of the ravine, are sufficient evidence that they have been on a wild-goose chase. Disappointment Will make a single man sober, but when it falls on a multitude, is often converted into a source of railery and fun.  There is something extremely consoling in having the company of others, when we have been duped through our vanity or exaggerated hopes.  This comfort was deeply felt by the diggers this evening.  All had lost a day, and with it the most enchanting visions of wealth.  All had returned hungry as a Wolf on a desert; or a recluse listening in his last penance to the sound of his cross-bones, shaken by the wind.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.  VISIT TO THE SONORANIAN CAMP.--FESTIVITIES AND GAMBLING.--THE DOCTOR AND TEAMSTER.--AN ALCALDE TURNED COOK.--THE MINERS TATTOO.--THE LITTLE DUTCHMAN.--NEW DEPOSITS DISCOVERED.--A WOMAN KEEPING A MONT&Eacute; TABLE.--UP TO THE KNEE AND NINE-PENCE.--THE VOLCANOES AND GOLD.--ARRIVAL OF A BARREL OF RUM. </HEAD>
009.sgm:    <P>FRIDAY, OCT.  20.  I threw myself into my saddle at an early hour this morning, and started for a canada, about ten miles distant.  The foot-trail which I followed, lay over several sharp ridges to the quick waves of the Stanislaus, and then up a steep mountain spur.  I was obliged to dismount, draw myself up by the bushes, and trust to the fidelity of my horse to follow.  At last we gained the summit, but it was only to gaze down a wild precipitous descent, where the cliffs hung in toppling terror.  A vein of white quartz run along the ridge, like a line of unmelted snow, with here and there spangles of gold glittering in the sun.  I had no implement with me but my hunting.knife, and vainly broke the point of that.  I tried one of my pistols; the bullet knocked out the gold-drop, but jewel and lead went over the steep verge together.  I let myself down by the bushes, blessing every lythe limb and steadfast root, while my horse, more sagacious, fetched a circuit, and reached the plain before me. </P>
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009.sgm:<P>Ascending another ridge, the ravine, which had induced this adventure, lay in jagged wildness beneath.  It Was in uproarious life; an elk had been shot; and the miners were feasting on its fat ribs. The repast was hardly over, when the mont&eacute; table, with its piles of gold, glimmered in the shade.  It was the great camp of the Sonoranians, and hundreds were crowding around to reach the bank, and deposit their treasures on the turn of a card.  They seemed to play for the excitement, and often doubled their stakes whether they won or lost.  They apparently connect no moral obliquity with the game; one of them, who sleeps near my camping.tree, will kneel by the half hour on the sharp rock in his Ave Marias, while the keen night.wind cuts his scarce clad frame, then rise and stake his last dollar at mont&eacute;. At the break of day he is on his knees again, and his prayer trembles up with the first trill of the waking birds.  It was in this ravine that a few weeks since the largest lump of gold found in California was discovered.  It weighs twenty.three pounds, is nearly pure, and cubic in its form.  Its discovery shook the whole mines; the shout of the <HI REND="italics">eureka</HI>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCT. 21.  Extravagant charges here are often made as offsets.  A doctor of my acquaintance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:wishing to remove to another canada a few miles off tost his machine into an empty wagon, bound in that direction, and on arriving, asked the teamster what he was to pay; the reply was a hundred dollars! which was planked down without a word. Soon after this the teamster had a grip of the cholic, from which he sought relief in two or three of the doctor's pills. The relieved patient now asked what <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
009.sgm:<P>I have been out for several hours this morning scouring a conic al hill crowned with quartz.  I took with me the sailor, who knocked his cup of gold out of sight by an accidental glance of his pick.  We searched the hill from top to bottom, shivered the quartz on its summit, and rummaged among the fragments of the same, which the storms of ages had swept to its base, but we found no gold.  Following one of the slopes which terminated in a glen, overhung with willows, and where a current had flowed, we struck into a confined basin, where we found, among the pebbles, a deposit of gold, and gathered, in the course of the day, about two ounces; with beautiful trophies we returned to camp.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCT.  23.  It was now near noon, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:my day to cook the dinner; so I hastened back to our camping-tree, and piling up the half-extinguished brands, soon raised a fire.  Then taking a tin pan, which served alternately as a gold-washer and a bread-tray, I turned into it a few pounds of flour, a small solution of saleratus, and a few quarts of water, and then went to work in it with my hands, mixing it up and adding flour till I got it to the right consistency; then shaping it into a loaf, raked open the embers, and rolled it in, covering it with the live coals.  While this baking was going on, I placed in a stew-pan, after pounding it pretty well between two stones, a string of jerked-beef, with a small quantity of water, and lodged it on the fire.  Then taking some coffee, which had been burnt the evening before, I tied it in the end of a napkin, and hammering it to pieces between two stones, turned it into a coffee-pot filled with water, and placed that, too, on the fire.  In half an hour or so my bread was baked, my jerk-beef stewed, and my coffee boiled.  I settled the latter by turning on it a pint of cold water.  The bread was well done; a little burnt on one side, and somewhat puffed up, like the expectations of the gold-digger in the morning, or the vanity of a stump-orator just after a cheer.  My companions returned, and seating ourselves on the ground, each with a tin cup of coffee, a junk of bread, and a piece of the stewed jerky, our dinner was soon dispatched, and with a relish which the epicure never yet felt or fancied. The water here is slightly impregnated with iron and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, OCT. 24.  The ravine in which we are camped runs nearly north and south, and is walled by lofty ranges of precipitous rock.  It is near ten o'clock of the day before the rays of the sun strike its depths; but when they do reach you, it is with a power that drives you at once into the shade.  It is twilight in the glen, while the cliffs above still blaze in the radiance of the descending orb.  As darkness comes on, the camp.fires of the diggers, kindled along the ravine, throw their light into every recess, where forms are seen, gathered in groups, or glancing about, while every now and then some merry tale or apt joke explodes in a roar of laughter.  At eight o'clock every tin pan and brass kettle is put in requisition, and the thumpers beat a tattoo, which is concluded With the simultaneous discharge of several muskets.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, OCT. 25. A little Dutchman came to me this morning, and informed me, in whispers, that he and his companion had, unbeknown to the rest, stolen off to a glen about three miles distant, where they had found a rich deposit, and then invited me to come and share it with them.  He took my pan, which had served as a bread-tray, and we wound over the hills to his glen.  Here we found his red-haired companion, knee-deep in mud, which he was shovelling out to reach the bed of clay beneath.  On this bed lay the gold in grains about the size of wheat-kernels.  Every now and then the water, which was as cold as ice, would gather in the hole, and required to be bailed out or drained off.  The chill of the water was enough for me; I had tried that once before, and felt no disposition to repeat the experiment. The mud I could stand, for I was already dirty as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:pig just rolling out of his <HI REND="italics">siesta</HI>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCT. 26.  Where is the little Dutchman and the red-haired Paddy? ran in excited inquiry through the ravine this morning, for they had now been missed from the camp twenty-four hours, and no doubt existed on the minds of many that they had found a rich deposit somewhere, and were secretly working it out.  I knew well where they were, but no one thought of questioning me on the subject, for I was looked upon as a sort of amateur gold-hunter, very much given to splitting rocks and digging in unproductive places; and, indeed, this was not far from the truth, for my main object was information, and a specimen of wild mountain life.</P>
009.sgm:<P>But to return to the little Dutchman.  All knew him to be a shrewd gold-hunter, and determined to find him before he should exhaust his discovery.  No <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCT. 27.  I have just returned from an other ravine, five miles distant, where there are eighty or a hundred gold-diggers.  They are mostly Sonoranians, and, like all their countrymen, passionately devoted to gambling.  They were playing at monte; the keeper of the bank was a woman, and herself a Sonoranian.  There was no coin on the table; the bank consisted of a pile of gold, weighing, perhaps, a hundred pounds; and each of the players laid down his ounce or pound, as his means or courage permitted.  The woman, on the whole, appeared to be the winner, though one man, in the course of half an hour, took ten pounds from her yellow pile.  But such a loss was felt only for the moment, and only had the effect to stimulate others to lose what little they had left.  A Sonoranian digs out gold simply <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:and solely that he may have the wherewithal for gambling.  This is the rallying thought which wakes with him in the morning, which accompanies him through the day, and which floats through his dreams at night.  For this he labors, and cheerfully denies himself every comfort. All this is the result of habit. A Mussulman looks upon gambling as a species of larceny,--as a crime which deserves the bastinado.  I saw a Turkish cadi at Smyrna sentence a man to thirty-nine lashes for having, as he termed it, <HI REND="italics">swindled</HI>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCT. 28.  A portion of the party that went in quest of the little Dutchman have found him, and helped him to dig out his new deposit-a sort of assistance for which he can feel no very profound obligation.  It was much like that rendered by Prince Hal in the division of the spoils secured by the knight of sack at Gad's hill.  A successful gold-hunter is like the leader of hounds in the chase -the whole pack comes sweeping after, and are sure to be in at the death.  No doubling hill, or covert, or stream throws them upon a false scent.  I advise all fox-hunters to come here and train their hounds, and throw away their horns.  Even his Grace of Wellington, who is still so hotly keen in the chase, that the snows of eighty winters fall from his locks unperceived, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCT. 30.  I encountered to-day, in a ravine some three miles distant, among the gold-washers, a woman from San Jos&eacute;.  She was at work with a large wooden bowl, by the side of a stream. I asked her how long she had been there, and how much gold she averaged a day.  She replied, "Three weeks and an ounce."  Her reply reminded me of an anecdote of the late Judge B----, who met a girl returning from market, and asked her, "How deep did you find the stream? what did you get for your butter?"  "Up to the knee and nine-pence," was the reply.  Ah! said the judge to himself; she is the girl for me-no words lost there: turned back, proposed, was accepted, and married the next week; and a more happy couple the conjugal bonds never united: the nuptial lamp never waned; its ray was steady and clear to the last.  Ye, who paddle off and on for seven years, and are at last perhaps capsized, take a lesson of the judge.  That "up to the knee and nine-pence" is worth all the rose letters and melancholy rhymes ever penned.  But I am wandering; I did intend to write this journal without an episode, but they will keep forcing themselves in, like the curiosity of the crowd in a family jar, or remembrances of wrong upon a guilty conscience.  I know the interest of a journal depends much on the continuity of its thread; but it is the easiest thing in the world to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:be continuously stupid, and <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, OCT. 31.  I have collected, since my arrival in the mines, several singular and beautiful specimens of the gold.  One of the pieces resembles a pendulous ear-drop, and must have assumed that shape when the metal was in a state of fusion.  That all the gold here has once been in that state is sufficiently evident from the forms in which it is found. I have a specimen, weighing several ounces, in which the Characteristics of the slate rock are as palpable as if they had been engraved.  I have another specimen, in which a clear crystal of quartz is set, with a finish of execution which no jeweller can rival.  I have another specimen still, where the gold gleams up, in the shape of buck-shot, from a basis of sandstone; and another still, where it has taken the form of a paper-folder, and may be used to cut the leaves of a book, which have escaped the knife of the binder. A most interesting cabinet of curiosities might be gathered from the variety of combinations and forms which the gold in these mines has assumed.  Nature never indulged in fancies more elegant and whimsical.  If these are the works of the volcano, then jewellers, instead of looking to the laboratories of Paris, or Amsterdam, for models, should come and seat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, NOV. 1.  There are several persons among the gold-diggers here who rarely use any implement but their wooden bowls.  Into these they scrape the dirt left by others, which they stir and whirl till the gold gradually works its way to the bottom.  The earth, as these heavier particles descend, is thrown off by the hands, and the gold remains. This process is what they call dry washing: it is resorted to where there is no water in the vicinity, and will answer pretty well where the gold is found in coarse grains; but the finer particles, of course, escape.  The Sonoranians obviate this difficulty to some extent by calling their lungs into requisition. They rub the earth into their bowls, through their hands, detaching and throwing away all the pebbles, and then blow off the sand and dust, leaving the gold at the bottom.  But on some of the streams, particularly the Yuba, the gold is too fine even for this process.  It is amusing to see a group of Sonoranians, seated around a deposit, blowing the earth out of their bowls.  But for the dust they raise, you would think they were cooling hasty-pudding.  Their cheeks swell out, like the chops of a squirrel, carrying half the beech-nuts on a tree to his hole.  A more provident fellow he than his two-legged superior!  He lays in his stores against the inclemency of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, NOV. 2.  Quite a sensation was produced among the gold-diggers this morning by the arrival of a wagon from Stockton, freighted with provisions and a barrel of liquor.  The former had been getting scarce, and the latter had long since entirely given out.  The prices of the first importation were--flour, two dollars a pound; sugar and coffee, four dollars; and the liquor, which was nothing more nor less than New England rum, was twenty dollars the quart.  But few had bottles: every species of retainer was resorted to; some took their quart cups, some their coffee-pots, and others their sauce-pans; while one fellow, who had neither, offered ten dollars to let him suck with a straw from the bung.  All were soon in every variety of excitement, from prattling exhilaration, to roaring inebriety. Some shouted, some danced, and some wrestled: a son of Erin poured out his soul on the beauties of the Emerald isle; a German sung the songs of his father-land; a Yankee apostrophized the mines, which swelled in the hills around; an Englishman challenged all the bears in the mountain glens to mortal combat; and a Spaniard, posted aloft on a beetling crag, addressed the universe.  The multitudinous voices which rang <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:from every chasm and cove of the ravine, rivalled the roar that went up around the tower of Babel. But night has come; the camp-fires burn dim; and the revellers are at rest, save here and there one who strides about in his delirium, commanding silence among the wolves who bark from the hills.  What exciting, elevating, and expanding powers there are in a barrel of New England rum!  It makes one today monarch of peopled realms, and their riches; but leaves him to-morrow in rags, and with only ground enough in which to sink his pauper grave.  <HI REND="blockindent">"Thou sparkling bowl! thou sparkling howl!<LB>Though lips of bards thy brim may press,<LB>And eyes of beauty o'er thee roll,<LB>And song and dance thy power confess--<LB>I will not touch thee; for there clings<LB>A scorpion to thy side that stings."<LB>PIERPONT.<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.  NATURAL AMPHITHEATER.--NO SCIENTIFIC CLUE TO THE DEPOSITS OF GOLD.--SOIL OF THE MINES.--LIFE AMONG THE GOLD-DIGGERS.--LOSS OF OUR CABALLADA.--THE OLD MAN AND ROCK.--DEPARTURE FROM THE MINES.--TRAVELLING AMONG GORGES AND PINNACLES.--INSTINCTS OF THE MULE.--A MOUNTAIN CABIN.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, NOV. 3.  At the head of the ravine, where our camping-trees wave, stands  an amphitheatre reared by nature, and unrivalled in the grandeur of its proportions, and the stateliness and strength of its architecture.  It unrolls its wild magnificence on the eye with a more majestic power than even Rome's great wonder.  From its ample arena, circling ranges of crags soar one over the other to the lofty sweep of the architrave, where sentinel-trees toss their branches against the sky.  Had nature reared this theatre on the banks of the Tiber, the beauty and bravery of Rome would have flashed over the arena's gladiatorial tumult.  But it was here in California, where even the Roman eagle, in its earth-embracing circuit, flew not.</P>
009.sgm:<P>A new deposit was discovered this morning near the falls of the Stanislaus, and in the crevices of the rocks over which the river pours its foaming sheet. An Irishman had gone there to bathe, and in throwing off his clothes, had dropped his jack-knife, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, NOV. 4.  The deposits here baffle all the pretensions of science.  The volcanoes did their work by no uniform geological law; they burst out at random, and scattered their gold in wanton caprice.  Were not those old Vulcans dead, they would laugh at the blundering vanity exhibited around them. The old landmarks are the quartz; these are general indications, but too vague when applied to alluvial deposits, and frequently serve only to bewilder and betray.  We have a young geologist here who can unroll the whole earth, layer by layer, from surface to centre, and tell the properties of each, and how it came to be deposited there, who unsuspectingly walked over a bank of gold, which a poor Indian afterwards stirred out with a stick.  I have seen this <HI REND="italics">savan</HI>
009.sgm: camp down and snore soundly through the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, NOV. 5.  I rose this morning with the intention of proposing to the diggers a religious service. But mid-day came, and Only here and there one broke from slumbers doubly deep from the overpowering fatigues of the week in a shaded recess of the hills three of us found a little sanctuary: neither of the two with me was a professor of religion, but each retained in vivid remembrance the religious instructions of his childhood and youth.  Time and distance had not effaced these impressions; each lettered trace remained as legible as the footprints of the primeval bird in the fossil rock.  Such is the inscription of pa. rental fidelity on the heart of a child: the wave may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:wear away the mound which it laves, and the marble dissolve under the touch of time, but <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, NOV. 6.  Vein-gold in these rocks is as uncertain and capricious as lightning; it straggles where you least expect it, and leaves only a stain where its quick volume seemed directed.  It threads its way in a rock without crevice or crack, and where its continuity becomes at times too subtle for the naked eye, and then suddenly bulges out like a lank snake that has swallowed a terrapin.  The great Hebrew proverbialist says there are three things about which there is no certainty,the way of an eagle in the air, the way of a serpent upon a rock, the way of a ship in the midst of the sea; and he might have added--the way of a thread of gold in a vein of California quartz; but probably California, with its treasures, had not then been discovered, though some of our wiseacres are trying to make out that this el <HI REND="italics">dorado</HI>
009.sgm:<illus entity="a009-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Degrees of fortune in the California Gold-diggings.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, NOV. 7.  The price of provisions here is no criterion of their market value on the seaboard, or even at the embarcadaros nearest the mines. The cost of a hundred pounds of flour at Stockton, only sixty miles distant, is twenty dollars; but here it is two hundred dollars.  This vast disparity is owing to the difficulty of transportation and the absence of competition.  But few can be persuaded to leave the expectations of the pick for the certainties of the pack-the promises of the cradle for the fulfilments of the freighted wagon.  All live on drafts upon the future, and though disappointed a hundred times, still believe the results of to-morrow will more than redeem the broken pledges of to-day.  Though all else may end in failure, hope is not bankrupt here.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The soil in the mines is evidently volcanic; it resembles in places the ashes which cover Pompeii. You can walk through it when dry, though every footstep stirs a little cloud; but when saturated with the winter rain you slump to the middle.  No horse can force his way forward; every struggle but sinks him the deeper, and the miner himself retires to his cabin, as thoroughly cut off from the peopled districts of the coast, as a sailor wrecked on some rock at sea.  Years must elapse before human enterprise can bridge a path to these mines, or render communication practicable in the rainy season; nor at any period can heavy machinery be transported here without an immense outlay of capital.  The quartz rock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, NOV. 8.  Some fifty thousand persons are drifting up and down these slopes of the great Sierra, of every hue, language, and clime, tumultuous and confused as a flock of wild geese taking wing at the crack of a gun, or autumnal leaves strown on the atmospheric tides by the breath of the whirlwind. All are in quest of gold; and, with eyes dilated to the circle of the moon, rush this way and that, as some new discovery, or fictitious tale of success may Suggest.  Some are with tents, and some without; some have provisions, and some are on their last ration; some are carrying crowbars; some pickaxes and spades; some wash-bowls and cradles; some hammers and drills, and powder enough to blow up the rock of Gibraltar--if they can but get under it, as the monkeys do, when they make their transit, through a sort of Thames tunnel, from the golden but barren sands of Africa to the green hills of Europe.  Wise fellows they, notwithstanding the length of their tails--they won't stay on the Congo side of the strait, to gather gold, when, by crossing, they can gather grapes.  Wisdom is justified of her children.</P>
009.sgm:<P>But I was speaking of the gold-hunters here on the slopes of the Sierra.  Such a mixed and motley crowd--such a restless, roving, rummaging, ragged multitude, never before roared in the rookeries of man.  As for mutual aid and sympathy--Samson's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:foxes had as much of it, turned tail to, with firebrands tied between.  Each great camping.ground is denoted by the ruins of shovels and shanties, the bleaching bones of the dead, disinhumed by the wolf and the skeleton of the culprit, still swinging in the wind, from the limb of a tree, overshadowed by the raven. From the deep glen, the caverned cliff the plaintive rivulet, the croaking raven, and the wind-toned skeleton come voices of reproachful interrogation-- <HI REND="blockindent">"Slave of the dark and dirty mine!<LB>What vanity has brought thee here?"<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, NOV. 9.  Our baccaro came in this morning, and startled us with the intelligence that last night, while he was on the watch--sound asleep, of course--the wild Indians came, and stole all our horses and mules, save one, little Nina, whom he had tethered close to his post.  Rather an awkward predicament for us, in the California mountains, three hundred miles from home, and our horses and mules in the hands of wild Indians, driving them off into some unknown fastness, to be killed for food!  But I was on the trail of a small piece of gold, and followed it up with that sort of listless equanimity with which a man will sometimes pick up a curious shell on the rocks where his vessel floats in fragments.  If you would acquire those habits which no disaster can disturb, come to California.  One year here will do more for your philosophy than a life elsewhere.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:have seen a man sit, and quietly smoke his cigar, while his dwelling went heavenward in a column of flame.  It seemed as if it were enough for him that his wife and children were safe, and that the green earth, with its bright-eyed flowers and laughing Fills, remained; so let the old tenement pass off in smoke to pall some mountain peak, or throw its dusky shadow where-- <HI REND="blockindent">"The owlet builds his ivy tower."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, NOV. 10.  The Sonoranian, who has been one of the most successful diggers in the ravine, besieged me to-day to sell him my pistols.  They are an elegant pair, silver mounted and rifle bore, and good for duck or duelist--no matter which--for twenty or thirty paces.  He offered me a pound of gold; so I determined to try the non-resistant principle, and let him have them.  As he belted them about his waist, and strode off you would have advised even a California bear to get out of his way. How well prepared for a last extremity is a man with a new weapon at his side, or a new patent pill in his pocket!  The only difference is, that with the former he may chance to kill some one else, and with the latter he is pretty sure to kill himself.  But I promised to make no more remarks; my apology must be the loss of our horses, the probable necessity of being obliged to pick our way home on foot, and the refuge which even an irrelevant thought affords <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, NOV. 11.  I encountered an old man to-day, sitting listlessly on a rock under the broken shade of a decayed oak.  A few gray hairs strayed from under his camping-cap, and his face was deeply wrinkled; but his eye flashed, at intervals, with the fires of an unquenched spirit.  He had not, as he told me, obtained an ounce of gold in this ravine, and was about trying some other locality.  I advised him to roll over the rock on which he was sitting; he said he would do it to please me; but as for gold, he might as well look for a weasel in a watchman's rattle.  The rock was easily rolled from its inclined position;  beneath it was found a layer of moss, and beneath this, in the crevices of another rock, a deposit of gold, in the shape of pumpkin-seeds, bright as if fresh from the mint, and weighing over half a pound. The eyes of the old man sparkled; but he was thinking of his home and those left behind.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, NOV. 12.  Could the parents of the youth in these glens cast a glance at their children, what a tide of affection and concern would rush through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, NOV. 13.  A mounted company of gold-diggers arrived on our camping premises last evening, and we struck in for four horses, which we purchased at their own prices.  Mine is an Indian pony from Oregon, full of heart and hardihood; but as for ease of motion, you might as well ride a trip-hammer. But an extremity makes the most indifferent gift of nature a blessed boon.</P>
009.sgm:<P>We reduced our effects to the fewest articles possible, and packing these, with provisions for three or four days, upon little Nina, were ready for a start.  Two Oregonian trappers joined us, and before the sun's rays <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:struck the depths of the ravine, we were off with three hearty cheers from the diggers.  An hour brought us to the summit of an elevation, beneath which lay, in panoramic life, the ravines, rivulets, rambling paths, and roving groups of the gold.hunters. I have walked on the roaring verge of Niagara, through the grumbling parks of London, on the laughing boulevards of Paris, among the majestic ruins of Rome, in the torch-lit galleries of Herculaneum, around the flaming crater of Vesuvius, through the wave-reflected palaces of Venice, among the monumental remains of Athens, and beneath the barbaric splendors of Constantinople: but none of these, nor all combined, have left in my memory a page graven with more significant and indellible characters than the gold <HI REND="italics">diggins</HI>
009.sgm:<P>Our route lay for several miles through a succession of narrow ravines, above which soared the stupendous steeps of a mountain range, through which some convulsion of nature had sunk these shadowy chasms. Here and there some giant bluff had plunged into the winding abyss, as if to shut out the profane intruder from its silent sanctuaries.  These granite gates became at last so frequent, that we determined to try the ridge, the table-rock, or less precipitous slope.  We wound up the steep sides of the pass one by one, as a weary bird at sea scales the tempest. cloud; and at last emerged upon a lofty range of trap, feathered by the fir and low pine, and where the eagle had made himself a home.  A wide sea of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>We discovered in the last flashes of twilight a gush of waters from the rocks, which beet]ed over a canada, where the grass was fresh from the showering spray. We had struck this spot through no sagacity of our own; Nina, snuffing the water long before it flashed upon us, had turned into the ravine, and dashed ahead upon the gallop.  Here we camped for the night The dried willows supplied us with fuel, the cascade <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, NOV. 14.  We were up, had taken our coffee, and were ready for a start, while as yet only the whispering trees on the higher cliffs had been greeted by the sun. Our course, which was determined by a pocket-compass, now lay among mountain Spurs, till we reached the rollers, which ridge the plain of the San Joaquin.  In a copse of birch, which shadows one of these, we discovered a spring, where we lunched and rested for an hour, while our animals refreshed themselves on the grass, still green on the marge of the fount. We were now off for a hard ride of several hours.  My little Indian hammered into it with a resolution that paid but little heed to the discomfort of his rider.  Our object was to reach before nightfall the cabin of an old friend, who had nested himself out here among these wild mountain crags.  We dashed around this steep, and over that, like hunters in the chase; while Nina, without rein or rider, led <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Three miles of fast riding brought us to a grove of oak, now wrapped in the purple twilight.  Along this we streamed till reaching a bold bend, which circled up into its shadows, when the fagot flame of the cottage struck the eye.  Our horses bounded forward on the gallop, knowing as well as we that the weary day was now over.  Here we found my friend, Dr. Isabell and his good lady, who gave us a hearty welcome.  True, their cabin had but one room in it; but what of that?--hearts make a home in the wilderness  Our first care was for our animals, which were soon watered and turned into a rich meadow, with a faithful Indian to watch them through the night. Our busy hostess soon announced supper--beefsteak, omelet, hot rolls, and coffee, with sugar and cream! If you want to know how that supper relished, come and live a month in the mines of California.  We run over our adventures since leaving Monterey, and they chimed in well with those of our host in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:wild-wood home.  Kindred and friends far away came sweeping down on the stream of memory, and gathered life-like and warm at our sides.  We lived over again all our school-days, our rustic Sports, our husking-bees, our youthful loves, and those stolen kisses, which the sterner rules of refinement have interdicted only to give place to Polkas, in which modesty is too much bewildered to blush.  Our hospitable friends welcomed us to all the sleeping comforts which their cabin afforded; but we camped under the trees, and were soon afloat in the realm of dreams, amid its visioned forms.  <HI REND="blockindent">"Alas! that dreams are only dreams!<LB>That fancy cannot give<LB>A lasting beauty to those forms,<LB>Which scarce a moment live."<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.  A LADY IN THE MOUNTAINS.--TOWN OF STOCKTON.--CROSSING THE VALLEY OF THE SAN JOAQUIN.--THE ROBBED FATHER AND BOY.--RIDE TO SAN JOS&Eacute;.--RUM IN CALIFORNIA.--HIGHWAYMEN.--WOODLAND LIFE.--RACHEL AT THE WELL.--FAREWELL TO MY CAMPING-TREE.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, NOV. 15.  Another day had dawned fresh and brilliant; we breakfasted with our friends, who ordered up their horses, and started with us fold Stockton, twelve miles distant.  Our lady hostess and myself led off; she had crossed the Rocky Mountains on horseback into California, and was, of course, at home in the saddle.  She was mounted on a spirited animal, and my little Indian almost blew the wind out of him to keep up.  My companion, though accomplished in all the refinements of metropolitan life, was yet in love with the wild scenes in which her lot had been east.  The rose of health blushed in her cheek, and the light of a salient soul revelled in her eye.  "I would not exchange," she said, "my cabin for any palace in Christendom.  I have all that I want here, and what more could I have elsewhere? I have tried luxury without health, and a wild mountain life with it.  Give me the latter, with the free air, the dashing streams, the swinging woods, the laughing flowers, and the exulting birds; and <HI REND="blockindent">"Let him who crawls enamored of decay,<LB>Cling to his couch, and sicken years away.'"<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<P>We were now at Stockton, the nucleus of a town at the head waters of a narrow arm of the San Joaquin.  The site is well chosen; its central position to the gold mines, the broad fertile plain which spreads around it, and the water communication which connects it with the commerce of the Sacramento and San Francisco, will lift it into a town of the first importance.  Charles Weber, a gentleman much esteemed for his liberality and enterprise, is the owner of the land now occupied by the town, and many leagues adjacent.  He has given spacious lots to all who would erect buildings.  His policy is marked with wisdom; he will find his advantage in the results.  His ample store is well filled with provisions, groceries, and ready-made clothing.  The amount of business is immense, and the profits would phrensy our Philadelphia merchants.</P>
009.sgm:<P>We found Stockton without a hotel, the private houses unfinished; and, caring but little for either, camped under the trees.  We took supper with Mr. Weber, and, at a late hour, wound ourselves in our blankets for repose.  The dew fell heavy, but we slept through it without the least harm.  A hydropathist might have exchanged his sheet for a twist in one of our wet blankets.  But we had no rheumatic joints to be relaxed, and no bone-burrowed mercury to be douched.  What an envied lot, that of the pearl-diver!  He gets not only his bath, but a pearl besides.  And what a happy fellow is a fish!  He is always head and tail in the hydropathic process.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:wonder if it is not this that gives the shark such an appetite, and lends wings to the flying-fish.  Even the bullfrog comes up only to twang his joy, and the whale to blow off his excess of pleasure, while the mermaid, lost in transport, sings in her coral hall till the listening naiads feel <HI REND="blockindent">"Their souls dissolve in her melodious breath."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, NOV. 16.  Replenishing our panniers with hard bread, and a few pounds of dried venison and coffee, we bade adieu to our Oregonian ii-lends and the hospitable proprietor of Stockton, and were off for our distant home.  Our trail for sixteen miles lay through an arid plain, when we brought up on the bold bank of the San Joaquin.  Our saddles, bridles, packs, and persons were thrown into a boat, our horses driven into the stream, and over we dashed to the opposite bank, where we paid two dollars each for our ferriage, and mounted for a fresh start.  It was near sunset when we reached the line of trees which belt, with their thick umbrage, the great valley which stretches in barrenness beyond.  Here we camped for the night, and soon found, to our pleasurable surprise, our friends Lieut. Bonnycastle and Lieut. Morehead, of the army, in a camp not more than an arrow's flight distant.  They were on their way to the mines, and if excellent qualities of head and heart can secure success, must return with fortunes.  Night deepened apace, and our simple repast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, NOV. 17.  The day glimmered over the hill-tops: a cup of coffee, a cake of hard bread, and a scrap of dried venison, and we were under way again.  Our trail lay for fifteen miles over the prairie of the San Joaquin.  Though now in November, yet the heat was oppressive.  We encountered groups of disbanded volunteers, on their way to the mines. The soldiers' improvidence had left but very few the means of procuring horses, and they were generally on foot, and crippled with blisters.  Going <HI REND="italics">to</HI>
009.sgm: the mines is one thing; returning <HI REND="italics">from</HI>
009.sgm:<P>It was mid-day when we struck the hills which roll their low forests to the verge of the prairie.  In a glen, where sparkled a spring and the pine threw its shadows, we encountered an elderly man and his little boy.  The parent was silent, downcast, and abstracted, and his boy was evidently trying to cheer him.  The father, in reply to our inquiries, informed us that they had been in the mines, where, by great industry and good fortune, they had got out twenty pounds of gold; that on their return they had camped for the night near Stockton; that leaving their camping-tree for a few hours to renew their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>We invited the father and son to join our company; and when on the way, the little boy, who was mounted on a pony at my side, told me a subscription had been started at Stockton for his father, and that Mr. Weber and Dr. Isabell had subscribed a pound of gold each.  Blessings on those liberal men! such a charity will throw a circle of light around misfortune, should it ever be <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
009.sgm: lot.  The sun was far down his western dip when we reached the hospitable hearth of our friend Mr. Livermore; but finding that he had no grain for our horses, and that the grass around had utterly perished under the summer's drought, we determined to push on; and, crossing a plain of eight miles, reached the mountain rollers, where we struck into a ravine, through which a streamlet murmured, and where a plot of grass still <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:preserved some portion of its freshness.  Here we tethered and camped.  The brief twilight that remained had passed into night's bosom before we had gathered sufficient wood for our camp-fire: and we needed a large pile; for the air was chill and penetrating.  We made our supper on hard bread, dried venison, and coffee; while clouds, the sure precursors of the winter rains, drifted above in sluggish masses. Our camp-fire threw its column of waving flame on the beetling crags; not a sound from cavern or cliff' disturbed the silence; we gazed into the fire, lost in pensive musing; and a more melancholy group seldom gathers over that face-- <HI REND="blockindent">"Where life's last parting pulse has ceased to play,"<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>when an owl perched near, gave a deep hoot! Each broke into an involuntary laugh.  The philosophy of that transition I leave to those whose metaphysical acumen can split the shadow which falls between melancholy and mirth.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, NOV. 18.  Another morn full of rosy charms comes blushing over the hills; at the glance of her eye the shadows flee away, and the birds awaken into song.  The stir of preparation rustles the leaves under our camping-tree, and while the dew yet gems the grass, we are up and away.  What salient freshness and force are in the heart which takes its pulses from the waving wild-wood and the dashing stream!  The exhilaration in its fullest tide never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Our path, which lay through a mountain gorge, bent its line to a winding rivulet, laughing and singing through the solitude.  Little cared <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
009.sgm: for marble fount or sculptured dolphin; it was happy in its own free life, and the kisses of the enamored pebbles, which danced in its limpid wave.  And now the white walls of the old church, where the mission of San Jos&eacute; reared its altars, glimmered into vision. Fast and far the separating interval was left behind, when we dashed up to its welcome portal.  Here we found an Irish restaurant, and set its culinary functions in motion-- <HI REND="blockindent">"Nothing's more sure at moments to take hold<LB>Of the best feelings of mankind, which grow<LB>More tender, as we every day behold,<LB>Than that all-softening, overpowering knell,<LB>The tocsin of the soul-the dinner-bell!"<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, NOV. 19.  My companions pushed on last evening to San Jos&eacute;--fifteen miles distant.  My old Russian friend, who occupies one of the mission buildings, invited me to spend the Sabbath with him; an invitation which I gladly accepted, as it afforded a refuge from the restaurant, with the roar of its revelry and rum.  The United States have sent out enough of this fire here to burn up a continent.  The conflagration, kindled by the battle-brand or bolt of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:the electric cloud, may sweep a forest, or lay a city in ashes; but from the smouldering ruins new structures will rise, and a new generation of plants spring; but where the Spirit of rum hath spread its flame a desolation follows, which the skill of man and the reviving dews of heaven can never reach.  It is barren and verdureless as the sulphurous marl which paves <HI REND="blockindent">"The deep track of hell"<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, NOV. 20.  For a moment this morning I regretted having parted with my pistols, and thrown myself on the non-resistant principle.  I was alone, and on my way to San Jos&eacute;, when two horsemen suddenly broke from the covert of the woods on my left, and swept down upon the line of my path.  They were well mounted, and had the dare-devil air of the brigand.  It was near this spot, too, that a young friend of mine had been recently murdered.  To attempt flight on my Indian pony from the lightning hoof of my pursuers, would have given to consternation itself a hue of the ludicrous.  I determined to die decently, if die I must.  My supposed assailants dashed close to my side, and then, without uttering a word, spurred back to the forest, from which they had debouched. They were foreigners, disguised as Californians; for a native always salutes you, and would, were his hand on the trigger of his pistol.  They went as they came, and the secret of their impetuous visit is in their own keeping.  I was quite willing to part with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, NOV. 21.  Arriving at the Pueblo, I found my companions had hired four horses, accustomed to the harness, attached them to the wagon, which we had left here, on our way to the mines, and were ready to start for Monterey.  I threw my saddle, bridle, and blanket into the wagon, and parted with my Indian pony: he had done me good service, and got me out of a bad fix in the mines; he had pounded me some, it is true; but that was no fault of his; nature never intended him to tread on flowers without bending their stems.  May his new owner treat him kindly; and when age has withered his strength, not turn him out on a public common to die!  Had we as little mercy shown us as we extend to the noblest animal committed to our care, we should never get to heaven.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The sun was far down his western slope when we reached the rancho of Mr. Murphy, and camped for the night under the evergreen oaks, which throw the soft shade of their undying verdure over a streamlet that murmurs near his door.  The old gentleman invited us in to share his restricted apartments, but we had so long slept under trees, that we preferred the free air, the maternal earth, and the stars to light us to our slumber.  Truly I never slept so soundly on the <illus entity="a009-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"Come, old fellow, you had better knock off, and go home with me."--"No, I'll be dang'd if I do.  I'm in for the gold, and will find it, or dig out the other side.  I'm told it is only eight thousand miles through! so, here goes!"</P>
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009.sgm:garnished couch, and never found in sleep such a renovating refreshment. I can now comprehend why it is the hunter clings to his wild life, and prefers the precarious subsistence of his rifle to teeming stalls. He lives out of himself; his sympathies are with nature; his sensations roll through boundless space. It is for <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
009.sgm: eye the violet blooms, and the early cloud catches the blush of morn; it is for <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
009.sgm: ear the bird sings from its green covert, and the torrent shouts from its cliff; it is to cheer <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
009.sgm: footsteps that the twilight lingers, and the star blazes in the coronet of night: all the changes of the varied year are for <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, NOV. 22.  We broke camp at sunrise, took our coffee, harnessed up, and began to lumber ahead.  Our driver, who owned the dull steeds which he reined, was a native of New England, and betrayed his origin in the perpetual hum of a low plaintive tune, which spun on for hours in the same unconscious monotony.  Even the crack of his whip, which came in frequently, had only the effect to give some note a slight emphasis, while the low dirge still murmured on, true to its unbroken flow as the tick of the death-watch to its admonitory errand.  Thus the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>But now occurred a wayfaring incident which could not thus be charmed to rest.  Our team, about half way up the long hill of San Juan, balked, and the wagon began to roll back to its base.  We jumped out and clogged the wheels, for we had no idea of returning again to the mines.  Having breathed a moment, we made another attempt, but without success; we now put our shoulders to the wheels, while the lash fell fast on the flanks of our horses.  But no pushing, coaxing, or whipping availed; our journey for the day was done, and abruptly too as that of a migratory goose struck by a rifle ball.  The shadows of the mountain pines were lengthening fast, and we retired into a glen at a short distance, and camped.  It was my duty to procure water for coffee; the spring where the horses drank was too full of impurities; I followed up the unseen vein marked by the green willows, till its flowing wave murmured on the ear from the depths of a shadowy chasm.  But the method of reaching it puzzled me as much as the faithful proxy of the Patriarch would have been, but for the pitcher and line of the gentle Rachel.  How free of affectation and false alarm that daughter of Israel, as her snow-white arms drew the limpid tide to quench the stranger's thirst!  How free of a distrustful spirit, or disdaining pride, when told that one whom her father loved, sued for her bridal hand! The wave which swelled in her milk-white bosom may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, NOV. 23.  We escaped this morning another balk of our animals by a circling road which in the dusk of the last eve we had missed.  It was mid-day when we rumbled from the hills of San Juan upon the plain of the Salinas, and near sunset when we reached the river, which rolls its yellow wave fifteen miles from Monterey.  We might have pushed through, but why be impatient over a night's delay? I had no one there watching a husband's return, or waiting a father's kiss.  These objects of endearment were in other lands, and oceans rolled between. More than three long years had worn away since I waved my adieu, and weary moons must set before my return.  I may find the eyes that beamed so kindly, closed forever; the bud of infant being, on which their last light fell, withered.</P>
009.sgm:<P>We were roused in the night by screams from the river; an ox-cart, with three women in it, had tumbled down the opposite bank.  The cattle seemed as much frightened as their passengers, and fared better, as they had struck a shallower bottom. We plunged in and reached the cart.  Our first impulse was to take the women out and <HI REND="italics">tote</HI>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, NOV. 24.  We broke camp at an early hour, and were off for Monterey.  I left my camping-tree as one parts with a tried friend.  It was the last of a vernal band, that had thrown over me, at burning noon and through the chilly night, their protecting shade.  While our driver hummed his low monotonous stave to his Steeds, my neglected reed murmured in the counter--</P>
009.sgm:<P>TO MY CAMPING-TREE.  <HI REND="blockindent">Farewell to thee, my camping-tree,<LB>The last to shade this breast,<LB>Where twilight weaves, with tender leaves,<LB>Her couch of rosy rest.<LB>Thy trembling leaf seemed shook with grief,<LB>As on it gleamed the dew;<LB>As woke the bird, by night-winds stirred,<LB>The stars came dancing through.<LB>In lucid dreams I caught the gleams--<LB>Through chasmed rocks unrolled--<LB>Of gems, where blaze the diamond's rays,<LB>And massive bars of gold.<LB>I saw a ship her anchor trip,<LB>All stowed with gold below,<LB>Depart this bay for Joppa's quay,<LB>Three thousand years ago!<LB>A star-lit dome, of amber foam,<LB>Loomed in the liquid blue,<LB>Where reigned of old, on thrones of gold,<LB>The Incas of Peru.</HI>
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009.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The midnight moans, and phrensied groans,<LB>Of miners near their last,<LB>In tones that cursed the gold they nursed,<LB>Came trembling on the blast.<LB>While one apart, with gentler heart,<LB>His still tears dashed aside,<LB>That he might trace a pictured face,<LB>At which he gazed, and died.<LB>On steep and vale, in calm and gale,<LB>Like music on the Sea<LB>Sweet slumber stole, within my soul,<LB>Beneath the camping-tree.<LB>A low-voiced tone, the wind hath thrown<LB>Upon my dreaming ear,<LB>Of ONE, whose smiles, and gentle wiles,<LB>Are still remembered here:--<LB>Of one, whose tears--where each endears<LB>The more the heart that wept--<LB>From swimming lid in silence slid,<LB>And on her bosom slept.<LB>A blue-eyed child, with glee half wild,<LB>In infant beauty's beams,<LB>And lock that rolled, in waving gold,<LB>Came glancing through my dreams.<LB>Farewell to thee, my camping-tree;<LB>Till life's last visions gleam,<LB>Thy leaves and limbs, and vesper hymns,<LB>Shall float in memory's dream.<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV.  CAUSE OF SICKNESS IN THE MINES.--THE QUICKSILVER MINES.--HEAT AND COLD IN THE MINES.--TRAITS IN THE SPANISH CHARACTER.--HEALTH OF CALIFORNIA LADIES.--A WORD TO MOTHERS.--THE PINGRASS AND BLACKBIRD.--THE REDWOOD-TREE.--BATTLE OF THE EGGS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, DEC. 2.  I found Monterey, on my return from the mines, under the same quiet air in which her green hills had soared since I first beheld their waving shade.  Many had predicted my precipitate return, from the hardships and baffled attempt of the tour; but I persevered, taking it rough and tumble from the first, and have returned with improved health  I met with but very few cases of Sickness in the mines, and these obviously resulting from excessive imprudence.  What but maladies could be expected, where the miner stands by the hour in a cold mountain Stream, with a broiling sun overhead, and then, perhaps, drinking every day a pint of New England rum? Why, the rum itself would shatter any constitution not lightning-proof  I wish those who send this fire-curse here were wrapped in its flames till the wave of repentance should baptize them into a better life.</P>
009.sgm:<P>I have missed but two things, since my return, from my goods and chattels-my walking-cane and my Bible; both have been carried off during my absence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, DEC. 12.  The quicksilver mines of California constitute one of the most important elements in her mineral wealth.  Only one vein has as yet been fully developed; this lies a few miles from San Jos&eacute;, and is owned by Hon. Alexander Forbes, British consul at Typ&eacute;, in Mexico--a gentleman of vast means and enterprise--and who has a heart as full of generous impulses as his mine is of wealth.  Many of our countrymen, in misfortune, have shared his munificent liberality:  His mine, in the absence of suitable machinery, has been worked to great disadvantage; and yet, with two whaling-kettles for furnaces, he has driven off a hundred and fifty pounds a day of the pure metal.  If this can be done with an apparatus intended only for trying blubber, a ton may be rolled from a capacious retort constructed for the purpose.  The title of Mr. Forbes to this mine has excited some inquiry, but it will be found among the soundest in California.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>Instead of attempting to shake this title, a more wise and profitable course will be to open a fresh vein.  They lie in the contiguous spurs of the same mountain range, and only require a small outlay of labor and capital to develop their untold wealth. The metal need not travel from California to find a market; vast quantities will be required in the gold mines: the cradle and bowl must give place to more complicated machinery; the sands of the river pass through a more delicate process; and the quartz of the steep rock, crumbled under the stamper, surrender its gold to the embrace of quicksilver.  This stupendous issue is close at hand; and they who anticipate it, will find the fruits of their sagacity and enterprise in sudden fortunes.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, DEC. 25.  The multitudes who are in the mines, suffer in health and constitution from the extreme changes of temperature which follow day and night.  In some of the ravines in which we camped, these variations vibrated through thirty and forty degrees.  In mid-day we were driven into the shade to keep cool, and in the night into two or three blankets to keep warm.  The heat is ascribable in part to the nature of the soil, its naked sandy features, its power of radiation, and the absence of circulation in the glens.  But the cold comes with the visits of the night wind from the frosty slopes of the Sierra Nevada.</P>
009.sgm:<P>These extreme variations follow the miner through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, JAN. 7.  Lapses from virtue are not unfrequently associated, in the character of the Spanish female, with singular exhibitions of charity and self-denial.  She is often at the couch of disease, unshrinkingly exposed to contagion, or in the hovel of destitution, administering to human necessity.  She pities where others reproach, and succors where others forsake.  The motive which prompts this unwearied charity, is a secret within her own soul.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Denunciation never yet protected the innocent, confirmed the wavering, or recovered the fallen. That spirit of ferocity which breaks the bruised reed, partakes more of relentless pride than virtuous disapprobation.  Many sever themselves from all sympathy with the erring, from the mistaken apprehension that the wider the chasm, the more advantageous the light in which <HI REND="italics">they</HI>
009.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">go, and sin no more</HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JAN. 16.  The climate on the seaboard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Think of this, ye mothers who cloister your daughters in air-tight parlors, with furnaces blowing in hot steam from below.  It is no wonder they wither from their cradles, and that their bridal couch is often ashes.  Your mistaken tenderness, vanity, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:pride have supplied death with trophies long enough. Look here to California; among all these mothers and daughters, there is not one where the cankerworm of that disease is at work which has spread sorrow and dismay around your hearths.  The insidious disguises and sapping advances of the consumption are not known here; I have not yet met with the first instance where this disease, contracted here, has found a victim.  It is your in-door habits, hot parlors, prune]las, and twisting corsets, that clothe this generation with weeds, and bequeath to the next constitutions that fall like grass under the scythe of death.  If your daughters won't take out-door exercise from persuasion, then drive them forth as the guardian angel of Eden your erring progenitrix.  It may have been that the development of her physical forces, as well as retributive justice, induced her expulsion from the luxurious roses, the balmy airs, and lulling streams of her first abode.  But your Eves will come back again, and sparkling eyes, and buoyant spirits, and a vigorous pulse will commend your maternal wisdom; and when a man, worthy of your confidence and the affections of your daughters, wants a wife, his choice will not lie in a group of valetudinarians.  He carries off a bird that floats a strong wing, and that can sing in concert with him as they build the nest out of which other harmonies are to charm the warbling grove; and then, too, the young fledglings will come back to you, all bright and beautiful, and touched with the spirit of gladness in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, JAN. 24.  Nature never leaves any portion of her troubled domain without a compensation.  Here, where the hills and plains, under the long summer's drought, become so parched and dry that the grasshoppers cease to sing, she presents a pingrass, on which the cattle still thrive; and when this fails, it has already dropped a seed even more nutritious than the stein which sustained its bulbous cradle.  For this, a California horse will leave the best bin of oats that ever waved in the harvest-moon. The first copious shower, which usually occurs in November, destroys it, but around its ruins another grass springs, to throw its green velvet, inwrought with millions of flowers, on the charmed eye.  It is no wonder the birds here sing through the year, and forego those migrations to which they are subjected in other climes.  The lay of the robin, the whistle of the quail, and the tender notes of the curlew, are always piping in the grove, or filling with melody the garden-tree.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Were the blackbird to migrate, and never come back, no farmer would regret his absence; for he is a mischievous bird, who has no respect for the rights of property.  He squats by millions where he likes, and would rob a wheat-field of its last kernel with a thousand thunders rattling overhead.  His legions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, FEB. 7.  There is one tree in California that is worthy of note, which is peculiar to the country, and as deserving a place on her coat-of arms as her grizzly bear, and much more so, unless her people intend to overawe their neighbors with the terrors of their insignia.  This tree is called the redwood, and closely resembles, in its texture, size, and antiseptic qualities, the giant cedars which have pinnacled, through the storms of a thousand years, the steeps of Lebanon. It is found on the table-lands between the coast range and the sea, and grows in distinct forests, like the savage tribes which once slumbered in its shadows. Its shaft rises straight and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, FEB. 16.  Mr. Larkin has closed the amusements of the carnival with a splendid entertainment, graced with all the beauty and bravery of Monterey.  As no egg could be broken after midnight, without trenching on the solemnities of Lent, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:each went equipped with these weapons, ready for an early contest.  Several small volleys opened the engagement between some of the parties; while the fandango engrossed the attention of others.  In this oval war the ladies are always the antagonists of the gentlemen, and, generally, through their dexterity, and larger supply of ammunition, bear off the palm. They will sometimes carry two or three dozen rounds each, and as snugly stowed away as cartridges in the box of a new recruit.  Still both parties will fight it out-- <HI REND="blockindent">"With blow for blow, disputing inch by inch,<LB>Where one will not retreat, nor t'other flinch."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>But there were two shot in the company, in the shape of goose eggs, well filled with cologne, to which an unusual interest attached.  One of them had been brought by Gen. M----, the other by Donna J----, and each was only watching an opportunity for a crash on the head of the other.  Both were endowed with physical force, dexterity, and firmness, and a heart in which pity relaxed none of these energies.  Neither turned an eye but for a moment from the other; but in that moment the donna dashed to the side of the general, and would have crashed her egg on his head, had not the blow been instantly parried.  The assailed now became the assailant, and both were in for the last tests of skill-- <HI REND="blockindent">"While none who saw them could divine<LB>To which side conquest would incline."<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<P>The donna changed her tactics, stood on the defensive and parried, and in one of these dexterous foils dashed her egg on the head of her antagonist, who, in the same instant, brought his down plump on hers. Both were drenched in cologne; both victors in defeat: a shout followed, which shook the rafters of the old tenement.  The engagement now became general; each had his antagonist, and must "do or die;" the battle swayed this way and that--sometimes in single combat, and at others in vollied platoons; and then along the whole blazing line: each recoil was recovered by a more vigorous assault; each retreat in rallied thunder, more than redeemed; while first and foremost, where wavered or withstood the foe-- <HI REND="blockindent">"The <HI REND="italics">donna</HI>
009.sgm: cheered her band."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>But, in this most critical crisis of the field, the fire began to slacken along the line of the men; their ammunition was giving out; only a few rounds here and there remained; the heroines perceived this, and opened with double round and grape on their foes-- <HI REND="blockindent">"Who form--unite--charge--waver--all is lost!"<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>The bell tolled the hour of midnight, and Lent came in with her ashes to bury the dead!  They may trifle who will with this field; but there was more in it worthy of a good man's remembrance than half the fields fought from Homer's day to this.  If this be treason to the bullet and blood chivalry--make the most of it.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI.<LB>THE PUBLIC DOMAIN.--SCENERY AROUND MONTEREY.--VINEYARDS OF LOS ANGELES.--BEAUTY OF SAN DIEGO.--THE CULPRIT HALL.--THE RUSH FOR GOLD.--LAND TITLES.--THE INDIAN DOCTRESS.--TUFTED PARTRIDGE.--DEATH OF COM. BIDDLE</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, FEB. 24.  All the land grants in California are blindly defined; a mountain bluff, lagoon, river, or ravine serve as boundaries; and these not unfrequently comprehend double the leagues or acres contemplated in the instrument.  No accurate surveys have been made; and the only legal restrictions falling within these vague limits, is in the shape of a provision that the excess shall revert to the public domain.  This provision, which is inserted in most of the grants, will throw into the market, under an accurate survey, some of the best tracts in California.  These will be seized upon by capitalists and speculators, and held at prices beyond the means of emigrants, unless some legislative provision shall extend peculiar privileges to actual settlers.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The lands which lie through the gold region are uninvaded by any private grants, except one on the Maraposa, owned by Col. Fremont; one on the Cosumes, owned by W. E. P. Hartnell, and the limited claims of Johnson on Bear river, and Capt. Sutter on the Americano. All the other lands stretching from Feather river on the north, to the river Reys <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, FEB. 27.  At an early hour this morning a huge floating mass, with her steep sides dark as night, was seen winding into the bay without sail, wind, or tide. Such a wizard phenomenon was never seen before on this coast, and might well alarm the natives, especially when the great guns of the fort rolled their thunder at her: and still she neared! heaving the still waters into cataracts at her side, and sending up her steep column of smoke, as if a young Etna were at work within.  They who had witnessed such things in other parts of the world, shouted "The steamer! the steamer!" and instantly the echo came back with redoubled force from a hundred crowded balconies.  The whole community was thrown into excitement, wonder, and gratulation; cheers and shouts of welcome rent the air; all liquors were free to brim the bumpers; and basket after basket of champagne went gratuitously into the streets, till their flying corks rose like musket-shot in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:a general feu de joie.  The last distrust of good faith in the government vanished; and all saw the dawn of a higher destiny breaking over California.  The enterprise of a Howland and Aspinwall blazed in this new aurora, and filled the whole horizon with light. The golden promise which had floated in doubt and earnest hope had been redeemed and the union of California with the glorious confederacy achieved. What now were oceans and an isthmus!--only a few waves and a narrow line of earth, unfelt under the conquering powers of steam.  Such was the tumult of transport which hailed the first steamer; such her welcome to the <HI REND="italics">el dorado</HI>
009.sgm: of the West.  No gold mine sprung in the Sierra ever roused half the wonder, hope, and general joy. MONDAY, MARCH 5.  The scenery around Monterey and the <HI REND="italics">locale</HI>
009.sgm: of the town, arrest the first glance of the stranger.  The wild waving background of forest-feathered cliffs, the green slopes, and the glimmering walls of the white dwellings, and the dash of the billows on the sparkling sands of the bay, fix and charm the eye.  Nor does the enchantment fade by being familiarly approached; avenues of almost endless variety lead off through the circling steeps, and winding through long shadowy ravines, lose themselves in the vine-clad recesses of the distant hills.  It is no wonder that California centred her taste, pride, and wealth here, till the Vandal irruption of gold-hunters broke into her peaceful domain. Now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, MARCH 7.  Emigrants, when the phrensy of the mines has passed, will be strongly attracted to los Angeles, the capital of the southern department.  It stands inland from San Pedro about eight leagues, in the bosom of a broad fertile plain, and has a population of two thousand souls.  The San Gabriel pours its sparkling tide through its green borders.  The most delicious fruits of the tropical zone may flourish here.  As yet, only the grape and fig have secured the attention of the cultivator; but the capacities of the soil and aptitudes of the climate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>San Diego is another spot to which the tide of Immigration must turn.  It stands on the border line of Alta California, and opens on a land-locked bay of surpassing beauty.  The climate is soft and mild the year round; the sky brilliant, and the atmosphere free of those mists which the cold currents throw on the northern sections of the coast.  The sea-breeze cools the heat of summer, and the great ocean herself modulates into the same temperature the rough airs of winter.  The seasons roll round, varied only by the fresh fruits and flowers that follow in their train.  I would rather have a willow-wove hut at San Diego, with ground enough for a garden, than the whole peninsula of San Francisco, if I must live there.  The one is a Vallambrosa, where only the zephy rstirs her light wing; the other a tempest-swept cave of &AElig;olus, where the demons of storm shake their shivering victims.  The lust of gold will people the one, but all that is lovely in the human heart spread its charm over the other.  Before the eyes that fall on these pages are under death's shadow, San Diego <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, MARCH 8.  The town-hall, on which I have been at work for more than a year, is at last finished.  It is built of a white stone, quarried from a neighboring hill, and which easily takes the shape you desire.  The lower apartments are for schools; the hall over them--seventy feet by thirty--is for public assemblies.  The front is ornamented with a portico, which you enter from the hall.  It is not an edifice that would attract any attention among public buildings in the United States;  but in California it is without a rival.  It has been erected out of the slender proceeds of town lots, the labor of the convicts, taxes on liquor shops, and fines on gamblers. The scheme was regarded with incredulity by many; but the building is finished, and the citizens have assembled in it, and christened it after my name, which will now go down to posterity with the odor of gamblers, convicts, and tipplers.  I leave it as an humble evidence of what may be accomplished by rigidly adhering to one purpose, and shrinking from no personal efforts necessary to its achievement.  A prison has also been built, and mainly through the labor of the convicts.  Many a joke the rogues have cracked while constructing their own cage;  but they have worked so diligently I shall feel constrained to pardon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, MARCH 9.  There is one event in the recent history of California; which has carried with it decisive moral results.  Till the intelligence of peace reached here, a bewildering expectation bad been entertained by many, that Mexico would never consent to part with this portion of her domain.  This idea, vague and groundless as it was, interfered with all permanent plans of action affecting individual capital and enterprise.  To this state of uncertainty the news of peace, which reached here in August, gave an effectual quietus.  The event was announced to the community by order of Gen. Mason, through a national salute from the fort; and hardly had the echoes died away among the hills, when its certainty sunk deep and firm into the convictions of all.  The result was a revulsion of feeling towards Mexico, which no repentant action on her part could ever overcome.  The native people felt that they had been sold, and expressed in no measured terms their indignation.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:They had no objections to the transfer of allegiance; but they scorned the <HI REND="italics">barter</HI>
009.sgm:, and denounced the treachery, as they termed it, which had put a <HI REND="italics">price</HI>
009.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, MARCH 11.  What crowds are rushIng out here for gold! what multitudes are leaving their distant homes for this glittering treasure!  Can gold warrant the hazards of the enterprise?  Can it compensate the toils and suffering which it imposes? Can it repair a shattered constitution, or bring back the exhilarating pulse and play of youth? Let the wrecks of those who have perished speak; let the broken hearts and hopes of thousands utter their admonition: their voices come surging over these pines, breaking from these cliffs, sighing in the winds, and knelling from the clouds.  Your treasures you must resign at the dark portal of the grave; there the glittering heap, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, MARCH 20.  The land.titles in California ought to receive the most indulgent construction. But few of them have <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
009.sgm: the forms prescribed by legislative enactments, but they have official insignia sufficient to certify the intentions of the government. To disturb these grants would be alike impolitic and unjust; it would be to convert the lands which they cover to the public domain, and ultimately turn them over to speculators and foreign capitalists.  Better let them remain as they are: they are now in good hands; they are held mostly by Californians,--a class of persons who part with them on reasonable terms. No Californian grinds the face of the poor, or refuses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:an emigrant a participation in his lands.  I have seen them dispose of miles for a consideration less than would be required by Americans for as many acres.  You are shut up to the shrewdness and sharpness of the Yankee on the one hand, and the liberality of the Californian on the other.  Your choice lies between the two, and I have no hesitation in saying, give me the Californian.  If he has a farm, and I have none, he will divide with me; but who ever heard of a Yankee splitting up his farm to accommodate emigrants? Why, he will not divide with his own sons till death has divided him from both. Yankees are good when mountains are to be levelled, lakes drained, and lightning converted into a vegetable manure; but as a landholder, deliver me from his map and maw  He wants not only all on this side of creation's verge, but a <HI REND="italics">leetle</HI>
009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, MARCH 28.  A young friend of mine had been several months in Monterey, confined to his room, and nearly helpless, from an ugly sore on one of his limbs.  The skill of the whole medical profession here, in the army and navy, and out of them, had been exerted in this case, and baffled.  At last, the discouraged patient sent for an old Indian woman, who has some reputation among the natives for medical sagacity in roots and herbs.  She examined the sore, and the next day brought to the patient a poultice and pot of tea.  The application was made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>This same Indian woman is the only physician I had when attacked with the disease which carried off Lieut. Miner and several others attached to the public service.  In a half-delirious state, which followed close upon the attack, I looked up and saw bending over me the kind Mrs. Hartnell--one of the noblest among the native ladies of California--and at her side stood this Indian woman feeling my pulse.  Mrs. H. remained, while her medical attendant went away, but returned soon with the Indian medicaments which were to arrest, or remedy this rapid and critical disease.  I resigned myself to all her drinks and baths; she did with me just what she pleased.  She broke the fever without breaking me; restored my strength, and in a week I was in my office, attending to my duties.  What she gave me I know not, but I believe her roots and herbs saved my life, as well as the leg of my friend.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, APRIL 7. The quail, or tufted partridge, abounds in California, and is a delicious bird.  A walk of ten minutes in any direction from Monterey, will bring you into their favorite haunts.  But they are extremely shy; it is no easy matter to strike then, on the wing: they are out of one bush and into another before you can level your piece, unless, like the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:Irishman hitting his weasel, you fire first and take aim afterwards.  I must attribute lily success frequently to hits of this kind; for a deliberate aim was sure to come too late,just like an old bachelor's proposal of marriage, which, as his vanity whispers him, might have been accepted had it been made a <HI REND="italics">little</HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, APRIL 17. That spirit of prophecy which sometimes trembles in an adieu, occurred forcibly to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:me on receiving the intelligence of the death of Com. Biddle.  His last words were omens, if such a thing may be.  He had ordered the Columbus to be ready f or sea the next morning, and had come ashore for a walk in the woods which skirt Monterey.  We had ascended the summit of a hill which commands a wide range of waving woods, gleaming meadows, and ocean's blue expanse.  The great orb of day was on the horizon, and the eye of the commodore was fastened upon it as it sunk in solemn majesty from sight. He had not spoken for several minutes; when, turning to me, he said--"This is my last walk among these hills, and something whispers me that all my walks end here."  This was said with that look and manner in which the undertone of a man's thoughts will sometimes find words without his will.  It was utterly at variance with the cool, philosophical habits which were eminently characteristic of the commodore, and which he seldom relinquished, except in some sally of humor and wit.  This remark woke like a slumber of the shroud, on the sudden intelligence of his death.  It may be a superstition, but I shall never resign, to a skeptical philosophy, the omen and its seeming fulfilment. The future is often prefigured in an incident or sentiment of the present.  <HI REND="blockindent">"An undefined and sudden thrill,<LB>That makes the heart a moment still--<LB>Than beat with quicker pulse, ashamed<LB>Of that strange sense itself had framed."<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<P>The hill-top and the waving forest remain, but the commodore--where is he?  Gone, like a star from its darkened watch-tower on high!  But the night which quenched the beam is still fringed with light.  To this surviving ray we turn in bereavement and grief. His genius lighted the objects of thought on which it touched, and glanced, with an intuitive force, through the subtle problems of the mind. His mental horizon was broad, and yet every object within its wide circle was distinctly seen, and seen in its true position and relative importance.  The trifling never rose into the great, and the majestic never became tame. Each stood, in his clear vision, as truth and reason had stamped it.  He was cool and collected without being stoical, and immovably firm without being arbitrary.  He had that courage which could never be shaken by surprise, made giddy with success, or quelled by disaster.  Whatever subject he assayed, he mastered.  He has left but few behind him, out of the legal profession, more thoroughly versed in questions of international law and maritime jurisprudence. Had not his early impulses taken him to the deck, he might have been eminent at the bar, in the cabinet, or hall of legislation.  He had all the clearness and comprehensiveness of a great statesman.  Gratitude twines this leaf of remembrance and respect into that chaplet which the bereavement of the service has woven on his grave.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII.  THE GOLD REGION.--ITS LOCALITY, NATURE AND EXTENT.--FOREIGNERS IN THE MINES.--THE INDIANS' DISCOVERY OF GOLD.--AGRICULTURAL CAPABILITIES OF CALIFORNIA.--SERVICES OF UNITED STATES OFFICERS.--FIRST DECISIVE MOVEMENT FOR THE ORGANIZATION OF CIVIL GOVERNMENT.--INTELLIGENCE OF THE DEATH OF GEN. KEARNY.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<HSEP><P>THURSDAY, APRIL 26.  The gold region, which contains deposits of sufficient richness to reward the labor of working them, is strongly defined by nature.  It lies along the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada--a mountain range running nearly parallel with the coast--and extends on these hills about five hundred miles north and south, by thirty or forty east and west.  From the slopes of the Sierra, a large number of streams issue, which cut their channels through these hills, and roll with greater or less volume to the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers.  The Sacramento rises in the north, and flowing south two hundred and fifty miles, empties itself into the Suisun, or upper bay of San Francisco.  The San Joaquin rises in the south, and flowing north two hundred miles, discharges itself into the same bay.  The source of the San Joaquin is a narrow lake lying still further south in that direction about eighty miles.<HSEP>The streams which break into these rivers from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The alluvial deposits of gold are confined mainly to the banks and bars of these mountain streams, and the channels of the gorges, which intersect them, and through which the streams are forced when swollen by the winter rains.  In the hills and table-lands, which occupy the intervals between these currents and gorges, no alluvial deposits have been found.  Here and there a few detached pieces have been discovered, forming an exception to some general law by which the uplands have been deprived of their surface treasures.  The conclusion at which I have arrived, after days and weeks of patient research, and a thousand inquiries made of others, is, that the alluvial deposits of gold in California are mainly confined to the banks and bars of her streams, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MONDAY, MAY 14.  Much has been said of the amounts of gold taken from the mines by Sonoranians, Chilians, and Peruvians, and carried out of the country.  As a general fact, this apprehension and alarm is without any sound basis.  Not one pound of gold in ten, gathered by these foreigners, is shipped off to their credit: it is spent in the country for provisions, clothing, and in the hazards of the gaming-table.  It falls into the hands of those who command the avenues of commerce, and ultimately reaches our own mints.  I have been in a camp of five hundred Sonoranians, who had not gold enough to buy a month's provisions--all had gone, through their improvident <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:habits, to the capacious pockets of the Americans.  To drive them out of California, or interdict their operations, is to abstract that amount of labor from the mines, and curtail proportionably the proceeds.  If gold, slumbering in the river banks and mountains of California, be more valuable to us than when stamped into eagles and incorporated into our national currency, then drive out the Sonoranians: but if you would have it <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
009.sgm: and not <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, MAY 22.  I was in possession of a fact which left no doubt of the existence of gold in the Stanislaus more than a year prior to its discovery on the American Fork.  A wild Indian had straggled into Monterey with a specimen, which he had hammered into a clasp for his bow. It fell into the hands of my secretary, W. R. Garner, who communicated the secret to me.  The Indian described the locality <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, MAY 24.  The capabilities of the soil of California for agricultural purposes involve a question of profound interest, and one which is not easily answered.  There are no experimental facts of sufficient scope to warrant a general conclusion.  Where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The lands on which cultivation has been attempted occupy a narrow space between the coast ranges and the sea; it seldom exceeds in width thirty miles, and is often reduced to ten by the obtrusion of some mountain spur.  East of this range no plough has ever travelled; no furrow has ever been turned in the long valley of the San Joaquin; and if the other sections of this valley correspond to those over which I passed, there can be very little encouragement for the introduction of husbandry.'  The soil is light and gravelly; the grass meagre and sparse; even the wild horses and elk seek its margin, as if afraid to trust themselves to the Sahara of its bosom.  Still, in some of its bays, the evidences of fertility exist, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The valley of the Sacramento has many localities of great fertility; but few of them, as yet, have been subjected to the plough and harrow; their adaptation to agriculture is inferred from their vigorous vegetation.  The same evidences of productive force cover several tracts north of San Francisco, on the Russian river, and in the vicinity of Sonoma.  But the most fertile lands in California, as yet developed, lie around the missions of Santa Clara and Santa Cruz, through the long narrow valleys of San Jos&eacute; and San Juan, along the margin of the Salinas, through the dells of San Louis Obispo, and in the vicinity of los Angeles.  These, and other insular Spots, may be made perfect gardens; but take California as a whole, she is not the country which agriculturists would select.  Her whole mining region is barren; nature rested there with what she put <HI REND="italics">beneath</HI>
009.sgm: the soil. You can hardly travel through it in midsummer without loading your mule down with provender to keep him alive.  The productive forces of such a state as New York, Ohio, or Pennsylvania, sweep immeasurably beyond the utmost capabilities of California.  It is the <HI REND="italics">golden</HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JUNE 12. At the return of Gen. Kearny, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The regiment of volunteers under Col. Stevenson arrived too late for any active participation in the war.  The insurrection had been suppressed, and the country was in the peaceful occupation of the Americans.  Still they were with great propriety retained in the service, and their presence at different points tended to discourage any attempts at revolutionary movements.  They were, many of them, youth who had not been reared under the most auspicious circumstances, and the adventures of a camp life were but little calculated to supply the defects of education. They gave the colonel and his officers some trouble, and the communities where they were stationed some solicitude.  But they are now in a condition, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, JUNE 16. The primary movements in California for the organization of a civil government had no connection with any instructions from Washington.  The first great meeting on the subject was held in Monterey in January, 1849.  At this meeting I was called upon to draft a preamble and resolutions, setting forth the condition of the country, the necessity of a civil organization, and providing for the election of proper delegates to a convention, to be held at San Jos&eacute; on the 27th of February, in which all the districts of the Territory were to be represented, and where a suitable constitution was to be framed. These resolutions were sent to all the principal towns, and adopted.  But upon more mature reflection, it was deemed expedient, in order to prevent any collision with the possible action of Congress, to postpone the assembling of the convention to the first of May, that the proceedings of that body might be known.  This is the true history of those primary and decisive measures which have resulted in that noble constitution which now throws its sacred &aelig;gis over California.  The friends of the last and present administration, instead of contending for the honor of an active participation in the origin and progress of this instrument, deftly box back and forth the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, JUNE 20. The causes which exclude slavery from California lie within a nut-shell.  All here are diggers, and free white diggers wont dig with slaves.  They know they must dig themselves: they have come out here for that purpose, and they wont degrade their calling by associating it with slave-labor: self-preservation is the first law of nature.  They have nothing to do with slavery in the abstract, or as it exists in other communities; not one in ten cares a button for its abolition, nor the Wilmot proviso either: all they look at is their own position; they must themselves swing the pick, and they wont swing it by the side of negro slaves.  That is their feeling, their determination, and the upshot of the whole business.  An army of half a million, backed by the resources of the United States, could not shake their purpose.  Of all men with whom I have ever met, the most firm, resolute, and indomitable, are the emigrants into California.  They feel that they have got into a new world, where they have a right to shape and settle things in their own way.  No mandate, unless <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:it comes like a thunder-bolt straight out of heaven, is regarded. They may offer to come into the Union, but they consider it an act of condescension, like that of Queen Victoria in her nuptials with Prince Albert. They walk over hills treasured with the precious ores; they dwell by streams paved with gold; while every mountain around soars into the heaven, circled with a diadem richer than that which threw its halo on the seven hills of Rome.  Al] these belong to them; they walk in their midst; they feel their presence and power, and partake of their grandeur. Think you that such men will consent to swing the pick by the side of slaves? Never! while the stream owns its source, or the mountain its base.  You may call it pride, or what you will, but <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
009.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, JUNE 26.  The intelligence of the death of Gen. Kearny has been received here with many expressions of affectionate remembrance.  During his brief sojourn in California, his considerate disposition, his amiable deportment and generous policy, had endeared him to the citizens.  They saw in him nothing of the ruthless invader, but an intelligent, humane general, largely endowed with a spirit of forbearance and fraternal regard.  The conflict which arrested his progress at Pasquel, and the disaster in which so many of his brave men sunk overpowered, were contemplated, by the more considerate of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:inhabitants, rather with a sentiment of regret than an air of triumph.  They seemed to regard these events as a waste of life-as a reckless resistance on their part, which, if successful for a time, could only have the effect to continue, for a brief period, the sway of leaders in whose prudence and patriotism they had no confidence.  They took leave of him with regret, and have received the tidings of his death with sympathy and sorrow.  It is not for me to write his eulogy; it is graven on the hearts of all who knew him.  His star set without a cloud; but its light lingers still: when all the watch-fires of the tented field have gone out, a faithful ray will still light the shrine which affection and bereavement have reared to his worth.  <HI REND="blockindent">"Still o'er the past warm memory wakes,<LB>And fondly broods with miser-care;<LB>Time but the impression deeper makes,<LB>As streams their channels deeper wear."<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<illus entity="a009-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Jacob R. Snyder</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII.  RIDE OF COL. FREMONT FROM LOS ANGELES TO MONTEREY AND BACK.--CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.--THE RINCON.--SKELETONS OF DEAD HORSES.--A STAMPEDE.--GRAY BEARS.--THE RETURN.--THE TWO HORSES RODE BY COL. FREMONT.--AN EXPERIMENT.--THE RESULT.--CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CALIFORNIA HORSE.--FOSSIL REMAINS.--THE TWO CLASSES OF EMIGRANTS.--LIFE IN CALIFORNIA.--HEADS AGAINST TAILS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>THE ride of Col. Fremont in March, 1847, from the ciudad de los Angeles to Monterey in Alta California--a distance of four hundred and twenty miles--and back, exhibits in a strong light the iron nerve of the rider, and the capacities of the California horse. The party on this occasion, consisted of the colonel, his friend Don Jes&uacute;se Pico, and his servant Jacob Dodson.  Each had three horses, nine in all, to take their turn under the saddle, and relieve each other every twenty miles; while the six loose horses galloped ahead, requiring constant vigilance and action to keep them on the path.  The relays were brought under the saddle by the lasso, thrown by Don Jes&uacute;se or Jacob, who, though born and raised in Washington, in his long expeditions with Col. Fremont, had become expert as a Mexican with the lasso, sure as a mountaineer with the rifle, equal to either on horse or foot, and always a lad of courage and fidelity.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>The party left los Angeles on the morning of the 22d, at daybreak, though the call which took tile colonel to Monterey, had reached him only the evening before.  Their path lay through the wild mountains of San Fernando, where the steep ridge and precipitous glen follow each other like the deep hollows and crested waves of ocean, under the driving force of the storm.  It was a relief when a rough ravine opened its winding gallery on the line of their path.  They reached at length the maritime defile of El Rincon, or Punto Gordo, where a mountain bluff shoulders its way boldly to the sea, leaving for fifteen miles only a narrow line of broken coast, lashed at high tide, and in the gale, by the framing surf.  The sun was on the wave of the Pacific, when they issued from the Rincon; and twilight still lingered when they reached the hospitable rancho of Don Thomas Robbins--one hundred and twenty-five miles from los Angeles.  The only limb in the company which seemed to complain of fatigue was the right arm of Jacob, incessantly exercised in lashing the loose horses to the track, and lassoing the relays.  None of the horses were shod-an iron contrivance unknown here, except among a few Americans.  The gait through the day had been a hand-gallop, relieved at short intervals by a light trot.  Here the party rested for the night, while the horses gathered their food from the young grass which spread its tender verdure on the field.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Another morning had thrown its splendors on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>The arrival of Col. Fremont having got wind, the rancheros of San Luis were on an early stir, determined to detain him.  All crowded to his quarters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:with their gratulations, and the tender of a splendid entertainment, but his time was too pressing: still escape was impossible, till a sumptuous breakfast had been served, and popular enthusiasm had expressed its warm regard.  This gratitude and esteem were the result of that humane construction of military law, which had spared the forfeited lives of the leaders in the recent insurrectionary war.  It was eleven o'clock in the morning before the colonel and his attendants were in the saddle.  Their tired horses had been left, and eight fresh ones taken in their places, while their party had been increased by the addition of a California boy, in the capacity of vaquero. Their path still lay through a wild broken country, where primeval forests frowned, and the mountain torrent dashed the tide of its strength.  At eight in the evening they reached the gloomy base of the steep range which guards the head waters of the Salinas or Benaventura, seventy miles from San Luis. Here Don Jes&uacute;se, who had been up the greater part of the night previous, with his family and friends, proposed a few hours rest.  As the place was the favorite haunt of marauding Indians, the party for safety during their repose, turned off the track, which ran nearer the coast than the usual rout, and issuing through a canada into a thick wood, rolled down in their serapes, with their saddles for their pillows, while their horses were put to grass at a short distance, with the Spanish boy in the saddle to keep watch.  Sleep once commenced, was too sweet to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:easily given up; midnight had passed when the party were roused from their slum hers by an <HI REND="italics">estampedo</HI>
009.sgm: among their horses, and the loud calls of the watch boy.  The cause of the alarm proved not to be Indians, but gray bears, which infest this wild pass.  It was here that Col. Fremont with thirty-five of his men, in the summer preceding, fell in with several large bands of these ferocious fellows, who appeared to have posted themselves here to dispute the path. An attack was ordered, and thirteen of their grim file were left dead on the field.  Such is their acknowledged strength and towering rage, when assaulted, the bravest hunters, when outnumbered, generally give them a wide berth.  When it was discovered that they had occasioned this midnight stampede, the first impulse was to attack them; but Don Jes&uacute;se, who understood their habits and weak points, discouraged the idea, stating that "people <HI REND="italics">gente</HI>
009.sgm:<P>The principal citizens of Monterey, as soon as the arrival of Col. Fremont was announced, assembled at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:the office of the alcalde, and passed resolutions inviting him to a public dinner; but the urgency of his immediate return obliged him to forego the proffered honor.  At four o'clock in the afternoon of the day succeeding that of their arrival, the party were ready to start on their return.  The two horses rode by the colonel from San Luis Obispo, were a present to him from Don Jes&uacute;se, who now desired him to make al, experiment with the abilities of one of them.  They were brothers, one a year younger than the other, both the same color-cinnamon-and hence called <HI REND="italics">el canelo</HI>
009.sgm:<P>/it>.  The elder was taken for the trial, and lead off gallantly as the party struck the plain which stretches towards the Salinas.  A more graceful horse, and one more deftly mounted, I have never seen.  The eyes of the gathered crowd followed them till they disappeared in the shadows of the distant hills.  Forty miles on the hand-gallop, and they camped for the night.  Another day dawned, and the elder canelo was again under the saddle of Col. Fremont, and for ninety miles carried him without change, and without apparent fatigue.  It was still thirty miles to San Luis, where they were to pass the night, and Don Jes&uacute;se insisted that canelo could easily perform it, and so said the horse in his spirited look and action.  But the colonel would not put him to the trial; and shifting the saddle to the younger brother, the elder was turned loose to run the remaining thirty mile  without a rider.  He immediately took the lead, and kept it the whole distance, entering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>After a detention of half a day at San Luis Obispo by a rain-storm, the party resumed the horses they had left there, and which took them back to los Angeles in the same time they had brought them up. Thus making their five hundred miles each in four days, with the interval of repose occupied in the ride from San Luis to Monterey and back.  In this whole journey from los Angeles to Monterey and back--making eight hundred and forty miles--the party had actually but one relay of fresh horses; the time on the road was about seventy-six hours.  The path through the entire route lies through a wild broken country, over ridges, down gorges, around bluffs, and through gloomy defiles, where a traveller, unused to these mountains, would often deem even the slow trot impracticable.  The only food which the horses had, except a few quarts of barley at Monterey, was the grass on the road; though the trained and domesticated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MARINE REMAINS.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The hills around Monterey are full of marine Shells. You can turn them out wherever you drive your spade into the ground.  The Indians dig and burn them for lime, which is used ill whitewashing the adobe walls of houses, and which makes them glimmer in the sun like banks of freshly-driven snow.  It has not sufficient strength foil the mason, but no other was in use when we landed at Monterey.  The first regular lime-kiln was burnt by me for the town-hall.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:I found the stone about ten miles from Monterey, and the lime it produced of a superior quality. When the lime, hair, lath, and sand were brought together, no little curiosity was awakened by the heterogeneous mass, and the admiration was equally apparent when each took its place and performed its part in the plaster and hard finish of the wall and ceiling.  Thousands came to see the work; it was the lion of the day.  But the curiosity of the geologist would turn from this to the fossil oyster-shells in the hills; and when he has exhausted those on the coast, let him turn inland, and he will find on the mountains, two hundred miles from the sea, and on elevations of a thousand feet, the same marine productions; and not only these, but the skeleton of a whale almost entire. How came that monster up there, high and dry, glimmering like the pale skeleton of a huge cloud between us and the moon?  Did the central fire which threw up the mountain ridge, throw him up on its crest? How astonished he must have been to find himself up there, blowing off steam among volcanoes and comets!  Now let our <HI REND="italics">savans</HI>
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009.sgm:<P>THE TWO CLASSES OF EMIGRANTS.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The emigrants to California are composed of two classes--those who come to live by their wits, and those who come to accumulate by their work.  The wit capitalists will find dupes for a time--small fish in shallow waters--but a huge roller will soon heave them all high and dry!  This is the last Country to which a man should come, who is above or beneath the exercise of his muscles.  Every object he meets addresses him in the admonitory language which gleams in the motto of the Arkansas bowie-knife--"root, hog, or die."  But then he has this encouragement: he can root almost anywhere, but <HI REND="italics">root he</HI>
009.sgm: must.  They who come relying on their physical forces, and who are largely endowed with the organs of perseverance, will Succeed.  But if they stay too long in San Francisco, their enthusiasm will have an ague-fit, and their golden dream turn to sleet and hail. They should hasten through and dash at once into their scene of labor; nor should they expect success without corresponding efforts; if fortune favors them to-day, she will disappoint them to-morrow; her favors and frowns fall with marvellous Caprice; the digger must be above the one and independent of the other; he must rely upon his own resources; and upon his fidelity to one unchanged and unchangeable purpose.  He comes here to get gold, not in pounds or ounces, but in grains; his most instructive lesson will be by the side of the ant-hill.  There he sees a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:little industrious fellow, foregoing the pastimes of other insects, and bringing another grain to his heap; working on with right good heart through the day, and sometimes taking advantage of the moon, and plying his task through the luminous night.  Let him watch that ant, and go and do likewise, if he would return from California with a fortune.  I don't recommend him to come here and convert himself into a pismire for gold; but if he <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
009.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA ON CHARACTER.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Life in California impresses new features on old characters, as a fresh mintage on antiquated coins. The man whose prudence in the States never forsakes him, and whose practical maxim is, "a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush," will <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
009.sgm: throw all his birds into the bushes, seemingly for the mere excitement of catching them again.  He finds himself in an atmosphere so strongly stirred and stirring, that he must whirl with it, and soon enjoys the strong eddy almost as much as the still pool.  He may hang perhaps a moment on the verge of a cataract, but if it spreads below to a tranquil lake, down he goes, and emerges from the boiling gulf calm and confident as if lord of the glittering trident.  Or he may have been, while in the States, remarked for his parsimony, pinching every cent as it dropped into the contribution-box as if there was a spasm between his avarice and aims.  But in California that cent so awfully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>HEADS AND TAILS.</P>
009.sgm:<P>My friend William Blackburn, alcalde of Santa Cruz, often hits upon a method of punishing a transgressor, which has some claims to originality as well as justice.  A young man was brought before him, charged with having sheared, close to the stump, the sweeping tail of another's horse.  The evidence of the nefarious act, and of the prisoner's guilt, was conclusive.  The alcalde sent for a barber, ordered the offender to be seated, and directed the tonsor to shear and shave him clean of his dark flowing locks and curling moustache, in which his pride and vanity lay.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:This was hardly done, when Mr. B, counsel for the prisoner entered, and moved an arrest of judgment. "Oh, yes," said the alcalde, "as the shears and razor have done their work, judgment may now rest." "And under what law," inquired the learned counsel, "has this penalty been inflicted?"  "Under the Mosaic," replied the alcalde: "that good old rule--eye for eye, tooth for tooth, hair for hair."  "But," said the biblical jurist, " <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
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009.sgm:<P>SPANISH COURTESIES.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The courtesies characteristic of the Spanish linger in California, and see,n, as you encounter them amid the less observant habits of the emigration, like golden-tinted leaves of Autumn, still trembling on their stems in the rushing verdure of Spring.  They exhibit themselves in every phase of society and every walk of life.  You encounter them in the church, in the fandango, at the bridal altar, and the hearse: they adorn youth, and take from age its chilling severity. They are trifles in themselves, but they refine social intercourse, and soften its alienations.  They may seem to verge upon extremes, but even then they carry some sentiment with them, some sign of deference to humanity.  I received a cluster of wild-flowers from a lady, with a note in pure Castilian, and bearing in the subscription the initials of the words, which rudely translated mean, "I kiss your hand."  One might have felt tempted to write her back-- <HI REND="blockindent">Thou need'st not, lady, stoop so low<LB>To print the gentle kiss:<LB>Can hands return what lips bestow,<LB>Or blush to show their bliss?<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX.  THE TRAGEDY AT SAN MIGUEL.--COURT AND CULPRITS.--AGE AND CIRCUMSTANCES OF THOSE WHO SHOULD COME TO CALIFORNIA.--CONDITION OF THE PROFESSIONS.--THE WRONGS OF CALIFORNIA.--CLAIMS  ON THE CHRISTIAN COMMUNITY.--JOURNALISTS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>RETRIBUTION follows fast on the heels of crime in California.  Two persons, a Hessian and Irishman, whom I had met in the Stanislaus, left the mines for the seaboard.  On their way to Stockton, they fell in with two miners asleep under a tree, whom they murdered and robbed of their gold; with this booty they hastened across the valley of the San Joaquin, and skirting the mountains to avoid all frequented paths, held their course south to La Solidad.  Here they fell in with three deserters from the Pacific squadron, who joined them, and the whole party proceeded south to San Miguel, where they quartered themselves for the night On the hospitality of Mr. Reade, an English ranchero of respectability and wealth.  In the morning they took their departure, but had proceeded only a short distance, when it was agreed they should return and rob their host. During the ensuing night they rose on the household, consisting of Mr. Reade, his wife, and three children, a kinswoman with four children, and two Indian domestics, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>392</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:and murdered the whole!  Having rifled the money-chest of a large amount of gold dust, the blood-stained party renewed their flight south, and had reached a secluded cove in a bend of the sea, below Santa Barbara, where they were overtaken by a band of citizens, who had tracked them from the neighborhood of San Miguel.  The fugitives were armed, and avowed their determination to shoot down any person who should attempt to apprehend them.  The citizens, though few, and badly provided with weapons, were resolute and determined. A desperate conflict ensued, in which one of the felons was shot dead; another, having discharged the last barrel of his revolver, jumped into the sea and was drowned; the remaining three were at length disarmed and secured. Of the citizens several were wounded, and one-the father of a beloved family-lay a corpse!  The next morning, as there was no alcalde in the vicinity, the three prisoners were brought before a temporary court organized for the purpose, wherein twelve good and lawful men took oath to render judgment according to conscience. Each person when brought to the bar told his own story, inextricably involving his associates in the guilt of deliberate murder, and who, in their turn, wove the same terrible web about him. Of their guilt, though convicted without the testimony of an impartial witness, no doubt remained to disturb the convictions of the court.  They were sentenced to death, and before the sun went down were in their graves!  The whole five were buried among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WHO SHOULD STAY AND WHO COME.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The indiscretion with which so many thousands are rushing to California will be a source of regret to them, and of sorrow to their friends.  Not one in twenty will bring back a fortune, and not more than one in ten secure the means of defraying the expenses of his return.  I speak now of those whose plans and efforts are confined to the mines, and who rely on the proceeds of their manual labor: when they have defrayed the expenses incident to their position, liquid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:dated all demands for food, clothing, and implements for the year, their yellow heap will dwindle to a point. This might serve as the nucleus of operations which are to extend through a series of years; but as the result of the enterprise, involving privation and hard. ship, is a failure, no man should come to California under the impression that he can in a few months pick a fortune out of its mines.  He may here and there light on a more productive deposit, but the chances are a hundred to one that his gains will be slenderly and laboriously acquired.  He is made giddy with the reports of sudden wealth; these are the rare <HI REND="italics">prizes</HI>
009.sgm:, while the silence of the grave hangs over the multitudinous <HI REND="italics">blanks</HI>
009.sgm:<P>A young man endowed with a vigorous constitution, and who possesses sterling habits of sobriety and application, and who has no dependencies at home can do well in California.  But he should come with the resolute purpose of remaining here eight Or ten years, and with a spirit that can throw its unrelaxed energies into any enterprise which the progress of the country may develop.  He must identify himself for the time being with all the great interests which absorb attention, and quicken labor. If he has not the enterprise and force of purpose which this requires, he should remain at home.  There is another class of persons whom domestic obligations and motives of prudence should dissuade from a California adventure.  It is blind folly in a man, who has a family dependent on him for a support, to exhaust <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>395</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:the little means, which previous industry and frugality have left, in defraying the expenses of a passage here, with the vague hope that in a year or two he can return with an ample competence.  I respect his feelings and motives, but honorable intentions cannot save him from disappointment.  When the expenses which the most rigid economy could not avoid have been paid, and the obligations connected with the support of his family at home have been discharged, the results of his enterprise will leave him poor.  He may never tell you of broken hopes and a shattered constitution, but his hearth-stone is strewn with their pale, admonitory fragments.  Let me persuade those whom God has blessed with a faithful wife and interesting family, not to abandon these objects of affection for the gold mines of California.  Do not come out here under the delusive belief that you can in a few months, or a brief year, on the proceeds of the mattock and bowl, accumulate a fortune.  This has rarely if ever been done, even where the deposits were first disturbed by the more fortunate adventurer.  If it could not be done in the green tree, what are you to expect in the dry?  If when the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
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009.sgm:<P>THE PROFESSIONS AND PURSUITS.</P>
009.sgm:<P>All the secular professions and more privileged or prescribed pursuits in California are crowded to over-flowing.  Physicians are without patients; lawyers without clients; surveyors without lands; hydrographers without harbors; actors without audiences; painters without pupils; financiers without funds; minters without metals; printers without presses hunters without hounds, and fiddlers without fools. And all these must take to the plough, the pickaxe, and spade.  Even California, with all her treasured hills and streams, fell under that primal malediction which threw its death-shade on the infant world.  It is as true here as among the granite rocks of New England--in the sweat of thy face shalt thou eat bread.  Let none think to escape this labor-destiny here; it environs the globe, and binds every nation and tribe in its inexorable folds.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The merchant, whose shrewdness avails him everywhere else, will often be wrecked here.  The markets of a single month have all the phases of its fickle moon.  The slender crescent waxes into the circle; and the full orb passes under a total eclipse.  The man that figured on its front is gone, and with him the hopes of the millionaire.  The bullfrog in his croaking pond, and the owl in his hooting tree, remain; but the speculator, like a ghost at the glimmer of day, hath fled.  You can only dimly remember the phantom's shape and where he walked, and half doubt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WRONGS OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The neglect and wrongs of California will yet find a tongue.  From the day the United States flag was raised in this country, she has been the victim of the most unrelenting oppression.  Her farmers were robbed of their stock to meet the exigences of war; and her emigrants forced into the field to maintain the conquest.  Through the exactions of the custom-house the comforts and necessaries of life were oppressively taxed.  No article of food or raiment could escape this forced contribution; it reached the plough of the farmer, the anvil of the smith; the blanket that protected your person, the salt that seasoned your food, the shingle that roofed your cabin, and the nail that bound your coffin.  Even the light of heaven paid its contribution in its windowed tariff And who were the persons on whom these extortions fell?  Citizens whom the government had promised to relieve of taxation, and emigrants who had exhausted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>398</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>Nor does this gross injustice stop here: this oppressive tax was enforced at a time when there was but little specie in the country; the whole circulating medium was absorbed in its unrighteous demands. Nor was the case materially relieved by the discovery of gold; this precious ore was extorted at ten dollars the ounce, and forfeited at that arbitrary valuation if not redeemed within a given time.  There was no specie by which it could be redeemed, and it went to the clutches of the government at ten dollars, when its real value at our mints is eighteen dollars. If this be not robbery, will some one define what that word means?  It was worse than robbery-it was SwIndling under the color of law.  All this has been carried on against a community without a representation in our national legislature, and without any civil benefits in return.  Not even a light-house rose to relieve its onerous injustice.  Hundreds of thousands, not to say millions thus extorted, are now locked up in the sub-treasury chest at San Francisco.  Every doubloon, dollar, and dime that reaches the country is forced under that inexorable key.  In this absorption of the circulating medium, commercial loans can be effected only on ruinous rates of interest, and the civil government itself is bankrupt.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>Every dollar of these ill-gotten gains should be placed forthwith at the disposal of the state of California.  It belongs to her; it never was the property of the United States under any law of Congress.  It has been exacted under executive circulars, under the naked dictates of arbitrary power.  I blame not the revenue functionaries of the general government in California; they were bound by the orders and instructions which they received; the responsibility rests nearer home: it rests with those who have usurped and exercised powers not conferred by the Constitution, or the consent of the American people. Nor do these aggressions and wrongs stop here. Who has authorized a captain of U. S. dragoons to drive, at the point of his flashing glaive, peaceful citizens from their gardens and dwellings on the bay of San Francisco, under the pretext Of a government reservation, and then to farm out those grounds under a ten years' lease?  Who has conferred this impudent stretch of authority, and this private monopoly of the public domain?  Let the citizens thus trampled upon maintain their right, even with their rifles, till they can be made the proper subjects of judicial investigation or legislative action.</P>
009.sgm:<P>CLAIMS ON THE CHRISTIAN.</P>
009.sgm:<P>With the Christian community California has higher claims than those which glitter in her mines.  The moral elements which now drift over her Streams and treasured rocks will ere long settle down into abiding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:forms.  The impalpable will become the real, and the unsubstantial assume a local habitation and a name. Shall these permanent shapes, into which society is to be cast, take their plastic features from the impress of blind accident and skeptical apathy, or the moulding hand of religion?  These primal forms must remain and wear for ages the traces of their deformity or beauty, their guilty insignificance or moral grandeur.  Through them circulates your own lifeblood; in them is bound up the hopes of an empire. Not only the destiny of California is suspended on the issue, but the fate of all the republics which cheer the shores of the Pacific.  The same treason to religion which wrecks the institutions of this country, will sap the foundations of a thousand other glorified shrines.  It is for you, Christian brethren, to prevent such a disaster; it is for you to pour into California an unremitted tide of holy light.  The Bible must throw its sacred radiance around every hearth, over every stream, through every mountain glen.  The voice of the heralds of heavenly love must be echoed from every cliff and chasm and forest sanctuary. On you devolves this mission of Christian fidelity. It is for your faith and philanthropy to say what California shall be when her swelling population shall burst the bounds of her domain.  You can write her hopes in ashes, or stars that shall never set.  Every school-book and Bible you throw among her hills will be a source of penetrating and pervading light, when the torch of the caverned miner has gone out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PROPHETIC SHADOWS AND JOURNALISTS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>Coming events cast their shadows before.  When Com. Jones, several years since, captured Monterey, no political seer discovered in the event the precursor of an actual, permanent possession.  No flag waved on the horoscope save the Mexican; no thunder broke on the ear of the augur, except what disturbed the wrong quarter of the heaven; and even the birds, which carried the fate of nations in their sounding beaks, flew in a wrong direction.  But the first occupation, though it came and went as a shadow, was an omen, which has now become a reality--a great eventful <HI REND="italics">fact</HI>
009.sgm:<P>There are a multitude of topics connected with the wild life and new condition of affairs in California, which must escape the pen of any one journalist. Some of them are touched with vivid force in the graphic pictures of "El Dorado," others are sketched with lively effect in the pages of "Los Gringos," while California as she was, before gold had cankered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX.<LB>THE GOLD-BEARING QUARTZ.--THEIR LOCALITY.--RICHNESS AND EXTENT.--SPECIMENS AND DOUBTFUL CONCLUSIONS.--THE SUITABLE MACHINERY TO BE USED IN THE MOUNTAINS.--THE COURT OF ADMIRALTY AT MONTEREY.--ITS ORGANIZATION AND JURISDICTION.--THE CASES DETERMINED.--SALE OF THE PRIZES.--CONVENTION AND CONSTITUTION OF CALIFORNIA.--DIFFICULTIES AND COMPROMISES.--SPIRIT OF THE INSTRUMENT.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>THE surface gold in California will in a few years be measurably exhausted; the occasional discovery of new deposits cannot long postpone such a result; nor will it be delayed for any great number of years, by any more scientific and thorough method of securing the treasure.  California will prove no exception in these respects to other sections of the globe where surface gold has been found.  The great question is, will her mountains be exhausted with her streams and valleys?  Will her rock gold give out with her alluvial deposits?  The gold-bearing quartz is the sheet-anchor at which the whole argosy rides; if this parts, your golden craft goes to fragments.</P>
009.sgm:<P>When an old Sonoranian told me in the mines that the quartz <HI REND="italics">swetted</HI>
009.sgm: out the gold, all the young savans around laughed at the old man's stupidity; and I must say the <HI REND="italics">perspiration</HI>
009.sgm: part of the business rather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:staggered my credulity, which has some compass, where there are no laws to guide one.  But the old digger was nearer the truth than many who have more felicitous terms in which to express their theories. Though the gold may not ooze from the quartz as water drips from a rock, yet it is <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
009.sgm:<P>The gold rocks of Georgia and Virginia yield, on an average, less than half a cent to the pound, and yet the profits are sufficient to justify deep mining. What then must be the profits of working a rock which lies near the surface, and which yields over a dollar to the pound!  The result staggers credulity; and we seek a refuge from the weakness of faith in the more reasonable persuasion, that the specimens tested are richer than the average of the veins and quarries which remain.  And yet the poorest specimen, which the casual blow of the sledge has knocked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>When a simple swain saw a necromancer break a cocoanut shell and let fly half a dozen canary birds, he remarked, there was no doubt the young birds were hatched in the cocoanut; but what puzzled him was, to know how the old bird could get in to lay the eggs.  But a deeper puzzle with me is, that each and every cocoanut on this California tree, should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>But I would send out no machinery which should have a piece in it weighing over seventy or eighty pounds: no other can be taken through the gorges, and over the acclivities to the lofty steeps where the quartz exists.  The machinery which can be readily taken to the mines in Virginia, would cost a fortune in its transportation to the proper localities in California.  The heaviest capitalist would find himself swamped before he got to work.  Every piece must be taken over elevations where a man can hardly draw himself up, and where his life is often suspended on the strength of the fibres which twine the bush to the fissures of the rock.  It should be so light as to render its removal to any new and more productive locality practicable, without involving a ruinous expense.  A machine wielding the force of one man, and stamping on the spot, will be more productive than a forty-horse power working at a distance.  All the transportation must be done by hand, for no animal can subsist among the steeps where the quartz prevail. Watch the eagle as he soars to his high cliff with a writhing snake in his beak, and then seize your light machinery and pursue his track.  But, chained to a heavy engine, you would make about as much progress as that mountain bird with his talons driven into the back of a mastodon or whale.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>COURT OF ADMIRALTY.</P>
009.sgm:<P>There were seven prize cases introduced into the court of admiralty at Monterey, on which condemnation and sale of the property libelled ensued.  They were all clearly cases of legal capture, and came under the well-established rule of international law, that the hostile character attaches to the commerce of the neutral domiciled in the enemy'S country.  This rule is enforced by every consideration of Sound policy and national justice.  If the flag of the neutral can protect the property over which it waves, the entire commerce of the belligerent might assume this neutral garb, and be as safe in time of war as peace. To prevent such an abuse, the comity of nations has conceded the general principle, that all commerce flowing to or emanating from a mercantile house, established in the enemy's country, shall be deemed hostile, and be held liable to seizure.</P>
009.sgm:<P>A much more difficult question arose connected with the competency of the court.  Its organization arose out of the exigences of war; the alternative lay between a recognition of its jurisdiction, and the extreme right of the belligerent to burn and sink his captures.  Congress, in a declaration of war, virtually invests the executive with authority to prosecute it, and secure the ends for which it has been waged.  He is necessarily entrusted with extraordinary discretion and corresponding powers; when, in the due prosecution of these measures, he finds himself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Nor is there any thing in such judicial proceedings which trenches upon the laws of nations; these laws never assume the right to define the powers vested in the executive of a realm.  They claim no authority to bring into court the constitutional prerogatives of a prince or of the president of a republic; these are questions which appertain to the forms of government where the acts originate, where the power is exercised and which must be disposed of as the wisdom of the nation may deem proper.  It is enough that nations law allows the captor at his peril to burn or sink his prize.  Any executive measure to prevent such a precipitate result, and to subject the legality of the capture to the forms of a judicial investigation is in accordance with every dictate of moral justice, and that strong sense of right which binds every civilized nation in a period of war as well as peace.  Nor can the captor, from a want of jurisdiction in the court that determines his case, lose his prize.  All the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:claimant can do is to require him to appear before a court of competent authority, where the case must be examined and decided <HI REND="italics">de novo</HI>
009.sgm:<P>It devolved on the court at Monterey not only to determine the prize cases submitted, but to assume an onerous responsibility in the disposal of the property libelled and condemned.  The cargo of one of these prizes consisted of a large amount of cotton, paper, and iron, destined to a Mexican market, and for which there was no adequate demand in California. The highest cash bid that could be procured at a sale duly notified, was $34,000.  To this bid the property must be knocked down, or surrendered to a credit bid of $60,000, involving conditions for the benefit of the purchaser wholly inadmissible in law.  In this perplexity I bid the ship and cargo in; placed a faithful, competent agent and crew on board, and sent the whole to Mazatlan, which had become a port of entry. The result was, that after discharging all claims existing against the property, I paid over to the Secretary of the Navy, as the net proceeds of the sales, the sum of $68,000, and stand credited with that amount on the books of the department.  But this is rather a matter of personal service than a topic of public interest; it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>CONSTITUTION OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The desires of the people of California for a civil government, suited to their new condition, at length found utterance at the ballot-box.  The best informed and most sedate of her citizens were elected in their several districts, and commissioned to proceed to Monterey, for the purpose of drafting in concert the provisions of a constitution.  Never were interests, habits, and associations more diverse than those represented in this body.  Unanimity could be reached only through the largest concessions.  It was the conquerors and the conquered, the conservatives and the progressives; they who owned the lands, and they who worked the mines, assembling to frame organic laws which should equally secure and bind the interests of all.  No cloud ever cast its shadow on equal incongruities grouped in cliffs and chasms, pinnacles and precipices, without having it broken into a thousand fragments.  But the honest and patriotic purpose which animated the convention, raised that body above all national prejudice and local interests, and poured its spirit in blending power over its measures.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>This constitution is thoroughly democratic; no prescriptive privileges, or invidious distinctions are recognized; the interests of the great mass fill every provision.  Political and social equality are its bases, while the rights of private judgment and individual conscience flow untrammelled through its spirit.  It is the embodiment of the American mind, throwing its convictions, impulses, and aspirations into a tangible, permanent shape. It is the creed of the thousands who wield the plough, the plane, the hammer, the trowel, and spade.  It is the palladium of freedom, rolled in from the seaboard, and down from the mountains, and which has caught its echoes from every river, steep, and valley.  It is the fraternal oath of a great people, uttered in the presence of God and the hearing of nations.  Millions will turn their eyes to the fulfilment of its promises, when time and disaster have engulfed the monuments of their own splendor and strength.</P>
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009.sgm:<P>The 13th of October, 1849, will never fade from the annals of California.  It was not the sun, circling up into a broad and brilliant heaven, that gave this morn its brightness: it was not the thunder of the Pacific on the sea-beaten strand, that gave the day its impressive force: it was not the long heavy roll of the artillery that most signalized the hour; nor the harmony of the winds rolling their anthems from the steep forests that stirred most strongly the human heart.  It was the silent signatures of the members of the convention to the constitution, which had been confided to their wisdom and patriotic fidelity.  It was this last crowning act in an eventful moral enterprise, having its source in the exigences of a great community.  I wonder not the old pioneer of the Sacramento pronounced it the greatest day of his life; I wonder not that the veteran "Hero of Contreras" forgot the laurels gathered on that field of fame, in the higher and nobler honors showered upon him in this day's achievements.  It was his steady purpose and fearless responsibility that threw into organized forms and practical results, the plans and purposes of the people of California.  He will find his reward in the happiness and prosperity of a great state, over which the flag of the Union shall never cease to wave.  The tide of Anglo-Saxon blood stops not here; it is to circulate on other shores, continents, and isles; its progress is blent with the steady triumphs of commerce, art, civilization, and religion. It will yet flow the globe round, and beat in every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<illus entity="a009-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DECLARATION OF RIGHTS IN THE CONSTITUTION OF CALIFORNIA, AND THE SIGNATURES OF THE CONVENTION</P>
009.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>I regret my limits will not permit me to follow the Pacific squadron, under the command of Com. Shubrick, to the Mexican coast.  The capture and occupation of Mazatlan has hardly stirred a whisper in the trump of fame, which has Poured out such strains on the other side of the continent.  And yet this achievement of the commodore had in it a spirit of wisdom, resolution, and firmness that might emblazon a much loftier page than mine.  When the history of the Mexican war shall be written, and the services of those who shared in its hardships and perils be duly recognized, Com. Shubrick, with the gallant officers and brave men attached to his command, will receive a lasting meed of merited renown. It is now silently written in that international compact which terminated the apprehension, of one republic and sealed the triumphs of another.  It was the waving of the stars and stripes on the strand of the Pacific which left a forlorn hope without a refuge, and coerced the terms of an honorable peace; and long may that peace remain unbroken by the monster of discord and war.</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI.  GLANCES AT TOWnS SPRUNG AND SPRINGING.--SAN FRANCISCO.--BENICIA. --SACRAMENTO CITY.--SUTTER.--VERNON.--BOSTON.--STOCKTON.-NEW YORK-ALVEZO.--STANISLAUS.--SONORA.--CRESCENT CITY.-TRINIDAD.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>THE growth of towns in California is so rapid, that before you can sketch the last, a new one has sprung into existence.  You go to work on this, and dash down a few features, when another glimmers on your vision, till at last you become like the English surgeon at the battle of Waterloo; who began by bandaging individuals, but found the wounded brought in so fast he declared he must splinter by the regiment.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO.--This town has thrice been laid in ashes; but the young ph&oelig;nix has risen on ampler wings than those which steadied the consumed form of its parent.  It must be the great commercial emporium of California in spite of competition, wind, and flame.  Its direct connection with the sea, its magnificent bay and internal communications, have settled the question of its ultimate grandeur.  It may be afflicted with grog-shops and gamblers, and the mania of speculation, but these are temporary evils which time, a higher moral tone, and the more steady pursuits of man will remedy. Three years ago <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>BENICIA.--This town on the straits of Carquenas has the advantages of a bold shore, a quiet anchorage, and depth of water for ships of any size. Even without being a port of entry, it must become in time a large commercial depot. The small craft which float the waters of the Suisun, Sacramento, and San Joaquin, and which are ill suited to the rough bay below, will here deposit their cargoes.  It has been selected as the most feasible site for a navy-yard, and the army stores are already housed on its quay.  It was first selected as the site of a city by Robert Semple, president of the Constitution Convention, and rose rapidly into importance under his fostering care, and the energetic measures of Thomas O. Larkin.</P>
009.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO CITY.--The site of this town on the eastern bank of the Sacramento, at its junction with the Rio Americano, presents many picturesque features.  It is a town in the woods, with the native trees still waving over its roofs.  The sails of the shipping are inwoven with the masses of shade, which serve as awnings.  Roads diverge from it to the mines on the North, Middle, and South Forks, Bear, Juba, and Feather rivers.  The town has been swept by one inundation from the overflow of the Americano.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>417</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>SUTTER.--This town, which bears the name of the old pioneer on whose lands it stands, is beautifully located on the Sacramento, at the head waters of navigation.  From it issue the roads leading to all tile northern mines; the site is not subject to overflow, and the country around possesses great fertility.  It has a large commercial business: its central position must secure its prosperity.  Its proprietors are Capt. Sutter and John McDugal, lieutenant-governor of the state-gentlemen who pursue the most liberal policy, and reap their reward in the growth of their town.</P>
009.sgm:<P>VERNON.--This is the only town on Feather river, and stands at the confluence of that stream with the Sacramento.  It is above the reach of any inundation, and commands a country of wildly varied aspect.  Its location, rather than buildings or business, invest it with interest.  Its importance is prospective; but the future is fast becoming the present. Its projectors are Franklin Bates, E. O. Crosby, and Samuel Norris.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>417</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>STOCKTON.--This flourishing town is located at the head of an arm of the Suisun bay, and is accessible to small steamers.  It stands in the centre of a vast fertile plain, and on a position sufficiently elevated to exempt it from inundation.  It is the commercial depot for the southern mines; the miners on the Mokelumne, Stanislaus, Tuolumne, Mariposa, Mercedes, and King's river, are supplied with provisions and clothing from its heavy storehouses.  It will yet loom largely in the map of California.</P>
009.sgm:<P>NEW YORK.--This town is located on the triangle formed by the junction of the San Joaquin river and Suisun bay, with its base resting on a broad plain, covered with clusters of live-oak.  The banks of the river and bay are bold, and above the reach of tide and freshet.  The bay is represented on the surveys which have been made as having sufficient depth for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>418</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>ALVEZO.--This town is situated at the head of the great bay of San Francisco, on the Gaudalupe, which flows through it.  It is the natural depot of the commerce which will roll in a broad exhaustless tide, through the fertile valleys of Santa Clara and San Jos&eacute;.  It lies directly in the route to the gold and quicksilver mines, with a climate not surpassed by that of any locality in the northern sections of California.  The fertility of the surrounding country must ere long make itself felt in the growth and prosperity of this town.  San Francisco is dependant on the products of its horticulture.  Fortunes might be made by any persons who would go there and devote themselves exclusively to gardening.  But it is not in man to raise cabbages in a soil that contains gold. The proprietors of the town are J. D. Hoppe, Peter H. Burnett, and Charles B. Marvin.</P>
009.sgm:<P>STANISLAUS.--This town, situated at the junction of the Stanislaus and San Joaquin, is fast rising into consideration.  It is the highest point to which the lightest steamer can ascend. and is in the immediate vicinity of the richest mines in California.  From its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>419</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>SONORA and CRESCENT CITY.--These towns, perched up among the gold mines which overlook the San Joaquin, derive their importance from no river or bay; their resources are in the rocks and sands of the mountain freshet.  They are the miner's home--his winter quarters--his metropolis, to which he goes for society, recreation, repose, frolic, and fun. Through the livelong night the rafters ring with resounding mirth, while the storm unheeded raves without.  Of all the sites for a hamlet which I have met with in the mining region, I should prefer the one at the head of a ravine near the sources of the Stanislaus.  It is a natural amphitheatre, throwing on the eye its sweeping wall of wild cliffs and waving shade. From the green bosom of its arena swells a slight elevation, covered with beautiful evergreen trees. A little rivulet leaps from a rock, and sings in its sparkling flow the year round; while the leaves, as if in love with the spot, whisper in the soft night-wind.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>420</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THE ONE MOON TOWN.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The recent discovery of Trinidad bay, which lies about two hundred miles north of San Francisco, will have a material effect on the local interests of the country.  It will open a new channel of commerce into the northern mines, and render accessible the finest forests in California.  This bay, as represented, has sufficient depth and capacity to shelter a large marine.  A town has already been laid out on the curve of its bold shore; streets, squares, and edifices have ceased to figure on the map, and become a reality.  Where but one moon since the shark and seal plunged and played at will, freighted ships are riding at anchor; while the indignant bear has only had time to gather up her cubs and seek a new jungle.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Before this sheet can get to press, there will be a daily on Trinidad bay, with the price-current of New York and London figuring in its columns, and an opera of Rossini singing its prelude between the reeling anthems of the church-going bell.  Why, man! you talk of the slumbers of Rip Van Winkle, and the visions of the seven sleepers of Ephesus!  Know you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>421</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:not the whole world is asleep, save what wakes and works on Trinidad bay?  It takes an age in other lands to rear a city; but here, one phase of the fickle moon, and up she comes, like Venus from the wave, or the peak of Pico at the call of the morning star. Clear the coast with your old dormitory hulks of slumbering ages, and let this new Trinidad launch her keeled thunder!  Her pennant unrolls itself in flame on the wind, and her trident is tipt with the keen lightning.  The great whale of the Pacific turns here his startled gaze-plunges, and blows next half way to Japan.  <HI REND="blockindent">Hurra for Trinidad! Let nations sleep,<LB>And empires moulder in their misty shroud;<LB>She shakes her trident on her golden steep,<LB>O'er waving woods, in Solemn reverence bowed;<LB>Her bright aurora throws its Bashing ray<LB>Where primal worlds in sunless darkness stray<LB>A shout from those touched orbs comes rolling back,<LB>As rose the anthem of this earth, when first<LB>Around the night that sphered her rayless track,<LB>The breaking morn in golden splendors burst--<LB>The king of chaos sees the new-born light,<LB>And, howling, plunges down the gulf of night.<LB></HI>
009.sgm:<P>OLD AND WELL-TRIED FRIENDS.</P>
009.sgm:<P>I must not forget in my reveries over the map marvels of the new towns, the fireside friends of good old Monterey.  Among <HI REND="italics">them</HI>
009.sgm: my three years circled their varied rounds, now stored with memories that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Here is Don Manuel Dias, a native of Mexico, married to a sister of Mrs. Spence, a gentleman whose urbanity and intelligence honors his origin. Here is James McKinley, a gentleman of liberality and wealth from the Grampian Hills, married to a daughter of a Spanish Don from the Bay of Biscay. Here is Don Manuel Jimeno, once secretary of state, married into the Noriega family, to a lady of sparkling wit and gentle benevolence.  Here is Milton Little, a man of mind and means, who broke into California many years ago from the west, and whom I joined in wedlock to a fair daughter of the empire state.  Here is Don Jos&eacute; Abrigo, blest with wealth, enterprise, and a fine family of boys.  Here is J. P.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>423</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>Here is Se&ntilde;or Soveranez, whose saloon is lit by eyes bright as nuptial tapers, and where the Castilian flows soft as if warbled by a bird.  Here is Padre Ramirez, an intelligent, liberal, and warm-hearted canon of the Catholic church; and also the Rev. S. H. Willey, of the Protestant persuasion, who is organizing a society, and who has the zeal and energy to carry the enterprise through.  Monterey lost one of its most cherished ladies, when Mrs. Larkin took her departure.  Here for eighteen years she had lent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>424</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:a charm to its society.  She was the first lady from the United States that settled in California.  Long will the good old town lament the departure of T. H. Green.  His enterprise and integrity as a merchant, and his benevolence as a citizen, were everywhere felt.  The widow and the orphan ever found in him a generous friend.  Nor must I forget the young and gentle Saladonia, who has often hovered like a ministering angel in the family of the poor emigrant.  Nor must I pass unheeded the grave of my revered friend Don Juan Malerine, beloved in life, and who died <HI REND="blockindent">"Like one who wraps the drapery of his couch<LB>About him, and lies down to pleasant dreams."<LB></HI>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII.  BRIEF NOTICES OF PERSONS WHOSE PORTRAITS EMBELLISH THIS VOLUME, AND WHO ARE PROMINENTLY CONNECTED WITH CALIFORNIA AFFAIRS.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>JOHN CHARLES FREMONT</P>
009.sgm:<P>Is a native of South Carolina--was born in 1813--received his education at Charleston College, and first evinced the vigor of his mathematical genius in the efficient aid rendered the accomplished Nicollet in his survey of the basin of the upper Mississippi. The importance of this service was acknowledged by the government in his appointment as a lieutenant in the corps of Topographical Engineers.  In 1841 the war department confided to him the interests and objects of an expedition to the Rocky Mountains, In which he discovered and mapped the South Pass. The scientific results of this adventure awakened in the public mind an intense enthusiasm for a more extended exploration.  In the following year he left the frontier settlements at the head of a small party, crossed the Rocky Mountains, discovered and surveyed the great valley of the Salt Lake, and extended his researches into Oregon and California.  These explorations, which occupied the greater portion of two years, were not confined to topographical questions; they embraced all the departments of natural <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>In 1844, the explorer left the United States again for the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada, and had descended into California, when the declaration of war suspended his scientific pursuits, and summoned him to the field.  He had been honored successively with the rank of captain, major, and colonel.  A battalion of riflemen enrolled themselves under his command.  Their campaign, in the winter of 1846, impressed its intrepid spirit and heroic action on the fate of the war.  Constrained by the orders of a superior, Col. Fremont was again in the United States; where, having declined a return of his commission, which he had adorned with eminent service, he threw himself with unrepressed Spirit, on his own energies, and started again for California.  This was his seventh adventure across the continent; and owing to the lateness of the season, was attended with hardships and privations, in which many of his brave mountaineers perished.  But his force of purpose triumphed over the elements, and carried him through. The new territory, in the vast accessions of a rushing emigration, had suddenly risen to the dignity of a commonwealth.  A United States senator was to be chosen: it was the highest office within the gift of the people, and they conferred it, without distinction of party, on Col. Fremont.  The decree of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>WILLIAM M. GWIN</P>
009.sgm:<P>Was born in Sumner county, Tennessee, in 1805. His father, the Rev. James Gwin, was a distinguished divine in the Methodist Episcopal church, and one of its founders in the West.  He was for fifty years the intimate and confidential friend of Gen. Jackson, and chaplain to his army during the late war with England.  Dr. Gwin was graduated at Transylvania University, in Kentucky, and practised his profession, with eminent success for several years, in his native state and Mississippi.  He relinquished his profession in 1833, and was appointed, by Gen. Jackson, Marshal of Mississippi,-an office which he filled until after the election of Gen. Harrison to the presidency, when he became a candidate for congress, and was elected by a large majority.</P>
009.sgm:<P>He was remarked, during the session, as a ready, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>THOMAS OLIVER LARKIN</P>
009.sgm:<P>Born in Charleston, Mass., 1803, and emigrated to California eighteen years since.  The same spirit of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Through all the revolutions which convulsed the country, he held the post of United States consul, and vigilantly protected our commercial interests and the rights of our citizens.  lie was deeply concerned in all the measures which at length severed California from Mexico, and loaned his funds and credit to a large amount in raising means to meet the sudden exigences of the war.  The Californians, to cut off these supplies, managed at last, very adroitly, to capture him, and held him as a hostage in any important contingency.  But the work had already been measurably accomplished, and a restoration of prisoners soon followed.  Mr. Larkin early engaged in the organization of a civil government--was a delegate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>GEORGE W. WRIGHT.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Among the successful adventurers into California, Mr. Wright holds a prominent place.  He was born in Massachusetts in 1816, where he received a business education, and commenced life with no capital beyond his own enterprise and sagacity.  Through these he won his way to a partnership in a large commercial house, extensively engaged in the whaling service and its correlative branches of trade. Without disturbing these relations, he determined to push his adventures into California, where he arrived soon after the discovery of the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
009.sgm:, and engaged in the commerce of the country.  Success and a rapid accumulation of capital attended his efforts. A large banking-house at San Francisco was proposed, and he became the leading partner.  This house has withstood all the shocks which have carried ruin to many others, and maintained its credit unshaken. At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>Mr. Wright was the first to collect specimens of the gold-bearing quartz.  He traversed the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada for this purpose, and underwent many hardships and perils.  He was often for days on the very shortest allowance, and obliged to share even this with his famished mule.  The quartz frequently seam the loftiest ridges, and can be reached only through the most exhausting fatigue. None but those of iron muscles can scale the soaring steep, or dislodge, with steady hand and head, the treasured vein in the giddy verge.  Against these obstacles Mr. Wright persevered, and gathered a great variety of specimens, curious in themselves and often rich, but valued mainly as indications of the wealth of the quartz, and as leading-clues to their localities.  They will serve to stimulate the exertions and guide the footsteps of the subsequent miner.  They are not stowed away as secrets for the exclusive benefit of the discoverer: the information they impart is free to ,all.  The only danger lies in conclusions too glowing for the reality, and those hasty adventures in which anticipation overleaps the laborious process. The specimens are genuine, and have been pronounced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:at the mint the richest that have been tested.  The <HI REND="italics">extent</HI>
009.sgm:<P>JACOB R. SNYDER.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Born in Philadelphia, 1813, emigrated to the west in 1834, and has been for the last five years a citizen of California. At the commencement of hostilities in that country, Com. Stockton, then in command of the land and naval forces, confided to him the organization of an artillery corps, and subsequently conferred on him the appointment of quarter-master to the battalion of mounted riflemen under Col. Fremont, which office he continued to fill during the war. At the restoration of peace, Mr. Snyder was appointed by Governor Mason surveyor for the middle department of California, where his activity and science were called into play in the settlement of many questions of disputed boundary in land titles.  In the organization of a civil government, he `vas elected delegate from Sacramento district to the convention, and was one of the committee for drafting the constitution. His remarks in the convention are characterized <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>433</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>CAPT. JOHN A. SUTTER.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The leading features of interest in the adventurous life of Capt. Sutter are connected with California affairs.  He was born in Switzerland near the close of the last century, and early relinquished its glaciers and lakes for the sunny fields of France.  His love of adventure turned his attention to the camp, where his gallant conduct soon secured him an honorable commission.  But the wars of the continent being over, he emigrated to the United States, and having resided several years in Missouri, turned his roving eye to the shores of the Pacific.</P>
009.sgm:<P>Through a series of adventures, which seem more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>434</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:like fictions than realities, he at length reached the valley of the Sacramento, where he procured from the government the grant of a large tract of land. The country around was in the possession of wild Indians, some of whom he conciliated, and through their labors constructed a fort to protect himself from the rest.  His influence over these children of the forest was such that in a few years he bad over a thousand of their number at work on his farm.  He was upright in all his dealings with them, and paid each as punctually as if he had been a king.  His place, to which he gave the name of New Helvetia, was for years the emigrant's goal,--the land of promise, which glimmered in warm light through his cold mountain dream.  <HI REND="italics">There</HI>
009.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>It was on the lands of Capt. Sutter that gold was first discovered; the cut of a mill-race revealed the entrancing treasure; but all were welcome to the results; no spirit of monopoly obstructed the digger, Or enriched the proprietor; fortunes went freely to the pockets of those who drove the spade and turned the bowl.  When a civil organization was proposed, the generous captain was deputed by the electors in his district to represent them in the convention.  He there favored all measures calculated to secure the interests of the emigrants, and develop the resources of the country.  When he put his own signature to the constitution, he dropped the pen in very gladness; the light of other days encircled his spirit, he was a child again; all felt the tears which filled the eyes of the old pioneer, and wept in joyous sympathy with their source.  The work was done, and California was henceforth to revolve among the glorious orbs of the republic!</P>
009.sgm:<P>DON MARIANO GUADALUPE VALLEJO. This distinguished Californian was born in Monterey, 1817; his father held a military command under the crown of Spain, and subsequently under the Mexican republic; he lived to the advanced age of 95, and saw his children allied in marriage to the most influential families in the province.  Don Mariano entered the service of the government as a cadet; rose rapidly to a post of commanding influence, but always evinced a repugnance to Mexican <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>436</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>436</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>When the United States flag was raised, Gen. Vallejo saw in it the opportunity of securing the permanent tranquillity and prosperity of California: a thousand of his noble horses went under the saddles of our mounted riflemen.  The war over, he was first and foremost in measures for a civil organization, and represented the district of Sonoma in the convention for drafting a constitution.  His liberal views and sound policy pervade every provision of the instrument.  He was subsequently elected a senator to the state legislature, and might have been a successful candidate for any office within the gift of the people.  He is a large landed proprietor; his cattle are on a hundred hills, and his horses in as many vales; while a thousand Indians, whom he has won from savage life, cultivate his fields, and garner his grains.  His munificent liberality and profound interest in the cause of education, and the claims of humanity, may be gathered from the following statement contained in the report of the committee of the California legislature on public buildings and grounds, in relation to the permanent location of the seat of government.  This committee say:</P>
009.sgm:<P>Gen. Vallejo, a native of California, and now a member of the legislature, oilers a site lying upon the Straits of Carquinas and Napa <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>1st. That said permanent seat of government may be laid out in such form as five Commissioners may direct, three of whom shall be appointed by the legislature, and two by himself.</P>
009.sgm:<P>2d. That he proposes to grant to the state, for the following purposes, free of Cost:</P>
009.sgm:<P><HSEP>Acres.<LB>Capitol and grounds<HSEP>20<LB>Governor's house and grounds<HSEP>10<LB>Offices of Treasurer, Comptroller, Secretary of State, &amp;c<HSEP>5<LB>State Library and Translator's office<HSEP>1<LB>Orphan's Asylum<HSEP>20<LB>Male Charity Hospital<HSEP>10<LB>Female Charity Hospital<HSEP>10<LB>Asylum for the Blind<HSEP>4<LB>Deaf and Dumb Asylum<HSEP>4<LB>Lunatic Asylum<HSEP>20<LB>Four Common Schools<HSEP>8<LB>State University<HSEP>20<LB>State Botanical Garden<HSEP>4<LB>State Penitentiary<HSEP>20</P>
009.sgm:<P>Also, your memorialist proposes to donate and pay over to the state, within two years after the acceptance of his propositions, the following sums of money, for the faithful payment of which he proposes to give to the state ample security.</P>
009.sgm:<P>For building State Capitol<HSEP>$125,000<LB>Furnishing the same<HSEP>10,000<LB>Building Governor's House<HSEP>10,000<LB>Furnishing the same<HSEP>5,000<LB>State Library and Translator's Office<HSEP>5,000<LB>State Library<HSEP>5,000<LB>For the building of the Offices of Secretary of State, Comptroller, Attorney-General, Surveyor-General, and Treasurer, should the Commissioners deem it proper to separate them from the State House<HSEP>20,000<LB>Building Orphan's Asylum<HSEP>20,000<LB>Building Female Charity Hospital<HSEP>20,000<LB>Building Male Charity Hospital<HSEP>20,000<LB>Building Asylum for Blind<HSEP>20,000<LB>Building Deaf and Dumb Asylum<HSEP>20,000<LB>Building State University<HSEP>20,000<LB>For University Library<HSEP>10,000<LB>Scientific Apparatus therefor<HSEP>5,000<LB>Chemical Laboratory therefor<HSEP>3,000<LB>Mineral Cabinet therefor<HSEP>3,000<LB>Four Common School Edifices<HSEP>10,000<LB>Purchasing Books for same<HSEP>5,000</P>
009.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>438</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>438</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>For the Building of a Lunatic Asylum<HSEP>$20,000<LB>For a State Penitentiary<HSEP>20,000<LB>For a State Botanical Collection<HSEP>3,000</P>
009.sgm:<P>In accordance with another proposition of Gen. Vallejo, the committee further report in favor of submitting this offer to the acceptance of the people, at the next general election.  The report adds:</P>
009.sgm:<P>"Your committee cannot dwell With too much warmth upon the magnificent propositions contained in the memorial of Gen. Vallejo. They breathe throughout the spirit of an enlarged mind, and a sincere public benefactor, for which he deserves the thanks of this body, and the gratitude of California.  Such a proposition looks more like the legacy of a prince to his, people, than the free donation of a private planter to a great state.'</P>
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009.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIII. THE MISSION ESTABLISHMENTS IN CALIFORNIA.--THEIR ORIGIN, OBJECTS, LOCALITIES, LANDS, REVENUES, OVERTHROW.</HEAD>
009.sgm:<P>THE missions of California are the most prominent features in her history.  They were established to propagate the Roman faith, and extend the domain of the Spanish crown.  They contemplated the conversion of the untutored natives, and a permanent possession of the soil.  They were an extension of the same system which, half a century previous, had achieved such signal triumphs on the peninsula and through the northern provinces of Mexico.  The founders were men of unwearied zeal and heroic action; their enterprise, fortitude, and unshaken purpose might rouse all the slumbering strings of the religious minstrel.</P>
009.sgm:<P>In Alta California these missions formed a religious cordon the entire extent of the coast.  They were reared at intervals of twelve or fourteen leagues in all the great fertile valleys opening on the sea.  The first was founded in 1769; others followed fast, and before the close of the century the whole twenty were in effective operation.  Each establishment contained within itself the elements of its strength, the sources of its aggrandizement.  It embraced a massive church, garnished with costly plate; dwellings, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>These vast establishments absorbed the lands, capital, and business of the country; shut out emigration, suppressed enterprise, and moulded every interest into an implement of ecclesiastical sway.  In 1833, the supreme government of Mexico issued a decree which converted then, into civil institutions, subject to the control of the state.  The Consequence was, the padres lost their power, and with that departed the enterprise and wealth of their establishments. The civil administrators plundered them of their stock, the governors granted to favorites sections of their lands, till, with few exceptions, only the huge buildings remain.  Their localities will serve as important guides to emigrants in quest of lands adapted to pasturage and agriculture, and their statistics will show, to some extent, the productive forces of the soil.  These have been gathered, `with some pains, from the archives of each mission, and are grouped for the first time in these pages.  They are like the missions themselves--skeletons.  California, though seemingly young, is piled with the wrecks of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>441</CONTROLPGNO>
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009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF DOLLORES.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission is situated on the south side of the bay of San Francisco, two miles from the town.  Its lands were forty leagues in circumference.  Its stock, in 1825, consisted of 76,000 head of cattle, 950 tame horses, 2000 breeding-mares, 84 stud of choice breed, 820 mules, 79,000 sheep, 2000 hogs, 456 yoke of working-oxen, 18,000 bushels of wheat and barley, $35,000 in merchandize, and $25,000 in specie.  It was secularized in 1834 by order of Gen. Figueroa, and soon became a wreck.  The walls of the huge church only remain.  Little did the good padre who reared them dream of the great town that was to rise in their shadows!</P>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SANTA CLARA.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission is situated in the bosom of the great valley that bears its name, six miles from the embarcadara which strands the upper bend of the great bay of San Francisco.  Around it lie the richest lands in California--once its own domain.  In 1823 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>442</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SAN JOS&Eacute;.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission was founded in 1797, fifteen miles from the town which bears its name, and at the terminus of a valley unrivalled in fertility.  It supplied the Russian Company with grain, who sent yearly several large ships for stores for their northern settlements.  It is stated, in the archives of this mission, that the mayordomo gathered 8,600 bushels of wheat from 80 bushels sown; and the following year, from the grain which fell at the time of the first harvest, 5200 bushels!  The priest told me that Julius C&aelig;sar deposited in the temple of Ceres 362 kernels of wheat, as the largest yield of any one kernel in the Roman empire; and that he had gathered and counted, from one kernel sown at this mission, 365-beating Romo in three kernels!  This mission had, in 1825,3000 Indians, 62,000 head of cattle, 840 tame horses, 1500 mares, 420 mules, 310 yoke of oxen, and 62,000 sheep.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>443</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SAN JUAN BOUTISTA. This mission looms over a rich valley, ten leagues from Monterey-founded 1794.  Its lands swept the broad interval and adjacent hills.  In 1820 it owned 43,870 head of cattle, 1360 tame horses, 4870 mares, colts, and fillies.  It had seven sheep-farms, containing 69,530 sheep; while the Indians attached to the mission drove 321 yoke of working-oxen.  Its storehouse contained $75,000 in goods and $20,000 in specie.  This mission was secularized in 1834; its cattle slaughtered for their bides and tallow, its sheep left to the wolves, its horses taken by the dandies, its Indians left to hunt acorns, while the wind sighs over the grave of its last padre.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SAN CARLOS.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission, founded 1770, stands in the Carmel valley, three miles from Monterey.  Through its ample lands flows a beautiful stream of water, which every governor of the country, for the last thirty years, has purposed conducting to the metropolis. Its gardens supply the vegetable market of Monterey. Its pears are extremely rich in flavor.  In its soil were raised, in 1826, the first potatoes cultivated in California.  So little did the presiding padre think of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>444</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SANTA CRUZ.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission stands near the coast on the northern side of the bay of Monterey, in a tract of land remarkable for its agricultural capacities, which it developed in the richest harvests.  In 1830 this mission owned all the lands now cultivated or claimed by the farmers of Santa Cruz.  It had 42,800 head of cattle, 3200 horses and mares, 72,500 sheep, 200 mules, large herds of swine, a spacious church, garnished with $25,000 worth of silver plate.  It was secularized in 1834 by order of Gen. Figueroa, and shared the fate of its Carmel sister.  Only one padre lingers on the premises, and he seems the last of a perished race.</P>
009.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>445</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>445</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SOLEDAD.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission is situated fifteen leagues southwest of Monterey, in a fertile plain, known by the name of the "llano del rey."  The priest was an indefatigable agriculturist.  To obviate the summer drought, he constructed, through the labor of his Indians, an aqueduct extending fifteen miles, by which he could water twenty thousand acres of land.  In 1826 this mission owned about 36,000 head of cattle, and a greater number of horses and mares than any other mission in the country.  So great was the reproduction of these animals, they were given away to preserve the pasturage for cattle and sheep.  It had about 70,000 sheep, and 300 yoke of tame oxen.  In 1819 the mayordomo of this mission gathered 3400 bushels of wheat from 38 bushels sown.  It has still standing about a thousand fruit-trees, which still bear their mellow harvests; but its secularization has been followed by decay and ruin.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SAN ANTONIO.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission is situated twelve leagues south of Soledad, on the border of an inland stream, upon which it has conferred its name.  The buildings were inclosed in a square, twelve hundred feet on each side, and walled with adobes.  Its lands were forty-eight leagues in circumference, including seven farms, with a convenient house and chapel attached to each.  The stream was conducted in paved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>446</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SAN MIGUEL.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This inland mission is situated sixteen leagues south of San Antonio, on a barren elevation; but the lands attached to it sweep a circuit of sixty leagues, and embrace some of the finest tracts for agriculture.  Of the sethe Estella tract is one; its fertility is enough to make a New England plough jump out of its rocks; and a hundred emigrants will yet squat in its green bosom, and set the wild Indians and their warwhoop at defiance.  In 1822 this mission owned 91,000 head of cattle, 1100 tame horses, 3000 mares, 2000 mules, 170 yoke of working oxen, and 47,000 sheep.  The mules were used in packing the products of the mission to Monterey, and bringing back drygoods, groceries, and the implements of husbandry.  But now the Indian neophytes are gone, the padres have departed, and the old church only remains to interpret the past.</P>
009.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>447</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>447</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>This mission stands fourteen leagues southeast of San Miguel, and within three of the coast.  it has always been considered one of the richest missions in California.  The presiding priest, Luis Martinez, was a man of comprehensive purpose and indomitable force. His mission grant covered an immense tract of the richest lands on the seaboard. Every mountain stream was made to subserve the purposes of irrigation. He planted the cotton-tree, the lime, and a grove of olives, which still shower their abundant harvests on the tables of the Californians.  He built a launch that run to Santa Barbara, trained his Indians to kill the otter, and often received thirty and forty skins a week from his children of the bow.  His storehouse at Santa Margarita, with its high adobe walls, was one hundred and ninety feet long, and well stowed with grain.  His table was loaded with the choicest game and richest wines; his apartments for guests might have served the hospitable intentions of a prince.  He had 87,000 head of grown cattle, 2000 tame horses, 3500 mares, 3700 mules, eight sheep-farms, averaging 9000 sheep to each farm, and the broad Tulare valley, in which his Indians could capture any number of wild horses. The mayordomo of this mission in 1827, scattered on the ground, without having first ploughed it, 120 bushels of wheat, and then scratched it in with things called harrows, and harvested from the same over 7000 bushels. This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>448</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>448</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF LA PURISIMA.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission is located eighteen leagues south of San Luis, at the base of a mountain spur, in the coast range; its lands covered about thirteen hundred square miles, and were at one time so filled with wild cattle, the presiding priest granted permits to any person who desired to kill them for their hides and tallow, the meat being thrown away.  Thousands in this shape fell under the lasso and knife, and still the mission numbered in 1830 over 40,000 head of cattle sufficiently domesticated to be coralled, 300 yoke of working-oxen, 2600 tame horses, 4000 mares, 30,000 sheep, and 5000 swine, which were raised for their lard-no one eating the meat.  The horses on this mission were celebrated for their beauty and speed; they performed feats under the saddle worthy of the most brilliant page in the register of the turf.  But now the steed and his rider are gone, and the willow sighs over the mouldering ruin.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SANTA INEZ.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission is seven leagues to the southward of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>449</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>449</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SANTA BARBARA.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission is twelve leagues south of Santa Inez. Between the two a steep mountain range shoulders its way to the sea.  No wheeled vehicle has ever been driven over it, except that which transported the field-piece attached to Col. Fremont's battalion. The mission being near the beautiful town of Santa Barbara, its profuse hospitality contributed largely to the social pleasures of the citizens. Its vintage never failed, and its friendly fires ever burnt bright; many a gay merrianda has kindled the eye of beauty in its soft shade.  The main building is elaborately finished for California.  The lands of the mission embraced many leagues.  In 1828 it had 40,000 head of cattle, 1000 horses, 2000 mares, 80 yoke of oxen, 600 mules, and 20,000 sheep.  It is now under a civil administrator, and a portion of its lands still remain vested in their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>450</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>450</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SAN BUENAVENTURA.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission is situated about nine leagues south of Santa Barbara, near the seaboard.  Its lands covered an area of fifteen hundred square miles, of which two hundred are arable land.  In 1825 it owned 37,000 head of cattle, 600 riding horses, 1300 mares, 200 yoke of working-oxen, 500 mules, 30,000 sheep, 200 goats, 2000 swine, a thrifty orchard, two rich vineyards, $35,000 in foreign goods, $27,000 in specie, with church ornaments and clothing valued at $61,000.  It was secularized in 1835, and has since been under a civil administrator, but all its wealth soon became a wreck.  A small portion of its lands remain, and will tempt the horticultural emigrant to its fertile bosom.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SAN FERNANDO.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission, founded 1797, is situated about sixteen leagues south of San Buenaventura, in the midst of a beautiful plain, and has always been celebrated for the superior quality of the brandy distilled from its grapes.  In 1826 it owned 56,000 head of cattle, 1500 horses and mares, 200 mules, 400 yoke of working-oxen, 64,000 sheep, and 2000 swine.  It had in its stores about $50,000 in merchandise, $90,000 in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>451</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>451</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>This mission, located a little below los Angeles, was founded in 1771, and for several years led the others in enterprise and wealth.  Its lands cover one of the most charming intervals in California; the soil and climate are both well adapted to fruit.  In its gardens bloomed oranges, citrons, limes, apples, pears, peaches, pomegranates, figs, and grapes in great abundance.  From the latter were made annually from four to six hundred barrels of wine, and two hundred of brandy, the sale of which produced an income of more than $12,000.  In 1829 it had 70,000 head of cattle, 1200 horses, 3000 mares, 400 mules, 120 yoke of working-oxen, and 54,000 sheep. The charming rancho of Santa Anita belongs to this mission; it is situated on a gentle acclivity, where fruit trees and flowers scatter their perfume; while a clear lake lies calmly in front, to which the leaping rivulets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>452</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>452</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission, situated eighteen leagues south of San Gabriel, was founded in 1776, and was for many years one of the most opulent in the country.  Its lands extended fifteen leagues along the seaboard, and back to the mountains, where they swept over many ravines of fertile soil and sequestering shade. Through these roamed vast herds of cattle, sheep, and horses; while the sickle, pruning-knife, and shuttle gleamed in the dexterous hand of the domestic Indian.  The earthquake of 1812 threw down the heavy stone church, as if in omen of the disasters which have since befallen the mission.  The cattle have gone to the shambles, the Indians are in exile, the mass is over, and the shuttle at rest.</P>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SAN LUIS REY.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission, located near the sea, and twelve leagues south of San Juan, was founded in 1798 by padre Peyri, who had devoted himself for years to the improvement of the Indians.  The buildings occupy a large square, in the centre of which a fountain still plays; along the front runs a corridor, supported by thirty-two arches, ornamented with latticed railings; while the interior is divided into apartments suited to the domestic economy of a large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>453</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>453</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>MISSION OF SAN DIEGO.</P>
009.sgm:<P>This mission, situated fourteen leagues south of San Luis Rey, and near the town that bears its name, was founded in 1769 by padre Junipero Lerra, and was the first established in Alta California.  Its possessions covered the whole tract of land which circles for leagues around the beautiful bay upon which its green hills look.  Here the first cattle were coralled, the first sheep sheared, the first field furrowed, the first vineyard planted, and the first church bell rung.  The Indian heard in this strange sound the invoking voice of his God, and knelt reverently to the earth.  The success of this mission paved the way for the establishment of others, till the whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>454</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>454</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>THE RAILROAD TO CALIFORNIA.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The facilities of social and commercial intercourse between our Atlantic and Pacific borders, yet to be created, present a problem of great practical importance.  The present route, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
009.sgm: Chagres and Panama, may be regarded as a necessity to be superseded as soon as practicable, by a railroad directly across the continent, within our own jurisdiction.  Besides the formidable political objections to being dependent on foreign powers for a connection between our remotest and most important commercial points, the distance, via Chagres and Panama, or by any railroad or canal across the Isthmus yet to be made, in connection with the effects of a hot climate on animal and vegetable products, as subjects of trade between our Atlantic and Pacific coasts, present most insuperable obstacles to a permanent reliance on that route. It is now ascertained, that instead of thirty days between New York and San Francisco, or forty days to the mouth of the Columbia river by steam, or three to six months by sailing craft, either of these points may be reached in seven to eight days by railroad direct, avoiding altogether the deleterious effects of climate on articles of trade, as well as on health and life.  These two considerations, so potent and overruling in commercial intercourse, will undoubtedly prove paramount to all antagonistic interests, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>455</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>455</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>But what shall be the plan, Mr. Whitney's or a government enterprise?  If the government undertake it, the chances are a thousand to one, that, like the Cumberland road, it will be broken down by party strifes.  Neither of the two great parties of the country would, in any probability, risk the responsibility of taking it on its shoulders as a government work.  Shall it, then, be done by a corporate company, with an adequate loan of public credit, as has been proposed?  Besides other insuperable objections to a plan of this kind, of a party political character, it mus be seen, that all transport on a road built on this plan, must pay a toll to satisfy the interest of the capital invested; whereas, on the Whitney plan, no toll will be exacted, except to keep the road and its machinery in repair.  This difference, in its operation on trade and commerce, will be immense, sufficient, as any one may see, to decide the question at once and forever between the two plans.  The company proposed will have to <HI REND="italics">borrow</HI>
009.sgm: its capital, the interest of which must be provided for by tolls.  This tax on trade and intercourse will necessarily prevent that grand movement of commercial exchanges between the Atlantic  and Pacific  states, between the United States and Asia, and between Europe and Asia, which is the great object of the enterprise. But the Whitney plan does not borrow, but <HI REND="italics">creates</HI>
009.sgm:, by its own progress, out of the increased value of the lands through which it passes, the capital required to build the road; and thus dispensing with all tolls to pay for the use of capital, it will invite and secure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>456</CONTROLPGNO>
009.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>456</PRINTPGNO>
009.sgm:<P>Moreover, on the company plan, the increased value of the lands on the route, will all go to the corporation; whereas, on the Whitney plan, it will go to the people of the United States, whose property it is, and to the benefit of that trade and commerce which it sets in motion.</P>
009.sgm:<P>The Whitney plan, once executed, will merge in one the interests of our population on the Pacific slope of this continent and those of our population on the Atlantic slope, and by that means they will remain one forever.  But the failure of this enterprise, by the neglect of Congress to authorize it, would make the interests of these two vast regions forever Independent of and opposed to each other.  Such a dereliction of duty, so apparent, would ere long, as a natural if not necessary consequence, create an independent nation on the Pacific.<LB>THE END.</P>
010.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-010</TITLE>
010.sgm:<TITLE>Mountains and molehills; or, Recollections of a burnt journal.  By Frank Marryat: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
010.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
010.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
010.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
010.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
010.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
010.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
010.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc01-807</LCCN>
010.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
010.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Not determined</COPYRIGHT>
010.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P><illus entity="a010-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WHERE THE GOLD COMES FROM.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>MOUNTAIN AND MOLEHILLS<LB>OR RECOLLECTIONS OF<LB>A BURNT JOURNAL</P>
010.sgm:<P>BY FRANK MARRYAT,<LB>AUTHOR OF "BORNEO AND THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO."</P>
010.sgm:<P>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR.</P>
010.sgm:<P>NEW YORK:<LB>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,<LB>FRANKLIN SQUARE.<LB>1855.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>NOTHING that I can say here will blind the reader to the deficiency of these pages; they are in truth, as their title expresses, the recollections of a "Journal burnt," and I present here but an outline of what I have seen or heard during three years of my life and if I am wanting in figures and statistics and any thing of weight as regards the country written of, it is certainly because I recalled this Journal unexpectedly, and far from the scenes it once depicted.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I may have remembered too little, but that is preferable to remembering too much.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I have tried to confine myself to what is most pleasant, and it may be that a rambling truthful story is the best, if to make the work elaborate one must have recourse to fiction.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is right that a man should submit any thing he does modestly, yet, for all that, a preface need not be an apology; for I look on a tale written as a tale <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>In these days, when new discoveries of Nature's gifts, and increased facilities of communication with them invite man to roam, any record of travel should possess some interest for the adventurous.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I have proved to myself, what these pages may not show, that a man with health may plant himself in any country in the world, and by the exercise of those reasonable faculties that are denied to few, may there live well and happily.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is nothing, perhaps, to state this for a fact, but I would have each emigrant hug it to his breast as a warm hope that will uphold him in the hours of adversity and trial that will meet him in the path he pioneers for himself in a new country.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Reader, these pages are so much black and white, and will pass, as nearly all such matter does, rapidly to oblivion; but if they bring no smile to you, nor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>FRANK MARRYAT.</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
010.sgm: 1 <HI REND="italics">st</HI>
010.sgm:<P>NOTE.--As my sketches were destroyed by fire, I have been unable to illustrate the scenery of California, but in the accompanying drawings I have endeavored to be faithful to the characteristics of the people.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>Chagres River.--Curiosity.--Isthmus of Panama.--Washington Hotel.--Ants.--A Native of Virginia.--Gold Train.--Robbery.--Panama Bells.--An Emigrant Ship.--An affecting Preacher.--San Francisco<HSEP>13<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>A Great Country.--Improvement.--Adventurers.--Drinking-saloons.--The old Judge.--Banks.--Mine Speculators.--Gambling-houses.--"Don't Shoot."--Climate.--High and Dry<HSEP>32<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>Benicia.--Barnes.--A mad Blood-hound.--His Death.--Grasshoppers. --Don Raymond.--A Blessed City.--Wicked Mules.--"Camping out."--Napa.--Fourth of July.--Agriculturists.--Sonoma.--Competition.--An Irascible Bull<HSEP>50<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>Spanish Grants.--Squatters.--Squatter Fights.--A Spanish Ranche. --Good Quarters.--Fleas.--Vanity.--Vaccaros.--Quilp.--English Saddles.--Antelope Hunt.--Rattlesnakes.--Quilp Waltzes.--Californian Horses.--Saddles.--Horse-breaking.--A Tame Horse.<HSEP>65<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>Spanish Priests.--Indians.--Quilp forgets Himself.--Habits of Native Californians.--Father Bartolem&eacute;o.--The Lasso.--Good Riders.--Cattle branding.--Raymond provides Mules.--Russian River.--We Encamp.--Saw-mill.--I propose to "Squat"<HSEP> 82 </P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VI.<LB>The Little Valley.--Three Martyrs.--Mountain Life.--The poor Does.--Castor-oil.--A sick Dog.--The Carpentaro.--Gray Squirrel.--Digger Indians--Redwood Tree.--American Rifles.--Grizzly Bear Hunt.--Sheldon wounded.--Difficulty in killing the Bear.--Habits of the Bear.--A Thief<HSEP>98<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>Deer Hunting.--Wild Bulls.--Wild Fowl.--A Duck Gun.--Driving an Ox-team.--I reflect.--An Estampede.--The Tiger Cat.--Rainy Season.--Indian Fires.--Wasps.--We are robbed by the Indians.--I kill a Bear.--Crossing a Swollen River<HSEP>118<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>Quilp departs for the South.--San Luis.--Ramsey.--I am left for<LB>Dead.--The early History of California.--Discovery of San Francisco.--Spanish Missions.--A Digression.--Digression, continued.<LB>--A rainy Season.--A little Crab136<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>The old Crab-Catcher.--Mr. Warren.--American Friendship.--The American Press.--Education in America.--Americans good Colonists.--Californian Correspondence<HSEP>154<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>Long Wharf.--Clipper Ships.--Chinese Emigrants.--The May Fire.--An exciting Scene.--Iron Houses.--Vallejo.--The Coyote.--Wild Geese<HSEP>167<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>Coyote Hunting.--My Dominions are invaded.--Thomas Kills a Bear.--A Trial of Strength--Rowe's "Lot."--Choctaw.--Elk.--A Butchery.--Rough Life.--Fertility of the Soil<HSEP>181<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>Another Fire.--My Geological Friend.--" Burnt out."--Sacramento.--Levee.--Hulks.--Rats.--Vigilance Committee.--Start for Volcano.--Crockett.--"Right side up"<HSEP>197<LB><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:CHAPTER XIII.<LB>An old She-goat.--Our Mineralogist.--Gold Diggers.--Murderer's Bar.--The Theorist puzzled.--Mining Laws.--Jumping Claims.--The Miner's Life.--"Let her Slide."--Hostile Indians.--We are disgusted.--Fire-proof Houses<HSEP>210<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>Joe Bellow.--Stockton.--A Bear Trapper.--Bear and Bull-Fights. --An uneasy Bear--Californian Inns.--Natural Roads.--Good Driving.--I kill a Flea.--Sonora.--The Evening commences.--French Emigrants.--A Drinking Bar.--Number Eighty.--A Corral and a Moral<HSEP> 224<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>The Gold Mine.--The Innocence of Sonora.--Sunday in Sonora.--Selling a Horse.--Carrying Weapons.--Bob.--We leave Vallejo.--We are "Bound to Go."--The Shadow of a Crow<HSEP>241<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>I explain to the patient Reader.--Pioneers.--A Lady's Boot.-- Mainspring.--Mexican Robbers.--Victims of Prejudice.--Works on America.--Two Pigs.--Power of the Human Will<HSEP>258<LB>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>Yield of Gold.--Its Duration.--Mormon Gulch.--The Distribution of Gold.--Tunneling.--Damming Rivers.--Holden's Garden.--Energy in the Mines.--Quartz Mines.--Quartz Mining Successful.--The Author gets out of his Depth<HSEP>272<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>Transport Machinery to the Mine.--The Carpenter Judge, and Constable Rowe.--Cut-throat Jack.--Greasers.--French Miners--John Chinaman.--Chinese Ferocity.--The Feast of Lanterns, --Chinese Despotism.--False Sympathy<HSEP>288<LB>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>The Firemen of San Francisco.--"We strive to Save."--A Barber's Saloon.--Oysters.--Places of Amusement.--A pickled Head.-- Shooting on Sight<HSEP>803</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XX.<LB>Rat-catchers.--Drays.--Crested Partridge.--A Marvelous Story.--Sailors in the Mines.--A Verdict.--The Quartz has the best of it.--I leave Tuttle-Town<HSEP>317<LB>CHAPTER XXI.<LB>Advice to Emigrants.--Gold Countries.--Self-doctoring.--Advice Continued.--I Arrive at Stockton<HSEP>331<LB>CHAPTER XXII.<LB>Elections.--Executions.--Reforms.--Exiles.--" Know Nothings."--Testimonials.--Speaking Trumpets.--Ocean Steamers.--Life buoys.--Air-boats.--Confidence necessary.--Fitting a Raft.--A Suggestion<HSEP>342<LB>CHAPTER XXIII.<LB>"Hercules" Fails.--Land Crabs.--Mr. Bobbins.--"Rushing" the Ship.--New York<HSEP>358<LB>CHAPTER XXIV. Yellow Fever.--A wooden Head.--Hard Times.--A Gale.--We spring a Leak.--Acapulco.--Smuggling.--Cholera.--Conclusion<HSEP>370<LB>APPENDIX<HSEP>383 </P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P><HSEP>Page<LB>WHERE THE GOLD COMES FROM<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
010.sgm:.<LB>CROSSING THE ISTHMUS<HSEP>19<LB>BAR-ROOM IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP> 43<LB>HIGH AND DRY<HSEP>48<LB>VACCARO AND INDIAN<HSEP>72<LB>QUILP<HSEP>78<LB>CAMPING OUT<HSEP>96<LB>THE THREE MARTYRS<HSEP>101<LB>THE SHOOTING-BOX<HSEP>102<LB>WINTER OF 1849<HSEP>150<LB>ROWE'S LOT<HSEP>190<LB>A PROSPECTOR<HSEP>211<LB>THE SONORA STAGE<HSEP>233<LB>HORSE AUCTION AT SONORA<HSEP>247<LB>THE UMBRELLA<HSEP>255<LB>OLD SOLDIER AND CHOCTAW<HSEP>256<LB>THE LADY's BOOT<HSEP>262<LB>THE CARPENTER JUDGE<HSEP>292<LB>THE FRENCH MINER<HSEP>294<LB>JOHN CHINAMAN<HSEP>297<LB>THE FEAST OF LANTERNS<HSEP>298<LB>A FIREMAN'S FUNERAL<HSEP>307<LB>THE MINER'S GRAVE<HSEP>324<LB>DRAWING STRAWS<HSEP>326<LB>CHAGRES RIVER<HSEP>359<LB>MR. BOBBINS<HSEP>364</P>
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010.sgm:<P>MOUNTAINS AND MOLE HILLS; OR, RECOLLECTIONS OF A BURNT JOURNAL.</P>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Chagres River.--Curiosity.--Isthmus of Panama.--Washington Hotel.--Ants.--A Native of Virginia.--Gold Train.--Robbery.--Panama Bells.--An Emigrant Ship.--An affecting Preacher.--San Francisco</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">April</HI>
010.sgm:<P>AT eight A.M., Chagres was reported in sight; and as we neared the land, it presented an appearance far from inviting.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The American steamer, "Cherokee," ran into the anchorage with us, and immediately disgorged five, hundred American citizens in red and blue shirts.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I landed with as much expedition as possible, and commenced at once to bargain for a canoe to take me up the river.  This I at last effected at an exorbitant price, and on the express condition that we should not start until sunset.  A few months back the native Indians of this place considered themselves amply repaid with a few dollars for a week's work; but, since <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>The town of Chagres deserves notice, inasmuch as it is the birth-place of a malignant fever, that became excessively popular among the Californian emigrants; many of whom have acknowledged the superiority of this malady, by giving up the ghost a very few hours after landing.  Most towns are famous for some particular manufacture, and it is the fashion for visitors to carry away a specimen of the handicraft--so it is with Chagres.  It is composed of about fifty huts, each of which raises its head from the midst of its own Private malaria, occasioned by the heaps of filth and offal which, putrefying under the rays of a vertical sun, choke up the very doorway.</P>
010.sgm:<P>On the thresholds of the doors--in the huts themselves--fish, bullocks' heads, hides, and carrion are strewed, all in a state of decomposition; while in the rear is the jungle, and a lake of stagnant water, with a delicate bordering of greasy blue mud.  As I had with me my man Barnes and three large blood-hounds, I hired a boat of extra size, capable of containing us all, together with the baggage; this being preferable to making a swifter passage with two smaller canoes, and lining the risk of separation.  At about three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Every growing thing clings to and embraces its neighbor most lovingly: here is a bunch of tangled parasites that bind a palm-tree by a thousand bands to a majestic teak, and having shown their power, as it were, the parasites ascend the topmost branch of the teak, and devote the rest of their existence to embellishing with rich festoons of their bright red flowers the pair they have thus united.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The teak, which is here a very bald tree, is much improved by the addition of these parasites, which give him quite a juvenile appearance, and form; in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Immediately under the ants' nest are some glorious water-lilies, and close to these, by way of contrast, floats an alligator who has been dead some time, and hasn't kept well, and on the top of him sit two black cormorants, which having, evidently, overeaten themselves, are shot on the spot and die lazily.  So we ascend the river; a-head, astern, on every side are canoes; here, surmounting a pyramid of luggage, is a party of Western men in red shirts and jack boots, questioning every body with the curiosity peculiar to their race.  Presently it is my turn.</P>
010.sgm:<P>"Whar bound to, stranger?"</P>
010.sgm:<P>"California."</P>
010.sgm:<P>"Come along! Whar d'ye head from?"</P>
010.sgm:<P>"England."</P>
010.sgm:<P>"Come along! Whar did yer get them dogs?"</P>
010.sgm:<P>"No whar," I had a mind to reply, but at this stage I relapsed into dogged silence, well knowing that there are some lanes which have no turning, and among these is a Western man's curiosity.  The padrone of my canoe, who steered the boat, had brought his wife with him, and she sat with us in the stern sheets, laughing, chattering, and smoking a cigar. I could find no heart to object to this increase of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>The short time he took to change his profession was very characteristic of the gambling habits of these Central Americans.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I slept in the canoe, and at daylight the boatmen returned, having made a night of it.  The monte banker had been lucky, he informed me, and had left his wife behind, to which I was ungallantly indifferent.  Another day on the river, and another night spent at a hut, and on the third morning we arrived at Gorgona, from whence we had to take mules to Panama.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The bargaining for mules in Gorgona was in every respect similar to the canoe transaction at Chagres; and after passing a day in the sun, and accomplishing in the evening what might, but for the vacillation of the natives, have been done at once, we started for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:Panama in company with the baggage, Barnes walking from choice with the dogs.  With Our mules in a string we plunged at once into a narrow, rocky path in the forest, where palm-trees and creepers shut the light out overhead--splashing through gurgling, muddy streams, that concealed loose and treacherous stones--stumbling over fallen trees that lay across our road--burying ourselves to the mules' girths in filthy swamps, where on either side dead and putrid mules were lying--amidst lightning, thunder, and incessant rain, we went at a foot-pace on the road to Panama.  The thunder-storm changed the twilight of our covered path to darkness, and one of my mules missing his footing on the red, greasy clay, falls down under his heavy load.  When he gets up he has to be unpacked, amidst the curses of the muleteer, and packed again, and thus losing half an hour in the pelting storm, file after file passes us, until, ready once more to start, we find ourselves the last upon the road.  At Gorgona a flaming advertisement had informed us that half way on the road to Panama the "Washington Hotel" would accommodate travelers with "forty beds." Anxious to secure a resting-place for my own party, I left the luggage-train under the charge of Barnes, and pressed forward on the bridle-road. At nightfall I reached the "Washington Hotel," a log hut perched on the top of a partially-cleared hill; an immense amount of fluttering calico proclaimed that meals could be procured, but a glance at the interior was sufficient to destroy all appetite.  Round it, and stretching for yards, there were mules, drivers, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CROSSING THE ISTHMUS.</P>
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010.sgm:<P>And these latter were as drunken and as reckless a set of villains as one could see any where.  Stamped with vice and intemperance, without baggage or money, they were fit for robbery and murder to any extent; many of them, I doubt not, were used to it, and had found it convenient to leave a country where Judge Lynch strings up such fellows rather quicker than they like sometimes.  They foretold with a savage joy the miseries and disappointment that awaited all who landed there, forgetting that there traveled on the same road with them those who had in a very short space of time secured to themselves a competency by the exercise of industry, patience, and temperance. The Yankee owner of the Washington was "realizing some," judging from the prices he charged, and that every eatable had been consumed long before my arrival.  The "forty beds," respecting which we had met so many advertisements on the road, consisted of frames of wood five feet long, over which were simply stretched pieces of much-soiled canvas--they were in three tiers, and altogether occupied about the same space as would two four-posters: they were all occupied.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Wet with the thunder-storm, I took up my station <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:on a dead tree near the door, and as night closed in and the moon rose, awaited the arrival of my man and dogs with impatience.  Hours passed, and I felt convinced at last that fatigue had compelled Barnes to pass the night at a rancheria I had seen a few miles back. Rising to stretch my limbs, I became instantly aware of a succession of sharp stings in every part of my body; these became aggravated as I stamped and shook myself  In sitting on the dead tree, I had invaded the territory of a nest of ants of enormous size --larger than earwigs; they bit hard, and had sufficiently punished my intrusion before I managed to get rid of them.  During the night file upon file of mules arrived from Panama.  These were unloaded and turned adrift to seek their supper where they could; and travelers, muleteers, and luggage were spread in every direction round a large fire that had been lit in the early part of the evening.  Deserting my inhospitable tree, I found myself comfortable enough among a heap of pack-saddles, buried in which I slept till morning.  With the first streak of day every thing was moving; luggage was replaced on kicking mules; the sallow, wayworn, unwashed tenants of the "Washington," with what baggage they had on their backs, started for Gorgona on foot.  The morning oath came out fresh and racy from the lips of these disappointed gentlemen; nor could the bright and glorious sun reflect any beauty from their sunken, bloodshot eyes; when they disappeared in the winding road leading to Gorgona, it Wa quite a comfort to me to reflect that we were not about to honor the same country with our presence.  In less than an hour I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Through a tortuous path, which had been burrowed through the forest, we stumbled on at the rate of a mile and a half an hour; at times the space between the rocks on either side is too narrow to allow the mules to pass; in these instances all our efforts are directed to the mule that is jammed heaven knows how we get her clear--several shouts, some kicking, a plunge or two, a crash, and, the mule being free, proceeds on her path, while you stop to pick up the lid of your trunk, which has been ground off against the rock, as also the few trifles that tumble out from time to time in consequence.  And shortly afterward we meet more travelers homeward bound, some on foot, with a stout buckthorn stick and bundle, and others on mules, with shouldered rifles.  Each one, as I passed, asked me what state I was from, and if I came in the "Cherokee" steamer.  I had been questioned so much after this manner at the "Washington," that I began to think that to belong to a state and to arrive in the "Cherokee" would save me much trouble in answering questions, for my reply in the negative invariably led to the direct query of Where did I come from?  So along the road I surrendered myself invariably as a "Cherokee" passenger, and a native of Virginia, and was allowed to pass on in peace.  At last the country becomes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Pass on filth, squalor, and poverty, and make way as you should for wealth, for here, with tinkling bells and gay caparisons, comes a train, of mules laden with gold--pure gold from Peru; as each mule bears his massive bars uncovered, glittering beneath the cordage which secures them to the saddle, you can touch the metal as they pass.  Twenty of these file by as we draw on one side, and after them, guarding so much wealth, are half a dozen armed natives with rusty muskets slung lazily on their backs; but behind them, on an ambling jennet, is a well "got up" Don, with muslin shirt and polished jack-boots, richly-mounted pistols in his holsters, and massive silver spurs on his heels, smoking his cigarette with as much pomposity as if the gold belonged to him, and he had plenty more at home.  This gentleman, however, is in reality a clerk in an English house at Panama, and when he returns to that city, after shipping the gold on board the English steamer, and getting a receipt, he will change this picturesque costume for a plaid shooting-coat and continuations, and be a Don no longer.  As the gold train passed, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:thought, in contrast to its insecurity, of the villains I had parted from in the morning, all of whom were armed.  Then followed a train much larger than the first, and just as little guarded, carrying silver.  For years these specie trains have traveled in this unguarded state unmolested, <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
010.sgm: from the <HI REND="italics">primitive honesty</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The country became more open as we approached Panama, and when the town appeared in the distance, we had no shelter from the sun, and the dogs, panting and footsore, dragged on very slowly.  Here I found a man by the roadside attacked with fever, shivering with ague, and helpless.  He was going to Gorgona, but as he had no mule, he wished to return to Panama.  I hoisted him on to mine, and we proceeded; he was very ill, wandered in his speech, and shook like a leaf; and before we got into Panama, he died from exhaustion.  As I did not know what to do with him, I planted him by the roadside, and on my arrival at the town, I informed the authorities, and I presume they buried him.  Weary and sun-burnt, we arrived at the gates of the town, outside of which we found a large American encampment, in the midst of which we pitched our tent.  Every bed in the town had long before been pre-engaged, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Since Panama has become the half-way resting-place of Californian emigration, the old ruin has assumed quite a lively aspect.  Never were modern improvements so suddenly and so effectually applied to a dilapidated relic of former grandeur as here.  The streets present a vista of enormous sign-boards, and American flags droop from every house.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The main street is composed almost entirely of hotels, eating-houses, and "hells."  The old ruined houses have been patched up with whitewash and paint, and nothing remains unaltered but the cathedral.  This building is in what I believe is called the "early Spanish style," which in the Colonies is more remarkable for the tenacity with which mud bricks hold together, than for any architectural advantages. The principal features in connection with these ancient churches are the brass bells they contain, many of which are of handsome design; and these bells are forced on the notice of the visitor to Panama, inasmuch as being now all cracked, they emit a sound like that of a concert of tin-pots and saucepans.  At the corner of every street is a little turreted tower, from the top of which a small boy commences at sunrise to batter one of these discordant instruments, while from the belfries of the cathedral there issues a peal, to which, comparatively speaking, the din of a boiler manufactory is a treat.  If those bells fail to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:bring the people to church, at all events they allow them no peace out of it.  The streets are crowded day and night, for there are several thousand emigrants, waiting a passage to California.  Most of these people are of the lower class, and are not prepossessing under their present aspect; and many of them, having exhausted their means in the expenses of their detention, are leading a precarious life, which neither improves their manners or their personal appearance. Long gaunt fellows, armed to the teeth, line the streets on either side, or lounge about the drinking bars and gambling saloons; and among these there is quarreling and stabbing, and probably murder, before the night is out.  The more peaceably disposed are encamped outside the town, and avoid these ruffians as they would the plague; but the end of this, to the evil-disposed, is <HI REND="italics">delirium tremens</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It is nothing new to say that the Central Americans are an inert race, and that the inhabitants of New Granada, of Spanish blood, seem to assimilate in habits with the famous military garrison of Port Mahon, the members of which were too lazy to eat; for these people are too indolent to make money when it can be done with great rapidity and very little trouble, consequently, the advantages of the Californian emigration are entirely reaped by foreigners.  Not a <HI REND="italics">permanent</HI>
010.sgm: improvement has been added to the town, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>I must confess I felt great delight when we made the mountains at the entrance of San Francisco Bay; I had been cooped up for forty-five days on board a small barque, in company with one hundred and seventy-five passengers, of whom one hundred and sixty were noisy, quarrelsome, discontented, and dirty in the extreme.  I had secured, in company with two or three gentlemen, the after-cabin, and so far I was fortunate.  We had also bargained for the poop as a promenade, but those fellows would not go off it; so there would some of them sit all day, spitting tobacco juice, and picking their teeth with their knives. Occasionally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Quarrels were of daily occurrence; there was a great deal of knife-drawing and threatening, but no <HI REND="italics">bloodshed</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It requires a dram or two even for these ferocious gentry to conquer their natural repugnance to a contest with cold steel; and I may remark here that on first finding himself among a swaggering set of bullies armed to the teeth, the traveler is apt to imagine that he is surrounded by those who acknowledge no law, have no fear of personal danger, and who will resent all interference; but a closer acquaintance dispels this illusion, and the observing voyager soon finds that he can resent a man's treading on his toes none the less that the aggressor carries a jack-knife and revolver. One Sunday during our voyage we were addressed spiritually by a minister who dissented from every known doctrine, and whose discourses were of that nature that rob sacred subjects of their gravity.</P>
010.sgm:<P>He shed tears on these occasions with remarkable facility; but under ordinary circumstances, I should imagine him not to have been sensitive in this respect, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:as I overheard him during the voyage threaten to "rip up the ship's cook's guts," and he carried a knife with him in every way adapted for the contemplated operation.  Under all circumstances I was very glad when the land about San Francisco Bay appeared in sight. The morning was lovely; and it needs, by the way a little sunshine to give a cheerful look to the ragged cliffs and round, gravelly, grass-less hills, that extend on either side of the bay.  In foggy weather their appearance is quite disheartening to the stranger, an causes him to sail up to the anchorage with misgiving in general respecting the country. Quarrels were nol forgotten, and each heart beat high with expectation, for now was in sight that for which many had led wives and children, farms and homesteads, in hope of course, of something better in a land so favored as undoubtedly was this before us.  But hope as we wi our best, fear and doubt will creep in; and who know what blanches the cheek of yonder man!  Is it the exhilaration consequent on reaching a goal where certain reward awaits him? or is it a lurking fear that all may <HI REND="italics">prove illusion</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It is a more intense feeling, perhaps, than that a the man who sees before him the card which carries on its downward side his ruin or his fortune; for the gambler can not, if he would, find any stake against which to risk the happiness of wife and children, the affections of a well-loved home, and the <HI REND="italics">chance</HI>
010.sgm: of misery and speedy death in an unknown land. Such the emigrant knows to have been the lot of thousands who have gone before him; but he has also heard of rich "pockets" and "great strikes," of fortunes made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>As we open the bay, we observe dense masses of smoke rolling to leeward; the town and shipping are almost undistinguishable, for we have arrived at the moment of the great June Fire of 1850, and San Francisco is again in ashes!</P>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>A Great Country.--Improvement.--Adventurers.--Drinking-saloons.--The old Judge.--Banks.--Mine Speculators.--Gambling-houses.--"Don't Shoot."--Climate.--High and Dry</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
010.sgm:<P>THE fire was fast subsiding; and as the embers died away, and the heavy smoke rolled off to leeward, the site of the conflagration was plainly marked out to the spectator like a great black chart.  There is nothing particularly impressive in the scene, for although four hundred houses have been destroyed, they were but of wood, or thin sheet-iron, and the "devouring element" has made a clean sweep Of every thing, except a few brick chimneys and iron pots.  Every body seems in good-humor, and there is no reason why the stranger, who has lost nothing by the calamity, should allow himself to be plunged into melancholy reflections!  Planks and lumber are already being carted in all directions, and so soon as the embers cool, the work of rebuilding will commence.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I found it amusing next day to walk over the ground and observe the effects of the intense heat on the articles which were strewed around.  Gun-barrels were twisted and knotted like snakes; there were tons of nails welded together by the heat, standing in the shape of the kegs which had contained them; small lakes of molten glass of all the colors of the rainbow; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>On the "lot" where I had observed the remains of gun-barrels and nails, stands its late proprietor, Mr. Jones, who is giving directions to a master-carpenter, or "boss," for the rebuilding of a new store, the materials for which are already on the spot.  The carpenter promises to get every thing "fixed right off," and have the store ready in two days.  At this juncture passes Mr. Smith, also in company with a cargo of building materials; he was the owner of the iron house; he says to Jones, interrogatively-</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">"Burnt</HI>
010.sgm:<P>JONES. "Yes, and <HI REND="italics">burst up</HI>
010.sgm:<P>JONES.  "Flat as a d--d pancake!</P>
010.sgm:<P>SMITH. "It's a great country."</P>
010.sgm:<P>JONES. "It's nothing shorter."</P>
010.sgm:<P>And in a couple of days both Smith and Jones are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>This fire was attributed to incendiarism, but when the general carelessness that existed is considered, it is quite as probable that it resulted from accident. It is much to be regretted that these fires did not sweep off the gambling-houses; but these buildings were now constructed of brick, and were tolerably well secured against all risk.  When the burnt portion of the city was again covered with buildings, I had an opportunity of judging of the enormous strides the place had made since two years back, when it was, by all accounts, a settlement of tents.  Three fires had checked its growth in this short space; but a daring confidence had laughed as it were at these obstacles, and any one who knew human nature might see, that so long as that spirit of energy animated every breast, the city would increase in size and wealth, in spite even of conflagrations so calamitous. For though many individually are ruined by the flames, and are forced to retire from the field, yet in a small community where all are armed with strong determination, the vacant ranks are soon filled up again, and, shoulder to shoulder, all march on in unity of purpose, and gain the victory at last, though at ever so great a sacrifice.  Twelve months back there was little else but canvas tents here, and a small, shifting, restless, gambling population: who was it then, when all looked <HI REND="italics">uncertain in the future</HI>
010.sgm:, that sent away so many thousand miles for steam excavators, and tramways, and railway trucks? who were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:those, again, who sent from this hamlet of shanties for all the material for large foundries of iron and brass, for blocks of granite, bricks, and mortar, for pile-drivers and steamboats?   I don't know--but these things all arrived; and now, in eighteen hundred and fifty, the sand-hills tumble down as if by magic, and are carried to the water's edge on a railroad where the pile-drivers are at work, and confine them to the new position assigned them on a water lot.  The clang of foundries is heard on all sides, as machinery is manufactured for the mines-brick buildings are springing up in the principal thoroughfares, steamers crowd the rivers, and thousands of men are blasting out huge masses of rock to make space for the rapid strides of this ambitious young city.  The better portion of the population of San Francisco in eighteen hundred and fifty, may be said to have consisted of adventurers; these were of all nations, the Americans being in the proportion of about one-third. Many people object to the term adventurer, as one that has been generally associated with a class who travel with scanty purses and easy consciences.  But Johnson defines an adventurer as "one who hazards a chance;" and when we consider that the population here have to a man almost made sacrifices elsewhere, in hopes of the speedier reward held out by the vicinity of these vast gold-fields, the term is not misapplied. Neither is it one that should ever carry opprobrium; while fresh countries remain to be explored, and facilities of communication are daily increasing, I have no objection to call myself an adventurer, and wish that I had been one of those fortunate ones who conferred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:a vast benefit upon mankind (and secured <HI REND="italics">moderate advantages for themselves)</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The stranger in San Francisco at this time is at once impressed with the feverish state of excitement that pervades the whole population; there is no attention paid to dress, and every one is hurried and incoherent in manner.   Clubs, reading-rooms, and the society of women are unknown; and from the harassing duties of the day's business, there is nothing to turn to for recreation but the drinking-saloons and gambling-houses, and here nightly all the population meet.  Where the commerce engaged in fluctuates with every hour, and profit and loss are not matters of calculation, but chance--where all have hung their fortunes on a die, and few are of that class who bring strong principles to bear upon conduct that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Drinking is carried on to an incredible extent here; not that there is much drunkenness, but a vast quantity of liquor is daily consumed.</P>
010.sgm:<P>From the time the habitual drinker in San Francisco takes his morning gin-cocktail to stimulate an appetite for breakfast, he supplies himself at intervals throughout the day with an indefinite number of racy little spirituous compounds, that have the effect of keeping him always more or less primed.  And where saloons line the streets, and you can not meet a friend, or make a new acquaintance, or strike a bargain, without an invitation to drink, which amounts to a command; and when the days are hot, and you see men issuing from the saloons licking their lips after their iced mint juleps; and where Brown, who has a party with him, meets you as he enters the saloon, and says, "Join us!" and where it is the fashion to accept such invitations, and rude to refuse them, what can a thirsty man do?  The better description of drinking-bars are fitted up with great taste, and at enormous expense.  Order and quiet are preserved within them during the day; they are generally supplied with periodicals and newspapers, and business assignations are made and held in them at all hours.  Every body in the place is generous and lavish of money; and perhaps one reason for so many drinks being consumed is in the fact that there is ever some liberal soul who is not content until he has ranged some twenty of his acquaintances <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:at the bar; and when each one is supplied with a "drink," he says, "My respects gentlemen!" and the twenty heads being simultaneously thrown back, down go "straight brandies," "Queen-Charlottes," "stone-fences," "Champagne-cocktails," and "sulky sangarees," while the liberal entertainer discharges the score, and each one hurries off to his business. There is no one in such a hurry as a Californian, but he has always time to take a drink.  There is generally a sprinkling of idlers hanging about these saloons, waiting for any chance that may turn up to their benefit; and particularly that of being included in the general invitation of "drinks for the crowd," which is from time to time extended by some elated gentleman during the day.  These hangers-on are called "loafers."  There is a story told of an old judge in the southern part of the country, who was an habitual frequenter of the bar-room, and who, with his rich mellow voice, would exclaim, "Come, let's all take a drink!"  Gladly the loafers would surround the bar, and each would call for his favorite beverage; but when all was finished, the judge would observe, " <HI REND="italics">And now let's all pay for it !</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Perhaps in no other community so limited could one find so many well-informed and clever men--men of all nations, who have added the advantages of traveling to natural abilities and a liberal education. Most of these are young, and are among the most reckless, perhaps, just now; but by-and-by, when this fever of dissipation has given way to better impulses, these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The banks of San Francisco are naturally important, as being the depositories of the wealth that thousands are hourly accumulating on the rich "placer" fields.  These buildings are of brick, and have fireproof cellars; and although at the time they were erected the outlay was enormous, both for material and labor, it was a mere trifle in comparison with the profits of their owners.  The banks line one side of Montgomery Street, the principal thoroughfare of the city; and as the space on all sides has been entirely cleared for some distance by the fire, this row of buildings stands alone just now and solitary, like the speculative "Terrace" with "extensive marine view," that fronts an unpopular watering-place in England.  At the corner of a street is Burgoyne's Bank; you enter and find it very crowded, and full of tobacco-smoke.  Instead of the chinking of money, you hear a succession of thumps on the counter, as the large leathern bags of gold-dust come down on it.  Some of the clerks are weighing dust, some are extracting the black sand with a magnet, and others are packing it in bags and boxes.  The depositors are, generally speaking, miners who have come down from the diggings-fellows with long beards and jack-boots, and of an unwashed appearance, for the most part.  However, many of these are not, by any means, what they seem.  They have just arrived, perhaps, from a toilsome, dusty journey, and deposit their gold as a first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:precaution and before the evening they will have been metamorphosed into very respectable-looking members of society, and will remain so until they return again to the diggings.  Large blocks of quartz lie about the room, in all of which are rich veins of gold.  These have been sent down from the mountains to be assayed; and the rich yield that these solitary specimens afforded, led, some time afterward, to a great deal of very ruinous speculation; for it had been represented that these specimens were average samples of great veins; and it was only when money had been expended in large sums, that it was discovered that these rich morsels were merely accidental deposits of gold, and by no means indicated the value of the veins.  A few rich lumps were brought to England, and, by a little judicious handling, and a few public dinners, were turned to good account; and nothing but the bungling stupidity of some of those who were sent here to <HI REND="italics">pull the wires</HI>
010.sgm:<P>There are no public lamps in the town, at this time, so that the greater part of it is admirably adapted for that portion of the population who gain their livelihood by robbery, and <HI REND="italics">murder</HI>
010.sgm: in those eases where people object to being robbed.  But Commercial Street, which is composed entirely of saloons, is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Near the centre of the town is a square, which, in common with many other things in the country, retains its Spanish appellation, and is called the "Plaza;" two sides of this are occupied by brick buildings, devoted solely to gambling.   We have the "Veranda," "El Dorado," "Parker House," "Empire," "Rendezvous," and "Bella Union;" in one row.  Most of these establishments belong to companies, for the amount of capital required is very large.  One or two of the houses are under French superintendence; companies having been formed in Paris, who openly avowed their object in the prospectus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:they issued.  On entering one of these saloons the eye is dazzled almost by the brilliancy of chandeliers and mirrors.  The roof, rich with gilt-work, is supported by pillars of glass; and the walls are hung with French paintings of great merit, but of which female nudity forms alone the subject.  The crowd of Mexicans, Miners, Niggers, and Irish brick-layers, through which with difficulty you force a way, look dirtier (although there is no need of this) from contrast with the brilliant decorations.  Green tables are scattered over the room, at each of which sit two "monte" dealers surrounded by a betting crowd. The centres of the tables are covered with gold ounces and rich specimens from the diggings, and these heaps accumulate very rapidly in the course of the evening, for "monte," as played by these dexterous dealers, leaves little chance for the staker to win.  The thin Spanish cards alone are used, and although the dealer is intently watched by a hundred eyes, whose owners, in revenge for having lost, would gladly detect a cheat, and fall upon him and tear him to pieces, yet are these eyes no match for his dexterous fingers, and the savage scrutiny with which he is assailed as his partner rakes in the stakes produces no emotion on his pale unimpassioned face.  The duty of a "monte" dealer is one of great difficulty; although surrounded by a clamorous crowd, and the clang of music, his head is occupied by intricate calculations, his eyes are watchfully (though apparently carelessly) scanning the faces that surround his table, yet they appear to be riveted to his cards; he has, in the presence of vigilant observers, to execute feats, the detection of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BAR-ROOM IN CALIFORNIA</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>There is no limit to the introductions one is subjected to in a Californian crowd.  If the "monte" dealer rises from his chair, you will probably be introduced to him, and I had the honor Of shaking hands with a murderer quite fresh from his work, who had been acquitted a day or two previously by bribing the judge, jury, and the witnesses against him.  I should have declined the honor had I learnt his profession with his name, but custom insists on your shaking hands on being introduced to a fellow-mortal; and to refuse to do so is tacitly to deny one of the great principles of the model republic, which holds that "one man is as good as another;" and, as I heard a democratic Irishman observe, "a <HI REND="italics">d--d sight better</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Amidst all the din and turmoil of the crowd, and the noisy music that issues from every comer, two or three reports of a pistol will occasionally startle the stranger, particularly if they should happen to be in his immediate vicinity, and a bullet should (as is not uncommon) whistle past his head, and crack the mirror on the other side of him.  There is a general row for a few moments; spectators secure themselves behind pillars and under the bar; there is a general exclamation of "don't shoot," which means, of course, "don't shoot till we get out of the way;" but after the first discharges the excitement settles down, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:the suspended games are resumed.  A wounded man is carried out, but whether it is a "monte" dealer who has shot a player, or one gentleman who has draw on another gentleman, in the heat of altercation, one does not learn that night, but it will appear in the morning paper; if the former, it will be headed <HI REND="italics">"Murderous affray</HI>
010.sgm:;" if the latter, "Unfortunate <HI REND="italics">difficulty</HI>
010.sgm:."  There are different names for the same thing, even a democratic colony!  The climate of California very healthy; there is a tendency in it to intermittent fever and ague in some parts of the mountains; bi in the mines, sickness has generally resulted from imprudent exposure, and the drinking of the worst possible description of ardent spirits.  On the sea coast and at San Francisco, the weather is very changeable during the summer months.  When the sun rises and clears away the fog that hangs over the Bay, the air is as pure and transparent as that c Naples; by noon the glass is at 90&deg;, and then the sea breeze sets in, and would be welcome, but that does not fan one gently like other sea breezes, bi bursts on you with the force of a hurricane, blows o: a bit of the roof of your house, and sends the fig dust in whirling clouds along the street, in such way that the people would profit by lying down flu on their stomachs, as they do in a regular Simoom! As the sun goes down the "doctor" subsides, aft having done a great deal of good in airing the town, which as yet is unprovided with sewers.  Then the creeps in steadily a heavy, fat fog, which takes up i quarters in the Bay every night, and disappears before mentioned when the sun rises--under whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HIGH AND DRY</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>These varieties of temperature during some months are methodically regular, but are not productive of sickness of any kind.  The front of the city is extending rapidly into the sea, as water-lots are filled up with the sand-hills which the steam excavators remove.  This has left many of the old ships, that a year ago were beached as storehouses, in a curious position; for the filled-up space that surrounds them has been built on for some distance, and new streets run between them and the sea, so that a stranger puzzles himself for some time to ascertain how the "Apollo" and "Niantic" became perched in the middle of a street; for although he has heard of ships being thrown up "high and dry," he has probably sufficient nautical experience to observe that the degree of "height" and "dryness" enjoyed by the "Apollo" and "Niantic" resulted from some other cause than the "fury of the gale."  Leaving San Francisco for the present, to return to it again by-and-by and watch its growth and improvement, I got all ready for a start for Benicia, a little town on the Bay, from whence I intended to travel leisurely to Russian River.  I had chosen this district as it abounded in game; and was in quite an opposite direction to the diggings--a visit to which I postponed until the ensuing summer, my object for the present being to encamp myself in some snug place in the mountains, and there live upon my gun, in all the enjoyment of a free life and the pleasures of the chase.</P>
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010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Benicia.--Barnes.--A mad Blood-hound.--His Death.--Grasshoppers. --Don Raymond.--A Blessed City.--Wicked Mules.--"Camping out."--Napa.--Fourth of July.--Agriculturists.--Sonoma.--Competition.--An Irascible Bull</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
010.sgm:<P>GREAT labor and capital have been expended on the wharves of San Francisco; there is little space left between these, and ships ride at their sides, and discharge their cargoes with as much rapidity and comfort as if they were in dock.  The central wharf is nearly a mile in length, and from the end of this the river steamboats take their departure every day at four o'clock.  At these times the wharf is always densely crowded, and it has always seemed strange to me that this every-day occurrence attracts a crowd without fail, although directly the boats are off, every man runs back to the city as if he had forgotten something.  Perhaps they come down on the chance of an explosion, in which they are occasionally gratified; whether or no, there must be some great attraction, for these curious people have to walk a mile to get there, and run a mile to get back!  The "Senator" was our boat, and with one leg on board of her and the other buried in this observing crowd, I had to work briskly to get my provender on board-sacks of potatoes and flour, dogs, rifles, shovels, and pick-axes, were handed in with astonishing celerity, considering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>In two hours we arrived at Benicia, and the steamer ran alongside of an old hulk connected by a gang-way with the shore.  Through the unusual degree of Yankee nautical smartness shown on this occasion, I lost some bags of potatoes; for the boat had scarcely touched the hulk, than we were driven out of it, carrying all we could, and the word was given to "go a-head" again, the gang-board was hauled in, our potatoes were still on board, there was no time for expostulation, and away steamed the "Senator," while we gazed dreamily at her receding hull, rapt in admiration at the general smartness that evidently surrounded us.  Benicia is a city in embryo: there is ample room for building, for in every direction extend undulating hills, covered with wild oats, but unobstructed by timber, of which none can be found within many miles.  But the natural advantages of this spot have not been embraced by the public, for one reason, that the opposite town of Martinez is more fortunately planted among groves of trees; and for another, that no one requires a town in this particular part of the world.  So Benicia is a failure just now; and instead of raising an imposing front, in evidence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Barnes had been a desperate poacher, but for years past had distinguished himself equally as keeper on my father's estate.  He was a good-natured, willing fellow, possessed of enormous physical strength, and could throw a stone with such force and precision, that he had been equally avoided by the keepers when he was a poacher, and by the poachers when he deserted their ranks, which he did, as many others would, the moment the chance was offered him of making his bread honestly.  My dogs consisted of two blood-hounds of the breed of Mr. Hammond of Norfolk--Prince and Birkham--the latter was of great beauty, but of very uncertain temper.  A large half-bred Scotch slot-hound, called Cromer, completed the list-this latter had an unfailing nose and great intelligence, and was a perfect retriever in or out of water.  An introductory note to an American gentleman who resided in one of the wooden houses that straggled over the hills, insured me much civility, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I never witnessed any sight so dreadful as this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Immense quantities of grasshoppers are to be found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I had great difficulty in procuring the mules I required for my journey, and these I could only hire, as a report of the discovery of a "Gold Lake" somewhere in the mining districts had taken deep root, and all the Benicia mules had been called into requisition. A fine dashing-looking Spaniard rode up to my tent one day in company with the gentleman who had interested himself to get me mules;<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">Captain J. B. Frisbie.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>Many of the native Californians whose ancestors emigrated from Mexico, have good Spanish blood in their veins; they are a robust and well-favored race, and probably in this respect have much improved the original breed, which is all blood and bone.  Don Raymond was a striking-looking fellow, well built and muscular, with regular features, half concealed by his long black hair and beard.  The loose Spanish dress the heavy iron spurs, the lasso hanging from the saddle, and the gaunt but fiery colt on which he was mounted, were all for work and little for show; probably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:the whole turn-out, including the horse, was not worth twenty dollars; but he was more picturesque in his mountain costume, than the best Andalusian that ever got himself up in gold lace and silver buttons for "bolero" or "bull-fight."  Don Raymond not only offered to send mules to convey ourselves and baggage to Santa Rosa, but most hospitably invited us to remain at his "ranche" until we could with his assistance purchase the animals we required. While we were at Benicia the fourth of July, the anniversary of American Independence, came round; had Benicia been the city it was intended to be, what an opportunity would there not have been for the celebration of this day.  Looking at the plan now before me, I can imagine the <HI REND="italics">Botanical Gardens</HI>
010.sgm: thronged with holiday people, while the mayor and corporation having reviewed the troops in front of the <HI REND="italics">City Hall</HI>
010.sgm:, are now inspecting the <HI REND="italics">Infirmary for the Blind</HI>
010.sgm:, which (in the plan) occupies a position to the extreme right; fire-works echo in the "Plaza," while the theatre opens its doors to an eager crowd, and the town pump is surrounded by little boys; but unfortunately Benicia is not far enough advanced to enable us to realize this scene.  "The gardens" produce as yet but wild oats; the theatre is one unchanging scene of parched-up desolation; the town pump is not; and of the "Plaza" no one knows the limits, for some of the oldest inhabitants, in happy ignorance of the fate of those who "remove their neighbor's landmarks," have pulled up the surveyor's pegs and basely used them for firewood; but they say that Benicia will do better by-and-by.  The plan is named after the wife of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:General Vallejo, and signifies "Blessed," and rather appropriately, as under present circumstances the proprietors are incorporated among those who are spoken of as being blessed if they expect nothing.  Shortly afterward, there arrived from Don Raymond eight mules, in charge of a young Californian "Vaccaro"<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">From Vacca or Vaca--cow. </NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>Don Raymond had stated frankly that he had no pack mules that had not been turned out for a time with the wild horses; and those he had sent us, though fine, strong beasts, were, undoubtedly, very little tamer than fresh-caught zebras.  The first mule having been brought forward with some difficulty, a cloth was tied round his eyes, and he remained perfectly still while the loading was performed with great dexterity and expedition by the "vaccaro" and one or two assistants.  When all were packed, the blinds were taken from the mules' eyes, and without any hesitation, and perfectly regardless of the white mare, who walked quietly toward home, away they scampered through the long grass, kicking and screaming.  Here goes a tin kettle, there a ham, now a bag of flour falls out and bursts, and the place is strewed with the relics of our commissariat stores.  Two mules, followed by the "vaccaro," have disappeared behind the hills, where the sun is disappearing also. Number three is motionless; for, not having succeeded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>When about twelve miles from Benicia we halted to encamp for the night at a clump of trees-the first we had seen since landing.  We had "carte blanche" to shoot a calf whenever our necessities required, from among the droves of tame cattle with which the plains on our route were well stocked.  Our first object on halting was to avail ourselves of this permission; and it being too dark to kill with the rifle, our "vaccaro" brought in a calf with his lasso, as soon as the mules had been unpacked and turned off to feed.  We had no occasion for the tent, the night air was so pure and mild; so we sat half buried in the tall soft grass-a bed of down from which nothing could have roused us but the grateful smell of the calf's ribs as they roasted by our bright camp fire.  As long as it lasted, our sleep was delicious; but it was interrupted most unseasonably, about the middle of the night, by the yells of a pack of "coyotes" (a kind of jackal) that had collected round the remains of the calf.</P>
010.sgm:<P>These beasts had the audacity to approach us within <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>On approaching Napa, which is distant from Benicia about twenty miles, we entered a very beautiful valley, about three miles in breadth, studded with oak trees, and bounded on either side by mountains that rose abruptly from the plain, and whose summits were crested with heavy masses of the redwood tree and white pine.  As yet there was no sign of cultivation or inclosure, nor did we see a dwelling-house until the village of Napa appeared in sight.  But the whole of this rich and fertile valley was shortly to be made productive; and it was to supply the wants of the many settlers, who were now on the eve of improving this wild tract, that the little bunch of houses called "Napa City" had sprung into existence.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We had to cross a small stream in a ferry-boat to enter Napa, and we found the little place in a very lively state.  Music was playing, the stars and stripes were waving from each house, while the street was thronged with people. The outside settlers had come <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:in to celebrate their fourth of July; it was now the fifth, and they were in the thick of it, and there was to be a "ball" in the evening.  At twelve o'clock they prepared to fire a salute from three old honey-combed cannons that had probably been fished up out of the river; whether or no, a serious accident immediately occurred--the first gun fired exploded like a shell, blowing off the arm of one man and destroying the sight of another, besides peppering the spectators more or less seriously.  This damped temporarily the pleasure of the afternoon, but the public dinner, which took place under an enormous booth, seemed to restore cheerfulness.  The settlers were nearly all "Western people," small farmers from Missouri, arid other Western states, who emigrated with a wife and half a dozen children to California in search of good land, on this they <HI REND="italics">squat</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The soil here is admirably adapted for the growth of wheat, barley, and potatoes; and although the price of labor is so great  that these immigratory agriculturists, having little or no capital, can only till a patch of land at first, yet so rare a luxury as yet is a vegetable, that large profits attend their earliest efforts, and the settler of these valleys, if prudent, is a rising man from the moment his spade first raises the virgin sod.</P>
010.sgm:<P>During the day a Mexican tight-rope dancer performed to the crowd: I considered him rather a bungler at his work, but my opinion was not shared by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:the spectators, one of whom, an old farmer, "kinder reckoned it was <HI REND="italics">supernatural</HI>
010.sgm:<P>I did not wait for the "ball," as I wished to reach Sonoma that night, the luggage having gone on.  On our first arrival at the Creek, the ferryman, who was an American, had refused all toll on the strength of the "Anniversary."  We could not but admire such a striking instance of real charity, as it enabled many of the surrounding farmers to cross over with their numerous families, which at the rate of one dollar for each person they could not have afforded to do. But there was nothing said about going back for nothing, and our Yankee friend having succeeded in filling the village gratis, had now the satisfaction of emptying it at a dollar a-head.  So there they were like the nephew of "Gil Perez," caught like a rat in a trap.  The scenery still improves in beauty as we approach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>General Vallejo, a native Californian, who is owner of a large portion of the surrounding valley, resides at Sonoma; he took part in some skirmishing which occurred, previous to the cession of California to the United States, between the natives and a handful of adventurers, who hoisted a flag with a Grizzly Bear on it, and took the field under that standard.  The General was also on one occasion taken prisoner, and perhaps it was during his term of incarceration that he designed a tall square building, which he afterward erected here, of mud bricks, and which is now the principal feature of the place; as the General informs his friends that this was intended for a fortress, they take his word for it, though it has neither guns or embrasures.  Overlooked by the fortress is a quadrangle of mud huts; these are now converted into stores, intended to supply the farmers who are fast settling on the surrounding plains.</P>
010.sgm:<P>But there are too many stores in Sonoma; there are so many people in California who can only live by keeping small retail shops, that directly a good opening for making money in this way appears, there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:is a regular rush of small speculators in soap anal candles, who all arrive at the desired spot about the same time, each one undoubtedly congratulating himself that <HI REND="italics">he alone</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Brown is a clever fellow, and says to himself, Coals will be very scarce next fall--I'll write for coals: every one else being as clever as Brown, writes for coals from the same motives, and the spring sees coals tumbling in on all sides: or Brown says, every body will be writing for coals for the spring, I shall advise my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>We pitched our tents outside the fortress; and the only event that occurred worthy of notice, was in the fact of an enormous bull making a clean bolt at it, about the middle of the night.  The moon was up, and I presume its reflection on the white canvas annoyed him.  He annoyed us excessively; for he not only tore down the tent, but we narrowly escaped being trodden upon.  As he stood in the bright moonlight, pawing the ground at a short distance, meditating another charge at us, I shot him in the head, and he fell, never again to rouse honest gentlemen from their sleep in the dead of night, or wantonly to destroy private property for the gratification of a senseless animosity.</P>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Spanish Grants.--Squatters.--Squatter Fights.--A Spanish Ranche. --Good Quarters.--Fleas.--Vanity.--Vaccaros.--Quilp.--English Saddles.--Antelope Hunt.--Rattlesnakes.--Quilp Waltzes.--Californian Horses.--Saddles.--Horse-breaking.--A Tame Horse.</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
010.sgm:<P>LEAVING Sonoma at daylight, we passed through the Sonoma Valley, which, in many places, but a few hundred yards in width, and studded with groups of oaks and flowering evergreens, has all the appearance of a private park bounded by mountains-the herds of deer, of which now and then we catch a glimpse, strengthening this resemblance.  After following the trail for fifteen miles, we ascended a rise from which we had a view of Santa Rosa Valley.  It was a continuation of that we had traversed, and was divided from it only by a small stream, which marked the boundary of either.  From our elevation, the twenty miles of well-timbered land, of which Don Raymond was owner, lay stretched before us-large herds of cattle were grazing on the plain, and near the mountains which bounded the ranche, "ma&ntilde;adas" of wild horses could be perceived, with here and there a drove of elk or antelopes.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Previous to the occupation of this country by the Americans, its fertile plains had been granted away by the Mexican government, to such as chose to settle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>By the treaty formed between the United States and Mexico previous to the occupation of California, the original Spanish grants of land were guaranteed to the native settlers in all cases where the claim could be properly established.  A commission to inquire into these land-claims was appointed by the United States government, and its labors still continue.  The Americans, therefore, on their arrival in the country, had the mortification to discover that nearly every foot of arable land was private property, and that there remained nothing but barren hills and swamps to settle on and improve, under the pre-emption laws of the United States. They therefore <HI REND="italics">squatted</HI>
010.sgm: where they pleased on the Spanish ranches, under the plea that the land commissioners <HI REND="italics">might</HI>
010.sgm: decide the grant on which they were to be illegal; but, in reality, because each man wanted a piece of land and was determined to have it--the Spanish owners being powerless to dispossess them of the part they chose to select.  The consequence is, that even now, in "eight-teen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The squatters in the vicinity of Sacramento City organized themselves into a banditti, and fought "en masse" in defense of their stolen property; but they had made the great mistake of squatting on land that belonged to Americans; these latter sallied from the city with the mayor at their head, and the squatters were defeated, and retired with loss, leaving some dead on the field--not, however, without riddling.the mayor, who behaved with great courage, and who must have been much damaged, as the cost of repairing him, when sent in to government by his medical attendant, amounted to about two thousand pounds sterling.  But as there are reasonable men among all classes, so among the squatters are to be found many who are willing to purchase their claims, conditionally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Hundreds have settled down quietly on land from which the present owners are unwilling or unable to dislodge them.  These men will raise around them permanent improvements, and will look to the few acres of land they have inclosed for a livelihood for themselves and families; a year or two hence, perhaps, the land they have appropriated will change hands, and the new purchaser will ask his belligerent friends down, as I have witnessed more than once, to stay at his house and help him to <HI REND="italics">"turn off the squatters</HI>
010.sgm:."  Down go the friends and take their fire-arms, as coolly as if they were accepting an invitation to a week's partridge shooting.  Occasionally when the proprietor and his friends, armed to the teeth, present themselves at the door of a squatter's log-hut, they find the owner surrounded by <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
010.sgm:<P>We dismounted at the door of a long, low "adobe"<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm: house, where we were met and hospitably greeted by Don Raymond. Having much refreshed ourselves by bathing in the rivulet which ran past the house, we were rejoiced to find that our host had prepared a dinner, for of this we were in need; and while we ate, a couple of Indian girls tickled our ears and noses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">Sun-dried brick.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>In the course of my experience I have been tortured by sand-flies in the Eastern Archipelago, and have made acquaintance with every kind of mosquito, from Malta to Acapulco, including, of course, the famous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>But, as a general rule, the Californian houses are alive with fleas; they thrive in the cracks of the mud-brick walls and in the hides with which these places are always strewed.  No pains are taken to eject them, and Don Raymond remarked, on our mentioning the fact, that we should get used to them; he and his family never gave the little "malditos" a thought.</P>
010.sgm:<P>After an early breakfast of "tortillas" and fresh milk we commenced at once to look up our shooting gear.  Close to us, on one side, was a marsh full of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>So that even among these most primitive of agriculturists vanity of possession stands uppermost in all its vulgarity; what has this man, I thought, to show me but a tract of land, rich certainly in nature's gifts, but in which his only pride consists that <HI REND="italics">he owns</HI>
010.sgm: it?  I could have seen it much better by myself when walking over it, but to please his egotism I must admire it <HI REND="italics">his way</HI>
010.sgm: and sacrifice my own pleasure; but how I hugged myself when I considered that here at least were no fat pigs, no model styes, with which to bore one; no oatcake-fed bullocks to be measured with a cambric pocket-handkerchief and praised, while you held your nose; not even a heap of "compo-manure" to sit and gloat over.  At the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VACCARO AND INDIAN.</P>
010.sgm:<P>In front of the house was a court-yard of considerable extent, and part of this was sheltered by a porch. Here, when the "vaccaros" have nothing to call them to the field, they pass the day, looking like retainers of a rude court.  A dozen wild, vicious little horses, with rough wooden saddles on their backs, stand ever ready for work; while lounging about, the "vaccaros" smoke, play the guitar, or twist up a new "riatta"<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm: of hide or horse-hair.  When the sun gets warm they go to sleep in the shade, while the little horses, who remain in the sunshine, do the same apparently, for they shut their eyes and never stir.  Presently a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">Lasso.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>We found great bustle and preparation going on in the court-yard when we rose: it was full of horses and "vaccaros;" and some neighboring ranche owners having arrived, their horses, which were handsome and of large size, were standing near the house, champing their bits.   The saddles and bridles of these were ornamented with silver, and the stirrup-leathers were covered with bear skins in such a way as to form a very secure armor for the legs against the attacks of wild cattle.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Breakfast over, the Spanish guests were introduced; they were all fine dashing-looking fellows, with the exception of one, a short stout man; from the first moment of our meeting war was tacitly declared between us and this gentleman.  We found that he was a suitor for the hand of the eldest sister, who, by the way, owned a part of the ranche, and I suppose he imagined it was our intention to contest this prize <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:with him; for he commenced at once to show his disapprobation of our presence.  We called this fellow Quilp.  Each of the party had his horse waiting in readiness-ours had yet to be selected from a drove of about a hundred, which were inclosed in a "corral," or circular inclosure, that was close by the house.  The wild horses of the country generally are small--of these I shall speak by-and-by-but Don Raymond, who took the lead among the <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
010.sgm:<P>"You English ride?" asked Raymond.  I replied modestly, that we rode a little sometimes, as I knew that the slightest approach to assurance on my part would be the signal for a wild stallion being selected for my accommodation.  However, Raymond picked us out two high-spirited, but broken-in beasts, that seemed about as well behaved as any that were there. When they were brought into the court, and blinded as usual, Thomas and I produced and girthed up our English saddles, on which we had ridden up from Benicia; we were immediately surrounded by the whole crowd of guests and "vaccaros."  Bah! those were not saddles-there was no horn to which to fasten the lasso-the stirrups did not protect the foot and leg when the horse fell down and rolled over you!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I had but one rifle I could carry on horseback, so slinging that on my back, away we went, and as the horses warmed under their exercise, and we shook ourselves into our seats, I observed with pleasure that Thomas was both sitting and handling his horse well, and took the fallen timber that came in our way in capital style.  However, to shorten this part of the story, the Spaniards soon became less bumptious on the subject, and we flew over the plain at great speed.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Before long we saw a herd of antelope grazing at some distance, and the Spaniards pulled up and prepared their lassos.  The antelope at this time of the year are very fat, and comparatively speaking do not run, or bound rather, fast through the long grass, so that if headed there is a <HI REND="italics">chance</HI>
010.sgm: for an expert horseman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>When we were well ahead of them, the drove started at the sight of the "vaccaros," and a few strides of our horses brought some of us right in the line they were taking; my foot had scarcely left the stirrup when they flew past with rapid bounds.  Don Raymond spurred at the headmost bucks, but his lasso fell short; three does brought up the rear; at one of these I fired and wounded it, but it plunged into the thicket with the rest.  Seeing that nothing had fallen to the report of the rifle, the Spaniards now went slowly homeward; while I searched the thicket and found my doe dying within a few hundred yards.  Raymond returned for us, and leaving the venison in charge of the "vaccaros," we rode home.   On the way I succeeded in explaining to Raymond that we preferred hunting the deer on foot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Raymond now, for the first time, pointed out to me that the rattlesnakes were very abundant in the valley, and this we afterward discovered to be true.  It destroyed in a great measure the pleasure of our sport, for we lost many a good shot from looking on the ground--which men are apt to do occasionally when once satisfied of the existence of a venomous reptile, the bite of which is by all accounts mortal. The rattlesnake is seldom seen; it glides away through the long grass on the approach of man or beast, and for this reason cattle are seldom bitten by it.  But it allows you to approach very closely before it moves, and the rattle of its tail even in retreat is very unpleasant to hear.  Higher up the country we afterward killed one or two young ones; but we soon exercised such precautions as insured our not being brought too frequently in contact with them.  I have heard of many remedies for rattlesnake bites, and of many fatal cases; but had any of my party been unfortunate enough to have been bitten very seriously, it was agreed between us that the unbitten ones should immediately apply a red-hot iron to the part affected, and then give the victim a powerful dose of castor-oil, and leave him to repose; but I doubt if the complete cautery would have been carried out!</P>
010.sgm:<P>Before we arrived at the house Quilp had got scent of the antelope, and had departed.</P>
010.sgm:<P>From this time we found ample employment for our guns, and soon succeeded in bringing in some black-tailed deer.  Hares were in abundance close to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>QUILP.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As we were always tired with our day's work, and had, moreover, our guns to clean, we left Quilp to do all the waltzing; and when he had enjoyed this pastime until he panted like an over-driven prize ox, he would sit down on a stool in the porch, and throwing one leg over the other, would twang the old guitar and accompany it with a Spanish hymn to the Virgin, which, being delivered in a dismal falsetto, bore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The small native horses of the country are remarkable for sureness of foot and great powers of endurance; half-starved, unshod, and overweighted, these ponies will perform long journeys at great speed, with great courage; but alas! for them, in a country where horse-flesh is so cheap and riders are so merciless, the noble qualities of this animal meet no reward; and the long day's journey bravely accomplished, the "vaccaro" takes his saddle off the panting beast, and turns him off to die or not, according to his constitution.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The Californian saddle is very rough in appearance, being formed simply of wood and hide, but great care is bestowed both on the material and form, and for the duties required of them they are admirable.  The "vaccaro" is in his saddle all day, and it forms his pillow by night; when once he gets a good "saddle-tree," nothing can induce him to part with it, and you may see a dozen of these "vaccaros" standing round a rusty-looking saddle, listening to its owner's praises as he points out its beauties.  These saddles are also well adapted for long journeys, affording, as they do, so much support to the body.</P>
010.sgm:<P>When the tame horses attached to a ranche begin to be "used up" with hard work, and the stud requires replenishing, the "vaccaros" start for the mountains, and return shortly driving before them a band of wild colts, which, with some difficulty, they force into the corral, where they are inclosed.  The "vaccaros" now enter to select the likely colts, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:mad herd fly round the corral, but the unerring lasso arrests the career of the selected victim, who is dragged, with his fore-feet firmly planted in the ground, half-strangled, to the court-yard, where a strong leather blind is at once placed over his eyes; at this he hangs his head, and remains quite still, his fore-feet still planted in the ground ready to resist any forward movement.  Then the "vaccaro," always keeping his eye on the horse's heels and mouth, places a folded blanket on his back, and on that the saddle, divested of all encumbrances, this he girths up with all his power; the bridle is on in an instant, so simple is its construction: how free from ornament is the bit, how plain and unpretending is that rusty iron prong, which, at the least pressure on the rein, will enter the <HI REND="italics">roof of the horse's mouth</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It is now that the formation of the Californian saddle and the large wooden stirrups protect the rider : a small bar lashed crossways to the peak of the saddle prevents the horse from rolling over, and when he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Spanish Priests.--Indians.--Quilp forgets Himself.--Habits of Native Californians.--Father Bartolem&eacute;o.--The Lasso.--Good Riders.--Cattle branding.--Raymond provides Mules.--Russian River.--We Encamp.--Saw-mill.--I propose to "Squat"</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
010.sgm:<P>THE capabilities of Santa Rosa Valley had not been overlooked by the early missionaries, and the house now occupied by Don Raymond had been built by them.  The object of these priests had been, first, to encourage the wild Indians of the country to settle near their mission-houses, and then gradually to domesticate them and employ them in bringing the land under cultivation; but in the northern portion of the country, their efforts seem on all sides to have been unattended with success, for, with the exception of the existence here and there of a few bands of "Manzos," or tame Indians, nothing remains in evidence of the exertions of these early colonists. In the southern portion of the country, where the climate is better adapted for the growth of fruit-trees and vines, signs of improvement every where mark the presence of the land-loving Jesuit.  The missions there consist of several houses, part of the surrounding country is producing grain; a breed of small sheep has been introduced; and the Indians having been made available for agricultural purposes, large quantities of vines are reared, from which an excellent wine, to which I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The tribe in question occupied a few huts not far from the house, and Raymond had, with a spirit a little in advance of his fellow-colonists, employed these Indians in inclosing a few acres of land, which were now sown with barley and peas.  Every week a bullock was killed for the Indians, the whole of which, including entrails, they devoured on the instant.  Of an evening they made a great disturbance by indulging in what they intended for a dance; this consisted in crowding together in uncouth attitudes, and stamping on the ground to the accompaniment of primitive whistles, of which each man had one in his mouth, while the women howled and shrieked in chorus.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Business required Raymond's presence at Sacramento for a few days, and from that time Quilp's influence worked strongly to our disadvantage.  We were no longer summoned to the early breakfast of fresh milk and "tortillas," and those meals that were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:prepared for us consisted for the most part of stewed beans.  We reminded the ladies, whom now we seldom met, that we had deposited game in the kitchen but the day before.  "Possibly," they replied, "the gatos (cats) had destroyed it."  The idea of palming this dreadful story on an Englishman was rather too good.   We were now therefore often compelled to shift for ourselves, and although it was no great trouble to light a fire while out shooting, and roast a hare or wild duck, we felt our position to be very awkward, having promised Raymond not to depart before his return, an event we awaited with impatience. Not far from the house lived a "squatter" of the name of Elliot; he had been settled for some time in the country, and had planted a small garden of vegetables; we found that he was always supplied.with venison, and on this discovery we soon made an arrangement with him that relieved the people of the ranche from all trouble respecting our meals.  When we returned at night, Quilp would be found as usual twanging his guitar, but on one occasion, emboldened by our silent contempt, which he mistook perhaps for fear, he ventured on a liberty which, but for my interference, might have been very summarily punished. Returned one evening from shooting, my dog, Cromer, went up inquisitively to Quilp as he sat in the porch, and this gentleman, perhaps to please the group of vaccaros who shared his dislike of us, undertook to kick the animal with his heavy spurred heel. Barnes's powerful grip was on his shoulder in an instant, and so long as it remained there, Quilp was held to his chair as if in a vice.  I ordered Barnes at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>While out on the ensuing day we came across a beautiful little animal of the size of a racoon, striped black and white.  This was a species of skunk, that emitted an odor so overpowering, that the animal's instinct did not even induce it to attempt to run from the dogs, who flew at first to worry it, but surrendered at once to the poisonous smell, and refused to approach.  We left the skunk in full possession of the field, and returned to find Quilp and a newly-arrived party of Spaniards, enjoying themselves in-doors, drinking the "wine of the south" and cracking jokes, probably at our expense.  I had paid little attention to the fact of Barnes having lagged behind us as we came home, and I was in the porch awaiting his return, when he suddenly appeared on the threshold of the door from which the merriment proceeded, and with the laconic remark of "D--n you, take that," before I was aware of his purpose he chucked the skunk into the middle of the party of Spaniards, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Raymond returned next day, and having explained to him as much as was necessary to account for the estranged terms on which he found us with his family, and apologized for my servant's inexcusable rudeness, I insisted upon being at once permitted to terminate my visit; and the same day I erected my tent On the plain.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Raymond, who entertained much good feeling toward us, felt very sore to find on inquiry that we had been inhospitably treated during his absence; but unable to persuade me to remain longer as his guest, he requested that we would wait and witness his annual "cattle-branding," then about to take place, and he would then procure us mules to pursue our journey.</P>
010.sgm:<P>No life is so thoroughly lazy as that of a Californian family, who, totally uneducated, can neither read or write; and while there are no domestic duties on which to employ the women, the men leave to their vaccaros the little superintendence the cattle on a ranche require.  Nor, as far as the women are concerned, does the care of their children seem by any means to engross their leisure; for the rising off-shoots are allowed, like the young cattle, to grow unassisted and unembellished to maturity, though undoubtedly the naked little urchins benefit physically by the freedom <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The Californian idea of religion is rather sketchy and undefined.  It is well known that the Spanish Roman Catholic missionaries were never prone to waste much time in expounding the tenets of their faith; the great principle was, in all instances, to <HI REND="italics">convert</HI>
010.sgm:, and to increase the "army of the Faithful."  I remember that in the islands of Batan in the China Sea, the process was excessively simple.  So soon as a nigger was caught--and in a small island he had not much chance of escape from a Jesuit--a tin cross was hung round his neck, and he was turned off again, like one of Raymond's branded steers, one being as wise as the other as to whom the new allegiance was owing. The Californians have, however, learnt enough to know that every one not of their faith is a heretic, and the Carrillo family asked us point-blank if we belonged to that unhappy class, and received gravely our modest reply, that we believed we had that misfortune. The Spaniards and their priests are not only inveterate card-players, but practiced cheats.  One of these sleight-of-hand Padres, I was told, displayed great fervor in attempting to convert a heretic who lived near him, and who happened to be an English master of a merchant vessel, who had settled in the country.  As the story goes, the old Salt defended himself from the theological attacks of Father Bartolem&eacute;o on the score that he never could understand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:the principal articles of his new creed.  "How so?" exclaims the Padre; "with faith, and the help of the Virgin, all obstacles will melt like snow before the sun." "Then," observed the captain, as he produced a pack of Spanish monte cards, "how do you turn lip the Jack when the seven and Jack are laid out, and an open bet is made on the seven?"  "Toe-nails of St. Ignatius! what has this to do with the tenets of the true faith?" roars the father.  "This," says the other, in reply, "is the first tenet of <HI REND="italics">your faith</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Where so much ignorance exists, a proportionate amount of superstition will of course be found; and in horse-racing, which is their passion, the Californians are regulated by a code of rules affecting the colors of horses, and the hours at which they must start to insure victory.  Sailors used to dislike a Friday; but there is no day of the week that is not unlucky for something in California.</P>
010.sgm:<P>At Santa Cruz (in the south), some time ago, the "Virgin" was entreated for rain, and the hat being sent round, a sufficient amount was collected to back the request in the substantial manner that the priests point out as being acceptable. An old heretical American settler, who had a farm on the high land above <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The dress of the vaccaro consists of a broad-brimmed hat, always secured under the chin, a loose shirt and jacket, and buckskin breeches; round the leg is wound a square piece of leather; this is secured at the knee, and is a protection against falls or the attacks of cattle: in one of these leggings he carries his knife; his spurs, serapa, and lasso complete his costume.  Under his saddle he has a blanket; and thus lightly equipped is independent of every thing. The lasso is generally constructed of twisted hide, and is made with great care.  In the hands of a good vaccaro the noose is thrown carelessly, but with unerring precision: it is a formidable weapon of attack; and in the guerrilla warfare, which preceded the occupation of the country, it was not only used successfully, but horrible cruelties were practiced by the Spaniards on those whom by chance they cut off in this manner.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The Californians are perfect riders--graceful, active, and courageous; they ride with a straight leg when in the saddle; and this latter, when properly made, gives great support to the body and legs: how, otherwise, could they endure, for hours together, the shock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:of bringing up <HI REND="italics">all standing</HI>
010.sgm:<P>When I first seated myself in a Californian saddle belonging to Raymond, and found the lower part of my body deeply imbedded in the soft skins which covered it, I was led into an error which, I dare say, has been shared by many others.  I thought at the time that riders accustomed to so much assistance were less dependent on the muscles of the body; and I have no doubt in those valuable papers, since lost, I recorded a hasty opinion that their crack riders would make a poor show on an English saddle over a steeple-chase country; but this is only another proof of the danger of trusting to first impressions.  The Californian will ride a bare-backed horse at speed and bring him on his haunches with a seat undisturbed; but what more particularly arrests the critical eye of an Englishman, is their beautiful handling of the horse's mouth: with a bit, the slightest pressure on which arrests the horse, they ride, in all the excitement of the cattle-chase, with a lightness of hand that is truly admirable.  In the hunting counties, where by chance some black-coated stranger takes and keeps a forward position throughout the day, it is a matter of duty after dinner for all legitimate red-coats to depreciate the arrogant unknown; but when no fault can be found either with his seat or his style of riding, there is always some one who clinches the matter by remarking sagely, "The fellow rides well enough, but he has got no hands!"  Now the Californians have both seats and "hands," and may defy the criticism even of the ill-natured.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Once a year it was customary to drive up all the cattle on a ranche to brand the young steers.  On these occasions the vaccaros are in their glory, crack riders volunteer their assistance, and ranche owners congregate from far and wide to point out and take away such of their own beasts as have strayed and become mixed with those on the ranche.  For a week previously, the vaccaros scour the mountains and plains, and collect the wild herds, and these are at once inclosed in the "corrals."</P>
010.sgm:<P>The proprietor of the ranche keeps open house, while the vaccaros adorn themselves in all the finery they can muster, which is not much, and they are specially mounted for the occasion.  Fires are lighted near the corral, and in these the branding-irons are kept heated.  The work is commenced leisurely, a few vaccaros enter the corraL the gate of which is formed of a bar of wood, easily withdrawn, to allow egress to the cattle.  The first lasso is thrown over the horns of a steer, and as the bar is withdrawn he rushes out with the vaccaro at his side; on the instant a second lasso catches the hind leg and he falls on his side, as if shot.  The two lassos are then kept tight by the horses to which they are attached, who are admirably trained to throw their whole weight on the rope; the brand is then applied.  A shake of the lasso disengages it, and the steer, after a wild look at the assembled company, rushes smarting with pain to the mountains, where he is soon joined by his fellows in a similar unfortunate predicament.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The corral becomes gradually thinned, and more vaccaros enter the lists, and as the large beasts are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>But occasionally the scene is diversified by some cantankerous young bull, who having received the impression of his master's initials, makes a rush at the crowd that surround the corral, with the intention of revenging an insult never intended.  This wayward conduct subjects him to increased punishment, for he is now brought down on his side again, until at last he thinks better of it, and makes the best of his way to some lonely spot on the plain, where he revenges himself by praiseworthy but unsuccessful attempts to gore the largest oak-tree he can find.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The work is now carried on with great rapidity, the vaccaros have renewed their horses many times, and under the influence of brandy, which is freely served to them, they begin to get as mad as the cattle.  All ends at dusk, and the evening is devoted to a "fandango;" but the men are all so drunk and tired, that this amusement always terminates early, and generally seriously; for among so many boasting and quarrelsome riders, knives are soon produced, and the dispute, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:which always has reference to the <HI REND="italics">capacity</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It is the nature of man to boast of his horse in all countries, and how unfortunate it is that these Spaniards are not sufficiently civilized to settle their disputes with a bet; then the only blood drawn would be from the horse's flanks, when he was called upon by his master to perform the feat in question, and the whole would be decided in a <HI REND="italics">gentlemanly manner</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Shortly after the "cattle-branding," Raymond provided me with four handsome mules and a horse.  I have already mentioned that the management of wild mules was a matter of great difficulty; to us it was an impossibility, and we found it requisite to hire the services of a vaccaro.  We started for Russian River after bidding adieu to Raymond, who had behaved to us throughout with great hospitality and kindness.  Our road led through another plain, oak-timbered like the valleys, and that there may be at least one good remark in my book, I shall borrow a description from Sterne, who says, "There is nothing more pleasing to a traveler or more terrible to travel-writers, than a large rich plain, especially if it is without great rivers or bridges, and presents to the eye but one unvaried picture of plenty; for, after they have once told you that it is delicious or delightful (as the case happens), that the soil was grateful, and that Nature pours out all her abundance, etc., they have then a large plain upon their hands, which they know not. what to do with."-- <HI REND="italics">Tristram Shandy</HI>
010.sgm:, vol. ii. p. 123.  The reader will then please <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>This is a broad stream, and in the summer months when the water becomes low, it runs sluggishly; but high among the branches of the alder-trees that line the banks, are accumulations of sticks and rubbish that mark the height to which the river rises when the mountain snow begins to melt, and it changes its present lazy rippling pace for the turbulent roar of a cataract, and overflows the adjacent plains.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Being nightfall, we encamped without crossing, and at daylight we were dismayed at discovering that our beasts had been stolen; we had no reason to suspect the vaccaro, who at all events acted surprise to perfection, if guilty of connivance; but mules and horses were gone, and the riattas with them.  Some expert thieves had tracked us, and as we were in ignorance as to who they were, we laid the whole matter at Quilp's door.  I have since discovered by experience, that if a band of Mexicans are determined to have your horses, they generally manage it by some means, in spite of the utmost vigilance; with our inexperience and the possible connivance of the vaccaro (of which, however, there was not a shadow of proof) the task was easy.  I discharged the vaccaro, and we crossed the river on foot, taking off our clothes and Carrying them in a bundle on our heads.  The water was so refreshing, that the task of taking over our baggage piecemeal was one of pleasure, and helped wonderfully to counterbalance the annoyance I felt at the loss of my mules--a loss which entirely precluded my further advance into the country. Leaving Barnes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>From this hill we discovered the hut of which we were in search, situated near a running stream and surrounded by towering redwood trees.  We found the occupant at home; he was a tall sinewy man, a Missourian of the name of March, and he at once cheerfully assisted us.  He lent us his mule to bring up our baggage, and by nightfall we were encamped within a few yards of his hut.  There were two other backwoodsmen living with March, and these three had just completed unaided a saw-mill, to which they had applied the power of the stream, by means of an over-shot wheel.  The heavy beams that formed the mill-frame, the dam and race, had all been constructed from the adjacent forest trees, and now that the work was completed, wanting only the saw, (or which they intended to go to San Francisco, it seemed incredible that so large a frame could be put together <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>And it contrasts strangely with the languid inertness of those communities, who with equal brains and hands <HI REND="italics">ponder</HI>
010.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">dream</HI>
010.sgm: over the means of supplying wants, even when they have long been felt; to see that here even the uneducated backwoodsman devotes his time and energy to preparing for the wants <HI REND="italics">to come</HI>
010.sgm:; buoyed up by all admirable confidence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>The Little Valley.--Three Martyrs.--Mountain Life.--The poor Does.--Castor-oil.--A sick Dog.--The Carpentaro.--Gray Squirrel.--Digger Indians--Redwood Tree.--American Rifles.--Grizzly Bear Hunt.--Sheldon wounded.--Difficulty in killing the Bear.--Habits of the Bear.--A Thief</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
010.sgm:<P>THE country which we now traversed consisted of a series of small round-topped hills, uniform in size but varying in feature.  The whole had been long since subjected to violent volcanic action, so while one hill was crowned with a grotesque mass of rock and cinder, round which the tall wild oats waved desolately, the next enchanted the eye with a profusion of evergreen oaks and flowering arbutus.  These hills altered in character as they had been subjected to, or had escaped from the volcanic shower; thus while on one side was a huge mound of lava destitute of all vegetation, on the other was a dense mass of rich underwood, from which rose groups of the stately redwood tree.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We saw several old craters, and the cindery desolation that encircled them for some distance yielded suddenly to the encroachment of vegetation; a strife for mastery between these two had existed, and you may believe, if you please, as I do, the volcanic agency to have been under the management of an evil gnome, the wild vines and arbutus to have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>We put up several hares and covies of partridges, whose parents had never been shot at, and we fully satisfied ourselves as to the existence in abundance of both bears and deer.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Arrived at the summit of a hill, the little valley we were in search of lay at our feet.  It was scarcely twenty acres in extent, level as a table, bounded on one side by masses of redwood trees, and on the other by a fine stream, whose banks were shaded with alders and wild vines.  The valley itself was free from shrub or tree, excepting that from the centre there rose a clump of seven gigantic redwoods, which growing in a circle, and meeting at the roots, formed a natural chamber to which there was but one inlet.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As the land we were on belonged to the United States government, I determined to take March's advice, and <HI REND="italics">squat</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Considering that, saving the wild Indians, human foot had probably never crossed the spot, the notice scarcely seemed necessary, and the Indians did not respect it, as I shall have occasion to show hereafter.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>By the time we had walked thoroughly over the property and discovered fresh advantages, and had drunk of the stream and found the water excellent, it was dusk, and not being sufficiently satisfied with our landmarks, to try our way back to our camp that night, we determined on passing it in the redwood clump; the fire was soon stacked and lighted--that jolly camp-fire that on the instant suffuses every thing around it with its cheerful ruddy glow, and sends its sharp crackle merrily up through the air, throwing a charm over the most inhospitable desert, and giving a zest to the hunter's meal, be it ever so homely. How naturally as we sit around it we recall the memory of wet seasons, when benighted, damp, chilly, and tired, we selected, amidst the falling mist, the driest and most sheltered spot in the wet brushwood; how we laugh now at the vain attempt to kindle damp leaves and undergrowth; the partial success that engendered hope, only to render the failure of the last match more intolerable; the dark long night, dreary, drizzling, with one of us on guard for danger, and all unable to sleep, watching impatiently for the morning, with the first dull streak of which we stretch our half-stiffened limbs, and shouldering the dead game, that no camp-fire over night converted into a well-earned and needful supper, seek some sheltered spot elsewhere, and make a breakfast of it. The recollection of nights like these--and they fall to the lot of every hunter--causes one to contemplate the blazing embers with a simple gratitude, that is not always engendered elsewhere by the possession of the comforts of this world.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE THREE MARTYRS.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We had a leash of hares, which being skinned and cleaned, were impaled on withers and placed at the fire to roast, where they looked like three martyrs flayed alive, and staked.  While they were cooking we filled the redwood clump with several armfuls of long oat-straw from the adjacent hill.</P>
010.sgm:<P>After worrying the three hares, we lighted our pipes, and picketing the dogs round us, we gave ourselves up to the pleasures of a comparison of the happiness of our position as compared with that of other men, and then I sunk into a gentle slumber (of course), while my companions snored in unison with the dogs.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We rose with the sun; and, properly speaking, I should take advantage of that fact to inform the reader what part of the surrounding scenery was first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>In the course of the day we moved our baggage from March's Mill to our new possession, where I determined on passing the winter.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I decided upon inclosing the valley and rendering it fit for agricultural purposes, but as the winter was approaching, I saw that the first thing requisite was <illus entity="a010-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SHOOTING BOX.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>There is but one species of deer here--the black-tailed--and the venison, though generally fat, is insipid, owing, perhaps, to the fact that the dry season parches up every blade of green stuff, and the deer live on the long self-made hay, which in some parts is very plentiful, but not nutritious.  The deer are generally found in herds of from five to seven, and it requires great caution to "bag them."</P>
010.sgm:<P>As the wind at this season of the year blows with little variation from the same point, my ground was almost always of the same nature, the river being in my rear, and the mountains before me. Stalking was out of the question, for from the peculiar formation of the country, which consisted of a series of undulations, no extended view could be procured of a herd, and the long grass which afforded them cover abounded with rattlesnakes.  The only plan in such a country is to keep your eyes about you, not forgetting the ground, and walk the deer up, against the wind of course, taking advantage of any cover that may be in your path, in the shape of a rock, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:using great caution in showing yourself over the rising ground.  The herd will probably then start up with a bound from the long oat-straw at your feet, but seldom afford a fine shot, as they plunge away half concealed by it; now you throw yourself down, and see! the herd has stopped within a hundred yards of you; and here a buck advances chivalrously in defense of his harem--five paces--ten--now he is troubled; for although there is pride in his nostrils, and anger in his stamping hoof, there is indecision in those working ears, and by his eye you may read that if any thing very ugly appears, he will run away.  But a doe advances; this nerves her lord to a few paces more--now you may fire--full at the shoulder--crash--poor buck! Now load again, and then rush up and cut his throat, he is stone dead; rattle, tattle, tattle, tattle--mind the snake!  Now flay him, if you want the skin, or quarter him if you don't: this done you can carry home a haunch, the skin, the antlers, the tongue and the brains, and these, with your accoutrements and the hot sun, will probably tire you before you get home.  In the evening the poor does, with their soft hearts still palpitating from the nasty noise your rifle made, and the very ugly appearance of yourself generally, will stand in a group, and turn their wistful eyes in the direction where last they saw their master, and wonder--poor innocents!--why he is not there as usual to lead them proudly down to the stream, and take his station on the bank to ward off any danger while they drink.  Night comes, but he does not appear; then they wander about, and cry and pass a miserable night, while you are making a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The deer is very inquisitive, and if when you have walked up a herd, and have thrown yourself down, in the long grass, you extend your loading rod above your head, with a piece of rag attached to it, the bucks will, even though they wind you, generally approach within killing distance, which, when shooting as I was, for subsistence, should not be more than <HI REND="italics">seventy yards</HI>
010.sgm: if possible.  It is always better to make this rule when shooting for the "larder."  Where game is thin, fire at nothing that you don't think certain, until the day wanes, and necessity and an empty stomach oblige you to shoot at every thing you see.  Where game is wild and difficult to approach, and you are living on your gun, too much precaution can not be taken to insure, if possible, the bagging of every thing you hit; for if any thing makes sporting cruel, it is the habit that some have of trying long shots, and sending poor brutes away to die a lingering death in the brush.  Moreover, I was much in the position of a man with a preserve, and that not overstocked.  I could not afford to drive my game, by careless shooting, out of my own beat, and the nature of my country was such that the want of cover in the undulating hills rendered the deer very alert while feeding there, and when they took to the mountains in alarm they were lost to the hunter, if alone, so far as this, that they invariably managed to keep a large-sized hill between him and themselves; for the Russian River deer are actually <HI REND="italics">cunning</HI>
010.sgm:, and never did I see one take to a ravine, or lay himself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>We recovered some wounded deer with the assistance of the blood-hound, Prince; but just as he became useful, he was attacked by a distemper peculiar to the country, which affects the hind-quarters with paralysis, and generally kills. I think I saved Prince's life by administering a tremendous dose of castor-oil on the first appearance of his symptoms, but he was a very sick dog for a long time, and staggered like a three days' old calf.  Having mentioned castor-oil, I wish to do justice to its invaluable qualities, which would not perhaps have been so thoroughly tested by us were it not that our sole stock of medicine consisted of two quart bottles of it.  It was successfully applied to both man and beast in every complaint, and acted, with a little tobacco-leaf, as a balm for all outward wounds.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Barnes, who was a famous ax-man and was possessed of unusual physical strength and endurance, soon felled a large number of the giant redwoods in the rear of our valley, in order to split them and convert them into rails for inclosing the farm.  If we should speak well of the bridge that carries us over, we should also speak well of the tree that roofs us in for the winter, but the redwood tree (Arbor Vita) deserves especial notice on its own merits, which I shall proceed to detail,  The size and height attained by the redwood in California are very wonderful, and faithful accounts of these trees have been received with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The timber of the redwood is very durable, and is so easily worked that a man needs but an ax, a betel, and a few wedges, to convert the largest of them, provided they are free from knots, into planks, rails, or clap-boards, and I have seen Barnes fell a huge fellow, and in less than a fortnight he has carried it all away but the boughs and the bark.  It is a fine sight to watch one of these trees fall to the ax; leaving the perpendicular at first so leisurely; then gathering impetus as it nears the ground, crushing all it meets, making the earth vibrate with its shock, and sending forth a booming echo, that startles the game far and wide.  The bark of the redwood is perforated in every direction, and with great regularity, by a kind of starling, called, from this peculiarity, <HI REND="italics">carpentaro</HI>
010.sgm:, or carpenter.  These birds form cells in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:tree with great assiduity, and deposit therein acorns, which fit very tightly.  They are very quaint and noisy, and employ themselves continually, when not fighting, in depositing acorns in the redwoods.  You may see a dozen of them clinging to the bark of one tree in the most uncomfortable positions, pecking away, each at a hole.  But the carpentaros work for the more lazy portion of creation, and one of their enemies is the beautiful gray squirrel which abounds here.  I have often watched a gray squirrel ascend a redwood; for the birds work in the upper part of the tree.  He is immediately surrounded by carpentaros, who, knowing him of old, are at no loss to divine his object, but the open day robber, nothing daunted, at once extracts an acorn, and popping it in his mouth, he turns his head from side to side in the quaintest manner possible, as if to say to the birds that chatter around him, "Pray go on, don't mind my feelings." Then down he comes whisking his beautiful silvery tail.  Then the carpentaros assemble round the pillaged hole, and scream over the matter so much that you may imagine them to be abusing the squirrel in their choicest slang; and presently up comes gray squirrel again for another acorn, having found the first so good; and then, fresh carpentaros having arrived, the noise becomes so intolerable, that the most enthusiastic of naturalists would walk off with his fingers in his ears.  The grizzly bear also takes advantage of the exposed condition of the carpentaro's winter provision, and climbs the redwood in much the same fashion as the gray squirrel, though less gracefully; so they say: I never saw a bear in this position, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The carpentaro has a more destructive enemy than even the squirrel or the bear, and a greater beast than either--the Digger Indian.  These miserable specimens of humanity will light a fire at the root of a well-stocked redwood tree until it falls; they then extract the carpentaro's acorns and fill many baskets full, which they carry away.</P>
010.sgm:<P>"Eat as much as you like, but pocket none," the justly indignant carpentaros might say.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The redwood tree is the main-stay of California. The supply is inexhaustible, but nature has been sufficiently capricious to make them most abundant in very inaccessible spots, while the level plains are covered with a short-grained dwarf oak, serviceable only for firewood.  But, however steep the mountains, the Californian redwood has to fall and to be fashioned to the use of man, and when a steam saw-mill gets perched upon a mountain-top the romance of the forest is gone; its silent grandeur no longer awes the mind; and the trees, whose size and beauty caused such deep impressions and such grave reflections, fall into insignificance as you see them torn into planks and packed on wagons, while the once still forest resounds to the sound of the ax and the shrill whistle of the steam-engine.  I have been very disappointed at finding these sudden changes in revisiting some of my old hunting-grounds.</P>
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010.sgm:<P>Thomas now arrived with our stores, which we unpacked with great pleasure, as they had not seen the light since we had boxed them up ourselves in England, and every article was associated with home. We set to work, and in a fortnight had completed a two-roomed house, close to the redwood clump: we then converted that apartment into a larder and storehouse.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is not my intention to dwell very much upon the subject of deer-shooting, as--even could I say what has not been said before by mightier hunters than I--the subject has interest for sporting men alone.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I have mentioned in the early part of this chapter that bears were said to be plentiful in the country I had chosen for my sojourn.  The Californian hunter holds the grizzly bear in great respect; and not without reason, when we consider that this animal is difficult to kill, that he is a relentless pursuer when wounded, and that he can run and climb under ordinary circumstances with more agility than his assailant.  On this account, and from the fact that you must, from the nature of his haunts, attack him on foot, a wounded grizzly bear is a worse enemy to encounter than a tiger.  March had promised to make up a bear-hunt for us, and in a day or two he came over to the farm with two hunters of the name of Sheldon and Carter; both hard-looking fellows, carrying nothing but their rifles, a knife, and a Colt's revolver, which latter is invaluable in all kinds of hunting.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The Americans carried rifles of their own make; capital make too, though too weak in the lock on account <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The German rifle--to which I have alluded--was rather too short, but very true within a hundred yards, and its qualities were expressed by its name, "Shoulder-breaker," engraved on the stock. It is a rare thing to get a good rifle carrying a heavy ball.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We started at once in search of our bear--six in number--and accompanied by a small dog belonging to Sheldon.  It was not until the afternoon that we struck upon a fresh bear sign, of which March had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>A momentary uncertainty on his part gave me an Opportunity of troubling him with one of my 1 1/2 oz. balls; but this only elicited a grunt and a rush in my direction.  I confess that, as soon as my rifle was discharged, I felt great inclination to disregard March's directions, which were, not to use my revolver, but, if possible, to <HI REND="italics">reload my rifle directly I had fired</HI>
010.sgm:, under <HI REND="italics">all circumstances</HI>
010.sgm:.  While in a curious state <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>This dog had been in other bear-hunts, and was generally very useful; for the grizzly has a great suspicion of any thing behind him; and if a dog can be trained to worry his hams, the bear will turn round and round and afford much facility to the hunters.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I fancy the dog must have got hurt, or lost his pluck, for he now rushed straight to his master, and the bear followed: Sheldon fired as the grizzly approached, but without effect; and the next moment poor Sheldon was down bathed in blood; one blow had carried away the flesh entirely from one side of his face, fracturing his jaw-bone in the most frightful manner.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The bear disappeared, and probably retired to die, while we carried Sheldon home, with what feelings of grief I need not say.  We sent him on to Sonoma as soon as possible, and he afterward recovered, though dreadfully disfigured, and with the loss of an eye.  It was, perhaps, on account of this accident that we made up no more parties for the express purpose of bear-hunting, but left it to chance to meet them, and, as it happened, accident threw very few in our way.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The chief difficulty in killing the grizzly bear arises from the formation of his head, which is convex. The ball generally glances off sufficiently to avoid the brain.  You have, in fact, but three vital parts--the back of the ear, the spine, and the heart--and it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>It appears to me that a recorder of travels has a difficulty to surmount, which falls to the lot of no other writer; for while duty admonishes him to give a Strictly veracious account of every thing that comes before his notice (and of a great deal that does not), inclination and the publisher prompt him to avoid prosiness, for this very good reason, that if he enters into details he bores his readers; but then, on the other hand, if he is not sufficiently specific, he is pronounced a "superficial observer."</P>
010.sgm:<P>This observation is induced by the necessity of my introducing, at all costs, further accounts respecting the grizzly bear.</P>
010.sgm:<P>When we consider the weight of the grizzly, which often reaches fifteen hundred pounds, the enormous strength of which he is possessed, as evidenced by the limbs of trees which he will wrench from the trunk, and his extraordinary speed and activity, we have reason (speaking as one who lives in his vicinity) for congratulation that the animal is of inoffensive habits, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:and avoids the presence of man. The sole instance to the contrary is that in which you are unfortunate enough to invade the domestic circle of the she-bear when accompanied by her cubs: she invariably gives chase the instant she sees the intruder, who, if he is wise, will "draw a bee-line" in an opposite direction. In running<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">*I am supposing the case of an unarmed person suddenly meeting a she-bear-a not unusual occurrence in California.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>I have heard many anecdotes related of grizzly bears.  I choose the following as characteristic of a well-established fact, that the bear, even when infuriated, not only acts from the instinct of self-preservation, but seems loth to kill and mangle what it attacks.</P>
010.sgm:<P>In the hills round San Jos&eacute;, an unarmed negro <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:came suddenly on a she grizzly with cubs.  She pursued him, and fortunately for him struck him on the head, which knocked him down, but did not of course (he being a nigger) inflict any serious damage on the part assailed.  The man wisely remained perfectly still, while the bear, who knowing nothing about "darkies" heads, supposed she had gained the day by a <HI REND="italics">coup de main</HI>
010.sgm:<P>I have mentioned the dexterity with which the Spaniard throws the lasso, and the weapon has been successfully employed in entrapping the bear.  The noose is thrown over him when he is near a tree, and by riding in a circle he is secured by a dozen thongs. This is one of the feats which the Spaniards assure you they <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Although the grizzly's natural food consists probably of roots and acorns, I suppose he must be ranked as omnivorous, for he certainly crunches a bone with great gusto.  The bears cleared off any bones that were lying round our hut; and, in one instance, we shot at a couple that came close to our door at night and stole the bones from under the noses of the dogs. One bear walked away with a large piece of meat and the iron hook on which it hung, but whether he swallowed the hook with the bait, or pulled it out with his fingers, we never ascertained; he never brought it back again, so we indulge in the hope that it sticks in his jaws to this day, and that he has found out "qu'il n'y a point de roses sans des &eacute;pines."</P>
010.sgm:<P>Bear meat is eatable, but very devoid of flavor, and I think the grizzly indulges in too much gymnastic exercise to qualify him for the table of the epicure. He figures in the bill-of-fare at all Californian Restaurants, and, as a great number of the common black bears are caught alive in traps, the San Francisco hairdresser has no difficulty in "sacrificing, on any occasion, a real animal for the benefit of his customers."</P>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Deer Hunting.--Wild Bulls.--Wild Fowl.--A Duck Gun.--Driving an Ox-team.--I reflect.--An Estampede.--The Tiger Cat.--Rainy Season.--Indian Fires.--Wasps.--We are robbed by the Indians. --I kill a Bear.--Crossing a Swollen River</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Christmas</HI>
010.sgm:<P>TO render agreeable a life where men are thrown entirely on their own resources, the chief point is to insure contentment, and nothing conduces more to this end than to apportion to each one of the party an equal and strictly-defined share of work.  Forest life, in my case, never altered the relations that existed between myself and those in my employment, nor will real respect ever vanish under the familiar contact which such a life imposes.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I gave Barnes the woods and forests, which was not such a sinecure as it is here, as he had full employment for the winter in felling the redwoods, and splitting them into rails for inclosing the farm. Thomas undertook the "hewing and drawing," the cooking, and the internal cleanliness of the house; and this latter is very essential in mountain life.  Take everything out of your hut daily and hang it in the sun; then, water well the floor; this drives away the vermin which abound in the deer and hare skins; it also insures you against scorpions and centipedes, which are apt to introduce themselves into the fire-wood.  It devolved on me to supply the larder, and the amount <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The monotony of this life was varied by excursions into the adjacent country, and these would last two or three days; during which time we left the hut to take care of itself; and, carrying each a rifle and a blanket, with a few other necessaries, we passed our nights by the camp-fire, and in the day discovered wonders of nature that amply repaid us for our journey. The first object that attracted our attention was an immense hill of sulphur, and we discovered hot springs strongly impregnated with this mineral in its immediate vicinity.  Round one of the springs was an apparently hard crust of sulphur, but this was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>These excursions opened a new field for our rifles, for, while taking a bird's-eye view one morning from the elevation on which we had encamped, our attention was arrested by the appearance of a herd of wild cattle.  Having observed the direction in which they were grazing, and finding that, unfortunately, the direction of the wind prevented our heading them, I adopted a plan which proved successful.   Carefully keeping them in sight from the rear, as I knew that water was not immediately ahead of them, I foresaw that toward sunset they would alter their course, and, guided by their instinct, graze toward the nearest spring.   This they did in the afternoon and having now a side wind, we hastened to look for cover in their line of march, glad to exchange the slip-shod pace at which for hours we had followed their movements, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Although wild cattle are not described as being indigenous to the country, I have no doubt, from their appearance, that these were so, and that their cows were not many miles away.  It is vexatious to be obliged to leave a fine carcass to the wolves and vultures; but as a bullock is too much for three men, and we were far from home, we cut out the best part <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The wild fowl now came over in heavy flights and settled in our vicinity.  The geese were in incredible numbers; white and gray geese, and brant.  Of ducks we had several varieties, many of them quite unknown to me, and I regret that I failed, from want of materials, in my endeavors to preserve specimens of them. The geese are very easily shot when first they arrive, but soon become very wary.  The easiest and best plan is to construct little huts of green stuff near the marshes they frequent, and you are sure of good flight shooting at daylight.  I had a large duck-gun that I had used in punt-shooting in Norfolk, but it was very rebellious, and kicked so, when used from the shoulder without a rest, that I placed it under Barnes's especial charge; and whenever he felt in particularly good health, he went out with it, and you might see him returning with geese and ducks suspended from every part of his body; his face wreathed in smiles at his good fortune; but the next morning would disclose a bruise on his right shoulder of about the size and color of a certain popular green dessert-plate. Herons and curlew were plentiful, and very tender; jack-snipe in great abundance, but I never disturbed them, for I am a bad snipe-shot, and the first rule in the mountains is to spare your powder.  Hares and partridges were in abundance, yet were also spared, as we wished them about the place; but rabbits were rather scarce, and very small.  If the love of sport, therefore, was sufficient to chain one to this spot, the above enumeration will show that we had not only ample occupation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>It was our custom of an evening, after our supper was over--the fire piled up with blazing oak logs, and each man had lighted his pipe and received a noggin of schnappes after the fatigues of the day--to congregate in one room, and there, after lighting a candle, one of us would read a book aloud.  I had a good stock of books, though they traveled in a small compass, and as they were, for the most, by Fielding, Smollett, De Foe, Le Sage, Goldsmith, and that class of writers, they all bore reading twice, and more than twice, so that our evenings were passed very sociably. Barnes, too, who was an uneducated man, was taking instructions in writing from Thomas, and began to learn in this wild spot what they never tried to teach him in the Christian village where he first saw the light.  One evening these amusements were set aside for the discussion of the subject of the cultivation of a piece of the farm.  Onions were at this time commanding fabulous prices in San Francisco; and a very simple calculation proved as distinctly as possible, <HI REND="italics">on paper</HI>
010.sgm:, that one acre planted with onions would realize an enormous profit-provided the onions came up.  To insure this last important point, I engineered a ditch, which was to convey water for their irrigation from our stream; and leaving the others to carry out these works, I started on foot for San Luis, where I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I started alone, and as oxen travel very slowly, I was three days and a half getting to the farm.  On my way I met a good-looking fellow, with black beard and mustaches, who asked Me in French the way to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I had a favorite little spot on my hunting-ground that I always selected for my halt; it was a little clump of sheltered rocks, and, after poking about with my loading-rod, to turn out any rattlesnake that might be there, I would sit down and enjoy the luxury of the cool shade and a pipe.  All good sportsmen agree, and with great truth, in the impropriety of smoking while working up to game; but, after walking a few hours in the hot Sun, a pipe is a great luxury, and I was always glad to reach this cover where I could indulge my propensity without fear of tainting the surrounding atmosphere</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I have often mused, as I have sat ill this little den, on the life I was leading, and reflected with regret that its charms must some day succumb to use, and that, in time, even deer-hunting would pall on the taste, and the excitement of a wild life become monotonous.   With health beating in every pulse, with God's best gifts strewed round him in profusion, and intellect to fashion them to use, a man acknowledges instinctively the infinite wisdom of the Creator, and feels a proportionate gratitude for His gifts.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is easy to be grateful when one has health, strength, and freedom, and easy to flatter one's self into the belief that a life so primitive is more natural than one more civilized; but it is but the lazy gratitude of one who has nothing else to live for but himself, and who is freed, not alone from the conventionalities which a more civilized state imposes, but from all claim upon his self-denial.  Freed in fact from the presence of all evils which beset man elsewhere, and tax his fortitude, his courage, and his virtue; living but for himself, with himself alone to study, he indulges in selfishness, and is happy.  And this is the great foundation-stone of the charms we hear associated with a wild free life.</P>
010.sgm:<P>One night a herd of deer jumped our railings, and passing close to the hut, crossed the river at great speed, evidently under the influence of fear.  We listened, and shortly afterward heard a pack of wolves, giving tongue in the distance.   The next morning the ground, which was soft, gave evidence that there had been an <HI REND="italics">estampede</HI>
010.sgm: the night before.  Herds of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The tiger cat is a beautiful animal, and very ferocious for its size; we saw two or three of these, about the size of a wild cat, and beautifully marked in the coat.  I shot but one, and it was with the greatest difficulty that I could induce him to resign his life without having his skin spoilt.  I was agreeably surprised, on my return one day to the hut, to find a horse, saddled and bridled, attached to our railing, and I ascertained that its owner was a countryman of mine who had been "prospecting" the surrounding country, and had been directed by March to our camp.  They say we are a stiff and formal people: perhaps so; but in the mountains, an Englishman needs no further introduction than to know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:a man for a countryman to place the best he has at the stranger's service.  You show him the river and give him a towel: you supply him with a tin plate and spoon, and he helps himself from your smoking pot: you produce a bottle of whisky in his honor, and after placing the tobacco cannister at his elbow, and pointing out the bundle of blankets that will form his bed, you enter into social conversation. When you Part from the man the next morning, you feel quite sorry, and hope to see him again, although there is little probability of that, for these are chance meetings.   It is my belief that there is an honest purpose in the hearty wring of the hand that such a stray visitor gives you as he mounts his horse to depart.  Whether or no, he can't go away and say your rooms are <HI REND="italics">damp</HI>
010.sgm:, and your claret is <HI REND="italics">sour</HI>
010.sgm:, that your wife is <HI REND="italics">a fright</HI>
010.sgm:, and your pictures are <HI REND="italics">trash</HI>
010.sgm:, as people <HI REND="italics">sometimes</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The rainy season was now approaching, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:heat became occasionally intense.  At times the Indians would fire the surrounding plains, the long oat-straw of which would ignite for miles.  The flames would advance with great rapidity, leaving every thing behind them black and charred. At these times a dense smoke would hang over the atmosphere for two or three days, increasing the heat until it became insupportable.  I had a thermometer with me during the whole of my stay in California, and could produce an elaborate<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">Query: (Printer's Devil).</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>The Digger Indians burn the grass to enable them to get at roots and wasps' nests; young wasps being a luxury with them.  These fires have the good effect of destroying immense quantities of snakes and vermin; and one can scarcely imagine the extent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>It was hard work at dinner-time to know who the meat belonged to, for these wasps used to sting on the slightest provocation; and it was the worst part of Thomas's duty to take a hare down from a peg and cut it up.</P>
010.sgm:<P>But neither ants nor fleas ever troubled our persons; the skins were always sent down to the river while yet warm, and the common precautions I adopted in-doors insured us against all annoyance.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It now commenced to rain very heavily, but not before I had, fortunately, completed a shed, and laid in a stock of fire-wood, and had also erected an additional room for drying wet clothes, etc., and for sheltering the dogs.  The first rain lasted for four days without cessation; and here again I am unable to state, scientifically, the quantity of water that fell in inches, but on the fourth day the water laid on our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
010.sgm: 1. For two months we had alternate rain and sunshine, and nothing of moment occurred.  The farm was by this time entirely inclosed, and the <HI REND="italics">onions</HI>
010.sgm:<P>When returning one day from an excursion, we found that the Indians had paid our valley a visit, and rifled our house of every thing they thought valuable; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:cooking utensils, blankets, clothes, and tools had disappeared-but we had taken the precaution of depositing our powder in a secret place which they did not discover.  Our rifles, and one blanket each, we had with us on our excursion.  The two principal annoyances that resulted from this were, firstly, that the nights being very cold indeed now, and our house very thin, our blankets were a serious loss; secondly, they had stolen <HI REND="italics">all our candles</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Although I had determined, after Sheldon's casualty, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:upon following no more bears into the bush, which is here too thick for the use of the rifle, I still hoped to kill a bear during the winter, trusting to a chance meeting under favorable circumstances; and in this respect I was gratified, inasmuch as I killed a bear to my own gun.  Now, in writing from memory, one might almost be excused for a little inaccuracy in point of size and weight; and I must confess that I have an almost irresistible temptation to forget the real dimensions of the animal that surrendered life on this occasion, and, calling it simply a <HI REND="italics">bear</HI>
010.sgm:<P>A Colt's revolver is invaluable to the deer-hunter, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:both for self-defense and killing wounded game. Perhaps the best praise I can award to this weapon is in saying that I have had mine for four years, during which time it has been much used and <HI REND="italics">more abused</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It was now spring, and I started alone, on foot, for San Francisco, where business required my presence.  On arriving at Russian River I found the stream much swollen, but I struck a part of the river where I knew one of the hunters had a log-hut and a dug-out, or canoe.  I reached the hut and found no one at home, but the dug-out was hauled up and the paddle was in it.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>It was easy to launch the dug-out, which was very long and thin; so, seating myself in the stern, I was at once in the current.  I need not say that I should never have dreamt of paddling myself over a swollen river in a canoe, had I not accustomed myself to them when in the Borneo rivers; but when I reached the middle of the stream I found the eddies made the dug-out so unmanageable, and the current was so much stronger than I imagined, and the water hissed and bubbled about me to such an extent that I had to keep the dug-out's head nearly straight up stream, and I began to get quite giddy and bewildered, and wished I was safe on shore.  I did effect a landing, an hour afterward, about a mile lower down the river; I had just Strength enough to land, and just sense enough to feel excessively grateful for not having been carried out to sea, or, what is more probable, capsized in the eddies of the stream.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Quilp departs for the South.--San Luis.--Ramsey.--I am left for Dead.--The early History of California.--Discovery of San Francisco.--Spanish Missions.--A Digression.--Digression, continued.--A rainy Season.--A little Crab.</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">April</HI>
010.sgm:<P>IT was long after dark when I arrived at Santa Rosa Valley, perfectly "knocked up."  Englishmen are generally good pedestrians; but there is a great difference between walking on the level in well-made shoes, and dragging through deep sloughs and acres of thick clayey mud in heavy ill-fitting jack-boots, particularly when the boots appear unwilling to proceed in your society, and one or other of them is continually disengaging itself, as if wishing to be left behind regardless of expense.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I found that the Carillo family had left Santa Rosa, and the valley had been purchased by Americans for the purpose of cultivating grain, for which many parts of it were well adapted.  The Carillos had departed, with horses, dogs, Indians, and Quilp, for the south, <HI REND="italics">where the wine came from</HI>
010.sgm:, where the temperature was better adapted to their "far-niente" dispositions, and where in particular Quilp was likely to enjoy a longer lease of life than his undisguised hatred of Americans would probably have permitted had he remained much longer at the valley.  As slothfulness and ignorance stepped out, intelligence and industry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>And so must other lands and other people of this continent succumb to the increasing wants of Anglo-Saxon man.  As the red Indian retires before the pale-face, so will inert bigotry in the new world disappear before the march of energy; and the bounteous riches with which the Creator has strewed this portion of the globe must, some day, be under a rule that will admit of these benefits being extended to mankind, no longer to be closed to the world, through the petty warfares or restrictive seclusion of a people too inert to seize the advantages around them, and (with a full sense of this) too jealous to admit others to do so.</P>
010.sgm:<P>About five miles from Sonoma is an "embarcadero," or landing-place, Situated on a mud creek, which is navigable for small boats, and communicates with the bay of San Francisco. Here are three houses, which conjointly represent the town of San Luis; opposite the town some fishing-boats lay at anchor, and in one of these I bargained for a passage to San Francisco, in company with eight live bullocks, that were now lying on the strand, bound neck and heels together, moaning piteously, as if impatient to get to the butcher's and have it all over.</P>
010.sgm:<P>With the exception of the owners of the three houses, the population of San Luis was a particularly floating one, being represented, for the most part, by the crews of the fishing-smacks, of which there were at times a great number in port.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>From the centre house there proceeded the sound of a fiddle; and as no one could be perceived outside, it became evident that the floating population had here assembled to while away the hours until the tide served to enable the boats to leave. I entered the house, and found it to consist of a store and drinking-shop combined; and, in virtue of its latter attraction, it was filled, as I had anticipated, by the men belonging to the boats, who, already half drunk, were tossing off Champagne,<ANCHOR ID="n8-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1"><LB>As it would be inferred from this that Champagne must have been cheap, I may mention that at this period the prices ranged from 2 <HI REND="italics">1</HI>
010.sgm:. to 4 <HI REND="italics">l</HI>
010.sgm:<LB><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Ramsey had related these adventures to me before we had been an hour acquainted; and on my presenting myself as a countryman (for there was no mistaking his Anglo-Saxon physiognomy), he had immediately relapsed into beaming smiles, and placing a bottle of Champagne under each arm, he had ushered me into his little bedroom, leaving his assistant to attend to the wants of the fresh-water sailors.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Understanding from him that he had lost all his personal effects when his cargo disappeared, I was surprised to find so many evidences in his bedroom of an English establishment-a well-browned hunting-saddle and bridle, the stalk of a whip and a pair of spurs, a double-barreled gun and fishing-rod, with some pairs of "cords," were observable about the little pig-sty he called his room.  In answer to my inquiring look, he said he had just had time to save <HI REND="italics">these only</HI>
010.sgm:<P>At the ball every thing appeared to be conducted with great propriety; but the company was composed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>During a pause in the dances, a small gentleman, who had overheard my remark, and who was one of the most active of the <HI REND="italics">chassez-croisez</HI>
010.sgm:<P>When I recovered my senses, I found myself alone on the grass, and I then managed to crawl to the hotel, where I found Ramsey awaiting me, quite unsuspicious of the cause of my detention.  I returned with him to San Luis, and soon found that, farther than having been stunned, I had not suffered any material damage.  This delayed, however, my departure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I started at last, with fair wind and tide, for San Francisco, in a small yawl, with a crew of three men, who were not only half-drunk, but were about the greatest lubbers that ever went afloat.  Before we reached the mouth of the creek they managed to run the boat on the bank, where the ebb tide soon left her high and dry.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Under these circumstances, I can not do better than introduce a sketch of the early history of California, which, however uninteresting, must he brought in somewhere; and there is no better place, I think, for imposing it on the reader, than while we are waiting for the flood tide to take us off, and are spitefully pelting, out of a bag of beans, the muddy little crabs that surround our stranded bark.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It was about the middle of the sixteenth century that stories of the existence of untold wealth first inflamed the minds and excited the ardor of the Mexicans and Spaniards.  The expedition of Hernando de Alarcon and Francisco de Ulloa had returned in safety to Mexico, after having visited the river Colorado, and the Pacific coast as high as 30&deg; North. Many and wondrous were the tales these bold adventurers related of precious stones, and gold and pearls; of Amazons, and wealthy cities; so that naturally the attention of the adventurous was turned in one direction only; and the dream of the young, the ambition of the aged, was to discover this Cibola--this undeveloped El Dorado.  The Viceroy of Mexico at this period was one Mendoza, a jealous opponent of the renowned Cortes.  This man was sufficiently sagacious to perceive the advantages of obtaining, if possible, possession of the reported gold regions, and fitted out an expedition in the port of Natividad, consisting of two vessels, which were placed under the command of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, who had with him as lieutenant Bartolom&eacute; Ferrelo.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is no honor to the viceroy that this expedition was set on foot by him, for in those days the discovery of new lands, as is well known, conferred large benefits and rewards on the potentates under whose rule the expeditions originated; while the brave fellows who risked their lives in carrying out the work were not only unrewarded then, but in few instances have been considered worthy even of a <HI REND="italics">name</HI>
010.sgm: in the history of the countries they have discovered.  It was no slight proof of courage to undertake this voyage, for it will be remembered that not only were the vessels in use of such a class that the wonder now is that they ever rode out a gale; but the impression was strong <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The expedition sailed, it appears, in 1542, jogging on at the rate of about ten miles a day.  Cabrillo discovered in succession the southern ports of California. At some of these he touched, and found the inhabitants to consist of a half-civilized tribe of Indians, who treated him with kindness.  The existence of these Indians is confirmed by later writers.  Vizcaino, who visited these shores in 1602, mentions having discovered idolatrous temples on the island of Catalina. </P>
010.sgm:<P>The surveys of this expedition are not of much value to the present age, as the nautical instruments of that period were not very true; but Cabrillo's explorations none the less assisted those who came after him, who, with instruments equally defective, hit his points with tolerable accuracy, although there was generally an error in <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Cabrillo at last worked up toward San Francisco, but the heavy surf and iron-bound coast, together with the thick fogs that hang about the bay, no doubt prevented his entering, and he resolved on returning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The command of the expedition then devolved upon Ferrelo, who bravely made another attempt; but failing in effecting a landing, he returned to Natividad, after a voyage of two hundred and eighty-three days. Sir Francis Drake next visited California in 1579; Juan de Fuca in 1595, and Sebastian Vizcaino in 1602.  This latter entered the bay of San Francisco, though probably he was not its discoverer, and proceeded in boats as far as where Benicia now stands.</P>
010.sgm:<P>In 1769 the settlement of Upper California was commenced by Spanish priests at San Diego, and several small expeditions followed in succession until 1776, when the Roman Catholic missionaries Palou and Cambon landed in San Francisco, and established their head-quarters in that place.  The settlement at this period was known by the name of Yerba Buena, from the presence of a medicinal herb which abounded in the neighborhood, and which was held in high estimation by the Indians.  Here the missionaries erected a church and other buildings, of" adobes," or sun-dried bricks.  The Mission flourished rapidly.  The Indians soon learnt, under the tuition of the Padres, the advantages of cultivating the earth; and those of them that embraced the Catholic religion began to drink rum, and value beads, as is usual with converted savage tribes.  Mexican settlers also made their appearance, and the richest portions of the country were soon appropriated by them.  Gradually cattle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>By the year 1831, the number of Christian baptisms amounted to about 7000.  After this period, the Indians, from some cause or other, perhaps from a scarcity of rum, altered their minds on the subject; and although a fresh supply of priests arrived, the number of converts rapidly decreased, so much so that in the eight years preceding the discovery of gold, only four hundred savages were caught and converted.  And if one may judge from the specimens of converted Indians that are to be found here and there in California at the present date, one has no reason to regret that the efforts of the priests were unattended with success; for, however we may deplore the abject misery and degradation of the aboriginal tribes, it is not by the mummery of a form that such souls can be redeemed, or such unhappy natures be remodeled.  On the contrary, their small glimpses of civilization offer to their view both virtues and vices equally unknown before; then, left untrammeled to choose between the two, we see the baptized savage follow his impulses until he sinks so low in the scale of men, that his original degradation stands out almost as virtue beside him.</P>
010.sgm:<P>A holy task is that of the missionary, and bravely carried out.  Let him still strive to reclaim the savage, and bring his soul to God: but yet take heed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:that the work be finished, for I have seen in my day converted tribes that were a mockery on all that sanctifies the missionary work, and had better, one would think, have eaten each other's bodies in primeval irresponsibility, than, having been only <HI REND="italics">half</HI>
010.sgm: awakened to a sense of right, but fully so to a knowledge of all that is wrong, have been left to grovel in the vices that most debase humanity.  How much more care does it not require to avert the steps of the <HI REND="italics">converted savage</HI>
010.sgm: from crime, than that of others of your flock! Is he not naturally more debased, more prone to adopt the broad and easy path that ever lies plain and palpably before him?  Can you take a young tiger from the jungle, and having caged him, soften his natural propensities easily?  You can do so only by unceasing watchfulness and coercion; cease these, and your tiger is a tiger again, as nature asserts her sway.  Somewhat so it is with the savage you allure from the freedom of his hunting-ground; you show him the advantages of domestic life, and the means of applying to his benefit the soil around him; you adapt to his comprehension the simple outlines of religion, by pointing out to him that, to live in brotherhood and amity is good (and beneficial); that to wage war and hate and eat one's enemy is bad (and detrimental); that a good Supreme Being, who can reward or punish, has said so, and that the evidence of this Supreme Being reigns, as even a savage can see, in all around.  The simple aborigine accords you his belief; regretfully, perhaps, he leaves his wild prairie and the baked heads of his enemies, and will worship the "Great Spirit," whose presence the poetry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:of his nature enables him to understand; sooner or later you baptize him, and you have your savage in the first stage of Christianity.  But now you have a savage nature on your hand; you have implanted innocently what with his impulses may grow to avarice if you leave him to himself; for if he cultivates the land among the <HI REND="italics">civilized</HI>
010.sgm:<P>In what does this fault lie?  Not so much that the man is so constituted that he must thus err, but that, like the tiger I have used for illustration, his propensities must be ever <HI REND="italics">watched</HI>
010.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">guided</HI>
010.sgm:<P>If there is fault in this, it is not, I know, on the part of those who <HI REND="italics">work</HI>
010.sgm:; but to those who direct these things it might be said that it is better to convert a few, and <HI REND="italics">in reality increase Christ's fold</HI>
010.sgm:, than sign a million with His holy symbol, yet bring their souls no nearer heaven.  Yet how fruitlessly one may argue.  To whom is the reproach, that while we <HI REND="italics">may</HI>
010.sgm:<P>There are black missionaries who work as faithfully as white, and it is a startling fact to find that many of these, leaving their colored brethren at home <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Why shall it still be said, and said again of us who are not loth to <HI REND="italics">relieve</HI>
010.sgm:<P>We may condemn the love of political power, that in the main actuated the Jesuits in their efforts to propagate their faith; but how much has not the love of power, equally reprehensible, been a bar to the cure of our evils at home?  Would the young and energetic of our clergy seek a field abroad in which to work, with little reward and great privation, if the field at home was open to them?</P>
010.sgm:<P>About the year 1845, some Americans began to congregate at Yerba Buena, and these increased so rapidly, that San Francisco was in fact an American settlement before California became a territory of the United States.</P>
010.sgm:<P>During the war that broke out between the United States and Mexico in 1846, the settlement appears to have increased in population and prosperity, although <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WINTER OF 1849.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The first discovery of gold was made in December, 1847, when some of the laborers employed at Sutter's Mill, near Sacramento, discovered some flakes while constructing a ditch; ample evidence soon existed of the truth of the first reports, and the whole population flocked to the gold fields, and shortly afterward the country became the property of the United States. Events now followed one another with great rapidity: adventurers poured in from all quarters of the globe, and ships arrived in harbor freighted with merchandise which realized tremendous profits.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The rainy season of California commences about November, and the winter of 1849 was more than ordinarily wet.  It is said that nine inches of water fell on the night of the 6th of November; the whole town, which had now become important in extent, was a perfect quagmire; all rubbish and hard materials that could be procured were thrown into the streets to form a pathway, but to no purpose; for, owing to the peculiar soil of the place, the mud was unfathomable.  The streets were impassable to mules, for there were mud-holes large enough to drown them; in those streets which had been connected by means of a pathway of bales of damaged merchandise, it was necessary to exercise great caution in crossing, for one false step would precipitate the unwary passenger into a slough on either side, in which he stood a chance of meeting a muddy grave.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The amount of rain that fell in this winter was undoubtedly so great, that it is much to be regretted no careful record was kept by some of those who now so eloquently narrate their adventures in connection with it.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The first of the conflagrations for which San Francisco has become so famous, occurred in December, 1849. By this, fifty houses and an immense quantity of merchandise were destroyed.  Another occurred a month afterward, causing an almost equal amount of damage.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The great fire of the fourth of May, 1850, commenced at four in the morning in a drinking-house, and spreading with great rapidity, was not arrested until it had consumed three hundred houses, and about a million sterling of property.</P>
010.sgm:<P>These were hard blows for the young city; but nothing daunted, the citizens renewed their exertions and in a few weeks the burnt district was again covered with buildings.  Every effort was now made to secure the city against future similar calamities; many brick houses were erected, fire companies on a large scale were organized, and reservoirs for water were constructed in different parts of the town. But on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>The old Crab-catcher.--Mr. Warren.--American Friendship.--The American Press.--Education in America.--Americans good Colonists.--Californian Correspondence.</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">April</HI>
010.sgm:<P>AT daylight the next morning we found ourselves among the shipping that lay moored in crowds in front of San Francisco.  While threading our way to the wharf, we narrowly escaped being swamped by one of the Stockton river steamboats, which, in fact, did graze our stern.  The Yankee fresh-water skippers of those days expected every thing to get out of their way, regardless of any difficulties that might prevent a small boat doing so; but one of these go-ahead commanders received, to my knowledge, a check.  A fisherman of the bay had his smack damaged, and his trawling apparatus unnecessarily carried away by one of the river boats.  His application to the captain for compensation was met with the remark, that the next time he got in the way he would swamp him. But might did not so easily triumph over right, and for this reason.  The small river boats are very low in the hull, and as the steering apparatus leads forward, the helmsman stands prominently (under a booby hatch) near the bow of the boat.  The old smack, as usual, was bobbing about with her trawls and lines out, when down comes the steamboat one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>On landing at San Francisco, I found so many changes on every side, that my knowledge of locality was at fault; wharves extended on all sides into the sea, and the spot where I last had landed was scarcely recognizable, it was now so far inland; the steam-paddy had worked incessantly, and the front of the town still advanced into the bay.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The winter had been (compared with that of 1849) a dry one, and some of the streets having been graded and planked, the town was, under the worst circumstances, navigable for jack-boots.</P>
010.sgm:<P>What first struck me, among the many changes of a few months, was that the inhabitants generally were less eccentric in dress.  When first I arrived, the people were most capricious in this respect; they wore, in fact, whatever pleased them, long hair and beards included; sobered down by circumstances, however, they had now quietly relapsed into the habits of ordinary mortals.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Places of rational amusement had sprung up, and replaced in a great measure the gambling-saloons, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I became, at last, so used to seeing my "last appearance but one" displayed on the advertising posters, that I began to associate myself with the profession altogether, and to believe my name was Warren; and what with the excitement of acting in leading parts, and the pleasant parties, and picnics, with our troupe, I forgot all about Russian River Farm, and became a very slave to the buskin.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The dreadful experience of the place had made people so nervous respecting fire, that the sound of the fire-bell would cause every man to rush to his house, and get ready for the defense of his property; and as small fires on the outskirts of the town were of continual occurrence, there was scarcely a night but the deep-toned bell would keep the citizens on the alert.  On these occasions the theatre would be deserted rapidly, while every other man would vociferate fire, but almost immediately the leading columns <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The market at this time was so overstocked with merchandise, that goods sold at auction at less than cost-price.  Ready-made clothing, in particular, was cheaper in San Francisco than it was in New York or London.   So that the storehouses being every where crammed with goods, great depression in trade existed.  The city of San Francisco at this time was in debt about a million of dollars, and the Treasury being empty, scrip was issued bearing the ruinous interest of thirty-six per cent. per annum.  But this state of affairs was remedied by funding the debt, and issuing bonds payable in twenty years, bearing interest at ten per cent.  The citizens cooperated in this movement, and submitted to a heavy tax, and thus, in spite of repeated conflagrations following on a state of apparently hopeless bankruptcy, the energy of the San Franciscans not only enabled the municipality to redeem annually a portion of their bonds, but placed the credit of the city on a firm and secure basis.</P>
010.sgm:<P>There were seven or eight churches already in San Francisco, all of different denominations--these were well attended on Sundays, but the price of pews was very exorbitant, reaching as high sometimes as ten pounds a month.  Some of these churches were built entirely in a spirit of speculation; and on asking an acquaintance once what security he had for some money he had lent, he told me, so many shares in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:---- Church; and the same building was afterward sold, I think, by auction, to satisfy its creditors. Now that ladies begin to flock into California so rapidly, the churches are crammed to overflowing on a Sunday.  The Americans are rather strict observers of congregational worship, which has this drawback, however, that it here imposes the necessity of so many becoming hypocrites on the Sabbath; for as regards the amount of religious feeling that exists at this time, one can neither judge of it by the attendance or the absence of the people from public worship.  But I will say this for them, that as a nation they are most charitable, and that they are true friends to one another in adversity; <HI REND="italics">once</HI>
010.sgm:<P>I attended one of these camp-meetings.  My old friend of the English barque, who wished to "rip up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>There are now seven daily papers at San Francisco, and each mining town of importance in the country publishes its weekly sheet.  If the Americans were not thirsty people for news, warm party politicians, and all able to read, so great a number of periodicals could never be supported.</P>
010.sgm:<P>There is an independence about American journalism in strict accordance with the character of the institutions of the country, but which, in my opinion, detracts greatly from the value of the press.  As, for instance, many journals of wide circulation, conducted by men of ability, enforce injudicious opinions that not only closely affect the vital interests of the state, but, to a great extent, the passions of the people. For this reason the American press has not so much weight with the highest class of Americans, and there is no leading journal of sufficient influence to direct and <HI REND="italics">admonish</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The Americans are prone to throw in our teeth that we are led by the "Times," and form no opinion for ourselves; but they forget that our faith in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:practical essays of that journal is not the result of a blind adherence to custom, but of the confidence that, among the rational, will ever cling to opinions that are seldom proved, under the strongest test, to be fallacious.  <HI REND="italics">Socially</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The press of England has not hitherto been widely disseminated among the working classes (fault we will say of their narrow means and education), nor, were it so, would they, as in America, be so influenced politically by its tone; but that <HI REND="italics">which is</HI>
010.sgm: disseminated either takes its tone from the "Times," so far as to echo weekly the strictures which that journal passes on our <HI REND="italics">home abuses</HI>
010.sgm:, or otherwise is conducted in the same spirit.  Therefore there is an unanimity of opinion in the English press, and as its expositions are by no means flattering, as a general rule, to the public, and meet no contradiction, we may presume, from that fact alone, that the principles it inculcates on these matters are sound.  Putting aside the slave question, the great proportion of the American press by no means devotes itself to the exposure of abuses. In the first place, the Americans are not fond of having their faults pointed out, and an editor is naturally anxious to place before his readers only what is palatable.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:Therefore the press declines to admonish, and following no just and truthful leader, each provincial journal disseminates its own doctrine, whatever that may be; and thus, in a country where all read, the press exercises its power to excite the passions, but seldom to control them.  For instance, at the time I write the press of California upholds strongly the doctrine of forcible annexation; some of these journals inform the public (many of whom, by the way, are ripe for novel enterprise) that the Sandwich Islands <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
010.sgm:<P>For, although one may admit it to be probable that in time the American people will add to their dominions the Sandwich Islands and the sickly independencies of South America, they will do so, it is to be hoped, only as becomes a great nation, and not through piracy or intimidation.  In fact, to sum up, I think a great part of the press of the United States studies the foibles of the people instead of correcting them, when they most need correction, which leads to this result, that the Americans hear of their faults through the press of other countries, and attribute those strictures to a feeling of injustice and envy.</P>
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010.sgm:<P>An American gentleman of great intelligence assured me that the good feeling which now exists (and I trust ever will) between the two countries, would have been induced long previous had the "Times" (I use his Own expression) been <HI REND="italics">less silent</HI>
010.sgm:<P>"What," he asked, "did Your leading journal ever say <HI REND="italics">in our favor</HI>
010.sgm:<P>There is great truth in this--the press of Europe <HI REND="italics">has</HI>
010.sgm:<P>But this has passed away; the superficial travels of prejudiced Englishmen (and women) no longer regulate our judgment of this country, which, indeed, even if their views were correct, has long outgrown, in its rapid prosperity, the features they depicted.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The American newspapers are conducted with talent, and warmly encourage and keep alive the spirit of energy and progress from which the country's greatness springs; their moral tone generally is good, and the amount of useful information they disseminate renders them of great value to the greater proportion of readers; but it is to be deplored that so many are connected with the press whose feelings prompt them to keep alive a jealousy and hatred of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:the mother country.  The best of us need at times to have the scales removed from our eyes, and the fallacies we hug so stubbornly must be made to fall before conviction.  Therefore, with so large a mass of readers of the lower class dependent almost on the press for information; among a people of warm blood and quick impulses, but a people whom it is as easy to mould to think calmly and dispassionately as to inflame and excite until the judgment falls before the power of doctrines flattering to national vanity; is it not to be lamented that that portion of the press to which the bone and sinew of the country looks naturally for guidance and advice, should in few instances be directed by a wise and sound policy, principally from the absence of leading journals sufficiently courageous to <HI REND="italics">chastise</HI>
010.sgm:<P>There is nothing more pleasant than to revert to the good traits of a country, particularly after having recorded what in one's judgment appears an infirmity. I allude, therefore, with pleasure to the educational system of the Americans, honorable as it is to the good feeling of the country, although it must be remembered I am speaking of the Americans as <HI REND="italics">colonists. </HI>
010.sgm: The base of the American system of education is simply to educate every body, and to develop the natural faculties; thus the way is opened to all to raise themselves, by assiduity and talent, to independence and mayhap renown.  How is it that great and wise countries in the matter of education discuss so much and so idly the manner of the doing; leaving the patient unrelieved while the wise doctors disagree?  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Now if one turns to the accounts of San Francisco in 1848, they will be found to convey a tolerably truthful account of the society of that then city of tents.  It was scarcely a fortuitous commencement for a colony, that its earlier inhabitants were for the most part maddened to excess by the easy acquisition of wealth; and that, under the influence of an all-absorbing pursuit (such as few of us, I venture to say, could under such circumstances entirely have resisted), the worst passions were exercised without control, and <HI REND="italics">selfishness</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Yet in <HI REND="italics">this</HI>
010.sgm: year a public school was opened in San Francisco supported by the people, and this school was shortly placed in the charge of an intelligent clergyman.  What better illustration can we find in proof that the Americans stand out in strong colors on this point? what better proof that they are good colonists, when under such adverse circumstances, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:the midst of riot, dissipation, and ungodliness, the first and only approach to a sense of responsibility was shown in a fostering care of the young and helpless children <HI REND="italics">not their own</HI>
010.sgm:<P>There were no bishops here, no staff, nor was the school organized by reverend men; it owed its foundation and support to the one sense of duty that no circumstances could erase from the American mind; and in this earnest desire to open to all the path to future prosperity, the grand principle of equality is better carried out than by any other feature of the people of America.  If this feeling exists, as I believe, throughout the United States, what stronger foundation-stone, speaking in a worldly point of view, can a people naturally intelligent lay down as a basis for increased prosperity? for, putting aside religion, with this education is inculcated self-reliance; self-reliance in a nation leads to mutual support and unity, and this in colonists overcomes difficulties apparently insurmountable, as ants united move the dead body of a lizard from the doorway of their home, or sailors parbuckle a gun up some apparently impracticable mountain.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The proportion of children in California was naturally small as compared with the population, yet I find that in 1853 the City of San Francisco expended the monthly sum of seven hundred and fifty pounds on its schools, in which were educated fourteen hundred children; and excellent institutions now exist there, also, for the relief of orphans and the sick and destitute. It will be remembered that the city is already deeply in debt, and that the population are averse to taxes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>The book stores of San Francisco drive a thriving trade after the arrival of each mail, but the importations consist for the most part of novels, which are greedily bought up, and find a ready sale in the mining regions.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Apparently, every Californian can read, and judging from the fact that the mails take an average of fifty thousand letters to the United States every fortnight, we may presume that there are few among them that can not write.</P>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Long Wharf.--Clipper Ships.--Chinese Emigrants.--The May Fire.--An exciting Scene.--Iron Houses.--Vallejo.--The Coyote.--Wild Geese.</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
010.sgm:<P>THE Central Wharf of San Francisco, which is nearly a mile in length, is for some distance occupied on either side by Jew slopsellers; and, as these indefatigable gentlemen insist all over the world upon exposing their wares outside their shops, the first glance down Central Wharf impresses you with the idea that the inhabitants of the district have hung their clothes out to dry after a shower of rain.  Scattered among the Jew shops are markets for vegetables and poultry, fishmongers, candy-sellers (the Long Wharfers are very fond of sugar-plums), gambling-houses of the worst repute, and drinking-shops innumerable.  Being narrow and crowded, and full of loaded drays, drunken sailors, empty packing-cases, run-away horses, rotten cabbages, excited steamboat runners, stinking fish, Chinese porters, gaping strangers, and large holes in the planks, through which you may perceive the water, it is best to be careful in walking down Long Wharf, and to turn neither to the right nor to the left.</P>
010.sgm:<P>This busy street terminates at the city front; and from thence the wharf, which extends for half a mile into the sea, is flanked on either side by ships discharging their cargoes with great order and rapidity. </P>
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010.sgm:<P>Here may be seen a fleet of those clippers to which the Californian trade gave rise.  The "Queen of the Clippers" is one of the finest and largest of these ships, and is a beautiful model; she is extremely sharp at either end, and, "bows on," she has the appearance of a wedge.  Her accommodations are as perfect as those of a first-class ocean steamer, and are as handsomely decorated; and, as it is worthy of remark that great attention has been paid to the comfort of the crew, the sooner some of our shipowners copy that part of her construction the better.  Nor should they overlook any longer that the Americans have long economized in ship labor very materially by the use of patent blocks, patent trusses, and more particularly in patent steering-gear.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It gives cause for reflection to observe how, on board these mammoth clippers, one man, comfortably protected from the weather by a wheel-house, can steer the ship with ease in any weather, and to recall recollections of big English ships beating up against the monsoon, with three and even four men at the helm, tugging to get it up, or pulley-hauling to get it down, exposed on the deck in heavy sou'-westers and painted canvas frocks, while their faces are cut to pieces by the salt spray that the wind sends drifting along the deck.  Yet comparatively few of our merchant-vessel owners have availed themselves of these improvements.  Scotland, as far as we are concerned, has most distinguished herself in the production of clippers, and the small class, similar to the "Marco Polo" and "Stornoway" stand first as specimens of mercantile naval architecture.</P>
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010.sgm:<P>The building of clippers, if not originated by, was encouraged by the discovery of gold in California, for the valuable market that was so shortly afterward opened to the United States afforded a field for the employment of ships that could perform a journey round the Horn in a space of time that would enable them to land a cargo, not only clean and in good order, but with a certain degree of regularity as regarded time.  The ships that have sailed from English ports for San Francisco have been selected from a particularly inferior class of tubs, principally from the erroneous supposition that any thing was good enough for the diggings.  Then observe the mistake!  The expensive, dashing clipper leaves New York, and, after a three months' passage, lands her cargo clean and dry in San Francisco (where the sale of packages depends very much on their outward as well as internal appearance); the English ship, which false economy has picked from about the worst in dock, after a passage of from eight to ten months, arrives in San Francisco, with <HI REND="italics">her</HI>
010.sgm: cargo.  The market has not only gone by for the articles she brings, but these, from long confinement, and her unseaworthy qualities, are landed in such an unprepossessing state as to be almost unsalable.  Nor is this all--the clipper ship having discharged, sails for China, and takes home the first teas at a high rate of freight, discharges at London, and returns again to New York, full; having accomplished a rapid voyage round the world, and, in all probability, cleared a large portion of her first cost in her first voyage.  But our English clunbungy can find no cargo to take home from San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:Francisco, there being no export; she knows better than to present herself in China as a candidate for teas; there is little chance of her getting guano, so she either goes home empty at a great expense, or, as is more often the case, is knocked down by auction for less than her value, and is converted into a floating store-ship.<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">This fact alone proves the truth of my remarks.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>It was said, I remember, when these clippers first attracted attention, and before Australia had been found to be auriferous, that we had no field for the employment of such vessels, and that our own "A 1 for thirteen-year" ships were better adapted for our trade; that they were stronger and more <HI REND="italics">lasting</HI>
010.sgm:<P>That our vessels are strong no one will deny who ever saw a teak-built ship with her heavy beams and prodigious wooden knees; that they are <HI REND="italics">lasting</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It is plain enough that we shall have comparatively few clipper ships until our enormous mercantile navy is worn out; and all we have now to regret is the stubbornness of that heart of oak whose durability we have been wont to laud in speech and song.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:the mean time, unless Aberdeen and other ports work cheerily, the Californian clippers will bid for the carriage of the teas, and take the bread literally from between our teeth; and, what is still more galling, the Yankee clippers will take our Australian trade, if they have not already done so. We have a bold competitor on the waters now; and I regret to see that, almost at the moment that the projected Panama and Sydney steam-line is withdrawn for want of <HI REND="italics">government support</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The Chinese have emigrated to California in great numbers.  Those in San Francisco are mostly engaged in mercantile pursuits, and supply their countrymen at the mines with necessaries.  There has been great outcry in the gold regions here respecting the rapidly-increasing numbers of the Chinese miners, and it was proposed forcibly to stop their immigration; it was argued, rather dog-in-the-mangerly, that they collected vast quantities of gold from the soil that of right belonged to the Americans only, and that they earned their gold-dust to their own country to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:spend.  The last objection had some justice in it; for undoubtedly it is contrary to the spirit of a young colony to encourage the immigration of a class of people who bring their own rice with them, and impoverish the auriferous soil without leaving a <HI REND="italics">"pice</HI>
010.sgm:<P>I believe there are few men who have been thrown much among the Chinese, who believe that many honest ones can be found among them; old Whampoa of Singapore, who gives Champagne dinners in a most orthodox manner, may be one; but I confess, for my Part, that from the Emperor down to the fellow in the blue shirt who begs in Piccadilly, and looks as if butter wouldn't melt in his mouth, I don't believe in them.  They are a people whose natural propensities lead them to cheat, and whose natural cunning aids this object most materially.</P>
010.sgm:<P>A short time ago it was discovered that a clique existed in San Francisco composed of a few of the wealthiest Chinese, and that these self-constituted mandarins exercised so much influence over the Chinese population of the country as to subject them to fines and bastinado, and they even went to the length of shipping some of them back to their own country; this, however, having been brought to light by the police, was temporarily checked, as these punishments were applied only for the purpose of extortion.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The Chinese themselves are so used to this kind of despotic rule, that they made no effort to resist it, even when it was assumed by those not in authority; but they behaved better under the infliction of fines <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>On the 3d of May, at eleven in the evening, the fire-bell again Startled us; but on this occasion the first glance at the lurid glare and heavy mass of Smoke that rolled toward the bay evidenced that the fire had already a firm grip on the city.  The wind was unusually high, and the flames spread in a broad sheet over the town.  All efforts to arrest them were useless; houses were blown up and torn down in attempts to cut off communication; but the engines were driven back step by step, while some of the brave firemen fell victims to their determined opposition.  As the wind increased to a gale, the fire became beyond control; the brick buildings ill Montgomery Street crumbled before it; and before it was arrested, over one thousand houses, many of which were filled with merchandise, were left in ashes. Many lives were lost, and the amount of property destroyed was estimated at two millions and a half sterling.</P>
010.sgm:<P>No conception can be formed of the grandeur of the scene; for at one time the burning district was covered by one vast sheet of flame that extended half a mile in length.  But when the excitement of such a night as this has passed by, one scarcely can recall the scene.  The memory is confused in the recollection of the shouts of the excited populace--the crash of falling timbers--the yells of the burnt and injured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>At daylight you plod home, half-blind, half-drowned, half-scorched, half-stunned, and quite bewildered; and from that time you never care to recall one-half of the horrors you l,ave witnessed on the night of the conflagration of the 3d of May.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The Dramatic Museum was "burnt out" on this occasion; and about the same time the ship I had awaited arrived.  I had expected to receive an iron house in her, but as this tenement (which I had taken great pains to have constructed in England) was landed in the shape of several bundles of bent and rusty iron plates, and irrecognizable rotten planks, I deserted the property, and allowed the owners of the wharf to throw it overboard, which they eventually did after six months' reflection.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Iron houses, under most circumstances, are a failure, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:and I write from experience in the matter.  I have sat in churches made of iron, and have been glad to get out of them for that reason.  I have thrown down my billiard-cue in disgust in iron club houses, have paid my bill incontinently and left iron hotels, and have lived in misery in an iron shooting-box of my own, which was supposed to be <HI REND="italics">very complete</HI>
010.sgm:<P>I could live comfortably at all times in my little log-hut at the "farm," but never could I endure myself inside my iron house.  When the sun shone it was too hot; as night advanced it cooled too suddenly, and at daylight I shivered.  When it was too warm, the hot iron, with its anti-corrosive paint, emitted a sickening smell; and when the rain came down on the roof it sounded like a shower of small shot.<ANCHOR ID="n10-2">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm: I lined it with wood throughout;. that is to say, I built a <HI REND="italics">wooden house</HI>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-2">The intelligent reader will observe that this WaS not the same house that was thrown overboard.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>In this age, when so many of our countrymen are emigrating, it becomes almost the duty of a traveler to recount any experience that may tend to the benefit of those who go after him; and, therefore, I trust that in remarks similar to the foregoing, which may or may not affect a peculiar branch of trade, I may be exonorated from any other intention than that of benefiting others by my experience.  I have seen so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>A friend of mine employed a man for a long time at four pounds a day, merely to superintend the erection of an iron hotel; it was completed at last, and although it had a somewhat lopsided appearance, It looked pretty well under the influence of light-green paint; but the fire came, and it "caved in," as the Americans say.</P>
010.sgm:<P>This discussion on iron buildings would have found no place here, had riot these cheerless tenements been connected with a speculation into which I was at this time induced to enter; nor would the speculation have been alluded to, particularly as it turned out a failure, were it not again inseparably connected with a peculiar feature of the country.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It appeared that the State was looking about at this time for a site on which to erect a capital, where, free from the busy hum of men, the representatives of the people might meet and do their country's work. Upon the condition that General Vallejo would expend a large amount in the erection of public buildings, a part of this gentleman's property was selected by the then Governor as the "seat of government," and upon that, a few scrubby-looking hills that bordered on the bay were surveyed and staked off, and there was your town of "Vallejo." </P>
010.sgm:<P>About this time a store-ship, laden with iron houses, belonging to a friend of mine, sunk at her moorings during a heavy gale.  When raised she was so full of mud, clay, and small crabs, that there was no possibility of rendering her cargo fit for sale at San Francisco. The bright idea occurred to me of landing these muddy materials at Vallejo, and, after allowing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The city "made to order" was then pulled down and sold for old materials, to the great delight, as may be imagined, of myself and the other speculators who had worked so assiduously to raise it, and who had received no compensation.  It is quite like the story of the Enchanted City, that was up one day and down the next; but somehow I don't find so much pleasure in recalling the history of Vallejo as I did as a boy in reading the fairy tale.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The hills of Vallejo are destitute of game, but abound in coyotes, who lead a predatory life, not altogether, I suspect, free from care or anxiety, as, excepting in the calving season, they are dependent for food on the chance carcass of some poor mired bull or over-driven mule; and, as these casualties are not of very frequent occurrence, I feel satisfied that hunger and the coyote know each other.  And indeed he has, in a great measure, himself alone to blame that his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>In the calving season the coyotes are in clover, and the little veals fall an easy prey to a pack of these nocturnal robbers.  In winter, when the wild geese cover the hills, I doubt if the coyote gains much permanent benefit, judging from the fact that I have seldom found feathers.  The geese encamp in vast armies, and at times perhaps outlying pickets and sentries asleep on their post get cut off by the enemy; but the wild goose, fool as he may be, has just so much keen relish for a good joke as to allow the coyote to reach a point where expectation has resolved itself into certainty, and then the goose decamps, harassed undoubtedly but whole in body.  The coyote has more of the dog than the fox in his composition, and is a bungling poacher at any time; one feature alone of his character proves this, inasmuch that, when suddenly disturbed, he runs but a few yards, then stops, turns round and looks at you.  A Norfolk poaching lurcher knows better than that; he would never turn his face to you for fear you should <HI REND="italics">identify him</HI>
010.sgm:<P>As, therefore, there was no employment for my rifle at Benicia, I was thrown on my resources for amusement.  Fortune again favored me; fortune, by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>In one day's search I secured two horses, one gig, three well-formed Australian kangaroo dogs, and three blood-hound whelps, just arrived from Hobert Town; these being shipped in a small schooner, in company with my iron shooting-box, I started for San Luis, and called on Ramsey, who had probably forgotten me.  I urged him at once to come and be a Vallejo-ite; he demured at first, but alas! we are all mortal; pointing with one hand to his buckskins and hunting-saddle, rotting from disuse, with the other I directed his attention to my greyhounds, then I uttered one word, "coyotes," and Ramsey struck his flag in passive submission to his destiny-and followed me.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Coyote Hunting.--My Dominions are invaded.--Thomas Kills a <HI REND="italics">Bear</HI>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
010.sgm:<P>OUR first duty, on arriving at Vallejo, was to erect a temporary shanty, and before we had been long there the materials for about fifty houses were scattered over the ground by various speculators.  Ramsey laid the foundation of a small village on his own account, and built a dwelling-house, a livery stable, and another grog-shop, in which his Champagne and tin pannikins were soon rattling away, as of old, to the sound of the fiddle.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As soon as I had erected the iron house, to which I have already alluded in terms of bitterness, we tried the projected coyote hunt.  I had two horses; one was an old gray "Texian Ranger," who had seen so much hard service that, when once adrift, he was neither to be caught with chaff or the best of oats, but had to be lassoed and dragged home by main force; once assured, by means of spurs, and bottles of water broken on his head when he reared, and sticks broken on his side when he buck-jumped, that he was "bound to go," as they say here, "the Old Soldier" (for so I named him) proved an animal of great speed and endurance, and afterward performed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>My Australian Kangaroo dogs were a cross between the bull-dog or bull-mastiff and the greyhound; like the generality of cross-bred greyhounds, they differed only from the thoroughbreds in increased size, muscle, and breadth of chest; they ran of course from sight, but were not devoid of nose.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Of the three I had procured but two proved of any value, Tiger and Bevis, and these I coupled for an experimental hunt.  I trust I may be excused from the charge of egotism in thus mentioning these animals in detail; they were my companions up to the very day I left the country; and being associated with the adventures I am sketching they will appear in my narrative from time to time.  With all his faults I owe a debt of gratitude to the "Old Soldier."</P>
010.sgm:<P>Stealing quietly away to the surrounding hills, with Ramsey on the "Old Soldier," we soon found a coyote, and I slipped the dogs; he made a straight run, but there was no chance for him, and in less than five hundred yards he was caught and worried without a fight, and I whipped the dogs off.  I was disappointed; I had hoped that the coyote would not only run well, but would make some kind of stand at the finish; but we found him invariably devoid of any pluck.  Some that we afterward saw would make an excellent start and then turn round and attempt to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:fraternize with the dogs, and these, after a time, began to recognize something of the nature of the cur in this conduct, and, after rolling the coyote over, would turn back without injuring him.<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1">In which it will be observed they were more merciful than I was; but the "coyote" comes under the head of vermin.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>It became necessary now for me to return to Russian River, and, as Ramsey and a Mr. Bottomly were anxious to accompany me, we made up a four-in-hand out of a pair of Ramsey's horses and mine, and, throwing our blankets into the old wagon that constituted our drag, we put Tiger and Bevis inside to save their feet, and started.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We arrived without accident at the river, and I found that now the rains were over, settlers were flocking in from all sides.  The river was still very high, owing to the melting snow at its source; and when the wagon floated for a minute or two as we crossed the centre of the ford, and then filled to my companions' knees, they evidently viewed with great interest this, to them, novel feature in "tooling a four-in-hand.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The sun was intensely hot, and when we had reached the opposite bank of the river, we pulled up in the shade to dine, the provisions having been secured against all injury in crossing the river.  Ramsey insisted on drinking an immense quantity of the river, which, however, he qualified with brandy; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>In the cool of the evening we arrived at the farm, where I found every body well, and glad to see me back.  As I had foreseen, settlers were beginning even to invade <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
010.sgm: dominions, and not only was the romance of the place destroyed, but the game was retiring very rapidly, and it required a long day's walk to find venison.  This of itself would have determined me to leave the valley, but other causes hastened my decision--firstly, <HI REND="italics">the onions were a failure</HI>
010.sgm:; they had come up, but the ground squirrels had proved so numerous as to destroy all vestige of the young plants; secondly, I had on one occasion disclosed at March's not only that I was <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
010.sgm: a naturalized American, but that I had no intention of bringing myself into contempt by deserting my own country from interested motives, as too many I regret to say have done.  This had become known among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>During this last visit to the old place, however, we enjoyed ourselves; the green peas had arrived at perfection, and the young fawns were excellent substitutes for lamb.  Tiger and Bevis afforded us some coursing, and Ramsey found out for the first time in his life what it was to stand knee deep in a running stream and wash a flannel shirt without soap.</P>
010.sgm:<P>While we were absent one night on an excursion, Thomas, who remained at home, distinguished himself by shooting a valuable milch cow, that had been brought up by one of the new settlers, and which, having strayed near the house, he mistook in the dark for a wild bull or a bear.  When we returned in the morning, Thomas, in great trepidation, had just completed burying the carcass near the house, and we were still laughing over the matter, when a tall settler appeared among us and inquired if we had seen "e'er a cow," to which Thomas, knowing that the settler had followed his cow's trail, fortunately replied in the affirmative, and suggested a distant hill as a celebrated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I have already alluded to Barnes's physical strength. In Norfolk he was always an expert axman, even with the stupid, broad-headed Flemish ax that we still adhere to in England; but his six months' training at the farm with the American ax had so improved on his former strike and natural powers of endurance, that he was induced one night to boast of his prowess while in company with some backwoodsmen at March's shanty.  It had already been proved that no one of the party was a match for him, as I had given him permission to fell for March's saw-mill in his leisure hours (at which work, I may mention, he often made his thirty shillings a day).  March therefore undertook to bring a man called Alexander, to take "the shine out of Barnes;" and during our stay this man arrived.  He was a Hercules in muscle, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:spare, and when, a tree having been selected, the men "stripped for work," as <HI REND="italics">Bell's Life</HI>
010.sgm: would say, there was little to choose between them in appearance, though I thought I saw an advantage on Barnes's side in point of loins.  To me it is delightful to witness a fair trial of skill and dexterity between two picked athlet&aelig;, where, as in this instance, the pleasure is unalloyed by any brutal exhibition of inflicted punishment.  Our party and that of the Americans were equally excited, but no bets were made, and there was no boastful confidence in the issue on either side.  I have mentioned elsewhere that the redwood tree retains in its growth sometimes so perfect a perpendicular that it may be cut round its centre, and yet remains erect on a calm day, supported but by a few inches of the heart.  A tree having therefore been selected of about eight feet diameter, as nearly as I can recollect, the men were placed on either side, and a few straight lines for their guidance having been chalked on the bark, they commenced work--the man on whose side the tree fell to be declared the winner, as he, of course, would have cut the deepest.  For the first part of the day the champions worked manfully, stroke for stroke, and the issue seemed to the last doubtful; but at length the strokes became weaker and slower, and then Barnes seemed to have kept something back for the finish; for after a few vigorous drives, the huge tree fell over on his side, and came thundering to the ground.  It was a touch-and-go victory, and caused no ill feeling; but Barnes, on returning home, was very unwell from over-exertion, and during the night he wandered in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I bade farewell to the little valley before its charms had so palled upon me by use as to render me indifferent to its possession, but its great charm of seclusion that first bound me to it was lost; and in my eyes it was as much "cut up" by the presence of fresh settlers, as is your country villa, sir, when a rushing railway, marking out its track directly through your favorite clump of weeping willows, sends its hot cinders on to the very lawn in front of you; but you were compensated for your villa being smoke-begrimed, and sold it, moreover, on good terms to Styles, who likes living near a railway, and being hourly reminded that his country is making "giant strides," while I, equally a victim to the march of improvement, walked out without any other reflection than that I had gone to a great deal of trouble for the sole benefit of an utter stranger.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We arrived at Vallejo without accident.  The appearance of the tailless Canadian horses brought forward their indignant owner, who demanded of me, as conductor of the expedition, an exorbitant sum, which I, of course, refused to pay, upon which he went to law; and about the time that the hotel was completed, an execution was put on it by the sheriff, for the amount claimed for two horses' tails that I never touched.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We had very little sport at Vallejo.  A few wild fowl hung about the marshes, but were very hard to secure.  Snipe and curlew also were tolerably plentiful; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Rowe was a surveying engineer of good ability, and had, previous to leaving England, scarified that country to a considerable extent in the shape of tunnels and cuttings on railways.  His present business in Vallejo consisted in surveying and laying out the plan of that city, which having completed, he was now transferring to a gorgeous map, on which the Botanical Gardens, Orphan Asylums, and <HI REND="italics">Schools for the Indigent Blind</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Rowe possessed about a dozen small Californian and Indian horses, and as these brutes were not only now wild, but were of that peculiar breed that can neither be tamed or fattened, I could not at first conceive what object Rowe had in keeping them, especially as they were all small, gaunt, and painfully ugly. I perceived that almost daily my new acquaintance, dressed in Californian spurs and leggings, would mount the horse that he generally kept by him (with the saddle always on), and proceed in search of the others which he had turned out to graze on the hills the night previous.</P>
010.sgm:<P>In the evening he would return as usual, driving his ill-looking pack before him, and these, after being inclosed for a short time, would be again turned out. On my suggesting that his animals seemed to cause him more trouble than they were worth, he at once elucidated the mystery.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>It appeared that he had received these scarecrows from time to time in payment of bad debts, contracted for surveys of the surrounding farms; they cost nothing to keep, as they lived on the wild oats, and the reason he turned them out and brought them home each day, was for the pleasure of hunting and catching them with the lasso when he could.  I soon joined him in this diversion, and the sport was most exciting. His band, as soon as they saw us coming, would have an appearance similar to this:</P>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ROWE'S LOT.</P>
010.sgm:<P>They would stand in a crowd together, looking at us out of the corners of their eyes; then, as we approached, they would go over the hills and gulches, while we rode after them, shouting and heading them back whenever we could.</P>
010.sgm:<P>After two or three hours of this exercise, they would allow themselves to be driven without much trouble into Rowe's corral.  I believe they liked the sport; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Rowe had an Indian pony of great power and endurance; it was named "Chocktaw," after the American Indian tribe, to which of right it belonged.  He had a head like a wedge of wood, and although tolerably quiet under a severe Spanish bit, he had the habit of never taking his eyes off you.  He was always suspicious, if you walked round him, and would follow you with his wild colt's eye.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Chocktaw combined the sure-footedness of the mule with the speed of the horse, and the capability of the donkey, of living and doing well upon comparatively nothing, which was so far fortunate for him as he was occasionally locked up and forgotten for a day or two, during which periods of trial he generally munched shavings, and upon being remembered and released became more suspicious than ever.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Chocktaw and the Old Soldier became fast friends, so much so, that the latter kicked other horses on Chocktaw's account, and took him under his protection generally, even to the length of eating Chocktaw's oats (which he got on Sundays), for fear, no doubt, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The unhappy Chocktaw is typical of a class of men who live continually in the torment of half-confirmed suspicions--innocents who, stopping half-way in their study of the world, are ever doubting and fearing, yet never learning, force the lesson on them as you will--"Chocktaws" to whom "Old Soldiers" are necessary--these latter cheating them, yet preventing others from doing so; finding brains for them; kicking other horses for them, but eating <HI REND="italics">their oats as recompense</HI>
010.sgm:<P>News was brought in one day that a band of elk had been seen near the place, and upon this the whole population turned out. Independently of the fact that I feared being shot by some of the party, among whom were several boys, armed with rifles, I knew that the elk does were heavy at this season, and I had no mind to assist in a butchery.  The drove was headed about nightfall in marshy ground, and about <HI REND="italics">eighteen does</HI>
010.sgm:<P>I was sorry to have lost the chance of hitting the slot of these beasts, for the bucks might easily have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>About this time I received a visit from Sir Henry Huntly, and we started on an exploring expedition; but losing our way, found ourselves at length near Napa.  Pulling up temporarily at a small house at the side of the creek to inquire the road, we found it occupied by half a dozen fine-looking fellows, who were sitting over their supper.  The invitation to join them was too heartily offered to refuse, and Sir Henry and myself, being armed each with a cast-iron knife and tin platter, attacked the Provisions as men do who lose their way, and fall happily and unexpectedly on a savory stew of antelope. We were glad enough also to be so kindly invited to pass the night there, for a day passed in the hot sun is very fatiguing, and once down, a man has to be kicked up again, particularly after a surfeit of antelope stew.  So we lit our pipes, and then, as a matter of course, we allowed gradually to leak out who and what we were.  Our entertainers consisted of four Americans and two Englishmen. These latter were army men, who had thrown up their commissions in Canada to seek a rough and adventurous life in exchange for the dull routine of barracks. So far as roughness went, they had it in perfection, and they stood it well; but the <HI REND="italics">roughest</HI>
010.sgm: roughness palls, and an adventurous life, with its fevers and privations, and hard toil in the blistering sun, soon loses its charms, and then comes the yearning for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:home, and it is best then to have something <HI REND="italics">to fall back upon</HI>
010.sgm:<P>There are few, after all, to whom either roughness or adventurous life comes aptly, although the proud man scorns to <HI REND="italics">own</HI>
010.sgm: he feels the privation he has sought as it were; but few of those who have sacrificed position, comforts, and friends elsewhere, for the pursuit of freedom and adventure, with wealth, of course, appearing in the distance, have realized their dreams, or have done otherwise in the long run than own their folly, and mourn it secretly.  Some men are born for a wild and careless life--a happy liveliness of disposition, knowledge of the world, physical health, recklessness of personal safety, indifference to social position and home comfort, all fit them for it; their creed is to do as no one else does (and they do <HI REND="italics">none</HI>
010.sgm:<P>As a rule, the fate of the minnows who will pursue an unbeaten track is certain enough.  It is generally a <HI REND="italics">great mistake</HI>
010.sgm: when men throw up on their own account a certain means of livelihood, to seek adventure and fortune in new gold countries.  It is generally a <HI REND="italics">great mistake</HI>
010.sgm: when fathers with spendthrift sons, Stupid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:sons, or lazy sons, say, "John, you are doing no good for yourself; here are five hundred pounds; go and try your luck in the diggings."  It was a <HI REND="italics">great mistake</HI>
010.sgm: when a party of gentlemen left England, in 1849, for California in a yacht of their own, and having arrived at the diggings, got disgusted, and returned very much out at elbows, with most melancholy reports respecting the gold-fields.  And these are great mistakes, for this reason; that patience under disappointment, and a disposition that can ever look sanguinely into the future, are as requisite for <HI REND="italics">"rough life</HI>
010.sgm: " as strong <HI REND="italics">hands, willing hearts</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Our entertainers occupied themselves in market--gardening, which is a peaceful and unexciting profession; and as the whole party were animated with a strong love of adventure, and were anxious for something more soul-stirring than weeding and watering beds of cabbages, soon after I last saw them they disbanded and dispersed, nor have I heard of them since.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Vegetables attain an unusual size in California, owing to the rich qualities of the maiden soil; but I have observed an insipidity in every thing that has thus rapidly matured, and size is attained at the expense of loss of flavor.  Onions and tomatoes as large as cheese plates are common.  Melons have attained the weight of fifty pounds.  Wheat and oats grow to the height of eight and ten feet, and are very prolific in the ear. Potatoes reach dimensions unheard of elsewhere; and the diameter of a cabbage is sometimes so large that the cabbage has to be seen to be believed in.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>A brutal murder had been committed at Napa previous to our arrival; the murderer had been sentenced to death, and without any ostensible reason, a free pardon for this felon was granted by the governor of the State.  During our stay here some of the most determined of the citizens of Napa frustrated this act of ill-timed mercy, and the murderer was found hung in his cell.  No further notice was taken of the matter; but this act can not be justified under any circumstances, for as the people elected the governor, and armed him with the right, had he so chosen, of setting free every convicted felon in the State, their election was a farce if his decision was not binding in the pardon he dispensed to the Napa murderer.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Another Fire.--My Geological Friend.--"Burnt out."--Sacramento. --Levee.--Hulks.--Rats.--Vigilance Committee.--Start for Volcano.--Crockett.--"Right side up."</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June, 1851</HI>
010.sgm:<P>SHORTLY after my return to Vallejo, a bright glare in the direction of San Francisco indicated too surely that the city was again in flames.  The wind was very high, and we had every reason to believe that the conflagration was general.  Having roused out the Old Soldier to his intense disgust, I reached Benicia In time to take a passage to San Francisco in the last returning Stockton boat.  We met steamers going up river crowded, that stopped and confirmed our worst fears; mine in particular, for I had felt anxious respecting the property of a friend who had shown me unceasing kindness since my arrival in the country. I learnt that his stores had already fallen, and knew that he was ruined.  It was with great difficulty we landed, for the fire had extended to the water's edge, and in many places the wharves had been disconnected; every where deep holes had been burnt in them, and some were drowned that night from this cause.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The ruins of the fire were quite deserted, the inhabitants had sought the suburbs, sorrowfully no doubt, for a night's rest; and the bright moon looked calmer than ever in contrast to the red angry embers which smouldered on every side.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I found myself alone after I had scrambled up a small hill that commanded a view of the fallen city, and I never remember feeling so solitary in my life. Small columns of red-tinted smoke rose lazily in every direction, the blackened shells of brick warehouses stood out here and there in bold relief against the moonlight, while every crevice and window in them was fantastically lighted by the glowing embers that still burnt within. Over the ruins of large drug stores ghostly lights of blue and green flickered in a supernatural manner.  Where the fire had already been extinguished, dark pits seemed to yawn, and open wells, and deep cisterns, stood ready on all sides, their coverings being burnt, to trap the unwary adventurer who might be led to explore those regions.  Not a sound broke the stillness of the night, and as the moon was overshadowed by a passing cloud, I turned and stumbled on what was either a very dead man or a very drunken one, and having seen all there was to see, I descended the hill and rejoined my companions. Lodgings were scarce enough that night, as may be imagined, nor was there a sufficient number of houses standing to accommodate the burnt-out citizens.  I was fortunate enough to meet an Hungarian geologist, who was probably the poorest man in San Francisco, for the science he professed could not at this time be put to much account in California. Were it not for the respect in which I hold a learned society at home before which "papers" arc read, and by which laws are made for the better regulation of geology, I should say that the reason why the votaries of this science did not succeed in California, arose from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Wherever you go now you will meet a few Hungarians, and I have ever found them a superior class of men--quiet and unobtrusive in their habits, and of very liberal education.  My geological friend had a small hut built among the sand-hills.  As we walked toward it we were called on to deliver by three gentlemen of the road, but as, happening to be both armed, we made the usual demonstration in such cases, we went on our way without molestation.  Not but what it would have been a kindness to have robbed the Hungarian, for though he had no money in his pocket, and his clothes were valueless, he was staggering through the deep sand under the weight of an enormous bag of quartz he had collected, every ounce of which I foresaw was destined to be pulverized in a hand mortar and tested, involving a great amount of labor but <HI REND="italics">no profit</HI>
010.sgm:<P>When I reached the burnt city all was again animation, and on every side preparations were being made for rebuilding it of brick and stone.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I have alluded to a friend; it was with sorrow that I viewed the wreck of the noble warehouses that had been his: but yesterday, as it were, he had pointed to these buildings with pride, as evidencing his successful efforts, though never forgetful to whom success was owing, while to-day a heap of ashes marks the emptiness of human calculation. A week ago and his glorious hospitality assembled hundreds to commemorate the completion of a stately warehouse--today the firm is hopelessly and irretrievably ruined.</P>
010.sgm:<P>He lies now in the cemetery outside San Francisco, and those who have not forgotten the warm grasp of a hand that was ever ready to succor--now that that hand is cold, will recognize this sketch, and will not blame me for recording this slight tribute to his memory.</P>
010.sgm:<P>After a diligent search I was directed by the appearance of sundry steel buttons to the ashes of what had been my wardrobe; every thing had been destroyed, and among the papers I had lost were the notes and sketches of the country that I had collected to this date, which notes, after three years, I am rewriting from memory.</P>
010.sgm:<P>After contemplating mournfully the whitened remains of two little dogs that lay side by side, with the blackened ashes of my dress coat and patent leather boots, I turned from the spot, and shortly afterward encountered Sir Henry Huntly, who, in an equally melancholy frame of mind, had just completed a survey of his "ashes;" we agreed to pay a visit to the northern mines, and made preparations for a start.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The wooden wharves had for the most part been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The mail steamer had come in from Panama, and ladies who had just arrived to find their husbands, houseless and ruined, were hurrying careworn from their toilsome journey sorrowfully to seek a temporary shelter in Sacramento.  There were troupes of actors, who, forgetting all rivalry in their common adversity, felt the reality of tragedy.  The fire-bell had arrested their performances, and though they worked ever so manfully at the breaks, the temples of Thespis had been swept away in the storm, and with them their wardrobes and arrears of pay. There were professional gamblers for whom the losing card had now turned up, who, burnt out of their tinsel saloons, were starting for the mines, to commence life again in a thimble-rigging tent, until growing prosperous they could work gradually back again to San Francisco, where the tinsel saloons were already being rebuilt.</P>
010.sgm:<P>There were speculators who had a "snug lot" of flour or pork up country, and who were off to fetch it down and lock it up in store-ships, until the wants of the community should make it worth its weight in gold almost.  There were small traders, whose debtor and creditor accounts had been, fortunately for them, buried in oblivion by the general ruin, and who talked furiously of their losses, and bespattered their hard fate with curses of the loudest and deepest character. And there were many who like myself had come to satisfy their curiosity, just as we go to the sea-shore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Passing Benicia we entered Suisun Bay, on the shores of which a city was attempted -- New York by name-- but failed.  There is something to admire in the audacity of speculators, who finding themselves possessed of a few acres of swamp, wave their wands and order a city to appeal.  The working human tide of California ebbed and flowed past New York with great regularity, but all commands to arrest it, and direct it from its natural course were futile as regarded that city, which really presented no advantage that I could see.  It is now dusk, and we enter the Sacramento river.  Presently we pass a large steamboat going down, who gives us a close shave, and complimentarily strikes three bells, upon which we strike three bells; and in a few minutes we pass a small steamboat also going down, who gives us a closer shave, and shrieks three times out of something connected with her steam-pipe, upon which we groan three times out of something connected with our steam-pipe. These salutes are invariably observed, and the greater the rivalry between the boats, the louder they scream at each other.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The banks of the river are, for the most part, marshy; but in the fading light we catch glimpses here and there of small cultivated inclosures, with comfortable-looking shanties peeping between the oak trees.  After supper every body turns in, and at daylight we arrive at Sacramento.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Sacramento is built on the banks of the river, from the encroachments of which it is as often drowned as its sister city is burnt. The houses are gayly painted, and the American flag waves in every direction.  The streets are wide, and some trees that have been left standing in the town give it a cheerful appearance.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is an American town at the first glance.  An immense quantity of sign-boards stare at you in every direction; and if any thing would induce a man to purchase "Hay and Grain," "Gallego Flour," "Goshen Butter," or any other article for which he has no want, it would be the astounding size of the capital letters in which these good things are forced upon his notice.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Every other house is an hotel or boarding-house; for, with few exceptions, every one is put out to "livery," as it were, in Sacramento; and in hard times, when cash is scarce, one half of the population may be said to feed the other half gratuitously, or on credit, which often amounts to the same thing; thus affording a beautiful illustration of mutual support and confidence.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Sacramento is terribly dusty.  The great traffic to and from the mines grinds three or four inches of the top soil into a red powder that distributes itself every where.  It is the dirtiest dust I ever saw, and is never visited by a shower until the rainy season sets in, and suddenly converts it into a thick mud.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I was introduced to a club of Sacramento gentlemen, who had formed themselves into what they called a literary society.  In their rooms was to be found what in those days was scarce--a tolerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The weather was oppressively warm, and the iced "drinks"<ANCHOR ID="n12-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1">"Drinks" are not necessarily composed of intoxicating liquors: on the contrary, the principal ingredients are ice, syrup, and herbs. I mention this because <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
010.sgm:<P>A lev&eacute;e, or sea-wall, has been built in front of the city, to protect it from the river when it rises with the high spring tides; but the river generally undermines these works, and flows over the surrounding plain as it has been wont to do for ages past.</P>
010.sgm:<P>A large number of old dismantled hulks, now converted into floating houses, are moored along the front of the lev&eacute;e, and it is from these, probably, the rats first landed that are now so distinguished at Sacramento for their size and audacity.  These animals come out after dark in strong gangs, as if the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Ten thousand dollars were offered, I was told, to the man who should clear the town; and, seduced by this bribe, some one in the rat-catching line volunteered to draw all the rats into the country, and there inclose them in a paddock, to be publicly exposed previous to a massacre; but whether the rats thought it best to leave well alone, and be content with the comfortable quarters and nice pine-apple cheeses they enjoyed in the city, or whether they objected to country air, does not appear; but they never went out to the paddock, except one, who is reported to have approached within a reasonable distance of the vain-glorious rat-catcher, and then standing on his hind legs, after the manner of rats, and scratching the tip of his nose contemplatively with his paw, he turned tail for the city, causing grievous disappointment to five terrier dogs, who ineffectually chevied him in.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The conflagrations of San Francisco had been attributed to incendiarists, and as many attempts to fire the town had been frustrated, it is probable that this was the case. A Volunteer-Guard, therefore, patrolled the city of Sacramento at night, to guard against this evil, and to protect the inhabitants from the wholesale plunder of organized bands of burglars.  Crime had increased so rapidly of late in San Francisco, and robbers and incendiarists had become so emboldened by the impotence and venality of the justiciary, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>So far was well; but this society, composed of men who <HI REND="italics">smarted under personal loss</HI>
010.sgm:, attributed, <HI REND="italics">perhaps unjustly</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Men detected, as was supposed, in the act of <HI REND="italics">felony only</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It is useless now to dwell on the summary executions that were put in force in half a dozen cases by the Vigilance Committee; no one would defend their acts, and they met with opposition at the time from the better class of citizens; the memory of then, may pass away, but they certainly had the effect at the time of ridding the country of a set of desperate men, and of restoring a degree of security to the inhabitants of San Francisco that had never previously been enjoyed.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Colonel D-----, a friend of Sir Henry's, had control of a quartz vein at a place called Volcano, in the northern mines, and we determined upon an inspection of this vein, which was reported to be highly auriferous.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We started at daybreak, in a light spring-wagon, and taking with us our blankets, we were soon five miles from Sacramento, and pulled up at the young town of Brighton.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Colonel D----- appeared to be the owner of Brighton; and, being a sporting-man, he had constructed a race-course here; with the exception of the race-course <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The road was straight and level, and on either side, inclosed by fences, were well-cultivated farms; numerous dwelling-houses lined the road, and it was difficult to believe that the signs of civilization and industry that met us on all sides, were the result of two years' occupation of the country by gold-hunters.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As we left Brighton we overtook long lines of wagons, heavily laden with stores for the mines; and these, drawn by innumerable oxen, plowed up the deep dust to such an extent as obliged us to cover our faces as we passed then,,  We met wagons coming in, containing miners, on whom, to judge by their appearance generally, a bath, a shave, and a new suit of clothes would not be thrown away; and I have no doubt they indulged in these luxuries on their arrival at Sacramento.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We stopped to breakfast at a house of entertainment kept by one Crockett, who had a very pretty wife; but the possession of this luxury, so far from humanizing Crockett, appeared to keep him in a continual fever of irritation; for he was jealous, poor fellow! and used to worry himself because there was ever a dozen or two of hairy miners gazing in a bewildered manner at Mrs. C.; but, if report speaks truly, the bonnet and boots of a "female" had been successfully exhibited in this region at a dollar a head (a glimpse of them being thought cheap even at that price), surely, therefore, Crockett might have excused the poor miners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Crockett carried a revolver of disproportionate size, he not being a large man, and this instrument he occasionally used upon provocation.  A great number of miners had looked at Mrs. Crockett on the morning of our arrival, and her husband had not quite finished foaming at the mouth in consequence, when we entered the house.  It was some time before he condescended to be civil; but having at length informed us that he was "so riled that his skin cracked," he added that he was a "devilish good fellow when he was ` <HI REND="italics">right side up</HI>
010.sgm:<P>We left our host "right side up," and proceeding on our way, we soon lost sight of the cultivated country, and began to traverse undulated plains studded with the dwarf oak. The road now gradually becomes worse, and has long ceased to be level; we pass roadside houses, whose names indicate the localities in which they are placed: "Rolling Hills," "Willow Springs," "Red Mountain," and so forth.</P>
010.sgm:<P>After traveling twenty miles we ascend the first range of hills; the pine-tree appears, and here and there we catch glimpses of the American Fork River.  As we leave the plain, and ascend the wooded hills, trails may be observed indicated by blazed trees, leading to mountain gorges, where diggers are at work.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>An old She-goat.--Our Mineralogist.--Gold Diggers.--Murderer's Bar.--The Theorist puzzled.--Mining Laws.--Jumping Claims.--The Miner's Life.--"Let her Slide."--Hostile Indians.--We are disgusted.--Fire-proof Houses.</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
010.sgm:<P>WE reached the Salmon Fall diggings about noon, and, without halting, crossed a wooden bridge that had been built here on the north fork of the American River; we paid five dollars toll to its enterprising owner, and ascended the opposite hill.  The road here became so uneven that we got out of the wagon in preference to being pitched out, and we were kept very busy in locking the wheels when it went down hill, and pushing behind when it went up.  We passed no houses now, but trails led off on either side, while occasionally we encountered solitary miners "prospecting" near the road.  "Prospecting" is the term applied to a pursuit of knowledge under difficulties, that is, searching for gold where no trace of it is apparent on the surface.<ANCHOR ID="n13-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm: There are plenty of "prospectors" in the mines, but the profession scarcely pays, for the "prospector" is the jackal who must search for many days, and, when he has found, the lion, in the shape of the old miner, steps in and reaps the benefit.  So that there is something to be learnt in the diggings, for undoubtedly one of the first principles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A PROSPECTOR</P>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1">Looking, in fact, for new diggings.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>We stopped at dusk at a house a little off the trail, and, having had Supper, we spread our blankets on the ground, and being tired were soon asleep; but we soon awoke again, for, separated from us by a canvas screen, was a young goat, whose dismal bleatings made "night hideous:" vain were the Imprecations that were showered on the goat's head; daylight discovered him still crying, and us awake and unrefreshed.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As we prepared to start, in rather a sullen humor, what was our astonishment when our host accosted us smilingly thus: "I had an addition to my family last evening, gentlemen, and as fine a boy as ever you saw!"  So he must be, thought we, to have a voice like a goat; and, as we went on our way, we recalled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>As the wagon followed the trail, we walked through the forest at the side; the botanist of our party had now ample employment, and tortured a new flower at each step; while our mineralogist pocketed specimens with such fervor that their accumulated weight began at last to tell severely on his frame, upon which he discharged his gleanings surreptitiously, to our great amusement, for we insisted that he had dropped them by accident, and made him pocket them again.  If the people of this world had but to carry their hobbies up a dusty mountain, under a hot Sun, in the shape of a bag of quartz, how soon they'd cast them off!</P>
010.sgm:<P>At noon, having reached the ridge of the mountain, we had an extended view of the gold country as it stretched away for miles beyond us in a succession of steep red hills; through these the American Fork rushed impetuously, and huge masses of redwoods clothed the highest mountains; while, in the distance, the white peaks of the Sierra Nevada were perceptible; those famous mountains of which the reputed wealth is still as much the Dorado of the Californian diggers, as were the placer fields before me once the dream of the Mexicans of the sixteenth century. "Prospectors" visit these cheerless snows never to return; but, like the discontented squirrel of the fable, who would ascend the sun-lit hills that looked so much like gold, reach them, utter a moral, and die.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>A turn of the road presented a scene of mining life, as perfect in its details as it was novel in its features. Immediately beneath us the swift river glided tranquilly, though foaming still from the great battle which, a few yards higher up, it had fought with a mass of black obstructing rocks.  On the banks was a village of canvas that the winter rains had bleached to perfection, and round it the miners were at work at every point.  Many were waist-deep in the water, tolling in bands to construct a race and dam to turn the river's course; others were intrenched in holes, like grave-diggers, working down to the "bed rock."  Some were on the brink of the stream washing out "prospects" from tin pans or wooden "batteas;" and others worked in company with the long-tom, by means of water-sluices artfully conveyed from the river.  Many were coyote-ing in subterranean holes, from which from time to time their heads popped out like those of squirrels, to take a look at the world, and a few with drills, dissatisfied with nature's work, were preparing to remove large rocks with gunpowder. All was life, merriment, vigor, and determination, as this part of the earth was being turned inside out to see what it was made of.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The air was so still and clear that the voices rose to us with startling distinctness, and when a head appeared from a distant pit, and its owner vociferated, "Row are you, Frank?" I though at first he meant me, and was on the point of replying, "Well and hearty, thank him.  How was he?"</P>
010.sgm:<P>Small patches of garden surrounded the village, which bore so palpably the stamp of cheerfulness and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Had all the diggings been named in accordance with the circumstances that ushered them individually into public notice, there would be more Murderer's Bars than the traveler would well know what to do with, unless they were numerically arranged like the John Smiths in the muster-roll of a marching regiment.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The name is unpleasantly candid; there are plenty of "diggings" that can record their tales of blood much more forcibly than Murderer's Bar, but under such peaceful titles as "Diamond Springs," or "Happy Valley," they bring no shudder to the traveler.  So that we learn another thing at the diggings, which is, that it is ridiculous to be a Publican and make a clean breast of it to every stranger, when such great immunity is gained under the garb of the Pharisee.</P>
010.sgm:<P>One would ask how it is that Murderer's Bar, despite its name, is a peaceable village, where each man's wealth, in the shape of ten feet square of soil, is virtuously respected by his neighbor; it is not because there is enough for all, for every paying claim has long ago been appropriated, and the next comer must go further on.  There is a justice of the peace (up to his arms in the river just at present), and there is a constable (who has been "prospecting" a bag of earth from the hill, and been rewarded with a gold flake of the value of three cents); these two, one would suppose, could scarcely control two or three hundred men, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>If a man wanted a pickax or a shovel, and thought to help himself to one of those that lie about at all times at Murderer's Bar, he would find it inconvenient if discovered; for, as there is no extenuating clause of hunger or misery in the diggings, theft is held to be a great crime; in all probability the offender would be whipped at the tree; and this brings us again to the perplexing subject of Lynch law as relating to the miners.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I venture to say that it will puzzle the theorist to determine how far the roving population of the mining regions in California have been justified in taking measures to eject the bad and worthless from among them; for all rules and precedents fall before the strong argument of self-preservation. When Christian and his shipmates landed at Pitcairn's Island and made laws for the regulation of their small colony (happily little needed), they acted as much upon the principle of Lynch law as did the miners; for these latter were equally without the reach of the laws under which they had been born.  Where, after all, was the great difference in the first trial by jury and the Lynch execution among a colony of men living far from civilization?  Was the peace of a community of honest men to be disturbed by crime and bloodshed, unpunished, when, from circumstances, the law of their country was unable to protect them?  These <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>On the other hand, the opponent would point to the fearful instances on record of men being hurried to eternity without preparation--victims to the over-wrought feelings of an excited mob.  The defense of self-constituted law is untenable, yet there are instances in which small communities have seemed to me justified in enforcing, by the only means at their command, the order so necessary in such a state of society as that of the mountain gorges of California.</P>
010.sgm:<P>But when we see this law "subverting law" in a city like San Francisco, then we are forced sweepingly to condemn, once and for all, all that bears the name of Lynch, and we feel loth to admit that in any case the end can ever justify the means.  Still it is a question, taken from first to last, that one may split straws on, when we see how peacefully Murderer's Bar progresses, not under the <HI REND="italics">execution</HI>
010.sgm:, but under the <HI REND="italics">fear</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The mining population have been allowed to constitute their own laws relative to the appointment of "claims," and it is astonishing how well this system works.  Had the Legislature, in ignorance of the miner's wants, interfered and decided that a man should have so much, and no more, of the soil to work on, all would have been anarchy and confusion.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Whereas now, every "digging" has its fixed rules <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I have had my claim in the digging more than once, of ten feet square; if a man "jumped" it, and encroached on my boundaries, and I did'nt knock him on the head with a pickax, being a Christian, I appealed to the "crowd," and my claim being carefully measured from my stake and found to be correct, the "jumper" would be ordered to confine himself to his own territory, which of course he would do with many oaths.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is customary to leave your mining tools in your claim, to indicate to all new-comers that it is occupied, and as this rule is recognized, it saves a great deal of unnecessary explanation; but it has often struck me that if in the quiet and virtuous hamlet of Little Pedlington, a market gardener were to leave his spade outside as a sign of occupancy, he would not detect that implement in the morning, in spite of the vigilance of the one policeman, who guards that blissful retreat.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We descended the cliff by a short cut; the mineralogist <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Gongs sounded at this moment, and the red clayey population flocked in to dine, looking disproportionately dirty in contrast with their white houses: I did not see a woman in the "camp."  But these things are being better ordered now, and I can foresee the day when the traveler from Murderer's Bar shall speak of anxious mothers rushing from the white tents with soap-sud arms to rescue embryo miners from the gutter; and when flaxen-headed urchins shall gaze suspiciously at the approach of such as I, and running back to their parents, will exclaim, "Oh! daddy, here's a Britisher!"</P>
010.sgm:<P>The gold is found here in coarse flakes, and the bank washings, from all accounts, average five or six dollars a day per man.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The days had passed when diggings were abandoned, so soon as they ceased to reward a day's toil with less than an ounce or two of gold, and "chunks" and "big strikes"<ANCHOR ID="n13-2">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-2">Deposits of gold.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>Much happier the miner, when, as at Murderer's Bar, his toil is regularly rewarded with a smaller gain, for his health is no longer impaired by feverish excitement and drink, and the necessaries of life are placed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Leaving the village and passing some hills, the sides of which were overgrown with the white azalia, we reached another part of the river, where was a ferry-boat, and here we found our wagon.  On the opposite side of the river the ascent was very steep, and would have been impracticable for wagons, had not the owner of the ferry excavated a portion of the mountain, and otherwise constructed a road.</P>
010.sgm:<P>For this outlay of capital the ferryman was reaping a rich harvest; having thus opened the only practicable trail at this time to the more northern mines, he had secured to himself the toll of every wagon passing to or from those regions, and these tolls amounted in one year to sixty thousand dollars (&pound;12,000). The original capital was, I understood, the result of successful digging; and I mention this circumstance, as it proves two things; first, that fortunes in the mines are not dependent on the discovery of little nests of gold, as some suppose, but on the judicious application in a new country of the small capital which a little steady work with the pick-ax will insure to any industrious and healthy man; and, secondly, that a large portion of the gold amassed in mining regions is expended upon the permanent improvement of the country; so that the export of the "dust" is no criterion of the yield.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Bridges, ferries, roads, water-courses, dams, hotels, and stage-coaches, have nearly all been started by means of the capital obtained from the soil over which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>In such places you may fasten a rope to the axle of the wagon, and passing the other end round a tree or rock as a check, you may let her "slide," which she will do without any further trouble on your part.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We were now approaching a spot where a few days previously the Indians had made some successful descents upon mining parties, cutting off some of their number.  The Indians of this region promise to be a great annoyance, for they are mounted and brave, and are gradually becoming possessed of rifles.</P>
010.sgm:<P>There is an Indian commission in the country, and portions of territory, called "Indian Reserves," have been marked out as in other States, and presented to the Indians from their good father, the President. These "Reservations" the Indians accept and occupy; but the lurking idea still remains, that the rest of the country is theirs also, and in the mean time they "lift hair,"<ANCHOR ID="n13-3">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-3">Scalp.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>When Indians-laboring under the ridiculous notion that any thing can belong to them that the white man wants--become troublesome, it is customary to drive them back; but the Indians of this region when so driven, will find their revenge in carrying on an exterminating warfare against the overland emigration--at least so it appears to me.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Still, the policy of conciliation pursued by the "Commissioners" is the only one that lies open, and if they can persuade these savages "that half a loaf is better than no bread," they will have carried out their diplomatic mission to its full extent.  But it is easier to lull Indian suspicions than to eradicate them; and unfortunately for all parties, these aborigines cherish morbid ideas relative to the "graves of their fathers," from which, under the influence of diplomacy, they have been induced to retire: and certainly in those cases, where their progenitors have been buried in auriferous soil, their remains are not more religiously respected than would they have been had their fate consigned them to some of our intramural burying-grounds.  For although, in a civilized country, one's great-grandmother's skull may be thrown up with impunity, when her lease of the grave is out, these Indians cling to the absurd superstition that the great "Manitou" looks wrathfully on those who willfully disturb the dead!</P>
010.sgm:<P>We ascended hill after hill, and by noon, being hot, tired, and dusty, the scenery had no longer charms for our eyes; we passed gigantic redwoods only to sneer at them; we pooh-pooh'd cascades that fell from masses of black basaltic rock; the honey-suckles that lent their sweetness to the air around us, were pronounced disgusting; and even the botanist reproached the yellow poppies with being "stinking," as if he couldn't have borne with them.</P>
010.sgm:<P>But when we pulled up at "Smith's ranche" and bathed and dined, we dismissed these unhealthy feelings, and took the honey-suckles to our bosoms <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Where we now were, the main trail was little worn, but at a certain point we struck off to the right through the forest, and following the "blazed trees" we suddenly emerged on a clear and rocky ledge on the side of the mountain.  Here was the quartz vein we had conic to see, and its thirteen American owners lived upon the spot in a couple of log huts.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We were received with great hospitality, although this was of less substantial kind than it would have been, had not our entertainers been "out of every thing" but flour, water, and tea.  We had fortunately brought some provisions with us, otherwise we might have indulged in the luxury of a mountain appetite longer than was conducive to comfort.  During two days we inspected the quartz mine, and having to the best of our ability satisfied ourselves of its wealth, we retraced our road to Sacramento, taking care to avoid the residence of the "old she goat," but calling on Crockett, whom we again found with his "skin cracking" at some imaginary insult to his wife.</P>
010.sgm:<P>When we reached San Francisco we found that preparations were going on, on all sides, for erecting brick and stone builings in lieu of combustible shanties.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The style of architecture in vogue was less remarkable for cunning design than for its sturdy fire-proof <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Joe Bellow.--Stockton.--A Bear Trapper.--Bear and Bull Fights.--An uneasy Bear--Californian Inns.--Natural Roads.--Cool Driving.--I kill a Flea.--Sonora.--The Evening commences.--French Emigrants.--A Drinking Bar.--Number Eighty.--A Corral and a Moral.</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
010.sgm:<P>So many reports had reached San Francisco at this time of the discovery, in various parts of the mining regions, of auriferous veins of quartz of immense wealth, that all that portion of the population who were in waiting for something to turn up, had already departed for the mountains in search of gold rock.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Although not exactly belonging to this class, it was my destiny to hear from one Joe Bellow an account of a certain mineral district, a portion of which, it appeared, had been showered by Fortune into his lap.  His description was resistless.  His natural volubility, trained as it had been by his professional duties as an auctioneer, overcame all obstacles that I could raise, and I succumbed to his earnest entreaty that I would visit the mine in question and feast my eyes, as he had feasted his, on the glittering wealth which nature had here exposed to view, and of which he extracted a specimen from his pocket of the most satisfactory description.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The mine was situated in the vicinity of Sonora, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>On starting from San Francisco for the mines, it was but natural to bid adieu to cleanliness and comfort for the time being; and having so fortified myself, I was better able to withstand the intolerable filth of the "Jenny Lind."  She has since "blown up," which is about the only thing that could have purified her.</P>
010.sgm:<P>At daylight we arrived at Stockton, which I shall allude to more fully by-and-by, and at once landed and secured our places in the stage then about to start for the town of Sonora.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The stage-coach was of American manufacture, and of the class known as "Concord" coaches.  It carried nine inside and tow out.  Our driver was a colonel, and his name was Reed.  He was one of the best of whips, and, as proprietor of the line by which we were now traveling, he was making money very fast. Having been forestalled in the box seat by a very hairy miner, I completed, in company with Mr. Joe Bellow, the complement inside, after paying the gallant colonel an "ounce" for passage money.  This was a "reduced fare," occasioned by an opposition having lately made its appearance on the Sonora road; the bare mention of this emulative vehicle raised the colonel's "dander."  With a crack of the whip we started at a good pace behind four well-built, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Lines of stages now traverse the country in every direction, and there is scarcely a canvas mining village that is debarred from communication in this way with the principal towns.  The horses used by these lines are of the best quality; for a Yankee stage-driver knows wherein true economy lies; but the capital required to start a line is very considerable, and as soon as the profits begin to "tumble in pretty freely," as Colonel Reed remarked, up starts an opposition--for stage-driving is a favorite speculation! Our inside passengers consisted of a young Canadian woman, who traveled under the protection of an ill-looking dog, a kind of Irish Yankee, who was very quarrelsome and bumptious, and carried his revolver in a very prominent position.  We had two or three miners, who, as a matter of course, brought their rifles and blankets with them into the coach, and who squirted their juice at passing objects on the road with astonishing accuracy.  We had, however, one decided character.  This was a man who, as he gratuitously informed us, was professionally a bear-hunter, bear-trapper, and bear-fighter; who, in fact, dealt generally in grizzly bears.  When he shot bears -and it appeared he lived in the mountains-he sold the meat and cured the skins; but when he was fortunate enough to trap a fine grizzly alive, a rich harvest generally awaited him.  The grizzly was immediately transferred, bound head and foot, to a large and strong cage; and this being mounted on the bed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>A bull and bear fight is, of all exhibitions of this description, the most cruel and senseless.  The bear, cramped in his limbs by the strict confinement that his strength and ferocity have rendered necessary, is placed in the arena; and attached to him by a rope is a bull, generally of fine shape and courage, and fresh from the mountains.  Neither animal has fair play, and, indeed, in most instances, each one avoids the other.  The bull's power of attack is weakened by the shortness of the tether, while the bear, as above mentioned, has scarcely the  free use of his muscles.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The bull invariably commences the attack, and the immense power  of the bear's fore-arm is then exemplified; for, raising himself on his hams, he meets the coming shock by literally boxing the bull's ears; but this open-handed blow saves his entrails, and the bull swerves half stunned, while his horns graze Bruin's skin.  But if the bull approaches in a snuffing, inquisitive kind of manner, the bear will very probably seize his enemy's nose, and half suffocate him in his grip.  The fight generally ends without much damage on either side, for the simple reason that neither of the combatants means mischief</P>
010.sgm:<P>I was sleeping one night at Campo Seco, a mining village in the southern mines, the houses of which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:were, for the most part, composed of canvas, the "balance," as they say here, being of muslin.  The camp was very full, as on the day previous, Sunday, a long-expected fight had come off between a grizzly bear and a cinnamon bear.  I had heard that, after an uninterrupted embrace between the two of about, four hours, the grizzly had been declared the victor, which was not so extraordinary, considering that he weighed about 1200 pounds, and that you could not have driven a ten-penny nail through his hide, while the cinnamon's weight was quoted at 400 pounds.  I was "putting up" with an acquaintance who kept a store in a small canvas house, and he having, with true mining generosity, opened a bale of new red blankets for my temporary accommodation, I was soon asleep.  About daylight I was awoke by what I imagined to be the moaning of a man in pain, and the occasional disturbance of the canvas wall nearest my sleeping-place satisfied me as to the locality. The moaning soon became deeper, and occasionally the canvas yielded to some heavy weight that pressed against it.  Presently was heard a smash of crockery and a tremendous roar; upon which my host started up, and placing a revolver in my hand and seizing his rifle, he rushed out of the tent, vociferating, "Come on!" Following him into the adjoining room, which formed his kitchen, and occasionally a stable for his old mule, my eyes at once lit upon the cinnamon bear, whom my host had provided with lodging at the nightly charge of one dollar.  The bear was fortunately chained to a strong stake in the centre of the hut; otherwise, "all smarting, with his wounds <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The weather being at this time fine and the roads in good order, we passed, throughout the whole length of our journey, innumerable wagons laden with winter provisions for the mines; and droves of mules--patient little brutes, some as small as donkeys--staggering under barrels of liquor and cases as big as themselves; each drove led, as a matter of course, by an old white mare with a bell.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As we neared the Stanislaus River, distant thirty miles from Stockton, every one inside became sociable, except the Irishman, whose jealousy had been aroused to a fearful pitch by J. Bellow, who entertained the fair Canadian in French, a language unknown to her protector.  During our journey J. B. had not been inactive, having already disposed, conditionally, of sundry bags of sugar to the miners, and a box or two of German cigars to the bear-hunter; samples of these articles having been extracted from his capacious pocket.  Crossing the river Stanislaus at a fordable spot, we pulled up at a large wooden house, and alighted to dine and wash off the dust with which we were covered.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The immense traffic carried on on the roads that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>There seems to be a certain hour of the day for every traveler in California to breakfast, dine, or sup; and should he not arrive at a roadside house at one of these specified hours, he will get no meal; and could the traveler by any possibility be present at each and every hostel at the same moment, he would find a stereotyped bill of fare, consisting, with little variation, of a tough beefsteak, boiled potatoes, stewed beans, a nasty compound of dried apples, and a <HI REND="italics">jug of molasses. </HI>
010.sgm:<P>Dinner over, we mounted a strong spring wagon in exchange for our covered coach, which had too much top hamper for the mountain trail we had before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>For instance, we arrive at a part, that, skirting the base of a hill, presents a rapid declination to the left, which is a very hard and rocky-looking ravine.  Colonel Reed exclaims, as he places his foot on the break, which works from the box, "Hard up to the right!" upon which the insiders loll their heads and bodies out on that side of the vehicle to preserve its equilibrium.  We had to "hard up" a great many times either to one side or the other, during which time J. Bellow always considered it necessary to assist the fair Canadian; whereupon the Irishman looked fierce and talked large, but finally one of the miners told him, in a quiet but unmistakable manner, that "if he didn't 'dry up' he'd chuck him out of the stage."  Whereupon the Irishman did dry up for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:rest of the journey; and shortly after arriving at Sonora we heard of his being detected attempting to pass off <HI REND="italics">bogus</HI>
010.sgm:, or imitation gold dust, and he narrowly escaped being lynched by the mob.  In the course of the afternoon I obtained the box seat, and engaging the colonel at once on the subject of horse-flesh, I soon obtained from him a great amount of useful knowledge on the subject of American stock, of which I am a great admirer.  As we neared Sonora, the colonel's attention was almost entirely occupied by his team, for in many places the trail led through deep gulches, into which previous volcanic eruptions had showered an infinity of small cindery rocks, which, close enough together to prevent wheels getting through them, were just sufficiently high to capsize the cart if the wheels went over them.  We arrived at the summit of a "used up" crater, and, having a long descent of this description before us, the inside passengers were ordered out; the break was put on, worked by the colonel's leg on the box.  I held on according to orders.  We slided down in famous style, first over on one side then the other, the colonel occasionally addressing his team with "D--- you don't touch one of them!" meaning the rocks, through which we were picking our way.  But, near the bottom of the hill, we got our off-wheels into a <HI REND="italics">mud-hole</HI>
010.sgm: and declined gently on that side, a fine specimen of volcanic formation preventing the wagon from going over altogether. The colonel, without hesitation, made all his passengers hang their weights to the near side of the wagon, and, sitting on my lap, with a crack of the whip he started the whole concern, and sent it flying and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SONORA STAGE.</P>
010.sgm:swaying from side to side to the bottom of the hill. Here we pulled up, and the colonel, relieving me from his weight, observed, in extenuation of what might otherwise have appeared a liberty, "that he was obliged to be a little <HI REND="italics">sarcy</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Fleas are very prevalent in the southern mines, and my first introduction to the species was in this wise.  The colonel turned suddenly to me, his hands being occupied with his ribbons, with "I guess there's a flea on my neck;" and I perceived on the instant that there was a large, broad-shouldered insect, refreshing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>With so many teams and wagons on so narrow a trail, there is occasionally much disputing for the right of way.  Men carry arms on the road as a general rule; but very seldom use any worse weapon than their tongues in these disputes.  In a very awkward descent we found the road entirely and unnecessarily blocked up by a wagon, drawn by eight yoke of oxen.  The colonel at a glance recognized a teamster with whom he had previously had many words on the same subject, and he opened fire by ordering him to his own side of the road; to which the teamster sulkily acquiesced after some delay, our driver, as he passed, threatening him with a "lamming" on the next convenient occasion; to which the teamster replied by a promise of blowing the top of the colonel's head off; which so incensed the colonel, that he forgot himself, and rising in his seat, solemnly assured the driver of the Ox team, that at some future period nothing should deter him from "spiking" him; to which the driver replied with such a shout of derision, that, believing as I do in the colonel, I have no doubt that before this the teamster has met his fate, and is a <HI REND="italics">spiked</HI>
010.sgm: man.  The colonel felt very "ugly" for some minutes after this, but soon recovered his equanimity of temper.  And here I shall take leave of him, for we now approach Sonora; the sun was disappearing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:behind the redwood trees that capped the surrounding mountains; we began to pass rapidly through mining villages and mining populations, of which more anon, and after dashing through several bad places, in which, as the colonel remarked, the best driver might get <HI REND="italics">mired</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It was dark when we entered Sonora; and as the habits of the people here are nocturnal, the evening may be said to have commenced as we alighted.  It certainly had commenced, for Greenwich Fair might be spoken of as a sober picture of domestic life, compared to the din and clamor that resounded through the main street of Sonora.  On either side were gambling-houses of large dimensions, but very fragile structure, built of a fashion to invite conflagration, though offering little of value to the devouring element when the invitation was accepted, which it was about every other night or so. In most of these booths and barns the internal decorations were very glittering; chandeliers threw a brilliant light on the heaps of gold that lay piled on each monte table, while the drinking-bars held forth inducements that nothing mortal is Supposed to be able to resist.  On a raised platform is a band of music, or perhaps some Ethiopian serenaders, or, if it is a Mexican saloon, a quartet of guitars; and in one house, and that the largest, is a piano, and a lady in black velvet who sings in Italian and accompanies herself, and who elicits great admiration and applause on account of the scarcity of the fair sex in this region.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Each gambling-house is full; some are crowded; and the streets are full also, for it is Saturday, a night on which the miners flock into Sonora, wit], the avowed intention of purchasing necessaries for the ensuing week, and returning the same night; but, seduced by the city's blandishments, they seldom extricate themselves from its temples of pleasure until very early on the ensuing Monday morning, when they return to their <HI REND="italics">camps</HI>
010.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">long-toms</HI>
010.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n14-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1">Gold-washers.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>The Mexican population preponderates in Sonora and its vicinity, and nearly every thing is stamped with their nationality.  The gambling-tables are surrounded by them; and, dirty fellows as they are, they are very picturesque at a distance with their slouch hats and long serapes.  The American population, between whom and the Mexicans a rooted hatred exists, call the latter "Greasers," which is scarcely a complimentary sobriquet, although the term "Greaser camp;" as applied to a Mexican encampment, is truthfully suggestive of the filth and squalor the passing traveler will observe there.  Sonora has a large French population, and to this Gallic immigration is attributable the city's greatest advantages; for where Frenchmen are, a man can dine, which is very important.  The <HI REND="italics">"Trois Fr&egrave;res Proven&cedil;aux</HI>
010.sgm:," has its namesake here, where good cooking and excellent light wines are at all times to be relied on; but where Frenchmen are, there are also good bakers; and there is, moreover, a great deal of singing, and gayety, and good-humor, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The long bar of a saloon is always actively engaged, and the bar-keeper must be prepared for all demands in all languages.  Here he serves a Mexican group with <HI REND="italics">agua diente</HI>
010.sgm:; now he allays a Frenchman's thirst with <HI REND="italics">absinthe</HI>
010.sgm:, in the pouring out of which he displays much art; again he attends with rapidity to the demands of four Americans, whose <HI REND="italics">orders</HI>
010.sgm:<P>"Hain't you got no hale hor porter?"<ANCHOR ID="n14-2">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-2">But when a couple of Chinamen make a demand for sam-schou, then the bar-keeper is puzzled.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>J. Bellow expounded a great deal more than I have attempted to describe, before we had been many minutes at Sonora.  As soon as we had bathed and freed ourselves from the dust with which we were covered, and which, perhaps from its having been ground off an auriferous soil, resembled a fine rich plate powder, we dined at a French restaurant, and commenced our perambulations: not before J. B. had conducted me to his residence.  This was situated in the main street, and was a small canvas house rather ostentatiously placed between two glittering saloons.  The interior consisted of one large room, filled with stores and provisions, and another very small apartment in which J. B. slept.  The front of the house was entirely occupied by black letters, more than a foot in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I had been directed to a place called Holden's Hotel as a sleeping place.  The lower floor formed the gambling-saloon, in which were the Ethiopian serenaders already alluded to; the upper being converted, as I had understood, into sleeping apartments. On applying at the bar for a bed, I was requested to pay a dollar and enter my name on a slate opposite a vacant number; 80 it was.  I wished to go to bed, and was directed to mount the staircase and find No. 80 for myself.  On reaching the second story, I found myself in a long and dimly-lighted room of the same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:dimensions as that below, and round and about which were ranged about a hundred wooden stretchers, covered with canvas, and furnished each with one dark-blue blanket, and a small bag of hay to represent a pillow.   It is satisfactory to me to remember, that, so far from expressing surprise, I displayed a stoicism that would have brought the blush through the vermilioned cheek of a Pawnee warrior; I wound my way through the settees, most of which were occupied, until I arrived at one on the head of which was a card bearing my number.  A glance assured me that the bag of hay that rightfully belonged to me was there, but that the blanket was not. A momentary inspection further developed the fact, that on all the occupied stretchers were two or more blankets, while the unoccupied beds had been denuded of this covering.  Having been educated as a midshipman, it is needless to say that to be in possession of <HI REND="italics">three</HI>
010.sgm:<P>I awoke about daylight, very chilly, and found that my blankets had disappeared.  The law of reprisal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:had been fairly enforced, and one can not always be <HI REND="italics">wide-awake</HI>
010.sgm:.  It was a comfort to me to reflect, that he who took the blankets took the fleas that belonged to them, and as these creatures feed about daylight, <HI REND="italics">I had the best of it after all</HI>
010.sgm:<P>As I have already observed, the Spaniards inclose their wild horses in a "corral."  Here, closely packed, the best horse kicks himself into the best place, and keeps it.  These wholesale human dormitories are also called corrals, and the principle is much the same as regards the occupant; you must kick or get kicked-and, indeed, for that matter the whole world is conducted on much the same principle.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER  XV.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>The Gold Mine.--The Innocence of Sonora.--Sunday in Sonora.--Selling a Horse.--Carrying Weapons.--Bob.--We leave Vallejo.--We are "Bound To Go."--The Shadow of a Crow.</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
010.sgm:<P>EARLY the next morning I proceeded on horseback with Joe Bellow and an engineer to the mine, which was situated near a mining village called Tuttle-Town.  To reach this spot we had to cross a table mountain, so covered with the d&eacute;bris of former volcanic eruptions, that it was a perfect cinder-heap upon a large scale.  The ground reverberated as we passed over concealed craters, and for two or three miles we were confined to a foot pace, as we picked our way through the rough boulders that lay half buried in the earth, like a field of winter turnips.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The Tuttletonians were not actively employed at the time of our arrival, principally from the fact that the diggings had "given out."</P>
010.sgm:<P>The quartz vein, however, was there, and after a day's inspection, I was satisfied that in external appearance at least it bore out the report that Joe Bellow had given of it.  To the man who wants more money than he has (and few of us are free from that craving), the sight of massive veins of rock, peppered with specks of gold, is a trying spectacle.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>As he sits upon a boulder on the outcrop, and extracts a piece of pure metal with the point of a knife, he is subject to a thrill which I am afraid is indicative of the sordid ideas of his nature--when he descends the shaft, and by the aid of a candle still beholds the specks of gold, he draws a long breath, in mental contemplation of the wondrous wealth before him; then when the wealthy seam is placed at his service, on terms so easy that it appears quite thrown away, in all probability he will do as I did, swallow the bait, hook and all.  The opinion of the engineer was highly satisfactory, as engineers' opinions generally are; we therefore returned to Sonora, where I plunged at once into the subject of mining statistics.  I remember now how ridiculously plain the whole matter appeared; here was the gold-you could see it and feel it--well, all you had to do was to get it out!  Argument would have been wasted upon any thick-headed fellow who looked upon the matter in any other light.  But none such existed--all Sonora was quartz-mine mad-and although no machinery had as yet reached this region, shafts were being sunk, and adits cut, in every hill around the town.  One mine, which extended from the rear of the principal hotel, was owned entirely by Cornish miners; these had sunk two deep shafts, and connected them by a gallery, by which means two or three hundred yards of the vein were laid bare.</P>
010.sgm:<P>This vein was called the "Englishmen's mine," and it had not only the merit of being sufficiently rich to all appearance to justify the erection of machinery, but it was about the only lode that had been scientifically <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Sonora is dependent for existence on the surrounding mining population; it is a town with a resident population of about three thousand souls, but with accommodation on the corral principle for about ten thousand more.  Sonora is advantageously situated in one respect, inasmuch as it is irresponsible for the morals and conduct of its floating population; if Sunday is desecrated in Sonora by five thousand pleasure-seeking miners, Sonora washes its hands of that.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Sonora is one large house of entertainment for bon&acirc;-fide travelers; and although nearly every one makes a point of traveling thither on a Saturday, to have a "burst" on Sunday, and return in penitence on Monday, Sonora washes its hands of that--otherwise I should say that Sonora in 1851 was as loose a community as was that of San Francisco in 1849.</P>
010.sgm:<P>No church bells here usher in the Sabbath; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>The miners prefer buying every thing at auction, acid although I imagine the purchasers suffer in the long run by this principle, the "loafers" gain by it; for (supposing you are a loafer) you have only to mix with the crowd of bidders, and take out your clasp-knife; you can then make all excellent meal from the samples exposed to view, presuming always that your constitution will stand a mixture of salt butter, Chinese sugar, pickles, and bad brandy.  Joe Bellow was an auctioneer, arid certainly he understood his business.  Long before his sale commenced he would place a keg of butter, or a bag of dried apples, outside his store, and the miners would surround these luxuries like flies.  Joe Bellow's object was to get a "crowd;" arid this accomplished, the auction would commence in this style:</P>
010.sgm:<P>Joe Bellow takes his stand on a cask in the midst of his samples, arid startles you suddenly with--"And I'm only bid one dollar for a dozen of mixed pickles; one dollar, one dollar, one doll--try them, gentlemen." In the mean time Joe nods to an imaginary bidder in the distance, and rattles on, "One and a half, one and a half, one and h--"  "Doo," says a Dutchman, with his mouth full of pickled gherkin. "Two dollars I'm offered for a dozen of mixed pickles."  "Dos y medio," says a Spaniard, under the influence of a green bean.  "Ah! Senor Don <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>"Have I any advance on two dollars and a half ?" "Trois piastres," say a French restaurateur. "Three dollars I am bid for a dozen of pickles that cost five dollars in the States, Tenez! Monsieur Leon voici des cornichons comme il faut.  Three dollars, three doll's, three doll's"--"Dree-and-a-half," says the Dutchman, to whom they are finally knocked down, just as an old miner observes that "darn him if his knife ain't turned blue with the darned vitrol juice." No description, however, can do justice to the rapidity with which Joe Bellow knocks down his lots, or to the easy impudence with which he meets all disparaging remarks from his tasters; and such is human nature, that even in the mines, where few simpletons are to be found, there was no butter so rancid but Joe Bellow could dispose of it on a Sunday by means of his volubility and soft-sawder!  I heard a Dutchman inquiring very anxiously one day for some one in Sonora whose name he did not know. "What is he like?" said one; but the Dutchman was apparently not apt at description, and no clew could be gained; at last he spluttered out, "Tyfel! I mean dat man dat cries always 'bickel, bickel, bickel,'" and every body knew at once that Joe Bellow was the individual required, and directed the Dutchman accordingly.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The auction, extending as it does across the street, will be interrupted most probably by a Mexican funeral procession, headed by a brass band, playing dolefully; scarcely has this filed by when the same band <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The horses that are sold this way are not very showy, nor do they fetch much, but it may be remarked that if the high-priced horses that are occasionally sold with us on account of their owners "going abroad, " were first subjected to a four hours' gallop, over a stony road, in presence of the bidders, many of them would be "knocked down" for even less than are these Californian ponies.</P>
010.sgm:<P>For these animals have at least the advantage of possessing four sound legs, and unless my experience much misleads me, three are as many as you can reasonably expect in any animal whose pedigree will admit of a gentleman mounting him.  Civilization has done for horses, what in some instances it has for their masters, improved their exteriors at the expense of a ruined constitution.   I wonder what Choctaw would think, if he could be made to comprehend the fact, that there were horses of twice his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HORSE AUCTION AT SONORA.</P>
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010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>In Sonora, every man carried arms, generally a Colt's revolver, buckled behind, with no attempt at concealment.  In countries where men have no protection from the law, and the vicious preponderate, this is necessary.  And although it is much to be deplored that this necessity did exist, its consequences were less deleterious to society than would have been expected.  For the fear of the law, in the best regulated community, is not so strong as the fear of sudden death; and if quarrels and assassinations were rare, comparatively, in the mountains, it was owing to the fact that every man was able to protect himself.   It is generally inferred, as a matter of course, that where all men carry arms, blood is shed on the first passionate impulse, and life is not safe. This is not so; it is where all carry arms that quarrels are less rare, and bullying less known than elsewhere, although the population may be more vitiated and intemperate than that of other countries.</P>
010.sgm:<P>From the fact of all men being armed, robberies are less frequent in the mines than would be expected, and in most cases where murders have been perpetrated, the victims have been unarmed.</P>
010.sgm:<P>There are many countries where the carrying of defensive weapons is imperative as a preventative against outrage, but to those who from choice or necessity visit such places, this Californian rule may be of some value:</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>"Never draw your pistol unless you intend to use it."</P>
010.sgm:<P>Previous to the last San Francisco fire I have recorded, burglaries were so common, that it became necessary to carry fire-arms after dark, more particularly as the streets were not lighted.  An acquaintance of mine was walking late one night through a street which was apparently deserted, and in which one dim light alone shed a sickly ray from over the door of a closed restaurant.  As he reached this spot, a man started from the obscurity, and requested with the politeness of a Claude Duval to know the time. With equal civility, my friend presented the dial of his watch to the light, and allowing the muzzle of his revolver to rest gracefully upon the turnip, he invited the stranger to inspect for himself.  Slowly the latter advanced, and the sickly ray gleamed likewise on the barrel of his "six-shooter," as with some difficulty he satisfied himself respecting the time.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Both then prepared to depart, and for the first time the light fell on their faces; then these desperate fellows discovered that they were no burglars, but old acquaintances, who had dined in company on that very evening.</P>
010.sgm:<P>But this is not the only part of the world where it is prudent to look on every man as a rogue until you know him to be honest.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Having completed my mining calculations to my entire satisfaction (unfortunately), I returned to Vallejo, and on my arrival there discovered that the order for this young city had been countermanded by the government.  Every body was preparing for departure, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:and as the place owned a justice of the peace, writs were being served in every direction.  My hotel<ANCHOR ID="n15-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm: was placed under execution on account of the two horse-tails before mentioned; the law was arrayed against me, but as in Vallejo the law's authority was represented by one man, and the individual supposed to be amenable was represented by another, the law did not always get the best of it, and as far as my own case was concerned, it consisted in requesting the sheriff to leave the premises, which he did gladly enough, having business of his own to look after. Many of those who come overland to California, bring one or two young blacks from the plantations with them; these, of course, if not previously freed, become so on their arrival, but they are iii all cases much attached to their masters, and are very useful servants, so much go, that they assume great importance, and begin to think that nothing can be done without them. I was amused one day at overhearing one of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1">The reader will observe, if he pleases, that in erecting this hotel I had no view to becoming its landlord: had I taken any Situation in it, it would have been in the capacity of "boots," which berth a "handy young man" can turn to better account in this country than even the head cook.  That a cook's situation, with or without tea and sugar, is lucrative, the following anecdote will attest: In '49 the captain of a merchant brig at San Francisco having engaged a crew, regardless of expense, in lieu of that which had run away, regardless of their contracts and arrears of pay, found himself Still in want of a cook.  Meeting a negro on the beach he offered him the situation, and to the inquiry of the latter respecting salary, the captain said he could give but two pounds a day.  Raving cocked his hat, folded his arms, and adjusted his legs as niggers do, this fellow laughed musically and said, "I'at if de capten wish to hire heseff out for five pounds a day to fill dat occupation, jes walk up to the restaurant and he would set him to work <HI REND="italics">immediately</HI>
010.sgm:<P>I paid a short visit to San Francisco, and returned with such stories as I thought necessary, and with these, Barnes and Thomas started at once for Tuttle-Town.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Among these stores was a bale of canvas, of which I determined my next Californian house should be built, and a barrel of gunpowder, with which I contemplated disturbing the bowels of the bowels.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Rowe had decided upon accompanying me, a circumstance I shall never regret, for he was in every respect an excellent companion to the day I parted with him.  In mountain life, a friend whose tastes are congenial to your own is indeed an acquisition; for each happiness is doubled then, and let misfortune come as it will, its sting is ever allayed by the sympathy of one true heart beside you.</P>
010.sgm:<P>With the "Old Soldier," "Choctaw," "Tiger," and Bevis," we embarked late one evening on board a Stockton steamboat: this latter wad naturally a slow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>It is not customary to undress when seeking repose in these bunks; in fact, decency forbids you doing so; for they are openly exposed on either side of the saloon, and this latter is generally filled up, for the best part of the night, by card-players.</P>
010.sgm:<P>A placard informs you that "gentlemen are requested not to go to bed in their boots;" but as the proprietors do not guarantee that your boots shall not be stolen if you take them off, this request is seldom complied with.   I remember attending a political meeting in a little church at Benicia; in each pew was a poster, which requested that you would neither cut the wood-work, nor spit on the floor, but the authorities had provided no spittoons, so, as a gentleman observed to me while inside the sacred edifice, "What the something was a man to do who chewed?"</P>
010.sgm:<P>At daylight we were at Stockton, and landing our horses, we were soon in the saddle and making the most of the cooler part of the day.  Nothing worthy of mention occurred on our journey, excepting that at the end of forty miles our animals were as fresh as when they started.  We pulled up to dine at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>There was no ferry in those days, and when he arrived at the banks of the river, he determined to swim across; but then, his clothes and the umbrella, how was he to get these across, and how could he go over without them?  He was seized with an idea, and at once acted upon it; extending his umbrella, he placed his clothes inside, and fastened a line to the handle; with one end of this in his mouth, he plunged into the current, and struck out manfully with his boat in tow for the opposite bank.  But the gingham, like most experimental vessels, leaked so much on her first cruise, that when the centre of the stream was reached, nothing could be seen above water but the vessel's mast-head, which was represented by an ivory hand clasping a round ruler. Now the order of things became reversed, for the current was strong, and having taken firm hold of the umbrella, the question was whether to go down the stream with it or let it go.  The latter course was adopted, not on account of the gold dust or the clothes, but from a pure and unshaken attachment to the parachute itself.  After some effort, not unattended with danger, "gingham" was safely brought into port, but on beaching it, the cargo had vanished.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE UMBRELLA.</P>
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010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The road was very dusty and the heat intense, but nothing seemed to tire our beasts.  The last part of our journey consisted of a gradual ascent, and in many places the ground was covered with small round rocks, that would materially have impeded the progress of most horses; but Choctaw allowed no obstacle to arrest his long swinging "lope," and the Old Soldier, with his tongue lolling out of his mouth, followed <illus entity="a010-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OLD SOLDIER AND CHOCTAW.</P>
010.sgm:his prot&eacute;g&eacute; unflinchingly.  I have sketched these two worthies; the Old Soldier, it will be perceived (to show that he has still a kick left in him) is expressing his disgust at the shadow of a crow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>I explain to the patient Reader.--Pioneers.--A Lady's Boot.-- Mainspring.--Mexican Robbers.--Victims of Prejudice.--Works on America.--Two Pigs.--Power of the Human Will</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September,</HI>
010.sgm:<P>IN less than a fortnight we had a couple of canvas houses erected at Tuttle-Town; each of these had a large fire-place and chimney, built of mud and stones, and surmounted by an empty barrel for a chimney-pot, after the popular architecture of the mines.  Rowe and I occupied the small shanty, while in the larger one I had Barnes, Thomas, and a couple of English miners.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Our houses faced the main street of Tuttle-Town; this at the time was indicated by stakes, there being as yet but three buildings in the place.  Higher up the hill and near the main shaft were eight Mexican miners, whom I had hired for the purpose of quarrying the ore.  Having supplied these with about twenty yards of canvas, half a dozen raw bullock hides, an unlimited quantity of beans and a frying-pan, they made themselves very comfortable in their own way. I must not omit to mention that I had a canvas stable for our four horses, not that these required any shelter during the warm dry nights, but simply because I wished to avoid the inconvenience of losing twelve of my party at once, and finding some morning that my four horses and eight Mexicans had departed in company.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:Most of the Mexicans of California are from Sonora,<ANCHOR ID="n16-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1">In Mexico.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>Having now established myself at the mines, it is incumbent on me to explain to the patient reader my exact position there, as otherwise I shall be accused of having attempted to accomplish that for which I was incapacitated-a censure which I do not wish to be applied to me otherwise than as an author, in which quality I must perforce admit its truth.</P>
010.sgm:<P>My object at Tuttle-Town was to test the value of the quartz vein there, and if, with the assistance of such miners as I had engaged, I could satisfy myself that the vein held out sufficient promise of remuneration, it had been agreed between myself and a friend at San Francisco (he whose death I have recorded) that sufficient machinery should be erected to give the ore a fair experimental trial.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Amateur performances are seldom successful; and whether he wishes to fatten short-horn bullocks for an agricultural show, or take the helm of his yacht in a race for the cup, your amateur, in one way or the other, generally "comes out wrong."  "Chacun a son metier," is a motto more generally applicable than we are willing to admit, although there are few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>The quartz mines of California were discovered and opened almost entirely by men who had no previous knowledge of gold mining, therefore in many respects they worked in the dark, and from want of capital their hard-bought experience served only to benefit others.</P>
010.sgm:<P>But the more fortunate of these bands of pioneers are now receiving an ample compensation for the privation they suffered, the toil they underwent, and the ridicule with which they were assailed. Auriferous quartz has been found in numerous cases to yield a rich return, even to the unscientific miner in California; how great then must be the wealth amassed, one would suppose, by those experienced gentlemen, who, with capital at their command, have been deputed by English companies to do the same work on a larger scale. Yet experience has proved that the great mining captains of the age have nothing to laugh at, even in the unsuccessful efforts of such a worm as I.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Unity and goodwill had been so long established among my little party, that we were soon comfortable in every respect, and actively employed.  The vein extended for about half a mile, and the three spots I selected for exploration had each its band of men sinking a "prospecting" shaft.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Rowe and I had ample employment in superintending the operations, and testing the samples of ore that were daily selected from each pit; so with windlasses and buckets, crowbars and drills, gunpowder and fuze matches, pestles, mortars, retorts, and quicksilver, we each of us had our occupation, and were happy as the day was long.  The quartz was sharp and cut like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:glass, so we wore deer-skin "trowserloons," our beards grew, our muscles increased to an alarming extent, our manners were less toned down than was usual, in fact they were <HI REND="italics">swaggering</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Who talks of hope and disappointment in the same breath?  Shall a day of the one efface or tarnish the recollection of a year's happiness brightened by the other?--Not with me while I live.  "See here, now, <illus entity="a010-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE LADY'S BOOT.</P>
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010.sgm:boys," said a Tuttletonian miner, one day, as he held up to an admiring crowd a small and well-constructed lady's boot.  "The chunk ain't found that can buy this boot; 'taint for sale, <HI REND="italics">no-how</HI>
010.sgm:<P>A lady's boot to you, or I, reader, is not much unless we are married and have to pay for a pair occasionally; but so long as we can associate our hopes of earthly happiness for the future with some emblem held out to us even at arm's length, as was the miner's "lady's boot," we may go on our way to work as did his gratified spectators more cheerfully and light of heart.</P>
010.sgm:<P>When a man recalls some sensation with more than ordinary pleasure, it is very usual for him, particularly if he is a writer of travels, to ask you if you have experienced the same. Says one "reader, did you ever witness a sun-set from Chimborazo?"  Says the other "reader, did you ever eat a mangostein?"  Unfortunately the reader is unable to reply until the description of these wonders has been perpetrated.  I have alluded to this custom in excuse for asking the reader if he ever groomed his own horse and derived pleasure from it?  If not, I recommend him after he has managed Chimborazo and the mangostein to try it.  Mainspring's coat was daily rubbed by me, when my own coat hung neglected on a peg; but the fact is, he was a very handsome horse, and in the mines such a rarity is a passport.  With the natural vanity of man, I found that Mainspring attracted more attention than I did, so I allowed my beard to run to seed, and bestowed all my pains in beautifying the dumb animal.</P>
010.sgm:<P>You, madam, who have viewed with pleasure the envious glances that have been cast on the lovely bonnet you wore at Chiswick, will understand the emotions I felt when miners left their pits and claims to pronounce with less spleen upon the beauties of my steed.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The Old Soldier and Choctaw were seldom groomed; the mud in which, of course, they wallowed, was generally removed from their coats with a spade, and on grand occasions they were finished off with a broom. Rowe had a cream-colored mare that was considered by the miners "some pumpkins," an expression which indicates great merit, and is equally applied to a chew of tobacco, or the President of the United States.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We generally rode into Sonora of an evening, for we were always in want of something, and our drills and pick-axes, in particular, soon became blunted by the hard quartz, and had to be tempered again by the Sonora blacksmith.  We would return by moonlight, and had always to pass through a camp of Mexicans of the worst character: these fellows not only east their covetous glances on our horses in open daylight, but on more than one occasion they attempted at night to entrap us into a position that would have left us unable to defend either our lives or our beasts.  They had a quantity of curs in their camp, and these, as we rode through in the moonlight, would rush out, being set upon us, and worry us on all sides with their yelling; they would follow us, howling, for some distance, and our natural impulse was to shoot them with our revolvers, for they were like wolves; but we were soon wise enough to refrain from discharging our fire-arms, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Two armed white men need fear little interruption from Mexicans, provided a proper amount of caution is exercised, and no sign of trepidation is evinced. But their first principle is to attempt to throw you off your guard, therefore the best rule in meeting such men is to insist at once that they do not approach within the distance at which they can throw the deadly lasso, a weapon more formidable in the dark than firearms. Whenever, singly or with Rowe, I met a party of mounted Mexicans in the mines, I drew up on one side of the road until they passed, and after dusk I took the precaution of warning them to a respectful distance; nor was this unnecessary, for the Mexicans encamped round Tuttle-Town committed many murders, and my horse alone was sufficient inducement for them, independent of the sums of money that the necessities of my party often required me to carry of a night.</P>
010.sgm:<P>One morning, on entering the canvas stable that adjoined my hut, I discovered that mainspring was gone; his halter had been cut, and there was no doubt that he had been stolen.  Fortunately a drizzly rain was falling sufficient to moisten the ground, and this had probably set ill about an hour after the thieves had removed the horse at the risk of their lives.  Without some knowledge of Mexican cunning, it would have been useless to have attempted to track a stolen horse of Mainspring's fleetness.  We presumed, at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Rowe and I then started on the search, and after crossing the mountain we halted at a gulch.  With some trouble we discovered at last that the horse had crossed here, for he had one cutting shoe, the heel of which left a slight imprint; from the gulch we traced him to a tree, and here the ground being covered with dead leaves and brushwood, all sign was lost.  Accident favored us, for a few miles further on we again hit his trail at another gulch, but here he appeared to be returning.  A close inspection, however, proved that his shoes had been turned, for the heel of the cutting shoe was on the wrong side; still we lost him again among the trees, and as evening advanced we began to despair.  But soon we arrived at a Mexican encampment, and here, by some stupid oversight on the part of the thieves, Mainspring's rug was left lying exposed on the ground. All had protested their ignorance of the matter on our arrival, but now with the blanket staring them in the face, they soon produced the horse from a distant tent in the bushes, and assured us that a man had left it there that morning, and had gone on his way.</P>
010.sgm:<P>But a Mexican who was sleeping in a tent in mud-splashed clothes was the thief, I knew: he started when I roused him up suddenly and held the blanket before his eyes; but he swaggered out in apparent unconcern, and lighting a cigarito with admirable sang froid, he began to play at cards with one of the others. I was too glad to recover Mainspring to care about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The American residents of our mining village were very sociable and kind, and the good feeling they evinced toward us added materially to our comfort.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Englishmen and Americans are for the most part the victims of prejudice, and when they meet, too often each one expects to find in the other one who is prepared to depreciate and misunderstand him and his country.  They approach each other like two strange dogs who stand head and tail, with bristling hairs, rubbing their ribs together with an angry scowl, for no reason on earth except that they are two dogs.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It may have been my fortune to have effaced some false impressions respecting my countrymen from American minds; but, at all events, I have had an opportunity of divesting myself of much prejudice by a social intercourse with them.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is asserted that the Americans are great boasters, and I grant that retiring modesty is not the chief characteristic of the race; but it is right to remember, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:that for a long period the Americans have been rather depreciated than otherwise, and unmerited depreciation will probably induce a habit of boasting more than any thing else.  When we tell our friend reprovingly not to blow his own trumpet, we presume that such merit as he possesses will be fully acknowledged. Public opinion has not until latterly dealt fairly with the Americans in all respects, and it is perhaps for this reason that they sound their own praises with stentorian lungs; if they have not been justified in doing so.they have at least practically overturned that old saw of our revered ancestors, that "those who <HI REND="italics">talk</HI>
010.sgm: most <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
010.sgm:<P>American character, is necessarily very varied, and nowhere is this more clearly perceived than in California, where all classes, freed in a great measure from conventional restrictions, appear in their true garbs.  I do not presume to write of American character, I can only record my experience of individuals as I have seen them in the shifting scenes of colonial life; but I think that I have had sufficient intercourse with Americans of all grades to warrant my asserting that foreign historians have too often unfairly paraded their faults, while their own writers have in many instances erred equally on the side of their virtues; I believe therefore that there is ample room on our book shelves for one fair unprejudiced work on the people of the United States of America.  Man is ordained to be charitable, and authors are not, that I am aware of, exempted from this command; if, therefore, in writing of a people, a little more pains were taken to discover their virtues, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Our vices are generally uppermost; this was exemplified in the "Old Soldier," for your first acquaintance with that animal might possibly be cemented, as it were, by a kick in the ribs, or a bite on the shoulder; but, recovered from this shock, the longer you knew him the better you liked him; and the old fellow, when once satisfied that you were <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
010.sgm:<P>I do not wish to compare this poor beast with a man, much less a nation, but the simile serves me so far as to illustrate the fallacy Of first impressions as applied either to man or horse; yet, while all acknowledge this for a truism, we find that half the books of travels that analyze so fearlessly the character of the people visited are valueless as commentaries on them, either from hastiness or unfairness of opinion, on the one side, or laboriously-studied partiality on the other.  But seldom does the work of an alien run into this latter fault, and most books on America remind me of a volume of Veterinary Surgery, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>How small a trifle will disturb, at times, the even current of one's life; let me recall the sole drawback to our otherwise complete contentment at Tuttle-Town.</P>
010.sgm:<P>One of our neighbors had two pigs, and these, like all four-footed animals in the mines, had a roving commission, and lived by nocturnal plunder.  This practice we could bear with, as much from our reverence for pork, as from the fact that it was a free country for man or pig.  But these wretches took a fancy to scratching themselves, in the dead of night, against the canvas shanty that Rowe and I inhabited; there were plenty of posts, but they preferred a shanty; now, as the only hard substances they could find were our recumbent bodies, as we pressed against the canvas wall, the pigs scratched themselves against us, and as this occurred for about four hours every night, accompanied by the satisfactory grunts which the temporary alleviation of cutaneous disease elicits from the pig, our rest was continually being broken upon. We kept water boiling, and waking up suddenly we would scald them; we harpooned them with crowbars, damaged the vertebra of their backs with the sharp edges of spades, fired blank cartridges under their noses, and scarified them with a deadly fire of broken bottles; but to no purpose, they would come back and rub us out of bed again, regardless of any injury <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER  XVII.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Yield of Gold.--Its Duration.--Mormon Gulch.--The Distribution of Gold.--Tunneling.--Damming Rivers.--Holden's Garden.--Energy in the Mines.--Quartz Mines.--Quartz Mining Successful.--The Author gets out of his Depth</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
010.sgm:<P>THE diggings in our immediate vicinity were not actively worked, as their was not sufficient water for the purpose; this, however, was shortly to be remedied, for companies composed of miners were at work in every direction, conducting water from the rivers to the dry diggings; and at this moment new plots of auriferous soil are daily being added to the area of "paying ground" in the mines by the artificial introduction of the water which nature has denied to them.  Most of these companies have received handsome returns; the charge to each miner supplied with water being about two shillings a day.</P>
010.sgm:<P>This affords another instance of the successful employment of capital originally procured by gold digging; and if you wanted a few shares in one of these young companies, you could procure them without money, for by taking your coat off and helping to cut the ditch, you could in six months work yourself into a very respectable stockholder.  I suppose each traveler who returns to his home from California, whether he is an Englishman or a Sandwich Islander, is questioned on all sides as to whether the "diggings" are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>For you, reader, who have sent to the circulating library for the "Newcomes," and have had this book forwarded you as a "new work" (the "Newcomes" being out), can scarcely be expected to peruse in your present state of disgust a chapter on gold mines: I therefore dedicate this "paper" to two individuals, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:one of whom shall be the gold mine victim before alluded to, as contemplating the two and two-pence he received for his invested sovereign, and the other is that unknown man, who, in the <HI REND="italics">ennui</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Mormon Gulch was the name of a ravine that was about a hundred yards from my tent, it was reported to have been the wealthiest digging in the mines, and according to rumor, half an hour's work with a clasp knife or tin spoon had invariably enriched any of the fortunate Mormons who first discovered it in 1848.  Since those days, however, the earth, or stones rather, for these preponderate, had been turned over again and again, each time yielding less, until the soil ceased to return sufficient remuneration to the only process of labor that could be at that time applied to it.  But before now water has been conducted there, and by the more wholesale process of sluice-washing, the gulch claims are again up in the market.</P>
010.sgm:<P>By-and-by we shall hear of the sluice-washing companies having deserted the gulch, and perhaps for a short period the red stony gravel will lie idle; but soon steam-engines and some process of securing the gold by amalgamation with quicksilver, will brighten up old Mormon Gulch again, and there is no knowing how remote the day is, when its red banks shall for once and all, finally and for the twentieth time, be reported to have "given out."</P>
010.sgm:<P>The history of Mormon Gulch, and the future I have sketched for it, is applicable to every ravine in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Now, if all the gold territory of this country had been seized upon and worked at the time that Mormon Gulch was first discovered, we might form some estimate of the time when machinery should be brought to bear generally upon the placers; but as yet we can not ascertain the amount of gold-bearing soil that exists; for not only are fresh diggings still brought to light, in the vicinity of the original discoveries, but we have ample proof that plenty lies beyond in the direction of the Sierra Nevada, which now, from the presence of hostile Indians, can not be disturbed, and indeed, for the present, is not wanted.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The number of those who are now actually collecting gold by mining in California, may be computed at about one hundred and forty thousand men.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The obstacles that are alike presented by the extremes of the wet and dry seasons, will not admit, probably, of these miners working for more than two hundred days in the year, and the average daily sum amassed by each man, may be fairly quoted at three and a half dollars, or fifteen shillings. </P>
010.sgm:<P>This will give an annual yield of twenty-one millions sterling from California, and I have no reason to doubt that this sum is obtained, although it does not (for many reasons) appear in the reported exports of specie from the country.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Now, if this sum can be annually realized by the exertions of comparatively so small a body of men, who have even at the latest dates no better plan of securing the gold than by a rude system of washing, what may we expect when machinery is employed, and labor concentrated?</P>
010.sgm:<P>Those portions of the placer fields that would reward manual labor with less than one or two dollars a day, are as yet unmolested, for as yet the ruling rates of wages in the mines is higher, being guided by the average yield.  Therefore it is difficult to place a limit on the amount of auriferous earth that now, rejected by the miner, will, by the proper appliCation of machinery and the reduction of labor, eventually produce a vast return.  There is scarcely a hillside but gives evidence of the existence of gold, but although this soil will not at present repay manual labor, no one can suppose that the metal will be allowed to rest there undisturbed.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The distribution of gold in the soil is most eccentric, and this is attributable probably to three causes:<ANCHOR ID="n17-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm: firstly, that for the most part it was disintegrated from the matrix during the stupendous volcanic action to which all the gold territory of California has been subjected; secondly, that it has been carried to and fro by vast masses of water, the result of heavy rains, or more probably of heavy falls of snow in the mountains, that have suddenly melted and carried all before them; finally, from the land-slips and accumulations of upper soil that must necessarily result where steep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1">Independent of the probability of there having been more than one formation.--See Appendix.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>I tread very carefully whenever I find myself on the geologist's ground, bearing in mind my scientific friend at Murderer's Bar, who reached the bottom so much quicker than he desired; therefore I can only suggest; and the two readers to whom this discourse is dedicated, while they deplore the ignorance which prevents me leading them through a labyrinth of formations and stratas, must place something to my credit on the score of modesty.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Wherever gold is discovered in California, particles of quartz are found adhering to it more or less; this quartz, even when found at great depths, is generally rounded by the action of water, for quartz, when detached by violent action, is naturally angular, and inclined to splinter, and from its hardness it must require ages to give it the form of a pebble, by the slow process of grinding it receives in a comparatively dry mountain gorge.  This, taken in conjunction with the facts that the gold is found now on the surface, and now low down resting on the bed rock, here forced into clefts of granite, and again in clusters of small pear-shaped nuggets, as if the metal had been ejected by intense heat, and had dripped from the volcanic boulders that lie scattered around; tends to bear out the supposition that disintegrated gold has been east into places that time and accident alone can reveal, and that the original opinion that the gold was on the surface only no longer holds good.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Tunneling has already been applied to rich hills in the mines with great success, and this fact alone is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Where ingenuity aided by science is at fault, a very slight clew will often accidentally lead to the solution of a problem; thus much capital has already been devoted to the damming of those streams in California, of which the banks were found to be wealthy; but in few instances hitherto have the beds been found to be productive; yet they must be so at some point, unless we are to imagine, what is improbable, that gold has been carried by rain water to the verge of a swift stream, and then has been arrested there without any apparent obstacle.</P>
010.sgm:<P>There is something capricious about this metal in its released state; a search for it, even where evidence of its existence has been shown, is seldom attended with success, yet every day almost chance brings to light some fresh gold-field.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I remember a gentleman who, taking an early Sunday walk among the hills that surround the town of Sonora, struck his foot against a stone.  He should have found a sermon in it, for he was not likely to find one any where else, but in the agony of a mutilated great toe, he turned and apostrophized the rock in unbecoming language; but he suddenly checked his impetuous feelings, and we will hope from a good motive; whether or no, the offending quartz was so richly coated with the dross that we make a point of despising when we can't get enough of it, that he took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>It is difficult to understand why gold remained so long undiscovered in California, considering that so much of it was on the surface, even in those parts of the country already inhabited by whites.  The Indians, who will search assiduously for the flints they require for arrow-heads, do not seem to have been aware of the existence of gold on the plains, although the savages of the as yet unexplored mountain districts, are found with gold in their possession.  The early Spanish priests evidently sought for it without success, judging from the old shafts that have been sunk on part of the banks of the Stanislaus River; and yet these explorations were ineffectually made in the centre of a rich district, and by a class of gentlemen who were never in the habit of overlooking a good thing.  Some of the best diggings have been discovered by market-gardeners, who have chosen some apparently valueless tract for the purpose of cabbage growing, and it is a fact that one man with more energy than agricultural experience, who was abusing the earth for producing cabbages that were all stalk, found on rooting up one very lengthy specimen, that a piece of gold adhered to the roots.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Holden's garden, near Sonora, is a case in point; this was found to be so rich, that the gamblers of the town sallied out to take possession of it, and a fight occurred, in which one or two lives were lost before the "claims" could be adjusted.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>For four years Holden's acre of cabbage-ground has been worked with great profit, pieces of gold of many pounds weight each have been taken from it, and to this day it is a rich digging, as times go.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is possible that both my readers have heard of a certain Irish pig that could only be induced to go in one direction by being at the onset driven in another; it is somewhat this way with the search for gold. Start on a voyage of discovery for copper or coal, and you will probably, if in a gold region, tumble flown and break your nose over a nugget as large as a paving-stone; but if you give chase to the seductive metal itself, the toil of a lifetime will very likely not counterbalance the first week's privation.</P>
010.sgm:<P>In respect to gold-fields, even if our argument leads to no definite conclusion, it is something gained if we can determine that no sign of diminution of yield is as yet apparent-as regards the future, the wisest can only record an opinion.  I believe for my part that the gold-fields of California will certainly yield in an equivalent proportion to their present produce for many years, even if the diggers are left to their own resources; what may be done with the soil eventually, when capital shall increase in the mines and <HI REND="italics">from the mines</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The miners of California are a highly intelligent and determined race, possessed of a degree of <HI REND="italics">mechanical genius</HI>
010.sgm: that surprises me; they have before them a large area of soil, which they, equally with myself, believe still to be most wealthy.  They may by-and-by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Now, like enterprising farmers, they sow again perhaps one half of the year's harvest, until each fertile spot shall be in cultivation, multiplying and fruitful; and so long as we see that the gold from the soil is turned against the soil in the all-powerful form of capital, aided by science; and so long as we know that what is separated to-day by the "long-tom" may tomorrow be devoted to the erection of steam-engines and the sinking of vast tunnels, we know that a great system of improvement is being carried out independent of all <HI REND="italics">external aid:</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The reader will better understand this when I state that the miners of California have many of them had six years' experience, are naturally men of ability, and are now in positions of independence, though still miners.  The popular opinion respecting gold-miners, is that of a body of rough, vagabond, long-haired men, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The quartz mines of California must now be reviewed, for, in connection with the probable future yield of gold, they occupy a prominent position.</P>
010.sgm:<P>In that column of the "Times" which is expressly devoted to a review of the Share Markets, some half-dozen Californian quartz-mine operations will be found daily recorded; these, for the most part, are in a very sickly state. Why they are so is no business of mine; but the fact is no criterion of the value of the quartz lodes of California.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The quartz formation stretches in one great vein across the country for nearly three hundred miles in a northwesterly direction, and this main lode is throughout more or less impregnated with gold, excepting where it has been disturbed by volcanic eruption. From the main vein tributaries branch out on either side, throughout its length, and many of these possess undoubtedly sufficient wealth to repay labor, if this is properly applied.  I say this cautiously, for I know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>But a great number of veins, worked unostentatiously by American companies, are giving very satisfactory results; a <HI REND="italics">larger</HI>
010.sgm: number are paying their expenses only, but with good prospects of improvement.  But I must direct attention to this fact; the amount of profit derived from quartz-mine speculations is not of so much importance to my argument as the number of quartz mines being worked.  If many of the lodes now open in California are bringing at present a smaller percentage to their owners than was anticipated, fault perhaps of imperfect machinery and false economy, they are none the less of importance as affecting the question of the yield of gold.  For although the hundred ounces per day that pass through the stamping-mill may scarcely leave a profit on the expenses, the hundred ounces <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>But as it may be observed that operations that combine so much risk of failure will shortly be abandoned, particularly in a country where money commands so high a rate of interest, I must mention these facts:</P>
010.sgm:<P>In the first place, many American mining companies are already paying handsome dividends, and those which are least successful have, in most instances, their machinery to blame more than the vein on which it is erected; but every thing is in favor even of those who are thus situated, for improvements in machinery start up on every side, labor and the expense of living is diminishing rapidly, while fresh developments bring new aspirants continually into the field.  For there is something about quartz mining that is seductive; fail as you will, as long as some are successful around you there is a "never-say-die" feeling which ever prompts to fresh exertion ill the same field.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I shall not attempt to draw conclusions from an estimate of the number of veins that are now being profitably worked, or the amount of gold that may be derived from them in California, as that country is still in a state of transition, and not yet ripe for figured calculations.  I can only fall back again upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Having now shown that the material, the capital, and the energy exist to warrant a belief amounting almost to a certainty, that an amount of gold will yet be produced from California that will throw into the shade the millions that have already been acquired, I leave it to others to argue how far the same facts apply to Australia, Oregon, and other gold-fields as yet less perfectly developed.  I scarcely dare guess at the sum that the next ten years will see produced from California, but call attention to this fact, that seven years have elapsed since the discovery of gold--and as yet no apparent sign of exhaustion is manifest, although all predicted, from the first, that the auriferous soil was but superficial.  Had this prophecy been borne out to any degree by experience we might have made a calculation; as matters stand, all tends to the belief that the best is yet to come.  Nor should it be overlooked that the price of labor in California is still slightly <HI REND="italics">higher</HI>
010.sgm:<P>When I have stated that twenty millions sterling are annually produced from California, and that as yet no probability is apparent of a less yield for some years, I have said as much as comes within the province of my narrative.</P>
010.sgm:<P>How far gold may be eventually permanently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>There is but one question more: is gold already depreciated in value? As measured by labor and property, undoubtedly it is; for it matters not whether in speaking of a gold country, we say that gold is cheap, or labor is dear: as affecting the question the terms are equivalent.  Like a stone thrown in the water, the effects of a gold country spread from it in widening circles; the increased value of labor there is diffused to places more remote, and consequently the depreciation of gold is diffused also.  If the farmer here, affected by the extending influence of the gold-field, already pays more for his labor, he may individually counterbalance this loss by receiving a higher price for his wheat; still his gold (supposing these effects to be perceived) represents less labor on the one hand, and less property on the other.  But it will be argued that such a depreciation is caused by the indirect means of emigration, and that this is temporary.  Granted: but if it is a depreciation, may it not last, in a temporary way, as fresh gold-fields are discovered, until it is supplanted by the permanent depreciation which will arise when the vast influx of precious metal shall first make itself felt throughout the world?</P>
010.sgm:<P>Already out of my depth, I leave the foregoing remarks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Transport Machinery to the Mine.--The Carpenter Judge, and Constable Rowe.--Cut-throat Jack.--Greasers.--French Miners--John Chinaman.--Chinese Ferocity.--The Feast of Lanterns, --Chinese Despotism.--False Sympathy</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November</HI>
010.sgm:<P>IN the course of three months we had collected two or three hundred tons of ore, and as the tests we daily made still bore out our preconceived opinions of the value of the mine, I proceeded to San Francisco for the purpose of procuring the steam power and machinery requisite for a trial of the metal we had quarried.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The life of the quartz miner at this date was tortured by doubts; he was ever in doubt as to the value of his rock; he was ever in doubt as to the depth of his vein; and he was ever in doubt as to the machinery best adapted for securing gold; nor is his position, taken generally, much happier in these respects at the present time; and I will be bound, sir, that the directors who led to your victimization,<ANCHOR ID="n18-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-1">Obsolete term revived.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>I was profoundly meditative on the subject of machinery as I jogged along on the Old Soldier to Stockton.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>One machine would catch every metal the quartz contained except the gold; another would allow every thing to give it the go by, except the refuse tailings that were not wanted; none secured the gold but those which required <HI REND="italics">more manual labor</HI>
010.sgm:<P>When, therefore, I arrived at San Francisco I determined on trying a newly-invented machine which ],ad not yet been proved in the mines, but which looked very promising for my experimental work; with this, and an eight-horse power steam engine, I returned to Tuttle-Town.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It was hard work to get the boiler of the engine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Although I had given the boiler two or three days' start, I found it on arriving at Table Mountain, with the worst part of the journey still before it; however, we had sixteen yoke of oxen, and after a couple of days of great trouble, the machinery was a length safely planted in Tuttle-Town.  Its arrival created great sensation, and the town increased in size and importance on the strength of it.  A French baker and a butcher established themselves in our main street; and at the first general election a justice of the peace and constable were legally elected; the former was a worthy carpenter of good education; the latter post was filled by Rowe.  Whenever we saw Rowe buckling on his pistols in a decisive manner preparatory to a start, we knew that he was proceeding to collect a debt due to some Tuttletonian, and this active constable invariably brought back either the money or the man.  And although our own small population was very peaceful, our justice of the peace had ample employment from the surrounding miners, and dispensed a great amount of justice in a very firm but off-hand manner; and so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:much respect was felt for the sagacity and impartiality of our carpenter, that his decisions in those disputes that came before his notice were invariably received with satisfaction on all sides.  The following incident will illustrate the summary process by which one judge and one constable could force obedience to the law among an armed population in the mountains. One evening as our "judge" was putting the finishing touch to a shanty he had been engaged in repairing, a messenger informed him that a murder had just been committed at an adjacent digging; the judge thereupon threw down his hammer, and, after taking the depositions, issued a warrant for the arrest of the murderer, who was a well-known desperado. Constable Rowe was to serve this warrant and capture the delinquent; consequently, the whole population of Tuttle-Town (about fifteen) armed themselves to protect constable Rowe, and accompanied him to the diggings in question.  Arrived there, the accused was found to have intrenched himself in his house, with desperate intentions of firing his revolver at the law in whatever form it might summon him.  I was not sorry to find on our arrival that he abandoned this design, and surrendered himself at discretion, so we marched him off to Tuttle-Town.  The judge heard all that was to be said, and that was sufficient for the committal of the prisoner to the jail at Sonora to await a trial; so we mounted our horses, took him at once into the town, and had him locked up.  Whatever became of him afterward I don't know, but he never returned to our vicinity, and this was the way that the law was put in force in every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CARPENTER JUDGE.</P>
010.sgm:<P>A Sonorian was found one day in possession of a mule not his own.  While the culprit quakes in the grip of our constable, our judge exhorts the villain to be more honest in his dealings.  I have this scene before me so vividly that I'll place it on the wood at once before I write another line.</P>
010.sgm:<P>So! now if there is less benevolence beaming from the eyes of our carpenter than I would have you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>We rid ourselves about this time of a bad character.  There was a fierce brute of a man who often visited our camp, who was known to have committed a cold-blooded murder, although the law had acquitted him.  He was called "Cut-throat Jack," nor did he object to the appellation; he was more feared in the mines than I should have supposed any man to have been, but he was always in a reckless, half-drunken state, and those who preferred to avoid a deadly quarrel would leave any house he entered.  He was invariably armed, and always boastful.</P>
010.sgm:<P>One night as Thomas was watching a stack-fire near the tents, in which a mass of quartz was being purposely brought to a white heat for experimental purposes, Cut-throat Jack swaggered up to him, and informed him that he intended to Pass the night in our shanty (Rowe and I being in Sonora).  To this Thomas objected, upon which Cut-throat made such a warlike demonstration that Thomas very properly knocked him down.  "Jack" unfortunately fell on the red-hot quartz, and the sensation was so new to him that, as soon as he could withdraw himself, he drew neither pistol nor knife, but was instantly lost to sight in the surrounding gloom, and never swaggered into our camp again from that night forth.</P>
010.sgm:<P>In our immediate neighborhood we had three classes of miners-Mexicans, French, and Chinese; and their peculiarities of race were so marked that I shall record them.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The "Greasers," which term includes all Spanish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE FRENCH MINER.</P>
010.sgm:Americans, will pass the night and early morning in working at their claims, and then devote the day to gambling and sleeping, and the evening to a Fandango or a horse-stealing excursion; a Mexican in the mines has no idea of saving money, but, like the water-carrier <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The French, among whom are many Parisians, will work in a quiet and tolerably steady manner, if nothing unusual occurs to disturb them; but if by chance a strange Frenchman should arrive in their camp, or an old copy of the "Moniteur" should reach them, the picks and spades are relinquished for the day, and all devote themselves to discussion. Often I have passed some solitary Frenchman at a gulch, who, while elevating a tin pannikin of <HI REND="italics">vin ordinaire</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The Chinese are a, strong contrast to the thriftless Mexicans and joyous Gauls.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The Celestial digger, with a grave, elongated face, Is up with the dawn and at work, forgetting to perform his ablutions in his hurry.  No laugh proceeds from his lantern jaws, but his thoughts are steadily bent on the pursuit before him; if ever he chuckles, it must be inwardly, to think how fast he is putting by the nice gold, and how cheaply he is living every day upon six pennyworth of rice and salt worms, while those around him are gambling away their substance. But the Chinaman is none the less a gambler; the only difference is that he plays for a small stake, and is, in fact, a good economist, for as he watches the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:wavering fortunes of his farthing, he enjoys pleasurable excitement if he wins, and is not materially damaged if he loses.  Hundreds of these gambling-houses are to be found in the Chinese "quartier" of San Francisco, and there is one or more at every Chinese digging; but with the exception of an occasional silver dollar, I never saw any thing change hands in them but the copper <HI REND="italics">pice</HI>
010.sgm:<P>These people must feel very happy while daily fingering the Californian soil, where they acquire more gold in a week than at home they would see in a year. John Chinaman knows the value of a dollar so well, that he will do any thing rather than be without it: to gain so much, then, at such little trouble, must indeed be a treat.</P>
010.sgm:<P>When a couple of Chinese dispute over the right to a claim, the noise and gesticulations are frightful; arms (corporeal) are elevated on all sides; fingers are extended in indication of numbers, days, or dates, while each disputant being supported by his friends, all talk at once so rapidly, that the wonder is how they can sustain the altercation, and it is only when breath is exhausted on all sides, that the argument is at last made comprehensible.  Chinamen are a long time coming to blows, and I have seen them at Amoy and other towns, stand almost nose to nose, with arms extended, as if preparatory to a deadly struggle that was to end only with life; but, farther than making a dreadful uproar, no harm came of these rencontres.</P>
010.sgm:<P>A real fight, accompanied by loss of life, occurred ill a Chinese digging in the north, but this was attributable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN CHINAMAN.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Many of the Chinese at the mines have abolished tails, and when their hair has grown in its natural manner, it is astonishing how villainous an appearance they present.  Their hair grows low down on the forehead, and is invariably straight.</P>
010.sgm:<P>An ordinary Chinaman in his loose dress, with his head shaved and hair drawn back, is rather an intellectual looking being, at the first glance, but take the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>A Chinaman is supposed to regard his tail in a religious light, but those who have dispensed voluntarily with them in California, do not seem by any means to have placed themselves without the pale of society.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Some of them adopt the European costume, and <illus entity="a010-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE FEAST OF LANTERNS.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>All the Chinamen of San Francisco are fond of riding out on these feast days, and in whatever costume they may be, they invariably pursue one mode of horsemanship, that is, to ride at full gallop, shouting or screaming, and then to tumble off into the sand or mud, the last act being involuntary.  There is no doubt that these people are excellent colonists as regards their own interests, for they have learnt the first art of colonization, a systematic obedience to a chief, and wherever they go, they quietly submit to the code of discipline established among themselves, and submit even when this authority is abused, by the imposition of taxes and extortions, by their own head men.   Part of Sacramento Street is entirely occupied by Chinese retail merchants, and it is similar in appearance to the Old Bazaar at Hong-Kong.  Immediately a ship arrives in port with Chinese emigrants, these are taken in charge by the head men, and are supplied with stores and packed off to the mines, with great precision and regularity, there to pay a tax to these self-constituted chiefs as long as they are in the mines.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I have already alluded to the existence of a combination of three or four of the most powerful of the Chinese merchants, which being discovered, was interfered with ineffectually by the police.  Now I have no doubt that this clique of wealthy Chinese not only supply the Chinese emigrants, as aforesaid, looking to their labor in the mines for a profit, but that they also invest money in chartering ships to bring the poorer classes of their nation to California, thus exercising a monopoly in the gold-fields.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Much has been said and argued relative to checking by law the Chinese emigration to California, and believing, as I do, from such facts as I could gather, that this system of private taxation is on the increase, I wonder at the forbearance that has hitherto been shown by the authorities.  "Live, and let live," is a capital creed, properly carried out, but when the mines of California are overrun with bands of poor fishermen, whose profits serve to enrich a clique, and these latter remove the money from the country as fast as they collect it, the principle is an unfair one, injurious to the country, and antagonistic to the principles which have made it a free state as regards black slavery.</P>
010.sgm:<P>An instance of the power these head men attempt to exercise came under my notice, for while staying with an English friend in the suburbs of San Francisco, there arrived one day a carriage, from which a gorgeously dressed "John" emerged.  He stated in tolerable English that he was a "lawyer," and that he had come for a Chinese woman who, for many years, had been in my friend's service, and who, he said, had complained of being confined against her will.   The woman had saved a large sum in wages, and could speak no language but her own, but she resolutely declined to go when an interpreter was procured.  The Celestial lawyer was consequently well kicked for his pains, and departed, but we had no doubt that all that was wanted of the old woman was the money she had saved, and it was fortunate for her that her master was a Hong-Kong merchant, and knew something of the wiles of John Chinaman.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Much has been said, also, at home here, relative to the conversion of the Chinese, and no one would more gladly see this brought about than myself, provided it is done with <HI REND="italics">Chinese money</HI>
010.sgm:<P>The Chinaman is highly intelligent, inventive, laborious, and patient, be he where he will, but he is ever avaricious; it may or may not be that those are right who, knowing something of his character, hold that he would worship any god if thereby he can better worship mammon;<ANCHOR ID="n18-2">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-2">A converted Buddhist will address his prayers to our God if he thinks he can obtain any temporal benefit by 50 doing; but if not, he would be just as likely to pray to Buddha or to the devil.--Baker's "Rifle and Hound in Ceylon," page 85.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>Never doubting that it is our first duty as a Christian nation to disseminate those truths that come from an inspired source, why should we, under the influence of a false sympathy, strive to do for the Chinese what so many of our own people yet require. The Chinese have an advantage over many of our lower classes; they are intelligent and reflective, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:have Confucian maxims daily brought even in the highways before their notice, that enjoin most of the social duties that render man's life more in accordance with the Divine wish.  <HI REND="italics">Morally</HI>
010.sgm: at least, the Chinaman is cared for; and although a heathen, ignorant in this respect he can not be said to be.  Let him therefore, for the present, study from gilded signposts the Confucian maxims that ordain him to be charitable, honest, and reverent to his parents; and let us first instill these commands given from a holier source to those around us who have never heard them, who could not read them if they were written up, and who are too ignorant, too poverty-stricken, and too much at war with the life that has entailed nothing but misery upon them, to accept them even as truths, until they first see charity in a more substantial form.  This done,<ANCHOR ID="n18-3">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-3">If the reader will refer to the "Times" of the 29th of September, 1854, he will perceive that a liberal collection was made at St. James's, Piccadilly, for the Borneo Mission.  In the same journal, three days earlier, the police magistrates express their regret that want of funds compels them to deny assistance to Surviving sufferers from the cholera!  All have, of course, a right to do as they like with their money; but after the hat had passed round at St. James's, I should have liked to have seen its liberal contents transferred at once to Bermondsey instead of to Kuchin.  And for this reason, that I know, from personal experience, that my old friends the I?yaks are as fat and sleek a people as any in the world, well fed, well housed, and free from disease, while the stomachs of those at Spitalfields, charitable sir, are aching with the hunger that drives man to <HI REND="italics">crime</HI>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>The Firemen Of San Francisco.--"We strive to Save."--A Barber's Saloon.--Oysters.--Places of Amusement.--A pickled Head.--Shooting on Sight.  <HI REND="italics">Christmas</HI>
010.sgm:<P>THE machinery was at length in its place, and we got the steam up for a trial; our engineer was one of the same school as he of the Stockton boat, and considered that engines were "bound to go," whether on sea or land; and when I remarked to him that ninety pounds of steam was about double the pressure the boiler ought to bear, he asked very naturally "of what use was an eight-horse power engine if you couldn't make her work up to a <HI REND="italics">twelve</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Having started the machinery, we awaited in a great state of excitement the result; this came soon enough, for in a few minutes the crusher broke down irremediably, and like some unfortunate two-year-old horse, ran its first and last race at the same time.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I returned, therefore, to San Francisco, meditatingly as before, and on my arrival there, I gave my mind to the preparation of machinery that should grind and scrunch with a vigor that nothing could resist, and which should give ample employment to the four extra horses which my engineer managed to extract from the steam-engine.  The city presented a much improved appearance, the small sand-hills had now nearly all disappeared, and having been thrown <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I found the people of San Francisco still very nervous about fire; and though the dreadful experience of the past had caused extraordinary precautions to be taken for preventing the recurrence of another general conflagration, still night after night as the warning bell hurriedly announced some fire in the suburbs, the whole population would turn out, and follow the engines "en masse" to the scene of conflagration.  Not a night passed but one or more alarms Were pealed forth by that dreadful bell, of which the tone was so familiar, and so associated with misfortune, and a shanty or two would generally be consumed in the wooden portion of the city.  Some times an hotel or hospital would blaze and furnish a famous night's work for the firemen, but these were so active and vigilant, that the flames were always confined to a small space, arid it was evident that the days of general conflagrations were over. The highest praise that I can accord to the San Francisco firemen, is to record the simple truth of then', and say that they are zealous and intrepid, and that there services are gratuitous.  The fire department of San Francisco <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The companies are distinguished by such names as the "Monumental," the "Empire," the "Washing ton," and to see them in their smart dresses, as they turn Out in procession on a gala day, one would not suppose that there was so much real work concealed beneath so much show. </P>
010.sgm:<P>There are also two or three "hook and ladder" companies, who do ample service in blowing up and tearing down buildings when necessary.  Many of these young firemen occupy the best positions in San Francisco; and it strikes a stranger as somewhat noveL if when the fire-bell is sounded in the day time, he sees the junior partner in the house of Mivins and Co. rush out of his office with a helmet on his head, and proceed at full speed to his engine-house.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Sometimes some poor fellow loses his life in his exertions to perform his self-imposed duty, and then his brother firemen, in unassumed grief, pay him the last tribute of respect by following his body to the cemetery.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I have introduced such a scene in the sketch of San Francisco, and would draw attention simply to the deep significance of the motto on the banner that is lying low, emblematical of him they are burying--"We strive to save."</P>
010.sgm:<P>There is no boast, no ostentation in these words, no vainglorious confidence in what shall be done, no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>You and I, reader, can sleep comfortably in our beds, and have no cause each night to be drenched by water and scorched by heat, no bell summons us to duty, nor need we risk life or limb when the glare ascends from a blazing manufactory, but turning comfortably over, we can again court sleep with the intention of reading of the fire over our breakfast table.</P>
010.sgm:<P>But you will agree with me, perhaps, that be we where we will, be our powers what they may, if we look around us we shall find no better standard to rally round and be faithful to than that which bears the fireman's motto, "We strive to <HI REND="italics">save</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Gorgeous decoration is characteristic of San Francisco; the people pay high prices for the necessaries of life, so velvet and gilt work is thrown into the bargain. In the "shaving-saloons" this system of internal decoration is carried out in great force, and the accommodation these establishments afford is indispensable to a Californian public.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Let me suppose myself to have arrived at San Francisco from the mines early one morning.  Having traveled down on the Old Soldier, I have no carpet bag of course, and I enter a shaving-saloon.  At a counter I purchase any quantity of linen I may require <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A FIREMAN'S FUNERAL.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Seating myself on an easy chair of velvet, and placing my legs on an easy stool, also of velvet, I become drowsy under the influence of the fingers and thumbs of the operator, as they are passed over my skull, as if with a view to making a phrenological chart, and which produce a feeling at last as if hundreds of fingers and thumbs were at work, and the whole force of the establishment were scratching my head.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I am conducted to a marble washstand, and a tap of cold water is turned on me.  I thought I had washed my head in the bath, but it appears not, judging by the color of the water.  My head is dried by hard labor, then it is wetted again by a shower of earn de Cologne and water, thrown at me when least expected.  "Will I be shaved, sir?" Of course I will! "Take a seat."  I sink into the velvet chair, and contemplate my dirty boots, that for days have not known blacking, but have known mud, as they contrast with the crimson pile velvet on which they rest. The back of the chair is raised by means of a screw, until my head is in the proper position for operation. First I have hot water on my chin, and a finger and thumb (generally the property of a colored gentleman) feels for my beard in a dreamy way with a view to softening the stubble.  Then comes the lather, and shave the first, and I am about to get up, when I am <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The operator says not a word to me--San Francisco barbers are not loquacious--but his eyes wander to the open door, and suddenly he leaves me with a rush, and apostrophizing some one passing in the street, he says, "Say, how about that sugar?"  The reply is inaudible, but I observe that the barber produces a sample of cigars from his pocket, and says, "See here! fifty dollars a thousand for these won't hurt you;" and so, having failed to make a "trade" he comes back, and, as he "finishes" me, he observes, in a general way, that "Damn him if that (the gentleman in the street) wasn't the meanest man in all creation!" I am then released, and this was a San Francisco shaving-saloon in 1852.  From the barber's I proceeded to a boot-blacking saloon kept by Frenchmen.  I seat myself on a comfortable fauteuil, two Gauls are at my feet, each Gaul has two brushes, and such a friction is commenced that my feet are being shampooed as much as my head was.  The morning paper has been handed to me, and I have scarcely settled to the leading article when "V'la M'sieur," announces that all is over. What a change! My boots rival that famous effigy of Day and Martin, whose polish is ever exciting the ire of a contemplative cat; I pay the money with pleasure, one shilling, not before I am brushed though.  Shall I exchange my battered wide-awake for a beaver hat? Certainly; and now reader I don't think you would believe, if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>But the San Francisco bills of fare present at all seasons great variety, and no one has a right to complain who has but to choose from bear, elk., deer, antelope, turtle, hares, partridges, quails, wild geese, brant, numerous kinds of ducks, snipe, plover, curlew, cranes, salmon, trout, and other fish, and <HI REND="italics">oysters</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It is not until you have been a long time without an oyster that you find how indispensable to your complete happiness this bivalve is; so soon as the want of it was generally expressed by the inhabitants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>312</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:of San Francisco, some enterprising individual gave his attention to the subject, and, after an adventurous voyage of discovery along the coast, he found a bed, and returned with a cargo of natives in triumph. This cargo, however, was not to be vinegared and peppered that year, but was transferred to a bed prepared for its reception in the bay; here the oysters were left to fatten on bran and other luxuries, and by next year the young colony had increased sufficiently to supply a small quantity to the restaurateurs.  They were very small innocent oysters at first, and tasted like a teaspoonful of salt water; they also cost sixpence a piece, which was about their weight in silver; but they were oysters; a victory had been gained; an imperious want had been supplied: we thought of this as we swallowed them, and were grateful for them even at the price.  Since then the submarine colony has thrived so well that oysters in San Francisco are not only large, but comparatively cheap, so that many of the inhabitants gratuitously supply the city with pavement by throwing the shells out into the street, as oyster-venders do in every city in the world where the law permits.  And, by the way, it is not inappropriate that the law should wink at hecatombs of obstructive oyster shells, if, as they say, that part of the fish alone falls to the share of the public; and indeed it strikes me that any man who has been unfortunate enough to inherit a chancery suit in this country, should be allowed to pile his oyster shells before his door, for in this way he would denote the number of shells that, figuratively speaking, had been returned to him, and might thus exemplify the <HI REND="italics">certainty</HI>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Places of amusement were springing up rapidly in San Francisco, and these were of a better character than would have been supposed.  It was pleasant to observe that gambling-houses, and those low haunts which in every country minister to degrading appetites, were rapidly being swept away in this young country, and giving place to rational recreations. Theatres, reading-rooms, and gymnasiums; these are good sources of amusement, be you where you will; read for the improvement of your mind, exercise the clubs and dumb-bells for the benefit of your body, laugh or cry over a good play, and in a colony you are safe for a cheerful, and perhaps grateful man.</P>
010.sgm:<P>My old schoolmaster, I remember, was wont to characterize the theatre as the house of the devil; if so, this person is a very temporary lodger, for often when the devil is in a man, the merriment a farce excites, or the moral a drama displays, will drive it out of him; and perhaps before to-day a comedy has done more for a man, in the way of correction, than the best sermon that ever was preached to his inattentive ears.  For, when you can interest a man, his feelings and judgment are open to your appeal, and I dare say a great many of my readers have, like myself, felt deeply moved at a drama, the moral of which would have been unheeded in a sermon, as inapplicable to our own eases or positions in life; just as, when children, we can only stomach a powder when it is presented to us in the fascinating shape of jam.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Some representations of poses plastiques that were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Since that date, a famous Mexican robber, Joaquin Carrillo by name, has, with much trouble and loss of life, been caught and decapitated.  When I left San Francisco his head was to be seen by the curious, preserved in spirits of wine; and however revolting such a spectacle may be, it is a punishment that one would think would deter the reflective from crime.  Fancy one's features distorted by the convulsive throes of a violent death, staring whitened and ghastly from a glass bottle, turned from with horror by the gaping crowd, and then deposited for all ages, growing more hideous with each year on the shelves of a surgical museum!</P>
010.sgm:<P>To take one's head, as in olden times, and place it on a pole until it became a whitened skull, is a benevolent act as compared with the glass bottle and aqua <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:fortis that band distorted features down to posterity. For my own part, I can contemplate with calmness my bones bleaching, as they may do, perhaps, in a desert, but the mere thought that a diseased liver or brain of mine should ever be labeled and ticketed in the museum of the College of Surgeons, excites a disgust that makes me think burning or drowning preferable to a quiet death-bed and a <HI REND="italics">post mortem</HI>
010.sgm:<P>But still every scruple must fall before the necessities of science; and I remember exhuming a Malay rajah who had been buried about a week without the slightest compulsion, simply because science required the skeleton of a Malay rajah.  I felt it was the duty of every man to aid science, and the only remorse I felt was when I found no jewels in the coffin--not even a ring: it was a shabby burial the rajah had!</P>
010.sgm:<P>The practice of carrying fire-arms in San Francisco was still popular among a large proportion of the citizens; but the arguments by which I have sought to justify this habit in a mountain population are not applicable to the inhabitants of the city, for life and property were safe, and a proper police force had been instituted.  Cases of shooting therefore were still very common, and dueling in particular became quite the rage.  Taking up the newspaper one day, I observed a conspicuous advertisement, in which one gentleman gave notice to the public that another gentleman "was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
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010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Rat-catchers.--Drays.--Crested Partridge.--A Marvelous Story.--Sailors in the Mines.--A Verdict.--The Quartz has the best of it.--I leave Tuttle-Town</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
010.sgm:<P>RATS are very numerous in San Francisco, as also are ratting-dogs.  The roughest Skyes and most ferocious bull-dogs seem to have congregated in that city; and so much interest do the people take in the destruction of the common enemy, that a crowd is instantly collected if by chance a Scotch terrier, arrested by the flavor of a rat, wags his tail over a heap of shavings.  You will one day see a crowd in the street, dense and excited; you try in vain to obtain a glimpse of what is going on in the centre; from expressions that reach you, you feel certain that a horrid murder is being perpetrated, and this opinion is confirmed as you hear re-echoed the cry, "He is dead !--all over!"  As the crowd disperses, there issues from it the rejoicing owner of two young prize-fighting quadrupeds, and in his hand is a large rat now all tail and teeth, "the balance," as the owner remarks, having been "considerably chawed up.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Great risk and expense attend the shipment of these little dogs to California; and I was so unfortunate as not to land one of four very useful brutes that I shipped from the London Docks for that country.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>An immense quantity of drays are required in the city for the transport of goods, and the stranger will be at once struck with the superiority of breed of the horses, and the high condition in which they are kept.  It has not been worth while of late to send any thing commonplace to San Francisco; the horses therefore that are driven across the plains are generally strong and showy animals.  "Draying" has paid very well here, and many of the proprietors of these vehicles, although they drive for themselves, are well to do.  The dray harness is often mounted in German silver; and you may see any day a respectable-looking quiet man in spectacles carting a load of hay or lumber, with a handsome four-in-hand team, well groomed, and ornamented with bear-skin trappings.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The new machinery being completed, I again started for the mines, and arrived at Tuttle-Town without accident.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We had tolerable hunting-ground in our vicinity, but the game was wild from having been too much shot at.  The deer lived in the mountains, and to reach them required much walking, as the reader will understand if he glances at the background of the sketch that forms my frontispiece.  The earth on the side of the redwood hills is generally friable, and as it gives way to the pressure of the foot, the toil of ascending is very great, when the glass is at ninety.</P>
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010.sgm:<P>There was, however, ample employment for the shot-gun, as the crested partridge abounded in our neighborhood.  I have not yet mentioned this bird it is smaller than our partridge, and has all its habits, with this exception, that it will fly to trees when disturbed.  This I imagine arises from an instinctive fear of vermin, with which the country abounds, the silver gray fox being very destructive--not to speak of coyotes, snakes, and birds of prey.  There is also little cover on the ground, with the exception of stones, and when the partridge is undisturbed, it will busk among these.  The call of the male is similar to that of the English bird.  The crested partridge is hard to put up, being a great runner; harder still to shoot flying, for it is particularly strong on the wing, and flies low on a ground of much its own color.  When shot and cooked it is white, dry, and insipid; still it is a partridge, and as such is much relished.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I will mention a circumstance here in connection with shooting, which has so much of the marvelous in it that I had determined to omit it.</P>
010.sgm:<P>While encamped at Santa Rosa Valley, after leaving Carrillo's house, we were visited one morning by some Sonorians (probably those who afterward stole our cattle).  As they requested us to fire a few shots with our rifles at a mark, we consented willingly enough, and being in good practice and in good luck, we fired with success at dollars and other small targets.</P>
010.sgm:<P>An hour or two afterward, the three of us proceeded in search of venison; it was about mid-day, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The fawn stood motionless as I advanced a few paces and took, as I imagined, deadly aim. I missed, and still it did not move: the others fired, and missed also.  From the same distance (about seventy-five yards), we fired each four bullets without success; still the fawn moved but a pace or two, and our rifle ammunition was exhausted.  I then crept up to the fawn, and within twenty paces I fired twice at it with my pistol; it then, unharmed, quietly walked away in search of its mother.  We looked at each other in some doubt after this, and for a long time I was puzzled to conjecture how to account for this apparently charmed life.</P>
010.sgm:<P>At last I solved the problem in this way, as I thought.  The sun was intensely powerful, and had been reflected back to us from the yellow grass on which we had kept our eyes throughout a long walk; either this glare or the rarefaction of the air had, probably, caused an optical delusion, and the fawn appearing nearer to us than in reality it was, we fired under it.  Had this struck me at the time, I would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>This is the sole marvelous story I have to tell, and is a fact; but so capricious is reading man, that I daresay many a one who would have believed me had I related the destruction in one long shot of three buffaloes, two coyotes, and a Digger Indian, will smile incredulously at my party firing fourteen barrels within seventy paces of a motionless deer!  So be it--and annotators of circulating library books will write "Gammon !" in black-lead pencil on the margin, and I must grin while I writhe under this infliction.</P>
010.sgm:<P>About three miles from our camp was the Stanislaus River; and crossing this in a ferry-boat, we would be at once in the vicinity of a famous digging, "Carson's Hill," by name.  All that we read of that is bright and fairy-like, in connection with reported gold discoveries, has been presented as a Gradgrind fact at Carson's Hill.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The rivers produced, the hills produced, and even the quartz<ANCHOR ID="n20-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm: produced, having previously been rotted by nature, that man might pick the gold out with his penknife.  "Rich nests," "tall pockets," "big strikes," lumps and chunks, were the reward of labor at Carson's Hill; while the miserable population elsewhere <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-1">Rich deposits were discovered, but I am not aware of the value of the quartz generally at Carson's Creek.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>No one knows how many fortunes have been made at Carson's Hill, nor how many bloody battles have been fought there for the rich earth--but a great many.  Two small armies met once on the brow of the hill, and parleyed, weapons in hand and with savage looks, for as much quartz as you might carry away in a fish-cart.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Mr. James Carson, the discoverer of these diggings, asserts that in 1848 the man who would work could make from fifty to one hundred pounds sterling a day, and I have no doubt of the truth of this.</P>
010.sgm:<P>At the time when this digging was first yielding such immense profits, strict honesty was the characteristic of the miners; and a man need have no fear then, as he has now, relative to keeping his dust after he had found it, for all had enough, and it is astonishing how virtuous we become under such circumstances.  A sailor once asked his chum if a bishop was a good man?  "He ought for to be," replies the other, "for he has nothing to do but to eat, drink, and sleep, and altogether he has a deuced fine berth of it !" and Jack hit the truth in his own way.</P>
010.sgm:<P>And sailors are, perhaps, after their manner, tolerable Christians themselves; certainly they swear a little, and are said to devour in a sandwich the banknote that would serve to enrich a hospital, as from Bill Bobstay, Esq.; but whenever there is sickness or poverty among sailors, there Jack is found at the bedside the tenderest of nurses, and sharing--honest heart! --his last copper with a comrade.  A sailor in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Liberality was so great in those days, that if a stranger came to the mines and had but the appearance of one who would work, he had no difficulty in borrowing from any one all that was required for starting him, his muscles and sinews being the sole guarantee for repayment.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It was near Carson's Hill that poor Boyd worked with, a gang of men, though with what success I do not know.  Boyd was an English gentleman of independence; and in his yacht, the "Wanderer," he had visited nearly every place on the globe. He was fitted in every respect for the roving life he had chosen, and was equally at home whether he roughed it in the mountains or played the host on board the "Wanderer." Shortly after he left San Francisco, he landed at Solomon's Island to shoot wild fowl, and there was cruelly murdered by the natives.  None who knew him heard of his fate without regret: and as a finale <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>A gulch which branches off from Carson's, and which proved very rich, was discovered under circumstances of great solemnity, and I am indebted to Mr. Carson for the anecdote.</P>
010.sgm:<P>One of the miners died, and having been much respected, it was determined to give him a regular funeral.  A digger in the vicinity, who, report said, had once been a powerful preacher in the United States, was called upon to officiate; and after "drinks all round," the party proceeded, with becoming gravity, to the grave, which had been dug at a distance of a hundred yards from the camp.  When this spot was reached, the officiating minister commenced with an extempore prayer, during which all knelt round the <illus entity="a010-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE MINER'S GRAVE.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The population of the diggings, in 1848, was as varied as can be well imagined; every nation and calling was represented there, from an ex-governor to a Digger Indian.  But among this motley crew lawyers predominated; and if we may judge by the fees they received, and the quality of the law they exchanged for them, they had brought their forensic knowledge to a fine market,  As magistrates and other officers were required in the different mining districts, they Were elected by a majority of the miners, and formed a court of law.</P>
010.sgm:<P>All mining disputes were submitted to these courts, and whatever might be the decision given, <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Two Spaniards, who had amassed a large quantity of gold dust by successful digging, quarreled over the possession of an old mule that was scarcely worth her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DRAWING STRAWS.</P>
010.sgm:keep, and applied to the alcalde, or magistrate, to settle the dispute.  Before a word was said, however, each "Greaser" had to pay three ounces of dust for expenses of the court; and then, both speaking at once, each related his owe tale in Spanish, which was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>A few Digger Indians worked occasionally in our vicinity, having discovered that gold would purchase fine clothes and Nm, which was all they cared for. T!ie outfits they procured with their dust varied according to taste.   One would prefer half a dozen shirts, and wear them all at once; another would be content with a gaudy Mexican hat and a pair of jackboots; so that their partial adoption of civilized costume only served to render the uncovered parts of their bodies ridiculously conspicuous.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The Indians of California have a tradition among them which points to the days when volcanic eruptions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>It is a peculiarity of California, that although it is so rich in Bowers, the wild bee is never found there, nor did I ever hear a singing-bird.  Digging in the mines is suspended by general accord on the Sabbath, and that day is usually spent very quietly in camp, particularly as the more boisterous characters go to the nearest town to amuse themselves.  A walk over the mountains, rifle in hand, with an eye to business in the shape of "prospecting," is often the employment of the more sedate; and if the miner sometimes finds on a Sunday what serves him for an honest livelihood on week days, he is, mayhap, no worse, sir, than you whose thoughts, even in a church, are not always separate from the pounds shillings and pence you require for the engagements of the coming week.</P>
010.sgm:<P>During this time the work at the mines progressed steadily; and the new machinery being ready, we started it, fully confident of success.<ANCHOR ID="n20-2">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm: Again was our engine placed under contribution for four horses' more power than it was built for, and again did our machinery turn out a signal failure: in fact, we had iron only where we should have had the hardest of steel, and in consequence, instead of our mill grinding the quartz, the quartz had the best of it, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-2">Our object was still only to experimentalize.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>Agriculturally, architecturally, and mineralogically, I had been sported with by fate-and the plow in the north, the steam-engine in the south, and the hotel in the middle, had each been accompanied by pecuniary loss.  Yet the days I had passed had been very happy, and Philosophy said: "You have had health, and contentment, and warm friendship; and if these were purchasable, many would buy them of you for twenty times what you have lost in money!"  To which I replied, "Very true, oh, Philosophy! but had I taken my steam-engine to Russian River, and there applied its power to sawing redwoods, and had I with my plow turned up the fertile hills and valleys at Vallejo, and further, had I erected my hotel at Sonora, where it was much wanted, I might have still had the unpurchasable articles you allude to, and the money too."  Upon which Philosophy, seeing me thus unreasonable, retired from the contest.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Close upon this disaster there arrived a batch of letters for me.  My friend in San Francisco had died, and letters from home rendered my return to England necessary.  To return again, though--and to Tuttle-Town--on that point I was determined, "wind and weather permitting," as we say afloat.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I sold my steam-engine to some wretched favorites of fortune, who took it to a gulch and made money there and then.  I sold Mainspring, and Tiger, and Bevis, with grief.  I might have given them away, but I know that a man will often give more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The tools and houses I left with Rowe, Barnes, and Thomas.  The Mexicans I discharged, and presented them with the bullock hides and frying-pan, so that they were not altogether homeless; then I bade farewell to my mining village, but not yet to the Virginia men, the carpenter Judge, or constable Rowe, for these good fellows accompanied me for the first thirty miles of my journey.  Then we parted, and I firmly believe with equal regret on either side. Why not?  There had never been an unkind word between us in a year of mountain life, and as I reiterated at the last, "I'll soon be back, boys!" they knew full well that my resolution would be upheld by the memory of kindnesses received from them. Again I plod down on the "Old Soldier," who has seen the last of Choctaw, although he does not know it.  Is it a wonder that I was sorrowful when I left behind me so much that had contributed to render my life happy?  But I should have been more so had I known then that I had seen the last of Tuttle-Town and its inhabitants!</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Advice to Emigrants.--Gold Countries.--Self-doctoring.--Advice continued.--I Arrive at Stockton.</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January, 1852</HI>
010.sgm:<P>WE know that the militia of the United States is very numerous, inasmuch as it consists of every man capable of bearing arms; but it certainly would appear that all the officers have emigrated to California, so universal are the military titles there.  Now as I proceed to Stockton I meet here and there old mining acquaintances working at the gulches that I have to cross.  I am startled by a voice from a deep hole with, "How are you, Captain?" (I rank as Captain in California, being <HI REND="italics">nothing</HI>
010.sgm:; if I was a real Captain I should of course be a General there).  I turn then and at once recognize a familiar face, spite of the mud with which it is plastered. "Ah, Colonel," I reply, "what luck?  How does the gulch pay?" "Pison bad," replies the soldier, and as I depart he shouts, "You'll see the Judge at Cock-a-doodle Creek, and the Major with him, working on shares, and they're the two meanest"--the rest is lost to me, as the Colonel again disappears in his subterranean coyote digging. Further on I encounter the Judge and Major at work at a "long-tom," and "How are you, Captain?" I am asked again. "Did you see the Colonel?" says the Judge.  I answer in the affirmative.  "He's considerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:of a snake," says the Major.  "He's nothing shorter," adds the Judge.   "He's small potatoes<ANCHOR ID="n21-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1">The reader will perceive the bitter irony conveyed in this expression as contrasted with the complimentary one of "some pumpkins."</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>I have written favorably, it will be perceived, as regards the reward held out by the gold-fields of California, to those who <HI REND="italics">having arrived there</HI>
010.sgm: have seized properly the advantages that surrounded them, and I have no hesitation in saying, that to the industrious, healthy, and temperate man, a comfortable livelihood is certain; beyond this much will depend upon his energy and ability, and as regards grand results, I may add <HI REND="italics">speculative feeling</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It has appeared to me that a great number of those who fail, must attribute their ill success to not having previous to starting laid down the course they intended to pursue.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The emigrant, of whatever class, should have something definite in view; for, like a ship of discovery, he has before him, as it were, an unnavigated sea, and unknown rocks and shoals will cause him often to deviate from his track, but it should be only to return by a circuitous route to the prosecution of his journey.  But if he leaves home on the broad principle of "trying his luck," he will not only be the easier cast down by adverse circumstances, but he will stand the least chance of any of becoming eventually successful.  The truth of this was exemplified in the case of the English officers whom I found watering cabbages at Napa; they had not even decided then what they should do, or how they should turn their ability to account.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is a great drawback to the laboring emigrant to a gold country that he generally lands without capital, and is obliged at once to work where and how he may.  This, however, may be said to him-that Californian experience shows that, ill the long run, the man does best who, having prudently amassed some money at the diggings, turns his capital and abilities to the channel into which they were originally directed at home: thus, if he has been an agricultural laborer, let him farm so soon as he has saved something; if a tailor, let him turn back to the mining city, with his nuggets in his pockets, and there set up in trade: for the diggings will be replenished by new-comers, and high prices, whether for potatoes or trowsers, will still (unless peculiarly affected by overshipment) be maintained in a fair proportion to the yield of gold; and it stands to reason that, if all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:labor in the diggings is compensated proportionately with that of the digger, it is better for a working man to labor at the trade he understands.  The uncertainty of the miner's life is thus avoided, and if the profits are sometimes smaller, that is more than compensated for by regularity; for it is an extraordinary fact that, let the diggings fall off as they will, the miners will still require <HI REND="italics">bread</HI>
010.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">breeches</HI>
010.sgm:<P>When gold-fields are first discovered the profits of professional labor are proportionately great with the rate of wages, and it would appear, at the first glance, that a fine field was opened at these times for the emigration of professional young men; but I find that those occupations which combine at first large profits with comparatively easy labor, have soon so many aspirants that the markets become glutted, and the large profits are short-lived.  Thus, in California the proportion of lawyers is very great, and it would be a sad thing for that country if every legal man there could live by his profession.   Therefore it would seem that a man of education should more than all shape his course before he starts; and I think it would be wise for every emigrant, let his ability be what it may, to consider what he is fit for, to <HI REND="italics">fall back upon</HI>
010.sgm:<P>It is requisite for an emigrant of superior class that he should possess at least three qualifications independent of his abilities; viz., a small amount of capital, a good constitution, and an absence of all pride but that which nerves a man to accomplish all that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The reader may observe that my own failures scarcely bear out this remark, and this is true; but any efforts were of an experimental nature, and, as I observed elsewhere, Fortune has ever snubbed me, but the jade does it so gently that I forgive her.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The emigrating reader may try farming, housebuilding, or quartz-mining with perfect security for all that bears upon the case in my experience, unless indeed my narrative serves to point out to him the folly of embarking in what one does not understand; and I would rather, if he pleases, attribute my failures to that cause, for I thereby bring to his notice a golden rule he can never keep too much in view.  But this much is borne out by the histories of California and Australia, that gold countries increase permanently in wealth and prosperity; therefore the emigrant need not be downcast by present misfortune, he has but still to strive, and, in common with all, he will reap eventually the fruits of the great blessings which the Creator has been pleased to shower on these lands. He needs no better assurance than that he carries health, industry, and patience to a colony that is in a state of rapidly progressing improvement; and if, in those countries he may visit, as much care has been taken as in California to provide hospitals for the sick, and asylums for the destitute, <HI REND="italics">free of charge</HI>
010.sgm:, why he may land, if it so happens, shattered in mind and body, and be yet turned out a good man and true, to aid by his pickax or his plow the general <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Something has been said already, and with good purpose, to aid the emigrant in preserving his health under the influence of a new climate, and I will introduce a few remarks that have resulted from my own experience, which has not been confined entirely to the adventures herein related.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I would strongly advise every man to wear flannel or woven stuff next his skin, and let him never remove that which encases the upper part of the body but of a morning, when he bathes himself from head to foot; flannel on the chest and abdomen is more requisite perhaps by night than by day to those who are subjected to exposures.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Dispense with what is termed a medicine-chest, but which is, generally speaking, a box of rubbish, and even if well fitted is a dangerous thing to have by you.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Certain merchant vessels, which do not carry "an experienced surgeon," are supplied with medicine-chests and an accompanying book of reference.  It is related that one tarry fellow once applied to his captain for relief; his complaint was "that he had something on his stomach."  Under these circumstances the skipper turned over his pharmacopoeia, and at once prescribed two teaspoonfuls of No. 15 (the drugs being numerically arranged); on an inspection of the "chest" it was found that No. 15 had "given out," and for the moment it seemed that Jack was likely to die from want of medical assistance; but the skipper had a forethought.  There was plenty of No. 8-plenty of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:No. 7; seven and eight make fifteen, says the captain, and Jack, to whom this calculation seemed quite natural, took two teaspoonfuls of the joint mixture, and with so much benefit as this, that whatever <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
010.sgm: "on his stomach" came up with a rapidity that would have astonished the Royal College of Surgeons.  Although the intelligent emigrant would not make so great a blunder as this, he might make a greater, and kill himself, even while strictly following out his medicine book.  For self-doctoring becomes a mania, and, as with some men, you must keep the bottle away if you would have them sober, so with others, you must deprive them of calomel and opium if you would have them healthy.  I have met many infatuated fellows, who, on the first symptom of fever, have salivated themselves, from an inherent faith in the efficacy of mercury; and to see a man in the rainy season in a canvas tent, lying on a damp floor and in damp blankets, bolting calomel pills, is a sight that soon becomes very sad, and yet is very common. American emigrants are very prone to carry with them a preparation of mercury, called "blue mass;" fortunately for them there is more clay and rubbish than any thing else in the composition.  I shall carry with me, when I next start for a region where doctors are not, half a gallon of castor-oil in a tin bottle, a few trifles for the cure of wounds, mustard, and <HI REND="italics">quinine</HI>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>When first arrived at his new home the emigrant should avoid exposure to the mid-day sun or night air; but if he be a digger in the gold-fields, let him make this rule, that so soon as he feels the first symptom of illness, he will <HI REND="italics">lay by</HI>
010.sgm: for twenty-four hours.  Premonitory fever can be arrested very easily by rest and quiet, but in nearly every instance it is aggravated to a dangerous pitch by a feeling of pride that will not allow a man to surrender; and the fear of the jeers of his healthier companions will often cause a man to continue work, when prudence would dictate an opposite course.  When headache and sickness attack you, <HI REND="italics">then</HI>
010.sgm: you may give in.  A dose of medicine and a little rest will restore you, and shortly you will become acclimated; but if you fight against feverish symptoms, you may recover, but will probably be a wreck for life.  There is an inclination to bathe when fever first appears; avoid that.  I became very ill from bathing in the Chagres river one evening, to relieve, as I thought, the headache consequent on exposure to the heat, and Barnes nearly succumbed to a fever produced by the same cause; and although they are not mentioned in this narrative in their proper places, several cases of intermittent fever have from time to time appeared among my party, otherwise I should not presume to lay down any rule for the guidance of others; nor would I now, but that I have seen so many lose their lives from a want of the most ordinary precaution.  I would advise the emigrant to the gold-fields to encumber himself as little as possible with what is called an "outfit."  Flannel clothing, thick socks, and the best highlows that can be made for money, he should select with care.  Let him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:take also good blankets.  There is no better protection for a man in wet seasons than a blanket with a hole cut in the middle for his head to come through: the body is free, the perspiration is unconfined, and you can't wear the blanket out.  India-rubber I can not recommend; it is, I believe, more productive of ague than any thing else, for it confines the perspiration, and subjects the wearer to a sudden check when it is removed. An India-rubber counterpane is useful, hut should be placed over, not under, for it absorbs the moisture at all seasons, and makes a point of sending the rheumatism into your back if you lie on it.<ANCHOR ID="n21-2">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-2">The best use to which an India-rubber sheet can be put, is to protect during the day that part of the ground on which you sleep at night.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>After one of the San Francisco fires an intelligent blacksmith bought up a quantity of "burnt-out" gun-barrels; these were filled up to give weight, and the breach of each was fashioned to the shape of a crowbar.  These instruments sold very well; but if ever there is a calendar of saints in California, that enterprising blacksmith will not be one of them! or if he is, he will have been sworn at more than a saint by right should be.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I have said all that occurs to me would be of service to the emigrant: it is little enough, and may have been said before; but if it only corroborates the experience Of others, it answers fully the end I have in view.  And I have no hesitation in submitting these remarks, for the great advantage of one man falling into a pit is that he can show thousands how to avoid it.  I have plunged headlong into many such holes, and as I would myself avoid them for the future, so I would that others should.  And although in the form that this is published it will not probably meet the eye of the poor man; still, if those who through the journals they conduct so bravely cheer and assist the emigrant, see any thing in these remarks that may save him from unnecessary expense or sickness, they will, I know, too gladly in their own way extend the aid which I intend. Above all, I would that the emigrant who has a little money should be impressed with the necessity of carrying as much of his fund out with him as he can.  The best ten pounds a poor man can spend is that which enables him on his arrival in a new country to look about him for a day or two before he begins his work.</P>
010.sgm:<P>When I arrived at Stockton, I found the streets of that city so cut up by the traffic of the winter, that in many parts of the public thoroughfare there were mud holes that it was necessary to avoid.  The spectators on the pathway became quite interested as I plunged through the main street on the Old Soldier, and one would have thought that I was a steamboat on the point of explosion by the crowd that followed my movements.  I was already deep over my Saddle-girths; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I slept that night in a Stockton hotel, and waking at dawn, I started out of bed and raised a shout; it was but the force of habit; but although the Tuttletonian pigs were nearly a degree of longitude away, I had mechanically armed myself with the water-jug before I remembered the fact.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The next morning I started for San Francisco in a very small steamboat, and seeing the San Joaquin river for the first time by daylight, I observed that it was very ugly; it only required alligators to make it perfect in this respect.  There was but one wheel to our boat, and that was astern; and as the accommodation part of the vessel was built to a great height, it was something like a small wheelbarrow with a large trunk on it, going the wrong way.  We passed Benicia with a fair tide, and after stemming a stiff breeze--of which the Old Soldier got the full benefit, as he was in the stem of the boat, and formed a temporary figure-head--we arrived at San Francisco about dusk. I was fortunate in getting a kind master for the old horse, and I have seen him since, fatter than ever he was with me, carrying vegetables about the town with no more pride than if he was a common animal. </P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Elections.--Executions.--Reforms.--Exiles.--"Know Nothings."--Testimonials.--Speaking Trumpets.--Ocean Steamers.--Life buoys.--Air-boats.--Confidence necessary.--Fitting a Raft.--A Suggestion</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">March, 1852.</HI>
010.sgm:<HSEP>WHEN I arrived at San Francisco, I found the authorities very busy altering the grades of the streets, and covering them with planks.<HSEP>As the rear of the town had been built on sand, at an elevation of some twenty feet above the new grade, the houses there had soon the appearance of being built on the edge of a dry ravine, into which most of them tumbled one by one.  These house-slips would generally take place by night; but as the buildings were of the band-box style of architecture, no harm was done when one of them rolled down the hill, further than an awful smashing of the domestic crockery. Those tenements that outlived this trying season, were seized with a panic, and changed their quarters.<HSEP>Some were raised bodily by means of lever screws, and being placed on rollers, were pushed and hauled into a position of safety, while the very small ones were removed down the ravine by the help of half-a-dozen yoke of oxen, and were planted somewhere else; but the appearance of these was so far marred by this operation, that they presented ever afterward a crushed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The Americans are very clever at raising houses and removing them. I have often seen one prised from one side of the street to the other without injury; and a house that I have since inhabited in San Francisco, was raised bodily four feet, to correspond with the new grade, without in any way interfering with our internal arrangements. Brick houses have thus been raised and a new basement built under them; but one peculiarity is apparent after all is completed-that the doors and windows that have been left open can not be afterward shut, and those that have been shut can not, by the same rule, be opened.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I was present at more than one of the general elections at San Francisco, and in connection with this ceremony lies one of the greatest drawbacks of the country. Setting aside the means by which governors and legislators are brought into office by a majority of votes, I will take the case alone of the elected judges of the State of California. Many who have barely a knowledge of common law, here come forward for the office of judge, and are elected-how, it matters not--but such men have been elevated to the bench, and once there, have detracted as much from its dignity as men well could. Murderers passed and repassed before them unpunished, and this, in part, gave rise to the actions of the Vigilance Committee.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It has been unfortunate for California that the elections have been long controlled by a dishonest class, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:the least likely to support such candidates as would place a check upon crime.  However, the press of the country, and the people, are fully alive to the existence of this evil,<ANCHOR ID="n22-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-1">Since this was written, an election has taken place, calculated to give satisfaction to the Reform Party.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>It has been very difficult to get a jury to convict a murderer in this country; I am puzzled to say why, for self-interest would dictate an unusual degree of severity-still the fact stands, that in twelve hundred murders, but two men have been publicly executed. One man acting under jealousy, ill-founded as it appeared on trial, walked up behind his victim in the street, and then and there blew his brains out; yet the jury would not convict this man, and he was sentenced to a year's imprisonment only.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The judge should not have been bound by such a verdict, for either the man was guilty of cold-blooded murder, or was altogether innocent.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The press,<ANCHOR ID="n22-2">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-2">A little paper called the "Sun" deserves great credit for the courage with which it has attacked existing abuses!</NOTE>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>When once the seed of reform is implanted in California, it grows with great rapidity.  It may be that the greatest sinners make the greatest saints; but certainly, the most carelessly dissipated community that ever was brought together, have already, in their new position, enacted laws for the complete overthrow of many of those so called "necessary evils" that are borne with in cities of older growth, and more self-assumed wisdom, and infinitely greater professions of sanctity.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is said that one surfeit of raspberry-tarts will produce, in the pastrycook's boy, a permanent nausea for these luscious things; thus with Californians, they have seen vice and debauchery in so awful a shape, that in the reaction of feeling more good is being done to the country as regards sweeping reform, than would have happened in twenty times the time had the early colonists been at the first but ordinarily virtuous.  The thorn is extracted at once, and there is an end of temporizing and preaching, which lead to nothing at times, as any one may see who will visit some of our cathedral cities, and learn something of the statistics of the immorality which exists within them, and the number of divines who are there to raise their voices against it.</P>
010.sgm:<P>One of the Irish convicts who had escaped by breaking his parole, arrived in San Francisco about this time, and was feasted and made much of by a certain class who are to be found in many parts of the United States, and are monomaniacs on the subject of America opening her arms and welcoming to her soil the political exiles of other countries.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The free hospitality which America extends to exiles of all classes, is to be admired; what a pity, then, to detract from its dignity by a vulgar "&eacute;meute," which, after all, is extended as much to a singer or fiddler, as to a (so-called) champion of liberty.  But the exiles generally do not seem to improve on acquaintance, and the days of triumphal entry are passed for them, and no wonder; for they are not always grateful.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Take the case of one who, being welcomed to the United States, at once devotes his energies to the production of a journal which will not only arouse political bitterness on the spot, but carefully keeps alive what remnant of bigoted hostility to England yet slumbers in the country.  Now, as the man who sows discord between this country and America is an enemy as much of the latter as of the former, is it not inconsistent that such a one should be bespeeched and be-dinnered on his arrival?  However, a man may be bowed obsequiously into a house, only to be kicked, on acquaintance, ignominiously out of it, and I imagine that more than one political refugee in America will live to experience a similar reverse of fortune.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The "Know Nothings," it would appear, have set their faces against foreigners holding office in the United States.  If this political sect would exert their influence to prevent rabid runaway rebels, who land among them, from revenging themselves by exciting animosity against the country that has cast them off, they would do a great deal of good to the United States.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>And, indeed, as regards the exclusion of naturalized subjects from office, the "Know Nothings" are, in my opinion, right to a certain extent; for if we divide those who swear allegiance to the United States into two classes, we have, firstly, the poor emigrants who leave an over-populated country to spread themselves, in obedience, as it were, to a law of nature, over the vast unpeopled forests and plains of a new continent; and, secondly, the educated class, who can do well at home, but can do <HI REND="italics">better</HI>
010.sgm: by forsaking one flag to cling (as long as it suits them) to another.   This class are known as "Whitewashed Yankees," a term that may be complimentary, but does not sound like it.  It is from this educated class of naturalized subjects that the aspirants for office step forward, and under all the circumstances, I am not surprised that a large sect of Americans now oppose them.  For it appears to me, that a man who has felt so little patriotism for his native land as to abjure it formally from interested motives, is not likely to remain faithful to the new country he adopts, any longer than suits his purpose.  His motives are, at the best, based on self, and he is consequently not the best qualified either to hold office or to conduct the public press.<ANCHOR ID="n22-3">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-3">I beg to forestall the remark that may here be applied to me, that I am myself a <HI REND="italics">Know Nothing</HI>
010.sgm:<P>There is a disproportionate number of jewelers and goldsmiths in San Francisco, yet all drive a flourishing business.  Two articles are in great demand, viz., gold watches and silver speaking-trumpets.  Nearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The speaking-trumpets, of which so many may be seen in the jewelers' shop fronts, are accounted for by the habit the San Franciscans have of presenting a testimonial to the captain of any ship who may have brought them safely into port.  This testimonial is almost invariably a speaking-trumpet, which is tendered to the skipper, with a request that he will blow it, from the undersigned, etc., etc.  This mania became so strong at one time, that if the captain of any Oregon schooner with a cargo of lumber arrived in safety with two passengers and a dog, there was no knowing what honors awaited him; at least, a letter of thanks from the passengers and dog, but probably a speaking-trumpet; so that soon there was more ridicule than honor attached to these testimonials.</P>
010.sgm:<P>When nearing San Francisco one day in a noble steamship, whereof the captain had done his duty by piloting the ship in safety and attending to the comforts of his passengers, a gentleman arose toward the close of our last dinner on board, and amidst profound silence, commenced eulogizing our skipper.  I sat next to this latter, and when the orator continued, "Therefore, gentlemen, it has been moved and carried by a committee of the passengers, that to mark the high sense they entertain," the poor skipper turned to me with anguish in his eyes, and whispered, "By G--d, they're going to give me a speaking-trumpet." <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>349</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>I secured my passage on board the "Northerner," and started on my way to England, in company with about two hundred and fifty passengers.  The weather was delightful, and the wharf was crowded with friends who had come down to see us off: the partings were not very heart-rending; in fact, the great joke seemed to consist in those who were on the wharf pelting us with oranges and cheap novels as we cast off.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As we steamed out of the bay and lost sight of the busy city at last, we could not but think of the changes and reverses that all of us had been witness to, and most of us had shared.  I for my part, as I recalled the noble courage with which misfortune had been borne with by the people, echoed the remark that Smith and Jones had made conjointly on the ruins of the first fire.</P>
010.sgm:<P>SMITH. "It's a great country!"</P>
010.sgm:<P>JONES. "It's nothing shorter!"</P>
010.sgm:<P>We were very comfortable on board, and arrived at Panama so much pleased with the ship and the voyage, that it was lucky for the captain that there were no speaking-trumpets to be purchased at Panama; as it was, we did not let him off without a letter of thanks-and our thanks in one form or the other he certainly deserved; his name was Isham.  Captains of ocean steamers do not always perform their duty; many are apt to forget that more devolves upon them than mere seamanship; some forget even this.</P>
010.sgm:<P>In the great points, of cleanliness as regards the ship, attention to the real wants of the passengers, and a judicious arbitration of such little outbreaks as will occur in crowded vessels, the commanders of the Pacific Mail Steamship Line (to which the "Northerner" belonged) deservedly enjoy a reputation.  The ocean steamers on this line, as also on the opposition, which takes the Nicaragua route, are magnifiCent vessels.  Many of them are over three thousand tons burden, and are very fast and beautifully found. Ventilated with open ports two feet square between each state-room, they are comfortable and wholesome even when carrying eight hundred passengers; and it is the want of ventilation that makes a crowded ship unbearable any where, and in the tropics unhealthy.</P>
010.sgm:<P>A large proportion of ocean steamers are wretchedly off in this respect, and travelers in the East or West Indies are often limited when under hatches to such air as can penetrate through a scuttle-hole about the size of a saucer.</P>
010.sgm:<P>One American steamship, the "George Law," possesses what I have never met with in any other boat; she has not only life-boats<ANCHOR ID="n22-4">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm: suspended from her davits <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>351</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:on all sides, but she has two metal air-boats elevated on deck, that can be launched <HI REND="italics">immediately under any circumstances</HI>
010.sgm:.  Besides these boats there are on board several hundred life-buoys, one of these being suspended to each bunk throughout the ship.   These life-buoys are formed of cork and painted canvas, and have straps to fasten them under the arms.  As I recall the fearful and unnecessary loss of life that has been recorded in the last two years, I have scarcely patience when I reflect how much of it might have been avoided had each passenger, as on board the "George Law," been provided with ten shillings worth of cork and canvas.  I was ten days on board the "George Law," and each night as I went to bed, my eyes were arrested by my life-buoy.  It said plainly to me, did this life-buoy (not knowing that I was a sailor by profession), "Collisions will take place, spontaneous combustion will break out, and sunken wrecks and rocks and sand-banks will be run upon; should any of these occur, will you not quietly buckle me on, being <HI REND="italics">prepared by your daily contemplation of me for any such emergency</HI>
010.sgm:, and will you not then calmly assist wherever you are wanted, in the full confidence that even if the ship sinks under you, you can float without exertion until you are picked up by the life-boats?"  Certainly the contemplation of a life-buoy by one's bedside will bring such thoughts to mind, and by keeping the danger before each man night and day, prepares him when the hour comes, to act coolly and reflectively.  But we may look farther even than this; if the presence of life-buoys accustoms passengers to contemplate danger, and to meet it calmly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>352</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:when it comes, does it not stand to reason that the captain and crew of a sinking vessel are better able to exert themselves for the safety of the vessel, or otherwise the lowering and provisioning of boats, when the passengers, confident in their cork and canvas, are calmly awaiting the <HI REND="italics">order</HI>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-4">*Air-boats with lines and floats suspended from their gunwales.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>It may be said that every passenger can carry his own life-preserver, and that most do so i this is nothing; it gives me no increased confidence to know that Muggins who sleeps next to me has an India-rubber bag that he can blow out each night before turning in.  The advantage of disposing life-buoys throughout the ship, as in the "George Law," is in the general confidence which their presence gives to all, and when the moment of danger comes, that ten shillings' worth of cork and canvas will enable those who can not swim to keep above water, and those who can swim to double their exertions to form a raft and save the helpless.  There is not, to my knowledge, an ocean steamer that leaves England that is properly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>353</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:found in this respect, nor will there be until government inspectors are appointed to see that they are supplied with life-boats that can be lowered in all weather, and do not necessarily swamp if a "fall" gives way, or bilge as they surge against the vessel's side. And captains of vessels should be made to keep their boats clear, so far as this, that falls should be kept clear for running, and lashings and gripes so secured as <HI REND="italics">easily to be cast off</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Judging not only by the details we receive from the survivors of lost ships, but from what actually comes before our notice as we travel to and fro, it appears as a fact indisputable, that not only are steamboats ill-supplied with the requisites for saving life in case of shipwreck, but that what they have are seldom of use when wanted.  With long-boats on board that can only be hoisted out under favorable circumstances, cutters and gigs at the davits lashed and secured, and covered with tarpaulin, filled with hay perhaps, or vegetables, containing neither oars, compass, or tow-rope, is it a wonder that in nearly every case of shipwreck we find the loss of life aggravated by the confusion and mismanagement which accompanies the lowering of boats, or the attempted construction of a raft?  A few hundred pounds would amply supply every ship with the requisites for preservation of life in addition to those they already possess, and of what account is this sum in the grand total of the cost of a steamship?  Air-boats, or life.buoys are by no means perishable or costly articles: but how much less sad would have been the history of sinking and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>354</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:burning troop-ships had they been supplied with them?<ANCHOR ID="n22-5">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-5">As this goes to press I add a few extracts from a report in the "Times" of December 8, 1854, of the loss of the troop-ship "Charlotte" and 117 lives in Algoa Bay, September 20th:<HSEP>". . . On the life-boat coming alongside it was found that every one on board was completely <HI REND="italics">paralyzed</HI>
010.sgm: or overcome by -he calamity. . . . Three separate times the life-boat pulled alongside, but there was no one in a position even to cast a line to it. . . . A great number <HI REND="italics">threw themselves overboard</HI>
010.sgm:.  Some were fortunate enough to reach the shore, but the majority were drowned." This ship was apparently in a position favorable for the preservation of life, had <HI REND="italics">confidence</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Of what avail is the splendid discipline and admirable courage that is displayed by soldiers in burning and sinking ships, when each man has but to wait the hour when he must go overboard and drown helplessly. I would not only have each soldier in a troop-ship provided with a life-buoy, but I would also that each man, previous to sailing, should be made to go once into deep water with the life-buoy on, so that he might be convinced in smooth water that the cork would uphold his weight-a fact more difficult to believe when the trial has to take place in a hurricane, and from a sinking ship.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Each vessel carries (or rather should carry) a sufficient number of spare spars to replace those that may be carried away; there is seldom a call for the largest of these in a well-managed ship, yet +hey form part of her furniture, and are generally lashed on deck or under the chains.</P>
010.sgm:<P>By a little management these spare topmasts and yards might be so fitted, without impairing their utility, as to form a raft, in conjunction with casks, in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>355</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:very short time. The crew might be practiced shortly after leaving port at launching these spars and connecting them; the passengers would be instructed equally with the crew; and in emigrant and troop ships those who could swim might at once be sent overboard (with their life buoys) to assist in the construction of the raft.<ANCHOR ID="n22-6">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-6">These remarks were written previous to the loss of the "Arctic."</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>To make this more plain, let us suppose a ship, whether carrying troops, emigrants, or passengers, to be twenty-four hours out of port; an order is posted up that all hands are to muster on deck with their life-buoys at a given hour, when the fire-bell will be sounded.  The ship or steamer is hove to, the spars are unlashed, bunched, and the raft is put together, the boats are lowered, and the passengers then see at least that the means of safety are provided for them.   Those that can swim can go overboard if they please and lend a hand.  Hoist every thing on board, and you have lost perhaps three hours of your passage time, but a vast deal has been accomplished toward saving life, if the ship that night should run upon a rock and perish.  Every thing would be in its place, and all that could be done would be done.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I fear that there would be much opposition to such a plan on board passenger ships, for when danger is far off there is little disposition to submit to any arbitrary regulations, even though adopted for their own safety; but in emigrant and troop-ships the practice might be enforced.  I would have troops and emigrants mustered regularly with their life-buoys on, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>356</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>They say drowning men will catch at a straw; let us give our brave soldiers something to catch at, in the hour of emergency, that will serve to keep them at least a short time above water; and let our "Royal Mail lines" take some precautions of this nature for their passengers, and charge for it extra, if they like, in the passage money.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Shortly after the loss of the "Amazon" I was taking a passage in one of the West India boats, and I observed that, in the ship's fire bill, which was exposed, the crew and officers only had been stationed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>358</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>"Hercules" Fails.--Land Crabs.--Mr. Bobbins.--"Rushing" the Ship.--New York</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
010.sgm:<P>THE weather being fine, the roads were in tolerable order when we arrived at Panama; we made light, therefore, of the journey, and, having arrived at Gorgona, we dismounted from our mules, and, taking boats, went swiftly down the rapid river, landing at the village of Barbacoes, to which point the railway was now completed.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The station-house consisted of a large shed, in which hundreds of fowls and thousands of eggs were being cooked, eaten, and paid for with astonishing rapidity.  I observed, among other things, that the coffee was just as weak and scalding hot at Barbacoes, as at Wolverhampton, or any other refreshment station.</P>
010.sgm:<P>There was no time-table here at this period; but the line had this advantage over most others, that the train started at the time specified by the authorities; for they waited until it suited them, and then gave the order to "let her slide."</P>
010.sgm:<P>On this eventful day, however, we had not "slid" above two miles when the train stopped.  Returning Californians are of a vivacious temperament generally, and are seldom at their ease when sitting down inactive; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>359</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHAGRES RIVER.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>361</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The scene would have been splendid, for like the two goats that met on the narrow bridge, one train would have tried to force the other back, and in this contest of personal strength I think the nine hundred returning Californians would most probably have won the day, and entered Aspinwall in triumph. </P>
010.sgm:<P>Having reached the top of the hill, we all got in, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>362</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>In a pouring rain we arrived at Aspinwall, and this being the terminus, we proceeded at once on board the steamers that were waiting to convey us to New York.  There happened to be an unusual number of opposition boats in the bay, so that fares were so reduced that the roughest fellow there could take a first-class berth.  This was very unfair to those of us who had booked our places through at the office of the Mail Line in San Francisco, for we had paid a certain price for a certain degree of comfort and room, and this was denied to us so soon as the price of the saloon fare rendered it so overcrowded that the tables had to be laid <HI REND="italics">twelve times</HI>
010.sgm:<P>Thus the saloon was continually occupied, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>363</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>One day at dinner this fellow, being affronted at some negligence on the part of the waiter, said, "Aw! do you take me for a returned Californian?"</P>
010.sgm:<P>This remark, being audible above the din of knives and forks, produced a sudden silence, and, for a moment, I thought that Mr. Bobbins's ears would have been taken off with a carving-knife.   Fortunately for him, however, each one was in high spirits at the thought of reaching home, and being very hungry, continued his dinner without waiting to resent the impertinence.</P>
010.sgm:<P>There was a man on board who had brought with him from the mines two young grizzly bear cubs, who were just getting large enough to be dangerous, and that evening, as Mr. Bobbins was dreamily enjoying a cigar on deck, he was aroused from the contemplation of his patent leather boots by moonlight with, "Sir, allow me to introduce to you two returned Californians."  Ursa major, thereupon, being held up, scratched Bobbins's face, while ursa minor attacked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>364</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<illus entity="a010-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. BOBBINS.</P>
010.sgm:<P>While one miner held a screeching, biting, ring-tailed monkey over Mr. Bobbins's head, another produced a savage bull-terrier, who, having done his duty at the mines dogfully, seemed very anxious indeed to make the acquaintance of Mr. Bobbins's throat.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It was some time before the "returned Californians" could tear themselves away from their new acquaintance, and when they did, they tore away more of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>365</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>The next day we arrived at Havana, and Mr. Bobbins was wise enough to leave the ship and await a passage in another vessel, and I only wish that every traveling "gent" who, puffed out with conceit, causes his countrymen to blush for his ignorance and vulgarity, may get as durable a lesson as that which Mr. Bobbins received from the four-footed "returned Californians."</P>
010.sgm:<P>At Havana we found that Americans were in bad odor, on account of the fillibustering expeditions which had but lately been repulsed.  As we steamed out of the harbor, an intelligent miner observed to me, "I guess that place will soon belong to our people."</P>
010.sgm:<P>"Do you think Spain will sell it?" I asked.</P>
010.sgm:<P>"Our people will take it," he replied.</P>
010.sgm:<P>"But," said I, "suppose England and France should interfere."</P>
010.sgm:<P>"Whip them," was the laconic reply, and he turned on his heel.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I mention this, because a large portion of the people of the United States, remembering only the successful frigate actions in which, during the last war, they reaped laurels, are ignorant respecting the real strength of their navy at this moment.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As our captain wished to arrive at New York before the opposition boats, all steam was carried that the boilers could bear, and a little more, I suspect. In fact we were to "rush the ship," and she so trembled fore and aft with the work, that it was almost impossible <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>366</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>She was a beautiful boat, built for the most part of pine, I believe, and there was 210 difficulty in placing, under favorable circumstances, three hundred and fifty miles a day on her log board, independent of any favorable current.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Soon, however, we were in the Gulf Stream, and were met by signs of a southeaster; first it "clouded up," as a miner remarked, and then it "breezed up considerable," after which night came on and with it the gale.  These southeasters have a way of chop ping round when at their height, and by this eccentric conduct many vessels are lost.  One of the officers informed me that a short time previously a brig called the "John Hill," was taken aback in this way, and her cargo of molasses shifted and burst the decks, upon which, "John Hill" became water-logged. Two days after the mate was taken off the wreck with two legs and an arm broken; and, concluded my informant, the captain was found two miles oft "in good shape," floating on a hen-coop--the rest of the crew were lost.  Fine weather succeeded the gale, doubly fine by contrast, and as we passed Sandy Hook, and steamed up New York Bay, the shores on either side, white with snow, shone brilliantly in the winter's sun; and the leafless trees that grew in copses here and there in naked desolation, had more charm for us, being nearer home, than ever had the vivid green of the palms and ferns that ten days back we had seen at Panama.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>367</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Thus is our appreciation of the beautiful ever dependent on association; and to me the white cliffs of my own country, whether I am casting the last glance on leaving them, or straining my eyes as I first catch a glimpse of them as I return, these ugly chalky cliffs have more actual charm for my eye than all that I have ever seen elsewhere of nature's rarest gifts.</P>
010.sgm:<P>There is nothing left for me to say of New York, others having recorded more than I could learn of it in a week's sojourn there.  Having visited many places of note, that have been already accurately described, I turned into Barnum's Museum to see the woolly horse, but I could not find it; being disappointed in the natural history department, I stopped to witness the theatrical performance, and this so impressed me that I subjoin for the benefit of the reader a bill of performance, which I extracted from an American journal:</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Just opened, with 100,000 Curiosities, and performance in Lecter-Room; among witch may be found<LB>TWO LIVE BOAR CONSTRICTERS,<LB>Mail and Femail.<LB>ALSO!!<LB>A STRIPED ALGEBRA, STUFT.<LB>BESIDES!!<LB>A PAIR OF SHUTTLE <HI REND="italics">COCKS</HI>
010.sgm: AND ONE SHUTTLE HEN-alive<LB>THE!<LB>SWORD WITCH GEN. WELLINGTON FIT WITH AT THE<LB>BATTEL OF WATERLOO! whom is Six feet long and<LB>broad in proportion.</HI>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>368</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">WITH!!!<LB>A ENORMOUS RATTLETAlL SNAKE--a regular wopper!<LB>AND!<LB>THE TUSHES OF A HIPPOTENUSE!<LB>Together with!<LB>A BENGALL TIGER: SPOTTED LEPROSY!  <HI REND="italics">GREAT MORAL SPECTACLE OF "MOUNT VESUVIUS</HI>
010.sgm:."<LB>PART ONE.<LB>Seen opens.  Distant Moon.  View of Bey of Napels.  A thin smoke rises.  <HI REND="italics">It is the Beginning of the Erection</HI>
010.sgm:!  The Napels folks begin to travel. Yaller fire, follered by Silent thunder.  Awful consternation.  <HI REND="italics">Suthin rumbles</HI>
010.sgm:! It is the Mounting preparin' to Vomic! They call upon the Fire Department.  <HI REND="italics">It's no use</HI>
010.sgm:!  Flight of stool-pidgeons.  A cloud of impenetrable smoke hang over the fated city, through witch the Naplers are seen makin' tracks.  Awful explosion of bulbs, kurbs, forniquets, pin weels, serpentiles, and fourbillon spirals!  The Moulting Laver begins to squash but!<LB>End of Part One.<LB>COMIC SONG.<LB>The Parochial Beedle<HSEP>Mr. Mullet.<LB>LIVE INJUN ON THE SLACK WIRE.<LB>Live Injun<HSEP>Mr. Mullet.<LB>OBLIGATIONS ON THE CORNUCOPIA, BY SIGNOR VERMICELLI.<LB>Signor Vermicelli<HSEP>Mr. Mullet.<LB>In the course of the evening will be an exhibishun of Exileratin'<LB>Gas! upon a Laffin Highena!<LB>Laffin Highena<HSEP>Mr. Mullet.<LB>PART TWO.<LB>Bey of Napels 'luminnted by Bendola Lites.  The lava gushes down.  Through the smoke is seen the city in a state of conflagration.  The last family!  " <HI REND="italics">WHAR is our parents</HI>
010.sgm:?"  A red hot stone of eleving tuns weight falls onto 'em.  The bearheaded father falls scentless before the statoo of the Virgin!  <HI REND="italics">Denumong</HI>
010.sgm:!!<LB>The hole to conclude with a<LB>GRAND SHAKSPEARING PYROLIGNEOUS DISPLAY OF FIREWURX!!<LB>Maroon Bulbs, changing to a spiral weel, witch changes to the Star of our Union: after to butiful p'ints of red lites; to finish with busting into a Brilliant Perspiration!</HI>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Real Highlander     Mr. Mullet.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Any boy making a muss, will be injected to once't.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As the Museum is Temperance, no drinkin' aloud, but anyone will find the best of lickers in the Sloon below.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Could I have witnessed such an entertainment as this, together with the woolly horse, my chapter on New York would have been swelled both in size and importance.</P>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>370</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>Yellow Fever.--A wooden Head.--Hard Times.--A Gale.--We spring a Leak.--Acapulco.--Smuggling.--Cholera.--Conclusion</P>
010.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Christmas, 1852.</HI>
010.sgm:<HSEP>"I'll soon be back, boys," was my last remark, it will be remembered, as I parted from the Tuttletonians on the road; consequently, in the winter of 1852, I found myself at the island of St. Thomas, on my way back to the scrofulous pigs, the Carpenter Judge, and Constable Rowe.  I had made up my mind that for the time being I would have no more to do with quartz-mining. I saw that there was much respecting it that would remain enigmatical until the application of capital and science had produced results; so as the English Mining Companies appeared to possess both capital and science in abundance, I determined to wait and learn something from their operations, and for that matter I am waiting still. As my wife accompanied me, I had made up my mind to jog on by easy stages to San Francisco, and when arrived there, visit either Southern California or the Great Salt Desert.  Having had a rough passage out, we were resting for a few days at St. Thomas, when the yellow fever broke out with great violence; soon the ships in harbor lost all their crews, and the population ashore became panic-struck with the virulence and suddenness of the disease.  I was glad when the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>The features of the yellow fever, as then exemplified, were very horrible.  I shall not, therefore, describe them, but merely mention that the disease commenced with a bleeding from the nose and gums, and this hemorrhage in many cases could not be checked while life remained.</P>
010.sgm:<P>We had about twelve passengers on board, all English but one; five of them were sturdy Cornish miners proceeding to California.  The first passenger attacked was Mr. Adams, an American; and as we were then in sight of Aspinwall, we hoped to land in an hour or two, and fly from the epidemic, which had not as yet appeared on the Isthmus.  We left Mr. Adams bleeding profusely from the nose, and we afterward heard of his death.  There was a vague fear among us that we were not quite safe, so we hurried on to Gorgona, which village we reached that night.  The rain descended without cessation, and we had arrived at the close of one of the heaviest wet seasons that had been known for years.  The roads were described as being in many places impassable, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>372</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Had not the yellow fever been behind us, our party would, I believe, have turned back to spare the women such a fearful trial.  I say, believe, for the night before I had been attacked by yellow fever, and now as we stumbled and slid, and scrambled and swam through the red fat mud, I knew nothing.</P>
010.sgm:<P>My head was of wood, as it were, or lead, and if any one had chopped it off I should not have known it, but have gone on quite as comfortably.  I had but one fixed idea, and that was that I wanted water; sometimes I got it, oftener it was not to be had, and I have no doubt that I pondered dreamily over this circumstance as something remarkable.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Of course I tumbled off a great many times, but not so often as was expected; a habit of riding enabled me to keep a certain kind of seat even under such trying circumstances.  I cared little for tumbling off, but was roused to anger at being lifted on again; however, my wife did the best she could for me, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:by night-fall we arrived at a hut on the side of the road to sleep.  There was no Californian traffic on the road at this period, and our party consisted but of three men and two women, the Cornish miners having proceeded on foot the day previously.  They placed us in a small loft, through the chinks of which could be perceived some half dozen ruffian-looking armed natives, who had congregated below.  I suppose they did not murder us because they thought we had no money; otherwise they would have done so, unless they made an exception in our favor over other unarmed passengers who got benighted at these seasons.  It rained still as we plodded on next day, and we passed a slough where, a day or two before, a woman had fallen off her mule and was suffocated before assistance reached her.  My head was, if possible, more wooden than ever, and I became much distressed at one place where I lost my boots in the mud; for the moment I argued quite reasonably on this subject, but soon becoming unmanned, I burst into tears, and proceeded on my way, stolid, stupid, and bootless.  Our party arrived at Panama half dead with fatigue, draggled with mud, and shivering in the torn clothes that for nearly sixty hours had been drenched in rain.  I was placed in bed; the other male passengers--all of whom had arrived in good health-made themselves comfortable, and thought no more of the Dee, or the rain, or the mud.  In less than ten days <HI REND="italics">they all died of yellow fever but one</HI>
010.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>The hotel we had selected was undergoing a complete restoration, and was very merry with the noise of whistling carpenters, who kept time with their hammers.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The best accommodation we could procure was a small whitewashed room at the furthest end of the court-yard; in this room were two small stretcher beds, without mattresses or covering of any kind, and as times went, we were fortunate in procuring these, for Panama was very full.  There were no servants in the hotel; there was seldom any thing to eat, and when there was, the cooks were drunk and mutinous and refused to cook.  After six o'clock the fires were put out, and the cooks went away altogether until the next morning, when they would stroll in early or late, just as suited them.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I was laid on a stretCher bed, and fortunately for me the doctor who attended me was clever in his profession, and gave me no medicine.  After a day or two I commenced bleeding at the mouth as the others had done, and a sad time my wife must have had, as she sat by my bedside and wiped away the hot blood as drop by drop it trickled from my lips, watChing me die, as all thought then I should do.</P>
010.sgm:<P>During this time I felt no pain, and although I never lost my consciousness, I was in that dreamy state in which I could embrace no fixed idea; my reflective faculties were lost to me; I never thought whether I was to get up again or die.  I wished to be left alone in that undisturbed enjoyment which one can fancy a dog feels as he lies in the sun winking and blinking at humanity.</P>
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010.sgm:<P>When at last I recovered and could sit up, I found that all my companions of the Dee had died.  I soon got ravenously hungry, and then came the worst part, for I was restricted to a very small allowance of food. I was so yellow that I became quite vain on the subject, and my chief delight for a long time was to contemplate myself in the glass.  It is customary to say of a man with the jaundice, that he is as yellow as an orange; an orange paled by my side, and my skin was of so bright a hue, that to have given me a coat of gamboge would have been to paint the lily.<ANCHOR ID="n24-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-1">I trust the reader will understand that if I omit to write seriously of my feelings on recovery from a death-bed, it is because I consider a work like this no place for them.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>It seemed that we had brought the yellow fever with us to Panama, or rather it appeared at the time of our arrival, and it was now spreading with great rapidity.  Cholera also broke out, and deaths from one or the other of these causes became very numerous.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The people being panic-struck, a great rush was made for the Californian boats, of which there happened, at this time, to be very few.</P>
010.sgm:<P>So soon as I was able to move, there was but one small screw steamer in port, and as the place was daily becoming more unhealthy, I secured, by great favor, a cabin in her.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Nothing could excuse the state in which this ship put to sea, not even the panic; for she was not only ill-found in every respect, but was so crowded with passengers, that it was not until it was ascertained that there was scarcely standing-room for those on board that she tripped her anchor.</P>
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010.sgm:<P>I had secured a dog-hole of a cabin, and was no sooner on board than my wife, worn out by fatigue and anxiety, was attaCked by violent fever.  There Were two young doctors on board, but both were attacked shortly after we started.  Then the epidemic (an aggravated intermittent fever) broke out among the passengers, who crowded in the hold as thick as blacks in a slaver-gave way to fear, and could not be moved from the lower deck, and so lay weltering in their filth.</P>
010.sgm:<P>During this time, I could get no medicine or attendance, and my wife was in the last stage of prostration.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The epidemic raged, and from the scuttle-hole of our small cabin we could hear the splash of the bodies as they were tossed overboard with very little ceremony.  There was little to eat on board but ham and biscuit, and it was hard work to get enough of that. On the fifth day out, there sprang up a gale, a heavy one too, for all it was the Pacific Ocean.  Our over-laden screw steamer could make but five or six knots at the best of times, but now she could make no headway against the storm, and she pitched so heavily in the long seas with which we were met, that she sprung a leak and made water fast.</P>
010.sgm:<P>When we commenced to work the pumps they were found to be useless, for the coal had started and the pumps became choked.  This new danger drove the epidemic out of the passengers' heads, and they at once proceeded to throw overboard the cargo (and with it my luggage), and then they baled by means of tubs and buckets.</P>
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010.sgm:<P>For two days and nights we were in suspense as gang relieved gang at the buckets, and the old "screw" pitched heavily in the trough of the sea.  All were black and filthy with the coal dust, which now mixed with the water in the hold, and as they howled and shouted over the work, these fellows looked like devils.  They worked bravely though and coolly, and when the carpenter hallooed from the hold, "Hurrah, lads, it's gaining on us;" there was no winching on the part of those who worked, but a more steady application to the bucket ropes and falls.  Then the gale broke, and as the ship became easier, the leak gave way before the exertions of the coal-begrimed passengers; we steamed into Acapulco, still baling out the black water from the hold, and felt ourselves safe, at least, from shipwreck.  A favorable change had taken place in my wife's health, and I determined on remaining at Acapulco until I could procure a passage in some safer and more commodious vessel.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I forbear to mention the name of this steamer, as the captain of her was a good sailor, and behaved nobly, and it was no fault of his that the agents at Panama had so cruelly risked the lives of so many people. The British consul at Acapulco was kind enough to interest himself in our behalf, and through his influence we procured a large room in the house of a Mexican family of note.  With the exception of a few chairs there was no furniture in this room, but it was clean and well ventilated, and "looked out" upon a court-yard of fragrant orange trees which were now heavily laden with fruit.</P>
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010.sgm:<P>Nor have the natives of AcapulCo much need of furniture, for they seldom live in their houses, preferring to hang their hammocks in the porch, where they swing lazily to and fro, and enjoy the cool breeze. The principal apartment is used occasionally as a reception room, but it is not considered requisite to employ more decoration on this than other parts of the house, which is a lamentable proof of the ignorance which exists here of the usages of polite society in those countries of which the inhabitants do not consider what is good enough for themselves good enough for their visitors.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The custom-house officers of Acapulco were very suspicious, and such of my baggage as had not been thrown overboard was subjected to a very severe scrutiny.  There is a heavy duty on the exportation of specie and playing cards in this part of Mexico, and the manufacture of the latter is monopolized by the Government, and gives rise to a great deal of smuggling.  As many invalids had been landed at Acapulco from the Californian steamers, and had there died, it was not unnatural that an occasional victim should be inclosed in a shell, and be reshipped for interment in another country.  During a season in which Acapulco air rather accelerated death than aided recovery, so large a quantity of "remains" were hermetically sealed and addressed to distant friends, that the commandant became suspicious, and insisted one day on opening a coffin.  No corpse was there, but in its place was the devil; that is to say, as far as a good cargo of playing cards and doubloons can represent that functionary!  Since then the dead man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>There had been an earthquake at Acapulco immediately before our arrival, and the best proof of the severity of the shock was in the fact that numerous adobe buildings were lying crest-fallen on all sides. A Spanish mud-built house has a strong constitution, and is built with a view to earthquakes; but, like us poor mortals, it is built of dirt, and must crumble to dirt again, as the Fates direct.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The mosquitoes at Acapulco were as numerous as any I remember to have seen; and, in certain constitutions, every bite produced a sore, which was aggravated by the climate.  We are accustomed to look jocularly on the attacks of these, or any other hungry insects; but to an invalid their bites are often productive of most serious consequences.</P>
010.sgm:<P>I was enabled at last to secure a passage in a large steamer, which touched at Acapulco on her voyage to San Francisco.  She was a magnificent boat, but, having eight hundred passengers on board, it was with difficulty we could procure accommodation.  We secured, however, a couple of sofas in the main saloon, and, two bags of bones as we were, we managed to find either sofa much too big for us.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Asiatic cholera broke out on the day we left Acapulco, and I began to think that we brought ill luck with our presence.  It was sad to hear the groans of the dying passengers in the cabins right and left, but perhaps less so to us than to others, for we had seen so much sickness on our voyage that we had come to look upon it in a stolid sort of way, and were free <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>I would gladly have been spared this record of a very miserable voyage, and yet without it my narrative would have been incomplete, as presenting but one side of the picture.  At the same time I can assure the reader that I have not described one half its horrors.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As we glide swiftly down the stream one day without a care, so, on the next perhaps, with the pole to our breast, we must sturdily stem the rushing current to arrive at our goal with a fainting frame and panting heart, if God so wills; or otherwise, with broken oar and shattered bark, meet our destruction in the cruel eddies of the swollen river.</P>
010.sgm:<P>During my absence the State of California had progressed in the seven-leagued-boots manner which had characterized it from the first.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The vast blocks of brick houses that had risen on every side in San Francisco looked so very new and red that, the streets being filled with empty packing-cases, it seemed as if the city had been sent out piecemeal, packed in shavings, and put together like a box of toys.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Let us take one final glimpse at this colony of six years' growth.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The wharves of the city still grow, and the clipper ships appear to grow proportionately; each "Flying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Theatres have sprung up like mushrooms, and actors are so plentiful and good that I think of the days of the little "Dramatic" and Mr. Warren's "last appearance but one" in fear and trembling, lest any one should recognize that individual in me.  Concerts and Balls, Fancy fairs and Picnics !--A planked road that leads to a sweet nook in the country, where, in spring time, the hills are bright with wild flowers, and the air fragrant with their odor.--A planked road that leads to the wild and rugged cliffs outside the bay, where the rollers break in one continued foam, as they lash themselves angrily against the massive wall that dares to check their course; and where, in the midst of fog and mist and the spray of struggling waters, sea lions live on lonely rocks, barking joyfully as the heavy surge sweeps over their oily backs. --A pleasant road that leads to a quiet lake, where you may dine at the hotel and enjoy, as it may suit you, the fragrance of the flowers, or the invigorating salt sea-air.--Horses and carriages; country villas and country inns; libraries and debating societies; ladies in plenty, children in plenty, and pleasant society, are here.--Steamers running to the Sandwich Islands, steamers running to China, steamers running to Panama and Australia, are here.--There are electric telegraphs throughout the country, and soon they say there will be a railroad that will connect San Francisco with the Atlantic States of America.</P>
010.sgm:<P>There is grain enough sown for the consumption <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>There are foundries, and steam flour-mills, shipyards, and docks.</P>
010.sgm:<P>And in the mines--where shall I stop if I begin to tell of the towns and villages that have sprung up there, of the bridges and roads, the aqueducts and tunnels, that meet one on every side?</P>
010.sgm:<P>And not least, .the Press has taken a firm tone, and devotes itself to the eradication of existing evils.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Again I am leaving San Francisco on a bright Sunday morning.  As we glide past the hills, the sound of bells from twenty churches is borne to us over the calm bay; we can see artisans strolling in groups with their families, and schools of children on their way to church, who merrily wave us an adieu.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Soon the bells are heard no more, and now having passed the Heads, we meet the fat fog which the sun has turned out of the bay.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As we plunge boldly into this, we say farewell to California.</P>
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010.sgm:<HEAD>APPENDIX.<LB>Extracts from a work by Dr. J. B. TRASK (U. S.), on the Geology of California.<LB>SOILS OF THE VALLEY SANTA CLARA AND SHORES OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY.</HEAD>
010.sgm:<P>The soils on the Bay San Francisco differ much on its eastern and western sides; both borders of the bay present the tertiary series, but both do not present the trapean rocks to the same degree of development this, then, of course, will cause a distinctive and marked difference in the productive capabilities of either shore.  It will be found in all the soils which have been derived in whole, or in part, from rocks more recent than the tertiary group, that a more extensive and varied adaptation to agricultural purposes will be present; this will be particularly manifest in those sections where the tertiaries, containing organic remains, enter somewhat largely into the components of the soil produced from such sources.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Under a proper course of treatment these lands will be made available for the purpose of the agriculturist, and our already large domain of arable lands thus much increased. The situation of these lands in the interior is such that they may be easily reclaimed should they ever fall within the jurisdiction of the State, which undoubtedly they will, under the law regulating "saline lands."  In the counties of San Francisco, Santa Clara, and Alameda, the wet land that may be made available by drainage is about seventy square miles, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>384</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Most of the valley sections of this range of country is arable land, and that which is not can easily be made so when required; the agents for bringing this about being found in the adjoining hills to the east.  The character of the soil and climate adapts it to all the productions of temperate climates, and where local position modifies the climate of any section, it is found capable of producing plants of the tropical latitudes.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The extreme southeastern part of this valley would be adapted to the growth of foreign fruits and other products, but it must be beyond the influence of the cold sea-wind that passes inland across the range of lower hills which divides the Salinas, Pajaro, and Santa Clara valleys, the effect of which would be to blight the fruit, though the plant or tree might continue to thrive.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The low hills that flank the east side of the valley contain all the elements required for the culture of tropical plants and fruits; the climate and soil will be found adapted, and the only agent that appears in the least to be wanting is water sufficient to supply the demands of those plants. From the appearance of small lagoons and rivulets at different elevations it is presumable that a sufficient quantity of this agent may be found a short distance below the surface.</P>
010.sgm:<P>As a general rule the mountains lying upon the east border of the valley Santa Clara are covered with a soil superior to that of the plains, and of much greater depth.  I have measured the depth of these soils in many places, and where it is well developed have found it varying from four to eleven feet for miles continuous: its extreme fertility produces heavy crops of the native grains and grasses, which annually contribute to its increase by their decomposition.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Although these lands are situated within the reach of the sea breeze from the bay of San Francisco, they are protected from its cold by the slope of the hills and the modifications of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:its temperature acquired in its passage down the bay before reaching the northern portion of the valley.  So much is the temperature increased that au addition of ten degrees is often acquired in its transit from San Francisco to the head of the valley, a distance little rising fifty miles.  This increase of temperature in the air is accompanied with an increase in its capacity for moisture, hence it is usual to find a slight aqueous haze, which results from the condensation of its moisture, hanging about this entire range of hills during the summer months, and is usually seen early in the morning.<LB>THE STRUCTURE OF THE VALLEY OF SACRAMENTO AND SAN JOAQUIN.</P>
010.sgm:<P>These valleys form a "single geographical formation," stretching from the terminal spurs of the Cascade Mountains at the north to the junction of the Sierra Nevada with the southern terminus of the Monte Diablo range with the thirty-fourth parallel of north latitude.  The length of the valley is about three hundred and eighty miles in length on an air line, with a breadth of fifty miles at its widest point.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The general appearance of the valley is that of an extended plain composed of alluvium, and this opinion would obtain in the mind of any person whose line of travel would lead him over the lower terraces of the plain, or what is denominated its bottom lands.  It is only by making a transverse section of this plain that we should be able to arrive at any correct conclusions of its structure and peculiarities of its formation; by pursuing this course, very distinctive and marked features are observable of different periods of elevation to which this portion of the country has been subjected subsequent to its emergence above the level of the sea.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The character of the soil in many parts of this valley will render it of little importance as an agricultural district unless <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>Experience has demonstrated the almost certainty of obtaining water, and in sufficient quantities, for agricultural and other purposes, in all valleys resting upon sedimentary formations, and having a basin-shaped structure, and where the different beds have a degree of uniformity or regularity in their position, and are of a texture that will admit the free percolation of water through the superior beds, and sufficiently firm to prevent its escape in those below.</P>
010.sgm:<P>These conditions are all fulfilled in the basin of the Sacramento; and from the united testimony of different observers, we have ample evidence that the sedimentary formations of one side are the same as those upon the other, with the exception, perhaps, of the conglomerate.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The report, after classifying the rocks of the coast, mountains, etc., goes on to describe their order and more recent volcanic rocks.  In relation to the discovery of coal, the author says</P>
010.sgm:<P>From a careful examination of this part of the country, with this object in view, I feel no hesitation in saying that coal will not be found in any part of the coast mountains south of the thirty-fifth parallel of north latitude; what there may be north of this point, I know nothing, having never visited it.</P>
010.sgm:<P>It is not unfrequent, in passing over the country, to hear of beds of mineral coal; during the past season I have visited four such localities, and, as was anticipated, each of them proved to be merely small beds of lignite, and two of them hardly deserving that name.  One of these deposits proved to be but a bed of leaves, having a thickness of about three inches, resting upon a tertiary sandstone containing marine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
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010.sgm:<P>The report of coal veins in the Coast Mountains must be received with many grains of allowance, and, at the best, none but tertiary deposits will be found, and these, even should they exist, would be capable of supplying but a limited demand, and that usually of an inferior quality.<ANCHOR ID="na-1">*</ANCHOR>
010.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-1">Extensive fields of good serviceable coal have been discovered in Southern Oregon.--AUTHOR.</NOTE>
010.sgm:<P>MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE COAST MOUNTAINS.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The minerals of these mountains are widely dispersed throughout their entire extent; they consist principally of copper, iron, lead, silver, gold, nickel, and antimony, with agates, chalcedony, and many others, too numerous to mention here.</P>
010.sgm:<P>SILVER.--In the county of Monterey this metal occurs in the form of argentiferous galena (or lead and silver), and this mineral is found in the primitive and transition limestone abounding in this section; it is found in small veins and disseminated; the range in which it occurs extends from the Gabilan peak to the Chapedero on the south, a distance of twelve miles inclusive.</P>
010.sgm:<P>IRON.--This metal is found in almost every variety of form, from one end of the Coast Mountains to the other; the prevailing mineral, however, is the peroxide and protoxide of this metal; the latter is often found in the form of hydrate, and when occurring in proximity to serpentine rocks, often found to be more or less auriferous.  This mineral is largely developed in some parts of the auriferous district of Mariposa County and forms one of the most valuable receptacles of gold among the gold bearing rocks of that section.</P>
010.sgm:<P>SULPHATE OF IRON.--This article, known in commerce under the name of "copperas," is found native in large (quantities near the town of Santa Cruz.  Its principle had occurred a short distance west of the house of Mr. Medor, in a gulch running from the mountains through the low hills to the coast.  I followed the course of the ravine from where it enters the high hill near the crossing of the road northwest of the town to near the sea.  The average depth of its banks varies from fifteen to thirty feet, its length from the hill to the coast being about two miles.</P>
010.sgm:<P>MAGNETIC IRON.--At the distance of two miles northwest of the above locality, an extensive bed of magnetic iron occurs, running down to the coast, at which point it crops out and exhibits a depth of several feet.</P>
010.sgm:<P>GYPSUM.--of lime is reported to abound in the northern part of Santa Cruz, and in the vicinity of the Palo de los Yeska, some six miles from the mission.  It was frequently spoken of by the inhabitants of this place, but I was unable to learn its precise locality.</P>
010.sgm:<P>CINNIBAR is also reported to exist in this locality.</P>
010.sgm:<P>NICKEL.--The ores of this metal are found from Contra Costa on the north, to the utmost southern limit reached in the Coast Mountains.  It occurs in the primitive rock, associated with chronic iron in almost every case where the latter may be obtained.  It appeal's as a bright green mineral on the fractured surface of the other ores, and is known in technical language as "nickel green."  The scarcity of this metal renders the discovery of its ores in this country an object of some importance, and its wide distribution leads to the belief that it exists inn sufficient quantities to warrant investment for its extraction from other ores, at no distant day.  It is extensively used in the manufacture of German silver for wares and household utensils.</P>
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010.sgm:<P>GOLD.--This metal has been found in the Coast Mountains, from the county San Francisco on the north to Luis Obispo on the south.  The slates and serpentine formations which have been previously noticed in this report, are found to be receptacles of gold here as in the Sierra Nevada; the rocks are extensive in the Coast Mountains, often comprising an entire ridge for miles; they are usually flanked by the granite. During the past summer, the placers in the county Santa Cruz were much worked; the gold found there was principally on the San Lorenzo and its tributaries; it was fine, and much resembled that found in the Coyote Hill, near Nevada; under the glass it had all the appearance of having suffered but little from attrition by water, the surface of the grains being rough, as though just detached from their original matrix.  The slates and serpentine rocks occur on both sides of this creek, with small veil's of quartz running through them; and, from what we know of auriferous districts of this and other countries, the presumption is that gold <HI REND="italics">in situ</HI>
010.sgm:<P>On the upper portions of the Carmello, in the county of Monterey, gold is also found, in the immediate vicinity of the rancho Tulecita.  Farther to the southeast, near the head waters of the creek, it is also found on the tributaries of the main stream that flow from the western ridge of these mountains.  On the Francisquito, a tributary of the Carmello, coming from the southwest, and twelve miles from the coast, it is also found near the house of Barondo.  Three or four Mexicans were working with the battea at the time I passed that ranche.  The serpentine rocks are largely developed on the east flanks of the granite ridges, and from their course they may be considered as forming the northern part of a series which occurs at the Mission Sail Antonio, fifty miles south.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The district of country in the Coast Mountains in which the auriferous deposits are now known to occur, is about eighty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>390</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>ANTIMONY.--The common sulphuret of this metal is very abundant in the Monte Diablo range; at Mount Oso it is found in large masses, also at various other points throughout these mountains; it occurs in considerable quantities in some parts of the county of Santa Barbara.  This mineral is deserving of attention, as it often contains a notable quantity of silver, though as yet no specimens which have been found in this country contain a large per centage of this metal.</P>
010.sgm:<P>BITUMEN.--Bituminous springs abound through the Coast Mountains, and in some places is much used in the construction of buildings and walks in front of buildings; for the latter purpose it is admirably adapted in situations where the sun will not have too powerful au effect upon it, as in such cases it is apt to become soft.  In the counties of Santa Clara, Santa Cruz, and Monterey, several of these springs occur, and further south, are found more abundant. Information has been received of an Extensive deposit of bitumen in Contra Costa, some six miles from the shores of the bay, but at what point I have as yet been unable to learn.  This article has been used of late in the manufacture of gas, for illumination, and it possesses some advantages over the common oil or resin gas in general use; a sufficient quantity for the illumination of the country may be easily obtained, and at low rates, when required for this purpose.</P>
010.sgm:<P>PLACER MINING.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The writer enters into a long treatise on this branch of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>391</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>It is now ascertained to a certainty that the placer ranges extend to the east, within tell or fifteen miles of the "summit ridge," so called, of the Sierra Nevada; arid the condition in which it is found at these points is similar in all respects to that in the older or more western sections, with, perhaps, one exception, and that the relative age of both. There are evidences which clearly indicate a deposit of gold older than the diluvial drift of the lower or western diggings (which latter is often confounded with the drift deposits of the tertiary periods in this country), the character of which differs in almost every respect from any other deposit yet observed in this country, except in this particular range.</P>
010.sgm:<P>Its direction has been traced for about seventy miles, and is found to extend through the counties of Butte, the eastern part of Yuba, Sierra Nevada, Placer and El Dorado; it appears to have an average breadth of about four miles, with an elevation of four thousand feet above the sea for the greatest part of its length.</P>
010.sgm:<P>QUARTZ MINING.</P>
010.sgm:<P>After a few preliminary remarks upon the permanency of the gold mines of this State, the author proceeds to ar, elaborate consideration of the geological position which the quartz veins hold to the rocks with which they are connected.  Under the head of "Character and positions of the older veins below the surface," he concludes thus:</P>
010.sgm:<P>From what testimony we have in our possession relative to these veins, it seems but reasonable to conclude that their integrity is perfect, or as nearly so as can be reasonably expected considering the short period which has been employed in developing their true character, and that the confidence which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>392</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>In concluding this part of the report, and in connection with the magnitude and importance of perhaps a somewhat exciting principle in relation to it, I would beg leave to call your attention to a point on which there has heretofore existed much diversity of opinion, which not unfrequently has engendered angry discussion arid belligerent feeling in a large proportion of our mining population.  The experience of the last three years has elucidated the fact most clearly that the two mining interests of this State can not be governed by the same rule of law in all cases, and prove alike advantageous to both; it is therefore suggested whether some method more congenial to this interest may not be adopted, that will favor the occupancy and improvement of the metallic veins of this State, giving at the same time the widest scope and protection to all at present , and those who may wish hereafter to enter upon those pursuits.</P>
010.sgm:<P>The mines of this State are of a character and value which, if placed in a proper position, will invite investment from abroad to an amount little less than twenty millions of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
010.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>393</PRINTPGNO>
010.sgm:<P>Dr. Trask concludes his very able report by briefly reviewing the operations of the following mines, viz.: Lafayette and Helvetia, Gold Kill, Osborne Hill, Wyoming, Gold Tunnel, Illinois, Jones and Davis Mine, Calaveras County; Spring Hill, Amadore Company, Ranchoree, Keystone, and Eureka Mine, Calaveras County, all of which he represents in a prosperous condition.</P>
010.sgm:<P>THE END</P>
021.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-021</TITLE>
021.sgm:<TITLE>Letters of travel in California, in the winter and spring of 1896.  By Loraine Immen: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
021.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
021.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
021.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
021.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
021.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
021.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
021.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
021.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>02-13915</LCCN>
021.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
021.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Not determined</COPYRIGHT>
021.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
021.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P>Letters of Travel in California</P>
021.sgm:<P>In the Winter and Spring of 1896</P>
021.sgm:<P>By Loraine Immen</P>
021.sgm:<P>Published originally in the "Grand Rapids Herald."</P>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Preface or Foreword</HI>
021.sgm:<LB>WITH THE WISH that these random notes of many happy moments spent in California may recall pleasant recollections to those who have visited the Golden State, those who have left us to make their home there and add to the interest for further facts to those who have the journey yet in store for them.</P>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">To my Husband, Frederick Immen,<LB>These Letters are affectionately dedicated</HI>
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021.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Contents</HEAD>
021.sgm:<P>Pasadena, Echo Mountain, Mount Lowe.<LB>San Diego, Cornado, Pacific Beach, La Jolla.<LB>The City of Los Angeles, San Gabriel Mission, Santa Anita, San Bernardeno, Redland, Riverside, Santa Barbara.<LB>Yosemite Valley, Bridal Veil, Yosemite Falls.<LB>Oakland, Santa Clara Valley, San Francisco.<LB>From Oakland to Salt Lake, Manitou, Denver, Grand Rapids.<LB>Welcome Home.</P>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">In Land of Flowers</HI>
021.sgm:<LB>ECHO MOUNTAIN, CAL., March 6, 1896.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"And those who come, both young and old,<LB>Declare the half has not been told."</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Just before leaving home I cut from a Chicago paper the following poem, and I said that if California is all that is pictured in this poem I shall send it back through the Herald to my friends, and after a journey through eight states, twenty-five hundred miles accomplished with as much ease as a journey to Lansing in our own State, we arrived in the sunny land, in San Gabriel valley, in the picturesque town of Pasadena, translated "Crown of the Valley, Entrance to Eden," etc. Four delightful weeks we remained there without a cloudy day, nothing but sunshine, gathered roses, poppies and orange blossoms and other flowers, with which the land around Pasadena is covered, attended the various churches, the Shakespeare club, which is ably presided over by Mrs. Stout, formerly of Niles, Michigan, visited Dr. Thomas, and family in their beautiful home, Mrs. Stuntz (who is a poetess) and Mrs. Margaret C. Graham (author of stories of "The Foot Hills"), celebrated Washington's Birthday by attending a picnic in Miller's canon, where, after an excellent lunch provided by our landlord, Mr. Painter, of the Painter Hotel, resolutions were adopted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:by the guests of the hotel which included Mr. and Mrs. Lamos, Mr. F. Godfrey and daughter of Grand Rapids; Mr. Crane and family from Chicago; the Johnsons of Mars; Seamans and Stones of New York; Morrows from Pennsylvania; McFarlands from Washington, D C., and others from the East; and cheers were given for our worthy host and the day. We climbed to the highest point in the canon, where the water came tumbling down over the rocks, drank of the pure cold draught, cut canes from the bay tree and then drove back over the tortious way to our hotel; watched the rising and setting sun and the moon as it came up over the scarred and wrinkled mountains of the Sierra Madre, feasted upon the luscious oranges so abundant around us, watched the bees gathering the honey from the flowers, so that I can heartily' endorse all that is uttered in the poem I mentioned in the beginning:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"California: vine land and pine land afar by the west,<LB>Wine land and shine land by all blessings blest.<LB>France it is dreams on thy slopes where she lies;<LB>Italy beams from thy languorous skies,<LB>Gleams there and streams on the world's paradise.<LB>Land, which the grand old Sierras o'erfrown,<LB>Stern and eternal as a Titan-built town,<LB>Marred and Jove-scarred and yet not battered down.<LB>Giants they seem of the old fabled races,<LB>Wearing the dream of the Sphinx on their faces,<LB>Sifting its theme from all thought that debases.<LB>Foams o'er thy homes in a deluge the rose,<LB>In thy meadow the wild poppy grows,<LB>Balm from the calm of the summer sea flows.<LB>Oh, now to dwell where the oranges bloom,<LB>Oh, now to smell their enchanting perfume;<LB>Oh, there to go where the oranges shine,<LB>Seen through the green of the trees all a-line,<LB>Gold that is rolled round the honey and wine."</HI>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">SLEIGHRIDE AMONG FLOWERS.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Looking out from my window at the Painter away up the mountain called Echo, one can see a cluster of buildings painted white, Echo Mountain House, annex and Lowe observatory. Friday, March 7, at 2 p. m., we took the electric cars to Altadena (Mr. and Mrs Roy Barnhart's home is at this place), thence up to Rubio canon, one of the most picturesque and beautiful canons in the Sierra Madre mountains, where is taken the great cable incline to the hotel among the mountains.  On this electric cable incline, in the open "white chariot," we were carried up fourteen hundred feet at an average of 59 per cent. and for a portion of its length at one of 62.  At the head of this ascent we saw to the left, the great World's Fair search light, the Mountain House, electric power house and the Lowe observatory. Immediately upon our arrival, after securing rooms, we went to the white dome of the Lowe observatory, where We were entertained and instructed by Dr Lewis Swift, the noted comet seeker, who gives his time to visitors, showing his instruments and explaining their workings. We then took a walk, following a trail up the mountains, far up, until the setting sun warned us to return. After dinner we watched the search light flash over the cities of Pasadena and Los Angeles, whose electric lights, like stars, contrasted strangely with the world over our heads, which an hour later was shown to us through Professor Swift's superb sixteen-inch refracting telescope. Jupiter and suns were admirably seen and the milky way with its I dare not say how many planets, no one has yet been able to count them. An evening with Music and Readings in honor of Professor Lowe, (who was at the hotel that evening his magnificent home is on Orange Grove avenue, Pasadena), and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">A RIDE UP THE MOUNTAIN</HI>
021.sgm:<P>The next morning a party from Pasadena, Professor Lowe, wife and son, myself and husband, began the upper mountain ride from the Echo Mountain House to Mount Lowe by an electric railway that clings to the mountain along a narrow thread of pathway, doubling or curving over 150 times in its four miles route, crossing canon after canon, springing out and around the circular bridge anchored out in space by giant supports. Faintly can words or picture suggest the grandeur or beauty of the canons riving the mountains to their base; here crowned by giant forests, there dully green with chapparal, or thrusting their solid granite into full view. Alpine tavern. 5,000 feet above the sea level, is at the end of the track. At this point we took a four-horse sleigh to the summit of Mount Lowe, 6,000 feet above the sea. The snow was from three to five feet deep, and yet from out the snow the mountain laurel in full bloom was peeping and the manzanitas were in leaf and bloom. The snow had fallen two days before. The sun shone brightly and our thick wrappings that we took with us were unnecessary. On this summit the view opens up across the great Mojave Desert and sweeps along the coast from beyond Santa Barbara on the north down into Mexico to the south and 200 miles out at sea-bringing within one's vision a scope of over 400 miles, in diameter. Switzerland has her Rigi. New England, Mount Washington, Colorado, Pike's Peak and California, Mount Lowe, reached by the grandest of all mountain railroads, Mount Lowe railway. It was a lofty purpose that prompted Professor T. S. C. Lowe to make a retreat where those who vibrate to his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P>LORAINE IMMEN.</P>
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021.sgm:<illus entity="a021-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CARONADO HOTEL, SAN DIEGO.</P>
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021.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">San Diego</HI>
021.sgm:<P>GEM OF THE PACIFIC,<LB>LA JOLLA, SAN DIEGO AND CORONADO BEACH, Cal., March 28, 1896.</P>
021.sgm:<P>Moonlight, white foam, where waves beat upon the shore --house one blaze of light, music-- people from frozen North, over the sea, ball-room, dancers, America's fairest daughters!  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"How many hearts will cherish sweet memories of thee, <LB>Hotel del Coronado, fair palace by the sea!"</HI>
021.sgm:<P>In 1542 what is now California was discovered at San Diego by Cabrillo, a Portuguese navigator sailing under the Spanish flag. He named the spot San Miguel and sailed north. Fifty-four years after- wards Sebastian Viscanio renamed the harbor San Diego (St. James). At this time Indians alone inhabited the land. Another long blank and then came the mission fathers, whose noble and faithful work can still he seen in other parts of California; but in Old Town San Diego was planted the first mission. Time forbids a description of the missions the fathers established, but, in brief, their work was to convert the savages of California into makers of brick, tillers of the soil and carriers of Water, and though they were not the material with which to form a civilized nation, their lives were made much better.</P>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">MANY SHARP ENCOUNTERS.</HI>
021.sgm: Later came sharp encounters at Old Town, in which Fremont, Bidwell and Kit Carson took part. Although it is 353 years ago since the first discovery of this part of our country, and though it is the oldest municipality in the State, it was not until 1867 that the city of San Diego was settled, a City on the bay of the same name, with a $150,000 courthouse, public library Containing 12,000 volumes, twenty churches and thirty church organizations, five kindergartens, forty-five miles of graded streets, forty-four miles of street railways, electric car system, four daily newspapers, a $100,000 opera house, five banks and the largest hotel in the world at Coronado, which brings me back to the beginning of my story. Coronado, with "its towers and turrets" reaching up into the blue ether, gables here, orioles there and flowers everywhere! The grounds cover twenty acres, containing rare flowers and pine, palm and pepper trees. The dining room has a floor area of 10,000 square feet; its ends are oval, and its ceiling is thirty-three feet high, unsupported by a single pillar; the hotel is lighted by 25,000 arc lights; the quadrangular court is a tropical garden of one and a half acres; the ball-room is circular, with an area of 11,000 feet, with its timber roof open to the lofty observatory. All these are facts, the whole hotel covering five acres. We climbed to the observatory, we tasted of luscious viands in its dining room and attended the ball, where we saw the merry dancers go round; we wrote home letters to our friends in one of its spacious parlors, and lastly, we wandered on the sea-beat shore, and some of us had a plunge in the grand old ocean, by the side of which the hotel lies. Of the beauties, views around it, etc., one is Point Loma, with its picturesque old lighthouse, the highest in the world. The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P>Of the city of San Diego, let Mrs. Rose Hartwick Thorpe (who has a home not far from it called "Rosemere," and who has won many hearts in the Golden State by her poems, which she still continues to write), sing to you of it:</P>
021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">SAN DIEGO.</HI>
021.sgm:<LB><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Low swaying pepper boughs; blooms of magnolia;<LB>Summer and sunshine and roses galore;<LB>Song of the mocking bird,<LB>Morning and evening heard;<LB>Murmuring waves breaking white on the shore.<LB>Fogs marching up from the breast of the Ocean;<LB>Languorous moons sailing into the west;<LB>Fruitage of tree and vine,<LB>All the year summer time;<LB>Harbor of safety and haven of rest.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>It has a climate found nowhere else, for the United States records at San Diego show that in ten years there were but 120 days in which the mercury passed 80 degrees, and but six days in which the mercury fell below 35 degrees. Of its surroundings, the cereal belt and the mountain region, though but a small acreage is yet planted to wheat and corn, they will in future be one of the paying crops of this locality; the chief products are wheat, barley, oats, corn, potatoes and vegetables of all kinds; figs, walnuts, grapes, melons, nectarines, peaches, prunes, apricots, pears, plums, apples, cherries, olives and currants are raised here. Can you ask for more? We've just had a feast of delicious strawberries fresh from the vines. Travelers who have visited Palestine remark that the fig, olive and grape <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P>Foremost among the citrus localities is Chulu Vista, a 5,000-acre tract, over 2,500 acres of which are in orchard. There are upwards of 3,000,000 fruit trees in the country, of which 300,000 are orange and 400,000 lemon; the latter raised in this country have no superiors.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A tribute we bring to the `apple of gold'<LB>And tributes of praise to the fruit of the vine,<LB>With clusters abundant as fables of old,<LB>Peach, apricot, pear, plum, olive and lime;<LB>Crown princes, each one, that respond to our call,<LB>But Lemon, King Lemon, is monarch of all."<LB>The subjects of Olive fought long for his crown,<LB>And thousands to Orange have bended the knee;<LB>Long years hath Old Grape held the place of renown,<LB>Long years reigned as king in this land by the sea;<LB>But Lemon arose in his might at our call,<LB>Now this sturdy monarch is king of them all."--R. T.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Mrs. Thorpe writes from personal knowledge, for at Rosemere we walked through her lemon grove, as well as orange grove, where Mr. Thorpe showed us quantities of fine lemons being cured for the Eastern market.</P>
021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">GAME IS PLENTIFUL</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Over a hundred varieties of food fish are caught in the bay, and in the ocean outside barracuda, albacore, sea trout, herring, whitefish, deep-water sole, etc Rabbits, quail, and occasionally an "antlered monarch of the waste" and mountain lion fall victims to the prowess of some hunter who has entered the forest and surprised them in their native home, while wild duck and water fowl are abundant in the lagoons and upon the bay.</P>
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021.sgm:<P>The public buildings, churches, etc., and homes of San Diego show taste and beauty in architecture, and there are no better school facilities or thorough instruction in the public schools than in San Diego city and county, and as they have no storms which would make it unsafe for a child to go one, two or even three miles to school in the mountain region in the depth of winter, there is no part of the county where children are debarred from school privileges.</P>
021.sgm:<P>Just a word in regard to the soil. There are thousands of acres in the mountain valleys where pure cold water may be obtained but a few feet from the surface-so close that the surface never becomes too dry to produce good crops without irrigation. The mean annual rainfall is from ten to thirty-four inches. The two large irrigating systems are the Flume and Sweetwater. The latter dam is one of the triumphs of modern engineering, and one of the largest in the world. It has a capacity to irrigate 50,000 acres of land, and with its distributing system, cost a million dollars. After looking the matter carefully over, I know of no place in Southern California whose future possibilities are so great as San Diego and vicinity; and Eugene Allen and family, I believe, have chosen wisely their permanent home, where we attended a reception given in our honor to meet the members of the San Diego club, and where we listened to a fine musical program rendered by Mrs. Allen on the piano and her daughters, Loraine and Laura, on the violin.</P>
021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">LA JOLLA.</HI>
021.sgm: <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The land's-end here of rugged mould<LB>Fronts grim and grand the tossing sea;<LB>The rock-strewn ledges, fold on fold,<LB>Withstand the water's battery;<LB>The caverns where the waves make moan<LB>Are spiked with columns carved from stone."</HI>
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021.sgm:<illus entity="a021-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LA JOLLA.</P>
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021.sgm:<P>A day spent at this "Gem of the Pacific" completed, in an attractive manner, our stay in Southern California. The scenery at La Jolla is such that one can find something new and pleasing to mind and eye. The Wearing away of the cliffs under the constant action of air and water has formed a coast line of fantastic shapes and grotesque figures, not unlike those found in the "Garden of the Gods," in Colorado. There are soft, sandy beaches where the breakers roll; the lovely California sea moss and ferns and the beautiful abalone shells are found here.</P>
021.sgm:<P>Providence has been very kind to us from the moment we left home, raising up kind friends wherever we have been. In fact, our journey since the last week in January has been one round of pleasant surprises. Every day brings some new scene of nature to our view, and our days are full indeed. We have had a glimpse into Old Mexico, written letters from the town of Ti Juana, Mexico, talked to the Indian girls at Old Mission and heard them sing their songs; examined the adobe home where Ramona was married; tasted of the olives from trees at Old Mission 125 years old; visited the celebrated Kimball Ranch; heard good sermons at two of the churches, and enjoyed the ride through the park, a portion of which is being cultivated by a woman, Miss Sessions. She takes the land under agreement of planting so many trees a year. Most of the ground she has is used for the cultivation of roses, and her rose garden is the admiration of the citizens, as well as strangers. Gen. Grant's son has a fine residence upon one of the heights, and around his are many other beautiful homes. Later I hope to Write you of the women's clubs of California, but prefer to wait until I have visited the clubs in the cities of Northern California before so doing.</P>
021.sgm:<P>LORAINE IMMEN.</P>
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021.sgm:<illus entity="a021-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RAMONA'S HOME AT SAN DIEGO.</P>
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021.sgm:<DIV><P><HI REND="bold">The City of Los Angeles</HI>
021.sgm:<LB>SAN GABRIEL MISSION, SANTA ANITA, SAN BERNARDINO,<LB>REDLANDS, RIVERSIDE, SANTA BARBARA.</P>
021.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA, California.<LB>Wednesday morning, March 31, with a hasty good-bye to our friends and we were speeding our way back to Los Angeles.</P>
021.sgm:<P>Of the 4,000 square miles of territory of Los Angeles county four-fifths is capable of cultivation and ships more oranges than any other county. Its chief city is located at the base of the Sierra Madre foothills and its city limits cover thirty-six square miles of hill, valley and plain, with a population of 65,000. A hurried visit to its East and West Lake parks, elegant buildings, one owned by T. Stimson, formerly of Michigan, a word with our kind Grand Rapids friends, Mr. and Mrs. Speares and Mr. and Mrs. Jamison (Abbe Norton), who are very pleasantly situated, a call upon C. F. Lummis, editor of "The Land of Sunshine," an afternoon at the Woman's Friday Morning club, Mrs. Osgood President, a ride down to Redondo beach, a Sunday service at Park Congregational church, where, upon entering, we saw, for a moment, nothing but Grand Rapids, Grand Rapids! Reason was the Grand Rapids Chair Co. had furnished the seating for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:said church. We listened to a good sermon, and fine organ music from their grand new organ, furnished by a Detroit firm; attended a concert in Simpson's Tabernacle, by A. Schott; participated in the service at the New Presbyterian Church, just completed; visited upon several occasions the Chamber of Commerce. the public library with over 30,000 selected volumes, spent a day at Lucky Baldwin's ranch, Santa Anita, 56,000 acres, which is like a beautiful park, planted with live oaks, orange groves, and where are stables of fleet racers, the names of which were glibly told us by one of the hired men, that spoke well for his memory at least. I should not have been any wiser had he made mistakes; but certainly he had many names at his command. We returned by way of San Gabriel, with its old adobe mission church, talked with its dweller, the priest, in the rooms adjoining the church; and recalled the fact that it was at this spot that the first settlement in the valley was made and the first orange trees were planted. One day we took the train around "the kite-shaped track," stopping at San Bernandino, where lives Lenora Harrison Drew (formerly of Grand Rapids). At Redlands we engaged a carriage and, with a party that were soon our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Reymond, of Massachusetts, went up Smiley Hill, a beautiful winter home of an Eastern man, then again took the train to Riverside, population 4,000, where we repeated the ride by carriage with Mr. and Mrs. Greer, of St. Louis, Mo., through Magnolia avenue, a magnificent driveway of seven miles between rows of eucalyptus, pepper, magnolia and palm trees, the avenue lined on both sides with orange groves, orchards of almond, pear, peach, apricot, fig and walnut, in the midst of which are fine mansion homes. Returned to Los Angeles in the evening of the same day, and after inspecting Los Angeles' China Town and the Old Mission Church, we left April 4th for Santa Barbara, passing the ranch where Ramona lived (which can be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:seen from the cars), and arrived in the City of the Sea, Santa Barbara, which sits as the queen on the amphitheater of the Santa Juez range. Here, within a radius of forty miles, is found all that can delight the seeker for health and pleasure, knowledge and profit.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Away in the west, where the sun goes down<LB>To his rest in the summer sea,<LB>At the mountains feet sleeps a beautiful town,<LB>In wonderful shades of green and brown,<LB>That is like no other to me.<LB>There the roses drowsily nod and dip<LB>Their heads in the fragrant breeze,<LB>And through the trees can be seen a strip<LB>Of water blue with a white-sailed ship<LB>Afloat in the open sea.<LB>The mountains with their purple shade<LB>Guard the lovely valley there,<LB>And at night, when the moon begins to fade,<LB>The dulcet notes of a serenade<LB>Ring softly on the slumbrous air.<LB>The tides wash up on the sandy shore<LB>Where the berry brown children play,<LB>And there, where the breakers dash and roar<LB>And the amber seaweed drifts ashore,<LB>All drenched with the Silvery spray<LB>I have stood and gazed on the beautiful town<LB>That sleeps at the mountain's feet,<LB>And the sound of the evening bells came down<LB>From the old white mission above the tower<LB>And the breath of the roses sweet."</HI>
021.sgm:<P>This describes fair Santa Barbara by the sea.</P>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">ROMANTIC AND AMIABLE</HI>
021.sgm:<P>The consensus of mankind has ranked the Pacific Ocean as not only the greatest and the noblest, but the most romantic and amiable ocean; its colors and shores are lovely; it is never flurried; knowing its power, it rolls along in calm reserve.  Such is it at Santa Barbara, where are some of the most exquisite mountain byways, hidden in the ranges of Santa Barbara and Ventura. We drove to see the wonderful mammoth grapevine in a home and grounds at Montecito, followed a mountain trail up, up--away up--among the mountains to the hot sulphur springs, which come out of the rock boiling hot. The following day we attended service at the "Old S. B. Mission," the best preserved on the coast. A Franciscan friar showed us the relic-room, the cemetery where rests the monk who was lately murdered here by an insane man, and then we climbed up the winding stone steps to the bell tower. One of the bells is missing, and thereby hangs the following tale:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Long ago, so runs the ancient story,<LB>Two bells were sent from Spain to that fair clime,<LB>New found, beyond the sea, that to God's glory<LB>And in His house together they might chime.<LB>And to this day one bell is safely swinging<LB>Within its sheltering tower, where, clear and free,<LB>It hallows each day with its mellow ringing;<LB>The other bell -- the mate -- was lost at sea:<LB>And when in gentle chimes the bell is pealing,<LB>The people listen; for they say they hear<LB>An echo from the distant ocean stealing;<LB>It is the lost one's answer, faint, yet clear."</HI>
021.sgm:<P>A pleasant morning walk by the seashore, then up the mountain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P>LORAINE IMMEN.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<illus entity="a021-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GENERAL VIEW OF YOSEMITE VALLEY.</P>
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021.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">At Yosemite Point<LB>A RIDE UP TO THE POINT, 3,220 FEET ABOVE THE VALLEY,<LB>ON MULES.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>YOSEMITE VALLEY, CAL.<LB>April 9th, in company with Rev. and Mrs. James Morrow and daughter Carrie, of Germantown, Penn., we left Santa Barbara for the Valley, arriving at Madera April 10th, engaged a carriage to Raymond and over a carpet of wild flowers, yellow, red, purple and white, with jack rabbits, squirrels, curlews and sand cranes flitting across our roadway, and young owls on the fence posts along the sides of the road, reached Raymond (in time for supper), where we engaged H. Grider, with his fine faithful horses and excellent easy carriage, to carry us to the Valley. That two days' journey I have not the time to describe. Over mountain and valley, in snowstorm and sunshine, we rode through groves of tall pines, resting one night at Mr. Philps' hotel, Summerdale, where we were royally treated to the best the place afforded. At six o'clock p. m. of the second day, as we descended the last mountain, we came in sight of "El Capitan," that monarch of vertical mountains, with its massive fabric of overhanging granite, towering above us 3,300 feet, and two immense faces three-quarters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P>The red letter day of our journey, though, was this blessed Sabbath day, when, at 7:30 a. m., we watched the sun rise at Mirror Lake, where Nature embodies the infinite as well as the finite in one vast, unwritten poem. There is no spot known to man where one mountain 4,200 feet high, Mt. Watkins, another 6,000 feet high, Cloud's Rest, are perfectly reflected upon one small lakelet, Mirror Lake. When I say perfectly, I mean the different shades of the rocky mountains, the green pine trees on their tops and the snow on Cloud's Rest. I gazed long upon it after the rest of the party left, and dropped upon my knees in prayer, with thanks to our Heavenly Father for His goodness in permitting me to see such grand works of His creation, and a petition to bless all mankind; plucked a, few leaves, sang "America," and then walked on, on, up, up, following the Merced River to Vernal Falls, where the river makes a leap over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P>"Put roses in their hair, put precious stones on their breasts; see that they are clothed in purple and scarlet, with other delights: that they also learn to read the gilded heraldry of the sky, and upon the earth be taught not only the labors of it, but the loveliness."</P>
021.sgm:<P>We fitly closed our Sabbath in the valley with a song service in the evening and Monday morning, April 13, at 7:30 a. m., a party of five, two ladies of the number attired in the Nineteenth Century progressive suits for women, accompanied by a guide, started up the zigzag trail on mules and horses for Yosemite Point, 3,220 feet above the valley. Because of my trusty mule, "Jessie," the guide <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P>OAKLAND, CAL.</P>
021.sgm:<P>When we left the valley it was rainy and yet the Bridal Veil flowed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<illus entity="a021-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VENDOME AND LICK OBSERVATORY.</P>
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021.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">California Scenery ever Attracts and Wins<LB>THE SIERRAS AND VALLEYS ARE EQUALLY<LB>ATTRACTIVE OAKLAND, SAN JOSE,<LB>LICK OBSERVATORY, MONTEREY,<LB>PALO ALTO, STANFORD<LB>UNIVERSITY -- SAN FRANCISCO.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>THE CITY OF OAKLAND.<LB>Oakland, a city of 50,000, standing upon a peninsula, is the county seat of Alameda county and contains a large number of public schools, many seminaries and academies, and is the home of Berkley Co]lege and of the California poet, Joaquin Miller. We attended the Congregational church on Sunday, listening to an impressive sermon from the text, "Jesus steadfastly set his face toward Jerusalem." One rainy day Mrs. Briggs and myself took the electric cars and-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Just beyond the marsh's bound<LB>A city 'mongst fair groves we traced;<LB>Here factory tall and cottage small<LB>Each to the picture lent its grace.</HI>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">"Enchanting view! thy charms they woo<LB>To Alameda's fair retreat,<LB>And bid us wait within her gate<LB>Her hidden glories there to greet."</HI>
021.sgm:<P>On our return trip from this charming place (the name being endeared to me because of its being the name of my beloved sister) we had fine views of East Oakland and Oakland proper. Another day we sped our way to-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Fair Berkley! nestling 'neath the hills<LB>Beside a calm and sparkling bay.<LB>"See yonder halls that, tower-crowned.<LB>Arise amid the forest grand;<LB>'Tis California's college ground,<LB>And here her youth of every class<LB>May come and thro' these portals pass.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Wednesday morning:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"From classic halls we turned away<LB>To gaze upon a poet's home;<LB>And "Songs of the Sierras" there<LB>With new, sweet charms fell on the ear;<LB>Those rythmic notes came softer where<LB>The singer's presence was so near.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>We saw the sun rise at Piedmont. The ride to Joaquin Miller's home, the visit with him and his good mother, my afternoon at the Ebell Society and the lovely basket of roses they gave me will be in my articles on "Women's Clubs" and "The People We Met."</P>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">SANTA CLARA VALLEY.</HI>
021.sgm: <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Then all the birds came singing to where the valley smiled, And all the suns came shining by all its peace beguiled;<LB>And from the hidden canyons the brooklets sparkled down<LB>To cheer the future exiles from the city or the town;<LB>And the gray earth loved its flowers as the flowers love the sun,<LB>And the glory of the daytime into even glory run;<LB>And the live oak moves its banners green through all the year unfurled,<LB>And so was Santa Clara vale first given to the world."</HI>
021.sgm:<P>The mountains of California ever attract and win the admiration of the traveler, and we are never tired of reading and hearing about the beauties of the "Sierras;" yet the valleys equally win our attention. A few days ago, we mentioned the charm of San Joaquin Valley, San Bernardino, San Gabriel and Yosemite, and now a word about Santa Clara Valley, which was named for the mission of Santa Clara, after Santa Clara, who was born in Italy, 1193, and for her good works was canonized in 1256.</P>
021.sgm:<P>Santa Clara has an area of less than 1,000,000 acres; of this 250,000 acres are valley--the ancient lake bed, or the alluvial deposits of existing streams. While the general contour of the valley is that of a level plain, it is, in fact, a series of gentle undulations. In the lower plain the soil is black tenacious clay, known as adobe, which is fertile and productive, but requires much care as to the time and manner of cultivating it. In the vicinity of the bay there are many thousands of acres of salt marsh. No effort has been made to reclaim them, but it is predicted that at no distant day these lands will be reclaimed and made productive.</P>
021.sgm:<P>A hundred years ago the mission fathers introduced the grape, which still bears their name. Fruits of all kinds are successfully raised here.</P>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">SAN JOSE'S PUBLIC BUILDINGS.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>San Jose, the county seat and principal city of this valley, where we spent a few days, is situated at the northern end, five miles from the southern arm of San Francisco Bay, and is one of the oldest cities in the State, having been founded in 1777 by Spanish soldiers and their families. It is distinguished for its many imposing public buildings. The city hall, recently erected at a cost of $150,000, is surrounded by a beautiful park. Nearly all the religious denominations have church edifices, many elegant and costly. The Hotel Vendome is a large building in the midst of a beautiful garden. In educational advantages San Jose is justly called the "The Athens of the Pacific." Its public school system rivals that of the Atlantic cities.</P>
021.sgm:<P>There are many handsome residences, surrounded by yards filled with choicest shrubbery, and, oh! the roses! Roses everywhere! It was in this place we found the largest, the diameter of one I saw being six inches, and of a delicate pink. We took the twenty-mile stage ride to Mount Hamilton, 4,443 feet above the sea level, and spent the day at Lick observatory and surroundings. Professor Shaeberle, formerly of Ann Arbor, and others extended every courtesy in showing us the astronomical instruments, library, etc. In the evening we looked through the Lick telescope, thirty-six inches in diameter, greater by six inches than the largest glass heretofore constructed. The appearance of the full moon through one of the smaller telescopes was a revelation to me. The observatory buildings are a marvel of solidity. These gifts to science, by James Lick, of $750,000, enable scientists to give us many facts about the world above us. He is buried at the base of the great dome, the most illustrious mausoleum that the hand of man has constructed. The $100,000 mountain road <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">DEL MONTE AND MONTEREY.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>For thirty miles down the Santa Clara Valley south of San Jose, the Mount Hamilton and Santa Cruz ranges stand guard on either side. On reaching the lower end of the valley an abrupt turn is made to the west, and after passing through Pajaro Canyon the famous watering place, Del Monte, is reached. The hotel is surrounded by what might be justly termed a park of live oaks and pines. The grounds are lively with the color of roses, pansies and ribbon beds throughout the entire year. One can row on the lake and indulge in the multitude of amusements here, lawn tennis, croquet, or study how to get in or out the cypress maze. All tourists take the eighteen-mile drive which takes you through Old Town, cypress groves, around Midway Point, down the shore and past old Carnival Mission. Monterey holds an unique place in the history of California. Viscaino entered Monterey in 1620 and erected a cross. Father Serra landed in 1770 and established a mission here. At this place was issued the first paper printed in the State, and J. C. Fremont hoisted the first American flag in California in 1846. We were shown the monument in memory of Father Serra, the old adobe house and flagstaff connected with scenes of 1846, the old mission, the lighthouse, and finally our driver drew up before an adobe house, in front of which was a rose tree covered with delicate yellow blossoms, Cloth of Gold, and said:  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">STANFORD UNIVERSITY.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Carnegie and Armour in the East have immortalized themselves by their noble and generous acts for others, one providing a fund of accessible knowledge for all, high and low, rich and poor, in a library. Armour has done the same in another way in a university, as has James Lick in California. Later, Leland Stanford laid the foundation for the greatest monument ever built. The pyramids of Egypt excite our wonder. We read of the great monument that one of the orientals, Taj-Mahal, built to his wife, but these dwindle into insignificance in comparison with that built by Leland Stanford in memory of his promising boy, Leland Stanford, Jr., who died March, 1884.  The Leland Stanford University is built upon the Palo Alto estate in Santa Clara Valley. Here is also the Palo Alto stock farm, which has been the home of the celebrated horses, Electioneer, Sunol, Palo Alto, Advertiser and others. We went carefully through the trotting horse department, with its stables, paddocks, kindergarten, and were bewildered and decidedly puzzled at the long list of fathers and mothers, grand and great grandfathers and mothers that were related to some of the horses in the stables that could go-oh, I won't try to tell you, for I might make a mistake as to one-quarter or one-eighth of a second and-what then? I might spoil their "record;" so I'll frankly give it up, by saying, as the boys and girls do, "They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">THE GREAT MUSEUM.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>The museum occupies a ground area of 318x156 feet, containing large collections of Greek, Roman, Egyptian and American antiquities, and one room is devoted to specimens collected by the son mentioned and other of his belongings. We were royally entertained by Mr. and Mrs. O. W. Dunn, in their lovely home, who escorted us through the museum, attended with us the lectures in several of the departments, and drove us through the private grounds of Mrs. Stanford, past the house, roses, lemon groves and orchards, through the Arboretium, and at last to the mausoleum of polished granite, the Stanford tomb, where rest the remains of Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">SAN FRANCISCO.</HI>
021.sgm: <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A score of years, then forth a city came<LB>And cast aside its quaint old Spanish name<LB>For San Francisco, Western Queen!<LB>And, like the saint whose name it proudly boasts,<LB>A friend to all who come within its posts--<LB>This city with a gate of gold."</HI>
021.sgm:<P>My first view of San Francisco was a surprise, because I either never knew or had forgotten that it was "a city set on hills," but so it is, as I viewed it from the bay as we were crossing the ferry. Some of the hills, like Mission Peak and Russian, Telegraph, Rincon and Reservoir Hills, are abrupt and lofty, as we found in taking the cars at the ferry to Sutro Heights, Cliff House and Sutro Baths and Seal Rocks, where we watched with interest the seals in great numbers sunning themselves upon the rocks. We need an American Dickens to tell us of the tale of the "two cities of San Francisco"-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">THE BATH CONSTRUCTION.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>By broad stairways we reach the baths. The length of the baths is 4,995 feet; amount of glass used, 100,000 superficial feet; lumber, 3,500,000 feet, etc., etc. I will not weary you with figures; sight alone can give a comprehensive idea of their construction. A restaurant with capacity for 1,000 people is under this roof. While watching the bathers in the six various tanks we were treated to an historical play by Japanese performers, gorgeously attired in red and gilt costumes, and the music--oh! that noise still rings in my ears; it sounded about like the noise produced from pounding on big iron kettles; we really got more noise than our money's worth and left. Golden Gate Park lies in the western part of the city, reclaimed from the sand dunes, and covers 1,013 acres, being three miles long and one-half mile wide. Its conservatory, deer park, aviary, children's playhouse and artificial lake and waterfall, combined with an excellent museum, were enough to interest us for an entire day. Then, ascending Strawberry Hill, a magnificent panorama is presented from this natural elevation. To the west the Pacific Ocean stretches in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">STORY OF CHINATOWN</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Oh, the story of Chinatown! The half can never be told of that night's visit to the port of San Francisco, from Kenney to Powell, north of California, to Broadway, in all twelve blocks, of what was once an important business part of the city. Population, 20,000.  Joss houses, theaters, restaurants, curio shops, opium and gambling haunts, underground dens of filth and infamy! A resident of Boston visiting in Oakland said to me: "Why do you think of visiting Chinatown by midnight? Your Eastern cities, including New York and Boston, can almost show you a duplicate of what you will see." I replied: "I must see the shades of life as well as the sunshine." I assure you it is a dark picture; but let us draw the curtain upon it, and turn to the beautiful building formerly occupied and built by Mark Hopkins, near Mrs. Stanford's, Mr. Flood's, of mining fame, and other magnificent homes. The lot upon which the building is located is 206x275 feet.</P>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">ENGLISH GOTHIC STYLE.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>The style of house is English gothic. The vestibule is finished in oak, enriched with color and gold. The great hall is 25x60 feet, and extends to the roof, and has a gallery surrounding it at the second floor, having an inlaid pattern of hard wood. Above the gallery are screen walls, paneled and pierced with arched openings into small overhanging balconies. Capping the screen and encircling the hall is a frieze inscribed with the following: "Beauty bideth everywhere, that Reason's child may seek her, and, having found the gem of price, may set it in God's crown." Springing from this frieze is a cove ceiling, on the east and west sides of which are painted symbolical figures of the fine arts, and on the north and south the great masters--M. Angelo, Dante, Durer, Tiziano, Shakespeare and others. All the rooms on the ground floor open into this hall. The dining-room is in the revived English gothic style, known as the Talbert. On the ceiling of the library is carved: "Receive my instructions and not silver, and knowledge rather than choice gold." The rosewood room, music room, salon and maple room, and drawing-room are en suite with library, and extend the full length of the house. The Moorish room is hung with silk texture, woven in patterns taken from the walls of the Alhambra. The guest chamber, state chamber and Louis XIV. room are all finished in woods exquisitely carved. The rooms in the basement, as well as on the very top floor, are finished in mountain mahogany.</P>
021.sgm:<P>Mr. and Mrs. Hopkins' reply to persons, in excise for some expensive work, was: "Well, it will benefit the workmen whether we live to enjoy it or not." They are both dead, and it was given to the University of California for a "Mark Hopkins Institute of Art."</P>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">ROSE SHOW OF FLORAL SOCIETY.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Our last day in San Francisco was spent in visiting the "Thirteenth Semi-Annual Exhibition and Rose Show of the California State Floral Society"--roses, geraniums, pelargoniums, pansies (oh, so large), sweet peas in great variety and color, and large collections of each, contributed by amateurs and professionals. A collection of "historical" flowers of California attracted much attention. Among them was a bunch of roses, "Cloth of Gold," from the rose Sherman planted at Monterey, mentioned in the first part of the book. Standing before a large collection of unnamed carnation seedlings, a member of the committee invited me to choose one that I admired most and to name it. There were mixtures of white and red, even a lavender one, but I selected a bright pink color and said to the lady, as to its name, "This is Shakespeare's birth month; I'll call it Shakespeare carnation," which name was accepted. The single carnation grew in my mother's garden, and all along my "flower life" I have tried to have the carnation have its place, as well as my other favorite, the rose.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A wild pink nestled in a garden bed,<LB>A rich carnation flourished high above her,<LB>One day he chanced to see her pretty head,<LB>And leaned and looked again and learned to love her."<LB></HI>
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021.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">From Oakland to Salt Lake City.<LB>UTAH, A GEM TEEMING WITH FRUIT AND FLOWERS--<LB>A VISIT TO THE TABERNACLE ON<LB>SUNDAY-- THE ARRIVAL AT GRAND RAPIDS.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>At last came the day for our journey homeward, and, after packing the canes from the different California woods, olive, bay, acacia, orange, lemon, date, etc., the Cloisonne vases and Japanese cabinet and table, Chinese slippers, souvenir spoons, Mexican drawn work, etc., etc., in the midst of a fine May Day flower procession at Oakland away we sped to Salt Lake City. On our way we caught a glimpse of the city of Sacramento, and then the snow-clad mountains multiplied, the air grew colder, no flowers on the mountain side, only snow--snow and pine trees way up to the summit, 7,000 feet above sea level, after which we entered the snow sheds, which deprived us of all chance of seeing scenery (if there was any), but night comes on and darkness spreads its mantle over all. Upon awakening at 5 o'clock in the morning, we found ourselves in Nevada, the land of silver and sage brush, mineral springs, salt, borax and sulphur, mountain ranges and rolling plain.  Humboldt river is followed through the greater part of the State. We come to Tecoma (a few houses in the midst of sand and sage brush), and away we go to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:<P>The city and county building, as it is known, is built of Kyune stone, 160x273 feet, at a cost of $1,000,000, and the grounds comprise the entire block of ten acres, and have been tastefully ornamented, laid out and planted. The Pavilion, costing $250,000, is situated on the border of the Great Salt Lake.</P>
021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">NOW A DEAD SEA.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Great Salt Lake, which has lost nineteen-twentieths of its dimensions and yet covers an extent of 2,000 square miles, is indeed a dead sea. We listened to a fine band concert at Fort Douglas, which is located outside the city on a hill, and is said to be one of the well-kept forts in the United States.</P>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"In the Royal Gorge I stand,<LB>With its mountain forms around me,<LB>With infinity behind me and infinity before;<LB>Cliff and chasm on every hand<LB>Peaks and pinnacles surround me;<LB>At my feet the river rushes with its never-ceasing roar."</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Colorado is the apex of North America, the crown of the slopes that rise from Pacific and Atlantic shores, being also the heart of the Rocky Mountain chain, numbering many individual summits that rise to the height of 13,000 feet. Between the ranges lie numerous valleys, diversified by forest, lake and stream. Leaving Salt Lake at night, we know not of the scenery (there was not any to speak of, only vast tracks of sand, they say). We went to Glenwood Springs, where the Grand River issues from canon walls into a mountain-penned valley, just above the confluence of the torrent of Roaring Forks, where we breakfasted. Glenwood Springs, lately the resort of the Utes and home of deer, elk and bear, is in the middle of a park. The largest spring feeds an artificial pool of hot water, tempered by a fountain of cold mountain water placed in the center. After leaving Glenwood, red granite cliffs follow, scenes of grandeur pass before us, and we come to the continental divide, the loftiest railroad pass in America. The Frying Pan shows the way nearly to the summit, 11,000 feet above the sea. Five hundred feet of further climbing, then through a tunnel, and Pacific Slope is passed. By noon we arrive at Leadville, the great mining city (elevation 10,000 feet). On we go through exhilarating air, verdure, streams, waterfalls, red rock sculpture, gorges and mountains, and descend the Ute Pass, by way of tunnels and canons and brooks, to Manitou, whose beauty was ,understood by the Utes, who named it after the "Great Spirit." <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Where the shadow of the mountain<LB>Meets the sunshine of the fountain,</HI>
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021.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Whiter tepees crown our hills,<LB>Sweeter lips now touch our rills;<LB>Under Manitou's bright skies<LB>Fairer faces meet our eyes,<LB>And where crystal waters glide<LB>Happy lovers blush and hide;<LB>Dusky features fade away,<LB>Saxon faces crown to-day."</HI>
021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">AT THE TWELVE SPRINGS.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Of the twelve springs formed there, the Soda and Chalybeate we thoroughly enjoyed, and were benefited and refreshed by their life-giving waters. We rode through the Williams Canon, winding round and round that splendid mountain road to the "Cave of the Winds," walked through "Concert Hall," "Bridal Chamber," heard the music from the "Grand Organ," then away we drove to and through Gen. Palmer's estate, covering 1,300 acres, to a park of 500 acres, whose walls of red sandstone rise to a height of from 300 to 400 feet, "The Garden of the Gods." <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Beneath the rocky peak that hides<LB>In clouds its snow-flecked crest"</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Are found hints of Athens and the Parthenon, pyramids, Karnac and her crumbling columns. After their form the most striking feature is their color--an intense red sandstone. The different forms have received names: "Statue of Liberty," "Bear and Seal," "Lion," etc.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Their shadows linger where we tread,<LB>Untouched by time the garden gleams;<LB>Unflecked the wild flower shines,<LB>And the scarred summit's rifted seams<LB>Are bright with glistening pines."</HI>
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021.sgm:<illus entity="a021-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PIKES PEAK.</P>
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021.sgm:<P>Nine o'clock, May 5, at the mouth of Engleman's Canon, between Manitou and Hiawatha Mountains, in the car of the Cog Wheel Road, we started on our mountain journey to Pikes Peak, the length of the road being 47,992 feet and the grade 844.3 to the mile. The locomotive pushes the car when ascending and precedes it when descending, so that the car, which is not coupled to the engine, can be let down independently. I have no words that can fitly describe that mountain ride.  Some one asked me if the ride up Mount Rigi is grander. I replied, "They cannot be compared, any more than the Rivers Hudson and Rhine." Above the region of the forests we ascend to see the "Lone Fisherman," who has fished (for no one can tell how long) from the top of the wall of the canon. We pass Echo Falls, Minnehaha Falls, Hanging Rock, many Swiss cottages, through Hell's Gate, by Bald and Sheep mountains, and then for two and one-half miles we have a good view of Pikes Peak. Around Windy Point we go, and finally we reach the summit, 14,147 feet, passing through snowdrifts several feet high. What a panorama is spread out before us! Standing on the peak among millions, yes, billions, of rocks varying in size, we see buffalo plains, villages and cities, flowering fields and Cripple Creek in the distance; at our feet Colorado Springs, Manitou, the Garden of the Gods, mountains of New Mexico, the Spanish Peaks, various mines, the sheet of perpetual snow, Sangre de Cristo range, Gray and Long Peaks, Denver and Castle Rock are a few of the mountains, cities, valleys, etc., to be seen. After an hour's stay, dropping into the United States signal station, we returned, feeling thankful that we had been privileged to witness the grandest scenic panorama visible from any accessible point.</P>
021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">TO COLORADO SPRINGS.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>The next morning we took the electric car for Colorado Springs, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:which is closely blocked by the Rockies, and four miles from which you enter Cheyenne Canon, where above the waterfall, on the eastern slope of Cheyenne mountain, was the grave of Helen Hunt Jackson. I understand the people of Colorado Springs deeply regret the removal, as it was her wish to be buried on the mountain side.  A hasty drive through the city, noting its many pretty homes, and then to Denver, passing Palmer Lake.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Serene and sweet and smiling as a bride<LB>Nestles Lake Palmer on the green divide;<LB>The hills around it, the blue sky above,<LB>The summer sunshine bathing it in love."</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Before we know it the "Queen City of the Plains" is visible, and a few moments more and we are riding up and down its beautiful streets, admiring its fine city hall, capitol, business streets, hotels and beautiful homes.  Denver has a population of 135,000, 160 miles of electric cable railway, which last year carried over 30,000,000 passengers.  Colorado has reason to be proud of its capital city, its climate, scenery, silver, gold and iron mines. mountain peaks and passes, and the noble-minded men that believed (and acted according to it) that mother, wife, daughter and sister were equal to themselves in all respects, politically as well as socially  Night comes on and we board the train for Omaha, and in the morning we find ourselves in Nebraska.</P>
021.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">THROUGH ITS VAST PLAINS.</HI>
021.sgm:<P>All day long we rode through its miles and miles of cultivated and barren plains and cattle ranches, with here and there a few trees, and at distances small and large villages.  Omaha is reached, we cross the River Missouri, and are at Council Bluffs.  On we went in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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021.sgm:darkness across the State of Iowa, and our last day's journey was through Illinois, where fine farmhouses and barns and orchards, yes, and well-tilled lands, indicate a well-to-do and thrifty people behind it all. We arrive at the great city of the West, Chicago, and in a few hours more are in Michigan-my Michigan!  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"With face looking full in the face of the sun,<LB>With breath of the pines and the roses new blown,<LB>Our Michigan sits like a queen on the throne.<LB></HI>
021.sgm: <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"We have come from the land where the sun goes down,<LB>Where a continent bends to the kiss of the sea;<LB>Where winters are verdant and summers are brown,<LB>We have basked in its sunshine, but loyal we are<LB>To Michigan, home of our youth's bright star."</HI>
021.sgm:<P>We reach Grand Rapids May 10, after an absence of four months, feeling that though <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"'Mid pleasures and palaces,<LB>(Yes, and mountains and valleys)<LB>Though we may roam,<LB>Be it ever so humble, there's no place like home.<LB>Home, sweet home,"</HI>
021.sgm:<P>Where we are warmly welcomed by many and dear friends.</P>
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021.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">The Welcome</HI>
021.sgm:<P>TELEGRAM HERALD, May 17, 1896.</P>
021.sgm:<P>A very delightful occasion was the hearty welcome home from California tendered Mrs. Loraine Immen, Chairman of the Shakespeare Study Group, Monday, May 11. The members, each bearing a large American beauty rose, with a card of welcome attached, appeared at the door of her pleasant home, and, to complete her surprise, took possession of the music room. After singing "Home, Sweet Home," the members each expressed their welcome by reading the sentiment on their card and placing a rose in a large vase. Mrs. Immen thanked the ladies for their expressions of love and assured them that she was happy to be with them again and to look into their faces once more. She mentioned the many pleasures of her journey, and spoke of her husband's and her own perfect health, and the many pleasant scenes she had witnessed since they had last been together. She laughingly said: "Now I'll pay you back, not in your own coin, but in that found in Chinatown, in San Francisco," and she gave each guest a Chinese coin, and, as the weather was warm, she presented them each with a miniature fan, brought also from Chinatown. The members repeated the program of April 23, including the exquisite music rendered by Mrs. Panting. They brought with them, and secreted in a mysterious way until wanted, a supper of delicacies of various kinds, thus completing and rounding out the surprise in a most delightful way.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"May the Lord fold about you his love and his care<LB>'Till old age is as lovely as California air."</HI>
021.sgm:<HSEP>J. A. R.</P>
022.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-022</TITLE>
022.sgm:<TITLE>Californian pictures in prose and verse.  By Benjamin Parke Avery: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
022.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
022.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
022.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
022.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
022.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
022.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
022.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
022.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-833</LCCN>
022.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
022.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>11561</COPYRIGHT>
022.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<illus entity="a022-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="blockindent">I gaze upon thy wide domain<LB>From mountain unto boundless sea,<LB>And listen to the grand refrain<LB>The pillared forests sing to me.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIAN PICTURES<LB>IN PROSE AND VERSE</P>
022.sgm:<P>BY BENJAMIN PARKE AVERY</P>
022.sgm:<P>NEW YORK<LB>PUBLISHED BY HURD AND HOUGHTON<LB>Cambridge: The Riverside Press <LB>1878</P>
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022.sgm:<P>Copyright, 1877,<LB>BY MARY A. AVERY</P>
022.sgm:<P>RIVERSIDE PRESS, CAMBRIDGE:<LB>STEREOTYPED AND PRINTED<LB>BY H. O. HOUGHTON AND COMPANY.</P>
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022.sgm:<P>TO THE MEMORY OF SAMUEL PUTNAM AVERY, OBIT NEW YORK, 1832.</P>
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022.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>A WORD BEFORE<HSEP>9<LB>NATURE AND ART<HSEP>13<LB>A WILD NOSEGAY<HSEP>18<LB>MOUNTAIN, LAKE, AND VALLEY<HSEP>19<LB>A MEMORY OF THE SIERRA<HSEP>63<LB>UP THE WESTERN SLOPE<HSEP>66<LB>SUNRISE NEAR HENNESS PASS<HSEP>84<LB>ON THE SUMMIT<HSEP>87<LB>EL RIO DE LAS PLUMAS<HSEP>118<LB>HEAD-WATERS OF THE SACRAMENTO<HSEP>121<LB>THE BIRTH OF BEAUTY<HSEP>150<LB>ASCENT OF MOUNT SHASTA<HSEP>152<LB>THE MEADOW LARK<HSEP>191<LB>THE GEYSERS<HSEP>193<LB>GOLDEN GATE PARK<HSEP>236<LB>CITY SCENERY<HSEP>239</P>
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022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>THE FAWN ON CHANGE<HSEP>261<LB>SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS<HSEP>264<LB>AUTOCHTHONES<HSEP>280<LB>THE FIRST PEOPLE<HSEP>282<LB>SONG OF THE VAQUERO<HSEP>311<LB>THE TRINITY DIAMOND<HSEP>314<LB>OLD AND NEW<HSEP>343</P>
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022.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><HSEP>DRAWN BY<HSEP>ENGRAVED BY<HSEP>PAGE<LB>FRONTISPIECE.<LB>(From a Sketch by G. A. FROST)<HSEP>THOMAS MORAN<HSEP>W. H. MORSE.<LB>FOOT-HILLS OF THE COAST RANGE.<LB>(From a Sketch by W. KEITH)<HSEP>THOMAS MORAN<HSEP>J. A. BOGERT<HSEP>24<LB>YOSEMITE FALLS, FROM GLACIER POINT.<LB>(From a Photograph)<HSEP>ALFRED KAPPES<HSEP>F. JUENGLING<HSEP>44<LB>SECTION OF SNOW-SHED.<LB>(From a Photograph)<HSEP>C.A. VANDERHOOF<HSEP>ROBERT VARLEY<HSEP>91<LB>CROWN OF THE SIERRA.<LB>(From a Sketch by W. KEITH)<HSEP>THOMAS MORAN<HSEP>E. BOOKHOUT<HSEP>109<LB>DONNER LAKE.<LB>(From a Photograph)<HSEP>ALFRED KAPPES<HSEP>F. JUENGLING<HSEP>110<LB>MOUNT SHASTA, FROM CASTLE LAKE.<LB>(From a Sketch by H. G. BLOOMER)<HSEP>THOMAS MORAN<HSEP>J. S. HARLEY<HSEP>122<LB>GOLDEN GATE, FROM CONTRA COSTA HILLS.<LB>(From a Sketch by W. KEITH)<HSEP>THOMAS MORAN<HSEP>ROBERT VARLEY<HSEP>192<LB>VALLEY OAKS.<LB>(From a Photograph)<HSEP>ALFRED KAPPES<HSEP>JOHN P. DAVIS<HSEP>198<LB>MOUNT ST. HELENA.<LB>(From a Photograph)<HSEP>ALFRED KAPPES<HSEP>BOOKHOUT BROS<HSEP>202<LB>MOUNT TAMALPAIS.<LB>(From a Sketch by W. KEITH)<HSEP>W. H. GIBSON<HSEP>HORACE BAKER<HSEP>246<LB>MOUNT DIABLO.<LB>(From a Sketch by W. KEITH)<HSEP>W. H. GIBSON<HSEP>F. S. KING<HSEP> 250<LB>LOMA PRIETA.<LB>(From a Sketch by W. KEITH)<HSEP>W. H. GIBSON<HSEP>MEEDER &amp; CHUBB<HSEP>278</P>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A WORD BEFORE.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>THE only aim of the following pages is to present a few word-sketches of Californian scenery-studies from nature, true to local color and form, and barely indicating the salient characteristics of plant and animal life and rocky structure.  Those who love nature for her own sake, and for her relations to the best art, will sympathize with the motive, whatever may be the imperfection, of these sketches.  Some of them originally appeared in the "Overland Monthly," but these have been retouched for this volume.  The closing sketches, under the titles of "The First People" and "The Trinity Diamond," are not entirely descriptive of scenery, but introduce the figures of the Indians and the roving miners, who were once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>It should be stated that descriptions of some of the most remarkable scenery in California--such as Yosemite, the Big Tree groves, and those regions of the high sierra lying in the southern part of the State--are purposely withheld, for the reason that they have been already better described by Prof. J. D. Whitney, Clarence King, and John Muir, have been illustrated and written about by scores of artists and authors, and have so become in a measure hackneyed. It was, besides, the wish of the present writer to describe what was most familiar and recent in his own experience.  So much admiration has been lavished <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIAN  PICTURES.</P>
022.sgm:<P>NATURE AND ART.<LB><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>WHEN Art was young, Pygmalion formed<LB>A marble maid, divinely fair;<LB>Her beauty all his being warmed,<LB>And moved him to enraptured prayer<LB>"Oh, leave her not a senseless stone.<LB>Almighty Jove, enthroned above!<LB>But give her life to bless my own,<LB>Endow her with the soul of love!"<LB>Jove heard, and smiled.  The marble flushed<LB>Like snow-peak at the coming sun:<LB>"Pygmalion"  Lo! she spoke and blushed!<LB>And thus his stainless bride he won.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">And ever since the artist-touch<LB>Has had a quick, Promethean fire,<LB>For all who love their labor much,<LB>Who nobly struggle and aspire.<LB>To such the miracles recur<LB>That only genius works at will,<LB>That seem dead images to stir,<LB>And every source of feeling thrill.<LB>Thus Nature ever, to the heart<LB>That rightly seeks her, answer gives;<LB>In every master-work of Art<LB>A portion of her spirit lives.<LB>The templed pile, the marble shape,<LB>The painted tree, the stream, the sod,<LB>Are only forms her soul to drape--<LB>For "Nature is the art of God!"<LB>The painter, when he spreads his tints,<LB>That only mimic what is real,<LB>If Nature guides him, nobly hints<LB>Her dearest charm, her sweet ideal.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<LB>The rose a richer beauty takes<LB>From hands that she has deftly taught;<LB>The violet sweeter perfume makes<LB>When Art has wedded it to thought.<LB>O Goddess! On thy altar tops<LB>Of awful peaks that touch the blue,<LB>Where every snowy gem that drops<LB>Unmelted lies in stainless hue,<LB>I gaze upon thy wide domain<LB>From mountain unto boundless sea,<LB>And listen to the grand refrain<LB>The pillowed forests sing to thee;<LB>For down below, in circling ranks,<LB>The pines uplift their branching arms;<LB>And farther, on the river banks,<LB>The oaks reveal their milder charms.<LB>And as I leave the dizzy height,<LB>Returning to the valley mead,<LB>Gray rocks with lichens are bedight,<LB>And flowers up-spring of lowly breed.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The happy creatures of the wild<LB>Bound from the thicket on my way--<LB>The mother doe, the fawn her child--<LB>As half in fright and half in play.<LB>By springs where viny tresses cling,<LB>And tuneful gurgles meet the ear,<LB>The feathered people drink and sing,<LB>Or seek the covert in their fear.<LB>But soon the cabin's lazy smoke<LB>I see above the orchard curl;<LB>And, hark! what sound the silence broke?<LB>The jocund laugh of boy and girl!<LB>Around and round, in merry rout,<LB>I see them go, as though to play<LB>Were all of life, and care and doubt<LB>Could never cloud their summer day.<LB>The oriole her pendent nest<LB>Is hanging from the willow bough;<LB>The lark with joy distends his breast,<LB>And warbles to the lowing cow.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Thus Nature everywhere repeats<LB>The beauty and the love she owns;<LB>From hill to sea her rhythmic beat<LB>Is heard in many blending tones.<LB>And Art, her handmaid, catches up<LB>The glory of each sound and sight,<LB>To pour them from her magic cup,<LB>A draught to steep us in delight.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A WILD NOSEGAY.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>SWEET-SCENTED messengers from landscape green,<LB>Thy presence is a blessing in my cot,<LB>A still memento of each sunny spot,<LB>Or shaded, where my wandering feet have been<LB>In search of thee.  The winding, wet ravine,<LB>Luxuriant with golden flowers; the grot<LB>Beneath the live-oak, where small blossoms dot<LB>The mossy rock, and humming-birds are seen<LB>To flash and quiver through the tremulous leaves<LB>Of snowy buckeye; and the mountain steep<LB>Or wooded summit, where sad zephyr grieves<LB>Forever through the branches of the pine;--<LB>All helped to form thee, and thou still dost keep<LB>Their charms before me, which I blend with thine.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MOUNTAIN, LAKE, AND VALLEY.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>IN attempting a general introductory view of the scenography of California, we shall be aided by an outline of its topography.  The materials for this are to be found mainly in the preliminary report upon the geology of California by Prof. J. D. Whitney.  Before the great work conducted by him was begun, hardly fourteen years ago, there was little exact knowledge of the physical structure of the Golden State.  Its broadest features were known in a general way; but some of the most remarkable regions were unexplored, and a mass of interesting details had been only casually observed, if at all.  An adventurous and daring people, engaged in the stimulating search for gold, had revealed the secrets of many places which would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:else be blank spaces on the maps; but the area of a territory larger than New England, New York, and Pennsylvania combined, and embracing two mountain chains surpassing in some  respects the Alps and Appalachians, could not be thoroughly explored and accurately described without concerted effort to that end.  When that effort--temporarily abandoned through a freak of ignorant legislation--shall be resumed and completed, we shall have, in a series of valuable reports even now far advanced, ample material for special studies.  In the mean time, even such a mere sketch as we shall offer of the valley and lake system of California may prove interesting to the general reader.  The topography of California is characterized by a grand simplicity.  Two mountain-chains--the Coast Range and the Sierra Nevada--outline the form of the State; the one extending along the Pacific shore, on its western side; the other, along its eastern border, overlooking the great basin of the middle continent; and both interlocking north and south, inclosing the broad, level valleys of the Sacramento <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:and San Joaquin.  The axial lines of these chains have a northwesterly and southeasterly course. They are clearly distinguished between the thirty-fifth and fortieth parallels--the valleys named, which have a length of nearly three hundred and fifty miles, and a breadth of from forty to eighty miles, separating the two systems completely.  North and south of the limits named, the Coast Range and the Sierra Nevada are topographically one, distinguishable only by geological differences; the former having been uplifted since the cretaceous deposition, and the latter before that epoch.  The Coast Range is inferior in altitude, averaging only from two thousand to six thousand feet above the sea, and having few prominent peaks.  It extends the whole length of the State, say seven hundred miles, and has an aggregate width of forty miles; but it is broken into numerous minor ridges, marked by striking local differences, and separated by an extensive series of long, narrow valleys, which are usually well watered, level, fertile, and lovely.  The Sierra Nevada has an altitude of from four thousand to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:twelve thousand feet, and an average width of eighty or one hundred miles.  It rises from the central valley in solid majesty, reaching by a gradual slope its double crests, which culminate in a nearly straight line of peaks extending a distance of five hundred miles. There is no peak in the Coast Range which rises above eight thousand feet.  The Sierra Nevada has a hundred peaks which rise about thirteen thousand feet, and at least one which soars fifteen thousand feet.  Where the two ranges join at the north (latitude forty degrees, thirty-five minutes), Mount Shasta, which may be taken as a point of connection, attains an elevation of fourteen thousand four hundred and forty feet.  Its snowy summits can be seen from great distances in Oregon, California, and Nevada, and is nearly twice the height of any other mountain in its vicinity.  As the Sierra Nevada extends southward from this point, it gradually increases its general altitude.  For three hundred miles the passes range from four thousand to eight thousand feet above the sea, and the peaks from one thousand to two thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The summits of the Coast Range are only occasionally whitened with snow in the winter.  Those of the Sierra Nevada are covered with it every winter to a great depth, and on some of them it never melts. The Coast Range rises with tolerable abruptness facing the sea, its inner line of ridges sloping gradually to the central valley.  The Sierra Nevada has a gradual ascent on its western side, but an abrupt one on its eastern, the latter being only half as long as the former, since it meets the elevated plateau of Nevada or Utah, four thousand to five thousand feet above the sea.  The Coast Range is broken near its centre, at the Golden Gate, where the Bay of San Francisco receives and discharges the waters of the Sacramento and its tributaries, forming the river system of the whole northern interior; and those of the San Joaquin, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:forming the river system of the southern interior as far as the Alpine region of the Sierra.  The Sierra Nevada is unbroken in its whole length, although the table-lands and depressions at its northern and southern extremities are nearly on the level of the plateau to the eastward, and offer the easiest wagon and railroad approaches from that side.  The most striking feature of the vegetation of the Coast Range is its majestic groves of redwood, which flourish only in the foggy regions north of San Luis Obispo, and in connection with a soil overlying a metamorphic sandstone.  The inner ridges of the Coast Range are frequently bare, or covered chiefly with varieties of oak, interspersed with the madro&ntilde;a, remarkable for its smooth, bronzed trunk, its curling bark, and its waxen leaves.  When not tree-clad, these inner ridges, to a height of from five hundred to twenty.five hundred feet, are covered with wild oats, ad suggest the idea of immense harvest-fields, that have been thrust up by volcanic energy, and left standing high in the blue air.  As the state geologist says:<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
022.sgm:<illus entity="a022-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FOOT-HILLS OF THE COAST RANGE</P>
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022.sgm:"What gives its peculiar character to the Coast Range scenery is, the delicate and beautiful carving of their masses by the aqueous erosion of the soft material of which they are composed, and which is made conspicuous by the general absence of forest and shrubby vegetation, except in the ca&ntilde;ons and along the crest of the ranges.  The bareness of the slopes gives full play to the effects of light and shade caused by the varying and intricate contour of the surface.  In the early spring these slopes are of the most vivid green, the awakening to life of the vegetation of this region beginning just when the hills and valleys of the Eastern States are most deeply covered by snow.  Spring here, in fact, commences with the end of summer; winter there is none.  Summer, blazing summer, tempered by the ocean fogs and ocean breezes, is followed by a long and delightful six months' spring, which in its turn passes almost instantaneously away, at the approach of another summer.  As soon as the dry season sets in, the herbage withers under the sun's rays, except in the deep ca&ntilde;ons; the surface becomes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:first of a pale green, then of a light straw yellow, and finally, of a rich russet-brown color, against which the dark green foliage of the oaks and pines, unchanging during the summer, is deeply contrasted."  The most striking feature of the vegetation of the Sierra Nevada is its magnificent growth of pines, comprising several species which attain a height of from one hundred and fifty to three hundred feet, and the famous groves of <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
022.sgm:, which equal in height, if not in age, the pyramids of Egypt.  The prominent lithological feature of the Coast Range is the prevalence of metamorphic cretaceous rocks.  The lithological structure of the Sierra Nevada is more primitive, granite being the prominent feature, underlying a greater part of its extensive beds of auriferous gravel, and giving an air of gray desolation to its naked summits, which bear the marks of ancient glaciers.  The Sierra Nevada is also distinguished for the evidences it presents of the tremendous forces that raised it at three successive epochs above the sea A hundred volcanoes have blazed along its crest, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1"><HI REND="italics">Yosemite Guide-book</HI>
022.sgm:<P>This glance at the mountain frame-work of California is necessary to an understanding of its lake and valley system.  The chief feature of this system is the central valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, supplemented at the south by the valleys of the Tulare and Kern.  These valleys form a basin about four hundred miles long by fifty or sixty miles wide, which was anciently the site of lacustrine or marine waters.  In its northern portion rises abruptly from the level plain a singular local mountain ridge, known as Sutter's Buttes, which is an object of beauty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:in the landscape views of that region, and seems, in the flooded seasons, like an island in the main.  North of the Buttes the valley gently swells to meet the foot-hills of the blending Sierra and Coast Range; and these uplands consist of a red and gravelly soil, whereas the general surface of the valley southward is a rich, deep loam, which has frequently been known to yield from sixty to seventy bushels of wheat to the acre.  The climate of this fertile basin is very warm in summer, and favorable to the out-door growth of roses and strawberries In winter.  It is timbered at intervals with open parks of oaks, which become more numerous near the foot-hills on either side, and there mix with inferior conifer&aelig; and minor vegetable forms, including the characteristic manzanita, buckeye, and laurel.  The principal rivers are fringed with sycamore, oak, cottonwood, willow, alder, ad white maple.  Sweet-briers bloom close to the. streams, and, where the timber has not been cut away, the wild grape.vine still hangs its graceful curtains, through which the boatman catches glimpses of beautiful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:woodland or valley scenes, and a far background of hazy mountains.  Immense tracts are annually covered with a luxuriant growth of wild oats, which, alternately green or gold, according to the season, rolls its surface in rippling light and shade under every breeze. The moist bottoms yield heavy crops of grass.  In the spring, the whole surface of these valleys, where not cultivated, is thickly covered with wild flowers of every color; and the scene of this gay parterre, broken with seas of verdant grain, and bounded by walls of blue or purple mountains, whose peaks are capped with snow, is quite entrancing.  These charming plains were the favorite resort of the aborigines, who found in the streams that drain them plenty of salmon, sturgeon, and lesser fish, and all over their extent herds of antelope and elk, and myriads of ducks and geese, besides quail, doves, hares, rabbits, and squirrels.  The grizzly would sometimes come from the hills to eat fish and berries; but he was game beyond the skill of the simple savages who once enjoyed the central valley alone.  Into the rivers discharge the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>There are no lakes in the central valley, excepting its lower extremity, where Tulare Lake, thirty.three miles long by twenty-two wide, surrounded by a broad area of reedy marshes, forms the mysterious sink for all the streams coursing down the western slope of the southern Sierra.  The general features of the valleys in Fresno, Tulare, and Kern counties, are not essentially different from those of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, which they supplement.  The chief point of difference is their hydrography.  There are considerable tracts of marsh land in the larger valleys named, but they are formed by the rivers and estuaries of the central bay; while those of the lower valleys are an adjunct of the lakes, about which they comprise an area of fully two hundred and fifty square miles.</P>
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022.sgm:<P>Most of the streams of the central valley flow from the Sierra Nevada.  A dozen principal branches of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, and the rivers that sink in the Tulare Lake, are fed along a distance of four hundred miles, from Shasta to Tejon, by several hundred tributaries which rise in that great chain. In the same distance a few score of creeks flow eastward from the inner ridges of the Coast Range, to the central basin, and some of these are dry in the summer.  The small rivers of the Coast Range flow through the intervales, emptying either into the ocean at right angles to the trend of the coast, or following the valleys parallel with the trend till they reach some of the bays that make inland.</P>
022.sgm:<P>The valleys in the Coast Range are numerous and dissimilar, though possessing some marked characteristics in common.  Those of one class lie open to the sea, and are usually narrow, with a trend nearly east and west, or following that of the coast.  Most of them are found south of the Bay of San Francisco, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:itself skirted by a series of valleys which slope from the base of the Mount Diablo range.  The largest of the coast valleys is the Salinas, in the Santa Cruz and Monterey district.  It is about ninety miles long by eight to fourteen miles wide, mostly arable, and yielding heavy crops of wild oats and clover.  Although the open coast valleys are subject to the winds and fogs, they possess a fine climate, and are cultivated to the very margin of the sea.  It is a beautiful sight to behold their grassy margins skirting the crescent lines of small bays, or their wide fields of yellow grain contrasting with the blue line of the ocean, while behind rise the rumpled velvet of bare hills, tawny or verdant, with the season, and the farther crests of cloud-girt summits bristling with redwood forests that keep moist in the salty air.  Perhaps the most picturesque valley that opens to the sea, though it meets the ocean only at its extremity, is Russian River Valley, north of San Francisco.  It is long and narrow, has a generally level but sometimes rolling surface, is traversed by a clear stream, and bounded on either <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The inner series of Coast Range valleys is the most extensive.  While the outer valleys are generally separated by abrupt and treeless ridges, those inland are divided by gentler elevations, which are covered by trees or clad with grass and wild oats.  The inner valleys, again, lie parallel to the trend of the coast. They are commonly oblong, nearly level, or rolling like the Western prairies, extremely fertile, and have a climate more sheltered from the sea-wind and fog.</P>
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022.sgm:<P>Among the most celebrated of these are the Sonoma, Napa, Santa Rosa, Suisun, Vaca, Berreyesa, and Clear Lake, north of the Bay of San Francisco, and some of them communicating with it; and the Alameda, Santa Clara, Amador, Pajaro, and San Juan, to the east or south of the bay.  An enumeration of all the coast valleys distinctively known, would be a tedious task.  They are the favorite nestling places of our population, as they were the favorite sites of the Mission Fathers, and offer examples of the most elaborate cultivation, the most contentment, and the greatest thrift.  Seldom more than three or four miles wide, often not more than one, they are in length from five to fifty.  Their gently rolling surfaces rise into mound-like hills on either side,--the best soil for the wine-grape,--which in turn are flanked by ridges or peaks from five hundred to perhaps three thousand feet high. The creeks with their dark green belts of timber, often live-oak, wind through continuous harvest-fields. Many of the farm-houses are prettily built on knolls that command a good view.  Nothing can be finer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:than the aspect of many of these valleys, when the lush verdure of the early spring is prodigally gemmed with wild blossoms of the most brilliant colors, or when the rich gold of their summer fields, islanded with the clumps of evergreen oaks, is contrasted with the purple or blue mountain, and the sky at morning or evening brightens or fades through tints of amber and amethyst.  Sometimes the splendor of the setting sun seems to penetrate the dark substance of the solid hills, and give them a transparent glow, as if they yet burned with the heat of their thrusting up. As light comes in the spring or summer, the trees are vocal with linnets, while larks sing in the fields, and chanticleer sounds his horn.  As day goes, it is pleasant to hear the birds calling to repose, the wild doves cooing, the quails fondly signaling their mates, the owl adding his solemn note to the vespers of the feathered tribe.  One thinks of the day when a native generation will love these mountain-walled valleys, with their wealth of varied scenery and resources, as ardently as the "pioneers" loved the home-spots which they left <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The coast valleys are too near the level of the ocean, and the mountains surrounding them are too broken, to contain many lakes.  Few are known which deserve description; but one of these, in Lake County, about eighty miles north of San Francisco, is one of the most remarkable and lovely in the State.  It is called Clear Lake, in spite of the fact that, owing to its shallowness and the easy disturbance of its muddy bottom by winds, it is scarcely ever clear. Seen from an elevation, however, as it reflects the color of a seldom-clouded sky, it loses nothing by comparison with purer sheets of water.  It is a pity that its Indian name of Lup Yomi, whatever its meaning, could not be substituted for its present commonplace title.  Clear Lake lies in a valley between two ridges of the Coast Range, thirty-six <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:miles from the ocean, and has a length of twenty-five miles by a width of from two to ten miles.  Its elevation above the sea is about fifteen hundred feet. The region surrounding it is ruggedly mountainous, and embraces an ancient volcanic centre.  St. Helena, at the head of Napa Valley, to the south, and the highest peak between San Francisco and the lake, is an extinct volcano, and the evidences of its former activity are abundant for many miles in every direction. Midway between this peak and the lake are the famous geysers, and mineral springs and deposits are frequent throughout the whole region.  For several miles the road approaching the valley from the direction of Napa passes over a mountain largely of obsidian. The cuttings through this material reveal it boldly; the undisturbed surface is covered with boulders and cobbles of it, and in the roadway it is ground into pebbles and sand.  A deluded person who was convinced that it was glass and could be readily manufactured, once sank considerable money in a vain attempt to convert it into bottles.  On the western <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:shore of the lake, not far from the base of this obsidian mountain, is Borax Lake, a small and shallow pond remarkable for the large percentage of borax contained in its waters and muddy bed.  Extensive deposits of sulphur are also found in the vicinity. The inclosing ridges are peculiarly rugged, and the conical peaks numerous.  One of these, called Uncle Sam, rises abruptly from the edge of the water to a height of twenty-five hundred feet, dividing the lake into two parts, Upper and Lower.  Near the upper end of the lake Mount Ripley attains an elevation of three thousand feet, and farther off rises Mount St. John, nearly four thousand feet.  Still higher peaks, on the northeastern side, bearing aboriginal names, are often covered with snow, and at such times the traveler descending to the lake from the west, and seeing these white peaks beyond the blue expanse and green margin of meadow and grove, is reminded of Switzerland and the Alps.  Where not volcanic the rocks are cretaceous, and abound in fossils.  Ridges of serpentine occur, which are richly charged with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>In the northern part of California, where the Coast Range and Sierra Nevada interlock, the system of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:valleys is confused and difficult to describe.  Yet it may be said that they preserve the oblong form and level surface which characterizes the entire family of Pacific valleys.  The upper part of the Coast Range proper, extending to and including the Humboldt Bay country, comprises a noble series of pastoral and agricultural valleys, watered by streams rich in salmon and flanked by mountains which are covered with forests of the stately redwood.  Some of these valleys were the scenes of conflicts with Indians for many years, and owe their sparseness of population partly to this cause and partly to their isolation.  In rugged Trinity County there are only a few small valleys along the water-courses.  In Klamath County the largest valley is Hoopa, thirty miles long and two wide, at the junction of Trinity and Klamath rivers. Del Norte has a number of small, fertile valleys.  Siskiyou has the largest valleys of any of the northern counties.  They seem to be intimately connected with the plateau east of the Sierra, and to have some of its characteristics. Scott Valley, forty miles long by seven <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:wide, lies between the Trinity and Salmon ranges, which are six thousand feet high, the valley itself having an altitude of three thousand feet, and possessing a climate more like that of some of the Northern States than the lower valleys of California.  Surprise Valley, in the extreme northeastern part of the State and overlying the Nevada boundary, is sixty miles long by fifteen wide.  It has an elevation even greater than Scott Valley, but it is as fertile as it is lovely. Its ample surface is finely watered, and covered with a rank growth of native clover and grass, on which feed immense flocks of wild geese and brant in their season.  On its east side are three beautiful lakes, which extend nearly its whole length, and cover almost half its surface.  They contain no fish, but are the resort of great quantities of ducks, geese, cranes, pelicans, and other wild fowl.  They receive a number of small streams, but have no outlet.  Shasta and Elk valleys are lava plains, three thousand to three thousand seven hundred feet above the sea.  They are remarkable only for the fine views they command of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Siskiyou County contains a number of large lakes besides those in Surprise Valley.  Its total lake surface is equal to half a million acres.  Klamath Lake, the source of Klamath River, lies partly in this county and partly in Oregon.  Eastward from it, lying wholly in Siskiyou, are Goose, Rhett, and Wright lakes, which are the sources of several rivers traversing the northern counties of California, including the Trinity, Salmon, and Pitt.  The last named river debouches from Goose Lake, which is thirty miles long and sixty wide, and is surrounded by a fertile valley of thirty or forty thousand acres.</P>
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022.sgm:<P>Leaving Siskiyou, whose vales and plateaus, sterile plains of lava, and wide but shallow sheets of water, have an elevation of from three thousand to four thousand feet above the sea,' we reach the simple topography of the Sierra, with its regular ridges leading to lofty peaks, and divided by profound ca&ntilde;ons.  Here one would scarcely expect to find valleys; yet there are hundreds of small valleys in the lofty chain, many of which are inhabited and cultivated.  One series of valleys, and these are the smallest, lie along the water-courses on the western flank of the Sierra, at right angles to the trend of the range, and frequently forming the passes by which it is crossed.  Another series lie between the double crests of the summit, parallel to the trend of the chain.  The valleys on the two flanks form convenient roadways, and were followed by the first emigrants to California.  The famous Beckworth, Henness, and Truckee routes across the Sierra Nevada all lie through a succession of such small intervales, reaching on either side of the Sierra to an open and level pass.  The Pacific Railroad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:crosses the Sierra partly by the aid of these natural road-beds, following the course of the Truckee down <illus entity="a022-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Yosemite Falls, from Glacier Point.</P>
022.sgm:the eastern slope.  The most remarkable of these transverse valleys partake of the nature of gorges.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:One of them, the Yosemite, has a world-wide celebrity.  The valley itself is an almost level area, about eight miles long and from half a mile to a mile in width.  Its elevation above the sea is four thousand feet, and the cliffs and domes about it are from seven thousand to nine thousand feet above the sea, with an altitude above the valley of from three to five thousand feet.  Over these vertical walls of bare granite tumble the Merced River and its forks.  Most of the ca&ntilde;ons and valleys of the Sierra have resulted from denudation, and some have been partly shaped and marked by glaciers; but Professor Whitney thinks that this mighty chasm has been roughly hewn in its present form by the same kind of forces which have raised the crest of the Sierra and moulded the surface into something like their present shape.  He conceives the domes were formed by the process of upheaval itself, and says that the half dome was split asunder in the middle, the lost half having gone down in what may truly have been said to have been "the wreck of matter and the crash of worlds."  John Muir, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:combines the feeling of a poet with the patient observation of a scientist, and who spent several years of research in this part of the Sierra, contends, on the contrary, that glacial action was the main force which sculptured this wonderful fane of nature.  Another gorge, which is inferior only to the Yosemite, is found at the sources of the Tuolumne River, still farther in the heart of the Sierra.  Its vertical cliffs would be unique in the mountain scenery of the world, were Yosemite unknown.  It is here that the tourist approaches the Alpine region of California.  The summit of the pass leading into Tuolumne Valley is nine thousand and seventy feet above the sea, and the descent to the river is only about five hundred feet. Tenaya Valley, between Yosemite and Tuolumne, contains a beautiful lake by the same name, a mile long and half a mile wide.  A high ridge near this lake commands a fine view of Cathedral Peak, which Professor Whitney describes as a lofty ridge of rock cut down squarely for more than one thousand feet on all sides, and with a cluster of pinnacles at one end, rising <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The highest of the transverse valleys is Mono Pass, which is ten thousand seven hundred and sixty feet above the sea; and the most elevated pass used by travelers is the Union.  In a ca&ntilde;on at the eastern side of this pass are several small lakes, not less than seven thousand feet above the sea, which are produced, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Below the region of the high Sierra in Southern California, the valleys or table-lands connect with the Nevada plateau, or Great Basin, and are mainly of the same character--arid, alkaline, and barren.  The streams flowing east or west are bordered by narrow strips of level land, supporting tuft grasses, willows, and cottonwoods, but offering little inducement for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>While the valleys and lakes of the Tuolumne and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:King's River region present altogether the strongest and grandest features, those between this region and the sources of Feather River northward are the most pleasant.  All the rivers in this stretch of country flow partly through small valleys; but the larger valleys are those of the summit, lying between the crests of the Sierra, or on its flank, from three thousand to seven thousand feet above sea level, while the ridges that inclose them on the east and west rise from one thousand five hundred to three thousand feet higher.  The largest of these valleys lie at the sources of the Feather River, in Plumas and Lassen counties, connecting with easy approaches from the Nevada plateau, and offering low and comparatively snowless passes for winter transit of the mountain. Honey Lake Valley, in Lassen, contains about twenty thousand acres of meadow and arable land, is one of the lowest in altitude, and possesses a mild winter climate.  The lake from which it is named is twelve by five miles in dimensions, of irregular form, and constantly decreasing size.  It is really an independent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:basin, lying east of the Sierra crests, and receives the water of two rivers.  The valley is sixty miles long by fifteen to twenty wide.  It is named from the quantity of honey-like liquid deposited plentifully on the grass and shrubs by a species of bee peculiar to dry and barren countries.  Eagle Valley contains a shallow and irregular lake, about twelve miles long by eight wide.  Long Valley, in the southern part of the county, is about forty miles long by two or three wide, quite level, and notable for its superior pasturage. Southward of this valley, the summit valleys decrease in size with increase of altitude.  While the Lassen and Plumas valleys are only from three thousand to four thousand feet above the sea, those in Sierra, Nevada, Placer, El Dorado, and other counties to the southward, are from five thousand to seven thousand feet high.  A third small lake in Lassen, called Summit Lake, has an altitude of five thousand eight hundred feet, with a little strip of level land.  Plumas contains nearly a score of valleys that are fertile, sheltered, and populous, lying on the upper tributaries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>All the lesser summit valleys have characteristics in common, varying chiefly as to size and altitude. They are usually long and narrow, covered with a luxuriant growth of natural grasses, watered by small willow-fringed streams that flow either west or east, gemmed by small lakes, and framed by more or less rugged ridges, bearing thick forests of pine and fir to near their summits, which are bare crags of gray granite, covered for a great part of the year with snow.  The discovery of silver in Nevada, in 1859, and the subsequent settlement of that State, brought these valleys into notice and use.  Before that event, they were mostly resorted to by drovers for summer pasturage, cattle being driven thither from the parched plains of California in summer, and brought back on the approach of winter.  At a later day their grasses were cut for hay, to be sold in Nevada, and to way.travelers. Many of them lay directly in the numerous routes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The most attractive feature of the lesser summit valleys is their multitude of clear, fresh lakes, stocked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:with the finest trout, surrounded by magnificent groves of pine and fir, reflecting snowy peaks, and beautiful with all the colors of changing day and evening. Concerning this charming feature, less has been reported than of any other.  A standard authority on the physical features of California has even made the broad assertion that the Sierra Nevada contains very few lakes.  This mistake was natural; for, aside from the singular salt or alkali lakes in the volcanic regions of the Sierra, north and south, together with the few large fresh-water lakes already enumerated in this article, the lakes of the Sierra have not been mapped or described.  On no popular chart of this range are more than twenty or thirty lakes indicated, whereas the existence of at least two hundred, in a distance of four hundred miles, from Siskiyou to Kern, can be positively vouched for; and this number is probably within the truth, as it will be developed by future explorations.  These lakes are the sources of the numerous rivers that have eroded the deep ca&ntilde;ons of the western slope, and of the few which flow eastward.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Sierra County contains twenty or more small lakes, situated in the depressions of the summit, generally circular in form, from half a mile to a mile across, and varying in depth from a few feet to ten or twenty fathoms.  The largest, Gold Lake, about four miles long by two wide, is famous as the scene of falsely reported deposits of lump gold, which, in 1849-50, attracted and disappointed a multitude of miners. Nevada County, next adjoining Sierra on the south, is still richer in lakes, containing at least thirty.  Four of these are notable as the sources of supply for one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:of the most extensive mining canals in the State,--that of the Eureka Lake and Yuba Canal Company.  The trunk canal of this company is sixty-five miles long.  Its principal supply reservoir is Eureka Lake. This originally had an area of only one square mile, but an artificial dam of granite across the outlet, one hundred and twenty feet long at the base, two hundred and fifty feet long at the top, and seventy feet deep, has doubled the surface of the lake, and given it an average depth of sixty-five feet.  Lake Faucherie, with a wooden dam thirty feet high, floods two hundred acres.  Two smaller lakes with these feed a canal eight feet wide by three and a half feet deep, and furnish water for some of the heaviest deep-gravel mining in the State.  The South Yuba Canal Company has utilized five lakes in another part of Nevada County.  One of these, Meadow Lake, is enlarged by a solid masonry dam, which is forty-two feet high and eleven hundred and fifty feet long, and makes, when full, a sheet about two miles long by half a mile wide, with a depth varying, according to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The works of the two companies named cost an aggregate of several million dollars. When they cease to be wanted for mining purposes, they will serve to irrigate countless gardens and vineyards on the lower slopes of the Sierra.  Meadow Lake gives a name to a large township which is remarkable for being one of the highest mining localities in California, as for the great size and number of its gold and silver ledges. The general altitude of the district is from seven thousand to eight thousand feet, and contains about twenty lakes.  Snow fell there in the winter of 1866-67 to the depth of twenty-five feet, yet many daring people remained and mined through the season, and several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:towns are growing up.  Within the district are Crystal and Donner lakes--the former one of the most picturesque resorts in the Sierra; the latter having a beauty of another kind, and being remarkable as the scene of a painful tragedy in the early settlement of the State.  Donner Lake is three miles long by one wide.  It lies in sight from the eastern end of the summit tunnel of the Central Pacific Railroad, one thousand five hundred feet below that point and five thousand five hundred feet above the sea.  A small stream pours from it into the Truckee River, only three miles eastward, watering a narrow valley.  Here, late in October, 1846, a party of eighty overland immigrants, under the lead of Captain Donner, and including over thirty women and children, were overtaken by a snow-storm, which prevented them from proceeding.  They suffered terribly in their winter camp, or while wandering blindly searching an outlet, until found by relief parties from the western side of the mountains, in February.  In the sequel, thirty-seven perished from exposure and hunger, and some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>A congeries of small lakes is found to the southward of the Pacific Railroad where it crosses the summit, each of which has its peculiar charms, and its special friends among the tourists, who begin to seek these sylvan sheets through the, warm season.  They lie from six thousand to seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, where the snow falls commonly ten feet deep, and stays from November or December until July, with lingering patches sometimes on the peaks above until the next winter.  Some of these lakes are appropriated for ice supplies to the lower country.  Rude hotels have been erected near a few, to accommodate the visitors who go there to fish, sail, sketch, and recuperate.</P>
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022.sgm:<P>All the lakes of Sierra and Nevada counties, except one or two,--like Donner, which lies on the eastern side of the summit, or Truckee, which is just over the line of gradual eastern descent in the Henness Pass, and feeds Little Truckee River,-- are sources of the numerous tributary streams that feed and form the Yuba River, or the northern forks of the American. Another congeries of small lakes in Placer and El Dorado counties feed the larger forks of the American and Cosumnes, and supply an extensive system of mining canals.  The South Fork Canal, one of the largest of these works, having a length of one hundred and forty-two and a half miles, is partly supplied from Silver, Red, and Willow lakes, which store up together nearly three hundred and fifty million cubic feet of water.  Some of this goes to irrigate the vineyards for which the high, red hills of El Dorado are becoming celebrated.  Through the whole middle tier of mining counties, from Siskiyou to Mariposa, the summit lakes are more or less drawn upon to fill artificial channels, and aid in the extraction of gold and the cultivation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:of the soil.  Their names make a long list, and suggest their picturesque qualities,--as Silver, Crystal, Cascade, Emerald, Grass, Fallen Leaf, Tule, Willow, Mirror, Alder, Palisade, etc.  Many are named from the peaks that overlook them, from the wild animals or birds that frequent them, from the circumstances of their discovery, or from the persons who first took up abodes near them.  The most extensive and celebrated of the whole group is Lake Tahoe, in El Dorado County, only fifteen miles southwardly from Donner Lake and the line of the Central Pacific Railroad. Its elevation above the sea, exceeding six thousand feet; its great depth, reaching a maximum of more than one thousand five hundred feet; its exquisite purity and beauty of color; the grandeur of its snowy mountain walls; its fine beaches and shore groves of pine,--make it the most picturesque and attractive of all the California lake.  Profound as it is, it is wonderfully transparent, and the sensation upon floating over and gazing into its still bosom, where the granite boulders can be seen far, far below, and large trout <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A MEMORY OF THE SIERRA.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>MY heart is in the mountains, where<LB>They stand afar in purple air.<LB>Up to their peaks and snowy founts<LB>In happy dreams my spirit mounts.<LB>Their ridges stretch unto the plain,<LB>Like arms, to draw me up again;<LB>The plain itself a pathway is<LB>To lead me to remembered bliss.<LB>I hear the brown larks tune their lay,<LB>And little linnets, brown as they,<LB>Fill up the intervals with sweet<LB>Enticement to their green retreat.<LB>I hear the wild dove's note forlorn,<LB>The piping quail beneath the thorn,<LB>The squirrel's busy chip and stir,<LB>The grouse's sudden heavy whir, </HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The cawing of the white-winged crow,<LB>And chatter of the jays below.<LB>I stand within the cloistered shade<LB>By columned fir and cedar made,<LB>And up the minster.mocking pine<LB>I gaze along the plummet line<LB>Of mighty trunks, whose leafy tops<LB>Distill a spray Of diamond drops,<LB>Whene'er the sunlight chances through<LB>Their high mosaic of green and blue.<LB>I hear a sound that seems to be<LB>An inland murmur of the sea,<LB>Yet know it is the tuneful moan<LB>Of wind-touched forest harps alone.<LB>I wander to the dizzy' steep<LB>That plunges into ca&ntilde;on deep,<LB>And where the obscuring hazes hint<LB>The amethyst and violet's tint.<LB>I see along the cloudless sky<LB>My dear-loved peaks, serene and high--<LB>So cold at morn, but warmly bright<LB>With flushes of the evening light.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The very eagles hate to leave<LB>These heights sublime, but fondly cleave<LB>In circling flights about the crests<LB>Where they have built their lonely nests.<LB>Perched on these crags, the world below<LB>Melts in the hazy summer's glow;<LB>Hid are its gloomy sounds and sights<LB>From all who reach these templed heights,<LB>Where, Moses-like, the soul bespeaks<LB>The highest good its rapture seeks.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>UP THE WESTERN SLOPE.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>THE grandest of all the mountain ranges on the western side of the United States is the Sierra Nevada. This range from Mount Shasta, at the north, where it blends with the Coast Range, to Mount Whitney, at the south, beyond which point it breaks off into irregular formations that finally slope to the deserts, is about five hundred miles long.  Its western slope, which is at least one hundred miles long on any grade fit for travel, is covered below an elevation of seven thousand feet with the most magnificent coniferous forests on the continent, embracing the wonderful groves of <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
022.sgm:.  These forests extend to the foot-hill region, a belt of gently rounded mountains and level table-lands, where the prevailing larger growths are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:deciduous and evergreen oaks, the digger or nut pine, ceanothus, syringa, manzanita, buckeye, and poison-oak.  The foot-hills gradually melt into the broad plains of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, only fifty or sixty feet above tide-level, which sweep their flat surfaces of emerald or golden harvests clear to the base of the purple Coast Range, rising hazy in the distant air of the Pacific.  This placid region succeeds the tumultuous ruggedness of the higher ridges like a calm after a storm.  Until the lower foot-hills are reached, the Sierra Nevada, on this slope, seems to break down in long, regular ridges, the outlines of which, at right angles to the trend of the range, are drawn straightly across the sky, presenting massive but precise forms, more grand than picturesque.  But these ridges are divided by ca&ntilde;ons eroded by ice and water, having a depth of one thousand to three thousand or four thousand feet, whose walls are often precipitous cliffs, and, even where clad with soil and forest, usually very steep.  These ca&ntilde;ons, with the streams which flow through them, head up in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The comparatively timberless eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada, with its infrequent streams and monotonous gray stretches of wild sage, plunges abruptly down to the Nevada plateau.  A descent of about two thousand five hundred feet, in a distance of fifty miles, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:is all there is of this slope, the plateau itself having an elevation of four thousand or five thousand feet and extending with its irregular mineral ridges to the Salt Lake basin and the Rocky Mountains.  Thus on one side of the Sierra Nevada are verdure and fertility,--the summer charm of a semi-tropical clime, with its varied and abundant products, its poetic beauty of scenery, and its keenly sensuous joy in vitality; while on the other are barrenness and sterility, naked mountains, monotonous and often desert plains, where nature looks desperately unfinished, and gives every sign of rigorous struggle, without amenity or repose.  The traveler from the east enjoys this vivid contrast so quickly realized--this rapid exchange of arid wastes for luxuriant woods and fields; but the transition going from the west chills and depresses, except at evening, when the sage-brush plains and treeless mountains of Nevada are transformed by the alchemy of color, and kindle into beauty.  Probably the passage of no other mountain range of equal magnitude affords so much scenic enjoyment, at so slight an expenditure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Leaving Sacramento, rimmed about with its iron-clad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:levee and fringes of willow thicket, only fifty. six feet above the tide-level, the Central Pacific Railroad reaches the first swell of the Sierra within eight miles to the eastward, and in one hundred and five miles makes the summit in Donner Pass, seven thousand and forty.two feet above the sea.  In the spring--say from February or March to June--a trip to the summit is especially striking for the sharp contrast between the Eden-like beauty of the lower country and the Arctic pallor of the region within the snow-belt.  The plains of Sacramento, where they are not broken with the plow or sown with grain, are covered with a profuse growth of many.colored wild flowers, most brilliant of which is the California poppy ( <HI REND="italics">Papavera Eschscholtzia</HI>
022.sgm: ), whose deep orange cups flame out in sunny splendor where they are massed in large tracts, and are seen in glowing contrast by patches of blue lupin and larkspur.  On this gay parterre flourish at intervals park.like groves of large oaks, deciduous and evergreen, with huge bunches of mistletoe tangled in their leafy tresses, their gray trunks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>This is pretty much the character of the Sierra foot-hills up to the edge of the snow-line, say twenty-five hundred to three thousand feet above the sea, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The portion of the lower Sierra thus far sketched is the region of the gold deposits.  Here lie those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:great bands of slate, veined with quartz, whose degradation was the source of the precious metal distributed through the overlying drift, in the channels of modern streams, in the beds of ravines, and on the summits and slopes of hills.  Here the chocolate-colored rivers, choked for a hundred feet deep with mining <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm:, attest the destructive activity of the gold-hunters. Every ravine and gulch has been sluiced into deeper ruts or filled with washings from above.  Lofty ridges have been stripped of auriferous gravel for several continuous miles together, to a depth of from one hundred to two hundred feet.  Cataracts of mud have replaced these foaming cascades which used to gleam like snow in the primeval woods.  And the woods have, alas! in too many cases, been quite obliterated by the insatiate miner.  But it is pleasant to observe how nature seeks to heal the wounds inflicted by man; how she recreates soil, renews vegetation, and draws over the ugly scars of twenty years a fresh mantle of verdure and bloom.  Extensive groves of young pines and cedars are flourishing on the sites of the old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:forests, along the course of water ditches, and even in the chasms of decaying granite and piled up boulders and cobbles left by the miner.  Small basins and valleys once covered or filled with mining litter are coating over with grass and grain, and in some instances have been converted into garden spots.  Indeed, many of the old mining camps are now more noted and valuable for their orchards and vineyards than for their gold product.  The rude log-cabin has given way to the vine-clad cottage, and the oleander blooms before doorways where once the only shrub may have been the pretty but noxious poison-oak.  Coloma, where gold was first discovered in 1848, and where five thousand men dug for it once, is now a sleepy little village of horticulturists and vintners, embosomed in sloping hill-side vineyards, its "saloons" abandoned to the rats, and its jail converted into a wine-cellar.  On the very verge of deep hydraulic diggings cling thrifty orchards.  The peach, the fig, and the prickly pear are rivals in luxuriant bearing, clear up to the line of winter snow, and even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Yet it is a relief to get out of sight of the crater-like chasms left by the miner, with their pinky chalk-cliffs of ancient drift, along which the cars fly as over a parapet or wall.  It is pleasant to quit the hills denuded of timber and left so desolate in their dusty brown; delightful to reach loftier ridges and plunge into cool shades of spicy pine.  Here nature seems to reassert herself as in the time of her unbroken solitude, when the trees grew, and flowers bloomed, and birds caroled; when the bright cataracts leaped in song, and the hazy ca&ntilde;on walls rose in softened grandeur, indifferent to the absence of civilized man; though the civilization which has made these superb <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:heights so easily accessible for our enjoyment is not to be scorned.  The rocky promontories, jutting into blue abysses, and giving sublime pictures of mountain lines sweeping down to the plain, are finer for the iron rail which lies along their dizzy edges, surpassing the Appian Way of the Romans, or the Alpine Road of Napoleon.  Here we have the sensation of ballooning without its dangers.  Flying over deep gulches on trestles one hundred feet high, and along the verge of ca&ntilde;ons two thousand feet deep, we look out on the air and view the landscape as from a perch in the sky. Thus is the picturesque made easy, and thus mechanical genius lends itself to the fine wants of the soul. Reaching the deep snow-belt, however, the vision of mountain scenery is cut off by the many miles of snow-sheds, or, at best, is only caught in snatches provokingly brief, as the train dashes by an occasional opening.  If the time is winter, the shed is enveloped in snow from ten to twenty feet deep;  the light gleams feebly as through diaphanous shell, and the smoke-blackened interior is in sharp contrast to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:white drifts seen through chinks and slits.  A ride through these winding galleries at this season is weird enough, and the rare glimpses without reveal a scene thoroughly arctic.  The woods are grand with their drooping plumes,--white on the upper, green on the lower surface,--and the massive trunks are clad on one side with a thick garment of greenish-yellow moss extending to the limbs, which often trail long pendants of gray or black moss from bark or foliage.  Higher up, the treeless peaks and slopes of granite, dazzlingly white, send down roaring torrents. The sea-murmur of the forest has ceased; there is a hush in the air except for the roar of waters.  The cushion of snow prevents reverberation, and muffles the harp of the summer-sounding pine.  Here and there in the sheds are cavernous side-openings, which indicate snow-buried stations or towns, where stand waiting groups of men, who receive daily supplies--even to the daily newspaper--in this strange region. The railroad is the raven that feeds them.  Without it these winter wildernesses would be uninhabitable.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Nothing can be more charming than the woods of the Sierra summit in June, July, and August, especially in the level glades margining the open summit valleys, at an elevation of from six thousand to seven thousand feet.  The pines and firs, prevailing over spruces and cedars, attain a height ranging from one hundred to two hundred feet, and even more. Their trunks are perfectly straight, limbless for fifty to a hundred feet, painted above the snow-mark with yellow mosses, and ranged in open park.like groups, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:affording far vistas.  The soil may be thin, but it is soft and springy to the tread, covered with needles of the pine, greened with tender grasses and vines, and thickly sprinkled with blossoms.  Huge boulders of granite relieve the vernal coloring with their picturesque mosses of gray, starred with lichens.  These rocks are often hid in vines or in dwarf oaks and manzanitas, which, under the pressure of deep snow, assume a vine-like growth, winding about a boulder with their clinging and sinuous small branches.  Thickets of wild rose and other flowering shrubs occur at intervals, giving an almost artistic variety to the woodland scene.  The crimson snow-plant lifts its slender shaft of curious beauty.  Large patches of helianthus--some species with very broad leaves---spread their sunflowers to the air.  Sparkling springs, fresh from snowy fountains, silver-streak these forest meadows, where birds come to bathe and drink, and tracks of the returning deer are printed.  Once more the quail is heard piping to its mates, the ,heavy whirring flight of the grouse startles the meditative rambler, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:the pines give forth again their surf-like roar to the passing breeze, waving their plumed tops in slow and graceful curves across a sky wonderfully clear and blue.  To the citizen weary of sordid toil and depressed by long exile from nature, there is an influence in these elevated groves which both soothes and excites.  Here beauty and happiness seem to be the rule, and care is banished.  The feast of color, the keen, pure atmosphere, the deep, bright heavens, the grand peaks bounding the view, are intoxicating. There is a sense of freedom, and the step becomes elastic and quick under the new feeling of self-ownership.  Love for all created things fills the soul as never before.  One listens to the birds as to friends, and would fain cultivate with them a close intimacy. The water-fall has a voice full of meaning.  The wild rose tempts the mouth to kisses, and the trees and rocks solicit an embrace.  We are in harmony with the dear mother on whom we had turned our backs so long, yet who receives us with a welcome unalloyed by reproaches.  The spirit worships in an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Let the pilgrim to these Sierra shrines avoid the hucksters who carry traffic into the temple.  Let him leave the beaten line of travel, where the ravaging axe converts the umbrageous solitude into noisy blanks.  Let him quit the scene where sawdust chokes and stains the icy streams in their beds of boulders. All things have their place, and these are well in their way, but are only an offense to the true lover of nature.  Plunge into the unbroken forests--into the deep ca&ntilde;ons; climb the high peaks; be alone a while and free.  Look into nature, as well as at nature, so that the enjoyment shall be not merely sensuous but intellectual.  A less exclusive and jealous pilgrimage than this, however, will make a man better, physically and mentally.  He will realize from it the truth of Tyndall's testimony to the value of high mountain exercise in restoring wasted nervous energy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNRISE NEAR HENNESS PASS.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>THE moon is streaming down her mellow light<LB>Upon the snowy summits of the range<LB>That walls apart the gold and silver lands.<LB>It gleams in piney glens and ca&ntilde;ons wild,<LB>On tumbling cataracts and singing rills,<LB>That are not seen but heard amid the gloom;<LB>Making the savage scene, remote and lone,<LB>Seem holy as the fane where thousands kneel<LB>And worship 'neath the dome that Art hath reared.<LB>Is that a rival moon whose tender glow<LB>Now silvers in the east the speary points<LB>Of bulky pines that crowd the mountain pass?<LB>No, it is Venus, prophet-star of day--<LB>The lovers' planet, lambent, large, and full;<LB>And what a lunar glory trails she now<LB>Along the dewy chambers of the morn!</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">But moon and planet pale and dwindle small<LB>Before the coming of a greater orb;<LB>As eyes of love, that brightly beamed in life,<LB>Contract and darken 'neath the glare that streams<LB>Upon them from the realms of fadeless light.<LB>The gray sky whitens with a boreal glow<LB>Along the farthest dark blue line of hills;<LB>Then flushes into amber faint, and then<LB>To saffron hues that kindle into rose.<LB>Life stirs with dawning light.  The birds awake,<LB>And welcome it with twitterings of joy,<LB>Hoarse murmurs from the Yuba's fretted stream<LB>Come faintly up from depths of gorges dark.<LB>The cool air, rising over banks of snow,<LB>With gentle rustling fans the cooing birds;<LB>And all the dusky woods are stirred and thrilled<LB>With swelling of the Memnon strain that flows<LB>From touchings of no priest but Nature's self.<LB>Peak after peak beacons the coming day,<LB>And snowy summits blush like maiden cheeks<LB>At nearing footsteps of expected swain.<LB>The splintered pinnacles and rocky crags<LB>That late frowned gloomily as castles old</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Perched on the dizzy heights that guard the Rhine,<LB>Now softly rise in gold and purple air,<LB>And move the soul like sad and stately verse.<LB>The east is all aglow with brightening flame,<LB>That overflows the willow-fringed vale,<LB>And drives the shadows from ravine and glen.<LB>In ghastly pallor wanes the rayless moon,<LB>While jeweled Venus has evanished quite.<LB>Oh, what a burst of splendor!  A great globe<LB>Of burning gold, flashing insufferably,<LB>And warming all the scene with ardent ray,<LB>Heaves into view above the mountain's line,<LB>Darts golden arrows through the dusky aisles<LB>Of thickly-columned cedar, pine, and fir,<LB>Transmutes the common dust to shining haze,<LB>Licks up the rising mists with tongue of flame,<LB>Gilds the "pale streams with heavenly alchemy,"<LB>And down the shaggy slope, for scores of miles,<LB>Pours forth a cataract of tremulous light<LB>That floods the valley at its rolling base,<LB>Making the arid plain a zone of tropic heat.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ON THE SUMMIT.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>ARRIVED at the summit of the Sierra Nevada, on the line of the railroad, there are many delightful pedestrian and horseback excursions to be made in various directions.  At Summit Valley (which is associated with the relief of the tragically fated Donner emigrants, and is only three miles from Donner Pass) there is an odious saw-mill, which has thinned out the forests; an ugly group of whitewashed houses; a ruined creek, whose waters are like a tan-vat; a big sandy dam across the valley, reared in a vain attempt to make an ice pond; a multitude of dead, blanched trees; a great, staring, repellant blank; and yet this valley is not unlovely.  Its upper end, still a green meadow, leads to the base of peaks ten thousand or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:twelve thousand feet high, whose light gray sum n,its of granite, or volcanic breccia, weathered into castellated forms, rise in sharp contrast to the green woods margining the level mead.  A little apart from the noisy station the woods are beautiful, as we have described them, and the boulder-strewn earth reminds one of a pasture dotted with sheep.  On the northern side rises the square butte of Mount Stanford, two thousand four hundred and fifty.three feet above the valley, and nine thousand two hundred and thirty. seven feet above the sea.  Its volcanic crest is carved into a curious resemblance to a ruined castle, and hence it was named, and is still popularly called, Castle Peak; but as the same title is affixed to several peaks along the range, the state geologist has wisely given it another on the official maps.  This peak can be ascended to the base of the summit crags on horseback; the remaining climb afoot, up a very steep slope of sliding <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm:, is arduous but short, and is repaid by a superb view, embracing at least a hundred miles of the Sierra crests, their numerous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:sharp peaks streaked with snow, and lying between them at intervals the many lakes of the region, including the flashing sheet of Tahoe, nearly thirty miles long, the dark and deep-set Donner, and the little meadow.fringed lakes of Anderson Valley; while on either side stretch the slopes of the range, rugged, with vast exposures of granite, overlaid here and there by the lava of ancient craters, and bristling lower down with receding coniferous woods, that melt into the purple distance as the ridgy flanks of the range sink at last into the hazy plains.  On one side of this characteristic peak the foot-climber stops to rest on a depression where grass and flowers grow luxuriantly, and swarms of humming.birds hover over the floral feast, their brilliant  iridescent plumage flashing in the sun, and the movement of their wings filling the air with a bee-like drone.  Above all this beauty frown the bare volcanic cliffs and pinnacles that top the mountain-Eden and the desert side by side.  The upper Sierra is full of contrasts and surprises.  After tedious walking over rocky barrens, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The tourist who stops a few days at Summit Valley will find a walk along the railroad, through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:the snow-sheds, peculiarly entertaining.  These sheds, covering the track for thirty-five miles, are massive <illus entity="a022-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Section of Snow-shed.</P>
022.sgm:arched galleries of large timbers, shady and cool, blackened with the smoke of engines, sinuous, and full of strange sounds.  Through the vents in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:roof and the interstices between the roof-boards, the sunlight falls in countless narrow bars, pallid as moonlight.  Standing in a curve the effect is precisely that of the interior of some old Gothic cloister or abbey hall, with the light breaking through narrow side windows.  The footstep awakes echoes, and the tones of the voice are full and resounding.  A coining train announces itself miles away by the tinkling crepitation communicated along the rails, which gradually swells into a metallic ring, followed by a thunderous roar that shakes the ground; then the shriek of the engine.valve, and in a flash the engine itself bursts into view, the bars of sunlight playing across its dark front with kaleidoscopic effect.  There is ample space on either side of the track for pedestrians to stand as the train rushes past, but it looks as if it must crush everything before it, and burst through the very shed.  The approach of a train at night is heralded by a sound like the distant roaring of surf, half an hour before the train itself arrives; and when the locomotive dashes into view, the dazzling glare <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Summit Valley, lying three miles west of the highest point on the railroad, is six thousand seven hundred and seventy-four feet above the sea.  The air is keen and invigorating; there are few summer nights without frost, but the days are warm enough for health and comfort.  Nine miles southward, and six hundred and sixty-one feet lower, are the little known but remarkable "Summit Soda Springs."  The drive to these springs is one of the most picturesque and enjoyable in the Sierra.  Passing by fine dark cliffs of volcanic breccia to the right, and over low hills covered with tall, red firs, the road leads to Anderson Valley, a green meadow,  embosoming  three little lakes, which are perfectly idyllic in their quiet beauty.  These lakes are the remnants of a larger <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:single body which evidently once filled the whole valley.  Their outlet is through a narrow rocky gorge which empties into a tributary of the north fork of the American River.  The road follows the steep side of this gorge for a short distance, then reaches the summit of a ridge overlooking the ca&ntilde;on of the American, two thousand feet below.  Looking down this ca&ntilde;on, one sees rising from its blue depths the grand bulk of Eagle Cliff,--a rocky promontory whose top is probably eight thousand feet above the sea, and whose bald slope to the river presents a precipitous front of inaccessible steepness.  The largely exposed mass of this elevation makes a magnificently long outline across the sky, and when the ca&ntilde;on is hazy in the afternoon, and the sun declines towards the west, the sharp sculpture of the cliff is obscured behind a purple veil and presents a front of ethereal softness, like a vast shadow projected against the heavens, or a curtain let down from the infinite. Directly across the ca&ntilde;on, looking southward, the ridge separating the north American from the middle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:fork of the main river sweeps up in a still longer and grander line, which swells into snow-peaks from nine thousand to ten thousand feet high,--as high above the valley at the bottom of the ca&ntilde;on as Mount Washington is above the sea,--exposing four thousand feet of uplift to the glance, and weathered into a rich variety of pinnacled, domed, and serrated forms.  The descent into the ca&ntilde;on is a long zigzag through a lovely forest, in which the red fir, with its deeply corrugated bark, attains a height of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty feet, and frequently has a thickness at its base of four or five feet.  The yellow pine ( <HI REND="italics">P. ponderoso</HI>
022.sgm: ), even more massive, lifts its rich foliage above a bright and leather-colored trunk, the bark on which is almost smooth, and is divided into long plates.  But the monarch of these woods (though infrequent here) is the sugar pine ( <HI REND="italics">P. Lambertiana</HI>
022.sgm: ), whose smooth trunk, often six feet through, rises a hundred feet or more without a limb, perfectly straight, and is crowned with a most characteristic, irregular, and picturesque top, its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:slender cones, a foot or more in length, hanging from the tips of the boughs like ear-drops.  The eye constantly seeks out these magnificent trees, and every large one is hailed with admiring exclamations. Dwarf oak and manzanita, ceanothus and chemisal, are the prevailing underbrush.  In sunny open spaces, or on bits of timberless meadow, the rose, and thimble-berry, and a purple-blooming asclepia abound. Occasional large patches of a broad-leafed helianthus, when not in bloom, curiously resemble ill-kept tobacco fields.  About grassy springs a very fragrant white lily sparingly unveils its virgin beauty.  A spotted red species of the lily is more common, and small, low.flowering plants are numerous.  The southern slope of the ridge, descending to the soda springs, has a deep soil and is very thickly timbered.  At its base the small streams are lined with thickets of quaking aspen, cottonwood, and balm of Gilead, alternating with more continuous groves of alder and willow, where the prevailing undergrowth is a silkweed, four or five feet high, whose slender stalks, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:bearing narrow, sharply.cut leaves, are thickly crowned with purple blossoms.  Thickets of thorn afford cover for numerous quail.  Coniferous trees continue along the narrow banks of the river, but stand more apart. At the head of the ca&ntilde;on, the granite breaks down in huge benches, or shelves, presenting perpendicular faces as looked at from below.  The river tumbles a hundred feet, in cascades and falls, through a gorge of granite set in a lovely grove of cedar and pine, and pools of green water sparkle in clean basins of granite at the foot of every fall.  The rock of this gorge is richly browned and polished, except on the gray faces of the cliffs overhanging the stream.  Farther up the ca&ntilde;on, where the main crest of the Sierra describes the arc of a circle along the eastern sky, and is crowned by several high peaks, the granite is overlaid with lava and breccia, the product of the volcanoes which anciently dominated and overflowed this region, and whose relics are seen in the sharp cones of trachyte at the summit.  Near the junction of granite and volcanic rocks, numerous soda springs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:boil up through seams in the ledges, often in the very bed of the stream.  The water of these springs is highly charged with carbonic acid, is delightfully cool and pungent, and contains enough iron to make it a good tonic, while it has other saline constituents of much sanitary value.  Where the fountains bubble up they have formed mounds of ferruginous earth and soda crust, and their water stains the river banks and currents at intervals.  One of the largest and finest springs has been utilized, forming one of the most picturesque resorts in California.  About two miles below, the river has cut a narrow channel one hundred and fifty feet deep and one eighth of a mile long through solid granite.  This chasm is but a few rods wide at top, and only a few feet wide at bottom, where there are numerous smooth pot.holes, forming deep pools of wonderfully transparent water of an exquisite aquamarine tint.  There is enough descent to make the current empty from one pool to another in little cascades, over sharp pitcher.lips of polished rock. Lovers of angling are provoked to find no fish in these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:charming basins.  A few stunted but picturesque cedars are stuck like cockades in the clefts above, and the summits of the chasm walls are rounded and smoothed by ancient glacial action.  To this place was given the name of Munger's Gorge, by a gay picnic party last summer, in honor of the fine artist who sat with them on its brink, and was first to paint it.  A few miles below is a still deeper and grander gorge, at the foot of Eagle Cliff, where the precipitous granite walls rise a thousand feet or more, and the stream makes a sheer fall of a hundred feet. Above this fall fish cannot ascend, and so it happens the beautiful upper river is the angler's disappointment.  There are many fine climbs to  be made in the vicinity of the soda springs, including Mount Anderson and Tinker's Knob, companion peaks, separated only by a saddle-like depression a few hundred feet deep and scarcely a mile long, at the very head of the ca&ntilde;on, dividing it from the head of Tuckee River, on the eastern slope, by a few miles. These peaks, having an elevation from three thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:to three thousand five hundred feet above the river, and from nine thousand to nine thousand five hundred above the sea, can be climbed with comparative ease in a few hours.  Tinker's Knob, the higher of the two (named after an old mountaineer, with humorous reference to his eccentric nasal feature), is a sharp cone of trachyte, rising above a curving ridge composed partly of the same material and partly of lava and breccia overlying granite.  Its summit, only a few yards in extent, is flat, and paved with thin slabs of trachyte, and cannot be scaled without the aid of the hands in clambering over its steep slopes of broken rock.  Anderson is shaped like a mound cut in half and is composed of breccia (volcanic conglomerate), rising on the exposed face in perpendicular cliffs, similar to those which occur lower down the slopes.  The ridge crowned by these twin peaks is approached over a steep mountain of granite boulders, morainal in character, which leads to a tableland clad sparsely with yellow pines and firs.  Clambering over the broken rock to the top of Tinker's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:Knob a magnificent panorama is unfolded.  Over three thousand feet below winds the American River,--a ribbon of silver in a Concavity of sombre green, seen at intervals only in starry flashes, like diamonds set in emerald.  The eye follows the course of the ca&ntilde;on fifty or sixty miles down the western slope, marking the interlapping and receding ridges which melt at last into the hazy distance of the Sacramento Valley.  With the afternoon sun lighting up this slope, shooting its rays through the ranks of pines, and making glorious the smoke of burning forests or the river vapors, which soften without concealing the scene, the effect is wonderfully rich.  Looking north and south, the eye discerns a long procession of peaks, including Mount Stanford, the  Downieville Buttes, and Mount Lassen.  To the east lies Lake Tahoe, revealed for nearly its whole length, with environments of picturesque peaks.  There, too, lies its grand outlet, the basin of the Truckee River, which can be followed for fifty miles to the Truckee meadows in Nevada, past several railroad towns.  The line <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>A still finer outlook can be obtained from a somewhat higher peak to the southward, which heads the next ca&ntilde;on in that direction, and is approached over or along a succession of volcanic spurs, edged with sharp cliffs of breccia, of true drift conglomerate, and narrow plateaus of the same material resting on vertical walls of basalt.  The cliffs in one place are a dark Vandyke brown, faced with brilliant red and yellow lichens, and the talus at their base is a grassy slope of vivid green.  Opposite these, across a gulf perhaps two thousand feet deep, rises the bluff face of the peak we seek,--shaped like the South Dome of Yosemite, but a mass of crumbling breccia of a pale chocolate or drab color, enameled with patches of snow.  Some hard climbing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:is necessary to surmount this, but the view repays the labor.  Though much of the character described above, it is more extensive, giving a finer idea of the summit peaks for a distance of one hundred and fifty miles along the range.  Mount Lassen and the Black Butte, its neighbors,--volcanic cones both,--are beautifully exposed, and towers higher than any mountain points in that direction until Mount Shasta is reached, only seventy miles farther north.  Looming into view one after the other, as the eager climber ascends, they excite the mind and stimulate the weary limbs to renewed effort; and as the view, at first limited by near ridges, expands to a vast circle, melting on every side in the atmosphere, the soul expands with it, and the very flesh that holds it grows buoyant.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"What now to me the jars of life,<LB>Its petty cares, its harder throes ?<LB>The hills are free from toil and strife,<LB>And clasp me in their deep repose.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P>"They soothe the pain within my breast No power but theirs could ever reach; They emblem that eternal rest we cannot compass in our speech."<ANCHOR ID="n8-1">*</ANCHOR>
022.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1">John R. Ridge.</NOTE>
022.sgm:<P>A couple of thousand feet below are several little blue lakelets, fed by melting snows, in small basins of verdure.  Flowers bloom in gold and blue and purple beauty at their margins, and at the very edge of the frozen snow.  A fitful breeze sweeps a quick ripple of silvery wrinkles over the placid pools, and they are smooth and blue again in an instant. There is no cloud in the sky, but shadows of high. flying birds pass over the landscape below, reminding us of clouds, and intensifying the sensation of vast space and depth.  Recovered from the ecstasy of this grand scene, we begin to study the geology of the region, which is beautifully revealed.  First, an upheaval of granite, rupturing, displacing, and metamorphosing the beds of sedimentary rock deposited when the ocean lay over the sight of the range.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Perhaps a little finer exhibition of glacial action is that to be seen in the ca&ntilde;on of the South Yuba, leading out of Bear Valley, twenty-two miles west <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:of the railroad summit, and a little north from the Soda Spring region.  Bear Valley is about a thousand feet below the ridge along which the railroad passes.  It was anciently filled by a lake caused by the terminal moraine of  a glacier.  The cutting through finally drained the lake, and left, first a morass, then a meadow.  Going up the valley two or three miles, to the mouth of a deep gorge, the observing traveler will notice many glacier-polished hills of granite--bare mounds of rock that were carved into shape by a moving body of ice, ages ago. The gorge itself has been cut down to a depth of from three hundred to eight hundred feet through granite; and its walls, curved and sloped at their summits, and sharply cut and polished on their faces, frown over the stream that drops from one green bowl of rock to another at their clean-swept bases.  Immense pot-holes, still retaining the boulders that excavated them, are frequent through the bottom of this wild gorge.  Some of them have been worn through on one side and form little cascades.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:For the purpose of conveying the pure water of the Yuba to Nevada City a narrow flume covered with planks has been built through this gorge, which would else be inaccessible to the tourist.  Over this pathway one can walk into the rocky chasm for two miles.  The construction of the flume was a work of difficulty and danger.  It is supported partly by walls laid up on the outer side; partly by iron bars and wire cables fastened in the solid rock, which hold it in suspension  over perpendicular depths. The face of the rock had to be blasted to make way for it, and the blasting could be effected in places only by letting men down from the top of the cliff with ropes, and they drilled and charged the powder.holes, hung in mid-air.  One poor fellow, who put off a blast prematurely, was blown from his airy perch across the river and dashed in pieces.  Walking securely along this  flume, one looks down a sheer precipice into the yawning river-holes far below, enjoying their transparent green and the snowy play of their cascades, and wondering at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Returning to the summit, let us leave the railroad at the point where it begins its descent of the eastern slope, and climb the tree-covered ridge and bald granite cliffs overlooking it to the left.  A thousand feet above the pass will give an elevation about eight thousand feet above the sea, commanding a view of <illus entity="a022-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CROWN OF THE SIERRA.</P>
022.sgm:Donner Lake and the valley of the Truckee, over two thousand feet below, and down the eastern slope to the transverse mountain lines of Nevada, sixty miles off  Right and left the view is obstructed by crags and pinnacles of bare granite, which loom up cold and gray against the intense blue, except when the morning or evening light warms and empurples them, or tinges them with rose, as seen afar in the last glow of sunset.  Among these rocky summits lies Lake Angela, gemmed in the granite and girdled with fir groves and narrow fringes of grass and flowers,--a cup of stone, decorated on its sides with Nature's own graceful arabesque.  Donner Lake is sunk in a narrow, oblong ca&ntilde;on, cut through the granite by one of the ancient glaciers of the eastern slope, a tributary, probably, of the enormous ice-river which once put out of the basin of Lake Tahoe and occupied the present channel of the Truckee.  The descent to Donner from the granite peaks at its western end is abrupt and rugged, and the view from those peaks is remarkable for its stern grandeur.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:was near this point that Bierstadt made the studies for his most faithful picture of California scenery.  At <illus entity="a022-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Donner Lake, Mount Sanford in the distance.</P>
022.sgm:the base of the cliffs the lake, an irregular oval three miles long, and half a mile to a mile wide, steel-gray <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>But the gem of all scenes in this part of the Sierra is Lake Tahoe, situated about fifteen miles southerly from Donner, between the double crests of the range, measuring about twenty-three miles long from northeast to southwest, by about fifteen miles wide at its widest, having an altitude of six thousand two hundred and eighteen feet above the sea, and being surrounded by mountains that rise from one thousand to four thousand feet higher, volcanic for the most part, except in the southwest, where they are granitic.  The favorite road follows for fifteen miles the banks of its outlet, Truckee <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:River,--a rapid stream of remarkably clear water, having a width of from sixty to a hundred feet, and flowing over a bed of boulders, between groves of alder, willow, maple, cottonwood, and aspen.  The heavily timbered  ridges, putting down in nearly straight lines from the summit, rise on either side of this stream to a height of from one thousand to two thousand feet, at a sharp angle, and are composed of volcanic rock, originating with the extinct craters of the crest, and sometimes exposed in high and picturesque cliffs of a rich color.  Extensive logging operations are conducted along the Truckee, and it is one of the sights of the trip to witness the shooting of the logs along timber-ways for one thousand two hundred feet down the side of the ridge.  They make the descent in thunder and smoke, and each log, as it strikes the water, will send up a beautiful column of spray a hundred and fifty feet, resembling the effect of a submarine explosion.  The banks of the river are strewn with granite boulders and cobbles, which could only have been brought from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:head of the lake by a glacier, since the adjoining ridges are entirely volcanic clear down to the stream. Indeed, glacial marks are plain enough on the rocks about the lake, the polish even remaining on one exposure of volcanic rock on the eastern shore near Tahoe City.  Imposing as must have been the Tahoe or Truckee glacier, it was narrower below the present lake-bed than one of three glaciers still living on the flanks of Mount Shasta,--the Agassiz Glacier, as named by Clarence King,--which has a width of about three miles; whereas the Truckee is hardly so wide as the Whitney Glacier,--about half a mile.  The first sight of the lake is very striking as one breaks from the sombre-hued forests of pine and fir, and gazes on a wide expanse of blue and gray water, sparkling in the sun, and relieved by a distant background of violet-colored mountains.  There is an exciting freshness in the air, and the spirits are elate with freedom and joy. It is a treat to watch the alternations of color on the water.  Prof. John Leconte, who recently made some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:interesting observations on this and other phenomena of the lake, says that, wherever the depth exceeds two hundred feet, the water assumes a beautiful shade of "Marie Louise blue."  Where it is shallow, and the bottom is white, it assumes an exquisite emerald green color, as in the famous  Emerald Cove.  Near the southern and eastern shores the white sandy bottom brings out the green color very strikingly.  The same authority informs us that his soundings indicate that there is a deep subaqueous channel traversing the whole lake in its greatest dimensions, or north and south.  At several points in this channel the depth exceeds one thousand five hundred feet.  The temperature of the water decreases with increasing depth to about seven hundred or eight hundred feet, and below this depth it remains sensibly the same down to one thousand five hundred feet.  The constant prevalent temperature below seven hundred or eight hundred feet is about 39&deg; Fahrenheit,--the point at which fresh water always attains its maximum density.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:temperature of the water above the depth named was found, during the summer, to be from 41&deg; to 67&deg;.  Owing to the above facts of depth and temperature, the lake never freezes, except in shallow and detached portions.  As Professor Leconte says, before the conditions preceding freezing can occur, the water, for a depth of eight hundred feet, must cool down to 39&deg;, for, until it does, the colder substratum will not float to the surface.  The winter is over before this equalization can be effected, and so the water does not freeze.  Owing also to the lower water being at a constant temperature only 7&deg; above the freezing point, drowned bodies reaching it are not inflated by the gases resulting from decomposition at a higher temperature, and, therefore, do not float.  The transparency of the water is so great that small white objects sunk in it can be seen to a depth of more than one hundred feet. Sailing or rowing over the translucent depths, not too far from shore, one sees the beautiful trout far below, and sometimes their shadows on the light bottom.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:It is like hovering above a denser atmosphere. But the surface of the lake easily ruffles into dangerous waves under a sudden wind, and a number of incautious persons have been lost in these cold depths which never give up their dead.  The beaches of white sand, or clean, bright pebbles, rich in polished agate, jasper, and carnelian, margined with grassy meads where the strawberry ripens its luscious fruit, and running close to park-like groves of pine, fir, and cedar, afford delightful rambles.  The shorelines are informal and picturesque, opening into green coves and bays, where sometimes a cascade comes foaming down from the snow-peaks, or pushing out sharp points  of  timber and  long strips of reedy marsh, leading to valleys where smaller lakes are found glassed amid  a close  frame-work of rocky heights.  One of the prettiest of these side lake-lets rejoices in  the poetic name of  Fallen Leaf Lake, from the circumstance that its placid surface is often strewn with the leaves of deciduous trees blown from the banks.  Another is called Cascade <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EL RIO DE LAS PLUMAS.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>RIVER of feathers--calm and graceful stream!<LB>They name thee well.  The yellow willows droop<LB>Toward thy tranquil face like plumes, and seem<LB>At times to kiss thee, as fond lovers stoop<LB>To kiss the eyes that mirror back their own.<LB>And in a line of beauty gently flows<LB>Thy winding water, to the world unknown,--<LB>The sordid, plodding world,--but not to those<LB>For whom the river or the brook hath all<LB>The wonder of old ocean's stormy flood,<LB>Whose minds see beauty in the leaves of fall<LB>As in eve's fleecy cloudlets dyed in blood.<LB>To such, dear stream, thou hast a charm; the flash<LB>Of silver lightning from thy glassy face.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Inclosed by foliage like a lake, and dash<LB>Of thy broad, foaming rapids, have a place<LB>Alike in admiration's seat, and fix<LB>Upon the often grieved and grieving mind<LB>Those recollections of delight that mix<LB>And brighten others of a darker kind.<LB>For all the beauty of a lovely scene<LB>Beams not upon the eye to live no more<LB>Than while we gaze : ah no!   Its spell serene<LB>Sinks in the heart for aye, and when we pore<LB>In after years o'er mem'ry's tinted page,<LB>That lovely landscape rises to the view,<LB>Attired in all the charms of early age,<LB>And seems our primal joyance to renew.<LB>Again we see the triple peaks that rise<LB>Like purple isles above the yellow grain,<LB>As lonely 'gainst the deep and cloudless skies<LB>As are the pyramids on Egypt's plain.<LB>Here, in a park-like grove of mighty oaks,<LB>Whose trunks are crimson with the poison vine,<LB>The acorn-hiding bird, with rapid strokes,<LB>Startles the echoes where the deer recline.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Afar we hear the laugh of Indian girls,<LB>Or murmur of the red man's alder flute:<LB>Their camp smoke floats away in pallid curls:<LB>The breeze sinks low, and then the air is mute,<LB>Save that at eve we hear the cricket's keen<LB>And quiv'ring music, or the hollow note<LB>Of water-bubbling frog, and catch between<LB>The turtle's plaint, low in his feathered throat;<LB>Or listen to the hooting of the owl,--<LB>The ghostly owl, that only stirs at night,<LB>When darkness wraps the landscape like a cowl<LB>And superstition shudders with affright.<LB>But here are peace and love, that brood alway<LB>In blessed calm above a witching scene;<LB>And here the soul, a flower that shuns the day,<LB>Opes to the night and feels a joy serene.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>HEAD-WATERS OF THE SACRAMENTO.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>THE upper Sacramento Valley is a vestibule that leads to the high altar of Mount Shasta.  At first, a broad, level plain,--so broad that the Coast Range and Sierra Nevada, on either side, are but dimly seen, low in the hazy horizon,--it narrows going northward, until its mountain walls, drawing nearer and nearer together, intermix at last, leaving only a channel for the waters of the Sacramento River, lying between high and steep ridges parallel with its course for seventy miles, and then opening into a series of small valleys, at a considerable elevation, encircled by loftier mountains, where burst forth the springs that feed the river and its branches.  Dividing several of these small valleys, at the very head of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:Sacramento, rises the noble bulk of Shasta, a landmark to the traveler in the great valley below for a hundred miles or more, and visible from high points to the southward for quite two hundred miles,--a snowy cone projected against the sky, without a rival peak.,  To the pedestrian or horseman, who makes his way slowly toward this landmark, it is a guide and an inspiration for days.  In the early times, when the great valley was one wide field of flowers in the spring, or a rippling sea of wild oats in the summer, the distant aspect of the mountain, through the wonderfully clear atmosphere of this climate, and in contrast with so much vernal color, was peculiarly fine. Many a pioneer gold-hunter retains still, in whatever different and remote scene he may now be, the vivid impression of its beauty.  And even yet the approach to Shasta is full of allurement, at the beginning of summer, when green and flowery tints prevail, and before the smoke of forest fires has spread an obscuring haze through the sky.  At this season the valley itself is enjoyable for its verdure and brilliant <illus entity="a022-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOUNT SHASTA, FROM CASTLE LAKE.</P>
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022.sgm:bloom; for its clean, open groves of large oaks; for its denser timber-lines along the dry channels of winter streams; for its gradual upheaval into the mound-like swells that prelude the foot-hills ; for the cool, sharp vision of Sierra snow-crests to the eastward, and the lower and softer wall of purple which marks  the Coast Range.  The Sacramento River winds slowly its dark greenish current, at first between low banks fringed with brier and grape thickets, overtopped with sycamores, alders, willows, and cotton-woods; then  between  bluffs of clay or gravel, where the undergrowth is missing.  Over the wide, level surface, in some directions, there is not a tree to break the monotony; but along the horizon, on warm days, are cheating visions of trees and water.  It is a relief to strike the oaken parks again, and to see the mountain chains drawing closer.  Here at the right stands Mount Lassen, dominating this portion of the Sierra, though only the centre of a colony of ancient volcanoes, whose crater-cones have an elevation ranging from nine thousand to nearly eleven thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>At the point where Mount Lassen is most plainly seen from the valley, the foothills of the interblending ranges are distant only a few miles, and to this point the traveler can now go from Sacramento by rail, in the cars of the Oregon division of the Central Pacific Railroad--distance one hundred and seventy miles.  The next seventy-five miles of the journey, to the foot of Mount Shasta, is made in one of the stages which runs through from Redding, the railway terminus, to Roseville, the southern terminus of the railroad in Oregon.  Leaving Sacramento at 2.20 P.M., Redding is reached at midnight of the same day. In half an hour the stage ride begins, and lasts until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:about four o'clock the next afternoon, when Strawberry Valley is reached, about two hundred and forty-five miles from Sacramento--time twenty-five hours. By this method of travel, much of the upper Sacramento Valley, and of the foot-hill region north of Redding, is lost to observation, either going or returning.  The night ride on the stage over a rough road, especially in the late summer when the dust is thick, is very uncomfortable and wearisome; yet it has a certain strange interest.  The large head and side lights to the stage, <HI REND="italics">alias</HI>
022.sgm: "mud-wagon," cast weird reflections on the deep cuts in the rocky hillsides, and on the ranks of gray-trunked oaks or dusty thickets of underbrush.  At the stations, placed at intervals of twelve miles, sleepy hostlers come out with fresh relays of horses, and their half.unwilling talk with the drivers reveals queer glimpses of lonely wayside life, with its paucity of incident and topic. Here and there distant hill-sides are in a lurid blaze,--the effect of some careless camper's fire, which is spreading destruction among the noblest coniferous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>As day dawns, the foot-hills, with their several species of oak,--smaller than those in the valley,--of ceanothus, syringa, manzanita, and poison-oak, have given place to long, high, straight ridges, clothed thick with pine, and fir, and spruce.  These ridges, composed of metamorphic and volcanic rocks, form a deep, broad ca&ntilde;on, unlike the ca&ntilde;ons of the Sierra to the southward in this, that the river is still clear and unobstructed by mining wash, that its banks have some level space on either side, and are not divested of their beautiful vegetation, including groves of conifers, which spread down from the ridges, mixed with dark-limbed, slender, and graceful oaks.  As the mining operations along the upper Sacramento are very small, and confined to the primitive methods of cradling and sluicing, no hydraulic diggings having been found, the stream retains its primitive character, and for the greater part of its length its banks are virgin. The contrast it presents to eyes accustomed to the choked and muddy streams of the deep gravel region southward, whose original banks and bars have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:buried fifty to a hundred feet in mining <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm:, and whose higher banks have been stripped of timber, is delightful.  The road follows along the steep side of the ridge on the west of the river, sometimes rising several hundred feet above the stream, then plunging down to its very channel, leaving and returning to it in picturesque coquettishness.  The river itself is an almost constant rapid.  Having a softer material than the granite-bedded Sierra streams to cut through, it has worn its channel low down on a nearly uniform grade, and nowhere on its course, from the foot of Shasta to the plain, has it any of the falls and cascades which characterize the Sierra streams.  It has a beauty all its own, however.  In a succession of riffles, whose foam is tinged with blue or tea-green, it dances and sparkles and sings over its clean bed of boulders, over exposed ledges of bedrock, over bars of gray gravel.  At intervals, masses of basalt-like rock rise in columnar forms or make a terrace of many-sided slabs, at the edge of the transparent current.  For fifty miles the water is fringed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:with rich masses of very large, round, and scalloped leaves, slightly drooping from a centre stalk, big and shapely enough for parasols.  These growths, a species of saxifrage, along exposures of volcanic rock that form ledges in the water or rise in cliffs above, characterize this stream to within fifteen miles of its source.  Ascending its course, the ridges rise higher and higher, until those immediately hemming it in, scarcely half a mile apart, reach an elevation of two thousand feet above its level, their thickly wooded flanks plunging down very abruptly, and their straight-drawn summits bristling with arrow-headed conifers, through which, and through their hazy or smoky shades, the sunlight breaks in radiant bars, filling the whole ca&ntilde;on with a mellow glory.  Always the rippling laugh and song of the rapid river, foaming between its green rows of parasols, with their twin rows of reflections where the water is still; always those straight, high ridges, with their terebinthine woods and floods of broken beams.  Watching the river, we can often see the dark-backed salmon pushing up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>From time immemorial the upper Sacramento and its tributaries, the Pit and McCloud, which closely resemble it, have been the favorite fishing resorts of the Indian tribes once so large and numerous in this region.  Here they gathered in multitudes to spear the salmon and hold protracted festivals, of which fish-bakes, primitive gambling games, and dancing, were the leading diversions.  These gatherings, though in sadly diminished numbers, still occur in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:the height of the summer fishing season, and at intervals along the Sacramento may be seen the conical bark huts laid up by the Indians, occasionally still tenanted by picturesque but filthy groups; while far into the stream, over deep pools, project the poles, supported on crotches, upon which the red man stands and hurls his spear--his nude, shapely form suggesting the idea of a bronze image, as, erect and still, with eye intent and arm uplifted, he poises his weapon for a throw.  It is not strange the poor savages resented the intrusion of the whites upon these picturesque and productive rivers--an intrusion accompanied by much brutality and violence, compared with which the retaliatory acts of the Indians lose half their atrocity.  It may possibly have been an impulse of romantic sympathy, as well as mere recklessness, which led Joaquin Miller, in his uncurbed, wayward youth, to consort a while with the Shastas. Following in his footsteps through this region, one discovers the source of much of his best poetry.  On the Sacramento, the Pit, and the McCloud, he made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>But to return to our journey.  Following the up. per Sacramento, the view of Shasta which can be had from the big valley is quite lost.  Intervening mountains near the eye shut it off.  One looks constantly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:forward in hope that these will open and reveal the supreme height.  Rising from every plunge to the river to some point commanding a larger view, we look and look in vain, until within fifteen miles of the end of our wearisome staging.  Then we see, first,--from a slight elevation of the road overlooking an ox-bow bend of the river, which in closes a level bar overgrown with conifers,--an abrupt and jagged ridge of bare granite, thrust up through the slate and overlying lava of the surrounding country to an elevation of two thousand five hundred feet above the valley.  This ridge is a spur of the Trinity Mountains, putting in from the western side, and terminating in a peak called Castle Rock, whose extremely narrow and sharply serrated crest, of an ashen.gray color, presents the appearance of spires, pinnacles, and domes, whose sides are nearly perpendicular.  The lower slopes of this beautiful ridge are covered with heavy forests of fir. It reminds one of the Yosemite cliffs, and is probably the most beautiful uplift of granite outside of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:that wonderful valley.  When the atmosphere is clear and the sun is in the eastern heaven, the bare rock is exposed in all its hard anatomy and native coldness of tint.  But when the sun declines toward the west, the gray granite crags become violet, deepening with evening into purple, while a soft lithographic shading subdues their ruggedness and hides the detail of their sculpture.  As the sun goes down behind them, the brilliant purple and crimson haze which enwraps the peak and fills forest and valley with glory, makes the scene indescribably fine.  A daring engineer of the Oregon Railway climbed the tallest of the splintered rocks comprising this peak, at some personal risk.  Hunters have pursued the deer to the base of the highest crag, and on one occasion a hard-pressed buck sprung over a precipice ,and was dashed to death below.  The Indian women used to climb nearly to the top to gather the manzanita berries which grow on the sloping <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm:, until one was caught in a slide and killed by the rocks striking her head from above, with which accident <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Continuing up the Sacramento, whose channel has now reached an elevation of about two thousand three hundred feet, we reach a group of chalybeate springs, containing chloride of soda in the largest proportion, and heavily charged with carbonic acid. The finest of these springs, eight miles from Strawberry Valley, known as Fry's Soda Springs, had formed a large mound of soda, silica, and iron before it was welled and covered for the use of visitors resorting to it regularly.  Close by flows the swift, clear current of the Sacramento.  A swarded peach-orchard, with its bright grass, the light foliage of its trees and their burdens of blossom or fruit, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:contrasts prettily with the sombre color and monotonous forms of the coniferous woods adjoining.  Immediately behind the orchard rises a very straight and steep mountain ridge, quite two thousand feet above the valley,--an immense wall of forest, so precipitous that the growth of tall timber on its flank is a wonder.  This ridge is a grand object in the afternoon, when the declining sun shoots his rays in long lines through its woods, turning smoke or haze into a veil of softened glory.  It is while descending an incline toward the Soda Springs that the first glimpse of Shasta is caught, looming far above such a line of timbered ridges as that described, a cone bare of vegetation, of a pinky ash color where the snow has melted, ethereally soft in the hazy or smoky perspective of summer, but earlier in the season sharply relieved against a clear sky, with all its sculpture revealed, and its crown entirely white with snow.  The sight of this great peak, so long sought, at so much labor, begets a sudden oblivion to dust and fatigue.  The spirits <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Strawberry Valley, or Flat, as it is called by some, is the first opening into a series of small, elevated valleys which stretch about the base of the peak, extending <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:on its western side through Siskiyou County, and including Shasta, Cottonwood, and Scott valleys to the north.  Strawberry embraces an area of only a few miles, broken by encroaching belts of conifers which divide it into several parts, and bounded on the west by the lofty Scott Mountain,--a range whose crest rises at least five thousand feet above the valley, and is spotted with snow through the whole year.  The northern limit of the valley is Black Butte, the highest of a large number of inferior volcanic cones dotting the plateau northwest of Shasta.  From the beautiful regularity of its outline, this sugar-loaf mass of trachytic rock was named Cone Mountain by the Geological Survey; but the local and popular name is that given above, and was suggested by the dark color of the peak, which is exaggerated by contrast with the bright verdure of Strawberry Valley, and with the pallid tints of the grand mountain adjoining.  Black Butte has an elevation of more than three thousand feet above the plain at its base, which makes it over six thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:five hundred feet above the sea.  Away from the belittling bulk of Shasta, it would be a very imposing peak, and even where it is, by reason of its sharp and sudden uplift, and its isolated position, it is a prominent and picturesque object.  Strawberry Valley derives its name from the abundant growth of wild strawberries over its surface.  This delicious fruit can be picked, though in small quantities then, as late as September.  A large circular area, formerly a marsh, fronting Sisson's house, and extending to the timbered base of Shasta, has been drained by the settlers--chiefly by Sisson himself--and cultivated to timothy.  By means of irrigating ditches, this meadow is kept beautifully green through the whole summer and autumn, when other valleys are brown and parched.  The small creeks and brooks which flow together here from Shasta and Scott mountains, forming the main Sacramento, meander through the timbered or open spaces of the valley, until they reach a common outlet into the ca&ntilde;on at Soda Springs.  Looking from the porch of Sisson's house, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Isolated by the valleys around its base from the ridges of the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range, which in this region are conterminous, if not quite intermixed, and showing so much of its real elevation, Mount Shasta has the finest exposure of all the lofty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:summits in California.  Indeed, there are few mountains anywhere in the world which stand so apart, and are seen to such great advantage.  Mount Whitney, in southern California,--its superior in height by five hundred or six hundred feet, and its only proved superior in the United States, outside of Alaska,--is but one of a number of companion peaks, of little inferior height, rising a few thousand feet above the general elevation of a long crest-line, accessible by a quite gradual approach on horseback. The peaks about the railroad summit, having an elevation of from nine thousand to ten thousand feet, are reached by an ascent, on the railroad or wagon.road grades (which go within three thousand or four thousand feet of their tops), not less than one hundred miles long.  But arrived at the base of Shasta, you are only three thousand five hundred and sixty.seven feet above the sea, and make the remaining elevation of nearly eleven thousand feet to the top, on horseback and afoot, in the short distance of fourteen or fifteen miles.  Standing out so boldly, Shasta is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:conspicuous landmark over an area several hundred miles in extent, and the view of it from any of the valleys at its foot is alone ample reward for the long journey necessary to obtain it.  The study of it from Strawberry Valley is a constant source of pleasure, for many days in succession, from the early morning, when it is cold and austere, until the evening, when it is warm and ruddy with a delicious Alpine glow, lasting forty minutes after the valley is in cool shadow. In the clearest atmosphere, and close as it is, the twin cones of its summit look soft and smooth, as if clad with soil, where they are not covered or streaked with snow.  Innocent and inviting as are those slopes, except for the steep angle of their inclination, we know they are rough piles of broken rocks, of toppling slabs, and sharp volcanic clinkers.  But how lovely they look!  How delicious in their prevalent tint of pinkish drab, streaked with the red of lava edges and the white of frozen snow, and relieved so high up against the blue sky; while low down is the abruptly terminating line of dark green firs and pines, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:sloping to the bright grassy meadow, at the foot of of all.  In some lights, and especially when the atmosphere is hazy, the peak above the timber-line is a delicate <HI REND="italics">mauve</HI>
022.sgm:<P>This description applies only to the summer aspect of Shasta, for from November or December until June or July, the perfectly clear atmosphere shows a distinct and massive cone of snow, glittering in the sun or veiled only in clouds.  The amount and duration of the snow depend upon the character of the winter.  If that is mild, the snow will not fall so deep nor last so long on the lower slopes as in ordinary seasons.  But there is always more snow on the higher portions of the mountain than appears from the foot, especially from the valley on the southwestern side, where the influence of the sun is greatest.  Depressions invisible from below will be, found, on reaching them, to be wide-stretching fields of frozen snow and ice; and the northern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The winter climate of the valley is mild and equable.  The snow-fall is neither deep nor lasting, and the thermometer seldom drops below the freezing point  There is not much increase in the volume of the streams, and the temperature of their water is hardly changed from that of summer, since at all seasons it flows directly from icy sources.  While the winter is so bland below, on that lofty peak above it is arctic in severity, and terrific storms can be seen raging there when the valley may be comparatively exempt.  Thunder and lightning are rare phenomena, usually, in California; but the great volcanic mass of Shasta acts like a magnet, and the electric storms about it are sometimes awful.  The subtile fluid fuses and drills the rocky peaks at the summit, leaving large holes in the outcrop which are glazed with a green vitreous mineral, not unlike obsidian; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:convex blisters of the same substance adhering to the surface of the rock, and shivering to atoms when one tries to remove them.  The destruction of trees by some of these electrical bursts is very great.  Yellow or sugar pines, four or five feet through and two hundred feet high, will be literally torn to pieces and scattered over a wide area.  One yellow pine of nearly this size, as the writer can testify, growing in a meadow near Sisson's, was torn as if by an explosion of giant powder, much of it having been thrown high up, black streaks being left along the lines of cleavage in the trunk, and the innumerable fragments of trunk and branches scattered over an area of about seven acres, disposed on the ground in  rays, like the spokes of a wheel. Trees shivered by lightning, and tall splintered trunks, are frequently seen in the forests of the valley and on the lower flanks of the mountain.  Even in the summer, severe wind-storms, accompanied by thunder and lightning, sometimes occur, and parties making the ascent in clear weather have been overtaken near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The best time to make the ascent of Shasta is in July.  In this month the atmosphere is still perfect]y clear, and the snow is sufficiently melted to afford good camping ground at the point where the foot climb begins.  Later in the summer, the view from the top is apt to be obscured by haze or smoke ; indeed, as late as September or October, before there have been any rains, the smoke from forest. fires (which were raging last year, at intervals from Redding to Yreka, a distance of one hundred and ten miles) will be apt to hide the lower country completely, inflicting a severe disappointment on the tourist.  A few persons go up every summer of late years, including an occasional woman.  Most of the parties making the ascent have the guidance of J. H. Sisson, whose knowledge of the country, and of its wild inhabitants, which he imparts in a pleasant manner, contributes much to the interest of the trip. He has lived about Shasta for sixteen years, is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:hunter of skill and experience, and what is more rare, an earnest lover of the beautiful in nature. Under the average height of men, and weighing only one hundred and thirty pounds, he is lithe and strong, has great powers of endurance, and much courage.  Educated in New York State to go through Hamilton College, a wild instinct took him west before he could enter that institution, and he found the career he loved best at the foot of Shasta, where he has made a pleasant home for his family, and is planning sagacious schemes of improvement, in anticipation of the day when the railroad shall bring hundreds of tourists every summer to the spot that he believes to be the loveliest in America.  And, indeed, when the railroad shall have made the Shasta region easily accessible, it will be the finest resort, next to Yosemite, in the Pacific States, for mere scenical enjoyment, and for hunting and fishing far superior to the Yosemite, if not to any other portion of California.  Deer are very plentiful in the mountains, and even in the valley thickets and woods.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:Before the failure of his sight, Sisson killed from sixty to eighty a season, with his single rifle.  The brown and grizzly bear, quail, and grouse are also plentiful.  All the rivers are stocked with splendid trout; the McCloud River--easily reached from this point by wagon-road-- containing a rare species, called the Dolly Varden, from its large, red spots, known to the Indians as the <HI REND="italics">Wye-dul-dicket</HI>
022.sgm:, and found in no other stream in California, and nowhere out of the State, except possibly in Oregon.  This is believed to be the same fish described in some of the railroad reports as <HI REND="italics">Salmo spectabulis</HI>
022.sgm:.  Besides the true brook or river trout, the Sacramento and McCloud contain the large salmon trout, and in the season--at its height in July--are filled with salmon.  Castle Lake is one of the best fly-fishing places in the State.  As this whole northern region is wild and little explored, there being few settlers apart from the stage.stations along the one road running between Redding and Yreka, game has not been thinned out or scared away, and there is an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE BIRTH OF BEAUTY.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>AN old volcano, sealed in ice and snow,<LB>Looks from its airy height supreme<LB>On lesser peaks that dwindle small below;<LB>On valleys hazy in the beam<LB>Of summer suns; on distant lakes that flash<LB>Their starry rays in greenwood dense;<LB>On ca&ntilde;ons where blue rapids leap and dash,<LB>And mosses cling to cliffs immense.<LB>Here on this height sublime combustion dire<LB>Once blazed and thundered, pouring down<LB>Resistless cataracts of rocky fire,<LB>That from the cloven mountain's crown,<LB>Around its flanks in every gaping rift,<LB>O'er meads that girdled green its base,<LB>Spread out a deep, entombing drift,<LB>A tongue of ruin to efface.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">In throes of terror Nature brings about<LB>What gives to man the most delight;<LB>No scene of peaceful beauty comes without<LB>Such birth, as day succeeds to night.<LB>A mountain gem of pearly ray serene,<LB>Our old volcano shows afar;<LB>Fills all the panting soul with pleasure keen,<LB>And draws it heavenward like a star.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ASCENT OF MOUNT SHASTA.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>MOUNTlNG horses accustomed to the trail, and taking along an extra animal, packed with blankets and provisions, our little party--consisting of the writer and his wife, Sisson the guide, and one of his <HI REND="italics">employ&eacute;s</HI>
022.sgm: --leave Sisson's house in Strawberry Valley, at nine o'clock in the morning, bound for the top of Mount Shasta.  It is a warm September day, and the lower atmosphere is hazy and pungently odorous with the smoke of burning forests.  We follow the stage.road a short distance northward, the Black Butte facing us, and then turn into the woods to the right, making directly for the peak.  For two or three miles the trail, which we have to pursue in single file through tall thickets, leads across level ground, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:shaded by a noble forest of pine, fir, cedar, and spruce, differing little from the same growths at about the same elevation in all parts of the Sierra Nevada, except that the trees are more openly disposed, in park-like groves, and have little of the bright yellow moss on their trunks which is characteristic of the Sierra forests within the line of deep winter snow.  The sugar pine remains the grandest tree, but the firs and yellow pines are also very straight, tall, and handsome.  The underbrush consists of the wild rose (growing here four to eight feet high), the ceanothus, the chestnut-like chincapin, a bright.leaved, fragrant laurel (locally known as the spice.bush), and more rarely the manzanita.  There are also large patches of huckleberries.  These thickets are often so dense that it would be hard work to follow the slight trail through them on foot; and, even on horseback, one must watch against entangling his stirrups.  Hundreds of species of herbaceous plants occur, and nearly all the shrubs and plants are bloomers.  When the rose thickets are in blossom, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:the air is delicious with their fragrance, and the honey-bee--which has become wild in these woods, as elsewhere in the Sierra--finds great stores of food.  Late in the summer the balm of Gilead, which grows along the streams, distills from its leaves a sugary secretion, called honey.dew, on which the bees also feed.  One swarm of bees in the valley, which was hived about the first of June, made from that time until September fifteenth,--say in three months and a half,--no less than one hundred pounds of fine honey.  It is pleasant to note the absence of the poison.oak, which nowhere in California flourishes within the snow-belt, giving out all along the Sierra at an elevation of between three thousand and four thousand feet.  A little to the left of the trail, as we cross the valley toward the peak, at the foot of a ridge about one thousand five hundred feet high, which is one of the lower spurs of Shasta, leaps suddenly out of the earth a foaming torrent, clear and icy cold, whose two streams at once unite and form a good.sized creek.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:is the source of the main Sacramento.  To see the two mouths of its exit, it is necessary to push aside a tangled undergrowth, and to bend low.  Between these vents is a large chalybeate spring, which seems to have a different origin, and stains the earth between the parted, snowy waters a rusty red.  There is a remarkable richness in the flora of this locality, embracing, among the bushes and small trees, species of the willow, alder, cornus (resembling the eastern dog-wood), birch, hazel, elder, black oak, yew, maple ( <HI REND="italics">Acer circinatum</HI>
022.sgm:, probably), wild rose, chincapin, choke.cherry, black raspberry, gooseberry; and, among the smaller growths, the snow-ball, strawberry, pennyroyal, besides several vines and small herbaceous plants, ferns, mosses, and water plants.  The springs that feed all this vegetation are undoubtedly the outpouring of a subterranean stream, originating in the melting snow and ice of Shasta, and drained through fissures and caverns of volcanic rock.  One of the characteristics of this mountain is the disappearance of most of the torrents that have birth near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:its summit, through the broken rock and porous <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm: of its slopes above the timber line; and as it is well known that there are cavernous passages in the lava covering all the lower flanks and base of the mountain, nothing is more probable than that the lost streams of the peak reappear in the enormous springs of the valley.  Wild animals of all kinds, including the bear and deer, at different seasons come to these springs to drink, and are especially fond of the salty water of the chalybeate spring.  Riding through the forest on the lower flank of the mountain, which begins to rise from near this point, we met several deer, both going and returning, and higher up twice crossed fresh bear-tracks, and saw the recent wallow of his plantigrade lordship.  There is a peculiar charm in following the trail of the various wild creatures of the Sierra woods, or catching glimpses of them in their privacy.  Nothing is more fresh and graceful than the bounding movement of the deer, especially.  At this season the does and fawns are seen alone, the antlered bucks having retired <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>As we rise above the valley, at first by a gentle ascent, the character of the forest changes.  The pines are less frequent, the firs are more so, and the undergrowth is less thick and varied.  The ten or twelve species of conifers are reduced at last to three or four,--yellow pine, Douglas spruce, and a large fir.  The surface becomes rough with broken masses of basalt and other lava rocks, part of the outflow of the slumbering volcanoes above.  An unusually rugged field of this material, where vegetation is nearly exhausted, and where the horses bruise their pasterns at every step, is called by Sisson "The Devil's Garden."  At an elevation of about seven thousand feet the pines give out entirely, and we go through a belt of silver-leaf firs ( <HI REND="italics">Picea nobilis</HI>
022.sgm: ), a very symmetrical, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:beautiful tree, with a juicy, greenish-tinted bark, foliage of a faint tea.green color at the tips, almost silvery in certain lights; the trunk small in diameter, but straight and taper as a mast, and reaching a height of one hundred and fifty feet.  These handsome firs scent the air, while they shut out the rays of the sun and give the sky a darker color as seen through their dense capitals.  The beauty of the trees on the lower flanks of Shasta has become known in Europe, where their seeds are in demand.  Sisson has orders for forty to sixty pounds of coniferous seeds yearly, from Germany alone.  As the small cones of the silver-fir grow at the very top of the tree, he has to climb one hundred and fifty feet to get the choicest.  From the lower boughs of many of these trees hang long streamers of black moss, curiously like coarse human hair, and calling up fancies of Absalom caught by his tresses.  On the up. per edge of this belt of silver-firs we come upon the path of the avalanche.  Vast snow-slides have mowed wide and long swaths through the timber, strewing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:the earth with broken trunks and branches, which are partly buried in ash-like <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm:.  The boundary of these slides is often marked by a bright, little grove of young firs, more delicate in color than the adjoining forest.  In this region of avalanches, also, the <HI REND="italics">Pinus flexilis</HI>
022.sgm: --last tree to maintain life in the upper Sierra--begins to appear as a shrub, becomes a small tree as the firs give out, and expires as a shrub again at the last limit of vegetation, save moss or lichen.  The forest growths cease quite abruptly on Shasta at a height of about eight thousand feet, though the <HI REND="italics">Pinus flexilis</HI>
022.sgm: maintains a scattered and precarious life for a thousand feet higher.  This pine, with its light.gray bark wrapping the twisted and gnarled trunk as tightly as a skin, with its contorted and depressed limbs bearing brush-like bunches of bright green needles, is a very characteristic production of great elevations in California.  It roots itself in the very rock, and has the aspect of strenuous struggle with unfriendly elements.  Its flattened top is often so compacted by the deep snows that a man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>On a bold bluff overlooking a deep gorge on either side, and composed of red lava, broken and weathered, but still lying in the place of its flow, we reach at last a camping place, above the line of vegetation, as of perpetual snow, and between nine thousand and ten thousand feet above the sea.  It is nearly four o'clock, and we have been almost seven hours making twelve miles of distance, and something over six thousand feet of elevation.  Our horses are tired and lame, and we are glad enough to give them rest.  In one of the gorges, a few hundred feet below our camp, there is a feeble growth of bunch grass, at the edge of a field of frozen snow, which they are led to pasture upon, after short rations of barley and a drink of snow-water.  It was curious to see one or two of the animals tasting the snow, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:as they were driven across it to the drinking-pool formed by its melting during that day.  Gathering branches of the dead <HI REND="italics">Pinus flexilis</HI>
022.sgm:<P>The scene about us was wild and desolate in the extreme.  Our camping ground, as before stated, was a bluff bench of red lava and clinker, above the general surface of which were heaped at intervals huge detached masses of the same material, that had fallen down from above or become detached. in place.  The outer edge of this bench commanded a view of the whole southwestern slope of the mountain down to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:Strawberry and Shasta valleys, over six thousand feet below; across the valleys to Scott Mountain, overlooking the Black Butte, which, from this height, was diminished to a small mound; and thence southerly to the ca&ntilde;on of the main Sacramento, bounded by long and hazy ridges, and filled with smoke from forest fires, which obscured an otherwise magnificent view.  The flank of Shasta itself was marked by trough like grooves, evidently cut by the melting and sliding snow; the timber growing to the edges of these grooves and then giving suddenly out, except where it came in as an unbroken, solid belt lower down.  A large meadow-like plain, four thousand feet below, we knew to be a thicket of tangled and thorny bushes, threaded only by deer.  As the sun sank toward the crest of Scott Mountain, through dense strata of smoke, it became a blood-red globe, quite shorn of its beams, and more or less elongated, and could be looked at steadily.  It was very strange to see this red ball dropping through one band of smoke after another, for the strata were of unequal density <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:and width, and the sun seemed to be sinking behind bars that made it visible only occasionally and partly. Looking backward to Shasta, its highest peak was in clear sky, and rosy bright,--a massive cone of lava-blocks and snow.  To the right and left were deep gorges putting down from the peak, their basins filled with snow and ice, their slopes partly covered with long, narrow bands of snow which led up to the top at a very steep angle.  Numerous torrents pouring down the upper slopes gave forth a subdued roar, varied by the dull rumble of the rocky masses they detached, and which seemed, by the sound, to be constantly moving, although we could not see them. The red lava bed on which we stood extended for a mile or more, at a slight inclination, to the very base of the peaks, which it surrounded like a garment that had been pushed down, leaving the two cones of the summit standing clear above, of another color, their outlines drawn sharply against the sky,--preeminent, lonely heights, their tops as far above our exalted station as Mount Diablo or St. Helena above <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:the sea,--literally, Pelion on Ossa.  For we can now see plainly the true shape of this Volcanic mountain. Its apex is divided into two craters.  The one at the left hand, the lower of the two, is shaped like a sugar loaf, with the top cut off; yet above the circular rim of this flat top rises a small pyramid, giving the whole mass a very peculiar appearance.  The right hand and higher peak is less regular and formal in shape.  Its northerly slope comes down to join the left hand cone in a sharp, clean line, the depression between being filled with a broad field of snow; but the southerly slope has a much reduced inclination, running to the timber line far below, and its knife-blade edge, composed of volcanic conglomerate, is broken into the most fantastic shapes, suggesting castellated structures at times, but oftener the forms of gnomes and demons.  The Indians imagine these weird shapes to be, indeed, a kind of mountain sprites, which they call <HI REND="italics">appetunes</HI>
022.sgm:, and which appear in watchful and observant attitudes, as if on guard against mortal intrusion.  The face of this peak, between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:the outlines, is a steep bluff, depressed below the wall-like upper edge of bright red breccia, and scarcely half covered at this season with long bands of snow.  The summit has several sharp points, which rise above the basin of an ice-filled crater, invisible from below, as is the basin of the left hand crater.  The lower peak--called distinctively "Crater Peak"--is a uniform chocolate-drab in color, viewed closely; while the higher point--called "The Main Peak "--diversifies this color with its bluff and ragged edges of red breccia, with a band of black rock and beds of ashy <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm:.  Late in the summer the snow is quite gone from the surface of Crater Peak upon the steep southern side, remaining always at the top, however, and in the depression between it and the other peak.  The southern face of the Main Peak is never free from snow.  As measured by the State Geological Survey, the outline of Crater Peak has an inclination of 36&deg;; that of the Main Peak has an inclination of 27&deg; to 28&deg; on the shorter, and of 30&deg; to 31&deg; on the longer side.  As we contemplate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:these outlines from below, the task of climbing either of them seems formidable enough, and it is certain that portions of the slope to be passed over are steeper than the measured outline.  According to Professor Whitney's "Report," published in 1865, the Crater Peak had then never been ascended, and was "believed by many to be quite inaccessible." Its sides, he adds, "appear to be covered with loose volcanic materials, probably ashes, lying at the high. est angle possible without sliding down."  The steepness of this cone was not exaggerated, but it has since been frequently climbed, and has latterly been included on the route to the Main Peak by a few of the strongest and most resolute climbers.  In 1871, Clarence King's party, which spent six weeks on and about the mountain, scaled up this side cone with instruments, including the photographic apparatus of Watkins.  If the slopes were really formed of ashes, or other fine material, they could, indeed, hardly be climbed, as they would offer no secure footing at such a steep angle; but they are covered with angular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:blocks of trachyte, sometimes very large, formed by the breaking down of the crater walls above, and affording a footing in the steepest places.  From our camp, these rough slopes looked smooth enough to be ash-beds, and the distance to the top, though several miles, and involving an ascent between three thousand and four thousand feet in perpendicular height, seemed to be very short in that clear, upper air.  Nearly one third the atmosphere which men breathe was already below us, and the exertion of bringing wood and water to camp and spreading our blankets for the night made us pant.  Thus the stratum of atmosphere above was thin and clear.  The early stars as they came out were unusually large and lustrous, and later, when twilight was quite gone, the heavens seemed as populous with bright points, and as luminous, as in southern latitudes.  After nightfall, the temperature of the air was at the freezing.point, and as the snow ceased to melt, the roar of the torrents stopped, and no sound broke the awful solitude of the mountain after we took to our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>It was not easy to sleep in such a place, with that brilliant heaven above, and the massive front of the peak projected like a shadow against the eastern sky, save where its long streaks of snow gave it a ghostly pallor.  We often woke, and gazed long at the glorious vision overhead, or on the severe outlines of the peak.  At last Sisson arose, declared day was about to break, and began making a fire.  It seemed impossible the night was so near gone; yet there in the east, right over the shoulder of the mountain, was a pale silvery glow that appeared to herald morning.  It brightened, but with a brightness like that of the moon, and just then the planet Venus, large and lambent,--"like a rich jewel in an Ethiop's ear,"--rose above the fantastic outline of the mountain to the right.  Attributing his mistake to the singular purity of the air at this altitude, Sisson was fain to seek another nap.  It was not long until day. break, however, and we had an early meal, shivering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:until warmed by the hot tea.  This dispatched, we began the ascent of Crater Peak, wearing our thick woolen clothes, and carrying iron-shod and spiked alpenstocks, a tin flask of cold tea, and some food, a man remaining behind to care for the horses. Reaching a more elevated part of the red lava field, we could see the first light of the sun on the lofty crest of Scott Mountain in the west, Shasta before us being still in cold gray, its enormous cone preventing the light from falling on its own westerly side, and casting a sharply defined pyramid.shaped shadow thirty miles long over the valleys at its base and the mountain range beyond, all outside of this dark purple shadow being in sunlight as we looked wonderingly below.  We met the first direct beams of the sun as we reached the foot of Crater Peak, and now began to realize the rocky roughness of its slopes. Going up these was like climbing very steep stone stairs, except that the steps were uneven and often unsteady,--one rock tipping on another, so that each planting of the foot had to be calculated to avoid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:slipping or toppling,--and that the placing of the alpenstock, which was an indispensable support, had also to be studied.  Breathing became more and more difficult in the increasingly rare atmosphere, and but a few yards could be climbed without a rest. The beating of the heart was audible to each person, a pallor came over the face, and the eyes were strained in their sockets.  As we looked upward from time to time, the rim of the flat top seemed no nearer.  As we looked down, the large blocks we had overcome grew small, and the apparently fine <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm: ahead grew large when we reached it.  The big snow-fields on either side of our camp shrunk into little patches; we could no longer distinguish the camp itself, nor the horses.  The steep edge of the rounded cone on the northerly side was drawn down across the sky in one tremendous line of rock that seemed a jumping.off place into the nether air. We were insects crawling up a slanting steeple, far above the world.  The view below was awful in its depth and extent, the still obscuring smoke giving it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:a character of mystery and indefiniteness.  There seemed no bound to that blue, hazy gulf; and above, to the left as we climbed, was only the lofty skyline of the cone, stretching up, up, up.  An occasional field of fine <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm:, which slid under our weary limbs, made us glad to regain the securer blocks of trachyte. On the latter we could sit, as on benches of stone, panting, perspiring somewhat as the sun's heat was reflected from the bare, smooth rocks, but always enjoying the grand sensation that comes from being high above the world, on a narrow point of its crust. Under our feet, as we climbed, we heard constantly the gurgle and murmur of an unseen torrent, fed from the melting snow above and running deep below the thick.piled masses of rock over which we stepped. For two miles or more we climbed above the channel of this hidden stream, never once catching the slightest glimpse of the water.  All around the mountain there are subterranean torrents like this, which go to form the great springs that leap into rivers at its foot,--"water, water everywhere, nor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>At last we reached the rim of the flattened cone above, but not yet the top of Crater Peak.  There was a narrow snow-field to cross, lying in a depression, and then a small pyramid of broken trachyte, about five hundred feet high, capped with a portion of the original crater wall, to clamber up.  It was eleven o'clock before we reached the latter point, which presented itself as a perpendicular ledge about twenty feet high, but so creviced and broken that we got easy hand and foot hold, and so pulled up to the top, where there was just about room enough for our party of three to recline.  This narrow ledge is the very summit of Crater Peak, and is nearly thirteen thousand feet above the sea.  We found here the small monument left by Clarence King's party two years before.  We had been five or six hours toiling for this mark, experiencing much difficulty in breathing, and even nausea, from the effects of the highly rarefied air.  The weather was unusually <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:warm for the locality, and no clouds obstructed the direct rays of the sun.  The climb was, therefore, more fatiguing, and respiration more difficult, than they would have been had a cold air been blowing or had the sun been overcast.  Sometimes parties who make the ascent in the same month (September) encounter bitterly cold winds and storms of snow.  Thomas Magee, who described his ascent in "Scribner's Monthly," found the cold so severe that it partly froze the tea in the tin canteen at his side.  But warm or cold, the view at the summit amply repays all toil and hardship.  Even if the lower country be hidden in smoke, as was partly the case in our experience, the mountain itself is a grand sight and an instructive study.  Standing on the pinnacle of Crater Peak, its sides are seen to descend at a steep angle all around, and one has almost a dizzy sensation on realizing the immense depth into which he could plunge by a slight effort, or tumble by a reckless step.  On the north side, immediately beneath the eye, lies the old crater,--a circular cavity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:a mile across and a thousand feet deep,--its bottom and part of its steep outer and inner slopes covered with snow and ice.  The wall of the crater is broken, as one would break out the side of a bowl for a quarter of its circumference, on the northwestern side, above Shasta Valley.  The edges of this break must be one thousand five hundred feet long, and through the enormous gap thus made one looks from the cliff above clear down to the valley at the base of the mountain, nearly nine thousand feet, the angle of the view being fearfully steep.  Shasta Valley is seen to be dotted with small volcanic cones,--miniatures of the Black Butte,--and beyond along the western sky, are the Scott and Siskiyou mountains; and beyond these again, if the air were clear, we could see the straight leaden line which marks the Pacific Ocean.  On the southerly side of Crater Peak its slope descends to a wide gorge one thousand two hundred or one thousand five hundred feet deep, filled with frozen snow resting on a substratum of ice, beyond which rises the Main Peak, more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:one thousand five hundred feet higher than the top of Crater Peak.  Its northern slope is regular and abrupt, but its crest is broken into several craggy points, chief of which are three needle-like splinters rising above a large basin and forming part of the walls of a crater; while the southerly slope runs off in a long, curving, broken line, fantastically ragged on its sky-edge of highly colored breccia.  On the summit are sulphur springs, hot enough to boil , and considerable deposits of sulphur--the last relics of the former tremendous volcanic activity which covered with lava all the slopes and valley bases of Mount Shasta, for more than a hundred miles around. What remains of the crater on the Main Peak is filled with ice to a great depth, and from this source, through a cleft on the northeasterly side, descends the slow moving mass of the Whitney Glacier,--a genuine river of ice, half a mile wide and perhaps seven miles long,--the true character of which was first determined by Clarence King so recently as 1871.  All the northerly flanks of the mountain are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>At the right of the crater there is a long dike of crumbling siliceous and sulphurous rock, which we traced half a mile in a direction nearly east and west, resembling one of the metalliferous lodes in its structure, having side walls of trachytic rock, and being filled for a width of two or three feet with a white <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:pasty mass, which on exposure hardens to the appearance of silicate of soda, more or less discolored with sulphur, fumes of which still came up through this curious vent, scenting the air.  Here we rested for half an hour, ate our luncheon, and gathered specimens.  A slight descent brought us to the rim of the crater wall, sharp as the edge of a roof, and its snowy slopes descending on either side steeper than the angle of a roof.  The melting crust on this rim was just wide enough for us to walk in single file, covering our eyes with gauze to protect them from danger of snow-blindness.  The crust had been carved by alternate melting and freezing, aided by the wind, into furrows with knife-blade edges, which would make hard walking on cold days.  But warm as the day was, it was interesting to observe how slightly its influence penetrated the frozen snow and ice.  Even on the steep slopes of broken rock, where no snow was visible, we found that ice was spread everywhere at a slight depth below the surface; and as we laid down where this <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm: was finer than usual, it began <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>Leaving the curving roof-line of the crater edge, and walking along the side of an abrupt incline of loose <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm: largely made up of such materials as composed the curious dike above described, we came to a projecting point where we could look up and down the northerly slope of the Main Peak, and could plainly trace the course of the Whitney Glacier for five miles.  The peak on this side is three-pronged, and the glacier heads up between two of the prongs.  Beginning at an angle sharper than any previously noticed, it soon assumes a gentler incline, and finally reaches the lower slope of the mountain nearly on a level, broadening at this point to its widest dimensions.  The head, and all the steeper part of the glacier, present a surface of clean, marble-like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<HI REND="italics">n&eacute;v&eacute;</HI>
022.sgm:, marked with numerous transverse crevasses, which open very large cavities and expose walls of blue ice.  The upper side of the first Crevasse, near the head of the glacier, seemed to be quite sixty feet above the lower.  The difference in elevation of the crevasse walls lessened, of course, with the reduced angle of the glacier's inclination, until these Openings were simply even gaps across the ice.  A mile or two below the summit the surface was burdened and partly hid with lateral moraines, which lower down completely hid the ice, save where the black <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm: was parted by an occasionally wide crevasse, or a portion of it had sunk bodily into the ice, leaving a cavity filled with blue water. The morainal matter had accumulated in one place to a height, apparently, of not less than fifty feet. Owing to the mildness of the preceding winter, when comparatively little snow fell, followed by a very long season of clear, warm weather through spring and summer, the surface of the <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;v&eacute;</HI>
022.sgm: was much reduced in thickness, and the line of recent glacial cutting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>Beyond this glacier, easterly, is a smaller one, named variously the McCloud and Mud Creek Glacier, which was partly visible from our last point of observation.  We could hear the larger ice-stream constantly cracking, and at intervals heavy detonations succeeded to this sound.  We could hear, also, the roar and rumble of torrents in half a dozen different directions.  But Shasta bears on its easterly flank a still greater glacier,-- one not less than three or four miles wide,--which was named by its discoverer, Clarence King, the Agassiz Glacier.  A trip of sixty miles around the base of the mountain is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:necessary to approach it, so we caught no glimpse of it.  Mr. King, in his fascinating record of "Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada," has described its appearance, and his perilous climb over it, with vivid power.  One remark he makes with reference to it applies generally to the other glaciers on Shasta; it is this: "The idea of a mountain glacier, formed from Swiss or Indian views, is always of a stream of ice walled in by more or less lofty ridges.  Here a great curved cover of ice flows down the conical surface of a volcano without lateral walls, a few lava pinnacles and inconspicuous piles of <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm:<P>Apart from its isolation, the sudden uplift of nearly three fourths of its entire bulk, and its peculiar beauty of color, Mount Shasta is remarkable for being the only mountain in California whose flanks are burdened with living glaciers.  The ice-field on Mount <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:Lyell, in the Yosemite region, which has been described as a glacier, is asserted by Whitney and King not to deserve that title; although Mr. Muir, who has given the subject close study, declares that on Mount Lyell and on several companion peaks true glaciers exist, but of feeble vitality.  The taller peak of  Mount Whitney, five hundred miles south of Shasta, in a latitude where the snow-line extends much above the limit in northern California and Oregon, is without a glacier, as it is also without those singular fields of rock-covered ice which exist on the upper slopes of Shasta.  With the exception of this beautiful California peak, no mountains in the United States bear true glaciers but Mount Hood, in Oregon, Mount Rainier and adjacent peaks, ill Washington Territory, and the Arctic peaks of Alaska, whose glaciers push quite down to the sea and send off fleets of icebergs.  The grand glacier on Mount Rainier, discovered, we believe, by officers of the United States Coast Survey, has been described to the writer as rivaling, if not surpassing, anything in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>It was with great reluctance, in the middle of the afternoon, that we left our perch overlooking the Whitney Glacier to return to camp.  It was hard work to climb up the slope of sliding <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm: we had just descended from Crater Peak, and our legs trembled when we reached the icy rim of the crater and faced its blinding glare.  Resting again at the very top, we gazed lingeringly at the higher peak to the left, with its cascade of <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;v&eacute;</HI>
022.sgm: and ice plunging down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:so precipitously for thousands of feet; at the deep crater bowl to the right, almost under our feet; at the cone-dotted, yellow, hazy valley of Shasta, seen through the broken wall of the crater over a mile and a half below; at the violet crest of the Scott Mountain range beyond, and the dark cone of Black Butte thrust up in the trough between.  But for the smoke, we should have seen to the northward the whole Klamath region, with its lakes and lava-beds, where the Modocs played their miserable tragedy; should have seen the snowy peaks of the Oregon Cascade Range; should have seen to the east the desert plateau of Nevada as far as the Utah line; should have seen to the south the trough.like valley of the Sacramento nearly to the mouth of that stream, with all the bold crest-line of the Sierra Nevada range on one side, and the softer swell of the Coast Range on the other, with a strip of the Pacific Ocean near Humboldt Bay.  Mr. A. Roman, who was one of a small party that climbed Shasta in April, 1856,--a most perilous season,--told the writer that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:atmosphere at that time was wonderfully clear, and the view simply stupendous.  He declares that he saw distinctly all the high peaks, from the Washing. ton group on the north to the Sierra peaks around Lake Tahoe, and the Coast Range peaks about San Francisco,--a distance on a direct line of nearly eight hundred miles!  Within the limits of this view the Sacramento Valley and the topography of the Sierra Nevada were, he says, revealed with wonderful distinctness.  The air was as if purged and filtered, and presented only a slight gray film between the eye and the most distant objects.  There seemed no limit to the vision except the convexity of the earth's surface.  Probably in very clear weather the view extends for quite five hundred miles.  Mr. Roman's party, and himself in particular, suffered dreadfully from the cold on the summit.  He took a thermometer from his clothes to observe the temperature, and as he held it in his hand the mercury speedily dropped to 12&deg; below zero.  How much lower it would have gone he could not tell, for his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:stiffened fingers lost their grip, the instrument fell from his numb hand and was broken.  He was snow-blind and frost-bitten on returning to Yreka, and so altered in appearance that his own brother did not know him.  Sisson told us that he had been up the mountain much later in the spring, or in early summer, when the winds were so cold and strong that he had to cling to the rocks with his hands, when scaling the summit of the Main Peak, to prevent being blown off and hurled to destruction.  Yet as we had this talk the air was no cooler than that of a balmy winter day at San Francisco, and our thick woolen clothes, while we exercised, were almost burdensome.  Mr. John Muir, who ascended the mountain alone in November, 1874, encountered a snowstorm on the very summit, but his hardy habits protected him from injury.  Waking one morning after it subsided he saw a sublime spectacle, which he thus describes: "A boundless wilderness of storm-clouds of different age and ripeness were congregated over all the landscape for thousands of square miles, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Resting on tile top crag of Crater Peak before descending, we observed more closely the utter absence of vegetation for thousands of feet below.  After leaving the <HI REND="italics">Pinus flexilis</HI>
022.sgm: at our camp on the lava, where there were sparse bunches of a hardy grass, and a few plants like portulacca growing in shady crevices, an occasional lichen was all that appeared, and at the summit the lichens were no longer to be seen.  On one snow-field there was a slight trace left of <HI REND="italics">Tococcus nivalis</HI>
022.sgm:,--the "red snow," so called,--a very low form of vegetable life, which is sometimes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:so abundant on this mountain as to color the foot-prints in the snow blood-red.  For three or four thousand feet below, the eye took in nothing but a wreck of rocky matter, of red and black lava-flow, of gray-colored scoriaceous <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm:, except where the snow and ice covered the surface and made it even more arctic and desolate.  Yet animal life was not quite absent.  Lifting a piece of loose rock near the surveyor's monument, we revealed a little colony of lady-bugs, of a dark cinnamon color, with many darker spots.  The tiny creatures crawled away feebly, making no effort to fly.  What they could live on there we could not conjecture.  A few snow-birds were twittering a thousand or two thousand feet below, and nearly up to the very crest of the Main Peak we saw a solitary California vulture wheeling slowly around.  Sisson says he once found a dead squirrel on that peak, which had probably been dropped there by a bird of prey, and at another time he saw there a living mouse.  The large-horned mountain sheep, apparently the same species as that found in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Going down the rocky slope of Crater Peak, we heard again the gurgle of the hidden torrent.  The descent was very tiresome, and a little hazardous to one's limbs, for a fall among the larger masses or a slide in the small <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm: might easily result in a fracture.  Earlier in the year much labor is saved by sliding down on the snow.  But we reached the base at last in safety, very weary, and glad to put foot again on the lava-flow that led to camp, where we arrived almost too weary to care for the red sunset through bars of clouds, which was repeated in the western sky, reminding us of the appearance of that luminary to Campbell's "last man."  How sweet sleep was that night!  No more deception with the morning star.  Again at sunrise, however, we were off, this time mounted and bound homeward.  Facing the west as we rode down the slope of the mountain, we saw once more the sharp cone of its shadow, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>At the house in Strawberry Valley once more, after a journey of two and a half days, we turned to look at the grand peak with its twin cones--all its ruggedness gone, its long outlines and vast front smoothed by distance, and a sunny haze clothing it in tender beauty.  Often since we have revisited it in dreams, and longed, on waking, for its restful solitude.</P>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE MEADOW LARK.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>BERKELEY,  FEBRUARY 23,  1874.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>TRILL, happy lark, thy brief, sweet lay,<LB>From out a breast as brown<LB>As were the hills in autumn day<LB>Before the rains came down.<LB>The beaming sun, the dripping showers,<LB>Are in thy simple notes;<LB>Earth smiles to hear in grass and flowers,<LB>And bright the cloudlet floats.<LB>On Alameda's mountain line<LB>The violet's tender hue,<LB>With dappled spots of shade and shine,<LB>Is painted 'gainst the blue.</HI>
022.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The meadow slopes to meet the bay,<LB>The gulls in flocks uprise;<LB>And far above the waters gray<LB>Soars purple Tamalpais.<LB>Beyond is ocean's wide expanse,<LB>Where, through the Golden Gate,<LB>The ships with snowy canvas dance,<LB>Or on the breezes wait.<LB>Fair day, bright scene!  The hill, the tree,<LB>The poppy's running flame,<LB>The silver cloud, the sunny sea,<LB>Spring's coming all proclaim.<LB>But sweeter, dearer, far than all<LB>I love the liquid sound<LB>That from the sky the lark lets falls<LB>Whene'er he spurns the ground.<LB>Though all too short, his carols give<LB>Back to my heart once more<LB>The thoughtless joy that used to live<LB>In happy days of yore.</HI>
022.sgm:<illus entity="a022-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GOLDEN GATE, FROM CONTRA COSTA HILLS</P>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE GEYSERS.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>YOSEMITE, the Big Trees, and the Geysers are thought by California tourists to be the great wonder of the Golden State, next to her matchless climate and the modesty of her people.  Much has been written about the marvelous gorge in the Sierra, where rivers are flung over granite precipices; and the diameter and altitude of the giant sequoia are familiar enough to the ordinary reader; but less has been said about the Geysers, although they possess features of remarkable interest.  Geysers they are not, in the sense in which the word is usually understood; and the traveler who expects to see, on reaching this locality, high fountains of boiling water like those in Iceland and the Yellowstone region, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:will be disappointed.  Yet are they richly worth the journey, as the journey itself is its own sufficient reward without any other motive than the scenery along the route.  Suppose, reader, you have crossed the Sierra Nevada, breathed its exhilarating  air, scented with the aromatic odor of its magnificent pines and cedars; been enraptured with the softer beauties at its base, hazy with the heat of its golden summer, or stretching far the clear perspective of its verdurous and flowery spring, and then have met on the Bay of San Francisco the cool air that blows in from the Pacific through the Golden Gate; you still have not exhausted the contrasts and pleasures of California scenery.  Resting a while in the many-hilled metropolis, which sprawls over a narrow peninsula of sand and rock, resolve to go to the Geysers before you try the all.else.belittling grandeur of Yosemite.  This is the route.  Besides the broad Sacramento Valley, two narrow Coast Range valleys open from the bay on the north,--Sonoma and Napa,--each some forty miles long by an average <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:width not exceeding three miles, nearly level, and bounded by high ridges of metamorphic rock of the cretaceous period, which sometimes break down into low.rolling hills that invade the plain, giving its surface a picturesque variety.  Napa Valley--named from a nearly extinct tribe of aborigines--is the inner one of the two.  Like its companion, it is traversed for a part of its length by a creek, navigable so far as the tide extends, which empties into the bay through a wide expanse of salt marsh.  Through either valley the mountain road that leads to the Irs may be reached.  The usual route, however, is through Napa Valley.  A steamboat sail of twenty-five miles from San Francisco to Vallejo begins the trip delightfully, affording a fine view of the city,--dusty, and gray on its vaporous heights; of the grimly fortified Alcatraz Island, which lies like a snag in the mouth of the harbor; of the Golden Gate, with its red brick fort on one side, its white light-house on the other, and brown or green headland, fleets of inward or outward bound sails passing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Mare Island, the site of what is at present the most important navy-yard in the United States, is a long, flat body of land, very slightly elevated above the water, and on the western side of the straits. The opposite shore is hilly, its lower slopes covered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:with the thrifty town of Vallejo, once the capital of the State, and now the railroad and trade' centre of the northern coast-valley region.  Here we take the cars for Napa ad Calistoga, beginning a railroad ride of forty-four miles through the Rasselas Valley of reality, whose charms surpass those of Wyoming as much as the red tints of this semi-tropical clime surpass the cold colors of the north.  The trip is, usually made toward evening, when the atmospheric effects are most beautiful.  As the valley is filled with settlers and contains half a dozen pretty towns, its surface is marked with cultivated fields, with rich masses of green or golden grain, orchards laden with blossoms or fruit, vineyards whose cleanly kept vines shine in the sun as though they smiled over the genial harvest they are maturing.  The natural features of the valley are park-like groves of oak, which grow thickest where they belt the course of the creek, and are there mixed with sycamore, alders, willows, and a plentiful undergrowth of wild vines and bushes.  The spaces in the oak-openings which are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:not cultivated are free from underbrush, the soil bearing a native crop of wild oats and flowers, the deep <illus entity="a022-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Valley Oaks</P>
022.sgm:orange tint of the large California poppy ( <HI REND="italics">Papavera Eschscholtzia</HI>
022.sgm: ) being conspicuous among the latter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:in spring and summer.  When the oat-crop is ripe, its brilliant gold colors the landscape in every direction over the valley, far up the lower slopes of the adjoining ridges, and often even to their very tops.  The several varieties of evergreen oaks, with their short trunks, cauliflower-shaped masses of intensely dark green foliage, and sharp shadows, then seem like oases in the hot expanse--grateful islets of verdure in a sea of shimmering yellow light.  On the rolling lands most exposed to sea winds, the oaks, contorted, dwarfed, and thorny.leaved as the holly, nestle together in groups and fit their slanting boughs to the outlines of the hills, making cool, sequestered bowers of the most inviting character.  Towards the upper end of the valley the massive trunks, tall forms, and expansive foliage of the deciduous oaks, present a striking contrast to these hardy dwarfs who have to struggle for life.  The willow-oak, remarkable for the pendant strips of leafage nearly touching the ground, from which it derives its name, is particularly conspicuous.  One notes, too, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:the great rounded masses of mistletoe clinging to several varieties of oak, and the scarlet-leaved vines that sometimes cling about their trunks, rivaling in color the plumage of the woodpecker who digs his acorn-holes in the bark above.  Darting through one of these noble groves, venerable with mosses, one has charming views of the mountains on either side the valley, their ravines dark with timber, their upper slopes clad with pine and fir, their northern and sea exposures luxuriant with forests of the redwood, own cousin to the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
022.sgm:.  The outline of the ridges is sometimes made very picturesque, not to say fantastic, by outcropping masses of metamorphic sandstone, cut into mural or battlemented shapes by the elements.  When the atmosphere wraps them in its haze, and they recede into skyey blendings of all violet and purple tints, their contrast with the softening gold and green of the valley.levels is most exquisite.  And when the sun sinks behind the more distant mountain masses they glow through as if molten and transparent, or no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>At the head of Napa Valley stands Mount St. Helena, the culminating point of the ridges between the Bay of San Francisco and Clear Lake.  It is a mass of volcanic rock four thousand three hundred and forty-three feet high; the apparently single point of its cone, like nearly all volcanic peaks, separating into two as it is approached or circled.  Most of its bare bulk is visible, rising like an irregular pyramid at the end of the long valley-vista,--a grand object far and near, whether in its customary suit of gray or flashing in the splendor of its evening robe; continually shifting its color and form as it is seen close or far, on this side or that; opening its rocky breast at last to nature's softening touch of spring and brook and tree, and drawing up about its awful flanks some of the verdurous beauty of the valley.  One of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:the best views of this mountain, on its southerly side, is that from Calistoga, where the cars leave the <illus entity="a022-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Mount St. Helena.</P>
022.sgm:tourist at night, and where he takes a coach for the Geysers.  Calistoga is at the head of Napa Valley and the mountains here inclose a small circular plain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:studded with large oaks, and charged with thermal springs that send up little puffs of vapor filling the air with mineral smells.  The thriving and pretty town found here grew about the hotels and cottages first erected to accommodate visitors to these springs. It owes its existence to the enterprise of one man, Samuel Brannan, who took the little valley a solitude and has peopled it with a prosperous community of farmers and traders.  His expenditures for improvements here were very large, and include such objects as vineyards, wine and brandy vaults, mulberry plantations for silk-culture, etc.  He was also a prominent actor in the railroad.  The planting of ornamental trees and shrubs about the springs was thought a doubtful experiment, by reason of the alkali and heat the springs diffuse through the soil.  But the plantings throve slowly, and Calistoga is growing under the shadow of its grand mountain, which the plain mimics by a small isolated cone (Mount Lincoln) that rises from its centre.  Soda and sulphur are the principal mineral constituents of the thermal waters, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:whose heat rises to the boiling point.  In the hills near by are the remains of a petrified forest, the stony trunks of oak being quite numerous.  When growing they were evidently buried by an earthquake shock, exposed to a watery solution of volcanic matter, which silicified them, and subsequently elevated again, and partly uncovered by the washing away of the enveloping earth.  Mount St. Helena was once the centre of volcanic disturbance in this region, and threw its ashes and lava over a good part of the surrounding country.  The hot springs at many points in the valley and hills, the pumice and obsidian scattered widely over the surface, the masses of volcanic rock observable, all indicate a time when this was a volcanic centre.  And these indications extend northward at least as far as Clear Lake, some forty miles distant, where deposits of sulphur and a lake richly charged with borax are found.  The earthquakes still felt occasionally through this region are not alarmingly severe.  In December, 1859, a tremendous explosion was heard at Mount St. Helena, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Mount St. Helena was ascended in 1841 by a Russian naturalist, Wasnossensky, who named it in honor of his empress, and left on the summit a copper plate, inscribed with the names of himself and his Companion.  This plate is now preserved in the museum of the California Geological Survey. The Russians did a good deal of exploring in California in early days, not alone for scientific purposes, but with some eye to commercial and political aggrandizement.  They left their name at several points in the northern interior, including the Russian River and the lovely valley it waters, which opens north of Sonoma Valley and lies across the ridge to the northwest of Napa Valley.  The tourist who is acquainted with these facts regards the country on the route to the Geysers with more interest.</P>
022.sgm:<P>Early in the morning a stage leaves Calistoga for the Geysers, distant twenty.eight miles.  This "stage" is simply a very strong open spring wagon, seating nine to twelve persons.  Last year it was not uncommon for half a dozen such wagons to make the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:trip daily.  The road soon quits the valley, ascends a range of wooded hills to the northward, crosses it at a height of three or four hundred feet above the val. icy, and seven hundred and fifty above the sea, and descends to the northwest into Knight's Valley which is drained into Russian River.  There are numerous creeks in this region, leading to many picturesque side valleys heading in the hills.  Broad natural meadows are dotted with groves of oak, and in the spring months the green levels and slopes are spangled with flowers, including the blue lupin, larkspur, purple primrose, yellow poppy, and a profusion of buttercups and daisies.  The streams run tinkling over gravelly beds, larks and linnets sing joyously, flocks of blackbirds chatter musically as they whirl in gusty flights together, and the clear air exhilarates like champagne. Mount St. Helena is kept to the right, revealing its sculpture boldly as it is neared, but never losing its magic tints.  The ridges dividing a series of intervales are thickly wooded with oak and pine, with here and there a redwood astray, a madro&ntilde;a or manzanita, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>As the Geyser mountains are neared, the valleys narrow to ribbons, run into hills, and end in a dense forest glade, where lighter wagons are taken for the ascent.  From this point teams are not allowed to travel in opposite directions; the road is too narrow and dangerous to pass.  Hence the teams going out and in meet in this glade, composed of lofty firs in great part, and having the hushed air and soft carpet of a true forest.  The summit of the first range of hills is about one thousand seven hundred feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:above the station at its foot, or nearly two thousand three hundred feet above the sea, and the ascent is made in a distance of about four miles.  These hills form the lower slope of Geyser Peak, which is three thousand four hundred and seventy.one feet high, and forms one of the triangulating stations of the United States Coast Survey, being plainly visible from the ocean and San Francisco.  It is a conical peak, like all the dominating points of this range, and commands a magnificent view.  The stage.road ascends its flanks very deviously, passing alternately through dense thickets of underbrush or bits of coniferous woods; then across deep gulches, watered with clear trout streams; then emerging into open spaces, and winding along the edge of a precipitous descent, opening far vistas of colossal scenery, rank on rank of diminishing hills thrusting up sharp tops of fir or pine, until these are lost in the blue gulf nearly two thousand feet below.  Everywhere, except in the forest belts and thickets of brush, the more or less rounding hills of the Coast Range bear a luxuriant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Resting the sweating horses for a few minutes on one of these wild harvest spaces, and looking about, the passengers have a view never to be forgotten. Across a gulf to the east rises the commanding bulk of Mount St. Helena.  To the west and south descend the hills we have been climbing, and others beyond them, leading the eye to Russian River Valley, where the stream makes a sharp turn and can be traced on its gleaming course for many miles. The receding hills, with their shaggy coating of forest and chemisal, are softened with a violet haze. The valley shimmers in its heat, and through a cleft in the far blue wall of the outer Coast Range the sunny Pacific is seen melting into heaven.  The air is wonderfully clear and luminous, lending the charm of its tints to the magnificent landscape, without obscuring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:it, so that we seem to be looking at it, almost dizzily, through a transparent medium which only reflects an image.  Such a sight intoxicates the senses almost to pain.  The world never appeared so lovely, nor our own nature so capacious and receptive.  It is with a sigh of regret that we feel the wagon start and dash onward; but the extreme beauty of the woods is another delight.  The madro&ntilde;a has become a tree, and its smooth mahogany limbs and large waxen leaves are rich beyond any other tree in the forest.  Then the laurel and the bay, with their perennial green, the maple and the alder in moist places, and the blooming buckeye, fill up the spaces between the leather-colored columns of redwood and cedar, and the straight shafts of pine and fir, towering above all.  As the road winds higher towards Geyser Peak, it leaves the forest and passes through a dense thicket of chemisal shrubbery, oak, laurels, small bays, and ceanothus.  The last, called California lilac, is covered till late in the spring with powdery blossoms that give <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:forth honeyed odors.  Masses of stained and blackened rocks, serpentine, sandstone, and trap, rise here and there, giving the nearing summit a desolate look, which is increased by the few contorted pines that suck a feeble life from the crevices where they grow.  A narrow ridge, called the Hog's Back,--just wide enough for the wagon,--connects two spurs of the range at this point, separating Sulphur and Pluton creeks.  It is the parapet of a wall whose sides slope at a sharp angle a thousand feet, and riding over it at a high speed one looks into a chasm on either hand, catches breath, and hopes the harness and wheels may be strong.  The Hog's Back, however, forms part of the old road which is not traveled now, except by daring tourists who insist upon going back by that route especially to enjoy a sensation.  The new road keeps more to the flank of the ridge, and curves about precipices instead of crossing them.  Both roads approach within two or three hundred feet of the summit of Geyser Peak, and then plunge suddenly down its farther <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:and steeper flank to the ca&ntilde;on of Pluton  River, on whose right bank are the Geysers.  The greatest elevation either road attains is about three thousand two hundred feet.  As the Geyser Hotel is one thousand six hundred and ninety.two feet above the sea, the descent is about one thousand five hundred feet. This is made on the old road in a distance of two miles.  Foss, the proprietor of the road and stage line, and one of the celebrated "whips" of California, used to call this steep descent "the drop," and as he began it, would tell the passengers to look at their watches and hold on to their seats and hats. He would then crack his whip, and the horses--sometimes six to a wagon--would start at a keen run and make the distance in nine and a half minutes.  There are thirty-five sharp turns in "the drop," and the road, just wide enough for the team, frequently hugs the edge of steep, rocky preCipices, whose sides and bottoms made a Concavity of bristling fir-tops, hiding the stream whose murmur comes faintly up.  The new road makes the descent to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:ca&ntilde;on of Pluton Creek, or river, by a longer route, with more curves, in a lighter grade; but is equally narrow, and follows closely, for long distances, the steep precipices that line the creek.  Over this, too the teams are driven at a rate of speed frightful to timid persons unaccustomed to mountain stage.travel in California.  But dangerous as these roads seem, not a single accident has occurred on them, for the wagons are kept very strong, the horses are Of the best roadster stock, and the drivers masters of their trade.  The great speed made, instead of increasing the danger, lessens it.  Yet there are persons in almost every wagonful of passengers who pale and shrink as the vehicle dashes wildly down, and as they see below them, under the very wheels, as it were, the yawning chasms that seem to threaten death.  Women sometimes sink into the bottom of the wagon, and hide from their eyes the spectacle so dreadful to them, that is so sublime to cooler heads and calmer nerves.  When the wagon reaches the hotel, however, all its tenants have a half wild look, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:as if they had just come down in a balloon and were thankful it had "lit."  Nothing can be more wildly romantic than the scenery of the Pluton ca&ntilde;on.  On one side rises a steep mountain, rock. ribbed and clad with stately firs, mixed With evergreen oaks, bay trees, and madro&ntilde;as; on the other side sinks a precipice into a deep gorge, crowded with a richer variety of foliage, through which are caught glimpses of a stream making foamy leaps over rocky rapids, or expanding into still pools, in whose depths fishes can be seen like images fixed in glass. Here a small brook comes tumbling down the mountain, creaming a mass of black rock a hundred feet high, which is margined with ferns, splotched with lichens, and shadowed by arching trees, out of which the cascade seems to leap.  There, on the right, far across the ca&ntilde;on, other mountains rise, sparsely timbered with oak, yellow or green with wild oats, scarred with deep red gulches from summit to base, and--yes, actually smoking like a volcano from many an ashen heap or hollow.  The air is charged with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The Geyser Hotel is a lightly constructed frame-house, L-shaped, with double piazzas on all sides. It stands amid a grove of tall firs and massive evergreen oaks, on a narrow bench about one hundred feet above Pluton  Creek, the mountains rising straight behind it.  This creek is a tributary of Russian River.  It heads up towards Mount St. Helena, and until it comes within the influence of the Geysers is a charming trout stream.  Its banks and bed are extremely rocky.  Huge boulders of granite and sandstone choke its course, and black volcanic masses rise in frowning cliffs by its side, sometimes softened with a drapery of vines, and bearing trees on their creviced tops.  Great blocks of conglomerate, apparently formed <HI REND="italics">in situ</HI>
022.sgm: by the mineral constituents of the waters percolating through the diluvium, are also seen obstructing the creek.  Occasionally it has cut through a bed of this conglomerate, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The best time to visit the Geysers is early in the morning, before the sun has risen above the mountain tops and drank up the vapors.  From the red riven side facing the hotel, columns and clouds of steam may then be seen rising to a height of two hundred feet or more, obscuring the landscape like a fog just rolling in from the sea.  The same phenomenon is visible, but in a less degree, towards night. It is pleasanter to take a good rest at night, to enjoy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:the concert of the birds in the grove about the house, listen to the soughing of the firs, the soft roar of the creek, and the distant puffings and gurgitations of the Geysers; and then from your bedroom opening upon a piazza, gaze out, as you lie with open door and window, in that balmy climate, at the keen stars beaming with their eternal quiet over that strange scene.  Up before the sun, don an old suit, swallow a cup of coffee, and join the laughing party of tourists gathered about the guide on the fenced space before the house.  Every one takes a "geyser pony,"--that is, a stout stick to help him or her over the rocks and springs,--and then all start down the trail, Indian file, to Pluton Creek.  Before reaching it, the guide, who perhaps is the jolly landlord himself, points out a chalybeate spring of fine tonic properties, whose waters his guests imbibe, mixed with soda-water.  The banks are charged with iron salts for a great distance up and down, and their solutions have given the earth its red tinge, and hardened the gravel-beds into a semi-metallic mass.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:In curious contrast, at the crossing to Geyser Ca&ntilde;on, is the whey-like tint of the water in the creek, which for a quarter of a mile or more is affected by the sulphur discharges, some of which bubble up through the very bed of the creek itself.  Thermal springs of various sorts are numerous along the creek, especially on its right bank, for several miles; but the most remarkable are those facing the hotel.  The prevailing rocks are metamorphic sandstone, silicious slates, and serpentine.  Their stratification is boldly exposed, and dips at a sharp angle to the line of the creek. Through the lines of fracture or cleavage, from the water's edge to a height of fifty or a hundred feet up the slope opposite, where the creek is Crossed by a rustic bridge, numerous springs and steam jets escape, coloring the face of the slacking rocks vividly with the yellow, red, and white salts of sulphur, iron, lime, and magnesia that they deposit.  The springs are of various temperatures, some of them exceeding 200&deg;. One forms quite a large stream, and is led by troughs into a row of small shanties, where its steam is used <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Following down the right bank of the Pluton for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:a short distance, the trail turns to the right and enters a gorge densly embowered by shrubs at its mouth, but soon opening into the desolate regions of the Devil's Ca&ntilde;on.  The nomenclature, like the scenery from this point, is all infernal, suggestive of Dante and his awful journey, except that the tourist hither seems to have reversed the course that Dante took, approaching Pluto's sphere from the region of Elysian beauty, instead of passing through that to these.  Much of the nomenclature fastened to various points in the ca&ntilde;on is arbitrary and impertinent enough, and one wishes it were possible to see the place dissociated from all names that suggest superstition and cruelty.  Climbing up a ledge that crosses the ca&ntilde;on, we suddenly gain a view of the principal Geysers.  The gorge for half a mile up the mountain lies before us, a steep ascent, filled with steam and noise, its bare sides painted many colors, its bed obstructed with boulders, around and under which turbid waters gurgle and smoke; at the very head of all the apparent combustion and explosion an abrupt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Before the crusts of salt and sulphur and decomposed rock had been disturbed, and a trail marked out where the footing was known to be solid, the ascent may have been dangerous.  It is certainly not so now, although to many persons very unpleasant. The hot ground under the feet; the subterranean rumblings; the throbs and thuds near some of the largest and most energetic steam vents; the warm, moist atmosphere, filled with ascidulous vapors, often charged with sulphuretted hydrogen; the screaming, roaring, hissing, gurgling, and bubbling of the various springs,--all contribute to make the scene as repellant to some as it is grand and exciting to others.  Where the vapors are thickest, and the noises loudest, the guide says, "This is the Devil's Laboratory;" and so his Satanic Majesty gets the credit all the way for some of the most curious and instructive of the inner workings of that kindly power whose most terrible forces are instruments of good--manifestations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>There are no spouting fountains in the ca&ntilde;on, but numerous bubbling springs, that sink and rise with spasmodic action.  These number a hundred or two, and are of varying temperature and constituents.  A few are quite Cold, closely adjoining hot springs, while others have a temperature of 100&deg; to 207&deg;. Some appear to be composed of alum and iron, others of sulphur and magnesia, while a few are strongly acidulous.  Here the water is pale yellow, like that of ordinary white-sulphur springs; there it is black as ink.  The mingling of these different currents, with the aid of frequent steam injections, intensifies the chemical action, the sputter and fuming, that are incessantly going on.  These phenomena are not confined to the narrow bed of the gorge, but extend for a hundred or two feet up its sides, which slope at a pretty steep angle.  These slopes are soft masses of rock decomposed or slackened by chemical action, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:and colored brilliantly with crystallized sulphur, and sulphates of iron, alum, lime, and magnesia, deposited from the springs and jets of steam, which are highly charged with them.  As the rocks decompose and leach under the chemical action to which they are subjected, the soft silicious mass remaining, of a putty.like consistence, mixes with these salts.  Some of the heaps thus formed assume conical shapes. They have an apparently firm crust, but are really treacherous stepping.places.  One of the most remarkable steam vents in the ca&ntilde;on is in the top of such a pile, fifty feet up the steep slope.  It blows like the escape.pipe of a large engine.  The beautiful masses of crystallized sulphur which form about it, as about the innumerable small fumaroles that occur along both banks, tempt one to dare to climb, and face the hot steam.  The mass shakes beneath the tread, and is probably soft to a great depth.  Wherever in these soft heaps a stick is thrust in, the escaping warm air soon deposits various salts.  Of course a walk over such material is ruinous to boot and shoe leather, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:while the splash of acid waters often injures the clothing.  Everybody stops to gather specimens of the various salts and rocks.  The guide presents to be tasted pure Epsom-salts (sulphate of magnesia), and salts of iron and alum, of soda and ammonia.  Few care to taste the waters, however, which rival in their chemical and sanitary qualities all the springs of all the German spas together.  Perhaps  the most remarkable of the Geyser springs is that called, happily enough, the Witches' Caldron.  This is a black, cavernous opening in the solid rock, about seven feet across, and of unknown depth, filled with a thick inky liquid, boiling hot, that tumbles and roars under the pressure of escaping steam, emitting a smell like that of bilge-water, and seems to proceed from some Plutonic reservoir.  One irresistibly thinks of the hell-broth in "Macbeth," so "thick and slab," and repeats the words of the weird sisters:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Double, double toil and trouble<LB>Fire burn and caldron bubble."</HI>
022.sgm:<P>A clever photographer, Mr. Muybridge, conceived <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:the idea of grouping three lady visitors about this caldron, with hands linked, and alpenstocks held like magic wands, in which  position he  photographed them amid the vaporous scene with telling effect.  Another notable spot is the Devil's Gristmill, where a large column of steam escapes from a hole in the rock with so much force that stones and sticks laid at the aperture are blown away like bits of paper.  The internal noises at this vent truly resemble the working of a grist.mill.  Milton's hero is sponsor for another spring called the Devil's Inkstand, notable for its black water, specimens of which are taken off in small vials, and used at the hotel to inscribe the names of guests on the register. Dr. James Blake, who has read before the California Academy of Sciences several papers giving the results of his observations on the Geysers, says that the water of the Devil's Inkstand contains nine per cent. of solid matter in the form of soluble salts and sediment, the former being in the proportion of 2.7 per cent., the remaining ingredients being in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:form of a dark black sediment.  The matter has a thoroughly acid reaction, which it owes to the presence of free sulphuric acid.  It would seem that a large portion of the soluble matter is composed of ammoniacal salts, probably the sulphate of ammonia. This salt, which ,rarely occurs in the natural state, has been found by Mr. Durand, another academician, precipitated in large quantities from the vaporous exhalations at the Geysers.  Dr. Blake's analysis of the water of the Devil's Inkstand shows that about fifty per cent. of the saline ingredients consists of volatile salts, the remainder being salts of magnesia, lime, alumina, and iron.  The presence of so large a quantity of ammoniacal salts ill the water of a mineral spring is quite exceptional.  These salts have long been recognized as occurring in the fumaroles, in the neighborhood of volcanoes, and their origin, particularly in such large  quantities as at these Geysers, opens up some very interesting questions as to the nature of the strata from which so much nitrogenous matter can be derived.  The sediment <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Wherever one treads, going up the Devil's Ca&ntilde;on, the step slips or crunches on some of the chemical products of these springs.  It is a relief after a while to emerge from the heated vapors and sulphurous smells, and standing on the flag.staff cliff (called the Devil's Pulpit, of course), look down on the ca&ntilde;on and across to the hotel.  Phenomena of the same sort, on a smaller scale, however, are visible on the higher slopes, and in the lesser gulches, up and down the creek.  One place, called the Crater, a circular cavity of considerable depth, with a level, hollow-sounding floor, is evidently the site of exhausted thermal action, where the mineral constituents <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>As to the origin of the phenomena we have been describing, it may be said that there are two theories, volcanic and chemical.  Professor Whitney says (in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:his "Report of Progress," vol. i. p. 95) that there will be no difficulty in understanding them when we consider that they are displayed along a line of former volcanic activity, and where even now the igneous forces are not entirely dormant.  "The dependence of the Geysers for their activity, in part, on the recurrence of the rainy season,' indicates clearly that the water, percolating down through the fissures in the rocks, meets with a mass of subterranean lava not yet entirely cooled off, and, becoming intensely heated, under pressure finds its way to the surface along a line of fissure connecting with the bottom of Geyser Ca&ntilde;on; in this heated condition it has a powerful action oil the rocks and the metallic sulphurets which they contain, especially on the sulphuret of iron everywhere so abundantly diffused through the formation, and so dissolves them and brings them up to the surface, to be again partly redeposited as the solution is cooled down by contact with the air." Professor Whitney adds that phenomena of the same kind as those observed at the Geysers, and sometimes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The chemical theory asserts that all the phenomena are ascribable to the action of water percolating <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>In spite of the hot water, the steam and the saline deposits, vegetation flourishes far down the slopes of Geyser Ca&ntilde;on, about the margins, and in some of the very waters.  The evergreen oak thrives almost within reach of the exhalations, and maples and alders are found on the banks of the creek close to some of the steam vents.  A grass called <HI REND="italics">Panicum thermale</HI>
022.sgm: grows near the hot springs.  Animal life dares to invade the scene, for dragon-flies of great beauty may often be observed, while birds build their nests and sing in the adjacent trees.  Dr. Blake found two forms of plant.life in a spring having a temperature as high as 198&deg;.  These were delicate microscopic conferva&aelig;.  In a spring having a temperature <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>One returns to the hotel after a morning tramp through Geyser Ca&ntilde;on and along Pluton Creek with an enormous appetite, and is glad to rest for a few hours.  Afterward, there are delightful strolls up and down the creek, and good trout.fishing for those who will go far enough.  Deer and grizzly bear are to be had for the hunting in the mountains,--the grizzly sometimes without hunting.  But the sportsman had better be accompanied by some one familiar with the country, unless he is a good forester, and can find his way without a path.  A San Francisco lawyer was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Mount St. Helena and Napa Valley lie nearer at hand, and to the westward the eye takes in the Pacific Ocean for a hundred miles along the coast. Cobb's Peak can be ascended on horseback.  The timber is not thick on the way, and many charming outlooks are obtained.  Another scenical treat may be had by returning to San Francisco by way of the old road across the Hog's Back, to Ray's Station, and thence into Russian River and Sonoma Valley. Reaching San Francisco by this route the tourist will have gained a very good idea of the northern coast valleys of California, and the noble bay into which they partly drain.</P>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GOLDEN GATE PARK.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>BEYOND the town, the bushy mounds between,<LB>Roll drifts of yellow wrinkled sand--<LB>Uncrested waves, that dash against the green<LB>Like ocean billows 'gainst the strand;<LB>But when the spring is soft, and winds are low,<LB>The shifting masses lie as still<LB>As frozen banks of crusted moonlit snow<LB>That hide the hollow in the hill.<LB>One way a mountain lifts its verdant crest<LB>Along a blue and cloudless sky;<LB>On sloping pastures cattle feed or rest,<LB>And swallows twitter as they fly.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Below, around, the lusty lupin blooms<LB>In purple color, honey sweet;<LB>The poppy's deep and golden cup illumes<LB>Each plat of grass or chance-sown wheat.<LB>On rounded hillocks lustrous leafage shoots<LB>From laurel and from thorny oak,<LB>And sprawling vinelets clutch with thirsty roots<LB>The soil no rain can ever soak.<LB>A deep-set lakelet, greenly ringed about,<LB>Gems with its blue an open space,<LB>Where yellow buttercups their beauty flout,<LB>And insects flutter o'er its face.<LB>Through scenes like this the red and winding way<LB>Gives glimpses of the gusty town,<LB>Throned on its many hills along the bay,<LB>Where far Diablo looketh down.<LB>But westward, over sand-dunes ribbed and hoar,<LB>That deepen heaven's azure hue,<LB>Are lines of snowy surf that faintly roar,<LB>Edging a sea that melts in blue</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">A summer-shining sea, that slides and slips<LB>In silent currents through the Gate,<LB>Where glinting sails of slowly moving ships<LB>For pilot or for breezes wait.<LB>Northward, beyond a ridge of yellow sand,<LB>That hides the narrow harbor-way,<LB>Rise headlands brown and bluff, whose summits grand<LB>Are islanded in vapors gray.<LB>Below a line of arrow-headed firs,<LB>That stretches 'neath a strip of cloud,<LB>The slope is softly greened, and nothing stirs<LB>But shadow Of the misty shroud.<LB>Peace broods where winds are fiercely wont to rave,<LB>To drive the sand like sleet before;<LB>No sound disturbs the vernal stillness, save<LB>The surf upon the distant shore--<LB>The faintly sighing surf, or linnet's song,<LB>Or music of the friendly voice,<LB>Which gives to nature as we go along<LB>A charm that makes the day more choice.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CITY SCENERY.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>THE traveler who approaches San Francisco for the first time from the sea will not be charmed by its appearance, unless he has been fitted by a voyage of many months, like those early ones around Cape Horn, to welcome the sight of any land or town as beautiful.  There is some beauty of form in the deeply eroded sandstone hills along the ocean where the surf dashes and roars constantly, and some richness in their tints of brown rock and yellow stubble under a summer sun and clear sky.  There, as the ship enters a narrow strait leading to the bay, bold rocky cliffs on one side, a tall mountain on the other the water covered with wild fowl, and the bay shores and islands coming into view ahead, the scene is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:picturesque and animated enough.  But after leaving the rugged headlands that form the Golden Gate and rounding a bold, russet-colored promontory, the gaze does not rest so much on these things as on the treeless sandy ridge, the formed lines of street cuttings which go straight over or through varying elevations, the mean architecture, the cold, monotonous gray of land and houses, marking the northwesterly extremity of the city.  The long, gaunt peninsula ribbed with outcropping strata of serpentine or sandstone, with long wave-like sand-dunes and rows of square wooden houses, remind one strangely of some monster skeleton of an early geological epoch, fossilized, and partly uncovered to the cold sea wind.  It is only as another turn reveals the east front of the city, crowded with the shipping of all the world, covering more hills than Rome can boast, and flanked in the distance by greater elevations, that the metropolis of the Pacific presents a really attractive aspect.  Situated on the extremity of a narrow peninsula, which divides the ocean from the bay, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The hamlet of Yerba Buena<ANCHOR ID="n16-1">*</ANCHOR>
022.sgm:, from which has developed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:in a quarter of a century the present city, occupied a gentle declivity between the hills and a crescent line of beach whose horns were bluff promontories.  But the pretty cove known to old whalers and pioneer gold-hunters has been filled in to a line drawn straight from point to point, forming several hundred acres of level land, which is now thickly built over and constitutes the commercial heart of the city.  Clark's Point and Telegraph Hill, the northerly promontory of the old cove, have been cut away until they present a sheer precipice of brown siliceous sandstone, nearly two hundred feet high, on the dizzy verge of which rows of houses stand in bold relief against the sky.  On the farther side this declivity slopes down to sand-hills and dunes that stretch along the bay.entrance for several miles and lapse at last into the sea-beach on the western side of the peninsula.  Rincon Hill, the southerly point of the cove, was a less elevated bluff, covered with beautiful shrub oaks, laurel, and ceanothus; but this has been built over, partly cut down facing the lower bay, and quite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:cut through by a leading street which makes an excavation seventy-five feet deep with a talus of garden mould, trees and plants, the <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm: of ruined homesteads, and a crest of dilapidated houses toppling to their fall in a desolate way.  The hills west of the cove, where they have not been quite leveled, filling up ravines and hollows, have been cut through by an arbitrarily rectangular street system, which may be taken as a good type of the invincible but tasteless energy of the pioneer builders, who would rather go rudely over a difficulty than gracefully around it. The resultant inconveniences of steep ascents for man and beast, of dwellings left perched high in air, of repeated expense to modify early blunders are partly compensated by the fact that many of the streets have the most picturesque vistas.  Looking various ways one sees in the perspective villa-crowned cliffs, the craggy peaks or rounded contour of the peninsular hills, the straight blue ridge of San Bruno to the southward, the Golden Gateway cloven through beetling precipices, the dromedary-backed islands of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1">Named from a sweet smelling indigenous plant.</NOTE>
022.sgm:<P>Climbing to the top of this delectable hill, and of Russian Hill near by, some three or four hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:feet above the tide, we take in the whole topography and scenery of this fortunate city.  The peninsula, twenty-four miles in length, and at its northerly end only about four miles wide, is made up of high sandstone and serpentine hills, both ridged and tumular in form, alternating with sandy knolls or long stretches of shifting dunes, and sometimes separated by grassy valleys, shrubby ravines and elevated plateaus.  On one side is the blue Pacific, breaking in foam upon a long sandy' beach; on another the bay, laving the city front and following the many indentations of the inner shore-lines beyond.  If we look northwestwardly, we see the steep bluffs and rocky headlands six or seven hundred feet high, a deep reddish brown in Color, with green slopes above that terminate in the sharp but handsome peak of Tamalpais.  This mountain, about two thousand six hundred feet high, is only a few miles from the city, and rising so abruptly from the bay level is a prominent landmark in every direction for long distances.  It is the terminus of a peculiar straight ridge which ascends <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:gradually from the ocean side like an inclined plain, forming one of the ranges of Marin.  Thickets of chaparral give it a dark color, according to the amount of humidity or sunshine in the air and the strike of the sun's rays.  Under these shifting influences its tints are infinite.  In a perfectly clear atmosphere, its local color comes out strongly, and it seems not one fourth as far away as usual.  A very slight haze clothes it in a tender violet and sets it farther off.  If mists are rolling in from the sea, they circle about its top, and lie in its hollows like fleecy clouds.  A person who stands on its summit at such a time sees below him nothing but a billowy ocean of silver vapor, and enjoys in safety the spectacle that aeronauts attain only by perilous flights.  If the mists are absent, the gorges on the northerly side are seen to be filled with noble groves of the redwood, fir, laurel, madro&ntilde;a, and other trees characteristic of the Coast Range; and there will be, far down, intervales of yellow stubble, relieved by clumps of dark green live-oaks and blooming masses of buckeye and <illus entity="a022-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOUNT TAMALPAIS.</P>
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022.sgm:<P>Looking northward, from one high point within the city, we see the islands of the bay.  Alcatraz, a great brown turtle with red brick forts upon its back, bristling with cannon from all its steep shore-batteries, which have displaced the beautiful pelicans that gave the island its name.  Angel Island, whose cone-like top is nearly eight hundred feet above the tide, a giant mound of grass and flowers in the wet months, of brown stubble in the dry; Goat Island, a dark <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:olive green with its chaparral crown; and smaller islands farther off, where the upper bay pushes its narrower channels between low, mound-like hills covered with wild oats, to meet the yellow discharge of the river that winds lazily through the broad prairies of the interior.  In this direction the vista ends with the high ranges of Sonoma and  Napa, and Mount St. Helena, sixty miles off, lifts its peak of slaty gray over four thousand feet.  Looking eastwardly, across the bay, which is here about five miles wide, we see at the base of the Contra Costa range the Alameda Valley, well deserving its soft Spanish name, for its gentle slopes are partly covered with dense groves of the California live-oak ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus agrifolia</HI>
022.sgm: ), quite uniform in the rounded masses of their foliage and their stout gray trunks, though curiously varied in botanical character, often loaded with bunches of mistletoe, and planted with an orchard-like regularity, opening on vistas of water, meadow, and hill.  Here the milder climate permits a luxuriance of native flora which is in marked contrast to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:the rather limited growths of the sandy and windy peninsula, where, within the city limits, the sheltered spots that were once verdant enough, have been mostly buried by the leveling proCess and covered with buildings.  On this favored slope a couple of miles wide and ten or twelve long, half a dozen oak-embowered towns nearly join their suburbs and dot the lesser heights behind them with pretty villas. Chief of these are Oakland and Alameda, which are nearly conterminus for six or seven miles, ending northerly in the charming vicinity of Berkeley, where the State University is growing with noble promise amid groves of oak and bay and laurel, by the margin of a bubbling brook,--a scene destined to be as classical in letters as it is already lovely by nature. The Alameda shore commands a grand view of the bay, the city, the islands, the Golden Gate and its sentinel Tamalpais, and even of the ocean beyond.  The Contra Costa or Alameda mountains rise abruptly above it to an average height of fifteen hundred feet, deeply eroded from summit to base, treeless, except <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:for the beautiful groves smuggled in the winding gorges and passes, which are not visible from the city.  At intervals of a few years, a light snowfall robes them for half a day in winter--a spectacle of wonder in this mild region where the word winter calls up no ideas but those of needed showers, of verdure, and of bloom.  Behind the Alameda hills rises the double cone of Monte Diablo, very near to the view, but separated from the hills named by the San Ramon Valley, and distant from the city easterly about thirty miles.  This peak is three thousand eight hundred and fifty-six feet high.  Rising from the centre of a wide basin which runs into the great valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and being the most elevated spot in this region, Monte Diablo looms up in the perspective of every view in all directions around it, and is one of the most familiar landmarks to the citizen of San Francisco, who sees it daily and almost hourly.  Its dark blue mass lords it nobly over the brown hills of Alameda, and when it takes on its snowy cap for a few days in the rainy season it <illus entity="a022-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOUNT DIABLO</P>
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022.sgm:is more peculiarly prominent.  It is a great sun-dial, for the stages of the coming or going day are marked in bands of shifting color upon its top.  Around its base, fertile valleys swell to meet its foot-hills as if they would embrace it, and hold a score of thrifty towns.  From its summit one of the most extensive and beautiful views in the Union can be obtained. The great plains of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, stretching from the northeast to southwest nearly three hundred and fifty miles; the rivers of the same names winding their yellow currents from north and south, meeting at the head of the upper bay; the vast bulk of the Sierra Nevada with its snowy crest, along the eastern sky, from Lassen's Peak at one extremity to Mount Whitney at another; the isolated "Buttes" of Marysville in the centre of the Sacramento Valley; the line of the Coast Range from Mount St. Helena on the north, to Mount Hamilton, four thousand four hundred feet high, at the south, broken into lesser spurs around the bay; the whole scenery of the bay itself, the City, the Golden <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:Gate, the ocean beyond,--all this magnificent panorama, in clear weather, lies spread out before the spectator on the summit of Diablo.  The area included within the bounds of this view is probably not less, according to Professor Whitney, than forty thousand square miles; adding what can be seen of the ocean it is much more.  It might well have been on such a commanding height as this that the enemy of mankind tempted the Saviour; and an early Spanish legend, to which the mountain owes its name, actually located here a terrifying appearance of the devil to a party of explorers.  This legend would seem to indicate a belief that the mountain is of volcanic origin, as it has been said to be by some writers; but it is simply a grand mass of metamorphic sandstone, flanked by jasper, shales, and slates, with limited coal-beds at its base and deposits of cretaceous fossils.  The gap between the two peaks is eight hundred feet deep, and the north peak is nearly three hundred feet lower than its companion.  From certain points of view the two peaks are brought into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:line and have the effect of a single perfect cone. Seen from the upper bay, or river, the mountain seems to rise in this shape directly from the water's edge, and is very imposing in its near bulk.  The ascent of it from any quarter, with the ever expanding outlooks revealed, is full of picturesque charm. The nearer scenery of the foot-hills and lower flanks--embracing graceful wavelets of harvest-land, melting into level spaces, deep gorges filled with evergreen growths, sandstone cliffs weathered into fantastic forms, and bits of charming brooks and grassy springs--is itself a treat to the lover of nature. Sunrise and sunset are the best hours for visiting the summit.  At the former, the air is clearest, and one gets the widest view, besides the glorious spectacle of the great round orb flashing up above the crest of the Sierra, bringing its highest peaks of snow into sharp relief.  The shadow of the peak is thrown in a pyramidal form over the whole country to the west, across the Alameda hills, the bay and peninsula of San Francisco, and into the ocean beyond, forty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Returning again to our hill in the city, one overlooks the undulations of the metropolis all around him, and has a vivid sense of the abounding energy, increased by the stimulus of a dry and equable climate, which created the place from nothing.  Over the populous levels to the west and south, which lie <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:like gulfs between California Street Hill and the Mission Hills, hang vapors and smokes that the evening sun transforms into beautifying haze, like those gauzy veils that women wear to enhance their charms.  The Mission Hills bound a plain where stands Dolores and still rings its centuried bell, in the heart of the busy community which has succeeded its primitive congregation of simple savages.  These hills, eight or ten hundred feet high, dividing two extremities of the city, are brown and barren enough near at hand, though always graceful with their cap-like peaks, and richly dight with buttercups and poppies in the spring, or with purple at all seasons when the setting sun makes them aflame.  Farther in' the same direction the high walls of the San Bruno Mountains are drawn in darker purple along the sky, the bristling fir trees scattered on their summits, distinctly visible, calling to the citizen's mind memories of the solemn, sonorous woods that look upon the sea. From the base of these mountains, which mark the breaking down of the Santa Cruz Range, stretches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>But before day closes let us descend to an intervale lying farther west, and thence climb the ridge which is crowned by the monumental peak of Lone Mountain, around whose slopes, looking both towards the city and the sea, all the worry and passion and pride of the hard metropolis sink at last into the grave.  The noisy town on one side, and the still blue Pacific on the other, of these thousands who have gone before, are apt emblems of the lives they led, and the peace they have found.  The city thins into scattered hamlets, that are lost in drifting sand; and beyond one sees the ocean, hears the faint roar of its surf, and, when the air is clear enough, catches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:glimpses of the Farallon Islands, thirty miles away, where the imagination pictures the sharp gray cliffs populous with seals, gulls, and murres.  Among the sand, on every hand are hillocks of green shrubbery, with intervales of grass, hollows filled with ceanothus thickets and groves of stunted live-oak, and even a lakelet or two, where a great park is in progress of creation.  The mists that often roll in over the seaward slope maintain an olive-tinted verdure through the long rainless summer; but the landscape, except on the sunniest days, when little or no wind blows, is sombre and melancholy.  After the rains begin, in October or November, and thence until May or June, extensive thickets of lupin and ceanothus, encroaching on the drifting sands, take on a brighter green and burst into profuse bloom, blending their tints of lemon and purple and blue, and scenting the air with honeyed sweets for miles.  Orange-colored poppies contest the open spaces with shining buttercups; the grassy slopes of the San Miguel Mountains are dotted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>At this season, also, the more distant landscape southward, and on the eastern side of the bay, as well as north of the Golden Gate, takes on a light pea-green, to which the vaporous air rising from the water gives a soft gray tint as seen from the city. No color can be imagined more delicate through the day, or more lovely in its softening tint of violet at evening.  And a constant phenomenon of sunset is the flush of pale pink far up the eastern sky.  When night settles down, the view of the city from the hill-tops, illuminated by long processions of gas-lights paling the wan stars above, is singularly impressive. Looked at from the bay side, approaching on the water, the night aspect of the city is still more striking; for details are lost, and only the thick lights as they climb the hills are seen as so many ruddy stars against a dark background,--those on the wharves and shipping casting long, tremulous reflections in front.</P>
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022.sgm:<P>How fortunate is San  Francisco in these picturesque surroundings and effects!  How fortunate again in the high points within her limits and suburbs, which command one panoramic view from ocean to mountain, around the shores of the peninsula and the bay.  Scenically, there is no other American city so happy.  And then the climate of summer and spring, whose means of temperature vary only ten or twelve degrees, the seasonable succession of dry and wet, of russet and green, the alternations of clear and misty air, are circumstances which give a peculiar variety to the scenic effects.  The city landscapes have their moods, as though they were human. When the atmosphere is transparent and still, the town glows with a mild heat; the bay is like blue satin with shadings of pink; the mountains on every side are wonderfully bold and near, revealing every detail of their sculpture as well as the strength of their local color; the sand-dunes lie still against the bluest sky; and the ocean wears an expression exquisitely dreamy and gracious.  Sparkle and motion, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE FAWN ON 'CHANGE.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>(CALIFORNIA STREET, SAN FRANCISCO.) <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>IT stood amid an eager crowd<LB>Of brokers on "the street"--<LB>A mild-eyed fawn, led by a thong<LB>That checked its impulse fleet.<LB>Its pretty hairy sides were brown,<LB>Its ears were large and soft,<LB>And lightly moved its little hoofs<LB>As though they trod a croft.<LB>A cruel hunter killed its dam<LB>While browsing in a glade<LB>Of redwood hills, and saved the fawn<LB>For profit in a trade.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">And so it came to Mammon's court,<LB>Where fearlessly it stood<LB>As though beside its dam again<LB>Within its native wood.<LB>How many features hard and stern<LB>Relaxed before its grace!<LB>How many hands were gently laid<LB>Upon its pretty face!<LB>Like guileless babyhood it touched<LB>Those avaricious men,<LB>Who stopped to meet its lovely eyes,<LB>And turned to look again.<LB>The hidden springs of feeling, choked<LB>By sordidness so long,<LB>Welled up within them as they gazed,<LB>And bubbled into song--<LB>A quiet song, that filled the soul<LB>With memories of days<LB>When eyes as soft, of girls as pure,<LB>Beamed on them love and praise;</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">With memories of days afield,<LB>When nature, for the boy,<LB>Had still a charm that made him thrill<LB>With health-bestowing joy.<LB>And as they pass along they see,<LB>Far down the avenue<LB>Of busy trade, a purple line<LB>Of hills against the blue.<LB>Where bay and oak the gorges fill,<LB>And velvet shadows lie,<LB>And birds uprising from the wave<LB>In lazy circles fly.<LB>They smell the wild rose in the street,<LB>And far beyond the town<LB>They seem to wander, where the lark<LB>His melody pours down.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>EVERYWHERE in California the Spaniards or Spanish-speaking Mexicans left the soft nomenclature of the most musical language of Europe.  They saw much here to remind them both of Spain and Mexico, in the lofty Sierras capped with snow, in the broad valleys, in the rich contrasts of russet and green tints under a cloudless sky.  Hence it was natural to transfer to the new land many of the names familiar in the old.  The religious sentiment of the Mission Fathers and their followers led them to add names of sacred meaning, equally musical.  From these two causes it results that California rejoices in a nomenclature which both recalls visions of Old Spain and revives the religious traditions of the Middle Ages.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>These mountains have a base about twenty-five miles wide, and an elevation of from two thousand to nearly four thousand feet, including several characteristic peaks.  As they consist chiefly of sandstone, they have been eroded during tens of centuries, by the copious winter rains of this climate, into most picturesque forms.  Their slopes are channeled with deep ravines, their crests cut through by numerous passes, dividing conical or tabular summits, and their bases, spread out in tumuli-like foot-hills, gradually sink into level benches or valleys.  At one place near Santa Cruz the sandstone of the lower slopes has weathered into forms curiously resembling columnar ruins and castellated piles.  Along the ocean it is cut into cliffs and walls that loom gray and resplendent, and against which the surf dashes and roars without rest; though the harvest may be yellow to the very edge above, where bloom purple flowers fed on the spray.  But the glory of the mountains is their magnificent forest of redwood, which clothes all their upper flanks in perennial verdure, and grows <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>There are two ways of going over the range from the inner valleys, and each has its special features. Turning to the westward from the pretty oak-nest. ling town of San Mateo, which lies in a narrow vale crowded between the bay and the Sierra Morena branch of the Santa Cruz Range, the stage leads op the San Mateo Creek,--a little trout-stream embowered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:with chestnut oaks, with densely-leaved and aromatic bay trees, with tall, straight alders rooted in the very water, and with many flowering shrubs, its lower banks curtained by hanging vines or edged with mosses and tufted grass.  What an exquisite sheltering from the summer glare outside, which burns down on rolling hills yellow with grain or stubble, where only rare clumps of shrub oak or buckeye relieve the sight with patches of grateful shade, or the madro&ntilde;a shows its smooth, ruddy bark and lustrous waxen leaves, dwarfing the not dissimilar manzanita. Leaving the creek, and going steadily upward, the road curves among lofty rounded hills, that wave their green or yellow harvests in rippling lines along the sky edge on either side, producing a most curious effect of color and motion.  Nothing can be softer than the myriad wavelets of light and shade, while the breeze-tossed grain rolls ceaselessly against the blue heaven far above the eye.  And so we reach a narrow summit some two thousand feet above the valley and the bay, and have a rich prospect as we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:gaze down upon them and beyond to the treeless ridges of the Mount Diablo range.  Immediately descending again, we enter a long and narrow pass, cut deep in the western slope, which leads almost straight to the Pacific, opening a free view of the blue ocean and its white crescent lines of surf beating upon the green beach of Half Moon Bay.  This gorge is comparatively treeless; but its lower slopes are cultivated, and along the black, loamy banks of its little stream are patches of the yellow primrose and sweet-brier, of spotted tulips, golden poppies, and purple lupins.  The moist sea air keeps the grass always green, and we seem to have suddenly reached another climate than that of the warm and dry interior, with its prevalent summer colors of russet and chrome.  A most exhilarating dash, with the ocean always in view ahead, brings us to the shore, where we turn southward through uneven benches cultivated to vegetables and grain, hugging the rugged hills on one side, and gazing with unflagging zest at the continuous lines of surf on the other.  The day's journey <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:ends at Pescadero, a white, snug, New England looking village, on the level banks of a creek by the same name, which puts down from the redwoods to the sea and empties through a rolling pasture-land two miles from the town.  Judging from its name, Pescadero must have been, in Mexican times, a favorite fishing resort; indeed it is yet, for the numerous streams in the vicinity abound in trout, other varieties of fish Coming up with the tides from the sea, and the very surf on the shore containing a peculiar viviparous fish, the catching of which is amusing just in proportion to its uncertainty.  The little oblong valley where the village stands was once a salt marsh, and is still a marsh at its seaward extremity.  Shut in by long, wave-like hills, which are always green with chaparral thickets where they are not made into hay and grain fields, its proximity to the ocean is announced only by the morning mists and by the distant roar of the surf, which reminds one at night of the solemn monody of Niagara.  The rolling upland that leads out to the Pacific is a rich pasture, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:and forms part of a famous dairy range.  Among the grass, within reach of the drenching spray, wild strawberries are plentiful in the season.  Suddenly this pasture edges upon a steep bluff that overlooks the ocean.  At the foot of this bluff, and shallowing out to the rocky bar, lies a beach composed of wonderfully clean and beautiful pebbles, including jasper, agates, carnelians, and other siliceous stones, derived from an adjacent stratum of coarse friable sandstone, and worn lustrously smooth by constant rolling on the surf, which flings them back in huge windrows daily. The opaline, pearly, amethystine, amber, and ruby tints of these pebbles are enhanced as they lie wet at the edge of the surf.  One seems to have fallen, like Sinbad, upon a Golconda of gems.  The labor of picking out the most beautiful of the small pebbles, which may not be larger than a pea, is very fascinating. People go to the beach to stay for an hour or two, and remain all day, reluctant to leave at last.  Sober men of business, with hard lines of care on their faces, who put a monetary value on time, give themselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:up to the beguilement almost as willingly as women and children.  Groups of both sexes and all ages can be seen lying prone for hours, scratching with their hands for rare stones, shouting with pleasure when successful, or with pretty alarm when the surf pushes hissingly up to where they lie, leaving behind iridescent bubbles and brighter gleaming pebbles.  As the surf breaks and foams over the flat rocks running out from the beach, it has a singularly reverberant yet soothing sound, varied by the thunderous roar that comes at intervals from the cliffs near by, where the spray tosses up to a great height. In the pools among the rocks, at low tide, one sees numerous beautiful polyps, grafted on the rocks like living chrysanthemums of the sea--animal flowers indeed.  Upon  neighboring benches of sand the pearly shell of the abalone is found, with many handsome varieties of alg&aelig;.  Only five miles from this beautiful beach begin the superb forests of redwood which stretch up the western flanks of the Santa Cruz Mountains.  A drive of three miles into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:hills beyond Pescadero, the narrow roadway frequently embowered with willows, cottonwood, alder, and bay trees, takes us into the very heart of a dense and solemn grove, whence sunlight and sound are alike excluded, and the slightest motion or chirrup of a tree.squirrel seems a disturbance.  The redwood is a species of the same genus (sequoia) to which the Big Trees of Calaveras and Mariposa belong, and rivals the latter in magnitude as it resembles them in general appearance.  Nowhere else than in California is any species of this genus found, except as a fossil relic of a past geological epoch.  But the redwood surpasses the Big Tree in general effect, because, as Professor Brewer says, it frequently forms the entire forest, while the Big Tree is nowhere found except scattered among other trees, and never in clusters or groups isolated from other species.  In the graphic words of Professor Whitney: "Let one imagine an entire forest, extending as far as the eye can reach, of trees of from eight to twelve feet in diameter, and from two hundred to three hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:feet high, thickly grouped, their trunks marvelously straight, not branching till they reach from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet above the ground, and then forming a dense canopy, which shuts out the view of the sky, the contrast of the bright, cinnamon-colored trunks with the sombre deep yet brilliant green of the foliage, the utter silence of these forests, where often no sound can be heard except the low thunder of the breaking surf of the distant ocean,--let one picture to himself a scene like this, and he may, perhaps, receive a faint impression of the majestic grandeur of the redwood forests of California."  Some of the redwoods in the forests near Pescadero measure from fifteen to twenty feet in diameter.  Near Santa Cruz there is a grove containing equally large trees.  Members of the Geological Survey have reported trees in the northern part of the Coast Range from twenty-five to thirty feet in diameter, and three hundred feet high.  A hollow redwood stump exists near Eureka in which thirty-three pack-mules were stabled together.  Near the summit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The half day's drive from Pescadero to Santa Cruz, along the coast hills, and often over the very beach, is most exhilarating and picturesque.  Always the rumpled folds of the bare sandstone mountains on one side, and the sunny surf and rolling ocean on the other, with occasional passages through ravines canopied by evergreen oaks and laurels, glimpses of white sails along the watery horizon, and precipitous outlooks over reefs where ships have been wrecked and their crews lost.  A whale that is common off the coast, and is often pursued and captured by hardy men in small boats, who make this pursuit a business, is frequently seen blowing up his shining fountain of vaporous breath.  At Pigeon Point there are odorous reminders that here leviathan is brought to the martyr's trial of fire for the good (oil) that is in him.</P>
022.sgm:<P>Santa Cruz stands on a triple terraced plain between the mountains of the same name and the lovely Bay of Monterey.  Two long promontories jutting out about ten miles from the main-land, and about twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:miles apart, form the circular bay which is named from the old town on its lower side, Santa cruz being on the upper side.  The portion of sea thus inclosed is more delicately blue than the open ocean, and usually more tranquil.  Nothing can be more graceful than the bent bow line of its glistening sand beach, whereon the surf breaks gently, accenting with its whiteness the tender blue of the water beyond.  Behind the broad terraced valley which margins the bay, and which is dotted with groves of live-oak disposed in an order almost artificial, rise the mountains above a tier of foot-hills, to a height of three thousand feet, dark with their forests of redwood and fir, but taking on in certain conditions of the atmosphere deliciously soft tints of purple and violet and gray.  It was in the midst of this noble landscape, equal to anything on the shores of the Mediterranean, that the Franciscan friars founded several of their earliest missions, raised the towers of their picturesque churches, which recall Castile and Granada, and labored to convert the simple aborigines.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:The ascent of the mountains from this side affords a series of grand views, including deep gorges, outcroppings of gray rock, vistas of red-trunked conifers, vapor-girdled peaks, undulating valleys, winding streams, oak-embowered villages, and deep blue ocean.  Above the crest of the range is the dark peak of Loma Prieta, luminous at sunset in a rich purple haze.  At last the redwood forest completely shuts off the scenery on the western slope, and as we go eastward the next outlook is upon the oak-covered hills and golden valleys of San Jose and Santa Clara, bounded again by the bare brown mountains of Alameda, which skirt the inner shores of San Francisco Bay, and stretch southward to the connecting ridges of the Gavilan.  If the season is spring, all this region will be clad in a garment of light green, having an undertone of that soft gray so loved by painters, and variegated by wild-flower patches of every color, while silvery clouds will move idly in mid-heaven, casting their shadows over the landscape. Such are the contrasts of a climate which has two seasons, of a land <illus entity="a022-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LOMA PRIETA</P>
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022.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Where birds ever sing, and summer and spring<LB>Divide the mild year between them;<LB>Where the light-footed hours are told by gay flowers<LB>That need no hot-house to screen them;<LB>Where there's gold on the plain, in the ripe waving grain,<LB>And gold in the far purple hills;<LB>Where the tall, sombre pine giveth place to the vine,<LB>And the bee his sweet treasury fills.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>AUTOCHTHONES.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>No bronzed Apollos of the wood<LB>Those simple folk of El Dorado,<LB>Who peopled once the solitude<LB>From Shasta to the Colorado.<LB>But, short of stature, plain of mien,<LB>And lacking all the sculptured graces,<LB>They still were part of every scene,<LB>And song and science seek their traces.<LB>No monument of art arose<LB>Where once they dwelt in densest numbers;<LB>The curious modern only knows<LB>By kitchen-heaps the tribe that slumbers.<LB>Or, raking in the blackened soil,<LB>He finds the tips of spears and arrows,</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Wrought by the ancient artists' toil<LB>To slay all game from man to sparrows.<LB>Yet, artless as they were, and still<LB>As history will be about them,<LB>They did their Mother Nature's will<LB>And Nature could not do without them.<LB>They were the Adams of the land,<LB>Who gave to hill and vale and river,<LB>To every tranquil scene or grand,<LB>The titles that recall the giver.<LB>While soft Solano spreads her plain,<LB>And lifts his head, tall Yallowballey--<LB>The vanished people will retain<LB>A monument in hill and valley.<LB>Yosemite their name inscribes<LB>On cataract and granite column;<LB>And Tahoe murmurs of their tribes<LB>Among her peaks and forests solemn.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE FIRST PEOPLE.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>THESE sketches of scenery in California would be incomplete without some reference to the primitive people who once enjoyed that scenery exclusively, and who still remain here and there a picturesque element of it.  Nature will not be divorced from her children.  In their rudest estate their presence enhances her charms, and valley, hill, and stream derive added interest from human association.  After many hours, perhaps days, of lonely travel amid wild scenery, when the solitude of forests or the monotonous expanse of great plains has become oppressive, what a relief it was, in the days of youthful adventure, to see the smoke of an Indian camp curling up from a piney gorge, to come suddenly upon the comical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:bark shelters which served the red man in the higher mountains, or to meet at the turn of a valley stream a village of earth mounds, whose simple denizens regarded the stranger with naive curiosity.  To this day, the few survivors of once numerous tribes remain as picturesque figures in many a landscape that would be less effective without them.  They harmonize with earth, and rock, and tree, as well as the larks and quails, and places dispeopled of them seem to lack completeness.  How much everywhere the presence of man modifies the aspect of a country. By what he does, or by what he leaves undone, the region he inhabits is made more or less attractive. One race, or one stage of culture, adapting itself to improving upon natural conditions, enhances the beauty of its habitat.  Another race or stage of culture, violating or neglecting those conditions, lessens or obliterates that beauty.  All the Indian tribes of America lived in such a way as to leave the natural charms of their land unimpaired.  They neither extirpated forests nor impoverished the soil.  The sites <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:of their encampments and villages were usually the most lovely spots.  Even the aborigines of California, reckoned among the lowest of their kind, seemed to have a preference for the prettiest places.  In the valleys, their villages would occupy a knoll or bluff overlooking the river and giving far vistas of the flowery plain through natural parks of oak.  In the foot-hills, they would be found on some grassy slope by running water or perennial springs, under or near the shelter of pleasant groves.  It is common to attribute the selection of such sites to an instinct for the beautiful, but there is really no good reason to credit these Indians, if any, with such a decided feeling for natural beauty as would be required to determine their choice of localities for camps or homes. The ideas and sentiments which make men fond of fine landscapes are largely the result of culture.  It is only in the literature of refined nations that they assert themselves.  That the Indian village has a fine site or commands the best view in the neighborhood is only a coincidence.  He camps or builds where he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:finds the most suitable conditions for his mode of life.  If in the great valleys of California he dwells by stream and grove, it is to be near water and fishing, and where, in the summer, he can be screened from the intense heat of the sun.  If he choose a knoll or bluff, it is because his hut and his ricks of acorns and cereals will be secure against the floods that often spread over the lower land.  On the same principle he selects banks of brooks or the grassy mounds of springs, in the hills, because they furnish him water and umbrageous shelter.  In short, utility and not beauty is his aim; and it happens that just the conditions which are useful to him enhance scenical beauty.  By the reflex action of this there may in time be developed in savage man esthetic appreciation, which doubtless grew at first by some such process of evolution.  Without being too curious on this point, however, let us be thankful to whatever cause put the figure of the red man am id scenes that would be less interesting without him. Looking back twenty-five or thirty years, we recall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>It must be said now that the aborigines of California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:are rapidly passing away.  Their number in 1823 was estimated at one hundred thousand.  Forty years later, in 1863, returns to the Indian Bureau made it twenty-nine thousand three hundred.  At the present time it probably falls below twenty thousand, a quarter part of whom are in government reservations or living under the protection and in the care of farmers; while here and there, especially in the mountains, a few depleted tribes still enjoy the freedom of their ancestors.  Many beautiful valleys, once populous with them, know them no longer.  The pioneer Yount, who settled in Napa Valley in 1830, used to say that it then contained thousands of Indians of the larger tribe that gave the valley its name; there are now only a few vagabond survivors haunting the purlieus of town and farm.  Probably the largest portion of the California Indians was always to be found in the big valleys of the interior, and those lesser ones lying between the spurs of the Coast Range, for it was in these localities that game, fish, seeds, and esculents were most abundant and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:easily obtained.  These lowland tribes looked sleek and well fed.  They were more amiable and less warlike than their brethren of the highlands, who were often a terror to them.  In the southern part of the State, along the coast, they were largely brought under the influence of the Mission Fathers; but in the northern interior they had not had much contact with our race until after the American occupation. Twenty-one missions were established between the years 1769 and 1820, extending from San Diego, in the extreme southern portion of the State, to the neighborhood of the Bay of San Francisco, near its centre, that at Sonoma being the last and most northerly.  In the region above Sononia, reaching to the Oregon border, and embracing an area three hundred and fifty miles long by one hundred or more wide, the aborigines knew very little of the greedy whites who have since displaced and nearly exterminated them.  A few trappers and hunters, mostly Canadians in the employ of the Hudson Bay Company, had visited the head of the Sacramento Valley in search <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:of otter and beaver.  Some of the <HI REND="italics">voyageurs</HI>
022.sgm: had even been accompanied by small bands of Oregon Indians, of more nomadic and warlike habits.  At one time, early in this century, the Spanish governor of the then province of Alta California sent a military expedition from Monterey to the Sacramento Valley, to drive out some Russians who were reported to be there, but who were not found; and old Gilroy, who was one of the party, used to tell how numerous the Indians were, and how much they were frightened by the discharge of a small howitzer from a mule's back,--for such was the primitive artillery of this quaint expedition.  Between 1835 and 1848, American emigrants began to establish "ranches" in the Sacramento and northern coast valleys.  The docile natives readily gathered about them, sometimes for protection against the mountain Indians, and even engaged in their service as farm hands.  Their labor was always voluntary, and the control over them was usually gentle.  No concerted efforts were made to teach them religion or letters.  They maintained their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:tribal organization as before, and followed all their old habits.  They were attracted to labor only by their desire for beads, blankets, garments, and some articles of our food of which they became very fond.  Gradually, as the lands along the rivers were occupied, game driven away, and their fish-dams torn down to make way for steamboats and sailing craft, the Indians mostly retired to the hills, whence, impelled by the sharp edge of a new appetite, they made thieving descents on cattle-folds and stables.  The settlers then too often regarded and treated them as enemies to be killed on sight.  Many of the early border-men, who recognized no difference between these and the fierce, more aggressive savages they had known elsewhere, regarded them as natural enemies from the first, and would fire upon them as readily as upon a coyote.  As late as 1850, however, many of the northern tribes were living undisturbed in their primitive condition, snaring geese and brant on the plains; crawling upon the antelope in the tall grass with deceiving antlers on their heads; catching salmon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:and sturgeon nearly as long as themselves; making baskets and network, bows and arrows, and capes of feathers; wearing little clothing, ordinarily, but decorated sticks through the lobes of their ears and fringed aprons of tule (a kind of reed) about their loins; tooting mournfully on their little flutes, made by removing the pith of certain woods; gambling at their native games with excited vociferation; sweating themselves in the great medicine houses;  howling over their burnt or buried dead,--for they both cremated and inhumed,--and generally behaving in a way most uncivilized, but quite satisfactory to themselves; a good-natured and harmless race, as a rule, liking the neighborhood of the whites when justly treated, and seldom presuming upon kindness.  By their labor on the farms, when most of the whites were digging for gold, they helped in the first development of home agriculture, and thus played an important part in the early resources of the State, as before they had aided in building up and maintaining the mission settlements.  It has been only since their numbers were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>During the various rambles which furnished the material for these sketches of California scenery the writer was much interested in observing the evidences of former Indian occupation and handicraft.  He had seen, a quarter of a century ago, that the tribes unaffected by contact with our civilization presented a perfect picture of the arts and customs of the later Stone age, when implements or weapons were polished, and when woven and braided fabrics were made, and earthen huts gave the first kind of architecture.  He had exhumed from considerable depths <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:in the auriferous gravel deposits of the Sierra stone mortars and pestles and arrow-heads, like those still used by living tribes.  In later journeys, therefore, it was a pleasant incidental task to follow again in the footsteps of the first people.  There is no reason to believe that any tribes dwelt permanently at great elevations in the Sierra Nevada, if anywhere within the deep snow-line.  In the summit valleys, about the lakes, and at the sources of streams, where these wild children of nature would find it most convenient and pleasant to live, the elevation above the sea is from five thousand to seven thousand feet, and the snow falls to a depth of from ten to twenty feet, continuing on the ground from November or December until June or July.  Most of the lakes at this season are frozen and covered with snow; even the smaller streams are often banked over with snow; and the game has fled to the lower portion of the range. But while the Sierra was not the constant home of the Indians, they resorted thither regularly in the summer season, from  June or July to November, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:except when they were denizens of the great lower valleys, which supplied them with all they needed in every season; these were, moreover, occupied by the less warlike tribes, who were seldom able to cope with their hereditary foemen of the mountains.  The summit region of the Sierra Nevada furnished good fishing in its lakes and some of its streams; deer and mountain quail and grouse abounded; huckleberries, thimble-berries, wild plums, choke.cherries, gooseberries, and various edible roots were tolerably plentiful; the furry marten, weasel-like animals, woodchucks, and squirrels were tempting prey; the water was better, and the climate cooler, than at a less elevation; hence this region was the summer resort of Indians from both slopes of the range, and often the possession of a valley by lake or river was decided by battle between the various tribes from Nevada and California. The Hetch-Hetchy Valley, or "Little Yosemite," for instance, was, up to  a very recent date, disputed ground between the Pah-Utahs, from the eastern slope, and the Big Creek Indians, from the western <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:slope, who had several fights, in which the Pah-Utahs (commonly called Piutes) were victorious.  This statement was made to the California Academy of Sciences by Mr. C. F. Hoffman of the State Geological Survey, on the authority of Joseph Screech, a mountaineer of that region; and similar statements have been made to the writer by old mountaineers, with reference to the -Yosemite Valley and other former aboriginal resorts along the summit of the Sierra.  As the mountain Indians, and those of the Nevada plateau, were comparatively nomadic in their habits, they left few or none of the large black mounds, indicating long and constant residence, which were left so abundantly by the mud-hut builders of the Sacramento basin.  Pieces of bark stripped from fallen pines or firs, and slanted on end against tree-trunks or poles, with a circle of stones in front for a fire-place, were the usual shelter of the California mountain tribes, except that in the northern extremity of the State, where the winter climate is more rigorous, some of the tribes--notably the Klamaths and their Congeners--built <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Along the summit of the Sierra Nevada there is scarcely any memento of them to be found, except the arrow-heads shot away in hunting or fighting, or the broken arrow-heads and chips from the same to be gathered at places which have evidently been factories of aboriginal weapons.  The most notable find of this latter sort made by the writer was at the Summit Soda Springs, a most picturesque spot at the head of the northernmost fork of the American River, nine miles south of Summit Valley Station, on the Central Pacific Railroad.  Here, at an elevation of about six thousand three hundred feet above the sea, the river breaks through a tremendous exposure of granite, which it has worn into natural <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:gorges several hundred feet deep, except where it runs rapidly through valley-like glades of coniferous woods, in which the new soil is covered with a rank growth of grasses, flowering plants, and shrubs, where the deer come to drink at the salt-licks, and the piping of quails is constantly heard, alternating with the scolding cry of jays and the not unpleasant caw of the white-spotted Clark crow.  Just in the rear of the public house kept at this locality, the river tumbles in slight falls and cascades over slanting or perpendicular walls of richly colored granite, shaded by beautiful groves of cedar and yellow pine, which grow in the clefts of the rock to the very edge of the stream, and crown the dark cliffs above.  On the rounded tops of the ledge overlooking these foaming waters, on both sides of the stream, the Indians used to sit fashioning arrow-heads and other weapons of stone.  This was their rude but romantic workshop; and the evidences of their trade are abundant on the sloping rock, in the coarse, granitic soil which forms the talus of the ledge, and in the blackened litter of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:their ancient camp-fires.  They have left one record of themselves at this locality which is quite remarkable.  A shelving ledge of granite on the right bank of the stream, worn to an even and almost smooth surface by glaciers or snow-slides, is covered for a hundred feet with rudely scratched characters, circles or shields inclosing what may have been meant for animal forms or other symbols of expression.  They appear to have been cut or scratched on the ledge in comparatively recent times, for the very shallow incisions reveal a fresher rock than the general surface.  The California Indians are not known to have possessed any method of writing, pictorial or otherwise; but these curious rock markings may have had some meaning to the people who made them. In the <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
022.sgm: about this sculptured ledge, as well as in that among the rocks on the other side of the river, before it had been disturbed by visitors to the springs, fragments of arrow-heads, and chips of the materials composing them, could readily be found.  Their flat shape and light specific gravity caused them to wash <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>The Indians that congregated at this point, summer after summer, whether from Utah or California, employed in arrow-head making every variety of siliceous rock, of slate, spar, and obsidian or volcanic glass. The larger heads were made of slate and obsidian, which materials also served for spear-heads, used in spearing fish, and from two to four inches long.  Obsidian seems to have been better adapted for all sorts of heads than any other material.  It could be shaped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:with less risk of breaking in the process, and could be chipped to a much sharper edge and point.  The points of some of the small obsidian heads gathered by the writer are so keen, even after burial or surface floating, that a slight pressure will drive them into the skin of the finger.  The greater number of small arrow-heads found, as well as the greater proportion of the chips, consisted of jasper and agate, variously and beautifully colored and marked; of obsidian, of chalcedony, of smoky quartz and feldspar; very rarely of quartz crystal, and in only one instance of carnelian.  While the larger heads measure from an inch and a half to four inches in length, with a breadth of half an inch to an inch and a half in the widest part, the smaller heads measure only from three quarters of an inch to an inch in length, their greatest breadth being seldom more than half an inch.  The latter were evidently intended for small game, such as birds and squirrels.  The workmen seem to have had more difficulty in making them, for they are often found broken and imperfect.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:This was due, not only to their size, but also chiefly to the difference in material, when the small vein-rocks were used, these breaking with a less even fracture, and being full of flaws.  Persistence in the use of such uncertain material, when obsidian was so much better adapted to the purpose and equally abundant, would seem to have been dictated by a rudimental taste for the beautiful.  A collection of the jasper, chalcedony, agate, and crystal heads and chips presents a very pretty mixture of colors, and the tints and handsome markings of these rocks could not but have influenced their selection by the Indians, who spent upon their manipulation an infinite amount of care and patience.  It is interesting to note even so slight an evidence of taste in these savages of the Sierra, especially when we remember it was supplemented by the artistic finish they gave to their bows and to the feathered shaft that bore the arrow-head, no less than to the quiver of wild skin in which the arrows were carried.  There is some reason to suppose that the selection of the above <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:materials may occasionally have been decided by the superstitious attribution to them of occult qualities. Nearly all aboriginal tribes, and even some civilized races, have attached a peculiar sanctity and potency to certain stones, and the Chinese to this day give a religious significance to jade.  It is uncertain, however, to what extent such notions obtained among, and influenced the simple savages of California.  None of the rocks used at this Indian workshop were obtained in the locality.  The writer was able to trace their origin to Lake Tahoe, across the western crest of the Sierra, and not less than twelve or fifteen miles from the Soda Springs by any possible trail. There they are so abundant as to have partly formed the beautiful gravel beach for which the lake is so famous.  The obsidian came from the ancient craters that adjoin the lake, the source of those enormous ridges of volcanic material which form its outlet, the ca&ntilde;on of Truckee River.  Doubtless the flints, slates, and obsidian of this region formed objects of barter with the lower country Indians; for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:writer remembers seeing arrow-heads of such material among the Sacramento Valley tribes twenty-five years ago.  On the Lake Tahoe beaches are sometimes found spear-heads five inches long, with perhaps an inch of their original length broken off, generally at the barbed end.  Similar materials were used and to some extent are still used by the mountain Indians in the northern Sierra as far as Mount Shasta, the rocks of the crest furnishing them everywhere along the line of volcanic peaks which dominate the range. In the Coast Range supplies of obsidian were obtained by the northern tribes from the region about Clear Lake, where there is an entire mountain of this material:  The antiquity and former great number of the tribes in this region are attested by the wash of obsidian arrow and spear-heads, flakes and chips, about the shore of the lake.  The beach at the lower end is fairly shingled with them.  About the flanks of Mount Shasta, especially on the McCloud River side, obsidian is again very plentiful, and, with some beautifully variegated jaspers, seems to have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Again, the snow-fall is not so great on the Sacramento as to drive the Indians away in the winter.  Its banks are their preferred home at all seasons.  There they still fish and hunt, and are more nearly in a primitive condition than their kindred farther south, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>It may increase the interest of this sketch to describe the method used in the manufacture of arrowheads, which was the first trade of primitive man. Mr. E. G. Waite, in a paper contributed to the "Overland Monthly," described as follows the process he saw in use among the Indians of central and northern California, in the early days of American settlement.  The rock of flint or obsidian, esteemed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:by the natives for arrow-pointing, is first broken into flat pieces, and then wrought into shape after this fashion: "The palm of the left hand is covered by buckskin, held in its place by the thumb being thrust through a hole in it.  The inchoate arrow-head is laid on this pad along the thick of the thumb, the points of the fingers pressing it firmly down.  The instrument used to shape the stone is the end of a deer's antler, from four to six inches in length, held in the right hand.  The small round point of this is judiciously pressed upward on the edge of the stone, cleaving it away underward in small scales.  The arrow-head is frequently turned around and over to cleave away as much from one side as the other, and give it the desired size and shape.  It is a work of no little care and skill to make even so rude an instrument as an arrow-head seems to be, only the most expert being successful at the business.  Old men are usually seen at this employment.  This manufacture of arrow.heads by a primitive people readily suggests the origin of trade.  In the earlier stages of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:human development, when man wore a skull of the Neanderthal type, the maker of the best weapons was the most successful in coping with the cave bear, hyena, and other animals of the period.  His arrowheads and other arms of stone were models.  Superstition invested them also with an infallible gift to kill.  His well shaped and charmed weapons would be sought after.  Suppose this ancient troglodyte and mighty Nimrod should be wounded and crippled for life in one of his fierce encounters with formidable beasts, what would self-preservation demand, what would be the unanimous voice of his tribe, but that he must become the armorer for the whole?  What better could he do than fashion the arms that would furnish the most food for himself, his family, his kind? 'Bring me, then,' he would say, 'a certain share of the fruits of the chase, and I will give you the instruments that yield the surest rewards.'  Here, then, a skilled artisan began his workshop, the chips of which in piles survive him by thousands of years in the caves of the old world.  Thus barter began, and man, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:little by little engaged in diversity of employment, according to natural or acquired abilities."  The method of finishing arrow-heads described by Mr. Waite as prevailing among the California Indians is substantially the same as that observed by A. W. Chase of the United States Coast Survey, among the Klamaths so recently as 1873.  A drawing made by him of the implement used by the artisan of this tribe closely resembles the figure of such an implement given in Tylor's work on prehistoric art in Europe.  Catlin describes a similar method and instrument in use among the tribes east of the Rocky Mountains. They broke a cobble of flint with a rounded pebble of horn-stone set in a twisted withe as a handle, then selected such pieces as from the angles of their fracture and thickness would answer as a basis Of an arrow-head.  The finishing process is described as follows: "The master workman, seated on the ground, lays one of these flakes on the palm of his left hand, holding it firmly down with two or more fingers of the same hand, and with his right hand, between the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>Going back to the days before the pale-face invaded their land, one can easily recall groups of California aborigines, seated on the picturesque lake and river <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SONG OF THE VAQUERO.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>A LIFE on the prairie long and wide,<LB>Where the wild oats roll in golden tide,<LB>And the hills are blue on either side.<LB>A life on the fleet and eager steed,<LB>With strain of Arab in his breed,<LB>Circling around the herd as they feed.<LB>A life as free as the air I drink,<LB>That flows like wine from the bubbling brink<LB>Of glasses that touch in social drink.<LB>Ha! With a toss of my lasso true,<LB>The stoutest bull of the herd I threw,<LB>As over the vale he wildly flew.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Ha! When the grizzly ventured afield,<LB>Leaving the shelter chaparrals yield,<LB>He fell a prey to the loop I wield.<LB>Ha! With a skill that was surer yet,<LB>I flung my terrible lariat,<LB>And dragged to his death the foe I met.<LB>Juanita smiles as I gallop by;<LB>Soft is the light of her darkling eye,<LB>And red is her lip as the berry's dye.<LB>Juanita smiles, for she knows the hand<LB>That flies the lasso, and the marking brand<LB>With equal skill can the lute command.<LB>Juanita smiles, for she knows the time<LB>Is fixed, for the Mission's wedding chime<LB>When the rain has brought the flowers prime.<LB>Then the glad festa's joy will begin,<LB>The castanet and guitar's sweet din,<LB>As the neighbors all come trooping in.</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Then will the dancers happily beat<LB>The waltz of Castile with lightsome feet,<LB>While horsemen race in the contest fleet.<LB>Then life will be sweet to groom and bride,<LB>Where the wild oats roll their golden tide,<LB>And the hills are blue on either side.</HI>
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022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE TRINITY DIAMOND.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P>IT was a hot June day in 1850, when we started, Brandy and I, from the American River, where we had been for nearly a year unsuccessfully mining, to seek our fortunes on the Trinity.  A tramp of three hundred miles, through a lonely valley and over rugged mountains, lay before us; but we were full of pluck and strength.  Glowing reports had reached us from the far north, and we liked adventure.  The country was new, strange, and unpeopled.  It seemed as foreign to us as the West Indies and Mexico did to the Spanish adventurers under Columbus and Cortez, and we had the same golden dreams that lured those pioneers, tinging all our future with blissful hopes.  Imagine two young fellows, with unkempt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:locks, under broad-brimmed felt hats of a drab color, clad in gray woolen shirts, and blue dungaree trousers--the latter held up by a leather belt about the waist, and tucked into Ion g.legged boots, the belt itself holding a sheath-knife, revolver, tin drinking-cup, and rubber flask; on their backs neatly bundled blankets, strapped across their shoulders, and inclosing a small package of raw pork, sea-biscuit, and tea, while over each bundle lay, bottom up, a large tin pan, glistening in the sun, and suggesting visions of the dairy and rural homes far away.  There you have the portraits of two prospectors.  We belonged to the noble army of explorers that found and opened the treasure-vaults of the Sierra Nevada and Rocky Mountains; that planted the seeds of empire from the upper Missouri to the Pacific;  that whitened western seas and streams with the sails of a new commerce, laid an iron road across the continent, and aroused the sluggish civilization of Asia to new motives.  Those heroes of the pick and pan were not romantic figures; their triumphs were not bloody <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>As for Brandy and I, we trudged on, chatting, whistling, and singing, intent on finding virgin gold. beds far from the crowded placers we had left.  We had read Humboldt; had traced the gold formation through South and Central America and Mexico to California; fancied it must link farther north with that in Siberia, and the Ural Chain, and were resolved to push even beyond the Trinity, if that stream did not enrich us speedily.  Our mining implements, a tent, some cooking utensils, a few clothes, and several months' supply of salt meat and flour, we had sent ahead in a wagon to Reading's Springs, in the Shasta Hills, whence they were to be transferred by pack-mules to Trinity River on our arrival.  The scanty provisions we carried on our backs we expected to eke out with occasional meals at the <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
022.sgm: along the Sacramento River.  One of us carried a rifle, for protection against any unfriendly Indian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:or savage beast that might obstruct our way.  Thus equipped we pushed ahead, averaging thirty miles a day with ease.  The level valley was covered with a ripening growth of wild oats, and looked like a vast harvest-field, bounded on one side by the purple wall of the Coast Range, on the other by the hazy outlines of the more distant Sierra, and ahead only by the dazzling sky, save where an occasional grove of oaks marked a bend or branch of the river, and loomed up in the hot, shimmering air, with an effect as if a silvery sheet of water flooded its site.  It was a lovely spectacle, as this sea of grain, in places as high as our heads, waved its yellowing surface like a true ocean.  The road through it was not well defined after we left Knight's Landing, and we wandered off by Indian trails far from the river; so that, on one occasion, we traveled sixty miles before meeting with water fit to drink.  A few pools, the remnants of the previous winter's flood, were found in hollows of blue, clayey soil, hot, putrescent, and sickening.  At one such place, where a lone tree broke <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:<P>What a delight it was, after a hot tramp, to reach a clear, pebbly creek, to drink and bathe in its waters, and then, under a grove of noble oaks trellised with vines, to drink from the adjoining <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
022.sgm:, and eat blackberries picked by the Indians along the stream. At that time the settlements on the upper Sacramento were few and far between.  They consisted of an adobe house or two, tenanted by a family of mixed races, the man being an American or European, the woman a Mexican or Kanaka; while near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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022.sgm:by were the earthen huts of a few amiable Digger Indians, who did the fishing and hunting, and most of the farm-work, satisfied with blankets, coffee and sugar, and a few old clothes, for their wages.  These <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
022.sgm:<P>One night we stopped at a log cabin lately built by Missouri squatters.  As we neared it, some time after dark, we heard the sound of a fiddle, went to the open doorway, and looked in.  There was a rude bar garnished with a few black bottles.  At one end of the bar sat the fiddler upon a keg, while a number of stout fellows in buckskin were leaning on the bar, or against the log walls.  Presently a tall, broad. shouldered man in a butternut suit opened a rough <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:"shake" door leading into a second apartment, and shouted, "Gentlemen, make way for the ladies!" At this he led forth a female who was "fat and forty," but hardly fair,---a very short and plump person, clad in plain calico, her face shining as if it had been oiled, her eyes bright with laughter.  Behind her came a thin girl of ten or twelve years, who bore traces of a recent struggle with fever and ague, and whose yellow hair hung down in two big braids, tied with blue ribbons.  There was to be a dance, and these were the ladies.  The fiddler struck up "The Arkansas Traveler," and the ball began. Of course every gentleman had to wait his turn for a partner, except as they made what were called "stag couples."  It must be said that the ladies were compliant and enduring.  They danced with every. body and nearly all the time.  They even invited the "stranger" at their gate to "take a turn,"--an invitation that youthful modesty alone caused us to decline.  When we went to sleep under the big oak fronting the cabin, the rasping tones of the backwoods <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>At last we reached Reading's Springs,--a famous mining camp in those days, which has since grown into the town of Shasta.  Here we gave the charge of our outfit to the Mexican owners of a pack.train, and started with them across the mountains for Trinity River.  The train consisted of about thirty mules; and we helped to drive them over a narrow trail which had been marked out with no regard to easy gradients.  The heavily laden brutes grunted and groaned as they tugged up the steep, conical hills between Shasta and Trinity Mountain.  They would often run off into the woods, and then the shouts and curses of the Mexicans, although in mellow Spanish, were startling to the very trees and rocks.  But the hardships of the trip only gave a keener zest to our enjoyment of the mountain air and water, so delicious after our experience in the valley; of the luxuriant and varied vegetation, the aromatic odors of the pines, the music of rippling brooks, the dizzy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:glimpses of vaporous ca&ntilde;ons yawning below, the noble vistas of far peaks as we climbed higher and higher, and sat with beating hearts and white lips on the summit of Trinity Mountain.  Descending this elevation, we reached the river of our hopes, followed its course to the North Fork, and pitched our tent under a tall yellow pine on the bar below the mouth of that stream.  Trinity River is a cold nymph of the hills.  All its course is through the tumultuous peaks that mark the blending of the northern Sierra and Coast Range; and it has always a touch of its native ice.  Whirling through rocky ca&ntilde;ons with foam and roar; darkened by overhanging precipices, by interlacing pine and fir, or hanging vines; gliding into narrow valleys, that margin it with meadows and tremulous-leaved cotton-woods, and spreading out in broader bottoms to coax the sun,--it is still the same cold stream, until it reaches the literally golden sands of its ocean outlet through the Klamath.  When we saw it in 1850, it was beautifully clear, and its wooded banks were wildly picturesque.  Hardly more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>It was a new sensation to strike our picks into the virgin cobble-beds, among tuft grass and thickets of rose-brier; to overturn gray boulders, never disturbed before; to shovel up from the soft bed-rock the gold. seeded gravel that promised a harvest of comfort and happiness.  It was pleasant to have our sweating toil eased by the cool breezes that daily blew up from the sea; though when one of these breezes became a gale, tossed the coals from our camp-fire into our poor tent, and lighted a flame that consumed our shelter and supplies, making the rifle and pistols fire an irregular salute, the sea wind was not blessed.  The nearest trading.post was ten miles below, at Big Bar; and a weary journey it was, over a lofty mountain, to reach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:it, while all that we bought had to be packed on our own backs.  Beef-cattle were lowered down the steep descent by the aid of ropes, and their flesh was precious.  The butcher of Big Flat was an eccentric Yankee.  As meat was fifty cents a pound, the portions without bone were in great demand, for economical reasons.  Liver was in particular request.  As it was impossible to find an ox all liver, and the Strasbourg goose-fattening process would not apply to cattle, our butcher was obliged to adopt some plan to relieve himself of a difficulty.  It was his habit, when a customer asked for liver, to inquire, "Have you a canvas.patch where you sit down?"  And when the customer would naturally respond, "Why, what's that got to do with it?" he would answer, philosophically, "If you have n't got a patch on your breeches, you can't have any liver; that's what.  There is n't liver enough for everybody; there's got to be something to discriminate by, and it might as well be a canvas-patch as anything else."  And to this impartial rule he faithfully adhered, albeit canvas-patches began to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>On the bar where Brandy and I opened a claim and started our rockers only three more men were working.  They owned and operated in common a large quicksilver machine.  We soon knew them as Peter the Dane, English George, and Missouri.  The nomenclature of the early mining epoch was original and descriptive.  Individuals, like places, were named in a way to indicate peculiar traits or circumstances. Thus, my partner, Brandy, whose real name was William,--a slender, fair-skinned, blue-eyed fellow, of temperate habits,--had a high color in his cheeks that a rough comrade called a brandy-blush.  The joke was too good not to live, and so the name of Brandy clung to him for years, being varied occasionally to Cognac, by way of elegant euphemism. Our Trinity River neighbors were all named from their nativity, the signs of which they bore plainly in speech and looks.</P>
022.sgm:<P>Peter had served in the navies of three nations, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:ending with the United States.  He was a young man of cultivation and genius; kept a journal in Greek, to conceal its secrets from his comrades before the mast; acquired English from the library of the man-of-war Ohio; had a good knowledge of our literature; spoke French and German well; was a clever draftsman and musician, and a witty, brilliant talker. But he was only Peter the Dane, except, indeed, when called "Dutch Pete" by a class of Americans who think everybody Dutch (or German) who says "ja." We sympathized on the subject of poetry and music. Indeed, it was my whistling "Casta Diva," while rocking the cradle, that made us acquainted.  He used to recite poems from the Danish of Oehlenschlager, which I would render into English verse.  He went through "Hakon Jarl" in that way--the recitation at night by our campfire, the pines soughing overhead, the river roaring below; a truly appropriate scene for a Norse epic.  The ink to write out my translation I made from the juice of ripe elder berries.  One night Peter and I went to Big Bar, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>George was a simple-minded, ignorant Englishman, credulous and kind-hearted, who had made a voyage or two, when he heard of the gold discovery, worked his passage to San Francisco, and had drifted up to the Trinity, in eager quest of a fortune for his old parents and his sweetheart in England.  He was a good worker, and a good listener.  It was curious that two such men should come together; more curious they should have for a partner Missouri,--familiarly called "Misery,"--a lank, sallow man, with long, straight, yellow hair, tobacco-oozing mouth, broad Western speech, a habit of exaggeration that was always astonishing, and a cold selfishness that he took no pains to conceal.  My partner, Brandy, had been a dentist <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>These comprised the company that used to meet about a common fire at night, smoke their Pipes together, talk of home and its friends, exchange experiences, tell stories, sing songs, and crack jokes at one another's expense.  Peter used to tell of his adventures at sea; often with so much humor that we laughed till our sides ached.  "Misery" related his adventures with "bars" and "Injins," and told us how he "made things bile" when he mined at Hang. town, where the gold poured down his "Tom" in "a yaller stream."  Brandy used to sing "The Old Folks at Home," until the tears came into all eyes but Missouri's though even he grew quiet under its influence.  From how many thousand mining-camps, in early years,--before daily mails, telegraphs, and Pacific Railroad,--went up that song of the heart, with its tender, refining, and saving influence!  Well might old Fletcher say, "Let me make the songs of a nation, and I care not who makes its laws."</P>
022.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>Sometimes we got into controversies--not on politics, for we never saw newspapers nor heard politicians; nor on religion, for we did not know certainly what day was Sunday, nor care for creeds, so long as men were honest and kind.  But literary memories, and subjects connected with our daily life, would provoke talk enough.  One night I wondered if there might not be diamonds in the gold deposits of California--why not along Trinity River?  I had found some very small rubies.</P>
022.sgm:<P>"Oh," said Peter, "they are likely enough to be found, if we would only look for them.  I have fancied them rolling off the hopper of our machine many a time.  They have been found in the mines of the Ural, and I was even told of small ones being found in the southern dry diggings of California. You know something about precious stones, Brandy, what do you think?"  Brandy rejoined: "It is true the diamond is found in gold formations, associated with clay or drift, as in Brazil, Georgia, and North Carolina.  The most famous district is Golconda, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>George listened to this speech with unusual interest.  Missouri declared his intention to look out for ground pebbles "mighty sharp" after this.</P>
022.sgm:<P>Brandy added that diamonds were sometimes found in connection with oxide of iron, and might have a metallic look on their rough surface; and at this George gave him a quick, keen glance.</P>
022.sgm:<P>"Well, it would pay better to find a big diamond than a gold.mine," said Peter.  "Napoleon had a single diamond in the hilt of his sword of state that was worth a million dollars.  It weighed four hundred and ten carats.  The Braganza diamond weighs sixteen hundred and eighty grains, and is valued at twenty.eight million dollars."</P>
022.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>Here "Misery" gave a long whistle, followed by a yelping laugh, and the characteristic exclamation, "That takes my pile."</P>
022.sgm:<P>How big are diamonds found?" asked George, after the laughter excited by the Missourians racy expression of incredulity had subsided.</P>
022.sgm:<P>"Oh, half the size of an egg; as big as a walnut, sometimes," said Brandy, rather wildly.</P>
022.sgm:<P>"As big as a piece of chalk," added "Misery," with a leer that let out the tobacco-juice.</P>
022.sgm:<P>Peter remembered that Empress Catherine of Russia bought of a Greek merchant a diamond as large as a pigeon's egg, which had formed the eye of an idol in India.  A French soldier stole it from the pagoda, and sold it for a trifle.  ("What a dumb fool!" interposed Missouri.) The Greek got four hundred and fifty thousand dollars for it, an annuity of twenty thousand dollars, and a title of nobility.</P>
022.sgm:<P>George's eyes dilated.  I had never seen him taking so much interest in any conversation.</P>
022.sgm:<P>"Ah! if we could only find the other eye?" I suggested, "we might all quit this slavish work." </P>
022.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>"That reminds me," struck in Peter, "that it is the custom in Brazil to liberate a negro who finds a diamond of over seventeen and a half carats.  The search there is followed by some thousands of slaves digging like us.  Since we must dig anyhow, why not keep a keen eye on the hopper?"</P>
022.sgm:<P>"Wall, Brandy, kin yer tell us how the diamond comes?" asked Missouri.</P>
022.sgm:<P>"I guess they grow," replied Brandy, with a merry laugh, and a wink at me.</P>
022.sgm:<P>Perhaps there is more in that than you think," said Peter.  "The diamond is proved to have minute cavities; and as it was formed from a solution, it must have been once in a soft state.  It may enlarge when left in its original place--eh?  The darkies believe that diamonds grow; and perhaps this notion originated from their being found sometimes in clusters, like crystals of quartz.  The natives of Golconda had the same notion formerly.  They felt for the diamond with their naked feet, in a black clay, as we hunted for clams at low tide in happy valley, boys."</P>
022.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>All laughed at this conceit.  My partner thought Peter was joking altogether.  The latter said gravely he could quote good authority.</P>
022.sgm:<P>"I remember when I was on board the Ohio, reading the travels of Sir John Mandeville.  He relates that in Ethiopia the diamonds were as large as beans or hazel-nuts, square, and pointed on all sides without artificial working, growing together, male and female, nourished by the dew of heaven, and bringing forth children that multiply and grow all the year.  He testifies that he knew from experiment that if a man kept a small one and wet it with May-dew often, it would grow annually, and wax great."</P>
022.sgm:<P>Here there was another laugh, in which  Peter joined.  George alone looked serious, and inquired if diamonds might not be even bigger than any that had been mentioned.  Brandy thought they might be; he knew nothing to prevent it.  A diamond was of no more account in Nature's operations than any other stone.</P>
022.sgm:<P>George then related with nervous haste, his native <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>Missouri--who was in the habit of gibing George, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>Peter asked how big the stone was, and George replied that it was as big as his fist.  Brandy suggested it was a fine quartz crystal.  If it were a diamond, it would be worth more than anybody could afford to pay; and George might have to remain poor after all, for want of a purchaser.</P>
022.sgm:<P>Peter gravely observed, there was no reason why a larger diamond than any yet known might not be found on Trinity River.  As they had not found much gold, there was more room for preCious stones, and a big one could be divided and sold easily enough.</P>
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022.sgm:<P>George said that it was very bright.  He had often seen it shining in his tent at night; and when he put it in the till of his chest, it shone there in the dark.  He declared he meant to show it to a jeweler, when he went down again.  It might be worth "somethink," if it were no diamond.</P>
022.sgm:<P>Missouri still listened in silence; and no more was said on the subject by any one.  Brandy stirred up the embers of the fire, we lit our pipes again, smoked a short time, sang "The Old Folks at Home," and, separating for the night, went each one to his blankets and to sleep, while the wind roared through the pines like a beating surf, and the rapids rumbled and thundered through the rocky ca&ntilde;on of the river.</P>
022.sgm:<P>The next day Missouri said he was going up the river, to a new trading station he had learned was recently started there, to get some tobacco and powder.  As he might stay over night he would take his blankets, and his rifle of course, for that he always carried on his shortest excursions.  He insisted on a division of the amalgam, as he always did when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>We never saw him again.  Days passed without tidings of him.  We thought he must either have fallen a victim to a grizzly, or to one of his old enemies, the Indians.  One of us went up to the new store at last, and learned that he had not stopped there, except for a drink of whiskey, but had pushed across the mountains toward Weaverville, on the road to Shasta.  His abrupt departure excited little speculation, and was then passed over by all except George, who referred to it at intervals, and became unaccountably moody and discontented.  One night he said he had made up his mind to go to San Francisco: he was sure there must be letters from England.  Peter tried to dissuade him from leaving, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>Later in the summer we prospected several of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:northern streams, finding gold everywhere.  But the Indians were  threatening;  there were  no trading-posts; there was not time to get supplies of our own from Sacramento before winter would set in; and at last we all concluded to return to the lower part of the State.  I went as far as San Francisco, and the next day after my arrival visited the place on Pacific Wharf, described by George, to inquire after him. It was a thin shell of a house, erected at one side of the wharf on the hulk of a bark, that after years of brave service on the ocean had been sunk and abandoned at last in the dock mud.  Only a year old, this house yet had the appearance of age, so weather-stained and toppling was it.  Its lower story was divided into a rude bar-room, eating-hall, and kitchen. Its upper floor was covered with what the sailors call "standee berths," provided only with a straw mattress, pillow, and a pair of heavy, dirty blankets.  Under many of these berths sea-chests had been left on storage by their owners, mostly sailors, who had deserted their ships to run off to the mines.  The landlord <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>Be you a friend of the lad?" he inquired.</P>
022.sgm:<P>I assured him that I was--that we had worked by one another on Trinity River, and he had promised to write to me.</P>
022.sgm:<P>"Well, it's a queer story," said the landlord, a short, thick-built man, with ruddy face, who spoke his mother tongue with many elisions.  "Ye see, George came rushin' in one night from the steamer McKim--she as runs 'tween here an' Sacramento.  He was down from the mines, he said, an' 'ad conic to see old friends and take away his traps.  I told him he would find all there in the chest--ye can see it under the bar 'ere yet, sir--all that his friend had n't taken away. Taken away--friend--what friend?' said George.  'Why, your friend from Trinity River,' sez I; 'the feller with the long, tow hair and fever an ager face, and with terbacker-juice runnin' out of his mouth.'  'Has--he--been--here?' sez George, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:slow like.  'Yes, he's been here,' sez I, and tell I you sent him for some little things in the chest.  'There it is,' sez I; and after he had treated like a gentleman, he pulled it out, took somethink from the till, put it in his shirt pocket, and went off.  Before I could tell him more, sir, the lad--George, sir--made for the chest, opened it quick, rummaged all through it, more 'n once, an' then stood up all white an' glarin'.  'D-- him,' sez he--I never heard the lad swear before--'d-- him, he has stolen my diamond!'  I thought he must be crazy, sir, with that mountain fever, belike, that the miners get in the diggins.  'Why George, lad,' sez I,' you're jokin' me.  How should a poor sailor-boy 'ave a real diamond--least-wise a honest boy like you.'  But George he only lowered at me, an' rushed for the door.  He was off into the darkness an' fog before I could stop him, an' though I looked an' called after the lad, I could n't find him.  Next mornin', when I opened the bar early, I seen a crowd standin' beyond there, sir, nigh the end O' the wharf.  A man comin' from it told me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<P>The good fellow's voice grew husky as he spoke. I could not speak myself for a few minutes --poor George's fate seemed so sad.  Who could have believed that a pure delusion would lead one ignorant man to a mean crime, profitless as he found it, and another to frenzy and death!  Who would have suspected such a tragic sequel to our careless chat on the Trinity!</P>
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022.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
022.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE OLD AND THE NEW.</HEAD>
022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>IN no white winding-sheet goes out the year, <LB>Stiff, straight, and cold, with mourners by its bier,<LB>As in the hard Atlantic clime,<LB>Where bare-branched trees make desolate the sky,<LB>And streams are stilled but winds are piping high,<LB>And vapors turn to stinging rime.<LB>Not typical of death our old year's end,<LB>But rather like the parting of a friend<LB>Who leaves a grateful sense behind;<LB>Or like a maiden loved and wedded late,<LB>Who goes to meet her joy with mien sedate,<LB>Yet calmly happy in her mind.<LB>The long dry summer sits upon the hills<LB>In memory yet; her russet color fills<LB>The distant scene with mellow tints;</HI>
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022.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Only the spring that swells to meet the cloud,<LB>Or acorn-dropping oak, or south wind loud,<LB>Another mood of nature hints.<LB>The red geranium gleams along the wall,<LB>The pea-vines leafy tresses thickly fall,<LB>While roses blush in open air;<LB>And oft in sheltered spots, 'mid friendly calms,<LB>The calla lily lifts its broad green palms<LB>And blossoms into saintly prayer.<LB>Soon all the tawny hills that thirst for rain<LB>Will don an emerald robe with golden train<LB>Of yellow poppies glowing like a flame;<LB>The summer from her dusty chrysalis<LB>Will waken to a life of winged bliss,<LB>And spring will be its happy name.</HI>
023.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-023</TITLE>
023.sgm:<TITLE>Sixty years in Southern California, 1853-1913, containing the reminiscences of Harris Newmark.  Edited by Maurice H. Newmark; Marco R. Newmark: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
023.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
023.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
023.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
023.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
023.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
023.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>26-12771</LCCN>
023.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
023.sgm:<COPYRIGHT> A 438330</COPYRIGHT>
023.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HARRIS NEWMARK AET. LXXIX</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>SIXTY YEARS</P>
023.sgm:<P>IN</P>
023.sgm:<P>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</P>
023.sgm:<P>1853-1913</P>
023.sgm:<P>CONTAINING THE REMINISCENCES OF</P>
023.sgm:<P>HARRIS NEWMARK</P>
023.sgm:<P>EDITED BY</P>
023.sgm:<P>MAURICE H. NEWMARK</P>
023.sgm:<P>MARCO R. NEWMARK</P>
023.sgm:<P>Every generation enjoys the use of a vast hoard bequeathed to it by antiquity, and transmits that hoard, augmented by fresh acquisitions, to future ages.  In these pursuits, therefore, the first speculators lie under great disadvantages, and, even when they fail, are entitled to praise.--MACAULAY.</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">WITH 150 ILLUSTRATIONS</HI>
023.sgm:<P>NEW YORK</P>
023.sgm:<P>THE KNICKERBOCKER PRESS</P>
023.sgm:<P>1916</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Copyright, 1916</P>
023.sgm:<P>BY</P>
023.sgm:<P>M. H. and M. R. NEWMARK</P>
023.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>TO<LB>THE MEMORY OF<LB>MY WIFE</P>
023.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<HEAD>In Memoriam</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>At the hour of high twelve on April the fourth, 1916, the sun shone into a room where lay the temporal abode, for eighty-one years and more, of the spirit of Harris Newmark.  On his face still lingered that look of peace which betokens a life worthily used and gently relinquished.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Many were the duties allotted him in his pilgrimage splendidly did he accomplish them!  Providence permitted him the completion of his final task--a labor of love--but denied him the privilege of seeing it given to the community of his adoption.</P>
023.sgm:<P>To him and to her, by whose side he sleeps, may it be both monument and epitaph.  <HI REND="italics">Thy will be done!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>M. H. N.</P>
023.sgm:<P>M. R. N.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>SEVERAL times during his latter years my friend, Charles Dwight Willard, urged me to write out my recollections of the five or six decades I had already passed in Los Angeles, expressing his regret that many pioneers had carried from this world so much that might have been of interest to both the Angele&ntilde;o of the present and the future historian of Southern California but as I had always led an active life of business or travel, and had neither fitted myself for any sort of literary undertaking nor attempted one, I gave scant attention to the proposal.  Mr. Willard's persistency, however, together with the prospect of co&ouml;peration offered me by my sons, finally overcame my reluctance and I determined to commence the work.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Accordingly in June, 1913, at my Santa Monica home, I began to devote a few hours each day to a more or less fragmentary enumeration of the incidents of my boyhood; of my voyage over the great wastes of sea and land between my ancestral and adopted homes; of the pueblo and its surroundings that I found on this Western shore; of its people and their customs; and, finally, of the men and women who, from then until now, have contributed to the greatness of the Southland, and of the things they have done or said to entitle their names to be recorded.  This task I finished in the early fall.  During its progress I entered more and more into the distant Past, until Memory conjured before me many long-forgotten faces and happenings.  In the end, I found that I had jotted down a mass of notes much greater than I had expected.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thereupon the Editors began their duties, which were to arrange the materials at hand, to supply names and dates <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Fortunately, just then they met Perry Worden, a postgraduate of Columbia and a Doctor of Philosophy of the University of Halle, Germany; a scholar and an author of attainments.  His aid, as investigator and adviser, has been indispensable to the completion of the work in its present form. Dr. Worden spent many months searching the newspapers, magazines and books--some of whose titles find special mention in the text--which deal with Southern California and its past; and he also interviewed many pioneers, to each of whom I owe acknowledgment for ready and friendly co&ouml;peration.  In short, no pains was spared to confirm and amplify all the facts and narratives.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whether to arrange the matter chronologically or not, was a problem impossible of solution to the complete satisfaction of the Editors; this, as well as other methods, having its advantages and disadvantages.  After mature consideration, the chronological plan was adopted, and the events of each year have been recorded more or less in the order of their happening. Whatever confusion, if any, may arise through this treatment of local history as a chronicle for ready reference will be easily overcome, it is believed, through the dating of the chapters and the provision of a comprehensive index; while the brief chapter-heading, generally a reference to some marked occurrence in that period, will further assist the reader to get his bearings.  Preference has been given to the first thirty years of my residence in Los Angeles, both on account of my affectionate remembrance of that time and because of the peculiarity of memory in advanced life which enables us to recall remote events when more recent ones are forgotten; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In collecting this mass of data, many discrepancies were met with, calling for the acceptance or rejection of much long current here as fact; and in all such cases I selected the version most closely corresponding with my own recollection, or that seemed to me, in the light of other facts, to be correct.  For this reason, no less than because in my narrative of hitherto unrecorded events and personalities it would be miraculous if errors have not found their way into the story, I shall be grateful if those who discover inaccuracies will report them to me.  In these sixty years, also, I have met many men and women worthy of recollection, and it is certain that there are some whose names I have not mentioned; if so, I wish to disclaim any intentional neglect.  Indeed, precisely as I have introduced the names of a number for whom I have had no personal liking, but whose services to the community I remember with respect, so there are doubtless others whose activities, past or present, it would afford me keen pleasure to note, but whom unhappily I have overlooked.</P>
023.sgm:<P>With this brief introduction, I give the manuscript to the printer, not with the ambitious hope of enriching literature in any respect, but not without confidence that I have provided some new material for the local historian--perhaps of the future--and that there may be a goodly number of people sufficiently interested to read and enjoy the story, yet indulgent enough to overlook the many faults in its narration.</P>
023.sgm:<P>H. N.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los ANGELES,</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December 31, 1915</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FOREWORD</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>THE Historian no longer writes History by warming over the pancakes of his predecessors. He must surely know what they have done, and how--and whereby they succeeded and wherein they failed.  But his own labor is to find the sidelights they did not have.  Macaulay saves him from doing again all the research that Macaulay had to do; but if he could find a twin Boswell or a second Pepys he would rather have either than a dozen new Macaulays. Since history is becoming really a Science, and is no more a closet exploration of half-digested arm-chair books, we are beginning to learn the overwhelming value of the contemporary witness.  Even a justice's court will not admit Hearsay Evidence; and Science has been shamed into adopting the same sane rule. Nowadays it demands the eye-witness. We look less for the "Authorities" now, and more for the Documents.  There are too many histories already, such as they are--self-satisfied and oracular, but not one conclusive.  Every history is put out of date, almost daily, by the discovery of some scrap of paper or some clay tablet from under the ashes of Babylon.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mere Humans no longer read History--except in school where they have to, or in study clubs where it is also Required. But a plain personal narrative is interesting now as it has been for five thousand years. The world's greatest book is of course compulsory; but what is the <HI REND="italics">interesting</HI>
023.sgm: part of it? Why, the stories---Adam and Eve; Abraham, Isaac and Jacob; Saul and David and Samson and Delilah; Solomon, Job, and Jesus the Christ! And if anyone thinks Moses worked-in a little too much of the Family Tree--he doesn't know what biblical arch&aelig;ology is doing. For it is thanks to these same "petty" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Greece had one Herodotus. America had <HI REND="italics">four</HI>
023.sgm:<P>For more than a quarter of a century it was one of my duties to study and review (for the <HI REND="italics">Nation</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I have read no other such book with so unflagging interest and content as these memoirs of Harris Newmark.  My personal acquaintance with Southern California for more than thirty years may color my interest in names and incidents but I am appraising this book (whose proofs I have been permitted to read thoroughly) from the standpoint of the student of history anywhere. Parkman and Fiske and Coues and Hodge and Thwaites would join me in the wish that every American community might have so competent a memorandum of its life and customs and growth, for its most formative half-century.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This is not a history. It is two other much more necessary things--for there is no such thing as a real History of Los Angeles, and cannot be for years. These are the frank, na&iuml;ve, conversational memoirs of a man who for more than sixty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>But it is more than the "confessions" of one ripe and noble experience.  It is, beyond any reasonable comparison, the most characteristic and accurate composite picture we have ever had of an old, brave, human, free, and distinctive life that has changed incredibly to the veneers of modern society. It is the very mirror of who and what the people were that laid the real foundations for a community which is now the wonder of the historian. The very details which are "not Big enough" for the casual reader (mentally over-tuned to newspaper headlines and moving pictures) are the vital and enduring merits of this unpretentious volume. No one else has ever set down so many of the very things that the final historian of Los Angeles will search for, a hundred years after all our oratories and "literary efforts" have been well forgotten.  It is a chronicle indispensable for every public library, every reference library, the shelf of every individual concerned with the story of California.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It is the <HI REND="italics">Pepys's Diary</HI>
023.sgm:<P>CHARLES F. LUMMIS.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>THE Editors wish to acknowledge the co&ouml;peration given, from time to time, by many whose names, already mentioned in the text, are not repeated here, and in particular to Drs. Leo Newmark and Charles F. Lummis, and Joseph P. and Edwin J. Loeb, for having read the proofs. They also wish to acknowledge Dr. Lummis's self-imposed task of preparing the generous foreword with which this volume has been favored.  Gratitude is also due to various friends who have so kindly permitted the use of photographs-not a few of which, never before published, are rare and difficult to obtain. Just as in the case, however, of those who deserve mention in these memoirs, but have been overlooked, so it is feared that there are some who have supplied information and yet have been forgotten.  To all such, as well as to several librarians and the following, thanks are hereby expressed: Frederick Baker, Horace Baker, Mrs. J. A. Barrows, Prospero Barrows, Mrs. R. C. Bartow, Miss Anna McConnell Beckley, Sigmund Beel, Samuel Behrendt, Arthur S. Bent, Mrs. Dora Bilderback, C. V. Boquist, Mrs. Mary Bowman, Allan Bromley, Professor Valentin Buehner, Dr. Rose Bullard, J. O. Burns, Malcolm Campbell, Gabe Carroll, J. W. Carson, Walter M. Castle, R. B. Chapman, J. H. Clancy, Herman Cohn, Miss Gertrude Darlow, Ernest Dawson and Dawson's Bookshop, Louise Deen, George E. Dimitry, Robert Dominguez, Durell Draper, Miss Marjorie Driscoll, S. D. Dunann, Gottlieb Eckbahl, Richard Egan, Professor Alfred Ewington, David P. Fleming, James G. Fowler, Miss Effie Josephine Fussell, A. P. Gibson, J. Sherman Glasscock, Gilbert H. Grosvenor, Edgar J. Hartung, Chauncey Hayes, George H. Higbee, Joseph Hopper, Adelbert Hornung, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>IN MEMORIAM<HSEP>v<LB>INTRODUCTION<HSEP>vii<LB>FOREWORD<HSEP>xi<LB>PREFACE<HSEP>xv<LB>CHAPTER<LB>I.--CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH, 1834-1853<HSEP>1<LB>II.--WESTWARD, Ho! 1853<HSEP>6<LB>III.--NEW YORK--NICARAGUA--THE GOLDEN GATE, 1853<HSEP>14<LB>IV.--FIRST ADVENTURES IN LOS ANGELES, 1853<HSEP>27<LB>V.--LAWYERS AND COURTS, 1853<HSEP>45<LB>VI.--MERCHANTS AND SHOPS, 1853<HSEP>60<LB>VII.--IN AND NEAR THE OLD PUEBLO, 1853<HSEP>80<LB>VIII.--ROUND ABOUT THE PLAZA, 1853-1854<HSEP>97<LB>IX.--FAMILIAR HOME-SCENES, 1854<HSEP>112<LB>X.--EARLY SOCIAL LIFE, 1854<HSEP>128<LB>XI.--THE RUSH FOR GOLD, 1855<HSEP>146<LB>XII.--THE GREAT HORSE RACE, 1855<HSEP>157<LB>XIII.--PRINCELY <HI REND="italics">RANCHO</HI>
023.sgm: DOMAINS, 1855<HSEP>166<LB>XIV.--ORCHARDS AND VINEYARDS, 1856<HSEP>189</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xviii</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB> XV.--SHERIFF BARTON AND THE <HI REND="italics">BANDIDOS</HI>
023.sgm:, 1857<HSEP>204<LB>XVI.--MARRIAGE--THE BUTTERFIELD STAGES, 1858<HSEP>220<LB>XVII.--ADMISSION TO CITIZENSHIP, 1859<HSEP>240<LB>XVIII.--FIRST EXPERIENCE WITH THE TELEGRAPH, 1860<HSEP>260<LB>XIX.--STEAM-WAGON--ODD CHARACTERS, 1860<HSEP>274<LB>XX.--THE RUMBLINGS OF WAR, 1861<HSEP>289<LB>XXI.--HANCOCK-LADY FRANKLIN--THE  DELUGE, 1861<HSEP>299<LB>XXII.--DROUGHTS-THE <HI REND="italics">ADA HANCOCK</HI>
023.sgm: DISASTER, 1862-1863<HSEP>310<LB>XXIII.--ASSASSINATION OF LINCOLN, 1864-1865<HSEP>328<LB>XXIV.--H. NEWMARK &amp; COMPANY--CARLISLE-KING DUEL, 1865-1866<HSEP>342<LB>XXV.--REMOVAL TO NEW YORK, AND RETURN, 1867-1868<HSEP>359<LB>XXVI.--THE CERRO GORDO MINES, 1869<HSEP>379<LB>XXVII.--COMING OF THE IRON HORSE, 1869<HSEP>393<LB>XXVIII.--THE LAST OF THE VIGILANTES, 1870<HSEP>408<LB>XXIX.--THE CHINESE MASSACRE, 1871<HSEP>421<LB>XXX.--THE WOOL CRAZE, 1872-1873<HSEP>437<LB>XXXI.--THE END OF. VASQUEZ, 1874<HSEP>452<LB>XXXII.--THE SANTA ANITA <HI REND="italics">RANCHO</HI>
023.sgm:, 1875<HSEP>472<LB>XXXIII.--LOS ANGELES &amp; INDEPENDENCE RAILROAD,1876<HSEP>485<LB>XXXIV.--THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC, 1876<HSEP>496</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xix</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>XXXV.--THE REVIVAL OF THE SOUTHLAND, 1877-1880<HSEP>509<LB>XXXVI.--CENTENARY OF THE CITY--ELECTRIC LIGHT, 1881-1884<HSEP>525<LB>XXXVII.--REPETTO AND THE LAWYERS, 1885-1887<HSEP>546<LB>XXXVIII.--THE GREAT BOOM, 1887<HSEP>564<LB>XXXIX.--PROPOSED STATE DIVISION, 1888-1891<HSEP>588<LB>XL.--THE FIRST <HI REND="italics">FIESTAS</HI>
023.sgm:, 1892-1897<HSEP>602<LB>XLI.--THE SOUTHWEST ARCH&AElig;OLOGICAL SOCIETY, 1898-1905<HSEP>616<LB>XLII.--THE SAN FRANCISCO EARTHQUAKE, 1906-1910<HSEP>633<LB>XLIII.--RETROSPECTION, 1910-1913<HSEP>641<LB>INDEX<HSEP>653</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxi</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P><LB><HSEP>FACING PAGE<LB>HARRIS NEWMARK.  IN HIS SEVENTY-NINTH YEAR<LB>Engraved from a photograph<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
023.sgm:<LB>FACSIMILE OF A PART OF THE MS<HSEP>2<LB>REPRODUCTION OF SWEDISH ADVERTISEMENT<HSEP>3<LB>PHILIPP NEUMARK<HSEP>10<LB>From a Daguerreotype.<LB>ESTHER NEUMARK<HSEP>10<LB>From a Daguerreotype<LB>J. P. NEWMARK<HSEP>10<LB>From a Daguerreotype<LB>MR. AND MRS. Joseph NEWMARK<HSEP>10<LB>LOS ANGELES IN THE EARLY FIFTIES<HSEP>11<LB>From a drawing of the Pacific Railway Expedition<LB>BELLA UNION AS IT APPEARED IN 1858<HSEP>26<LB>From a lithograph<LB>JOHN GOLLER'S BLACKSMITH SHOP<HSEP>27<LB>From a lithograph of 1858<LB>HENRY MELLUS<HSEP>50<LB>From a Daguerreotype<LB>FRANCIS MELLUS<HSEP>50<LB>From a Daguerreotype<LB>JOHN G. DOWNEY<HSEP>50<LB>CHARLES L. DUCOMMUN<HSEP>50</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxii</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P><HSEP>FACING<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>THE PLAZA CHURCH<HSEP>51<LB>From a photograph, probably taken in the middle eighties<LB>PIO PICO<HSEP>68<LB>From an oil portrait<LB>JUAN BANDINI<HSEP>68<LB>ABEL STEARNS<HSEP>68<LB>ISAAC WILLIAMS<HSEP>68<LB>STORE OF FELIPE RHEIM<HSEP>69<LB>JOHN JONES<HSEP>102<LB>CAPTAIN F. MORTON<HSEP>102<LB>CAPTAIN AND MRS. J. S. GARCIA<HSEP>102<LB>CAPTAIN SALISBURY HALEY<HSEP>102 <HI REND="italics">El Palacio</HI>
023.sgm:, HOME OF ABEL AND ARCADIA STEARNS<HSEP>103<LB>From a photograph of the seventies<LB>THE LUGO RANCH-HOUSE, IN THE NINETIES<HSEP>103<LB>J P. NEWMARK<HSEP>112<LB>From a vignette of the sixties<LB>JACOB RICH<HSEP>112<LB>O.W. CHILDS<HSEP>112<LB>JOHN O. WHEELER<HSEP>112<LB>BENJAMIN D. WILSON<HSEP>113<LB>GEORGE HANSEN<HSEP>113<LB>DR. OBED MACY<HSEP>113<LB>SAMUEL C. FOY<HSEP>113<LB>MYER J. AND HARRIS NEWMARK<HSEP>128<LB>From a Daguerreotype<LB>GEORGE CARSON<HSEP>128<LB>JOHN G. NICHOLS<HSEP>128</P>
023.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxiii</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>FACING<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>DAVID W. ALEXANDER<HSEP>129<LB>THOMAS E. ROWAN<HSEP>129<LB>MATTHEW KELLER<HSEP>129<LB>SAMUEL MEYER<HSEP>129<LB>LOUIS SAINSEVAIN<HSEP>154<LB>MANUEL DOMINGUEZ<HSEP>154 <HI REND="italics">EL Aliso</HI>
023.sgm:, THE SAINSEVAIN WINERY<HSEP>154<LB>From an old lithograph<LB>JACOB ELIAS<HSEP>155<LB>JOHN T. LANFRANCO<HSEP>155<LB>J. FRANK BURNS<HSEP>155<LB>HENRY D. BARROWS<HSEP>155<LB>MAURICE KREMER<HSEP>168<LB>SOLOMON LAZARD<HSEP>168<LB>MELLUS'S, OR BELL'S ROW<HSEP>168<LB>From a lithograph of 1858<LB>WILLIAM H. WORKMAN AND JOHN KING<HSEP>169<LB>PRUDENT BEAUDRY<HSEP>169<LB>JAMES S. MALLARD<HSEP>169<LB>JOHN BEHN<HSEP>169<LB>LOUIS ROBIDOUX<HSEP>174<LB>JULIUS G. WEYSE<HSEP>174<LB>JOHN BEHN<HSEP>174<LB>LOUIS BREER<HSEP>174<LB>WILLIAM J. BRODRICK<HSEP>175<LB>ISAAC R. DUNKELBERGER<HSEP>175<LB>FRANK J. CARPENTER<HSEP>175</P>
023.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxiv</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P><HSEP>FACING<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>AUGUSTUS ULYARD<HSEP>175<LB>LOS ANGELES IN THE LATE FIFTIES<HSEP>188<LB>From a contemporary sketch<LB>MYER J. NEWMARK<HSEP>189<LB>EDWARD J. C. KEWEN<HSEP>189<LB>DR. JOHN S. GRIFFIN<HSEP>189<LB>WILLIAM C. WARREN<HSEP>189<LB>HARRIS NEWMARK, WHEN (ABOUT) THIRTY-FOUR YEARS OLD<HSEP>224<LB>SARAH NEWMARK, WHEN (ABOUT) TWENTY-FOUR YEARS OF AGE<HSEP>224<LB>FACSIMILE OF HARRIS AND SARAH NEWMARK'S WEDDING INVITATION<HSEP>225<LB>SAN PEDRO STREET, NEAR SECOND, IN THE EARLY SEVENTIES<HSEP>254<LB>COMMERCIAL STREET, LOOKING EAST FROM MAIN, ABOUT 1870<HSEP>254<LB>VIEW OF PLAZA, SHOWING THE RESERVOIR<HSEP>255<LB>OLD LANFRANCO BLOCK<HSEP>255<LB>WINFIELD SCOTT HANCOCK<HSEP>290<LB>ALBERT SIDNEY JOHNSTON<HSEP>290<LB>LOS ANGELES COUNTY IN 1854<HSEP>291<LB>From a contemporary map<LB>THE MORRIS ADOBE, ONCE FR&eacute;MONT'S HEADQUARTERS<HSEP>291<LB>EUGENE MEYER<HSEP>310<LB>JACOB A. MOERENHOUT<HSEP>310<LB>FRANK LECOUVREUR<HSEP>310<LB>THOMAS D. MOTT<HSEP>310<LB>LEONARD J. ROSE<HSEP>311<LB>H. K. S. O'MELVENY<HSEP>311 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxv</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<HSEP>b>FACING<LB><HSEP>GE<LB>REMI NADEAU<HSEP>311<LB>JOHN M. GRIFFITH<HSEP>311<LB>KASPARE COHN<HSEP>342<LB>M. A. NEWMARK<HSEP>342<LB>H. NEWMARK &amp; CO.'s STORE, ARCADIA BLOCK, ABOUT 1875, INCLUDING (LEFT) JOHN JONES'S FORMER PREMISES<HSEP>343<LB>H. NEWMARK &amp; Co.'s BUILDING, AMESTOY BLOCK, ABOUT 1884<HSEP>343<LB>DR. TRUMAN H. ROSE<HSEP>370<LB>ANDREW GLASSELL<HSEP>370<LB>DR. VINCENT GELCICH<HSEP>370<LB>CHARLES E. MILES, IN UNIFORM OF 38'S<HSEP>370<LB>FACSIMILE OF STOCK CERTIFICATE, PIONEER OIL Co<HSEP> 371<LB>AMERICAN BAKERY, JAKE KUHRTS'S BUILDING, ABOUT 1880<HSEP>371<LB>LOEBAU MARKET PLACE, NEAR THE HOUSE IN WHICH HARRIS NEWMARK WAS BORN<HSEP>384<LB>STREET IN LOEBAU, SHOWING (RIGHT) REMNANT OF ANCIENT CITY WALL<HSEP>384<LB>ROBERT M. WIDNEY<HSEP>385<LB>DR. JOSEPH KURTZ<HSEP>385<LB>ISAAC N. VAN NUYS<HSEP>385<LB>ABRAHAM HAAS<HSEP>385<LB>PHINEAS BANNING, ABOUT 1869<HSEP>400<LB>HENRI PENELON, IN HIS STUDIO<HSEP>400 <HI REND="italics">Carreta</HI>
023.sgm:, EARLIEST MODE OF TRANSPORTATION<HSEP>401<LB>ALAMEDA STREET DEPOT AND TRAIN, LOS ANGELES &amp; SAN PEDRO RAILROAD<HSEP>401<LB>HENRY C. G. SCHAEFFER<HSEP>428</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxvi</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P><HSEP>FACING<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>LORENZO LECK<HSEP>428<LB>HENRY HAMMEL<HSEP>428<LB>LOUIS MESMER<HSEP>428<LB>JOHN SCHUMACHER<HSEP>428<LB>WILLIAM NORDHOLT<HSEP>428<LB>TURNVEREIN-GERMANIA BUILDING, SPRING STREET<HSEP>429<LB>VASQUEZ AND HIS CAPTORS<HSEP>452<LB>(<HI REND="italics">Top</HI>
023.sgm: )<HSEP>D. K. SMITH,<LB><HSEP><HSEP>WILLIAM R. ROWLAND,<LB><HSEP>WALTER E. RODGERS.<LB>(<HI REND="italics">Middle</HI>
023.sgm: )<HSEP>ALBERT JOHNSON,<LB><HSEP>GREEK GEORGE'S HOME,<LB><HSEP>G A. BEERS.<LB>(<HI REND="italics">Bottom</HI>
023.sgm: )<HSEP>EMIL HARRIS,<LB><HSEP>TIB&uacute;RCIO VASQUEZ,<LB><HSEP>J S. BRYANT.<LB>GREEK GEORGE<HSEP>453<LB>NICOL&aacute;S MARTINEZ<HSEP>453<LB>BENJAMIN S. EATON<HSEP>464<LB>HENRY T. HAZARD<HSEP>464<LB>FORT STREET HOME, HARRIS NEWMARK, SITE OF BLANCHARD HALL; Joseph NEWMARK AT THE DOOR<HSEP>464<LB>CALLE DE LOS NEGROS (NIGGER ALLEY), ABOUT 1870<HSEP>465<LB>SECOND STREET, LOOKING EAST FROM HILL STREET, EARLY SEVENTIES<HSEP>465<LB>ROUND HOUSE, WITH MAIN STREET ENTRANCE<HSEP>476<LB>SPRING STREET ENTRANCE TO GARDEN OF PARADISE<HSEP>476<LB>TEMPLE STREET, LOOKING WEST FROM BROADWAY, ABOUT 1870<HSEP>477<LB>PICO HOUSE, SOON AFTER COMPLETION<HSEP>477<LB>WILLIAM PRIDHAM<HSEP>500 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxvii</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<HSEP>FACING<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>BENJAMIN HAYES<HSEP>500<LB>ISAAC LANKERSHIM<HSEP>500<LB>RABBI A. W. EDELMAN<HSEP>500<LB>FORT STREET, FROM THE CHAPARRAL ON FORT HILL<HSEP>501<LB>ANTONIO FRANCO AND MARIANA CORONEL<HSEP>520<LB><HSEP>From an oil painting in the Coronel Collection<LB>FOURTH STREET, LOOKING WEST FROM MAIN<HSEP>520<LB>TIMMS LANDING<HSEP>521<LB><HSEP>From a print of the late fifties<LB>SANTA CATALINA, IN THE MIDDLE EIGHTIES<HSEP>521<LB>MAIN STREET, LOOKING NORTH FROM SIXTH, PROBABLY IN THE LATE SEVENTIES<HSEP>530<LB>HIGH SCHOOL, ON POUND CAKE HILL, ABOUT 1873<HSEP>530<LB>TEMPLE COURT HOUSE, AFTER ABANDONMENT BY THE COUNTY<HSEP>531<LB>FIRST STREET, LOOKING EAST FROM HILL<HSEP>531<LB>SPRING STREET, LOOKING NORTH FROM FIRST, ABOUT 1885<HSEP>566<LB>CABLE CAR, RUNNING NORTH ON BROADWAY (PREVIOUSLY FORT STREET), NEAR SECOND<HSEP>567<LB>EARLY ELECTRIC CAR, WITH CONDUCTOR JAMES GALLAGHER<LB><HSEP>(STILL IN SERVICE)<HSEP>567<LB>GEORGE W. BURTON<HSEP>594<LB>BEN C. TRUMAN<HSEP>594<LB>CHARLES F. LUMMIS<HSEP>594<LB>CHARLES DWIGHT WILLARD<HSEP>594<LB>GRAND AVENUE RESIDENCE, HARRIS NEWMARK, 1889<HSEP>595<LB>ISAIAS W. HELLMAN<HSEP>616<LB>HERMAN W. HELLMAN<HSEP>616</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxviii</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P><HSEP>FACING<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>CAMERON E. THOM<HSEP>616<LB>YGN&aacute;CIO SEP&uacute;LVEDA<HSEP>616<LB>FIRST SANTA F&eacute; LOCOMOTIVE TO ENTER LOS ANGELES<HSEP>617<LB>MAIN STREET, LOOKING NORTH, SHOWING FIRST FEDERAL BUILDING, MIDDLE NINETIES<HSEP>617<LB>HARRIS AND SARAH NEWMARK, AT TIME OF GOLDEN WEDDING<HSEP>636<LB>SUMMER HOME OF HARRIS NEWMARK, SANTA MONICA<HSEP>637<LB>HARRIS NEWMARK, AT THE DEDICATION OF M. A. NEWMARK &amp; CO.'S ESTABLISHMENT, 1912<HSEP>644<LB>J P. NEWMARK, ABOUT 1890<HSEP>644<LB>HARRIS NEWMARK BREAKING GROUND FOR THE JEWISH ORPHANS' HOME, NOVEMBER 28th, 1911<HSEP>645</P>
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023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxix</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>SIXTY YEARS</P>
023.sgm:<P>IN</P>
023.sgm:<P>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</P>
023.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>1</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I<LB>CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH<LB>1834-1853</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>I WAS born in Loebau, West Prussia, on the 5th of July, 1834, the son of Philipp and Esther, <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<P>My father was born in the ancient town of Neumark; and in his youth he was apprenticed to a dealer in boots and shoes in a Russian village through which Napoleon Bonaparte marched on his way to Moscow. The conqueror sent to the shop for a pair of fur boots, and I have often heard my father tell, with modest satisfaction, how, shortly before he visited the great fair at Nijni Novgorod, he was selected to deliver them; how more than one ambitious and inquisitive friend tried to purchase the privilege of approaching the great man, and what were his impressions of the warrior. When ushered into the august presence, he found Bonaparte in one of his characteristic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>When I was but three weeks old, my father's business affairs called him away from home, and compelled the sacrifice of a more or less continued absence of eight and one half years. During this period my mother's health was very poor.  Unfortunately, also, my father was too liberal and extravagantly inclined for his narrow circumstances; and not being equipped to meet the conditions of the district in which we lived and our economical necessities, we were continually, so to speak, in financial hot water. While he was absent, my father traveled in Sweden and Denmark, remitting regularly to his family as much as his means would permit, yet earning for them but a precarious living.  In 1842 he again joined his family in Loebau, making visits to Sweden and Denmark during the summer seasons from 1843 until the middle fifties and spending the long winters at home. Loebau was then, as now, of little commercial importance, and until 1849, when I was fifteen years of age and had my first introduction to the world, my life was very commonplace and marked by little worthy of special record, unless it was the commotion centering in the cobble-paved market-place, as a result of the Revolution of 1848.</P>
023.sgm:<P>With the winter of 1837 had come a change in my father's plans and enterprises.  Undergoing unusually severe weather in Scandinavia, he listened to the lure of the New World and embarked for New York, arriving there in the very hot summer of 1838. The contrast in climatic conditions proved most disastrous; for, although life in the new Republic seemed both pleasing and acceptable to one of his temperament and liberal views, illness finally compelled him to bid America adieu.</P>
023.sgm:<P>My father was engaged in the making of ink and blacking, neither of which commodities was, at that time, in such universal demand as it is now; and my brother, Joseph Philipp, later known as J. P. Newmark, having some time before left<illus entity="a023-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Facsimile of a Part of the MS.</P>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"Note.--The `F' in the above  announcement is the abbreviation for Fabian, one of Philipp Neumark's given names, at one time used in business, but seldom employed in social correspondence, and finally abandoned altogether."</P>
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023.sgm:<P>Any attempt to compare methods of travel in 1849, even in the countries I then traversed, with those now in vogue, would be somewhat ridiculous.  Country roads were generally poor--in fact, very bad; and vehicles were worse, so that the entire first day's run brought us only to Lessen, a small village but twelve miles from home! Here we spent the night, because of the lack of better accommodations, in blankets, on the floor of the wayside inn; and this experience was such a disappointment, failing to realize, as it did, my youthful anticipations, that I was desperately homesick and ready, at the first opportunity, to return to my sorrowing mother. The Fates, however, were against any such change in our plans; and the next morning we proceeded on our way, arriving that evening at the much larger town of Bromberg. Here, for the first time, the roads and other conditions were better, and my spirits revived.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Next day we left for Stettin, where we took passage for Ystad, a small seaport in southern Sweden.  Now our real troubles began; part of the trip was arduous, and the low state of our finances permitted us nothing better than exposed deck-quarters. This was particularly trying, since the sea was rough, the weather tempestuous, and I both seasick and longing for home; moreover, on arriving at Ystad, after a voyage of twelve hours or more, the Health Officer came on board our boat and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>From Ystad we proceeded to Copenhagen, where my father had intimate friends, especially in the Lachmann, Eichel and Ruben families, to whose splendid hospitality and unvarying kindness, displayed whenever I visited their neighborhood, I wish to testify.  We remained at Copenhagen a couple of months, and then proceeded to Gothenburg. It was not at this time my father's intention to burden me with serious responsibility; and, having in mind my age, he gave me but little of the work to do, while he never failed to afford me, when he could, an hour of recreation or pleasure. The trip as a whole, therefore, was rather an educational experiment.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1849, we returned to Loebau for the winter. From this time until 1851 we made two trips together, very similar to the one already described; and in 1851, when I was seventeen years of age, I commenced helping in real earnest.  By degrees, I was taught the process of manufacturing; and when at intervals a stock had been prepared, I made short trips to dispose of it.  The blacking was a paste, put up in small wooden boxes, to be applied with a brush, such a thing waterproof blacking then not being thought of, at least by us. During the summer of 1851, business carried me to Haparanda, about the most northerly port in Sweden; and from there I took passage, stopping at Lule&aring;, Pite&aring;, Ume&aring;, Hern&ouml;sand, Sundsvall, S&ouml;derhamn and Gefle, all small places along the route.  I transacted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On my trip north, I sailed over the Gulf of Bothnia which, the reader will recollect, separates Sweden from Finland, a province most unhappily under Russia's bigoted, despotic sway; and while at Haparanda, I was seized with a desire to visit Torne&aring;, in Finland. I was well aware that if I attempted to do so by the regular routes on land, it would be necessary to pass the Russian customhouse, where officers would be sure to examine my passport; and knowing, as the whole liberal world now more than ever knows, that a person of Jewish faith finds the merest sally beyond the Russian border beset with unreasonable obstacles, I decided to walk across the wide marsh in the northern part of the Gulf, and thus circumvent these exponents of intolerance. Besides, I was curious to learn whether, in such a benighted country, blacking and ink were used at all. I set out, therefore, through the great moist waste, making my way without much difficulty, and in due time arrived at Torne&aring;, when I proceeded immediately to the first store in the neighborhood; but there I was destined to experience a rude, unexpected setback. An old man, evidently the proprietor, met me and straightway asked, "Are you a Jew?" and seeing, or imagining that I saw, a delay (perhaps not altogether temporary!) in a Russian jail, I withdrew from the store without ceremony, and returned to the place whence I had come. Notwithstanding this adventure, I reached Stockholm in due season, the trip back consuming about three weeks; and during part Of that period I subsisted almost entirely on salmon, bear's meat, milk, and <HI REND="italics">kn&aring;ckebr&ouml;d</HI>
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023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II<LB>WESTWARD, HO!<LB>1853</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>IN April, 1853, when I had reached the age of nineteen, and was expected to take a still more important part in our business--an arrangement perfectly agreeable to me--my father and I resumed our selling and again left for Sweden. For the sake of economy, as well as to be closer to our field of operations, we had established two insignificant manufacturing plants, the one at Copenhagen, where we packed for two months, the other at Gothenburg, where we also prepared stock; and from these two points, we operated until the middle of May, 1853. Then a most important event occurred, completely changing the course of my life.  In the spring, a letter was received from my brother, J. P. Newmark, who, in 1848, had gone to the United States, and had later settled in Los Angeles. He had previously, about 1846, resided in England, as I have said; had then sailed to New York and tarried for a while in the East; when, attracted by the discovery of gold, he had proceeded to San Francisco, arriving there on May 6th, 185 1, being the first of our family to come to the Coast. In this letter my brother invited me to join him in California; and from the first I was inclined to make the change, though I realized that much depended on my father. He looked over my shoulder while I read the momentous message; and when I came to the suggestion that I should leave for America, I examined my father's face to anticipate, if possible, his decision. After some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>With deep emotion, my father bade me good-bye on the Gothenburg pier, nor was I less affected at the parting; indeed, I have never doubted that my father made a great sacrifice when he permitted me to leave him, since I must have been of much assistance and considerable comfort, especially during his otherwise solitary travels in foreign lands. I remember distinctly remaining on deck as long as there was the least vision of him; but when distance obliterated all view of the shore, I went below to regain my composure. I soon installed my belongings in the stateroom, or cabin as it was then called, and began to accustom myself to my new and strange environment.</P>
023.sgm:<P>There was but one other passenger--a young man--and he was to have a curious part in my immediate future. As he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>We had now entered the open sea, which was very rough, and I retired, remaining in my bunk for two days, or until we approached Hull, suffering from the most terrible seasickness I have ever experienced; and not until we sailed into port did I recover my sea legs at all.  Having dressed, I again met my traveling companion; and we became still more intimate. On Sunday morning we reached Hull, then boasting of no such harbor facilities as the great Humber docks now in course of construction; and having transferred our baggage to the train as best we could, we proceeded almost immediately on our way to Liverpool.  While now the fast English express crosses the country in about three hours, the trip then consumed the better part of the night and, being made in the darkness, afforded but little opportunity for observation.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hardly had we arrived in Liverpool, when I was surprised <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>At the period whereof I write, there was a semimonthly steamer service between Liverpool and New York; and as bad luck would have it, the boat in which I was to travel paddled away while I was in the midst of the predicament just described, leaving me with the unpleasant outlook of having to delay my departure for America two full weeks.  The one thing that consoled me was that, not having been fastidious as to my berth, I had not engaged passage in advance, and so was not further embarrassed by the forfeiture of hard-earned and much-needed money.  As it was, having stopped at a moderately priced hotel for the night, I set out the next morning to investigate the situation.  Speaking no English, I was fortunate, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:few days later, in meeting a Swedish emigration agent who informed me that the <HI REND="italics">Star King</HI>
023.sgm:, a three-masted sailing vessel in command of Captain Burland--both ship and captain hailing from Baltimore--was booked to leave the following morning; and finding the office of the company, I engaged one of the six first-class berths in the saloon. There was no second-cabin, or I might have traveled in that class and of steerage passengers the <HI REND="italics">Star King</HI>
023.sgm:<P>We left Liverpool-which, unlike Hull, I have since seen on one of my several visits to Europe--on the evening of the 10th of July. On my way to the cabin, I passed the dining table already arranged for supper; and as I had eaten very sparingly since my seasickness on the way to Hull, I was fully prepared for a square meal. The absence not only of smoke, but of any smell as from an engine, was also favorable to my appetite; and when the proper time arrived, I did full justice to what was set before me. Steamers then were infrequent on the Atlantic, but there were many sailing vessels; and these we often passed, so close, in fact, as to enable the respective captains to converse with each other. In the beginning, we had an ample supply of fresh meat, eggs and butter, as well as some poultry, and the first week's travel was like a delightful pleasure excursion. After that, however, the meat commenced to deteriorate, the eggs turned stale, and the butter became rancid; and as the days passed, everything grew worse, excepting a good supply of cheese which possessed, as usual, the faculty of improving, rather than spoiling, as it aged. Mountain water might justly have shown indignation if the contents of the barrels then on board had claimed relationship; <illus entity="a023-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Philipp Neumark</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Esther Neumark</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">J. P. Newmark</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Los Angeles in the Early Fifties</HI>
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023.sgm:<P>Following this escape, matters progressed without special incident until we were off the coast of Newfoundland, when we had every reason to expect an early arrival in New York. Late one afternoon, while the vessel was proceeding with all sail set, a furious squall struck her, squarely amidships; and in almost as short a time as it takes to relate the catastrophe, our three masts were snapped asunder, failing over the side of the boat and all but capsizing her.  The utmost excitement prevailed; and from the Captain down to the ordinary seaman, all hands were terror-stricken. The Captain believed, in fact, that there was no hope of saving his ship; and forgetful of all need of self-control and discipline, he loudly called to us, "Every man for himself!" at the same time actually tearing at and plucking his bushy hair--a performance that in no wise relieved the crisis.  In less than half an hour, the fury of the elements had subsided, and we found ourselves becalmed; and the crew, assisted by the passengers, were enabled, by cutting away chains, ropes and torn sails, to steady the ship and keep her afloat.  After this was accomplished, the Captain engaged a number of competent steerage passengers to help put up emergency masts, and to prepare new sails, for which we carried material. For twelve weary days we drifted with the current, apparently not advancing a mile; and during all this time the Atlantic, but recently so stormy and raging, was as smooth as a mill-pond, and the wreckage kept close to our ship.  It was about the middle of August when this disaster occurred, and not until we had been busy many days rigging <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On August 28th, 1853, exactly forty-nine days after our departure from Liverpool, we arrived at New York, reaching Sandy Hook in a fog so dense that it was impossible to see any distance ahead; and only when the fog lifted, revealing the great harbor and showing how miraculously we had escaped collision with the numerous craft all about us, was our joy and relief at reaching port complete.  I cannot recollect whether we took a pilot aboard or not; but I do know that the peculiar circumstances under which we arrived having prevented a health officer from immediately visiting us, we were obliged to cast anchor and await his inspection the next morning. During the evening, the Captain bought fresh meat, vegetables, butter and eggs, offered for sale by venders in boats coming alongside; and with sharpened appetites we made short work of a fine supper, notwithstanding that various features of shore life, or some passing craft, every minute or two challenged our attention, and quite as amply we did justice, on the following morning, to our last breakfast aboard ship. As I obtained my first glimpse of New York, I thought of the hardships of my father there, a few years before, and of his compulsory return to Europe; and I wondered what might have been my position among Americans had he succeeded in New York. At last, on August 29th, 1853, under a blue and inspiriting sky and with both curiosity and hope tuned to the highest pitch, I first set foot on American soil, in the country where I was to live and labor the remainder of my life, whose flag and institutions I have more and more learned to honor and love.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Before leaving Europe, I had been provided with the New York addresses of friends from Loebau, and my first duty was to look them up. One of these, named Lindauer, kept a boarding-house on Bayard Street near the Five Points, now, I believe, in the neighborhood of Chinatown; and as I had no desire to frequent high-priced hotels, I made my temporary abode with him. I also located the house of Rich Brothers, associated with the San Francisco concern of the same name and through whom <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III<LB>NEW YORK--NICARAGUA--THE GOLDEN GATE<LB>1853</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>ON September 20th, during some excitement due to the fear lest passengers from New Orleans afflicted with yellow-fever were being smuggled into the city despite the vigilance of the health authorities, I left New York for Nicaragua, then popularly spoken of as the Isthmus, sailing on the steamer Illinois as one of some eleven or twelve hundred travelers recently arrived from Europe who were hurrying to California on that ship and the <HI REND="italics">Star of the West</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>From San Juan del Norte--in normal times, a hamlet of four or five hundred people clustered near one narrow, dirty street--we proceeded up the San Juan River, nine hundred passengers huddled together on three flat-bottomed boats, until, after three or four days, our progress was interfered with, at Castillo Rapids, by a fall in the stream. There we had to disembark and climb the rough grade, while our baggage was carried up on a tramway; after which we continued our journey on larger boats, though still miserably packed together, until we had almost reached the mouth of Lake Nicaragua, when the water became so shallow that we had to trust ourselves to the uncertain <HI REND="italics">bongos</HI>
023.sgm:, or easily-overturned native canoes, or get out again and walk. It would be impossible to describe the hardships experienced on these crowded little steamboats, which were by no means one quarter as large as the <HI REND="italics">Hermosa</HI>
023.sgm:, at present plying between Los Angeles harbor and Catalina. The only drinking water that we could get came from the river, and it was then that my brandy served its purpose: with the addition of the liquor, I made the drink both palatable and safe. Men, women and children, we were parched and packed like so many herring, and at night there was not only practically no space between passengers sleeping on deck, but the extremities of one were sure to interfere with the body of another. The heat was indeed intense; the mosquitoes seemed omnivorous to add to which, the native officers in charge of our expedition pestered us with their mercenary proceedings.  For a small cup of black coffee, a charge of fifty cents was made, which leaves the impression that food was scarce, else no one would have consented to pay so much for so little. This part of the trip was replete with misery to many, but fortunately for me, although the transportation company provided absolutely no conveniences, the hardships could not interfere with my enjoyment of the delightful and even sublime scenery surrounding us on all sides in this tropical country. As the river had no great width, we were at close range to the changing panorama on both banks; while the neighboring land was covered with gorgeous jungles and vegetation.  Here I first saw orange, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A walk of a mile or two along the river bank, affording beneficial exercise, brought us to Port San Carlos, from which point a larger boat crossed the lake to Virgin Bay, where we took mules to convey us to San Juan del Sur. This journey was as full of hardship as it was of congeniality, and proved as interesting as it was amusing. Imagine, if you please, nine hundred men, women and children from northern climes, long accustomed to the ways of civilization, suddenly precipitated, under an intensely hot tropical sun, into a small, Central American landing, consisting of a few huts and some cheap, improvised tents (used for saloons and restaurants), every one in search of a mule or a horse, the only modes of transportation. The confusion necessarily following the preparation for this part of the trip can hardly be imagined: the steamship company furnished the army of animals, and the nervous tourists furnished the jumble! Each one of the nine hundred travelers feared that there would not be enough animals for all, and the anxiety to secure a beast caused a stampede.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the scramble, I managed to get hold of a fine mule, and presently we were all mounted and ready to start. This conglomeration of humanity presented, indeed, a ludicrous sight; and I really believe that I must have been the most grotesque figure of them all. I have mentioned the demijohn of brandy, which a friend advised me to buy; but I have not mentioned another friend who told me that I should be in danger of sun-stroke in this climate, and who induced me to carry an umbrella to protect myself from the fierce rays of the enervating sun. Picture me, then, none too short and very lank, astride a mule, a big demijohn in one hand, and a spreading, green umbrella in the other, riding through this southern village, and practically incapable of contributing anything to the course of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>All in all, we traversed about twelve miles on mule or horseback, and finally arrived, about four o'clock in the afternoon of the day we had started, at San Juan del Sur, thus putting behind us the most disagreeable part of this uncomfortable trip. Here it may be interesting to add that on our way across the Isthmus, we met a crowd of disappointed travelers returning from the Golden Gate, on their way toward New York.  They were a discouraged lot and loudly declared that California was nothing short of a <HI REND="italics">fiasco</HI>
023.sgm:; but, fortunately, there prevailed that weakness of human nature which impels every man to earn his own experience, else, following the advice of these discomfited people, some of us might have retraced our steps and thus completely altered our destinies.  Not until the publication, years later, of the <HI REND="italics">Personal Memoirs of General W. T. Sherman</HI>
023.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>There was no appreciable variation in temperature while I was in Nicaragua, and at San Juan del Sur (whose older portion, much like San Juan del Norte, was a village of the Spanish-American type with one main street, up and down which, killing time, I wandered) the heat was just as oppressive as it had been before. People often bunked in the open, a hotel-keeper named Green renting hammocks, at one dollar each, when all his beds had been taken.  One of these hammocks I engaged; but being unaccustomed to such an aerial lodging, I was most unceremoniously spilled out, during a deep sleep in the night, falling only a few feet, but seeming, to my stirred-up imagination, to be sliding down through limitless space. Here I may mention that this Nicaragua Route was the boom creation of a competitive service generally understood to have been initiated by those who intended, at the first opportunity, to sell out; and that since everybody expected to pack and move on at short notice, San Juan del Sur, suddenly enlarged by the coming and going of adventurers, was for the moment in part a community of tents, presenting a most unstable appearance. A picturesque little creek flowed by the town and into the Pacific; and there a fellow-traveler, L. Harris, and I decided to refresh ourselves. This was no sooner agreed upon than done; but a passer-by having excitedly informed us that the creek was infested with alligators, we were not many seconds in following his advice to scramble out, thereby escaping perhaps a fate similar to that which overtook, only a few years later, a near relative of Mrs. Henry Hancock.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At sundown, on the day after we arrived at San Juan del Sur, the Pacific terminal, we were carried by natives through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:the surf to small boats, and so transferred to the steamer <HI REND="italics">Cortez</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the lapse of many years, this first visit to San Francisco has never been forgotten.  The beauty of the harbor, the surrounding elevations, the magnificence of the day, and the joy of being at my journey's end, left an impression of delight which is still fresh and agreeable in my memory. All San Francisco, so to speak, was drawn to the wharf, and enthusiasm ran wild. Jacob Rich, partner of my brother, was there to meet me and, without ceremony, escorted me to his home; and under his hospitable roof I remained until the morning when I was to depart for the still sunnier South.</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Francisco, in 1853, was much like a frontier town, devoid of either style or other evidences of permanent progress; yet it was wide-awake and lively in the extreme. What little had been built, bad and good, after the first rush of gold-seekers, had been destroyed in the five or six fires, that swept the city just before I came, so that the best buildings I saw were of hasty and, for the most part, of frame construction. Tents also, of all sizes, shapes and colors, abounded.  I was amazed, I remember, at the lack of civilization as I understood it, at the comparative absence of women, and at the spectacle of people riding around the streets on horseback like mad. All sorts of excitement seemed to fill the air: everywhere there was a noticeable lack of repose; and nothing perhaps better fits the scene I would describe than some lines from a popular song of that time entitled, San <HI REND="italics">Francisco in 1853</HI>
023.sgm::<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>City full of people,<LB>In a business flurry;<LB>Everybody's motto,<LB>Hurry! hurry! hurry!<LB><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Every nook and corner<LB>Full to overflowing:<LB>Like a locomotive,<LB>Everybody going!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>One thing in particular struck me, and that was the unsettled state of the surface on which the new town was being built.  I recall for example, the great quantity of sand that was continually being blown into the streets from sand-dunes uninterruptedly forming in the endless vacant lots, and how people, after a hard wind at night, would find small sand-heaps in' front of their stores and residences; so that, in the absence of any municipal effort to keep the thoroughfares in order, the owners were repeatedly engaged in sweeping away the accumulation of sand, lest they might be overwhelmed.  The streets were ungraded, although some were covered with planks for pavement, and presented altogether such an aspect of uncertainty that one might well believe General Sherman's testimony that, in winter time, he had seen mules fall, unable to rise, and had even witnessed one drown in a pool of mud! Sidewalks, properly speaking, there were none.  Planks and boxes--some filled with produce not yet unpacked--were strung along in irregular lines, requiring the poise of an acrobat to walk upon, especially at night. As I waded through the sand-heaps or fell over the obstructions designed as pavements, my thoughts reverted, very naturally, to my brother who had preceded me to San Francisco two years before; but it was not until some years later that I learned that my distinguished fellow-countryman, Heinrich Schliemann, destined to wander farther to Greece and Asia Minor, and there to search for ancient Troy, had not only knocked about the sand-lots in the same manner in which I was doing, but, stirred by the discovery of gold and the admission of California to the Union, had even taken on American citizenship.  Schliemann visited California in 1850 and became naturalized; nor did he ever, I believe, repudiate the act which makes the greatest explorer of ancient Greece a burgher of the United States!</P>
023.sgm:<P>During my short stay in San Francisco, before leaving for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Situated at the Plaza--where, but three years before, on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>As there was then no stage line between San Francisco and the South, I was compelled to continue my journey by sea; and on the morning of October 18th, I boarded the steamer <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
023.sgm: --whose Captain was Salisbury Haley, formerly a surveyor from Santa B&aacute;rbara--bound for Los Angeles, and advertised to stop at Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Santa B&aacute;rbara and one or two other landings formerly of importance but now more or less forgotten. There were no wharves at any of those places; passengers and freight were taken ashore in small boats; and when they approached shallow water, everything was carried to dry land by the sailors.  This performance gave rise, at times, to most annoying situations; boats would capsize and empty their passengers into the water, creating a merriment enjoyed more by those who were secure than by the victims themselves. On October 21st we arrived a mile or so off San Pedro, and were disembarked in the manner above described, having luckily suffered no such mishap as that which befell passengers on the steamship <HI REND="italics">Winfield Scott</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Almost from the time of the first visit of a steamer to San Pedro, the <HI REND="italics">Gold Hunter</HI>
023.sgm: (a side-wheeler which made the voyage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:way, was even then such a man of affairs that he had bought, but a few months before, some fifteen wagons and nearly five times as many mules, and had paid almost thirty thousand dollars for them.  I at once delivered the letter in which Rich had stated that I had but a smattering of English and that it would be a favor to him if Banning would help me safely on my way to Los Angeles; and Banning, having digested the contents of the communication, looked me over from head to foot, shook hands and, in a stentorian voice--loud enough, I thought, to be heard beyond the hills--good-naturedly called out, " <HI REND="italics">Wie geht's</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Not a minute was lost between the arrival of passengers and the departure of coaches for Los Angeles in the early fifties.  The competition referred to developed a racing tendency that was the talk of the pueblo.  The company that made the trip in the shortest time usually obtained, through lively betting, the best of advertising and the largest patronage; so that, from the moment of leaving San Pedro until the final arrival in Los Angeles two and a half hours later, we tore along at breakneck speed, over roads slowly traveled, but a few years before,by Stockton's cannon.  These roads never having been cared for, and still less inspected, were abominably bad; and I have often wondered that during such contests there were not more accidents.  The stages were of the common Western variety, and four to six broncos were always a feature of the equipment. No particular attention had been given to the harness, and everything was more or less primitive. The stage was provided with four rows of seats and each row, as a rule, was occupied by four passengers, the front row including the oft-bibulous driver; and the fare was five dollars.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Soon after leaving San Pedro, we passed thousands of ground squirrels, and never having seen anything of the kind before, I took them for ordinary rats. This was not an attractive discovery; and when later we drove by a number of ranch houses and I saw beef cut into strings and hung up over fences to dry, it looked as though I had landed on another planet.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:I soon learned that dried beef or, as the natives here called it, <HI REND="italics">carne seca</HI>
023.sgm: (more generally known, perhaps, at least among frontiersmen, as "jerked" beef or <HI REND="italics">jerky</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Having reached the Half-Way House, we changed horses; then we continued and approached Los Angeles by San Pedro Street, which was a narrow lane, possibly not more than ten feet wide, with growing vineyards bordered by willow trees on each side of the road. It was on a Sunday and in the midst of the grape season that I first beheld the City of the Angels; and to these facts in particular I owe another odd and unfavorable first impression of the neighborhood.  Much of the work connected with the grape industry was done by Indians and native Mexicans, or Californians, as they were called, and every Saturday evening they received their pay.  During Saturday night and all day Sunday, they drank themselves into hilarity and intoxication, and this dissipation lasted until Sunday night.  Then they slept off their sprees and were ready to work Monday morning. During each period of excitement, from one to three or four of these revelers were murdered. Never having seen Indians before, I supposed them to represent the citizenship of Los Angeles-an amusing error for which I might be pardoned when one reflects that nine out of forty-four of the founders of Los Angeles were Indians, and that, according to an official census made the year before, Los Angeles County in 1852 had about thirty-seven hundred domesticated Indians among a population of a little over four thousand whites; and this mistake as to the typical burgher, together with my previous experiences, added to my amazement.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At last, with shouts and yells from the competing drivers, almost as deafening as the horn-blowing of a somewhat later date, and hailed apparently by every inhabitant and dog along the route, we arrived at the only real hotel in town, the Bella Union, where stages stopped and every city function <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>My friend, Sam Meyer (now deceased, but for fifty years or more treasurer of Forty-two, the oldest Masonic lodge in Los Angeles), who had come here a few months in advance of me, awaited the arrival of the stage and at once recognized me by my costume, which was anything but in harmony with Southern California fashions of that time. My brother, J. P. Newmark, not having seen me for several years, thought that our meeting ought to be private, ad so requested Sam to show me to his store.  I was immediately taken to my brother's ,place of business where he received me with great affection; and there and then we renewed that sympathetic association which continued many years, until his death in 1895.</P>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Bella Union as it Appeared in 1858</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">John Goller's Blacksmith Shop</HI>
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023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV<LB>FIRST ADVENTURES IN LOS ANGELES<LB>1853</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>ONCE fairly well settled here, I began to clerk for my brother, who in 1852 had.bought out a merchant named Howard.  For this service I received my lodging, the cost of my board, and thirty dollars each month. The charges for board at the Bella Union--then enjoying a certain prestige, through having been the official residence of Pio Pico when Stockton took the city--were too heavy, and arrangements were made with a Frenchman named John La Rue, who had a restaurant on the east side of Los Angeles Street, about two hundred feet south of Bell's Row. I paid him nine dollars a week for three more or less hearty meals a day, not including eggs, unless I provided them; in this case he agreed to prepare them for me. Eggs were by no means scarce; but steaks and mutton and pork chops were the popular choice, and potatoes and vegetables a customary accompaniment.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This La Rue, or Leroux, as he was sometimes called, was an interesting personality with an interesting history.  Born in France, he sailed for the United States about the time of the discovery of gold in California, and made his way to San Francisco and the mines, where luck encouraged him to venture farther and migrate to Mazatl&aacute;n, Mexico. While prospecting there, however, he was twice set upon and robbed; and barely escaping with his life, he once more turned northward, this time stopping at San Pedro and Los Angeles. Here, meeting Miss <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:Bridget Johnson, a native of Ireland, who had just come from New York by way of San Diego, La Rue married her, notwithstanding their inability to speak each other's language, and then opened a restaurant, which he continued to conduct until 1858 when he died, as the result of exposure at a fire on Main Street. Although La Rue was in no sense an eminent citizen, it is certain that he was esteemed and mourned. Prior to his death, he had bought thirty or thirty-five acres of land, on which he planted a vineyard and an orange-orchard; and these his wife inherited.  In 1862, Madame La Rue married John Wilson, also a native of Ireland, who had come to Los Angeles during the year that the <HI REND="italics">restaurateur</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I distinctly recall La Rue's restaurant, and quite as clearly do I remember one or two humorous experiences there. Nothing in Los Angeles, perhaps, has ever been cruder than this popular eating-place. The room, which faced the street, had a mud-floor and led to the kitchen through a narrow opening. Half a dozen cheap wooden tables, each provided with two chairs, stood against the walls. The tablecloths were generally dirty, and the knives and forks, as well as the furniture, were of the homeliest kind. The food made up in portions what it lacked in quality, and the diner rarely had occasion to leave the place hungry.  What went most against my grain was the slovenliness of the proprietor himself. Flies were very thick in the summer months; and one day I found a big fellow splurging in my bowl of soup. This did not, however, feaze John La Rue. Seeing the struggling insect, he calmly dipped his coffee-colored fingers into the hot liquid and, quite as serenely, drew out the fly; and although one could not then be as fastidious as nowadays, I nevertheless found it impossible to eat the soup.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On another occasion, however, mine host's equanimity was disturbed. I had given him two eggs one morning, to prepare for me, when Councilman A. Jacobi, a merchant and also a customer of La Rue's, came in for breakfast, bringing one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>Having arranged for my meals, my brother's next provision was for a sleeping-place. A small, unventilated room adjoining the store was selected; and there I rested on an ordinary cot furnished with a mattress, a pillow, and a pair of <HI REND="italics">frazadas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1853, free-and-easy customs were in vogue in Los Angeles, permitting people in the ordinary affairs of life to do practically as they pleased.  There were few if any restrictions; and if circumscribing City ordinances existed--except, perhaps, those of 1850 which, while licensing gaming places, forbade the playing of cards on the street--I do not remember what they were.  As was the case in San Francisco, neither saloons nor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>Through the most popular of these districts, a newly-found friend escorted me on the evening of my arrival in Los Angeles. The quarter was known by the euphonious title of Calle de los Negros--Nigger Alley; and this alley was a thoroughfare not over forty feet wide which led from Aliso Street to the Plaza, an extent of just one unbroken block. At this period, there was a long adobe facing Los Angeles Street, having a covered platform or kind of veranda, about four feet from the ground, running its entire length. The building commenced at what was later Sanchez Street, and reached, in an easterly direction, to within forty feet, more or less, of the east side of Nigger Alley, then continuing north to the Plaza.  This formed the westerly boundary, while a line of adobes on the other side of the street formed the easterly line. The structure first described, and which was demolished many years ago, later became the scene of the beginning of an awful massacre to which I shall refer in due season.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Each side of the alley was occupied by saloons and gambling houses.  Men and women alike were to be found there, and both sexes looked after the gaming tables, dig monte and faro, and managing other contrivances that parted the good-natured and easy-going people from their money.  Those in charge of the banks were always provided with pistols, and were ready, if an emergency arose, to settle disputes on the spot; and only rarely did a case come up for adjustment before the properly constituted authorities, such as that in 1848, which remained a subject of discussion for some time, when counterfeiters, charged with playing at monte with false money, were tried before a special court made up of Abel Stearns and Stephen C. Foster.  Time was considered a very important <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Human life at this period was about the cheapest thing in. Los Angeles, and killings were frequent.  Nigger Alley was as tough a neighborhood, in fact, as could be found anywhere, and a large proportion of the twenty or thirty murders a month was committed there. About as plentiful a thing, also, as there was in the pueblo was liquor.  This was served generously in these resorts, not only with respect to quantity, but as well regarding variety. In addition to the prodigality of feasting, there was no lack of music of the native sort--the harp and the guitar predominating.  These scenes were picturesque and highly interesting.  Nigger Alley, for a while the headquarters for gamblers, enjoyed through that circumstance a certain questionable status; but in the course of years it came to be more and more occupied by the Chinese, and given over to their opium-dens, shops and laundries.  There, also, their peculiar religious rites were celebrated in just as peculiar a joss house, the hideously-painted gods not in the least becoming a deterrent factor.  Juan Apablasa was among those who owned considerable property in Chinatown, and a street in that quarter perpetuates his name.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Having crossed the Plaza, we entered Sonora Town, where my friend told me that every evening there was much indulgence in drinking, smoking and gambling, and quite as much participation in dancing. Some of this life, which continued in full swing until the late seventies, I witnessed on my first evening in Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Returning to Main Street, formerly Calle Principal, we entered the Montgomery, one of the well-known gambling houses--a one-story adobe about a hundred feet in width, in front of which was a shaded veranda--situated nearly opposite the Stearns home, and rather aristocratic, not only in its furnishings but also in its management. This resort was managed by the fearless William C., or Billy Getman, afterward Sheriff of Los Angeles County, whom I saw killed while trying to arrest a lunatic.  The Montgomery was conducted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>A fraternity of gamblers almost indigenous to California, and which has been celebrated and even, to an extent, glorified by such writers as Mark Twain, Bret Harte and others, was everywhere then in evidence in Los Angeles; and while it is true that their vocation was illegitimate, many of them represented nevertheless a splendid type of man: generous, honest in methods, courageous in operations and respected by everybody. It would be impossible, perhaps, to describe this class as I knew them and at the same time to satisfy the modern ideal; but pioneers will confirm my tribute to these early gamesters (among whom they may recall Brand Phillips) and their redeeming characteristics.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As I have said, my brother, J. P. Newmark, was in partnership with Jacob Rich, the gentleman who met me when I reached San Francisco; their business being dry-goods and clothing. They were established in J. N. Padilla's adobe on the southeast corner of Main and Requena streets, a site so far "out of .town" that success was possible only because of their catering to a wholesale clientele rather than to the retail trade; and almost opposite them, ex-Mayor John G. Nichols conducted a small grocery in a store that he built on the Main Street side of the property now occupied by Temple Block. There was an old adobe wall running north and south along the east line of the lot, out of which Nichols cut about fifteen feet, using this property to a depth of some thirty feet, thus forming a rectangular space which he enclosed.  Here he carried on a modest trade which, even in addition to his other cares, scarcely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>A still earlier survey than that of Hancock was made by Lieutenant Edward O. C. Ord--later distinguished in the Union Army where, singularly enough, he was fighting with Rosecrans, in time a resident of Los Angeles--who, in an effort to bring order out of the pueblo chaos, left still greater confusion. To clear up the difficulty of adobes isolated or stranded in the middle of the streets, the Common Council in 1854 permitted owners to claim a right of way to the thoroughfares nearest their houses. This brings to mind the fact that the <HI REND="italics">vara</HI>
023.sgm:, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:Spanish unit equal to about thirty-three inches, was a standard in real estate measurements even after the advent of Ord, Hancock and Hansen, who were followed by such surveyors as P. J. Virgen (recalled by Virgen Street) and his partner Hardy; and also that the <HI REND="italics">reata</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Graded streets and sidewalks were unknown; hence, after heavy winter rains mud was from six inches to two feet deep, while during the summer dust piled up to about the same extent. Few City ordinances were obeyed; for notwithstanding that a regulation of the City Council called on every citizen to sweep in front of his house to a certain point on Saturday evenings, not the slightest attention was paid to it. Into the roadway was thrown all the rubbish: if a man bought a new suit of clothes, a pair of boots, a hat or a shirt, to replace a corresponding part of his apparel that had outlived its usefulness, he would think nothing, on attiring himself in the new purchase, of tossing the discarded article into the street where it would remain until some passing Indian, or other vagabond, took possession of it.  So wretched indeed were the conditions, that I have seen dead animals left on the highways for days at a time, and can recall one instance of a horse dying on Alameda Street and lying there until a party of Indians cut up the carcass for food. What made these street conditions more trying was the fact that on hot days roads and sidewalks were devoid of shade, except for that furnished by a few scattered trees or an occasional projecting veranda; while at night (if I except the illumination from the few lanterns suspended in front of barrooms and stores) thoroughfares were altogether unlighted.  In those nights of dark streets and still darker tragedies, people rarely went out unless equipped with candle-burning lanterns, at least until camphine was imported by my brother, after which this was brought into general use.  Stores were lighted in the same manner: first with candles, then with camphine and finally with coal-oil, during which period of advancement lamps replaced the cruder contrivances.</P>
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023.sgm:<P>Southern California from the first took an active part in State affairs.  Edward Hunter and Charles E. Carr were the Assemblymen from this district in 1853; and the following year they were succeeded by Francis Mellus and Dr. Wilson W. Jones.  Carr was a lawyer who had come in 1852; Hunter afterward succeeded Pablo de la Guerra as Marshal. Jones was the doctor who just about the time I came, while returning from a professional call at the Lugos at about sunset, nearly rode over the bleeding and still warm body of a cattle-buyer named Porter, on Alameda Street. The latter had been out to the Dominguez <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Under the new order of things, too, following the adoption in 1849 of a State constitution, County organization in Los Angeles was effected; and by the time I declared myself for American citizenship, several elections had been held.  Benjamin Hayes was District Judge in 1853; Agustin Olvera was finishing his term as County Judge; Dr. Wilson W. Jones was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:County Clerk and Recorder--two offices not separated for twenty years or until 1873; Lewis Granger was County Attorney; Henry Hancock was Surveyor; Francis Mellus (who succeeded Don Manuel Garfias, once the princely owner but bad manager of the San Pasqual <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The administrative officials of both the City and the County had their headquarters in the one-story adobe building at the northwest corner of Franklin Alley (later called Jail Street<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: ) and Spring Street.  In addition to those mentioned, there was a Justice of the Peace, a <HI REND="italics">Zanjero</HI>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">In April, 1872, officially named Franklin Street.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Ant&oacute;nio Franco Coronel, after whom Coronel Street is named, had just entered upon the duties of Mayor, and was busy enough with the disposal of donation lots when I first commenced to observe Los Angeles' government.  He came from Mexico to California with his father, Don Ygn&aacute;cio F. Coronel; and by 1850 he was the first County Assessor.  He lived at what is now Alameda and Seventh streets, and had a brother, Manuel, who was City Assessor in 1858.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Major Henry Hancock, a New Hampshire lawyer and surveyor, came to Los Angeles in 1852, and at the time of my arrival had just made the second survey of the city, defining the boundaries of the thirty-five-acre City lots.  I met him frequently, and by 1859 I was well acquainted with him. He then owed Newmark, Kremer &amp; Company some money and offered, toward liquidation of the debt, one hundred and ten acres of land lying along Washington and extending as far as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:the present Pico Street. It also reached from Main Street to what is now Grand Avenue. Newmark, Kremer &amp; Company did not wish the land, and so arranged with Hancock to take firewood instead.  From time to time, therefore, he brought great logs into town, to be cut up; he also bought a circular saw, which he installed, with horse-power and tread-mill, in a vacant lot on Spring Street, back of Joseph Newmark's second residence. The latter was on Main Street, between First and the northern junction of Main and Spring; and between this junction and First Street, it may be interesting to note, there was in 1853 no thoroughfare from Main to Spring.  As I was living there, I acted as his agent for the sale of the wood that was left after our settlement.  The fact is that Hancock was always land poor, and never out of debt; and when he was particularly hard up, he parted with his possessions at whatever price they would bring.  The Major (earlier known as Captain Hancock, who enjoyed his titles through his association with the militia) retained, however, the celebrated La Brea <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>George Hansen, to whose far-reaching foresight we owe the Elysian Park of to-day, was another professional man who was here before I reached Los Angeles, having come to California in 1850, by way of Cape Horn and Peru.  When he arrived at Los Angeles, in 1853, as he was fond of recounting, he was too poor to possess even surveying instruments; but he found a friend in John Temple, who let him have one hundred dollars at two per cent. interest per month, then a very low rate. Thereupon Hansen sent to San Francisco for the outfit that enabled him to establish himself.  I met Hansen for the first time in the last few weeks of 1853, when he came to my brother's store to buy a suit of clothes, his own being in rags. He had been out, very probably, on an expedition such as subjected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>Among others who were here, I might mention the Wheeler brothers.  Colonel John Ozias Wheeler, at various times an office-holder, came to California from Florida, and having endured many hardships on the trip along the Mississippi, Arkansas and Gila rivers, arrived at the Chino rancho on August 12th, 1849, afterward assisting Isaac Williams in conveying a train of supplies back to the Colorado River. The next year he was joined by his brother, Horace Z. Wheeler, who came by way of the Isthmus, and later rose to be Appraiser-General of the Imperial Customs at Yokohama; and the two young men were soon conducting a general merchandise business in Los Angeles--if I recollect aright, in a one-story adobe at the northeast corner of Main and Commercial streets. Extravagant stories have been printed as to Wheeler's mercantile operations, one narrative crediting him with sales to the extent of five thousand dollars or more a day.  In those times, however, no store was large enough to contain such a stock; and two successive days of heavy sales would have been impossible.  In 1851 Colonel Wheeler, who had been on General Andr&eacute;s Pico's staff, served as a Ranger; and in 1853 he organized the first military company in Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Manuel Requena, from Yucatan, was another man of influence. He lived on the east side of Los Angeles Street, norm of the thoroughfare opened through his vineyard and Bed after him--later extended east of Los Angeles Street. As early as June, 1836, Requena, then <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
023.sgm:, made a census of this district. He was a member of the first, as well as the second, third, fifth and seventh Common Councils, and with David W. Alexander was the only member of the first body to serve out the entire term.  In 1852, Requena was elected a Supervisor.  Mrs. Requena was a sister of Mrs. Alexander Bell and Mrs. James, or Santiago Johnson, and an aunt of Henry and Francis <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>Henry N. Alexander appeared in Los Angeles at about the same time that I did-possibly afterward--and was very active as a Ranger.  He too occupied positions of trust, in business as well as public life, being both City and County Treasurer--in the latter case, preceding Maurice Kremer.  It is not surprising, therefore, that he became Wells Fargo &amp; Company's agent when much uphill work had to be done to establish their interests here.  He married a daughter of Don Pedro Dominguez.  Alexander moved to Arizona, after which I lost track of him.</P>
023.sgm:<P>John W. Shore, who was here in 1853, was County Clerk from 1854 to 1857, and again from 1860 to 1863.  He always canvassed for votes on horseback until, one day, he fell off and broke his leg, necessitating amputation.  This terminated his active campaigns; but through sympathy he was reelected, and by a larger majority.  Shore was a Democrat.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mention of public officials leads me to speak of an interesting personality long associated with them. On the west side of Spring Street near First, where the Schumacher Building now stands, John Schumacher conducted, in a single room, as was then common, a grocery store and bar. A good-hearted, honest German of the old school, and a first-class citizen, he had come from W&uuml;rtemberg to America, and then, with Stevenson's Regiment, to California, arriving in Los Angeles in 1847 or 1848. From here he went to Sutter's Creek, where he found a nugget of gold worth eight hundred dollars, for which he was offered land in San Francisco later worth millions--a tender which the W&uuml;rtemberger declined; and the same year that I arrived, he returned to Los Angeles, whose activity had increased considerably since he had last seen it.  In 1855, Schumacher married Fr&auml;ulein Mary Uhrie, from which union six children including two sons, John and Frank G. Schumacher, were born.  The eldest daughter became Mrs. Edward A. Preuss.  Schumacher established his store, having bought nearly the whole block bounded by Spring and First streets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>For something else, however, Schumacher was especially known. When he returned in 1853, he put on sale the first lager beer introduced into Los Angeles, importing the same from San Francisco, of which enterprise the genial German was proud; but Schumacher acquired even more fame for a drink that he may be said to have invented, and which was known to the early settlers as <HI REND="italics">Peach and Honey</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Most political meetings of that period took place at the Plaza home of Don Ygn&aacute;cio Del Valle, first County Recorder. From 1841, Don Ygn&aacute;cio lived for some time on the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: granted by the King of Spain to his father and confirmed by patent in 1875. He also owned the more famous Camulos <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: on the Santa Clara River, consisting of several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:thousand acres north and west of Newhall, afterward selected by Helen Hunt Jackson as the setting for some of the scenes in her novel, <HI REND="italics">Ramona</HI>
023.sgm:; and these possessions made him a man of great importance. During his later life, when he had abandoned his town residence, Del Valle dwelt in genteel leisure at the <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>At the time of my arrival, there was but one voting precinct and the polling place was located at the old municipal and County adobe already spoken of; although later a second polls was established at the Round House.  Inside the room, sat the election judges and clerks; outside a window, stood the jam of voters.  The window-sill corresponded to the thickness of the adobe wall, and was therefore about three feet deep. This sill served as a table, upon it being placed a soap- or candle-box, into which a hole had been cut for the deposit of the votes.</P>
023.sgm:<P>There was also no register, either great or small, and anyone could vote. Each party printed its own tickets; and so could any candidate.  This resulted in great confusion, since there were always many tickets in the field--as many, in fact, as there were candidates; yet the entire proceeding had become legalized by custom. The candidate of one party could thus use the ticket of the other, substituting his own name for his opponent's, and leaving all of the remainder of the ticket unchanged; in addition to which there was such a lack of uniformity in the size and color of the ballots as greatly to add to the confusion in counting.</P>
023.sgm:<P>To make matters worse, the ballot-box was not easily reached because of the crowd which was made up largely of the candidates and their friends.  Challenging was the order of the day; yet, after crimination and recrimination, the votes were generally permitted to be cast. Although it is true, of course, that many votes were legitimate, yet aliens such as Mexicans, who had not even considered the question of taking out citizenship papers, were permitted to vote while Indians and half-breeds, who were not eligible to citizenship at all, were irregularly given the franchise.  The story is told of an election <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Sonorans, who had recently arrived from Mexico, as well as the aliens I have mentioned, were easy subjects for the political manipulator.  The various candidates, for example, would round-up these prospective voters like so many cattle, confine them in corrals (usually in the neighborhood of Boyle Heights), keep them in a truly magnificent state of intoxication until the eventful morning, and then put them in stages hired from either Banning or Tomlinson for the purpose; and from the time the temporary prisoners left the corral until their votes had been securely deposited, they were closely watched by guards. On reaching the voting place, the captives were unloaded from the stage like so much inanimate baggage, and turned over to friends of the candidate to whom, so to speak, for the time being they belonged. One at a time, these creatures were led to vote; and as each staggered to the ballot-box, a ticket was held up and he was made to deposit it. Once having served the purpose, he was turned loose and remained free until another election unless, as I have intimated, he and his fellows were again corralled and made to vote a second or even a third time the, same day.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nearly all influential Mexicans were Democrats, so that this party easily controlled the political situation; from which circumstance a certain brief campaign ended in a most amusing manner. It happened that Thomas H. Workman, brother of William H., once ran for County Clerk, although he was not a Democrat. Billy was naturally much interested in his brother's candidacy, and did what he could to help him. On the evening before election, he rented a corral--located near what is now Macy Street and Mission Road, on property later used by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Charles F., father of Alfred Stern, and for years in partnership with L. J. Rose; and there, with the assistance of some friends, he herded together about one hundred docile though illegal voters, most of whom were Indians, kept them all night and, by supplying fire-water liberally, at length led them into the state of bewilderment necessary for such an occasion.  The Democratic leaders, however, having learned of this magnificent <HI REND="italics">coup</HI>
023.sgm:, put their heads together and soon resolved to thwart Billy's plan.  In company with some prominent Mexican politicians led by Tom&aacute;s Sanchez, they loaded themselves into a stage and visited the corral; and once arrived there, those that could made such flowery stump speeches in the native language of the horde that, in fifteen or twenty minutes, they had stampeded the whole band!  Billy entered a vigorous protest, saying that the votes were <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
023.sgm: and that it was a questionable and even a damnable trick; but all his protests were of no avail: the bunch of corralled voters had been captured in a body by the opposition, deciding the contest. These were the methods then in vogue in accordance with which it was considered a perfectly legitimate transaction to buy votes, and there was no secret made of the <HI REND="italics">modus operandi</HI>
023.sgm:<P>During these times of agitated politics, newspapers (such as they were) played an important part.  In them were published letters written by ambitious candidates to themselves and signed, "The People," "A Disinterested Citizen," or some equally anonymous phrase.  As an exception to the usual maneuver, however, the following witty announcement was once printed by an office-seeker:</P>
023.sgm:<P>George N. Whitman, not having been requested by "Many Friends," or solicited by "Many Voters," to become a candidate for the office of Township Constable, at the end of the ensuing September election, offers himself.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Here I am reminded of an anecdote at the expense of John Quincy Adams Stanley, who in 1856 ran for Sheriff against David W. Alexander, and was County Assessor in the middle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:seventies.  Stanley was a very decent but somewhat over-trusting individual; and ignoring suggestions as to expenditures for votes, too readily believed promises of support by the voters of the county, almost every one of whom gave him a favorable pledge in the course of the campaign. When the ballots were counted, however, and Stanley learned that he had received just about fifty votes, he remarked, rather dryly: "I didn't know that there were so many <HI REND="italics">damned liars</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Another interesting factor in early elections was the vote of Teh&aacute;chepi, then in Los Angeles County. About thirty votes were cast there; but as communication with Los Angeles was irregular, it was sometimes necessary to wait a week or more to know what bearing the decision of Teh&aacute;chepi had on the general result.</P>
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023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V<LB>LAWYERS AND COURTS<LB>1853</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>IN the primitive fifties there were but comparatively few reputable lawyers in this neighborhood; nor was there, perhaps, sufficient call for their services to insure much of a living to many more.  To a greater extent even than now, attorneys were called "Judge;" and at the time whereof I write, the most important among them were Jonathan R. Scott, Benjamin Hayes, J. Lancaster Brent, Myron Norton, General Ezra Drown, Benjamin S. Eaton, Cameron E. Thom, James H. Lander, Lewis Granger, Isaac Stockton Keith Ogier, Edward J. C. Kewen and Joseph R. Gitchell.  In addition to these, there was a lawyer named William G. Dryden, of whom I shall presently speak, and one Kimball H. Dimmick, who was largely devoted to criminal practice.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scott, who had been a prominent lawyer in Missouri, stood very high, both as to physique and reputation. In addition to his great stature, he had a splendid constitution and wonderful vitality and was identified with nearly every important case. About March, 1850, he came here an overland emigrant, and was made one of the two justices of the peace who formed, with the county judge, on June 24th, the first Court of Sessions. He then entered into partnership with Benjamin Hayes, continuing in joint practice with him until April, 1852, after which he was a member Successively of the law firms of Scott &amp; Granger, Scott &amp; Lander, and Scott, Drown &amp; Lander.  Practicing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:law in those days was not without its difficulties, partly because of the lack of law-books; and Scott used to tell in his own vehement style how, on one occasion, when he was defending a French sea captain against charges preferred by a rich Peruvian passenger, he was unable to make much headway because there was but one volume (Kent's <HI REND="italics">Commentaries</HI>
023.sgm: ) in the whole pueblo that threw any light, so to speak, on the question; which lack of information induced <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Hayes was District Judge when I came, and continued as such for ten or twelve years.  His jurisdiction embraced Los Angeles, San Diego, San Luis Obispo and Santa B&aacute;rbara counties; and the latter section then included Ventura County. The Judge had regular terms in these districts and was compelled to hold court at all of the County seats.  A native of Baltimore, Hayes came to Los Angeles on February 3d, 1850--followed on St. Valentine's Day, 1852, by his wife whose journey from St. Louis, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm: New Orleans, Havana and Panam&aacute;, consumed forty-three days on the steamers.  He was at once elected the first County Attorney, and tried the famous case against the Irving party.  About the same time Hayes formed his partnership with Scott.  In January, 1855, and while District Judge, Hayes sentenced the murderer Brown; and in 1858 he presided at Pancho Daniel's trial.  Hayes continued to practice for many years, and was known as a jurist of high standing, though on account of his love for strong drink, court <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Brent, a native of the South, was also a man of attainment, arriving here in 1850 with a fairly representative, though inadequate library, and becoming in 1855 and 1856 a member of the State Assembly. He had such wonderful influence, as one of the Democratic leaders, that he could nominate at will any candidate; and being especially popular with the Mexican element, could also tell a good story or two about fees. When trouble arose in 1851 between several members of the Lugo family and the Indians, resulting finally in an attempted assassination and the narrow escape from death of Judge Hayes (who was associated with the prosecution of the case), several of the Lugos were tried for murder; and Brent, whose defense led to their acquittal, received something like twenty thousand dollars for his services.  He was of a studious turn of mind and acquired most of Hugo Reid's Indian library.  When the Civil War broke out, Brent went South again and became a Confederate brigadier-general.  Brent Street bears his name.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Norton, a Vermonter, who had first practiced law in New York, then migrated west, and had later been a prime mover for, and a member of, the first California Constitutional Convention, and who was afterward Superior Court Judge at San Francisco, was an excellent lawyer, when sober, and a good fellow. He came to the Coast in the super of 1848, was made First Lieutenant and Chief-of-Staff of the California Volunteers, and drifted in 1852 from Monterey to Los Angeles.  He joined Bean's Volunteers, and in 1857 delivered here a flowery Fourth of July oration.  Norton was the second County Judge, succeeding Agustin Olvera and living with the latter's family at the Plaza; and it was from Norton's Court of Sessions, in May, 1855, that the dark-skinned Juan Flores was sent to the State prison, although few persons suspected him to be guilty of such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Judge Hayes' successor, Don Pablo de la Guerra, was born in the <HI REND="italics">presidio</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Drown was a lawyer who came here a few months before I did, having just passed through one of those trying ordeals which might easily prove sufficient to destroy the courage and ambition of any man.  He hailed from Iowa, where he had served as Brigadier-General of Militia, and was bound up the Coast from the Isthmus on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Independence</HI>
023.sgm: when it took fire, off Lower California, and burned to the water's edge.  General Drown, being a good swimmer and a plucky fellow, set his wife adrift on a hen-coop and then put off for shore with his two children on his back. Having deposited them safely on the beach, he swam back to get his wife; but a brutal fellow passenger pushed the fainting woman off when her agonized husband was within a few feet of her; she sank beneath the waves, and he saw his companion go to her doom at the moment she was about to be rescued.  Though broken in spirit, Drown on landing at San Pedro came to Los Angeles with his two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Dimmick, who at one time occupied an office in the old Temple Block on Main Street, had rather an eventful career. Born in Connecticut, he learned the printer's trade; then he studied law and was soon admitted to practice in New York; and in 1846 he sailed with Colonel J. D. Stevenson, in command of Company H, landing, six months later, at the picturesquely-named Yerba Buena, on whose slopes the bustling town of San Francisco was so soon to be founded. When peace with Mexico was established, Dimmick moved to San Jos&eacute;; after which with Foster he went to the convention whose mission was to frame a State constitution, and was later chosen Judge of the Supreme Court. In 1852, after having revisited the East and been defrauded of practically all he possessed by those to whom he had entrusted his California affairs, Dimmick came to Los Angeles and served as Justice of the Peace, Notary Public and County Judge.   He was also elected District Attorney, and at another time was appointed by the Court to defend the outlaw, Pancho Daniel.  Dimmick's practice was really largely criminal, which frequently made him a defender of horse-thieves, gamblers and desperadoes; and in such cases one could always anticipate his stereotyped plea:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gentlemen of the Jury: The District Attorney prosecuting my client is paid by the County to convict this prisoner, whether he be guilty or innocent; and I plead with you, gentlemen, in the name of Impartial Justice, to bring in a verdict of "Not guilty!"</P>
023.sgm:<P>Through the help of his old-time friend, Secretary William H. Seward, Dimmick toward the end of his life was appointed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Eaton, another prominent representative of the Bar, came from New England as early as 1850, while California government was in its infancy and life anything but secure; and he had not been here more than a few months when the maneuvers of Ant&oacute;nio Garra, Agua Caliente's chief, threatened an insurrection extending from Tulare to San Diego and made necessary the organization, under General J. H. `Bean, of volunteers to allay the terror-stricken community's fears. Happily, the company's chief activity was' the quieting of feminine nerves.  On October 3d, 1853, Eaton was elected District Attorney and in 1857, County Assessor. Later, after living for a while at San Gabriel, Eaton became a founder of the Pasadena colony, acting as its President for several years; and in 1876 he was one of the committee to arrange for the local Centennial celebration.  Frederick Eaton, several times City Engineer and once--in 1899-1900--Mayor of Los Angeles, is a son of Benjamin Eaton and his first wife, Helena Hayes, who died a few years after she came here, and the brother of Mrs. Hancock Johnston.  He reflects no little credit on his father by reason of a very early, effective advocacy of the Owens River Aqueduct.  Under his administration, the City began this colossal undertaking, which was brought to a happy consummation in the year 1913 through the engineering skill of William Mulholland, Eaton's friend.  In 1861, Judge Eaton married Miss Alice Taylor Clark, of Providence, R. I., who is still living.</P>
023.sgm:<P>While I am upon this subject of lawyers and officialdom, a few words regarding early jurists and court decorum may be in order. In 1853, Judge Dryden, who had arrived in 1850, was but a Police Justice, not yet having succeeded Dimmick as County Judge; and at no time was his knowledge of the law and things pertaining thereto other than extremely limited. His audacity, however, frequently sustained him in positions that otherwise might have been embarrassing; and this audacity was especially apparent in Dryden's strong opposition to <illus entity="a023-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Henry Mellus</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Francis Mellus</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">John G. Downey</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Charles L. Ducommun</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The Plaza Church</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>"I'll be --- <HI REND="italics">damned</HI>
023.sgm:<P>All of which recalls to me a report, once printed in the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Justice Dryden and the Jury sat on the body. The verdict was: "Death from intoxication, or by the visitation of God!"</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dryden, who was possessed of a genial personality, was long remembered with pleasure for participation in Fourth of July celebrations and processions.  He was married, I believe, in 1851, only one year after he arrived here, to Se&ntilde;orita Dolores Nieto; and she having died, he took as his second wife, in September, 1868, another Spanish lady, Se&ntilde;orita Anita Dominguez, daughter of Don Manuel Dominguez. Less than a year afterward, on September 10th, 1869, Judge Dryden himself died at the age of seventy years.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thom, by the way, came from Virginia in 1849 and advanced rapidly in his profession. It was far from his expectation to remain in Los Angeles longer than was necessary; and he has frequently repeated to me the story of his immediate infatuation with this beautiful section and its cheering climate, and how he fell in love with the quaint little pueblo at first sight. Soon after he decided to remain here, he was assigned as associate counsel to defend Pancho Daniel, after the retirement of Columbus Sims.  In 1856, Thom was appointed both <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:City and District Attorney, and occupied the two positions at the same time--an odd situation which actually brought it about, during his tenure of offices, that a land dispute between the City and the County obliged Thom to defend both interests!  In 1863, he was a partner with A. B. Chapman; and twenty years later, having previously served aa State Senator, he was elected Mayor of the city. Captain Thom married two sisters--first choosing Miss Susan Henrietta Hathwell, and then, sometime after her death, leading to the altar Miss Belle Cameron Hathwell whom he had named and for whom, when she was baptized, he had stood godfather. A man ultimately affluent, he owned, among other properties, a large ranch at Glendale.<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">Thom died on February 2d, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Another good story concerning Judge Dryden comes to mind, recalling a certain Sheriff.  As the yarn goes, the latter presented himself as a candidate for the office of Sheriff; and in order to capture the vote of the native element, he also offered to marry the daughter of an influential Mexican. A bargain was concluded and, as the result, he forthwith assumed the responsibilities and dangers of both shrieval and matrimonial life.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Before the Sheriff had possessed this double dignity very long, however, a gang of horse-thieves began depredations around Los Angeles.  A <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
023.sgm:<P>To make the story short, the case was tried and the prisoner was found guilty; but owing to influence (to which most juries in those days were very susceptible) there was an appeal for judicial leniency.  Judge Dryden, therefore, in announcing the verdict, said to the Sheriff's brother-in-law, "The jury finds you guilty as charged," and then proceeded to read the prisoner a long and severe lecture, to which he added: "But the jury recommends clemency. Accordingly, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:declare you a free man, and you may go about your business." Thereupon someone in the room asked: "What <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
023.sgm: his business?" To which the Judge, never flinching, shouted; " <HI REND="italics">Horse-stealing</HI>
023.sgm:, sir!  <HI REND="italics">horse-stealing</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Lander was here in 1853, having come from the East the year previous. He was a Harvard College graduate--there were not many on the Coast in those days-and was known as a good office-practitioner; he was for some time, in fact, the Bar's choice for Court Commissioner.  I think that, for quite a while, he was the only examiner of real estate titles; he was certainly the only one I knew.  On October 15th, 1852, Lander had married Se&ntilde;orita Margarita, a daughter of Don Santiago Johnson, who was said to have been one of the best known business men prior to 1846.  Afterward Lander lived in a cottage on the northeast corner of Fourth and Spring streets.  This cottage he sold to I. W. Hellman in the early seventies, for four thousand dollars; and Hellman, in turn, sold it at cost to his brother.  On that lot, worth to-day probably a million dollars, the H. W. Hellman Building now stands.  Lander died on June 10th, 1873.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Granger was still another lawyer who was here when I arrived, he having come with his family--one of the first American households to be permanently established here--in 1850. By 1852, he had formed a partnership with Jonathan R. Scott, and in that year attained popularity through his Fourth of July oration.  Granger was, in fact, a fluent and attractive speaker; which accounted, perhaps, for his election as City Attorney in 1855, after he had served the city as a member of the Common Council in 1854.  If I recollect aright, he was a candidate for the district judgeship in the seventies, but was defeated.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ogier, a lawyer from Charleston, S. C., came to California in 1849, and to Los Angeles in 1851, forming a partnership on May 31st of that year with Don Manuel Clemente Rojo, a clever, genial native of Peru.  On September 29th, Ogier succeeded William C. Ferrell, the first District Attorney; in 1853, he joined the voluntary police; and later served, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:some years, as United States District Judge.  He died at Holcombe Valley in May, 1861. Ogier Street, formerly Ogier Lane, was named for him.  Rojo, after dividing his time between the law and the Spanish editorial work on the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Kewen, a native of Mississippi and a veteran of the Mexican War, came to Los Angeles in 1858 with the title of Colonel, after <HI REND="italics">fiasco</HI>
023.sgm: followed his efforts, in the Southern States, to raise relief for the filibuster Walker, on whose expedition A. L. Kewen, a brother, had been killed in the battle at Rivas, Nicaragua, in June, 1855. Once a practitioner at law in St. Louis, Kewen was elected California's first Attorney-General, and even prior to the delivery of his oration before the Society of Pioneers at San Francisco, in 1854, he was distinguished for his eloquence.  In 1858, he was Superintendent of Los Angeles City Schools.  In the sixties, Kewen and Norton formed a partnership. Settling on an undulating tract of some four hundred and fifty acres near San Gabriel, including the ruins of the old Mission mill and now embracing the grounds of the Huntington Hotel, Kewen repaired the house and converted it into a cosy and even luxurious residence, calling the estate ornamented with gardens and fountains, <HI REND="italics">El Molino</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Gitchell, United States District Attorney in the late fifties, practiced here for many years.  He was a jolly old bachelor and was popular, although he did not attain eminence.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Isaac Hartman, an attorney, and his wife, who were among the particularly agreeable people here in 1853, soon left for the East.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Volney E. Howard came with his family in the late fifties. He left San Francisco, where he had been practicing law, rather suddenly, and at a time when social conditions in the city were demoralized, and the citizens, as in the case of the people of Los Angeles, were obliged to organize a vigilance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of the informality of courts in the earlier days, I should record that jurymen and others would come in coatless and, especially in warm weather, without vests and collars; and that it was the fashion for each juryman to provide himself with a jack-knife and a piece of wood, in order that he might whittle the time away.  This was a recognized privilege, and I am not exaggerating when I say that if he forgot his piece of wood, it was considered his further prerogative to whittle the chair on which he sat! In other respects, also, court solemnity was lacking.  Judge and attorneys would frequently lock horns; and sometimes their disputes ended violently. On one occasion, for example, while I was in court, Columbus Sims, an attorney who came here in 1852, threw an inkstand at his opponent, during an altercation; but this contempt of court did not call forth his disbarment, for he was later found acting as attorney for Pancho Daniel, one of Sheriff Barton's murderers, until sickness compelled his retirement from the case.  As to panel-service, I recollect that while serving as juror in those early days, we were once locked up for the night; and in order that time might not hang too heavily on our hands, we engaged in a sociable little game of poker.  Sims is dead.</P>
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023.sgm:<P>More than inkstands were sometimes hurled in the early courts.  On one occasion, for instance, after the angry disputants had arrived at a state of agitation which made the further use of canes, chairs, and similar objects tame and uninteresting, revolvers were drawn, notwithstanding the marshal's repeated attempts to restore order.  Judge Dryden, in the midst of the m&ecirc;l&eacute;e, hid behind the platform upon which his Judgeship's bench rested; and being well out of the range of the threatening irons, yelled at the rioters:</P>
023.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Shoot away</HI>
023.sgm:, damn you! and to <HI REND="italics">hell</HI>
023.sgm:<P>After making due allowance for primitive conditions, it must be admitted that many and needless were the evils incidental to court administration; There was, for instance, the law's delay, which necessitated additional fees to witnesses and jurors and thus materially added to the expenses of the County. Juries were always a mixture of incoming pioneers and natives; the settlers understood very little Spanish, and the native Californians knew still less English; while few or none of the attorneys could speak Spanish at all. In translating testimony, if the interpreter happened to be a friend of the criminal (which he generally was), he would present the evidence in a favorable light, and much time was wasted in silting biased translations.  Of course, there were interpreters who doubtless endeavored to perform their duties conscientiously. George Thompson Burrill, the first Sheriff, received fifty dollars a month as court interpreter, and Manuel Clemente Rojo translated testimony as well; officials I believe to have been honest and conscientious.</P>
023.sgm:<P>While alluding to court interpreters and the general use of Spanish during at least the first decade after I came to California, I am reminded of the case of Joaqu&iacute;n Carrillo, who was elected District Judge, in the early fifties, to succeed Judge Henry A. Tefft of Santa B&aacute;rbara, who had been drowned near San Luis Obispo while attempting to land from a steamer in order to hold court.  During the fourteen years when Carrillo held office, he was constantly handicapped by his little knowledge of the English language and the consequent necessity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Sheriff Burrill had a brother, S. Thompson Burrill, who was a lawyer and a Justice of the Peace. He held court in the Padilla Building on Main Street, opposite the present site of the Bullard Block and adjoining my brother's store; and as a result of this proximity we became friendly.  He was one of the best-dressed men in town, although, when I first met him, he could not have been less than sixty years of age.  He presented me with my first dog, which I lost on account of stray poison: evil-disposed or thoughtless persons, with no respect for the owner, whether a neighbor or not, and without the slightest consideration for pedigree, were in the habit of throwing poison on the streets to kill off canines, of which there was certainly a superabundance.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ygn&aacute;cio Sep&uacute;lveda, the jurist and a son of Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s Sep&uacute;lveda, was living here when I arrived, though but a boy. Born in Los Angeles in 1842, he was educated in the East and in 1863 admitted to the Bar; he served in the State Legislature of the following winter, was County Judge from 1870 to 1873, and District Judge in 1874.  Five years later he was elected Superior Judge, but resigned his position in 1884 to become Wells Fargo &amp; Company's representative in the City of Mexico, at which capital for two years he was also American <HI REND="italics">Charg&eacute; d'Affaires</HI>
023.sgm:.  There to my great pleasure I met him, bearing his honors modestly, in January, 1885, during my tour of the southern republic.<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3">After an absence of thirty years, Judge Sep&uacute;lveda returned to Los Angeles, In 1914, and was heartily welcomed back by his many friends and admirers.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Horace Bell was a nephew of Captain Alexander Bell, of Bell's Row; and as an early comer to Los Angeles, he joined the volunteer mounted police. Although for years an attorney and journalist, in which capacity he edited the <HI REND="italics">Porcupine</HI>
023.sgm:, he is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:best known for his <HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of</HI>
023.sgm:<P>This reference to the Rangers reminds me that I was not long in Los Angeles when I heard of the adventures of Joaqu&iacute;n Murieta, who had been killed but a few months before I came. According to the stories current, Murieta, a nephew of Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a Valdez, was a decent-enough sort of fellow, who had been subjected to more or less injustice from certain American settlers, and who was finally bound to a tree and horsewhipped, after seeing his brother hung, on a trumped-up charge.   In revenge, Murieta had organized a company of bandits, and for two or three years had terrorized a good part of the entire State. Finally, in August, 1853, while the outlaw and several of his companions were off their guard near the Tej&oacute;n Paso, they were encountered by Captain Harry Love and his volunteer mounted police organized to get him, "dead or alive;" the latter killed Murieta and another desperado known as Three-fingered Jack.  Immediately the outlaws were despatched, their heads and the deformed hand of Three-fingered Jack were removed from the bodies and sent by John Sylvester and Harry Bloodsworth to Dr. William Francis Edgar, then a surgeon at Fort Miller; but a flood interfering, Sylvester swam the river with his barley sack and its gruesome contents.  Edgar put the trophies into whiskey and arsenic, when they were transmitted to the civil authorities, as vouchers for a reward.  Bloodsworth died lately.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Daredevils of a less malicious type were also resident among us. On the evening of December 31st, 1853, for example, I was in our store at eight o'clock when Felipe Rheim--often called Reihm and even Riehm--gloriously intoxicated and out for a good time, appeared on the scene, flourishing the ubiquitous weapon. His celebration of the New Year had apparently commenced, and he was already six sheets in the wind. Like many another man, Felipe, a very worthy German, was good-natured when sober, but a terror when drunk; and as soon as he spied my solitary figure, he pointed his gun at me, saying, at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:same time, in his vigorous native tongue, "Treat, or <HI REND="italics">I shoot</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The first New Year's Eve that I spent in Los Angeles was ushered in with the indiscriminate discharging of pistols and guns. This method of celebrating was, I may say, a novelty to me, and no less a surprise; for of course I was unaware of the fact that, when the city was organized, three years before, a proposition to prohibit the carrying of firearms of any sort, or the shooting off of the same, except in defense of self, home or property, had been stricken from the first constitution by the committee on police, who reported that such an ordinance could not at that time be enforced. Promiscuous firing continued for years to be indulged in by early Angele&ntilde;os, though frequently condemned in the daily press, and such was its effect upon even me that I soon found myself peppering away at a convenient adobe wall on Commercial Street, seeking to perfect my aim!</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI<LB>MERCHANTS AND SHOPS<LB>1853</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>TRIVIAL events in a man's life sometimes become indelibly impressed on his memory; and one such experience of my own is perhaps worth mentioning as another illustration of the rough character of the times. One Sunday, a few days after my arrival, my brother called upon a tonsorial celebrity, Peter Biggs, of whom I shall speak later, leaving me in charge of the store. There were two entrances, one on Main Street, the other on Requena.  I was standing at the Main Street door, unconscious of impending excitement, when a stranger rode up on horseback and, without the least hesitation or warning, pointed a pistol at me. I was not sufficiently amused to delay my going, but promptly retreated to the other door where the practical joker, astride his horse, had easily anticipated my arrival and again greeted me with the muzzle of his weapon.  These maneuvers were executed a number of times, and my ill-concealed trepidation only seemed to augment the diversion of a rapidly-increasing audience.  My brother returned in the midst of the fun and asked the jolly joker what in hell he meant by such behavior; to which he replied: "Oh, I just wanted to frighten the boy!"</P>
023.sgm:<P>Soon after this incident, my brother left for San Francisco; and his partner, Jacob Rich, accompanied by his wife, came south and rented rooms in what was then known as Mellus's Row, an adobe building for the most part one-story, standing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Everything at that time indicating that I was in for a commercial career, it was natural that I should become acquainted with the merchants then in Los Angeles. Some of the tradesmen, I dare say, I have forgotten; but a more or less distinct recollection remains of many, and to a few of them I shall allude.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Temple Street had not then been opened by Beaudry and Potts, although there was a little <HI REND="italics">cul-de-sac</HI>
023.sgm: extending west from Spring Street; and at the junction of what is now Spring and Temple streets, there was a two-story adobe building in which D. W. Alexander and Francis Mellus conducted a general merchandise business, and at one time acted as agents for Mellus &amp; Howard of San Francisco. Mellus, who was born in Salem, Massachusetts, February 3d, 1824, came to the Coast in 1839, first landing at Santa B&aacute;rbara; and when I first met him he had married Adelaida, daughter of Don Santiago Johnson, and our fellow-townsman, James J. Mellus--familiarly known <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Most of the commercial activity in this period was carried on north of First Street.  The native population inhabited Sonora Town, for the most part a collection of adobes, named after the Mexican state whence came many of our people; there was a contingent from other parts of Mexico; and a small sprinkling of South Americans from Chile and Peru.  Among this Spanish-speaking people quite a business was done by Latin-American storekeepers. It followed, naturally enough, that they dealt in all kinds of Mexican goods.</P>
023.sgm:<P>One of the very few white men in this district was Jos&eacute; Mascarel (a powerfully-built French sea-captain and master of the ship that brought Don Luis Vignes to the Southland), who settled in Los Angeles in 1844, marrying an Indian woman. He had come with Prudhomme and others; and under Captain Henseley had taken part in the military events at San Bartolo and the Mesa. By 1865, when he was Mayor of the city, he had already accumulated a number of important real estate holdings and owned, with another Frenchman, Juan Barri, a baker, the block extending east on the south side of Commercial Street, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Andr&eacute;s Ramirez was another Sonora Town merchant. He had come from Mexico in 1844, and sold general merchandise in what, for a while, was dubbed the Street of the Maids. Later, this was better known as Upper Main Street; and still later it was called San Fernando Street.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Louis Abarca was a tradesman and a neighbor of Ramirez. Prosperous until the advent of the pioneer, he little by little became poorer, and finally withdrew from business.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Juan Bernard, a native of French Switzerland, whose daughter married D. Botiller, now an important landowner, came to California by way of the Horn, in search of the. precious metal, preceding me to this land of sunshine.  For awhile, he had a brickyard on Buena Vista Street; but in the late seventies, soon after marrying Se&ntilde;orita Susana Machado, daughter of Don Agustin Machado, he bought a vineyard on Alameda Street, picturesquely enclosed by a high adobe or brick wall much after the fashion of a European ch&acirc;teau.  He also came to own the site of the Natick House.  A clever linguist and a man of attractive personality, he passed away in 1889.</P>
023.sgm:<P>An American by the name of George Walters lived on Upper Main Street, among the denizens of which locality he was an influential person. Born at New Orleans as early as 1809, Walters had trapped and traded in the Rocky Mountains, then teamed for awhile between Santa F& and neighboring points.  Near the end of 1844, he left New Mexico in company with James Waters, Jim Beckwith and other travelers, finally reaching Los Angeles.  Walters, who settled in San Bernardino, was at the Chino Ranch, with B. D. Wilson <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Julian Chavez, after whom Chavez Street is named, was here in 1853.  If he was not native-born, he came.here at a very early day.  He owned a stretch of many acres, about a mile northeast of Los Angeles. He was a good, honest citizen, and is worthy of recollection.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ram&oacute;n Alexander, a Frenchman often confused with David Alexander, came to Los Angeles before 1850, while it was still a mere Mexican village.  Pioneers remember him especially as the builder of the long-famous Round House, on Main Street, and as one who also for some time kept a saloon near Requena Street.  Alexander's wife was a Se&ntilde;orita Valdez.  He died in 1870.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Antoine Laborie was another Frenchman here before the beginning of the fifties. He continued to live in Los Angeles till at least the late seventies. A fellow-countryman, B. Dubordieu, had a bakery in Sonora Town.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Philip Rheim, the good-natured German to whom I have referred, had a little store and saloon, before I came, called <HI REND="italics">Los dos Amigos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A month after I arrived here, John Behn, who had a grocery business at the northeast corner of First and Los Angeles streets, retired.  He had come to Los Angeles from Baden in 1848, and, after forming one or two partnerships, had sold out to Lorenzo Leck, a German Dane, who reached here in November, 1849, and whose son, Henry von der Leck, married a daughter of Tom Mott and is living at San Juan Capistrano.  Leck opened his own store in 1854, and despite the trials to which he was to be subjected, he was able, in 1868, to pay John Schumacher three thousand dollars for a lot on Main Street. Leck had a liking for the spectacular; and in the November previous to my arrival was active, as I have been told, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Goller and Nordliolt, in organizing the first political procession seen in Los Angeles. The election of Pierce was the incentive, and there were gorgeous transparencies provided for the event. It was on this occasion that a popular local character, George the Baker, burned himself badly while trying to fire off the diminutive cannon borrowed from the Spanish <HI REND="italics">padre</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the one-story adobe of Mascarel and Barri, on the corner of Commercial and Main streets, now the site of the United States National Bank, an Irishman named Samuel G. Arbuckle, who had come here in 1850 and was associated for a short time with S. Lazard, conducted a dry goods store.  From 1852 to 1856, Arbuckle was City Treasurer.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the same building, and adjoining Arbuckle's, John Jones, father of Mrs. J. B. Lankershim and M. G. Jones, carried on a wholesale grocery business. Jones had left England for Australia, when forty-seven years old, and a year later touched the coast of California at Monterey and came to Los Angeles.  Twice a year, Jones went north in a schooner, for the purpose of replenishing his stock; and after making his purchases and having the boat loaded, he would return to Los Angeles.  Sometimes he traveled with the round-bellied, short and jolly Captain Morton who recalled his illustrious prototype, Wouter van Twiller, so humorously described by Washington Irving as "exactly five feet six inches in height, and six feet five inches in circumference;" sometimes he sailed with Captain J. S. Garcia, a good-natured seaman.  During his absence, the store remained closed; and as this trip always required at least six weeks, some idea may be obtained of the Sleepy Hollow methods then prevailing in this part of the West.  In 1854 or 1855, Jones, who was reputed to be worth some fifty thousand dollars, went to San Francisco and married Miss Doria Deighton, and it was generally understood that he expected to settle there; but having been away for a couple of years, he returned to the City of the Angels, this being one of the first instances within my observation of the irresistible attraction of Los Angeles for those who have once lived here.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:It is my recollection that Jones bought from John G. Downey the Crist&oacute;bal Aguilar home then occupied by W. H. and Mrs. Perry; a building the more interesting since it was understood to have served, long in the past and before the American occupation, as a <HI REND="italics">calabozo</HI>
023.sgm: or jail, and to have had a whipping-post supposed to have done much service in keeping the turbulently-inclined natives quiet.  How many of the old adobes may at times have been used as jails, I am unable to say, but it is also related that there stood on the hill west of the Plaza another <HI REND="italics">cuartel</HI>
023.sgm:, afterward the home of B. S. Eaton, where Fred, later Mayor of Los Angeles, was born.  Like Felix Bachman and others, Jones entered actively into trade with Salt Lake City; and although he met with many reverses --notably in the loss of Captain Morton's <HI REND="italics">Laura Bevan</HI>
023.sgm:<P>John, sometimes called Juan Temple--or Jonathan, as he used to sign himself in earlier years--who paid the debt of Nature in 1866, and after whom Temple Street is named, was another merchant, having a store upon the piece of land (later the site of the Downey Block, and now occupied by the Post Office) which, from 1849 to 1866, was in charge of my friend, Don Ygn&aacute;cio Garcia, his confidential business agent. Garcia imported from Mexico both <HI REND="italics">serapes</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">rebozos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>It was really far back in 1827 when Temple came to Los Angeles, started the first general merchandise store in town, and soon took such a lead in local affairs that the first Vigilance Committee in the city was organized in his store, in 1836. Toward the fifties, he drifted south to Mexico and there acquired a vast stretch of land on the coast; but he returned here, and was soon known as one of the wealthiest, yet one of the stingiest men in all California.  His real estate holdings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The present site of the Government Building, embracing as it then did the forty-foot street north of it, was at that time improved with an adobe building covering the entire front and running back to New High Street; and this adobe, known after Temple's death as the Old Temple Block, Hinchman sold for fifteen thousand dollars. He also disposed of the new Temple Block, including the improvement at the south end which I shall describe, for but sixteen thousand dollars.  I remember quite well that Ygn&aacute;cio Garcia was the purchaser, and that, tiring of his bargain in a couple of weeks, he resold the property to John Temple's brother, Francisco, at cost.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hinchman, for fob thousand dollars, also disposed of the site of the present Bullard Block, whereon Temple had erected a large brick building, the lower part of which was used as a market while the upper part was a theater.  The terms in each of these three transactions were a thousand dollars per annum, with interest at ten per cent.  He sold to the Bixbys the Cerritos <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, containing twenty-six thousand acres, for twenty thousand dollars.  Besides these, there were eighteen lots, each one hundred and twenty by three hundred and thirty feet, located on Fort -Street (now Broadway), some of which ran through to Spring and others to Hill, which were bought by J. F. Burns and William Buffum for me thousand ad fifty dollars, or fifty dollars each for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Returning to the Fort Street lots, it may be interesting to know that the property would be worth to-day--at an average price of four thousand dollars per foot-about nine million dollars.  Eugene Meyer purchased one of the lots (on the west side of Fort Street, running through to Hill, one hundred and twenty by three hundred and thirty feet in size), for the sum of one thousand dollars; and I paid him a thousand dollars for sixty feet and the same depth.  In 1874 I built on this site the home occupied by me for about twelve years, after which I improved both fronts for F. L. Blanchard. These two blocks are still in my possession; the Broadway building is known as Blanchard Hall.  Blanchard, by the way, a comer of 1886, started his Los Angeles career in A. G. Bartlett's music store, and has since always been closely identified with art movements.  He organized the system of cluster street-lights in use here and was an early promoter of good roads.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charles L. Ducommun was here in business in 1853, he and John G. Downey having arrived together, three years before. According to the story still current, Ducommun, with his kit and stock as a watchmaker, and Downey, with his outfit as a druggist, hired a <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
023.sgm: together, to transport their belongings from San Pedro to Los Angeles; but the <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
023.sgm: broke down, and the two pilgrims to the City of the Angels had to finish their journey afoot.  Ducommun's first store, located on Commercial Street between Main and Los Angeles, was about sixteen by thirty feet in size, but it contained an astonishing assortment of merchandise, such as hardware, stationery and jewelry. Perhaps the fact that Ducommun came from Switzerland, then even more than now the chief home of watchmaking, explains his early venture in the making and selling of watches; however that may be, it was to Charlie Ducommun's that the bankrupt merchant Moreno--later sentenced <HI REND="italics">to fourteen</HI>
023.sgm: or fifteen years in the penitentiary for robbing a French-man--came to sell the Frenchman's gold watch.  Moreno confessed that he had organized a gang of robbers, after his <illus entity="a023-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Pio Pico</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Juan Bandini</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Abel Stearns</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Isaac Williams</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Store of Felipe Rheim</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Ozro W. Childs, who came to Los Angeles in November, 1850, was for awhile in partnership with J. D. Hicks, the firm being known as Childs &amp; Hicks. They conducted a tin-shop on Commercial Street, in a building about twenty by forty feet. In 1861, H. D. Barrows joined them, and hardware was added to the business. Somewhat later the firm was known as J. D. Hicks &amp; Company. In 1871, Barrows bought out the Childs and Hicks interests, and soon formed a partnership with W. C. Furrey, although the latter arrived in Los Angeles only in 1872. When Barrows retired, Furrey continued alone for several years. The W. C. Furrey Company was next organized, with James W. Hellman as the active partner of Furrey, and with Simon Maier, the meat-packer and brother of the brewer, and J. A. Graves as stockholders.  Hellman, in time, succeeded this company and continued for himself. When Childs withdrew, he went in for importing and selling exotic trees and plants, and made his home place, in more modern days known as the Huntington Purchase and running from Main to Hill and Eleventh to Twelfth streets, wonderfully attractive to such tourists as then chanced this way; he also claimed to be the pioneer floriculturist of Los Angeles County. Toward the end of his life, Childs erected on Main Street, south of First, a theater styled an opera house and later known as the Grand, which was popular in its time. Childs Avenue bears the family name.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Labatt Brothers had one of the leading dry goods houses, which, strange as it may seem, they conducted in a part of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Jacob Elias was not only here in 1853, in partnership with his brother under the firm name of Elias Brothers, but he also induced some of his friends in Augusta, Georgia, to migrate to California.  Among those who came in 1854 were Pollock, whose given name I forget, and L. C., better known as Clem Goodwin.  The latter clerked for awhile for Elias Brothers, after which he associated himself with Pollock under the title of Pollock &amp; Goodwin. They occupied premises at what was then the corner of Aliso Street and Nigger Alley, and the site, some years later, of P. Beaudry's business when we had our interesting contest, the story of which I shall relate in due time. Pollock &amp; Goodwin continued in the general merchandise business for a few years, after which they returned to Augusta. Goodwin, however, came back to California in 1864 a Benedick, and while in San Francisco accidentally met Louis Polaski who was then looking for an opening.  Goodwin induced Polaski to enter into partnership with him, and the well-known early clothing house of Polaski &amp; Goodwin was thus established in the Downey Block.  In 1867, they bought out I. W. Hellman and moved over to the southeast corner of Commercial and Main streets.  Goodwin sold out to Polaski in 1881, when the firm became Polaski &amp; Sons; in 1883 Sam, Isidor and Myer L. Polaski bought out their father, and in time Polaski Brothers also withdrew. Goodwin became Vice-president of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank.  Polaski died in 1900, Goodwin having preceded him a short time before. Goodwin left his wife some valuable property, and as they were without issue, she so richly endowed the Children's Hospital, at her death, that the present building was made possible.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Lanfranco brothers--Juan T. and Mateo came from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Genoa, Italy, by way of Lima, Peru and New York, whence they crossed the Plains with James Lick the carpenter later so celebrated, and they were both here in business in 1853; Juan, a small capitalist or <HI REND="italics">petit rentier</HI>
023.sgm:, living where the Lanfranco Building now stands, opposite the Federal Building, while Mateo kept a grocery store on Main Street, not far from Commercial. In 1854, Juan added to his independence by marrying Se&ntilde;orita Petra Pilar, one of fourteen children of Don Jos&eacute; Loreto Sep&uacute;lveda, owner of the Palos Verdes <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Solomon Lazard and Maurice Kremer, cousins of about the same age, and natives of Lorraine, were associated in 1853 under the title of Lazard &amp; Kremer, being located in a storeroom in Mellus's Row, and I may add that since nearly all of the country development had taken place in districts adjacent to San Gabriel, El Monte and San Bernardino, travel through Aliso Street was important enough to make their situation one of the best in town.  Lazard had arrived in San Francisco in 1851, and having remained there about a year, departed for San Diego, where it was his intention to engage in the dry goods business.  Finding that there were not enough people there to maintain such an establishment of even moderate proportions, Lazard decided upon the advice of a seafaring man whom he met to remove his stock, which he had brought from the Northern town, to Los Angeles. He told me that he paid fifty-six dollars' steamer fare from San Francisco to San Diego, and that the freight on his merchandise cost him twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>While speaking of San Diego, I may remark that it was quite fifteen years before the interesting old Spanish settlement to the South, with which I had no business relations, attracted me; and as I was no exception, the reader may see how seldom the early settlers were inclined to roam about merely for sightseeing.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1853, M. Norton and E. Greenbaum sold merchandise at the southwest corner of Los Angeles and Commercial streets (when Jacob, J. L., an early Supervisor and City Treasurer, 1863-64 and Moritz Morris, Councilman in 1869-70, were competitors).  In time, Jacob returned to Germany, where he died.  Herman Morris, a brother, was a local newspaper reporter.  Jacob Letter was another rival, who removed to Oakland.  Still another dealer in general merchandise was M. Michaels, almost a dwarf in size, who emigrated to South America.  Casper Behrendt--father-in-law of John Kahn, a man prominent in many movements--who arrived in 1851, was another Commercial Street merchant.  Still other early merchants whom I somewhat distinctly recall were Israel Fleishman and Julius Sichel, who had a glassware, crockery and hardware business; and L. Lasky, on Commercial Street.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thomas D. Mott, father of John Mott, the attorney, who was lured to California by the gold-fever of 1849, and to Los Angeles, three years later, by the climate, I met on the day of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>All of which, insignificant as it may at first appear, I mention for the purpose of indicating the neighborhood of these operations.  The hunting-ground covered none other than that now lying between Main and Olive streets from about Sixth Street to Pico, and teeming to-day, as the reader knows, with activity and life.  There sportsmen hunted, while more matter-of-fact burghers frequently went with scythes to cut grass for their horses.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prudent Beaudry, a native of Quebec destined to make and lose several fortunes, was here when I came, having previously been a merchant in San Francisco when staple articles--such as common tacks, selling at sixteen dollars a package!--commanded enormous prices.  Two or three times, however, fire obliterated all his savings, and when he reached Los Angeles, Beaudry had only about a thousand dollars' worth of goods and two or three hundred dollars in cash.   With these assets he opened a small store on Main Street, opposite the Abel Stearns home; and again favored by the economic conditions of the times, he added to his capital very rapidly.   From Main Street Beaudry moved to Commercial, forming partnerships successively with a man named Brown and with one Le Ma&icirc;tre. As early as 1854, Beaudry had purchased the property at the northeast corner of Aliso Street and Nigger Alley for eleven thousand dollars, and this he so improved with the additional investment of twenty-five thousand dollars that he made his now elongated adobe bring him in an income of a thousand a month.  As stated elsewhere, Beaudry went to Europe in 1855, returning later to Montreal; and it was not until 1861 or later that he came back to Los Angeles and re&euml;ngaged in business, this time in his own building where until 1865 he thrived, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>David W. Alexander,  Phineas Banning's enterprising partner in establishing wagon-trains, was here when I came and was rather an influential person. An Irishman by birth, he had come to California from Mexico by way of Salt Lake, in the early forties, and lived for awhile in the San Bernardino country. From 1844 to 1849, John Temple and he had a store at San Pedro, and still later he was associated in business with Banning, selling out his interest in 1855. In 1850, Alexander was President of the first Common Council of Los Angeles, being one of the two members who completed their term; in 1852, he visited Europe; and in September, 1855, he was elected Sheriff of the County, bringing to his aid the practical experience of a Ranger. Before keeping store, Alexander had farmed for awhile on the Rincon <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:; he continued to hold a large extent of acreage and in 1872 was granted a patent to over four thousand acres in the Providencia, and in 1874 to nearly seventeen thousand acres in the Tejunga <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The Hazards arrived in 1853 with a large family Of children, Captain A. M. Hazard having made his way with ox-teams from the East, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm: Salt Lake, on a journey which consumed nearly two years. At first they took up a claim about four miles from Los Angeles, which was later declared Government land. The eldest son, Daniel, was employed by Banning as a teamster, traveling between Los Angeles and Yuma; but later he set up in the teaming business for himself. George W. Hazard became a dealer in saddlery in Requena Street; and taking an active interest in the early history of Los Angeles, he collected, at personal sacrifice, souvenirs of the past, and this collection has become one of the few original sources available for research.<ANCHOR ID="n6-4">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: In 1889, Henry T. Hazard, after having served the City as its Attorney, was elected Mayor, his administration being marked by no little progress in the town's growth and expansion. Henry, who married a daughter of Dr. William Geller, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-4">George Hard died on February 8th, 1914.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Sam Meyer, who met me, as related, when I alighted from the stage, was another resident of Los Angeles prior to my coming. He had journeyed from Germany to America in 1849, had spent four years in New Orleans, Macon, and other Southern cities, and early in 1853 had come to California.  On Main Street, south of Requena, I found him, with Hilliard Loewenstein, in the dry goods business, an undertaking they continued until 1856, when Loewenstein returned to Germany, to marry a sister of Meyer.  Emanuel Loewenstein, one of the issue of this marriage, and a jolly, charitable fellow, is well known about town.  On December 15th, 1861, Meyer married Miss Johanna,<ANCHOR ID="n6-5">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-5">Mrs. Meyer died on September 4th, 1914.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Baruch Marks, one of the very few people yet living who were here when I arrived, is now about ninety-one years of age, and still<ANCHOR ID="n6-6">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: a resident of Los Angeles.  He was with Louis Schlesinger (who lost his life when the <HI REND="italics">Ada Hancock</HI>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-6">Marks died on July 9th, 1914.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>In 1851, Herman Schlesinger reached Los Angeles and engaged in the dry goods business with Tobias Sherwinsky. In 1855, Moritz Schlesinger, Herman's brother, came here and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Collins Wadhams had a general store on the northeast corner of Main and Commercial streets--a piece of property afterward bought by Charlie Ducommun.  At another time, Wadhams &amp; Foster were general merchants who, succeeding to the business of Foster &amp; McDougal, were soon followed by Douglass, Foster &amp; Wadhams.  Clerking for this firm when I came was William W. Jenkins, who left for Arizona, years afterward, where he led an adventurous life.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henry G. Yarrow, often called <HI REND="italics">Cuatro Ojos </HI>
023.sgm: or four eyes, from the fact that he wore a pair of big spectacles on a large hooked nose, was an eccentric character of the fifties and later. He once conducted a store at the southwest corner of Los Angeles and Requena streets, and was the Jevne of his day in so far as he dealt in superior and exceptional commodities generally not found in any other store.  In other respects, however, the comparison fails; for he kept the untidiest place in town, and his stock was fearfully jumbled together, necessitating an indefinite search for every article demanded.  The store was a little low room in an adobe building about twenty feet long and ten feet wide, with another room in the rear where Yarrow cooked and slept. He was also a mysterious person, and nobody ever saw the inside of this room.  His clothes were of the commonest material; he was polite and apparently well-bred; yet he never went anywhere for social intercourse, nor did he wish anyone to call upon him except for trade.  Aside from the barest necessities, he was never known to spend any money, and so he came to be regarded as a miser. One morning he was found dead in his store, and for some time thereafter people dug in his backyard searching for the earnings believed to have been secreted there; but not a cent of his horde was ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Charles Hale, later associated with M. W. Childs, had a tin-shop just where Steams's Arcadia Block now stands.  This shop stood on elevated ground, making his place of business rather difficult of access; from which the reader will gain some idea of the irregular appearance of the landscape in early days. Hale in time went to Mexico, where he was reported to have made a fortune.</P>
023.sgm:<P>August Ulyard arrived with his wife on the last day of December, 1852, and rented a house near the Plaza. In competition with Joseph Lelong, who had established his Jenny Lind bakery a couple of years previous, Ulyard opened a bake-shop, making his first bread from yeast which Mrs. Ulyard had brought with her across the Plains. There had been nothing but French bread in Los Angeles up to that time, but Ulyard began to introduce both German and American bread and cake, which soon found favor with many; later he added freshly-baked crackers. After a while, he moved to the site of the Natick House, at the southwest comer of Main and First streets; and once he owned the southwest corner of Fifth and Spring streets, on which the Alexandria Hotel now stands. Having no children of their own, Ulyard and his wife adopted first one and then another, until eventually they had a family of seven!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Picturing these unpretentious stores, I recall a custom long prevalent here among the native population. Just as in Mexico a little lump of sugar called a <HI REND="italics">pilon</HI>
023.sgm:, or something equally insignificant, was given with even the smallest purchase, so here some trifle, called a <HI REND="italics">pilon</HI>
023.sgm:, was thrown in to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Among the meat-handlers, there were several Sentous brothers, but those with whom I was more intimately acquainted were Jean and Louis, father of Louis Sentous the present French Consul, both of whom, if I mistake not, came about the middle of the fifties.  They engaged in the sheep business; and later Louis had a packing-house of considerable importance located between Los Angeles and Santa Monica, where he also Owned over a thousand acres of valuable land which he sold some time before his death.  They were very successful; and Sentous Street bears their name.  Jean died in 1903, and Louis a few years later.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ref&uacute;gio Botello was another wholesale cattle- and meat-dealer.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Arthur McKenzie Dodson, who came here in 1850 and later married Miss Reyes, daughter of Nas&aacute;rio Dominguez, conducted a butcher shop and one of the first grocery stores.  He was also the first to make soap here. For a while Dodson was in partnership with John Benner who, during a quarter of a century when in business for himself, in the old Temple adobe on Main Street, built up an important trade in the handling of meat.  James H. Dodson is Arthur's son.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santiago Bollo also kept a small grocery.</P>
023.sgm:<P>"Hog" Bennett was here in the middle fifties.  He raised and killed hogs, and cured the ham and bacon which he sold to neighboring dealers.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Possessed as he was of an unusual sense of rectitude, I esteemed Francisco Solano, father of Alfredo Solano, for his many good qualities.  He was in the butcher business in Sonora Town, and was prosperous in the early fifties.</P>
023.sgm:<P>An odd little store was that of Madame Salandie, who came to California in 1849, on the same vessel that brought Lorenzo Leck.  She had a butcher shop; but, rather curiously, she was also a money-lender.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I believe that Jack Yates was here in 1853. He owned the first general laundry, located on Los Angeles Street between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>More than once, in recording these fragmentary recollections, I have had occasion to refer to persons who, at one time or another, were employed in a very different manner than in a later period of their lives.  The truth is that in the early days one's occupation did not weigh much in the balance, provided only that he was honorable and a good citizen; and pursuits lowly to-day were then engaged in by excellent men.  Many of the vocations of standing were unknown, in fact, fifty or sixty years ago; and refined and educated gentlemen often turned their attention to what are now considered humble occupations.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII<LB>IN AND NEAR THE OLD PUEBLO<LB>1853</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>ABOUT the time when I arrived, Assessor Ant&oacute;nio F. Coronel reported an increase in the City and County assessment of over eight hundred and five thousand dollars, but the number of stores was really limited, and the amount of business involved was in proportion. The community was like a village; and such was the provincial character of the town that, instead of indicating the location of a store or office by a number, the advertiser more frequently used such a phrase as "opposite the Bella Union," "near the Express Office," or " <HI REND="italics">vis-&agrave;-vis</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Possibly because of this uncertainty as to headquarters, merchants were indifferent toward many advertising aids considered to-day rather essential. When I began business in Los Angeles, most of the storekeepers contented themselves with signs rudely lettered or painted on unbleached cloth, and nailed on the outside of the adobe walls of their shops.  Later, their signs were on bleached cloth and secured in frames without glass. In 1865, we had a painted wooden sign; and still later, many establishments boasted of letters in gold on the glass doors and windows. So too, when I first came here, merchants wrote thee own billheads and often did not take the trouble to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>People were also not as particular about keeping their places of business open all day.  Proprietors would sometimes close their stores and go out for an hour or two for their meals, or to meet in a friendly game of billiards.  During the monotonous days when but little business was being transacted, it was not uncommon for merchants to visit back and forth and to spend hours at a time in playing cards. To provide a substitute for a table, the window sill of the thick adobe was used, the visitor seating himself on a box or barrel on the outside, while the host within at the window would make himself equally comfortable.  Without particularizing, it is safe to state that the majority of early traders indulged in such methods of killing time.  During this period of miserably lighted thoroughfares, and before the arrival of many American families, those who did not play cards and billiards in the saloons met at night at each other's stores where, on an improvised table, they indulged in a little game of draw.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Artisans, too, were among the pioneers. William H. Perry, a carpenter by trade, came to Los Angeles on February 1st, 1853, bringing with him, and setting up here, the first stationary steam engine. In May, 1855, seeing an opportunity to expand, he persuaded Ira. Gilchrist to form a partnership with him under the name of W. H. Perry &amp; Company.  A brief month later, however  so quickly did enterprises evolve in early Los Angeles-Perry gave up carpentering and joined James D. Brady in the furniture business. Their location was on Main Street between Arcadia and the Plaza. They continued together several years, until Wallace Woodworth--one of Tom Mott's horsemen who went out to avenge the death of Sheriff Barton--bought out Brady's interest, when the firm became Perry &amp; Woodworth.  They prospered and grew in importance, their speciality being inside cabinet-work; and on September 6th, 1861, they established a lumber yard in town, with the first regular saw- and planing-mills seen here.  They then manufactured beehives, furniture and upholstery, and contracted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Nels Williamson, a native of Maine and a clever fellow, was another carpenter who was here when I arrived. He had come across the Plains from New Orleans in 1852 as one of a party of twenty.  In the neighborhood of El Paso de &Aacute;guila they were all ambushed by Indians, and eighteen members of the party were killed; Williamson, and Dick Johnson, afterward a resident of Los Angeles, being the two that escaped.  On a visit to Kern County, Nels was shot by a hunter who mistook him for a bear; the result of which was that he was badly crippled for life.  So long as he lived--and he approached ninety years--Nels, like many old-timers, was horribly profane.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henri Penelon, a fresco-painter, was here in 1853, and was recognized as a decorator of some merit. When the old Plaza Church was renovated, he added some ornamental touches to it. At a later period, he was a photographer as well as a painter.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Among the blacksmiths then in Los Angeles was a well-known German, John Goller, who conducted his trade in his own shop, occupying about one hundred feet on Los Angeles Street where the Los Angeles Saddlery Company is now located. Goller was an emigrant who came by way of the Salt Lake route, and who, when he set up as the pioneer blacksmith and wagon-maker, was supplied by Louis Wilhart, who had a tannery on the west side of the river, with both tools and customers.   When Goller arrived, ironworkers were scarce, and he was able to command pretty much his own prices. He charged sixteen dollars for shoeing a horse and used to laugh as he told how he received nearly five hundred dollars <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:for his part in rigging up the awning in front of a neighboring house.  When, in 1851, the Court of Sessions ordered the Sheriff to see that fifty lances were made for the volunteer Rangers, Goller secured the contract.  Another commission which he filled was the making for the County of a three-inch branding-iron with the letters, L.  <HI REND="italics">A</HI>
023.sgm:.  There being little iron in stock, Goller bought up old wagon-tires cast away on the plains, and converted them into various utensils, including even horse-shoes. As an early wagon-maker he had rather a discouraging experience, his first wagon remaining on his hands a good while: the natives looked upon it with inquisitive distrust and still clung to their heavy <HI REND="italics">carretas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I have stated that no care was given to either the streets or sidewalks, and a daily evidence of this was the confusion iii the neighborhood of John's shop, which, together with his yard, was one of the sights of the little town because the blacksmith had strewn the footway, and even part of the road, with all kinds of piled-up material; to say nothing of a lot of horses invariably waiting there to be shod.  The result was that passers-by were obliged to make a detour into the often muddy street to get around and past Goller's premises.</P>
023.sgm:<P>John Ward was an Angele&ntilde;o who knew something of the transition from heavy to lighter vehicles.  He was born in Virginia and took part in the Battle of New Orleans.  In the thirties he went to Santa F&eacute;, in one of the earliest prairie schooners to that point; thence he came to Los Angeles for a temporary stay, making the trip in the first carriage ever brought to the Coast from a Yankee workshop.  In 1849, he returned for permanent residence; and here he died in 1859.</P>
023.sgm:<P>D. Anderson, whose daughter married Jerry Newell, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Carriages were very scarce in California at the time of my arrival, although there were a few, Don Abel Stearns possessing the only private vehicle in Los Angeles; and transportation was almost entirely by means of saddle-horses, or the native, capacious <HI REND="italics">carretas</HI>
023.sgm:.  These consisted of a heavy platform, four or five by eight or ten feet in size, mounted on two large, solid wheels, sawed out of logs, and were exceedingly primitive in appearance, although the owners sometimes decorated them elaborately; while the wheels moved on coarse, wooden axles, affording the traveler more jounce than restful ride.  The <HI REND="italics">carretas</HI>
023.sgm: served, indeed, for nearly all the carrying business that was done between the <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>This sharp squeaking of the <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
023.sgm:, however, while penetrating and disagreeable in the extreme, served a purpose, after all, as the signal that a buyer was approaching town; for the vehicle was likely to have on board one or even two good-sized families of women and children, and the keenest expectation of our little business world was consequently aroused, bringing merchants and clerks to the front of their stores.  A couple of oxen, by means of ropes attached to their horns, pulled the <HI REND="italics">carretas</HI>
023.sgm:, while the men accompanied their families on horseback; and as the roving oxen were inclined to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:leave the road, one of the riders (wielding a long, pointed stick) was kept busy moving from side to side, prodding the wandering animals and thus holding them to the highway.  Following these <HI REND="italics">carretas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Some of the <HI REND="italics">carretas</HI>
023.sgm: had awnings and other tasteful trimmings, and those who could afford it spent a great deal of money on saddles and bridles. Each <HI REND="italics">caballero</HI>
023.sgm: was supplied with a <HI REND="italics">reata</HI>
023.sgm: (sometimes locally misspelled <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
023.sgm: ) or leather rope, one end of which was tied around the neck of the horse while the other-coiled and tied to the saddle when not in use-was held by the horseman when he went into a house or store; for hitching posts were unknown, with the natural result that there were many runaways.  When necessary, the <HI REND="italics">reata</HI>
023.sgm:<P>As I have remarked, Don Abel Stearns owned the first carriage in town; it was a strong, but rather light and graceful vehicle, with a closed top, which he had imported from Boston in 1853, to please Do&ntilde;a Arcadia, it was said. However that may be, it was pronounced by Don Abel's neighbors the same dismal failure, considering the work it would be called upon to perform under California conditions, as these wiseacres later estimated the product of John Goller's carriage shop to be. Speaking of Goller, reminds me that John Schumacher gave him an order to build a spring wagon with a cover, in which he might take his family riding.  It was only a one-horse affair, but probably because of the springs and the top which afforded protection from both the sun and the rain, it was looked upon as a curiosity.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It is interesting to note, in passing, that John H. Jones, who was brought from Boston as a coachman by Henry Mellus--while Mrs. Jones came as a seamstress for Mrs. Mellus--and who for years drove for Abel Stearns, left a very large estate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Mrs. Fr&eacute;mont, the General's wife, also owned one of the first carriages in California. It was built to order in the East and sent around the Horn; and was constructed so that it could be fitted up as a bed, thus enabling the distinguished lady and her daughter to camp whenever night might overtake them.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shoemakers had a hard time establishing themselves in Los Angeles in the fifties. A German shoemaker--perhaps I should say a <HI REND="italics">Schuhmachermeister</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In connection with shoemakers and their lack of patronage, I am reminded of the different foot gear worn by nearly every man and boy in the first quarter of a century after my arrival, and the way they were handled.  Then shoes were seldom used, although clumsy  brogans were occasionally in demand. Boots were almost exclusively worn by the male population, those designed for boys usually being tipped with copper at the toes. A dozen pair, of different sizes, came in a case, and often a careful search was required through several boxes to find just the size needed. At such times, the dealer would fish out one pair after another, tossing them carelessly on the floor; and as each case contained odd sizes that had proven unsalable, the none too patient and sometimes irascible merchant had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Well out in the country, where the Capitol Milling Company's plant now stands, and perhaps as successor to a still earlier mill built there by an Englishman, Joseph Chapman (who married into the Ortega family--since become famous through &eacute;mile C. Ortega who, in 1898, successfully began preserving California chilis),--was a small mill, run by water, known as the Eagle Mills. This was owned at different times by Abel Stearns, Francis Mellus and J. R. Scott, and conducted, from 1855 to 1868, by John Turner, who came here for that purpose, and whose son, William, with Fred Lambourn later managed the grocery store of Lambourn &amp; Turner on Aliso Street.  The miller made poor flour indeed; though probably it was quite equal to that produced by Henry Dalton at the Azusa, John Rowland at the Puente, Michael White at San Gabriel, and the Theodore brothers at their Old Mill in Los Angeles. The quantity of wheat raised in Southern California was exceedingly small, and whenever the raw material became exhausted, Turner's supply of flour gave out, and this indispensable commodity was then procured from San Francisco. Turner, who was a large-hearted man and helpful to his fellows, died in 1878.  In the seventies, the mill was sold to J. D. Deming, and by him to J. Loew, who still controls the corporation, the activity of which has grown with the city.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Half a year before my coming to Los Angeles, or in April, 1853, nearly twenty-five thousand square miles had been lopped off from Los Angeles County, to create the County of San Bernardino; and yet in that short time the Mormons, who had established themselves there in 1851 as a colony on a tract of land purchased from Diego Sep&uacute;lveda and the three Lugos--Jos&eacute; del Carmen, Mar&iacute;a and Vicente--and consisting of about thirty-five thousand acres, had quite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:succeeded in their agricultural and other ventures.  Copying somewhat the plan of Salt Lake City, they laid out a town a mile square, with right-angled blocks of eight acres and irrigating <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>But two towns broke the monotony of a trip between Los Angeles and San Bernardino, and they were San Gabriel Mission and El Monte.  I need not remind my readers that the former place, the oldest and quaintest settlement in the county, was founded by Father Junipero Serra and his associates in 1771, and that thence radiated all of their operations in this neighborhood; nor that, in spite of all the sacrifice and human effort, matters with this beautifully-situated Mission were in a precarious condition for several decades. It may be less known, however, that the Mission Fathers excelled in the cultivation of citrus fruits, and that their chief competitors, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:1853, were William Wolfskill and Louis Vignes, who were also raising seedling oranges of a very good quality. The population of San Gabriel was then principally Indian and Mexican, although there were a few whites dwelling some distance away. Among these, J. S. Mallard, afterward Justice of the Peace and father of the present City Assessor, Walter Mallard, carried on a small business; and Mrs. Laura Cecelia Evertsen--mother-in-law of an old pioneer, Andrew J. King, whose wife is the talented daughter, Mrs. Laura Evertsen King-also had a store there.  Still another early storekeeper at the quaint settlement was Max Lazard, nephew of Solomon Lazard, who later went back to France.  Another pioneer to settle near the San Gabriel River was Louis Phillips, a native of Germany who reached California in 1850, by way of Louisiana, and for a while did business in a little store on the Long Wharf at San Francisco. Then he came to Los Angeles, where he engaged in trade; in 1853, he bought land on which, for ten years or until he removed to Spadra (where Mrs. Phillips still survives him), he tilled the soil and raised stock. The previous year, Hugo Reid, of whom I often heard my neighbors speak in a complimentary way, had died at San Gabriel where he had lived and worked.  Reid was a cultured Scotchman who, though born in the British Isles, had a part, as a member of the convention, in making the first Constitution for California. He married an Indian woman and, in his leisure hours, studied the Indians on the mainland and Catalina, contributing to the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>This Indian wife of the scholarly Reid reminds me of Nathan Tuch, who came here in 1853, having formerly lived in Cleveland where he lost his first wife.  He was thoroughly honest, very quiet and genteel, and of an affectionate disposition.  Coming to California and San Gabriel, he opened a little store; and there he soon married a full-blooded squaw. Notwithstanding, however, the difference in their stations and the fact that she was uneducated, Tuch always remained faithful to her, and treated her with every mark of respect.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>THIS STORE BELONGS TO NATHAN TUCH,</P>
023.sgm:<P>NOW 73 YEARS OLD.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When he died, his wife permitted his burial in the Jewish Cemetery.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Michael White was another pioneer, who divided his time between San Gabriel and the neighborhood that came to be known as San Bernardino, near which he had the <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cyrus Burdick was still another settler who, after leaving Iowa with his father and other relatives in December, 1853, stopped for a while at San Gabriel. Soon young Burdick went to Oregon; but, being dissatisfied, he returned to the Mission and engaged in farming. In 1855, he was elected Constable; a year later, he opened a store at San Gabriel, which he conducted for eight or nine years.  Subsequently, the Burdicks lived in Los Angeles, at the corner of First and Fort streets on the site of the present Tajo Building. They also owned the northeast corner of Second and Spring streets.  This property became the possession of Fred Eaton, through his marriage to Miss Helen L. Burdick.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fielding W. Gibson came early in the fifties. He had bought at Sonora, Mexico, some five hundred and fifty head of cattle, but his <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
023.sgm:<P>El Monte--a name by some thought to refer to the adjacent mountains, but actually alluding to the dense willow forests then surrounding the hamlet--the oldest American settlement in the county, was inhabited by a party of mixed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>David Lewis, a Supervisor of 1855, crossed the continent to the San Gabriel Valley in 1851, marrying there, in the following year, a daughter of the innkeeper Ira Thompson, just referred to.  Thompson was a typical Vermonter and a good, popular fellow, who long kept the Overland Stage station. Sometime in the late fifties, Lewis was a pioneer in the growing of hops. Jonathan Tibbets, who settled at El Monte the year that I came to Los Angeles, had so prospered by 1871 that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. Obed Macy, father of Mrs. Sam Foy, came to Los Angeles from the Island of Nantucket, where he was born, by way of Indiana, in which State he had practiced medicine, arriving in Southern California about 1850 and settling in El Monte. He moved to Los Angeles, a year later, and bought the Bella Union from Winston &amp; Hodges; where were opened the Alameda Baths, on the site of the building later erected by his son Oscar. There Dr. Macy died on July 9th, 1857. Oscar, a printer on the <HI REND="italics">Southern Californian</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The San Fernando and San Juan Capistrano missions, and Agua Caliente, were the only other settlements in Los Angeles County then; the former, famous by 1854 for its olives, passing into history both through the activity of the Mission Fathers and also the renowned set-to between Micheltorena and Castro when, after hours of cannonading and grotesque swinging of the would-be terrifying <HI REND="italics">reata</HI>
023.sgm:, the total of the dead was-- <HI REND="italics">a single mule</HI>
023.sgm:!  Then, or somewhat subsequently, General Andr&eacute;s Pico began to occupy what was the most pretentious adobe in the State, formerly the abode of the <HI REND="italics">padres--a</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1853, there was but one newspaper in the city--a weekly known as <HI REND="italics">La Estrella de los Angeles</HI>
023.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">The Los Angeles Star</HI>
023.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:printed half in Spanish, half in English.  It was founded on May 17th, 1851, by John A. Lewis and John McElroy, who had their printing office in the lower room of a small wooden house on Los Angeles Street, near the corral of the Bella Union hotel. This firm later became Lewis, McElroy &amp; Rand.  There was then no telegraphic communication with the outside world, and the news ordinarily conveyed by the sheet was anything but important. Indeed, all such information was known, each week, by the handful of citizens in the little town long before the paper was published, and delays in getting mail from a distance--in one case the post from San Francisco to Los Angeles being under way no less than fifty-two days!--led to Lewis giving up the editorship in disgust. When a steamer arrived, some little news found its way into the paper; but even then matters of national and international moment became known in Los Angeles only after the lapse of a month or so.  The admission of California to the Union in 1850, for example, was first reported on the Coast six weeks after Congress had voted in California's favor; while in 1852, the deaths of Clay and Webster were not known in the West until more than a month after they had occurred.  This was a slight improvement, however, over the conditions in 1841 when (it used to be said) no one west of the Rockies knew of President Harrison's demise until over three months and a half after he was buried! Our first Los Angeles newspaper was really more of an advertising medium than anything else, and the printing outfit was decidedly primitive, though the printers may not have been as badly off as were the typos of the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
023.sgm:.  The latter, using type picked up in a Mexican cloister, found no W's among the Spanish letters and had to set double V's until more type was brought from the Cannibal or Sandwich Islands! Which reminds me of Jos&eacute; de la Rosa, born in Los Angeles about 1790, and the first journeyman to set type in California, who died over one hundred years old. But if the <HI REND="italics">Estrella</HI>
023.sgm: made a poor showing as a newspaper, I have no doubt that, to add to the editor's misfortunes, the advertising rates were so low that his entire income was but small.  In 1854, the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm: and its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<HI REND="italics">imprenta</HI>
023.sgm:, as it was then styled, were sold to a company organized by James S. Waite, who, a year later, was appointed Postmaster of the city. Speaking of the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:, I should add that one of its first printers was Charles Meyrs Jenkins, later City <HI REND="italics">Zanjero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The Post Office, too, at this time, was far from being an important institution. It was located in an adobe building on Los Angeles, between Commercial and Arcadia streets, and Dr. William B. Osburn, sometimes known as Osbourn--who came to California from New York in 1847, in Colonel Stevenson's regiment, and who had established a drug store, such as it was, in 1850--had just been appointed Postmaster. A man who in his time played many parts, Osburn had half a dozen other irons in the fire besides politics (including the interests of a floral nursery and an auction room), and as the Postmaster was generally away from his office, citizens desiring their mail would help themselves out of a soap box--subdivided like a pigeon house, each compartment being marked with a letter; and in this way the city's mail was distributed! Indifferent as Dr. Osburn was to the postmastership (which, of course, could not have paid enough to command anyone's exclusive services), he was rather a clever fellow and, somewhat naturally perhaps for a student of chemistry, is said to have made as early as August 9th, 1851, (and in connection with one Moses Searles, a pioneer house and sign painter) the first daguerreotype photographs produced in Los Angeles. For two years or more, Dr. Osburn remained Postmaster, resigning his office on November 1st, 1855.  While he was a notary public, he had an office in Keller's Building on Los Angeles Street. J. H. Blond was another notary; he had an office opposite the Bella Union on Main Street. Osburn died in Los Angeles on July 31st, 1867.</P>
023.sgm:<P>No sooner had I arrived in San Francisco, than I became aware of the excitement incidental to the search for gold, and on reaching Los Angeles, I found symptoms of the same fever. That year, as a matter of fact, recorded the highest output of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:gold, something like sixty-five million dollars' worth being mined; and it was not many months before all was bustle in and about our little city, many people coming and going, and comparatively few wishing to settle, at least until they had first tried their luck with the pick and pan. Not even the discovery of gold in the San Feliciano Ca&ntilde;on, near Newhall, in the early forties--for I believe the claim is made that Southern Californians, while searching for wild onions, had the honor of digging out, in the despised "cow-counties," the first lump of the coveted metal--had set the natives so agog; so that while the rush to the mines claimed many who might otherwise have become permanent residents, it added but little to the prosperity of the town, and it is no wonder that, for a while, the local newspapers refused to give events the notice which they deserved. To be sure, certain me-chants-among them dealers in tinware, hardware and groceries, and those who catered especially to miners, carrying such articles as gold-washers, canteens and camp-outfits--increased their trade; but many prospective gold-seekers, on their way to distant diggings, waited until they got nearer the scene of their adventures before buying tools and supplies, when they often exhausted their purses in paying the exorbitant prices which were asked.  Barring the success of Francisco Garcia who used gangs of Indians and secured in the one year 1855 over sixty thousand dollars' worth of gold--one nugget being nearly two thousand dollars in value--the placer gold-mining carried on in the San Gabriel and San Francisquito <HI REND="italics">ca&ntilde;ons</HI>
023.sgm: was on the whole unimportant, and what gold-dust was produced at these points came to Los Angeles without much profit to the toiling miners; so that it may be safely stated that cattle- and horse-raising, of which I shall speak in more detail, were Southern California's principal sources of income. As for the gold dust secured, San Francisco was the clearing-house for the Coast, and all of the dust ultimately found its way there until sometime later Sacramento developed and became a competitor. Coming, as I did, from a part of the world where gold dust was never seen, at least by the layman, this sudden introduction to sacks and bottles full of the fascinating <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII<LB>ROUND ABOUT THE PLAZA<LB>1853-1854</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>AT the time of my arrival, the Plaza, long the nucleus of the original settlement, was the center of life in the little community, and around it clustered the homes of many of those who were uppermost in the social scale, although some of the descendants of the finest Spanish families were living in other parts of the city. This was particularly so in the case of Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s Sep&uacute;lveda, who had a beautiful old adobe on some acreage that he owned northwest of Sonora Town, near the place where he constructed a stone reservoir to supply his house with water. Opposite the old Plaza Church dwelt a number of families of position and, for the most part, of wealth--in many cases the patrons of less fortunate or dependent ones, who lived nearby. The environment was not beautiful, a solitary pepper, somewhat north of the Plaza, being the only shade-tree there; yet the `general character of the homes was somewhat aristocratic, the landscape not yet having been seriously disturbed by any utilitarian project such as that of the City Fathers who, by later granting a part of the old square for a prosaic water tank, created a greater rumpus than had the combative soldiers some years before.  The Plaza was shaped much as it is at present, having been reduced considerably, but five or six years earlier, by the Mexican authorities: they had planned to improve its shape, but had finished their labors by contracting the object before them.   There was no sign of a park; on the contrary, parts of the Plaza itself, which had suffered the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Among the distinguished citizens of Los Angeles whose residences added to the social prestige of the neighborhood was Don Ygn&aacute;cio Del Valle, father of R. F. Del Valle. Until 1861, he resided on the east side of the square, in a house between Calle de los Negros and Olvera Street, receiving there his intimate friends as well as those who wished to pay him their respects when he was <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Not far from Del Valle's--that is, back of the later site of the Pico House, between the future Sanchez Street and Calle de los Negros--lived Don Pio Pico, then and long after a striking figure, not merely-on account of his fame as the last of the Mexican governors, but as well because of his physique and personality.  I may add that as long as he lived, or at least until the tide of his fortune turned and he was forced to sell his most treasured personal effects, he invariably adorned himself with massive jewelry of much value; and as a further conceit, he frequently wore on his bosom Mexican decorations that had been bestowed upon him for past official services. Don Pio really preferred country life at the <HI REND="italics">Ranchito</HI>
023.sgm:, as his place was called; but official duties and, later, illness and the need of medical care, kept him in town for months at a time. He had three sisters, two of whom married in succession Jos&eacute; Ant&oacute;nio Carrillo, another resident at the Plaza and the then owner of the site of the future Pico House; while the third was the wife of Don Juan Forster, in whose comfortable home Don Pio found a retreat when distressing poverty overtook him in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The Beau Brummel of Los Angeles in the early fifties was Don Vicente Lugo, whose wardrobe was made up exclusively of the fanciest patterns of Mexican type; his home, one of the few two-story houses in the pueblo, was close to Ygn&aacute;cio Del Valle's.  Lugo, a brother of Don Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a, was one of the heavy taxpayers of his time; as late as 1860, he had herds of twenty-five hundred head of cattle, or half a thousand more than Pio and Andr&eacute;s Pico together owned.  Mar&iacute;a Ballestero, Lugo's mother-in-law, lived near him.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Don Agustin Olvera dwelt almost opposite Don Vicente Lugo's, on the north side of the Plaza, at the corner of the street perpetuating his name.  Don Agustin arrived from Mexico, where he had been <HI REND="italics">Juez de Paz</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Francisco O'Campo was another man of means whose home was on the east side of the Plaza. Although he was also a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:member of the new <HI REND="italics">Ayuntamiento</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Don Crist&oacute;bal Aguilar, several times in his career an <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A short distance from the Plaza, on Olvera Street, had long stood the home of Don Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a &Aacute;bila, who was killed in battle in the early thirties.  It was there that Commodore Stockton made his headquarters, and the story of how this was brought about is one of the entertaining incidents of this warlike period.  The widow &Aacute;bila, who had scant love for the Americans, had fled with her daughters to the home of Don Luis<ANCHOR ID="n8-7">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-7">Often spoken of as Don Louis.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Francisca Gallardo, daughter of one of the Sep&uacute;lvedas, lived in the vicinity of the Plaza.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The only church in Los Angeles at this time was that of <HI REND="italics">Nuestra Se&ntilde;ora la Reyna de los Angeles</HI>
023.sgm:, known as Our Lady, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Had Edgar Allan Poe lived in early Los Angeles, he might well have added to his poem one more stanza about these old church bells, whose sweet chimes, penetrating the peace and quiet of the sleepy village, not alone summoned the devout to early mass or announced the time of vespers, but as well called many a merchant to his day's labor and dismissed him to his home or the evening's rendezvous. That was a time of sentiment and romance, and the memory of it lingers pleasantly in contrast with the rush and bustle of to-day, when cold and chronometrical exactitude, instead of a careless but, in its time, sufficient measure of the hours, arranged the order of our comings and our goings.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Incidental to the ceremonial activity of the old Church on the Plaza, the <HI REND="italics">Corpus Christi</HI>
023.sgm: festival was one of the events of the year when not the least imposing feature was the opening procession around the Plaza.  For all these occasions, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>These midwinter festivities remind me that, on Christmas Eve, the young people here performed pastoral plays. It was the custom, much as it still is in Upper Bavaria, to call at the homes of various friends and acquaintances and, after giving little performances such as <HI REND="italics">Los Pastores</HI>
023.sgm:, to pass on to the next house.  A number of the Apostles and other characters associated with the life of Jesus were portrayed, and the Devil, who scared half to death the little children of the hamlet, was never overlooked.  The <HI REND="italics">bu&ntilde;uelo</HI>
023.sgm:<P>And now a word about the old Spanish Missions in this vicinity.  It was no new experience for me to see religious edifices that had attained great age, and this feature, therefore, made no special impression.  I dare say that I visited the Mission of San Gabriel very soon after I arrived in Los Angeles; but it was then less than a century old, and so was important only because it was the place of worship of many natives. The Protestant denominations were not as numerous then as now, and nearly all of the population was Catholic.  With the passing of the years, sentimental reverence for the Spanish Fathers has grown greater and their old Mission homes have acquired more and more the dignity of age.  Helen Hunt Jackson's <HI REND="italics">Ramona</HI>
023.sgm:, John S. McGroarty's <HI REND="italics">Mission Play</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">John Jones</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Captain F. Morton</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Captain and Mrs. J. S. Garcia</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Captain Salisbury Haley</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">El Palacio, Home of Abel and Arcadia Stearns</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The Lugo Ranch-house, in the Nineties</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:(in which, by the by, Se&ntilde;orita Lucretia, daughter of R. F. and granddaughter of Don Ygn&aacute;cio Del Valle, so.ably portrays the character of <HI REND="italics">Do&ntilde;a Josefa Yorba</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The missions and their chapels recall an old Mexican woman who had her home, when I came to Los Angeles, at what is now the southeast corner of San Pedro and First streets.  She dwelt in a typical adobe, and in the rear of her house was a vineyard of attractive aspect. Adjoining one of the rooms of her dwelling was a chapel, large enough, perhaps, to hold ten or twelve people and somewhat like those on the Dominguez and Coronel estates; and this chapel, like all the other rooms, had an earthen floor. In it was a gaudily-decorated altar and crucifix. The old lady was very religious and frequently repaired to her sanctuary. From the sale of grapes, she derived, in part, her income; and many a time have I bought from her the privilege of wandering through her vineyard and eating all I could of this refreshing berry.  If the grape-season was not on, neighbors were none the less always welcome there; and it was in this quiet and delightful retreat that, in 1856, I proposed marriage to Miss Sarah Newmark, my future wife, such a mere girl that a few evenings later I found her at home playing jackstones--then a popular game--with Mrs. J. G. Downey, herself a child.</P>
023.sgm:<P>But while Catholics predominated, the Protestant churches had made a beginning.  Rev. Adam Bland, Presiding Elder of the Methodists in Los Angeles in 1854, had come here a couple of years before, to begin his work in the good, old-fashioned way; and, having bought the barroom, El Dorado, and torn down Hughes's sign, he had transformed the place into a chapel. But, alas for human foresight, or the lack of it: on at least a part of the new church lot, the Merced Theater later stood!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Two cemeteries were in existence at the time whereof I write: the Roman Catholic  abandoned a few years age which occupied a site on Buena Vista Street, and one, now long deserted, for other denominations.  This cemetery, which we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>As for my co-religionists and their provision of a cemetery, when I first came to Los Angeles they were without a definite place for the interment of their dead; but in 1854 the first steps were taken to establish a Jewish cemetery here, and it was not very long before the first Jewish child to die in Los Angeles, named Mahler, was buried there.  This cemetery, on land once owned and occupied by Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s Sep&uacute;lveda's reservoir, was beautifully located in a recess or little pocket, as it were, among the hills in the northwest section of the city, where the environment of nature was in perfect harmony with the Jewish ideal--" Home of Peace."</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mrs. Jacob Rich, by the way, had the distinction of being the first Jewess to settle in Los Angeles; and I am under the impression that Mrs. E. Greenbaum became the mother of the first Jewish child born here.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sam Prager arrived in 1854, and after clerking a while, associated himself with the Morrises, who were just getting nicely established.  For a time, they met with much success and were among the most important merchants of their day. Finally they dissolved, and the Morris Brothers bought the large tract of land which I have elsewhere described as having been refused by Newmark, Kremer &amp; Company in liquidation of Major Henry Hancock's account.  Here, for several years, in a fine old adobe lived the Morris family, dispensing a bountiful hospitality quite in keeping with the openhanded manner of the times.  In the seventies, the Morris Brothers sold this property--later known as Morris Vineyard -after they had planted it to vines, for the insignificant sum of about twenty thousand dollars.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Following Sam Prager, came his brother Charles.  For a short time they were associated, but afterward they operated independently, Charles Prager starting on Commercial Street, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:on May 19th, 1869.  Sam Prager, long known as "Uncle Sam," was a good-natured and benevolent man, taking a deep interest in Masonic matters, becoming Master of 42, and a regular attendant at the annual meetings of the Grand Lodge of California.  He was also Chairman of the Masonic Board of Relief until the time of his death.  Charles Prager and the Morrises have all gone to that <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>undiscovered country, from whose bourn<LB>No traveler returns.</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the summer of 1853, a movement was inaugurated, through the combined efforts of Mayors Nichols and Coronel, aided by John T. Jones, to provide public schools; and three citizens, J. Lancaster Brent, Lewis Granger and Stephen C. Foster, were appointed School Commissioners.  As early as 1838, Ygn&aacute;cio Coronel, assisted by his wife and daughter, had accepted some fifteen dollars a month from the authorities--to permit the exercise of official supervision--and opened a school which, as late as 1854, he conducted in his own home; thereby doubtless inspiring his son Antonio to take marked interest in the education of the Indians.  From time to time, private schools, partly subsidized from public funds, were commenced. In May, 1854, Mayor Foster pointed out that, while there were fully five hundred children of school age and the pueblo had three thousand dollars surplus, there was still no school building which the City could call its own. New trustees--Manuel Requena, Francis Mellus and W. T. B. Sanford--were elected; and then happened what, perhaps, has not occurred here since, or ever in any other California town: Foster, still Mayor, was also chosen School Superintendent.  The new energy put into the movement now led the Board to build, late in 1854 or early in 1855, a two-story brick schoolhouse, known as School No. 1, on the northwest corner of Spring and Second streets, on the lot later occupied, first by the old City Hall and secondly by the Bryson Block. This structure cost six thousand dollars.  Strange as it now seems, the location was then rather "out in the country;" and I dare say the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>One of the early school-teachers was the pioneer, James F. Burns. Coming with an emigrant train in 1853, Burns arrived in Los Angeles, after some adventures with the Indians near what was later the scene of the Mountain Meadow Massacre, in November of the same year. Having been trained in Kalamazoo, Michigan, as a teacher, Burns settled, in 1854, in San Gabriel; and there with C&aelig;sar C. Twitchell, he conducted a cross-roads school in a tent.  Later, while still living at San Gabriel, Burns was elected County School Superintendent.   Before reaching here--that is, at Provo, Utah, on September 25th--the young schoolmaster had married Miss Lucretia Burdick, aunt of Fred Eaton's first wife.  Burns, though of small stature, became one of the fighting sheriffs of the County.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Among others who conducted schools in Los Angeles or vicinity, in the early days, were Mrs. Adam Bland, wife of the missionary; H. D. Barrows and the Hoyts.  Mrs. Bland taught ten or twelve poor girls, in 1853, for which the Common Council allowed her about thirty-five dollars.  Barrows was one of several teachers employed by William Wolfskill at various times, and at Wolfskill's school not merely were his own children instructed but those of the neighboring families of Carpenter, Rowland and Pleasants as well.  Mrs. Gertrude Lawrence Hoyt was an Episcopal clergyman's wife from New York who, being made a widow, followed her son, Albert H.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Hoyt, to Los Angeles in 1853.  Young Hoyt, a graduate of Rutgers College and a teacher excited by the gold fever, joined a hundred and twenty men who chartered the bark <HI REND="italics">Clarissa Perkins</HI>
023.sgm:<P>As undeveloped as the pueblo was, Los Angeles boasted, in her very infancy, a number of physicians, although there were few, if any, Spanish or Mexican practitioners.  In 1850, Drs. William B. Osburn, W. W. Jones, A. W. Hope, A. P. Hodges and a Dr. Overstreet were here; while in 1851, Drs. Thomas Foster, John Brinckerhoff and James P. McFarland followed, to be re&euml;nforced, in 1852, by Dr. James B. Winston and, soon after, by Drs. R. T. Hayes, T. J. White and A. B. Hayward. Dr. John Strother Griffin (General Albert Sidney Johnston's brother-in-law and the accepted suitor of Miss Louisa Hayes) came to Los Angeles in 1848, or rather to San Gabriel-where, according to Hugo Reid, no physician had settled, though the population took drugs by the barrel; being the ranking surgeon under Kearney and Stockton when, on January 8th, they drove back the Mexican forces.  He was also one of the hosts to young W. T. Sherman.  Not until 1854, however, after Griffin had returned to Washington and had resigned his commission, did he actually settle in Los Angeles. Thereafter, his participation in local affairs was such that, very properly, one of our avenues is named after him.  Dr. Richard S. Den antedated all of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. Richard S. Den, an Irishman of culture and refinement, having been for awhile with his brother, Nicholas Den, in Santa B&aacute;rbara, returned to Los Angeles in 1851.  I say, "returned," because Den had looked in on the little pueblo before I had even heard its name.  While in the former place, in the winter of 1843-44, Den received a call from Los Angeles to perform one or two surgical operations, and here he practiced until drawn to the mines by the gold excitement.  He served, in 1846-47, as Chief Physician and Surgeon of the Mexican forces during the Mexican War, and treated, among others, the famous American Consul Larkin, whose surety he became when Larkin was removed to better quarters in the home of Louis Vignes. Den had only indifferent luck as a miner, but was soon in such demand to relieve the sufferers from malaria that it is said he received as much as a thousand dollars in a day for his practice.  In 1854, he returned to Santa B&aacute;rbara County, remaining there for several years and suffering great loss, on account of the drought and its effects on his cattle.  Nicholas Den, who was also known in Los Angeles, and was esteemed for both his integrity and his hospitality, died at Santa B&aacute;rbara in 1862.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Old Dr. Den will be remembered, not only with esteem, but with affection.  He was seldom seen except on horseback, in which fashion he visited his patients, and was, all in all, somewhat a man of mystery.  He rode a magnificent coal-black charger, and was himself always dressed in black.  He wore, too, a black felt hat; and beneath the hat there clustered a mass of wavy hair as white as snow.  In addition to all this, his standing collar was so high that he was compelled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. Osburn, the Postmaster of 1853, had two years before installed a small variety of drugs on a few shelves, referred to by the complimentary term of drug store.  Dr. Winston also kept a stock of drugs.  About the same time, and before Dr. A. W. Hope opened the third drug store in September, 1854, John Gately Downey, an Irishman by birth, who had been apprenticed to the drug trade in Maryland and Ohio, formed a partnership with James P. McFarland, a native of Tennessee, buying some of Winston's stock.  Their store was a long, one-story adobe on the northwest corner of Los Angeles and Commercial streets, and was known as McFarland &amp; Downey's. The former had been a gold-miner; and this experience intensified the impression of an already rugged physique as a frontier type. Entering politics, as Osburn and practically every other professional man then did  doubtless as much as anything else for the assurance of some definite income--McFarland secured a seat in the Assembly in 1852, and in the Senate in 1853-54.  About 1858, he returned to Tennessee and in December, 1860, revisited California; after which he settled permanently in the East.  Downey, in 1859, having been elected  Lieutenant-Governor,  was later made Governor, through the election of Latham to the United States Senate; but his suddenly-revealed sympathies with the Secessionists, together with his advocacy of a bill for the apprenticing of Indians, contributed toward killing him politically and he retired to private life. Dr. H. R. Myles, destined to meet with a tragic death in a steamboat disaster which I shall narrate, was another druggist, with a partner, Dr. J. C. Welch, a South <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of druggists, it may be interesting to add that medicines were administered in earlier days to a much greater extent than now.  For every little ailment there was a pill, a powder or some other nostrum.  The early <HI REND="italics">botica</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The practice of surgery was also very primitive; and he was unfortunate, indeed, who required such service.  Operations had to be performed at home; there were few or none of the modern scientific appliances or devices for either rendering the patient immune or contending with active disease.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Preceded by a brother, Colonel James C. Foy--who visited California in 1850 and was killed in 1864, while in Sherman's army, by the bursting of a shell--Samuel C. Foy started for San Francisco, by way of New Orleans and the Isthmus, when he was but twenty-two years old and, allured by the gold-fever, wasted a year or two in the mines. In January, 1854, he made his way south to Los Angeles; and seeing the prospect for trade in harness, on February 19th of that year opened an American saddlery, in which business he was joined by his brother, John M. Foy. Their store was on Main Street, between Commercial and Requena. The location was one of the best; and the Foy Brothers offering, besides saddlery, such necessities of the times as tents, enjoyed one of the first chances to sell to passing emigrants and neighboring <HI REND="italics">rancheros, as</HI>
023.sgm: they came into town. Some spurs, exhibited in the County Museum, are a souvenir of Foy's enterprise in those pioneer days. In May, 1856, Sam Foy began operating in cattle and continued in that business <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the course of time, the Foys moved to Los Angeles Street, becoming my neighbors; and while there, in 1882, S. C. Foy, in a quaint advertisement embellished with a blanketed horse, announced his establishment as the "oldest business house in Los Angeles, still at the old stand, 17 Los Angeles Street, next to H. Newmark &amp; Company's." John Foy, who later removed to San Bernardino, died many years ago, and Sam Foy also has long since joined the silent majority; but one of the old signs of the saddlery is still to be seen on Los Angeles Street, where the son, James Calvert Foy, conducts the business. The Foys first lived on Los Angeles Street, and then on Main.  Some years later, they moved to the corner of Seventh and Pearl streets, now called Figueroa, and came to control much valuable land there, still ill possession of the family. A daughter of Samuel C. Foy is Miss Mary Foy, formerly a teacher and later Public Librarian.  Another daughter married Thomas Lee Woolwine, the attorney.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wells Fargo &amp; Company-formerly always styled Wells, Fargo &amp; Company-were early in the field here.  On March 28th, 1854, they were advertising, through H. R. Myles, their agent, that they were a joint stock company with a capital of five hundred thousand dollars!</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX<LB>FAMILIAR HOME-SCENES<LB>1854</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>MANY of the houses, as I have related, were clustered around and north of the Plaza Church, while the hills surrounding the pueblo to the West were almost bare. These same hills have since been subdivided and graded to accommodate the Westlake, the Wilshire, the West Temple and other sections.  Main and Spring streets were laid out beyond First, but they were very sparsely settled; while to the East of Main and extending up to that street, there were many large vineyards without a single break as far south as the Ninth Street of to-day, unless we except a narrow and short lane there. To enable the reader to form an accurate impression Of the time spent in getting to a nearby point, I will add that, to reach William Wolfskill's home, which was in the neighborhood of the present Arcade Depot, one was obliged to travel down to Aliso Street, thence to Alameda, and then south on Alameda to Wolfskill's orchard. From Spring Street, west and as far as the coast, there was one huge field, practically unimproved and undeveloped, the swamp lands of which were covered with tules. All of this land, from the heart of the present retail district to the city limits, belonged to the municipality. I incline to the opinion that both Ord and Hancock had already surveyed in this southwestern district; but through there, nevertheless, no single street had as yet been cut.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Not merely at the Plaza, but throughout Los Angeles, most <illus entity="a023-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">J. P. Newmark</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Jacob Rich</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">O. W. Childs</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">John O. Wheeler</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Benjamin D. Wilson</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">George Hansen</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Dr. Obed Macy</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Samuel C. Foy</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:of the houses were built of adobe, or mud mixed with straw and dried for months in the sun; and several fine dwellings of this kind were constructed after I came.  The composition was of such a nature that, unless protected by roofs and verandas,<ANCHOR ID="n9-8">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: the mud would slowly wash away. The walls, however, also requiring months in which to dry, were generally three or four feet thick; and to this as well as to the nature of the material may be attributed the fact that the houses in the summer season were cool and comfortable, while in winter they were warm and cheerful.  They were usually rectangular in shape, and were invariably provided with <HI REND="italics">patios</HI>
023.sgm: and corridors. There was no such thing as a basement under a house, and floors were frequently earthen. Conventionality prescribed no limit as to the number of rooms, an adobe frequently having a sitting-room, a dining-room, a kitchen and as many bedrooms as were required; but there were few, if any, "frills" for the mere sake of style.  Most adobes were but one story in height, although there were a few two-story houses; and it is my recollection that, in such cases, the second story was reached from the outside. Everything about an adobe was emblematic of hospitality: the doors, heavy and often apparently home-made, were wide, and the windows were deep.  In private houses, the doors were locked with a key; but in some of the stores, they were fastened with a bolt fitted into iron receptacles on either side.  The windows, swinging on hinges, opened inward and were locked in the center. There were few curtains or blinds; wooden shutters, an inch thick, also fastening in the center, being generally used instead.  If there were such conveniences as hearths and fireplaces, I cannot recollect them, although I think that here and there the <HI REND="italics">brasero</HI>
023.sgm:, or pan and hot coals, was still employed.  There were no chimneys, and the smoke, as from the kitchen stove, escaped through the regular stacks leading out through a pane in the window or a hole in the wall. The porches, also spoken of as verandas and rather wide, were supported by equidistant perpendicular posts; and when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-8">Verandas, spoken of locally as corridors; from which fact I may use both terms interchangeably.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>The roofs which, as I have intimated, proved as necessary to preserve the adobe as to afford protection from the semitropical sun, were generally covered with asphalt and were usually flat in order to keep the tar from running off.  As well as I can recollect, Vicente Salsido--or Salcito, as his name was also written--who lived in or somewhere near Nigger Alley, was the only man then engaged in the business of mending pitch-roofs.  When winter approached  and the first rainfall produced leaks, there was a general demand for Salsido's services and a great scramble among owners of buildings to obtain them.  Such was the need, in fact, that more than one family, drowned out while waiting, was compelled to move to the drier quarters of relatives or friends, there to stay until the roofer could attend to their own houses.  Under a huge kettle, put up in the public street, Salsido set fire to some wood, threw in his pitch and melted it.  Then, after he or a helper had climbed onto the roof, the molten pitch was hauled up in buckets and poured over the troublesome leaks.  Much of this tar was imported from the North, but some was obtained in this locality, particularly from so-called springs on the Hancock ranch, which for a long time have furnished great quantities of the useful, if unattractive, substance.  This asphalt was later used for sidewalks, and even into the eighties was employed as fuel.  To return to Salsido, I might add that in summer the pitch-roofer had no work at all.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Besides the adobes with their asphalt roofs, some houses, erected within the first quarter of the Nineteenth Century, were covered with tiles.  The most notable tiled building was the old Church, whose roof was unfortunately removed when the edifice was so extensively renovated.  The Carrillo home was topped with these ancient tiles, as were also Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a &Aacute;bila's residence; Vicente Sanchez's two-story adobe south of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>It was my impression that there were no bricks in Los Angeles when I first came, although about 1854 or 1855 Jacob Weixel had the first regular brickyard.  In conversation with old-timers, however, many years ago, I was assured that Captain Jesse Hunter, whom I recall, had built a kiln not far from the later site of the Potomac Block, on Fort Street, between Second and Third; and that, as early as 1853, he had put up a brick building on the west side of Main Street, about one hundred and fifty feet south of the present site of the Bullard Block.  This was for Mayor Nichols, who paid Hunter thirty dollars a thousand for the new and more attractive kind of building material.  This pioneer brick building has long since disappeared.  Hunter seems to have come to Los Angeles alone, and to have been followed across the plains by his wife, two sons and three daughters, taking up his permanent residence here in 1856.  One of the daughters married a man named Burke, who conducted a blacksmith and wagon shop in Hunter's Building on Main Street.  Hunter died in 1874. Dr. William A. Hammel, father of Sheriff William Hammel, who came to California during the gold excitement of `49, had one of the first red brick houses in Los Angeles, on San Pedro Street, between Second and Third.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in 1853, or perhaps in 1854, the first building erected by the public in Los Angeles County was put together here of brick baked in the second kiln ever fired in the city. It was the Town Jail on the site of the present Phillips Block,<ANCHOR ID="n9-9">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-9">Recently razed.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Zanja</HI>
023.sgm: water was being used for irrigation when I arrived. A system of seven or eight <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm:, or open ditches-originated, I have no doubt, by the Catholic Fathers-was then in operation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:although it was not placed under the supervision of a <HI REND="italics"> Zanjero</HI>
023.sgm:, or Water Commissioner, until 1854. These small surface canals connected at the source with the <HI REND="italics">zanja madre</HI>
023.sgm:, or mother ditch, on the north side of the town, from which they received their supply; the <HI REND="italics">zanja madre</HI>
023.sgm: itself being fed from the river, at a point a long way from town.  The <HI REND="italics">Zanjero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Water for domestic uses was a still more expensive luxury. Inhabitants living in the immediate neighborhood of <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Bill obtained his supply from the Los Angeles River, where at best it was none too clean, in part owing to the frequent passage of the river by man and beast. Animals of all kinds, including cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, mules and donkeys, crossed and recrossed the stream continually, so that the mud was incessantly stirred up, and the polluted product proved unpalatable and even, undoubtedly, unhealthful.  To make matters worse, the river and the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm: were the favorite bathing-places, all the urchins of the hamlet disporting themselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:there daily, while most of the adults, also, frequently immersed themselves.  Both the yet unbridged stream and the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm:, therefore, were repeatedly contaminated, although common sense should have protected the former to a greater or less extent; while as to the latter there were ordinances drawn up by the Common Council of 1850 which prohibited the throwing of filth into fresh water designed for common use, and also forbade the washing of clothes on the <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Besides Bill the Waterman, Dan Schieck was a water-vender, but at a somewhat later date.  Proceeding to the <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Just one more reference to the drinking-water of that period.  When delivered to the customer, it was emptied into <HI REND="italics">ollas</HI>
023.sgm:, or urn-shaped vessels, made from burned clay or terra cotta.  Every family and every store was provided with at least one of these containers which, being slightly porous, possessed the virtue (of particular value at a time when there was no ice) of keeping the water cool and refreshing. The <HI REND="italics">olla</HI>
023.sgm: commonly in use had a capacity of four or five gallons, and was usually suspended from the ceiling of a porch or other convenient place; while attached to this domestic reservoir, as a rule, was a long-handled dipper generally made from a gourd. Filters were not in use, in consequence of which fastidious people washed out their <HI REND="italics">ollas</HI>
023.sgm: very frequently.  These wide-mouthed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:pots recall to me an appetizing Spanish dish, known as <HI REND="italics">olla-podrida</HI>
023.sgm:, a stew consisting of various spiced meats, chopped fine, and an equally varied assortment of vegetables, partaken of separately; all  bringing to  mind, perhaps, Thackeray's sentimental <HI REND="italics">Ballad of Bouillabaisse</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On May 16th, 1854, the first Masonic lodge--then and now known as 42--received its charter, having worked under special dispensation since the preceding December.   The first officers chosen were: H. P. Dorsey, Master; J. Elias, Senior Warden; Thomas Foster, Junior Warden; James R. Barton, Treasurer; Timothy Foster, Secretary; Jacob Rich, Senior Deacon; and W. A. Smith, Tyler.</P>
023.sgm:<P>For about three decades after my arrival, smallpox epidemics visited us somewhat regularly every other year, and the effect on the town was exceedingly bad. The whole population was on such a friendly footing that every death made a very great impression.  The native element was always averse to vaccination and other sanitary measures; everybody objected to isolation, and disinfecting was unknown. In more than one familiar case, the surviving members of a stricken family went into the homes of their kinsmen, notwithstanding the danger of contagion. Is it any wonder, therefore, when such ignorance was universal, that the pest spread alarmingly and that the death-rate was high?</P>
023.sgm:<P>The smallpox wagon, dubbed the <HI REND="italics">Black Maria</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>This matter of primitive sanitation reminds me of an experience.  To accommodate an old iron bath-tub that I wished to set up in my Main Street home in the late sixties, I was obliged to select one of the bedrooms; since, when my adobe was built, the idea of having a separate bathroom in a house had never occurred to any owner.  I connected it with the <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
023.sgm:<P>It was fortunate indeed that the adobe construction of the fifties rendered houses practically fireproof since, in the absence of a water-system, a bucket-brigade was all there was to fight a fire with, and this rendered but poor service. I remember such a brigade at work, some years after I came, in the vicinity of the Bell Block, when a chain of helpers formed a relay from the nearest <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
023.sgm: to the blazing structure.  Buckets were passed briskly along, from person to person, as in the animated scene described by Schiller in the well-known lines of <HI REND="italics">Das Lied von der Glocke:</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Durch der H&auml;nde lange Kette<LB>Urn die Wette<LB>Fliegt der Eimer;</HI>
023.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n9-10">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-10">Translated by Perry Worden for the centenary of <HI REND="italics">The Song of the Bell:</HI>
023.sgm: <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Through each hand close-joined and waiting,<LB>Emulating,<LB>Flies the pail.</HI>
023.sgm:<P>a process which was continued until the fire had exhausted itself.  Francis Mellus had a little hand-cart, but for lack of water it was generally useless.  Instead of fire-bells announcing to the people that a conflagration was in progress, the discharging of pistols in rapid succession gave the alarm and was the signal for a general fusillade throughout the neighboring streets. Indeed, this method of sounding a fire-alarm was used as late <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On account of the inadequate facilities for extinguishing anything like a conflagration, it transpired that insurance companies would not for some time accept risks in Los Angeles. If I am not mistaken, S. Lazard obtained the first protection late in the fifties and paid a premium of four per cent.  The policy was issued by the Hamburg-Bremen Company, through Adelsdorfer Brothers of San Francisco, who also imported foreign merchandise; and Lazard, thereafter, as the Los Angeles agent for the Hamburg-Bremen Company, was the first insurance underwriter here of whom I have any knowledge. Adelsdorfer Brothers, it is also interesting to note, imported the first Swedish matches brought into California, perhaps having in mind cause and effect with profit at both ends; they put them on the retail market in Los Angeles at twenty-five cents a package.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This matter of fires calls to mind an interesting feature of the city when I first saw it. When Henry, or Enrique Dalton sailed from England, he shipped a couple of corrugated iron buildings, taking them to South America where he used them for several years.  On coming to Los Angeles, he brought the buildings with him, and they were set up at the site of the present corner of Spring and Court streets.  In a sense, therefore, these much-transported iron structures (one of which, in 1858, I rented as a storeroom for wool) came to be among the earliest "fire-proof" buildings here.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As early as 1854, the need of better communication between Los Angeles and the outside world was beginning to be felt; and in the summer of that year the Supervisors--D. W. Alexander, S. C. Foster, J. Sep&uacute;lveda, C. Aguilar and S. S. Thompson--voted to spend one thousand dollars to open a wagon road over the mountains between the San Fernando Mission and the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:.  A rather broad trail already existed there; but such was its grade that many a pioneer, compelled to use a windlass or other contrivance to let <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>During 1854, Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark and family, whom I had met, the year before, for a few hours in San Francisco, arrived here and located in the one-story adobe owned by John Goller and adjoining his blacksmith shop. There were six children--Matilda, Myer J., Sarah, Edward, Caroline and Harriet--all of whom had been born in New York City.  With their advent, my personal environment immediately changed: they provided me with a congenial home; and as they at once began to take part in local social activities, I soon became well acquainted. My aunt took charge of my English education, and taught me to spell, read and write in that language; and I have always held her efforts in my behalf in grateful appreciation.  As a matter of fact, having so early been thrown into contact with Spanish-speaking neighbors and patrons, I learned Spanish before I acquired English.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Newmarks had left New York on December 15th, 1852, on the ship <HI REND="italics">Carrington</HI>
023.sgm:, T. B. French commanding, to make the trip around the Horn, San Francisco being their destination. After a voyage for the most part pleasant, although not altogether free from disagreeable features and marked by much rough weather, they reached the Golden Gate, having been four months and five days on the ocean.  One of the enjoyable incidents <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
023.sgm: was an old-fashioned celebration in which <HI REND="italics">Neptune</HI>
023.sgm: took part when they crossed the equator. In a diary of that voyage kept by Myer J. Newmark, mention is made that "our Democratic President, Franklin Pierce, and Vice-President, William R. King, were inaugurated March 4th, 1853;" which reminds me that some forty years later Judge H. A. Pierce, the President's cousin, and his wife who was of literary proclivities, came to be my neighbors in Los Angeles.  Mr. and Mrs. Newmark and their family remained in San Francisco until 1854.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Kiln Messer was another pioneer who came around the Horn about that time, although he arrived here from Germany a year later than I did; and during his voyage, he had a trying experience in a shipwreck off Cape Verde where, with his comrades, he had to wait a couple of months before another vessel could be signaled.  Even then he could get no farther toward his destination--the Golden Gate--than Rio de Janeiro, where he was delayed five or six months more.  Finally reaching San Francisco, he took to mining; but, weakened by fever (an experience common among the gold-seekers), he made his way to Los Angeles. After brewing beer for a while at the corner of Third and Main streets, Messer bought a twenty-acre vineyard which, in 1857, he increased by another purchase to forty-five or fifty acres; and it was his good fortune that this property was so located as to be needed by the Santa F&eacute; Railroad, in 1888, as a terminal.  Toward the end of the seventies, Messer, moderately well-to-do, was a grocer at the corner of Rose and First streets; and about 1885, he retired.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Joseph Newmark brought with him to Los Angeles a Chinese servant, to whom he paid one hundred dollars a month; and, as far as I know, this Mongolian was the first to come to our city. This domestic item has additional interest, perhaps, because it was but five or six years before that the first Chinese to emigrate from the Celestial Kingdom to California--two men and a lone woman--had come to San Francisco in the ship <HI REND="italics">Eagle</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The housekeeping experiences of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark remind me that it was not easy in the early days to get satisfactory domestic service. Indians, negroes and sometimes Mexicans were employed, until the arrival of more Chinese and the coming of white girls.  Joseph Newmark, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:when I lived with his family, employed, in addition to the Chinaman, an Indian named Pedro who had come with his wife from Temecula and whose remuneration was fifty cents a day; and these servants attended to most of the household duties.  The annual <HI REND="italics">fiesta</HI>
023.sgm:<P>My new home was very congenial, not the least of its attractions being the family associations at meal-time.  The opportunities for obtaining a variety of food were not as good perhaps as they are to-day, and yet some delicacies were more in evidence.  Among these I might mention wild game and chickens. Turkeys, of all poultry, were the scarcest and most-prized. All in all, our ordinary fare has not changed so much except in the use of mutton, certain vegetables, ice and a few dainties.</P>
023.sgm:<P>There was no extravagance in the furnishing of pioneer homes.  Few people coming to Los Angeles expected to locate permanently; they usually planned to accumulate a small competency and then return to their native heaths.  In consequence, little attention was paid to quality or styles, and it is hard to convey a comprehensive idea of the prevailing lack of ordinary comforts.  For many years the inner walls of adobes were whitewashed--a method of mural finish not the most agreeable, since the coating so easily "came off;" and only in the later periods of frame houses, did we have kalsomined and hard-finished wall surfaces.  Just when papered and tinted walls came in, I do not remember; but they were long delayed. Furniture was plain and none too plentiful; and glassware and tableware were of an inferior grade.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Certain vegetables were abundant, truck-gardening having been introduced here in the early fifties by Andrew Briswalter, an Alsatian by birth and an original character.  He first operated on San Pedro Street, where he rented a tract of land and peddled his vegetables in a wheelbarrow, charging big prices. So quickly did he prosper that he was soon able to buy a piece of land, as well as a horse and wagon. When he died, in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>One Mumus was in the field nearly as soon as Briswalter. A few years later, Chinese vegetable men came to monopolize this trade. Most of their gardens neighbored on what is now Figueroa Street, north of Pico; and then, as now, they peddled their wares from wagons.  Wild celery grew in quantities around the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>These Chinese vegetable gardeners, by the way, came to practice a trick<ANCHOR ID="n9-11">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: designed to reduce their expenses, and at which they were sometimes caught. Having bargained with the authorities for a small quantity of water, they would cut the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm:, while the <HI REND="italics">Zanjero</HI>
023.sgm: or his assistants slept, steal the additional water needed, and, before the arrival of the <HI REND="italics">Zanjero</HI>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-11">History repeats itself: in 1915, ranchers at Zelzah were accused of appropriating water from the new aqueduct, under cover of the night, without paying for it.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>J. Wesley Potts was an early arrival, having tramped across the Plains all the way from Texas, in 1852, reaching Los Angeles in September. At first, he could obtain nothing to do but haul dirt in a hand-cart for the spasmodic patching-up of the streets; but when he had earned five or six dollars in that way, he took to peddling fruit, first carrying it around in a basket.  Then he had a fruit stand.  Getting the gold-fever, however, Potts went to the mines; but despairing at last of realizing anything there, he returned to Los Angeles and raised vegetables, introducing, among other things, the first locally-grown sweet potatoes put on the market--a stroke of enterprise recalling J. E. Pleasants's early venture in cultivating garden pease. Later he was widely known as a "weather prophet"--with predictions quite as likely to be worthless as to come true.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The prickly pear, the fruit of the cactus, was common in early Los Angeles. It grew in profusion all over this Southern country, but particularly so around San Gabriel at which place it was found in almost obstructing quantities; and prickly pears bordered the gardens of the Round House where they were plucked by visitors. Ugly enough things to handle, they were, nevertheless, full of juice, and proved refreshing and palatable when properly peeled. Pomegranates and quinces were also numerous, but they were not cultivated for the trade.  Sycamore and oak trees were seen here and there, while the willow was evident in almost jungle profuseness, especially around river banks and along the borders of lanes. Wild mustard charmingly variegated the landscape and <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
023.sgm: obscured many of the hills and rising ground.  In winter, the ground was thickly covered with burr-clover and the poetically-named <HI REND="italics">alfilaria</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Writing of vegetables and fruit, I naturally think of one of California's most popular products, the <HI REND="italics">sand&iacute;a</HI>
023.sgm: or watermelon, and of its plenteousness in those more monotonous days when many and many a <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
023.sgm: load was brought to the indulging town.  The melons were sold direct from the vehicles, as well as in stores, and the street seemed to be the principal place for the consumption of the luscious fruit.  It was a very common sight to see Indians and others sitting along the roads, their faces <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Fish, caught at San Pedro and peddled around town, was a favorite item of food during the cooler months of the year. The <HI REND="italics">pescadero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Somewhere I have seen it stated that, in 1854, O. W. Childs brought the first hive of bees from San Francisco at a cost of one hundred and fifty dollars; but as nearly as I can recollect, a man named Logan owned the first beehives and was, therefore, the pioneer honey-producer.  I remember paying him three dollars for a three-pound box of comb-honey, but I have forgotten the date of the transaction. In 1860, Cyrus Burdick purchased several swarms of bees and had no difficulty in selling the honey at one dollar a pound.  By the fall of 1861, the bee industry had so expanded that Perry &amp; Woodworth, as I have stated, devoted part of their time to the making of beehives.  J. E. Pleasants, of Santiago Ca&ntilde;on, known also for his Cashmere goats, was another pioneer bee-man and received a gold medal for his exhibit at the New Orleans Exposition.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X<LB>EARLY SOCIAL LIFE<LB>1854</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>IN June, 1854, my brother sold out, and I determined to establish myself in business and thus become my own master.  My lack of knowledge of English was somewhat of a handicap; but youth and energy were in my favor,and an eager desire to succeed overcame all obstacles. Upon computing my worldly possessions, I found that I had saved nearly two hundred and forty dollars, the sum total of my eight months' wages; and this sum I invested in my first venture. My brother, J. P. Newmark, opened a credit for me, which contributed materially to my success; and I rented the store on the north side of Commercial Street, about one hundred feet west of Los Angeles, owned by Mateo Keller and just vacated by Prudent Beaudry.  Little did I think, in so doing, that, twelve years later, some Nemesis would cause Beaudry to sell out to me.  I fully realized the importance of succeeding in my initial effort, and this requited me for seven months of sacrifices, until January 1st, 1855, when I took an inventory and found a net profit of fifteen hundred dollars. To give some idea of what was then required to attain such success, I may say that, having no assistance at all, I was absolutely a prisoner from early morning until late in the evening--the usual hour of closing, as I have elsewhere explained, being eight o'clock.  From sweeping out to keeping books, I attended to all my own work; and since I neither wished to go out and lock up nor leave my stock long unprotected, I remained <illus entity="a023-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Myer J. and Harris Newmark</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">George Carson</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">John G. Nichols</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">David W. Alexander</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Thomas E. Rowan</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Matthew Keller</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Samuel Meyer</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Business conditions in the fifties were necessarily very different from what they are to-day.  There was no bank in Los Angeles for some years, although Downey and one or two others may have had some kind of a safe.  People generally hoarded their cash in deep, narrow buckskin bags, hiding it behind merchandise on the shelves until the departure of a steamer for San Francisco, or turning it into such vouchers as were negotiable and could be obtained here.  John Temple, who had a ranch or two in the North (from which he sent cattle to his agent in San Francisco), generally had a large reserve of cash to his credit with butchers or bankers in the Northern city, and he was thus able to issue drafts against his balances there; being glad enough to make the exchange, free of cost. When, however, Temple had exhausted his cash, the would-be remitter was compelled to send the coin itself by express.  He would then take the specie to the company's agent; and the latter, in his presence, would do it up in a sealed package and charge one dollar a hundred for safe transmission. No wonder, therefore, that people found expressing coin somewhat expensive, and were more partial to the other method.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the beginning of the fifties, too, silver was irregular in supply.  Nevada's treasures still lay undiscovered within the bowels of the earth, and much foreign coin was in use here, leading the shrewdest operators to import silver money from France, Spain, Mexico and other countries.  The size of coins, rather than their intrinsic value, was then the standard.  For example, a five-franc piece, a Mexican dollar or a coin of similar size from any other country passed for a dollar here; while a Mexican twenty-five-cent piece, worth but fourteen cents, was accepted for an American quarter, so that these importers did a "land-office" business.  Half-dollars and their equivalents were very scarce; and these coins being in great demand among gamblers, it often happened that they would absorb the supply.  This forced such a premium that eighteen dollars in silver would commonly bring twenty dollars in gold.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Most of the output of the mines of Southern California--then rated as the best dust--went to San Francisco assayers, who minted it into octagonal and round pieces known as slugs. Among those issuing privately-stamped coins were J. S. Ormsby (whose mark, <HI REND="italics">J. S. O.</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Usurers were here from the beginning, and their tax was often ruinously exorbitant. So much did they charge for money, in fact, that from two to twelve and a half per cent.  <HI REND="italics">a week</HI>
023.sgm:<P>For at least twenty years after I arrived in Los Angeles, the credit system was so irregular as to be no system at all. Land and other values were exceedingly low, there was not much ready money, and while the credit of a large rancher was small compared with what his rating would be to-day because of the tremendous advances in land and stock, much longer time was then given on running accounts than would be allowed now. Bills were generally settled after the harvest.  The wine-grower would pay his score when the grape crop was sold; and the cattleman would liquidate what he could when he sold his cattle.  In other words, there was no credit foundation whatever; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>It is true, also, that many a fine property was lost through the mania of the Californian for gambling, and it might be just as well to add that the loose credit system ruined many. I believe, in fact, it is generally recognized in certain lines of business that the too flexible local fiscal practice of to-day is the descendant of the careless methods of the past.</P>
023.sgm:<P>My early experiences as a merchant afforded me a good opportunity to observe the character and peculiarities of the people with whom I had to deal. In those days a disposition to steal was a common weakness on the part of many, especially Indians, and merchants generally suffered so much from the evil that a sharp lookout had to be kept. On one occasion, I saw a native woman deftly abstract a pair of shoes and cleverly secrete them on her person; and at the conclusion of her purchases, as she was about to leave the store, I stepped up to her, and with a " <HI REND="italics">­Dispense me Vd.</HI>
023.sgm:! quietly recovered the <HI REND="italics">zapatos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>This proneness to steal was frequently utilized by early and astute traders, who kept on hand a stock of very cheap but gaudy jewelry which was placed on the counter within easy reach--a device which prevented the filching of more valuable articles, while it attracted, at the same time, this class of customers; and as soon as the esteemed customers ceased to buy, the trays of tempting trinkets were removed.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shyness of the truth was another characteristic of many a native that often had to be reckoned with by merchants wishing to accommodate, as far as possible, while avoiding loss. One day in 1854, a middle-aged Indian related to me that his mother (who was living half a block north on Main Street, and was between eighty and ninety years of age) had suddenly died, and that he would like some candles, for which he was unable to pay, to place around the bed holding the remains of the departed.  I could not refuse this filial request, and straightway gave him the wax tapers which were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The fact that I used to order straw hats which came telescoped in dozens and were of the same pattern (in the crown of one of which, at the top, I found one morning a litter of kittens tenderly deposited there by the store cat), recalls an amusing incident showing the modesty of the times, at least in the style of ladies' bonnets.  S. Lazard &amp; Company once made an importation of Leghorn hats which, when they arrived, were found to be all trimmed alike--a bit of ribbon and a little bunch of artificial flowers in front being their only ornamentation! Practically, all the fair damsels and matrons of the town were limited, for the season, to this supply--a fact that was patent enough, a few days later, at a picnic held at Sainsevain's favorite vineyard and well patronized by the feminine leaders in our little world.</P>
023.sgm:<P>But to return to one or two pioneers.  David Workman died soon after he came here, in 1854, with his wife whose maiden name was Nancy Hook. He was a brother of William Workman and followed him to Los Angeles, bringing his three sons, Thomas H.--killed in the explosion of the <HI REND="italics">Ada Hancock</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Henry Mellus, brother of Francis Mellus, to whom I elsewhere more fully refer, who had returned to New England, was among us again in 1854.  Whether this was the occasion of Mellus's unfortunate investment, or not, I cannot say; but on one of his trips to the East, he lost a quarter of a million through an unlucky investment in iron.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jean B. Trudell (a nephew of Damien Marchessault and a cousin of P. Beaudry), for a short time in partnership with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>With the growth of our little town, newspapers increased, even though they did not exactly prosper.  On the 20th of July, 1854, C. N. Richards &amp; Company started the <HI REND="italics">Southern Californian</HI>
023.sgm:, a name no doubt suggested by that of the San Francisco journal, with William Butts as editor; and on November 2d, Colonel John O. Wheeler joined Butts and bought out Richards &amp; Company.  Their paper was printed in one of Dalton's corrugated iron houses. The <HI REND="italics">Southern Californian</HI>
023.sgm: was a four-page weekly, on one side of which news, editorials and advertisements, often mere translations of matter in the other columns, were published in Spanish. One result of the appearance of this paper was that Waite &amp; Company, a month or so later, reduced the subscription price of the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1853, a number of Spanish-American restaurant keepers plied their vocation, so that Mexican and Spanish cooking were always obtainable.  Then came the <HI REND="italics">cafeter&iacute;a</HI>
023.sgm:, but the term was used with a different significance from that now in vogue.  It was rather a place for drinking than for eating, and in this respect the name had little of the meaning current in parts of Mexico to-day, where a <HI REND="italics">cafeter&iacute;a</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The native population followed their own <HI REND="italics">cuisine</HI>
023.sgm:, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:visitor to Spanish-American homes naturally partook of native food. All the Mexican dishes that are common now, such as <HI REND="italics">tamales, enchiladas</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
023.sgm:, were favorite dishes then. There were many saloons in Sonora Town and elsewhere, and <HI REND="italics">mescal</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
023.sgm:, popular drinks with the Mexicans, were also indulged in by the first white settlers.  Although there were imported wines, the wine-drinkers generally patronized the local product.  This was a very cheap article, costing about fifteen cents a gallon, and was usually supplied with meals, without extra charge.  <HI REND="italics">Tamales</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">tortilla</HI>
023.sgm: was another favorite, being a generous-sized maize cake, round and rather thin, in the early preparation of which the grain was softened, cleaned and parboiled, after which it was rolled and crushed between two pieces of flat stone. Deft hands then worked the product into a pancake, which was placed, sometimes on a piece of stoneware, sometimes on a plate of iron, and baked, first on one side and then on the other. A part of the trick in tortilla-baking consisted in its delicate toasting; and when just the right degree of parching had been reached, the crisp, tasty <HI REND="italics">tortilla</HI>
023.sgm: was ready to maintain its position even against more pretentious members of the pancake family.  <HI REND="italics">Pan de huevos</HI>
023.sgm:, or bread of eggs, was peddled around town on little trays by Mexican women and, when well-prepared, was very palatable.  <HI REND="italics">Panocha</HI>
023.sgm:, a dark Mexican sugar made into cakes, was also vended by native women.  <HI REND="italics">Pinole</HI>
023.sgm: was brought in by Indians; and as far as I can remember, it could not have had a very exact meaning, since I have heard the term applied both to ground pinenuts and ground corn, and it may also have been used to mean other food prepared in the same manner. Be this as it may, the value to the Indian came from the fact that, when mixed with water, <HI REND="italics">pinole</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I have told of the old-fashioned, comfortable adobes, broad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:and liberal, whose halls, rooms, verandas and <HI REND="italics">patios</HI>
023.sgm: bespoke at least comfort if not elaborateness. Among the old California families dwelling within these houses, there was much visiting and entertainment, and I often partook of this proverbial and princely hospitality.  There was also much merrymaking, the firing of crackers, bell-ringing and dancing the <HI REND="italics">fandango, jota</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">cachucha</HI>
023.sgm: marking their jolly and whole-souled <HI REND="italics">fiestas</HI>
023.sgm:.  Only for the first few years after I came was the real <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
023.sgm: --so popular when Dana visited Los Angeles and first saw Don Juan Bandini execute the dance-witnessed here; little by little it went out of fashion, perhaps in part because of the skill required for its performance.  Balls and hops; however, for a long time were carelessly called by that name. When the <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
023.sgm: really was in vogue, Bandini, Ant&oacute;nio Coronel, Andr&eacute;s Pico, the Lugos and other native Californians were among its most noted exponents; they often hired a hall, gave a <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
023.sgm: in which they did not hesitate to take the leading parts, and turned the whole proceeds over to some church or charity.   On such occasions not merely the plain people (always so responsive to music and its accompanying pleasures) were the <HI REND="italics">fandangueros</HI>
023.sgm:, but the flower of our local society turned out <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
023.sgm:, adding to the affair a high degree of <HI REND="italics">&eacute;clat</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Still living are some who have memories of these old <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
023.sgm: days and the journeys taken from suburb to town in order to participate in them. Do&ntilde;a Petra Pilar Lanfranco used to tell me how, as a young girl, she came up from the old Palos Verdes ranch house in a <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
023.sgm: and was always chaperoned by a lady relative.  On such occasions, the <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
023.sgm: would be provided with mattresses, pillows and covers, while at the end, well strapped, was the trunk containing the finery to be worn at the ball. To reach town even from a point that would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>One of the pleasant features of a <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
023.sgm: or hop was the use of <HI REND="italics">cascarones</HI>
023.sgm:, or egg-shells, filled with one thing or another, agreeable when scattered, and for the time being sealed up. These shells were generally painted; and most often they contained many-colored pieces of paper, or the tinsel, <HI REND="italics">oropel</HI>
023.sgm:, cut up very fine.  Not infrequently the shell of the egg was filled with perfume; and in the days when Californians were flush, gold leaf or even gold dust was sometimes thus inclosed, with a wafer, and kept for the <HI REND="italics">casamiento</HI>
023.sgm:, when it would be showered upon the fortunate bride.  The greatest compliment that a gentleman could pay a lady was to break one of these <HI REND="italics">cascarones</HI>
023.sgm: over her head, and often the compliment would be returned; the floor, at the termination of such festivities, being literally covered with the bits of paper and egg-shell.  When the <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
023.sgm: was on in all its mad delight, a gentleman would approach a lady to salute her, upon which she would bow her head slightly and permit him, while he gently squeezed the egg-shell, to let its contents fall gracefully over her head, neck and shoulders; and very often she would cleverly choose the right moment--perhaps when he was not looking--to politely reciprocate the courtesy, under which circumstances he was in duty bound to detect, if he could, among the smiling, blushing ladies, the one who had ventured so agreeably to offend.  Such was the courtliness, in fact, among the native population that even at <HI REND="italics">fandangos</HI>
023.sgm:, in which the public participated and the compliment of the <HI REND="italics">cascaron</HI>
023.sgm: was almost universally observed, there was seldom a violation of regard for another's feelings. When such rowdyism did occur, however (prompted perhaps by jealousy), and bad eggs or that which was even less aromatic, were substituted, serious trouble ensued; and one or two fatalities are on record as growing out of such senseless acts.  Speaking of <HI REND="italics">fandangos</HI>
023.sgm:, it may be aded that in January, 1861, the Common Council of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The pueblo was so small in the fifties, and the number of white people so limited that, whenever a newcomer arrived, it caused considerable general excitement; and when it infrequently happened that persons of note came for even a single night, a deputation of prominent citizens made their short stay both noisy with cannonading and tiresome with spread-eagle oratory.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A very important individual in early days was Peter Biggs, or Nigger Pete, a pioneer barber who came here in 1852, having previously been sold as a slave to an officer at Fort Leavenworth and freed, in California, at the close of the Mexican War. He was a black-haired, good-natured man, then about forty years of age, and had a shop on Main Street, near the Bella Union.  He was, indeed, the only barber in town who catered to Americans, and while by no means of the highest tonsorial capacity, was sufficiently appreciative of his monopoly to charge fifty cents for shaving and seventy-five cents for haircutting. When, however, a Frenchman named Felix Signoret (whose daughter married Ed. McGinnis, the high-toned saloon keeper) appeared, some years later--a barber by trade, of whom we shall hear more later--it was not long before Pete was seriously embarrassed, being compelled, first to reduce his prices and then to look for more humble work.  In the early sixties, Pete was advertising as follows:</P>
023.sgm:<P>NEW ORLEANS SHAVING SALOON</P>
023.sgm:<P>OPPOSITE MELLUS' STORE ON MAIN STREET.</P>
023.sgm:<P>PRICES REDUCED!</P>
023.sgm:<P>To Keep Pace with the Times</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shaving<HSEP>12 1/2c.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hair-cutting<HSEP>25c.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shampooning<HSEP>25c.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Peter Biggs will always be on hand and ready to attend to all business in his line, such as cleaning and polishing the "understanding" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Recalling Biggs and his barber shop, I may say that, in fitting up his place, he made little or no pretension. He had an old-fashioned, high-backed chair, but otherwise operated much as barbers do to-day.  People sat around waiting their turn; and as Biggs called "Next!" he sprinkled the last victim with Florida water, applying to the hair at the same time his <HI REND="italics">Bear Oil</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Besides Peter Biggs, a number of colored people lived in Los Angeles at an early date-five of whom belonged to the Mexican Veterans--Bob Owens and his wife being among the most prominent. Owens  who came here from Texas in December, 1853  was known to his friends as Uncle Bob, while Mrs. Owens was called Aunt Winnie.  The former at first did all kinds of odd jobs, later profiting through dealings with the Government; while his good wife washed clothes, in which capacity she worked from time to time for my family.  They lived in San Pedro Street, and invested their savings in a lot extending from Spring to Fort streets, between Third and Fourth.  Owens died in 1865.  Their heirs are wealthy as a result of this investment; in fact, I should not be surprised if they are among the most prosperous negroes in America.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Another colored man of the sixties was named Berry, though he was popularly known as Uncle George.  He was indeed a local character, a kind of popinjay; and when not busy with janitor or other all-around scrubwork, sported among the negroes as an ultra-fashionable.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elsewhere I have spoken of the versatility of Dr. William B. Osburn, who showed no little commendable enterprise.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On October 13th, 1854, a good-for-nothing gambler, Dave Brown--who had planned to rob John Temple on one of his business trips, but was thwarted because Temple changed his route--murdered a companion, Pinckney Clifford, in a livery stable at what was later to become the corner of Main and Court streets; and next day the lawless act created such general indignation that vengeance on Brown would undoubtedly then and there have been wreaked had not Stephen C. Foster, who was Mayor, met the crowd of citizens and persuaded them quietly to disperse. In order to mollify the would-be Vigilantes, Foster promised that, if the case miscarried in the courts and Brown was not given his due, he would resign his office and would himself lead those who favored taking the law into their own hands; and as Foster had been a Lieutenant in the Rangers under Dr. Hope, showing himself to be a man of nerve, the crowd had confidence in him and went its way.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On November 30th, Brown was tried in the District Court, and Judge Benjamin Hayes sentenced him to hang on January 12th, 1855--the same date on which Felipe Alvitre, a half-breed Indian, was to pay the penalty for killing James Ellington at El Monte.  Brown's counsel were J. R. Scott, Cameron E. Thom and J. A. Watson; and these attorneys worked so hard and so effectively for their client that on January 10th, or two days before the date set for the execution, Judge Murray of the Supreme Court granted Brown a stay, although apparently no relief was provided for Alvitre.  The latter was hanged in the calaboose or jail yard, in the presence of a vast number of people, at the time appointed. Alvitre having been strung up by Sheriff Barton and his assistants, the rope broke, letting the wretch fall to the ground, more dead than alive. This bungling so infuriated the crowd that cries of " <HI REND="italics">Arriba! Arriba­</HI>
023.sgm: " (Up with him! up with him!) rent the air. The executioners sprang forward, lifted the body, knotted the rope together and once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The news that one execution had taken place, while the Court, in the other case, had interfered, was speedily known by the crowds in the streets and proved too much for the patience of the populace; and only a leader or two were required to focus the indignation of the masses. That leader appeared in Foster who, true to his word, resigned from the office of Mayor and put himself at the head of the mob.  Appeals, evoking loud applause, were made by one speaker after another, each in turn being lifted to the top of a barrel; and then the crowd began to surge toward the jail.  Poles and crowbars were brought, and a blacksmith called for; and the prison doors, which had been locked, bolted and barred, were broken in, very soon convincing the Sheriff and his assistants--if any such conviction were needed--that it was useless to resist. In a few minutes, Brown was reached, dragged out and across Spring Street, and there hanged to the cross-beam of a corral gateway opposite the old jail, the noose being drawn tight while he was still attempting to address the crowd.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When Brown was about to be disposed of, he was asked if he had anything to say; to which he replied that he had no objection to paying the penalty of his crime, but that he did take exception to a "lot of <HI REND="italics">Greasers</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A rather amusing feature of this hanging was the manner in which the report of it was served up to the public. The lynching-bee seemed likely to come off about three o'clock in the afternoon, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:while the steamer for San Francisco was to leave at ten o clock on the same morning; so that the schedules did not agree.  A closer connection was undoubtedly possible-at least so thought Billy Workman, then a typo on the <HI REND="italics">Southern Californian</HI>
023.sgm:<P>While upon the subject of lynching, I wish to observe that I have witnessed many such distressing affairs in Los Angeles; and that, though the penalty of hanging was sometimes too severe for the crime (and I have always deplored, as much as any of us ever did, the administration of mob-justice) yet the safety of the better classes in those troublous times often demanded quick and determined action, and stem necessity knew no law.  And what is more, others besides myself who have also repeatedly faced dangers no longer common, agree with me in declaring, after half a century of observation and reflection, that milder courses than those of the vigilance committees of our young community could hardly have been followed with wisdom and safety.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wood was the only regular fuel for many years, and people were accustomed to buy it in quantities and to pile it carefully in their yards.  When it was more or less of a drug on the market, I paid as little as three dollars and a half a cord; in winter I had to pay more, but the price was never high. No tree was spared, and I have known magnificent oaks to be wantonly felled and used for fuel.  Valuable timber was often destroyed by squatters guilty of a form of trespassing that gave much trouble, as I can testify from my own experience.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henry Dwight Barrows, who had been educated as a Yankee schoolmaster, arrived in Los Angeles in December, 1854, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:private tutor to William Wolfskill. Other parts of Barrows's career were common to many pioneers: he was in business for a while in New York, caught the gold-fever, gave up everything to make the journey across the Isthmus of Panam&aacute;, on which trip he was herded as one of seventeen hundred passengers on a rickety Coast vessel; and finally, after some unsuccessful experiences as a miner in Northern California, he made his way to the Southland to accept the proffered tutorship, hoping to be cured of the malarial fever which he had contracted during his adventures. Barrows taught here three years, returned East by steamer for a brief trip in 1857, and in 1859-60 tried his hand at cultivating grapes, in a vineyard owned by Prudent Beaudry. On November 14th, 1860, Barrows was married to Wolfskill's daughter, Se&ntilde;orita Juana; and later he was County School Superintendent. In 1861, President Lincoln appointed Barrows United States Marshal, the duties of which office he performed for four years. In 1864, having lost his wife he married the widow (formerly Miss Alice Woodworth) of Thomas Workman. The same year he formed a partnership with J. D. Hicks, under the firm name of J. D. Hicks &amp; Company, and sold tin and hardware for twelve or fifteen years.  In 1868, bereaved of his second wife, Barrows married Miss Bessie Ann Greene, a native of New York.  That year, too, he was joined by his brother, James Arnold Barrows,<ANCHOR ID="n10-12">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:, who came by way of Panam&aacute; and bought thirty-five acres of land afterward obtained by the University of Southern California.  About 1874, Barrows was manufacturing pipe.  For years he dwelt with his daughter, Mrs. R. G. Weyse, contributing now and then to the activities of the Historical Society, and taking a keen interest<ANCHOR ID="n10-13">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-12">Died, June 9th, 1914</NOTE>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-13">Died, August 7th, 1914.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>About 1854 or 1855, I. M., Samuel and Herman (who must not be confused with H. W.) Hellman, arrived here, I. M. preceding his brothers by a short period.  In time, I. M. Hellman, in San Francisco, married Miss Caroline Adler; and in 1862 her sister, Miss Adelaide, came south on a visit and married <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1854 or 1855, Bishop &amp; Beale, a firm consisting of Samuel A. Bishop and E. F. Beale, became owners of an immense tract of Kern County land consisting of between two and three hundred thousand acres.  This vast territory was given to them in payment for the work which they had done in surveying the Butterfield Route, later incorporated in the stage road connecting San Francisco with St. Louis. Recently I read an account of Beale's having been an Indian Agent at the Reservation; but if he was, I have forgotten it.  I remember Colonel James F. Vineyard, an Indian Agent and later Senator from Los Angeles; one of whose daughters was married, in 1862, to Congressman Charles De Long, of Nevada City, afterward United States Minister to Japan, and another daughter to Dr. Hayes, of Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Bishop, after a while, sold out his interest in the land and moved to San Jos&eacute;, where he engaged in street-car operations.  He was married near San Gabriel to Miss Frances Young, and I officiated as one of the groomsmen at the wedding. After Bishop disposed of his share, Colonel R. S. Baker became interested, but whether or not he bought Bishop's interest at once, is not clear in my memory.  It is worth noting that Bakersfield, which was part of this great ranch, took its name from Colonel Baker.  Some time later, Baker sold out to Beale and then came South and purchased the San Vicente Ranch. This <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Hilliard P. Dorsey, another typical Western character, was Register of the Land Office and a leading Mason of early days.  He lived in Los Angeles in 1853, and I met him on the <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
023.sgm: in October of that year, on the way south, after a brief visit to San Francisco, and while I was bound for my new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>One day, Dorsey bought a suit of clothes from me on credit. A couple of months passed by, however, without any indication on his part that he intended to pay; and as the sum involved meant much to me at that time, I was on the lookout for my somewhat careless debtor.  In due season, catching sight of him on the other side of the street, I approached, in genuine American fashion, and unceremoniously asked him to liquidate his account.  I had not then heard of the notches in Friend Dorsey's pistol, and was so unconscious of danger that my temerity seemed to impress him.  I believe, in fact, that he must have found the experience novel. However that may be, the next day he called and paid his bill.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In relating this circumstance to friends, I was enlightened as to Dorsey's peculiar propensities and convinced that youth and ignorance alone had saved me from disaster.  In other words, he let me go, as it were, on probation.  Dorsey himself was killed sometime later by his father-in-law, William Rubottom, who had come to El Monte with Ezekiel Rubottom, in 1852 or 1853.  After quarreling with Rubottom, Dorsey, who was not a bad fellow, but of a fiery temper, had entered the yard with a knife in his hand; and Rubottom had threatened to shoot him if he came any nearer.  The son-in-law continued to advance; and Rubottom shot him dead.  M. J. Newmark, Rubottom's attorney, who had been summoned to El Monte for consultation as to Dorsey's treatment of Rubottom's daughter, was present at the fatal moment and witnessed the shooting affray.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Uncle Billy Rubottom, as he was familiarly called, came to Los Angeles County after losing heavily through the bursting of Yuba Dam and was one of the founders of Spadra. He named the settlement, laid out on a part of the San Jos&eacute; <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, after his home town, Spadra Bluffs in Arkansas, and opened a hotel which he made locally famous, during a decade and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI<LB>THE RUSH FOR GOLD<LB>1855</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>AS I have already related, I made fifteen hundred dollars in a few months, and in January, 1855, my brother advised me to form a partnership with men of maturer years.  In this I acquiesced.  He thereupon helped to Organize the firm of Rich, Newmark &amp; Company, consisting of Elias Laventhal (who reached here in 1854 and died on January 20th, 1902), Jacob Rich and myself. Rich was to be the San Francisco resident partner, while Laventhal and I undertook the management of the business in Los Angeles. We prospered from the beginning, deriving much benefit from our San Francisco representation which resulted in our building up something of a wholesale business.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the early fifties, Los Angeles was the meeting-place of a Board of Land Commissioners appointed by the National Government to settle land-claims and to prepare the way for that granting of patents to owners of Southern California ranches which later awakened from time to time such interest here.  This interest was largely due to the fact that the Mexican authorities, in numerous instances, had made the same grant to different persons, often confusing matters badly. Cameron E. Thom, then Deputy Land Agent, took testimony for the Commissioners.  In 1855, this Board completed its labors.  The members were Hiland Hall (later Governor of Vermont,) Harry I. Thornton and Thompson Campbell; and during the season they were here, these Land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Thomas A. Delano, whose name is perpetuated in our local geography, was a sailor who came to Los Angeles on January 4th, 1855, after which, for fifteen or sixteen years, he engaged in freighting.  He married Se&ntilde;orita Soledad, daughter of John C. Vejar, the well-known Spanish Californian.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Slowness and uncertainty of mail delivery in our first decades affected often vital interests, as is shown in the case of the half-breed Alvitre who, as I have said, was sentenced to be executed.  One reason why the Vigilantes, headed by Mayor Foster, despatched Brown was the expectation that both he and Alvitre would get a stay from higher authority; and sure enough, a stay was granted Alvitre, but the document was delayed in transit until the murderer, on January 12th, 1855, had forfeited his life!  Curiously enough, another Alvitre--an aged Californian named Jos&eacute; Claudio--also of El Monte, but six years later atrociously murdered his aged wife; and on April 28th, 1861, he was hanged. The lynchers placed him on a horse under a tree, and then drove the animal away, leaving him suspended from a limb.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Washington's Birthday, in 1855, was made merrier by festivities conducted under the auspices of the City Guards, of which W. W. Twist--a grocer and commission merchant at Beaudry's Block, Aliso Street, and afterward in partnership with Casildo Aguilar--was Captain.  The same organization gave its first anniversary ball in May.  Twist was a Ranger, or member of the volunteer mounted police; and it was he who, in March, 1857, formed the first rifle company.  In the early sixties, he was identified with the sheriff's office, after which, venturing into Mexico, he was killed.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henry C. G. Schaeffer came to Los Angeles on March 16th, 1855, and opened the first gunsmith shop in a little adobe on the east side of Los Angeles Street near Commercial, which he soon surrounded with an attractive flower garden. A year after Schaeffer came, he was followed by another gunsmith, August Stoermer.  Schaeffer continued, however, to sell and mend <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Gold was discovered at Havilah, Kern County, in 1854; and by the early spring of 1855 exaggerated accounts of the find had spread broadcast over the entire State.  Yarn after yarn passed from mouth to mouth, one of the most extravagant of the reports being that a Mexican doctor and alchemist suddenly rode into Mariposa from the hills, where he had found a gulch paved with gold, his horse and himself being fairly covered with bags of nuggets. The rush by gold-seekers on their way from the North to Los Angeles (the Southern gateway to the fields) began in January, 1855, and continued a couple of years, every steamer being loaded far beyond the safety limit; and soon miles of the rough highways leading to the mines were covered with every conceivable form of vehicle and struggling animals, as well as with thousands of footsore prospectors, unable to command transportation at any price. For awhile, ten, twelve and even fifteen per cent. interest a month was offered for small amounts of money by those of the prospectors who needed assistance, a rate based on the calculation that a wide-awake digger would be sure of eight to ten dollars a day, and that with such returns one should certainly be satisfied. This time the excitement was a little too much for the Los Angeles editors to ignore; and in March the publisher of the <HI REND="italics">Southern Californian</HI>
023.sgm:<P>STOP THE PRESS!</P>
023.sgm:<P>GLORIOUS NEWS FROM KERN RIVER!</P>
023.sgm:<P>BRING OUT THE BIG GUN!</P>
023.sgm:<P>There are a thousand gulches rich with gold, and room for ten thousand miners! Miners average $50.00 a day. One man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The affair proved, however, a ridiculous failure; and William Marsh, an old Los Angeles settler and a very decent chap, who conducted a store at Havilah, was among those who suffered heavy loss.  Although some low-grade ore was found, it was generally not in paying quantities.  The dispersion of this adventurous mass of humanity brought to Los Angeles many undesirable people, among them gamblers and desperadoes, who flocked in the wake of the gold-diggers, making another increase in the rough element.  Before long, four men were fatally shot and half a dozen wounded near the Plaza, one Sunday night.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When the excitement about the gold-finds along the Kern River was at its height, Frank Lecouvreur arrived here, March 6th, on the steamship <HI REND="italics">America</HI>
023.sgm:<P>March 29th, 1855, witnessed the organization of the first Odd Fellows' lodge--No. 35--instituted here.  General Ezra Drown was the leading spirit; and others associated with him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>During the fifties, the Bella Union passed under several successive managements. On July 22d, 1854, Dr. Macy sold it to W. G. Ross and a partner named Crockett.  They were succeeded, on April 7th, 1855, by Robert S. Hereford. Ross was killed, some years afterward, by C. P. Duane in San Francisco.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In pursuit of business, in 1855, I made a number of trips to San Bernardino, some of which had their amusing incidents, and most of which afforded pleasure or an agreeable change. Meeting Sam Meyer on one of these occasions, just as I was mounted and ready to start, I invited him to accompany me; and as Sam assured me that he knew where to secure a horse, we started down the street together and soon passed a shop in which there was a Mexican customer holding on to a <HI REND="italics">reata</HI>
023.sgm: leading out through the door to his saddled nag.  Sam walked in; and having a casual acquaintance with the man, asked him if he would lend him the animal for a while?  People were generous in those days; and the good-hearted Mexican, thinking perhaps that Sam was "just going around the corner," carelessly answered, " <HI REND="italics">S&iacute;, Se&ntilde;or</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On another one of these trips I was entertained by Simon Jackson, a merchant of that town, who took me to a restaurant kept by a Captain Weiner. This, the best eating-place in town, was about ten feet square and had a mud floor.  It was a miserably hot day--so hot, in fact, that I distinctly remember the place being filled with flies, and that the butter had run to oil.  Nature had not intended Weiner to cater to sensitive stomachs, at least not on the day of which I speak, and to make matters worse, Weiner was then his own waiter.  He was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:wallowing around in his bare feet, and was otherwise unkempt and unclean; and the whole scene is therefore indelibly impressed on my memory. When the slovenly Captain bawled out: "Which will you have-chops or steak ?"Jackson straightened up, threw out his chest, and in evidence of the vigor of his appetite, just as vociferously answered: "I want a steak as <HI REND="italics">big as a mule's foot</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Living in San Bernardino was a customer of ours, a celebrity by the name of Lewis Jacobs. He had joined the Mormon Church and was a merchant of worth and consequence. Jacobs was an authority on all matters of finance connected with his town, and anyone wishing to know the condition of business men in that neighborhood had only to apply to him.  Once when I was in San Bernardino, I asked him for information regarding a prospective patron who was rather a gay sort of individual; and this was Jacobs's characteristic reply: "A very fine fellow: he plays a little poker, and drinks a little whiskey!" Jacobs became a banker and in 1900 died on shipboard while returning from Europe, leaving a comfortable fortune and the more valuable asset of a good name.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In referring to Alexander &amp; Mellus and their retirement from business, I have said that merchandise required by Southern Californians in the early days, and before the absorption of the Los Angeles market by San Francisco, was largely transported by sailing vessels from the East.  When a ship arrived, it was an event worthy of special notice, and this was particularly the case when such sailing craft came less and less often into port. Sometimes the arrival of the vessel was heralded in advance; and when it was unloaded, the shrewd merchants used decidedly modern methods for the marketing of their wares. In 1855, for example, Johnson &amp; Allanson advertised as follows:</P>
023.sgm:<P>NEW GOODS!  NEW GOODS!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Direct from the Atlantic States, 112 Days' Passage.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Samples of the Cargo at our Store in the Stearns Building; and the entire Cargo will be disposed of cheap, for cash.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Goods delivered at San Pedro or Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>From the above announcement, it must not be inferred that these Los Angeles tradesmen brought to this port the whole shipload of merchandise.  Such ships left but a small part of their cargo here, the major portion being generally consigned to the North.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The dependence on San Francisco continued until the completion of our first transcontinental railway.   In the meantime, Los Angeles had to rely on the Northern city for nearly everything, live stock being about the only exception; and this relation was shown in 1855 by the publication of no less than four columns of San Francisco advertisements in the regular issue of a Los Angeles newspaper.  Much of this commerce with the Southland for years was conducted by means of schooners which ran irregularly and only when there was cargo. They plied between San Francisco and San Pedro, and by agreement put in at Santa B&aacute;rbara and other Coast places such as Port San Luis, when the shipments warranted such stops. N. Pierce &amp; Company were the owners.  One of these vessels in 1855 was the clipper schooner <HI REND="italics">Laura Bevan</HI>
023.sgm:, captained by F. Morton and later wrecked at sea when Frank Lecouvreur just escaped taking passage on her; and another was the <HI REND="italics">Sea Serpent</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I have said that in 1849 the old side-wheeler <HI REND="italics">Gold Hunter</HI>
023.sgm: had commenced paddling the waters around here; but so far as I can remember, she was not operating in 1853. The <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
023.sgm:, on the other hand, was making two round trips a month, carrying passengers, mail and freight from San Francisco to San Diego, and stopping at various Coast points including San Pedro. In a vague way, I also remember the mail steamer <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
023.sgm: under one of the Haleys, the <HI REND="italics">Sea Bird</HI>
023.sgm:, at one time commanded by Salisbury Haley, and the <HI REND="italics">Southerner</HI>
023.sgm:; and if I am uncertain about others, the difficulty may be due to the fact that, because of unseaworthiness and miserable service, owners changed the names of ships from time to time in order to allay the popular prejudice and distrust, so that during some years, several names were successively applied to the same vessel. It must have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:about 1855 or 1856 that the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm: (brought to the Coast by Captain Coffin, January 28th, 1853) was put on the Southern run, and with her advent began a considerably improved service. As the schooners were even more irregular than the steamers, I generally divided my shipments, giving to the latter what I needed immediately, and consigning by the schooners, whose freight rates were much lower, what could stand delay.  One more word about the <HI REND="italics">Goliah:</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Recalling these old-time side-wheelers whose paddles churned the water into a frothing foam out of all proportion to the speed with which they drove the boat along her course, I recall, with a feeling almost akin to sentiment, the roar of the signal-gun fired just before landing, making the welcome announcement, as well to the traveler  as to his friends awaiting him on shore, that the voyage had been safely consummated.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shortly after my arrival in Los Angeles, the transportation service was enlarged by the addition of a stage line from San Francisco which ran along the Coast from the Northern city to the Old Town of San Diego, making stops all along the road, including San Jos&eacute;, San Luis Obispo, Santa B&aacute;rbara and San Buenaventura, and particularly at Los Angeles, where not only horses, but stages and supplies were kept.  The stage to San Diego followed, for the most part, the route selected later by the Santa F&eacute; Railroad.</P>
023.sgm:<P>These old-time stages remind me again of the few varieties of vehicles then in use.  John Goller had met with much skepticism and ridicule, as I have said, when he was planning an improvement on the old and clumsy <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
023.sgm:; and when his new ideas did begin to prevail, he suffered from competition.  E. L. Scott &amp; Company came as blacksmiths and carriage-makers in 1855; and George Boorham was another who arrived about the same time. Ben McLoughlin was also an early wheelwright. Among Goller's assistants who afterward opened shops for themselves, were the three Louis's--Roeder, Lichtenberger and Breer; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Roeder and Lichtenberger<ANCHOR ID="n11-14">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-14">Liehtenberger died some years ago; Roeder died February 20th, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Thomas W. Seeley, Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:<P>When Captain Seeley was killed in the <HI REND="italics">Ada Hancock</HI>
023.sgm: disaster, in 1863, First Mate Butters was made Captain and continued for some time in command.  Just what his real fitness was, I cannot say; but it seemed to me that he did not know the Coast any too well.  This impression also existed in <illus entity="a023-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Louis Sainsevain</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Manuel Dominguez</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">El Aliso, the Sainsevain Winery</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Jacob Elias</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">John T. Lanfranco</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>J. Frank Burns</P>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Henry D. Barrows</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>George F. Lamson was an auctioneer who arrived in Los Angeles in 1855. Aside from the sale of live stock, there was not much business in his line; although, as I have said, Dr. Osburn, the Postmaster, also had an auction room.  Sales of household effects were held on a Tuesday or a Wednesday; while horses were offered for sale on Saturdays. Lamson had the typical auctioneer's personality; and many good stories were long related, illustrating his humor, wit and amusing impudence by which he often disposed, even to his friends, of almost worthless objects at high prices. A daughter Gertrude, widely known as Lillian Nance O'Neill, never married; another daughter, Lillian, is the wife of William Desmond, the actor.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1854, Congress made an appropriation of fifty thousand dollars which went far toward opening up the trade that later flourished between Los Angeles and Salt Lake City.  This money was for the survey and location of a wagon-road between San Bernardino and the Utah capital; and on the first of May, 1855, Gilbert &amp; Company established their Great Salt Lake Express over that Government route.  It was at first a pony express, making monthly trips, carrying letters and stopping at such stations as Coal Creek, Fillmore City, Summit Creek and American Fork, and finally reaching Great Salt Lake; and early having good Los Angeles connections, it prospered sufficiently to substitute a wagon-service for the pony express. Although this was at first intended only as a means of connecting the Mormon capital with the more recently-founded Mormon settlement at San Bernardino, the extension of the service to Los Angeles eventually made this city the terminus.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Considerable excitement was caused by the landing at San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Thomas Foster, a Kentuckian, was the sixth Mayor of Los Angeles, taking office in May, 1855. He lived opposite Masonic Hall on Main Street, with his family, among whom were some charming daughters, and was in partnership with Dr. R. T. Hayes, in Apothecaries' Hall near the Post Office. He was one of the first Masons here and was highly esteemed; and he early declared himself in favor of better school and water facilities.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About the second week of June, 1855, appeared the first Spanish newspaper in Los Angeles under the American <HI REND="italics">r&eacute;gime</HI>
023.sgm:. It was called <HI REND="italics">El Clamor P&uacute;blico</HI>
023.sgm:, and made its appeal, socially, to the better class of native Californians.  Politically, it was edited for Republicans, especially for the supporters, in 1856, of Fr&eacute;mont for President.  Its editor was Francisco P. Ramirez; but though he was an able journalist and a good typo--becoming, between 1860 and 1862, State Printer in Sonora and, in 1865, Spanish Translator for the State of California--the <HI REND="italics">Clamor</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII<LB>THE GREAT HORSE RACE<LB>1855</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>FROM all accounts, Fourth of July was celebrated in Los Angeles with more or less enthusiasm from the time of the City's reorganization, although afterward, as we shall see, the day was often neglected; but certainly in 1855 the festivities were worthy of remembrance.  There was less formality, perhaps, and more cannonading than in later years; music was furnished by a brass band from Fort Tej&oacute;n; and Phineas Banning was the stentorian "orator of the day." Two years previously, Banning had provided a three days' celebration and barbecue for the Fourth, attended by my brother; and I once enjoyed a barbecue at San Juan Capistrano where the merriment, continuing for half a week, marked both the hospitality and the leisurely habits of the people. In those days (when men were not afraid of noise) boys, in celebrating American Independence, made all the hullabaloo possible, untrammeled by the nonsense of "a sane Fourth."</P>
023.sgm:<P>On the Fourth of July and other holidays, as well as on Sundays, men from the country came to town, arrayed in their fanciest clothes; and, mounted upon their most spirited and gaily-caparisoned <HI REND="italics">caballos de silla</HI>
023.sgm:, or saddle-horses, they paraded the streets, as many as ten abreast, jingling the metallic parts of their paraphernalia, admired and applauded by the populace, and keenly alive to the splendid appearance they and their outfits made, and to the effect sure to be produced on the fair <HI REND="italics">se&ntilde;oritas</HI>
023.sgm:.  The most popular thoroughfare for this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:purpose was Main Street.  On such occasions, the men wore short, very tight-fitting jackets of bright-colored material--blue, green and yellow being the favorite colors--and trimmed with gold and silver lace or fringe.  These jackets were so tight that often the wearers put them on only with great difficulty.  The <HI REND="italics">calzoneras</HI>
023.sgm:, or pantaloons, were of the same material as the jackets, open on the side and flanked with brass buttons. The openings exposed the <HI REND="italics">calzoncillos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
023.sgm:, worn by men, was the native substitute for the overcoat. It was a narrow, Mexican blanket of finest wool, multicolored and provided with a hole near the center large enough to let the wearer's head through; and when not in actual use, it was thrown over the saddle. The head-gear consisted in winter of a broad-rimmed, high-crowned, woolen <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
023.sgm:, usually brown, which was kept in place during fast travel or a race by a ribbon or band fastened under the chin; often, as in the familiar case of Ygn&aacute;cio Lugo, the hat was ornamented with beads. In summer, the rider substituted a shirt for the <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
023.sgm: and a Panam&aacute; for the <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
023.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">caballero's</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The women, on the other hand, wore skirts of silk, wool or cotton, according to their wealth or the season.  Many of the female conceits had not appeared in 1853; the grandmothers of the future suffragettes wore, instead of bonnets and hats, a <HI REND="italics">rebozo</HI>
023.sgm:, or sort of scarf or muffler, which covered their heads and shoulders and looked delightfully picturesque.  To don this gracefully was, in fact, quite an art.  Many of the native California ladies also braided their hair, and wore circular combs around the back of their heads; at least this was so until, with the advent of a greater number of American women, their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:more modern, though less romantic, styles commenced to prevail, when even the picturesque <HI REND="italics">mantilla</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Noting these differences of dress in early days, I should not forget to state that there were both American and Mexican tailors here; among the former being one McCoy and his son, merry companions whose copartnership carousals were proverbial.  The Mexican tailor had the advantage of knowing just what the native requirements were, although in the course of time his <HI REND="italics">Gringo</HI>
023.sgm: rival came to understand the tastes and prejudices of the <HI REND="italics">paisano</HI>
023.sgm:, and to obtain the better share of the patronage.  The cloth from which the <HI REND="italics">caballero's</HI>
023.sgm:<P>As with clothes and tailors, so it was with other articles of apparel and those who manufactured them; the natives had their own shoe- and hat-makers, and their styles were unvarying. The genuine Panam&aacute; hat was highly prized and often copied; and Francisco Velardes--who used a grindstone bought of John Temple in 1852, now in the County Museum--was one who sold and imitated Panam&aacute;s of the fifties.  A product of the bootmakers' skill were leathern leggings, worn to protect the trousers when riding on horseback.   The <HI REND="italics">Gringos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Growing out of these exhibitions of horsemanship and of the natives' fondness for display, was the rather important industry of making Mexican saddles, in which quite a number of skilled <HI REND="italics">paisanos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On holidays and even Sundays, Upper Main Street--formerly called the Calle de las Virgenes, or Street of the Maids, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:later San Fernando Street--was the scene of horse races and their attendant festivities, just as it used to be when money or gold was especially plentiful, if one may judge from the stories of those who were here in the prosperous year, 1850. People from all over the county visited Los Angeles to take part in the sport, some coming from mere curiosity, but the majority anxious to bet. Some money, and often a good deal of stock changed hands, according to the success or failure of the different favorites.  It cannot be claimed, perhaps, that the Mexican, like the <HI REND="italics">Gringo</HI>
023.sgm:, made a specialty of developing horseflesh to perfection; yet Mexicans owned many of the fast horses, such as Don Jos&eacute; Sep&uacute;lveda's <HI REND="italics">Sydney Ware</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Black Swan</HI>
023.sgm:, and the Californian <HI REND="italics">Sarco</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The most celebrated of all these horse races of early days was that between Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s Sep&uacute;lveda's <HI REND="italics">Black Swan</HI>
023.sgm: and Pio Pico's <HI REND="italics">Sarco</HI>
023.sgm:, the details of which I learned, soon after I came here, from Tom Mott. Sep&uacute;lveda had imported the <HI REND="italics">Black Swan</HI>
023.sgm: from Australia, in 1852, the year of the race, while Pico chose a California steed to defend the honors of the day.  Sep&uacute;lveda himself went to San Francisco to receive the consignment in person, after which he committed the thoroughbred into the keeping of Bill Brady, the trainer, who rode him down to Los Angeles, and gave him as much care as might have been bestowed upon a favorite child. They were to race nine miles, the <HI REND="italics">carrera</HI>
023.sgm: commencing on San Pedro Street near the city limits, and running south a league and a half and return; and the reports of the preparation having spread throughout California, the event came to be looked upon as of such great importance, that, from San Francisco to San Diego, whoever had the money hurried to Los Angeles to witness the contest and bet on the result.  Twenty-five thousand dollars, in addition to five hundred horses, five hundred mares, five hundred heifers, five hundred calves and five hundred sheep were among the princely stakes put up; and the wife of Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s was driven to the scene of the memorable contest with a veritable fortune in gold slugs wrapped in a large handkerchief.  Upon arriving there, she opened her improvised purse and distributed the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:shining fifty-dollar pieces to all of her attendants and servants, of whom there were not a few, with the injunction that they should wager the money on the race; and her example was followed by others, so that, in addition to the cattle, land and merchandise hazarded, a considerable sum of money was bet by the contending parties and their friends.  The <HI REND="italics">Black Swan</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Many kinds of amusements marked these festal occasions, and bull-fights were among the diversions patronized by some Angele&ntilde;os, the Christmas and New Year holidays of 1854-55 being celebrated in that manner. I dare say that in earlier days Los Angeles may have had its Plaza de Toros, as did the ancient metropolis of the great country to the South; but in the later stages of the sport here, the <HI REND="italics">toreador</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cock-fights were also a very common form of popular entertainment, and sports were frequently seen going around the streets with fighting cocks under each arm.  The fights generally took place in Sonora Town, though now and then they were held in San Gabriel.  Mexicans carried on quite a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:trade in game roosters among the patrons of this pastime, of whom M. G. Santa Cruz was one of the best known.  Sometimes, too, roosters contributed to still another brutal diversion known as <HI REND="italics">correr el gallo:</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The easy-going temperament of the native gave rise to many an amusing incident. I once asked a woman, as we were discussing the coming marriage of her daughter, whom the dark-eyed <HI REND="italics">se&ntilde;orita</HI>
023.sgm: was to marry; whereupon she replied, "I forget;" and turning to her daughter, she asked: "&iquest;<HI REND="italics">Como se llama</HI>
023.sgm:<P>George Dalton bought a tract of land on Washington, east of San Pedro Street, in 1855, and set out a vineyard and orchard which he continued to cultivate until 1887, when he moved to Walnut Avenue. Dalton was a Londoner who sailed from Liverpool on the day of Queen Victoria's coronation, to spend some years wandering through Pennsylvania and Ohio. About 1851, he followed to the Azusa district his brother, Henry Dalton, who had previously been a merchant in Peru; but, preferring the embryo city to the country, he returned to Los Angeles to live. Two sons, E. H. Dalton, City Water Overseer, in 1886-87, and Winnall Travelly Dalton, the vineyardist, were offspring of Dalton's first marriage. Elizabeth M., a daughter, married William H. Perry. Dalton Avenue is named after the Dalton family.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In another place I have spoken of the dearth of trees in the town when I came, though the editor of the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm: and others had advocated tree-planting. This was not due to mere neglect; there was prejudice against such street improvement.  The School Trustees had bought a dozen or more black locust-trees, "at eight bits each," and planted them on the school lot at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Two partially-successful attempts were made, in 1855, to introduce the chestnut-tree here.   Jean Louis Sainsevain, coming to Los Angeles in that year, brought with him some seed; and this doubtless led Solomon Lazard to send back to Bordeaux for some of the Italian variety.  William Wolfskill, who first brought here the persimmon-tree, took a few of the seeds imported by Lazard and planted them near his homestead; and a dozen of the trees later adorned the beautiful garden of O. W. Childs who, in the following year, started some black walnut seed obtained in New York. H. P. Dorsey was also a pioneer walnut grower.</P>
023.sgm:<P>My brother's plans at this time included a European visit, commencing in 1855 and lasting until 1856, during which trip, in Germany, on November 11th, 1855, he was married.  After his Continental tour, he returned to San Francisco and was back in Los Angeles some time before 1857. On this European voyage, my brother was entrusted with the care and delivery of American Government documents.  From London he carried certain papers to the American Minister in Denmark; and in furtherance of his mission, he was given the following introduction and passport from James Buchanan, then Minister Plenipotentiary to the Court of St. James and later President of the United States:</P>
023.sgm:<P>No. 282<HSEP>BEARER OF DESPATCHES</P>
023.sgm:<P>LEGATION OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AT LONDON.</P>
023.sgm:<P>To all to whom these presents shall come, Greeting;</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Know Ye, that the bearer hereof, Joseph P. Newmark, Esq., is proceeding to Hamburgh and Denmark, bearing Despatches from this Legation, to the United States' Legation at Copenhagen.</P>
023.sgm:<P>These are therefore to request all whom it may concern, to permit him to pass freely without let or molestation, and to extend to him such friendly aid and protection, as would be extended to Citizens and Subjects of Foreign Countries, resorting to the United States, bearing Despatches.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In testimony whereof, I, James Buchanan, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, of the United States of America, at London, have hereunto set my hand, and caused the Seal of this Legation to be affixed this Tenth day of July A.D. 1855 and of the Independence of the United States the Eightieth.</P>
023.sgm:<P>(Signed,)</P>
023.sgm:<P>JAMES  BUCHANAN.</P>
023.sgm:<P>(Seal of the Legation of the U. S. of America to Great Britain.)</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have always accepted the fact of my brother's selection to convey these documents as evidence that, in the few years since his arrival in America, he had attained a position of some responsibility.  Aside from this, I am inclined to relate the experience because it shows the then limited resources of our Federal authorities abroad, especially as compared with their comprehensive facilities to-day, including their own despatch agents, messengers and Treasury representatives scattered throughout Europe.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A trip of Prudent Beaudry abroad about this time reminds me that specialization in medical science was as unknown in early Los Angeles as was specialization in business, and that persons suffering from grave physical disorders frequently visited even remoter points than San Francisco in search of relief. In 1855, Beaudry's health having become seriously impaired, he went to Paris to consult the famous oculist, Sichel; but he received little or no benefit.  While in Europe, Beaudry visited the Exposition of that year, and was one of the first Angele&ntilde;os, I suppose, to see a World's Fair.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>These early tours to Europe by Temple, Beaudry and my brother, and some of my own experiences, recall the changes in the manner of bidding Los Angeles travelers <HI REND="italics">bon-voyage</HI>
023.sgm:. Friends generally accompanied the tourist to the outlying steamer, reached by a tug or lighter; and when the leave-taking came, there were cheers, repetitions of <HI REND="italics">adi&oacute;s</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The first earthquake felt throughout California, of which I have any recollection, occurred on July 11th, 1855, somewhat after eight o'clock in the evening, and was a most serious local disturbance. Almost every structure in Los Angeles was damaged, and some of the walls were left with large cracks.  Near San Gabriel, the adobe in which Hugo Reid's Indian wife dwelt was wrecked, notwithstanding that it had walls four feet thick, with great beams of lumber drawn from the mountains of San Bernardino. In certain spots, the ground rose; in others, it fell; and with the rising and falling, down came chimneys, shelves full of salable stock or household necessities, pictures and even parts of roofs, while water in barrels, and also in several of the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII<LB>PRINCELY <HI REND="italics">RANCHO</HI>
023.sgm: DOMAINS<LB>1855</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>OF the wonderful domains granted to the Spanish dons some were still in the possession of their descendants; some had passed into the hands of the Argonauts; but nothing in the way of subdividing had been attempted.  The private ownership of Los Angeles County in the early fifties, therefore, was distinguished by few holders and large tracts, one of the most notable being that of Don Abel Stearns, who came here in 1829, and who, in his early adventures, narrowly escaped exile or being shot by an irate Spanish governor.  Eventually, Stearns became the proud possessor of tens of thousands of acres between San Pedro and San Bernardino, now covered with cities, towns and hamlets.  The site of the Long Beach of to-day was but a small part of his Alamitos <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Juan Temple owned the Los Cerritos <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, consisting of some twenty-seven thousand acres, patented on December 27th, 1867, but which, I have heard, he bought of the Nieto heirs in the late thirties, building there the typical ranch-house, later the home of the Bixbys and still a feature of the neighborhood. Across the Cerritos Stockton's weary soldiers dragged their way; and there, or near by, Carrillo, by driving wild horses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Another citizen of Los Angeles who owned much property when I came, and who lived upon his ranch, was Francis Phinney Fisk Temple, one of the first Los Angeles supervisors, a man exceptionally modest and known among his Spanish-speaking friends as Templito, because of his five feet four stature. He came here, by way of the Horn, in 1841, when he was but nineteen years of age, and for a while was in business with his brother John. Marrying Se&ntilde;orita Ant&oacute;nia Margarita Workman, however, on September 30th, 1845, Francis made his home at La Merced Ranch, twelve miles east of Los Angeles, in the San Gabriel Valley, where he had a spacious and hospitable adobe after the old Spanish style, shaped something like a U, and about seventy by one hundred and ten feet in size. Around this house, later destroyed by fire, Temple planted twenty acres of fruit trees and fifty thousand or more vines, arranging the whole in a garden partly enclosed by a fence  the exception rather than the rule for even a country nabob of that time. Templito also owned other ranches many miles in extent; but misfortune overtook him, and by the nineties his estate possessed scarcely a single acre of land in either the city or the county of Los Angeles; and he breathed his last in a rude sheep herder's camp in a corner of one of his famous properties.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel Julian Isaac Williams, who died some three years after I arrived, owned the celebrated Cucamonga and Chino ranches. As early as 1842, after a nine or ten years' residence in Los Angeles, Williams moved to the Rancho del Chino, which included not merely the Santa Ana del Chino grant-some twenty-two thousand acres originally given to Don Ant&oacute;nio Mar&iacute;a Lugo, in 1841-but the addition of twelve to thirteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:thousand acres, granted in 1843 to Williams (who became Lugo's son-in-law) making a total of almost thirty-five thousand acres.  On that ranch Williams built a house famed far and wide for its spaciousness and hospitality; and it was at his <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
023.sgm: that the celebrated capture of B. D. Wilson and others was effected when they ran out of ammunition.  Williams was liberal in assisting the needy, even despatching messengers to Los Angeles, on the arrival at his ranch of worn-out and ragged immigrants, to secure clothing and other supplies for them; and it is related that, on other occasions, he was known to have advanced to young men capital amounting in the aggregate to thousands of dollars, with which they established themselves in business.  By 1851, Williams had amassed personal property estimated to be worth not less than thirty-five thousand dollars.  In the end, he gave his <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Benjamin Davis Wilson, or Benito Wilson, as he was usually called, who owned a good part of the most beautiful land in the San Gabriel Valley and who laid out the trail up the Sierra Madre to Wilson's Peak, was one of our earliest settlers, having come from Tennessee <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm: New Mexico, in 1841. In June, 1846, Wilson joined the riflemen organized against Castro, and in 1848, having been put in charge of some twenty men to protect the San Bernardino frontier, he responded to a call from Isaac Williams to hasten to the Chino <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: where, with his compatriots, he was taken prisoner.  Somewhat earlier--I have understood about 1844--Wilson and Albert Packard formed a partnership, but this was dissolved near the end of 1851. In 1850, Wilson was elected County Clerk; and the following year, he volunteered to patrol the hills and assist in watching for Garra, the outlaw, the report of whose coming was terrorizing the town. In 1853, he was Indian Agent for Southern California.  It must have been about 1849 that Wilson secured <illus entity="a023-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Maurice Kremer</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Solomon Lazard</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Mellus's, or Bell's Row</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">William H. Workman and John King</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0053" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Prudent Beaudry</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0054" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">James S. Mallard</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0055" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">John Behn</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel Jonathan Trumbull Warner, master of Warner's Ranch, later the property of John G. Downey, and known--from his superb stature of over six feet--both as Juan Jos&eacute; Warner and as Juan Largo, "Long John," returned to Los Angeles in 1857.  Warner had arrived in Southern California, on December 5th, 1831, at the age of twenty-eight, having come West, from Connecticut, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm: Missouri and Salt Lake, partly for his health, and partly to secure mules for the Louisiana market.  Like many others whom I have known, Warner did not intend to remain; but illness decided for him, and in 1843 he settled in San Diego County, near the California border, on what (later known as Warner's Ranch) was to become, with its trail from old Sonora, historic ground.  There, during the fourteen years of his occupancy, some of the most stirring episodes of the Mexican War occurred; during one of which--Ensign Espinosa's attack--Don Juan having objected to the forcible searching of his house, he had his arm broken.  There, also, Ant&oacute;nio Garra and his lawless band made their assault, and were repulsed by Long John, who escaped on horseback, leaving in his wake four or five dead Indians. For this, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>William Wolfskill, who died on October 3d, 1866, was another pioneer well-established long before I had even thought of California.  Born in Kentucky at the end of the Eighteenth Century--of a family originally of Teutonic stock (if we may credit a high German authority) traced back to a favorite soldier of Frederick the Great--Wolfskill in 1830 came to Los Angeles, for a short time, with Ewing Young, the noted beaver-trapper. Then he acquired several leagues of land in Yolo and Solano counties, sharing what he had with his brothers, John and Mateo. Later he sold out, returned to Los Angeles, and bought and stocked the <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: Lomas de Santiago, which he afterward disposed of to Flint, Bixby &amp; Company. He also bought of Corbitt, Dibblee &amp; Barker the Santa Anita <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: (comprising between nine and ten thousand acres), and some twelve thousand besides; the Santa Anita he gave to his son, Louis, who later sold it for eighty-five thousand dollars.  Besides this, Wolfskill acquired title to a part of the <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: San Francisquito, on which Newhall stands, disposing of that, however, during the first oil excitement, to the Philadelphia Oil Company, at seventy-five cents an acre--a good price at that time.  Before making these successful realty experiments, this hero of desert hardships had assisted to build, soon after his arrival here, one of the first vessels ever constructed and launched in California--a schooner fitted out at San Pedro to hunt for sea otter.  In January, 1841, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Concerning Mateo, I recall an interesting illustration of early fiscal operations. He deposited thirty thousand dollars with S. Lazard &amp; Company and left it there so long that they began to think he would never come back for it. He did return, however, after many years, when he presented a certificate of deposit and withdrew the money. This transaction bore no interest, as was often the case in former days.  People deposited money with friends in whom they had confidence, not for the purpose of profit but simply for safety.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elijah T. Moulton, a Canadian, was one of the few pioneers who preceded the Forty-niners and was permitted to see Los Angeles well on its way toward metropolitan standing.  In 1844 he had joined an expedition to California organized by Jim Bridger and having reached the Western country, he volunteered to serve under Fr&eacute;mont in the Mexican campaign. There the hardships which Moulton endured were far severer than those which tested the grit of the average emigrant; and Moulton in better days often told how, when nearly driven to starvation, he and a comrade had actually used a remnant of the Stars and Stripes as a seine with which to fish, and so saved their lives.  About 1850, Moulton was Deputy Sheriff under George T. Burrill; then he went to work for Don Louis Vignes. Soon afterward, he bought some land near William Wolfskill's, and in 1855 took charge of Wolfskill's property.  This resulted in his marriage to one of Wolfskill's daughters, who died in 1861.  In the meantime, he had acquired a hundred and fifty acres or more in what is now East Los Angeles, and was thus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>William Workman and John Rowland, father of William or Billy Rowland, resided in 1853 on La Puente <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>John Reed, Rowland's son-in-law, was also a large land-proprietor. Reed had fallen in with Rowland in New Mexico, and while there married Rowland's daughter, Nieves; and when Rowland started for California, Reed came with him and together they entered into ranching at La Puente, finding artesian water there, in 1859.   Thirteen years before, Reed was in the American army and took part in the battles fought on the march from San Diego to Los Angeles. After his death on the ranch in 1874, his old homestead came into possession of John Rowland's son, William, who often resided there; and Rowland, later discovering oil on his land, organized the Puente Oil Company.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Juan Forster, an Englishman, possessed the Santa Margarita <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, which he had taken up in 1864, some years after he married Do&ntilde;a Ysidora Pico.  She was a sister of Pio and Andr&eacute;s Pico, and there, as a result of that alliance, General Pico found a safe retreat while fleeing from Fr&eacute;mont into Lower California. Forster for a while was a seaman out of San Pedro. When he went to San Juan Capistrano, where he became a sort of local <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
023.sgm: and was often called Don San Juan or even San Juan Capistrano, he experimented with raising stock and became so successful as a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Manuel, Pedro, Nas&aacute;rio and Victoria Dominguez owned in the neighborhood of forty-eight thousand acres of the choicest land in the South.  More than a century ago, Juan Jos&eacute; Dominguez received from the King of Spain ten or eleven leagues of land, known as the Rancho de San Pedro; and this was given by Governor de Sola, after Juan Jos&eacute;'s death in 1822, to his brother, Don Crist&oacute;bal Dominguez, a Spanish officer. Don Crist&oacute;bal married a Mexican commissioner's daughter, and one of their ten children was Manuel, who, educated by wide reading and fortunate in a genial temperament and high standard of honor, became an esteemed and popular officer under the Mexican <HI REND="italics">r&eacute;gime</HI>
023.sgm:, displaying no little chivalry in the battle of Dominguez fought on his own property. On the death of his father, Don Manuel took charge of the Rancho de San Pedro (buying out his sister Victoria's interest of twelve thousand acres, at fifty cents an acre) until in 1855 it was partitioned between himself, his brother, Don Pedro and two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Henry Dalton, who came here sometime before 1845, having been a merchant in Peru, owned the Azusa Ranch of over four thousand acres, the patent to which was finally issued in 1876, and also part of the San Francisquito Ranch of eight thousand acres, allowed him somewhat later.  Besides these, he had an interest, with Ygn&aacute;cio Palomares and Ricardo Vejar, in the San Jos&eacute; <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Of all these worthy dons, possessing vast landed estates, Don Ant&oacute;nio Mar&iacute;a Lugo, brother of Ygn&aacute;cio Lugo, was one of the most affluent and venerable.  He owned the San Ant&oacute;nio <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Louis Robidoux, a French-American of superior ability who, like many others, had gone through much that was exciting <illus entity="a023-0056" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Louis Robidoux</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0057" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Julius G. Weyse</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0058" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">John Behn</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0059" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Louis Breer</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0060" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">William H. Brodrick</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0061" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Isaac R. Dunkelberger</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0062" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Frank J. Carpenter</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0063" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Augustus Ulyard</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:and unpleasant to establish himself in this wild, open country, eventually had an immense estate known as the Jurupa <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Many of the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Louis Robidoux maintained such a store for the accommodation of his hands, and often came to town, sometimes for several days, on which occasions he would buy very liberally anything that happened to take his fancy. In this respect he occasionally acted without good judgment, and if opposed would become all the more determined.  Not infrequently he called for so large a supply of some article that I was constrained to remark that he could not possibly need so much; whereupon he would repeat the order with angry emphasis.  I sometimes visited his ranch and recall, in particular, one stay of two or three days there in 1857 when, after an unusually large purchase, Robidoux asked me to assist him in checking up the invoices.  The cases were unpacked in his ranchhouse; and I have never forgotten the amusing picture of the numerous little Robidoux, digging and delving among the assorted goods for all the prizes they could find, and thus rendering the process of listing the goods much more difficult. When the delivery had been found correct, Robidoux turned to his Mexican wife and asked her to bring the money. She went to the side of the room, opened a Chinese trunk such as every well-to-do Mexican family had (and sometimes as many as half a dozen), and drew therefrom the customary buckskin, from which she extracted the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:required and rather large amount.  These trunks were made of cedar, were gaudily painted, and had the quality of keeping out moths.  They were, therefore, displayed with pride by the owners.  Recently on turning the pages of some ledgers in which Newmark, Kremer &amp; Company carried the account of this famous <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
023.sgm:, I was interested to find there full confirmation of what I have elsewhere claimed--that the now renowned Frenchman spelled the first syllable of his name <HI REND="italics">Ro-</HI>
023.sgm:, and not <HI REND="italics">Ru-</HI>
023.sgm:, nor yet <HI REND="italics">Rou-, as</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I should refrain from mentioning a circumstance or two in Robidoux's life with which I am familiar but for the fact that I believe posterity is ever curious to know the little failings as well as the pronounced virtues of men who, through exceptional personality or association, have become historic characters; and that some knowledge of their foibles should not tarnish their reputation. Robidoux, as I have remarked, came to town very frequently, and when again he found himself amid livelier scenes and congenial fellows, as in the late fifties, he always celebrated the occasion with a few intimates, winding up his befuddling bouts in the arms of Chris Fluhr, who winked at his weakness and good-naturedly tucked him away in one of the old-fashioned beds of the Lafayette Hotel, there to remain until he was able to transact business.  After all, such celebrating was then not at all uncommon among the best of Southern California people, nor, if gossip may be credited, is it entirely unknown to-day.  Robert Hornbeck, of Redlands, by the way, has sought to perpetuate this pioneer's fame in an illustrated volume, <HI REND="italics">Roubidoux's Ranch in the 70's</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Robidoux's name leads me to recur to early judges and to his identification with the first Court of Sessions here, when there was such a sparseness even of <HI REND="italics">rancher&iacute;as</HI>
023.sgm:.  Robidoux then lived on his Jurupa domain, and not having been at the meeting of township justices which selected himself and Judge Scott to sit on the bench, and enjoying but infrequent communication with the more peopled districts of Southern California, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of ranches, and of the Jurupa in particular, I may here reprint an advertisement--a miniature tree and a house heading the following announcement in the <HI REND="italics">Southern Californian</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The Subscriber, being anxious to get away from Swindlers, offers for sale one of the very finest <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Bernardo Yorba was another great landowner; and I am sure that, in the day of his glory, he might have traveled fifty to sixty miles in a straight line, touching none but his own possessions.  His ranches, on one of which Pio Pico hid from Santiago Arguello, were delightfully located where now stand such places as Anaheim, Orange, Santa Ana, Westminster, Garden Grove and other towns in Orange County--then a part of Los Angeles County.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This leads me to describe a shrewd trick.  Schlesigner &amp; Sherwinsky, traders in general merchandise in 1853, when they bought a wagon in San Francisco, brought it here by steamer, loaded it with various attractive wares, took it out to good-natured and easy-going Bernardo Yorba, and wheedled the well-known <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The Verdugo family had an extensive acreage where such towns as Glendale now enjoy the benefit of recent suburban development, Governor Pedro Fages having granted, as early as 1784, some thirty-six thousand acres to Don Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Verdugo, which grant was reaffirmed in 1798, thereby affording the basis of a patent issued in 1882, to Julio Verdugo <HI REND="italics">et al</HI>
023.sgm:, although Verdugo died in 1858.  To this Verdugo <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, Fr&eacute;mont sent Jesus Pico--the Mexican guide whose life he had spared, as he was about to be executed at San Luis Obispo--to talk with the Californians and to persuade them to deal with Fr&eacute;mont instead of Stockton; and there on February 21st, 1845, Micheltorena and Castro met.  Near there also, still later, the celebrated Casa Verdugo entertained for many years the epicures of Southern California, becoming one of the best-known restaurants for Spanish dishes in the State.  Little by little, the Verdugo family lost all their property, partly through their refusal or inability to pay taxes; so that by the second decade of the Twentieth Century the surviving representatives, including Victoriano and Guillermo Verdugo, were reduced to poverty.<ANCHOR ID="n13-15">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-15">Julio Chrisostino Verdugo died early in March, 1915, supposed to be about one hundred and twelve years old.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Recalling Verdugo and his San Rafael Ranch let me add that he had thirteen sons, all of whom frequently accompanied their father to town, especially on election day. On those occasions, J. Lancaster Brent, whose political influence with the old man was supreme, took the Verdugo party in hand and distributed, through the father, fourteen election tickets, on which were impressed the names of Brent's candidates.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Manuel Garfias, County Treasurer a couple of years before I came, was another land-baron, owning in his own name some thirteen or fourteen thousand acres of the San Pasqual Ranch. There, among the picturesque hills and valleys where both Pico and Flores had military camps, now flourish the cities of Pasadena and South Pasadena, which include the land where stood the first house erected on the ranch.  It is my impression that beautiful Altadena is also on this land.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ricardo Vejar, another magnate, had an interest in a wide area of rich territory known as the San Jos&eacute; Ranch.  Not less than twenty-two thousand acres made up this <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: which, as early as 1837, had been granted by Governor Alvarado to Vejar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:and Ygn&aacute;cio Palomares who died on November 25th, 1864. Two or three years later, Luis Arenas joined the two, and Alvarado renewed his grant, tacking on a league or two of San Jos&eacute; land lying to the West and nearer the San Gabriel mountains. Arenas, in time, disposed of his interest to Henry Dalton; and Dalton joined Vejar in applying to the courts for a partitioning of the estate. This division was ordered by the Spanish <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
023.sgm: six or seven years before my arrival; but Palomares still objected to the decision, and the matter dragged along in the tribunals many years, the decree finally being set aside by the Court.  Vejar, who had been assessed in 1851 for thirty-four thousand dollars' worth of personal property, sold his share of the estate for twenty-nine thousand dollars, in the spring of 1874. It is a curious fact that not until the San Jos&eacute; <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The Machados, of whom there were several brothers--Don Agustin, who died on May 17th, 1865, being the head of the family--had title to nearly fourteen thousand acres. Their ranch, originally granted to Don Ygn&aacute;cio Machado in 1839 and patented in 1873, was known as La Ballona and extended from the city limits to the ocean; and there, among other stock, in 1860, were more than two thousand head of cattle.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Picos acquired much territory.  There were two brothers--Pio, who as Mexican Governor had had wide supervision over land, and Andr&eacute;s, who had fought throughout the San Pasqual campaigns until the capitulation at Cahuenga, and still later had dashed with spirit across country in pursuit of the murderers of Sheriff Barton.  Pio Pico alone, in 1851, was assessed for twenty-two thousand acres as well as twenty-one thousand dollars in personal property.  Besides controlling various San Fernando ranches (once under B. H. Lancaro's management), Andr&eacute;s Pico possessed La Habra, a ranch of over six thousand acres, for which a patent was granted in 1872, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:the ranch Los Coyotes, including over forty-eight thousand acres, patented three years later; while Pio Pico at one time owned the Santa Margarita and Las Flores <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Henry C. Wiley must have arrived very early, as he had been in Los Angeles some years before I came.  He married a daughter of Andr&eacute;s Pico and for a while had charge of his San Fernando Ranch.  Wiley served, at one time, as Sheriff of the County.  He died in 1898.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Francisco Sanchez was another early <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>There were two large and important landowners, second cousins, known as Jos&eacute; Sep&uacute;lveda; the one, Don Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s, and the other, Don Jos&eacute; Loreto.  The father of Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s was Don Francisco Sep&uacute;lveda, a Spanish officer to whom the San Vicente Ranch had been granted; and Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s, born in San Diego in 1804, was the oldest of eleven children.  His brothers were Fernando, Jos&eacute; del Carmen, Dolores and Juan Maria; and he also had six sisters. To Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s, or Jos&eacute; as he was called, the San Joaqu&iacute;n Ranch was given, an enormous tract of land lying between the present Tustin, earlier known as Tustin City, and San Juan Capistrano, and running from the hills to the sea; while, on the death of Don Francisco, the San Vicente Ranch, later bought by Jones and Baker, was left to Jos&eacute; del Carmen, Dolores and Juan Maria. Jos&eacute;, in addition, bought eighteen hundred acres from Jos&eacute; Ant&oacute;nio Yorba, and on this newly-acquired property he built his ranchhouse, although he and his family may be said to have been more or less permanent residents of Los Angeles.  Fernando Sep&uacute;lveda married a Verdugo, and through her became proprietor of much of the Verdugo <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:. The fact that Jos&eacute; was so well provided for, and that Fernando had come into control of the Verdugo acres, made it mutually satisfactory that the San Vicente Ranch should have been willed to the other sons. The children of Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s included Miguel, Maur&iacute;cio, Bernab&eacute;, Joaqu&iacute;n, Andr&oacute;nico and Ygn&aacute;cio, and Francisca, wife of James Thompson, Tom&aacute;sa, wife of Frank Rico, Ramona, wife of Captain Salisbury Haley of the <HI REND="italics">Sea Bird</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Don Jos&eacute; Loreto, brother of Juan and Diego Sep&uacute;lveda, father of Mrs. John T. Lanfranco, and a well-known resident of Los Angeles County in early days, presided over the destinies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:of thirty-one thousand acres in the Palos Verdes <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, where Flores had stationed his soldiers to watch the American ship <HI REND="italics">Savannah</HI>
023.sgm:<P>There being no fences to separate the great ranches, cattle roamed at will; nor were the owners seriously concerned, for every man had his distinct, registered brand and in proper season the various herds were segregated by means of <HI REND="italics">rodeos</HI>
023.sgm:, or round-ups of strayed or mixed cattle.  On such occasions, all of the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm: within a certain radius drove their herds little by little into a corral designated for the purpose, and each selected his own cattle according to brand. After segregation had thus been effected, they were driven from the corral, followed by the calves, which were also branded, in anticipation of the next <HI REND="italics">rodeo</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Such round-ups were great events, for they brought all the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
023.sgm: together. They became the <HI REND="italics">raison d'etre</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The enormous herds of cattle gathered at <HI REND="italics">rodeos</HI>
023.sgm: remind me, in fact, of a danger that the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm: were obliged to contend with, especially when driving their stock from place to place: Indians stampeded the cattle, whenever possible, so that in the confusion those escaping the <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
023.sgm:<P>While writing of ranches, one bordering on the other, un-fenced and open, and the enormous number of horses and cattle, as well as men required to take care of such an amount of stock, I must not forget to mention an institution that had flourished, as a branch of the judiciary, in palmier Mexican days, though it was on the wane when I arrived here. This was the Judgeship of the Plains, an office charged directly with the interests of the ranchman. Judges of the Plains were officials delegated to arrange for the <HI REND="italics">rodeos</HI>
023.sgm:, and to hold informal court, in the saddle or on the open hillside, in order to settle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:disputes among, and dispense justice to, those living and working beyond the pales of the towns.  Under Mexican rule, a Judge of the Plains, who was more or less a law unto himself, served for glory and dignity (much as does an English Justice of the Peace); and the latter factor was an important part of the stipulation, as we may gather from a story told by early Angele&ntilde;os of the impeachment of Don Ant&oacute;nio Mar&iacute;a Lugo.  Don Ant&oacute;nio was then a Judge of the Plains, and as such was charged with having, while on horseback, nearly trampled upon Pedro Sanchez, for no other reason than that poor Pedro had refused to "uncover" while the Judge rode by, and to keep his hat off until his Honor was unmistakably out of sight! When, at length, Americans took possession of Southern California, Judges of the Plains were given less power, and provision was made, for the first time, for a modest <HI REND="italics">honorarium</HI>
023.sgm:<P>For nearly a couple of decades after the organization of Los Angeles under the incoming white pioneers, not very much was known of the vast districts inland and adjacent to Southern California; and one can well understand the interest felt by our citizens on July I 7th, 1855, when Colonel Washington, of the United States Surveying Expedition to the Rio Colorado, put up at the Bella Union on his way to San Francisco.  He was bombarded with questions about the region lying between the San Bernardino Mountain range and the Colorado, hitherto unexplored; and being a good talker, readily responded with much entertaining information.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In July, 1855, I attained my majority and, having by this time a fair command of English, I took a more active part in social affairs. Before he married Margarita, daughter of Juan Bandini, Dr. J. B. Winston, then interested in the Bella Union, organized most of the dances, and I was one of his committee of arrangements. We would collect from the young men of our acquaintance money enough to pay for candles and music; for each musician  playing either a harp, a guitar or a flute-charged from a dollar to a dollar and a half for his services. Formal social events occurred in the evening of almost any day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>These hops usually took place at the residence of Widow Blair, opposite the Bella Union and north of the present Post Office. There we could have a sitting-room, possibly eighteen by thirty feet square; and while this was larger than any other room in a private house in town, it will be realized that, after all, the space for dancing was very limited.  We made the best, however, of what we had; the refreshments, at these improvised affairs, were rarely more than lemonade and <HI REND="italics">olla</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Many times such dances followed as a natural termination to another social observance, transmitted to us, I have no doubt, by the romantic Spanish settlers here, and very popular for some time after I came. This good old custom was serenading. We would collect money, as if for dancing; and in the evening a company of young men and chaperoned young ladies would proceed in a body to some popular girl's home where, with innocent gallantry, the little band would serenade her. After that, of course, we were always glad to accept an invitation to come into the house, when the ladies of the household sometimes regaled us with a bit of cake and wine.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of the social life of those early days, when warm, stimulating friendships and the lack of all foolish caste distinctions rendered the occasions  delightfully pleasant, may it not be well to ask whether the contrast between those simple, inexpensive pleasures, and the elaborate and extravagant demands of modern society, is not worth sober thought? To be sure, Los Angeles then was exceedingly small, and pioneers here were much like a large family in plain, unpretentious circumstances.  There were no such ceremonies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1855, Dr. Thomas J. White, a native of St. Louis and Speaker of the Assembly in the first California Legislature convened at San Jos&eacute;, in December, 1849, arrived from San Francisco with his wife and two daughters, and bought a vineyard next to Dr. Hoover's ten-acre place where, in three or four years, he became one of the leading wine-producers.  Their advent created quite a stir, and the house, which was a fine and rather commodious one for the times, soon became the scene of extensive entertainments.  The addition of this highly-accomplished family was indeed  quite an accession to our social ranks.  Their hospitality compared favorably even with California's open-handed and open-hearted spirit, and soon became notable. Their evening parties and other receptions were both frequent and lavish, so that the Whites quickly took rank as leaders in Los Angeles.  While yet in Sacramento, one of the daughters, who had fallen in love with E. J. C. Kewen when the latter was a member of the White party in crossing the great Plains, married the Colonel; and in 1862, another daughter, Miss Jennie, married Judge Murray Morrison.  A son was T. Jeff White, who named his place <HI REND="italics">Casalinda</HI>
023.sgm:<P>It was long before Los Angeles had anything like a regular theater, or even enjoyed such shows as were provided by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:itinerant companies, some of which, when they did begin to come, stayed here for weeks; although I remember having heard of one ambitious group of players styling themselves <HI REND="italics">The Rough and Ready Theater</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In October, 1855, William Abbott, who was one of the many to come to Los Angeles in 1853, and who had brought with him a small stock of furniture, started a store in a little wooden house he had acquired on a lot next to that which later became the site of the Pico House.  Abbott married Do&ntilde;a Merced Garcia; and good fortune favoring him, he not only gradually enlarged his stock of goods, but built a more commodious building, in the upper story of which was the Merced Theater, named after Abbott's wife, and opened in the late sixties. The vanity of things mundane is well illustrated in the degeneration of this center of early histrionic effort, which entered a period of decay in the beginning of the eighties and, as the scene of disreputable dances, before 1890 had been pronounced a nuisance.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>During the first decade under the American <HI REND="italics">r&eacute;gime</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The school authorities of the past sometimes sailed on waters as troubled as those rocking the Educational Boards to-day.  I recall an amusing incident of the middle fifties, when a new set of Trustees, having succeeded to the control of affairs, were scandalized, or at least pretended to be, by an action of their predecessors, and immediately adopted the following resolution:  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Richard Laughlin died at his vineyard, on the east side of Alameda Street, in or soon after 1855. Like William Wolfskill, Ewing Young-who fitted out the Wolfskill party-and Moses Carson, brother of the better-known Kit and at one time a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>With the increase in the number and activity of the Chinese in California, the prejudice of the masses was stirred up violently.  This feeling found expression particularly in 1855, when a law was passed by the Legislature, imposing a fine of fifty dollars on each owner or master of a vessel bringing to California anyone incapable of becoming a citizen; but when suit was instituted, to test the act's validity, it was declared unconstitutional.  At that time, most of the opposition to the Chinese came from San Franciscans, there being but few coolies here.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Certain members of the same Legislature led a movement to form a new State, to be called Colorado and to include all the territory south of San Luis Obispo; and the matter was repeatedly discussed in several subsequent sessions.  Nothing came of it, however; but Kern County was formed, in 1866, partly from Los Angeles County and partly from Tulare. About five thousand square miles, formerly under our County banner, were thus legislated away; and because the mountainous and desert area seemed of little prospective value, we submitted willingly.  In this manner, unenlightened by modern science and ignorant of future possibilities, Southern California, guided by no clear and certain vision, drifted and stumbled along to its destiny.</P>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0064" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Los Angeles in the Late Fifties</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0065" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Myer J. Newmark</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0066" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Edward J. C. Kewen</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0067" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Dr. John S. Griffin</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0068" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">William C. Warren</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV<LB>ORCHARDS AND VINEYARDS<LB>1856</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>DURING 1856, I dissolved with my partners, Rich and Laventhal, and went into business with my uncle, Joseph  Newmark, J. P. Newmark and Maurice Kremer, under the title of Newmark, Kremer &amp; Company. Instead of a quasi wholesale business, we now had a larger assortment and did more of a retail business.  We occupied a room, about forty by eighty feet in size, in the Mascarel and Barri block on the south side of Commercial Street (then known as Commercial Row), between Main and Los Angeles streets, our modest establishment being almost directly opposite the contracted quarters of my first store and having the largest single storeroom then in the city; and there we continued with moderate success, until 1858.</P>
023.sgm:<P>To make this new partnership possible, Kremer had sold out his interest in the firm of Lazard &amp; Kremer, dry goods merchants, the readjustment providing an amusing illustration of the manner in which business, with its almost entire lack of specialization, was then conducted. When the stock was taken, a large part of it consisted, not of dry goods, as one might well suppose, but of--cigars and tobacco!</P>
023.sgm:<P>About the beginning of 1856, Sisters of Charity made their first appearance in Los Angeles, following a meeting called by Bishop Amat during the preceding month, to provide for their coming, when Abel Stearns presided and John G. Downey acted as Secretary.  Benjamin Hayes, Thomas Foster, Ezra Drown, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The so-called First Public School having met with popular approval, the Board of Education in 1856 opened another school on Bath Street. The building, two stories in height, was of brick and had two rooms.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On January 9th, John P. Brodie assumed charge of the <HI REND="italics">Southern Californian</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The first regular course of public lectures here was given in 1856 under the auspices of a society known as the Mechanics' Institute, and in one of Henry Dalton's corrugated iron buildings.</P>
023.sgm:<P>George T. Burrill, first County Sheriff, died on February 2d, his demise bringing to mind an interesting story.  He was Sheriff, in the summer of 1850, when certain members of the infamous Irving party were arraigned for murder, and during that time received private word that many of the prisoners' friends would pack the little court room and attempt a rescue. Burrill, however, who used to wear a sword and had a rather soldierly bearing, was equal to the emergency.  He quickly sent to Major E. H. Fitzgerald and had the latter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:come post-haste to town and court with a detachment of soldiers; and with this superior, disciplined force he overawed the bandits' <HI REND="italics">compa&ntilde;eros</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Thomas E. Rowan arrived here with his father, James Rowan, in 1856, and together they opened a bakery.  Tom delivered the bread for a short time, but soon abandoned that pursuit for politics, being frequently elected to office, serving in turn as Supervisor, City and County Treasurer and even, from 1893 to 1894, as Mayor of Los Angeles.  Shortly before Tom married Miss Josephine Mayerhofer in San Francisco in 1862-and a handsome couple they made--the Rowans bought from Louis Mesmer the American Bakery, located at the southwest corner of Main and First streets and originally established by August Ulyard.  When James Rowan died about forty years ago, Tom fell heir to the bakery; but as he was otherwise engaged, he employed Maurice Maur&iacute;cio as manager, and P. Galta, afterward a prosperous business man of Bakersfield, as driver.  Tom, who died in 1899, was also associated as cashier with I. W. Hellman and F. P. F. Temple in their bank.  Rowan Avenue and Rowan Street were both named after this early comer.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The time for the return of my brother and his European bride now approached, and I felt a natural desire to meet them.  Almost coincident, therefore, with their arrival in San Francisco, I was again in that growing city in 1856, although I had been there but the year previous.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On April 9th, occurred the marriage of Matilda, daughter of Joseph Newmark, to Maurice Kremer. The ceremony was performed by the bride's father. For the subsequent festivities, ice, from which ice cream was made, was brought from San Bernardino; both luxuries on this occasion being used in Los Angeles, as far as I can remember, for the first time.</P>
023.sgm:<P>To return to the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:.  When J. S. Waite became Postmaster, in 1855, he found it no sinecure to continue even such an unpretentious and, in all likelihood, unprofitable news-sheet and at the same time attend to Uncle Sam's mail-bags; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:and early in 1856 he offered "the entire establishment at one thousand dollars less than cost."  Business was so slow at that time, in fact, that Waite--after, perhaps, ruefully looking over his unpaid subscriptions--announced that he would "take wood, butter, eggs, flour, wheat or corn" in payment of bills due.  He soon found a ready customer in William A. Wallace, the Principal of the boys' school who, on the twelfth of April, bought the paper; but Waite's disgust was nothing to that of the schoolteacher who, after two short months' trial with the editorial quill, scribbled a last doleful <HI REND="italics">adi&oacute;s</HI>
023.sgm:. "The flush times of the pueblo, the day of large prices and pocketbooks, are past," Wallace declared; and before him the editor saw "only picayunes, bad liquor, rags and universal dullness,when neither pistol-shots nor dying groans" could have any effect, and "when earthquakes would hardly turn men in their beds!"  Nothing was left for such a destitute and discouraged quillman "but to wait for a <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1856, the many-sided Dr. William B. Osburn organized a company to bore an artesian well west of the city; but when it reached a depth of over seven hundred feet, the prospectors went into bankruptcy.</P>
023.sgm:<P>George Lehman, early known as George the Baker (whose shop at one time was on the site of the Hayward Hotel), was a somewhat original and very popular character who, in 1856, took over the Round House on Main Street, between Third and Fourth, and there opened a pleasure-resort extending to Spring Street and known as the Garden of Paradise.  The grounds really occupied on the one hand what are now the sites of the Pridham, the Pinney and the Turnverein, and on the other the Henne, the Breed and the Lankershim blocks. There was an entrance on Main Street and one, with two picket gates, on Spring.  From the general shape and appearance of the building, it was always one of the first objects in town <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:to attract attention; and Lehman (who, when he appeared on the street, had a crooked cane hanging on his arm and a lemon in his hand), came to be known as "Round House George." The house had been erected in the late forties by Raimundo, generally called Ram&oacute;n, or Raymond Alexander, a sailor, who asserted that the design was a copy of a structure he had once seen on the coast of Africa; and there Ram&oacute;n and his native California wife had lived for many years. Partly because he wished to cover the exterior with vines and flowers, Lehman nailed boards over the outer adobe walls and thus changed the cylinder form into that of an octagon.  An ingenious arrangement of the <HI REND="italics">parterre</HI>
023.sgm: and a peculiar distribution of some trees, together with a profusion of plants and flowers--affording cool and shady bowers, somewhat similar to those of a typical beer or wine garden of the Fatherland--gave the place great popularity; while two heroic statues--one of <HI REND="italics">Adam</HI>
023.sgm: and the other of Eve-with a conglomeration of other curiosities, including the <HI REND="italics">Apple Tree</HI>
023.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Serpent</HI>
023.sgm:<P>This leads me to say that Arthur McKenzie Dodson, who established a coal- and wood-yard at what was later the corner of Spring and Sixth streets, started there a little community which he called Georgetown--as a compliment, it was said, to the famous Round House George whose bakery, I have remarked, was located on that corner.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On June 7th, Dr. John S. Griffin, who had an old fashioned, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In these times of modern irrigation and scientific methods, it is hard to realize how disastrous were climatic extremes in an earlier day: in 1856, a single electric disturbance, accompanied by intense heat and sandstorms, left tens of thousands of dead cattle to tell the story of drought and destruction.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During the summer, I had occasion to go to Fort Tej&oacute;n to see George C. Alexander, a customer, and I again asked Sam Meyer if he would accompany me.  Such a proposition was always agreeable to Sam; and, having procured horses, we started, the distance being about one hundred and fifteen miles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>We left Los Angeles early one afternoon, and made our first stop at Lyons's Station, where we put up for the night. One of the brothers, after whom the place was named, prepared supper. Having to draw some thick blackstrap from a keg, he used a pitcher to catch the treacle; and as the liquid ran very slowly, our sociable host sat down to talk a bit, and soon forgot all about what he had started to do.  The molasses, however, although it ran pretty slowly, ran steadily, and finally, like the mush in the fairy-tale of the enchanted bowl, overflowed the top of the receptacle and spread itself over the dirt floor.  When Lyons had finished his chat, he saw, to his intense chagrin, a new job upon his hands, and one likely to busy him for some time.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Departing next morning at five o'clock we met Cy Lyons, who had come to Los Angeles in 1849 and was then engaged with his brother Sanford in raising sheep in that neighborhood. Cy was on horseback and had two pack animals, loaded with provisions.  "Hello, boys! where are you bound?" he asked; and when we told him that we were on our way to Fort Tej&oacute;n, he said that he was also going there, and volunteered to save us forty miles by guiding us over the trail. Such a shortening of our journey appealed to us as a good prospect, and we fell in behind the mounted guide.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It was one of those red-hot summer days characteristic of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:that region and season, and in a couple of hours we began to get very thirsty.  Noticing this, Cy told us that no water would be found until we got to the Rancho de la Liebre, and that we could not possibly reach there until evening.  Having no <HI REND="italics">bota de agua</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The night was so hot at the ranch that we decided to sleep outdoors in one of the wagons; and being worn out with the day's exposure and fatigue, we soon fell asleep. The soundness of our slumbers did not prevent us from hearing, in the middle of the night, a snarling bear, scratching in the immediate neighborhood. A bear generally means business; and you may depend upon it that neither Sam, myself nor even Cy were very long in bundling out of the wagon and making a dash for the more protecting house. Early next morning, we recommenced our journey toward Fort Tej&oacute;n, and reached there without any further adventures worth relating.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coming back, we stopped for the night at Gordon's Station, and the next day rode fully seventy miles-not so inconsiderable an accomplishment, perhaps, for those not accustomed to regular saddle exercise.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A few months later, I met Cy on the street.  "Harris, said he, "do you know that once, on that hot day going to Fort Tej&oacute;n, we were within three hundred feet of a fine, cool spring?" "Then why in the devil," I retorted, "didn't you take us to it?" To which Cy, with a chuckle, answered: "Well, I just wanted to see what would happen to you!"</P>
023.sgm:<P>My first experience with camp meetings was in the year 1856, when I attended one in company with Miss Sarah Newmark, to whom I was then engaged, and Miss Harriet, her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>It was in 1856 that, in connection with our regular business, we began buying hides.  One day a Mexican customer came into the store and, looking around, said: " <HI REND="italics">&iquest;Compra cueros</HI>
023.sgm:?" (Do you buy hides?) " <HI REND="italics">Si, se&ntilde;or</HI>
023.sgm:," I replied, to which he then said: " <HI REND="italics">Tengo muchos en mi rancho</HI>
023.sgm: " (I have many at my ranch). "Where do you live?" I asked.  "Between Cahuenga and San Fernando Mission," he answered. He had come to town in his <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I obtained a wagon and, accompanied by Samuel Cohn, went with the Mexican. The native jogged on, carreta-fashion, the oxen lazily plodding along, while the driver with his ubiquitous pole kept them in the road by means of continual and effective prods, delivered first on one side, then on the other. It was dark when we reached the ranch; and the night being balmy, we wrapped ourselves up in blankets, and slept under the adobe veranda.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Early in the morning, I awoke and took a survey of the premises.  To my amazement, I saw but one little kipskin hanging up to dry!   When at length my Mexican friend appeared on the scene, I asked him where he kept his hides? ( <HI REND="italics">&iquest;Donde tiene usted los cueros?</HI>
023.sgm: )  At which he pointed to the lone kip and, with a characteristic and perfectly indifferent shrug of the shoulders, said: " <HI REND="italics">&iexcl;No tengo m&aacute;s</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I then deliberated with Sam as to what we should do; and having proceeded to San Fernando Mission to collect there, if possible, a load of hides, we were soon fortunate in obtaining enough to compensate us for our previous trouble and disappointment. On the way home, we came to a rather deep ditch preventing further progress.  Being obliged, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In this connection, I may remind the reader of Dana's statement, in his celebrated <HI REND="italics">Two Years before the Mast</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel Isaac Williams died on September 13th, having been a resident of Los Angeles and vicinity nearly a quarter of a century. A Pennsylvanian by birth, he had with him in the West a brother, Hiram, later of San Bernardino County. Happy as was most of Colonel Williams' life, tragedy entered his family circle, as I shall show, when both of his sons-in-law, John Rains and Robert Carlisle, met violent deaths at the hands of others.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jean Louis Vignes came to Los Angeles in 1829, and set out the Aliso Vineyard of one hundred and four acres which derived its name, as did the street, from a previous and incorrect application of the Castilian <HI REND="italics">aliso</HI>
023.sgm:, meaning alder, to the sycamore tree, a big specimen of which stood on the place.  This tree, possibly a couple of hundred years old, long shaded Vignes' wine-cellars, and was finally cut down a few years ago to make room for the Philadelphia Brew House.  From a spot about fifty feet away from the Vignes adobe extended a grape arbor perhaps ten feet in width and fully a quarter of a mile long, thus reaching to the river; and this arbor was associated with many of the early celebrations in Los Angeles.  The northern boundary of the property was Aliso Street; its western boundary was Alameda; and part of it was surrounded by a high adobe wall, inside of which, during the troubles of the Mexican War, Don Louis enjoyed a far safer seclusion than many others.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>While upon the subject of this substantial old pioneer family, I may give a rather interesting reminiscence as to the state of Aliso Street at this time.  I have said that this street was the main road from Los Angeles to the San Bernardino country; and so it was. But in the fifties, Aliso Street stopped very abruptly at the Sainsevain Vineyard, where it narrowed down to one of the willow-bordered, picturesque little lanes so frequently found here, and paralleled the noted grape-arbor as far as the river-bank. At this point, Andrew Boyle and other residents of the Heights and beyond were wont to cross the stream on their way to and from town. The more important travel was by means of another lane known as the Aliso Road, turning at a corner occupied by the old Aliso Mill and winding along the Hoover Vineyard to the river. Along this route the San Bernardino stage rolled noisily, traversing in summer or during a poor season what was an almost dry wash, but encountering in wet winter raging torrents so impassable that all intercourse with the settlements to the east was disturbed.  For a whole week, on several occasions, the San Bernardino stage was tied up, and once at least Andrew Boyle, before he had become conversant with the vagaries of the Los Angeles River, found it impossible for the better part of a fortnight to come to town for the replenishment of a badly-depleted larder. Lovers' Lane, willowed and deep with dust, was a narrow road now variously located in the minds of pioneers; my impression being that it followed the line of the present Date Street, although some insist that it was Macy.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pierre Sainsevain, a nephew of Vignes, came in 1839 and for a while worked for his uncle.  Jean Louis Sainsevain, another nephew, arrived in Los Angeles in 1849 or soon after, and on April 14th, 1855, purchased for forty-two thousand dollars the vineyard, cellars and other property of his uncle. This was the same year in which he returned to France for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The activity of these Frenchmen reminds me that much usually characteristic of country life was present in what was called the city of Los Angeles, when I first saw it, as may be gathered from the fact that, in 1853, there were a hundred or more vineyards hereabouts, seventy-five or eighty of which were within the city precincts. These did not include the once famous "mother vineyard" of San Gabriel Mission, which the <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
023.sgm: used to claim had about fifty thousand vines, but which had fallen into somewhat picturesque decay. Near San Gabriel, however, in 1855, William M. Stockton had a large vineyard nursery. William Wolfskill was one of the leading vineyardists, having set out his first vine, so it was said, in 1838, when he affirmed his belief that the plant, if well cared for, would flourish a hundred years!  Don Jos&eacute; Serrano, from whom Dr. Leonce Hoover bought many of the grapes he needed, did have vines, it was declared, that were nearly a century old.  When I first passed through San Francisco, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>With the decline in the fresh fruit trade, however, the making and exportation of wine increased, and several who had not ventured into vineyarding before, now did so, acquiring their own land or an interest in the establishments of others. By 1857, Jean Louis Vignes boasted of possessing some white wine twenty years old--possibly of the same vintage about which Dr. Griffin often talked, in his reminiscences of the days when he had been an army surgeon; and Louis Wilhart occasionally sold wine which was little inferior to that of Jean Louis.  Dr. Hoover was one of the first to make wine for the general market, having, for a while, a pretty and well-situated place called the Clayton Vineyard; and old Joseph Huber, who had come to California from Kentucky for his health, began in 1855 to make wine with considerable success. He owned the Foster Vineyard, where he died in July, 1866.  B. D. Wilson was also soon shipping wine to San Francisco. L. J. Rose, who first entered the field in January, 1861, at Sunny Slope, not far from San Gabriel Mission, was another producer, and had a vineyard famous for brandy and wine.  He made a departure in going to the foothills, and introduced many varieties of foreign grapes.  By the same year, or somewhat previously, Matthew Keller, Stearns &amp; Bell, Dr. Thomas J. White, Dr. Parrott, Kiln Messer, Henry Dalton, H. D. Barrows, Juan Bernard and Ricardo Vejar had wineries, and John Schumacher had a vineyard opposite the site of the City Gardens in the late seventies, L. H. Titus, in time, had a vineyard, known as the Dewdrop, near that of Rose.  Still another wine producer was Ant&oacute;nio Mar&iacute;a Lugo, who set out his vines on San Pedro Street, near the present Second, and often dwelt in the long adobe house where both Steve Foster, Lugo's son-in-law, and Mrs. Wallace Woodworth lived, and where I have been many times pleasantly entertained.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. Leonce Hoover, who died on October 8th, 1862, was a native of Switzerland and formerly a surgeon in the army of Napoleon, when his name--later changed at the time of naturalization--had been Huber.  Dr. Hoover in 1849 came to Los Angeles with his wife, his son, Vincent A. Hoover, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:then a young man, and two daughters, the whole family traveling by ox-team and prairie schooner.  They soon discovered rich <HI REND="italics">placer</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Accompanied by his son William, Joseph Huber, Sr., in 1855 came to Los Angeles from Kentucky, hoping to improve his health; and then the other members of his family, consisting of his wife and children, Caroline, Emeline, Edward and Joseph, followed him here, in 1859, by way of New York and the Isthmus, they found him settled as a vineyardist, occupying the Foster property running from Alameda Street to the river, in a section between Second and Sixth streets.  The advent of a group of young people, so well qualified to add to what has truthfully been described by old-time Angele&ntilde;os as our family circle, was hailed with a great deal of interest and satisfaction. In time, Miss Emeline Huber was married to O. W. Childs, and Miss Caroline was wedded to Dr. Frederick Preston Howard, a druggist who, more than forty years ago, bought out Theodore Wollweber, selling the business back to the latter a few years later.  The prominence of this family made it comparatively easy for Joseph Huber, Jr., in 1865, to secure the nomination and be elected County Treasurer, succeeding M. Kremer, who had served six years.  Huber, Sr., died about the middle sixties. Mrs. Huber lived to be eighty-three years old.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; de R&uacute;bio had at least two vineyards when I came--one on Alameda Street, south of Wolfskill's and not far from Coronel's, and one on the east side of the river. R&uacute;bio came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:here very early in the century, after having married Juana, a daughter of Juan Maria Miron, a well-known sea captain, and built three adobe houses. The first of these was on the site of the present home of William H. Workman, on Boyle Heights; the second was near what was later the corner of Alameda and Eighth streets, and the third was on Alameda Street near the present Vernon Avenue.  One of his ranches was known as "R&uacute;bio's," and there many a barbecue was celebrated. In 1859, R&uacute;bio leased the Sep&uacute;lveda Landing, at San Pedro, and commenced to haul freight, to and fro.  Se&ntilde;or and Se&ntilde;ora R&uacute;bio<ANCHOR ID="n14-16">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-16">Se&ntilde;ora de R&uacute;bio survived her husband many years, dying on October 27th, 1914, at the age of one hundred and seven, after residing in Los Angeles ninety-four years.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Julius Weyse also had a vineyard, living on what is now Eighth Street near San Pedro. A son, H. G. Weyse, has distinguished himself as an attorney and has served in the Legislature; another, Otto G., married the widow of Edward Naud, while a third son, Rudolf G., married a daughter of H. D. Barrows.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Reyes family was prominent here; a daughter married William Nordholt.  Ysidro had a vineyard on Washington Street; and during one of the epidemics, he died of smallpox. His brother, Pablo, was a rancher.</P>
023.sgm:<P>While on the subject of vineyards, I may describe the method by which wine was made here in the early days and the part taken in the industry by the Indians, who always interested and astounded me. Stripped to the skin, and wearing only loin-cloths, they tramped with ceaseless tread from morn till night, pressing from the luscious fruit of the vineyard the juice so soon to ferment into wine. The grapes were placed in elevated vats from which the liquid ran into other connecting vessels; and the process exhaled a stale acidity, scenting the surrounding air.  These Indians were employed in the early fall, the season of the year when wine is made and when the thermometer as a rule, in Southern California, reaches its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A staple article of food for the Indians in 1856, by the way, was the acorn.  The crop that year, however, was very short; and streams having also failed, in many instances, to yield the food usually taken from them, the tribes were in a distressed condition.  Such were the aborigines' straits, in fact, that <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In telling of the Sisters of Charity, I have forgotten to add that, after settling here, they sent to New York for a portable house, which they shipped to Los Angeles by way of Cape Horn.  In due time, the house arrived; but imagine their vexation on discovering that, although the parts were supposed to have been marked so that they might easily be joined together, no one here could do the work.  In the end, the Sisters were compelled to send East for a carpenter who, after a long interval, arrived and finished the house.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Soon after the organization of a Masonic lodge here, in 1854, many of my friends joined, and among them my brother, J. P. Newmark, who was admitted on February 26th, 1855, on which occasion J. H. Stuart was the Secretary; and through their participation in the celebration of St. John's Day (the twenty-fourth of June,) I was seized with a desire to join the order. This I did at the end of 1856, becoming a member of Los Angeles Lodge No. 42, whose meetings were held over Potter's store on Main Street. Worshipful Master Thomas Foster initiated me, and on January 22d, 1857, Worshipful Master Jacob Elias officiating, I took the third degree. I am, therefore, in all probability, the oldest living member of this now venerable Masonic organization.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV<LB>SHERIFF BARTON AND THE <HI REND="italics">BANDIDOS</HI>
023.sgm:  <LB>1857</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>IN the beginning of 1857, we had a more serious earthquake than any in recent years. At half-past eight o'clock on the morning of January 9th, a tremor shook the earth from North to South; the first shocks being light, the quake grew in power until houses were deserted, men, women and children sought refuge in the streets, and horses and cattle broke loose in wild alarm.  For perhaps two, or two and a half minutes, the <HI REND="italics">temblor</HI>
023.sgm: continued and much damage was done. Los Angeles felt the disturbance far less than many other places, although five to six shocks were noted and twenty times during the week people were frightened from their homes; at Temple's <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: and at Fort Tej&oacute;n great rents were opened in the earth and then closed again, piling up a heap or dune of finely.powdered stone and dirt. Large trees were uprooted and hurled down the hillsides; and tumbling after them went the cattle.  Many officers, including Colonel B. L. Beall--well known in Los Angeles social circles--barely escaped from the barracks with their lives; and until the cracked adobes could be repaired, officers and soldiers lived in tents.  It was at this time, too, that a so-called tidal wave almost engulfed the <HI REND="italics">Sea Bird</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>This year also proved a dry season; and, consequently, times became very bad. With two periods of adversity, even the richest of the cattle-kings felt the pinch, and many began to part with their lands in order to secure the relief needed to tide them over. The effects of drought continued until 1858, although some good influences improved business conditions.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Due to glowing accounts of the prospects for conquest and fortune given out by Henry A. Crabb, a Stockton lawyer who married a Spanish woman with relatives in Sonora, a hundred or more filibusters gathered in Los Angeles, in January, to meet Crabb at San Pedro, when he arrived from the North on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Sea Bird</HI>
023.sgm:.  They strutted about the streets here, displaying rifles and revolvers; and this would seem to have been enough to prevent their departure for Sonita, a little town a hundred miles beyond Yuma, to which they finally tramped.  The filibusters were permitted to leave, however, and they invaded the foreign soil; but Crabb made a mess of the undertaking, even failing in blowing up a little church he attacked; and those not killed in the skirmish were soon surrounded and taken prisoners.  The next morning, Crabb and some others who had paraded so ostentatiously while here, were tied to trees or posts, and summarily executed. Crabb's body was riddled with a hundred bullets and his head cut off and sent back in <HI REND="italics">mescal</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In January, also, when threats were made against the white population of Southern California, Mrs. Griffin, the wife of Dr. J. S. Griffin, came running, in all excitement, to the home of Joseph Newmark, and told the members of the family to lock all their doors and bolt their windows, as it was reported that some of the outlaws were on their way to Los Angeles, to murder the white people. As soon as possible, the ladies of the Griffin, Nichols, Foy, Mallard, Workman, Newmark and other families were brought together for greater safety in Armory Hall, on Spring Street near Second, while the men took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A still vivid impression of this startling episode recalls an Englishman, a Dr. Carter, who arrived here some three years before.  He lived on the east side of Main Street near First, where the McDonald Block now stands; and while not prominent in his profession, he associated with some estimable families. When others were volunteering for sentry-work or to fight, the Doctor very gallantly offered his services as a Committee of One to care for the ladies--far from the firing line!</P>
023.sgm:<P>On hearing of these threats by native <HI REND="italics">bandidos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A large band of Mexican outlaws, led by Pancho Daniel, a convict who had escaped from San Quentin prison, and including Luciano Tap&iacute;a and Juan Flores, on January 22d had killed a German storekeeper named George W. Pflugardt, in San Juan Capistrano, while he was preparing his evening meal;and after having placed his body on the table, they sat around and ate what the poor victim had provided for himself.  Or the same occasion, these outlaws plundered the stores of Manuel Garcia, Henry Charles and Miguel Kragevsky or Kraszewski the last named escaping by hiding under a lot of wash in large clothes-basket  When the news of this murder reached Los Angeles, excitement rose to fever-heat and we prepared for something more than defense.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jim Barton, accompanied by William H. Little and Charles</P>
023.sgm:<P>K. Baker, both constables, Charles F. Daley, an early black-smith here, Alfred Hardy and Frank Alexander--all volunteers--left that evening for San Juan Capistrano, to capture the murderers, and soon arrived at the San Joaquin Ranch, about eighteen miles from San Juan. There Don Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s Sep&uacute;lveda told Barton of a trap set for him, and that the robbers outnumbered his <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
023.sgm:, two to one; and urged him to send back to Los Angeles for more volunteers.  Brave but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>When Los Angeles was apprised of this second tragedy, the frenzy was indescribable, and steps were taken toward the formation of both a Committee of Safety and a Vigilance Committee--the latter to avenge the foul deed and to bring in the culprits.  In meeting this emergency, the El Monte boys, as usual, took an active part.  The city was placed under martial law, and Dr. John S. Griffin was put in charge of the local defenses.  Suspicious houses, thought to be headquarters for robbers and thieves, were searched; and forty or fifty persons were arrested.  The State Legislature was appealed to and at once voted financial aid.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Although the Committee of Safety had the assistance of special foot police in guarding the city, the citizens made a requisition on Fort Tej&oacute;n, and fifty soldiers were sent from that post to help pursue the band.  Troops from San Diego, with good horses and plenty of provisions, were also placed at the disposition of the Los Angeles authorities.  Companies of mounted Rangers were made up to scour the country, American, German and French citizens vying with one another for the honor of risking their lives; one such company being formed at El Monte, and another at San Bernardino. There were also two detachments of native Californians; but many Sonorans and Mexicans from other States, either from sympathy or fear, aided the murdering robbers and so made their pursuit doubly difficult.  However, the outlaws were pursued far into the mountains; and although the first party sent out returned without effecting anything (reporting that the desperadoes were not far from San Juan and that the horses of the pursuers had given out) practically all of the band, as will be seen, were eventually captured.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Not only were vigorous measures taken to apprehend and punish the murderers, but provision was made to rescue the bodies of the slain, and to give them decent and honorable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:burial.  The next morning, after nearly one hundred mounted and armed men had set out to track the fugitives, another party, also on horseback, left to escort several wagons filled with coffins, in which they hoped to bring back the bodies of Sheriff Barton and his comrades.  In this effort, the <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
023.sgm: succeeded; and when the remains were received in Los Angeles on Sunday about noon, the city at once went into mourning.  All business was suspended, and the impressive burial ceremonies, conducted on Monday, were attended by the citizens <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
023.sgm:<P>General Andr&eacute;s Pico, with a company of native mounted Californians, who left immediately after the funeral, was especially prominent in running down the outlaws, thus again displaying his natural gift of leadership; and others fitted themselves out and followed as soon as they could.  General Pico knew both land and people; and on capturing Silvas and Ardillero, two of the worst of the <HI REND="italics">bandidos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the pursuit of the murderers, James Thompson (successor, in the following January, to the murdered Sheriff Getman) led a company of horsemen toward the Tejunga; and at the Simi Pass, high upon the rocks, he stationed United States soldiers as a lookout. Little San Gabriel, in which J. F. Burns, as Deputy Sheriff, was on the watch, also made its contribution to the restoration of order and peace; for some of its people captured and executed three or four of Daniels's and Flores's band.  Flores was caught on the top of a peak in the Santiago range; all in all, some fifty-two culprits were brought to Los Angeles and lodged in jail; and of that number eleven were lynched or legally hung.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When the Vigilance Committee had jailed a suspected murderer, the people were called to sit in judgment. We met <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:near the veranda of the Montgomery, and Judge Jonathan R. Scott having been made Chairman, a regular order of procedure, extra-legal though it was, was followed; after announcing the capture, and naming the criminal, the Judge called upon the crowd to determine the prisoner's fate.  Thereupon some one would shout: " <HI REND="italics">Hang him</HI>
023.sgm:<P>And the citizens present unanimously answered, <HI REND="italics">Aye</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Having thus expressed their will, the assemblage proceeded to the jail, a low, adobe building behind the little Municipal and County structure, and easily subdued the jailer, Frank J. Carpenter, whose daughter, Josephine, became Frank Burns's second wife.  The prisoner was then secured, taken from his cell, escorted to Fort Hill--a rise of ground behind the jail--where a temporary gallows had been constructed, and promptly despatched; and after each of the first batch of culprits had there successively paid the penalty for his crime, the avengers quietly dispersed to their homes to await the capture and dragging in of more cutthroats.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Among those condemned by vote at a public meeting in the way I have described, was Juan Flores, who was hanged on February 14th, 1857, well up on Fort Hill, in sight of such a throng that it is hardly too much to say that practically every man, woman and child in the pueblo was present, not to mention many people drawn by curiosity from various parts of the State who had flocked into town. Flores was but twenty-one years of age; yet, the year previous he had been sent to prison for horse-stealing. At the same time that Flores was executed, Miguel Blanco, who had stabbed the militiaman, Captain W. W. Twist, in order to rob him of a thousand dollars, was also hanged.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Espinosa and Lopez, two members of the robber band, for a while eluded their pursuers. At San Buenaventura, however, they were caught, and on the following morning, Espinosa was hung.  Lopez again escaped; and it was not until February 16th that he was finally recaptured and despatched to other realms.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Two days after Juan Flores was sent to a warmer clime, Luciano Tap&iacute;a and Thomas King were executed.  Tap&iacute;a's case was rather regrettable, for he had been a respectable laborer at San Luis Obispo until Flores, meeting him, persuaded him to abandon honest work.  Tap&iacute;a came to Los Angeles, joined the robber band and was one of those who helped to kill Sheriff Barton.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1857, the Sisters of Charity founded the Los Angeles Infirmary, the first regular hospital in the city, with Sister Ana, for years well known here, as Sister Superior. For a while, temporary quarters were taken in the house long occupied by Don Mar&iacute;a Aguilar and family, which property the Sisters soon purchased; but the next year they bought some land from Don Luis Arenas, adjoining Don Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s Sep&uacute;lveda's, and were thus enabled to enlarge the hospital. Their service being the best, in time they were enabled to acquire a good-sized, two-story building of brick, in the upper part of the city; and there their patients enjoyed the refreshing and health-restoring environment of garden and orchard.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It was not until this year that, on the corner of Alameda and Bath streets, Oscar Macy, City Treasurer in 1887-88, opened the first public bath house, having built a water-wheel with small cans attached to the paddles, to dip water up from the Alameda <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1857, the steamship <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Despite the inconvenience and expense of obtaining water for the home, it was not until February 24th that Judge W. G. Dryden--who, with a man named McFadden, had established the nucleus of a system--was granted a franchise to distribute water from his land, and to build a water-wheel in the <HI REND="italics">zanja madre</HI>
023.sgm:.  The Dryden, formerly known as the &Aacute;bila Springs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:and later the source of the Beaudry supply, were near the site selected for the San Fernando Street Railway Station; and from these springs water was conveyed by a <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
023.sgm:<P>So infrequently did we receive intelligence from the remoter parts of the world throughout the fifties that sometimes a report, especially if apparently authentic, when finally it reached here, created real excitement.  I recall, more or less vividly, the arrival of the stages from the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles schools were then open only part of the year, the School Board being compelled, in the spring, to close them for want of money.  William Wolfskill, however, rough pioneer though he was, came to the Board's rescue.  He was widely known as an advocate of popular education, having, as I have said, his own private teachers; and to his lasting honor, he gave the Board sufficient funds to make possible the reopening of one of the schools.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1857, I again revisited San Francisco.  During the four years since my first visit a complete metamorphosis had taken place.  Tents and small frame structures were being largely replaced with fine buildings of brick and stone; many of the sand dunes had succumbed to the march of improvement; gardens were much more numerous, and the uneven character of streets and sidewalks had been wonderfully improved. In a word, the spirit of Western progress was asserting itself, and the city by the Golden Gate was taking on a decidedly metropolitan appearance.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding various attempts at citrus culture in Southern California, some time elapsed before there was much of an orange or lemon industry in this vicinity. In 1854, a Dr. Halsey started an orange and lime nursery, on the Rowland <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1857, a group of Germans living in San Francisco bought twelve hundred acres of waste, sandy land, at two dollars an acre, from Don Pac&iacute;fico Onteveras, and on it started the town of Anaheim--a name composed of the Spanish <HI REND="italics">Ana</HI>
023.sgm:, from Santa Ana, and the German <HI REND="italics">Heim</HI>
023.sgm:, for home; and this was the first settlement in the county founded after my arrival. This land formed a block about one and a quarter miles square, some three miles from the Santa Ana River, and five miles from the residence of Don Bernardo Yorba, from whom the company received special privileges.  A. Langenberger, a German, who married Yorba's daughter, was probably one of the originators of the Anaheim plan; at any rate, his influence with his father-in-law was of value to his friends in completing the deal. There were fifty shareholders, who paid seven hundred and fifty dollars each, with an Executive Council composed of Otmar Caler, President; G. Charles Kohler, Vice-President; Cyrus Beythien, Treasurer; and John Fischer, Secretary; while John Fr&ouml;hling, R. Emerson, Felix Bachman, who was a kind of Sub-treasurer, and Louis Jazyinsky, made up the Los Angeles Auditing Committee.  George Hansen, afterward the colony's Superintendent, surveyed the tract and laid it out in fifty twenty-acre lots, with streets and a public park; around it a live fence of some forty to fifty thousand willow cuttings, placed at intervals of a couple of feet, was planted. A main canal, six to seven miles long, with a fall of fifteen to twenty feet, brought abundant water from the Santa Ana <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Hermann Heinsch, a native of Prussia, arrived in Los Angeles in 1857 and soon after engaged in the harness and saddlery business. On March 8th, 1863, he was married to Mary Haap.  Having become proficient at German schools in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Major Walter Harris Harvey, a native of Georgia once a cadet at West Point, but dismissed for his pranks (who about the middle of the fifties married Eleanor, eldest full sister of John G. Downey, and became the father of J. Downey Harvey, now living in San Francisco), settled in California shortly after the Mexican War.  During the first week in May, 1857, or some four years before he died, Major Harvey arrived from Washington with an appointment as Register of the Land Office, in place of H. P. Dorsey.  At the same time, Don Agustin Olvera was appointed Receiver, in lieu of General Andr&eacute;s Pico.  These and other rotations in office were due, of course, to national administration changes, President Buchanan having recently been inaugurated.</P>
023.sgm:<P>One of the interesting legal inquiries of the fifties was conducted in 1857 when, in the District Court here, Ant&oacute;nio Mar&iacute;a Lugo, crowned with the white of seventy-six winters, testified, at a hearing to establish certain claims to land, as to what he knew of old <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Charles Henry Forbes, who was born at the Mission San Jos&eacute;, came to Los Angeles County in 1857 and, though but twenty-two years old, was engaged by Don Abel Stearns to superintend his various <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
023.sgm:, becoming Stearns's business manager in 1866, with a small office on the ground-floor of the Arcadia Block.  In 1864, Forbes married Do&ntilde;a Luisa <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>As I have intimated, the principal industry throughout Los Angeles County, and indeed throughout Southern California, up to the sixties, was the raising of cattle and horses--an undertaking favored by a people particularly fond of leisure and knowing little of the latent possibilities in the land; so that this entire area of magnificent soil supported herds which provided the whole population in turn, directly or indirectly, with a livelihood.  The live stock subsisted upon the grass growing wild all over the county, and the prosperity of Southern California therefore depended entirely upon the season's rainfall. This was true to a far greater extent than one might suppose, for water-development had received no attention outside of Los Angeles. If the rainfall was sufficient to produce feed, dealers came from the North and purchased our stock, and everybody thrived; if, on the other hand, the season was dry, cattle and horses died and the public's pocket-book shrank to very unpretentious dimensions. As an incident in even a much later period than that which I here have in mind, I can distinctly remember that I would rise three or four times during a single meal to see if the overhanging clouds had yet begun to give that rain which they had seemed to promise, and which was so vital to our prosperity.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As for rain, I am reminded that every newspaper in those days devoted much space to weather reports or, rather, to gossip about the weather at other points along the Coast, as well as to the consequent prospects here.  The weather was the one determining factor in the problem of a successful or a disastrous season, and became a very important theme when ranchers and others congregated at our store.</P>
023.sgm:<P>And here I may mention, <HI REND="italics">&agrave; propos</HI>
023.sgm: of this matter of rainfall and its general effects, that there were millions of ground-squirrels all over this country that shared with other animals <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The raising of sheep had not yet developed any importance at the time of my arrival; most of the mutton then consumed in Los Angeles coming from Santa Cruz Island, in the Santa B&aacute;rbara Channel, though some was brought from San Clemente and Santa Catalina islands.  On the latter, there was a herd of from eight to ten thousand sheep in which Oscar Macy later acquired an interest; and L. Harris, father-in-law of H. W. Frank, the well- and favorably-known President and member of the Board of Education, also had extensive herds there. They ran wild and needed very little care, and only semi-yearly visits were made to look after the shearing, packing and shipping of the wool.  Santa Cruz Island had much larger herds, and steamers running to and from San Francisco often stopped there to take on sheep and sheep-products.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Catalina Island, for years the property of Don Mar&iacute;a Covarr&uacute;bias--and later of the eccentric San Francisco pioneer James Lick, who crossed the plains in the same party with the Lanfranco brothers and tried to induce them to settle in the North--was not far from San Clemente; and there, throughout the extent of her hills and vales, roamed herd after herd of wild goats.  Early seafarers, I believe it has been suggested, accustomed to carry goats on their sailing vessels, for a supply of milk, probably deposited some of the animals on Catalina; but however that may be, hunting parties to this day explore the mountains in search of them.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Considering, therefore, the small number of sheep here about 1853, it is not uninteresting to note that, according to old records of San Gabriel for the winter of 1828-29, there were then at the Mission no less than fifteen thousand sheep; while in 1858, on the other hand, according to fairly accurate reports, there were fully twenty thousand sheep in Los Angeles County. Two years later, the number had doubled.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>George Carson, a New Yorker who came here in 1852, and after whom Carson Station is named, was one of the first to engage in the sheep industry.  Soon after he arrived, he went into the livery business, to which he gave attention even when in partnership successively with Sanford, Dean and Hicks in the hardware business, on Commercial Street.  On July 30th, 1857, Carson married Do&ntilde;a Victoria, a daughter of Manuel Dominguez; but it was not until 1864 that, having sold out his two business interests (the livery to George Butler and the hardware to his partner), he moved to the ranch of his father-in-law, where he continued to live, assisting Dominguez with the management of his great property.  Some years later, Carson bought four or five hundred acres of land adjoining the Dominguez acres and turned his attention to sheep.  Later still, he became interested in the development of thoroughbred cattle and horses, but continued to help his father-in-law in the directing of his ranch. When rain favored the land, Carson, in common with his neighbors, amassed wealth; but during dry years he suffered disappointment and loss, and on one occasion was forced to take his flocks, then consisting of ten thousand sheep, to the mountains, where he lost all but a thousand head. It cost him ten thousand dollars to save the latter, which amount far exceeded their value. In this movement of stock, he took with him, as his lieutenant, a young Mexican named Martin Cruz whom he had brought up on the <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Almost indescribable excitement followed the substantiated reports, received in the fall of 1857, that a train of emigrants from Missouri and Arkansas, on their way to California, had been set upon by Indians, near Mountain Meadow, Utah, on September 7th, and that thirty-six members of the party had been brutally killed.  Particularly were the Gentiles of the Southwest stirred up when it was learned that the assault had been planned and carried through by one Lee, a Mormon, whose act sprang rather from the frenzy of a madman than from the deliberation of a well-balanced mind.  The attitude <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1857, J. G. Nichols was re&euml;lected Mayor of Los Angeles, and began several improvements he had previously advocated, especially the irrigating of the plain below the city. By August 2d, <HI REND="italics">Zanja</HI>
023.sgm:<P>One of the passengers that left San Francisco with me for San Pedro on October 18th, 1853, who later became a successful citizen of Southern California, was Edward N. McDonald, a native of New York State. We had sailed from New York together, and together had finished the long journey to the Pacific Coast, after which I lost track of him. McDonald had intended proceeding farther south, and I was surprised at meeting him on the street, some weeks after my arrival, in Los Angeles.  Reaching San Pedro, he contracted to enter the service of Alexander &amp; Banning, and remained with Banning for several years, until he formed a partnership with John O. Wheeler's brother, who later went to Japan.  McDonald, subsequently raised sheep on a large scale and acquired much ranch property; and in 1876, he built the block on Main Street bearing his name.  Sixteen years later, he erected another structure, opposite the first one.  When McDonald died at Wilmington, on June 10th, 1899, he left his wife an estate valued at about one hundred and sixty thousand dollars which must have increased in value, since then, many fold.</P>
023.sgm:<P>N. A. Potter, a Rhode Islander, came to Los Angeles in 1855, bringing with him a stock of Yankee goods and opening a store; and two years later he bought a two-story brick <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Possibly the first instance of an Angele&ntilde;o proffering a gift to the President of the United States--and that, too, of something characteristic of this productive soil and climate--was when Henry D. Barrows, in September, called on President Buchanan, in Washington and, on behalf of William Wolfskill, Don Manuel Requena and himself, gave the Chief Executive some California fruit and wine.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have before me a Ledger of the year 1857; it is a medium-sized volume bound in leather, and on the outside cover is inscribed, in the bold, old-fashioned handwriting of fifty-odd years ago, the simple legend,</P>
023.sgm:<P>NEWMARK, KREMER &amp; COMPANY</P>
023.sgm:<P>Each page is headed with the name of some still-remembered worthy of that distant day who was a customer of the old firm; and in 1857, a customer was always a friend. According to the method of that period the accounts are closed, not with balancing entries and red lines but, in the blackest of black ink, with the good, straightforward and positive inscription, <HI REND="italics">Settled</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The perusal of this old book carries me back over the vanished years. As the skull in the hand of the ancient monk, so does this antiquated volume recall to me how transitory is this life and all its affairs.  A few remain to tell a younger generation the story of the early days; but the majority, even as in 1857 they carefully balanced their scores in this old Ledger, have now closed their accounts in the great Book of Life. They have settled with their heaviest Creditor; they have gone before Him to render their last account.  With few or no exceptions, they were a manly, sterling race, and I have no doubt that He found their assets far greater than their liabilities.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI<LB>MARRIAGE--THE BUTTERFIELD STAGES <LB>1858</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>IN January, 1858, I engaged, in the sheep business.  After some investigation, I selected and purchased for an insignificant sum, just west of the present Hollenbeck Home on Boyle Avenue, a convenient site, which consisted of twenty acres of land, through which a ditch conducted water to Don Felipe Lugo's San Ant&oacute;nio <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Despite the fact that there was an adobe on the land, I could not dispose of the property at any price.  One day a half-breed known as the Chicken Thief called on me and offered a dozen chickens for the adobe, but--not a chicken for the land!  Stealing chickens was this man's profession; and I suppose that he offered me the medium of exchange he was most accustomed to have about him.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sheriff William C. Getman had been warned, in the tragic days of 1858, to look out for a maniac named Reed; but almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Such trouble with men inclined to use firearms too freely was not confined to maniacs or those bent on revenge or robbery.  On one occasion, for example, about 1858, while passing along the street I observed Gabriel Allen, known among his intimates as Gabe Allen, a veteran of the War with Mexico, and some years later a Supervisor  on one of his jollifications, with Sheriff Getman following close at his heels. Having arrived in front of a building, Gabe suddenly raised his gun and aimed at a carpenter who was at work on the roof. Getman promptly knocked Allen down; whereupon the latter said, "You've got me, Billy!"  Allen's only purpose, it appeared, was to take a shot at the innocent stranger and thus test his marksmanship.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>This Gabe Allen was really a notorious character, though not altogether bad. When sober, he was a peaceable man; but when on a spree, he was decidedly warlike and on such occasions always "shot up the town." While on one of these jamborees, for example, he was heard to say, "I'll shoot, if I only kill six of them!"  In later life, however, Allen married a Mexican lady who seems to have had a mollifying influence; and thereafter he lived at peace with the world.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During the changing half-century or more of which I write, Los Angeles has witnessed many exciting street scenes, but it is doubtful if any exhibition here ever called to doors, windows and the dusty streets a greater percentage of the entire population than that of the Government camels driven through the town on January 8th, 1858, under the martial and spectacular command of Ned, otherwise Lieutenant, and later General and Ambassador E. F. Beale, and the forbear of the so-called hundred million dollar McLean baby; the same Lieutenant Beale who opened up Beale's Route from the Rio Grande to Fort Tej&oacute;n. The camels had just come in from the fort, having traveled forty or more miles a day across the desert, to be loaded with military stores and provisions.  As early as the beginning of the fifties, Jefferson Davis, then in Congress, had advocated, but without success, the appropriation of thirty thousand dollars for the purchase of such animals, believing that they could be used on the overland routes and would prove especially serviceable in desert regions; and when Davis, in 1854, as Secretary of War, secured the appropriation for which he had so long contended, he despatched American army officers to Egypt and Arabia to make the purchase. Some seventy or seventy-five camels were obtained and transported to Texas by the storeship <HI REND="italics">Supply</HI>
023.sgm:; and in the Lone Star State the herd was divided into two parts, half being sent to the Gadsden Purchase, afterward Arizona, and half to Albuquerque. In a short time, the second division was put in charge of Lieutenant Beale who was assisted by native camel-drivers brought from abroad.  Among these was Philip Tedro, or Hi Jolly--who had been picked up by Commodore Dave Porter--and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>To return to Pancho Daniel, the escaped leader of the Barton murderers.  He was heard from occasionally, as foraging north toward San Luis Obispo, and was finally captured, after repeated efforts to entrap and round him up, by Sheriff Murphy, on January 19th, 1858, while hiding in a haystack near San Jos&eacute;. When he was brought to Los Angeles, he was jailed, and then released on bail.  Finally, Daniel's lawyers secured for him a change of venue to Santa B&aacute;rbara; and this was the last abuse that led the public again to administer a little law of its own. Early on the morning of November 30th, Pancho's body was found hanging by the neck at the gateway to the County Jail yard, a handful of men having overpowered the keeper, secured the key and the prisoner, and sent him on a journey with a different destination from Santa B&aacute;rbara.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On February 25th, fire started in Childs &amp; Hicks's store, on Los Angeles Street, and threatened both the Bella Union and <HI REND="italics">El Palacio</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Weeks later workmen, rummaging among the <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A new four-page weekly newspaper appeared on March 24th, bearing the suggestive title, the <HI REND="italics">Southern Vineyard</HI>
023.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On March 24th, I married Sarah, second daughter of Joseph Newmark, to whom I had been engaged since 1856.  She was born on January 9th, 1841, and had come to live in Los Angeles in 1854.  The ceremony, performed by the bride's father, took place at the family home, at what is now 501 North Main Street, almost a block from the Plaza, on the site of the Brunswig Drug Company; and there we continued to live until about 1860.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At four o'clock, a small circle of intimates was welcomed at dinner; and in the evening there was a house-party and dance, for which invitations printed on lace-paper, in the typography characteristic of that day, had been sent out. Among the friends who attended, were the military officers stationed at Fort Tej&oacute;n, including Major Bell, the commanding officer, and Lieutenant John B. Magruder, formerly Colonel at San Diego and later a Major General in the Civil War, commanding Confederate forces in the Peninsula and in Texas, and eventually serving under Maximilian in Mexico.  Other friends still living in Los Angeles who were present are Mr. and Mrs. S. Lazard, Mrs. S. C. Foy, William H. Workman, C. E. Thom and H. D. Barrows.  Men rarely went out unarmed at night, and most of our male visitors doffed their weapons--both pistols and knives--as they came in, spreading them around in the bedrooms.  The ladies brought their babies with them for safe-keeping, and the same rooms were placed at their disposal.  Imagine, if you can, the appearance of this nursery-arsenal!</P>
023.sgm:<P>It was soon after we were married that my wile said to me one day, rather playfully, but with a touch of sadness, that our meeting might easily have never taken place; and when I inquired what she meant, she described an awful calamity that had befallen the Greenwich Avenue school in New York City, which she attended as a little girl, and where several hundred <illus entity="a023-0069" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Harris Newmark, when (about Thirty-four Years Old</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0070" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Sarah Newmark, when (about>Twenty-four Years of Age</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0071" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Facsimile of Harris and Sarah Newmark's Wedding Invitation</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On the afternoon of November 20th, 1851, Miss Harrison, the Principal of the young ladies' department, suddenly fell in a faint, and the resulting screams for water, being misunderstood, led to the awful cry of <HI REND="italics">Fire</HI>
023.sgm:!  It was known that the pupils made a dash for the various doors and were soon massed around the stairway, yet a difference of opinion existed as to the cause of the tragedy.  My wife always said that the staircase, which led from the upper to the first floor, <HI REND="italics">en caracole</HI>
023.sgm:<P>My wife, who was a child of but eleven years, was just about to jump with the rest when a providential hand restrained and saved her.</P>
023.sgm:<P>News of the disaster quickly spread, and in a short time the crowd of anxious parents, kinsfolk and friends who had hastened to the scene in every variety of vehicle and on foot, was so dense that the police had the utmost difficulty in removing the wounded, dying and dead.</P>
023.sgm:<P>From Geneva, Switzerland, in 1854, a highly educated French lady, Mlle. Theresa Bry, whose oil portrait hangs in the County Museum, reached Los Angeles, and four years later married Fran&ccedil;ois Henriot, a gardener by profession, who had come from <HI REND="italics">la belle France</HI>
023.sgm: in 1851.  Together, on First Street near Los Angeles, they conducted a private school which enjoyed considerable patronage; removing the institution, in the early eighties, to the Arroyo Seco district. This matrimonial transaction, on account of the unequal social stations of the respective parties, caused some little flurry: in contrast to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1858, the outlook for business brightened in Los Angeles; and Don Abel Stearns, who had acquired riches as a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On April 24th, Se&ntilde;ora Guadalupe Romero died at the age, it is said, of one hundred and fifteen years.  She came to Los Angeles, I was told, as far back as 1781, the wife of one of the earliest soldiers sent here, and had thus lived in the pueblo about seventy-seven years.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Some chapters in the life of Henry Mellus are of more than passing interest.  Born in Boston, he came to California in 1835, with Richard Henry Dana, in Captain Thompson's brig <HI REND="italics">Pilgrim</HI>
023.sgm: made famous in the story of <HI REND="italics">Two Years before the Mast</HI>
023.sgm:; clerked for Colonel Isaac Williams when that Chino worthy had a little store where later the Bella Union stood; returned to the East in 1837 and came back to the Coast the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Just what hotel life in Los Angeles was in the late fifties, or about the time when Dana visited here, may be gathered from an anecdote often told by Dr. W. F. Edgar, who came to the City of the Angels for the first time in 1858.  Dr. Edgar had been ordered to join an expedition against the Mojave Indians which was to start from Los Angeles for the Colorado River, and he put up at the old Bella Union, expecting at least one good night's rest before taking to the saddle again and making for the desert.  Dr. Edgar found, however, to his intense disgust, that the entire second story was overcrowded with lodgers. Singing and loud talking were silenced, in turn, by the protests of those who wanted to sleep; but finally a guest, too full for expression but not so drunk that he was unable to breathe hoarsely, staggered in from a Sonora Town ball, tumbled into bed with his boots on, and commenced to snort, much like a pig. Under ordinary circumstances, this infliction would have been grievous enough; but the inner walls of the Bella Union were never overthick, and the rhythmic snoring of the late-comer made itself emphatically audible and proportionately obnoxious. Quite as emphatic, however, were the objections soon raised by the fellow-guests, who not only raised them but threw them, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Edgar's nocturnal experience reminds me of another in the good old Bella Union.  When Cameron E. Thom arrived here in the spring of 1854, he engaged a room at the hotel which he continued to occupy for several months, or until the rains of 1855 caused both roof and ceiling to cave in during the middle of the night, not altogether pleasantly arousing him from his slumbers.  It was then that he moved to Joseph Newmark's, where he lived for some time, through which circumstance we became warm friends.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Big, husky, hearty Jacob Kuhrts, by birth a German and now living here at eighty-one years of age, left home, as a mere boy, for the sea, visiting California on a vessel from China as early as 1848, and rushing off to Placer County on the outbreak of the gold-fever.  Roughing it for several years and narrowly escaping death from Indians, Jake made his first appearance in Los Angeles in 1858, soon after which I met him, when he was eking out a livelihood doing odd jobs about town, a fact leading me to conclude that his success at the mines was hardly commensurate with the privations endured.  It was just about that time, when he was running a dray, that, attracted by a dance among Germans, Jake dropped in as he was; but how sorry an appearance he made may perhaps be fancied when I say that the door-keeper, eyeing him suspiciously, refused him admission and advised him to go home and but on his Sunday go-to-meetings.  Jake went and, what is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1858, John Temple built what is now the south wing of the Temple Block  standing directly opposite the Bullard Building; but the Main Street stores being, like Stearns's Arcadia Block, above the level of the sidewalk and, therefore, reached only by several steps, proved unpopular and did not rent, although Tischler &amp; Schlesinger, heading a party of grain-buyers, stored some wheat in them for a while or until the grain, through its weight, broke the flooring, and was precipitated into the cellar; and even as late as 1859, after telegraph connection with San Francisco had been completed, only one little space on the Spring Street side, in size not more than eight by ten feet, was rented; the telegraph company being the tenants.  One day William Wolfskill, pointing to the structure, exclaimed to his friends: "What a pity that Temple put all his money there! Had he not gone into building so extravagantly, he might now be a rich man."  Wolfskill himself, however, later commenced the construction of a small block on Main Street, opposite the Bella Union, to be occupied by S. Lazard &amp; Company, but which he did not live to see completed.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Later on, the little town grew and, as this property became more central, Temple removed the steps and built the stores flush with the sidewalk, after which wide-awake merchants began to move into them.  One of Temple's first important <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On the Court Street side, Jake Philippi was one of the first to locate, and there he conducted a sort of <HI REND="italics">Kneipe</HI>
023.sgm:.  His was a large room, with a bar along the west side.  The floor was generously sprinkled with sawdust, and in comfortable armchairs, around the good, old-fashioned redwood tables, frequently sat many of his German friends and patrons, gathered together to indulge in a game of <HI REND="italics">Pedro, Skat</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Most of these convivial frequenters at Phillipi's belonged to a sort of <HI REND="italics">Deutscher Klub</HI>
023.sgm: which met, at another period, in a little room in the rear of the corner of Main and Requena streets, just over the cool cellar then conducted by Bayer &amp; Sattler. A stairway connected the two floors, and by means of that communication the <HI REND="italics">Klub</HI>
023.sgm: obtained its supply of lager beer. This fact recalls an amusing incident.  When Philip Lauth and Louis Schwarz succeeded Christian Henne in the management of the brewery at the corner of Main and Third streets, the <HI REND="italics">Klub</HI>
023.sgm: was much dissatisfied with the new brew and forthwith had Bayer &amp; Sattler send to Milwaukee for beer made by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Philip Best.  Getting wind of the matter, Lauth met the competition by at once putting on the market a brand more wittily than appropriately known as "Philip's Best."  Sattler left Los Angeles in the early seventies and established a coffee-plantation in South America where, one day, he was killed by a native wielding a <HI REND="italics">machete</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The place, which was then known as Joe Bayer's, came to belong to Bob Eckert, a German of ruddy complexion and auburn hair, whose good-nature brought him so much patronage that in course of time he opened a large establishment at Santa Monica.</P>
023.sgm:<P>John D. Woodworth, a cousin, so it was said, of Samuel Woodworth, the author of <HI REND="italics">The Old Oaken Bucket</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In June, the Surveyor-General of California made an unexpected demand on the authorities of Los Angeles County for all the public documents relating to the County history under Spanish and Mexican rule.  The request was at first refused; but finally, despite the indignant protests of the press, the invaluable records were shipped to San Francisco.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I believe it was late in the fifties that O. W. Childs contracted with the City of Los Angeles to dig a water-ditch, perhaps sixteen hundred feet long, eighteen inches wide and about eighteen inches deep.  As I recollect the transaction, the City allowed him one dollar per running foot, and he took land in payment.  While I cannot remember the exact location of this land, it comprised in part the wonderfully important square beginning at Sixth Street and running to Twelfth, and taking in everything from Main Street as far as and including the present Figueroa.  When Childs put this property on the market, his wife named several of the streets.  Because of some grasshoppers in the vicinity, she called the extension of Pearl Street <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:(now Figueroa) Grasshopper or Calle de los Chapules<ANCHOR ID="n16-17">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-17">A Mexican corruption of the Aztec <HI REND="italics">chapollin</HI>
023.sgm:, grasshopper.  <HI REND="italics">Cf</HI>
023.sgm:<P>None of the old settlers ever placed much value on real estate, and Childs had no sooner closed this transaction than he proceeded to distribute some of the land among his own and his wife's relatives.  He also gave to the Catholic Church the block later bounded by Sixth and Seventh streets, between Broadway and Hill; where, until a few years ago, stood St. Vincent's College, opened in 1855 on the Plaza, on the site now occupied by the Pekin Curio Store.  In the Boom year of 1887, the Church authorities sold this block for one hundred thousand dollars and moved the school to the corner of Charity and Washington streets.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Andrew A. Boyle, for whom the eastern suburb of Los Angeles, Boyle Heights, was named by William H. Workman, arrived here in 1858.  As early as 1848, Boyle had set out from Mexico, where he had been in business, to return to the United States, taking with him some twenty thousand Mexican dollars, at that time his entire fortune, safely packed in a fortified claret box.  While attempting to board a steamer from a frail skiff at the mouth of the Rio Grande, the churning by the paddle-wheels capsized the skiff, and Boyle and his treasure were thrown into the water.  Boyle narrowly escaped with his life; but his treasure went to the bottom, never to be recovered. It was then said that Boyle had perished; and his wife, on hearing the false report, was killed by the shock.  Quite as serious, perhaps, was the fact that an infant daughter was left on his hands--the same daughter who later became the wile of my friend, William H. Workman.  Confiding this child to an aunt, Boyle went to the Isthmus where he opened a shoe store; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The brick house, built by Boyle on the Heights in 1858 and always a center of hospitality, is still standing, although recently remodeled by William H. Workman, Jr. (brother of Boyle Workman, the banker), who added a third story and made a cosy dwelling; and it is probably, therefore, the oldest brick structure in that part of the town.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mendel was a younger brother of Sam Meyer, and it is my impression that he arrived here in the late fifties.  He originally clerked for his brother, and for a short time was in partnership with him and Hilliard Loewenstein.  In time, Meyer engaged in business for himself.  During a number of his best years, Mendel was well thought of socially, with his fiddle often affording much amusement to his friends.  All in all, he was a good-hearted, jovial sort of a chap, who too readily gave to others of his slender means.  About 1875, he made a visit to Europe and spent more than he could afford.  At any rate, in later life he did not prosper.  He died in Los Angeles a number of years ago.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thomas Copley came here in 1858, having met with many hardships while driving an ox-team from Fort Leavenworth to Salt Lake and tramped the entire eight hundred miles between the Mormon capital and San Bernardino.  On arriving, he became a waiter and worked for a while for the Sisters' Hospital; subsequently he married a lady of about twice his stature, retiring to private life with a competence.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Another arrival of the late fifties was Manuel Ravenna, an Italian.   He started a grocery store and continued the venture for some time; then he entered the saloon business on Main Street.  Ravenna commissioned Wells Fargo &amp; Company to bring by express the first ice shipped to Los Angeles for a commercial purpose, paying for it an initial price <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>John Butterfield was originally a New York stage-driver and later the organizer of the American Express Company, as well as projector of the Morse telegraph line between New York and Buffalo.  As the head of John Butterfield &amp; Company, he was one of my customers in 1857.  He contracted with the United States, in 1858, as President of the Overland Mail Company, to carry mail between San Francisco and the Missouri River.  To make this possible, sections of the road, afterward popularly referred to as the Butterfield Route, were built; and the surveyors, Bishop and Beale, were awarded the contract for part of the work.  It is my recollection that they used for this purpose some of the camels imported by the United States Government, and that these animals were in charge of Greek George to whom I have already referred.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Butterfield chose a route from San Francisco coming down the Coast to Gilroy, San Jos&eacute; and through the mountain passes; on to Visalia and Fort Tej&oacute;n, and then to Los Angeles, in all some four hundred and sixty-two miles.  From Los Angeles it ran eastward through El Monte, San Bernardino, Temecula and Warner's Ranch to Fort Yuma, and then by way of El Paso to St. Louis.  In this manner, Butterfield arranged for what was undoubtedly the longest continuous stage-line ever established, the entire length being about two thousand, eight hundred and eighty miles. The Butterfield stages began running in September, 1858; and when the first one from the East reached Los Angeles on October 7th, just twenty days after it started, there was a great demonstration, accompanied by bonfires and the firing of cannon.  On this initial trip, just one passenger made the through journey--W. L. Ormsby, a reporter for the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Stages were manned by a driver and a conductor or messenger, both heavily armed. Provender and relief stations were established along the route, as a rule not more than twenty miles apart, and sometimes half that distance.  The schedule first called for two stages a week, then one stage in each direction, every other day; and after a while this plan was altered to provide for a stage every day.  There was little regularity, however, in the hours of departure, and still less in the time of arrival, and I recollect once leaving for San Francisco at the unearthly hour of two o'clock in the morning.</P>
023.sgm:<P>So uncertain, indeed, were the arrival and departure of stages, that not only were passengers often left behind, but mails were actually undelivered because no authorized person was on hand, in the lone hours of the night, to receive and distribute them.  Such a ridiculous incident occurred in the fall of 1858, when bags of mail destined for Los Angeles were carried on to San Francisco, and were returned by the stage making its way south and east, fully six days later!  Local newspapers were then more or less dependent for their exchanges from the great Eastern centers on the courtesy of drivers or agents;  and editors were frequently acknowledging  the receipt of such bundles, from which, with scissors and paste, they obtained the so-called news items furnished to their subscribers.</P>
023.sgm:<P>George Lechler, here in 1853, who married Henry Hazard's sister, drove a Butterfield stage and picked up orders for me from customers along the route.</P>
023.sgm:<P>B. W. Pyle, a Virginian by birth, arrived in Los Angeles in 1858, and became, as far as I can recall, the first exclusive jeweler and watchmaker, although Charley Ducommun, as l have said, had handled jewelry and watches some years before in connection with other things.  Pyle's store adjoined that of Newmark, Kremer &amp; Company on Commercial Street, and I soon became familiar with his methods.  He commissioned many of the stage-drivers to work up business for him on the Butterfield Route; and as his charges were enormous, he was enabled, within three or four years, to establish himself in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1857, Phineas Banning purchased from one of the Dominguez brothers an extensive tract some miles to the North of San Pedro, along the arm of the sea, and established a new landing which, in a little while, was to monopolize the harbor business and temporarily affect all operations at the old place. Here, on September 25th, 1858, he started a community called at first both San Pedro New Town and New San Pedro, and later Wilmington--the latter name suggested by the capital of Banning's native State of Delaware.  Banning next cultivated a tract of six hundred acres, planted with grain and fruit where, among other evidences of his singular enterprise, there was soon to be seen a large well, connected with a steam pump of sufficient force to supply the commercial and irrigation wants of both Wilmington and San Pedro.  Banning's founding of the former town was due, in part, to heavy losses sustained through a storm that seriously damaged his wharf, and in part to his desire to outdo J. J. Tomlinson, his chief business rival.  The inauguration of the new shipping point, on October 1st, 1858, was celebrated by a procession on the water, when a line of barges loaded with visitors from Los Angeles and vicinity, and with freight, was towed to the decorated landing.  A feature of the dedication was the assistance rendered by the ladies, who even tugged at the hawser, following which host and guests liberally partook of the sparkling beverages contributing to enliven the festive occasion.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In a short time, the shipping there gave evidence of Banning's wonderful go-ahead spirit.  He had had built, in San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>At about this period, three packets plied between San Francisco and San Diego every ten days, leaving the Commercial Street wharf of the Northern city and stopping at various intermediate points including Wilmington.  These packets were the clipper-brig <HI REND="italics">Pride of the Sea</HI>
023.sgm:, Captain Joseph S. Garcia; the clipper-brig <HI REND="italics">Boston</HI>
023.sgm:, Commander W. H. Martin; and the clipper-schooner <HI REND="italics">Lewis Perry</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1858, finding that our business was not sufficiently remunerative to support four families, Newmark, Kremer &amp; Company dissolved.  In the dissolution, I took the clothing part of the business, Newmark &amp; Kremer retaining the dry goods.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In November or December, Dr. John S. Griffin acquired San Pasqual <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, the fine property which had once been the pride of Don Manuel Garfias.  The latter had borrowed three thousand dollars, at four per cent. per month, to complete his manorial residence, which cost some six thousand dollars to build; but the ranch proving unfavorable for cattle, and Don Manuel being a poor manager, the debt of three thousand dollars soon grew into almost treble the original amount.  When Griffin purchased the place, he gave Garfias an additional two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:thousand dollars to cover the stock, horses and ranch-tools; but even at that the doctor drove a decided bargain.  As early as 1852, Garfias had applied to the Land Commission for a patent; but this was not issued until April 3d, 1863, and the document, especially interesting because it bore the signature of Abraham Lincoln, brought little consolation to Garfias or his proud wife, <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: &Aacute;bila, who had then signed away all claim to the splendid property which was in time to play such a <HI REND="italics">r&ocirc;le</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On November 20th, Don Bernardo Yorba died, bequeathing to numerous children and grandchildren an inheritance of one hundred and ten thousand dollars' worth of personal property, in addition to thirty-seven thousand acres of land.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in December, 1858, Juan Domingo--or, as he was often called, Juan Cojo or "Lame John," because of a peculiar limp--died at his vineyard on the south side of Aliso Street, having for years enjoyed the esteem of the community as a good, substantial citizen.  Domingo, who successfully conducted a wine and brandy business, was a Hollander by birth, and in his youth had borne the name of Johann Groningen; but after coming to California and settling among the Latin element, he had changed it, for what reason will never be known, to Juan Domingo, the Spanish for John Sunday.  The coming of Domingo, in 1827, was not without romance; he was a ship's carpenter and one of a crew of twenty-five on the brig <HI REND="italics">Danube</HI>
023.sgm: which sailed from New York and was totally wrecked off San Pedro, only two or three souls (among them Domingo) being saved and hospitably welcomed by the citizens. On February 12th, 1839, he married a Spanish woman, Reymunda Feliz, by whom he had a large family of children. A son, J. A. Domingo, was living until at least recently.  A souvenir of Domingo's lameness, in the County Museum, is a cane with which the doughty sailor often defended himself. Samuel Prentiss, a Rhode Islander, was another of the <HI REND="italics">Danube's</HI>
023.sgm: shipwrecked sailors who was saved.  He hunted and fished for a living and, about 1864 or 1865, died on Catalina Island; and there, in a secluded spot, not far from the seat of his labors, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:he was buried.  As the result of a complicated lumber deal, Captain Joseph S. Garcia, of the <HI REND="italics">Pride of the Sea</HI>
023.sgm:, obtained an interest in a small vineyard owned by Juan Domingo and Sainsevain; and through this relation Garcia became a minor partner of Sainsevain in the Cucamonga winery.  Mrs. Garcia is living in Pomona; the Captain died some ten years ago at Ontario.  <HI REND="italics">A propos</HI>
023.sgm: of the three Louis, referred to--Breer, Lichtenberger and Roeder--all of that sturdy German stock which makes for good American citizenship, I do not suppose that there is any record of the exact date of Breer's arrival, although I imagine that it was in the early sixties.  Lichtenberger, who served both as a City Father and City Treasurer, arrived in 1864, while Roeder used to boast that the ship on which he sailed to San Francisco, just prior to his coming to Los Angeles, in 1856 brought the first news of Buchanan's election to the Presidency.  Of the three, Breer--who was known as Iron Louis, on account of his magnificent physique, suggesting the poet's smith, "with large and sinewy hands," and muscles as "strong as iron bands,"--was the least successful; and truly, till the end of his days, he earned his living by the sweat of his brow.  In 1865, Lichtenberger and Roeder formed a partnership which, in a few years, was dissolved, each of them then conducting business independently until, in comfortable circumstances, he retired.  Roeder, an early and enthusiastic member of the Pioneers, is never so proud as when paying his last respects to a departed comrade: his unfeigned sorrow at the loss apparently being compensated for, if one may so express it, by the recognition he enjoyed as one of the society's official committee.  Two of the three Louis are dead.<ANCHOR ID="n16-18">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-18">Louis Roeder died on February 20, 1915</NOTE>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII<LB>ADMISSION TO CITIZENSHIP<LB>1859</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>IN 1858, my brother, to whom the greater opportunities of San Francisco had long appealed, decided upon a step that was to affect considerably my own modest affairs. This was to remove permanently to the North, with my sister-in-law; and in the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Mr. Joseph P. Newmark has established a commission-house in San Francisco, with a branch in this city.  From his experience in business, Mr. Newmark will be a most desirable agent for the sale of our domestic produce in the San Francisco market, and we have no doubt will obtain the confidence of our merchants and shippers.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This move of my brother's was made, as a matter of fact, at a time when Los Angeles, in one or two respects at least, seemed promising.  On September 30th, the building commenced by John Temple in the preceding February, on the site of the present Bullard Block, was finished.  Most of the upper floor was devoted to a theater, and I am inclined to think that the balance of the building was leased to the City, the court room being next to the theater, and the ground floor being used as a market.  To the latter move there was considerable opposition, affecting, as the expenditures did, taxes and the public treasury; and one newspaper, after a spirited attack on the "Black Republicans," concluded its editorial with this patriotic appeal:</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Citizens!  Attend to your interests; guard your pocketbooks!</P>
023.sgm:<P>This building is one of the properties to which I refer as sold by Hinchman, having been bought by Dr. J. S. Griffin and B. D. Wilson who resold it in time to the County.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A striking feature of this market building was the town clock, whose bell was pronounced "fine-toned and sonorous."  The clock and bell, however, were destined to share the fate of the rest of the structure which, all in all, was not very well constructed.  At last, the heavy rains of the early sixties played havoc with the tower, and toward the end of 1861 the clock had set such a pace for itself regardless of the rest of the universe that the newspapers were full of facetious jibes concerning the once serviceable timepiece, and many were the queries as to whether something could not be done to roof the mechanism? The clock, however, remained uncovered until Bullard demolished the building to make room for the present structure.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elsewhere I have referred to the attempt, shortly after I arrived here, or during the session of the Legislature of 1854-55, to divide California into two states-the proposition, be it added of a San Bernardino County representative. A committee of thirteen, from different sections of the commonwealth, later substituted a bill providing for three states: Shasta, in the North; California, at the middle; Colorado, in the South; but nothing evolving as a result of the effort, our Assemblyman, Andr&eacute;s Pico, in 1859 fathered a measure for the segregation of the Southern counties under the name of Colorado, when this bill passed both houses and was signed by the Governor.  It had to be submitted to the people, however, at the election in September, 1859; and although nearly twenty-five hundred ballots were cast in favor of the division, as against eight hundred in the negative, the movement was afterward stifled in Washington.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Damien Marchessault and Victor Beaudry having enthusiastically organized the Santa Anita Mining Company in 1858, H. N. Alexander, agent at Los Angeles for Wells Fargo &amp; Company, in 1859 announced that the latter had provided <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>I have mentioned the Mormon Colony at San Bernardino and its connection, as an offshoot, with the great Mormon city, Salt Lake; now I may add that each winter, for fifteen or twenty years, or until railroad connection was established, a lively and growing trade was carried on between Los Angeles and Utah.  This was because the Mormons had no open road toward the outside world, except in the direction of Southern California; for snow covered both the Rockies and the Sierra Nevadas, and closed every other highway and trail. A number of Mormon wagon-trains, therefore, went back and forth every winter over the seven hundred miles or more of fairly level, open roadways, between Salt Lake and Los Angeles, taking back not only goods bought here but much that was shipped from San Francisco to Salt Lake <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The third week in February witnessed one of the most interesting gatherings of <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm: characteristic of Southern California life I have ever seen.  It was a typical <HI REND="italics">rodeo</HI>
023.sgm:, lasting two or three days, for the separating and regrouping of cattle and horses, and took place at the residence of William Workman at La Puente <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:.  Strictly speaking, the <HI REND="italics">rodeo</HI>
023.sgm: continued but two days, or less; for, inasmuch as the cattle to be sorted and branded had to be deprived for the time being of their customary nourishment, the work was necessarily one of despatch.  Under the direction of a Judge of the Plains--on this occasion, the polished cavalier, Don Felipe Lugo--they were examined, parted and branded, or re-branded, with hot irons impressing a mark (generally a letter or odd monogram) duly registered at the Court House and protected by the County Recorder's certificate.  Never have I seen finer horsemanship than was there displayed by those whose task it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:was to pursue the animal and throw the lasso around the head or leg; and as often as most of those present had probably seen the feat performed, great was their enthusiasm when each <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
023.sgm: brought down his victim.  Among the guests were most of the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Aside from the business in hand of disposing of such an enormous number of mixed-up cattle in so short a time, what made the occasion one of keen delight was the remarkable, almost astounding ability of the horseman in controlling his animal; for lassoing cattle was not his only forte. The <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
023.sgm: of early days was a clever rider and handler of horses, particularly the bronco--so often erroneously spelled broncho--sometimes a mustang, sometimes an Indian pony.  Out of a drove that had never been saddled, he would lasso one, attach a halter to his neck and blindfold him by means of a strap some two or three inches in width fastened to the halter; after which he would suddenly mount the bronco and remove the blind, when the horse, unaccustomed to discipline or restraint, would buck and kick for over a quarter of a mile, and then stop only because of exhaustion.  With seldom a mishap, however, the <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of this dexterity, I may add that now and then the early Californian <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Among the professional classes, J. Lancaster Brent was always popular, but never more welcomed than on his return <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:from Washington on February 26th, 1859, when he brought the United States patent to the Dominguez <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In mercantile circles, Adolph Portugal became somewhat prominent, conducting a flourishing business here for a number of years after opening in 1854, and accumulating, before 1865, about seventy-five thousand dollars.  With this money he then left Los Angeles and went to Europe, where he made an extremely unprofitable investment.  He returned to Los Angeles and again engaged in mercantile pursuits; but he was never able to recover, and died a pauper.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Corbitt, who at one time controlled, with Dibblee; great ranch areas near Santa B&aacute;rbara, and in 1859 was in partnership with Barker, owned the Santa Anita <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Louis Mesmer arrived here in 1858, then went to Fraser River and there, in eight months, he made twenty thousand dollars by baking for the Hudson Bay Company's troops. A year later he was back in Los Angeles; and on Main Street, somewhere near Requena, he started a bakery.  In time he controlled the local bread trade, supplying among others the Government troops here.  In 1864, Mesmer bought out the United States Hotel, previously run by Webber &amp; Haas, and finally purchased from Don Juan N. Padilla the land on which the building stood.  This property, costing three thousand dollars, extended one hundred and forty feet on Main Street and ran through to Los Angeles, on which street it had a frontage of about sixty feet.  Mesmer's son Joseph is still living and is active in civic affairs.</P>
023.sgm:<P>William Nordholt, a Forty-niner, was also a resident of Los Angeles for some time.  He was a carpenter and worked in partnership with Jim Barton; and when Barton was elected Sheriff, Nordholt continued in business for himself.  At length, in 1859, he opened a grocery store on the northwest corner of Los Angeles and First streets, which he conducted for many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the Opening of other hotels, the Bella Union continued throughout the fifties to be the representative headquarters of its kind in Los Angeles and for a wide area around.  On April 19th, 1856, Flashner &amp; Hammell took hold of the establishment; and a couple of years after that, Dr. J. B. Winston, who had had local hotel experience, joined Flashner and together they made improvements, adding the second story, which took five or six months to complete.  This step forward in the hostelry was duly celebrated, on April 14th, 1859, at a dinner, the new dining-room being advertised, far and wide, as "one of the finest in all"</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shortly after this, however, Marcus Flashner (who owned some thirty-five acres at the corner of Main and Washington streets, where he managed either a vineyard or an orange orchard), met a violent death.  He used to travel to and from this property in a buggy; and one day  June 29th, 1859--his horse ran away, throwing him out and killing him.  In 1860, John King, Flashner's brother-in-law, entered the management of the Bella Union; and by 1861, Dr. Winston had sole control.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Strolling again, in imagination, into the old Bella Union of this time, I am reminded of a novel method then employed to call the guests to their meals.  When I first came to Los Angeles the hotel waiter rang a large bell to announce that all was ready; but about the spring of 1859 the fact that another meal had been concocted was signalized by the blowing of a shrill steam-whistle placed on the hotel's roof.  This brought together both the "regulars" and transients, everyone scurrying to be first at the dining-room door.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About the middle of April, Wells Fargo &amp; Company's rider made a fast run between San Pedro and Los Angeles, bringing all the mail matter from the vessels, and covering the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The Protestant Church has been represented in Los Angeles since the first service in Mayor Nichols' home and the missionary work of Adam Bland; but it was not until May 4th, 1859, that any attempt was made to erect an edifice for the Protestants in the community.  Then a committee, including Isaac S. K. Ogier, A. J. King, Columbus Sims, Thomas Foster, William H. Shore, N. A. Potter, J. R. Gitchell and Henry D. Barrows began to collect funds.  Reverend William E. Boardman, an Episcopalian, was invited to take charge; but subscriptions coming in slowly, he conducted services, first in one of the school buildings and then in the Court House, until 1862 when he left.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Despite its growing communication with San Francisco, Los Angeles for years was largely dependent upon sail and steamboat service, and each year the need of a better highway to the North, for stages, became more and more apparent. Finally, in May, 1859, General Ezra Drown was sent as a commissioner to Santa B&aacute;rbara, to discuss the construction of a road to that city; and on his return he declared the project quite practicable.  The Supervisors had agreed to devote a certain sum of money, and the Santa Barbare&ntilde;os, on their part, were to vote on the proposition of appropriating fifteen thousand dollars for the work.  Evidently the citizens voted favorably; for in July of the following year James Thompson, of Los Angeles, contracted for making the new road through Santa B&aacute;rbara County, from the Los Angeles to the San Luis Obispo lines, passing through Ventura--or San Buenaventura, as it was then more poetically called--Santa B&aacute;rbara and out by the Gaviota Pass; in all, a distance of about one hundred and twenty-five miles.  Some five or six months were required to finish the rough work, and over thirty thousand dollars was expended for that alone.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Winfield Scott Hancock, whom I came to know well and who had been here before, arrived in Los Angeles in May, 1859, to establish a depot for the Quartermaster's Department <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Beaudry &amp; Marchessault were among the first handlers of ice in Los Angeles, having an ice-house in 1859, where, in the springtime, they stored the frozen product taken from the mountain lakes fifty miles away.  The ice was cut into cubes of about one hundred pounds each, packed down the <HI REND="italics">ca&ntilde;ons</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Considering the present popularity of the silver dollar along the entire Western Coast, it may be interesting to recall the stamping of these coins, for the first time in California, at the San Francisco mint.  This was in the spring of 1859, soon after which they began to appear in Los Angeles.  A few years later, in 1863, and for ten or fifteen years thereafter, silver half-dimes, coined in San Francisco, were to be seen here occasionally; but they were never popular.  The larger silver piece, the dime, was more common, although for a while it also had little purchasing power.  As late as the early seventies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the year 1859, the Hellman brothers, Isaias W. and Herman W., arrived here in a sailing-vessel with Captain Morton.  I. W. Hellman took a clerkship with his cousin, I. M. Hellman, who had arrived in 1854 and was established in the stationery line in Mellus's Row, while H. W. Hellman went to work in June, 1859, for Phineas Banning, at Wilmington.  I. W. Hellman immediately showed much ability and greatly improved his cousin's business.  By 1865, he was in trade for himself, selling dry-goods at the corner of Main and Commercial streets as the successor to A. Portugal; while H. W. Hellman, father of Marco H. Hellman, the banker, and father-in-law of the public-spirited citizen, Louis M. Cole, became my competitor, as will be shown later, in the wholesale grocery business.</P>
023.sgm:<P>John Philbin, an Irishman, arrived here penniless late in the fifties, but with my assistance started a small store at Fort Tej&oacute;n, then a military post necessary for the preservation of order on the Indian Reservation; and there, during the short space of eighteen months, he accumulated twenty thousand dollars.  Illness compelled him to leave, and I bought his business and property.  After completing this purchase, I engaged a clerk in San Francisco to manage the new branch.  As John Philbin had been very popular, the new clerk also called himself "John" and soon enjoyed equal favor.  It was only when Bob Wilson came into town one day from the Fort and told me, "That chap John is gambling your whole damned business away; he plays seven-up at twenty dollars a game, and when out of cash, puts up blocks of merchandise," that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>It was in 1859, or a year before Abraham Lincoln was elected President, that I bought out Philbin, and at the breaking out of the War, the troops were withdrawn from Fort Tej&oacute;n, thus ending my activity there as a merchant.  We disposed of the stock as best we could; but the building, which had cost three thousand dollars, brought at forced sale just fifty.  Fort Tej&oacute;n, established about 1854, I may add, after it attained some fame as the only military post in Southern California where snow ever fell, and also as the scene of the earthquake phenomena I have described, was abandoned altogether as a military station on September 11th, 1864.  Philbin removed to Los Angeles, where he invested in some fifty acres of vineyard along San Pedro Street, extending as far south as the present Pico; and I still have a clear impression of the typical old adobe there, so badly damaged by the rains of 1890.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kaspare remained in my employ until he set up in business at Red Bluff, Tehama County, where he continued until January, 1866.  In more recent years, he has come to occupy an enviable position as a successful financier.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Somewhat less than six years after my arrival (or, to be accurate, on the fifteenth day of August, 1859, about the time of my mother's death at Loebau), and satisfying one of my most ardent ambitions, I entered the family of Uncle Sam, carrying from the District Court here a red-sealed document, to me of great importance; my newly-acquired citizenship being attested by Ch. R. Johnson, Clerk, and John O. Wheeler, Deputy.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On September 3d, the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>CALLED TO THE BAR--At the present term of the District Court for the First Judicial District, Mr. M. J. Newmark was called to the bar.  We congratulate Mr. Newmark on his success, and wish him a brilliant career in his profession.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This kindly reference was to my brother-in-law, who had read law in the office of E. J. C. Kewen, then on Main Street, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>We who have such praise for the rapid growth of the population in Los Angeles must not forget the faithful midwives of early days, when there was not the least indication that there would ever be a lying-in hospital here.  First, one naturally recalls old Mrs. Simmons, the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Gamp</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Residents of Los Angeles to-day have but a faint idea, I suppose, of what exertion we cheerfully submitted to, forty or fifty years ago, in order to participate in a little pleasure. This was shown at an outing in 1859, on and by the sea, made possible through the courtesy of my hospitable friend, Phineas Banning, details of which illustrate the social conditions then prevailing here.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Banning had invited fifty or sixty ladies and gentlemen to accompany him to Catalina; and at about half-past five o'clock on a June morning the guests arrived at Banning's residence where they partook of refreshments.  Then they started in decorated stages for New San Pedro, where the host (who, by the way, was a man of most genial temperament, fond of a joke and sure to infuse others with his good-heartedness) regaled his friends with a hearty breakfast, not forgetting anything likely to both warm and cheer.  After ample justice had been done to this feature, the picknickers boarded Banning's little steamer <HI REND="italics">Comet</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>There they were transferred to the United States Coast Survey ship <HI REND="italics">Active</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I have said that most of the early political meetings took place at the residence of Don Ygn&aacute;cio del Valle.  I recall, however, a mass meeting and barbecue, in August, 1859, in a grove at El Monte owned by inn-keeper Thompson.  Benches were provided for the ladies, prompting the editor of the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On September 11th, Eberhard &amp; Koll opened the Lafayette Hotel on Main Street, on the site opposite the Bella Union where once had stood the residence of Don Eul&oacute;gio de Celis. Particular inducements to families desiring quiet and the attraction of a table "supplied with the choicest viands and delicacies of the season" were duly advertised; but the proprietors met with only a moderate response.  On January 1st, 1862, Eberhard withdrew and Frederick W. Koll took into partnership Henry Dockweiler--father of two of our very prominent young men, J. H. Dockweiler, the civil engineer and, in 1889, City Surveyor, and Isidore B. Dockweiler, the attorney--and Chris Fluhr.  In two years, Dockweiler had withdrawn, leaving Fluhr as sole proprietor; and he continued as such until, in the seventies, he took Charles Gerson into partnership with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Various influences contributed to causing radical social changes, particularly throughout the county.  When Dr. John. S. Griffin and other pioneers came here, they were astonished at the hospitality of the ranch-owners, who provided for them, however numerous, shelter, food and even fresh saddle-horses; and this bounteous provision for the wayfarer continued until the migrating population had so increased as to become something of a burden and economic conditions put a brake on unlimited entertainment.  Then a slight reaction set in, and by the sixties a movement to demand some compensation for such service began to make itself felt.  In 1859, Don Vicente de la Osa advertised that he would afford accommodation for travelers by way of his ranch, <HI REND="italics">El Encino</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1859, C. H. Classen, a native of Germany, opened a cigar factory in the Signoret Building on Main Street, north of Arcadia; and believing that tobacco could be successfully grown in Los Angeles County, he sent to Cuba for some seed and was soon making cigars from the local product.  I fancy that the plants degenerated because, although others experimented with Los Angeles tobacco, the growing of the leaf here was abandoned after a few years.  H. Newmark &amp; Company handled much tobacco for sheep-wash, and so came to buy the last Southern California crop.  When I speak of sheep-wash, I refer to a solution made by steeping tobacco in water and used to cure a skin disease known as scab.  It was always applied after shearing, for then the wool could not be affected and the process was easier.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Talking of tobacco, I may say that the commercial cigarette now for sale everywhere was not then to be seen.  People rolled their own cigarettes, generally using brown paper, but sometimes the white, which came in reams of sheets about six by ten inches in size.  Kentucky leaf was most in vogue; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:the first brand of granulated tobacco that I remember was known as <HI REND="italics">Sultana</HI>
023.sgm:.  Clay pipes, then packed in barrels, were used a good deal more than now, and brier pipes much less. There was no duty on imported cigars, and their consequent cheapness brought them into general consumption.  Practically all of the native female population smoked cigarettes, for it was a custom of the country; but the American ladies did not indulge.  While spending an enjoyable hour at the County Museum recently, I noticed a cigarette-case of finely woven matting that once belonged to Ant&oacute;nio Mar&iacute;a Lugo, and a bundle of cigarettes, rolled up, like so many matches, by Andr&eacute;s Pico; and both the little <HI REND="italics">cigarillos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Besides the use of tobacco in cigar and cigarette form, and for pipes, there was much consumption of the weed by chewers.  <HI REND="italics">Peachbrand</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The pernicious activity of rough or troublesome characters brings to recollection an aged Indian named Polonia, whom pioneers will easily recollect as having been bereft of his sight, by his own people, because of his unnatural ferocity.  He was six feet four inches in height, and had once been endowed with great physical strength; he was clad, for the most part, in a tattered blanket, so that his mere appearance was sufficient to impress, if not to intimidate, the observer.  Only recently, in fact, Mrs. Solomon Lazard told me that to her and her girl playmates Polonia and his fierce countenance were the terror of their lives.  He may thus have deserved to forfeit his life for many crimes; but the idea of cutting a man's eyes out for any offense whatever, no matter how great, is revolting in the extreme. The year I arrived, and for some time thereafter, Polonia slept by night in the corridor of Don Manuel Requena's house.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in 1859, Daniel Sexton, a veteran of the battles of San Bartolo and the Mesa, became possessed of the idea that gold was secreted in large sacks near the ruins of San Juan Capistrano; and getting permission, he burrowed so far beneath the house of a citizen that the latter, fearing his whole home was likely to cave in, frantically begged the gold-digger to desist.  Sexton, in fact, came near digging his own grave instead of another's, and was for a while the good-natured butt of many a pun.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacob A. Moerenhout, a native of Antwerp, Belgium, who had been French Consul for a couple of years at Monterey, in the latter days of the Mexican <HI REND="italics">regime</HI>
023.sgm:, removed to Los Angeles on October 29th, 1859, on which occasion the Consular flag of France was raised at his residence in this city.  As early as January 13th, 1835, President Andrew Jackson had appointed Moerenhout "U. S. Consul to Otaheite and the Rest of the Society Islands," the original Consular document, with its quaint spelling and signed by the vigorous pen of that President, existing to-day in a collection owned by Dr. E. M. Clinton of Los Angeles; and the Belgian had thus so profited by experience in promoting trade and amicable relations between foreign nations that he was prepared to make himself <HI REND="italics">persona grata</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Surrounded by most of his family, Don Juan Bandini, a distinguished Southern Californian and a worthy member of one of the finest Spanish families here, after a long and painful illness, died at the home of his daughter and son-in-law, Do&ntilde;a Arcadia <illus entity="a023-0072" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">San Pedro Street, near Second, in the Early Seventies</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0073" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Commercial Street, Looking East from Main, about 1870</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0074" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">View of Plaza, Showing the Reservoir</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0075" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Old Lanfranco Block</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>It is natural that I should look back with pleasure and satisfaction to my association with a gentleman so typically Californian, warm-hearted, genial and social in the extreme; and one who dispensed so large and generous a hospitality. He came with his father-who eventually died here and was buried at the old San Gabriel Mission-and at one time possessed the Jurupa <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, where he lived.  Don Juan was a lawyer by profession, and had written the best part of a history of early California, the manuscript of which went to the State University.  The passing glimpse of Bandini, in sunlight and in shadow, recorded by Dana in his classic <HI REND="italics">Two Years before the Mast</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Himself of a good-sized family, Don Juan married twice. His first wife, courted in 1823, was Dolores, daughter of Captain Jos&eacute; Estudillo, a <HI REND="italics">comandante</HI>
023.sgm: at Monterey; and of that union were born Do&ntilde;a Arcadia, first the wife of Abel Stearns and later of Colonel R. S. Baker; Do&ntilde;a Ysidora, who married Lieutenant Cave J. Coutts, a cousin of General Grant; Do&ntilde;a Josefa, later the wife of Pedro C. Carrillo (father of J. J. Carrillo, formerly Marshal here and now Justice  of the Peace at Santa Monica), and the sons, Mar&iacute;a Bandini and Juanito Bandini.  Don Juan's second wife was Ref&uacute;gio, a daughter of Santiago Arguello and a granddaughter of the governor who made the first grants of land to <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The financial depression of 1859 affected the temperament of citizens so much that little or no attention was paid to holidays, with the one exception, perhaps, of the Bella Union's poorly-patronized Christmas dinner; and during 1860 many small concerns closed their doors altogether.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have spoken of the fact that brick was not much used when I first came to Los Angeles, and have shown how it soon after became more popular as a building material.  This was emphasized during 1859, when thirty-one brick buildings, such as they were, were put up.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In December, Benjamin Hayes, then District Judge and holding court in the dingy old adobe at the corner of Spring and Franklin streets, ordered the Sheriff to secure and furnish another place; and despite the fact that there was only a depleted treasury to meet the new outlay of five or six thousand dollars, few persons attempted to deny the necessity.  The fact of the matter was that, when it rained, water actually poured through the ceiling and ran down the court-room walls, spattering over the Judge's desk to such an extent that umbrellas might very conveniently have been brought into use; all of which led to the limit of human patience if not of human endurance.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1859, one of the first efforts toward the formation of a Public Library was made when Felix Bachman, Myer J. Newmark, William H. Workman, Sam Foy, H. S. Allanson and others organized a Library Association, with John Temple as President; J. J. Warner, Vice-President; Francis  Mellus Treasurer; and Israel Fleishman, Secretary.  The Association established a reading-room in Don Abel Stearns's Arcadia Block. An immediate and important acquisition was the collection of books that had been assembled by Henry Mellus for his own home; other citizens contributed books, periodicals and money; and the messengers of the Overland Mail undertook to get such Eastern newspapers as they could for the persual of the library members.  Five dollars was charged as an initiation fee, and a dollar for monthly dues; but insignificant as was the expense, the undertaking was not well patronized by the public, and the project, to the regret of many, had to be abandoned.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>This effort to establish a library recalls an Angele&ntilde;o of the fifties, Ralph Emerson, a cousin, I believe, though somewhat distantly removed, of the famous Concord philosopher.  He lived on the west side of Alameda Street, in an adobe known as Emerson's Row, between First and Aliso streets, where Miss Mary E. Hoyt, assisted by her mother, had a school; and where at one time Emerson, a strong competitor of mine in the hide business, had his office.  Fire destroyed part of their home late in 1859, and again in the following September. Emerson served as a director on the Library Board, both he and his wife being among the most refined and attractive people of the neighborhood.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It must have been late in November that Miss Hoyt announced the opening of her school at No. 2 Emerson Row, in doing which she followed a custom in vogue with private schools at that time and published the endorsements of leading citizens, or patrons.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Again in 1861, Miss. Hoyt advertised to give "instruction in the higher branches of English education, with French, drawing, and ornamental needlework," for five dollars a month; while three dollars was asked for the teaching of the common branches and needlework, and only two dollars for teaching the elementary courses.  Miss Hoyt's move was probably due to the inability of the Board of Education to secure an appropriation with which to pay the public school teachers.  This lack of means led not only to a general discussion of the problem, but to the recommendation that Los Angeles schools be graded and a high school started.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Following a dry year, and especially a fearful heat wave in October which suddenly ran the mercury up to one hundred and ten degrees, December witnessed heavy rains in the mountains inundating both valleys and towns.  On the fourth of December the most disastrous rain known in the history of the Southland set in, precipitating, within a single day and night, twelve inches of water; and causing the rise of the San Gabriel and other rivers to a height never before recorded and such a cataclysm that sand and <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>I have spoken of the Market House built by John Temple for the City.  On December 29th, there was a sale of the stalls by Mayor D. Marchessault; and all except six booths were disposed of, each for the term of three months.  One hundred and seventy-three dollars was the rental agreed upon; and Dodson &amp; Company bid successfully for nine out of thirteen of the stalls.  By the following month, however, complaints were made in the press that, though the City Fathers had "condescended to let the suffering public" have another market, they still prevented the free competition desired; and by the end of August, it was openly charged that the manner in which the City Market was conducted showed "a gross piece of favoritism," and that the City Treasury on this account would suffer a monthly loss of one hundred dollars in rents alone.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About 1859, John Murat, following in the wake of Henry Kuhn, proprietor of the New York Brewery, established the Gambrinus in the block bounded by Los Angeles, San Pedro and First and what has become Second streets.  The brewery, notwithstanding its spacious yard, was anything but an extensive institution, and the quality of the product dispensed to the public left much to be desired; but it was beer, and Murat has the distinction of having been one of the first Los Angeles brewers.  The New York's spigot, a suggestive souvenir of those convivial days picked up by George W. Hazard, now enriches a local museum.</P>
023.sgm:<P>These reminiscences recall still another brewer--Christian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>How great were the problems confronting the national government in the development of our continent may be gathered from the strenuous efforts--and their results--to encourage an overland mail route.  Six hundred thousand dollars a year was the subsidy granted the Butterfield Company for running two mail coaches each way a week; yet the postal revenue for the first year was but twenty-seven thousand dollars, leaving a deficit of more than half a million! But this was not all that was discouraging: politicians attacked the stage route administration, and then the newspapers had to come to the rescue and point out the advantages as compared with the ocean routes.  Indians, also, were an obstacle; and with the arrival of every stage, one expected to hear the sensational story of ambushing and murder rather than the yarn of a monotonous trip.  When new reports of such outrages were brought in, new outcries were raised and new petitions, calling on the Government for protection, were hurriedly circulated.</P>
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023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII<LB>FIRST EXPERIENCE WITH THE TELEGRAPH<LB>1860</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>IN 1860, Maurice Kremer was elected County Treasurer, succeeding H. N. Alexander who had entered the service of Wells Fargo &amp; Company; and he attended to this new function at his store on Commercial Street, where he kept the County funds.  I had my office in the same place; and the salary of the Treasurer at the time being but one hundred and twenty-five dollars a month, with no allowance for an assistant, I agreed to act as Deputy Treasurer without pay.  As a matter of fact, I was a sort of Emergency Deputy only, and accepted the responsibility as an accommodation to Kremer, in order that when he was out of town there might be someone to take charge of his affairs.  It is very evident, however, that I did not appreciate the danger connected with this little courtesy, since it often happened that there were from forty to fifty thousand dollars in the money-chest.  An expert burglar could have opened the safe without special effort, and might have gone scot-free,for the only protector at night was my nephew, Kaspare Cohn, a mere youth, who clerked for me and slept on the premises.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Inasmuch as no bank had as yet been established in Los Angeles, Kremer carried the money to Sacramento twice a year; nor was this transportation of the funds, first by steamer to San Francisco, thence by boat inland, without danger.  The State was full of desperate characters who would cut a throat or scuttle a ship for a great deal less than the amount involved.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On January 2d, Joseph Paulding, a Marylander, died. Twenty-seven years before, he came by way of the Gila, and boasted having made the first two mahogany billiard tables constructed in California.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The same month, attention was directed to a new industry, the polishing and mounting of <HI REND="italics">abalone</HI>
023.sgm: shells, then as now found on the coast of Southern California.  A year or so later, G. Fischer was displaying a shell brooch, colored much like an opal and mounted in gold.  By 1866, the demand for <HI REND="italics">abalone</HI>
023.sgm: shells had so increased that over fourteen thousand dollars' worth was exported from San Francisco, while a year later consignments valued at not less than thirty-six thousand dollars were sent out through the Golden Gate.  Even though the taste of to-day considers this shell as hardly deserving of such a costly setting, it is nevertheless true that these early ornaments, much handsomer than many specimens of quartz jewelry, soon became quite a fad in Los Angeles.  Natives and Indians, especially, took a fancy to the <HI REND="italics">abalone</HI>
023.sgm: shell, and even much later earrings of that material were worn by the Crow scout Curley, a survivor of the Custer Massacre.  In 1874, R. W. Jackson, a shell-jeweler on Montgomery Street, San Francisco, was advertising here for the rarities, offering as much as forty and fifty dollars for a single sound red, black or silver shell, and from fifty to one hundred dollars for a good green or blue one.  Incidentally, it is interesting to note that the Chinese consumed the <HI REND="italics">abalone</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Broom-making was a promising industry in the early sixties, the Carpenters of Los Nietos and F. W. Gibson of El Monte being among the pioneers in this handiwork.  Several thousand brooms were made in that year; and since they brought three dollars a dozen, and cost but eleven cents each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Major Edward Harold Fitzgerald, well known for campaigns against both Indians and bandits, died on January 9th and was buried with military honors.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On January 10th, Bartholomew's Rocky Mountain Circus held forth on the Plaza, people coming in from miles around to see the show.  It was then that the circus proprietor sought to quiet the nerves of the anxious by the large-lettered announcement, "A strict Police is engaged for the occasion!"</P>
023.sgm:<P>The printing of news, editorials and advertisements in both English and Spanish recalls again not only some amusing incidents in court activities resulting from the inability of jurists and others to understand the two languages, but also the fact that in the early sixties sermons were preached in the Catholic Church at Los Angeles in English and Spanish, the former being spoken at one mass, the latter at another.  English proper names such as John and Benjamin were Spanished into Juan and Benito, and common Spanish terms persisted in English advertisements, as when Don Juan &Aacute;vila and Fernando Sep&uacute;lveda, in January, announced that they would run the horse <HI REND="italics">Coyote</HI>
023.sgm: one thousand <HI REND="italics">varas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A letter to the editor of the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:, published on January 28th, 1860, will confirm my comments on the primitive school conditions in Los Angeles in the first decade or two after I came.  The writer complained of the filthy condition of the Boys' Department, School No. 1, in which, to judge by the mud, "the floor did not seem to have been swept for months!" The editor then took up the cudgel, saying that the Board formerly paid a man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:for keeping the schoolroom clean, but that the Common Council had refused any longer to pass the janitor's bills; adding that, in his opinion, the Council had acted wisely!  If the teacher had really wished the schoolroom floor to be clean, contended the economical editor, he should have appointed a pupil to swing a broom each day or, at least, <HI REND="italics">each week</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The year 1860 witnessed the death of Don Ant&oacute;nio Mar&iacute;a Lugo--brother of Don Jos&eacute; Ygn&aacute;cio Lugo, grandfather of the Wolfskills--uncle of General Vallejo and the father-in-law of Colonel Isaac Williams, who preceded Lugo to the grave by four years.  For a long time, Lugo lived in a spacious adobe built in 1819 near the present corner of East Second and San Pedro streets, and there the sons, for whom he obtained the San Bernardino <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, were born.  In earlier days, or from 1813, Don Ant&oacute;nio lived on the San Ant&oacute;nio Ranch near what is now Compton; and so well did he prosper there that eleven leagues were not enough for the support of his cattle and flocks. It was a daughter of Lugo who, having married a Perez and being made a widow, became the wife of Stephen C. Foster, her daughter in turn marrying Wallace Woodworth and becoming Maria Ant&oacute;nia Perez de Woodworth; and Lugo, who used to visit them and the business establishments of the town, was a familiar figure as a sturdy <HI REND="italics">caballero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>About the middle of February, John Temple fitted up tho large hail over the City Market as a theater, providing for it a stage some forty-five by twenty feet in size--in those days considered an abundance of platform space--and a "private box" on each side, whose possession became at once the ambition of every Los Angeles gallant.  Temple brought an artist from San Francisco to paint the scenery, Los Angeles then boasting of no one clever enough for the work; and the same genius surpervised the general decoration of the house.  What was considered a record-breaking effort at making the public <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:comfortable was undertaken in furnishing the parquet with armchairs and in filling the gallery with two tiers of raised benches, guaranteeing some chance of looking over any broad <HI REND="italics">sombreros</HI>
023.sgm: in front; and to cap the enterprise, Temple brought down a company of players especially to dedicate his new house. About February 20th, the actors arrived on the old <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The spring of 1860 was notable for the introduction of the Pony Express as a potent factor in the despatch of transcontinental mail; and although this new service never included Los Angeles as one of its terminals, it greatly shortened the time required  and, naturally if indirectly, benefited the Southland.  Speed was, indeed, an ambition of the new management, and some rather extraordinary results were attained. About April 20th, soon after the Pony Express was started, messages were rushed through from St. Louis to San Francisco in eight and a half days; and it was noised about that the Butterfields planned a rival pony express, over a route three hundred miles shorter, that would reach the Coast in seven days.  About the end of April, mail from London and Liverpool reached Los Angeles in twenty or twenty-one days; and I believe that the fastest time that the Pony Express ever made was in March, 1861, when President Lincoln's message was brought here in seven days and seventeen hours.  This was somewhat quicker than the passage of the report about Fort Sumter, a month afterward, which required twelve days, and considerably faster than the transmission, by the earlier methods of 1850, of the intelligence that California had been admitted to the Union-a bit of news of the greatest possible importance yet not at all known here, I have been told, until six weeks after Congress enacted the law!  Which reminds me that the death of Elizabeth Barrett Browning, the poet, although occurring in Italy on June 29th, 1861, was first announced in Los Angeles on the seventeenth of the following August!</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In February or March, the sewer crossing Los Angeles Street and connecting the Bella Union with the <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Competition for Government trade was keen in the sixties, and energetic efforts were made by merchants to secure their share of the crumbs, as well as the loaves, that might fall from Uncle Sam's table.  For that reason, Captain Winfield Scott Hancock easily added to his popularity as Quartermaster, early in 1860, by preparing a map in order to show the War Department the relative positions of the various military posts in this district, and to emphasize the proximity of Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>One day in the Spring a stranger called upon me with the interesting information that he was an inventor, which led me to observe that someone ought to devise a contrivance with which to pluck oranges--an operation then performed by climbing into the trees and pulling the fruit from the branches. Shortly after the interview, many of us went to the grove of Jean Louis Sainsevain to see a simple, but ingenious appliance for picking the golden fruit.  A pair of pincers on a light pole were operated from below by a wire; and when the wire was pulled, the fruit, quite unharmed by scratch or pressure, fell safely into a little basket fastened close to the pincers.  In the same year, Pierre Sainsevain established the first California wine house in New York and bought the Cucamonga vineyard, where he introduced new and better varieties of grapes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Small as was the population of Los Angeles County at about this time, there was nevertheless for a while an exodus to Texas, due chiefly to the difficulty experienced by white immigrants in competing with Indian ranch and vineyard laborers.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the middle of March, much interest was manifested in the welfare of a native Californian named Serbo--sometimes erroneously given as Serbulo and even Cervelo--Varela who, under the influence of bad whiskey, had assaulted and nearly killed a companion, and who seemed certain of a long term in the State prison.  It was recalled, however, that when in the fall of 1846, the fiendish Flores, resisting the invasion of the United States forces, had captured a number of Americans and condemned them to be dragged out and shot, Varela, then a soldier under Flores, and a very brave fellow, broke from the ranks, denounced the act as murder, declared that the order should never be carried out except over his dead body, and said and did such a number of things more or less melodramatic that he finally saved the lives of the American prisoners.  Great sympathy was expressed, therefore, when it was discovered that this half-forgotten hero was in the toils; and few persons, if any, were sorry when Varela was induced to plead guilty to assault and battery, enabling the court to deal leniently with him.  Varela became more and more addicted to strong drink; and some years later he was the victim of foul play, his body being found in an unfrequented part of the town.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A scrap-book souvenir of the sixties gives us an idyllic view of contemporaneous pueblo life, furnishing, at the same time, an idea of the newspaper English of that day.  It reads as follows:</P>
023.sgm:<P>With the exception of a little legitimate shooting affair last Saturday night, by which some fellow had well-nigh the top of his head knocked off, and one or two knock-downs and drag-outs, we have had a very peaceful week indeed.  Nothing has occurred to disturb the even tenor of our way, and our good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The demand for better lighting facilities led the Common Council to make a contract, toward the end of March, with Tiffany &amp; Wethered, who were given a franchise to lay pipes through the streets and to establish gas-works here; but the attempt proved abortive.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In this same year, the trip east by the Overland Stage Route, which had formerly required nearly a month, was accomplished in eighteen or nineteen days; and toward the end of March, the Overland Company replaced the "mud-wagons" they had been using between Los Angeles and San Francisco with brightly-painted and better-upholstered Concord coaches. Then the Los Angeles office was on Spring Street, between First and second-on the lot later bought by Louis Roeder for a wagon-shop, and now the site of the Roeder Block; and there, for the price of two hundred dollars, tickets could be obtained for the entire journey to St. Louis.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foreign coin circulated in Los Angeles, as I have said, for many years, and even up to the early sixties Mexican money was accepted at par with our own.  Improved facilities for intercourse with the outside world, however, affected the markets here, and in the spring of that year several merchants refused to receive the specie of our southern neighbor at more than its actual value as silver.  As a result, these dealers,though perhaps but following the trend elsewhere, were charged openly with a combination to obtain an illegitimate profit.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1860, while Dr. T. J. White was Postmaster, a regulation was made ordering all mail not called for to be sent to the Dead Letter Office in Washington, within a week after such mail had been advertised; but it was not until the fall of 1871 that this order was really put into operation in our neighborhood.  For some time this worked great hardship on many people living in the suburbs who found it impossible to call <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Political enthusiasm was keen in early days, as is usual in small towns, and victorious candidates, at least, knew how to celebrate.  On Monday, May 7th, 1860, Henry Mellus was elected Mayor; and next day, he and the other City officers paraded our streets in a four-horse stagecoach with a brass band.  The Mayor-elect and his <HI REND="italics">confr&egrave;res</HI>
023.sgm:<P>More than a ripple of excitement was produced in Los Angeles about the middle of May, when Jack Martin, Billy Holcomb and Jim Ware, in from Bear Valley, ordered provisions and paid for the same in shining gold dust.  It was previously known that they had gone out to hunt for bear, and their sudden return with this precious metal, together with their desire to pick up a few appliances such as are not ordinarily used in trapping, made some of the hangers-on about the store suspicious.  The hunters were secretly followed, and were found to return to what is now Holcomb Valley; and then it was learned that gold had been discovered there about the first of the month.  For a year or two, many mining camps were formed in Holcomb and Upper Holcomb valleys, and in that district the town of Belleville was founded; but the gold, at first apparently so plentiful, soon gave out, and the excitement incidental to the discovery subsided.</P>
023.sgm:<P>While some men were thus digging for treasure, others sought fortune in the deep.  Spearing sharks, as well as whales, was an exciting industry at this period; sharks running in large numbers along the coast, and in the waters of San Pedro Bay. In May, Orin Smith of Los Angeles, with the aid of his son, in one day caught one hundred and three sharks, from which he took only the livers; these, when boiled, yielding oil which, burned fairly well, even in its crude state.  During the next year, shark-hunting near Rattlesnake Island continued moderately remunerative.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in the spring, another effort was made to establish a tannery here and hopes were entertained that an important trade might thus be founded.  But the experiment came to naught, and even to-day Los Angeles can boast of no tannery such as exists in several other California cities.</P>
023.sgm:<P>With the approach of summer, Elijah and William H. Workman built a brick dwelling on Main Street, next to Tom Rowan's bakery, and set around it trees of several varieties. The residence, then one of the prettiest in town, was built for the boys' mother; and there, with her, they dwelt.</P>
023.sgm:<P>That sectarian activity regarding public schools is nothing new in Los Angeles may be shown from an incident, not without its humorous side, of the year 1860.  T. J. Harvey appeared with a broadside in the press, protesting against the reading of the Bible in schoolrooms, and saying that he, for one, would "never stand it, come what may."  Some may still remember his invective and his pyrotechnical conclusion:  " <HI REND="italics">Revolution! War!! Blood!!!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>During Downey's incumbency as Governor, the Legislature passed a law, popularly known as the Bulkhead Bill, authorizing the San Francisco Dock and Wharf Company to build a stone bulkhead around the water-front of the Northern city, in return for which the company was to have the exclusive privilege of collecting tolls and wharfage for the long period of fifty years, a franchise the stupendous value of which even the projectors of that date could scarcely have anticipated.  Downey, when the measure came before him for final action, vetoed the bill and thus performed a judicious act--perhaps  the most meritorious of his administration.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whether Downey, who on January 9th had become Governor, was really popular for any length of time, even in the vicinity of his home, may be a question; but his high office and the fact that he was the first Governor from the Southland assured him a hearty welcome whenever he came down here from the capital.  In June Downey returned to Los Angeles, accompanied by his wife, and took rooms at the Bella Union hotel, and besides the usual committee visits, receptions and speeches from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1860, a number of delegates, including Casper Behrendt and myself, were sent to San Francisco to attend the laying of the corner-stone, on the twenty-fifth of June, of the Masonic Temple at the corner of Post and Montgomery streets.  We made the trip when the weather was not only excessively hot, but the sand was a foot deep and headway very slow; so that, although we were young men and enjoyed the excursion, we could not laugh down all of the disagreeable features of the journey.  It was no wonder, therefore, that when we arrived at Visalia, where we were to change horses, Behrendt wanted a shave.  While he was in the midst of this tonsorial refreshment, the stage started on its way to San Francisco; and as Behrendt heard it passing the shop, he ran out--with one side of his face smooth and clean, while the other side was whiskered and grimy-and tried to stop the disappearing vehicle.  Despite all of his yelling and running, however, the stage did not stop; and finally, Behrendt fired his pistol several times into the air. This attracted the attention of the sleepy driver, who took the puffing passenger on board; whereupon the rest of us chaffed him about his singular appearance.  Behrendt<ANCHOR ID="n18-19">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-19">Died November 19th, 1913.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>In connection with this anecdote of the trip to San Francisco, I may add another story.  On board the stage was Frederick J. McCrellish, editor of the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
023.sgm: --the principal Coast paper, bought by McCrellish &amp; Company in 1858-and also Secretary of the telegraph company at that time building its line between San Francisco and Los Angeles.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>It has been stated that the population of Los Angeles in 1850 was but sixteen hundred and ten.  How true that is I cannot tell.  When I came to the city in 1853, there were some twenty-six hundred people.  In the summer of 1860 a fairly accurate census was made, and it was found that our little town had four thousand three hundred and ninety-nine inhabitants.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Two distinguished military men visited Los Angeles in the midsummer of 1860.  The first was General James Shields who, in search of health, arrived by the Overland Route on the twenty-fourth of July, having just finished his term in the Senate.  The effect of wounds received at the battle of Cerro Gordo, years before, and reports as to the climate of California started the General westward; and quietly he alighted from the stage at the door of the Bella Union.  After a while, General Shields undertook the superintending of a Mexican mine; but at the outbreak of the Civil War, although not entirely recovered, he hastened back to Washington and was at once appointed a Brigadier-General of volunteers.  The rest of his career is known.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A week later, General, or as he was then entitled, Colonel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Alexander Godey, to whose <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>By 1860, the Germans were well-organized and active here in many ways, a German Benevolent Society, called the Eintracht, which met Tuesday and Friday evenings in the Arcadia Block for music drill under Director Heinsch, affording stimulating entertainment and accomplishing much good.  The Turnverein, on the other hand, took an interest in the success of the Round House, and on March 12th put up a liberty pole on top of the oddly-shaped building.  Lager beer and other things deemed by the Teutonic brethren essential to a Garden of Paradise and to such an occasion were freely dispensed; and on that day Lehman was in all his glory.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A particular feature of this Garden of Paradise was a cabbage, about which have grown up some traditions of the Brobdingnagian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:sort that the reader may accept <HI REND="italics">in toto</HI>
023.sgm: or with a grain of salt. It was planted when the place was opened, and is said to have attained, by December, 1859, a height of twelve feet, "with a circumference" (so averred an ambiguous chronicler of the period, referring doubtless to crinolines) "equal to that of any fashionably-attired city belle measuring eight or ten feet."  By July, 1860, the cabbage attained a growth, so the story goes, of fourteen feet four inches although, George always claimed, it had been cropped twenty or more times and its leaves used for <HI REND="italics">Kohlslau, Sauerkraut</HI>
023.sgm:<P>THE GARDEN OF PARADISE.  Our friend George of the Round House, who there keeps a garden with the above captivating name, was one of the few who done honor to the Fourth. He kept the National Ensign at the fore, showed his fifteen-foot cabbage, and dealt <HI REND="italics">Lager</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Among the popular pleasure-resorts of 1860 was  the Tivoli Garden on the Wolfskill Road, conducted by Charles Kaiser, who called his friends together by placarding the legend, "Hurrah for the Tivoli!"  Music and other amusements were provided every Sunday, from two o'clock, and dancing could be enjoyed until late in the night; and as there was no charge for admission, the place was well patronized.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When the Fourth of July, 1859, approached and no preparation had been made to observe the holiday, some children who were being instructed in calisthenics by A. F. Tilden began to solicit money, their childish enthusiasm resulting in the appointing of a committee, the collecting of four hundred dollars, and a picnic in Don Luis Sainsevain's enclosed garden. A year later, Tilden announced that he would open a place for gymnastic exercises in "Temple's New Block;" charging men three dollars for the use of the apparatus and the privilege of a shower-bath, and training boys at half rates.  This was the origin of systematic physical culture in Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX<LB>STEAM-WAGON--ODD CHARACTERS<LB>1860</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>EARLY in 1860, Phineas Banning and J. J. Tomlinson, the energetic rivals in lighterage and freighting at San Pedro, embarked as lumber merchants, thereby anticipating the enormous trade that has flowed for years past from the North through Los Angeles to Southern California and Arizona.  Having many teams, they hauled lumber, when traffic was not sufficient to keep their wagon-trains busy, from the harbor to the city or even, when there was need, to the <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>At this time, Joseph Everhardt, who, with Frederick W. Koll, had conducted the Lafayette Hotel, sold out and moved to San Francisco, marrying Miss R. Mayer, now John Lang's widow, sister-in-law of Kiln Messer.  Later, Everhardt went to Sonoma and then to Victoria, B. C., in each place making his mark; and in the latter city he died.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Like both Messer and Lang, Everhardt had passed through varied and trying experiences. The owner of the Russ Garden restaurant in 1849, in lively San Francisco, he came to Los Angeles and took hold of the hotel Lafayette.  With him was a partner named Fucht; but a free fight and display of shooting irons, such as often enlivened a California hotel, having sent the guests and hangers-on scurrying to quarters, induced Fucht to sell out his interests in very short order, whereupon Everhardt took in with him Frederick W. Koll, who lived on a site now the southeast corner of Seventh and Spring streets where he had an orange-grove.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pursuing Indians was dangerous in the extreme, as Robert Wilburn found when he went after some twenty head of cattle stolen from Felix Bachman by Pi-Ute or Paiute Indians in January, 1860, during one of their marauding expeditions into California.  Wilburn chased the red men but he never came back; and when his body was found, it was pierced with three or four arrows, probably shot at him simultaneously by as many of the cattle-thieves.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Don Tom&aacute;s A. Sanchez, Sheriff from 1860 to 1867, had a record for physical courage and prowess, having previously been an officer under Pico in the Mexican War days, and having later aided Pico in his efforts to punish Barton's murderers. Sanchez had property; and in 1887 a patent was granted his estate for four thousand or more acres in the ranch known as <HI REND="italics">Ci&eacute;nega &oacute; Paso de la Tijera</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Destructive fires in the open country, if not as common as now, still occasionally stirred our citizens.  Such a fire broke out in the San Fernando Valley in the middle of July, and spread so rapidly that a square mile and a half of territory was denuded and charred.  Not only were there no organized means to fight such fires, but men were compelled to sound the alarm through couriers on horseback; and if the wind happened to be blowing across the plains, even the fleetest horseman had all he could do to avoid the flames and reach in time the widely separated <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm:.  Here I may add that as late as the sixties all of the uninhabited parts of Los Angeles, especially to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>So wretched were the roads in the early decades after my arrival, and so many were the plans proposed for increasing the rapidity of travel, that great curiosity was excited in 1860 when it was announced that Phineas Banning had bought a "steam-wagon" and would soon introduce a kind of vehicle such as Los Angeles, at least, had never before seen.  This steam-wagon was a traction engine built by J. Whitman &amp; Sons, at Leeds, England, and was already on its way across the ocean. It had been ordered by Richard A. Ogden, of San Francisco, for the Patagonia Copper Mining Company, a trial before shipping having proved that, with a load of thirty-eight tons, the engine could attain a speed of five miles an hour; and Banning paid handsomely for the option of purchasing the vehicle, on condition that it would ultimately prove a success.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The announcement was made in April, and by early June the engine had reached San Francisco where it made the run to Mission Dolores in three-quarters of an hour.  All the San Francisco papers told of "the truly wonderful machine," one reporter averring that "the engineer had so perfect control that a visit was made to various parts of the city, to the astonishment and gratification of the multitude;" and since these accounts were immediately copied by the Los Angeles papers (which added the official announcement that Captain Hughes had loaded the engine on board his schooner, the <HI REND="italics">Lewis Perry</HI>
023.sgm:, and was bringing it south as fast as he could), popular excitement rose like the mercury in summer, and but one more report was needed to make it the absorbing talk of the hour. That came on the twenty-eighth of July, when the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>And wait they did.  Although the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm: said that "all our citizens were anxiously, hourly, expecting to see Major Banning heave in sight at the foot of Main Street," no Banning hove!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Instead, on the fourth of August, the same <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In every community there are characters who, for one reason or another, develop among their fellows a reputation for oddity.  We have all seen the good-natured, rather stout old gentleman, whose claim to dignity is his old-fashioned Prince Albert and rather battered-looking silk hat, but who, although he boasts many friends, is never successful in the acquisition of this world's goods.  We have seen, too, the vender of ice cream, <HI REND="italics">tamales</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Viejo Cholo, or Old Half-breed, a Mexican over sixty years of age who was never known by any other name, was such an eccentric character.  He was half blind; wore a pair of white linen pantaloons, and for a mantle used an old sheet.  This he threw over his shoulders; and thus accoutered, he strutted about the streets like a Spanish cavalier.  His cane was a broom-handle; his lunch-counter, the swill-bucket; and when times were particularly bad, Viejo begged.  The youngsters of the pueblo were the bane of Cholo's existence and the torment of his infirmity and old age.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cholo was succeeded by Pinikahti, who was half Indian and half Mexican.  He was not over four feet in height and had a flat nose, a stubby beard and a face badly pockmarked; and he presented, altogether, as unkempt and obnoxious an appearance as one might imagine.  Pinikahti was generally attired in a well-worn straw hat, the top of which was missing, and his long, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:straight hair stuck out in clumps and snarls.  A woolen undershirt and a pair of overalls completed his costume, while his toes, as a rule, protruded from his enormous boots.  Unlike Viejo Cholo, Pinikahti was permitted to go unmolested by the juvenile portion of the population, inasmuch as, though half-witted, he was somewhat of an entertainer; for it was natural for him to play the flute and--what was really interesting--he made his own instruments out of the reed that grew along the river banks.  Pinikahti cut just the holes, I suppose, that produced what seemed to him proper harmony, and on these home-made flutes performed such airs as his wandering fancy suggested. He always played weird tunes and danced strange Indian dances; and through these crude gifts he became, as I have said, sufficiently popular to enjoy some immunity.  Nevertheless, he was a professional beggar; and whatever he did to afford amusement, was done, after all, for money.  This was easily explained, for money alone would buy <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
023.sgm:, and Pinikahti had little use for anything else.  <HI REND="italics">Aguardiente</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in the eventful sixties, a tall, angular, muscular-looking woman was here, who went by the singular <HI REND="italics">sobriquet</HI>
023.sgm: of Captain Jinks, a title which she received from a song then very popular, the first couplet of which ran something like this:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I'm Captain Jinks of the Horse Marines,<LB>I feed my horse on pork and beans!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>She half strode, half jerked her way along the street, as though scanning the lines of that ditty with her feet.  She was strong for woman's rights, she said; and she certainly looked it.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chinamen were not only more numerous by 1860, but they had begun to vary their occupations, many working as servants, laundrymen or farm hands.  In March, a Chinese company was also organized to compete for local fish trade.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1860, &eacute;mile Bordenave &amp; Company opened the Louisiana Coffee Saloon as a French restaurant.  Roast duck and oysters were their specialty, and they charged fifty cents a meal.  But they also served "a plate at one bit."<ANCHOR ID="n19-20">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-20">Twelve and one-half cents.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>James, often called Santiago Johnson, who, for a short time prior to his death about 1860 or 1861, was a forwarder of freight at San Pedro, came to Los Angeles in 1833 with a cargo of Mexican and Chinese goods, and after that owned considerable ranch property.  In addition to ranching, he also engaged extensively in cattle-raising.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Peter, popularly known as Pete or Bully Wilson, a native of Sweden, came to Los Angeles about 1860.  He ran a one horse dray; and as soon as he had accumulated sufficient money, he bought, for twelve hundred dollars, the southeast corner of Spring and First streets, where he had his stable. He continued to prosper; and his family still enjoy the fruits of his industry.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The same year, George Smith started to haul freight and baggage.  He had four horses hitched to a sombre-looking vehicle nicknamed the <HI REND="italics">Black Swan</HI>
023.sgm:<P>J. D. Yates was a grocer and provision-dealer of 1860, with a store on the Plaza.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have referred to Bishop Amat as presiding over the Diocese of Monterey and Los Angeles; but Los Angeles was linked with Monterey, for a while, even in judicial matters. Beginning with 1860 or 1861 (when Fletcher M. Haight, father of Governor H. H. Haight, was the first Judge to preside), the United States Court for the Southern District of California was held alternately in the two towns mentioned, Colonel J. O. Wheeler serving as Clerk and the Court for the Southern term occupying seven rooms of the second story of John Temple's Block.  These alternate sessions continued to be held until about 1866 when the tribunal for the Southern District ceased to exist and Angele&ntilde;os were compelled to apply to the court in San Francisco.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>For years, such was the neglect of the Protestant burial ground that in 1860 caustic criticism was made by each newspaper discussing the condition of the cemetery: there was no fence, headstones were disfigured or demolished, and there was little or no protection to the graves.  As a matter of fact, when the cemetery on Fort Hill was abandoned, but few of the bodies were removed.</P>
023.sgm:<P>By 1860, the New England Fire Insurance Company, of Hartford, Connecticut, was advertising here through its local agent, H. Hamilton--our friend of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>H. Newmark &amp; Company also sold insurance somewhat later, representing the Commercial Union Insurance Company. About 1880, however, they disposed of their insurance interests to Maurice Kremer, whose main competitor was W. J. Brodrick; and from this transaction developed the firm of Kremer, Campbell &amp; Company, still in that business.  Not only in this connection but elsewhere in these memoirs it may be noted how little specialization there was in earlier days in Los Angeles; in fact it was not until about 1880 that this process, distinctive of economic progress, began to appear in Los Angeles.  I myself have handled practically every staple that makes up the very great proportion of merchandising activity, whereas my successors of to-day, as well as their competitors, deal only in groceries and kindred lines.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Two brothers, &eacute;mile and Th&eacute;ophile Vach&eacute;, in the fall of 1860, started what has become the oldest firm--Vach&eacute; Fr&egrave;res--in the local wine business, at first utilizing the Bernard residence at Alameda and Third streets, in time used by the Government as a bonded warehouse.  Later, they removed to the building on Aliso Street Once occupied by the Medical College, where the cellars proved serviceable for a winery.  There they attempted the manufacture of cream of tartar from wine-crystals, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On September 21st, Captain W. S. Hancock, who first came to Los Angeles in connection with the expedition against the Mojave Indians in 1858, sought to establish a new kind of express between Los Angeles and Fort Mojave, and sent out a camel in charge of Greek George to make the trial trip.  When they had been gone two and a half days, the regular express messenger bound for Los Angeles met them at Lane's Crossing, apparently in none too promising a condition; which later gave rise to a report that the camel had died on the desert.  This occasioned numerous newspaper squibs <HI REND="italics">&agrave; propos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>BY POULTERER, DE RO &amp; ELDRIDGE</P>
023.sgm:<P>OFFICE AND SALESROOM, CORNER CALIFORNIA &amp; FRONT STREETS, SAN FRANCISCO</P>
023.sgm:<P>PEREMPTORY SALE</P>
023.sgm:<P>OF</P>
023.sgm:<P>BACTRIAN CAMELS</P>
023.sgm:<P>IMPORTED FROM THE AMOOR RIVER</P>
023.sgm:<P>EX CAROLINE E. FOOTE.</P>
023.sgm:<P>ON WEDNESDAY, OCT. 10, 1860,</P>
023.sgm:<P>WE WILL SELL AT PUBLIC AUCTION</P>
023.sgm:<P>IN LOTS TO SUIT PURCHASERS,</P>
023.sgm:<P>FOR CASH,</P>
023.sgm:<P>13 BACTRIAN CAMELS,</P>
023.sgm:<P>From a cold and mountainous country, comprising 6 males and 7 females, (5 being with young,) all in fine health and condition.</P>
023.sgm:<P>*** For further particulars, inquire of the Auctioneers.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1858, Richard Garvey came to Los Angeles and entered the Government service as a messenger, between this city and New Mexico, for Captain W. S. Hancock.  Later, he went to the Holcomb Valley mines, where he first met Lucky Baldwin; and by 1872 he had disposed of some San Bernardino mine properties at a figure which seemed to permit his retirement and ease for the rest of his life.  For the next twenty years, he was variously employed,. at times operating for Baldwin.  Garvey is at present living in Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>What was one of the last bullfights here, toward the end of September, when a little child was trodden upon in the ring, reminds me not only of the succeeding sports, including horse-racing, but as well that Francis Temple should be credited with encouraging the importation and breeding of good horses. In 1860 he paid seven thousand dollars, then considered an enormous sum, for <HI REND="italics">Black Warrior</HI>
023.sgm:; and not long afterward he bought <HI REND="italics">Billy Blossom</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A political gathering or two enlivened the year 1860.  In July, when the local sentiment was, to all appearances, strongly in favor of Breckenridge and Lane, the Democratic candidates for President and Vice-President, one hundred guns were fired in their honor; and great was the jubilation of the Democratic hosts.  A later meeting, under the auspices of the Breckenridge Club, was held in front of the Montgomery saloon on Main Street.  Judge Dryden presided, and Senator Milton S. Latham was the chief speaker.  A number of ladies graced the occasion, some seated in chairs near by and others remaining in their vehicles drawn up in a semicircle before the speaker's stand.  As a result of all this effort, the candidates in question did lead in the race here, but only by four votes.  On counting the ballots the day after election, it was found that Breckenridge had two hundred and sixty-seven votes, while Douglas, the Independent Democratic nominee, had polled two hundred and sixty-three.  Of permanent interest, perhaps, as showing the local sentiment on other questions of the time, is that Lincoln received in Los Angeles only one hundred and seventy-nine votes.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Generally, a candidate persuaded his friends to nominate and endorse him, but now and then one came forward and addressed the public directly.  In the fall of 1860, the following announcement appeared in the <HI REND="italics">Southern News</HI>
023.sgm:<P>TO THE VOTERS OF LOS ANGELES TOWNSHIP:</P>
023.sgm:<P>I am a candidate for the office of Justice of the Peace, and I desire to say to you, frankly, that I want you all to vote for me on the 6th of November next.  I aspire to the office for two reasons,--first, because I am vain enough to believe that I am capable of performing the duties required, with credit to myself and to the satisfaction of all good citizens; second, because I am poor, and am desiring of making an honest living thereby.</P>
023.sgm:<P>WILLIAM G. STILL.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During my first visit to San Francisco, in the fall of 1853, and while <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
023.sgm: to Los Angeles, my attention was called to a line of electric telegraph, then just installed between the Golden Gate and the town, for use in reporting the arrival of vessels.  About a month later a line was built from San Francisco to Sacramento, Stockton and around to San Jos&eacute;.  Nothing further, however, was done toward reaching Southern California with the electric wire until the end of May or the beginning of June, 1860, when President R. E. Raimond and Secretary Fred. J. McCrellish (promoters of the Pacific &amp; Atlantic Telegraph Company, organized in 1858 to reach San Ant&oacute;nio, Texas, and Memphis, Tennessee) came to Los Angeles to lay the matter before our citizens.  Stock was soon subscribed for a line through the city and as far as Fort Yuma, and in a few days Banning had fifty teams ready to haul the telegraph poles, which were deposited in time along the proposed route.  In the beginning, interest was stimulated by the promise that the telegraph would be in operation by the Fourth of July; but Independence Day came and went, and the best that the telegraph company could do was to make the ambiguous report <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Finally, at eight o'clock on October 8th, 1860, a few magic words from the North were ticked out in the Los Angeles office of the telegraph company.  Two hours later, as those familiar with our local history know, Mayor Henry Mellus sent the following memorable message to H. F. Teschemacher, President of the San Francisco Board of Supervisors:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Allow me, on behalf of the citizens of Los Angeles, to send you greeting of fellowship and good-feeling on the completion of the line of telegraph which now binds the two cities together.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whereupon, the next day, President Teschemacher (who, by the way, was a well-known importer, having brought the first almond seed from the Mediterranean in the early fifties) replied to Mayor Mellus:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Your despatch has just been received.  On behalf of the citizens of San Francisco, I congratulate Los Angeles, trusting that the benefit may be mutual.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A ball in Los Angeles fittingly celebrated the event, as will be seen from the following despatch, penned by Henry D. Barrows, who was then Southern California correspondent of the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:</PAGEINFO><P>LOS ANGELES, OCTOBER 9, 1860, 10.45 A. M.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Here is the maiden salutation of Los Angeles to San Francisco by lightning!  This despatch--the first to the press from this point--the correspondent of the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Barrows' telegram concluded with the statement, highly suggestive of the future commercial possibilities of the telegraph, that the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On October 16th, the steamer <HI REND="italics">J. T. Wright</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Leonard John Rose, a German by birth, and brother-in-law of H. K. S. O'Melveny, arrived with his family by the Butterfield Stage Route in November, having fought and conquered, so to speak, every step of his way from Illinois, from which State, two years before, he had set out.  Rose and other pioneers tried to reach California along the Thirty-fifth parallel, a route surveyed by Lieutenant Beale but presenting terrific hardships; on the sides of mountains, at times, they had to let down their wagons by ropes, and again they almost died Of thirst. The Mojave Indians, too, set upon them and did not desist until seventeen Indians had been killed and nine whites were slain or wounded, Rose himself not escaping injury.  With <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Apparently, Temple really inaugurated his new theater with the coming to Los Angeles in November of that year of "the Great Star Company of Stark &amp; Ryer," as well as with the announcement made at the time by their management: "This is the first advent of a theatrical company here."  Stark &amp; Ryer were in Los Angeles for a week or two; and though I should not vouch for them as stars, the little hall was crowded each night, and almost to suffocation.  There were no fire ordinances then as to filling even the aisles and the windowsills, nor am I sure that the conventional fire-pail, more often empty than filled with water, stood anywhere about; but just as many tickets were sold, regardless of the seating capacity.  Tragedy gave way, alternately, to comedy, one of the evenings being devoted to <HI REND="italics">The Honeymoon</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Prisoners, especially Indians, were employed on public works. As late as November, 1860, the Water Overseer was empowered to take out any Indians who might be in the calaboose, and to use them for repairing the highways and bridges.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About 1860, Nathan Jacoby came to Los Angeles, on my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the end of 1860, Solomon Lazard returned to France, to visit his mother; but no sooner had he arrived at his old home and registered, according to law, with the police, than he was arrested, charged with having left his fatherland at the age of seventeen, without having performed military duty. In spite of his American citizenship, he was tried by court-martial and sentenced to a short imprisonment; but through the intervention of the United States Minister, Charles J. Faulkner--the author of the Fugitive Slave Law of 1850--and the clemency of the Emperor Napoleon III., he was finally released.  He had to furnish a substitute, however, or pay a fine of fifteen hundred francs; and he paid the fine.  At length, notwithstanding his unpleasant experience, Lazard arrived in Los Angeles about the middle of March, 1861.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tired of the wretched sidewalks, John Temple, in December, 1860, set to work to introduce an improvement in front of his Main Street block, an experiment that was watched with interest.  Bricks were covered with a thick coating of asphalt brought from La Brea Ranch, which was smoothed while still warm and then sprinkled with sand; the combination promising great durability.  In the summer season, however, the coating became soft and gluey, and was not comfortable to walk upon.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have already spoken of the effect of heat and age on foodstuffs such as eggs and butter, when brought over the hot desert between San Bernardino and Los Angeles.  This disadvantage continued for years; nor was the succeeding plan of bringing provisions from San Francisco and the North by way of the ocean without its obstacles.  A. Ulyard, the baker, realized the situation, and in December advertised "fresh <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Previous to the days of warehouses, and much before the advent of railroads, the public hay-scale was an institution, having been constructed by Francis Mellus in the dim past. Exposed to the elements, it stood alone out in the center of Los Angeles Street, somewhat south of Aliso; and in the lawless times of the young town was a silent witness to the numerous crimes perpetrated in the adjacent Calle de Los Negros.  Onto its rough platform the neighboring farmers drove their heavy loads, often waiting an hour or two for the arrival of the owner, who alone had the key to its mysterious -mechanism.  Speaking of this lack of a warehouse brings to my mind the pioneer of 1850, Edouard Naud, who first attracted attention as a clever pastryman with a little shop on Commercial Street where he made a specialty of lady-fingers--selling them at fifty cents a dozen.  Engaging in the wool industry, he later become interested in wool and this led him in 1878 to erect Naud's warehouse on Alameda Street, at present known as the Union Warehouse.<ANCHOR ID="n19-21">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: Naud died in 1881.  His son, Edward, born in Los Angeles, is famous as an amateur <HI REND="italics">chef</HI>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-21">Destroyed by fire On September 22d, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>In May, as elsewhere stated, Henry Mellus was elected Mayor of Los Angeles; and on the twenty-sixth of December he died-the first to yield that office to the inexorable demands of Death.  The news of his demise called forth unfeigned expressions of regret; for Mellus was not only a man of marked ability, but he was of genial temperament and the soul of honor.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX<LB>THE RUMBLINGS OF WAR <LB>1861</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>THE year 1861 dawned dark and foreboding.  On the twentieth of the preceding December, South Carolina h ad seceded, and along the Pacific, as elsewhere, men were anxiously wondering what would happen next.  Threats and counter-threats clearly indicated the disturbed state of the public mind; and when, near Charleston Harbor, a hostile shot was fired at the <HI REND="italics">Star of the West</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Aside, however, from these disturbing events so much affecting commercial life, the year, sandwiched between two wet seasons, was in general a prosperous one.  There were evil effects of the heavy rains, and business in the spring was rather dull; but cattlemen, upon whose success so many other people depended, took advantage of the favoring conditions and profited accordingly.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During the period of the flood in 1859-60, the river, as we have seen, was impassable, and for months there was so much water in the bed, ordinarily dry, that foot-passage was interrupted.  In January,  1861,  therefore,  the  Common Council, under the influence of one of its members, E. Moulton, whose dairy was in East Los Angeles, provided a flimsy footbridge in his neighborhood.  If my memory serves me, construction was delayed, and so the bridge escaped the next winter's flood, though it went down years later.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On January 9th, the schooner <HI REND="italics">Lewis Perry</HI>
023.sgm: arrived at anchorage, to be towed across the bar and to the wharf by the little steamer<ANCHOR ID="n20-22">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Comet</HI>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-22">A term locally applied to tugs.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>We expect to see coasting steamers make their regular trips to New Town, discharging freight and loading passengers on the wharf, safe from the dangers of rough weather, instead of lying off at sea, subjecting life and property to the perils of southeast gales and the breakers.  The <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm: even, in the opinion of experienced persons, might easily enter the channel on the easterly side of Dead Man's Island, and thence find a safe passage in the Creek.  <HI REND="italics">It will yet happen!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>John M. Griffith came to Los Angeles in 1861, having four years previously married a sister of John J. Tomlinson.  With the latter he formed a partnership in the passenger and freight-carrying business, their firm competing with Banning &amp; Company until 1868, when Tomlinson died.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This same year, at the age of about eighteen, Eugene Meyer arrived.  He first clerked for Solomon Lazard, in the retail dry-goods business; and in 1867 he was admitted into partnership. On November 20th of that year Meyer married Miss Harriet, the youngest daughter of Joseph Newmark--who officiated.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Felix Bachman, who came in 1853, was at various times in partnership with Philip Sichel (after whom Sichel Street is named, and Councilman in 1862), Samuel Laubheim and Ben Schloss, the firm being known as Bachman &amp; Company; and on Los Angeles Street near Commercial they carried on the largest business in town.  Bachman secured much Salt Lake trade and in 1861 opposed high freight rates; but although well off when he left here, he died a poor man in San Francisco, at the age of nearly one hundred years.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1861, Adolph Junge arrived and established a drug-store <illus entity="a023-0076" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Winfield Scott Hancock</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0077" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Albert Sidney Johnston</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0078" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Los Angeles County in 1854</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0079" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The Morris Adobe, once Fr&eacute;mont's Headquarters</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The absence in general of shade trees was so noticeable that when John Temple, on January 31st, planted a row facing Temple Building there was the usual town gossip.  Charley Ducommon followed Temple's example. Previously, there had been several wide-spreading trees in front of the Bella Union hotel, and it came to pass within the next five years that many pepper-trees adorned the streets.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1861, the Post Office was removed from North Spring Street to a frame building on Main Street, opposite Commercial.  About the same time when, owing to floods, no mail arrived for three or four weeks and someone facetiously hung out a sign announcing the office "To Let!" the Washington postal authorities began issuing stamped envelopes, of the values of twelve and twenty-four cents, for those business men of Los Angeles and the Pacific Coast who were likely to use the recently-developed Pony Express.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Matthew Keller, or Don Mateo, as he was called, who died in 1881, was a quaint personality of real ability, who had a shop on the northwest corner of Los Angeles and Commercial streets, and owned the adjoining store in which P. Beaudry had been in business.  His operations were original and his advertising <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:unique, as will be seen from his announcement in the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>M: KELLER, TO HIS CUSTOMERS</P>
023.sgm:<P>You are hereby notified that the time has at last arrived when you must pay up, without further delay, or I shall be obliged to invoke the aid of the law and the lawyers.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Your most ob't servant,</P>
023.sgm:<P>M. KELLER.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Which warning was followed, in the next issue, by this:</P>
023.sgm:<P>M. KELLER, TO HIS CUSTOMERS</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Right of Secession Admitted!</P>
023.sgm:<P>You are hereby notified that the time has arrived when you must pay up, without further delay, or I shall be obliged to invoke the aid of the law and the lawyers.</P>
023.sgm:<P>After such settlement, slow-payers are requested to secede.</P>
023.sgm:<P>M. KELLER.</P>
023.sgm:<P>(to be augmented next week)</P>
023.sgm:<P>This later advertisement, with the line in parenthesis, continued to be printed, week after week, without change, <HI REND="italics">for at least twelve months</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The following year, Keller, in flaring headlines, offered for sale the front of his Los Angeles vineyard, facing on Aliso Street, in building lots of twenty by one hundred feet, saying, in his prospectus:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Great improvements are on the <HI REND="italics">tapis</HI>
023.sgm:<P>M. KELLER.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Nathaniel Pryor--sometimes known as Don Miguel N. Pryor or Prior--is the pioneer referred to by Keller.  At the age of thirty, it is said, in 1828, he came here, and fifteen or twenty years later, about the time that he was a <HI REND="italics">Regidor</HI>
023.sgm:<P>During the administration of Padre Blas Raho, a genial, broad-minded Italian, several attempts were made, beginning with 1857 or 1858, to improve the old church at the Plaza; and in 1861, the historic edifice, so long unchanged, was practically rebuilt.  The front adobe wall, which had become damaged by rains, was taken down and reconstructed of brick; some alterations were made in the tower; and the interesting old tiled roof was replaced--to the intense regret of later and more appreciative generations--with modern, less durable shingles. A fence was provided, and trees, bushes and plants were set out. The church was also frescoed, inside and out, by Henri Penelon, the French pioneer artist and photographer, who painted upon the wall the following inscription:  <HI REND="italics">Los Fieles de Esta Parroquia &aacute; la Reina de los Angeles, 1861</HI>
023.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n20-23">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-23">"The Faithful of this Parish, to the Queen of the Angels."</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Early in March, Sanchez Street was opened by the Common Council.  It was opposite the northern section of Arcadia <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles Mounted Rifles, part of the five thousand militia wanted by California, was organized on March 6th at a meeting in the Court House presided over by George W. Gift, with M. J. Newmark, who became an officer in the company, as Secretary.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Late in March, John Fr&ouml;hling rented from the City Fathers a space under the Temple Market building for a wine cellar; and in December, 1860, at the close of his vintage, when he had conducted a hearty harvest-home celebration, he filled the vault with pipes and other casks containing twenty thousand or more gallons of native wines.  In a corner, a bar was speedily built; and by many Angele&ntilde;os that day not associated with at least one pilgrimage to Fr&ouml;hling's cool and rather obscure recesses was considered incomplete.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Few who witnessed the momentous events of 1861 will forget the fever-heat of the nation.  The startling news of the attack on Fort Sumter took twelve days by Pony Express to reach the Coast, the overland telegraph not being completed until six months later; but when, on the twenty-fourth of April, the last messenger in the relay of riders dashed into San Francisco with the story, an excited population was soon seething about the streets.  San Francisco instantly flashed the details south, awakening here much the same mingled feelings of elation and sorrow.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When the war thus broke out, Albert Sidney Johnston, a fellow-townsman who had married a sister of Dr. J. S. Griffin, and who, in 1857, had successfully placed Utah under Federal control, resigned from his command as head of the Department of the Pacific--General Edwin V. Sumner succeeding him--and, being a Southerner, left for the South, by way of Warner's Ranch and the Overland Route, with about a hundred companions, most of whom were intercepted at Fort Yuma through the orders of Captain W. S. Hancock.  According to Senator Cornelius Cole, Sumner arrived at Johnston's headquarters in San Francisco after dark; and in spite of Johnston's protest, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:insisted on assuming command at once.  Johnston took up arms for the Confederacy, and was made a Brigadier-General; but at Shiloh he was killed, the news of his death causing here the sincerest regret.  I shall speak of the loss of one of General Johnston's sons in the disaster to the <HI REND="italics">Ada Hancock</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Others of our more enthusiastic Southerners, such as Cameron E. Thom and J. Lancaster Brent, also joined the Rebellion and proceeded to the seat of war.  Thom, who has since attained much distinction, returned to Los Angeles, where he is still living<ANCHOR ID="n20-24">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-24">Captain Thom died on February 2d, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Among the very few who went to the front on the Union side and returned here was Charles Meyrs Jenkins, already referred to as a city <HI REND="italics">Zanjero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Not everyone possibly even among those familiar with the building of the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad, knows that an effort was made, as far back as 1861, to finance a railroad here.  About the middle of February in that year, Murray Morrison and Abel Stearns, Assemblymen, learned of the willingness of Eastern capitalists to build such a road within eighteen months, providing the County would subscribe one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>For almost a decade after I came here, St. Valentine's Day was seldom observed in Los Angeles; but about 1861 or 1862, the annual exchange of decorated cards, with their sentimental verses, came to be somewhat general.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Phineas Banning was a staunch Republican and an ardent Abolitionist; and it was not extraordinary that on May 25th, at a grand Union demonstration in Los Angeles, he should have been selected to present to the Union Club, in his characteristically vigorous manner, an American flag made for the occasion.  Columbus Sims, as President, accepted the emblem, after which there was a procession, led by the First Dragoons band, many participants being on horseback.  In those days such a procession had done its duty when it tramped along Main Street and around the Plaza and back, by way of Spring Street, as far as First; and everyone was in the right frame of mind to hear and enjoy the patriotic speeches made by Captain Winfield Scott Hancock, General Ezra Drown and Major James Henry Carleton, while in the distance was fired a salute of thirty-four guns--one for each State in the Union.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Senator William McKendree Gwin was another man of prominence.  Following his search for gold with the Forty-niners--due, he used to say, to advice from John C. Calhoun, who, probably taking his cue from Dana's prophecy in <HI REND="italics">Two Years Before the Mast</HI>
023.sgm:, one day put his finger on the map and predicted that, should the bay now called San Francisco ever be possessed by Americans, a city rivaling New York would spring up on its shores-Gwin came to Los Angeles occasionally, and never forgot to visit me at my home.   In 1861, he was arrested by the Federal Government for his known sympathy with the South, and was kept a prisoner for a couple of years; after which he went to France and there planned to carry through, under force of arms, the colonization of Sonora, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Oscar Macy, son of Dr. Obed Macy, having as a newspaper man enthusiastically advocated the election of Fr&eacute;mont in 1856, was appointed, on Lincoln's inauguration, to the Collectorship of Customs at San Pedro; a post which he continued to fill even after the office had been reduced to an inspectorship, later resigning in favor of George C. Alexander. This recalls another appointment by Lincoln--that of Major Ant&oacute;nio Maria Pico, a nephew of Pio Pico, to the Receivership of Public Moneys at Los Angeles.  Pico lived at San Jos&eacute;; and finding that his new duties exiled him from his family, he soon resigned the office.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Old-time barbers, as the reader may be aware, were often surgeons, and the arrival in Commercial Street, in the early sixties, of J. A. Meyer, "late of San Francisco," was announced in part as follows:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gentlemen will be waited on and have Shaving, Hair-Dressing, and Shampooing prepared in the most luxurious manner, and in the finest style of the art; while Cupping, Bleeding, and Teeth-Extracting will also be attended to!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fort Tej&oacute;n had been pretty well broken up by June, when a good deal of the army property was moved to Los Angeles. Along with Uncle Sam's bag and baggage, came thirty or more of the camels previously mentioned, including half a dozen "young uns."  For some months they were corralled uncomfortably near the genial Quartermaster's Main Street office; but in October they were removed to a yard fixed up for them on D. Anderson's premises, opposite the Second Street schoolhouse.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Starting with the cook brought to Los Angeles by Joseph Newmark, the Chinese population in 1861 had increased to twenty-one men and eight women--a few of them cooks and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>For years, until wharves made possible for thousands the pleasures of rod and reel, clams, since used for bait, were almost a drug on the market, being hawked about the streets in 1861 at a dollar a bucket-a price not very remunerative considering that they came from as far north as San Buenaventura.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI<LB>HANCOCK--LADY FRANKLIN--THE DELUGE<LB>1861</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>WHEN the Civil War began, California and the neighboring territory showed such pronounced Southern sympathies that the National Government kept both under close surveillance, for a time stationing Major, afterward General James Henry Carleton--in 1862 sent across the Colorado River when the Government drove out the Texans--with a force at Camp Latham, near Ballona, and dispatching another force to Drum Barracks, near Wilmington.  The Government also established a thorough system of espionage over the entire Southwest.  In Los Angeles and vicinity, many people, some of whom I mention elsewhere, were arrested; among them being Henry Schaeffer who was taken to Wilmington Barracks but through influential friends was released after a few days.  On account of the known political views of their proprietors, some of the hotels also were placed under watch for a while; but beyond the wrath of the innkeepers at the sentinels pacing up and down their verandas, nothing more serious transpired.  Men on both sides grew hot-headed and abused one another roundly, but few bones were broken and little blood was shed.  A policy of leniency was adopted by the authorities, and sooner or later persons arrested for political offenses were discharged.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The ominous tidings from beyond the Colorado, and their effect, presaging somewhat the great internecine conflict, recalls an unpublished anecdote of Winfield Scott Hancock, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Captain Hancock's loyalty to the Stars and Stripes has never for a moment been doubted, and we hope he may be advanced in rank and honors, and live to a green old age, to see the glorious banner of our country yet waving in peaceful glory over a united, prosperous, and happy people.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Few of us, however, who heard Hancock speak on that occasion, dreamed to what high position he would eventually attain.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Soon after this episode, that is, in the early part of August, 1861, Hancock left for the front, in company with his wife; and taking with him his military band, he departed from San Pedro on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:.  Some of my readers may know that Mrs. Hancock-after whom the ill-fated <HI REND="italics">Ada Hancock</HI>
023.sgm: was named-was a Southern woman, and though very devoted to her husband, had certain natural sympathies for the South; but none, I dare say, will have heard how she perpetrated an amusing joke upon him on their way north.  When once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:out upon the briny deep, she induced the musicians to play <HI REND="italics">Dixie</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Having in mind the sojourn in Los Angeles for years of these representative Americans, the following editorial from the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>While resident here, Captain Hancock took great interest in our citizens, the development of our resources, and the welfare of this section of the country; and as a public-spirited, enterprising gentleman, he will be missed from among us, and his most estimable lady will long live in the hearts of her many friends.  We desire their prosperity, happiness, and long life, wherever their lot may be cast.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The establishing of Drum Barracks and Camp Drum at Wilmington was a great contribution to the making of that town, for the Government not only spent over a million dollars in buildings and works there, and constantly drew on the town for at least part of its supplies, but provisions of all kinds were sent through Wilmington to troops in Southern California, Utah, Yuma, Tucson and vicinity, and New Mexico.</P>
023.sgm:<P>P. H., popularly known as Major Downing, was employed by Banning for some time during the War to take charge of the great wagon-trains of Government supplies sent inland; and later he opened a general merchandise store in Wilmington, after which he transacted a large volume of business with H. Newmark &amp; Company.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At the breaking out of the War, the Southern Overland Mail Route was discontinued and a contract was made with Butterfield <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>J. De Barth Shorb came to Los Angeles at the commencement of the War, as Assistant Superintendent of the Philadelphia &amp; California Oil Company; and in 1867 he bought the Temescal grant and began to mine upon the property.  The same year he married a daughter of B. D. Wilson, establishing a relationship which brought him a partnership in the San Gabriel Wine Company, of which he eventually became manager. His position in this community, until he died in 1895, was important, the little town of Shorb testifying to one of his activities.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Not only were the followers of the indefatigable <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
023.sgm:<P>How important was the office of the <HI REND="italics">Zanjero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>By 1861, there were serious doubts as to the future of cattle-raising in Southern California, but Banning &amp; Company came forward proposing to slaughter at New San Pedro and contracted with John Temple, John Rains and others, to do <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In September, Columbus Sims, the popular attorney of unique personality who from 1856 to 1860 had been Clerk of the United States District Court, was appointed Lieutenant Colonel in the United States Army and placed in charge of Camp Alert, at the Pioneer Race Course, San Francisco, where twelve companies were soon assembled; and a month or two later he was made Colonel in the Second Cavalry.  Late in December of that year, however, he had an altercation with D. D. Colton, in San Francisco, when blows were exchanged and Sims drew "a deadly weapon."  For this, the doughty Colonel was arrested and held to await the action of the Grand Jury; but I am under the impression that nothing very serious befell the belligerent Sims as a result.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On September 11th, H. Stassforth, after having bought out A. W. Schulze, announced a change in the control of the United States Hotel, inviting the public, at the same time, to a "free lunch," at half-past four o'clock the following Sunday. Stassforth was an odd, but interesting character, and stated in his advertisement that guests were at liberty, when they had partaken of the collation, to judge if he could "keep a hotel." Whether successful or otherwise, Stassforth did not long continue in control, for in November, 1862, he disposed of the business to Webber &amp; Haas, who in turn sold it to Louis Mesmer.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the fall, an atrocious murder took place here, proving but the first in a series of vile deeds for which, eventually, the culprit paid with his own life at the hands of an infuriated populace.  On Sunday evening, September 30th, some Frenchmen were assembled to sit up with the body of one of their recently deceased countrymen; and at about eleven o'clock a quarrel arose between two of the watchers, A. M. G., or Michel Lachenais--a man once of good repute, who had cast some slurs at the French Benevolent Society--and Henry Delaval, a respected employee of the Aliso Mills who spiritedly defended the organization.  Lachenais drew a weapon, approached Delaval and tried to shoot him; but the pistol missed fire.  Thereupon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>About October, Remi Nadeau, a Canadian, after whom Nadeau Street is named and father of George A. Nadeau, came across the Plains to Los Angeles, having spent the previous winter, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the front part of a little building on Main Street, between Second and Third, Lorenzo Leck, whom I have already mentioned, conducted a grocery, living with his family in the rear. He was a plain, unassuming, honest Dane of the old school, who attended scrupulously to his business and devoted his Sundays and holidays to modest amusements.  On such days, he would put his wife, Caroline, and their children on a little wagon that he owned and take them to his vineyard on the outskirts of the town; and there he would enjoy with them those rural pastimes to which he had been accustomed in the Fatherland, and which to many early-comers here were a source of rest and delight.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On the afternoon of Saturday, October 17th, Francisco Cota, a Mexican boy fifteen years of age, entered Leck's store while he was out, and, taking advantage of the fact that Frau Leck was alone, whipped out a knife, stabbed her to death, stole what cash was in sight and then escaped to a vineyard, where he hid himself.  John W. Henderson, the son of A. J. Henderson, a Deputy Sheriff here still living in Los Angeles, came in soon after and finding Mrs. Leck horribly disfigured, he gave the alarm.  Neighbors and friends at once started in pursuit and caught Cota; and having tied a rope around the murderer's neck during the excitement they dragged him down to Alameda Street, where I witnessed the uproar.  As they proceeded by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A short time after this melancholy event, I was driving with my wife to the Cerritos <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: and, missing our road, we stopped at a Mexican home to inquire the way.  The woman who answered our summons proved to be one who knew, and was known by all Los Angeles merchants on account of her frequent excursions to town; she was, in fact, the mother of the Mexican boy who had been mobbed and hung for the murder of poor Leck's wife!  The sight of <HI REND="italics">Gringos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>California being so far removed from the seat of war did not awake to its full significance until the credit of the Government began to decline.  Four weeks were required, it is well to remember, to complete the trip from New York to San Francisco <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm:<P>It must not be forgotten, though, that we then had a little relief from San Francisco, whose newspapers, containing some telegraphic despatches, arrived in town perhaps three to four days after their publication.  I may add, in fact, that it was not until about the beginning of the eighties that Los Angeles dailies could afford the luxury of regular direct telegrams.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In other respects as well, editing a local newspaper during the War was apt to entail financial loss.  The Los Angeles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<HI REND="italics">News</HI>
023.sgm:, for instance, was outspoken for the Union and so escaped the temporary eclipse suffered by the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Probably one of the most interesting visits to Los Angeles ever made by a well-known personage was the sudden call with which Lady Franklin, the wife of the eminent, lost Arctic explorer, honored our little town far back in 1861.  The distinguished lady, accompanied by Mrs. Cracroft, her niece, Commodore and Madame Watkins and Collector and Mrs. Rankin, arrived at San Pedro on the <HI REND="italics">Golden State</HI>
023.sgm: during the first week in November and was driven, with her companions, to the Bella Union hotel, from which she made such short excursions about the city as were then possible; and as sympathy for her in her sorrow, and admiration for her long years of plucky though vain search for her husband were still general, every courtesy possible was afforded her.  During Lady Franklin's stay Benjamin D. Wilson arranged a delightful garden party at his hospitable mansion at Lake Vineyard in her ladyship's honor, and Phineas Banning also entertained her with a reception and collation at his San Pedro home; and these receptions and collations were as enjoyable as they were notable. After a day or two, Lady Franklin and her party left on the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:<P>For many years funerals were attended by men on horseback and by women on foot, as hacks were unknown in early days; and while the good citizens were doubtless then conducted to their last resting-place in a manner just as satisfactory to themselves as are their descendants who are buried according to present-day customs, those who followed in the train were very seriously inconvenienced by the melancholy, dusty processions to the old and now-forgotten burial-grounds; for in those days <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of funerals, a strange sight was witnessed in our streets about the end of November, 1861, attending the burial of a child.  The father and mother, both native Californians, were seated in a wagon, in which was also placed the strikingly plain little coffin or box containing the dead.  Beside the wagon walked an old man, playing a fiddle.  Two or three persons followed in the deep mud; the whole forming a weird picture, said to be the relic of an almost obsolete back-woods custom.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Banning &amp; Hinchman's <HI REND="italics">Comet</HI>
023.sgm: proving insufficient, the <HI REND="italics">Gondolier</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Two years previous to the completion of the telegraph from San Francisco to Los Angeles-that is, in 1858--the first continental telegraph was undertaken; and by October, 1861, Governor Downey of California sent a congratulatory message to President Lincoln. On November 7th, the line was open to the public.  Several months before, all the companies in the State had consolidated into the California State Telegraph Company. Banning &amp; Hinchman having succeeded, for a short season, Phineas Banning, the sub-contractor for the building of the first telegraph, they made an effort, following the establishment of communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific, to secure a line to New San Pedro; and at the end of October, 1861, the first telegraph pole in the long row from Los Angeles to the harbor was formally set.  About the middle of November, this line was completed; and though it was widely proclaimed as "working like a charm," the apparatus soon got out of order and by the following January there were many complaints that both poles and wire had fallen to the ground, blocking the thoroughfares and entangling animals in such a way as to become a nuisance.  Indeed, there was soon a public demand either to repair the telegraph or to remove it altogether and throw the equipment away.  Soon after the first of February, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On November 15th, the first number of <HI REND="italics">El Amigo del Pueblo</HI>
023.sgm:<P>E. Gonzales &amp; Company; but native support being withheld, "The Friend of the People" starved to death in the following May.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whaling, like shark-hunting, continued brisk in 1861 and 1862, and many vessels were fitted out at San Pedro; Los Angeles merchants selling them most of their supplies.  The sea-monsters usually moved up the coast about the first of the year, the males keeping in toward the shore going up, and the females hugging the coast, coming down; and small boats such as Captain W. Clark's <HI REND="italics">Ocean</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The bitter fight between Abolitionists and Southern sympathizers was immediately reflected in the public schools. Defenders of the Union worked for a formal oath of allegiance to the National Government, as a preliminary to granting teachers' certificates; while the Confederates, incensed at what they deemed a violation of personal rights, assailed the institutions.  The result was that attendance at the public schools gradually fell off until, in the winter of 1865-66, only about three hundred and fifty children of school age were being instructed by public teachers; another third of a thousand was in private schools, while some three hundred and sixty-nine were not on any roster.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The gloom naturally caused by the outbreak of war was sometimes penetrated by the brightness of social life, and among the happier occasions of the winter of 1861 was the marriage, on December 23d, in the presence of a large circle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The winter of 1861-62 recorded the greatest of all floods, especially in the North where, in December and January, something like thirty-five inches of rain was precipitated.  In Los Angeles County the rivers soon rose and overflowed the lowlands; but the rise was gradual, causing the loss of but few or no lives and permitting the stock to reach the neighboring hills in safety.  In Anaheim the water was four feet deep in the streets and people had to seek flight to the uplands or retreat to the roofs of their little houses.  Vineyards were sometimes half-ruined with the layers of deep sand; banks of streams were lined for miles with driftwood; and ranchers saw many a clod of their farms carried off and deposited to enrich their neighbors, miles away.  For a month it rained so steadily that the sun peeped out for scarcely an hour.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I witnessed this inundation in Los Angeles, where much damage was done to business buildings, especially to Mellus's Row, and saw merchants in water up to their waists, trying to save their goods.  The wall of the room occupied by Sam Meyer fell first, whereupon Hellman &amp; Brother became intensely interested in the removal of their stock, while poor Sam, knee-deep in water, sadly contemplated his losses.  Before the Hellmans had made much headway, they observed a tendency on the part of their walls to crumble, and their exit was neither graceful nor delayed.  After that the store occupied by Meyer &amp; Breslauer caved in, smashing show cases and shelves, and ruining a large amount of merchandise.  The ludicrous picture of this rush for "safety first " is not a fit reflection of the feelings of those pioneers who saw the results of years of labor obliterated in a moment.  Friends and neighbors lent assistance to the unfortunate, and helped to save what they could.  After this flood, Hellman &amp; Brother and Sam Meyer removed to the Arcadia Block, while Meyer &amp; Breslauer secured accommodations north of the Plaza Church.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII<LB>DROUGHTS--THE <HI REND="italics">ADA HANCOCK</HI>
023.sgm: DISASTER<LB>1862-1863</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>ON the first of January, 1862, after an experience of about five years, I retired from the selling of clothing, which was never congenial to me; and as I had been buying hides and wool on a small scale since the middle of the fifties, I forthwith devoted myself to the commission business. Frenchmen from the Basque country, among whom were Miguel Leonis, Gaston Oxarart, Domingo Amestoy and Domingo Bastanchury, had commenced to appear here in 1858 and to raise sheep; so that in 1859 large flocks were brought into Southern California, the sheep commanding a price of three dollars and a half per head.  My own operations, exceedingly small in the beginning, increased in importance, and by 1862 I was fairly equipped for this venture.  Corn, barley and wheat were also then being raised, and I busied myself with these commodities as well.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Most of the early sheepmen prospered and in time bought large tracts of land for their flocks, and with all of them I had dealings of more or less importance.  Amestoy's career is worthy of particular mention as exemplifying the three cardinal virtues of business: honesty, application and frugality.  He and his wife took in washing; and while the husband went from house to house, leading a horse with a large basket strapped to either side, to collect and deliver the clothes, the wife toiled at the tub,  In the end, what they together had <illus entity="a023-0080" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Eugene Meyer</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0081" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Jacob A. Moerenhout</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0082" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Frank lecouvreur</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0083" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Thomas D. Mott</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0084" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Leonard J. Rose</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0085" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">H. K. S. O'Melveny</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0086" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Remi Nadeau</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0087" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">John M. Griffith</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Having regularly established a commission business, I brought consignments of varied merchandise from San Francisco on the semi-monthly steamer <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I do not recall any important changes in 1862, the declining months of which saw the beginning of the two years' devastating drought.  The Civil War was in progress, but we were so far from the scene of strife that we were not materially affected.  Sympathy was very general here for the Confederate cause, and the Government therefore retained in Wilmington both troops and clerks who were paid in a badly-depreciated currency, which they were obliged to discount at exorbitant rates, to get money at all; while other employees had to accept vouchers which were subject to a still greater discount.  Notwithstanding these difficulties, however, pay-day increased the resources of the pueblo considerably.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hellman &amp; Brother, a partnership consisting of I. M. and Samuel Hellman, dissolved, on January 2d, I. M. continuing in the dry goods business while Sam took the books and stationery.  Another brother and associate, H. M. Hellman, a couple of years before had returned to Europe, where he died. If my memory is accurate, I. W. remained with I. M. Hellman until the former, in 1865, bought out A. Portugal.  Samuel A. Widney, who later had a curio store, was for a while with Sam Hellman in a partnership known as Hellman &amp; Widney.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>312</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On January 17th, Don Louis Vignes passed away in Los Angeles, at the age of ninety-one years.</P>
023.sgm:<P>January also witnessed one of those typical scenes, in the fitting out of a mule- and wagon-train, never likely to be seen in Los Angeles again.  Two hundred wagons and twelve hundred mules, mostly brought from San Francisco on steamers, were assembled for a trip across the desert to convey Government stores.</P>
023.sgm:<P>M. J. Newmark became a partner, on February 1st, in the firm of Howard, Butterworth &amp; Newmark, Federal and State Attorneys with offices in the Temple Building, Los Angeles, and Armory Hall, San Francisco; and it was considered at the time a rapid advance for a man of but twenty-three years of age.  The Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The intimate relations characteristic of a small community such as ours, and the much more general effect then than nowadays of any tragical occurrence have already been described. Deep sympathy was therefore awakened, early in February, on the arrival of the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:<P>But slight attention was paid to the report, brought in by horsemen from San Bernardino on February 4th, that an earthquake had occurred there in the morning, until Captain Tom Seeley returned with the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I have alluded to the dependence of Los Angeles on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In October, 1860, as I have intimated, Phineas Banning took A. F. Hinchman into partnership, the firm being known as Banning &amp; Hinchman, and they seemed to prosper; but on February 12th, 1862, the public was surprised at the announcement of the firm's dissolution.  Banning continued as proprietor, and Hinchman became Banning's Los Angeles agent.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Although cattle-raising was the mainstay of Southern California for many years, and gold-mining never played a very important part here, Wells Fargo &amp; Co., during the spring, frequently shipped thousands of dollars' worth of gold at a time, gathered from Santa Anita, San Gabriel and San Fernando <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I have already pointed to the clever foresight shown by Abel Stearns when he built the Arcadia Block and profited by the unhappy experience of others, with rain that flooded their property; but I have not stated that in elevating his new building considerably above the grade of the street, somewhat regardless of the rights of others, he caused the surplus water to run off into neighboring streets and buildings.  Following the great storm of 1861-62, the City sued Stearns for damages, but he won his case.  More than that, the overflow was a Godsend to him, for it induced a number of people to move from Mellus's Row to Arcadia Block at a time when the owner of vast ranches and some of the best town property was already feeling the pinch of the alternate dry and over-wet seasons.  The fact is, as I shall soon make clear, that before Stearns had seen the end of two or three successive dry seasons yet to come, he was temporarily bankrupt and embarrassed to the utmost.</P>
023.sgm:<P>By April, the walls and roof for the little Protestant Church <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>We have seen that the first Jewish services here were held soon after the arrival of Joseph Newmark in 1854; under the same disadvantageous conditions as had hampered the Protestant denominations, Mr. Newmark volunteered to officiate on the principal holidays until 1862, when the Reverend Abraham Wolf Edelman arrived.  Born at Warsaw in 1832, Rabbi Edelman came to America in 1851, immediately after he was married to Miss Hannah Pessah Cohn, and settled successively in New York, Paterson and Buffalo.  Coming to California in 1859, he resided in San Francisco until 1862, when he was chosen Rabbi of the orthodox Congregation B'nai B'rith of Los Angeles, and soon attained distinction as a Talmudic scholar and a preacher.  The first services under Rabbi Edelman were held in Stearns's, or Arcadia Hall; next, the Congregation worshipped in Leck's Hall on Main Street between Second and Third; and finally, through the courtesy of Judge Ygn&aacute;cio Sep&uacute;lveda, the court room was used.  In 1873 the Jews of Los Angeles erected their first synagogue, a brick building entered by a steep stairway leading to a platform, and located on the east side of Fort Street between Second and Third, on what is now the site of the Copp Building next to the City Hall.  In 1886, when local Jewry instituted a much more liberal ritual, Rabbi Edelman's convictions induced him to resign.  The purchase of a lot for a home on the corner of Sixth and Main streets proved a fortunate investment, later enabling him to enjoy a well-deserved comfort and to gratify his charitable inclinations.  It is a strange coincidence that Reverend Edelman's first marriage ceremony was that which blessed Samuel Prager; while the last occasion on which he performed the solemn rites for the dead--shortly before his own death in 1907--was for the same friend.  A. M. Edelman, the architect, and Dr. D. W. Edelman, both well-known here, are sons of the Rabbi.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As late in the season as April, hail and snow fell in and near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Because of political charges preferred against A. J. King, then Under Sheriff of the County, the latter, on April 10th, was arrested by Henry D. Barrows, United States Marshal, who had been appointed by President Lincoln, the year previous. Colonel Carleton, Commander of the Southern Military Division, however, soon liberated King.   On the last day of the year, the Under Sheriff married the estimable Miss Laura C. Evertsen.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Travelers to Europe have often suffered much annoyance through safe-conduct regulations, but seldom have Americans had their liberty thus restricted by their own authorities. Toward the middle of June, word was received in Los Angeles that, owing to the suspicion lest disloyalists were embarking for Aspinwall, all passengers for California <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Anticipating, by forty years or more, Luther Burbank's work, attention was directed, as early as 1862, to the possibility of eating the cactus and thus finding, in this half-despised plant of the desert, relief from both hunger and thirst.  Half a century later, in 1913, Los Angeles established the cactus candy industry through which the boiled pulp of the <HI REND="italics">bisnaga</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Ygn&aacute;cio Sep&uacute;lveda, declared by the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On January 18th, 1860, the first number of the <HI REND="italics">Semi-Weekly Southern News</HI>
023.sgm: appeared, containing advertisements in both English and Spanish.  It was issued by C. R. Conway and Alonzo Waite, who charged twenty-five cents a copy, or seven <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:dollars a year.  On October 8th, 1862, the title was changed to the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Semi-Weekly News</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1860, the Bella Union, as I have said, was under the management of John King, who came here in 1856; while in 1861 J. B. Winston &amp; Company, who were represented by Henry Reed, controlled the hotel.  In 1862 or 1863, John King and Henry Hammel were the managers.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have told of the purchase of the San Pasqual <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: by Dr. J. S. Griffin.  On December 11th, Dr. and Mrs. Griffin for five hundred dollars sold to B. D. Wilson and wife some six hundred and forty acres of that property; and a few hours afterward the Wilsons disposed of two hundred and sixty-two acres for one thousand dollars.  The purchaser was Mrs. Eliza G. Johnston, wife of General Albert Sidney Johnston. Mrs. Johnston at once built a neat residence on the tract and called it <HI REND="italics">Fair Oaks, after</HI>
023.sgm: the plantation in Virginia on which she had been born; and from this circumstance the name of the now well-known Fair Oaks Avenue in Pasadena is derived.  At the time of her purchase Mrs. Johnston had hoped to reside there permanently; but the tragic fate of her son in the <HI REND="italics">Ada Hancock</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Don Ygn&aacute;cio Coronel, father of Antonio Franco Coronel, and the early school patron to whom I have referred, died in Los Angeles on December 19th, aged seventy years.  He had come to California in 1834, and had long been eminent in political councils and social circles.  I recall him as a man of strong intellect and sterling character, kind-hearted and popular.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Another effort, without success, to use camels for transportation over the California and adjacent sands, was made in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Elsewhere I have indicated the condition of the public cemetery.  While an adobe wall enclosed the Roman Catholic burial-place, and a brick wall surrounded the Jewish resting place for the dead, nothing was done until 1863 to improve the Protestant cemetery, although desecration went so far that the little railing around the grave of poor Mrs. Leck, the grocer's wife who had been murdered, was torn down and burned. Finally, the matter cried to Heaven so audibly that in January Los Angeles Masons appropriated one hundred and fifty dollars, to be added to some five hundred dollars raised by popular subscription; and the Common Council having appointed a committee to supervise the work, William H. Perry put up the fence, making no charge for his services.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About the middle of January word was received in Los Angeles of the death, at Baltimore, of Colonel B. L. Beall, commander for years of the Fort Tejon garrison, and active in the Mojave and Kern River campaigns.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Death entered our home for the first time, when an infant daughter, less than a month old, died this year on February 14th.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In February, the editor of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
023.sgm: advised the experiment of growing cotton as an additional activity for the Colorado Indians, who were already cultivating corn, beans and melons. Whether this suggestion led William Workman into cotton culture, I do not know; at any rate, late in November of the same year F. F. F. Temple was exhibiting about town some well-matured bolls of cotton raised on Workman's ranch, and the next spring saw in El Monte a number of fields planted with cotton seed.  A year later, J. Moerenhout sent Los Angeles cotton to an exhibition in France, and received from across the water official assurance that the French judges regarded our product as quite equal to that grown in the Southern States. This gave a slight impetus to cotton-culture here and by January, 1865, a number of immigrants had arrived, looking for suitable land for the production of this staple.  They soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the month of March a lively agitation on behalf of a railroad began in the public press, and some bitter things were said against those who, for the sake of a little trade in horses or draying, were opposed to such a forward step; and under the leadership of E. J. C. Kewen and J. A. Watson, our Assemblymen at that session, the Legislature of 1863 passed an act authorizing the construction of the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad.  A public meeting was called to discuss the details and to further the project; but once more no railroad was built or even begun.  Strange as it seems, the idea of a railroad for Los Angeles County in 1863 was much too advanced for the times.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Billed as one who had "had the honor of appearing before King William IV. and all the principal crowned heads of Europe," Professor Courtier held forth with an exhibition of magic in the Temple Theatre; drawing the usual crowd of royalty-haters!</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1863, Santa Catalina was the scene of a gold-mining boom which soon came to naught, and through an odd enough occurrence.  About April, Martin M. Kimberly and Daniel E. Way staked out a claim or two, and some miners agreed on a code of laws for operations in what was to be known as the San Pedro Mining District, the boundaries of which were to include all the islands of the County.  Extensive claims, chiefly in Cherry and Joly valleys and on Mineral Hill, were recorded, and streets were laid out for a town to be known as Queen City; but just as the boom seemed likely to mature, the National Government stepped in and gave a quietus to the whole affair.  With or without foundation, reports had reached the Federal authorities that the movement was but a cloak to establish there well-fortified Confederate headquarters for the fitting out and repair of privateers intended to prey upon the coast-wise traders; and on February 5th, 1864, Captain B. R. West, commanding the Fourth California Infantry, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1863, feeling ill, I went to San Francisco to consult Dr. Toland, who assured me that there was nothing serious the matter with me; but wishing to satisfy myself more thoroughly, I resorted to the same means that I dare say many others have adopted-a medical examination for life insurance!  Bernhard Gattel, general agent of the Germania Life Insurance Company, at 315 Montgomery Street, wrote out my application; and on March 20th, a policy, numbered 1472, was issued, making me, since the fall of 1913, the oldest living policy-holder in the Southwest, and the twentieth oldest of the Germania's patrons in the world.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Californians, during that period of the War when the North was suffering a series of defeats, had little use for greenbacks. At one time, a dollar in currency was worth but thirty-five cents, though early in April it was accepted at sixty-five, late in August at ninety, and about the first of October at seventy-five cents; even interest-bearing gold notes being worth no more.  This condition of the money market saw little change until some time in the seventies; and throughout the War greenbacks were handled like any other commodity.  Frank Lecouvreur, in one of these periods, after getting judgment in a suit against Deputy Surveyor William Moore, for civil engineering services, and being paid some three hundred and eighty-three dollars in greenbacks, was disconcerted enough when he found that his currency would command but one hundred and eighty dollars in gold.  San Francisco merchants realized fortunes when a decline occurred, as they bought their merchandise in the East for greenbacks and sold it on the Coast for gold.  Los Angeles people, on the other hand, enjoyed no such benefit, as they brought their wares from San Francisco and were therefore obliged to liquidate in specie.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Among the worst tragedies in the early annals of Los Angeles, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:and by far the most dramatic, was the disaster on April 27th to the little steamer <HI REND="italics">Ada Hancock</HI>
023.sgm:.  While on a second trip, in the harbor of San Pedro, to transfer to the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm: the remainder of the passengers bound for the North, the vessel careened, admitting cold water to the engine-room and exploding the boiler with such force that the boat was demolished to the water's edge; fragments being found on an island even half to three-quarters of a mile away. Such was the intensity of the blast and the area of the devastation that, of the fifty-three or more passengers known to have been on board, twenty-six at least perished.  Fortunate indeed were those, including Phineas Banning, the owner, who survived with minor injuries, after being hurled many feet into the air.  Among the dead were Thomas W. Seeley, Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:; Joseph Bryant, Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Ada, Hancock</HI>
023.sgm:; Dr. H. R. Myles, the druggist, who had been in partnership, opposite the Bella Union, with Dr. J. C. Welch, an arrival of the early fifties who died in 1869; Thomas H. Workman, Banning's chief clerk; Albert Sidney Johnston, Jr.; William T. B. Sanford, once Postmaster;  Louis  Schlesinger  and  William  Ritchie, Wells Fargo's messenger, to whom was entrusted ten thousand dollars, which, as far as my memory goes, was lost.  Two Mormon missionaries, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
023.sgm: to the Sandwich Islands, were also killed.  Still another, who lost not only his treasure but his life, was Fred E. Kerlin of Fort Tejon: thirty thousand dollars which he carried with him, in greenbacks, disappeared as mysteriously as did the jewelry on the persons of others, and from these circumstances it was concluded that, even in the presence of Death, these bodies had been speedily robbed.  Mrs. Banning and her mother, Mrs. Sanford, and a daughter of B. D. Wilson were among the wounded; while Miss M. Hereford, Mrs. Wilson's sister and the <HI REND="italics">fianc&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: of Dr. Myles, was so severely injured that, after long suffering, she also died. Although the accident had happened about five o'clock in the afternoon, the awful news, casting a general and indescribable gloom, was not received in town until nearly eight o'clock; when Drs. Griffin and R. T. Hayes, together with an Army surgeon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In June the Government demanded a formal profession of loyalty from teachers, when Miss Mary Hoyt and Miss Eliza Madigan took the oath, but Mrs. Thomas Foster and William McKee refused to do so.  The incident provoked bitter criticism, and nothing being done to punish the recalcitrants, the Los Angeles Board of Education was charged with indifference as to the allegiance of its public servants.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During 1863 sectional feeling had grown so bitter on account of the War that no attempt was made to celebrate the Fourth of July in town.  At Fort Latham, however, on the Ballona Ranch, the soldiers observed the day with an appropriate demonstration.  By the end of July, troops had been sent from Drum Barracks to camp in the city-for the protection, so it was asserted, of Union men whose lives were said to be in danger, although some people claimed that this movement was rather for the purpose of intimidating certain leaders with known sympathy for the south.  This military display gave Northerners more backbone; and on the twenty-sixth of September a Union mass-meeting was held on Main Street in front of the Lafayette Hotel.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eldridge Edwards Hewitt, a Mexican War veteran who came to California in 1849 to search for gold, arrived in Los Angeles on July 31st and soon went on a wild-goose chase to the Weaver Diggings in Arizona, actually tramping with luggage over five hundred miles of the way!  After his return, he did odd jobs for his board, working in a stationery and toy store on Main Street, kept by the Goldwater Brothers, Joe and Mike, who had arrived in the early sixties; and later he entered the employ of Phineas Banning at Wilmington, with whom he remained until the completion of the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>It was in 1863 that Dr. J. S. Griffin, father of East Los Angeles, purchased two thousand acres in that section, at fifty cents an acre; but even at that price he was only induced to buy it by necessity.  Griffin wanted sheep-pasture, and had sought to secure some eight hundred acres of City land along the river; but as this would prevent other cattle or sheep from approaching the water to drink, the Common Council refused Griffin's bid on the smaller area of land and he was compelled to buy the <HI REND="italics">mesa</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A smallpox epidemic which had started in the previous fall spread through Los Angeles in 1863, and owing possibly to the bad sanitary and climatic conditions much vigilance and time were required to eradicate it; compulsory vaccination not having been introduced (as it finally was at the suggestion of Dr. Walter Lindley) until the summer of 1876.  The dread disease worked its ravages especially among the Mexicans and Indians, as many as a dozen of them dying in a single day; and these sufferers and their associates being under no quarantine, and even bathing <HI REND="italics">ad libitum</HI>
023.sgm: in the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Following the opening of the Owens River Mines this year, Los Angeles merchants soon established a considerable trade with that territory.  Banning inaugurated a system of wagon-trains, each larded by a detachment of soldiers.  The San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Largely because of political mistakes, including a manifestation of sympathy for the Southern Confederacy that drew against him Northern resentment and opposition, John G. Downey, the Democratic nominee for Governor, was defeated at the election in September; Frederick F. Low, a Republican, receiving a majority of over twenty thousand votes.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In October, a peddler named Brun was murdered near Chino.  Brun's brother, living at San Bernardino and subsequently a merchant of prominence there, offered two hundred dollars of his slender savings as a reward for the capture of the slayer; but nothing ever came of the search.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In November the stern necessities of war were at last driven home to Angele&ntilde;os when, on the ninth of that somber month, Don Juan Warner, Deputy Provost Marshal, appeared with his big blank books and began to superintend the registering of all able-bodied citizens suitable for military service.  To many, the inquisition was not very welcome and, had it not been for the Union soldiers encamped at Drum Barracks, this first step toward compulsory enrollment would undoubtedly have resulted in riotous disturbances.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have frequently named Tom Mott, but I may not have said that he was one of the representative local Democratic politicians of his day.  He possessed, indeed, such influence with all classes that he was not only elected Clerk of Los Angeles County in 1863, but succeeded himself in 1865,1867 and 1869, afterward sitting in the State Assembly; and in 1876, he was appointed a delegate to the National Convention that nominated Samuel J. Tilden for the Presidency.  His relations in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A most brutal murder took place on November 15th on the desert not far from Los Angeles, but few days passing before it was avenged.  A poor miner, named R. A. Hester, was fatally attacked by a border ruffian known as Boston Daimwood, while some confederates, including the criminals Chase, Ybarra and Olivas, stood by to prevent interference.  In a few hours officers and citizens were in the saddle in pursuit of the murderous band; for Daimwood had boasted that Hester was but the first of several of our citizens to whom he intended to pay his respects.  Daimwood and his three companions were captured and lodged in jail, and on the twenty-first of November two hundred or more armed Vigilantes forced the jail doors, seized the scoundrels and hung them to the <HI REND="italics">p&oacute;rtico</HI>
023.sgm: of the old City Hall on Spring Street.  Tom&aacute;s Sanchez, the Sheriff, talked of organizing a <HI REND="italics">posse comitatus</HI>
023.sgm:<P>An incident of value in the study of mob-psychology accentuated the day's events.  During the lynching, the clattering of horses' hoofs was heard, when the cry was raised that cavalry from Drum Barracks was rushing to rescue the prisoners; and in a twinkling those but a moment before most demonstrative were seen scurrying to cover in all directions. Instead, however, of Federal soldiers, the horsemen were the usual contingent of El Monte boys, coming to assist in the neck-tie party.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Besides the murderers lynched, there was an American boy named Wood of about eighteen years; and although he had committed no offense more vicious than the theft of some chickens, he paid the penalty with his life, it having been the verdict of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:the committee that while they were at it, the jail might as well be cleared of every malefactor.  A large empty case was secured as a platform on which the victim was to stand; and I shall never forget the spectacle of the youth, apparently oblivious of his impending doom, as he placed his hands upon the box and vaulted lightly to the top (just as he might have done at an innocent gymnastic contest), and his parting salutation, "I'm going to die a game <HI REND="italics">hen-chicken!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On that same day, a sixth prisoner barely escaped.  When the crowd was debating the lynchings, John P. Lee, a resident of El Monte who had been convicted of murder, was already under sentence of death; and the Vigilantes, having duly considered his case, decided that it would be just as well to per mit the law to take its course.  Some time later, J. Lancaster Brent, Lee's attorney, appealed the case and obtained for his client a new trial, finally clearing Lee of the charges against him, so that, in the end, he died a natural death.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I frequently saw Lee after this episode, and vividly recall an unpleasant interview years later.  The regularity of his visits had been interrupted, and when he reappeared to get some merchandise for a customer at El Monte, I asked him where he had been.  He explained that a dog had bitten a little girl, and that while she was suffering from hydrophobia she had in turn attacked him and so severely scratched his hands and face that, for a while, he could not show himself in public.  After that, whenever I saw Lee, I was aware of a lurking, if ridiculous, suspicion that the moment might have arrived for a new manifestation of the rabies.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of the Civil War and the fact that in Southern California there was less pronounced sentiment for the Union than in the Northern part of the State, I am reminded of a relief movement that emphasized the distinction.  By the middle of November San Francisco had sent over one hundred and thirty thousand dollars to the United States Sanitary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1863 interest in the old San Juan Capistrano Mission was revived with the reopening of the historic structure so badly damaged by the earthquake of 1812, and a considerable number of townspeople went out to the first services under the new roof.  When I first saw the Mission, near Don Juan Forster's home, there was in its open doors, windows and cut-stone and stucco ruins, its vines and wild flowers, much of the picturesque.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On November 18th, 1862, our little community was greatly stirred by the news that John Rains, one of Colonel Isaac Williams' sons-in-law and well known in Los Angeles, had been waylaid and killed on the highway near the Azusa <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: the night before.  It was claimed that one Ram&oacute;n Carrillo had hired the assassins to do the foul deed; and about the middle of February, 1863, a Mexican by the name of Manuel Cerradel was arrested by Thomas Trafford, the City Marshal, as a participant.  In time, he was tried and sentenced to ten years in San Quentin Prison.  On December 9th, Sheriff Tom&aacute;s Sanchez started to take the prisoner north, and at Wilmington boarded the little steamer <HI REND="italics">Cricket</HI>
023.sgm: to go out to the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the end of 1861, J. E. Pleasants, while overseeing one of Wolfskill's ranches, hit the trail of some horse thieves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII<LB>ASSASSINATION OF LINCOLN<LB>1864-1865</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>OF all years of adversity before, during or since the Civil the seemingly interminable year of 1864 was for Southern California the worst.   The varying moves in the great struggle, conducted mostly by Grant and Lee, Sherman and Farragut, buoyed now one, now the other side; but whichever way the tide of battle turned, business and financial conditions here altered but little and improved not a whit. The Southwest, as I have already pointed out, was more dependent for its prosperity on natural conditions, such as rain, than upon the victory of any army or fleet; and as this was the last of three successive seasons of annihilating drought, ranchman and merchant everywhere became downhearted. During the entire winter of 1862-63 no more than four inches of rain had fallen, and in 1864 not until March was there a shower, and even then the earth was scarcely moistened.  With a total assessment of something like two million dollars in the County, not a cent of taxes (at least in the city) was collected. Men were so miserably poor that confidence mutually weakened, and merchants refused to trust those who, as land and cattle-barons, but a short time before had been so influential and most of whom, in another and more favorable season or two, were again operators of affluence.  How great was the depreciation in values may be seen from the fact that notes given by Francis Temple, and bearing heavy interest, were peddled about at fifty cents on the dollar and even then found few purchasers.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>As a result of these very infrequent rains, grass started up only to wither away, a small district around Anaheim independent of the rainfall on account of its fine irrigation system, alone being green; and thither the lean and thirsty cattle came by thousands, rushing in their feverish state against the great willow-fence I have elsewhere described. This stampede became such a menace, in fact, that the Anaheimers were summoned to defend their homes and property, and finally they had to place a mounted guard outside of the willow enclosures.  Everywhere large numbers of horses and cattle died, as well as many sheep, the plains at length being strewn with carcasses and bleached bones.  The suffering of the poor animals beggars description; and so distressed with hunger were they that I saw famished cattle (during the summer of 1864 while on a visit to the springs at Paso de Robles) crowd around the hotel veranda for the purpose of devouring the discarded matting containers which had held Chinese rice.  I may also add that with the approach of summer the drought became worse and worse, contributing in no small degree to the spread of smallpox, then epidemic here.  Stearns lost forty or fifty thousand head of live stock, and was much the greatest sufferer in this respect; and as a result, he was compelled, about June, 1865, to mortgage Los Alamitos <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1864, two Los Angeles merchants, Louis Schlesinger and Hyman Tischler, owing to the recent drought foreclosed a mortgage on several thousand acres of land known as the Ricardo Vejar property, lying between Los Angeles and San Bernardino.  Shortly after this transaction, Schlesinger was killed while on his way to San Francisco, in the <HI REND="italics">Ada Hancock</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In January, Tischler invited me to accompany him on one of the numerous excursions which he made to his newly-acquired possession, but, though I was inclined to go, a business <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:engagement interfered and kept me in town.  Poor Edward Newman, another friend of Tischler's, took my place.  On the way to San Bernardino from the <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>James R. Toberman, after a trying experience with Texan Redskins, came to Los Angeles in 1864, President Lincoln having appointed him United States Revenue Assessor here, an office which he held for six years.  At the same time, as an exceptional privilege for a Government officer, Toberman was permitted to become agent for Wells Fargo &amp; Company.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Again the Fourth of July was not celebrated here, the two factions in the community still opposing each other with bitterness.  Hatred of the National Government had increased through an incident of the previous spring which stirred the town mightily.  On the eighth or ninth of May, a group stood discussing the Fort Pillow Massacre, when J. F. Bilderback indiscreetly expressed the wish that the Confederates would annihilate every negro taken with arms, and every white man, as well, who might be found in command of colored troops; or some such equally dangerous and foolish sentiment.  The indiscretion was reported to the Government authorities, and Bilderback was straightway arrested by a lieutenant of cavalry, though he was soon released.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Among the most rabid Democrats, particularly during the Civil War period, was Nigger Pete the barber.  One hot day in August, patriotic Biggs vociferously proclaimed his ardent attachment <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>For my part, I have good reason to remember the drought and crisis of 1864, not alone because times were miserably hard and prosperity seemed to have disappeared forever, or that the important revenue from Uncle Sam, although it relieved the situation, was never sufficient to go around, but also because of an unfortunate investment.  I bought and shipped many thousands of hides which owners had taken from the carcasses of their starved cattle, forwarding them to San Francisco by schooner or steamer, and thence to New York by sailing vessel. A large number had commenced to putrefy before they were removed, which fact escaped my attention; and on their arrival in the East, the decomposing skins had to be taken out to sea again and thrown overboard, so that the net results of this venture were disastrous.  However, we all met the difficulties of the situation as philosophically as we could.</P>
023.sgm:<P>There were no railroads in California until the late sixties and, consequently, there was no regular method of concentration, nor any systematic marketing of products; and this had a very bad economic effect on the whole State.  Prices were extremely high during her early history, and especially so in 1864.  Barley sold at three and a half cents per pound; potatoes went up to twelve and a half cents; and flour reached fifteen dollars per barrel, at wholesale.  Much flour in wooden barrels was then brought from New York by sailing vessels; and my brother imported a lot during a period of inflation, some of which he sold at thirteen dollars.  Isaac Friedlander, a San Francisco pioneer, who was not alone the tallest man in that city but was as well a giant operator in grain and its products, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Just before this transaction, I happened to be in San Francisco and noticing the advertisement of an approaching flour auction, I attended the sale.  This particular lot was packed in sacks which had been eaten into by rats and mice and had, in consequence, to be resacked, sweepings and all.  I bought one hundred barrels and shipped the flour to Los Angeles, and B. Dubordieu, the corpulent little French baker, considered himself fortunate in obtaining it at fifteen dollars per barrel.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of foodstuffs, I may note that red beans then commanded a price of twelve and a half cents per pound, until a sailing vessel from Chile unexpectedly landed a cargo in San Francisco and sent the price dropping to a cent and a quarter; when commission men, among them myself, suffered heavy losses.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1864, F. Bachman &amp; Company sold out.  Their retirement was ascribed in a measure to the series of bad years, but the influence of their wives was a powerful factor in inducing them to withdraw.  The firm had been compelled to accept large parcels of real estate in payment of accounts; and now, while preparing to leave, Bachman &amp; Co. sacrificed their fine holdings at prices considered ridiculous even then.  The only one of these sales that I remember was that of a lot with a frontage of one hundred and twenty feet on Fort Street, and a one-story adobe house, which they disposed of for four hundred dollars.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have told of Don Juan Forster's possessions-the Santa Margarita <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, where he lived until his death, and also the Las Flores.  These he obtained in 1864, when land was worth but the merest song, buying the same from Pio Pico, his brother-in-law.  The two ranches included over a hundred and forty thousand acres, and pastured some twenty-five thousand cattle, three thousand horses and six or seven thousand sheep; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The hard times strikingly conduced to criminality and, since there were then probably not more than three or four policemen in Los Angeles, some of the desperadoes, here in large numbers and not confined to any particular nationality or color, took advantage of the conditions, even making several peculiar nocturnal assaults upon the guardians of the peace. The methods occasionally adopted satisfied the community that Mexican <HI REND="italics">bandidos</HI>
023.sgm: were at work.  Two of these worthies on horseback, while approaching a policeman, would suddenly dash in opposite directions, bringing a <HI REND="italics">reata</HI>
023.sgm:<P>J. Ross Browne, one of the active Forty-niners in San Francisco and author of <HI REND="italics">Crusoe's Island</HI>
023.sgm: and various other volumes dealing with early life in California and along the Coast, was on and off a visitor to Los Angeles, first passing through here in 1859, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Politics enlivened the situation somewhat in the fall of this year of depression.  In September, the troops were withdrawn from Catalina Island, and the following month most of the guard was brought in from Fort Tejon; and this, creating possibly a feeling of security, paved the way for still larger Union meetings in October and November.  Toward the end of October, Francisco P. Ramirez, formerly editor of <HI REND="italics">El Clamor P&uacute;blico</HI>
023.sgm:<P>As an illustration of how a fortunate plunger acquired property now worth millions, through the disinclination on the part of most people here to add to their taxes in this time of drought, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:I may mention two pieces of land included in the early Ord survey, one hundred and twenty by one hundred and sixty-five feet in size--one at the southwest corner of Spring and Fourth streets, the other at the southeast corner of Fort and Fourth--which were sold on December 12th, 1864, for <HI REND="italics">two dollars and fifty-two cents</HI>
023.sgm:<P>About that very time, there was another and noteworthy movement in favor of the establishment of a railroad between Los Angeles and San Pedro.  In December, committees from outside towns met here with our citizens to debate the subject; but by the end of the several days' conference, no real progress had been made.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The year 1865 gave scant promise, at least in its opening, of better times to come.  To be sure, Northern arms were more and more victorious, and with the approach of Lincoln's second inauguration the conviction grew that under the leadership of such a man national prosperity might return.  Little did we dream that the most dramatic of all tragedies in our history was soon to be enacted.  In Southern California the effects of the long drought continued, and the certainty that the cattle-industry, once so vast and flourishing, was now but a memory, discouraged a people to whom the vision of a far more profitable use of the land had not yet been revealed.</P>
023.sgm:<P>For several years my family, including three children, had been shifting from pillar to post owing to the lack of residences such as are now built to sell or lease, and I could not postpone any longer the necessity of obtaining larger quarters.  We had occupied, at various times, a little shanty on Franklin Street, owned by a carpenter named Wilson; a small, one-story brick on Main Street near First, owned by Henne, the brewer; and once we lived with the Kremers in a one-story house, none too large, on Fort Street.  Again we dwelt on Fort Street in a little brick house that stood on the site of the present Chamber of Commerce building, next door to Governor Downey's, before he moved to Main Street.  The nearest approach to convenience <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>After moving in, we were inconvenienced because there was no driveway, and everything needed for housekeeping had to be carried, in consequence, through the front door of the dwelling. I therefore interviewed my friend and neighbor, Ygn&aacute;cio Garcia, who owned a hundred feet adjoining me, and asked him if he would sell or rent me twenty feet of his property; whereupon he permitted me the free use of twenty feet, thus supplying me with access to the rear of my house.  A few months later, Alfred B. Chapman, Garcia's legal adviser (who, by the way, is still alive)<ANCHOR ID="n23-25">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-25">Died, January 22d, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Incidentally to this story of my selecting a street on which to live, I may say that during the sixties Main and San Pedro streets were among the chief residential sections, and Spring Street was only beginning to be popular for homes.  The fact that some people living on the west side of Main Street built their stables in back-yards connecting with Spring Street; retarded the latter's growth.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Here I may well repeat the story of the naming of Spring Street, particularly as it exemplifies the influence that romance sometimes has upon affairs usually prosaic.  Ord, the surveyor, was then more than prepossessed in favor of the delightful Se&ntilde;orita Trinidad de la Guerra, for whose hand he was, in fact, a suitor and to whom he always referred as <HI REND="italics">Mi Primavera</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On February 3d, a wind-storm, the like of which the proverbial "oldest inhabitant" could scarcely recall, struck Los Angeles amidships, unroofing many houses and blowing down orchards.  Wolfskill lost heavily, and Banning &amp; Company's large barn at the northeast corner of Fort and Second streets, near the old schoolhouse, was demolished, scarcely a post remaining upright.  A curious sight, soon after the storm began to blow, was that of many citizens weighing down and lashing fast their roofs, just as they do in Sweden, Norway and Switzerland, to keep them from being carried to unexpected, not to say inconvenient, locations.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In early days, steamers plying up and down the Pacific Coast, as I have pointed out, were so poor in every respect that it was necessary to make frequent changes in their names, to induce passengers to travel on them at all.  As far back as 1860, one frequently heard the expression, "the old tubs;" and in 1865, even the best-known boat on the Southern run was publicly discussed as "the rotten old <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:," "the old hulk" and "the floating coffin."  At this time, there was a strong feeling against the Steam Navigation Company for its arbitrary treatment of the public, its steamers sometimes leaving a whole day before the date on which they were advertised to depart; and this criticism and dissatisfaction finally resulted in the putting on of the opposition steamer <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1865, Judge Benjamin S. Eaton tried another agricultural experiment which many persons of more experience at first predicted would be a failure.  He had moved into the cottage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:at <HI REND="italics">Fair Oaks</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Tomlinson &amp; Company, always energetic competitors in the business of transportation in Southern California, began running, about the first of April, a new stage line between Los Angeles and San Bernardino, making three trips a week.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On the fifteenth of April, my family physician, Dr. John S. Griffin, paid a professional visit to my house on Main Street, which might have ended disastrously for him.  While we were seated together by an open window in the dining-room, a man named Kane ran by on the street, shouting out the momentous news that Abraham Lincoln had been shot!  Griffin, who was a staunch Southerner, was on his feet instantly, cheering for Jeff Davis.  He gave evidence, indeed, of great mental excitement, and soon seized his hat and rushed for the door, hurrahing for the Confederacy.  In a flash, I realized that Griffin would be in awful jeopardy if he reached the street in that unbalanced condition, and by main force I held him back, convincing him at last of his folly.  In later years the genial Doctor frankly admitted that I had undoubtedly saved him from certain death.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This incident brings to mind another, associated with Henry Baer, whose father, Abraham, a native of Bavaria and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:one of the earliest tailors here, had arrived from New Orleans in 1854.  When Lincoln's assassination was first known, Henry ran out of the house, singing <HI REND="italics">Dixie</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The news of Lincoln's assassination made a profound impression in Los Angeles, though it cannot be denied that some Southern sympathizers, on first impulse, thought that it would be advantageous to the Confederate cause.  There was, therefore, for the moment, some ill-advised exultation; but this was promptly suppressed, either by the military or by the firm stand of the more level-headed members of the community.  Soon even radically-inclined citizens, in an effort to uphold the fair name of the town, fell into line, and steps were taken fittingly to mourn the nation's loss.  On the seventeenth of April, the Common Council passed appropriate resolutions; and Governor Low having telegraphed that Lincoln's funeral would be held in Washington on the nineteenth, at twelve o'clock noon, the Union League of Los Angeles took the initiative and invited the various societies of the city to join in a funeral procession.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On April 19th all the stores were closed, business was suspended and soldiers as well as civilians assembled in front of Arcadia Block.  There were present United States officers, mounted cavalry under command of Captain Ledyard; the Mayor and Common Council; various lodges; the Hebrew Congregation B'nai-B'rith; the Teutonia, the French Benevolent and the Junta Patriotica societies, and numerous citizens.  Under the marshalship of S. F. Lamson the procession moved slowly over what to-day would be regarded as an insignificantly short route: west on Arcadia Street to Main; down Main Street to Spring as far as First; east on First Street to Main and up Main Street, proceeding back to the City Hall by way of Spring, at which point the parade disbanded.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Later, on the same day, there were memorial services in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>RESOLVED, that with feelings of the deepest sorrow we deplore the loss our country has sustained in the untimely end of our late President; but as it has pleased the Almighty to deprive this Country of its Chief and great friend, we bow with submission to the All-wise Will.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I may add that, soon after the assassination of the President, the Federal authorities sent an order to Los Angeles to arrest anyone found rejoicing in the foul deed; and that several persons, soon in the toils, were severely dealt with.  In San Francisco, too, when the startling news was flashed over the wires, Unionist mobs demolished the plants of the <HI REND="italics">Democratic Press</HI>
023.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">News Letter</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the strong Secessionist sentiment in Los Angeles during much of the Civil War period, the City election resulted in a Unionist victory.  Jos&eacute; Mascarel was elected Mayor; William C. Warren, Marshal; J. F. Burns, Treasurer; J. H. Lander, Attorney; and J. W. Beebe, Assessor.  The triumph of the Federal Government doubtless at once began to steady and improve affairs throughout the country; but it was some time before any noticeable progress was felt here.  Particularly unfortunate were those who had gone east or south for actual service, and who were obliged to make their way, finally, back to the Coast.  Among such volunteers was Captain Cameron E. Thom who, on landing at San Pedro, was glad to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Outdoor restaurant gardens were popular in the sixties. On April 23d, the Tivoli Garden was reopened by Henry Sohms, and thither, on holidays and Sundays, many pleasure-lovers gravitated.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in the spring and during the incumbency of Rev. Elias Birdsall as rector, the Right Reverend William Ingraham Kip, who had come to the Pacific Coast in 1853, made his first visit to the Episcopal Church in Los Angeles, as Bishop of California, although really elevated to that high office seven years before.  Bishop Kip was one of the young clergy who pleaded with the unresponsive culprits strung up by the San Francisco Vigilance Committee of 1856; and later he was known as an author.  The Reverend Birdsall, by the way, was Rector of St. Paul's School on Olive Street, between Fifth and Sixth, as late as 1887.</P>
023.sgm:<P>John G. Downey subdivided the extensive Santa Gertrudis <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I have alluded to the Dominguez <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the end of the War, that is, in May, Major-General Irwin McDowell, the unfortunate commander of the Army of the Potomac who had been nearly a year in charge of the Department of the Pacific, made Los Angeles a long-announced visit, coming on the Government steamer <HI REND="italics">Saginaw</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Anticipating this visit of General McDowell, due preparations were made to receive him.  It happened, however, as I have indicated, that Jos&eacute; Mascarel was then Mayor; and since he had never been able to express himself freely in English, though speaking Spanish as well as French, it was feared that embarrassment must follow the meeting of the civil and military personages.  Luckily, however, like many scions of early well-to-do American families, McDowell had been educated in France, and the two chiefs were soon having a free and easy talk in Mascarel's native tongue.</P>
023.sgm:<P>An effort, on May 2d, better to establish St. Vincent's College as the one institution of higher learning here was but natural at that time.  In the middle of the sixties, quite as many children attended private academies in Los Angeles County as were in the public schools, while three-fifths of all children attended no school at all.  At the beginning of the Twentieth Century, two-thirds of all the children in the county attended public schools.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV<LB>H. NEWMARK &amp; CO.--CARLISLE--KING DUEL<LB>1865-1866</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>FROM 1862 I continued for three years, as I have told, in the commission business; and notwithstanding the bad seasons, I was thus pursuing a sufficiently easy and pleasant existence when a remark which, after the lapse of time, I see may have been carelessly dropped, inspired me with the determination to enter again upon a more strenuous and confining life.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On Friday, June 18th, 1865, I was seated in my little office, when a Los Angeles merchant named David Solomon, whose store was in the Arcadia Block, called upon me and, with much feeling, related that while returning by steamer from the North, Prudent Beaudry had made the senseless boast that he would drive every Jew in Los Angeles out of business. Beaudry, then a man of large means, conducted in his one-story adobe building on the northeast corner of Aliso and Los Angeles streets the largest general merchandise establishment this side of San Francisco.  I listened to Solomon's recital without giving expression to my immediately-formed resolve; but no sooner had he left than I closed my office and started for Wilmington.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During the twelve years that I had been in California the forwarding business between Los Angeles and the Coast had seen many changes.  Tomlinson &amp; Company, who had bought out A. W. Timms, controlled the largest tonnage in town, including that of Beaudry, Jones, Childs and others; while <illus entity="a023-0088" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Kaspare Cohn</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0089" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">M. A. Newmark</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0090" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">H. Newmark &amp; Co.'s Store, Arcadia Block, about 1875, Including (left) John Jones's Former Premises</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0091" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">H. Newmark &amp; Co.'s Building, Amestoy Block, about 1884</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Arriving in Wilmington, I found Banning loading a lot of teams with lumber.  I related the substance of Solomon's remarks and proposed a secret partnership, with the understanding that, providing he would release me from the then existing charge of seven dollars and a half per ton for hauling freight from Wilmington to Los Angeles, I should supply the necessary capital, purchase a stock of goods, conduct the business without cost to him and then divide the profits if any should accrue.  Banning said, "I must first consult Don David," meaning Alexander, his partner, promising at the same time to report the result within a few days.  While I was at dinner, therefore, on the following Sunday, Patrick Downey, Banning's Los Angeles agent, called on me and stated that "the Chief" was in his office in the Downey Block, on the site of Temple's old adobe, and would be glad to see me.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Without further parleying, Banning accepted my proposition; and on the following morning, or June 21st, I rented the last vacant store in Stearns's Arcadia Block on Los Angeles Street, which stands to-day, by the way, much as it was erected in 1858.  It adjoined John Jones's, and was nearly opposite the establishment of P. Beaudry.  There I put up the sign of H. Newmark, soon to be changed to H. Newmark &amp; Company; and it is a source of no little gratification to me that from this small beginning has developed the wholesale grocery firm of M. A. Newmark &amp; Company.<ANCHOR ID="n24-26">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-26">Fifty years after this unpretentious venture in Arcadia Block, that il, in the summer of 1915, the half-centenary of M. A. Newmark &amp; company and their predecessors was celebrated with a picnic in the woodlands belonging to Universal City, the holiday and its pleasures having been provided by the firm as a compliment to its employees.  On that occasion, a loving-cup was presented by the employees to M. A. Newmark, who responded feelingly to the speech by M. H. Newmark.  Another, but somewhat differently inscribed cup was tendered Harris Newmark in an address by Herman Flatau, bringing from the venerable recipient a hearty reply, full of genial reminiscence and natural emotion, in which he happily likened his commercial enterprise, once the small store in Los Angeles Street, to a snowball rolling down the mountain-side, gathering in momentum and size and, fortunately, preserving its original whiteness.  Undoubtedly, this Fifty-Year Jubilee will take its place among the pleasantest experiences of a long and varied career.--THE EDITORS.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>At that time, Stearns's property was all in the hands of the Sheriff, Tom&aacute;s Sanchez, who had also been appointed Receiver; and like all the other tenants, I rented my storeroom from Deputy A. J. King.  Rents and other incomes were paid to the Receiver, and out of them a regular monthly allowance of fifty dollars was made to Stearns for his private expenses.  The stock on Stearns's ranches, by the way, was then in charge of Pierre Domec, a well-known and prosperous man, who was here perhaps a decade before I came.</P>
023.sgm:<P>My only assistant was my wide-awake nephew, M. A. Newmark, then fifteen years of age, who had arrived in Los Angeles early in 1865.  At my request Banning &amp; Company released their bookkeeper, Frank Lecouvreur, and I engaged him.  He was a thoroughly reliable man and had, besides, a technical knowledge of wagon materials, in which, as a sideline, I expected to specialize.  While all of these arrangements were being completed, the local business world queried and buzzed as to my intentions.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Having rented quarters, I immediately telegraphed my brother, J. P. Newmark, to buy and ship a quantity of flour, sugar, potatoes, salt and other heavy staples; and these I sold, upon arrival, at cost and steamer freight plus seven dollars and a half per ton.  Since the departure of my brother from Los Angeles for permanent residence in San Francisco (where he entered into partnership with Isaac Lightner, forming J. P. Newmark &amp; Company), he had been engaged in the commission business; and this afforded me facilities I might <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:otherwise not have had.  Inasmuch also, as all of my neighbors were obliged to pay this toll for hauling, while I was not, they were forced to do business at cost.  About the first of July, I went to San Francisco and laid in a complete stock paralleling, with the exception of clothing and dry goods, the lines handled by Beaudry.  Banning, who was then building prairie schooners for which he had ordered some three hundred and fifty tons of iron and other wagon materials, joined me in chartering the brig <HI REND="italics">Tanner</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Thinking over these days of our dealings with the Latterday Saints, I recall a very amusing experience with an apostle named Crosby, who once brought down a number of teams and wagons to load with supplies.  During his visit to town, I invited him and several of his friends to dinner; and in answer to the commonplace inquiry as to his preference for some particular part of a dish, Crosby made the logical Mormonite reply that <HI REND="italics">quantity</HI>
023.sgm:<P>At another time, while reflecting on my first years as a wholesale grocer, I was led to examine a day-book of 1867 and to draw a comparison between the prices then current and now, when the high cost of living is so much discussed.  Raw sugar sold at fourteen cents; starch at sixteen; crushed sugar at seventeen; ordinary tea at sixty; coal oil. at sixty-five cents a gallon; axle-grease at seventy-five cents per tin; bluing at one dollar a pound; and wrapping paper at one dollar and a half per ream.  Spices, not yet sold in cans, cost three dollars for a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:dozen bottles; yeast powders, now superseded by baking powder, commanded the same price per dozen; twenty-five pounds of shot in a bag cost three dollars and <HI REND="italics">a</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The steamers <HI REND="italics">Oriflamme, California, Pacific</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
023.sgm: commenced to run in 1866 and continued until about the middle of the seventies.  The <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
023.sgm: was later sunk in the Straits of San Juan de Fuca; and the <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
023.sgm: was lost on the rocks off Port Harford.  The <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
023.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Ventura</HI>
023.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Constantine</HI>
023.sgm:<P>To resume the suggestive story of I. W. Hellman, who remained in business with his cousin until he was able in 1865 to buy out Adolph Portugal and embark for himself, at the corner of Main and Commercial streets: during his association with large landowners and men of affairs, who esteemed him for his practicality, he was fortunate in securing their confidence and patronage; and being asked so often to operate for them in financial matters, he laid the foundation for his subsequent career as a banker, in which he has attained such success.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Pioneer Oil Company had been organized about the first of February, with Phineas Banning, President; P. Downey, Secretary; Charles Ducommon, Treasurer; and Winfield S. Hancock, Dr. John S. Griffin, Dr. J. B. Winston, M. Keller, B. D. Wilson, J. G. Downey and Volney E. Howard among the trustees; and the company soon acquired title to all <HI REND="italics">brea</HI>
023.sgm:, petroleum or rock oil in San Pasqual <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:.  In the early summer, Sackett &amp; Morgan, on Main Street near the Post Office, exhibited some local kerosene or "coal-oil;" and experimenters were gathering the oil that floated on Pico Spring and refining it, without distillation, at a cost of ten cents a gallon.  Coming just when Major Stroble announced progress in boring at la Ca&ntilde;ada de Brea, these ventures increased here the excitement <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:about oil and soon after wells were sunk in the Camulos <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On Wednesday afternoon, July 5th, at four o'clock, occurred one of the pleasant social occasions of the mid-sixties-the wedding of Solomon Lazard and Miss Caroline, third daughter of Joseph Newmark.  The bride's father performed the ceremony at M. Kremer's residence on Main Street, near my own adobe and the site on which, later, C. E. Thom built his charming residence, with its rural attractions, diagonally across from the pleasant grounds of Colonel J. G. Howard. The same evening at half-past eight a ball and dinner at the Bella Union celebrated the event.</P>
023.sgm:<P>While these festivities were taking place, a quarrel, ending in a tragedy, began in the hotel office below.  Robert Carlisle, who had married Francisca, daughter of Colonel Isaac Williams, and was the owner of some forty-six thousand acres comprising the Chino Ranch, fell into an altercation with A. J. King, then Under Sheriff, over the outcome of a murder trial; but before any further damage was done, friends separated them.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About noon on the following day, however, when people were getting ready to leave for the steamer and everything was life and bustle about the hotel, Frank and Houston King, the Under Sheriff's brothers, passing by the bar-room of the Bella Union and seeing Carlisle inside, entered, drew their six-shooters and began firing at him.  Carlisle also drew a revolver and shot Frank King, who died almost instantly. Houston King kept up the fight, and Carlisle, riddled with bullets, dropped to the sidewalk.  There King, not yet seriously injured, struck his opponent on the head, the force of the blow breaking his weapon; but Carlisle, a man of iron, put forth his little remaining strength, staggered to the wall, raised his pistol with both hands, took deliberate aim and fired.  It was his last, but effective shot, for it penetrated King's body.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carlisle was carried into the hotel and placed on a billiard-table; and there, about three o'clock, he expired.  At the first exchange of shots, the people nearby, panic-stricken, fled, and only a merciful Providence prevented the sacrifice of other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Houston King having recovered, he was tried for Carlisle's murder, but was acquitted; the trial contributing to make the affair one of the most mournful of all tragic events in the early history of Los Angeles, and rendering it impossible to express the horror of the public.  One feature only of the terrible contest afforded a certain satisfaction, and that was the splendid exhibition of those qualities, in some respects heroic, so common among the old Californians of that time.</P>
023.sgm:<P>July was clouded with a particularly gruesome murder. George Williams and Cyrus Kimball of San Diego, while removing with their families to Los Angeles, had spent the night near the Santa Ana River, and while some distance from camp, at sunrise next morning, were overtaken by seven armed desperadoes, under the leadership of one Jack O'Brien, and without a word of explanation, were shot dead.  The women, hearing the commotion, ran toward the spot, only to be commanded by the robbers to deliver all money and valuables in their possession.  Over three thousand dollars--the entire savings of their husbands--was secured, after which the murderers made their escape.  <HI REND="italics">Posses</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Stimulated, perhaps, by the King-Carlisle tragedy, the Common Council in July prohibited everybody except officers and travelers from carrying a pistol, dirk, sling-shot or sword; but the measure lacked public support, and little or no attention was paid to the law.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>349</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Some idea of the modest proportion of business affairs in the early sixties may be gathered from the fact that, when the Los Angeles Post Office, on August 10th, was made a money deposit office, it was obligatory that all cash in excess of five hundred dollars should be despatched by steamer to San Francisco.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1865, W. H. Perry, having been given a franchise to light the city with gas, organized the Los Angeles City Gas Company, five years later selling out his holdings at a large profit. A promise was made to furnish free gas for lamps at the principal crossings on Main Street and for lights in the Mayor's office, and the consumers' price at first agreed upon was ten dollars a thousand cubic feet.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The history of Westlake Park is full of interest.  About 1865, the City began to sell part of its public land, in lots of thirty-five acres, employing E. W. Noyes as auctioneer.  Much of it went at five and ten dollars an acre; but when the district now occupied by the park and lake was reached, the auctioneer called in vain for bids at even a dollar an acre; nobody wanted the alkali hillocks. Then the auctioneer offered the area at twenty-five cents an acre, but still received no bids, and the sale was discontinued.  In the late eighties, a number of citizens who had bought land in the vicinity came to Mayor Workman and promised to pay one-half of the cost of making a lake and laying out pleasure grounds on the unsightly place; and as the Mayor favored the plan, it was executed, and this was the first step in the formation of Westlake Park.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On September 2d, Dr. J. J. Dyer, a dentist from San Francisco, having opened an office in the Bella Union hotel, announced that he would visit the homes of patrons and there extract or repair the sufferers' teeth.  The complicated equipment of a modern dentist would hardly permit of such peripatetic service to-day, although representatives of this profession and also certain opticians still travel to many of the small inland towns in California, once or twice a year, stopping in each for a week or two at a time.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have spoken of the use, in 1853, of river water for drinking, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>350</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Conway &amp; Waite sold the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
023.sgm:<P>To complete what I was saying about the Schlesingers: In 1865, Moritz returned to Germany.  Jacob had arrived in Los Angeles in 1860, but disappearing four years later, his whereabouts was a mystery until, one fine day, his brother received a letter from him dated, "Gun Boat <HI REND="italics">Pocahontas</HI>
023.sgm:." Jake had entered the service of Uncle Sam!  The <HI REND="italics">Pocahontas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On November 27th, Andrew J. Glassell and Colonel James G. Howard arrived together in Los Angeles.  The former had been admitted to the California Bar some ten or twelve years before; but in the early sixties he temporarily abandoned his profession and engaged in ranching near Santa Cruz.  After the War, Glassell drifted back to the practice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>351</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>To add to the excitement of the middle sixties, a picturesque street encounter took place, terminating almost fatally.  Colonel, the redoubtable E. J. C. Kewen, and a good-natured German named Fred Lemberg, son-in-law to the old miller Bors, having come to blows on Los Angeles Street near Mellus's Row, Lemberg knocked Kewen down; whereupon friends interfered and peace was apparently restored.  Kewen, a Southerner, dwelt upon the fancied indignity to which he had been subjected and went from store to store until he finally borrowed a pistol; after which, in front of John Jones's, he lay in wait.  When Lemberg, who, because of his nervous energy, was known as the Flying Dutchman, again appeared, rushing across the street in the direction of Mellus's Row, the equally excited Colonel opened fire, drawing from his adversary a retaliatory round of shots.  I was standing nearly opposite the scene and saw the Flying Dutchman and Kewen, each dodging around a pillar in front of The Row, until finally Lemberg, with a bullet in his abdomen, ran out into Los Angeles Street and fell to the ground, his legs convulsively assuming a perpendicular position and then dropping back. After recovering from what was thought to be a fatal wound, Lemberg left Los Angeles for Arizona or Mexico; but before he reached his destination, he was murdered by Indians.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have told of the trade between Los Angeles and Salt Lake City, which started up briskly in 1855, and grew in importance until the completion of the transcontinental railroad put an end to it.  Indeed, in 1865 and 1866 Los Angeles enterprise pushed forward until merchandise was teamed as far as Bannock, Idaho, four hundred and fifty miles beyond Salt Lake, and Helena, Montana, fourteen hundred miles away. This indicates <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>352</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The Spanish drama was the event of December I 7th, when Se&ntilde;or Don Guirado L. del Castillo and Se&ntilde;ora Amelia Estrella del Castillo played <HI REND="italics">La Trenza de sus Cabellos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1865 or 1866, William T. Glassell, a younger brother of Andrew Glassell, came to Los Angeles on a visit; and being attracted by the Southwest country, he remained to assist Glassell &amp; Chapman in founding Orange, formerly known as Richland.  No doubt pastoral California looked good to young Glassell, for he had but just passed eighteen weary months in a Northern military prison.  Having thought out a plan for blowing up the United States ironclads off Charleston Harbor, Lieutenant Glassell supervised the construction of a cigar-shaped craft, known as a <HI REND="italics">David</HI>
023.sgm:, which carried a torpedo attached to the end of a fifteen-foot pole; and on October 5th, 1863, young Glassell and three other volunteers steamed out in the darkness against the formidable new <HI REND="italics">Ironsides</HI>
023.sgm:<P>John T. Best, the Assessor, was another pioneer who had an adventurous life prior to, and for a long time after, coming to California.  Having run away to sea from his Maine home about the middle fifties, Best soon found himself among pirates; but escaping their clutches, he came under the domination of a captain whose cruelty, off desolate Cape Horn, was hardly preferable to death.   Reaching California about 1858, Best fled from another captain's brutality and, making his way into the Northern forests, was taken in and protected by kind-hearted woodmen secluded within palisades. Successive Indian outbreaks constantly threatened him and his comrades, and for years he was compelled to defend himself against the savages.  At last, safe and sound, he settled within the pale of civilization, at the outbreak of the Civil War enlisting as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>353</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The year 1866 is memorable as the concluding period of the great War.  Although Lee had surrendered in the preceding April, more than fifteen months elapsed before the Washington authorities officially proclaimed the end of the Titanic struggle which left one-half of the nation prostrate and the other half burdened with new and untold responsibilities.  By the opening of the year, however, one of the miracles of modern history--the quiet and speedy return of the soldier to the vocations of peace--began, and soon some of those who had left for the front when the War broke out were to be seen again in our Southland, starting life anew.  With them, too, came a few pioneers from the East, harbingers of an army soon to settle our valleys and seasides.  All in all, the year was the beginning of a brighter era.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Here it may not be amiss to take up the tale of the mimic war in which Phineas Banning and I engaged, in the little commercial world of Los Angeles, and to tell to what an extent the fortunes of my competitors were influenced, and how the absorption of the transportation charge from the seaboard caused their downfall.  O. W. Childs, in less than three months, found the competition too severe and surrendered "lock, stock and barrel;" P. Beaudry, whose vain-glorious boast had stirred up this rumpus, sold out to me on January 1st, 1866, just a few months after his big talk.  John Jones was the last to yield.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In January, 1866, I bought out Banning, who was soon to take his seat in the Legislature for the advancing of his San Pedro Railroad project, and agreed to pay him, in the future, seven dollars and a half per ton for hauling my goods from Wilmington to Los Angeles, which was mutually satisfactory; and when we came to balance up, it was found that Banning had received, for his part in the enterprise, an amount equal to all that would otherwise have been charged for transportation and a tidy sum besides.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sam, brother of Kaspare Cohn, who had been in Carson <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>354</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Several references have been made to the trade between Los Angeles and Arizona, due in part to the needs of the Army there.  I remember that early in February not less than twenty-seven Government wagons were drawn up in front of H. Newmark &amp; Company's store, to be loaded with seventy to seventy-five tons of groceries and provisions for troops in the Territory.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the handicaps in this wagon-train traffic, there was still much objection to railroads, especially to the plan for a line between Los Angeles and San Pedro, some of the strongest opposition coming from El Monte where, in February, ranchers circulated a petition, disapproving railroad bills introduced by Banning into the Legislature.  A common argument was that the railroad would do away with horses and the demand for barley; and one wealthy citizen who succeeded in inducing many to follow his lead, vehemently insisted that two trains a month, for many years, would be all that could be expected!  By 1874, however, not less than fifty to sixty freight cars were arriving daily in Los Angeles from Wilmington.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Once more, in 1866, the Post Office was moved, this time to a building opposite the Bella Union hotel.  There it remained until perhaps 1868, when it was transferred to the northwest corner of Main and Market streets.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1866, the Los Angeles Board of Education was petitioned to establish a school where Spanish as well as English should be taught--probably the first step toward the introduction into public courses here of the now much-studied <HI REND="italics">castellano</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In noting the third schoolhouse, at the corner of San Pedro and Washington streets, I should not forget to say that Judge Dryden bought the lot for the City, at a cost of one hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>355</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Piped gas as well as water had been quite generally brought into private use shortly after their introduction, all pipes running along the surface of walls and ceilings, in neither a very judicious nor ornamental arrangement.  The first gas fixtures consisted of the old-fashioned, unornamented drops from the ceiling, connected at right angles to the cross-pipe, with its two plain burners, one at either end, forming an inverted T (<illus entity="A0230379" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
023.sgm:<P>In September, Leon Loeb arrived in Los Angeles and entered the employ of S. Lazard &amp; Company, later becoming a partner.  When Eugene Meyer left for San Francisco on the first of January, 1884, resigning his position as French Consular Agent, Loeb succeeded him, both in that capacity and as head of the firm.  After fifteen years service, the French Government conferred upon Mr. Loeb the decoration of an Officer of the Academy.  As Past Master of the Odd Fellows, he became in time one of the oldest members of Lodge No. 35. On March 23d, 1879, Loeb married my eldest daughter, Estelle; and on July 22d, 1911, he died.  Joseph P. and Edwin J. Loeb, the attorneys and partners of Irving M. Walker, (son-in-law of Tom&aacute;s Lorenzo Duque),<ANCHOR ID="n24-27">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-27">Died on April 6th, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>In the summer there came to Los Angeles from the Northern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>356</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Not only was Burton an accomplished scholar and experienced teacher, but Mrs. Burton was a linguist of talent and also proficient in both instrumental and vocal music.  Our eldest children attended the Burton School, as did also those of many friends such as the Kremers, Whites, Morrises, Griffiths, the Volney Howards, Kewens, Scotts, Nichols, the Schumachers, Joneses and the Bannings.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Daniel Bohen, another watchmaker and jeweler, came after Pyle, establishing himself, on September 11th, on the south side of Commercial Street.  He sold watches, clocks, jewelry and spectacles; and he used to advertise with the figure of a huge watch.  S. Nordlinger, who arrived here in 1868, bought Bohen out and continued the jewelry business during forty-two years, until his death in 1911, when, as a pioneer jeweler, he was succeeded by Louis S. and Melville Nordlinger, who still use the title of S. Nordlinger &amp; Sons.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charles C. Lips, a German, came to Los Angeles from Philadelphia in 1866 and joined the wholesale liquor firm of E. Martin &amp;. Company, later Lips, Craigue &amp; Company, in the Baker Block.  As a volunteer fireman, he was a member of the old Thirty-Eights; a fact adding interest to the appointment, on February 28th, 1905, of his son, Walter Lips, as Chief of the Los Angeles Fire Department.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>357</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On October 3d, William Wolfskill died, mourned by many. Though but sixty-eight years of age, he had witnessed much in the founding of our great Southwestern commonwealth; and notwithstanding the handicaps to his early education, and the disappointments of his more eventful years, he was a man of marked intelligence and remained unembittered and kindly disposed toward his fellow-men.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A good example of what an industrious man, following an ordinary trade, could accomplish in early days was afforded by Andrew Joughin, a blacksmith, who came here in 1866, a powerful son of the Isle of Man, measuring over six feet and tipping the beam at more than two hundred pounds.  He had soon saved enough money to buy for five hundred dollars <HI REND="italics">a</HI>
023.sgm: large frontage at Second and Hill streets, selling it shortly after for fifteen hundred.  From Los Angeles, Joughin went to Arizona and then to San Juan Capistrano, but was back here again in 1870, opening another shop.  Toward the middle seventies, Joughin was making rather ingenious plows of iron and steel which attracted considerable attention.  As fast as he accumulated a little money, he invested it in land, buying in 1874, for six thousand dollars, some three hundred and sixty acres comprising a part of one of the Ci&eacute;nega <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
023.sgm:, to which he moved in 1876.  Seven years later, he purchased three hundred and five acres once called the Tom Gray Ranch, now known by the more pretentious name of Arlington Heights. In 1888, three years after he had secured six hundred acres of the Palos Verdes <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Pat Goodwin was another blacksmith, who reached Los Angeles in 1866 or 1867, shoeing his way, as it were, south from San Francisco, through San Jos&eacute;, Whisky Flat and other picturesque places, in the service of A. O. Thorn, one of the stage-line proprietors.  He had a shop first on Spring Street, where later the Empire Stables were opened, and afterward at the corner of Second and Spring streets, on the site in time bought by J. E. Hollenbeck.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>358</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Still another smith of this period was Henry King (brother of John King, formerly of the Bella Union), who in 1879-80 served two terms as Chief of Police.  Later, A. L. Bath was a well-known wheelwright who located his shop on Spring Street near Third.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1866, quite a calamity befell this pueblo: the abandonment by the Government of Drum Barracks.  As this had been one of the chief sources of revenue for our small community, the loss was severely felt, and the immediate effect disastrous. About the same time, too, Samuel B. Caswell (father of W. M. Caswell, first of the Los Angeles Savings Bank and now of the Security), who had come to Los Angeles the year before, took into partnership John F. Ellis, and under the title of Caswell &amp; Ellis, they started a good-sized grocery and merchandise business; and between the competition that they brought and the reduction of the circulating medium, times with H. Newmark &amp; Company became somewhat less prosperous.  Later, John H. Wright was added to the firm, and it became Caswell, Ellis &amp; Wright.  On September 1st, 1871, the firm dissolved.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>359</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV<LB>REMOVAL TO NEW YORK, AND RETURN <LB>1867-1868</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>THE reader may already have noted that more than one important move in my life has been decided upon with but little previous deliberation.  During August, 1866, while on the way to a family picnic at La Ballona, my brother suggested the advisability of opening an office for H. Newmark &amp; Company in New York; and so quickly had I expressed my willingness to remove there that, when we reached the <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>My family at this time consisted of my wife and four children; and together on January 29th, 1867, we left San Pedro for New York, by way of San Francisco and Panam&aacute;, experiencing frightfully hot weather.  Stopping at Acapulco, during Maximilian's revolution, we were summarily warned to keep away from the fort on the hill; while at Panam&aacute; yellow fever, spread by travelers recently arrived from South America, caused the Captain to beat a hasty retreat.  Sailing on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Henry Chancey</HI>
023.sgm: from Aspinwall, we arrived at New York on the sixth of March; and having domiciled my family comfortably, my next care was to establish an office on the third floor at 31 and 33 Broadway, placing it in charge of M. J. Newmark, who had preceded me to the metropolis a year before.  In a short time, I bought a home on Forty-ninth Street, between Sixth and Seventh avenues, then an agreeable residence district.  An <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>360</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:intense longing to see my old home next induced me to return to Europe, and I sailed on May 16th for Havre on the steam-propeller <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
023.sgm:; the band playing <HI REND="italics">The Highland Fling</HI>
023.sgm: as the vessel left the pier.  In mid-ocean, the ship's propeller broke, and she completed the voyage under sail.  Three months later, I returned on the <HI REND="italics">Russia</HI>
023.sgm:<P>It was during this visit that, tarrying for a week in the brilliant French capital, I saw the Paris Exposition, housed to a large extent in one immense building in the Champ de Mars.  I was wonderfully impressed with both the city and the fair, as well as with the enterprising and artistic French people who had created it, although I was somewhat disappointed that, of the fifty thousand or more exhibitors represented, but seven hundred were Americans.</P>
023.sgm:<P>One little incident may be worth relating.  While I was standing in the midst of the machinery one day, the <HI REND="italics">gendarmes</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Not long ago I was reading of a trying ordeal in the life of Elihu B. Washburne, American Minister to France, who, having unluckily removed his shoe at a Court dinner, was compelled to rise with the company on the sudden appearance of royalty, and to step back with a stockinged foot!  The incident recalled an experience of my own in London.  I had ordered from a certain shoemaker in Berlin a pair of patent-leather gaiters which I wore for the first time when I went to Covent Garden with an old friend and his wife.  It was a very warm evening and the performance had not progressed far <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>361</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A trifling event also lingers among the memories of this revisit to my native place.  While journeying towards Loebau in a stage, I happened to mention that I had married since settling in America; whereupon one of my fellow-passengers inquired whether my wife was white, brown or black?</P>
023.sgm:<P>Major Ben C. Truman was President Johnson's private secretary until he was appointed, in 1866, special agent for the Post Office department on the Pacific Coast.  He came to Los Angeles in February, 1867, to look after postal matters in Southern California and Arizona, but more particularly to re&euml;stablish, between Los Angeles and points in New Mexico, the old Butterfield Route which had been discontinued on account of the War.  Truman opened post offices at a number of places in Los Angeles County.  On December 8th, 1869, the Major married Miss Augusta Mallard, daughter of Judge J. S. Mallard.  From July, 1873, until the late summer of 1877, he controlled the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:, contributing to its columns many excellent sketches of early life in Southern California, some of which were incorporated in one or more substantial volumes; and of all the pioneer journalists here, it is probable that none have surpassed this affable gentleman in brilliancy and genial, kindly touch.  Among Truman's books is an illustrated work entitled <HI REND="italics">Semi-Tropical California</HI>
023.sgm:, dedicated, with a <HI REND="italics">Dominus vobiscum</HI>
023.sgm:, to Phineas Banning and published in San Francisco, 1874; while another volume, issued seven years later, is devoted to <HI REND="italics">Occidental Sketches</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>362</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A fire, starting in Bell's Block on Los Angeles Street, on July 13th, during my absence from the city, destroyed property to the value of sixty-four thousand dollars; and the same season, S. Lazard &amp; Company moved their dry goods store from Bell's Row to Wolfskill's building on Main Street, opposite the Bella Union hotel.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Germain Pellissier, a Frenchman from the Hautes-Alpes, came to Los Angeles in August, and for twenty-eight years lived at what is now the comer of Seventh and Olive streets. Then the land was in the country; but by 1888, Pellissier had built the block that bears his name.  On settling here, Pellissier went into sheep-raising, scattering stock in Kern and Ventura counties, and importing sheep from France and Australia in order to improve his breed; and from one ram alone in a year, as he demonstrated to some doubting challengers, he clipped sixty-two and a half pounds of wool.</P>
023.sgm:<P>P. Beaudry began to invest in hill property in 1867, at once improving the steep hillside of New High Street, near Sonora Town, which he bought in, at sheriff's sale, for fifty-five dollars. Afterward, Beaudry purchased some twenty acres between Second, Fourth, Charity and Hill streets, for which he paid five hundred and seventeen dollars; and when he had subdivided this into eighty lots, he cleared about thirty thousand dollars. Thirty-nine acres, between Fourth and Sixth, and Pearl and Charity streets, he finally disposed of at a profit, it is said, of over fifty thousand dollars.</P>
023.sgm:<P>John G. Downey having subdivided Nieto's <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>363</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Soon afterward, Phineas Banning renewed the agitation to connect Los Angeles with Wilmington by rail.  He petitioned the County to assist the enterprise, but the larger taxpayers, backed by the over-conservative  farmers, still  opposed the scheme, tooth and nail, until it finally took all of Banning's influence to carry the project through to a successful termination.</P>
023.sgm:<P>George S. Patton, whose father, Colonel Patton of the Confederate Army, was killed at Winchester, September 19th, 1864, is a nephew of Andrew Glassell and the oldest of four children who came to Los Angeles with their mother and her father, Andrew Glassell, Sr., in 1867.  Educated in the public schools of Los Angeles, Patton afterward attended the Virginia Military Institute, where Stonewall Jackson had been a professor, returning to Los Angeles in September, 1877, when he entered the law firm of Glassell, Smith &amp; Patton.  In 1884, he married Miss Ruth, youngest daughter of B. D. Wilson, after which he retired to private life.  One of Patton's sisters married Tom Brown; another sister became the wife of the popular physician, Dr. W. Le Moyne Wills.  In 1871, his mother, relict of Colonel George S. Patton, married her kinsman, Colonel George H. Smith.</P>
023.sgm:<P>John Moran, Sr., conducted a vineyard on San Pedro Street near the present Ninth, in addition to which he initiated the soda-water business here, selling his product at twenty-five cents a bottle.  Soda water, however, was too "soft" a drink to find much favor and little was done to establish the trade on a firm basis until 1867, when H. W. Stoll, a German, drove from Colorado to California and organized the Los Angeles Soda Water Works.  As soon as he began to manufacture the aerated beverages, Stevens &amp; Wood set up the first soda-water fountain in Los Angeles, on North Spring Street near the Post Office.  After that, bubbling water and strangely colored syrups gained in popularity until, in 1876, quite an expensive fountain was purchased by Preuss &amp; Pironi's drug store, on Spring Street opposite Court.  And what is more, they brought in hogsheads from Saratoga what would be difficult <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>364</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>An important industry of the late sixties and early seventies was the harvesting of castor beans, then growing wild along the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">chilicothe</HI>
023.sgm: --derived, according to Charles F. Lummis, from the Aztec, <HI REND="italics">chilacayote</HI>
023.sgm:, the wild cucumber, or <HI REND="italics">echinocystes fabacea</HI>
023.sgm: --is the name of a plaything supplied by diversified nature, which grew on large vines, especially along the slope leading down to the river on what is now Elysian Park, and in the neighborhood of the hills adjacent to the Mallard and Nichols places.  Four or five of these <HI REND="italics">chilicothes</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Just about the time when I first gazed upon the scattered houses of our little pueblo, the Pacific Railway Expedition, sent out from Washington, prepared and published a tinted lithograph sketch of Los Angeles, now rather rare.  In 1867, Stephen A. Rendall, an Englishman of Angora goat fame, who had been here, off and on, as a photographer, devised one of the first large panoramas of Los Angeles, which he sold by advance subscription.  It was made in sections; and as the only view of that year extant, it also has become notable as an historical souvenir.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Surrounded by his somewhat pretentious gallery and his mysterious darkroom on the top floor of Temple's new block, V. Wolfenstein also took good, bad and indifferent photographs, having arrived here, perhaps, in the late sixties, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>365</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Louis Lewin must have arrived here in the late sixties. Subsequently, he bought out the stationery business of W. J. Brodrick, and P. Lazarus, upon his arrival from Tucson in 1874, entered into partnership with him; Samuel Hellman, as was not generally known at the time, also having an interest in the firm which was styled Louis Lewin &amp; Company.  When the Centennial of the United States was celebrated here in 1876, a committee wrote a short historical sketch of Los Angeles; and this was published by Lewin &amp; Company. Now the firm is known as the Lazarus Stationery Company, P. Lazarus<ANCHOR ID="n25-28">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-28">Died on September 30th, 1914.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>On November 18th, the Common Council contracted with Jean Louis Sainsevain to lay some five thousand feet of two- and three-inch iron pipe at a cost of about six thousand dollars in scrip; but the great flood of that winter caused Sainsevain so many failures and losses that he transferred his lease, in the spring or summer of 1868, to Dr. J. S. Griffin, Prudent Beaudry, and Solomon Lazard, who completed Sainsevain's contract with the City.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. Griffin and his associates then proposed to lease the water-works from the City for a term of fifty years, but soon changed this to an offer to buy.  When the matter came up before the Council for adoption, there was a tie vote, whereupon Murray Morrison, just before resigning as President of the Council, voted in the affirmative, his last official act being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>366</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>At this stage of the negotiations, John Jones made a rival offer, and P. McFadden, who had been an unsuccessful bidder for the Sainsevain lease, tried with Juan Bernard to enter into a twenty-year contract.  Notwithstanding these other offers, however, the City authorities thought it best, on July 22d, 1868, to vote the franchise to Dr. Griffin, S. Lazard and P. Beaudry, who soon transferred their thirty-year privileges to a corporation known as the Los Angeles City Water Company, in which they became trustees.  Others associated in this enterprise were Eugene Meyer, I. W. Hellman, J. G. Downey, A. J. King, Stephen Hathaway Mott--Tom's brother--W. H. Perry and Charles Lafoon.  A spirited fight followed the granting of the thirty-year lease, but the water company came out victorious.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the late sixties, when the only communities of much consequence in Los Angeles County were Los Angeles, Anaheim and Wilmington, the latter place and Anaheim Landing were the shipping ports of Los Angeles, San Bernardino and Arizona. At that time, or during some of the especially prosperous days of Anaheim, the slough at Anaheim Landing (since filled up by flood) was so formed, and of such depth, that heavily-loaded vessels ran past the warehouse to a considerable distance inland, and there unloaded their cargoes. At the same time the leading Coast steamers began to stop there.  Not many miles away was the corn-producing settlement, Gospel Swamp.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have pointed out the recurring weakness in the wooden pipes laid by Sainsevain and Marchessault.  This distressing difficulty, causing, as it did, repeated losses and sharp criticism by the public, has always been regarded as the motive for ex-Mayor Marchessault's death on January 20th, when he committed suicide in the old City Council room.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>367</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Jacob Loew arrived in America in 1865 and spent three years in New York before he came to California in 1868.  Clerking for a while in San Francisco, he went to the Old Town of San Diego, then to Galatin, and in 1872 settled in Downey; and there, in conjunction with Jacob Baruch, afterward of Haas, Baruch &amp; Company, he conducted for years the principal general merchandise business of that section. On coming to Los Angeles in 1883, he bought, as I have said, the Deming Mill now known as the Capitol Mills. Two years later, on the second of August, he was married to my daughter Emily.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. Joseph Kurtz, once a student at Giessen, arrived in Los Angeles on February 3d, with a record for hospital service at Baltimore during the Civil War, having been induced to come here by the druggist, Adolf Junge, with whom for a while he had some association.  Still later he joined Dr. Rudolph Eichler in conducting a pharmacy.  For some time prior to his graduation in medicine, in 1872, Dr. Kurtz had an office in the Lanfranco Building.  For many years, he was surgeon to the Southern Pacific Railroad Company and consulting physician to the Santa F&eacute; Railroad Company, and he also served as President of the Los Angeles College Clinical Association.  I shall have further occasion to refer to this good friend.  Dr. Carl Kurtz is distinguishing himself in the profession of his father.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hale fellow well met and always in favor with a large circle, was my Teutonic friend, Lewis Ebinger, who, after coming to Los Angeles in 1868, turned clay into bricks.  Perhaps this also recalled the days of his childhood when he made pies of the same material; but be that as it may, Lewis in the early seventies made his first venture in the bakery business, opening shop on North Spring Street.  In the bustling Boom days when real estate men saw naught but the sugar-coating, Ebinger, who had moved to elaborate quarters in a building at the southwest corner of Spring and Third streets, was dispensing cream puffs and other baked delicacies to an enthusiastic and unusually large clientele.  But since everybody then had money, or thought that he had, one such place was not enough to satisfy the ravenous speculators; with the result <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>368</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. L. W. French, one of the organizers of the Odontological Society of Southern California, also came to Los Angeles in 1868 --so early that he found but a couple of itinerant dentists, who made their headquarters here for a part of the year and then hung out their shingles in other towns or at remote ranches.</P>
023.sgm:<P>One day in the spring of 1868, while I was residing in New York City, I received a letter from Phineas Banning, accompanied by a sealed communication, and reading about as follows:</P>
023.sgm:<P>DEAR HARRIS:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Herewith I enclose to you a letter of the greatest importance, addressed to Miss Mary Hollister (daughter, as you know, of Colonel John H. Hollister), who will soon be on her way to New York, and who may be expected to arrive there by the next steamer.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This letter I beg you to deliver to Miss Hollister personally, immediately upon her arrival in New York, thereby obliging</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yours obediently,</P>
023.sgm:<P>(Signed)  PHINEAS BANNING.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The steamer referred to had not yet arrived, and I lost no time in arranging that I should be informed, by the company's agents, of the vessel's approach, as soon as it was sighted. This notification came, by the by, through a telegram received before daylight one bitterly cold morning, when I was told that the ship would soon be at the dock; and as quickly as I could, I procured a carriage, hastened to the wharf and, before any passengers had landed, boarded the vessel.  There I sought out Miss Hollister, a charming lady, and gave her the mysterious missive.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I thought no more of this matter until I returned to Los Angeles when, welcoming me back, Banning told me that the letter I had had the honor to deliver aboard ship in New York contained nothing less than a proposal of marriage, his solicitation of Miss Hollister's heart and hand!</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>369</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>One reason why the Bella Union played such an important <HI REND="italics">r&ocirc;le</HI>
023.sgm: in the early days of Los Angeles, was because there was no such thing as a high-class restaurant; indeed, the first recollection I have of anything like a satisfactory place is that of Louis Vielle, known by some as French Louis and nicknamed by others Louis <HI REND="italics">Gordo</HI>
023.sgm:, or Louis the Fat.  Vielle came to Los Angeles from Mexico, a fat, jolly little French caterer, not much over five feet in height and weighing, I should judge, two hundred and fifty pounds; and this great bulk, supported as it was by two peg-like legs, rendered his appearance truly comical.  His blue eyes, light hair and very rosy cheeks accentuated his ludicrous figure.  Louis, who must have been about fifty-four years of age when I first met him, then conducted his establishment in John Lanfranco's building on Main Street, between Commercial and Requena; from which fact the place was known as the Lanfranco, although it subsequently received the more suggestive title, the What Cheer House.  Louis was an acknowledged expert in his art, but he did not always choose to exert himself.  Nevertheless his lunches, for which he charged fifty or seventy-five cents, according to the number of dishes served, were well thought of, and it is certain that Los Angeles had never had so good a restaurant before.  At one time, our caterer's partner was a man named Frederico Guiol, whom he later bought out.  Louis could never master the English language, and to his last day spoke with a strong French accent.  His florid cheeks were due to the enormous quantity of claret consumed both at and between meals.  He would mix it with soup, dip his bread into it and otherwise absorb it in large quantities.  Indeed, at the time of his fatal illness, while he was living with the family of Don Louis Sainsevain, it was assumed that over-indulgence in wine was the cause.  Be that as it may, he sickened and died, passing away at the Lanfranco home in 1872.  Vielle had prospered, but during his sickness he spent largely of his means.  After his death, it was discovered that he had been in the habit of hiding his coin in little niches in the wall of his room and in other secret places; and only a small amount of the money was found.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>370</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:A few of the real pioneers recollect Louis <HI REND="italics">Gordo</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Both Judge Robert Maclay Widney and Dr. Joseph P. Widney, the surgeon, took up their residence in Los Angeles in 1868.  R. M. Widney set out from Ohio about 1855 and, having spent two years in exploring the Rockies, worked for a while in the Sacramento Valley, where he chopped wood for a living, and finally reached Los Angeles with a small trunk and about a hundred dollars in cash.  Here he opened a law and real-estate office and started printing the <HI REND="italics">Real Estate Advertiser</HI>
023.sgm:<P>I have spoken of the ice procured from the San Bernardino mountains in rather early days, but I have not said that in summer, when we most needed the cooling commodity, there was none to be had.  The enterprising firm of Queen &amp; Gard, the first to arrange for regular shipments of Truckee River ice in large quantities by steamer from the North, announced their purpose late in March, 1868, of building an ice house on Main Street; and about the first of April they began delivering daily, in a large and substantial wagon especially constructed for that purpose and which, for the time being, was an object of much curiosity.  Liberal support was given the enterprise; and perhaps it is no wonder that the perspiring editor of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The founding of an ice depot is another step forward in the progress that is to make us a great City.  We have Water and Gas, and now we are to have the additional luxury of Ice!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Banning's fight for the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad has been touched upon more than once.  Tomlinson, his rival, <illus entity="a023-0092" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Dr. Trumman H. Rose</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0093" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Andrew Glassell</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0094" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Dr. Vincent Gelcich</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0095" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Charles E. Miles, in Uniform of 38's</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0096" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Facsimile of Stock Certificate, Pioneer Oil Co.</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0097" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">American Bakery, Jake Kuhrts's Building, about 1880</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>371</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On May 16th, Henry Hamilton, whose newspaper, the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. H. S. Orme, once President of the State Board of Health of California, arrived in Los Angeles on July 4th and soon became as prominent in Masonic as in medical circles.  Dr. Harmon, an early successor to Drs. Griffin and Den, first settled here in 1868, although he had previously visited California in 1853.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carl Felix Heinzeman, at one time a well-known chemist and druggist, emigrated from Germany in 1868 and came direct to Los Angeles, where after succeeding J. B. Saunders &amp; Company, he continued, in the Lanfranco Building, what grew to be the largest drug store south of San Francisco.  Heinzeman died on April 29th, 1903.  About the same period, a popular apothecary shop on Main Street, near the Plaza, was known as Chevalier's.  In the seventies, when hygiene and sanitation were given more attention, a Welshman named Hughes conducted a steam-bath establishment on Main Street, almost opposite the Baker Block, and the first place of its kind in the city.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charles F. Harper<ANCHOR ID="n25-29">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: of Mississippi, and the father of ex-Mayor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>372</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-29">Died on September 13th, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Michel L&egrave;vy, an Alsatian, arrived in San Francisco when but seventeen years of age, and after various experiences in California and Nevada towns, he came to Los Angeles in 1868, soon establishing, with Joe Coblentz, the wholesale liquor house of Levy &amp; Coblentz.  The latter left here in 1879, and Levy continued under the firm name of M. Levy &amp; Company until his death in 1905.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Anast&aacute;cio C&aacute;rdenas, a dwarf who weighed but one and a half pounds when born, came to Los Angeles in 1867 and soon appeared before the public as a singer and dancer.  He carried a sword and was popularly dubbed "General."  A brother, Ruperto, long lived here.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When the Canal &amp; Reservoir Company was organized with George Hansen as President and J. J. Warner as Secretary, P. Beaudry contributed heavily to construct a twenty-foot dam across the <HI REND="italics">ca&ntilde;on</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1868, when there was still not a three-story house in Los Angeles, James Alvinza Hayward, a San Franciscan, joined John G. Downey in providing one hundred thousand dollars with which to open, in the old Downey Block on the site of the Temple adobe, the first bank in Los Angeles, under the firm name of Hayward &amp; Company.  The lack of business afforded this enterprise short shrift and they soon retired.  In July of the same year, I. W. Hellman, William Workman, F. P. F. Temple and James R. Toberman started a bank, with a capital of one hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars, under the title of Hellman, Temple &amp; Company, Hellman becoming manager.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I do not remember when postal lock-boxes were first brought into use, but I do recollect that in the late sixties Postmaster <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>373</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A year or two after the Burtons had established themselves here, came another pedagogue in the person of W. B. Lawlor, a thick-set, bearded man with a flushed complexion, who opened a day-school called the Lawlor Institute; and after the Burtons left here to settle at Portland, Oregon, where Burton became headmaster of an academy for advanced students, many of his former pupils attended Lawlor's school.  The two institutions proved quite different in type: the Burton training had tended strongly to languages and literature, while Lawlor, who was an adept at short-cut methods of calculation, placed more stress on arithmetic and commercial education. Burton, who returned to Los Angeles, has been for years a leading member of the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: editorial staff, and <HI REND="italics">Burton's Book on California and its Sunlit Skies</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The most popular piano-teacher of about that time was Professor Van Gilpin.</P>
023.sgm:<P>William Pridham came to Los Angeles in August, having been transferred from the San Francisco office of Wells Fargo &amp; Company, in whose service as pony rider, clerk at Austin, Nevada, and at Sacramento, and cashier in the Northern metropolis he had been for some ten years.  Here he succeeded Major J. R. Toberman, when the latter, after long service, resigned; and with a single office-boy, at one time little Joe Binford, he handled all the business committed to the company's charge.  John Osborn was the outside expressman. Then most of the heavy express matter from San Francisco was carried by steamers, but letters and limited packages of moment were sent by stage.  With the advent of railroads, Pridham was appointed by Wells Fargo &amp; Company Superintendent of the Los Angeles district.  On June 12th, 1880, he married Miss Mary Esther, daughter of Colonel John O. Wheeler, and later <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of that great organization, reminds me that it conducted for years a mail-carrying business.  Three-cent stamped envelopes, imprinted with Wells Fargo &amp; Company's name, were sold to their patrons for ten cents each; and to compensate for this bonus, the Company delivered the letters entrusted to them perhaps one to two hours sooner than did the Government.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This recalls to me a familiar experience on the arrival of the mail from the North.  Before the inauguration of a stage-line, the best time in the transmission of mail matter between San Francisco and Los Angeles was made by water, and Wells Fargo messengers sailed with the steamers.  Immediately upon the arrival of the boat at San Pedro, the messenger boarded the stage, and as soon as he reached Los Angeles, pressed on to the office of the Company, near the Bella Union, where he delivered his bagful of letters.  The steamer generally got in by five o'clock in the morning; and many a time, about seven, have I climbed Signal or Pound Cake Hill-higher in those days than now, and affording in clear weather a view of both ocean and the smoke of the steamer--upon whose summit stood a house, used as a signal station, and there watched for the rival stages, the approach of which was indicated by clouds of dust. I would then hurry with many others to the Express Company's office where, as soon as the bag was emptied, we would all help ourselves unceremoniously to the mail.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In August, General Edward Bouton, a Northern Army officer, came to Los Angeles and soon had a sheep ranch on Boyle Heights-a section then containing but two houses; and two years later he camped where Whittier now lies.  In 1874, he bought land for pasture in the San Jacinto Valley, and for years owned the ocean front at Alamitos Bay from Devil's Gate to the Inlet, boring artesian wells there north of Long Beach.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Louis Robidoux, who had continued to prosper as a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>With the usual flourish of spades, if not of trumpets, ground was broken for the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad at Wilmington on September 19th, and toward the end of November, the rails had been laid about a mile out from Wilmington.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The last contract for carrying the Overland Mail was given to Wells Fargo &amp; Company on October 1st and pledged a round remuneration of one million, seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars per annum, while it also permitted passengers and freight to be transported; but the Company came to have a great deal of competition.  Phineas Banning, for example, had a stage-line between Los Angeles and Yuma, in addition to which mail and passengers were carried in buckboards, large wagons and jerkies.  Moreover there was another stage-line between Tucson and El Paso, and rival stage-lines between El Paso and St. Louis; and in consequence, the Butterfield service was finally abandoned.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This American vehicle, by the by, the jerky, was so named for the very good reason that, as the wagon was built without springs, it <HI REND="italics">jerked</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Of the various Los Angeles roadways in 1868, West Sixth Street was most important in its relation to travel. Along this highway the daily Overland stages entered and departed from the city; and by this route came all the Havilah, Lone Pine, Soledad and Owens River trade, as well as that of the Ballona and Ci&eacute;nega districts.  Sixth Street also led to the Fair Grounds, and over its none too even surface dashed most of the sports and gallants on their way to the race course.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have said that I returned to New York, in 1867, presumably for permanent residence.  Soon after I left Los Angeles, however, Samuel Cohn became desperately ill, and the sole management of H. Newmark &amp; Company suddenly devolved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>376</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Before I left for New York, hardly anything had been done, in subdividing property, save perhaps by the Lugos and Downey, and at Anaheim and Wilmington.  During the time that I was away, however, newspapers and letters from home indicated the changes going on here; and I recall what an impression all this made upon me.  On my way down from San Francisco on Captain Johnson's <HI REND="italics">Orizaba</HI>
023.sgm: in December--about the same time that the now familiar locomotive <HI REND="italics">San Gabriel</HI>
023.sgm:<P>To show the provincial character of Los Angeles fifty years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>377</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Mr. and Mrs. Eugene Meyer</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the metropolis I had found finger-bowls in common use, and having brought back with me such a supply as my family would be likely to need, I discovered that it had actually fallen to my lot to introduce these desirable conveniences into Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>William Ferguson was an arrival of 1868, having come to settle up the business of a brother and remaining to open a livery stable on North Main Street near the Plaza, which he conducted for ten years.  Investing in water company stock, Ferguson abandoned his stable to make water-pipes, a couple of years later, perhaps, than J. F. Holbrook had entered the same field.  Success enabled Ferguson to build a home at 303 South Hill Street, where he found himself the only resident south of Third.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This manufacture here of water pipe recalls a cordial acquaintance with William Lacy, Sr., an Englishman, who was interested with William Rowland in developing the Puente oil fields.  His sons, William, Jr., and Richard H., originators of the Lacy Manufacturing Company, began making pipe and tanks a quarter of a century ago.</P>
023.sgm:<P>C. R. Rinaldi started a furniture business here in 1868, opening his store almost opposite the Stearns's home on North Main Street.  Before long he disposed of an interest to Charles Dotter, and then, I think, sold out to I. W. Lord and moved to the neighborhood of the San Fernando Mission. About the same time, Sidney Lacey, who arrived in 1870 and was a popular clerk with the pioneer carpet and wall-paper house of Smith &amp; Walter, commenced what was to be a long association with this establishment.  In 1876, C. H. Bradley bought out Lord, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>378</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Conrad Hafen, a German-Swiss, reached Los Angeles in December, 1868, driving a six-horse team and battered wagon with which he had braved the privations of Death Valley; and soon he rented a little vineyard, two years later buying for the same purpose considerable acreage on what is now Central Avenue.  Rewarded for his husbandry with some affluence, Hafen built both the old Hafen House and the new on South Hill Street, once a favorite resort for German arrivals.  He retired in 1905.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>379</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI <LB>THE CERRO GORDO MINES<LB>1869</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>IT was early in 1869 that I was walking down Spring Street one day and saw a crowd at the City Hall.  On a large box stood Mayor Joel H. Turner, and just as I arrived a man leaning against the adobe wall called out, "Seven dollars!" The Mayor then announced the bid-for an auction was in progress-" Seven dollars once, seven dollars twice, seven dollars three times!" and as he raised his hand to conclude the sale, I called out, "A half!"  This I did in a spirit of fun; in fact, I did not even know what was being offered!  "Seven dollars fifty once, seven dollars fifty twice, seven dollars fifty three times, and sold-to Harris Newmark!" called the Mayor.  I then inquired what I had bought, and was shown the location of about twenty acres, a part of nine hundred being sold by the City at prices ranging from five to ten dollars an acre.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The piece purchased was west of the city limits, and I kept it until 1886 when I had almost forgotten that I was the owner. Then George Williamson, one of the first salesmen of II. Newmark &amp; Company, who became a boomer of the period, bought it from me for ten thousand dollars and resold it within two weeks for fourteen thousand, the Sunset Oil Company starting there, as the land was within what was known as the oil district.  Since the opening of streets in all directions, I have lost trace of this land, but incline to the belief that it lies in the immediate vicinity of the Wilshire district.</P>
023.sgm:<P>My experience reminds me of Colonel John O. Wheeler's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>380</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On January 1st, A. J. King and R. H. Offutt began to publish a daily edition of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
023.sgm:<P>How modest was the status of the Post Office in 1869 may be gathered from the fact that the Postmaster had only one assistant, a boy, both together receiving fourteen hundred dollars in greenbacks, worth but a thousand dollars in gold.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henry Hammel, for years connected with the Bella Union, and a partner named Bremerman leased the United States Hotel on February 1st from Louis Mesmer; and in March, John King succeeded Winston &amp; King as manager of the Bella Union. King died in December, 1871.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1868-69, when heavy rains seriously interfered with bringing in the small supply of lumber at San Pedro, a cooperative society was proposed, to insure the importation each summer of enough supplies to tide the community over during the wintry weather.  Over one hundred persons, it was then estimated, had abandoned building, and many others were waiting for material to complete fences and repairs.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thanks to Contractor H. B. Tichenor's vigor in constructing the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad, public interest in the venture, by the beginning of 1869, had materially increased. In january, a vessel arrived with a locomotive and a steam pile-driver; and a few days later a schooner sailed into San Pedro with ties, sleepers and rails enough for three miles of the track.  Soon, also, the locomotive was running part of the way. The wet winter made muddy roads, and this led to the proposal to lay the tracks some eight or ten miles in the direction of Los Angeles, and there to transfer the freight to wagons.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>381</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Stearns Hall and the Plaza were amusement places in 1869. At the latter, in January, the so-called Paris Exposition Circus held forth; while Joe Murphy and Maggie Moore, who had just favored the passengers on the Orizaba, on coming south from San Francisco, with a show, trod the hall's more classic boards.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ice a quarter of an inch thick was formed here for several days during the third week in January, and butchers found it so difficult to secure fat cattle that good beef advanced to sixteen and a quarter cents a pound.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On January 20th, I purchased from Eugene Meyer the southern half of lots three and four in block five, fronting on Fort Street between Second and Third, formerly owned by William Buffum and J. F. Burns.  Meyer had paid one thousand dollars for one hundred and twenty feet front and three hundred and thirty feet depth; and when I bought half of this piece for one thousand dollars, it was generally admitted that I had paid all that it was worth.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Isaac Lankershim--father of J. B. Lankershim and Mrs. I. N. Van Nuys--who first visited California in 1854, came from San Francisco in 1869 and bought, for one hundred and fifteen thousand dollars, part of Andr&eacute;s Pico's San Fernando <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, which he stocked with sheep.  Levi Strauss &amp; Company, Scholle Brothers, L. and M. Sachs &amp; Company of San Francisco and others, were interested in this partnership, then known as the San Fernando Farm Association; but Lankershim was in control until about one year later, when Isaac Newton Van Nuys arrived from Monticello, where he had been merchandising, and was put permanently in charge of the ranch.  At this period Lankershim lived there, for he had not yet undertaken milling in Los Angeles.  A little later, Lankershim and Van Nuys successfully engaged in the raising of wheat, cultivating nearly sixty thousand acres, and consigning some of their harvests to Liverpool.  This fact recalls a heavy loss in the spring of 1881, when the <HI REND="italics">Parisian</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>382</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>J. B. Lankershim, owner of the well-known hotel bearing his name, after the death of his father made some very important investments in Los Angeles real estate, including the northwest corner of Broadway and Seventh Street, now occupied by the building devoted to Bullock's department store.</P>
023.sgm:<P>M. N. Newmark, a nephew of mine and President of the Newmark Grain Company, arrived in 1869, and clerked for H. Newmark &amp; Company until 1871, in which year he established a partnership with S. Grand in Compton, selling general merchandise.  This partnership lasted until 1878, when Newmark bought out Grand.  He finally disposed of the business in 1889 and, with D. K. Edwards, organized the firm of Newmark &amp; Edwards.  In 1895 Edwards sold out his interest.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Victor Ponet, a native of Belgium, and once Belgian Consul here, while traveling around the world, landed in California in 1867 and two years later came to Los Angeles. Attracted by the climate and Southern California's possible future, Ponet settled here, engaging first in the pioneer manufacture and importation of mirrors and picture frames; and before his retirement to live in Sherman, he had had experience both as undertaker and banker.<ANCHOR ID="n26-30">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-30">Died, February 9th, 1914.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>In 1869, General W. S. Rosecrans came south in the interest of the proposed San Diego &amp; Gila Railroad, never constructed. The General, as a result, took up land around Sausal Redondo, and there by the summer of 1869 so many people (who insisted that Rosecrans had appropriated public land) had squatted, that he was put to no end of trouble in ejecting them.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Though I have witnessed most of the progress in Southern California, it is still difficult to realize that so much could have been accomplished within the life-time of one man.  During 1868-69 only twenty-two hundred boxes of oranges were shipped from Los Angeles, while the Southern counties' crop of oranges and lemons for 1913-14 is estimated, I am told, at about twelve million boxes!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Due to the eight-day shindy marking the celebration of the Chinese New Year, demand for a more concentrated rumpus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>383</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The same month, residents, wishing a school in which German should be taught, and a gymnasium, petitioned the Common Council to acquire a lot in New High Street for the purpose.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About 1869, the Los Angeles Social Club which, to the best of my recollection, was the first of its kind in the city, was organized, with headquarters in the earliest building erected by I. W. Hellman, at the northwest corner of Los Angeles and Commercial streets. Among other pioneer members were Captain Cameron E. Thom, Tom Mott, Eugene Meyer, Sam and Charles Prager, Tom Rowan, I. W. and H. W. Hellman, S. Lazard, W. J. Brodrick, John Jones, Kaspare Cohn, A. C. Chauvin, M. and J. L. Morris, Leon Loeb, Sam Meyer, Dr. F. A. McDougal, B. Cohn and myself.  Somewhat later, the Club moved to the east side of Los Angeles Street, between Commercial and Aliso. Still later, it dissolved; and although it did not become the direct ancestor of any of the several well-known social organizations in the Los Angeles of to-day, I feel that it should be mentioned as having had the honor of being their precursor and model.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of social organizations, I may say that several Los Angeles clubs were organized in the early era of sympathy, tolerance and good feeling, when the individual was appreciated at his true worth and before the advent of men whose bigotry has sown intolerance and discord, and has made a mockery of both religion and professed ideals.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It must have been early in the sixties that Alexander Bell sold the southern end of his property to H. Heinsch, the saddler.  On February 23d, 1869, the directors of the San Pedro Railroad selected the Mike Madigan lot on Alameda Street, on a part of which the owner was conducting a livery stable, as the site for the depot in Los Angeles; and Heinsch having allowed the authorities to cut through his property, the extension of Commercial and Requena streets eastward from Los Angeles to Alameda was hastened.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Late on February 14th, the news was circulated of a shocking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>384</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The work of extending water mains along Fort, Spring and other streets progressed steadily until the Los Angeles Water Company struck a snag which again demonstrated the city's dependence.  Difficulty in coupling pipes called a halt, and the management had to send all the way to San Francisco for <HI REND="italics">a complete set of plumbers' tools!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the spring, Tileston, Emery &amp; Company, a Los Angeles and San Gabriel firm, brought south the first steam separator seen here and took contracts to thrash the farmers' grain. On June 3d they started the machine, and many persons went out to see it work.  Among features pointed out were precautions against fire from the engine, which the contractors declared made "everything perfectly safe."</P>
023.sgm:<P>From its inception, Wilmington sought, in one way or another, to rival Los Angeles, and in April threw down the gauntlet.  A. A. Polhamus, a workshop engineer of the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad, (in 1887, a manufacturer of straw wrapping paper somewhere between here and Wilmington,) had built a velocipede; and no sooner was it noised about than John Goller set to work to eclipse the achievement.  About one o'clock, therefore, on April 25th one of Goller's apprentices suddenly appeared ready to make the first experiment.  The streets were soon crowded and interest was at fever heat.  The young fellow straddled the wheels, moved about half a block, and then, at the junction of Main and Spring streets, executed a first-class somersault!  Immediately, however, other intrepid ones tried their skill, and the velocipede <illus entity="a023-0098" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Lobau Market Place, near the House in which Harris Newmark was Born</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0099" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Street in Loebau, Showing (right) Remnant of ancient City Wall</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0100" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Robert M. Widney</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0101" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Dr. Joseph Kurtz</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0102" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold"> Isaac N. Van Nuys</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0103" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Abraham Haas</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>385</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>By the first week in May, the velocipede craze had spread, crowds congregating daily on Main Street to see the antics of the boys; and soon H. F. Laurence announced the opening in Stearns's Hall, on May 14th, of a Velocipede School, where free instruction would be given: afternoons to ladies and evening, to men; and to further stimulate interest, Laurence announced a raffle on May 15th of "a splendid velocipede." By May 22d, J. Eastman had obtained permission of the Common Council to build a velocipede track on the historic old Plaza; but evidently he did not make use of the privilege, for a newspaper writer was soon giving vent to the following sarcasm:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Our City Fathers tried to make a little coin by leasing the Plaza as a velocipede circle or square; but, so far, the velocipedist has failed to connect.  I dare say the cost of cleaning up the place of weeds backed the poor soul out!</P>
023.sgm:<P>It happened in 1869 that Judson, the financier, and Belshaw, a practical miner, began working their lead mines in Cerro Gordo, in the Owens River country; and as the handling of the ore necessitated a great many wagons, Remi Nadeau obtained the contract for the transportation of the ore brought down to Wilmington and then shipped by boat to San Francisco. Remi had returned here about 1866, after having been in San Francisco for four or five years; and eventually he built the Nadeau Hotel at the corner of Spring and First streets, where A. Bouelle, father of Frank A. Bouelle, had formerly kept a little grocery store in an adobe.  This ore was loaded On to very large wagons, each drawn on level stretches by twelve or fourteen mules, but requiring as many as twenty or more mules while crossing the San Fernando Mountains-always regarded as one of the worst places on the route.  In order not to return with empty wagons, Nadeau purchased supplies of every description, which he sold to people along the route; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>386</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>After a time, the mines yielded so much ore that Nadeau found himself short of transportation facilities; but with the assistance of Judson &amp; Belshaw, as well as H. Newmark &amp; Company, he was enabled to increase his capacity until he operated thirty-two teams.  Los Angeles was then the southern terminus of his operations, although, during the building of the numerous Southern Pacific tunnels, his headquarters were removed to San Fernando, and still later, on the completion of the railroad, to Mojave.   Nadeau's assistant, Willard G. Halstead, son-in-law of H. H. W. Bent, handled most of the business when Nadeau was absent; A. E. Lott was foreman of teams and continually rode up and down the line of operations; while Thomas O'Brien was station-agent at Cerro Gordo.  The contract had been very profitable to Judson &amp; Belshaw; yet when the agreement expired on January 1st, 1872, they wished to renew it at a lower figure.  Nadeau, believing that no one else could do the work satisfactorily, refused the new terms offered; whereupon Judson &amp; Belshaw entered into an arrangement with William Osborn, a liveryman, who owned a few teams.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The season of 1871-72 was by no means a good one and barley was high, involving a great expense to Nadeau in feeding four or five hundred animals; and right there arose his chief difficulty.  He was in debt to H. Newmark &amp; Company and therefore proposed that he should turn his outfit over to us; but as we had unlimited confidence both in his integrity and in his ability, we prevailed on him to keep and use his equipment to the best advantage.  The suggestion was a fortunate one, for just at this time large deposits of borax were discovered in the mountains at Wordsworth, Nevada, and Nadeau commenced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>387</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:operations there with every promise of success.  In his work of hauling between Cerro Gordo and Los Angeles, Nadeau had always been very regular, his teams with rare exceptions arriving and leaving on schedule time; and even when, occasionally, a wagon did break down, the pig-lead would be unloaded without delay, tossed to the side of the trail and left there for the next train; a method that was perfectly safe, since thieves never disturbed the property. Osborn, on the other hand, soon proved uncertain and unreliable, his wagons frequently breaking down and causing other accidents and delays.  To protect themselves, Judson &amp; Belshaw were compelled to terminate their contract with him and reopen negotiations with Nadeau; but the latter then rejected their advances unless they would buy a half-interest in his undertaking and put up one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for the construction and maintenance of the numerous stations that had. become necessary for the proper development of his business.  Nadeau also made it a condition that H. Newmark &amp; Company be paid.  The stations already constructed or proposed were Mud Springs, Lang's Station, Mojave, Red Rock, Panamint, Indian Wells, Little Lake, Haiwee Meadows and Cartago.  Before these were built, the teamsters camped in the open, carrying with them the provisions necessary for man and beast.  Cartago was on the south side of Owens Lake, Cerro Gordo being on the north side, eighteen miles opposite; and between these points the miniature side-wheeler <HI REND="italics">Bessie</HI>
023.sgm:<P>An interesting fact or two in connection with Owens Lake may be recorded here.  Its water was so impregnated with borax and soda that no animal life could be sustained.  In the winter, the myriads of wild duck were worth talking about; but after they had remained near the lake for but a few days, they were absolutely unpalatable.  The teamsters and miners operating in the vicinity were in the habit of sousing their clothes in the lake for a few minutes, and when dried, the garments were found to be as clean as if they had passed through the <HI REND="italics">most</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>388</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Judson &amp; Belshaw were compelled to accept Nadeau's terms; and Nadeau returned from Nevada, organized in 1873 the Cerro Gordo Freighting Company, and operated more extensively than ever before until he withdrew, perhaps five years after the completion of the Southern Pacific Railroad and just before the petering out of the Cerro Gordo Mines.  In their palmy days, these deposits were the most extensive lead-producers of California; and while the output might not have been so remarkable in comparison with those of other lead mines in the world, something like eighty-five to ninety bars, each weighing about one hundred pounds, were produced there daily.  Most of this was shipped, as I have said, to San Francisco; and for a while, at least, from there to Swansea, Wales.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nadeau at one time was engaged in the industry of raising sugar-beets at the Nadeau <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On April 24th, 1869, under Mayor Joel Turner's administration, the Los Angeles Board of Education came into existence.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the early sixties, the City authorities promised to set out trees at the Plaza, providing neighboring property-owners would fence in the place; but even though Governor Downey supplied the fence, no trees were planted, and it was not until the spring of 1869 that any grew on the public square.  This loud demand for trees was less for the sake of the usual benefits than to hide the ugliness of the old water tank.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On May 9th, F. G. Walther issued the first number of the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Chronik</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The tenth of May was another red-letter day for the Pacific Coast, rejoicing, as it did, in the completion of the Central Pacific at Promontory Point in Utah.  There, with a silver hammer, Governor Stanford drove the historic gold spike into a tie of polished California laurel, thus consummating the vast work on the first trans-continental railroad.  This event <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>389</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>William J. Brodrick, after wandering in Peru and Chile, came to Los Angeles in 1869 and started as a stationer; then he opened an insurance office, and still later became interested in the Main Street Railway and the water <HI REND="italics">company</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Hacks and omnibuses first came into use in 1869.  Toward the end of May of that year, J. J. Reynolds, who had long been popular as a driver between Los Angeles and Wilmington, purchased a hack and started in business for himself, appealing to his "reputation for good driving and reliability" as a reasonable assurance that he would bring his patrons right side up to their scattered homes; and so much was he in demand, both in the city and its suburbs, that a competitor, J. Hewitt, in the latter part of June ordered a similar hack to come by steamer.  It arrived in due time and was chronicled as a "luxurious vehicle."  Hewitt regularly took up his stand in the morning in front of the Lafayette Hotel; and he also had an order slate at George Butler's livery-stable on Main Street.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During the sixties, Dr. T. H. Rose, who had relinquished the practice of medicine for the career of a pedagogue, commenced work as Principal of the Boys' Grammar School on Bath Street, and in 1869 was elected Superintendent of City Schools.  He held this office but about a year, although he did not resign from educational work here until 1873.  During his incumbency, he was Vice-Principal of the first Teachers' Institute ever held here, contributing largely toward the founding of the first high school and the general development of the schools prior to the time when Dr. Lucky, the first really professional teacher, assumed charge.  On leaving Los Angeles, Dr. Rose became Principal of the school at Healdsburg, Sonoma <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>390</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The retirement of Dr. Rose calls to mind a couple of years during which Los Angeles had no City School Superintendent. While Rose was Principal, a woman was in charge of the girls' department; and the relations between the schoolmaster and the schoolmistress were none too friendly.  When Dr. Rose became Superintendent, the schoolma'am instantly disapproved of the choice and rebelled; and there being no law which authorized the governing of Los Angeles schools in any other manner than by trustees, the new Superintendent had no authority over his female colleague.  The office of Superintendent of City Schools, consequently, remained vacant until 1873.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. James S. Crawford had the honor, as far as I am aware, of being one of the first regular dentists to locate in Los Angeles.  As an itinerant he had passed the winters of 1863, 1864 and 1865 in this city, afterward going east; and on his return to California in 1869 he settled in the Downey Block at Spring and Main streets, where he practiced until, on April 14th, 1912, he died in a Ventura County camp.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1864, the California Legislature, wishing to encourage the silk industry, offered a bounty of two hundred and fifty dollars for every plantation of five thousand mulberry trees of two years' growth, and a bounty of three hundred dollars for each one hundred thousand salable cocoons; and in three years an enormous number of mulberry trees, in various stages of growth, was registered.  Prominent among silk-growers was Louis Pr&eacute;vost, who rather early had established here an extensive mulberry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>391</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:tree nursery and near it a large cocoonery for the rearing of silk worms; and had planned, in 1869, the creation of a colony of silk-worms whose products would rival even those of his native <HI REND="italics">belle France</HI>
023.sgm:. The California Silk Center Association of Los Angeles was soon formed, and four thousand acres of the <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The Silk Center Association, therefore, failed; but the Southern California Colony Association bought all the land, paying for it something like three dollars and a half an acre.  To many persons, the price was quite enough: old Louis Robidoux had long refused to list his portion for taxes, and some one had described much of the acreage as so dry that even coyotes, in crossing, took along their canteens for safety!  A town called at first Jurupa, and later Riverside, was laid out; a fifty thousand-dollar ditch diverted the Santa Ana River to a place where Nature had failed to arrange for its flowing; and in a few months a number of families had settled beside the artificial waterway.  Riversiders long had to travel back and forth to Los Angeles for most of their supplies (a stage, still in existence, being used by ordinary passengers), and this made a friendly as well as profitable business relation with the older and larger town; but experiments soon showing that oranges could grow in the arid soil, Riverside in course of time had something to sell as well as to buy.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Who was more familiar both to the youth of the town and to grown-ups than Nicolas Martinez, in summer the purveyor of cooling ice cream, in winter the vender of hot <HI REND="italics">tamales!</HI>
023.sgm:  From <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>392</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:morning till night, month in and month out during the sixties and seventies, Martinez paced the streets, his dark skin made still swarthier in contrast to his white costume-a shirt, scarcely tidy, together with pantaloons none too symmetrical and hanging down in generous folds at the waist.  On his head, in true native fashion, he balanced in a small hooped tub what he had for sale; he spoke with a pronounced Latin accent, and his favorite method of announcing his presence was to bawl out his wares.  The same receptacle, resting upon a round board with an opening to ease the load and covered with a bunch of cloths, served both to keep the <HI REND="italics">tamales</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>393</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII<LB>COMING OF THE IRON HORSE<LB>1869</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>THE Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad continued in 1869 be the local theme of most importance, although its construction did not go on as rapidly as had been promised.  The site for a depot, it is true, had been selected; but by June 14th, only six miles were finished.  Farmers were loud in complaints that they had been heavily taxed, and in demanding that the road be rushed to completion, in order to handle the prospectively-large grain crop.  Additional gangs were therefore employed, and by the twentieth of July, seven more miles of track had been laid.  In the meantime, the Sunday School at Compton enjoyed the first excursion, the members making themselves comfortable on benches and straw in some freight cars.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As the work on the railroad progressed, stages, in addition to those regularly running through from Los Angeles to Wilmington, began connecting with the trains at the temporary terminus of the railroad.  People went down to Wilmington to see the operations, not merely on the track, but in the machine shops where the cars for freight, express, baggage, smoking and passenger service (designed by A. A. Polhamus, the machinist) were being built under the superintendence of Samuel Atkinson, who had been brought West by the San Francisco &amp; San Jos&eacute; Valley Railroad, because of a reputation for railroad experience enjoyed by few, if by any other persons on the Coast.  The Company also had a planing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>394</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>By the first of August, both the railroad and connecting stages were advertising Sunday excursions to the beach, emphasizing the chance to travel part of the way by the new means of transit.  Curiously, however, visitors were allowed to enjoy the sea-breezes but a short time: arriving at Wilmington about ten or half-past, they were compelled to start back for Los Angeles by four in the afternoon.  Many resorters still patronized the old service; and frequently the regular stages, racing all the way up from the steamer, would actually reach the city half an hour earlier than those transferring the passengers from the railway terminus which was extended by August 1st to a point within four miles of town.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When eighteen miles had been finished, it was reported that General Stoneman and his post band would make an excursion on the first train, accompanied by General Banning and leading citizens of the town; but strong opposition to the Company laying its tracks through the center of "The Lane," now Alameda Street, having developed, the work was stopped by injunction.  The road had been constructed to a point opposite the old Wolfskill home, then "far from town," and until the matter was settled, passengers and freight were unloaded there.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Great excitement prevailed here shortly after sundown on Wednesday evening, August 21st, when the mail-stage which had left for Gilroy but a short time before came tearing back to town, the seven or eight passengers excitedly shouting that they had been robbed.  The stage had proceeded but two miles from Los Angeles when four masked highwaymen stepped into the road and ordered, "Hands up!"  Among the passengers was the well-known and popular Ben Truman who, having learned by previous experience just what to do in such a ticklish emergency and "being persuaded that the two barrels of cold steel had somewhat the porportions of a railway tunnel," sadly but promptly unrolled one hundred and eighty dollars in bills, and quite as sadly deposited, in addition, his favorite chronometer.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>395</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On the same evening, at high tide, the little steamer christened <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In a previous chapter I have given an account of Lady Franklin's visit to San Pedro and Los Angeles, and of the attention shown her.  Her presence awakened new interest in the search for her lamented husband, and paved the way for the sympathetic reception of any intelligence likely to clear up the mystery.  No little excitement, therefore, was occasioned eight years later by the finding of a document at San Buenaventura that seemed "like a voice from the dead." According to the story told, as James Daly (of the lumber firm of Daly &amp; Rodgers) was walking on the beach on August 30th, he found a sheet of paper a foot square, much mutilated but bearing, in five or six different languages, a still legible request to forward the memoranda to the nearest British Consul or the Admiralty at London.  Every square inch of the paper was covered with data relating to Sir John Franklin and his party, concluding with the definite statement that Franklin had died on June 11th, 1847. Having been found within a week of the time that the remnant of Dr. Hall's party, which went in search of the explorer, had arrived home in Connecticut with the announcement that they had discovered seven skeletons of Franklin's men, this document, washed up on the Pacific Coast, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>396</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1869, the long-familiar adobe of Jos&eacute; Ant&oacute;nio Carrillo was razed to make way for what, for many years, was the leading hotel of Los Angeles.  This was the Pico House, in its decline known as the National Hotel, which, when erected on Main Street opposite the Plaza at a cost of nearly fifty thousand dollars, but emphasized in its contrasting showiness the ugliness of the neglected square.  Some thirty-five thousand dollars were spent in furnishing the eighty-odd rooms, and no little splurge was made that guests could there enjoy the luxuries of both gas and baths!  In its palmy days, the Pico House welcomed from time to time travelers of wide distinction; while many a pioneer, among them not a few newly-wedded couples now permanently identified with Los Angeles or the Southland, look back to the hostelry as the one surviving building fondly associated with the olden days.  Charles Knowlton was an early manager; and he was succeeded by Dunham &amp; Schieffelin.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Competition in the blacking of boots enlivened the fall, the Hotel Lafayette putting boldly in printer's ink the question, "Do You Want to Have Your Boots Blacked in a Cool, Private Place?"  This challenge was answered with the following proclamation:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Champion  Boot-Black!  Boots  Blacked  Neater  and Cheaper than Anywhere Else in the City, at the <HI REND="italics">Blue Wing</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Brickmaking had become, by September, quite an important industry.  Joe Mullally, whose brickyard was near the Jewish Cemetery, then had two kilns with a capacity of two hundred and twenty-five thousand; and in the following month he made over five hundred thousand brick.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In course of time, the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad was completed to the Madigan lot, which remained for several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>420</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>397</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>I have spoken of J. J. Reynolds's early enterprise and the competition that he evoked. Toward the end of July, he went up to San Francisco and outdid Hewitt by purchasing a handsome omnibus, suitable for hotel service and also adapted to the needs of families or individuals clubbing together for picnics and excursions. This gave the first impetus to the use of hotel buses, and by the first Sunday in September, when the cars from Wilmington rolled in bringing passengers from the steamer <HI REND="italics">Orizaba</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Judge W. G. Dryden, so long a unique figure here, died on September 10th and A. J. King succeeded him as County Judge.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A notable visit to Los Angeles was that of Secretary William H. Seward who, in 1869, made a trip across the Continent, going as far north as Alaska and as far south as Mexico, and being everywhere enthusiastically received.  When Seward left San Francisco for San Diego, about the middle of September, he was accompanied by Frederick Seward and wife (his son and daughter-in-law), General W. S. Rosecrans, General Morton C. Hunter, Colonel Thomas Sedgwick and Senator S. B. Axtell; and the news of their departure having been telegraphed ahead, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>398</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:many people went down to greet them on the arrival of the steamer <HI REND="italics">Orizaba</HI>
023.sgm:.  After the little steamer <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, the Common Council had resolved to extend the hospitality of the City to the distinguished party; and by September 19th, posters proclaimed that Seward and his party were coming and that citizens generally would be afforded an opportunity to participate in a public reception at the Bella Union on September 21st.  A day in advance, therefore, the Mayor and a Committee from the Council set out for Anaheim, where they met the distinguished statesman on his way, whence the party jogged along leisurely in a carriage and four until they arrived at the bank of the Los Angeles River; and there Seward and his friends were met by other officials and a cavalcade of eighty citizens led by the military band of Drum Barracks.  The guests alighted at the Bella Union and in a few minutes a rapidly-increasing crowd was calling loudly for Mr. Seward.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Secretary, being welcomed on the balcony by Mayor Joel H. Turner, said that he had been laboring under mistakes all his life: he had visited Rome to witness celebrated ruins, but he found more interesting ruins in the Spanish Missions (great cheers); he had journeyed to Switzerland to view its glaciers, but upon the Pacific Coast he had seen rivers of ice two hundred and fifty feet in breadth, five miles long and God knows how high (more cheers); he had explored Labrador to examine the fisheries, but in Alaska he found that the fisheries came to him (Hear! hear! and renewed applause); he had gone to Burgundy to view the most celebrated vineyards of the world, but the vineyards of California far surpassed them all!  (Vociferous and deafening hurrahs, and tossing of bouquets.)</P>
023.sgm:<P>The next day the Washington guests and their friends were shown about the neighborhood, and that evening Mr. Seward made another and equally happy speech to the audience drawn to the Bella Union by the playing of the band.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>399</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Secretary Seward remarked that he found people here agitated upon the question of internal improvements-for everywhere people wanted railroads.  Californians, if they were patient, would yet witness a railroad through the North, another by the Southern route, still another by the Thirty-fifth parallel, a fourth by the central route, and lastly, as the old plantation song goes, one "down the middle!"  California needed more population, and railroads were the means by which to get people.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Finally, Mr. Seward spoke of the future prospects of the United States, saying much of peculiar interest in the light of later developments.  We were already great, he affirmed; but a nation satisfied with its greatness is a nation without a future.  We should expand, and as mightily as we could; until at length we had both the right and the power to move our armies anywhere in North America.  As to the island lying almost within a stone's throw of our mainland, ought we not to possess Cuba, too?</P>
023.sgm:<P>Other toasts, such as "The Mayor and Common Council," ``The Pioneers,    The Ancient Hospitality of California ,, "The Press," "The Wine Press" and "Our Wives and Sweethearts," were proposed and responded to, much good feeling prevailing notwithstanding the variance in political sentiments represented by guests and hosts; and everyone went home, in the small hours of the morning, pleased with the manner in which Los Angeles had received her illustrious visitors.  The next day, Secretary Seward and party left for the North by carriages, rolling away toward Santa B&aacute;rbara and the mountains so soon to be invaded by the puffing, screeching iron horse.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>400</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Recollecting this banquet to Secretary Seward, I may add an amusing fact of a personal nature.  Eugene Meyer and I arranged to go to the dinner together, agreeing that we were to meet at the store of S. Lazard &amp; Company, almost directly opposite the Bella Union.  When I left Los Angeles in 1867, evening dress was uncommon; but in New York I had become accustomed to its more frequent use.  Rather naturally, therefore, I donned my swallowtail; Meyer, however, I found in a business suit and surprised at my query as to whether he intended going home to dress?  Just as we were, we walked across the street and, entering the hotel, whom should we meet but ex-Mayor John G. Nichols, wearing a grayish linen duster, popular in those days, that extended to his very ankles; while Pio and Andres Pico came attired in blue coats with big brass buttons.  Meyer, observing the Mayor's outfit, facetiously asked me if I still wished him to go home and dress according to Los Angeles fashion; whereupon I drew off my gloves, buttoned up my overcoat and determined to sit out the banquet with my claw-hammer thus concealed.  Mr. Seward, it is needless to say, was faultlessly attired.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Spanish archives were long neglected, until M. Kremer was authorized to overhaul and arrange the documents; and even then it was not until September 16th that the Council built a vault for the preservation of the official papers.  Two years later, Kremer discovered an original proclamation of peace between the United States and Mexico.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elsewhere I allude to the slow development of Fort Street. For the first time, on the twenty-fourth of September street lamps burned there, and that was from six to nine months after darkness had been partially banished from Nigger Alley, Los Angeles, Aliso and Alameda streets.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Supplementing what I have said of the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad depot: it was built on a lot fronting three hundred feet on Alameda Street and having a depth of one hundred and twenty feet, its situation being such that, after the extension of Commercial Street, the structure occupied the southwest corner of the two highways.  Really, it was more of a freight-shed <illus entity="a023-0104" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Phineas Banning, about 1869</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0105" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Henri Penelon, in his Studio</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0106" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Carreta, Earliest Mode of Transportation</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0107" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Alameda Street Depot and Train, Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>401</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>About this time the real estate excitement had become still more intense.  In anticipation of the erection of this depot, Commercial Street property boomed and the first realty agents of whom I have any recollection appeared on the scene, Judge R. M. Widney being among them.  I remember that two lots--one eighty by one hundred and twenty feet in size at the northwest corner of First and Spring streets, and the other having a frontage of only twenty feet on New Commercial Street, adjacent to the station--were offered simultaneously at twelve hundred dollars each.  Contrary, no doubt, to what he would do to-day, the purchaser chose the Commercial Street lot, believing that location to have the better future.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Telegraph rates were not very favorable, in 1869, to frequent or verbose communication.  Ten words sent from Los Angeles to San Francisco cost one dollar and a half; and fifty cents additional was asked for the next five words.  After a while, there was a reduction of twenty-five per cent. in the cost of the first ten words, and fifty per cent. on the second five.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Twenty-four hundred voters registered in Los Angeles this year.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the fall, William H. Spurgeon founded Santa Ana some five miles beyond Anaheim on a tract of about fifty acres, where a number of the first settlers experimented in growing flax.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It is not clear to me just when the rocky Arroyo Seco began to be popular as a resort, but I remember going there on picnics as early as 1857.  By the late sixties, when Santa Monica Ca&ntilde;on also appealed to the lovers of sylvan life, the Arroyo had become known as Sycamore Grove--a name doubtless suggested by the numerous sycamores there--and Clois F.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>402</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Henrickson had opened an establishment including a little "hotel," a dancing-pavilion, a saloon and a shooting-alley. Free lunch and free beer were provided for the first day, and each Sunday thereafter in the summer season an omnibus ran every two hours from Los Angeles to the Sycamores. After some years, John Rumph and wife succeeded to the management, Frau Rumph being a popular <HI REND="italics">Wirtin</HI>
023.sgm:<P>James Miller Guinn, who had come to California in November, 1863 and had spent several years in various counties of the State digging for gold and teaching school, drifted down to Los Angeles in October and was soon engaged as Principal of the public school at the new town of Anaheim, remaining there in that capacity for twelve years, during part of which time he also did good work on the County School Board.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Under the auspices of the French Benevolent Society and toward the end of October, the corner-stone of the French Hospital built on City donation lots, and for many years and even now one of the most efficient institutions of our city, was laid with the usual ceremonies.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On October 9th, the first of the new locomotives arrived at Wilmington and a week later made the first trial trip, with a baggage and passenger car. Just before departure a painter was employed to label the engine and decorate it with a few scrolls; when it was discovered, too late, that the artist had spelled the name: LOS ANGELOS.  On October 23d, two lodges of Odd Fellows used the railway to visit Bohen Lodge at Wilmington, returning on the first train, up to that time, run into Los Angeles at midnight.</P>
023.sgm:<P>October 26th was a memorable day, for on that date the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad Company opened the line to the public and invited everybody to enjoy a free excursion to the harbor.  Two trains were dispatched each way, the second consisting of ten cars; and not less than fifteen hundred persons made the round trip.  Unfortunately, it was very warm <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>403</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Judge H. K. S. O'Melveny, who first crossed the Plains from Illinois on horseback in 1849, came to Los Angeles with his family in November, having already served four years as a Circuit Judge, following his practice of law in Sacramento. He was a brother-in-law of L. J. Rose, having married, in 1850, Miss Annie Wilhelmina Rose.  Upon his arrival, he purchased the southwest comer of Second and Fort streets, a lot one hundred and twenty by one hundred and sixty-five feet in size, and there he subsequently constructed one of the fine houses of the period; which was bought, some years later, by Jotham Bixby for about forty-five hundred dollars, after it had passed through various hands.  Bixby lived in it for a number of years and then resold it.  In 1872, O'Melveny was elected Judge of Los Angeles County; and in 1887, he was appointed Superior Judge. H. W. O'Melveny, his second son, came from the East with his parents, graduating in time from the Los Angeles High School and the State University.  Now he is a distinguished attorney and occupies a leading position as a public-spirited citizen, and a patron of the arts and sciences.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In his very readable work, <HI REND="italics">From East Prussia to the Golden Gate</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Trains on the new railway began to run regularly on November 1st; and there still exists one of the first time-tables, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>404</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>After the formal opening of the railroad, a permanent staff of officers, crew and mechanicians was organized.  The first Superintendent was H. W. Hawthorne, who was succeeded by E. E. Hewitt, editor of the <HI REND="italics">Wilmington Journal</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The first advertised public excursion on the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad after its opening was a trip to Wilmington and around San Pedro Harbor, arranged for November 5th, 1869. The cars, drawn by the locomotive <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the late seventies, a Portuguese named Fayal settled near what is now the corner of Sixth and Front streets, San Pedro; and one Lindskow took up his abode in another shack <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>405</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Probably the first attempt to organize a fire company for Los Angeles was made in 1869, when a meeting was called on Saturday evening, November 6th, at Buffum's Saloon, to consider the matter.  A temporary organization was formed, with Henry Wartenberg as President; W. A. Nix, Vice-President; George M. Fall, Secretary; and John H. Gregory, Treasurer. An initiation fee of two dollars and a half, and monthly dues of twenty-five cents, were decided upon; and J. F. Burns, B. Katz, Emil Harris, George Pridham, E. B. Frink, C. D. Hathaway, P. Thompson, O. W. Potter, C. M. Small and E. C. Phelps were charter members.  A committee appointed to canvass for subscriptions made little progress, and the partial destruction of Rowan's American Bakery, in December, demonstrating the need of an engine and hose cart, brought out sharp criticism of Los Angeles's penuriousness.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About the middle of November, Daniel Desmond, who had come on October 14th of the preceding year, opened a hat store on Los Angeles Street near New Commercial, widely advertising the enterprise as a pioneer one and declaring, perhaps unconscious of any pun, that he proposed to fill a want that had "long been felt."  The steamer Orizaba, which was to bring down Desmond's goods, as ill luck would have it left half of his stock lying on the San Francisco pier; and the opening, so much heralded, had to be deferred several weeks. As late as 1876, he was still the only exclusive hatter here. Desmond died on January 23d, 1903, aged seventy years, and was succeeded by his son, C. C. Desmond.  Another son, D. J. Desmond, is the well-known contractor.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the close of November, Joseph Joly, a Frenchman, opened the Chartres Coffee Factory on Main Street opposite the Plaza, and was the pioneer in that line.  He delivered to both stores and families, and for a while seemed phenomenally successful; but one fine morning in December it was discovered that the "Jolly Joseph" had absconded, leaving behind numerous unpaid bills.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>406</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The first marble-cutter to open a workshop in Los Angeles was named Miller.  He came toward the end of 1869 and established himself in the Downey Block.  Prior to Miller's coming, all marble work was brought from San Francisco or some source still farther away, and the delay and expense debarred many from using that stone even for the pious purpose of identifying graves.</P>
023.sgm:<P>With the growth of Anaheim as the business center of the country between the new San Gabriel and the Santa Ana rivers, sentiment had been spreading in favor of the division of Los Angeles County; and at the opening of the Legislature of 1886-70, Anaheim had its official representative in Sacramento, ready to present the claims of the little German settlement and its thriving neighbors.  The person selected for this important embassy was Major Max von Stroble; and he inaugurated his campaign with such sagacity and energy that the bill passed the Assembly and everything pointed to an early realization of the scheme.  It was not, however, until Los Angeles awoke to the fact that the proposed segregation meant a decided loss, that opposition developed in the Senate and the whole matter was held up.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stroble thereupon sent posthaste to his supporters for more cash, and efforts were made to get the stubborn Senate to reconsider.  Doubtless somebody else had a longer purse than Stroble; for in the end he was defeated, and the German's dream did not come true until long after he had migrated to the realms that know no subdivisions.  One of the arguments used in favor of the separation was that it took two days's time, and cost six dollars, for the round trip to the Los Angeles Courthouse; while another contention then regarded as of great importance was that the one coil of hose pipe owned by the County was kept at Los Angeles! Stroble, by-the-way, desired to call the new county Anaheim.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Major von Stroble was a very interesting character. He was a German who had stood shoulder to shoulder with Carl Schurz and Franz Sigel in the German Revolution of 1848, and who, after having taken part in the adventures of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>407</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The last grand effort of this adventurous spirit was the attempt to sell Santa Catalina Island.  Backed by the owners, Stroble sailed for Europe and opened headquarters near Threadneedle Street in London.  In a few weeks he had almost effected the sale, the contract having been drawn and the time actually set for the following day when the money-a cool two hundred thousand pounds-was to be paid; but no Stroble kept tryst to carry out his part of the transaction.  Only the evening before, alone and unattended, the old man had died in his room at the very moment when Fortune, for the first time, was to smile upon him!  Eighteen or twenty years later, Catalina was sold for much less than the price once agreed upon.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>408</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII<LB>THE LAST OF THE VIGILANTES<LB>1870</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>AS I have somewhere related, I began buying hides as far back as 1855, but it was not until 1870 that this branch of our business assumed such importance as to require more convenient quarters.  Then we bought a place on the southeast corner of Alameda and Commercial streets, facing sixty feet on Alameda and having a depth of one hundred and sixty-five feet, where we constructed a hide-house and erected a press for baling.  We paid P. Beaudry eleven hundred dollars for the lot.  The relatively high price shows what the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad depot had done for that section.  In the days when hides were sent by sailing vessels to the East, a different method of preparing them for shipment was in vogue.  The wet hides having been stretched, small stakes were driven into the ground along the edge of, and through the skins, thus holding them in place until they had dried and expanding them by about one-third; in this condition they were forwarded loose.  Now that transportation is more rapid and there are tanneries in California, all hides are handled wet.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1870, business life was centered on Los Angeles Street between Commercial and Arcadia; and all the hotels were north of First Street.  Fort Street ended in a little bluff at a spot now between Franklin and First streets.  Spring Street was beginning to take on new life, and yet there was but one gas lamp along the entire roadway, though many were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>409</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in January, a number of ladies of this city met and, through the exertions of Mrs. Rosa Newmark, wife of Joseph Newmark, formed the Ladies' Hebrew Benevolent Society.  Mrs. Newmark, as was once pointed out in a notable open-air meeting of women's clubs (to which I elsewhere refer), never accepted any office in the Society; but for years she was untiring in her efforts in the cause of charity.  The first officers were: President, Mrs. W. Kalisher; Vice-President, Mrs. Harris Newmark; Treasurer, Mrs. John Jones; Secretary, Mrs. B. Katz; and Collector, Mrs. A. Baer.  Three Counselors--Henry Wartenberg, I. M. Hellman and myself--occasionally met with the ladies to advise them.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Aside from the fact of its importance as the pioneer ladies' benevolent organization instituted in Los Angeles, the Society found a much-needed work to do.  It was then almost impossible to obtain nurses, and the duty devolved on members to act in that capacity, where such assistance was required, whether the afflicted were rich or poor.  It was also their function to prepare the dead for interment, and to keep proper vigil over the remains until the time of burial.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During the year 1869 or 1870, as the result of occasional gatherings in the office of Dr. Joseph Kurtz, the Los Angeles Turnverein was organized with eleven members--Emil Harris leading in the movement, assisted by Dr. Kurtz, Ed. Preuss, Lorenzo Leck, Philip and Henry Stoll, Jake Kuhrts, Fred Morsch, C. C. Lips and Isaac Cohn.  Dr. Kurtz was elected President.  They fraternized for a while at Frau Wiebecke's Garden, on the west side of Alameda near First Street, about where the Union Hardware and Metal Company now stands; and there, while beer and wine were served in the open air, the Teutons gratified their love of music and song.  Needing for their gymnastics more enclosed quarters, the Turnverein rented of Kalisher &amp; Wartenberg the barn on Alameda Street between Ducommon and First, used as a hide-house; and in that rough-boarded shack, whose none too aromatic odors are still <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>410</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:a souvenir to many a pioneer resident, the <HI REND="italics">Turners</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The Post Office was moved this year from the comer of North Main and Market streets to the middle of Temple Block, but even there the facilities were so inadequate that Wells Fargo &amp; Company, in June, put up a letter-box at the corner of Main and Commercial streets which was emptied but once a day, at four o'clock in the afternoon, save on steamer days when letters were taken out at half-past nine.  One other box was at the sole railroad depot, then at the corner of Alameda and Commercial streets.  The Post Office at that time was also so miserably illuminated that citizens fumbled about to find their letter-boxes, and ladies were timid about entering the building at night.  Postmasters were allowed small reserves; and for some time in 1870 the Los Angeles Post Office was entirely out of one- and two-cent stamps.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In February, the way was prepared for the first city directory when the houses of Los Angeles were ordered to be numbered, a public discussion of the need for a directory having taken place the previous December.  When the collaborators began to collect names and other data, there were many refusals to answer questions; but the little volume of seventy pages was finally published in 1871.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Until 1870 Los Angeles had no bookbinder, all binding having had to be sent to San Francisco; and a call was then sent out to induce a journeyman to settle here.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On the fourteenth of February, Phineas Banning was married to Miss Mary, daughter of Colonel J. H. Hollister--the affair being the consummation of a series of courtly addresses in which, as I have related, it was my pleasurable privilege to play an intermediary part.  As might be expected of one who was himself an experienced and generous entertainer, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>411</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>About this time, Colonel Isaac R. Dunkelberger came to Los Angeles to live, having just finished his fifth year in the army in Arizona, following a long service under Northern banners during the Civil War.  While here, the Colonel met and courted Miss Mary Mallard, daughter of Judge Mallard; and on February 26th, 1867, they were married. For eight years, from March, 1877, Dunkelberger was Postmaster. .He died on December 5th, 1904, survived by his widow and six children.  While writing about this estimable family, it occurs to me that Mary, then a little girl, was one of the guests at my wedding.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Frank Lecouvreur, who was Surveyor of Los Angeles County from 1870 until 1873, was a native of East Prussia and like his predecessor, George Hansen, came to California by way of the Horn.  For a while, as I have related, he was my bookkeeper.  In 1877, he married Miss Josephine Rosanna Smith who had renounced her vows as a nun.  Ten years later he suffered a paralytic stroke and was an invalid until his death, on January 17th, 1901.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Once introduced, the telegraph gradually grew in popularity; but even in 1870, when the Western Union company had come into the field and was operating as far as the Coast, service was anything but satisfactory.  The poles between Los Angeles and San Francisco had become rotten and often fell, dragging the wires with them, and interrupting communication with the North.  There were no wires, up to <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
023.sgm:<P>As the result of real estate purchases and exchanges in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>412</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:late sixties and early seventies between Dr. J. S. Griffin, Phineas Banning, B. D. Wilson, P. Beaudry and others, a fruit-growing colony was planned in April, when it was proposed to take in some seventeen hundred and fifty acres of the best part of the San Pasqual <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A rather uncommon personality for about thirty years was Fred Dohs, who came from Germany when he was twenty-three and engaged in trading horses.  By 1870 he was managing a barber shop near the Downey Block, and soon after was conducting a string band.  For many years, the barber-musician furnished the music for most of the local dances and entertainments, at the same time (or until prices began to be cut) maintaining his shop, where he charged two bits for a shave and four bits for a hair-cut.  During his prosperity, Dohs acquired property, principally on East First Street.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The first foot-bridge having finally succumbed to the turbulent waters of the erratic Los Angeles River, the great flood of 1867-68 again called the attention of our citizens to the necessity of establishing permanent and safe communication between the two sides of the stream; and this agitation resulted in the construction by Perry &amp; Woodworth of the first fairly substantial bridge at the foot of the old Aliso Road, now Macy Street, at an outlay of some twenty thousand dollars.  Yet, notwithstanding the great necessity that had always existed for this improvement, it is my recollection that it was not consummated until about 1870.  Like its poor little predecessor carried away by the uncontrolled waters, the more dignified structure was broken up by a still later flood, and the pieces <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>436</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>413</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>'Way back in the formative years of Los Angeles, there were suddenly added to the constellation of noteworthy local characters two jovial, witty, good-for-nothing Irishmen who from the first were pals.  The two were known as Dan Kelly and Micky Free.  Micky's right name was Dan Harrington; but I never knew Kelly to go under any other appellation. When sober, which was not very frequent, Dan and Micky were good-natured, jocular and free from care, and it mattered not to either of them whether the morrow might find them well-fed and at liberty or in the jail then known as the Hotel de Burns: "sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof" was the only philosophy they knew.  They were boon companions when free from drink; but when saturated, they immediately fought like demons.  They were both in the toils quite ten months of the year, while during the other two months they carried a hod!  Of the two, Micky was the most irredeemable, and in time he became such a nuisance that the authorities finally decided to ship him out of the country and bought him a ticket to Oregon.  Micky got as far as San Pedro, where he traded his ticket for a case of delirium tremens; but he did something more--he broke his leg and was bundled back to Los Angeles, renewing here the acquaintance of both the bartender and the jailer.  Some years later, he astonished the town by giving up drink and entering the Veterans's Home.  When he died, they gave him a soldier's honors and a soldier's grave.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1870, F. Bonshard imported into Los Angeles County some five or six hundred blooded Cashmere goats; and about the same time or perhaps even earlier, J. E. Pleasants conducted at Los Nietos a similar enterprise, at one time having four or five hundred of a superior breed, the wool of which brought from twenty-five to thirty-five cents a pound.  The goat-fancying Pleasants also had some twelve hundred Angoras.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On June 1st, Henry Hamilton, who two years before had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>414</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:resumed the editorship of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:, then a weekly, issued the first number of the <HI REND="italics">Daily Star</HI>
023.sgm:.  He had taken into partnership George W. Barter, who three months later started the <HI REND="italics">Anaheim Gazette</HI>
023.sgm:.  In 1872, Barter was cowhided by a woman, and a committee formally requested the editor to vamose the town!  Barter next bought the <HI REND="italics">Daily Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>At the beginning of this decade, times in Arizona were really very bad.  H. Newmark &amp; Company, who had large amounts due them from merchants in that Territory, were not entirely easy about their outstanding accounts, and this prompted Kaspare Cohn to visitour customers there.  I urged him to consider the dangers of the road and to abandon his project; but he was determined to go.  The story of the trip, in the light of present methods and the comparative safety of travel, is an interesting one, and I shall relate his experiences as he described them to me.</P>
023.sgm:<P>He started on a Saturday, going by stage (in preference to buckboard) from Los Angeles to San Bernardino, and from there rode, as the only passenger, with a stage-driver named Brown, passing through Frink's Ranch, Gilman's, White River, Agua Caliente, Indian Wells, Toros, Dos Palmas. Chuckawalla, Mule Springs and Willow Springs.  H. Newmark &amp; Company had forwarded, on a prairie schooner driven by Jesse Allen of Los Angeles, a considerable amount of merchandise which it was their intention should be sold in Arizona, and the freighting charge upon which was to be twelve and a half cents per pound.  In Chuckawalla, familiarly called Chucky Valley, the travelers overtook Allen and the stock of goods; and this meeting in that lonesome region was the cause of such mutual rejoicing that Kaspare provided as abundant an entertainment as his limited stores would permit.  Resuming their journey from Chuckawalla, the driver and his companion soon left Allen and his cumbersome load in the rear.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It was near Granite Wash, as they were jogging along in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>438</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>415</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Somewhere between Granite Wash and Wickenberg, a peculiar rattling revealed a near-by snake, whereupon Kaspare jumped out and shot the reptile, securing the tail and rattles.  Changing horses or resting at Tyson's Wells, McMullen's and Cullen's  Station, they arrived the next night at Wickenberg, the location of the Vulture Mines, where Kaspare called upon the Superintendent--a man named Peoples--to collect a large amount they owed us.  Half of the sum was paid in gold bars at the rate of sixteen dollars per ounce, while the other half we lost.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A niece of M. Kremer lived in Wickenberg, where her husband was in business.  She suffered a great deal from headaches, and a friend had recommended, as a talisman, the possession of snake rattles.  Kaspare, with his accustomed gallantry, produced the specimen which he had obtained and gave it to the lady; and it is to be hoped that she was as permanently relieved of her pain as so many nowadays are cured of imaginary troubles by no more substantial superstitions.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Making short stops at Wilson's Station, Antelope Station, Kirkland Valley, Skull Valley and Mint Valley, Kaspare reached Prescott, some four hundred and thirty miles from San Bernardino, and enquired after Dan Hazard, the ex-Mayor's brother and one of our customers--who died about the middle of the eighties--and learned that he was then on his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>439</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>416</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Kaspare remained in Prescott nearly four weeks.  Between the collections that he made and the money which he received for the consigned merchandise, he had about thirteen thousand dollars in currency to bring back with him.  With this amount of money on his person, the return trip was more than ever fraught with danger.  Mindful of this added peril, Kaspare kept the time of his departure from Prescott secret, no one, with the exception of Bashford, being in his confidence.  He prepared very quietly; and at the last moment, one Saturday afternoon, he slipped into the stage and started for California.  Brown was again his companion as far as Ehrenberg.  There he met Frank Ganahl and Charles Strong, both soon to become Southern Californians; and knowing them very well, their companionship contributed during the rest of the trip not only pleasure but an agreeable feeling of security.  His arrival in Los Angeles afforded me much relief, and the story of his adventures and success added more than a touch of interest.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The first street-sprinklers in Los Angeles were owned and operated about the middle of July by T. W. McCracken, who was allowed by the Council to call upon residents along the route for weekly contributions to keep the water wagon going.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have told of the establishing of Hellman, Temple &amp; Company as bankers.  In September, the first-named bought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>417</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>With the commencement of autumn, when the belief prevailed that little or nothing could be done toward persuading the Common Council to beautify the Plaza, a movement to lay out and embellish the five-acre tract bounded by Hill and Olive, and Fifth and Sixth streets, met with such favor that, by the first week in October, some eight hundred dollars had been subscribed for the purpose.  On November 19th a public meeting was' held, presided over by Prudent Beaudry, Major H. M. Mitchell serving as Secretary; and it was suggested to call the proposed square the Los Angeles Park, and to enclose it, at a cost of about five hundred dollars, with a fence.  Another two hundred dollars was soon made up; and the services of L. Carpenter, who offered to plow the land prior to sowing grass-seed, were accepted in lieu of a subscription.  Both George Lehman and Elijah Workman showed their public spirit by planting what have since become the largest trees there. Sometime later, the name was changed to Central Park, by which it is still known.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The first hackney coach ever built in Los Angeles was turned out in September by John Goller for J. J. Reynolds--about the same time that the Oriental Stage Company brought a dozen new Concord coaches from the East-and cost one thousand dollars.  Goller was then famous for elaborate vehicles and patented spring buggies which he shipped even to pretentious and bustling San Francisco.  Before the end of November, however, friends of the clever and enterprising carriage-maker were startled to hear that he had failed for the then not insignificant sum of about forty thousand dollars.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Up to the fall of the year, no connection existed between Temple and First Streets west of Spring; but on the first day of September, a cut through the hill, effected by means of chain-gang labor and continuing Fort Street north, was completed, to the satisfaction of the entire community.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About the middle of October, a petition was presented to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>441</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>418</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>During the second marshalship of William C. Warren, when Joe Dye was one of his deputy officers, there was great traffic in Chinese women, one of whom was kidnaped and carried off to San Diego.  A reward of a hundred dollars was offered for her return, and she was brought back on a charge of theft and tried in the Court of Justice Trafford, on Temple Street near Spring.  During the trial, on October 31st, 1870, Warren and Dye fell into a dispute as to the reward; and the quarrel was renewed outside the courtroom.  At a spot near the corner of Spring and Temple streets Dye shot and killed Warren; and in the scrimmage several other persons standing near were wounded.  Dye was tried, but acquitted.  Later, however, he himself was killed by a nephew, Mason Bradfield, whose life he had frequently threatened and who fired the deadly bullet from a window of the New Arlington Hotel, formerly the White House, at the southeast comer of Commercial and Los Angeles streets.  Mrs. C. P. Bradfield, Bradfield's mother and a teacher, who came in 1875, was the author of certain text-books for drawing, published by A. S. Barnes &amp; Company of New York.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Failures in raising and using camels in the Southwest were due, at least partially, to ignorance of the animal's wants, a company of Mexicans, in the early sixties, overloading some and treating them so badly that nearly all died.  Later, Frenchmen, who had had more experience, secured the two camels left, and by 1870 there was a herd of no less than twenty-five on a ranch near the Carson River in Nevada, where they were used in packing salt for sixty miles or more to the mills.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On October 31st, the first Teacher's Institute held in Los Angeles County was opened, with an attendance of thirty-five, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>419</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Soon after this Institute was held, the State Legislature authorized bonds to the amount of twenty thousand dollars for the purpose of erecting another schoolhouse; and the building was soon to be known as the Los Angeles High School.  W. H. Workman, M. Kremer and H. D. Barrows were the building committee.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mentioning educators, I may introduce the once well-known name of Professor Adams, an instructor in French who lived here in the early seventies.  He was so very urbane that on one occasion, while overdoing his polite attention to a lady, he fell off the sidewalk and badly broke his leg!</P>
023.sgm:<P>In a previous chapter I have spoken of a Frenchman named Lachenais who killed a fellow-countryman at a wake, the murder being one of a succession of crimes for which he finally paid the penalty at the hands of a Vigilance Committee in the last lynching witnessed here.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lachenais lived near where the Westminster Hotel now stands, on the northeast corner of Main and Fourth streets, but he also had a farm south of the city, adjoining that of Jacob Bell who was once a partner in sheep-raising with John Schumacher.  The old man was respectable and quiet, but Lachenais quarreled with him over water taken from the zanja.  Without warning, he rode up to Bell as he was working in his field and shot him dead; but there being no witnesses to the act, this murder remained, temporarily, a mystery. One evening, as Lachenais (to whom suspicion had been gradually directed), was lounging about in a drunken condition, he let slip a remark as to the folly of anyone looking for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>420</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>No sooner had the news of Lachenais's apprehension been passed along than the whole town was in a turmoil.  A meeting at Stearns's Hall was largely attended; a Vigilance Committee was formed; Lachenais' s record was reviewed and his death at the hands of an outraged community was decided upon. Everything being arranged, three hundred or more armed men, under the leadership of Felix Signoret, the barber--Councilman in 1863 and proprietor of the Signoret Building opposite the Pico House--assembled on the morning of December 17th, marched to the jail, overcame Sheriff Burns and his assistants, took Lachenais out, dragged him along to the corral of Tomlinson &amp; Griffith (at the corner of Temple and New High streets) and there summarily hanged him.  Then the mob, without further demonstration, broke up; the participants going their several ways.  The reader may have already observed that this was not the first time that the old Tomlinson &amp; Griffith gate had served this same gruesome purpose.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The following January, County Judge Y. Sep&uacute;lveda charged the Grand Jury to do its duty toward ferreting out the leaders of the mob, and so wipe out this reproach to the city; but the Grand Jury expressed the conviction that if the law had hitherto been faithfully executed in Los Angeles, such scenes in broad daylight would never have taken place.  The editor of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>421</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX<LB>THE CHINESE MASSACRE<LB>1871</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>H. NEWMARK &amp; COMPANY enjoyed associations with nearly all of the most important wool men and <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm: in Southern California, our office for many years being headquarters for these stalwarts, as many as a dozen or more of whom would ofttimes congregate, giving the store the appearance of a social center.  They came in from their ranches and discussed with freedom the different phases of their affairs and other subjects of interest.  Wheat, corn, barley, hay, cattle, sheep, irrigation and kindred topics were passed upon; although in 1871 the price of wool being out of all proportion to anything like its legitimate value, the uppermost topic of conversation was wool.  These meetings were a welcome interruption to the monotony of our work.  Some of the most important of these visitors were Jotham, John W. and Llewellyn Bixby, Isaac Lankershim, L. J. Rose, I. N. Van Nuys, R. S. Baker, George Carson, Manuel Dominguez, Domingo Amestoy, Juan Mat&iacute;as Sanchez, Dan Freeman, John Rowland, John Reed, Joe Bridger, Louis Phillips, the brothers Garnier, Remi Nadeau, E. J. Baldwin, P. Banning and Alessandro Repetto. There was also not a weather prophet, near or far, who did not manage to appear at these weighty discussions and offer his oracular opinions about the pranks of the elements; on which occasions, one after another of these wise men would step to the door, look at the sky and broad landscape, solemnly shake his head and then render his verdict to the speculating circle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>445</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>422</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A curious character was then here, in the person of the reputed son of a former, and brother of the then, Lord Clanmorris, an English nobleman.  Once a student at Dr. Arnold's famous Rugby, he had knocked about the world until, shabbily treated by Dame Fortune, he had become a sheepherder in the employ of the Bixbys.</P>
023.sgm:<P>M. J. Newmark, who now came to visit us from New York, was admitted to partnership with H. Newmark &amp; Company, and this determined his future residence.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As was natural in a town of pueblo origin, plays were often advertised in Spanish; one of the placards, still preserved, thus announcing the attraction for January 30th, at the Merced Theater:</P>
023.sgm:<P>TEATRO MERCED</P>
023.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lunes, Enero 30, de 1871</P>
023.sgm:<P>Primero Funci&oacute;n de la Gran Compa&ntilde;ia Dram&aacute;tica, De Don Tom&aacute;s Maguire, El Empresario Veterano de San Francisco, VEINTE Y CUATRO Artistas de ambos sexos, todos conocidos como ESTRELLAS de primera clase.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In certain quarters of the city, the bill was printed in English.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Credit for the first move toward the formation of a County <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>423</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Late in January, Luther H. Titus, one of several breeders of fast horses, brought from San Francisco by steamer a fine thoroughbred stallion named <HI REND="italics">Echo</HI>
023.sgm:, a half-brother of the celebrated trotter <HI REND="italics">Dexter</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Early in February, the first steps were taken to reorganize and consolidate the two banking houses in which Downey and Hellman were interested, when it was proposed to start the Bank of Los Angeles, with a capital of five hundred thousand dollars.  Some three hundred and eighty thousand dollars of this sum were soon subscribed; and by the first week in April, twenty-five per cent. of the capital had been called in. John G. Downey was President and I. W. Hellman was Cashier; their office was in the former rooms of Hellman, Temple &amp; Company.  On the tenth of April the institution was opened as the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank; and on July 10th, J. G. Downey, Charles Ducommun, O. W. Childs, I. M. Hellman, George Hansen, A. Glassell, J. S. Griffin, Jos&eacute; Mascarel and I. W. Hellman were chosen Trustees.  From the first the Bank prospered, so that when the crisis of 1875 tested the substantiability of the financial institutions here, the Farmers &amp; Merchants rode the storm.  In April, 1871, Hellman inaugurated a popular policy when he offered to pay interest on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>447</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>424</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On February 14th, Stephen Samsbury, known as Buckskin Bill, and a man named Carter murdered the twin brothers Bilderback who had taken up some land very close to Verdugo--now incorporated in Glendale--and were engaged in chopping wood; the murderers coveting the land and planning to sell the fuel.  Deputy Sheriff Dunlap went in pursuit of the desperadoes, and noticing some loose earth in the roadbed near by, he thrust a stick into the ground and so uncovered the blood-stained end of a blanket which led to the finding of the bodies.</P>
023.sgm:<P>J. F. Burns, who, at eighty-three years of age, still manifests his old time spirit, being then Sheriff, pursued Buckskin Bill until the twenty-fourth of June.  A young soldier on the way to Fort Yuma met Burns at San Pedro, and having agreed to sell him certain information about the fugitive, revealed the fact that Bill had been seen near Tecate, mounted on a horse, with his squaw and infant riding a mule.  The chase had previously taken the Sheriff from Verdugo Ca&ntilde;on to White Pine, Nevada, and back to Los Angeles; and acting on this new clue, Burns obtained a requisition on the Mexican Governor from Judge Ygn&aacute;cio Sep&uacute;lveda, and went to Lower California where, with Felipe Zarate, a Mexican officer, he located the man after two or three days' search.  About twenty miles north of Real Castillo, the Sheriff found the fugitive, and in the ensuing fight Samsbury accidentally shot himself; and so terribly did the wounded man suffer that he begged Burns to finish him at once.  The Sheriff, refusing, improved the opportunity to secure a full confession of Bill's numerous crimes, among which figured the killing of five other men-besides the Bilderback brothers-in different parts of California.</P>
023.sgm:<P>After Samsbury died, Burns cut off his foot--known to have six toes-and placed it in <HI REND="italics">mescal</HI>
023.sgm:, a popular and strongly intoxicating beverage of the Mexicans; and when later the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>448</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>425</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The earliest move toward the formation of a Los Angeles Board of Trade was made, not in 1883, nor even in 1873--when the first Chamber of Commerce began--but in 1871, a fact that seems to be generally forgotten.  Late in February of that year, a number of leading shippers came together to discuss Coast trade and other interests; and B. L. Peel moved that a Board of Trade be organized.  The motion was carried and the organization was effected; but with the waning of enthusiasm for the improvements proposed or, perhaps, through the failure of its members to agree, the embryonic Board of Trade soon died.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In February, B. L. Peel &amp; Company installed the telegraph in their commission office-probably the first instance of a private wire in local business history.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At the outset of the somewhat momentous decade of the seventies, Hellman, Haas &amp; Company was established, with H. W. Hellman, Jacob Haas and B. Cohn partners; their first store being on the east side of Los Angeles Street opposite H. Newmark &amp; Company's.  Abraham Haas, who came in December, 1873, had a share in his brother's venture from the start; but it was not until 1875, when he bought out Cohn's interest, that he became a partner.  Ten years after the firm commenced business, that is, in 1881, Jacob Baruch, who had come to California with J. Loew, and with him had made his start at Galatin, was admitted to partnership; and in 1889, a year after Jacob Haas's death, Haas &amp; Baruch bought out H. W. Hellman. Then it was that Haas, Baruch &amp; Company, a name so agreeably known throughout Southern California, first entered the field, their activity--immediately felt--permitting very little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>449</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>426</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>This year the United States Government began the great work of improving Wilmington or San Pedro Harbor.  The gap between Rattlesnake and Dead Man's islands was closed by means of a breakwater, creating a regular current in the channel; and dredging to a depth of seventeen or eighteen feet first made it possible for vessels of size to cross the bar at low tide.  Among those active in preparing documents for Congress and securing the survey was Judge R. M. Widney, of whose public services mention has been made; while Phineas Banning, at his own expense, made trips to Washington in behalf of the project.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A genuine novelty was introduced in 1871, when Downs &amp; Dent late in February opened a roller-skating rink at Teutonia Hall.  Twenty-five cents was charged for admission, and an additional quarter demanded for the use of skates. Ladies and gentlemen flocked to enjoy the new sensation; a second rink was soon opened in Los Angeles and another in El Monte; and among those who became proficient skaters was Pancho Coronel, one of the social lions of his day.  In time, however, the craze waned, and what had been hailed as fashionable because of its popularity in the great cities of the East,  lost in favor, particularly among those of social pretensions.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In March, a call for a meeting to organize an Agricultural Society for the Counties of Los Angeles, Santa B&aacute;rbara, San Bernardino, Kern and San Diego brought together a large number of our citizens.  L. J. Rose and his neighbor L. H. Titus, Dr. J. S. Griffin, Colonel J. J. Warner, Judge H. K. S. O'Melveny, Judge A. J. King, John G. Downey, F. N. Slaughter and many others including myself became actively interested, and then and there started the Southern District Agricultural Society which, for years, contributed so much to advance the agricultural interests of Southern California. Annual trotting races, lasting a week, lent impetus to the breeding of fine stock, for which this part of the State became famous.  L. J. Rose was the moving spirit in this enterprise; and he it was who induced me and other friends to participate.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Even the first ice machine, in March, did not freeze the price below four cents per pound.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Edited by Henry C. Austin, the <HI REND="italics">Evening Express</HI>
023.sgm: made its first appearance on March 27th.  It was started by the printers, George and Jesse Yarnell, George A. Tiffany, J. W. Paynter and Miguel Verelo; but James J. Ayers---in 1882 State Printer--who was one of the founders of the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Morning Call</HI>
023.sgm:<P>L. V. Prudhomme, better known as Victor Prudhomme-- a name sometimes, but probably incorrectly, spelled Prudhon--who is said to have come from France about the middle of the thirties, died here on May 8th.  His wife was a Spanish woman and for a while they resided on the east side of Main Street between Requena and First, not far from my brother's store. As a rather active member of the French Colony, he was a man in good standing, and was engaged, it seems to me, in the wine industry.  He also owned some land near San Bernardino and was continually visiting that place.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On May 27th, S. J. Millington, announced as "the pioneer dancing master of California," opened a dancing academy at Stearns's Hall, and it at once sprang into social favor.  He had morning classes for children and evening classes for adults. I happen to recall the circumstances more clearly for I was one of his committee of patrons.  Dances, by the way, were given frequently, and were often attended in costume and even in disguise.  I remember such an occasion in the early seventies when elaborate toilettes and variety of dress marked an advance in these harmless diversions.  Conspicuous among the guests was John Jones, elderly and seldom given to frivolity, who appeared in the character of the Father of his Country.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In early June, a Chinese junk, cruising in search of <HI REND="italics">abalones</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>450</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>428</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The sudden and abnormal demand for the <HI REND="italics">abalone</HI>
023.sgm: shell offered such large returns as to tempt men to take desperate chances in hunting for them among the rocks.  Sometime in the seventies, a Chinaman, searching near San Diego, thrust his hand into an open shell and the <HI REND="italics">abalone</HI>
023.sgm:<P>For many years Los Angeles booklovers were supplied by merchants who sold other things, or who conducted a limited loan library in conjunction with their business.  Such a circulating collection Samuel Hellman displayed in February, 1871.  The first exclusively book and periodical store was opened in the same year, by Brodrick &amp; Reilly, adjoining the Post Office on Spring street.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Albert Fenner Kercheval, who took up his residence in 1871 on the west side of Pearl Street near the end of Sixth, on what was formerly known as the Gelcich Place, first came to California--Hangtown--in 1849 and experienced much the same kind of mining adventure as inspired Bret Harte.  On his second visit to the Coast, Kercheval raised strawberries and early tomatoes, for which he found a ready sale in San Francisco; and in his spare moments he wrote poems-collected and published in 1883 under the title of <HI REND="italics">Dolores</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On June 19th, the Teutonia-Concordia society merged with the Los Angeles Turnverein, forming the Turnverein-Germania; and about the same time, the original home of the <HI REND="italics">Verein</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Having had no fitting celebration of the Fourth of July for years, a number of citizens in 1871 called a meeting to consider the matter, and A. J. Johnston, L. Lichtenberger, W. H. Perry, J. M. Griffith, John Wilson, O. W. Childs and myself were appointed to make arrangements.  A list of forty or fifty leading merchants willing to close their places of business <illus entity="a023-0108" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">(Standing</HI>
023.sgm: ) <HI REND="bold">Lorenzo Leck<HSEP> Louis Mesmer</HI>
023.sgm: <HI REND="italics">(Sitting</HI>
023.sgm: ) <HI REND="bold">Henry C. G. Schaeffer<HSEP>Henry Hammel<HSEP>John Schumacher</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0109" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Turnverein--Germania Building, Spring Street</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>451</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>429</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Slight regard was formerly paid by officers to the safety or life of the Indian, who had a persistent weakness for alcohol; and when citizens did attend to the removal of these inebriates, they frequently looked to the Municipality for compensation. For instance: at a meeting of the Common Council, in July, Pete Wilson presented a bill of two dollars and a half "for the removal of a nuisance," which nuisance, upon investigation, was shown to have been a drunken squaw whom he had retired from the street!  The Council, after debating the momentous question of reimbursement, finally reached a compromise by which the City saved just-twenty-five cents.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Alexander Bell died on July 24th, after a residence of twenty-nine years in Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Beginning with the seventies, attention was directed to Santa Monica as a possible summer resort, but it was some years before many people saw in the Bay and its immediate environment the opportunities upon which thousands have since seized.  In the summer of 1871 less than twenty families, the majority in tents, sojourned there among the sycamore groves in the Ca&ntilde;on where J. M. Harned had a bar and "refreshment parlor."  The attractions of beach and surf, however, were beginning to be appreciated, and so were the opportunities for shooting--at Tell's and elsewhere; and on Sundays two or three hundred excursionists frequently visited that neighborhood, Reynolds, the liveryman, doing a thriving business carrying people to the beach.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of this gradual awakening to the attractions of Santa Monica, I recall that school children of the late sixties held their picnics at the Ca&ntilde;on, going down on crowded stages where the choicest seats were on the box; and that one of the most popular drivers of that period was Tommy O'Campo. He handled the reins with the dexterity of a Hank Monk, and before sunrise Young America would go over to the corral, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>452</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>430</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>With the completion of the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad, excursions to Catalina began to be in vogue; but as the local population was small, considerable effort was needed sometimes to secure enough patrons to make the trips pay.  Thus an excursion for Sunday, August 13th, was advertised by the skipper of the steamer <HI REND="italics">Vaquero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Otto J. and Oswald F. Zahn, sons of Dr. Johann Carl Zahn who came here about 1871, were carrier-pigeon fanciers and established a service between Avalon and Los Angeles, fastening their messages, written on tissue paper, by delicate wire to the birds' legs.  For some time the Catalina Pigeon Messengers, as they were called, left Avalon late in the afternoon, after the last steamer, bringing news that appeared in the Los Angeles newspapers of the following morning.  Usually the birds took a good hour in crossing the channel; but on one occasion, <HI REND="italics">Blue Jim</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On the evening of August 23d, the announcement came over the wires of Don Abel Stearns's death in San Francisco, at five o'clock that afternoon, at the Grand Hotel.  Late in October, his body was brought to Los Angeles for final interment, the tombstone having arrived from San Francisco a week or two previously.  Awesome indeed was the scene that I witnessed when the ropes sustaining the eight hundred pound metallic casket snapped, pitching the coffin and its grim contents into the grave.  I shall never forget the unearthly shriek of Do&ntilde;a Arcadia, as well as the accident itself.</P>
023.sgm:<P>With the wane of summer, we received the startling news of the death, through Indians, of Frederick Loring, the young journalist and author well known in Los Angeles, who was with the United States Exploring Expedition to Arizona as a correspondent of <HI REND="italics">Appleton's Journal</HI>
023.sgm:.  "Bootless, coatless and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>453</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>431</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In September, during Captain George J. Clarke's administration as Postmaster, foreign money-orders began to be issued here for the first time, payable only in Great Britain and Ireland, twenty-five cents being charged for sending ten dollars or less; and shortly afterward, international money-orders were issued for Germany and some other Continental countries. Then five or six hundred letters for Los Angeles County were looked upon as rather a large dispatch by one steamer from San Francisco and the North; and the canceling of from twelve to fifteen dollars' worth of stamps a day was regarded as "big business."</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vincent Collyer--the Peace Commissioner sent out with General O. O. Howard by the Government in 1868--who eventually made himself most unpopular in Arizona by pleading the cause of the scalping Apaches in the fall of 1871, put up at the Pico House; when public feeling led one newspaper to suggest that if the citizens wished "to see a <HI REND="italics">monster</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the fall, tidings of Chicago's awful calamity by fire reached Los Angeles, but strange to say, no public action was taken until the editor of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Three days ago the press of this City called upon the public generally to meet at a stated hour last evening, at the County Courtroom, to do something towards alleviating the sufferings of the destitute thousands in Chicago. The calamity which has overtaken that unfortunate City has aroused the sympathy of the world, and the heart and pulse of civilized humanity voluntarily respond, extending assistance in deeds as well as in words.  From all parts of the globe, where the name of Chicago is known, liberal donations flow into a common treasury.  We had hoped to be able to add the name of Los Angeles among the list, as having done its duty.  But in what-ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>454</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>432</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:else she may excel, her charity is a dishonorable exception. Her bowels are absolute strangers to sympathy, when called upon to practically demonstrate it.  At the place of meeting, instead of seeing the multitude, we were astonished to find but three persons, viz: Governor Downey, John Jones, and a gentleman from Riverside, who is on a visit here.  Anything more disgraceful than this apathy on the part of her inhabitants she could not have been guilty of.  For her selfishness, she justly deserves the fearful fate that has befallen the helpless one that now lies stricken in the dust.  Let her bow down her head in shame.  Chicago, our response to your appeal is, <HI REND="italics">Starve!  What do we care</HI>
023.sgm:<P>This candid rebuke was not without effect; a committee was immediately formed to solicit contributions from the general public, and within an hour a tidy sum had been raised. By October 18th the fund had reached over two thousand dollars, exclusive of two hundred and fifty dollars given by the Hebrew Benevolent Society and still another hundred dollars raised by the Jewish ladies.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About the twenty-first of October a "war" broke out near Nigger Alley between two rival factions of the Chinese on account of the forcible carrying off of one of the companies' female members, and the steamer <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
023.sgm:<P>News of the attacks and counter-attacks spread like wild-fire, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>455</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>433</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Henry T. Hazard was lolling comfortably in a shaving saloon, under the luxurious lather of the barber, when he heard of the riot; and arriving on the scene, he mounted a barrel and attempted to remonstrate with the crowd.  Some friends soon pulled him down, warning him that he might be shot.  A. J. King was at supper when word was brought to him that Chinese were slaughtering white people, and he responded by seizing his rifle and two revolvers.  In trying one of the latter, however, it was prematurely discharged, taking the tip off a finger and putting him <HI REND="italics">hors de combat</HI>
023.sgm:.  Sheriff Burns could not reach the scene until an hour after the row started and many Chinamen had already taken their celestial flight. When he arrived, he called for a <HI REND="italics">posse comitatus</HI>
023.sgm: to assist him in handling the situation; but no one responded.  He also demanded from the leader of the mob and others that they disperse; but with the same negative result.  About that time, a party of rioters started with a Chinaman up Commercial <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>456</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>At the time of the massacre, I heard a shot just as I was about to leave my office, and learned that it had been fired from that part of Chinatown facing Los Angeles Street; and I soon ascertained that it had ended Thompson's life.  Anticipating no further trouble, however, I went home to dinner.  When I returned to town, news of the riot had spread, and with my neighbors, Cameron E. Thom and John G. Downey, I hurried to the scene.  It was then that I became an eye-witness to the heroic, if somewhat comical parts played by Thom and Burns. The former, having climbed to the top of a box, harangued the crowd, while the Sheriff, who had succeeded in mounting a barrel, was also addressing the tumultuous rabble in an effort to restore order.  Unfortunately, this receptacle had been coopered to serve as a container, not as a rostrum; and the head of the cask under the pressure of two hundred pounds or more of official avoirdupois suddenly collapsed and our Worthy Guardian of the Peace dropped, with accelerated speed, clear through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>457</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>Following this massacre, the Chinese Government made such a vigorous protest to the United States that the Washington authorities finally paid a large indemnity.  During these negotiations, Chinese throughout the country held lamentation services for the Los Angeles victims; and on August 2d, 1872, four Chinese priests came from San Francisco to conduct the ceremonies.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1870, F. P. F. Temple, who had seen constructed two sections of the building now known as Temple Block, made the fatal blunder of accepting the friendly advice that led him to erect the third section at the junction of Spring and Main streets, and to establish therein a bank under the name of Temple &amp; Workman.  The building, costing in the neighborhood of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, was all that could have been desired, proving by long odds the most ornamental edifice in the city; and when, on November 23d, 1871, the bank was opened in its comfortable quarters on the Spring Street side of the block, nothing seemed wanting to success.  The furnishings were elaborate, one feature of the office outfit being a very handsome counter of native cedar, a decided advance in decoration over the primitive bare or painted wood then common here.  Neither Temple, who had sold his fine ranch near Fort Tejon to embark in the enterprise, nor Workman had had any practical experience in either finance or commerce; and to make matters worse, Workman, being at that time a very old man, left the entire management to his son-in-law, Temple, in whom he had full confidence.  It soon became evident that anybody could borrow money with or without proper security, and unscrupulous people hastened to take advantage of the situation.  In due season I shall tell what happened to this bank.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the preceding spring when the Coast-line stage companies were still the only rivals to the steamers, a movement favoring an opposition boat was started, and by June leading shippers were discussing the advisability of even purchasing a competitive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>458</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:steamer; all the vessels up to that time having been owned by companies or individuals with headquarters in the Northern metropolis.  Matthew Keller was then in San Francisco; and having been led to believe that a company could be financed, books were opened for subscriptions in Los Angeles, Santa B&aacute;rbara, San Luis Obispo and elsewhere.  For lack of the necessary support, this plan was abandoned; but late in July a meeting was held in the Bella Union to further consider the matter.  Among those present was George Wright, long engaged in coast shipping; and he proposed to sell the control of the <HI REND="italics">Olympia</HI>
023.sgm:<P>H. Newmark &amp; Company being considerably interested in the movement, declared themselves ready to cooperate in improving the situation; for which reason great surprise was expressed when, in December, 1871, B. L. Peel, the commission merchant, made an attack on us, openly charging that, although "the largest shippers in the city," we had revoked our pledge to sustain the opposition to high freight rates, and so had contributed toward defeating the enterprise!  It is true that we finally discouraged the movement, but for a good and sufficient reason:  Wright was in the steamship business for anything but his health.  His method was to put on a tramp steamer and then cut passenger and freight rates ridiculously low, until the regular line would buy him out; a project which, on former occasions, had caused serious disturbances to business. When therefore Wright made this offer, in 1871, H. Newmark &amp; Company forthwith refused to participate.  I shall show that, when greater necessity required it, we took the lead in a movement against the Southern Pacific which, for lack of loyalty on the part of many of the other shippers, met not only with disastrous failure but considerable pecuniary loss to ourselves.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On December 18th, 1871, Judge Murray Morrison died. Three days later, his wife, Jennie, whom we knew as the attractive daughter of Dr. Thomas J. White, also breathed her last.</P>
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023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX<LB>THE WOOL CRAZE<LB>1872-1873</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>AS already stated, the price of wool in 1871 was exceedingly high and continued advancing until in 1872 when, as a result, great prosperity in Southern California was predicted.  Enough wool had been bought by us to make what at that time was considered a very handsome fortune.  We commenced purchasing on the sheep's back in November, and continued buying everything that was offered until April, 1872, when we made the first shipment, the product being sold at forty-five cents per pound.  As far as I am aware, the price of wool had never reached fifty cents anywhere in the world, it being ordinarily worth from ten to twelve cents; and without going into technicalities, which would be of no interest to the average reader, I will merely say that forty-five cents was a tremendously high figure for dirty, burry, California wool in the grease.  When the information arrived that this sale had been effected, I became wool-crazy, the more so since I knew that the particular shipment referred to was of very poor quality.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel R. S. Baker, who was living on his ranch in Kern County, came to Los Angeles about that time, and we offered him fifty cents a pound for Beale &amp; Baker's clip amounting to one hundred and seventy-five thousand pounds.  His reply was that it would be impossible to sell without consulting Beale; but Beale proved as wool-crazy as I, and would not sell. It developed that Beale &amp; Baker did not succeed in effecting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>460</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>The brothers Philip, Eug&egrave;ne and Camille Garnier of the Encino Ranch--who, while generally operating separately, clubbed together at that time in disposing of their product--had a clip of wool somewhat exceeding one hundred and fifty thousand pounds.  The spokesman for the three was Eug&egrave;ne, and on the same day that I made Colonel Baker the offer of fifty cents, I told Eug&egrave;ne that I would allow him forty-eight and a half cents for the Garnier product.  This offer he disdainfully refused, returning immediately to his ranch; and now, as I look back upon the matter, I do not believe that in my entire commercial experience I ever witnessed anything demonstrating so thoroughly, as did these wool transactions, the monstrous greed of man.  The sequel, however, points the moral.  My offer to the Garnier Brothers was made on a Friday.  During that day and the next, we received several telegrams indicating that the crest of the craze had been reached, and that buyers refused to take hold. On Monday following the first visit of Eugene Garnier, he again came to town and wanted me to buy their wool at the price which I had quoted him on Friday; but by that time we had withdrawn from the market. My brother wired that San Francisco buyers would not touch it; hence the Garnier Brothers also shipped their product East and, after holding it practically a full year, finally sold it for sixteen and a half cents a pound in currency, which was then worth eighty-five cents on the dollar. The year 1872 is on record as the most disastrous wool season in our history, when millions were lost; and H. Newmark: &amp; Company suffered their share in the disaster.</P>
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023.sgm:<P>It was in March that we purchased from Louis Wolfskill,  through the instrumentality of L. J. Rose, the Santa Anita <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>When we bought the Santa Anita, there were five eucalyptus or blue gum trees growing near the house.  I understood at the time that these had been planted by William Wolfskill from seed sent to him by a friend in Australia; and that they were the first eucalyptus trees cultivated in Southern California. Sometime early in 1875, the Forest Grove Association started the first extensive tract of eucalyptus trees seen in Los Angeles, and in a decade or two the eucalyptus had become a familiar object; one tree, belonging to Howard &amp; Smith, florists at the corner of Olive and Ninth streets, attaining,<ANCHOR ID="n30-31">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-31">Blown down, in a wind-storm, on the night of April 13th, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>On the morning of March 26th, Los Angeles was visited by an earthquake of sufficient force to throw people out of bed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>462</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>440</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Intending thereby to encourage the building of railroads, the Legislature, on April 4th, 1870, authorized the various Boards of Supervisors to grant aid whenever the qualified voters so elected.  This seemed a great step forward, but anti-railroad sentiment, as in the case of Banning's line, again manifested itself here.  The Southern Pacific, just incorporated as a subsidiary of the Central Pacific, was laying its tracks down the San Joaqu&iacute;n Valley; yet there was grave doubt whether it would include Los Angeles or not.  It contemplated a line through Teh&aacute;chepi Pass; but from that point two separate surveys had been made, one by way of Soledad Pass <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In April, 1872, Tom Mott and B. D. Wilson wrote Leland Stanford that a meeting of the taxpayers, soon to be called, would name a committee to confer with the railroad officials; and Stanford replied that he would send down E. W. Hyde to speak for the company. About the first of May, however, a few citizens gathered for consultation at the Board of Trade room; and at that meeting it was decided unanimously to send to San Francisco a committee of two, consisting of Governor Downey and myself, there to convey to the Southern Pacific Company the overtures of the City.  We accordingly visited Collis P. Huntington, whose headquarters were at the Grand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>463</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>On Saturday afternoon, May 18th, 1872, a public meeting was held in the Los Angeles Court-house.  Governor Downey called the assembly to order; whereupon H. K. S. O'Melveny was elected President and Major Ben C. Truman, Secretary. Speeches were made by Downey, Phineas Banning, B. D. Wilson, E. J. C. Kewen and C. H. Larrabee; and resolutions were adopted pledging financial assistance from the County, provided the road was constructed within a given time.  A Committee was then appointed to seek general information concerning railroads likely to extend their lines to Los Angeles; and on that Committee I had the honor of serving with F. P. F. Temple, A. F. Coronel, H. K. S. O'Melveny, J. G. Downey, S. B. Caswell, J. M. Griffith, Henry Dalton, Andr&eacute;s Pico, L. J. Rose, General George Stoneman and D. W. Alexander.  A few days later, Wilson, Rose and W. R. Olden of Anaheim were sent to San Francisco to discuss terms with the Southern Pacific; and when they returned, they brought with them Stanford's representative, Hyde.  Temple, O'Melveny and I were made a special committee to confer with Hyde in drawing up ordinances for the County; and these statutes were immediately passed by the Supervisors.  The Southern Pacific agreed to build fifty miles of its main trunk line through the County, with a branch line to Anaheim; and the County, among other conditions, was to dispose of its stock in the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad to the Southern Pacific Company.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When all this matter was presented to the people, the opposition was even greater than in the campaign of 1868.  One newspaper--the <HI REND="italics">Evening Express</HI>
023.sgm: --while declaring that "railway companies are soulless corporations, invariably selfish, with a love for money," even maintained that "because they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>464</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>In 1872, Nathaniel C. Carter, who boasted that he made for the Government the first American flag woven by machinery, purchased and settled upon a part of the Flores <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Terminating a series of wanderings by sea and by land, during which he had visited California in 1849, John Lang, father of Gustav J. (once a Police Commissioner), came to Los Angeles for permanent residence in 1872, bringing a neat little pile of gold.  With part of his savings he purchased the five acres since known as the Laurel Tract on Sixteenth Street, where he planted an orchard, and some of the balance he put into a loan for which, against his will, he had to take over the lot on Spring Street between Second and Third where the Lang Building now stands.  Soon after his advent here, Lang found himself one of four persons of the same name, which brought about such confusion between him, the pioneer at Lang's Station and two others, that the bank always labelled him "Lang No. I," while it called the station master "Lang No. 2."  In 1866, Lang had married, in Victoria, Mrs. Rosine Everhardt a sister of Mrs; Kiln Messer; and his wife refusing to live at the lonesome ranch, Lang bought, for four hundred dollars, the lot on Fort <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>465</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>On June 2d, B. F. Ramirez and others launched the Spanish newspaper, <HI REND="italics">La Cronica</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On the seventeenth of July our family circle was gladdened by the wedding festivities of Kaspare Cohn and Miss Hulda, sister of M. A. Newmark.  The bride had been living with us for some time as a member of our family.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have spoken of the attempt made, in 1859, to found a Public Library.  In 1872, there was another agitation that led to a mass-meeting on December 7th, in the old Merced Theatre on Main Street; and among others present were Judge Ygn&aacute;cio Sep&uacute;lveda, General George H. Stoneman, Governor John G. Downey, Henry Kirk White Bent, S. B. Caswell, W. J. Brodrick, Colonel G. H. Smith, W. B. Lawlor and myself. The Los Angeles Library Association was formed; and Downey, Bent, Brodrick, Caswell and I were appointed to canvas for funds and donations of books.  Fifty dollars was charged for a life membership, and five dollars for yearly privileges; and besides these subscriptions, donations and loans of books maintained the Library.  The institution was established in four small, dark rooms of the old Downey Block on Temple and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>466</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:Spring streets, where the Federal Building now stands, and where the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On January 1st, 1873, M. A. Newmark, who had come to Los Angeles eight years before, was admitted into partnership with H. Newmark &amp; Company; and three years later, on February 27th, he married Miss Harriet, daughter of J. P. Newmark.  Samuel Cohn having died, the associates then were: Kaspare Cohn, M. J. Newmark, M. A. Newmark and myself.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On February 1st, 1873, two job printers, Yarnell &amp; Caystile, who had opened a little shop at 14 Commercial Street, began to issue a diminutive paper called the <HI REND="italics">Weekly Mirror</HI>
023.sgm:, with four pages but ten by thirteen inches in size and three columns to the page; and this miniature news-sheet, falling wet from the press every Saturday, was distributed free.  Success greeted the advertising venture and the journal was known as the smallest newspaper on the Coast.  A month later, William M. Brown joined the firm, thenceforth called Yarnell, Caystile &amp; Brown.  On March 19th, the publishers added a column to each page, announcing, rather prophetically perhaps, their intention of attaining a greatness that should know no obstacle or limit.  In November, the <HI REND="italics">Mirror</HI>
023.sgm: was transferred to a building on Temple Street, near the Downey Block, erected for its special needs; and there it continued to be published until, in 1887, it was housed with the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Nels Williamson, to whom I have referred, married a native Californian, and their eldest daughter, Mariana, in 1873 became the wife of Antonio Franco Coronel, the gay couple settling in one of the old pueblo adobes on the present site of Bishop &amp; Company's factory; and there they were visited by Helen Hunt Jackson when she came here in the early eighties. In 1886, they moved opposite to the home that Coronel built on the southwest comer of Seventh Street and Central Avenue.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>467</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:Educated here at the public and the Sisters' schools, Mrs. Coronel was a recognized leader in local society, proving very serviceable in the preparation of <HI REND="italics">Ramona</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Daniel Freeman, a Canadian who came in 1873, was one of many to be attracted to California through Nordhoff's famous book.  After looking at many ranches, Freeman inspected the Centinela with Sir Robert Burnett, the Scotch owner then living there.  Burnett insisted that the ranch was too dry for farming and cited his own necessity of buying hay at thirty dollars a ton; but Freeman purchased the twenty-five thousand acres, stocked them with sheep and continued long in that business, facing many a difficulty attendant upon the dry seasons, notably in 1875-76, when he lost fully twenty-two thousand head.</P>
023.sgm:<P>L. H. Titus, who bought from J. D. Woodworth the land in his San Gabriel orchard and vineyard, early used iron water-pipes for irrigation.  A bold venture of the same year was the laying of iron water-pipes throughout East Los Angeles, at great expense, by Dr. John S. Griffin and Governor John G. Downey.  About the same time, the directors of the Orange Grove Association which as we shall later see founded Pasadena, used iron pipe for conducting water, first to a good reservoir and then to their lands, for irrigating.  In 1873 also, the Alhambra Tract, then beginning to be settled as a fashionable suburb of Los Angeles, obtained its water supply through the efforts of B. D. Wilson and his son-in-law, J. De Barth Shorb, who constructed large reservoirs near the San Gabriel Mission, piped water to Alhambra and sold it to local consumers.</P>
023.sgm:<P>James R. Toberman, destined to be twice rechosen Mayor of Los Angeles, was first elected in 1873, defeating Crist&oacute;bal Aguilar, an honored citizen of early days, who had thrice been Mayor and was again a candidate.  Toberman made a record for fiscal reform by reducing the City's indebtedness over thirty thousand dollars and leaving a balance of about twenty-five thousand in the Treasury; while, at the same time, he caused <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>468</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>In 1873, President Grant appointed Henry Kirk White Bent, who had arrived in 1868, Postmaster of Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The several agitations for protection against fire had, for a long time no tangible results--due most probably to the lack of water facilities; but after the incorporation of the Los Angeles Water Company and the introduction of two or three hydrants, thirty-eight loyal citizens of the town in April organized themselves into the first volunteer fire company, popularly termed the 38's, imposing a fee of a dollar a month.  Some of the yeomen who thus set the ball a-rolling were Major Ben C. Truman, Tom Rowan, W. J. Brodrick, Jake Kuhrts, Charley Miles, George Tiffany, Aaron Smith, Henry T. Hazard, Cameron E. Thom, Fred Eaton, Matthew Keller, Dr. J. S. Crawford, Sidney Lacey, John Cashin and George P. McLain; and such was their devotion to the duty of both allaying and producing excitement, that it was a treat to stand by the side of the dusty street and watch the boys, bowling along, answer the fire-bell--the fat as well as the lean hitched to their one hose-cart.  This cart, pulled by men, was known as the <HI REND="italics">jumper--</HI>
023.sgm:<P>About 1873, or possibly 1874, shrimps first appeared in the local market.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1873, the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Daily News</HI>
023.sgm:<P>To resume the narrative of the <HI REND="italics">Daily Star</HI>
023.sgm:.  In July, Henry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>469</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:Hamilton sold both the paper and the job-printing office for six thousand dollars to Major Ben C. Truman, and the latter conducted the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>John Lang--"number two"--the cultivator of fruit on what was afterward Washington Gardens, who established Lang's Station and managed the sulphur springs and the hotel there, in July killed a bear said to have been one of the grizzliest grizzlies ever seen on the Coast.  Lang started after Mr. Bruin and, during an encounter in the San Fernando range that nearly cost his life, finally shot him.  The bear tipped the beam--forbid it that anyone should question the reading of the scales--at two thousand, three hundred and fifty pounds; and later, as gossip had it, the pelt was sold to a museum in Liverpool, England. This adventure, which will doubtless bear investigation, recalls another hunt, by Colonel William Butts, later editor of the <HI REND="italics">Southern Californian</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Dismissing these bear stories, some persons may yet be interested to learn of the presence here, in earlier days, of the ferocious wild boar.  These were met with, for a long time, in the wooded districts of certain mountainous land-tracts owned by the &Aacute;bilas, and there wild swine were hunted as late as 1873.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the summer, D. M. Berry, General Nathan Kimball, Calvin Fletcher and J. H. Baker came to Los Angeles from Indianapolis, representing the California Colony of Indiana, a cooperative association which proposed to secure land for Hoosiers who wished to found a settlement in Southern California.  This scheme originated with Dr. Thomas Balch Elliott of Indianapolis, Berry's brother-in-law and an army surgeon who had established the first grain elevator in Indiana and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>470</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>Soon after their arrival, Wall Street's crash brought ruin to many subscribers and the members of the committee found themselves stranded in Los Angeles.  Berry opened a real estate office on Main Street near Arcadia, for himself and the absent Elliott; and one day, at the suggestion of Judge B. S. Eaton, Baker visited the San Pasqual <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The San Pasqual settlement was thus called for a while the Indiana Colony, though but a handful of Hoosiers had actually joined the movement; and Dr. and Mrs. Elliott, reaching Los Angeles on December 1st, 1874, immediately took possession of their grant on the banks of the Arroyo Seco near the Fremont Trail.  On April 22d, 1875, The Indiana Colony was discontinued as the name of the settlement; it being seen that a more attractive title should be selected.  Dr. Elliott wrote to a college-mate in the East for an appropriate Indian name; and <HI REND="italics">Pasadena</HI>
023.sgm: was adopted as Chippewa for "Crown of the Valley."  Linguists, I am informed, do not endorse the word as Indian of any kind, but it is a musical name, and now famous and satisfactory.  Dr. Elliott threw all his energy into the cultivation of oranges, but it was not long before he saw, with a certain prophetic vision, that not the fruit itself, but the health-giving and charming qualities of the San Pasqual climate were likely to prove the real asset of the colonists and the foundation of their prosperity.  Pasadena and South Pasadena, therefore, owe their existence largely to the longing of a frail Indiana woman for a less rigorous climate and her dream that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>471</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>M. J. Newmark was really instrumental, more than anyone else, in first persuading D. M. Berry to come to California. He had met Berry in New York and talked to him of the possibility of buying the Santa Anita <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Lawson D. Hollingsworth and his wife, Lucinda, Quakers from Indiana, opened the first grocery at the crossroads in the new settlement, and for many years were popularly spoken of as Grandpa and Grandma Hollingsworth.  Dr. H. T. Hollingsworth, their son, now of Los Angeles, kept the Post Office in the grocery, receiving from the Government for his services the munificent sum of--twenty-five cents a week.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The summer of 1873 was marked by the organization of a corporation designed to advance the general business interests of Los Angeles and vicinity.  This was the Chamber of Commerce or, as it was at first called, the Board of Trade; and had its origin in a meeting held on August 1st in the old CourtHouse on the site of the present Bullard Block.  Ex-Governor John G. Downey was called to the chair; and J. M. Griffith was made Secretary <HI REND="italics">pro tem</HI>
023.sgm:.  Before the next meeting, over one hundred representative merchants registered for membership, and on August 9th, a constitution and by-laws were adopted, a board of eleven Directors elected and an admission fee of five dollars agreed upon.  Two days later, the organization was incorporated, with J. G. Downey, S. Lazard, M. J. Newmark, H. W. Hellman, P. Beaudry, S. B. Caswell, Dr. J. S. Griffin, R. M. Widney, C. C. Lips, J. M. Griffith and I. W. Lord, as Directors; and these officers chose Solomon Lazard as the first President and I. W. Lord as the first Secretary.  Judge Widney's office in the Temple Block was the meeting-place. The Chamber unitedly and enthusiastically set to work to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>472</CONTROLPGNO>
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023.sgm:<P>On October 3d, C. A. Storke founded the <HI REND="italics">Daily and Weekly Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the autumn of 1873, Barnard Brothers set in operation the first woolen mill here, built in 1868 or 1869 by George Hansen and his associates in the Canal and Reservoir Company.  It was located on the ditch along the <HI REND="italics">canon</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In March of the preceding year, I sent my son Maurice to New York, expecting him there to finish his education. It was thought best, however, to allow him, in 1873, to proceed across the ocean and on to Paris where he might also learn the French language, at that time an especially valuable acquisition in Los Angeles.  To this latter decision I was led when Zadoc Kahn, Grand Rabbi of Paris and afterward Grand Rabbi of France, and a brother-in-law of Eugene Meyer, signified his willingness to take charge of the lad; and for three years the Grand Rabbi and his excellent wife well fulfilled their every obligation as temporary guardians.  How great an advantage, indeed, this was will be readily recognized by all familiar with the published life of Zadoc Kahn and his reputation as a scholar and pulpit orator.  He was a man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>473</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>451</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in December, L. C. Tibbetts, one of the early colonists at Riverside, received a small package from a friend at Washington, D. C., after having driven sixty-five miles to Los Angeles to get it; and he took it out of the little express office without attracting any more attention than to call forth the observation of the clerk that some one must care a lot about farming to make so much fuss about two young trees.  "`Tis nothing, says the fool!"  The package in question contained two small orange trees from Bahia, Brazil, brought to the United States by the Agricultural Department and destined to bestow upon Tibbetts the honor of having originated the navel orange industry of California.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1873, Drum Barracks at Wilmington were offered by the Government at public auction; and what had cost a million dollars or so to install, was knocked down for less than ten thousand dollars to B. D. Wilson, who donated it for educational purposes.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During the winter of 1873-74, the Southern Pacific commenced the construction of its Anaheim branch; and the first train from Los Angeles to the thriving, expectant German settlement made the run in January, 1875.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Max Cohn, a nephew, arrived in Los Angeles in 1873 and clerked for H. Newmark &amp; Company for a number of years. In December, 1885, when I retired from the wholesale grocery business, Max became a full partner.  In 1888, failing health compelled him, although a young man, to seek European medical advice; and he entered a sanatorium at Falkenstein, in the Taunus Mountains where, in 1889, he died.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>474</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>452</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI<LB>THE END OF VASQUEZ<LB>1874</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>ALTHOUGH a high school had been proposed for Los Angeles as early as 1860, it was not until 1873, during Dr. W. T. Lucky's superintendency and under his teaching, that high-school courses were inaugurated here. Then the more advanced students were accommodated in the schoolhouse on Pound Cake Hill, where the Court-house now stands; and from this humble beginning the present high-school system of Los Angeles has been evolved.  Later, under Dr. T. H. Rose's leadership, the grammar departments were removed to the other school buildings and the High School was conducted as an independent institution.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1874, S. Lazard &amp; Company dissolved, Eugene and Constant Meyer succeeding, on June 15th, under the firm name of Eugene Meyer &amp; Company or, as the store was better known, the City of Paris.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charles H., or Charley White, long prominent in the passenger department of the Southern Pacific, entered the service of the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad in 1874, as John Milner's assistant, and soon became the regular ticket-agent here.  After forty years of invaluable service, he is still with the Southern Pacific occupying the important position of Chief Clerk of the General Passenger Office.</P>
023.sgm:<P>George H. Peck, County Superintendent of Schools between 1874 and 1876, was a Vermonter who came in 1869 and bought five hundred acres of land near El Monte.  On his <illus entity="a023-0110" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Vasquez and his Captors</HI>
023.sgm: <HI REND="italics">(Top</HI>
023.sgm: ) D. K. Smith<HSEP>(Middle) Albert Johnson      <HI REND="italics">(Bottom</HI>
023.sgm: ) Emil Harris, William R. Rowland,<HSEP>Greek George's Home,<HSEP>Tib&uacute;rcio Vasquez, Walter E. Rodgers.<HSEP>G. A. Beers.<HSEP>J. S. Bryant.</P>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0111" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Greek George</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0112" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Nicol&aacute;s Martinez</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>475</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>453</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Andrew A. Weinschank, a veteran of the Battle of Vera Cruz who came to Los Angeles in 1856, died on February 16th, 1874.  For a while, he sold home-made sauerkraut, pickles and condiments, and was one of a well-known family in the German pioneer group here.  Carrie, one of Weinschank `s daughters, married a circus man named Lee who made periodical visits to Los Angeles, erecting a small tent, at first somewhere in the neighborhood of the present <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: Building, in which to conduct his show.  Later, Polly Lee became a rider in the circus and with her father electrified the youth of the town when Lee, in the character of <HI REND="italics">Dick Turpin</HI>
023.sgm:, and mounted on his charger, <HI REND="italics">Black Bess</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the early seventies, while the Southern Pacific Railway was building from San Francisco to San Jos&eacute;, some twelve or fifteen bandits, carousing at a country dance in the Mexican settlement, Panam&aacute; (about six miles south of Bakersfield) planned to cross the mountains and hold up the pay-car.  They were unsuccessful; whereupon, they turned their attention to the village of Tres Pinos, robbed several store-keepers and killed three or four men.  They were next heard of at little Kingston, in Tulare County, where they plundered practically the whole town.  Then they once more disappeared.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Presently various clues pointed to the identity of the chief <HI REND="italics">bandido</HI>
023.sgm: as one Tib&uacute;rcio Vasquez, born in Monterey in the thirties, who had taken to the life of an outlaw because, as he fantastically said, some <HI REND="italics">Gringos</HI>
023.sgm: had insolently danced off with the prettiest girls at <HI REND="italics">fandangos</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>476</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>454</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Although trailed by several sheriffs, Vasquez escaped to Southern California leading off the wife of one of his associates--a bit of gallantry that contributed to his undoing, as the irate husband at once gave the officers much information concerning Vasquez's life and methods.  One day in the spring of 1874, Vasquez and three of his companions appeared at the ranch of Alessandro Repetto, nine miles from town, disguised as sheep-shearers.  The following morning, while the inmates of the ranch-house were at breakfast, the highwaymen entered the room and held up the defenceless household. Vasquez informed Repetto that he was organizing a revolution in Lower California and merely desired to borrow the trifling sum of eight hundred dollars.  Repetto replied that he had no money in the house; but Vasquez compelled the old man to sign a check for the sum demanded, and immediately dispatched to town a boy working for Repetto, with the strict injunction that if he did not return with the money alone, and soon, his master would be shot.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When the check was presented at the Temple &amp; Workman Bank, Temple, who happened to be there, became suspicious but could elicit from the messenger no satisfactory response to his questions.  The bank was but a block from the Courthouse; and when Sheriff Rowland hurriedly came, in answer to a summons, he was inclined to detain the lad.  The boy, however, pleaded so hard for Repetto's life that the Sheriff agreed to the messenger's returning alone with the money.  Soon after, Rowland and several deputies started out along the same trail; but a lookout sighted the approaching horsemen and gave the alarm.  Vasquez and his associates took to flight and were pursued as far as Tejunga Pass; but as the cut-throats were mounted on fresh horses, they escaped. Even while being pursued, Vasquez had the audacity to fleece a party of men in the employ of the Los Angeles Water Company who were doing some work near the Alhambra Tract.  The well-known Angele&ntilde;o and engineer in charge, Charles E. Miles, was relieved of an expensive gold watch.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In April, 1874, Sheriff Rowland heard that Vasques <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>477</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>455</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:had visited the home of "Greek George"--the Smyrniot camel-driver to whom I have referred--and who was living about ten miles from Los Angeles, near the present location of Hollywood.  Rowland took into his confidence D. K. Smith and persuaded him to stroll that way, ostensibly as a farmer's hand seeking employment; and within two weeks Smith reported to Rowland that the information as to Vasquez's whereabouts was correct.  Rowland then concluded to make up a <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
023.sgm:, but inasmuch as a certain clement kept Vasquez posted regarding the Sheriff's movements, Rowland had to use great precaution. Anticipating this emergency, City Detective Emil Harris-four years later Chief of Police-had been quietly transferred to the Sheriff's office; in addition to whom, Rowland selected Albert Johnson, Under Sheriff; B. F. Hartley, a local policeman; J. S. Bryant, City Constable; Major Henry M. Mitchell, an attorney; D. K. Smith; Walter Rodgers, proprietor of the Palace Saloon; and G. A. Beers, a correspondent of the <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Chronicle</HI>
023.sgm:<P>By half-past one o'clock in the morning, the eight members of the <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
023.sgm: were all in the saddle and silently following a circuitous route.  At about daybreak, in dense fog, they camped at the mouth of Nichols's Canyon-two miles away from the house of Greek George-where Charles Knowles, an American, was living.  When the fog lifted, Johnston, Mitchell, Smith and Bryant worked their way to a point whence they could observe Greek George's farm; and Bryant, returning to camp, reported that a couple of gray horses had been seen tied near the ranch-house.  Shortly thereafter, a four-horse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>478</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>456</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:empty wagon, driven by two Mexicans, went by the <HI REND="italics">ca&ntilde;on</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A quick consultation ensued and it was decided by the <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
023.sgm: to approach their goal in the captured vehicle, leaving their own horses in charge of Knowles; and having warned the Mexicans that they would be shot if they proved treacherous, the deputies climbed into the wagon and lay down out of sight. When a hundred yards from the house, the officers stealthily scattered in various directions.  Harris, Rodgers and Johnston ran to the north side, and Hartley and Beers to the west. Through an open door, Vasquez was seen at the breakfast table, and Harris, followed by the others, made a quick dash for the house.  A woman waiting on Vasquez attempted to shut the officers out; but Harris injected his rifle through the half-open door and prevented her.  During the excitement, Vasquez climbed through a little window, and Harris, yelling, "There he goes!" raised his Henry rifle and shot at him.  By the time Harris had reached the other side of the house, Vasquez was a hundred feet away and running like a deer toward his horse. In the meantime, first Hartley and then the other officers used their shotguns and slightly wounded him again. Vasquez then threw up his hands, saying: "Boys, you've done well! but I've been a damned fool, and it's my own fault!"  The identity of the bandit thus far had not been established; and when Harris asked his name, he answered, "Alessandro Martinez."<ANCHOR ID="n31-32">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: In the meantime, captors and prisoner entered the house; and Vasquez, who was weakened from his wounds, sat down, while the young woman implored the officers not to kill him.  At closer range, a good view was obtained of the man who had so long terrorized the State.  He was about five feet six or seven inches in height, sparely built, with small feet and hands-in that respect by no means suggesting the desperado-with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>479</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>457</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31-32">Not the Spanish Alejandro; a variation doubtless suggested by the Italian Repetto's forename.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>By this time, the entire <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Underneath one of the beds was found Vasquez's vest containing Charley Miles's gold watch, which Harris at once recognized.  The prisoner was asked whether he was seriously hurt and he said that he expected to die, at the same time admitting that he was Vasquez and asking Harris to write down some of his bequests.  He said that he was a single man, although he had two children living at Elizabeth Lake; and he exhibited portraits of them.  He protested that he had never killed a human being, and said that the murders at Tres Pinos were due to Chavez's disobedience of orders.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The officers borrowed a wagon from Judge Thompson--who lived in the neighborhood--into which they loaded Vasquez, the boy and the weapons, and so proceeded on their way.  When they arrived near town, Smith and Mitchell caught up with them.  Mitchell was then sent to give advance notice of Vasquez's capture and to have medical help on hand; and by the time the party arrived, the excitement was intense.  The City Fathers, then in session, rushed out pellmell and crowds surrounded the Jail.  Dr. K. D. Wise, Health Officer, and Dr. J. P. Widney, County Physician, administered treatment to the captive.  Vasquez, in irons, pleaded that he was dying; but Dr. Widney, as soon as he had examined the captive, warned the Sheriff that the prisoner, if he escaped, would still be game for a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>480</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>458</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:long day's ride.  Everybody who could, visited him and I was no exception.  I was disgusted, however, when I found Vasquez's cell filled with flowers, sent by some white women of Los Angeles who had been carried away by the picturesque career of the <HI REND="italics">bandido</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Vasquez admitted that he had frequently visited Mexicans in Los Angeles, doing this against the advice of his lieutenant, Chavez, who had warned him that Sheriff Rowland also had good friends among the Mexicans.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Among those said to have been in confidential touch with Vasquez was Mariano G. Santa Cruz, a prominent figure, in his way, in Sonora Town.  He kept a grocery about three hundred feet from the old Plaza Church, on the east side of Upper Main Street, and had a curiously-assorted household. There on many occasions, it is declared, Vasquez found a safe refuge.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Five days after the capture, Signor Repetto called upon the prisoner, who was in chains, and remarked:  "I have come to say that, so far as I am concerned, you can settle that little account with God Almighty!"  Vasquez, with characteristic flourishes, thanked the Italian and began to speak of repayment, when Repetto replied:  "I do not expect that.  But I beg of you, if ever you resume operations, never to visit <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
023.sgm: again."  Whereupon Vasquez, placing his hand dramatically upon his breast, exclaimed:  <HI REND="italics">"Ah, Se&ntilde;or, I am a cavalier, with a cavalier's heart! "--&iexcl;Se&ntilde;or Repetto, yo soy un caballero, con el coraz&oacute;n de un caballero!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>As soon as Vasquez's wounds were healed, he was taken by Sheriff Rowland to Tres Pinos and there indicted for murder. Miller &amp; Lux, the great cattle owners, furnished the money, it was understood, for his defense--supposedly as a matter of policy.  His attorneys asked for, and obtained, a change of venue, and Vasquez was removed to San Jos&eacute;.  There he was promptly tried, found guilty and, in March, 1875, hanged.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Many good anecdotes were long told of Vasquez; one of which was that he could size up a man quickly, as to whether <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>481</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>459</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1874, Charles Maclay, with whom were associated George K. and F. B. Porter, purchased the San Fernando <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A charming home of the seventies was that of Dr. and Mrs. Shaw, pioneers situated, as I recollect, on San Pedro Street perhaps as far south as what is now Adams.  They conducted a diversified nursery, including some orange trees, to obtain which Shaw had journeyed all the way to Nicaragua.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the end of April, 1874, General E. F. Beale and Colonel R. S. Baker, representing themselves and New York capitalists, sought support for a new railroad project  a single-track line to run from this city to Shoo-Fly Landing, located, I think, near the present Playa del Rey and considerably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>482</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>460</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>For a resort that never came to be settled by a community, Truxton acquired some fame in the early seventies, a rumor also being current in the summer of 1871 that a fine sea-shore hotel was to be built there.  A clipping before me of the same date even says that "the roads to Santa Monica, Truxton and Will Tell's are in splendid order--the former being the finest natural highway on the Pacific Coast."</P>
023.sgm:<P>F. X. Eberle and wife, Marsetes, came here in 1874, bought six or seven acres on the corner of San Pedro and the present Eighth streets, and fitted up the City Gardens, with bowling alleys, swings, lawns and bowers, erecting there also a picturesque windmill.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have expressed the surprise that I felt, when, upon my return from New York in 1868, I observed that the approaches to the hills were dotted here and there with little homes.  This extension of the residence area, together with the general lack of street and sidewalk improvements making travel to and from the town somewhat inconvenient, suggested, I have no doubt, the need of the first street railroad here.  In 1869, Judge R. M. Widney, together with his associates, obtained a fifty-year franchise; and by 1874, the little Spring and Sixth Street <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>483</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>461</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In those modest days, small compensation in public utility enterprises-if such they could be called-was quite acceptable; and since the Spring and Sixth Street line had proven rather profitable, it was not long before W. J. Brodrick, Governor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>484</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>462</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Soon after this line was in running order, it was extended from Washington south to Jefferson, out Jefferson to Wesley (now University) Avenue, and thence to the race-track at Agricultural Park; and there the shed for this section was erected.  Still later, a branch was built out Washington Street to Figueroa, and down Figueroa to Jefferson, where it connected with the first extension.  No formal transfers were made, transfer-tickets first coming into vogue in Los Angeles about 1889.  Two routes for the cars were arranged, both running between Temple Block and the race-track.  The entire system was controlled by the Main Street &amp; Agricultural Park Railroad Company, with which W. J. Brodrick was associated as its first President, continuing in that office until his death in 1898.  In 1877, Colonel John O. Wheeler, the quondam journalist, was Manager.  Later, E. M. Loricke was Superintendent--the same Loricke who built the line between Oakland and Berkeley, and was finally killed by one of his own cars.  James Gallagher, who went to work for the Main Street &amp; Agricultural Park Railroad Company in October, 1888, and who had charge also of one of the first electric cars run here, is still a street-car conductor pleasantly known, with the longest record for service of any conductor in the city.  As I have said, travel in winter was anything but expeditious and agreeable; and it was not uncommon for passengers, when a car left the track, to get out and assist in the operation of putting it back.  Notwithstanding these drawbacks, however, the mule-car novelty became popular with some; and one Spanish girl in particular, whose father amply supplied her with pocket-money, was a frequent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>485</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>463</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The same year, D. V. Waldron bought about thirty-five acres on the southwest corner of Main and Washington streets, soon known as the Washington Gardens, later Chute's Park. These Gardens, among the most popular pleasure resorts here, were served by the Main Street cars which ran direct to the gate.  In addition to a Sunday afternoon' variety show that held forth in a small pavilion and secured most of its talent from Wood's Opera House, there was also dancing for those who wished to indulge.  I may add that this so-called opera house was nothing more than a typical Western song and dance resort, the gallery being cut up into boxes where the actresses, between the acts, mingled with the crowd.  Patrons indulged in drinking and smoking; and the bar in front did a thriving business.  An insignificant collection of animals-one of which, an escaping monkey, once badly bit Waldron-attracted not only the children, but their elders as well; and charmingly arranged walks, amid trees and bowers, afforded innocent and healthful means of recreation.  Waldron later went to Alaska, where a tragic death closed his career: alone and in want, he was found, in May, 1911, dead in his hut.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Waldron and Eberle's prosperity may have influenced George Lehman's fortunes; but however that was, he always maintained his popularity.  Many a joke was cracked at his expense; yet everybody had a good word for him.  Here is a newspaper note of '74:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Round House George is making great improvements in his property at Fort and Sixth streets.  He has already, at great expense, <HI REND="italics">set out a post and whitewashed a cactus plant!</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>486</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>464</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The popularity of the 38's Fire Company soon inspired a second group of the good men of Los Angeles; and in 1874 or 1875, George Furman, George E. Gard, Joe Manning, John R. Brierly, Bryce McClellan and others started Confidence Engine Company No. 2, obtaining a steamer known as an Amoskeag, which they installed in a building on Main Street near First, on what was later the site of Childs' Opera House.  It soon developed, as in the days of the San Pedro stages when the most important feature of the trip was the race to town, that a conflagration was a matter of secondary importance, the mad dash, in rivalry, by the two companies being the paramount object.  This was carried to such an extent that the day following a fire was largely given to discussing the race, and the first thing that everybody wished to know was, who got there first?  Indeed, I believe that many an alarm was sounded to afford the boys around town a good chance to stake their bets!  All this made the fire-laddies the most popular groups in the pueblo; and in every public parade for years the volunteer fire companies were the chief attraction.  In 1876, Walter S. Moore, an arrival of 1875, became the Confidence Engine Company's Secretary, that being the commencement of his career as a builder of the department.  In 1877, Moore was elected President, occupying that office till 1883 when he was made Chief Engineer of the Los Angeles Fire Department.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On May 13th, 1874, the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Daily Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Mr. Newmark, <HI REND="italics">p&egrave;re</HI>
023.sgm: and wife, were among the passengers for San Francisco by the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Eugene Meyer and myself attended the wedding, leaving Los Angeles by stage and completely surprising the merry company a few moments before the groom's father performed the <illus entity="a023-013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Benjamin S. Eaton</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0114" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Henry T. Hazard</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0115" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Fort Street Home, Harris Newmark, Site of Blanchard Hall; Joseph Newmark at the Door</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0116" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Calle de los Negros (Nigger Alley), about 1870</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0117" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Second Street, Looking East from Hill Street, Early Seventies</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>487</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>465</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The reason we journeyed north by stage was to escape observation, for since the steamer-service had been so considerably improved, most of our friends were accustomed to travel by water.  The Pacific Mail Steamship Company at that time was running the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
023.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
023.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Orizaba</HI>
023.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Mohongo</HI>
023.sgm:, the latter being the gunboat sold by the Government at the end of the War and which remained on the route until 1877; while the line controlled by Goodall, Nelson &amp; Perkins or Goodall, Nelson &amp; Company had on their list the <HI REND="italics">Constantine</HI>
023.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Kalorama</HI>
023.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Monterey</HI>
023.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">San Luis</HI>
023.sgm:, sometimes also running the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
023.sgm:, which made a specialty of carrying combustibles.  A year later, the <HI REND="italics">Ancon</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank, on June 15th, 1874, moved to their new building on the west side of Main Street, opposite the Bella Union.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On July 25th, 1874, Conrad Jacoby commenced in the old Lanfranco Building the weekly <HI REND="italics">Sued-Calijornische Post</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Henry T. Payne, the early photographer, was probably the first to go out of town to take views in suburbs then just beginning to attract attention.  Santa Monica was his favorite field, and a newspaper clipping or two preserve the announcements by which the wet-plate artist stimulated interest in his venture.  One of these reads:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mr. Payne will be at Santa Monica next Sunday, and take photographic views of the camp, the ocean, the surrounding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>488</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>466</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>while another and rather contradictory notice is as follows:</P>
023.sgm:<P>To make photographs of <HI REND="italics">moving</HI>
023.sgm: life, such as Mr. Payne's bathing scenes at Santa Monica next Sunday, <HI REND="italics">it is absolutely necessary that everybody should keep perfectly still</HI>
023.sgm:<P>As late as 1874, Fort Street--not yet called Broadway--was almost a plain, except for the presence of a few one-story adobe houses.  J. M. Griffith, the lumberman, put up the first two-story frame dwelling-house between Second and Third streets, and Judge H. K. S. O'Melveny the second; shortly after which    4! Eugene Meyer and myself built our homes in the same block. These were put upon the lots formerly owned by Burns &amp; Buffum.  Within the next two or three years, the west side of Fort Street between Second and Third was the choicest residence neighborhood in the growing city, and there was certainly not the remotest idea at that time that this street would ever be used for business purposes.  Sometime later however, as I was going home one day, I met Griffith and we walked together from Spring Street down First, talking about the new County Bank and its Cashier, J. M. Elliott--whom Griffith had induced four years previously to come to Los Angeles and take charge of Griffith, Lynch &amp; Company's lumber yard at Compton.  We then spoke of the city's growth, and in the course of the conversation he said:  "Newmark, Fort Street is destined to be the most important business thoroughfare in Los Angeles." I laughed at him, but Time has shown the wisdom of Griffith's prophecy.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The construction of this Fort Street home I commenced in the spring, contracting with E. F. Keysor as the architect, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>489</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>467</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In July, 1874, the Los Angeles County Bank was started with a capital of three hundred thousand dollars, its first directors being R. S. Baker, Jotham Bixby, George S. Dodge, J. M. Griffith, Vincent A. Hoover, Jonathan S. Slauson and H. B. Tichenor, with J. M. Elliott as Cashier.  Its first location was the room just rented by the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank adjoining the Bella Union, the County Bank's step in that direction being due, no doubt, to a benevolent desire to obtain some of its predecessor's business; and in July, 1878, it moved into the Temple &amp; Workman banking-room, after the latter's failure.  For a while the County Bank did both a commercial and a savings business; but later it forfeited the savings clause of its charter, and its capital was reduced to one hundred thousand dollars.  In time, John E. Plater, a well-known Angele&ntilde;o, became a controlling factor.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About the end of 1874, Edward F. Spence, who had come to California by way of the Nicaragua route a year earlier than myself, reached Los Angeles.  In 1884, Spence was elected Mayor on the Republican ticket.  In the course of time, he withdrew somewhat from activity in Los Angeles and became a heavy investor in property at Monrovia.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1874 or 1875, there appeared on the local scene a man who, like his second cousin, United States Senator Mallory of Florida, was destined to become a character of national renown; a man who as such could and, as a matter of fact, did serve his constituents faithfully and well.  That man was Stephen M. White.  He was born in San Francisco a few weeks before I saw that harbor city, and was, therefore, a Native Son, his parents having come to the Coast in 1849.  While a youth, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>490</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>468</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Arriving in Los Angeles, White studied law with John D. Bicknell, who afterward took him into partnership; and he soon proved to be a brilliant lawyer.  He was also an orator of the first magnitude; and this combination of talent made him not only prominent here, but attracted great attention to him from beyond the confines of city and county.  Standing as a Democrat in 1882, he was elected District Attorney by a large majority and in that capacity served with distinction, in the end declining renomination.  In 1886 he was elected State Senator and soon became President of the Senate, and then acting Lieutenant Governor.  After a phenomenal career both in his profession and in the public service--during which he was one of three counsel elected by the California Legislature to maintain the Scott Exclusion Act before the United States Supreme Court and thus conclude the controversy in the Chae Chan Ping case--he was elected to the United States Senate, and there, too, his integrity and ability shone resplendent.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The zeal with which White so successfully entered the conflict against C. P. Huntington in the selection of a harbor for Los Angeles was indefatigable; and the tremendous expenditures of the Southern Pacific in that competition, commanding the best of legal and scientific service and the most powerful influence, are all well known.  Huntington built a wharf--four thousand six hundred feet long--at Port Los Angeles, northwest of Santa Monica, after having obtained control of the entire frontage; and it was to prevent a monopoly that White made so hard a fight in Congress in behalf of San Pedro.  The virility of his repeated attacks, his freedom from all contaminating influence and his honesty of purpose--these are some of the elements that contributed so effectively to the final selection of San Pedro Harbor.  On February 21st, 1901, Senator White died.  While at his funeral, I remarked to General H. G. Otis, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>491</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>469</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:his friend and admirer, that a suitable monument to White's memory ought to be erected; and on December 11th, 1908, the statue in front of the County Courthouse was unveiled.<ANCHOR ID="n31-33">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31-33">Executive committee of the Memorial Fund: M. F. Snyder, Chairman; Joseph Scott, Secretary; James C. Hays, Treasurer; F. W. Braun, A. B. Cass, R. F. Del Valle, I. B. Dockweiler, W. J. Hunsaker, M. H. Newmark and H. G. Otis.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Hotel competition was lively in 1874.  Charles Knowlton concluded his advertisement of the Pico House with a large index-finger and the following assurance:</P>
023.sgm:<P>The unpleasant odor of gas has entirely disappeared since the building of the new sewer!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hammel &amp; Denker announced for the United States (commonly known as the U. S.):</P>
023.sgm:<P>We have all <HI REND="italics">Spring Beds</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Fluhr &amp; Gerson--the latter long a popular chap about town--claimed for the Lafayette:</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Eating Department will be conducted with especial care;</P>
023.sgm:<P>and this was some of the bait displayed by the Clarendon, formerly the Bella Union:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carriages are kept standing at the door for the use of the guests, and every effort is being made by COL. B. L. BEAL, the Present Manager, to render the guests comfortable and happy.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A couple of years later, the name of the Clarendon was changed to the St. Charles; next to which, during the Centennial year, the Grand Central, pretentious of name though small of dimension, opened with a splurge.  Hammel &amp; Denker continued to manage the United States Hotel.  The Lafayette in time became, first the Cosmopolitan and then the St. Elmo.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Octavius Morgan, a native of the old cathedral town of Canterbury, England, came to Los Angeles in 1874 and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>492</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>470</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A really picturesque old-timer even now at the age of nearly seventy, and one who, having withstood the lure of the modern automobile, is still daily driving a "one-hoss" buggy to the office of the Los Angeles Soap Company, is J. A. Forthman. In 1874, he brought a small stock of groceries from San Francisco and started a store at what is now Sixth and Olive streets; but at the end of three months, having sold out at a loss, he bought a quarter interest in a little soap plant conducted by C. W. Gibson.  Soon thereafter, vats and fat were moved to their present site on First Street.  In 1875, W. B. Bergin and in 1879, Gideon Le Sage joined Forthman and Gibson; and in 1887, the latter sold out to his associates.  J. J., a brother of W. B. Bergin, was added to the force in 1895.  For many years the concern dealt in hides, and this brought us into close business relations.   I have referred to the death of four children. Edith, a child of six, was taken from us on October 15th, 1874.</P>
023.sgm:<P>While William F. Turner, son of the miller, was busy in his little store near the Puente Mills about three miles from El Monte, on the third of June, 1874, a Californian named Romo, who lived at Pio Pico's <HI REND="italics">Ranchito</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Turner had been in the habit of closing before dark on account of the rough element near by; and when he did not return home at the accustomed hour, Mrs. Turner, taking with her a little five-shooter, set out to find him and arrived in the midst of the murderous assault.  Her pistol missed fire, but she succeeded in seizing the assassin and dragging him away from her husband; after which, the Mexican shot her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>493</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>471</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>When the news passed from mouth to mouth in El Monte, a <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Pio Pico soon heard of the lynching and sent Jake and the El Monte boys word that he would come over and "kill the whole damned lot" of them; in reply to which, El Monte forwarded to the last of the Mexican governors a cordial invitation to come, at the same time pledging to receive him in true California style-with due hospitality and warmth.  This was contemporaneous with the Vasquez excitement, and Romo was probably bent on imitating the outlaw.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>494</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>472</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII<LB>THE SANTA ANITA <HI REND="italics">RANCHO</HI>
023.sgm:<LB>1875</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>UNTIL near the end of the seventies, there was very little done toward the laying of sewers, although the reader will remember that a private conveyor connected the Bella Union with the <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
023.sgm: running through Mellus's Row.  Los Angeles Street from First to Second, in 1873, had one of brick and wood; and in 1875, a brick sewer was built from the corner of Main and Arcadia streets down to Winston and thence to Los Angeles Street.  It must have been in the early seventies that a wooden sewer was constructed on Commercial Street from Los Angeles to Alameda, and another on New High Street for about one block.  In 1879, one of brick was laid from Los Angeles to Commercial as far north as Arcadia, and connecting with the Main Street sewer.  At about the same time, vitrified clay was used on a portion of Temple Street.  My impression is that there was no <HI REND="italics">cloaca</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In January, 1875, the Commercial Bank, that was to change five years later into the First National, began business.  Most of the incorporators were San Diego men--among them being Captain Henry Wilcox--although four--L. J. Rose, S. H. Mott, R. M. Town and Edward Bouton--were from Los Angeles.  M. S. Patrick, of Chicago, was President; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>495</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>473</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Captain Wilcox, owner of the Colorado Steam Navigation Company, who finally sold out to the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, brought to California, on his own vessel in 1848, the first light-houses.  He married Se&ntilde;orita Mar&iacute;a Ant&oacute;nia Arguello, the granddaughter of an early Governor of California.  One of his daughters became the wife of Lieutenant Randolph Huntington Miner, and another married Lieutenant J. C. Drake.  Captain Wilcox had induced E. F. Spence to come from San Diego to Los Angeles, and thereby gave a decided impetus to the starting of the Commercial Bank.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Milton Lindley, formerly an Indiana saddle-maker and Treasurer of Los Angeles County in 1879, arrived here in 1875, accompanied by Walter, the physician; Henry, the banker, who settled at Whittier; Albert, an attorney; and Miss Ida B., a teacher.  In the eighties, he was twice Supervisor.  Dr. Walter Lindley, once a Minnesota schoolmaster, so soon established himself that in 1878 he was elected health officer and, in 1880, a member of the Board of Education.  The following year, he was President of the County Medical Society.  With Dr. Widney, he contributed to the literature setting forth California's natural attractions; and with his brother-in-law, Dr. John R. Haynes, he took a leading part in organizing the California Hospital.  Both Lindley and Haynes have identified themselves with many other important local institutions and movements.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Madame Caroline Severance, already distinguished as the founder, in 1868, of the first woman's club in America--the New England, of Boston--took up her residence in Los Angeles in 1875 and soon made her home, <HI REND="italics">El Nido</HI>
023.sgm:, the center of many notable sociological and philanthropic activities. Especially active was she in promoting the free kindergarten, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>496</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>474</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:working in co&ouml;peration with Mrs. Grover Cleveland and Kate Douglas Wiggin, the California author who was her <HI REND="italics">protegee</HI>
023.sgm: and resided for some time at <HI REND="italics">El Nido</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On March 27th, the <HI REND="italics">Weekly Mirror</HI>
023.sgm:<P>E. J. Baldwin bought the Santa Anita <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The sale of the Santa Anita is not without an incident or two, perhaps, of exceptional interest.  On "Lucky" Baldwin's first visit, he offered us one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for the property; but learning that we wanted two hundred thousand dollars, he started off in a huff. Then Reuben Lloyd, the famous San Francisco attorney who accompanied him, said on reaching the sidewalk, "Lucky, go back and buy that ranch, or they'll raise the price on you!" and Baldwin returned, carrying under his arm a tin-boa (containing several million dollars) from which he drew forth twelve thousand, -five hundred, tendering the same as a first payment.</P>
023.sgm:<P>One can hardly refer to Baldwin without recalling H. A.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>497</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>475</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Ravenna, on the Southern Pacific, was a town of the middle seventies, at whose start James O'Reilly, an Irishman of medium build, with reddish hair and a pug nose decidedly indented at the bridge, turned up with a happy-go-lucky air. Always slovenly, he wore a big, black slouch hat on the back of his head, as well as a good-natured expression, in days of prosperity, on his comical face.  He had a grocery, famed for a conglomeration of merchandise not at all improved by age and hard usage; and this he sold to a none too fastidious clientele. He also cooked for himself, bragging that he was sufficiently adroit to throw a slapjack up the chimney and catch it in the pan, <HI REND="italics">outside the shanty</HI>
023.sgm:<P>J. A. Graves arrived in Los Angeles on June 5th and soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>498</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>476</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:entered the office of Brunson &amp; Eastman, lawyers.  The following January he was admitted to practice before the Supreme Court and then became a member of the firm of Brunson, Eastman &amp; Graves, dissolved in 1878.  Practicing alone for a couple of years, Graves, in 1880, formed a partnership with J. S. Chapman.  On the dissolution of this firm, in 1885, Graves joined, first H. W. O'Melveny and then J. H. Shankland; Graves, O'Melveny &amp; Shankland continuing until January, 1904.  On June 1st, 1903, Graves became Vice-president of the Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank.  In the fall of 1879, the young attorney married Miss Alice H., daughter of J. M. Griffith, and for nine years they lived at the corner of Fort and Third streets.  In 1888 they removed to Alhambra, where they still live.  In 1912, Graves published some entertaining reminiscences entitled, <HI REND="italics">Out of Doors California and Oregon</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel W. E. Morford, a native of New Jersey and, late in the eighties, Superintendent of Streets, returned to Los Angeles in 1875, having previously been here.  Morford had been assistant to Captain Sutter; and when he left San Francisco on March 14th, 1849, to return East, he carried the first gold taken from the diggings in the exciting era of 1848.  This gold was sent by Frank Lemon, a member of Stevenson's Regiment, to his brother William, a partner of John Anderson, the New York tobacco merchant; and Morford liked to tell how, when the strange find was displayed on August 22d, in a little window of the well-known jewelry store of Benedict at 7 Wall Street near a high-hatted guard, the narrow thoroughfare was soon beyond hope of police control, thousands of curious, excited people struggling to get a glimpse of the California treasure.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moses Langley Wicks was a Mississippian who for some years had a law office at Anaheim until, in 1877 or 1878, he removed to Los Angeles and soon became an active operator in real estate.  He secured from Jonathan S. Slauson--who organized the Azusa Land and Water Company and helped lay out the town--the Dalton section of the San Jos&eacute; Ranch. <illus entity="a023-0118" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Round House, with Main Street Entrance</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0119" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Spring Street Entrance to Garden of Paradise</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0120" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Temple Street, Looking West from Broadway, about 1870</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0121" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Pico House, soon after Completion</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>499</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>477</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Southern California was now prospering; in fact, the whole State was enjoying wonderful advantages.  The great Comstock mines were at the height of their prosperity; the natural resources of this part of the country were being developed; land once hard to sell, at even five dollars an acre, was being cut up into small tracts; new hamlets and towns were starting up; money was plentiful and everybody was happy.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About this time my brother, J. P. Newmark, and I made a little tour, visiting Lake Tahoe--an unusual trip in that day--as well as the mines of Nevada.  Virginia City, Gold Hill and other mining-camps were the liveliest that I had ever seen. My friend, General Charles Forman, was then Superintendent of the Overman and Caledonia Mines, and was engaged in constructing a beautiful home in Virginia City.  After the collapse of the Nevada boom in the early eighties, he transported this house to Los Angeles, at a freight expense of eleven hundred and thirty-five dollars and a total cost of over six thousand, and located it on ten acres of land near the present site of Pico and Figueroa streets, where Mr. and Mrs. Forman, still residents of Los Angeles, for years have enjoyed their home.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Miners were getting high wages and spending their money lavishly, owners of buildings in Virginia City receiving from four to eight per cent. a month on their investments. W. C. Ralston, President of the Bank of California at San Francisco, was largely responsible for this remarkable excitement, for he not only lent money freely but he lent it regardless of conservative banking principles.  He engaged in indiscriminate speculation, for a time legitimatizing illegitimacy, and people were so incited by his example that they plunged without heed.  All of Nevada's treasure was shipped to San Francisco, whose prosperity was phenomenal.  From San Francisco the excitement spread <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>500</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>478</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Temple &amp; Workman's Bank, for reasons I have already specified, could not recover.   Personally, these gentlemen stood well and had ample resources; but to realize on these was impossible under conditions then existing.  They applied to E. J. Baldwin, a Monte Cristo of that period, for a loan. He was willing to advance them two hundred and ten thousand dollars, but upon two conditions: first, that they would give him a blanket-mortgage on their combined real estate; secondly, that their intimate friend, Juan Matlas Sanchez, would include in the mortgage his splendid tract consisting of twenty-two hundred acres of the finest land around the Old Mission.  Sanchez, who transacted a good deal of business with H. Newmark &amp; Company, came to me for advice.  I felt convinced that Temple &amp; Workman's relief could be at best but temporary, although I am sure that they themselves believed it would be permanent, and so I strenuously urged Sanchez to refuse; which he finally promised me to do.  So <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>501</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>479</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:impressive was our interview that I still vividly recall the scene when he dramatically said:  "&iexcl;<HI REND="italics">No quiero morir de hambre!</HI>
023.sgm: "--I do not wish to die of hunger!"  A few days later I learned, to my deep disappointment, that Sanchez had agreed, after all, to include his lands.  In the course of time, Baldwin foreclosed and Sanchez died very poor.  Temple also, his pride shattered--notwithstanding his election in 1875 to the County Treasurership--died a ruined man; and Workman soon committed suicide.  Thus ended in sorrow and despair the lives of three men who, in their day, had prospered to a degree not given to every man. and who had also been more or less distinguished.  Baldwin bought in most of the land at Sheriff's sale; and when he died, in 1909, after an adventurous career in which he consummated many transactions, he left an estate of about twenty millions. A pathetic reminder of Sanchez and his one-time prosperity is an <HI REND="italics">azador</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1874, Senator John P. Jones came south and engaged with William M. Stewart, his senatorial colleague (once an obscure lawyer in Downieville, and later a Nevada Croesus), in mining at Panamint, purchasing all their supplies in Los Angeles.  About the same time, Colonel R. S. Baker, who had shortly before bought the San Vicente <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, sold a two-thirds interest in the property to Jones; and one of their first operations was the laying out of the town of Santa Monica. After the hotel and bath-houses had been built, an auction sale of lots took place on July 16th, 1875, and was attended by a large number of people, including myself; prospective buyers coming from as far. as San Francisco to compete with bidders from the Southland.  Tom Fitch, already known as the "Silver-tongued Orator," was the auctioneer and started the ball rolling with one of his most pyrotechnical efforts.  He described the place about to be founded as "The Zenith City by the Sunset Sea," and painted a gorgeous vista of the day when the white sails of commerce would dot the placid waters of the harbor, and the products of the Orient would crowd <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>502</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>480</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Then Tom turned his attention and eloquence to the sale of the lots, which lay along Ocean Avenue, each sixty by one hundred and fifty feet in size.  Calling for a bid, he announced the minimum price of three hundred dollars for sites along the ocean front.  Several friends--I. M. Hellman, I. W. Hellman, Kaspare Cohn, Eugene Meyer and M. J. Newmark-had authorized me to act for them; and I put in the first bid of three hundred dollars.  Fitch accepted, and stated that as many more of these lots as I wanted could be had at the same price; whereupon I took five, located between Utah and Oregon avenues.  These we divided among us, each taking fifty feet front, with the expectation of building summer homes; but strange to say, none of us did so, and in the end we sold our unimproved ground.  Some years later, I bought a site in the next block and built a house which I still occupy each year in the summer season.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Three early characters of Santa Monica had much to do with the actual starting of the place.  The one, L. G. Giroux, a Canadian, walked out to Santa Monica one day in 1875, to get a glimpse of the surf, and came back to town the owner of a lot on which he soon built the second permanent house there--a small grocery and liquor shop.  In the eighties, Giroux did good public service as a Supervisor.  The second, Billy Rapp, also came in 1875 and built a small brick house on the west side of Second Street somewhere between Utah and Arizona avenues. There, after marrying a German <HI REND="italics">Frau</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>503</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>481</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Another pioneer Santa Monica family was that of William D. Vawter who, with his sons, W. S. and E. J., originally members of the Indiana Colony at Pasadena, removed to the beach in 1875.  My relations with these gentlemen were quite intimate when they conducted a general merchandise business, that being but one of their numerous enterprises.  Of late years, W. S. Vawter has twice been Postmaster at Santa Monica.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1875, Paul Kern, who had come to Los Angeles in 1854 and was for years a baker, set to work to improve a piece of property he owned at the junction of South Main and Spring streets, between Eighth and Ninth.  At the end of this property he erected a two-story brick building--still to be seen--in the lower part of which he had a grocery and a saloon, and in the upper part of which he lived.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the middle of the seventies, A. Ulyard, the baker, embarked in the carrying of passengers and freight between Los Angeles and Santa Monica, sending a four-horse stage from here at half-past seven every morning, and from Santa Monica at half-past three in the afternoon, and calling at all four Los Angeles hotels as well as at the private residences of prospective patrons.  One dollar was the fare charged.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ralph Leon had the only regular cigar store here in the late sixties, occupying a part of the United States Hotel; and he was very prosperous until, unable to tolerate a nearby competitor-George, a brother of William Pridham-he took up a new stand and lost much of his patronage.  Pridham opened the second cigar store, about 1872 or 1873, next to the hotel; and Leon moved to a shop near the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The names of these early dealers remind me of an interesting custom especially popular with Captain Thom, Billy Workman and other lovers of the aromatic weed.  Instead of buying cigars by the piece, each of these inveterate smokers purchased a box at a time, wrote his name on the lid and left it on a shelf of the dealer; and from time to time they would slip in by a rear door and help themselves  generally from their own or, occasionally, from their neighbor's supply. When Leon discovered that the patron's box was empty, he would have it refilled.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>504</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>482</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the autumn, Temple &amp; Workman were obliged to suspend.  After closing temporarily, they made an effort to resume, but a run on the Bank deprived them of all reserves and they finally had to close their doors.  It was the worst of all bank failures here, the creditors losing everything.  Some idea of the disaster may be gathered from the fact that the Receiver finally sold worthless securities to the extent of about three hundred thousand dollars for the paltry sum of thirty dollars.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On the sixth of November, 1875, Mrs. Joseph Newmark, my wife's mother, died here surrounded by her nearest of kin.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During the construction of the Southern Pacific Railway, Sisson, Wallace &amp; Company, who furnished both labor and supplies, brought M. Dodsworth to Los Angeles and like many of their employees, he remained here after the railroad was completed.  He engaged in the pork-packing business, for a long period prospered and built a residence on the southwest corner of Sixth and Main streets, opening it with a large reception.  He was an honorable man and had a host of friends; but about 1887, when the Santa F&eacute; had been built to Los Angeles, the large Eastern packers of hog products sent agents into Southern California and wiped Dodsworth out of business.</P>
023.sgm:<P>S. J. Mathes came in 1875, helped enlarge the <HI REND="italics">Mirror</HI>
023.sgm: and was identified with the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the end of the year, when attention was being centered on the coming exposition at Philadelphia, I was asked by the Chamber of Commerce to assist in editing a report on the resources, conditions, population, climatic advantages and mercantile interests of the city and county of Los Angeles. The aim of the Board was to make the report truthful and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>505</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>483</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the early seventies, Grange Stores, brought into existence by a craze for co&ouml;peration, were scattered throughout the State, and Milton H. La Fetra in February, 1875 helped to organize one here.  In time, this establishment became known, first as Seymour &amp; Company and then as Seymour, Johnson &amp; Company, their location being on Main Street near First.</P>
023.sgm:<P>W. H. Northcraft's activity as an auctioneer began about the middle of the seventies.  For a while, he had an office in Temple Block, but about 1880 moved to the east side of Los Angeles Street near Requena; later to the Signoret Building, and still later to the Baker Block.  In 1879, Thomas B. Clark, still well known "in the profession," came to Los Angeles and, marrying Northcraft's daughter, joined his father-in-law in partnership.  C. L. Northcraft, a son, was added <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>506</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>484</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The mention of these names recalls the auction of past decades, such a familiar feature of Los Angeles life.  In few respects were the methods of early days at all like those of our own: there were no catalogues, no neatly-arranged store-rooms and but little expert service; noise and bluff constituted a good, even important portion of the necessary auctioneering talent; household effects were usually offered at homes; horses--and these constituted the objects of most early auctioneering activities--were trotted up and down Los Angeles Street for display and sale.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>507</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>485</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIII<LB>LOS ANGELES &amp; INDEPENDENCE RAILROAD<LB>1876</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>ONCE Santa Monica's boom had been launched, the town developed as had few other suburbs of Los Angeles.  Within nine or ten months a thousand inhabitants pointed with satisfaction to one hundred and sixty houses and perhaps half as many tents.  Senator Jones built a wharf and pushed to completion the Los Angeles &amp; Independence Railroad; and the road was opened to the public on Wednesday, December 1st, 1875, with a depot on San Pedro Street near Wolfskill Lane.  Two trains a day were run-one leaving Los Angeles for Santa Monica at half-past nine in the morning and another at a quarter after four in the afternoon; the trains from Santa Monica for Los Angeles departing at half-past seven in the morning and half-past two in the afternoon.  On January 5th, 1876, the Railroad Company offered sixty single commutation tickets for ten dollars; and a few days later, the conductor and other train employees appeared in uniform, each wearing on his cap what was then considered an innovation, the badge of his office.  Captain Joseph O. Craw-ford was Superintendent and Chief Engineer.</P>
023.sgm:<P>From the start the Road did a thriving freight business, although passenger traffic was often interfered with.  Early in January, 1876, for instance, the train from Santa Monica failed to make its appearance, the engineer having spied a bit of ground suspiciously soft in the <HI REND="italics">ci&eacute;naga</HI>
023.sgm: --locally spelled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>508</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>486</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>There were also inconveniences of travel by steamer such as arose from the uncertainty whether a vessel running between San Francisco and San Diego would put in at San Pedro or Santa Monica.  According to conditions, or perhaps through the desire to throw a little trade one way or the other, the captain might insist on stopping at one port, while friends had assembled to greet the traveler at the other. A single car, with such objects of wonder as air brakes and Miller couplers drew Sunday crowds; and when, about the middle of January, the Company carried down ten car-loads of people on a single day and brought them back safely, substantial progress, it was generally felt, had been made.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In February, the Santa Monica Land Company was pushing its sales of real estate, and one of its announcements began with the headlines:</P>
023.sgm:<P>SANTA MONICA!</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Wonderful Young City and Seaport of</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southern California!</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Future Terminus of the Union &amp; Texas Pacific Railroad!</P>
023.sgm:<P>the advertisement winding up with the declaration that several hundred vessels, including the largest boats of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, had already loaded and discharged at the wharf in all weathers!</P>
023.sgm:<P>My memory is obscure as to just when Senator Jones built his splendid mansion at the corner of Ocean and Nevada avenues, but I think it was about 1890.  I certainly recollect that it was then considered the most extensive and elaborate home in the vicinity of Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rather late in January, H. Newmark &amp; Company had their first experience with burglars who scaled the wall behind the store one Saturday night, cut away enough brick to enable them to throw back the bolt of the door, then barricaded the front doors by means of crowbars and proceeded to open the safe, which was of the old Tilton &amp; McFarland pattern.  The face <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>509</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>487</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Following this futile attack, we sent for a new safe of the Hall type.  Scarcely had a month elapsed, however, when a second attempt was made in much the same way.  Then the burglars went to work in real earnest and soon effected an entrance into the money-drawers.  But, alas! the entire contents secured would not have provided half a dozen <HI REND="italics">tamales!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In February, trains on the Los Angeles &amp; Independence Railroad began to leave Los Angeles at ten o'clock in the morning and five o'clock in the afternoon, and Santa Monica at eight and four o'clock, the Company deeming it a sufficient inducement to allow excursionists five or six hours to bathe, fish or picnic.  Round-trip tickets, good for the day and date only, were sold at a dollar each; and the management reserved the right, on steamer days, to change the schedule to fit the sailings. When a fourth passenger coach was added to the equipment, the Company declared that the accommodations between this city and Santa Monica were "equal to those on any road along the entire Coast;" but the high-water mark of effort was reached when it was announced that the "splendid palace car dubbed <HI REND="italics">Santa Monica</HI>
023.sgm:, which had carried Senator Jones to Washington," was then being sent south from San Francisco for the convenience of the Company's patrons.  In March, while the San Pedro Street Railway was being built, another official announcement said that "in the course of a few days the people of this city will have the <HI REND="italics">honor</HI>
023.sgm: and delight of seeing a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>510</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>488</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<HI REND="italics">palace</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Go, by all means, to the grand seaside excursion to Santa Monica on Friday, for among the objects of interest will be Senator Jones's magnificent new palace-car now being completed by the tailors ( <HI REND="italics">sic</HI>
023.sgm: ) which will have three <HI REND="italics">salons</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On February 14th, General Andr&eacute;s Pico died at his residence, 203 Main Street, and was buried from his home on the following day.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On March 1st, work was commenced on the San Pedro Street Railway, which in time was extended from the Santa Monica station to the Plaza, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In March, also, two hundred pleasure-seekers, then considered a generous outpouring, went down to Santa Monica on a single Sunday; and within the first three months of the year, the Land Company there gathered in about seventy-three thousand dollars--selling a lot almost every day.  South Santa Monica was then looked upon as the finer part of the growing town, and many of my friends, including Andrew Glassell, Cameron E. Thom, General George Stoneman, E. M. Ross, H. M. Mitchell, J. D. and Dr. Frederick T. Bicknell and Frank Ganahl, bought sites there for summer villas.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Micajah D. Johnson, twice City Treasurer, was a Quaker who came here in 1876.  He built at Santa Monica a hotel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>511</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>489</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1876, the City purchased a village hook-and-ladder truck in San Francisco which, drawn by hand in the vigorous old-fashioned way, supplied all our needs until 1881.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1876, the Archer Freight and Fare Bill, which sought to regulate railroad transportation, engrossed the attention of commercial leaders, and on March 9th, President S. Lazard called together the Directors of the Chamber of Commerce at the office of Judge Ygn&aacute;cio Sep&uacute;lveda.  Besides President Lazard, there were present R. M. Widney, W. J. Brodrick, M. J. Newmark, E. E. Hewitt and I. W. Lord.  Little time was lost in the framing of a despatch which indicated to our representatives how they would be expected to vote on the matter.  Several speeches were made, that of M. J. Newmark focusing the sentiment of the opposition and contributing much to defeat the measure.  Newmark expressed surprise that a bill of such interest to the entire State should have passed the Lower House apparently without discussion, and declared that Southern Californians could never afford to interfere with the further building of railroads here.  Our prosperity had commenced with their construction, and it would be suicidal to force them to suspend.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In a previous chapter I have spoken of the rate--ten dollars per thousand--first charged for gas, and the public satisfaction at the further reduction to seven dollars and a half. This price was again reduced to six dollars and seventy-five cents; but lower rates prevailing elsewhere, Los Angeles consumers about the middle of March held a public meeting to combat the gas monopoly.  After speeches more lurid, it is to be feared, than any gas flame of that period, a resolution was passed `binding those who signed to refrain from using gas for a whole year, if necessary, beginning with the first of April.  Charles H. Simpkins, President of the Los Angeles Gas Company, retorted by insisting that, at the price of coal, the Company could not possibly sell gas any cheaper; but a single week's reflection, together with the specter of an oil-lamp <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>512</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>490</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Will Tell was a painter in 1869 and had his shop in Temple Block, opposite the Court House.  Early in 1876 he opened a lunch and refreshment house at the corner of Fourth Street and Utah Avenue in Santa Monica, where he catered to excursionists, selling hunting paraphernalia and fishing tackle, and providing "everything, including fluids."  Down at what is now Playa del Rey, Tell had conducted, about 1 a resort on a lagoon covered with flocks of ducks; and there he kept eight or ten boats for the many hunters attracted to the spot, becoming more and more popular and prosperous.  In 1884, however, raging tides destroyed Tell's happy hunting grounds; and for fifteen or twenty years, the "King's Beach" was more desert than resort.  Tell continued for a while at Santa Monica and was an authority on much that had to do with local sport.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On Sunday, April 9th, the Cathedral of Sancta Vibiana, whose corner-stone had been laid in 1871 on the east side of Main Street south of Second, was opened for public service, its architecture (similar to that of the Puerto de San Miguel in Barcelona, Spain) at once attracting wide attention.  As a matter of fact, the first corner-stone had been placed, on October 3d, 1869, on the west side of Main Street between Fifth and Sixth, when it was expected that the Cathedral was to extend to Spring Street.  The site, however (and oddly enough,) was soon pronounced, "too far out of town," and a move was undertaken to a point farther north.  In more recent years, efforts have been made to relocate the bishop's church in the West End.  A feature of the original edifice was a front railing, along the line of the street, composed of blocks of artificial stone made by Busbard &amp; Hamilton who in 1875 started a stone factory, the first of its kind here, in East Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Victor Dol, who arrived here in the Centennial year and became the Delmonico of his day, kept a high-grade restaurant, known as the Commercial in the old Downey Block, about one hundred and fifty feet north of the corner of Spring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>513</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>491</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:and Temple streets.  The restaurant was reached through a narrow passageway that first led into an open court paved with brick, in the center of which a fountain played.  Crossing this court, the interested patron entered the main dining-room, where an excellent French dinner was served daily at a cost of but fifty cents, and where the popular <HI REND="italics">chef</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Dol then had in his employ an uncle, who was a rather mysterious individual, and who proved to be a French anarchist. It was said that his pet scheme for regulating the government of Louis Philippe met with such scant approval that, one fine day, he found himself in jail.  Escaping in course of time from the anxious and watchful authorities, he made his way to the outside world and finally located here.  After the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71, he was supposed to have returned to his native land, where he once more satisfied his peculiar propensity for patriotic activity by tearing down and burning, in company with other so-called Communists, some of the most beautiful buildings in all Paris.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1876, Los Angeles boasted of another French restaurant, a dining place called the Oriental and conducted by a Frenchman, C. Casson and a German, H. Schmitt. It was on Main Street opposite the Pico House, and much ado was made of the claim that everything was "in European style" and that it was "the largest and most commodious restaurant south of San Francisco."</P>
023.sgm:<P>Human nature--at least of the feminine type--was much the same, thirty-five or forty years ago, as it is to-day.  Such a conclusion, at least, the reader may reach after scanning an Easter advertisement of Miss Hammond, an 1876 milliner who had a little shop at 7 North Spring Street and who then made the following announcement to those of her fashion-loving sex:</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>514</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>492</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Miss Hammond, who has just received a splendid lot of new styles of hats, bonnets, silks, ribbons, etc., invites the ladies of Los Angeles to call at her place of business before purchasing elsewhere.  One glance into her show-window will be enough to project any modern heart into a state of palpitation.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elsewhere I have mentioned the salt works near Redondo's site.  Dr. H. Nadeau (who came here in 1876, had an office in the Grand Central Hotel and was soon elected Coroner) was once called there and started with a constable and an undertaker--the latter carrying with him a rough board coffin for the prospective "subject."  Losing their way, the party had to camp for the night on the plains; whereupon the Coroner, opening the coffin, crawled in and "slept like a brick!"</P>
023.sgm:<P>John Edward Hollenbeck, who in 1888 built the Hollenbeck Hotel, returned to Los Angeles in the spring of 1887--having been here in 1874, when he made certain realty investments--secured land on the east side of the Los Angeles River, spent a large sum of money for improvements and soon built a residence exceptionally fine for that time.  And in this beautiful home, in close proximity to Boyle Avenue, he lived until his death, on September 2d, 1885, at the age of fifty-six years. Succeeding A. C. Bilicke in 1903, John S. Mitchell, long a prominent Angele&ntilde;o, is still controlling this busy hostelry.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have spoken of an adobe on ten acres of land I once purchased to secure water for my flock of sheep.  After Hollenbeck had built his home on Boyle heights, he was so disturbed by a company of Mexicans who congregated in this adobe that, in sheer desperation, he asked me in 1882 to sell him the land. I did so, and we agreed upon six hundred and twenty-five dollars as a price for the entire piece.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hollenbeck then made another noteworthy investment. H. C. Wiley owned a lot, one hundred and twenty feet by one hundred and sixty-five, on the southeast corner of Fort and Second streets, where he lived in a small cottage.  He had mortgaged this property for six thousand dollars; but since, under his contract, Wiley was not required to pay interest, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>515</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>493</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>So many ranchers had again and again unsuccessfully experimented with wheat in this vicinity that when I. N. Van Nuys, in 1876, joined Isaac Lankershim in renting lands from the company in which they were interested, and in planting nearly every acre to that staple grain, failure and even ruin were predicted by the old settlers.  Van Nuys, however, selected and prepared his seed with care and the first season rewarded them with a great harvest, which they shipped to Liverpool.  Thus was inaugurated the successful cultivation of wheat in Southern California on a large scale.  In 1878, the depot of the Southern Pacific at the corner of Alameda and Commercial streets had become too small for the Company's growing business, compelling them to buy on San Fernando Street; and Lankershim and his associates purchased the old structure from the Company for the sum of seventeen thousand, five hundred dollars, and there erected a flour mill which they conducted until the ranch was sold, a few years ago.</P>
023.sgm:<P>One of the very interesting cases in the Los Angeles courts was that which came before Judge H. K. S. O'Melveny on May 15th when Mrs. Eulalia Perez Guillen, one hundred and thirty years old according to the records of the church at San Gabriel, claimed the right to exhibit herself at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia as a California curiosity.  She was accompanied to court by a daughter, Mariana and their counsel, F. P. Ramirez but there was also present another daughter, Mrs. de White, who brought Attorney Stephen M. White to assist in opposing the visionary scheme.  Mariana admitted that she had not the means to humor the old lady in her hobby, while Mrs. de White objected that her mother was in her dotage and could not travel as far as Philadelphia.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>516</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>494</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On May 17th, William Workman was gathered to his fathers, later being buried near the little chapel at La Puente, side by side with John Rowland, his early comrade and life-long friend.</P>
023.sgm:<P>An early and popular educator here was Miss E. Bengough who, about 1870, had started her "Select School for Young Ladies and Children," and who on June 5th had one of her "commencements" in the Spring Street school house.  At the beginning of the eighties, the Bengough school was at No. 3 Third Street.  Miss Bengough died, a number of years ago, after having been for some years at the Hollenbeck Home.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Glowing descriptions of the Centennial Exposition first attracted the attention of Madame Helena Modjeska, the Polish lady eventually so famous, and the presence here of a small Polish colony finally induced her and her husband, Charles Bozenta Chlapowski, to make the dubious experiment of abandoning the stimulation of Old World culture and committing themselves to rustic life near the bee ranch of J. E. Pleasants in Santiago Ca&ntilde;on.  Heaps of cigarettes, books and musical instruments were laid in to help pass the hours pleasantly; but disaster of one kind or another soon overtook the idealists who found that "roughing it "in primeval California suggested a nightmare rather than a pleasant dream.  Forced to take up some more lucrative profession, Madame Modjeska, in July, 1877, made her <HI REND="italics">debut</HI>
023.sgm: in San Francisco as <HI REND="italics">Adrienne Lecouvreur</HI>
023.sgm: and was soon starring with Booth.  This radical departure, however, did not take the gifted lady away for good; her love for California led her to build, near the site of their first encampment and in what they called the Forest of Arden, a charming country home to which she repaired when not before the footlights.  Still later, she lived near Newport.  More than one public ovation was tendered Madame Modjeska in Los Angeles, the community looking upon her as their own; and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>517</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>495</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In June, W. W. Creighton started the <HI REND="italics">Evening Republican</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Andrew W. Ryan, a Kilkenny Irishman commonly called Andy, after footing it from Virginia City to Visalia, reached Los Angeles on horseback and found employment with Banning as one of his drivers.  From 1876 to 1879, he was County Assessor, later associating himself with the Los Angeles Water Company until, in 1902, the City came into control of the system.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>518</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>496</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIV<LB>THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC<LB>1876</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>BEFORE the completion of the San Fernando tunnel, a journey East from Los Angeles by way of Sacramento was beset with inconveniences. The traveler was lucky if he obtained passage to San Fernando on other than a construction train, and twenty to twenty-four hours, often at night, was required for the trip of the Telegraph Stage Line's creaking, swaying coach over the rough road leading to Caliente-the northern terminal-where the longer stretch of the railroad north was reached.  The stage-lines and the Southern Pacific Railroad were operated quite independently, and it was therefore not possible to buy a through-ticket. For a time previously, passengers took the stage at San Fernando and bounced over the mountains to Bakersfield, the point farthest south on the railroad line.  When the Southern Pacific was subsequently built to Lang's Station, the stages stopped there; and for quite a while a stage started from each side of the mountain, the two conveyances meeting at the top and exchanging passengers. Once I made the journey north by stage to Tipton in Tulare County, and from Tipton by rail to San Francisco.  The Coast Line and the Telegraph Line stage companies carried passengers part of the way.  The Coast Line Stage Company coaches left Los Angeles every morning at five o'clock and proceeded <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm: Pleasant Valley, San Buenaventura, Santa B&aacute;rbara, Guadalupe, San Luis Obispo and Paso de Robles Hot Springs, and connected at Soledad with the Southern Pacific Railroad bound <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>519</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>497</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1876, I visited New York City for medical attention and for the purpose of meeting my son, Maurice, upon his return from Paris.  I left Los Angeles on the twenty-ninth of April by the Telegraph Stage Line, traveling to San Francisco and thence east by the Central Pacific Railroad; and I arrived in New York on the eighth of May.  My son returned, June 29th, on the steamer <HI REND="italics">A byssinia</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Our itinerary brought us to the Centennial Exhibition in Philadelphia, on the Fourth of July; and aside from the peculiar satisfaction at being present on historic ground upon that anniversary, I recall, with pleasure, many experiences and impressions new and interesting, notwithstanding the inconvenience caused by the great crowds.  At the Exhibition, which had a circumference of only three and a half miles, I saw California's small but very creditable display; and I remember my astonishment at seeing a man seated before an apparatus, apparently in the act of printing letters.  He was demonstrating an early typewriter, and I dictated to my wife half a dozen lines which he rapidly typed upon paper.  Of the various nations, the Japanese and the Chinese attracted me most.  Machinery Hall, with its twelve hundred machines all run by one huge Corliss engine, was as noisy as it was interesting.  The New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: were printed there daily.  In the Art Gallery there was one marble figure so beautifully draped that a young lady, passing by, said: "Father, why don't they remove that lace shawl from the statue?"  During the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>520</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>498</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On our way West we stopped at Salt Lake City; and as we had been informed that Brigham Young would be at the Opera House that evening, we attended the performance.  I have forgotten the name of the play, but Rose Eytinge was the star. Brigham sat in his private box with two of his wives; and as it was a very hot night in July and the building was packed with people, his wives were both fanning him assiduously and otherwise contributing to his comfort.  The following day we called at his residence to see him, expecting to renew an acquaintanceship established years before; but to our regret he was ill and could not receive us. A few months later, he died.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Leaving Salt Lake City early in August, we traveled by the Central Pacific to San Francisco where several days were very pleasantly spent with my brother and his family, and from there we left for Los Angeles, taking the Southern Pacific to its terminus at Lang's Station.  Proceeding over the mountain by stage, we arrived at what is now the south end of the long tunnel and there boarded the train for this city.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Among others who went from Los Angeles to the Philadelphia Centennial was Ben C. Truman. He took with him specimens of choice California plants, and wrote letters, from various stations on the way, to his paper, the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Ben Truman's visit recalls the enterprise of preparing a booklet for circulation at the exposition setting forth the advantages of Los Angeles, and the fact that the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:<P>This City has never been so prosperous as when the Chamber of Commerce sent fifty papers each week for one year of the <HI REND="italics">Herald, Express</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:, to the leading hotels and libraries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>521</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>499</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Another interesting experiment in early advertising, by means of the stereopticon, was made in 1876 when the Los Angeles photographer, Henry T. Payne, exhibited at Philadelphia a fine selection of views designed to inform the spectator about Southern California and to attract him hither.   Toward the end of May, Payne left for the East, taking with him a first class stereopticon and nearly a thousand lantern slides of the old wet-plate process, the views being the product of Payne's own skill and labor.</P>
023.sgm:<P>For some time prior to 1876, the suitable observance here of the anniversary of the Nation's independence had been frequently discussed, and when James J. Ayers called a meeting of citizens in the County Court House, on the evening of April 29th, and another on May 6th, it was decided to celebrate the Fourth of July in a manner worthy of the occasion.  Committees were appointed to arrange the details; and when the eventful day arrived, the largest throngs in the City's history assembled to give vent to their patriotism.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The procession--led by Grand Marshal H. M. Mitchell, assisted by Marshals Eugene Meyer, Francisco Guirado, John F. Godfrey and Otto von Ploennies, mounted on the best-groomed steeds of the Fashion Stables--formed towards ten o'clock and was half an hour in passing the corner of Temple, Spring and Main streets.  The Woods Opera House Band, the Los Angeles Guard and the Los Angeles Rifleros assisted. The parade wended its tortuous way from the Aliso Mills in the northeast to the Round House in the south.</P>
023.sgm:<P>An interesting feature of the march was the division of Mexican War Veterans.  Forty-two of these battle-scarred soldiers, a number of whom had become prominent in civic life, lined up, among them General George Stoneman, Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>522</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>500</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>For this local celebration of the Centennial, streets, public buildings, stores and private residences were beautifully decorated, portraits of Washington being everywhere.  Hellman, Haas &amp; Company, S. C. Foy, the Los Angeles Social Club and H. Newmark &amp; Company were among those who especially observed the day.  There was a triple arch on Main Street, with a center span thirty feet wide and thirty feet high, and statues of Washington, Grant and others.  The railroad depots and trains were also fittingly adorned; and at the residence and grounds of Consular Agent Moerenhaut, the Stars and Stripes, with the French tricolor, were displayed under the legend, "Friends Since One Hundred Years."  The Pico House was perhaps the most elegantly adorned, having a column, a flagstaff and a Liberty cap, with the enthusiastic legends:</P>
023.sgm:<P>1776.  1876.  Now for 1976!</P>
023.sgm:<P>To the patrons of the Pico House: May you live 100 years!</P>
023.sgm:<P>No North, no South, no East, no West!</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Round House gardens having been reached, the literary and musical program began.  The band played <HI REND="italics">Hail Columbia!</HI>
023.sgm: and General Phineas Banning, the presiding officer, introduced the Rev. T. T. Packard who delivered the opening prayer. <illus entity="a023-0122" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">William Pridham</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0123" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Benjamin Hayes</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0124" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Isaac Lankershim</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0125" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Rabbi A. W. Edelman</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0126" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Fort Street, from the Chaparral on Fort Hill</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>523</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>501</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Banning then made a short patriotic address; <HI REND="italics">America</HI>
023.sgm: was sung by several church choirs of the city; Professor Thomas A. Saxon read the <HI REND="italics">Declaration of Independence</HI>
023.sgm:; the choirs sang the <HI REND="italics">Red, White and Blue</HI>
023.sgm:; and J. J. Ayers, as poet of the occasion, read an original poem.  <HI REND="italics">Yankee Doodle</HI>
023.sgm:<P>When the mournful zephyrs, passing the plain where Marathon once stood, shall find no mound to kiss; when the arch of Titus shall have been obliterated; the Colosseum crumbled into antique dust; the greatness of Athens degenerated into dim tradition; Alexander, C&aelig;sar and Napoleon forgotten; the memories of Independence Hall shall still bloom in imperishable freshness!</P>
023.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of the oration, Jacob A. Moerenhout, the venerable French representative, spoke very appropriately of the relation of France to America in our great Revolutionary struggle; after which the Rev. A. W. Edelman concluded the exercises by pronouncing the benediction.  The celebration had a soul in it and no doubt compensated in patriotic sincerity for what it may have lacked in classical elegance.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Incidental to this commemoration, the Literary Committee having in charge the exercises had named Don J. J. Warner, Judge Benjamin Hayes and Dr. J. P. Widney a sub-committee to compile the most interesting data about the old town from the Spanish occupancy by the founding of the Mission at San Gabriel; and on the Fourth of July, or within less than two months after their appointment, the historians produced their report--to which I have already referred  a document, known as <HI REND="italics">An Historical Sketch of Los Angeles County, California</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>524</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>502</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the summer of 1875, fifteen hundred men began to dig their way into the San Fernando Mountains; and about the end of the first week in September, 1876, the long tunnel was completed-a bore six thousand nine hundred and forty feet in length, beginning twenty-seven miles from Los Angeles. During the course of construction, vast quantities of candles, generally the best, were employed to furnish light for the workmen, H. Newmark &amp; Company supplying most of the illuminants.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Some of the facts concerning the planning, building and attendant celebration of this now famous tunnel should be peculiarly interesting to the Angele&ntilde;o of to-day, as also to his descendants, for not only do they possess intrinsic historical importance, but they exemplify as well both the comparative insignificance of Los Angeles at the time when this great engineering feat was so successfully undertaken and the occasional futility of human prophecies, even when such prophecies are voiced by those most fitted at the time to deliver them.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have already mentioned the interview which Governor Downey and I had with Collis P. Huntington, in San Francisco, when we presented the arguments of Los Angeles for the extension of the Southern Pacific Railroad to this point. The greatest difficulty, from an engineering standpoint, was the boring and finishing of the San Fernando tunnel, and the then small town of Los Angeles was compelled to pass through much discouragement before she became the Southern terminus of the road, a selection of the most vital importance to her future prosperity and growth.  In the first place, a Mr. Rice, whose office was in Temple Block, represented the Railroad Company in telling the citizens of Los Angeles that if they did not appropriate toward the undertaking two hundred and fifty thousand dollars--then an enormous sum of money  Los Angeles would be left out of the line of travel and the railroad would be built so as to pass several miles inland, compelling our city to make a choice between putting in a branch to connect with the main line or resigning any claim she might have to become a railroad center.  In fact, this is precisely what occurred in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>525</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>503</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>When this threat or warning was delivered, an agitation immediately set in, both to collect the money that the Company demanded and to influence its management to include Los Angeles on the main line.  Judge R. M. Widney was one of the prominent figures in the local campaign.  The Chamber of Commerce, through its President, Solomon Lazard, also buckled on its armor in behalf of Los Angeles and entered the lists. Notably it sent a telegram to the United States Senate  the railroad, as is well known, having received land-grants of inestimable value from Congress and being considered, therefore, susceptible to influence; and this telegram was penned with such classical eloquence that it poured seventy-five dollars into the coffers of the telegraph company.  The net result of the campaign was the decision of the Railroad Company to include Los Angeles among the favored stations.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The politics of the situation having thus been satisfactorily settled, the engineering problems began to cast their shadows. General Stoneman stated that the tunnel bore could not be effected, an opinion which was by no means uncommon at that time.  Others again said that people would never be induced to travel through so long a tunnel; still another set of pessimists stated that the winter rains would cause it to cave in, to which Senator Stanford laconically replied that it was "too damned dry in Southern California for any such catastrophe."  This railroad and the tunnel, however, were fortunately to become one of those happy instances in which the proposals of man and the disposals of the Lord are identical, for in course of time both found their completion under the able direction of railroad genius, assisted in no small way by the gangs of thousands of Orientals who did the hard road-work.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As in the case with practically every Southern Californian enterprise, the finishing of this great undertaking was accompanied by a rather elaborate celebration.  A delegation of San Francisco citizens, one of whom was my brother, met at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>526</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>504</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Newhall a delegation from Los Angeles including S. Lazard<ANCHOR ID="n34-34">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-34">Died, January 13, 1915, in the ninetieth year of his age.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Shortly after the completion of the Southern Pacific Railroad the people of Los Angeles became very much dissatisfied with the Company's method of handling their business, and especially with the arbitrary rulings of J. C. Stubbs in making freight rates.  On one occasion, for example, a shipper approched Stubbs and asked for a rate on a carload of potatoes from San Francisco to Tucson.  Stubbs asked him how much he expected to pay for the potatoes and what he would get for them; and having obtained this information, he allowed the shipper a small profit and took the balance for freight.  This dissatisfaction on the part of an enterprising community accustomed to some liberality found in time such an open expression that Charles F. Crocker, one of the original promoters of the Central, and one of the owners of the Southern Pacific, who had occasionally visited Los Angeles, came down to confer with the City Council at a public meeting.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Crocker, as President of the Central Pacific Railroad Company, was a very important man, and I felt at the time that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>527</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>505</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>After a while, Crocker was allowed to speak; and in the course of his remarks he stated that the Southern Pacific Railroad Company had invested a great amount of money, and that it was necessary to realize proper interest on their expenditure.  Thereupon, Isaac W. Lord, one of the spectators, after whom Lordsburg was named, arose and begged to tell a little story.  An ambitious individual, he said, who had once built a hotel on the desert at a cost of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, was without a guest until, one day, a lone traveler rode across the burning sands and put up for the night at the hostelry.  Next morning, the stranger was handed a bill for seventy-five dollars; and upon inquiring why so much had been charged, the proprietor explained that he had spent one hundred and fifty thousand dollars in building the hotel; that the stranger was, thus far, the first and only guest; and that, therefore, he must pay his part of the interest on the investment.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The story, to Mr. Crocker's discomfiture, brought a loud laugh; and it was then, before the laughter had died out, that the famous railroad man, resuming the debate, made his memorable threat:</P>
023.sgm:<P>"If this be the spirit in which Los Angeles proposes to deal with the railroad upon which the town's very vitality must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>528</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>506</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:depend, <HI REND="italics">I will make grass to grow in the streets of your city!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>And, considering the fate that has befallen more than one community which coldly regarded the proposals of these same California railroads, Crocker's warning was not without significance.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Crocker incident having left matters in a worse state than before, Colonel Eldridge E. Hewitt, agent for the Southern Pacific, brought Governor Stanford to my office and introduced him.  Stanford stated that his road would soon be in operation and expressed the hope that H. Newmark &amp; Company would patronize it.  I told Stanford that our relations with the steamship company had always been very pleasant, but that we would be very glad to give his line a share of our business, if rates were made satisfactory.  At the same time, the Southern Pacific Railroad Company, having secured control of the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad, issued circulars announcing that steamer freight would henceforth be classified.  As this was a violent departure from established precedents, it foreshadowed trouble; and, sure enough, rates moved upward from eight to as high as thirty dollars a ton, according to classification.</P>
023.sgm:<P>H. Newmark &amp; Company and Hellman, Haas &amp; Company, who were the heaviest shippers in Los Angeles, together with a number of other merchants, decided to charter a steamer or sailing vessel.  James McFadden, of Santa Ana, owned the tramp steamboat <HI REND="italics">Newport</HI>
023.sgm: which plied between San Francisco and Newport Landing, in an irregular lumber-trade; and this, after some negotiations, we engaged for three years, on the basis of three dollars per ton.  Having made this contract, we entered valiantly into the contest; and, in order suitably to impress the Southern Pacific Railroad Company with our importance, we loaded the vessel, on her initial trip, to the gunwales.  Now cargo, on arriving at Wilmington at that time, used to be loaded into cars, brought to Los Angeles and left in the freight shed until we removed it at our convenience; but when the <HI REND="italics">Newport</HI>
023.sgm: arrived, the vessel was unloaded and the merchandise put into the warehouse at Wilmington, where it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>529</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>507</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Subsequent to this first shipment, we adopted a more conservative policy, in spite of which our troubles were to multiply.  The Southern Pacific Railroad Company named a rate of three dollars a ton in less than carload lots between San Francisco and way-stations, and this induced many of our country customers to trade in that city.  At the same time, the Company carried many lines between San Francisco and Los Angeles free of charge, potatoes and other heavy items being favored.  The mask was now discarded, and it became evident that we were engaged in a life-and-death struggle.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Had there been a united front, the moral effect might have sustained us in the unequal contest; but unfortunately, H. Newmark &amp; Company were abandoned by every shipper in Los Angeles except Hellman, Haas &amp; Company, and we soon found that fighting railroad companies recalled the adage, "The game's not worth the candle."  At the end of ten months of sacrifices, we invoked the assistance of my former partner and friend, Phineas Banning, who was then associated with the Southern Pacific; and he visited the officials in San Francisco in our behalf.  Stanford told him that the Railroad Company, rather than make a single concession, would lose a million dollars in the conflict; but Banning finally induced the Company to buy the <HI REND="italics">Newport</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1876-77, a drought almost destroyed the sheep industry in Southern California.  As a last resort, the ranchers, seeing the exhausted condition of their ranges, started to drive their sheep to Arizona, New Mexico or Utah; but most of them fell by the way.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>530</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>508</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Again, we had the coincidence of drought and a fatal epidemic of smallpox, not only leaving death in its wake, but incidentally damaging business a good deal.  Mrs. Juan Lanfranco was one of those who died; Mr. and Mrs. Solomon Lazard lost a son, and a grocer by the name of Henry Niedecken, who had a little frame store where the Angelus Hotel now stands, as well as many others, succumbed.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>531</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>509</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXV<LB>THE REVIVAL OF THE SOUTHLAND<LB>1877-1880</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>THE late seventies were marked by an encouraging awakening of national energy and a growing desire on the part of the Angele&ntilde;o, notwithstanding the excessive local dullness, to bring the outside world a pace or two nearer; as a result of which, things began to simmer, while there was an unmistakable manifestation on the part of those at places more or less remote to explore the almost unknown Southwest, especially that portion bordering on the Pacific.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have already noted, with varying dates, the time when patents to land were issued.  These dates remind me of the long years during which some of the ranch owners had to wait before they received a clear title to their vast estates.  Although, as I have said, the Land Commission was in session during the first decade of my residence here, it was a quarter of a century and more, in some cases, after the Commissioners had completed their reports before the Washington authorities issued the desired patents confirming the Mexican grants; and by that time, not a few of those who had owned the ranches at the beginning of the American occupancy were dead and buried.</P>
023.sgm:<P>William Mulholland, who was really trained for navigation and had followed the sea for four or five years, steered for Los Angeles in 1877 and associated himself with the Los Angeles Water Company, giving his attention especially to hydraulic engineering and passing as it were in 1902, with the rest of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>532</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>510</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On March 22d, the Common Council changed the name of Nigger Alley, in the adobe days known as Calle de los Negros, to that of Los Angeles Street; and thus faded away a designation of Los Angeles' early gambling district long familiar to old settlers.  The same year, the City marshalship, which J. J. Carrillo had held during 1875-76, was discontinued, and J. F. Gerkins was appointed the first Chief of Police.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Part of the property included in the blanket mortgage given by Temple &amp; Workman to E. J. Baldwin was Temple Block; and when this was sold at sheriff's sale in 1877, H. Newmark &amp; Company decided to acquire it if they could.  Dan Freeman, acting for Baldwin, was our only competitor; and after a somewhat spirited contest, the property was knocked down to us.  In 1909, we sold Temple Block to the City of Los Angeles. Quite a large contribution of money was then made by adjoining landowners, with the understanding that the site would form the nucleus for a civic center; but thus far this solemn promise remains unfulfllled--more's the shame, especially since the obligation is precisely coincidental with the City's needs.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1877, Colonel R. S. Baker erected the block bearing his name on the site of the historic adobe home of Don Abel Stearns, the walls of which structure, when demolished, killed two of the workmen.  This building, the most modern of that period, immediately became the scene of much retail activity; and three wide-awake merchants-Eug&egrave;ne Germain, George D. Rowan and Rev. B. F. Coulter-moved into it.  Germain was the first of these to arrive in Los Angeles, coming in 1870 and, soon after, establishing several trading posts along the line of the Southern Pacific during its construction through Arizona.  One day, while inspecting branches in this wild and woolly region, Germain ran into a party of cowboys who were out gunning; and just for a little diversion, they took to peppering the vicinity of his feet, which attention persuaded him into a high-step less graceful than alert.  Germain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>533</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>511</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:came to occupy many positions of trust, being appointed, in 1889, Commissioner from California to the Paris Exposition, and later American Consul at Zurich, Switzerland. Next among the tenants was George D. Rowan, who opened a grocery store in the Strelitz Block, opposite the old Jail, remaining there until the completion of Baker's building; thus supplying another illustration of the tendency then predominating to gravitate toward the extreme northern end of the town.  In several enterprises, Rowan was a pioneer: he brought from Chicago the first phaeton seen on our streets; and in conjunction with Germain, he inaugurated the shipping of California products, in carload lots, to the Eastern market.  He was also one of the first to use pennies here. Withdrawing from the grocery trade, in 1882, he busied himself with real estate until 1892, when he retired.  A public-spirited man, he had the greatest confidence in the future of Los Angeles, and was instrumental in subdividing much important acreage, including the block between Sixth, Seventh, Hill and Olive streets, which he sold in sixty-foot lots at prices as low as six hundred dollars each. He was a prime mover in having the name of Fort Street altered to that of Broadway, certainly a change of questionable propriety considering the origin of the old name.  Rowan died on September 7th, 1901.  His sons, R. A. and P. D. Rowan, constitute the firm of R. A. Rowan &amp; Company.  Reverend Coulter, father of Frank M. Coulter,<ANCHOR ID="n35-35">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n35-35">Died on October 27th, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>R. F. Del Valle was born in December, 1854, at the Plaza ancestral home, where, before the family's removal to Camulos <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, I frequently saw him playing when I attended the political councils at his father's home.  By the by, I believe that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>534</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>512</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A murder case of the late seventies was notable on account of the tragic fate of two indirect participants.  On October 10th, G. M. Waller, custodian of the land company's bath-house at Santa Monica, detected Victor Fonck, who had been warned to keep off the premises, in the act of erecting a private bathhouse on the beach, and shot him in the leg, from which wound, after two days, Fonck died.  In his defense, Waller claimed that, as watchman, he was acting under orders from E. S. Parker, the land company s agent.  Waller was found guilty of involuntary homicide and sentenced on January 25th, 1878, to one year in the Penitentiary.  Parker, on the other hand, was convicted of murder in the second degree, and on March 8th was sentenced to ten years' imprisonment.   This severe and unexpected punishment caused a mental excitement from which Parker soon died; and, but a few days later, his broken-hearted wife fell dead.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Annual public fairs were centers of social life as late as the middle of the seventies, one being held, about 1876 or 1877, in the old Alameda Street depot, which, decorated with evergreens and flowers, had been transformed into a veritable garden. With succeeding years, these displays, for some time in Horticultural Hall on Temple Street, came to be more and more enchanting.  Still later, one or more flower festivals were held in Hazard's Pavilion on Fifth Street, near Olive, that of 1889 in particular attracting, in the phraseology of a local newspaper, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>535</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>513</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On February 1st, 1878, twenty-three years after the Odd Fellows first organized here, their newly-constructed hall in the Oxarart Block at 108 North Spring Street was dedicated with elaborate ceremonies.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About 1878, Captain George J. Clarke, who had been Postmaster from 1866 to 1873, and who lived well out of town, offered me sixty feet adjoining my home on Fort Street, a site now occupied by the J. W. Robinson Company.  He asked one hundred dollars a foot for the Fort Street frontage alone, but as only sixteen dollars a foot had been paid for the full depth to Hill Street of the piece I already owned, I refused to purchase; nor was I persuaded even when he threatened to erect a livery stable next to my house.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Another item respecting land values, and how they impressed me: in 1878, Nadeau purchased, for twenty thousand dollars, the site of the Nadeau Hotel, whereupon I told him that he was crazy; but later events proved him to have been a better judge than I.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in the late seventies, Jerry Illich started a chop-house on North Main Street and prospered so well that in time he was able to open a larger and much finer establishment which he called the Maison Doree.  This restaurant was one of the best of the time, and became the <HI REND="italics">rendezvous</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In April the Public Library was transferred to the care of the City. In the beginning, as I have stated, a fee of five dollars was charged to patrons; somewhat later, it is my recollection, a legislative enactment permitted a small addition to the tax-rate for the partial support of this worthy enterprise, and this municipal assistance enabled the directors to carry the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>536</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>514</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On September 25th, General John C. Fr&eacute;mont arrived in Los Angeles on his way to Arizona, of which Territory he had been appointed Governor; and accompanied by his wife and daughter, he was driven at once to the St. Charles Hotel. There, in response to a demonstration by the citizens, he referred to the great changes which had taken place here during his absence of thirty years.  Two days later, General Fr&eacute;mont and family left for Yuma, the explorer traveling that route by means of the iron horse for the first time</P>
023.sgm:<P>Benjamin Franklin Taylor, the lecturer and author, visited Los Angeles, in 1878, and wrote the sympathetic book, <HI REND="italics">Between the Gates</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Some new ordinances regulating vegetable venders having been passed in the winter of 1878-79, the Chinese peddlers went on a strike, and for some time refused, to the inconvenience of their dependent customers, to supply any truck-farm products.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During the Postmastership of Colonel Isaac R. Dunkelberger, the Post Office was moved, in 1879, to the Oxarart Block on North Spring Street near First.  There it continued for eight years, contributing much toward making the neighborhood an important commercial center.</P>
023.sgm:<P>M. J. Newmark, having sold to his partners his interest in the firm of H. Newmark &amp; Company, left Los Angeles, in 1879, for San Francisco, after building a residence on Spring Street next to the southwest corner of Spring and Seventh and adjoining the dwellings owned by Kaspare Cohn and M. A. Newmark.  Each of these houses stood on a sixty-foot lot; and to protect themselves from possibly unpleasant neighbors, the holders had bought the corner of Seventh and Spring streets for four hundred and twenty-five dollars.  On his departure, M. J. Newmark committed his affairs to my care, desiring to dispose of his place; and I offered it to I.N. Van Nuys for seven thousand five hundred dollars, which represented the cost of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>537</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>515</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Long before there was any necessity for cutting Sixth Street through, east of Main, George Kerckhoff (who, in 1879, had brought his family from Indiana) bought the six acres formerly belonging to the intrepid pioneer, J. J. Warner, and, in the midst of this pretty orchard, built the home in which he continued to reside until 1896, when he died.  William G. Kerckhoff, a son, came with his father and almost immediately engaged in the lumber business with James Cuzner.  An ordinary man might have found this enterprise sufficient, especially as it expanded with the building up of our Southland communities; but this was not so with the younger Kerckhoff, who in 1892 entered the ice business, after which effort, within ten years, he evolved the San Gabriel Electric Company.  Henry E. Huntington then associated himself with this enterprise, somewhat later buying that part of the Kerckhoff property on which the Huntington Building, opposite the Kerckhoff, now stands; and as a result of the working together of two such minds, huge electrical enterprises culminated in the Pacific Light and Power Company.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The year 1879 was tragic in my family.  On the 20th of January, our son Philip, only nine years of age, died of diphtheria; and a trifle more than three weeks later, on February 11th, Leo, a baby of three years, succumbed to the same treacherous disease.  Barely had the grave closed on the second, when a daughter became seriously ill, and after her recovery, in a fit of awful consternation we fled the plague-infected house and the city, taking with us to San Francisco, Edward, a son of five years.  But alas! hardly had we returned to town, when he also died, on March 17th, 1879.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In May, Judge R. M. Widney broached to the Rev. A. M.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>538</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>516</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A. B. Chapman, about 1879, joined C. T. Paul in opening a hardware store at 12 Commercial Street, with a little tin-shop opposite; and they soon introduced here the first gasoline stoves, to which the insurance companies at once seriously objected.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Probably the earliest Los Angeles newspaper published in French was a weekly, <HI REND="italics">L' Union Nouvelle</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Exceeding the limits of animated editorial debate into which the rival journalists had been drawn in the heated campaign of 1879, William A. Spalding, a reporter on the <HI REND="italics">Evening Express</HI>
023.sgm:, waited for Joseph D. Lynch, the editor of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm:, at about eleven o'clock in the morning of August 16th, and peppered away with a bull-dog pistol at his rival, as the latter, who had just left the Pico House, was crossing Spring Street from Temple Block to go to the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>539</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>517</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel G. Wiley Wells arrived in 1879, after a Civil War career in which his left arm was permanently crippled.  He also served as United States District Attorney in Mississippi, where he prosecuted many of the Ku-Klux Klan, and as United States Consul-General to China, where he had a varied experience with men and affairs.  With A. Brunson, he formed the law partnership of Brunson &amp; Wells, having offices in the Baker Block.  The next year, Bradner W. Lee, a nephew of Wells, who had arrived here in 1879, was added to the firm. After fifteen years' practice in the local courts, during which time Wells became a noted figure, he retired to private life at Santa Monica, disposing of his extensive law library, consisting of some six thousand volumes, to his successors, Works &amp; Lee.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henry Milner Mitchell, to whom I have referred as assisting to run down Vasquez, reached Los Angeles by way of Nicaragua in 1868, and was successively a surveyor, a reporter, a law student and, finally, from 1878 to 1879, Sheriff.  In 1879, he was admitted to practice before the Supreme Court of California, and in the same year, he married the eldest daughter of Andrew Glassell.  Eventually he met a very tragic death: while hunting near the scene of Vasquez's capture, he was shot by a friend who mistook him for a deer.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel Henry Harrison Markham, a New Yorker, pitched his tent in Los Angeles and Pasadena in 1879, and was elected to Congress from the Sixth District, defeating R. F. Del Valle. He succeeded in getting one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for a public building and appropriations for Wilmington and other harbors; and he also aided in establishing army headquarters at Los Angeles for Arizona, New Mexico and Southern California.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carl Seligman left Germany for America in 1879 and spent a year in San Francisco, after which he removed to Tucson, Arizona.  And there he remained, engaged in the wholesale and retail grocery business until, on December 6th, 1885, he married my daughter Ella, following which event he bought an interest in the firm of M. A. Newmark &amp; Company.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>540</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>518</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The early eighties witnessed a commercial development so marked as to remind one of the proverbial grass that could be heard to grow.  During an entire century, business (centered, like social life, more or less about the Plaza) had crawled southward to First Street, a distance of but three or four blocks; and now, in five or six years, trade passed First, extended along both Main and Spring streets and reached almost to, or just beyond Second.  At this time, the Baker Block, at the corner of North Main and Arcadia streets, which contained the first town ticket-office of the Southern Pacific Railroad, was still the center of the retail trade of Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>And yet some idea of the backwardness of the city, even then, may be obtained from the fact that, in 1880, on the southwest corner of Spring and Second streets where the Hollenbeck Hotel was later built, stood a horse corral; while the old adobe on the lot at the corner of First and Spring streets, which was torn down later to make room for the Hotel Nadeau, was also still there.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Obadiah Truax Barker settled in Los Angeles in 1880 and, with Otto Mueller, started a furniture and carpet business, known as Barker &amp; Mueller's, at 113 North Spring Street. Strange as it seems, however, the newcomers found themselves too far from the business district; and, on Mueller's retiring, O. T. Barker &amp; Sons moved to a store near the Pico House. Now the firm is Barker Brothers.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In fond recollection, the homely cheerfulness of the old-time adobe recurs again and again.  The eighties, however, were characterized by another form of dwelling, fashionable and popular; some examples of which, half-ruined, are still to be seen.  This was the frame house, large and spacious with wide, high, curving verandas, semicircular bay-windows, towers and cupolas. Flower-bordered lawns generally encircled these residences; there were long, narrow hallways and more spare bedrooms than the less intimate hospitality of to-day suggests or demands.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On January 1st, 1880, the District Court of Los Angeles was abolished to give way to the County Court; on which occasion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>541</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>519</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The first cement pavement in the city was laid on Main Street north of First by a man named Floyd.  Having bought Temple Block, we were thinking of surrounding it with a wooden sidewalk.  Floyd recommended cement, asking me, at the same time, to inspect a bit of pavement which he had just put down.  I did so, and took his advice; and from this small beginning has developed the excellent system of paving now enjoyed by Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1880, there visited Southern California a man who not only had a varied and most interesting past, but who was destined to have an important future.  This was Abbot Kinney, a blood relation of Emerson, Holmes and old General Harrison, and a student of law and medicine, commission merchant, a botanical expert, cigarette manufacturer and member of the United States Geological Survey; a man, too, who had traveled through, and lived long in Europe, Asia and Africa; and who, after seeing most of our own Northwest, was on his way to settle in Florida in search of health.  While in San Francisco he heard of the recently-formed Sierra Madre Colony, whither he made haste to go; and after a month or two there, he liked it so well that he decided to remain on the gentle slope, found there a home and lay out a farm.  At that time we had a customer by the name of Seabury, who owned one hundred and sixty acres along the foothills; and this land he had mortgaged to us to secure a note.  When Kinney came, he bought a place adjoining Seabury's, and this led him to take over the mortgage.  In due season, he foreclosed and added the land to his beautiful property, which he named <HI REND="italics">Kinneloa</HI>
023.sgm:<P>All Kinney's combined experience was brought to bear to make his estate pleasurable, not only to himself but for the casual visitor and passer-by; and in a short time he became well known.  He also was made a Special Commissioner of the United States to examine into the condition of the Mission Indians of Southern California; and on this commission he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>542</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>520</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:served with Helen Hunt Jackson, so famous as <HI REND="italics">H. H</HI>
023.sgm:. or, especially in California, as the author of <HI REND="italics">Ramona</HI>
023.sgm:, visiting with her all the well-known Indian <HI REND="italics">rancher&iacute;as</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the end of April, F. P. F. Temple passed away at the Merced Ranch and was buried in the family burying-ground at La Puente.  This recalls to mind that, in early days, many families owned a hallowed acre where, as summoned one by one, they were laid side by side in rest eternal.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On May 16th, John W. Bixby died, at his Long Beach estate.  About 1871 he had entered his brother Jotham's service, supervising the sheep ranch; and to John Bixby's foresight was attributed, first the renting and later the purchase of the great ranch controlled, through foreclosure of mortgage, by Michael Reese.  A year or two before Bixby's death, five thousand acres were set aside for the town of Los Alamitos, but John never saw the realization of his dream to establish there a settlement.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It was on the eighteenth of the same month that my brother found it necessary to visit Carlsbad for the benefit of his health, and the decision occasioned my removal to San Francisco to look after his affairs.  What was expected to be a brief absence really lasted until September, 1882, when he and his family returned to America and San Francisco, and I came back to Los Angeles, with which, of course, I had continued in close communication.  During our absence, my wife's father, Joseph Newmark, died rather suddenly on October 19th, 1881.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reference has been made to the movement, in 1859, for the division of California into two states.  In the spring of 1880, John G. Downey republished the original act and argued that it was still valid; and Dr. J. P. Widney contended that the geographical, topograhical, climatic and commercial laws were all working for the separation of California into two distinct civil organizations.  Not long after, at a mass-meeting in Los Angeles called to forward the improvement of Wilmington <illus entity="a023-0127" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Antonio Franco and Mariana Coronel From an oil painting in the Coronel Collection</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0128" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Fourth Street, Looking West from Main</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0129" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Timms Landing From a print of the late fifties</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0130" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Santa Catalina, in the Middle Eighties</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>543</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>521</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1880, Jotham Bixby &amp; Company sold four thousand acres of their celebrated Cerritos Ranch to an organization known as the American Colony, and in a short time Willmore City, named after W. E. Willmore and the origin of Long Beach, was laid out and widely advertised.  Willmore, a teacher, had been fairly successful as a colonizer in Fresno County; but after all his dreaming, hard work and investments, he lost all that he had, like so many others, and died broken-hearted.  The earliest recollection I have of a storekeeper at Long Beach was my customer, W. W. Lowe.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At an early period in the development of Santa Monica, as we have seen, Senator Jones built a wharf there; but the Los Angeles &amp; Independence Railroad, expected to become the outlet on the Pacific Coast of a supposedly great mining district in Inyo County, never reached farther east than Los Angeles.  The Southern Pacific Railroad Company, desiring to remove this competition, obtained possession of the new road, razed the warehouse and condemned and half dismantled the wharf; and by setting up its terminus at Wilmington, it transferred there the greater part of its shipping and trade.  By 1880, Santa Monica, to-day so prosperous, had shrunk to but three hundred and fifty inhabitants.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Competition compelled us, in 1880, to put traveling salesmen into the field--an innovation we introduced with reluctance, involving as it did no little additional expense.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Near the end of August, a Citizens' Committee was appointed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>544</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>522</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the midst of his successive Greenback campaigns, General Ben. F. Butler sojourned for a few days, in 1880, in Los Angeles and was the recipient of many attentions.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At the beginning of this decade, the Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railway was extended to Timms' Landing, the well-known old shipping point; and San Pedro then began to grow in earnest, both. on the bluff and in the lowlands bordering on the bay.  Wharves were projected; and large vessels, such as would have startled the earlier shippers, yet none too large at that, made fast to their moorings.  But the improvement of yesterday must make way for that of to-day, and even now the Harbor Commissioners are razing historic Timms' Point.  Penning again this familiar cognomen, I am reminded of what, I dare say, has been generally forgotten, that the Bay of Avalon was also once called Timms' Landing or Cove--after A. W. Timms, under-officer in the United States Navy--and that the name was changed prior to the Bannings' purchase of Catalina.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Frequent reference has been made to those who, in one way or another, sought to infuse new commercial life here and more rapidly to expand the city; but, after all, George Lehman, of whom I have already spoken, was perhaps <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
023.sgm: pioneer local boomer before that picturesque word had become incorporated in the Angele&ntilde;o's vocabulary.  Nor were his peculiarities in this direction entirely confined to booming, for he did considerable buying as well.  Lehman's operations, however, most unfortunately for himself, were conducted at too early a period, and his optimism, together with his extensive, unimproved holdings, wrought his downfall. Besides the Round House and gardens, he owned real estate which would now represent enormous value, in proof of which I have only to mention a few of his possessions at that time: the southwest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>545</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>523</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Lehman soon found himself beyond his depth and defaulted in the payment of both principal and interest.  Not only that, but with a complacency and a confidence in the future that were sublime, he refused to sell a single foot of land, and Lazard Fr&eacute;res with a worthy desire, natural to bankers, to turn a piece of paper into something more negotiable, foreclosed the mortgage, in 1879, and shut the gates of the Garden of Paradise forever; and a sheriff's sale was advertised for the purpose of concluding this piece of financial legerdemain.  I attended the sale, and still distinctly remember with much amusement some of the incidents.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The vociferous auctioneer mounted the box or barrel provided for him and opened the program by requesting an offer for the corner of Hill and Second streets, a lot one hundred and twenty by one hundred and sixty feet in size.  Nor did he request in vain.</P>
023.sgm:<P>One of the heroes of the occasion was Louis Mesmer, a friend of Lehman, whose desire it was to take a talking part in the proceedings, force up the prices and so help the latter. Amidst the familiar, "Going, going, going!" accordingly, the bidding began and, under the incentive of Mesmer's bullish activities, the figures soon reached four hundred dollars, the last bidder being Eugene Meyer, local agent for the mortgagee. At this juncture Mesmer, in his enthusiasm, doubled the bid to eight hundred dollars, expecting, of course, to induce someone to raise the price, already high for that day, still higher.</P>
023.sgm:<P>But "the best-laid schemes o' mice an' men gang aft a-gley." How eagerly Mesmer awaited the fruition of his shrewd manipulation! how he listened in hopeful anticipation to the repeated, "Going, going, going!" of the auctioneer!  In vain, however, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>546</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>524</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Mesmer had bought, for more than it was worth, a piece of property which he did not want, a catastrophe realized as well by all the others present as it was patent to the victim himself. The crowd relished keenly the ludicrous situation in which Mesmer found himself, encumbered as he was with an investment which he had had no intention of making; and throughout the remainder of the contest he was distinguished only by his silence.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Poor old George!  His vision was accurate: Los Angeles was to become great, but her splendid expansion was delayed too long for him to realize his dreams.  When Lehman died, he was buried in a pauper's grave; and toward the end of the eighties, the adobe Round House, once such a feature of George Lehman's Garden of Paradise, was razed to make way for needed improvements.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have spoken of the intolerable condition of the atmosphere in the Council Chamber when Charles Crocker made his memorable visit to Los Angeles to consult with the City Fathers. In the eighties, when the Common Council met in the southeast corner of the second floor of Temple Block, the same objectionable use of tobacco prevailed, with the result that the worthy Aldermen could scarcely be distinguished twenty-five feet away from the rough benches on which sat the equally beclouded spectators.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Doubtless the atmosphere of the court room was just as foul when the Mayor, as late at least as 1880, passed judgment each morning, sitting as a Justice, on the crop of disorderlies of the preceding night.  Then not infrequently some neighbor or associate of the Mayor himself, caught in the police dragnet, appeared among the drowsy defendants!</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>547</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>525</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVI<LB>CENTENARY OF THE CITY-ELECTRIC LIGHT<LB>1881-1884</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>THE year 1881 opened with what, for Los Angeles, was a curious natural phenomenon-snow falling in February and covering the streets and plains with a white mantle.  So rare was the novelty that many residents then saw the oddly-shaped flakes for the first time.  It was about that time, according to my recollection, that another attempt was made to advertise Los Angeles through her far-famed climate, an effort which had a very amusing termination.  Prominent men of our city invited the California Editorial Association, of which Frank Pixley of the <HI REND="italics">Argonaut</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In February, Nathaniel C. Carter, to whom I have referred as a pioneer in arranging railroad excursions for tourists coming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>548</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>526</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1881, J. M. Guinn, who for a decade or more had been Principal of the schools at Anaheim, was made Superintendent of Los Angeles City Schools.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A tragedy attracted unusual attention in the early eighties, owing, in part, to the social connections of the persons involved. Francisco, or Chico Forster, as he was popularly called, the sporting son of Don Juan Forster, had been keeping company with a Se&ntilde;orita Abarta, a young woman of superb stature, whose father was French and mother was Mexican; and having promised to marry her, he betrayed her confidence.  Her insistence that Forster should keep his word had its <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;nouement</HI>
023.sgm: when, one day, at her behest, they visited the Plaza church; but Forster so far endeavored to postpone the ceremony that he returned to the carriage, in which he had left her, declaring that no priest could be found.  Then they drove around until they reached the corner of Commercial and Los Angeles streets, half a block from H. Newmark &amp; Company's.  There the young woman left the carriage, followed by Forster; and on reaching the sidewalk, she said to him in Spanish, " <HI REND="italics">&iquest;Chico, que vas hacer</HI>
023.sgm:?"  ("What are you going to do?") Forster gave some evasive answer, and Se&ntilde;orita Abarta shot him dead. She was arrested and tried; but owing to the expert evidence in her behalf given by Dr. Joseph Kurtz she was exonerated, to the satisfaction of nearly the entire community. Among those who followed the proceedings closely with a view to publishing the dramatic story was George Butler Griffin, traveler and journalist, who, having recently arrived, had joined the staff of the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm:<P>At a meeting in Turnverein Hall, on March 24th, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>549</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>527</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Savarie J., <HI REND="italics">alias</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Fabian was a Frenchman and a jack-at-all-trades doing odd jobs around town, whose temperament and out-spoken way of expressing himself used to produce both amusement and surprise.  On one occasion, when he took offense at the daughter of a prominent family for whom he was working, he sought out the lady of the house and said to her: "Madam, your sons are all right, but <HI REND="italics">your daughters are no good!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Two other names not forgotten by householders of an earlier day in Los Angeles are John Hall and Henry Buddin. The former, whose complexion was as black as his soul was white, came to Los Angeles a great many years ago.  He was a whitewasher by trade and followed this calling for a livelihood, later giving it up to run an express wagon; and I can still see John plying about town and driving in summer between Los Angeles and Santa Monica, his wagon piled high with household effects, as our good citizens moved from one dwelling to another or went on their way to the shore of the sea.  I remember, also, that one day some unnatural parent left a newborn, white infant on John Hall's steps.  He was never able to locate the mother of the little fellow, and therefore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>550</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>528</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On September 5th, at the conclusion of the City's first century, or, more strictly speaking, one hundred years and a day after the founding of Los Angeles, a noteworthy celebration was undertaken.  A population of about twelve thousand was all that Los Angeles then boasted; but visitors added greatly to the crowd, and the town took on a true holiday appearance.  Main Street was decorated with an arch, bearing the inclusive figures, <HI REND="italics">1781-1881</HI>
023.sgm:; and the variegated procession, under the grand marshalship of General George Stoneman, was made up of such vehicles, costumed passengers and riders as suggested at once the motley but interesting character of our city's past.  There were old, creaking <HI REND="italics">carretas</HI>
023.sgm: that had seen service in pioneer days; there were richly-decorated saddles, on which rode gay and expert horsemen; and there were also the more up-to-date and fashionable carriages which, with the advent of transcontinental railroading, had at last reached the Coast.  Two Mexican Indian women--one named Benjamina--alternately scowling and smiling, and declared to be, respectively, one hundred and three and one hundred and fourteen years old, formed a feature of the procession.  Clouds of dust, from the crowding auditors, greeted the orators of the day, who spoke not only in English and Spanish, but also in French; there were festal games and sports characteristic of the olden time; and the celebration concluded with a Spanish <HI REND="italics">baile</HI>
023.sgm:<P>One of the musical celebrities of her time, and a native of Los Angeles of whom the city was justly proud, was Miss Mamie Perry, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William H. Perry. In 1880, she went to Italy and studied under Sangiovanni and in September, 1881, made her <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;but</HI>
023.sgm:, singing in Milan, Florence, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>551</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>529</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Mantua and Bologna the title <HI REND="italics">r&ocirc;le</HI>
023.sgm: of Petrella's opera, <HI REND="italics">Contessa d'Amalfi</HI>
023.sgm:.  In other cities, she attained further distinction.  A musical career was interrupted by her marriage, in 1883, to Charles W. Davis; but, after his untimely death in 1889, Mrs. Perry-Davis returned to Italy, a notable <HI REND="italics">musicale</HI>
023.sgm:<P>When the funeral of President Garfield took place at Washington, on September 27th, his memory was also honored in Los Angeles.  A procession started at two o'clock from Spring Street and marched to the Plaza, Colonel John O. Wheeler acting as Grand Marshal and George E. Gard, Chief of Police, leading the way.  A catafalque, draped with black, star-bedecked silk and green smilax, and surmounted by a shrouded eagle and a little child-Laura Chauvin, daughter of A. C. Chauvin, the grocer--kneeling and representing Columbia lamenting the loss of the martyred chief, was drawn by six horses, followed by the honorary pallbearers and by civic and official bodies.  Judge Volney E. Howard, as President, introduced Dr. J. P. Widney, who read the resolutions of condolence, after which A. Brunson delivered the eulogy. Mrs. Garfield, the President's widow, who first came to winter in California in 1899, finally built her own winter home in Pasadena, in October, 1904.</P>
023.sgm:<P>S. A. and M. A. Hamburger, who were engaged in business in Sacramento, concluded they would do better if they secured the right opening in the Southland; and having persuaded their father, Asher Hamburger, to join them in the new enterprise, they came to Los Angeles in November, 1881, and established their present business, under the firm name of A. Hamburger &amp; Sons.  D. A. Hamburger, who had been reading law, joined them in January, 1883.  For years, until his death on December 2d, 1897, the elder Hamburger participated actively in all the affairs of the concern.  They first opened on Main Street near Requena--close to the popular dry-goods store of Dillon &amp; Kenealy, conducted by Richard Dillon &amp; John <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>552</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>530</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Owen Brown, son of the famous John Brown of Ossawatomie, and long the only survivor of the little party that seized the arsenal at Harpers Ferry, came West late in 1881 and settled with his brother Jason, already at Pasadena.  A horseback trail up one of the neighboring mountains still leads the traveler to speak in friendly spirit of this late pioneer, who died in 1889 and is buried near the foothills.  Five years later, Jason Brown returned to Ohio.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Daily Times</HI>
023.sgm:, a Republican sheet started by Nathan Cole and James Gardiner, began on December 4th to be issued six days in the week.  Both publishers within a month were succeeded by Yarnell, Caystile &amp; Mathes, owners of the <HI REND="italics">Mirror</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the height of the Winter season of 1881-82, when the semi-tropical glory of Southern California was most appealing, Helen Hunt Jackson, exploring the Southwest for materials of value in the study of the Indian, came to Los Angeles and met, as I have already related, Abbot Kinney, himself a student of the aborigines.  She also met Don Ant&oacute;nio F. and Do&ntilde;a Mariana Coronel; and finding in the latter a highly intelligent and affable lady, she passed some hours each day at the hospitable Coronel mansion, driving out there from her hotel and reclining under the broad palm trees.  When Mrs. Jackson first came, with her pencils and note-books, the retiring Se&ntilde;ora (as she used to tell me), having little comprehension of the Eastern lady's ambitious plans, looked with some suspicion on the motives of her enthusiastic visitor; but fortunately this half-distrust <illus entity="a023-0131" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Main Street, Looking North from Sixth, Probably in the Late Seventies</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0132" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">High School, on Pound Cake Hill, about 1873</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0134" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">First Street, Looking East from Hill</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0133" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Temple Court House, after Abandonment by the County</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>553</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>531</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:was dispelled by the warmth of the author's geniality, and Do&ntilde;a Mariana, opening both her house and heart, contributed inestimably to the success of the now famous <HI REND="italics">Ramona</HI>
023.sgm:, most of the rough notes for which were written at a little table on the Coronel veranda.  On Do&ntilde;a Mariana's advice, Mrs. Jackson selected the Del Valle ranchhouse at the Camulos, as the best-preserved and most typical place for a background; although, disappointed in not finding the Del Valles at home, and consequently seeing the imagined headquarters of Ramona for but an hour or two, she was compelled to rely upon her Los Angeles hostess for many of the interesting and singularly accurate details.  On departing from Southern California, Mrs. Jackson wrote for the <HI REND="italics">Century Magazine</HI>
023.sgm: a charming description of life at the old Coronel adobe, whence she never departed without a carriageful of luscious fruit.  She also added her tribute to the attractions of the San Gabriel and San Fernando valleys.  Now the world at large has been made more conversant with the poetical past of Los Angeles for the most part through the novel <HI REND="italics">Ramona</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1882, the telephone was first introduced here, H. Newmark &amp; Company so early subscribing for the service that they were given `phone No. 5, the old River Station having No. 1.  But it may amuse the reader to know that this patronage was not pledged without some misgivings lest the customary noises around the store might interfere with hearing, and so render the curious instrument useless!</P>
023.sgm:<P>On January 20th, Don Juan Forster died at his Santa Margarita rancho, in San Diego County; followed to the grave but a few months later by Mrs. Forster, a sister of Pio Pico.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As rugged as the climate of his native State of Maine, A. T. Currier, after the usual hazardous life of the pioneer on the plains and in mines, proved his good judgment when, in the late sixties, after riding through California in search of the best place to found a home, he selected a ranch close to that of Louis Phillips.  For years, I had pleasant relations with Currier; and I must confess that it was not easy to decide, in 1882, when 532</P>
023.sgm:<P>two such friends as he and Billy Rowland were the opposing candidates, how I should vote for Sheriff.  Currier was elected.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Arroyo Vista--later and more correctly named the Vista del Arroyo--kept by Mrs. Emma C. Bangs, was the only hotel in the Pasadena settlement in 1882, and not infrequently passengers who journeyed there by the narrow, stuffy stage, running every day except Sunday, found on arriving that they could not be accommodated.  So small, in fact, was the hostelry that it became necessary to advertise when all the rooms had been taken.  The stage left for Los Angeles at nine o'clock in the morning and returned at three; and the driver, who was a student of the classics from the East, doled out to the passengers both crossroad data and bits of ancient lore.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fire having destroyed the State Normal School at San Jos&eacute;, in 1880, then the only institution of its kind in California, the Legislature, on March 14th, 1881, provided for the establishing here of a branch; and the following March George Gephard, a German who had come in 1875, raised eight thousand dollars to purchase the orange grove at Bellevue Terrace, near Fifth Street and Charity, for a site.  On August 29th, 1882, the school was opened with Charles H. Allen of San Francisco as first Principal, two other teachers and sixty-one students.  In 1883, Allen was succeeded by President Ira More and the school became an independent institution. Edward T. Pierce, who followed Professor More, retired in 1904.  An instructor there for twenty-two years was Professor Melville Dozier, who made for California, by way of Panam&aacute;, in 1868.  Largely through the devotion of these pioneer teachers, as well as through those qualities which have marked the administration of Dr. Jesse F. Millspaugh, scholar and pedagogue, for nearly the last decade, this Normal School has grown, each year, from a very humble beginning until now it sends out hundreds of men and women into one of the noblest of all professions.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A commencement of the Los Angeles High School of particular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>554</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>533</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel Harrison Gray Otis, who had been a farmer's boy, printer, Union soldier, foreman of the Government printing office, newspaper correspondent and editor, and had first visited Los Angeles late in 1874 or 1875 to familiarize himself with local conditions, on August 1st, 1882 joined the firm of Yarnell, Caystile &amp; Mathes, thereupon assuming the management of both the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: and the weekly <HI REND="italics">Mirror</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the failure of the <HI REND="italics">Evening Republican</HI>
023.sgm:, in 1878-79, Nathan Cole, Jr. started another afternoon daily, the <HI REND="italics">Evening Telegram</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1882, my attention had been called to the public need of proper facilities for obtaining a drink of good water; and no one else having moved in the matter, the following communication was sent, during the heated summer, to the City authorities:</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>555</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>534</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES,</P>
023.sgm:<P>August 25, 1882.</P>
023.sgm:<P>To the Honorable,</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Council of Los Angeles City:</P>
023.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN:--</P>
023.sgm:<P>The undersigned hereby tender to the city a drinking fountain, as per the accompanying cut, to be placed on that portion of Temple Block fronting the junction of Main and Spring streets, for the free use of the public, and subject to the approval of your honorable body.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Respectfully,</P>
023.sgm:<P>H. NEWMARK &amp; Co.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About the same time Stephen H. Mott, Secretary of the Los Angeles City Water Company, promised enough drinking water, free of charge, to supply the fountain.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The unpretentious gift having been accepted, the fountain was installed.  The design included an iron pedestal and column, surmounted by a female figure of attractive proportions; while below, the water issued from the mouth of a lion's head.  Though but seven feet in height and not to be compared with more ambitious designs seen here later, the fountain may have given some incentive to city service and adornment.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It has been shown that Remi Nadeau bought the southwest corner of Spring and First streets at what I then considered a ridiculously high price.  On that site, in 1882, he commenced building the Hotel Nadeau-the first four-story structure in town.  This fact is not likely to escape my memory, since he acquired the necessary funds out of the profit he made in a barley speculation involving the sale, by H. Newmark &amp; Company, of some eighty thousand bags of this cereal;' his gain representing our loss.  It thus happened that I participated in the opening festivities (which began with a banquet and ended with a ball) to a greater extent than, I dare say, the average guest ever suspected.  For <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>556</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>535</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On October 11th occurred the death of Don Manuel Dominguez, his wife surviving him but a few months.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1882, F. H. Howland, representing the Brush Electric Lighting Company, made an energetic canvass in Los Angeles for the introduction of the electric light; and by the end of the third week in August, forty or more arc lamps had been ordered by business houses and private individuals.  He soon proposed to light the city by seven towers or spliced masts-each about one hundred and fifty feet high-to be erected within an area bounded by the Plaza, Seventh, Charity and Main streets, and supplied from a power-house at the corner of Banning and Alameda streets.  The seven masts were to cost seven thousand dollars a year, or somewhat more than was then being paid for gas.  This proposition was accepted by the Council, popular opinion being that it was "the best advertisement that Los Angeles could have;" and when Howland, a week later, offered to add three or four masts, there was considerable satisfaction that Los Angeles was to be brought into the line of progress.  On the evening of December 31st, the city was first lighted by electricity when Mayor Toberman touched the button that turned on the mysterious current.  Howland was opposed by the gas company and by many who advanced the most ridiculous objections: electric light, it was claimed, attracted bugs, contributed to blindness and had a bad effect on--ladies' complexions!</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1883, Herman Flatau came to Los Angeles from Berlin and soon entered the employ of H. Newmark &amp; Company. His first duty was to bale hides; in a year, he was a porter in the grocery department; and by another year he had advanced to a place in the billing-office.  Since then, he has risen step by step until he is now a stockholder in M. A. Newmark &amp; Company and is taken into the most confidential and important councils of that firm.  On the nineteenth of February, 1888, Flatau married Miss Fanny Bernstein, a lady distinguished as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>557</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>536</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. Elizabeth A. Follansbee registered in Los Angeles in February, 1883, and as one of the earliest women physicians here soon secured an enviable position in the professional world, being called to the chair for diseases of children in the College of Medicine of the University of Southern California.</P>
023.sgm:<P>J. W. Robinson in 1833 established a small dry goods shop at the comer of Temple and Spring streets, which he named the Boston Dry Goods Store.<ANCHOR ID="n36-36">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36-36">May 1st, 1914, the J. w. Robinson Dry Goods co. contracted to move to Seventh Street between Grand Avenue and Hope Street.  This is one of the notable examples of leapfrog that real estate operators have played in Los Angeles, to the detriment perhaps, at times, of the town itself.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>One of the most shocking railroad accidents in the history of California blotted the calendar for January 20th, when over twenty persons were killed and sudden grief was brought to several happy Los Angeles circles.  About three o'clock on a cold wintry night, an express train, bound south, stopped at the Teh&aacute;chepi Station, near the summit; and while the engineer and fireman on the detached locomotive and tender were busy loading water and fuel, and the conductor was in the office making his report, the brakeman, with what proved to be uncalculating gallantry, was hastening to escort a young lady from the car to the railway station.  In his hurry, he had forgotten to apply the brakes; and before he could return, the entire train, started by a heavy gale, had begun to move away <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>558</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>537</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The conductor, upon leaving the depot, was the first to discover that the cars had started away; the disappearing lights having become so faint as to be scarcely visible.  The passengers, too, had noticed nothing unusual until too late; when the train, plunging along at fearful velocity, leaped the track and fell in a heap to the ravine below.  The old-fashioned lamps and stoves set fire to the <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Marshall &amp; Henderson established themselves, in 1883, in the wholesale iron and wagon-supply trade; whereupon we sold that branch of our business to them.  Shortly after, we vacated the storerooms in the Arcadia Block, which we had continuously occupied since the establishing of H. Newmark &amp; Company in 1865, and moved to the two-story Amestoy Building on Los Angeles Street, north of Requena, but a few paces from the corner on which I had first clerked for my brother.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At a meeting in the office of the Los Angeles Produce Exchange, in the Arcadia Block on Los Angeles Street on March 9th, presided over by C. W. Gibson when J. Mills Davies acted as Secretary, the Board of Trade of Los Angeles was organized, M. Dodsworth, C. W. Gibson, A. Haas, J. M. Davies, Eugene Germain, J. J. Mellus, John R. Mathews, Walter S. Maxwell, I. N. Van Nuys and myself being the incorporators.  Six directors--Gibson, Van Nuys, Haas, Dodsworth, Mathews and Newmark--were chosen.  On March 14th, 1883, the Board was formally incorporated for fifty years. After a while the Board met in the Baker Block, and still later it assembled in a two-story brick structure at the northwest corner of Fort and First streets.  In October, 1906, the Board <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>559</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>538</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The republication, in the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Some very fine nugas [ <HI REND="italics">nougats</HI>
023.sgm:<P>calls to mind an event of March 21st, when my wife and I celebrated our silver wedding at our home on Fort Street.  At half-past six in the evening, all of my employees sat down at dinner with us, having come in a body to tender their congratulations.  A reunion of three generations of the Newmarks, some of whom then saw one another for the first time, came to a close a week or two later.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As the anniversary approached, I prepared a surprise for my wife, arranging that her brother, Abraham Newmark of St. Louis, should be present in Los Angeles for the occasion. His visit, however, had a grievous termination: while in San Francisco on his way home from Los Angeles, death came to him suddenly in the home of a friend.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In May, the Los Angeles Board of Education sold the northwest corner of Spring and Second streets--a lot one hundred and twenty by one hundred and sixty-five feet, where the City, in 1854, had built the first schoolhouse--to the city authorities for thirty-one thousand dollars; and the next year the Council erected on the inside sixty feet the first municipal building of consequence.  When the Boom was at its height in 1887, the City sold the balance of the lot with its frontage on Spring Street and a depth of one hundred and five feet for one hundred and twenty thousand dollars, to John Bryson, Sr., an arrival of 1879 and ten years later Mayor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>560</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>539</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>This sale and purchase reminds me that when the lot was cleared to make way for the new City Hall, ten or twelve fine black locust trees were felled, much to the regret of many old-timers.  These were the same shade trees for the preservation of which Billy McKee, the early schoolmaster, had risked bodily encounter with the irate waterman.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When the Board of Education sold this lot, it bought another, which extended from Fort Street to Spring between Fifth and Sixth streets and had a frontage of one hundred and twenty feet on each street.  The price paid was twelve thousand five hundred dollars.  This is the lot now known as Mercantile Place, whose retention or sale has been so much debated and which, with its many small stores, reminds the traveler not a little of those narrow but cosy, and often very prosperous, European streets and alleys on both sides lined with famous shops.</P>
023.sgm:<P>August 22d was the date of the City ordinance creating Elysian Park, the act leading the early settler back to pueblo days when the land in question passed from Mexican to American control and remained a part of the City lots, already described, and never subdivided and sold.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The last companies of volunteer firemen were organized in 1883, one being in the Morris Vineyard, a district between what is now Main, Hill, Fifteenth and Sixteenth streets, and the other in East Los Angeles, where a hose company was formed.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During September or October, a party of distinguished German bankers and statesmen, who had come to the United States to investigate certain branches of business, visited Los Angeles.  The most important of this commission was Dr. Edward Lasker of the German Reichstag, other eminent members being Henry Villard, President of the Northern Pacific Railroad, and Judge Siemens, President of the German Bank of Berlin.  A committee, consisting of I. W. Hellman, C. C. Lips, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>561</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>540</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>General George H. Stoneman, when he retired from the army in 1871, settled near San Gabriel; and continuing more or less in public life, he was elected in 1883 Governor of California.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In December, 1883, Eugene Meyer sold out to Nathan Cahn and Leon Loeb, his partners in the City of Paris store, and engaged in banking with Lazard Fr&egrave;res, in San Francisco, in which enterprise he continued until 1892, when he moved to New York and became one of the managing partners of the same institution in that city, retiring from active business nearly a decade later.</P>
023.sgm:<P>When Meyer left, he sold his home on Fort Street, which had originally cost him six thousand, to Moses L. Wicks for sixteen thousand dollars; and his friends told him that so successful a sale proved the Meyer luck.  Wicks in time resold it to John D. Bicknell, whose heirs still own it.</P>
023.sgm:<P>With the coming at Christmas in 1883 of Robert N. Bulla, began a career that has made itself felt in local legal, political, commercial, social and scientific circles.  In 1884, he joined the law firm of Bicknell &amp; White; nine years later, he was representing his district in the State Assembly; in 1897, he was a State Senator; and his efficient activity as a director of the Chamber of Commerce, together with his forensic talent, lead one to anticipate his rise to further distinction in that body. As a director of the Southwest Museum, Bulla performs another of his services to the community.</P>
023.sgm:<P>After an unsuccessful canvass made by Judge Noah Levering, which resulted in the attendance of just four persons, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>562</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>541</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Historical Society of Southern California was finally organized at meetings in Temple Block, in November and December, 1883. J. J. Warner was the first President; H. D. Barrows, A. F. Coronel, J. G. Downey and John Mansfield, the Vice-Presidents; J. M. Guinn, Treasurer; and C. N. Wilson, Secretary.  For a time, the Society's meetings were held in the City Council room, after that in the County Court room; and later at the houses of the members.  On February 12th, 1891, the Society was incorporated.  <HI REND="italics">Le Progr&egrave;s</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On February 18th, another flood of unusual proportions, continuing until May, devastated the Southland.  Following several days of heavy rain, the river rose and fifty houses and large sections of vineyards and orchards in the low-lying portions of the city were carried away by the mad waters; several lives being lost.  In that year, the Santa Ana cut its new channel to the sea, deviating from the old course from one to three miles, but still holding to the southwest, a direction apparently characteristic of rivers in this vicinity.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of rains, reminds me that, iii 1884, one of the difficulties in the way of solving the water problem was removed in the purchase, by the City of Los Angeles, for fifty thousand dollars, of Colonel Griffith J. Griffith's right to the water of the Los Angeles River.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charles F. Lummis, long a distinguished and always a picturesquely-recognizable resident, walked across the continent "for fun and study, "from Cincinnati to Los Angeles, by a roundabout route of 3507 miles in one hundred and forty-three days, in 1884, having made an arrangement with the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: to which he contributed breezy letters on the way. The day after his arrival he became city editor of that newspaper, and in the last Apache campaign, in 1886, he was its war correspondent. In 1887 a stroke of paralysis sent him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>563</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>542</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:to New Mexico; and recovering, he spent several years exploring and studying Spanish-America from Colorado to Chile, becoming acknowledged here and abroad as an authority on the history and the peoples of the lands he visited.  In 1893, returning from Peru, he edited for a dozen years the <HI REND="italics">Land of Sunshine</HI>
023.sgm: magazine (later <HI REND="italics">Out West</HI>
023.sgm: ); after that founding the Landmarks Club to which we owe the preservation, from utter ruin, of several of the old Missions. This club has lately been reorganized to care for all of the twenty-one Missions of the State. Later Lummis incorporated the Sequoya League which has so much bettered the condition of thousands of California Indians-securing, in particular, for the evicted Warner's Ranch Indians a better reservation than that from which they were driven. From 1905 to 1911 he was Librarian of the Los Angeles Public Library.  In 1903 he founded the Southwest Society of the Archeological Institute of America which conducted many scientific expeditions in Arizona, New Mexico and Guatemala, acquired valuable collections and maintained the first free public exhibits of science in Southern California. In 1907 he and others incorporated the Southwest Museum, whereupon the Society conveyed to it all its collections, a twenty-acre site and the fifty thousand dollars bequeathed by Mrs. Carrie M. Jones for the first buildings.  Besides other and many literary activities, Lummis has published over a dozen notable books on the Southwest and Spanish America.<ANCHOR ID="n36-37">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: Clad in corduroys from Barcelona--coat and trousers, with very wide wales, of olive or green--wearing no vest, but having a shirt of heavy drawn-work of the Pueblo Indians (with whom he dwelt six years), a red-and-white <HI REND="italics">faja</HI>
023.sgm: or waist-band made by the same people, and a grey <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
023.sgm: banded with Mexican braided horse-hair, Lummis roams the desert or is welcome at the most exclusive functions; having already been a guest many times at the White House and the palaces of Diaz and other presidents in Spanish America.  "I don't change my face for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>564</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>543</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:company," he says, "then why my garb-so long as both are clean?" An interesting figure at scientific meetings and on the lecture platform, Lummis is equally so at home where, after twenty years work with his own hands, he is still building his stone "castle," <HI REND="italics">El Alisal</HI>
023.sgm:; and as his house is a rendezvous for artists, musicians, authors and scientists, his guests often find him toiling as either carpenter or mason. The <HI REND="italics">Alisal</HI>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36-37">In 1915, in recognition of historical work, the King of Spain conferred upon Lummis the dignity of a Knight Commander of the Royal Order of Isabel la Cat&oacute;lica.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>In 1884, Colonel H. Z. Osborne--always a foremost citizen of the town and in 1912 a most energetic President of the Chamber of Commerce--and E. R. Cleveland bought the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm:; and two years later they organized the Evening Express Company, J. Mills Davies, once Secretary of the Board of Trade, becoming business manager.  In 1897, Colonel Osborne was appointed United States Marshal for the Southern California District, whereupon Charles Dwight Willard became general manager of the paper, to be succeeded by J. B. Abell. For a short time in 1900, the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm:<P>O. W. Childs opened his new theater known as Childs' Opera House, on Main Street south of First, in what was then the center of the city, on May 24th, when the <HI REND="italics">School for Scandal</HI>
023.sgm:<P>An interesting personality for many years was C. P. Switzer, a Virginian, who came in 1853 with Colonel Hollister, W. H. Perry and others.  Switzer became a contractor and builder; but in 1884, in search of health, he moved to an eminence in the Sierras, where he soon established Switzer's Camp, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>565</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>544</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the middle of the eighties, excitement among citrus growers throughout Southern California gave way to deep depression due to the continued ravages of the fluted scale, a persistent insect whose home, according to research, is Australia, and which had found its way, on Australian plants (and especially on <HI REND="italics">Acacia latifolia</HI>
023.sgm: ) into South Africa, New Zealand and California, arriving on the Pacific Coast about 1868. This particular species, known to the scientist as the <HI REND="italics">Icerya purchasi</HI>
023.sgm:, resisted and survived all insecticide sprayings, washes and fumigation, and for a while it seemed that one of the most important and growing industries of the Southland was absolutely doomed.  Indeed, not until 1889, when the result of Albert Koebele's mission to Australia, as a representative of the Department of Agriculture, was made known, did hope among the citrus orchardists revive.  In that year, the tiny ladybird-styled by the learned the <HI REND="italics">Novius cardinalis</HI>
023.sgm:<P>With the arrival on March 1st, 1887, of J. O. Koepfli, a man came on the scene who during the next twenty-five years was to be not only one of the real forces in the development of the city, but, as a whole-souled gentleman, was to surround himself, through his attractive personality, with a large circle of representative and influential friends.  As President of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>566</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>545</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Among the present social organizations of the city, the Los Angeles Athletic Club takes second place in point of age.  It was organized in 1879 by forty young men, among whom were Fred Wood, Bradner W. Lee, Mark G. Jones, Frank M. Coulter, Frank A. Gibson, John S. Thayer, M. K. Newmark, W. G. Kerckhoff, Alfredo Solano, J. B. Lankershim, W. M. Caswell, James C. Kays, Joseph Binford, and Samuel Dewey. The initial meeting took place in Wood's office in the McDonald Block, and a hall in the Arcadia Building was the Club's earliest headquarters.  J. B. Lankershim was the first President.  A few years later, the Club moved to the Downey Block; and there the boys had many a merry bout.  In the course of time, the gymnasium was located on Spring Street, between Fourth and Fifth; now it occupies its own spacious and elaborate building on Seventh Street, at the corner of Olive, the Club's quarters being among the finest of their kind iii America.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>567</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>546</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVII<LB>REPETTO AND THE LAWYERS<LB>1885-1887</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>TEN or twelve months after the starting of the first cable railway here, Los Angeles, in 1885, resumed the march of progress, this time with an electric street car line. Poles--with huge arms stretching out into the middle of the street and often spoken of derisively as gallows-poles--and wires were strung along Los Angeles and San Pedro streets, down Maple Avenue to Pico Street and thence westward to what was known as the Electric Homestead Tract, just outside of the city limits.  A company owned much land not likely to be sold in a hurry, and to exploit the same rapidly, the owners built the road.  F. H. Howland, who introduced the electric light here, was a prime mover in this project, but ill fortune attended his efforts and he died a poor man.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On January 11th, my wife and left for a trip to the City of Mexico, where we spent four or five days and were pleasantly entertained, before going to the New Orleans Exposition, by our old friend, Judge Ygn&aacute;cio Sep&uacute;lveda and his wife.  Previous to crossing the border, we stored our trunks in El Paso and received them upon our return, strapped as before.  Some valuables, however, which I had hidden away in the linen were missing when I reopened the trunk, and have never been recovered. Among other companions on this outing were Fred, son of J. M. Griffith, and James S., son of Jonathan S. Slauson. By the bye, James himself has had an honorable public career, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>568</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>547</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Early in March, I believe, sewing was first introduced into the public schools of Los Angeles, the Board of Education consenting to it only as an experiment.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Two celebrities divided the honors in the spring and summer in local circles: United States Senator John Sherman, who visited Los Angeles on May 8th, 1885, and Sir Arthur Sullivan, the distinguished English composer, of <HI REND="italics">Pinafore</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Mikado</HI>
023.sgm:<P>About 1885, a Dr. Sketchley, who enjoyed some reputation for his work in the natural history field and had been a traveler through many remote countries, brought to Los Angeles quite a collection of ostriches and opened, about where Tropico lies, an amusement resort known as "The Ostrich Farm."  Having provided a coach to connect with the end of the Temple Street cable cars and advertised the strange peculiarities of his finely-feathered animals, the Doctor soon did a thriving business, notwithstanding the task of caring for the birds in their new environment. Later, Sketchley removed from Los Angeles to Red Bluff; but there he failed and lost all that he had.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Soon after Dr. Sketchley arrived here with his ostriches and three or four men and one woman from Madras, Edwin Cawston, an Englishman now retired and living in Surrey, happening (while on a tour through America) to glance at an article in <HI REND="italics">Harper's Magazine</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>569</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>548</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Quite naturally with the advent of the settler from the East and the Middle West, the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm:, in early years so serviceable both for domestic and irrigation purposes and, therefore, more or less venerable, came to be looked upon as mere surface-conveyers and public nuisances; a sign, in 1883, at the corner of Sixth and Olive streets warning teamsters against crossing the ditch.  By 1885, such opposition had developed that most of the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm: were condemned, the one extending from Requena Street to Adams <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm:<P>For some time, East Los Angeles maintained its character as a village or small town, and in 1885 the <HI REND="italics">East Side Champion</HI>
023.sgm:<P>This year was marked by the demise of a number of well-known Angele&ntilde;os.  On the second of March, John Schumacher, a man esteemed and beloved by many, died here of apoplexy, in the seventieth year of his age.  Six days later, General Phineas Banning, who had been sick for several months, expired at San Francisco, his wife and daughters being with him; and on March 12th, he was buried in Rosedale Cemetery.  In his declining years, illness often compelled General Banning to remain at home in Wilmington; and when needing the services of his physician, Dr. Joseph Kurtz, he would send a locomotive to fetch him.  On June 5th, Dr. Vincent Gelcich, the pioneer surgeon, died here at the age of fifty-six years.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1885, the first medical school in Los Angeles was founded in the house once occupied by Vach&eacute; Fr&egrave;res, the wine-makers, on Aliso Street between Lyons and Center.  For years the school was conducted as a part of the University of Southern California, and Dr. J. P. Widney was Dean.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1885 Dr. M. Dorothea Lummis, a graduate in medicine of the Boston University, settled in Los Angeles and in time became President of the Los Angeles County Homeopathic Medical Society.  Distinguished in her profession, Dr. Lummis became a leader in humane endeavor, reorganizing here the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>570</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>549</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The first train of the Santa F&eacute; Railroad to enter the city of Los Angeles ran from Colton over the rails of the Southern Pacific, on November 29th, the two corporations having come to an agreement to use the one set of tracks until the spring of 1887, when the Santa F&eacute; finished building from San Bernardino to its junction with the Los Angeles &amp; San Gabriel Valley Railroad.  The locomotive bore the name, <HI REND="italics">L. Severy</HI>
023.sgm: --a prominent director in the Company, and the father of the well-known resident of Pasadena--and the number <HI REND="italics">354</HI>
023.sgm:<P>After twenty years' association with the wholesale grocery business, I withdrew, on December 5th, 1885, from H. Newmark &amp; Company, and on that day the business was absorbed by M. A. Newmark, M. H. Newmark, Max Cohn and Carl Seligman, and continued as M. A. Newmark &amp; Company. This gave me the opportunity of renewing my association with one of my earliest partners, Kaspare Cohn, the new firm becoming K. Cohn &amp; Company; and the change in my activities found me once again shipping hides and wool.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Looking through the haze of years, many are the recollections--often vague, it is true--of those with whom I had business relations.  In the picturesque adobe days, the majority of my customers were simple-mannered natives such as Manuel Carizosa, on South Alameda Street; Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a D&aacute;vila, in Sonora Town next door to Mar&iacute;a Fuentes, his competitor; and M. G. Santa Cruz, in the same district. Jordan Brothers, Americans, kept store on Aliso Street opposite the Aliso Mill, and G. Ginnochio, father-in-law of James Castruccio, on Macy Street, near the river; while Bernardino Guirado, Mrs. John G. Downey's brother, and Max Schwed supplied the wants of Los Nietos.  J. B. Savarots, who went to South America when he sold out to J. Salaberri &amp; Company--a firm composed of two Basques, Juan Salaberri and Domingo Oyharzabel--was in general merchandise in San Juan Capistrano. Hippolyte Cahen (whose widow is a member of the Lazarus Stationery Company,) had an up-to-date general store at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>571</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>550</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In view of the ravages of time among the ranks of these old-timers, it is a satisfaction to observe that at least some of those who were active before I retired are still in the trade. The first-comer was George A. Ralphs, who, reaching Los Angeles as a boy, learned brick-masonry and was known as the Champion Bricklayer of California until, while on a hunting expedition, he lost an arm.<ANCHOR ID="n37-38">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: With a man named Francis, he started, in 1877, the Ralphs &amp; Francis Grocery, on the old Georgetown corner.  This was the beginning of the Ralphs Grocery Company.  In February, 1882, Hans Jevne, a Norwegian by birth, who had been associated with his brother in Chicago, came to Los Angeles, and a few months later he opened a small grocery store in the Strelitz Block at 38 and 40 North Spring Street.  In less than no time, so to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>572</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>551</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n37-38">On June 21st, 1914, Mr. Ralphs lost his life in a deplorable accident in the San Bernardino Mountains, being crushed by a huge bowlder; although his wife escaped by springing from the rolling rock.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>So much for the merchants of the city; among such tradesmen in the districts outside of Los Angeles, I can recall but three active in my day and still active in this.  Alphonse Weil, a native of the sunny slopes of France, has grown up with the town of Bakersfield.  John R. Newberry opened his doors in 1882, and, after moving to Los Angeles in 1893, commenced that meteoric career, during which he established stores throughout Los Angeles and its suburbs.  George A. Edgar, about thirty-one years ago, brought a stock of groceries and crockery to Santa Ana and deposited the contents of his cases in the same location, and on the same shelves, from which he still caters to his neighbors.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The great flood of 1886 reached its first serious state on January 19th.  All of Los Angeles between Wilmington Street and the hills on the east side was inundated; levees were carried off as if they were so much loose sand and stubble; and for two or three weeks railway communication with the outside world was impossible.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During this inundation on January 19th, Martin G. Aguirre, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>573</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>552</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Rebecca Lee Dorsey, another of the early women practitioners of medicine, came to Los Angeles in January,  1886, a graduate both of Eastern colleges and of a leading Vienna hospital.  Peddling vegetables as a child, later working as a servant and hiring out as a nurse while finishing her course in Europe, Dr. Dorsey was of a type frequently found among the early builders of the Southwest.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Largely to a board of Commissioners, consisting of Mayor E. F. Spence, H. Sinsabaugh and the ever-ready Jake Kuhrts, appointed in 1886 when provision was made for a paid fire department, is due the honor of having successfully arranged the present excellent system in Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It was in 1886 that we bought the Repetto <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>574</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>553</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>There, finding him alone and neglected, I advised him to go to the Sisters' Hospital on Ann Street; but the change did not save him and after a few days he died.  A fellow Italian named Scotti, a knave of a chap who was with him in his last moments, knowing that I was Repetto's executor, soon brought to my house a lot of papers which he had taken from the dead man's pockets.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Repetto being a recluse somewhat on the misanthropic order, I had difficulty in getting pallbearers for his funeral, one of my applications being to James Castruccio, President of the Italian Benevolent Society and then Italian Consul, who said that Repetto had never helped anyone, but that if I would give, in his name, five hundred dollars to charity, the attendants would be supplied.  To this I demurred, because Repetto had made no such provision in his will; and Castruccio giving me no satisfaction, I went to Father Peter, explained to him that Repetto had bequeathed six thousand dollars to the Church, and stated my needs; whereupon Father Peter arranged for the bearers.  All the provisions for the funeral having been settled, I cabled to his brother and heir, then living in the mountains near Genoa, whose address I had obtained from Castruccio.  Repetto had really hated this brother and, in consequence, he had very unwillingly bequeathed him his large estate.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In due season, the brother, a hunchback, appeared on deck as an intimate with Scotti, and I found him to be an uncouth, ignorant fellow and a man who had probably never handled a ten-dollar gold piece or its equivalent in his life. He had on shoes that an elephant might have worn, a common, corduroy suit, a battered hat and plenty of dirt.  Wishing to take him to Stephen M. White, my lawyer, I advised the purchase of new clothes; but in this, as in other matters, I appealed in vain.  So miserly was he indeed, that one day, having purchased a five-cent loaf of bread in Sonora Town, he was seen to hide himself behind a building while he ate it, doubtless fearful lest someone might ask him for a bite.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Alessandro Repetto had lived with an Indian woman by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>575</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>554</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Early in the morning, a few days later--either on Christmas or New Year's--there was a knock at my door; and when the girl answered the call, the Sheriff was found there with the interesting news that Repetto had been arrested and that he wished me to bail him out!  I learned that Robarts and Howard had presented him with a bill for three thousand five hundred dollars, for services; and that, since the money was not immediately forthcoming, they had trumped up some sort of a charge and had had the foreigner incarcerated.  White advised a settlement, and after much difficulty we succeeded in having their bill reduced to three thousand dollars, which we paid.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Repetto's troubles now seemed at an end; but just as he was ready to leave for Italy, Scotti put in an appearance with a claim for benefits bestowed, which the much-fleeced Italian refused to pay.  Scotti, knowing along which road the unfortunate man would travel, was early at San Gabriel with the Sheriff, to intercept Repetto and return him to limbo; and the Genoese being brought back, he again appealed to me.  It was now my turn, as executor, to have an interesting inning with Scotti.  While I was settling the estate, I was made aware that Repetto had loaned another Italian named G. Bernero, on his note, some three thousand dollars; but this document <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>576</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>555</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In connection with this move by Scotti, Robarts and Howard reappeared to defend Repetto, notwithstanding his previous announcement that he would have nothing more to do with them; and to bolster up their claim, they drew forth a paper certifying that Repetto had engaged them to attend to any law business he might have while he was in this country!  Repetto, now really alarmed, once more quickly settled; but the crafty Robarts and Howard had another bill up their sleeves, this time for three or four thousand dollars, and poor Repetto was obliged to pay that, too!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kaspare Cohn, J. D. Bicknell, I. W. Hellman and S. M. White, in conjunction with myself, bought the Repetto Ranch from the brother, before he left for Italy, for sixty thousand dollars.  All in all, the heir, who survived the date of his windfall but a few years, carried away with him the snug sum of one hundred thousand dollars.</P>
023.sgm:<P>This fine domain, lying between Whittier and Los Angeles, was apportioned long before 1899, among the five purchasers. In that year, Kaspare Cohn and I, on the advice of William Mulholland, developed water on our undivided share, meeting with as great a success as has attended all of the operations of that eminent engineer.  After an abundance of water was secured, we sold the property in five-acre and smaller lots, locating the town site of Newmark near the tracks of the San Pedro, Los Angeles &amp; Salt Lake Railroad, and naming the entire settlement Montebello.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It was in the spring of 1886 that Colonel H. H. Boyce, who had been business manager of the Times-Mirror Company, was bought out by Colonel H. G. Otis and became editor-in-chief <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>577</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>556</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:and general manager of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
023.sgm:<P>One more reference to the <HI REND="italics">Times-Mirror</HI>
023.sgm: publishing house On April 8th, the company was reorganized, with Colonel H G. Otis as President and General Manager, Albert McFarland as Vice-President and Treasurer and William A. Spalding a Secretary.  About the middle of July, the company bough the corner of Fort and First streets, and in the following Ma: moved to its new home erected there.  On February 1st, 1887 the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm:<P>After grinding away for ten years as the sole owner of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel John Franklin, or plain J. F. Godfrey as he wa known in those days, was rather a prominent attorney in hi time; and I knew him very well.  About 1886, as chairman of Democratic committee, he headed the delegation that invite me to become a candidate for Mayor of Los Angeles; but contemplated European trip compelled me to decline the honor</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1886, a falling out between the Southern Pacific and the Santa F&eacute; railroads brought on a rate-war disastrous enough to those companies but productive of great benefit to Los Angeles.  Round-trip tickets from points as fa east as the Missouri River were hammered down to fifteen dollars, and for a few days, Charley White (who then conducted the Southern Pacific office in the Baker Block, and had full authority to make new fares) defied the rival road by establishing a tourist rate of just one dollar!  When normality again prevailed, the fare was advanced to fifty dollars for first-class passage and forty dollars for second-class. The low rate during the fight encouraged thousands of Easterners to visit the Coast and in the end many sacrificed their return coupons and settled here; while others returned to their Eastern homes only to prepare for permanent removal West.  In a sense, therefore this railroad war contributed to the Boom of a year or two later.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>578</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>557</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Freight as well as passenger rates were slashed during this spasmodic contest, and it was then that the ridiculous charge of one dollar per ton permitted me to bring in by rail, from Chicago, several carloads of coal, which I distributed among my children.  Such an opportunity will probably never again present itself to Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Another interesting shipment was that of a carload of willow-ware from New York, the freight-bill for which amounted to eight dollars and thirty-five cents.  These goods ordinarily bear a very high tariff; but competition had hammered everything down to a single classification and rate.  I remember, also, that M. A. Newmark &amp; Company brought from New York a train-load of Liverpool salt, then a staple commodity here, paying a rate of sixty cents per ton.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stimulated, perhaps, through the setting aside of Elysian Park by the City Council, another pleasure-ground, then known as East Los Angeles Park, was assured to the public toward the middle of the eighties; the municipal authorities at the same time spending about five thousand dollars to improve the Plaza, one of the striking features of which was a circular row of evergreens uniformly trimmed to a conical shape.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On October 14th, H. T. Payne and Edward Records published the initial number of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
023.sgm:, this being the first newspaper here to appear seven days in the week. The following January, a company was incorporated and for years the <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Charles Frederick Holder, the distinguished naturalist, came to California in search of health,<ANCHOR ID="n37-39">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: in 1886, and settled in Pasadena, where he was appointed Professor of zo&ouml;logy in the Throop Institute.  An enthusiastic admirer of the Southland and an early explorer of its islands and mountain ranges, Professor Holder has devoted much attention to Pasadena and the neighboring coast.  As early as 1891, he published <HI REND="italics">Antiquities of Catalina</HI>
023.sgm:; later he wrote his spirited Southern California book on <HI REND="italics">Life and Sport in the Open</HI>
023.sgm:; and with his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>579</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>558</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n37-39">Died on October 10th, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Prudent and Victor Beaudry bought considerable land 01 the west side of New High Street, probably in 1887, including the site of one of the old <HI REND="italics">calabozos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>NOW IS THE TIME!</P>
023.sgm:<P>DON'T SHUT YOUR EYES AND TURN YOUR BACK!</P>
023.sgm:<P>and the following:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Have a Home on the Hills!  Stop paying rent in the Valleys View from your own home the broad Pacific, the green hills an' the model city!  Best water supply.  Drainage perfect.  Best sunny exposures.  Pure air, and away from fogs!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Have a Home on the line of the great Cable Railway system</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mark your Catalogue before the day of sale!</P>
023.sgm:<P>February 15, 16 and 17, at 10 o'clock each Day.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Bear in mind that this property is on the HILLS, and or the line of the Cable Railway System!  No such opportunity has ever been offered to the people of Southern California. Public School and Young Ladies' Seminary in the immediate vicinity.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Four years after he had built the Nadeau Block, Remi <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>580</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>559</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In January, Fred W. Beau de Zart and John G. Hunsicker established <HI REND="italics">The Weekly Directory</HI>
023.sgm:, whose title was soon changed to that of <HI REND="italics">The Commercial Bulletin</HI>
023.sgm:.  Under the able editorship of Preston McKinney, the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Phineas, son of J. P. Newmark, my brother, came to Los Angeles in 1887 and associated himself with M. A. Newmark &amp; Company.  In July, 1894, he bought out the Southern California Coffee and Spice Mills, and in the following September, his younger brother, Samuel M. Newmark, also came to Los Angeles and joined him under the title of Newmark Brothers. On December 26th, 1910, the city suffered a sad loss in the untimely death of the elder brother.  Sam's virility has been amply shown in his career as a business man and in his activity as a member of the Municipal League directorate.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Among the hotels of the late eighties were the Belmont and the Bellevue Terrace, both frame buildings.  The former, at the terminus of the Second Street Cable Railway, was known for its elevation, view, fresh air and agreeable environment of lawn and flower-bed, and the first floor was surrounded with broad verandas.  For a while it was conducted by Clark &amp; Patrick, who claimed for it "no noise, dirt or mosquitoes." The latter hotel, on Pearl Street near Sixth, was four stories in height and had piazzas extending around three of them; both of these inns were quite characteristic of Southern California architecture.  The Bellevue Terrace, so full of life during the buoyant Boom days, still stands, but alas! the familiar old pile has surrendered to more modern competitors.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Tivoli Opera House, on Main Street between Second and Third, was opened by McLain &amp; Lehman in 1887, and for a time it was one of the attractions of the city.  It presented a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>581</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>560</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In February, the Postmaster packed the furniture and other outfit--only two or three good loads-and moved the Post Office to the Hellman Building, at the corner of North Main and Republic streets; but it was soon transferred to an office on Fort Street, south of Sixth, a location so far from the center of the city as to give point to cards distributed by some wag and advertising rates for sleeping accommodations to the new office.  In that year, the sum-total of the receipts of the Los Angeles Post Office was not much over seventy-four thousand dollars.  During the twelve months of the Boom, mail for over two hundred thousand transients was handled; and a familia sight of the times was the long column of inquirers, reminding one of the famous lines in early San Francisco when prospector for gold paid neat sums for someone else's place nearer the general delivery window.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have told of some incidents in the routine of court proceedings here, in which both judge and counselor played their parts.  Now and then the juror also contributed to the diversion, as was evidenced in the late eighties when a couple o: jurymen in a San Gabriel Ca&ntilde;on water case created both excitement and merriment through a practical joke.  Tiring of a midnight session, and bethinKing himself of the new invention to facilitate speaking at a distance, one of the juror.' telephoned police headquarters that rioters were slashing each other at a near-by corner; whereupon the guardians of the peace came tearing that way, to the merriment of the "twelve good men and true" peeking out from an upper window.  The police having traced the telephone message, the jury was duly haled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>582</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>561</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>William H. Workman, who had repeatedly served the City as Councilman, was elected Mayor of Los Angeles in 1887. During Workman's administration, Main, Spring and Fort streets were paved.</P>
023.sgm:<P>About 1887, Benjamin S. Eaton, as President, took the lead in organizing a society designed to bring into closer relationship those who had come to California before her admission to the Union.  There were few members; and inasmuch as the conditions imposed for eligibility precluded the possibility of securing many more, this first union of pioneers soon ceased to exist.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Professor T. S. C. Lowe, with a splendid reputation for scientific research, especially in the field of a&euml;ronautics--having acquired his first experience with balloons, as did also Graf Ferdinand Zeppelin, by participating in the Union army maneuvers during our Civil War--took up, in the late eighties, the business of manufacturing gas from water, which he said could be accomplished beyond any doubt for eight cents a thousand feet.  C. F. Smurr, the capable Los Angeles agent of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company, as well as Hugh Livingston Macniel, son-in-law of Jonathan S. Slauson and then Cashier of the Main Street Savings Bank, became interested with Lowe and induced Kaspare Cohn and me to participate in the experiment.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Accordingly, we purchased six acres of land on the southeast corner of Alameda and Seventh streets for fifteen thousand dollars, and there started the enterprise.  We laid pipes through many of the streets and, in the course of a few months, began to manufacture gas which it was our intention to sell to consumers at one dollar per thousand feet.  The price at which gas was then being sold by the Los Angeles Gas Company was one dollar and fifty cents per thousand, and we therefore considered our schedule reasonable.  Everything at the outset looked so plausible that Smurr stated to his associates that he would resign his position with the railroad and assume the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>583</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>562</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Late in the spring, Senator Stanford and a party of Souther Pacific officials visited Los Angeles with the view of locating a site for the new and "magnificent railroad station" long promised the city, and at the same time to win some of the popular favor then being accorded the Santa Fe.  For man years, objection had been made to the tracks on Alameda Street originally laid down by Banning; and hoping to secure the removal, Mayor Workman offered a right of way along the river-front.  This suggestion was not accepted.  At length the owners of the Wolfskill tract donated to the railroad company a strip of land, three hundred by nineteen hundred fed in size, fronting on Alameda between Fourth and Sixth street with the provision that the company should use the same on] for railroad station purposes; and Stanford agreed to put up "splendid arcade," somewhat similar in design to, but more extensive and elaborate than, the Arcade Depot at Sacramento Soon after this, the rest of that celebrated orchard tract for over fifty years in the possession of the Wolfskill family was subdivided, offered at private sale and quickly disposed 0</P>
023.sgm:<P>The old-fashioned, one-horse street car had been running on and off the tracks many a year before the City Railroad organized, in the middle eighties, by I. W. Hellman and his associates, W. J. Brodrick, John O. Wheeler and others, made its more pretentious appearance on the streets of Los Angeles. This, the first line to use double tracks and more modern cars with drivers and conductors, followed a route then considered very long.  Starting as it did at Washington Street and leading north on Figueroa, it turned at Twelfth Street into Olive and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>584</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>563</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The year 1885 saw the addition of another Spanish name to the local map in the founding of Alhambra, now one of the attractive and prosperous suburbs of Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in the spring of 1885, or perhaps a little earlier, the Second Street Cable Railway was commenced when Isaac W. Lord turned a spadeful of earth at the corner of Second and Spring streets; and within a few months cars were running from Bryson Block west on Second Street over Bunker Hill along Lakeshore Avenue and then by way of First Street to Belmont Avenue, soon bringing about many improvements on the route. And if I am not mistaken, considerable patronage came from the young ladies attending a boarding school known as Belmont Hall.  Henry Clay Witmer was a moving spirit in this enterprise.  In course of time the cable railway connected with the steam dummy line, landing passengers in a watermelon patch--the future Hollywood.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Unlike Sierra Madre, so long retarded for want of railway facilities, Monrovia--founded in May, 1886, by William N. Monroe, at an altitude of twelve hundred feet, and favored by both the Santa F&eacute; and the Southern Pacific systems--rapidly developed, although it did not attain its present importance as a foothill town until it had passed through the usual depression of the late eighties, due to the collapse of the Boom, of which I am about to speak.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>585</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>564</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVIII<LB>THE GREAT BOOM<LB>1887</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>NOT as impulsively perhaps as on previous occasions, I left Los Angeles for Europe on April 30th, 1887, accompanied by my wife and our two children, Marco and Rose.  Mrs. Eugene Meyer, my wife's youngest sister, and her daughter joined us at San Francisco and traveled with us as far as Paris.  We took passage on the French ship <HI REND="italics">Normandie</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On this trip we visited France, England, Scotland, Ireland, Belgium, Holland, Denmark, Germany, Austria--including Bohemia--and Italy.  We also touched at points in Sweden, although we did not "do" that country thoroughly until a later voyage.  While in Germany, where I met my nephew Leo-son of J. P. Newmark--then a student in Strassburg, I was impressed with the splendid hotels and State highways, and the advantage taken of natural resources; and from Ems on July 22d, I wrote a letter on the subject to Kaspare Cohn, which I later found had been published by one of the Los Angeles dailies.  During this journey we traveled with M. J. Newmark and his family.  It was also on this tour, on June 10th, that I returned to my native town of Loebau, both to visit the graves of my parents and once more to see some relatives and a few old friends.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In Paris we had an exciting experience as observers of a conflagration <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>586</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>565</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In connection with our departure for this tour of Europe, I am reminded of a unique gift to my wife of a diary in eight volumes, tastefully bound in Russian leather--the whole neatly encased for traveling.  With almost painful regularity my wife entered there her impressions and recollections of all she saw, refusing to retire at night, as a rule, until she had posted up her book for the day.  Glancing over these pages written in her distinct, characteristically feminine hand, I note once more the intellectual vigor and perspicuity displayed by my companion in this, her first contact with European life and customs.</P>
023.sgm:<P>It was during my absence, on May 2d, that Erskine Mayo Ross was appointed, by President Cleveland, Judge of the new United States District Court just established.  He was then in partnership with Stephen M. White.  A native of Belpr&eacute;, Virginia, he had come to Los Angeles in 1868 to study law with his uncle, Cameron E. Thom.  Soon admitted to the Bar, he was elected in 1879, at the age of thirty-four, to the Supreme Bench of the State.  The Judge, with whom I have been on friendly terms since his arrival, is still living in Los Angeles, a familiar and welcome figure in club circles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of this esteemed Judge, I am reminded of a visit here, in 1887, of Justice Stephen J. Field, when he sat with Judge Ross in the United States Circuit Court, the sessions of which were then held over the Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank at the corner of Main and Commercial streets.  On that occasion the members of the Bar, irrespective of party, united <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>587</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>566</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>D. W. Hanna, a Michigan pedagogue who had come to Los Angeles in 1884 to open Ellis College on Fort Street near Temple--burned in 1888--established on September 2d, 1885, the Los Angeles College, a boarding school for girls, in a couple of buildings at the corner of Fifth and Olive streets.  In 1887 Hanna, having formed a stock company, erected a new school structure at the southwest corner of Eighth and Hope streets, where eighteen teachers soon instructed some two hundred and fifty students.  But the institution failed, and the building, still standing, was finally bought by Abbot Kinney and named the Abbotsford Inn.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In a note regarding the life and accomplishments of Mme. Severance, I have referred to the distinguished <HI REND="italics">r&ocirc;le</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A group of Presbyterian clergymen from Los Angeles and vicinity in 1887 joined in establishing Occidental College--now, as developed under John Willis Baer, one of the promising institutions of the Southwest--locating its site east of the city between First and Second streets, both lots and acreage having been donated with the usual Southern California liberality. There, the following year, the main college building was erected; but in 1896 that structure and most of its contents were destroyed by fire.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Early in June, as ex-Mayor E. F. Spence was about to leave for Europe, some enthusiasm was created in educational circles by the announcement that he would deed certain property, including the lot at the corner of Pearl and Sixth streets (on which the Gates Hotel now stands), to the University of Southern California for the establishing of a telescope on Mount Wilson.  The matter had been communicated to President M. M. Bovard, who ordered a glass from the celebrated Cambridge <illus entity="a023-0135" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Spring Street, Looking North from First, about 1885</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0136" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Early Electric Car, with Conductor James Gallagher (still in Service)</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0137" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Cable Car, Running North on Broadway (Previously Fort Street), near Second</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>588</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>567</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Early in June, also, Smith &amp; McPhee issued a directory of Los Angeles.  But two weeks afterward, George W. Maxwell published another book of addresses with more than <HI REND="italics">five thousand</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1887, Mrs. Charlotte LeMoyne Wills, wife of the attorney, John A. Wills, and daughter of Dr. Francis Julius LeMoyne (who in 1876 erected at Washington, Pennsylvania, the first modern crematory in the world, notwithstanding that he was denied permission by the cemetery authorities there and was compelled to construct the furnace on his property outside of the town), inspired the establishing here of what is said to have been the second crematory in the United States and certainly the first built west of the Rocky Mountains.  It was opened at Rosedale Cemetery by the Los Angeles Crematory Society, which brought to the Coast an incinerating expert.  Dr. W. LeMoyne Wills, a son, was one of the leading spirits in the enterprise and among the first directors of the local organization. The first cremation occurred in June; and the first body so disposed of was that of the wife of Dr. O. B. Bird, a homeopathic physician.  The experiment stirred up a storm of adverse, as well as of favorable criticism.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The brothers Beaudry were interested, doubtless through their undeveloped hill-property, in organizing the Temple Street Cable Railway, running from the foot of Temple Street at Spring out Temple as far west as Union Avenue, with cars operated every ten minutes.  The Company had an office at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>589</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>568</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>About July, the trustees of James Lick sold Santa Catalina Island to George R. Shatto (who founded Avalon<ANCHOR ID="n38-40">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: --at first giving it his name-and after whom Shatto Street is called), the price fixed upon being one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, Shatto making a partial payment; whereupon the latter agreed to resell the island to an English syndicate. Failure to find there the store of minerals they expected, however, led the English bankers to refuse the property; and in 1892, after a friendly suit had re&euml;stablished the title of the Lick trustees, they disposed of that part of the estate (for about the same price offered Shatto), to William, J. B. and Hancock Banning--sons of my old friend, Phineas Banning--the three forming the Santa Catalina Island Company.  Several years later, George S. Patton was admitted as a partner.  Little by little Catalina became a favorite resort, although it was years before there was patronage enough to warrant a daily steamer service.  In the summer of 1887, for example, at the height of the Boom, William Banning, manager of the Wilmington Transportation Company, ran the steamer <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n38-40">Largely destroyed by fire, November 29th, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>The year 1887 witnessed the completion of the Arcadia Hotel at Santa Monica, named after Do&ntilde;a Arcadia, wife of Colonel R. S. Baker.  It was built on a bluff, was four stories high and had a great veranda with side wings; and with its center towel and cupola was more imposing than any hotel there to-day. Under the proprietorship of J. W. Scott, the Arcadia became one of the first fine suburban hotels in Southern California.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As late as 1887 there was no passenger service between the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>590</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>569</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of Santa Monica in the late eighties, I am reminded of a gravity railroad, somewhat on the principle of the present-day roller-coaster, which was opened near the Arcadia Hotel and as a novelty was a great success.  The track was not more than fifteen feet above the ground at its highest point of elevation-just sufficient to give the momentum necessary for an undulating movement.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As the final sequence to the events of three or four preceding years, Los Angeles, at the time when I left for Europe, had already advanced beyond the threshold of her first really violent "boom;" and now symptoms of feverish excitement were everywhere noticeable in Southern California.  The basis of real estate operations, heretofore sane enough, was quickly becoming unbalanced, a movement that was growing more and more intensified, as well as general; and as in the case of a mighty stream which accumulates overwhelming power from many feeders, there was a marshalling, as it were, in Los Angeles of these forces.  The charms of climate and scenery (widely advertised, as I have said, at the Philadelphia Centennial and, later, through the continuous efforts of the first and second Chambers of Commerce and the Board of Trade), together with the extension of the Southern Pacific to the East and the building of the Santa F&eacute; Railroad, had brought here a class of tourists who not only enjoyed the winter, but ventured to stay through the summer season; and who, having remained, were not long in seeking land and homesteads.  The rapidly increasing demand for lots and houses caused hundreds of men and women to enter the local real-estate field, most of whom were inexperienced and without much responsibility.  When, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>591</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>570</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>As I have already remarked, the coming of the Santa F&eacute;--as well as the ensuing railroad war--was a very potent factor in this temporary growth and advance in values; and soon after the railroad's advent, a dozen towns had been laid out on the line between Los Angeles and San Bernardino, the number doubling within a few months.  Indeed, had the plan of the boomers succeeded, the whole stretch between the two cities would have been solidly built up with what in the end proved, alas! to be but castles in the air.  Wherever there was acreage, there was room for new towns; and with their inauguration, thousands of buyers were on hand to absorb lots that were generally sold on the installment plan.  More frequently than otherwise, payments became delinquent and companies "went broke;" and then the property reverted to acreage again.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>592</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>571</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>If every conceivable trick in advertising was not resorted to, it was probably due to oversight.  Bands, announcing new locations, were seen here and there in street cars, hay and other wagons and carriages (sometimes followed by fantastic parades a block long); and for every new location there was promised the early construction of magnificent hotels, theaters or other attractive buildings that seldom materialized.  When processions filled the streets, bad music filled the air.  Elephants and other animals of jungle and forest, as well as human freaks--the remnants of a stranded circus or two--were gathered into shows and used as magnets; while other ingenious methods were often invoked to draw crowds and gather in the shekels.  The statements as to climate were always verified, but in most other respects poor Martin Chuzzlewit's experience in the Mississippi town of Eden affords a rather graphic story of what was frequently in progress here during the never-to-be-forgotten days of the Boom.  As competition waxed keener, dishonest methods were more and more resorted to; thus schemers worked on the public's credulity and so attracted many a wagon-load of people to mass-meetings, called ostensibly for the purpose of advancing some worthy cause but really arranged to make possible an ordinary sale of real estate.  An endless chain of free lunches, sources of delight to the hobo element in particular, drew not only these chronic idlers but made a victim of many a worthier man.  Despite all of this excitement, the village aspect in some particulars had not yet disappeared: in vacant lots not far from the center of town it was still not unusual to see cows contentedly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>593</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>572</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Extraordinary situations arose out of the speculative mania as when over-ambitious folks, fearful perhaps lest they might be unable to obtain corner- and other desirably-situated lots stationed themselves in line two or three days before date of anticipated land-sales; and even though quite twenty selections were frequently the limit to one purchase, the more optimistic of our boomers would often have two or three substitutes waiting in a line extending irregularly far down the sidewalk and assuming at night the appearance of a bivouac.  I have heard it said that as much as a hundred dollars would be paid to each of these messengers, and that the purchaser of such service, apprehensive lest he might be sold out would visit his representative many times before the eventful day.  Later, this system was improved and official place-numbers were given, thus permitting people to conduct their negotiations without much loss of time.</P>
023.sgm:<P>So little scientific consideration was given to actual values that they were regulated according to calendar and clock; lots in new subdivisions remaining unsold were advertised to advance to certain new prices at such and such an hour, on such and such a day.  After these artificial changes, investors would gleefully rub their hands and explain to the downcast outsider that they had "just gotten in in time;" and the downcast outsider, of whom there were many, yielding after repeated assaults of this kind, would himself become inoculated with the fever and finally prove the least restrained boomer of them all. From what I read at the time and heard after my return, I may safely declare that during the height of the infection, two-thirds of our population were, in a sense, more insane than sane.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Syndicates, subdivisions and tracts: these were the most popular terms of the day and nearly everybody had a finger in one or the other pie.  There were enough subdivisions to accommodate ten million people; and enough syndicates to handle the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>594</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>573</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Wide-awake syndicates evolved new methods, one of which--the lottery plan--became popular.  A piece of land would be prepared for the market; and after the opening of streets, as many chances would be sold as there were lots in the tract. On the eventful day, the distribution took place in the presence of the interested and eager participants, each of whom made a selection as his number was drawn.  To increase the attractiveness of some of these offers, cottages and even more elaborate houses were occasionally promised for subsequent erection on a few lots.  The excitement at many of these events, I was informed, beggared description.  Among others sold in this manner at the beginning, or possibly even just before the Boom, were the Williamson Tract, beginning at the corner of Pico and Figueroa streets and once the home-place of the Formans, and the O. W. Childs orchard on the east side of Main Street and running south from what is now about Eleventh. Both of these drawings took place in Turnverein Hall, and the chances sold at about three hundred and fifty dollars each.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tricksters, of whom at such times there are always enough, could exercise their mischievous proclivities; and the unwary one, who came to be known as the tenderfoot, was as usual easily hoodwinked.  Land advertised as having "water privileges" proved to be land <HI REND="italics">under water</HI>
023.sgm: or in dry creeks; land described as possessing scenic attractions consisted of--mountains and chasms!  So situated were many of these lots that no use whatever could be made of them; and I presume that they are without value even now.  One of the effects of subdividing a good part of the ten thousand or more acres of agricultural land in the city then irrigated from the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
023.sgm: was both to reduce the calls for the service of the city <HI REND="italics">Zanjero</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>595</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>574</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Advertisers tried to outdo themselves and each other in original and captivating announcements; with the result that while many displayed wit and good humor, others were ridiculously extravagant.  The Artesian Water Company came onto the market with three hundred acres of land near Compton and the assurance that "while the water in this section will be stocked, the stock will not be watered."  Alvan D. Brock another purveyor of ranches, declared:</P>
023.sgm:<P>I mean business, and do not allow any alfalfa to grow under my feet.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A. F. Kercheval, the poet, to whom I have already referred, relieved himself of this exuberance regarding the Kercheval Tract (on Santa F&eacute; Avenue, between Lemon and Alamo streets):</P>
023.sgm:<P>HE OR SHE</P>
023.sgm:<P>That Hesitates is Lost!</P>
023.sgm:<P>An axiom that holds good in real estate, as well as in</P>
023.sgm:<P>affairs of the heart.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Selah!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Another advertisement read as follows:</P>
023.sgm:<P>HALT!  HALT!  HALT!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Speculators and Homeseekers, Attention!</P>
023.sgm:<P>$80,000-Eighty Thousand Dollars--$80,000</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sold in a Day at the Beautiful</P>
023.sgm:<P>McGarry Tract</P>
023.sgm:<P>Bounded by Ninth and Tenth and Alameda Streets.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Come Early, before they are All Gone!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Still another was displayed:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Boom!<HSEP>Boom!</P>
023.sgm:<P>ARCADIA!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Boom!<HSEP>Boom!</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>596</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>575</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>And now and then, from a quarter to a full page would be taken to advertise a new town or subdivision, with a single word--the name of the place--such as</P>
023.sgm:<P>RAMIREZ!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vernon and Vernondale were names given to subdivisions on Central Avenue near Jefferson Street.  Advertising the former, the real-estate poet was called into requisition with these lines:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Go, wing thy flight from star to star,<LB>From world to luminous world as far<LB>As the universe spreads its flaming wall,<LB>Take all the pleasure of all the spheres,<LB>And multiply each through endless years,<LB>One Winter at Vernon is worth them all!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>while, in setting forth the attractions of the Lily Langtry Tract, the promoter drew as follows from the store of English verse:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Sweet Vernon, loveliest village of the plain,<LB>Where health and plenty cheers the laboring swain,<LB>Where smiling Spring its earliest visit paid,<LB>And parting Summer's lingering blooms delayed;</HI>
023.sgm:<P>concluding the announcement with the following lines characteristic of the times:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Catch on before the whole country rushes to Vernondale! Every man who wishes a home in Paradise should locate in this, the loveliest district of the whole of Southern California.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>597</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>576</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>This is where the orange groves are loveliest!<LB>This is where the grapes are most luxuriant!<LB>This is where the vegetation is grandest!<LB>This is where the flowers are prettiest!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>With the Boom affecting not only Los Angeles but also each acre of her immediate vicinity, Pasadena and the district lying between the two towns took on new life.  Five thousand inhabitants boasted a million dollars in deposits and a couple of millions invested in new buildings; while "gilt-edged Raymond," a colony surrounding the Raymond Hotel, became a bustling center. In March, George Whitcomb laid out Glendora, naming it (with the use of a couple of additional letters) after his wife, Ledora; and at the first day's sale, he auctioned off three hundred lots.  In December, the old-established town of Pomona was incorporated.  Whittier, started by Quakers from Indiana, Iowa and Illinois, and christened in honor of the New England poet, began at this time with a boom, two hundred thousand dollars' worth of property having been sold there in four months.  This prosperity led one newspaper to say with extreme modesty:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whittier is the coming place!  It will dwarf Monrovia and eclipse Pasadena.  Nothing can stop it!  The Quakers are coming in from all over the United States;</P>
023.sgm:<P>and another journal contained an advertisement commencing as follows:</P>
023.sgm:<P>WHITTIER!  WHITTIER !!  WHITTIER!!!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Queen of the Foothills and Crown of the San Gabriel Valley.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I. W. Lord established Lordsburg--or at least an elaborate hotel there, for in those days a good hotel was half of a town; and when Lordsburg slumped, he sold the building to a colony of Dunkers for a college.  Nadeau Park was projected as a town at the junction of the Atchison, Topeka &amp; Santa F&eacute;'s Ballona road and the Southern Pacific.  Santa Ana, too, after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>598</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>577</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>THIS IS PURE GOLD!!!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Ana,</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Metropolis of Southern California's Fairest Valley!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chief Among Ten Thousand, or the One</P>
023.sgm:<P>Altogether Lovely!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Beautiful!  Busy!  Bustling!  Booming!  It</P>
023.sgm:<P>Can't be Beat!</P>
023.sgm:<P>The town now has the biggest kind</P>
023.sgm:<P>of a big, big boom.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A Great Big Boom!  And you</P>
023.sgm:<P>Can Accumulate Ducats by Investing!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fullerton was started in July, when ninety-two thousand dollars changed hands within half a day; and conditions favoring the young community, it survived.  Rivera, in the Upper Los Nietos Valley, also then came into being.  The glories of Tustin (founded in 1867 by Columbus Tustin, but evidencing little prosperity until twenty years later) were proclaimed through such unassuming advertisements as this:</P>
023.sgm:<P>TUSTIN</P>
023.sgm:<P>THE BEAUTIFUL</P>
023.sgm:<P>Unexcelled in charm and loveliness.</P>
023.sgm:<P>An Earthly Eden Unsurpassed in</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wealth of Flower and Foliage.</P>
023.sgm:<P>However, Imagination Cannot Conceive It:</P>
023.sgm:<P>It must be seen to be realized,</P>
023.sgm:<P>supplemented by the following versification:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>When the Angel of Peace to Earth first descended,<LB>To bless with his presence the children of men,<LB>'Mid the fairest of scenes his pathway e'er tended,<LB>And unto his smile the glad earth smiled again.</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>599</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>578</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">He joyed in the fragrance of orange and roses,<LB>And loved 'mid their glances to linger or roam,<LB>And he said: "Here in Tustin, where Beauty reposes,<LB>I also will linger or build me a home!"</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In April, Jonathan S. Slauson and a company of Los Angeles capitalists laid out and started the town of Azusa, on a slop eight hundred feet high in a rich and promising country.  No' so far away was Palomares, announced through the following reassuring poster:</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grand Railroad Excursion and Genuine</P>
023.sgm:<P>AUCTION SALE!</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">No Chenanekin!!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Thursday, June 7, 1887.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Beautiful Palomares, Pomona Valley!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lunch, Coffee, Lemonade, and Ice Water Free!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Full Band of Music.</P>
023.sgm:<P>And here it may not be without interest to note the stations then passed in making such an excursion from Los Angeles to the new town: Commercial Street, Garvanza, Raymond, Pasadena, Lamanda Park (named, Henry W. O'Melveny tells me after Amanda, wife of L. J. Rose), Santa Anita, Arcadia Monrovia, Duarte, Glendora, San Dimas and Lordsburg.  Providencia <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, consisting of seventeen thousand acres o: mountain and valley, was opened up in 1887 and the new town of Burbank was laid out; J. Downey Harvey, J. G. Downey's heir and David Burbank, the good-natured dentist and old-timer then living on the site of the Burbank Theater (once the orchard of J. J. Warner), being among the directors.  About the same time, twelve thousand acres of the Lankershim <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: adjoining the Providencia, were disposed of.  Sixty-five dollars was asked for a certificate of stock, which was exchangeable later for an acre of land.  Glendale was another child of the Boom, for the development of which much dependence was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>600</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>579</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:placed on a new motor railroad.  Rosecrans and its Addition were two other tracts relying on improved facilities for communicating with Los Angeles.  Under the caption, <HI REND="italics">Veni, Vidi, Vici!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Speaking of the Boom, I recall an amusing situation such as now and then relieved the dark gloom of the aftermath. When a well-known suburb of Los Angeles was laid out, someone proposed that a road be named Euclid Avenue; whereupon a prominent citizen protested vigorously and asked <HI REND="italics">what Mr. Euclid had ever done for Southern California</HI>
023.sgm:<P>During 1887, and at the suggestion of George E. Gard, many neighboring towns--a number of which have long since become mere memories--donated each a lot, through whose sale a Los Angeles County exhibit at the reunion of the Grand Army of the Republic was made possible; and among these places were Alosta, Gladstone, Glendora, Azusa, Beaumont, Arcadia, Raymond, San Gabriel, Glendale, Burbank, Lamar's Addition to Alosta, Rosecrans, St. James, Bethune, Mondonville, Olivewood, Oleander, Lordsburg, McCoy's<ANCHOR ID="n38-41">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: Addition to Broad Acres, Ivanhoe, New Vernon, Alta Vista, Nadeau Park, Bonita Tract, San Dimas, Port Ballona, Southside, Ontario, Walleria and Ocean Spray.  When the lots were sold at Armory Hall, some ten thousand dollars was realized--twelve hundred and seventy-five dollars, paid by Colonel Banbury for a piece of land at Pasadena, being the highest price brought. Not even the celebrity given the place through the gift of a lot to the Grand Old Man of England saved Gladstone; and St; James soon passed into the realms of the forgotten, notwithstanding that one hundred and fifty vehicles and five hundred people were engaged, in June, in caring for the visitors who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>601</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>580</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n38-41">Bearing the name of Frank McCoy, who died on March 4th, 1915.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Ben E. Ward--a good citizen whose office was in the renovated municipal adobe--operated with Santa Monica realty during the Boom, somewhat as did Colonel Tom Fitch in the cradle days of the bay city.  He ran private trains and sold acre and villa lots, and five- and ten-acre farms, for ten per cent. of the price "at the fall of the hammer;" the balance of the first quarter payable on receipt of the agreement, and the other payments in six, twelve and eighteen months.  On one occasion in June, Ward was advertising as follows:</P>
023.sgm:<P>HO, FOR THE BEACH!</P>
023.sgm:<P>To-morrow, To-morrow!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grand Auction Sale at</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Monica.</P>
023.sgm:<P>350--Acres--350</P>
023.sgm:<P>One of the Grandest Panoramic Views the Human Eye ever rested upon, including Ballona, Lake and Harbor, with its outgoing and in-coming vessels, the Grand Old Pacific, the handsome new Hotel Arcadia, while in the distance may be seen Los Angeles, the Pride of All, and the coming city of two hundred thousand people.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Long Beach came in for its share of the Boom.  In July, H. G. Wilshire (after whom, I believe, Wilshire Boulevard was named), as general manager of the new hotel at that place, offered lots at one hundred and fifty dollars and upward, advertising under the caption, "Peerless Long Beach!" and declaring that the place was "no new settlement, but a prosperous town of two thousand people," to be "reached without change of cars."  The hotel was to be doubled in size, streets were to be sprinkled and bathhouses  with hot and cold water--were to be built.  One of the special attractions promised was even a billiard-room for ladies!  But the hotel was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>602</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>581</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Besides the improving of Santa Monica and the expanding of San Pedro, several harbor projects were proposed in the days of the Boom.  About the first of June, 1887, Port Ballona--formerly Will Tell's--began to be advertised as "The Future Harbor of Southern California" and the ocean terminus of the California Central Railroad, which was a part of the Atchison, Topeka &amp; Santa F&eacute; system.  In August, thousands of people assembled at the beach to celebrate the opening of La Ballona Harbor.  The enterprise had been backed by Louis Mesmer, Bernard Mills, Frank Sabichi and others; and Mesmer, General Nelson A. Miles, ex-Governor Stoneman, Eugene Germain and J. D. Lynch were among the speakers.  A syndicate, headed by J. R. Tuffree, which purchased the Palos Verdes <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>As the Boom progressed and railroads continued to advertise Los Angeles, the authorities began to look with consternation on the problem of housing the crowds still booked to come from the East; and it was soon recognized that many prospective settlers would need to roost, for a while, as best they could in the surrounding territory.  The Hotel Splendid, an enterprise fostered by Hammel &amp; Denker, proprietors of the United States Hotel, was then commenced on Main Street, between Ninth and Tenth, though it was never completed.  Numerous capitalists and business houses encouraged the proposition; yet the site was sold, but a single generation ago, to O. T. Johnson, a local philanthropist, for about twenty-five thousand dollars--a conservative estimate placing its present value at not much less than two and a half millions.</P>
023.sgm:<P>But there are other indications of the strength, or perhaps the weakness, of the Boom.  In 1887, the total assessment of the young City and County was three million dollars, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>603</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>582</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>During this wild excitement, few men of position or reputation who came to town escaped interrogation as to what they thought of the Boom.  "Phil" D. Armour, head of the Armour Packing Company, was one who arrived late in July, and whose opinion was immediately sought; and his answer indicated the unbounded confidence inspired in the minds of even outsiders by the unheard-of development of land values.  "Boom--will it break soon?" repeated Armour and proceeded to answer his own query.  "There is no boom to break!  This is merely the preliminary to a boom which will so outclass the present activities that its sound will be as thunder to the cracking of a hickory nut!"  Nor was Armour the only one who was so carried away by the phenomena of the times: San Francisco watched Los Angeles with wonder and interest, marveling at all she heard of the magic changes south of the Teh&aacute;chepi, and asking herself if Los Angeles might not be able to point the way to better methods of city-building?</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have thus endeavored to give a slight idea of the lack of mental poise displayed by our good people in the year 1887, when the crop of millionaires was so great that to be one was no distinction at all.  But alas! the inevitable collapse came and values tumbled fully as rapidly as they had advanced, finding many (who but a short period before had based their worth on investments figured at several times their value) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>604</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>583</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>To be sure, some level-headed people, acting more conservatively than the majority, in time derived large profits from the steady increase in values.  Those who bought judiciously during that period are now the men of wealth in Los Angeles; and this is more particularly true as to ownership in business sections of the city.  Even at the height of the Boom but little property on any of the streets south of Fifth was worth more than two hundred dollars a foot.  Following the Boom, there was an increase of building, much of it doubtless due to contracts already entered into.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Incidental to the opening of the Southern Pacific Railroad's route between the North and South by way of the coast, on August 20th, a great railway <HI REND="italics">f&ecirc;te</HI>
023.sgm:<P>L. E. Mosher, who had much literary ability and is still remembered as the author of the poem, <HI REND="italics">The Stranded Bugle</HI>
023.sgm:, joined the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: staff in August and became prominently identified with the conduct of that newspaper.  Later, he left journalism and entered on a business career in New York; but experiencing reverses, he returned to Los Angeles.  Failing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>605</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>584</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Late in August, the paving of Main Street, the first thoroughfare of Los Angeles to be so improved, was begun, much to the relief of our townspeople who had too long borne the inconvenience of dusty and muddy roadways, and who, after heavy rains the winter before, had in no uncertain fashion given utterance to their disgust at the backward conditions.  This expression was the result of a carefully and generally organized movement; for one morning it was discovered that all of the principal streets were covered with mounds of earth resembling little graves, into each of which had been thrust imitation tombstones bearing such inscriptions as the following:</P>
023.sgm:<P>BEWARE OF  QUICKSAND!</P>
023.sgm:<P>FARE FOR FERRYING ACROSS, 25 CENTS.</P>
023.sgm:<P>NO DUCK-HUNTING ALLOWED IN THIS POND!</P>
023.sgm:<P>BOATS LEAVE THIS LANDING EVERY HALF-HOUR.</P>
023.sgm:<P>REQUIESCAT IN PACE!</P>
023.sgm:<P>This year, the <HI REND="italics">Sued-Californische Post</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1887, the Turnverein-Germania sold to L. J. Rose and J. B. Lankershim, for removal and renovation, the frame structure on Spring Street which for so many years had served it as a home, and erected in its place a substantial brick building costing about forty thousand dollars.  Six or seven years afterward, the society resold that property--to be used later as the Elks' Hall--for one hundred thousand dollars; then it bought the lot at 319 and 321 South Main Street, and erected there its new stone-fronted Turner Hall.  On the occasion of the cornerstone laying, on August 14th, 1887, when the Turnverein-Germania, the Austrian Verein and the Schwabenverein joined hands and voices, the Germans celebrated their advancement by festivities long to be remembered, ex-Mayor Henry T. Hazard making the chief address; but I dare say that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>606</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>585</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>How true it is that a man should confine himself to that which he best understands is shown in the case of L. J. Rose, who later went into politics, and in 1887 was elected State Senator.  Neglecting his business for that of the public, he borrowed money and was finally compelled to dispose of his interest in the New York house.  Indeed, financially speaking, he went from bad to worse; and the same year he sold his magnificent estate to an English syndicate for $1,250,000, receiving $750,000 in cash and the balance in stock.  The purchasers made a failure of the enterprise and Rose lost $500,000. He was almost penniless when on May 17th, 1899, he died--a suicide.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rose was an indefatigable worker for the good of the community, and was thoroughly interested in every public movement.  For years he was one of my intimate friends; and as I write these lines, I am moved with sentiments of sadness and deep regret.  Let us hope that, in the life beyond, he is enjoying that peace denied him here.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles &amp; San Gabriel Valley Railroad, begun the previous year by J. F. Crank and destined to be absorbed by the Santa F&eacute;, was opened for traffic to Pasadena on September 17th by a popular excursion in which thousands participated.</P>
023.sgm:<P>With the increase in the number and activity of the Chinese here, came a more frequent display of their native customs and ceremonies, the joss house and the theater being early instituted.  On October 21st, a street parade, feast and theatrical performance with more or less barbarous music marked a celebration that brought Mongolians from near and far.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>607</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>586</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On October 24th, Cardinal Gibbons made his first visit to Los Angeles--the most notable call, I believe, of so eminent a prelate since my settling here.</P>
023.sgm:<P>One of the numerous fires of the eighties that gave great alarm was the blaze of October 28th, which destroyed the Santa F&eacute; Railroad depot and with it a trainload of oil.  The conflagration proved obstinate to fight, although the good work of the department prevented its spread.  A host of people for hours watched the spectacular scene.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Raymond Hotel, commonly spoken of as belonging to Pasadena although standing just inside the city to the south, was completed in November; and catering exclusively to tourists,  its situation on an eminent knoll overlooking the towns and orange-groves contributed to make it widely famous.  In April, 1895, it was swept by fire, to be rebuilt on larger and finer lines.  The hotel La Pintoresca, on Fair Oaks Avenue, burned four or five years ago, was another Pasadena hostelry, where I often stopped when wishing to escape the hurly-burly of city life.  Now its site and gardens have been converted into a public park.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In November, following the efforts made by the Board of Trade to secure one of the veterans' homes projected by Congress, the managers of the National Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers visited Los Angeles.  A committee, representing business men and the Grand Army, showed the visitors around and as a result of the co&ouml;peration of General Nelson A. Miles, Judge Brunson (representing Senator Jones) and others, three hundred acres of the old San Vicente <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In November, local Democratic and Republican leaders, wishing to draft a new charter for Los Angeles, agreed on a non-partisan Board consisting of William H. Workman, Cameron E. Thom, I. R. Dunkelberger, Dr. Joseph Hurts, Walter S. Moore, Jeremiah Baldwin, General John Mansfield, P. M. Scott, J. H. Book, Jos&eacute; G. Estudillo, Charles E. Day, Thomas B. Brown, W. W. Robinson, A. F. Mackey and George H. Bonebrake; and the following 31st of May the Board was duly elected.  Workman was chosen Chairman and Moore, Secretary; and on October 20th the result of their deliberations was adopted by the City.  In January, 1889, the Legislature confirmed the action of the Common Council. The new charter increased the number of wards from five to nine, and provided for the election of a councilman from each ward.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As the result of an agitation in favor of Los Angeles, the Southwest headquarters of the United States Army were transferred from Whipple Barracks, Arizona, about the beginning of 1887, the event being celebrated by a dinner to Brigadier-General Nelson A. Miles, at the Nadeau Hotel.  Within less than a year, however, General Miles was transferred to San Francisco, General B. H. Grierson succeeding him at this post.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>608</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>588</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIX<LB>PROPOSED STATE DIVISION<LB>1888-1891</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>BY agreement among property owners, the widening of Fort Street from Second to Ninth began in February, 1888.  This was not accomplished without serious opposition, many persons objecting to the change on the ground that it would ruin the appearance of their bordering lots.  I was one of those, I am frank to say, who looked with disfavor on the innovation; but time has shown that it was an improvement, the widened street (now known as Broadway), being perhaps the only fine business avenue of which Los Angeles can boast.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Booth and Barrett, the famous tragedians, visited Los Angeles together this winter, giving a notable performance in Child's Opera House, their combined genius showing to greatest advantage in the presentation of <HI REND="italics">Julius C&aelig;sar</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Othello</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the end of the seventies, I dipped into an amusing volume, <HI REND="italics">The Rise and Fall of the Mustache</HI>
023.sgm:, by Robert J. Burdette--then associated with the <HI REND="italics">Burlington Hawkeye</HI>
023.sgm: --little thinking that a decade later would find the author famous and a permanent resident of Southern California.<ANCHOR ID="n39-42">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n39-42">Dr. Burdette died on November 19th, 1914.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>George Wharton James, an Englishman, also took up his residence in Southern California in 1888, finally settling in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>609</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>589</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Through the publication by D. Appleton &amp; Company of one of the early books of value dealing with our section of the State, progress was made, in the late eighties, in durably advertising the Coast.  This volume was entitled, <HI REND="italics">California of the South</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Very shortly after their coming to Los Angeles, in April, 1888, I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. and Mrs. Tom&aacute;s Lorenzo Duque with whom I have since been on terms of intimacy.  Mr. Duque, a Cuban by birth, is a broad-minded, educated gentleman of the old school.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Frederick William Braun established on May 1st, at 127 New High Street, the first exclusively wholesale drug house in Southern California, later removing to 287 North Main Street, once the site of the adobe in which I was married.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The same season my brother, whose health had become precarious, was again compelled to take a European trip; and it was upon his return in September, 1890, that he settled in Los Angeles, building his home at 1043 South Grand Avenue, but a few doors from mine.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The coast-line branch of the Santa F&eacute; Railroad was opened in August between Los Angeles and San Diego.</P>
023.sgm:<P>W. E. Hughes has been credited with suggesting the second and present Chamber of Commerce, and J. F. Humphreys is said to have christened it when it was organized on October 15th.  E. W. Jones was the first President and Thomas A. Lewis the first Secretary.  In addition to these, S. B. Lewis, Colonel H. G. Otis, J. V. Wachtel (a son-in-law of L. J. Rose), Colonel I. R. Dunkelberger and William H. Workman are entitled to a great deal of credit for the movement.  So well known is this institution, even internationally, and so much has been written about it, that I need hardly speak of its remarkable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>610</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>590</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Late in the fall the Los Angeles Theater, a neat brick edifice. was opened on Spring Street, between Second and Third.  At that time, other places of amusement were the Childs or Grand Opera House, Mott Hall, over Mott Market--an unassuming room without stage facilities, where Adelina Patti once sang, and where Charles Dickens, Jr., gave a reading from his father's books--and Hazard's Pavilion at Fifth and Olive, built on the present site of the Temple Auditorium by Mayor H. T. Hazard and his associate, George H. Pike.  During the Boom especially and for a few years thereafter (as when in 1889, Evangelist Moody held forth), this latter place was very popular; and among celebrities who lectured there was Thomas Nast.  <HI REND="italics">Harpers</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On the morning of October 21st, the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Times</HI>
023.sgm: created one of the most noted surprises in the history of American politics, making public the so-called Murchison letters, through which the British diplomat Lord Sackville West, caught strangely napping, was recalled in disgrace from his eminent post as British Minister to Washington.  In 1882, George Osgoodby located at Pomona.  Though of English grandparents, Osgoodby possessed a strong Republican bias; and wishing to test the attitude of the Administration toward Great Britain, he formed the scheme of fathoming Cleveland's purpose even at the British Minister's expense.  Accordingly, on September 4th, 1888--in the midst of the Presidential campaign--he addressed Lord West, signing himself Charles F. Murchison and pretending that he was still a loyal though naturalized Englishman needing advice as to how to vote. "Murchison" reminded his lordship that, just as a small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>611</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>591</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:State had defeated Tilden, so "a mere handful of naturalized countrymen might easily carry California."  The British Minister was betrayed by the plausible words; and on September 13th he answered the Pomona farmer, at the same time indicating his high regard for Cleveland as a friend of England. Osgoodby gave the correspondence publicity through the <HI REND="italics">Times;</HI>
023.sgm:<P>During the winter of 1888-89, Alfred H. and Albert H. Smiley, twin brothers who had amassed a fortune through successful hotel management at summer-resorts in the mountains of New York, came to California and purchased about two hundred acres near Redlands, situated on a ridge commanding a fine view of San Timoteo Ca&ntilde;on; and there they laid out the celebrated Ca&ntilde;on Crest Park, more popularly known as Smiley Heights.  They also gave the community a public library.  On account of their connections, they were able to attract well-to-do settlers and tourists to their neighborhood and so contribute, in an important way, to the development and fame of Redlands.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The City Hall was erected, during the years 1888-89, on the east side of Broadway between Second and Third streets on property once belonging to L. H. Titus.  As a detail indicating the industrial conditions of that period, I may note that John Hanlon, the contractor, looked with pride upon the fact that he employed as many as thirty to forty workmen and all at one time!</P>
023.sgm:<P>Another effort in the direction of separating this part of California from the northern section was made in December, 1888 and here received enthusiastic support.  General William Vandever, then a representative in Congress from the Sixth District, introduced into that body a resolution providing for a State to be called South California.  Soon after, a mass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>612</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>592</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On January 1st, 1889, Pasadena held her first Rose Tournament.  There were chariot races and other sports, but the principal event was a parade of vehicles of every description which, moving along under the graceful burden of their beautiful floral decorations, presented a magnificent and typically Southern California winter sight.  The tournament was so successful that it has become an annual event participated in by many and attracting visitors from near and far.  It is managed by a permanent organization, the Tournament of Roses Association, whose members in 1904 presented Tournament Park, one of the City's pleasure-grounds, to Pasadena.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Once outdistanced by both Main and Spring streets, and yet more and more rising to importance as the city grew, Fort Street--a name with an historical significance--in 1889 was officially called Broadway.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fred L. Baker, who reached Los Angeles with his father, Milo Baker in 1874, designed in 1889, and when he was but twenty-four years of age, the first locomotive built in Los Angeles.  It was constructed at the Baker Iron Works for the Los Angeles County Railroad, and was dubbed the <HI REND="italics">Providencia</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On February 16th, Jean Louis Sainsevain, everywhere pleasantly known as Don Louis, died here, aged seventy-three years.</P>
023.sgm:<P>I have spoken of L. J. Rose's love for thoroughbred horses. His most notable possession was <HI REND="italics">Stamboul</HI>
023.sgm:, the celebrated stallion, which he sold for fifty thousand dollars.  At Rose Meade, toward the end of the eighties, there were about a hundred and twenty pedigreed horses; and at a sale in 1889 fifty of these brought one hundred and ninety thousand dollars.  This reminds me that early in April, the same year, Nicol&aacute;s Covarr&uacute;bias (in whose stable on Los Angeles Street, but a short time before, nearly a hundred horses had perished <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>613</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>593</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:by fire) sold <HI REND="italics">Gladstone</HI>
023.sgm:<P>General Volney E. Howard died in May, aged eighty years, just ten years after he had concluded his last notable public service as a member of the State Constitutional Convention.</P>
023.sgm:<P>One of those who well illustrate the constant search for the ideal is Dr. Joseph Kurtz.  In the spring of 1889 he toured Europe to inspect clinics and hospitals; and inspired by what he had seen, he helped, on his return, to more firmly establish the Medical College of Los Angeles, later and now a branch of the University of California.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1889, I built another residence at 1051 South Grand Avenue, and there we lived for several years.  As in the case of our Fort Street home, in which four of our children died, so here again joy changed to sorrow when, on November 18th, 1890, our youngest daughter, Josephine Rose, was taken from us at the age of eight years.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles Public Library was once more moved in July from the Downey Block to the City Hall where, with some six thousand books and about one hundred and thirty members, it remained until April, 1906, when it was transferred by Librarian Charles F. Lummis to the Annex of the Laughlin Building.  It then had over one hundred thousand volumes. In the fall of 1908, it was removed to the new Hamburger Building.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel James G. Eastman, who arrived in Los Angeles during the late sixties, associated himself with Anson Brunson in the practice of law and, as a cultured and aristocratic member of the Bar, became well known.  For the centennial celebration here he was chosen to deliver the oration; yet thirteen years later he died in the County Poorhouse, having in the meantime sunk to the lowest depths of degradation.  Drinking himself literally into the gutter, he lose his self-respect and finally married a common squaw.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The early attempts to create another county, of which Anaheim was to have been the seat, are known.  In 1889, the struggle for division was renewed, but under changed conditions.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>614</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>594</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Although the cable lines on Second and Temple streets were not unqualified successes, J. F. Crank and Herman Silver in 1887 obtained a franchise for the construction of a double-track cable railway in Los Angeles, and in 1889 both the Boyle Heights and the Downey Avenue lines were in operation. On August 3d, 1889, the Boyle Heights section of the Los Angeles Cable Railway was inaugurated with a luncheon at the Power House--invitations to which had been sent out by the Boyle Heights Board of Trade, William H. Workman, President--preceded by a parade of cars; and on November 2d, the official opening with its procession of trains on the Downey Avenue line culminated, at noon, with speech-making at the Downey Avenue Bridge, and in the evening with a sham battle and fireworks.  Some old-timers took part in the literary exercises, and among others I may mention Mayor Henry T. Hazard, D J. S. Griffin, General R. H. Chapman and the Vice-President and Superintendent of the system, J. C. Robinson.  The East Los Angeles line started at Jefferson Street, ran north on Grand Avenue to Seventh, east on Seventh to Broadway, north c Broadway to First, east on First to Spring, north on Spring the Plaza, down San Fernando Street, then on the viaduct built over the Southern Pacific tracks and thence out Downey Avenue.  The Boyle Heights line started on Seventh Street at Alvarado, ran along Seventh to Broadway, up Broadway to First and east on that street to the junction of First ar Chicago streets.  Quite a million dollars, it is said, was invested in the machinery and tracks--so soon to give way to the more practicable electric trolley trams--to say nothing of the expenditures for rolling stock; and for the time being the local transportation problem seemed solved, although the cars first used <illus entity="a023-0138" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">George W. Burton</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0139" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Ben C. Truman</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0140" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Charles F. Lummis</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0141" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Charles Dwight Willard</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0142" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Grand Avenue Residence (left), Harris Newmark, 1889</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>615</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>595</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On November 4th, Bernard Cohn, one of the originators of Hellman, Haas &amp; Company (now Haas, Baruch &amp; Company, the well-known grocers), and a pioneer of 1856, died. During the late seventies and early eighties, he was a man of much importance, both as a merchant and a City Father, sitting in the Council of 1888 and becoming remarkably well-read in the ordinances and decrees of the Los Angeles of his day.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Like Abbot Kinney, Dr. Norman Bridge, an authority on tuberculosis, came to Sierra Madre in search of health, in 1890; lived for a while after that at Pasadena, and finally settled in Los Angeles.  Five or six years after he arrived here, Dr. Bridge began to invest in Californian and Mexican oil and gas properties.  Despite his busy life, he has found time to further higher culture, having served as Trustee of the Throop Institute and as President of the Southwest Museum, to both of which institutions he has made valuable contributions; while he has published two scholarly volumes of essays and addresses.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thomas Edward Gibbon who, since his arrival in 1888, has influenced some of the most important movements for the benefit of Los Angeles, and whose activities have been so diversified, in 1890 bought the <HI REND="italics">Daily Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<P>After living in Los Angeles thirty years and having already achieved much, I. W. Hellman moved to San Francisco on March 2d, 1890, and there reorganized the Nevada Bank. Still a resident of the northern city, he has become a vital part of its life and pre&euml;minent in its financial affairs.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>616</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>596</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Judge Walter Van Dyke was here in the early fifties, a! though it was some years before I knew him; and I am told that at that time he almost concluded a partnership with Judge Hayes for the practice of law.  He was Judge of the Superior Court when the City of Los Angeles claimed title--while I was President of the Temple Block Company--to about nine fee of the north end of Temple Block.  The instigator of this suit was Louis Mesmer, who saw the advantage that would accrue to his property, at the corner of Main and Requena streets, the square should be enlarged; but we won the case.  A principal witness for us was Jos&eacute; Mascarel, and our attorneys were Stephen M. White and Houghton, Silent &amp; Campbell.  My second experience with Judge Van Dyke was in 1899, when I bought a lot from him at Santa Monica.  This attempt to enlarge the area at the junction reminds me of the days when the young folks of that neighborhood used to play tag and other games there.  Baseball, here called town-ball, was another game indulged in at that place.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Temple Block came to be known as Lawyer's Block because the upper floors were largely given over to members of that profession; and many of the attorneys I have had occasion to speak of as being here after our acquisition of the building had their headquarters there. Thus I became acquainted with Judge Charles Silent who, like his partner, Sherman Otis Houghton, hailed from San Jos&eacute; in 1886, or possibly 1885, the two doubtless coming together. Judge Houghton brought with him a reputation for great physical and moral courage; and the two friends formed with Alexander Campbell the law firm of Houghton, Silent &amp; Campbell.  Judge Charles Silent, a native of Baden, Germany (born Stumm, a name Englished on naturalization), father of Edward D. Silent and father-in-law of Frank J. Thomas, once served as Supreme Court Judge in Arizona, which office he was appointed by President Hayes; and since his arrival here, he has occupied a position of prime importance not only on account of his qualifications as an attorney but also through the invaluable service he has always rendered this community.  The judge now possesses a splendid orange orchard  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>617</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>597</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Ferdinand K. Rule came to Southern California in 1890 and soon after associated himself with the old Los Angeles Terminal Railroad.  He was a whole-souled, generous man, and was henceforth identified with nearly every movement for the welfare of his adopted city.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charles Dudley Warner, the distinguished American author, revisited Los Angeles in May, 1890, having first come here in March, three years before, while roughing it on a tour through California described in his book, <HI REND="italics">On Horseback</HI>
023.sgm:, published in 1888.  On his second trip, Warner, who was editor of <HI REND="italics">Harper's Magazine</HI>
023.sgm:, came ostensibly in the service of the Harpers, that firm later issuing his appreciative and well-illustrated volume, <HI REND="italics">Our Italy</HI>
023.sgm:<P>News of the death, in New York City, of General John C. Fr&eacute;mont was received here the day after, on July 14th, and caused profound regret.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>618</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>598</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In the fall, Henry H. Markham stood for the governorship of California and was elected, defeating ex-Mayor Pond of San Francisco by a majority of about eight thousand votes--thereby enabling the Southland to boast of having again supplied the foremost dignitary of the State.</P>
023.sgm:<P>After several years of post-graduate study in higher institutions of learning in Germany, Leo Newmark, son of J. P. Newmark, in 1887 received his degree of Doctor of Medicine from the University of Strassburg.  He then served in leading European hospitals, returning in 1890 to his native city, San Francisco, where he has attained much more than local eminence in his specialty, the diseases of the nerves.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The public pleasure-grounds later known as Hollenbeck Park were given to the City, in 1890-91, by William H. Workman and Mrs. J. E. Hollenbeck, Workman donating two-thirds and Mrs. Hollenbeck one-third of the land.  Workman also laid out the walks and built the dam before the transfer to the City authorities.  Mrs. Hollenbeck suggested the title, Workman-Hollenbeck Park; but Billy's proverbial modesty led him to omit his own name.  At about the same time, Mrs. Hollenbeck, recognizing the need of a refuge for worthy old people. and wishing to create a fitting memorial to her husband (who had died in 1885), endowed the Hollenbeck Home with thirteen and a half acres in the Boyle Heights district; to maintain which, she deeded, in trust to John D. Bicknell, John M. Elliott, Frank A. Gibson, Charles L. Batcheller and J. S. Chapman, several valuable properties, the most notable being the Hollenbeck Hotel and a block on Broadway near Seventh.</P>
023.sgm:<P>More than once I have referred to the Chino Ranch, long the home of pioneer Isaac Williams.  In his most extravagant dreams, he could not have foreseen that, in the years 1890-91 there would grow on many of his broad acres the much-needeD sugar-beet; nor could he have known that the first factory in the Southland to extract sugar from that source would be erected in a town bearing the name of Chino.  The inauguration of this important activity in Southern California was due to Henry T. and Robert Oxnard, the last-named then being engaged in cane-sugar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>619</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>599</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Five or six years after the Oxnards opened their Chino factory, J. Ross Clark and his brother, Senator William A. Clark, commenced the erection of a plant at Alamitos; and in the summer of 1897! the first beets there were sliced, under the superintendency of G. S. Dyer, now in Honolulu.  Since then, under a protective policy, several more refineries have started up in the neighborhood of Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In January, 1891, the Home of Peace Society was organized by the Hebrew ladies of Los Angeles, largely through the exertions of Mrs. M. Kremer, who was the first to conceive the idea of uniting Jewish women for the purpose of properly caring for and beautifying the last resting-place of their dead.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Amos G. Throop, of Chicago, more familiarly known among his friends and fellow-citizens as Father Throop, founded at Pasadena in 1891 the institution at first called Throop University and now known as the Throop College of Technology, giving it two hundred thousand dollars and becoming its first President.  The next year, when it was decided to specialize in manual training and polytechnic subjects, the name was again changed--remaining, until 1913, Throop Polytechnic Institute.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Southern California Science Association, later called the Southern California Academy of Science, was organized in 1891 with Dr. A. Davidson as its first President, and Mrs. Mary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>620</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>600</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The Friday Morning Club began its existence in April, 1891, as one of the social forces in the city, many of the leading lecturers of the country finding a place on its platform; and in 1899 the Club built its present attractive home on Figueroa Street.</P>
023.sgm:<P>As far as I was familiar with the facts, I have endeavored in these recollections to emphasize the careers of those who from little have builded much, and quite naturally think of William Dennison Stephens whom I came to know through his association as a salesman from 1891 until 1902 with M. A. Newmark &amp; Company, after which he engaged with J. E. Carr on Broadway, between Sixth and Seventh streets, in the retail grocery business.  Much of his success I attribute to honest, steady purpose and a winning geniality. By leaps and bounds, Stephens has advanced  in 1907 to the presidency of the Chamber of Commerce; in I 908 to the grand commandership of Knights Templars in California; in 1909 to the mayoralty of Los Angeles; and in 1910 to one of the advisory committee for the building of the aqueduct.  At present, he is the Congressman from the Tenth Congressional District.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Three years before Congressman Stephens entered the employ of the Newmarks, Robert L. Craig had just severed his relations with them to form, with R. H. Howell of Louisiana, the third wholesale grocery house to come to Los Angeles. In the course of a few years, Howell &amp; Craig sold out; but Craig, being young and ambitious, was not long in organizing another wholesale grocery known as Craig &amp; Stuart, which was succeeded by R. L. Craig &amp; Company.  At Craig's untimely death, Mrs. Craig, a woman of unusual mental talent, took the reins and, as one of the few women wholesale grocers in the country, has since guided the destinies of the concern; still finding time, in her arduous life, to serve the public as a very wide-awake member of the Board of Education.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Four other names of those once associated with my successors <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>621</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>601</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1891, the Terminal Railroad was completed from Los Angeles to East San Pedro, and rapid connection was thus established between Pasadena and the ocean, the accomplishment being celebrated, on November 24th, by an excursion. The road ran <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>622</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>602</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XL<LB>THE FIRST <HI REND="italics">FIESTAS</HI>
023.sgm:<LB>1892-1897</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>ACCOMPANIED by my family, I traveled to Alaska, in 1892, going as far as Muir Glacier and visiting, among other places, Metlakahtla (where we met Father William Duncan, the famous missionary and <HI REND="italics">Arctander</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Having arrived in the Bay of Sitka, our ship, the <HI REND="italics">Queen of the Pacific</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>623</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>603</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Meantime, not knowing how much damage had been done to the vessel, I hastily proceeded to gather our party together, when I missed Marco and only after considerable trouble found the boy in the cabin--such is the optimism of youth--with a huge sandwich in his hand, not in the least excited over the possible danger nor in any mood to allow a little incident of that kind to dissipate his appetite.  When it became evident that the ship had sustained no vital damage, the Captain announced that as soon as a higher tide would permit we should proceed on our way.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1892, Abbot Kinney and F. G. Ryan, disregarding the craze for property along the bluffs of old Santa Monica, gave practical evidence of their faith in the future of the sand dunes hereabouts by buying an extensive strip of land on the ocean-front, some of it being within the town of Santa Monica but most of it stretching farther south.  They induced the Santa F&eacute; to lay out a route to Ocean Park as the new town was to be called; and having erected piers, a bath house and an auditorium, they built numerous cottages.  Hardly was this enterprise well under way, however, when Ryan died and T. H. Dudley acquired his share in the undertaking.  In 1901, A. R. Fraser, G. M. Jones and H. R. Gage purchased Dudley's half interest; and the owners began to put the lots on the market.  One improvement after another was made, involving heavy expenditures; and in 1904, Ocean Park was incorporated as a city.</P>
023.sgm:<P>E. L. Doheny and a partner had the good luck to strike some of the first oil found in quantities within the city limits. They began operations in February on West State Street, in the very residence section of the town; and at about one hundred and sixty feet below the surface, they found oil enough to cause general excitement.  Mrs. Emma A. Summers, who had been dealing in real estate since she came in 1881, quickly sank a well on Court Street near Temple which in a short time produced so lavishly that Mrs. Summers became one of the largest individual operators in crude oil.  She is now known as the Oil Queen.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At the suggestion of Mrs. M. Burton Williamson, an interesting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>624</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>604</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>As early as the height of the great Boom, Professor T. S. C. Lowe (to whom I have referred in the story of an experiment in making gas) advocated the construction of a railroad up the mountain later officially designated Mt. Lowe; and almost immediately financiers acted on the proposal and ordered the route surveyed.  The collapse of the Boom, however, then made the financing of the project impossible; and the actual work of building the road was begun only in 1892.  On the Fourth of July of the following year, the first car carrying a small party of invited guests successfully ascended the incline; and on August 23d the railway was formally opened to the public, the occasion being made a holiday.  In 1894, the Mt. Lowe Astronomical Observatory was built.  At one time, the railway was owned by Valentine Peyton, my agreeable neighbor and friend then and now residing on Westlake Avenue.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In June, 1893, the Los Angeles Post Office was moved from its location at Broadway near Sixth Street to the National Government Building at the southeast comer of Main and Winston streets, which had just been completed at a cost of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Seized with the same desire that animated many thousands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>625</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>605</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Russell Judson Waters, a well-known banker and member of Congress from the Sixth District between 1899 and 1903, came from Redlands in 1894 and is another Southern Californian who has turned his attention to literary endeavor: his novel, <HI REND="italics">El Estranjero</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Joseph Scott, who has risen to distinction in the California legal world, alighted in Los Angeles in June, having tried without success to obtain newspaper work in Boston, in 1887, although equipped with a letter of introduction from John Boyle O'Reilly.  In New York, with only two dollars in his pocket, he was compelled to shoulder a hod; but relief came: as Scott himself jovially tells the story, he was carrying mortar and brick on a Tuesday in February, 1890, and but two days later he faced a body of students at St. Bonaventura's College in Allegany, New York, as instructor in rhetoric! Within ten months after Scott came to Southern California, he was admitted to practice at the Los Angeles Bar; and since then he has been President of the Chamber of Commerce.  He is now a member of the Board of Education, and all in all his services to the commonwealth have been many and important.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The existence of the Merchants' Association, which was organized in 1893 with W. C. Furrey as President and William Bien (succeeded the following year by Jacob <HI REND="italics">E</HI>
023.sgm:. Waldeck, son-in-law of Samuel Hellman) as Secretary, was somewhat precarious until 1894.  In that year, Los Angeles was suffering a period of depression, and a meeting was called to devise ways and means for alleviating the economic ills of the city and also for attracting to Los Angeles some of the visitors to the Midwinter Fair then being held in San Francisco.  At that meeting, Max Meyberg, a member of the Association's executive committee, suggested a carnival; and the plan being enthusiastically endorsed, the coming occasion was dubbed <HI REND="italics">La Fiesta de <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>626</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>606</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Fiesta</HI>
023.sgm: lasted from the 10th to the 13th of April and proved a delightful affair.  The participants marched in costume to the City Hall during a meeting of the Council, usurped the Government, elected a Queen--Mrs. O. W. Childs, Jr.--to preside over the destinies of the City during the <HI REND="italics">Fiesta</HI>
023.sgm: and communicated to everybody a spirit of uncontrollable enthusiasm based on a feeling of the most genuine patriotic sentiment.  The result was thoroughly successful, the carnival bringing out the real Californian fellowship--whole-souled and ringing true.  Indeed, it is conceded by all who have seen Los Angeles grow, that this first <HI REND="italics">Fiesta</HI>
023.sgm: and the resulting strengthening of the Association have been among the earliest and, in some respects, the most important elements contributory to the wonderful growth and development of our city.  A few evenings after the conclusion of the celebration, and while the streets were brilliantly illuminated with Bengal fire, the leaders again marched in a body, this time to the hall over Mott Market, where they not only laid plans for the second <HI REND="italics">Fiesta</HI>
023.sgm:<P>So enthusiastic had the citizens of Los Angeles really become that in the years 1895 and 1896 the <HI REND="italics">Fiesta</HI>
023.sgm: was repeated and many prominent people supported the original committee, assisting to make the second festival almost equal to the first. Among these patrons were John Alton, Hancock Banning, W. A. Barker, A. C. Bilicke, L. W. Blinn, W. C. Bluett, R. W. Burnham, John M. Crawley, James Cuzner, J. H. Dockweiler, T. A. Eisen, J. A. Foshay, John F. Francis, A. W. Francisco, H. W. Frank, Dan Freeman, Mrs. Jessie Benton Fr&eacute;mont, W. M. Garland, T. E. Gibbon, J. T. Griffith, Harley Hamilton, R. H. Howell, Sumner P. Hunt, A. Jacoby, General E. P. Johnson, John Kahn, F. W. King, Abbot Kinney, E. F. C. Klokke, J. Kuhrts, Dr. Carl Kurtz, J. B. Lankershim, General <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>627</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>607</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>This second <HI REND="italics">Fiesta</HI>
023.sgm: brought into the local field two men then unknown, but each destined to play an important part in the affairs of Los Angeles.  J. O. Koepfli, President of the Merchants' Association, and M. H. Newmark, Chairman of the Finance Committee, selected Felix J. Zeehandelaar (a reporter for the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Second in chronological order among the larger societies of women, and doubtless equal to any in the importance of its varied activities, the Ebell Club was organized in 1894, in due time providing itself with a serviceable and ornate home, within which for years broad courses of departmental study have been prosecuted with vigor.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>628</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>608</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>After worshiping for more than fifteen years in the old Synagogue on Fort Street, and five years more after that name was changed to Broadway (during which period, from 1881 until I started, in 1887, on my second European trip, it was my privilege to serve as President of the Congregation), the reformed Jews of Los Angeles built, in 1894, the Temple B'nai B'rith on the comer of Hope and Ninth streets.  In the meantime, following the resignation of Dr. A. W. Edelman, in 1886, Dr. Emanuel Schreiber for two years occupied the pulpit; and then Reverend A. Blum came from Galveston to succeed him. From the early part of 1895, Rabbi M. G. Solomon held the office until 1899.  It was during his administration, it may be interesting to observe, and while Herman W. Hellman was President, that the present Temple was consecrated.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1894, Homer Laughlin, of Ohio, during a visit purchased from Mrs. Mary A. Briggs the property on Broadway between Third and Fourth streets, where she had lived.  Three years later, he moved to Los Angeles and began the erection of the Homer Laughlin fire-proof building, adding to the same, in 1905, a reinforced concrete annex.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At midnight, on April 17th, Don Ant&oacute;nio Franco Coronel died at his home in Los Angeles, aged seventy-seven years.  In less than four months, his life-long friend, Don Pio Pico died here--on September 11th, aged ninety-three years.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Belgian hare aberration was a spasmodic craze of the nineties and when I remember what the little rabbit did to our judgment then, it brings to mind the black-tulip bubble of Holland though, in point of genuine foolishness, I should award the prize to the former.  A widely-copied newspaper article, claiming for the flesh of the timid Belgian rodent extraordinary qualities and merit, led first hundreds, then thousands, to rig up hare-coops for the breeding of the animal, expecting to supply the world with its much-lauded meat.  Before long, people abandoned profitable work in order to venture into the new field, and many were those who invested thousands of dollars in Belgian hare companies.  During the wild excitement attention was also given to the raising of hares for exhibition, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>629</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>609</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>A lively election in 1895 was that which decided the immediate future of a suburb of Los Angeles where, on April 27th of the same year, Don Juan Warner, who had lived there with his daughter, Mrs. R&uacute;bio, went to his rest.  This was University Place, in 1880 a mere hamlet, though three years later it had a post office of its own.  In 1895, an effort was made to annex the community, with Vernon, Rosedale and Pico Heights; but the measure was defeated, and only on June 12th, 1899 was the college district annexed to Los Angeles.  For some years, the boundary line of the town at that point followed such a course through house-lots that residents there, still at home, often ate in the county and slept within the city!</P>
023.sgm:<P>The early nineties were full of the spirit of accomplishment, and notwithstanding the failure of the Electric Homestead Tract Association and its street car line, already described, a successful electric railway system for Los Angeles was at length installed.  In 1892, a route was laid out to Westlake Park, the company having been encouraged by a subsidy of fifty thousand dollars pledged by owners of property most likely to be affected by the service; and by 1895 the electric traction system was so general that even the bob-tailed cars on Main Street gave way to the new order of things.  At this early stage in the application of electricity to street cars, some of the equipment was rather primitive.  Wooden poles, for example, were a part of the trolley; and as they were easily broken, conductors were fined a dollar for any accident to the rod with which they might have to do!  Electricity--when it was forthcoming at all--was only harnessed to impel the vehicle; but there were no devices for using the current to warm the car, and instead of an electric light, an <HI REND="italics">oil</HI>
023.sgm: lamp, hung onto the dashboard, faintly illuminated the soft roadbed of the irregular tracks.  The most active promoters of the improvements of 1895 were the two brothers, William Spencer and Thomas J. Hook, who operated mainly in the southwestern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>630</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>610</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>B. F. Coulter, who from 1881 to 1884 had preached here as a clergyman of the Christian Church, in 1895 built a place of worship at his own expense, on Broadway near Temple Street, costing twenty thousand dollars--no inconsiderable sum for that time.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime in March appeared the first issue of the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Record</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Thomas J. Scully, a pioneer school teacher who came to Los Angeles the same year that I did, died here in 1895.  For some time Scully was the only teacher in the county outside of the city, but owing to the condition of the public treasury he actually divided his time between three or four schools, giving lessons in each a part of the year.  After a while, the schoolmaster gazed longingly upon a lovely vineyard and its no less lovely owner; and at last, by marrying the proprietress, he appropriated both.  This sudden capture of wife and independence, however, was too much for our unsophisticated pedagogue: scully entered upon a campaign of intemperance and dissipation; his spouse soon expelled him from his comfortable surroundings, and he was again forced to earn his own living with birch and book.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Inoffensive in the extreme, yet with an aberration of mind more and more evident during twenty years, Frederick Merrill Shaw, a well-informed Vermonter born in 1827, shipped for California as cook on the brig <HI REND="italics">Sea Eagle</HI>
023.sgm: and arrived in San Francisco in September, 1849, where he helped to build, as he always claimed, the first three-story structure put up there.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>631</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>611</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On September 21st, my brother, J. P. Newmark, to whom I am so indebted, and who was the cause of my coming to California, died at his home, in the sixty-ninth year of his age; his demise being rather sudden.  During the extended period of his illness, he was tenderly nursed by his wife, Augusta; and I cannot pay my sister-in-law too high a tribute for her devoted companionship and aid, and her real self-sacrifice.  Mrs. Newmark long survived her husband, dying on January 3d, 1908 at the age of seventy-four.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The reader will permit me, I am certain, the privilege of a fraternal eulogy: in his acceptance and fulfillment of the responsibilities of this life, in the depth and sincerity of his feeling toward family and friend, my brother was the peer of any; in his patient, silent endurance of long years of intense physical suffering and in his cheerfulness, which a manly courage and philosophical spirit inspired him to diffuse, he was the superior of most; and it was the possession of these qualities which has preserved his personality, to those who knew him well, far beyond the span of natural existence.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In May, 1896, the Merchants' Association consolidated with the Manufacturers' Association (of which R. W. Pridham was then President), and after the change of name to the Merchants &amp; Manufacturers' Association, inaugurated the first local exhibit of home products, using the Main Street store of Meyberg Brothers for the display.  On August 1st, 1897, Felix J. Zeehandelaar, later also Consul of the Netherlands, became <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>632</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>612</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>This same year Major Ben. C. Truman, formerly editor of the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
023.sgm:, together with George D. Rice &amp; Sons established the <HI REND="italics">Graphic</HI>
023.sgm:, which is still being published under the popular editorship of Samuel T. Clover.  In 1900, Truman was one of the California Commissioners to the Paris Exposition. After his foreign sojourn, he returned to Los Angeles and, with Harry Patton, started a weekly society paper called the <HI REND="italics">Capitol</HI>
023.sgm:. Rather recently, by the advantageous sale of certain property early acquired, Ben and his good wife have come to enjoy a comfortable and well-merited degree of prosperity.  Clover came to Los Angeles in 1901; was editor and publisher of the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm: for four years; and in 1905 started the <HI REND="italics">Evening News</HI>
023.sgm:, continuing the same three years despite the panic of 1907. A year previously, he purchased the <HI REND="italics">Graphic</HI>
023.sgm:<P>W. A. Spalding, whose editorial work on Los Angeles newspapers--dating from his association with the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm: in 1874, and including service with both the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: --in 1896 assumed the business management of his first love, the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The magnificent interurban electric system of Los Angeles is indebted not a little to the brothers-in-law, General M. H. Sherman and E. P. Clark--the former a Yankee from Vermont, and the latter a Middle Westerner from Iowa--both of whom had settled in Arizona in the early seventies.  While in the Territory, Sherman taught school and, under appointment by Governor Fr&eacute;mont as Superintendent of Instruction, laid the foundation of the public school system there.  Both came to Los Angeles in 1889, soon after which Sherman organized the Consolidated Electric Railway Company.  In 1896, the old steam railroad--which about the late eighties had run for a year or so between Los Angeles and the North Beach, by way of Colegrove and South Hollywood--was equipped with electrical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>633</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>613</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1896, I dissolved partnership with Kaspare Cohn, taking over the hide business and, having fitted up a modest office under the St. Elmo Hotel, revived with a degree of satisfaction the name of H. Newmark &amp; Company.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A notable career in Los Angeles is that of Arthur Letts who in 1896 arrived here with barely five hundred dollars in his pocket and, as it would appear, in answer to a benign Provividence.  J. A. Williams &amp; Company, after a brief experience, had found the corner of Broadway and Fourth Street too far south, and their means too limited, to weather the storm; so that their badly-situated little department store was soon in the hands of creditors.  This was Letts' opportunity: obtaining some financial assistance, he purchased the bankrupt stock.  His instantaneous success was reflected in the improvement of the neighborhood, and thereafter both locality and business made rapid progress together.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meredith P. Snyder, who became a resident in 1880 and started business by clerking in a furniture store, in 1896 was elected to the office of mayor, on a municipal water-works platform.</P>
023.sgm:<P>During the presidential campaign of 1896, when the West went wild over "16 to 1," and it looked as if W. J. Bryan would sweep aside any opposition here, an organization known as the Sound Money League undertook to turn the tide. George H. Stewart was elected President, the other members of the Executive Committee being John F. Francis, Frank A. Gibson, R. W. Burnham and M. H. Newmark.  So strenuous was the campaign, and so effective was the support by the public, that when the sun set on that memorable Tuesday in November, Los Angeles was found to be still strong for sound principles. Perhaps the most remarkable outpouring in the political history of the city took place during this period when business <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>634</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>614</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>It was in the Christmas season of 1896 that Colonel Griffith J. Griffith so generously filled the stocking of Los Angeles with his immensely important gift of Griffith Park, said to be, with its three thousand and more diversified acres, magnificent heights and picturesque roadways--some of which, with their dense willow growth, remind me of the shaded lanes described in earlier chapters--the second largest pleasure ground in the world.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On July 1st, 1897, the Atlantic &amp; Pacific Railroad was absorbed by the Santa F&eacute;; Charles W. Smith, the receiver, having brought order out of chaos after the former road in 1895 had met with disaster.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. Henry S. Orme, H. W. O'Melveny, J. M. Griffith, J. W. Gillette, A. L. Bath, J. M. Guinn, M. Teed, J. M. Elliott and W. A. Spalding on August 2d met in the office of the <HI REND="italics">Daily Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. William F. Edgar, who had resided here continuously for over thirty years, died on August 23d, at the age of seventy-three; a sword given to him by General Phil Kearney resting among the floral tributes.  The tenth of the following November witnessed the death of George Hansen, the surveyor, whose body (in accordance with his expressed wish) was cremated.  On the same day, J. J. Ayers died.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>635</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>615</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>This year, when the town was full of unemployed, hundreds of men were set at work to improve Elysian Park, a move suggested by Judge Charles Silent.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Frank Walker, who had been here for a while in the middle of the eighties and had gone away again, returned to Los Angeles about 1897 and set himself up as a master builder. While contracting for certain unique bungalows, his attention was directed to the possibility of utilizing the power of the sun, with the result that he soon patented a solar heater, similar to those now extensively built into Southern California residences, and organized a company for exploiting the invention.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>636</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>616</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLI<LB>THE SOUTHWEST ARCH&AElig;OLOGICAL SOCIETY<LB>1898-1905</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>A CLOUD, considerably larger than a man's hand, flecked the skies at the dawn of 1898 and troubled many who had been following the course of events in Cuba. So, too, like the thrill sent through the nation at the firing on Fort Sumter, the startling intelligence of the destruction of the United States battleship <HI REND="italics">Maine</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On January 22d, John G. Nichols, several times Mayor of Los Angeles and always a welcome figure on the streets, died here at the age of eighty-five years.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colonel Harrison Gray Otis, soldier, Union officer, Government official in Alaska and President of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: publishing company, was appointed by President McKinley, on May 27th, a Brigadier-General of the United States Volunteers, following which he was assigned to a command in the Philippines, where he saw active service until honorably discharged in 1899, after the fall of Malolos, the insurgent capital. During General Otis's absence, his influential son-in-law, the large-hearted, big man of affairs, Harry Chandler, Vice-President of the corporation, was general manager of the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm:; while L. E. Mosher was managing editor.  In 1897, Harry E. Andrews joined the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: staff, in 1906 becoming managing <illus entity="a023-0143" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Isaias W. Hellman</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0144" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Herman W. Hellman</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0145" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Cameron E. Thom</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0146" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Ygn&aacute;cio Sep&uacute;lveda</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0147" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">First Santa F&eacute; Locomotive to Enter Los Angeles</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0148" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Main Street, Looking North, Showing First Federal Building, Middle Nineties</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>637</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>617</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:editor and infusing into the paper much of its characteristic vigor.  In 1899, Hugh McDowell, who had entered the employ of the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: four years before, began his long editorship of the <HI REND="italics">Times'</HI>
023.sgm: magazine, a wide-awake feature which has become more and more popular.  During many years, Mrs. Eliza A. Otis, the General's gifted wife, now deceased, also contributed to both the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Mirror</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Paul De Longpr&eacute;, the French artist who made his mark, when but eleven years old, in the Salon of 1876, was a distinguished member of a little group of Frenchmen arriving in the late nineties.  In 1901, he bought a home at Hollywood and there surrounded himself with three acres of choicest gardens--one of the sights of suburban Los Angeles  which became an inspiration to him in his work as a painter of flowers.  De Longpr&eacute; died in Hollywood, on June 29th, 1911.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On August 23d, my excellent friend, Dr. John Strother Griffin, for nearly fifty years one of the most efficient and honored residents of Los Angeles, died here.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A career such as should inspire American youth is that of Henry T. Gage (long in partnership with the well-known bibliophile, W. I. Foley,) a native of New York who in 1877, at the age of twenty-four, began the practice of law in Los Angeles, to be elected, twenty-one years later, Governor of California.  A handsome man, of splendid physique--acquired, perhaps, when he started as a sheep-dealer--he is also genial in temperament, and powerful and persuasive in oratory; qualifications which led to his selection, I, dare say, to second the nomination at Chicago, in 1888, of Levi P. Morton for the Vice Presidency.  Ex-Governor Gage's wife was Miss Fannie V., daughter of John Rains and granddaughter of Colonel Isaac Williams.</P>
023.sgm:<P>April 27,1899 was printed large and red upon the calendar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>638</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>618</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Movements of great importance making for a municipal water-system occurred in 1899, the thirty years' contract with the assigns of John S. Griffin, P. Beaudry, S. Lazard and others having expired on July 22d, 1898.  An arbitration committee, consisting of Charles <HI REND="italics">T</HI>
023.sgm:<P>During August, 1899, the Reverend Dr. Sigmund Hecht of Milwaukee took into his keeping the spiritual welfare of Los Angeles Reformed Jewry; and it is certainly a source of very great satisfaction to me that during his tenure of office his good fellowship has led him, on more than one occasion, to tender the altar of the Jewish temple for Christian worship. Scholarly in pursuits and eloquent of address, Dr. Hecht for sixteen years has well presided over the destinies of his flock, his congregation keeping pace with the growth of the city.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Incursions of other jobbing centers into Los Angeles territory induced our leading manufacturers and wholesalers to combine for offensive as well as defensive purposes; and on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>639</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>619</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On April 10th, 1908, after many years of hardship, financial trouble and disappointment, during which the Executive Committee and Secretary Willard had frequent conferences with J. C. Stubbs and William Sproule (then Stubbs's assistant) of the Southern Pacific, and W. A. Bissell, of the Atchison, Topeka &amp; Santa F&eacute; Railroad, it became evident that more equitable rates for shippers into the San Joaqu&iacute;n Valley and elsewhere could not peaceably be obtained.  A promised readjustment, lowering Los Angeles rates about twenty per cent., had been published; but at the request of the San Francisco merchants, the new tariff-sheet was repudiated by the transportation companies.  A rehearing was also denied by them.  The Associated Jobbers then carried the case before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>640</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>620</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1899, James M. Guinn, after some years of miscellaneous work in the field of local annals, issued his <HI REND="italics">History of Los Angeles County</HI>
023.sgm:, following the same in 1907 with a <HI REND="italics">History of California and the Southern Coast Counties</HI>
023.sgm:.  As I write, he has in preparation a still more compendious work to be entitled, <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles and Environs</HI>
023.sgm:<P>At half-past four o'clock on the morning of December 25th, a slight shock of earthquake was felt in Los Angeles; but it was not until some hours later that the telegraph reported the much greater damage wrought at San Jacinto, Riverside County. There, walls fell in heaps; and a peculiar freak was the complete revolution of a chimney without the disturbance of a single brick!  Six squaws, by the falling of their adobes at the Reservation some miles away, were instantly killed.  When day dawned and the badly-frightened people began to inspect the neighborhood, they found great mountain crevices, into some of which even large trees had fallen.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Toward the end of the nineties, Henry E. Huntington sold much or all of his large holdings in the San Francisco railways and began both to buy up Los Angeles railway stocks and to give his personal attention to the city's traffic-problems. At the same time, he bent his energies to the crowning work of his life--the development of the various interurban electric systems focusing in Los Angeles.  In 1902, the road to Long Beach was completed; and in the following year electric cars began to run to Monrovia and Whittier.  In 1903, the seven-story Huntington or Pacific Electric Building at the corner of Main and Sixth streets was finished.  The effect of these extensive improvements on local commerce and on the value of real estate (as well as their influence on the growth of population <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>641</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>621</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>During the winter of 1899-1900, business cares so weighed upon me that I decided temporarily to cast off all worry and indulge myself with another visit to the Old World.  This decision was reached rather suddenly and, as my friends insist, in a perfectly characteristic manner: one morning I hastened to the steamship office and bought the necessary tickets; and then I went home leisurely and suggested to my wife that she prepare for a trip to Europe!</P>
023.sgm:<P>About the first of January, therefore, we left Los Angeles, reached Naples on February 1st and traveled for nine months through Great Britain, France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Norway, Sweden and Denmark.  I returned to my birthplace, Loebau, which in my youth had appeared of such importance; but although somewhat larger than it used to be, it now nevertheless seemed small and insignificant.</P>
023.sgm:<P>While making this tour of Europe, I revisited Sweden and renewed my acquaintance with the families that had been so kind to me as a boy.  Time had lamentably thinned the ranks of the older generation, but many of the younger, especially those of my own age, were still there.   Those only who have had a similar experience will appreciate my pleasure in once again greeting these steadfast friends.  I also reviewed numerous scenes formerly so familiar.  It is impossible to describe my emotions on thus again seeing this beautiful country, or to convey to the reader the depth of my respect and affection for her intelligent, thrifty and whole-souled people, especially when I remembered their liberal encouragement of my father about forty years before.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thanks to the indefatigable labors of Mrs. A. S. C. Forbes of Los Angeles, the beautiful ceremony of strewing flowers upon the restless ocean waters in honor of the naval dead was first observed at Santa Monica on Memorial Day in I and bids fair to become an appropriate national custom.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>642</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>622</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Se&ntilde;ora Antonio F. Coronel entrusted to the Chamber of Commerce, on June 6th, the invaluable historical souvenirs known as the Coronel Collection; and now<ANCHOR ID="n41-43">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n41-43">Installed, of late, in the County Museum.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>A good anecdote as to the transfer of this collection is related on the authority of Miss Anna B. Picher, President of the Boundary League and the lady who made the first move to secure the interesting League mementos now preserved and displayed at the County Museum.  When the matter of making the Coronel heirlooms more accessible to the public was brought to Se&ntilde;or;a Coronel's attention, she not only showed a lively interest, but at once agreed to make the donation.  She imposed, however, the condition that Miss Picher should bring to her M. J. Newmark and John F. Francis, then directors, in whose integrity and acumen she had great confidence. This was done; and these gentlemen having pledged their personal attention and sponsorship, the Se&ntilde;ora committed the historic objects to the Chamber of Commerce for the benefit, forever, of all the people.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The Harvard School was opened, on September 25th by Grenville C. Emery and was the first notable military academy for youth in Los Angeles. After many terms of successful work under Congregational auspices, the School has passed to the control of the Rt. Reverend J. H. Johnson, as trustee for the Episcopal Church, which has acquired other valuable school properties in the Southland; Professor Emery remitting fifty thousand dollars of the purchase price in consideration of a promise to perpetuate his name.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A tunnel was put through Bunker Hill--by the way, one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>643</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>623</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm:, which enjoys the honor of being the oldest daily newspaper still published in Los Angeles, and which, for fifteen years, has been so well managed by H. W. Brundige, was sold in January to Edwin T. Earl, who moved the plant to a building erected for it on Fifth Street between Broadway and Hill.  Earl came to Los Angeles in 1885, having previously for years packed and shipped fruit on a large scale.  In 1890, as a result of the obstacles handicapping the sending of fresh fruit to the East, Earl invented a new refrigerator car with ventilating devices; and unable to get the railroads to take over its construction, he organized a company for the building of the conveyors.  On selling out to the Armours, Earl made large investments in Los Angeles real estate.  A few years ago, the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm: was moved to Hill Street near Seventh.  Possibly owing to the renewed interest in local historical study, the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm:<P>William F. Grosser, who died on April 15th, was long active in Los Angeles Turnverein circles, having popularized science before institutions and lecture-courses existed here for that purpose.  A native of Potsdam, Prussia, Grosser came to Southern California <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm: Panam&aacute;, and on settling in Los Angeles, laid out the Grosser Tract.  Having been an advanced student of astronomical science and microscopy, and possessing a good-sized portable telescope, he was soon in demand by societies and schools, for which he lectured without financial remuneration.  One of Grosser's sisters, Mrs. A. Jelinek--whose husband, a Boston cabinet-maker, had an interesting part in the carving of the chair made from "the spreading <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>644</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>624</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On April 24th, Samuel Calvert Foy died, aged seventy-one, survived by his wife and six children.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A little town in Ventura County, bearing the name of the famous student and author, recalls the death near here in July of Charles Nordhoff, whose pioneer book, <HI REND="italics">California: For Health, Pleasure and Residence</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Charles Brode, who died in August, first saw Los Angeles in 1868, when he came here to nurse Edward J., my wife's brother, in his last illness.  He then opened a grocery store at South Spring Street near Second, and was active in Turnverein and Odd Fellow circles.  The mention of Brode recalls the name of one who has attained distinction here: even as a messenger boy at the California Club in the eighties, Oscar Lawler gave promise of an important future.  He had come from Iowa as a child, and his personality, ability and ambition soon brought him prominently before the Bar and the people.  He served as United States Attorney for this district from 1906 until 1909, when he became Assistant to the Attorney-General of the United States.  He is high in Masonic circles, being Past Grand Master of the Masonic Grand Lodge of California.  In 1901, he married Miss Hilda, daughter of Charles Brode.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Catalina Island, in the summer of 1902, established wireless connection with the mainland, at White's Point; and on August 2d, the first messages were exchanged.  On March 25th of the following year began the publication of the Catalina newspaper known as the <HI REND="italics">Wireless</HI>
023.sgm:<P>After graduating from the University of California in 1902, my son Marco attended for a while the University of Berlin; after which he returned to Los Angeles and entered the house of M. A. Newmark &amp; Company.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The women of California, in the late eighties, wishing to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>645</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>625</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>On the site of one of my early homes, the corner-stone of the new Chamber of Commerce was laid on March 28th with impressive Masonic ceremonies.  The principal address was made by Jonathan S. Slauson.  Ferdinand K. Rule was then President of the Chamber; and the Building Committee consisted of M. J. Newmark, Chairman; A. B. Cass, Homer Laughlin, F. K. Rule, H. S. McKee and James A. Foshay--the latter for sixteen years, beginning with the middle nineties, having demonstrated his efficiency as Superintendent of City Schools.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Early in 1903, G. A. Dobinson, a Shakespearian student and teacher of elocution, induced me to build a hall on Hope Street near Eleventh, connected with a small theater; and there, in the spring of 1904, he opened the well-known Dobinson School, which he conducted until 1906.  Then the Gamut Club, an organization of 1904-whose first President was Professor Adolph Willhartitz,<ANCHOR ID="n41-44">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n41-44">Died on January 12th, 1915, aged seventy-eight years.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>The pioneer experiments with the navel orange have already been referred to; a late episode associates the luscious fruit with a President of the United States.  On May 6th, amid great festivity participated in by all Riverside, Theodore Roosevelt replanted, in front of Frank Miller's Mission Inn, one of the original, historic trees.</P>
023.sgm:<P>William K. Cowan came to Los Angeles as a jeweler in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>646</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>626</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Some months later, if I recollect aright, witnessed the advent on our streets of a number of horseless carriages, and I was seized with a desire to possess not One, but two.  My acquisitions were both electric, and soon I was extending, right and left, invitations to my friends to ride with me.  On the first of these excursions, however, one of the machines balked and the second also broke down; and to make a long story short, no mechanic in town being sufficiently expert to straighten out the difficulty, I soon disposed of them in disgust for about seven hundred dollars.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In 1903, a notable change was made, and one decidedly for the better interests of the public schools, when one hundred citizens, pursuant to a change in the City's charter, selected a non-partizan Board of Education consisting of John D. Bicknell, Joseph Scott, J. M. Guinn, Jonathan S. Slauson, Charles Cassatt Davis, Emmet H. Wilson and W. J. Washburn.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On October 23d the Southwest Society was founded here by Charles F. Lummis with Jonathan S. Slauson as its first President; Charles F. Lummis, Secretary and W. C. Patterson, Treasurer.  Associated with these officers were J. O. Koepfli, M. A. Hamburger, General H. G. Otis, Henry W. O'Melveny, Major E. W. Jones, J. A. Foshay, the Right Reverend Thomas J, Conaty, J. D. Bicknell and others.  In the beginning, it was a branch of the Arch&aelig;ological Institute of America; but so rapid was the Society's growth that, in three years, it had fifty per cent. more members than belonged to the thirty-year-old parent organization in Boston, with which it remained affiliated until 1913 when it withdrew in order that all its funds might go toward the maintenance of the Southwest Museum, a corporation founded in 1907 as the result of the Southwest Society's labors.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The first plant of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
023.sgm:, a newspaper owned by William Randolph Hearst, was installed in 1903 by Dent H. Robert, then and now publisher of the San Francisco <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>647</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>627</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
023.sgm:.  The paper, illustrated from the start, made its first appearance on December 12th and sprang into immediate favor.  R. A. Farrelly was the first managing editor.  The office of the paper was on the west side of Broadway near Fifth Street, where it remained for ten years, during which it rendered valuable service to the community, notably in conducting a successful campaign for the sale of seven hundred and twenty thousand dollars' worth of school bonds which had hitherto proven unmarketable.  In the meantime, Robert had been succeeded, first by a Mr. Strauss, and then by Henry Lowenthal and William P. Leech, while Farrelly was followed by Foster Coates, Arthur Clark and W. P. Anderson.  In 1908, the enterprising Maximilian F. Ihmsen assumed the responsibilities of publisher, and at the same time Frederick W. Eldridge became the efficient managing editor.  Under the able direction of these experienced men, this morning daily has attained its highest prosperity, marked by removal in the fall of 1913 to the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Abbot Kinney, foreseeing a future for the tide-flats and lagoons south of Ocean Park, in 1904 purchased enough acreage whereon to build the now well-known Venice, which, as its name implies, was to be adorned with canals, bridges and arcades.  Through Kinney's remarkable spirit of enterprise, a wonderful transformation was effected in a single year.  Such in fact was the optimism of this founder of towns that, in order to amply supply the necessary funds, he closed out important city holdings including the Flat Iron Square, lying between Eighth and Ninth, and Main and Spring streets, the Abbotsford Inn property and the large southeast corner of Spring and Sixth streets, at present occupied by the Grosse Building.  Kinney's foresight, courage and persistence have been rewarded, the dreams of his prime becoming the realities of his more advanced age.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The task of building here a King's Highway--El Camino Real--intended to connect all the missions and <HI REND="italics">presidios</HI>
023.sgm: between San Diego and Sonoma was undertaken in the troublous days of Don Gaspar de Portol&aacute; and Father Jun&iacute;pero Serra <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>648</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>628</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>An interesting attempt to transplant a small Eastern town to California was made in 1904 when Alfred Dolge, the founder of Dolgeville, New York (and the author of the elaborate work, <HI REND="italics">Pianos and their Makers</HI>
023.sgm:<P>A syndicate, styled the whose President was Frank Los Angeles Herald Company, G. Finlayson, in 1904 bought the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Future generations will doubtless be as keen to learn something about the preserving of albacore, commonly spoken of as tuna, as I should like to know how and by whom sardines were first successfully put into cans.  The father of this industry is Albert P. Halfhill, a Minnesotan drawn here, in 1892,through the opportunities for packing mackerel on this southern coast.  In 1894, we find him organizing the California Fish Company, soon to be known as the Southern California Fish Company.  In 1904, Halfhill, while experimenting with various <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>649</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>629</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>The Turnverein-Germania took a notable step forward this year by buying a lot, one hundred by three hundred feet, on South Figueroa, between Pico and Fifteenth streets; and on September 3d, 1905, the new club building and gymnasium were formally opened.</P>
023.sgm:<P>William H. Workman in 1904 was elected Treasurer of the City of Los Angeles for the third time, his first term of office having begun in 1901.  This compliment was the more emphatic because Workman was a Democrat and received four thousand five hundred votes more than his opponent-and that, too, only a month after Roosevelt had carried Los Angeles by a majority of thirteen thousand.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In a previous chapter, I have described the vender of <HI REND="italics">tamales</HI>
023.sgm: and ice-cream, so familiar through his peculiar voice as well as his characteristic costume.  About 1905, another celebrity plying a trade in the same line, and known as Francisco, appeared here and daily made his rounds through the more fashionable Westlake district.  He had a tenor voice of rare quality and power, and used it, while exquisitely rendering choice <HI REND="italics">arias</HI>
023.sgm:, to advertise his wares.  Such was his merit that lovers of music, as soon as his presence was known, paused to listen; with the natural result that business with Francisco was never dull.  Whenever a grand opera company came to town, the Italian was there, in a front seat of the gallery; and so great was his enthusiastic interest in the performance of those whose voices were often inferior to his own, that he could be seen, with gaze fixed on the proscenium, passionately beating time as if to direct the orchestra.  Seven or eight years ago, the long-favorite Francisco was foully murdered, and under strange circumstances; leading many to believe that, having perhaps degraded himself from his former estate and fleeing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>650</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>630</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:an alien, to an unknown land, he had fallen at last the victim of a <HI REND="italics">vendetta</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In 1905, I took part in a movement, headed by Joseph Mesmer, to raise by subscription the funds necessary to buy the old Downey Block--fronting on Temple and North Main streets, and extending through to New High--for the purpose of presenting it to the National Government for a Federal Building site.  Unusual success attended our efforts, and the transfer to Uncle Sam was duly made.  In the meantime, an appropriation of eight hundred thousand dollars had been secured for the building, and it was with no little surprise and disappointment when the bids for construction were opened, in May, 1906, that the lowest million dollars,  This delayed was found to be nearly a matters until the following fall,  In October, the site at the corner of Main and Winston streets was sold for three hundred and fourteen thousand dollars; and the deficiency having thus been supplied, it was not     long before the new building was in course of construction.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Desiring to celebrate the fifty years which had elapsed since, perched upon an ox-cart, he rode into Los Angeles for the first time, William H. Workman on January 21st gave a banquet to five hundred pioneers in Turnverein Hall, the menu being peculiarly <HI REND="italics">mejicano</HI>
023.sgm:.  The reminiscences, speeches and quips were of the friendliest and best; and the whole affair was one that recalled to both host and guests the <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
023.sgm:<P>On February 21st, the San Pedro, Los Angeles &amp; Salt Lake Railroad was completed--the fourth transcontinental line, with its connections, to enter Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the spring, A. C. and A. M. Parson bought a tract of land on Alamitos Bay and there, at the mouth of the San Gabriel River, founded Naples, with features somewhat similar to those at Venice; but unlike the latter town, the new Naples has never developed into a crowded resort.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Arriving in California in 1869, at the age of seven, Frank Putnam Flint, a native of Massachusetts concerning whom much of importance might be related, was elected in 1905 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>651</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>631</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>An optimist of optimists, still young though having passed more than one milestone on the road to success, Willis H. Booth came to Los Angeles a mere lad and is a product of the Los Angeles High School and the State University.  Before, while and since filling the office of President of the Chamber of Commerce, Booth has been identified with nearly everything worth while here and gives promise of an important and interesting future. He is now one of the Vice-Presidents of the Security Trust and Savings Bank.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In August, Juan B. Bandini, second son of the famous Don Juan, died at Santa Monica.  Two of Bandini's daughters were noted Los Angeles belles-Arcadia, who became the wife of John T. Gaffey, of San Pedro; and Dolores, who married into the well-known literary family, the Wards, of London.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Strenuous efforts were made in 1905 to house the Historical Society of Southern California, which, incorporated on February 12th, 1891, boasts of being the oldest organization of its kind on the Coast and the only one doing State work; and the Legislature appropriated one hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars for a building.  Governor Pardee, however, vetoed the bill--an act which later contributed to the endowment, by the State, of the comely County Museum in which the Historical Society now has its home.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1905, the then eight-year-old town of Redondo, with her large hotel and busy wharf, and famed for her fields of carnations, became the scene of one of those infrequent, but typically American, real estate frenzies which come suddenly, last a few days and as suddenly depart.  This particular attack, not to say epidemic, was brought on by one or two newspaper headlines announcing to the breakfasting reader that Henry E. Huntington had decided to spend millions of dollars in making immense railroad and other improvements in the seaside town, and that this would at once raise Redondo from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>652</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>632</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>And they bought.  They bought corners and they bought in the middle of the blocks; they bought heaps of sand and holes in the ground; they bought in one breath and sold in the next; they bought blindly and sold blindly.  Redondo had become a huge, unregulated stock exchange, lots instead of stocks for five days becoming the will-o'-the-wisps of the fated bidders, until the boom collapsed leaving hundreds with lots they had never seen and which, for the time being, they could not sell at any price.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Huntington did not spend his millions--at least then and there.  Redondo did not suddenly become a big center,  Yet, in passing through the experience of many a town, Redondo has gradually grown in population and importance, even developing something of a suburb--Clifton-by-the-Sea.  Such was the famous boom of 1905; and such will probably be the story of similar California booms to come.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>653</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>633</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLII<LB>THE SAN FRANCISCO EARTHQUAKE<LB>1906-1910</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>ON January 1st, I 906, after more than half a century of commercial activity--with some things well done, and me poorly enough--during which it has never been my ambition to better myself at the expense of others, I retired from business to enjoy the moderate but sufficient affluence which years of varying fortune had bestowed upon me.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rather early in the morning of April 18th, news was received here of the awful calamity that had befallen San Francisco; and with lightning rapidity the report spread throughout the city. Newspaper and telegraph offices were besieged for particulars as to the earthquake, which, strange to say, while it also affected even San Diego, was scarcely felt here; and within a couple of hours, more than a thousand telegrams were filed at one office alone, although not a single message was despatched. Thousands of agitated tourists and even residents hastened to the railroad stations, fearing further seismic disturbance and danger, and bent on leaving the Coast; and soon the stations and trains were so congested that little or nothing could be done with the panic-stricken crowds.  Meanwhile, more and more details of the widespread disaster poured in; and Los Angeles began to comprehend how paralyzing to her sister cities must have been the wreck and ruin following, first, the shaking of the earth, and then the much more serious fires and explosions.  Soon, too, refugees from the North commenced flocking into our city; and these thousands, none with complete and few with decent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>654</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>634</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:attire, each pleading pathetically for assistance, told the sad tale much more frankly than could the noisy newsboy, with his flaring headlines and shrill, intermittent <HI REND="italics">Extra!</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Long before much information was secured as to just what had happened, public-spirited men and women, some under the banners of regular organizations, some acting independently, moved energetically to afford relief.  The newspapers led off with large subscriptions, while the Chamber of Commerce, Board of Trade and the Merchants &amp; Manufacturers' Association swelled the amount. Eventually some two hundred and fifty thousand dollars was raised.  At the same time, and within two or three hours after the terrifying news had first been received, the Directors of the Chamber of Commerce met and appointed various committees headed by Francis Quarles Story. a patriotic and indomitable citizen who arrived in 1883; and having the valuable co&ouml;peration of Frank Wiggins, who served as Secretary, they went actively to work to render the most practical assistance possible.  A Supply Committee, of which M. H. Newmark was chairman, by five o'clock the same afternoon had assembled fourteen carloads of goods, partly donated and partly sold to the Committee at cost, to go by rail, and nine carloads to go from San Pedro by water.  This train full of necessaries was the first relief of its kind that reached San Francisco; other shipments of supplies followed daily; and with the first relief train went a corps of surgeons, under the chairmanship of Dr. L. M. Powers, Health Officer, who established a hospital in the Jefferson Square Building, treating two thousand patients in less than three weeks,  Among the chairmen of the several committees were: J. O. Koepfli, J. Baruch, R. W. Burnham, Niles Pease, Perry Weidner, John E. Coffin, J. J. Fogarty, W. L. Vail, D. C. McGarvin, W. A. Hammel, F. Edward Gray, Mrs. R. M. Widney and D. J. Desmond; while H. B. Gurley, long identified with Frank Wiggins in Chamber of Commerce work, was Assistant Secretary.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In this way was our sister-city laid low; but only, as it were, for a moment.  While the flames were yet consuming the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>655</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>635</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>One incident of this period of excitement and strain is perhaps worthy of record as evidence of the good fellowship existing between Los Angeles and the prostrate city.  On May 2d the Executive Committee<ANCHOR ID="n42-45">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: of the Associated Jobbers passed resolutions discouraging any effort to take advantage of San Francisco's plight, and pledging to help restore her splendid commercial prestige; whereupon Samuel T. Clover made this editorial comment in the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Evening News:</HI>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n42-45">President, M. H. Newmark; First Vice-President, J. O. Koepfli; Second Vice-President, C. C. Reynolds; Third Vice-President, F. W. Braun; Treasurer, L. C. Seheller; Secretary, Charles Dwight Willard; Directors: H. R. Boynton, J. Baruch, P. A. Benjamin, A. Douglass, I. A. Lothian and D. Wiebers.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>We commend the reading of these expressions of kindly good will to every pessimist in the country, as an evidence that all commercial honor is not wiped out in this grossly materialistic age.  The resolutions, as passed, are an honor to the Jobbers' Association in particular, and a credit to Los Angeles in general.  The <HI REND="italics">Evening News</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Among the many who at this time turned their faces toward Los Angeles is Hector Alliot, the versatile Curator of the South west Museum.  Born in France and graduating from the University of Lombardy, Dr. Alliot participated in various important explorations, later settling in San Francisco.  Losing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>656</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>636</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:in the earthquake and fire everything that he possessed, Alliot came south and took up the quill, first with the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
023.sgm: and then the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n42-46">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n42-46">One of Dr. Alliot's most recent accomplishments is a comprehensive <HI REND="italics">Bibliography of Arizona</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Mr. and Mrs, M. Kremer, on April 9th, celebrated their golden wedding; less than a year later, both were dead.  Mrs. Kremer passed away on March 5th, 1907, and her husband followed her two days later-an unusual dispensation.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In July, I was seized with an illness which, without doubt, must have precluded the possibility of writing these memoirs had it not been for the unselfish attendance, amounting to real self-sacrifice, of Lionel J. Adams.  From that time until now, in fair weather or foul, in good health or ill, Adams uncomplainingly and, indeed cheerfully, has bestowed upon me the tender care that contributed to the prolongation of my life; and it affords me peculiar pleasure to record, not only the debt of gratitude that I owe him and the sincere friendship so long marking our relations, but also his superior character as a man.</P>
023.sgm:<P>J. M. Griffith, for years a leading transportation agent and lumber merchant, died here on October 16th.  Griffith Avenue is named after him. Just two weeks later, William H. Perry passed away--a man of both influence and affluence, but once so poor and tattered that when he arrived, in February, 1854, he was unable to seek work until he had first obtained, on credit, some decent clothes.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sometime about 1907, Major Ben C. Truman, both a <HI REND="italics">connoisseur</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In an exceedingly informal manner, at the Westlake Avenue residence of my daughter, Mrs. L. Loeb, my wife and I on the 24th of March, 1908 celebrated our golden wedding anniversary, <illus entity="a023-0149" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Haris and Sarah Newmark, at Time of Golden Wedding</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0150" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Summer Home of Harris newmark, Santa Monica</HI>
023.sgm:the occasion being the more unusual because both the nuptials and the silver wedding festivity had occurred in Los Angeles.<ANCHOR ID="n42-47">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n42-47">On July 5th, 1915, Mr. and Mrs. S. Lazard celebrated their golden wedding, Mrs. Lazard being the third daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark to enjoy the privilege--almost unique in a single family, and that will become the more remarkable if Mrs. Eugene Meyer (the fourth daughter) and her husband live to commemorate, on the 20th of November, 1917, the fiftieth anniversary of their marriage.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Many years after spur-track switching charges had been abolished throughout other industrial districts of the United States, the Western railroads continued to assess this charge in Los Angeles, to the extent that, as was estimated, our merchants were paying through this tribute alone an amount not less than $250,000 a year.  In August, 1908, however, or shortly after F. P. Gregson became identified with the Associated Jobbers, suit was filed by M. H. Newmark, as President, before the Interstate Commerce Commission; and on May 7th, 1910, a decision was rendered in favor of local shippers.  But unfortunately this decision was reversed on July 20th, 1911, by the</P>
023.sgm:<P>Commerce Court.<ANCHOR ID="n42-48">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n42-48">The Supreme Court of the United States, on June 8th, 1914, affirmed the decision of the Interstate Commerce Court, and thus was obliterated this very iniquitous charge.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Not the least interesting step forward in providing Los Angeles with a harbor was the acquisition of a strip of land known as the Shoe String connecting Los Angeles with San Pedro and Wilmington.  This practical idea made possible in 1909 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>657</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>638</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In April, 1906, the one hundred thousand books of the Los Angeles Public Library, then under the administration of Charles F. Lummis, were moved from the City Hall to the Laughlin Building.  With the opening of September, 1908, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>658</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>639</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>to the Hamburger Building.<ANCHOR ID="n42-49">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n42-49">On June 1st, 1914, the Library--directed by Everett R. Perry, who came to Los Angeles in the fall of 1911, from the stall of the New York Public Library--was removed to the Metropolitan Building at the northwest corner of Broadway and Fifth Street, its shelves, a month later, holding 227,894 volumes.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>On the evening of October 11th, 1909, I attended a banquet tendered to President Taft by the City of Los Angeles; at the Shrine Auditorium.  Every honor was shown the distinguished guest, and his stay of two or three days was devoted to much sight-seeing, to say nothing of the patriotic efforts of many politicians whose laudable desire was to whisper in the Presidential ear <HI REND="italics">&agrave; propos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The election of George Alexander as Mayor on November 10th, 1909 was largely responsible for the later success of the Progressive party-with whose Socialistic policies I am not in sympathy.  W. C. Mushet, the more acceptable candidate, ran on a ticket endorsed by business-men organized under the chairmanship of M. H. Newmark, while George A. Smith was the Republican candidate.  Alexander's campaign was managed by Meyer Lissner, an arrival of 1896 who had a brief experience as a jeweler before he turned his attention to law.  He possessed much political sagacity, and was therefore quick to turn the Alexander success to the advantage of Hiram Johnson who was soon elected Governor.  George N. Black, who came here a child in 1886, and graduated from the Los Angeles High School, later being President of the California State Realty Confederation and Grand President of the Independent Order B'nai B'rith of this district, directed Smith's campaign.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On January 29th, 1910, the citizens of Los Angeles, under the leadership of Max Meyberg, tendered to D. A. Hamburger (Chairman), Perry W. Weidner, Fred L. Baker, William M. Garland, M. C. Neuner, Dick Ferris and F. J. Zeehandelaar, the committee in charge of the first Aviation Meet here, a banquet at the Alexandria Hotel.  The contests had occurred a few days before at Dominguez Field, on a part of the once famous <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:; and to see the a&euml;rial antics of the huge man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>659</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>640</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Litigation having established a clear title to the property once held by the Sixth District Agricultural Association, and the State, the declared owner, having agreed to lease the ground to the County and the City for fifty years, decisive steps were taken in January, 1910, by the Historical Society of Southern California to provide the Museum building now such a source of civic pride.  Other bodies, including the Fine Arts League, the Southern California Academy of Science and a branch of the Cooper Ornithological Society, were invited to cooperate, each being promised a place in the park and museum plans; and by the middle of February, the supervisors had agreed to vote the necessary building funds.  On July 11th, 1910, in the presence of a large and representative gathering at Exposition Park, ground was broken for the building, although the cornerstone was not laid until the 10th of December.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In the dark hours of the night of April 25th, 1910, after an illness of four days and almost entirely free from suffering, she who had shared with me the joys and sorrows of over half a century was called to her reward.  She passed from this life  as she had passed through it--gently and uncomplainingly. I was left in the midst of a gloom that I thought would be forever black; for six out of our eleven children had preceded their mother, whose spirit on that night was reunited with theirs. I was soon to find, however, how true it is that "The Lord tempers the wind to the shorn lamb."  Common misfortune and common memories made but stronger the tie, always strong,  between my children and myself.  Time has performed his kindly offices: he has changed the anguish of grief to the solace of recollection; and in assisting me to realize that I was permitted so long and so happy a companionship, he has turned my heart from its first bitterness to lasting gratitude.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>660</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>641</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIII<LB> RETROSPECTION<LB>1910--1913</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>AT one o'clock in the morning of October 1st, 1910, occurred the most heinous crime in the history of Los Angeles. This was the dynamiting, by the evil element of union labor, of the building and plant of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm:, resulting in the sudden extinction of no less than twenty human lives and the destruction of the property of the corporation.  The tragedy, lamented in obsequies of the most impressive kind ever witnessed in this city, was followed by the construction, on the same site and at the earliest moment, of the present home of the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm:.  The trial of some of those deemed responsible for this disaster brought to the fore John D. Fredericks, District Attorney<ANCHOR ID="n43-50">in 1900, 1902, 1906 and 1910.</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n43-50">In 1914, Fredericks was the Republican candidate for the Governorship of California.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Not the least of the many and far-reaching losses entailed through the ruin of this printery was a <HI REND="italics">History of the Medical Profession of Southern California</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In strong contrast to this annihilation of man by his brother, were the peaceful exercises marking the afternoon of the previous Sunday, June 19th, when the Kaspare Cohn Hospital, on Stephenson Avenue, was dedicated; a worthy charity made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>661</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>642</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>As Superintendent Of City Schools here for four years beginning in 1906, C. E. Moore laid the foundation for that national reputation which, in July, 1910, led to his being called as a professor to Yale University.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacob A. Riis, the famous Danish-American sociologist, who was so instrumental in cleaning up New York's tenement districts, visited Los Angeles for the fourth time, on March 10th, 1911, lecturing at the Temple Auditorium on "The Battle with the Slum.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The City Council having created a Harbor Board, Mayor George Alexander, in October, 1909, appointed Stoddard Jess, Thomas E. Gibbon and M. H. Newmark as Commissioners. In March, 1911, at a popular election, the Board was made a charter body., and Mayor Alexander reappointed the gentlemen named.  Owing, however, to the numerous difficulties thrown in the way of the Commissioners in the accomplishment of their work, M. H. Newmark resigned in December, 1911 and Stoddard Jess in January, 1912; while Thomas E. Gibbon, for many years one of the most formidable advocates of a free harbor, met with such continued obstacles that he was compelled, in the summer of 1912, to withdraw.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Having left Los Angeles, as I have said, in 1879, Myer J, Newmark made San Francisco his home until December, 1894, at which time he returned here and became associated with Kaspare Cohn.  In December, 1905, he once more took up his abode in San Francisco where, on May 10th, 1911, he died at the age of seventy-two years.</P>
023.sgm:<P>The first issue of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
023.sgm:, a wide-awake sheet projected by Edwin T. Earl, owner of the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm:, appeared on July 4th, flying the banner of the Progressive party; but making its strongest appeal for support as the first one-cent morning newspaper on the Coast, and a readable journal advocating the moral uplift of the community.  Like all the other newspapers of this period, the <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>662</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>643</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>In 1911, William R. Hearst, of national newspaper fame, bought the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Daily Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<P>The Federal Telegraph Company, which had established itself in Los Angeles in the fall of 1910, inaugurated in July, 1911 a wireless service with San Francisco and other Coast cities; and just a year later it effected communication with Honolulu, although oddly enough at first, owing to atmospheric conditions, it was necessary to flash all messages across the waste of waters during the night.  For some years, the giant steel masts erected by the Company in the southwestern part of the city have puzzled the passer-by.</P>
023.sgm:<P>At half-past three o'clock on November 28th, I turned the first spadeful of earth in the breaking of ground for the Jewish Orphans' Home of Southern California.  This privilege was accorded me because, in response to the oft-expressed wish of my wife to assist those dependent children bereft of their natural protectors, I had helped, in a measure, shortly after her demise, to assure the success of the proposed asylum.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sixteen years after Colonel Griffith J. Griffith agreeably surprised Los Angeles in the presentation of Griffith Park, his munificent bounty again manifested itself in another Christmas donation, that of one hundred thousand dollars for the construction of an observatory on Mount Hollywood, the highest point in Griffith Park. Incidental to the making of this gift, due official recognition of the Colonel's large-heartedness was displayed at a public meeting in the City Hall, in which I had the honor of participating.</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>663</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>644</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>M. A. Newmark &amp; Company in February, 1912 removed to their present quarters on Wholesale Street--a building (it may some day be interesting to note) five stories high with a floor space of one hundred and thirty thousand square feet.</P>
023.sgm:<P>In common with the rest of the civilized world, Los Angeles, on April 15th, was electrified with the news of the collision between an iceberg and the great ocean steamer <HI REND="italics">Titanic</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Nor can I refrain, while mentioning this awful catastrophe, from alluding to another example of courage and conjugal devotion<ANCHOR ID="n43-51">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: than which, perhaps, neither song nor story portrays one more sublime.  As the huge liner was sinking into the dark abyss, one frail woman declined to become the beneficiary of that desperate command, " <HI REND="italics">Women and children first!</HI>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n43-51">Even while this manuscript is being revised, the name of another Angele&ntilde;o--that of the lamented A. C. Bilicke, a self-made man of large accomplishments. who perished on May 7th, 1915, in the awful destruction of the <HI REND="italics">Lusitania</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Through a high school friendship of my son Marco I came to know quite well one who, though physically handicapped. acquired much international fame.  I refer to Homer Lea, a native of Denver, who came to Los Angeles in 1890, at the age <illus entity="a023-0151" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Harris Newmark, at the Dedication of M. A. Newmark &amp; Co.'s Establishment, 1912</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0152" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">J. P. Newmark, about 1890</HI>
023.sgm:<illus entity="a023-0153" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Harris Newmark Breaking Ground for the Jewish Orphans' Home, November 28th, 1911</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>664</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>645</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:of fourteen, studied at the High School, Occidental College and at Stanford, and then conceived the monumental idea of freeing the Chinese from the despotism of the old Manchurian dynasty.  Making his first trip to China in 1900, he took an active part in a revolutionary campaign; and returning to America a Lieutenant-General and a force in the Chinese Republican party, he devoted himself to drilling Chinese troops, and to literary work, some of his writings, notably <HI REND="italics">The Valor of Ignorance</HI>
023.sgm:<P>In December, the Museum of History, Science and Art, so favorably situated in Exposition Park, was informally opened<ANCHOR ID="n43-52">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: to the public under the scholarly administration of Dr. Frank S. Daggett, who had been appointed Director the year previous; and during the few months following, Professor Daggett, backed by the Board of Supervisors, carried forward with such enterprise the excavations of the pits at La Brea <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm: that, before the ornate building was ready to receive the finds, a unique collection of fossils invaluable for the study of California fauna had been assembled.  The discovery of these evidences of primeval animal life, already concentrating the attention of the scientific world, may well be regarded with pride by every Southern Californian; while the proper housing here of precious souvenirs recalling those whose lives have contributed so much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>665</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>646</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n43-52">The formal dedication took place on November 5th, 1913.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Pluckily resisting the inroads of an insidious disease, yet cheerful under all the discouraging circumstances and as deeply interested as ever in the welfare of this community, Charles Dwight Willard has been confined to his home for many months. On my last visit I found him very feeble,<ANCHOR ID="n43-53">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: though still fired with a resistless enthusiasm; the power of his mind asserting itself over the flesh in forcible, if quiet, expression.  We sat in a comfortable little bower at his home on San Rafael Heights, with Mrs. Willard, his faithful companion; and after he had uttered an earnest desire to see these memoirs published, we chatted about his life and his activities here.  Born in Illinois and graduating from the University of Michigan, an affection of the lungs, brought on by an attack of typhoid fever, induced him in 1888 to come to Los Angeles in search of a milder climate. His first occupation here was to serve as a reporter for the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm:, and then for the morning <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
023.sgm:.  In 1891, he was elected Secretary of the Chamber of Commerce; and during the six years of his incumbency he raised the membership from one hundred and fifty to a thousand, at the same time contributing in a powerful manner to the leading part played by this organization in the fight for a free harbor.  During that period also, in conjunction with Frank A. Pattee and Harry Brook (both well-known wielders of the pen), he started the <HI REND="italics">Land of Sunshine</HI>
023.sgm: (six months later taken over by Charles F. Lummis, as editor, and in 1902 renamed the <HI REND="italics">Out West Magazine;</HI>
023.sgm: ) while in 1897 he assumed the management of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
023.sgm:, from which he resigned two years later.  In 1892, he organized with others the Municipal League, serving it ever since as either Secretary or Vice-President, and in the same energetic way in which he toiled as Secretary of the Associated Jobbers.  In his literary capacity, Willard has been equally efficient, being the author of a compact <HI REND="italics">History of Los Angeles</HI>
023.sgm:, a History of the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce, The Free Harbor Contest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>666</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>647</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:and a high school text-book on city government, all of which, as well as contributions to the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Argonaut</HI>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n43-53">During the night of January 21st, 1914, Willard died--on the anniversary of his birth.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Frank Wiggins' name is considered by many of his friends a synonym for that of the Chamber of Commerce.  Like his predecessor, Charles D. Willard, Wiggins came to California for his health; and upon its restoration, identified himself with the Chamber of Commerce on September 17th, 1889, becoming Secretary in 1897.  Although ferociously bewhiskered, he is the mildest and best-natured man in town.  He has had charge, in all parts of the country, of many exhibits so unique and so successful that he is known from coast to coast.</P>
023.sgm:<P>On May 24th, 1913, while many thousand people were assembled at Long Beach for a Southern California celebration of Empire Day, one of the worst of local catastrophes occurred through the caving-in of the defective floor of a crowded dancing pavilion.  Medical and police aid were at once despatched from Los Angeles; but the result of the accident, the death of forty persons and injury to many more, cast a deep spell over the two cities.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. Charles F. Lummis, assisted by other public-spirited men and women of Los Angeles including Lieutenant-General Adna R. Chaffee<ANCHOR ID="n43-54">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: (the first President), Joseph Scott, Mrs. Clara B. Burdette, Miss Mary E. Foy, M. H. Newmark and William Lacy, on the last day of 1907 incorporated the Southwest Museum.<ANCHOR ID="n43-55">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm: On the 1st of March, 1910, Dr. Lummis, celebrating his fifty-first birthday, conveyed to the Museum his priceless collection of <HI REND="italics">Americana</HI>
023.sgm:.  A sightly eminence of seven-teen acres near Sycamore Grove was secured; and on November 16th, 1912, ground was broken with the formalities usual to such events, the first spadeful being turned by Miss Elizabeth Benton Fr&eacute;mont, daughter of the Pathfinder, followed by General <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>667</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>648</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:Chaffee and Dr. Lummis.  An inspiring feature of the day was the raising by Miss Fr&eacute;mont and General Chaffee of the same flag that on August 16th, 1842 General Fr&eacute;mont had unfurled on the crest of the Rocky Mountains.  On this occasion Henry W. O'Melveny presented a certified check for fifty thousand dollars, the bequest of Mrs. Carrie M. Jones.  This auspicious beginning was followed, on July 9th, 1913, by the pouring of the first concrete.<ANCHOR ID="n43-56">*</ANCHOR>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n43-54">Died on November 1st, 1914.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n43-55">The present officers are: President, Dr. Norman Bridge; Vice-Presidents, Mrs.Clara B. Burdette, Joseph Scott and J. S. Torrance; Founder Emeritus, Charles F. Lummis; Treasurer, Stoddard Jess; Curator, Hector Alliot; Directors, Dr. Norman Bridge, Robert N. Bulla, Mrs. Clara B. Burdette, E. P. Clark, Charles F. Lummis, Dr. J. A. Munk, M. H. Newmark, Joseph Scott and J. S. Torrance.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n43-56">On December 6th, 1913, the comer-stone for the building already looming large was laid by the Rt. Reverend Thomas J. Conaty--the broad-minded, scholarly and much-respected Bishop of Monterey and Los Angeles, who died on September 18th, 1915--and by General Chalee.</NOTE>
023.sgm:<P>Dr. J. A. Munk, an Ohioan, to whom I have just referred, has not been in Los Angeles as long as many others, having arrived only in 1892, but he is known among his friends for his charming personality, and among historians and scientists for his splendid collection of <HI REND="italics">Arizoniana</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Among the features of the Southwest Museum is the large square, or so-called Torrance Tower, the funds for which were generously provided by Jared S. Torrance, whose residence in Pasadena dates from 1887.  In that year he came from the Empire State; and ever since he has been an active participator in the development of Southern California.  The town of Torrance is an example of his enterprise.</P>
023.sgm:<P>My sixty years' residence in Los Angeles has been by no means free from the ordinary family cares, vicissitudes and sorrows, and it seems proper that I should refer to the physicians who, in times of illness, have ministered to the comfort of my home and its inmates. Our first doctor was John S. Griffin, and he continued in that capacity until I left for New York. Shortly before 1873, Dr, Griffin, whose advancing age compelled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>668</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>649</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding these mutations and cares, my friends have often insisted that I am quick and perhaps even sprightly for my age, and have more than once asked to what I attribute this activity and alertness.  It is due, I think, first, to the inheritance from my parents of a strong constitution; and, secondly, to the preservation of my health by a moderate, though never over-abstemious, manner of living.</P>
023.sgm:<P>To begin with, ever since I traveled with my father in Sweden, I have kept my mind healthfully employed, while I have never long deprived myself of rest.  I have also always used tobacco and liquor in moderation; and in this connection I can testify that, although wine and beer were at the free disposal of my children, they have grown up to use it either most temperately or not at all.  This fact I ascribe to liberal views on such subjects; for it has always been my belief that to prohibit is to invite, whereas to furnish a good example and at the same time to warn, is to insure rational restriction and limitation.  In short, in preparation for a vigorous old age, I have followed as closely as I could the ancient ideal, "A sound mind in a sound body. "</P>
023.sgm:<P>At the age of nineteen, I came to Los Angeles; and after a lapse of exactly sixty years-that is, on October 21st, 1913--I find myself completing these reminiscences, ruminating on the past, and attempting a prophecy for the future.</P>
023.sgm:<P>A battle of eighty years with the world cannot, in the nature of human affairs, leave any man or woman unscarred; but I have learned many things, and among them the consolations of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>669</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>650</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>When I came, Los Angeles was a sleepy, ambitionless adobe village with very little promise for the future. The messenger of Optimism was deemed a dreamer; but time has more than realized the fantasies of those old village oracles, and what they said would some day come to pass in Los Angeles, has come and gone, to be succeeded by things much greater still,  We possessed however, even in that distant day, one asset, intangible it is true, but as invaluable as it was intangible--the spirit popularly called "Western," but which, after all, was largely the pith of transferred Eastern enterprise. This characteristic seized upon a vast wilderness--the same which Daniel Webster declared, in the Senate of the United States, unworthy of membership in the sisterhood of States; and within this extensive area it builded great cities, joined its various parts with steel and iron, made great highways out of the once well-nigh impassable cattle-paths, and from an elemental existence developed a complex civilization. Nor is there to-day in all this region a greater or finer city than fair Los Angeles.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Many of us saw it grow; none of us foresaw that growth, even from decade to decade.</P>
023.sgm:<P>"Westward the course of empire takes its way."  When Bishop Berkeley so poetically proclaimed this historic truth, even he could hardly have had in mind the shores of the Pacific; but here we have an empire, and one whose future is glorious. This flourishing city stands, in fact, with its half million or more human beings and its metropolitan activities, at the threshold of a new era. The operations of Nature change so slowly as to show almost no change at all: the Southern California of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>670</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>651</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>"I AM A CITIZEN OF LOS ANGELES!"</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>671</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>653</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<BACK><DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
023.sgm:<P>A<LB>Abalones, 427; shells as jewelry, 261; gatherer trapped, 428<LB>Abarca, Luis (Louis), 63<LB>Abarta, Se&ntilde;orita, 526<LB>Abbotsford Inn, 566, 627<LB>Abbott, William and Mrs. ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Garcia), 186<LB>Abell, J. B., 543<LB>&Aacute;bila, Francisco, 100<LB>&Aacute;bila, H., 403<LB>&Aacute;bila, Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a and Se&ntilde;ora, 100<LB>&Aacute;bila ranch, 447; springs, 210<LB>Abolitionists, 296, 308<LB><HI REND="italics">Acacia latifolia</HI>
023.sgm:, 544<LB>Acapulco, 359<LB>Acorns, as Indian food, 203<LB>Acqueduct, Owens River, 50<LB><HI REND="italics">Active, </HI>
023.sgm: U. S. ship, 251<LB>Adams, Lionel J., 636<LB>Adams, Professor, 419<LB>Adams Street, 459<LB>Adams &amp; Co., 242<LB><HI REND="italics">Ada Hancock, </HI>
023.sgm: disaster to steamer, 75, 109, 132, 154, 295, 300, 316, 319, 329<LB>Adelsdorfer Bros., 120<LB>Adler, Adelaide (later Mrs. Samuel Hellman) 142<LB>Adler, Caroline (later Mrs. I. M. Hellman), 142<LB>Adobe, municipal and county, 36, 40, 41, 209, 256, 324, 338, 530<LB>Adobes, 31, 32, 38, 61, 62, 63, 65, 66, 67, 73 76, 78, 80, 81, 94, 97, 99, 100, 101, 103, 104, 109, 113, 115, 119, 121, 124, 134, 147, 165, 167, 193, 197, 202, 220, 256, 257, 263, 293, 317, 335, 343, 347, 372, 376, 396, 444, 466, 492, 510, 518, 620<LB><HI REND="italics">Adrienne Lecouvreur, </HI>
023.sgm: Modjeska in, 494<LB>Advertisements, 137, 151, 177, 281, 292, 297, 396, 422, 465, 469, 486, 492, 558; pictures in, 356<LB>Advertising, freak, 571; boom--, 573 ff.<LB>&AElig;neas, xiii<LB>Africa, 193, 211<LB>Agricultural Park, 462, 640;---Society, 426<LB>Agua Caliente, 50, 92, 414<LB><HI REND="italics">Aguardiente, </HI>
023.sgm: 134, 278<LB>Aguilar, Casildo, 147<LB>Aguilar, Crist&oacute;bal, 66, 98, 100, 120, 366, 445<LB>Aguilar, Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a, 210<LB>Aguirre, Jos&eacute; Ant&oacute;nio, 174<LB>Aguirre, Martin G., 551<LB>Alameda Street, 63, 112, 187, 197, 201, 304, 383, 394, 400, 408, 493, 562<LB>Alamitos, Los, 599, 520<LB>Alamitos Bay, 374, 630<LB>Alamitos ranch, 166, 329<LB>Alaska, 397, 463, 602<LB>Albacore, 628<LB>Albino, exhibition of, 186<LB>Albuquerque, 222<LB>Alder, 197<LB>Alder, Captain, 251<LB>Alexander, David W., 23, 35, 38, 43, 61, 64, 74, 120, 218, 343, 350, 441, 500; Mrs.-- (formerly Mrs. Francis Mellus), 227 ;--& Banning 218;--& Mellus, 62, 151<LB>Alexander, Frank, 206<LB>Alexander, George, 639, 642<LB>Alexander, George C., 74, 194, 297<LB>Alexander, Henry N., 39, 241, 260; Mrs.--, 39<LB>Alexander, Ram&oacute;n (Raimundo), 59, 64, 193<LB>Alexandria Hotel, 77, 639<LB>Alfilaria, 126<LB>Alhambra and A. Tract, 445, 454, 563, 628<LB>Alisal, El, 543<LB><HI REND="italics">Aliso, El, </HI>
023.sgm: 198<LB><HI REND="italics">Aliso, </HI>
023.sgm: meaning of, 197<LB>Aliso Mill, 198, 218, 303, 499<LB>Aliso Road, 198, 412;--Street, 71, 112, 197, 198, 238, 288, 292, 400<LB>Aliso Vineyard, 197, 198<LB>Allanson, Horace S., 62, 256<LB>Allen Block, 372<LB>Allen, Charles H., 532<LB>Allen, Gabriel, 221<LB>Allen, Jesse, 414, 416<LB>Alliot, Hector, 635, 636, 647<LB>Alosta, 579; Lamar's Addition to, 579<LB><HI REND="italics">Alta California, </HI>
023.sgm: 270<LB>Altadena, 178, 337<LB>Alta Vista, 579<LB>Alton, John, 606<LB>Altschul, Richard, 230<LB>Alvarado house, the, 115<LB>Alvitre, Felipe, 139<LB>Alvitre, Jos&eacute; Claudio, 147<LB>Amat, Thaddeus, 189, 279<LB>America, foreign ideas as to, 361<LB><HI REND="italics">America, </HI>
023.sgm: steamship, 149<LB>American Bakery, 405<LB>American boy, first born here, 33<LB>American Colony, 521<LB>American Express Co., 234<LB>American Fork, 155<LB>Amestoy, Domingo, 310, 421;--Building, 537<LB><HI REND="italics">Amigo del Pueblo, El, </HI>
023.sgm: 308<LB><HI REND="italics">Amigos, Los dos, </HI>
023.sgm: 64<LB>Amo, Dr. del, 174<LB>Amusements, 102, 124, 135, 161, 182, 183, 186, 192, 229, 263, 282, 286, 318, 352, 372, 381, 383, 384, 409, 422, 463, 488, 547, 569, 592, 596, 605<LB>Anaheim, 177, 212, 309, 329, 376, 398, 401, 406, 441, 451, 526, 580, 593<LB>Anaheim, proposed County of, 406, 593<LB><HI REND="italics">Anaheim Gazette, </HI>
023.sgm: 414<LB>Anaheim Landing, 366<LB>Anchorage, 404<LB><HI REND="italics">Ancon, </HI>
023.sgm: steamer, 465<LB>Anderson, D., 83, 297<LB>Anderson, J. A., 638<LB>Anderson, John, 476<LB>Anderson, W. P., 627<LB>Andersonville, 295</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>672</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>654</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Andrews, Harry E., 616<LB>Anecdotes, 43, 51, 52, 53, 56, 82, 141, 151, 155, 162, 175, 176, 177, 183, 190, 196, 222, 269, 283, 300, 301, 325, 336, 337, 338, 345, 419, 458, 474, 492, 523, 579, 598, 610<LB>Angelus Hotel, 508<LB>Angels, City of the, 25, 68<LB>Animals, Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to, 548<LB>Antelope Station, 415<LB>Apablasa, Juan, 31<LB>Apache Indians, 188, 415<LB>Apothecaries' Hall, 156<LB>Appleton &amp; Co., D., 589; <HI REND="italics">Appleton's Journal, </HI>
023.sgm: 430<LB>Apponyi. C. E., 559<LB>Arbucile, Samuel G., 36, 65<LB>Arcade Depot, 112<LB>Arcadia, 574, 578, 579<LB>Arcadia Block, 77, 186, 214, 226, 229, 256, 272, 293, 309, 313, 338, 342, 343, 537, 545<LB>Arcadia, Do&ntilde;a (see under Baker, Bandini, Stearns)<LB>Arcadia Hall (see Stearns Hall)<LB>Arcadia Hotel, 314, 568, 580<LB>Arcadia Street, 226, 408, 518<LB>Arch&aelig;ological Institute of America, 626<LB>Archer Freight and Fare Bill, 489<LB>Archibald, John, 412<LB>Archives, L. A., removed to San Francisco, 231<LB>Ardinger, William C., 150<LB>Arenas, Luis, 179, 210<LB><HI REND="italics">Argonaut, </HI>
023.sgm: San Francisco, 525, 647<LB>Arguello, Concepci&oacute;n, 99<LB>Arguello, Mar&iacute;a Ant&oacute;nio, 473<LB>Arguello, Ref&uacute;gio, 255<LB>Arguello, Santiago, 99, 177, 255<LB>Arizona, 222, 354, 361, 366, 370, 414, 430, 431, 450, 507, 510, 514, 542, 587, 648<LB><HI REND="italics">Arizona, Bibliography of, </HI>
023.sgm: 636<LB><HI REND="italics">Arizoniana</HI>
023.sgm:, 648<LB>Arlington Heights, 357<LB>Armory Hall, 205; new--, 579;--, San Francisco, 312<LB>Armour, Phil D., 582;-- &amp; Co., 582, 623<LB>Arnold, Thomas, 422<LB>Arroyo de los Reyes, 450<LB>Arroyo Seco, 225, 401, 448<LB>Artesian wells and water company, 192, 313, 574<LB>Arza, Syriaco, 262<LB>Asparagus, 125<LB>Asphalt, 114; for sidewalks, 114, 287<LB>Aspinwall, 315<LB>Assayers, 130<LB>Associated Jobberz of Los Angeles, 619, 635, 637; of Southern California, 619<LB>Atchison, Topeka &amp; Santa F&eacute; Railroad, 63, 83, 123, 153, 482, 556, 562, 569, 570, 576, 581, 585, 597, 603, 614, 619; coast line, 589; depot, 477, 586; first train, 549<LB>Atkinson, Samuel, 393<LB>Atlantic &amp; Pacific Railroad, 614<LB>Atlantic States, imports from, 151<LB>Auctioneers and auctioneering, 155, 281, 349, 379, 483, 484, 523, 578, 580<LB>Austin, Henry C., 427, 434<LB>Australia, 160, 439, 544; noted--n convict, 21<LB>Austria, 564;<LB>Austrian Verein, 584<LB>Automobiles, 626<LB>Avalon, 430, 522, 568<LB>Averill, Anna, 533<LB>Aviation meet, first, 639<LB>Avila, Juan, 262<LB>Axtell, S. B., 397, 399<LB>Ayers, James J., 427, 499, 501, 556, 614<LB><HI REND="italics">Ayuntamiento,</HI>
023.sgm: 100<LB>Aztec, derivation from the, 364<LB>Azusa and Azusa ranch, 87, 162, 174, 326, 476, 578, 579<LB>B<LB>Babylon, xi<LB>Bachman, Felix, 66, 212, 256, 275, 290;-- &amp; Co., 223, 290, 332;-- &amp; Bauman, 61<LB>Baer, Abraham, 337; Mrs.--, 338, 409<LB>Baer, Henry, 337<LB>Baer, John Willis, 566<LB>Bahama Islands, 14<LB>Bahia, Brazil, 451<LB>Bailes, 528<LB>Baker, Arcadia ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Bandini), 215, 255, 568<LB>Baker, Charles K., 206<LB>Baker, Edward Dickenson, 285<LB>Baker, Francis, 221<LB>Baker, Frederick, xv<LB>Baker, Fred L., 592, 639<LB>Baker, George the, 192<LB>Baker, Horace, xv<LB>Baker, J. H., 447<LB>Baker, Milo, 592;-- Iron Works, 592<LB>Baker, R. S., 143, 181, 215, 255, 421, 437, 459, 467, 479, 510, 568, 586<LB>Baker, Mrs. T. J., 214<LB>Baker Block, 70, 356, 510, 517, 518, 556<LB>Bakers and bakeries, 77, 191, 244, 311, 332, 367, 368<LB>Bakersfield, 143, 453, 496<LB>Baldwin, E. J. ("Lucky "), 282, 421, 474, 475, 478, 510, 526;--`s Grain Warehouse, 475;--Hotel, 475<LB>Baldwin &amp; Co., 130<LB>Baldwin, Jeremiah, 587<LB>Baldwin, John M., 450<LB>Ball, W. F., 551<LB><HI REND="italics">Ballad of Bouillabaisse</HI>
023.sgm:, 118<LB>Ballestero, Mar&iacute;a, 99<LB>Ballona, La, 179, 299, 321, 359, 375, 460, 580; Port--, 581; --Railroad, 576<LB>Balls, 109, 284, 427<LB>Banbury, Colonel, 579<LB>Bandini, Alfredo, 255<LB>Bandini, Arcadia (later Se&ntilde;ora Stearns and Se&ntilde;ora Baker), 255<LB>Bandini, Arcadia (later Mrs. J. T. Gaffey), 631<LB>Bandini, Arturo, 255<LB>Bandini, Dolores (later Mrs. Johnson), 255<LB>Bandini, Dolores (later Mrs. Ward), 631<LB>Bandini, Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a, 255<LB>Bandini, Jos&eacute;fa (later Se&ntilde;ora P. C. Carrillo), 255<LB>Bandini, Juan 109, 135, 183, 254, 391, 631; Se&ntilde;ora-- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Estudillo), 255; Se&ntilde;ora -- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Arguello ), 255<LB>Bandini, Juan B., 631<LB>Bandini, Juan de la Cruz, 255<LB>Bandini, Juanito, 255<LB>Bandini, Margarita (later Mrs. J. B. Winston), 183, 255<LB>Bandits -- ( <HI REND="italics">bandidos</HI>
023.sgm: ), 206, 333, 453<LB>Bangs, Mrs. Emma C., 532<LB>Banks and bankers, 171, 242, 416, 423, 435, 466, 467, 482; first--, 372; B. failures, 423, 479, 482; B. of California, 477, 478; -- of L. A., 423; Commercial --, 472; First Nat'l --, 472. (See Farmers &amp; Merchants' --.)<LB>Banning, Hancock, 522, 568, 606<LB>Banning, J, B., 522, 568<LB>Banning, Phineas, 23, 35, 42, 74, 157, 199, 218, 236, 248, 250, 274, 276, 283. 296, 301, 306, 313, 320, 321, 322, 327, 343, 345, 346, 353, 354, 356, 361, 363, 368, 370, 375, 394, 410, 412, 421, 426, 441, 495, 500, 507, 548, 562, 568;-- Mrs. ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Sanford), 320; ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Hollister), 368, 411; -- &amp; Alexander, 187; -- &amp; Co., 290, 302, 336, 343, 344. 395; -- &amp; Hinchman, 274, 307, 313<LB>Banning, William, 522, 568<LB>Banquets, 254, 399, 594, 595, 630,<LB>Barbecues, 145, 202<LB>Barbers, 137, 297, 396, 412, 420; as surgeons, 297<LB>Barcelona, Spain, 490<LB>Barclay, H. A., 520<LB>Barham, Guy B., 643<LB>Barham, Richard M., 643<LB>Barker, Obadiah Truax, 518; -- &amp; Mueller, O.T.-- &amp; Sons, --Bros., 518<LB>Barker, partner of Corbitt, 244<LB>Barker, W. A., 606<LB>Barley, 247, 331, 354, 386, 534<LB>Barnard Bros., 450<LB>Barnes &amp; Co., A. S., 418<LB>Barnum, P. T., 13<LB>Barracuda, 127<LB>Barrett, Lawrence, 588<LB>Barri, Juan, 62, 65; -- &amp; Mascarel Block, 189<LB>Barrows, Henry Dwight, 69, 106, 141, 200, 202, 219, 224, 246, 284, 315, 355, 419, 483, 541, 614; Mrs -- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Wolfskill),  142; ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Woodworth), 142; ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Greene), 142<LB>Barrows, James Arnold, 142; Mrs. --, xv<LB>Barrows, Prospero, xv<LB>Barter, George W., 414<LB>Bartlett, A. G., 68, 579<LB>Bartolo, Paso de, 180<LB>Barton, James R., 36, 55, 81, 118, 139, 179, 206 ff., 223, 244, 275; -- &amp; Nordholt, 61; -- Vineyard, 281<LB>Bartow, Mrs. R. C., xv<LB>Baruch, Jacob, 367, 425, 619, 634, 635<LB>Baseball, called town--ball, 596<LB>Bashford, Levi, 416<LB>Basques, 310, 549<LB>Bassett, J. M., 450<LB>Bastanchury, Domingo, 310<LB>Batcheller, Charles L., 598<LB>Bathing, in ocean, 466; in river, 116; in <HI REND="italics">zanjas,</HI>
023.sgm: 322<LB>Baths and bathrooms, 92, 119, 210, 371, 396<LB>Bath Street, 210; -- School, 33, 190, 389, 419<LB>Bath, A. L., 358, 614<LB>Bayer, Joe, 231; -- &amp; Sattler, 230<LB>Beaches, excursions to, 250, 429, 486, 487; growing popularity of, 394<LB>Beale, E. F., 143, 222, 285, 459; --`s Route, 222;-- &amp; Baker, 437<LB>Beale, Truxton, 460<LB>Beal(l), B. L., 204, 317, 469<LB>Bean, J. H., 50; --'s Volunteers, 47<LB>Beane, Charles E., 446<LB>Beans, 332; castor --, 364<LB>Bears, 195, 291, 337, 447<LB>Bear Valley Mines, 247, 268<LB>Beard, A. S., 36<LB>Beau de Zart, Fred W., 559<LB>Beaudry, Prudent, 61, 70, 73, 128, 132, 142, 164, 165, 211, 291, 292, 342 ff., 353, 362, 365, 366, 372, 386, 408, 412, 417, 449, 558, 567, 618<LB>Beaudry, Victor, 241, 386, 558, 567<LB>Beaudry Avenue, 74<LB>Beaudry &amp; Marchessault, 247<LB>Beaumont, 579<LB>Beckley, Anna McConnell, xv<LB>Beckwith, Jim, 63<LB>Beebee, J.W., 339<LB>Beebe, Richard 543<LB>Beecher, Henry Ward, 497<LB>Beel, Sigmund, xv<LB>Beer, 123, 230, 258, 272, 273, 402; -- gardens, 193, 409, 460<LB>Beers, G. A., 455<LB>Bees and beehives, 81, 127, 494<LB>Beet-sugar, 388; first factory, 598<LB>Behn, John, 64, 86, 364<LB>Behn, Louisa, 364<LB>Behrendt, Casper, 72, 270, 271<LB>Behrendt, Samuel, xv<LB>Behymer, Lynden Ellsworth, 607<LB>Belgian hare aberration, 608<LB>Bell, Alexander, 57, 61, 383, 429; Mrs.--, 38, 61, 133<LB>Bell, Horace, 35, 57<LB>Bell, Jacob, 40, 419<LB>Bell, Major, 224<LB><HI REND="italics">Bell, Song of the, </HI>
023.sgm: 119<LB>Bell Street, 61<LB>Bella Union, 25, 27, 80, 92, 93, 94, 110, 136, 150, 154, 169, 183, 184, 219, 223, 226, 227, 228, 229, 245, 250, 251, 256, 265, 269, 271, 272, 291, 306, 316, 327, 341, 347, 348, 349, 354, 358, 362, 369, 380, 397, 398, 399, 400, 436, 469, 472<LB>Bella Union, San Francisco, 22<LB>Belleville, 268<LB>Bellevue Terrace, 532, 559<LB>Bells, Plaza Church, 101<LB>Bell's Row or Block, 27, 57, 61, 119, 362<LB>Bellue, Marius, 551<LB>Belmont, the, 559<LB>Belmont Hall, 563<LB>Belshaw (of Judson &amp; --), 385<LB>Benedict, Samuel W., 476<LB>Bengough, E., and the -- School, 494<LB>Benjamin, P. A., 635<LB>Benjamina, 528<LB>Benner, John, 78; Mrs. --, 527<LB>Bennett, "Hog, " 78<LB>Bent, Arthur S., xv<LB>Bent, Henry Kirk White, 386, 443, 446<LB>Bergin, J. J. and W. B., 470<LB>Berkeley, George, 650<LB>Berlin, University of, 624<LB>Bernard, Juan, 63, 200, 280, 366; Mrs. --, 63<LB>Bernero, George, 554<LB>Bernstein, Fanny, 535<LB>Berry, D. M., 412, 447 ff., 483<LB>Berry, George, 138<LB><HI REND="italics">Bessie, </HI>
023.sgm: steamboat, 387<LB>Best, John T., 352<LB>Bethune, 579<LB>Betting on races, 160; with cattle, merchandise, land, 161<LB><HI REND="italics">Between the Gates, </HI>
023.sgm: 514<LB>Beythien, Cyrus, 212<LB>Bicknell, Frederick T., 488<LB>Bicknell, John D., 468, 488, 540, 555, 597, 598, 626; -- &amp; White, 540<LB>Bicycles, 626<LB>Bien, William, 605<LB>Biggs, Peter, 60, 137, 138, 330<LB>Bigotry, Russian, 5; a later phase of local social life, 383<LB>Bilderback Brothers, 424<LB>Bilderback, J. F., 330<LB>Bilderback, Dora, xv.<LB>Bilderrain, Jesus, 432<LB>Bilicke, A. C., 492, 606, 644<LB>Bill (Hickey), the Waterman, 116, 117, 350<LB>Billiards and b. tables, 81, 261, 384<LB><HI REND="italics">Billy Blossom,</HI>
023.sgm: race horse, 282<LB>Binford, Joe, 373, 545<LB>Bird, O. B., 567<LB>Birdsall, Elias, 339, 340<LB>Bishop, Samuel A., 143; -- &amp; Beale, 143, 234<LB>Bishop &amp; Co., 444, 545<LB>Bissell, W. A., 619<LB>Bits (coin), 162, 279, 461; (harness), 159<LB>Bixby, Eula P., 355<LB>Bixby, John W., 421, 520<LB>Bixby, Jotham, 67, 166, 403, 421, 422, 467, 520; -- &amp; Co., 521<LB>Bixby, Llewellyn, 67, 421<LB><HI REND="italics">Black Bess,</HI>
023.sgm: circus horse, 453<LB>Black, George N., 639<LB>Blacking, early, 4<LB><HI REND="italics">Black Maria</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>673</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>656</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Blacksmiths, 82, 115, 140, 153, 213, 231, 340, 357, 358<LB>Blackstone, N. B., 536<LB><HI REND="italics">Black Swan,</HI>
023.sgm: race horse, 160, 161; dray, 279<LB><HI REND="italics">Black Warrior</HI>
023.sgm:, race horse, 282<LB>Blair, Widow, 184<LB>Blanchard F. L., 68; -- Hall, 68, 536<LB>Blanchard, J. H., 597<LB>Blanco, Miguel, 209<LB>Bland, Adam, 103, 246; Mrs.--, 106<LB>Blankets, Mexican, 29, 158<LB>Bleeding. 297<LB>Blinn, L. W., 606<LB>Blond, J. H., 94<LB>Bloodsworth, Harry, 58<LB>Bluett, W. C., 606<LB><HI REND="italics">Blue Jim</HI>
023.sgm:, carrier pigeon, 430<LB>Blue Wing Shaving Saloon, 396<LB>Blum, A., 608<LB>B'nai B'rith, 314, 338, 339, 608; used for Christian worship, 618<LB>Boar, wild, 447<LB>Board of Education, 105, 162, 187, 190, 211, 216, 262, 321, 354, 388, 538, 539, 547, 626<LB>Board of Trade, attempt to Organize, 425; 537, 569, 586, 634<LB>Boardman, William E., 246<LB>Boehme, George, 480<LB>Bohen, Daniel, 356; -- Lodge, 402<LB>Bollo, Santiago, 78<LB>Bonaparte, Napoleon, 1<LB>Bonebrake, George H., 539, 587<LB>Bonita Tract, 579<LB>Bonnets, all of one pattern, 132<LB>Bonshard, F., 413<LB>Book, J. H., 587<LB>Bookbinders, 213, 410<LB>Bookstores, 428<LB>Boom, development of the Great, 569; height of, 581; collapse of, 582; activities of tricksters, 573; advertising during. 573--580;<LB>assessments, 582; purchases of land by non--residents, 582; 174, 232, 367, 379, 556, 559. 560, 563, 568, 569 ff., 590, 604<LB>Boom, early real estate, 401<LB>Boorham, George, 153<LB>Bootblacks, 396<LB>Booth, Edwin, 494, 588<LB>Booth, Willis H., 631<LB>Boot--jacks, 87<LB>Boots, 86, 158<LB>Boquist, C. V., xv<LB>Borax and Owens Lake, 387<LB>Bordenave &amp; Co., &Eacute;mile, 279<LB>Bors, the miller, 351<LB><HI REND="italics">Boston</HI>
023.sgm:, clipper--brig,  237<LB>Boston Dry Goods Store, 536<LB>Boston, market for wool, 438; fire, 438<LB>Boswell, James, xi<LB><HI REND="italics">Bota de agua, </HI>
023.sgm: 195<LB>Botello, Ref&uacute;gio, 78<LB>Bothnia, Gulf of, 5<LB><HI REND="italics">Boticas, </HI>
023.sgm: 110<LB>Botiller, D., 63<LB>Boundary League, 622<LB>Bouelle, A., 385<LB>Bouelle, Frank A., 385<LB>Bounties to encourage silk industry, 390<LB>Bouton, Edward, 374, 472<LB>Bovard, F. D., 516<LB>Bovard, M. M., 516, 566<LB>Bowman, Mary, xv<LB>Boyce, H. H., 555<LB>Boyle, Andrew, 198, 232; Mrs. --. 232; -Avenue, 220; -- Heights, 198, 202, 232, 374, 492, 551, 598<LB>Boynton, H. R., 635, 637<LB>Bradbury, John, 607<LB>Bradbury Block, 513, 614<LB>Bradfield, Mason, 418<LB>Bradfield, Mrs. C. P., 418<LB>Bradley, C. H., 377<LB>Brady, Bill, 160<LB>Brady, James D., 81<LB>Brandy for tropics, 14; S. Caiif.--, 200, 238<LB>Branding iron, 83, 242<LB><HI REND="italics">Brasero, </HI>
023.sgm: 113<LB>Braun, Frederick William, 469, 589, 619, 635, 637, 638<LB>Brea, 114. 287, 346<LB>Brea <HI REND="italics">rancho, </HI>
023.sgm: La, <HI REND="italics">37, 114, 287, 407, 645</HI>
023.sgm:<LB>Breakwaters, 426, 618<LB>Breckenridge, John C., 282; -- Democrats, 285<LB>Breed Block, 192<LB>Breer, Louis, 153, 239<LB>Bremerman, hotel--keeper, 380<LB>Brent, J. Lancaster, 35, 45, 47, 105, 178, 243, 295, 325, 512; --Street, 47<LB>Brentano, Mrs. Arthur, 71<LB>Breweries: Gambrinus, 258; Henne, 230, 259; New York, 258; Philadelphia, 197, 500; brewer at Anaheim, 213<LB>Brewster, "Professor," 527<LB>Bricks and b. making, 63, 83, 115, 226, 233, 256, 269, 355, 367, 396; champion b. layer. 550<LB>Bridge, Norman, 595, 647<LB>Bridger, Jim, 171<LB>Bridger, Joe, 421<LB>Bridles, 85, 159<LB>Brierly, John R., 464<LB>Briggs, Mary A., 201, 608<LB>Briggs, Samuel, 201, 280<LB>Brinckerhoff, John, 107<LB>Briswalter, Andrew, 124, 125<LB>Broad Acres, McCoy's Addition to, 579<LB>Broadway, naming of, 466, 511, 588, 592<LB>Broadway Department Store, 613<LB>Broaded, John, 471<LB>Brock, Alvan D., 574<LB>Brode, Charles, 624<LB>Brode, Hilda, 624<LB>Broderick, David Colbert, 130<LB>Brodie, John P., 190<LB>Brodrick, W. J., 180, 280, 365, 383, 389, 443, 446, 461, 462, 483, 489, 562; -- &amp; Reilly, 428<LB>Bromley. Allan, xv<LB>Broncos, 243<LB>Brook, Harry, 646<LB>Brookside Vineyard, 281<LB>Broom--making, 261<LB>Brousseau, Julius, 597<LB>Brown, stage--driver, 414, 416<LB>Brown, Dave, 46, 139 ff.<LB>Brown, Jason, 530<LB>Brown, John of Ossawatomie, 530<LB>Brown, Owen, 530<LB>Brown, Thomas B., 363, 587, 597<LB>Brown, Tom, 363<LB>Brown, William M., 444<LB>Brown's Restaurant, 279<LB>Browne, J. Ross, 333<LB>Browning, Elizabeth Barrett, 264<LB>Brownstein &amp; Louis, 601<LB>Brownstein, Newmark &amp; Louis, 601<LB><HI REND="italics">Browsings in an Old Book Shop, </HI>
023.sgm: 612<LB>Brun, murdered peddler, 323<LB>Brundige, H. W., 623<LB>Brunson, Anson, 517, 520, 521, 586, 593; -- &amp; Eastman, 476; -- Eastman &amp; Graves, 476; -- &amp; Wells, 517<LB>Brunswig Drug Co., 224<LB>Brush Electric Lighting Co., 535<LB>Bry, Theresa, 225<LB>Bryan, William J., 613<LB>Bryant, . J.S. 455<LB>Bryant, Joseph, 320<LB>Bryson, John, 538; -- Block, 105, 539, 563<LB>Buchanan, James, 163, 214, 219, 231, 239</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>674</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>657</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Buckboards, 375, 414<LB>Bucket--brigade, 119<LB>Buckskin Bill, 424<LB>Buddin, Henry, 527<LB>Buehner, Valentin, xv<LB>Buffum, William, 67, 381, 466; -- &amp; Campbell, 416; --`s Saloon, 405<LB>Buggies, spring, 417<LB>Buhn, Susan, 229<LB>Bulkhead Bill, 269<LB>Bull--fights, 161, 182, 282<LB>Bulla, Robert N., 540, 647<LB>Bullard, Rose, xv<LB>Bullard Block, 67, 115, 229, 240, 449<LB><HI REND="italics">Bulletin, The Commercial</HI>
023.sgm:, 559<LB><HI REND="italics">Bulletin, </HI>
023.sgm: San Francisco, 284, 285<LB>Bullock's Department Store, 382<LB>Bumiller Block, 530<LB>Bunker Hill, 563, 622; -- tunnel, 622<LB><HI REND="italics">Bu&ntilde;uelo, </HI>
023.sgm: 102<LB>Burbank, David, 578<LB>Burbank, Luther, 315<LB>Burbank, 578, 579<LB>Burbank Theater, 170, 578<LB>Burdette, Clara B., 588, 647<LB>Burdette, Robert J., 588<LB>Burdick, Cyrus, 90, 127<LB>Burdick, Helen L., 90<LB>Burdick, Lucretia, 106<LB>Burglaries, 486<LB>Burgundy, 398<LB>Burials, 307, 406, 409, 430; private --, 494, 520<LB>Burke, J.H., 84, 115, 340<LB>Burland, Captain, 10 ff.<LB><HI REND="italics">Burlington Hawkeye, </HI>
023.sgm: 588<LB>Burnett, Sir Robert, 445<LB>Burnham, R. W., 545, 606, 613, 634<LB>Burns, J. F., 67, 106, 208, 209, 339, 381, 395, 405, 420, 424, 433, 466; Mrs. --, 209<LB>Burns, Ho&ocirc;tel de, 413<LB>Burns, J. O., xv<LB>Burns &amp; Buffum, 466<LB>Burr--clover, 126<LB>Burrill, George Thompson, 56, 57, 171, 190<LB>Burrill, S. Thompson, 51, 57<LB>Burros, 272, 544, 583<LB>Burton, George W., and Mrs., 356, 373; --`s School, 356; <HI REND="italics">Burton's Book on California, </HI>
023.sgm: 373<LB>Busbard &amp; Hamilton, 490<LB>Business, center of, 214; -- conditions in the fifties, 129; -- depression, 334, 339; -- district, extension of area, 518, 570; -- methods, 62, 311; -- prosperity, 289; -- specialization, lack of, 189, 280; --, temporary closing of, 65, 81;--, trend northward, 511<LB>Butler, visit of Benjamin F., 522<LB>Butler, George, 217, 389<LB>Butler, Sam, 404<LB>Butterfield, John, 234, 301; -- &amp; Co., 234; -- routes and stages, 143, 234, 235, 259, 285, 361, 375<LB>Butters, First Mate, 154<LB>Butts, William, 133, 447<LB>C</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Caballero</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Caballos de silla,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cabbage, 125, 272</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cable railway, first, 546, 563; Boyle Heights -- 594; Downey Avenue --, 594; Second Street --, 559, 563, 594; Temple Street -- 547, 558, 567, 594; -- viaduct, 594; description of cars, 595<LB><HI REND="italics">Cachucha</HI>
023.sgm:, 135<LB><HI REND="italics"> Cactus,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cafeter&iacute;as, then and now, 133</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cahen, Hippolyte, 549, 643; Mrs. --, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cahen, Simon, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cahen, Sophie, 465</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cahn, Nathan, 540</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cahuenga, 179, 196</P>
023.sgm:<P>Caj&oacute;n Pass, 228<LB><HI REND="italics">Calabozos,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Caler, Otmar, 212</P>
023.sgm:<P>Calhoun, John C., 296</P>
023.sgm:<P>Caliente, 496</P>
023.sgm:<P>California, 6, 14; -- Constitutional Convention, 47, 48, 49, 55, 89; admission of --, 22, 93; advertising -- in the East, 597; -- Governors from the Southland, 109, 269, 378, 540, 598, 617;--Legislature, first speaker of, 185; Fourth--Infantry, 318;--soldiers in the Civil War, 294, 295, 300, 353;--at the Centennial, 497, 498; unhealthy -- prosperity, 477; -- fauna, 645; -- fruits, first carload shipments 511; <LB><HI REND="italics">California,</HI>
023.sgm: steamer, 346, 465; California Central Railroad, 581; --Editorial Association, 525; -- Fish Co., 628; -- Hospital, 473; -- Silk Center Association, 391; -- State Telegraph Co., 307; University of --, 593; " -- on Wheels, " 482<LB><HI REND="italics">California of the South,</HI>
023.sgm: 589<LB><HI REND="italics">California: for Health, Pleasure and Residence,</HI>
023.sgm: 624<LB><HI REND="italics">California and the Southern Coast Counties, History of,</HI>
023.sgm: 620<LB><HI REND="italics">Californian,</HI>
023.sgm: 93<LB><HI REND="italics">Calzoncillos</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">calzoneras,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Camels and camel--express, 222, 234, 297, 281, 316, 418, 543</P>
023.sgm:<P>Camino Real, El, 533, 627; -- guide posts, 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Camp Alert, 303; -- Independence, 386; -- Latham, 299</P>
023.sgm:<P>Campbell, Alexander, 596</P>
023.sgm:<P>Campbell, Malcolm, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Campbell, Thompson, 146</P>
023.sgm:<P>Camphine, imported by J. P. Newmark, 34</P>
023.sgm:<P>Camping, 429</P>
023.sgm:<P>Camp meetings, 195</P>
023.sgm:<P>Camulos <HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Ca&ntilde;ada de Brea, la, 346</P>
023.sgm:<P>Canal &amp; Reservoir Co., 372, 450</P>
023.sgm:<P>Candidates' announcements, 43, 283</P>
023.sgm:<P>Candles, 34, 183; for lighting tunnels, 502</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cannibal Islands, 93</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ca&ntilde;on Crest Park, 591</P>
023.sgm:<P>Canterbury, England, 469<LB><HI REND="italics">Capitol,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Capitol Mills and Co., 87, 367</P>
023.sgm:<P>Caracole Tower, 648</P>
023.sgm:<P>C&aacute;rdenas, Anast&aacute;cio, 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>C&aacute;rdenas, Ruperto, 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>Card--playing, 55, 81, 230</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cardwell, H. C., 125</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carizosa, Manuel, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carleton, James Henry, 296, 299, 315</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carlisle, Laura E., 389</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carlisle, Robert and Mrs., 168, 197, 347, 348, 389</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carnations, 631</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carnegie Foundation, 567<LB><HI REND="italics">Carne seca,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Carpenter, Frank J., 209</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carpenter, Joseph, 209</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carpenter, L., 417</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carpenter, Lemuel, 106, 172, 180, 261</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carpenters, 81, 203, 213</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carr, Charles E., 35, 36</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carr, J. E., 600<LB><HI REND="italics">Carrera,</HI>
023.sgm: 160<LB><HI REND="italics">Carretas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Carriages and c. makers, 83 ff., 184, 417</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carrier--pigeons, 430</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carrillo, J. A., 98, 99, 114, 396; Se&ntilde;ora -- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Pico), 98; Se&ntilde;ora-- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>675</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>658</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Carrillo, Joaqu&iacute;n, 56, 57</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carrillo, J . J., 255, 510</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carrillo, Pedro C. and Mrs., 255</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carrillo, Ram&oacute;n, 326<LB><HI REND="italics">Carrington,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Carroll, Gabe, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carsley, Bob, 186</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carson, George, 174, 196, 217, 421; Mrs.--, 174, 217</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carson, J. W., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carson, Kit, 187</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carson, Moses, 187</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carson River, 418</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carson Station, 217</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cartago, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carter, Dr., 206</P>
023.sgm:<P>Carter, Nathaniel C., 442, 525; -- excursions, 442<LB><HI REND="italics">Casalinda,</HI>
023.sgm: 185<LB><HI REND="italics">Casamiento,</HI>
023.sgm: 136<LB><HI REND="italics">Cascarones,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cashin, John, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cashmere goats, 127, 413</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cass, Alonzo B., 469, 484, 625; -- Bros. Stove Co., 484.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Casson, C., 491</P>
023.sgm:<P>Castillo Rapids, 15</P>
023.sgm:<P>Castle, Walter M., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Castor--oil mill, 364</P>
023.sgm:<P>Castro, Jos&eacute;, 178</P>
023.sgm:<P>Castruccio Bros., 550; James--, 549, 553</P>
023.sgm:<P>Caswell, Samuel B., 358, 441, 443, 449; -- &amp; Ellis, 358; --, Ellis &amp; Wright, 358</P>
023.sgm:<P>Caswell, W. M., 358, 545</P>
023.sgm:<P>Catalina (see under Santa Catalina Island)<LB><HI REND="italics">Catalina, Antiquities of,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cathedral of Sancta Vibiana, 490</P>
023.sgm:<P>Catholics, Roman, 102, 103, 232</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cattle, 90, 95, 110, 160, 215, 263, 302, 332, 334;--, bet on races, 160; branding of -- 182, 242; --, driven to Utah, 330; -- effect of drought on, 329; slaughtering of -- 302; stampeding of --, 182; --, stolen by Indians, 275</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cauliflower, 125</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cawston, Edwin, 547; -- Ostrich Farm, 547</P>
023.sgm:<P>Caystile, Helen, 512</P>
023.sgm:<P>Caystile, Thomas, 512</P>
023.sgm:<P>Celery, 125</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cellars dug in hillsides, 233</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cemeteries: Evergreen, 104; at Flower and Figueroa, 104; Fort Hill, 104, 280; Jewish, 104, 122, 317; Protestant, 103, 104, 280, 317; Roman Catholic, 103, 317; Rosedale, 104</P>
023.sgm:<P>Censorship, Federal, 371</P>
023.sgm:<P>Centenary of Los Angeles, 528</P>
023.sgm:<P>Centennial Exhibition, 355, 482, 493, 497, 499, 569, 605; -- parade, Philadelphia, 498; celebration in Los Angeles, 50, 365, 593</P>
023.sgm:<P>Centinela Ranch, 445</P>
023.sgm:<P>Central American village life, 16</P>
023.sgm:<P>Central Avenue, 378</P>
023.sgm:<P>Central Pacific Railroad, 388, 423, 440, 475, 497, 504</P>
023.sgm:<P>Central Park, 417<LB><HI REND="italics">Century Magazine</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cerradel, Manuel, 326</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cerritos, los, 166; -- <LB><HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cerro Gordo, 386; -- Freighting Co., 388; -- mines, 385</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chaffee, Adna R., 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chamber of Commerce, first, 425, 449, 450, 482, 489, 498, 503, 569</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chamber of Commerce, present, 334, 569, 589, 622, 634, 647; -- Building, 625<LB><HI REND="italics">Chamber of Commerce, History of the,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Champagne, California, 199</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chandler, Harry, 616<LB><HI REND="italics">Chaparral,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Chapels, private, 103</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chapin &amp; Co., George W., 313</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chapman, Alfred Beck, 46, 52, 335, 351; Mrs. --, 46</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chapman, A. B., 516</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chapman, J. S., 476, 598</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chapman, Joseph, 87</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chapman, R.B., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chapman, R. H., 594, 622<LB><HI REND="italics">Chapollin,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Chapules, Calle de los, 232</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chapultepec, 232</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charity Street, 232, 355, 535</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charity, Sisters of, 189, 203, 210</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charles, Henry, 206</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charleston Harbor, 352</P>
023.sgm:<P>Charter, City, 587</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chartres Coffee Factory, 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chauvin, A. C., 383, 529, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chauvin, Laura, 529</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chavez, Julian, 64; -- Ravine, 118; -- Street, 64</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chavez, Vasquez's aide, 453, 457</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chestnut trees, 163</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chevalier's Apothecary, 371</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chicago, fire at, 431; -- Grand Opera Co., 607; -- World's Fair, 605</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chicken Thief, the, 220</P>
023.sgm:<P>Children, Society for Prevention of Cruelty to, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Children's Hospital, 70</P>
023.sgm:<P>Childs, M. W., 77</P>
023.sgm:<P>Childs, O. W., 69, 125, 127, 163, 201, 223, 231, 342, 353. 423, 428, 462, 495, 516, 543, 573; Mrs. -- and the naming of streets, 201, 231; -- Avenue, 69; -- &amp; Hicks, 69, 223; -- Grand Opera House, 464, 543, 588, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Childs, Mrs. O. W., Jr., 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chile, 332, 389, 542<LB><HI REND="italics">Chilicothe</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Chilis, California, 87</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chimneys, 113</P>
023.sgm:<P>China, Revolution in, 645</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chinatown, 31, 434</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chinese, 31, 79, 123 ff., 188, 261, 278, 297, 382, 389, 418, 428, 503; agitation against the --, 504; at the Centennial, 497; -- feuds, 432; first -- here, 123; -- goods and shops, 279, 298; -- Government demands indemnity, 435; -- junk, 427; -- massacre, 423 ff.; -- music and festivals, 585; -- peddlers of vegetables, 514; -- priests and memorial services, 435; -- trunks, 175; -- women, traffic in, 418, 432</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chino, 598; -- <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Chlapowski, Charles Bozenta, 494</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cholera in Prussia, 4</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cholo, Viejo, 277</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chop-house restaurants, 513</P>
023.sgm:<P>Christian worship in Jewish temple, 618</P>
023.sgm:<P>Christians, church of, 610</P>
023.sgm:<P>Christmas Eve celebration, 102<LB><HI REND="italics">Chronik,</HI>
023.sgm: Los Angeles, 388<LB><HI REND="italics">Chronicle,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Chuckawalla (Chucky Valley), 414</P>
023.sgm:<P>Church festivals, 98</P>
023.sgm:<P>Church of Our Lady of Los Angeles, 100</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chute's Park, 463</P>
023.sgm:<P>Chuzzlewit, Martin, 571<LB>Ci&eacute;nega <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Ci&eacute;nega &oacute; Paso de la Tijera, 275</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cigarettes, 252, 253;--, use by Vasquez, 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cigars, 253</P>
023.sgm:<P>Circuses, 186, 381, 453</P>
023.sgm:<P>Citrus fruits, 88; industry threatened by scale,</P>
023.sgm:<P>City Gardens, 200, 460</P>
023.sgm:<P>City Guards, 147</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>676</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>659</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>City Hall (adobe), 229, 256, 338, 379; (second), 105, 539; (present), 314, 591, 593</P>
023.sgm:<P>City lots, 33, 36, 112, 125, 322, 379, 402, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>City Market, auction of stalls, 258</P>
023.sgm:<P>City Marshal, last, 510</P>
023.sgm:<P>City officials, salaries of, 302</P>
023.sgm:<P>City of Paris store, 452, 540</P>
023.sgm:<P>Civic Center proposed, 510</P>
023.sgm:<P>Civil War, 47, 236, 289, 299, 305, 311, 323, 325, 330, 334, 339, 352, 353, 616; -- and a&euml;ronautics, 561<LB><HI REND="italics">Clamor Publico, El,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Clams, 298</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clancy, J. H., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clanmorris, Lord, 422</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clarendon Hotel, 469<LB><HI REND="italics">Clarissa Perkins,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Clark, Alice Taylor, 50</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clark, Arthur, 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clark, Eli P., 612, 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clark, J. Ross, 599, 644</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clark, Thomas B., 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clark, W., 308</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clark, Walter M., 644</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clark, William A., 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clark &amp; Patrick, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clark &amp; Sons, Alvan, 567</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clarke, George J., 373, 431, 513</P>
023.sgm:<P>Classen, C. H., 252, 259</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clay, Henry, 93</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clayton Vineyard, 200</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clemente, vineyardist, 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cleveland, E. R., 543</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cleveland, Grover, 565, 590; Mrs. --, 474</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clifford, Pinckney, 139</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clifton--by--the--Sea, 632</P>
023.sgm:<P>Climate of Southern California, 271, 370, 382, 448; advertising of, 525, 569, 571</P>
023.sgm:<P> Clinton, E. M., 254</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clock--tower, 241</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clover, Samuel T., 612, 635</P>
023.sgm:<P>Clubs, 230, 272, 383, 409, 473, 545, 600, 604, 607, 624 (see also Turnverein)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coal, blacksmith, 345; --, shipped at low rates, 557</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coal Creek, 155</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coal oil refined without distillation, 346</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coast freighting, 331</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coast Line Stage Co., 496</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coastwise boat service, 246, 366</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coates, Foster, 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coblentz, Joe, 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cock fights, 161</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coffin, Captain, 153</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coffin, John E., 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coffins, 208; use of one as bed, 492</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cohn, Albert, 551</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cohn, Bernard, 180, 383, 425, 550, 595</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cohn, Herman, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cohn, Isaac, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cohn, Kaspare and Mrs., 13, 249, 260, 353, 354, 376, 383, 414 ff., 443, 444, 474, 480, 514, 549, 555, 561, 564, 613; -- Hospital, 641; Kaspare Cohn &amp; Co., 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cohn, Max, 451, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cohn, Samuel, 13, 196, 353, 375, 444</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coins, early American, 247; bits, 162, 279; small coin despised, 247; importation of foreign, 129, 267</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cole, Cornelius, 294</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cole, Louis M., 248</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cole, Nathan, 530</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cole, Nathan, Jr., 533</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colegrove, 612</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coleman, William T., 55</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colling, B. W., 401</P>
023.sgm:<P>Collyer, Vincent, 431</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colorado River, 38, 227, 228; -- Indians, 317</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colorado, proposed State of, 188, 241</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colorado Steam Navigation Co., 473</P>
023.sgm:<P>Colton, D. D., 303, 504; town of--, 549<LB><HI REND="italics">Comet,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Commerce Court, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Commercial Bank, 472</P>
023.sgm:<P>Commercial Restaurant, 490, 538</P>
023.sgm:<P>Commercial Street, 36, 128, 189, 293, 383, 400, 401, 408, 472, 493, 578; New --, 401, 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Commercial Street wharf, San Francisco, 237</P>
023.sgm:<P>Commercial Union Insurance Co., 280</P>
023.sgm:<P>Commission merchants, 310, 342, 434, 436</P>
023.sgm:<P>Comp&egrave;re, George, 474</P>
023.sgm:<P>Compton, G. D., 340, 516; Compton (Comptonville), 263, 340, 382, 393, 466, 574</P>
023.sgm:<P>Comstock Mines, 474, 477</P>
023.sgm:<P>Conaty, Thomas J., 626, 648</P>
023.sgm:<P>Concord coaches, 417</P>
023.sgm:<P>Confederates and the Confederacy, 295, 308, 311, 318, 323, 325, 337, 338</P>
023.sgm:<P>Confidence Engine Co., No. 2, 464, 500</P>
023.sgm:<P>Congregational Church, 622</P>
023.sgm:<P>Conscription, proposed, 323</P>
023.sgm:<P>Consolidated Electric Railway Co., 612</P>
023.sgm:<P>Consolidation of Los Angeles with harbor towns, 638<LB><HI REND="italics">Constantine,</HI>
023.sgm: steamer, 346, 465<LB><HI REND="italics">Contessa d'Amalfi</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Continental Railway, 397</P>
023.sgm:<P>Continental telegraph, 307</P>
023.sgm:<P>Conway, C. R., 306, 315, 341, 350</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cooper, Bill, 471</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cooper Ornithological Society, 640</P>
023.sgm:<P>Copenhagen, 4, 6</P>
023.sgm:<P>Copley, Thomas, 233</P>
023.sgm:<P>Copp Building, 314</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coquillet, D. W., 544</P>
023.sgm:<P>Corbitt, William, 244; --, Dibblee &amp; Barker, 170</P>
023.sgm:<P>Corn, 366</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coronel, Ant&oacute;nio F., 36, 80, 105, 135, 171, 190, 201, 316, 441, 444, 530, 604, 608; Se&ntilde;ora (Mariana, <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Coronel, Manuel, 36</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coronel, Pancho, 426</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coronel, Ygn&aacute;cio, 36, 98, 99, 105, 316; Se&ntilde;ora, 105</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coronel Collection, 622</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coronel Street, 36</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coroner sleeps in coffin, 492<LB><HI REND="italics">Corpus Christi,</HI>
023.sgm: 101<LB><HI REND="italics">Correr el gallo,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Corridors, 113</P>
023.sgm:<P>Corrugated iron buildings, 120, 190<LB><HI REND="italics">Cortez,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cortez, Hernando, xii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Corzina, Mar&iacute;a, 190</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cosmopolitan Hotel, 252, 469, 525</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cota, Francisco, 304</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cota, Mar&iacute;a Engracia (later Se&ntilde;ora Dominquez), 535</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cotton, experiments in cultivating, 317</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coues, Elliott, xii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coulter, B. F., 450, 510, 511, 610; -- &amp; Harper, 372, 511; -- Dry Goods Co., 511</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coulter, Frank M., 511, 545</P>
023.sgm:<P>Council Room, intolerable atmosphere of, 505, 524</P>
023.sgm:<P>County Court, 518;--Judge, first, 518</P>
023.sgm:<P>County Medical Society, 423, 473</P>
023.sgm:<P>County Treasurer, work and emoluments, 260</P>
023.sgm:<P>Court house, -- Temple, 40, 240, 242, 286, 449; --, present, 301, 452</P>
023.sgm:<P>Court of Sessions, first, 176</P>
023.sgm:<P>Courtier, "Professor, " 318</P>
023.sgm:<P>Courtroom, untenantable, 256; -- used for religious services, 246, 314</P>
023.sgm:<P>Courts and court life, 45, 46, 50, 55, 56, 493, 560</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>677</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>660</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Coutts, Cave J. and Mrs. -- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Covarr&uacute;bias, Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a, 216</P>
023.sgm:<P>Covarr&uacute;bias, Nicol&aacute;is, 592</P>
023.sgm:<P>Covent Garden, 360</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cowan, William K., 625</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cowboy sport, 510</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cow counties, 95</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cows and chickens, legislation governing, 572<LB><HI REND="italics">Coyote</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Coyotes, 337, 391</P>
023.sgm:<P>Coyotes, Los, 166, 180</P>
023.sgm:<P>Crabb, Alexander, 150</P>
023.sgm:<P>Crabb, Henry A., 205</P>
023.sgm:<P>Crackers, first locally-baked, 77, 288</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cracroft, Mrs., 306</P>
023.sgm:<P>Craig, Robert L., 600, 619; Mrs. --, 600; &amp; --Stuart, 600; -- &amp; Co., R. L., 600</P>
023.sgm:<P>Crank, J. F., 585, 594</P>
023.sgm:<P>Craw, Alexander, 544</P>
023.sgm:<P>Crawford, James S., 390, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Crawford, Joseph U., 485</P>
023.sgm:<P>Crawley, J. M., 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Credit, shaken, 328; -- system, little, 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Creighton, W. W., 495</P>
023.sgm:<P>Crematory and cremations, first, 567<LB><HI REND="italics">Cricket,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Criminals and crimes, 25, 31, 35, 58, 68, 139, 205, 221, 223, 304, 323, 324, 326, 327, 330, 333, 394, 418, 419, 424, 432, 453, 470, 486, 512, 641</P>
023.sgm:<P>Crocker, Charles F., 324, 504 ff., 524; famous threat to punish Los Angeles, 506</P>
023.sgm:<P>Croft, Thomas H., 448<LB><HI REND="italics">Cronica, La</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Crosby, Mormon Apostle, 345</P>
023.sgm:<P>"Crown of the Valley," 448<LB><HI REND="italics">Crusoe's Island,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cruz, Martin, 217<LB><HI REND="italics">Cuartel,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cuatro Ojos, 76</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cuba, 252, 399, 616<LB><HI REND="italics">Cucamonga,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cudahy Packing Co., 201<LB><HI REND="italics">Cuisine</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Cullen's Station, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cupping, 297</P>
023.sgm:<P>Curley, scout, 261</P>
023.sgm:<P>Currency, depreciation of, 311, 319</P>
023.sgm:<P>Currier, A. T., 531</P>
023.sgm:<P>Curtis, E. A., 125</P>
023.sgm:<P>Curzon, Lady, 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Custer Massacre, 261</P>
023.sgm:<P>Custer, Mrs. George Armstrong, 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>Cuzner, James, 515, 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>D</P>
023.sgm:<P>Daggett, Frank S., 645</P>
023.sgm:<P>Daguerreotype, first one made here, 94</P>
023.sgm:<P>Daimwood, Boston, 324</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dairies, 289</P>
023.sgm:<P>Daley. Charles F., 206</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dalton, E. H., 162</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dalton, Eliza M., 162</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dalton, George, 94, 162, 174</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dalton, Henry (Enrique), 87, 90, 120, 162, 174, 179, 190, 200, 335, 441, 476</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dalton, R. H., 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dalton, Winnall Travelly, 162</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dalton Avenue, 162</P>
023.sgm:<P>Daly, James, 395; -- &amp; Rodgers, 395</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dana, Richard Henry, 235.197, 226, 227, 255, 296; -- Street, 227</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dancing and dances, 136, 183, 402, 427; licenses for --, 137</P>
023.sgm:<P>Daniel, Pancho, 46, 49, 51, 55, 206, 208, 223<LB><HI REND="italics">Danube,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Darlow, Gertrude, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Date Street, 198</P>
023.sgm:<P>David, a kind of torpedo, 352</P>
023.sgm:<P>Davidson, A., 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Davies, J. Mills, 537, 543</P>
023.sgm:<P>Davila, Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Davis, Charles Cassatt, 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Davis, Charles W., 529</P>
023.sgm:<P>Davis, Jefferson, 222, 331, 337</P>
023.sgm:<P>Davis, Johanna, 75</P>
023.sgm:<P>Davis, M. M., 150</P>
023.sgm:<P>Davis, S. C., 75</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dawson, Ernest, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dawson's Book Shop, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Day, Charles E., 587</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dead bodies, robbery of,  320</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dead Man's Island, 290.426</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dean, hardware dealer, 217</P>
023.sgm:<P>Death Valley, 378, 431</P>
023.sgm:<P>De Celis, A., 516</P>
023.sgm:<P>De Celis, Eul&oacute;gio F., 251, 443</P>
023.sgm:<P>Decoration Day, 621</P>
023.sgm:<P>Deen, Louise, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Deighton, Doria, 65</P>
023.sgm:<P>De la Guerra, Pablo, 48</P>
023.sgm:<P>De la Osa, Vicente, 252</P>
023.sgm:<P>Delano, Thomas A., 147</P>
023.sgm:<P>Delaval, Henry. 303</P>
023.sgm:<P>Del Castillo, Guirado L., 352; Amelia Estrella --, 352</P>
023.sgm:<P>De Long, Charles, 143</P>
023.sgm:<P>De Longpr&eacute;, Paul, 617</P>
023.sgm:<P>Del Valle, Josefa, 173</P>
023.sgm:<P>Del Valle, Lucretia, 103</P>
023.sgm:<P>Del Valle, R. F., 98, 103, 469, 511, 517, 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Del Valle, Ygn&aacute;cio. 40, 41, 98, 99, 102, 103, 173, 190, 251, 511; -- ranch house, 531</P>
023.sgm:<P>Deming, J. D., 87; -- Mill, 367<LB><HI REND="italics">Democratic Press</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Democrats, 91, 323, 330, 380</P>
023.sgm:<P>Den, Nicholas, 108</P>
023.sgm:<P>Den, R. S., 107 ff., 371</P>
023.sgm:<P>Denmark, 2, 4, 6, 564, 621</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dentists, 297, 368; itinerant --, 349, 368, 390</P>
023.sgm:<P>Desmond, C. C., 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Desmond, Daniel, 230, 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Desmond, D. J., 405, 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Desmond, William, 155</P>
023.sgm:<P>Desert travel, 312, 316, 354</P>
023.sgm:<P>Desperadoes, 149, 333</P>
023.sgm:<P>De Szigethy, Charles A. H., 649<LB><HI REND="italics">Deutscher Klub</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Devil's Gate, 374</P>
023.sgm:<P>De White, Mrs., 493</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dewdrop Vineyard, 200</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dewey, Samuel, 545<LB><HI REND="italics">Dexter</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Diaz, Bernal, viii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Diaz, Porfirio, 542</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dibblee, ranchman, 244<LB><HI REND="italics">Dick Turpin</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Dickens, Charles, 253, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dickens, Charles, Jr., 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dillon, Richard, 529; -- &amp; Kenealy, 529</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dimitry, George E., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dimmick, Kimball H., 45, 49, 50</P>
023.sgm:<P>Directories, city, 443, 567; first, 410<LB><HI REND="italics">Directory</HI>
023.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Weekly</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Disasters, 22, 48, 154, 165, 204, 224, 238, 312, 319, 439, 536, 644, 647 (see, also, Droughts and Floods)</P>
023.sgm:<P>District Court of Los Angeles, 518<LB><HI REND="italics">Dixie</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Dobinson, G. A., 625; -- school, 625</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dockweiler, Henry, 251</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dockweiler, Isidore B., 251, 469</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dockweiler, J. H., 251, 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dodge. George S., 467</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dodson, Arthur McKenzie, 78, 193</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dodson, James H., 78; -- &amp; Co., 258</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dodson, William R., 471</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dodsworth, M., 482, 537</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>678</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>661</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Dogs, poisoning of, 57</P>
023.sgm:<P>Doheny, E. L., 603</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dohs, Fred, 412</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dol, Victor, 490</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dolge, Alfred, 628; Dolgeville, New York and California, 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dolls, French, 370<LB><HI REND="italics">Dolores,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Domec, Pierre, 344</P>
023.sgm:<P>Domestic inconveniences, 335</P>
023.sgm:<P>Domestics, 123, 124, 297, 313</P>
023.sgm:<P>Domingo, J. A., 238</P>
023.sgm:<P>Domingo, Juan, 238</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dominguez, Anita, 51</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dominguez, Crist&oacute;bal, 173</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dominguez, Juan Jos&aacute;, 173</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dominguez, Manuel, 51, 173, 217, 236, 340, 421, 535; Se&ntilde;ora -- 535; -- chapel, 103; -- Field, 639; <HI REND="italics">rancho --</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Dominguez, Nas&aacute;rio, 78, 173</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dominguez, Pedro, 39, 173</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dominguez, Reyes, 78</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dominguez, Robert, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dominguez, Victoria, 173,</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dominguez, Victoria (later Mrs. George Carson), 274, 217</P>
023.sgm:<P>Door-plates, 377</P>
023.sgm:<P>Doors, how fastened, 113</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dorado, El, barroom, Los Angeles, 103; --, barroom, San Francisco, 22; --, store, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dorsey, H. P., 118, 143, 144, 163, 214</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dorsey, Kewen H., 145</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dorsey, Rebecca Lee, 552</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dotter, Charles, 377; -- &amp; Bradley, 378</P>
023.sgm:<P>Douglas, Stephen A., 282</P>
023.sgm:<P>Douglass, A., 635, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dow, E. L., 423</P>
023.sgm:<P>Downey, Eleanor, 214</P>
023.sgm:<P>Downey, John Gately, 35, 66, 68, 109, 169, 189, 214, 269, 292, 307, 322, 323, 334, 340, 346, 355, 362, 366, 372, 376, 388, 399, 423, 426, 432, 434, 440, 441, 442, 443, 445, 449, 462, 483, 498, 502, 516, 511, 578; Mrs. --, 103, 498, 537, 549;-- town of 180, 340, 362, 367; -- Avenue, 322; -- Block, 66, 70, 343, 372, 390, 406, 443, 545, 593, 630;-- Bridge, 594</P>
023.sgm:<P>Downey, Patrick, 343, 346</P>
023.sgm:<P>Downing, P. H., 301</P>
023.sgm:<P>Downs &amp; Bent, 426</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dozier, Melville, 532</P>
023.sgm:<P>Drackenfeld, B. F., 230</P>
023.sgm:<P>Drake, J. C., 473</P>
023.sgm:<P>Draper, Dureil, Iv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Drays, 74, 116, 138, 279, 527</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dress, evening, in Los Angeles, 400; native --, 158</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dreyfus, Alfred, 451</P>
023.sgm:<P>Drinking and drunkenness, 24, 25, 31, 32, 58, 60, 369, 413, 429, 463</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ducks, 279, 490; wild--, Owens Lake, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ducommun, Charles L., 68 ff., 76, 235, 291, 346, 423; -- Hardware Co., 69; -- Street, 69</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dudley, T. H., 603</P>
023.sgm:<P>Duels, 347, 348, 351, 384, 516</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dunann, S. D., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Duncan, Father William, 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dunham, Ed., 396; -- &amp; Schieffelin, 396</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dunkelberger, Isaac R., 411, 514, 587, 589; Mrs. --, 411</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dunkers, 576</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dunlap, Deputy Sheriff, 424</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dupuy, J. R., 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>Duque, Tom&aacute;s Lorenzo, 355, 589; Mrs. -- 589</P>
023.sgm:<P>Durfee's farm, 471</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dutchman, Flying, 351</P>
023.sgm:<P>Du Puytren, Pign&eacute;, 541</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dye, Joseph F., 221, 418</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dyer, G. S., 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Dyer, J. J., 349</P>
023.sgm:<P>E<LB><HI REND="italics">Eagle,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Eagle Mills, 87, 123</P>
023.sgm:<P>Earl, Edwin T., 623, 642</P>
023.sgm:<P>Earthquakes, 165, 204, 312, 439, 620, 633 ff.</P>
023.sgm:<P>East Los Angeles, 322, 445, 539, 548;--Park, 557</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eastman, James G., 501, 593</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eastman, J., 385</P>
023.sgm:<P>Easton, Jim, 335<LB><HI REND="italics">East Prussia to the Golden Gate, From</HI>
023.sgm:, 403<LB><HI REND="italics">East Side Champion</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Eaton, Benjamin S., 45, 50, 66, 316, 336, 448, 561, 614; Mrs. -- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Hayes), 47, 50; Mrs. -- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Eaton, Frederick, 50, 66, 90, 106, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ebell Club, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eberle, F. X., 460, 463; Marsetes --, 460</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ebinger, Lewis, 367</P>
023.sgm:<P>Echeandia, Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a, 604<LB><HI REND="italics">Echo,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Echo Park, 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eckbahl, Gottlieb, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eckert, Bob, 231</P>
023.sgm:<P>Edelman, A. M., 314</P>
023.sgm:<P>Edelman, Abraham Wolf, 122, 314, 339, 501, 540, 608</P>
023.sgm:<P>Edelman, D. W., 314</P>
023.sgm:<P>Edgar, George A., 551</P>
023.sgm:<P>Edgar, William Francis, 58, 227, 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Edwards, D. K., 382</P>
023.sgm:<P>Egan, Richard, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ehrenberg, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eichler, Rudolph, 367</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eighth Street, 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eintracht Society, 272</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eisen, T. A., 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eldridge, Frederick W., 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elections, 42, 44, 401, 432, 613</P>
023.sgm:<P>Electric Homestead Tract, 546; -- Association, 609</P>
023.sgm:<P>Electric light, distributed from high masts, 535; objections to its introduction, 535</P>
023.sgm:<P>Electric railways, first, 462, 546, 594, 609, 612, 620</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elias, Jacob, 70, 118, 122, 203; -- Bros., 70</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elizabeth Lake, 457</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elks Hall, 584</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ellington, James, 139</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elliott, John M., 466, 473, 598, 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elliott, Thomas Balch, 447, 448; Mrs. --, 448</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ellis College, 566</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ellis, John F., 358</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elm Street Synagogue, New York, organized by Joseph Newmark, 122</P>
023.sgm:<P>El Monte (see under Monte)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Elsaesser, A., 230</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>679</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>662</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Elysian Park, 37, 364, 539, 557, 615</P>
023.sgm:<P>Emerson, Ralph, 212, 257</P>
023.sgm:<P>Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 257, 519</P>
023.sgm:<P>Emerson Row, 257</P>
023.sgm:<P>Emery, Grenville C., 622</P>
023.sgm:<P>Empire Saloon, San Francisco, 22</P>
023.sgm:<P>Empire Stables, 357</P>
023.sgm:<P>Employment agency, 138</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ems, 564<LB><HI REND="italics">Enchiladas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Encino, El, 252, 438</P>
023.sgm:<P>Episcopalians and Episcopal Church, 246, 339, 340, 356, 361, 622</P>
023.sgm:<P>Equator, celebration of crossing, 121</P>
023.sgm:<P>Esperanza store, La, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Espinosa, bandit, 209</P>
023.sgm:<P>Espinosa, Ensign, 169</P>
023.sgm:<P>Espionage in Southern California, 299</P>
023.sgm:<P>Estates lost through easy credit, 130, 131</P>
023.sgm:<P>Encino, El, 252, 438<LB><HI REND="italics">Estranjero, El,</HI>
023.sgm: 605<LB><HI REND="italics">Estrella de los Angeles, La,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Estudillo, Dolores, 255</P>
023.sgm:<P>Estudillo, Jos&eacute; G., 521, 587</P>
023.sgm:<P>Estudillo, Jos&eacute;, 255</P>
023.sgm:<P>Etchemendy, Juan, 311</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eucalyptus trees, 439; notable tree blown down, 439</P>
023.sgm:<P>Euclid Avenue, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eug&eacute;nie, Empress, 360</P>
023.sgm:<P>Europe, travel to, 165</P>
023.sgm:<P>Evans, Charley, 205</P>
023.sgm:<P>Everhardt, Joseph, 251, 274, 275; -- Mrs., 442; -- &amp; Koll, 251</P>
023.sgm:<P>Evertsen, Laura Cecilia, 89, 315</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ewington, Alfred, xv<LB><HI REND="italics">Examiner,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Excursions, 250, 393, 394, 404, 442, 488, 525; dependent on subscriptions, 430; -- and fares, 430</P>
023.sgm:<P>Exposition Park, 640, 645<LB><HI REND="italics">Express, Evening,</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, </HI>
023.sgm:<P>Express business, 138, 373</P>
023.sgm:<P>Express, Pony (see Pony Express)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ey, Frank, 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Eytinge, Rose, 498</P>
023.sgm:<P>F</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fabian, 527</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fair Grounds, 375</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fair Oaks, 316, 337; -- Avenue, 316</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fairs, public, 512</P>
023.sgm:<P>Faith Street, 232<LB><HI REND="italics">Faja,</HI>
023.sgm: 542<LB><HI REND="italics">Falcon,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Falkenstein, Germany, 451</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fall, George M., 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Families, large, 178, 202<LB><HI REND="italics">Fandangos, 135,</HI>
023.sgm: 136, 453<LB><HI REND="italics">Fandangueros</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Fares, excursion, 430; --, steamer, 71, 568; --, railroad, 404</P>
023.sgm:<P>Farish, O. E., 638</P>
023.sgm:<P>Farmers, 126, 354, 363, 393 (see, also, under Ranchers)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank, 63, 70, 404, 423, 465, 467, 476, 478,481, 565</P>
023.sgm:<P>Farragut, David Glasgow, 328, 350</P>
023.sgm:<P>Farrelly. R. A., 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fashion Stables, 499</P>
023.sgm:<P>Faulkner, Charles J., 287</P>
023.sgm:<P>Faulkner, William, 280</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fayal, 404, 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Federal Building, 67, 444, 604, 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>Federal Government and Secession, 318, 321, 330, 339</P>
023.sgm:<P>Federal Telegraph Co., 643</P>
023.sgm:<P>Feliz, Reymunda, 238</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fences scarce on ranches, 182</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ferguson, William, 377</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ferner &amp; Kraushaar, 61</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ferrell, William C., 53</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ferris, Dick, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fiddle used at funerals, 307</P>
023.sgm:<P>Field, Stephen J., 565</P>
023.sgm:<P>Field, Leiter &amp; Co., 602<LB><HI REND="italics">Fiestas de los Angeles,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Figueroa Street, 104, 125, 232, 380, 450, 548</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fillmore City, 155</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fine Arts League, 640</P>
023.sgm:<P>Finger-bowls, first here, 377</P>
023.sgm:<P>Finland, 5</P>
023.sgm:<P>Finlayson, Frank G., 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fires, fire-fighting, and fire companies, 119, 120, 223, 225, 229, 257, 275, 288, 356, 362, 405, 446, 464, 489, 500, 539, 565, 566, 568, 586, 593, 633, 640; first engine, 446; first protection, 120; hand-cart, 119; ordinances, 286; racing to fires, 464; San Francisco, 633 ff., volunteer firemen, 446, 464, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fire insurance companies: Ph&oelig;nix and New England, 280</P>
023.sgm:<P>Firearms, free use of, 59,60</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fire-proof buildings, first, 120, 190</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fireworks, 594</P>
023.sgm:<P>Firmin, Point, 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>First Dragoons' Band, 296</P>
023.sgm:<P>First National Bank, 472, 515</P>
023.sgm:<P>First Street, 62, 112, 408, 417, 518, 543, 570</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fischer, John, 212</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fischer, G., 261</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fish and fish trade, 127, 278</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fish, Captain, 152</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fiske, John, xii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fitch, Tom, 479, 580</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fitzgerald, Edward Harold, 190, 262</P>
023.sgm:<P>Five Brothers, the, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Five Points, New York, 12</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flag presentation, early, 296</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flashner, Marcus, 245; -- &amp; Hammel, 245</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flat Iron Square, 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flatau, Herman, 344, 535, 538</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flax, experiments with, 401</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fleishman, Israel, 72, 256</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fleming, A. P., 638</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fleming, David P., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fletcher, Calvin, 447</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flint, Bixby &amp; Co., 170</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flint, Frank Putnam, 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flint, Motley H., 631</P>
023.sgm:<P>Floods, 257, 258, 309, 313, 362, 365, 412, 541, 551</P>
023.sgm:<P>Floors, earthen, 113</P>
023.sgm:<P>Florence, 388</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flores, Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a, 178, 182</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flores, Juan, 47, 206, 208, 210</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flores, Las, 173, 180, 332, 442</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flour, 322, 331; -- mills, 493</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flowers, festivals of, 512; painter of --, 617;-- strewn on waters, 621</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flower Street, 232, 472</P>
023.sgm:<P>Floyd, pavement layer, 519</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fluhr, Chris, 76, 251, 252; -- &amp; Gerson, 469</P>
023.sgm:<P>Flying horses, 193</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fogarty, J. J., 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foley, W. I., 617</P>
023.sgm:<P>Follansbee, Elizabeth A., 536</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fonck, Victor, 512</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foodstuffs, affected by heat, 88, 287; prices, 331, 332; supply, 88; variety, 124</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foot-bridges, 289, 412</P>
023.sgm:<P>Forbes, A. S. C., 628; Mrs. --, 621, 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Forbes, Charles Henry, 214</P>
023.sgm:<P>Forest of Arden, 494</P>
023.sgm:<P>Forest Grove Association, 439</P>
023.sgm:<P>Forman, Charles, 172, 477, 573</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>680</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>663</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Forster, Francisco (Chico), 526</P>
023.sgm:<P>Forster, Juan, 98, 173, 326, 332, 526, 531; Do&ntilde;a -- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Fort Hill, 104, 209, 280, 417</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fort Pillow Massacre, 330</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fort Street, 400, 408, 417, 466, 472, 561; called Broadway, 511, 592; property values on, 67, 332, 381; prophecy as to, 466; widening of, 588</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fort Tej&oacute;n, 194, 195, 207, 234</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fort Yuma, 424</P>
023.sgm:<P>Forthman, J. A., 470</P>
023.sgm:<P>Forwarding, 23, 74, 236, 242, 272, 274, 312, 342, 343, 351, 373; toll for, 345 (see Camel-express)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foshay, James A., 606, 625</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fossils, excavation of, at La Brea <HI REND="italics"> rancho, </HI>
023.sgm:<P>Foster, F., 239</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foster, Stephen C., 30, 35, 49, 105, 120, 139, 140, 147, 200, 263, 500; Mrs. --, 263</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foster, Thomas, 107, 108, 118, 156, 189, 203, 246, 312, 321; Mrs. --, 107</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foster, Timothy, 518 Foster &amp; McDougal, 76</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foster Vineyard, 200, 201</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foundry, Stearns, 186, 226</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fountains, 418; presentation to city, 534</P>
023.sgm:<P>Four-story structure, first, 534</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fourth of July celebrations, 47, 157, 193, 273, 300, 321, 330, 428, 429, 499</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fowler, James G., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fox, ostrich handler, 547</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foy Bros., 110</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foy, James C., 110,</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foy, James Calvert, 111</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foy, John M., 110, 111</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foy, Mary E., 111, 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Foy, Samuel C., 110, 111, 205, 256, 500, 624; Mrs. --, 92, 106, 205, 224</P>
023.sgm:<P>Frame buildings, first on Fort Street, 466; -- of the seventies, 518</P>
023.sgm:<P>France, 564, 621</P>
023.sgm:<P>Francisco, A. W., 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Francisco, the vender, 629</P>
023.sgm:<P>Francis, John F., 174, 606, 613, 622</P>
023.sgm:<P>Frank, H. W., 216, 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Franklin, John, 306; supposed records of, 395</P>
023.sgm:<P>Franklin, Lady, visit to Los Angeles, 306, 395</P>
023.sgm:<P>Franklin Alley, 36, 40</P>
023.sgm:<P>Franklin Street, 36, 334, 408</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fraser, A. R., 603<LB><HI REND="italics">Frazadas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Fredericks, John D., 641</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fredericks, Katherine, 378<LB><HI REND="italics">Free Harbor Contest,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Free, Micky, 413</P>
023.sgm:<P>Free lunches, 303, 402, 571</P>
023.sgm:<P>Freeman, Dan, 421, 445, 510, 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Freight: dissatisfaction with rates, 504, 506; high rates, 290, 404; shipment of --, 153</P>
023.sgm:<P>Freighting along the coast, 345, 435; -- by teams, 290, 416</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fr&eacute;mont, Elizabeth Benton, 625, 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fr&eacute;mont, J. C., 61, 99, 156, 171, 173, 178, 272, 297, 514, 597, 612, 648; --Trail, 448</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fr&eacute;mont, Jessie Benton, 606, 625; carriage of, 86; gift of residence to, and death of, 625</P>
023.sgm:<P>French, E. C., 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>French, L. W., 368</P>
023.sgm:<P>French, T. B., 121</P>
023.sgm:<P>French Benevolent Society, 303, 338, 402, 500</P>
023.sgm:<P>French bread, 77</P>
023.sgm:<P>French Consul, 254</P>
023.sgm:<P>French Hospital, 402</P>
023.sgm:<P>French language, 341, 450, 528</P>
023.sgm:<P>Frenchmen, 199, 207</P>
023.sgm:<P>French newspapers, 516, 541</P>
023.sgm:<P>French Restaurant, 279</P>
023.sgm:<P>Friday Morning Club, 600</P>
023.sgm:<P>Friedlander, Isaac, 331<LB><HI REND="italics">Frijoles,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Frink, E. B., 405; --'s Ranch, 414</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fr&ouml;hling, John, 117, 212, 213, 294</P>
023.sgm:<P>Frosts, 212, 525</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fruit, sent to the President, 219; peddler of, 126; -- grafts, first from New York, 33;-- trees imported from the East, 139</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fuentes, Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fullerton, 577</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fulton, J. E., 483; -- Wells, 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Funeral customs, 306, 307</P>
023.sgm:<P>Furman, George, 464</P>
023.sgm:<P>Furniture, 81, 377</P>
023.sgm:<P>Furrey, W. C., 69, 605</P>
023.sgm:<P>Fussell, Effie Josephine, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>G</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gadsden Purchase, 222</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gaffey, John T. and Mrs., 631</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gage, H. R., 603</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gage, Henry T., 168, 617; Mrs. -- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Galatin, 362, 367, 425</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gale, Anita, 170</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gallagher, James, 462</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gallardo, Francisca, 100</P>
023.sgm:<P>Galta, P., 191</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gamblers and gambling, 29 ff., 149, 510 property lost through--, 131; -- at San Francisco, 21, 29</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gamut Club, 625</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ganahl, Frank J., 416, 488</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gan&eacute;e, P., 516 Garage, first, 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garcia, Francisca, 95</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garcia, Joseph S., 65, 237, 239; Mrs. --, 239</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garcia, Manuel, 206</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garcia, Merced, 186</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garcia, Ygn&aacute;cio, 66, 67, 335</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gard, George E., 464, 529, 552, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garden of Paradise, 192, 272, 273, 523</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garden Grove, 177</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gardens, few, 54, 69, 114, 124, 147, 163, 192; outdoor --, 273, 275, 340, 410, 463,</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gardiner, James, 530</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garey, Thomas A., 91, 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garfias, Manuel, 36, 578, 237, 238</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garfield, James A., memorial services here, 529; Mrs. --, resident, 529</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garland, W. M., 606, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garnier Bros., 421, 438;--, Camille, Eug&egrave;ne, Philip, 438</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garra, Ant&oacute;nio, 50, 168, 169</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garter, Mexican, 158</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garvanza, 578</P>
023.sgm:<P>Garvey, Richard, 282</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gas, 267, 349, 355, 370, 396, 561, 604; -- fixtures, 355; -- Co., 349, 561; -- rates, 489</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gasoline stoves, 516</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gates Hotel, 566</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gattel, Bernhard, 319</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gaviota Pass, 246</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gefle, 4</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gelcich, V., 110, 428, 548</P>
023.sgm:<P>Geller, William, 74</P>
023.sgm:<P>George the Baker, 65</P>
023.sgm:<P>Georgetown, 193</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gephard, George, 532</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gerkins, J. F., 510</P>
023.sgm:<P>Germain, Eug&egrave;ne, 510, 537, 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>German bankers and statesmen, visit of, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>German Benevolent Society, 272; -- of ladies, 527</P>
023.sgm:<P>German bread, 77</P>
023.sgm:<P>German hotels and highways, 564</P>
023.sgm:<P>German language, demand for teaching the, 383</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>681</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>664</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>German music, 213, 214, 259, 272, 409,584; -- newspapers, 388,465, 584; first German newspaper here, 465; -- school, first, 428</P>
023.sgm:<P>Germania Life Insurance Co., 319</P>
023.sgm:<P>Germans and Germany, 207, 212, 272, 378, 453, 564, 621; German--born American citizens, 239; travel in Germany in 1849, 3</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gerson, Charles, 251, 469</P>
023.sgm:<P>Getman, William C. (Billy), 31, 208, 220, 221</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gibbon, Thomas Edward, 595, 606, 642</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gibbons, James, 586</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gibson, A. P., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gibson, C. W., 470,537</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gibson, Fielding W , 90, 261</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gibson, Frank A., 545, 598, 613</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gieze, F. J., 291</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gift, George W., 294</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gila River, 38, 188, 261;--, passage by emigrants, 188</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gilbert &amp; Co., 155</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gilchrist, Ira, 81</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gillette, J. W., 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gilman's, 414</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gilroy, 234, 497</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ginnochio, G., 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gird, Richard, 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Giroux, L. G., 480</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gitchell, Joseph R., 45, 54, 246</P>
023.sgm:<P>Glaciers, 398,602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gladstone, William Ewart, 579;--, proposed town of, 579, 593<LB><HI REND="italics">Gladstone,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Glasscock, J. Sherman, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Glassell, Andrew, 363</P>
023.sgm:<P>Glassell, Andrew J., 350, 352, 363, 423, 488, 517; -- &amp; Chapman, 352;--, Chapman &amp; Smith, 351;--, Smith &amp; Patton,363</P>
023.sgm:<P>Glassell, Wm. T., 352</P>
023.sgm:<P>Glendale, 177, 424,578,579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Glendora, 576, 578, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Goats, Angora, 413; --, Cashmere, 413; --, wild, 216</P>
023.sgm:<P>Godey, Alexander, 272; --`s ranch, 272</P>
023.sgm:<P>Godfrey, John F., 499, 556 Gold, 39, 94, 95, 142, 247, 268, 321, 333, 380, 402, 476; appreciation of --, 319; -- bars, 415; -- dust, 95, 96, 130, 242; found in ruins, 223; -- mining, 148, 149, 201, 228; -- searching for, 254, 313, 318, 386; -- notes, 319; -- nugget, 39, 40; -- and the San Francisco Clearing House, 95</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gold Hill, Nevada, 477</P>
023.sgm:<P>Golden Gate, 17, 19, 121, 123, 204, 211, 283, 635<LB><HI REND="italics">Golden State</HI>
023.sgm:, steamer, 306<LB><HI REND="italics">Gold Hunter,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Goldwater, Joe and Mike, 321<LB><HI REND="italics">Goliah,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Goller, John, 28, 65, 82, 85, 121, 149, 153, 239, 300, 384, 417, 433<LB><HI REND="italics">Gondolier</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Gonzales, Juan, 140</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gonzales &amp; Co., Jos&eacute; E., 308</P>
023.sgm:<P>Goodall, Nelson &amp; Perkins, Goodall, Nelson &amp; Co., 465</P>
023.sgm:<P>Goodman, Morris L., 150, 213</P>
023.sgm:<P>Goodwin, L. C., 70, 150, 500; Mrs., --, 70</P>
023.sgm:<P>Goodwin, Pat, 357</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gordo, Louis, 369, 370</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gordon, John W., 362</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gordon, Captain, 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gordon's Station, 195</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gospel Swamp, 366</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gothenburg, 4,6, 7,8, 9</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gould, Will D., 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>Government, messenger to New Mexico, 282; -- stores, transportation of, 354</P>
023.sgm:<P>Graff, M. L., 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grand Army of the Republic, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grand Avenue, 232</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grand Central Hotel, 469, 492</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grand Hotel, San Prancisco, 430, 440</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grand Opera House, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grand Rabbi of France, 450</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grand, S., 382</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grange stores, 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Granger, Lewis, 33, 36, 45, 53, 105</P>
023.sgm:<P>Granite Wash, 414, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grant, U. S., 255, 328, 446, 500</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grapes, 25, 103, 139, 142, 199, 265, 285, 412, 576;--, first sent east, 139; vines grown in dry soil, 337<LB><HI REND="italics">Graphic,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Grasshoppers, 266</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grasshopper Street, 232</P>
023.sgm:<P>Graves, J. A., 69, 475; --, 0'Melveny &amp; Shankland, 476</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gray, Charlotte, 91</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gray, F. Edward, 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gray, William H., 432<LB><HI REND="italics">Greasers,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Great Salt Lake, 302</P>
023.sgm:<P>Greek George, 223, 234, 281, 455, 457, 543</P>
023.sgm:<P>Greenbacks, 319, 380, 522</P>
023.sgm:<P>Greenbaum, E., 72; Mrs. --, mother of first Jewish child born here, 104</P>
023.sgm:<P>Green Meadows, 40</P>
023.sgm:<P>Greenwich Avenue School catastrophe, New York, 224</P>
023.sgm:<P>Greene, Bessie Anne, 142</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gregory, John H., 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gregson, F. P., 619, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Greppin, E. H., 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grey Town, 14</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grierson, B. H., 587</P>
023.sgm:<P>Griffin, George Butler, 526</P>
023.sgm:<P>Griffin, John S., 47, 106, 107, 108, 193, 200, 205, 207, 237, 241, 252, 294, 316, 320, 322, 337, 346, 365, 371, 412, 423, 426, 445, 448, 449, 500, 594, 614, 617, 618, 648; Mrs. --, 47, 205, 316;--Avenue, 322</P>
023.sgm:<P>Griffith, Alice H., 476</P>
023.sgm:<P>Griffith, Fred, 546</P>
023.sgm:<P>Griffith, Griffith J., 541, 614, 643; -- Park, 614, 643</P>
023.sgm:<P>Griffith, J. M., 190, 290, 340, 356, 428, 441, 449, 466, 476, 546, 614, 636; -- Avenue, 636;--Lynch &amp; Co., 466</P>
023.sgm:<P>Griffith, J. T., 606<LB><HI REND="italics">Gringos,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Groningen, Johann, 238</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grosse Building, 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grosser, Elsa, 62</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grosser, William F., 623</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grosser Tract, 623</P>
023.sgm:<P>Grosvenor, Gilbert H., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guadalupe, 496</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guatemala, 542</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guerra, Pablo de la, 35,48</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guerra, Trinidad de la, 336</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guillen, Eulalia Perez, 493</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guillen, Mariana, 493</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guinn, James Miller, 402, 419, 526, 533,541, 614, 620, 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guiol, Frederico, 369</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guirado, Bernardino, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guirado, F. L., , 35</P>
023.sgm:<P>Guirado, Francisco, 499</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gunsmiths, 147, 230</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gurley, H. B., 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gwin, William McKendree, 296</P>
023.sgm:<P>Gymnasiums, Turnverein, 192, 409, 584, 629; 273; petition for a --, 383, 545</P>
023.sgm:<P>H</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haap, Mary, 213</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haas, Abraham, 230, 425, 537; --, Baruch  &amp; Co., 367, 425, 595</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haas, Jacob, 425</P>
023.sgm:<P>Habra, la, 166, 179, 547</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Hacienda</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>682</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>665</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Hacks, 306, 389, 417</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hafen, Conrad, 378;--, Hafen House, 378</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haight, Fletcher M., 279</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haight, H. H., 279</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hail, 314</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haiwee Meadows, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hale, Charles, 77</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haley, Robert, 285, 311</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haley, Salisbury, 22, 152, 181, 204, 311; Mrs. --, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Halfhill, Albert P., 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Half--Way House, 25</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hall, Charles Francis, 395</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hall, E. A., 568</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hall, Hiland, 246</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hall, John, 527</P>
023.sgm:<P>Halle University, Germany, viii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Halsey, Dr., 215, 212</P>
023.sgm:<P>Halstead, Willard G., 386</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hamburg--Bremen Fire Insurance Co., 120</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hamburger, Asher, 529; -- &amp; Sons, A., 529; -- Building, 593, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hamburger, D. A., 529, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hamburger, M. A., 529, 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hamburger, S. A., 529</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hamilton, Harley, 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hamilton, Henry, 192, 280, 371, 413, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hamilton, Maggie, 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hamlin, Homer, 638</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hammel, Henry, 259, 316, 380; -- &amp; Denker, 469, 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hammel, William A., 115</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hammel, William A., Jr., 115, 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hammond, Miss L. J., milliner, 491</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hampton, W. E., 637<LB><HI REND="italics">Hancock, Ada</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Hancock, George Allan, 37</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hancock, Henry, 34, 36, 37, 104, 112, 149, 500; Mrs. --, 18, 37; --`s surveys, 33, 38; -- ranch, 114</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hancock, Winfield Scott, 82, 246, 247, 265, 281, 282, 294, 296, 297, 299, 300, 301, 346, 512; Mrs. --, 300 (see under <HI REND="italics">Hancock, Ada</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Hangtown, 428</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hanlon, John, 591</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hanna, D. W., 566</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hansen, George, 34, 37, 38, 212, 372, 411, 423, 450, 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haparanda, 4, 5</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haraszthy, Augustin, 37<LB><HI REND="italics">Harbor Contest, The Free</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Hardison, Wallace R., 622</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hardy, Alfred, 206, 207</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hardy, surveyor, 34</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hard times, 256, 333</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harford, Port, 346</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harmon, J., 371</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harned, J. M., 429</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harper, Arthur C., 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harper, Charles F., 371; -- &amp; Moore, --, Reynolds &amp; Co., Harper-Reynolds Co., -- &amp; Coulter, 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harper's Ferry, 530<LB><HI REND="italics">Harper's Magazine,</HI>
023.sgm: 547, 597; -- <HI REND="italics">Weekly</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Harris, Emil, 405, 409, 425, 433, 434, 455 ff.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harris, L., 18, 216</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harrison, William Henry, 93, 519</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harrison, Miss, 225</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hart, F. J., 638</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hart, Mary E., 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harte, Bret, 32, 528</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hartley, B. F., 455</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hartman, Isaac and Mrs., 54</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hartshorn Tract, 391</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hartung Edgar J., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harvard School, 622</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harvey, J. Downey, 214</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harvey, T. J., 269</P>
023.sgm:<P>Harvey, Walter Harris and Mrs., 214</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haskell, Leonidas, 272</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hathaway, C. D., 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hathwell, Belle Cameron (later Mrs. C. E. Thom), 52</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hathwell, Susan Henrietta (later Mrs. C. E. Thom), 52</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hatmakers, native, 159</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hatter, first, 230, 405; 213</P>
023.sgm:<P>Havilah, 148, 149, 375</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hawkes, Emma L., 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hawthorne, H. W., 404</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hay, high price of, 445, 453</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hayes, Benjamin, 35, 45, 46, 48, 139, 189, 256, 501, 596; Mrs. --, 46</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hayes, Chauncey, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hayes, Helena (later, Mrs, B. S. Eaton), 47, 50</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hayes, Louisa (later, Mrs. J. S. Griffin), 47, 106, 107</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hayes, Rutherford B., 522, 596</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hayes, R. T., 107, 143, 156, 320, 423</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hayes, T. A., 91</P>
023.sgm:<P>Haynes, John R., 473, 649</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hay-scale, public, 288</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hayward, A. B., 107, 291</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hayward, James Alvinza, 372; -- &amp; Co., 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hayward Hotel, 192</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hazard, A. M., 74</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hazard, Dan, 74, 415, 416</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hazard, George W., 74, 258</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hazard, Henry T., 74, 235, 415, 433, 442, 446, 521, 584, 590, 594, 606; Mrs. --, 74; --'s Pavilion, 512, 590, 592; -- Street, 75</P>
023.sgm:<P>Healdsburg, 389</P>
023.sgm:<P>Healey, Charles T., 618</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hearst, William Randolph, 626, 643</P>
023.sgm:<P>Heat, excessive, 257</P>
023.sgm:<P>Heath, Samuel M., 91, 92</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hebrew Benevolent Society, 122, 432 ; --, Ladies', 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hecht, Sigmund, 618</P>
023.sgm:<P>Heinsch, Hermann, 213, 214, 230, 259, 272, 383; Mrs. --, 213; --Building, 214</P>
023.sgm:<P>Heinsch, R. C., 214</P>
023.sgm:<P>Heintzelman, Henry, 35</P>
023.sgm:<P>Heinzeman, C. F., 230, 371</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hellman, H. M., 242, 311</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hellman, Herman W., 53, 142, 248, 383, 425, 449, 608; --, Haas &amp; Co., 425, 500, 506, 595; -- Building, 53</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hellman, I. M., 142, 248, 311, 409, 423, 480; --& Bro., 309, 311, 462, 478, 480, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hellman, I. W., 53, 63, 70, 191, 248, 311, 346, 366, 372, 383, 423, 516, 555, 560, 562, 595; -- Building No. 1, 383; -- Temple &amp; Co., 372, 416, 423; -- &amp; Co., 417</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hellman, James W., 69</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hellman, Marco H., 248</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hellman, Maurice S., 143</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hellman, Samuel, 142, 311, 365, 428, 605; -- &amp; Widney, 311</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henderson, A. J., 304</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henderson Bros., 416</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henderson, John W., 304</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henne, Christian, 230, 259, 334; -- Block, 192</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henrickson, Clois F., 401</P>
023.sgm:<P>Henriot, Fran&ccedil;ois and Mme., 225<LB><HI REND="italics">Henry</HI>
023.sgm: steamer, <HI REND="italics">Chancey, </HI>
023.sgm:<P>Henseley, Captain, 62<LB><HI REND="italics">Herald,</HI>
023.sgm: Los Angeles, 450, 498, 516, 556, 595, 607, 612, 614, 622, 628, 643, 646<LB><HI REND="italics">Herald,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Hereford, M., 320</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hereford, Margaret S., 169</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hereford, Robert S., 150</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hereford, Thomas S., 169</P>
023.sgm:<P>Herodotus, xii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hester, R. A., 324</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hewitt, Eldridge Edwards, 321, 404, 489, 506</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hewitt, J., 389, 397</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hewitt, Leslie R., 638<LB><HI REND="italics">Hermosa,</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>683</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>666</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Hern&ouml;sand, 4</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hickey, William (Bill, the Waterman), 116, 517, 350</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hicks, J. D., 69, 142, 217; -- &amp; Co., 69, 142</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hides and hide-business, 196, 197, 257, 331, 408, 613; shipping hides, 197</P>
023.sgm:<P>Higbee, George H., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>High, E. Wilson, 150</P>
023.sgm:<P>High School, Los Angeles, 301, 419, 452, 532</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hill-property, 376, 460, 558</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hill Street, 377, 472</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hinchman, A. F., 66, 67, 241, 313</P>
023.sgm:<P>Historical Society of Southern California, 541, 604, 631, 640; open air meeting of, 604</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hodge, Federick Webb, xii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hodges, A. P., 107</P>
023.sgm:<P>Holbrook, J. F., 377</P>
023.sgm:<P>Holcomb, William, 268; -- Valley and -- Mines, 268, 282</P>
023.sgm:<P>Holder, Charles Frederick, 557</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hollenbeck, John Edward, 357, 461, 473, 492; Mrs. --, 598; -- Home, 220, 494, 598; -- Hotel, 492, 518, 598; -- Park, 598</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hollingsworth, H. T., 449</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hollingsworth, Lawson D. and Mrs., 449</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hollister, John H., 368, 410, 543</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hollister, Mary, 368, 410</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hollywood, 455, 563, 612, 617</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hollywood, Mount, 643</P>
023.sgm:<P>Holmes, James, 401</P>
023.sgm:<P>Holmes, Oliver Wendell, 519</P>
023.sgm:<P>Home of Peace society, 104, 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Home Telephone and Telegraph Co., 484</P>
023.sgm:<P>Homes, furnishing of, 113, 124</P>
023.sgm:<P>Honolulu, 156; --, wirelees telegraphing to, 643<LB><HI REND="italics">Honeymoon, The</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Hook, Thomas J., 609</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hook, William Spencer, 609</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hoover (formerly Huber), Leonce, 185, 199, 200, 201; -- Street, 201; -- Vineyard, 198</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hoover, Mary A., 201</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hoover, Vincent A., 200, 201, 467</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hope, A. W., 35, 99, 107, 209</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hope Street, 232, 472</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hopkins, Mark, 324</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hopper, Joseph, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Horn, A. J., 91</P>
023.sgm:<P>Horn, Cape, 37, 62, 86, 107, 121, 123, 167, 203, 221, 284, 352, 397, 411</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hornbeck, Robert, 176</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hornung, Adelbert, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Horses, 243, 318, 332, 354; --, bet on races, 160; --, breaking in, 243; --, breeding of, 95, 215, 423, 592; --, effect of drought on, 215, 329; horse-thieving, 326; runaway --, 243</P>
023.sgm:<P>Horse cars, 460 ff., 562, 609</P>
023.sgm:<P>Horsemanship, 242, 243</P>
023.sgm:<P>Horse-racing, 109, 160, 182, 375</P>
023.sgm:<P>Horticultural Hall, 512</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hospitality, 113, 135; --, Spanish-American, 71, 150, 252, 604; -- of the City, 341, 398</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hospitals, 210, 250</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hotels and hotel life, 227, 245, 369, 380, 396, 397, 408, 481; --, advertising, 469; lack of, during Boom, 581; under surveillance, 299; Hotel Splendid, 581. ( <HI REND="italics">See, also,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Hotz, Walter, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hough, A. M., 515</P>
023.sgm:<P>Houghton, Sherman Otis, 596; --, Silent &amp; Campbell, 596</P>
023.sgm:<P>House, building, 82; --, furnishing, 82; -- moving of, 477;--, three-story, 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howard, Charles, 384</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howard, Fred H., 439; -- &amp; Smith, 439</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howard, Frederick Preston and Mrs., 201, 461</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howard, James G., 347, 350, 554, 555</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howard, O. O., 431</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howard, Volney E., 54, 55, 346, 356, 384, 529, 593; Mrs. --, 55; --, Butterwortb &amp; Newmark, 312</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howard, William D. M., 227; -- &amp; Mellus, 227</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howard-Nichols duel, 384</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howe. F. A., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howell, R. H., 600, 606; -- &amp; Craig, 600</P>
023.sgm:<P>Howland, F. H., 535, 546</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hoyt, Albert H., 106</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hoyt, Gertrude Lawrence, 92, 106, 107, 258</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hoyt, Mary, 107, 257, 321</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hubbell, S. C., 461, 521</P>
023.sgm:<P>Huber, Caroline, 201</P>
023.sgm:<P>Huber, Edward, 201</P>
023.sgm:<P>Huber, Emeline, 201</P>
023.sgm:<P>Huber, Joseph, 200, 201; Mrs. -- 201</P>
023.sgm:<P>Huber, Joseph, 201, 261</P>
023.sgm:<P>Huber, William, 201</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hudson River, 625</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hughes, Captain, 237, 276</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hughes, saloon-keeper, 103</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hughes, W. E., 589</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hughes, steam-bath proprietor, 371</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hull, England, 7, 8, 10</P>
023.sgm:<P>Human life, disregard for, 31</P>
023.sgm:<P>Humber Docks, 8</P>
023.sgm:<P>Humbert, Augustus, 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Humphreys, Frank, 601</P>
023.sgm:<P>Humphreys, J. F., 589</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hunsaker, W. J., 469</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hunsicker, John G., 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hunt, Sumner P., 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hunt, W. S., 619</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hunter, Edward, 35</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hunter, Jesse, 115, 340</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hunter, Morton C., 397</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hunting grounds, 73</P>
023.sgm:<P>Huntington, Collis P., 324, 440, 468, 502</P>
023.sgm:<P>Huntington, Henry E., 232, 515, 620, 631, 632; -- Building, 515, 620; -- Purchase, 69; -- Hotel</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hutton, Aurelius W., 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hydrophobia, 325</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hyde, E. W., 440</P>
023.sgm:<P>Hydrants, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>I</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ice, 233, 247, 370; first --, 191; formed here, 381; -- house, 247, 370; -- machine, first, 427;--wagon, 370</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ice cream, first, 191, 395; venders, 391, 629</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ice Water Convention, 13<LB><HI REND="italics">Icerya purchasi</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Icicles, 525</P>
023.sgm:<P>Idaho, 351</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ide, Clarence Edward, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ihmsen, Maximilian F., 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Illich, Jerry, 513</P>
023.sgm:<P>Illinois, 576</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Illinois,</HI>
023.sgm: steamer, 14<LB><HI REND="italics">Imprenta</HI>
023.sgm:, 94<LB><HI REND="italics">Independence,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Indian Wells, 387, 414</P>
023.sgm:<P>Indiana, 576 --, Colony, 412, 447, 481</P>
023.sgm:<P>Indians, 25, 35, 42, 47, 62, 82, 89, 95, 105, 106, 123, 124, 126, 131, 134, 165, 169, 182, 202, 203, 217, 218, 227, 228, 248, 253, 259, 261, 262, 266, 275, 277, 281, 285, 286, 317, 322, 330, 352, 415, 429, 430, 431, 448, 519, 528, 530, 542, 553, 604; Polonia, 253; -- agents, 143, 168; -- dances of, 278; fire signals, 415; Apache --, 431, 541; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>684</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>667</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Ingersoll, Luther, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Institute, Sisters', 290</P>
023.sgm:<P>Institute, Teachers', 389</P>
023.sgm:<P>Insurance, 120, 223, 389, 516</P>
023.sgm:<P>Interstate Commerce Commission, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Inyo County, 386, 521</P>
023.sgm:<P>Iowa, 576</P>
023.sgm:<P>Iron buildings, corrugated, 120, 133, 190<LB><HI REND="italics">Ironsides,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Irrigation, 115, 213, 215, 218, 329</P>
023.sgm:<P>Irving party, 46, 175, 190</P>
023.sgm:<P>Irving, Washington, 65</P>
023.sgm:<P>Isthmuses, the, and Isthmian travel, 15, 38, 48, 201, 232, 315</P>
023.sgm:<P>Italian Benevolent Society, 553</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ivanhoe, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>J</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jackson, Andrew, 254</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jackson, Helen Hunt ( <HI REND="italics">H. H</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Jackson, John E., 404</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jackson, R. W., 261</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jackson, Simon, 150</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jackson Street, 293</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jackstones, 103</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacobi, A., 28</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacobs, Lewis, 151</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacoby, Abraham, 287, 606; -- Bros., 287</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacoby, Charles, 287</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacoby, Conrad, 230, 465, 540</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacoby, Herman, 287</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacoby, Lesser, 287</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacoby, Morris, 287</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacoby, Nathan, 286</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jacoby, Philo, 465</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jail, old, 215, 286, 511, 530</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jail Street, 36</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jamaica, 14</P>
023.sgm:<P>James, Collector, 341</P>
023.sgm:<P>James, George Wharton, 588</P>
023.sgm:<P>Janeiro, Rio de, 123</P>
023.sgm:<P>Japanese at the Centennial, 497</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jazynsky, Louis, 212, 219</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jefferson, D., 396</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jelinek, Mrs. A., 623</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jenkins, Charles Meyers, 94, 295</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jenkins, William W., 76</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jenny Lind Bakery, 77, 191</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jerkies, 375</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jerky, 25</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jess, Stoddard, 473, 638, 642, 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jevne, Hans, 76, 550, 606, 638</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jewish Cemetery, 104, 122, 396</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jewish Orphans Home of Southern California, 643</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jewish reformed ritual, 314</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jewish services, 222, 314, 608, 618</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jewish synagogue, first, 314</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jewish temple, 608</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jewish women, 104, 409,432, 535, 599, 644</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jews, threat to drive out the, 342</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jinks, Captain, 278</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Adelaida, 61</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Albert, 455</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Andrew, 361</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Bridget, 28</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Captain, 376</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Charles R., 62, 249, 255; Mrs. --, 255; -- &amp; Allanson, 62, 151</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Dick, 82</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, E. P., 378, 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Hiram, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, J. A., 91</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, James (Santiago), 53 61, 279; Mrs. --, 38</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Joseph H., 622</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Margarita, 53</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Micajah D., 488</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, Milbank, 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnson, O. T., 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnston, A. J., 428</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnston, Albert Sidney, 107, 294, 316, 337; Mrs. --, 316, 321, 337</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnston, Albert Sidney, Jr., 320</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnston, Hancock M., 322; Mrs. --, 50</P>
023.sgm:<P>Johnston, William Preston, 295</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jolly, Hi, 222</P>
023.sgm:<P>Joly, Joseph, 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, C. W., xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, Chloe P., 533</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, Clara M., 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, Eleanor Brodie, xv</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, E. W., 589, 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, G. M., 603</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, John, 65, 342, 353, 356, 366, 383, 427, 432; Mrs. --, 65, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, John H., 85, 86; Mrs. (Carrie M.) --, 85, 542, 648</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, John P., 181, 479, 485 ff., 521, 586</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, John T., 105</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, M. G., 65, 545</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones, Wilson W., 35, 207</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones Block, 536</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jones's Corral, 455</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jordan Bros., 549<LB><HI REND="italics">Jota</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Joughlin, Andrew, 357</P>
023.sgm:<P>Joyce, W. H., 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Juan, Cojo, 238</P>
023.sgm:<P>Judd, Henderson, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Judges of the Plains, 182, 183, 242</P>
023.sgm:<P>Judson &amp; Belshaw, 385 ff.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Juez de Paz, 99<LB><HI REND="italics">Julius C&aelig;sar,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Jumper, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Juneau, 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Junge, Adolph (Adolf), 290, 367</P>
023.sgm:<P>Junta Patriotica, 338</P>
023.sgm:<P>Jurupa <HI REND="italics"> rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>K</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kahn, John, 72, 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kahn, Zadoc and Mme., 450</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kaiser, Charles, 273</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kalamazoo, Mich., 106</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kalisher, W., 61; Mrs. --, 409; -- &amp; Wartenberg, 61, 409<LB><HI REND="italics">Kalorama,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Kane, Mr., 337</P>
023.sgm:<P>Katz, B., 405; Mrs. --, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kays, James C., 469, 545, 618</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kearney, Phil., 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kearny, S. W., 206, 255</P>
023.sgm:<P>Keller, M., 35, 128, 200,  292, 293, 346, 436, 446, 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Keller's Building, 94</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kellogg, D. P., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kellogg &amp; Co., 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kelly, Dan, 413</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kenealy, John, 529</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kercheval, Albert Fenner, 428, 574; -- Tract, 574</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kerckhoff, George, 515</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kerckhoff, William G., 515, 545; -- Building, 515</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kerckhoff, Mr., 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kerlin, Fred E., 320</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kern, Paul, 481</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kern County, 188, 272, 426, 437</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kern River, 148, 149, 317</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kerosene, 346</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kewen, A. L., 54</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>685</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>668</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Kewen, Edward J. C., 45, 54, 55, 170, 185, 249, 285, 318, 351, 356, 441; Mrs. --, 185</P>
023.sgm:<P>Keyes, C. G., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Keysor, E. F., 466, 470; -- &amp; Morgan, 470</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kimball, C. H., 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kimball, Cyrus, 348</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kimball, Nathan, 447</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kimberly, Martin M., 318</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kimble, L., 619</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kindergarten, 356, 566</P>
023.sgm:<P>King, Andrew J., 89, 91, 246, 250, 315, 344, 347, 350, 366, 380, 397, 426, 433, 443, 446; Mrs. --, 89, 315; -- &amp; Co., 350; -- &amp; Waite, 380</P>
023.sgm:<P>King, Frank, 347</P>
023.sgm:<P>King, F. W., 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>King, Henry, 358</P>
023.sgm:<P>King, Houston, 347</P>
023.sgm:<P>King, John, 245, 316, 358, 380</P>
023.sgm:<P>King, Samuel, 91, 92</P>
023.sgm:<P>King, Thomas, 210</P>
023.sgm:<P>King, William R., 121</P>
023.sgm:<P>King-Carlisle duel, 347 ff.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kingston, Tulare Co., 453<LB><HI REND="italics">Kinneloa</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Kinney, Abbot, 519, 530, 566, 595, 603, 606, 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kip, William Ingraham, 340</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kirkland Valley, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>Klokke, E. F., C., 606<LB><HI REND="italics">Kn&auml;ckebrod,</HI>
023.sgm: 5<LB><HI REND="italics">Kneipe,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Knight, William H., 612</P>
023.sgm:<P>Knights Commander, Order of, 542</P>
023.sgm:<P>Knowles, Charles, 455</P>
023.sgm:<P>Knowlton, Charles, 396, 455, 469</P>
023.sgm:<P>Knowlton, Willis T., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Koebele, Albert, 544</P>
023.sgm:<P>Koepfli, J. O., 544, 606, 619, 626, 634, 635, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kohler, F. D., 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kohler, G. Charles, 212, 213; -- &amp; Fr&ouml;hling, 213</P>
023.sgm:<P>Koll, Frederick W., 251, 275</P>
023.sgm:<P>Koster, John, 368</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kragevsky, Miguel, 206</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kremer, Campbell &amp; Co., 280</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kremer, Maurice, 39, 71, 72, 189, 191, 201, 260, 280, 287, 334, 347, 355, 365, 400, 415, 419, 636; Mrs. -- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Kress, George H., 641</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kuhn, Henry, 258</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kuhrts, Jacob, 228, 229, 409, 446, 552, 585, 606; Mrs. --, 229, 527</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ku-Klux Klan, 516</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kurtz, Carl, 367, 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kurtz, Joseph, 230, 367, 409, 434, 526, 540, 548, 587, 593, 649</P>
023.sgm:<P>Kuster, Edward G., 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>L</P>
023.sgm:<P>Labatt Bros., 69</P>
023.sgm:<P>Laborie, Antoine, 64</P>
023.sgm:<P>Labrador, 398</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lacey, Sidney, 377, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lachenais, A. M. G., 40, 303, 419</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lacy, Richard H., 377; -- Manufacturing Co., 377</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lacy, William, 377, 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lacy, William, Jr., 377</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ladies, escorting of, 184; -- at political gatherings, 282</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ladybird, 544</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ladybug, 544</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lafayette Hotel, 176, 251, 275, 321, 384, 389, 396, 397, 469</P>
023.sgm:<P>La Fetra, Milton H., 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lafoon, Charles, 366</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lager beer, first, 40</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lamanda Park, 578</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lambourn, Fred, 87, 471</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lamps, coal oil, 34</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lamson, George F., 155</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lamson, Gertrude, 155</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lamson, S. F., 338</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lancaro, B. H., 179</P>
023.sgm:<P>Land bet on races, 161</P>
023.sgm:<P>Land Commission, 238</P>
023.sgm:<P>Land Commissioners, Board of, 146, 509</P>
023.sgm:<P>Landmarks Club, 542</P>
023.sgm:<P>Land Office, Register of, 143, 214</P>
023.sgm:<P>Land values, unscientific consideration of (see under Property)</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Land of Sunshine,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Land patents, 509</P>
023.sgm:<P>Land syndicates in the Boom, 572</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lander, James H., 45, 53, 339, 348; Mrs. --, 38, 53</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lane, the, 394</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lane, Joseph, 282</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lane's Crossing, 281</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lanes, 25, 112, 126, 198, 394, 485, 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lanfranco Block, new, 371; --, old, 71, 231, 367, 369, 465, 550; the --, hotel, 369</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lanfranco, Juan T., 70, 71, 216, 369, 433; Mrs. --, 71, 181, 508</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lanfranco, Mateo, 70, 216</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lanfranco, Petra Pilar, 135</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lang, Gustav J., 442</P>
023.sgm:<P>Langenberger, A. and Mrs. 212</P>
023.sgm:<P>Langs, confusion as 10, 442; Lang, John, No. 1, 274, 442; --, No. 2, 442, 447; --`s Station, 387, 447, 496, 498</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lankershim, Isaac, 381, 421, 493; -- Ranch, 578</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lankershim, J. B., 381, 584, 606; Mrs.--, 65; -- Block, 192</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lanterns, candle, camphine, coal oil, 34</P>
023.sgm:<P>Largo, Juan, 169</P>
023.sgm:<P>Larkin, Thomas O., American Consul, 108</P>
023.sgm:<P>La Rue, John, 27 ff., 61</P>
023.sgm:<P>Larrabee, Charles H., 376, 441</P>
023.sgm:<P>Larronde, Pedro, 311</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lasker, Edward, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lasky, L., 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lasso, 243</P>
023.sgm:<P>Latham, Milton S., 109, 282, 285; Camp --, 299; Fort --, 321</P>
023.sgm:<P>Latterday Saints, 345</P>
023.sgm:<P>Laubheim, Samuel, 290</P>
023.sgm:<P>Laughlin, Homer, 201; -- Building, 201, 608, 625, 638; -- Annex, 593</P>
023.sgm:<P>Laughlin, Richard, 287</P>
023.sgm:<P>Laundries, first, 78, 298, 310<LB><HI REND="italics">Laura Bevan</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Laurel Tract, 442</P>
023.sgm:<P>Laurence, H. F., 385</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lauth, Philip, 230</P>
023.sgm:<P>Laventhal, Elias, 146, 189</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lawler, Oscar, 624; Mrs. --, 624</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lawlor, W. B., 373, 443; -- Institute, 373</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lawyers, 45 ff.; --`, fees, 47; --' Block, 596</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lazard, Abe, 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lazard, E. M., 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lazard Fr&egrave;res, 439, 522, 540</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lazard, Max, 89</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lazard, Solomon, 65, 71, 89, 120, 123, 133, 163, 224, 287, 290, 347, 365, 366, 383, 449, 489, 503, 504, 508, 618, 637; Mrs. --, 224, 253, 347, 508, 637;--& Co., 132, 171, 229, 355, 362, 400, 452; -- &amp; Kremer, 71, 189; -- &amp; Wolfskill, 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lazarowich, Joe, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lazarus, P., 230, 365; Mrs. --, 365; -- Stationery Co., 365</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lea, Homer, 644</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lead mines, 385, 388</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lechler, George and Mrs., 235</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>686</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>669</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Leck, Henry v. d. and Mrs., 64</P>
023.sgm:<P>Leck, Lorenxo, 64, 78, 259, 304, 409; Mrs. --, 304, 317; --`s Hall, 314</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lecouvreur, Frank, 149, 152, 230, 319, 344, 403, 411; Mrs. --, 411</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lectures, public, 190, 623</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ledger, reflections caused by an old, 219</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ledyard, Captain, 338</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lee, Bradner W., 475, 516, 517</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lee, Bradner W., Jr., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lee, Charles, 453</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lee, John D., 217</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lee, John P., 325</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lee, Robert Edward, 328, 353</P>
023.sgm:<P>Leech, William P., 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Leeds, England, 276</P>
023.sgm:<P>Leggings, leather, 159</P>
023.sgm:<P>Legislature appealed to, 207</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lehman, Andrew, 86</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lehman, George, 192, 193, 272, 273, 417, 463, 522 ff.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Leiter, Levi Z., 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Leiter, Mary Victoria, 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lelande, H. J., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lelong, Joseph, 77</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lemberg, Fred, 351</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lemons, and lemon-culture, 211, 212, 412</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lemon, Frank, 476</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lemon, William, 476</P>
023.sgm:<P>Le M&eacute;snager, George, 541</P>
023.sgm:<P>Le Moyne, Francis Julius, 567</P>
023.sgm:<P>Leon, Ralph, 481</P>
023.sgm:<P>Leonis, Miguel, 310</P>
023.sgm:<P>Le Sage, Gideon, 470</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lessen, 3</P>
023.sgm:<P>Letter boxes, 94, 410</P>
023.sgm:<P>Letter, Jacob, 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Letts, Arthur, 613</P>
023.sgm:<P>Levering, Noah, 540</P>
023.sgm:<P>Levy, E. J., 601</P>
023.sgm:<P>Levy, Isaac, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Levy, Michael, 372; -- &amp; Co., 372; -- Coblentz, 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lewin, Louis and Mrs. 365; -- Co., Louis, 365</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lewis, David, 91; and Mrs., 93</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lewis, John A., 93; --, McElroy &amp; Rand, 93<LB><HI REND="italics">Lewis Perry,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Lewis, S. B., 589, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lewis, Thomas A., 589</P>
023.sgm:<P>Libby Prison, 295</P>
023.sgm:<P>Libraries, loan, 428</P>
023.sgm:<P>Library Association, Los Angeles, 443</P>
023.sgm:<P>Library, Los Angeles, 257, 433, 513, 542, 593, 638; --, first, 256; transferred to the City, 513</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lichtenberger, H., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lichtenberger, Louis, 153, 154, 428</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lick, James, 71, 216, 568</P>
023.sgm:<P>Liebre, Rancho de la, 195<LB><HI REND="italics">Lied von der Glocke, das,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Life insurance, 319<LB><HI REND="italics">Life and Sport in the Open,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Lighthouses, first here, 473; --, at Catalina, 319</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lighting of streets and buildings, 34, 349, 408, 410,</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lightner, Isaac, 344</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lily Langtry Tract, 575</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lincoln, Abraham, 142, 236, 238, 249, 264, 289, 297, 307, 315, 330, 334, 337, 338, 339, 399, 595; vote in Los Angeles, 282</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lindley, Albert, 473</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lindley, Henry, 473</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lindley, Ida B., 473</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lindley, Milton, 473</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lindley Walter, 322, 473, 589, 641</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lindskow, 404</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lindville, 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lips, Charles C., 356, 409, 449, 339</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lips, Walter, 356; --, Craique &amp; Co., 356</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lissner, Meyer, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Little, W.H., 206, 207</P>
023.sgm:<P>Littlefield, J. C., 444</P>
023.sgm:<P>Little Lake, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Liverpool, England, 8, 9, 10, 381, 447, 493</P>
023.sgm:<P>Livery stables, 377, 383, 389, 429</P>
023.sgm:<P>Livingstone, David, 211</P>
023.sgm:<P>Llewellyn, David, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Llewellyn, Llewellyn J., 559; -- Iron Works, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Llewellyn, Reese, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Llewellvn, William, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lloyd, Reuben, 474</P>
023.sgm:<P>Locomotives (see under Railroads)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lock-boxes, postal, 372</P>
023.sgm:<P>Locust trees, black, 162, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>Loeb, Edwin J., xv., 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Loeb, Joseph P., xv., 355, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Loeb, Leon, 355, 383, 540, 606; Mrs. --, 355, 636</P>
023.sgm:<P>Loebau, 1, 5, 7, 12, 360, 361, 564, 621</P>
023.sgm:<P>Loew, Jacob, 87, 367, 425; Mrs. --, 367</P>
023.sgm:<P>Loewenstein, Emanuel, 75</P>
023.sgm:<P>Loewenstein, Hillard, 75, 233; Mrs. --, 75</P>
023.sgm:<P>Loewenthal, Max, 75</P>
023.sgm:<P>Logan, honey dealer, 127</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lomas de Santiago <HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>London, 360, 407</P>
023.sgm:<P>London &amp; San Francisco Bank, 412</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lone Pine, 375</P>
023.sgm:<P>Long Beach, 166, 167, 374, 519, 580, 601, 620; -- disaster, 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Longevity, 493, 528, 649</P>
023.sgm:<P>Longfellow, Henry W., 624</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lopez, bandit, 209</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lord, Isaac W., 377, 449, 489, 505, 563, 376</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lordsburg, 576, 578</P>
023.sgm:<P>Loricke, E. M., 462</P>
023.sgm:<P>Loring, Frederick, 430, 431</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles, 6, xv., 22 ff, 36, 52, 205, 231, 240, 258, 313, 338, 348, 349, 365, 379, 388, 400, 402, 417, 440 ff., 445, 504, 510 528, 539, 541, 557, 598, 614, 618, 626, 640, 642, 643; extension of hospitality, 398, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles advertised at the Centennial, 483, 498</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles and consolidation with harbor towns, 638<LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles and Environs,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles and the Civil War, 294, 299ff, 305, 308, 311, 316, 318, 321, 323, 326, 328, 330, 333, 334, 337 ff, 350, 353, 371</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles and the Southern Pacific Railroad problem, 440 ff, 489, 502 ff</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles as market for the interior, 385; as market for whalers, 308</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles charity, criticism of, 431</P>
023.sgm:<P> Los Angeles Coffee Saloon, 279</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles College, 566</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles College Clinical Association, 367</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles County, 25, 35, 92, 188, 426; organization of, 35; ownership of, 166: proposed divisions of, 406, 593; reward unpaid, 425<LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles County, An Historical Sketch of,</HI>
023.sgm: 365, 501<LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles County, History of,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles County Bank, 466</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles County Homeopathic Medical Society, 548</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles County Railroad, 392</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Court House, adobe, 40, 256; Temple --, 67, 294 339, 441, 449; present --, 301, 452</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Crematory Society, 567</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles, early views of, 364</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Furniture Co., 378</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Gas Co., 489</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Guards, 499</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Harbor, 545, 637, 642; -- Board, 642; -- dredging, 426; proposed harbors, 581. (See <HI REND="italics">Harbor Contest</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, History of,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles High School, 301, 419, 452, 532; first -- student to enter State Univeisity, 536</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Infirmary, 210</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Medical Society, 370</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Pacific Railroad Co., 613</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles, panoramic views of, 364</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Produce Exchange, 537</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Rifleros, 499</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles River, 116, 258, 289, 398, 412;--.right to water of, 541</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Saddlery Co., 82</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Savings Bank, 358</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Soap Co., 470</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Social Club, 383, 500</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Soda Water Works, 363<LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles:</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Street, 30, 288, 383, 400, 408, 433, 472, 510</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Terminal Railroad, 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Theater, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles Water Co., 366, 377, 384, 389, 418, 446, 550, 534, 617</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles &amp; Independence Railroad, 485, 487, 488, 521, 569; -- depot, 485</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles &amp; San Gabriel Valley Railroad, 549, 585</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro Railroad, 295, 318, 321, 334, 353, 354, 363, 370, 375, 380, 383, 384, 393, 396, 404, 408, 430, 440, 441, 452, 506, 521; --, depot, (later owned by the Southern Pacific) 107, 383, 393, 400, 401, 403; first train into Los Angeles, 401; first regular trains, 403; first midnight train, 402; first popular excursion, 402</P>
023.sgm:<P>Los Angeles &amp; Truxton Railroad, 460</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lothian, I. A., 619, 635</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lott, A. E., 386</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lotteries, land sales by, 573</P>
023.sgm:<P>Louis French, 369</P>
023.sgm:<P>Louis Vielle (Louis <HI REND="italics"> Gordo</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Louisiana Coffee Saloon, 279</P>
023.sgm:<P>Love, Harry, 58</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lover's Lane, 198</P>
023.sgm:<P>Low, Frederick, F., 323, 338</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lowe, Ella Housefield, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lowe, T. S. C., 561, 604; -- Railroad, Mount, 604; -- Astronomical Observatory, 604</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lowe, W. W., 521</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lowenthal, Henry, 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lucky, W. T., 389, 452</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lugo, Ant&oacute;nio Mar&iacute;a, and the Lugo family, 35, 47, 74, 102, 135, 159, 167, 168, 174, 183, 200, 214, 253, 263, 376</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lugo, Felipe, 220, 242</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lugo, Jos&eacute; del Carmen, 87, 174</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lugo, Mar&iacute;a, 87, 99, 174</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lugo, Jos&eacute; Ygn&aacute;cio, 171, 263</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lugo, Magdalena, 171</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lugo, Vicente, 87, 99, 102, 174</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lugo, Ygn&aacute;cio, 74, 158, 174</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lulea, 4</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lumber-famine, 380</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lumber, from San Bernardino, 88; -- yards, 81, 88, 274, 380</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lummis, Charles F., 232, 364, 541 ff., 593, 607, 626, 638, 646, 647, 648; personality, 542; on the memoirs of Harris Newmark, xii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lummis, M. Dorothea, 548</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">L'Union Nouvelte,</HI>
023.sgm: 516<LB><HI REND="italics">Lusitania,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Last, C. F. A., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lynch, Joseph D., 516, 556, 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lynchings: Brown, 140, Alvitre, 147; Flores, 209; Daniel, 223; Cota, 304; Daimwood, 324; wholesale, 325; Cerradel, 326; Wilkins, 327; Lachenais, 420; Chinese, 30, 433; --, defense of, 141; --, El Monte boys at, 91, 324, 471</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lyons, Cy, 194, 195; --`s Station, 194</P>
023.sgm:<P>Lyons, Sanford, 194</P>
023.sgm:<P>M</P>
023.sgm:<P>Macaulay, Thomas Babington, xi</P>
023.sgm:<P>MacGowan, Granville, 201</P>
023.sgm:<P>McArthur, Anna, 107</P>
023.sgm:<P>McBride, James, 404</P>
023.sgm:<P>McConnell, J. R., 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>McCoy, Frank, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>McCracken, T. W., 416</P>
023.sgm:<P>McCrea, John, 404</P>
023.sgm:<P>McCrellish, Frederick J., 270, 271, 283 ff.; -- &amp; Co., 270</P>
023.sgm:<P>McCullough, J. G., 341</P>
023.sgm:<P>McDonald, Edward N., 218; -- Block, 206, 218, 545</P>
023.sgm:<P>McDonald, N. A., 404</P>
023.sgm:<P>McDougal, F. A. and Mrs., 168, 383</P>
023.sgm:<P>McDowell, Hugh, 617</P>
023.sgm:<P>McDowell, Irwin, 341</P>
023.sgm:<P>McElroy, John, 93</P>
023.sgm:<P>McFadden, James, 506</P>
023.sgm:<P>McFadden, P., 366</P>
023.sgm:<P>McFadden, William, 419</P>
023.sgm:<P>McFarland, Albert, 556</P>
023.sgm:<P>McFarland, James P., 107, 109; -- &amp; Downey, 109</P>
023.sgm:<P>McGarry Tract, 574</P>
023.sgm:<P>McGarvin, D. C., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>McGinnis, Ed., 137</P>
023.sgm:<P>McGroarty, John S., 102</P>
023.sgm:<P>McGuire, Thomas, 422</P>
023.sgm:<P>McKee, H. S., 625</P>
023.sgm:<P>McKee, William, 107, 163, 321, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>McKinley, William, 616, 618</P>
023.sgm:<P>McKinney, Preston, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>McLain, George P., 446; -- &amp; Lehman, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>McLellan, Bryce, 464, 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>McLellan, George F., 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>McLellan, H., 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>McLoughlin, Ben, 153</P>
023.sgm:<P>McMullen's Station, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>Machado, Augustin, 63, 179</P>
023.sgm:<P>Machado, Susana, 63</P>
023.sgm:<P>Machado, Ygn&aacute;cio, 179</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Machete</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Mackey, A. F., 587</P>
023.sgm:<P>Maclay, Charles, 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>Macniel, Hugh Livingston, 561</P>
023.sgm:<P>Macy, Lucinda, 106</P>
023.sgm:<P>Macy, Obed, 26, 91, 92, 150, 297; -- Street, 92, 198, 412</P>
023.sgm:<P>Macy, Oscar, 91, 92, 210, 216, 297</P>
023.sgm:<P>Madigan, Eliza, 321, 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Madigan, Mike, 383; -- lot, 396</P>
023.sgm:<P>Madox, A., 91</P>
023.sgm:<P>Madras, 547</P>
023.sgm:<P>Magic performances, 318</P>
023.sgm:<P>Magruder, John B., 224</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mahler, first Jewish child to die here, 104</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mahlstedt, Mrs. D., 527</P>
023.sgm:<P>Maier, Simon, 69, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mail, dead-letter, 267; --, disturbed, 291; --, sent by express company, 374, 375; Overland --, 256, 259; uncertain arrival of --, 235, 374; -- routes, 361; improvement in despatch of --, 264; small amount of -- business, 431; introduction of money-orders by --, 431; -- by stages, 234, 373, 374</P>
023.sgm:<P>Main Street, 31, 32, 73, 112, 125, 158, 335, 472, 518, 519, 535, 543, 561, 573, 584</P>
023.sgm:<P>Main Street Savings Bank, 561</P>
023.sgm:<P>Main Street &amp; Agricultural Park Railway Co., 389, 462</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>687</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>671</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Maine,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Mason Dor&eacute;e, 513</P>
023.sgm:<P>Major, L. A., 516</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mallard, Augusta, 361</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mallard, Joseph Stillman, 33, 36, 89, 205, 361, 364, 411; Mrs. --, 46; -- Street, 36</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mallard, Mary, 411</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mallard, Walter, 89</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mallory, Stephen Russell, 467</P>
023.sgm:<P>Maloney, Richard, 239</P>
023.sgm:<P>Manilla, 365</P>
023.sgm:<P>Manning, Celeste, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Manning, Joe, 464</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mansfield, John, 541, 587, 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>Manufacturers' Association, 611</P>
023.sgm:<P>Marble-cutter, first, 406</P>
023.sgm:<P>Marchessault, Damien, 132, 241, 258, 350, 366</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mariguana, 14</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mariposa, 148</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mariposa, La, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mariposa Big Trees, 272</P>
023.sgm:<P>Market House, Temple, 240, 241, 258, 263, 294</P>
023.sgm:<P>Markham, Henry Harrison, 378, 517, 598</P>
023.sgm:<P>Marks, Baruch, 75; -- &amp; Co., B., 75</P>
023.sgm:<P>Marriages, native, 136</P>
023.sgm:<P>Marsh, William, 149</P>
023.sgm:<P>Marshall &amp; Henderson, 537</P>
023.sgm:<P>Marshals, U. S., 315, 543</P>
023.sgm:<P>Martial law, 207</P>
023.sgm:<P>Martin &amp; Co., E., 356</P>
023.sgm:<P>Martin, Jack, 268</P>
023.sgm:<P>Martin, Mrs. Peter, 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Martin, W. H., 237</P>
023.sgm:<P>Martinez, Nicol&aacute;s, 391</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mascarel, Jos&eacute;, 62, 63, 65, 339, 341, 423, 596; -- &amp; Barri, 189</P>
023.sgm:<P>Masonic Temple, San Francisco, laying of corner-stone, 270</P>
023.sgm:<P>Masons, F. &amp; A., 156, 208, 317, 371, 624; Lodge No. 42, 26, 105, 118, 203</P>
023.sgm:<P>Massachusetts Cavalry, Second, 295</P>
023.sgm:<P>Matches, Swedish, 120</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mathes, S. J., 482</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mathews, John R., 537</P>
023.sgm:<P>Maur&iacute;cio, Maurice, 191</P>
023.sgm:<P>Maximilian, Emperor, 224, 359</P>
023.sgm:<P>Maxwell, George W., 567</P>
023.sgm:<P>Maxwell, Walter S., 71, 537, 568; Mrs.--, 71</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mayerhofer, Josephine, 191</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mayors of Los Angeles, 32, 33, 36, 50, 100, 105, 115, 147, 218, 288, 302, 372, 379, 388, 398, 399, 445, 467, 556, 561, 566, 613, 616, 638, 639, 642; Mayor as Justice of Peace, 524</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mazatl&aacute;n, 23, 27</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meat-packers, 482</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meat, price affected by cold, 381</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mechanics' Institute, 190</P>
023.sgm:<P>Medical aid, visiting Europe for, 164</P>
023.sgm:<P>Medical colleges, Los Angeles, 280, 593; first medical school, 348<LB><HI REND="italics">Medical Profession of Southern California, History of the,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Medicines, early, 110</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meiggs, Harry, 21</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mellus, Francis, 35, 36, 39, 61, 87, 105, 119, 132, 137, 227, 256, 265, 288; Mrs. --, 61, 227</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mellus, Henry, 39, 85, 132, 133, 226, 227, 256, 268, 284, 288; Mrs. --, 85, 233, 227; -- &amp; Howard, 61</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mellus, James J., 61, 537, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mellus'Row, 60, 61, 71, 75, 248, 309, 313, 351, 472</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mendell, George H., 618</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mercantile Place, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>Merced Ranch, 167, 520</P>
023.sgm:<P>Merchandise, bet on races, 161; --, early prices of, 73</P>
023.sgm:<P>Merchandising, extravagant stories about, 38</P>
023.sgm:<P>Merchants' Association, 605, 611</P>
023.sgm:<P>Merchants and Manufacturers' Association, 611, 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Merchants, small stocks of, 311; --, tricks of, 131, 177</P>
023.sgm:<P>Merrymaking, 135<LB><HI REND="italics">Mesa,</HI>
023.sgm: 322<LB><HI REND="italics">Mescal,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Mesmer, Joseph, 244, 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mesmer, Louis, 191, 244, 303, 380, 523, 581, 596</P>
023.sgm:<P>Messer, Kiln, 123, 200, 274, 275, 410; Mrs. --, 442</P>
023.sgm:<P>Methodists, 103, 340, 516</P>
023.sgm:<P>Metlakahtla, 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Metropolitan Building, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mexican War, 108, 269; -- Veterans, 138, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mexicans, 89, 322, 330, 333; <HI REND="italics">cuisine</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Mexico, 397; peace proclamation of, 400</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mexico, City of, 57, 546</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyberg, Max, 605, 606, 639; -- Bros., 611</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyberg, Mrs. Morris, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyer, Constant, 452</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyer, Edgar J., 644</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyer, Eugene, 68, 198, 237, 290, 355, 366, 377, 381, 383, 400, 450, 452, 464, 466, 480, 499, 523, 540, 644; Mrs. --, 196, 290, 377, 564, 637, 644; -- &amp; Co., Eugene, 452, 643</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyer, Isaac A., 309; -- &amp; Breslauer, 309</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyer, J. A., 297</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyer, Louisa, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyer, Mendel, 233, 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyer, Samuel, 26, 75, 150, 194, 233, 309, 383; Mrs. --, 75</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meyer &amp; Breslauer, 309</P>
023.sgm:<P>Meying, William, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Michaels, M., 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Micheltorena, Manuel 92, 178</P>
023.sgm:<P>Midwinter Fair, San Francisco, 605<LB><HI REND="italics">Mikado</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Miles, Charles E., 446, 454, 457</P>
023.sgm:<P>Miles, Nelson A., 581, 586, 587</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mllitary academy, first, 622; -- bands, 296, 394, 398, 579; -- posts, Los Angeles trade with, 265</P>
023.sgm:<P>Milk, early peddling of, 172</P>
023.sgm:<P>Miller, marble cutter, 406</P>
023.sgm:<P>Miller, John M., 543</P>
023.sgm:<P>Miller &amp; Lux, 458</P>
023.sgm:<P>Milliner's advertisement, 492</P>
023.sgm:<P>Millington, S. J., 427</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mills and millers, 54, 87, 213, 218, 367, 381, 470, 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>Millspaugh, Jesse F., 532</P>
023.sgm:<P>Milner, John, 404, 452, 568; Mrs. --, 527</P>
023.sgm:<P>Miner, Randolph Huntington, 473, 612; Mrs. __, 473</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mining and miners, 17, 94, 108, 123, 126, 148, 249, 228, 268, 271, 318, 325, 385 ff., 474, 475, 476, 477</P>
023.sgm:<P>Minstrels, 186</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mint Valley, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>Minting, early, 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Miron, Juan Mar&iacute;a, 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Miron, Juana, 202<LB><HI REND="italics">Mirror</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Mission Dolores, 276</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mission Fathers, 88, 92, 101, 115, 199</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mission Inn, Frank Miller's, 625</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mission Play, 102</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mission Road, 42, 533</P>
023.sgm:<P>Missions, (see under Spanish Missions)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mitchell, Charles E., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mitchell, Henry Milner, 417, 455, 457, 488, 499; --, shot by mistake, 517; Mrs. --, 517</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>688</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>672</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Mitchell, John S., 492</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mix, W. A., 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mob, psychology of the, 324</P>
023.sgm:<P>Modjeska, Helena, 494, 495; -- Avenue, 495</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moerenhaut, Jacob A., 254, 317, 501</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moffatt &amp; Co., 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moffitt, A. B., 521</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mohave, County, Arizona, 92<LB><HI REND="italics">Mohongo,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Moiso, Jim, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mojave, desert, 317; Fort --, 281; --, town of, 386, 387<LB><HI REND="italics">Molino, El,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Mondonville, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Money, exchange with San Francisco, 129; expressing -- as coin to San Francisco, 129; hoarding -- in bags, 129; -- orders, first foreign, 431</P>
023.sgm:<P>Monk, Hank, 429</P>
023.sgm:<P>Monroe, William N., 563</P>
023.sgm:<P>Monrovia, 467, 563, 576, 578, 620</P>
023.sgm:<P>Montana, 304, 351</P>
023.sgm:<P>Monte, El, 71, 88, 90, 91, 92, 107, 150, 196, 207, 234, 251, 261, 317, 324, 325, 354, 426, 452, 471</P>
023.sgm:<P>Montebello, 535</P>
023.sgm:<P>Monterey, 22, 47, 254, 255, 279, 520<LB><HI REND="italics">Monterey,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Monte Vista, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Montgomery Saloon, 31, 209, 282</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moody, Dwight L., 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moore, C. E., 642</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moore, Maggie, 381</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moore, Walter S., 71, 464, 587; Mrs. --, 71</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moore, William, 319</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moran, John, 363</P>
023.sgm:<P>More, Ira, 532, 604</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moreno, bankrupt, 68</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moreno, Francisco, 159</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morford, W. E., 476</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morgan, Octavius, 469, 568</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morgan, Cosmo, 465; -- &amp; Newmark, 465</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mormons, 87, 88, 151, 155, 156, 217, 218, 242, 320, 345<LB><HI REND="italics">Morning Call,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Morris, Herman, 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morris, Jacob, 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morris, J. L., 72, 383</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morris, Moritz, 72, 356, 383, 540; -- Bros., 104; -- Vineyard, 104, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morris, shoemaker, 86</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morrison, Murray, 185, 295, 365, 436; Mrs. --, 185, 436</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morsch, Fred, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mortimer, C. White, 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morton, F., 65, 66, 152, 248</P>
023.sgm:<P>Morton, Levi P., 617</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mosher, L. E., 583, 607, 616</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mosquito Gulf, 14</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mott, John G., 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mott, Stephen Hathaway, 82, 366, 472, 534</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mott, Thomas D., 64, 72, 73, 81, 82, 160, 181, 309, 311, 323, 324, 335, 366, 383, 440; Mrs. --, 181, 309; -- Hall, 590; -- Market, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Moulton, Elijah T., 171, 289; Mrs. --, 271</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mountain Meadow Massacre, 106, 217</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mountain travel, difficulty of, 120, 121, 285</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mounted Rifles, Los Angeles, 294</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mud Springs, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mueller, Otto, 518</P>
023.sgm:<P>Muir Glacier, 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mulberry-tree, 390</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mule Springs, 414</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mules, 16, 92, 312; on street railways, 462; mule trains, 187, 312, 385</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mulholland, William, 50, 509, 555</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mullally, Joe, 396; --, Porter &amp; Ayers, 83</P>
023.sgm:<P> Mumus, 125</P>
023.sgm:<P>Municipal and County Adobe, 36, 40, 41, 209, 256, 324, 338, 530</P>
023.sgm:<P>Municipal League, 545, 646</P>
023.sgm:<P>Munk, J. A., 636, 647, 648</P>
023.sgm:<P>Murat, John, 258</P>
023.sgm:<P>"Murchison, Charles F.," 590; -- Letters, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Murders, 31, 35, 46, 58, 139, 190, 206, 303, 304, 323, 324, 326, 327, 330, 340, 418, 424, 430, 432, 470, 512, 629</P>
023.sgm:<P>Murdoch, W. T., 610</P>
023.sgm:<P>Murieta, Joaqu&iacute;n, 58</P>
023.sgm:<P>Murphy, Joe, 381</P>
023.sgm:<P>Murphy, Sheriff, 223</P>
023.sgm:<P>Muscupiabe, 90</P>
023.sgm:<P>Museum of History, Science and Art, 110, 159, 238, 253, 258, 291, 457, 479, 622, 631, 640, 645</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mushet, W. C., 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Music, early, 157, 183, 193, 268, 398; Spanish and Mexican, --, 22, 31; -- teachers, 373; musicians, 183, 213, 214, 412</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mustard, wild, 126</P>
023.sgm:<P>Mutton, 216</P>
023.sgm:<P>Myles, Henry R., 109, 111, 320</P>
023.sgm:<P>N</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nadeau, George A., 304</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nadeau, H., 492</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nadeau, Remi, 304, 385 ff., 421, 513, 534, 558; -- Block, 558; -- Hotel, 385, 513, 518, 534; 587; -- Park, 576, 579; -- Station, 388; <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Napa Valley, 199</P>
023.sgm:<P>Naples, 621</P>
023.sgm:<P>Naples, California, 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nast, Thomas, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Natick House, 63, 77<LB><HI REND="italics">Nation, The</HI>
023.sgm:<P>National Hotel, 396</P>
023.sgm:<P>Natives, na&iuml;ve temperaments of, 162</P>
023.sgm:<P>Naud, Edouard, 202, 288; Mrs. --, 202; --`s Warehouse, 288</P>
023.sgm:<P>Needles, 440</P>
023.sgm:<P>Negroes, 123, 138, 330, 527; negro troops, 330</P>
023.sgm:<P>Negros, Calle de los, 30, 98, 288, 510</P>
023.sgm:<P>Neuendorffer, R. C., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Neumark, West Prussia, 1</P>
023.sgm:<P>Neuner, M. C., 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nevada Bank, San Francisco, 595</P>
023.sgm:<P>New Arlington Hotel, 418, 552</P>
023.sgm:<P>New High Street, 472</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newberry, John R., 551</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newell, Jerry, 83</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newfoundland, storm off, 11</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newhall, Walter S., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newhall, 41, 95, 170, 504</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newman, Edward, 330</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Abraham, son of Joseph Newmark, 538</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Augusta, wife of J. P. Newmark, 163, 191, 240; death of, 611</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark Bros., 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Caroline, daughter of Joseph Newmark , 121, 347</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Edith, daughter of Harris Newmark, 470</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Edward J., son of Joseph Newmark, 121, 376, 624</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Edward J., son of Harris Newmark, 515</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Ella, daughter of Harris Newmark, 517, 533</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Emily, daughter of Harris Newmark, 367</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Estelle, daughter of Harris Newmark, 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark), Esther, mother of Harris Newmark, 1, 2, 3, 7; death of, 360</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Harriet, daughter of Joseph Newmark, 121, 195, 290</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>689</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>673</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Harriet, daughter of J. P. Newmark, 444</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark), Harris, son of Philipp Neumark, birth, 1; boyhood, 2; accompanies father to Sweden, 3, 649; first experience at sea, 3; in Denmark and Sweden, 4; returns to Loebau, 4; becomes shoeblacking apprentice, 4; visits Finland, 5; experience with Russian bigotry, 5; last winter at Loebau, 5; invited by brother, J, P. Newmark, to come to California, 6; leaves Gothenburg for America, 7; forms peculiar acquaintance, 7 ff.; lands at Hull, 8; arrested with fellow-passenger at Liverpool, 9; misses steamer, 9; sails from Liverpool, 10; narrowly escapes shipwreck, 11; arrives at New York, 12; tries peddling--for a day, 13; sails for California <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm: Nicaragua, 14; crosses the Isthmus, 15; adventure on a mule, 16; shares the vicissitudes of the trip with Lieutenant William Tecumseh Sherman, 17; reaches the Pacific, 18; enters the Golden Gate, 19; meets Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark and family, 121; absorbed with early San Francisco life, 19 ff.; continues sea-trip to Southern California, 22; disembarks at San Pedro, 22; meets Phineas Banning, 23; comes by stage to Los Angeles, 24; amazed at first sight of Indians, squirrels and <HI REND="italics"> carne seca,</HI>
023.sgm: 25; reunion with brother, 26; clerks for brother, 27; makes rounds of Los Angeles gaming dens, 30 ff.; faces gun of drunken neighbor, 58; and confronts weapon of another joker, 60; early associations with Mayor Nichols, 32; acts as agent for Henry Hancock, 37; lives in the family of Joseph Newmark, 121; first meeting with George Hansen, 37; friendship with George Carson, 217; learns Spanish before English, 121; becomes charter member of Los Angeles Hebrew Benevolent Society, 123; establishes himself in business, 128; sacrifices necessary to attain success, 128; first business profits, 128; duns a debtor at some personal risk, 144; becomes partner in Rich, Newmark &amp; Co., 146; business trips and adventures, 150 ff.; attends bullfight, 161; experiences first earthquake, 165; 7articipates in early social life, 183; forms friendship with Cameron E. Thom, 228; proposes marriage to Mliss Sarah Newmark, 103; third business venture, 189; revisits San Francisco, 191; rides horseback to Fort Tej&oacute;n, 194 ff.; begins buying hides, 196; joins the Masonic order, 203; second experience with earthquake, 204; as Vigilante, 205; again visits San Francisco, 211; dealings with Louis Robidoux, 175; engages in sheep business, 220; eyewitness to slaying of Sheriff Getman, 221; marries Miss Sarah Newmark, 224, 589; engages in the clothing trade, 237; unfortunate business venture at Fort Tej&oacute;n, 248; participates in a <HI REND="italics"> rodeo</HI>
023.sgm: 552, 555; a founder of Newmark and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>690</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>674</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark &amp; Co.; H., wholesale grocers, establishing of the firm, 343; monopolize trade, 345; supply Government stores, 354; agents for insurance, 280; affected by hard times, 358; open branch office in New York, 359; trade with Arizona, 414; declared "the largest shippers," 436; attitude toward a proposed opposition steamer, 436; assistance rendered Remi Nadeau, 386 ff.; dealers in wool, 437; purchase the Santa Anita <HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Henry M., son of Myer J. Newmark, 465</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Hulda, niece of Harris Newmark, 443</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark), Johanna, sister of Harris Newmark, 7</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark), Joseph, uncle of Harris Newmark, and first to adopt the English form of the name, 122; personality, 122; reaches New York, 122; organizes there Elm Street and Wooster Street synagogues, 122; joins the Masons, at Somerset, Connecticut, 122; marries Miss Rosa Levy, 122; removes to St. Louis, 122; then to Dubuque, 122; arrives in Los Angeles, 121 ff.; brings first Chinese servant seen here, 123, 297; establishes Los Angeles Hebrew Benevolent Society, 122; officiates as rabbi, 122; holds first Jewish service in Los Angeles, 122, 314; leads movement for a Los Angeles Jewish cemetery, 122; performs ceremony at marriage of sons and daughters, 191, 224, 290, 347, 464; member of Newmark, Kremer &amp; Co., 189; death of, 520; 37, 205, 228, 409, 464, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark, Joseph Philipp), J. P., brother of Harris Newmark, 2; and first of family to come to California, 6; assists father in Sweden, 3; goes to England, 3; embarks for America, is drawn to San Francisco by the gold fever, and settles in Los Angeles, 6; buys out Howard, 27; partner of Jacob Rich, 19, 32; as merchant, 27, 37, 57, 73, 427; wholesaler, 32; imports first camphine to Los Angeles, 34; attends three-day barbecue, 157; sends for Harris, 6; furnishing him with funds, 13; and gives him employment, 27; interrupts an entertainment, 60; removes to San Francisco, 60; sells out and establishes credit for his brother, 128; acts also as his business adviser, 146, 359; helps organize Rich, Newmark &amp; Co., 146; becomes a Mason, 203; revisits Europe, 163; bearer of U. S. Government despatches, 163; marries, in Germany, Fra&uuml;lein Augusta Leseritz, 163; returns from Europe, 191; member of Newmark, Kremer &amp; Co., 189; removes again to San Francisco, 240; activity there as commission merchant, 240, 344, 438; forms partnership with Isaac Lightner under title of J. P. Newmark &amp; Co., 344; advises Harris to remove to New York, 359; visits Lake Tahoe and the mines of Nevada, 477; member of the delegation from San Francisco to attend the opening of the San Fernando tunnel, 503; visits Carlsbad, 520; returns to San Francisco, 520; journeys again to Europe, 589; and returns to Los Angeles, 589; death of, 611; 26, 271, 444, 559, 564, 598; -- &amp; Kremer, 237; --, Kremer &amp; Co., 36, 104, 176, 189, 219, 235, 237; -- &amp; Rich, 33; -- &amp; Co., J. P., 344</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Josephine Rose, youngest daughter of Harris Newmark, 564, 593</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Leo, son of Harris Newmark, 515</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Leo, son of J. P. Newmark, xv, 564, 598</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Marco R., son of Harris Newmark, accompanies parents to Europe, 564; visits Alaska, 603; graduates from the University of California and attends the University of Berlin, 624; enters the wbolesale grocery trade, 624; friendly association with Homer Lea, 644; vii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Matilda, daughter of Joseph Newmark, 121, 191</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark), Morris A., nephew of Harris Newmark, arrives in Los Angeles, 344; clerks for H. Newmark, later H. Newmark &amp; Co,, 354; admitted as partner, 444; marries Harriet, daughter of J. P. Newmark, 444; helps organize M. A. Newmark &amp; Co., 549; participates in their fiftieth anniversary, and receives silver cup, 344; 443, 514, 601</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark &amp; Co., M. A., successors to H. Newmark &amp; Co., 549; removal to Wholesale, Street, 644; celebrate their fiftieth anniversary, 343; 517, 535, 559, 600, 624, 629, 644</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Maurice H., son of Harris Newmark, sent to school in New York and Paris, 450; partner in M. A. Newmark &amp; Co., 549; association with first three <HI REND="italics">fiestas,</HI>
023.sgm: 606, 607; member of Executive Committee of Sound Money League, 613; President of Associated Jobbers, 619, 635; 637; Chairman of Supply Committee for Relief of San Francisco, 634; helps incorporate Southwest Museum, 647; member of Executive Committee, Stephen M. White <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>691</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>675</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark), Max N., nephew of Harris Newmark, 382; -- &amp; Edwards, 382; -- Grain Co., 382</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Myer J., son of Joseph Newmark, journeys to California <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark), Nathan, brother of Harris Newmark, 7</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark), Philip, son of Nathan Newmark, 649</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark), Philip A., nephew of Harris Newmark, 601; -- &amp; Co., P., 601</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Philip H., son of Harris Newmark, 515</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark (Neumark), Philipp, native of Neumark, West Prussia, and father of Harris Newmark, 1, 360; sent, as a boy, to Napoleon Bonaparte, 1; manufacturer of blacking and ink, 2; travels in Sweden and Denmark, 2, 621; voyages to New York, 2; returns to Europe, 2; resumes enterprises in Denmark and Scandinavia, 3 ff.; takes Harris into business, 4; operates, with son, workshops at Copenhagen and Gothenburg, 6, 7, 649; consents to lad's departure for California, 7; warns Harris against strangers, 8; death, 360</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Phineas, son of J. P. Newmark, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Rosa, wife of Joseph Newmark, 122; removes to Los Angeles, 121, 123; prime mover in formation of Ladies' Hebrew Benevolent Society, 409; death of, 482; 464, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Samuel M., son of J. P. Newmark, 559; -- Bros., 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Sarah, daughter of Joseph Newmark and wife of Harris Newmark, arrives here <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Newmark, Los Angeles County, 555</P>
023.sgm:<P>New Mexico, 282, 301, 361, 507, 542</P>
023.sgm:<P>New Orleans Exposition, 546</P>
023.sgm:<P>New Orleans Shaving Saloon, 137</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newport, 494</P>
023.sgm:<P>Newport Landing, 506<LB><HI REND="italics">Newport</HI>
023.sgm:, steamboat, 506, 507<LB><HI REND="italics">News, Evening,</HI>
023.sgm: 612, 635<LB><HI REND="italics">News</HI>
023.sgm:<P>News, slow transmission of, 93, 211; -- of the War, 305<LB><HI REND="italics">News Letter</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Newspapers, first issues of, 92, 133, 156, 223, 308, 318, 388, 427, 443, 444, 450, 465, 495, 516, 530, 533, 541, 548, 557, 559, 584, 626, 642; --, first free advertising, 533; --, from the East, 235, 256; illustrated --, 627, 642; first seven-day issues, 557; --, during the Boom, 574 ff; --, during the Civil War, 305, 339, 371</P>
023.sgm:<P>New Town (San Pedro), 236, 290</P>
023.sgm:<P>New Vernon, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>New Year's, early celebration of, 58, 59</P>
023.sgm:<P>New York City, 12, 13, 14, 17, 359, 497; shipment of hides to, 331<LB><HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
023.sgm:<P>New York Mine, 475<LB><HI REND="italics">New York Times,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Nicaragua, 14, 18, 236, 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nicaragua Route, 13, 18, 467, 517; --, Lake, 15</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nichols, Daniel B., 33, 384</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nichols, John Gregg, 32, 33, 35, 36, 105, 115, 205, 218, 246, 356, 364, 384, 400, 616; Mrs. --, 46</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nichols, John Gregg, Jr., 33</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nichols' Canyon, 455</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nickels, 248<LB><HI REND="italics">Nido, El,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Niedecken, Henry, 508</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nieto, Dolores, 51</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nieto, Manuel, 180<LB>Nietos,<HI REND="italics"> rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Nigger Alley, 30, 31, 400, 432, 433, 510</P>
023.sgm:<P> Nordhoff, Charles, 445, 624; --, town of, 624</P>
023.sgm:<P> Nordholt, William, 65, 202, 244; Mrs. --, 202, 245</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nordlinger, Louis S., 356</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nordlinger, Melville, 356</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nordlinger, S., 356; -- &amp; Sons, 356<LB><HI REND="italics">Normandie,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>North Beach, San Francisco, 478</P>
023.sgm:<P>North Beach, Santa Monica, 612</P>
023.sgm:<P>Northcraft, C. L., 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Northcraft, W. H., 483; -- &amp; Clark, 484</P>
023.sgm:<P>Norton, Myron, 45, 47, 54, 140; -- Avenue, 48</P>
023.sgm:<P>Norton, M., 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Norton, S. B., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Norway, 336, 621<LB><HI REND="italics">Novius cardinalis</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Noyes, E. W., 349, 484<LB><HI REND="italics">Nuestra Se&ntilde;ora Reyna de los Angeles, La,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Nurses, scarcity of trained, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Nuts, 412</P>
023.sgm:<P>O</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oak Knoll, 169</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oak trees, 126</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oath of allegiance, 308, 321</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oatman girls, 218</P>
023.sgm:<P>O'Brien, Jack, 348</P>
023.sgm:<P>O'Brien, Thomas, 386</P>
023.sgm:<P>O'Campo, Francisco, 99, 100</P>
023.sgm:<P>O'Campo, Tommy, 429</P>
023.sgm:<P>Occidental College, 566<LB><HI REND="italics">Occidental Sketches,</HI>
023.sgm: 361<LB><HI REND="italics">Ocean</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Ocean Park, 603, 627, 645</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>692</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>676</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Ocean Spray, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Odd characters, 253, 277, 527, 528, 610</P>
023.sgm:<P>Odd Fellows Lodge No. 35, 49, 149, 355, 402, 624; -- halls, 300, 513</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oden, George N., 394</P>
023.sgm:<P>Odontological Society of Southern California, 368</P>
023.sgm:<P>Off, J. W. A., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Offices, 570; furnishing of --, 435, 570</P>
023.sgm:<P>Offutt, R. H., 380</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ogier, Isaac Stockton Keith, 35, 45, 53, 246; -- Street (Lane), 54<LB><HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Oil, 377, 379, 407, 622; -- found in residence district, 603; --, hair, 138; -- Queen, 603</P>
023.sgm:<P>Olden, W. R., 441</P>
023.sgm:<P>Old Mission, 54, 150<LB><HI REND="italics">Old Oaken Bucket, The</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Old Settler's Society, 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oleander, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Olives and their culture, 92, 212, 302, 412, 472; -- oil, 302</P>
023.sgm:<P>Olive Street, 73, 472</P>
023.sgm:<P>Olivewood, 579<LB><HI REND="italics">Olla-podrida,</HI>
023.sgm: 118<LB><HI REND="italics">Ollas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Olney, Mrs. C. R., 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Olvera, Agustin, 35, 47, 99, 102, 214, 215; -- Street, 99</P>
023.sgm:<P>Olvera, Louisa (later Mrs. C. H. Forbes), 214<LB><HI REND="italics">Olympia,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>O'Melveny, H. K. S., 285, 403, 426, 441, 466, 493; Mrs. --, 403</P>
023.sgm:<P>O'Melveny, H. W., 403, 476, 578, 614, 626, 648</P>
023.sgm:<P>Omnibuses, 389, 397, 402</P>
023.sgm:<P>O'Neill, Lillian Nance, 155<LB><HI REND="italics">On Horseback,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Ontario, 516, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Onteveras, Pacifico, 212</P>
023.sgm:<P>Op&eacute;ra Comique, Paris, 565</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ophir Mine, 474</P>
023.sgm:<P>Orange, town of, 177, 352</P>
023.sgm:<P>Orange County, 177, 594</P>
023.sgm:<P>Orange Grove Association, 445, 448</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oranges and orange groves, 211, 212, 286, 352, 382, 391, 412, 448, 532, 576, 578; orange trees brought from Nicaragua, 459; first navel oranges, 451, 625; device for picking oranges, 265</P>
023.sgm:<P>Orchards, 28, 112, 162, 573, 578</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ord, E. O. C., 33, 34, 112, 336; -- Survey, 334</P>
023.sgm:<P>O'Reilly, James, 475</P>
023.sgm:<P>O'Reilly, John Boyle, 605</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oriental Restaurant, 491</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oriental Stage Co., 417<LB><HI REND="italics">Oriflamme,</HI>
023.sgm: 346<LB><HI REND="italics">Orizaba</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Orme, Henry S., 371, 423, 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ormsby, J. S., 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ormsby, W. L., 234<LB><HI REND="italics">Oropel</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Orphans, homes for, 190, 643</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ortega, Emile C., 87</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ortiz, Miguel, 272</P>
023.sgm:<P>Osborn, John, 373</P>
023.sgm:<P>Osborn, William, 386, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Osborne, H. Z., 543, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Osburn, William B., 94, 107, 108, 109, 138, 155, 192, 194</P>
023.sgm:<P>Osgoodby, George, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ostriches, 547; the Ostrich Farm, 547</P>
023.sgm:<P>Otaheite, 254<LB><HI REND="italics">Othello,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Otis, Harrison Gray, 468, 533, 555, 556, 557, 589, 607, 616, 626; Mrs. --, 617</P>
023.sgm:<P>Otter hunting, 170<LB><HI REND="italics">Our Italy</HI>
023.sgm:, 597<LB><HI REND="italics">Out of Doors California and Oregon, 476</HI>
023.sgm:<P>"Out of town," 32, 105<LB><HI REND="italics">Out West Magazine,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Overland Mail, 259, 301, 375; --Co., 234; -- Route, 234, 242, 271, 294; -- staging, 91, 234, 267</P>
023.sgm:<P>Overman &amp; Caledonia mines, 477</P>
023.sgm:<P>Overstreet, Dr., 107</P>
023.sgm:<P>Owens, Bob, 138; Mrs. (Aunt Winnie), 138</P>
023.sgm:<P>Owens Lake, cleansing properties of, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Owens, Madison T., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Owens River and country, 375, 385 ff.; -- Aqueduct, 50, 545; -- Mines, 322, 385 ff.; -- Valley, 440</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oxarart, Gaston, 310; -- Block, 513</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oxnard, Henry T., 598; --, town of, 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oxnard, Robert, 598</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ox-teams, 201, 233</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oyharzabel, Domingo, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Oysters, 279</P>
023.sgm:<P>P<LB><HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Pacific &amp; Atlantic Telegraph Co., 283</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pacific Coast compared to other countries, 398</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pacific Electric Building, 620</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pacific Light and Power Co., 515</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pacific Mail Steamship Co., 465, 486</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pacific Railway Expedition, 364; --`s view of Los Angeles, 364</P>
023.sgm:<P>Packard, Albert, 168</P>
023.sgm:<P>Packard, T. T., 500</P>
023.sgm:<P>Packet Service, Coast, 152, 153, 237</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pack-trains, 272</P>
023.sgm:<P>Padilla, Juan N., 32, 244; -- Building, 57<LB><HI REND="italics">Padres</HI>
023.sgm: (see Mission Fathers)<LB><HI REND="italics">Paisano</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Palace Saloon, 455</P>
023.sgm:<P>Palacio, El, 223</P>
023.sgm:<P>Palmas, Dos, 414</P>
023.sgm:<P>Palmer, Joseph C., 272</P>
023.sgm:<P>Palomares, Ygn&aacute;cio, 174, 179; --, town of, 578</P>
023.sgm:<P>Palos Verdes <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Panam&aacute; Canal, 236, 651; -- Route and travel, 13, 46, 142, 305, 315, 359, 532, 623; -- hat, 158, 159; --, Kern County, 453</P>
023.sgm:<P>Panamint, 387, 479<LB><HI REND="italics">Pan de huevos</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Panic following prosperity, 478<LB><HI REND="italics">Panocha,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Paper, local manufacture of, 384</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pardee, George C., 631</P>
023.sgm:<P>Paris, 67, 360, 450, 564; --, Commune, 491; --, Exposition, 1855, 264; --, Exposition, 1867, 360</P>
023.sgm:<P>Paris Exposition Circus, 381</P>
023.sgm:<P>Parish, E. C., 92<LB><HI REND="italics">Parisian</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Parker House, San Francisco, 22</P>
023.sgm:<P>Parker, E. S., 512</P>
023.sgm:<P>Parkman, Francis, xii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Parks, 97, 388, 417, 539, 557, 614, 643</P>
023.sgm:<P>Parnell mines, 475</P>
023.sgm:<P>Parris, Willis, 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Parrott, Dr., 200</P>
023.sgm:<P>Parson, A. C., 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>Parson, A. M., 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pasadena, 178, 238, 316, 337, 445, 557, 576, 578, 579, 585, 586, 592, 599, 601, 613, --, Colony and Settlement, 50, 532; --, origin of name, 448; South --, 586; -- Railroad, 563</P>
023.sgm:<P>Paso de &Aacute;guila, El, 82</P>
023.sgm:<P>Paso de Robles, 329, 496</P>
023.sgm:<P>Paso, El, 546</P>
023.sgm:<P>Passports, 163, 315<LB><HI REND="italics">Pastores, Los</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Pastrymen, 288</P>
023.sgm:<P>Patagonia Copper Mining Co., 276</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>693</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>677</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Patents to lands, 146, 166, 172, 173, 174, 179, 182, 244, 275, 509<LB><HI REND="italics">Patios,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Patrick, M. S., 472</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pattee, Frank A., 646</P>
023.sgm:<P>Patterson, W. C., 607, 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Patti, Adelina, 590, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Patton, George S. and Mrs., 363</P>
023.sgm:<P>Patton, George S., Jr., 363, 568; Mrs. --, 363</P>
023.sgm:<P>Patton, Harry, 612</P>
023.sgm:<P>Paul, C. T., 516</P>
023.sgm:<P>Paulding, Joseph, 261</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pavements, 519, 561, 584</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pawnbrokers, 221</P>
023.sgm:<P>Payne, Henry T., 465, 499, 557</P>
023.sgm:<P>Paynter, J. W., 427</P>
023.sgm:<P>Peach and honey, 40<LB><HI REND="italics">Peachbrand,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Pearl Street, 231, 362, 461, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pease, 126</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pease, Niles, 607, 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Peck, George H., 452, 453<LB><HI REND="italics">Pedro,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Pedro, the Indian, 124</P>
023.sgm:<P>Peel, B. L., 425, 436; -- &amp; Co., B. L., 425</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pekin Curio Store, 232</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pellissier, Germain, 362</P>
023.sgm:<P>Penelon, Henri, 82, 293</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pennies, 248, 511</P>
023.sgm:<P>Peoples, Superintendent, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>People's Store, 530</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pepper trees, 97, 291</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pepys, Samuel xi; -- Diary, xiii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Perry, Everett R., 639<LB><HI REND="italics">Perry, Lewis</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Perry, Mamie (Perry-Davis, later Mrs. Modini Wood), 528, 529</P>
023.sgm:<P>Perry, W. H., 66, 81, 162, 317, 349, 366, 428, 521, 528, 543, 636; Mrs. --, 66, 162, 528; -- &amp; Co., 81; -- &amp; Woodworth, 81, 82, 127, 412</P>
023.sgm:<P>Persimmon tree, 163</P>
023.sgm:<P>Peru, 71, 120, 162, 389, 542<LB><HI REND="italics">Pescadero, 127</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Pesthouse, 118</P>
023.sgm:<P>Peter, Father, 553</P>
023.sgm:<P>Petroleum, 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>Petsch, A., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Peyton, Valentine, 604</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pflugardt, George W., 206</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ph&aelig;ton, first here, 511</P>
023.sgm:<P>Phelps, E. C., 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Philadelphia, 497; -- Brewery, 197, 500; -- Centennial at, 497; -- Oil Co., 170; -- &amp; California Oil Co., 302</P>
023.sgm:<P>Philbin, John, 248, 249</P>
023.sgm:<P>"Philip's Best" beer, 231</P>
023.sgm:<P>Philippines, 616</P>
023.sgm:<P>Philippi, Jake, 230</P>
023.sgm:<P>Phillips, Louis, 89, 531; -- Block, 115, 530; 161, 330, 421; Mrs. --, 89</P>
023.sgm:<P>Photographers, 82, 293, 364, 465; wet-plate --, 365</P>
023.sgm:<P>Physical culture, first, 273</P>
023.sgm:<P>Physicians, 26, 58, 92, 94, 99, 106, 107 ff., 193, 227, 237, 245, 322, 389, 423, 548, 589, 593, 598, 641, 648</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pianos, 376<LB><HI REND="italics">Pianos and their Makers</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Picayune, 192</P>
023.sgm:<P>Picher, Anna B., 622, 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Picnics, 132, 397, 401, 429</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pico, Andres, 38, 92, 99, 135, 172, 173, 178, 179, 180, 190, 208, 214, 381, 400, 441, 488, 493; -- ranches, 179</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pico, Ant&oacute;nio Mar&iacute;a, 297</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pico, Jesus, 178</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pico, Pio, 27, 98, 99, 102, 160, 170, 173, 177, 179, 180, 293, 294, 297, 332, 400, 471, 531, 608; -- Crossing, 180; -- Heights, 609; -- House, 98, 180, 186, 396, 431, 469, 488, 491, 500, 516, 518; -- ranches, 180; -- Spring, 346; -- Street, 73, 125</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pico, Ysidora, 173</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pierce, Edward T., 532</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pierce, Franklin, 65, 121</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pierce, H. A., 121</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pierce, N. &amp; Co., 152</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pigeon messengers, 430</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pig lead, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pike, George H., 590<LB><HI REND="italics">Pilgrim</HI>
023.sgm:, brig, 226<LB><HI REND="italics">Pilon</HI>
023.sgm:, 77<LB><HI REND="italics">Pinafore</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Pinikahti, 277, 278</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pinney Block, 192<LB><HI REND="italics">Pinole</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Pintoresca, 586</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pioneer Oil Co., 346</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pioneer Race Course, 303</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pioneers, banquet to, 630; neglected duty of --, vii; early proposed society of --, 561; -- first as tourists, 353</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pioneers of Southern California, Los Angeles County, 239, 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pipes, clay and brier, 253</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pipes, iron, 365, 377, 384, 445; --, wooden, 350, 366</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pitch-roofs, 114</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pite&aring;, 4</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pi-Utes, 275</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pixley, Frank, 525</P>
023.sgm:<P>Plains, continental, 71, 77, 82, 304, 403; local significance of, 276</P>
023.sgm:<P>Planters Hotel, Anaheim, 643</P>
023.sgm:<P>Plater, John E., 467, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Playa del Rey, 125, 459, 490</P>
023.sgm:<P>Plaza, 30, 31, 47, 66, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 106, 107, 112, 115, 149, 210, 224, 232, 254, 262, 272, 281, 285, 294, 296, 300, 381, 385, 388, 417, 418, 461, 488, 511, 518, 535, 557; -- water tank, 211, 388, 418</P>
023.sgm:<P>Plaza Church, 82, 97, 100, 101, 112, 114, 258, 293, 628; --, repairing of, 293</P>
023.sgm:<P>Plaza Hotel, San Juan Bautista, 270</P>
023.sgm:<P>Plaza, San Francisco, 21, 98</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pleasant Valley, 496</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pleasants, J. E., 106, 126, 127, 171, 326, 413, 494</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ploennies, Otto von, 499</P>
023.sgm:<P>Plows, iron and steel, 357</P>
023.sgm:<P>Plumbers' tools, brought from San Francisco, 384</P>
023.sgm:<P>Plunger, luck of a, 333<LB><HI REND="italics">Pocahontas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Poe, Edgar Allan, 101</P>
023.sgm:<P>Poker playing, 55, 154</P>
023.sgm:<P>Polaski, lsidor, 70</P>
023.sgm:<P>Polaski, Louis, 70; -- &amp; Goodwin, 70; -- &amp; Sons, 70</P>
023.sgm:<P>Polaski, Myer L., 70</P>
023.sgm:<P>Polaski, Samuel, 70: -- Bros., 70</P>
023.sgm:<P>Polhamus, A. A., 384, 393</P>
023.sgm:<P>Police, first chief of, 510; lack of --, 333; poor -- protection, 487</P>
023.sgm:<P>Politeness, accident due to excessive, 419</P>
023.sgm:<P>Political celebrations, 268; -- gatherings, 40, 282, 511</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pollitz, Edward, 230</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pollock, merchant, 70; -- &amp; Goodwin, 70</P>
023.sgm:<P>Polonia, 253</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pomegranates, 126</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pomona, 330, 576; -- Valley, 578</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pond, Edward B., 598</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ponet, Victor, 382</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pony Express, 245, 264, 291, 294, 373</P>
023.sgm:<P>Population of Los Angeles, 25, 266, 271, 528, 567</P>
023.sgm:<P>Porches, 113<LB><HI REND="italics">Porcupine</HI>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>694</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>678</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Portable houses, 203</P>
023.sgm:<P>Port Ballona, 579; -- Harford, 346; Los Angeles, 468; -- San Carlos, 16; -- San Luis, 152</P>
023.sgm:<P>Porter, David Dixon, 222</P>
023.sgm:<P>Porter, F. B., 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>Porter, George K., 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>Porter, murder of, 35</P>
023.sgm:<P>Porterfield, W. H., 610</P>
023.sgm:<P>Portius, Dr., 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Portland, Oregon, 373</P>
023.sgm:<P>Portol&aacute;, Gaspar de, 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Portugal, Adolph, 244, 248, 311, 340</P>
023.sgm:<P>Portuguese Bend, 581<LB><HI REND="italics">Posse,</HI>
023.sgm: Sheriff's, 206, 348, 455, 457, 471; -- <HI REND="italics">comitatus</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Post, delay of, 93, 147, 264</P>
023.sgm:<P>Postmasters, remuneration of early, 380, 449</P>
023.sgm:<P>Post Office, 66, 94, 231, 291, 349, 354, 372, 380, 410, 514, 560, 604, 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>Potatoes, 331</P>
023.sgm:<P>Potomac Block, 115</P>
023.sgm:<P>Potrero Grande, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Potter, Nehemiah A., 203, 218, 246; -- &amp; Co., 219</P>
023.sgm:<P>Potter, O. W., 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Potts, J. Wesley, 61, 126</P>
023.sgm:<P>Poulterer, De Ro &amp; Eldridge, 281</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pound Cake Hill, 301, 374, 452</P>
023.sgm:<P>Powers, Ethel, 645</P>
023.sgm:<P>Powers, L. M., 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prager, Charles, 104, 180, 383</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prager, Sam, 104, 105, 314, 383</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prairie schooners, 201, 345, 414</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prentice, B. H., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Presbyterians, 566</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prescott, 415, 416</P>
023.sgm:<P>President of the United States, gift to, 219</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prentiss, Samuel, 238</P>
023.sgm:<P>Preuss, Edward, 409; Mrs. --, 39; -- &amp; Pironi, 363</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prevost, Louis, 390</P>
023.sgm:<P>Price, Burr, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prices of commodities, early, 345</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prickly pear, 126<LB><HI REND="italics">Pride of the Sea</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Pridham, George, 405, 481</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pridham, R. W., 606, 607, 611</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pridham, William, 106, 373, 374, 481; Mrs. --, 373; -- Block, 192</P>
023.sgm:<P>Principal, Calle, 31</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prisoners on public works, 286</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pro-Cathedral, Episcopal, 301</P>
023.sgm:<P>Processions, 101, 254, 296, 338, 442, 499, 528, 529, 606<LB><HI REND="italics">Progr&egrave;s, le</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Progressive Party, 639, 642</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prohibition, convention, 13; first -- community, 340</P>
023.sgm:<P>Promontory Point, Utah, 388</P>
023.sgm:<P>Property, low valuations of, 37, 220, 379, 572</P>
023.sgm:<P>Protestants and the Protestant Church, 102, 103, 208, 246, 313, 314, 516<LB><HI REND="italics">Providencia,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Providencia <HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Provincial life in the late sixties, 377</P>
023.sgm:<P>Prudhomme (Prudhon), L. Victor, 62, 427</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pryor, Charles, 293</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pryor, Lottie, 293</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pryor (Prior), Nathaniel (Miguel N.), 292, 293; Mrs. --, first wife, 293; Mrs. --, second wife, 293</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pryor, Nathaniel, Jr., 293</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pryor, Pablo, 293</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pueblo-like life of the early sixties, 266</P>
023.sgm:<P>Puente, la, 475, 494, 520; -- Creek, 471; -- Mills, 470; -- oil, 172, 377; -- <HI REND="italics">rancho, 87,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Puerto San Miguel, Barcelona, 490</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pursuits, humble, 79</P>
023.sgm:<P>Pyle, B. W., 235, 236</P>
023.sgm:<P>Q</P>
023.sgm:<P>Quakers, 449, 576</P>
023.sgm:<P>Quartermaster, U. S. A., 246, 265, 297</P>
023.sgm:<P>Queen City, proposed town of, 318</P>
023.sgm:<P>Queen &amp; Gard, 370<LB><HI REND="italics">Queen of the Pacific,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Quimby, C. H., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Quinces, 126</P>
023.sgm:<P>R</P>
023.sgm:<P>Race track, 462</P>
023.sgm:<P>Raffles, 385</P>
023.sgm:<P>Raho, Padre Blas, 293</P>
023.sgm:<P>Railroads, 331, 352, 363, 370, 373, 380, 402, 423, 430, 440, 452, 486, 507, 556, 562, 581, 583, 604, 614, 630; accidents, 536, 583; affected by steamers, 404; Railroad Commission, 620; cxcursions, 393, 394, 404, 430, 442, 485, 525; first fight against the -- companies, 506, 507; locomotives, 376, 380, 397, 402; first one built here, 592; war between __s, 556, 570; San Pedro -- (see Los Angeles &amp; San Pedro R. R.); opposition to --s, 354, 441; private cars, 487; Seward's prediction as to --s, 399</P>
023.sgm:<P>Raimond, R. E., 283</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rainfall, effect and importance of, 34, 215, 309, 329, 360, 380; rains, 241, 289, 328, 329, 487, 541</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rains, Fannie V., 617</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rains, John, 197, 302, 326, 348, 617; Mrs. -- 168</P>
023.sgm:<P>Raisins, 412</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ralphs, George A., 550; Mrs. --, 550; -- &amp; Grocery, 550; -- Grocery Co., 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ralston, W. C., 477, 478</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ramirez, Andr&eacute;s, 63</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ramirez, B. F., 443</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ramirez, Francisco P., 156, 333, 493</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ramirez, town of, 575<LB><HI REND="italics">Ramona</HI>
023.sgm:, 41, 102, 445, 520, 531<LB><HI REND="italics">Rancher&iacute;as,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Ranch stores, 175<LB><HI REND="italics">Ranchito,</HI>
023.sgm: 98, 470<LB><HI REND="italics">Ranchos</HI>
023.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
023.sgm:, 84, 110, 166 ff., 175, 181, 214, 242, 313, 329, 332, 340, 344, 421; ranch fences, 167, 274; Spanish ranch houses, 167<LB><HI REND="italics">Ranger, Reminiscences of a</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Rangers, 33, 53, 58, 74, 83, 99, 139, 147, 207, 221</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rankin, Collector, 306</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rapp, William, 480</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rate war, 556, 557</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rattlesnakes, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rattlesnake Island, 174, 268, 426, 601</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ravenna, Manuel, 233, 234, 475</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ravenna, town of, 475</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rawson, A. M., 619</P>
023.sgm:<P>Raymond, 576, 578, 579; -- Hotel, 576, 586</P>
023.sgm:<P>Real Castillo, 424<LB><HI REND="italics">Real Estate Advertiser,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Real estate, 232, 332, 333, 362, 401, 513, 522, 569 ff., 583; leap frog with --, 536; sudden advances in --, 570</P>
023.sgm:<P>Realty agents, first, 401<LB><HI REND="italics">Reata,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Reaume, Captain, 381</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rebbick, Lydia, 250<LB><HI REND="italics">Rebozos,</HI>
023.sgm: 66, 158<LB><HI REND="italics">Record, Los Angeles,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Records, Edward, 557</P>
023.sgm:<P>Redlands, 176, 591</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>695</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>679</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Redondo, boom at, 631, 632; -- Salt Works, 133, 492</P>
023.sgm:<P>Red Rock, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Redwood, 230</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reed, Henry, 316</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reed, maniac, 220</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reed, Thomas Brackett, 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reese, Michael, 329, 520</P>
023.sgm:<P>Refreshments, 184</P>
023.sgm:<P>Refrigerator cars, 623</P>
023.sgm:<P>Registration of 1869 voters, 401</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reid, Hugo, 89, 107; Mrs. --, 165; --, library of, 47</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reid, Templeton, 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Religious services held in courts, 314, 339</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rendall, Stephen A., 364</P>
023.sgm:<P>Repetto, Alessandro, 421, 454, 458, 552 ff.; -- <HI REND="italics"> rancho</HI>
023.sgm:, 450, 552, 555; --'s brother, 553 ff.<LB><HI REND="italics">Republican, Evening,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Republicans, 91, 285, 296, 323, 639; "black" --, 240</P>
023.sgm:<P>Requena, Manuel, 38, 105, 190, 219, 253; Street, 32, 38,</P>
023.sgm:<P>Restaurant life, early, 27, 369, 490; outdoor restaurants, 340</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reward unpaid by L. A. County, 425</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reyes, Pablo, 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reyes, Ysidro, 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reynolds, C. C., 619, 633, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Reynolds, J. J., 389, 397, 417, 429</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rhea, Philip (Felipe), 58, 59, 64</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rice, 329</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rice, George D., 612</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rice, Mr., 502</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rich, B. B., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rich, Jacob, 19, 21, 23, 24, 32, 60, 61, 118, 189; Mrs. --, first Jewess to settle here, 60, 61, 104; -- Bros., 12; -- &amp; Laventhal, 189; --, Newmark &amp; Co., 146</P>
023.sgm:<P>Richards, C. N. &amp; Co., 133</P>
023.sgm:<P>Richland, 352</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rico, Mr. and Mrs., 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Riis, Jacob A., 642</P>
023.sgm:<P>Riley, Frank, 262</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rinaldi, C. R., 377</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rincon de los Bueyes, 460</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rincon <HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Rio Colorado, U. S. Surveying Expedition to, 183</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rio Grande, 222, 232<LB><HI REND="italics">Rise and Fall of the Mustache, The</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Ritchie, William, 320</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rivara, Dominico, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rivera, 180, 577</P>
023.sgm:<P>Riverside, 175, 391, 451</P>
023.sgm:<P>River Station, 531</P>
023.sgm:<P>Robarts, John, 533, 554 ff.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Robert, Dent H., 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Robidoux Hill, 175 </P>
023.sgm:<P>Robidoux, Louis, 64, 174, 176, 177, 374, 391; Se&ntilde;ora --, 175; -- Mount, 175; -- <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Robinson, Edward I., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Robinson, J. C., 594, 595</P>
023.sgm:<P>Robinson, J. W., 536; -- Co., 513; -- Dry Goods Co., 536</P>
023.sgm:<P>Robinson, W. W., 587</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rocha, A. J., 37</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rocha, Jacinto, 174</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rock-fish, 127</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rocky Mountain Circus, Bartholomew's, 262</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rodeos, 182, 242</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rodgers, Walter E., 455</P>
023.sgm:<P>Roeder, Louis, 153, 154, 239, 267; -- Block, 267</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rogers, Ralph, 568</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rojo, Manuel Clemente, 53, 54, 56</P>
023.sgm:<P>Roller-skating, 426</P>
023.sgm:<P>Roman Catholics (see under Catholics)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rome, 398</P>
023.sgm:<P>Romero, Guadalupe, 226</P>
023.sgm:<P>Roofs, of tar, 114; --, tiled, 114; --, weighted with stones, 336</P>
023.sgm:<P>Roosevelt, Theodore, 625, 629</P>
023.sgm:<P>Roosters, game, 162</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rosa, Jos&eacute; de la, 93</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rose, Annie Wilhelmina, 403</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rose, L. J., 43, 200, 285, 286, 403, 421, 426, 427, 439, 441, 472, 483, 578, 584, 585, 589, 592; Mrs. (Amanda) --, 578; Rose Meade, 592</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rose, Truman H., 389, 390, 419, 452; Mrs. --, 390</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rosecrans, William Starke, 33, 382, 397; --, town of, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rosedale, 609; -- Cemetery, 548, 567</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rose Tournament at Pasadena, first, 592</P>
023.sgm:<P>Roses, imported from the East, 139</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ross, Erskine Mayo, 230, 488, 565, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ross, W. G., 150</P>
023.sgm:<P>Round House, 41, 64, 126, 192, 259, 272, 273, 428, 499, 522, 585; -- George, 193, 463</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rouse, W. J., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Row, The, 61, 351</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rowan, George D., 510</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rowan, James, 191</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rowan, P. D., 511</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rowan, R. A., 551; -- &amp; Co., 511</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rowan, Thomas E., 191, 269, 383, 405, 446, 552, 606; Mrs. --, 191; -- Avenue, 191; Street, 191</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rowland, John, 87, 91, 106, 172, 211, 421, 494; Mrs. --, 91</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rowland, Nieves, 172</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rowland, William (Billy), 172, 377, 454, 455, 458, 532</P>
023.sgm:<P>Royere, Paul P., xii</P>
023.sgm:<P>R&uacute;bio, Jos&eacute; de, 23, 201, 202; Se&ntilde;ora --, 202, 609; R&uacute;bio's, 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rubottom, Ezekiel, 91, 144</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rubottom, William (Uncle Billy), 91, 144</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rugby School, 422</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rule, Ferdinand K., 597, 607, 625</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rumph, John and Frau, 402</P>
023.sgm:<P>Russ Garden, San Francisco, 275<LB><HI REND="italics">Russia</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Ryan, Andrew W., 495</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ryan, F. G., 603</P>
023.sgm:<P>Rydall, E. H., 547</P>
023.sgm:<P>S</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sabichi, Frank, 271, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sabichi, Josefa Franco, 171</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sabichi, Mateo, 171</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sabine Pass, 350</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sachs &amp; Co., L. &amp; M., 381</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sackett &amp; Morgan, 346</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sackett, Russell, 36</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sackville-West, Lord, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sacramento, 260, 389, 403, 453, 496, 562</P>
023.sgm:<P>Saddle-horses, 157</P>
023.sgm:<P>Saddles and saddlery, 74, 82, 85, 110, 111, 132, 157, 159, 291, 383, 473, 528</P>
023.sgm:<P>Saeger, J., 619</P>
023.sgm:<P>Safes, for valuables and money, 129, 343, 487<LB><HI REND="italics">Saginaw</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Sailing vessels, 237, 290, 345; from and to the Atlantic, 151, 331. (See also under Cape Horn)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sainsevain, Jean Louis, 132, 163, 197, 198, 239, 254, 265, 273, 300, 350, 365, 366, 369, 592; -- Bros., 199; -- Street, 199; -- Vineyard, 198</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sainsevain, Louis, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sainsevain, Michel, 199</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sainsevain, Paul, 199</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sainsevain, Pierre, 198, 199, 265</P>
023.sgm:<P>St. Athanasius Church, 301</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>696</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>680</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>St. Charles Hotel, 469, 514</P>
023.sgm:<P>St. Elmo Hotel, 252, 469, 525, 613</P>
023.sgm:<P>St. George d'Ol&eacute;ron, France, 281</P>
023.sgm:<P>St. James, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>St. Louis, 416</P>
023.sgm:<P>St. Paul's School, 340</P>
023.sgm:<P>St. Valentine's Day, 46, 296</P>
023.sgm:<P>St. Vincent's College, 232, 341</P>
023.sgm:<P>Salaberri, Juan, 549; -- &amp; Co., J., 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Salandie, Mme., 78</P>
023.sgm:<P>Salesmen, traveling, 521</P>
023.sgm:<P>Salinas City, 497</P>
023.sgm:<P>Saloons, 21, 29, 30, 31, 39, 59, 64, 134, 149, 209, 230, 347, 405, 480, 570; --, synonym for shops, 137, 396</P>
023.sgm:<P>Salsido, Vicente, 114</P>
023.sgm:<P>Salt Lake City, 66, 74, 155, 187, 233, 248, 304, 345, 351, 498; --, Great, 187; --, trade with, 187, 290</P>
023.sgm:<P>Salt Lake Express, Great, 155</P>
023.sgm:<P>Salt Lake Route, 82</P>
023.sgm:<P>Salt, Liverpool, 557</P>
023.sgm:<P>Samsbury, Stephen, 424</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Ant&oacute;nio <HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>San Bernardino, 71, 74, 88, 90, 150, 155, 165, 187, 198, 207, 233, 234, 242, 287, 312, 313, 323, 337, 366, 411, 414, 415, 549; -- County, 87, 281, 426</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Bernardino Mountains, 350, 370; --, ice from, 291, 247, 370</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Bernardino <HI REND="italics"> rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>San Buenaventura, 153, 209, 246, 298, 395, 496</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Carlos, Port, 16</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Clemente Island, 216</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Diego, 28, 67, 71, 152, 160, 207, 397, 398, 411, 418, 472, 589, 633; --, Old Town, 153, 367; -- County, 426, 531</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Diego, 520, 589, 633</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Diego &amp; Gila River Railroad, 382</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Dimas, 578, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Feliciano Canon, 95</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Fernando, 386, 459, 496, 516, 579; -- Farm Association, 381</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Fernando Mission, 92, 120, 196, 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Fernando Mountains, 321, 323, 385, 459, 502</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Fernando placers, 313</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Fernando ranches, 179, 180, 381, 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Fernando Street, 63, 160, 493; -- railroad station, 211</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Fernando tunnel, 323, 386, 459, 496, 502; -- declared impossible, 503; --, inauguration of, 504</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Fernando Valley, 275, 531; -- and bears, 447</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Francisco, 19 ff., 39, 71, 73, 120, 152, 153, 160, 199, 211, 216, 233, 240, 242, 260, 283, 284, 294, 296, 322, 325, 359, 397, 401, 411, 417, 453, 497, 504; -- compared with Los Angeles, 582; --, dependence of Los Angeles on, 73, 152, 305, 311, 313, 332, 384, 405, 406, 410, 438; theatrical talent from --, 286 381, 422; -- earthquake and fire, 633 ff., 636; relief furnished -- by Los Angeles, 634; --, first three-story building there, 610; -- Grand Opera House, 560; lead shipped to --, 388; -- Dock &amp; Wharf Co., 269; -- <HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>San Francisquito Ca&ntilde;on, 95; -- Ranch, 170, 174</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Gabriel, 50, 54, 71, 87, 89, 90, 106, 107, 126, 161, 165, 199, 208, 376, 384, 386, 579; -- Ca&ntilde;on, 95; locomotive, 376</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Gabriel Electric Co., 515</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Gabriel Mission, 55, 88, 102, 171, 199, 200, 255, 286, 493, 501</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Gabriel Mountains, 179</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Gabriel placers, 313</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Gabriel River, 91, 180, 257, 471; New --, 406</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Gabriel, sheep at, 216</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Gabriel Valley, 90, 91, 107, 168, 374, 531, 576</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Gabriel Wine Co., 302</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Jacinto and Valley, 374, 620</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Joaqu&iacute;n Ranch, 181, 206</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Joaqu&iacute;n Valley, 440; -- rate case, 619, 620</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Jos&eacute;, 153, 234, 357, 453, 458, 497</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Jos&eacute; <HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>San Juan Bautista, 270</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Juan Caj&oacute;n de Santa Ana, 166</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Juan Capistrano, 157, 181; Don San Juan and Don San Juan Capistrano, 173; -- Mission, 92, 206, 207, 254, 326</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Juan de Fuca, 346</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Juan del Norte, 14, 15, 18</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Juan del Sur, 16, 17, 18</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Juan River, 15</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Luis Obispo, 22, 48, 153, 178, 188, 246, 496; -- County, 246, 447<LB><HI REND="italics">San Luis</HI>
023.sgm:<P>San Pasqual <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>San Pedro, 22, 23, 24, 27, 48, 68, 74, 127, 152, 155, 156, 170, 173, 188, 197, 199, 202, 205, 227, 236, 245, 250, 274, 276, 290, 301, 302, 306, 308, 346, 359, 380, 395, 404, 424, 427, 460, 468, 522, 637, 638</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Pedro Harbor, 174, 268, 290, 320, 404, 426, 450, 468, 581, 617, 618; -- fight, 617</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Pedro, journey by foot from, 68, 149</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Pedro, Los Angeles &amp; Salt Lake Railroad, 341, 535, 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Pedro, New, 236, 250, 290, 302, 307, 317, 321</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Pedro New Town, 236, 290, 307</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Pedro Railroad (see under Los Angeles)</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Pedro, <HI REND="italics">rancho de</HI>
023.sgm:<P>San Pedro Street, 25, 160, 200, 202, 335, 459; -- Railway, 487, 488</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Pedro Wharf, 568</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Quentin Prison, 206, 326</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Rafael Ranch, 178, 214; -- Heights, 646</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Timoteo Ca&ntilde;on, 591</P>
023.sgm:<P>San Vicente <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Sanchez, Francisco, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanchez Hall, 99</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanchez, Juan Matias, 181, 421, 478</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanchez, Pedro, 183</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanchez, Tom&aacute;s A., 43, 99, 275, 324, 326, 344</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanchez, Vicente, 99, 114, 294; -- Street, 99, 293<LB><HI REND="italics">Sand&iacute;a,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Sandwich Islands, 93, 156, 320, 390</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sandy Hook, 12</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanford, E. M., 362, 403</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanford, John, 327</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanford, Rebecca, 327</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanford, W. T. B., 105, 187, 320, 327, Mrs.--, 320</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanford, Mr., 217</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sangiovanni, A. Bergamo, 528</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanitary Commission, U. S., and San Francisco 325; -- and Los Angeles, 326</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sanitation, primitive, 119</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sansome Street, San Francisco, 22</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Ana, 166, 177, 401, 576, 594; -- River, 212, 348, 391, 406; --, new channel, 541</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Anita, 578; -- Mining Co., 241; -- placers, 313; -- <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Santa B&aacute;rbara, 22, 48, 108, 152, 153, 244, 246, 399, 411, 436, 496, 583; -- Channel, 216; -- County, 108, 426; --, road to, 246</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Catalina Island, 15, 89, 216, 238, 318, 333, 407, 430, 522, 568, 624; 1859 excursion to --, 250 ff.; proposed harbor of --, 581; -- Co., 568</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>697</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>681</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Clara River, 40</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Cruz Island, 216</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Cruz, Mariano G., 162, 458, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa F&eacute; Railroad (see Atchison, Topeka &amp; Santa F&eacute;)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa F&eacute;, town of, 63, 83, 187</P>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Gertrudis <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Margarita <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Santa Monica, 231, 429, 460, 465, 466, 468, 479 ff., 485 ff., 490, 568, 569, 580, 581, 603, 621; advertising --, 486, 580; sale of first lots at --, 479, 480; gravity railroad, 569; opposition of Southern Pacific Railroad to --, 521; -- Ca&ntilde;on, 401, 429; -- hotels, 479, 488, 568; -- Land Co., 486, 488, 586; --, South, 488</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Santa Monica</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Santiago Ca&ntilde;on, 127, 207, 494</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sarah Gamp</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Saratoga mineral waters, 363</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sarco</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Sartori, Joseph F., 143</P>
023.sgm:<P>Saunders &amp; Co., J. B., 371</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sausal Redondo, 382</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Savannah</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Savarie J., 527</P>
023.sgm:<P>Savarots, J. B., 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sawmill, first, 81</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sawtelle, 586</P>
023.sgm:<P>Saxe, H. K., 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Saxon, Thomas A., 501</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scale, fluted, 544</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schaeffer, Henry C. G., 147, 299</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scheller, L. C., 619, 635, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schieck, Dan and Mrs., 117</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schieffelin, Charles L., 396</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schiff, Ludwig, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schiller, Johann Christoph Friedrich, 119</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schlesinger, Herman, 75, 177; -- &amp; Sherwinsky, 76, 177</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schlesinger, Jacob, 350, 471</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schlesinger, Louis, 320, 329</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schlesinger, Moritz, 75, 76, 350</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schliemann, Heinrich, 20</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schloss, Benjamin, 290</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schmitt, H., 491</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schneider, J. M., 536, 638</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scholle Bros., 381</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">School for Scandal,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>School teachers, 163, 402</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schools, 54, 105 ff., 156, 190, 211, 262, 308, 321, 341, 354, 355, 356, 390, 419, 453, 494, 526, 533, 547, 610, 625. 626, 642; --, lack of public money for, 257; -- closed for want of money, 211; dirty --, 262; private --, 106, 225, 257, 341, 494, 563, 622; -- and sectarianism, 269; sewing in --, 547. (See also under Teachers)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schooners, coastwise freight, 65, 152, 170, 237, 276, 290, 331</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schreiber, Emanuel, 608</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schreiber, W. G., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schulze, A. W., 303</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schumacher, Frank G., 39</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schmacher, John, 39, 40, 64, 85, 200, 356, 376, 419, 500; Mrs. --, 39, 40; -- Building, 39, 40</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schumacher, John, Jr., 39, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schurz, Carl, 406</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schwabenverein, 584</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schwarz, Louis, 230</P>
023.sgm:<P>Schwed, Max, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sciscisch, Lucas, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scott Exclusion Act, 468</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scott, Frankie, 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scott, Hattie, 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scott, Jonathan R., 45, 46, 53, 87, 139, 176, 209, 355, 356; Mrs. --, 46</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scott, J. R., Jr., 46</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scott, J. W., 568</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scott, Joseph, 469, 605, 626, 638, 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scott, P. M., 587</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scott &amp; Co., E. L., 153</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scotti, 553 ff.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scripps, E. W., 610</P>
023.sgm:<P>Scully, Thomas J., 610</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sea Bird,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Seabury, Mr., 519</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sea-captains, 10, 11, 12, 22, 46, 65, 66, 121, 152, 153, 154, 226, 251, 276, 308, 311, 312, 320, 352, 359; brutality of --, 352</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sea Eagle,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Search, P. W., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Searles, Moses, 94</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sea Serpent,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Seattle, 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Second Street, 419, 477, 518, 563, 570</P>
023.sgm:<P>Security of property on the desert, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Security Trust and Savings Bank, 358, 631</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sedgwick, Thomas, 397</P>
023.sgm:<P>Seeley, Thomas W., 154, 312, 320</P>
023.sgm:<P>Seligman, Carl, 517, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Semi-Tropical California,</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Semi-Weekly Southern News</HI>
023.sgm: (see under <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Senator,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Sentous, Jean, 78; -- Street, 78</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sentous, Louis, 78</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sentous, Louis, Jr., 78</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Andr&oacute;nico, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Ascenci&oacute;n, 181, 309</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Bernabe, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Diego, 87, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Dolores, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Fernando, 181, 262</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Francisca &Aacute;bila, 309</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Francisca, 100, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, J., 120</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Joaqu&iacute;n, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Jos&eacute; Andr&eacute;s, 57, 97, 104, 160, 181, 206, 210, 309; Se&ntilde;ora --, 160; -- Avenue, 57</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Jos&eacute; del Carmen, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Jos&eacute; Loreto, 71, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Juan, 35, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Juan Mar&iacute;a, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda Landing, 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Maur&iacute;cio, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Miguel, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Petra Pilar, 71</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Ramona, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, R. D., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Tom&aacute;sa, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Tranquilina, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sep&uacute;lveda, Ygn&aacute;cio, 57, 181, 314, 420, 424, 443, 489, 519, 546; Mrs. --, 546</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sequoya League, 542</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Serapes,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Serenades, 184, 467</P>
023.sgm:<P>Serra, Jun&iacute;pero, 88, 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Serrano, Jos&eacute;, 199</P>
023.sgm:<P>Servants, Chinese, 123; Indian --, 124; --, San Francisco agency for, 313</P>
023.sgm:<P>Seventh Infantry Band, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Seventh Street, 472, 535</P>
023.sgm:<P>Severance, Caroline, 473, 566</P>
023.sgm:<P>Severy, Calvin Luther, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Seward, Frederick and Mrs., 397</P>
023.sgm:<P>Seward, William Henry, 49, 339, 397 ff., 440</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sewers, 265, 469, 472</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sexton, Daniel, 254</P>
023.sgm:<P>Seymour, (Johnson) &amp; Co., 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shankland, J. H., 476</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shark hunting, 268, 308</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shasta, proposed State of, 241</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shatto, George R., 568; -- Street, 568</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shaw, Dr. and Mrs., 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shaw, Frederick Merrill, 610</P>
023.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>698</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>682</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Sheep, 167, 216, 218, 220, 310, 322, 332, 362, 374, 381, 419, 437, 445, 507; -- shearing, 362; --, bet on races, 160;--wash, 252</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sherman, John, 547</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sherman, M. H., 612</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sherman, William Tecumseh, 17, 18, 20, 21, 55, 107, 255, 328</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sherman, town of, 382</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sherwinsky, Tobias, 75, 177</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sheward, J. T., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shields, James, 271</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shiloh, Battle of, 295, 316</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shoes and shoemakers, 86, 159, 213</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shoe-String strip, the, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shoo-Fly Landing, 459</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shooting alleys, 402</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shorb, J. de Barth, 169, 302, 445, 483; Mrs. --, 302; -- Station, 169, 302</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shore, John W., 39</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shore, William H., 246</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shrimps, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shrine Auditorium, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Shrubbery, imported from the East, 139</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sichel, Julius, 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sichel, Parisian oculist, 164</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sichel, Philip, 290</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sichel Street, 290</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sidewalks, 20, 34, 211, 226, 229, 287, 343, 518</P>
023.sgm:<P>Side-wheelers, 153</P>
023.sgm:<P>Siemens, Judge, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sierra Madre and Colony, 168, 519, 526, 563, 595; -- Mountains, 526<LB><HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Sigel, Franz, 406</P>
023.sgm:<P>Signal Hill, 374</P>
023.sgm:<P>Signoret, Felix, 137, 420; -- Building, 252, 420</P>
023.sgm:<P>Signs, early, 80, 111; --, painters of, 94</P>
023.sgm:<P>Silent, Charles, 596, 615</P>
023.sgm:<P>Silent, Edward D., 596, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Silk industry, 390; -- worms, 391</P>
023.sgm:<P>Silver, Herman, 594, 595</P>
023.sgm:<P>Silver, supply of in the fifties, 129; -- coins, first from San Francisco mint, 247</P>
023.sgm:<P>Simi Pass, 208</P>
023.sgm:<P>Simmie, J. W., 568</P>
023.sgm:<P>Simmons, John, 335, 439</P>
023.sgm:<P>Simmons, Mrs., nurse, 250</P>
023.sgm:<P>Simpkins, Charles H., 489</P>
023.sgm:<P>Simpson, Frank, 638</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sims, Columbus, 51, 55, 246, 296, 303</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sinsabaugh, H., 552</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sisson, Wallace &amp; Co., 482</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sisters' Hospital, 100, 233, 553</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sisters of Charity, 100, 189, 190, 203; Sister Ana, 190, 210; -- Angela, 290; -- Clara, 190; -- Francisca, 190; -- Mar&iacute;a Corzina, 190; -- Mar&iacute;a Scholastica, 190</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sitka, 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>"Sixteen to One," 613</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sixth District Agricultural Association, 640</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sixth Street, 73, 231, 375, 461, 515</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Skat</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Skinner &amp; Small, 467</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sketchley, Dr., 547</P>
023.sgm:<P>Skull Valley, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>Slaney Bros., 86</P>
023.sgm:<P>Slaughter, F. N., 426</P>
023.sgm:<P>Slauson, James S., 546</P>
023.sgm:<P>Slauson, Jonathan S., 467, 476, 546, 561, 578, 625, 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Slotterback, Henry, 230</P>
023.sgm:<P>Slugs, gold, 130, 160; --, thrown to actors, 186</P>
023.sgm:<P>Small, C. M., 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smallpox, 118, 202, 322, 329, 508</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smeltzer, D. E., 125</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smiley, Albert K., 591</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smiley, Alfred H., 591; -- Heights, 591</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith, Aaron, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith, Charles W., 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith, D. K., 455, 457</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith, Emily R., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith, George, 279</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith, George A., 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith, George H., 351, 363, 443, 521; Mrs. --, 363</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith, Josephine Rosanna, 411</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith, Orrin, 268</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith, William A., 118</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith &amp; McPhee, 567</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smith &amp; Walter, 377</P>
023.sgm:<P>Smoking, 252; -- in the street cars, 463</P>
023.sgm:<P> Smurr, C. F., 561</P>
023.sgm:<P>Snow, 314, 525</P>
023.sgm:<P>Snyder, Meredith P., 469, 613, 638</P>
023.sgm:<P>Soap, first manufacture of, 78</P>
023.sgm:<P>Social customs, 135, 136, 184, 224; 228, 347</P>
023.sgm:<P>Social distinctions, absence of, 185</P>
023.sgm:<P>Social life, simplicity of, 185; --, marked by cordiality, 135, 184, 312, 383</P>
023.sgm:<P>Society Islands, 254</P>
023.sgm:<P>Soda in Owens Lake, 387</P>
023.sgm:<P>Soda water and fountains, 363</P>
023.sgm:<P>S&ouml;derhamn, 4</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sohms, Henry, 340</P>
023.sgm:<P>Solano, Alfredo, 78, 545, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Solano, Francisco, 78</P>
023.sgm:<P>Solar heater, inventor of, 615</P>
023.sgm:<P>Soldiers, 586; -- Home, 143; --, return of, to the Coast, 353</P>
023.sgm:<P>Soledad, 375, 496; -- Pass, 440</P>
023.sgm:<P>Solomon, David, 342, 343</P>
023.sgm:<P>Solomon, M. S., 608</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sombrero,</HI>
023.sgm: 158, 264<LB><HI REND="italics">Song of the Bell, The,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Sonita, 205</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sonora, 42, 90, 205</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sonora Town, 31, 62 ff., 78, 97, 134, 161, 227, 362, 458, 549</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sortorel, Romo, 433</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sound Money League, 613</P>
023.sgm:<P>South Africa, 547</P>
023.sgm:<P>South California, proposed State of, 591</P>
023.sgm:<P>South Pasadena, 178, 448</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southern California, 22, 26, 95, 146, 166 ff., 168, 176, 183, 187, 205, 211, 215, 242, 252, 261, 274, 328, 334, 421, 437, 439, 450, 477, 493, 503, 519, 520, 530, 544, 569, 597, 616, 640, 645, 650; -- in State affairs, 33, 353, 406</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southern California Academy of Science, 599, 640; -- Science Association, 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southern California Architects Association, 470</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southern California Coffee and Spice Mills, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southern California Colony Association, 391</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southern California Fish Co., 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southern California, University of, 566<LB><HI REND="italics">Southern Californian,</HI>
023.sgm: 92, 133, 141, 148, 177, 190, 447<LB><HI REND="italics">Southern News</HI>
023.sgm: (see under <HI REND="italics"> News</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Southern Overland Mail Route, 301</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southern Pacific Railroad Co., 190, 322, 388, 450, 451, 453, 468, 475, 482, 493, 496, 498, 503 ff., 506, 510, 517, 521, 549, 556, 561, 563, 569, 576, 619; threat to cut off Los Angeles, 502; Arcade Depot, 112, 512, 531, 562;</P>
023.sgm:<P>River Station, 531, 562; --, Coast line, 583<LB><HI REND="italics">Southern Vineyard</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Southerner,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Southland, new interest in the, 509</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southside, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southwest Museum, 595, 635, 647, 648</P>
023.sgm:<P>Southwest Society, 542, 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spadra, 89, 144, 330</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spain, King of (Alfonso XIII.), 542; grant from King of Spain, 40</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spaldling, William A., 516, 556, 612</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spanish-American War, 616</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>699</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>683</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Spanish archives, 400; -- drama, 352; -- families, 97; -- Fathers, 101; -- language and names, 56, 93, 133, 170, 262, 308, 315, 354, 371, 422, 528, 563; -- Missions, 102, 326, 398, 520, 542, 589, 604; -- newspapers, 93, 156, 308, 443; -- Mexican restaurants, 133, 178</P>
023.sgm:<P>Speculation during the Boom, mania for, 572</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spence, Edward F., 467, 473, 516, 521, 552, 566</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spencer, William, 609</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spikes, golden, 388, 504</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spiritualism, 483</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sports, 157, 159 ff., 182, 242, 282, 401, 423, 490</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spring Street, 112, 335, 336, 401, 408, 417, 419, 472, 518, 561; --, origin of the name, 336; Spring and Sixth Street Railway, 460 ff.</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sproule, William, 619</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spurgeon, William H., 401</P>
023.sgm:<P>Spurs, 110, 159</P>
023.sgm:<P>Squatters, 382</P>
023.sgm:<P>Squirrels, ground, 24, 163, 215</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stages and staging, 117, 198, 234, 235, 246, 270, 302, 337, 357, 374, 389, 391, 393, 394, 414, 416, 429, 435, 464, 465, 481, 496, 497, 498, 532, 583; coast line, 153; express and mail by stages, 234, 373; staging from San Pedro to Los Angeles, 24, 341, 464; from Los Angeles to San Francisco, 464; stage robberies, 394</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Stamboul,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Stamped envelopes, 291, 374</P>
023.sgm:<P>Standard Wooden Ware Co., 601</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stanford, Leland, 322, 324, 388, 440, 503, 506, 507, 562</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stanley, John Quincy Adams, 35, 43, 44</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Star King,</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Star,</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Star of the West,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Stark &amp; Ryer, 286</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stassforth, H., 303</P>
023.sgm:<P>State divisions, proposed, 188, 241, 520, 521, 591</P>
023.sgm:<P>State moneys, how carried to Sacramento, 260</P>
023.sgm:<P>State Normal School, 532</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stationers, 389</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stealing, Indians prone to, 131</P>
023.sgm:<P>Steam-bath, 371</P>
023.sgm:<P>Steam Navigation Co., 336</P>
023.sgm:<P>Steam separator, first, 384</P>
023.sgm:<P>Steam wagon, 276</P>
023.sgm:<P>Steamers, 237, 290, 346, 366, 395; little --, or tugs, 165, 237, 290, 398; --, affecting schedule of trains, 404; arrival of -- announced by a signal gun, 153; change of names, 152; competition of --, 285, 435; departure of -- affected by high seas, 154, or dependent on whim of captain, 154; express sent by --, 373; -- and mail, 374; Pacific --, 336; coastwise service of --, 22, 149, 152, 154, 210, 300, 311, 312, 336, 381, 432, 436, 460, 465, 486, 506; service often miserable, 336, and inconvenient, 486</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stearns, Abel, 30, 46, 70, 73, 77, 84 ff., 109, 151, 166, 189, 214, 215, 223, 226, 229, 255, 295, 313, 329, 343, 344, 377, 430, 510; -- &amp; Bell, 200; -- carriage, 85; -- Hall, 314, 381, 385, 420, 427; Dona Arcadia -- ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Steele, Harriet, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stephens, Albert M., 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stephens, William Dennison, 600, 638</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stereopticon, early used in advertising, 499</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stern, Alfred, 43</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stern, Charles, F., 43</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stettin, Germany, 3, 4</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stevens &amp; Wood, 363</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stevenson, J. D., &amp; --'s Regiment, 39, 49, 94, 476</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stewart, George H., 607, 613</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stewart, William M., 479</P>
023.sgm:<P>Still, William G., 283, 333</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stock breeding, 427</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stockholm, 5</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stockton, Robert Field, 24, 100, 178</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stockton, William M., 199</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stoermer, August, 147</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stoll, H. W., 363, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stoll, Philip, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stone, artificial, 490</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stoneman, George H., 394, 441, 443, 488, 499, 503, 528, 540, 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>Storke, C. A., 450</P>
023.sgm:<P>Storms, off Newfoundland, 11; of 1856, 194; incidental to earthquakes, 312</P>
023.sgm:<P>Story, Francis Quarles, 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stovell, Thomas, 568</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stower, John S., 230</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Stranded Bugle, The,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Strassburg, 564; University of --, 598</P>
023.sgm:<P>Straus, Isadore and Mrs., 644</P>
023.sgm:<P>Strauss, Mr., 627</P>
023.sgm:<P>Strauss, Levi &amp; Co., 381</P>
023.sgm:<P>Strawberries, 125, 428</P>
023.sgm:<P>Street of the Maids, 63, 159</P>
023.sgm:<P>Street railways: first (Spring &amp; Sixth Street), 460, 461, 609; second (Main Street line), 389, 462; tickets, how sold, 461; transfers, 462; first double-track, 562</P>
023.sgm:<P>Streets, lighting of, 34, 68, 267, 349, 400, 408; --, bad condition of, 34, 307, 584; --, filled with refuse, 34; --, neglect of, 83; --, ungraded, 34; street numbers, absence of, 80; -- parades in, 338, 499 ff., 528, 529; street-scenes, 222; -- sprinklers, 416</P>
023.sgm:<P>Strelitz Block, 511, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stroble, Max von, 346, 406</P>
023.sgm:<P>Strobridge, George F., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Strohm, Thomas, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Strong, Charles, 416</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stuart, J. H., 203</P>
023.sgm:<P>Stubbs, J. C., 504, 619</P>
023.sgm:<P>Subdividing and subdivisions, 292, 376, 570, 572 ff.</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sued-Californische Post,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Suffrage Convention, Equal, 13</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sugar-beets, 388, 598; beet-sugar refining, 388, 598</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sugranes, Eugene, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sulky, pioneer, 71</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sullivan, Arthur, 547</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sultana,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Summer outings, 429, 481</P>
023.sgm:<P>Summers, Emma A., 603</P>
023.sgm:<P>Summit Creek, 155</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sumner, Edwin V., 294, 316</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sumter, Fort, 266, 294, 616</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sundsvall, 4</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sunny Slope, 200</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sunset Oil Co., 379</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sun Yat Sen, 645</P>
023.sgm:<P>Superintendent of Schools, 105, 106, 389, 390, 419, 452, 526, 642; office once vacant, 396</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Supply,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Supreme Court, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Surgeons and early surgery, 108, 110, 297</P>
023.sgm:<P>Surveyors and surveys, 33, 34, 36, 38, 112, 149, 411</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sutter, John A., 476; --'s Creek, 39</P>
023.sgm:<P>Swamps, 112</P>
023.sgm:<P>Swansea, Wales, 388</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sweden, 2, 3, 6, 336, 564, 621</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sweet-potatoes, 126</P>
023.sgm:<P>Switching-charge case, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Switzer, Carrie, xii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Switzer (Sweitzer), C. P., 543; --'s Camp, 543</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>700</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>684</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Switzerland, 336, 398</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sycamore Grove, 401, 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Sycamore tree, 126, 197, 401, 543<LB><HI REND="italics">Sydney Ware, race</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Sylvester, John, 58</P>
023.sgm:<P>T</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tacoma, 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Taft, William H., banquet to, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tag, game of, 596</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tahoe Lake, 477</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tailors, 338; American --, 159; Mexican --, 159</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tajo Building, 90</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tally, Thomas L., 443; --`s Theater, 443<LB><HI REND="italics">Tamales,</HI>
023.sgm: 134, 277, 391; <HI REND="italics">tamale</HI>
023.sgm: vender, 391, 629<LB><HI REND="italics">Tanner,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Tannery, 82; attempt to establish a --, 269</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tap&iacute;a, Luciano, 206, 210</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tatooing, by Indians, 218</P>
023.sgm:<P>Taxes, 298, 333, 446; --, property sold for delinquent, 334, 443; --, delinquent during Boom, 582; --, not collected, 328</P>
023.sgm:<P>Taylor, Benjamin Franklin, 514</P>
023.sgm:<P>Taylor, W. J., 412</P>
023.sgm:<P>Teachers, 47, 92, 105 ff., 111, 141, 163, 190, 257, 263, 308, 331, 355, 356, 373, 389, 390, 402, 419, 473, 494, 532, 539, 610; first woman public school teacher, 47, Teachers; Institute, first, 418</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tecate, 424</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tedro, Philip, 222</P>
023.sgm:<P>Teed, M., 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tefft, Henry A., 56</P>
023.sgm:<P>Teh&aacute;chepi, 44, 440, 582; disaster near --, 536</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tej&oacute;n, Fort, 46, 204, 222, 234, 248, 297, 317, 327, 333; -- Band, 157; -- Paso, 58</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tejunga Pass, 208, 454; -- <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Telegram, Evening</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Telegram, &dollar;75 to U. S. Senate, 503</P>
023.sgm:<P>Telegraph, electric, and telegraphing, 234, 271, 283 ff., 305, 307, 308, 411; rates, 401; undeveloped --, 9; first wire into a business office, 425; shortage of wire, 284; wireless --, 624, 643</P>
023.sgm:<P>Telegraph Stage Line, 496, 497</P>
023.sgm:<P>Telephone, 560; --, first introduction here, 531</P>
023.sgm:<P>Telescopes, astronomical, 566</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tell, Will, and Tell's Place, 429, 460, 490, 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tem&eacute;cula, 124, 234</P>
023.sgm:<P>Temescal mines, 272, 302</P>
023.sgm:<P>Temple Auditorium, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>Temple, Francis Phinney Fisk, 67, 167, 274, 282, 292, 317, 328, 372, 435, 441, 454, 479; known as <HI REND="italics">Templito,</HI>
023.sgm: 167, 292; death of, 167, 479, 520; -- <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Temple, John (Juan), 37, 66 ff., 74, 80, 122, 129, 139, 159, 165, 229, 240, 256, 258, 263, 287, 291, 302; Mrs. --, 67; -- Building (adobe), 67, 78, 291, 343, 372; -- Court House, 67, 339, 449; --Market, 240, 294; -- <HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Temple Block, 32, 67, 229, 273, 279, 300, 312, 364, 410, 435, 462, 490, 510, 519, 524, 534, 596</P>
023.sgm:<P>Terminal Island, 601</P>
023.sgm:<P>Terminal Railroad, 601</P>
023.sgm:<P>Terry, David S., 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Teschemacher, H. F., 284</P>
023.sgm:<P>Teutonia, 214, 338; -- Hall, 426; -- Concordia, 259, 428</P>
023.sgm:<P>Texans, 91; exodus to Texas, 266</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thackeray, William Makepeace, 118</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thayer, John S., 545</P>
023.sgm:<P>Theaters, 185, 543, 559; John Temple's Theater, 240, 263, 286, 318; Merced Theater, 103, 186, 422, 443, 450; Rough and Ready Theater, 286: Spanish theater, 352, 422; theatrical plays postponed, 286</P>
023.sgm:<P>Theodore Bros., 87</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thirty-Eights, firemen, 356, 446, 464, 500</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thirty-fifth parallel, 285, 399, 440</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thom, Cameron E., 45, 49, 51, 52, 139, 146, 172, 224, 228, 295, 339, 347, 383, 434, 446, 481, 488, 521, 565, 587; Mrs. -- (first wife, <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm: Hathwell), 52; Mrs, -- (second wife, <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Thomas, Bill, 404</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thomas, Frank J., 596, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thompson, Captain, 226</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thompson, Ira W., 91, 196, 218, 251</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thompson, James, 181, 208, 246</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thompson, J. S., 505; Mrs. --, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thompson, Judge, 457</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thompson, P., 405</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thompson, Robert, 432, 433, 434</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thompson, S. S., 120</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thorn, A. O., 357</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thornton, Harry I., 146</P>
023.sgm:<P>Threadneedle Street, 407</P>
023.sgm:<P>Three-fingered Jack, 58</P>
023.sgm:<P>Throop, Amos G. ("Father"), 599; -- College of Technology, 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thurman, H. L., 92</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thurman, J. S., 92</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thurman, S. D., 92</P>
023.sgm:<P>Thwaites, Reuben Gold, xii</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tibbetts, Jonathan, 91</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tibbetts, L. C., 451</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tichenor, H. B., 380, 467</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tiffany, George A., 427, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tiffany &amp; Wethered, 267</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tilden, A. F., 273</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tilden, Samuel J., 297, 323, 591</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tileston, Emery &amp; Co., 384</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
023.sgm:, Los Angeles, 373, 444, 482, 530, 533, 541, 556, 583, 590, 591, 612, 616, 617, 636, 646; Times-Mirror Co., 533, 555, 556, 557; the Times Building, 453; --, destruction of, 641; <HI REND="italics">Times Magazine,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Timms, Augustus W., 23, 342, 500, 522; -- Cove, 522; -- Landing, 23, 237, 522; -- Point, 522</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tipton, 496</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tischler, Hyman, 75, 329, 330; -- &amp; Schlesinger, 229<LB><HI REND="italics">Titanic,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Titus, L. H., 200, 423, 426, 445, 591, 593</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tivoli Garden, 273, 340; -- Opera House, 559</P>
023.sgm:<P>Toasts, old-fashioned, 399</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tobacco, 253, 505, 649; -- growing, 252; indulgence in --, by women, 253</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tohermann, James R., 330, 372, 373, 445, 446, 535; -- Street, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Todd, Surgeon, 321</P>
023.sgm:<P>Toland, Dr. H. H., 319</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tomatoes, early, 428</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tom Gray Ranch, 357</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tomlinson, J. J., 23, 42, 236, 274, 290, 370, 371; -- &amp; Co., 337, 342; -- &amp; Griffith, 420; -- corral gate, 327, 420, 433</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tonner, P. C., 419<LB><HI REND="italics">Toreador,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Torne&aring;, 5</P>
023.sgm:<P>Toros, 414</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tors, Calle de, 161</P>
023.sgm:<P>Torrance, Jared S., 647; -- Tower, 648<LB><HI REND="italics">Tortillas</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Tourists, great influx of, 570</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tournament Park, Pasadena, 592; Tournament of Roses Association, 592</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>701</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>685</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Town ball, 596</P>
023.sgm:<P>Town, R. M., 472</P>
023.sgm:<P>Towns, frenzied founding of, 570</P>
023.sgm:<P>Townsend, B. A., 23</P>
023.sgm:<P>Trafford, Thomas, 326, 418</P>
023.sgm:<P>Transatlantic travel, 10 ff., 67, 163, 164, 360, 564, 621</P>
023.sgm:<P>Trask, D. K., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Travel, difficulties of railway, 393, 496</P>
023.sgm:<P>Treadwell and Treadwell Mines, 602</P>
023.sgm:<P>Treasure, digging for, 254</P>
023.sgm:<P>Trees, 269, 291, 388; --, dearth of early, 162, 291; Mariposa big --; 272; --, objection to watering, 163; --, sacrificed for fuel, 141</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Trenza de sus Cabellos, la,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Tres Pinos, 453, 457</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tribune, Daily,</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tribune,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Trinity Methodist Church, corner-stone opening, 474</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tropical life, 15</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tropico, 547</P>
023.sgm:<P>Truck, first flat, 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Truck gardening, 124, 125</P>
023.sgm:<P>Truckee River, 370</P>
023.sgm:<P>Trudell, Jean B., 132, Mrs. -- (formerly, Mrs. Henry Mellus), 133</P>
023.sgm:<P>Truman, Ben C., 361, 394, 441, 446, 447, 483, 498, 605, 607, 612, 636; Mrs. --, 361, 612</P>
023.sgm:<P>Truth, native shyness of, 131</P>
023.sgm:<P>Truxton, 460</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tuch, Nathan, 89</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tucson, 301, 317, 375, 504</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tuffree, J. R., 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tulare County, 188</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tules, 112</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tuna, canned, 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tunnels, 496, 502, 504, 622; made and needed, 623</P>
023.sgm:<P>Turck, W. I., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Turkey, mammoth, 423</P>
023.sgm:<P>Turner, Joel H., 379, 388, 398, 399</P>
023.sgm:<P>Turner, John, 87</P>
023.sgm:<P>Turner, William, 500</P>
023.sgm:<P>Turner, William F., 87, 470; Mrs. --, 470</P>
023.sgm:<P>Turntable, first railroad, 397</P>
023.sgm:<P>Turnverein, 214, 272, 402, 409, 410, 428, 623; -- Building, first, 428; -- Block, 192; Turnverein-Germania, 428, 584, 629; -- Hall, 192, 526, 529, 533, 573, 584, 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tustin (Tustin City), 181, 577</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tustin, Columbus, 577, 578</P>
023.sgm:<P>Twain, Mark, 32</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tweed, William Marcy, 590</P>
023.sgm:<P>"Twenty-five Years Ago To-day," 623</P>
023.sgm:<P>Twist, W. W., 147, 209</P>
023.sgm:<P>Twitchell, C&aelig;sar C., 106</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Two Years before the Mast,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Typewriter, first, 497</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ty, Sing, 433</P>
023.sgm:<P>Tyson's Wells, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>U</P>
023.sgm:<P>Uhrie, Marie, 39</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ulyard, August, 77, 191, 287, 481; Mrs. --, 77</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ume&aring;, 4</P>
023.sgm:<P>Unangst, E. P. and Mrs., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Union Hardware and Metal Co., 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Union League, 338; -- Club, Philadelphia, 498</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Union,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Union Warehouse, 288</P>
023.sgm:<P>Union &amp; Texas Pacific Railroad, 486</P>
023.sgm:<P>Unionists, 224, 296, 306, 321, 333, 339, 341; --, San Francisco, 339</P>
023.sgm:<P>United States and North America, 399</P>
023.sgm:<P>United States Army and officers, 166, 171, 173, 221, 224, 247, 271, 272, 297, 303, 341, 358; headquarters, 246, 265, 297, 299, 301, 311, 321, 341, 358, 517, 587</P>
023.sgm:<P>United States Circuit Court, 565; -- District Court, first judge, 279</P>
023.sgm:<P>United States Government, 299, 308, 311, 321, 339, 353, 426, 435, 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>United States Hotel, 149, 244, 279, 303, 380, 397, 469, 481, 581</P>
023.sgm:<P>Universal City, 344</P>
023.sgm:<P>University of California, 403, 536, 624, 631</P>
023.sgm:<P>University of Chicago, 567</P>
023.sgm:<P>University of Southern California, 516, 536, 548</P>
023.sgm:<P>University Place, 609</P>
023.sgm:<P>Unruh, H. A., 475</P>
023.sgm:<P>Upper Main Street, 63, 159</P>
023.sgm:<P>Usurers, 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Utah, 507, 301, 330</P>
023.sgm:<P>V</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vacination, opposition to, 118, 322</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vach&eacute;, Adolphe, 281</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vach&eacute;, &Eacute;mile, 280; -- Fr&egrave;res, 280, 548</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vach&eacute;, Th&eacute;ophile, 280; -- &amp; Co., T., 281</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vail, W. L., 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Valdez, Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;, 58</P>
023.sgm:<P>Valle, Ant&oacute;nio, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vallejo, General, 263</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Valor of Ignorance, The,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Vandever, William, 591</P>
023.sgm:<P>Van Dyke, Walter, 596</P>
023.sgm:<P>Van Dyke, William M., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Van Gilpin, Professor, 373</P>
023.sgm:<P>Van Nuys, Isaac Newton, 381, 421, 493, 514, 515, 537, 607; -- Building, 515; -- Hotel, 340</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Vaquero,</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Vaqueros,</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Vara,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Varela, Serbo, 266</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vasquez, Tib&uacute;rcio, 223, 453 ff., 471, 517; --, recipient, in cell, of flowers, 458; --, executed, 458</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vassallo, Francicso, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vawter, E. J., 481</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vawter, William D., 481</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vawter, W. S., 481</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vegetables, 88, 124 ff., 192, 272, 317, 332, 428, 504, 514, 552; -- peddled to steamers, 12</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vejar, John C., 147</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vejar, Richardo, 174, 178, 200, 329; -- Vineyard, 474</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vejar, Soledad, 147</P>
023.sgm:<P>Velardes, Francisco, 159</P>
023.sgm:<P>Velocipedes, 384</P>
023.sgm:<P>Venice, 627, 630</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ventura (see San Buenaventura)</P>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Ventura,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Ventura County, 22, 599</P>
023.sgm:<P>Verandas, 113</P>
023.sgm:<P>Verde, Cape, 123</P>
023.sgm:<P>Verdugo Ca&ntilde;on, 424; -- Casa, 178</P>
023.sgm:<P>Verdugo family, 177</P>
023.sgm:<P>Verdugo, Guillermo, 178</P>
023.sgm:<P>Verdugo, Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;ia, 177; -- <HI REND="italics">rancho,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Verdugo, Julio, 178</P>
023.sgm:<P>Verdugo, Julio Chrisostino, 178</P>
023.sgm:<P>Verdugo, Victoriano, 178</P>
023.sgm:<P>Verelo, Miguel, 427</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vergara, Manuel, 35</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vernon, 575, 609</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vernon Avenue, 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vernondale, 575</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vickery &amp; Hinds, 550</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vielle, Louis, 369</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vigilance Committees, 66, 139, 147, 207 ff., 324 ff., 419; --, San Francisco, 21, 54, 340</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vignes, Jean Louis, 62, 89, 100, 108, 171, 190, 197, 198, 200, 312; -- Street, 198</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vignolo &amp; Sanguinetti, 550</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>702</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>686</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Villard, Henry, 539</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vineyard, James F., 143</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vineyard, Lake, 169, 306<LB><HI REND="italics">Vineyard, Southern,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Vineyards, 25, 103, 112, 132, 142, 162, 197 ff., 200, 213, 233, 238, 249, 265, 281, 286, 292, 293, 300, 337, 363, 378, 398, 445, 474, 610; -- affected by floods, 309; mother vineyard, 199</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vintage, 294</P>
023.sgm:<P>Virgen, P. J., 34; -- Street, 34</P>
023.sgm:<P>Virgenes, Calle de las, 159</P>
023.sgm:<P>Virgin Bay, 16</P>
023.sgm:<P>Virginia City, Nevada, 477</P>
023.sgm:<P>Visalia, 270, 234; -- and the Southern Pacific, 503</P>
023.sgm:<P>Visiting, 81</P>
023.sgm:<P>Visitors, commotion caused by, 137</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vista del Arroya, 532</P>
023.sgm:<P>Voting precinct, first, 41</P>
023.sgm:<P>Vulture Mines, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>W</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wachtel, J. V., 589</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wackerbarth, August, xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wade, K. H., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wadhams, Collins, 76; -- &amp; Foster, 76</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wagons, 24, 83; --, bet on races, 161;--, used for gallows, 433; -- from Salt Lake, 187; spring-wagon, 85; wagon-trains, 242, 322, 354</P>
023.sgm:<P>Waite, Alonzo, 306, 315, 350, 380, 443, 446</P>
023.sgm:<P>Waldeck, Jacob E., 605</P>
023.sgm:<P>Waldron, Dave, 462, 463</P>
023.sgm:<P>Walker, Frank, 615</P>
023.sgm:<P>Walker, Irving M., 355</P>
023.sgm:<P>Walker, William, 21, 54, 407</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wall Street, 448</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wallace, William A., 106, 192</P>
023.sgm:<P>Waller, G. M., 512</P>
023.sgm:<P>Walleria, 579</P>
023.sgm:<P>Walnut seed, black, 163</P>
023.sgm:<P>Walters, George, 63</P>
023.sgm:<P>Walther, F. G., 388</P>
023.sgm:<P>Walton, Charles S., 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ward, Ben E., 580</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ward, Mrs. J. T., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ward, John, 83</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wards, London publishers, 631</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ware, Jim, 268</P>
023.sgm:<P>Warehouses, 288</P>
023.sgm:<P>Warner, Charles Dudley, 597</P>
023.sgm:<P>Warner, Jonathan Trumbull (Juan Jos&eacute;), 169, 170, 224, 256, 323, 372, 426, 501, 515, 541, 578, 609; --, Mrs., 170; --`s Ranch, 169, 234, 294, 542</P>
023.sgm:<P>Warren, William C., 221, 327, 339, 418</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wartenberg, Henry, 61, 405, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Washburn, W. J., 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Washburne, Elihu B., 360</P>
023.sgm:<P>Washing clothes, mode of, 117; --, in the river, 117</P>
023.sgm:<P>Washington, Colonel, 183</P>
023.sgm:<P>Washington Gardens, 447, 462, 463, 547</P>
023.sgm:<P>Washington, George and Martha, 500; --`s Birthday Celebrations, 147, 264</P>
023.sgm:<P>Washington Street, 474</P>
023.sgm:<P>Washoe Gold Fields, 333</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wass Molitor &amp; Co., 130</P>
023.sgm:<P>Watchmakers, 68, 213, 235, 356</P>
023.sgm:<P>Water, 211, 355, 360, 365, 370, 372, 418, 446, 533, 613, 618; -- Commissioner, 116; -- Companies, 366, 377, 384, 418, 446, 454, 495, 509, 534; -- dam, 372; -- ditch, Child's 231; domestic -- supply, 116, 117; --, Los Angeles River, 116; water system, nucleus of, 210; --, objection to use of, 163; --, peddling of, 116, 117, 350; -- pipes, iron, 377, 384, 445; -- pipes, wooden, 211, 350, 366; --, pollution of, 116; --, scarcity of, 114; --, stealing of, 125; --, <HI REND="italics">zanja,</HI>
023.sgm:<P> Watermelons, 126, 563; seeds of, for medicinal uses, 127</P>
023.sgm:<P>Waters, James, 63</P>
023.sgm:<P>Waters, Russell Judson, 605</P>
023.sgm:<P>Watkins, Commodore, 306</P>
023.sgm:<P>Watson, James A., 139, 174, 318</P>
023.sgm:<P>Way, Daniel E., 318</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weapons, carrying, 224; --, forbidden, 348</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weather prophets, 126, 421</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weaver Diggings, 321</P>
023.sgm:<P>Webber &amp; Haas, 244, 303</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weber, shoemaker, 86</P>
023.sgm:<P>Webster, Daniel, 93, 650</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weddings, 136, 224, 347, 410, 464, 538, 636, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weed, Edward A., 548<LB><HI REND="italics">Weekly Mirror</HI>
023.sgm:, see under <HI REND="italics">Mirror</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Weidner, Perry W., 634, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weil, Alexander, 565</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weil, Alphonse, 551</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weil, Jacob, 91</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weiner, Captain, 150</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weinschank, Andrew A., 453</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weinschank, Caroline, 453</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weinschank, Frank A., 453</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weixel, Jacob, 115</P>
023.sgm:<P>Welch, J. C., 109, 320</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wells Fargo &amp; Co., 39, 57, 111, 201, 233, 241, 245, 260, 261, 280, 313, 320, 330, 373 ff., 395, 410, 475</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wells, G. Wiley, 517</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wesley Avenue, 462, 516</P>
023.sgm:<P>West, B. R., 318</P>
023.sgm:<P>Western Union Telegraph Co., 411</P>
023.sgm:<P>Westlake district, 629; -- Park, 349, 609; -- subdivision, 112</P>
023.sgm:<P>Westminster, 177; -- Hotel, 419</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weston, Olive E., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>West Prussia, 1</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weyse. H. G., 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weyse, Julius, 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weyse, Otto G., and Mrs., 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Weyse, Rudolf G., 202; Mrs. --, 142, 202</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whaling, 268, 308</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wharf, Long, San Francisco, 21, 89, 199; --, Port Los Angeles, 468</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wharf, Santa Monica, 485</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wharves, absence of, 19, 22, 56</P>
023.sgm:<P>What Cheer House, 369</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wheat, 332, 381, 493</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wheat, A. C., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wheeler, Horace Z., 38, 218</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wheeler, John Ozias, 38, 133, 218, 249, 279, 373, 379, 462, 529, 562; -- Bros., 38</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wheeler, Mary Esther, 106, 373</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wheelwrights, 82, 84, 115, 153, 239, 358, 384</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whigs, 91</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whipping post, 66</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whipple Barracks, Arizona, 587</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whisky Flat, 357</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whist, 230</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whitcomb, George, 576</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whitcomb, Ledora, 576</P>
023.sgm:<P>White, Caleb E., 512</P>
023.sgm:<P>White, Charles H., 452, 556</P>
023.sgm:<P>White, Jennie, 185, 436</P>
023.sgm:<P>White, Michael, 87, 90</P>
023.sgm:<P>White House, 219, 342, 618; --, hotel, 418, 552</P>
023.sgm:<P>White Pine, Nevada, 424</P>
023.sgm:<P>White River, 414</P>
023.sgm:<P>White, Stephen M., 467, 553 ff., 565, 596, 597, 607; --, monument to, 468</P>
023.sgm:<P>White, Thomas J., 107, 185, 200, 267, 356, 436</P>
023.sgm:<P>White, T. Jeff, 185</P>
023.sgm:<P>White's Point, 624</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whitman, George N., 43</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>703</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>687</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Whittier, John Greenleaf, 576; -- , town of, 180, 374, 555, 576, 620; --, origin of name, 489</P>
023.sgm:<P>Whitworth, James H., 250</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wholesalers' Board of Trade, 538</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wickenberg, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wicks, Moye, 477</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wicks, Moses Langley, 476, 540</P>
023.sgm:<P>Widney, Joseph P., 370, 423, 457, 483, 501, 516, 521, 529, 548, 589</P>
023.sgm:<P>Widney, Robert Maclay, 370, 401, 412, 426, 434, 442, 449, 460, 483, 489, 503, 515, 521; Mrs. __, 634</P>
023.sgm:<P>Widney, Samuel A., 311</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wiebecke's beer garden, Frau, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wiebers, D., 601, 635, 637</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wiggin, Kate Douglas, 474</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wiggins, Frank, 607, 634, 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wigmore, George H., 619</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilburn, Robert, 275</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilcox, Henry, 472, 473</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wild animals, first, 463</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilde, Charles L., xvi</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wiley, H. C., 180, 395, 492; Mrs. --, 180, 493</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilhart, Louis, 82, 200</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wikins, Charles, 327</P>
023.sgm:<P>Willard, Charles Dwight, vii, 543, 545, 607, 619, 635, 646; Mrs. --, 646, 647</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilhartitz, Adolph, 625</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williams, Francisca, 168, 347</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williams, George, 348</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williams, George, grocer, 551</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williams, Hiram, 197</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williams, J. A. &amp; Co., 613</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williams, Julian Isaac, 38, 167, 168, 197, 226, 263, 326, 347, 598, 617; --, Mrs., 347</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williams, Mar&iacute;a Merced, 168</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williamson, George, 379</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williamsoo, Mariana, 444</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williamson, Mrs. M. Burton, 603</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williamson, Nels, 82, 444</P>
023.sgm:<P>Williamson Tract, 573</P>
023.sgm:<P>Willmore, W. E., 521; -- City, 521</P>
023.sgm:<P>Willows, 126, 198, 212, 329, 614</P>
023.sgm:<P>Willow Springs, 414</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wills, Mrs. Charlotte LeMoyne, 567</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wills, John A., 567</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wills, W. LeMoyne, 363, 567, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilmington, 218, 236, 247, 299, 301, 311, 321, 326, 342, 353, 363, 366, 375, 376, 381, 384, 389, 393 ff., 397, 402, 404, 506, 520, 548, 637, 638; --, charge for hauling from, 343; -- Harbor, 426; -- shipping, 236; --, Southern Pacific Railroad influence in favor of, 521; -- Street, 551; -- Transportation Co., 568<LB><HI REND="italics">Wilmington Journal</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Wilmington, Delaware, 236</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilshire, H. G., 580; -- Boulevard, 580</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilshire, W. B., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilshire district, 379: -- subdivision, 112</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilson, Benjamin (Benito) Davis 63, 168, 172, 175, 190, 200, 241, 302, 306, 316, 320, 322, 346, 363, 412, 440, 445, 451: Mrs. --, ( <HI REND="italics">n&eacute;e</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Wilson, Bob, 248</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilson, C. N., 541</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilson, Emmet H., 626</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilson, John, 28, 428</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilson, Peter (Bully), 279, 429</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilson, Ruth, 363</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wilson's Station, 415</P>
023.sgm:<P>Windmills, 460</P>
023.sgm:<P>Windstorms, 336</P>
023.sgm:<P>Windward Passage, 14</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wine cellars, 294; -- gardens, 193</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wineries, wine-making and wines, 134, 200, 202, 203, 219, 233, 238, 239, 265, 280, 294, 369, 407<LB><HI REND="italics">Winfield Scott</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Winston, James B., 107, 108, 109, 183, 245, 255, 346, 380; Mrs. --, 183, 255; -- &amp; Co., J. B., 316; -- &amp; Hodges, 26, 92; -- &amp; King, 380<LB><HI REND="italics">Wireless</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Wise, K. D., 457</P>
023.sgm:<P>Witmer, Henry Clay, 563</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wolfenstein, V., 364</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wolfskill, John, 170; -- Tract, 586</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wolfskill, Joseph, 212, 263</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wolfskill, Juana, 142</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wolfskill, Louis, 170, 174, 263, 439</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wolfskill, Magdalena, 171</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wolfskill, Mateo, 170, 171</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wolfskill, Timoteo, 72</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wolfskill, William, 72, 89, 106, 112, 125, 142, 163, 170, 174, 187, 199, 201, 211, 212, 219, 229, 244, 286, 326, 336, 357, 394, 439; Mrs. --, 171; -- Building, 362; -- Lane, 485; -- orange grove, 212; -- ranch and subdivision, 544; -- Road, 273; -- Tract, 562; -- Vineyard, 201</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wollweber, Theodore, 201, 291</P>
023.sgm:<P>Woman's Gun, 101; -- rights, 278</P>
023.sgm:<P>Women's clubs, 473, 600, 607; --, open air meeting of, 409</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wood as fuel, 37, 141</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wood, lynching of, 324, 327</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wood, C. Modini, 529; -- Mrs. (see under Perry)</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wood, F. W., 606</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wood, John, 463; --'s Opera House, 463; --`s Band, 499</P>
023.sgm:<P>Woodworth, Alice, 142</P>
023.sgm:<P>Woodworth, John D., 231, 445</P>
023.sgm:<P>Woodworth, Samuel, 231</P>
023.sgm:<P>Woodworth, Wallace, 81, 231, 263; --, Mrs., 200, 263</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wool, and the wool-craze, 288, 421, 437 ff., 628; woolen mills, 450, 511</P>
023.sgm:<P>Woolacott, H. J., 79, 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Woolwine, Thomas Lee, 111</P>
023.sgm:<P>Woolwine, W. D., 607</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wooster Street congregation, New York, 122</P>
023.sgm:<P>Worden, Perry, viii., 119</P>
023.sgm:<P>Workman, Ant&oacute;nia Margarita, 167</P>
023.sgm:<P>Workman, Boyle, 233</P>
023.sgm:<P>Workman, David and Mrs., 132</P>
023.sgm:<P>Workman, Elijah H., 132, 269, 417</P>
023.sgm:<P>Workman, Thomas H., 42, 132, 142, 320; Mrs. --, 142</P>
023.sgm:<P>Workman, William, 132, 172, 205, 242, 317, 353, 372, 479, 494</P>
023.sgm:<P>Workman, William H., 42, 43, 132, 141, 202, 224, 232, 256, 269, 349, 419, 481, 561, 587, 589, 594, 598, 629, 630; -- Bros., 291; -- Street, 132</P>
023.sgm:<P>Workman, William H., Jr., 233</P>
023.sgm:<P>Works, John D., 517; -- &amp; Lee, 517</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wright, E. T., 568</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wright, George, 436</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wright, John H., 358</P>
023.sgm:<P>Wright, J. T., 285</P>
023.sgm:<P>Y<LB><HI REND="italics">Yankee Doodle</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Yankee notions, 218</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yarnell, George, 427; -- &amp; Caystile, --, Caystile &amp; Brown, 444; --, Caystile &amp; Mathes, 530, 533</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yarnell, Jesse, 427</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yarrow, Henry G., 76</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yates, J. D., 78, 279</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yates, Mary D., 79</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ybarra, Francisco, 457</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yeast powders, 346</P>
023.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>704</CONTROLPGNO>
023.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>688</PRINTPGNO>
023.sgm:<P>Yellow fever, 14, 359</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yellow tail, 127</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yerba Buena, 49</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yorba, Bernardo, 169, 177, 212, 238</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yorba, Jos&eacute; Ant&oacute;nio, 181</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yorba, Josefa, 103</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yorba, Ramona, 169</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yost, Robert M., 628</P>
023.sgm:<P>Young, Brigham, 156, 218, 345, 498</P>
023.sgm:<P>Young, Ewing, 170, 187</P>
023.sgm:<P>Young, Frances, 143</P>
023.sgm:<P>Ystad, 3, 4</P>
023.sgm:<P>Yuma, Fort, 35, 74, 205, 234, 247, 274, 283, 294, 301, 343, 375, 514</P>
023.sgm:<P>Z</P>
023.sgm:<P>Zahn, Johann Carl, 430</P>
023.sgm:<P>Zahn, Oswald F., 430</P>
023.sgm:<P>Zahn, Otto J., 430<LB><HI REND="italics">Zanjas,</HI>
023.sgm: 88, 115, 119, 125, 210, 218, 265, 322, 364, 472, 548, 573; <HI REND="italics">zanja madre</HI>
023.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Zanjero,</HI>
023.sgm:<P>Zarate, Felipe, 424</P>
023.sgm:<P>Zeehandelaar, Felix J., 607, 611, 639</P>
023.sgm:<P>Zeppelin, Ferdinand, 561</P>
023.sgm:<P>Zola, &Eacute;mile, 451</P>
025.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-025</TITLE>
025.sgm:<TITLE>Seventy-five years in California; a history of events and life in California: personal, political and military; under the Mexican regime; during the quasi-military government of the territory by the United States, and after the admission of the state to the union: being a compilation by a witness of the events described; a reissue and enlarged illustrated edition of "Sixty years in California", to which much new matter by its author has been added which he contemplated publishing under the present title at the time of his death; edited and with an historical foreward and index by Douglas S. Watson.  By William Heath Davis: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
025.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
025.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
025.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
025.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
025.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
025.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
025.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
025.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>29-12612</LCCN>
025.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
025.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 9475</COPYRIGHT>
025.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P><illus entity="a025-001A" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>THE first habitation in Yerba Buena, a tent dwelling erected in 1835 by Capt. Wm. A. Richardson, at the corner of Clay and Dupont streets, occupied the site of No. 18 on the view map. In July, 1836, Jacob Primer Leese built the first house, just south of Richardson's location. The residence and place of business of William Heath Davis, author of "Seventy-five Years in California," is marked No. 7. Yerba Buena Cove appears in its natural condition with the waters of the Bay nearly touching Montgomery Street. The Laguna Salada, or Saltwater Lagoon, now almost forgotten, is shown where Montgomery and Jackson streets cross. It was over this tidal inlet that William S. Hinckley, when Alcade, built the first bridge in California in 1844. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This rare view of the San Francisco of 1846-7 fittingly illustrates the early days of the city which William Heath Davis describes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>To the north of the home of Wm. A. Leidesdorff--No. 11--Wm. Heath Davis built the first brick building of more than one story in California in 1849, leasing it to the U. S. Treasury for a custom house. The flagpole upon which Capt. John B. Montgomery raised the American flag July 9, 1846, was removed from the Plaza in 1850 and re-erected in front of the Davis building, where it was destroyed by the fire of May 4, 1851. California Street was laid out by Jasper O'Farrell, who enlarged the survey of the town made by Jean Jacques Vioget in 1839. The Davis custom house occupied the northwest corner of Montgomery and California streets. The small structure which forms the corner of Montgomery and Clay streets is the famous "Kent Hall." This was the first building near the beach; a deckhouse from the ship "Kent." </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>SEVENTY-FIVE YEARS  IN CALIFORNIA </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>N FRANCISCO<LB>1849<LB>DRAWN ON THE SPOT BY HENRY FIRKS<LB>LATEST EDITION CORRECTED BY A COMMITTEE OF PIONEERS CONSISTING OF RICHARD M. SHERMAN  WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS FERDINAND VASSAULT</P>
025.sgm:<P>1 Am. Sh. Huntress<LB>2 Br. B. Asenath<LB>3 Dan. B. Neptunas<LB>4 Fr. B. Staveuil<LB>5 Fr. Schr. Chataeubriand<LB>6 Mer. Sch. Vitoria<LB>7 Am. Sh. Forrester<LB>8 Am. B. Oberon<LB>9 Am. B. Superior<LB>10 Am. Sh. Philadelphia  (Burned June 24)<LB>11 Ch. B. Carmen<LB>12 Haw. B. Mary Frances <LB>13 Am. Sh. Edwin <LB>14 Fr. Sh. Roanld <LB>15 Dan. Sh. Adelia <LB>16 Am. Sh. Grey Eagle <LB>17 Br. B. John Ritson <LB>18 Am. B. Col. Fremont <LB>19 Ch. Sh. Virginia <LB>20 Am. Sh. Sea Queen <LB>21 Ch. B. Maria Louisa <LB>22 Ch. B. Romano <LB>23 Am. Scr. Thomas <LB>24 Am. B. Quito <LB>25 Am. B. Louisiana <LB>26 Am. Sh. Greyhound <LB>27 Ch. Sh. California Dorado <LB>28 Am. Steamer Panama <LB>29 Am. B. Col. Benton <LB>30 Am. Sh. Massachesetts <LB>31 Am. B. Lucy Penniman <LB>32 Fr. B. Limanienne <LB>33 Ch. Sh. Gen. Ferrias <LB>34 Am. Sh. Honolulu <LB>35 Fr. B. Olympe <LB>36 Am. Sh. Herber <LB>37 Am. Steamer Oregon <LB>38 U.S.S. Warren 39 U.S.S. Southampton <LB>40 Quartm. P. Invincible <LB>41 H.B.M. Inconstant <LB>42 Launch for Stockton<HSEP> (Emily &amp; Jane) <LB>43 Customhouse <LB>44 Golden Gate <LB>45 Parkers Hotel <LB>46 P.M.S.S. Cos. Office <LB>47 S.H. Williams &amp; Cos. Store <LB>48 F. Vassault &amp; Cos. Store <LB>49 Leidesdorff's Residence <LB>50 Cross, Hobson &amp; Cos. Store <LB>51 Starkey, Janion &amp; Cos. Ware Ho. <LB>52 City Hotel <LB>53 Sherman &amp; Ruckel <LB>54 Mellus &amp; Howard <LB>55 Burling &amp; Hill <LB>56 Wm. H. Davis <LB>57 Macondray &amp; Co. <LB>58 Wm. S. Clark <LB>59 Catholic Church <LB>60 March &amp; Simonton <LB>61 Ward &amp; Smith <LB>62 Isld. Yerba Buena</P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Seventy-five Years IN CALIFORNIA </P>
025.sgm:<P>A HISTORY OF EVENTS AND LIFE IN CALIFORNIA:  <HI REND="italics">Personal, Political and Military</HI>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Being a compilation by a witness of the events described; a re-issue and enlarged illustrated edition of "Sixty Years in California," to which much new matter by its author has been added which he contemplated publishing under the present title at the time of his death</HI>
025.sgm:<P>BY  <HI REND="italics">WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS</HI>
025.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO  JOHN HOWELL  1929 </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT,  1919  BY JOHN HOWELL, SAN FRANCISCO  PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA  FEBRUARY, 1929 </P>
025.sgm:<P>IMPERIAL AND  INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT SECURED </P>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">All rights reserved in all countries</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE LAKESIDE PRESS, R. R. DONNELLEY &amp; SONS COMPANY, CHICAGO </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>TO  HERBERT HOOVER </P>
025.sgm:<P>EXEMPLIFIER OF AMERICAN IDEALS  AND FOREMOST CALIFORNIAN </P>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The permission granted to inscribe  "Seventy-five Years in California"   to you permits the linking of   your name with the vital chronicle   William Heath Davis has left us  of the early days of California, the   State of your adoption, and in  which you have shown such  profound interest</HI>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>William Heath Davis  1822-1909  </P>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Portrait of the author by an unknown artist, painted in 1850 when Mr. Davis was twenty eight.</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PUBLISHER'S PREFACE </HEAD>
025.sgm:<P>"SEVENTY-FIVE Years in California" would have been published by its author William Heath Davis before his death in 1909 but for the great San Francisco Fire in 1906. His manuscript was ready for the printer. All the new material which he contemplated adding to his book "Sixty Years in California"--San Francisco 1889--in order to bring out a new and enlarged edition under the title which this work bears, was contained in two dispatch boxes upon his desk in his office in the Montgomery Block. Mr. Davis endeavored to enter and save the matter upon which he had labored for years, but was prevented from doing so by United States Marines, and although the building escaped destruction, when he returned after the conflagration, the two boxes containing his papers had disappeared. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At his home, however, he had preserved fragments and notes from which his finished manuscript had been prepared. At eighty-four one does not possess the vigor to attack a task of doing over again what has taken years to accomplish. Upon his death three years later, his papers passed from his heirs into other hands, eventually coming into possession of the Huntington Library. Due to the hearty co-operation of this institution, the publication of Mr. Davis' book under the title he had chosen has been made possible. </P>
025.sgm:<P>William Heath Davis lived through California's Pastoral Period, when the Missions were disintegrating and their lands were passing into the hands of the great rancheros; he welcomed the American Invasion which resulted in the Conquest under Sloat, Stockton and Fr&eacute;mont he took a prominent part in the up-building Of San Francisco after the Discovery of Gold; and more than all, his intimates were those foremost men, natives of California and Americans alike, whose lives of heroic pattern are woven into the historical background of the Golden State. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Seventy-five Years in California" is not a simple narrative. It is rather an encyclop&aelig;dia of episodes and personal portraits. No book written by a contemporary dealing with California has been so widely quoted as the volume of which the present work is the outgrowth. It is the acknowledged source book for the period which it covers. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>William Heath Davis came from a Boston sea-faring, ship-owning family, although born in Honolulu in 1822. His father, Wm. Heath Davis, senior, married a daughter of Oliver Holmes, another Boston ship-master and a relative of Doctor Oliver Wendell Holmes. It is interesting to note that the shipping trade to the Coast and to Hawaii was almost exclusively in the hands of Boston firms from its beginnings to the days of the Gold Rush. Davis' grandmother on his mother's side was a native of Hawaii, and her husband, Oliver Holmes, in addition to his trading operations, was at one time Governor of Oahu.  Another of Oliver Holmes' daughters married Nathan Spear, one of that trio of first merchants to settle in San Francisco; William Sturgis Hinckley and Jacob Primer Leese being the other partners. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Davis first visited California as a small boy in 1831. He came a second time in 1833, and at length, in 1838, he arrived aboard the "Don Quixote" to enter the service of his uncle Nathan Spear as a clerk in the latter's store in Monterey. </P>
025.sgm:<P>For four years Davis followed the fortunes of Nathan Spear, first at Monterey and later at Yerba Buena, the straggling settlement which he was to help build into the City of San Francisco. In 1842 he engaged as supercargo on the "Don Quixote" and made several trips to the Hawaiian Islands. </P>
025.sgm:<P>From 1845 onward Davis was a San Franciscan. He entered business on his own account, and in time became one of the town's prominent merchants and ship-owners. </P>
025.sgm:<P>His intimacy with native Californians has been mentioned. In 1847 he married Maria de Jesus, daughter of Don Joaquin Estudillo, a wealthy ranchero. Few men of his time had the opportunity Davis had of seeing all sides of Californian life, and none has left a record as vital and as full. He died at Hayward, California, April 19, 1909. </P>
025.sgm:<P>As boy, man, and patriarch, he saw the city he loved grow from a mere hamlet under the Mexican flag; in middle life his hand helped shape San Francisco's future; he served upon the town's ayuntamiento, or Town Council, and he was honored by its citizens who named one of its streets after him. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Many have written of the early days of California and of San Francisco, but none has caught the spirit and personality of both State and City and has passed it on to posterity as has William Heath Davis in this book which bears the title, "Seventy-five Years in California," a name chosen by him before his passing. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Much of the hitherto unpublished material now appears for the first time thanks to the courtesy of the Huntington Library and to Mr. Templeton <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Francisco</HI>
025.sgm:,<HSEP>JOHN HOWELL  <HI REND="italics">December 15</HI>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CALIFORNIA WAS NAMED NEW ALBION BY DRAKE IN 1579</P>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Francis Drake is here being crowned by the "King of New Albion."  The ship is doubtless the "Golden Hind," which Drake, its commander, careened and refitted somewhere on the coast of California--exact location unknown.  Reproduced from the German edition of Montanus amsterdam, 1673</HI>
025.sgm:<P>TRANSLATION:  The King of Albion or New England, so called because the English have become very powerful in this country of America situated in the western portion of Mexico neat the Kingdoms of Anian, Tolm, Conibas, Totoneac and New Granada and California. It is separated by a great river from Canada as well as New France. It limits Norumbega to the westward; to the east great rocks surround it and the sea is upon its north. The English do much business there. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Its people are civilized, particularly the Sovereign, the Grandees, the Priests of the Law and the Magistrates. They observe justice carefully. They retain still some of the ancient idolatries. They believe nevertheless in the immortality of the soul. The sovereign and the grandees are curious and magnificent in their clothing made of beautiful skins embroidered with precious stones and fastened with golden threads. These they carry on their shoulders--their heads are ornamented with fine feathers and they deck themselves with necklaces, bracelets of pearls and precious stones. </P>
025.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>TABLE OF CONTENTS </HEAD>
025.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE <LB><HSEP>HISTORICAL Foreword by Douglas S. Watson<HSEP>xix-xxxii <LB>I.AUTHOR'S FIRST ARRIVAL IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>1 <LB>II. THE MISSION OF SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS<HSEP>6 <LB>III. WM. A. RICHARDSON'S ARRIVAL 1822<HSEP>9 <LB>IV. AUTHOR RETURNS ON "DON QUIXOTE"<HSEP>16 <LB>V. RUSSIAN AMERICAN FUR COMPANY<HSEP>22 <LB>VI. JACOB PRIMER LEESE ARRIVES IN 1833<HSEP>25<LB>VII. ELK ON MARE ISLAND<HSEP>31<LB>   VIII. HOW THE MISSIONS WERE SUPPORTED<HSEP>35<LB>IX. LIFE ON CALIFORNIA RANCHOS<HSEP>38<LB>X. THE HORSE IN EARLY CALIFORNIA<HSEP>43<LB>XI. ALVARADO'S ARREST OF AMERICANS<HSEP>46<LB>XII. NATHAN SPEAR AND THE AUTHOR DETAINED<HSEP>50<LB>XIII. VISIT OF DE MOFRAS TO CALIFORNIA<HSEP>52 <LB>XIV. PRIESTS AND MISSION LIFE<HSEP>57<LB>XV. INDIAN INSURRECTIONS AND TREACHERY<HSEP>63<LB>XVI. AUTHOR'S COURTSHIP AND MARRIAGE<HSEP>71<LB>XVII. A SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE<HSEP>76<LB>XVIII. CALIFORNIA AMUSEMENTS<HSEP>79<LB>XIX. MEXICAN PUBLIC MEN AND OTHERS<HSEP>84<LB>XX. THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY IN YERBA BUENA<HSEP>91<LB>XXI. COMMODORE WILKES VISITS YERBA BUENA<HSEP>95<LB>XXII. THE "JULIA ANN" SAILS INTO PORT<HSEP>102<LB>XXIII. BOSTON SHIPS AND TRADERS<HSEP>105<LB>XXIV. AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF 1842<HSEP>  111   <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE <LB>XXV. A LOT ABOUT THOMAS AP CATESBY JONES, U. S. N.<HSEP>117 <LB>XXVI. SOMETHING CONCERNING DON LUIS VIGNES<HSEP>120 <LB>XXVII. EARLY AMERICAN SETTLERS IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>123 <LB>XXVIII. ALVARADO OUSTS GOVERNOR MICHELTORENA<HSEP>126 <LB>XXIX. MORE ABOUT THE REVOLUTION<HSEP>130 <LB>XXX. GENERAL M. G. VALLEJO'S LANDS AND CATTLE<HSEP>135 <LB>XXXI. VALLEJO'S APPEAL FOR ANNEXATION TO UNITED STATES<HSEP>141 <LB>XXXII. CALIFORNIANS AND THEIR WAYS<HSEP>143 <LB>XXXIII. WILLIAM STURGIS HINCKLEY BUILDS THE FIRST BRIDGE<HSEP>149 <LB>XXXIV. SHIPS, HIDES, CUSTOMS OFFICIALS AND CONTRABAND<HSEP>153 <LB>XXXV. FIRST DISCOVERY OF GOLD IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>159 <LB>XXXVI. GOLD, GOLD AND MORE GOLD<HSEP>165 <LB>XXXVII. FIREWATER, BONFIRES AND SCARED INDIANS<HSEP>169 <LB>XXXVIII. NATHAN SPEAR'S GRIST MILL; THE FIRST<HSEP>174 <LB>XXXIX. H. M. S. "BLOSSOM" DISCOVERS BLOSSOM ROCK<HSEP>181 <LB>XL. DON FRANCISCO GUERRERO GIVES A STRAWBERRY "BLOWOUT"<HSEP>187 <LB>XLI. HOLY DAYS AND HOLIDAYS<HSEP>195 <LB>XLII. YANKEE TURKEY SHOOTING AT CHRISTMAS<HSEP>199 <LB>XLIII. FRANCISCAN FATHERS FIRST-CLASS MERCHANTS<HSEP>204 <LB>XLIV. W. D. M. HOWARD, TRADER, JESTER AND BOLD OPERATOR<HSEP>210 <LB>XLV. SAMUEL BRANNAN, THE GREAT '46ER<HSEP>214 <LB>XLVI. A RIDE TO CHINO AND A GIFT TO THE POPE<HSEP>218 <LB>XLVII. FOLSOM'S FORESIGHT; AND TALBOT H. GREEN'S PAST<HSEP>225 <LB>XLVIII. YOSCOLO, THE MISSION INDIAN RENEGADE<HSEP>230 <LB>XLIX. DON JOS&Eacute; DE LA GUERRA Y NORIEGA AND HIS FAMILY<HSEP>236 <LB>L. HENRY MELLUS; FROM FO'C'SLE HAND TO MERCHANT<HSEP>242 <LB>LI. RIVALRY AND GOODFEELING BETWEEN TRADERS<HSEP>246 <LB>LII. DE PEDRORENA, MERCHANT AND STOCKTON'S LIEUTENANT<HSEP>250 <LB>LIII. THE GREAT HIDE AND TALLOW TRADE<HSEP>255 <LB>LIV. AUTHOR BECOMES MERCHANT; BUYS THE "EUPHEMIA"<HSEP>260 <LB>LV. "SEE THE AMERICAN FLAG FLYING!"<HSEP>266<LB>LVI. FR&Eacute;MONT SENDS FOR DAVIS<HSEP>272<LB>LVII. STOCKTON THE REAL CONQUERER; AND THE CONQUEST<HSEP>278</P>
025.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE <LB>LVIII. FR&Eacute;MONT TOO BUSY TO TALK<HSEP>284 <LB>LIX. FR&Eacute;MONT IN THE R&Oacute;LE OF PARDONER<HSEP>291 <LB>LX. MRS. PATY'S WINE CASK EMPTIES MYSTERIOUSLY<HSEP>295 <LB>LXI. YERBA BUENA'S FIRST AMERICAN ALCALDE: LIEUTENANT BARTLETT U. S. N.<HSEP>299 <LB>LXII. THE GOLD RUSH STARTS; AND OTHER INCIDENTS<HSEP>305 <LB>LXIII. COMMODORE JONES EXTOLS BENICIA IN VAIN<HSEP>315 <LB>LXIV. DAVIS FAILS TO BECOME FOUNDER OF OAKLAND<HSEP>323 <LB>LXV. WHICH READS LIKE PART OF DANA'S "TWO YEARS BEFORE THE MAST"<HSEP>332 <LB>LXVI. IN WHICH THE AUTHOR ENDS HIS RECORD<HSEP>338 <LB>APPENDIX <LB>EXTRACT FROM PROCEEDINGS OF THE SAN FRANCISCO AYUNTAMIENTO<HSEP>343 <LB>JASPER O'FARRELL'S SIGNED STATEMENT<HSEP>345 <LB>NAMES OF RESIDENTS AROUND THE BAY OF SAN FANCISCO 1838<HSEP>346 <LB>CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION OF FOUNDING OF MISSION SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS<HSEP>348 <LB>FATHER GONZALEZ'S LETTER ON THE STATE OF THE MISSIONS IN THE 1830-40 DECADE<HSEP>369 <LB>PADRE JUN&Iacute;PERO SERRA'S LETTER OF JULY 3, 1769, TELLING OF HIS <LB>ARRIVAL AT SAN DIEGO<HSEP>371 <LB>STATEMENTS OF GEORGE HYDE AND LETTERS IN THE HYDE CONTROVERSY<HSEP>373 <LB>FIRST SAN FRANCISCO DIRECTORY<HSEP>376 <LB>CHINESE IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>379 <LB>ROSTER OF OFFICERS OF STEVENSON'S REGIMENT<HSEP>382 <LB>STEVENSON'S REGIMENT COMES TO CALIFORNIA<HSEP>384 <LB>SOME PARTICULARS REGARDING STEVENSON'S REGIMENT<HSEP>386 <LB>MISSIONS AND THEIR WEALTH; HACENDADOS AND THEIR PROPERTY<HSEP>389 <LB>RECORD OF SHIPS ARRIVING FROM 1774 to 1847<HSEP>397 <LB>BIBLIOGRAPHY<HSEP>411 <LB>INDEX<HSEP>415</P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Is this placing of the name San Francisco in nearly its correct position a coincidence, or did Wytfliet have the knowledge of Cerme&ntilde;os bestowal of the name to the scene of his disaster: la Bahia de San Francisco</HI>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Above the star appears San Francisco as the name for a cape.  These two maps are from the Descriptions of Ptolemaicae Augmentum published by Cornelius Wytfliet at Louvain in Belgium in 1597.  This was two years after the wreck of the San Augustin, a Manila Galleon, commanded by Cerme&ntilde;o, a Portuguese navigator in the service of King of Spain</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS </HEAD>
025.sgm:<P>San Francisco in 1846-1847 (in color)<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Inside Front Cover</HI>
025.sgm:<LB>Seal of San Francisco (in color)  "  "   " <LB>San Francisco 1849 (in color)<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
025.sgm:<LB>Great Seal of the State Of California<HSEP>vi <LB>Portrait of William Heath Davis<HSEP>vii <LB>Crowning of Drake by the King of New Albion<HSEP>xi <LB>Map of California 1597.  From Descriptionis Ptolemaic&aelig; Augmentum<HSEP>xv <LB>California as an Island, 1666. Psalm and Marginal Note from Bishops' Bible 1568 referring to location of Land of Ophir<HSEP>xix <LB>Presidio in 1816, by Louis Choris, attached to von Kotsebue's Expedition<HSEP>1 <LB>Plan del Gran Puerto de San Francisco made by Don Jose de Ca&ntilde;izares 1781<HSEP>6 <LB>Jacob Primer Leese's "Dam Fine Traid" letter reproduced by courtesy of Templeton Crocker, Esq.<HSEP>25<LB>Portrait of Jacob Primer Leese<HSEP> 26 <LB>Celebration of Completion of Jacob Primer Leese's House, July 4, 1836<HSEP>27 <LB>Elk swimming Carquines Straits<HSEP>31 <LB>The Port of San Francisco, June 1,1849<HSEP>46 <LB>A California Wedding Party 1843<HSEP>71 <LB>Author's Grizzled Hairs due to Grizzly Bears<HSEP>81 <LB>Extracts from the Papers Of the Schooner "Julia Ann."<HSEP>102 <LB>Letter from Robert Semple to William Heath Davis. Letter from Thomas O. Larkin to William Heath Davis<HSEP>117 <LB>Portrait of General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo and autograph<HSEP>141 <LB>San Francisco, April, 1830, by William B. McMurtrie<HSEP>149</P>
025.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE <LB>Autograph letter of Capt. John A. Sutter introducing John Bidwell to Archibald C. Peachy; July 4, 1849. John Bidwell's autograph letter to William Heath Davis, April 13, 1895<HSEP>159 <LB>Sutter's Saw Mill at Coloma where James Marshall Discovered <LB>Gold, Jan. 24, 1848<HSEP>160 <LB>Alcalde Grant, signed by Jesus No&eacute;, last Mexican Alcalde, and by Washington A. Bartlett, first American Alcalde, 1846<HSEP>174 <LB>Letter of Montgomery to Leidesdorff regarding safety of Vice Consul<HSEP>174 <LB>Letter from Samuel Brannan to William Heath Davis<HSEP>210 <LB>Sacramento in 1848, showing Store of S. Brannan &amp; Co.<HSEP>214 <LB>Juan Bandini's Jurupa Ranch House, Riverside, California<HSEP>218 <LB>Prison Ship "Euphemia"<HSEP>261 <LB>Commodore John D. Sloat's general order of July 7, 1846<HSEP>266 <LB>Portrait of J. C. Fremont and autograph<HSEP>272 <LB>Portrait of Commodore Robert F. Stockton<HSEP>278 <LB>City of Los Angeles 1854<HSEP>291  <LB>Captain Montgomery's request, "See him pleasant"<HSEP>299 <LB>Report upon selection of San Francisco's first school teacher, and bill in full for San Francisco's first Public School house<HSEP>305 <LB>First Public School House in San Francisco<HSEP>308 <LB>City of Benicia 1854<HSEP>315 <LB>U. S. Custom House owned by William Heath Davis<HSEP>315 <LB>Montgomery Street, San Francisco, after the fire of May 4, 1851<HSEP>317 <LB>The California Star, of April 3, 1847 (photographic reproduction)<HSEP>323 <LB>Appointment of William E. Leidesdorff as Vice-Consul at Yerba Buena, Oct. 29, 1845, signed by Thomas O. Larkin. Lieutenant Joseph Warren Revere's Letter of Instructions to Mr. Kern at Sutter's Fort, July 9, 1846<HSEP>338 <LB>Draft of San Francisco's First Directory in handwriting of William Heath Davis<HSEP>376</P>
025.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Facsimile of "The Californian" of March 13th, 1848, containing advertisement of William Heath Davis and the first local mention of the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill, January 24, 1848<HSEP><HI REND="italics">End of Index</HI>
025.sgm:<LB>Sixty-eight original sketches and decorations by Douglas Rodger appearing as Chapter Headings <LB>Reproduction in three colors of Diego Trancoso's map of California and the Missions Fr. Jun&iacute;pero Serra founded.  From Francisco Pal&oacute;u's Life of Serra published in 1787.<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Inside rear cover</HI>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xix</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">The note in the margin of the page from the so-called Bishops' Bible of 1568 is most interesting, referring as it does to Ophir, the land of gold, and the possibility of it being an island such as California is represented to be on the accompanying map dated 1666</HI>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">California here appears as an island, the northern position bearing the name New Albion, reminiscent of the visit to our shores of Francis Drake in 1579</HI>
025.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA: UNDER THREE FLAGS  <HI REND="italics">An Historical Foreword</HI>
025.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA has been the subject of many histories; its past has furnished more curious speculation than almost any portion of the western hemisphere; and the origin of its name has excited more interest, both among laymen and historians, than even the fabled source of Solomon's gold, the land of Ophir. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The sole purpose of this sketchy outline is to serve as a background upon which the general reader may project the incidents and events of "Seventy-five Years in California" so as to render them more interesting and vivid. It makes no pretense to be other than an "adventitious aid" in helping recreate the atmosphere in which the past of the "Golden State" is enveloped. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While Cort&eacute;z, the Conqueror of Mexico, as far back as 1533 began the long series of explorations which continued, with many interruptions, for over two centuries and which have made familiar the names of Cabrillo, Drake, Cerme&ntilde;o and Vizcaino, it is not until the joint efforts of Gaspar de Portol&aacute; and Jun&iacute;pero Serra under the dual banner of Cross and Sword--the Holy Expedition of 1769, resulting in the settlement of San Diego--that it can be truly said that California's history starts. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Much has been written about the name California, and the reason for its application first to the peninsula of Baja, or Lower California, and then to both Alta, or Upper, and Lower California under the somewhat mystical designation of the Californias. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The romantic sequel to Vasco de Lobeira's equally romantic medieval novel, Amad&iacute;s de Gaula, written by Garc&iacute;a Ordo&ntilde;ez de Montalvo and called Las Sergas de Esplandi&aacute;n, was found by Edward Everett Hale to contain the description of a fabulous island abounding in gold and such other delights as would attract the imaginations of the wonder-loving Spanish explorers of the Sixteenth Century, and the name of this marvelous land was California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It is now generally conceded that this is doubtless the origin of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xx</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>All now reject the supposition that California is formed from combinations of either Latin or Spanish words: calida fornax, in one instance; caliente fornella, in the other. Hot furnace, a literal translation of both suggestions, neither fits the case, nor is it as pleasing to contemplate as the scene of the hero Esplandi&aacute;n's romantic exploits, the land of wondrous riches, California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Padre Serra's Expedicion Santa thrust back the curtain, and permitted the world to peek into the land we were destined to know. To follow in the footsteps of the Padres, and of Portol&aacute;, to see heart-breaking obstacles overcome, to be present at the founding of the long chain of Missions is possible in many books which lovers of California have written. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Among the many helping to shape the destiny of the new country, one name stands out from among the ruck; a light hardly less brilliant than the Padre Jun&iacute;pero himself; and that is Juan Bautista de Anza. All the charm of the Pastoral Period when ease and plenty ruled the land, when Indians toiled and the Dons danced, and made love to languishing-eyed se&ntilde;oritas, when a Californian afoot was unknown, comes from the efforts of the followers of glorious Anza and their descendents of pure Spanish blood. </P>
025.sgm:<P>How Anza in the winter of 1775-76 led his tiny army of Presidial soldiers with their wives and children through Arizona and by way of the then wilderness of the Imperial Valley from Sonora to Monterey, and in safety, is an odyssey almost as marvelous as the fabled wanderings of Ulysses.  What the Church had started, the men of Anza's battalion completed. Under their protection the worthy Franciscans toiled in the Lord's vineyard, while on their part they, following the Biblical injunction, increased and multiplied. Without the influence of both of these forces, California would never have become the Lotus Land which excited the envious hopes of the more materially minded Americans. </P>
025.sgm:<P>From the roster of Anza's soldiery are drawn names still cherished as relics of our romantic past.  There you will find the familiar Moraga, Grijalva, Alviso, Peralta, Garcia, Pacheco, Valencia, Sanchez, Castro, Pico, Bernal, Galindo, Berreyesa, and many others. These are the founders, the very pioneers; and it is the doings of these men and their children, mingled with those of later comers, that make up the fascinating life of the Ma&ntilde;ana Land under the banner of Spain, and the tri-color of Mexico after the separation from the mother country. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxi</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Spain's ideal of colonization required three co-ordinate impulses: the Presidio, the Padres and their Missions, and the Pueblo. From this grouping of forces, Spanish civilization in California spread. The soldier guarded the Church, and both helped to create the town. While the avowed purpose was the Christianization of the Indians, the occupation of California was really due to jealousy of both Russia and England. The Missions were deemed but temporary footholds; a term of ten years had been set as the period of their existence. Population of the land was Spain's goal, and the fear of unwelcome intrusion was her urge. </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey and San Francisco were selected for Presidios; Los Angeles, San Jos&eacute; and Branciforte (Santa Cruz) were founded as Pueblos with the hope that by generous grants of unmeasured acres colonists would occupy the land and that Spain's sovereignty would be thereby secure. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It must be always be borne in mind that California was very difficult of access. The base for the Province at San Blas was but the half-way point in the journey from Mexico City to either San Diego or Monterey. Navigation in the Sea of Cort&eacute;z, or Gulf of California, was perilous, and the long voyage up the coast of the peninsula was only accomplished in the face of contrary winds. This isolation gave the native Californians a sense of detachment which no other Spanish colony enjoyed. It developed their Spirit of independence to the extent that they never hesitated to veto the choice of governors the far away viceroy sent to rule them. This veto was absolute and was expressed on more than one occasion. The Governor was placed aboard a convenient vessel, and politely asked not to return. </P>
025.sgm:<P>With the separation of Mexico from the mother country two factions developed in California: The Mission fathers and their adherents remained loyal to Spain, while the rancheros and the military sided largely with the aspirants of independence. Later, this cleavage resulted in the secularization of the Mission establishments, from which grew the development of the great ranchos in private hands. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Again, a sectional jealousy between the official north, centered at the Departmental capital of Monterey, and the dwellers of the southland which included Santa Barbara and Los Angeles, brought about those opera bouffe martial Contests in which much inferior powder was burned but no blood shed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>California might as well have been a strange island in the South Seas for all the care and thought the new Mexican republican government lavished upon it. The Californians were left to their own devices which gave the department the opportunity the natives desired; to nourish their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxii</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>With the change of flags came the dawn of what might be called the Period of Boston Ships. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Keen Yankees had made San Francisco Bay a port of supply for food and water for their whale ships. Honolulu, under its New England missionaries, was likewise often visited by these American mariners. Trade followed the pursuit of the whale, and in time the gewgaws from the Atlantic Coast--and necessities as well--became current barter for the hides and tallow of the disintegrating Mission establishments and the prospering ranchos. This commerce, forbidden by Spain, was restricted straightly under Mexican rule; but was observed largely in the breach, to the satisfaction of the natives of the department. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Supercargoes conducted the trade of the early ships visiting the Coast. These roving traders soon came ashore as resident agents, and with the growth of this profitable business, more ships and more merchants appeared in California. Boston became known, while other American cities were as if non-existent. Americans were called Boston men, and all goods from the United States went by the name of Boston goods. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A few trappers had appeared from the great beyond, braving the terrors of the solitude of the Great Basin and the Indians of the Rockies. Jedediah Smith and his party, the first white man to blaze the trail to California and Oregon, appeared at the San Gabriel Mission on the morning of November 27th, 1826, much to the astonishment of the Padres and the officials. Jedediah Smith wintered in California, and in the spring crossed the Sierra Nevadas, leaving his main party to hunt and trap on the rivers of central California, for whom he returned the following year, and made his way with two companions back to the rendezvous in the Rockies. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jedediah Smith was the pathfinder in whose train were to come thousands and thousands of his countrymen within a score of years, whose presence on the Pacific Coast changed the destiny both of Mexico and the United States. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Some five years later we find Walker in California. He had left Captain Bonneville's party with instructions to make a rough survey of Great Salt Lake, but instead had wandered with his uncouth half-breeds and his American companions to Monterey. Walker Pass; Walker River, and Walker Lake in Nevada are reminders of this exploit. A few others risked the dangers of the overland route from the settlements at Santa F&eacute; and found their way to Mission San Gabriel. Their stories upon their return opened the eyes of their listeners to the Wondrous Land fronting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxii</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>As far back as 1811 Russia in the person of the Russian American Fur Company had appeared upon the scene. The cause of their coming was two-fold: necessity for a base of cereal supply for their Alaskan posts, impossible of growth in far northern latitudes; and the teeming fur-bearing mammal life of Californian waters. They preempted Bodega Bay and erected an armed post at Fort Ross. Spain's feeble grasp upon the country brought forth nothing more than a protest, and as the yearly supply ships from San Blas failed to arrive, due to the activities of the insurgents generally in Spanish America, Governor Arrillaga was glad to open trade with the intruders. The Russians remained in California until December 1841 when they sold their property to the Swiss adventurer Johann August Sutter who had arrived in San Francisco Bay in 1839, and who was destined to take a notable part in the occurrences of the years to come. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sutter set out for California from the then frontier town of St. Louis in 1838, tramped the Oregon Trail to the Columbia River, thence he shipped to Honolulu, where he found the British brig "Clementina," and in her, by way of Sitka, Alaska, he finally made his way to his destination. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sutter founded a principality in the wilderness where the American River (named so because of its occupation by the trappers of Jedediah Smith's company) empties into the Sacramento. Here he was lord of the marches, and here, becoming a Mexican citizen, he built his fort, armed it with Russian cannon, drilled his Indians, and surveyed his eleven square leagues of land with the complacency and with as much authority as any baron of old. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Doctor John Marsh, Harvard graduate and restless American, had slipped away from civilization to become the owner of Los Medanos rancho in Contra Costa in 1836. His home letters stirred the imaginations of others. A trickle of hardy Americans followed in his wake. John Bidwell, Talbot H. Green and Josiah Belden were members of this Bartleson party, the first overland settlers, who reached California in 1841. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At Monterey Captain J. B. R. Cooper and Thomas O. Larkin had already made their homes, while in Yerba Buena, then just taking on the dignity of a settlement, Jacob P. Leese, William S. Hinckley and William A. Leidesdorff had begun business. Nathan Spear was at this time the principal store-keeper in Monterey, while at Los Angeles Abel Stearns held a similar position. Don Luis Vignes had planted his historic vineyard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Here was the nucleus of American possession, and when added to the Boston men trading up and down the coast, it will be seen that Governor Alvarado had cause for his nervousness regarding subsequent arrivals. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Just north of the Salinas River, nestled in the first rises of the Gavilan Range was Natividad, the rendezvous of deserters from ships touching on the coast. Here one Isaac Graham, a Tennesseean mountaineer, an arrival of 1833 and a crack shot, had set up a distillery, and here he gathered to him spirits as reckless as himself. To obtain a true value of Graham's influence and the strength of his Natividad settlement, one must not be surprised to learn that Alvarado, soon to become governor, thanks to the rifles of fifty Natividados, solicited the former trapper's aid and obtained it. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Presidios had almost fallen into equal decay with the secularized Missions. Political discontent was rampant. The Disputacion or departmental assembly, in electing Alvarado as governor after the forced departure of ex-governor Gutierrez, even went so far as to declare California independent of Mexico; and stranger still, a proposal was offered that the name of the independent state be changed to Montezuma. This last action was immediately reconsidered and annulled along with the act of secession. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This, then, is the background of the scene when William Heath Davis arrived at Monterey to enter the employ of Nathan Spear, his uncle by marriage. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Grants of land to those Americans willing to become naturalized Mexican citizens were freely given; and daughters of many of the rich rancheros became wives of the new comers. The intercourse between native Californians and "los estranjeros," as the foreigners' were called, became intimate and cordial. Each respected the other. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Back in Washington the thought of further western expansion had been born. Senator Thomas H. Benton of Missouri, the future father-in-law of Captain John C. Fr&eacute;mont, kept his eyes ever on the setting sun. His life was devoted to an idea: the flag of the United States must wave throughout the land from the Atlantic to the Pacific. First it was the Oregon territory that demanded his attention; but with time came the hope that Mexico might be induced to part with its California possessions, and if that were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxv</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The administration of President James K. Polk had a settled western policy as will be seen from the events which follow. And Benton deserves the title of Honorable Californian for his efforts which resulted, indirectly, it is true, in the annexation of the vast territory stretching from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific. </P>
025.sgm:<P>What Washington wished to know was: what was this country like where Boston merchants grew rich in a few years; and so Commodore Charles Wilkes was sent with his squadron to "survey" the land. Captain John C. Fr&eacute;mont was detailed to approach the coast overland. Between these two, officialdom felt the true nature of the country would become known. </P>
025.sgm:<P>American war vessels hovered suspiciously along the coast, and the tide of overland immigration was gathering force. At length, the arrest of all foreigners in the department was decreed. Some fifty were seized, carried aboard ship, and dispatched to San Blas. The Mexican government disavowed this action of Governor Alvarado, returned the prisoners and compensated them for their inconvenIence. Fear of the great Anglo-Saxon republic was ever uppermost in the minds of both Alvarado and his military coadjutor, General Jos&eacute; Castro, who were responsible for the round-up of the so-called strangers. Americans who had become Mexican citizens, or who had married into Californian families, were not disturbed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>One day in October 1842 Commodore Thomas Ap Catesby Jones sailed the U. S. ship "United States" into Monterey Bay. In Peru he had heard rumors that war had been declared between Mexico and the United States. He dropped anchor, trained his loaded guns upon the feeble fortifications of the Presidio, and, landing a force, hauled down the Mexican ensign and hoisted the Stars and Stripes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This event was significant. The Navy was under orders to act, whenever the occasion demanded. Later advices than Jones possessed convinced him of his error, so like an officer and a gentleman the Mexican flag was replaced by him the next day, saluted, and Jones sailed away. Later he called upon Governor Micheltorena in Los Angeles and offered his official apologies. </P>
025.sgm:<P>March 8th, 1844 saw the arrival at Sutter's Fort of Captain John C. Fr&eacute;mont. After renewing his provision supply, he passed down the San Joaquin valley with his armed survey crew, crossed the Tehachapi, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxvi</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>His next appearance, however, stirred California to its depths. Again accompanied by Kit Carson, his inseparable guide and companion, and with a compact body of sixty armed men, Fr&eacute;mont arrived at Suffer's Fort on December 10th, 1845. This was the historic journey; for this time he did not avoid the Mexican settlements along the coast, but boldly came to Monterey to confer with Thomas O. Larkin who had been appointed American Consul for California the year previously. </P>
025.sgm:<P>General Castro viewed Fr&eacute;mont's return with trepidation, especially as orders had come from Mexican sources to stop the increasing stream of American immigration at all hazards. While it is true that Fr&eacute;mont had left his men encamped near San Jos&eacute;, and had appeared without show of military display, yet when he requested permission to winter and recruit his men in the confines of the Department, it was accorded grudgingly.  Possibly Castro had prescience of what was to follow. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fr&eacute;mont's movements from this time on are the history of California. But it is interesting to know that on this first visit to Monterey he was accompanied by William A. Leidesdorff, whom Larkin had appointed Vice-Consul for the United States with headquarters at Yerba Buena (San Francisco) but a few months before: October 29th, 1845. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fr&eacute;mont returned to his troops then gathered at the Laguna Seco rancho, near Coyote, some fifteen miles south of San Jos&eacute;, and instead of marching for Oregon as he had explained his plans to Alvarado and Castro, led his men across the Santa Clara valley, over the Santa Cruz mountains and into the Salinas valley where he pitched camp within twenty miles of Monterey, the capital of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Castro was roused. He ordered Fr&eacute;mont to withdraw, which he did, and next we find the Americans entrenched on Gavilan Peak, the American flag raised, and defiance offered Castro and all others in authority. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fr&eacute;mont blustered. Castro mobilized his forces at San Juan. And Larkin, alarmed at the course events were taking, sent post haste to John Parrott, United States Consul at Mazatlan for help. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Without a shot being fired, but leaving his campfires burning, Fr&eacute;mont marched off in the dead of night, headed for the San Joaquin, and subsequently Klamath Lakes in Oregon. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Larkin's call for help bore fruit. Captain John B. Montgomery sailed the U. S. sloop-of-war "Portsmouth" into Monterey Bay in April, but the cause of the disturbance, Fr&eacute;mont, was then in the wilds of northern California. Montgomery stayed on for a while, and then sailed for San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxvii</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Melodrama now enters and usurps the stage. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Archibald H. Gillespie, lieutenant of the Marine Corps, becomes a bearer of dispatches. These consisted of a duplicate message for both Larkin and Fr&eacute;mont, a packet Of personal letters from Jessie Benton Fr&eacute;mont, wife of the explorer, and letters from Senator Benton to the same address. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Gillespie received his instructions in Washington from no less personage than the Secretary of State, James Buchanan, afterwards President of the United States. The route chosen to reach his destination was through Mexico, a perilous undertaking, for we were on the verge of war. Gillespie memorized his secret missive, destroyed the original, and succeeded in reaching the west coast. An American warship carried him to Monterey where he landed in April, and there he wrote from memory the dispatch for Larkin. This secret message has been the source of much research, but Professor Josiah Royce of Harvard has the honor of discovering its context and thus settling all further speculation. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Where was Fr&eacute;mont? </P>
025.sgm:<P>Gillespie had completed only half his mission, and he must find the Topographical Engineer wherever he might be. Disguised as an invalid seeking health, the lieutenant of Marines rode northward. At Sutter's Fort he learned that Fr&eacute;mont had passed onward a month before, and that the Indians of the Klamath country were restless. </P>
025.sgm:<P>With Neal, one of Fr&eacute;mont's men who had remained in California since the expedition of the previous year, and one other, Gillespie set out to seek his man in a wilderness filled with unfriendly Savages. Fr&eacute;mont's trail was soon found and followed, and Neal dashed ahead to warn Fr&eacute;mont, who with a handful of men returned in his tracks to meet Gillespie. The meeting took place on the evening of May 9th, 1846: the day the first engagement in the Mexican war was fought at Resaca de la Palma. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Three camp fires were lighted. Fr&eacute;mont's faithful Delaware Indians huddled round one, for the night was sharp; Basil Lajeunesse, French-Canadian voyageur and his fellows warmed themselves at another; while Fr&eacute;mont listened eagerly to Gillespie's recital by the light of the third, and read the letters from his wife and Senator Benton. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Under the pines and hemlocks no thoughts of hostile Indians broke in upon Fr&eacute;mont's reverie. He was intent upon plans for the future and the part he was to play in the drama. He was upon the shore of his Rubicon, and he must decide. Was he clairvoyant? Did he have mystic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxviii</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>A groan disturbed the midnight quiet. Kit Carson, grasping his rifle, ran through the fitful firelight, shouting, "What was that?" In answer came a whirr of Indian arrows. The fight began, but Basil Lajeunesse had groaned for the last time, and when stillness settled again over the camp two others lay dead beside him. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The next day Fr&eacute;mont and Gillespie joined the main body of the party. Then followed a punitive expedition against the Klamath tribes they were destined to remember sorrowingly, for Fr&eacute;mont was exacting in his revenge. At length the southward march began, and camp was established at the Marysville Buttes, twin volcanic cones rising abruptly from the level plain of the Sacramento valley. Here word was given out that the head of the American survey party could be seen, and settlers and roving trappers gathered to voice their real and supposed grievances. If Fr&eacute;mont hesitated before, now he was all decision. He would bend circumstances to suit his plans. Castro was at San Jos&eacute; watching the incomprehensible actions of this American Engineer, while horses to mount his summoned followers were at Sonoma.  Lieutenant Arce was dispatched to get them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The return journey began auspiciously; the Sacramento River was crossed at Knight's Landing, the horses swimming. But when the Consumnes River was neared, Ezekiel Merritt, sent by Fr&eacute;mont for the purpose, seized the animals, permitting Arce and his men to proceed with the parting injunction that Castro, if he wanted his mounts, must come and get them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This was the first step in the Conquest of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fr&eacute;mont now moved his headquarters down to Sutter's Fort. His forces were growing, for all Americans in that part of California were convinCed that their leader was acting under positive governmental instructions, whereas the only communication he had received, that which Gillespie had brought to both Larkin and himself counselled an altogether different course. Buchanan had insisted upon conciliatory measures aimed to capture the whole-hearted support of the Californians, and had enjoined upon Larkin and Fr&eacute;mont "on all proper occasions to warn the government and the people of California of the danger of California becoming a British or French colony; to inspire them with a jealousy of European dominion; and to arouse in their bosoms that love of liberty and independence so natural to the American continent." And more, "If the people desire to unite their destiny with ours they should be received as brethren--" </P>
025.sgm:<P>Larkin was moving heaven and earth to accomplish annexation of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxix</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>General Mariano G. Vallejo was the best friend the United States had in California. He was also the most influential of the department's prominent men, and yet Fr&eacute;mont's next move was directed against him. True, Fr&eacute;mont was not bold enough to appear at Sonoma in person, but he later assumed the responsibility for the actions of Ezekiel Merritt's party which arrested Vallejo, Prudon, Leese and Salvador Vallejo, the general's brother, and brought them prisoners to him at Sutter's Fort. </P>
025.sgm:<P>To follow Fr&eacute;mont's movements from the middle of June to the end of July, would be to give a recital of lawless acts committed against a people we hoped to win by kindness. This period includes the Bear Flag revolt, the murder of the de Haro boys and old man Berreyesa, the useless spiking of the equally useless guns at the San Francisco, the kidnapping of Robert Ridley who was acting as the Mexican collector of customs. Its consequences stirred the anger and resentment of all native Californians, and yet it was the belief of Commodore Sloat that Fr&eacute;mont was following government instructions that finally urged that Naval officer to raise the American flag at Monterey July 7th, 1846. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fearing British occupation of California, Sloat had slipped away from Mazatlan, leaving the British squadron under Admiral Seymour in ignorance of his destination, and had sailed into Monterey Bay July 2nd, with the U. S. ship "Savannah." </P>
025.sgm:<P>For five days Sloat hesitated. His instructions were to seize California whenever he should hear that war had been declared between Mexico and the United States. At Mazatlan he had learned that hostilities had started along the Rio Grande, but with the fiasco of Commodore Jones in raising the flag in 1842, and having to lower it again, ever in his mind, he was excessively cautious. Sloat even went so far as to inquire if a salute to the MexiCan flag would be acceptable the day the "Savannah" dropped anchor. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sloat's belated action saved not only the Bear Flag revolters, but gave Fr&eacute;mont a legalized standing, without which he might properly have been regarded as a bandit and freebooter. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fr&eacute;mont brought his enlarged and armed party to Monterey at Sloat's request, and it is said that the interview between the Naval commander and the instigator of hostilities, when the former learned from the latter's own lips that what had been done was without shadow of authority, was both humiliating and heated. Sloat felt he had been trapped into his seizure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxx</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>From July 29th, 1846 the so-called Conquest of California was in energetic hands. Stockton accepted Fr&eacute;mont's help. The CalifOrnia Battalion was organized, and until the Peace of Los Angeles the following January, it played a picturesque if not an important part in the events which led to the pacification of the country. </P>
025.sgm:<P>So much has been written about Fr&eacute;mont as the Conqueror of California, that the leadership of other figures in the drama has been overshadowed. Kearny, coming overland from Santa F&eacute; with his 132 men fought the only serious battle of the campaign at San Pascual. Stockton moved his forces to San Diego, and with Kearny began the march to Los Angeles. Fr&eacute;mont marched from Monterey southward, and at Cahuenga received the capitulation of the Californians, despite the nearby presence of his commanding officer, to whom the matter should properly have been submitted. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The end of the Fr&eacute;mont story, like its beginning, is irregular. Failure to obey Kearny's positive orders as the commander-in-chief appointed by the Washington authorities, resulted in his subsequent arrest and court martial. Fr&eacute;mont passed out of California in June 1847 with a divided reputation: the people of the north execrated him; those in the southland held him in esteem. </P>
025.sgm:<P>William Heath Davis states that Commodore Stockton was the real conqueror of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The outline of the conquest touching upon Fr&eacute;mont's actions has been given at some length, for only thus will the allusions in Davis' narrative be understandable. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Three weeks after Captain John B. Montgomery, commanding the U. S. sloop-of-war "Portsmouth" had raised the American flag over the Plaza of San Francisco on July 9th, 1846, Samuel Brannan and his Mormon followers from New York arrived in the ship "Brooklyn." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Brannan's energy and foresight had much to do with laying the foundations of commercial prosperity of San Francisco. He established the first newspaper, The California Star, in the city: this was the second in the State. Robert Semple, who took part in the Bear Flag affair, together with the Rev. Walter Colton, former chaplain of Commodore Stockton's flagship, and by him appointed Alcalde at Monterey, had begun the publication of The Californian, which Semple afterward moved to San Francisco <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxxi</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Brannan made his appearance in San Francisco with some of the first gold May 13th, 1848. At first the importance of the find was held in slight esteem, but soon the magnitude of the treasure grew, and the first exodus to the mines started. It is said that one time but seven able-bodied men remained in San Francisco. Desertion left officers of the Army without commands, and the word going out to the world, shiploads of gold-seekers from Honolulu, from Peru, from china, made their appearance. These first comers were soon joined by bands of Sonorans; while caravans of Americans, disregarding the unknown dangers of mountains, deserts and Indians, trekked westward to El Dorado in their covered wagons. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The military rule which had irked the liberty-loving and independent-minded immigrants came to an end with the acceptance by the people of California of the Constitution prepared by the convention at Monterey and the election of officials headed by Peter H. Burnett as Governor. From October 19th, 1849 until September 9th, of the year following, California functioned as a State without being a member of the Union, but with the arrival of the steamer Oregon at San Francisco October 19th, 1830 it was learned that Congress had voted to admit California to statehood on the previous 9th of September. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The early years of the decade beginning with 1830 brought much litigation arising out of real and fictitious Spanish and Mexican land grants; also the gradual settlement of the State's agricultural lands by American farmers. From this period on, the history of California is much a repetition of the struggles of the pioneers of other western communities, and with the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869, the isolation of the far west vanished, together with most of its picturesqueness. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The assimilation of Mexican California and its Americanization might be likened to the Norman Conquest of England with the Spanish speaking Californians, their customs and their laws, taking the place of the Saxons. In each instance there was a complete overthrow of a ruling people; while the intruders introduced their own language, habits of thought and ways of living, and forced the defeated to accept conditions wholly alien to them. Yet, as in Britain, somewhat of the former atmosphere and customs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxxii</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>California has ever been a name to conjure with. Its history under three flags is filled with the mysterious. Here, after the discovery of gold, the crucial test of self-government, in a community made up almost wholly of men, brought forth orderly regard for law. Here was the meeting point of two dissimilar civilizations; the Roman ideal inherited by Spain, and the Anglo-Saxon bequeathed to America by the fathers Of the Founders of the Republic. That the younger and more virile prevailed was to be expected, but in the process of reconciling their discordant elements, the picturesqueness and glamor of the romantic past have not been entirely thrown aside. The growth of American ideas amid alien surroundings, as told so intimately and with so much color by William Heath Davis, has cast upon California an air of mystery and adventure unknown to any other section of these United States. </P>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Francisco</HI>
025.sgm:,<HSEP>DOUGLAS S. WATSON.  <HI REND="italics">December</HI>
025.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>1</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">This drawing by Louis Choris, painter attached to the Kotzebue exploring expedition sent out from Russia in the ship "Rurick," shows the Presidio as it appeared in October, 1816.  The quadrilateral, consisting of barracks and storerooms, has disappeared except for a portion of the southern side, now used as the Officer's Club</HI>
025.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I<LB><HI REND="italics">Author's First Arrival in California</HI>
025.sgm:<P>I FIRST came to California in 1831, seventeen years before the discovery of gold in Sutter's mill-race, and later married into a native California family of Spanish extraction. Residing in the department and the State ever since, except when absent from it on business, I have had an extended experience in the manners and customs of the people, their methods of trade, of the social and political history of the department and its successor the State, as that history was evolved through all the stirring events of that period, to the American occupation. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There is an undercurrent in social life abounding in genial interchange of amenities, which is preserved only in tradition, to be recited in family circles, and from this source I have obtained much valuable information. </P>
025.sgm:<P>All this has enabled me in these personal recollections, to rescue from oblivion events that are herein recorded, narrations of which cannot be found elsewhere. They also present an insight to the energy, enterprise, trials, misfortunes and triumphs of those men who laid the foundation of that prosperity which places California in the front rank among the most favored States of the Union. </P>
025.sgm:<P>My first visit to California was in 1831, in the bark "Louisa" of Boston, Captain George Wood, with J. C. Jones as supercargo and owner and Charles Smith as assistant supercargo. She had come from Boston with a cargo of assorted merchandise to the Sandwich Islands, where she disposed of a portion of her goods, and sailed thence to Sitka, and from there to Monterey, to Santa Barbara, to San Pedro (the port of Los Angeles), and to San Diego, trading at each of these points. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In trading at Sitka on this trip, we took furs and Russian money in payment for goods disposed of there. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At that time Sitka presented many points of interest. Besides the government fort, the different residences of the governor and his staff were fine buildings, in the shape of castles or round towers; each mounted with guns, as a protection against Indians, who were very hostile. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The office of governor was both civil and military. He and his officers were gentlemen, highly educated, refined in manners, intelligent and courteous. They received us with great hospitality. </P>
025.sgm:<P>These gentlemen were from the nobility of Russia. Their wives and daughters were exceedingly beautiful and highly accomplished; they were of medium height, delicate and symmetrical in form and figure, and exceedingly graceful in their walk and carriage. What struck me particularly was the wonderful transparency of their complexions and their rosy cheeks. At my age I was much impressed with their handsome appearance. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Most of the gentlemen and ladies spoke French and English in addition to their own language. They gave family parties and balls for our entertainment, which were conducted with great elegance and refinement. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In return we gave two or three entertainments on board the "Louisa," the vessel on each occasion being handsomely decorated with the flags of almost every nation, the Russian flag flying at the foremast. On the arrival of the governor with his staff, and the ladies of their families, he received a salute corresponding to his rank. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At San Diego we received many hides from the "Volunteer," an American bark, Captain J. O. Carter, supercargo Ebbetts; that vessel as well as the "Louisa" being owned by J. C. Jones, who was a Boston merchant engaged in trading to ports on the Pacific coast and the Islands. From San Diego we sailed for Honolulu, with a full cargo of hides and a deck load of horses. The horses were disposed of at Honolulu, and the hides taken in the vessel to Boston on her return voyage. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Among the residents of Monterey at that time were David Spence, Captain J. B. R. Cooper, Nathan Spear, James Watson, George Kinlock, William E. P. Hartnell, and these men were the most prominent of the foreigners. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The first three named were engaged in merchandising. Kinlock was a ship and house carpenter. Hartnell was an instructor in the employ of the MexiCan government in the department of California, of which Monterey was the capital. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1833 I visited the coast again in the Boston bark "Volunteer," Captain Thomas Shaw; J. C. Jones, owner and supercargo; Sherman Peck, assistant supercargo. Jones went from Boston to the Sandwich Islands about 1820 or 1821, and became U. S. Consul, and during his consulship made voyages between Boston and the Islands and other points. During his absence his duties were performed by a deputy, Stephen Reynolds, of Boston.  We arrived at Monterey and sailed thence to San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, San Pedro, San Diego, and returned, touching and trading at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>As the "Volunteer" approached the bay of San Francisco on the trip from the south just mentioned, she was becalmed and compelled to lie to in a fog. About 11 o'clock in the forenoon the fog lifted and disappeared from the horizon, and as it did so we noticed the English brig "Ayacucho," also becalmed, lying near us, almost within hailing distance, she also having just come from the southern ports, bound for Yerba Buena. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We were then about twenty-five miles west of the entrance to the bay. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The "Ayacucho" was claimed by her owners to be the fastest vessel on the coast, and this was conceded by all the captains except Captain Shaw of the "Volunteer," who was very proud of our pretty bark, and her superior sailing qualities, and had often remarked to me that he desired an opportunity for a trial of speed between the two vessels. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The opportunity now presented itself, and he determined to avail himself of it, to the delight of all on board. The captain gave orders to prepare for the exciting race, which were obeyed with alacrity by all with smiling faces. The "Ayacucho" being a little to the west of us, took the trade wind first, it having sprung up as the fog cleared, and so had the lead. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Shaw, approaching me on the quarter-deck, said, "Billy, she will not maintain that position long." The breeze freshened, both vessels put on more sail, and we began slowly and surely to gain on the brig. Captain Shaw, standing by the man at the wheel, said, "I want to pass her within hailing distance." "Aye, aye, sir," was the response. When abreast of the brig, Captain Shaw called to the steward to bring him the speaking trumpet, and on receiving it, he hailed the other vessel with "Captain Wilson how do you do?" The reply came, "I am well, thank you; Captain Shaw, you are gaining on me fast." When the stern of our vessel was about abreast of the forecastle of the brig, three cheers from the "Volunteer" rent the air, spontaneously given by the crew, and they were returned from the brig. We anchored about fifteen minutes before she did, in the present <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The race had been very exciting, both vessels flying their national colors, and spreading their sails to the fullest extent, the captain of each standing on the quarter-deck, watching every movement and trimming sails to catch every portion of the breeze. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the evening, the captain and supercargo of the "Ayacucho" came on board the "Volunteer," and spent a few hours, and the race formed the subject of conversation; Wilson admitting that he was fairly beaten for the first time. A good many social glasses passed over the event, and the best feeling prevailed. This little episode was an illustration of the national feeling of pride existing between the English and Americans. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Presidio was the military post, where all the white inhabitants lived, and was commanded by Captain M. G. Vallejo, later General Vallejo. There were probably at the barracks, including soldiers, between two and three hundred men, women and children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The soldiers were native Californians, all vaqueros, all horsemen. Captain Vallejo was then only recently married to his beautiful bride, Dona Francisca Benicia Carrillo.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Note:  Benicia, California, is named for Gen'l Vallejo's wife.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>Among the foreigners who were here at that time were Captain William A. Richardson, a native of England, the owner of the Saucelito ranch, who was married to the daughter of the late Captain Ygnacio Martinez, who commanded the Presidio and Fort Point military posts previous to the command of Vallejo; John Read, of Ireland, who subsequently was the owner of the Read ranch adjoining the Saucelito ranch; Timothy Murphy, of Ireland, and James Black, of Scotland. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Murphy was a sea otter-hunter, making his headquarters at the Presidio and the Mission of San Rafael. Sea otter were plentiful in the bay, and at Bodega and other points along the coast. The skins were quite valuable, worth from $40 to $50, and sometimes as high as $60 apiece. They were sold to the Boston ships that traded on the coast. Read became a stock-raiser on his ranch. Richardson commanded a vessel, and traded up and down the coast, and on the coast of Peru and Chile. He made his headquarters at Yerba Buena. He got his goods at Callao and Lima, mostly English and German, which had been sent there from Europe. For them he exchanged tallow and furs which he had collected about the coast. He was sailing for a Lima house. Black was a cattle-raiser and otter-hunter, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The trade on the coast at that time was mostly a barter trade. The currency was hides and tallow, with considerable sea otter, land otter and beaver skins, the latter being obtained on the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II  <HI REND="italics">The Mission of San Francisco de Asis</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE Mission of San Francisco de Asis, usually called the Mission Dolores, situated one league from the site of Yerba Buena, on the west side of the bay of San Francisco, contained at this time, August, 1833, about 2000 Indians, more or less civilized, well clothed. Among them were blacksmiths, shipwrights, carpenters, tailors, shoe-makers and masons, all of whom had learned these trades at the Mission, under the superintendence of the Padres. They had also learned the Spanish language, as a general thing had acquired habits of industry, and had become civilized and Christianized.  Many of them could read and write </P>
025.sgm:<P>Padre Quijas was at the head of the Mission Dolores, and administrator of the establishment. He had about 10,000 head of cattle, many thousand head of horses and mares, and a vast number of sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The domain of the Mission extended to what is now known as San Mateo, including the rancho of Buri-buri, formerly owned by Don Jos&eacute; Sanchez and his family. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I visited the Mission Dolores frequently during our stay at the port here, was always kindly received by the Padre, and drank as fine red California wine as I ever have since, manufactured at the Mission from grapes brought from the Missions of Santa Clara and San Jos&eacute;. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Indians were captured by the military who went into the interior of the country in pursuit of them, detachments of soldiers being frequently sent out from the Presidio and other military posts in the department on these expeditions, to bring the wild Indians into the Missions to be civilized and conVerted to Christianity. Sometimes two or three hundred would be brought in at a time--men, women and children--from the foothill region of the Sierra Nevadas and the San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys. They were immediately turned over to the Padres at the different Missions, generally with a guard of a corporal and ten soldiers to assist the priest in keeping them until they had become somewhat tamed.  They were kindly treated, and soon became domesticated and ready and eager to adopt the <illus entity="a025-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CA&Ntilde;IZARES' MAP OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY, 1781  <HI REND="italics">From Padre Francisco Palou's Life of Junipero Serra</HI>
025.sgm:.  L. Point Lobos<HSEP>D. Lime Point<HSEP>V. Mission Dolores  I. Fort Point<HSEP>T. Entrance to Mission Creek (Channel Street S. Hunter's Point  C. Point bonita<HSEP>X. Presidio<HSEP>H. San Pablo Bay</P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>After they had become adapted to their new condition their influence on the later arrivals of Indians was very marked. These yielded much more readily to the civilizing influence exerted upon them than those first captured. They were baptized and the children christened and taught in schools and in habits of industry. Many of them were employed to look after the stock belonging to the Missions, and became expert horsemen and vaqueros. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During our stay in the bay (about three or four weeks) we sold some fifteen or twenty thousand dollars' worth of goods to Padre Quijas. We received in payment hides and tallow, sea and land otter skins, and beaver skins, and also some Spanish and Mexican doubloons, which had probably been laid away for many years. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The goods were mostly sugar, tea, coffee, clothing, and blankets for the Indians. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There were blankets manufactured at the Missions, of very coarse texture, from the wool of their sheep. They were known as Mission blankets, and used at the Missions mostly. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We also sold to the Missions of Santa Clara and San Jos&eacute; a large amount of goods, which was sent to them in launches to what is now known as Alviso Landing, for which we received in payment hides, tallow, furs and some coin--Mexican and Spanish doubloons. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Missions of Santa Clara and San Jos&eacute; were richer in cattle, horses and sheep than the Mission Dolores, and each of them had a much larger number of Indians. The Mission Dolores was considered a poor Mission compared to these other two. The Mission of San Rafael was also in existence, and that was inferior to the Mission Dolores. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1833 there was not a single inhabitant of what is now known as the City and County of San Francisco outside of the Presidio and the Mission. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the place where Portsmouth Square now is there was a growing crop of Irish potatoes--a patch about the size of the square--enclosed by a brush fence, the crop having been planted by Candelario Miramontes, who resided near the Presidio with his family. One of his sons loaned me a beautiful horse to ride to the Presidio and Mission Dolores whenever it suited my pleasure to do so. I had him picketed with a long rope, for pasturage, at a place which is now the block between Pacific and Jackson and Montgomery and Sansome streets. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When we left the bay of San Francisco we traded down the coast at different points. While stopping at Santa Barbara, Thomas O. Larkin, who was afterwards United States Consul at Monterey, was married on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The bride was a Massachusetts lady whose name has passed from my memory. We had a wedding festival, which was attended by the &eacute;lite of Santa Barbara--beautiful ladies, mothers and daughters, with their husbands and sons, all of Castillian extraction. There was music with dancing, commencing soon after the marriage, and kept up till a late hour in the evening. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Native California wine and imported sparkling champagne were freely used, and all had a Very enjoyable time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On reaching San Diego our vessel was turned over to Captain Joseph O. Carter, of the American schooner "Harriet Blanchard," both vessels being owned by J. C. Jones. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Shaw took command of the latter, and Jones and myself went in her to Honolulu, with a cargo of hides, some furs, and also thirty head of fine California horses for a deck load.  Sherman remained in the "Volunteer" as supercargo. The horses were sold at Honolulu and the hides transferred to another vessel about to sail for Boston. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III  <HI REND="italics">Wm. A. Richardson's Arrival 1822</HI>
025.sgm:<P>ON William A. Richardson's arrival here in 1822 the Mexican flag was floating over the Province, and Governor Sola, the last Spanish ruler, who had become reconciled to the new Mexican regime, was on the point of going to Mexico as a Deputy for California to the Mexican Congress. </P>
025.sgm:<P>RICHARDSON'S PETITION TO GOVERNOR SOLA. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"William A. Richardson, a native of Great Britain, and a resident of this Province, hereby respectfully represents: that he arrived at this port of San Francisco on the second day of August last, as mate of the British Whaleship Orion, and your Worship having approved of my staying here, and it being my intention to remain permanently and become domiciled in this Province at some place with suitable climate, I most humbly pray that your Worship be pleased to grant me this privilege and favor. </P>
025.sgm:<P>(signed) William A. Richardson.  San Francisco, Presidio, Oct. 7, 1822" </P>
025.sgm:<P>THE DECREE WRITTEN ON THE MARGIN OF THE ABOVE. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Monterey, October 12, 1822. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Being aware that the petitioner, besides being a navigator, is conversant with and engaged in the occupation of a carpenter, I hereby grant the privilege he asks for with the obligation that he shall receive and teach such young men as may be placed in his charge by my successor. </P>
025.sgm:<P>(signed) Sola." </P>
025.sgm:<P>William A. Richardson, an Englishman by birth, arrived at the Presidio of San Francisco, as chief mate of the British whaler Orion, on the second of August, 1822. He left his vessel and was permitted by the authorities to remain temporarily, but on the 7th of October, he concluded to settle permanently in California. He applied to Governor Pablo Vicente de Sola to grant him the privilege of domicile, which was acceded to on the 12th of October of the same year. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Richardson, during his stay at San Francisco, resided at the home of Lieutenant Ygnacio Martinez, then comandante of the Presidio. He noticed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>At the end of his charge, he married Maria Antonia, the eldest daughter of Comandante and Martina Martinez. The young couple were married at Mission Dolores by Father Jos&eacute; Altimira; the sponsors were the comandante and one of the bride's sisters. The wedding was made the occasion of a great feast. The families of the officers and others were present at the ceremony and banquet. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Se&ntilde;orita Maria Antonia was considered a belle of great beauty among the handsome women of the Presidio in the thirties. There was a romance connected with this marriage. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After the Orion had dropped anchor off the Presidio, the usual old anchorage, William A. Richardson, first mate, landed a boat's crew on the beach. He found there a portion of the inhabitants of the garrison who were attracted by the arrival of a foreign vessel in the bay. Among the number were the Se&ntilde;oritas of the Martinez household. As Richardson leaped from the boat to the landing, Se&ntilde;orita Maria Antonia Martinez exclaimed, with joy in her eyes, to her lady companions, "Oh, que hombre tan hermoso el estranjero que desembarco del bote; el va hacer mi novio y yo voy hacer su esposa."--Oh, what a handsome man that foreigner just landed from the boat. He will be my bridegroom, and I will be his wife. It was love at first sight. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Richardson was equally impressed then and there with the loveliness of Do&ntilde;a Maria Antonia. A match was made and two hearts were entwined as one, without the formality of expressing to each other orally their love and devotion. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The union was blessed with three children: namely, Francisco, Stephen and <ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Mariana, who later became the wife of Manuel Torres. The Torres <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">Lieutenant Wise in Chapter XII of his "Los Gringos," gives the following delightful portrait. "This anchorage (Sausalito) is a great resort for whale ships, coming from the north-west fishing grounds for water and supplies; the procurante of which was an English man, for many years a resident in the country, and possessing myriads of cattle, and a principality in land and mountains; among other valuables he was the sire of the belle of California, in the person of a young girl named Mariana. Her mother was Spanish, with the remains of great personal charms; as to the child 1 never saw a more patrician style of beauty and native elegance in any clime where Castillian donas bloom. She was brunette, with an oval face, magnificent dark gray eyes, with the corners of her mouth slightly curved downward, so as to give a proud and haughty expression to the face-in person she was tall, graceful and well shaped, and although her feet were incased in deer skin shoes, and her hands bare, they might have vied with any belles of our own.  I believe the lovely Mariana was as amiable as beautiful, and I know her bright eye glancing along the delicate sights of her rifle, sent leaden missives with the deadly aim of a marksman, and that she rode like an angel, and could strike a bullock dead with one quick blow of a keen blade, but notwithstanding these domestic accomplishments and Anglo-Saxon lineage, she held the demonios Yankees in mortal abhorrence; but who could blame her, they had murdered a brace of her handsomest lovers, and this, in California, where lovers were scarce, was a crime not to be forgiven."<LB>Note. The murder of the deHaro twins and Berryessa by Kit Carson and Fr&eacute;mont's Delaware Indians at San Rafael in June, 1846 is the occurrence referred to by Lieut. Wise above.<LB>See appendix under Jasper O'Farrell's Signed Statement; page 345.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>On the third day after his marriage Richardson found it necessary to go to the Mission of Solano at Sonoma, the military headquarters of the northern frontier, conveying in the vessel he had built, and which he had named Maria Antonia after his wife, a bell for the mission church. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Four or five months later he made a voyage to Sitka in the Maria Antonia to bring merchandise which was very scarce in the Department.  He was back in six months with the commodities that were disposed of in San Francisco District and other parts about the Bay. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During Richardson's absence, his wife gave birth to a girl, named Mariana. With a few days difference, Mrs. Richardson's mother also gave birth to a girl, named Rafaela. On Richardson's return, the babies were held in the hands of the two mothers, who had exchanged the little ones just before the time of the first presentation to him. He was asked which was his child and at once recognized his own, which created a great deal of merriment in the two families, and among the visitors gathered for the occasion. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1829 Richardson started for Los Angeles to see what he could do there, and he noted that there was a great scarcity of goods. Without loss of time, he built another schooner at San Pedro in order to make a voyage to Peru, and bring back to Los Angeles and the vicinity the much desired merchandise. Before taking his departure he sent for his family. This first voyage to South America took place about 1831, and occupied nine months. He rejoined his family at the Mission of San Gabriel, where he sold some of the goods he had brought from Peru, and also sold his vessel. He bought a drove of horses, and took his family overland to Yerba Buena. He had, thus early, an idea that San Francisco, or Yerba Buena as it was then called, was destined to become a city of great importance, and in all likelihood, a part of the United States. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Richardson and his family settled in Yerba Buena in 1835. His only daughter, Mariana, was then about nine years old. There were no friction <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Some time after Richardson had fixed his residence at Yerba Buena, he heard that a vessel was at the Presidio. He soon ascertained that it was the brig Ayacucho, commanded by his friend Captain John Wilson, who, descrying a man on the beach, sent a boat ashore, and Richardson, going on board, piloted the vessel into Yerba Buena Cove. After the vessel cast anchor, Captain Richardson and his friends, Wilson and the supercargo James Scott, came on shore and visited Richardson's tent, the domicile of the family. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This tent was the first habitation ever erected in Yerba Buena. At the time, Richardson's only neighbors were bears, coyotes and wolves. The nearest people lived either at the Presidio or at Mission Dolores. The family lived under that tent about three months, after which Richardson constructed a small wooden house, and later a large one of adobe on what is now Dupont (Grant Avenue) near the corner of Clay Street. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After Richardson came Jacob P. Leese and Jos&eacute; Joaquin Estudillo. Lots at that time were one hundred varas square (275 x 275 feet), and were granted by the Alcalde for the sum of twenty-five dollars. Another early settler was Do&ntilde;a Juana Briones, who lived to be a centenarian. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During Richardson's long life in California he made friends with all who came in contact with him in social or business relations. They were firmly attached to him for his goodness. He had not a single enemy, because his heart and nature were noble. He was seized with a desire at all times to serve his fellow beings in their hours of need. He was incapable of saying no to a deserving applicant for alms. It was inconsistent with the impulses of his nature; a birth-right inherited from his pure Anglo-Saxon parents. He was a handsome man, above medium height, with an attractive face, winning manners, and a musical voice, which his daughter, Mariana, inherited. </P>
025.sgm:<P>My knowledge of the captain dates back to July  1838 when I was in the employ of Nathan Spear. Richardson was the grantee of the Saucelito rancho with thousands of cattle, horses and sheep. His family had two residences, one at Yerba Buena, an adobe dwelling, a structure of primitive architecture, which contained a parlor, commodious bedrooms and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>At the time of my acquaintance with this good man, he was Captain of the Port and Bay of San Francisco, under the immediate direction of General Vallejo, who was the comandante general. General Vallejo appreciated Richardson's experience as a sea-faring man, and as the General expressed it, Richardson was the right man in the right place. Both men respected each other, and their official and social relations were as smooth and as placid as the waters of the anchorage of Saucelito or Richardson's bay on a calm day. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I knew Mrs. Richardson personally as far back as the year 1838. She was a model of grace and dignity with a face full of expression. Do&ntilde;a Maria Antonia was truly entitled to be called a Spanish beauty. She was gifted with vivacity and intelligence, and a little spice of satire gave an added charm to her winning manners. She came from a family of good looking brothers and sisters. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Anterior to the year 1838 Captain Richardson had piloted vessels of war in and out of the Bay. His long practice as a mariner made him one of the best pilots for the Bay and the bar beyond the Golden Gate. Admirals and Commodores of different nationalities would communicate with him from Callao, Valparaiso and from Honolulu, that in case a vessel of their squadrons should visit San Francisco, she would fire two guns, one after the other, outside the heads. This was the signal for Richardson to go out and pilot her in. The Captain had eight trained Indians, who had become proficient boatmen. They lived on the premises at the Captain's home in Sausalito. At the report of one or two guns from outside the Bay, Captain Richardson would whistle three times which was the order for the Indian crew to repair at once to the boat which was moored close at hand. Away the surf boat would slip through the water with Richardson in the stern steering, and the aboriginal boatmen bending to their oars with a will to board the man-of-war. These Indians would do anything to serve and please the Captain. He was kind to them and they loved him. </P>
025.sgm:<P>William A. Richardson was a master mariner trading up and down the coast of California in the thirties with assorted cargoes for a Lima house, which were exchanged for hides and tallow, the currency of the country. Richardson was considered a bold navigator, but not a rash one. He was a man of judgment, and never abused it. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During the summer months the westerly winds prevail on the coast of California. It is a dead beat from San Diego to San Francisco against strong trade winds. Richardson had a perfect knowledge of the coast.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>These winds, right off the land, from the direction of about east or east north-east, six or seven knots strong, extended only a few miles out to sea. I have observed the log at nine knots and as high as ten knot breezes an hour, with every sail set, with the sheets of the main and foresails a little free, and the braces of the yards of the upper canvas consistent with the lower canvas. At this rate of sailing slantingly along the shore line through smooth water, the vessel was approaching her destination northwardly much faster than another vessel beyond the line of the land breezes away out at sea battling against strong westerly winds to reach her port of destination from leeward or sourthern ports. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Captain John C. Fr&eacute;mont came from Sonoma to the region now within the County of Marin in 1846, William A. Richardson was at his Saucelito rancho with his family. Fr&eacute;mont's visit with an armed force of about one hundred men, caused great alarm among the native Californian families residing on the north side of the Bay of San Francisco. All the women and children, numbering one hundred and more, sought refuge at Richardson's rancho, and remained there about fifteen days, camped near his residence, and he made them as comfortable as possible under the circumstances. During their stay Richardson supplied the refugees with one beef and four sheep daily, which were slaughtered for their support. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The alarm was caused by Fr&eacute;mont's unlawful proceedings. He also camped with his men three days at Sausalito, and forced Richardson to furnish the party with beef and mutton. Fr&eacute;mont personally demanded the best the place afforded, such as milk, butter, eggs, chickens and other luxuries. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Richardson went to see Fr&eacute;mont at San Rafael, and besought him not to permit his men to commit outrages at his home, because it was filled with helpless women and children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fr&eacute;mont took away all the broken horses, consisting of several caperonas, and left Richardson with only four saddle horses for the use of the rancho of two or three thousand head of animals. He did not pay for the animals, nor even give vouchers for them. He did the same with all the horses belonging to Timothy Murphy. Mariana, Richardson's daughter, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In 1850, I owned and had the bark Hortensia lying at anchor at San Diego in ballast, ready for any adventure that might offer a profitable voyage. Richardson was our guest at the time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When the grant was made to the original projectors of New San Diego, now the City of San Diego, there was a condition in the deed that the grantees Should, within one year, build a wharf and warehouse on the site deeded by the Alcalde and Sub-Prefect. The Proprietors of the new town proposed that I should accept from them some of the realty in the new town for complying with the conditions above mentioned. This I accepted. The deed to the property was made to William A. Richardson and myself. Thus we became partners in the construction of the compulsory improvement at San Diego. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Hortensia was well adapted as a carrier of piles and other material for the first wharf at San Diego. In June 1850, Captain Richardson sailed in the Hortensia as master, bound north for Saucelito. The morning he weighed anchor to beat down the narrow channel from the present City of San Diego to La Playa, he had only five men, one of whom was a vaquero by occupation, and not one of the five had ever been to sea as a member of a crew. He had no mate to help work the vessel up the coast against strong head winds. The Hortensia was a bark of three hundred tons measurement. I received a letter from Santa Barbara that he had made a good passage to that port, and that he would leave for Saucelito direct the following day with the same crew of five men. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This voyage in the Hortensia has always been a mystery to me; how he could navigate a vessel without mates, change watches with no one to relieve the captain, and without cook or steward provide food for those on board. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Captain arrived at Saucelito in a remarkably quick passage, with very few hands to work the bark, to set the sails, take in reefs in the sails in stormy weather, steer the vessel day and night, and other compulsory duties necessary for the safety of the bark and all on board. Richardson was in all respects a navigator, a seaman of great self-reliance and was perfectly at home in his own vessel, provided he had plenty of corned beef on board, for he was passionately fond of that meat, even though he had scarcely help enough to work her. He hugged the shore line, the roaring surf, the rocky points usually enveloped in smothers of foam. He knew well the locations of the dangerous shoals along the coast, to these he gave plenty of sea room. </P>
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025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV  <HI REND="italics">Author Returns on "Don Quixote</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE "Don Quixote" arrived in Santa Barbara from Boston <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
025.sgm:<P>At the above date Governor Alvarado was at his headquarters at Santa Barbara provisionally, and the brothers Carrillo were at Los Angeles. They met on the plains of Los Angeles, where a battle ensued, and four or five horses on each side were shot; but none of the soldiers lost their lives-not even one was wounded--though the conflict lasted for a day or two, as they took the precaution to keep at a safe distance from each other. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alvarado's force was commanded by General Jos&eacute; Castro, and the revolutionary party by Jos&eacute; Antonio Carrillo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alvarado sustained his authority as governor of the department of California, and the revolutionists were considered as subdued after this bloodless conflict. Some of the leaders were taken prisoners, but shortly after released, and the remainder dispersed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Previous to this affair our vessel was ordered by Alvarado to go from Santa Barbara to Monterey to enter, that being the only port of entry in the department. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At Monterey I stopped with Major William Warren, then keeping a store there for Nathan Spear, who had also a commercial establishment at Yerba Buena in company with Jacob P. Leese and William S. Hinckley. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During my stay there of two or three weeks, the severe earthquake of June, 1838, took place. At Monterey at that time were David Spence, Thomas O. Larkin, later U. S. consul from 1844 to 1846, John B. R. Cooper, Major William Warren, James Watson, a grocer, George Kinlock, James Stokes, merchant, Edward T. Bale, physician, a native of England, William P. Hartnell, the Mexican government instructor and interpreter. These were the prominent foreigners there.  Among the Mexicans and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>At that time the following vessels were trading on the coast: The English brig "Ayacucho," the Ecuadorian brig "Delmira," Captain John Vioget,  supercargo and owner Don Miguel Pedrorena;  the  ship "Alert," ship "California," the Mexican brig "Catalina," Captain Jo. Snook, supercargo Don Eulogio de C&eacute;lis; the Mexican bark "Clarita," Captain Wolter; same supercargo as the "Catalina;" the Mexican Government schooner "California," Captain Cooper; and the Boston bark "Don Quixote," Captain John Paty. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I sailed from Monterey to Yerba Buena in the ship "Alert," well known as the vessel on which Dana served for two years, which experience gave rise to his book, "Two Years Before the Mast." She was commanded by Captain D. P. Penhallow, supercargo Thomas B. Park. The ship was owned in Boston by Bryant &amp; Sturgis, and was on this coast trading for hides, tallow and furs. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It was at this time, while I was staying with Major William Warren that Captain Penhallow of the Alert, who was very jocular and mischievous at times at the expense Of his intimate friends, played a severe trick upon "Mine host." Six or seven friends of the Major were seated at table at dinner in the evening. Among the number, Penhallow, who had brought in a live, harmless snake, wrapped up in a paper, which he quietly placed under the host's plate before he had come to the table. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Imagine the horror and indignation the noble and hospitable William Warren experienced upon turning his plate over preparatory to serving his guests. Warren was a portly man of over two hundred pounds in weight, his eyebrows and eyelids were decidedly blonde, and his complexion florid. When he saw the reptile he was startled, screamed and almost fainted, turning pale as a ghost. But it was all over in a few moments. The Major retired from the table disgusted, with a remark to Penhallow, that young Davis might serve the guests with Penhallow's snake dinner. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At first the guests suppressed their laughter, but it was impossible to conceal the mirth long, as the ludicrous features of the scene, although repulsive, were such as to cause both amazement and merriment, especially the appearance of our host who looked so scared and demoralized. Major Warren was a good, kindly man, and a favorite with supercargoes and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>On arriving at Yerba Buena I went into the employ of Nathan Spear, and soon became his managing active business man. </P>
025.sgm:<P>He was a native of Boston, Mass., brother of Paul Spear, a prominent apothecary in Boston, and visited Monterey, California, as early as 1823, in the American schooner "Rover," together with Captain J. B. R. Cooper. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Nathan Spear was one of the first merchants at Monterey and Yerba Buena, and kept a stock of general merchandise, which was sold to the native California farmers and stock-raisers around the bay. The goods were carried to different points by two little schooners owned by Spear, named the "Isabel" and "Nicholas." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Spear informed me that during the earthquake of June, '38, before mentioned, a large sand-hill standing in the vicinity of what is now Fr&eacute;mont street, between Howard and Folsom, and between which and the bay at high tide there was a space of about twenty feet, permitting a free passage along the shore to Rincon Point (the coves of which were then much resorted to for picnics and mussel parties), was moved bodily close to the water, so as to obstruct the passage along the shore. After that no one could pass there at high tide, and we were compelled to go around back of the sand hill, and wade through the loose sand to reach that point, a much more laborious walk. </P>
025.sgm:<P>He further remarked that Loma Alta (Telegraph Hill) swayed from east to west and from west to east, as if the big mountain would tumble over. At the Mission Dolores there was no injury to church buildings or to dwellings; but at the Presidio the walls of some of the old dwellings were cracked. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The earthquake had occurred just before my arrival at Monterey. Major Warren told me that it was the severest one he had ever experienced, and it seemed to him as if the town would be destroyed during the vibration. The inhabitants were frightened out of their wits. Crockery and glassware were broken, and some of the walls of the adobe dwellings were cracked. It was a shake of no ordinary severity, and the town of Monterey was pretty well shaken up. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Early in the spring of '39, the American ship "Monsoon," of Boston, Captain George Vincent, Thomas Shaw supercargo, arrived at Yerba Buena from Monterey with an assorted cargo. My brother, Robert G. Davis, from Boston, was a clerk on board. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the month of June the brigantine "Clementine," Captain Blinn, arrived <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>We left Yerba Buena on the 9th of August, 1839, from alongside the ship "Monsoon" (the only vessel in the bay) for the Sacramento valley, concerning which there was but little known at that time. It had no inhabitants but Indians, many of whom were Mission Indians who had left as the Missions became impoverished and located there. They returned to their former uncivilized life, making occasional visits to the different ranchos to steal horses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The fleet was about eight days going up the river; every night we would stop at the bank, and Captain Sutter would make excursions from the river to examine the country, looking for a suitable place to establish himself. His idea was to settle, and obtain grants from the Mexican government. I think he had an understanding with that government before he went there, probably with the Mexican minister in the United States. When stopping along the bank of the river at night we could not obtain any rest on account of the immense multitude of mosquitoes which prevailed, exceeding anything we ever experienced before. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The last afternoon we anchored in front of what is now Sacramento City, and saw on the banks of the river some seven or eight hundred Indians, men, women and children. We prepared ourselves for an attack, but our fears proved groundless. They came off to our anchorage in large numbers in canoes made of tules. That afternoon we weighed anchor and went into the American river, landed, pitched tents, and made preparations to occupy the country. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter immediately mounted his brass cannons; all his small arms were made ready for defense against the Indians in case of necessity, and camp established. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the way up the Sacramento river, Captain Sutter being on board my schooner, which was considered the flag-ship of the fleet, communicated to me his plans. He said, as soon as he found a suitable site he would immediately build a fort, as a means of defense against the Indians, and also <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter was a native of Switzerland, an educated and accomplished gentlemen, and a very agreeable and entertaining companion. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Having accomplished my purpose of landing Captain Sutter at the junction of the American and Sacramento rivers with his men and his freight, the following morning we left him there, and headed the two vessels for Yerba Buena. As we moved away Captain Sutter gave us a parting salute of nine guns--the first ever fired at that place--which produced a most remarkable effect. As the heavy report of the guns and the echoes died away, the camp of the little party was surrounded by hundreds of Indians, who were excited and astonished at the unusual sound. A large number of deer, elk and other animals on the plains were startled, running to and fro, stopping to listen, their heads raised, full of curiosity and wonder, seemingly attracted and fascinated to the spot, while from the interior of the adjacent wood the howls of wolves and coyotes filled the air, and immense flocks of water fowl flew wildly about over the camp. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Standing on the deck of the "Isabel" I witnessed this remarkable sight, which filled me with astonishment and admiration, and made an indelible impression on my mind. This salute was the first echo of civilization in the primitive wilderness so soon to become populated, and developed into a great agricultural and commercial centre. We returned the salute with nine cheers from the schooners, the vessels flying the American colors. The cheers were heartily responded to by the little garrison, and thus we parted company. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The voyage down the river occupied eight days. As we approached its termination we were nearly starved. We were reduced to living on brown sugar, that being all that remained of our provisions. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The day before we reached Yerba Buena we anchored where the town of Martinez now is, the place being then known as Ca&ntilde;ada del Hambre (Valley of Hunger), from the fact that on one occasion a company of soldiers who were out campaigning against the Indians found themselves very hungry. While at this place we were without the means of obtaining food. Our own situation coincided with that of the soldiers, and we landed with a view to kill some game or capture a steer. We adopted the latter course. Jack Rainsford, who commanded the "Isabel," killed a fine steer belonging to Don Ygnacio Martinez, our necessity compelling this step, and we were thus supplied with plenty of good beef. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On meeting Don Ygnacio Martinez subsequently and informing him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V  <HI REND="italics">Russian American Fur Company</HI>
025.sgm:<P>ON my arrival in 1838 the Russian American Fur Company had a post at Bodega and also one at Fort Ross, with headquarters at the latter place. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pedro Kostromitinoff was the governor of the establishment, under lease from the Mexican government, which covered the privilege of hunting the sea otter and collecting forces at that point for that purpose, which lease expired a few years afterward. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Before the expiration of the lease Kostromitinoff was succeeded by Don Alexander Rotcheff, who sold the entire establishment, the improvements and everything, in 1841, to Captain John A. Sutter, of New Helvetia, which was the name of his fort on the Sacramento. The force engaged in hunting the sea otter numbered several hundred of Russians and Esquimaux, brought from Alaska with all their outfits-boats, skin canoes (made from the intestines of the whale) and their native instruments. </P>
025.sgm:<P>They were expert shooters with their Russian rifles, made for the purpose of killing otters, showing great skill in the business, which they carried on here the same as in Sitka. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Going out in their boats, the moment an otter appeared above the water a gun was raised and fired, instantly killing the animal, so expert were these hunters. Bodega was the port of outfit and delivery for the hunt. </P>
025.sgm:<P>These otters were captured in large quantities in the bay of San Francisco, and along the coast south and north of the bay; but the hunting was continued so persistently that they became scarce after a while and finally were killed out entirely. The skins varied from three and one-half to five and one-half feet in length, with a width of about three feet, and were dried at Bodega, and sent to Sitka in vessels that came, two or three yearly, for this freight, for wheat raised about the bay of San Francisco and soap made by the California farmers. The wheat and soap were for the supply of Sitka and other northern Russian posts in Alaska Territory. From Sitka these skins were sent to St. Petersburg. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Some of the men had their families with them. Don Pedro Kostromitinoff was unmarried; Don Alexander Rotcheff was a married man; and his wife was a beautiful Russian lady, of accomplishments. They lived at Fort Ross. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sutter bought whatever the Russian Company had, the buildings and all the fixtures of the places, both at Bodega and Fort Ross, for $50,000, payable in wheat, soap and furs, in yearly installments for five years, the purchase including several thousand cattle, horses and sheep. It was all paid for in the course of time as agreed by the articles named. The wheat was raised in the Sacramento valley in and around his establishment. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the first celebration of the fourth of July, in 1836, at Yerba Buena, the families of the prominent residents were invited to the festivity, which was managed by the Americans attached to the three or four American vessels in port, and those living on shore. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The celebration was at the residence of Jacob P. Leese, Situated at a point which is now Dupont street, (Grant avenue) near Clay street. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The invitations extended to the persons living about the bay were quite generally accepted. Among the most notable of them were: Don Joaquin Estudillo, with his beautiful wife and lovely daughter Do&ntilde;a Concepcion; Don Ygnacio Martinez, with his handsome daughters, Do&ntilde;a Susana, Do&ntilde;a Francisca, Do&ntilde;a Rafaela and Do&ntilde;a Dolores; Captain William A. Richardson with his wife and pretty daughter, Se&ntilde;orita Mariana, who was one of the belles of the country; Don Victor Castro and his amiable wife, Do&ntilde;a Luisa, daughter of Don Ygnacio Martinez; also the sub-prefect; Don Francisco Guerrero, and his pretty wife, Do&ntilde;a Josefa; and Alcalde Don Francisco de Haro, with his charming daughters, Rosalia and Natividad. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Salutes were fired from the vessels at meridian of the Fourth, a grand dinner took place during the evening, and there was music as well as dancing after the banquet, kept up till the dawn of the next day. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the fifth, picnics took place, as a continuation of the festival, generally at Point Rincon; the dance was resumed in the evening, and continued until the morning of the sixth, when the ladies had become so exhausted that the festivities ceased. This celebration was kept up year after year on the Fourth, for a long time, until the change of the government from Mexico to the United States, being attended by the native ladies of California, many of whom were noted for their beauty, and such American gentlemen as were here at the time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Richardson was the captain of the port or bay of San Francisco for many years, an office of the department, under appointment from the Mexican governor of California; this position being equivalent to that of harbor-master <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The vessels which arrived in 1839 at Monterey, entered there, and traded at coast ports, as near as I can remember, were the ship "California," Captain Arther, from Boston, William D. M. Howard, cabin boy; the vessel was consigned to Alfred Robinson and Henry Mellus, agents for Bryant &amp; Sturgis, of Boston; the Baltimore brig "Corsair," Captain Wm. S. Hinckley, who was also owner and supercargo, from Callao; the ship "Fama," Captain Hoyer, A. B. Thompson owner and supercargo; the American schooner "Nymph," Captain Henry Paty, who was also supercargo, from Honolulu. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LEESE'S "DAM GOOD TRAID" LETTER TO SPEAR, UNCLE OF WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS, REGARDING THE BUILDING OF THE FIRST REAL HOUSE IN SAN FRANCISCO, THEN YERBA BUENA.</P>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI  <HI REND="italics">Jacob Primer Leese Arrives in 1833</HI>
025.sgm:<P>JACOB PRIMER LEESE, an old California argonaut, was born in Belmont County, Ohio, in or about 1809. He left home in 1821 and joined a company of hunters and trappers with whom he started from New Orleans bound for the Rocky Mountains. The company which had been fitted out by Caldwell, Coffee and Rogers, was known as the Independent Company. At Bent's Fort Leese became a partner of a company which had been organized there. He went to New Mexico in 183 I, and was engaged in business there until 1833, when he started and traveled through the wild country to reach California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In December 1833, while on this journey to California, and on reaching the Mesa of San Bernardino, Leese and his party found themselves short of provisions. A heavy snow storm came on, two feet of snow falling which covered everything. One day they went entirely without food, and as a last resort, Leese had to kill either his hunting dog, which he valued highly, Or a mule. To kill a mule under these circumstances was a very serious matter, and so the dog was sacrificed. The dog might have been spared could the owner of the faithful animal have foreseen the early change in the weather for the better. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Only six or eight hours after killing the dog, the weather became warm, the snow melted quickly, and the bellowing of a bull was heard. He was followed and slaughtered, but proved to be a very old bull, most of the meat being so tough that even the strong teeth of the young travelers could hardly masticate it. They managed, however, to appease their hunger. A few hours later the party reached the spot where the calves were feeding and experienced no further hardships regarding food. After resting and recruiting for about three days, they pursued their journey and reached the Mission San Gabriel where they were very hospitably received by the authorities and the missionaries of the church. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The winter of 1833-4 was a very rainy one, and Leese had to sojourn in Los Angeles for about three months. He was engaged in trading with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>After remaining in the south for some time, Leese in 1836 came to Monterey, where he formed a co-partnership with Nathan Spear and William S. Hinckley to transact business at Yerba Buena. This co-partnership <illus entity="a025-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JACOB PRIMER LEESE</P>
025.sgm:<P>In all my intercourse with Leese, I must say that I found him genial and companionable, as well as correct in business transactions. In the early history of Yerba Buena, Leese resided on the hill with his family, and adjoining his house was the store. This structure, erected of redwood boards, one story high, with a floor extending at least one hundred feet in front with a width of about thirty feet, were it standing today would face Dupont (Grant Avenue) Street looking east, being on the south-west corner of Clay Street. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At this place for about two years Leese did a large business in supplying the ranchos bordering the Bay of San Francisco with goods. The business was done in the name of Jacob P. Leese; Spear and Hinckley appearing as silent partners of the firm. The supply of goods came from Spear's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:large store at Monterey and was conveyed to Yerba Buena by vessels trading on the coast.  It was at his home, adjoining the store, that the first celebration in Yerba Buena of September Sixteenth, the Mexican national holiday, Occurred, and there likewise was subsequently observed with due honor <illus entity="a025-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CELEBRATION OF JULY 4, 1836, AND COMPLETION OF THE FIRST HOUSE IN YERBA BUENA, BUILT BY JACOB P. LEESE</P>
025.sgm:<P>In the same structure Leese entertained supercargoes and captains of vessels trading on the coast, besides governors, generals, prefects and alcaldes; likewise admirals, commodores and other officers of the foreign ships of war that visited the Bay of San Francisco. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the celebration of the American Independence in 1837, several vessels were in Yerba Buena Cove, namely: Ship Lagoda, Bradshaw, master and Thomas Shaw, supercargo, from Boston; ship California, Arther, master, supercargo William G. Gale, whose assistant was Alfred Robinson; British brig Ayacucha, John Wilson, master, Diego (James) Scott, supercargo. All these vessels were handsomely decorated for the occasion and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>About 1850 Jacob P. Leese conveyed to Thomas O. Larkin the property on Dupont (Grant Avenue) and Clay Streets in consideration of which the latter deeded his own real estate at Monterey to Leese, the same being later occupied by the Leese family. This was a barter trade. Larkin was number one, and Leese number two as to the relative value of the realty, due to the deterioration of real estate in one instance, and the rise in value in the other. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the latter part of 1838 Leese obtained from Governor Alvarado and the departmental assembly permission to erect a building in Yerba Buena near the beach. He moved to the new quarters in the early part of the following year, continuing there until he sold the premises to the Hudson's Bay Company in 1841, when William G. Rae took possession as agent. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leese then departed for Sonoma, where he resided and owned two fine ranchos, one bordering San Pablo Bay and the other situated at Clear Lake. Both ranchos were well stocked with cattle and fine horses, for he, as well as his brothers-in-law, Mariano G. Vallejo and Salvador Vallejo, took pains to breed properly; in other words, the stallion of each manada was not permitted to roam with its own progeny. The object of this was to avoid breeding from animals of the same blood, thus averting deterioration of the stock. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The rancho at Sonoma, called the Huichica, was only of five leagues in extent, but had very fine rich land, yielding abundance of grass for stock, which consisted of about fourteen hundred head of cattle, and three thousand horses and mares. The number of caponeras owned by Leese averaged eight or ten. It was a part of his business at that time to send horses to Oregon for sale to the Hudson's Bay Company, receiving in payment merchandise which he sold in Sonoma in exchange for hides, tallow, furs, coin, cattle and horses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Another piece of property which Leese owned was Clark's Point, known in former times as the Punta de la Loma Alta, now Telegraph Hill. It was granted to Leese and Salvador Vallejo in 1839 by Governor Alvarado and approved by the departmental assembly. The Mexican law regulating land grants forbade the granting of land bordering on the waters of Yerba Buena Cove, but the authorities assumed the responsibility of making an exception in the case of Vallejo and Leese. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The land was two hundred by one hundred varas and was bounded by Vallejo, Front, Pacific and Davis Streets. In 1848, William S. Clark and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>After California became a State, Leese commenced a civil action, in 1851 or 1852, to eject the squatter from the premises, Gregory Yale, F. J. Lippitt and others representing him at Judge Norton's Court. The case was before the court a long time, during which Clark was receiving and enjoying an income from the property and with the proceeds fought Leese in the courts. After some ten years litigation, numerous persons applied to Leese to convey to them his right, title and interest in the land in controversy in severalty. He accepted their offers, this being the only way to recover something in money from his property. He was induced to give up the litigation by an apprehension that his chances in the Supreme Court of the State were very slim, as he had understood that one of the justices of that court had, away from the bench, expressed himself adversely to Leese's interests. The property became immensely valuable because it borders on the deepest water fronting the City of San Francisco. There deep sea vessels can 'discharge. It is now covered with very extensive warehouses where the bulk of merchandise discharged from ships is deposited on storage. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Samuel Norris was interested with Leese in mining operations shortly after the gold discovery. To convey Indian laborers and supplies, Leese had horse teams which he kept plying between Sonoma and the Feather River, then the point of interest of the mining excitement, due to the great discovery. Such teams were extremely scarce and difficult to procure for a time, until the heavy overland immigration set in.  Captain, afterwards General, Henry W. Halleck, Thomas O. Larkin and Jacob P. Leese went to the mines to see for themselves. The last named of this party drove there eleven hundred head of cattle, and sold the greater part of them to Marshall, who at that time was buying all the cattle to supply the miners with beef. The sale averaged about twenty-five dollars a head. Leese and his traveling companions were not allowed the privilege of seeing much of the gold at the time, the persons interested in the mines making it a point to keep their operations secret. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leese made one voyage to China via Honolulu in a vessel called the Eveline. There he bought goods and brought them to San Francisco in the ship Diamond. These goods were transferred to and sold at Sonoma. The invoice cost was twenty thousand dollars, and from the sales of the merchandise Leese derived a handsome profit. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Jacob Primer Leese, a fine looking man, married at Sonoma in 1837 Se&ntilde;orita Rosalia Vallejo, sister of General Mariano G. Vallejo. Mrs. Leese was a tall, handsome, beautifully formed woman, full of vivacity and remarkably intelligent. She was noted for a proneness to sarcasm, which was a trait in the Vallejo family. Leese was a good marksman and he taught his wife the use of the rifle. She became quite expert with the weapon, and I have seen her make some extraordinary shots. Captain John Paty, Leese and others once had a shooting match at Rincon Point on Mission Bay, on which occasion Mrs. Leese exhibited her remarkable skill. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ELK CROSSING CARQUINEZ STRAITS  <HI REND="italics">Drawn under the personal direction off William Heath Davis to illustrate his story of the herds of these now almost extinct animals so plentiful in California before the discovery of gold by Marshall, January 24, 1848.</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII  <HI REND="italics">Elk on Mare Island</HI>
025.sgm:<P>ON Mare Island I often saw in the years from '40 to '43, as many as J two or three thousand elk, it being their habit to cross and re-cross on one by swimming between the island and the main land, and I remember on one occasion when on the schooner "Isabel," of sailing through a band of these elk, probably not less than a thousand, which were then crossing from Mare Island to the main land. It was a grand and exciting scene. The captain of the boat wanted to shoot at some of them, but I prevented him from doing so, because we could not stop to get the game on board and I did not like to see the elk wantonly destroyed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>These elk were killed for their hides and tallow by the rancheros in considerable numbers, at the time they slaughtered their cattle. They would go Out to the haunts of the elk, and capture them by the lasso, which was used by them on all occasions, and after killing the animals, secure the hides and tallow on the spot, leaving the carcasses. The tallow of the elk was superior to that of the bullock, whiter and firmer, and made better candles. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This work was much more dangerous and exciting than the killing of cattle, and required the very best broken saddle horses and those most accustomed to the lasso, and also the best vaqueros, on account of the strength, agility, fleetness and fierceness of the elk. Great skill was also required in throwing the lasso, (the loop of which was made larger than for cattle on account of the wide-spreading horns of the elk), and in holding them after the lasso was cast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1838 and 1839 the prominent ranches or cattle farms about the bay of San Francisco and in the vicinity were as follows: On the north side of the bay at the Mission of San Rafael were three or four thousand cattle and horses. At Bodega and Fort Ross, the Russian American Fur Company, which has already been described, had two or three thousand head of cattle, twelve or fifteen hundred horses and numerous sheep. At Petaluma, was the rancho of Don Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, with about ten thousand head of cattle, four to six thousand horses and a large number of sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Where the town of Santa Rosa now stands was the Rancho Santa Rosa, owned by Do&ntilde;a Maria Ygnacia Lopez Carrillo, with about three thousand head of cattle and twelve to fifteen hundred horses and some sheep. Adjoining the Santa Rosa on the north was the rancho of Marcus West, an Englishman, with about I 500 cattle and 500 or 600 horses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The rancho of Don Salvador Vallejo was located in Napa Valley, and contained from 5000 or 6000 cattle and about 2000 horses; adjoining him on the east was Nicolas Higuera, with about 2000 cattle and 1000 horses; to the south of the latter Cayetano Juarez, with a few hundred cattle and horses; adjoining him on the south was the Nacional Rancho Suscol in charge of General Vallejo. This was reserved by the Mexican government for the purpose of supplying the troops of the department of California with cattle and horses. It contained 5000 head of cattle, and two or three thousand horses, in charge of a corporal and eight or ten soldiers, the latter being utilized as vaqueros for the purpose of managing this stock. It may be mentioned here as a matter of interest that all the native Californians (the term meaning those of Spanish extraction) were trained to horsemanship, and naturally became vaqueros, being very expert with the reata and skilled in the training and management of horses and cattle. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the south side of Carquinez strait was the Rancho Pinole, owned by Don Ygnacio Martinez, with 8000 head of cattle and about 1000 horses. This rancho derived its name from the parched corn, ground up, known as pinole, and which was used everywhere and especially by the Mexican troops as food in their campaigns against the Indians; it was commonly mixed with a little <HI REND="italics">panoche</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Adjoining this rancho, on the southeast side, was the Rancho Boca de la Ca&ntilde;ada del Pinole, owned by Felipe Briones, with a few hundred cattle and horses; to the west of the Rancho Pinole was the San Pablo, owned by the Castro family, with four or five thousand head of cattle and one or two thousand horses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>To the south of San Pablo was the Rancho San Antonio, owned by Don Luis Peralta, who prior to his death divided the traCt among his four sons, Ygnacio, Domingo, Antonio Maria and Vicente. A portion of it is now occupied by the cities of Oakland and Alameda. This rancho carried 8000 head of cattle and 2000 head of horses and mares; it extended on the south to San Leandro creek. To the east of this was the Rancho Moraga, owned by Don Joaquin Moraga, with about 800 cattle and a few hundred horses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>South of San Antonio was the Rancho San Leandro, owned by Don <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>To the east of this was the rancho owned by Don Jos&eacute; Maria Amador and Don Dolores Pacheco residing at the Pueblo of San Jos&eacute;, with 6000 head of cattle and one to two thousand horses. To the east of them was the rancho of Robert Livermore, an Englishman, with two or three thousand cattle and one or two thousand horses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>To the south of Francisco Soto was the Mission of San Jos&eacute;, with 8000 head of cattle, and about 3000 horses, and eight to ten thousand sheep, and fifteen to eighteen hundred Christianized Indians, all under the charge of Don Jos&eacute; Jesus Vallejo, the administrator of the Mission. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the valley of San Jos&eacute;, extending from what is called Warm Springs, as far as thirty miles to the south of the town of San Jos&eacute;, and to the river Guadalupe on the west, there were numerous stock-raisers, having extensive ranchos, with an aggregate of not less than I 00,000 head of cattle, and probably 20,000 horses, and large flocks of sheep. At the rancho of Ygnacio Alviso, where the town of Alviso is located, there were three or four thousand head of cattle and about I 500 horses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the Mission of Santa Clara, to the west of the river Guadalupe, there were probably 1000 to 1500 cattle and horses. This Mission, anterior to 1834, was considered one of the richest in the department, but during the revolutions and civil wars in the country the military power in the vicinity of the Mission appropriated nearly all the horses and cattle belonging to it, and it therefore became impoverished. </P>
025.sgm:<P>To the northwest of Santa Clara was the Rancho Las Pulgas, (the Fleas), owned by the heirs of Governor Argello, with about 4000 head of cattle and 2000 horses. The towns of Belmont, Redwood City and Menlo Park are situated here. </P>
025.sgm:<P>To the northwest of the Las Pulgas was the Buri-buri rancho, with about 8000 head of cattle and 1000 horses, owned by Don Jos&eacute; Sanchez. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Henry D. Fitch, a native of New Hampshire, who came to the country in 1833 or '34, commanded vessels trading to Callao and other points on the coast, and afterwards settled at San Diego, where he married a sister of General Vallejo's wife, and engaged in merchandising. He was an honorable man, and very hospitable. Afterward, he obtained a grant of land, called Sotoyome (an Indian name) in Sonoma county, from Governor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>At San Diego, also, was Don Juan Bandini, a native of Peru, who married one of the Estudillo family. He was a man of decided ability and of fine character. He owned several ranches in San Diego and Los Angeles counties. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Abel Stearns married a daughter of Bandini, Do&ntilde;a Arcadia, who, after Stearns' death, married Colonel Baker, after whom Bakersfield was named. She was very beautiful. Her husband was one of the wealthiest residents of the State. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At San Diego was also Don Santiago Argello, a brother of Governor Argello. He was a prominent man, and prefect under Governor Alvarado, in Los Angeles, and he held other offices. </P>
025.sgm:<P>To the north of the bay of San Francisco, wild Indians, from the Clear Lake country, assisted in farm work, such as making soap, <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm: work, plowing lands for wheat, barley, beans, corn and small vegetables, onions peas, cabbages, <HI REND="italics">calabazas, lantejas</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Civilized Indians from the Missions were scattered about the country, and many were to be found on the different ranchos. They were of peaceable disposition, were employed as vaqueros, and helped the rancheros at the planting season and at harvest time.  I have often seen the Clear Lake Indians at their <HI REND="italics">temescales</HI>
025.sgm:<P>They remained there from half an hour to an hour, or until entirely heated through, so that the perspiration ran off them in streams. In that condition they rushed out, plunged into a pool in the creek nearby, cooled off and washed, after which they retired to their habitations. 1 frequently witnessed this steaming of the Indians at the rancho of Mrs. Carrillo, at Santa Rosa, and wondered that they were not instantly killed by the sudden transition from heat to cold; but never knew any of them to be injured by the practice. These performances always took place in the night. </P>
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025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII  <HI REND="italics">How the Missions were Supported</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE Missions exacted from the cattle owners a contribution known as <HI REND="italics">diezmo</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The cattle were slaughtered in the summer season; the killing commenced about the first of July and continued until the first of October, for the hides and tallow; about 200 pounds Of the best part of the bullock was preserved, by drying, for future consumption, the balance of the animal being left to go to waste; it was consumed by the buzzards and wild beasts. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The tallow was tried in large pots brought by the American whale ships--such as are used to try out their blubber, and was then run into bags made of hides, each containing twenty to forty arrobas. An arroba is twenty-five pounds. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In securing the tallow, the <HI REND="italics">manteca</HI>
025.sgm:, or fat lying nearest the hide of the bullock, was taken off carefully, and tried out apart from the interior fat, or <HI REND="italics">sebo</HI>
025.sgm:. The latter constituted the tallow for shipment; about seventy-five to one hundred pounds being obtained from each creature. The former, of which forty to fifty pounds were obtained, was more carefully and nicely prepared, and was saved for domestic use; in cooking being preferred to hog's lard. Sometimes the two were mixed, the latter not being used by itself. Whenever there was more of the <HI REND="italics">manteca</HI>
025.sgm: than was needed for the family, the Russians were eager purchasers for shipment and for their own use. It was sold for $2 per arroba, and the <HI REND="italics">sebo</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">manteca</HI>
025.sgm: required much attention in trying it out. Being of a more delicate nature than the other fat and more liable to burn, it was constantly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>At the ranchos very little use was made of milch cows for milk, butter or cheese. I have frequently drank my tea or coffee, without milk, on a ranch containing from 3600 to 8000 head of cattle. But in the spring of the year, when the grass was green, the wives of the rancheros made from the milk <HI REND="italics">asaderas</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The horns of the animals were considered of no value by the cattle owners, and were generally secured for nothing by the trading vessels on the coast, and shipped to Boston. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The horses were never stabled. They were broken for the saddle only, and were used almost wholly for herding cattle. They were divided up into <HI REND="italics">caponeras</HI>
025.sgm:, or small bodies of about twenty-five each, each <HI REND="italics">caponero</HI>
025.sgm: having a bell mare, which was always a <HI REND="italics">yegua pinta</HI>
025.sgm:<P>On a rancho with 8000 head of cattle there would be, say, twelve <HI REND="italics">caponeras</HI>
025.sgm:<P>A large number of horses were needed on each rancho for herding stock, as they were used up very fast. They were numerous and cheap, and the owners placed no restraint upon the vaqueros, who rode without a particle of regard for the horses, till they soon became unfit for further use in this way. The vaqueros were continually breaking in young colts three years old and upwards, to replace those already beyond service. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There were large bands of wild horses in the Valley of the San Joaquin, which at that time was entirely unsettled. At times, a few mares, and perhaps a young stallion, would stray away from a rancho and get out of reach, until in the course of time there were collected in that valley immense herds. thousands and tens of thousands of horses, entirely wild and untamed, living and breeding by themselves, finding there plenty of good feed to sustain them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Frequently during the summer time, young men, the sons of rancheros, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>It was very hazardous sport, and required the greatest nerve and the best horsemanship. If a rider found himself in the midst of a band of wild horses there was danger that he and his horse might be over-ridden and trampled to death. This sometimes occurred. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When fifty or sixty of the wild horses were thus captured, they were taken to the ranchos, corralled at night and herded in the daytime, until they became sufficiently subdued to be introduced among the horses of the ranch. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This was great diversion for the young men, and at the same time it added to their stock the best animals of the wild herds. It is presumed there were as many as fifteen or twenty thousand of wild horses in different bands, in the San Joaquin valley. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX  <HI REND="italics">Life on California Ranchos</HI>
025.sgm:<P>ALTHOUGH the cattle belonging to the various ranchos were wild, yet they were under training to some extent, and were kept in subjection by constant rodeos. At stated times, say, two or three times a week at first, the cattle on a partcular ranch were driven in by the vaqueros, from all parts thereof, to a spot known as the rodeo ground, and kept there for a few hours, when they were allowed to disperse. Shortly they were collected again, once a week perhaps, and then less seldom, until after considerable training, being always driven to the same place, they came to know it. Then, whenever the herd was wanted, all that was necessary for the vaqueros to do was, say twenty-five or thirty of them, to ride out into the hills and valleys and call the cattle, shouting and screaming to them, when the animals would immediately run to the accustomed spot; presently the whole vast herd belonging to the ranch finding their way there. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At times, cattle strayed from one ranch to another and got into the wrong herd. Whenever a rodeo was to be held, the neighbors of the ranchero were given notice and attended at the time and place designated. If any of these cattle were found in the band, they were picked out, separated, and driven back to the rancho where they belonged. As the cattle were all branded, and each rancho had ear-marks, this was not difficult. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sometimes when cattle were being herded in a rodeo, an obstinate or unruly animal, cow, steer or bull---commonly a bull--watching an opportunity, suddenly darted from the herd and ran away at full speed The vaquero, being always on the alert and knowing his duty well, immediately dashed out after the animal. Being on a fleet horse he presently came up with the runaway, and by a dexterous movement, leaning over his horse, seized the creature by the tail, when, urging the steed to an extra effort, the horse dashed forward, giving a sudden jerk, and the tail being let go by the vaquero at the right moment, the animal was rolled over and over on the ground. When it regained its legs it was completely subdued, tamely submitted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The capture was called <HI REND="italics">coller</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The rodeo ground was of circular shape; the vaqueros always left the cattle together in that form. When a rodeo took place, six or eight <HI REND="italics">cabestros</HI>
025.sgm:, or tame cattle, were brought together in a stand, or <HI REND="italics">parada</HI>
025.sgm:, about one hundred yards or more from the rodeo, in charge of a vaquero. When the cattle were to be selected from the rodeo, the vaqueros rode quietly in among them, in pairs, and two of them, seeing one they wanted to remove, gently approached the animal, one on each side, and, without making any disturbance, edged him along to one side of the rodeo ground opposite to where the <HI REND="italics">parada</HI>
025.sgm: stood. When they got just to the edge, they gave him a sudden start, by shouting " <HI REND="italics">hora</HI>
025.sgm: " (now), and off he went at full speed, followed by them. Seeing the <HI REND="italics">parada</HI>
025.sgm: a little distance off, the wild steer or cow generally made for that, or, if he or she turned to one side, was guided by the vaqueros, and, on reaching it, stopped with the tame cattle, or was compelled to if not so inclined. The cattle when taken first in this way to the <HI REND="italics">parada</HI>
025.sgm:, finding themselves with a strange set and few in number were uneasy; but the vaqueros continuing to bring in others, the numbers increasing rapidly, the new comers would feel more at home, and generally remained quiet. If one bolted from the <HI REND="italics">parada</HI>
025.sgm:, a vaquero pursued him and performed the <HI REND="italics">coller</HI>
025.sgm: movement, and he returned tamely and made no more trouble. As many as were required were brought to the <HI REND="italics">parada</HI>
025.sgm: by the vaqueros, until fifty or seventy-five were thus collected at times, as in the killing season, or a less number if selected to be returned to their owners, or for sale. Several pairs of vaqueros, or <HI REND="italics">apartadores</HI>
025.sgm:, were often engaged at the same time in the rodeo ground, taking out cattle to be removed and conducting them to different <HI REND="italics">paradas</HI>
025.sgm:<P>When the owners of adjoining ranchos came to the rodeo ground to select their cattle, they brought their own <HI REND="italics">cabestros</HI>
025.sgm:, and their own vaqueros, who went in and picked out the cattle belonging to their special ranchos, and took them to their own <HI REND="italics">paradas</HI>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The work of separating the cattle, while a necessity, was really more of an amusement than a labor, and I have frequently participated in it for the sport. On such occasions many persons from the different ranchos came, as at a cattle fair in the country in our day, to exchange greetings and talk over affairs. Sometimes they would amuse themselves by joining in the work with the vaqueros, in pairs, a point being not to disturb or frighten the whole mass of cattle on the rodeo ground. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">cabestros</HI>
025.sgm:<P>When the horses became disabled, or too poor for use, they were generally given away to the poorer people of the country, or to Indians who could make them useful. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The California horses were originally from Arabian stock, imported from Spain by the Padres at the time of the first establishment of the Missions. They had multiplied here extensively. At first it was very fine stock, but it became degenerated by breeding in, generation after generation, for over a hundred years. No attention was given by the rancheros to the production of good stock, either cattle or horses.  All <HI REND="italics">orejanos</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The marking season always commenced about the first of February in the southern counties, before the hot weather came on, and ended about the middle of May, when both horses and cattle were branded, ear-marked and castrated. Rodeos were held at marking and slaughtering times, and at other periods often enough to keep the animals subdued, and accustomed to the premises of the owner. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the killing season, cattle were driven from the rodeo ground to a particular spot on the rancho, near a brook and forest. It was usual to slaughter from fifty to one hundred at a time, generally steers three years old and upward; the cows being kept for breeding purposes. The fattest would be selected for slaughter, and about two days would be occupied in killing fifty cattle, trying out the tallow, stretching the hides and curing the small portion of meat that was preserved. The occasion was called <HI REND="italics">the matanza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The mode of killing cattle was thus: About fifty were driven into a corral near the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm: ground; a vaquero then went in on horseback and lassoed a creature by the horns, the end of the reata being already fastened to the pommel of the saddle, with as much thrown out as was necessary, only a portion being used in a small space like the corral, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The animal was brought out of the corral, and, another vaquero coming up, the animal when it reached the spot where it was wanted was lassoed by one or both hind legs, and at that moment the horse, by a sudden movement, jerked the animal to one side or the other, and it was thrown instantly to the ground. The man who had him by the head then backed his horse, or the horse, understanding the business perfectly, backed himself, until the whole reata was straightened out; and the horse of the vaquero who had the creature by the hind legs did the same, the latter vaquero meanwhile fastening his reata more securely to the saddle, and the two lines were drawn taut. The man at the tail end, then dismounting, tied the fore legs of the animal together with an extra piece of rope, and the hind legs also, drawing all the feet together in a bunch and tying them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During this operation the man and horse at the head stood firm, and the horse without the rider did the same, watching every movement, his ears moving back and forth; if there was any slacking of the reata from the motions of the animal, he backed a little further, without any direction from the vaquero, so intelligent and well-trained was the faithful beast. After the steer was thus tied, and powerless to rise, the reatas were taken from him entirely, and the man on foot stuck a knife in his neck. When he was dead, the two took off the skin in a short time, not over half an hour, so expert were they at the business. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At other times, not during the killing season, if a beef was required for family use, two vaqueros were detailed by the ranchero to go out and bring in a fat creature. They selected the best they could find from the cattle in the field, lassoed him and brought him in to the side or rear of the house, about 100 feet distant, and convenient to the kitchen, where the steer was lassoed by the hind legs, thrown over and killed, as above. The skin was laid back on the ground as it was taken off, and the creature was cut up on the skin. At this time nearly the whole of the meat was used, not merely the choice parts, as at the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm:. In cutting up the animal they first took off in a layer the <HI REND="italics">fresada</HI>
025.sgm:<P>I never knew an instance of a person of either sex or any age among the Californians suffering from toothache or decay of teeth, but all preserved their teeth in good condition to extreme old age; at the same time, they did not take any special care of them. I can account for the excellent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>This mode of slaughter of cattle--lying flat upon the ground--preserved a great deal more of the blood in the meat than the method in use by Americans. The meat was therefore sweeter and more nutritious than if the blood had been drained as much as possible, as is the custom with us; though the slaughtering in this way seemed somewhat repugnant to a stranger, at first. I have heard Americans express this feeling, and have experienced it myself, but we soon became accustomed to it, and were convinced that the mode of the Californians was superior to ours. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Capt. Richardson said to me that he could account for the fine appearance, the health and longevity of the Californians only from the fact that their chief article of food was beef, and the beef being dressed in the way 1 have described was more nutritious and sustaining than ours. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During a business visit to Los Angeles some years since, I frequently met Don Dolores Sep&uacute;lveda, one of the offspring of a prominent family of that name in that section of California. Se&ntilde;or Sep&uacute;lveda stated to me one day, speaking of the longevity of some of his countrywomen, that there were living in Los Angeles county thirty native California women with ages ranging from eighty to over one hundred years. They were well preserved mentally and physically. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In Monterey, the old capital under the Mexican regime, there are still (1889) living a number of women of Castillian extraction, who are ninety years old and upward. Se&ntilde;ora Do&ntilde;a Guadalupe Briones de Miramontes lived formerly at the Presidio of San Francisco, near "Polin," the name of a spring of water celebrated for certain virtues. She is now (1889) a resident of Spanishtown, in San Mateo county, and a very old lady, being over a century in years. 1 have been informed that she is hale and strong, and is able to insert a thread through the small eye of a needle, preparatory to her habit of daily sewing with her hand. It was this woman who cured me of a malady and saved me from death years since. I was afflicted with the neuralgia in the head from my youth, and I had been on the point of death, but Do&ntilde;a Guadalupe's simple remedy relieved me of suffering probably to the end of my time. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X  <HI REND="italics">The Horse in Early California</HI>
025.sgm:<P>IN 1840 the Mission of San Jos&eacute; ordered a slaughter of about 2000 bulls, simply for the hides, not taking any meat from them. The vaqueros rode into the fields, and lassoed and killed them on the spot, taking off the hides and little tallow and leaving the carcasses there untouched. The rule among the old rancheros here was to preserve one bull for every twenty-five cows, but in the instance above mentioned they had carelessly allowed a large number to grow up without castration. The Missions did not give so much attention to these matters as the regular ranchmen. The vaqueros of the Missions were always Indians, who were more careless in the management of the stock. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The breeding mares were divided up into <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
025.sgm:, or little bodies of twenty-five, with a stallion for each, and so accustomed were they to follow their stallion that each band kept distinct and never mixed with other <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
025.sgm:. The stallions were equally faithful to those under their charge, and never went off to other bands. It was the custom of a stallion, on the approach of a strange horse, or number of horses, to circle round his mares keeping them well together, and driving the visitors away, so jealous were they of intruders. I have never known them to mix in any way, but to keep their companies distinct. The <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
025.sgm: were formed at first by the vaqueros herding the band during the day, and at night securing them in a corral. They continued this day after day until the animals had become so accustomed to the arrangement that there was no danger of their separating. They were then left to go free, and continued together month after month and year after year. A stallion when taken away from his <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
025.sgm: and confined in a corral would squeal and neigh and manifest the greatest uneasiness and anxiety until restored to his company. Except for this training to form them into <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
025.sgm:, these mares were entirely wild and unbroken. They were never used for riding, and only occasionally for work at the harvest season. They were kept for breeding purposes, and it was not considered a proper or becoming thing for a lady or gentle-man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The tails and manes of the mares of the <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
025.sgm: were closely cut.  The hair was utilized for ropes, made by the vaqueros by twisting and braiding together. Those made from the tails were used by the vaqueros for reins and halters in breaking in young colts, and those made from the manes, being of finer quality, were used by the rancheros themselves. The hair being of different colors and skillfully worked together, these hair ropes were very pretty and ornamental, as well as very strong. I once asked an old ranchero, Don Domingo Peralta, why the manes and tails of the stallions attached to the <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
025.sgm: were not cut also. He replied, " <HI REND="italics">Las yeguas los aborrecen</HI>
025.sgm:<P>When the grain was cut at harvesting, the mares were employed in threshing it. I have seen at the rancho of San Leandro four <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The threshing was accomplished in a very primitive way: A circular piece of ground, known as <HI REND="italics">hera</HI>
025.sgm:<P>When the mares became dizzy from circling round in this way, they were turned and driven in the opposite direction. This was continued actively until the grain was well threshed out. The grain was winnowed in an equally primitive manner, the process requiring a day when a good breeze was blowing. The threshed grain was pushed well to one side of the inclosure by the harvesters, and a good space cleaned off. Then, with large wooden shovels, they took it up and threw it as high as possible against the wind, which blew the chaff and straw away, while the heavier grain fell down on the clean ground which had been prepared for it. In this way they got it out quite clean, also nice and whole, not broken, as it is more or less in passing through a threshing machine. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The Missions of San Jos&eacute; and Santa Clara would use two or three hundred mares in a <HI REND="italics">hera</HI>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI  <HI REND="italics">Alvarado's Arrest of Americans</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE government of the department of California imposed no tax upon the people of the country, and was mainly supported by revenue duties imposed on cargoes of foreign vessels sold in the country, which amounted to eighty to one hundred per centum of the invoice prices.  This was considered very exorbitant, and offered a temptation to foreign traders to smuggle, which was largely availed of. Occasionally the government of the department would draw on the home government to assist in its financial matters. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In April, 1840, an event transpired which occasioned considerable excitement on this coast. An order was issued by Governor Alvarado, through the prefect Don Jos&eacute; Ramon Estrada, for the arrest of all the resident Americans in the department, with some exceptions. General Manuel Castro, who is still living at Monterey, recently (1889) informed me that this movement originated with Governor Alvarado and General Jos&eacute; Castro; that they had been informed that the Americans were preparing to rise against the government of the department, take possession of it, assassinate them, and assume control of the department affairs in behalf of the United States; that Alvarado and Castro becoming alarmed for their personal safety, as well as that of the department, in order to prevent this outbreak, issued the order above mentioned. Don Manuel, in giving me this information, said, with a smile, he did not think the Americans had any such design. He thought Alvarado and General Jos&eacute; Castro were unduly alarmed. This is Don Manuel Castro's version of the matter. My own opinion is that Governor Alvarado had been secretly instructed by the home government to be constantly on the alert for any movements or designs of the Americans for getting possession of the country, and becoming alarmed himself, ordered the arrest. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Governor Alvarado issued his orders through the prefect to the different sub-prefects and alcaldes of the department to arrest all Americans within their several districts. This was accomplished, the arrests being <illus entity="a025-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE PORT OF SAN FRANCISCO, JUNE 1, 1849 <HI REND="italics">From the original drawing of Geo. H. Baker, made at date expressly for the "New York Tribune" and published in that paper's issue</HI>
025.sgm: Aug. 28, 1849.  <HI REND="italics">About two hundred vessels were then detained here, their crews leaving for the mines on arrival in port.  Only a portion off these can be shown.  The view is from Rincon Hill, looking N. W., showing San Francisco Bay, mt. Tamalpais, Angel Island and the hills of Marin in the distance.  In the mean distance lies the embryo city flanked by Telegraph and Russian hills.  Population estimated at 2000, all adults, with few women.  Many living in tents.</HI>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:made by the military, under the instructions of the civil officers. About seventy persons were thus arrested, nearly all Americans; a few of other nationalities were also taken, under the mistaken impression that they were Americans. While these arrests were being made General Vallejo, with his staff and about seventy soldiers, came from Sonoma to Yerba Buena and placed the town under martial orders for a few days, when he left with his forces for Monterey. [Yerba Buena contained at that time about twenty-five inhabitants, men, women and children all told.] The captives were sent to Monterey, some by water and some by land, under military guard, as soon as possible after the arrest. They were put into the government house under a military guard, and were kept there until all were collected, being well treated. They were then transported to San Blas in the Mexican bark "J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana," Captain Joseph Snook, an Englishman who had sworn allegiance to the Mexican government. They were accompanied by General Jos&eacute; Castro, who was in charge of them. The owner of the vessel was Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Aguirre, a native of Spain, an old merchant of this coast, living at Santa Barbara.<ANCHOR ID="n11-3">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-3">Graham was a Tennessean.  Prior to his arrest he lived at Natividad in the Salinas Valley.--"Beginnings of San Francisco"--Eldredge. P. 232.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>The news of the arrest was communicated to Washington as speedily as possible by Thomas O. Larkin, afterwards United States consul at Monterey, and orders were sent out through the United States Minister at Mexico, to Commodore Claxton, in command of the Pacific squadron, to look into the matter, and he dispatched the United States sloop of war "St Louis," Captain Forrest, to Monterey. She arrived there shortly after the departure of the "J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana" with the prisoners. In fact the two vessels passed each other shortly before the "St. Louis" arrived, the captain, of course, not being aware that the other vessel contained the prisoners. She remained there a short time and went southward, not visiting the bay of San Francisco at that time. She again visited the upper coast in the summer of 1841, coming direct to the bay of San Francisco, and proceeding thence to Monterey. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This movement was one of the manifestations of the old feeling of jealousy which existed on the part of the Mexican government towards the government of the United States. There had for some time existed a suspicion on the part of the Mexican officials of California against the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>This feeling of distrust or partial hostility on the part of the officials was well understood among the Americans in the department, who, however, I am convinced, had no design whatever against the government, at least no such idea was ever discussed or suggested to my knowledge, although for a long time it had been the common talk among the Americans when among themselves or in company with the rancheros that at some future time the United States would hold possession of California, and that our government would never permit any other nation to be the possessors of this territory. </P>
025.sgm:<P>But the idea of the few Americans then in California upsetting the government of that department existed only in the minds of the officials, strengthened, doubtless, by advices from the home government of Mexico to be constantly on the alert and avert anything of the kind, if threatened. While the officials were thus jealous and inimical, on the other hand, the rancheros, the owners of the large estates and the immense herds of cattle and horses, of whom I have spoken, were exceedingly friendly to the Americans and the United States government. They often expressed to me and to other Americans in the department the hope that at some time the Stars and Stripes would float over California, and she become a part of the United States. In their intercourse with the American traders and others who had visited the coast they could not fail to perceive the American superiority in intelligence, education and business ability. They naturally felt a respect for the government of the country to which such men belonged, and a desire that they might also share in these advantages for themselves and their children; that their children might be better educated, their agricultural methods improved, their lands better cultivated and enhanced in value, their horses and cattle made more valuable by improving the stock, and other desirable things secured, all of which they were sufficiently intelligent to appreciate and desire for themselves, and so, without reserve, they frankly expressed their liking for the Americans and their wish to be united with them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>These Californians frequently expressed to me their dislike of the constant revolutions to which the Mexican people were addicted, and said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The women of California, without exception, were wholly loyal to their own government, and hated the idea of any change; although they respected the Americans, treated them with great cordiality and politeness, and entertained them hospitably at their homes, they would not countenance the suggestion that the United States or any other foreign power should assume control of the country. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII  <HI REND="italics">Nathan Spear and the Author Detained</HI>
025.sgm:<P>NATHAN SPEAR was arrested with the other Americans, and taken to Monterey by a guard of soldiers, but was soon released by the governor, who had been a clerk for Spear in former years at Monterey and had a high esteem for him. The governor, therefore, made an exception in his behalf. At that time I was in the employ of Spear, the principal manager of his commercial house at Yerba Buena. I was also arrested and taken to the headquarters of the sub-prefect, Don Francisco Guerrero, at the Mission Dolores, and was there a prisoner for twenty-four hours. During my incarceration I was very kindly treated by the sub-prefect and his amiable wife, Do&ntilde;a Josefa, daughter of Don Francisco de Haro, who was alcalde at that time. In the evening I was entertained by this lady with a beautiful little dancing party at her house, at which were present six or eight lovely young ladies and about as many young California gentlemen. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We had a delightful time. On that occasion, Do&ntilde;a Josefa, who had been married only a year, and who was a graceful woman, with full, brilliant black eyes, wore her hair unconfined, Sowing at full length, rich and luxuriant, reaching nearly to her feet; as she moved in the figures of the dance she presented a fascinating picture of youth and beauty that I could not but admire. The dancing continued till a late hour, and the affair was so very enjoyable that I hardly realized that 1 was a prisoner of State. The sub-prefect assumed the responsibility of releasing me in the morning, and remarked at the time that he would receive an order to that effect from the seat of government, procured by Spear. This subsequently proved to be correct, and I had no further trouble. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There were a few exceptions to this general arrest of Americans, among them Don Abel Stearns at Los Angeles, he being a very early pioneer to this country, a prominent and wealthy merchant at that time, and always very highly respected by the officials. He had been in the country so long that he was rather considered as belonging to it, though he was a Bostonian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>There were also a few other old residents, who had married into California families, who were excepted; among them William G. Dana, Francis Branch, Daniel Hill, Lewis T. Burton and Isaac Sparks, all of Santa Barbara. None of the agents, supercargoes or captains of vessels on the coast at the time of this arrest were molested; only those who resided here continuously. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When the news of this arrest was communicated to the State Department at Washington by Thomas O. Larkin, later the United States consul at Monterey, instructions were sent to the United States Minister at the City of Mexico, and through his intercession with the Mexican government these prisoners were released in a month or two after their arrival at San Blas, whence they had been transported to Tepic. While they were at the latter place orders came from the Mexican government for the release of the prisoners, and for the imprisonment of General Castro. The Mexican government disclaimed having authorized the arrest of these people, and its prompt action in ordering their release, and causing Castro to be imprisoned, was probably for the purpose of giving greater effect to this disclaimer and making everything appear as favorable as possible to the American government. At the same time I have no doubt the Mexican government was really at the bottom of the whole movement, directly or indirectly, but after the event had transpired, thought best, for prudential reasons, to discountenance it, not desiring to provoke any difficulty with the United States. Further to strengthen the position of the Mexican government in this phase of the matter, it promised the United States Minister that these people should be indemnified for the trouble and inconvenience to which they had been subjected by this movement. </P>
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025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII  <HI REND="italics">Visit of de Mofras to California</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE population of the department of California about 1838-39 was probably from ten to twelve thousand, exclusive of Christianized Indians, who numbered about twenty thousand. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1840, de Mofras, a Frenchman, visited the coast in a French frigate (name forgotten), and landed at Yerba Buena. He was a French official, a kind of traveling ambassador to observe the different countries of the world. I think he came here from the coast of Peru and Chile. There were but few houses here at the time, and the most prominent was the residence and commercial establishment of Nathan Spear on the spot which is now the north-west corner of Clay and Montgomery streets. He was invited by Spear to become his guest. He was there several months, making that his headquarters, traveling about the bay and to different points in the interior. As I was in Spear's employ I saw a good deal of de Mofras, became quite well acquainted with him, and was much pleased with him, as were all those with whom he came in contact. He was an educated gentleman, master of several languages besides his own, among them English, Spanish, and German. He was a close observer of everything, and, like most Frenchmen, excited in his conversation and manner. In my business trips about the bay in the schooner "Isabel," he frequently accompanied me. On one occasion, in coming up to the town in the schooner from Read's ranch, on the opposite side of the bay, the captain of the vessel went a little too near the flat off North Beach, and the schooner grounded. We were compelled to lie there for an hour or two, waiting for the tide to float us off. Monsieur de Mofras soon became impatient and excited, and finally he got so restless and uneasy that he could no longer restrain himself. In spite of my persuasions and remonstrances he leaped overboard, with his clothes on, waded and swam ashore, and proceeded dripping wet to the house. On his arrival there, Spear was astonished to see him in that plight, and at first thought the schooner had been wrecked. I used to joke with him afterwards about his jumping over-board, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>It was understood that de Mofras was on a tour of general observation for the French government. During his visit here he was in correspondence with the officials at home, but it is not known that his visit had any political bearing or significance, and if he had any instructions in this direction from the government he did not disclose them. During his stay on the coast he visited General Sutter in Sacramento valley stopping there a month or two; also General Vallejo at the military headquarters at Sonoma, sojourning there one or two weeks. He also visited Monterey, the seat of the government, where he was courteously and hospitably received by Governor Alvarado and the other officials. Next, he visited Don Alexander Rotcheff at the Russian American Fur Company's headquarters at Fort Ross, and he went also to other prominent points. He was very cordially received and entertained by Rotcheff and his wife, both of whom spoke the French language perfectly, and de Mofras therefore felt quite at home in their company. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Alexander when visiting Yerba Buena spoke of de Mofras and praised him. The visit to Sutter pleased him greatly. He spoke of sutter in the highest terms, and thought his establishment and operations in the Sacramento valley would people and develop that immense country sooner than it could otherwise have been done, as he believed Sutter would induce a large immigration to that point by the numerous letters he had written home to his own country and to the United States. De Mofras was very favorably impressed with California,, and he frequently spoke of its future importance, thinking it would some day be a great country, and he freely expressed his opinion that it would belong to the United States. Considering its natural resources and advantages he thought that under the United States government it would become a rich and important section. His admiration and astonishment at the bay of San Francisco were frequently expressed, and I have seen him many times stand in front of Mr. Spear's store, at the corner of Montgomery and Clay streets, which was then quite near the water, and go into raptures on looking at the bay, stretching out his arms with enthusiasm and exclaiming with delight, Frenchman-like, at the broad and beautiful expanse of water before us, predicting that it would be a great field for commerce; and saying again and again, he had never seen anything like it and the more he traveled over it the more he was impressed with its grandeur and importance. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Spear had a very high Opinion of de Mofras, and I will mention a little incident which occurred one day when de Mofras was stopping at Spear's house. We were at dinner, and the servant in passing a plate to de Mofras accidently touched his glass with it, which gave out a sharp ring, and instantly de Mofras placed one of his fingers On the glass to stop the sound. Spear mentioned it afterward as an illustration of the good breeding of the Frenchman. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A curious tradition was current in regard to the bay of San Francisco, which greatly interested de Mofras, as well as myself and others who heard it. Captain Richardson, who has been mentioned before in this narrative, had in his employ at that time an Indian by the name of Monica. He was about eighty years of age, but still active and vigorous, and was employed by Captain Richardson as boatman on the bay, in launches which were used to run between the shipping and different points to convey goods back and forth. This old Indian told Captain Richardson that the story had been handed down from his remote ancestors, that a long way back there was no Golden Gate; that between Fort Point and right across to the north it was all closed by a mountain range, and there was no access to the ocean there, but the natural outlet of the bay was through the Santa Clara valley, across the Salinas plains, to the bay of Monterey; that in a tremendous convulsion of nature the mountain barrier between the bay and the ocean was thrown down and a passage made where the Golden Gate now is. That became the entrance to the bay. In the course of time the Santa Clara valley and the other land between the lower end of the bay of San Francisco and the bay of Monterey became drained and elevated. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In this connection, I may mention that I have seen sea-shells which were brought up from a depth of 108 feet in boring an artesian well at San Leandro, and I learn that shells were found in Alameda at a depth of about 100 feet. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Richardson frequently alluded to this tradition in the presence of Nathan Spear, Monsieur de Mofras and myself. De Mofras being a scientific man, he became so impressed with this statement that he rode out to Fort Point two or three times to examine personally the features of that part of the bay, and from his observations there and of the country between here and the bay of Monterey he expressed his opinion that the theory or tradition was probably correct. In frequent conversations at the dinner table he became quite enthusiastic in dilating upon the geological appearance and indications of the country, especially in reference to this story related by the old Indian Monica in regard to the Golden Gate. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Near the Presidio, about three-quarters of a mile southeast from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The winter of 1839-40 was a severe one in California, an immense quantity of rain falling. It poured down for forty days and nights, with but little cessation. Old Domingo Peralta, who had come across the bay to Yerba Buena with his family, in a boat, to obtain supplies, was caught here and obliged to remain several weeks, stopping at Spear's house with his large family of ten or twelve persons until he could re-cross the bay to get home. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After Captain Sutter had established himself in the Sacramento valley, he sent a boat to Yerba Buena about once in two weeks for the purpose of obtaining supplies for his station, Spear being his agent. During the prolonged storms of this year the whole country was flooded, and communication was consequently interrupted, and we didn't hear from Captain Sutter for more than a month. At last a boat made its appearance, bringing a letter from him, in which he described the country as one vast expanse of water. Among the stories he mentioned was one of seeing the deer, elk and other animals crowded together in large numbers on every little prominence which appeared above the waters, to protect themselves from being carried away by the flood. The boat, in endeavoring to return, was unable to stem the current, which was so strong and rapid as to keep her on the passage several weeks before she reached Sutter's place again. The boat's captain was a Swiss, and the boatmen Indians, formerly of the Missions, who had returned to their wild Indian life. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Some years before my first arrival here in 1831, there was an exceedingly dry season. The priest at the head of the Mission of Santa Clara <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV  <HI REND="italics">Priests and Mission Life</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE priests of California belonged to the Order of Franciscans. Their ordinary dress was a loose woolen garment, made whole and put on over the head, reaching nearly to the ground, of a plain drab or brownish hue, which was the color of the Order. The dress was made with wide sleeves, a hood falling back on the shoulders, which could be drawn over the head when it was desired by the wearer, if the weather was cold or unpleasant; and at the waist was a girdle and tassels of the same material tied around the dress or habit, the tassels hanging down in front. Sometimes they were left untied. One requirement of the Order was that every priest should have shaven on the crown of the head a circular spot about three or four inches in diameter. This I noticed among all of them. As the hair commenced growing it was again shaved, and this spot was always kept bare. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The priests at the various Missions were usually men of very pure character, particularly the Spanish priests. The first priests who established the Missions were directly from Spain. They were superior men in point of talent, education, morals and executive ability, as the success of the Missions under their establishment and administration showed. They seemed to be entirely disinterested, their aim and ambition being to develop the country, and civilize and Christianize the Indians, for which purpose the Missions were established. They worked zealously and untiringly in this behalf, and to them must be given the credit for what advancement in civilization, intelligence, industry, good habits and good morals pertained to the country at that day, when they laid the foundation of the present advanced civilization and development of the country. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After the independence of Mexico, and its separation from Spain, the Missions of California passed under the control of Mexican priests, who were also men of culture and attainments, generally of excellent character, but as a class they were inferior to their predecessors. They were always hospitable to strangers, all visitors were kindly received and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In trading through the country and traveling from point to point it was customary for travelers to stop at the Missions as frequently and as long as they desired. This was expected as a matter of course by the priests, and had the traveler neglected to avail himself of the privilege it would have been regarded as an offense by the good Fathers. On approaching the Mission the traveler would be met at the door or at the wide veranda by the Padre, who would greet him warmly, embrace him and invite him in, and he was furnished with the best the Mission afforded at the table, given one of the best rooms to sleep in, attended by servants, and everything possible was done to make him at home and comfortable during his stay. On leaving he was furnished with a fresh horse, and a good vaquero was appointed to attend him to the next Mission, where he was received and entertained with the same hospitality, and 50 on as far as the journey extended. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The last of the Mexican priests was Father Gonzalez, who presided in '38 at the Mission of San Jos&eacute; and who died some years ago at the Mission of Santa Barbara at a very advanced age. He was a noble man, a true Christian, very much respected and beloved by all his people, and by all who knew him. Whenever I went there he always welcomed me in the most cordial manner, and the moment 1 saw him I felt drawn toward him as by a lodestone. He would take me in and say, " <HI REND="italics">Sienta usted hijito</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The supercargoes of the vessels that were trading on the coast, of course had occasion to visit all the settlements in the interior or along the coast to conduct their business with the people, and to travel back and forth up and down the country. In visiting down the coast they usually went on the vessels, which had a fair wind most of the time going south; but on coming up there was commonly a head wind, which made the voyage tedious, and the supercargoes then took to land and came up on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The traveler had no further care or thought in regard to the horse he had been using, but left him where he happened to be, and the Padre or ranchero would undertake to send him back, or if this was not convenient it was no matter, as the owner would never ask any questions concerning his safety or return. It would have been considered impoliteness for the guest to express any concern about the horse or what was to become of him. Sometimes the traveler was furnished by the rancheros with part of a <HI REND="italics">caponera</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In later years, say after 1844, some of the smaller rancheros gave more' attention to horses than cattle, making it a specialty to have always on hand several fine <HI REND="italics">caponeras</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Some of the supercargoes of the vessels owned their horses, to the number of twelve to fifteen, and employed a vaquero continuously. When the supercargoes were at sea the vaqueros looked after these horses, and took them from point to point to meet the vessel when she would come into a certain port. When the supercargo landed he would find his horses there, and journey with them from place to place as his business required. The vaquero, while waiting for the vessel, would stay with some family, probably one of his relatives, of whom he most likely had many in various parts of California, and the horses would feed in the vicinity. Many supercargoes preferred this method, as they could always thus have the horses and vaqueros to which they were accustomed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>As the supercargo came to a Mission or rancho near a port, he would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The wagons were drawn by oxen, with a nearly straight yoke fitting the top of the neck just back of the horns, and fastened with a piece of soft hide, and attached thereto and to the wagon. Families sometimes took long journeys in these wagons fitted up with more style, the sides being lined with calico or sheeting, or even light silk, with mattresses on the floor of the wagon. With cooking and eating arrangements they went along comfortably, camping by a spring, and sleeping in the wagon, traveling days at a time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The people lived in adobe houses, and the houses had tile roofs; they were comfortable and roomy, warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Their furniture was generally plain, mostly imported from Boston in the ships that came to the coast to trade. Generally the houses had floors, but without carpets in the earlier days. Some of the humble people had no floors to their houses, but the ground became perfectly hard and firm as if cemented. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The women were exceedingly clean and neat in their houses and persons and in all their domestic arrangements. One of their peculiarities was the excellence and neatness of their beds and bedding, which were often elegant in appearance, highly and tastefully ornamented, the cover-lids and pillow cases being sometimes of satin and trimmed with beautiful and costly lace. The women were plainly and becomingly attired, but were not such devotees of fashion as at the present day, and did not indulge in jewelry to excess. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Their tables were frugally furnished, the food clean and inviting, consisting mainly of good beef broiled on an iron rod, or steaks with onions, also mutton, chicken, eggs, each family keeping a good stock of fowls. The bread was <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
025.sgm:; sometimes it was made with yeast. Beans <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:were a staple dish with them, admirably cooked, corn, also potatoes; and red peppers were their favorite seasoning. A delicious dish was made of chicken and green corn; partly cooked and put together, then wrapped in the green leaves of the corn,' tied with the same and boiled called <HI REND="italics">tamales</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The people were sober, sometimes using California wine, but not to excess. They were not given to strong drink, and it was a rare occurrence to see an intoxicated Californian. The men were good husbands generally, the women good wives, both faithful to their domestic relations. The California women, married or unmarried, of all classes, were the most virtuous I have ever seen. There were exceptions, but they were exceedingly rare. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The single men were not so much so, associating to some extent with Indian women, although the married men were generally excellent husbands and kind fathers. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During my long and intimate acquaintance with Californians, I have found the women as a class much brighter, quicker in their perceptions, and generally smarter than the men. Their husbands oftentimes looked to them for advice and direction in their general business affairs. The people had but limited opportunities for education. As a rule they were not much educated; but they had abundant instinct and native talent, and the women were full of natural dignity and self-possession; they talked well and intelligently, and appeared to much better advantage than might have been supposed from their meagre educational facilities. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The families of the wealthier classes had more or less education; their contact with the foreign population was an advantage to them in this respect. There were no established schools outside the Missions, and what little education the young people obtained, they picked up in the family, learning to read and write among themselves. They seemed to have a talent and taste for music. Many of the women played the guitar skillfully, and the young men the violin. In almost every family there were one or more musicians, and everywhere music was a familiar sound. Of course, they had no scientific and technical musical instruction. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The houses of the rancheros were usually built upon entirely open ground, devoid of trees, generally elevated, overlooking a wide stretch of the country round, in order that they might look out to a distance on all sides, and see what was going on, and notice if any intruders were about the rancho for the purpose of stealing cattle or horses, in which way they were occasionally annoyed by the Indians, or perhaps by some vicious countrymen; and the house was placed where there was a spring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>I have often inquired of the rancheros, on seeing a beautiful and shaded spot, why they did not select it for their residence, and they would always answer it was too near the forest--they having in view always security against the Indians. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV  <HI REND="italics">Indian Insurrections and Treachery</HI>
025.sgm:<P>OCCASIONALLY the Indians who had been at the Missions, and had become well informed in regard to the surrounding neighborhood and the different ranches in the vicinity, would desert the Missions, retreat to their old haunts and join the uncivilized Indians. At times they would come back with some of the wild Indians to the farms, for the purpose of raiding upon them, and capturing the domesticated horses. They would come quietly in the night, and carry off one or two <HI REND="italics">caponeras</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In the morning a ranchero would discover that he was without horses for the use of the ranch. He would then borrow some horses from his neighbor, and ten or twelve men would collect together and go in pursuit of the raiders. They were nearly always successful in overtaking the thieves and recovering their horses, though oftentimes not without a fierce fight with the Indians, who were armed with bows and arrows, and the Californians with horse carbines. At these combats the Indians frequently lost some of their number, and often as many as eight or ten were killed. The Californians were sometimes wounded and occasionally killed. Once in a while, but very seldom, the Indians were successful in eluding pursuit, and got safely away with the horses, beyond recovery. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the early part of '39, nearly all the saddle horses belonging to Captain Ygnacio Martinez, at the rancho Pinole, were thus carried off by the Indians, and his son Don Jos&eacute; Martinez, (whose niece I afterward married), with eight or ten of his neighbors, went in pursuit of them, and though they succeeded in recovering the animals, they lost one of their number, Felipe Briones, who was killed by an arrow. The fight on that occasion was exceedingly severe, and the Indians became so incensed, and their numbers increased so much, that the little party deemed it too hazardous to continue the fight, and retreated, taking with them the recovered horses, but were compelled to leave the body of Briones on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Prado Mesa was the comandante of the San Francisco Presidio, and frequently left his post to go in campaigns against the Indians with part of his command. He was always considered a successful Indian fighter. He was a brave and good man. On one occasion he was wounded with an arrow, which ultimately carried him to his grave. He was blessed with a large family. I became very well acquainted with him, and he frequently furnished me with fine saddle horses and a vaquero to make my business circuit around the bay. He was under the immediate command of General Vallejo, with whom he was intimate, and sometimes he confided to me secret movements of the government.  The Californians were early risers. The ranchero would frequently receive a cup of coffee or chocolate in bed, from the hands of a servant, and on getting up immediately order one of the vaqueros to bring him a certain horse which he indicated, every horse in a <HI REND="italics">caponera</HI>
025.sgm:<P>This breakfast was a solid meal, consisting of <HI REND="italics">carne asada</HI>
025.sgm: (meat broiled on a spit), beefsteak with rich gravy or with onions, eggs, beans, <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Although there was so little variety in their food from one day to another, everything was cooked so well and so neatly and made so inviting, the matron of the house giving her personal attention to everything, that the meals were always relished. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When the rancheros thus rode about, during the leisure season, which was between the marking time and the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm: or killing time, and from the end of the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm: to the spring time again, the more wealthy of them were generally dressed in a good deal of style, with short breeches extending to the knee, ornamented with gold or silver lace at the bottom, with <HI REND="italics">botas</HI>
025.sgm: (leggings) below, made of fine soft deer skin, well tanned and finished, richly colored, and stamped with beautiful devices (these articles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:having been imported from Mexico, where they were manufactured), and tied at the knee with a silk cord, two or three times wound around the leg, with heavy gold or silver tassels hanging below the knee. They wore long vests, with filagree buttons of gold or silver, while those of more ordinary means had them of brass. They wore no long coats, but a kind of jacket of good length, most generally of dark blue cloth, also adorned with filagree buttons. Over that was the long <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
025.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
025.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
025.sgm: were made in the same way as to size and cut of the garments, but the former was of a coarser texture than the latter, and of a variety of colors and patterns, while the <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
025.sgm: was of dark blue or black cloth, of finer quality, generally broadcloth. The <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
025.sgm: was always plain, while the <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
025.sgm:<P>They wore hats imported from Mexico and Peru, generally stiff; the finer quality of softer material-- <HI REND="italics">vicu&ntilde;a</HI>
025.sgm:, a kind of beaver skin obtained in those countries. Their saddles were silver-mounted, embroidered with silver or gold, the bridle heavily mounted with silver, and the reins made of the most select hair of the horse's mane, and at a distance of every foot or so there was a link of silver connecting the different parts together. The tree of the saddle was similar to that now in use by the Spaniards, and covered with the <HI REND="italics">mochila</HI>
025.sgm:, which was of leather. It extended beyond the saddle to the shoulder of the horse in front and back to the flank, and downwards on either side, half way between the rider's knee and foot. This was plainly made, sometimes stamped with ornamental figures on the side and sometimes without stamping. Over this was the <HI REND="italics">coraza</HI>
025.sgm:, a leather covering of finer texture, a little larger and extending beyond the <HI REND="italics">mochila</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Behind the saddle, and attached thereto, was the <HI REND="italics">anqueta</HI>
025.sgm:, of leather, of half-moon shape, covering the top of the hindquarters of the horse, but not reaching to the tail; which was also elaborately stamped with figures and lined with sheep skin, the wool side next to the horse. This was an ornament, and also a convenience in case the rider chose to take a person behind him on the horse. Frequently some gallant young man would take a lady on the horse with him, putting her in the saddle in front and himself riding on the <HI REND="italics">anqueta</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The stirrups were cut out of a solid block of wood, about two and a half inches in thickness. They were very large and heavy. The strap was passed through a little hole near the top. The <HI REND="italics">tapadera</HI>
025.sgm: was made of two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:circular pieces of very stout leather, about twelve to fifteen inches in diameter, the outer one a little smaller than the inner one, fastened together with strips of deer skin called <HI REND="italics">gamuza</HI>
025.sgm:, the saddle strap passing through two holes near the top to attach it to the stirrup; so that when the foot was placed in the stirrup the <HI REND="italics">tapadera</HI>
025.sgm:<P>This was the saddle for everyday use of the rancheros and vaqueros, that of the former being somewhat nicer and better finished. The reins for everyday use were made of deer or calfskin or other soft leather, cut in thin strips and nicely braided and twisted together, and at the end of the reins was attached an extra piece of the same with a ring, which was used as a whip. Their spurs were inlaid with gold and silver, and the straps of the spurs worked with silver and gold thread.  When thus mounted and fully equipped, these men presented a magnificent appearance, especially on the feast days of the Saints, which were celebrated at the Missions. Then they were arrayed in their finest and most costly habiliments, and their horses in their gayest and most expensive trappings. They were usually large, well developed men, and presented an imposing aspect. The outfit of a ranchero and his horse, thus equipped, I have known to cost several thousand dollars. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The gentleman who carried a lady in this way, before him on a horse, was considered as occupying a post of honor, and it was customary when a bride was to be married in church, which was usual in those days, for a relative to take her before him in this fashion on his horse to the church where the ceremony was to be performed. This service, which involved the greatest responsibility and trust on the part of the gentleman, was discharged by him in the most gallant and polite manner possible. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the occasion of my marriage, in 1847, the bride was taken in this way to the church by her uncle, Don Jos&eacute; Martinez. On these occasions the horse was adorned in the most sumptuous manner, the <HI REND="italics">anqueta</HI>
025.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">coraza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The ladies were domestic and exceedingly industrious, although the wealthier class had plenty of Indian servants. They were skillful with their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Both men and women preserved their hair in all its fullness and color, and it was rare to see a gray-headed person. A man fifty years of age, even, had not a single gray hair in his head or beard, and I don't remember ever seeing, either among the vaqueros or the rancheros, or among the women, a single bald headed person. I frequently asked them what was the cause of this remarkably good preservation of their hair, and they would shrug their shoulders, and say they supposed it was on account of their quiet way of living and freedom from worry and anxiety. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The native Californians were about the happiest and most contented people I ever saw, as also were the early foreigners who settled among them and intermarried with them, adopted their habits and customs, and became, as it were, a part of themselves.  Among the Californians there was more or less caste, and the wealthier families were somewhat aristocratic and did not associate freely with the humbler classes; in towns the wealthy families were decidedly proud and select, the wives and daughters especially. These people were naturally, whether rich or poor, of a proud nature, and though always exceedingly polite, courteous and friendly, they were possessed of a native dignity, an inborn aristocracy, which was apparent in their bearing, walk, and general demeanor. They were descended from the best families of Spain, and never seemed to forget their origin, even if their outward surroundings did not correspond to their inward feeling. Of course among the weathier classes this pride was more manifest than among the poorer. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In my long intercourse with these people, extending over many years, I never knew an instance of incivility of any kind. They were always ready to reply to a question, and answered in the politest manner, even the humblest of them; and in passing along the road, the poorest vaquero would salute you politely. If you wanted any little favor of him, like delivering a message to another rancho, or anything of that sort, he was ready to oblige, and did it with an air of courtesy and grace and freedom of manner that were very pleasing. They showed everywhere and always this spirit of accommodation, both men and women. The latter, though reserved and dignified, always answered politely and sweetly, and generally bestowed upon you a smile, which, coming from a handsome face, was charming in the extreme. This kindness of manner was no affectation, but genuine goodness, and commanded one's admiration and respect. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>I was astonished at the endurance of the California women in holding out, night after night, in dancing, of which they never seemed to weary, but kept on with an appearance of freshness and elasticity that was as charming as surprising. Their actions, movements and bearing were as full of life and animation after several nights of dancing as at the beginning, while the men, on the other hand, became wearied, showing that their powers of endurance were not equal to those of the ladies. I have frequently heard the latter ridiculing the gentlemen for not holding out unfatigued to the end of a festival of this kind. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The rancheros and their household generally retired early, about eight o'clock, unless a <HI REND="italics">valecito casaro</HI>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Fandango</HI>
025.sgm: was a term for a dance or entertainment among the lower classes, where neighbors and others were invited in, and engaged themselves without any great degree of formality. The entertainments of the wealthy and aristocratic class were more exclusive in character; invitations were more carefully given, more formality observed, and of course, more elegance and refinement prevailed. An entertainment of this character was known as a <HI REND="italics">baile</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In November, 1838, I was a guest at the wedding party given at the marriage of Don Jos&eacute; Martinez to the daughter of Don Ygnacio Peralta, which lasted about a week, dancing being kept up all the night with a company of at least one hundred men and women from the adjoining ranchos, about three hours after daylight being given to sleep, after which picnics in the woods were held during the forenoon, and the afternoon was devoted to bull fighting. This programme was continued for a week, when l myself had become so exhausted for want of regular sleep that I was glad to escape. The bride and bridegroom were not given any seclusion until the third night. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On this occasion Do&ntilde;a Rafaela Martinez, wife of Dr. Tennent, and sister of the bridegroom, a young woman full of life and vivacity, very attractive and graceful in manner, seized upon me and led me on to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>During this festivity, Don Jos&eacute; Martinez, who was a wonderful horseman, performed some feats which astonished me. For instance, while riding at the greatest speed, he leaned over his saddle to one side, as he swept along, and picked up from the ground a small coin, which had been put there to try his skill, and then went on without slackening his speed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Some years after that I was visiting him, and while we were out taking a ride over his rancho, we came to an exceedingly steep hill, almost perpendicular; at the top was a bull quietly feeding. He looked up and said, "Do you see that bull?" "Yes," said I. "Now," said he, "we will have some fun. I am going up there to drive him down and lasso him on the way." It seemed impossible owing to the steepness of the declivity. Nevertheless, he did it, rode up to the top, started the bull down at full speed, and actually lassoed the animal on the way, threw him down, and the bull at once commenced rolling down the steep side of the hill, over and over, until he reached the bottom, Jos&eacute; following on his horse and slackening up the riata as he went along. He was a graceful rider. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After many years of happiness with his excellent wife, during which they were blessed with six or eight children, Don Jos&eacute; Martinez became a widower. A few years after this he married an English lady, a sister of Dr. Samuel J. Tennent, who was then living at Pinole ranch, and who married a sister of Don Jos&eacute; Martinez. Dr. Tennent lived on a portion of the ranch inherited by his wife. The marriage of Don Jos&eacute; to a lady outside of his own countrywomen was rather an unusual occurrence among the Californians. The marriage proved a happy one, and half a dozen children resulted therefrom. This lady is now living in San Francisco (1889). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Jos&eacute; Martinez had the largest kind of a heart, and if anyone called at his house who was in need of a horse, he was never refused, and the people of the surrounding country were constantly in receipt of favors at his hands. If one wanted a bullock, and had not the means to pay for it, he would send out a vaquero to lasso one and bring it in and tie it to a <HI REND="italics">cabestro</HI>
025.sgm: (a steer broken for that purpose), so that the man could take it home, and told him he might pay for it when convenient, or if not convenient, it was no matter. So with a horse which he might furnish, it didn't matter whether the animal was returned or not. This generosity was continual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A CALIFORNIA WEDDING PARTY IN 1845  <HI REND="italics">This is another of the quaint illustrations William Heath Davis had made for "Seventy-five Years in California," the publication of which was prevented by the loss of his manuscript in the San Francisco catastrophe of april</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI  <HI REND="italics">Author's Courtship and Marriage</HI>
025.sgm:<P>SOON after I reached maturity, thoughts of domestic and settle-down life overtook me. I concluded I could manage my growing business more advantageously by being introduced in the Court of Hymen to a daughter of the soil of California of Spanish extraction. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1842 the historic bark Don Quixote was at anchor at Santa Barbara; also another historic bark, the J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana, a Mexican vessel. Both were traders on the coast and were bound for the windward or northern ports. I was then the supercargo of the Don Quixote and was accustomed to visit all places of business in the towns, also the residences of the haciendados for orders for goods. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I remember one sunny afternoon being in the store of Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Aguirre to sell him an invoice of goods to replenish his stock. A young lady whose face impressed me appeared there and made a small purchase. She and her father, Don Joaquin Estudillo were guests of Mrs. Aguirre, a niece of the latter and first cousin of the former. Father and daughter were waiting for the departure of the J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana to take passage on her for their home at San Leandro on the east side of the Bay of San Francisco. It was on this trip the Se&ntilde;orita was made prisoner of war by Commodore Jones, when the Mexican bark was captured which I have mentioned elsewhere. My relations with the rancheros as a merchant made me acquainted with Se&ntilde;or Estudillo and his family. He had known my father when he (Estudillo) was a Custom House officer sailing up and down the coast as a guard on various vessels at different times. My interest in the family increased as I called at the mansion during my journeys around the Bay for my pro rata of the trade, and it was appreciated by the good people. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About the latter part of 1843, I found myself seriously in love with the young se&ntilde;orita I had previously seen at Santa Barbara. The program was soon made up in my mind, how I should proceed in this delicate dilemma. I approached the mother of the fair one, and bluntly told her that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>On an occasion like this, very often a favorite aunt of the lady sought in marriage would be appealed to for intercession in behalf of the suitor, and this stratagem was resorted to in my case. But I had strong opposition in the family in the person of an elder sister. Whenever I called at the house she expressed friendship, but it was assumed and fictitious. It was very apparent that she was envious of her younger sister marrying before herself. La Se&ntilde;orita Maria had numerous admirers who were also soliciting her hand, some of wealthy and influential families, and naturally she was proud of the adulations bestowed upon her and hesitated to make her choice. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I was located at Yerba Buena as agent for Paty, McKinley &amp; Co. In the summer of 1845 I wrote a letter to Don Joaquin Estudillo, begging him to communicate my wish to his daughter, and adding, that if my proffer were agreeable, if he would write, I would come to San Leandro to visit the family. In the course of time a reply came in the negative, which was due to the work and influence of the elder sister with the parents and without the knowledge of Se&ntilde;orita Maria, as it subsequently proved. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Don Quixote arrived in August of the same year. In the rush and multiplicity of business, the closing of the Yerba Buena house, preparatory to our departure for the leeward coast and Honolulu, my matrimonial affair disappeared from my mind, only to return after we had left the Bay. In March 1846, I arrived at Monterey in my own vessel with a cargo of goods for the California market. There I met Henry Mellus, who was awaiting one of his vessels from Southern California. One starlight evening after dinner at the hospitable mansion of Thomas O. Larkin, our American Consul on the coast, Mr. Mellus suggested that we stroll toward the beach and listen to the surf. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During our quiet walk he remarked to me: "Don Guillermo, I have something to impart to you that concerns you deeply, regarding one of the daughters of Don Joaquin Estudillo of San Leandro. I have heard the true story about your love affair, and my authority is undoubted, and when it was related to me it seemed incredible, but it was true, nevertheless. La Se&ntilde;orita Maria never knew you had written her father, and she was in ignorance of the letter he sent you declining your proffer of marriage. I really pity the poor girl," he said, "for what she has suffered during your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>My vessel arrived at Yerba Buena in April, and my business kept me so incessantly employed during our short stay that I was unable to visit the eastern shore of the bay to call on Don Joaquin and his family. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The brig sailed to Sausalito to water before proceeding to the southern ports for trade. It was now the 20th. of May, after the usual showers of that month, and the hills and mountains towering above us as we lay at our anchorage were in the height of their loveliness and splendor, and the scenery was enchanting in the extreme. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I learned to my delight that Miss Maria Estudillo was at the home of her favorite aunt, Mrs. Richardson, ostensibly on a visit to her but in reality to meet the one she esteemed. I called on the ladies and was cordially received with an embrace by Se&ntilde;ora Richardson, and a warm greeting from the se&ntilde;oritas. I observed that the young lady from San Leandro was impressed with my presence which demonstrated clearly in my mind a rooted affection for the one seated by her side, and it was mutual. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The custom of embracing by the se&ntilde;oras or heads of families had existed since the foundation of the Department. It was only practiced or extended to friends and acquaintances of long standing, by married ladies who had become mothers, as a mark of extreme courtesy. I have never known of an instance of a young woman or daughters of matrons extending this to others than near relatives, because it would be considered highly improper by the parents and others. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This mode of salutation was an act demonstrating clearly to the visitor that the reception was genuine and the impulse of a noble nature. It was performed in the most modest and delicate manner: the lady would simply extend her arms around the gentleman, and in return, he would do the same; she looking to the right smilingly, he to the left. Our free and easy American style of kissing was not practiced. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I invited Captain Richardson, Se&ntilde;ora Richardson, Miss Richardson and Miss Estudillo to dine on board my vessel as my guests. In addition to these, Nathan Spear, ex-Alcalde Wm. S. Hinckley, Captain Russom, R. M. Sherman, the clerk, and Mr. Lee, the first mate, were members of the party. The menu comprised chicken soup; chicken salad, boiled turkey and ham; roast muscovy ducks; sweet potatoes; other vegetables and fruits; custards, cakes and confections. Having arrived from Honolulu so recently, we were well supplied with poultry and other products of the Islands. California wine was not in general use at that time as a beverage, but we had claret, white wine, champagne, and sherry. The dinner passed off pleasantly. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>The day when we were heaving anchor Captain Russom handed me a spy glass and directed my attention to two young ladies who were seated on a natural carpet of flowers covering the brow of a commanding hill which overlooked the vessel then unfolding her canvas to the breeze. One of these ladies was picking the wild flowers within her reach, while the other held her handkerchief to her face. Captain Russom was thoughtful, and showed his gallantry to the fair ones by dipping the flag, flying at the mizzen gaff, several times. And, of course, the author waved his handkerchief. In this act of farewell he was joined by Sherman, and we both waved until we were hidden from view as the brig approached the Golden Gate. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Later our engagement was made formal in the presence of the family, and I received an embrace from each of its members, including the elder sister. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There was a law of the Roman Catholic Church that no Protestant could marry a Catholic woman without the former becoming a convert. So, if a young man wished to obtain the hand of a California lady in marriage he was compelled to turn Catholic. I remember well when the two brothers Henry and Francis Mellus, who married sisters, were converted to the Roman faith before their marriages. They, however, proved to be sincere in their change from Protestantism, and were known to be devout. The author became a Roman Catholic several years before his wedding.  The rule of the church was rigid regarding marriage in those days, but now, by dispensation from the Pope, it is permitted for Catholics and non-Catholics to marry in countries of mixed population. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During my wooing of over two years, I do not remember having spoken a hundred words to the young lady when we were alone, but I was permitted to converse with her in the presence of her parents, especially her mother. This was an unwritten law or custom of Spanish families from time immemorial. Their sense of propriety demanded that during courtship the young people should talk and see each other only in the presence of relatives of the prospective wife. When this rule was invaded the young lady would expect or was prepared for a reprimand from her mother or father, who demanded that there should be no repetition of the indiscretion, hence it was a rare occurrence. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About a week before the wedding, Don Joaquin sent about twenty milch cows from his rancho around the bay to San Francisco to be used in the preparation of the marriage feast, for milk was scarce in town. He alson sent a caponera of his fine horses for use during the festival. The animals were allowed to roam the hills and valleys of San Francisco which was then a mere cow pasture with a population of less than one thousand inhabitants, including both Mission Dolores and the Presidio. This livestock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The first Alcalde under American occupation, Lieutenant Washington A. Bartlett, changed the dating of official documents from Yerba Buena to San Francisco in 1847. General Kearny, the Military Governor, approved of this for it was but a restatement of the name which existed under Mexican rule as a district comprising Yerba Buena, Mission Dolores and the Presidio, and had never been changed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Miss Maria Estudillo and I were married at the Mission of San Francisco de Asis, sometimes called Mission Dolores, in November 1847. The bride was carried by her uncle, Don Jos&eacute; Martinez, to the church on a spirited jet black horse from Pinole, taken from his own caponera of blacks. It was in keeping with the ancient custom on such occasions for a relative thus to convey the bride, if she was not mounted by herself; as carriages and buggies were not in use at so early a period. The animal was superbly caparisoned with gold and silver mounted saddle and bridle, and Don Jos&eacute; was dressed in the costly festal habiliments of olden times. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the ball in the evening Don Jos&eacute; was a prominent actor. He danced the Jarabe, an ancient dance of the country, which is performed by a gentleman and lady facing each other. At a certain stage of the amusement both would stop, when one would deliver several verses in rhyme, at the end of which the dancing was resumed, the lady approaching in a circle, round and round her partner and back to her place, bowing gracefully to her companion, her dainty feet in full view. This was repeated by the Don in a similar manner; and both would then dance with the rapidity of lightning in a circle of small diameter, going round and round artistically and with grace, accompanying their movements with appropriate gesticulations. Sometimes two ladies and gentlemen would dance the Jarabe and then it was even more amusing and attractive. This elicited applause from the audience. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The order of dances embraced quadrilles, waltzes, contra-dances and la Jota. The festivities were kept up continuously as the company was eager to commemorate the occasion with a genuine marriage festival such as was enjoyed by their forefathers. At intervals during the night a cold luncheon of poultry, ham, cakes, coffee, champagne and other wines was served. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII  <HI REND="italics">Sportsman's Paradise</HI>
025.sgm:<P>IN mid-winter all animals on haciendas become thin and poor in flesh.  This was the dull season of the year among the merchants and but little business was transacted. But the fleet of small vessels owned in Yerba Buena was kept busy going to the different estuaries of the bay to collect hides that had accumulated during the winter months from cattle slaughtered for use of the haciendas. </P>
025.sgm:<P>One morning in March 1840 at the breakfast table, Nathan Spear remarked that this being the quiet part of the year around the bay that the crews of the "Isabel" and "Nicholas" were not at work sufficiently long at a time to keep them from getting rusty. "I think," he decided, "that it would be well to send the "Isabel" over to Yerba Buena Island with a crew Of four men to cut and load her with wood for cooking purposes." </P>
025.sgm:<P>The eastern part of the island at that time was almost covered with scrub oak trees, the wood of which was very hard and made a Strong fire. I replied that I would accompany the wood cutters and consider it my vacation, and would take my gun and fishing tackle along so I could supply the camp with fish and game. "I will go to the Mission Dolores after our breakfast to obtain permission from the sub-Prefect or Alcalde to cut wood on Yerba Buena Island," I said, and Spear agreed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spear had a good stable of rough redwood boards on the premises next to the store which contained several very fine horses, and I saddled the old man's favorite buckskin. He was long in body and well put together, with a head and ears as if carved by a sculptor, with a neck which looked as if his dam had been sired by a deer. I was young, but eighteen years old, full of fun and frolic, a good fast rider, and away we went through the sandhills to Mission Dolores. The spirited and speedy horse seemed inspired with my errand to interView the dignitaries of the District of San Francisco. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Preparations for visiting the island were soon made, and as an absence of eight or ten days was contemplated, a goodly supply of eatables had to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>We camped on a piece of level ground or mesa just above the beach and west of the cove. We had two tents, the men occupying one, the author the other. The little schooner was moored east of the camp but in full view. I arranged my time methodically: to read a little, to fish a little and to shoot a little at the wild game that flew over our white tents in great numbers. My first morning as a resident of the solitary isle was devoted to fishing, selecting a spot north-west of the camp near a spring of soft water which bubbled over the rocks. My success as an angler was beyond expectation and a surprise to me. In less than no time I had a pail full of several varieties of fish which made the sport quite exhilarating. For dinner we had fish fresh from the water cooked with California bacon cured by that historic personage Nathan Spear. One of the men who proved to be a good cocinero prepared our first midday meal on Yerba Buena Island, and all relished it greatly. I soon became ambitious as an angler and rose at the peep of day, but I had my doubt if the fish would take the bait at such an early hour, but to my joy they did so with eagerness. I soon returned with a fine mess of live and fluttering fish for breakfast. This time I had fished from what is now known as "Torpedo Point." Probably I was the first fisherman who ever threw a line and hook into the clear waters of San Francisco Bay from Yerba Buena, or, as it is popularly known, Goat Island. I caught so many fish from day to day that the men dried them, and in all probability this curing gave San Francisco its first shipment of dried fish. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I also devoted much time to shooting ducks. They were plentiful and fat, and of many varieties: mallard, canvasback, widgeon and teal. My favorite spot for shooting was the top of the hill overlooking the village of Yerba Buena. The ducks would appear in flocks, darkening the air, and so great was their number that it required no skill to kill them on the wing. As they fell to the ground they often burst open, being so fat and heavy. After I had discharged the two barrels I would be surrounded with dead and wounded birds, and the flock would wheel about to share the fate of the first victims. I hastened to re-load so as to take them on the wing again, and the stupid birds would fall to the ground as thick as hailstones. I am sure I was the first hunter on the Island. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I killed so many of this savory game that we preserved them like the fish to swell the first export from the Island. I became so interested and excited over my success as angler and hunter that the reading matter in my tent went undisturbed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On my return to town I presented Nathan Spear with several dozens <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII  <HI REND="italics">Californian Amusements</HI>
025.sgm:<P>BESIDES indulgence in music and dancing, the men found their recreation, as they did their occupation, chiefly on horseback. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Horse racing was one of their favorite amusements, which they occasionally enjoyed; especially on the Saints' feast days, which were general holidays. The vaqueros were then relieved from duty, wore their best clothes, and were allowed to mount the best horses and to have their sport. These races were usually from two to four hundred yards and participated in by only two horses at a time. Bets were made in cattle and horses, and large numbers of animals were lost and won on these occasions; at times one hundred up to several hundred head of cattle were bet on the result of a single short race. They generally put up their <HI REND="italics">vaquillas</HI>
025.sgm:<P>There was on one occasion a famous race at Los Angeles of nine miles, between the horses of two wealthy rancheros, and an immense amount of property changed hands on the result of the race, cattle and horses, mostly the former. This race attracted quite a large crowd of people, and was considered a great affair for that day. Don Jos&eacute; Ramon Carrillo, of the Santa Rosa ranch, was extremely fond of horses, a very expert and accomplished horseman himself, and a brave and good fellow. On his rancho he had a number of fine <HI REND="italics">caponeras</HI>
025.sgm:<P>On several occasions when I was visiting him in the summer season, when the bears were plenty, he was always engaged in hunting them, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>In 1844 Don Jos&eacute; Ramon ran a race with the first horse he had sold me, at the Mission Dolores, against a horse owned by Francisco Sanchez, named Palomino, and was just barely beaten, the distance being 300 yards. Thereupon, William Rae, of the Hudson's Bay Company's post, put up a mouse-colored horse named Grullo for a race of 600 yards against mine, and the bets were doubled, and Don Jos&eacute; Ramon, with my horse, won by a long distance. He was much pleased with his success, and Rae was much chagrined with the failure of his horse. At this occurrence, James Alexander Forbes, then and for several years previous British vice-consul, was the judge of the race. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The bull-fighting was usually held on one of the Saints' days. The bull was turned into an enclosure, and the horsemen would come in, mounted on their best animals, and fight the bull for the entertainment of the spectators, killing him finally. Sometimes a bear and bull fight would take place, another amusement they had at the killing season at the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>When cattle were slaughtered, bears came to the place at night to feast on the meat that was left after the hides and tallow were taken. The bears coming, the rancheros, with vaqueros, would go there for the purpose of lassoing them. This was one of their greatest sports; highly exciting and dangerous, but the bear always got the worst of it. One would lasso a bear by the neck, and another lasso the same beast by the hindfoot, and then pulling in different directions the poor bear was soon strained and strangled to death. Sometimes half a dozen or more would be taken in a single night in this way. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At one time I was encamped at the embarcadero of Temescal, a place between where the Oakland long wharf and Berkeley are now, in order to receive hides and tallow from the cattle that were slaughtered not far away, which articles I was collecting for my employer, Nathan Spear. I was there for several days with one man, the boats meantime taking down loads of the hides and tallow to Yerba Buena and returning empty. One night I sent my man up to Don Vicente Peralta's house, on an errand, and remained in my tent alone all night, to my great peril, as I soon discovered. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm: ground was about a mile from my tent, and Peralta and his vaqueros came down in the night to lasso the bears for sport. Some of them got away from their enemies and made for my tent, probably being attracted to it as a strange object looming up white in the darkness; with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:the curiosity which such animals are known to possess, they proceeded to investigate it. I sat in the tent and heard these animals circling round and round outside for several hours, going off at times and returning. I was in constant fear that they might push their noses under the canvas, work themselves into the tent and devour me, and had they not been full from feasting on the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AUTHOR'S GRIZZLED HAIRS DUE TO GRIZZLY BEARS</P>
025.sgm:<P>As I sat there quietly and listened to their deep breathing and movements outside, I was filled with fear and anxiety, and it may easily be imagined how much I was relieved when finally the beasts went off for good and left me alone. I attribute my prematurely gray hairs to the alarm I felt on that occasion. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On giving Don Vicente Peralta a narrative of my narrow escape from being devoured by the bears which he and his vaqueros had stampeded to my tent, he laughed heartily, but became serious when he realized the gravity of my situation, and remarked that there were not enough men at the place that night to lasso all the bears, and three of them had escaped, as he supposed to the mountains. He said they were not hungry, having made a hearty supper from the slaughtered cattle, but he thought it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>After this occurrence whenever I had occasion to stop over night there, he would send a vaquero with a horse, and kind messages from himself and wife to be their guest for the night, which invitations I gladly accepted. He asked me once or twice to accompany him on his bear-hunting expeditions, but I always declined, preferring the company of his handsome wife for the evening to the possible danger of being devoured by the <HI REND="italics">osos</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Don Vicente was about six feet tall, finely proportioned, straight as an arrow, weighing about 225 pounds, hospitable, kind, and full of native dignity. His surroundings were in keeping with his appearance, manners and tastes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I have ridden in company with him going to the Feast of San Jos&eacute;, when he was attired in a costly suit trimmed with gold and silver lace, sitting with ease and grace on his horse, which was equally well equipped, followed by two mounted and well-dressed <HI REND="italics">mozos</HI>
025.sgm:<P>On one occasion in 1840 I stopped at his house during one of my trading expeditions, remaining over night. In the morning, when about ready to depart, he said to me, " <HI REND="italics">No se abure." (Don't</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Don Vicente being one of our best customers, with whom I was anxious to keep on good terms, I accepted the invitation, being also pleased to enjoy the day as he proposed. He mounted me on a splendid horse and taking another himself, we went along enjoying the freshness and beauty of everything about us exceedingly. Presently Don Vicente said, "We will now have a little fun and I want you to assist me. You see among those cattle there a three-year-old cow. I select her because she is the fleetest. Your horse is well trained and will follow the movements of the game. You must take care that he does not unsaddle you by his quick movements. Now let us go for her!" </P>
025.sgm:<P>We let the horses out and they immediately rushed away, and in a few moments we lapped the cow, one on either side. He leaned over and caught the creature by the tail, and instantly she was turned over and over toward me, and my horse, at the right moment, leaped to one side to allow room for the animal's movements. It was very exciting, and I shall never forget <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The native Californians were not naturally gamblers. I have seen some of the lower classes gamble for small sums with cards, but have never known the wealthy rancheros, or the higher class in towns, to indulge in gambling, except on special occasions, like feast days of the Saints or at a horse-race. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The merchants sold to the rancheros and other Californians whatever goods they wanted, to any reasonable amount, and gave them credit from one killing season to another. I have never known of a single instance in which a note or other written obligation was required of them. At the time of purchasing they were furnished with bills of the goods, which were charged in the account books, and in all my intercourse and experience in trade with them, extending over many years, I never knew a case of dishonesty on their part. They always kept their business engagements, paid their bills promptly at the proper time in hides and tallow, which were the currency of the country, and sometimes, though seldom, in money. They regarded their verbal promise as binding and sacred, relied upon their honor, and were always faithful. This may be said of all their relations with others; they were faithful in their promises and engagements of every kind. They were too proud to condescend to do anything mean or disgraceful. This honesty and integrity were eminently characteristic of these early Californians. As much cannot be said of some of their descendants, who have become demoralized, and are not like their ancestors in this regard. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX  <HI REND="italics">Mexican Public Men and Others</HI>
025.sgm:<P>AT the head of the government of the department of California was, of course, the governor, who resided at Monterey, then the seat of government. The next officer in rank was the prefect, whose position was somewhat similar in rank to that of lieutenant-governor at the present day, only he was much more of an executive officer. He resided at Monterey also. Through him all orders emanating from the governor were issued to officers of lower rank--the sub-prefects--who presided over districts of considerable extent; for instance, that in the vicinity of Yerba Buena comprised San Francisco and Contra Costa, the latter being the name of all the country on the east side of the bay. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The alcaldes presided over the towns, and were supervised by the sub-prefects. There was also a secretary of state at Monterey, who was the immediate counselor of the governor, generally a man of education and of more than ordinary ability. The commander-in-chief of the forces of the department also usually resided at Monterey, although in the case of General Vallejo there was an exception, he residing at Sonoma by permission of the supreme government of Mexico. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The governor's cabinet consisted of the prefect, the secretary of state and the commander-in-chief. The government was both civil and military in character. The office of the prefect was of great importance. The whole civil administration of affairs went through his hands. His orders were issued to the various sub-prefects of the department, and they in turn issued them to the alcaldes. In matters of doubt concerning the titles to pueblo lands and other questions which the alcaldes were called to pass upon, the sub-prefects were often consulted, and questions of importance referred from the alcaldes to the prefect, through the sub.perfects, and by him laid before the governor and cabinet for final decisions. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There was also the junta departmental, comprising seven members, which assembled at the seat of government once a year. The members were elected from different sections of the department, and remained in session <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>This body was largely occupied in passing upon titles to lands which had been conveyed by the governor to different persons, these grants being certified by the secretary of state. The grants were generally bestowed as a reward for services rendered the country in a military capacity, though there were some exceptions where grants were given to other persons at the option of the governor. He had full power to issue these grants, subject to approval or disapproval by the assembly. If they were approved, the title was considered perfect; if not approved, the title was considered inchoate, subject to further consideration and action by the junta. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In case of death of the governor, or other vacancy of his office the president of the junta departmental became governor <HI REND="italics">pro tem.</HI>
025.sgm:, until a new appointment was made by the supreme authority in Mexico. I recollect of only one instance where the president of the assembly became governor <HI REND="italics">pro tem.</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In 1834 or '35 an ayuntamiento, or town council, was formed for San Francisco, consisting of one alcalde, two regidores and a sindico, which body resided first at the Presidio; afterwards at the Mission. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There were no regularly established courts in the department at that time. The alcalde exercised the office of jug jury, lawyers and all, inasmuch as no lawyers were employed; in fact there were none in the department. The plaintiff and defendant simply appeared before the alcalde, and stated their case on either side, produced their witnesses, if they had any, and the alcalde decided the case speedily; generally on the spot, without delay. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I believe that more substantial justice was done in this way than in the courts of the present day, with all their elaborate machinery and prolonged course of proceedings. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The alcalde decided all cases of minor importance, and the penalty for lesser crimes was fine or imprisonment. Cases of more magnitude, like those of murder and other high crimes, were brought before the governor and cabinet at Monterey, and their decision in the matter was final. The governor had full power to condemn or discharge a prisoner, or to pardon him after sentence. The fate of the prisoner rested entirely in his hands. There was no hanging in those days, but when a prisoner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>These alcaldes as a class were men of good, strong common sense, and many of them had a fair education. As a rule they were honest in their administration of justice and sought to give every man his dues. I had occasion to appear before them frequently in my business transactions, with reference to hides that were not branded according to law, and other matters. I always found them ready upon a proper representation of the case to do what was just to all concerned. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The alcalde was an important personage in the town. His insignia of office consisted of a cane of light colored wood, handsomely finished, and ornamented at the top with silver or gold. Below the knob were holes in the cane, through which was drawn black silk cord, attached to tassels of the same material, hanging below. The alcaldes carried this staff on all occasions, and especially when about to perform any official act, such as ordering an arrest. Great respect and deference were paid to the cane and its bearer by the people at large. He was treated with great courtesy and politeness and looked up to as a person of undisputed authority. The administration of the governor and his cabinet, and of the various sub-prefects, was just and satisfactory to the people, and I have never known any instance to the contrary. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan B. Alvarado; who was governor of California when I came to this coast, was a native Californian. His mother was a sister of General Vallejo. He was educated at Monterey by an English instructor, W. E. P. Hartnell. When quite a young man, he was clerk to Nathan Spear, then a merchant at Monterey. I have frequently heard Spear speak in terms of the warmest admiration of his honesty and great ability. Spear himself was well read and intelligent, and I have heard him say that he took such an interest in young Alvarado, as he called him, that he was in the habit of imparting to him when in his employ a good deal of information about other countries and governments. Alvarado, who had a thirst for knowledge, was an eager listener, and received it gratefully; for a considerable portion of his acquirements he was indebted to Spear. In his early life he was more or less connected with the governing officials at Monterey, and then showed his talent in that direction. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It was in 1836 or '37, I think that Alvarado wrote a letter to President <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Castro, the second in command in the army, was an educated military man. Living at the headquarters of the government, he frequently consulted Alvarado on important military matters, and relied largely upon his opinions and advice. General Castro was a man of fair military ability, of excellent character, very popular, and much liked by his countrymen. </P>
025.sgm:<P>General Vallejo was a more reserved man than Alvarado. He was a native of California and lived continuously in Sonoma, with his family, attending to his immense herds of cattle and horses, and did not participate in active movements in the field. He occasionally visited Monterey, where his mother and nephew, the governor, resided. He was hospitable, and received the merchant traders on the coast at his fine mansion at Sonoma and entertained them handsomely. He was courteous to the higher class of foreigners, but had no taste for the companionship of the rougher class, miners, trappers and other adventurers whom he denominated "white Indians." </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the month of December, 1839, Jacob P. Leese, who was a brother-in-law of General Vallejo, Thomas Shaw, supercargo of the ship "Monsoon," of Boston, and myself, crossed the bay to Sonoma Landing in the schooner "Isabel," and appeared at General Vallejo's house in the evening. We were very cordially received, handsomely entertained at dinner, and invited to pass the night, which we did. On retiring we were shown to our several apartments; I found an elegant bed with beautifully trimmed and embroidered sheets and cover-lid and pillows; but on getting in to it I discovered there were no blankets, an oversight of the servant, and as the whole house had retired I could not arouse anybody to secure them, but lay there shivering and shaking through the night, wishing there were a little less elegance and a little more comfort. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I saw General Vallejo in Sonoma many times. His selection of horses for his own use was one of the finest in the country, comprising a large number of beautiful animals, well trained. I have seen him taking his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:morning and evening ride on horseback (there were no carriages in Sonoma at that time) and sitting on his fine horse in the most natural and graceful manner. He was considered skillful in the use of the lasso, and also expert in the <HI REND="italics">colliar</HI>
025.sgm:, or catching the bull by the tail and overturning him when going at full speed, as before described. This was a favorite amusement amongst the rancheros, and any one of them, though he might be the possessor of many thousands of cattle and horses, who was not fully up to the mark in the skillful and daring maneuvers of using the lasso and in <HI REND="italics">colliar</HI>
025.sgm:<P>General Vallejo received a school education under the instruction of W. E. P. Hartnell at Monterey. Being naturally fond of study, and appreciating the advantages of education of a higher order, and having great ambition for learning, he has continued his studious habits during his whole life, gathering books here and there whenever opportunity offered, sometimes from vessels coming to the coast, and if there were any special books he wanted he would send to Mexico, to Spain, to France, to England, to the United States, or to any part of the world to procure them. Having accumulated large wealth in his younger days he has always gratified his tastes in that direction. in visiting him in the earlier days I would find him in his library surrounded by his books, in which he took the greatest delight and pride. He illustrates in the best manner the oft quoted phrase, "a gentleman and a scholar." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Pablo de la Guerra was a native Californian, and a pupil and brother-in-law of Hartnell, the latter having married one of the de la Guerra sisters. He was a man fond of reading, an accomplished scholar, speaking his own language in the best manner, and also the English fluently and correctly. He was in the government service, and in 1845 became Collector of the Port. His father was Don Jos&eacute; de la Guerra, a native of Spain, who always resided at Santa Barbara, and who married one of the Carrillo family there. The four brothers of the lady-Don Carlos, Anastacio, Domingo and Jos&eacute; Antonio Carrillo--were each of them at least six feet in height, weighing over 200 pounds, and finely proportioned. Don Carlos was the leader in the revolution against Governor Alvarado to displace him in 1838. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Jos&eacute; Antonio resided at Los Angeles, and was considered a leading man of talent in that part of the country, being surpassed only by Alvarado in intellect. During this revolution he was a most efficient worker in the movement to place his brother Don Carlos in the position of governor. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Pablo de la Guerra was a member of the first Constitutional Convention in '49, and assisted greatly in the formation of the constitution. He was several times elected to the Senate, (State) representing Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo. He often presided over the Senate in the absence of the regular officer, and was frequently asked to become a candidate for governor of the State, but declined. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Alfred Robinson, sometimes known as Don Alfredo Robinson, who still lives (1889) in San Francisco, married a sister of Don Pablo de la Guerra and of Do&ntilde;a Augusta Jimeno. I never saw the lady, but she must have been fine looking, coming, as she did, from a handsome family. This wedding is described in Dana's "Two Years Before the Mast." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Manuel Jimeno, who was secretary of state under Alvarado, was a native of Mexico, and emigrated to California when very young. He married one of Don Pablo de la Guerra's sisters, Do&ntilde;a Augusta. He was considered a man of learning and &amp; statesman. I think he held also the position of secretary of state under Micheltorena. He was familiar with the laws of Mexico which were in fore in the department of California, and filled the office with credit to himself and the department. His wife was an accomplished lady, very entertaining in her conversation, overflowing with wit and vivacity. I have frequently heard her, after the change of the government to that of the United States, express her utter disapprobation in the most sarcastic language; but she was so intelligent and her manner so captivating, that the listener was overcome with admiration of her brightness and the pungency and appropriateness of her speech. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In a patriotic outburst, Se&ntilde;ora Do&ntilde;a Augusta Jimeno exclaimed one day that she would delight to have the ears of the officers of the United States squadron for a necklace, such was her hatred of the new rulers of her country. But, with all this, it was well known in Monterey that whenever an officer of the army or navy was taken sick Mrs. Jimeno was the first to visit the patient and bestow on him the known kindness so characteristic of the native California ladies, with encouraging words, and delicacies suitable to his condition. This would show that she disliked them as conquerors of her country, but respected them as individuals. Some years after Mrs. Jimeno became a widow, she married Dr. Ord of the United States army. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mariano Pacheco, the brother of the governor, was with me for two years as clerk in Yerba Buena, in 1843 and '44. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Do&ntilde;a Ramona, the mother of Governor Pacheco, when I first knew her in 1838, at Santa Barbara, was a handsome woman, queenly in her walk and bearing, and among her countrywomen, who were noted for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>After the death of her first husband Mrs. Pacheco married Captain John Wilson, an old Scotchman, and lived at Santa Barbara. She was kind to all the merchants who visited that port. In 1842 and '43 I was at Santa Barbara as supercargo of the "Don Quixote," and often dined with her. Frequently when the hour arrived, and I was not there, she would send a servant round the town to find me, with the message, " <HI REND="italics">Do&ntilde;a Ramona esta esperando a usted para la comida</HI>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX  <HI REND="italics">The Hudson's Bay Company in Yerba Buena</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE Hudson's Bay Company was a commercial corporation existing under charter granted by Charles II. in 1670. During the first half of the XIX century it had posts and stores for trade with Indians and trappers at Astoria, Fort Vancouver and other points on the Columbia. The head agent, residing at Vancouver, was given the title of "governor." In 1821 McLoughlin was appointed governor for the company of all the country in the Oregon Territory west of the Rocky Mountains. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1841 Governor McLoughlin (who was a large man) and suite came from the Hudson's Bay Company's post, on the Columbia river, in the bark "Cowlitz," to Yerba Buena, for the purpose of establishing a post of the company at this point. The governor was also called Dr. McLoughlin. He was talkative and companionable. The four or five gentlemen who accompanied him were also large men, of refinement, and appeared to be men of prominence. They purchased a portion of a block of land, with a house, from Jacob P. Leese, bounded by Montgomery street on the west,<ANCHOR ID="n20-4">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Sacramento on the south, Clay on the north, on the east coming near to the water mark of the bay. They purchased four fifty varas, being two-thirds of the whole block. The house was a large wooden two-story building, occupied by Leese and his family. The price paid for the property was $4800, half in coin and half in goods. The "Cowlitz" remained about two weeks at Yerba Buena, and then the governor and his party left in her for Monterey, and proceeded thence to their post on the Columbia river. The building was not given up by Leese until the arrival of William G. Rae, son-in-law of Dr. McLoughlin, from the Columbia river post, with a large stock of goods in the "Cowlitz." He opened the new post in September, 1841, and took possession of the property. The goods were sent from England to the Hudson's Bay Company's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-4">This is an error. Leese sold the Hudson's Bay Company the Easterly two thirds of the block bounded by Kearny, Sacramento, Clay and Montgomery Streets.  If the word "East" be substituted for "West" Davis' description may stand.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>Rae was a Scotchman, tall and handsome, and much of a gentleman. I became intimately acquainted with him, and have played "whist" at his house many times until daylight. He was fond of this game, a skillful player, and always selected me for his partner, as he considered me a good player also. We sometimes bet a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
025.sgm:<P>One evening there were three sets of gentlemen playing "whist" in Mr. Rae's rooms, he and I being partners as usual. During one of the games I saw by a significant look from him that he had a poor hand, and that he rather conceded the game to our opponents; to which I assented. As the game proceeded, I had only two hearts in my hand, the ace and the king; I deliberately threw away the king, which seemed to astonish him, as I saw by a kind of dry smile on his countenance. This trick was my partner's already, but as I could not follow suit I played the king of hearts, and thus enabled my partner to use his cards to advantage, and when hearts were played afterward my low trumps secured other tricks, and the game was decided in our favor. This greatly delighted Rae, who expressed his unbounded satisfaction, and so emphatically that all the playing in the room stopped, and his enthusiasm created general hilarity. He said to the other gentleman that this movement of mine in the game was one of the best conceived that he ever witnessed, and complimented me highly for my skill. If he had just made $10,000 by some lucky stroke of business he could not have been more delighted. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The games of "whist" and "twenty-one" were favorite amusements of the people in those days, and generally indulged in, there being no public amusements of any kind. Rae had with him his wife, the daughter of Governor McLoughlin, and two or three interesting children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The other third of the block containing the Hudson's Bay store was owned by John J. Vioget, a Swiss, who lived there, and had a kind of public house, with a billiard-room and bar, which at that time was the only place of resort for the entertainment of captains, supercargoes, merchants and clerks of the town. He had also occasional visitors from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>One day Rae, Estudillo and a number of others happened to be at Vioget's house, which was a sort of exchange or meeting place for comparing notes on business matters, talking over affairs in general. At the same time a little amusement was perhaps indulged in. Some were chatting, some smoking, some playing billiards, and presently Rae challenged Estudillo to a contest at wrestling, to prove who was the best man. The challenge was accepted, and they stood up facing each other; on the word being given they came together and Rae was immediately thrown, to his great amazement. At the second trial he was thrown again, and this was repeated a third, fourth and fifth time, until Rae frankly acknowledged that his opponent was the better wrestler, and he himself was fairly beaten. He invited us to join him in a glass of wine. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rae was much respected. He was liberal to those less favored by circumstances than himself, frequently giving little presents to persons who came to his store of things most needed by them. His table was always finely supplied with the best of everything, and he had a generous sideboard and entertained a great deal of company. He and Spear were the chief entertainers. There being no hotels at that time, the hospitalities of the town devolved mostly upon these two gentlemen. The captains, supercargoes and other strangers were always welcome at Rae's house, and it was a pleasure to him to entertain them. He had the true California nature and feeling in this respect. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rae had a clerk named Robert Ridley, who was a regular English cockney, a good-looking fellow. He married the daughter of Juana Briones, the first settler at North Beach. He was singular and comical, and was considered the funny man of the town. Everybody knew him, and he was popular and liked by all. He knew everyone's business, was the news-carrier and gossip of the place, and was at home in every house. He imagined he was a lady's man, and at times stirred up a little excitement among the feminines. He was a great teller of extravagant stories--a regular Munchausen--and withal was considered the life and fun of the place. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I met him one fine spring morning between seven and eight o'clock. "Bill," said he, "how many <HI REND="italics">London Docks</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Rae told me the same day that two large decanters filled with dark <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The business of the Hudson's Bay Company's post was quite successful up to January, 1845, when it was discovered that Rae was unfaithful to his wife, having succumbed to the fascinations of a California lady. Upon this becoming public, Rae, who was a sensitive man, was so overcome with mortification and disgrace that he shot himself. After his death the British vice-consul, James Alexander Forbes, took possession of the post, and was instructed by the managers of the general post on the Columbia river to close out the business of the company at Yerba Buena as soon as practicable. This was done in the course of a few months, and the land and house sold to Mellus &amp; Howard for $5000. They afterward opened a commercial establishment there, using the building as a store, and in the winter of 1849-50 this building was converted into the United States Hotel, which became a popular resort. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI  <HI REND="italics">Commodore Wilkes Visits Yerba Buena</HI>
025.sgm:<P>IN 1841 the squadron in command of Commodore Wilkes visited the Columbia river on an exploring expedition, the fleet consisting of the United States sloop of war "Vincennes," which was the flag ship, the sloop of war "Peacock," commanded by Captain Hudson, and the brig "Porpoise." In going into the Columbia, across the bar, the "Peacock" was lost, and became a total wreck, but the officers and crew were rescued and taken on the two other vessels. Sailing thence, after the completion of their work on the Columbia, the "Vincennes" and "Porpoise" arrived in the bay of San Francisco in July and anchored off Saucelito. Soon after, the numerous boats of the vessels were prepared for the survey of the Sacramento river. Commodore Wilkes headed the party, and they were engaged for about two months in exploring that river and some of its branches. During the survey they frequently visited Captain Sutter, and I have often heard the officers speak of his hospitality to them at his establishment on the Sacramento. They also made some surveys of San Francisco bay, remaining here until October. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore Wilkes was not a man to impress a stranger favorably at first sight, being rather severe and forbidding in aspect, not genial and companionable, and not popular with his officers, though they gave him credit for being very thorough in his discipline and duties, and there is no doubt he was a great explorer and a thoroughly scientific man. He was an indefatigable worker and accomplished a great deal, but, unlike other distinguished commanders who visited the coast, he was not given to sociability and had no entertainments on board his vessel; although several were given by his officers, who were a genial set, fond of enjoyments. I partook of their hospitality on several occasions, and had a very pleasant time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Wilkes was visited by General Vallejo and his brother Captain Salvador Vallejo, on board the "Vincennes," and the general was received with a salute and all the naval courtesies due to the commander-in-chief <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:of the forces of the department of California. He was also visited by Governor Alexander Rotcheff, of the Russian American Fur Company at Fort Ross, and I afterward heard Rotcheff say, when speaking of his visit to Wilkes, that he took great interest in this exploring expedition. In his visits to Spear, which he made frequently, he told us with enthusiasm of his listening for hours to Wilkes and his officers in their accounts of their visits to the South Sea Islands and other parts of the globe, and their descriptions of the habits, manners, character and mode of life of the natives. Some of the officers of the squadron visited Rotcheff at Fort Ross, and were handsomely entertained by him during their brief stay. It was sixty or seventy miles from Saucelito to Fort Ross, and to enable the officers to get there conveniently, Rotcheff sent down a number of his finest horses, with a vaquero, to take them up, having adopted the Spanish fashion of herding horses in <HI REND="italics">caponeras</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The supplies for the ward-rooms of the two vessels while in port, were obtained from Spear, and as I was his active business man, I became well acquainted with the officers. I found them fine fellows, full of life, and ready for any enjoyment that came along. They would sometimes send over a boat for supplies in the morning, and address me a line, saying they would be over in the evening, a dozen of them or so. Meanwhile I would dispatch a boy out to my friend Guerrero, the sub-prefect, at the Mission Dolores, asking him to send me a dozen horses and saddles, which he would kindly do. If there were not saddles enough, I made them up in town. When the party arrived in town about dusk, the horses would be ready, and mounting them, we rode out to Guerrero's house. The young men and women in the neighborhood were invited in, and we would have a little dance, the party generally lasting till morning. The young fellows from the ship enjoyed it highly after their long life at sea. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore Wilkes seldom came ashore at Yerba Buena, being a very busy man, and when not engaged in surveying outside, was industriously occupied on the vessel in working out the results of his explorations and surveys, and recording them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spear appreciated Wilkes' labors, and the commodore took quite a liking to him and invited him to dine on board the vessel several times, and they had several interviews. Spear had great respect and admiration for the commodore, which was reciprocated by him, whenever he found a man who could understand and appreciate his work, which was everything to him, he became more affable and companionable than with others.  </P>
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025.sgm:<P>Wilkes more particularly esteemed Spear from the fact that he was an American, and one of the first American settlers on the coast, having come here in 1823; and also from the fact that he had done a great deal through his correspondence with friends in the east to inform the United States government of the great resources and future importance of California, describing minutely its climate, soil, productions and commercial advantages. His principal correspondent was his brother, Paul Spear, a wealthy druggist of Boston, who communicated through friends in Washington this information to the authorities. Spear also predicted to me and others that at some future time mineral discoveries of importance would be made here. </P>
025.sgm:<P>These efforts of Spear to make the advantages of California known to the government, and his views and opinions in regard thereto, greatly interested Wilkes, and he commended him warmly for what he had done in that direction. Spear was the first merchant who established himself on shore in California, first at Monterey, afterward with a branch at Yerba Buena, to which place he went later himself. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Governor Alvarado, who felt very grateful to Spear for the aid he had given him in his younger days, and with whom he always maintained a cordial friendship, often suggested to Spear that he should become a Mexican citizen, and urged this upon him repeatedly, in order that he might bestow upon him a grant of eleven lies of land, which was the extent allowed by law, and which grant could only be made to a citizen of Mexico, and he assured him that he would be most happy to do this if Spear would only comply with his suggestion; but Spear persistently refused to renounce his allegiance to his own country, which he honored and loved too much to wish to change his nationality as for even so tempting an offer, although many Americans and other foreigners had done so for the purpose of obtaining grants of land from the Mexican government. During their friendly intercourse the governor would sometimes say to Spear, "Don Nathan, it is only a question of time when this country will belong to your government. I regret this, but such is undoubtedly the ruling of Providence;" or something to that effect. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spear told me that in his conversations with Wilkes in visiting him on the vessel, the commodore expressed himself repeatedly as more than delighted with the bay of San Francisco and the Sacramento river, and said there was no question as to the future greatness and importance which would ensue when the bay and the other commercial advantages of this territory were availed of. He said that California would surely belong to our government at some time in the future. It was understood, and was, in fact, stated by Wilkes to Spear, that the chief object of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In my visit to the officers of the vessels the conversation in the ward-room would frequently turn upon the bay of San Francisco, and they often declared their admiration, and said that in all their visits to other parts of the world they had seen nothing to equal it. The more they became conversant with it in their surveys the more they were impressed with its importance, and they would sometimes exclaim, "This is ours!" referring to the future, when the United States government should hold possession of this part of the country. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During my early residence here British men-of-war came to the coast and to the bay of San Francisco about once a year or so, remaining two or three weeks at a time, touching also at Monterey, and sometimes going north to visit the British possessions. They generally landed at <ANCHOR ID="n21-5">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Saucelito, at which point they replenished their supplies to some extent. Captain Richardson, the owner of <NOTE>*</NOTE>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-5">Americanized into Sausalito. The Spanish Saucelito means: little willow.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>It was the impression then, and doubtless the fact, that the American war vessels were sent for the purpose of keeping an eye on the vessels of other nations, particularly the British, as bearing upon the future of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In Spear's interviews with Wilkes when he visited him on board the "Vincennes," the commodore freely conversed with him about the future of the Pacific coast, and stated that the British government was the only power which the United States had cause to feel any concern about in reference to California, and said further, that the United States squadron in the Pacific was specially instructed to keep an eye on the movements of the British vessels of war in this ocean, with a view of intercepting any movement that they might make looking toward securing possession of California. The commodore at this time showed that he had no special liking for the English, as was subsequently evinced in his memorable capture of Mason and Slidell from a British vessel during our civil war. In one of his conversations with Spear he said, with that frankness and freedom from reserve which characterized his speech with those in whom he felt confidence, "These Britishers shall never get possession of California. Our government is constantly on the alert to Prevent any such design. We are their equal, and a little more, as has been proved in the past." This greatly delighted Spear, who was a thorough American, and longed to have the country come under the American flag. Wilkes also informed Spear that Thomas O. Larkin afterwards our consul at Monterey was specially instructed by the government authorities at Washington through the secretary of state, to constantly advise the government of all the movements of the English on this coast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During the visit of Wilkes' squadron to the Fiji Island, prior to coming to California, a chief of high rank had been taken captive in one of the fights which frequently occurred between the different tribes. The chief was held by his captors for ransom. Wilkes being desirous of securing a Fijian to take home with him, paid the ransom in presents of such articles as he had on board his vessel to the captors, who thereupon released their prisoner, and Wilkes took him on board his vessel and brought him to California. He was a thorough savage and cannibal. In my visits to the "Vincennes" I frequently saw him. He was confined in a room of good size, in the forepart of the vessel, constantly guarded by a marine. He was a man of large and powerful frame, with rather a square countenance, and a cunning look in his eyes, but not ferocious in his appearance and manner. He was very dark in his complexion, something between a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Richardson repeated to Commodore Wilkes the tradition of the old Indian Monica with regard to Golden Gate at one time having been closed, and subsequently rent apart by some great convulsion of nature, making an outlet for the waters of the bay through to the ocean, and Wilkes became greatly interested in the matter. With some of his scientific corps, together with Captain Richardson, he went out to the Golden Gate in one of his boats to carefully observe the two points on either side; having become familiar with the bay in their surveys, which extended as far up as Alviso and the surrounding country, they could form an intelligent opinion in the matter. They said they thought it probable that the story of the old Indian was correct, and that the bay once found an outlet through the San Jos&eacute; valley into Monterey bay. The botanist of the party, with whom I was quite intimate, particularly expressed his belief in the correctness of this theory or tradition. The commodore was so interested in the matter that he had the old Indian Monica brought on board his vessel by Captain Richardson, and questioned him closely all about it himself. Monica was treated with great courtesy on this occasion and was shown all over the vessel. The Fiji captive was also exhibited to him, and he regarded him with much interest and curiosity, especially as Captain Richardson explained to him that in his own country he was a great fighter; that after a battle between the different tribes the bodies of the slain were taken by the victors and devoured as a grand feast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore Wilkes had with him a full scientific corps, all the various <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Richardson who had come here in 1822, was much liked by Wilkes, though an Englishman, inasmuch as he was a thorough sailor and pilot, and well acquainted with the bay of San Francisco, and he was also an agreeable and obliging gentleman. He gave Wilkes a good deal of information about different parts of the bay, Indicated points for examination and survey, and his suggestions were of aid to Wilkes and were found by him of much value. When the commodore was about to leave the bay of San Francisco for Monterey, he requested Richardson to pilot the vessel out to sea. Richardson advised him not to leave on the day appointed, as there had been a strong south-east wind blowing, the bar was very rough, breaking almost across, and he thought it too hazardous. The commodore being of a very determined nature--headstrong, as Richardson expressed it--was not easily changed from his purpose when he had once made up his mind to anything. He said be would go nevertheless, and asked Richardson to be on board at a certain hour. The vessels accordingly started, but on nearing the bar it was decided to come to anchor just inside, which they did. During their stay there, the swell of the sea swept over the "Vincennes," and broke loose and set in motion some spars on the upper deck, which killed two of the marina on board. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII  <HI REND="italics">The "Julia Ann" Sails Into Port</HI>
025.sgm:<P>FROM 1835 to 1839 Captain Eliab Grimes, of Boston, was a wealthy merchant at Honolulu, engaged in general trade. He imported his goods from Boston, and sent out once a year from the Islands for the purpose of hunting the sea-otters on the coast of California, the American brig "Conroy," owned by him, and commanded by Captain James Bancroft, an Englishman by birth, but a citizen of the United States by naturalization. Bancroft lived at Honolulu. On these voyages the vessel first proceeded to the coast of Alaska, where she took on board from sixty to seventy of the native Indians as hunters, with their light-skin canoes, and then brought them down to the coast of California, the favorite hunting ground being off shore between Santa Barbara and San Diego. They generally arrived there early in the spring, and continued the work during the summer and until late in the autumn, when the season expired. They were always very successful in securing a large number of skins, and when the hunting was over, the vessel returned to Alaska to leave the hunters and their canoes, and proceeded thence to Honolulu. As these skins were very valuable, Captain Grimes and Captain Bancroft, the latter having an interest in the vessel and the voyage, became wealthy. Hunting sea-otters on the coast of California without permission of the authorities was contrary to the laws of Mexico. Captain Bancroft had no such permission and was therefore violating the law. But as the government had no revenue cutters to enforce it, the offenders pursued their profitable occuption without interference. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1837 the government of the department of California bought of Captain John Paty a schooner of about a hundred tons, named the "California," but she was not fitted for revenue-cutter service, having only one or two small guns, and she was used chiefly to carry dispatches between Monterey and Mazatlan and San Blas, in communication between the department of California and the supreme government at Mexico. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Bancroft married at Honolulu in 1836, and on the last voyage <illus entity="a025-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">These extracts from the log and papers of the schooner</HI>
025.sgm: Julia Ann <HI REND="italics">are in the handwriting of William a. Leidesdorff, who reached Yerba Buena in</HI>
025.sgm: 1841.  <HI REND="italics">The barter account gives a perfect picture of trade methods in vogue in California before the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill</HI>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Leidesdorff's signature appears on this account with a member of his crew</HI>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Leidesdorff's rise to affluence is told interestingly by Davis in his narrative</HI>
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025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1839 there arrived in the bay of San Francisco from British Columbia a British vessel of war, Captain Belcher, which anchored east of Yerba Buena. She was on an exploring expedition in the Pacific Ocean. Soon after the vessel dropped anchor Captain Belcher came ashore, accompanied by some of his officers, and called at Spear's store and also at Jacob P. Leese's residence. Captain Belcher stated to Mr. Spear that he would remain in the bay a few weeks and make some surveys of our miniature inland sea and the Sacramento river. The work of the ship while in the bay was never made known to anyone here, at the time, to my knowledge. She remained at Yerba Buena but twenty-four hours, and then departed for Saucelito, where she was anchored during the work of her boats around the bay and on the Sacramento river. Captain Richardson, owner of the Saucelito rancho, said but little or nothing in regard to Captain Belcher's visit and his surveys of the bay and rivers. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At this early period, and several years before Wilke's exploring expedition, it would seem that England had her attention directed to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The schooner "Julia Ann," Captain William A. Leidesdorff, who is well known in the history of San Francisco, left New York about January, 1841, for the coast of California through the Straits of Magellan. J. C. Jones, former United States consul at Honolulu, who owned the schooner, left New York sometime afterward in a sailing vessel to meet the "Julia Ann" at Panama. He proceeded to the Isthmus on the Atlantic side, crossed to Panama, and expected to find the vessel there on his arrival, but was compelled to wait sixty days before she appeared. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During her passage through the Straits she encountered many delays and perils, having almost constant head-winds, and being in great dread of the Indians, who were cannibals and who swarmed about the vessel in their canoes, a little distance off, apparently waiting an opportunity to pounce upon the schooner and capture all on board. A constant watch was therefore kept up to prevent such a calamity. They finally got through the Straits, and were greatly relieved to find themselves beyond the reach of the savages. They arrived at Panama just as Jones was about chartering another vessel to take him up the coast, thinking his own must be lost. Robert G. Davis, a brother of mine, was a passenger on board the schooner; also John Weed, of a very wealthy family of New York; who took the voyage for the benefit of his health. My brother had a stock of merchandise aboard for sale on the coast. She arrived at Monterey in June, 1841. This was Leidesdorff's first visit here. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In January, 1842, I left Nathan Spear and took passage on the ship "Alert," Captain Phelps, to Monterey, and there found the bark "Don Quixote," Captain John Paty, and I made arrangements with him to become supercargo of that vessel, and at once assumed that position. We came to Yerba Buena, remained here a few weeks trading around the bay, and I made very successful sales and collections for Paty. On leaving here we proceeded to Monterey. About the last of February we sailed from there for Honolulu with a cargo of hides and otter and beaver skins, which we disposed of on reaching there, and purchased a full cargo of goods for the market of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>These goods had been brought principally from Boston and New York, and some from England, France and Germany. There was only five per cent. duty on foreign goods imported into the Islands in those days, and Honolulu was a depot where the ships brought their goods from different parts of the world, and from there they were sent out to supply the whole western coast of America; points in California, the Columbia river, the British and Russian possessions north, and also to Mexican ports. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII  <HI REND="italics">Boston Ships and Traders</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE "Don Quixote" left Honolulu on the 31st of May and returned to this coast, entered at Monterey, and traded along the coast for the remainder of the year; and she left Santa Barbara, returning to Honolulu, in February, 1843; sailing thence, she arrived at Yerba Buena on the 20th of May. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On this voyage also we brought to port a full cargo of merchandise. Immediately the sub-prefect came on board and ordered us to Monterey for entry. I knew the sub-prefect well, and told him the tide would not admit of our leaving till the next day. He then placed a guard upon the vessel to remain with us until we left the port not a regular custom house officer, but a citizen selected by him for this dial duty. We had a purpose in coming to Yerba Buena first. The duties on goods imported into California were very high at that time, and this was a great temptation to merchants trading on the coast to avoid them as far as possible. The invoice cost of our cargo at Honolulu was $20,000 and the duties would have amounted to nearly or quite as much, averaging about 100 per cent. While the merchants and captains trading on the coast desired to keep on friendly terms with the Mexican government, and had no thought or intention of opposing it in any way, at the same time they did not entertain so much affection for it as to induce them to contribute to its revenues any more than they could well avoid, and so whenever they saw an opportunity to outwit the custom house authorities they availed themselves of it. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Soon after the guard was placed on board, one of us who knew him very well, approached him and told him we were going to lock him up in a state room. "What?" said he in surprise; "What's the matter?" We laughed, and told him not to be alarmed, and he soon understood, apparently what we were aiming at. He was told that he could have his supper and could take his smoke, and then go into the state-room, where he would find a nice bed, a bottle of Madeira, a bottle of aguardiente, cigars, and everything to make him comfortable, and that the door would be locked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Accordingly, after finishing his supper and his cigar, he went into the state-room, as desired, the door was locked and the key laid aside, and nothing further was heard from him till the next morning. We put on all the boats and men, and during the night worked industriously and landed about half our cargo, all the more valuable goods-silks, etc., on which the duty was the highest, and a large quantity of sugar. The tide favored us, and we put the goods on the bench near Spear's store, and the men rolled them in. We ceased our labors about four o'clock in the morning, well satisfied with our night's work. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There was another vessel in the harbor, the ship "Admittance," of Boston, Captain Paterson, Henry Mellus supercargo, afterward of the firm of Mellus &amp; Howard. We muffled our oars in order not to attract the attention of the officers and crew of that vessel, but our movements were observed by them, as they informed us sometime afterward. We had, however, no fear of them, for we knew they would not report us as they might sometime themselves be engaged in similar business, and they were interested in keeping quiet. The penalties for smuggling were very severe under the Mexican law--death in some cases. We left on the following day for Monterey, to enter the remainder of the cargo, first recompensing our guard, as promised, and putting him ashore, and on reaching the port of entry we duly entered the goods on board and paid the duties, to the satisfaction of the custom house, having saved a handsome sum by our night's operations, concerning which no suspicion was ever created in the minds of the sub-prefect or custom house officers. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I propose to say something in regard to the evasion of the revenue laws of Mexico by the merchants of California in early days, in order that the matter may be fully understood and regarded in its true light; to show that those who were transgressors of the law in this respect were not considered as law-breakers in any odious sense, but were in entire good standing in the community, and were, to a certain extent, benefiting the people and doing a service to the country. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In entering goods at the custom house, the revenue officers did not require any oath from the merchants as to the correctness of the invoices presented by them; in fact, no oath of any kind was required of them; and the practice was to prepare fictitious invoices, and pay $ 10,000 instead of $40,000 on a cargo of the value of the last named sum. The duties on goods imported from foreign countries were very high, averaging about 100 per cent., as previously stated; so that a cargo of miscellaneous goods costing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>These expenses were to be reimbursed from the profits arising from the exchange here, for hides, of the cargo from Boston and the sale of the hides there. In order to make this profitable the merchants found it necessary to evade the payment of duties to the Mexican government so far as practicable, and these duties were evaded to a very considerable extent, probably one-half. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Had the shipper been compelled, under a more stringent administration of the law, to pay the full amount of duties, be could not have made a fair profit out of the business. Moreover, he would have been compelled to charge so high a price for his goods that it would have been a severe tax upon the rancheros who required them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It will be seen, therefore, that not only was the temptation to smuggle very great, under the facilities presented by a loose administration of the revenue laws, but there were excellent reasons why the payment of duties should be evaded. They operated to such an extent that the merchant did not feel under that moral restraint, especially in the absence of the oath, which under other circumstances he might have experienced. If he defrauded the government, he was helping the people. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It would not have been good policy to crowd or cripple the farmers by making them pay exorbitant prices for their goods. This would have reacted upon the merchants and been injurious to the department. To give a higher price for his goods, on account of the larger duties paid by the merchant, the farmer would have been compelled to slaughter a larger number of cattle to secure the requisite quantity of hides and tallow to pay for them, thereby subtracting so much more from his wealth and the wealth of the department. The merchants, therefore, not only benefited themselves by this evasion of the duties, but, to a greater or less extent, protected the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The relations of the officials and the merchants were very pleasant. They associated together in the most friendly manner. The merchants always made it agreeable for the officials whenever they came aboard the vessels, treating them courteously and hospitably. The high rate of duties was sometimes alluded to, when the officers would smilingly say that they themselves considered the duties as very high. They would add that they presumed the government of Mexico knew what it was about when it fixed the rates. I have heard them admit that if the duties had been lower the government would probably have secured more revenue. Although I don't mean to intimate that they connived with the merchants knowingly to defraud the government, yet they certainly were not very sharpsighted or severe in the discharge of their vocation. However, had they been ever so vigilant and desirous of rigidly enforcing the laws, they were really powerless to do so efficiently, for they had no detectives, no revenue cutters-none of those numerous aids and facilities for detecting the offender against the laws which prevail in these latter days. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It was then considered as no disgrace for a merchant to evade the revenue laws to such an extent as he thought proper to take the risk; some doing so more than others; although it was never talked about among the merchants themselves, or made public in any way. There was a kind of tacit understanding that this was the general custom, and it was all right and proper to get as many goods in free of duty as possible, and it was encouraged by the rancheros themselves, as many were not solicitous of assisting the remote general government at Mexico by payment of exorbitant taxes in duties upon the necessaries of life required by them. Had the merchant been compelled to make oath, it would have been respected. The merchants, who were all foreigners, were an honorable and high-minded set of men, and would not have perjured themselves to evade the duties. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A large amount of goods could easily be concealed in the lining of a vessel, or a false lining be built, at no great expense around the sides of the ship, behind which they could be stowed away. There were numerous other hiding places which could be availed of. The captain, with the aid of the mates and the ship's carpenter, could make whatever arrangements or alterations were necessary to conceal successfully a large amount of goods. When the vessel reached the port of entry, the customs officers would go through the formality of making an examination of the ship; but they did it in quite a superficial way. They were so exceedingly well-mannered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Portions of the cargoes of vessels trading from South America and the Sandwich Islands were sometimes deposited upon the Islands off Santa Barbara, when the vessels approached the coast, before coming to the port of entry. I know of one instance in which about two-thirds of the cargo of a vessel from Honolulu was landed upon the Island of San Nicolas, about seventy miles south-east of Santa Barbara, after which the vessel entered at the custom house, paid the duties on the remainder of the cargo, and then returned to the Island and took in the portion she had left there. She then went on her way, trading about the coast as usual. Invoices also were arranged to suit the plans of the merchants. Goods were sometimes landed at night at Yerba Buena and other points outside of the port of entry, and at the port of entry itself, by eluding the officers, before entry was made. The rancheros, in a general way, would hint to the merchants that they ought to smuggle all the goods they could; they knowing they would get what they purchased cheaper than if all the duties were paid. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At Monterey we found the Baltimore bark "George Henry," Captain Stephen Smith, which had arrived a few days before from Callao, and had on board a steam saw-mill, the first ever brought to this coast. It was set in operation in the woods near Bodega for sawing lumber. Smith had Visited California in 1841 and purchased of Captain Sutter all his title and interest in Bodega, and also bought, for work of the mill, the rancho Blucher, near Bodega, covered with timber, mostly redwood. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In a few weeks we came to Yerba Buena, (our vessel, after having made entry and paid duties at the custom house, being free to go anywhere on coast trade) and took on board in the daytime and openly what we had secretly landed on the night of the 20th of May, transporting small lots at a time. This created no suspicion, as Spear, having a large stock of goods on hand at his store, might be supposed to be shipping a quantity of them down the coast. We left again, and traded along the coast as far as San Diego. There a new firm was formed, that of Paty, McKinley &amp; Co., for general trading purposes, consisting of Captain John Paty, of the "Don Quixote," James McKinley and Henry D. Fitch. The vessel went in as a part of the stock of the concern, being still under the command of Captain Paty. We then returned to Yerba Buena, after having touched at intermediate ports, and taking on at San Pedro some cargo belonging to McKinley &amp; Fitch, which came into general stock. On reaching Yerba Buena, we landed about half the cargo of the vessel at Richardson's old adobe building, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV  <HI REND="italics">American Occupation of 1842</HI>
025.sgm:<P>ONE of the most interesting events in the history of California was the first taking of Monterey by Commodore Jones, in 1842. The following account has been kindly offered for my use by Mr. S. S. Culverwell, who was a participant in that affair, and who now (1889) resides in San Francisco. </P>
025.sgm:<P>CULVERWELL's STORY OF THE CAPTURE </P>
025.sgm:<P>About August, 1842, the American squadron, under Commodore A. Jones, was lying at Callao, Peru. I was on board the frigate "United States." The sloop of war "Cyane," Captain Stringham, was near by. Cob Jones was on the "United States," also Captain Armstrong, First Lieutenant Lardner and Surgeon Maxwell, who recently died in San Francisco. There was also a British squadron in the harbor of Callao, of which I think the "Vanguard" was the admiral's ship. It was understood among the ship's company that we were to sail soon, was everything was in readiness for departure at short notice, but to what point we were destined nobody knew.  It seemed to be the opinion, and was generally understood, that our sailing depended upon the movements of the British fleet, which was very closely watched by our vessels. One evening there was a ball given on the admiral's ship, at which the officers of our vessels were present, and on that occasion they learned that the English were to sail the next morning, but their destination was a secret. By this our own movements were guided; for early the next morning we were under way, bound for Monterey, California. During the whole passage, the ship's company was exercised in practicing the guns and apparently preparing for something extraordinary. It leaked out in a few days that the commodore's instructions were to keep watch of the British fleet, and, if anything should occur which looked suspicious, he was to get ahead, and take possession of Monterey. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When we reached the bay of Monterey, the "Cyane" and the "United States" came to anchor opposite the fort, and the same afternoon the commodore sent a message ashore to the alcalde or governor to surrender the place. The answer was returned that he was not in town. The ships' crews were at quarters on board all night. I was a boy of sixteen at that time--a powder boy, stationed in what was called the "slaughter house," just abreast of the main mast. I remember the remark made by the old salts on the night we were lying there at our moorings, looking up at lights in the fort and seeing men with lanterns running around here and there. The sailors surmised that any moment the guns of the fort might open fire upon us, and if they had done so, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The next morning at nine o'clock, the officers, marines and sailors were landed, and marching up to the fort, took possession of it, hoisted the American flag, and, to my recollection, retained possession about twenty-four hours. But there seemed to have been a mistake as to the intention of the English, for the fleet did not make its appearance at Monterey. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We gave the place up, and returned to Callao; there learned that Commodore Jones had been ordered home, and that Commodore Dallas was on his way out to relieve him. (This was only hearsay.) Our cruise of three years not being more than half finished, Commodore Jones wished to complete it and go home on his ship, and so kept out of the way of Dallas. We left Callao and sailed for the Sandwich Islands. After our visit there, we went to all the groups of islands in the Pacific Ocean. When the time of the cruise was up, we went to Valparaiso. Meanwhile, after we left Callao, Commodore Dallas, on board the United States frigate "Congress," followed us around from one place to another, but not overtaking us; for he would arrive at a place just after we had left; and so, by dodging the "Congress" in this way, Commodore Jones completed his cruise and took the "old wagon," as the frigate "United States" was called, around to the Atlantic side, home. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I understand that an official investigation of the commodore's action at Monterey took place, which resulted in exonerating Commodore Jones from blame for his action in the matter, and that he was presented with a gold-hilted sword for the vigilance which he had displayed in this affair. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Culverwell's contribution is made use of, it being an accurate statement, by an eye-witness, of the events detailed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While I was at Santa Barbara with the "Don Quixote" about the latter part of September, 1842, the "J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana," Captain Snook, was there also. He departed a few days before we did and proceeded up the coast to Monterey, trading along as usual. His vessel left the port of Monterey sometime in October. As she was beating out of that bay they saw two war vessels approaching from the south, and according to the usual custom raised the Mexican flag, she being a Mexican bark; and the two vessels approaching raised the English flag. When they got pretty near, a shot was fired from one of them across the bow of the "J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana" for that vessel to stop, which demand she complied with. Shortly after, she was hailed with an order to throw her foreyards back, which she did, and waited quietly not knowing what was the matter, until a boat put off from one of the other vessels and came alongside. The boat contained a lieutenant, midshipman, the ordinary boat's crew, and eight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>When the "J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana" left Santa Barbara, Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Estudillo was on board, with his daughter, whom he had left with her aunt when quite young at San Diego, where she had since lived. He had not seen her for ten years, and was now taking her to their home at San Leandro. When the vessel was captured as above described, in going out of Monterey, this young lady and also Mrs. Snook, the captain's wife, became prisoners of war. I learned from the former, who afterward became my wife, the facts in regard to what transpired on the vessel. The two ladies being in their state-rooms unaware of what had transpired, Captain Snook went to his wife's room and told her that they were prisoners; whereupon that lady hastened to Miss Estudillo's room and informed her, in tears, that they had been captured. The officer in command told Captain Snook that his presence was required on board the frigate "United States," and that his orders from the commodore were that no one should go ashore; that all on board were prisoners of war, ladies included. Captain Snook then had an interview with the commodore, and coming aboard his own vessel, he found his wife very much agitated and frightened. She presently prevailed upon the captain to return and request permission of the commodore for herself and Miss Estudillo to be put ashore. The request was granted, and the next morning early the two ladies were landed. During the night Captain Snook had the oars of the boats muffled, and quietly landed nearly the whole cargo of the vessel, in order to save it for the owner, unknown, of course, to the American vessels of war. Early in the morning an officer from the "United States" came on board and took an inventory of what remained of the cargo, which was very little. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Soon after the vessels had anchored at Monterey, Commodore Jones sent an officer on shore to demand the surrender of the town. The authorities at Monterey had noticed the two vessels coming in under the English flag, which was presently replaced by the American, and also the return of the "J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana" with them, and their suspicions were aroused. They supposed that war had been declared between the United States and Mexico, and thought the vessels had probably come to take the town. Upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Commodore Jones' force marched through the streets, and a manifesto was read at intervals declaring that as war existed between the United States and Mexico, he, as commander of all the American forces on the Pacific and representing the government of the United States in that quarter, had been ordered to take possession of the department of California; and in doing so, his purpose was not to injure the peaceable inhabitants of the department; that he would give them every assurance that they should be protected in their lives and property; and moreover, the laws of Mexico, under which they had lived, should continue in force; and those officials who might wish to continue in their positions and administer the laws honestly and justly, were at liberty to do so. On reaching the government headquarters the formal surrender took place, and the United States flag was raised. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Thomas Oliver Larkin and other prominent Americans at Monterey had received from Mexico newspapers and letters giving much later intelligence than Commodore Jones had received at Callao before his departure from that port, which showed that up to the time of their issue no war existed between the two countries. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>After the town had been taken possession of, Commodore Jones examined these letters and papers giving the latest intelligence, and, on doing so, became convinced that war had not been declared, and saw that his action in the premises had been, to say the least, premature. Accordingly, he determined to surrender the place to the authorities of the department and leave them in possession, as before. He therefore sent an officer to the comandante, Don Mariano Silva, to say he was satisfied from the facts he had collected from Thomas O. Larkin and other American residents at Monterey that he ought to surrender the place to the Mexican authorities, and would formally do so on the following day at a certain hour. The next morning the troops were drawn up in front of the government headquarters and at the fort. At a signal, the American flag was hauled down and the Mexican flag raised at both points. A salute was then fired from the two vessels in honor of the Mexican flag, and this was responded to by a salute from the fort. All the courtesies due from one nation to another were shown; and the town of Monterey was fully restored to the possession and power of its former possessors, twenty-four hours after it was taken from them. The commodore and officers, some twelve or fifteen, in full uniform, then called on the government officers, to pay their respects; and the war was at an end.  In return, the officials called on the commodore and his officers on the flag-ship, and were warmly welcomed, entertained, and honored with a salute befitting their rank. The Mexican bark was also released and permitted to go on her business unmolested. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About four or five days after these exciting events I reached Monterey on the "Don Quixote." Shortly after, Captain Paty and myself called on Commodore Jones on board his vessel, and were immediately made to feel at ease in his company. He impressed us as a man of decided ability, and withal social and genial. We listened with great interest and admiration to his account of his movements at Monterey and his reasons therefor, which he gave us in full. He said he had been instructed by the government to keep a close watch upon the movements of the British squadron in the Pacific, and on learning at Callao that their vessels were about to leave, though he did not know for what destination, thinking the objective point might be Monterey, he started a little in advance. He reached that place without seeing them. Believing that the war which seemed imminent between the United States and Mexico had already commenced, he took possession of the place, being determined to anticipate the British in case they had any design of doing the same thing. </P>
025.sgm:<P>As he proceeded in his narrative, he warmed up with enthusiasm, and declared what he had done was in perfect good faith. Although he had no positive instructions to take Monterey, what he had done was in accordance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The commodore went on to say that he was very favorably impressed with California; that this was his first visit, but he was familiar with it from reading and other information he had gathered about it; that he liked the climate and the appearance of the country, and that it was destined to be of great importance, and that it must belong to the United States. He dwelt at length upon the importance of our government getting possession of it, and not letting the British do so in advance of us. He said there was no other nation to fear in this connection, and that he and all his predecessors here had been charged to be always on the watch for the British fleet in these waters, and that doubtless his successors would be likewise instructed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The commodore in his conversation with us expressed a considerable degree of pride at having been the first to raise the American flag on the soil of California, and seemed to regard this movement, although so briefly terminated, as having given us the first right in the future, and to have established a priority of claim on the part of the United States to the possession of the country when it should pass from the control of Mexico. </P>
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025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[TEXT OF LETTERS ON OPPOSITE PAGE]</P>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CONTEMPORARY LETTERS FROM R. SEMPLE AND THOMAS O. LARKIN TO DAVIS  <HI REND="italics">These hitherto unpublished documents reveal the prominent position William Heath Davis held among the leading American actors in the California drama of</HI>
025.sgm: 1846-47.  <HI REND="italics">It will be noted that only the beginning and the end of the Larkin letter is reproduced</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV  <HI REND="italics">A Lot About Thomas Ap Catesby Jones, U. S. N</HI>
025.sgm:<P>WE remained in the harbor of Monterey with the "Don Quixote" about a week, and made frequent visits to the flag-ship, and had many pleasant interviews with the commodore and his officers.  It was years since I had heard any good music, and we enjoyed hearing the fine band play at sunset on the quarter-deck of the frigate. Captain Paty and myself sent a little present of fine California wine to the commodore and Captain Armstrong, which we had procured from the vineyard of Don Luis Vignes at Los Angeles. It was highly appreciated by the recipients. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While we were at Monterey, an elegant entertainment was given by Thomas Oliver Larkin and other American residents, at the government house, to the commodore and the officers of the vessels. Captain Paty and myself were among the guests. The music, dancing and feasting lasted till a late hour. The commodore had sent messages to Governor Alvarado at his rancho to come in and see him; that he was a gentleman Whose acquaintance he was desirous of making; that he would be most happy to entertain him aboard his vessel. Alvarado replied courteously, declining the invitation, saying that while he was still governor of California, he might, by such a visit, in some way compromise himself, or the commodore in his subsequent intercourse with Micheltorena, the newly appointed governor, who was at Los Angeles on his way to the seat of government; and said that he referred all matters concerning the recent taking of Monterey to him. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore Jones was much respected by his officers and also very popular with them. During my visits to the vessel, I got the impression from what I heard that Commodore Jones was especially selected for service in the Pacific Ocean to watch and counteract any movements that might be made toward the acquirement of California by any government, other than our own; not only because of his superiority as a naval commander, but on account of his intelligence, sagacity, diplomatic talent and courage; these qualities rendering him peculiarly fitted for an undertaking requiring delicacy and tact in its management. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>Had Alvarado known of the coming of Jones beforehand, he would have made preparations to defend Monterey and sink some or all of the fleet, by firing from the castle; as was done on a former occasion, in 1818, when two insurgent vessels, manned by Spaniards from South America, without any government authority came into the harbor of Monterey with the intention of capturing the town; and one of them, the "Negra," was sunk by guns fired from the fort. As she was going down, those on board made signs and shouted to those on shore to have mercy on them, and stop firing. Captain Gomez, commanding the artillery, ordered the firing to cease. The men from the sinking vessel, and those from the other one also, then all came ashore in their boats; and instead of being grateful for the kindness shown them in sparing their lives, they marched up with their arms, overpowered the governor and his forces and took possession of the town. The governor, Don Pablo Vicente de Sola, with the other officers of the government and the garrison and the families living in that vicinity, had to take flight into the country. The enemy burned the town and the garrison buildings, and then went away. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We departed from Monterey in the "Don Quixote," leaving the two United States vessels, and proceeded to Yerba Buena. During the stay of the "Don Quixote," lasting several weeks, Commodore Jones arrived in the sloop-of-war "Cyane," which was made flag-ship before leaving Monterey, the frigate "United States" having been sent to Honolulu for naval stores, that place being the depot for provisions, etc., of the Pacific squadron. She made the trip from Monterey to Honolulu and back in twenty-nine days, the quickest ever known at that time, and I don't think it has been beaten since by any sailing vessel. This included four days stopping at Honolulu to take in stores. Captain Eliab Grimes was on board of her on her voyage out from Monterey as the guest of Captain Armstrong. She made the run to Honolulu in ten days. Captain Grimes said she might have performed it in eight days, but it was always their habit to shorten sail at evening and proceed under less canvas during the night. He tried to persuade them to keep on full sail during the night, as well as the day, but Captain Armstrong could not be induced to alter the custom; so the voyage was longer than it otherwise need have been. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The "Cyane" lay at Saucelito during her stay here, and the commodore visited Yerba Buena. I was very busy arranging for my business and saw but little of him at that time. Spear saw him frequently, and both he and Richardson spoke in high terms of the commodore as a well-informed man. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In January, 1843, Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Estudillo, accompanied by his wife and his daughters, Do&ntilde;a Concepcion and Do&ntilde;a Maria Jesus (the latter of whom a few months before had been captured at Monterey by Commodore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>On this occasion the commodore showed great attention and politeness to Don Jos&eacute;, and was exceedingly affable to the ladies, doing everything in his power to make their visit agreeable, and setting before them a very handsome dinner. During the dinner the commodore carved with difficulty, one of his hands being distorted from a wound received during an engagement between the vessel on which he was a midshipman and a vessel of the enemy, during the war of 1812 with England. He excused himself for his want of skill in carving, explaining the cause of the difficulty. A number of the officers on board the "Cyane" spoke the Spanish language fluently, which added to the interest of the festivity. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During the stay of the vessel in the bay the commodore's habit was to go on shore in the morning and hunt for small game, sport he greatly enjoyed. He would frequently lunch with Captain Richardson on shore, and there he met the Estudillo family. The "Cyane" left here and went down to Monterey about the time the "United States" was expected back. On the arrival there of the latter vessel she was made the flag-ship again, and both ships left for San Pedro. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI  <HI REND="italics">Something Concerning Don Luis Vignes</HI>
025.sgm:<P>COMMODORE JONES called on Micheltorena at Los Angeles, with his suite of officers, in full uniform, and the commodore and the new governor had a long conference in regard to the taking of Monterey, lasting several days. The explanations of the former were politely received by the latter and a cordial understanding arrived at between the two. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During his stay there a banquet was given to Commodore Jones and his officers by Micheltorena, winding up with a grand ball. Mr. Henry Mellus was present, and has informed me it was a brilliant affair. All the wealth and beauty of Los Angeles and surrounding country were present. The commodore and his officers expressed themselves as highly delighted. They also spoke flatteringly of Los Angeles and its neighborhood, calling it the Eden of the earth. They were charmed with the vineyards and orchards, with the orange groves, seeing the golden fruit hanging on the trees in the month of January. The most extensive cultivator at that time (1843) was Louis Vignes, who invited them to his place and entertained them. They were delighted with his California wines, of different vintages, some as much as eight or ten years old, of fine quality. They were interested in going through his cellars, where the wines of different years were stored in large quantities in pipes. Vignes presented the commodore and the officers with several barrels of this choice wine, which were gratefully accepted. He remarked that he desired them to preserve some of it to take to Washington to give to the President of the United States, that he might know what excellent wine was produced in California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Luis, as the Californians called him, was a Frenchman, who came to Monterey in the bark "Louisa" with me in 1831 from Boston, touching at Honolulu and Sitka. From Monterey he went to San Pedro, shortly afterward established himself at Los Angeles, and before long had the largest vineyard in California. At that early day he imported cuttings of different varieties of grapes, in small quantities, which were put up with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>In 1842, nine years afterward, I again called to see him. He asked me if I remembered what he had said to me when I was last there, about the California wine, its importance and value, and remarked that he would now prove to me that his predictions were correct, and would show me what he could do for California. He then took me and a friend who was with me into his cellar and showed us the different vintages stored there, and brought out several bottles of his old wine, which were tested and commended. He said he had written home to France representing the advantages of California for wine making, telling them that he believed the day would come when California would rival "Ia belle France" in wine producing of all varieties, not only in quantity, but in quality, not U: excepting champagne; and that he had also induced several of hi&amp; relations and a number of his more intelligent countrymen to come to California to settle near Los Angeles, and engage in the business. He also manufactured aguardiente in considerable quantities, as did other wine producers. This liquor was considered by the old settlers as a superior article when three or four years old. Beyond that, it still further improved in quality, being of a finer flavor, entirely pure, and was regarded as a wholesome drink. It was made from the old Mission grapes. When first produced it was clear and colorless, like gin or alcohol, but gradually assumed a slight tint with age, and when six, eight or ten years old, became of fine amber color, and was then a rich, oily liquor, very palatable. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The merchants bought the aguardiente and also the wines, in considerable lots, directly from the vineyards, and sold it to their customers at Monterey, Yerba Buena, and other points along the coast. At that time I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Don Luis was truly one of the most enlightened pioneers of the coast. In May, 1852, I saw him again for the last time, visiting him at his home, accompanied by John H. Saunders, who recently died at San Rafael. Vignes was then quite old, but his intellect was unimpaired. The Don was full of history of wine matters, and kept up a constant stream of conversation, proud of his success, and overflowing with brilliant anticipations of the future of this interest in which he was so wrapped up, as bearing upon the prosperity of the state and its commercial importance. His vineyard was entered by an immense gate, just outside of which there was a splendid sycamore tree of great age. From this circumstance Vignes was known as Don Luis del Aliso, <HI REND="italics">aliso</HI>
025.sgm:<P>I am sure that all of the residents of California who were living here at the time of Don Luis will endorse what I have said in regard to him and his influence upon the prosperity of the country. It is to be hoped that historians will do justice to his character, his labors and foresight. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII  <HI REND="italics">Early American Settlers in California</HI>
025.sgm:<P>SOME of the foreigners at Santa Barbara dated their residence at that place back to 1830 and 1831. Among them were William G. Dana, a nephew of my father; Daniel Hill, Francis Branch and A. B. Thompson, who were all natives of Massachusetts. They were engaged in merchandising and stock-raising. Isaac Sparks and George Nidever were natives of Kentucky, and otter-haters by profession. Lewis T. Burton was also an otter-hunter, who left an only son a considerable fortune in land. Michael Burke was a native of Ireland, and Robert Elwell was a native of Boston. The latter was a cornmeal character, with a peculiar sharp countenance, a prominent nose, and a queer look. He had considerable native wit, and made fun for others. He himself was made fun of by the captains, supercargoes and merchants Who came to the place; and was altogether of use as a clown. He married a daughter of Don Juan Sanchez, a prominent ranchero. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After 1833, Dr. Nicholas A. Den, a native of Ireland, came to Santa Barbara and practiced his profession there. He married a daughter of Daniel Hill, who had married into the Ortega family. Dr. Den was as homely a man as I ever saw. His wife, still living, (1887) preserves her beauty. Her hair was remarkable in its color of <HI REND="italics">melchocha</HI>
025.sgm:<P>At Santa Barbara also was Captain Thomas W. Robbins, formerly a shipmaster, a Boston man, married to a daughter of Don Carlos Carrillo. When I was there in 1842 he kept a store of general merchandise, and which was a kind of headquarters for the captains and supercargoes of vessels lying in port. He was generous and liked by everybody. At his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Captain Paty and myself were dining with him in 1842, and he told us of an old Indian cook who had been with him many years, and had been carefully instructed, as indeed, his good dinners testified. He said that although the man was faithful and quiet, and attended well to his duties, he was obliged about every six months to give him a tremendous whipping; only because at those times the Indian came and begged his master to give him a good thrashing, saying it was necessary, to make him a good cook for the next six months. Robbins felt forced to comply, much against his will, for he was a kind-hearted man and treated his servants well; but the Indian assured him it must be done, otherwise he would become lazy and negligent. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Robbins had before mentioned this several times, and on this occasion, in order to fortify his statement, while we were busy with our dinner and talking and laughing with the wife of our host and their beautiful children, he whispered to a servant in the dining-room to call the old Indian. Presently, in he came, a stalwart man, weighing probably 200 pounds, strong and well preserved, with rather a pleasing cast of countenance, and polite in his manners, the result of his good training in the family. Captain Robbins addressed him in Spanish, saying, "I have said to my guests that I have had to whip you soundly, against my will, about once in six months, because you desired it and persisted in having it done, to make you a good cook for the next half year. Is it so?" The old Indian looked sharply at Captain Paty and myself and answered, " <HI REND="italics">Es verdad, se&ntilde;ores</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In my father-in-law's family at San Leandro there was an Indian by the name of Juan Jos&eacute;, now (1887) seventy years of age, well preserved and strong, who was taken when a child, reared and always retained by them. He was usually obedient and tractable, but occasionally would become lazy and insolent, when it was found necessary to give him a good whipping; which was done (not by his own request, however); whereupon he became civil and obedient and attended faithfully to his duties. The effect of this management has always been apparent; goodness, as it were, being whipped into him. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I knew Don Teodoro Arrellanes in Santa Barbara. He was a thorough ranchero. He was then perhaps fifty-five years of age, six feet in height, very straight, weighing 220 pounds; was genial and polite; had a numerous family, and owned extensive tracts of land, comprising many leagues; among them the Rancho Guadalupe, near Santa Maria, with as many as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:20,000 cattle and thousands of horses. Among the rancheros he was looked upon as a kind of chief in that portion of country, by reason of his good judgment and knowledge of matters pertaining to ranchos. On one occasion I said to him: "Don Teodoro, how is it you have accumulated so much wealth--such an immense number of cattle and horses?" He smilingly answered: "The labor is to get the first 2000, and after that they increase very fast, under ordinary care and management. They require a great deal of care and thought, to make the best rodeo cattle and to prevent them from running entirely wild, and to make the horses useful for their purpose." Sometimes cattle escaped from the ranchos to the mountains, forgot their former training, and become entirely wild; when vaqueros would go out into the mountains, lasso them, and bring them, tied to the <HI REND="italics">cabestros</HI>
025.sgm:<P>John J. Warner, a native of Connecticut, came to California in 1831. He owned the Rancho Agua Caliente in San Diego county, containing eleven leagues. He resided there and also at Los Angeles; was somewhat a literary man, and he spoke Spanish fluently. He has represented Los Angeles and San Diego counties in the State Legislature. The Californians valued his friendship, and also his good counsel whenever they were in need of advice. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The intermarriage of the foreigners in early times with the Californians produced a fine race of children, who partook of the characteristics of both parents. The stock, as usual, was improved by the mingling of the different nationalities. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII  <HI REND="italics">Alvarado Ousts Governor Micheltorena</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE revolution against Micheltorena by Alvarado and Castro, in 1844, was not on account of bad government or misrule by Micheltorena, or from a dislike of him by the responsible men of the country. The wealthy ranch-owners and others were not in favor of revolution. They desired peace, naturally, as they had everything to lose by conflict and nothing to gain. It originated as much from the restless nature of Alvarado and his ambition to rule, as anything else. Having when young been connected with public affairs, and afterward governor of the department, he could not rest quietly and see the government administered by anybody else. </P>
025.sgm:<P>General Castro, who had been displaced when Micheltorena came into power, was ambitious, and naturally joined with Alvarado; and the two, having been intimately connected for a long time, stirred up the people to revolution. There was also a good deal of feeling by many against the troops who came into the country with Micheltorena, especially by the residents of Monterey, where the troops were quartered; they alleging that the soldiers stole their chickens and committed other small depredations. They might have done something worse, though there is no evidence of it. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alvarado and Castro collected several hundred men about the bay of San Francisco and got them together on the Salinas plains, mounted, and armed with all kinds of weapons such as they could pick up, most of their arms being of no great efficiency. They had also a few old cannons. At this place they were met by Micheltorena and his force from Monterey, and a skirmish ensued. The insurgents retreated to the Laguna San Antonio, followed by Micheltorena. They remained there several days, during which some firing and maneuvering took place; but nobody was killed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>From that point, Alvarado and Castro with their troops retreated, and commenced a march south for the purpose of visiting the different <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Alvarado had great power of speech and argument. He was eloquent in behalf of his movement, and though the people generally disliked it, he induced some of the rancheros to join him. Many of the younger men were taken against their will as recruits for his army. He also secured a large number of horses, some of which were given to him voluntarily, and others were taken by force. </P>
025.sgm: after <HI REND="italics">caponera</HI>
025.sgm:, day after day, brought to the military headquarters, at the town plaza, from the neighboring ranchos. Alvarado and Castro were busy in receiving recruits, distributing them and the horses to the different commands, and reorganizing the forces for the battle which was expected to take place. The work continued actively for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Ever since the conflict between Carrillo and Alvarado in 1838, and even prior to that time, there had existed a jealousy between the two sections of the country north and south, the northern portion of the people, say from San Luis Obispo north, being the Alvarado party; and the southern portion, from Santa Barbara south, the Carrillo and Pico party. The leaders in the north were Alvarado and General Jos&eacute; Castro, but the master spirit was Alvarado. In the south the leaders were Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Carrillo and his brother Don Carlos, and the brothers Pico. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In this outbreak, General Vallejo was considered non-committal, not taking active part, preferring to attend to his own affairs. Alvarado, thus engaged, feared the influence of Jos&eacute; Antonio Carrillo. After he had won over the Pico brothers, he approached him in the same way he had approached them, but found in him, as he had anticipated, more confirmed and strenuous opposition to his plans. Carrillo was superior to the Pico brothers in intellect, but Alvarado was superior to them all. He finally prevailed upon Don Jos&eacute; Antonio to give him some assistance. Jos&eacute; Antonio's ambition originally, in the revolution of 1838, was to make his brother Don Carlos governor; to prove to Alvarado and to his countrymen, as I frequently heard him say, that he himself was the brains of the department. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After the skirmish near Salinas, Micheltorena was joined by Captain Sutter, with fifty or sixty riflemen, from the Sacramento valley, among them Dr. John Marsh, one of the first comers, P. B. Reading, and other early settlers, who probably had no particular preference one side or the other in the revolution. Their aim and desire was to secure large grants of land, in addition to what they already possessed, and which they would have undoubtedly obtained as a reward for military services in defending the country had Micheltorena remained in power. Sutter kept also in the Sacramento valley 300 Indian riflemen, whom he had trained as soldiers, for his own defense. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Micheltorena followed Alvarado southward; but as the main portion of his troops was infantry, and his cannons had to be transported, his progress was necessarily slow. When Alvarado and his force left Los Angeles to meet Micheltorena, several of the American residents and other foreigners who had joined his army accompanied him; among them Alexander Bell, a leading merchant. He requested me to take charge of his store during his absence, and in case he should meet the fate of a soldier I should turn everything over to his widow. In leaving, he gave me the key of his safe, and said it contained considerable money. In those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>In January, 1845, the two armies came together in the valley of San Fernando, one of the most beautiful portions of Los Angeles county. Alvarado had seven or eight hundred men, well mounted but poorly armed. About nine o'clock one clear morning, a day or two after the departure of the troops, the first cannonading gas heard in Los Angeles, and we knew that the battle had commenced. Directly to the north was a high hill. As soon as the firing was heard, all the people remaining in the town--men, women and children, ran to the top of this hill. As the wind was blowing from the north, the firing was distinctly heard, five leagues away on the battlefield, throughout the day. All the business places in town were closed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The scene upon the hill was a remarkable one. Women and children with crosses in their hands, kneeling and praying to the Saints for the safety and protection of their fathers, brothers, sons, husbands, lovers, cousins--that they might not be killed in the battle; indifferent to their personal appearance, tears streaming from their eyes, and their hair blown about by the wind, which had increased to quite a breeze. Don Abel Stearns, myself and others tried to calm and pacify them, assuring them that there was probably no danger; somewhat against our convictions, it is true, judging from what we heard of the firing and from our knowledge of Micheltorena's disciplined force, his battery, and the rifle-men he had with him. During the day the scene on the hill continued. The night that followed was a gloomy one, caused by the lamentations of the women and children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It afterward proved that our assurances to the women were correct; for not a single person was killed in this remarkable battle, only a few horses being shot. The next day the strife ended; Micheltorena capitulated, and agreed to leave the country with his troops, arms and followers.  </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX  <HI REND="italics">More About the Revolution</HI>
025.sgm:<P>ON THE day following the grand battle in San Fernando valley many of the prominent men from both armies arrived at Los Angeles, among them Captain Sutter, Dr. Marsh, Bidwell, Bell and others. Sutter and some of his friends came first to the headquarters of Don Abel Stearns, who received them kindly. They were so thickly covered with dust that one could hardly recognize them. I was glad to meet my old friend Captain Sutter, whom I had not seen for several years. That night he was the guest of Charles W. Flgge, a conspicuous German merchant of Los Angeles, who had lived at fort New Helvetia, and been connected with Sutter in business. I spent the evening there very pleasantly, talking over old times with Captain Sutter, and sipping some fine California wine of Don Luis del Aliso's vintage till a late hour in the night. </P>
025.sgm:<P>James McKinley was present at the battle as a spectator, not taking an active part. Towards the close of the day he volunteered to Alvarado and Castro to act as mediator between them and Micheltorena and endeavor to bring about an agreement of the two armies. He was encouraged to do so; and upon his representations the conflict was terminated.  During the settlement of the terms, before the capitulation, the insurgent Californians urged upon Micheltorena, as one of the conditions, that General Vallejo should be deposed as commander-in-chief, and General Castro appointed in his place. This was agreed to; and from that time General Castro occupied that position. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The capitulation of Micheltorena was not compulsory, inasmuch as his force of skilled and disciplined soldiers, and their arms, equipments of every kind, and supply of ammunition, were altogether superior to those of Alvarado; but it was the result wholly of Micheltorena's good feeling toward the people of California, and which led him to refrain from injuring them, as he might easily have done, and to a serious extent. From my knowledge of him and my personal acquaintance with him, I regarded him as a humane man. The forbearance he showed on this occasion in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Had Micheltorena conquered the Californians in this conflict, and killed a number, it might have added to his military reputation, but it would have made him very unpopular With the people and embittered them against him, especially the families of those killed, and their friends. Thereafter his position as governor would not have been a pleasant or an easy one, for he would have been subjected to constant harassment from people opposed to him; who would have considered that they had been greatly injured at his hands, and would finally have driven him away. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A few days after the battle, Micheltorena moved his forces to Palo Verde, about four miles from San Pedro, where our vessel, the "Don Quixote," then lay. Don Pio Pico became provisional governor of the department, after the capitulation, by virtue of his boa the con of president of the junta departmental, and immediately entered into negotiations with Captain Paty and myself to charter the "Don Quixote" to convey Micheltorena and his forces to Monterey, and thence to San Blas, taking in the remainder of the troops at Monterey. After several day's conference we came to an agreement. Pico chartered the vessel for that purpose for $11,000. While these negotiations were pending, Captain Paty and myself called upon Micheltorena a number of times with reference to the transportation of the troops, the room required for their accommodation, and other details. In about two weeks after the agreement was made the vessel was ready to receive the troops, and they embarked upon her. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We had a pleasant trip of seven and a half days to Monterey. Micheltorena talked freely about the late battle. He said he was a friend of the Californians; that he had been sent here to protect and not to destroy them; that he thought they were a brave people, but they were ill prepared for a battle-field; their cannons were of little account, their small arms still worse, and they could not procure others from any source, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Micheltorena stood nearly six feet in height, was straight, of handsome appearance, with a military air and bearing. He spoke the French language correctly and fluently, and his own language so finely that it was a pleasure to listen to him. He was a good diplomatist, as well as a good general, and was liked by the solid men of the department. He tried to serve the people well and to please them. Probably no trouble would have arisen had there been no Alvarado in the department, always restless, and ambitious to rule again, and always interfering with the rightful governor, and exciting other ex-officials to create an agitation, so they might be restored to their former positions, under a new administration. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alvarado and his party tried to arouse the sympathies of the rancheros, with whom Micheltorena was popular, and who loved order and peace, by alleging grievances suffered by the people under Micheltorena rule, little by little instilling dissatisfaction into the people's mind, as pretexts for revolt against the government. The grievances were mainly imaginary, for, as before remarked, the only tangible thing that could be complained of was the stealing of some chickens by soldiers, which certainly was rather a slender basis for rebellion. Of course Alvarado must offer some reasonable excuse. Although his own ambition was doubtless the motive and propelling force in the movement, it would not have been politic for him to admit this; nor would he have met with aid and encouragement on this ground. He therefore made use of some trivial complaints against the Mexican soldiers, enlarging upon and exaggerating alleged offences, until the Mexicans were made to appear in the eyes of the people as a terrible set of scoundrels, whose presence was highly dangerous to the country, and whom it was necessary, for the protection of the lives and property of the people, to get rid of. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This is my opinion of the matter, though I am aware that it differs from that of a few others. It is based upon my own observation and that of many others and my knowledge of Alvarado and his supporters. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During the voyage to Monterey I observed the soldiers closely. Some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:of them were rather hard-looking, but the main body of them was quite the contrary, and whenever I passed near any of them they politely raised their hats, and saluted me with " <HI REND="italics">Buenos dias</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter spoke of Micheltorena as a soldier and gentleman of high character, and had great respect for him. He referred to his conduct and treatment of the Californians, and thought they were fortunate to be opposed by so kind-hearted and humane a commander as Micheltorena. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At Monterey the "Don Quixote" received the portion of the army, one-quarter of his entire force of 600, which was stationed there during the campaign, and the families of the officers, as well as Mrs. General Micheltorena. She was a lady of refinement, and was much beloved by the California ladies. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The vessel sailed for San Blas, after stopping a week at Monterey. Captain Paty spoke in praise of the conduct of all on board, and particularly of his respect and liking for Mrs. Micheltorena. The governor said to Paty that he regretted that the captain was not amongst the many grantees to whom he had given land during his administration; and would have been glad to have known that the captain was provided for in this way. Expressing a partiality for California, he said it was only a question of time when the department would become great and wealthy. He doubted the ability of his own government to keep California as a part of the domain of Mexico, on account of its geographical position; its great distance from the capital; the difficulty and expense of transporting troops so far, and maintaining them for its defense, together with the fact that the government had no navy; that the department in its defenseless condition was a constant source of trouble and anxiety to Mexico, and he thought it was inevitably destined to pass out of her control. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter and a number of men under his command in the battle with Alvarado were granted large tracts of land in the Sacramento valley by Micheltorena; among them Bidwell, Job Dye, Thomes, Toomes, Reading, Knight and Dr. John Marsh (the latter receiving a grant from Alvarado). After Micheltorena went away, Alvarado was made collector of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Alvarado had shown his ambitious spirit in 1836, and desire to rule, by creating, for imaginary grievances, a revolution against Governor Chico, who had been sent here by the supreme government of Mexico to take charge of department affairs and had administered the office of governor for a year or two. He succeeded in his designs, and sent Chico out of the country. As usual on such occasions, no blood was shed. Alvarado so directed the movements of his generals and maneuvered with so much tact that he succeeded in his efforts, without sacrificing any lives. Strange to say, upon this success of Alvarado in revolutionizing the government, instead of an army being sent from Mexico by that government to capture him and take him there as a rebel against his country, he received from President Bustamente an appointment as governor of California, upon his representing the matter in a letter of marked ability to that dignitary. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Micheltorena first arrived in the department in 1842, with his troops from Mexico, he landed at San Diego, where he was welcomed by the people from all the surrounding country. He had a reception lasting several days. As he was about leaving, he was waited upon by a deputation of citizens of Los Angeles who brought him an invitation from the prefect, Don Santiago Argello, brother of ex-Governor Argello, to attend the celebration of the anniversary of the Independence of Mexico at this place on the sixteenth of September. He accepted the invitation and subsequently participated in the exercises of the day. On leaving San Diego to proceed north, he was accompanied by a private party, going in the same direction, consisting of Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Estudillo, and his daughter; who after became my wife; and his brother and family. The journey occupied several days. The troops seemed well disciplined and orderly, and were apparently well bred men, quiet, polite and respectful in behavior. On reaching the Mission of San Juan Capistrano, the general halted With his forces for a rest of a day or two, during which he gave a grand outdoor entertainment, or picnic, in a beautiful valley back of the Mission, to which all the people of the neighborhood were invited. He prevailed upon the Estudillo party to stop and participate in the festivities. Among other diversions for the entertainment of the guests, the troops were drawn up in military order and went through their evolutions, the band played, and dancing was enjoyed. From there they continued on to Los Angeles, where the general was received with all the honors becoming his position and rank. The town was alive with enthusiasm. The day of the anniversary was a gala day. Horse racing and bull-fighting were a part of the performance. The Californians were dressed in their most costly habiliments, and their horses were superbly equipped. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX  <HI REND="italics">General M. G. Vallejo's Lands and Cattle</HI>
025.sgm:<P>GENERAL Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo had as many as 25,000 head of cattle on his two ranchos. One of these ranchos was called the Petaluma, and the other the Temblec, between Sonoma and Petaluma. At one time he owned another rancho at Santa Rosa which afterward became the property of Do&ntilde;a Maria Ygnacia Lopez de Carrillo. He had besides about 2,000 head of horses and about 24,000 head of sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The General maintained very friendly relations with the Indians, toward whom he always acted in a most humane manner. His right-hand ally, in all his intercourse with the neighboring tribes, was the high chief, Francisco Solano, who stood over six feet and who possessed a very good intellect. This chief had received some education from the Mission padres and appreciated the advantages of civilization. He was companionable and pleasant in his manner and deportment, and was much respected by every one who knew him. At his death he was buried on a small island in Petaluma Creek. The burial took place with all the honors under the direction of another chief named Camilo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I knew this chief, who was a fine, intelligent and shrewd man. He often came over to San Francisco to purchase goods from Nathan Spear, whose agent I then was. He owned 600 cattle, numerous horses and sheep, and was quite a noted breeder. He was punctual in meeting his obligations, and owing to this and to his affability and intelligence, was highly esteemed by us all. He could read and write, and keep accounts, having been educated by the old missionaries. Camilo was the grantee of a rancho of about two leagues of land, known as "Olompali," bordering on the Bay of San Francisco between the ranchos Petaluma and Novato. He was likewise a wheat raiser, and sold his crops to the Russians. </P>
025.sgm:<P>As a proof of General Vallejo's clearheadedness I will state that he always treated both Solano and camilo with high consideration, because it was through these men that he conquered and controlled the numerous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The General was a large grower of wheat at his hacienda, Petaluma. He employed several hundred men to plow, sow and harrow the vast fields he had under cultivation. These laborers were trained in the art of plowing and sowing at the Missions with the Padres as instructors. The General also employed uncivilized Indians, known as "gentiles," as assistant plowmen and harvesters. Plowing the soil was done wholly by oxen, a pair to a plow. Thus the primitive cultivator penetrated the earth but a few inches. The soil being virgin and rich in quality, however, produced fabulous crops. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The measurement of the production of a wheat field was by the quantity of seed sown. The California "fanega" weighed one hundred and thirty-three pounds. It has been known that crops of wheat raised on the lands of the Mission of San Jos&eacute; returned one hundred fanegas for every fanega sown. Thus was the yield estimated. Acres were not known in early California among the "labradores" who tilled the ground. Their smallest land measurement was the square league. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The General was very fond of superintending the work as it progressed. Among the crops he planted were wheat, barley, oats, beans, peas, garvanzo and lanteja. He raised great quanities of these articles of food on his haciendas. I have watched his management as a farmer with interest, particularly at harvest time, and he always appeared to take pride in the title of "labrador." Vallejo found a market for his wheat with the Russians who came regularly every year with two, and sometimes four, vessels to transport to Alaska their purchases from Vallejo; Salvador, his brother; Nicolas Higuera; Cayetano Juarez; the Missions of San Jos&eacute; and Santa Clara and others, for the support of their settlements throughout that vast territory. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The General's home consumption of wheat was considerable; it was made into flour for the maintenance of his soldiers at Sonoma, and to feed the workers at his several haciendas. At his principal rancho, Petaluma, he had to house and feed six hundred vaqueros and laborers. The grand old structure of two stories in height with piazzas, and court yard in the rear stood upon a commanding eminence. It was a rule generally among the haciendados to select an elevated site for the home of the family. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the Petaluma mansion the General entertained captains, supercargoes and other visitors of distinction and did it sumptuously. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nathan Spear had a grist mill which, as related elsewhere in these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Spear owned several vessels which he used in his business. These carried grain and flour to and from the different embarcaderos around the bay. Salvador Vallejo and other tillers of the soil were patronizers of the Spear grist mill which was founded at the village of Yerba Buena in the winter of 1839-40. Nathan Spear was not only an enterprising merchant originally from Boston, but a true American, who loved his country far above the temptation of a grant of eleven square leagues of the best land in the Department of California, which he could have had by denouncing his mother country to become a naturalized citizen of Mexico. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spear's mill was in full operation from the day it began grinding until 1845. This mill was considered of great benefit to California because it supplied a great part of the flour used in the Department for half a decade. Nathan Spear after many years of labor as a merchant became a sick man from heart trouble, and in 1845 moved from San Francisco to Doctor Edward T. Bale's hacienda, a grant of several leagues of land, upon a part of which the town of St. Helena is now located. Spear was an American and Bale was a Britisher. There was a mutual love between these early argonauts which lasted to the end of their existence. Bale was considered a scientific and talented man in his profession as physician and surgeon by the early men of California. I have heard Spear speak of him most highly, praising his skill. </P>
025.sgm:<P>General Vallejo had several grist mills at Petaluma of the most primitive pattern. These were run by one horse with an Indian boy by the side of the animal wielding a cow-hide whip to keep him going for the grist. Throughout the Department these one horse power grist mills were attached to each household, giving a daily Supply of flour for the hacienda's kitchen. Elsewhere in this volume I have given an account of the primitive grist mills used in California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>General Vallejo would never tolerate injustice or brutality toward the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The Nacional rancho at Soscol had about 14,000 head of cattle, and a large number of horses. These cattle used to stray to a long distance along the margin of Suisun Bay. This rancho was under the control of General Vallejo from the time he founded the military headquarters at Sonoma. He was virtually the owner of all the cattle on the north side of San Francisco Bay, which were originally reputed to be Mission or government property, but eventually he became the acknowledged proprietor of all these animals. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Including Petaluma, Temblec and another rancho, the total of cattle on all these estates reached the enormous number of fifty thousand head. This made the General the largest cattle owner in early California. Don Guadalupe, as he was generally called by his countrymen and the merchants, castrated, earmarked and branded about the first of March each year some ten thousand calves, or one-fifth of his great herds. An increase of one to every five head on the hacienda was the basis of the yearly estimate among the hacendados. This mode of counting had been tested and proven as you would the balance sheets of a commercial house. To verify the rule, they counted the cattle as they went out of the corral, before the number became too great on a hacienda. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Hacendado Vallejo during the matanza season slaughtered eight thousand steers of three years of age or over, for their hides, tallow and manteca. It was a rule among the hacendados to slaughter as a yearly income about four-fifths of the yearly increase of the herds. The "novillos" or steers averaged to each animal about six arrobas (twenty-five pounds to the arroba) of tallow and manteca; four arrobas of the former to each steer at one and one-half dollars the arroba, and two arrobas of the latter at two dollars the arroba--a total of eighty thousand dollars. Add to this sixteen thousand dollars for the hides and some notion of the General's income from only one product of his haciendas is obtained. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Petaluma was the matanza ground for the "novillos" from the other ranchos, with the exception of Soscol. The matanza steers were killed at that rancho separately from the rest. During the killing season at the home rancho, I have observed the numerous try-pots bubbling with the melted tallow and manteca, the latter being the delicate fat that lies between the hide and the ribs of the animal. Of course, the improvements and management of this extensive estate were patterned after the early Missions. Under General Vallejo's rule everything was neat, and everything was in its right place. Among these early raisers of stock enough <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The Californians were fond of frolicking and having good times out of doors in the open country of their domains. Such entertainments were called "Meriendas." These commenced in the spring of the year after the work of branding and ear-marking the calves was over, a task that signalized the hacienda's new accession of wealth, and continued to the months of Indian Summer, which Were considered the best of the year. The atmosphere then is tempered, it is soft and balmy, and you feel that you are all the time rubbing against silk of the highest finish in texture. Such is my observation of the climate of California during my many years here. I have been repeatedly a&amp;ed if the climate of the State has changed since the year 1831. Of course, my replies were always in the negative. There is no difference between the climate of old California and new California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The meats relished most on these playful excursions in the open air were from terneras or yearling heifers. The tender and nutritious morsels were broiled over a bed of coals, prepared from a branch of some ancient live oak, by means of an iron spit which an expert "asador," a servant of the household, watched over. This functionary also prepared other choice tidbits such as " <HI REND="italics">tripas de leche</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Elsewhere I have spoken of the arrest of the foreigners in California. While these arrests were being made, General Vallejo, with his staff and about seventy soldiers, all mounted on fine horses and well equipped with carbines, sabres and pistols, arrived in San Francisco from Sonoma on their way to Monterey. The General was attired in undress uniform, mounted on a spirited dapple gray, and was attended by Col. Victor Prudon; Major Jos&eacute; de los Santos Berreyesa and Lieut. L&aacute;zaro Pi&ntilde;a, who composed his staff. This body of troops was transported from Sausalito by Capt. William A. Richardson in several of his undecked barges which had been built and owned by the Missions bordering the bay long years before. </P>
025.sgm:<P>They were landed at Thompson's Cove between Clark and Buckalew Points. It was no small undertaking on the part of Richardson to ferry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>General Vallejo placed the settlement of Yerba Buena, Mission Dolores and the Presidio under martial law. Yerba Buena contained at that time about fifty inhabitants, all told; men, women and children. Mission Dolores and the Presidio housed several hundred. During his sojourn of several days, the General was visited at his headquarters, the home of Jacob P. Leese, by the dignitaries, the inhabitants, the captains and supercargoes of the vessels in port in order to pay their respects to the Commanding General of the Department. On his departure the civil authorities resumed their duties as usual. Alvarado evidently was worried and unsettled in his mind regarding the course to pursue relative to the expulsion of the Americans. He needed the presence of his uncle to consult and counsel with at this critical period of his rule as Governor of California, for Mariano G. Vallejo was always considered a most conservative man in the management of public affairs while he held office in the government. </P>
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025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GENERAL MARIANO GUADALUPE VALLEJO  <HI REND="italics">A staunch supporter of American ideas.</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI  <HI REND="italics">Vallejo's Appeal For Annexation to United States</HI>
025.sgm:<P>AT A meeting held at the home in Monterey of United States Consul Thomas O. Larkin toward the end of March 1846 of the civil and military officers of the Department of California to treat on the future of California, some of the persons present expressed their feelings in favor of independence of Mexico pure and simple; others favored a French protectorate; still others preferred English protection.</P>
025.sgm:<P>Several, among them Rafael Gonzales, Victor Prudon and Mariano G. Vallejo, favored annexation to the United States. Lieut. Col. Prudon made a warm speech in favor of the last proposition. Vallejo could not coincide in opinion with those who favored a European protectorate as he felt convinced that California could not maintain her independence if left entirely to her own resources.</P>
025.sgm:<P>Referring to the proposed plan of asking for the protection of England or France, he said that public men in Europe could not take the vivid interest in California's future that she needs. He thought it would be neither honorable nor worthy of the Californians to go to far off Europe for a master. There was no bond of sympathy between her and those nations separated from her by two broad oceans. Superadded to that was the fact that Californians were republicans, and they would undergo the utmost suffering, even death, rather than assent to become the subjects of a monarch. Ill treated as the Californians had been by the so-called republican rulers of Mexico, they had never thought of giving up their birth rights as republican citizens; they had even cherished republican equality. He for one, would certainly oppose every attempt to present to the world the sad spectacle of a free American people begging for vassalage; asking for a European crowned head to become their master. He was not afraid of Mexico, who possessed neither navy or army, nor resources to support any sufficient force to land and hold California in subjection. He then argued in favor of accepting annexation to the United States. He contradicted those who said that by annexation to the United <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Prudon having noticed that several of the persons present approved Vallejo's proposal, asked Comandante Castro to put it to a vote. General Castro did not assent, and the discussion continued. The meeting finally adjourned to reconvene at a later hour. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vallejo thought that the partisans of monarchy had it all cut and dried, and prevailed on the friends of the United States to leave Monterey. They did so, and when the hour of voting came, there was no quorum. and no definite result could be arrived at. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER  XXXII  <HI REND="italics">Californians and Their Ways</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE Californians seldom intermarried with the Indians; but they mixed With them to a certain extent; and in visiting the Missions, one Would sometimes see fine looking children belonging to the Indian women, the offspring of their association with California men. In some cases, these children of Indian women were deserted by their parents; or their mothers were of so worthless a character that the children would have suffered in their hands and been neglected. They were then adopted into California families, christened with the name of the family, reared in a proper way by them, kindly treated, employed as nurses and domestics,, and not regarded as common servants. In those days there were no foundling and orphan asylums, and the priests of the Missions felt it incumbent upon them to exercise an oversight of unfortunate children. Sometimes they called the attention of the matrons of the families to them, and thus secured their adoption. Children were also taken into families without any suggestion from the priest whatever. The Indian women of California were far better stock than those of Mexico, which accounts in a measure for their finer children. The climate may also have had an effect in the better development of Indian offspring in California, than in Mexico.</P>
025.sgm:<P>The French ship "Leon," of about 700 tons, Captain Bonnet, arrived at Saucelito in 1844, and thence took a cargo of young cattle to the Society and Marquesas Islands (which were under dominion of France) for breeding purposes--to stock the islands. There were two or three hundred head, most of them applied by Captain Richardson. They were sold at six dollars apiece, which at that time was considered a good price, the regular price for heifers being three dollars. The same vessel returned the following year for another cargo of stock cattle, which was supplied by Captain Richardson, as before.</P>
025.sgm:<P>In November, 1844, James McKinley and myself left San Diego and went overland to Santa Anita, a rancho situated a few miles north of the Mission San Gabriel, in a pretty valley about eight or nine miles easterly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Upon our visit at Reid's house, we found that they were living very happily together. They had one daughter, a beautiful girl of about eighteen, born some years before their marriage, of another English father. We were surprised and delighted with the excellence and neatness of the housekeeping of the Indian wife, which could not have been excelled. The beds which were furnished us to sleep in were exquisitely neat, with cover-lids of satin, the sheets and pillow cases trimmed with lace and highly ornamented, as with the Californians. It was one of the striking peculiarities of Californians, that the chief expense of the household of the poorer families was lavished upon the bed; and though the other furniture may have been meagre and other useful articles, such as knives and forks, scanty in supply, the bed was always excellent, and handsomely decorated; sumptuously often, with those of more means. I never knew an exception in any household. This was an evidence of good taste and refinement and that they were peers of other civilized people. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1841 a French vessel laden with a valuable cargo, consisting of silks, brandy and other costly goods, commanded and owned by Limantour (afterwards well known in California in connection with land matters), arrived on this coast, intending to come to Yerba Buena. In seeking to come into the bay of San Francisco, an inlet near Point Reyes was mistaken for the entrance to the harbor, and she went ashore. The motive for coming to Yerba Buena first, with an after design of entering the goods at the custom house in Monterey and proceeding thence to Mazatlan, arose from the fact that under the Mexican laws she could land goods at Mazatlan by showing papers representing that she had paid duties at Monterey; and by entering the goods there rather than at Mazatlan money could be saved on the duties, as the custom house officers were supposed to be less vigilant and less strict at the former place than at the latter. After the vessel went ashore, Limantour and his crew landed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Richardson brought Limantour across the bay to Yerba Buena, and communicated the first news of the loss of the vessel. The "Don Quixote," Captain Paty, being in port, after several days of negotiation between Paty and Limantour, the latter chartered the vessel for two or three thousand dollars to go up to the wreck and save what she could. The "Don Quixote" was a good sailer, easily handled, and Captain Paty took her quickly to the wreck and in two or three weeks was back in Yerba Buena with nearly the whole cargo, most of it in fine condition. The weather had been good and the sea smooth, the southerly winds not having commenced, which favored the saving of the goods. After the "Don Quixote" returned she was ordered to Monterey to enter and pay duties, and she went accordingly. Limantour having lost his vessel, abandoned his trip to Mazatlan. His goods were disposed of to different vessels in port; some to residents. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Limantour established himself for a time at Yerba Buena, where he sold much of the merchandise, and then proceeded in a small schooner of forty or fifty tons down the coast and disposed of the remainder. Silk was largely used by the California ladies, the wealthier class dressing in that material. The rich men of the department were generous to their wives and daughters, never refusing them what they required in dry goods and other materials. Limantour's silks therefore found ready purchasers. The vessel subsequently became a total wreck and went to pieces where she struck. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1844-45 a little incident occurred which produced some local excitement. Captain Libbey, of the bark "Tasso," had made several voyages to the coast and had become enamored of a young California lady, who was also beloved by Chico Haro. Libbey was a good-natured man, but rather gross in his appearance. His attentions were not reciprocated by the lady. The two rivals met one day in Vioget's saloon, which was kept at that time by Juan Padillo, who succeeded Hinckley as alcalde. They had imbibed rather freely of California aguardiente, which when newly made, is very stimulating. Ramon Haro, brother of Chico, the brothers Francisco and Ysidro Sanchez, uncles of the two Haros, were present, and they all had drunk more or less. A drunken row ensued, high words were used, and during the melee Captain Libbey was stabbed by Chico Haro. His brother Ramon was supposed to be an accomplice in the matter. The Sanchez brothers were also more or less connected with it. This occurrence is mentioned, because breaches of the peace were rare; disturbances of any kind being very unusual. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>I have before stated that the Californians, as a class, were a sober people, and drank little; but the Sanchez family was an exception; and though not habitual drunkards, they imbibed freely, one only of them, Don Jos&eacute; de la Cruz Sanchez, being temperate. After the stabbing, Alcalde Hinckley did his duty promptly by arresting the two Haro brothers and Ysidro Sanchez. They were immediately tried, and Ysidro was released. The two Haros were found guilty and sentenced to the calaboose of the Pueblo San Jos&eacute; for six months each. The whole matter occupied but a brief time, Hinckley showing great alacrity in the administration of the law. Libbey was not dangerously stabbed, and presently recovered. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I have already spoken of the fine appearance and development of many of the Californians; and in this connection shall mention General Vallejo's three brothers, all well proportioned men, of large stature; one now living (1888) is over eighty years of age. The Bernals, of San Jose; the Berreyesas, of whom Don Jos&eacute; Santos was particularly noble-looking and intelligent; the half-brothers of Governor Alvarado, at Monterey; the Estrades, the Soberanes family, the Munr&aacute;s family, also of Monterey, were fine-looking men; also the Santa Cruz Castros, three or four brothers; Don Pablo de la Guerra's brothers, at Santa Barbara, they were his equals in good looks. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Antonio Maria Lugo, of Los Angeles, was genial and witty, about eighty years of age, yet active and elastic, sitting on his horse as straight as an arrow, with his reata on the saddle, and as skillful in its use as any of his vaqueros. He was an eccentric old gentleman. He had a wife aged twenty or twenty-two--his third or fourth. In 1846 I visited him. After cordially welcoming me, he introduced me to his wife, and in the same breath, and as I shook hands with her, said, in a joking way, with a cunning smile, " <HI REND="italics">No se enamore de mi joven esposa</HI>
025.sgm:." He had numbers of children, grandchildren and great.grandchildren. Los Angeles was largely populated from his family. Referring to this circumstance, he said to me, quietly, " <HI REND="italics">Don Guillermo, yo he cumplido mi deber a mi pais</HI>
025.sgm:<P>At Los Angeles, also, were Don Tomas Yorba and his brothers, splendid looking, proud and dignified in address and manners, the cream of the country. The wife of Don Tomas was Do&ntilde;a Vicenta, a graceful woman. The Sep&uacute;lvedas, of Los Angeles, also were fine physical specimens of the people. At San Diego, the Argellos, sons of the prefect, were finely formed men, well proportioned. Mrs. General Castro, of Monterey, Do&ntilde;a Modeste, was beautiful, queenly in her appearance and bearing. The wife of David Spence, sister of Prefect Estrada, was of medium size, with fine figure and beautiful, transparent complexion. The two sisters of General Vallejo, one the widow of Captain Cooper, the other the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Father Zalvidea spent most of his time in walking back and forth in the spacious piazza of the Mission, with his prayer-book open in his hand, saying his prayers, hour after hour. I stood there for some time observing him, and every time he reached the end of the piazza he would give me a little side glance and nod of recognition, and say " <HI REND="italics">Vamos si, se&ntilde;or</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Father Zalvidea was much beloved by the people, who looked upon him as a saint on earth, on account of the purity and excellence of his character. Among his eccentricities was his custom, at meals, of mixing different kinds of food thoroughly together on one plate,--meat, fish, vegetables, pie, pudding, sweet and sour--a little of everything. After they were thoroughly mingled, he would eat the preparation, instead of taking the different dishes separately, or in such combinations as were usual. This was accounted for by others as being a continual act of penance on his part. In other words, he did not care to enjoy his meals, and so made them distasteful; partaking of food merely to maintain existence. Whenever any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:ladies called on him, as they frequently did, to make some little present as a mark of their esteem, he never looked at them, but turned his face away, and extending his hand to one side received the gift, saying, " <HI REND="italics">Vamos si se&ntilde;ora; muchas gracias</HI>
025.sgm:." He never offered his hand in salutation to a lady. At times, in taking his walks for exercise in the vicinity of the Mission, the priest was seen to touch his head lightly on either side with a finger, throw his hands out with a quick, spasmodic motion, and snap his fingers; as if casting out devils. On such occasions he was heard to exclaim, " <HI REND="italics">Vete, satanas</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Resuming my business in Yerba Buena in April, 1845, I visited old customers around the bay, and was very successful in making collections prior to and during the killing season of that year; and I accumulated many hides, bags of tallow and furs, and had sold out the entire stock of goods by the time the "Don Quixote" arrived again in August, after having safely landed Micheltorena and his troops at San Blas. </P>
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025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AN EXTREMELY RARE AND EARLY PRINT</P>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER  XXXIII  <HI REND="italics">William Sturgis Hinckley Builds the First Bridge</HI>
025.sgm:<P>WILLIAM STURGIS HINCKLEY joined Nathan Spear in the latter part of 1838, in business at Yerba Buena. Hinckley was a native of Hingham, Massachusetts, nephew of William Sturgis, of Boston. He was an educated man, of pleasant address. He had been some years engaged in business in the Sandwich Islands, whence he came to this coast and traded awhile in vessels, until he established himself at Yerba Buena. He was popular with both the foreign and the native population. When I arrived at Santa Barbara, in May, 1838, Hinckley was there, and visited Alvarado's headquarters frequently, the two being intimate friends. Hinckley highly estimated Alvarado's talent and had a warm esteem for him, which feeling was reciprocated by the governor, who was in the habit of communicating his plans to Hinckley confidentially. Alvarado was much appreciated by intelligent foreigners, who recognized his general superiority, he being an excellent looking man, and possessing great geniality and tact. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At this time Carrillo was in active opposition to the governor, seeking to oust him from his position. Hinckley greatly assisted Alvarado with advice and suggestions regarding his preparations to repress Carrillo. One evening they were engaged in private conversation in the governor's rooms, discussing their plans. Alvarado had a one-eyed secretary, who was a fellow capable and accomplished enough, with talent for writing official dispatches and papers, and a useful man, but withal prying and inquisitive. Gas was not in use in those days, and sperm and adamantine candles were rare. Bullock and elk tallow candles were commonly used for lights, with old-fashioned snuffers, having a little square box attached to receive the wick when snuffed off. The secretary, on this occasion, every few minutes dodged into the room where Alvarado and Hinckley were engaged in conversation, ostensibly for the Purpose of snuffing the candles, showing thereby his politeness and attention, but really to catch the drift of the conversation and find out what was going on. He was so assiduous in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>In 1839 Hinckley went to Callao and brought the brig "Corsair," of which he was part owner and supercargo, to Yerba Buena, loaded with assorted merchandise. In 1840 he became a permanent resident here. In 1842 he married Do&ntilde;a Susana, daughter of Don Ygnacio Martinez, his first wife having died in 1840 in Massachusetts. In 1844 he was elected first-alcalde of the district of San Francisco, headquarters at Yerba Buena. Being well fitted for the office of alcalde, he discharged the duties of the position in a manner very creditable to himself and to the satisfaction of the Californians and foreign residents. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the block now bounded by Washington, Jackson, Montgomery and Kearny streets was a salt-water lagoon, or little lake, connected with the bay by a small creek. When the tide came in the lake was fills At all stages of the tide there was considerable water remaining in it. To reach Clark's point, to the north of the creek, the settled portion of the town being to the south of it, the people would have to get across the best way they could, by wading, or jumping across in some places. One of Captain Hinckley's acts as alcalde was to cause the construction of a little bridge across the creek, thereby adding much to the convenience of the people who had occasion to go to the other side. This was regarded as a great public improvement, and people came from far and near to look at and admire it, especially the native Californians, who arrived from the Mission ad elsewhere, with their wives and children, to contemplate the remarkable structure. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During his administration as alcalde there were two or three little disturbances among the lower orders at Vioget's saloon and elsewhere, this saloon then being rented to Juan Padillo, a Mexican. Alcalde Hinckley, on being informed, would immediately go to the spot, and raising his <HI REND="italics">baston</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Hinckley prevailed upon the prefect at Monterey to order a survey of Yerba Buena. The survey was made, and a plan of the town drawn and mapped, being the first survey of the kind of any importance. He took great interest in having the streets properly located and the plan executed in the best manner. No names at that time were given to any of the streets. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Governor Micheltorena was opposed by Alvarado and Castro, he was at first favored by Hinckley as the legal governor of the department. Respecting his own oath of office, he naturally felt it his duty to stand by the regularly constituted authorities. However, when Alvarado had succeeded in turning the current of popular feeling against Micheltorena, and had roused the people to revolution, Hinckley could not resist the movement, and joined the Alvarado party, becoming an active participant in its operations. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During the Bear Flag excitement Hinckley stood firmly by the Mexican Government, and was outspoken in its favor. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After the expiration of his term of office, he retained his friendship for the Californians and Mexicans. Before his death, which occurred in June, 1846, talk of war between Mexico and the United States was prevalent. The sloop-of-war "Portsmouth," Captain Montgomery, was then lying at Yerba Buena, and though Hinckley was an American, his feeling in 'favor of the Mexican rule was so strong that he used to have some warm discussions on the subject with Captain Montgomery and other officers of the vessel. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco Guerrero I regarded as one of the most important men in the district. He was a Mexican by birth. Shortly after I made his acquaintance, in the year 1838, I found him to be an intellectual man. About 1839 he was made alcalde, or <HI REND="italics">juez de paz</HI>
025.sgm:, and a few years after, was appointed sub-prefect. In these offices he performed his duties most strictly, but not discourteously. On the occasion of the detention of Spear and myself at the time of the general arrest of the foreigners, he came in person to Spear's house and mentioned in the politest manner that he had an order from headquarters to arrest us, which he very much regretted, saying that Spear and myself need not feel any alarm; that everybody knew us, and that he would go with Spear part of the way, as if they were traveling together, and that no indignity should be put upon him as a prisoner; making the exercise of authority as light and as little disagreeable as possible. And so in the other arrests, he was so polite that those who were detained could not be otherwise than pleased with him. He knew them all and showed no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Guerrero encouraged the immigration of foreigners to California and their settlement, and defended them in their rights after they got here. He saw that the country must necessarily pass from the control of Mexico. In his administration of office he gave great satisfaction, showing no partiality to his countrymen over foreigners, treating all with equal justice. Albeit a thorough Mexican, and loving his country, he had, as he often expressed it, no dislike to Americans. He admired them as a progressive people, and saw that they would ultimately control. On one occasion, in conversation with him, I suggested that he had better look out for a rainy day, and secure some land for himself; that Governor Alvarado, in consideration of his official services, would give him a grant, and that the land about the bay of San Francisco would some day be valuable. He replied that he had already taken steps to secure a grant at Half Moon bay, five or six leagues in extent; that he had received a permit from the government to occupy it, and in due time would get his title. He was very social in his nature and fond of little dances, which were frequently had at his house, joining in the festivity with great enthusiasm. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Guerrero was one of the few real founders of San Francisco. A street at the Mission was named after him. In 1851 he was murdered, in broad daylight, at the corner of Mission and Twelfth streets, by a Frenchman, who came up behind him, mounted on horseback, and struck him on the back of the head with a slungshot. It is supposed that parties interested in the Santillan land claim were the instigators of the murder. They wished to get Guerrero out of the way, as he would have been a damaging witness against their claim; being afraid of his influence and ability and independence of character; knowing he would not hesitate to expose the fraudulent nature of the claim. His widow is still living, ana maintains her fine and dignified appearance and the graceful walk of her earlier years (1890). </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER  XXXIV  <HI REND="italics">Ships, Hides, Custom Officials and Contraband</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THERE is not in existence, to my knowledge, any maritime or commercial report of arrivals, or statement of the volume of business, in the port of San Francisco (Yerba Buena) for the two decades preceding the latter part of the year 1846, at which time the United States government established a custom house here, the first collector being appointed by Commodore Stockton, commander of the naval squadron. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It has been my purpose in these pages to furnish as complete a list as possible of the arrivals of vessels<ANCHOR ID="n34-6">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-6">See appendix: List of Ship Arrivals.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>The Boston ships which came here in early days with goods to sell, and took back hides, remained about two years, going up and down the coast several times. The round trip from San Diego, touching at San Pedro, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, San Simeon, Monterey, Santa Cruz and Yerba Buena, occupied three or four months; so that during the two years they made seven or eight trips of this kind, selling' their goods collecting hides and tallow at different points, and on reaching San Diego deposited their collection of hides and tallow in warehouses, each of the vessels having a house for that purpose. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At that port the hides were prepared for shipment by soaking them for twenty-four or forty-eight hours in large vats of brine, to preserve them against the attacks of moths and other insects. They were then spread out on the smooth sandy beach to dry, and afterward hung on ropes and beaten by the sailors with a sort of flail, a contrivance made of a wooden stick three and a half feet long, to which was fastened a strip of hide and a short piece of wood of heavier kind than the other, to swing freely. Armed with these beating.sticks, two sailors passed along each side the row of hides and beat them thoroughly, removing all the dust and sand. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After two years, a full cargo having been gathered, and stored at San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Prior to 1843, whalers from the Atlantic coast would occasionally touch at a California port, either San Diego, San Pedro, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Monterey, or the bay of San Francisco, for supplies of beef and vegetables, and for water. In 1843, '44, '45, a considerable number of whalers came to San Francisco bay, and anchored off Saucelito; as that was a convenient place to obtain water, Captain Richardson invited them to come and take what they wanted from his springs, which were reached from the beach. The shipping was generally supplied with water from those springs. There was also a spring of good water at about where the northeast corner of Clay and Montgomery streets is now, from which whalers and merchantmen sometimes got a supply. As many as thirty or forty whalers were in the bay at one time during each of these yearn They were not required to enter at the custom house. They generally had on board a few thousand dollars' worth of goods for trading, and were allowed by the custom house authorities to exchange goods for supplies for their own use, at any point where they touched along the coast, to the ext:t of $400, but were not allowed to sell goods for cash. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After 1842 there was an officer of the customs stationed at Yerba Buena to keep a general oversight of the shipping. The whalers, however, became so numerous in the bay that he found it impossible to attend to them all, not having guards sufficient to place one on each. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The farmers were much benefited by these vessels, inasmuch as they obtained from them goods at a cheap rate, in exchange for supplies. In consequence of there being so little supervision over them the whalers traded with the farmers and others for supplies, freely, not adhering to the $400 rule, but doing pretty much as they pleased. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In making my usual trading expeditions, the rancheros whom I met would ask me if I thought as many of the whalers would come another year as were there then. I told them I thought even more would come, as they had been encouraged by finding good supplies of vegetables, and would probably come again and advise other ships to come. They asked my advice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Among those who were most active and energetic in furnishing supplies of this kind, and interested in planting for the purpose, were Don Vicente Peralta, the Castros of San Pablo, Don Antonio Maria Peralta, Don Ygnacio Peralta, and Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Estudillo, all on the east side of the bay. The Californians, although mainly engaged in cattle raising, were fond of agriculture, and would have engaged in it extensively had there been any market for their products. When an opportunity presented itself, as in the case of supplying the whaleships, they availed themselves of it, and commenced planting. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The vessels usually remained from four to six weeks getting in their supplies, which took some time, as they had to send out their boats to the different ranchos about the bay, there being no produce merchants in those days. They were delayed also in painting and repairing, and waiting, perhaps, for the proper time to arrive when whales would be in season at the whaling ground. Most of the crews were given their liberty on shore, and a sailor would occasionally desert, and settle among the rancheros; if a good man, industrious, and willing to work, especially if he had some mechanical skill at carpentry or other useful industry, he was encouraged by the rancheros to stay, and was treated with kindness; but if indolent and worthless fellows deserted, while kindly treated, they were not encouraged to remain, but were presented with horses, and perhaps some clothes, and persuaded to ride away to some other rancho. </P>
025.sgm:<P>As the time for the whaling fleet to visit the port approached, the farmers who had raised a supply of vegetables looked forward to their coming, hoping to dispose of their produce, and obtain goods in exchange at a low rate. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1843 or '44 a young Irishman named O'Farrell deserted from an American whaleship lying at Saucelito, having been employed as a cooper on board, and went to the Mission of San Rafael, then under the charge of Timothy Murphy, as administrator. From there he went to Bodega, bought a large tract of land, and engaged in cattle raising. He subsequently assisted as civil engineer in the survey of a portion of the city of San Francisco, as laid down on the present official map. Afterward he was elected to the State Legislature from Sonoma county; for one term held the important position of State Harbor Commissioner; and Jasper O'Farrell's<ANCHOR ID="n34-7">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-7">See appendix; Jasper O'Farrell's Signed Statement page 345.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>While acting as the agent of Paty, McKinley &amp; Co., at Yerba Buena, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In securing commodities from the whaleships I had them landed by the captains in large water casks, each end of the cask being filled with Boston pilot bread to the depth of eighteen or twenty inches. The casks were landed on the beach, and were supposed to be empty, but if any official felt curious enough to make an examination, and open the cask, the pilot bread would be seen. It was common to purchase bread supplies from the vessels for use on shore; there were no bakeries, and the pilot bread was much liked. It would therefore appear all right to the inquiring officers. Nathan Spear, William G. Rae, William A. Leidesdorff and others doing business at Yerba Buena got goods from the whalers by the same method, and considerable trade was carried on in this covert manner. During these two or three years, I made outside of my regular salary from my employers two or three thousand dollars. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The revenue regulations were so little respected and so loosely enforced, that this traffic with whalers was safe. In 1845, the whaleship "Magnolia," Captain Simmons, was at Yerba Buena. He was afterward of the firm of Simmons, Hutchinson &amp; Co., at San Francisco; in 1849 one of the heaviest houses on the coast, doing a large business. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Jim Smith, of the whaleship "Hibernia," from New Bedford, was here in 1844. He afterward established a line of packets between San Francisco and Honolulu. Captain Smith was a Democrat, and Captain Eliab Grimes, before mentioned in this narrative, was a Whig, and in 1844 they met in Nathan Spear's parlor, which was a resort of prominent merchants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Captain Smith had the advantage of Captain Grimes in keeping his temper and being always cool and collected, while Grimes would get very much heated and would swear furiously at his adversary. In that remote part of the country forty-five years ago (1889), in that little Mexican town of about seventy or eighty inhabitants, the influence of the fierce contest between Democrats and Whigs which was being waged all over the Union was felt and had an effect. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Eliab Grimes, during the war with England in 1812, was a young lieutenant of an American privateer, an hermaphrodite brig, which did great service in our cause, and captured many prizes, burning the vessels and landing the officers and crews at some convenient point, after securing what money and other valuables were on board. So successful was the privateer that each officer acquired a little fortune. Giving an account of his experiences on board, he said that one morning they saw a vessel far off flying the English flag, supposed to be a merchantman, but on approaching, she proved to be a British man-of-war, and a fast sailer, which bore down upon them; a stiff breeze blowing at the time. The privateer began to run away as fast as her sails would carry her, but the gale increasing, the war vessel made better headway, and their capture seemed imminent. Fortunately, the wind lightened, giving the American vessel an advantage, as she could sail faster than her pursuer in a light wind, and toward night she increased the distance between them and escaped. </P>
025.sgm:<P>William G. Rae, who was present when the captain related the adventure, remarked, with a touch of national pride, he being an Englishman: "Captain Grimes, if the wind hadn't moderated, you would have had to surrender the brig." "No!" retorted Grimes, flashing up; "I'll be d--d if we would; we would have scuttled the old brig and sunk her before we would have surrendered." It is true; their decision and resolution would have proved unconquerable. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rae and Grimes were on very friendly terms. They were given much to discussion, and for hours together opposed each other in wordy controversy about national matters, the American Revolution, the last war with Great Britain, ably defending to the utmost each his own country. Rae, having a liking for the Americans, was not offended with Grimes' ebullitions, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Grimes was an intimate friend of my father. They made several voyages together, one as passenger in the other's vessel, and my only brother was named after Captain Grimes. The captain was a noble-hearted man, very much esteemed and loved both at Honolulu and Yerba Buena. In 1841 or 1842 he obtained from Alvarado a grant of eleven leagues of land near Sacramento city, which afterward came into the possession of Sam Norris, and was known as the Norris ranch. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Captain Grimes died, in 1848, he had 16,000 or 18,000 head of rodeo cattle on his ranch, obtained in these few years by his good management, system and skill. He was attentive to details, such as having the right proportion of bulls to cows. I merely allude to this by way of comparing the American and Californian styles of management. His funeral was attended by the people of all the surrounding country, who came to pay the last tribute of respect and affection to his memory. </P>
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025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[TEXT OF LETTERS ON OPPOSITE PAGE]</P>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN A. SUTTER'S LETTER INTRODUCING BIDWELL  </P>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Davis transported Sutter and his goods to the site off his "New Helvetia" settlement, now Sacramento, in</HI>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN BIDWELL TO DAVIS  <HI REND="italics">Bidwell reached California as a member of the Bartleson Party--the first overland caravan of settlers--in</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXV  <HI REND="italics">First Discovery of Gold In California</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE first discovery of gold in California to be made public was in 1840 in the valley of San Fernando, in the present county of Los Angeles. It was made by some Mexicans, from Sonora, who were passing through going north. They were familiar with the gold placers in their own country, had their attention attracted to the locality, and made the discovery. A good deal of gold from this source found its way to Los Angeles into the hands of the storekeepers. Henry Mellus, in trading along the coast, used to visit Los Angeles, his vessel lying meanwhile at San Pedro. In his business with the merchants there he collected about $5,000 in gold dust, which was of fine quality, in scales as from placer diggings. Other merchants also collected some. Mellus remitted $5,000 in gold dust to Boston by the ship "Alert," and also made other similar remittances. I saw at Yerba Buena, and handled, some of the dust which Mellus had obtained. That year and the next, probably eighty to one hundred thousand dollars worth of gold dust was taken from these diggings. The finding of gold  continued there for several years, up to the time of what is known as the big gold discovery in the Sacramento valley, but the results were small. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The coin generally used by the merchants was Spanish and Mexican doubloons (gold); also American gold coin. Silver money of Mexican, Peruvian and United States coin was likewise in circulation. I never saw in California any of the paper money in use in the East </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the early days, while California was still under Spanish rule, the proportion of men who had immigrated to the new country was largely in excess of the women. To equalize the difference, and furnish wives for the single men, more particularly for the soldiers, a representation was made by the governor of the department to the Spanish authorities of the facts, whereupon the home government made arrangements for the conveyance to California of a considerable number of women of Spanish extraction, from Mexico. Some came by water, by vessels chartered by the Government <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The motive was to prevent, so far as possible, the mixing of the Spanish race in California with the native Indians of the country. The Spaniards were naturally proud of their own blood, and wanted to keep it uncontaminated. Hence this movement on the part of the government. The want of women was thus supplied in a measure, but as late as 1838, and along up to 1846, the men exceeded the women in number, and some mixture with the Indians occurred. </P>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S SAW MILL AT COLOMA BUILT BY JAMES MARSHALL, AND IN THE RACE OF WHICH HE DISCOVERED GOLD ON THE MORNING OF JANUARY 24, 1848. REPRODUCED FROM A DRAWING MADE AT THE TIME.</P>
025.sgm:<P>It was customary for the young men of the Californians to marry early. In this they were encouraged by their parents, partly because they desired to have the sparsely settled country populated as rapidly as possible, and partly also that the young men might thereby escape being drafted into the army. Under the Mexican law the commanding general of the army had power to levy upon the people for as many men as he might want to recruit his military force. From time to time, he designated such young men of different families as he chose to be taken for the purpose. It was nothing less than most arbitrary conscription. There was no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The unmarried were only taken, the commanding general being so considerate as to leave the married men to care for their families. The motive for early marriage, therefore, was strong; in frequent instances boys of sixteen and seventeen taking wives unto themselves. The designs of the commander were often thus frustrated, and draft evaded by young men who were on the alert to escape military service. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A squad of ten soldiers, commanded by a sergeant, was sent out in 1838 by General Vallejo, from Sonoma, for the purpose of picking up recruits at the ranchos. A young man living in the vicinity of the general's headquarters getting information of this movement, and of the direction in which the squad was going, rode off post-haste to Suscol and across the National Ranch. As fast as one horse tired he lassoed another. Continuing on his course he reached the Straits of Carquinez, where he abandoned horse and saddle, and was quickly ferried across in a <HI REND="italics">tule bolsa</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The Californian parents had dread of their sons being drafted into the army, and the young men themselves had no liking for it. Some of the more wealthy rancheros had pre-arranged and reliable communications with their relations or friends living in Sonoma, who gave them information whenever a squad of soldiers was about to be sent out to gather up recruits, and of the direction the squad would take. At such times young men would be sent off for a month or two from the rancho, either hunting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The farmers were peace-loving men, and disliked to have their children forced into the army. They would protest, in the presence of their friends, against General Vallejo's or Castro's taking their boys for soldiers, asking what they wanted of them when the country was at peace, not at war or likely to be, saying that the general had a hundred or two soldiers already, which was a force amply sufficient to send out to capture or chastise wild Indians, and that any further increase must be only for the purpose of gratifying personal ambition and love of power and display; that if the Americans came to take the country, if they ever should, the few hundred soldiers he might have under him would not prevent the carrying out of their designs. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After Captain Sutter had settled at the fort New Helvetia, he was in the habit, at times, of sending fresh salmon to Yerba Buena. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The fish were fresh-salted or smoked. Nathan Spear, who was an epicure, and lover of good things, appreciated these fish very highly. The idea suggested itself to his mind that something profitable might be done in salmon fishing on the Sacramento river. Not wishing to trespass upon Captain Sutter's ground, although, of course, Sutter had no exclusive right to the fish in the river, Spear wrote to him on the subject, and received encouragement to go up and engage in fishing there for salmon. He made several trips in 1840 and '41 in the schooner "Isabel," camping on the bank of the Sacramento in a comfortable tent, and superintended the catching of the fish by the crew of his schooner and by Indians experienced in fishing, furnished by Captain Sutter. He took large quantities of salmon, filling the hold of the "Isabel" with fish packed in bulk; transported them to Yerba Buena, and disposed of them at satisfactory prices, packed in barrels and kegs of different sizes, to visiting vessels and to residents, making a good profit. </P>
025.sgm:<P>To Nathan Spear, therefore, is due the credit of having inaugurated the salmon fishery on this coast as a business, and of developing, to a considerable extent, an enterprise which has since grown to large proportions. On the last trip to the river in salmon catching Mrs. Spear accompanied her husband. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While John Parrott was United States commercial agent (consul) at Mazatlan in 1844 or '45, and also engaged in trade, an English brig named the "Star of the West" arrived there from England, with a cargo consigned to Parrott, the invoice cost of which was $ 120,000. The duties on this cargo would have amounted to that sum; probably more. Parrott wished to save paying a large proportion of them, and thinking he could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Captain J. R. B. Cooper was successful in securing a large amount of these goods. He took down from Monterey a number of the old-fashioned, solid-wheel wagons, drawn by oxen, the creaking and screeching of the vehicles, for want of grease on the axles, being heard for miles. With the aid of sailors whom he brought to the wreck he secured a large share of the spoils, many wagon loads; took them to Monterey, and made a small fortune out of the proceeds. Cooper was an old sea captain, and understood the business. Others saved smaller quantities. The custom house permitted them to be taken as "damaged goods," without payment of duty, although, no damage was apparent on opening the packages. The landing of the goods was attended with great risk and danger, three of the native Californians losing their lives at this time-Jos&eacute; Antonio Rodriguez, Francisco Gonzalez and Francisco Mesa. None of the wrecked goods was recovered by Mr. Parrott. His protests and demands were ignored. It was a scramble, and he could not procure men or teams. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1840 or '41 there arrived at Yerba Buena from Mazatlan two Americans, one named Hiram Teal, a merchant; the other Rufus Titcomb, his clerk. Teal brought on a vessel about twenty thousand dollars' worth of Mexican goods; such as silk and cotton rebozos, serapes, ponchos, mangos, costly and ordinary; silver mounted and gilt spurs, saddles, ornamented and ordinary, <HI REND="italics">armas de pelo</HI>
025.sgm:, or riding robes for protecting the legs and body up to the waist; silver headstalls for horses, hair bridle reins, and other fancy and ornamental goods; an assortment of Mexican products.  Teal opened a store and sold these goods to the hacendados <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>I have heard him speak highly of the people of New Mexico with whom he had lived, in respect to their honesty and fair dealing; that during the whole mercantile course there, of several years, during which he dealt largely with them, giving them credit for their purchases when required, he never lost a dollar in all his transactions. They were kind and hospitable; their kindness was genuine, and not affected. He said the happiest part of his life was spent among them. He obtained his goods for his store at Santa F&eacute;, mostly from St. Louis, overland, commencing there with three or four thousand dollars. The twenty thousand dollars' worth of goods he brought from Mazatlan to Yerba Buena showed how successful he had been in New Mexico. At Yerba Buena he was much respected by Spear, Rae, and other prominent merchants, and liked by the people in general. He was fond of chess, and also made frequently one of a party at whist, playing chess in the daytime with Rae, and whist in the evening. After selling his goods here, Teal returned to New Mexico. Both he and Titcomb were originally from New England. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVI  <HI REND="italics">Gold, Gold, and More Gold</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE existence of gold in the Sacramento valley and vicinity was known to the Padres long prior to what is commonly known as the gold discovery of 1848. Many of the Indians connected with the Missions were from that part of the country, and after becoming civilized, they were permitted to go to and fro between the Missions and their old homes, leave of absence being granted for the purpose. Sometimes on returning to the Mission after a visit of this kind, an Indian would bring little pieces of shining metal to the priest, approach him with an air of mystery indicating he had something to communicate, and display what he had found. The priest was to the Indian the embodiment of all wisdom and knowledge, and naturally the one to whom he would disclose anything of importance. Probably he had a suspicion that these shining bits were gold, having some indefinite idea of the value of that metal. He would be asked where he had obtained it, and would name the spot, a certain slough or river bottom, where he had picked it up, or say that in digging for some root he had unearthed it. Upon getting all the information the Indian could give, the priest, with a solemn air, would caution the Indian not to impart to anyone else knowledge of the discovery, assuring him if he further divulged such information the wrath of God would be visited upon him. Having the most entire confidence in the priest and in everything he said, the Indian never uttered a word in regard to finding the gold, and kept the matter secret in his own breast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In my business trips about the bay of San Francisco and neighborhood I visited the Missions, and became intimately acquainted with Father Muro, of the Mission of San Jos&eacute;, and Father Mercado, of the Mission of Santa Clara. Both these priests always welcomed me. Father Mercado, whenever I was in the neighborhood transacting my business with the people, would send a messenger for me to come and dine with him. His table was bountifully supplied; and during Lent, when meat was forbidden, he had everything else that was allowable, fish of different kinds, eggs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The priests naturally had confidence in the merchants who supplied them with goods and whose position gave them influence, and it was through them that they had communication with the world outside. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Father Muro, while I was visiting him along in 1843 or 1844, at the time I was agent of Paty, McKinley &amp; Co., at Yerba Buena, mentioned to me his knowledge of the existence of gold in the Sacramento valley as a great secret, requiring me to promise not to divulge it. I have never mentioned it to this day to anyone. Afterward, in conversation with Father Mercado, the same subject was gradually and cautiously broached, and he confided to me his knowledge of the existence of gold in the same locality. Both of the priests stated that their information was obtained from Indians. Father Mercado was a brilliant conversationalist, and talked with greatest fluency, in a steady stream of discourse hour after hour; and I greatly enjoyed hearing him. After he had imparted the news of gold in the Sacramento valley, I would interrupt the discourse, and, for the sake of argument, suggest that it would be better to make the matter known to induce Americans and others to come here, urging that with their enterprise and skill, they would rapidly open and develop the country, build towns, and engage in numberless undertakings which would tend to the enrichment and prosperity of the country, increase the value of lands, enhance the price of cattle, and benefit the people. He would answer that the immigration would be dangerous; that they would pour in by thousands and overrun the country; Protestants would swarm here, and the Catholic religion would be endangered; the work of the Missions would be interfered with, and as the Californians had no means of defense, no navy nor army, the Americans would soon obtain supreme control; that they would undoubtedly at some time come in force, and all this would happen; but if no inducements were offered, the change might not take place in his time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I never heard from any one, except the two priests, of gold in Northern California prior to its discovery in 1848 at Sutter's mill. In the year 1851, I, with others, made an expedition into lower California from San Diego in search of gold. There information had been given by Indians to priests under similar circumstances. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About the year 1837 there was an Indian outbreak in what is now San Diego county. A family by the name of Ybarra, consisting of the father, the mother, two young daughters, and a son about twelve years of age, lived at the rancho of San Ysidro. They had in their employ an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:old Indian woman, who had been christianized at the Mission, a very faithful and good woman, a <HI REND="italics">comadre</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The Californians were a brave people, especially in opposition to the Indians, whether they went out in pursuit of them to recover stolen horses, or otherwise. They were always prepared to resist an attack by them in their own homes, and did not fear them, but considered that three or four, or eight or ten of their number were sufficient to vanquish ten times that many Indians. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ybarra had with him two vaqueros on the ranch, and did not think it necessary to pay heed to the statement of the woman, who, the night before the attack, repeated with emphasis, her advice for the family to leave, saying the next day the Indians would surely be there and carry out their plans. The next morning at nine o'clock, while Ybarra and his vaqueros were at the corral, about 150 yards from the house, engaged in lassoing horses, with the intention of starting for San Diego, the Indians stealthily approached, to the number of seventy-five or one hundred. The three men in the corral, seeing them very near, immediately ran toward the house to secure arms. This design, however, was thwarted by a little Indian boy employed in the family, who, seeing them coming as they neared the house, shut and barred the door and prevented them from entering. He must have had knowledge of the designs of the Indians, and been in complicity with them, as by this act of the little villain, the three unarmed men were left outside at the mercy of the miscreant savages, and were speedily killed. The Indians then broke into the house, and made a movement immediately to kill Do&ntilde;a Juana, the mistress, but the old Indian woman defended her at the peril of her own life; interceded with the Indians and supplicated them to spare her mistress. This they did. The two daughters were also captured by the Indians and made prisoners. All the houses of the rancho were burned. The mother was ordered by the savages to leave the house, and go on foot to San Diego. She set forth entirely disrobed. On approaching <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>At the Rancho Tia Juana the intelligence created much consternation, and the camps of the several families were immediately broken up. They proceeded to San Diego, accompanied by the Argello family, who took with them as many of their horses as they conveniently could. The Indians shortly after reached the place, burned the houses, and secured the stock which the owner had left behind in the fields. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVII  <HI REND="italics">Firewater, Bonfires and Scared Indians</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE third night the Indians intended to fall upon the Rancho Jesus Maria, occupied by Don Jos&eacute; Lopez with his wife and two daughters. News of the Indian outbreak reaching San Diego, it was resolved to send out a force for his protection and to rescue, if possible, the two girls captured at San Ysidro. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Jos&eacute; Lopez had a large vineyard and manufactured wine, of which he occasionally imbibed more than was consistent with a well-regulated head. On the evening when the Indians were to attack him he was filled with wine, which led him to some extraordinary demonstrations. He went out and built a number of large bonfires in the vicinity of his house, and then commenced shouting vociferously, making a great noise for his own entertainment only. As the Indians approached the place they sent out a spy in advance to reconnoitre and ascertain if everything was favorable for attack. The spy seeing the fires burning, and hearing this loud and continued shouting, concluded that the Californians were there in force, and so reported to the main body of Indians, who deemed it prudent to retire. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This is the only instance I remember where any particular benefit resulted from the freaks of an intoxicated man, who probably could not have done anything better to drive away the Indians had he been aware of their presence and designs. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The next day the force arrived, and Lopez and family were escorted to San Diego, the main body of the troops going in pursuit of the Indians. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ybarra, at the time he was murdered, had in San Diego two sons, who joined the company in pursuit, as they were anxious to learn everything possible regarding the fate of their sisters. They were soon informed by a captured spy that two of the chiefs had made them their wives. The company followed into the mountains, until they reached a rugged and broken country wholly inaccessible to horses, and were obliged to stop, the narrow defiles affording innumerable hiding places for Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Opposite the house where she was living with her aunt was the residence of Ybarra's two sons and their families. Do&ntilde;a Juana, the mother, lived with them in San Diego up to the time of her death, which occurred about a year after her husband was murdered; this terrible occurrence and the loss of her daughters also, proving too great a blow for her. During this time she never ceased to lament their sad fate. It was heart-rending to listen to her expressions of grief, weeping and wailing for the loss of her husband and children, like Rachel refusing to be comforted. Her distress often made the people weep who heard her lamentations. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Prior to the incidents above related, the same tribe of Indians had made several attacks upon the Presidio of San Diego for purpose of plunder, and the capture of women, but were frustrated; and also pursued and severely chastised. The savages in that part of the country had the reputation of being braver and better fighters than those in the north. The San Diego Indians ate the meat of horses as well as of cattle. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1838 there were living at the Presidio of San Diego the following families: The Estudillos, the Argellos, the Bandinis, the Alvarados, Governor Pico's family, the Marrons, the Machados, the Ybarras, the Serranos, the Carrillos, the Lopez family, the Fitch family and a number of others. </P>
025.sgm:<P>One of the daughters of the Alvarado family married Captain Snook. After her marriage two of her younger sisters resided with her a portion of the time. One of them had acquired considerable knowledge of Indian language. Several of these families had Indian men for cooks. One evening after supper, the young lady just mentioned, Do&ntilde;a Guadalupe Alvarado, overheard the cooks in earnest conversation in the Indian language. As soon as the words were caught by her ear she was startled and surprised, and drawing nearer heard all that was said. She discovered that the Indian cooks from the different families had gathered in the kitchen of the house and were discussing a plan of attack upon the town by members of their tribe. It appeared that arrangements had been completed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>In the council of the cooks, it came out that each on the following night was to communicate with a spy from the main body of Indians, and take stations for this purpose on top of the hill overlooking the town, where the old Presidio and first garrison quarters of the Spaniards in California formerly stood. They were to inform the spies of the condition of each family, whether or not it was sufficiently off guard at the time to warrant an attack. There happened to be present in the house Don Pio Pico and Don Andres Pico, who were making a friendly call on the family. They were a good deal startled at the statement made by the young lady, and represented that they would give the conspiracy immediate attention. The people of San Diego at that period had their houses well supplied with arms and were always on the watch for Indian movements. Accordingly, during the night they organized a company of citizens and arranged that at daylight each house should be visited, and the cook secured. This was successfully accomplished. As each of the conspirators came out of the house in the early morning he was lassoed, and all were taken a little distance from town, where it was proposed to shoot them. They expressed a desire to be allowed to die as Christians, to confess to the priest and to receive the sacrament. This request was granted; the priest heard the confession of each and administered the rites of the church. A trench of suitable depth was then dug, and the Indians made to kneel close beside it. Then on being shot, each fell into the ditch, where he was buried. Eight or ten Indians were executed at this time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While these proceedings were taking place a messenger was sent to one of the Boston hide-ships lying in the port requesting that a cannon might be loaned to the town, to assist in its defense. The cannon was sent over, with a suitable supply of ammunition. At night a party of citizens visited the spot where the Indian spy was to appear, and succeeded in capturing him. He steadily refused to confess, though assured that lie would soon die, as his friends had done before him. One of his ears was cut off, and he was given to understand that the other one would follow, and that he would be mutilated little by little until he made the statement required of him; whereupon, his resolution gave way, and he made a confession indicating where the Indians were encamped, and telling all that he knew. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This mode of extorting a confession, although repulsive to those who participated in it, was the only way of securing the desired information. After the spy had divulged all he knew, he was shot without ceremony, he being an unconverted Indian and not desiring the services of the priest.  </P>
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025.sgm:<P>The next day the citizens were out in force, found and surprised the Indians and engaged them in battle; numbers of them were killed, but none of the Californians. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The last time Miss Estudillo saw any of these savages was in 1840 while visiting at the house of Don Juan Bandini, who owned and occupied the Rancho Jurupa, in what is now Riverside county. Her aunt, Do&ntilde;a Dolores Estudillo, was Bandini's first wife, and at her death, left several children. He afterward married a daughter of the Prefect, Don Santiago Argello, who, at the time now mentioned, was mistress of the household. The house was situated at an elevation, and the view from it commanded a wide range of country. One day they all noticed from the house a body of Indians in the distance, who were collecting horses they had stolen from the Mission San Gabriel and the Rancho Santa Ana in that neighborhood. As Bandini had but few men with him at the time, and the Indians were in large numbers, he did not deem it prudent to attack, and attempt the rescue of the animals. He therefore permitted them to move off to their retreats without any pursuit. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1838, at Yerba Buena, I made the acquaintance of James Berry, an Irishman of intelligence and education, who had come here from Mexico or South America. He had traveled all over the world. Spear was attracted to him, and Berry stayed at his house while in Yerba Buena. He spent a good deal of his time at the Mission of San Rafael with Timothy Murphy, one of his countrymen, and Father Quijas. He was a Spanish scholar and spoke Spanish perfectly. In 1839 Governor Alvarado gave him a grant of eleven leagues of land at Punta Reyes, and he stocked the rancho with horses and cattle. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The ship "Alciope" of Boston, Captain Clap, arrived at Yerba Buena in the summer of 1840 with an assorted cargo, from Honolulu. She had been chartered by A. B. Thompson, who disposed of her goods here, and then loaded her with hides and tallow. She went down the coast exchanging the tallow for hides, with the tallow vessels bound for Callao, and proceeded to the Islands; from there to Boston. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the Fourth of July celebration while at Yerba Buena on this trip, being the only vessel in the bay at the time, she was handsomely decorated with flags of different nations. Salutes were fired by the vessel at sunrise, noon and sunset. A grand picnic was held at the Rincon, which was attended by all Americans and other foreigners of the town, by the elite of the Californians from town and country, and by the officers of the vessel. The foreigners, English, Irish, Germans and French, joined in the festivities with all the enthusiasm of the Americans, and the Californians likewise, prominent among whom was Don Francisco Guerrero, who did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVIII  <HI REND="italics">Nathan Spear's Grist Mill; the First</HI>
025.sgm:<P>ABOUT September, 1838, there arrived at Yerba Buena the hermaphrodite brig "Fearnaught," Captain Robert H. Dare, from Realejo, Central America, with a cargo mostly of <HI REND="italics">panoche</HI>
025.sgm: (hard sugar) put up in boxes in solid form, each box containing a cake of about three arrobas in weight, and resembling packages of maple sugar. The vessel also brought a little coffee. She remained in the harbor a long time. The <HI REND="italics">panoche</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Perry was married to one of the ladies of Realejo, and appeared to be very devoted to his wife and children. Having an intimate knowledge of the character, habits and manners of the people of Central America, he <illus entity="a025-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[TEXT OF LETTER ON OPPOSITE PAGE]</P>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BARTLETT CARRIERS ON FOR NO&Eacute;  <HI REND="italics">This Alcalde Grant bears the signatures of Jos&eacute; de Jesus No&eacute;, last Mexican Alcalde, and Washington A. Bartlett, first American Alcalde at San Francisco</HI>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MONTGOMERY ALLAYS LEIDESDORFF's FEARS.  <HI REND="italics">This letter is the outcome of the rather boisterous Fourth of July celebration of 1846, five days before the American flag was raised over the future San Francisco.</HI>
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025.sgm:<P>In 1838, and prior to that time, the Mexican law applicable to the department of California forbade anybody in any seaport building nearer the water than 200 varas, so that facilities for smuggling might not exist, as if the houses were close to shore. Under this agreement Jacob P. Leese and Captain Wm. A. Richardson were living on what is now Grant avenue, and conducting business there. This was considerably beyond the 200 vara limit, and as they could not be down near the water, which they would have preferred for their business, they went higher up than was necessary under the law, this elevation giving them, however, a good view of the surrounding country and bay. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About the beginning of 1838, the Boston bark, "Kent," Captain Steel, was lying in the bay of San Francisco, and Spear bought of him a good-sized ship's house, and placed it near the beach, at what is now the northwest corner of Clay and Montgomery streets. As a special friend, Alvarado, the governor, gave him permission to occupy it there, he then being the only person who was permitted to be near the margin of Loma Alta cove. Very soon afterward he built a store adjoining "Kent Hall," by which name the ship's house was known, though only 12x18 feet in dimensions. About that time Spear and Leese dissolved their partnership, and the business on the hill was discontinued, Leese still having his residence there. Spear opened business at the new place near the water. He had no title to the lot, simply a permission from the governor to occupy it. Perry, finding that the climate of California agreed with him and that his health had improved, determined to make Yerba Buena his home in the future. He was inclined to become a Mexican citizen. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spear encouraged him in this inclination, as being of great advantage, for thereby he might, under the law, become a grantee of such lands as the governor should be disposed to bestow upon him. He also thought Perry might assist him in acquiring a title to the lot occupied by his store. Perry went by land to Monterey, with strong letters of introduction from Spear to Alvarado, in the spring of '39. The governor made him a citizen of Mexico, and granted to him, in his own name, the fifty vara lot occupied by Spear. Upon his return, Perry deeded the property to him, although under the law, strictly applied, Spear could not hold the land under such transfer. In a short time Leese obtained a similar permit from the governor to build near the water, and did so. After that, Vioget and John Fuller did the same. They were followed by others as the town increased and foreigners came in. Spear continued to occupy the place until the change of government in 1846. Perry returned to Realejo in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>In 1839, early in the year, the brig "Daniel O'Connell," an English vessel, arrived at Yerba Buena from Payta, Peru, with a cargo of Peruvian and other foreign goods, having on board a considerable quantity of pisco or <HI REND="italics">italia</HI>
025.sgm:, a fine delicate liquor manufactured at a place called Pisco. He had also a considerable lot of vicu&ntilde;a hats, and a good many <HI REND="italics">ponchos</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In 1839 the brig "Corsair," Captain William S. Hinckley, arrived from Monterey. Hinckley was afterward alcalde. While at Monterey he said something about evading the custom house laws, and was heard to .talk imprudently in Spear's store. I cautioned him in a friendly way. A few days after, Don Pablo de la Guerra, a custom house officer, and other officials, arrived from Monterey; Hinckley was arrested, and kept under arrest for about a week at Spear's store while an examination was made by the officers. An inspection was made of the vessel, the sailing master and other officers were cross-questioned; but nothing could be proved against him, and he was discharged. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Hinckley being a man with good powers of speech and persuasion, brought these personal forces to bear in his defense against the charge of smuggling. Besides this, he showed the officials all the attentions possible during the examination. This is the only instance, with the exception of A. B. Thompson, supercargo of the "Loriot," that I remember, of an arrest in those days on a charge of evading the revenue laws. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On this trip the "Corsair" landed at Yerba Buena, consigned to Spear &amp; Hinckley, the machinery for a grist mill, from Callao, manufactured at Baltimore. Shortly after, the machinery was put up in a heavy-frame wooden building, two stories high, on the north side of Clay street, in the middle of a fifty vara lot between Kearny and Montgomery streets. This was the first grist mill in California. It was operated by six mules, Spear having some eighteen or twenty for this work. A man by the name of Daniel Sill was the miller. The mill made a considerable quantity of fine flour, from wheat raised by the rancheros round the bay, each of them having a patch, and some of them fields of good size. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The mill probably turned out twenty to twenty-five barrels of flour a day, which was put up in fifty and one-hundred-pound sacks and sold to farmers and to the vessels. A flour mill run by water was established about the same time at San Jos&eacute; by William Gulnac, an American, who married a Lower California lady. He first emigrated to Honolulu, with his family, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:and from there came to Monterey in the bark "Volunteer," in 1833. He went thence to San Jos&eacute;. Those two were the only flouring mills in the department for a long while. Prior to their establishment the ranchero made his flour by crushing the wheat by means of an apparatus composed of two circular stones a yard in diameter, set up out of doors near the kitchen of his house, a shaft being affixed to the upper stone and turned by mule power. The grain thus ground fell upon a platform about eight or ten feet in diameter, under the lower stone; a hopper was affixed to the upper stone, into which the wheat was poured. After a quantity had gone through this process it was ground over again two or three times in the same manner; the flour was then sifted out in hand sieves, and was ready for use. The poorer people who did not have a mill of this kind were provided with a <HI REND="italics">metate</HI>
025.sgm:, a flat stone, about 12x18 inches, with a little rim on the two long sides, and supported on three legs five or six inches high of unequal length, the flat surface inclining at an angle of about thirty-five degrees. The operator, resting on his knees, crushed and abraded the grain by moving a hand-stone forcibly downwards over the flat surface until the grain was well cracked. At the foot of the incline it fell into a dish placed beneath. The process was repeated several times and until the grain was sufficiently pulverized for use. If corn was crushed for <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
025.sgm:, or tamales, the whole of the grain was made use of. The <HI REND="italics">metate</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Sill, the miller, was an old mountaineer who had come across the plains in 1831 or '32, and lived about the bay of San Francisco, either at a Mission or with a ranchero. He was industrious and useful, possessed of a deal of common sense, but of no education; quiet and well behaved; a splendid hunter and marksman, having brought from his eastern home his old rifle, of a very primitive pattern, but unerring in execution in his hands. If he ever drew it upon a coon, a bear or a lark, the result was that the game had to come down. While employed as miller he was fond of going out Sunday mornings for a little hunt. I was often invited to accompany him. We would start about nine o'clock and go over to a place called Rincon, a flat between Rincon Hill and Mission Bay, and a resort for deer, the place being covered with a thick growth of scrub oak and willows, which afforded them good shelter. Presently, perhaps four or five deer would appear in sight, and Sill, drawing his old rifle to his shoulder, always got one. "Now, William," he would say, "go for the yellow horse." This was one of Spear's animals, and was known as the deer horse. I would go and saddle him, and ride over to the hunting ground. By that time, Sill usually had another deer. Slinging the two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The native Californians were not fond of hunting, and so the deer were little disturbed, save by the few hunters who came into the country from other parts. Sill spent a portion of his time in the Sacramento valley, trapping beaver and land-otter, for their skins, which were very valuable. He also killed elk, for their hides and tallow. There was a blacksmith's shop connected with the mill, and Sill, who had a natural aptitude for all trades, was the blacksmith as well as the miller, the first one in San Francisco. Afterward, old Frank Westgate was employed as blacksmith. He understood that work; but was a hard drinker. Sill remained as miller for Spear until about 1842 or '43, when his disposition to rove, impelled him to take his departure. He went to the upper Sacramento valley, and lived a while with Peter Lassen, a Dane, who had settled there under a grant. At times he stopped with some of the other settlers; with Sutter for a while at New Helvetia. As he always made himself useful, he was welcomed wherever he went. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About March, 1841, the Ecuadorian brig "J&oacute;ven Carolina," from Guayaquil, arrived, commanded by an Ecuadorian who was always known as Captain Miguelon, (which signifies large Michael.) The captain was of a broad and liberal nature, kind and humane in his treatment of the men on board his vessel; the friend of everybody; overflowing with good humor, though at the same time an excellent business man. Being one of the jolliest and best-natured of gentlemen, he took great delight in the society of ladies. They often visited him on board the brig. The vessel brought a cargo mostly of cocoa, with a quantity of coffee, from Central America, and some Peruvian commodities. She remained at Yerba Buena until November, disposing of the goods, all of them being sold in the bay, a portion to vessels trading on the coast. The Californians were fond of cocoa and chocolate; the manufacture of the latter from the cocoa was done by women, who prepared a choice article with the hand-mill or <HI REND="italics">metate</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The vessel went back to Guayaquil, and thence to Peru, with tallow. Shortly before she sailed, Captain Miguelon, who owned the vessel, urged me to go to Guayaquil with him, saying that on arrival there, I should be supercargo; we would then return to California and dispose of the goods. The offer was an excellent one, but I declined it, thinking I could do better by remaining where I was. </P>
025.sgm:<P>One day in January, 1842, after I had joined Captain Paty, as super. cargo, I started with Edward L. Stetson, the young clerk of the vessel, accompanied by a vaquero, from Don Domingo Peralta's rancho, near the present site of Berkeley, for the pueblo of San Jos&eacute;. Stetson had just come from Charlestown, Massachusetts. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>We resumed our horses, and on reaching the Mission of San Jos&eacute; were cordially welcomed by Father Muro. Stetson and the vaquero were furnished with clothing while their own was drying, the difficulty being to find garments which would accommodate Stetson's long limbs, and at the best the bottom of his pantaloons came half way up to the knee. Considerable merriment was had at his expense. We remained two nights, waiting for the Coyote creek to fall somewhat, as we had to cross that stream. The Coyote was not dangerous to cross, and we reached the old town of San Jos&eacute; without mishap. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There were no bridges in those days. In April, 1839, a bridal party, numbering twenty or thirty persons, went from Pinole to the Mission of San Jos&eacute;. In crossing San Leandro, San Lorenzo and Alameda creeks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIX  <HI REND="italics">H M. S. "Blossom" Discovers Blossom Rock</HI>
025.sgm:<P>DON MARTINEZ became comandante of the Presidio of San Francisco in 1819, succeeding Don Luis Argello, who was appointed provisional governor, and with his family lived at the Presidio. In later years I had a conversation with one of his daughters, Do&ntilde;a Encarnacion Altamirano, who, at the time above mentioned, was twelve years old. She remembers that there was a little <HI REND="italics">baluarte</HI>
025.sgm:, or fortification, of triangular shape, located near the intersection of Van Mess avenue and the bay shore, at what is now known as Black Point. The fort, she said, was mounted with a cannon pointing to the bay. There were no barracks at the place, no buildings of any kind. There was no guard, only this single gun mounted on the <HI REND="italics">baluarte</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In 1826 the ship "Blossom," a British man-of-war, Captain Beechey, visited the bay of San Francisco, and remained several weeks. The captain made the first discovery of the sunken obstruction to navigation known as Blossom Rock, which he named after his ship, and laid it down on his chart. I have known of a number. of vessels getting on this rock. In 1830 the East India ship "Seringapatam" came into the bay for supplies. She was loaded with East India goods--silks and other articles adapted to the Mexican trade, being bound to ports in Mexico. She remained a week or two. In leaving, she struck on the rock, and hung there until a change of tide; when she floated off and proceeded on her voyage. Being built <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>One of the characteristics of Californians in early days was the great respect which the children showed their parents. I have observed instances of this deference; among which, the son coming into the presence of his parents, in their own house, removed his hat with politeness, and always remained standing, perhaps in conversation with them, until he was asked to be seated. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Californians were not given to drinking, though fond of tobacco smoking, the habit being universal amongst the men. Sometimes the ladies of Southern California indulged in smoking in order to be sociable; and some of the women of Northern California were addicted to the same habit--a few among the lower classes. The Mexican ladies, however, were fond of smoking; the rich as well as the poor. This was the custom in their own country, and those who came to California brought it with them. The cigaritos which they smoked were small, made of delicate paper, and the tobacco very fine. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Mexican as well as the California ladies were noted for their small feet and hands, which is a characteristic of the Spanish race. The Mexican ladies when smoking were in the habit of holding the cigarito between the thumb and finger; the rich using a gold or silver holder, to prevent staining the fingers with the tobacco, and the poorer classes a holder made of <HI REND="italics">gamuza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>But, however, habituated to the indulgence, no boy or man, though the latter might be sixty years of age, ever smoked in the presence of his parents. I remember this regulation was conformed to while Don Ygnacio Peralta was one time visiting his father Don Luis, at the latter's house in the Pueblo of San Jos&eacute;; the son, then over sixty years, standing until the old gentleman requested him to be seated. During a long interview, in which they talked continually, the son, though ill at ease, refrained from smoking; the father meanwhile enjoying himself happily in that way; but such a breath of decorum and filial respect as for the other to smoke at the same time was not to be thought of. If a young man was smoking in the street, and met an old man coming along, so great was the feeling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Notions of propriety and morality were so strict among the people that young people engaged to be married were permitted little association by themselves. </P>
025.sgm:<P>They were scarcely allowed to see each other or to converse together, except in the presence of their parents. This was my own experience in an engagement of over two years. The courtship was usually arranged by the mother of the young lady, or sometimes a favorite aunt was sought and first consulted by the young gentleman who desired the daughter or niece in marriage. If the suitor was considered a worthy person by the father, the young lady was communicated with, after which a request in writing came from the young man to the father. If the application was deemed satisfactory he sent a written reply. Time, however, was taken for consideration, and no haste displayed. It would be an excellent thing if, in this respect, the old Spanish custom, having so much of simplicity and purity, prevailed to-day. Although the young ladies were not so highly educated as at the present time, yet on going into a family one could see at a glance that artlessness, affection and modesty were the characteristics of the feminine portion thereof, and these merits in my estimation transcend all others. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In November, 1838, having been invited to a wedding, together with Captain Hinckley I crossed the bay in the schooner "Isabel," and arrived just before sunset of a clear November afternoon, at the embarcadero on San Antonio creek, (East Oakland.) Reaching the landing, we were met by a younger brother of the bridegroom, mounted on a splendid black horse, both horse and rider being attired in the richest manner and presenting a very attractive sight. At the same time there appeared upon the brow of the hill, perhaps twenty yards away, a full <HI REND="italics">caponera of palominos</HI>
025.sgm:, or cream-colored horses, for the wedding cavalcade. They raised their heads, pausing a moment, startled it seemed at sight of the vessel, and as the bright sun struck full upon them, their colored bodies, of light golden hue, and dazzling manes, shone resplendent. The picture has ever since remained in my mind. They were attended by vaqueros, who cast their lassos and secured two of them for Captain Hinckley and myself, we having brought our saddles with us, a necessity in those days, though you were a guest. The bridegroom had two <HI REND="italics">caponeras</HI>
025.sgm: for the use of the bridal party; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:one of <HI REND="italics">canelos</HI>
025.sgm:<P>On returning from the wedding, which took place at the Mission of San Jos&eacute;, as the bridal party approached the mansion at Pinole, a salute of welcome was fired by the father of the bridegroom from a brass cannon, which he, as a military man, kept mounted in the little plaza in front of his dwelling for the protection of the family. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The spring was the dullest season of the year, as the cattle then became quite poor, and not many were killed. Cattle were killed for the use of the rancheros in winter. They were in good condition until spring. The merchants made collections of hides and tallow which accumulated from the slaughter for farm use. In the spring of 1840, business being quiet, I took the schooner "Isabel" over to Yerba Buena Island, now Goat Island, with four men, and camped there for a week; the men cutting the scrub oak on the Island, and filling up the schooner. Permission had been asked of the alcalde to go over and cut wood, which he had granted. I took my fishing tackle and books along. While the men were cutting wood, I fished from the shore, and passed a week very pleasantly as I have related elsewhere. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1842 or '43 Spear and Fuller having obtained possession of five or six goats from Captain Nye, of the ship "Fama," placed them upon Yerba Buena Island, by permission of the alcalde.  They found subsistence there, multiplied rapidly, and in 1848 and '49 amounted in number to several hundred. From this circumstance the place derived its name of Goat Island. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spear would occasionally send over to the Island to get a kid or two for his table, the meat being very palatable, and would invite the neighbors to partake. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the fall of '48 and the early part of '49, after the rush of adventurers to California in the gold excitement, some of them amused themselves by going over to Goat Island and shooting the goats. Meat was scarce, goat meat was considered acceptable, and commanded a good price. Spear and Fuller caused notices to be published in the newspapers forbidding the killing of the goats by trespassers; but those who thought it fine sport to shoot the goats scampering over the island, wholly wild and untamed, gave no heed to the notices. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After this commenced, Spear said to me one day, "Give me my price for my half interest in the goats on the Island." I replied that I did not need them. He said that he did not want to be bothered, and I had better take them, whereupon, to oblige the old gentlemen, I gave him a previously stipulated sum for the goats. It proved a poor investment, for nearly all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Old Jack Fuller, by which name he was familiarly known, was an Englishman, and an excellent cook. He had been employed by Spear in that capacity. He was also a butcher, and on special occasions, such as festivals, acted as caterer, and could get up an excellent dinner or feast when required. He was well liked by everybody, and met with great success in this line of business. He came originally with Spear to the coast in the schooner "Thaddeus," from Boston, in 1823. He owned property on Kearny street, cornering on Sacramento and California streets, which became valuable about the time of his death. Old Jack was always good natured, and never dangerous, but would occasionally imbibe too much and run off the track. While in this condition he was given to the most astounding stories, of an innocent kind, however, and that never harmed anybody. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1843 I erected on the beach, between Clay and California streets, about midway between Montgomery and Sansome, a large hide shed, roughly built of boards, securely inclosed and convenient, so at high tide the vessels that brought hides to the place could come right to the door of the house and deliver them. In the summer of '44 I had about 4,000 hides collected there, awaiting shipment. On the afternoon of the 18th of August there came a heavy rain, which lasted continuously for eighteen hours, quite as severe as rains in December or January, very remarkable for a summer in California. As the house was not built for protection against the rains, but only for summer use, my hides got thoroughly wet through, as did those of other persons who had houses near and at other points on the bay. I was obliged to take them all out and dry them on the beach. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Captain Grimes was settled at Sacramento on his ranch he still made his headquarters at Yerba Buena with Spear, and when here occupied Kent Hall. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The captain, though temperate, and never getting the worse for liquor, was fond of a glass now and then, as most old captains are, and always kept a liquor case well supplied with the choicest brands of liquors. This was known to his friends, and it was always considered a treat to join the old gentleman in a glass. Kent Hall and the liquor case became quite a byword among his associates. Various expedients were used to get the captain into good humor preliminary to taking advantage of the hospitality, and many purely original yarns were given out as sober fact for his entertainment and edification. Looking sternly over his spectacles at the narrator he would refuse to lend a willing ear, or would apply to their talk some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XL  <HI REND="italics">Don Francisco Guerrero Gives a Strawberry "Blow out</HI>
025.sgm:<P>LITTLE festivals and recreations among neighbors, without much formality, were usual with the California families, there being scarcely any amusements. On the hills toward the ocean, between the Presidio and Fort Point, and south as far as Lake Lobos, there were large patches of wild strawberries, which grew very plentifully and ripened in the spring. At that time families would resort to the place for the purpose of gathering and partaking of the fruit, camping out for several days at a time; many coming from the surrounding country north and south of the bay, and as far as Sonoma and Santa Clara. This innocent and healthful recreation was a great enjoyment. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I joined a party gathering strawberries, in 1844, the camp consisting of the families of Wm. G. Rae, Captain Richardson, Nathan Spear, Captain Prado Mesa, Don Francisco Guerrero, Bob Ridley and some others. Other camps were scattered about in the neighborhood. The little village of Yerba Buena was nearly depopulated for the time. We were absent about a week. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Before the camp broke up that year, Don Francisco Guerrero gave a grand <HI REND="italics">merienda</HI>
025.sgm: or picnic, in a little valley north of our camp, looking toward the ocean. He provided, among other things, several bullocks and calves, which were prepared as <HI REND="italics">carne asada</HI>
025.sgm: --meat roasted on spits over a bed of coals--this being much superior to other modes of cooking the meat. Guerrero invited to this festival all the people who were camped on the strawberry grounds, numbering several hundred men, women and children; and they enjoyed themselves heartily. Rae, Spear and myself insisted on furnishing the wine for the occasion, although Guerrero had intended doing it himself. While camping, we were visited by W. D. M. Howard and Henry Mellus, supercargos and agents of vessels, and by other super-cargoes and captains of vessels in port at the time. Their visit added greatly to the variety and enjoyment of the occasion. Most prominent among those furnishing fun and amusement for the camp was Howard.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>On the way home, after the breaking up of the camp, our special company halted at the Mission Dolores. Here Guerrero gave a <HI REND="italics">baile</HI>
025.sgm:<P>These gatherings commenced with the first settlement of the country by the Spaniards, the Indians making known the place the strawberries grew. After the custom of camping had been inaugurated, it was regularly kept up year after year, and continued until the change of government and the country became thickly settled. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain John Paty first visited this coast in the schooner "Clarion" from Boston, in 1836. This schooner was afterward the "California." She was sold to Governor Alvarado for the use of the government. Captain Paty, who had been a sailor all his life, was probably as good a navigator as ever lived. He had visited nearly all parts of the world, and was very popular in California, much liked by everybody; also highly regarded by the officers of the local government. The government employed him several times, with his vessel. He took Micheltorena and his troops from California to San Blas. Subsequently Se&ntilde;or Castillero, in April 1846, went in Paty's vessel to San Blas, as commissioner, sent by Governor Pico to treat with the home government on some business. Paty was fond of letter writing, and in his communications with friends at the East he spoke well of the climate, soil, advantages and capabilities of California, and dwelt upon the benefit which would result if the American government should obtain possession, and what a misfortune it would be if it should fall into the hands of any other power. After the change of government he and some others started a line of packets between San Francisco and Honolulu. They afterward combined with J. C. Merrill &amp; Co. in the business. His line was the first started between these places. Captain Paty commanded one of the vessels, and his vessel was so popular as a carrier, that he took a great many persons between these ports. They would wait to go with him, he being a favorite. On his arrival in San Francisco, on the completion of his hundredth voyage between this port and the Islands, about 1865 or '66, the event was celebrated by his many good friends in San Francisco by a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Theodore Cordua, a Prussian, came to the coast in the "Don Quixote," from Honolulu, as a passenger in 1842, his first visit here. He was an old acquaintance of Captain Sutter in his native country. When Sutter settled in the Sacramento valley, he corresponded with Cordua and urged him to come here. After his arrival he visited Sutter. Through the latter's influence he was granted eleven leagues of land by the Mexican government, first having become naturalized. The grant was made to him by Micheltorena. The tract in the Sacramento valley known as the Cordua ranch is a part of his grant. He was a large, portly man, and a general favorite with everybody. He spoke excellent English. Whenever he came to Yerba Buena he was much sought after by the people, on account of his companionable qualities, being a great whist player, and very fond of the game. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There was another German, Charles W. Flgge, who came in 1843, and went to Sutter's place. He was intelligent, and a thorough business man, but exceedingly high-tempered; was an intimate friend of Cordua, both being from the same country. Flgge opened a store at New Helvetia in company with Sutter. He knew nothing of Spanish on his arrival, but by diligent study, and intercourse with the Indians about the fort, (many of whom were old Mission Indians, and had learned Spanish) he became proficient in that language, and wrote and spoke it fluently. In 1844 he went to Los Angeles and established himself in business with James McKinley. At that time I bought of him for $40 the fifty vara lot at the northwest corner of California and Montgomery streets, where Wells, Fargo &amp; Co.'s office was situated for many years.<ANCHOR ID="n40-8">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n40-8">The site of Davis' four story brick building mentioned elsewhere; and now occupied by the "Financial Center Building."</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>The Californians of the present day are a good deal degenerated, as compared with their fathers--the old stock, as I found them when I first came to the country, and for several years succeeding, up to the time of the change of government in 1846. I distinctly remember how they impressed me, when I first saw them, as a boy in 1831 and 1833--a race of men of large stature and of fine, handsome appearance. There are several causes for the deterioration in these people which is now so apparent, the chief of which is the unjust treatment they received from the American government, in the matter of their landed property. Before the change of government, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>After the discovery of gold, when the people came in large numbers, this good fortune continued for a time, until the Californians had troubles in regard to their land titles, arising first from the inroads of squatters, who trespassed upon their ranchos, took possession of considerable portions of the land, drove off cattle, interfered with the grazing, annoyed and despoiled the ranchos, and invaded the rights of the possessors. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The first settlers had to fight with the Indians for possession of the land, and some of them lost their lives in the conflicts. The treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo recognized the rights of the Californians to their lands under the Mexican titles; but by subsequent legislation of Congress they were required to prove their titles before the United States Land Commission and the Courts. This was an unnecessary hardship imposed upon them, and involved them in ligitation and expense, which was a new and perplexing experience, even if no unfair advantage had been taken of them. They did not understand our language, and in order to be properly represented before the commission and the courts, they were obliged to employ American counsel. Many of these lawyers were quite unscrupulous, and took advantage of the Californians, who were honest and simple-hearted. Where they could not pay ready money for the legal services which were charged at a high rate, the lawyers required promissory notes of them. When the notes became due, and remained unpaid, the holders attached their land and obtained possession of it. The depredations of the squatters continued and of others also, who by one means or another had obtained possession; or the owners were so much involved in efforts to defend themselves that they became dispirited, crushed, poor and miserable. The sons of noble families grew up in want and poverty; became dissipated and demoralized. Thus the old stock rapidly deteriorated and went into decay. The subject of the land troubles of the Californians will be further alluded to. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>A few old California families have retained a considerable portion of their property. They have maintained their dignity and pride. They are the same as in the earlier days, unchanged, kind, hospitable and honorable. I may mention as among these exceptions, Don Francisco Galindo, the owner of the Galindo Hotel in Oakland. His father died some years ago, nearly one hundred years of age. (1890)  Recently (1888) in San Diego, I met the widow of Captain John Paty. She was on a visit to one of her married daughters who resided there, the wife of Lieutenant Benson, of the United States army. Another daughter married a lieutenant in the United States navy, and lived at Vallejo. I remarked to the mother that she was represented in the American government. I found her a well preserved lady of over sixty, plump and fine looking. She had recently arrived from Honolulu, near which she then resided. The lady had a beautiful home in Nuuanu valley, at the foot of which is Honolulu. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mrs. Paty came to the Islands the first time in 1834, in the brig "Avon," of about one hundred and eighty tons, commanded by her husband. In 1836, Mrs. Paty returned to Boston with her husband. On this trip the bark was loaded with sperm-oil, from the wreck of an American whaleship. The outer harbor of Honolulu is nothing more than an open roadstead, exposed to southerly winds. The whaler driven from her mooring there on to a reef, was unable to get off, and finally went to pieces, the cargo of oil being saved. While the "Don Quixote" was moored at long wharf in Boston, on this trip, the bark "Cervantes" was at the same pier, the two vessels almost touching each other. This was thought to be a singular coincidence, meeting of barks having such memorable names,--one the actor and the other the writer, so renowned throughout the civilized world. The two captains were proud of their vessels, and both became great friends during their stay in Boston. Mrs. Paty made her home at Honolulu after 1837, and while her husband was engaged in trading between the Islands, Valparaiso and Callao, and the coast of California. In 1842 she accompanied him from Honolulu, and arrived at Monterey about June. She went in the vessel south and back again to Monterey, arriving there in October, 1842, just after Commodore Jones had taken and given it up, as before described. She was from Charlestown, Massachusetts; a woman of fine character, good education, of great intelligence and with excellent conversational powers. I think she was the third American lady who came to this coast; Mrs. T. O. Larkin and Mrs. Nathan Spear preceding her. She was a pioneer of whom the country might well be proud. These ladies being then the only American women on the coast were treated with the greatest courtesy and distinction by the officers of the United States squadron. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>On arriving at Monterey, she was invited to the flag-ship, and entertained in the pleasantest manner. The invitation was several times repeated, the presence of the ladies being considered a great compliment to those aboard the vessel. It certainly was a most agreeable surprise and gratification to the officers to find in this remote part of the world some of their country-women, so refined and intelligent. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I was present on one of the occasions aboard the flag-ship, when Mrs. Paty remarked in a facetious manner, "What a pity, Commodore Jones, that you gave up this beautiful department, after having taken possession." He replied that he would gladly have kept it, but he was compelled to relinquish it; that he took it in order not to be behind time, in case the British contemplated a similar movement, supposing at the time that war existed between the United States and Mexico; but he had found this was an error; having no good reason for holding on, he gave it up. When I told Mrs. Paty, at my last interview, that I should give a sketch of her husband in an account of California and its people, she expressed her gratification, and said she hoped I would do him full justice, for he was deserving of everything I could say in his favor. She added, "You must call him Commodore Paty, and not simply Captain Paty." </P>
025.sgm:<P>In February, 1846, the king of the Sandwich Islands conferred on Captain Paty the title of Commodore, officially, and he became to some extent the representative of the Sandwich Islands to protect their interests on this coast. He wore on special occasions the Hawaiian uniform. The merchants of San Francisco recognized and confirmed his title of Commodore. Among themselves they bestowed on him the title of Commodore of all the fleet trading between the Islands and this port. </P>
025.sgm:<P>He was a kind-hearted man. I never knew him to refuse a favor to any one, though often he complied, when appealed to, much against his own interests. As his agent and business man, I was mindful of his customers-as to their reliability, and while always ready to trust native Californians for whatever goods they wanted, knowing they would be sure to pay for them, I found it was not best to trust such foreign residents as were of doubtful financial responsibility. Men of this character would come to me and ask for credit, which I was compelled to refuse. They would then sometimes go to Paty himself, stating their case; and he, full of the milk of human kindness, could not find it in his heart to refuse them. He would call me aside and say he thought we should accommodate them. I would remonstrate, and declare that we might as well charge the items to profit and loss account at once; that it was about the same as giving the goods away; that I knew it was for his interest not to, but if he gave me a peremptory order to deliver them, I would do so. "Well," he would say, "I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>On some of these occasions Mrs. Paty was present, and, being of a firmer disposition than her husband in business matters, would intimate to the captain that it was foolish to interfere in behalf of the impecunious customers. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The doubtful purchasers were not those who had settled and built up homes, but mostly runaway sailors, some of whom used to go to the redwoods about the bay and to the redwoods of Santa Cruz and Monterey to cut lumber for building purposes, there being no saw-mills in the department. They were rather uncertain and roving. Few of them settled down and became permanent residents. They generally spent money as fast as it was earned. The hunters and trappers who came across the mountains and remained in California were of a different type; and though lacking in the graces of civilization, were honorable, and true to their word, sober, and industrious in the line of their occupation (most of them continuing as hunters and trappers), and we could trust them confidently, knowing if they wanted goods they would pay. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the time of Commodore Wilkes' stay in the harbor of San Francisco, Captain Paty was here with his vessel. Having traveled extensively all over the world, and being an old sailor and splendid navigator, Wilkes enjoyed his society. Many of 'the places where Wilkes had been and others to which he intended to go, Paty had visited. He often went aboard the flag-ship to spend a few hours, when the two navigators would interchange ideas. Wilkes obtained information from him in regard to the Pacific ocean and its islands, and the places at which he intended to touch. Paty was pleased with Wilkes because of his scientific acquirements, the old commodore making the interviews instructive, as he always did to the few for whom he felt respect and in whom he had confidence. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mrs. Paty recalled to my mind, at San Diego, an incident which took place at the grand entertainment given by the citizens of Monterey, upon the restoration of the town to the Mexican authorities, after the capture by Commodore Jones. Captain Armstrong, of the flag-ship, was a heavy man, and Captain Paty was small and wiry. Both were fond of dancing, and there was an animated contest between them to see who could waltz the longest, to the amusement of the company. They continued on the floor a long time, the California ladies seeming never to tire of dancing. Paty secured a victory over his big rival, who succumbed to fatigue. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Another incident was also brought to mind. When Micheltorena and his troops were conveyed to San Blas, calling at Monterey, she quit the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Wolfskill, of Los Angeles, above mentioned, had a vineyard which was then in good bearing, and second only in importance to that of Vignes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During her stay at Los Angeles Mrs. Paty visited an Indian woman living in the neighborhood, 130 years of age, and found her well preserved and in possession of her faculties, but her face was extremely wrinkled, and resembled a piece of dried and crinkled parchment. She presented the appearance of a living mummy. She recalled the arrival of the first missionaries to the coast, being then a full-grown woman. Mrs. Paty had also found at Santa Barbara, previously, an Indian woman 116 years of age. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mrs. Paty was as fully intelligent as her talented husband. She wrote many letters to her friends East, gentlemen as well as ladies, describing the country here, and setting forth its beauties, thus doing a great deal to make it known to the rich and influential citizens of Boston and elsewhere. She did as much in this respect, and did as well, as any man could have done. Prior to my wife's marriage, she and Mrs. Paty were friends, and in 1849 Mrs. Paty lived with us while her husband was away on one of his voyages. Recently they met at San Diego, and were delighted to see each other and talk over old times. Since Captain Paty's death great respect and polite attention by the captains of steamers and vessels on this coast, who held the commodore in high honor, had been accorded his widow, who was much gratified at this kindly regard for his memory. She had a son at Honolulu, John Henry Paty, a partner in the banking house of Bishop &amp; Company.  </P>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLI  <HI REND="italics">Holy Days and Holidays</HI>
025.sgm:<P>MRS. BENNETT arrived in Yerba Buena, from Missouri, about 1842, with her husband and a large family of children. I mention her first, as she was unmistakably the head of the family,--a large, powerful woman, uncultivated, but well-meaning and very industrious. Her word was law, and her husband stood in becoming awe of her. Their children were respectably brought up, the family being supported by sewing, washing, ironing; raising chickens, turkeys and ducks. I trusted her for goods frequently, not knowing, or caring much, whether they were ever paid for; but they always were. She was an honest, good woman, and while not regarded as an equal by the better cultivated and more aristocratic ladies, she was always pleasantly received in their houses; as foreign ladies were scarce and class distinctions not rigidly observed.  The carnival festival which is celebrated with merriment and revelry in Catholic countries during the week preceding Lent, was observed by the Californians. They had various little entertainments; among them, dancing parties; a supper served late in the evening being one of the agreeable features of these gatherings. The Californians made the most of all their festivals, and, according to their usual habits, observed this one fully, giving themselves up to amusement during its continuance. </P>
025.sgm:<P>One of the amusements the Californians brought with them from Spain and Mexico, was the custom during the carnival season each year, of breaking upon the heads of the opposite sex, egg-shells filled with fine scraps of pretty-colored silver or gold paper, or with cologne water, or some harmless and agreeable substance. It was in the nature of a game or trick played upon one another, the idea being to catch the victim unawares, and gently smash the egg and distribute its contents over the head. A gentleman, for instance, would call upon a lady, and be pleasantly received and entertained. When his attention was attractively occupied, the fair hostess would deftly tap his head with the egg, which, breaking, would cover his head with the bright scraps of paper, or with the cologne; and a good laugh would ensue <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>At this festival in 1841, I remember calling upon Se&ntilde;orita Do&ntilde;a Encarnacion Briones, living at North Beach, who afterward became Mrs. Robert Ridley, a sprightly and pretty girl. I was provided with eight or ten of these festival eggs, hoping to break some of them upon the head of my entertainer, but notwithstanding my skillful designing and planning, I entirely failed to dispose of one of them, while she, on the contrary, by her wit and cunning, got the advantage of me, and broke several upon my head, throwing me off guard by her fascinations and feminine artifices. On my taking leave, feeling somewhat chagrined at my want of success, she playfully remarked, in the most graceful manner, " <HI REND="italics">Usted vino a trasquilar, pero fu&eacute; trasquilado</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Mrs. Paty, Mrs. Larkin, Mrs. Spear, Mrs. Rae and the other ladies took delight in this amusement. Wm. D. M. Howard, who was ready for any fun, enjoyed the diversion greatly, and had great satisfaction in performing the feat of egg-breaking. The ladies, at the same time, regarded it as quite a victory when they secured the advantage of him. Henry and Francis Mellus were considered as ladies' men and were very fond of this sport. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The captains, supercargoes and merchants here at the time regarded carnival week as a kind of visiting season, similar to our New Year's day. The ladies at this time were prepared for calls from the gentleman. The festival was anticipated with pleasure. At the parties which took place egg-breaking was practiced; the contra-dances, waltzes and quadrilles were chiefly danced. There was a very ancient dance known as the <HI REND="italics">jota</HI>
025.sgm:, which was more particularly for the older people. As the dancing went on, all kinds of devices and schemes were contrived to break the eggs, but without interfering with the figures. The ladies at these times wore their hair <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The season was observed with somewhat more display and pretension at Monterey and Los Angeles than elsewhere, the former being the capital, and the latter the largest town in the department. Picnic parties were attended at Point Pinos, near Monterey, the people taking with them baskets of choice eatables and enjoying the day. The ladies and gentlemen at these out-door parties would watch for opportunities to break carnival eggs. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the festival in 1843, the Sport of egg-breaking with a party of ladies and gentlemen, in the courtyard, went beyond its legitimate bounds; those engaged finally commenced throwing water at each other, Mrs. Bennett being the leader of the feminines in the innovation. The practice of this amusement in the street, however, was entirely confined to those of the humbler position; and it happened but rarely. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The three holy days of Lent, <HI REND="italics">Jueves Santo, Viernes Santo, Sabado de Gloria</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The ship "Alert" arrived at the beginning of 1840, from Boston, in command of Captain William D. Phelps, the vessel and cargo consigned to Alfred Robinson and Henry Mellus. Captain Phelps was a Boston man, an extensive traveler, and became popular on the coast. My brother Robert and myself were once invited to spend an evening on board the "Alert," when Captain Phelps entertained us with an account of his travels over the world. He said that while his vessel lay in the Mediterranean Sea, he conceived a great desire to visit Jerusalem--which he found means to gratify, so impressed was he with that city and its relation to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Captain Phelps was an excellent shot with the rifle, very fond of hunting deer, elk, rabbits, ducks, geese, quail and other birds; and kept his vessel in game while in port. Being an epicure, he always selected the choicest game to supply his table and that of his friends-Rae, Spear and Others. Phelps approaching the store on landing of mornings from the vessel, would meet Spear on the outside, leaning against the gate near the water, looking for the captain. The latter would call out, "Good morning, Don Natan," (foreigners having adopted the California style of addressing each other by their first names) and Spear would respond in the same cordial way. Captain Phelps had a curious peculiarity of hesitating and stammering as he commenced to talk, his right cheek quivering rapidly until he got along farther in his speech and warmed up a little, when his language came fluently and the pulsation of the face ceased. He was a good observer, and a man of excellent judgment, and also entitled to much credit, with others heretofore mentioned, for making California known on the Atlantic side, by letters, recording his observations and experiences. They were well written, and calculated to make a good impression in regard to the department of California. He frequently read to us portions of the letters, and we recognized their truthfulness and his happy mode of communicating impressions of the country. He also visited Wilkes, and was handsomely entertained, and, like Paty, became a favorite of the commodore. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In speaking of those who did so much by their correspondence in the early days, to make California known, I want to give credit to the ladies and gentlemen, especially Mrs. Paty among the former, from Massachusetts. The vessels which came to trade in the earliest days were almost exclusively from Boston. It was from their officers that the best information regarding the new country was communicated to the National authorities, who were thus made alive to the necessity of keeping an eye on the distant territory, as having a bearing upon the growth and security of the Republic. It doubtless led to the frequent visits, and afterward almost constant presence, of United States vessels of war with unquestionably a purpose in view. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLII  <HI REND="italics">Yankee Turkey Shooting at Christmas</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE New Englanders and other foreigners were fond of keeping up the custom of turkey-shooting on Christmas eve. A shooting match of the kind occurred on Christmas, 1841, at which were present William G. Rae, Captain Phelps, William S. Hinckley, Vioget, Nathan Spear, Henry Mellus, my brother Robert, myself and others; all taking part in the sport. Captain Phelps had left his rifle in the corner of Spear's store on the night of shooting the turkeys. The second day, the 26th, he came ashore about breakfast time. The captain took up the rifle, confident that it was not loaded, but had been discharged when last in use. Placing a cap on the nipple, he told my brother to hold the muzzle against his (Phelps') ear and pull the trigger, so that he might feel if any air came from the gun and thereby ascertain if it was clean. My brother obeyed. The cap exploded, but the gun was not fired. He put on another cap, and told my brother to hold his hand out straight. The captain then placed the muzzle in the center of the palm, pulled the trigger and fired. This time a ball came out, passing through Robert's hand, through the wall separating the store from the dining-room, and through the opposite wall, lodging in an adobe beyond. On taking a line between the two bullet holes in the dining-room it was ascertained that if Mrs. Spear had occupied her seat at the breakfast table the bullet would have passed directly through her chest. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The chief Christmas amusements of the Californians were horse-racing and cock-fighting. The finest Christmas dinners I ever partook of were at their tables. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Among the early vessels which came to the coast was the ship "Eagle," of Boston, owned and commanded by my father, William Heath Davis. The middle name was given to him by his uncle, General Heath, one of Washington's fighting generals of revolutionary times. The vessel was brought by him to the Sandwich Islands about 1814, thence sailed over to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>On trips to California he went into some of the less prominent ports. At the time he was accompanied by his wife the vessel called in at Refugio, a rancho about fifteen or twenty miles west of Santa Barbara. Many of the wealthier Californians came to this place and purchased from the vessel choice articles of merchandise, as also did the Padres. The captain did not take hides and tallow in payment, but the rancheros and the priests brought with them bags of Spanish doubloons, and paid for their purchases in coin, or in sea otter skins, which were then plentiful. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Padres were the chief customers of the vessels, and spent freely from their well-filled coin bags or from their ample stores of otter skins which they had accumulated. They did what they could to stimulate and increase the hunting of the sea otters, inducing the Californians and others who were skilled in the work to go out and shoot them; frequently fitting out the boats and furnishing and paying the hunters themselves or buying the skins from men not in their employ. The otters were taken largely in the bay of San Francisco and all along the coast. The Padres considered themselves the rightful owners, and were jealous of the Russians, who at that time were making immense fortunes out of the business; and so did all they could to get a portion of it into their own hands. They collected the skins for the enrichment of the Missions, being desirous of making their Missions wealthy, and conducting them in an extensive and liberal manner,--with thousands of Indians around to civilize and Christianize. They also had immense herds of cattle and horses to look after. Seeing this opportunity to add to their wealth, they eagerly availed themselves of it. The goods which they bought from the vessel were not for their personal use and enjoyment, but most of them were resold to the rancheros at a profit, and so helped to swell the funds of the Missions over which they presided. The good Fathers had no strong boxes in those days to keep their coin and other valuables in; they concealed their treasure under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>While trading at this trip, my mother was much interested in observing the Padres, clad in their peculiar dress, and also the rancheros, with their fine costumes and equipments. The vessel, at Refugio, was visited by Don Ygnacio Martinez, then comandante of the Presidio of Santa Barbara. Learning that a strange vessel was anchored twenty miles to the west, he, in his official capacity, dressed in full military costume, accompanied by an officer and two soldiers, went off to the vessel, where he was received in the most friendly and gracious manner, and entertained with sumptuous dinners. He afterward said he was overwhelmed by the kindness and entertainment he met with on board the vessel, and that he could only accept half what was proffered with such grace and generosity. My mother, in describing the occurrences to me recounted the admirable appearance of the comandante, and that she never saw so many piles of gold (Spanish doubloons) as were collected on board the vessel,--the result of sales of goods to the rancheros and Padres. Speaking of these events to me and asked how much my father realized from his cargo, she said, many thousands in gold, and a large number of sea otter skins, which were taken to China, where they brought from $80 to $100 each. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Martinez saw me the first time, in Yerba Buena, at Spear's store, in 1838, and, without introduction, came forward and embraced me cordially, saying, "I am sure you are the son of Don Guillermo Davis, whom I knew, and whose vessel I had visited"; and expatiated upon the kind treatment he had received on board. He had recognized me by my likeness to my father. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain John Meek commanded and owned a part of the "Don Quixote" when on this coast in 1832, that vessel being then engaged in trading between here and the Sandwich Islands. Meek was among the early pioneers, having arrived in the ship "Eagle," as first officer, with my father, about 1816. He made two voyages subsequently in the same position on the same vessel. He was from Marblehead, Massachusetts. He has stated to me that my father's voyages in the "Eagle" were very successful; and that on each voyage he realized about $25,000 profit, in Spanish doubloons and sea otter.skins, from sales in California, aside from profits in the Russian settlements. He said that my father's vessel was among the first that came from Boston to trade here (perhaps the very first), which gave him a great advantage, as he had no rivalry or competition; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Captain Meek discoursed to me upon the fine appearance of the California men, and the beauty of the women. He remembered Don Ygnacio Martinez and his visit to the "Eagle" when stopping at Refugio, as before described. In one of his first voyages here in the "Don Quixote," he received a present from Martinez, who was then comandante of the Presidio at San Francisco, of three heifers and a young bull, in recognition of the kindness of my father and Captain Meek to him during his visits to the "Eagle." On his return to the Islands, Captain Meek carried these animals with him. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1871 I visited Honolulu and called on the captain, and the history of these cattle was recounted, he having then between four and five thousand head on his "Big Tree Rancho," about thirty miles from Honolulu. He had been supplying that city and the foreign men-of-war, and other vessels, for many years with beef cattle-all from the increase of the little band presented to him by Martinez. In later years the stock had been improved by the introduction of blooded bulls from England and the United States. At the time of receiving the cattle from Martinez, the captain presented to his daughter, then Mrs. Estudillo, a China camphor-wood trunk, covered with black leather, with the captain's initials (J. M.) upon it, which were also the initials of the recipient's maiden name--Juana Martinez. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During this visit I saw a California horse, from Santa Barbara, thirty-three years old, which had been in color a dark iron-gray, but was then nearly milk white, from his great age. He was perfectly sound, and Captain Meek drove him nearly every day round the city. He was about sixteen hands high. With the exception of a slight rheumatism in his hind legs, the horse had remained well during the many years of the captain's ownership. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About 1833 Don Antonio Jos&eacute; Cot, a Spanish merchant of the department, chartered and loaded the "Don Quixote" with tallow, for Callao, Peru. She there took aboard an assorted cargo, and proceeded thence to Honolulu, where she landed a portion of it, and came to this coast with the remainder. On this trip from Callao to the Islands she averaged 200 miles a day for nearly the whole distance, the quickest passage known at that time. I doubt whether any sailing vessel has beaten it since. She was a very fast sailer, noted for speedy voyages. Once she went from Boston to Smyrna, on the Mediterranean Sea, and back to Boston, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>When Mrs. Estudillo's father returned from his visit to the "Eagle" at the Refugio, bringing with him the fine presents he had received, and the purchases he had made-silks, satins, crape shawls, fancy silk handkerchiefs, satin shoes, sewing silk of all colors, and other elegant finery of various kinds, with beautiful articles of lacquered ware, she and the family were quite overcome with astonishment and delight, for they had never seen anything so rich and beautiful. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Refugio was the rancho of the Ortega family. The "Eagle" arriving there the first time, my father was very watchful and cautious, as it was a strange coast, and he didn't know how he would be received. On his visits to the Russian Settlements, at the north, he had obtained such information as he could in regard to California, the Missions, etc. His purpose in coming here was to secure as many sea otter skins as possible, and to enter into communication with the Padres. He therefore went as near to Santa Barbara and the other Missions in that part of the country as he thought prudent, and anchored off the rancho of Ortega. Noticing that some of the people had come down to the beach to investigate, he questioned if it would be safe to go ashore, not knowing but he and his crew might be made prisoners. The strangers appearing harmless and quiet, he and his second officer ventured off from the ship in a boat, and introducing himself in Spanish, he was courteously received. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Asked what the vessel was doing there, my father replied that he would like some beef for the ship's use. He engaged in conversation with the Californians in their own language, and invited Se&ntilde;or Ortega on board the ship. The invitation was accepted, and he was entertained on board. On leaving the vessel he was presented with a number of choice and elegant articles from the cargo, which not-only pleased him, but had an excellent effect upon the Californians in leading them to favorably regard their visitors. Information of the vessel's arrival was communicated to Santa Barbara, which resulted in the comandante's coming up, as before described. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The presents he received, increased the good opinion of the inhabitants for the new comers, and no difficulty whatever was encountered after such happy beginning of the acquaintance. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the three voyages of the "Eagle" to this coast, stopping at Refugio each time, my father collected, in payment for goods sold, beside the money received, about 1500 sea otter skins, allowing in barter $30 for each. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIII  <HI REND="italics">Franciscan Fathers First Class Merchants</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE Padres had stores at the Missions, to supply the wants of the Indians, as well as the Californians in the employ of the Missions. Their stock was necessarily large. They also supplied the rancheros with goods, taking in payment hides, tallow, fur and cattle. They also traded with the fur hunters, and gave in exchange for skins, goods and also gold and silver coin. The Fathers were first-class merchants. When they made purchases from vessels trading on the coast, they exhibited good judgment in their selections and were close buyers. The "Volunteer," in 1833, sold to the Missions bordering on the bay considerable quantities of goods, for cash. I remember that our supercargo, Sherman Peck, spoke of the missionaries as shrewd purchasers, and strictly reliable men. It was a pleasure to deal with them. The Padres, bought goods cheaper than the rancheros; their purchases being always larger, a reduction was made in prices, as a matter of policy, and to encourage good relations already existing. </P>
025.sgm:<P>One Mission would assist another with hides and tallow, or with fur, skins, or money, in payment for goods which it had purchased. The priest sometimes gave an order on another Mission, in favor of the supercargo, to furnish what was required. While my father was trading at the Refugio, the vessel had to wait several days, for payment for a portion of the goods sold to the Mission of Santa Barbara. Having paid over such gold and otter skins as it had on hand, this Mission sent out to the Mission of San Buenaventura at the east, and Santa Ynez on the west, for a further supply of skins, and coin, to pay for the balance of the goods. These numerous Missions were in reality one institution, with a common interest. The advancement of one was the general good and welfare of all. The goods purchased by one Mission were sometimes sent to others, partly for use, and in part for sale, as the range of distribution was thus widened. When one Mission had furnished another with money, or fur skins, or hides, or tallow, to assist it in paying for a large purchase, although <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The Padres were the original pioneers of California, beyond all others. They have left behind them, as mementos of their zeal and industry in the work in which they were engaged, the Missions they built and conducted, besides other evidences, less tangible, of their influence for the welfare of the people of California and the whole world. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It is a curious fact that nearly all the men prominent in otter and beaver hunting in the early days of California were from the southern, or slave states, of the Union. Isaac J. Sparks, of Santa Barbara, who died some years ago, was from Kentucky; also George Nidever, who lived at Santa Barbara. Lewis T. Burton, of Santa Barbara, who died in May, 1870, was a native of Tennessee, and arrived in Santa Barbara in 1833, or before, and followed the occupation of otter hunting until it was no longer profitable.  Samuel J. Hensley, of San Francisco and San Jos&eacute;, who at one time was president of the California Steam Navigation Company, and who died some years since, was from a southern state. Daniel Sill was a native of Kentucky, as was also Isaac Graham.<ANCHOR ID="n43-9">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n43-9">See note page 47.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>P. B. Reading, who was the Whig candidate for governor of California against John Bigler in 1851, was a native of Canada, of English parentage, but, I believe, lived in a southern state in early life. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The four last named followed the profession of trapping beavers and land-otters on the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers and tributaries. These men were experts in the pursuit of fur-producing animals, and were the earliest trappers of Anglo-Saxon extraction. They made a good deal of money; beavers and otters being numerous at that time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Among the early otter hunters in California was George Yount, who came from Missouri, probably about 1831 or '32, and settled in Napa valley. Tim Black came from Scotland about the same time, and lived at San Rafael. Timothy Murphy also resided at San Rafael. Francis Branch, who arrived in Santa Barbara in 1833, and afterward removed to San Luis Obispo, where he owned a large ranch, was a native of one of the New England states. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The priests had instructed some of the Mission Indians before the arrival of the early foreigners, in the work of trapping otters. The Missions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>During my business intercourse with the Father in charge of the Mission San Jos&eacute; I received from him in the year 1844 several thousand dollars' worth of beaver and land-otter skins which had been collected by his Indians on, the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. On my visiting the Mission Dolores in 1833 with Mr. Peck, supercargo, and Captain Shaw, of the bark "Volunteer," we went into the "otter-room," so-called, a large apartment in the upper story or attic of the building. From the rafters and additional light timbers which had been placed across the room were hung the otter skins which the Mission had collected and had on hand at that time; there being probably eighty to one hundred ready for sale, or exchange in trade. We got them all. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Otter skins were preserved on board vessels taking them to China, in empty rum casks, which were dry and clean, but still retained the odor of rum. The furs were packed, with heads put in the casks, and they were thus secure against moths and other insects, and not exposed to dampness. All the vessels adopted this mode, which proved to be an excellent one. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The exportation of sea otter skins and river furs was very large. Besides those exported by the Russians, the Boston ships took a great many home with them, as did also vessels to other ports. </P>
025.sgm:<P>As the hunting increased, the animals diminished and the exportations became less; but late as 1840 and along to 1844 Henry Mellus made shipments of sea otter, land-otter and beaver skins amounting to $15,000 or $20,000 each. Land-otters and beavers were then not so scarce as sea Otters. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Among the Californians it was a custom to call all persons, of either sex, by a Christian name, the younger people especially being so addressed. The older persons, if men, had the prefix of "Don" or "Se&ntilde;or Don" given to their Christian names, and were rarely known by their surnames. The ladies were addressed with the prefix of "Do&ntilde;a" or "Se&ntilde;orita Do&ntilde;a" to Christian names, if unmarried, and "Se&ntilde;ora Do&ntilde;a," if married. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Shortly after arriving at Monterey in the bark "Louise," in 1831, I was playing about the deck one day with Louis Vignes, he having come from Honolulu in the same vessel. The main hatch being uncovered for the discharge of the cargo, in running round the opening, I slipped, lost my balance and fell into the hold. Taken up insensible, I remained so for some hours, having broken my arm. Our consul at Honolulu, Mr. J. C. Jones, was a stepfather of mine. He came over on the same trip, and was on shore. Word having been sent to him, he brought aboard Dr. Douglas, who set my arm carefully, and treated me very kindly. This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>At Monterey the doctor was the guest of David Spence, his countryman. Having visited the various Missions, and made the acquaintance of the Padres, for whom he had great respect and attachment, he spoke of their learning and of the great good being done by them in this wild and unsettled territory, and commended their missionary work--with the limited means at command--not only in Christianizing and educating the Indians in schools and churches, but in teaching various useful trades. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Dr. Douglas, being brave and fearless, usually traveled on foot through the country, and refused the services of guides or vaqueros whom the good Fathers or rancheros would urge him to take with him. Two or three years after the accident, the doctor visited the Sandwich Islands for the purpose of pursuing his researches, and traveled over the island of Hawaii unattended, engaged in procuring specimens. Here he became widely known and much esteemed. At that time large numbers of wild cattle ranged in the mountains of the island, portions of different bands that had strayed away. The younger cattle, from long neglect, had become uncontrollable, and roamed without restraint of any kind, no one claiming ownership in them. They were hunted by foreigners and natives, and trapped in pits five or six feet deep, dug along the mountain sides, and covered lightly with branches of trees and brush. The cattle, in ranging, fell into these holes, and being unable to extricate themselves, hunters could easily dispatch them. If the meat was fit for food, a portion of it would be saved; but the main object of the slaughter was the securing of hides and tallow. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pursuing his favorite occupation for some time on the island, Dr. Douglas disappearing suddenly, began to be inquired about by many. The British consul projected a search, assisted by the king, the American consul and other foreigners resident at Honolulu. Rewards were offered; and the governor of the Island sent out to look for the doctor. After diligent search his body was discovered in one of the cattle pits, having evidently been there several days. A live bull was found in the hole with him. His faithful dog who had accompanied him in all his travels was found watching at the edge of the pit. It is supposed that the doctor approached too near the edge to look at the animal imprisoned there, and, slipping in accidentally, was killed by the bull. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I have before spoken in terms of commendation concerning the chastity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>I remember another case in San Diego where the parents of the young woman were very severe. Her hair was cut off close to her head, and she was placed in jail, and also put to work to sweep the streets of the town with the other prisoners. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Indians of California used artfully constructed traps for bears. They dug a large hole, about five or six feet deep, directly under the branch of a tree, covered it with brush and a light coating of earth, and made all smooth on top. From the branch would be suspended a quarter of beef. Bruin would scent the meat, and, approaching without suspicion, would fall headlong into the pit. Shooting with bow and arrows, the Indian, having come out of his place of concealment, would presently kill the bear. After he had acquired the use of firearms there was no delay in thus dispatching the animal. In 1840, and subsequent years, numbers of bears were trapped in the vicinity of San Leandro, about a mile and a half from the present town. The young men of a family, accompanied by an Indian servant, would go out and secure a bear, having great enjoyment in the sport. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Do&ntilde;a Luisa Avila de Gafia, a California lady, born in the city of Los Angeles, a relative of two noted families there of great wealth, and married to a citizen of Mexico,-was attractive for her remarkably fine personal appearance and superior conversational powers. On Christmas, 1880, she was visiting in San Diego, and I was interested in her account of her life in the city of Mexico, where she had lived for a number of years. Although fifty-six years of age she had not a gray hair in her head, as was proven by loosening her hair and having the ladies present at the dinner party make an examination of the luxuriant tresses. Her teeth were very fine. The lady related, that when Juarez was elected president of the Mexican Republic, Miramon, with his forces, opposed him, and designed effecting his capture, so as to prevent him taking the office. Do&ntilde;a Luisa, having large estates in Los Angeles county, plenty of resources and ready money (as had also her husband), proposed to Juarez to furnish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIV  <HI REND="italics">W. D. M. Howard, Trader, Jester and Bold Operator</HI>
025.sgm:<P>WILLIAM D. M. HOWARD belonged to a respectable family of the city of Boston. In his youth, getting himself and his companions into mischief of one kind or another, his mother hoped to subdue and cure him of his wayward tendency by sending him to sea before the mast, in the ship "California," Captain Arthur, bound for this coast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The good captain had compassion on the lad and after they had got to sea took him as cabin boy, in which capacity he arrived at Monterey in the early part of 1839. The vessel proceeded thence to San Pedro; and Howard became clerk for Abel Stearns, who was then a merchant at Los Angeles, the first of the foreign merchants, and doing a large business. Alfred Robinson or Henry Mellus, and perhaps Captain Arthur, used influence in getting Howard into this position. The young man had become docile by his sea experience; and applied himself diligently to his new labors, having a bright and active mind, and showing indications that he would make a successful merchant. In 1840, he went home, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Reaching Monterey about this time in the "Don Quixote," I met my friend Howard and was introduced to his wife. During the visit, Howard surprised me by announcing a discovery he had made that we were second cousins; that his mother was a niece of my father; and that the name of my family was his second given name. He made me a present of a work called "Day and Night," in two volumes. The "California" proceeded <illus entity="a025-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[TEXT OF LETTER ON OPPOSITE PAGE]</P>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LETTER FROM SAMUEL BRANNAN TO THE AUTHOR</P>
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025.sgm:<P>Before this second trip of the "California," she had been sold by Bryant &amp; Sturgis to William G. Read, a capitalist of Boston, by whom she was loaded, and sent out, with three supercargoes: Captain Arthur, Captain Clapp, who commanded the "Alciope" when she was here in 1840, and William D. M. Howard. They did not get along very harmoniously. Captain Arther, though an excellent navigator and ship master, was not much of a business man, neither was Captain Clap; but Howard, with a natural aptitude for business, had profited by his experience with Stearns in 1839 and '40, in developing business capacity, and was the chief super-cargo. The others were jealous of his superior ability. The cargo having been disposed of, the vessel returned to Boston with hides, but Howard and his wife remained at Los Angeles. Read had written to Howard meantime that he would dispatch to him the "Vandalia," of four or five hundred tons. The ship arrived here in the latter part of 1843. Howard, being sole supercargo, traded up and down the coast (sometimes taking his wife with him), and sold the cargo at a good profit for the owners. In 1846 he sent the vessel back to Boston with hides, otter and beaver skins, and other furs. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The vessel while in the harbor of San Francisco, entertained many of the ladies at impromptu receptions. Howard often joined them in Philopena--sharing with them double almonds, the one calling out Philopena first, on their next meeting, being entitled to a present. It cost him a good many pairs of gloves, and other articles, to discharge these obligations. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1845 he formed a copartnership, under the style of Mellus &amp; Howard, with Henry Mellus, who for several years had been employed by Boston merchants as agent and supercargo. The business of the Hudson's Bay Company in Yerba Buena having been terminated by the death of Rae, the premises occupied by that company were purchased by the new firm. Late in 1848 they built a new store on the southwest corner of Clay and Montgomery streets; abandoned the Hudson's Bay building and took Talbot H. Green, a new partner into the business. Then the style of the firm was changed to Mellus, Howard &amp; Co. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Howard was a bold operator, liking to do things on a grand scale-sometimes rather reckless in his purchases, but generally successful. Henry Mellus was the best merchant in town, he having been thoroughly educated in business. My store in 1846 and 1847 was on the northwest corner of Clay and Montgomery streets. Howard was accustomed to late suppers, and often after I had retired for the night at Kent Hall he would rap at my door and call out that I must come over and have supper with him, persisting until I complied. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>Going across to the store, we feasted on turkey, chicken and champagne, or whatever his larder afforded; talking, laughing and enjoying ourselves for two or three hours, sometimes with other company. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The American flag was hoisted in 1846, and the town was placed under martial law. Watson, captain of the marines of the American man-of-war "Portsmouth" (Commander Montgomery), was in charge, with a corps from the vessel. The flag was raised on what is now Portsmouth Square. A guard was stationed at the Mexican custom house, an adobe building on the square. The Californians made no resistance to the raising of the flag at various points in the department; but some weeks afterward they decided to oppose the complete surrender of the country. At Los Angeles, Santa Barbara and San Jos&eacute;, attacks were made upon the little guards of soldiers there stationed, and they were driven away. News reaching Yerba Buena, the remainder of the marine corps on board the "Portsmouth" was sent on shore, making a force of twenty-five. The opposition of the Californians led to the preparations by Commodore Stockton and the battle of San Gabriel, which will be spoken of hereafter. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Howard, myself and a few other merchants were furnished by Watson with the countersign, which was changed every night. We were out on a visit one evening, and were crossing Portsmouth Square, on the way home, about eleven o'clock, when we were hailed by the guard on duty: "Halt! who goes there?" "Friends;" we answered. "Advance and give the countersign l" commanded the sentry. We advanced, but both Howard and myself had forgotten it. We explained our position. The guard said he was obliged to take us to the guard-house, which he accordingly did, armed with his musket, one of us on each side of him. Fortunately, Captain Watson was still up, and, on seeing us approach under arrest, burst out laughing. He dismissed the guard, and entertained us very hospitably for two or three hours. Howard was a capital mimic. He often personated the peculiarities of others in a good-natured way; was a fine actor, and very successful in playing practical jokes on his friends. If Grimes flew into a rage over the practice of some of these artifices, the former used his mirth and persuasive abilities with success, in calming down the old captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Robert Ridley, in 1845, built a one-story cottage, with a piazza round it, on the southwest corner of California and Montgomery streets, back about twenty varas (fifty-five feet) from each of the streets. He sold this place to William A. Leidesdorff, who lived there from 1846 to the time of his death in May, '48. In the summer of 1847 Commodore Biddle arrived from China in the line-of-battle ship "Columbus," and was the guest of Leidesdorff. While he was there, Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Estudillo with his wife and two daughters, and myself called to pay our respects. As <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Upon the death of Leidesdorff, Howard was appointed administrator of the estate, with two bondsmen, each in $50,000, of whom I was one. Howard then took possession of the cottage as a residence, and occupied it up to the beginning of '49. While there, he received a good deal of company,--merchants, captains, supercargoes, army and navy officers and other strangers. Mrs. Howard came up from Los Angeles, where she had been spending considerable time, a daughter being born to her there, and joined her husband at the Leidesdorff cottage in 1848. She left San Francisco in January, 1849, by the American ship "Rhone" for Honolulu, hoping to secure in the Islands the restoration of her failing health, but she died in three or four months after her arrival, while staying with the family of William Hooper, the United States consul. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the autumn of 1849 Howard was married again, the bride being Miss Poett, daughter of Dr. Poett, who, with his wife, had resided many years in Santiago, Chili, where the young lady was born. They came to California in '49. Before the marriage he had purchased a house and lot on the northeast corner of Stockton and Washington streets. It was there he was married and afterward lived, until 1851, when he moved to Mission street, between Third and Fourth, and built one of four cottages--of similar design and appearance, the others having been constructed, one by George Mellus, one by Talbot H. Green and one by Sam. Brannan. Howard had by his second wife one child, (1899) still living. His first child died at Los Angeles. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mellus, Howard &amp; Co., in 1848 and '49, after the discovery of gold, did an extensive and profitable business. They had a branch store at Sutter's Fort, with Sam. Brannan as partner and manager (he having no interest in the San Francisco house), and sold goods and supplies of all kinds to the miners. The business at Brannan's branch store required continuous supplies from the San Francisco house, and he would sometimes come to the city and nearly empty my store and the stores of others, buying everything we had. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLV  <HI REND="italics">Samuel Brannan, the Great 46'er</HI>
025.sgm:<P>E. MICKLE AND COMPANY were a mercantile house established in San Francisco since 1848. They came here from Valparaiso. A master of a ship consigned to this firm, during his stay in port, obtained several grants of 50 vara lots from the Alcalde. Two of these lots were located on what is the easterly line of Montgomery Street between Sacramento and California Streets. Previous to his departure, the ship captain gave to the head clerk for E. Mickle and Company a letter of instructions regarding the lots. Shortly afterward, the agent put up a large notice on a board placed on a knoll near the center of the property, stating that it was for lease. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Samuel Brannan leased the land and after occupying it for about a year the firm of Osborn and Brannan built a store on a portion of the property. The store was situated on the first 50 vara lot from Sacramento Street, and about twenty feet back from the east line of Montgomery Street. Brannan's firm was then doing a large business as merchants. Brannan subsequently purchased from the owner's agent both lots for $9000, in gold dust, and a deed of conveyance was duly executed to him by the agent. The purchaser then improved a portion of the property with fine buildings. [Note: these were destroyed in the fire of April 18th, 1906.] </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ten years later Brannan sold twenty-five feet on Montgomery Street, where the old bank of Donohoe, Kelly &amp; Co. afterward did business. The purchasers did a large drygoods business there for several years. When they finally closed up, they wished to divide their property but could not agree upon the valuation of land they had bought from Brannan. In view of this, they concluded to offer it for sale at public auction so that each of the partners could bid for it what he thought proper. It was so offered and purchased by one of the partners. Investigation of the title was made by O. C. Pratt and Alexander Campbell, senior, forming the legal firm of Pratt and Campbell, who discovered that Brannan's title <illus entity="a025-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SACRAMENTO CITY IN 1848 <HI REND="italics">this curious print was prepared under the direction of William Heath Davis before his death in 1909.  the store of s. Brannan &amp; Co., in which w. D. M. Howard and Henry Mellus were partners with Samuel Brannan, is said to have furnished the provisions used by Marshall while building the sawmill at Coloma where gold was discovered by him January 24, 1848</HI>
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025.sgm:<P>The incident above related shows the loose manner in which real estate transactions were handled in the early days in this city. Litigation arising from land titles was common. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Brannan's confiding disposition and carelessness in business is shown in the following: A person named Charles E. Norton, who had resided many years in Mexico, was on a visit to San Francisco. Through Norton Dr. Hitchcock, Ferdinand Vassault and others purchased the Baraten mines in Cosala. Norton made his headquarters in Vassault's office, where he had a number of beautiful specimens of gold ore. Some of his acquaintances from Mexico would come to see him there, and they told Vassault that they had several valuable mines in their country which they desired to sell. On one occasion Brannan came in, made the acquaintance of the Mexicans, and had a long talk with them about the mines they claimed to represent. Brannan invited them to visit him at his office several days later when he would talk further with them. After several interviews with the Mexicans, Brannan told Vassault that he had made up his mind to buy two, and possibly three, of the mines they claimed to own; adding that if he did make the purchase, he would like Vassault to take an interest in them with him. It was agreed that they should meet the Mexicans at Brannan's office, but when Vassault arrived, Brannan informed him that he had already agreed upon the price to be paid for the mines, namely $200,000; of which $10,000 was to paid down to bind the bargain. Brannan was to make an investigation within a given time, and if everything was as represented the balance of the purchase money would then be paid. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the table of his private office there were several samples of beautiful ore represented as having come from the mines bargained for. Vassault examined them carefully; and calling Brannan aside, told him that the Mexicans were dishonest and warned him not to pay them any money. He informed Brannan that while examining the specimens of ore lying on the table, his suspicions had been aroused. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vassault then picked up one of the specimens and showing it to the spokesman for the Mexicans asked if the rock in his hand had actually <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>When the Mexicans returned to Brannan's office at the end of the half hour, they were ordered to leave it, and thus ended the attempted swindle. Vassault saved Brannan from a loss of at least ten thousand dollars.  During the French intervention in Mexico, at the time Maximilian was being supported by them, Brannan assisted President Juarez and his supporters, furnishing them with arms, ammunition and supplies. For this he was afterwards paid forty thousand dollars in money by the Mexican government, and also given a large tract of land in Sonora. This land was of no benefit to Brannan, however, for it was situated in the Yaqui region where the Indians were hostile to the government, so that Brannan was unable to take possession of his grant. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Samuel Brannan, when himself, was liked by every one who knew him. He was kind hearted, confiding and generous to a fault; and always ready to open his purse for the relief of the needy. He had a sort of bluntness toward poor people who called upon him for assistance, and would ask questions regarding their necessity, but invariably ended the interview with a generous gift and the remark: "Come again if there is further need of my assistance." </P>
025.sgm:<P>There is hardly a man who has done more for the city of San Francisco or the State of California than Samuel Brannan. He laid out the city of Sacramento, and was the first to project a railroad from that city to a distance of about 28 miles. He had the rails and ties at Sacramento and was about to commence work when Messrs. Stanford, Huntington, Hopkins and Crocker prevailed upon him to sell them the materials for their own project: the Central Pacific Railway. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Brannan likewise laid out the town of Calistoga, and developed the springs there, making known their medicinal qualities. He was the publisher of the first newspaper in San Francisco, the California Star which he started in 1847. This paper was later united with the Californian, first published in Monterey, and brought to San Francisco in May 1847.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Without fear of contradiction I may say that Samuel Brannan was one of the most public spirited men in San Francisco; and that his hand and heart in the early days were in every enterprise for the promotion of education and the general prosperity of the state of his adoption. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVI  <HI REND="italics">A Ride to Chino and Gift to the Pope</HI>
025.sgm:<P>DON VICTOR CASTRO, in addition to raising cattle and vegetables, was a boatman. He owned a schooner launch and a whale-boat, the latter he had obtained from one of the whale ships in exchange for vegetables. This whale boat of Castro's was the only ferry that connected Yerba Buena and Sausalito, socially and commercially, with the opposite or eastern shore of the bay, known in early days as Contra Costa. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Of course, the hide shippers ran boats on the bay, but only for the delivery of merchandise or in search of cargoes of hides and tallow. The merchants of Yerba Buena also had their boats for the same purpose. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Cerritos, a part of the San Pablo rancho, was a sort of terminus for travelers coming to or going from the eastern shore until as late as 1850-51 when the steam ferry began making trips from San Francisco up the San Antonio creek or estuary. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Victor was kind and obliging to his callers. He entertained them as guests at his home while his boatmen were making ready for the row across the bay. Obadiah Livermore who died here a few years ago was one of his boatmen in the winter of 1849-50. When Castro was unable to go himself, Livermore took his place and landed the passengers on San Francisco side. This very whaleboat of Victor Castro's has carried matrons and their daughters to and from the early festivals held in San Francisco commemorative of the natal day of Mexico and that of her sister republic. I have partaken of the hospitality of Don Victor and his lovely wife, Do&ntilde;a Luisa Martinez, often. Like all early Californians of Spanish extraction they were generous to a fault. I have tried to reciprocate the kindness of Se&ntilde;or and Se&ntilde;ora Castro, and whenever they came to San Francisco they were entertained at our home by Mrs. Davis, who was a niece of Do&ntilde;a Luisa. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I was the guest of Abel Stearns at Los Angeles, when one very warm morning before six o'clock, I was awakened by a knocking on my bed-room <illus entity="a025-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RANCH HOUSE OF LOUIS RUBIDOUX, OWNER OFF THE JURUPA RANCH FROM 1849 TO 1869.  NOW RIVERSIDE, CALIFORNIA <HI REND="italics">This adobe house was originally built by Don Juan Bandini and Abel Stearns in  1839 as their home and occupied by them as such until 1843.  The Jurupa Grant was made to Don Juan Bandini, September 28, 1838, by Governor Juan B. Alvarado.  Later, ownership of portions of the grant passed to Don Benito Wilson and Don Julian (Isaac) Williams.  Rubidoux purchased the entire rancho in 1848-1849.</HI>
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025.sgm:<P>On this trip I collected or set in motion the wagons all along the route to San Pedro. Some of the rancheros would recognize me at a distance, and riding up to meet me would say, "Your pay is ready and the hides and tallow will be sent in a few days more." There were fat steers in the corrals, visible from my position in the road. These were marked for slaughter, and vaqueros were separating out others. Everybody was busy: trying out fat, curing hides, cutting up meat for drying. As I rode along I could see no evidence of change. It was too soon to look for the new order of things, for the government under American officials was less than a year in existence. After a canter of an hour or so I would walk my horse to give him a breathing spell, but the spirited animal was eager to reach the end of the journey, and was restless to go from a walk to a lope. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I was riding through the rich valley of Los Angeles, in the month of August 1847. The plains were covered with its moving wealth, some of which was being converted into currency, hides and tallow, to pay for the necessities imported. As I passed along I would ask a ranchero about the condition of the cattle. His answer would be, "The steers are fat and they will yield one with another six arrobas of fat at least. The year has been very grassy and good for slaughtering cattle." </P>
025.sgm:<P>I arrived at the great hacienda--El Chino--an hour before midday, after a ride of forty miles, with the thermometer at one hundred in the shade. The noble animal was as strong and as gay as at the commencement of the journey. A sumptuous dinner was relished after my ride. At table were more than twenty persons, among whom was the family of the proprietor. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>I took a great interest in the big establishment, receiving from the American haciendado every attention possible. His treatment of me was a reminder of the cordial receptions of the old Spanish haciendados. Don Julian--Isaac Williams was known among Californians by that name--offered me a fresh horse for my return, but my animal was fresh enough to take me back in lively style. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I found the enterprising man in the midst of his <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm:, with more than a thousand steers slaughtered, the work to be continued until two thousand or more were killed. I observed with great interest the try-pots bubbling with the melted tallow and <HI REND="italics">manteca</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Isaac Williams informed me that he would start the wagons within two days with several thousand dollars of hides and tallow for my vessel at San Pedro. I reached Los Angeles before sunset after a very hot ride with the grand horse perfectly unfatigued. This shows that the California horses were originally from fine stock, and their endurance was really astonishing. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Isaac Williams was one of the first Americans to come to the Department of California, and was known by the name of Don Julian, from the similarity in sound of Williams to Julian in the ears of the Californians of that time. He gave as one reason of his coming here that he wanted to see the setting sun in the furthest West. He became the owner of several leagues of land and thousands of animals. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In June, 1846, Don Julian came on board my vessel at San Pedro, and I sold him a large quantity of goods, the payment for which was to be made in the following 1847 <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>His income, say, from two thousand five hundred steers killed, would be from the tallow and <HI REND="italics">manteca</HI>
025.sgm:, at six arrobas to each animal, fifteen thousand arrobas or twenty-five thousand dollars; add to this five thousand dollars for the hides, the amount would be thirty thousand dollars. This is an illustration of the incomes of the haciendados, proportionate to the number of cattle they slaughtered at the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The homes of the haciendados were generally large dwellings, one-story in height, built of adobes, with very thick walls as a protection <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Many of the hacendados lived in the towns in the winter months; but in the spring of the year their households moved to their country homes, where they generally remained until the autumn or close of the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>During these times of dwelling at the haciendas, visits were received from the merchants, supercargoes and the residents of the towns. They were entertained in the most hospitable manner, with picnics in the day time to some picturesque spot on the rancho and in the evening a family <HI REND="italics">baile</HI>
025.sgm:<P>I look back almost two generations ago to those merry days with pride and joy, at the kindness which I received and the manliness and simplicity of the welcome of the fathers of families, and the womanly deportment of their wives and daughters, and their innocent amusements. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When I arrived at the Stearn's I went at once to my room, and without undressing, threw myself on the bed. It was not long before I was sound asleep. The servant came to my door and knocked and knocked to tell me supper was ready. He reported to Do&ntilde;a Arcadia that it was impossible to waken me. She herself came to the door and repeated the knocks, but the journey of eighty miles with the intense heat had overpowered my whole system. It would have taken a cannon blast near my bed to have gotten me up. At the breakfast table the next morning I made an apology to Se&ntilde;ora Stearns, the good lady of the home, saying that it was not in my power to have complied with her rule for supper, assuring her also that I knew I had lost a fine meal. </P>
025.sgm:<P>One spring forenoon in the early Fifties I made a visit to San Francisco. I was living at San Leandro in Alameda County at the time. On the corner of Montgomery and Sacramento Streets I accidentally met Captain John A. Sutter. Our greeting was most cordial and spontaneous, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The old captain said, "Let us go to some quiet place. There is a room in the rear of Barry and Patten's resort where we will be away from the noise of the street." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sutter was faultlessly attired and looked young and fresh. He ordered a nice luncheon with a bottle of Heidseick, and as we ate and sipped the sparkling beverage we indulged in many reminiscences of our trip to the American River away back in 1839. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The subject of his conversation was his treatment by the early merchants of Yerba Buena and Nathan Spear, who had stood by him, especially the latter in the beginning of the settlement in the Sacramento Valley, when the existence of New Helvetia, his colony, was in the balance. After the severe winter of 1839-40, the success of Sutter's undertaking was assured. He had familiarized himself with the unknown wealth of the rivers in beaver and the valleys in elk, deer, bear and other fur-bearing animals. The tallow derived from the elk was an article of commerce and in good demand at two dollars the arroba. Beaver and land otter were plentiful in the streams and tule flats. There was a large Indian village of about one thousand on the present site of Sacramento. These Indians were converted Mission aborigines, and they were expert hunters. Sutter soon learned of the richness of his possessions, and at once set to work to utilize the skill of these hunters. The Indians proved a source of great revenue to the Captain. They were paid by him so much a skin for their catch. In this and other ways, Sutter emerged into prosperity and influence which was recognized by the merchants afloat and ashore, and 'the wealthy haciendados of the Department. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sutter appreciated Spear's faith in his integrity, and his ability as a leader, and sent him a large shipment of furs in payment for supplies which Spear had booked against the Captain in his critical days, financially. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We talked and sipped, and sipped and smoked and the subject turned to the discovery of gold. The Indians from a very early period had learned something of its value. This knowledge they had obtained from Padres at the Missions. It was from the rich finds by Indians and deposited by them at the Missions that gold to the value of six or seven thousand dollars was obtained, which placed in a fine silk purse made especially for the purpose, was sent to Rome as a present to the Pope many years before the finding of the placer diggings in San Fernando <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The Captain continued the story of his experiences of a score of years in the great Sacramento Valley, and said that they were the happiest years of his life, because he had been in a position to do good to the immigrants and others in need, with plenty to give and no compensation to ask. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Buri-buri rancho derived its name from an Indian tribe that inhabited the land between San Mateo and the puertezuelo of San Francisco. They also claimed the western shore of the Pacific Ocean as their fishing grounds. In 1838 the Buri-buri hacienda contained more than eight thousand cattle and numerous horses and sheep. It was the property of Don Jos&eacute; Sanchez. His name appears elsewhere as a leader of military expeditions against the Indians. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Redwood City inherited its name from the forests of redwood trees growing among the hills to its rear. In former years under both Mexican and American rule there was a large trade from the embarcadero of Las Pulgas in redwood lumber. At first the timber was gotten out with primitive hand saws, but later saws driven by water and steam power denuded the sierra of its wealth and grandeur. These forests were first penetrated by the Mission Padres, Lieutenant Moraga and a few soldiers. They saw a forest of timber suitable for the erection of the Mission San Francisco de Asis. Timbers, planking and boards were cut and prepared with primitive rip and crosscut saws by the hands of the priests themselves, aided by Indians. As fast as this lumber was ready it was hauled to the embarcadero of Las Pulgas (Redwood City) and San Francisquito (Mayfield) and transported to the embarcadero or Mission Creek in schooners and launches built by the Padres. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Palo Alto, the home of the late Senator Stanford and the location of the great university bearing his name, takes its appellation from an ancient monarch of the forest standing near the bank of San Francisquito creek. The base of this mammoth tree was a favorite luncheon spot with early day wayfarers, and merchants engaged in trade for hides and tallow. I have partaken of my noon repast a great many times under the shade of its branches. The lunch generally consisted of well prepared chickens, tamales, lambs tongues and hard boiled eggs, with tortillas and fine white bread, and invariably a bottle of old Mission wine. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the mountain forests and on the prairie country in back of and on either side of San Francisquito creek there were hundreds and hundreds of black, cinnamon and grizzly bears which roamed the country, living on acorns from the live oaks studding the flat lands. In the season of matanza, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Estudillo, father of Mrs. Davis, once told me that during one night he and ten soldiers from the San Francisco Presidio, where he was stationed as an officer anterior to 1835, lassoed and killed forty bears in the woods at San Francisquito, one of the numerous ranchos of Mission Santa Clara. They had a relay of horses trained to this work, and the soldiers having been originally vaqueros were quite at home in the sport. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It was matanza time and the bears were attracted by the smell of meat. Se&ntilde;or Estudillo said it was very exciting, and they were so interested in dispatching bears that they forgot the lateness of the hour. The animals were lassoed by the throat and the hind legs with a horseman on each end, the two pulling in opposite directions until the poor brute succumbed. The fun was kept up till daylight. When they were through they were completely exhausted, and then it was they discovered how much work they had done. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Prior to Henry Mellus' downward voyage in the ship "Barnstable" in 1846 from San Francisco to San Pedro, the Californians had revolted. In order to save him from being arrested by the Californians, Don Manuel Requena, then Alcalde of the Pueblo of Los Angeles, contrived a very novel way of preventing Mellus from being taken prisoner. </P>
025.sgm:<P>He sent a confidential Indian to San Pedro, ostensibly to fish, but with a letter bound round his foot with a cloth. The Indian, pretending to be lame, walked and limped with the aid of a stick, and passed through the lines of the unsuspecting Californians. The letter was delivered safely. It cautioned Mellus not to land at San Pedro by any means for he would be caught by the Californians guarding the springs of water then used by men-of-war when in port and by American vessels. This was the only fresh water at San Pedro, a few miles from the rancho Palos Verdes, be longing to Don Juan Sep&uacute;lveda. </P>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVII  <HI REND="italics">Folsom's Foresight; and Talbot H. Green's Past</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE Leidesdorff estate, when Howard took charge of it, was in debt about $60,000. In its management and settlement he showed his business ability. It embraced a great deal of property. Every thing was arranged by Howard in the most satisfactory manner. C. V.Gillespie was his managing assistant in this business. J. L. Folsom, quarter-master, United states army, in San Francisco, noticing the rapid rise in real estate, consequent upon the discovery of gold and the rush of people to California, and knowing that the Leidesdorff property would rapidly become valuable, slipped away from the city and proceeded to the island of St. Croix, one of the West Indies, where Leidesdorff was born, and where his mother Ann Maria Spark, and her family, were living. His father was a Dane, who had emigrated to St. Croix. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Folsom bought of the heirs the entire estate in California, paying therefor the sum of $75,000 cash, and afterwards $15,000 or $20,000 more. On returning, after having secured the deed, the property was turned over to him, it being then worth several hundred thousand dollars. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I was elected to the ayuntamiento of San Francisco in 1848 and also in 1849.<ANCHOR ID="n47-10">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n47-10">See appendix: Extract of Proceedings; page 343.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>He organized, in the year 1849, the first military company in San Francisco, under the name of California Guard, composed of one hundred members, of whom I was one. He made a good commanding officer, and drilled the company efficiently; taking much pleasure and pride in this work, having acquired in the East in his younger days considerable military skill. Without ambition for political office or civil position of any kind-although, with his talents and popularity, he might easily have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Having a fine ear for music, and great appreciation of it, Howard had also a taste for theatricals, and was a good amateur actor. He happened to be at Santa Barbara with the "Vandalia" in 1845, while the ship "Admittance" was there. John C. Jones was going as passenger to Boston, and had secured a cabin for his accommodation. Jones was considered a good actor of Shakespearean characters, and while the vessels were at Santa Barbara he and Howard got up a performance (in which both personated characters) for a large company assembled. It was very successful, affording a good deal of entertainment to themselves and the audience; being the first introduction of Shakespeare to this wild country. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Just after my marriage, in November, 1847, Howard serenaded us on two occasions with a band of music, at our house in Yerba Buena. When the band had played a number of airs on the piazza, we got up and dressed, opened the doors, and invited Howard and the musicians in. Mr. and Mrs. Estudillo being also with us, we had quite a party. Champagne was freely opened, and a few pleasant hours were enjoyed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mellus having had an attack of apoplexy in 1850, which impaired his health, soon after sold out his share in the business to Howard and Green, receiving therefor $1 50,000 here, and also one-half of $40,000 which he and Howard had on deposit in Boston. After his withdrawal he retired to private life in that city. His brother Frarik afterward went into the concern, but shortly withdrew. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sometime in 1850 Talbot H. Green was recognized by H. P. Hepburn, a lawyer from Philadelphia, who had known him at the East, as Paul Geddes. Hepburn was walking in Montgomery street with a number of gentlemen, among them Ferdinand Vassault, and looking across the street, exclaimed, "Why, there's Paul Geddes!" "That's Talbot H. Green," said one. "No," responded Hepburn; "it is Paul Geddes; I know him as well as I do myself." The circumstances under which he had suddenly left the East soon became known throughout the city, and the discovery created quite a sensation, as Green at the time was a candidate for the office of Mayor of San Francisco. Howard had put him forward for that position. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Green stoutly denied that he was Paul Geddes and contradicted all the accusations, affirming that he was Talbot H. Green, and always had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Green soon left for the East and did not return for a number of years. Howard continued the business by himself. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The great fire of 1851, which destroyed the business portion of San Francisco, and, in fact, almost the whole city, leaving a little rim on the outside like the tire of a wheel--the wheel itself being gone-burned out Howard, who at the time had a large stock of goods, and also his buildings in different parts of the town. He became so crippled in consequence that he was on the verge of bankruptcy. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The town was rebuilt, however, and in 1853 real estate had increased so much in value that he had not only recovered his losses by the fire, but had become a rich man. He visited Boston in that year. The fact of the resuscitation of San Francisco and the great increase in the value of property there were of course well known at the East. When Howard reached Boston he was looked upon as a millionaire. This excited the jealousy of Mellus, who, although wealthy himself, was not satisfied; and he instituted a suit against Howard, employing the famous Rufus Choate as his counsel; his complaint being that he was not in his right mind at the time of his settlement with Howard in 1850, and that he had not received the full value of his share of the partnership property at that time. The suit was, however, abandoned, as Howard could prove unquestionably that Mellus was sufficiently sane to know what he was about, and had sold his interest with full knowledge of its value. Besides, at the time of settlement, the friends of Mellus, his brothers and others, were consulted; they were aware that in the transaction there was no deception on the part of the purchaser. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After his return from Boston, in 1854, he was so enraged at Mellus' unfriendly action in commencing suit, that he caused the name of the street which had been called after him to be changed to "Natoma," which name it still bears. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Howard was the leader and one of the most active organizers in the establishment of the California Pioneer Society in 1850, and due credit should be given him for these efforts. He was the first president of the society, and remained as such till 1853. At the Pioneer Hall was a portrait of him, but I regret it was not a very correct likeness; a better one was owned by Don Alfredo Robinson. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I never knew Howard to decline granting a favor or refuse to contribute <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>In 1850 or 1851 Mellus &amp; Howard purchased, in Boston, a first-class fire engine, one of such machines as were in use in those days, worked by hand, selected by Mellus while he was East on a visit, the firm paying for it, and the freight also, from their private funds. On its arrival in 1851 they presented it to the city of San Francisco, this being among the first, if not the very first, of the engines which the city possessed. It was named the "Howard." </P>
025.sgm:<P>A fire company was organized, of which Howard was made foreman. Charles R. Bond was secretary, Ferdinand Vassault, William Burling, A. S. Dungan, G. B. Post, R. S. Watson, Charles Warner, R. L. Ogden, Thomas J. Haynes and other well-known gentlemen--all merchants, the first citizens of San Francisco-were original members; also Beverly C. Sanders, banker, and collector of the port; Sam. Brannan and George H. Howard, capitalists. In fact all the members of this company were men of wealth and high standing, none others being admitted. At the organization of the company and the election of officers there was a jolly time. One of the participants one time remarked to me that the champagne was unlimited. There were about forty members, and they had their headquarters in an iron building, imported from England, situated on the west side of Montgomery street, a little south of California, where the engine was kept. On occasions of fires, Howard, as foreman, and the other members of the company, appeared in their firemen's caps and uniforms, and worked the engine--aided by volunteers from the outside, when necessary. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The subject of this sketch may be regarded as one of the founders of San Francisco. His enterprise, energy and wealth helped build it up and stimulated its prosperity. He had its interests always at heart; and where he could be of service in anything tending to its growth and advancement, he was foremost. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In personal appearance, he can be described as an ideal nobleman, six feet in height, erect, of commanding figure, with sandy beard (generally clean shaven),full, ruddy cheeks, laughing eyes, and soft and musical voice. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During his visit to Boston in 1853, Howard contracted a severe cold which settled on his lungs. After his return here in 1854, he commenced to pine away. He gradually grew worse, until he became hardly more than a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:skeleton of his former self, having lost perhaps half his weight. He was then living at the Oriental Hotel, Bush and Battery streets, with his family.  Larkin went up to the hotel one day to see him. He looked about the parlor, passing a man sitting there and was continuing his search, when the man in the chair called out, "For God's sake, Larkin, why don't you speak to me?"--and, to his astonishment, he perceived that it was Howard, so changed that he hardly knew him. His death was much lamented, laudatory obituary notices appearing in the <HI REND="italics">Alta</HI>
025.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Howard left a fine estate, which was divided between his widow and son. His widow afterward married his brother George; and after the latter's death, she married her present husband, Mr. Bowie. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVIII  <HI REND="italics">Yoscolo, the Mission Indian Renegade</HI>
025.sgm:<P>AFTER the change of flag, the laws of Mexico (civil and criminal) were continued as the predominating laws of the department, but the U. S. military commander of the territory was at the head. If a doubt arose concerning any alleged illegal exercise of authority by an alcalde (who was an elective officer) or by prefects (who were appointed by the governor), the dispute could be referred to the military governor, and his decision thereon might be final; he had power, for cause, to remove the alcalde from office; but I know of no instance of the arbitrary exercise of this power. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pio Pico was the last of the governors under the Mexican regime, holding from January, 1845, to the time of hoisting the American flag at Monterey July 7th, 1846. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore J. D. Sloat, of the U. S. navy, was the first military commander under our flag. He was succeeded by Commodore R. F. Stockton in July, 1846. Colonel Fr&eacute;mont was the military governor during a part of 1847. The latter was succeeded by General Kearny, and he, by Colonel Mason. The last of the military governors was General Riley, during whose administration the first constitution of the state was formed at Monterey in 1849. It was ratified at the general election November 13, 1849; the population at that time being about 120,000, of whom 80,000 (estimated) were American, 20,000 foreigners, and 20,000 native Californians. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Peter H. Burnett was elected governor at that election, under the constitution. On the 20th of December, 1849 (before the admission of the state into the Union, September, 1850), he entered upon the discharge of his duties at the capital, the pueblo of San Jos&eacute;. Before the expiration of his term of office he resigned the governorship, and John McDougal, the lieutenant-governor, served out the remainder of the term, a little less than a year.  Governor McDougal was jolly and open-hearted, but his habits were against him, and occasionally he would imbibe too much. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>The next election took place in the fall of 1851, John Bigler being elected governor of the state for the term of two years from January 1, 1852. His majority was 441 votes over P. B. Reading, the Whig candidate; the whole vote being about 50,000. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1849, Central wharf was built in San Francisco, so named from Central wharf of Boston. It was located where Commercial street is now, commencing a little to the west of Sansome street, and running 400 feet into the bay. Howard was one of the most active movers in this enterprise, and owned a large amount of the stock. The wharf proved to be useful, and was a valuable piece of property, bringing in a large income. At the public sale of tide lands by Alcalde Hyde, in October, 1847, Mellus and Howard bought the block bounded by Clay, Sacramento, Sansome and Battery streets, and they gave the company a slip of land about thirty-five feet wide for the building of the wharf. Its construction and use enhanced the value of the remainder of the block, and increased the wealth of the firm. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Afterward, in 1849, the alcalde, with the approval of the ayuntamiento, granted to the Central Wharf Company a block of tide land east of this block, and the wharf was extended to Front street the same width as the portion before built. In 1850 Colonel J. D. Stevenson and Dr. W. C. Parker secured the title to the block in front of that just mentioned, bounded by Front, Clay, Davis and Sacramento streets, and they granted to the Central Wharf Company, for a consideration, a strip the width of the wharf for a further extension, which was made as far as where Davis street now is. After that the city gave the company the right of way as far as Drumm street, and the wharf was built to that point. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The first section of wharf extending to Battery street, cost $110,000, and from Battery to Drumm $200,000. On the organization of the wharf company, C. V. Gillespie was elected president, and I was chosen treasurer. At the first meeting after the organization I reported having collected $23,000 from the stockholders. The stock was paid for as soon as subscribed. At the second meeting I reported that the subscriptions had all been paid in, amounting to $200,000. I then relinquished my position as treasurer, having more business on hand of my own than I could find time to attend to. I had accepted the position at first solely to oblige Howard. </P>
025.sgm:<P>From the time of the building of the first portion, the wharf beame an important feature of the city; and in the winter of 1849-50 it presented a scene of bustle and activity, day after day, such as, I presume, hardly has been equalled elsewhere in the world at any time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>An immense fleet of vessels from all parts of the globe, numbering eight or nine hundred, were anchored in the bay, east of the city, between Clark's Point (now about Broadway street) and the Rincon (now about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Central Wharf was the thoroughfare for communication with the vessels, and was crowded from morning till night with drays and wagons coming and going. Sailors, miners, and others of all nationalities, speaking a great variety of tongues, moved busily about; steamers were arriving and departing, schooners were taking in merchandise for the mines, boats were crowding in here and there--the whole resembling a great beehive, where at first glance everything appeared to be noise, confusion and disorder. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The city of San Francisco of 1905 with its extensive commerce and four hundred thousand people, presents no such grand spectacle of enterprise and activity as was centered at that pier, in its infancy. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The wharf at that time was a prominent feature of the view from the hill residences west. On leaving my home at Stockton and Jackson streets for the store on a fine morning, looking down, the sight was panoramic in the extreme--the living mass of human beings moving to and fro seeming in the distance not unlike an army in battle on the edge of a forest, represented by the wilderness of masts of vessels majestically riding at their moorings, gathered from all parts of the known world. The scene was one of the most memorable within my recollection. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Visiting the Missions of Carmel, Santa Barbara and San Diego in 1831, I was impressed with the neatness and order about them, and the respectable appearance of the Indians. The men dressed in white shirts and blue drill or cotton pants; many of them with shoes, which were manufactured at the Missions, from bullock hides, deer and elk skins, dressed and tanned there. The government of the Indians was systematic and well designed. A few of the Indians, in whom the Padres had confidence, were selected to act as alcaldes or <HI REND="italics">capitanes</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Shaw, of the "Volunteer," was a severe disciplinarian, and his vessel was as neat in every respect as a man-of-war; he also remarked upon the neatness and good order of the people, and everything connected with the Mission, saying the system could not be surpassed on a war vessel. There were no ragged children or vulgar-looking women. In visiting other Missions during that year, I noticed a similar condition; good order and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>At the Mission of San Jos&eacute; in 1839, I saw an Indian whipped on the bare back, for some offense he had committed, this being one of their punishments. The Mission was not then under the charge of Father Gonzales, but of Don Jos&eacute; Jesus Vallejo. In a year or two the control was again given to the Padre, and Don Jos&eacute; withdrew. This was the richest Mission in the Department at that time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Among the Indians who were educated at the Missions, two became prominent--Stanislaus at the Mission of San Jos&eacute;, after whom Stanislaus River and County were named; and Yoscolo, at the Mission of Santa Clara. They were educated by the Fathers. Both showed ability and promise in their youth. Yoscolo when twenty-one years of age, was made the chief of the whole body of Indians at the Mission, responsible of course to the Padres for the management of them. In this position he displayed tact in the control of the Indians. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At one time some of them committed trespasses which displeased the Padres and they proposed punishing Yoscolo, who refused to submit to It. At this stage he was joined by 500 of the Indians over whom he had command, and they all assumed a hostile attitude. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Indians were armed with bows and arrows, having been allowed to retain these weapons, as it was considered there was no danger in their doing so, and they were needed in killing game. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The outbreak occurred in the night. The five hundred, led by Yoscolo, broke open the Mission stores and helped themselves to blankets and whatever articles they could easily carry away. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A small guard was usually placed at each Mission by the governor, consisting of ten or fifteen soldiers, from the troops of the nearest Presidio, under the charge of a corporal or sergeant. At the Mission of Santa Clara there was a guard of this kind, under the command of Juan Prado Mesa. But against so large a force it would have been powerless. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After breaking into the stores and helping themselves, they entered the convent attached to the Mission, and seized about two hundred young Indian girls whom they took away with them.  It is probable that the sole object of the &eacute;meute was to secure possession of the girls, and that Yoscolo had planned for some time to effect this purpose; that the offense for which he had incurred the displeasure of the Fathers and rendered himself amenable to punishment was committed as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>An instance is not known of Indians doing harm to any of the Padres, so great was the respect in which the Fathers were held. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Stanislaus had sometime previous left the Mission of San Jos&eacute; and taken command of numerous tribes at Mariposa, numbering about 4,000. He, also, was well educated, brave and talented, but preferred the freedom of wild life and the exercise of authority over the tribes, to the tame civilization of the Missions. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Yoscolo sought Stanislaus, cultivated his friendship, and the two joined forces, the former becoming the leader. These events occured in May, 1831. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The government took steps immediately to pursue and chastise the offenders. General Vallejo collected a force from the different presidios, and called also for volunteers. In two or three weeks he had organized a body of 200 men, armed and equipped, for the pursuit. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Indians were encamped on the Stanislaus river to the number of several thousand,--men, women and children, for fishing and general enjoyment. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Californians reached the camp and prepared to attack it. As soon as the presence of the troops was known, the enemy formed an ingenious plan to evade them. A large number of bundles of grass were set afloat down the stream, and as the current took them past General Vallejo's camp, in the indistinct light of the moon the soldiers mistook them for Indians, and supposed that their wily foes were getting away in a body; whereupon, the entire force set out in pursuit of the supposed aborigines, who, after being followed some distance down the stream, were discovered actually to be men of straw. Meanwhile, the real Indians had taken up their march to the interior and where they were safe from all pursuit, as no white man would follow them into those well-nigh inaccessible retreats.  Some time after, Yoscolo, with about 200 picked men, made an attack in the night upon the Mission of Santa Clara, for the purpose of plunder. Breaking into the stores, they helped themselves to whatever they chose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>This new outrage on the part of these Indians aroused the military spirit of the Californians anew. Juan Prado Mesa gathered one hundred men in a few days, with whom he marched against the enemy, taking with him also a piece of artillery. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mesa was a great Indian fighter. He knew his enemies, and did not underestimate their cunning and ability; yet, at the same time, he had no fear of them. Yoscolo, seeing him approach, came out from his retreat, and with his force went part way down the mountain to meet him. A desperate encounter ensued, in which both sides showed great intrepidity. The Indian leader marshaled his forces in the form of a square, in true military style, and ordered his men to lie down and discharge the arrows from a recumbent position, in which there would be less risk of being hit by the bullets of their opponents, who were armed with old-fashioned muskets, carbines and flint-lock pistols. The battle raged all day, the savages showing great stubbornness in continuing it. Only when their arrows had all been discharged did they finally yield to the Californians. Their leader, when taken, was found to be wounded. He and the more prominent of the band under him were immediately beheaded. The remainder were turned over to the Mission of Santa Clara to be civilized and Christianized anew. About one hundred Indians were killed and wounded in this battle. Of the Californians only eight or ten were killed, but a large number were wounded. Among the killed were two brothers Cibrian, of a well-known family of the pueblo of San Jos&eacute;. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Yoscolo's head was affixed by the hair to the top of a pole planted in front of the church at Santa Clara, and remained there for several days as a warning to other Indians. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIX  <HI REND="italics">Don Jose de la Guerra y Noriega and His Family</HI>
025.sgm:<P>STANISLAUS, with a force of about eighty Indians, came down from the mountains in May, 1840, to the rancho of Guillermo Castro, at San Lorenzo, and to the rancho of the Peraltas, at San Antonio (East Oakland), and captured several hundred head of horses. A day or two after, Castro, with seventeen men, went in pursuit. A fight took place on the banks of the San Joaquin river. Stanislaus formed his men in military order; and directed them to lie down, and not to discharge the arrows at random, but to make sure of a white man each time. The battle lasted about three hours, during which two of the bravest of the fighters, the Romero brothers, were wounded. One of them could not help expressing admiration for the bravery of Stanislaus, as he noticed his conduct during the fight, and he informed Castro, who was in command, that it would be impossible to win, as the Indians were in superior force and were well supplied with arrows. The Californians then withdrew, with their recovered horses. The loss of the enemy could not be definitely ascertained, but it was considerable in killed and wounded.</P>
025.sgm:<P>In the summer of 1841 the Indians of the Clear Lake region committed some depredations, and troops, to the number of fifty or sixty, were sent out under command of Captain Salvador Vallejo to vanquish them. Reaching the Indians, he found them in their <HI REND="italics">temescales</HI>
025.sgm:<P>No doubt the Indians deserved some chastisement for the offenses, or at least their leaders did, but no such punishment as was inflicted.</P>
025.sgm:<P>Solano, after whom Solano county was called, was a noted chief. He exercised great influence over the tribes, and had the confidence and respect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>In 1843, sixty or seventy Indians, commanded by the brother of Yoscolo came to the rancho San Pablo, stole several hundred horses and then retreated. One of the owners of the rancho, with his brother and four other Californians, and two domesticated Indians, went in pursuit. The thieves were found in the neighborhood of Mount Diablo. The little party approached, and succeeded in capturing two of the Indians, whom they put to instant death. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The main body of the Indians coming up, a fight took place, lasting two or three hours, during which the horse of the leader of the party was killed under him. He made a barricade of the body of the animal and fought behind it, and in the fight he shot the leader of the savages dead with his pistol,--the same chief who had killed Briones in 1839. After the fall of their leader the others became dismayed, and retreated, leaving three or four dead upon the field and abandoning the stolen horses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Indians sometimes fought with poisoned arrows. In fighting expeditions the Californians were usually accompanied by an Indian doctor, who was provided with an herb which he used as an antidote to the poison. Indians, themselves, also made use of it. When a man was wounded by an arrow the Indian doctor applied his mouth to the wound and sucked out the blood and the poison with it. He then chewed some of the herb and injected it into the wound. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Some time prior to 1860 a man named O'Connor obtained possession of a portion of the Rancho San Pablo by purchase, transfer or otherwise. The ranchero permitted him to remain, respecting his claim, and did not distrust him so long as he remained upon his own premises, but would not allow the slightest encroachment upon land the owner occupied as a homestead. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Squatters would take possession of lands belonging to the Californians. A certain ranchero, by his coolness and bravery, succeeded in driving them from his premises and in keeping them off, sometimes facing guns and pistols. He never had to fire upon a man, though fully armed on these occasions and on the alert to use his weapons, if necessary.The owner of the rancho, one day in 1860, riding over his land, mounted on a fine horse, with a reata on his saddle, noticed that some laborers employed by O'Connor had come over the border and were at work upon his land. He peremptorily ordered them off, and threatened to thrash them with the reata if they did not instantly obey. O'Connor coming up to interfere, commenced an angry dispute, drew a pistol, and was in the act of firing at the ranchero <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The reata was a slender woven cord about eighty feet in length, and made of very strong leather or strips of hide untanned. In the hands of a Californian it was not only a very useful implement, as well as means of amusement at times, but was also a powerful weapon, as has been shown by the instance just mentioned. It was carefully handled, as much so as a firearm but accidents sometimes happened from its use. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A ranchero of my acquaintance was once in the act of securing the reata to the pommel of the saddle, just after a steer had been lassoed, when his hand got under the lasso, between it and the saddle, and the strain which came at that instant almost severed the fingers of his hand from the remainder. In two or three weeks thereafter lock-jaw set in, from which he died. There are numbers of instances where a Californian has lost a thumb or forefinger of the right hand by having it caught and cut off in the same manner by the reata, while in the act of securing it to the saddle. </P>
025.sgm:<P>To the Californian the lasso was an indispensable part of his equipment on all occasions when he started away from home. In expeditions against the Indians and in military campaigns, every man took his reata along with him, not only for use for ordinary purposes, but as a weapon of offense and defense in cases of necessity. If, on starting out, he had been compelled to choose between pistol and reata which to take with him, he would have chosen the latter as being the more useful of the two. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I remember where the use of the reata in an extraordinary way saved a man's life. Between San Luis Obispo and Guadalupe, the regular road in some parts was quite sandy. Traveling over it was heavy work. Another and at times better road ran nearer the ocean, part of the way along the beach when the tide served. Don Luis Estudillo happened to be going from Guadalupe to San Luis Obispo one day in the spring of 1875, and reached the Arroyo Grande at the moment a wagon and four horses, driven by a young man, were struggling in the water, after an 'attempt to ford, when the tide was high, at the point where the beach road crossed that estuary. Seeing the stranger in this plight, being borne out by the current into the ocean and hearing his cries for help, Don Luis prepared to assist in a rescue. He knew it would not be prudent to plunge his horse into the swift <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>About the year 1801 Jos&eacute; de la Guerra y Noriega, a captain in the Spanish army, came from Mexico and located at Santa Barbara, as comandante of that presidio. He was born about 1775 at Novales Santander, in Spain. When Mexico severed allegiance to Spain he resigned his commission in the army and was elected as <HI REND="italics">diputado</HI>
025.sgm:<P>I became well acquainted with the old gentleman in 1842. He still retained his title of captain, by which he was always called. I sold him large quantities of goods at different times. He was a close buyer, generally paying cash (Mexican and Spanish doubloons). What money the vessels collected was used for the purchase of hides. Being introduced by Henry Mellus to the captain in 1842, he received me with a good deal of dignity and coolness, and rather pompously; but on learning that I was the son of Don Guillermo Davis, who had visited the coast many years before, he welcomed me cordially; paying my father many compliments; saying that he knew him well, and had bought from him largely. I was afterward quite a favorite of his, and came to know him well. While supercargo of the "Don Quixote" in 1842 and '43 I made four or five sales to him, ranging from $2000 to $4000 each. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On these occasions Noriega took me to the attic of his house, where he kept his treasure, the room being used exclusively for that purpose.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:There was no stairway, the attic being reached by a ladder, which was removed when not in use. In this room were two old-fashioned Spanish chairs, and ranged round about were twelve or fifteen <HI REND="italics">coras</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Many articles were also required to supply his ranchos, and he paid his vaqueros in goods, as they had not much use for money; and on these he made more or less profit. He also sold his hides and tallow, besides otter and other fur skins, for cash; and had thus collected his great treasure. He had no occasion to spend money except for purchases from the vessels. Being a good merchant and shrewd manager, he knew how to take care of money. Noriega had also at Santa Barbara a vineyard, from which he made wine and aguardiente. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1846 I owned one-third of the brig "Euphemia," the other two-thirds being owned by Captain Grimes and his nephew Hiram Grimes. I was supercargo, and being at Santa Barbara with the vessel, Captain Noriega asked to see the invoice of my goods, and seemed very anxious to purchase. That day and the next, I sold him about ten thousand dollars' worth, for which he paid coin. After visiting San Diego on this trip, and returning in January, 1847, I sold him goods to the amount of three or four thousand dollars more, which he paid for in cash and in hides. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Some of the old gentleman's boys were a little wild. Knowing that their father had plenty of money and the place where it was deposited, they devised a plan to secure some of it for their own use. The ladder was kept in the old captain's bedroom, beyond their reach. So they climbed to the roof from the outside, and took off two or three of the tiles, beneath which were standing these baskets of gold. Reaching down into the baskets with an improvised pitchfork, they drew out as many coins as they thought it advisable to take. How often this operation was repeated and how much of the old gentleman's treasure thus disappeared is not known, but the trick was soon discovered and reported, and this mode of abstraction was brought to an end. As the captain did not know how much money he had in the baskets, of course he could not tell how much he had lost. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>When I first knew him, he was nearly seventy and retained his fine personal appearance. He was the sire of many handsome sons and daughters. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Being the wealthiest man in that part of California, and having so much money, he was applied to by the rancheros for loans when they were in need of funds. The loans were made on promises to repay in beef cattle at the killing season, or in heifers, or in hides and tallow after cattle had been killed; the lender taking the borrower's word as security, as was the custom. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the spring of the year, the number of heifers agreed upon would be delivered to him to add to his own stock, heifers being more easily domesticated in a new place than older cattle; or at the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>When cattle, old or young, were transferred from one rancho to another, as was frequently the case in the dealings of the rancheros with each other, it was generally done in the spring of the year, the new feed being then plentiful, and they were easier <HI REND="italics">aquerenciado</HI>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER L  <HI REND="italics">Henry Mellus: From Fo'c'sle Hand to Merchant</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE ship "Courier" arrived at Monterey, from Boston, on the 3d of July, 1826, Captain Cunningham master and supercargo, and traded on the coast, collecting hides and tallow. Thomas Shaw, who came out from Boston in the vessel as a carpenter, after her arrival was made clerk and assistant supercargo. He was supercargo of the "Lagoda," when she was here in 1835, and also of the "Monsoon" which arrived here in 1839. George Vincent was second mate of the "Courier," and commanded the "Monsoon" in 1839. He also commanded the ship "Sterling," which left Boston, in October, 1843, and arrived here early in 1844. She was consigned to Thomas B. Park. Henry Richardson came out on this trip from Boston, as clerk of the vessel, and died here of typhoid fever. He was a young man of great promise, and his death was much lamented by, those who knew him. Captain Vincent also commanded the brig "Sabine, which left Boston in the early part of 1848, arriving here in the midst of the gold excitement. Holbrook was owner and supercargo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The ship "Monsoon" was lying in the harbor, in 1839, and Sutter left from along-side for the Sacramento valley, with the schooners "Isabel" and "Nicolas" and his own four-oared boats, as previously described. Just prior to our leaving, the whole company was invited on board the ship for a little farewell entertainment. We were handsomely treated; toasts were given, and a pleasant time enjoyed. As the visitors left the vessel to embark on their expedition, they were followed by friendly expressions and best wishes of Captain Vincent, his officers and crew. After 1848 the captain continued to reside in San Francisco, and made one or two trips to Mexico to purchase goods. In 1850 I had my office in the brick building at the northwest corner of Sacramento and Montgomery streets, on the second floor, where Captain Vincent also had an office and kept his valuables. The second story was reached by a flight of stairs from an alley that connected with Montgomery street. While the great fire of May, 1851, was raging, the captain rushed up to the office <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>In 1837 Thomas B. Park came out in the ship "Alert" from Boston, in the capacity of assistant supercargo. On Robinson's return to Boston in the same year, in the ship "California," Park took his place as agent, and remained here ten or twelve years, and up to his death. He was an educated merchant and gentleman. Though not liking the rough travel of a new country, and the rambling kind of trade peculiar to California, where a good deal of push and energy were required, but preferring much to be in his own office attending to his correspondence, with bookkeeper and clerks at hand, whom he could direct in the business, still he was willing to adapt himself to the circumstances, and did travel about to secure his trade; sought out his customers and followed them up, sold his goods, and filled his vessels with hides. But he consumed more time than others, not moving actively, nor pushing the business very vigorously.  There was a great deal of competition in the early days in the selling of goods from vessels, particularly at Yerba Buena, which was a distributing point. Whenever there were two or more vessels here at a time, the supercargoes were very active in getting round in their boats, up the creeks, or with their horses and vaqueros, to various points about the bay, in order to be first at the different ranchos and Missions, to sell goods, and collect hides and tallow. The rancheros preferred to buy from the vessel rather than from the local stores, for the reason that they then got supplies at first hand, and, as they thought, to better advantage. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Henry Mellus came to the coast in the brig "Pilgrim," before the mast, in 1834, Frank Thompson, captain. The vessel was consigned to Alfred Robinson. When the brig arrived, the ship "Alert," Captain E. F. Faucon, was here, Alfred Robinson, agent and supercargo.) He transferred Mellus from the vessel, and employed him as clerk. Most of the Boston ships in those days had on board three or four boys, of good families, who were sent here to get a little experience, and learn something of nautical life. Mellus was one of them. The "Pilgrim," a smaller vessel than the others belonging to the same owners, was sent as a tender to assist them at rancho landings, such as at the Refugio and other points distant from the regular ports, and to deliver goods and receive hides and tallow. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Robinson was thorough and systematic in all mercantile matters-a man of good commercial schooling. He had a great dislike for the "Alert's" captain, Faucon, and also for John H. Everett, the clerk of the vessel, who certainly were very disagreeable. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>In order to get them away from the coast as quickly as possible, Robinson loaded the "Pilgrim" rapidly, transferred Faucon and Everett, and dispatched them, with the brig, home. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1837 Mellus returned to Boston, with Robinson, in the ship "California," the agency being left in charge of Park. Returning in 1839, as assistant supercargo of the "California," Mellus for a time co-operated with Park in the agency, and showed great aptness for business, becoming a successful merchant in San Francisco. He was not so demonstrative and unreserved as Howard, but said very little, and that little to the point. Though unostentatious, he was always pleasant and agreeable, and magnetic in manner. An excellent manager, he planned everything carefully beforehand, and all the details of his business were executed without jar Or confusion. Everything moved smoothly, just as designed, and came to a successful issue. He kept his plans to himself. When he sent off his boats from the vessel's side, no one unconnected with the Vessel knew their destinations, and no advantage could be taken by competitors. In 1846 he married Anita Johnson, the daughter of an Englishman who had married a Mexican lady from Sonora. Anita was born in Los Angeles. She was pretty and attractive. A number of children followed the marriage After relinquishing the agency for Bryant &amp; Sturgis in 1848, Mellus went to Boston with his family on a visit. He returned to this coast in the winter of 1849-50, at which time he had an attack of apoplexy. He partially recovered, but never was the Henry Mellus of former days. H. F. Teschemacher and he were close friends, and he was also on the same friendly terms with Alfred Robinson. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mellus' family lived at Los Angeles after his marriage. On one occasion a grand party took place there, at which were present Mr. and Mrs. Mellus, Teschemacher, and other company, among whom was a young officer of the United States army named Bonnycastle. During the dancing, Mrs. Mellus and Bonnycastle happened to be in the same set, and at this time the army officer was grossly guilty of the impropriety of pressing the lady's hand ardently. She immediately left the room, feeling much aggrieved, and informed her husband of what had occurred. The result was a challenge from Mellus to Bonnycastle, which was accepted. The latter having the choice of weapons, selected rifles, at forty paces. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the morning appointed for the meeting Mellus was reclining on a lounge in his house, very uneasy, and much excited at the prospect before him. Being of a very sensitive nature, the contemplated duel was quite contrary to his inclinations and tastes. He looked forward to it with forebodings which he could not control. A friend much attached to him came into the room, and seeing his nervous condition, proposed a compromise, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The parties met, and fired, Bonnycastle being wounded in the hand. A ring on one of his fingers was hit by the bullet and carried away, and the finger shattered. Thus the duel terminated. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Up to the time of the attack of apoplexy, Mellus was known as a man of remarkably strong mind, with head always clear; but afterward it was evident that his intellect was somewhat impaired, although his conversation was rational and intelligent. I remember meeting him at San Diego in 1850, whither he had gone for his health. He frequently came to the house where my wife and I were staying; and he seemed solicitous about his diet, saying that he dared not imbibe wines of any kind, having to be very careful of himself. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The action on the part of Mellus, in relation to Howard, created a feeling against him in San Francisco and on the coast among those who had known them here in the former days, and he became quite unpopular; but I did not join in the outcry against him. My regard for him remained undiminished.</P>
025.sgm:<P>After he had retired from Mellus, Howard &amp; Co., his brother Frank went into the concern as partner, and the style of the firm became Howard, Mellus &amp; Co. Frank shortly after withdrew; the firm name was changed to Howard &amp; Green, and so continued to the time the partnership was dissolved by the exposure of Green and his departure from the city. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LI  <HI REND="italics">Rivalry and Goodfeeling Between Traders</HI>
025.sgm:<P>REFERRING again to the competition among the early merchants, I recollect some instances of pretty sharp practice in the collection of hides and tallow. Merchants trusted the rancheros largely for the goods they sold them, and the indebtedness was paid after cattle were killed. The ranchero being more or less in debt at all times, would promise a merchant to supply him with a certain quantity of hides and tallow at a stipulated time; but shortly before the specified date the ranchero would be called upon by another merchant to whom he was likewise indebted for goods, and who was also anxious to secure hides and tallow, on account of what was owing to him, and also to make up a cargo for shipment. By persistent efforts and persuasion he would so work upon the ranchero--who was good-natured and obliging, and desirous of accommodating all his friends, as far as he was able--as to secure for himself a a large part of the hides and tallow which had been promised to the first one, and carry them off triumphantly, somewhat to the chagrin and discomfiture of the merchant who had the first contract, who, coming shortly afterward, would find that his competitor had got ahead of him. The ranchero would then make the best of it, explaining that he could not resist the importunities of the other, and had been obliged to let the hides and tallow go to the first arrival. To make good his original promise, he would let the second comer have the hides and tallow remaining, and would collect everything about the place that could be made available, even frequently ordering more cattle to be slaughtered, the hides taken off, and some tallow melted out forthwith. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When this happened, hides were often taken in a green state, and staked out and dried by the merchants at Yerba Buena. I have frequently had them spread, by stakes, at the vacant space by the water side, between Washington and California streets, which was then a meadow, covered with short green grass. I have also seen them hung up thickly on ropes stretched over the decks of vessels, the same way the clothes of the crew <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>It was impossible for the rancheros to pay all the merchants at once, as it required time to kill a large number of cattle and prepare the hides and tallow. The merchant who reached the rancho first, generally had the best bargain, though in the course of time the others usually got their share. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1841 a ranchero had promised to deliver to me a quantity of hides and tallow on a certain day. I went at the time specified, to the ranch landing with the schooner "Isabel," expecting a full load, but I found that Henry Mellus had preceded me the day before, with one of his schooners, and had secured nearly the entire stock. Upon my appearing, the ranchero and his sons expressed a good deal of concern and many regrets. They went to work and collected all the dry hides they could find on the place, had a lot of bulls slaughtered immediately, and the hides taken off, and some of the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Frank Mellus, a younger brother of Henry, came from Boston in 1840, in the "Alert," and was employed as clerk and educated by Henry in business. On his arrival, he was green-looking and bashful, and he always retained boyish appearance and bearing. He failed to command that respect and deference which was felt towards his brother. He was a good fellow however, though impulsive and easily excited, and proved to be quite smart and efficient. The Californians gave him the nickname of <HI REND="italics">Fulminante</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In 1850 a beautiful bark, of several hundred tons, owned by Henry Mellus, Don Alfredo Robinson and others, arrived from Boston with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:cargo designed especially for Los Angeles. She anchored at San Pedro and discharged the goods. The vessel was named after the Christian name of a California lady, then the wife of a very wealthy gentleman living in one of the southern counties. Several years since, this lady, while at the Palace Hotel, was called upon by an acquaintance of hers, a Spanish-American gentleman, who, in the course of conversation, asked if she would sing; she replied, facetiously and with the utmost good nature, " <HI REND="italics">No puedo cantar, pero puedo encantar</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Spear and Henry Mellus were very good friends. Each called the other <HI REND="italics">compadre</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The following is a list of the vessels which were sent out to Henry Mellus by Bryant &amp; Sturgis, while acting as their agent: ship "California," Captain Arthur; ship "Alert," Captain Phelps; ship "Barnstable," (first voyage) Captain Hatch; ship "Barnstable," (second voyage) Captain Hall; ship "Admittance," Captain Peterson; bark "Tasso," Captain Libbey; and bark "Olga," Captain Bull. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Aguirre was one of the most prominent early merchants of California. At the time of the separation of Mexico from the Spanish government, he was in business in the city of Mexico, and largely interested in trade with Manila and Canton, which was carried on extensively between those places and Mexico. The importation of cargoes of Manila and China goods, was a branch of the business he conducted. He remained loyal to Spain after the separation, and in consequence was expelled from Mexico, as was the case with many other loyal Spaniards. Coming to California he made his mercantile headquarters at Santa Barbara and San Diego. He owned the brig "Leonidas," and afterward the "J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana." Fine-looking and of commanding appearance, though of rather a severe bearing toward strangers, his manners were affable and genial to those who knew him well. He was a genuine merchant, thoroughly educated. His first wife was a daughter of Prefect Estudillo, of San Diego. In 1842 Aguirre had the finest residence in Santa Barbara. His wife dying there, he afterward married her sister. He was a great church man, and a favorite of the missionaries. He had visited the United States; was well-read, and was appreciative of our institutions and government. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In conversing with me he gave expression to his views with regard to us; he thought that at the rate we were progressing in time we would be the greatest nation on earth. One thing about which he spoke seemed to have produced in him amazement: that in the courts, which he sometimes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Aguirre was my guest from the early part of 1848 up to the end of 1849. Spear was there at the same time, and Aguirre and he became cronies. Often they had dissensions, but only upon political and national affairs. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The proposition that the United States might acquire Cuba by conquest or purchase had been broached, and Spear argued in favor of it, which would anger Aguirre, and he would denounce the project in severe terms, declaring in emphatic language that Spain would fight to the last drop of blood before she would surrender the island. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This worthy gentleman had a large estate. The San Jacinto Nuevo Rancho, of eleven leagues, and several other smaller ranchos in San Diego county, and two or three leagues in Los Angeles county, were among his possessions, besides many cattle and horses. Four children and his wife survived him. The widow afterward married another Spaniard named Ferrer, who squandered all the property which the first husband had left to her. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LII  <HI REND="italics">de Pedrorena, Merchant and Stockton's Lieutenant</HI>
025.sgm:<P>IN 1838 Don Miguel de Pedrorena, a resident of Peru, arrived here, being at the time part owner and supercargo of the "Delmira." The vessel was under the Peruvian flag, and John Vioget was her captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The "Delmira" was loaded with tallow, and left the coast in 1839, Don Miguel remaining here. In 1840 the brig "Juan Jos&eacute;," Captain Duncan, was sent to him from Peru, he being part owner and supercargo. The other owners, whom he represented, were in Lima-a wealthy house. Most of their goods were imported from Europe to Peru, and they sought to increase their business by these ventures to California. The "Juan Jos&eacute;" loaded with tallow, and returned to Peru. Afterward she made another voyage hither for the same sort of cargo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Miguel was a native of Spain, and belonged to one of the first families of Madrid. After receiving an education in his own country he was sent to London, where he was educated in English, becoming a complete scholar. Most of the Castillian race of the upper class are proud and aristocratic; but Don Miguel, though of high birth, was exceedingly affable, polite, gracious in manner and bearing, and, in every respect, a true gentleman. He married a daughter of Prefect Estudillo, and resided in San Diego until the time of his death in 1850, leaving one son, Miguel, and two daughters, Elena and Ysabel. He was a member of the convention at Monterey in 1849, for the formation of the state constitution. He owned the Cajon Rancho and San Jacinto Nuevo Rancho, each containing eleven leagues, with some cattle and horses. Notwithstanding these large holdings of land he was in rather straightened circumstances in his latter years, and so much in need of money that when I visited San Diego in the early part of 1850 he offered to sell me thirty-two (32) quarter-blocks of land (102 lots) in San Diego at a low figure. He had acquired the property in the winter of 1849-50, at the alcalde's sale. I did not care for the land, but being flush, and having a large income from my business, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In Madrid he had several brothers and other relatives, one of his brothers being a Minister at that time in the Cabinet of the reigning monarch. During the last two or three years of his life, these relatives becoming aware of his unfortunate circumstances, wrote to him repeatedly, urging him to come home to Spain, and bring his family with him. They sent him means, and assured him that he would be welcomed. Though poor, his proud disposition led him to decline all these offers. Popular with everybody in the department, the recollections of him by those who knew him are exceedingly pleasant. Spear was much attracted toward him on account of his fine scholarship and great store of information. He did all he could to make the acquaintance mutually agreeable. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Commodore Stock-ton was making his preparations for the recapture of Los Angeles, in the latter part of 1846, at San Diego, at which point the fleet then lay, Don Miguel Pedrorena offered his services as cavalryman, which were accepted. He also rendered aid to Stockton before he started on the expedition, by procuring him supplies of horses. Being an active man, familiar with the country and people, he did this very readily.  Don Santiaguito E. Argello also volunteered his services to Stockton, and assisted Pedrorena. Both of these men were appointed captains in Stockton's force, and both had cavalry commands. Major Samuel J. Hensley, who joined Stockton at Yerba Buena in the fall of 1846, and went with him to San Diego in the "Congress," also joined Pedrorena and Argello in scouring the country for horses, and getting as many of the Californians as they could to join the expedition. Hensley also had a command under Stockton. Not only before the force started, but during their progress from San Diego to the river of San Gabriel, these three men rendered invaluable service to the commodore by inducing other Californians to join and augment the force. I think there were about one hundred Californians on Stockton's side, when the conflict took place. Hensley, who had been in the country a good while, was an accomplished horseman, entirely at home in the saddle. He and Pedrorena and Argello were brave men, cool, collected, self-possessed, determined, and consequently were of value. In the battle they all displayed great judgment and bravery. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Santiaguito was an Indian fighter, and had been always foremost in proceeding promptly against the Indians whenever they committed depredations on the people, as they often did. He organized many or the hasty expeditions which were gotten up on the spur of the moment to pursue and chastise them on such occasions, and was very successful in overtaking and punishing them as they deserved. Often he was in a good deal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In 1834 Alfred Robinson and William G. Gale, who were associated in the agency for Bryant &amp; Sturgis, were at Santa Barbara, awaiting the arrival of the ship "California" at that port. One day seeing a vessel approach the town, between the islands, they went toward the beach and made her out to be their vessel. On their way they met Thomas Shaw, supercargo of the "Lagoda," coming up to the town, when Robinson called out exultingly to him, "Look out, Shawl There's the 'California' coming; you'll have some competition now." </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Missions were rich at the time, and the two agents, in order to make large sales of goods, concocted an ingenious plan, which they carried into effect, as follows: After the captain had been ordered to take the ship to Monterey, they started up the coast on horses, with their invoices of goods. Pretending to be rivals, Gale would go first, on coming to a Mission, and present his invoice to the Padres, and after they had made large selections from the list, Robinson, who was much liked by the Fathers and friendly with all of them, smilingly presented his invoice, and made extensive sales also. Repeating this at other Missions, by the time Monterey was reached they had sold an enormous quantity of merchandise. Each had prepared a list of the cargo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Gale was known on the coast by the name of Don Guillermo el Cuatro Ojos (Four Eyes), from the fact that he wore glasses; this name having been bestowed by the Californians, who were given to nicknaming a person with anything peculiar in his appearance or manner. By such name he was known to everybody during his stay here. The custom prevailed more particularly in the southern portion of the department, where two ladies, cousins of my wife, were nicknamed, one " <HI REND="italics">Nutria</HI>
025.sgm: " (Sea Otter) and the other " <HI REND="italics">Pichona</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The Padres not only taught the Indians to build vessels and boats, but instructed them also in their management, and made sailors of them. They were sometimes employed as such by myself and other merchants at Yerba Buena, upon boats that were attached to the vessels, or that were owned on shore, in the delivery of goods and collecting hides and tallow. The Padres also instructed the Indians how to shoot and capture otters in the best manner. Hence, their accumulation of so large a number of fur skins, when the sea otters were plentiful about the bay and along the coast. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>I remember that in 1833, hides and tallow were brought to the vessel in schooners and launches manned and commanded by Indians, from the Mission Dolores and the Missions of San Jos&eacute;, Santa Clara and San Rafael, the vessels and boats having been built at the Missions by the Indians, under instructions from the Padres, after designs and models prepared by them of a very ancient pattern. They reminded me of illustrations of old Spanish vessels. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Richardson owned one of these vessels, built at the Mission of San Rafael, called the "Tava," and the old Indian Monico was one of the crew, who were all Indians. Old Domingo Peralta had another of these peculiar boats, built at one of the Missions. Nathan Spear had control of a boat of this kind in 1839, belonging to the Mission of San Jos&eacute;. It will be seen that the Padres, in addition to their missionary work and the teaching of Various trades to the Indians, were also shipwrights and skilled workmen in the building of vessels and boats. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About 1833 the brig "Loriot," Captain Nye, arrived from Honolulu with a cargo of merchandise, A. B. Thompson, supercargo. Shortly after, orders were sent from Monterey to have the vessel and cargo seized, upon the presumption that full duties had not been paid. Don Jos&eacute; Sanchez was directed to board the vessel and arrest Thompson. He accordingly proceeded to do so, accompanied by a squad of soldiers. Reaching the deck of the vessel and approaching to make the arrest, Sanchez drew a pistol and aimed it at Thompson, who instantly struck it from the officer's hand, and at the same moment knocked him down and jumped upon him. The soldiers came to Sanchez' aid and gave him protection. Thompson was taken ashore and imprisoned at the Presidio, where he remained for some considerable time. After his arrest the whole cargo was removed to shore, together with the stores of the vessel, and the sails were unbent and taken away. Finally an order was received from headquarters to release the cargo and other property of the vessel and to liberate Thompson, which was carried into effect. During the detention the cargo and stores deteriorated in condition, particularly the latter, which were also much diminished in quantity. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The trip of the "Loriot" to Honolulu from Boston, prior to her coming here, was one of the longest on record--occupying two hundred days. On this voyage, Henry, a younger brother of Captain Paty, came out, also Eli Southworth, both from Plymouth, Mass. Henry was part owner of the "Don Quixote," and in the year 1840, while the vessel was on a voyage from Valparaiso to Honolulu, many of the crew were sick from small-pox contracted in Chili, and several died on the passage, which so affected the mind of Henry that though not taking the disease, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>As an exception to the uniformity of friendship and good feeling which prevailed on the coast in early days between the foreigners and Californians, and, in fact, between all classes in all their relations, I wish to mention that Everett, who has been spoken of as coming here in the "Alert," was a disagreeable man. He arrived again in the bark "Tasso," as supercargo, with Captain Hastings, in 1840. Mean, selfish, and repulsive in his appearance and manners, his unhappy disposition was shown by his continually quarreling with Captain Hastings, who was a gentleman. However, notwithstanding his unpopularity and the general disfavor with which he was regarded, he succeeded in filling his vessel, for the reason that the people were in want of the goods which he had brought, and therefore they took them in exchange for hides and tallow. Everett, contrary to the usual custom of the merchants, never made presents to the people, or showed them any friendly courtesies. They themselves were always generous to strangers, making them welcome to whatever they had. They would have disdained an offer of compensation for such kindness. But the merchants, having been so well treated by them, and having shared, more or less, in their hospitality, naturally reciprocated the good feeling, and showed their appreciation and friendship by making presents from time to time, thereby cultivating a kindly spirit. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIII  <HI REND="italics">The Great Hide and Tallow Trade</HI>
025.sgm:<P>GOVERNOR PACHECO, a boy in 1842, was sent to Honolulu to be educated. After remaining about two years, under the tuition of Mr. and Mrs. Johnston, he returned. The ship "Sterling" then being in port, he went on board, and for a year or more traveled about in company with Thomas B. Park, supercargo, from whom he received a good deal of instruction in mercantile matters; it being a fine opportunity for the young man, who was bright and teachable. In 1861 he went to Europe, on a tour of travel and observation. At that time, and prior, his stepfather, Captain Wilson, and his mother and the family owned several extensive ranchos in San Luis Obispo county, adjoining one another, which the captain had bought from different owners, and which contained fourteen thousand to sixteen thousand head of cattle, and many horses; being a large number of cattle for a single owner at that date. After the death of Captain Wilson, the family met with the misfortune of losing the cattle and horses by starvation in the dry season of 1864, nearly all of their stock perishing for lack of feed. At this time vaqueros were busily employed taking off the hides. They were obliged to work very speedily (so many cattle were dead, and others dying day by day), to save the skins in marketable condition. The hiring of men was expensive, and left but little profit on the hides. The great loss was the beginning and cause of financial troubles, and they lost nearly the whole of their land. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A statement of the export of hides and tallow from the department of California, from 1826 to 1848, has been prepared by me, gathered partly from actual knowledge of the cargoes taken by particular vessels, and partly estimated from the size of the vessels which loaded previous to my residence here; these vessels always taking full cargoes on their return to the Atlantic coast, viz:  <HI REND="blockindent">No. of Hides <LB><HSEP>Ship "Brookline," departure 1831<HSEP>40,000 <LB><HSEP>Ship "Courier," Capt. Cunningham, departure 1828<HSEP>40,000</HI>
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025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>With regard to the amount of tallow exported during the above period--I have already mentioned that the killing season was when the cattle were the fattest, each bullock producing on an average three to four arrobas (twenty-five pounds) of tallow, besides the <HI REND="italics">manteca</HI>
025.sgm: reserved for home use. In the winter season, when cattle were killed for home consumption and for the use of the vessels, the tallow would average perhaps not over one arroba to the bullock. Taking the whole year through, I place the product of tallow, for export, at two arrobas for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The Californians cut up a great many hides for the use of the ranchos. Strips of the skins were used for reatas and in building corrals, also for covering wagons and for many other purposes. Many of the rancheros tanned their own leather, for <HI REND="italics">corazas, mochilas, anguilas</HI>
025.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">tapaderas</HI>
025.sgm:<P>A vessel in the bay, about once a week ordered a bullock for ship's use from one of the ranchos nearest by, which would be brought in alive by a vaquero, aided by a <HI REND="italics">cabestro</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Steel came here in command of the bark "Kent," in 1835, from Boston. He was good-natured and jocular, a vegetarian, and during his stay never touched meat. The Fourth of July being celebrated in Yerba Buena in 1836, by a public dinner, Captain Steel was present, and also John Vioget, two men who were like Damon and Pythias--of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Vioget was one of the principals in an incident of somewhat ridiculous nature. In 1841 a Russian by the name of Don Andres Hoeppner, was employed for a considerable time by General Vallejo as teacher of music for his daughters, at Sonoma, and frequently visited Yerba Buena. Being an excellent musician-playing with taste and skill the piano, violin and guitar--he was popular and well liked, such men being much appreciated by the people, who had little in the way of good music or amusements. Being sociable and companionable he frequented Vioget's saloon, and became a particular friend of the proprietor. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The latter was known on the coast as a great eater, and prided himself on that reputation. Hoeppner and several others being in the saloon one day enjoying themselves, the question of gormandising was brought before the company, and he challenged Vioget to a contest to determine who was the biggest eater in the department. Hoeppner not being known or suspected in connection with gastronomic feats, the challenge was instantly accepted, and a day was fixed for the contest. Invitations were sent out to the merchants to attend. I was invited, as were also Spear and others. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When the trial commenced pancakes were brought on, plate after plate, and speedily devoured. Hoeppner was one plate ahead.  The next course was beefsteaks, all of which disappeared as rapidly as had the other, Hoeppner led a little on the steaks. Next was <HI REND="italics">gisado</HI>
025.sgm:, a meat stew in the Spanish style--a delicious dish, several plates of which were consumed. Next came <HI REND="italics">asado</HI>
025.sgm:, or beef broiled on the spit, many plates. Hoeppner a little ahead. After this, beans, Spanish style, large quantities of which were disposed of; succeeded by <HI REND="italics">tamales</HI>
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025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Vioget was of large frame; Hoeppner taller, nearly six feet in height, slender, but well proportioned. I have no doubt each of the gormands ate food enough to satisfy a dozen hungry men. Both contestants were good musicians, Vioget playing the violin as finely as Hoeppner. The former was also an excellent civil engineer, and had been employed by Captain Sutter in surveying his lands. Don Andres Hoeppner's wife was a Russian lady, a pretty little woman, and, like women in general at Yerba Buena, was much appreciated. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vioget was afterward captain of the brig "Euphemia," in 1848. Referring to his defeat in the eating match, he said that if he had been as young as Hoeppner the latter would not have had any show at all. He was some fifteen or twenty years older.</P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIV  <HI REND="italics">Author Becomes Merchant: Buys the "Euphemia</HI>
025.sgm:<P>I WENT over to Honolulu in 1845 as supercargo of the "Don Quixote," with Captain Paty, and while there a partnership was proposed between him, his brother William and myself, under which the ownership of the vessel was to be transferred, one-half to me and one-fourth to each of the brothers; but we could not agree upon her valuation. William Paty thought the vessel was worth $8000, which I thought was too high. Captain Meek agreed with me, saying that, considering her age, $5000 or $6000 would be a good price for the bark. The negotiations, therefore, fell through, and my relations with Captain Paty ceased, under the circumstances much to my regret. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Afterward, several merchants and firms at Honolulu, among them Stephen Reynolds, who had been the United States vice-consul, E. &amp; H. Grimes, and Starkey, Janion &amp; Co. (a heavy English house), made propositions to furnish me with a vessel to trade on the California coast, the business to be partly mine. The offer of E. &amp; H. Grimes was accepted. We purchased the "Euphemia," an English brig which had been employed by Henry Skinner &amp; Co. in the Chinese trade. Then came a difficulty with regard to the papers and flag of the vessel, inasmuch as the Grimes and myself were Americans. We had selected an Englishman by the name of Thomas Russom for captain, a very good man, who was then at Honolulu; and to sail under the English flag we should have been obliged to have the papers made out in the captain's name;, but we did not think it advisable to entrust so much to one man not directly interested with us, however responsible and trustworthy he might be. In order to avoid the difficulty, Hiram Grimes, who had a good deal of influence with the premier, Mr. Wiley (an old Scotchman, who had lived in South America many years), succeeded in getting the vessel registered in his name, under the Hawaiian flag. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We then purchased the cargo of the vessel, which occupied a month, selecting with care and judgment such articles as were suited to the California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:trade, picking here and there the best we could obtain. At the same time the Patys also purchased a cargo for the "Don Quixote." The "Euphemia," with her cargo, cost between $50,000 and $60,000, my share being $17,000 or $18,000. Having saved my salary for several <illus entity="a025-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PRISON SHIP "EUPHEMIA" FORMERLY OWNED BY WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS</P>
025.sgm:<P>My mother was living in Honolulu and was wealthy, owning a large number of cattle, which were good property, as they were always in demand by the ships of war, whalers and other vessels visiting the Islands. She offered me money to assist in carrying on the business, but I declined it, preferring to act within my own resources; and I really did not need it. </P>
025.sgm:<P>These vessels both left Honolulu February 26, 1846. A strong south-easterly gale sprang up, which was in their favor, and in less than two weeks' time the bark anchored at Monterey. Our brig had occasion to touch at a lower coast port before calling at Monterey, and did not reach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Soon after we anchored, I went on board that vessel and was warmly greeted by Captain Paty and Eli Southworth, they having feared that some misfortune had happened, on account of the long delay of the brig. I then went ashore and called on General Castro, comandante-general of the department. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During this visit I ventured upon a little diplomacy, in order to place myself on a good footing with the officials, as this was my first venture of any magnitude on my own behalf. I noticed that the window and door-frames and woodwork about the headquarters were unpainted, and mentioned to the general that I had on board my vessel some paints and oils, and with his approval I would send a few kegs ashore for his use. He said those materials were scarce and he should receive them with a great deal of pleasure. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On this occasion I was accompanied by United States Consul Larkin. While we were there I was introduced to Mrs. General Castro, and we chatted for some time very pleasantly. I saw by the general's expression, when she went into the next room for a few minutes, that he was proud of her. Larkin found an opportunity to communicate, enthusiastically, "Isn't she beautiful?" and I responded, with equal enthusiasm, "Indeed, she is." </P>
025.sgm:<P>On returning to my vessel I sent and borrowed two cannons from the bark, got them aboard, and fired a salute in honor of the Mexican flag, which was promptly returned by the comandante from the fort. Thus, my introduction to the port of Monterey as a merchant in my own behalf was happily accomplished, and everything made smooth for future trade. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Then I called on the collector, Don Pablo de la Guerra. He was living with his sister, Mrs. Jimeno. He said at once that the other vessel had been there two or three weeks, and that my brig had only just got in; as both had sailed the same day, he wanted to know how that was. I said to him, "Look at the brig. She is more like a box than anything else. She is no sailer." He responded that I was correct; that she was indeed like a box, and it was not surprising that she had made a long voyage. I sent to Don Pablo from my cargo a basket of champagne, and to Mrs. Jimeno some sweet potatoes and cocoanuts, which were regarded as luxuries at Monterey. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It was customary when a vessel came into port to enter, to give the management of the custom house business to a shore merchant, who acted as broker. He made the entry, assuming the responsibility of the transaction--paving <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The law required the collector and his officers to go on board any vessel arriving with dutiable goods and make a thorough examination. Captains or supercargoes would invite merchants from on shore and other friends to accompany the officials. Quite a party assembled, the event being made one of entertainment. A handsome collation was provided of meats, fowls, jams, jellies, pies, cakes, fruits, champagne and other wines of which all would partake, and an enjoyable time be had. We spread a table, and received and entertained the guests as handsomely as any one could. Among, those present were: Henry Mellus, Captain Eliab Grimes, Don Jos&eacute; &Aacute;brego, Larkin, de la Guerra, the collector, and two or three of his officers, one of whom was Don Rafael Pinto, an attach&eacute; of the customs service <HI REND="italics">(adinana</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The custom house inspector was a curious old Mexican who had lost his teeth, and his sentences were mumbled in a queer way; but he was polite and gentlemanly withal, and while going through the formality of looking about the vessel to examine her, I accompanied him. The main hatch was off, and I said that if he wished to go down into the hold, I would have a ladder brought for his accommodation, and that he should be assisted down. He replied that he was not very particular. I remarked that there were a good many scorpions among the cargo. These creatures had got in at the Islands, and in the warm latitude they had bred very fast. When I mentioned scorpions, he stepped back, really frightened, and making up a ludicrous face, declared vehemently that he had no desire to go into the hold--thoroughly alarmed at the idea. The duties on the cargo amounted to ten thousand dollars. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The merchants, when they entered goods, used to pay about half the duties in cash, and give their notes for the remainder, payable in sixty or ninety days, the custom house allowing them this accommodation. Not having sufficient money to pay these duties--although Captain Grimes and other merchants offered to procure it for me, which offer I declined --a plan was adopted to realize more speedily upon the cargo than could have been done on the vessel and selling there, as was common. Obtaining the use for a short time of a large room in the custom house, with ample space for my purpose, the crew brought the cargo ashore, and the ship's carpenter put up a table eighty feet long, in the room so secured, on which I sampled the goods for sale. William F. Swasey, who had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The plan was an admirable success. Men, women and children gathered in crowds, finding it much more convenient than to go aboard the vessel, where the goods couldn't have been seen to advantage. They were also attracted by the novelty of the arrangements. They bought in quantities to suit. Within a week I had taken some five thousand dollars in cash, on sales amounting to fifteen thousand dollars; so that I was able to pay half of the cash duties demanded, and had some money left. My notes went into the custom house for the remainder. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The collector and his officers were always in debt to the merchants for goods. The notes they gave were sometimes turned in for duties, the customs officers arranging the matter with the government. The collector of course reported to the government all duties collected, this being its only source of revenue; and if in need of money for government use, the governor would direct the collector to negotiate to the best advantage with merchants what paper he had, at a discount. Or frequently the government owed merchants for supplies used by the troops, such as muskets, ammunition, shoes and other clothing, and would require money for the troops, who were regularly paid; and used the notes in settlement with the merchants, and to obtain money to pay the troops. The merchants were glad to take notes (which had been given for duties), either in liquidation of their claims, or for cash loaned, as they would be paid at maturity, in hides and tallow, by the parties who signed them. Mellus was at Monterey before I arrived, and he waited until I came, and secured in part liquidation of his firm's claim against the government most of the notes I gave the collector. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On my arrival, Captain Eliab Grimes was at Consul Larkin's house. He greeted me gruffly, and said, "Well, Hiram has been playing the devil down there, buying a vessel and cargo for $50,000 or $60,000, and sending her up here!" The captain, being the main man of the concern, naturally felt some doubt about his nephew and myself (who were young men) succeeding in this speculation.] told him I had paid about $9,000 in cash on my interest, and was owing about as much more, to be paid in six months. "Well, do you expect to pay it?" he asked, rather savagely. "I hope to do so," was my reply. Producing the well known liquor case, which he carried with him wherever he went, we had a glass or two together, and he asked for all the details of the venture in partnership with his nephew and himself. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I narrated the transactions in full, at which he seemed to feel reassured. He had been greatly concerned about our buying the vessel and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The next morning I met Howard, who was here with the "Vandalia," and for a day or so was a guest on board his vessel, until my own arrived, while I sold to rancheros round the bay until I had no goods remaining. Josiah Belden assisted me in this work as one of my clerks. The vessel then went over to Saucelito to get in a supply of water. While she was there, Spear, who had come down from Napa, Hinckley and myself, went over to spend a night on board. We had a good supper, and a jolly time-talking over old matters, smoking, singing and drinking champagne nearly the whole night. Captain Russom was an admirable singer, and he entertained us with songs, and the whole company also sang. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This was the 20th of May, 1846, a heavy southeast gale blowing, and during the evening the captain went on deck to order the second anchor dropped, for the greater security of the vessel. It rained hard all night. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The next day I visited Captain Richardson. The day after, Captain and Mrs. Richardson, Miss Richardson and Miss Estudillo came on board the brig by my invitation. Our steward and cook prepared a choice dinner, which the guests enjoyed. I invited the ladies to the salesroom and made them some presents. I remember having given Mrs. Richardson some white silk handkerchiefs and fancy goods, from the cargo. Meeting her a few years ago she said she still had the handkerchiefs. (1890). </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LV  " <HI REND="italics">See The American Flag Flying</HI>
025.sgm:<P>SHORTLY after, the "Euphemia" left Saucelito, bound south, and we took on board at a southern coast port an additional cargo of merchandise. About the last day of May we arrived at San Pedro, and sold there twenty-five thousand dollars' worth of goods. Thence we sailed to Santa Barbara, where additional sales were made, to the extent of eight or ten thousand dollars; thence to Monterey, arriving in July, 1846. On rounding Point Pinos we were surprised to see the United States vessels of war at anchor, and the Stars and Stripes floating from the staff over the town. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the voyage up, Captain Russom, myself and the two mates, Lee and Colbath, and also the clerk, R. M. Sherman, who were New England men, had many little discussions about the probability of Monterey being taken by the English. Owing to the rumors of war between the United States and Mexico, we were expecting it. The captain being an Englishman, we Americans teased him, and boasted that our country would certainly be the foremost. He descanted upon the pluck and enterprise of his countrymen, and declared that they would certainly plant their flag in Monterey before the Americans had a chance. As we rounded the Point and saw our flag floating serenely over the town, we called out exultantly, "There it is, Captain Russom! See the American flag flying!" He was discomfited, but made the best of it, frankly saying that his countrymen were beaten. The "Euphemia" was the first vessel to enter Monterey after the American acquisition. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Going ashore, on ascending the steps of the wharf, I was met by U. S. Consul Larkin, who introduced me to Commodore Sloat, standing by his side. The commodore extended his hand, and said: "I am glad to make your acquaintance, my dear sir, and to welcome you to <HI REND="italics">American soil</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In the course of his conversation he said, "Thank God I we have got ahead of Seymour." He said that he had determined to take the country at all hazards, and he had done it. The commodore was an agile, nervous <illus entity="a025-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[TEXT OF GENERAL ORDER ON OPPOSITE PAGE]</P>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-041b" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COMMODORE JOHN D. SLOAT'S GENERAL ORDER OF JULY 7, 1846 <HI REND="italics">The fine American spirit of this document displays Sloat's character better thana chapter long portrait.</HI>
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025.sgm:<P>My vessel happened to have a variety of stores of which the vessels of the squadron were in need, and these wants I supplied, visiting the purser of the flagship frequently in the transactions. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There I made the acquaintance of Post-Captain Mervine, and saw him every day, the week I remained there; sometimes visiting him in his cabin, by his invitation. He was portly, well proportioned, quick and energetic in his manner, and impressed me as a man of resolution and decision of character. He gave me a little account of matters prior to the fleet's arrival. He said the "Savannah" and "Cyane" were at Mazatlan, oscillating between that port and San Blas, waiting for the news of the declaration of war, and the English ship "Collingwood," Admiral Seymour, was there at the same time. Captain Mervine said they were watching Seymour and he was watching them. If the "Savannah" ran from Mazatlan to San Blas, the "Collingwood" followed her; or, if the "Collingwood" ran from one place to another, the "Savannah" was after her. Commodore Sloat, while on shore, having received, unofficially, private information that war had been declared between the United States and Mexico, slipped away one night with his vessels and sailed for Monterey, making all speed possible, not knowing but they should find the "Collingwood" there before them. Arriving first, however, on July 2nd, Commodore Sloat hesitated as to what he should do. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the night of the 6th of July, a council of war was called, at which were present the Commodore, Captain Mervine, Captain Dupont of the "Cyane," and other officers of the squadron, to discuss the matter, and to settle upon a line of action. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Mervine declared to me that Sloat still seemed irresolute. At the council, the captain said: "You hesitate, Commodore Sloat, but delay is dangerous; the 'Collingwood' is right at our heels. You know when we approached this port we thought we might find her here before us and the English flag raised on shore, in which case we should have had to fight. It is more than your commission is worth to hesitate in this matter. Although you have no direct official information of the declaration of war between the two countries, the unofficial news is to the effect that war had been declared. If we don't hoist the American flag, the English will take possession of this capital; so there is no time to be lost. It is our duty to ourselves and to the country to run up the flag at once." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Mervine remarked further, that he talked so emphatically at the council of war that his suggestions prevailed. The next morning the United States flag floated over the town. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>Mervine was outspoken and frank, unquestionably a better qualified officer than Sloat. He was impatient at the commodore's slowness and vacillation. It was owing to the captain's decision and right comprehension of the situation, in my opinion, that the flag was raised. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eight days thereafter, the "Collingwood" came into the bay. My vessel then lay at Santa Cruz, and we heard the salutes. James Alexander Forbes, British vice-consul at the time, was in Monterey shortly after the "Collingwood" arrived. He learned from the officers of the ship, as he informed me, that, as they rounded the Point, and the United States men-of-war were discovered, and the American Bag came in sight, floating over the town, the British admiral stamped his foot in rage, and flung his hat upon the deck. His chagrin at the advantage which the Americans had gained over him in this matter caused these demonstrations. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The American flag was flying in Yerba Buena when I reached there overland from Santa Cruz. The United States ship "Portsmouth," Captain Montgomery, was in port. I made the acquaintance of the captain, and breakfasted with him one morning, by his invitation, aboard the ship. He said, among other discussions regarding the situation, that he felt some anxiety about the relations of our government with England, in connection with the Oregon Question, or the boundary line dispute between the United States and British Columbia; he thought that any time we might learn that war had been declared between the two countries; that the vessel was ready for action, although he was short of his full fighting complement, as his marines were ashore, on guard, under Captain Watson, yet he believed he could do good execution with his vessel should an enemy be encountered. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While we were talking, it was reported to the captain that a strange vessel was in sight, coming up the bay; whereupon he ran out on deck to sight her, and gave orders to have the men immediately beat to quarters. This was done--a pretty sight which interested me very much. Every man stood at his post ready for action. It might have been an English war vessel approaching, and the captain though it best to be prepared for hostilities. Soon discovered it to be a merchant vessel, we returned to the cabin. Washington A. Bartlett, third-lieutenant on the "Portsmouth," afterward alcalde at Yerba Buena, told me this was an usual occurrence on board-beating the men to quarters and getting ready as a vessel came in sight. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When my brig arrived, I took possession of Spear's vacant premises, and transferred the remainder of the cargo, opening a store for the sale of the goods. The vessel was then sent to Santa Cruz, to load with lumber for Honolulu. Leaving the store in charge of employees, I went by land to meet the vessel about the time the loading of cargo was completed, and there found that the captain, and Sherman, the clerk, were somewhat worried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>At this time I found Commodore Stockton had arrived there in the "Congress," had relieved Commodore Sloat, and taken command of the forces on the Pacific Coast, Post-Captain Mervine had taken out some of the guns of the frigate "Savannah" and mounted them on the fort overlooking the bay. His men were drilling there, and were practicing in firing at water targets--throwing bombs, to see at what distance they would explode--all with reference to the possibility of war with England. He invited me to the fort once or twice to witness the practice, which was very interesting. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The "Euphemia" was dispatched to Honolulu, with the cargo of lumber and some furs. Remittances were also sent by her in what were known as "Purser's Bills," which I took in exchange for supplies furnished the United States vessels, these bills being drawn by the pursers on the department in Washington, and countersigned by the commander. It was a convenient method of remittance, the bills being at a premium. I also sent $1,8000 in gold. Returned to Yerba Buena shortly after, when the United States flag-ship "Congress" came into the bay, with the commodore on board. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Commodore Stockton first arrived at Monterey with the "Congress," he sent for Captain Richardson to come from Saucelito to pilot the vessel. In August the "Congress" left Monterey for San Pedro. From there Stockton went to Los Angeles to confirm and more fully establish the possession of the country by the United States, to make himself known to the people, to begin friendly relations with them, as their commander-in-chief, to make the acquaintance of the wealthy rancheros and to endeavor to impress upon them that he was their friend. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The "Congress" soon returned to Monterey, and came from there to Yerba Buena, Captain Richardson, pilot; who, while on the vessel, gave the commodore valuable information about the country and the people. These two men became great friends. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Upon the arrival of the "Congress," several of the citizens of Yerba Buena called on Commodore Stockton aboard the vessel to pay their respects, among whom I remember were Spear, Captain Grimes, Howard and Leidesdorff--perhaps seven or eight in all, including myself. We were handsomely received by the commodore and were favorably struck with his appearance, which was that of a gentleman and thorough commander. He was fine-looking, of dark complexion; frank and off-hand in manners and conversation; active and energetic. There was nothing weak or effeminate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>We remained about half an hour, the commodore making us feel at home, inquiring individually of the pioneers about their first coming to the country, their experience here, etc., so that we were soon well acquainted with him. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A few days afterward, upon the first landing of the commodore, a celebration was held, which was a grand success. Extensive preparations had been made. Notice having been sent into the surrounding country, the people came to town in great numbers. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Colonel Wm. H. Russell made a speech, welcoming the commodore, as he landed from his barge, which came close to shore (the tide being high) at about where Clay street is now, between Montgomery and Sansome. Russell spoke in bombastic, spread-eagle style, saying, "I meet and welcome you on the shore"--giving much emphasis to the consonants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A procession was formed, which marched from the corner of Sacramento and Montgomery streets to Washington street, up Washington to Kearny, to Clay, to Dupont, along Dupont to Washington, thence down the hill to Montgomery again. These streets, with the exception of Kearny, had been named by Bartlett. Some blocks were enclosed by fences--the three bounded by Montgomery and Kearny streets, east and west, and by Jackson and Sacramento, north and south--these blocks being identical with those between these streets to-day; also a portion of the block between Sacramento and California streets, the southeast corner of that block being separately enclosed (a 50-vara lot by itself), parties owning in that block having built cross-fences. On reaching Montgomery street, those who had formed the procession gathered about a platform which had been erected near where Clay now intersects Montgomery street. The commodore was invited to make a speech, which he did in the most enthusiastic manner, and quite at length, and referred facetiously to Russell's eloquent speech of welcome to California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At that time the news had been received of the revolt of some of the Californians, and the re-capture by them of points which the Americans had taken possession of; and Stockton, in his address, referred to this, saying he was there to protect and defend the country, to fight her battles, if need be, and to establish and maintain her interests. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Guerrero, the Sanchez Brothers, Vasquez, and all the rancheros in the immediate vicinity, had each sent in a number of horses for the procession -the choicest from their <HI REND="italics">caponeras</HI>
025.sgm:, the largest and most handsome, numbering one hundred or more. After the speaking was over, an escort of horsemen rode with the commodore to the Presidio, which he desired to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>We rode very rapidly, Stockton himself being a fine horseman. On our return the horses were covered with foam. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The procession was the first that ever took place in California in a civil celebration. It attracted large numbers of women and children from all the neighborhood. It was a demonstration of welcome, not only by Americans proper, but by those of all nationalities who had made this new country their home; and (with some exceptions) by the Californians also, who, although their government was now to be superseded by that of strangers, nevertheless accepted the situation gracefully. On this occasion most of the Californians joined in the celebration, entering into it with spirit, and contributing to its success. For that early day, it was an imposing display and very creditable to the people. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The ovation was unexpected by Commodore Stockton, and much appreciated, since it showed the good feeling of the masses of the people toward the American government and for him as its representative, and that the Californians regarded him as a friend rather than an enemy. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When the news was received, shortly after the "Congress" arrived, that the Californians at Los Angeles, Santa Barbara and other points in the south had revolted, and replaced the Mexican flag, Stockton dispatched orders to Monterey for Captain Mervine to proceed with the "Savannah" to San Pedro, to protect American interests at Los Angeles. Mervine, on reaching San Pedro, landed his marines and most of his crew, with some artillery. Taking command, he moved towards Los Angeles. He had some animals with which to transport his guns. To prepare for anticipated conflicts with the Californians, it was the custom for the commanders and officers of the government vessels, while lying at the different ports, to drill the crews for army service. The officers themselves possessed more or less military knowledge, but they familiarized themselves still further with that branch of the service. In the various expeditions inland, a portion of the naval force on the coast was utilized as infantry men, and, occasionally, as cavalry men, according to circumstances. As Mervine proceeded, the Californians began to surround the little army and disturb it with threatened attacks. When the rancho of Manuel Dominguez was reached, about half way between the port and Los Angeles, a battle ensued, lasting several hours, in which Mervine displayed great daring in leading his men forward, but without avail; it resulted in the defeat of the Americans, who retreated to San Pedro, and boarded their vessel. Several of the sailors and marines were killed in the engagement. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LVI  <HI REND="italics">Fr&eacute;mont Sends For Davis</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE news of Mervine's defeat reaching Commodore Stockton, he sent orders to the captain to remain at San Pedro. In the meantime he actively organized a force to proceed south. The intelligence of this rebuff caused him to forward operations vigorously, his aim being to secure a sufficient force to make thorough work in overcoming the refractory Californians and establishing the American supremacy. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Small arms of all kinds were very scarce in the country, and Stockton was desirous of collecting all he could for his proposed expedition. One morning a midshipman from the "Congress" presented the commodore's compliments, and said the Commodore desired me to purchase for him a quantity of small arms, pistols, rifles, etc. I sent out several of my clerks to the little shops, bar-rooms, and all the places in Yerba Buena where it seemed probable any arms could be found, and collected a considerable number, many of which were obtained from the Mormons, who had recently arrived. The arms were turned over to Commodore Stockton, who paid for them, and also thanked me for the service. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About the latter part of October, 1846, the commodore sailed with the "Congress" for San Diego. The "Portsmouth," Captain Montgomery, was ordered to proceed there also, and left some time subsequent. These vessels, on reaching that point, were joined by the "Savannah," Captain Mervine, the "Cyane," Captain Dupont, and the sloop of war "Dale." The sloop of war "Warren," Captain Hull, remained at Yerba Buena. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Montgomery was highly regarded by the people, and became a great favorite with all classes, both American and foreign, and also with the Californians. He was about fifty years of age, with a pleasant, intelligent face; a man of considerable ability, officer-like in appearance, and in demeanor polite to all; kind and conciliatory in his intercourse with the people, winning their esteem and affection. He was much liked by his officers, who spoke of him as one of the best commanders in the service. During the six or seven months that he remained at Yerba Buena, he never had <illus entity="a025-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">The value of Fr&eacute;mont's actions in California in 1846 are still matters of controversy</HI>
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025.sgm:<P>Two sons of Captain Montgomery came out in the "Portsmouth" with him, aged respectively twenty-one and seventeen years. Toward the latter part of November, 1846, these two young men were sent by their father, in one of the "Portsmouth's" boats, accompanied by a crew of eight sailors and a boatswain, with a considerable amount of money to pay the troops--to Sutter's Fort, on the Sacramento. They were never heard of after their departure, and no trace of them or of the boat was ever found, nor any clue as to their fate. It is presumed that the boat capsized off Angel Island, in crossing the bay, and it and the occupants were swept out to sea. The winter commenced early that year; heavy southeast winds and rains prevailed, and it was stormy when the boat left. A thorough search was made and the whole country notified of the loss, but with no result. The sad disaster was a great blow to Captain Montgomery, and weighed very heavily upon him. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Captain Montgomery and the people of Yerba Buena became aware that the boat had failed to reach Sacramento, they at once concluded that some disaster must have happened. The first impression on the captain's mind and that of others, was that the two young men might have been murdered by the sailors in the boat for the sake of the money; who had then seized it and swamped the boat, and gone into the interior. That idea prevailed for some time, but after wide information had been given of the disappearance, and every effort made to get some intelligence, as none of the sailors were ever seen by any one on shore, and they could not have stayed in the country nor have gone out of it without the fact being known, this belief gave way to the more plausible supposition that the boat was swamped and carried out to sea. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About the middle of November my brig arrived at Yerba Buena from Honolulu with a splendid cargo, consisting largely of liquors, and a good assortment of miscellaneous goods well adapted to the market. It was one of the first cargoes, perhaps the very first, that paid duties in San Francisco, under the American government. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When the vessel left for Honolulu in August, I ordered her to come back to Yerba Buena, being convinced, as the country had passed into our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The liquor was mostly New England rum, exported from Boston to the Islands. Having plenty of cash on hand, I at once paid the duties on the goods, which were thirty per cent on all articles of the invoice cost, amounting to $5000 or $6000. The law required the duties to be paid as soon as goods were entered. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain William A. Richardson, of Saucelito, was appointed the first Collector of the Port by Commodore Stockton, in recognition of his services as pilot while on the "Congress." </P>
025.sgm:<P>In addition to other useful information given to the commodore by Richardson, after the revolt of the Californians had become known, he also explained to Stockton that the disturbance did not commence with the wealthier and better class of rancheros, but with officials and ex-officials who were desirous of remaining in power, and that they had stirred up the floating or irresponsible class, who had little or nothing to lose, in opposition to the new government. </P>
025.sgm:<P>My New England rum cost in Honolulu $1.00 per gallon; the duty of thirty cents made it $1.30. Liquors at that time had become very scarce, and on the arrival of the vessel a great demand began for it. I sold it speedily at from $3.00 to $4.00 per gallon; could hardly land it fast enough to supply the want. Going a short distance from my store, I would be hailed by one person or another, "Got any more of that New England rum? I want a cask of it." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Before returning to my store, I would have seven or eight orders in my head to put down in the order-book. The whole invoice was disposed of at a splendid profit, most of it having been delivered from the vessel. </P>
025.sgm:<P>From the first trip of the "Euphemia," business had been very prosperous. The last success in my transactions bought me up in wealth, influence and commercial importance, to a level with  Mellus &amp; Howard, whose establishment to that time had been considered the leading One. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Soon after the brig's arrival, I commenced preparing her for a trip south, to be near the seat of war. Landing some of the goods she recently brought from Honolulu, I put on board goods from the store, arranging the cargo especially to supply the wants of the army and navy, and not with reference to selling to rancheros. I had tea, coffee, sugar, clothing, boots and shoes, assorted liquors, foreign wines of the best quality, ale and porter, flour and other articles, which I knew would be in demand by the squadron and the military forces. We left the beginning of December, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Larkin, sometime before, had been captured by the Californians at Salinas, while journeying from Monterey to Yerba Buena. Having dealt with them largely, and always having treated them kindly, he naturally thought that the Californians would not molest him, but that he would be allowed to pass through the lines. He was mistaken. They thought it important to seize the former United States official. He was well treated, although there was one Californian, Joaquin de la Torre, who was inclined to be ugly, and showed a disposition to harm Larkin. Whereupon, Don Manuel Castro put an immediate stop to any such proceedings. Castro ordered a guard of ten men placed over Larkin for his protection. This man de la Torre was considered, among his countrymen, as a person of low instinct. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mrs. Larkin was much troubled about her husband's imprisonment, and despondent on the trip to Monterey, which occupied a day and a night. I did my best to cheer her, saying, that her husband, having been acquainted with the Californians for so many years, was entirely safe. Nevertheless, She continued dispirited, and evidently felt anxious. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About this time, Bartlett, then alcalde, went into the country for some cattle, and while attending to the business, he also was arrested and made prisoner by the Californians. Another occurrence took place. C. E. Pickett had uttered some remark offensive to Captain Hull, and on its coming to his ears, he had Pickett arrested, and ordered him to remain on my premises as a prisoner of war; saying to him, that if he went away from my store he would have him imprisoned on board the "Warren" in close quarters. Pickett was very indignant, but thought it prudent to comply. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At Monterey I delivered ten casks of the rum, and also sold largely of other goods, nearly all the sales being for cash. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We proceeded thence to Santa Barbara, where I sold to Noriega, as before stated, and also sold to others. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On our way there from Monterey, on Christmas Day, 1846,' we were off San Luis Obispo in a tremendous gale of wind from the southeast, with a boisterous sea. My excellent cook and steward, who still remained with me, had prepared a choice dinner, but the sea prevented our sitting at table, and we were compelled to partake of the turkey and other viands in the bunks. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Money circulated freely at the points where the United States vessels of war visited, as disbursements were made at all these places, and the contents of the pursers' strong boxes became much diminished; those who had anything to sell reaping the advantage. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The fitting out of the battalion by Commodore Stockton, before he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>While I was at Captain Noriega's house in Santa Barbara, negotiating with him, there came to the house Major Snyder, Major Reading, and King, the commissary, all of whom I knew. They said, Colonel Fr&eacute;mont desired to see me at his camp, about a mile from town. I told them I would call on the colonel as soon as I had finished my business with Captain Noriega. They replied that the colonel wished me to go without delay. Whereupon, I complied (it being war time) somewhat against my will. I surmised the colonel wished to obtain supplies, and while I wanted to assist the government, and to do everything I could toward making the men under Fr&eacute;mont comfortable, at the same time I did not care to become his creditor. </P>
025.sgm:<P>My companions to the camp gave an account of the condition of the men composing the battalion, saying, that their necessities were very great, and that they were in next to a starving condition, being without flour, sugar, tea or coffee; beef supplies being all they could procure; and that many of them were without shoes or hats. On reaching headquarters, I noticed that many of the men were ragged and dilapidated. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This battalion had been collected by Stockton before he left Yerba Buena. He caused it to be widely known that a battalion would be formed, and called for volunteers, and sent officers into the country in every direction to obtain recruits; and about four hundred were collected at Yerba Buena, consisting mainly of Americans, with a few English, Irish, Scotch, German, and of other nationalities. Some of them were rather rough, but many among them were intelligent men-Bryant, afterward alcalde of San Francisco, also William H. Russell, a big man from Kentucky, who came to Yerba Buena in 1846 across the plains. He was good-natured, but self-esteem was a great weakness in his composition. Sometimes this vanity was carried to a ridiculous extent in the telling of yarns. His friends laughed at his assumption of superiority, and made jokes at his expense. Often when they were ridiculing him with fictitious praises of his attainments, and assumed a deference to his authority, he thought they were in earnest and that they were rendering tribute to his importance. He therefore never took offense at anything they said. I knew him very well; he was generally liked, and had no enemies. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The following anecdote in regard to him was frequently told: In coming to California overland, while camping at night, the owls were sometimes heard in the distance, calling out in their peculiar, deep tones, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Fr&eacute;mont was placed in command of the battalion by Stockton, and he marched with it southward. The start was made in the winter. The weather being very severe, many hardships were suffered by the troops on the march, and when they arrived at Santa Barbara a considerable number of them were in weak condition. The arms I had collected for Stockton were put into the hands of these men, a good many of whom I knew--probably one hundred to one hundred and fifty out of the four hundred. Some of them told me that while crossing the Santa Ynez mountains in the night, Fr&eacute;mont showed considerable nerve in leading his men, the road being very steep and a tremendous storm raging. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On reaching Fr&eacute;mont's tent I found him walking to and fro in front of It. After salutations, he said he had sent to see what I could do towards furnishing supplies for his troops, who were greatly in need, beef being about the only food in camp. I told him I would be happy to supply the battalion with flour, tea, coffee, sugar and clothing. He said that I could see the quartermaster and commissary and arrange with them about the quantities, etc.; that there was no money in the camp at that time, but that I would surely be paid; that they would doubtless capture Los Angeles within six weeks, and I could depend on getting my money then, and he pledged his word he would pay for the supplies within that time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Major Snyder was quartermaster and King was the commissary. After consulting with them as to what they wanted, and they had given me acknowledgments of indebtedness amounting to about $6000, the goods from the vessel were landed next day. Concluding my business at Santa Barbara, I proceeded to San Diego. </P>
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025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LVII  <HI REND="italics">Stockton, the Real Conqueror and the Conquest</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THERE was an understanding between Stockton and Fremont, as part of the former's plan, that Fr&eacute;mont should approach Los Angeles, halt at a point not far from there at a specified time, send word to Stockton at San Diego of that fact, when Stockton would advance from the south, and thus inclose the Californians between the two forces. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Stockton waited at San Diego for that intelligence from Fr&eacute;mont, which, however, did not arrive. Having become impatient at the long and mysterious delay, Stockton decided to move on Los Angeles without tarrying further for Fr&eacute;mont. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While waiting, Stockton had not been idle. On the arrival of the fleet at San Diego, he landed his sailors from the different vessels, and moved up to the presidio, or old town of San Diego. By invitation of Bandini, he took possession of a portion of his residence and made it the military headquarters. His sailors were encamped at that place, and the whole presidio was turned into a military camp. The commodore had also the band from the "Congress" quartered at the mansion. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The commodore was accustomed to have the band play during the dinner hour, and to invite the Bandini family and ladies of San Diego to dine with him and to listen to the excellent music, which invitations they were pleased to avail themselves of, and afterwards spoke of these occasions with enthusiasm. The ladies also praised the commodore and his officers, and evidently appreciated the courtesy and attention. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Bandini had in his dwelling a very large. hall, where he gave dancing parties during the commodore's stay in San Diego, in which he and his officers and the best families of the town participated, the band of the squadron furnishing the music. Bandini himself was a musician, and was noted as a dancer. He understood fully how to manage an entertainment of the kind, with his charming wife. These gatherings were highly enjoyed by all who were present. </P>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COMMODORE ROBERT F. STOCKTON  <HI REND="italics">William Heath Davis assigns the title of Conqueror of California to Stockton</HI>
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025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>He owned the Guadalupe rancho in Lower California, comprising eleven leagues of land, with 4,000 or 5,000 head of cattle, 2,000 horses, and numerous sheep. In Riverside county he owned the Jurupa rancho, with 4,000 or 5,000 head of cattle and 2,000 or 3,000 horses. He had another rancho a few leagues below the boundary line between the United States and Mexico, called Tecate. He was a well-educated man, representing the department of California in the city of Mexico for some time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Stockton's sailors were drilled in military tactics at the presidio of San Diego, and practiced in various army evolutions as soldiers--infantry, artillerymen and cavalry--in preparation for the coming campaign. The commodore wanted to do his work thoroughly, and make sure of conquering. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Californians had risen quite generally through that part of the country. Stockton's preparations were extensive, and his organization complete and effective. The necessity was urgent of at once bringing the whole department into subjection to the new order of affairs. Meanwhile Santiaguito Argello, Don Miguel de Pedrorena and Hensley were actively recruiting, and gathering horses, for Stockton's command. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While these preparations were going forward, news was received of General Kearny's arrival at or near Warner's rancho, in San Diego county, from New Mexico, to take the position of commander-in-chief of the United States forces in California. The information was brought by Captain Snook, who has been mentioned in connection with Commodore Jones' taking possession of Monterey, in 1842. He had given up sea voyaging and bought a rancho in San Diego county in the vicinity of San Pasqual. On getting this intelligence, Lieutenant Beale was sent out by the commodore to meet Kearny and guide him to San Diego.  On reaching San Pasqual, at which place Kearny had then arrived, Beale found that the general had from I 20 to 130 men with him, all suffering severely from cold and lack of food. The winter was an unusually severe one, snow and frost prevailing, which was very seldom known in that latitude, and the men had experienced many hardships on the way from New Mexico to this point. They had no horses, only mules. Lieutenant Beale informed General Kearny that he had been sent by the commodore as a guide, and that it would be advisable to avoid meeting Don Andres Pico and his force of cavalry, consisting of about 90 men, who were then in the vicinity of San Diego, having been dispatched from the main body of Californians near Los Angeles for the purpose of watching Stockton's movements and preparations, and communicating information of the same to headquarters. Commodore Stockton, knowing of Pico's presence in the neighborhood, and that he had a well-mounted force, in fine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Beale had observed the starved appearance of the men and their bad circumstances generally. He intimated to Kearny that as they were worn out with their recent march and had not found time to recruit, they were hardly in a fit condition to meet the Californians, who were numerous, as well as brave, and not to be despised as enemies. He also represented that the mules would be no match for the horses in a battle, even if in the best condition. Kearny declined to be influenced by the argument, being determined to have a fight. He was saved the necessity c.f moving to meet the Californians, however, for the latter having learned of Kearny's force at San Pasqual, shortly appeared there, and, led by Don Andres Pico, made an attack upon the 6th of December. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When the Californians observed the appearance of Kearny's men, and how they were mounted, they remarked to each other, " <HI REND="italics">Aqui vamos hacer matanza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In this conflict Beale was slightly wounded in the head. At his suggestion Kearny moved his force to the top of Escondido mountain, which lay in the direction of San Diego, marching in solid form, so as to be able the better to resist any attack that might be made, the mountain offering advantages for defence which could not be procured below. While there encamped they were surrounded and besieged by Pico and his troops who made another attack, but without success. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In the battle just described, Don Andres Pico, who was brave and honorable, displayed so much courage and coolness as to excite the admiration of the Americans. He never did an act beneath the dignity of an officer or contrary to the rules of war, and was humane and generous. If he saw one of the enemy wounded, he instantly called upon his men to spare the life of the wounded soldier. Kind and hospitable, Pico was held in great esteem by the Americans who knew him. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While Kearny was thus besieged, Lieutenant Beale volunteered to make his way through the enemy's lines and communicate to Stockton the intelligence of the general's position and circumstances. It was an act of great daring; but by traveling in the night only, and part of the time crawling on his hands and knees, to avoid discovery, he finally reached San Diego, nearly dead from exhaustion, his hands and limbs badly scored. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When he came into San Diego he was little more than a skeleton; his friends hardly knew him. He gave an account of what had transpired and of the condition of Kearny's force. As soon as his mind was relieved of the message he became utterly prostrated from the sufferings he had undergone, and shortly after was delirious. It was some time before he recovered. Stockton and the other officers of the squadron showed him every attention. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A force of two hundred men, with some light artillery, was immediately sent to rescue Kearny's troops and escort them to San Diego, also conveyances for the wounded, with full supplies of provisions. The Californians moved back as this force approached, not venturing further demonstrations. The troops, with the wounded, were brought to San Diego. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Stockton continued his preparations on an extensive scale for the conflict. He delayed a further movement in order to allow the recovery of the wounded men. Kearny demanded of Stockton the position of commander-in-chief of the territory, by virtue of an appointment to that place by the President. The navy officer declined to yield the command, claiming that the men whom he had organized and drilled for the conflict belonged to the United States ships which he commanded; that he had spent his time and labor in making preparations; had transformed his sailors into soldiers; had exercised and trained them in military tactics; that he had gathered horses and men, had organized a force of cavalry, and had made all his arrangements to conquer the Californians and show them that the country was now a part of the United States. He claimed the honor of accomplishing this, and declined to be superseded by another. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There was more or less controversy about their respective ranks, which was not definitely settled. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, Stockton continued his preparations. Kearny having made his demand and Stockton having refused to comply, the former could do <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>During the march, and afterward, the natives in Stockton's army were mounted as cavalrymen, and were assigned to picket duty, a very responsible service--which showed the confidence the commodore placed in them. They were specially adapted for this duty, being genuine horsemen, and knowing the country thoroughly. They were, moreover, faithful and trust-worthy. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Arriving at the river San Gabriel, the Californians were found in force on the opposite side, in an advantageous position. The river was swollen from previous heavy rains. On the eighth, the two armies commenced an artillery fight, in which Stockton exhibited great skill, coolness and bravery. During the engagement one of the artillerymen was killed by a shot from the enemy, while firing his gun. Stockton, who was near by, immediately took charge of the gun, and so accurate was his aim that he did marked execution in the enemy's ranks. In the navy the commodore was known as a practical artillerist, and afterward was the inventor of a powerful piece of ordnance. Under cover of the artillery fire, his force crossed the river, the movement being accomplished with considerable difficulty, and was followed by the artillery. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The fighting continued on that day and the next, the Californians making several charges upon the United States troops. The commodore had formed his army into a hollow square, which the enemy attacked on every side simultaneously; but they were unable to penetrate it, and were repulsed each time. The Californians were all mounted, there being no infantry in their army. They relied upon their horsemanship and their lances to break Stockton's lines; but he knew their mode of attack and was prepared for it. The line of troops in front kneeled down and received the charge of the cavalry at the point of the bayonet, those in the rear thus being enabled to fire over the heads of those in the front rank.  Twenty-five or thirty of the Californians were killed, and a great many wounded; while Stockton's loss did not exceed ten killed, with a few wounded. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Doubtless the actual number of the Californians killed will never be known, they having concealed their loss, not being willing to make a statement in regard thereto. Many more of the Californians would have been killed and wounded during their charges upon Stockton's force, but for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Forcing their horses forward, in approaching Stockton's line, every horseman in their ranks threw himself over to one side, bending far down, so that no part of his body, except one leg, appeared above the saddle. When the columns met, and the horseman was required to use the lance or do other effective service, he remained but a few seconds in the saddle; and in the retreat he threw himself over along the side of the horse, and rode rapidly in that position, guiding the steed skillfully at the same time. By these tactics, the cavalry of the enemy avoided presenting themselves as conspicuous marks for the riflemen. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Stockton had three or four hundred head of beef cattle which he had brought from San Diego, or had gathered along the route, for the use of his army. In forming the square to receive the attacks of the Californians, the cattle were placed within the lines, and also his baggage-wagons and supplies. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The enemy made desperate attempts to break through at the point where the cattle were stationed, but without success. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It might seem difficult to keep a large body of rodeo cattle within the military square during the progress of a battle. But the animals were placed in charge of the mounted Californians of Stockton's force. They were rancheros and were thoroughly familiar with the handling of stock; they made it their duty to see that the cattle were kept intact on this occasion. The creatures gradually became accustomed to the movements of the army and were held in place even during the discharge of cannon and small arms. Stockton's infantry and artillery repulsed the attacks, and he managed the animals so well that no part of his square was broken on any side. The Californians finding that our army was too powerful for them finally withdrew from the field. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LVIII  <HI REND="italics">Fr&eacute;mont Too Busy to Talk</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THE Californians retreated toward the San Fernando Mission, near which point they were confronted by Fr&eacute;mont's battalion, which had advanced that far on the way south; and they capitulated to him. This was the whole of Fr&eacute;mont's participation in the conflict.  Meanwhile Stockton marched his army into Los Angeles, to the tune of "The Star Spangled Banner." Fr&eacute;mont also soon arrived. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Californians finding themselves beaten, and seeing the number and determination of their opponents and their superiority in arms, in military organization and in generalship, quietly yielded, dispersed, and went about their business, refusing to contend further against the United States. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The city of Los Angeles, after our army entered and took possession, was orderly and not at all disturbed; the citizens moved to and fro, ill the usual way, as if her angelic sanctity was not in the least ruffled. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Stockton appointed Fr&eacute;mont governor of California. He, perhaps, was influenced to this course by Kearny's previous abrupt demand for the position of commander-in-chief. Fr&eacute;mont took the office, and Stockton returned to San Diego, with his army, including Kearny's force.  He embarked his men on the vessels and took command of the squadron again. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I arrived at San Diego about the time of the battle, with the "Euphemia," in company with the bark "Tasso." The two vessels left Santa Barbara at the same time, a heavy gale having then abated. A light easterly wind prevailed, which required us to beat down all the way.  We sailed so near to each other that we carried on a conversation from one vessel to the other. The "Tasso" lowered a boat, and Captain Libbey and super-cargo Teschemacher came aboard our vessel, staying for an hour or two and partaking of refreshments. On reaching San Diego we waited for war news. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, I sold to the different vessels of the squadron $3,000 to $4,000 worth of provisions, its own stores having been largely used for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The dragoons of Kearny's force who were wounded in the battle of San Pasqual, about twenty or thirty in number, when brought into San Diego had been distributed among the different families. Dr. R. F. Maxwell, then surgeon of the "Cyane," was in attendance on the men.  He took me and Teschemacher with him to visit them. They all had the utmost horror of Californians. The attack upon them had been sudden and vigorous, and they had been pursued by the Californians, relentlessly, and grievously wounded, the lances having been wielded with such skill and precision that many of the dragoons were killed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This was an entirely new experience to the American soldiers. As there had been no opportunity offered to face their enemy in a fair fight, a terrible impression had been made upon their minds of the warlike character of the native Californians. </P>
025.sgm:<P>One young man in particular, of about twenty, with an intelligent face, suddenly became delirious while we were visiting him, and called out in terror, thinking the Californians were upon him. The San Diego ladies were very kind to these men, visiting and nursing them, preparing little delicacies for them and doing all in their power to make them comfortable. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After the troops had returned to San Diego from the battle of San Gabriel, Kearny made inquiries for a young Californian of the opposing force who had distinguished himself in the battle of San Pasqual by his courage and valor. He had singled out General Kearny individually and sprung at him as chief of the enemy. When he had succeeded in wounding the general, and the latter had fallen, the young Californian desisted from the attack and spared his life. After some inquiry, Kearny succeeded in finding out who he was. Upon his solicitation the young man called on the general, who greeted him warmly, and praised him for his bravery and soldierly behavior. </P>
025.sgm:<P>As soon as we received news of Stockton's victory over the Californians, Teschemacher and myself started by land for Los Angeles, ordering our vessels to proceed to San Pedro. The first night out we slept at the rancho of Santa Margarita, in charge of Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Pico. He was called Teniente (Lieutenant) Pico, from his long service in the army. I had known him in 1841, '42, '43, in Sonoma, in General Vallejo's army. This rancho was owned by Governor Pico and Don Andres Pico, and was one of the most beautiful places in the country. Here I saw the first sugar-cane growing in California, around a mound near the house, in the center of which, at the top, was a natural spring of water. Some of the stalks were nearly as large as my arm. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>Arriving in the evening, we were received with great hospitality by Don Antonio and his family; had an excellent supper; and talked and smoked, and sipped California wine to a late hour, enjoying ourselves heartily. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The next morning I was up early, and, on going out, saw the sugarcane. I expressed my surprise to Don Antonio, who was already out on the porch, (with a black silk handkerchief tied over his head, the four ends meeting at the back of his neck.) On receiving permission to cut some of the sugar-cane, I feasted on its sweetness before breakfast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We got an early start, Don Antonio insisting that he should send back to San Diego the horses and vaqueros we had engaged there to take us to Los Angeles; furnishing us with true California hospitality six of his own horses and a vaquero to continue the journey, three of the horses to go ahead loose, to be used when those we started with had become tired. Not wishing to slight his generosity, we accepted them, and proceeded. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We stopped next at the rancho of Santa Ana, owned by the beautiful and fascinating widow of Don Toma's Yorba, who had extensive land possessions, and great numbers of cattle and horses. She managed her rancho with much ability. The lady was one of my best customers. In June, 1846, I sold her from $2,000 to $3,000 worth of goods, she having come to the vessel at San Pedro to buy them. Here we passed the night. She also insisted upon furnishing us with fresh horses to Los Angeles, having herself before we appeared in the morning dispatched ours and the vaquero back to Teniente Pico. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Returning the vaqueros and horses was frequently done when guests remained over night. She provided us with two horses and another vaquero. It had been raining for some days, and the Santa Ana river was high. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While we were making our preparations to start, Do&ntilde;a Vicenta, her fine hair streaming over her shoulders, a picture of womanly grace and beauty, gave orders to her <HI REND="italics">mayor-domo</HI>
025.sgm: to group four or five <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
025.sgm:<P>This proceeding, which I have frequently seen in other places, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The common custom in dealings between the merchants and the Californians, was for the purchaser not to take occasion to ask the price; the seller quietly naming it at once. There was a perfect understanding between the parties, and confidence was felt on both sides that no advantage would be taken; the price stated was at once accepted as the correct one. Mrs. Yorba was the aunt of Mrs. Gafia, wife of the American consul at Tepic, Mexico, before mentioned. She lived afterwards at Anaheim, where her married daughters also resided. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After crossing the Santa Ana, the next important stream was the San Gabriel, which we reached toward the end of the day, having made rather slow progress in the muddy roads. We found the river very swift, and, halting at the brink, looked inquiringly towards each other. Addressing 'the vaquero by name, I said: " <HI REND="italics">Que se parece &aacute; usted? El rio est&aacute; bravo</HI>
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025.sgm:<P>The captains, supercargoes and merchants in the early days of California were nearly all good drinkers. They partook freely of California wine and aguardiente, which, from its excellence and purity, seemed to have no deleterious effect. I never knew of an instance of a drunkard among them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While we were proceeding from San Diego to Los Angeles, Stockton and his force passed in the opposite direction, by another road, going to San Diego. On the second day after reaching Los Angeles I called on Colonel Fr&eacute;mont who was then Governor of California. The first person I saw at headquarters was Colonel William H. Russell. He had been made Secretary of State by Fr&eacute;mont, and he gave me a little account of the movements of the battalion, the capitulation, etc. I told him I had called to see Colonel Fr&eacute;mont on business, and that I should like to make a settlement of my claim against him; that my vessel was at San Pedro, and I probably should not be at Los Angeles more than a week. He answered, in his flourishing style, that the colonel was extremely busy; that he had a great many callers and very important matters to attend to; and asked if it would make any difference if he did not present the matter to the colonel until the morrow. I told him that a day's delay would make no difference. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Russell worshiped Fr&eacute;mont as a great hero, carrying his admiration to a ridiculous extent, thinking Fr&eacute;mont appreciated him. I called the next day at headquarters, and was again put off by Russell, who told me that Colonel Fr&eacute;mont was engaged in writing dispatches to Washington, and could not by any means be disturbed. Seizing me by both hands, and shaking them warmly, he said, with a good deal of fervor, that he should consider it a personal favor if I would call the next day, when he would secure the attention of the governor to my business; upon which the interview ended. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I called every day during the week, and was each time unable to see Fr&eacute;mont, although Colonel Russell informed him I had called, the plea being that his great press of business would not admit of it. I became convinced that he was trifling and purposely avoided an interview. On the seventh day I sent to him by Colonel Russell the quartermaster's and commissary's receipts for the goods I had delivered, and requested their approval by Fr&eacute;mont. I was told to call in the afternoon, at which time I at last succeeded in getting the papers, containing Fr&eacute;mont's endorsement as Governor of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, during this week, I was busy in making sales at Los Angeles and collecting wine and aguardiente, of which I purchased considerable quantities, taking much of it in pay for goods previously delivered; also collecting hides, tallow and money. I made large sales. The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>I did not regret having furnished the supplies for the soldiers, knowing how much they were in need of them, nor the assistance I had rendered the government in so doing; thus indirectly aiding in conquering the country. Nor did I regret that I was not to receive my pay when I found it was not forthcoming, although it had been absolutely promised by Fr&eacute;mont; but I considered in view of Col. Fr&eacute;mont's relation to me as a creditor and of the great accommodation I had rendered to him at Santa Barbara, when his force was in distress, and of his promise to settle on reaching Los Angeles, that I was entitled to courteous treatment. If he was not prepared to redeem his promise, he could at least have said so in a fair, square, and manly way. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In January, 1848, my partnership with E. and H. Grimes was dissolved, and in settlement I turned these two papers over to them. Several years afterward I knew that the claim was still unpaid, though I think it eventually was settled. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore Stockton became U. S. Senator from New Jersey in 1851 and interested himself personally to see that the indebtedness which he had contracted, as agent of the government, for supplies on this coast received attention at Washington. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I may mention one instance: Don Santiaguito Argello, furnished large quantities of army supplies to Stockton from his extensive rancho eleven or twelve miles from San Diego--several hundred head of cattle and horses, and for which he had a claim against the government amounting to $14,000. The claim was sent to Washington by Major Lee, commissary-general for the Pacific coast. Stockton's attention being called to it, he exerted himself effectually in its settlement, and in a few months Argello received his money. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I regard Stockton as the real conqueror of California and as a man of very large mind, great judgment, and extraordinary foresight evinced in his whole career. His visit to Los Angeles shortly after coming to the coast and his friendly overtures to the Californians at that place, and afterward at Yerba Buena, showed his wisdom and discernment. When the news of the revolt of the Californians was received, he showed his good judgment in the preparations he made, first here in the north, and afterward in San Diego, looking months ahead for the conflict, and arranging to meet it systematically and thoroughly. Instead of hastily going forward with a small and unorganized and imperfectly drilled army, He took pains to instruct his officers and men for their new work; and at the same time, no doubt, improved and qualified himself in army tactics. The gathering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n58-11">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<P>In striking contrast to this mode of proceeding was Kearny's hasty and ill-judged action in fighting Pico's force, with half-starved and fatigued men mounted on mules, which was precipitated by Kearny, against the combined judgment of Stockton and Beale. </P>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n58-11">For a complete statement of an eye witness of the engagement at San Pasqual to which Davis here refers see "Notes of a military reconnoissance" William Helmesley Emory [30th Congress, 1st session, Ex. doc. No. 41] Washington 1848.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>We have another example of Stockton's foresight and good sense, in sending out a man to warn Kearny of there being in the vicinity a more powerful enemy (Pico), and to proceed to San Diego without meeting that foe. Had any less capable man than Stockton been commander-in-chief at that period on the Pacific coast, the insurrection of the Californians would have been a serious affair. The conflict might have been prolonged with further effusion of blood. </P>
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025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CITY OF LOS ANGELES, 1854 <HI REND="italics">the chapel facing the Plaza--"Nuestra Se&ntilde;ora la Regina de los Angeles"--is in use today as a parish church.  The low hills in the background are Boyle Heights, while the higher ground beyond is the Puentes, which rise to the northward of Whittier</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIX  <HI REND="italics">Fr&eacute;mont in the Role of Pardoner</HI>
025.sgm:<P>WHEN Fr&eacute;mont's battalion was passing down to Los Angeles from the north, near San Luis Obispo, Jesus "Totoi" Pico was arrested as a spy and charged with the design of conveying to the Californians information of Fr&eacute;mont's approach. Brought before Fr&eacute;mont and tried by court-martial, he was found guilty and condemned to be shot. The arrest took place near the man's own home at San Luis Obispo, and it was deemed improbable that he had designed acting as charged, especially in view of the fact that the Californians were well-posted as to Fr&eacute;mont's movements during the whole progress of the march. If the prisoner had been found any considerable distance from his home, between Yerba Buena and Los Angeles, the case would have looked more suspicious against him. He declared his innocence. As the time for the execution approached, Pico's wife and family were much alarmed. Mrs. Pico, accompanied by her children, appeared before Fr&eacute;mont to intercede for her husband. She knelt before him and pleaded eloquently for her husband. The commander relented, and gave Pico a pardon. They afterward became friends, and the latter went with Fr&eacute;mont on his march south. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In my visits to the camp at Santa Barbara, I saw "Totoi" Pico two or three times and conversed with him. He spoke of Fr&eacute;mont's great kindness to him, after he had been pardoned, and of the attentions that had been shown him. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In conversation with many of the prominent Californians, at various times, after their defeat in the battle of San Gabriel, they expressed themselves freely against the Mexicans, saying that they considered the Mexican government had appeared badly in the war between that country and the United States; that the fact that General Scott had been allowed to march from Vera Cruz to the City of Mexico, with hardly a show of resistance by the Mexicans, seemed to indicate there was a concerted plan between Santa Ana and the United States government to permit the success of the latter's army in Mexico. They seemed to think also that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>On leaving San Pedro, I sailed for Santa Barbara, with Louis McLane and Josiah Belden on board as passengers; also Jos&eacute; Ramon Estudillo, who had been impressed into the service by the Californians in Contra Costa (San Leandro) and taken south by them. He was in the fight of San Gabriel. McLane was a passed midshipman in the navy aboard one of the United States vessels, and held a position on shore as captain, (with other officers) for the protection of the flag, and had accompanied Fr&eacute;mont's battalion. McLane was permitted to return and take his old position at Monterey. He came on my vessel for this purpose. We touched at Santa Barbara, and were four days beating up from there to Point Concepcion, against a strong head-wind. Seeing that we had before us a tedious voyage, the captain, at my request, anchored under the lee of the Point, and Belden, McLane and myself left our vessel and went ashore, determined to come up to Monterey by land. At the Cojo rancho, Don Anastasio Carrillo's <HI REND="italics">mayor-domo</HI>
025.sgm: brought us a <HI REND="italics">caponera</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Belden, McLane and myself each bought two horses from Dana to continue our journey. Den and Teschemacher had brought their horses from Santa Barbara, with a vaquero, and a tent on a pack animal. We joined in one party, all sleeping in the tent, camping out and cooking our own food. We spent several days on the journey. The weather was delightful, cool and clear, the country fresh and beautiful, with grass and wild flowers growing luxuriantly all the way from the Cojo to Monterey; and we enjoyed ourselves exceedingly. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On reaching Monterey, the "Tasso" and the "Euphemia" were already there, they having got a favorable slant of wind after leaving Point Concepcion. I continued my trip by land to Yerba Buena, ordering my vessel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>I also had aboard a large quantity of California wine and aguardiente, which were just as good as gold, and better, because there was a sure sale for both at a profit. Some of the original cargo also remained. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I was greeted by Captain Grimes, who reported that my mother was very ill at Honolulu. I therefore made preparations to go hence. On giving Captain Grimes an account of my business trip down south and the result, he was greatly pleased. His face broke out in a smile all over, and he said: "William, you have done wonders." </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the 31st of March, sailed for Honolulu, on the "Euphemia" with Pickett aboard, he having requested me to take him down to visit the Islands. I had about $30,000, including what Sherman had collected during my absence south, a portion of which was in Mexican dollars, twenty bags of $ 1,000 each. We left in a south-east storm, but after a day or two it abated, and with gentle trade winds the ocean was as smooth as glass. A whitehall boat could have made the passage. On arriving at Honolulu after a voyage of twenty days, I was met by the pilot in the outer harbor, Stephen Reynolds, a Boston merchant at Honolulu, who had been previously United States vice-consul there. He had lived at Honolulu many years, and had become wealthy, importing goods from Boston; and yet he acted as pilot. The pilotage was very lucrative. He immediately gave the sailors their orders, and we were shortly anchored in the harbor. I was met on the wharf by Alexander G. Abell. He was then United States consul at Honolulu, and was of the firm of Abell, McClure &amp; Cheevers, engaged in the trade between the Islands and California. The two latter had taken a large cargo in the brig "Francisca" to the Pacific Coast, leaving Mr. Abell to manage the business at Honolulu. He asked if I had any remittance for him, and when informed I had not, he seemed disappointed; he could not imagine what his partners were doing in California, not to have disposed of the goods, or a part of them, and remitted the proceeds. I knew that they had mismanaged the business and were too fond of drinking, and enjoying themselves, to make a success of it. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Reynolds, who was a special friend of my mother, accompanied me to her house, and on the way asked me what amount I had brought for Grimes; on my replying, about $30,000, he stared in amazement and could hardly believe it. He said he was overjoyed, for the house had got into trouble financially; this amount would save them from a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The presence of so large a fleet of vessels on the coast, as well as the increasing immigration to California, had stimulated business, and money was plentiful at Honolulu. The Sandwich Islands, then being our nearest neighbors, were greatly benefited. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I found my mother very ill. Her death occurred four days after my arrival. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I reached Honolulu on Sunday. While I was at my mother's house, with Reynolds, I was sent for by Hiram Grimes from his residence, the stores and other business places being all closed on that day. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Honolulu seemed very much like a thriving New England town, both in the business and residence portions. A person could easily imagine himself in one of the suburbs of Boston, in passing through its streets. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I spent most of my time with my mother until her death. After the funeral, I commenced loading my vessel for the return voyage. </P>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LX  <HI REND="italics">Mrs. Paty's Wine Cash Empties Mysteriously</HI>
025.sgm:<P>SHORTLY after the Missions were first instituted in California, the rancheros, in a small way, commenced to establish their ranchos, getting grants from the government beyond the Mission lands, and obtaining a few cattle from the Fathers. Many of them were ignorant, uncultivated, and quite unused to the luxuries of life. A man of this kind one day visited the Mission of San Luis Obispo, and was kindly received by the good Father. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During the visit a servant was directed to bring in some refreshments. A lunch was served, and, among other things, a steaming pot of tea. A cup was set before the ranchero, and he was invited to help himself. Never having drank any tea, he was puzzled how to proceed, but presently lifting off the lid of the teapot, he dipped the spoon in, and, taking out some of the leaves, placed them in his cup, added sugar, and began to eat the new dish; whereupon the good Father kindly and politely explained that the tea was to be drank, and not to be eaten. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1842, the "Don Quixote" arrived at Honolulu, and found there the beautiful clipper-built ship "Congress," from New York. The vessel was engaged in the China trade, plying regularly between New York and China. On that trip she had brought supplies for the missionaries, of whom there were a good many at the Sandwich Islands and at other islands in the Pacific ocean. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Missions in New York and Boston, in those days, sent out large quantities of supplies, including books and papers, from their headquarters, to Honolulu, that being a distributing point. I have known vessels to come there with goods for the missionaries exclusively. The "Congress," after discharging, waited at Honolulu some time before sailing for China, partly by reason of the typhoons which prevailed in the China seas at that season of the year, and which her captain wished to avoid; and partly to receive expected advices from the owners in New York, by the way of Mexico. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>The speediest mode of communication between the United States and the Pacific islands was by vessel from New York, or other Atlantic ports, to Vera Cruz; thence across, by mule conveyance to Mazatlan or San Blas; letters being addressed to the care of the United States Consuls at those seaports. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vessels were constantly going and coming between the Mexican coast and Honolulu, being owned in the latter place and employed in the China trade. They brought cargoes of goods to the Islands; disposed of a portion of them there, and went thence to San Blas or Mazatlan with the remainder. The cargoes were purchased with special reference to the Mexican trade of the interior, whither they were sent from the coast. The consuls forwarded by these Vessels such letters and dispatches as they had received from the Atlantic side, and frequent communication was thus had. In 1834 or 1835 the brig "Griffin," Captain William C. Little, originally a Boston vessel, was engaged in trade between China, Honolulu and the coast of Mexico. She was on a voyage from Honolulu to Mazatlan, with a partial cargo of China goods, but did not reach Mexico. She was never heard of more. All the hides shipped from California to the Islands were reshipped to Boston. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The captain of the ship "Congress," having heard of the feats of the "Don Quixote" as a fast sailer, was anxious to have a trial of speed, as he prided himself upon the sailing qualities of his own vessel. Therefore, when he was ready for sea, he waited a few days for the bark to discharge and take return cargo of miscellaneous goods for California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The two vessels came out of the harbor of Honolulu together. Great interest was manifested in this race. When we left the town the houses and every little elevation were covered with people, who had gathered to witness the contest. The "Don Quixote" being well known, and having a history as a fast vessel, was the favorite. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Our bark passed out first, and after we had got fairly clear of the harbor, we lay to, to allow the pilot to go ashore. He and his crew exchanged parting salutations with us, standing up in the boat, taking off their hats and cheering. Just then the "Congress" came up with us. We loosened and spread out our studding sails, and the "Congress" did the same, until both vessels had all their canvas to the breeze, sailing gaily away. Looking back we saw the crowds on shore, waving us farewell, until they were lost to view in the distance. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The two vessels kept pretty near for some time, but the "Don Quixote" gained, little by little, upon her rival, until, when twenty or thirty miles out to sea, she was fairly ahead. As night came on, the vessels parted, each on its own course, </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Paty kept everything about the bark in the neatest condition. It may be said in general that the captains who came to the California coast in those days were gentlemanly, intelligent and well-read. Each took pride and delight in his own vessel, thinking her the finest that sailed the ocean, and was always ready, when opportunity offered, for a trial of speed. The "Euphemia" was an exception; we never boasted of her sailing qualities. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1842 the "Alert" and the "Don Quixote" happened to be in Monterey, and were ready to leave at the same time. When this was noticed, much interest was manifested in the circumstance. They had to make many tacks to get out of the bay, and Captain Phelps of the "Alert," did his best to crowd the bark, but the former was really no match for the latter, which easily took the lead. During this trial, Captain Paty ordered the chain cable moved from the bow to midships, and the sailors shifted it with great alacrity, entering into the spirit of the occasion as sailors always do when their own vessel is put to a test. I have witnessed several ocean races; the great enthusiasm of the crews at such times was noticeable, the sailors being proud of their vessel, which was their home. They were as much attached to it as landsmen to their domiciles and surroundings. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the summer of 1844, the "Admittance" and "Don Quixote" were both trading on the coast, and were at Santa Barbara together. They were ready to leave on the same day, both bound to Monterey. The captains and supercargoes of the vessels, and their friends, arranged that there should be a trial of speed between them. The "Admittance" was a good sailer and a beautiful ship. Captain Peterson, her master, being a first-class navigator, the vessels were evenly matched. They were obliged to beat all the way up against the prevailing head-winds. The "Don Quixote" anchored at Monterey twenty-four hours in advance of the other. Captain Paty as a bold navigator, with good judgment had no superior. He took chances which a more cautious captain would not have dared to take. His plan was to sleep in the daytime, allowing his mates to sail the vessel when everything was clear, and at night to take charge himself. </P>
025.sgm:<P>As he understood the coast thoroughly, he kept inshore as much as possible after sunset, to get the advantage of the land breeze, which prevailed nearly all night, but extended only a few miles from shore. He took short tacks to get the breeze, while Captain Peterson kept much further out to sea, and lost the advantage. Before the vessels left Santa Barbara, there were numerous bets made by the officers and their friends on shore, as to the result of the trial, mostly of wines, cigars and small articles, no money being wagered. </P>
025.sgm:<P>All the early vessels that came out from Boston to trade on the coast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In 1842, Mrs. Paty was presented by Don Luis Vignes with a cask of California wine, while the captain's bark was at San Pedro, and she had it put on board for the benefit of the sea travel, until such time as the vessel should reach Honolulu, when the intention was to have it bottled. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Paty and his officers were accustomed to a little wine at dinner; and after tasting the Vignes wine, they found it so agreeable that they could not resist drinking of it while on the voyage. The good lady, who was aboard, never suspected it was her wine that was disappearing day by day, she herself being a participant in the abstraction. Captain Paty and I presented Commodore Jones, at Monterey, with some of this identical wine, as being superior to anything else that could be procured for the purpose. The vessel reaching Honolulu, Mrs. Paty inquired for the cask and was much chagrined to find that the contents had wholly disappeared. </P>
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025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[TEXT OF LETTER ON OPPOSITE PAGE]</P>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CAPTAIN MONTGOMERY'S "SEE HIM PLEASANT" REQUEST  <HI REND="italics">Written the day before American occupation of Yerba Buena, this letter, with its humorous slip of the pen, has extraordinary interest for San Franciscans</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXI  <HI REND="italics">Yerba Buena's First American Alcalde Lieut. Bartlett, U. S. N</HI>
025.sgm:<P>SOON after the United States flag was hoisted on shore at the port of San Francisco, July, 9th, 1846, Captain Montgomery selected Lieutenant Bartlett, of the "Portsmouth" to act as first-alcalde of Yerba Buena. He was capable, speaking the Spanish language, which was a great advantage. George Hyde was appointed at the same time as second-alcalde, he having arrived here as secretary to Commodore Stockton, in the frigate "Congress." He had joined that vessel for the purpose of coming to California. Mr. Hyde was a Pennsylvanian, of wealthy family and of the highest respectability. Commodore Biddle was from the same State, and their families were intimate. When the commodore visited Yerba Buena in 1847, he remembered Hyde at once, and they were on very friendly terms. George Hyde retained the office of second-alcalde Only two days, and then resigned. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Bartlett was made prisoner by the Californians, Hyde was appointed in his place by Captain Hull, in December, 1846; and held that position until Bartlett's release and return, when the latter again resumed the alcaldeship. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There was an election for alcalde in October, 1846, in which Bartlett, who still held the office, was a candidate, with Bob Ridley the opposing aspirant. The latter was badly beaten by Bartlett who was elected by a handsome majority. The popular voice of the people was then expressed for the first time, under the American system, since the change of flag in the department. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Prior to 1841, Jacob P. Leese obtained a grant of two leagues of land, from the government of California, known as Ca&ntilde;ada Guadalupe, y Visitacion, y Rodeo Viejo, bounded as follows: On the east by the bay of San Francisco, on the south the San Bruno Mountains or Buri-buri rancho, on the west by the rancho of San Miguel, owned by Don Jos&eacute; Jesus No&eacute;, and on the north by the rancho of Do&ntilde;a Carmel Cibrian. In 1841 Robert Ridley was granted by Governor Alvarado, four or six <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In 1847, when George Hyde was alcalde of San Francisco much jealousy existed and there were many bickerings between rival land owners, which caused an idle charge, that was subsequently proved entirely unfounded, to be made against Mr. Hyde, of having, in his official capacity, tampered with the map and survey of the city. The alcalde demanded an investigation, and by order of Colonel Mason, then acting as military governor of the department, the town council was directed to take evidence and report on the subject. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The commission met on the I st or 2d of November, 1847, and organized by appointing R. A. Parker, chairman. On motion of E. P. Jones, Mr. Harrison, a clerk in the custom-house and commissary's office, was appointed to take down the evidence. The first and only witness called was one Grayson, also a clerk in the commissary department. He was sworn, and testified that he knew who had made the defacement on the map, and that it was the alcalde, Mr. Hyde. On cross-examination, he stated that he did not see the alcalde do it, but presumed that he must have done it, because the map belonged to the alcalde's office. This was all the testimony taken on the charge. The clerk was directed to make and keep a fair copy, or report, of the proceedings. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the following evening the commission met again, when the committee preferring the charge admitted that it had no further evidence. Mr. Hyde then demanded that the evidence, as taken, be read over before closing the proceedings. The clerk objected to this as unnecessary. He was required to do so, however, when it was discovered that he omitted the entire cross-examination. When asked his reason for the omission, he alleged that he did not think it was of any consequence. Significantly requested to <HI REND="italics">step down and out</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The hearing occupied three evenings, when it became apparent who the interested parties were and what the motive was for making a change in the lots and survey--that it was work which originated in Mr. Alcalde <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The committee making the charge failed to again appear. It could not be prevailed on to meet and it did not meet the commission until the 4th day of December, a month afterwards. At that date it met to accommodate Mr. Sam. Brannan, who was the author of a second and different charge, to wit: that the alcalde had granted a lot to other persons, which had been promised by his predecessor, Bryant, to Mr. Brannan's mother-in-law. Alcalde Hyde denied any knowledge of such promise. He asserted that this was the first he had heard of it, and, if true, the act of conferring the grant by him was unintentional. Mr. Hyde's clerk, who had also been clerk under Mr. Bryant, testified that he had recorded the grant referred to and had brought to Alcalde Hyde for his signature both the grant and record, which were signed. He had not informed Mr. Hyde of the fact of Alcalde Bryant's promise, because he had forgotten it. He could not say whether Alcalde Hyde knew of it or not. Mr. Brannan was satisfied; and declared that Alcalde Hyde had been entirely vindicated. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The last proceedings occupied but one evening, and the commission adjourned. The committee that had preferred the first charges never appeared again, notwithstanding frequent calls and solicitations of Mr. Hyde and of the board of commissioners. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Affairs ran along from December 4th to the first day of March, 1848, when a horse race occurred. Under the excitement of the occasion, some of the citizens, deeply interested by heavy betting on the result, fell into personal altercation which terminated in two of them, Leidesdorff and McDougal, being bound over by Alcalde Hyde to keep the peace. There from grew subsequent proceedings, embracing the application to Governor Mason for the removal of Mr. Hyde from office, It was a secretly concocted affair, not heard of until the reply of the Governor reached San Francisco, a couple of weeks later. Leidesdorff swore vengeance against Hyde, and took that method of effecting it. He and E. P. Jones, an unscrupulous person, secretly addressed a letter to Governor Mason, wording it in a deceptive manner, which influenced Mr. W. D. M. Howard and Mr. Robert A. Parker to sign it. The latter were under the impression that it merely asked for the removal of Alcalde Hyde, on account of the alleged arbitrary act of placing Mr. Leidesdorff under arrest. Mr. Hyde, considering himself injured by these secret assaults, sent in his resignation, to take effect April I st, and at the same time apprised the governor of the facts relative to the horse race altercation and the meeting of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The governor asked the four gentlemen who had signed the communication for a report of the evidence before the commissioners as to the charges, taken in accordance with his previous directions. Messrs. Howard and Parker, finding themselves seriously entrapped, declined to associate further with Jones and Leidesdorff. The two last named gentlemen, concluding it would be better for them also to withdraw from their compromising position, asked the governor to consider their letter as private correspondence, instead of relating to official matters. Thus, so far as the council was concerned, the entire affair had an insignificant ending. C. L. Ross, a member of the self-appointed citizens' committee represented a ring composed of several persons who coached the entire proceedings under the charges. As matters developed, it was soon known that malice was at the bottom of the whole business. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Hyde, at the time he sought to influence the governor to postpone the sale of the beach and water lots, also pointed out to him the necessity of reconstructing of the ayuntamiento, or Town Council, to which the district of San Francisco was entitled. In view of the sale leaving a large balance of funds on hand, ample security ought to be provided for its safety; and the employment of these moneys for various improvements ought not to be left to the disposal of the alcalde alone. A safe and commodious jail was a necessity urgently demanded, also the erection of a school house. Various other suggestions were offered by Mr. Hyde. He secured the appointment of T. M. Leavenworth as second-alcalde, and obtained a promise that a Court of First Instance should be provided for the district as soon as practicable. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bartlett continued in office until the arrival of Commodore Biddle, in June, 1847, when he was ordered on board his vessel for duty as Lieutenant. Mr. Hyde was then appointed alcalde by General Kearny and held the office until April 3rd, 1848. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When General Kearny became military governor here in 1847, he approved the change of name from Yerba Buena to San Francisco as already in use by Alcalde Bartlett. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Jos&eacute; Ramon Carrillo, before mentioned as a distinguished bear hunter, notwithstanding his fondness for the exciting sport, was himself as gentle as a lamb. There always appeared on his face whether in conversation or not, a peculiar smile, which indicated his good nature.  On one occasion he was out in the woods, with his companions, in Sonoma county; where he lived, and they saw a bear a little distance off. He proposed to the others to go on foot and fight the animal alone, to which they assented. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>He had a large sharp knife, and taking the <HI REND="italics">mochila</HI>
025.sgm:<P>On another occasion he was riding alone through the woods, when, seeing a bear a little distance away, he went after him on his horse, prepared to throw his reata and lasso him. That part of the country was overgrown with <HI REND="italics">chamiza</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Don Jos&eacute; Ramon instantly took in the situation; and saw that in such close quarters with the animal, with no room to move about to use his reata or otherwise defend himself, his situation would be a dangerous one should the courage of the bear revive; and that his safety was in allowing him to get away. The bear commenced to climb up the steep sides of the pit, where it was very difficult to get any kind of a hold, and Carrillo, with wonderful presence of mind, placed his strong arms under the brute's hind-quarters and, exerting all his strength, gave him a good lift. The bear having the good sense to rightly appreciate this friendly assistance, struggled forward, got out, and scampered away, leaving the horse and his master to climb out as best they could. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1850, Don Jos&eacute; Ramon Carrillo married the widow of Don Tomas Yorba; and in 1851, as I was about leaving San Diego, I sold to him my furniture there, which he added to the establishment at Santa Ana where he lived with his wife. In 1861, as he was riding towards his home one night some one waylaid him on the road and shot him dead. He was found there as he fell. The perpetrator of the crime was never discovered. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1836 or '37, Don Jos&eacute; Martinez started from the mansion at Pinole to go out for a little sport at bear hunting, with several companions. This rancho is situated in a deep valley, with high hills on either side. When they had got some little distance from the house they fancied they heard a bear not far away, and Don Jos&eacute; rode off ahead of the others, up the side of the hill, and suddenly came close upon a bear, himself unprepared for an attack.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Do&ntilde;a Encarnacion, the widow of one of the Peraltas, the present wife of Don Manuel Ayala, resided at Temescal, where she had a beautiful home, one of the handsomest in the country. In 1840, while she was Mrs. Peralta, she lived a quarter of a mile from her later residence in a north-easterly direction. About where her home was she had a large vegetable garden, or <HI REND="italics">milpa</HI>
025.sgm:, and cultivated watermelons. One day in the month of August, she walked down from her house at midday to look at her garden and see how her melons and vegetables were getting on. As she was about to return to the house, just as she had left the garden, she saw a short distance off five or six horsemen, among them her husband, gathered about an immense bear which they had just lassoed. It was the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
025.sgm: season, and the animal had been attracted to the spot by the smell of the meat. He had come down from the mountains to feast upon the carcasses of the slaughtered cattle, but, contrary to the usual custom, had boldly approached in the broad light of day instead of at night. He was a monster, the largest that had ever been seen there, strong and savage, having broken one of the reatas. It required the strength of all the men to manage and hold him. Do&ntilde;a Encarnacion was a good deal startled at the sight of the struggling beast. Her husband made a motion to her to go back to the <HI REND="italics">milpa, which she</HI>
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025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>REPORT UPON THE SELECTION OF MR. THOMAS DOUGLAS, GRADUATE OF YALE COLLEGE, AS SAN FRANCISCO'S FIRST PUBLIC SCHOOL TEACHER; TOGETHER WITH BILL IN FULL FOR SAN FRANCISCO'S FIRST PUBLIC SCHOOL HOUSE</P>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXII  <HI REND="italics">The Gold Rush Starts; and Other Incidents</HI>
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025.sgm:<P>While the "Euphemia" was being overhauled and put in order, Sherman was busy buying a return cargo, and his selections proved suitable for the mines, which were discovered during his absence. The "Euphemia" arrived at San Francisco just in the nick of time, in June, 1848, a few days after the first appearance here of the gold from Sacramento. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the evening of Mr. Sherman's arrival, Mr. W. D. M. Howard invited eight of his intimate friends (among the number the writer) to partake of a fine dinner, in honor of and to welcome Sherman's return. It was in the early hours of morning that this group of young argonauts retired to their homes, after an hilarious and enjoyable feast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1849, the "Euphemia" was chartered by W. D. M. Howard, Hiram Grimes, Joseph P. Thompson, Eulogio de C&eacute;lis and myself, for a voyage to Mazatlan for Mexican goods, with a capital of $45,000 in gold dust. C&eacute;lis furnished $ 15,000, and went as supercargo; Howard and myself, $10,000 each, and the other two of the company $5,000 apiece. At my suggestion, Howard and I called on board the flag-ship "Ohio," and asked Commodore Jones to give the "Euphemia" an American flag, instead of the Hawaiian, which he readily did. The occasion of the interchange of flags was celebrated with sparkling wine on board the brig, by a large company of friends, including Commodore Jones. The voyage to Mexico proved to be a success to those interested in the enterprise. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sometime in 1850 I sold the "Euphemia" to the city of San Francisco, to be used as a prison brig, and she was moored alongside Long Wharf for a time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Thus ended the career of one of the luckiest vessels to her owners that I have known in my long business experience. She was homely and a slow sailer, but carried more than double her tonnage in freight. On her first voyage to California she cleared $30,000 the day I obtained the receipt for the duties and Custom House permission to trade up and down the coast. Her numerous voyages to Honolulu and San Francisco were very prosperous financially, and during my ownership only one accident occurred to the "Euphemia." </P>
025.sgm:<P>The "J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana" was owned by Mr. Aguirre, as I have before stated. In the beginning of December, 1848, Major Reading, of the firm of Hensley, Reading &amp; Co., of Sacramento, was in my store one morning. The subject of conversation between the Major and myself on that occasion was the high price of flour that ruled in the market. Reading suggested getting up a voyage to Oregon for a cargo of flour. I replied, "Yes, I have a vessel in port already manned, belonging to Aguirre." The Major wanted to know how soon she could sail.  I said, "Right away, as she is already prepared for sea." Reading asked how much money would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>In two days from that time, the bark was on her way to Portland, with a spanking breeze at her stern from the southeast. She arrived at the Columbia river and went to Portland in remarkably quick time. Three or four days after her arrival, Mr. Snyder succeeded in buying a full cargo of flour for the vessel, at reasonable prices. While she was getting ready to start on the return voyage the Columbia river froze over, and the vessel remained from December, 1848, to April, 1849, walled in by ice. During the time the bark was detained, many vessels arrived from Chili with flour. The consequence was, when our flour reached here it had no price in the market. It was sent in the vessel to Sacramento, and jobbed out at fair prices, so that we lost no money, but made some profit. </P>
025.sgm:<P>P. B. Reading was the Whig candidate for Governor of California, in the election of 1851, against John Bigler, the Democratic candidate for the same office. Being a Whig, I voted for the former, who was defeated by Bigler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The American flag was raised at Yerba Buena, by Captain Montgomery, of the "Portsmouth," as before stated, July 9th, 1846. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The ship "Brooklyn," Captain Richardson, arrived from New York about the last of the same month. The vessel brought passengers to the number of two hundred and thirty, and I was the first aboard after she dropped anchor, to welcome the new comers to our embryo American town. It was on this occasion I met Sam. Brannan for the first time, who was a passenger. The "Brooklyn" came with an organized military company, at the head of which was Brannan as its leader. They arrived a little too late for their object-to hoist our national standard; as the good work had already been accomplished by our squadron. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Many of the new comers pitched their tents on a lot of mine, on Washington street near Montgomery. These additions to our small village, proved to be desirable, as they were an industrious, hard-working and thrifty class of people, intelligent and sober. Among them were carpenters and house builders. After their arrival, the echoes of mechanics' hammers vibrated through the sand hills of Yerba Buena. From every direction in the village, the signs of progress under the change and that of the American system, became apparent. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Soon after Brannan's arrival, he commenced business in a spirit of push and energy; and at once manifested an interest in California's prosperity which he has assisted materially to develop and in promoting her varied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FIRST PUBLIC SCHOOL HOUSE IN SAN FRANCISCO, SITUATED ON PORTSMOUTH SQUARE, AND FIRST USED APRIL 3, 1848</P>
025.sgm:<P>After the discovery of gold, at Sutter's mill-race in January 1848, and the news had spread over the Pacific Ocean, vessels began to come in with merchandise, from Honolulu, Mazatlan, San Blas, Valparaiso, Callao, Chinese and other Pacific ports. </P>
025.sgm:<P>By the time the first steamer arrived from Panama with eastern passengers, there were already anchored in the bay of San Franicsco, quite a fleet of vessels of nearly all nations, which had come to receive their share of the newly discovered treasure, in exchange for goods, which were in much demand to supply the wants of those who had gone in great numbers to the mines from all portions of the department, and of the passengers by vessels. In the month of June, 1848, two miners came to my store with fine scale gold dust. I had seen similar gold from the San Fernando mines in Los Angeles county. But withal I was in doubt as to the genuineness of the bright metal before me.  The miners and myself called on James C.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:Ward, a neighboring merchant. He proved to be incompetent to determine whether it was gold or not. We four men went to Buckalew, a jeweler and watchmaker. Mr. Buckalew applied the <HI REND="italics">aqua fortis</HI>
025.sgm:<P><ANCHOR ID="n62-12">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: <NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n62-12">Samuel Brannan brought the first samples of gold to San Francisco, May 15, 1848.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>Gold and silver coin became very scarce in the market. The duties on goods from foreign ports, had to be paid in coin, and the merchants were unable to comply with the custom laws. An arrangement was made with the Collector of the Port, to receive gold dust on deposit from them, at ten dollars per ounce, for duties, redeemable at the end of sixty days with coin. Most of the gold pledged for duties was sold at auction by the government, at the expiration of the time, for about ten dollars per ounce, and less in some instances. This action of the government was a great hardship to the merchants, as they incurred a loss of six dollars for each ounce thus sold, and particularly when it was known at the Treasury Department in Washington, that the true value of the gold was from eighteen to twenty dollars per ounce, assayed and made into coin at the Mint in Philadelphia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>David Carter, of Boston, in the summer of 1848, formed a copartnership with me, for carrying on commercial business, between California and the Eastern States. Mr. Carter left here in the fall of 1848, by way of Central America. He carried with him about thirty thousand dollars in gold dust, to be coined at the United States Mint above named, and it was the first gold coined at that time from California. I had a small interest in this gold shipment. </P>
025.sgm:<P>One bright morning in February, 1849, the California, the first steamer from New York arrived here from Panama with the first gold-seekers from the Atlantic States. As she rounded Telegraph Hill, the vessel careened to the shore side, from the rush of passengers to get a look at the town. The United States Pacific naval squadron was anchored between Telegraph and Rincon Hills. Commodore Jones' flag-ship was the "Ohio." The other vessels were the "Portsmouth," "St. Mary," "Cyane," "Dale" and "Warren." </P>
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025.sgm:<P>The sight of the steamer, with her immense load of humanity, inspired the Commodore to order a general salute from the vessels of the fleet simultaneously. After the first broadsides from them they were enveloped in a cloud of smoke, until the end of the greeting of twenty-One guns from each ship. The handling of the guns was so admirable that the firing appeared as if from one only. The echoes of the cannonading vibrated among the hills and valleys of the surrounding country of the bay, as heralding the future greatness of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore Jones, who first planted the American flag in California, in 1842, was the first to fire the memorable salute in the bay of San Francisco welcoming the immigrants who came subsequent to the discovery of gold. The Commodore was proud of being the first of our naval officers to welcome the new immigration that subsequently laid the foundation of California, destined to assume the front rank among the States of the Union. The scene is fresh in my mind; the view of the spectacle being grand, inspiring and awakening the deepest enthusiasm. In this steamer came the agent, Alfred Robinson, of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, which had just been organized in New York; and the "California" was the first vessel built by that Company and sent out to the Pacific coast as the forerunner of a commercial fleet propelled by steam. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Alfredo Robinson came to California in the ship "Brookline," of Boston, in 1829, as assistant supercargo. He arrived at Monterey and in the same year came to San Francisco. He has now attained the ripe age of over four score years and is mentally and physically hale and strong, with the exception that he has become almost totally blind. Of the very earliest settlers of California Mr. Robinson stands first on the list of the few remaining argonauts. Jacob P. Leese comes second, J. J. Warner, number three, (if he is still living) and the writer, number four. It will not take many more years before the names here mentioned will disappear, as things of the past (1889). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Immediately below my home, north of Jackson and west of Stockton streets, there existed a hollow or little valley, with low, rolling hills on each side. In it in the summer of 1849, quite a village of tents was temporarily inhabited by people from all parts of the world, preparatory to departing for the mines. One night in the early hours of morning my slumber was disturbed by screams of women and children from the hamlet of canvas. While I was reflecting, in a half awake and half asleep condition, as if emerging from a dream or nightmare, I heard a sharp knock at the door of my dwelling. In opening it, there stood before me several women, trembling with fright. They had escaped from their temporary homes; the poor creatures came to my house for protection, which I gave them. One of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The town became alarmed and excited over this affair, and energetic measures were at once adopted to prevent a repetition of the outrage by these desperadoes. Mr. Samuel Brannan took the lead in the matter. Under his directions we organized patrols, and the town was divided into districts, each district guarded by a body of men under arms. I was appointed the head of seven, to guard north of Washington and east of Montgomery streets, running to the bay from these thoroughfares. For several weeks I shouldered one of Uncle Sam's shining muskets with bayonet, parading all night near the habitations of the roughest elements of the town. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While we were protecting the place Mr. Brannan was active and did good work. The breakers-of-the peace were arrested as fast as they were found and identified. They were placed on board the sloop-of-war "Warren," in irons, preparatory to their trial by a Court of the Territory. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. and Mrs. C. V. Gillespie arrived here in the American brig "Eagle," from Canton, in the beginning of February, 1848. With this vessel another American lady was added to the number of the very few that were already here, who with the male population were all very glad to welcome this estimable lady to the new American town. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Hall McAllister brought letters of introduction to Mr. Gillespie from the East, at the time when the "Hound" excitement was at its highest pitch. Horace Hawes was the prosecuting attorney against the evil-doers and disturbers of the tranquility of the town. C. V. Gillespie, who was a member of the committee of safety, suggested to Mr. Hawes the name of Mr. McAllister as a young man of talent and learned in the profession of the law, to be associated with him in the prosecution of the "Hounds." This was the cause of his participating in those events. He prosecuted the prisoners for the Territory with marked ability. That trial established his legal talent, which developed up to the time of his demise, and stamped him the foremost barrister of the city of San Francisco and of the State of his adoption. I may safely remark here, that he probably had no superior in the Union in the law, considering that Mr. McAllister was master of all branches of practice in his profession. The "Hounds" were convicted after a stubborn and able defence by their attorney, Myron Norton. R. M. Sherman and Wm. H. Tillinghast were appointed a committee, to board the "Warren," to interview some of the prisoners. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>Some years after this occurrence, a young lady, a cousin of Sherman, met an older lady accidentally in New York. The subject of their conversation turned on California. The former mentioned that she had a cousin in California named Richard M. Sherman. The latter replied that she was familiar with a part of the early history of the Golden State. She had a son, by the name of Higgins, who was one of the gang of "Hounds," that were tried and convicted for the crime above named. It was a singular coincidence, that Sherman who was active in the exciting event and had waited on Higgins in his official capacity, as a committeeman, was a relative of the young woman. Higgins, the "Hound," was the son of the older lady. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The pressure was great for the first twelve months or more after the discovery of gold, to transport passengers and goods more speedily to the mines. The only transporters of passengers and goods were sailing schooners and launches. Early in 1849, Mr. John Parrott suggested to me the project of building a steam vessel, for commerce on these inland waters. Captain William A. Richardson, John Parrott and myself were to form a copartnership, with a cash capital of $45,000, as a beginning for our enterprise. Mr. Parrott was to leave for New York immediately, and to contract with a builder for a steamboat of about 200 tons capacity, to ply between San Francisco and Sacramento, with passengers and freight. He departed on the U. S. flagship "Ohio," by way of Mazatlan, for New York, in February, 1849; and on arriving there, he found that Jim Blair was then constructing a stern-wheel boat for the bay of San Francisco and rivers adjacent thereto. In a letter from Mr. Parrott to Richardson and myself, he discouraged our scheme, for the reason that the steamer already under construction for Blair would supply the demand of the increasing trade with the interior, and he thought that our undertaking would prove financially disastrous. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This news was anything but pleasant to the captain and myself, as the traffic with the mines had multiplied to such an extent that every man living here was astonished to witness the millions of wealth that were pouring into the town of tents. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I wrote to Mr. Parrott that there was business enough for our steamboat if she was built; yea, and eight or ten more with her, to meet the commercial demands of the bay and its tributaries. In his answer to my letter, he thought that my judgment was erroneous, and that he was right.  The project was abandoned, through him, to the injury of himself and his associates. The business would have produced for us hundreds of thousands, if not a million or more of dollars. I am sustained in this assertion by events that transpired subsequently in this line of business. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>Richardson and myself got our money back from New York, after waiting a long while. Blair's boat was called "Sutter," after the pioneer of Sacramento Valley, and she did a large and profitable business for her owner. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Lafayette Maynard was the owner of a part of block of real estate, bounded by Sacramento, Sansome and California streets, which bore his name. He had been a lieutenant in the United States navy, and was familiar with the art of surveying harbors and rivers. He took Wilkes' survey of the Sacramento river, and examined it critically for an object. He went to capitalists in New York, explained and demonstrated to them that it was practicable and feasible for a deep sea steamer of 600 or 800 tons measurement to navigate the river to Sacramento city. The steamer "Senator" was purchased by a syndicate, for the purpose suggested by Maynard, and he was included in the company. At the time of the transaction, she was a packet out of New York, running on the Sound. She departed immediately for San Francisco through the Straits of Magellan, and arrived here early in September, 1849. Samuel Brannan, W. D. M. Howard, (and, I think,) Bezar Simmons, and myself, made up the party of four who boarded her soon after she dropped anchor. Mr. Brannan, who was the originator of the project, was selected by us as our spokesman. He soon made known the object of our visit, and offered the captain or agent of the steamer the large sum of $250,000, in gold dust, at sixteen dollars per ounce, for her sale to us. This offer was rejected with smiles, by those representing the steamer. Mr. Brannan again asked them what would they take for the vessel. The answer came that she was not for sale. So ended our trip to the most historic vessel of the days of forty-nine. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It was often remarked that the "Senator" had carried enough gold from Sacramento to San Francisco to sink her two or three times over with the weight of the precious metal. Add to this the passage and freight money, the former two ounces for the trip, and the latter from forty dollars to eighty dollars per ton, and the amount received was enormous. It would probably take two or three similar steamers to convey the freighted gold, and the gold and silver coin she had earned for her owners during the height of our gold production. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The "Old Senator," by which name she was familiarly known, is now moored in the waters of Australia, as a coal vessel. Had she possessed intelligence, she might have been too proud of her nationality, and for her deeds of the past in the accumulation of wealth to the country of her birth, to become a naturalized subject of a British colony, by the change of flags. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Had Mr. Parrott exercised his known foresight and great business <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CITY OF BENICIA, 1854  </P>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Under the name "Francisca," Robert Semple and General Mariano G. Vallejo with Thomas O. Larkin projected here the city which they and many of the higher officers of both the Army and Navy felt would supplant the growing settlement of Yerba Buena.  General Vallejo's wife was named Francisca Benicia; hence the choice of Benicia instead of Francisca when Alcalde Washington A. Bartlett in 1847 decreed that Yerba Buena should be known in the future by the ancient name of San Francisco</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXIII  <HI REND="italics">Commodore Jones Extols Benicia in Vain</HI>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>UNITED STATES CUSTOM HOUSE, NORTHWEST CORNER CALIFORNIA AND MONTGOMERY STREETS, OWNED BY WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS, DESTROYED IN FIRE OF MAY 4, 1851</P>
025.sgm:<P>THE first brick building of more than one story erected in San Francisco was commenced in September, 1849, by the writer, at the northwest corner of Montgomery and California streets; forty feet on the first and eighty feet on the latter street, four stories high, with a cellar. The bricks and cement, and other materials, were brought from Boston. The winter of 1 849-'50 was so rainy that the work on the structure was stopped early in November, and re-commenced in April, 1850.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>One lovely morning in April, 1850, Commodore Jones approached me where my building was being put up, and said he had a business proposition for my consideration. The naval commander of the Pacific squadron immediately gave me the details of it; which was for me to stop building, and to undo what had been done; and he would transport all the materials of my structure to Benicia in one of his ships of war, free of charge for freight. </P>
025.sgm:<P>He and other Benicians were to deed me a very eligible piece of real estate in the city of the Carquinez free of cost, conditioned that I should erect a large brick building on the site. The Commodore went into the particulars of the commercial advantages of Benicia over San Francisco, in extended and able remarks, such as a man of talent and of vast information would surely make. After listening to the historical naval officer's praises of the interior deep sea harbor, with all due respect to his high rank, I said: "I beg to differ with you. In my judgment San Francisco is destined to be the harbor and business emporium on the Bay of San Francisco, from her geographical position and accessibility for vessels from the ocean." I thanked the Commodore for having spent more than an hour in attempting to convince me from his standpoint of the superior advantages possessed by Benicia for being the future big city of California, but was compelled to differ with him nevertheless. At this time and previously, there had been a vigorous move on the part of a few men, to locate San Francisco at Benicia for all time, as the great city on the waters of San Francisco Bay. Among the schemers were Robert Semple, General Vallejo, Thomas O. Larkin, Henry D. Cook, William M. Steuart, and the heads of the United States army and navy on the coast. I was talked to by some of the parties above named, before Commodore Jones interviewed me who made propositions of magnitude in my interest, from their view of the subject. They wanted me to give up the city that I had assisted to build from its infancy, and to establish my large business at Benicia; which was something that I could not accede to. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>That building after it was finished, I leased to the United States Government in June, 1850, for a Custom House. The rental was to be three thousand dollars per month, or thirty-six thousand dollars per year for three years to run. In the great fire of May, 1851, the Custom House <illus entity="a025-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LOOKING SOUTH ALONG MONTGOMERY FROM TELEGRAPH HILL  AFTER FIRE OF MAY 4, 1851</P>
025.sgm:<P>Thomas Butler King was the Collector of the Port at that time. The removal of the treasure from the ruins of my building, to the new custom-house, Palmer, Cook &amp; Co's. old banking house, northwest corner of Kearny and Washington streets, constituted a procession of about fifty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>One evening in December, 1848, Se&ntilde;or Aguirre and myself were seated by a blazing fire, in the sitting room of my home in San Francisco. The wind was blowing from the southeast, the windows of the dwelling rattled with the storm, and the piazza was drenched by the spattering of the silvery drops that fell from the dark clouds overhead. I said to Don Jos&eacute; Antonio, that the "J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana" sailed but a week or two since for Oregon, for a cargo of flour, and I had another business proposition in my mind, to make for his consideration :-"You and I both have money lying idle. Let us arrange a voyage to China, for a cargo of Chinese goods, for this market." He replied that he had confidence in my business ability, and any suggestion coming from me he would gladly assist to carry out. I said, "Let us charter the ship Rhone for the object and I will prevail on her owners to join us." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Aguirre was an old merchant that traded between Mexico and China, mentioned previously, and was familiar with the cost of goods in China; also with the prices of the articles when sold here. I asked him what capital we would require for the expedition. He said, not less than $1 00,000, to make it profitable and that $ 120,000 would be still better. I replied, "All right; we will put in $40,000, and I think Finley, Johnson &amp; Co. will invest $40,000; and I am sure Cross, Hobson &amp; Co., will make up the balance." He suggested that I had better move in the matter soon. The following day I arranged with the two firms above named, and by noon the Rhone was chartered. The beginning of January, 1849, the American ship Rhone departed for Canton <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Finley who was also an old China trader between Baltimore and China, went as supercargo, to attend to the business of the Rhone. The ship returned to San Francisco in the summer of 1849 with a cargo of goods. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mr. Finley had a written instruction, on the eve of his departure, to invest the funds under his charge wholly for China goods and no other. About half of the cargo proved to be European and American goods, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Let me remark right here, that it was the unanimous wish of the charterers of the Rhone, that I should go as supercargo instead of Finley, and the latter urged me over and over to accept the appointment, and relieve him of the responsibility of the undertaking. Had I gone one thing is certain, I would have obeyed my instructions to the letter. In the end however we lost no money, but made a profit.  In the summer of 1849, and after the arrival of the ship Rhone from Canton, my friend Aguirre conceived the idea for a business voyage to the Southern ports of California.  He had in my safe between $ 100,000 and $200,000 in doubloons and gold dust, and he was eager to do something with it. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The bark Rochelle, of Boston, was in port, and Aguirre wanted me to charter her for our joint account, and I did so. Captain John Paty was in town without a ship, and he was engaged for master of the vessel. In a short time she was filled with goods, on freight for different points on the coast, and with merchandise on our own account. She sailed for Monterey, and after she had passed Point Pinos in the night, the wind shifted to the southeast. In order to reach the anchorage of Monterey, she had to make tacks, and beat against the wind. In standing in towards the shore on which were the picnic grounds of olden times, south of Point Pinos, she struck on a rocky point, in the darkness and sprung a leak. Captain Paty, however, managed to get her off and came to anchor. In a few days after the accident, a courier arrived from Monterey, with letters from Aguirre and Paty, informing me of the mishap. At that time I was the owner of a Baltimore-built bark of about three hundred tons burden, named Hortensia, which was lying here in the stream, preparatory to a departure later in the year for Valparaiso in ballast for a cargo of flour, on my own account for this market. This unexpected news changed the programme of the Hortensia's intended voyage to Chile. In twenty-four hours after the receipt of my mail from Monterey, the Hortensia was on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>This was the first misfortune that had occurred to Captain Paty during his long career on the coast as mariner and shipmaster. He looked very much depressed, when he reached the deck of the Hortensia, after we had dropped anchor. The misfortune of the Rochelle was a good thing for the Hortensia, as it proved afterward. The influx of flour from Chile during the winter of 1849-50 was so great that its price came down, and the shippers of the article suffered heavy losses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1850 and part of 1851, Mrs. Davis lived at San Diego in her own house. During a visit to her in the latter year, I was invited by a nephew of one of the early governors of California, to join him and his brothers, in a gold-hunting expedition to Lower California. Our company consisted of the three Argellos, myself, two servants, and two pack mules, for our baggage and provisions. During our journey through the sparsely populated country, to the Mission of Santo Tomas, we camped every night near a spring or stream of running water. Do&ntilde; Ramon Argello, who acted as our guide, would pitch our tents, after the ground had been cleared of brushes and scrub oak, in a circle of about 300 feet circumference, the boundary of which was encircled with a rim of fire. This was done to protect us from nightly attacks of rattlesnakes while we slept. The territory was infested with these repulsive and dangerous reptiles. Every day during our march, Don Ramon would kill, on an average, a dozen of these snakes. He would eat a portion of their bodies, after it was broiled over a hot fire, and often remarked to me, that it was more nutritious than the meat of a fat chicken. He tried to prevail on his brothers, to share with him in his "tidbits," as he called them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We stopped as we moved along at the rancheros' old adobes, and received their hospitalities--a repetition of the treatment of strangers in Upper California in the days gone by. We drank very good native wine, from the vineyards of the pioneers of the department. We were several days in reaching Santo Tomas, where we camped in the ancient olive orchard of the Mission, under the shade of its trees. The trees were lofty, their planting having been the work of the early missionaries, more than a century before my visit there. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Here Don Manuel Castro who was the military commander of this part of the country, joined our party, with five soldiers and a corporal, as an escort, to our journey of discovery. General Castro also provided us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The expedition arrived at Trinidad, a valley in a mountain of over four thousand feet above the level of the sea, twenty to thirty miles back from the Pacific Ocean. Here we dispatched the interpreter with another Indian for Chief Zapaje. In three days time our couriers returned with the chief and other aborigines. Our camp fed them well, before our big talk took place over the object of our visit, with Zapaje. General Castro was a talented man and a man of persuasive power of language. He commenced first to convince the chief, that if he would make known the coveted spot and uncover it to us, he would present him with a <HI REND="italics">manada of</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Don Santiaguito Argello next argued with the chief, to tell him where the gold existed, and offered him one hundred head of cows, one <HI REND="italics">manada</HI>
025.sgm:<P>I was the third to have the final argument with the stubborn Indian. I commenced telling him that I was a merchant of San Francisco, the owner of bales of Turkey red handkerchiefs, calico, brown sheeting, colored blankets, tobacco, and other articles suitable to the Indian tastes of California; if he would show us where the mine was located, I would give him two bales of handkerchiefs, two of calico, two of cotton, fifty pairs of blankets, tobacco and other articles of value; conditioned that he bring us some of the gold first; after that we would meet him at this place with our presents, and follow him with the animals and goods to the location of the placer, where the whole property would be delivered to him. His answer to my liberal proposition was the same as already mentioned. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Here our hopes vanished for discovering the rumored deposits of gold, known to exist in primitive days of missionary regime. It was well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>On our way back to San Diego, we were intercepted at the ruins of the Mission of San Vicente by Don Emigdio Vega. He was a member of a prominent family of that name, in Los Angeles County, who were large cattle owners. Se&ntilde;or Vega offered to sell me seven hundred head of tame milch cows, many of them with suckling calves, and fifty head <HI REND="italics">cabestros</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In May, 1852, I visited San Diego, and received from Argello the cattle I had bought of Vega the year before. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On my way north with the band of cattle, I stopped at Los Angeles about two weeks, during which time I bought of Don Eulogio de C&eacute;lis, seven hundred large steers for thirteen dollars each. With this purchase it made the drove a large one. The band arrived at San Leandro in August, where they were re-branded and re-earmarked with my iron and earmark. The stock was removed to "San Joaquin" in the fall of 1852, and Jos&eacute; Antonio Estudillo, a brother of Mrs. Davis took charge of them. The consideration for his care over my cattle, being one-half of the increase from the cows. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P><illus entity="a025-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">The item telling of the departure of the "Euphemia" with specie consigned to E. &amp; H. Grimes, Oahu, is the subject of an interesting episode detailed in the text.  The names of Sutter, Brannan, E. P. Jones, Major P. B. Reading, all appearing in this early issue of San Francisco's first newspaper, are frequently met with in Davis' narrative.</HI>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXIV  <HI REND="italics">Davis Fails to Become Founder of Oakland</HI>
025.sgm:<P>PREVIOUS to my departure for Southern California, I had a corral built, large enough to contain my cattle, on my mother-in-law's portion of the Pinole rancho, which I had named "San Joaquin," after the husband of the proprietress of the land she had inherited from her father and mother, Don Ygnacio and Do&ntilde;a Martina Martinez. Mrs. Estudillo added to her interest by purchases from several of her sisters, who were also heirs of the Pinole. In titling the new rancho, I simply added San to the Joaquin, then it became the name of a Saint. The Californians were in the habit generally of naming their ranchos after Saints; probably from religious convictions that the Ruler on High in all things would aid and guide them in their daily pursuits. But it did not save them from the avaricious enemies of the Spanish and Mexican grants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Se&ntilde;ora Do&ntilde;a Juana Estudillo was the possessor of over seven thousand acres of valuable land, a part of the original "Pinole." She had the tract enclosed and improved with good fences and buildings. Under ordinary management it could have been made to produce from rents of the land enough income to have supported Mrs. Estudillo and her children. But the rancho was subsequently sold for thirty-eight thousand dollars. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Probably the present owner and the original purchaser from Mrs. Estudillo of the "San Joaquin" would not sell it for half a million dollars. The Central and Southern Pacific Railroad have acquired rights of way through the estate (1884). </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the end, my cattle speculation proved a success, for many steers were sold in the fall and winter of 1853 and 1854, for fifty, sixty and as high as seventy dollars for each animal. There were many of them stolen from the rancho, for lack of watchfulness on the part of the man who had the supervision of the animals. Schooners and launches came to the beach along the northern boundary of the rancho in the night, and the very vaqueros under pay from Estudillo to guard the cattle against thieves, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In 1853, the cattle at San Leandro were pretty well hemmed in by the squatters, and deprived of their pasturage, on their native soil. So it was compulsory on the part of the owners, to remove them to "San Joaquin," for grazing, to keep them from dying for want of grass and water. </P>
025.sgm:<P>My cattle and the herd from San Leandro made a rodeo of over four thousand cattle, a very respectable number compared with the round-up of the early days of the department. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Jos&eacute; Ramon Estudillo, another brother of Mrs. Davis, was fond of the sport of lassoing elk. He told me once that on this identical spot of "San Joaquin," he had seen many of these beasts of the forest grazing with the stock of the Pinole rancho. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After new San Diego was laid out, lumber was wanted for building purposes, by the projectors of the newly made plot, and by others; also by the quarter-master of the post, for government improvements. </P>
025.sgm:<P>About the latter end of the summer of 1850, the brig "Cybele" of three hundred and fifty tons burden, arrived from Portland, Maine, loaded with a cargo of lumber and bricks. Mr. Bond of the firm of Hussey, Bond &amp; Hale, offered me soon after the "Cybele" dropped anchor, the brig with her load of three hundred thousand feet of pine lumber, eight or ten houses already framed, and forty thousand bricks, for ten thousand dollars, and I bought the vessel and cargo just as she came from the East. The following day she sailed for San Diego, with the same captain that brought her to San Francisco. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The purchase proved profitable. About eighty thousand feet of the same lumber were re-shipped to San Francisco from San Diego in the winter of 1851-52, and I realized from it seventy dollars per thousand feet, free of freight. At the time of the arrival of the "Cybele," building materials were a glut in the market of San Francisco. The vessel was similar to the "Euphemia," as a great carrier, for her tonnage. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It was evident after the change of flag that the growth of San Francisco would be rapid, even without subsequent discovery of gold and the influx of immigration caused by it. The resources of the department were endless, as an agricultural and horticultural country; also, for grazing purposes. The latter had been demonstrated by the early settlers under the Mexican rule. This prospective wealth of California was sufficient to build and support one large city on the coast San Francisco, being geographically well situated for the commerce of the world, with her rich country bordering on the bay, and rich valleys accessible by water. </P>
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025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In my travels around the bay on business, I had observed a picturesque spot for a town on the estuary of San Antonio, due east from San Francisco. The site was known in early times as Encinal de Temescal, on Vicente Peralta's portion of the division of the Rancho San Antonio, segregated by Don Luis Peralta, his father. This site is the present city of Oakland. </P>
025.sgm:<P>My relation with Don Vicente was good, socially and commercially. In the fall of 1846, he was in my store making purchases. I told him I had a proposition to make for his consideration, and I desired him to dine with me that evening. After dinner I broached the matter, by saying to him: "You are the owner of the Encinal de Temescal, and there is a spot on that part of your rancho that pleases me for a town." He wanted to know the exact location of the place, and I pointed it out to him on a rough map I had prepared for the purpose. I offered him five thousand dollars cash for two-thirds of the Encinal, to build a church of his faith, also to construct a wharf and run a ferry-boat from San Francisco to the intended town, all of which to be at my cost and expense. Whenever sales of lots were made, we would both sign the deeds, and each take his pro rata of the money. Don Vicente, in reply to my talk, said that he would take the matter under advisement and let me know. </P>
025.sgm:<P>He inquired the extent of the land I sought to purchase. I described it to him on my sketch, which made Fifteenth street from the bay to Lake Merritt the northern boundary, and thence from Lake Merritt, following the meandering of the shore boundary of the present city of Oakland to the intersection of Fifteenth street with the shore line of the bay of San Francisco. When we met again, Don Vicente was not prepared to give me an answer. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While my mind was full of my project, I interviewed and explained to W. D. M. Howard, Sam. Brannan, Henry Mellus, Alcalde Hyde, James C. Ward, Wm. A. Leidesdorff, Robert Ridley, Frank Ward, Hiram Grimes, Wm. M. Smith, Robert A. Parker, Francisco Guerrero, Josiah Belden, Bezar Simmons, C. L. Ross, R. M. Sherman, and many others of the leading citizens of San Francisco, my programme for a "Brooklyn" for San Francisco-an outlet for the coming city. Each of these gentlemen was willing and anxious to buy a block or more of land for a retreat so near the metropolis, whenever I completed my arrangements with Peralta, and mapped the town. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During my numerous conversations with him at various times on the subject before me, I told him that if he declined to accept my generous offer, he would suffer essentially, from a business standpoint; that his land would be squatted on, and his cattle slaughtered without his knowledge at night by evil-doers, and the meat shipped to San Francisco and sold.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>I went to see his father at the city of San Jos&eacute;, accompanied by James Alex. Forbes (British vice-Consul for California, who was married to a sister of Mrs. Vicente Peralta,) who knew the old man well. Old Peralta said that the land I desired to buy from his son Vicente absolutely belonged to the latter. I preserved in my project year after year, to induce Don Vicente to yield to my liberal proffer, as I considered I was doing him a kindness. But it was of no avail, and the stubborn man stood alone in his singular notion, against the judgment and advice of his good wife, of the British vice-Consul (his brother-in-law), of the Catholic priest, and other friends of Don Vicente, all of whom advised him to accept my proposition by all means. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the meantime, boatmen from San Francisco were bringing meat from the cattle belonging to Vicente Peralta to the city. These cattle were killed with rifles in the night, under the shadow of the Encinal, by parties who had already squatted on his lands. At one time Peralta and a vaquero came suddenly on a party of men, in the night, who were quartering a beef, preparatory to shipment to San Francisco. The squatters immediately pointed their guns at Peralta and his vaquero, who departed, in order to save their lives. This slaughtering of his animals began as early as 1848, before the discovery of gold. In the fore-part of 1850 I made my last call on Don Vicente on this business, to renew once more my offer. At this time the Encinal de Temescal was well covered with squatters. But I received the same reply as before. Probably the loss to Peralta in cattle would exceed one hundred thousand dollars. I have heard it estimated by others much above my figures. </P>
025.sgm:<P>He sold the site that I wanted to buy from him in the fall of 1850, to Colonel Jack Hays, Major John C. Caperton, Col. Irving, Alexander Cost, John Freaner and others, for eleven thousand dollars, after spending more than the amount he received, in fruitless lawsuits, for the possession of his lands from the squatters. Everything that I had predicted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Several years after the above event, one bright spring morning, I met Don Vicente accidentally on Broadway in Oakland. He was glad to see me, and invited me to a costly French breakfast. During our enjoyable meal, he referred to our, old social and business relations, and at last he broke out with an expression in his own language: " <HI REND="italics">Yo fui muy tonto, de no aver aceptado su proposicion, tocante al Encinal de Temescal</HI>
025.sgm:."  (I was very foolish not to have accepted your proposition, in regard to the Encinal de Temescal.) In reply I said to him: " <HI REND="italics">Es inutil de llorar por leche derramada</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The following narrative concerning an historical Rancho in Alameda County, is a fair illustration of certain events throughout the State generally, after the change of government, in respect to the difficulties and annoyances endured by the early settlers, and legal owners of the land and rightful possessors, in retaining their homes from the grasp of unscrupulous squatters and adventurers. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1834 and 1835, Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Estudillo was living at the Presidio of San Francisco, and was elected first-alcalde of the district at the time. In the latter part of 1835 or the beginning of 1836, he removed to Rancho Pinole, and in the same year he located with his family at San Leandro. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Joaquin Estudillo settled on the Rancho San Leandro in 1836. He first obtained a written permit from the governor of the department to occupy the land. After he had located there with his family, he petitioned Governor Alvarado for a title. While the Governor had the matter under consideration, Guillermo Castro, who owned the adjoining rancho San Lorenzo of six leagues to the east of San Leandro, was intriguing with Alvarado to obtain a grant of the same land. Governor Alvarado had married a first cousin of Castro. Although the former was on intimate terms with Estudillo, the governor was rather inclined to favor his cousin. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Estudillo and Castro were both summoned by the governor to appear before him, to determine the petitions of the two applicants. Estudillo triumphed over Castro in the controversy. The former received his title papers in 1842 for one league of land, more or less, within and according to the following boundaries: on the west the Bay of San Francisco, on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In 1851 men commenced settling on the San Leandro rancho, against the wishes of its legal owner. The squatters had started a story that Estudillo had changed his title papers from one league to two leagues of land. Estudillo's grant called for one league, more or less, in accordance with the dise&ntilde;o (plat) and all the land contained therein belonged to the grantee. It was so decided by the government of the United States, and a patent was issued to Estudillo for seven thousand and ten acres of land. Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin was an educated, intelligent and upright man, and he had nothing to gain from a pecuniary standpoint in making the alterations as alleged by the Squatters, as the ownership of the tract was already in him. Besides, all title papers before delivery to the grantee were recorded in the government archives at Monterey. The scheme of the enemies of the title was inconsistent with the facts. Squatting first made its appearance along the banks of the San Lorenzo creek, at a place subsequently known as "Squatterville." It soon spread over the entire rancho. From the incipiency of the epidemic, the sons and sons-in-law of Se&ntilde;or Estudillo opposed the evil-doers in seizing the land. At times when we encountered these men in their different holdings, there was a tendency or appearance towards a bloody affray. But among them, there were conservative counsellors and prudent squatters, who invariably prevailed on the rougher class to avoid bloodshed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Only in one instance was this good advice disregarded. A young, intelligent man from Vermont, by the name of Albert W. Scott, was severely wounded by a pistol shot through the body, by one of the leaders of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Once in the spring of 1852, during my temporary absence to the Southern country, the cattle of the rancho that were raised along the San Lorenzo creek and vicinity, suffered greatly for want of water. The squatters had fenced in the entrance to the creek, and prevented the stock from getting to the only place where they could be enabled to drink. John B. Ward happened to know Captain Chisholm, one of the squatters on the creek, and he prevailed upon him, to allow the poor animals to take their daily beverage of pure fresh water, and keep them from dying from thirst. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Some of these men were very malicious, and they often shot and wounded horses and cattle that were raised on the rancho and they always did so under the cover of darkness. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While the controversy with the squatters was progressing in these exciting times of 1851, 1852, 1853 and 1854, Mr. Ward and myself were asked by the lawyers of the rancho to bring them the title papers. Mr. Ward undertook to do so, and carried the papers in his breast coat pocket. On leaving the embarcadero of San Leandro in a small launch, in the night, on his way to San Francisco he assisted the crew of the craft in poling and rowing through the meandering of the creek. While thus engaged, the papers fell out of his pocket into the water, and in the darkness of the night were lost. This created another furore by the enemies of the title. During all these turbulent times the members of the family were in constant fear of their personal safety. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The family instituted several ejectment suits against the squatters. In each trial the jury disagreed, but the majority of them in each case were against the wrong holders of the land. Thereupon John B. Ward, the lawyers and myself, formed a plan, which afterward proved successful in bringing the squatters to terms. An interest in the land was deeded to one Clement Boyreau, an alien. This enabled us to reach the jurisdiction of the United States Circuit Court. The squatters were sued by Boyreau in that Court. The trial lasted several weeks, and Judge Hoffman, who had been sitting with Judge McAllister during the trial, rendered a decision favorable to the plaintiff. This just verdict of the Federal Court overthrew <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>After the compromise in 1856 with the squatters, those that occupied the lands at Squatterville, bought at thirty dollars per acre one thousand acres; terms, one-third cash, the remaining unpaid amount in one and two years in equal payments, at ten per cent interest per annum. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1854 or 1855 the voters of Alameda county were dissatisfied with the location of the county seat at Alvarado, because it was not central, being within a short distance of the northern boundary of Santa Clara county. There was an election ordered for a choice of the county seat by popular vote. There were several candidates in the field, among them San Leandro, which succeeded over the other competitors. The county seat was removed from Alvarado, and the family mansion was surrendered to the county for a temporary court-house. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This structure was subsequently destroyed by fire in the night. There were many conjectures by the people of the county as to the origin of the fire. Probably it was the work of a vicious man, in order that the county seat might be removed back to Alvarado. After the fire the county seat still remained at San Leandro. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The people of Alvarado eventually succeeded in getting back the records, through some technicality of the law. </P>
025.sgm:<P>But again it was put back to San Leandro, where it remained for years. Subsequently there was a law enacted for its removal to Oakland. </P>
025.sgm:<P>While Mr. Ward and myself were canvassing the county for San Leandro, a plan was submitted by us to Mrs. Estudillo and her children to lay out a town for the coming county seat, if we were successful. San Leandro succeeded in the election, and a deed was executed to the county by the family, of a site for the county buildings. Two hundred acres of land were also reserved and a town was mapped, which is the present town of San Leandro. A fine hotel was built by the family, and named after the founder of San Leandro, "Estudillo." </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1856 and 1857 which were the last years of my management of the San Leandro, with Ward, the income of the rancho was more than forty thousand dollars yearly for rents of land. This enabled Mr. Ward and myself to discharge most of the liabilities that were incurred in our expensive litigations to recover the productive lands of the rancho. It thereafter produced a large revenue to the family from the very men who originally were adverse to our title. When I ceased to be one of the business managers, I left the estate with more money due from the sales of land, than the rancho was owing for our costly lawsuits. The San Leandro <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXV  <HI REND="italics">Which Reads Like Part of Dana's "Two Years Before the Mast</HI>
025.sgm:<P>THERE were several ports in the department, where the hides were transported to the vessels from the shore through the surf, namely: Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Santa Cruz and Monterey (the latter before the wharf was built by the government.) The ship's long boat was moored just outside the rollers, with two sailors on board to receive the cargo from the surf boats. The latter were hauled upon the beach out of the reach of the waves, and loaded, say, with ten hides each. The men would watch for the first, second and third rollers to comb and foam, and before the fourth made its appearance, the boats were pushed into the water energetically, with a man or two on board each to scull to the launch and unload the hides. This was repeated until the latter was loaded and towed to the ship. Between the third and fourth rollers, there is a lull of a minute at the most in the movements of these dangerous billows of the sea. The steersman of a surf boat, in approaching the shore, watched his opportunity for the fourth roller always, and guided her straight for the landing, and went in flying with the breaker, with the stern elevated to an angle with the bow of about thirty degrees, at a velocity of about 12 to 15 miles an hour, and during this exciting speed for a small boat, the oarsmen peaked the ends of their oars to the bottom of the boat whereby their outer ends were elevated beyond the reach of the roaring sea. All this work in landing and embarking for the vessels had to be done quickly, to avoid being swamped by non-compliance with the movements of the swell of the ocean, and for the salvation of life and property in those early days when wharves had not been built. But the crew and others of the ships, became experts with years of experience in voyages up and down the coast of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There were other sea ports on the coast from which the rancheros shipped hides and tallow, namely: El Cojo (Point Concepcion,) La Gaviota, and Refugio before mentioned. The Mission of San Juan Capistrano, about sixty miles south of Los Angeles, in the days of her glory in wealth, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>A native California lady named Se&ntilde;ora Do&ntilde;a Josefa Estrada &Aacute;brego, half-sister of Governor Alvarado, resided at Monterey in 1842 (still living there--1889) at the time Commodore Jones raised the American flag over that city. She was one of the most beautiful and intelligent of her sex. Like all her people, she felt deep chagrin that the fortunes of war should bring about a change which would compel her to submit to the new order of things. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore Jones as a gentleman, aside from his official rank, was an acceptable visitor in the families of the native Californians, where he was treated with courtesy, which he reciprocated in kind, as one who fully appreciated the situation, and would not permit himself to be outdone in gallantry. </P>
025.sgm:<P>One day he called at the &Aacute;brego mansion and alluded to the fine appearance of the assembled children--especially extolling the manly bearing of the boys. Acknowledging the compliments with a smile and graceful obeisance, la Se&ntilde;ora said, good naturedly, but with ill-concealed warmth: "I am only sorry, Commodore, my sons were not old enough to offer resistance when you captured our city." To which Commodore Jones replied: "The sentiment does you honor, madame. As lovers of their country, it would certainly have been their duty to do so. "Se&ntilde;ora &Aacute;brego, it may be remarked, is at this writing (October, 1888,) 74 years of age and in a remarkable state of mental and physical preservation. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The writer was interviewed by a reporter of the San Diego <HI REND="italics">Sun</HI>
025.sgm:<P>"In the year 1831, our three vessels were at La Playa, preparatory to one of them loading for Boston. It was at this time that Mr. Jones removed to the Presidio above Old Town, taking with him a cook from one of the vessels, two stewards and two servants. He rented a home at the Presidio, which was then located at the present ruins, on the eminence just above the palm trees in Old Town. The military headquarters and the soldiers of this department were located there. In fact, all the inhabitants of this section were living at the Presidio. It was quite a lively town. At our house, which was a building of six or eight rooms, we entertained many beautiful Spanish women at dinners, and also at dancing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>"The location of the Presidio was chosen from a military point of view, to protect the citizens of this miniature city, from the ferocious and savage Indians of those days. In the town the inhabitants, soldiers and citizens numbered between 400 and 500. Quite a large place. There was a great deal of gaiety and refinement here. The people were the &eacute;lite of this portion of the department of California. In the garrison were some Mexican and not a few native Spanish soldiers. What is now called Old Town, was at that date laid out, but was not built for some time thereafter. Whenever a ship came to anchor at La Playa, saddle horses were at once dispatched from the Presidio to bring up the supercargo and captain. The voyage of these vessels from Boston, usually occupied from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and seventy-five days. Monterey being the seat of the government of California, and the port of entry of the department, all vessels were compelled to enter that port first. After paying the necessary duties, they were allowed to trade at any of the towns along the coast, as far south as Lower California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"I returned to the coast in the Boston bark "Don Quixote," Captain John Paty, in 1838, having been absent about two years. Afterwards I became supercargo of the same vessel. During my two year's absence, the town (or Presidio) on the hill gradually changed its location to where Old Town now exists. The population was about the same, with possibly a natural increase. The rancheros of the vicinity usually kept their families at the Presidio as a protection against the Indians. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"From 1838 to the present time I have been a resident of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Of the new town of San Diego, now the city of San Diego, I can say that I was its founder. In 1850, the American and Mexican commissions, appointed to establish the boundary line, were at Old Town. Andrew B. Gray, the chief engineer and surveyor for the United States, who was with the commission, introduced himself to me one day at Old Town. In February, 1850, he explained to me the advantages of the locality known as "Punta de los Muertos" (Point of the dead), from the circumstance that in the year 1787 a Spanish squadron anchored within a stone's throw of the present site of the city of San Diego. During the stay of the fleet, surveying the bay of San Diego for the first time, several sailors and marines died and were interred on a sand spit, adjacent to where my wharf stood, and was named as above. The piles of my structure are still imbedded in the sands, as if there had been premeditation to mark them as the tomb-marks of those deceased early explorers of the Pacific ocean and of the inlet of San Diego, during the days of Spain's greatness. I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>"Messrs. Jos&eacute; Antonio Aguirre, Miguel Pedrorena, Andrew B. Gray, T. D. Johns and myself were the projectors and original proprietors of what is now known as the city of San Diego. All my coproprietors have since died, and I remain alone of the party, and am a witness of the marvellous events and changes that have since transpired in this vicinity during more than a generation. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"The first building in new San Diego was put up by myself as a private residence. The building still stands, being known as the San Diego hotel. I also put up a number of other houses. The cottage built by Andrew B. Gray is still standing, and is called "The Hermitage." George F. Hooper also built a cottage, which is still standing near my house in new San Diego. Under the conditions of our deed, we were to build a substantial wharf and warehouse. The other proprietors of the town deeded to me their interest in Block 20, where the wharf was to be built. The wharf was completed in six months after getting our title in March, 1850, at a cost of $60,000. The piles of the old wharf are still to be seen on the old wharf site in Block 20. At that time I predicted that San Diego would become a great commercial seaport from its fine geographical position and from the fact that it was the only good harbor south of San Francisco. Had it not been for our civil war, railroads would have reached here years before Stanford's road was built, for our wharf was ready for business." </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1861-62 unusually heavy rains fell in San Diego County, being thirty inches, the average fall for that section of the State being nine inches. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There were collected together six hundred or seven hundred soldiers of the United States Army, at the military depot in San Diego, from Arizona to go East, and from the East and San Francisco to go to Arizona, to guard the territory against the Confederates. During those unparalled storms, the country around the depot became miry and the travel for heavy teaming impossible. The fuel at the soldiers' quarters gave out, and there was no way to replenish the supply for the troops, to keep them alive with warm food. My wharf and warehouse were still in existence near the depot, and earning me several hundred dollars per month for wharfage and storage. The commanding officer of the post decided to use my property for fire-wood, as a military necessity. Being war time, it was demolished for that purpose, and I lost my income. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A few years after the occurrence, I went to work and collected evidence, in connection with the destruction of the wharf and warehouse. I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The depot block which I have mentioned above was donated to the government, by the original proprietors of New San Diego, at my suggestion, together with another block of land adjacent to the depot, and a wharf privilege for all time. The real estate has become very valuable, as well as the water property, since the rapid growth of the city next to Mexico, on the water front of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Speaking of the old historic building, at the military headquarters, which has been the receptacle for government stores since the year 1850: The lamented General Nathaniel Lyon of our civil war times, was quarter-master during the construction of the building. On its completion Captain Lyon said to me one evening: "I am going to give a <HI REND="italics">bayle</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Some three or four years since, I met General Vallejo, in the courtyard of the Palace Hotel, conversing with a few intelligent-looking American tourists. I remarked to him on his youthful appearance, for a man of his ripe age. He said he was the living patriarch of his countrymen, many of whom have passed away at great ages. "Yes, General," I said, "I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXVI  <HI REND="italics">In Which the Author Ends His Record</HI>
025.sgm:<P>I HAVE mentioned previously that I was on my way from Santa Cruz when the national standard was hoisted over San Francisco on the 9th of July, 1846. I arrived only a day or two after the occurrence. My name appears on the list of the inhabitants of Yerba Buena on the day the American flag waved over the little village for the first time, this place having been my residence for many years. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Several years anterior to 1838 there was a Chinaman on board the brig "Bolivar," Captain Nye, as a servant in the cabin, and he remained on the coast during the stay of the vessel. Probably this man of the Celestial Empire was the first that visited California until the commencement of 1848. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The American brig "Eagle" arrived here from Canton, China, on the 2d of February, 1848, with two Chinamen and a Chinawoman, who were looked upon as curiosities by some of the inhabitants of the growing town of San Francisco, who had never seen people of that nationality before. During the winter of 1848 and 1849 it was observable that Chinamen were multiplying by immigration rapidly. The Mongolians soon availed themselves, in the new field, of their pro rata of the large business that was being done here during the gold excitement. At that particular time there was no expression of alarm from the people of San Francisco that the Chinese would overrun the city of the bay and the State of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the multiplicity of matters upon which I have written, I have unintentionally omitted to narrate the manner in which the merchants generally kept their gold. Among the receptacles for the gold dust were tin pans, tin pots and also a vessel used as a piece of furniture for the sleeping apartments. The bright metal was placed in those after being weighed, and a tag attached on which was marked the number of ounces. </P>
025.sgm:<P>As I am closing my work, it is but proper to make a few remarks in reference to the Vigilantes of 1856. The subject has been written upon so often, that I deem it would be a repetition to write of the exciting scenes <illus entity="a025-0053" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[TEXT OF LETTERS ON OPPOSITE PAGE]</P>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0054" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Larkin's letter appointing William A. Leidesdorff Vice-Consul of the United States of America at Yerba Buena, later known by its original designation of San Francisco</HI>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0055" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Lieutenant Joseph Warren Revere was dispatched by Captain Montgomery to take possession of Sonoma.  This letter of Revere's is addressed to Mr. Kern, off f Fremont's survey party, then in charge at Sutter's Fort</HI>
025.sgm:  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The citizens who came forward to the rescue, deserve the everlasting gratitude of the people of the Pacific coast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In calling to mind incidents in which my old associates were connected, the act of doing so has revived many personal circumstances which though not needed in the book were pleasing; also many scenes of enjoyment with those who have departed from life and will be seen no more. Such events have awakened at times, mournful sensations, for <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"There is many a lass I've loved is dead, <LB>And many a lad grown old; <LB>And when that lesson strikes my head, <LB>My weary heart grows cold."</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Other remembrances have brought back happy associations with friends, and seasons past; between the gladness of some and the sadness of others, there arise sentiments, which, in the language of Ossian, "Like the swaying of the wind in the pine tops, are pleasing and mournful to the soul."</P>
025.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX</HEAD>
025.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>EXTRACT FROM PROCEEDINGS OF THE SAN FRANCISCO AYUNTAMIENTO OR CITY COUNCIL <LB>     NOTE:  This was first meeting to be held after San Francisco's first serious fire; that of December 24, 1849.  Ed. <LB>FORTY-FIRST MEETING <LB>     At a meeting of the Town Council held January 2,  1850, there were present: Messrs. <ANCHOR ID="na-13a">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Steuart, <ANCHOR ID="na-13b">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Brannan, <ANCHOR ID="na-13c">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Ellis, <ANCHOR ID="na-13d">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<P>Green, <ANCHOR ID="na-14">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Price, <ANCHOR ID="na-13e">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Davis and <ANCHOR ID="na-13f">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Turk. Hon. John W. <ANCHOR ID="na-13g">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-13a na-13b na-13c na-13d na-13e na-13f na-13g na-13h na-13i na-13j na-13k">Each of the names starred in the above is today the name of a San Francisco street.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-14">Present day Eighth Street in San Francisco was known as late as 1854 as Price Street.</NOTE>
025.sgm:<P>The minutes of the previous meeting having been read and approved, Communication from B. Nollner, concerning a grant of a 50 vara lot, laid on the table. </P>
025.sgm:<P>>Communication from the Prefect referred to a committee previously appointed for a similar communication. Col. Steuart, chairman. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Communication from W. C. Rogers returned. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Communication from J. Gilbert laid on table. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Communication from S. C. Simmons laid on table. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Petition of A. Melhado laid on table. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Petition of S. W. Hastings, Earl and McIntosh for relief from loss sustained from fire. Referred to judiciary committee. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Petition of Z. Snyder and J. D. Atkinson to assist J. B. Brown. Laid on table. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Petition of W. S. <ANCHOR ID="na-13h">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<P>The following report of Wm. Heath Davis, Chairman of Committee on Expenditures, read and accepted: to wit, that the following bills be paid. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Wm. M. <ANCHOR ID="na-13i">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Eddy, and others, surveying<HSEP>$3,487.80<LB>  Tucker, Pierson &amp; Co., coffins<HSEP>550.<LB>  Joel Allen, coffins<HSEP>800.<LB>  Geo. Smith &amp; Co., burying the dead<HSEP>570.<LB>  Charles Marshall, boarding bill<HSEP>79.<LB>  Robert Beck, furnishing Station House<HSEP>89.50<LB>  Brooks &amp; Friel, furnishing Station House<HSEP>76.50<LB>  E. Laffan, rent<HSEP>150.<LB>  Robert Beck, holding inquest<HSEP>22.<LB>  John Riker, posting bills<HSEP>20.<LB>  Shepherd &amp; Devor, candles<HSEP>47.50 </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>C. W. Cornell &amp; Co., coffins<HSEP>$300.<LB>  Tucker, Pierson &amp; Co., coffins<HSEP>156.<LB>  E. Laffan, rent<HSEP>460.<LB>  Chas. S. Hallock, coffins<HSEP>780.<LB>  Wm. W. Whaites, candles<HSEP>93.<LB>  Eastman &amp; Barr, rope, at fire Dec. 24<HSEP>10.<LB>  Chas. E. Hitchcock, Street Inspector<HSEP>185.<LB>  Chas. E. Hitchcock, Street Inspector<HSEP>300.<LB>  Samuel J. Clark, Jr., Coroner's fees<HSEP>60.<LB>  C. C. Parker, Lumber<HSEP>74.<LB>  Total<HSEP>$8,310.30 </P>
025.sgm:<P>Report of Col. Steuart, Chairman of Committee on Health and Police, read and laid on the table for future consideration. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Report of S. Brannan, Chairman of Committee to whom was referred petition of P. Dexter Tiffany, offering lot for sale for public use of the Town,--read and accepted. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Report of Frank Turk,<ANCHOR ID="na-13j">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm: Esq., Chairman of Committee to consider petition of H. <ANCHOR ID="na-13k">*</ANCHOR>
025.sgm:<P>On motion of Col. Steuart, the rules were suspended to take into consideration the report of the Committee on Health and Police. After adopting five sections of said report, it was again laid on the table. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. Brannan, Resolved that a Committee of two be appointed by the chair to draft a petition to the Governor for the suspension of the Prefect and Justice Colton, for malfeasance in office. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Messrs. Turk and Price were appointed. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On motion of Col. Steuart, Resolved, that the Secretary be authorized to procure an iron chest suitable for the safe keeping of the books and papers containing the proceedings of this council. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On motion, adjourned.<HSEP>H. L. Dodge, Secretary. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>JASPER O'FARRELL'S SIGNED STATEMENT </P>
025.sgm:<P>SIGNED STATEMENT OF JASPER O'FARRELL REGARDING THE MURDER OF JOS&Eacute; R. BERREYESA AND THE DE HARO TWINS, PUBLISHED IN THE LOS ANGELES STAR, SEPTEMBER 27, 1856. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"I was at San Rafael in June 1846 when the then Captain Fr&eacute;mont arrived at that Mission with his troops.  The second day after his arrival there was a boat landed three men at the mouth of the estero on Point San Pedro.  As soon as they were descried by Fr&eacute;mont there were three men (of whom Kit Carson was one) detailed to meet them. They mounted their horses and after advancing about one hundred yards halted and Carson returned to where Fr&eacute;mont was standing on the corridor of the Mission, in company with Gillespie, myself, and others, and said: "Captain, shall I take these men prisoners?" In response Fr&eacute;mont waved his hand and said: "I have got no room for prisoners."  They then advanced to within fifty yards of the three unfortunate and unarmed Californians, alighted from their horses, and deliberately shot them. One of them was an old and respected Californian, Don Jos&eacute; R. Berreyesa, whose son was the Alcalde of Sonoma. The two others were twin brothers and sons of Don Francisco de Haro, a citizen of the Pueblo of Yerba Buena. I saw Carson some two years ago and spoke to him of this act and he assured me that then and since he regretted to be compelled to shoot those men, but Fr&eacute;mont was bloodthirsty enough to order otherwise, and he further remarked that it was not the only brutal act he was compelled to commit while under his command. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"I should not have taken the trouble of making this public but that the veracity of a pamphlet published by C. E. Pickett, Esq., in which he mentions the circumstance has been questioned--a history which I am compelled to say is, alas, too true--and from having seen a circular addressed to the native Californians by Fr&eacute;mont, or some of his friends, calling on them to rally to his support, I therefore give the above act publicity, so as to exhibit some of that warrior's tender mercies and chivalrous exploits, and must say that I feel degraded in soiling paper with the name of a man whom, for that act, I must always look upon with contempt and consider as a murderer and a coward." </P>
025.sgm:<P>(signed) JASPER O'FARRELL. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The copy of the Los Angeles Star from which the above is taken is in the collection of the Historical Society of Southern California. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>NAMES OF RESIDENTS AROUND THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO 1838 </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1838 the following were the prominent families around the bay of San Francisco: At the Mission Dolores were Francisco de Haro, then alcalde who was married to the daughter of Don Jos&eacute; Sanchez; Francisco Guerrero, who was afterward alcalde and sub-prefect; Tiburcio Vasquez, Do&ntilde;a Carmen Cibrian, Candelario Valencia, married to the daughter of Don Jos&eacute; Sanchez; Jesus Valencia, married to another daughter of Sanchez; Don Jesus Noe. The residence of Don Jos&eacute; Sanchez was at Buri Buri, which place he owned. It contained 8000 head of cattle and a great many horses and mares. His sons, who lived there also, were Jos&eacute; La Cruz, Francisco, Manuel, Chino and Ysidro. Captain Juan Prado Mesa, who resided with his family at the Presidio, was in command of the military post there. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the Rancho Pinole, near Martinez, resided Teniente Ygnacio Martinez, with his family. At the Rancho San Pablo, Don Joaquin Castro, with his mother, Do&ntilde;a Gabriella Berreyesa de Castro, and his brothers, Antonio, Gabriel, Victor and Jesus Maria. At Temescal were Don Domingo Peralta and Vicente Peralta. At San Antonio, Ygnacio Peralta and his family, and Antonio Maria Peralta and his family. At the Rancho San Leandro resided Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Estudillo and family. At the Rancho San Lorenzo, Guillermo Castro and family. At the Mission of San Jos&eacute;, Jos&eacute; Jesus Vallejo, brother of General Vallejo, who was then administrator of that Mission, which retained some of its former wealth. At Milpitas resided Don Jos&eacute; Cris&oacute;stomo Galindo and family; James Alexander Forbes, who was married to a daughter of the latter, and was then acting as British vice-consul, a native of Scotland. He was a thorough Spanish scholar. There were also Jos&eacute; Maria Alviso (chico) and family. At Agua Caliente was Don Fulgencio Higuera and family. At the Pueblo San Jos&eacute;, Don Antonio Su&ntilde;ol, a native of Spain, a merchant; the Bernal families; Don Antonio Maria Pico and family; Don Luis Peralta, the father of those before mentioned, with his daughters, he being then nearly a hundred years old. He was a native of Sonora, and had emigrated to this part of the country when a boy. At Santa Clara were Do&ntilde;a Soledad Ortega Argello, widow of Don Luis Argello, one of the early governors of the department <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>At these different places there were many others, mostly foreigners, engaged in commercial pursuits. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At Sonoma were General M. G. Vallejo and family, he being commander-in-chief of the forces of the department. His military headquarters were at that place. He owned the Rancho Petaluma, with thousands of cattle and horses. The Rancho Suscol was a national ranch under his control, heavily stocked with cattle and horses. At Sonoma, also, was Salvador Vallejo, brother of the general, who owned a large ranch in Napa Valley, with thousands of cattle and horses. Nicolas Higuera lived at Napa, and was engaged raising stock; so were Cayetano Juarez and Don Joaquin Pi&ntilde;a and family. At Santa Rosa resided Do&ntilde;a Maria Ygnacia Lopez de Carrillo, with her beautiful daughters, Juana and Felicidad. Mrs. Carrillo was the grandmother of ex-governor Romualdo Pacheco and mother-in-law of General Vallejo. At San Rafael were Timothy Murphy, Ygnacio Pacheco and family, and Domingo Sais. At Read's Ranch was John Read, who married the daughter of Don Jos&eacute; Sanchez, with his family. At Saucelito were Captain William A. Richardson and family. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION OF FOUNDING OF MISSION SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Centennial Celebration on Sunday, October 8, 1876, of the founding of the Presidio of San Francisco and the Mission Dolores, may be truly described as a memorable event in the annals of the commercial metropolis of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I am indebted to Mr. P. J. Thomas, the compiler and publisher of a valuable work upon the founding of the Mission of San Francisco de Asis, and historical reminiscences of other Missions of California, and which includes an account of the procession and the religious and civic exercises held at the celebration of the foundation of the above Mission in its hundredth year--for the privilege of incorporating in this volume two very interesting addresses delivered on that occasion. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the Mechanics' Pavilion at least eleven thousand persons were assembled. Among other prominent citizens, the Governor of the State; His Grace, the Most Reverend Archbishop Alemany; the Mayor of City and County of San Francisco; Hon. John W. Dwinelle and General M. G. Vallejo, orators of the day; the Collector of the Port of San Francisco; Consuls from foreign countries; Col. Peter Donahue and Gustave Touchard, were present. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Spanish, Mexican and South American elements were largely represented in the immense throng, which was graced by the presence of many members of the clergy of the Province. </P>
025.sgm:<P>At the Old Mission grounds on the corner of Sixteenth and Dolores streets, the celebration was inaugurated with the solemnity befitting so important an anniversary. The exercises commenced with a Grand Pontifical Mass at I 0 A. M. Beneath a tasteful gothic arch, adorned with ferns, ivy, clematis, and wreaths of flowers and tropical plants, the temporary altar was erected. The choir excellently rendered Beethoven's Mass in C, as well as the Offertory <HI REND="italics">Ave Maria</HI>
025.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of the Gospel, His Grace the Most Rev. Archbishop advanced from the altar to the front or the platform occupied by the choir, and stated that instead of the sermon promised by the Right Rev. Bishop Grace, of St. Paul, Minnesota, which would not be delivered, owing to the unexpected illness of that revered prelate, he would himself address <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>THE  ARCHBISHOP'S ADDRESS </P>
025.sgm:<P>DEARLY BELOVED: This is a day of joy and exultation, both to the citizens of San Francisco, and, in a certain sense, to those of the whole State of California, especially to the children of Christian light, for to-day we celebrate the Centennial of the Foundation of this Mission, and of this vast metropolis of the Pacific Coast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>If our illustrious nation has justly been celebrating with rejoicing the Centennial of its existence, and the other nations of the world have been admiring the gigantic steps with which our Republic has advanced in a hundred years towards every kind of progress, with equal right and joy we are solemnizing to-day the hundredth anniversary of the existence of San Francisco as a civil and religious community, because we are especially interested in the establishment and prosperous duration of its double edifice, the foundations of which were laid in this place by our forefathers a hundred years ago. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A Centennial may be likened to a prominent, elevated spot, on which the traveler loves to rest, not only to cast a glance at the distance gained, but also to view the balance of his journey, and pursue it with fresh vigor.  Thus, our Centennial affords us the pleasure of admiring the noble deeds of our ancestors, and the opportunity of encouraging ourselves to follow the course of a true civilization, and of our real and permanent interests.  Others may perhaps speak of the Presidio of San Francisco developing itself in these last years into a great capital; they may assign to it in the near future a prominent place among the cities distinguished not less for their wealth and magnificent edifices, than for their artistic and literary talent.  I will endeavor to limit my few words to religious recollections, inspired not only by the present festival and hallowed spot, but also by particular persons that have come to take part in the celebration; for we have in our midst the children of St. Ignatius, St. Francis and St. Dominic, the first Christian pioneers of both Californias, and we now occupy the same place occupied a Century ago by other ministers and other people, guided by the same end, and undertaking the same work which we now have on hand-the true happiness of man through the code of the Gospel. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The spiritual soldiers of Loyola had already amazed the kings of Castile and Aragon, when, few in number and with no other resources than their breviary and their apostolic charity, they conquered what the invincible Cort&eacute;z and the Spanish armadas had not been able to subdue.  By their charity and patience they had gained the hearts of the wild tribes of Lower California, and with arduous and apostolic labors they had established sixteen Missions in that peninsula. Sad human vicissitudes had already determined that the sons of St. Francis, and, soon after, those of St. Dominic, should succeed to the charge of these Missions; when a magnanimous heart, a great priest, a zealous apostle, desirous of the good of souls and of enriching them with the real treasures of Christian faith the Very Rev. Father Jun&iacute;pero Serra, President of the Franciscan Missionaries, willingly offered to come with his fellow-laborers to found establishments of religion and Christian beneficence in this, our California. This country had never before been inhabited by civilized man; no one could vouch for his safety in it; no one had known of its fertility and immense mineral treasures.  But it was known to them that in it there were souls created by the Almighty, redeemed by His divine Son, who, buried in the darkness of paganism, had never seen the rays of the Christian light; and this was enough to induce them to undertake the great sacrifice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>It is easy for us now to come and live in this land, already well known for the benignity of its climate, the fertility of its soil, its precious treasures, its magnificent edifices inhabitated by persons of cultivated manners; but who can sufficiently appreciate the greatness of the sacrifice of those Franciscan Missionaries, who, guided by the spirit of Padre Jun&iacute;pero, or rather by that of apostolic charity, came first to live in this unknown country, among a barbarous people, who might, perhaps, repay their heroic sacrifices with ingratitude or even a fatal arrow! Yet they knew that the Son of God had not promised his Apostles any other reward in this world than that of being allowed to drink of the chalice of His passion for the benefit of man. Animated with such apostolic sentiments, those religious men came to our California, and having established the Mission of San Diego in 1769, and that of Monterey in 1770, they turned their attention to the foundation of the Mission of San Francisco. </P>
025.sgm:<P>And here I may mention the curious fact that the beautiful bay of San Francisco was singularly discovered by land, under the auspicious exploits of the missionaries; for it had ever remained veiled to all European eyes, notwithstanding the various vessels which had periodically passed in front of the Golden Gate.  Some had inclined to the opinion that Sir Francis Drake had entered our port toward the close of the sixteenth century; but it is generally held as correct, what Humboldt and DeMofras assert, that the port visited by Drake was that of Bodega, or the one bearing his name around La Punta de los Reyes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The first Europeans that ever saw our magnificent bay were those who composed the missionary expedition which came overland from San Diego, about the middle of July, 1769, to examine the already known port of Monterey; during which it happened that after the exploring party had passed the place now known as La Soledad, instead of turning west to their left, in the direction of Monterey, they continued their journey northwest, until they found themselves in full view of the bay of San Francisco. </P>
025.sgm:<P>But the Mission of San Francisco was not founded until the 8th day of October, 1776.  Three weeks before--namely, the 17th of the preceding September--the Presidio of this place had been founded with the usual formalities; and, according to the wishes and instructions of the Viceroy of Mexico, the Missionary Fathers, accompanied by the civil authorities of the Presidio, performed the memorable work of the foundation of the Mission with all possible solemnity and formality; the account of which is given us by the faithful historian and eye-witness of the ceremony, Rev. Father Pal&oacute;u, in the following words: </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Being left alone with the three young men, the work of cutting timber was commenced in order to begin the construction of the chapel and houses in which to live. On the arrival of the vessel we had sufficient timber, and with the help of some sailors furnished by Captain Quiros, in a short time a house was built thirty feet long and fifteen wide, all of plastered wood, with its roof of tule, and, adjoining it, of the same materials, a church was built fifty-two feet long, with a room for the sacristy behind the altar; and it was adorned in the best way possible with various kinds of drapery, and with the banners and pennants of the vessel.  On the 8th of said month, the Lieutenant having arrived the evening before, the foundation took place, at which assisted the gentlemen of the vessel, with all the crew (except those necessary to guard the vessel), as well as the commander of the Presidio, with all the soldiers and people, retaining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Thus, a hundred years ago, on this spot, with solemn Mass and festive procession, with holy blessings and the Te Deum, the standard of the Cross was elevated, the law of the Gospel was proclaimed, the work of conversion and civilization of the gentiles was solemnly inaugurated. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I should now beg leave to examine the means adopted by our forefathers to accomplish the noble object which they proposed to themselves, or rather the general system and special laws enacted and executed by our Christian ancestors, for the Christian civilization--the temporal and eternal welfare of the Indians. In order to have an affair of such magnitude duly attended to, the Spanish crown had constantly attached to its court a royal Council, composed of men distinguished for their wisdom, prudence and rectitude. This Council was especially devoted to the welfare of the Indians; and to that end it was guided by a special provision in the last will and testament of Queen Isabella "the Catholic, which deserves to be written in letters of gold. In that order she declares that, in taking possession of the islands and lands of the ocean, her principal intention was "to endeavor to induce and bring the inhabitants thereof and to convert them to our Holy Catholic faith, and to send to said islands and continent prelates and <HI REND="italics">religious</HI>
025.sgm:<P>It is not possible that Blackstone, the celebrated English jurist, in laying down the laws of equity which should guide princes in their conquests of American countries and peoples, may have studied them in the testament of Isabella; yet, no doubt, he was guided by the principles of right embodied in the ancient digests of Christian jurisprudence, when he established the maxim, that "European princes, or their subjects, by coming to occupy the soil of the gentile natives, did not thereby become the owners of their lands, and that if the object of bringing them to Christian civilization gave them some right, this was not that of seizing their lands, but that of buying them first with preference to others." </P>
025.sgm:<P>This is the principle which prevails throughout the code of the <HI REND="italics">Recopilacion de Leyes de Indias</HI>
025.sgm:<P>"We ordain that the sale, benefice and composition of lands be made in a manner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>And in order that the Indians might be better protected in their rights to lands, and might not easily lose them by selling them without dose reflection, it was prescribed that they could not sell their lands except before a magistrate; and that even after the sale they might rescind the contract within thirty days and retain their lands, if they wished; and that if the lands of the Indians had been occupied by others, even for the space of nine years, they should he restored to them.  It is also decreed that the settlers be not allowed to establish themselves near the lands of the Indians, or to have near them cattle which may injure their crops; and should this injury accidentally occur, the Indians must be fully compensated, besides their perfect liberty to kill any cattle doing them any injury. </P>
025.sgm:<P>And although it was deemed necessary for the civilization and welfare of the Indians to induce them to form towns while cultivating their lands, having in them their church and instruction, and their own magistrates, the statutes provide that besides their houses and gardens in the towns, they should retain their right to other lands belonging to them; and that when they would change domicile, and would freely move to other places of their own will, the authorities should not prevent them. but should allow them to live and remain in them, it being at the same time forbidden to force them to move from one place to another.  In their towns they were to be induced to practice some trades, business or employment suitable to them, particularly agriculture; and in order that they should not he molested, it was rigorously forbidden to the Spaniards to dwell in their towns; and in a special manner it was also forbidden to All or give them wine, arms, or anything which might injure them or bring them to trouble. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It is also worth considering what such a code enacts in regard to their wars.  Instead of keeping them in subjection with rigor, or punishing them with severity in their rebellious commotion, we find that the Emperor Charles V. enjoins on all viceroys, judges and governors, that if any Indians would rise in rebellion, they ought to strike to reduce them and to attract them to the royal service with mildness and peace, without war, theft or deaths; and that they must observe the laws given by him for the good government of the Indians, and good treatment of the natives granting them some liberties if necessary, and forgiving them the crimes of rebellion committed by them, even if they were against His Imperial Majesty and royal service.  And should they be the aggressors, and being armed, should they commence to make war on the peaceable settlers and their towns, even then the necessary intimations should be made to them once, twice and three times, and more, if necessary. until they be brought to the desired peace. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The same code contains many enactments regarding the good treatment of the Indians; for instance, it recommends to all the authorities, and even to the viceroys, the care of providing for them, and of issuing the necessary orders that they be protected. favored, and overlooked in their failings, in order that they may live unmolested and undisturbed, seeing to the severe punishment of the transgressors molesting them.  It especially charges the Attorneys-General to watch particularly over the observance of the laws enacted for their instruction, protection, good treatment and prosperity, while it is provided that they may have in their towns their own mayor and supervisors, elected by themselves, and that an official, high in dignity, should visit. among others, the towns of the Indians at least every three years, and see that they be not ill-treated in anything. Finally, for their greater protection, it was decreed by the king that there be protectors <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Consequently, there can be no doubt that this precious code of the <HI REND="italics">Recopilacion</HI>
025.sgm:<P>And, when the natives were oppressed, there were not wanting some Las Casas, who bravely espoused the cause of the oppressed, frequently crossed the Atlantic to acquaint the Crown with the real evils, made the halls of kings ring with their loud and eloquent appeals in behalf of the Indians, secured just measures, and obtained visitors and protectors to examine and redress the wrongs. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It was, no doubt, due to such measures and vigilance that the Indians were not only preserved, but frequently advanced to a comparatively good state of civilization. One of the latest writers on Our Continent, Mr. Charles Mackay, observes that "in Mexico and South America they still thrive." "They," says Sothern, "enjoyed for many generations a greater exemption from physical and moral evil than any other inhabitants of the globe." "We were exceedingly struck," says Stephens, on the descendants of the Caribs, "with the great progress made in civilization by these descendants of cannibals, the fiercest of all Indian tribes." Throughout South America, millions of the natives have been preserved and considerably advanced to the knowledge and manners of Christian civilization, under the influence of good laws and Christian instructors, while nine-tenths of the people of Mexico have been similarly benefited. </P>
025.sgm:<P>But to return to our California and our Missions. It is pleasing to find in their fresh records that, within a very short time, many missionary establishments were erected, and thrived, each being directed by two Franciscan Fathers, under whom numerous tribes of Indians were daily instructed in the lessons of Christianity; some easy trades were practiced, large tracts of land were tilled, luxurious orchards and vineyards gladdened the Country; and the whole coast, from Sonoma to San Diego, was alive with countless herds of cattle of every description. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There were then no hotels in the country; each Mission was situated some forty miles from the nearest one, and afforded hospitable entertainment to travelers, who could go with perfect safety from one end of the country to the other. The twenty-one Missions were so many patriarchal settlements or communities of Indians, each ranging from 1500 to 2500, each individual working for all, all working for each, and all enjoying peace and plenty. In 1834, the crops of the twenty-one Missions came up to 122,500 bushels of grain, while the head of horned cattle belonging to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>Well may California be proud of her heroic, disinterested Christian pioneers, who in a short time transformed numberless barbarous tribes into comparatively well-civilized Christian communities; and well may we echo to-day with sweet strains of joyous melody the solemn <HI REND="italics">Te Deum</HI>
025.sgm:<P>In conclusion, let me pray that the mission of the Franciscans--the establishing of Christianity in this country--may ever prove successful, and that our prosperous city may ever be favored with God's choicest benedictions, which will be the case if its citizens will be guided by the Christian counsels inaugurated here a century ago. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Christian principles will insure peace and happiness, and good moral Christian lives will keep the state of society in a sound and prosperous condition. The code of the Gospel is the code of the sovereign legislator, who has an absolute right to enforce it, who demands our humble submission to it, and who has declared that on our compliance with its provisions depends our happiness, temporal and eternal. It is obvious that we shall not witness the next Centennial here; but I hope and pray that we may see it from on high, celebrated here again with Christian spirit and becoming solemnity.  At the conclusion of Mr. Dwinelle's oration, at the Pavilion, General Vallejo addressed the assemblage in the Spanish language, of which the subjoined is a translation: </P>
025.sgm:<P>GENERAL M. G. VALLEJO'S ORATION </P>
025.sgm:<P>Honored by the cordial invitation tendered me by the Board of Directors of the present celebration, through the most Reverend Archbishop Alemany, I present myself before you for the purpose of narrating, in a few but significant words, the history of the discovery, occupation and foundation of this Mission of our holy Father, San Francisco de Asis, a name which it has borne with dignity since the time it was so called by the indefatigable missionary, Father-President Jun&iacute;pero Serra and companions, in respect and veneration for the founder of their Seraphic Order. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Would that I were possessed of the necessary ability to do justice to the merits of those men, to whom is due the civilization of so many thousands of souls, and of numberless others that will succeed them. But, if my incapacity is great, my ardent desire to comply with the duty which has been imposed upon me, and which I have gladly accepted, is still greater. I only wish to ask your kind indulgence. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I shall be as brief in my discourse as a subject of such great magnitude as this will permit. Before, however, entering into the particulars of our present subject matter, I may be permitted to give a condensed synopsis of the events by which this port of San Francisco came into the possession of the Crown of Spain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the years 1542 and 1543 the navigator Cabrillo sailed up and down the coast, and passed San Francisco without having determined anything but the formation of the coast line. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1578, Sir Francis Drake, an English buccaneer, anchored and remained a month, perhaps, in the small bay on the northern extremity of the ocean or open bay of the Farallones, at the same place which was called by us the port of Tomales. Drake gave <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>It is an absurdity to suppose that there can be any connection between Sir Francis Drake and San Francisco, except in the imagination of some visionary geographer. Very little is known concerning the voyage; but the wreck of the "San Agustin" was afterward brought by the currents into the port of San Francisco (the Golden Gate), and as far as Yerba Buena, at Clark's Point, where I was shown fragments of the same about two hundred years after (1830), by the veteran officer Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Sanchez. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1603, the Admiral Sebastian Vizcaino, having on board of his flag-ship one of the pilots of the "San Agustin," sailed up and down the coast, stopping, without landing in the bay of San Francisco (not the present one), which was that of Tomales, near Point Reyes. Vizcaino took very extensive and correct geographical observations; but the only copy of his chart in existence is made on such a small scale that very little information can be derived from it concerning this portion of the coast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In subsequent years several vessels from the Philippine Islands came down the coast on their way to Acapulco; no mention, however, is made that any of them ever touched at any point on the coast of California, although it is certain that from the voyages in question we have notes concerning its coast. By some data obtained there-from, and particularly from the observations of Vizcaino, the first pilot of the Philippines, Don Jos&eacute; Gonzales Cabrera Bueno, made several sea charts which, together with a theoretical Treatise on Navigation, was published in Manila in the year 1734. This work gives a description of the coast from Point Reyes to Point Pinos with the same degree of accuracy as can be given in the present day, with the exception of what appertains to the Golden Gate and the unknown interior of the bay of San Francisco. In it there is described perfectly the ancient bay of the same name, near Point Reyes, as the present one was not known at that time, and not discovered until thirty-five years later. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the 31st of October, 1769, the expedition from San Diego was the first that made explorations in California overland. In it came Portola, Rivera y Moncada, Fages and Father Cresp&iacute;. They ascended the hills now called Point San Pedro (county of San Mateo),from whence they saw the bay of the Farallones, which extends from Point San Pedro to Point Reyes; and they also noticed Cabrera Bueno's bay of San Francisco, and the Farallones. On the 1st of November they sent a party to Point Reyes. On the 2d of the same month several hunters of the expedition ascended the high mountains more toward the east; and, although we have no correct information as to the names of those hunters, it is certain that they were the first white inhabitants who saw the large arm of the sea known at present as the bay of San Francisco. The portion that was seen by them was that which lies between the San Bruno mountains and the estuary or creek of San Antonio (Oakland). They discovered the bay, unless the honor is accorded to the exploring party that returned on the 3d of November, who also had discovered the branch of the sea, by which they were prevented from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The next exploration had in that direction was made by Pedro Fages and Father Crespi, in the month of March, 1772, from Monterey; and was with the view of going around the arm of the sea reaching Point Reyes, and arriving at the bay of San Francisco of the first navigators. For greater accuracy in the description I am about to make, I ask permission to use the names by which the places through which they passed are known at the present day. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fages and Father Cresp&iacute; started escorted by a guard of soldiers of the company of volunteers of Catalu&ntilde;a, and another from that of the "Cuero," or Leather coats. They arrived at Salinas river (to which they gave the name of Santa Delfina), crossed it, and, passing by the site upon which is now located Salinas City, they went over the hills and arrived at the place where the town of San Juan de Castro now stands. They continued their journey through the valley known to-day as the San Felipe, in the immediate vicinity of Hollister. After this they crossed the Carnedero creek (known at present as Gilroy), ascended and crossed the small hills of Linares (Lomita de la Linares) and the dry lake known as the rancho of Juan Alvires; went over the gap of Santa Teresa, and entered the valley of Santa Clara, where are situated the cities of San Jos&eacute; and Santa Clara, only separated from each other by the Guadalupe river. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Here," said Father Cresp&iacute;, "is a magnificent place to found a Mission, because it possesses all the necessary resources: abundance of good lands, water, and timber, and a great many gentiles to baptize." Thence they continued along the eastern shores of the bay, arrived at Alameda creek (Alvarado City, Vallejo's Mills and Centerville), followed along the bay towards the north, crossed San Lorenzo creek (Haywards), thence to San Leandro, Oakland, San Pablo, El Pinole, Martinez, Pacheco, Suisun bay, and crossed the San Joaquin river at a point not far distant from Antioch. This was on the 30th of March. </P>
025.sgm:<P>As the expedition did not possess the means of surmounting such obstacles as it met and reaching Point Reyes, which was its objective point, it was determined to return to Monterey by a different route-that is, along the foot-hills of Mount Diablo. The President of the Missions having become fully convinced of the impossibility of establishing that of San Francisco immediately at its own port, as he lacked the means of transportation by sea, and in order to proceed by land, additional exploring parties were deemed necessary. He reported the failure of the expedition of Fages to the Viceroy of New Spain. The viceroy gave orders to Captain Don Fernando Rivera y Moncada, who had been appointed successor to Fages in command of the military posts (presidios) of New California, to make a second examination, for the purpose of discovering the most appropriate localities for the foundation of the Missions in project. At the same time, in his letters of the 25th of May, he calls upon Father Jun&iacute;pero to aid and assist the new commander and to occupy and establish Missions in the most convenient and suitable places. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Accordingly, having made the necessary preparations, Captain Rivera started from Monterey on the 23d of November, 1774, accompanied by Father Francisco Pal&oacute;u, an escort of sixteen soldiers, and some servants.  They prosecuted their journey without having encountered any drawback as far as the valley of Santa Clara; but from there they went to the west of the bay between its shores and the adjacent hills.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>That cross I saw myself, in the year 1829, having come to San Francisco on business pertaining to the military service. No location was at that time made either for a garrison (presidio) or Mission, as the severity of the winter months compelled the expedition to return to winter quarters at Monterey; and they verified it by going over the route that was taken by the expedition of 1769, which was by San Pedro, and Spanishtown (Half Moon bay), in the county of San Mateo, Point New Year, Santa Cruz City, Watsonville in Santa Cruz county, Pajaro City, Castroville, Salinas and Monterey, which had been their starting point. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the year 1775, during the months of August and September, Captain Ayala entered the bay of San Francisco, on board the packetboat "San Carlos," this being the first historically authenticated vessel that sailed into that bay. He remained forty days and explored it in all directions. Captain Ezeta and Father Pal&oacute;u came up from Monterey as far as the place where Rivera and the same missionary Father had planted the mentioned cross, but they did not find the crew of the "San Carlos." </P>
025.sgm:<P>The next attempt to found a religious and military establishment at San Francisco proved successful. The Lieutenant-Colonel, Don Juan Bautista de Anza, by orders from the Viceroy, Fra Don Antonio Marie Bucarelli y Urs&uacute;a, recruited soldiers and settlers (pobladores) in Sinaloa and gave them all the aid possible to facilitate their journey to their new homes in Upper California. Being all assembled at San Miguel de Orcasitas (Sonora), they started upon their march on the 29th of September, 1775, by way of the Colorado river, which had already been explored by the same Anza in another expedition. The colony was composed of thirty married soldiers and twelve families of settlers, which, together, formed a total of two hundred souls, who were to found and establish the new town. Before the departure of this expedition by land in March, 1775, one ship and two packet-boats sailed for San Blas, taking on board provisions and effects for the Missions and presidios. Providence favored the three vessels, which were successful in their operations. On the 4th of January, 1776, Lieutenant-Colonel Anza arrived at the Mission of San Gabriel with his expedition. Urgent business concerning the security of the establishments in Southern California detained him there. By the 12th of March he had already reached the Mission of El Carmelo, accompanied by the chaplain, Father Pedro Font, and his escort. On the 22nd of March he set out on a journey to examine the region of country of this port of San Francisco, and arrived at the place where Father Pal&oacute;u, in accord with Captain Rivera, had planted the cross in December, 1774. Having examined the locality well, Anza and the Lieutenant-Colonel Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Moraga decided that a garrison (presidio) should be founded there, and that this subordinate officer should be the one to carry the project into execution. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The expedition continued on their journey; and, according to Father Pal&oacute;u, upon arriving at the bay, which was called "Las Lloronas" (the primitive name of Mission <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>On the 17th of June, 1776, the expedition of soldiers and families from So&ntilde;ora started for Monterey. The Military force was commanded by Lieutenant Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Moraga; it was composed of one sergeant, two corporals and ten or twelve soldiers, with their wives and children. There were also, in the party, seven families of resident settlers, five servants, muleteers and vaqueros (stock herders), who took care of 200 head of cattle belonging to the king and private individuals. This is concerning the new garrison. In what appertains to the Mission, I will say that there were Fathers Francisco Pal&oacute;u and Pedro Benito Cambon, two servants and three neophyte Indians, one of whom was from the Mission of San Carlos, and the two others from Old California, these having 86 head of cattle in their charge. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The expedition took the same route as that of 1774, and arrived safely on the 27th of the same month at the Lake of Dolores, where it had to wait for the packet boat "San Carlos," to determine upon the location of the garrison and fort. Meantime, it occupied itself in exploring the surrounding country. On the 28th, the Lieutenant ordered an enramada, a hut made of branches of trees, to be made, which might serve as a chapel for the purpose of celebrating mass; and it Was in it that the first mass was said on the 29th, which was the feast of the glorious apostles Saints Peter and Paul. The Fathers continued celebrating in the same "Enramada" every day until the garrison (presidio) was established near the landing place, where good water could be obtained and the land was appropriate. I said good water, as subsequent experience proves it to be excellent and possessing some marvelous qualities. In proof of my assertion, I appeal to the testimony of the families of Miramontes, Martinez, Sanchez, Soto, Briones and others, all of whom had wives that bore twins upon several instances; and public opinion attributes, not without reason, these wholesome results to the virtues of the waters of the "Polin," which still exists. The exploration party remained a whole month encamped awaiting the arrival of the ship, during which time the soldiers and settlers were busy cutting timber in order to gain time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The month having expired without the packet boat making its appearance, the commander, Moraga, determined to make over to the spot which he had in the course of his explorations selected as more appropriate for the new garrison (presidio).  This he did on the 26th of July, and all hands went to work and made barracks out of "Tule," which might serve them as places of shelter. The first barrack that was built was dedicated to serve as a chapel, and the first mass was celebrated by Father Pal&oacute;u on the 28th. But, by order of Lieutenant Moraga, there remained near the lake de los Dolores the two missionary priests and servants, with the stock and everything else appertaining to the Mission-all under the immediate protection of six soldiers. The Fathers occupied themselves in building houses, the soldiers of the guard and one resident settler assisting in the work.  This was the reason why the Reverend Father Pal&oacute;u certified on the first page of the primitive Books of Baptisms, Marriages and Deaths, that the Mission had been founded on the first day of August, 1776. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I beg leave to be permitted here to mention (because it has some connection with part of our history) that during the month of August Father Pal&oacute;u administered, on the loth day, the waters of Baptism, <HI REND="italics">ad instantem mortem</HI>
025.sgm:, to a child a few days old, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The long looked for "San Carlos" entered the port of San Francisco and anchored at twelve o'clock A. M. on the 18th of August, opposite the encampment where the garrison had to be erected. Captain Quiros, his pilots and the chaplain (Father Nocedal) went immediately on shore. After the customary salutation had passed, they inspected the land selected by Moraga for a garrison, as well as that of the Mission, and it was agreed that both places were suitable for the purposes to which they had been destined. According to the very words used by the Rev. Father Pal&oacute;u, in his diary of the expedition, which reads: "About the middle of September, 1776, the soldiers had already built their wooden houses, all duly roofed; the Lieutenant had his royal house, and a warehouse made of the same material had been completed of sufficient capacity to contain all the supplies that the vessel had brought. It was immediately decided that the festival should be celebrated with a solemn procession, fixing upon the day as that of the 17th of September, the same on which Our Mother the Church celebrates the memory of the Impression of the Wounds of our Seraphic Father Saint Francis. The day could not have been more appropriate, as it was that of the Patron Saint of the Port, of the new garison (presidio), and of the Mission. And for taking possession of the Mission was fixed the 4th day of October, which is the very day of our Seraphic Father, Saint Francis." </P>
025.sgm:<P>The ceremony of the solemn procession and foundation of the Mission took place on the 4th of October.  The Lieutenant, Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Moraga and his soldiers, Don Fernando Quiros, commander of the packet boat, his two pilots, the major part of his crew, and, lastly, the never-forgotten Father Pal&oacute;u, Thomas de la Pe&ntilde;a, Cambon and Nocedal were present. I will quote from Father Pal&oacute;u again: "A solemn mass was sung by the Fathers; the ceremony of the formal possession was made by the royal officers, and when it had been completed all went into the church and sang a <HI REND="italics">Te Deum Laudamus</HI>
025.sgm:<P>It is not only the diary of Father Pal&oacute;u that serves me as authority to fix upon with exactness the day of the possession and foundation respectively of the garrison and Mission. These data I had obtained a long time before I had seen and read the said diary from the lips of the same military men and settlers who were eye-witnesses to those ceremonies; that is to say, from Lieutenant Moraga, from my father, Don Ygnacio Vallejo, Don Marcos Briones, Galindo, Castro, Pacheco, Bojorques, Bernal, Higuera, Peralta, Am&eacute;zquita, Franco Flores, Hernandez, Mesa and others whose names I do not here enumerate, as I do not wish to be too lengthy. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The temporary building of the church was situated at a distance of about one thousand varas to the northwest of the spot where the actual temple now stands. The lake of Dolores was at the time located and could be seen to the right of the road coming from the Presidio to the Mission between two hills, one of which still exists, the other one has disappeared before the progressive march of this rich emporium. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the 8th day of October of the mentioned year, 1776, the erection of the present temple of the Mission of San Francisco was commenced, and we to-day on this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>360</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Providence, which is infinitely wise and bountiful, has permitted that our venerable pastor should make mention of my father's being one of those brave men who aided and assisted the missionaries with his sword. Consequently, at the same time that I satisfy your desires, I comply with a duty very satisfactory to myself in being the exponent of events that transpired one hundred years ago, the date upon which commenced the life and existence of San Francisco, which we can with pride style the Queen City of the Pacific.  <HI REND="italics">Justit&aelig; soror fides</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Let us for a moment transport ourselves from this day to the former century, and let us compare the present gathering here to an assemblage of that epoch. The latter consisted of a handful of men who were brave Christians, armed to the teeth, and of another still smaller party of humble ministers of Christ, but gifted with wonderous fortitude and a firm determination that nothing could change or oppose, as they had come to preach the Word of God and were resigned to take upon themselves the crown of martyrdom. Both of these parties were liable to become at any moment the victims of a rude crowd of naked savage gentiles, some of whom had come to them at first through curiosity, others prompted by a spirit of destruction, and all of them to obtain the presents which were given to them for the purpose of alluring them and inspiring them with confidence and have them hear for the first time the words of the Gospel. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The audience whom I have the honor to address on this occasion is a true representative of the high culture and advanced civilization of the nineteenth century, enjoying all the security and privileges which that state of society guarantees to them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>What a vast difference, gentlemen, between what was, and what we see to-day, in this centennial which we celebrate! Let us bear in mind that in the course only of one hundred years, this privileged place has taken a gigantic stride and fallen into the hands of a society worthy of prosecuting the work that was begun by those true Pioneers. The Mission of San Francisco, which at one time was situated on a desert, yet protected by the hand of Providence, to-day may be seen nearly in the centre of this populous city of the same name. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The foundation of the Mission and military post (Presidio) having been completed, the packet-boat sailed on the 21st, for San Blas. During its stay in the port the commander (Quir&oacute;s) had lent all the aid possible to the Mission in getting a carpenter and some sailors help in the construction of doors and windows for the church and house of the missionary Fathers, also in the building of the altar, as well as in many other things. Not satisfied with all this, Captain Quir&oacute;s left four of his crew to work <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>I remember this, together with other things, that I heard in my youth from the eye-witness of these transactions.  Among them I should mention the boatswain of the packet-boat known by everybody as Neustramo Pepe. This brave man, who was a Catalonian by birth, had a heart as sensitive as a woman's. He visited my father's house at Monterey a great many times in after years, and in conversation had with our family he often related the fact of the foundation of the Post and Mission of San Francisco, where he had worked with an energy worthy of all praise. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A great many times and on several occasions he said to my father, shedding tears: "Do you remember, Don Ygnacio, our farewell on board the packet-boat when Captain Quiros gave the banquet to the officers and priests? Do you recollect how afterwards the military and naval officers, with the priests, who were assembled at the landing place on the beach, embraced one another and shook hands? Do you remember that from there, after we weighed anchor, all the military men and the priests went towards the strip of land that projects out and forms the southern cape of the Port (where now stands the fortification), and while they were there they waved their handkerchiefs and their hats to us as we passed, kindly bidding us a last adieu? What a solemn day was that, my friend! Do you remember how the currents dragged our vessel towards the opposite shores of the harbor; and how we were there exposed to great danger, until a favorable breeze came up from the northwest, and saved us from being dashed against the cliffs of rocks? Yet, in the midst of that tribulation, and such despair, we left in sorrow for you who remained exposed, and at the mercy of so many barbarians. Why, man, even Quir&oacute;s shed tears!" </P>
025.sgm:<P>Before leaving our friend, Neustramo Pepe, it is very gratifying to me to mention that his popularity among our people was so great, than no sooner would there be news of the arrival of some ship on the coast--that is, at San Diego or some other inhabited place--than every one would inquire whether Nuestramo Pepe had come; and if he was there he would be received with enthusiastic hurrahs and cries of acclamation by all the people present. </P>
025.sgm:<P>We already have our apostolic men engaged in the great work of the redemption of thousands of gentiles to whom God had opened the way to heaven. It seems to me that I see those intrepid men (ministers of the altar and warriors of shield and sword), in these regions, surrounded by a ferocious and barbarous people whom they had to conquer for God and their sovereign. Combining the two expedients, which affects the human heart most? The main object which both priests and soldiers had in view had to be attained. " <HI REND="italics">Suaviter in niodo fortiter in re</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The assiduity of the missionaries never relaxed before the numerous obstacles daily thrown in their way. With the meekness of true Apostles, they succeeded in getting the barbarians to present themselves voluntarily to receive the waters of baptism. By holy abnegation, the example of their virtues, and of their constancy, they gained the confidence of a considerable number of catechumens who gradually began to draw near. </P>
025.sgm:<P>It is a fact known by all the Californians, old as well as new, that whole tribes from the surroundings of the bay came to accept a religious faith, which, till then, had been wholly unknown to them; but, for all that, there were some turbulent, wicked ones who from the commencement had been opposed to the advance or progress of the <HI REND="italics">foreigners</HI>
025.sgm:, as they called the Spaniards in their own dialect. This feeling of animosity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>362</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:was made evident a few days later when the <HI REND="italics">Buri-buri</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The commanding sergeant of the guard, Juan Pablo Grijalva, caused one of those who had been hostile to be flogged, and this act enraged and alarmed the friends of the culprit. Two of them fired their arrows at the soldiers, but luckily did not do any harm.  On the following day the sergeant determined to chastise the audacity of those who had been turbulent, after which an encounter took place with them in which one of the residents was wounded who killed his antagonist with one shot, and his body fell into the estuary. The rest of the Indians fled, but went to some rocks from whence they continued their hostilities. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A shot well aimed by the sergeant struck one of the gentiles in the thigh, the ball going through and lodging in the rocks, from where it was taken by the Indians. The death of one and the wounding of another of the savages discouraged them to such a degree that they asked for peace, which the sergeant granted them. Nevertheless, the two Indians who had been the cause of the encounter were taken prisoners. The sergeant had them chastised severely, giving them to understand that if, in the future, they again manifested hostility they should forfeit their lives.  The unfortunate occurrence retarded somewhat the conversion of those gentiles for several months; but about the beginning of 1777 they could be seen about the Mission, and three of them were baptised on the 29th of June of that year. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the 6th of January, 1777, a party of armed soldiers, under the command of Lieutenant Moraga, with an escort, and Father Tomas Pe&ntilde;a, went from San Francisco to the place where the Mission of Santa Clara was founded; and another came later, accompanying Father Jos&eacute; Murguia, from San Carlos or the Carmelo, bringing provisions and supplies for that same place. Both priests were to remain in charge of the new establishment. Father Murgu&iacute;a, did not arrive until the 21st, but Father Pe&ntilde;a had already celebrated mass there on the 12th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The work of the missionaries continued without interruption on the part of the Indians. In 1778, the ship " Santiago," <HI REND="italics">alias</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Nothing worthy of mention occurred until the latter part of June, 1779, on which date the ship "Santiago" entered the port of San Francisco again with supplies and merchandise for the Mission and Presidio.  In the year 1780 the vessel "Santiago" did not visit the port of San Francisco, but left at Monterey one hundred fanegas (Spanishbushels) of corn and other merchandise, which it became necessary to transport by land with very great difficulty. Worse was the fate not only of San Francisco, but of all the Missions and garrisons (Presidios) of Northern California in 1781, as no provisions or yearly supplies from the king arrived. This caused great inconvenience, and did considerable damage to the conquest. </P>
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025.sgm:<P>Our virtuous missionaries had in that year already reaped such abundant fruits from the vineyard which they were cultivating for our Lord Jesus Christ, that the Reverend Father-President Jun&iacute;pero Serra came to San Francisco, for the first time, and, exercising the powers with which he had been vested by the Holy See, administered the Sacrament of Confirmation to Sixty-nine neophytes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The following year of I 782 was also unfortunate on account of the great loss suffered by the Missions in the death of the old missionary Father, Friar Juan Cresp&iacute;. This venerable man and wise apostle had already counted thirty years of missionary life among the Indians, and came to New California in the expedition that founded the first establishment at San Diego, in the year I 769. In the next succeeding year he was present at the foundation of the Mission of San Carlos de Monterey. I have already related the active part which he took with the Commander Fages in trying to find a place suitable for the establishment of another Mission at the port of San Francisco. These eminent and invaluable services which he rendered entitle him to the highest position among the many worthy missionaries of his Seraphic Order. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the 13th of May, 1783, two vessels entered our ports with supplies and provisions for the presidios and Missions that had already been founded. Friar Pedro Benito Cambon, who had been absent on several occasions, was sent back to this Mission to accompany Father Pal&oacute;u. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the mentioned date, two other vessels arrived with more provisions and merchandise, bringing an auxiliary force of missionaries, composed of the Reverend Fathers, Friar Juan Antonio Garcia Rioboo and Friar Diego Noboa. Both of these clergymen remained in the Mission of San Francisco, and took part with the resident ministers in celebrating the feast of <HI REND="italics">Corpus Christi</HI>
025.sgm:<P>After this they were called away by the President and ordered to go to Monterey. The missionary Fathers, at the same time that they worked for the good of the soul, did not neglect material happiness. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When they had a pretty large congregation of converts under subjection, they dedicated them to works of industry. Besides the agricultural pursuits, from which the missionaries as well as the neophytes and catechumens were to receive their subsistence, adobes, bricks, tiles, etc., were made, and the construction of the holy temple was begun; granaries, residences, quarters and a guard-house for the soldiers, and lastly houses for those Indians who had been converted to Christianity, were built. It will be readily seen by this account that the most worthy Fathers were constantly employed in their spiritual as well as temporal labors; although the latter were always subordinate to the former. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In one of my journeys to San Francisco, during the year 1826, I found this Mission in all its splendor and state of preservation, consisting, at that time, of one church, the residence of the Reverend Fathers, granaries, warehouses for merchandise, guard-house for the soldiers, prison, an orchard of fruit trees and vegetable garden, cemetery, the entire rancheria (Indian village) all constructed of adobe houses with tile roofs-the whole laid out with great regularity, forming streets, and a tannery and soap factory-that is to say, on that portion which actually lies between Church, Dolores and Guerrero streets, from north to south, and between Fifteenth and Seventeenth streets, from east to west.  I think that the neophytes living in the Mission, in San Mateo, and in San Pedro reached six hundred souls. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the year 1830, I was directed by my superior officer to continue to serve at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>I recollect, with joy that on the 4th of October, 1830, while the Reverend Father Friar Tomas Estenega was minister of the Mission, and I was acting as adjutant of the garrison (presidio),the military commander was invited to take part with his officers in the celebration; consequently, all the soldiers were present that he who now addresses you had under his orders. Salutes were fired in front of the church and residence of the priests on that day in regular order.  There were also present at the celebration of the holy Patron Saint, the Reverend Fathers, Friar Jos&eacute; Viader of the Mission of Santa Clara, Friar Buenaventura Fortuni, of that of San Francisco Solano, and Friar Juan Amor&oacute;s, of that of San Rafael. During the mass the last priest mentioned officiated, while Fathers Viader and Fortuni acted as deacon and sub-deacon-Father Estenega (who was still young) being left in charge of the choir, music, etc. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A sermon was preached by Father Viader, relating to the festivity of the holy Patron, and to the foundation of the place on the 4th of October, 1776. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This was the last celebration at which four Spanish priests, from Spain, assisted with the same object as that had by the meritorious Pioneers, and the ministers Pal&oacute;u, Cambon, Pe&ntilde;a and Nocedal, on the 4th of October, 1776, <HI REND="italics">one hundred years ago</HI>
025.sgm:<P>Reverend Friar Jos&eacute; Viader was a man of refined manners; tall in stature, somewhat severe in his aspect, open and frank in his conversation.  He was as austere in religious matters as he was active in the management of the temporalities of the Mission of Santa Clara, which he always administered. He became remarkable, among other things, because the Rosary, which he carried fastened to the girdle of the Order around his waist, had a large crucifix attached to it. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Friar Fortuni was a holy man who was incessantly praying; he could always be seen in or out of the Mission with the Breviary in his hand, or reciting the Rosary in the church: he was very learned and affable in his intercourse with the people of those times; and was very humble, and, besides, a great apostle. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Friar Tomas Estenega was a young man of medium height, the personification of activity, of jovial disposition, select and varied in his conversation, an excellent and very sincere priest. He had seen a great deal of the war of the revolution in Spain, and was there during the French invasion, when Napoleon I. and his brother Joseph tried to appropriate to themselves that privileged land. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Friar Juan Amor&oacute;s was sanctity itself; and if I possessed the eloquence of the great orators, I would consume more time in depicting the brilliant qualities which adorned that venerable missionary.  But not having those talents I shall limit my remarks, and say that Father Amor&oacute;s was a model of virtue, charity, humility, and of Christian meekness-a man without a blemish, of a candid heart, and of most exemplary life; he was the admiration of his contemporaries and the astonishment of the tribes of the aborigines. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When I was a child, nearly seventy years ago, I knew him at the Mission of San Carlos of Monterey as chaplain of the garrison of the same name. When he came to celebrate mass in the chapel of the soldiers on Sundays he always brought a few sweet figs, dates and raisins in the sleeves of his habit, which he distributed after mass to the boys of the Sunday school; but this he did after he had given instruction in Christian doctrine for half an hour. On the 14th of July, 1832, this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>365</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The register of his burial says that he was a native of the Province of Catalonia (Spain), born on the 10th of October, 1773; took the habit of Our Seraphic Father San Francisco on the 28th day of April, 1791; was admitted into the Order by making the necessary vows on the 30th of the same month of the following year, and was ordained priest in the month of December, 1797.  On the 4th of March, 1803, he left Catalonia to come to the college of San Fernando, in the City of Mexico, where he arrived on the 26th of July. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In 1804, animated by his great zeal for the conversion of the gentiles, with the blessing of his superiors, he came to the Missions of Upper California, where he arrived in the commencement of the year 1804, and was appointed as minister to the Mission of San Carlos, where he lived fifteen years, acting as resident apostolic minister.  From there, by permission of his superior, who was the Reverend Father Prefect Friar Mariano Payeras, he went to that of San Rafael, where he worked and labored with astonishing perseverance until his death.  He was buried in the Mission church on the 14th of July, at five o'clock in the afternoon.  I must remark that the Mission of San Rafael was for several years a branch of that of San Francisco, and always remained under the jurisdiction of this Presidio. l speak with so much feeling of kindness toward Father Amor&oacute;s, because I am cognizant of his great virtues, his pure heart and sincere devotion.  Moreover, it was with him that I made my first Confession; and from his holy hands I received for the first time the consecrated bread of the Eucharist. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I have already made mention of his moral gifts; it remains now for me only to describe his physical aspect; and I could not give you a more exact idea of him, nor draw a more perfect likeness from the original, than by calling attention to the person of a most esteemed ecclesiastic who is here present; his stature, manners, features, smile and amiable disposition all bring back to my memory the image of that holy man.  Neither Rulofson nor any other of our most skilled photographers could produce as perfect a picture of Father Amor&oacute;s than that which we have before us in the person of our venerable Archbishop, Joseph Sadoc Alemany.  And, at the same time, I feel highly pleased to say that it is not only in the physical qualities that I find a great resemblance in the two men. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I must observe here, that during the first years of the foundation, as the Indians of the Buri-buri tribe were not willing to live in this place on account of it being extremely cold, and destitute of those fine groves of trees which the hand of Providence was pleased to plant in the region which they occupied, and as the Indians from San Pedro were enjoying the benefits of their fertile lands, and hence opposed to come and live in a climate so different from that in which they were born, in order to remedy this inconvenience, and at the same time avail themselves of religious instruction, both tribes petitioned the Father ministers, asking to be allowed to live on their lands, obligating themselves to build chapels and to dedicate themselves to agricultural pursuits and other labors, all of which was done with great success. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The priests went every Saturday, accompanied by an escort, said mass, preached, and then returned to the mother church.  The ministers maintained for some time a chapel and storehouses for grain amongst the Juchiyunes, Acalnes, Bolgones, and Carquinez Indians, who occupied that portion of  Country known  as  Contra Costa.  The chapel was located in what is known to-day as the rancho of San Pablo, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>366</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The immense wealth of the Mission of San Francisco, was acquired from those three farms, and from its own lands, which were situated from Rincon Point to Hayes Valley (El Gentil), Divisadero, and the garrison (Presidio) to Point Lobos. These were recognized as its boundaries, from the time of the ancient founders; upon which grazed all its cattle, horses, sheep and hogs, and from which abundant crops of wheat, corn and beans were harvested. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The foundation of San Rafael was made on the 14th of December, 1817.  High Mass was celebrated by the Rev. Prefect, Father Vicente Francisco de Sarria, assisted by Fathers Luis Gil, Ramon Abella and Narciso Duran, with sermon and other ceremonies analogous to the occasion. Father Sarria baptised four little Indians, and called them respectively by the names of Rafael, Miguel and Gabriel (in honor of the three Archangels), and the fourth by his own name, Vicente Francisco.  Father Luis Gil de Taboda remained as resident priest there. </P>
025.sgm:<P>This Mission was the fourth daughter of that of San Francisco; the first having been that of Santa Clara, as I have already said, the second that of Santa Cruz, which was founded on the 29th of August, 1791, and the third was that of San Jos&eacute;, founded on the 11th of June, 1797. The last one was that of San Francisco Solano (Sonoma Valley), founded in 1823; abandoned soon after on account of the incursions of the Indians, and re-established in 1827, under the supervision of the virtuous Father Fortuni; but it was not rebuilt permanently until 1830. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Spanish successors of the worthy Fathers Pal&oacute;u and Cambon in this Mission were, if my memory serves me right, Friars Ramon Abella, Juan Lucio, Juan Cabot, Jos&eacute; Altimira and Tomas Estenega. I was personally acquainted with all of them, and I can testify to their being worthy ministers of God and indefatigable apostles. </P>
025.sgm:<P>And now, permit me to make a few remarks in defense of the good name of some of the individuals who governed this country during the Mexican Administration, whose reputation has been sometimes wantonly attacked; while nothing has ever been said against the governors, under Spain, who preceded them. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Much has been said, and even more has been written, concerning the Missions and their great wealth. And who are they that figure in that drama? Who are its authors? Are they, perchance, impartial men? or, to say the least, have they an accurate knowledge of the history of the Missions or this Upper California? No, no! gentlemen; they were foreign writers, interested parties, and consequently partial in their style; who, without reflection, hurriedly advanced, as undeniable fact, that which was false, all for the purpose of deluding the ignorant and of profiting by the utterance of base falsehoods, at the same time that they flattered their taste by censuring indirectly and unfairly the acts of the collectors of the Missions, styling them thieves, etc.  That the Missions were rich we all know.  But what were those riches?  This they do not tell us.  Nevertheless, these riches consisted in moveable stock and agricultural productions; but they make no mention of pecuniary wealth. </P>
025.sgm:<P>That the Mexican governors robbed the Missions is an absurdity.  The first Mexican governor, Don Luis A. Argello, a native of San Francisco, was decidedly a protector of the Missions and a friend to the missionaries.  He died poor, leaving his family no other patrimony than the small rancho of Las Pulgas, with a few head of stock. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The second governor, Don Jos&eacute; Maria de Echeand&iacute;a, exercised his authority in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>After having governed the country for five years, Echeand&iacute;a had great difficulty in collecting and getting together, by the aid of the priests of San Luis Rey and San Juan Capistrano, who were his friends, the sum of three thousand dollars which he needed to return to Mexico.  Don Manuel Victoria was the third governor, who, from his coming into power, gained the good will of the missIonaries and was always upon the best terms with them.  All the steps towards secularization which had been taken by his predecessor were annulled by Victoria, even before he was in possession of the government.  His official conduct was despotic, and he forced the Californians to send him out of the country, yet it would be an injustice to accuse him of having robbed either the country or the Missions.  The priests aided him pecuniarily, that he might be able to leave. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Jos&eacute; Figueroa, the fourth Mexican governor, was an educated and upright man.  He died poor at Monterey. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Castro, Gutierrez, Chico, Alvarado, Micheltorena, and, lastly, Pio Pico, all had to contend with revolutionary elements.  The priests had disappeared, the neophytes had left the Missions and gone away to the villages of the gentiles, and the government, under such circumstances, had to take possession of the lands which were claimed by the Missions, through the power which it possessed, and in order to defend the country against an <HI REND="italics">invasion with which it was threatened</HI>
025.sgm:<P>When the old missionaries saw that the political tornado was about to burst upon the Mission system, they commenced to convert into money all their movable property, such as cattle and stock.  In the Missions of San Gabriel, San Fernando, San Juan Capistrano and San Luis Rey, they killed by contract with private individuals, during the years 1830, 1831 and 1832, more than sixty thousand head of cattle, from which they only saved the hides.  The pecuniary wealth of the Missions in their primitive days, which were more productive, was sent out of the country to Spain, Mexico or Italy.  This I know; and presume, and even believe, that all of it arrived safely at its place of destination.  Be that as may, neither the governors nor the Californians ever partook of any of that wealth, with the exception of $20,000, which, upon an occasion of imperative necessity, we, the members of the Deputation, together with other prominent citizens, obtained from Father Jos&eacute; Sanchez of the Mission of San Gabriel, to facilitate the payment of the expenses of a military force destitute of everything at the time, thus avoiding the commission of greater evils. </P>
025.sgm:<P>During the lengthy period of the war of Independence, and even afterwards, the Missions supplied the troops of the "Cuera" (leather coats) with provisions and other effects, as no more yearly supplies had been sent from Mexico. </P>
025.sgm:<P>But it is necessary to bear in mind that the Spanish Rag waved over California, and that the priests did no more than comply with the orders of the king, at the same time that they looked for their own protection and that of the Missions, soldiers being constantly engaged in protecting the Missions, and in continuous campaigns for the purpose of keeping the Indians under subjection.  Without those soldiers, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
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025.sgm:<P>The missionaries from the College of our Lady of Guadalupe, Zacatecas, came from Mexico in the year 1832, and it was the lot of the Mission of San Francisco to have, as missionary Father, Jos&eacute; Marie Gutierrez, who continued here for some time.  After that, Fathers Lorenzo Quijas and Mercado had charge of it alternately. When this Mission was secularized, it was delivered over to several overseers (mayor-domos) who were appointed by the political government, until the Indian priest, Prudencio Santillan, took charge of it. This Reverend Father had been ordained <HI REND="italics">in sacris</HI>
025.sgm:<P>I have occupied the attention of this intelligent audience so long for the purpose of giving a detailed narration of the primitive history of the Presidio, Mission and Pueblo of San Francisco, which up to the year 1846, did not count a population any greater than that within this fine hall-a weak fortification, one or two officers, a company of soldiers and a handful of resident settlers in twenty-five or thirty houses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>What a change is presented to our view to-day!  A great city, which, having absorbed the three points mentioned, has filled the entire peninsula with a population of nearly three hundred thousand inhabitants, dedicated to all the arts known to the highest degree of civilization. The harbor and city, protected by strong fortifications and well-equipped ships of war, situated on the most advantageous position, it is destined to become the grand commercial center of India, China and Japan, at the same time that it will be such for the entire northern coast of the Pacific. What shall be the destiny which the Supreme Benefactor has prepared for this portion of our beautiful native land for the next coming hundred years?  I entertain the full conviction that the hand of the Great Creator, by which is guided the progress and happiness of mankind, will carry us to the highest degree of excellence in all the branches of knowledge. Then, it is to be hoped, that those who will celebrate that day taking a retrospective view of the present epoch, will remember with gratitude what this generation, by divine aid, has established for them, to carry on, until they reach moral, intellectual and physical perfection. </P>
025.sgm:<P>And let us from this moment send cordial salutations to our fortunate decendants who will see the brilliant dawn of the second Centennial of the Foundation of the Mission of San Francisco de Asis. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>369</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>FATHER GONZALEZ'S LETTER ON THE STATE OF THE MISSIONS IN THE 1830-40 DECADE </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the work entitled "Our Centennial Memoir," published by P. J. Thomas, of San Francisco, to which we have alluded elsewhere, is an interesting translation from a letter of the Venerable Father Gonzalez to Father Adam, of Santa Cruz. Describing the condition of the Missions and the losses they sustained through the oppressive acts of the Mexican Government, was written in September, 1864, from the Apostolic College of our Lady of Los Dolores, Santa Barbara. Father Gonzales was the last of the old pioneer missionaries who labored to plant the Cross in these golden regions. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"REV. AND DEAR SIR :-On my landing in this country, which happened on the 15th of January, 1833, there were in existence from San Diego up to San Francisco Solano 21 Missions, which provided for 14,000 or 15,000 Indians.  Even the poorest Missions, that of San Rafael and Soledad, provided everything for divine worship, and the maintenance of the Indians. The care of the neophytes was left to the missionary, who, not only a pastor, instructed them in their religion and administered the sacraments to them, but as a householder, provided for them, governed and instructed them in their social life, procuring for them peace and happiness. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Every Mission, rather than a town, was a large community, in which the missionary was President, distributing equal burdens and benefits.  No one worked for himself, and the products of the harvest, cattle and industry in which they were employed was guarded, administered and distributed by the missionary.  He was the procurator and defender of his neophytes, and, at the same time, their Chief and Justice of Peace, to settle all their quarrels, since the Mission Indians were not subject to the public authorities, except in grievous and criminal cases.  "This system, though criticized by some politicians, is the very one that made the Missions so flourishing.  The richest in population was that of San Luis Rey; in temporal things, that of San Gabriel. Mine was that of San Jos&eacute;, and, although I was promised, as it was on the gentile frontier, it would not be secularized, it, too, succumbed in 1836. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"In the inventory made in January, 1837, the result showed that said Mission numbered 1,300 neophytes, a great piece of land, well tilled; the store-houses filled with seeds; two orchards, one with 1,600 fruit trees; two vineyards-one with 6,039 vines, the other with 5,000; tools for husbandry in abundance; shops for carpenters, blacksmiths, shoemakers, and even tanneries, and all the implements for their work. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"The fields were covered with live stock; horned cattle, 20,000 head; sheep, 15,000; horses, 459.  For the saddle 600 colts of two years, 1,630 mares, 149 yoke of oxen, thirty mules, eighteen jackasses and seventy-seven hogs. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>370</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>"Twice a year a new dress was given to the neophytes, amounting in distribution to $6,000.  When the Mission was secularized I delivered to the mayor-domo then in charge some $20,000 worth of cloth and other articles which the store-house contained. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"The church of the Mission of San Jos&eacute; was neatly adorned, and well provided with vestments and other religious articles. and they had a very neat dress for feast days. Thirty musicians served in the choir, </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Of the Mission of Santa Clara, we can say the same more or less. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"The other Missions, called the 'Northern,' though having been already secularized, were in utter bankruptcy, and the same can be affirmed for the most part of those of the south, down to San Diego; for it was observed that as long as the Missions were in the hands of the missionaries everything was abundant; but as soon as they passed into the hands of laymen everything went wrong, till eventually complete ruin succeeded, and all was gone. Yet, we cannot say that the ambition of those men was the cause, since, though the government in the space of four years, divided seven ranches to private individuals-the smallest of a league and a half--yet in spite of this cutting off of part of my Mission lands, the Misson was every day progressing more and more. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"We have not to attribute the destruction of these establishments to rapacity; for though we can presume that something was taken, this was not the principal agent of destruction; but the blunder was made in their enterprises and the high fees paid to the chief steward and other salaried men, etc.  "The government of Mexico, up to the year 1830, acknowledged a debt in favor of these Missions of over $400,000, without counting other minor debts.  Finally, we have to acknowledge that a manifest punishment from God was the cause of the destruction of the Missions, since theft alone could not accomplish it and the subsidy given to the government would not affect them. On the contrary, left to the priests, the Missions would have prospered, and other establishments still more opulent would have been erected in the Tulares, even with out any protection from the government, and deprived of the subsidy of the Pious Fund of $400,000, if the revolution of Spain in the year 1808 and that of Mexico in 1810 had not put an end to the prosperity of the missionaries.  If zealous missionaries had been left amongst the savage tribes roaming through this vast territory, from the Sierra Nevada to the Coast Mountains, called then by the priests 'Tulares,' all would have been converted to Christianity, and would not have perished, as we see them now. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"I was able to save only a small relic of these tribes during the pestilence of 1833, in which I collected together some 600 Indians. I would have saved more during the small-pox epidemic of 1839, but my Mission had already been secularized, and I had no resources.  I could do nothing for the Indians, who were like boys of one hundred years.  It is only with liberality you can draw them towards you; give them plenty to eat and clothes in abundance, and they will soon become your friends, and you can then conduct them to religion, form them to good manners, and teach them civilized habits. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Do you want to know who were the cause of the ruin of these Missions? As I was not only a witness but a Victim of the sad events which caused their destruction, I have tried rather to shut my eyes that I might not see the evil, and close my ears to prevent hearing the innumerable wrongs which these establishments had suffered.  My poor neophytes did their part, in their own way, to try and diminish my sorrow and anguish." </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>371</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>PADRE JUNIPERO SERRA'S LETTER OF JULY 3,1769 TELLING OF HIS ARRIVAL AT SAN DIEGO </P>
025.sgm:<P>On the Feast of our Lady of Mount Carmel, July 16, 1769, was founded at San Diego the first Mission in Upper California. Thomas' MEMOIR (already quoted) contains the translation of an important letter, which throws some light upon the matter. So remarkable is the event that the letter, dated July 3, 1769, addressed by the Father-President of the Franciscan Missionaries to his future biographer, Father Pal&oacute;u, will without doubt, be read with deep interest: </P>
025.sgm:<P>"MY DEAR FRIEND:--Thank God I arrived the day before yesterday, the first of the month, at this port of San Diego, truly a fine one, and not without reason called famous.  Here I found those who had set out before me, both by sea and land, except those who have died. The brethren, Fathers Cresp&iacute;, Vizcaino, Parron and Gomez, are here with myself, and all are quite well, thank God.  Here are also the two vessels, but the San Carlos without sailors, all having died of the scurvy, except two.  The San Antonio, although she sailed a month and a half later, arrived twenty days before the San Carlos, losing on the voyage eight sailors.  In consequence of this loss, it has been resolved that the San Antonio shall return to San Blas, to fetch sailors for herself and for the San Carlos. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"The causes of the delay of the San Carlos were: first, lack of water, owing to the casks being bad, which, together, with bad water obtained on the coast, occasioned sickness among the crew; and secondly, the error which all were in respecting the situation of this port.  They supposed it to be thirty-three or thirty-four degrees north latitude, some saying one and some the other, and strict orders were given to Captain Villa and the rest to keep out in the open sea till they arrived at the thirty-fourth degree, and then to make the shore in search of the port. As, however, the port in reality lies in thirty-two degrees thirty-four minutes, according to the observations that have been made, they went much beyond it, thus making the voyage much longer than was necessary.  The people got daily worse from the cold and the bad water, and they must all have perished if they had not discovered the port about the time they did.  For they were quite unable to launch the boat to procure more water, or to do anything whatever for their preservation.  Father Fernando did every thing in his power to assist the sick; and although he arrived much reduced in flesh, he did not become ill, and is now well.  We have not suffered hunger or other privations, neither have the Indians who came with us; all arrived well and healthy. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"The tract through which we passed is generally very good land, with plenty of water; and there, as well as here, the country is neither rocky nor overrun with brush-wood.  There are, however, many hills, but they are composed of earth.  The road has been good in some places, but the greater part bad. About half-way, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>372</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>"We have seen Indians in immense numbers, and all those on this coast of the Pacific contrive to make a good subsistence on various seeds, and by fishing. The latter they carry on by means of rafts or canoes, made of tule (bullrush) with which they go a great way to sea.  They are very civil. All the males, old and young, go naked; the women, however, and the female children, are decently covered from their breasts downward.  We found on our journey, as well as in the place where we stopped, that they treated us with as much confidence and good-will as if they had known us all their lives.  But when we offered them any of our victuals, they always refused them. All they cared for was cloth, and only for something of this sort would they exchange their fish or whatever else they had. During the whole march we found hares, rabbits, some deer, and a multitude of berendos (a kind of a wild goat). </P>
025.sgm:<P>"I pray God may preserve your health and life many years. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"From this port and intended Mission of San Diego, in North California, third July, 1769. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"FR. JUN&Iacute;PERO SERRA." </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>373</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>STATEMENT OF GEORGE HYDE AND LETTERS IN THE HYDE CONTROVERSY </P>
025.sgm:<P>Inasmuch as the reputation of Mr. Hyde was involved in the charges made against him while he served as alcalde of San Francisco in 1847, and as he, like all gentlemen with a high sense of honor, feels sensitive in the matter, I have granted him the space in these pages to give his own statement concerning the charges and the attending circumstances. It is as follows: </P>
025.sgm:<P>"A ring had been formed which induced Mr. Edwin Bryant, my predecessor in office, to arbitrarily make changes and alterations in the surveys, pending the act of making old surveys rectangular, thereby breaking his own contract with the citizens and injuring some to oblige this ring; all of which was proved when the first charge against me to this effect was before the commission.  Immediately after I assumed office, in June, 1847, this party approached me to secure similar results. I was solicited to cause the survey of the 100 vara lots on the south side of Market street, to be moved forty feet further south, in order to make certain lots they desired to procure, south of Howard or Folsom street, more eligible, by lifting them out of the boggy location; and also to make a block of land at the junction of Bush and Battery, or thereabout, more eligible for business purposes.  I declined, because it would be an arbitrary act and injure many persons who already had vested rights.  I was also asked to change the survey of the water and beach lots, by making the lots into slips of 50 varas wide--streets intervening from the beach out to ship channel.  This was also refused, because the survey, as fixed by Mr. Bryant, was nearly completed.  I soon after this became the object of frequent anonymous attacks from the <HI REND="italics">California Star</HI>
025.sgm:, which culminated in the charges concocted and preferred, and which, so far as they went, were triumphantly disproved.  They were actually turned against my assailants, for the whole matter was well understood in its correct light by the entire community.  I was opposed to the sale of the water and beach lots, as granted by General Kearny, and sought to influence the Governor to allow a postponement, but I, being in office by military appointment, had to obey orders, and the lots were sold as surveyed.  C. L. Ross, under his name, bought a number of lots for individuals <HI REND="italics">who were members of the ring</HI>
025.sgm: previously referred to.  Their first effort was to get rid of paying the customary fees for recording the deeds.  Coached as to the objections he was to interpose, Ross urged many silly reasons for refusing to pay, and finally submitted the matter to the Town Council, which body decided in my favor.  Ross still persisted in refusing to pay, and I agreed to leave the matter to Hombres Buenos (arbitrators), each selecting one, and these two the third.  Mr. Ross, after a few days, informed the alcalde that he had selected Mr. Folsom.  On the following day the true state of the case was discovered.  Folsom was one of the actual purchasers; and of course no decision was ever reached.  Putting all these things together, it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:is very easily seen who of my assailants had motives for defacing maps, preferring charges, etc., and likewise to perceive <HI REND="italics">why</HI>
025.sgm:<P>"GEORGE HYDE" </P>
025.sgm:<P>The annexed letters are literally copied in vindication of Alcalde Hyde: "To George Hyde, 1-Alcalde: </P>
025.sgm:<P>"SIR: I acknowledge the receipt of your letter of yesterday evening enclosing a copy of a letter purporting to be a letter from the Town Council to the Governor together with his reply thereto, and also your several requests to which I respectfully return the following: I was not present at any meeting of the Town Council sitting as Commissioners to investigate the Charges preferred against you by a Committee of Citizens, nor has there been any such meeting publicly held since December last. Consequently I am not aware of the subject having been entertained; but have heard that the determination you allude to, soliciting the Governor to remove you, was made by the four members whose names you have mentioned, at a secret meeting which I was not invited to attend.  I have not been officially called on to sit in my capacity as commissioner to investigate since last December, nor has there been an official meeting of the board.  But four of the ten charges have as yet been entertained, and I know that you have repeatedly solicited the board to cause them to be brought to a speedy determination. Throughout the entire proceedings, and up to the present time, the Gentlemen whose names you mentioned have publicly expressed in my hearing that the Committee preferring the Charges have completely failed to prove them and that its proceedings were a perfect humbug; two of the persons preferring the charges have also admitted that fact in my presence, one saying that he wished he had never had anything to do with it, the other that he would not bother himself any more about it. I am very Respectfully, </P>
025.sgm:<P>Your Obt. Servant, </P>
025.sgm:<P>"W. S. CLARK." </P>
025.sgm:<P>"San Francisco, March 20, 1848." </P>
025.sgm:<P>"SAN FRANCISCO, July 16, 1855. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Geo. Hyde, Esq. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Sir: I rec'd yours of the 25th June, in regard your question when Alcalde in 1847. I was chairman of a committee of the Town Council of San Francisco, to investigate the charges preferred against you, and in respect to the first interrogation, I say that it is not true they were established by proof. To the second, that, by the testimony, you fully and completely exonerated yourself from all responsibility. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Yours Respect, </P>
025.sgm:<P>"ROBERT A. PARKER." </P>
025.sgm:<P>"SAN MATEO, July 23rd, 1855. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"MY DEAR SIR: I received your note of June 25th requesting an answer to two interrogatories therein contained concerning certain charges preferred against you whilst alcalde.  I say that the two charges as examined, were not established by proof.  In reply to the second, I say that in my opinion you did clearly exonerate yourself from all culpability, and it was so generally understood at the time. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Yours truly, </P>
025.sgm:<P>"W. D. M. HOWARD. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Geo. Hyde, Esq." </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>375</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>"SAN FRANCISCO, August 4, 1855. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I am, sir, with sincere respect, </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Very truly yours, &amp;c., </P>
025.sgm:<P>"W. S. CLARK." </P>
025.sgm:<P>"To George Hyde, San Francisco." </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>376</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>FIRST SAN FRANCISCO DIRECTORY </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eight or ten years since I prepared a list of the inhabitants of Yerba Buena, Mission Dolores and Presidio in 1846, which comprised the district of San Francisco, and the same was published in the <HI REND="italics">Morning Call</HI>
025.sgm:. Shortly after the article appeared in print I met the late Hall McAllister on Montgomery street one forenoon, and he stopped me to say that he had read the article referred to in the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
025.sgm:<P>The following is a similar list of names in the three villages above named on the 9th day in July, 1846, that the Mexican Eagle was displaced by the Stars and Stripes, by Captain Montgomery of the United States Navy. In the preparation of the names of the early residents at the time the government was changed, I have been very careful to omit none of the people that lived in the district; and I have revised the published list :- </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nathan Spear (retired from business on account of ill health), Mrs. Nathan Spear, two servants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mrs. Susanna Martinez Hinckley, and one servant. </P>
025.sgm:<P>William M. Smith, auctioneer. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Eliab Grimes, capitalist. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John Vioget, Maria Montero, his wife, two children and one servant. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Benavides. </P>
025.sgm:<P>William A. Leidesdorff, merchant and real estate owner, and one servant. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jack Fuller, Chona Linares, his wife, two daughters, two sons and two servants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>W. D. M. Howard (merchant), and three servants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Henry Mellus, merchant. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Wm. R. Bassham, clerk to Mellus &amp; Howard. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Jesus Noe, last Alcalde under the Mexican regime. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Do&ntilde;a Guadalupe, wife of Jos&eacute; Jesus Noe, four sons and two daughters (who were all small children) and four servants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Miguel Noe, son of ex-Alcalde Noe. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco Ramirez (Chilean), trader. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Trinidad Moya (Mexican), trader. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Gregorio Escalante (Manila), baker. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juana Briones de Miranda, one of the first settlers in Yerba Buena, who is still living (1889) on her large tract of land in Mayfield, Santa Clara County, at the advanced age of four-score and ten years; two sons and three daughters--small children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Apolinario Miranda (husband  of the former), and three servants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>--Seregee (young Russian), clerk to Leidesdorff <illus entity="a025-0056" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THIS FIRST DRAFT OF SAN FRANCISCO'S FIRST DIRECTORY--JULY 10, 1846-- <HI REND="italics">is in the handwriting of William Heath Davis.  The complete register of the town's inhabitants appears in the appendix.</HI>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>377</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Presentacion Miranda de Ridley and one servant. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Robert Ridley (husband of the former), Lessee of Vioget's Hotel. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John Evans, wife, three sons and three daughters. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tomas Miranda. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John Baywood (known by the name of John Cooper), wife and son. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John Sullivan, wood cutter and dealer, and two very young brothers. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Peter Sherreback and wife. </P>
025.sgm:<P>R. M. Sherman. </P>
025.sgm:<P>William Heath Davis, merchant, and two servants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Josiah Belden. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Henry Neal, clerk to Mellus &amp; Howard.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>George Glidding, formerly clerk to bark "Tasso." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Henry Richardson, formerly clerk to bark "Sterling." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Josefa Benavides, daughter of Mrs. Vioget. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Josefa Montero, sister of Mrs. Vioget. </P>
025.sgm:<P>H. F. Teschemacher, clerk to Henry Mellus' bark "Tasso," and afterwards agent for the same vessel. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Joseph P. Thompson, clerk to Mellus &amp; Howard. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mrs. John C. Davis, wife of John C. Davis. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John C. Davis and one servant, William J. Reynolds (Chino), John Rose, John Finch, tinker, ship-wrights, house-builders and blacksmiths. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Benito Diaz (Custom-House officer), wife, three small children and mother-in-law. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John Thompson, blacksmith. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mrs. Montgomery; afterwards married Talbot H. Green alias Paul Geddes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Charles E. Pickett. </P>
025.sgm:<P>George Denecke, baker. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vicente Miramontes, wife and six children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisca Vidal. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Charles Meyer, clerk to Leidesdorff. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rafael Vidal. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco el Negro, cook (Peruvian.) </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan el Negro, pastryman. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Carmel Tadeo, washerwoman. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Blas Tadeo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Blas Angelino, wood cutter. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Agramon, wood cutter. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Bernal and Chona Soto, his wife.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Victor Prudon and Teodosia Boronda, his wife, Marcella Boronda, sister of Mrs. Prudon. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Antonio Ortega, Chica Garcia, his wife. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Antonio Buhan (Peruvian), gambler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mary Bennett, husband and four children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Daniel Sill, miller and hunter. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Charles Clein, proprietor of saloon. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alexander Leavett, carpenter. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Lara, shoemaker. </P>
025.sgm:<P>A. A. Andrews, builder, and Rosalia Haro, his wife, two children and one servant. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Thos. Smith (Smith &amp; Co.), proprietor of saloon. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria Antonia Valle de Dawson, owner of land near the Blucher Rancho. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Guadalupe Berreyesa, grantee to a large tract of land. </P>
025.sgm:<P>J. H. Brown, saloon-keeper. </P>
025.sgm:<P>William Johnson, owner of schooners in the bay of San Francisco. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John Ackerman, clerk to W. A. Leidesdorff. </P>
025.sgm:<P>MISSION DOLORES  Padre Real, of the Mission San Francisco de Asis. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco Guerrero, Sub-Prefect of the District of San Francisco. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Josefa de Haro, wife of Francisco Guerrero, two sons and two servants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco de Haro, Ex-Alcalde. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Miliana Sanchez, wife of Francisco de Haro. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco de Haro, Jun. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ramon de Haro. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Natividad de Haro. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Prudencio and Alonzo de Haro, small children and two servants of the house-hold. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tiburcio Vasquez, mayordomo, Mission Dolores. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>378</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Alvina Hernandez, wife of Tiburcio Vasquez, eight children and two servants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Candelario Valencia.  (Valencia street is named after him.) </P>
025.sgm:<P>Paula Sanchez, wife of Candelario Valencia, and two servants. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eustaquio Valencia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Ramon Valencia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lucia Valencia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tomasa Valencia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco Valencia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Jesus Valencia and Julia Sanchez, his wife. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rosa Valencia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Amadeo Valencia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina Valencia, second wife of Jos&eacute; Jesus Noe. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leandro Galindo and Dominga Sotelo, his wife. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nazario Galindo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Josefa Galindo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Seferino Galindo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Benerito Galindo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Genaro Galindo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria Galindo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Antonia Galindo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Manuela Galindo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Chino Sanchez and Jesus Alviso, his wife, five small daughters. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Isabel Sanchez. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Gomez and Eusebia Galindo, his wife. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Guadalupe Gomez, female. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bernardino  Garcia,  married  to  Mrs. Hilaria Read. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Hilaria Sanchez Read, of Red's rancho in Marin County. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John (Read, of Read's rancho, Marin County. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Hilarita Read, of Read's rancho, Marin County. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Carmel Cibrian de Bernal. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bruno Valencia and Bernarda Duarte, his wife, and four children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Militon Valencia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Felipe Soto. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Santa Maria, Secretary to Sub-Prefect Guerrero. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Augustin Davila and Jesus Feliz, his wife, and two children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Augustin Davila, Junior. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tutiana Avila.  Dolores Avila.  Magin Feliz. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Toribio Tanferan (Peruvian) and Maria Valencia, his wife, and seven children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Cornelia Bernal, husband of Carmel Cibrian. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Jesus Bernal. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Angel Alviso and Josefa Sotelo, his wife. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ysidor Jalapa.  Rafaela Jalapa. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mariano Jalapa. </P>
025.sgm:<P>PRESODIO </P>
025.sgm:<P>Do&ntilde;a Guadalupe Briones de Miramontes.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Candelario Miramontes, her husband. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ygnacio Miramontes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rodolfo Miramontes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Arciano Miramontes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Raimundo Miramontes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; de los Santos Miramontes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Jos&eacute; Miramontes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Do&ntilde;a Luz Briones, who is still living at the great age of more than a century; with her sister Do&ntilde;a Juana Briones de Miranda, at Mayfield, Santa Clara County.  (1889) </P>
025.sgm:<P>Dolores Miramontes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ramona Miramontes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Manuel Pe&ntilde;a (an old soldier of the Mexican army) and Guadalupe, his wife. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Dolores Pe&ntilde;a. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria de Los Angeles Pe&ntilde;a. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Carmel Pe&ntilde;a.  Maria Pe&ntilde;a. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Antonia Pe&ntilde;a.  Francisco Pe&ntilde;a. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eusebio Soto, (an old artilleryman of the Spanish and Mexican armies, with the rank of Corporal) and Martina Mendoza, his wife and three children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Marta Soto. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco Soto. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Joaquin Pe&ntilde;a (an old soldier of the Spanish and Mexican armies, with the rank of Corporal) and Eustaquia Mojica, his wife. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; de la Cruz Pe&ntilde;a.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>379</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>In 1881 and 1882 while I was in the capital of the nation I became acquainted with John McDermett, a resident and capitalist of Washington, and I frequented his home, and in those visits I made to him and his family, he and myself would often get into discussions over the unacceptable immigration from China to the State of California.  He thought, from a humane standpoint, the people of California were, as a class, too harsh and severe in their treatment of the Mongolians. Of course, during our arguments I opposed all Suggestions in behalf of the Chinamen, but I could never convince him that their presence was demoralizing to the youthful people of the young State, and that they had been extracting millions of gold continuously for many years. About three years ago Mr. McDermett came to California for the first time, to visit a married daughter residing in the city, and viewed many points of interest in the State of perpetual flowers. One day I said to him that I would be pleased to devote one or two days in showing him the city. We visited Chinatown, and I took him into basements and cellars which were inhabited by Chinese, and the smell from the filth that surrounded their habitations was so offensive that he and I were glad to retreat to the street above us and into the pure air. From Washington street I called my friend's attention to both sides of Stockton street, which were once the residences of capitalists and merchants of the town, which were now populated by the Mongolians the whole line of the street from California to south side of Broadway. When we crossed the latter street, and got out of the Chinese quarters, northward, Mr. McDermett remarked: "This portion of Stockton street is an American town." </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Eastern tourist became satisfied and convinced that this class of people was injurious to the prosperity of California, morally and commercially. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I have been favored with the following item upon the Chinese influence in San Francisco by Mr. S. P. Leeds, editor of the <HI REND="italics">Commercial Record</HI>
025.sgm:<P>"The influx of the Chinese began before 1838, with a single Mongolian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>380</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>"As an illustration the following incident is narrated. A manufacturer of bird cages finding that he could employ Chinese at less wages than he paid white men, took two or three of them into his factory. After a while one of them left, under pretence of going to China; but recommended his cousin as a good steady fellow to fill his place, which was given to him. The same method was adopted by another of them with the same result. This occurred several times, as fast as those employed had learned the art of making bird cages. During this time they had found out where the employer procured his materials and who were his customers. They started a factory in Chinatown and offered their cages to the dealers at a great reduction in price from what they had been paying. The manufacturer finding his sales rapidly falling off, went among his customers to learn the cause, and discovered that his false economy in hiring Chinese had ruined his business, and he had soon after to close it and seek some other occupation. This will be the final result to all trades in which the Chinese are given work, for the same reason. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"They have the control 0f the manufacture of cigars, shoes and slippers; common clothing; six or eight jewelry establishments, several hardware stores, numerous express wagons; and have recently invaded the higher branches of commerce by becoming exporters of American products to China markets: and soon no flour will be shipped there except by them. This deprives the mill men of a profitable branch of their business, which will be more seriously felt when the Chinese execute their intended purpose of building a large flouring mill. They have also established a Marine Insurance Company, and will, unless they are kept out of the country, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>381</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>"Their immorality is of the most iniquitous character. They are regard less of female virtue, and take especial delight in inducing young girls into their premises for the most flagrant purposes. Their brothels are boldly open upon some streets, where boys are ruined for life by visiting those abominable haunts. </P>
025.sgm:<P>"Regardless of human life, they would to-day, if they knew themselves to be powerful enough to escape the vengeance which should follow the deed, murder every white man and boy in the city, and only spare the women and girls for a fate worse than death. They have been a curse to every country where they have gained a foothold." </P>
025.sgm:<P>Note--The above shows the intensity of feeling which was held by many Californians during the period from 1880 to 1900. Reason has now taken the place of prejudice whenever the Chinese are concerned. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>382</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>ROSTER OF OFFICERS OF STEVENSON'S REGIMENT </P>
025.sgm:<P>Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson was in command of the New York regiment of one thousand volunteer soldiers, which was sent by the United States Government to California, with the following officials attached there-to, namely: </P>
025.sgm:<P>FIELD OFFICERS. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Colonel, J. D. Stevenson. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant-Colonel, Henry S. Burton. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Major, James A. Hardie. </P>
025.sgm:<P>STAFF OFFICERS. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Surgeon, Alexander Perry. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Asst, Surgeon, Robert Murray.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Asst. Surgeon, William C. Parker.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain William G. Marcy, Commissary.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant J. C. Bonnycastle, Adjutant.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain Joseph L. Folsom, Asst. Quartermaster. </P>
025.sgm:<P>NON-COMMISSIONED STAFF </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant-Major, Alexander C. McDonald. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Quarter-master Sergeant, Stephen Harris. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Quarter-master Sergeant, George G. Belt.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Quarter-master Sergeant, James C. Low. </P>
025.sgm:<P>SUTLER'S DEPARTMENT. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sutler, Samuel W. Haight.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clerk, James C. L. Wadsworth. </P>
025.sgm:<P>COMPANY A. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain, Seymour G. Steele. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, George S. Penrose. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Charles B. Young. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, George F. Lemon. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Sherman O. Houghton. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Walter Chipman. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Edward Irwin. </P>
025.sgm:<P>COMPANY B. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain, ----Turner. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Henry C. Matsell. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Thomas E. Ketchum. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, E. Gould Buffum. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, James Stayton. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Charles C. Scott. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, John Wilt. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Charles Richardson. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, James D. Denniston. </P>
025.sgm:<P>COMPANY C. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain, J. E. Brackett. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Theron R. Per Lee. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Thomas J. Roach. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Charles C. Anderson. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Wm R. Tremmels. (Died off Cape Horn.) </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, George D. Brewerton. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Edmund P. Crosby. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, William Johnson. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, George Robinson. </P>
025.sgm:<P>COMPANY D. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain, Henry M. Naglee. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, George A. Pendleton. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Hiram W. Theall. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Joseph C. Morehead. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Aaron Lyons </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, William Roach. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Henry J. Wilson. </P>
025.sgm:<P>COMPANY E. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain, Nelson Taylor. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Edwards Williams. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>383</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, William E. Cuttrell. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Thomas L. Vermeule. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, John M. O'Neil. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Henry S. Morton </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, James Maneis. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Abraham Van Riper. </P>
025.sgm:<P>COMPANY F </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain, Francis J. Lippitt. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Henry Storrow Carnes. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, William H. Weirick. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, John M. Huddart. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, James Queen. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Thomas Hipwood. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, James Mulvey. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, John C. Pulis. </P>
025.sgm:<P>COMPANY G. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain, Matthew R. Stevenson.  Lieutenant, John McH. Hollingsworth. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Jeremiah Sherwood. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, William H. Smith. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Walter Taylor. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, William B. Travers. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, James Mehan. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, John Connell. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, George Jackson. </P>
025.sgm:<P>COMPANY H. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain, John B. Frisbie. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Edward Gilbert. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, John S. Day. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Eleazer Frisbie. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, William Grow. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Henry A. Schoolcraft. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, James Winne. </P>
025.sgm:<P>COMPANY J. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain, William E. Shannon. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Henry Magee. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Palmer B. Hewlett. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Joseph Evans. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Joshua S. Vincent. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, B. Logan </P>
025.sgm:<P>COMPANY K </P>
025.sgm:<P>Captain, Kimball H. Dimmick. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, John S. Norris. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, George C. Hubbard. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lieutenant, Roderick M. Morrison. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sergeant, Jackson Sellers. </P>
025.sgm:<P>CHAPLAIN, </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rev. T. M. Leavenworth. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>384</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>STEVENSON'S REGIMENT COMES TO CALIFORNIA </P>
025.sgm:<P>The regiment sailed from New York on September the 26th, 1846, in three transports of about eight hundred tons burden each, namely: "Thomas H. Perkins," Captain James Arthur, (formerly of the "California," a hide ship); "Loo Choo," Captain Hatch, (formerly of the "Barnstable," also a hide ship), and ship "Susan Drew," Captain for San Francisco. The troops were equally divided among the vessels. After leaving New York, the three ships soon parted company and were out of sight of each other until their arrival at Rio Janeiro, where they remained ten days. </P>
025.sgm:<P>On Colonel Stevenson's arrival at Rio Janeiro, he found an American naval squadron in port. While he was preparing to salute the Squadron's flag, the captain of the port came 0n board and asked Col. Stevenson if he was intending to salute the Brazilian flag. The Colonel replied that he was not, but was preparing to salute the flag of the squadron. Then the captain of the port asked if he would exchange salutes, to which the Colonel replied he would do so with pleasure. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After the salute to the American flag was fired, the Colonel sent Captain Folsom to the flag-ship of the squadron to inform the Commodore that he was in command of the New York regiment on its way to California; and also, that he intended to salute the Brazilian flag. The Commodore said that there was no intercourse between the Brazilian government, and the American Minister and himself. That as Colonel Stevenson was in command of his regiment, he could do what seemed best, but the relations were somewhat strained between our representatives and that government. When Captain Folsom returned, Colonel Stevenson sent an officer on shore, to the captain of the port to inform him that he declined to fire the promised salute to the Brazilian government. The justification of declining to salute the Brazilian flag was the severe criticism which had been passed upon certain imprudent remarks of Minister Wise the day before Folsom visited the flagship. Wise was the god-father at the christening on board the flag-ship, of a child born in the fleet of transports during their voyage to Rio Janeiro, and spoke of the infant being greater <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>385</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Probably there was unpleasantness between minister and government, anterior to the christening incident. The Imperial Council met and passed a resolution to order the transports, as well as other American vessels, out of port. Colonel Stevenson, after his ships dropped anchor, issued a general order to the regiment that one-third of the men should have liberty on shore one day; and on the next two succeeding days one-third should enjoy a similar privilege.  Colonel Stevenson had taken up his quarters on shore and when that resolution was passed, he was informed of the fact by an English merchant. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When he heard this he went back to his fleet to countermand the order, to avoid any collision between the soldiers and the citizens; and he informed the men of the probable difficulty. He instructed the companies to prepare themselves to be ready for the emergency, everything must be in perfect order, and perhaps the next time they went on shore, it would be with fixed bayonets. As he stated this, the men went aloft and manned the yards and cheered him. He visited the other two ships and countermanded his order, giving the same reasons for doing so. He was also cheered from the yards by them; all of the men being eager for a fight. Colonel Stevenson went on shore, and as he landed on the mole he was met by many thousand people and was asked the reason of the cheering on the three ships. He stated the above mentioned facts, and told the citizens if the resolution which was passed should be enforced, he would land one thousand men with fixed bayonets, and they would have one thousand men worse than so many devils turned loose on them, and also have the American naval squadron's batteries opened upon the city under which fire the Emperor's palace would inevitably be destroyed. But the Imperial resolution was never put in force. The Commodore seeing the commotion on the mole went on shore to ascertain its cause and there thanked Colonel Stevenson for his action in the matter. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In leaving Rio Janeiro the "Perkins" sailed directly for her destination, and arrived on the 6th of March, 1847, one hundred and sixty-five days from New York, with the Colonel of the regiment and her pro rata of the soldiers. After departing from Rio Janeiro the "Loo Choo" and "Susan Drew" stopped at Valparaiso. Both vessels reached San Francisco in the same month, but after the arrival of the "Perkins." </P>
025.sgm:<P>The voyage of the fleet from the Atlantic to the Pacific oceans was without any material interruptions to mar the comforts of their loads of humanity. These troops were the first that ever left the Atlantic coast of the United States to go so great a distance to a foreign country. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>386</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>SOME PARTICULARS REGARDING STEVENSON'S REGIMENT </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Colonel Stevenson reached San Francisco he found ordersawaiting him from General Kearny for the distribution of the companies of the regiment, which were as follows: Sonoma one, Presidio two, Monterey two, Santa Barbara three, and Los Angeles two companies. On the arrival of these companies at Los Angeles, they found a battalion of five hundred Mormon soldiers, and the latter were turned over to Colonel Stevenson's command. In July the battalion was disbanded. A new company of Mormons was organized under Captain Davis, and sent to San Diego, and remained there until April or May, 1848, when it was mustered out of service. Colonel Stevenson took command at Monterey where he established his head quarters. Early in June, 1847, he received orders from Washington to take command from Santa Barbara southward, with headquarters at Los Angeles, to the line of the boundary of the Territory newly acquired by conquest, during the pendency of diplomatic discussion over the terms of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, which was not ratified until May 30, 1848. In August, September and October, 1848, the entire regiment was mustered out of service, and the soldiers became citizens of the new country, and were living under their own flag. </P>
025.sgm:<P>When Stevenson arrived he found California in a state of tranquility, the result of the good work of Commodore Stockton; a long account of which I have given. There is no doubt whatever that Colonel Stevenson, arriving as he did soon after the battle of the river of San Gabriel, which stamped the naval officer as the conqueror and hero of the war, demonstrated to the Californians the endless power and resources of the United States, to perpetuate its authority over the conquered country. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After the disembarcation of the regiment, the three ships departed for China, for cargoes of Chinese merchandise for New York and other Eastern ports. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The ship "Brutus," Captain Adams, was chartered by the government to transport the stragglers of the regiment, who had been left behind, and also stores for the command at San Francisco. She sailed from New York for her destination and arrived in April, 1847. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The ship "Isabella" sailed from Philadelphia on August 16th, 1847, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>387</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Before and after war was declared between the United States and Mexico, a journey to California overland was attended with dangers. The person making the journey would feel as if exiled to some foreign land. It took from four to six months to accomplish it. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Colonel Stevenson, during his long residence in California, has in variably won the respect and esteem of his fellow citizens by his manly and upright line of action. All that he has done has been prompted by a fixed principle of honor, probity and integrity. He is still in full possession of his mental faculties and exercises his mind more effectually than do many who have not reached his term of years. He has ever been kind, courteous and obliging to his friends, and even many strangers have cause to be grateful for some benevolent action on his part. It is to be hoped that he may be spared for many years to gladden the hearts of his friends by his presence among them. (1888.) </P>
025.sgm:<P>I may here remark that his son, Captain Matthew R. Stevenson, whom I knew after the arrival of the regiment, was a high-minded, brave young officer of the regular army. He died at the time of our civil war, in 1861, in the service of his country during that eventful period of the nation's life. </P>
025.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1881-82, I was at the capital of the nation. On the morning before Christmas, Mr. James B. Metcalfe and myself made a trip to the tomb of the Father of his country (Mount Vernon) to view the interesting relics, that were preserved for our citizens and those of other nations to look at, as memorials of General Washington. In nearing the wharf that Washington used, or the site on which the old one stood in his days, I observed a tall, stout, well-dressed gentleman looking at me, while at the same time he approached, and said: "Are you a Western man from California?" I replied, "Yes." He then asked my name which I told him. "Oh I" he said, "I was in your store in San Francisco many times in 1847; I was then a lieutenant in Stevenson's regiment and my name is Hollingsworth. I will take pleasure in showing you and your friend the sights of Mount Vernon." Colonel Hollingsworth was the Superintendent of Mount Vernon at that time. He went with us to the general's chamber and showed us the bedstead on which Washington died; then to the room which General Lafayette had occupied, where everything remained just as this noble friend of liberty and comrade of Washington had left it. The apartment in which Mrs. Martha Washington died, was next opened for our inspection, and the original furniture stood as she had used it. From the house we went to the tomb of both the husband and wife. All <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>388</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Many years ago some of the energetic and patriotic women of the nation formed a company for purchasing Mount Vernon and many relics, as permanent mementos of Washington, for the people of the United States. The property was bought for two hundred thousand dollars, by two hundred thousand women of the country. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>389</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>MISSIONS AND THEIR WEALTH: HACENDADOS AND THEIR PROPERTY </P>
025.sgm:<P>When I was at the port of San Luis Obispo, in the bark "Louisa," in the year 1831, the Mission of that name was wealthy, with Sixty thousand head of cattle and thousands of sheep and horses. The great wealth of the Missions, while under Spanish and Mexican control, in cattle, horses and sheep, will be shown by the following enumeration of their live stock, before and after their secularization-before and after the year 1830. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission Sonoma: 30,000 cattle and I ,000 horses and mares. The stock on the rancho Suscol before mentioned belonged to the Mission. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission of Santa Clara: 65,000 cattle, 30,000 sheep and 4,000 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mentioning this Mission, recalls to my mind a transaction in hides and tallow, with the Fathers Mercado and Muro, in my earlier dealings with them in September, 1844, which showed that the Missions acted in unison with each other. I received from Father Mercado of the Santa Clara Mission, a letter to Father Muro of Mission of San Jos&eacute;, request ing him to deliver to me two hundred hides, which he did, as part payment for some goods I had sold the former. I had not pressed the matter at all; but he said it was the same as if he had paid for them himself. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission San Juan Bautista: More than 60,000 cattle, 2,000 horses and mares and 20,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission San Antonio: Don Jos&eacute; &Aacute;brego, administrator in 1833 and 1834; 10,000 cattle, 500 horses and mares, 10,000 sheep. There were 1,000 Indians at the Mission. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission San Miguel: 35,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 20,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Soledad (Mission): 25,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 10,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>La Purisima Concepcion (Mission): 20,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 15,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission Santa Ynez: 20,000 cattle, 1,500 horses and mares and 10,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission San Fernando: 50,000 cattle, 1,500 horses and mares and 20,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>390</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Mission San Gabriel: 80,000 cattle, 3,000 horses and mares and 30,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission San Luis Rey: 60,000 cattle, 2,000 horses and mares and 20,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission San Juan Capistrano: 20,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 10,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission of San Diego: 15,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 20,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission 0f Santa Barbara: 20,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 20,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mission San Buena Ventura: 25,000 cattle, 1,500 horses and mares and 10,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The following is a list of the solid men 0f the department, anterior to and after the change of government. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco P. Pacheco: Ranchos San Felipe and San Luis Gonzales, about 90,000 acres of land; I 4,000 cattle, 500 horses and mares and 15,000 sheep. That rich hacendado was a large buyer of merchandise, and I sold many goods to him in 1844 and 1845. He hauled the hides and tallow from his hacienda, a distance of sixty miles, to the embarcadero of Santa Clara, now the town of Alviso. </P>
025.sgm:<P>David Spence: Rancho Buena Esperanza, 25,000 acres of land; 4,000 head of cattle, 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Malarin: Ranchos Zanjones, Guadalupe, Correos and Chualar, 8 leagues of land; 6,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares, and 2,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>James Watson: Rancho San Benito, 2 leagues of land; 2,000 cattle, 100 horses and mares, and 1,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Teodoro Gonzales: Rancho San Cenobio or Rincon de la Punta del Monte; 5,000 cattle and 300 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Estevan de la Torre: Rancho Escarpines, two leagues of land; 1,600 cattle and 150 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Estevan Munras: Rancho Laguna Seca, 3 leagues of land; 3,000 cattle, and 200 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Feliciano Soberanes: Ranchos Ex Mission Soledad and San Lorenzo; 4,000 cattle, 2,000 sheep and 300 horses and mares. This land was the old Mission Soledad and pursuant to the law of secularization was sold by order of the government. After the arrival of a Bishop in California, he called on Se&ntilde;or Soberanes, who was ill at the time, and requested him to give back to the Church the property above named--an advisable act, if he, Soberanes, wanted to save his soul. The old hacendado replied to the Reverend Father, that he had decided to leave the land to his heirs and he must decline his request. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>391</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Charles Wolter: Rancho Toro, 4 leagues of land; 3,000 cattle, 2,000 sheep, 150 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sebastian Rodrigues: Rancho Bolsa del Pajaro, 2 leagues of land; 2,000 cattle, and 100 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Amesti: Rancho Los Corralitos, 4 leagues of land; 5,000 cattle, 300 horses and mares, and 2,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Antonio Vallejo: Rancho Pajaro, 4 leagues of land; 4,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>W. E. P. Hartnell: Rancho Alisal, 2 leagues of land; 2,500 cattle and 200 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>James Stokes: Rancho de las Verjeles; 2,200 cattle and 100 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Rafael Gonzales (Pintito): Rancho San Miguelito de Trinidad, 5 leagues of land; 4,500 cattle, and 200 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Wilson: Rancho Guilicos, 4 leagues of land; 3,000 cattle, and 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Government Rancho Nacional: in Monterey Valley; 6 leagues of  land; 15,000 cattle, and 200 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Santiago and Jos&eacute; Ramon Estrada: Rancho Buenavista, 3 leagues of land; 2,000 cattle, and 200 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Joaquin Estrada: Rancho Santa Margarita, 6 leagues of land; 4,000 cattle and 300 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Simeon Castro: Rancho Bolsa Nueva y Moro Cojo, 8 leagues of land (the present site of the city of Castroville); 6,000 cattle and 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco Rico: Rancho San Bernardo, 3 leagues of land; 3,000 cattle, and 100 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; &Aacute;brego: owner of the following ranchos:--Punta Pinos, 1 league of land, now the present site of "Pacific Grove;" Noche Buena, near the Hotel Del Monte, 2 leagues; Saucito, 1 league and San Francisquito, 3 leagues. Those ranchos contained 4,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Anzar: Rancho Los Aromitas y Agua Caliente, 3 leagues of land; 4,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares and 4,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Charles Wolter: Rancho Tularcito; 1,000 cattle and 50 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>William G. Dana, Rancho Nipoma, 32,728 acres of land; 6,000 cattle, 500 horses and mares and 10,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Joaquin and Jos&eacute; A. Carrillo: Rancho Lompoc, 38,335 acres; 2,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares and 1,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>392</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Salvio Pacheco: Rancho Monte Diablo, 18,000 acres of land; 3,500 cattle, 300 horses and mares and 4,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Henry D. Fitch: Rancho Sotoyom&eacute;, 11 leagues of land; 14,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 10,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John A. Sutter: Rancho New Helvetia, 11 leagues of land; 4,000 cattle, 800 horses and mares and 10,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>William A. Richardson: Rancho Saucelito, 19,571 acres of land; 2,800 cattle and 300 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rafael Garcia: Ranchos Tomales and Baulinas, 2 leagues of land; 5,000 cattle and 150 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ygnacio Pacheco: Rancho San Jos&eacute;, 6,660 acres of land; 3,300 cattle and 400 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John Marsh: Rancho Los M&eacute;danos, 4 leagues of land; 5,000 cattle, 500 horses and mares, and 5,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tomas Pacheco and Agustin Alviso: Rancho Potrero de los Cerritos, 3 leagues of land; 4,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Anastasio Carrillo: Rancho Punta de la Concepcion, 24,992 acres of land; 4,000 cattle and 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ex-Alcalde J0s&eacute; Jesus Noe: Rancho San Miguel, I league of land; 2,OOO cattle and 200 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Hilaria Sanchez Read: Rancho Tamalpais, 2 leagues of land; 2,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares and 1,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Temple: Rancho Los Cerritos, 5 leagues 0f land; I 4,000 cattle, 5,000 sheep and 1,000 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ricardo Vejar: Rancho San Jos&eacute;, 22,720 acres of land; 8,000 cattle and 600 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Abel Stearns: Rancho Alamitos, 6 leagues of land, and other ranchos, amounting to many thousand acres; 30,000 cattle, 2,000 horses and mares, and 10,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Avila: rancho El Nigil, 4 leagues of land; 9,000 cattle and 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pio Pico and Andres Pico: Rancho Los Coyotes, 56,980 acres of land; in Los Angeles county; 10,000 cattle, 1,500 horses and mares, and 5,000 sheep; also ranchos Santa Margarita, Los Flores and San Mateo, in San Diego county, with many thousand acres of land; 10,000 cattle, 2,000 horses and mares and 15,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Carlos Antonio Carrillo: Rancho Sespe, 6 leagues of land; 5,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 5,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ygnacio del Valle: Rancho Camulos, 22 leagues of land; 5,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 5,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>393</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Manuel Dominguez: Rancho San Pedro, 10 leagues of land; 8,000 cattle, 1,500 horses and mares and 5,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bernardo Yorba: Ranchos Santiago de Santa Ana, I I leagues of land; La Sierra, 4 leagues: El Rincon, 1 league; those ranchos in all contained I 1,000 cattle, 1,500 horses and mares and 8,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Agustin Machado: Rancho La Ballona, 13,920 acres of land; 10,000 cattle and 600 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Julio Verdugoo: Rancho Los Verdugos, 8 leagues of land; 5,000 cattle and 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John Roland and William Workman; Rancho La Puente, 48,790 acres of land; 5,000 cattle, 500 horses and mares and 5,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Sep&uacute;lveda: Rancho San Joaquin, I I leagues of land; 14,000 cattle and 3,000 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Antonio Aguirre: Rancho San Pedro, 2 leagues of land; 3,700 cattle. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Loreto and Juan Sep&uacute;lveda: Rancho Los Palos Verdes, 31,600 acres of land; 5,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 5,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nasario Dominguez: Rancho San Pedro, 2 leagues of land; 5,000 cattle and 300 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ygnacio Machado: Rancho Ballona, 13,920 acres of land; 3,600 cattle and 200 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Antonio Maria Lugo: Rancho San Antonio, I I leagues; and Chino, 6 leagues of land; 30,000 cattle and 1,500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Maria Lugo: Rancho San Antonio; 3,000 cattle and 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vicente Lugo: Rancho San Antonio; 4,000 cattle and 400 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tomas Yorba: Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana, 8 leagues of land; 6,000 cattle, 400 horses and mares and 4,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Teodosio Yorba: Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana, 7 leagues of land; 4,800 cattle and 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tomas A. Sanchez: Rancho La Ci&eacute;nega; 2,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and I 5,000 sheep. This hacendado was Sheriff of Los Angeles county from 1860 to 1868. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Noriega and Robert Livermore: Rancho Los Pozitos, 2 leagues of land; 2,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fulgencio and Mariano Higuera: Rancho Agua Caliente, 2 leagues of land; 3,500 cattle, 350 horses and mares and 4,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Antonio Su&ntilde;ol: Rancho El Valle de San Jos&eacute;, 51,573 acres of land; 6,600 cattle, 500 horses and mares and 5,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>394</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Agustin Bernal: Rancho El Valle de San Jos&eacute;, 4,000 cattle, 400 horses and mares and 4,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Bernal: Rancho El Valle de San Jos&eacute;; 2,300 cattle, 200 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tiburcio Vasquez: Rancho Corral de Tierra, 1 league of land; 2,100 cattle and 200 horses and mares; in San Mateo county. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco Sanchez: Rancho San Pedro, 2 leagues of land; in San Mateo county; 2,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Joaquin Ruiz: Rancho La Bolsa Chica, 2 leagues of land; 2,400 cattle and 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Antonio Yorba: Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana, 2 leagues of land; 3,200 cattle and 300 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ramon Yorba: Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana, 2 leagues of land; 2,500 cattle and 400 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Macedonio Aguilar: Rancho La Ballona, 2 leagues of land; 4,800 cattle, 400 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Diego Sep&uacute;lveda: Rancho Los Palos Verdes, 2 leagues of land; 2,300 cattle and 300 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco Sep&uacute;lveda: Rancho San Vicente, 38,000 acres of land; 5,000 cattle and 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Francisco Ocampo: Rancho San Bartolo, in Los Angeles Valley; 8 leagues of land; 7,000 cattle and 350 horses and mares.  John B. R. Cooper: Rancho Molino, 3 leagues of land; 6,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares; also Ranchos Sur, 2 leagues of land, and Bolsa&oacute; de Potrero y Moro Cojo, or La Sagrada Familia, 2 leagues of land; 3,000 cattle and 200 hundred horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Maria Anzar and Manuel Larios: Ranchos Santa Ana, 1 league, and Quien Sabe, 6 leagues of land; in San Juan Bautista Valley; 4,000 cattle, 300 horses and mares and 4,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ygnacio Palomares: Rancho San Jos&eacute; (Pomona), 2 leagues of land; 3,000 cattle, and 500 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pedro Avila: Rancho El Nigil, 2 leagues of land, in Los Angeles Valley; 3,400 cattle and 300 horses and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Henrique &aacute;vila: Rancho Los Cuervos, 2 leagues of land; 2,200 cattle, 300 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jos&eacute; Maria Avila: Rancho Los Cuervos, 2 leagues of land; 2,000 cattle and 200 horses, and mares. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Antonio Ygnacio Avila: Rancho Sauzal Redondo, 5 leagues of land; 4,500 cattle and 500 horses. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Andres Pico: Ex-Mission San Fernando, 1 1 leagues of land; 5,000 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>420</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>395</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>To enumerate all the ranchos in the department, with the live stock on them, would take too many pages. I have only mentioned, comparatively, a few or Some of the more important haciendas, to illustrate their great wealth. </P>
025.sgm:<P>After their downfall, the Missions became destitute and the lands were granted by the authorities of the department to citizens of the young country. Those men became stock-raisers, and through the experience gained by their observations of management by the Fathers, they succeeded in reinstating the lost riches of California, which were taken from the missionaries; and they even accumulated more than twofold the former wealth of the primitive land. They became extensive hacendados, and were inspired by the numerous evidences around them, which remained only as monuments that were fast crumbling away, of the energy, per severance and industry of the good Fathers, in their days of plenty and their acquisition of property. </P>
025.sgm:<P>I may have alluded before to the facts contained in the statement, which leads me to make the assertion, without fear of a successful contradiction, that the Department of California previous to and after the ruin of the Missions, in proportion to the population, was the richest of any country under Spanish dominion and inhabited by citizens of Castillian extraction. </P>
025.sgm:<P>There were one thousand and forty-five grants of ranchos of all sizes made by the governors; deducting from that number two hundred and forty-five (which it is presumed were not stocked with animals) will leave eight hundred ranchos, which were probably all stocked; averaging 1,500 head of cattle to each rancho, and making a total of 1,200,000; this was after the Missions became poor. There are eighty-seven haciendas above mentioned, with an average of 5,310 cattle to each. When, in addition, the horses and sheep are considered, surely no Stronger proof of the as sertion as to the wealth of the Department of California at that period, could be either required or produced. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>397</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>RECORD OF SHIPS ARRIVING FROM 1774 TO 1847 </P>
025.sgm:<P>I am indebted to Mr. James Alexander Forbes, for the following list of arrivals and vessels at California ports from 1774 to 1847. Mr. Forbes for years occupied the post of official government translator and keeper of the Spanish and Mexican Archives in the United States Surveyor General's office, for the District of California; without his aid I could not have obtained any data concerning the earlier shipping. </P>
025.sgm:<P>He was the son of the well known pioneer, James A. Forbes, who, during his lifetime, was esteemed and respected by all who had social and business relations with him. J. A. Forbes, Jr. was educated in Santa Clara College, and being a master of Several languages, obtained the position of Official Translator of the laws of California, in the years 1867, 1868, 1869, 1870; he had the reputation of being the most accurate translator and fluent interpreter in the State. His father came to California in the year 1829; he was British Vice-Consul for many years. He married a native California lady of Castillian descent; he was a highly educated gentleman speaking the English, Spanish and French languages with great accuracy and fluency; it was very entertaining and instructive to listen to his conversation. During his consulate, his official acts gave satisfaction to his government, and his private life was irreproachable. His death occurred in 1881, at the ripe age of 79 years; leaving a family of ten children. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1774.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Carlos.   </P>
025.sgm:<P>Principe, July, 24.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>1776.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Carlos.   </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Antonio, June 6th.   </P>
025.sgm:<P>Principe.   </P>
025.sgm:<P>1778.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Carlos arrives on the coast July 22.  Order for vessels that bring supplies to take back salt, March 8th.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>1779. </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Carlos arrives at San Diego Feb. 15. Princesa and Favorita anchored in the  Bay or Port of San Francisco on the 15th of September, 1779. The vessels belonged to His Majesty King of Spain and came on an exploring expedition under command of Don Ygnacio Ortega. They reached up to 650 and some minutes north latitude and did not go to 700 north latitude as ordered because the coast turned to the south. Garland (Spanish brig) captured by an English man of war, June 7th, 1779. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1783. </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Carlos, June, 2. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Favorita, July 27. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1784 </P>
025.sgm:<P>Favorita, Spanish man of war, Oct. 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>398</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>1786. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spanish Frigate Aranzazu, Feb. 11th, Santa Lucia, June 7th, Favorita, Sept. 29th, Princesa, Sept. 21st, Spanish war ships, with materials for Presidio buildings. Order prohibiting passengers on board vessels to carry more than 2 pounds of tobacco, October 5th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1787. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Astrolabe and Boussole, anchored at Monterey, with La P&eacute;rouse, the explorer, April 12th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Princesa, at Monterey, Feb. 27th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Aranzazu, January 6th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Boussole, Jan. 6th Astrolabe, Jan. 6th, French vessels. </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Carlos, Sept. 29th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1788. </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Carlos, Sept. 7th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Princesa, at Santa Barbara, Oct. 8th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Frigate Aranzazu, Dec. 21st, came into port and Mateo Rubio, a soldier, was wounded by the firing of a cannon. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1789. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Frigate Aranzazu at Santa Barbara, Oct. 2. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1791. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Aranzazu, August 22d. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Princesa, October 24th; saw unknown vessel in distress in Pichilingue Bay. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Princesa  (Spanish Frigate) arrived at Loreto with Naturalist Jos&eacute; Longinos Martinez and Jaime Senseve, Botanist, to make collections for the Museum of Natural History, October 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Aranzazu (Spanish Frigate), Juan Bautista Matute, Captain. He says to the Governor of the Department: "By last advices from the Court of Madrid, which I delivered at Nootka, it appears that the King does not wish that port to be abandoned." Monterey, June 12th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Aranzazu,  Juan  Hendrick,  Captain; January 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Frigate Concepcion at anchor in Nootka harbor with Ramon Antonio Saavedra, March 7th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1794. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Princesa, January 17th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sutil, February 28th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mexicana, February 28th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Arrival of Vancouver expedition on the same date, Feby 28th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Frigate Concepcion, April 26th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mexicana at San Francisco, June 10th.  The Frigate  Concepcion wrecked off Pichilingue Bay, Lower Cal., July 5th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Saturnina, August 5th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sloop Horcasitas, August 29th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Concepcion in San Diego, Dec. 17th.  Chatham, at Monterey, Nov. 2nd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Discovery, at Monterey, Nov. 5th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Aranzazu, Oct. 22nd, at Santa Barbara; at Monterey Nov. 14. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Unknown English vessel at Santa Cruz, November 30th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>English launches arrived at Santa Cruz and precautions were taken to prevent men from landing November 30th. The English launches depart and cause no disorder; December 1st. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Frigate Aranzazu, bound  for Nootka from Monterey, July 12. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Discovery, (Eng. ship) with Vancouver on board. Expedition under Vancouver arrived the second time on November 6th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Chatham, (Am. ship) Peter Puget master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1795. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Resolution, (Eng.) Feb. 6th.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Achilles, (Eng.) May 22nd.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ph&oelig;nix, (Eng.) Sept. 10th.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Aranzazu, September 23rd.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Resolution, (Eng.) at San Diego. Oct 1st. Active, (Eng. war vessel) with an English Commissioner on board, March 3rd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Resolution, (Eng. man of war) Captain Juan Loche, seeking supplies that were furnished September 6th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1796. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spanish Frigate Concepcion from Manila, anchored at Santa Barbara, July 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sloop Loreto, July 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>399</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Sutil, arrived July 11th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Providence, (British man of war) W. Broughton, Commander, at Monterey. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1797. </P>
025.sgm:<P>American ship ---, Captain Dows forcibly put on shore eleven foreigners from his vessel, Oct. 6th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Paquebot S. Carlos, wrecked and lost in the harbor of San Francisco, March 23rd.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Concepcion and Princesa, (Spanish frigates) have come to guard the ports of California, March 7th, and April 13th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Magallanes, Spanish vessel at Santa Barbara, Dec. 5th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Goycochea, commander of Santa Barbara (Spanish war vessel) keeps guard up and down the coast, to see if they can discover the "Fama," but see nothing. </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Carlos, April 14th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Unknown large vessel seen off the coast, May 23rd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Three more large vessels seen off the coast, May 11th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spanish Frigate Princesa, at Santa Barbara, May 27. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Several vessels sighted off the coast, July 4th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Frigate Princesa seen off the coast of San Diego, July 22; and the same vessel at San Diego, October 20th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1798. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fama, (Am. ship) January 7th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Brig Active, March 31st. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Magallanes, March 31st. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Otter, Captain Ebenezer Dow. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Concepcion, October 19th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1799.  Eliza, Captain James Rowan, June 12th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eliza, (Eng. ship) Jas. Rowan, captain, writes to Pedro Alberin, Comandante of San Francisco, about getting wood and water, Nov. 10th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mercedes, (Eng. sloop of war) at San Diego, July 6th.  1800. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Betsy, (Am. vessel) at San Diego Aug. 11th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nuestra Se&ntilde;ora de la Concepcion, Spanish frigate, Aug. 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Princesa (Spanish frigate,) Aug. 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1801. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Enterprise, (Am. vessel) at San Diego, July 3rd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1803.  Alexander  (Am. vessel)  John Brown capt., at San Diego, Mar. 13th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mexican schooner San Joaquin, and Lelia Byrd, (Am. vessel,) in San Diego June 20th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Santa Ana, (Mex. schooner.) </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina, 12 guns and 62 men was ordered off the coast, but did not go Oct. 15th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alexander, (Am.) Captain Brown, Feb 7th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lelia Byrd, (Am.) Captain W. Shater, at San Diego Feb. 15th.  1804. </P>
025.sgm:<P>O'Cain, (Am. vessel) 60 men, 15 canoes, S boats, and 16 guns, went into San Quentin for repairs and provisions, when ready was ordered off the coast, but stayed until she had killed all the otter from Rosario to Santo Domingo. Mar. 24th, O'Cain, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Hazard, Sept. 6th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Active, (Eng. man-of-war) Sept. 13th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Racer, (Am.) lands soldiers at Ensenada. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1806. </P>
025.sgm:<P>O'Cain, (Am.) Jos&eacute; O'Cain, master, in San Lois Obispo Jan. 2nd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Racer, (Am.) at San Diego July 16th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juno, (Russian ship) Resanoff, captain and agent of Russian-American Fur Company, at San Francisco Apr. 16th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Peacock.  (Am.)  the captain captured three Spanish soldiers that were rescued by giving up four American prisoners. Monterey, July 15th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1807.  Racer, (Am.) at San Diego, July 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alert, Captain Caleb Winship. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>400</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>1813. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mercurio, June 19th, captured by Nicolas No&eacute;, captain of the Flora,  (Spanish war vessel) detained at Santa Barbara until Sept. 3rd, following. Jorge, captain of the Mercurio. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1814. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Isaac Todd, Captain Frazer Smith, Feb'y 21st. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Raccoon,  (Eng.)  Captain W.  Black, March 29th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1815. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Columbia, July 18th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1816. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rurick, (Russian ship) Kotzebue, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Colonel, (Eng. ship) October 10th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Extraordinary proceedings of the Lydia (Am. ship.) She was taken, off the Refugio Rancho near Santa Barbara, by Californians, who sailed with her to Monterey, with Captain Henry Gyzelaar, her master, on board, February 5th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>The Governor of the Department sets the Lydia free; she was an American smuggler, March 9th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ship Albatross, Smuggler, Captain W. Smith, January 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rubio, Kalzule, Rurick, Russian, October 15th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Suvarof Chir&iacute;kof, Ermenia, Russian ships, at San Francisco, Sept. 16th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eagle, (Am. ship) at Refugio, Wm. Heath Davis, owner and captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1817. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Caminante, Captain W. Smith Wilcox, Mar. 13th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>La Cazadora, (Spanish frigate) September 30th, at Monterey. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Padushkin, a Russian officer, came to San Francisco with small boats with a letter from St. Petersburg to the Governor, April 10th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1818. </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Ruperto, (Spanish ship) with all the crew sick with the scurvy, arrived at Monterey, February 14th.  Argentina, Santa Rosa, Hypolite Bou chard, captain, insurgent vessels or privateers, Nov. 22nd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1819. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Cossack, (ship) brings Captain Pablo de la Portilla, with troops from Mazatlan, August 17th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Carlos, (Spanish ship) with munitions of war, etc., to Monterey, Aug. 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nueva Reina de los Angeles, Aug. 10th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nueva Reina de los Angeles, at San Diego, September 6th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1821. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Frigate Rita. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Brig San Francisco Javier, Oct. 8th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>British frigate -----, May 30th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1822. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eagle,  (Am. schooner)  seized by the Government for smuggling, August 1st, and sold at auction at Santa Barbara, Nov. 8th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>San Carlos, March 10th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Apollo, Dec. 19th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1823. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Apollo, Jan. 20. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Am. ship Eagle, Captain William Heath Davis. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tartar, July 24th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Buldakof, (Russian) Aug. 31st. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Apolonia, Sept. 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Am. ship Massachusetts, Oct. 6th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mentor, Nov. 12th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1824. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Buldakof, Jan. 8th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John Begg, John Lincoln, master, Sept. 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Buldakof, Aug. 12th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rosanio, Sept. 25th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Predpriate, Oct. 8th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>French man of war Creiser, Dec. 2nd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Reina, Dec. 10th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1825. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eng. brig Eliza. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Am. brig Arab. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spanish man of war Aquiles, P. Angulo, commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Morelos, formerly San Carlos, Flaminio Agazini, commander. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>401</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Pizarro, Eng. brig. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Am. schooner Rover, J. B. R. Cooper, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Espeleta. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Battey, John Burton, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Russian Brig Elena, Moraviof, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Am. Whaler, Ploughboy, Chadwick, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sachem, (Am.) W. A. Gale, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria Ester, (Mex. brig) Davis, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eng. ship Bengal. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Apollo, whaler, at Santa Cruz.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Merope, (Eng. ship) supposed to be the Espeleta. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Kiahkta, (Russian brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Junius, (Eng. brig) Carter, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Asia, Spanish man of war, 70 guns, 400 men, Jos&eacute; Martinez, commander, surrendered at Monterey to the Mexican authorities. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Constante, Spanish man of war, surrendered with the above, and re-named Apolonia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Factor, (Am. whaler) John Alexis, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spy, (Am. schooner) George Smith, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nile, (Am. brig) Robert Forbes, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Recovery,  (Eng. whaler)  W. Fisher, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tartar, (Am. schooner) Benj. Morrell, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Santa Rosa. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Snow. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tamaahmaaha, (Am. brig) John Michi, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Washington,  (Am.  schooner)  Robert </P>
025.sgm:<P>Elwell, master, A. B. Thompson, supercargo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Huascar, (Peruvian brig) J. M. Oyague, master, W. E. P. Hartnell, passenger. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Whaleman whaler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tomasa. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Triton, Jean Opham, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Thomas, W. Clark, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1826. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sirena brought money to California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Solitude,  (Am. ship) Chas. Anderson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Blossom, (Eng. exploring) Beechey, commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Gen. Bravo, (Mex. brig) Melendez, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Washington, whaler, Wm Kelley, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Argony, (Russian brig) Inestrumo, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Paragon, (Am. whaler) David Edwards, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Olive Branch, (Eng. brig) W. Henderson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Santa Apolonia, (Mex. Schooner) Manuel Bates, master, Sanchez Ramar, supercargo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Timorelan, (Haw. brig) seal and otter hunter at Santa Barbara. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Peruvian,  (Am. whaler) Alex. Macy, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mero C. (Am. ship) Barcelo Juan, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mercury,  (Am.  whaler)  W. Austin, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Baikal, (Russian brig) Benseman, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Waverly, (Haw. brig) W. G. Dana, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Harbinger, (Am. brig) J. Steel, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Charles, Aw. whaler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Adams, (Am. ship) Danl. Fallon, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Speedy, Eng. Ship). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Courier, (Am. ship) W. Cunningham, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Inore, (Haw. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Thomas Nowlan, (Eng. ship) W. Clark, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Cyrus, (Am. schooner) David Hariens, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Theresa Maria, (Am. ship) W. Gulnac, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alliance, (Am. ship). </P>
025.sgm:<P>1827. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Blossom, (exploring expedition) Beechey, commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Harbinger, (Am.) J. Steele, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Olive Branch, (Eng.) W. Henderson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Andes, Seth Rodgers, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Paraiso. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>402</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Solitude, J. Anderson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Thomas Nowian, J. Wilson, master </P>
025.sgm:<P>Carimaca. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Magdalena. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tenieya. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Oliphant. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria Ester, David J. Holmes, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Huascar, J. M. Oyague, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Waverly, T. Robbins, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sachem, W. A. Gale, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Okhotsh, D. Zarambo, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Massachusetts. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Isabella. </P>
025.sgm:<P>H&eacute;ros, A. Duhaut-Cilly, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spy, George Smith, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Griffon. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Young Tartar. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Golovnin. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tamaahmaaha, J. Michi, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Favorite. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Baikal, Etholin, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Franklin, J. Bradshaw, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Cadboro. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Concrete. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tomasa. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Courier, W. Cunningham, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fulham, H. Virmond, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Washington, R. Ewell, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1828. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Phoenix, W. Ratiguende, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Franklin, J. Bradshaw, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clio, W. Williams, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vulture, Richard Barry, master </P>
025.sgm:<P>Funchal, S. Anderson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sucre, Melendez, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Griffon, C. Pitnack, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Andes, Seth Rodgers, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Verale, W. Deny, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fulham, H. Virmond, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Kiakhl&amacr;. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Laperin. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rascow, W. Fisher, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Guibale, T. Robbins, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Harbinger, J. Steele, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Courier, W. Cunningham, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Arab. </P>
025.sgm:<P>H&eacute;ros, A. Duhaut-Cilly, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Baikal, Etholin, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Minerva, D. Cornelio, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Huascar, J. M. Oyague, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Karimoko. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Thomas Nowlan, J. Wilson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Telemachus, J. Gillespie, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Emily Marsham, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Washington, R. Elwell, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Times, W. Ross, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Brillante, Waverly T. Robbins, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria Ester, Dav. J. Holmes, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pocahontas, J. Bradshaw, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Okhotsk, D. Zarembo, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Solitude, J. Anderson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Wilmantic, J. Bois, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1829. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Franklin, J. Bradshaw, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Andes, Seth Rodgers, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>James Coleman, Hennet, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria Ester, H. D. Fitch, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Volunteer, W. S. Hinckley, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Susana, Swain, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rosalia, Bruna Colespedriguez, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ann, Burnie, master.  American. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Indian. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vulture, Rich. Barry, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Funchal, Stephen Anderson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Dolly, W. Warden, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Planet, G. Rutter, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>J&oacute;ven Angustias. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Baikal, Benseman, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alvino. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Kiahkta. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Wilmington, John Bon, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Thomas Nowlan, J. Wilson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Warren, W. Rice, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Okhotsh, D. Zarembo, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Washington, W. Kelly, master.  Trident, Felix Esterlin, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Brookline, W. A. Gale, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tamaahmaaha, J. Michi, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Waverly, T. Robbins, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1830. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Thomas Nowlan, J. Wilson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>403</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Maria Ester, J. A. C. Holmes, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, Joseph Snook, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Cyrus, David Harriens, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Seringapatam, grounded on Blossom Rock. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Whaleman, Joseph Ruddock, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Globe, Moore, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina, C. Christen, Eulogio de C&eacute;lis, supercargo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pocahontas, John Bradshaw, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Danube, Sam Cook, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Planet, John Rutter, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Washington, R. Elwell, master, carried horses to the Sandwich Islands. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Chalcedony, Joe Steel, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Emily, took prisoners to Santa Barbara. Volunteer,  W.  S.  Hinckley,  master; carried Joaquin Solis and his suite as prisoners to San Blas (banished.)  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Brookline, Jas. O. Locke, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Convoy, (Am. brig) Perkins, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Funchal, Stephen Anderson, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jura. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Dryad, from Columbia river.  1831. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Louisa, (Am. bark) Geo. Wood, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Phoebe Ann, trades on the coast.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, John Wilson, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, W. A. Gale, supercargo.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Guadalupe, California built schooner by Joseph Chapman at San Pedro. Wm. Little, Harry Carter, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Marcus, N. S. Bassett, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Baikal, Livovich, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Globe, Moore, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Whalehound, whaler.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pocahontas, Bradshaw, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina, Holmes, master brought Government stores, and also Governor Jos&eacute; Figueroa, in 1833. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Whaleman, whaler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Convoy,  (Am. brig)  Pickens, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Urup, D. Zarembo, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Margarita, carried J. M. Padres from Monterey. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Volunteer, Jos. O. Carter, master Dryad, brought Doctor David Douglas, botanist. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fanny, whaler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Harriet, whaler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1832. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Chalcedony, J. Steel, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Quixote,  (Am. bark)  J. Meek, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>New Castle, Stephen Hersey, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Balance, Ed. Daggett, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Planet, sailed from Boston with the California.  California, W. A. Gale, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Spy. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Urup, D. Zarembo, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Crusader, (Am. brig) Thos. Hinckley, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Josephine, W. A. Richardson, master; lost at Santa Catalina Island. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Polifemia, Bradshaw, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tranquilina, Geo. Prince, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>American, whaler, Nov. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Victoria, Brewer, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bolivar, Nye, master; all men sick with the scurvy; carried horses to the Sandwich Islands. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, John Wilson, master; the fastest vessel on the coast up to the time she was beaten by the Volunteer, in 1833. </P>
025.sgm:<P>J&oacute;ven Victoriano, September. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pocahontas, Bradshaw, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Waverly, W. Sumner, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Roxana, Frank Thompson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Wm. Thompson, Stephen Potter, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Anchorite, whaler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Phoebe, whaler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Friend, L. B. Blindenberg, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1833. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina,  (Mex. brig)  J. C. Holmes, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Friend, L. B. Blindenberg, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Loriot, Gorham H. Nye, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>North America, N. Richards, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Roxana, F. Thompson, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Polifemia.  Isabel, J. C. Albert, master. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>404</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Helvetius, (Am. whaler). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Dryad, (Eng. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bolivar, Dominis, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lagoda, J. Bradshaw, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Facio, Santiago Johnson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Crusader, Thos. Hinckley, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Enriqueta, Lewis Young. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Kitty, (Am. whaler). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leonidas, formerly U. S. Dolphin, J. Malarin, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>General Jackson, (Am. whaler). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alert, Faucon, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Harriet, Blanchard Carter, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Quixote, John Meek, master, W. S. Hinckley, supercargo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fakeja, R. Smith, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, Stephen Anderson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Margarita, (Mex. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Volunteer, Shaw, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Charles Eyes, (Eng.) B. T. Chapman, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara, (Mex.) T. M. Robbins, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>California,  (Am.  ship)  Jas.  Arthur, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Baikal, Livovich, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1834. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Facio Santo, Johnson, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lagoda, J. Bradshaw, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clarita, (Mex. bark).   Avon, (Am. brig) W. S. Hinckley, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Morelos,  (Mex. sloop of war) Lieut. L. F. Manso, commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>By Chance, Hiram Covell, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pacifico, consigned to J. A. Aguirre. </P>
025.sgm:<P>J&oacute;ven Dorotea, Benito Machado, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Crusader, W. A. Richardson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, J. Wilson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Europe, properly called Urup, D. Zarembo, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Loriot, Gorham H. Nye, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>California,  (Am.  ship)  Jas.  Arthur, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Natalia, (Mex.) Juan Gomez, master. This was the brig Napoleon Bonaparte escaped on from Elba Feb. 28, 1815. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Polifemia, N. Rosenburg, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Llama, W. M. Neill, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Quixote, J. Meek, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Magruder, W. Taylor, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Refugio, (Mex.) built at San Pedro. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bonanza, (Eng. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Margarita, (Mex.) </P>
025.sgm:<P>South Carolina, Joe Steel, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Peor es Nada, (Better than Nothing) Ch. Hubbard, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Feighton. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pulga. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Steriton, Whaler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tansuero, L. Amist, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Wm. Sye, D. A. Riddle, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Marta, Tim W. Ridley, master.   Rosa, (Sardinian ship) Nic Bianchi, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1835. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Gange, H. Chaudiere, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Iolani, Jas. Rogers, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina, R. Marshall, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mariguita, Ag. Poncabar&eacute;, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pilgrim, Ed. H. Faucon, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Loriot, Gorham H. Nye, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Facio, James Johnson, master; grounded at San Pedro, and was saved by the Pilgrim. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, James Scott, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Matador, consigned to John Parrott, Leon Bonnett, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Framner. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alert, (Am. ship) Faucon, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lagoda, Bradshaw, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Peor es Nada, built at Monterey, by Joaquin Gomez. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Garrafilia. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clementine (Eng. brig) Jas. Hanley, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Liverpool packet, (Eng. whaler). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Diana, (Am. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Am. ship) Jas. Arthur, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Avon, (Am. brig) W.S. Hinckley, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Jos&eacute;,  (Peru. brig)  consigned to Miguel Pedrorena. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bolivar, (Am. brig) Dominis, master. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>405</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Margarita. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Polifemia, N. Rosenberg, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Washington, whaler. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sitka, Basilio Wacodzy, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria Teresa, (Mex. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Trinidad, (Mex. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rosa, Nic. Bianchi. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Primavera,  (Mex. brig) Carlos Bane owner and master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1836. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Hector, (Am.) Norton, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leonidas, (Mex.) Gomez, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Loriot, (Am.) J. Bancroft, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Isabella (Haw.) N. Spear, owner.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Peor es Nada, Gerald Kuppertz, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pilgrim, Faucon, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Convoy, otter hunter, (Am. brig) Bancroft, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sitka, (Russian) Basil Wacoocky, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Peacock, (U. S. sloop of war) Stribling commander; flag-ship of Commodore Kennedy. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Brixon, (Eng.) </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rasselas, (Am. ship), Carter, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Europa, (Am. ship) Winkworth, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rosa.Catalina, (Mex. brig) Snook, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1837. </P>
025.sgm:<P>City of Genoa, (Chilian) at Monterey in December. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina, (Mex. brig) Snook, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Baikal, (Russian) Stephen Vouks, master.  Alciope, (Am. ship) Curtis Clap, captain.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Harvest, (Am.) A. Cash, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Loriot, otter hunter, (Am. brig) Bancroft, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Diana, (Am. brig) W. S. Hinckley, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clementine, (Eng. brig) Handley, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Indian, (Eng. whaler) Freeman, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nancy, (brig) Fautrel, captain.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Llama, (Eng.) W. Brotchie, captain.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sarah, (Am. brig) Joseph Steel, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Veloz  Asturiano, (Ecuador) C. V. Gafan, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Venus, (French corvette) Petit Thonars, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Starling, (Eng. war vessel) Lieut. Kellert, commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sulphur, (Eng. war vessel) Edward Belcher, commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bolivar, (Am. brig) G. H. Nye, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Iolani (Haw. schooner) Paty, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Toward Castle, (Eng.) Emmett, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Pilgrim, (Am. brig) Faucon, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Crusader (Columbian) came from Callao. L </P>
025.sgm:<P>eonor, (Mex.) Chas. Wolter, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Cadboro, (Eng.) W. Brotchie, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>California,  (Mex. schooner)  H. Paty, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Kent, (Am. bark) Stickney, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>True Blue, (Haw.) Ragsdale, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Delmira, (Ecuador) Vioget, captain, M. Pedrorena, supercargo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1838. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fearnaught, (Eng. brig) R. Dare, captain and owner. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nereid, (Eng.) W. Brotchie, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Kamamalu, (Am. brig) formerly Diana, W. S. Hinckley, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alert, (Am. ship) Penhallow, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Cadboro (Eng.)Plymouth, (Am. bark) Paty, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Kent, (Am. bark) Stickney, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leonidas, (Mex. brig) Juan Malarin, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bolivar, (Am. brig) Nye, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Flibberty Gibbett, (Eng. schooner) Rodgers, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Daniel O'Connell, (Columbian) Andr&eacute;s Murcilla, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sitka, (Russian) Wacoocky, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Rasselas, (Am. ship) Barker, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina, (Mex. brig) Snook, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clarita,  (Mex.  bark)  Chas. Wolter master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>V&eacute;nus, (French man of war) October.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore Rodgers, wrecked Nov. 19th. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>406</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Sulphur, (Eng. man of war) Belcher, commander, December. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1839. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Monsoon, (Am. ship) Vincent, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Shaw, supercargo, June 2nd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, (Eng. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Corsair, (Am. brig) Wm. S. Hinckley, captain and supercargo, with full cargo of merchandise; brought the first grist-mill for Spear, from Callao. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clarita, (Mex. bark) Wolter, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina, (Mex. bark) Snook, master.   Baikal, (Russian). </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Am. ship) Arther, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bolivar, (Am. brig) Nye, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clementine, (Eng. brig) Blinn, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>John A. Sutter arrived on this ship as passenger from Hawaiian Islands.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Art&eacute;mise, (French frigate).  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria, (whaler). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Elvantes, (Peruvian). </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Mex. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sulphur,  (Eng.  man-of-war)  Belcher, commander.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Jos&eacute; (Colombian brig) Duncan, master, Pedrorena, supercargo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1840. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Daniel O'Connell, (Colombian). </P>
025.sgm:<P>U. S. sloop of war St. Louis, Forrest commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alciope, (Am. ship) Clap, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Nikolai, (Russian) Kuprianof, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Joseph Peabody,  (Am. brig) Dominis, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Union, (Am. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lausanne, (Am.) Spalding, captain.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Jos&eacute;, (Colombian brig) Thos. Duncan, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Index, (Eng bark) Scott, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Mex.) T. M. Robbins, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Monsoon, (Am. ship) Geo. Vincent, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Elena, (Russian) S. Vallivade, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Angelina, (French ship) N. Jena, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Morse, (Am. schooner)  Henry Paty, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bolivar, (Am. brig) Nye, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Forager, (Eng.) </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alert, (Am. ship) Phelps, captain.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Quixote, (Am. bark) Paty, captain. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1841. </P>
025.sgm:<P>J&oacute;ven Carolina, Colombian brig) from Guayquil, Captain Miguelon, March--- </P>
025.sgm:<P>-Maryland, (Am. schooner).  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juan Diego, (Mex. schooner).  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Llama, (Am.) Jones, captain.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Orizaba. (Mex. transport).  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Hamilton, (Am.) Hand, captain.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Cowlitz, (Eng. bark) Brotchie, captain.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lausanne. (Am.) Steel, captain.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Yorktown, U. S. man-of-war, Aulick, commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bolina, (Mex. schooner) trading on the coast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Flying Fish, (Am.) Knox, master. Lahaina, (Eng. whaler). </P>
025.sgm:<P>U. S. ship Vincennes, flag-ship of Commodore Wilkes exploring expedition. </P>
025.sgm:<P>U. S. brig Porpoise, Ringgold, commander, attached to the "Vincennes" (exploring expedition.) The sloop of war Peacock of the same expedition was lost on the Columbia River bar, and her officers and crew were rescued by the other vessels before mentioned. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Columbia, (Eng. bark) Humphries, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Julia Ann, (Am. schooner) from New York, Wm. A. Leidesdorff, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>George  Henry,  (Am.  bark)  Stephen Smith, owner and master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eliza, French whaler, Malherbe, master.  Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina,  (Mex. brig) Chris. Hansen, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Chato, (Mex. brig) Machado, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tasso, (Am. bark) Hastings, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bolivar, (Am. brig) G. H. Nye, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Mex. Government schooner) Cooper, master. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>407</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Don Quixote, (Am. bark) Paty, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clarita, (Mex. bark) Wolter, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alert, (Am. ship) Phelps, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Leonidas, (Mex. brig) Stokes, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1842. </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Mex. Government schooner) Cooper, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Primavera, (Mex. brig) A. Chienes, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Llama, (Am.) Jones, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Index, (Eng. bark) Wilson, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Esmeralda,  (Mex. brig)  Hugo Reid, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fama, (Am. ship) Hoyer, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Constante, (Chilian ship) F. Unamano, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Bolivar, (Am. brig) G. H. Nye, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>United States, Commodore Jones' flag ship, Captain Armstrong commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Cyane, (U. S. ship of war) Stribling, commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Palatina, (Mex.) came from the Mexican Coast. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Relief, (U. S. store ship) J. Sterrett, commander. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tasso, (Am. bark) Hastings, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina, (Mex. brig) Hansen, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alert, (Am. ship) Phelps, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Jenny, (Hamburg ship) John Mein, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Republicano,  (Mex,  brig)  Machado, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>J&oacute;ven Fanita, (Mex. schooner) Limantour, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana, (Mex. bark) Snook, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fernando, (Mex. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Quixote, (Am. bark) Paty, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clarita, (Mex. bark) Wolter, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Chato,  (Mex. ship) brought General Micheltorena and landed him and his troops at San Diego. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Julia Ann, (Am. schooner) Leidesdorff, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maryland, (Am. brig) Blinn, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alex. Barclay, (German whaler).  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Barnstable, (Am. ship) Hatch, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1843. </P>
025.sgm:<P>George Henry, (Am. bark) from Peru, with Mrs. Smith, her mother and Manuel Torres, as passengers, Stephen Smith, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fanny, Feby. 1st. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Quixote, (Am. bark) John Paty, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vandalia, (Am. ship) Everett, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1844. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vandalia, (Am. ship) Everett, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Constantine, (Chilian ship) Feb. 27th.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Mex. Government schooner) Cooper, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Sterling,  (Am. ship) Vincent, master, </P>
025.sgm:<P>March 29th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Julia, Dalton, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juanita, (Eng. schooner) Wilson, Oct. 11. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fama, (Am. ship) G. H. Nye, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Trinidad, Oct. 11. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clarita, (Mex. bark) J. Vioget, master, Sept. 5th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Am. ship) Arther, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1845. </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Am. ship) Arther, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana, (Mex. bark) Orbell, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tasso, (Am. bark) Hastings, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria, Dec. 19th, F. W. Holstein, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Matador, Natchin, master, Oct. 30th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Cowlitz, (Eng. bark) Brotchie, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Primavera, (Mex. brig) Chienes, master, May 23rd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Julia, Dalton, master, Sept. 29th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Star of the West, lost off Monterey Bay (already mentioned). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Argo. Whaler, Oct. 23rd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Fama, (Am. ship) G. H. Nye, master, May 28th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Vandalia, (Am. ship) Everett, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Juanita, (Eng. schooner) Wilson, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Clarita, (Mex. bark) J. Vioget, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Catalina, (Mex. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Farisco, Yndarte, master, Oct. 2nd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1846. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Don Quixote, (Haw. bark) John Paty, master, March 10th. </P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>408</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>Euphemia, (Haw. brig) Thos. Russom, master, March 31st. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Moscow, (Am. bark) W. D. Phelps, master, March 10th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Alfredo, March 2nd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Angola, (Am. bark) S. Varney, master June 17th.  Fanny, whaler, Feby. 3rd. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Hannah, (Am. brig) March 25th. John F. Schander, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria Teresa, May 11th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>California, (Mex. Government schooner) Cooper, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1847. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore Shubrick,  (Am. schooner) </P>
025.sgm:<P>July 6th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>T. H. Benton, (Am.) July 21st. </P>
025.sgm:<P>An&auml;is, (French) July 21st. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Providence, (Am. schooner) July 24th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Euphemia, (Haw. brig) Russom, master, November. </P>
025.sgm:<P>J&oacute;ven Guipuzcoana, Mex. bark). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Barnstable, (Am. ship) Hall, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mathilde, (Danish). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mary Ann, (Haw. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Laura Ann, (Eng. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>William, (Am. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eveline, (Am. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Primavera, (Mex. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Malek Adhel, (Am. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Maria Helena, (Chilian vessel). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Commodore Shubrick,  (Am. schooner) </P>
025.sgm:<P>November 13th. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Anita. (Am. bark). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Tonica, (Am. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Henry, (Am. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Currency Lass, (French schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Elizabeth, (Am. brig) Cheevers, master.  </P>
025.sgm:<P>Angolo, (Am. bark) S. Varney, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>1848. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Laura Ann, (Eng brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Euphemia, (Haw. brig) Russom, master. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Malek Adhel, (Am. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Charles, (Am. ship) David Carter, supercargo. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Natalia, (Chilian bark) Juan Manuel Luco, supercargo and owner. </P>
025.sgm:<P>S. S. (Haw. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Lady Adams, (Am. brig) Coffin, supercargo. James Lick came in her as a passenger from Callao, Peru. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Eveline, (Am. brig). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Starling, (Haw.) </P>
025.sgm:<P>Anita,  (Am.  bark)  Quarter-master's vessel. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Louisa, (Haw.) </P>
025.sgm:<P>La Flecha, (Spanish). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Adeaida, (Chilian). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Providence. (Am. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>Mary, (Haw. schooner). </P>
025.sgm:<P>After the receipt Of the list Of arrivals of vessels from Mr. Forbes,it reminded me of revising my former estimate Of the exports of hides and tallow from 1828 to 1847, a period of twenty years, of thirty-three vessels with cargoes in the aggregate of 1,068,000 hides.  I have taken the year 1800, the time the missions were fairly started in the raising of live stock, down to their impoverishment; but the enterprise was continued by the haciendados in the only wealth of the department as already mentioned. I find in the list before me, that the vessels were numerous, which visited California in those primitive days. I have taken the years 1800 to 1847, and I find the arrivals were six hundred vessels of all sizes and nationalities. In my conjecture I take only two hundred of them, which is certainly a liberal deduction, and allow to each one thousand hides exported yearly. This will give a total of 9,400,000 hides for two hundred vessels for forty-seven years.  The tallow that was exported during the same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>409</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>The readers can judge for themselves which of the two will give the most knowledge concerning those articles which constituted the leading commerce in the primitive days of the Department of California. </P>
025.sgm:<P>Anterior to the year 18oo there were many cattle slaughtered by the missions; surely the hides and tallow as articles of commerce from time immemorial, were not thrown to the wild beasts of the forest to feed on, but were bought by merchants and traders and shipped to different parts of the world, as the memorandum of shipping on my table, will fully attest. </P>
025.sgm:<P>END.</P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>411</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV TYPE="bib"><HEAD>BIBLIOGRAPHY </HEAD>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>413</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<P>BIBLIOGRAPHY <LB>     FOR those wishing to acquire a more detailed knowledge of early California days the following books are recommended.  Many have  appeared  in  reprint, although the original edition is preferable. The dates given indicate the first edition. <LB>BANCROFT, HUBERT H., <HI REND="italics">History of the Pacific States</HI>
025.sgm:.1882-91. <LB>BARRY AND PATTEN'S, <HI REND="italics">Men and Memories of San Francisco</HI>
025.sgm:. 1873. <LB>BRYANT, EDWIN, <HI REND="italics">What I saw in California</HI>
025.sgm:. 1848. <LB>CENTURY MAGAZINE, <HI REND="italics">Vols. XVII and XIX</HI>
025.sgm:. <LB>COLTON, WALTER, <HI REND="italics">Three Years in California</HI>
025.sgm:. 1850. <LB>COLTON, WALTER, <HI REND="italics">Deck and Port</HI>
025.sgm:. 1850. <LB>DANA, RICHARD H. JR., <HI REND="italics">Two Years before the Mast</HI>
025.sgm:. 1840. <LB>ELDREDGE, ZOETH, <HI REND="italics">The Beginnings of San Francisco</HI>
025.sgm:.1912. <LB>FR&Eacute;MONT, JOHN C., <HI REND="italics">Memoir of my Life</HI>
025.sgm:. 1887. <LB>KOTZEBUE, OTTO VON, <HI REND="italics">New Voyage Around the World</HI>
025.sgm:. 1821. <LB>PAL&Oacute;U, <HI REND="italics">Life of Jun&iacute;pero Serra</HI>
025.sgm:. 1787. <LB>REVERE, JOSEPH WARREN, <HI REND="italics">A Tour of Duty</HI>
025.sgm:. 1849 <LB>ROBINSON, ALFRED, <HI REND="italics">Life in California</HI>
025.sgm:. 1846. <LB>SHERMAN, WM. T., <HI REND="italics">Memoirs</HI>
025.sgm:. 1875. <LB>SOUL&Eacute;, FRANK ET AL., <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francisco</HI>
025.sgm:. 1855. <LB>TAYLOR, BAYARD, <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
025.sgm:. 1850. <LB>WISE, LIEUT. HENRY A., <HI REND="italics">Los Gringos</HI>
025.sgm:. 1849. <LB>The Life of Jun&iacute;pero Serra may be read in the English translation by George Wharton James.</P>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>436</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX </HEAD>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>417</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>438</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>418</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>439</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>419</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>420</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>441</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>421</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>422</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
025.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>425</PRINTPGNO>
025.sgm:<DIV><P>IN ALL TWENTY-TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY COPIES OF "SEVENTY-FIVE YEARS IN CALIFORNIA" HAVE BEEN PRINTED AND THE TYPE DISTRIBUTED. </P>
025.sgm:<P>TWO THOUSAND COPIES, MAKING UP THE LIBRARY EDITION, HAVE BEEN PRINTED UPON "DRESDEN" PAPER: THE ARGONAUT EDITION, LIMITED TO ONE HUNDRED COPIES AND NUMBERED FROM 150 TO 250, AND THE AUTHOR'S SECTION OF THE ARGONAUT EDITION, LIMITED TO FIFTY COPIES AND NUMBERED FROM 101 TO 150, HAVE BEEN PRINTED UPON "UTOPIAN" PAPER; AS HAVE ALSO THE EDITIONS DENOTED; THE EL Do&ntilde;aDO, NUMBERED FROM 46 TO 100; THE PIONEER, NUMBERED FROM 26 TO 45; THE CALIFORNIA COLLECTORS', NUMBERED FROM 4 TO 25. </P>
025.sgm:<P>IN ADDITION TO THE ABOVE THERE IS AN EDITORIAL COPY, A PUBLISHER'S COPY, AND THE PRESIDENTIAL COPY DESTINED FOR THE LIBRARY OF PRESIDENT-ELECT HERBERT HOOVER, TO WHOM THE BOOK IS DEDICATED BY PERMISSION. </P>
025.sgm:<illus entity="a025-0058" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">THE CALIFORNIAS:  OLD AND NEW</HI>
025.sgm:<P>NOTICE </P>
025.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Upon this map are inscribed the names of all the Islands, Capes, Rivers, and other things; this was done solely to show where the V. P. Junipero Serra went, and the location of the Missions he founded in new California, of which he was president.  The longitude is based upon the Meridian of San Blas.  Engraved by Diego Trancoso, Mexico, 1787</HI>
025.sgm:<P>This very interesting chart is one of the three illustrations in the Life of Junipero Serra by Francico Palou, which noted biography is the source of much of our knowledge of the founding of the California Missions.  The book is both rare and extremely valuable.  Palou has been justly called Serra's Boswell.  This early map, showing the results of Padre Junipero Serra's life work, very properly finds a place in "Seventy-five Years in California," the intimate record of William Heath Davis. </P>
025.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHTED BY JOHN HOWELL, 1928. </P>
026.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-026</TITLE>
026.sgm:<TITLE>Pioneer notes from the diaries of Judge Benjamin Hayes, 1849-1875: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
026.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
026.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
026.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
026.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
026.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>29-14767</LCCN>
026.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
026.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 10159</COPYRIGHT>
026.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<P>PIONEER NOTES</p> <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<illus entity="a026-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MRS. EMILY MARTHA HAYES AND SON CHAUNCEY<LB><HI REND="italics">For whose entertainment the Notes were written</HI>
026.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<P>PIONEER NOTES<LB>FROM THE<LB>DIARIES OF JUDGE BENJAMIN HAYES<LB>1849-1875</p><P>Privately Printed at<LB>Los Angeles<LB>1929</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<P>Copyright, 1929, by Marjorie Tisdale Wolcott</p><P>Edited and Published by Marjorie Tisdale Wolcott</p><P>Text by the McBride Printing Company Los Angeles, California</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
026.sgm:<P><HSEP>Page<LB><HSEP>Foreword<HSEP>ix<LB>I<HSEP>THE PIONEER COMES WEST<HSEP>13<LB>II<HSEP>THE END OF THE EMIGRANT TRAIL<HSEP>48<LB>III<HSEP>Los ANGELES IN THE FIFTIES<HSEP>75<LB>IV<HSEP>SAN DIEGO AND SAN BERNARDINO, 1856-1857<HSEP>110<LB>V<HSEP>THE DEATH OF MRS. HAYES JUDICIAL NOTES<HSEP>166<LB>VI<HSEP>SAN DIEGO IN 1860-1861; LOWER CALIFORNIA AFFAIRS<HSEP>191<LB>VII<HSEP>THE JOURNEY OF LIFE<HSEP>250<LB>VIII<HSEP>LATER SAN DIEGO NOTES<HSEP>285<LB><HSEP>INDEX<HSEP>303</p></DIV>
026.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS</HEAD>
026.sgm:<P>MRS. EMILY MARTHA HAYES AND SON CHAUNCEY<HSEP>Frontispiece<LB><HSEP>Facing Page<LB>BENJAMIN HAYES<HSEP>16<LB>ONE OF THE NOTEBOOKS<HSEP>32<LB>LAS FLORES RANCH HOUSE<HSEP>64<LB>TEMECULA<HSEP>64<LB>THE ORIGINAL PLAZA CHURCH, LOS ANGELES<HSEP>80<LB>FATHER BLAS RAHO<HSEP>96<LB>THE HOME OF DON JUAN ABILA, SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO<HSEP>112<LB>SAN GABRIEL MISSION CHART OF RANCHOS HAVING CHAPELS<HSEP>160<LB>LOS ANGELES IN 1857<HSEP>176<LB>CAMPAIGN HANDBILL OF 1858<HSEP>192<LB>SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO MISSION IN 1865<HSEP>208<LB>SAN LUIS REY MISSION IN 1865<HSEP>208<LB>LOS NOGALES RANCH HOUSE<HSEP>256<LB>SAN JOSE DE ABAJO RANCH HOUSE<HSEP>256<LB>BENJAMIN HAYES<HSEP>288</p></DIV>
026.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<DIV><P>Foreword</p><P>Benjamin Ignatius Hayes was born in Baltimore, Maryland, on February 14, 1815.  He graduated from St. Mary's College, Baltimore, and Was admitted to the Maryland bar at the age of twenty-four.  Shortly afterwards he Went to Missouri, practising law at Liberty during the early forties. With Two associates he then commenced the publication of a temperance journal at St. Louis.  Many years were to pass before the Eighteenth Amendment, and the little fledgling seems to have died of malnutrition.  Friendships were formed, howeVer, during the Missouri days with many men who later attained national prominence.</p><P>Arriving in Los Angeles in February, 1850, Mr. Hayes was elected County Attorney, a prosecuting officer then provided by law.  A month after his arriVal he formed a partnership with Jonathan R. Scott, resigning as County Attorney in September, 1851.  At the election of 1852, he was elected the first Judge of the Southern District of California, including Los Angeles and San Diego counties. He held the office until January 1, 1864, when he was succeeded by Don Pablo de la Guerra, and when Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties were added to the district. There were three towns in Southern California at that time, Los Angeles, San Diego, and San Bernardino. The district Court convened on the third Mondays of March, July, and November in Los Angeles, of April, August, and December in San Diego, and of February, May, and October in San Bernardino.  There were no railroads, and the District Judge journeyed about by carriage, on horseback, or on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
026.sgm:. It was his duty to administer justice during the difficult transition period following the years in which Mexican authority had broken down completely. He remained a highly respected jurist after leaving the bench, spending much of his time at San Diego during his later years, but eventually returning to his former home at the Hotel Lafayette in Los Angeles, where he died at the age of sixty-two, On August 4, 1877.</p><P>Judge Hayes was married on November 15, 1848, at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:St. Louis, Missouri, to Emily Martha Chauncey, daughter of John and Cordelia F. Chauncey.  Mrs. Hayes was born in Harford County, Maryland, and was taken when a small child to Missouri, where her father resided for many years. She died in Los Angeles on September 12, 1857, at the age of thirty-six.  They were the parents of two children.  A little daughter, Sarah Louisa, born on April 22, 1855, lived only a few hours.  John Chauncey Hayes, born in Los Angeles on April 27, 1853, is now residing at Oceanside, where he has been City Judge for many years.  He married Do&ntilde;a Felipa, a daughter of Don Sylvester Marron of Rancho Agua Hedionda, and they have a large family.</p><P>Two of Judge Hayes's sisters also came to Los Angeles. Helena J. Hayes married Benjamin S. Eaton at Liberty, Missouri, in 1848, and died in Los Angeles in 1859.  Mr. Eaton was the first District Attorney of Los Angeles County and shared with B. D. Wilson the title Father of Pasadena. Their son Fred is a former Mayor of Los Angeles.  After teaching in the first public school in the city, Louisa Hayes became the wife of Dr. John S. Griffin, another prominent pioneer.</p><P>On August 2, 1866, Judge Hayes and Do&ntilde;a Adeleida Serrano were married at Old San Diego by the Rev. Father N. Duran.  Do&ntilde;a Adeleida was a daughter of Don Jos&eacute; Ant&oacute;nio Serrano and Do&ntilde;a Nievas Aguilar de Serran&ograve;. Their only child, Mary Adeleida, survived her parents but died in early womanhood.</p><P>The notebooks from which these <HI REND="italics">Notes</HI>
026.sgm: are taken are in the possession of J. Chauncey Hayes, Jr.  The mind of Judge Hayes was an encyclopedia of information about California history.  He made upwards of a hundred scrapbooks, none of which deals with any one period of time and all of which contain interesting material, although many are clippings only.  The collection was secured by H. H. Bancroft, including some of the material in these <HI REND="italics">Notes</HI>
026.sgm:, which Judge Hayes rewrote at Mr. Bancroft's request.  To study, edit, and publish the entire collection will be an arduous and expensive task.</p><P>Everything of possible interest in the notebooks mentioned is included.  There is considerable repetition in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Notes</HI>
026.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<P>PIONEER NOTES FROM THE DIARIES OF JUDGE BENJAMIN HAYES<LB>THE PIONEER COMES WEST</p><P>The Clay company started from Liberty on August 12, 1849, and left the line of the State on the 15th.  They reached Council Grove on the 21st.  This was the place of rendezvous.  Here they united with the Daviess County company, and with the Platte City company at Diamond Spring.  Jeffreys was wounded on September 12th at the Lower Spring, in consequence of which they stayed there three days.  They then moved fifteen miles further and stayed three days, for the same reason.  At the Middle Spring they remained nine days, and again afterward, from the same cause.  They reached Galisteo on the 12th October.  Between the line and Council Grove, they had a great deal of rain; again at Lost Spring, and at Lower Spring. At the upper crossing of the Cimarron, they had a tremendous storm, with thunder and lightning; same at Ash Point, 2 miles from Pawnee Fork, and on the Cottonwood; a light snow on Red River the first frost at Rabbit Ear Creek, near the Round Mound.  These rains made the road very heavy for them.  They notice that they have had about as much rain as is common in Upper Missouri, at this season. Hunting buffalo broke down many of their animals.  At Cottonwood one horse was stolen by Indians, and several ropes cut at the same time.</p><P>I started from Independence on September 10th, Lewis, a slave belonging to the family, accompanying me six miles, to aid in getting a fair start for the mules.  He led the pack mule.  I then said goodbye to Lewis, who seemed affected, and threw myself, alone, upon the road to "El Dorado." I had not gone far, before I found myself going over the head of my mule, my gun going one way, and the mule <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:another.   I caught the pack mule, who had turned its pack under its belly, and a servant at a neighboring house ran after the other and caught it at a creek where it had stopped to drink.  This occasioned considerable delay; in fine, I was off again.  Just after dark I made for a light--having taken the wrong road--at a nearby place just below the house another stampede of the riding-mule; over his head again.  In the meantime, my right hand had become very sore, "burnt" by the new rope running through it.  I went up to the house--made known my disasters--could lodge there for the night--and the proprietor, for five dollars, went back for the mule, while his good lady, with some preparation she had, attended to my hand.  In the morning, mule and hand all right again, and my host guided me to the main road three or four miles distant. I remember an observation of his as we rode along:</p><P>"How easy I could kill you now, and nobody would ever know it!"</p><P>A lonesome ride all day, after I left him and turned to say Adieu to my State and <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
026.sgm: I left behind.  I stayed this night very comfortably at the house of a Shawnee. Had to go about a good deal to find him, which I did finally at a log-raising.  Treated with much politeness and good fare, charge only one dollar.  Just as I was packing up, Shields, who was my messmate to Council Grove, came along.</p><P>"Do you know," he said one night when we were in the "Indian country," "I am, for a little man, one of the stoutest in this part of the country." Shields, a very hard swearer, but "a mule tries a man's patience."</p><P>Joining Houck at 2 P.M. of the 14th, encamped at Dickerson's Spring.  (Dickerson is with us, the finder of this water several years since.)  Next night camped on a ridge, the next on Turkey Creek.  Found mosquitoes bad here, had to raise a fire against them.  To-day had passed Cottonwood-large cottonwood trees--2 antelope in sight--17th crossed Little and Big Turkey Creeks.  Halted at 10 A.M. for breakfast.  There saw the first buffalo, three small herds at some distance.  Crossed the Little Arkansas; camped at Owl Creek.  18th crossed Little and Big Cow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:Creeks; breakfast; start at 2 P.M.; many buffalo in sight, Capt. Houck shot one, my hatchet ruined in the butchering. Camped on Big Arkansas.  Mode of marching after leaving Council Grove--corral-guard duty, etc.</p><P>Sept. 19th: Capt. H. shot another buffalo.  Crossed Walnut Creek and breakfasted on Arkansas.  Started at 2 P.M.  Commenced raining late in the afternoon.  Pawnee Rock in sight for a long time, camped near it.  Next day crossed Pawnee Fork.  Jones's creek too high to cross to-night. Camped.</p><P>Sept. 21st: Camped on Coon Creek.  Indian alarm--double the guard--had to lend Shields some percussion caps--his delay in sallying out with the rest.  Was it wolves that caused the alarm?  Some of the old travellers along thought so.  I will have singular impressions of that anxious night. Habits of the buffalo--jerking the meat--dog villages--a hawk--the flowers.</p><P>22nd: Travelled up the Arkansas, overtook the troops. Next day encamped for breakfast within five miles of Fort Mann. The person for whom it was named will be well recollected by those acquainted at Weston, Mo. Incident of the Mexican War here.  In the afternoon passed the Fort, getting some wood there.  Camped five miles beyOnd it.</p><P>24th: Breakfasted within six miles of the crossing of the Arkansas.  Crossed it, camped on other side.  Merritt Young. Shields remains.</p><P>25th: Stay here till late in afternoon.  Old friends.  Returning emigrants.  Sam Hayes must go back to his beautiful wife. Rumors from California. Buffalo grass. Houck was with the first waggon that ever passed this road.  Former profitable commerce, for this and all other matters, see Gregg's <HI REND="italics">Commerce of the Prairies</HI>
026.sgm:.  To-night camped five miles from Arkansas.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:, fine bread, good coffee and fresh antelope, the best meal I have had on the road.  You may well believe my modesty did not restrain me from availing myself fully of their hospitality.</p><P>Merritt Young informs me that     ----- Jeffrys, of Grand River, a member of the Clay company, was badly wounded by a pistol going off, in mounting his horse.  The wound was so bad as to delay the company, who are now 70 miles from here. We shall overtake them very easily in a few days, although Mr. Houck will not travel now as fast as he has done.  His animals have suffered somewhat from the trip.</p><P>My mules are in tolerable order, considering all circumstances. We have averaged about 28 miles, or a little more, a day.</p><P>On Saturday night we reached the troops, but started ahead of them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<P>9th: 12 miles to breakfast on a branch.  Wood plenty for the first time since we left Fort Mann.  Camped at the Moro, Mexican women washing in creek, pleasant to see any women!  Houck's anxiety here about Indians--careful guard--settlers--adventure of Lt. Beale and Andrew Sublette here once--the Taos "insurrection"--Romulus Culver--At the branch where we camped to-day much stunted cedar along ca&ntilde;on, picturesque.</p><P>10th: Started before daylight, breakfasted at eight, hence to Bagos, and dined.  Staid two hours.  Sight of the Star Spangled Banner.  Troops here, near the Moro a small detachment of dragoons passed us going out on the plains scouting. We also met Mann and two others going in with mail near Waggon Mound.  At Bagos fandango, intemperance, visit to look at the Church.</p><P>11th: Breakfasted at Tacolot&eacute;.  Six miles further, camped at Bernal Spring.  Rested here till 3 P.M. of next day, visit to a family, pictures.  Thence to San Miguel; here we had rain.  Crops of corn and wheat here.  Next day camped six miles beyond San Jos&eacute;. 14th: At light drove up the mules to start, when it began to snow quite hard.  Snowed till mid-day, when the sun appeared for awhile.  Late in the afternoon drove the mules amongst the cedars, some 200 yards from the road, for shelter and fresh grass.  Snow by this time nearly gone in the valley.  Made large fires; got along pleasantly enough.</p><P>15th: Travelled to Old Pecos. Ruins--Montezuma--visit to ruins (see Emory etc).  Met Hon. ----- Smith and company going to Washington City.  Passed the forks of the road, One of which leads to Santa F&eacute;, took the one to Galisteo.  Camped on the top of the hill or mountain. Grand grass.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<P>16th: Ground frozen, some ice in our camp, in kettle standing out last night ice 1/2 inch thick.  Aroused early, fed the mules on corn.  Three miles down the mountain for breakfast.  Camped for the night without travelling far.</p><P>17th: Fed on corn, after five miles bore off from the road some 200 yards for grass, camped within a mile of Galisteo. Remained till near night, then moved further for better grass.</p><P>18th: In camp.  Wind quite high.  Snowed fast till dark.</p><P>19th: Morning quite cold but by midday the snow, that had been three inches deep, melted off.  Crops of corn in this neighborhood.  My acquaintance with Se&ntilde;or Baca, pleasant.  Difficult to get anything here.  The Clay company--Cooper's company--refitting--sale of waggons--pleasure of meeting so many old acquaintances--intervisits--errors of emigrants--losses--our dinner of parched corn--fine grazing here.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Memorandum</HI>
026.sgm::  After leaving Council Grove, we did not see an Indian.  Glorious mirage when near the Arkansas one afternoon.  Entrance of John Phillips and young Clay into our camp, and the alarm, the night before we camped at Ocat&eacute;  The life of John subsequently at San Francisco and Los Angeles; shared crackers with him when he left Ocat&eacute; for Santa F&eacute;.  Houck's extreme <HI REND="italics">caution</HI>
026.sgm:.  Meeting with Judge Brown, alone, on the road.  Houck's account of the fate of a number of the early traders he had known.</p><P>Distance, 775 miles from Independence to Galisteo).</p><P>On the morning of October 17th, we arrived within two miles of Galisteo.  A small train of waggons was passing over the hill as we approached.  This was a portion of the Clay company on their way to Santa F&eacute; to dispose of their waggons and prepare for packing. Our camp having been formed, several of the company soon left for the capital to procure the necessary supplies for our further progress.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:With a single exception or two the people of Galisteo possess little more than a sufficiency for their own wants.  In the whole town a sheep could not be bought, nor flour, nor bread, not even the onion so constantly offered you at other places.  There is fine water here. The wood for our fires had been brought in the waggons. As in most other villages on the Rio Grande, it is sold in the town three or four small sticks for a dime.  One of our number estimated this to be about $150 per cord.  We found better grass in the afternoon, by moving the camp a quarter of a mile.  The air was pleasant all day.</p><P>During the day some gentlemen of the Clay company came over to make arrangement for joining us, from whom we learned that most of them had determined to pack from Santa F&eacute;, while a few thought of buying Mexican oxen here, to be driven as far as possible, in the meantime turning out their jaded mules to recruit for the residue of the journey, if the oxen should fail.  The New Mexicans asked $40 a yoke, a price three times beyond what they had been led to expect by the erroneous impressions made in the States in regard to every thing that interests the emigrant.</p><P>Four messes finally joined our trains, first lightening their waggons somewhat.  The rest sold their wagons and harness for from four to six mules, for $40, the cost of the harness alone.  The original cost of such waggons was from $120 to $150.  A few minutes after such a sale the New Mexican purchaser would demand $20 for a single set of harness.  Their delays upon the road had already caused them considerable losses.</p><P>At midnight the sky was thickly clouded.  The snow began to fall early next morning and continued through the day, covering the ground an inch deep. A <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
026.sgm: was procured and a volunteer corps soon from the neighboring mountain brought in wood enough to last during our stay. A cold day, with a strong wind.  McWilliams and Higgins dug them a burrow in the sandy soil, some two or three feet deep and about eight feet square, over which was spread a piece of sheeting; a patent chimney carried off the smoke, and neither snow nor wind reached them.  I sat there very comfortably without a fire and finished the latter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:half of Col. Cooke's interesting journal. Most of us assembled around the `large fire of Capt. `H. and made a hearty dinner of parched corn, for we had no flour.  Afterward, one introduced pinole, another rice and tea, and another ventured on a little bacon and coffee.  The afternoon wore away pleasantly, with the stories of adventure on mountain and plain, of which many a one might have said <HI REND="italics">magna pars fui</HI>
026.sgm:.  Before night the corral was formed in the shape of a half-moon, and all the stocks, without their lariats, brought up close behind it to shield them from the storm. About dark they were moved over to a large corral hired in town, under a guard of eight men. The rest of us remained at camp. The night quite cold; the snow had ceased, and an occasional glimpse of the stars gave promise of a fair day.</p><P>Oct. 19th: The sky clear, the air pleasant, and the snow entirely melted before noon.  We would have moved to-day, but provisions did not arrive till late at night.</p><P>The animals were twice fed yesterday on corn chopped on the cob, the soft cob being nearly as good as grass.  At this season all the corn is soft enough to admit being fed in this manner. The corn was excellent, even the sandy hollows producing well. They had a great deal of rain this year. This corn land had not been irrigated.  The immediate neighborhood of Galisteo is not so desirable for grazing as formerly, but within 10 miles, on any other part of this plain, there is an abundance of the best ground. Hence this point will generally be made by emigrants on this route, with the view of recruiting their stock.  They cannot go to Santa F&eacute; for that purpose, and this is near enough to obtain from that city many of the supplies they may need, although we did not succeed over well in this respect.  We had been led to suppose that we would be able to buy of the officers of the U. S. good American flour and bacon.  The latter article we did get, but in the place of the former a musty article wholly unfit for use.  I saw 200 lbs. bought for Mr. Houck, which, when sifted, turned out about one-third dirt, no doubt condemned flour.  I recommend the emigrant to bring with him sufficient bacon for the whole trip. Making <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:"a virtue of necessity," we bought the flour manufactured in New Mexico at all the principal towns from Santa F&eacute; to San Antonio.  When sifted it makes good bread; will answer very well when not sifted.  It is wholesome and one soon becomes reconciled to it.</p><P>The following prices were paid for some articles bought at Santa F&eacute;, viz:  American flour, per lb., 8 cents.; bacon, 18 3/4; coffee, 20; sugar, 25; tea, $1.50; saleratus, 37 1/2; buckshot 37 1/2; a small tin cup, 25; pack-saddles, $4.50, inferior at that.  These are the ordinary prices and, all things considered, are not high.  An emigrant will have to decide whether he cannot better afford to pay them, than to pack such articles from the States as he may require for the journey from Santa F&eacute; to San Diego, Los Angeles, or the nearest mines.</p><P>The road immediately along the river presents inducements to some, but I doubt if it be advantageous either to the purse or the discipline of a company, owing to the numerous delays so apt to occur.  Mr. Houck preferred what is called the Manzana route.  This strikes the Rio Grande a short distance above La Joya.  It is nearer, and better on account of being less sandy, and also free from the irrigating canals that cut up the cultivated country on the river.</p><P>At Galisteo we got no fresh meat.  I made here the acquaintance of Don Manuel Baca, whom I found to be very gentlemanly.  He speaks English well, and Latin.  In reference to the composition of our company, it is worthy of remark that Marshall, when 17 years of age, had crossed with Becknell, 1822, three years after Capt. Houck went with the first waggon train, the same that mainly made the present Santa F&eacute; trail.  Capt. Houck has travelled the road in all 16 times, Harry Miller 5 times, Hambright often and has often trapped amongst the Crows and Blackfeet.  At Galisteo I found the people pleasant and polite, hospitable and kind.  Here I ate my first <HI REND="italics">tortilla</HI>
026.sgm:, and when I was hungry too.  What with what Rumor said of the cholera at Chihuahua and of the Indians having cut off some bands of emigrants, our prospect was a little tinged with evil.</p><P>The messes of Thos. Burnett, F. Smith, Garrett Long, and W. Hines finally joined us, and on the morning of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:pounds of biscuit, my first experiment in that line and a failure, so the mess pronounced.</p><P>Upon the plain we have passed the time will come when wells will be dug, timber planted, and a pastoral people flourish in comfort and happiness, where now all is a vast solitude.</p><P>On the 23d with clear and pleasant weather we proceeded eight miles to Quarra. This is an old Indian village, inhabited by a couple of families and situated in a body of pi&ntilde;on, cedar, and long-leafed pine.  Some onions, a brace of chickens, and five eggs were all the provisions they had to spare.  A few pi&ntilde;on nuts were offered by men from a neighboring rancho.  The Church is built of small rocks and the lofty walls are still standing, their purpose only discoverable from the form of the building and a wooden cross erected in the middle of the grass-carpeted floor. A beautiful rivulet and an excellent spring supply the water for household use and their single cornfield.  The principal reason for stopping here was to visit Manzana, an Indian village of about one hundred families distant 2 1/2 miles. There abundance reigns, it is said--at least of corn, every house full of it, piles out of doors, and the <HI REND="italics">carretas</HI>
026.sgm: continually bringing in more from the fields.  Enough was obtained for our company (but some of it frostbitten) at $2 per <HI REND="italics">fanega</HI>
026.sgm:.  The animals were fed regularly on corn, in addition to the fine grass of this region.  The cross-roads here might induce one to think we were in a thickly-settled country.  Cooper's company had already passed in advance of us.  A <HI REND="italics">fanega</HI>
026.sgm: is about three bushels.  The church at Quarra is said to have been built 150 years ago.  In the afternoon, proceeded over the uneven road eight miles and camped among the thick cedar, kindling large fires to aid the guard, as the mules were prone to wander off through the trees and bushes.  Completely sheltered, we passed a comfortable night.  No water.</p><P>The next morning, in seven miles, we breakfasted at the deserted village of Abo.  Its church is similar to that of Quarra; the walls of some of the houses remain.  It must have been a laborious undertaking to build these two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:churches.  The town was on a hill, at the foot of which flows a rock-bed stream of pure water, lined by the broad-spreading bitter cottonwood, whose branches bend low down and almost hide the stream.  One involuntarily remarks, "a most beautiful spot!"</p><P>Leaving the stream, which is soon lost in the sand, the ca&ntilde;on gradually widens out, displaying a level bottom through which winds our road.  The hills on either side thrown about in confusion, sometimes dotted with cedar, again looking like bare masses of iron.  After a toilsome ride of twenty miles from Abo, we reached the valley of the Rio Grande, and camped about eight miles from the river.  The remarkable rocky basin called, I believe, Juan Lujan, and sometimes the Hole in the Rock, sunk many feet deep, probably by a volcanic convulsion, supplies good water in two large pools, and there is a little grass around its brim.  This is the only water between Abo and the river. With the exception of the pass by which it descends to the river the road is very good.  Two trains of <HI REND="italics">carretas</HI>
026.sgm: freighted with <HI REND="italics">chile</HI>
026.sgm: passed us on their way from El Paso to the Salinas.  On the road we picked up a human skull--no other sign of mortality near--doubtless a victim of Indian hostility.  As we sat on our mules, it was passed from hand to hand for examination and left sticking on a branch of cactus!</p><P>The air was soft, with a gentle breeze in the ca&ntilde;on that seemed fresher as we proceeded.  Vegetation grease-wood, cactus (two species), and wild squash.  We soon came in sight of the Socorro Mountain. The road is good, yet with occasional sand and a small portion of it gravelly. The saline efflorescence is abundant between Abo and Juan Lujan, and in the midst of it we found Cooper's company encamped, on account of one of the party having been attacked with pneumonia.</p><P>Leaving Juan Lujan, the road ascends gently westward, through hills singularly and variously shaped.  When near to the top of the pass the waggons halted to gather dry cedar branches for the valley encampment beyond, where we could not have wood, a precaution well thought of, as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:night proved cool.  The mules had a tolerable patch of winter grain, the first we had yet seen.  We had expected to find a good encampment at the river itself, but it had been ruined by the frequent freshets.  The 25th was warm and we did not start until 3 o'clock P. M. for La Joya. There is another road to that place, which has good water and grass; it leaves the Santa F&eacute; trail at Bagos.</p><P>The people of La Joya had apples sweet to the taste; sold us some sheep at a reasonable rate; and asked $25 for a cow.  After so much cedar, the green cottonwood and the peach trees afforded a pleasant variety.  Camp was chosen a mile below the town, and the mules turned upon a shuck field, after being fed with corn.  The price of corn was $2.50 per <HI REND="italics">fanega</HI>
026.sgm:.  The night clear and pleasant.  A duck and crane shot.  Many of the company with which I subsequently travelled fitted out at this place, encamping on the opposite Side, and speak well of "its advantages for this purpose.  We are careful to keep the mules from the saline ground.</p><P>From Galisteo to La Joya we had travelled 115 miles. Thence to Socorro the distance is 20 miles, passing through La Joyita, Sabino, and Parida, where corn and flour can be obtained, as well as eggs, chickens, milk, grapes, etc. The Road is occasionally uneven, with much sand, the soil often good. Proper encampments present themselves among the trees that fringe the river, but the main dependence here is upon corn.  At Sabino Capt. Houck lost a favorite horse by a cap being carelessly left on a gun in a waggon, and I shall the better remember the incident from the fact that only a moment before I had been behind the waggon, in such a position that I could have escaped the shot by the help of Providence alone. The messes from Galisteo left us at La Joya for the purpose of disposing of their waggons, etc.; at Parida came up Dr. Crawford E. Smith, Troup Smith, John Peterson, and Robert Christian, part of the company from Saline county going to El Paso.</p><P>To-day the story was that the Apaches had lately killed 30 U. S. soldiers near Do&ntilde;a Ana.  Another version <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:(the emigrant commonly "minds his own business" and takes care of his stock, molesting none of the people), a caution is observed in the approach to the more respectable families that requires time to overcome.  Many of these, disgusted and worn out by their treatment since the peace, when they had a right to expect protection, instead of insult and oppression, are preparing to leave immediately, promising themselves better security even under the ill-regulated government of Mexico.</p><P>What we did see of them, however, left no unfavorable opinion, when the proper allowance is made for the circumstances that have heretofore surrounded them, all so unpropitious to improvement.  They are a polite, kind, mild, well-meaning people, respecting the laws, and eminently religious in their feelings.  'Tis a contracted pedant who would blame them for their want of education.  If government should continue to keep troops in the towns, they ought not to be too few for defence, while just enough to be an intolerable nuisance to the inhabitants.</p><P>Socorro is prettily situated on the second bank of the river, at the foot of a mountain towering to the height of 2,700 feet, enbosomed in vineyards and orchards, and boasting 8 good many large and commodious dwellings, as well as a spacious church.</p><P>Almost every house has a corral connected with it, which can be rented, (with rooms adjacent), for from $4 to $7 per week.  Here the stock are brought for safekeeping at night, being grazed during the day on the bottom under the charge of a herder, at the rate of 50 cents per day.  The practice is to give them corn in the morning and again upon their return, with fodder at night.  Prices are as follows: Corn, $3 per <HI REND="italics">fanega</HI>
026.sgm:; flour, $6 per cwt.; sugar, 37 1/2 cts. per lb.; coffee, 25 cts.; gourds, 50 cts. each; tree for pack-saddle, $2; shoeing a mule around $5; Osnaburgh 10 cts. per yd.; there are three stores. Within four miles of the town in the hills are the hot springs and fine graina grass, to which our herd was frequently driven under a guard.  Beef, milk, fruit, etc., can be had at reasonable rates.  This being, as we supposed, about the last chance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:made at his brother's at Socorro, received me kindly, but he had too many visitors to accomodate me with lodging; he had room and provender for my mules, however. After partaking of some <HI REND="italics">miel</HI>
026.sgm:, that is to say cornstalk molasses, I slept comfortably by the side of my cargo under his porch. Cloudy, but pleasant day.</p><P>The company was camped about a mile below the town, On thin grass, the village supplying the want of it with plenty of corn and fodder.  The diversity Of opinion between the route of Col. Cooke and that of Gen. Kearny was settled by the vote of the majority in favor of the former.  Housen ill.  Cooper was chosen captain, an admirable selection.</p><P>Next morning breakfasted with my worthy host, a dish of stewed mutton, followed by <HI REND="italics">chile</HI>
026.sgm:, with good bread and water.  He offered aguardiente, which I declined, telling him I had drank nothing of the kind for nearly two years. I gave his son a map of the United States, which seemed to please him very much.  The youth asked many questions about the States, the road to them, etc.  All the ladies wished to see the daguerreotype of my wife and returned it to me with the graceful remark " <HI REND="italics">Muy bonita</HI>
026.sgm:."  One inquired, "Do you not wish to see her?" and when I replied yes, she smiled, satisfied with the result of her curiosity. To one of them I gave a Catholic picture which I tore out of my prayer-book.  All were kind and attentive and manifested a deep interest in our fortunes, as we were now leaving the last civilized settlement.</p><P>The company had long before started.  I left with Moree, and late arrived near the Valverde crossing, where all were in camp.  The day was clear and windy, but warm. The road is level, rather sandy; winds much through the bottom, and within two miles of the camp running close under the high bluffs.  At this place the river is narrow and lined with cottonwood.  The grass at the river was indifferent; the stock, however, were herded on it to-night. Next morning a fine patch of grass was found on the hills, and the stock kept upon it under a guard of 12 men.  It was on these hills two young volunteers of Doniphan's regiment, while herding sheep, the balance of their company <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm: to be found between the Rio Grande and the Guadalupe Pass, I would take the latter course, if I should have to do it again and be at my own disposal.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>Our road the next day for ten miles was over very steep and rocky ascents and descents, bad for the waggons. They stopped to rest, and got into camp an hour late.  The road runs very little in the bottom, and the sand is deep; the hills are high, making deep and broad arroyos, dry beds of creeks and torrents of which we crossed several. The chief vegetation is cactus (several varieties), Spanish bayonet, and mezquite; a few cedars on the hills and in the Sandy hollows.  I found one flower in bloom.  Travelled eighteen miles.  To-day we nearly completed the circuit which the river makes round the mountain of Fra Cristobal.  The neighboring country presents a most rugged and desolate aspect.  We camped immediately opposite a mass of white earth said by Capt. Johnson, I believe, to be chalk.  The river here is very narrow.  To the north Fra Cristobal reared his rugged brow; behind us rose a lofty side of the ca&ntilde;on up which, half a mile distant, the mules found fine <HI REND="italics">grana</HI>
026.sgm:; around, a universal growth of mezquite which made good fires for one of our coldest nights.  A good watering place at a Short bend in the river, just before reaching camp.  In the morning we passed a singular wall of earth, many feet high and three or four in thickness; as it stands, it might be taken for the remains of some ancient and spacious edifice.</p><P>Bad colds were now beginning to prevail, the result of the sudden change from the close adobe houses of Socorro to a field life.  Three or more were quite sick, although they still kept to their saddles.  But to-day Mr. White Burnett had to be carried in a wagon.  Thus far we had seen little game, tending to confirm the observation of Emory that game in New Mexico is almost extinct, if it ever existed to any extent.</p><P>Some faded groves of cottonwood are in sight up and down the river.  There is much speculation as to the luck our friends will have who have attempted Kearny's route down the Gila.  We have misgivings, but they were enthusiastic in the belief that they would beat us to the Pimas. The point at which Gen. K. left the Rio Grande is somewhere near our present camp.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>Sunday, Nov. 18th:</p><P>Heavy frost. Travelling a few hundred yards, we came to water, but the quicksand made it dangerous; soon rose to the table-land by a long, winding ascent, dotted with cedars, and again presently came down into the bottom by steep descents.  Fronting the road as you wind up is a high peak on the east side of the river.  Toward evening, for a considerable distance we passed through the bottom immediately under the bluff.  Very rocky all day and bad for waggons, although they kept up with us better than yesterday.  Encamped near a cottonwood grove, with convenient water <HI REND="italics">at</HI>
026.sgm: the river and excellent grass on the hills, distance 20 miles.  Five deer seen to-day, many rabbits killed, as well as for the last two or three days.  A Mexican quail was shot, a very pretty bird. From the unevenness of the road packs were frequently deranged, which threw their owners considerable behind.  In one instance, Henry Hook and myself (who happened to be riding together), scampered up a long hill in double-quick time at the crack after crack of a dozen rifles from the front far out of sight. It turned out, however, to be merely a deer chase and not an Indian charge as we had supposed.  The day clear and warm; a strong breeze at 3 A.M.; water froze hard.  The river here is not more than 30 yards wide, a Sand bar reducing the channel to one-third.  Just as one of the guards was leaving a gun went off, occasioning an alarm, but not serious.  Mr. O'Rear has recovered his usual health.  He was shot through the breast by a messmate who mistook him for an Indian; this occurred in the Saline company, somewhere on the Santa F&eacute; trail.  He joined us at Socorro. We have concluded that we must pass General Kearny's turning-off place early to-morrow.</p><P>This was our first Sunday.  Some had proposed to rest always on that day.  Apart from religious considerations, all afterward admitted, when the subject came up, that we might have so regulated all our encampments as to have reposed on Sunday with eminent advantage to the ends of the expedition.  The time that might have been supposed to be lost in so doing would have been more than compensated for by the improvement of the stock, a circumstance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:, and at the end of 24 miles from the morning's camp we entered a little cove to the right of the road, where Capt. C. had already found water; abundant grass on the hill-sides; fuel, a little mezquite and stalks of the Spanish bayonet. This is "Foster's Hole," described by Col. Cooke as "a natural rock-bound wall, thirty feet in diameter and twenty-four feet deep, containing about 55,000 gallons of clear, pure water."</p><P>From our camp it can be approached through a narrow opening in the rocks, but the mules are driven over the hills on either side down into the chasm, where they can be watered one or two at a time in two small basins at the foot of the main one, some 15 or 20 feet below it.  The process is a long one but easy enough.  We had also found abundant water in a large pond on the roadside, three miles from the river.  Day clear and pleasant.  Our camp was Within a mile of the table-land that stretches, almost without interruption a level plain, to Guadalupe Pass. Ascending from the river, the mountain scenery is various, striking, and grand, comprehending a view of the Organos and El Paso mountains.  The river here runs off short to the east, while the emigrant road takes nearly an opposite direction.</p><P>Col. Cooke was here Nov. 13th; the next day for him was cold and cloudy, with the appearance of snow at this camp, and on the 15th he did not move, as it was blowing a gale all day and both raining and snowing.  We had better weather on Nov. 21st, 1849 when we finally threw ourselves in the track made by him, upon the vast table-land of Sonora.  Watering the animals again, we started at 8 o'clock.  After a mile or so passed over a very level, firm, but gravelly road ten miles to a small running stream. The water plentiful and good; much mezquite; a grove chiefly of oak off the road, on the right hand.  Here the Chicago company were engaged in cooking.  Watered the animals <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>[From the incomplete notes of the journey from the Mimbres River to Warner's Ranch, Judge Hayes later wrote a separate diary, which he gave to H. H. Bancroft.  The material would fill upwards of a hundred printed pages.  Dr. Owen C. Coy has written a scientific study of the road traversed by the little party.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: A map accompanies the report of Col. Philip St. George Cooke, whose route Judge Hayes and his associates followed in the main.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1"><HI REND="italics">The Great Trek: The Story of the Overland Trail.  Los Angeles, the L. D. Powell Company, 1929.</HI>
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026.sgm: with us.  They kept us waiting half an hour, meantime I examined the other premises.  The delay itself seemed to have been made only to astonish &amp; please us, the more.</p><P>"Two belfreys, hexagonal base, then octagonal on it, then smaller dome-shaped, with cross on top of the whole, whole height of the belfry finished perhaps 160 feet.  Two bells in completed belfry, one in the other belfry which seems never to have been completed.  Dome back of the belfrys, over the altar.  Terrace on top of the whole very pretty. Beautiful front, with niches for figures, some of them now defaced a good deal.  High wall on the east, enclosing rooms with lofty ceilings, which may once have been a monastery; staircase view from interior gallery, and two galleries outside; floors solid cement, in square blocks. 3 altars.  Light and airy appearance of ceiling over altar, with white, pink, and blue colors.  Statues innumerable of saints, Apostles, Blessed Virgin, etc.  12 oil paintings by masters, sent no doubt from Europe; appear to be old, and to a connoisseur would be of great value.   Besides, numerous fine paintings on the walls, some very large, of Scriptural scenes, and the colors fresh as If painted yesterday.  Four old missals In a closet in the sacristy, which the girls, thinking doubtless we would be interested in their treasures, unlocked for us.  Oldest printed 1762, another 1769.  Parish records of births, etc.  Oldest date in the latter 1765.  No seats.  Side rooms, sacristy, etc., all highly finished.  Splendid cornice.  Gilded carved pilasters, making the altar, in the light of the sun's rays straying through a lofty window, glitter like a mass of gold. Girls showed us ' <HI REND="italics">San Antonio chichito</HI>
026.sgm:,' a very pretty little figure, on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm: and say it is good to eat. They wanted <HI REND="italics">rolea</HI>
026.sgm:, showing pantaloons--we had none to sell.  Our camp is in sight of Tueson, unfortunately in the middle of an extensive area of poor grass, with saline efflorescence very thick.  Some of the Pimos gathered the feathers of the hawks shot by our men, and put them in their head dress.  They admired my hat, and wanted needles.  Passed some water flowing through what was once an irrigating canal.  I find since that this supplies the town with water.  The Jesuits may once have had a flourishing population here.  Where have they gone? What has reduced them? Is the soil worn out? . . . There are two blacksmith shops at Tueson, a shoe factory employing seven hands making a very neat shoe like the prinella.  Most of the women seem to be diligently occupied at needlework, more than I have seen in New Mexico."</p><P>Mr. Hatcher, of Taos, encountered on the road, "met Lieut. Beall at San Diego, who told him that numbers were leaving California, and others wishing to do so, that few would realize fortunes, who were industrious and did not participate in the vices of the country, that drinking shops, etc. were under almost every tree.  Mr. H. says we have 205 miles to go through, wholly destitute of grass, and that it is a perfect swamp.  He spoke of the miners having found it necessary to associate, and rout out of the mines some 600 gamblers and robbers."</p><P>On December 19 the party reorganized into smaller groups, the one which Judge Hayes joined including 21 white men and two negroes.  On December 20 the "Grand chief" of the Pimos called with an imposing array of certificates of good behavior from emigrants.  Supplies were very plentiful. The liveliness and happy natures of the Pimos are noted again.  A large party of them accompanied the emigrant party to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:for wages--they were clerks at Liberty.  Old `dad' proposes to wagon, or do any thing--Kayser is a carpenter and relies upon his trade. . . . I wrote to Maj. Emory thanking him for his timely provision for the emigrants, and recommending these four to him.  T. H. started of this morning with his heavy saddle bags over his shoulder, and coffee pot in hand, their other little property divided among them, according to strength."</p><P>On November 13, 1849, while Judge Hayes was at Socorro, his old friend Peter H. Burnett was elected the first civil Governor of California under American rule.  On January 29, 1850, seventeen days after he reached the hospitable camp of Colonel Harazthy, Henry Clay introduced the Missouri Compromise into Congress, by which California was admitted as a free state in the following September.--The Editor.]</p></DIV>
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026.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II<LB>THE END OF THE EMIGRANT TRAIL</HEAD>
026.sgm:<P>Sunday, Jan. 13th, 1850 (at Harazthy's camp): Last night the wind rose high again, making it difficult To keep on our blankets; we had found the best shelter we Could, under a large tree.  This morning cloudy, early; and, after breakfast, much appearance of a snowstorm; wind stronger and colder than it had yet been.  Last winter in December (1848) a snow fell through this valley 10 feet deep, through which the soldiers had to dig their way.  This morning we have had both rain and snow.  At 1 P.M. bidding adieu to our hospitable friends, start for Warner's rancho, Dr. Kerr giving us a direction to a beautiful encampment and desirable grass.  Ascend the valley, a violent gale blowing in our faces; soon reach the mountain through which winds the road, lined with evergreen oak, the largest we have yet seen. A pretty, clear stream flows down toward the valley through which we have come; the grass improves as we proceed; the dry grass mixed with the green on the flats of the little creek, and on the hills the bunch grass at the tufts of which our pack mules catch greedily, as they trot along.</p><P>Coming to the forks of the road, we concluded to take that leading directly to Warner's.  Winding somewhat, close to the mountain, over the green mounds, we were in half an hour or so hailed from an encampment high up on our left among the oaks.  Turning to this point, we found several messes reposing under the shade of the lofty oaks that in part protected them from the rain that was occasionally falling in light, cold showers.  As a further shield from the wind, very strong here, they had cut large branches and surrounded their different corrals, as they called them.  A cordial, hearty shake of the hand from all; they start tomorrow.  Their mules are grazing on the flat, at the bottom of this mountain (it may be termed).  The distance is one and one-half miles to Warner's, whence they have obtained good beef and salt; nothing else to be had, they say. Some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:have been over at the Indian rancheria of Agua Caliente, getting flour at $2 per <HI REND="italics">almud</HI>
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026.sgm:entered he was seated at breakfast, which had probably put him in his best humor; quite talkative; said he would let us have milk tomorrow morning, and, at Some inconvenience to himself, sugar and salt.  He examined Maj. S.'s gun, and proferred to mend it.  His reception was very polite, and we formed a favorable impression of him. His house is thatched with tule, long, divided into two large rooms, with a shed in front, before which were stretched out several hides, pinned down, in the process of being dressed for market.  Several Indians about, also some white men he had hired.  His beef was hanging up before the door we entered, in the shade; killed this morning.  He says he has no more fit to be Slaughtered; cannot go himself to Santa Margarita for them, and his whites are not as yet enough California-ized for Californian labor. I am told he offers to guaranty any man $100 a thousand, who will stop here and cut timber.  Some of the emigrants, it seems to me, would do better to accept the proposition than to seek the mines.</p><P>On going in Major S. noticed a blacksmith's <HI REND="italics">vice</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>"Yes," replied Warner, "We have plenty of <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
026.sgm: in California."</p><P>He says he had some three or four hundred hogs when Gen. Kearny passed here, a fact which he thinks Maj. Emory might have mentioned, since he has seen none of them (he says).  "Put this and that together," I thought.</p><P>His house is on one of the beautiful high, rolling hills, without vegetation other than the bunch grass, which reminds us now of advanced spring in the prairies of Missouri. It is at the point precisely where the main road branches, one to San Diego, the other to Los Angeles, convenient for the supply of emigrants.  He says he will find something to trade to the emigrants, as they come up; none shall starve.  Several sold their pistols to him, for food, several who started with plenty of money.</p><P>I see little sign of cultivation in the neighborhood, though he calls the place a farm.  Our object being to camp a few days on good grass, to recruit, we selected a spot 2 miles from Warner's in the neighborhood of the hot spring (Agua Caliente).  Mr. Warner sent an Indian with us as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:melancholy since.  Dr. Laurence and the Phelps boys are camped near at hand; all is quiet, save the singing of birds. They are very tame.  No human voice disturbs me.  We linger on the confines of the reputed delicious climate, where, I am told, the trees are now loaded with oranges and olives, and the grape is still fresh on the vine. The stream near my feet is clear, pebbly.</p><P>Phelps bought fine dried grapes at the Store beyond the village.  Warner killed another bullock today, such is the demand.  He Says the Indians of the village have never been known to steal anything, except perhaps a lariat. An Indian woman offers us pi&ntilde;ole at $2 the <HI REND="italics">almud</HI>
026.sgm:; she takes our washing at $1 for 8 pieces, she finding soap.  Honeysuckle abounds about our camp; grass fine, several kinds.</p><P>The day clear, night pleasant; we add rice and milk, sent by Warner, to our supper of beef, beans, and pickled pork.  Wheat does here finely; not so nearer the coast, on account of the fogs, says Mr. Warner.</p><P>16th: Rain during the night, a comfortless awaking in the morning; not very cold, however.  Walked over one and a half miles to the village.  As I entered, the Indians were flocking to a large house, the largest and that of their Captain, as one of them told me.  They all speak Spanish. The house, etc., belonged formerly to the Mission of San Luis Rey, which long maintained an establishment here. There were several good vineyards around it once and one still remains.  Some women I noticed were good-looking; an Indian told me all were <HI REND="italics">Christianos</HI>
026.sgm:.  They are scattered around the neighboring little valleys; at present many have come in, attending to a <HI REND="italics">pleito</HI>
026.sgm: (law-suit) or some difficulty before the <HI REND="italics">Capitan</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>I went to the store. It is kept by an American, by the name of Marshall; is pretty well stocked with articles suited to this "market."  The goods came from San Francisco. An Indian offered me flour at $2 the <HI REND="italics">almud</HI>
026.sgm:.  While here, occupied in pricing things and inquiries, some 20 Indians rode up briskly on their ponies, in various costumes; one with sword and holsters on his saddle; another was dressed in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:a really fine blue coat, having a naked sword dangling at his belt.  They are a good-looking, pleasant sort of people, and polite enough.  Amongst them they bought a handkerchief, a pack of playing cards, etc., and started a game of monte before I left. I observed one come out with a small jug of <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>Visited the hot spring, following down the cold water creek that leads to it from the store.  Some women were washing clothes in it; others, and <HI REND="italics">muchachos</HI>
026.sgm:, were paddling about in it.  They have thrown up the rocks and sand, making a large pool, in which 30 may bathe conveniently, if they choose; one of the women threw her frock over her shoulders, as I approached.  Some of the huts are commodious, one perhaps 25 feet long.  The Captain's, and other houses are of adobe, and the Captain's has a large corral formed by a high adobe wall.  In the wigwams were bushels of a nut whose kernel has the taste of a peach kernel; they make bread of it.  Our mules are scattering a good deal.  Rain in misty showers till about 2 P. M., when the clouds are breaking.  For a pint of milk, an Indian charged us <HI REND="italics">dos reales</HI>
026.sgm: (25 cents).</p><P>17th: In search of mules; found off toward the mountain in the west.  At 10 A.M. clear.  Found Warner at breakfast; a plant shewn me which the Indians gather for food.  He shewed me a newspaper containing an extract from an essay of his, which he had submitted to the authorities at Washington City.  From this it seems that he was the first, or among the first, to agitate the question of a Pacific Railroad. His name is John J. Warner.  This dissertation was written in December 1840.</p><P>In 1830 he started from Connecticut for his health; went west to St. Louis; could get into no business; spent some time in Illinois.  In 1831 got into a wholesale grocery store.  Smith, of the Ashley company, took him to Santa F&eacute; in that year.  He there joined a party to go to California for mules to be sold in Louisiana.  The same year they came by Col. Cooke's subsequent route.  In California, he united with a trapping party on the Sacramento River, from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Ross up to Klamath River, very bad country; this kept him in California.  Removed his family to this rancho some five years ago.</p><P>He has never known consumption in San Diego district. His idea is, that the railroad should be completed as it goes, SO as to transport its own timber.  He is enthusiastic about the project.  He Says Col. Benton is the only public man who seems to well understand what this part of the country wants.  Found at Warner's a newspaper of Nov. 7th, the <HI REND="italics">Dollar Weekly</HI>
026.sgm:; acceptable.</p><P>We hear bad news of the emigrants by Salt Lake. The Indians of the village today are ploughing and sowing wheat.</p><P>Col. Samuel Whiting, of Texas, is here.  Dine at Warner's, soup, corn beef, pumpkin, coffee with milk.  Morel [?], Thornton, and Nash come up.  Had a plate of dried grapes; very sweet and good; an emigrant considers them equal to the best raisins.  The <HI REND="italics">almud</HI>
026.sgm: here is only 8 lbs., corn 62 1/2 cts. per <HI REND="italics">almud</HI>
026.sgm:, tobacco $1 per lb., Phelps bought an axe for $3.50.  The store has no pepper or salt.</p><P>Warner says there is another road across the desert, going close to the mountains on the eastern side, being the same by which Gen. Flores retreated from California.  It has not as much water on the sandy part as has the one we came, but in other respects is as easy of ascent.  Within 10 miles of this rancho there are places where you can get down immediately to the plain, but they are very precipitous.</p><P>The Indians have annoyed Warner a good deal in times past; one reason why he has made so little.  Once they stole all his horses and mules, but so steep was the descent they attempted to make in their hurry, they got off with only five.  The storekeeper at the village informs me that an Indian was hung on the 16th there, by order of the <HI REND="italics">Capitan</HI>
026.sgm:, For witchcraft!  It is said he confessed to having killed seven other Indians by his spells.</p><P>Major S. says he has become suspicious of everybody upon the road.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>18th: While I am writing, the sun makes another effort to break his misty veil; a patch of blue appears in the east; a rainbow, seemingly not a hundred yards off from me, spans the northwest end of our camping-ground; a beautiful sight, and frequent today. Thousands of ducks in the ponds, very fat; Phelps barbecued one last night.</p><P>The mules are brought up; look well; improving rapidly.  Move our camp a short distance, to a better shelter, where there is more dry wood for fuel.  Lay down in our wet blankets.  I slept soundly, although poorly protected from the light rain that fell in the early part of the night.</p><P>19th: About midnight commenced snowing; this morning about an inch deep; the trees and neighboring hilltops white; different scene from yesterday.  Sun rises clear, about 9 trees already free of snow, and also the Shrubs touched by his rays.  Warner says there was snow last winter, 18 inches deep, on the level in this valley.  The sun feels comfortable, or rather we do in his view.  A hawk sits near the camp, on a high limb, observant and fearless.  A great variety of birds, but they have no song for us this morning.  At mid-day, snow still on tops Of hills, all gone from the lowland.  The dead branches of evergreen oak which we find scattered around abundantly, were broken down by the weight of last winter's snow. Maj. S. goes up to bathe in the pool at the Hot Springs. Squaws around bathing, washing, etc., make it a difficult matter.  He succeeds, however. Clothes he washes retain a sulphurous smell.   Cold late in the afternoon; moonlight; not a cloud.  A snipe and duck killed today near camp.</p><P>Sunday, 20th: Heavy frost.  Morning clear and cloudless, and biting cold.  Snow still on the high mountain peak behind the village and in the shade of the oaks near our camp. Night cloudless, moonlight, ground froze hard.</p><P>22nd: About 9  P.M.  yesterday,  it  became  comparatively <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:clear; about midnight clouded again and a light snow commenced to fall, which, at daybreak this morning, is an inch deep.  A mocking-bird in a neighboring tree.  Our shelter is two large oaks with a semicircle of broken and dead boughs.</p><P>Warner Says last winter was the coldest ever known in this locality.</p><P>About 1 P.M. a cloud passing over us drops down a light snow for 10 minutes.  Toward sunset a strong west wind, cold, sun sets clear, the snow-clad mountain beyond the village presenting a golden radiance, a cloud hangs close along and on its summit, leaden dark nearest to the mountain, throwing up far toward the azure above a rosy-tinged mass.  A few thin clouds coming up from the southwest, not yet hiding the bright moon and stars. Around a good fire we sit, talking of friends at home, how many come in for a kindly wish!</p><P>23d: Clouded over and snowing again; prospects of a bad night.  Gose shot a woodpecker, a different species from any I have seen, a pretty bird, back greenish-black, deep red circling the bill, feathers under the belly tipped with white and red intermixed, terminating in a white ring around the neck.</p><P>Maj. S. is very sorry now that he did not defray the expenses of Hale and Bradley, to accompany him.  Might have done a great service to two worthy young men. Since Col. Whiting left Texas he has had to buy eight mules.</p><P>The store-keeper at the village has bought up some emigrant waggons, thinks they will soon bear a good price. Warner has also bought some.  Warner's house, in fact, is a perfect bazaar for effects of emigrants; every species almost of mechanics' tools, and an armory in the way of everything except 24 pounders.</p><P>There is a great variety of plants, strange to me, in this valley.  Maj. S. today brings me some of the nuts used by the Indians in making bread.  An Indian tells me that they are from a low tree growing abundantly about here and that they are " <HI REND="italics">bueno para comer</HI>
026.sgm:." Warner says <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:that the nut I have is the wild plum, and he supposes that the bread alluded to is made of the bean of the mezquite with a little flour.</p><P>He says that most of the works written upon California contain little that is agreeable to the fact.</p><P>Going up to the village yesterday, we found quite a number of the inhabitants, a majority of those present, in a state of high intoxication from the liquor with which the store-keeper plies them at a dollar a pint, or 10 cents a drink.  A good deal of gambling going on, and had been for several days.  For gambling they have an extraordinary passion.  One, <HI REND="italics">Capitan</HI>
026.sgm: of a neighboring rancheria, and who is said to be owner of a considerable quantity of stock, had been gambling the whole time; first pawned his riding horse (worth $100 at Los Angeles) for $15; got rid of this, then borrowed about the same amount on another horse; it was thought this last sum, too, was near gone when we left.  An example of "Anglo-Saxon progress" through its "pioneers," the store-keepers, etc.  One Indian told me the people are <HI REND="italics">todos Cristianos</HI>
026.sgm:.  They may have been; now sadly corrupted.  A trader tells me, that, four years ago, in these mountains it was almost impossible to find a woman otherwise than virtuous.  Now, such has been the force of temptation set before them by the traders, it is almost impossible to find one who is virtuous.</p><P>On a little hillock overlooking the bathing pool are a dozen or so of small furnaces, a sort of rough-wrought basket filled with sand, purpose I do not know, I believe they are intended for boiling nuts before spoken of, in order to take away their bitter taste.</p><P>Warner's sale of liquor to the Mexican soldier.</p><P>The Agua Caliente forms a little lake a short distance below our camp; the sand absorbs much of the water; it is dry entirely below the pool in summer, so says Mr. Marshall.</p><P>Nash has gone on, having heard that carpenter's work can be had at Los Angeles.  Gambling and fandangos have taken away much of the money of the emigrants.</p><P>An Indian tells me they have no <HI REND="italics">padre</HI>
026.sgm: (priest) but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:want one, and confirms the execution the other day.  Maj. S. has gone over to Warner's to grind our coffee, nearly one-half of a pound he bought at the store is dirt. The Indian last referred to says their <HI REND="italics">Capitan</HI>
026.sgm: has many books; must try to see them to-morrow; quasi independent chief.  I am told that the Alcalde at San Diego has sent for their head men to come down, and they start this evening or to-morrow.  Saw an Indian making for home the other day, with the head Of a mule strung over his shoulder. Another came down today, and after talking awhile pleasantly, cut some limbs of a tree and, hitching his pony to them, dragged them off up to the village.  These, and the washerwoman, are all, I think, who have visited us; they seem to have no curiosity about our stay, nor do they molest us in any way.  They are a hearty-looking people.</p><P>Maj. S. is off on a deer-hunt, to the hills.  A bayonet on a pole, one of their weapons.  They appear to have no firearms whatever, and are said not to know their use (?). The Mexicans we occasionally meet offer $10 for a good gun and $15 for one of Allen's revolvers.  Paid Warner 12 1/2 cents per lb. for beef.</p><P>Went over to the spring to bathe and wash clothes. Performed the latter operation surrounded by squaws and muchachos, all naked, dabbling in the water.  Women brought down their young children, apparently only a few months old; one or two undressed themselves modestly enough and washed themselves; the rest were washing clothes or softening the acorn, or wild plum seed, in the boiling spring, chatting freely; others attending to a small quantity in another little sulphur spring; others filtering the nut flour in the little furnaces.  The boiling water deprives the nuts of their bitter taste, I understand.</p><P>One girl washed me a pair of stockings.  I proceeded To enjoy the luxury of the bath, which we seemed likely to lose, if we did not act quickly, what between women and children, who were plunging in and out continually. They seem to have this as a chief amusement, coming and going to the pool all the time.  And it is a luxury.  At first the water was too hot for my feet; with my hand I raked away <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:were getting out to high ground in canoes and skiffs. Those at Brasfield's location buy their provisions at Hangtown, packing them over on their backs.  Flour, $1 per lb.; bacon, $1.50 per lb.; fresh beef from 37 1/2 to 50 cents; milk, $1 per pint; sugar, coffee each 50 cents per lb.; eggs, $1 apiece; potatoes, $1 per lb.; molasses, $5 per gallon; beans, 65 cents per lb.; onions, $1.50 to $2 per lb.  Fresh beef is plentiful.  This is the range of prices since the rainy season commenced; from about November 1st it was raining about two-thirds Of the time, when Brasfield left (Jan. 10th).  At other seasons prices are not much below the above rates.  Hauling from Sacramento City is from $15 to $20 per hundred; has ranged from $25 to $50.</p><P>Lewis Wood and James Clay came down on the steamer from San Francisco to San Diego.  Steerage passage is $40, and rough living at that; cabin passage $80. From Sacramento City to San Francisco, in a steamer, $30 cabin, $20 deck, the same up and down.  Coming down, 8 hours, $2.50 for one meal.  This steamer, the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
026.sgm:, makes the trip tri-weekly.  Wood and Clay bought mules at San Diego. Brasfield is on the same business out here, of course expects to buy of <HI REND="italics">impoverished</HI>
026.sgm: emigrants at this point.  They will meet at Los Angeles and drive up their mules, which command a high price in the mines.</p><P>Mr. N. B. Wood left St. Joseph, Mo., On November 7th; St. Louis 16th; New Orleans 28th taking a sailing vessel to Chagres, made it in 9 days; left Chagres December 9th, reached Panama on 15th (they usually go quicker); reached San Diego on January 18th.  He says there are a thousand destitute Americans at Panama, and a thousand more awaiting transportation.</p><P>Brasfield says a pair of boots, such as miners use, will cost $40 where he is located.  Harvey Owens made $1200 in the season at Sacramento City, killing elk, which are plentiful in the vicinity.</p><P>(Note:  Antonio Garra, an Indian leader of this vicinity, was in 1851 leader of an insurrection which cost him his life.  He was by Gen. Juan Antonio handed over to the State Military and shot.  B. H.)</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>24th: Col. Whiting left yesterday, selling mule to Mr. Warner for $12!  Maj. S. paid Warner $2 the <HI REND="italics">almud</HI>
026.sgm: for flour; beef, 10 cents per lb.  Our arrangements are near completed for starting.  All the mules we found about three miles off, except my riding mule, which had got among the horses of the Indian <HI REND="italics">Capitan</HI>
026.sgm:, to whose corral I went for him.  Too wild for me to lasso him, after his wide range upon rich pasturage.  A young Indian boy did it for me; paid him, together with <HI REND="italics">muchas gracias</HI>
026.sgm:.  Brasfield bought a mule for $50.  By 3 P.M. we were off.</p><P>Leaving Agua Caliente, we went down the valley, toward a gap in the mountains to the N. W. over broken low hills; in 5 miles reached an Indian village, small, none but old people about; soon entered a pass or ca&ntilde;on, road of very deep sand, crossing dry, sandy beds of mountain torrents with banks three or four feet high.  Four miles in this pass.  The valley seemed to widen, but in a short distance contracted again.  Travelling 10 miles saw a camp fire, which proved to be Col. Whiting's.  He turned his mules out yesterday on the scanty grass, could not find them this morning, probably gone back to Warner's, sent an Indian back for them.  We regretted we had not stopped four miles back, where just before dark we had noticed a better show for grass.  The mules are tied up for the night, with a meagre diet.     Our camp is under some huge evergreen oaks, a little stream of clear water.  Music of frogs. Tales of emigration from Brasfield.  Pay-u-tahs of Humboldt. Paddy Cooper's adventure.  At 11 P.M. still cloudy, the air still; at 12 moon shining bright.</p><P>25th: Shortly after leaving came upon another pretty little rivulet rushing down among the rocks from the high mountains upon our left.  Clear, good water, soon crossed it again, the bottom, or pass, becoming more narrow, with rugged rocks on the right.  In a couple of miles it opened to a small prairie, over which the young grass was springing up.  Along the creek a short distance and crossing the point of the northwestern wall of the prairie, came upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:the Indian village.  Our approach was the signal for a dozen dogs to bark.  There are perhaps a dozen small thatched huts of a conical shape; one had the pretensions of some we had seen at Agua Caliente.  This had a large corral made of poles around it.  Some ground near had been in corn and wheat.  Nothing to sell but eggs, three for a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
026.sgm:.  These people spoke Spanish.  The village is about one-half mile from the entrance of the prairie.  No wind going through the pass; mountains on our left high and shrouded in mist.  Clouds much broken. Quite a strong wind at the village.  The Indians recommended us to the grass on the opposite side of the creek, here widened to 8 or 10 feet.  The vegetation of the pass is oak, wild sage, willow; no grass; the road pretty good, one rugged place just as the road goes over the hill to the village.  An old Indian shews a testimonial of good standing, given by the sub-agent, and complaining that the emigrants have driven off his cattle.  Shameful!</p><P>About 4 P.M. the missing mules are brought back, found grazing near the first village on the road.  Short, young, tender grass, not much substance in it.  Preparations to start at daylight to make the next Indian village. The mules will not drink.</p><P>26th: Up before daylight.  Brasfield's San Diego mule gone; starts for it, found at the prairie among some Indian horses. A good deal of sandy road all day, some distance down the creek.  Several short, steep ascents and descents during this 20 miles.  A narrow pass, until we approach the valley of Temecula.  This valley spreads out fine grass, though still young.  The mules catch at it greedily.  Soil fertile. Pass a flushed stream as we near the valley, lined with cottonwood.  Partridges.  Road round the high bluff.  A bald eagle on a tree.  A vineyard is being set out here. There is a pear and peach orchard.  We could get no flour; the supply of that article already exhausted by the emigrants. Flour has been $1 per <HI REND="italics">almud</HI>
026.sgm:, beef 4 cents per lb.</p><P>The bottoms of the creek occasionally spread out to the width of near a mile.  The hills have much excellent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:bunch grass.  Thirty or more thatched wigwams; the Chief lives in an adobe house, with an adobe corral around it; his house has several rooms. There are some other adobe houses in the village. The Indians speak Spanish familiarly.</p><P>Cloudy, windy, raw day, rained a little in the night.</p><P>Sunday, 27th: Day breaking, found the tall mountain to our right white with snow; while raining here, it was snowing on the mountain.  One of the N. York company told me yesterday that they had a heavy rain here for three days.  The snow with us at Agua Caliente was rain with them.</p><P>This morning is pleasant; green grass covers the valley; bunch grass On the hills, through our journey of today. Scarcely any timber on the hills.  Eight miles from the village to the <HI REND="italics">Alamo</HI>
026.sgm: (cottonwood), some half-dozen large cottonwood trees.  An emigrant encamped here.  Ducks and geese On the numerous little ponds.  Maj. S. saw a wolf yesterday and three deer today.  Two other mountains are now in sight, at a considerable distance to the ease ward and north, must be 5000 feet high, their tops covered with snow.  One stream seems to pass out of the valley by a narrow canon but a few yards wide.  Reminded of the prairies of Clay County in the spring.  Came to an abandoned adobe house.  It is said the owner had to remove his cattle to a neighboring valley, off the road, in consequence of the emigrants killing them.</p><P>Not a cloud in the sky all day; warm and pleasant.</p><P>In about 15 miles reach some timber where the hills approach near, apparently the termination of the valley of Temecula, a sort of low divide over which we enter into another valley.  In both these is much good soil, although in the latter more of the wiry grass and more marshy, some little evergreen oak among the hills.</p><P>Come to the Laguna, two miles from the divide. Some good young grass, great deal of elder on its banks; as we rode along frequent flocks of geese rose from the shore; many shots at them; none brought down.  The water of the Laguna is saltish, the animals cannot drink it; if they could, such a sheet of fresh water here would be invaluable to <illus entity="a026-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LAS FLORES RANCH HOUSE</p></CAPTION>
026.sgm:<illus entity="a026-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TEMECULA <HI REND="italics">Sketched in 1865 and painted in 1871 by E. Vischer.</HI>
026.sgm: The inscription reads:  "Southern California Traffic:  Indian Village Temecula on t he old San Diego-Fort Yuma first Overland Road:  A Scene of Frontier Life."  Beginning at the left, the figures are:  "Native Californian and Indian Vacqueros, French Canadian Traveler Louis Arrouve and his Compans., California Ranchero from San Luis Rey, Grouns of Indians before the House and outside the Temascal."</p><P>Copyright photograph by C. C. Pierce of original.</p></CAPTION>
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026.sgm:the owner of this land.  As we were moving along the lake, an Indian overtook us, running as if to catch up with us; said he was from Temecula and going to the mines; had a little pinole tied up in a handkerchief; spoke Spanish, seemed disposed to be communicative.</p><P>At sunset the moon rises behind the snowy peaks to the eastward and is reflected on the lake.  Wild sage; the lake has evidently once, near the house, been with a much broader basin.  How is it supplied with water?  Clover around it. The house is a substantial adobe. A small stream seems to enter it on the east.  A low range of hills nearly surrounds the lake, higher where we are encamped on the southern side.  The lake valley seems to be higher than that of Temecula.  A hawk shot yesterday.  Milk 37 1/2 cents the gal.  The mules fared badly last night; we move about from place to place, bettering their feed but little.</p><P>Trading here somewhat delayed us and I was behind the rest.  Two or three men at this house; their wives seem to be Indians.</p><P>Road firm and good, gently ascending for a mile or more from the lake; then uneven, occasionally sandy, to Temescal.  Day clear and warm.  Our Indian companion kept with me as far as the rancho, where he turned down to see his friends who occupy a few huts near the house. A fine vineyard--a large cornfield--a large flock of sheep--many clear mountain torrents coming down from our left, having on all of them cottonwood, sometimes a good deal of it.  These torrents must be very wide sometimes.  The house is on a hill, a substantial adobe, clever people, originally from New Mexico, have been here 13 years.  Very little cultivated land from the lake to this point; on the hills, however, the grass looks pretty.  Took dinner here. They offered me a keg for a seat. The [Serrano, Ed.] family seated themselves on the floor. Mutton boiled with corn, a plate of <HI REND="italics">chile colorado</HI>
026.sgm:, and soft cheese made by themselves.</p><P>Started with the view of overtaking Maj. Sheppard. Coming to a patch of good grass four inches high, in a hollow, surrounded with evergreen oaks, about dark, I concluded to camp, 2 1/2 miles from Temescal. Tied mules up; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:river a wide plain extends out to the view; the eye does not cease to rest upon the fat cattle grazing in large and small herds; a great many horses and brood mares.  At length the rancho of Chino is in sight.</p><P>30th: First came to a collection of Indian huts, of the workmen of Williams.  Off to the right a mill, conspicuous amid the verdure.  The large dwelling of Williams off to the left, then two or three waggons of emigrants.  A peep into a waggon as I pass shews a little work-basket.  Looking to one side, there is a rosy-cheeked child, and a father, with a brow of care, sitting by the fire.</p><P>"Just in?"</p><P>"Yes."</p><P>"By Salt Lake?"</p><P>"Yes."</p><P>And then a brief but vivid sketch of suffering.</p><P>Riding up to a large house, found we could have lodgings, supper, etc.  Sociable set of men, all emigrants or American traders.  All in a bustle.  Tales of privation. Good supper.  Flour $1 the <HI REND="italics">almud</HI>
026.sgm: at the  mill.  Children around "saying their lessons," American ladies stirring about, a novel scene for us, we are again <HI REND="italics">near home</HI>
026.sgm:.  Adjoining the house is a large field of wheat, as fine as any in the world.     Five families staying at this house; all came by Salt Lake.  Among the topics of conversation is the neighboring mountain range northward, where, it is reported, gold has been found; two companies have been sent there prospecting.  It is said many families are still behind on the Salt Lake road, comparatively destitute. A real fear prevails in regard to them.</p><P>This is the first attempt of waggons to come through by the Salt Lake route.</p><P>This is a splendid domain.</p><P>Blue-winged mallard on the pools on our route today; a red duck; flight of geese.</p><P>Many of the emigrants have gone to San Gabriel Mission to stop.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Mr. Roland Says wheat produces 30 bushels to the acre. Corn $6 the <HI REND="italics">fanega</HI>
026.sgm:, and 50 cents to grind it at his mill. Maj. 5. paid $3.25 to an emigrant for 72 lbs. of corn meal.</p><P>Mr. Roland has kindly fitted out old Mr. Williams, an emigrant who lost almost everything, except the books of his son, who is a young lawyer; these he is determined to carry above.</p><P>Much interest about education among the old American settlers here and the emigrants.  Quite as much talk last night On this subject as we would hear in the States.</p><P>Weather today is most delightful.</p><P>Feb. 5th: The sweet chime of the San Gabriel bells fell upon my ear at the moment I was passing the front corner of the church, on the first day of February of this year 1850. Twilight had just gone, lights were flickering, in the various rooms of the Mission; men, women, and children flocking around; and from the whole neighborhood the murmurs of voices indicated a populous village.  I could distinguish very little in the growing darkness, and following the direction of the passer-by, I rode on and encamped for the night upon the thin <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
026.sgm: that flows through the place, under some large evergreen oaks.</p><P>Having come only from Mr. Roland's, we were not fatigued, and, after a hasty supper, proceeded to get all the information we could from the emigrants whom we found encamped in numbers in every direction. The afternoon had been warm; the night turned out cool; there was heavy dew.  Ripe oranges, of good flavor, were a treat. They had all been gathered by the parish priest, to whom the garden belongs, the emigrants having commenced stripping the trees at their arrival here.</p><P>The next day (Saturday) I started to take a look at the pueblo of Los Angeles.  The morning was clear but cold; there had been a heavy frost; at eight o'clock much warmer.  Before I left the bells again brought back fond thoughts of home, for all the world the same I had indulged at Santa Cruz, in Sonora, after travelling many hundred miles of uninhabited country, when their sound, at a late <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:hour of prayer, reverberated a mile distant through our cold camp.</p><P>Descending through lofty hills, covered, like the plains from the ranch of Chino, with grass and flowers, one obtains his first view of <HI REND="italics">the pueblo of Los Angeles</HI>
026.sgm:, nearly three miles off; this view, of course, is not complete, but the stranger hastens his steps, and is soon repaid, in a measure, for at least a portion of his toils.  I tied my mule to a pillar of the corridor in front of the Hotel (since known as the Bella Union).  It was the dinner-hour.  I went in and dined.   In the crowd I recognized no person; but, presently, an old acquaintance introduced himself to me, in the shape of Peter Biggs, formerly the slave of my friend, Mr. Reuben Middleton, of Liberty.  "Pete" was delighted to see me; did not delay to communicate to me many useful items; in fact, rendered me services which I esteemed valuable.</p><P>Here I found Col. Lewis Wood, of Clinton Co., Mo., who has been very successful in the mines.  My companions on the Gila had all been left by sea.  I remained a few hours in the pueblo, long enough to learn that an infinite amount of gambling was going on, and that the price of a small loaf of bread was 25 cents.  Hon. John C. Edwards, formerly Governor of Missouri, was encamped about a mile at the upper end of the town; by the marks on the trees we knew that he was on the road.  He was hauling with his teams for the merchants of the place, and, I suppose, making money.  Returned before sunset to camp at San Gabriel, and passed a cool night.</p><P>The morning of the 3d, Sunday, brought crowds of people to the church from the neighboring ranchos. I went to Mass; after which witnessed the burial of an Indian who had died the day before.  The corpse was interred beneath the floor of the Church.  There is a graveyard adjoining the Church; for what reason the deceased was entitled to this distinction, I did not learn.  Few men attended Mass; many women, many of them richly dressed, graceful and handsome.  The whole scene, "American" by the side of "Mexican," (to adopt the language of the day), Indian and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Mo., had fared badly among the Mormons at Salt Lake City; but, after a trial, by the intervention of two persons who were boys when the circumstances occurred, but who rose to defend him before the assembled Church, he was unanimously acquitted of any participation in the "mob" of Missouri in 1838.</p><P>About 50 miles below the Pimos villages, Gov. Edwards built a boat, 24 ft. by 9 ft., and drawing 10 inches. This was in November.  The man in charge finding the load too heavy, abandoned the waggon intended to be brought down in the boat, and thus defeated the Gov.'s main object.  In December the river rose full, and the boat came safely to the mouth.</p><P>Mr. Nagles represented wheat to be worth from $3 to $5 per bushel, at Salt Lake City; flour, $8 to $10 per 100 lbs.; corn, $1 per bushel; beef, 8 to 10 cents per lb.  Then, on that route, would come a story of starvation, abandonment of valuable property, suffering of women and children in long marches over deserts or in snow; in a word, as one described it to me, "the losses and suffering of the emigrants have scarcely ever been equalled in the history of any expedition on this continent."  All happily forgotten when, on the 31st of December, 1849, he emerged out of the Cajon Pass, and "encamped on a field of oats and clover surrounded by a meadow covered with grass; vines hanging full of half-dried grapes; many thousands of fat cattle, and everything presenting the appearance of <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
026.sgm:." The influx of so many emigrants simultaneously rendered the price of labor cheap; some were working for Col. I. Williams, of Chino, for their boarding, others at Los Angeles for $1 per day.</p><P>I witnessed the funeral procession of an infant, attended by women and girls only, with flags flying and music playing in front cheerful airs, for they did not mourn, but rejoiced that they had another angel in Heaven.</p><P>Sunday, 10th: After Mass, there was a public meeting, in reference to schools and on the subject of taxation.  I looked in at them awhile, then went to the hills to contemplate the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:flowers, and enjoy the balmy air that still prevailed as during the last six days.</p><P>To-day I made the acquaintance of Mr. Montgomery Martin.</p><P>One educated in American customs does not admire these meetings in the day, and perhaps a fandango at night.  For monte Sunday seems to be the day of days. The principal butcher is a lawyer by profession, and I liked him the better for the course he had taken in necessity. His name is Russell Sackett.  He has a large family in Ohio.</p><P>The emigrants who come in needy at once seek work to get means for their main object, a trip to the mines; those who have means at once push on to the El Dorado. Few ever talk of settling down in this section of the new State.  In truth, there appear to be few inducements to do so, in the condition of real estate.</p><P>11th: Today I had the curiosity to "sit out" one of those perplexing <HI REND="italics">mule trials</HI>
026.sgm: now in vogue, and to notice the forms of proceeding before the Alcalde.  On this day, too, comes news of a rich discovery of gold by a company that had been sent out by Col. I. Williams.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III<LB>LOS ANGELES IN THE FIFTIES</HEAD>
026.sgm:<P>JUDGE HAYES TO MRS. HAYES Los Angeles, June 28, 1851.</p><P>Yesterday I witnessed a magnificent ceremony; it was the Octave of Corpus Christi. To-morrow, there will be another grand procession, in commemoration of the <HI REND="italics">Reina de los Angeles</HI>
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026.sgm:four feet of me, where I stood.  I expected him to speak; he did not, so I inquired:</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Quien</HI>
026.sgm:?"</p><P>He replied:</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Quien</HI>
026.sgm:?"</p><P>The strangeness of his reply flashed through my mind; I leaned out and looked intently; I am very nearsighted, could not distinguish who he was; almost immediately after the word <HI REND="italics">Quien</HI>
026.sgm:? there was a hardly perceptible pause; he muttered two or three words which I could not hear; a dark object seemed to cover my vision with an instantaneous flare of light.  I heard no report, or I recollected none afterward.</p><P>Instinctly I slammed to the door, exclaiming:</p><P>"You scoundrel!"</p><P>I stepped to the right, between the door and the window, supposing he would fire again.  The frame of the door was loose in the adobe wall.  Perceiving that he did not fire at once, through the door, I pushed both door and frame out; they fell with a heavy crash.  I had no arms, but this seemed the only alternative.  It occurred to me that he would suppose I was armed and run; or perhaps I had an irresistible impulse to go out against him, in my indignation; I am not entirely certain about this now.</p><P>My office stood some thirty feet back from the street. As I reached the street, I saw him turning a pole fence there then was, where now stands the frame building of Alexander Bell.  He was entering the narrow street made by this fence on one side, and the residence of Don Abel Stearns on the other.  His horse was in full gallop, he leaning over the neck.  With a revolver, where I stood he could have been shot easily.  He went on.  I confess, as I looked around over the silent street, one-half shaded still, I felt an indescribable loneliness.  I went to the closed shop of a restaurateur nearby; rapped; he had not gone to bed; I remained there, he went down to the City, gave the alarm, and soon a crowd of friends came to the spot.</p><P>Upon examination, it was found that the ball had passed through my white hat, then through the door, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:lodged in the adobe wall opposite.  It was Of a large revolver.  I had not before noticed these circumstances, nor had I thought of my hat.  The shot could not have shocked my head much.  In the light, too, someone noticed that my left cheek was slightly scraped; it had some blood upon it over the cheek bone; what did this, I cannot say, probably, a piece of the cap.</p><P>In the excitement occurred the search at a house of <HI REND="italics">Calle de los Negros</HI>
026.sgm:.  But some gentlemen examined closely the tracks from my door, and found them leading in such direction that Sheriff Barton concluded to attempt pursuit, although an hour had elapsed.  He got off before I was aware of his want of due preparation.</p><P>Before we could hear from him, a party of friends and myself were occupied in conjectures as to who could have made the attack, or what could be the motive.  My partner thought the Lugos--two young men whom I had prosecuted, as county attorney, for murder committed more than a year before--were the guilty parties.  I remember saying to my friends that night:</p><P>"When the murderers of Californians can escape, like Ned Hines a few days ago, I do not wonder that revenge is sought, and no distinction is made between innocent and guilty, so that he be an American."</p><P>One of my facetious friends inquired, with a doubtful look:</p><P>"May there not be a woman in the case?"</p><P>I assured him--and it is a solemn truth--that there could not with me be the slightest pretext for a suspicion of this sort.</p><P>When Sheriff Barton returned to form a stronger party, with the news he brought, my partner and myself became convinced that the Lugos were implicated.   We bought three horses, and hired three men to watch the residences of their several relations, and arrest them, for the ordinary power and diligence of the Sheriff was inadequate, with such care were these young men concealed.  After incurring some expense and trouble, we gave up the attempt, as a failure, and they subsequently delivered themselves up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:for trial.  Some testimony was taken; the then District Attorney seemed to think J ought to prosecute, which I declined doing; in disgust at his weakness I left the matter to the Justice of the Peace; they were soon discharged.</p><P>One of the men wounded by the Sheriff, it was confidently reported, had been in Los Angeles the day after the affair to have his wound dressed.  This I believe; but it was too well managed by their friends, both Californians and a few Americans, for discovery by the Sheriff.  Long since, it has been ascertained that <HI REND="italics">Solomon Pico</HI>
026.sgm: was he that fired at me, in company with two others (still strongly suspected to have been these Lugos).  He was wounded in the arm; has bragged of his adventure, as I have it from reliable men.  It is conceded by everybody that he was the man.</p><P>Now, it may be inquired, what was his motive?  I never saw him in my life before, or, if I did, never knew him.   I never had occasion to prosecute him.   He is a nephew of Don P&iacute;o and Don Andr&eacute;s Pico.  So far as I am concerned, <HI REND="italics">he is pardoned</HI>
026.sgm:; but I would like very much to get at the bottom of this matter.</p><P>In the meantime, led as it were by instinct, James R. Barton, then Sheriff of this county, took the tracks from my office in the direction of Mr. Wm. Wolfskill's.  At Gaylord's he learned that about three-quarters of an hour before, horsemen had passed there in a gallop.  An American coming from the Monte, whom he presently met, had seen no person on that road.  A little further Basilio Jurada, just going to bed, had heard horsemen pass up the hill behind his house.  Barton then went up the hill and to Felipe Lugo's, at the forks having noticed tracks going there as well as to the <HI REND="italics">Jaboneria</HI>
026.sgm:. At Felipe's three horses were tied in the yard, but had no sign of recent riding. He determined to make for the <HI REND="italics">Jaboneria</HI>
026.sgm:, and took the road thereto, about a mile from the house of Felipe.</p><P>In this company were John McElroy and Wm. B. Osborne.  The house of Do&ntilde;a C. Lugo stands nearly parallel with the river and about 100 yards from the bank.  They approached it rather at the northwest corner, on the rear, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Barton a little behind the other two; they got close enough to see that a man was Standing near the corner.  When a little nearer, another came riding from the front of the house, and hailed,</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Quien vive</HI>
026.sgm:?"</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Amigos</HI>
026.sgm:," answered Osborne.</p><P>"Halt!  Who are you?" the man said.</p><P>Osborne made the Same reply as before.</p><P>"No, halt, who is <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
026.sgm:?" pointing to the Sheriff.</p><P>"It is your neighbor; don't you know your neighbor?" Osborne answered.</p><P>"Halt!" responded the other, at the same time presenting his pistol and talking incoherently, so that all that could be distinguished was " <HI REND="italics">Salgan muchachos</HI>
026.sgm:!"</p><P>With this he fired, advancing to the Sheriff, when McElroy fired.  As the men approached, Barton's pistol snapped, and the man galloped past him so as to place Barton between him and the house.  Barton then fired and followed him toward the house; here were three men in the shade, apparently coming from the front.  Having exhausted all their shots but one, Barton's party retreated, the others following and firing.  They followed about half a mile, their last shot being at 150 yards.  Barton had approached in a gallop over a hard road and in an open plain, so that he must have been seen and heard some length of time before he neared the house.  This is about ten miles from Los Angeles; he got there in an hour.</p><P>On his second trip, he found in the house Don Ignacio Reyes, wife, and child.  They were in bed; Reyes was sick. No other persons were found there.  At the rancheria nearby an Indian said that the two young Lugos had been there that night.  Reyes said that he had heard the firing, but did not know who were concerned in it.  Further search was made in the neighboring houses and fields.  At Don Antonio Mar&iacute;a Lugo's premises were found Ricardo Uribe, Francisco O'Campo, and Cayetano Herman.  The presence of this latter explains, perhaps, the whole matter.  He was sitting by a horse that had evidently been rode hard that night; the Saddle-blanket was quite wet.  Questioned, he <illus entity="a026-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE ORIGINAL PLAZA CHURCH, LOS ANGELES <HI REND="italics">A photograph in the Notes</HI>
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026.sgm:said he had started from Los Angeles very late and got there before day; he had a Colt's revolver, and a sabre on his saddle.  He had evidently given them the alarm. But I presume I was the cause of this.  By almost a fatality, I had borrowed from <HI REND="italics">his mother</HI>
026.sgm: one of the very horses in Barton's second party, which doubtless brought him down into the city from curiosity.  When he learned--for all were talking about the event freely--that the destination was the Lugo neighborhood, he at once started to put them on their guard.  He is a nephew, I believe, of Jos&eacute; Maria Lugo, father of the supposed culprits.</p><P>(Note:  I had been home from San Francisco four days.  During my absence my office had been used by J. S. Mallard, Justice of the Peace and of the Court of Sessions. A few days before that Court had issued a bench warrant for the rearrest of Benito Lugo, Francisco Lugo, and Mariano Elisalde, accused of murder in the Cajon Pass and who had been admitted to bail by the District Judge.</p><P>My impression is, that the expectation was to find Mallard.  Having come to kill, and not knowing of my return, nor recognizing me, the assailant fired.  Mallard is several inches taller than I am.  If the intention was to avenge the death of Carriarga,<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: as I felt at the time, I could hardly blame them!  I never took pains to prosecute this case. Still I learned, to satisfy the [to me] moral certainty, that two of the aggressors were Benito Lugo and Solomon Pico. The latter was wounded in the arm by the Sheriff, in the pursuit the same night.  Lugo came to a natural death some years later.  Pico was one of the unhappy men whom Esparza at a late day cruelly put to death in Lower California.)<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">Killed by Edward Hines.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">See Chapter VI.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>EMILY'S JOURNAL OF A TRIP TO CALIFORNIA Saturday, [December) 27th, 1851: Left St. Louis to-day  1/4 past three o'clock, a warm cloudy evening.  Took leave of them at Mr. Mudd's at ten o'clock.  It appeared to be two or three days from the time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:I went on the boat until we started.  Ran about 20 miles and stopped for the night.</p><P>Sunday, 28th: To-day we ran about ten miles and came to a gorge, where we had a wait for the ice to move.  We got through with very little difficulty.  We ran a short distance and came to an unexpected gorge 15 miles (nearly?) so we had to lay up for the night.  Part of the evening passed off very pleasantly by some of the gentn. and ladies singing hymns.</p><P>Monday, 29th: We have staid all day, with the exception of running down to the gorge two or three times.  I have felt quite unwell; have been lying down nearly all day.</p><P>Tuesday, 30th: Last night we had rain, with thunder and lightning. This morning the gorge had disappeared.  We started quite early and got along finely until we ran a few miles below Chester, where we came to another gorge, so we had to return again.  We stopped. at a woodyard and remained several hours, and then ran up to Chester, where we will spend the night.  They had quite a dance on the boat last night.  The Capt. came in for the first time, he was one of the head dancers.</p><P>Wednesday, 31st: Another dance on the boat last night.  We are still at Chester without much prospect of getting off, though we heard this afternoon that two boats were coming up through the ice.  If this be true, we will get off to-morrow.  The Capt. told the passengers this morning that they could go, and pay five dollars, or stay, and pay a dollar a day.  Most of the passengers staid.  Some of the Chester ladies came on the boat this evening, part of our company went up with them.</p><P>January 1st, [1852]: Another dance last night, and I danced, the first time for more than three years, but I did not consider that I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:doing any harm.  The gorge has not broken loose as yet. The Capt. told the passengers that he would leave for St. Louis.  We had to return to St. Louis or leave the boat. Most of the passengers decided to go on the <HI REND="italics">Clendenen</HI>
026.sgm:. As soon as the ladies heard the word that we had to leave, I never heard such confusion in my life, <HI REND="italics">repining</HI>
026.sgm: because we are going to leave and confusion of packing.  We were soon on the other boat.  Went on before dinner, had quite a nice dinner and found quite an agreeable change in every thing.  I have spent most of the afternoon on the bed, have not felt well.</p><P>Friday,2d: The dance last night did not go off well; too many wanted to be "boss" and the music was poor.  We heard to our great joy this morning that the gorge had gone. So we are in motion again.  We have run all day, but most Of the time through heavy ice.  We reached Cairo at dark. Here Col. Baker and his wife left us.</p><P>Sat. 3d: We arose before sunrise, cold, frosty, but when the sun rose, it was in all its glory.  We have had a beautiful day.  We have not got along much faster than when we were running through the ice.  I have been quite sick today.  Had a fine lunch in the cabin, but I did not go out to take any.</p><P>Sunday, 4th: Early this morning some of the ladies were awakened by our boat and another striking together; some little injury was done to both boats.  Some of the ladies were very much frightened, thought the boat was sinking.  It has been rather a long day.  Had some singing in the afternoon.</p><P>Monday, 5th: Cloudy, unpleasant morning.  I have been unwell all day.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>Tuesday, 6th: Still cold, though the sun is shining.  I have felt some better to-day.  The ladies have all become quite industrious.  We passed Vicksburgh to-day about eleven o'clock, not as pretty a place as I expected to see.  They have a handsome State House.  They had dancing last night.</p><P>Wednesday, 7th: A beautiful morning, though cool for the South.  We lost one of our passengers last night, but we "miss him good."   This morning Col. Taylor left at Larch Bayou, shook hands with all the ladies.  We have passed some beautiful plantations to-day.</p><P>Thursday, 8th: When we awoke this morning, we found ourselves at New Orleans.  We did not leave the boat until 10 o'clock. It was hard to find a place to put up at.  We stopped at the Western Verandah, quite an old house.  We walked out this afternoon, did not See much, passed some handsome buildings.</p><P>Friday, 9th: Beautiful morning.  This morning I did intend to get up and go to church, but was afraid to Start out alone. After lunch to-day I went out alone shopping; stopped in at a Dentist's and had two teeth filled.  After dinner, we all walked out to see the City again.  We first went to the steamer we were to go on, then to the Cathedral, which we found a splendid building.  On our way home we did some shopping.  Met Mr. and Mrs. Stewart.  It has been a delightful day.</p><P>Saturday, 10th: Left New Orleans at 9 o'clock.</p><P>Tuesday, 13th: Reached Havana this morning before daylight, but the boat was not permitted to enter the harbor until sunrise. The City looked beautiful as we entered the harbor.  The gentlemen of our party went on shore.  They returned in the afternoon and gave a glorious account of the place.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>Wednesday, 14th: Last night there was quite a blow and rain. This morning it is cold and rainy.  A fire would be comfortable. Several of the passengers staid on shore all night; they say it is much colder there than here.  It has continued to be cold and cloudy all day.</p><P>Thursday, [15th]: This morning we had to be up at daylight.  The passengers for New York went on the <HI REND="italics">Georgia</HI>
026.sgm:, and the Capt. gave them breakfast before leaving.  About two hundred Californians came off the <HI REND="italics">Georgia</HI>
026.sgm:.  They were a rough-looking set.  They came to the steamer in a large boat. Several men were in the bottom of the boat, sick.  I tried to get a look at all their faces, to see if I could see any old acquaintance, but all were strangers.  There were 3 or 4 ladies amongst them.  About 10 o'clock we all went ashore. When we landed, we found that the ladies have to have a passport, as well as gentlemen.  We walked through the City, which was something new in Havana; everybody looked at us with astonishment.  We were a great curiosity. There were too many children along to enjoy ourselves. We could not visit any of the Churches without it costing us 4 or 5 dollars.  The suburbs of the City are beautiful, the Square in front of the Governor's palace is lovely. We saw a great many palm trees; it is a beautiful tree, a long, smooth trunk with large, feathery leaves at the top.</p><P>Friday, 16th: Left Havana 10 o'clock.  Reached Chagres Wednesday, 21st; Gorgona Saturday 24th, 1 o'clock; Panama, Sunday evening, 7 o'clock.  Left Panama Monday, January 26th, 4 o'clock.  Got under weigh for San Francisco 8 P.M.  Stopped at the island of Taboga to take in water and other stores.  At 10 P.M. proceeded to sea.  On Tuesday at 6 P.M. passed a steamer under the land, supposed to be the <HI REND="italics">Monumental City</HI>
026.sgm:.  At 12 midnight landed at Acapulco.  ("On Monday, February 22d, having received on board coal and other stores, proceeded to sea at 5 P.M. The <HI REND="italics">Monumental City</HI>
026.sgm: reached Acapulco Feb. 2d at noon." <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:This must relate to the <HI REND="italics">Monumental City</HI>
026.sgm:.  Emily's voyage goes on:) Thursday, Feb. 5th, made Cape St. Lucas at 2 P.M.  Friday, 6th, at 11 A.M., a Mr. Richards, a Steerage passenger, died from the effects of a fall he received, while in a fit.  At 7:30 his remains were committed to the deep. At 11 A.M. were boarded by Capt. Hull of the whaleship <HI REND="italics">Catherine</HI>
026.sgm: of New London, 2 months from the Sandwich Islands and 16 months from home.  Had on board 150 lbs. of oil and had sent home 1500 lbs.</p><P>Monday, Feb. 9th: Arrived at San Diego; found there the propeller <HI REND="italics">M'Kim</HI>
026.sgm:, 72 days from Panama.  (Emily landed at San Diego, and came from there to San Pedro, where I met her.  The Journal continues--)</p><P>Left San Diego at 10:30 A.M., and arrived at San Francisco On Wednesday, 11th, at 8 A.M.  Running time from Panama to San Francisco 14 days 7 hrs.  (This information as to the voyage of the steamer from San Diego to San Francisco must have been derived from some of her correspondents subsequently.  B. H.)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Note:</HI>
026.sgm: This is all the Journal, although it is so meagre. I have in memory many of her observations touching her voyage.  I do regret, however, that I did not take care to write them down at the time.  Her conversational powers were good, and she could give a lively and interesting account of any thing she witnessed.  She rode a mule across the Isthmus, with a side-saddle.</p><P>She came with Col. Fellows and family and Mrs. Woods.  They contributed all within their power to make the time of the invalid pass pleasantly.  Many hours would have been tedious, or worse, but for the attention and kindness Of her companions.  I have since seen Col. Fellows and his daughter, subsequently married in California.</p><P>Mr. Grove Coningham kept her account.  I annex a bill of her expenses, to Shew what travel to California then cost. I sent her only $700; she paid this bill; "went shopping," as she said; and brought to Los Angeles $150.  She was one of the most prudent and economical of women-not parsimonious, however.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>From St. Louis to Chester<HSEP>$6.60 To N. Orleans<HSEP>15.00 Bill in N. O.<HSEP>4.50 Boat to Gorgona<HSEP>18.70 Breakfast and provisions at Chagres<HSEP>3.00 Supper on New River<HSEP>.75 For baggage at Gorgona<HSEP>.20 Bill at Gorgona<HSEP>3.50 One mule to Panama<HSEP>12.00 Baggage<HSEP>7.91 Port entry-Panama<HSEP>2.50 Bill-Panama<HSEP>1.50 Baggage and passage to steamer<HSEP>1.53 Passport to Havana<HSEP>1.00 Sundries not entered<HSEP>2.00 Price of through ticket<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">320.00</HI>
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026.sgm:guess who was our driver--Pete Middleton, of Liberty.  He has been here six years, has a Spanish wife and is bootblacker and barber for the town.</p><P>The site of Los Angeles is lovely, but the city is very ugly.  Most of the houses are built of mud, some are plastered outside, and have a porch around them, looking neat and pretty as any house, but these are  few and far between." We are surrounded almost by high green hills.  Remove this and place here one of the pretty towns in the States, and I do not think there could be a more lovely spot.</p><P>I did not see "the mountain covered with snow" until last Monday. On a clear day I can stand in our door and see it plainly; it makes a beautiful appearance.   (There is an old Californian woman in now, talking as fast as she can; some business.)  Our house is at the foot of a high hill, from which we can see all the surrounding country.  I walked to the top a week ago yesterday.</p><P>I have so far walked but little.  Mr. Hayes has been so much engaged that he has not had time to go with me.  He has to work very hard, not only through the day, but at night.</p><P>I have received more calls than I ever did in my life, nearly all Spanish, of course.  There are very few Americans here, and five of those have called to see me.  The ladies of the country are very pleasant; one of them was quite handsome.  An agreeable lady called yesterday, her children dressed like Americans, and they are learning the English language.  The natives appear to be very kind.  An old lady brought me a chicken last Monday, and on Saturday evening one of them brought me half a dozen oranges.  I suppose Mr. Hayes had done some favor for them, and they wished to shew their gratitude in this way. I must give you a description of my home.  It is a <HI REND="italics">mud</HI>
026.sgm: house, with a mud floor.  The walls are whitewashed, but the ceiling looks like an old smoke-house, and leaks finely when it rains.  There is a little fireplace in one corner where I do my cooking.  We have no andirons. The dirt floor we have covered with matting.  In a long, narrow box nailed to the wall in one corner we keep our dishes, which are a half dozen plates (1 tin plate makes seven), 4 cups and saucers, 3 knives and forks, 6 glasses, 2 or 3 tin cups.  On one side of the room we have a wash-stand, on which I am now writing and where I keep the few books I have, and over this hangs the Madonna which the priest gave Mr. Hayes for me.  On the same side but in the corner stands a "cricket" (a large one), where the bucket of water sits, and the washbowl.  Opposite this is the bed, a thirty dollar bed with a single bed mattress on it, blankets for pillows and bolster.  Mr. H. has sent to San Francisco for a bed and pillows.  Around the bed we have a calico curtain; this forms a dressing-room.  We have five cane-bottom chairs and a great table, as large as Louisa's ironing table, stained all over with ink, two trunks-I believe I have given you a full description of our home. When Court is over, Mr. Hayes intends fixing up a little more.  We had nothing to eat but meat and bread, until Saturday Mr. Eaton brought some beans.</p><P>MRS. HAYES TO A SISTER Los Angeles, March 13, 1852. My dear Sister: We have made a visit in the country, went out Wednesday and returned Saturday.  The country is beautiful, but I suppose there is no comparison between it now and twenty years ago.  The gentleman we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>MRS. HAYES TO A SISTER July 11th, 1852. There was a "grand" celebration here on the Fourth, on Sunday. Mr. Hayes did not join in it. He heard the speeches, but did not go out to the dinner. There was a speech in English, and one in Spanish. They were to have had a procession through the town, but this turned out to be a few men on horseback, racing through the streets, nearly all drunk. The dinner was at a vineyard about a mile from town; I heard it was a very good dinner, but they were there only a short time, returning to town in the same style they left it, and spending the afternoon in firing cannon, drinking, and riding around on horseback.  On Monday night there was a ball. We were invited to Mr. Wilson's to dinner on the Fourth. He had only invited two ladies, Mrs. Hereford and Mrs. McDougall, and a few gentlemen. We had a very nice dinner, indeed; it looked quite like home.  He has an old black woman keeping house for him who is a very good cook.</p><P>Chickens are a rarity here. Those to try cost $1 each. They are so scarce here because they bring such a good price at the North.  I have a hen and one little chicken.</p><P>It is strange that the letter Mr. Hayes wrote me from San Francisco, and those he wrote after he was shot at, have never been received A few days after I came here he received two letters from me, written a year before; one of them had been sent to Santa F&eacute;.</p><P>Mr. Hayes uses the "other room" of the house for his office; but it is to be our bedroom and kitchen, it is a large, pleasant room. The smaller will then be our parlor and his office. When I get my stove, I shall consider myself very well fixed <HI REND="italics">for a new country</HI>
026.sgm:.  We will have a plank floor after a while, it is impossible to get plank here now.  Mr. Hayes wants to build a kitchen next year.  Mr. Eaton has bought himself a small place a mile and a half or two miles below town; he will keep the horses and we will get them whenever we want them.  Mr. Hayes will see about getting lumber to fix our house out at the Mormons'.  We are ready to start to-morrow for a ride over the country.  Mr. Wilson and Mrs. Hereford will go with us.  Mrs. Hereford's health Is not good; she will stop at the Warm Springs, not far from the Mormon settlement.  They will go out in a carriage.</p><P>BENJ. HAYES TO B. M. HUGHES Jan. 24, 1853, Los Angeles. There are three large dry-goods stores and ten smaller ones, all sell groceries, hardware, etc., keep a general assortment.  Half a dozen others sell groceries exclusively.  Of the purely liquor shops, their name is legion.  Too much capital, I think, is invested in these pursuits.  Merchandising cannot much longer be the money-making business it has been, until the quantity of agricultural productions shall be greatly increased, and merchants deal more in produce than they have done for the last three years.  As at present advised, I cannot safely recommend any person to embark on this business.  But I was alluding to the number of merchants in order to shew you that almost anything you want, for housekeeping or wearing apparel, for ladies or gentlemen, can be bought here.  For furniture you could send to San Francisco or, better, go in person.  You can buy everything in San Francisco that you can In New York, and nearly as cheap!  Literally true, new and strange as it may appear.  This California trade is to me a singular affair.</p><P>The ladies are as fond of fine dress as in St. Louis.  In fact it is the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:chief pride of a native California lady to dress up to the height of the fashion  At church, all kneeling, blended together--not in pews,--with their varicolored silks, showy. beautiful shawls or <HI REND="italics">rebosas</HI>
026.sgm: thrown easily and gracefully over the head, they make a gay appearance.  A large bed of tulips, or the same space covered with dahlias and flowers of every hue, would not look half so bright.  Americans dress as usual, say at St. Joseph, among business men; the native California men about the same, making allowance for a national difference of costume, the Californian having a great partiality for the cloth jacket, often embroidered, and the older and richer among them for the stylish <HI REND="italics">mangas</HI>
026.sgm:.  A lady, however, must array herself in costly silk, with a pretty shawl, and if she be of Spanish descent she ought always, if possible, to appear with a new one.  Emily dresses pretty much as at Liberty.  She has not bought a new dress till to-day. and that of calico!  A better plan, while she thinks she does not need them.  American ladies form a society of their own, measurably; and observe their own usages; some of them are excellent women.  Still, I confess, society narrows itself within a very narrow circle, or rather several little circles.  One must learn here to find consolation and "company" at his own fireside.  For me, that is always enough.  There are likewise many most excellent Spanish ladies, but the <HI REND="italics">bailes</HI>
026.sgm: furnish the principal occasions of intercourse between them and American ladies.  We receive anybody that calls to see us.  Indeed, owing to much of my practice, equivocal people have often called.  We visit little, say at present some dozen ladies. Emily is the only American lady attending the Catholic Church.</p><P>The California ladies are an interesting race of females In many respects.  We at least aim to see only their good qualities.  If they have any others, the rest of the world will find them out soon enough. Sometimes the best of them have a charming <HI REND="italics">na&iacute;vet&eacute;</HI>
026.sgm: in conversation, "Ah, no matter, California is <HI REND="italics">muy fertil</HI>
026.sgm:, you will have many yet"--was the smiling reply when, on Emily's arrival, they found she had never had children.  So one, so all,--as they flocked, out of the natural abundance of their hospitality, to welcome the stranger, who, they used to say with a buoyant, manifest sincerity and a sympathizing tone, "was 00 far from her native land and old friends."  They are a kindhearted, amiable, industrious set of women. I like them much better than I do the men.</p><P>The men have their virtues and their faults.  Most of the latter may arise from lack of education and the misrule they so long endured. Americans must not stay away from California because its men, or women, in all things do not yet come up perfectly to our standard. They must come to help in civilizing, educating, and elevating a class who are now our own fellow-citizens and who need, and ultimately will appreciate, our beneficent offices.  The native Californians have all the politeness of manner of the Spanish stock whence they sprung, betraying, however a spice of the Indian character with which they are often intermixed.  I especially like their children, who are very sprightly and quick to learn.</p><P>We have four or more little schools, not of a very high order; two teach English.  A subscription is making up to bring the Sisters of the Sacred Heart from Valparaiso.  A pity that we cannot have two or three Sisters of Charity who understand English and Spanish.  Preaching is In Spanish.  There is a good old Padre at the Mission of San Gabriel, who speaks a little English, and Emily went to confession to him not long since.</p><P>The people certainly appear to be pious Catholics, and the clergy do all they can for them at present.  But there needs the vigor of the Bishop.  However, the way I look at them, they are mixed, good and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm: can find time to attend to it, their own necessities will require it, to say nothing of the rest of the community.</p><P>Los Angeles County has a great quantity of public land.  But in the present state of land litigation, I cannot well undertake to designate its locality. Those interested will soon find it out. The best land is held under Mexican grants.  There is room still for a vast number of settlers, and they are coming in rapidly, making their little farms, as in the Platte country, wherever a desirable spot can be discovered. Heaven send more of them!  When we are full up here, we can go over into Sonora, where I saw much choice land on my journey to California.</p><P>You can bring a <HI REND="italics">sufficient</HI>
026.sgm: library across the Isthmus; too great an expense to bring a <HI REND="italics">desirable</HI>
026.sgm: one, embracing other subjects than Law. There is consolation in History, Poetry, and Science, and I could almost advise you to bring fewer lawbooks, if they are to deprive you of those sources of exalted pleasure.  If I found myself likely to be encumbered I would sell all except the Missouri and Kentucky reports in addition to those of Louisiana and New York, and works on the Civil Law.  Most of the elementary works are here or can be obtained easily.</p><P>The Mormons live huddled together In a small town of this county and number a thousand souls, not a case of sickness amongst them.  A large settlement of Americans about 12 miles from this City enjoy the same good fortune.  Although they are on a river which overflows its banks, and get water by sinking wells on their respective places, at the depth of five feet, and their location therefore would be supposed to be ordinarily unhealthy, damper than almost any other part of the country (for they raise every species of vegetable, and corn, without irrigation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>Feb. 24: Pretty weather.  Fort Hill full of promenaders; a gay party retired off from them, but in sight, a sort of picnic.</p><P>Sept. 23: Dinner by the City Council to the Naval and Military Commission of the Coast Survey.</p><P>Dec. 7: A heavy gale at San Pedro forced the vessels to put to sea.</p><P>Jan. 29, 1851: The first regular steam packet arrived at San Pedro a few days since.  (I have lost further notes made in 1851 and 1852).</p><P>Jan. 1, 1853: The mail rider from San Diego arrived in this city on Wednesday, having been 10 days on the road, including a detention of 7 days at the Santa Ana, that river being impassable for that length of time.</p><P>Exchange of kindnesses between friends on this happy New Year.  Shall I live to see another?  To the mercy of God I commit myself and mine.  Went to Mass.  Took the oath of office as District Judge, endorsed on certificate of election, my commission not having yet arrived.  Have determined to proceed in my judicial functions, without waiting for the commission.  In the afternoon, finished the map to accompany the report of Indian Agent (Benj. D. Wilson).  Mr. Wilson, in this matter, is acting with a spirit of philanthropy most honorable to him.  This Report is of date December 26,1852, prepared by me, at his instance, from information derived from Don Juan Bandini, Hon. J. J. Warner, and Hugo Reid, Esq.  One copy for the Superintendent, Lt. E. Beale; with the other, Mr. Wilson goes to the Legislature, now in session, to obtain their co-operation in his plans for the Old Mission Indians.</p><P>Harry Munro, "Little" Harry, "Crazy" Harry, starts to-morrow with a small company, well fitted out, for a gold <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:1850-1851.  As a proof of their present friendship, I may state that some two weeks ago they took a band of horses from some Sonorians that had Stolen them and delivered them up to their owner here.  They Say that one of the Sonorians was Joaquin Murrieta.  Most of these Indians speak Spanish and some can read and write.</p><P>9th: Went to Mass, a large congregation, many men.  An Indian, pretty well-dressed, but rather under the effects of liquor, I met to-day in great glee, happily shouting, " <HI REND="italics">Viva el rey Americano</HI>
026.sgm:!"</p><P>Brought a beautiful orange-colored flowering bush from the hills for our garden.  Renito, my Cahuilla Indian servant, arrived this morning with his "wife."  They have been gone to the mountains near San Bernardino for two months to see their <HI REND="italics">parientes</HI>
026.sgm:.  They appeared to be delighted to meet us again, and we were equally so to see them.  Coming in just now for salt for his meat, he informs me that at the site of one of their villages there are masses of rock-salt.  He gave me some of the words of their language, and I hope to pursue this subject with him. The cook-stove put up to-day, to the great gratification of wife; previously cooked at the fireplace.</p><P>12th: Finished writing a bill for an "act to define the jurisdiction of the District Court of the First Judicial District," and a bill for an "act to regulate appeals from County Courts, and Justices', Mayors', and Recorders' Courts;" also two explanatory letters to our representatives.  Wrote to Senator Atchison of Missouri against a change of Indian Agent here.  I have preserved an extract:</p><P>"In the whole District my vote was 923, to 279.  The Democratic electoral majority in this county was 75, and less in the district.  So, as you see, I am considerably ahead of the party.  This vote does not indicate a large population-like our old `glorious' Platte country, but the counties are large.  The litigation is heavy, and Of an important character.  I shall have my hands full.  This is a far off country, dear Judge, but one of great interest.  I feel that <illus entity="a026-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FATHER BLAS RAHO <HI REND="italics">From a faded photograph in the Notes</HI>
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026.sgm:thousand, for live-fences.  I believe he always has enough of firewood, through the year, for his large establishment, and much to sell.  He has vines in his vineyard 80 years old, still bearing well.  The orange trees are loaded with ripe fruit.</p><P>26th: Mr. Wm. Wolfskill transplanted several <HI REND="italics">large</HI>
026.sgm: orange trees to his place in the city.  Eat California raisins from Ramon Ybarra's, very good.  In the afternoon we rode to the hills north of the town; a grand view of the sea, and Mounts San Bernardino and San Jacinto, and the valley of the river of Los Angeles.  Saw six wild flowers in bloom, brought home a peonia, also a flower called here <HI REND="italics">capetone</HI>
026.sgm:, with a deep Scarlet blossom; transplanted both.  Emily walked down the precipitous hill to the river, I leading the horses.</p><P>Feb. 1st: Court opened.  Room damp and unhealthy, and wholly unsuitable.  Sheriff ordered to procure another room.</p><P>Reading Frayssinous' <HI REND="italics">Defence of Christianity</HI>
026.sgm: in Spanish.</p><P>At the proper date I forgot to notice a letter I received from the Rev. P. A. Lestrada, parish priest of the Catholic Church here, directed to me as District Judge:</p><P>"With every sentiment of affliction and grief, I beg leave to address you these few lines.  You and your lady being Catholics, I am surprised that a sacrilegious circus company are insulting religion and disturbing the religious exercises customary at this hour in the temple of God, and this under your own eyes!  I am awaiting <HI REND="italics">una orden de policia</HI>
026.sgm:.  May you live a thousand years," etc.</p><P>He stated what was only too true, but I could only refer him to the Mayor who had licensed the company. The city authorities pay little respect to Sunday.</p><P>Reread Emory's report of Kearny's march, etc.</p><P>April 3: Commenced reading Balmes's <HI REND="italics">Protestantism and Catholicity</HI>
026.sgm:.  During the last week I have begun a thorough revision of law, which I pursue in the morning.  I read <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Wilkes's <HI REND="italics">Exploring Expedition</HI>
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026.sgm:aside our personal feelings and take a man whom we may not like personally?  Or shall we allow them to influence us and take up one who, we know, will make legislation bend to his own pecuniary interests, and trade us off whenever he can make any thing by it?  Gwin <HI REND="italics">has</HI>
026.sgm: served the State.  Broderick and McDougall belong to the same class of politicians, and <HI REND="italics">have</HI>
026.sgm: I have.  The people commonly reward their faithful public servants by a continuance of favor, and it would be well for politicians--who may have a temporary power--to imitate their example.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>August 15th: This is always a gay day in Los Angeles, where there are so many French, for it is also the birthday of their present Emperor.</p><P>Sept. 12: (Mrs. Hayes to a sister):  Mr. Hayes starts to-morrow for San Francisco, to draw his salary, $2000 of which is now due.  It has been only two weeks Since he returned from San Diego.  He was there nearly three weeks.</p><P>Oct. 11: (Mrs. Hayes to a sister): Mr. Hayes saw Ann Holliday in San Francisco.  She has never been well since her little girl was killed at Sacramento.  Mr. Hayes dined at Gen. Estell's, saw Hiram Summers and Mr. McCoun; got Miss Fellows to buy some things for me, a velvet mantle, a couple of silk dresses, a handsome head-dress, (his own choice), etc.  He brought Chauncey a pretty hat and feather, a rattle, a willow chair, etc.  On Saturday Mr. H. will start for San Bernardino to hold the Court.  I think of going 20 miles into the country with him.</p><P>Jan. 25, 1854: The journal of last year ended in April at the birth of the boy.  Since, I have hardly written a line, although often I must have watched the heavens with an anxious eye.  He is now well, and, to quote his mother, "the sweetest thing in the world."</p><P>To-day Senate and Borghias, two assassins, are brought in dead.  The officers failing to find them, Sheriff Barton offered a reward of $500 for them dead or alive. They were killed by one of their companions in the late robbery of Lelong, Atanacio Moreno, a bankrupt merchant who joined the remnants of the Murietta gang.  I remonstrated with the Sheriff when he offered this reward.  A bad state of society.  They were delivered at the jail by the stepfather of Manuel Marquez, and the reward paid.</p><P>Jan. 28th: The trail between here and the Tejon is impassable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:then occurring to me, and cannot just now remember surely even the year, nor does it matter.  I passed a pleasant summer there.  It is about nine miles from Emily's birthplace; she was then a little girl, in Missouri.  I have often been to Spesutia Church, within a mile of the very house that first heard her voice.  Providence seems to have so directed my steps, that she should be the source of all the happiness I have enjoyed, or expect to enjoy, upon earth. Her sister Carrie once told me that she had seen these lines in some book entitled <HI REND="italics">Select Poetry</HI>
026.sgm:, doubtless credited to another person.  I remember my brother John, who was a <HI REND="italics">passable</HI>
026.sgm: poet, caused them to be printed in a newspaper of Kent Co., Md., as "by a barrister-at-law."  Miss Mary's fair cousin, the serious Priscilla Day, insisted upon the choir singing them in the village meeting-house.  My modesty rebelled against that; I now wish I had consented, just to have <HI REND="italics">one more</HI>
026.sgm: reminiscence.  Alas, I begin now to call back "old times!"</p><P>THE CHRISTIAN SOLDIER Air:  The Soldier's Tear <HI REND="blockindent">Upon the world he turns<LB>A careless, scornful eye,<LB>And weeps to think, though frail its joys<LB>How many for them sigh.<LB>Fair Pleasure's syren sounds<LB>Charm not his pious ear,<LB>With Sin he strives, for friends that fall<LB>He meekly drops a tear.<LB>His banner is the cross,<LB>His lance a holy prayer,<LB>His shield is Faith-the only arms<LB>His Savior deign'd to bear.<LB>And should he e'er prove weak<LB>Corruption seems too dear,<LB>To God he lifts a sorrowing heart,<LB>Who dries the bitter tear.<LB>Go, view the foremost seat<LB>In realms of bliss above,<LB>Where saints proclaim eternal praise<LB>To the Prince of Peace and Love--<LB>Behold, those Spirits bright<LB>Receive the soldier there;<LB>His work fulfill'd, his perils past,<LB>He sheds no more a tear.</HI>
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026.sgm:<P>Feb. 13th: Herrera executed to-day.  ("God" etc.)</p><P>Feb. 14th: Thirty-nine years old; I don't seem to myself to be so. A little party to supper, consisting of my married and single Sisters, Mr. B. S. Eaton, Mary Scoff, my little niece Mary Alice Eaton, and Mr. Wm. A. Wallace.  Evening spent in conversation and music, most pleasantly.  I did not forget to have Sung The Star Spangled Banner.  I must commence a new career--see if I can be better, with the grace of God.</p><P>Some doubts as to whether I ought not to have fixed the execution of Ignacio Herrera for to-day, instead of yesterday.  To-day would have been the last of the term allowed by law (60 days), but in the view that this was my birth-day, (and for no other reason), I designated yesterday at 3 P.M. or this execution.  And the poor fellow suffered the penalty with evident repentance, and the prayers of all the Catholic population went up to Heaven for him.  He had been a soldier in Mexico; a martial band of Mexicans accompanied him to the scaffold, at their own request, candles were burnt there last night, and to-day he was buried with martial music and religious rites.  He had killed one of his own race, about a woman!</p><P>Feb. 16th: Started for San Bernardino to hold court.  Stayed at John Roland's.</p><P>Feb. 19th: Started early; 10 miles to Don Ignacio Alvarado's. Rode 10 miles in the showers toward Agua Mansa, when it ceased along my road.  About 8 P.M. reached Slover's, 35 miles from Roland's, a dreary day's ride.  Hospitably entertained at all three places.</p><P>Feb. 21st: Finished business in court.  Put up at the Bishop's tavern.  His lady.  Negro servants.  Good table.  The Bishop himself, a Mississippian.  Lyman, Rich, Hopkins, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:their attention to education.  Industry, prospects, and character of the Mormons at San Bernardino.  Mrs. Col. Jackson gives me various choice Seeds.</p><P>Feb. 22d: Started home.  20 miles to Coco-mungo.  Nearly 10 miles further to Alvarado's.  Entertained kindly; reached this place at night; I was cold and hungry.</p><P>Feb. 23d: Dined at Roland's, thence home to wife and baby. An Indian girl who used to wash for us came in and sauntered through the garden.  After looking round everywhere, she seemed to think there was very little useful in it, asking me, "Why, se&ntilde;or, do you not sow <HI REND="italics">calabazas</HI>
026.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">zandias</HI>
026.sgm:?"  What a question for the heart of a florist!  In self-defence I appealed to my <HI REND="italics">chiceros</HI>
026.sgm: (peas) but she replied, "There are so few of them!"  I believe she was right; I must think more of the onions and potatoes than I have done.</p><P>Feb. 28th: To-morrow the <HI REND="italics">Southerner</HI>
026.sgm: ought To arrive with definite news as to the appointment of U. S. District Judge for the Southern District of California.  My friends seem confidently to expect that I will get it.  In the chances of politics, I may be disappointed.  If so, I believe I will easily make myself contented, as I hold an office that is grateful to my feelings, amongst a people who <HI REND="italics">elected</HI>
026.sgm: me, and whose confidence I seem to possess.  After all, perhaps the other office might sadly change all my best plans heretofore made for life.  Nor should a man ever too much desire office.</p><P>When the U. S. Judicial District was about to be established for Southern California, I was induced by many friends here to apply for the appointment.  Numerous recommendations were forwarded to Washington from this quarter.  Jonathan R. Scott, Esq., for one, wrote to Senator Atchison.  All the lawyers of Santa Barbara, except one, concurred.  Senator Atchison wrote to Mr. Scott:  "I will exercise all the influence I have, in favor of my old friend Ben. Hayes for District Judge.  I have already <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:spoken to Gwin and Weller."  By his letter to me of date Jan. 16, 1854, I was informed that he had placed before the President my recommendation for District Judge.  Hon. D. B. Kurtz, member of the Legislature from San Diego county, wrote to me as follows:  "His Excellency, the Governor, informs me that a petition in your favor, had already been forwarded to Washington, signed by the Governor, Controller, Treasurer, and Secretary of State, urging your claims in preference to any other applicant."</p><P>March 19th: This evening news arrived that Mr. Ogier had been appointed U. S. District Judge.  I received my disappointment more calmly than might have been expected.  Perhaps I am the less chagrined from the fact that San Francisco, as we learn, has been attached to the Southern District.  With my family, my real interest would keep my residence at Los Angeles, where I may be able to save something.  So I am pretty well reconciled to the result.</p><P>April 5th: Sentenced Atanacio Moreno for 15 years to the state's prison.  He took the sentence with perfect composure.</p><P>April 11th: In the afternoon went to San Pedro, bound for San Diego.  Flowery plains. Waited a week for a boat at San Pedro, and at San Diego, the day I got there, no Court, there being no Sheriff, nor Coroner, nor Court of Sessions to fill vacancies.</p><P>May 13th: Started to San Bernardino to hold court.</p><P>May 15th: Adjourned the Court, short session.  Mormons progressing rapidly with their improvements.</p><P>May 16th: Started home; rode to King's, 50 miles; very tired; I am getting old, I fear.  Next day, home; all well. Planted cuttings given me by Mrs. Jackson.  Letter from Hon. Peter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:H. Burnett, in which he says, "I keep my eye on death, which is not far off."</p><P>May 21st: Chauncey's first trip in his little carriage.  He was baptized November 15th, 1853, at the Church, by Rev. Father Anacleto Lestrada. The god-father and god-mother reside at St. Louis; they were represented at the baptism, the former by Don Antonio F. Coronel, the latter by Mary Scott.  Fifteen dollars were presented to the priest, and a handful of pic-a-yunes thrown out to be scrambled for by the boys of the neighborhood, whom the well-known merry peals of the Church bells had collected to the scene, according to custom.</p><P>I should have noted that on the passage of my sisters from San Francisco to San Pedro, December, 1853, they were near being lost.  The terrors of that gale have been described to me by men of stout hearts, who were passengers.  The rudder of the <HI REND="italics">Goliath</HI>
026.sgm: was lost 35 miles from Santa Cruz.  By setting the jib, Capt. S. Haley managed to keep her off shore.  The gale fortunately abated Dec. 10 and one of the quarter-boats, under charge of the mate, proceeded to Santa Cruz, where a temporary rudder was constructed.  At S P.M. of that day she came to anchor at Santa Cruz, whence she proceeded on her voyage on the evening of the 15th.  There was considerable rejoicing among the passengers at their escape from threatened destruction. Nov. 24th: My address to the prisoner Felipe Alvitre was read to him by the Interpreter.  Alvitre was accused of the murder of James Ellington, an American, at the Monte.  He has confessed to this and another murder, and has been sentenced to die Jan. 12th next.  My address, in fact, was not prepared for him but rather to be published for the benefit of his young countrymen, who are betraying too many signs of hostility to <HI REND="italics">Americanos</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>Nov. 20th: I have to-day pronounced sentence of death upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:David Brown, accused of the murder of Pinckney Clifford. Despite the forming of a threatening mob, he has been duly tried and convicted.</p><P>[Later note, interpolated:] To Herrera, I merely read the judgment; to Brown, on overruling the motion for a new trial, I made no remarks directly but incorporated them in my observations on the motion, (intending, however, to Soften his feelings, if possible, and I believe he was somewhat affected).  To Luciano Tapia, one of the murderers of Barton,<ANCHOR ID="n3-3">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: I made an address, to explain the nature of his offense as an <HI REND="italics">accessory</HI>
026.sgm:; I do not think that he comprehended me at all, and am not certain if, at the very last, he recognized the justice of his punishment.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-3">P. 160, Note.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>Alvitre was executed on Jan. 12, 1855.  The Supreme Court granted Brown a stay of execution, while apparently ignoring the petition of Alvitre, who was poor and friendless.  Angered at the clemency extended to Brown, a mob seized and executed him.  A stay of execution was received on behalf of Alvitre a week after his death, the delay having been caused partly by the slowness of the mails, and partly by the fact that the petition had been forwarded first to the Governor, thus delaying its consideration.<ANCHOR ID="n3-4">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-4">S. C. Foster, Mayor of Los Angeles, resigned and led the vigilantes who hanged Brown, having stated that he intended to do so if the courts did not insure the execution.--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>Nov. 7th: Much uneasiness is felt, because of the scarcity of feed upon the ranchos, threatening material losses to the stock-owners.  Many sections of the country described as perfectly denuded and poverty-stricken.  A brief winter and an early spring are devoutly prayed for.</p><P>August 18th, 1856: The law fixes the time of holding the District Court in San Diego County on the 19th of August.  The Court in Los Angeles was terminated on yesterday, remaining in session till the last moment in consequence of the pending trail of Wm. W. Jenkins for the alleged murder of Antonio Ruis.  The papers I have filed away shew the intense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:excitement this has produced.  In fact, it was absolutely necessary that the case be tried promptly.</p><P>To-day I have been occupied through the whole afternoon in preparing a report of the trial to be translated into Spanish to be published in the <HI REND="italics">Clamor Publico</HI>
026.sgm:.  I experienced some difficulty in getting so many papers translated before leaving, but, by diligence and perseverance, translating the easier portions myself, I made it all ready and delivered it to the editor.<ANCHOR ID="n3-5">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-5">In July, 1856, Wm. W. Jenkins, a deputy constable, attached the property of a Mexican named Antonio Ruis, who resisted the action and was shot by Jenkins, dying on the following day. Although Judge Hayes issued a warrant for the arrest of Jenkins, he was permitted to remain at large.  A meeting of Ruis's friends was held at his grave, and the excitement spread to the turbulent lower classes in the community, who took up the fight against the authorities.  Owing to the intense feeling existing against Jenkins, Judge Hayes ordered him to jail, and Sheriff D. W. Alexander and a group of armed citizens posted themselves outside.  Taking advantage of the general disorder, a party of men robbed the house of the parish priest, took up a position on the hill overlooking the town, and there engaged in a fight with Marshal W. C. Getman.  Persons living outside the town came in for protection; El Monte sent 36 armed men to assist the authorities; the local militia was called out; citizens organized armed groups and scouts under Andr&eacute;s Pico and others scoured the surrounding hills.  Pico captured one Carierga or Carriaga, the leader of the gang which robbed the parish house.  Both Carriaga and Jenkins were released on bail.--Editor.</NOTE>
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026.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV<LB>SAN DIEGO AND SAN BERNARDINO, 1856-1857</HEAD>
026.sgm:<P>August 19th, 1856: By 10 o'clock A.M., having been disappointed both in a carriage and in company, I finally started alone on horseback.  I believed that I ought not to live in a community which I could not safely travel through alone.  I carried nevertheless a double-barrel shotgun and a bowie knife, a precaution considered proper in the disturbed state of Los Angeles county; although I must say, as much as I have been through it, I have never been molested, and rarely has any one been troubled <HI REND="italics">on the road</HI>
026.sgm:.  Highway robbery seldom occurs; I remember very few instances, I mean in this section of the State.  "Robbers and assassins flooding the county" is a common exaggeration.  I do not believe in it, yet do not wish to be foolhardy, and consequently carry arms when I travel to the Courts.  I hope the day may soon come when they can be dispensed with.</p><P>Horse incorrigibly lazy walking, did not like to gallop, intolerably rough on a trot, really good for a buggy but the worst under a saddle I ever rode.  Not having been on horseback for several months, I was glad to stop at the first house, the hospitable rancho of Los Coyotes.  I had thought to go ten miles further to the rancho of Don Teodosio Yorba.   But after partaking of coffee and bread, looking at the garden, and conversing for some time with the family, concluded to accept an invitation to stay the night.  This was but twenty miles from the city.  Passed the rest of the day pleasantly; everything done to make me comfortable.  The supper a full dinner in California style.</p><P>Don Francisco O'Campo sat down with me, although, as he said, it was not his custom to eat supper.  I afterward saw the family taking only tea.  (Jan. 1, 1861: The amiable and interesting widow of Don Juan Bandini now resides here.  With her presence the mansion must be more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:joyful than ever.  B. H.)  He married the widow of Juan B. Leandry; she is mentioned by Emory.  This is one of the best ranchos in the country; has a great deal of water, in an ordinary season will sustain many cattle, but this year they have had to send some 800 head to be pastured in the mountain valley of Cuyamaca, San Diego County.  A magnificent spring gushes out at the foot of the hill on which the dwelling stands, and others as good are numerous elsewhere on the premises.  They took some trouble to make a very pretty garden; in the end, a pet bear destroyed it; on one side was a fine hedge of young mezquite.</p><P>A good sleep.  At daylight Don Francisco guided me over the <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
026.sgm: some distance, when <HI REND="italics">Adios</HI>
026.sgm:.  I made the intervening distance in time to dismount just as Don Teodosio was sitting down to breakfast.  These are the only two houses immediately on the road.  He made me take a seat, without unnecessary ceremony, and with three or four of his <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
026.sgm: we went `to work' (literally) upon the viands.  Finished a hearty meal, the <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
026.sgm: most excellent, as usual, and so, indeed, the rest Of the fare.  Then Don Teodosio proceeded to dress for Los Angeles.  Somewhat tired, I lounged upon a bed in the room, taking him at his word that the house Was at my disposition.  He arrayed himself in full Californian costume of the old style, and made as gay an appearance as if he was going to see his novia, (which may have been a fact, although he is married). (Subsequently I was present at the interment of his wife.  They had miscalculated the size of the coffin, and the opening of the vault was not large enough for its entry; the top was broken off piece by piece, to make it fit, while the spectators remained waiting, a painful spectacle. She seemed to refuse to be buried.  B. H.)</p><P>This rancho, Santa Ana, lies upon both banks of the river of that name.  He has not removed any cattle., His brother, Don Bernardo, three miles above, who must have equally as much grass, has paid Messrs. Rich, Lyman, and Hanks, proprietors of the rancho of San Bernardino, the sum of $1850 for pasturing 5000 head nine months of the present year.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>On the tract of the two brothers, and all along the river, there is a vast extent of fine, arable land, much of it good for the grape, and all kinds of fruit.  The grape ripens here sooner than in other parts of the country. There is room for a population twenty times larger than now occupies the township of Santa Ana; <HI REND="italics">Yankees</HI>
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026.sgm:the clamor of the same number of "American-born" citizens would have been infinitely louder and more methodical; and, for that reason, would have had greater effect upon the politicians that have wielded our destinies.  But the Californians vent their griefs too reservedly.  It is only to their friends they unbosom themselves, and always very quietly.  As yet they have not come universally to appreciate their position as a component part of <HI REND="italics">the people</HI>
026.sgm:.  And to me this has often been a subject of regret, and, often, of inconvenience, not to say labor.</p><P>At this time Don Juan's mind was full of a grievance of his own, the first I have known him to have.  He has seemed to get along smoothly, "minding his own business," indulging in none of the vices of his countrymen, and steadily accumulating wealth. Without being a miser, he is reputed to save his money, and in this country of fine horses you can hardly call horse-racing a vice; in this sport alone does he ever risk his money.</p><P>Since March 1st he has removed a thousand or fifteen hundred head of cattle to a rancho in San Diego County, designing to remove another thousand now perishing here for grass.  All of his cattle were assessed by the Assessor of Los Angeles.  The Assessor of San Diego assessed to him 2500 head in that county; and he received notice that a sufficient number of them would be sold on August 10th to pay the tax.  He hurried sixty miles to Los Angeles City for his certificate of assessment; thence to San Diego, 140 miles, to present it before the Board of Equalization. After some discussion, it was concluded to await the session of the District Court.  He says he has already traveled 260 miles on this business, been long delayed, with detriment every day to his stock; now has to travel another 120 miles; perhaps, employ a lawyer; lose more valuable time. Such hardships make a man somewhat feverish, and after awhile become his absorbing thought. His neighbors are in the same situation; indeed, the question has become of general interest, the inadequacy of pasturage having compelled many to remove their stock to San Diego, San Bernardino, Santa Barbara, or even Tulare.  Don Juan brought out his papers, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:and began to lay the case before me.  I recommended him to wait for the action of the Board.</p><P>I found then that I should have a goodly escort to San Diego.  But a change of horses could not be made "for love or money" at San Juan, which I have never seen before here.  But none of the people can keep up more than one or two horses for their own necessary use.</p><P>San Juan Capistrano is situated in a narrow valley, about two miles from the sea.  Its Indians were the finest both of appearance and disposition in California; of all the most easily converted.  The biographer of Father Junipero Serra represents them as crowding to the baptismal font, of their own accord, without waiting for the presents that seemed to be necessary to make a beginning with the natives around the other Missions.   The Indians of San Juan who survive--but they are few in number--answer to this description of their progenitors.  I have had to do with several, on business of their own, who evince an intelligence not inferior to the average of rancheros recognized as citizens.  Some of the Mission buildings remain, in a dilapidated condition.  Don Juan Forster resides in the main building, and claims it as his property by purchase during the governorship of his brother-in-law, Don P&iacute;o Pico.  The garden has not been watered for years and would seem to be ruined irrecoverably.  In the year 1812, an earthquake threw down a great part of the church.</p><P>The Departmental Government allotted lands to the neophytes which are still cultivated by some of them. But during the past year, some Sonorians have usurped the water, and even intruded upon the little lots of the Indians. Ignorant of our laws, without means to pay lawyers, they recently came twice to Los Angeles, to complain to me. What could <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
026.sgm: do for them? Nothing--effective. Nor have we an Indian agent to take their cause in hand.  As they had irretrievably lost their crop for the present year, (which they themselves suggested, but wanted protection for the future), I told them, if they were intruded upon again this fall at planting and sowing time, to come to me and I would recommend them to a lawyer from whom they could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:get advice.  What a prospect this, to an unsophisticated Indian!  How will he ever comprehend why the <HI REND="italics">Juez de Distrito</HI>
026.sgm: cannot give him redress, with the simple waving of his cane !</p><P>San Juan boasts a peaceful population, in general. Sometimes they elect a couple of Justices of the Peace and constables. The "elect" are not of an ambitious class, and have never taken the oath of office since 1851.  How they settle their local controversies I know not; I think they have very few.  The last Justice of the Peace they had made several concessions of lots in what they still call their Pueblo--it was a Pueblo once--supposing that he had power to do so the same as an alcalde.  I was then in the practice of law, and advised against this, as it might lead individuals into trouble.  I have heard nothing more of it; perhaps it would have been as well to have let him go on in his own way.  In all, there are 60 voters here. What there is of San Juan is desirable to be owner of, for those who wish to live there.  With or without township government, it gets along pretty well in its own way; nobody knows how, except the people themselves.  At a general election, however, it attracts considerable notice, and one thing is certain, the tax assessor and collector never forget their annual visitation.  Fortunately, there is to be no payment of taxes this year.  And my Indian friends were rejoiced when I told them this, for, robbed of the use of their lands by some of the worthless Sonorians who infest the county, they were afraid the Sheriff might take the land itself, and turn them out with their families to the mountains which they had 80 long ago abandoned.</p><P>Within a few miles is a hot springs, celebrated for its medicinal virtues.  I have known it to be tried successfully in some affections.  On the other side, after a short walk, one may sport in the waves of the sea.</p><P>I am not an epicure; eat what is set before me; at home we live on a very plain diet.  But I do like occasionally the seasoned dishes of the Californians, " <HI REND="italics">chile colorado</HI>
026.sgm: " and all. I really enjoyed my supper, and the lively strain of Stanley gave zest to everything.  Nor should I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:forget the happy observations of the ladies.  The table cleared, over a cup of coffee we--Don Juan and myself--fell to discoursing, as you always will at a rancho, upon the frequency of horse-stealing, in Los Angeles County. He agreed with me that the Judges of the Plains, if they were more energetic, might contribute much more than they do to the protection of this species of property. They form a complete network, one on each rancho, and are appointed by the Supervisors, with power to arrest and imprison all vagrants.</p><P>'Tis impossible to get off from a California rancho--so we may designate this spacious mansion--before 9 o'clock if you wait to <HI REND="italics">almorzar</HI>
026.sgm:.  Breakfast over, we lingered and loitered still.  Meanwhile rode up the Padre, equipped for the Mission of San Luis Rey, where next Sunday is to be celebrated the <HI REND="italics">Fiesta de San Luis</HI>
026.sgm:.  At length even he became impatient.  Going round to the stables, we found a <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
026.sgm: leisurely saddling the horses.  I saddled my own at once.  Soon Don Juan belted on his pistol; his sabre was already fastened to the saddle. Thus armed, I concluded to treat him as my "champion," and left my gun in charge of Stanley, to be sent on when the carriage should pass.  Don Juan told me, too, "no <HI REND="italics">hacer contingencia</HI>
026.sgm:."</p><P>The Padre and I went off in the lead, stopping at an orchard on the roadside, belonging to an Indian, to get some pears.  There are about twenty trees.  The tide was not high. Galloping along the edge of the waves on the beach, soon reached San Mateo creek, which is the dividing line between the counties of Los Angeles and San Diego.  Dismounting to water the horses, the Padre let go his rope and the horse waded beyond his reach.  I mounted and caught the animal for him.  Much of the tule here had been recently cut by the Indians for their various uses.   This rancho, San Mateo, belongs to Don Juan Forster.  Here we ascend to the highland and pursue it to the old mission establishment of Las Flores.  Some ruins of this still remain. The sea is always in sight, and a ship was bearing southward, too close, we thought to the shore.  A Chile&ntilde;o resides at San Mateo, only an Indian family at Las Flores.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:From a spring just below the ruins, the water soon forms a small spring or zanja and flows down the valley; properly husbanded, it might irrigate much land.  An old man and two Indian girls were there, who gave us a drink of water.</p><P>Don Diego Sep&uacute;lveda had brought here some 800 head of cattle from Los Angeles.  He thought they would be more apt to stay on this pasturage, as the Seaside had been their <HI REND="italics">creancia</HI>
026.sgm:.  Don Andr&eacute;s Pico claims the rancho of Las Flores.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: The Indians say it is theirs.  There were many of them here when I passed two years ago.  For some misconduct among them, their chief, Manuelito, withdrew them to the interior, if my memory serves.  Mosquitoes are plenty.  Tired, I lay down behind the Indian's fence, spreading over me my <HI REND="italics">botas</HI>
026.sgm: to shield me from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:sun; I could not sleep, but was considerably recruited when the rest were ready to start.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">The Santa Margarita ranch consists of a number of Mexican grants. the nucleus being Rancho Santa Margarita y Las Flores, which extends from the top of the mountain range to the sea and from the Orange County, formerly the Los Angeles County, line to the San Luis Rey River.  The first Spanish land expedition in 1769 named the Santa Margarita River, which rises in the Tem&eacute;cula hills and flows west into the Pacific Ocean, the first river north of the San Luis Rey.  The house is built on a terrace in the river valley and faces north and west.   Several rooms have been  added to the original adobe on the south and the whole building has been faced with white cement.  The house is first mentioned in the report of Father Ant&oacute;nio Peyri of San Luis Key Mission for October, 1827.  The report calls Santa Margarita a <HI REND="italics">sitio</HI>
026.sgm: of the Mission.<LB>Las Flores or San Pedro, about seven miles north and now on the Coast Highway, is mentioned in the same report as an <HI REND="italics">estancia</HI>
026.sgm:<LB><P>The valley is narrow, but extends back for several miles, with little timber.  On the south side is a small stream of running water, on which are a few trees. Ascending the steep and high hills that overlook it, we pushed on to Santa Margarita, owned by Don P&iacute;o Pico.  In the rainy season this valley has a broad stream; no water now, at the crossing.  Water can be had anywhere by digging a few feet.  Hence, in three miles, we came to the Mission of San Luis Rey at Sunset. Here we had to part with the jovial Padre; always cheerful, save when he touched one tender theme, the matter of the price of some sixty head of cattle, tithes paid for his support, but which in an evil moment, he had loaned to Don Juan Ramirez, as whose property they were attached by a relentless creditor.  Rather than risk a lawsuit, the Padre consented to take half.  He may have forgiven this, but has not forgot.  His strain, indeed, has something doleful when he treats of the wrong.  A simple, sincere, pious Padre; his parishioners of San Juan seem to love him, and those of San Luis greeted him with a warm welcome.</p><P>All are on tiptoe for the <HI REND="italics">Fiesta</HI>
026.sgm:. Manuelito had arrived. The church put in beautiful order; the courtyard within the mission buildings swept clean for the bullfight; one bear already lassoed; and a vow had been made to bring another for the combat.  In a word, the rejoicing at the shrine on this occasion was to be worthy of the Mission in its palmiest days.  Resisting invitations to stay, whether at the Mission or at Col. Tibbetts', we went on to Guajomito. Don Juan had promised to stay a night with its proprietor, Col. Cave J. Coutts.</p><P>Do&ntilde;a Ysidora anticipated much amusement at the feast, or rather at her own house, where she was to have a ball, etc.  Many young ladies were to come from San Diego, principally her own relatives. Learning that Emily was to be down on the steamer of Saturday, she invited me to bring her out; which I promised to do, if possible. Betimes we were off next morning; passed Buenavista, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:another long gallop brought us to Encinitos.  Old Don Andres Ybarra came out and embraced me; presented a fine watermelon and three large bunches of grapes, the more delicious, for we were thirsty.  The grapes are perfectly ripe (August 23rd).  It is a great piece of good fortune to have them ripe for the feast.  We were now joined by Col. John J. Warner; soon at San Dieguito; thence to Soledad, where we concluded to rest awhile.  Had a watermelon. This is the residence of Don Bonifacio Lopez.  The good offices of Se&ntilde;or Abila--and my evident necessities--procured me an exchange of horses.</p><P>Some distance from False Bay, the horses jumped from the road.  Coming up I found a large rattlesnake coiled in the sand.  Drawing his "Damascus blade" Don Juan dismounted, stirring the Sand near with its blade, then suddenly changing position and striking the enemy twice on the head till it was harmless.  Then passing the sword through its neck, he held it up for our observation of the trophy.  It was about four feet in length.  "Here," said he, "is the snake <HI REND="italics">que mat&oacute; la vieja</HI>
026.sgm:," referring to the lamented death of Mrs. Fischer, who was supposed to have been struck, about this place, by a rattlesnake; her little girl said she saw the snake. From the nature of the wounds, I suppose she had wounded her ankle against the cactus. Don Santiago Rios pulled off the eleven rattles; Don Juan fastened them in the band of his hat; we proposed this should be his coat of arms.  We soon drew rein at Rose's in the City of San Diego.  I stopped here; the rest quartered themselves among their Californian acquaintances.</p><P>September 2: I arrived at San Diego on the 23d.  I expected Emily to arrive on the next day by the steamer; I was disappointed; on the next steamer she arrived.  From Los Angeles to San Pedro--25 miles--her conveyance was the waggon of the fisherman who supplies the Los Angeles market. From New Town to Old Town the ride was comfortable enough in an open carriage.  She lived for some time in Calhoun Co., Ill.; has travelled a good deal in Western Missouri (and so have I); has crossed the Isthmus before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:case, involving some $20,000.  The District Court had then set down the case for trial at the next term.  When I told this to the Rev. Father and explained the reason for it, he exclaimed, " <HI REND="italics">I am sorry</HI>
026.sgm:, it may have a bad effect for the Church."</p><P>I am afraid Don Jos&eacute;'s piety or liberality depended on the result of this suit.  I hope not.  I shall be sorry if the Church cannot be built, nevertheless, Don Abel ought to have a fair trial, Church or no Church.  Who knows, however, but that these two millionaires, both tottering over the brink of the grave, will fight over this sum till they sink beneath the turf and leave the controversy to their heirs! I know Father Raho well, he is a learned and pious priest, an excellent companion, and if he lives a few years must contribute much to the regeneration of this section of California.</p><P>Quail-shooting is a favorite sport here, the ground simply alive with them in some parts of the county.  Wiley killed 7 deer yesterday at the Cajon rancho, 18 miles from here.</p><P>Sept. 18th: While the rain imprisoned us this afternoon, the Catholic bells rang merrily.  Emily thought the Bishop had come; Dr. Hammond, who had just called in, thought it was for the sunset.  I supposed it was for a baptism, judging from the tone of the bells.  Going to supper, I was informed casually that a child was dead and had been buried, a son of Don Bonifacio Lopez.   He had been going to school at San Diego.  The Catholic bells meant to tell their hearers that there was another angel in Heaven.  They ring this lively note of joy, rather than of grief, when the young and innocent are withdrawn from the snares and dangers of this bad world.  I like this custom of the native Californians, the merry peal of the bell, the beautiful trappings of the little cold form, the gay flags that flaunt in the breeze, as the procession moves, and even the music of guitar or violin that guides the step as they march to the grave.  Still, it is easier to be pleased with this custom of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:others and to like it in the abstract, than to adopt it when Death enters within our own household, for we have been educated in a more solemn, if not a more consolatory practice.</p><P>Once about dusk I left San Diego in a steamer for Los Angeles.  The time wore pleasantly with me till midnight among agreeable companions, and to this day the Se&ntilde;orita Reyes Estudillo smiles when she recalls the incidents.  I landed at San Pedro in the highest spirits, at break of day, only to meet a messenger who rode all night to hasten my return, lest I should not see alive a mother, and a babe that had been born to me in the very hour I had put my foot on the steamer a hundred miles from the chamber of sickness. I could not <HI REND="italics">rejoice</HI>
026.sgm: that a tiny form lay there cold as marble.  My own hands bore it into the Church, my own hands laid it in holy ground.  A few friends attended.  They could not feel, indeed, that a loss had befallen me like that of one older, still, all was solemn, and I felt so.  See the contrast.  The next day a valued Californian friend rode up to me in the street, with a smile upon his countenance, and taking my hand, exclaimed,</p><P>"Now, friend, you have an <HI REND="italics">angelito</HI>
026.sgm: in Heaven!"</p><P>And I smiled with him, for it was a Truth he told.</p><P>The Government graveyard here is an enclosure--so called--where lie the remains of Capt. Ben Moore, Lt. Thos. Hammond, and others who were killed in the Battle of San Pascual on the 6th day of December, 1846.<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: Capt. Johnson, who also fell, was buried here, but his body has been removed, I believe to be sent to his relatives.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:first Sunday after Emily's arrival we visited this and the Catholic graveyard near at hand.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">In 1919 the State of California accepted from W. G. Henshaw and E. Fletcher one acre of ground in the San Pasqual Valley, a few miles southeast of Escondido, believed to be the center of the conflict on Dec. 6, 1846, between the Americans under Gen. S. W. Kearny and the Californians commanded by Capt. Andr&eacute;s Pico, the fight extending to the following day.  The American casualties at San Pasqual are thought to have been 18 killed and 15 wounded. The Californians claimed to have none killed or seriously wounded.  The American dead were buried on the field and the bodies remained there for several years.  The remains of Capt. Moore and Lt. Hammond were then removed to Old San Diego.  Some years later the remaining dead were placed in a single coffin and also interred at Old Town. About 1885, all the bodies in the plot there were removed to the post cemetery at Fort Rosecrans, Point Loma; the two officers were buried under stones bearing their names only; the rest were placed in a single grave marked "16 U. S. Soldiers." No date and no names were placed on this spot. On July 30, 1922, the Native Sons and Daughters of San Diego placed a granite boulder from the battlefield on the latter grave, with a bronze tablet bearing the names of those who fell at San Pasqual.--Editor.</NOTE>
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026.sgm:house; the next, that of the Pico family, about 1824; the next in 1827, of Don Juan Bandini, as it now stands. Then came the mansion near by of the Estudillo family.</p><P>Mr. Chisholm offers to take us in his carriage to San Bernardino for $85, a distance of 110 miles.  A pretty round sum!</p><P>Today I requested the <HI REND="italics">Padrecito</HI>
026.sgm: to give me a list of the deaths in San Diego since January, 1850.  He said,</p><P>"I have charge of the parochial books, it is true, but this is <HI REND="italics">una materia de la Iglesia</HI>
026.sgm:, and you must write first to the <HI REND="italics">Padre</HI>
026.sgm: at San Juan (70 miles) or to the <HI REND="italics">Vicario</HI>
026.sgm: (210 miles).  You are going to write a history, are you not?"</p><P>"No, Se&ntilde;or.  I take much interest in everything that relates to the country I live in, and merely wished to have correct information on some matters I deemed important." With a pleasant <HI REND="italics">Adios</HI>
026.sgm: we parted.</p><P>An Irish soldier I often see in town, and who makes it a point always to give me the military salute, in the course of conversation to-day said to me,</p><P>"Ha, Judge, I want a bit of your advice, for ye're not one of these <HI REND="italics">Johnny-come-latelys</HI>
026.sgm:!"</p><P>At the table, Mrs. V. said,</p><P>"Wal, they all come a-serenading arter the ball were over, and they played near on to day.  First they come along, playing on the strings of the fiddles, without ary a bow--"</p><P>Said Charley, across the table, "They were playing the guitar."</p><P>"Wal, maybe they was--"</p><P>To-day we chartered Magee's spring-wagon and went on a pic-nic to the Playa.  Capt. Dublois rode Reiner's famous mule with the strong neck.  Judge Kurtz politely loaned me his pet pony.  We went aboard the schooner <HI REND="italics">Humboldt</HI>
026.sgm:, a beautiful Baltimore-built craft that has been lying in these waters since last November.  It is the prettiest thing that I have seen in many a day.  Has not somebody said that, next to a woman, a ship in full sail is the most beautiful object in nature or art?</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>A point immediately opposite Ballast Point was almost black with the bird which Capt. D. called shag.  He said that the mussels once gathered so thick on his schooner <HI REND="italics">Eagle</HI>
026.sgm: when she was detained here, that on taking her into dock at San Francisco, there must have been more than a dozen cart-loads upon her.  Capt. D. is a genuine Yankee. He was a long time whaling in the northern seas.</p><P>Campbell is a Scotchman.  He has been in both the English and American military services.   He came here with Gen. Riley, made a great deal of money, but lost it in speculations, and now his pockets are empty.  He now lives under some disadvantages upon the beach.  He has a good house, however.  His drinking water he hauls five miles, from a well in the river-bed near Old Town.  One other family lives here, like him supplied with water, meat, everything from Old Town.  Campbell is the counterpart of his wife, frank, kind, hospitable.</p><P>There is a windmill about a mile from Old Town, in sight.  It was built by a German named Gatter, is now owned by Fischer and Findersen, Germans.  It can turn out eight barrels of flour per day, but there is not sufficient wheat grown in the county to keep it going.  They import wheat from San Francisco.</p><P><HI REND="italics">A returning Californian</HI>
026.sgm:. Happening in at Mr. Gitchell's, old Mr. Palmer came in to make a final settlement of his liabilities; these turned out to be in all the sum of $24, part to a lawyer, part to a doctor.  Pretty good, after a three years' residence.  He will leave on the next boat to see his family at Savannah, Georgia.  He is a shipwright by trade, a Scotchman by birth, has been, I believe, in the U. S. Naval Service.  He owns nine houses, a farm, and several negroes in Georgia; these furnish the support of his family, while he has been laboring alone, almost like a slave, away off here.  He must be much over 50 years of age.  Such is California!</p><P>He is going to see his family.  There are many chances that he may never return.  He does not speak of bringing them here, and it were well not to do so yet, situated as they are and as his property here is.  Yet, who knows if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:they would not be happier together on the singularly beautiful spot which the sailor-father has chosen for his home. We passed Over it some days since, when we went to bathe in the bay.  It is a tract of 280 acres fronting on the broad sea upon one side, and upon the other on the quiet waters of False Bay. A low, level tract of rather sandy soil, which you reach by crossing the lofty range of hills that runs from Point Loma nearly to the City.  There is a small house upon it.  It is the chosen resort of pleasure-parties, famous for pic-nics.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Rose's Rancho</HI>
026.sgm:. The rancho of Mr. Lewis Rose contains 1920 acres, lying along a creek that, in the rainy season, runs into False Bay.  He bought it in separate quarter sections at the public sales of the City lands, paying high in order to secure a large tract in a compact body.</p><P>At the foot of a lofty hill, on the side of the main road, as you emerge from the valley out upon False Bay, Mr. Rose has bored 170 feet for an artesian well; the work is now suspended.  In boring they passed through four different strata of stone coal, too thin, however, to pay for working.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Hay</HI>
026.sgm:. It is estimated that 100 tons have been sold here, cut in this county, the present season, about 60 tons at $45; a large portion is of wild oat, most of it cut from 20 to 30 miles from the City.  I know some to have been brought from near San Luis Rey Mission at $35 per ton.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Crops</HI>
026.sgm:. Being at the Playa to-day, Capt. Bogart, I found, had just landed from the schooner <HI REND="italics">Harrison</HI>
026.sgm: some 10,000 lbs. of wheat and the same quantity of barley to be sown on the island opposite.  The wheat was raised in California from seed brought last year from Chili.  He harvested last year at the same place 30 lbs. to the acre from 60 lbs. sown to the acre.  His wheat and barley of last year are prime; from the wheat he has already had 200 barrels of flour made.  He has a granary so constructed as to be impregnable to rats and squirrels.  The soil on the island is sandy and light, but free from <HI REND="italics">salitre</HI>
026.sgm: or alkali. I called his attention to the prevalent idea that the immediate coast was not good for wheat.  He said he did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:believe in the idea concerning the effect of fogs, and appealed to Chili, which was remarkable for its dense fogs and where " <HI REND="italics">rust</HI>
026.sgm: " was unheard of.</p><P><HI REND="italics">The Tannery</HI>
026.sgm:. This is of Mr. Lewis Rose, the only one in the county.  It is upon his rancho about six miles on the Los Angeles road.  There are 20 bark vats, six lime and water vats, two cisterns containing 500 gallons each, a new bark mill, an adobe house for currying the leather, (each vat will contain from 80 to 100 sides), force pumps, and everything else for a complete establishment.  He now makes 3500 sides a year, and 1000 skins of deer, goat, sheep, seal, and sea-lion.  Many goat-skins have been brought from some island, where goats abound, about 70 miles distant, off the coast of Lower California.  Seal are abundant off our own coast.  Last year he sold $8000 worth of leather at San Francisco; it was much praised there. Oak bark is obtained ten miles from the tannery in abundance; it costs from $12 to $15 per ton, delivered.  He employs one head tanner at $100 per month; two assistants, at $35 each; and three laborers, at $10 each; boarding them. Indian laborers, $8, Mexicans, $10, both classes easily got here.  Hides easily obtained to keep tannery always in operation; trades for them a good deal, with shoes, saddles, and <HI REND="italics">botas</HI>
026.sgm: made here of his leather.  To-day I found him cutting out the soles and uppers, "having little else to do" as he said.  The uppers are of deer skin.  These are manufactured by a Mexican shoemaker according to Mexican style.  They do well in dry weather.  Sides at San Francisco bring from $5 to $8.  Deerskins, goat, etc., bear the standing price of $3 apiece.  He commenced this establishment in 1853.  This tannery is only one feature of Rose's rancho.</p><P>As things now stand upon it, he thinks every acre has cost him $8; to shew his appreciation of it, he says that he would accept an offer of $20,000 per acre, including the tannery, garden, and other improvements.  The garden is of four acres, with a rock fence five feet high; cost of fence $325 cash, boarding of two men six months, besides the use of his teams to haul the rocks, perhaps a total of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:.  Friend Rose appears to think I had some object, so he said, in talking with him about his rancho--suspects I am going to "write a book."  As I was in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:street this afternoon buying peaches from an Indian <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
026.sgm: that had just arrived, from San Ysabel, he called me to him in his store, saying that he had forgotten to mention that the rancho would be a great place for a dairy.  Milk could be delivered from there to the future City at 6 o'clock in the morning.  Having learned that money can be borrowed in San Francisco at low interest, he wishes to borrow $20,000 for two years.  Within that time, he calculates, he can pay it up with leather.  I told him I had made him out worth $14,000,000.  He declined rating his 2900 lots so high, but thought they might eventually be worth something, adding that he had a large number beside these scattered over the vicinity.  He said he was now 48 years old.</p><P>September 18th:  <HI REND="italics">Gardening</HI>
026.sgm:. To-day we visited the gardens of Mr. Geo. Lyons and of Mr. Joseph Reiner, the worthy Sheriff. These are situated in front of the City on the right bank of the river, a few yards from its bed, the bank only a few feet above it.  With all the labor and expenditure that have been bestowed upon them, they are at the mercy of the uncertain river, which may come down this winter and sweep everything away.  It gave an admonition of this last season, the water washing against the northeast side of Mr. Lyons' with considerable force, so as to bend over a large portion of it; this was afterwards straightened up. Lyons has an acre and a half, Reiner 2 1/3 acres.  The former waters from five wells, the latter has six; watering is done by hand.  In Reiner's everything had been watered last night and this morning by the single Indian servant. The wells are about six feet in depth, barrels being sunk at the bottom.  The water is clear, sweet, and abundant.  A live fence of willow encloses Mr. Lyons' giving ample foliage.  Mr. Reiner's is chiefly of sycamore and the poles have not taken root as in the other garden.  Lyons has put on a great deal of manure from the stables and corrals. To the eye the soil has the appearance of pure sand, nevertheless it is productive.  Reiner's expense has been $1500 exclusive of the price of the lot; he sells very little from it. For ditching, setting poles for the fence, etc., Lyons expended <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:against fears of the "dark," if he have them. We have never said anything with the design of scaring him.  I well remember how I was wont to run, if the dim twilight caught me passing Potter's Field and the burying-ground of an African church, far out beyond the built-up street, on my return from bathing in the Spring Gardens, Baltimore. Nor did I fail to cast back over my shoulder uneasy looks at the high posts of the fences as they were reflected on the waving cattails of the adjacent swamp, looking for all the world like so many tall spectres in chase of me. Nor for a pretty sum would I give up the giants and ghosts and kindred objects of terror, the studies of early youth.</p><P>September 23d: Made the acquaintance of Henry Miller, an artist travelling over the State taking views of the Cities, Missions, etc., intends to paint them on a large scale, to present a complete panorama of California to be exhibited in the Eastern States and Europe.  He also speaks of publishing an album to contain probably 200 engravings of scenery in California, with short explanatory notes.  He says the citizens of Los Angeles appeared to take no interest in having a view of their City.  He spoke of the want of curiosity in the passersby at San Bernardino when he stood in the street more than an hour, sketching the mansion of Amasa Lyman.  I told him the Mormons were probably merely acting upon what I heard them often appeal to as the eleventh commandment, <HI REND="italics">Mind your own business</HI>
026.sgm:!</p><P>Mr. Miller travels alone; when he camps out at night, he invariably places a hair rope around his camp in a circle for fear of snakes; he says this was done by Fr&eacute;mont in his travels.  The Indians do the same in Sonora.  The chaparral-cock, a bird common in this neighborhood, runs on the ground as fast as a race horse.  When it sees a rattlesnake, it will gather pieces of cactus and put them around the snake, in such manner that escape is impossible. I have been told that the name commonly applied to this bird by the Indians here--CHURUA--originated with them, but Don Juan Bandini says the name is common throughout Mexico; says it is provincial.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>For one view of San Diego, Mr. Miller received the beggarly sum of $10.  An artist here cannot make enough to pay his bill at the hotel for four days.  This, too, in a city whose people all look upon it as the grand terminus of the Pacific Railroad-where, within five years, they are to realize another El Dorado by the sale of their lots!</p><P>The seal of the District Court was designed by Wn. H. Leighton, the other seals by ----- Poole.</p><P>Sunday: The Jewish Sabbath yesterday was kept by only one person, Mr. L. A. F.  On this Christian Sabbath, all goes on as usual through the rest of the week, one store alone being closed, that of Mr. Morse; he and his good lady are from New England.  No mechanic, however, is at work. There may be a <HI REND="italics">baile</HI>
026.sgm: to-night.  There is no Catholic service except prayers in the Estudillo house.  The priest resides at San Juan Capistrano. Now that John Phoenix is away in the wilds of Oregon, with his inspiring humor, the worthy, eccentric old Episcopal Chaplain of the military post might venture back for the edification of his ancient hearers at the Courthouse. He once obtained quite a respectable subscription to build a Church.</p><P>Sept. 30th: This is the Jewish New Year.  Their Stores are all closed.  Off for a long walk to Lorenzo Soto's garden. Don Juan Bandini says the influenza which prevails on this coast is only troublesome in the month of December. Then great care must be taken.  He has known this coast since 1819, it prevailed then as much as now.  It is not to be attributed to a change in the mode of life of the people, as some have wished to suppose.</p><P>Steamer day!  Twenty days without news, all complaining of dullness, but now animated with a new life. The town is immersed in politics.  "Buck and Beck" have carried everything before them.  The mails are off.  I have had time only to send a verbal message to my sister Louisa, and she is to be married; she only waits for the coming of Father Raho from Santa Barbara.  A passenger informs me that he came down on this steamer.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>This morning we visited the Presidio, or rather its ruins. They are of considerable extent on the point of the high hill, as you turn from the City into the valley of the mission.  The river runs close at the foot and may be seen for some distance in its winding course toward the Mission, whose white buildings, now a military post, are distinctly visible.  They are six miles up the valley. From the highest point, looking in the direction of the City through the ruins, the little paling enclosures shew the ancient graveyard, a tall date-tree raises its beautiful foliage below, attended by a smaller yet graceful companion.  A little further a few Indian huts on one side and the blacksmith shops and dwelling of the blacksmith on the other.  This is the picture round the spot first consecrated to Religion in California.</p><P>Took Dr. Hammond to see a poor fellow I found sick at the pear-orchard of Soto.  The Dr. administered to him the same as if he had been arrayed in gold-cloth or silk. He is one of the soldiers sent to the adjacent frontier under Don Francisco Ferrer.  They are generally picked up in Mexico among the class called <HI REND="italics">leperos</HI>
026.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">padrecito</HI>
026.sgm: says that the word <HI REND="italics">Cholo is</HI>
026.sgm: a corruption of <HI REND="italics">Chulu</HI>
026.sgm:, used in Andalusia to designate the same class; it is not employed in any part of Mexico.  The Californians seem to employ it almost entirely to those who come from Guadalaxara, and who do not happen here to make money or acquire property!  Poor fellows, they often realize that "words are things," without perhaps having heard of the maxim or of its author. The <HI REND="italics">Cholo</HI>
026.sgm: died.</p><P>Don Francisco Ferrer brought about 60 soldiers with him to Santo Tomas; during the past few months most of them deserted.  Ferrer was displaced by Don Jos&eacute; Castro who discharged the rest, being of opinion that the frontier people of Lower California can be governed or can govern themselves, without soldiers.  The fact is the Mexican Government does not send money to pay them even the pittance of 25 cents per day, a private's pay, and they have had to get their <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
026.sgm: (rations) by force or by beggary among the people, to whom they had in fine become, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:if not a nuisance, at least a heavy burden, as Se&ntilde;or Ferrer told me himself when he was here on his return to Mexico.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Don Vincente Guerrero</HI>
026.sgm:.  There never was any harm in Vincente, or Vincentillo as the Californians call him on account of his size.  Many years ago he came from Acapulco, and made himself popular enough to be elected <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
026.sgm: of Los Angeles.  In these latter days of American rule, and indeed before, he has flourished at the head of a "family grocery" much frequented by Indians and a certain class of Sonoranians.  In the end he acquired a fine property.  The great riot after the death of Antonio Ruis drove him away from Los Angeles, a Voluntary exile.  While some called him a fool for having anything to do with the affair, most men deemed him a greater fool for running off in this manner.  Generally his course was regretted, public feeling against the rioters having subsided very soon after the occurrences.</p><P>An Indian did invent a story for a while unfavorable to the patriotism of Vincentillo, to the effect that he and two companions were busy in the mountains of Pala, organizing the Indians for an insurrection, offering them $2000 and 500 head of cattle for their assistance.  Not a word of truth in it, as all knew who were acquainted with those Indians and the character of their chief Manuelito. It was a remarkable specimen of the Indian's inventive powers in an emergency, (he was himself in custody at the time for some offense).  Upon my arrival here Don Juan Bandini informed me that Vincente had come to him with tears in his eyes, lamenting the necessity that had compelled him to leave his children and property.  He was now in Lower California, domesticated with an old friend. I had previously issued a warrant for his arrest, based on the depositions taken before me.  But the grand jury had ignored a bill against Carriaga, the leader of the riot after the death of Ruis, and a petit jury had acquitted another, the only one tried.  I requested Don Juan to write to Vincente informing him of these facts, and of my desire that he should return home at once, without any apprehension.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Don Juan so promised.  But Vincente was too timid; he left for Acapulco!</p><P>I had hoped differently, and that he would return to live the quiet citizen he was before these days of Vigilance Committees.  In fact I shall miss him from Los Angeles. It puts one in a good humor to meet him in the street, with his black, smiling eye, and he never fails to stop and offer the hand.  He was one of my first acquaintances of 1850, kindly in disposition and urbane in manners.</p><P>Oct. 2d :  <HI REND="italics">Public Meetings</HI>
026.sgm:.  A Democratic meeting one night, a Know Nothing afterward, escaped my memory, and so I failed to be present.  And last night was held the annual meeting of the "San Diego and Gila Railroad Company." I regret that I had not an opportunity of attending it. Judge O. S. Witherby tells me that he was glad to learn one thing, that the company owes only $200.  This, after having made a costly survey of a railroad route from San Diego to Carizo Creek, on the edge of the desert.  The existence of this company, and such a survey, speak well for the public spirit of the leading citizens.  A small town, very, but the people have large hearts.</p><P>Horse-stealing is a common offense in this District, causing a heavy drain upon its inhabitants every year.  I had a fine horse stolen last February, which I prized very much for his gentleness; the boy used to be carried on him every morning.  Hearing of him about a month after as being in the hands of the authorities at Santo Tomas, I immediately sent a power of attorney to receive him.  Meanwhile at San Diego I met with Don Juan Mendoza, Judge of the First Instance, on his way to Los Angeles.</p><P>"Se&ntilde;or," said he emphatically, " <HI REND="italics">no hay cuidado</HI>
026.sgm:, you shall have your horse the moment I return!"</p><P>"But, Don Juan, there must be some expenses.  Let me pay them."</p><P>"Oh, no, not a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
026.sgm:!"</p><P>This looked all fair; in truth, the horse would not have brought thirty dollars in the market, but Chauncey was always inquiring for him, and I desired particularly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:to see his delight when Charley should come back to the stable.</p><P>Having gone by different roads, Don Juan and I met at Los Angeles in April.  The Judge of the District, of course, was very polite to the Judge of the First Instance. Presently it came to be time for him of Mexico to depart. Letters To Don Francisco Ferrer, the <HI REND="italics">Comandante</HI>
026.sgm:, had been delivered to him, and one afternoon we exchanged the <HI REND="italics">Adios</HI>
026.sgm:. I was surprised to meet him next day, upon his horse, making some trade at a store.</p><P>"You did not leave, Don Juan?"</p><P>"I go to-morrow."</p><P>"Then <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
026.sgm:, Don Juan."</p><P>"Ha <HI REND="italics">Se&ntilde;or</HI>
026.sgm:, he said, riding after me a few steps, "my wife requested me to bring her certain articles, and I find myself short of funds, staying so long.  Oblige me by the loan of the matter of twenty dollars."</p><P>This was a stunner.  A sort of melancholy presentiment flashed across my mind.  But Judge could not refuse Judge; moreover, he was a "distinguished stranger."  For a moment I hesitated.  I had no money; pockets empty.  <HI REND="italics">No importa</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>"Where can I see you, Don Juan?  I will go and get you the sum."</p><P>"I will wait here, <HI REND="italics">Se&ntilde;or</HI>
026.sgm:."</p><P>From a friend hard by I borrowed the sum and quietly slipped it into his hand, and there it still remains.  It was the first day of May, it should have been of April.  I have seen neither money nor horse.  Within a few days my worthy attorney, Juan Canales, came home discomfited, having had a quarrel with a young Mexican lieutenant who claimed to have bought the horse for eighty dollars, and besides had two objections to giving him up, first, that the document I sent was not "judicial" according to him, and secondly, that his wife had rode him off to the salt works of San Quentin on a visit.  In August Don Francisco Ferrer wrote me that he had just been advised of the treatment I had received.  He had long since banished Onales, the thief, from Lower California, not as a thief but as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:loafer; my horse should immediately be returned to Don Juan Bandini.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Viva</HI>
026.sgm:!" cried I.</p><P>The other day I met the excellent <HI REND="italics">Comandante</HI>
026.sgm:, out of Office, and on his pilgrimage to Mexico.  Charley was now in the possession of Mr. George Ryason, another piece of good news.  Emily laughs at me for lending the money; Chauncey is ever inquiring; I confess I am heartily tired of the delay, with the constant opportunities they have had to gratify me.</p><P>This is all the trouble I now have to recount.  Something of the kind happens every day in the year to somebody else here, and people Often talk savagely.  I have never yet said I would hang the rascal Onales, which shows that I am resigned and patient rather than otherwise.  I did say once that I would "publish" the tricky Mendoza, but the laugh would have been against me; he was only giving me another example of the Mexican way to "raise the wind."</p><P>At Guajomito Col. C. J. Coutts has about 400 vines. The cuttings planted two years ago last February bore their first grapes this summer.  Mr. Wm. Wolfskill of Los Angeles, long experienced in this culture, advised him to cut off the grapes on their first formation and let none come to maturity this year.  The vines are in black, heavy soil, a sort of bluish-white clay below.  The whole of this has been a <HI REND="italics">cienega</HI>
026.sgm: or swamp.  The water is within two feet of the surface.</p><P>This rancho is a model for landholders through this whole portion of the State, for the improvements it exhibits.  In 1851, it was occupied by an old Indian and was merely a little swamp.  The word Guajome is Indian and means frog-pond,--how inappropriate in its present splendid condition!</p><P>The vine cultivated at the missions of California was the same as that of the Island of Madeira, so Maj. Ringgold says.  Gen. M. G. Vallejo, says that he was told by his father, Don Ignacio Vallejo, that Fr. Junipero Serra brought with him the first vines, planted them at San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Diego; cuttings of these were planted at the Mission of San Gabriel, with most fruitful results.</p><P>Invited to a ball to be given by the two gentlemen lately admitted to the bar.  D. comes and offers to take us to San Bernardino for $60 in a comfortable spring waggon; he is going there for <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
026.sgm:.  Can't decide till the steamer comes on Tuesday next.  Lt. Kellogg kindly offers to send his ambulance to take us to New Town, but Mr. Reiner had already offered his horse and buggy.</p><P>Oct. 3d: The ball was held in one of the large rooms of the massive frame building erected by Don Juan Bandini in 1850, at a cost of $25,000, in flush times.  The prospect of customers soon vanished.  The building was completed but never finished.  It is now bleak and comparatively useless.  This bad speculation, it is believed, greatly impaired his fortune.  (This hotel stood on a lot near the residence of George A. Pendleton and commanded a beautiful view of the bay and surrounding country and far into Lower California.  Long since every vestige of it was gone.  It bore the name of the Gila House.  B. H., 1874).</p><P>The waltz was introduced into California by Don Juan Bandini, with considerable opposition at first by the good friars.</p><P>At 1 A.M. Emily, Chauncey, and I left the ballroom and its gay and elegant company of forty ladies and as many gentlemen.  Emily could not dance, for fear of exciting her cough; I therefore contented myself to enjoy the conversation of friends, as opportunity offered.   She was delighted with the tender attention offered her by the ladies. Chata, Victoria, Estephanita, Maggie--what shall their lot in life be?  Don Juan Bandini, at the age of 56, competed to advantage, in ease and vivacity, with the best dancer among the youth.  Do&ntilde;a Victoria Estudillo, a month younger than Don Juan, did not dance at all.  I heard general regret expressed for the absence of her amiable daughter, the Se&ntilde;orita Reyes.  Alas, too, the jovial Reiner was away.</p><P>This was the ball of the young lawyers, Mr. Nichols, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:the preacher, and Dr. E. Knight.  They called on me some days since and informed me that they sought admission to the bar.  They talked frankly, and I may have momentarily doubted if either had read law assiduously.  I explained to them that a committee would have to examine them and report to the Court.  In California style, would the committee merely exact an estimate of the cost of a <HI REND="italics">baile</HI>
026.sgm:, I wondered, or ascertain where the best brandy can be had?</p><P>I am the only lawyer I have ever heard acknowledge but that his examination was very rigid.  When admitted at Baltimore by Judges Archer and Purviance, I had to answer six questions, one of which was, What is your age? I was then just at 24, and had studied closely three years; with what joy I paid my fee of $3 to the Clerk, and hastened to the hall to settle with the old apple-woman, from time immemorial entitled to her perquisite of a couple of dollars!  Still I remember her warm wishes for my success, as the money dropped jingling into her side pocket.  Dear old apple-woman! In Missouri Judge Tompkins of the Supreme Court put to me a single question, while my friend, Mr. Addison Rees, was well tested by the stern old Judge.  I had not contradicted him, and especially not interrupted him, while he descanted on his Whig policy and criticized the politicians of the day.</p><P>Here is, literally, the speech of Dr. E. when they applied for admission:</p><P>"May it please the Court, there seems to be a penchant now for admission to the bar.  I know not whether it is because of the <HI REND="italics">per</HI>
026.sgm: -spective profits of the law, or a desire for its mythical honors.  One of these gentlemen informs me that he has studied the laws of God, having been a portion of his life a preacher of the Gospel; the other being a physician, is read, I presume, in the laws of Nature. Their studies in the statutes and common law" etc. etc.</p><P>This speech was no joke; the committee reported favorably concerning them.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>At the ball Emily wore in her black hair simply a piece of sea-grass, white and delicate, a handsome thing.</p><P>The wild goose began to be heard high up in the air yesterday.</p><P>Oct. 6: The story current concerning San Luis Rey, and vouched for by Don Leandro Serrano, formerly mayordomo, is that when Fr. Antonio Peyri left for Mexico, about the time of secularization, he shipped from the port of San Diego ten kegs of silver dollars.  Don Leandro brought the precious freight to the port from the Mission, passing it off as <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
026.sgm:, and kept the secret until the good <HI REND="italics">Padre</HI>
026.sgm: was off safely, and revealed it then only to friends.  Don Juan Forster thinks the whole amount could not have exceeded sixteen thousand dollars.  Father Antonio Peyri was of robust form, Ever cheerful in his ways.  He was held in affectionate regard by both whites and Indians. He left his children without their knowledge.  He was soon missed and five hundred of them came to San Diego on horseback to reclaim him.   The Vessel was then under weigh, going down the Bay.  He blessed them from the deck, amidst their tears and lamentations.  Some threw themselves into the water, to follow him.  He took four aboard, these were educated at Rome, and one afterward was ordained a priest.</p><P>Pala had a fine vineyard, and olive and peach orchards. Father Peyri often Visited it to look after operations there. In the fruit season, after the day's labor, each Indian received every evening his little basket of peaches.   The neighboring tract of Pauma was used for grazing the work oxen.  At Santa Margarita, also, the Mission had a good vineyard.  At San Luis Rey, the garden, now gone to ruin, was always beautiful.</p><P>Tem&eacute;cula and San Jacinto were occupied with cattle only.  Their mayordomo was Manuel German, and afterward Blas Aguilar.  In one year Lorenzo Soto took 20,000 hides from San Jacinto plain.  A good many Indians congregated at Pala and Las Flores, both of which places had chapels, in addition to large granaries and other buildings.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:For these facts I am indebted to Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Serrano, son of Don Leandro, who spent much of his time with his father at Pala and Temescal.</p><P>Blas Aguilar was born in 1811 at the old Presidio of San Diego. His father was Rosario, a corporal there. In 1825 when Echeandia arrived, Blas Aguilar was with his father at San Luis Rey.  He was mayordomo of Tem&eacute;cula in 1834.  He then went to the Rancho San Jos&eacute; of Don Ignacio Palomares, where he remained until 1843.</p><P>Nat Vise's house in San Diego is the old residence of Don Juan Rodriguez.  In 1838-39 Alcalde Estudillo here kept his office, the <HI REND="italics">Juzgado</HI>
026.sgm:.  Adjoining our apartment in the Couts house is a room occupied as the County Clerk's office.  Our boarding-house was burned down.</p><P>The mansion of Don Juan Bandini and the Estudillo house nearby were commenced in 1827.  As late as 1821, there was no house on the bench that forms the present site of Old Town.  The Fitch House was built that year. Then the inhabitants all resided within the Presidio, having some gardens in the mission valley, around the mouth of it, and one other garden made by Captain Francisco Ruiz, comandante of the Presidio; this is the same known as the Soto garden.  Among the first houses built were the Fitch House, that of the Pico family, and the Commercialhouse (as now called).</p><P>(Note:  In the flood of 1861-2 the whole garden of Mr. George Lyons as well as Reiner's was carried away except the three large sycamore trees; these were carried off by the overflow of January, 1874. B. H.)</p><P>Oct. 8th: Chata left on the steamer for Los Angeles, to spend a month at Don Abel's.</p><P>Oct. 14th: Went to San Bernardino to hold Court.  I went and returned by the same road which, to the rancho of Guajomito, is described in the trip to San Diego.  Busily engaged up to 14th in the examination of Spanish and Mexican archives.  Copy many.  Intend to index the originals for the benefit of some future more industrious antiquarian.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:, cisterns, gardens, etc., attest the labors they performed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Leaving him to supervise the <HI REND="italics">rodeo</HI>
026.sgm: (he is a Judge of the Plains) we proceeded.  Two miles across the barren hills brought us to the river of San Luis Rey; very narrow, where we struck it, and indeed everywhere, having a dense growth of willow mixed with sycamore.  The bed entirely dry.  At Dennis Turney's, two miles further, nobody at home; no water to drink; do not know where he gets it. The river here hemmed in on both sides by high, rocky hills, destitute of vegetation almost wholly.  San Juan is a mile and a half further.  The house on the top of the hill; two Sonorian women and some boys here. Col. Coutts, I believe, claims the place.  We had previously found his horses along the bank of the river, picking up what they could find among the bushes, and a chance blade of grass on the hills.</p><P>Two miles further is Frank Steele's, the valley widening out here to perhaps half a mile; pretty good pasturage; a great many cattle scattered about.  Frank has a snug mustard house, partitioned into two rooms.  Not at home; we were sorry.  A small pool surrounded by tule; good water.  In the <HI REND="italics">confianza</HI>
026.sgm: of our friendship we "helped ourselves" to some <HI REND="italics">carne seco</HI>
026.sgm:, a few potatoes, and matches, for a meal on the road.  Two miles beyond, we left the valley near Montserrate, taking over the rocky hills; in about a mile and a half entering a grove of evergreen oaks; welcome sight.  Now evidently ascending, and in about the same distance, did ascend by a steep hill upon a long ridge, being now near the top of the highest foothills of Tem&eacute;cula mountain. A very rough, barren country surrounding us on all sides.</p><P>In two miles entered a pretty little valley, still some grazing, a few cattle there.  Crossing this, and turning a rocky point, camped at the spring under some large oak trees.  Took off the saddles; made a fire; heated the <HI REND="italics">carne seco</HI>
026.sgm:; and finished a good meal. Resumed our way; in about a mile commenced the descent of Tem&eacute;cula mountain. We went down the horse trail. The waggon road is a few yards to the left, and rather rough, but a good road could be made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>For a long time an object is in sight ahead; at length discovered to be a horseman; proved to be little Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Pico, called familiarly Picito.  He is going to Agua Mansa.  When he was a soldier, in former times, he had often been through this part of the country.  But he got bewildered, and was out all last night; he had forgotten this road, and supposed it a new one made by the industrious Mormons.  He lives at Santa Margarita.  I suspected him of being on an election tour for Fr&eacute;mont; the old man is much thought of at Agua Mansa.</p><P>Soon we descended to the head of the ca&ntilde;on; here there is a spring, a few trees; we eat our sardines and crackers.</p><P>After a long descent, came in view of the green fields of Agua Mansa; the course of the Santa Ana River was marked out, going far to the southwest, by the green trail, a sensible relief to the monotony of the high tableland just passed over.</p><P>Six miles further; we are at the Hotel of San Bernardino.  Sounds of music greet the ear.  Soon we distinguish "calling the figures."  <HI REND="italics">A ball</HI>
026.sgm:! For which my friend Gitchell would be ready, if he had travelled twice the distance that day.</p><P>It was a pleasure party from Los Angeles who had stopped over the night, on their way to San Bernardino mountain to catch trout.  It was John Rains and his youthful bride, Do&ntilde;a Merced, the eldest daughter of Col. Isaac Williams, "the rich heiress."  I believe they were married the day after her father was buried; he died since I left Los Angeles.  Our arrival by no means disparaged the jollity of the occasion.</p><P>The day clear and pleasant; night rather damp.</p><P>17th, 18th: Clear, beautiful weather.  Spent in inquiring into Mormon affairs; <HI REND="italics">the two parties</HI>
026.sgm:; crops; Gen. Rich; Amasa Lyman; Don Luis Robidoux; Q. J. Sparks; polygamy; prosperity of the people this year; their resources.</p><P>Stopping an hour or two at Mrs. Jackson's.  She is a Mormon lady of much sprightliness.  My attention was attracted to what seemed to me a poetical license, not allowable, in the Mormon hymn entitled "The Seer"; commencing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:"The Seer, the Seer, the Holy Seer," and sung with considerable effect, (particularly by a large congregation), to a well-known popular air.  The rhyme is attempted to be made by <HI REND="italics">mobs</HI>
026.sgm: in one line to <HI REND="italics">Gods</HI>
026.sgm: in the other; <HI REND="italics">mobs</HI>
026.sgm:, I contended, is bad rhyme.  She left the poetry, and continuing still very sweetly to play the melodeon, gave me with her voice a lively touch of the Mormon doctrine as to the Gods of the Spirit-World.</p><P>19th: Cloudy; considerable rain.  The pleasure party not yet returned.  It is 25 miles to the mill whither they have gone; a mill belonging to the estate of the bride's father. Don Luis Robidoux is under guard; two men politely escorting him wheresoever he may wish to go; fire upon Dr. St. Clair; the difficulty, on this subject, which party is to blame? 20th: Clear, pleasant day.  Held court; made an Order of Publication; naturalized one man; this the whole docket; adjourned till next term.  Grand affair to ride over 200 miles for!</p><P>21st: Weather as yesterday.  Left in the afternoon.  Spent the night at Agua Mansa, at Trujillo's. Hospitality. History of this New Mexican settlement?<ANCHOR ID="n4-3">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: Their land titles? Sheep supper, excellent lodgings; 6 miles from San Bernardino.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-3">See Chapter VII.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>22d: Clear, very cold morning. Julian Trujillo accompanied us a mile or two; soon on the road to Kline's.  Much bunch grass on this tableland; too little water; cattle very poor. Near the eight mile spring saw two young bears near the cattle.  A little further Gitchell had a shot within 15 feet (with revolver) at a wild goose that seemed rather reluctant to fly, as it let us ride that near and dismount; a miss; flew a short distance only.  A mile further, at the spring, after two shots, he killed one which we carried off for supper.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:An Indian camped at the spring; met four of the San Diego coal miners, on their return; reached Kline's at sunset; 45 miles.  Good supper.  Day clear; night clear and cold.  So much fatigued now and then today, that I dismounted, lying down in the road to relieve my limbs.</p><P>23d: Clear, pleasant weather.  A large number of horses at Oak Spring, just above the pass; considerable grass around it.    AS we descended to Montserrate, some 20 Indians, afoot and horseback, were hunting rabbits among the brush on the steep, rocky hills; they seemed to be greatly excited with the sport.  They were from Pala, which is not for from here.  Steele's premises deserted.  No more <HI REND="italics">carne seco</HI>
026.sgm:.  Stopping awhile to rest, a <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
026.sgm: rode up and told us he had remoVed farther down the valley.  At 3 1/2 P.M. reached Coutts'.  The Col. had gone to San Diego; the ladies Very agreeable; a glorious supper.</p><P>24th: Col. George Tibbetts lives four miles from here, near the Mission; we went over to see Col. Kenrick and Maj. Walter H. Harvey, Indian agent.  Tibbetts and Curry, from New Hampshire.  Politics.  Stayed for dinner, and to rest well.  Col. K. had just returned from a visit to Don Jos&eacute; Joaquin Ortega, who, it was supposed, could influence many votes among the Californians.  Tibbetts is married to a Californian lady.</p><P>We expected to go to San Diego that night, some 41 miles.  But at San Dieguito concluded to wait till daylight. No grass or water for our horses; tied them to the fence. Mint tea; it was excellent. Philip Crosthwaite was here, to burn lime; he resides at the rancho of Paguay. Pleasant family; Mrs. C., a Californian lady, daughter of Don Bonifacio Lopez, insisted that we should sleep within the house, having prepared a bed for us, instead of in our blankets under the porch, as we had intended. He delivers the lime at $3.00 per barrel, too cheap.  Day pleasant, night cold.</p><P>Nov. 4th : Election day.  Much noise, but the people more funny than quarrelsome.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<P>Nov. 5th: Arrival of the steamer.  Parting with friends.  <HI REND="italics">The last person</HI>
026.sgm: with whom I shook hands, just as the stage was in the act of leaving the hotel, is mentioned in the following brief article which reached us soon after our arrival at Los Angeles. He was killed before we reached our destination.  <HI REND="blockindent">DIED:  On Wednesday night, 5th inst., Ordinance Sergt. Richard Kerren, aged 41 years.</HI>
026.sgm:</p><P>The people at San Diego say I must not repeat the exact number of votes received by Buchanan and Fr&eacute;mont, in all, 110 in the city.  Better say Buchanan had 54 majority.  They do not wish it known that San Diego City, where the Pacific Railroad is to terminate, is so small a place.  Of Richard Kerren, I can say with many others, "We have spent many happy hours together."</p><P>Nov. 6th: At daylight found ourselves on the splendid <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
026.sgm:, quietly anchored in the bay of San Pedro.  Breakfast at 7 1/2 A.M.  Capt. Seely took us ashore.  Stage soon ready Off for Los Angeles.  A few cattle On the now barren plain, very poor.  Welcome sight! the first fence and the green trees on the approach to the City.  A cool, windy ride.  For a long distance, our boarding-house on the hill is in sight.  Again we meet dear relatives.  And Chauncey, in fine spirits, is now playing with his Cousin Mary. A kindly welcome from everybody.   Some, however, thought that "I seemed like a stranger, I had been so long away."</p><P>Earthquake July 10th, 1855, and another May 2d, 1856.</p><P>Grasshoppers destructive to young grain in Santa Barbara Co., ascribed to the dry season, favorable to them. On most of the ranchos of Southern California there is now but little pasturage, the ground very much parched, the springs all low.  The River of Santa Clara entirely dry at its mouth.</p><P>Nov. 19th, 1856: All this day a terrible gale, such as no person has any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:there was very little wind; no more in the city.  Felt at San Bernardino the same as here, and from Tem&eacute;cula to the Santa Ana river.</p><P>20th: Hardly asleep, about 11 P.M.,  when there was an alarm of fire; great uproar, firing of pistols and ringing of the Church bells, to arouse the population.  From the hill could not discern the house.   Going to the scene, found burning two or three small adobe buildings on Main Street, adjoining John Temple's.  Perfect confusion, everybody talking, commanding, running hither and thither, devising expedients for the occasion.  No leader, no engine; a long line of men was formed down Commercial Street to the water of the zanja and buckets passed from hand to hand so as to supply a good stream, and it was extinguished finally.  Some property lost, but a real benefit has been the fire; a fine brick building will replace the wretched structures destroyed.  This is the second fire since Feb. 3, 1850.</p><P>Nov. 27th, 1856: A Californian woman called to see me to-day, with one of her sisters, the latter about eighteen years of age. Since when very young, the girl had been living in another Californian family here, but now says she is tired of the treatment she receives, being sometimes beaten severely, always badly clothed, and for common treated "as if she were <HI REND="italics">una esclava</HI>
026.sgm:."  They wished to inform me, as the Judge, of her intention to leave, so as to know if she could be forced to return to her master and mistress, (for such seems frequently to be, here, the legal relation of guardian). I found that she had taken up her abode with a respectable family.  I gave them, on this point, what information seemed to be advisable.   I then happened to remember better the woman herself as one who had applied, not long before, for a divorce, and that I had made some order in the matter, especially in reference to the care of the children.</p><P>I inquired how the affair stood as concerned her husband.  She replied, they had made up so far as concerned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:the children; she had delivered them to him and was willing to return to him, and he to take her back, but the mother-in-law resisted any reconciliation, notwithstanding the parish priest had used much endeaVor to change her obstinacy.  This mother fired with wrath wheneVer the Subject was mentioned, and warned the son that if he received again his repentant wife She would give him her <HI REND="italics">maldicion</HI>
026.sgm:, a mother's curse, a wish that he might go out upon the earth in rags, with neither bread to eat nor water to drink, a dire malediction dreaded by the son with a terror he cannot overcome, for which it appears Religion has no exorcismal virtue.  She shed a flood of tears in recounting the conduct observed toward her when, according to the condition agreed upon at the time of the delivery of the children, she twice a week goes to the husband's house across the river to see her youngest boy, now only four years of age.  The old virago lets her have the child a few moments, literally fulfilling the bargain, then rudely tears it away from her arms.  The suit for divorce was brought by her for frequent cruel beatings, incited by this wretched grandmother.  The husband has forgiven the trouble and expense it put him to, but this the mother-in-law neither forgives nor forgets.</p><P>December 13th: Cattle are rapidly dying off for want of pasturage. Much apprehension, a feverish uneasiness, is felt among the people on this subject, already last year having suffered considerable losses.  At a wedding party to-night, I had conversation with Don Ignacio del Valle, who was born here.  He thinks the prospect for cattle is worse than it has ever been in California, within his memory, 30-odd years.  He says that it is not an exaggerated estimate that 200 head now die daily in this county.  As fast as they die, vaqueros are busy at hand to save the hides, which are worth $2 apiece.</p><P>Gen. M. G. Vallejo, in a letter to Mr. J. J. Warner concerning oranges, says, " <HI REND="italics">Yo mismo las vicomer en abundancia en 1820, en San Gabriel, Los Angeles, y Santa Barbara</HI>
026.sgm:."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>August 19th, 1857: To-morrow we are to start for San Diego.  I ought to have been there on last Monday, (that being the first day of the term of the District Court in that County).  We are busy with preparations.  I have just finished the trial of an important motion relating to a case in San Bernardino county.</p><P>The weather this morning has been excessiVely warm here.  I hope we shall experience some relief at San Diego.</p><P>August 20th: We travelled in a light, two-horse buggy, large enough for wife, Chauncey, and myself on the back seat and the trunk and driver On the front.  Left at 7 precisely.  A few miles from the City met the express and passenger stages coming from San Pedro.   Along the road were several large herds of cattle in sight, but what they found to live on was difficult to tell, so barren was the whole prospect. Watered the horses at the halfway house.   Here there might be a garden, at least a few trees, but as yet this has not been thought of.   Stopped to get a drink of water at Don Diego SepulVeda's.  Here within the last two years a good garden has been made, and the green fence of willow, with the peach trees, corn, etc., are refreshing to the sight.  The garden is watered by a well, and pump moved by a windmill, one of the three windmills now in Los Angeles county, for this purpose.  It cannot be long before they are more generally used.  This is about 3 miles from San Pedro.  Don Diego was asleep, but his wife, with the usual kindness of a Californian woman, sent Out two melons for Chauncey.  They were small, but quite sweet and juicy.</p><P>With a little bread and cold fresh pork my prudent dame had brought along--and delicious water from their well--we satisfied the claims of hunger and thirst, and proceeded to San Pedro.</p><P>Here we found Mrs. Banning and her mother, Mrs. Sanford, who had just arrived from San Francisco, and their kindness enabled Mrs. H. to pass the afternoon agreeably.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>The wind blew very strong all the afternoon, with a great deal of dust, at this place.  Walked down on the shore with Chauncey to gather shells; he was much interested in the search, and in the other sights upon the beach.   His eyes see Everything that is going on.   He watched earnestly the labors of the boatmen removing the goods from the lighter to the wharf.  At sunset, as usual, the wind went down; the steamer had landed her freight; the purser with a boat came ashore for us, and we were soon comfortably located in an excellent berth on the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
026.sgm:. In a little while she weighed anchor.  Night very pleasant; sea very smooth. On board I found Gen. Covarrubias with his family, removing them from Santa Barbara to San Diego, of which port he has been appointed Collector.  We also had Mr. Merritt, wife and child, leaving Los Angeles for San Diego.</p><P>Gen. C. told me a story of Don Abel Stearns and an old <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
026.sgm:, Don Antonio Machado, shewing the decorum those functionaries used to maintain in their tribunals. Don Abel was addressing the <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
026.sgm: with one foot resting on a chair.  The <HI REND="italics">Alcalde's</HI>
026.sgm: dignity at length could bear it no further, and he exclaimed in his gruff voice--there are those who remember the burly, rough, but generally good-natured Don Antonio--</p><P>"What a way is this to address the Court, standing like the <HI REND="italics">grullas</HI>
026.sgm: (cranes) who never can keep both feet on the ground!"</p><P>Don Abel's argument was cut short.  Gen. G. says that Don Abel's fortune began in 1842.  He is now considered a millionaire.  Gen. C. has been in California many years, lived in San Diego in 1834, has never known two successive seasons as bad as the last two for drought.  Introduced to Mrs. C.; she has eight children; she was born in San Diego.  He was originally from the City of Mexico--see McGowan's pamphlet, what is said of him; see Land Commission decisions.<ANCHOR ID="n4-4">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-4">Grantee of Santa Catalina Island and Rancho Castiac--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>Mr. Merritt has lived in the Sandwich Islands two years; extols highly the management of Catholic missionaries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:in converting and civilizing barbarous races.  I learn from him that Henry Hancock, Esq., of Los Angeles, was offered the Governorship of one of the islands when he was there some years ago.  Mr. M. wishes to get a piece of land near San Diego with the view of planting 10 acres of orange trees, importing them from the Sandwich Islands; he says that branches of the orange tree set in the ground will bear in three years.  He has a box planted with coffee seeds; took up one to shew me, with a sprout about an inch long; promises me a few plants.  He thinks the banana and pineapple will do in San Diego or Los Angeles.</p><P>21st: Reached San Diego about 5  A.M.  Friend Reiner soon aboard.  He took Mrs. H. and Chauncey to town; sent back his buggy and I went up; cordial meeting with acquaintances.  Adjourned Court till to-morrow.</p><P>22d: Held Court and tried two cases, the other business adjourned till <HI REND="italics">after the feast of San Luis Rey</HI>
026.sgm:, a good cause of adjournment, although not mentioned in the books. Courts cannot violate the customs of the country. The whole world is in motion for this feast, which, however, is facetiously pronounced to be a famine by those who can't go--and I have heard this remark oft repeated. I have been there twice myself.</p><P>Two packets run regularly to the Sandwich Islands, passage $80; make the voyage, I believe, in 12 days. Only one part of one of the Islands suitable for consumptive persons, according to Mr. Merritt.</p><P>Under the new Overland Mail arrangements, a mail is to start the 9th and 24th of every month for Texas; one had already gone; preparations making by the agents for another.  This is considered the first great step toward the Pacific Railroad to terminate at San Diego, and, of course, toward making San Diego a great city.  The people here, always enthusiastic, are in better hope than I have ever seen them, and, I think, with good reason.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>24th: The mail sent off for Texas with Six men, but expect to recruit along the road so as to be strong enough for the Apaches whom they may encounter beyond Santa Cruz.</p><P>Capt. Burton of Fort Yuma informs me that the Pimas have raised this year more than 200,000 bushels of corn, and the Post has now a contract for its supply with grain from that quarter.</p><P>The day we arrived, came in the schooner <HI REND="italics">Monterey</HI>
026.sgm: from the river Colorado, on her way to San Francisco, Capt. Walsh, 66 years old, hale and hearty.</p><P>The case of lynching in Lower California by William Cole and two others.  They shot a Mexican and hung an American named Bill Elkins, whom they found with stolen horses.  When caught, the American remarked:</p><P>"Well, I've been hunting for death for some time past."</p><P>"Well, Bill," replied Bill Cole in his dry way, "you will not be disappointed in about twenty minutes."</p><P>The lynchers having been arrested, a citizen of this place who had been mining there, came up to get certificates as to their character. Their case excited much sympathy, notwithstanding their violation of the laws.  I was applied to, and could not refuse my aid in behalf of these old acquaintances.  This matter of lynching is hard to deal with in this country.   I wrote a letter to Col. Castro, <HI REND="italics">sub-gefe-politico</HI>
026.sgm: of <HI REND="italics">La Frontera</HI>
026.sgm:, in their behalf.<ANCHOR ID="n4-5">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-5">After the occupation of California by the United States. Jos&eacute; Castro fled to Mexico.  He was born at Monterey in the present state of California, about 1808, and returned in 1848, living there and at San Juan Bautista until 1853.  He then returned to Mexico and was made political chief of the Lowest California frontier in 1856.  His military associate in office. Feliciano A. Esparza, succeeded to the command of the northern part of Lower California when Castro was Killd in a drunken quarrel by Manuel Marquez in 1860.--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>August 24th: To-day the Vaquero of Mr. Rose brought in our horse Charley that was stolen in the beginning of last year and taken to Lower California, whence I got him last January. Chauncey was delighted.  I have promised him a ride this afternoon.  Chauncey has talked of Charley at least once a day for the past twelve months. On the return of a pleasure party, Chauncey on a lady's saddle, sitting alone, one foot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:in the leathers of the stirrup, had quite a ride, I leading Charley by the bridle.</p><P>Obtained to-day a number of specimens of minerals, iron ore from near Jamacha, in this county, copper ore from Lower California, etc., etc.</p><P>25th: Messrs. George R. Lyons and Enos Wall return from a Voyage down the Lower California coast, otter-hunting, below Santo Tomas.  They killed ten otter, skins worth about $45 on an Average.  They think they must have chased one 20 miles.  At another they must have fired more than 100 shots before killing, an exciting pursuit. The otter shews his head above the water for air only a little while, then is down again, and swims it may be 100 yards or more before he comes up.  They followed him in the boat, rowing and firing; having a good helmsman, they finally shot him.  The sea was too rough for Very good hunting on this occasion, owing to the strong current making down that part of the coast, with the strong wind blowing up.  Otter, when only wounded, sink, catch the kelp to hold on, and die; when killed outright, they float on the water.</p><P>The town is quite <HI REND="italics">triste</HI>
026.sgm: tonight, so many have gone to the feast.</p><P>26th: Capt. Bogart returns from an adventure down the coast of Lower California for turtle; brought back 50; 10 died on the passage.  The largest weighed about 350 lbs., green turtle, hawk bill.  Caught them about 350 miles from San Diego.  Intends to send them to San Francisco on the next steamer of Sept. 5th.  Keeps them now in the bay. Caught with seine.  He thinks he can make a good business of it.</p><P>27th: Capt. Dublois sets before us a dish of smelt and rockfish caught at the wharf of New Town and grapes and pears from the garden of Lorenzo Soto.  This summer the water in San Diego is generally disagreeable.  We visit the gardens of the town.  Fare rather rough at the hotel.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Capt. Dublois is going away next September.  Chinese cook, speaks enough English for the table.</p><P>Called to see Judge James W. Robinson, who is ill with dropsy.  He was lying on the bed as I entered, and reading.  He put down the book to conVerse, for he is fond of conVersation.  I had the curiosity to inquire what he was reading, it was Coke on Littleton, title <HI REND="italics">Lapsed Legacies</HI>
026.sgm:. I thought of the "ruling passion strong," etc.</p><P>Judge R. was formerly Circuit Judge in Texas.  Anecdote of his sentence of Campbell for murder.  His capture by Santa Ana. Mrs. Robinson.</p><P>28th: News from Lower California.  There is said to be much sympathy for Cole amongst the Mexicans.  It is thought they will shoot Edmunds, or, as he is sometimes called, Stockton, so called from having lived at the City of Stockton.  Stockton declared that he had shot the Mexican when running and at some distance, but the Mexican's hat was burnt as if by a shot close to his head.  His hands were still tied; the Mexicans made Stockton untie them. The Mexicans were much excited at this sight and were on the point of killing all three of the prisoners, but Don Antonio Chavez, drawing his pistol, declared he was their captain and would shoot the first man who would harm the prisoners.</p><P>Chavez formerly resided here some length of time, a fugitive from Lower California when Melendrez was in the ascendancy.<ANCHOR ID="n4-6">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: Suspected of being engaged in a plan to re-enter Lower California with certain Americans, on a filibustering expedition, I issued a warrant for his and their arrest, upon affidaVit of Don Juan Bandini.  His arrest, however, was rather nominal than otherwise; he was always treated kindly by the people.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-6">As Commander of the Northern Department of Lower California, Melendrez defended the frontier against the filibuster Walker.--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>Gen. Castro is talked of with a variety of opinion here. He is generally represented to be an habitual drunkard, although intoxicating liquor seldom or never disturbs his good nature.  He may be called a <HI REND="italics">good liver</HI>
026.sgm:.  Mrs. Bandini <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:says that he has around him, as a sort of bodyguard, Solomon Pico, Andres Fontes, and Chino Barela (these two of the murderers of Barton),<ANCHOR ID="n4-8">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: Manuel Marquez, and other fugitives from justice of Los Angeles.  Magee tells me that upon the arrival of some $8000 worth of goods for the Goodwin Mining Company, Castro sent up <HI REND="italics">six</HI>
026.sgm: mules for goods to be bought on <HI REND="italics">credit</HI>
026.sgm: --had he an idea of ever paying for them?  Dr. Gilbert, who lives about 40 miles from here in Lower California, informs me that the people are heartily tired of Castro and are about rising to expel him.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-8">Sheriff James A. Barton was murdered on Jan. 30, 1857, about 12 miles south of the San Joaquin Ranch, on the road to San Juan Capistrano. Messrs. Baker, Little, and Daley of his party were also killed.  Juan Flores, leader of the gang supposed to have murdered the Sheriff, was hanged near the top of Port Hill, Los Angeles, Feb. 14, 1857, having been condemned to death by popular vote.  Pancho Daniel, another member, was lynched on Nov. 30, 1858.  In the interval there were eleven other lynchings of suspected persons.  Californians and Americans joined to wipe out the band and to put down the lawlessness and disorder prevalent at the time.  Andr&eacute;s Pontes, who was thought to have instigated the death of Barton as the result of a personal grievance, was the last of the Juan Flores gang to survive, and was killed in Lower California either by Esparza or by Solomon Pico.-Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>August 29th: Gen. C. tells me that in 1830 he saw a race horse in Mexico, called <HI REND="italics">el Gabilan</HI>
026.sgm:, shipped by some Englishmen from San Diego, that was famous there for a short distance. He thinks the horse was raised by Pio Pico.  He says that in those days the Californians had very fine horses; they have none such now, owing to the discouragement they have received from repeated robberies for many years.  The Missions had splendid horses.</p><P>Billiards were introduced about 1828 at Monterey, but there could be no bet, only the price of the game, one <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
026.sgm:.  Racing was encouraged here, as throughout Mexico.</p><P>Aug. 29th: Maj. George H. Ringgold returned here on Capt. Eastman's vessel from the coast near Santo Tomas, where he has some men engaged in gathering and dressing <HI REND="italics">aulones</HI>
026.sgm: (avelones), for the Chinese market.  Maj. R. engaged in this at the instance of Capt. Russell and partly to help the latter along.  It is thought likely to prove a good business. There is a great abundance of this shell-fish on the coast. Maj. R. arrived near Santo Tomas just after Capt. Russell was missing.  Magee sent him word that it would not be <illus entity="a026-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN GABRIEL MISSION CHART OF RANCHOS HAVING CHAPELS <HI REND="italics">Copyright photograph by C. C. Pierce of original, which has disappeared.</HI>
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026.sgm:safe for him to stay there, on account of the Mexicans' excitement about Russell's supposed murder of the Indian boy, and his own life might be in danger.  He has, however, made arrangements to have the business prosecuted in his absence.</p><P>I have obtained specimens of copper ore from the mine of San Antonio--Tom Darnall's.  The report is that the Mexicans have taken possession of all of Darnall's property on a supposed complicity with the men that hung Elkins; if so, it may entirely break up his mining operations. Magee does not appear to have much confidence in the mining operations of Goodwin &amp; Co.  They took down goods to the value of $8000, of this, much passed into the hands of the Mexican shareholders, who were easy to accept credit on the strength of the future product of the mines; perhaps, all the goods will go out on a credit of equal character.   No ore has yet been shipped to San Francisco.</p><P>August 30th: Expenses of the family of E., $7000 per annum, a native Californian family.</p><P>Had a long talk with Maj. Blake of 2d Dragoons--his New Mexican adventure--pursuit of Apaches--wife of a chief killed--falls into the river--her beautiful buckskin dress caught by the rocks and brush--shot with her infant in her arms--as she fell she threw the infant on the bank--Maj. B. was then accompanied by a party of "native" volunteers--in the night, at his camp fire, heard the cry of a child--got up to see, it was perhaps three weeks old--the New Mexicans said they were going to knock out its brains against a tree--he told them, if they did so he would tie them to a tree by their feet and knock out <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
026.sgm: brains--sent the child and a wounded soldier into the settlements, with some sugar for its food--it lived four months, but finally died.  The Maj. would like service in the Calabasas country.  Maj. Stein now there.  Col. Beall and Maj. Blake outrank Maj. S.</p><P>Maj. Blake, in command of the post at the Mission of San Diego, made an estimate for $5000 worth of supplies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:thanked him inwardly, as I am adverse to "talking law" in such circumstances.  A most agreeable visit.  Spending a couple of hours, we returned to town, Dr. Hammond accompanying us on horseback.</p><P>The election passed over more quietly than any I ever saw.  Emily has exchanged calls with the American ladies she knows here; there are not many of them.  Since she does not speak Spanish, few of the Californian ladies have called.</p><P>Sept. 6th: This is our last day, as we expect to leave in the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
026.sgm: which arrived this morning.   Charley, Chauncey's horse, gives me some trouble, as I am afraid I cannot get him off; if the wind does not pull, the boat will not come to the wharf, then there are acquaintances to see, etc.</p><P>Don Juan Bandini is going to his rancho of Guadalupe to-morrow, and the next day to Santo Tomas; if Cole etc. wish, and the authorities contemplate a regular trial, he will act as their attorney.  He says that several months ago Castro himself gave an order that if any horse or cattle thieves were caught, they should be put to death "without more ado!"  Don Juan says therefore he can carry home to Castro the responsibility for this act of Cole and relieve him from blame.</p><P>The weather is pleasant although windy. Every day we have been here has been quite warm, in the forenoon; I never knew it so warm here. We are to have many agreeable passengers on the boat this trip, Mrs. Bandini, Mrs. Charles Johnson, Miss Margarita Bandini (Chata), Gen. Covarrubias, Mr. Raymond, of San Francisco, George Alexander, Charles Brinley, Mr. R. Doyle, agent of the Overland Mail Company.  Could not get Charley on the boat for the wind; had to leave his on a rancho here, to the great grief of Chauncey.  As we are leaving the wharf, a schooner arrives from San Francisco, with hay for the use of the Government troops at San Diego.  Barley, etc., for the same purpose are also habitually shipped from San Francisco. Passage from San Diego to San Pedro, $10; same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:down; $1 in carriage from wharf at San Diego to Old Town; $5 from San Pedro to Los Angeles; $35 from San Francisco to San Pedro.</p><P>A pleasant passage, beautiful night, at daybreak arrive at San Pedro, soon on the way to Los Angeles.</p><P>What <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
026.sgm: cattle live on at this season?</p><P>Sept. 7th: Beautiful morning for stage ride; mirage off to the left, as we approach the halfway house.  Song in Spanish by Gen. Covarrubias.  Make the trip to Los Angeles in 3 1/2 hours. Stage takes us to our house.  Chauncey runs first to his dog Carlo, who is very glad to see him.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>V<LB>THE DEATH OF MRS. HAYES; JUDICIAL NOTES</HEAD>
026.sgm:<P>Sept. 8th, 1857: Election news.  Marchessault has said, "Now we will beat Judge Hayes!"  I received a letter from Father Raho, who has visited the prisoner Johnston.</p><P>Sept. 9th: Answer letter from Mrs. Creal, of Platte Co., Mo., in respect to the estate being administered here of her husband, Dr. Joseph Creal, who was murdered in the Monte of this county.  Write an article for the <HI REND="italics">Clamor Publico to</HI>
026.sgm: explain the late transactions at Santo Tomas, in Lower California, in order that a correct notion of them may be had by the public.  Basket of peaches sent kindly by Don Juan Domingo.</p><P>10th: Visit to Wolfskill's for peaches.  Very few this season. We got the last.  Emily walked there this morning, and was improved by the long walk.  Wolfskill has cut down a large number of worn-out peach trees, 17 years old, to make room for oranges.  He thinks that the grape vine, with care, may last 100 years.  He gave Emily a bottle of the pure juice of the grape.</p><P>11th: Another long walk with Emily this morning, to Wolfskill's and then a little further to old Mrs. Fogel's. Returned laden with peaches and ripe figs.  Dinner lobster and figs in milk and sugar.</p><P>It is now nearly a year before an election will be had for District Judge.  I am informed that, already, some men are publicly declaring that they must begin with arrangements to defeat me, if I should be a candidate.  Perhaps I may have to present my name in self-defence.  Since I was elected five years ago, I have studiously kept out of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:political agitations, contenting myself with giving my Vote, and avowing myself as a Democrat at all times.  I learn that the present U. S. District Judge spent a portion of the last election day at the polls, <HI REND="italics">challenging voters</HI>
026.sgm: and giving his opinions upon questions of election law.  The present County Judge was Inspector of the primary election a few weeks since.   An illustration of California judicial life. Would this be tolerated in any other part of the Union?  I believe neither of these gentlemen was educated to the Bar, which may explain their indifference to what is due to their positions.</p><P>Happily for my own peace of mind, I have kept aloof from the wire-working as well as from the more stormy scenes of politics.  I am curious to see the result. Perhaps I shall be a candidate.  Emily says she does not wish me to be.  My father once told me that he had often lost greatly in life by not taking my mother's advice.  What if Emily be right on this occasion?  The matter will have to be thought of carefully.<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">Mrs. Hayes died on the evening of the following day, Sept. 12, 1857.--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>Sept. 14th: Last night I was induced to sleep at the home of my brother-in-law, Dr. Griffin.  My feelings had become somewhat composed, and I slept comfortably.  Chauncey stayed at his Uncle Eaton's. I went up to see him early this morning, found him playing with the two children, his cousin Mary and little Fred.  He was four years old last April. I pointed out to him the graveyard where lie his mother and his little sister, who died the same night she was born. He is not old enough to be sensible of the nature of these events; his mind soon ran off upon the little dogs he had been playing with.</p><P>I remained there all the morning, then returned to my house.  I had more calm in the old rocking-chair alone, than anywhere else.  Long I thought of her, and made resolutions for the future.  I had thus spent most of the afternoon, when two ladies, Do&ntilde;a Maria Antonia Coronel and Do&ntilde;a Soledad Coronel, old friends of ours, came to visit me.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:How grateful one should be for the thoughtful kindness so remarkable in those of the California population!  What admirable delicacy they have in bringing one's thoughts back to the dead, yet in a manner that soothes the anguish of recollection.  They knew and appreciated Emily. They made me explain all the details of her life during the last three or four days, or led me to enlarge upon it by the questions their kindness or their tact suggested, 80 that I felt a degree of comfort at the end of the conversation. Their brother was the proxy through whom my brother-in-law, Graham L. Hughes, stood god-father for Chauncey. When they came Chauncey was not with me.  Do&ntilde;a Soledad wishes him to come to their vineyard, to stay some days and amuse himself with their little boys' hobby-horse; and she kindly hinted that the music would be a relief to me.</p><P>Sept. 15th: This afternoon went to see Rev. Father Blas Raho. Delightful priest, what solace in his words.  To-morrow High Mass is to be chanted at 8 A.M. for the repose of the soul of my wife.</p><P>Sept. 16th: I have returned from Church. There were present two Sisters of Charity and one of their orphans, Mary Joseph, and four Californian ladies, none others.  I might, in accordance with the custom here, have sent written or printed invitations.  Thus there would have been a large congregation.  I felt better as it was.  Father Raho, in the choir, chanted the requiem. Father Garibaldi sang the Mass.  A simple bier was erected in the aisle, with four lighted candles, a cross surmounting it.  Around the bier Father Garibaldi concluded the services.</p><P>Sept. 17th: I went necessarily out into the City to-day, and chanced to meet but four or five acquaintances, two of them among the French.  One managed to get in a word of sympathy; others expressed much even by their manner, as they bowed to me.  At different times several of my Jewish friends have addressed me.  "It is the lot of all," they uniformly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:first mail arrived from Texas not long since, and I took a lively interest in the matter.</p><P>Chauncey does not forget to present his long-standing petition, that to-morrow I should buy him a colt in lieu of the one presented to him by Don Jos&eacute; Sepulveda, which has been stolen from us.   Called for him at his Uncle Eaton's; as they would not have milk until after dark, we went to the French restaurant, the Lafayette, where the attentiVe Jean succeeded in finding a small jug of milk.</p><P>Yesterday I received a note from Father Raho.  "The bearer is a poor, honest woman recommended by the Father of San Gabriel.  This day is the feast of the Mother of Mercy, <HI REND="italics">age</HI>
026.sgm: mercy to the poor."  He inclosed the letter from the Father, the woman also came to see me.  As Judge I could do nothing for her, the case being remediable only by appeal to the County Court.  A lawyer for her--I confess I looked around me in <HI REND="italics">despair</HI>
026.sgm: --I can think of but one, Mr. Columbus Sims--I will endeaVor to see him tomorrow on the subject. These unjust judgments, too frequent, must some day bring Vengeance upon their authors.</p><P>On the 9th, I wrote an article for the <HI REND="italics">Clamor Publico</HI>
026.sgm: in reference to Lower California affairs.  I felt that the conduct of Solomon Pico at Santo Tomas, as described in that article, merited a general pardon for all his offenses committed in this State.  In connection with the documents of Crabb's expedition, will be found a note made by me on Sept. 9th.  I had receiVed a letter from Robert H. Miller inquiring in behalf of the wife of Wm. H. McCoun for information as to this expedition, in which occurs this passage:</p><P>"Was Wm. H. McCoun <HI REND="italics">certainly</HI>
026.sgm: killed in it?  He has a wife here, and she is desirous of knowing."</p><P>My note is as follows:</p><P>"During his stay in Los Angeles, McCoun called to see us.  We inquired if he had let his wife know of his departure.  He said he had not; he was afraid it would make her unhappy to know it, whilst his affairs might be in suspense; he thought it would be better to wait till successful (which would be in a little while), and then she would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:learn his triumph and his departure at the same moment. This was about the substance of his idea.  I confess I was never without misgivings as to this success so confidently looked for by him. I knew more of Sonora and Sonoranians than he did."</p><P>The only consolation I could give was to manifest my interest in his fate, by furnishing a minute detail of all the incidents connected with the expedition, together with passages from the different presses of this State after the event was known here, trusting that her grief might in some measure be assuaged upon finding that, unknown to her, the full tribute of tears had flown for him already in a distant land, from a host of warm sympathizers whose affection was surpassed only by her own.  He had left his wife last September in Kentucky.  Almost the first news received from her, after his return to California, was that one of his little boys had killed the other whilst they were playing with an old gun. It is a sad history!<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">Wm. H. McCoun, former State senator from San Joaquin, Joined the expedition organized by H. A. Crabb, ex-candidate for U. S. Senator from California on the Know-Nothing ticket, which attempted to interfere in the internecine strife in Sonora at the instigation of the Ainza family, of which Crabb's wife was a member. The filibusters spent considerable time in Los Angeles and San Diego before embarking on the project which ended in their massacre, and interest in their fate was intense.--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>28th: Poor John Brannegan, he has suffered much from an accidental shot in his thigh.  Went in to give him a name for his child born on the day of Emily's burial.  I suggested Maurice, which pleased him and wife, particularly when I pronounced it in Spanish and told her it was the name of Don M. S.  He is a mulatto, she an Indian.  Maurice Brannegan, decidedly Irish in sound.</p><P>The Sheriff called to see me to take the examination of Thomas King, who killed Lafayette King on Saturday night last.  Johnston is to be executed on next Saturday. Yet, within less than a week of an event that has excited the attention of every man in the county, another bloody act has been perpetrated.  To me it sometimes seems that capital punishment is useless.  I recommended the Sheriff to take the prisoner before a Justice of the Peace; I could not attend to it.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:of this Institution, Don Francisco P. Ramirez translating them into Spanish.</p><P>Do&ntilde;a Vincenta Sepulveda called this morning.  Pleasant to hear a wife's excellency praised in musical Spanish, and by one herself an excellent woman, nor homely, although the mother of daughters married.  And then, the California ladies shew so much sympathy for Chauncey. Alas, Do&ntilde;a Vincenta, you likewise told me you wished to see the guardian of your young daughter Ramona, for $200 to buy dresses for her.  None of my business, of course. But I could not Avoid a pang of regret at this probable extravagance, which makes so much against the real usefulness in society that might characterize the Californian ladies, even with the present wrecks of their estates.</p><P>Just before she left, Do&ntilde;a Vincenta spoke of her lawsuit with Don T. Y., and hoped the Judge would make the lawyers and witnesses prompt, so that at the next term the case could be done with once for all.  For your own good, amiable Do&ntilde;a Vincenta, I sincerely wish that you had nothing to do with lawyers or a lawsuit.</p><P>Emily was not a persistent novel-reader, preferring works of a different character.  I have read to her many works since our marriage.  At St. Louis we thus spent our evenings.  At Los Angeles, after supper, she would quietly place herself by the work-stand "for her studies"; I would read.  I mention some of the reading during the past twelve months or so:</p><P>Prescott's <HI REND="italics">Conquest of Peru</HI>
026.sgm: and his <HI REND="italics">Conquest of Mexico</HI>
026.sgm:; Rev. Mr. Haskins' <HI REND="italics">Travels in Italy</HI>
026.sgm:; Cardinal Wiseman's <HI REND="italics">Fabiola</HI>
026.sgm:; Shakespeare, a few plays; Walter Scott, <HI REND="italics">Rokeby</HI>
026.sgm:, and smaller pieces; Butler's <HI REND="italics">Lives of the Saints</HI>
026.sgm:; Joannie Baillie, devotional pieces and poems; Wm. C. Bryant, poems; Schiller, <HI REND="italics">Death of Wallenstein</HI>
026.sgm:; Campbell, <HI REND="italics">Jacqueline</HI>
026.sgm:; Rogers, <HI REND="italics">Italy</HI>
026.sgm:; Charles Lamb's <HI REND="italics">The Wife's Trial</HI>
026.sgm:; Newman's <HI REND="italics">Discourses to Mixed Congregations</HI>
026.sgm:; St. Alphonsus Liquori's <HI REND="italics">Spiritual Subjects; Sick Calls</HI>
026.sgm: of Rev. E. Price; Cardinal Wiseman's <HI REND="italics">Lectures on Devotion to the Holy Eucharist</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>I do not wish to convey the impression that she was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:"literary lady."  She received a plain education, at Linden-Wood, and was always a reader of useful things.</p><P>Sept.30th: Two Californians and a Frenchman call to have me set a case for hearing.  I have postponed it till to-morrow. The Californians did not forget, in a feeling manner, to express their sympathy with me.</p><P>Oct. 2, 1857: Various copies of <HI REND="italics">The View of Los Angeles</HI>
026.sgm: to be sent to friends.  The buildings on the hill, to the extreme left, are of Mr. Benj. S. Eaton, where Emily and I boarded from Jan. 1,1856, till April 13, 1857.  On the higher hill, above the dwelling, are the remains of the fortification made in 1847 by the American forces.  Back from this--not represented--the hills extend a considerable distance, lofty and beautiful always, particularly when the rains clothe them with Verdure.  The public city graveyard is a few hundred yards back of the Fortification; many of our friends repose here.</p><P>The Catholic Cemetery is indicated, but it is difficult to locate it in writing.  We called the high hill our garden, from the number of wild flowers we gathered or transported from its north side.  We often rode over the hill down to the Los Angeles RiVer on the other side.</p><P>Directly in front of you, rather to the left, far up in the town, the long, white building, with what appears to be a steeple, is the Catholic Church.  Our first residence was about 250 yards on this side of the Church.  Resided there from Feb. 14th, 1852 till January 1, 1856.  The house of Don Juan Ramirez is in sight. That of Mr. Wm. Wolfskill, as well as ours, are not represented in this View.</p><P>[When the <HI REND="italics">View in 1857</HI>
026.sgm: was made Temple Street had not been cut through. The first building on Main Street, the two-storied adobe with verandahs, is the old Temple Block.  It was built about 1830 and rebuilt of brick about 1857, forming the nucleus of the Downey Block.  The next building to the right is the Lafayette Hotel, where Judge Hayes resided after the death of his first wife, and in which he died.  It was erected of adobe on the site of the home of Eulogio de Celis, rebuilt in 1866, and improved in 1873, its later name being the Cosmopolitan.</p><P>The third building north of the Lafayette, nearly opposite the Stearns residence, is the Montgomery House, a gambling house "conducted with considerable elegance and decorum" and frequented by the better classes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:It was a one-storied adobe about one hundred feet wide, with a shaded verandah.  This property was owned by Juan Domingo.</p><P>Between it and the Plaza Church Judge Hayes resided from 1851 to 1856.  The <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
026.sgm: in 1852 stated that he lived in a house leased from Felipe Garcia and had sublet one room to the County as an office.  The only property in the neighborhood owned by Felipe Garcia was that next to the Montgomery House on the north.  The lot was 65 feet wide. It was deeded in 1853 by Garcia to Jos&eacute; Mascarel, the deed stating that it was bounded on the north by the Marina Garcia lot, on the south by the Montgomery House, on the east by Main Street, and on the west by vacant lands of the city, New High Street not having yet emerged.</p><P>The Marina Garcia lot was deeded to her by Guadalupe Uribe and A. F. Coronel.  In 1855 she deeded it back to Se&ntilde;or Coronel, mentioning the Hayes property on its northern side, the Mascarel property on the south, Main Street on the east, and the <HI REND="italics">Calle Alta Nuevo</HI>
026.sgm: on the west, one of the first references to New High Street.  The house had been occupied by one E. Stone as a carpenter shop.  The deeds do not give the width of the property.</p><P>Next is the Hayes property.  The Ayuntamiento gave it to Dolores U. de Elisalde in 1847.  It was conveyed by her to Jos&eacute; Mascarel, and he sold it to Benjamin Hayes and Jonathan R. Scott on June 18, 1850, for $1000, it being "a house and lot marked on the map of said City as being on the <HI REND="italics">Calle Principal</HI>
026.sgm:, bordering on the <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
026.sgm:, immediately opposite to the building heretofore commenced for a courthouse, containing two rooms and standing detached and a few feet back from the main row of houses on said street, but said lot fronting on the street aforesaid and containing in all about the number of 1500 square yards more or less, it being the house recently occupied by Mr. John Thomas." In March, 1852, shortly after the arrival of Mrs. Hayes, Mr. and Mrs. Scott conveyed their interest to Judge Hayes.  The description is similar to that of the premises which he was occupying when he was shot at in November, 1851.  B. D. Wilson bought it in 1855 for $2000, the deed stating that the property fronted on Main Street 30 varas, more or less, "said front ending on Bridge Street and running along Bridge to New High, thence southwest to the line of the Marina Garcia lot, which lot Is now occupied by Perkins, and thence easterly along said lot of G. Uribe or M. Garcia to Main Street near where there is now a stone planted."</p><P>J. Chauncey Hayes has been told always that he was born on New High Street.  Whether or not Bridge Street was Republic Street is not Indicated.  Mr. Fred Eaton recalls that the latter was called Gas Street, and it was also called Sonora Street.  It probably was identical with Bridge Street.  In the <HI REND="italics">Centennial History of Los Angeles County</HI>
026.sgm:, of which Judge Hayes wrote the second part, he states that his office in 1851 was on the Oriental site, which was opposite the Pico House.</p><P>On New Year's Day, 1856, Judge and Mrs. Hayes moved to the Eaton home on the hill.  Mr. Eaton thinks they occupied the smaller adobe at the extreme left.  The larger adobe on the hill was the former <HI REND="italics">cuartel</HI>
026.sgm: or jail, which was turned into a residence in 1853 when the new jail was built at the corner of North Spring and Franklin streets. Mr. B. S. Eaton had constructed a road up Temple Street to the cemetery and was given a 200-vara lot for this service, which contained the <HI REND="italics">cuartel</HI>
026.sgm:, where he resided.</p><P>The location of the house in which the Hayes family lived from April 13, 1857, until the death of Mrs. Hayes in the following September is not indicated.  There is a small water-color painting of it in one of the notebooks.  Judge Hayes referred to it as being in the "lower part of the city."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>Judge Hayes moved frequently. Mr. Eaton recalls a suite of rooms occupied by him in the Lanfranco Block on Main Street opposite the Temple Block, at the time of the wedding of Mr. S. Lazard in July, 1865. The famous King-Carlisle fight, In which five men were killed, commenced later on the game day.  Judge Hayes had been attorney for John Rains, who was an enemy of Robert Carlisle, the two men having married daughters of Col. Isaac Williams.  When the fighting commenced, Chauncey Hayes and Fled Eaton were sent to warn Judge Hayes that Carlisle, "a nice fellow but a fighting man," was in an aggressive mood. Bright lights were burning in the windows of his rooms and the boys found him immersed in study, having returned from the wedding festivities.  The lighted windows, the studious Judge, and the body of the first man killed in the fight, which lay in the street, the victim's <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
026.sgm: and the hat which he had held over his hand cut in shreds and his heart exposed, made an indelible impression on their minds.</p><P>John Rains had been murdered on November 17, 1862.   Manuel Cerradel, who appeared to be the actual murderer, was seized by a mob and hanged on the tug <HI REND="italics">Cricket</HI>
026.sgm: at Wilmington while being taken to San Quentin for another crime.  He had implicated Jos&eacute; Ramon Carrillo in the crime and on Monday, April 13, 1868, Se&ntilde;or Carrillo appeared in court for the second time with his attorney, Ygnacio Sepulveda.  It was said that an organization existed determined to hang him.  There being no evidence upon which to detain him, Judge Hayes discharged him. He was murdered not long afterwards.--Editor.]</p><P>PETER H. BURNETT TO BENJAMIN HAYES Sacramento City, Oct. 2, 1857. Before I read your letter, I happened to see the death of Mrs. Hayes announced in one of the morning papers. I often look over the lists of deaths.  My own cannot be far off. . . . I was once an Infidel.  But I examined the subject calmly and patiently, and I found the proofs sustaining the truth of Christianity overwhelming, and I became a Christian. I have observed most closely, and the Christian who is "wise as the serpent and harmless as the dove" is always the most useful in life, both to himself, his family, and his country. . . . I have sought to do equal and exact justice to all men, and to all systems.  My only object is, to employ the short time that remains to me, in the best manner possible.</p><P>My dear old friend, I sincerely sympathize with you in your severe loss.  The virtues of your deceased wife were well known to all her acquaintances.  But she is gone, and you and I must soon follow.<LB><HI REND="blockindent">"He mourns the dead the best<LB>Who lives as they desire."</HI>
026.sgm:</p><P>Let us make a calm and determined resolution to do our full duty under all circumstances, and then let us set forward and upward.  We can do it.  Let us try it. . . .</p><P>Oct. 5: Got from my sister Louisa Emily's copy of Thomas &aacute; Kempis; Louisa had borrowed it to be read by Hon. B. D. Wilson when prostrate under the shock given him by the death of his little daughter Maggie several months ago. To him a terrible blow.  The mother bore it better.</p><illus entity="a026-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE VIEW OF LOS ANGELES, 1857</p></CAPTION>
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026.sgm:<P>Her maiden name was Emily Martha.  Gertrude she added at her confirmation, which sacrament she received at Los Angeles at the hands of Rt. Rev. Bishop Thaddeus Amat, Bishop of Monterey.  I cannot find the date of her confirmation. We were long in deciding whether she would take the name of Gertrude or of Agnes.  We read Over frequently the lives of those saints that may be held up as bright objects for the imitation of her sex. Emily at length preferred the name of Gertrude.</p><P>The case of James P. Johnston, the unfortunate man who was executed Oct. 3, gave me much anxious thought. On the first trial, the jury did not agree, being in favor of finding him guilty only of murder in the second degree, which I then thought, under the evidence of the single witness to the material fact, they might well do.  The District Attorney, Mr. Cameron E. Thom, as was generally understood, undertook in a dark way to assail me, as well as the jury, through the editorial columns of the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
026.sgm:.  I am sure the testimony he offered was inadmissible, and I again excluded it on the second trial.  He had made a Very bungling business of the prosecution.  On the second trial he did better.  I think that I finally succeeded in framing the charge of the Court in language precise and plain, and intelligible to the minds of the men who composed the second jury, knowing that upon this it much depended, whether the prisoner should have a fair trial or not.</p><P>I was satisfied that, under the new Evidence, the crime, in law, was murder in the first degree.  Both before and after the Verdict, I gave the testimony a laborious, thorough examination, endeavoring to put the subject before my mind in every possible view, with the most ingenious defence that might be taken of it.  The actual defence of Johnston was a poor one.<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: I appointed the only attorney who would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:take the case, three declining expressly, although two of them had endeavored to make arrangements for a fee, in which case they would have defended him.  "Public opinion" was against him!</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3">James P. Johnston, of El Monte, shot and killed Henry Wagner on March 30, 1857, in the latter's saloon in Los Angeles.  After a long trial he was convicted and hanged Oct. 3, 1857.  Immediately following this murder the authorities "arrested every drunken person found on the streets without regard to race, color, position in life, or previous condition of servitude, the result being a motley congregation in the city jail, including at one time a doctor, two professors, a Mormon elder, numerous Indians, and loafers of every shade of complexion from lily-white to coal-black."--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>His actual attorney was "sick," as he claimed, at the most critical period of the trial.  Johnston's wife came to my house; took a seat; appeared greatly at a loss to open the conversation.  At length she asked:</p><P>"Judge, what do you think will be done with my husband? They say it all depends on <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
026.sgm:."</p><P>It may be imagined that I felt serious at this View of the case, and the more so that the poor woman manifested the deepest distress.  I endeavored to explain the matter; she finally said,</p><P>"What can I do?"</p><P>I advised her to see at once Col. Jack Watson, who was on a visit from Monterey.  I assured her that he would make no charge for his services.  The next day he came into Court--without the advantage of having himself examined the witnesses--and made an eloquent speech on behalf of the prisoner.  But without effect.  Never shall I forget the scene in the Courthouse, immediately after the jury pronounced their verdict.</p><P>After his conviction, I found there was a strong opinion prevailing, that his execution ought to be fixed by me at the shortest time (thirty days), and this, notwithstanding he had begged for the longest.  Such was not my opinion. I had once before sentenced a prisoner for less than sixty days (47 days); I have always regretted it. But he died with evident repentance.  There were some arguments in Johnston's case in favor of the shortest time, such as, that he had friends who might aid him to escape; that his wife must have access to him, and this would require a laborious and extraordinary vigilance from the officers; that he was known, it was said (his wife having intimated that he would never be hung), to have sent to San Francisco either for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:poison or for some acid to facilitate the removal of his irons.  It was observed, too, that an <HI REND="italics">example</HI>
026.sgm: was necessary.</p><P>The following is my address to the prisoner, as reported by the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
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026.sgm: of the tragedy, although it took place in full View of my back door, at a spot where nearly the whole City could behold it from their houses.  Chauncey's curiosity was much excited; he frequently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:called me out.  I do not think I perfectly succeeded in making him comprehend the proceedings.</p><P>Going out thus at his calls, I could see the vast crowd upon the hills, the armed men around the scaffold, and a few upon it.  The sun beamed brightly upon the white form of one, the rest were in black.  Once I distinctly heard an invocation to Deity, from the preacher, no doubt; then twice I saw a motion of the hand, as if the condemned was speaking.  To me, it seemed that they detained him very long in a position so agonizing. Finally I became interested. I put on my spectacles.  Another interval, brief!  A slight change Of place by the forms in black left the <HI REND="italics">white form</HI>
026.sgm: alone an instant.  On another it sank out of my sight behind the mass of spectators.  The throng there remained as before, as motionless as the ground under their feet, save that now and then a bayonet glittered; they seemed to stay very long.  My attention was called away.  When I looked again, not a solitary person was to be seen.  I was up in town soon afterward on business.  There was an unusual absence of levity among the men I met on the crowded streets.  The only person I made an inquiry of was the French barber,</p><P>"How did he die?"</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Tr&eacute;s bien</HI>
026.sgm:," was the reply.</p><P>Oct. 7th: While writing letters to-day the annexed invitation was delivered to me, by the colored boy who is employed to visit the dwellings, etc., for this purpose.</p><P>"You are respectfully invited to attend the funeral of the late Mrs. Anne Eliza, wife of Mr. W. M. Stockton from the residence of Mrs. Macy, in the City of Los Angeles, on Thursday, the 8th of October, 1857, at Three o'clock, p. m."</p><P>This lady lived near the Mission of San Gabriel, at what is called the Pear Orchard, an old establishment of the Mission Fathers.  Her husband now claims title to it. There are probably over a hundred bearing pear trees, of many varieties.  A pleasant place to visit.  Emily once spent three weeks there when she was sick.  Nothing could have surpassed the kind attention lavished upon her by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:since I first clearly presented my name, which gives me the most delightful satisfaction.</p><P>Up to this time my salary has been $3000, commonly payable in scrip at 50, 60, or 70 cents.  The present Legislature has raised it to $5000, payable in cash, this new provision to take effect on the first of January next.  I must pay some election expenses, and I owe a note of $500 with interest at 5 per cent a month.<ANCHOR ID="n5-4">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-4">On Tuesday last Judge Hayes, in the District Court, made the following order:<HSEP>"It appearing to this Court that the room in which it is now holding its session, is altogether unfit for the purpose of a Court Room, by reason of its want of accommodations for its officers and juries, and a general dilapidation of the house, and it further appearing that the Sheriff has failed to procure a suitable room, under the previous order of this Court, for want of sufficient time,<HSEP>"It is therefore ordered by the Court, that the Sheriff of Los Angeles County do procure a suitable room in which to hold the session of this Court, and that he also procure a proper jury room, and a room for the Judge's chambers.  And it is further ordered that the Sheriff furnish the aforesaid rooms in a suitable and proper manner for the accommodation of this Court, its officers and juries, and that he supply the same with the necessary fuel, lights, and stationery."<HSEP>The Court House, it is true, is in a dilapidated condition, and when the order was made, a stream of water was pouring down each side of the Judge on the Bench.  <LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star, Dec. 31, 1859</HI>
026.sgm:.<LB>[The Courthouse was at this time on the northwest corner of Spring and Franklin streets.--Editor]</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>When I was at San Bernardino last, I obtained two small fir trees and two pepper trees (a most beautiful evergreen) to plant over Emily's grave.  Owing to the arrangements being made for an entirely new cemetery, I was advised not to put them there.  With many other trees and flowers, they are planted around the large Cross that stands in the yard of the Church down in the City.  They may still be considered as adjoining her resting-place, for among Catholics the place where the dead repose is as a part of the Church.</p><P>Nov. 4th : I often think of poor Ben Moore.  I visit his grave three times a year.  On my last visit to San Diego, a friend and myself went to the battle ground of San Pascual, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:he fell, distant about 35 miles from San Diego.  It is within a few yards of a small Indian village.  The old Indian chief shewed me the exact spot where Capt. Moore expired. Two Californians who were present explained the manner of the fight, and I made full notes of all the circumstances. Lt. Churchill, U. S. A., promised me to go and make a sketch of the battle ground.  It has not yet been done.</p><P>January 5th, 1860: Tomas, an Indian, was Sentenced to be executed on the 27th day of September last, but escaped from jail just prior to that day.  He was subsequently re-taken, and on the 4th day of December I appointed the 31st of January for his execution.  He had in cold blood killed his wife and daughter at the Tejon Reservation, to which place he belonged.</p><P>In fixing his execution at so remote a day, I was governed entirely by the consideration that he ought to be allowed all opportunity for religious instruction.  Today I was mentioning the subject to Father Raho.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">I was glad</HI>
026.sgm:," said the Father, " <HI REND="italics">that I had not baptized him</HI>
026.sgm:, before his escape; because, on my late missionary visit to the Tejon, I ascertained that he had announced that he had come back there solely to kill the alcalde of the Indians and two others; and this being done, he was ready to die and cared not what `they did with him'."</p><P>Dr. Hayes, physician of the Tejon establishment, informs me that the Indians are very much afraid of Tomas; consider him a bad and dangerous man and desire his death.</p><P>In a conversation this evening with Dr. J---- G---- whose ideas are always benevolent, he advanced the opinion, that this Indian ought not to be be executed, and I am more than half inclined to agree with him.  I suggested, that some of our citizens should petition the Governor for a commutation to imprisonment for life, in which I would concur, although I felt it to be inconsistent with the obligations of my position, to take the initiative in such an application.  I said nothing to Dr. G. of the religious motive for such a step, arising from the obduracy of this poor, uneducated man; but put it upon the ground, that his punishment <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:capitally was not likely to be conducive to one end of punishment, namely, as an example &amp; a terror to those amongst whom the crime was committed, none of whom, I supposed, would be present, and, perhaps, not a half dozen of them would ever hear of the event.</p><P>(The execution will be private, within the walls of the jail-yard, under the present law.)</p><P>On the morning of the day of execution, a strong feeling began to pervade the community in reference to this prisoner, Dr. Jno. S. Griffin, Dr. Thos. Forster, the Rev. Father Raho (who had been attending him religiously), as well as many others, expressing the opinion that his mind appeared to be not above idiocy, or that he was insane. An application being made to me, under our statute, I gave an order concurring in the summons by the Sheriff of a jury of twelve persons, to determine upon his supposed insanity. Accordingly by 2 P.M. the inquisition was concluded; and the jury found him to be <HI REND="italics">sane</HI>
026.sgm: --contrary to my expectation, and, as it seemed to me, to the expectation and wishes of a large number of the people who were in attendance.</p><P>A feeling of <HI REND="italics">awe</HI>
026.sgm: appeared to rest upon society--of doubt and fear--lest this poor man after all should have been found guilty originally when insane, or executed in that state, even if his conviction was right.  I confess I could not help now and then participating in this solemn feeling of all around me. The Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
026.sgm: gave the following brief account of this execution:  <HI REND="blockindent">EXECUTION.--On Tuesday last, a miserable, imbecile looking creature, Tomas, an Indian, was executed in the jail yard, for the murder of his mother and wife.  Some humane persons had an inquisition held -before the Sheriff and a jury of twelve, as to his sanity, or moral accountability; the jury agreed that he was a proper subject for the operation of the law and he was operated upon accordingly.</HI>
026.sgm:</p><P>Rev. Father Raho told me there was no person to speak for the Indian, before the Sheriff's jury.  His attorney, appointed by me at the trial in court, should have attended to this; long since, I intimated to him my own opinion that there should be a commutation of punishment.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>1864-- <HI REND="italics">(A Retrospect</HI>
026.sgm: ).</p><P>Among my correspondence I find the following letter from Col. A. W. Doniphan to Capt. Jefferson Hunt, of San Bernardino:</p><P>Liberty, Mo., Sept. 1, 1852. I was pleased to learn that Mr. Hayes was a candidate for Judge. with a fair prospect of success.  The office could not be entrusted to worthier hands, nor the ermine more secure from a stain.  If any of the old and well-remembered friends of the long and bitterly persecuted Latter Day Saints should be in your district, say to them from me that duty and gratitude require that they should now help Ben, for when he was a stranger in our State, he boldly stood up for their rights and nobly sustained Atchison and myself, in resisting a reckless persecution, when there were few to say "God save them!"  They know I have been their fast friend amid the blackness of darkness, and would now be the last to deceive them, when we may never meet again.</p><P>In respect to office, I cannot say that I have to complain of ill-luck.  Soon after my arrival at Los Angeles, Feb. 4, 1850, Opening a large package, I found it to be a commission from Gov. Peter H. Burnett for Notary Public, the more valuable because, so his letter advised me, this was all he had left to bestow, so carefully by that time had all the offices of the new State been sought for and "gobbled up."  I did not qualify.</p><P>A secret <HI REND="italics">junta</HI>
026.sgm: of all the leading Californians, at the residence of Don Agustin Olvera, early in March, selected me as its candidate for County Attorney, an office then provided by law, in addition to District Attorney.  Our ticket had a large majority.  Native Californians were then in the ascendancy.  Don Agustin Olvera became County Judge, Don Ignacio del Valle Recorder; Don Manuel Garfias, Treasurer; neither could speak Or read English. Benj. D. Wilson, Esq., was County Clerk.  We took the oath of office April 1St, by simply signing the constitutional oath, although a sort of altar surmounted by a large crucifix and with a cushion to kneel upon, had been prepared according to the old style by Don Ignacio, whose piety was somewhat shocked at our cold, unsentimental form on such <HI REND="italics">gran ocasion</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>During the previous months, the acts of the Legislature had come down to us from steamer to steamer, in little pamphlets in English.  Day and night, often late, I worked at the translation of them into Spanish, which I could read very well but could not speak.  The translations were revised <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:by Don Antonio F. Coronel, or other persons occasionally, to correct any idiomatic errors.  Thus these gentlemen were able to post themselves in the new legislation for <HI REND="italics">la patria</HI>
026.sgm:, and all of them soon made as good officers as the County has ever had.  Don Agust&iacute;n Olvera rapidly acquired a knowledge of the English language.</p><P>Mr. Wilson, occupied with his property, which was fast rising in value and which has been the foundation of a Solid fortune, left his office to the care of deputies, among whom Dr. Wilson W. Jones may be mentioned for his efficiency. In September, 1851, I resigned the office of County Attorney, and Lewis Granger, Esq., was appointed.  At the election of March, 1850, Col. William C. Ferrell of San Diego, also a nominee of the <HI REND="italics">junta</HI>
026.sgm:, was elected District Attorney. Afterward Thomas W. Sutherland, of San Diego, held this office awhile, then Benjamin S. Eaton, Cameron E. Thom, etc.  I must not forget the first Sheriff, George Thompson Burrill, Esq., brother of the author of a fine law dictionary. He had lived in Mexico.  His pride was always to appear in public wearing an infantry sword; this was not eccentricity, but he believed it to be an insignia of his high office, all the duties of which he well and faithfully discharged.</p><P>The principle governing the judicial election of the year 1852 is shewn by my election address of 1858.  In the election of November 2, 1852, San Bernardino belonged to Los Angeles county.  The precincts in Los Angeles county were:  Los Angeles, 363 votes; San Gabriel, 170; San Juan Capistrano, 65; San Jos&eacute;, 50; Chino, 14; Santa Ana, 37; San Pedro, 38; San Salvador, 75; Robidoux, 56; San Bernardino, 135.  My majority over Myron Hunt, Esq., my only opponent, was 733 in this county.</p><P>In the trial of William B. Lee for murder, the course of the proceedings finally led to the rupture of the old familiar relations between me and one of the counsel, and to an interruption of all personal intercourse between me and J. Lancaster Brent, Esq., another of the counsel in that case. From this case, I suppose, in part, and perhaps from my decision in the case of the Santa Barbara Mission, in which Dr. Den was interested, and from the hostility of others to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:me (with or without cause), my friends gathered that an attempt would be made toward my impeachment at the session of the Legislature of 1856.  I was advised that Dr. Nicholas Den, of Santa Barbara, recently arrived from San Francisco, had so stated to someone here.  This was all I could learn.  I immediately wrote to Dr. J. G. Downie, one of the members from this county, denouncing those whom I suspected and appealing to the records of the Court and my uniform conduct for my vindication, and my readiness to defend my honor at any moment. I received the following letter in reply:</p><P>JOHN G. DOWNEY TO BENJAMIN HAYES</p><P>Sacramento, Feb. 13, 1856.</p><P>Your favor of the 4th inst. came duly to hand, but on account of the <HI REND="italics">Sea-Bird</HI>
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026.sgm:of Los Angeles, San Bernardino, and San Diego counties.<ANCHOR ID="n5-5">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: In 1863 the counties of Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo were added to this district.  Hon. Pablo de la Guerra was elected by 59 majority.  I had 10 majority over him in the rest of the district, but the soldiers at Fort Yuma gave 69 votes, solid, against me.  I held this office from January 1, 1853, to January 1, 1864.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-5">The precincts In Los Angeles county in 1858 were Los Angeles, San Gabriel, El Monte, Los Nietos, Mission Vieja, San Jos&eacute;, Santa Ann, San Fernando, La Ballona, San Pedro, San Pedro Rancho, San Juan Capistrano, Fort Tejon, Reservation.  In San Diego County were San Diego, San Luis Key, Temecula, Cuyamaca, and San Ysabel.  In 1860, a Sebastian Reserve precinct appears in the newspapers, apparently the same as Reservation.  In 1861 the papers mention, In addition to the above, Tehatchape, Lower Mining Precinct. Upper Mining Precinct, Anaheim, New San Pedro, San Francisco Canon. In 1862 the Los Angeles County precincts were Los Angeles, San Gabriel, El Monte, Azusa, Los Nietos, old Mission, San Jose, Santa Ann, Anaheim, San Juan, San Fernando, La Ballona, and San Pedro.  In 1864 we find Soledad, Wilmington, and Santa Catalina mentioned and in 1865 Halfway House.--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>During the September canvas, 1859, I was grossly attacked in the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
026.sgm:, in the heat of the political excitement then raging, and possibly--I am loth to make the charge--from personal malevolence.</p><P>The accusation was, in substance, that I had induced the Democratic voters, at a primary election for delegates to a County Convention, to desist from voting, after the polls had been opened; and that I caused the ballots already given to be thrown away.</p><P>In the public prints, I took no notice of the article directed against me, under the designation of a "high judicial functionary." Two of the gentlemen whose names appear in the "Card" annexed were to be the Judges of the election, if one could have been held; all three of them being well-known throughout the District for their integrity, I was content with their "Card."  Anything from me seemed to be superfluous.</p><P>TO THE PUBLIC</p><P>We have learned that in the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
026.sgm: of June 11th the Judges at the primary election held at San Jos&eacute; are charged with having refused to keep the polls open, and of having destroyed the ballots after the election had commenced, and that this was done through the advice of a high judicial officer.  In reply, we say the charge is entirely false.  On the 1st day of June there was no election, in consequence of there being but a small number of electors present-not to exceed ten in number -and for the absence of the Judges of Election, Don Santiago Martinez and Don Ramon Ybarra.  The first named did not appear, and the latter left very early in the morning, not having remained more than half an hour.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>This accusation not coming to our knowledge, has not heretofore met with a denial, but we now feel called upon to hurl back at the base imposter the lie contained in such communication to the Star. RICARDO VEJAR RAMON YBARRA SANTIAGO MARTINEZ</p><P>San Jos&eacute;, July 9, 1859.</p><P>ANOTHER CHILD RETURNED TO ITS PARENTS</p><P>Elsewhere in our columns will be found the card of Messrs. V&eacute;jar, Ybarra and Martinez.  By reference to the Star of the date referred to, it will be seen that the foul and slanderous charge is not a communication, but is made in the leader of our self-righteous contemporary, in which appears the following statement:  "An election was held at the time indicated in all the precincts of the county; but in San Jos&eacute; the officers of the election were persuaded after it had commenced, by a high Judicial functionary, as we have been informed, not to continue the same, and the ballots were cast away without being counted."</p><P>Mr. V&eacute;jar, at whose house the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
026.sgm: charges this high-handed outrage was committed, as well as the well-known and honorable neighbors of his whose signatures are attached to the card, spurn the vile calumny, and wash their hands before the people.</p><P>Thus it is, that although these villainous chicks may wander and stray away during the day, at night they return home to roost with the old hen that clucked so fiercely during incubation.</p><P>There is not one word in the card to warrant a single assertion made by the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
026.sgm:, and the only object of the article appears to have been to draw Judge Hayes on the question. Will the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
026.sgm: condescends to inform the public who was its informant that the ballots were thrown away?</p><P>(Southern Vineyard, July 26).</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VI<LB>SAN DIEGO IN 1860-1861; LOWER CALIFORNIA AFFAIRS</HEAD>
026.sgm:<P>Jan. 7, 1860--San Pedro: The rain last night has not left the roads as muddy as I expected to find them.  Start at 1 P.M., in a splendid coach with six horses; clear and cold, a stiff breeze blowing over the plain.  In 18 miles reach New San Pedro; my first visit; surprised to see so much improvement.  Banning gives us a warm greeting, and while they are changing the horses makes us sit down to dinner.  Six miles further to the landing of A. W. Timms; sent aboard in a little pilot boat; glad to meet again Capt. Seely and my old friend Gorman, the mate.  Find aboard, of San Diego acquaintances, Capt. Bogart and young Mr. Ames, of the <HI REND="italics">Overland Mail.  J</HI>
026.sgm:. Ross Browne is here also.  He is now well and favorably known on the coast.  He is the agent of the U. S. Treasury Department; also has somewhat under his eye the Indian affairs of this section of the Union (Oregon included).  Had some conversation with him, in relation to the Indians.  He strongly condemns the management of the reservations, with the exception of Klamath.  Has promised to aid me in procuring documents I need on this subject.</p><P>The sea is smooth, the moon shining brightly, but one prefers the coal-fire of the saloon to the deck outside; in agreeable conversation, it comes to be time for rest.</p><P>Jan. 8th: And, indeed, it was rest for me last night.  I slept soundly, until the report of the vessel's cannon awoke me, as we were rounding Ballast Point, to enter the harbor of San Diego.  Rain is falling at Old Town and in the direction of Lower California.  Lt. Moore and other friends are waiting on the wharf.  Soon off for Old Town in the carriage of the landlord, Mr. Tibbetts.  As we approach the bells are ringing for church.  Pleasant meetings with acquaintances; ever the same hearty, cordial and warm welcome; I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:for his services, and a deep sorrow for his fate.  Singular people!  Do&ntilde;a Reyes sings sweetly the Spanish songs. Inquiring for the guitar, for a friend to accompany her, "the <HI REND="italics">Doctor</HI>
026.sgm: had taken it with him; it belonged to Do&ntilde;a Rosaria, and she gave it to him" to console him in what they would call his captivity.  They consider him as one unjustly persecuted, not as one justly punished.  Nor can the Doctor play a single air with the guitar.  A sentimental sort of trial, from beginning to end, except to the taxpayers; the costs, payable by the County, being $2500.  A fair illustration of the expense of administering the criminal laws in this part of California.</p><P>Opened the term today.  Wm. C. Ferrell, Esq., who is attorney in several cases, does not appear.  He is known to have been working at his papers up till 3 o'clock this morning. One thinks, he went out into the hills for a walk, and has lost himself in <HI REND="italics">geological</HI>
026.sgm: speculations; George Ryason says, with a knowing sort of positiveness, that Ferrell has gone on sudden business to Lower California.  Not a few still express uneasiness on account of his strange conduct.</p><P>I forgot to mention that one of my brother-passengers was Gen. Jos&eacute; Castro.  He is on his return to Lower California to resume the command; left today with a single servant; opinion is divided as to the result.  Col. Kenrick, Indian agent, and J. Ross Browne left today for a tour among the Indians of this county.  I am glad of it, for the benefit thus likely to accrue to the Indians.  Both these gentlemen deserve the highest encomium for philanthropy and official fidelity.</p><P>My room is well furnished, commodious, quiet, but too cold for writing; gladly, therefore, I accepted the invitation of the County Judge, D. B. Kurtz, to make use of his office, and betook myself there as night came on; a coal fire; very comfortable.  Soon saw I would not be able to write; rather pleased than otherwise at the prospect of a cheerful "time" with the ladies.</p><P>Do&ntilde;a Reyes rallied me on my "love-scrapes." I never heard her talk so well before.  Kurtz, she said, was getting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:fat upon <HI REND="italics">calabazas</HI>
026.sgm:.  (When one fails in his love, they call it receiving a <HI REND="italics">calabaza</HI>
026.sgm:, a squash, I believe).  She talked of a thousand things in her prettiest manner, and when she retired wished us "pleasant dreams" in English of the softest accents.  Joined by young Mr. Forbes in the parlor, while Kurtz and I remained in the office, she sang Spanish songs; charmed by the melody, I remained an hour longer than I intended.</p><P>Do&ntilde;a Ysabella Ruis was there too; she is the mother of Mrs. Maria Ampara de Burton.  Occasionally came in Do&ntilde;a Victoria, the mother of Do&ntilde;a Reyes.  Ysabel Pedrorena also, just blooming into womanhood, in whose future many take interest.</p><P>I had a slight toothache, learning which Do&ntilde;a Victoria declared she could cure it, and disappeared.  Soon the venerable lady came back, holding in her two hands a piece of cotton rag.  At first I thought she had something to put in the tooth; she made me understand that her prescription was to be taken outwardly.  Accordingly, as directed by her, I held out the <HI REND="italics">third</HI>
026.sgm: finger of my left hand, she tied around it the rag, which, I observed, had on it two or three fragments of garlic. If it had been <HI REND="italics">chile colorado</HI>
026.sgm: on the tenderest skin, it could not have pained me more than this did after the lapse of an hour.</p><P>Speaking of going down the bay to see them capturing whales, I used the word <HI REND="italics">bayona</HI>
026.sgm:, which made the ladies smile; they corrected me with <HI REND="italics">ballena</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>Free from toothache at this moment; instead of it, precisely three little blisters on my third finger.</p><P>Shewing Do&ntilde;a Victoria the state of my finger, she says: "That is <HI REND="italics">el anillo de cordon</HI>
026.sgm:." I believe she has a spice of coquetry, even at 60; I confess I am somewhat susceptible at 44.</p><P>Jan. 11th: Evening with Do&ntilde;a Reyes and Ysabel, and Judge Kurtz; Do&ntilde;a R. in good spirits and sings for me <HI REND="italics">El Marinero:</HI>
026.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>EL MARINERO <HI REND="blockindent">Cada instante que paso en la tierra<LB>Me es tan corto que parece un sue&ntilde;o<LB>Ni en los brasos de su caro due&ntilde;o<LB>Halla abrigo el marinero infeliz;<LB>Las borrascas de un mar agitado<LB>Me recuerdan a cada momento--<LB>Hay, dios mio, no mas sustentimiento!<LB>Cielo santo, no quiero vivir.</HI>
026.sgm:</p><P>"Do you know, Do&ntilde;a R., who taught me that song?"</p><P>The quiet but quick Ysabel took me up and guessed at once:</p><P>"Dolores Alvarado."</p><P>Ysabel seemed to be Struck with my profile on the white wall--reflection of the candle--nothing would do but I must submit to her drawing the outline with a pencil which she ran and brought; Do&ntilde;a Reyes amusing herself by giving an extra touch to the proboscis of the County Judge. When the moon rose Kurtz went out to shoot ducks on a pond near the town.</p><P>Jan. 12th: Every morning here has been cold, this likewise. Gen. Drown and myself went to New Town.  Found Dr. Edgar at his quarters; he accompanied us to visit Capt. Ketchum. Soon arrangements made for a sail up the bay in the Capt's. boat, the <HI REND="italics">Sirena</HI>
026.sgm:.  Mrs. Ketchum a very pleasant lady; she spoke of the suspense as to their future destination, in the frequent removals to which army officers are subject.</p><P>Sailed nine miles up and back; within sight of the houses of La Punta, where reside the family of Don Santiago E. Arguello.  Pelicans flying over and around us. There was plenty of ammunition, as Capt. N. called it, to wit, a well-filled tobacco box, with pipes for twice our number.  I did not smoke.  Our crew were four soldiers who aided the Capt. in managing the sails.  Jimmy went with us, the interesting son of Mrs. Netchum by her first husband.  The voyage ended happily; I shall long remember it.  Lunched at the quarters of Dr. Edgar, after which Capt. N. came over.  Amid the wreaths ascending from their pipes beamed many a smile at the anecdotes that filled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:up the time till the setting sun admonished us to be on our way.  Capt. K. was on the Missouri frontier when a youth, in 1819 I think; his father was an officer of the U. S. Army.</p><P>At the Estudillo house in the evening.  Do&ntilde;a Victoria seems to be proud of the Spanish descent of Ysabel [Pedrorena, Ed.]; shewed me the miniatures of Ysabel's father, grandfather, and grandmother, and of two uncles. One of the latter is secretary to Queen Cristina; the other was a Carlist, and was killed in the troubles.</p><P>Jan. 13th: The picnic at the lighthouse.  Preparations.  Mrs. Felippa Marron and myself, Ysabel and Mr. Williston, Do&ntilde;a Reyes and Capt. George Pendleton, Luz Marron and her brother, Doyle and madam, Mrs. Woods. Arrival. Bogart and his clams.  The chowder.  Dance.  Do&ntilde;a Reyes' belt and the guitar.  The whole might deserve a description, not forgetting Reiner, an ingratitude which, I fear, he has too often met with.  Very cold on our return.</p><P>J. Judson Ames; Ferrell's history; the San Diego <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
026.sgm:; Wm. H. Noyes (sick again); Jack Stewart; Wall and his stories; wedding of George Smith; Padre Juan; whaling history; relations of Lower California; property of John Hayes; Col. Magruder; New Town; lighthouse; tide-gauge and Cassidy; present picture of San Diego, compared with past. 19th: If it does not rain, Do&ntilde;a Victoria is going to Los Angeles; her son, Guadalupe, offers me a seat in the carriage.</p><P>Capt. Packard informs me that the whaling season is from December till April; can probably within that time make 1000 barrels, worth $13,000. Expects on this steamer, from San Francisco, enough casks for all his purposes. The whales are taken out at the kelp, as they pass down, on their way to calve in the bays and inlets of the Lower California coast.  Several ships are now below on that coast, engaged in whaling.</p><P>Dense fog at night, heavy wind outside the harbor.</p><P>Talk with old Do&ntilde;a Juanita Osuna and Don Julio about their rancho troubles; they come to town and claim an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:audience, whenever I am here.  Two weddings of soldiers this week at New Town.  Jimmy went to one, and, as Mrs. Ketchum told me, returned earlier than she expected him, saying:</p><P>"I did not enjoy myself as I thought I would; Mrs. Conners said there was but one cake, and that was for the Judge."</p><P>Everyone who knows Judge K., who performed the marriage ceremonies, will sympathize with Jimmy.</p><P>20th: The funeral.  Whilst engaged in burying Frank Steele, the Catholic bell tolls for an Indian woman.  Returning to the hotel, we learn that the eldest daughter of Sheriff Lyons is dying.</p><P>Is my little boy still living, or will the steamer bring me bad news?  An arrival from Lower California brings the intelligence that Gen. Jos&eacute; Castro, upon his arrival at Santo Tomas, and taking the command, fined Don Jos&eacute; Saiz $10,000, and Geo. Ryason $2000, for the part they took in the recent "revolution." This is considered here as a very arbitrary and oppressive act.</p><P>All anxious to receive the President's Message, and to know if we have acquired Lower California and part of Sonora.  A gun fires; the steamer?  No; we are disappointed.</p><P>May 16, 1860: Gen. E. Drown and myself delayed by Col. Gitchell, in getting off from Los Angeles.  Final start.  Buggy with two mules, fine and large.  Started Wednesday, May 16th, at 2  P.M.  Pleasant drive to Anaheim; beautiful young vineyards; notice great improvement since my last visit. 27 miles.  Next morning start, at 4 1/2 o'clock, for San Luis Rey Mission, about 60 miles distance.   Reach San Juan Capistrano, 33 miles, at 11 1/2 o'clock; no hotel; Miguel has a dinner cooked for us by a Chile&ntilde;a; fare not to be complained of.</p><P>Visit Don Juan Abila; three handsome young Californian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:ladies seated in a row on the porch; not introduced to them; exchanged glances now and then, impossible to avoid; daughters of Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Yorba.  Miss Nympha of striking appearance.  Don Juan strongly condemns the action of Esparza, of Lower California, in killing recently in so summary a manner 15 desperados who had from time to time fled from this state to that region.  He says that if the noted Chino Barela had been killed by Esparza, the native population of Los Angeles County would have sent a force there to expel him from authority and revenge the deed.  Don Juan reasons that the men killed had done nothing <HI REND="italics">in Lower California</HI>
026.sgm:, whatever they may have been guilty of in this state heretofore.  So, I find, all the native population argue, on the subject of Esparza's conduct.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1"><P>After the killing of Castro on April 14, 1860, by Marquez, who was under indictment for murder at Los Angeles, Esparza. who was left in command of the Lower California frontier, determined to rid La Frontera of the Californian outlaws who infested that region.  About May 1, 1860, he executed Solomon Pico, Andr&eacute;s Fontes, one Alipaz, and others.  Serbo Varela's sentence was suspended and he returned to Los Angeles, where he was found murdered four months later.  He was loved by the old American settlers because he saved the lives of a number of them after the attack at wino during the Mexican War.  Some accounts state that Pico killed Fontes.--Editor.</p></NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>Visit Do&ntilde;a Ysidora, the estimable lady of Mr. John Forster. He is now absent above, but expected on the next steamer.  Do&ntilde;a Ysidora is a sister of Don Andr&eacute;s and P&iacute;o Pico.  Very lively; praises Nympha highly; insists that we must stop at her house on our return.  Photograph of Don P&iacute;o hanging upon the wall, the same one I gave to Estefana, now Mrs. Capt. Johnson.</p><P>At half past one leave, the tide rising on the nine mile stretch of beach we have to travel; hasten on; coming to the hills, our mules sweating; instead of stopping to refresh them we push on; at Las Flores, an old Mission establishment, discover that we shall have to camp for the night. One mule will not go further; he seems to consider 50 miles enough.</p><P>Here there appeared to be only a couple of <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
026.sgm:. They were driving a band of mares into the corral as we arrived, the sun still an hour high.  One of them came to us, a native of Sonora, and kindly informed us that his <HI REND="italics">comadre</HI>
026.sgm: would give us something to eat, and we could sleep at the house they were quartered at. Asking me for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:tobacco, which I gave him, he went off and we made our way back to the house.  I confess, upon examination we were not much prepossessed with our quarters.  I had, however, before camped in worse places.  In a little while the vaquero took us, about a quarter of a mile, to his <HI REND="italics">comadre's</HI>
026.sgm:, who was busy cooking supper.  A pleasant spoken little old woman from Queretaro, Mexico, about a year here.  To all our questions she responded quickly and pertinently:  "I was the bearer of the holy oils from Father Raho to the parish priest of San Diego."  Mentioning the fact to these poor people, the men reverently raised their hats and the woman made the sign of the cross.</p><P>She and her husband were living in a little shed, open on three sides and roofed with straw.  They are here, for the present, in order to watch their cornfield nearby against the inroads of Mr. Forster's cattle at night.  She appears to be the head of all affairs; ordered grass to be carried up to our animals, etc., etc.; the supper soon came from the hands of this active housekeeper.  Fried eggs, <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
026.sgm:, coffee with sugar, we ought to have been, and were, satisfied.  She told us we should have a bowl of milk before starting in the morning.  Supper finished, as we were about to retire to the hill Gen. D. put a two dollar and a half gold-piece into her hand.  She exclaimed, "O, what shall we do here!" as if she was at a loss for change.  He told her it was all for her, with our thanks besides.  We left her in the midst of the invocation she began to <HI REND="italics">Maria Santissima</HI>
026.sgm: and all the saints to protect us on our journey, in life and in death.  One of the men brought us water; another followed us with grass.  In a word, we lacked no attention from these simple people.</p><P>Fortunately our worthy friend of the Lafayette, in Los Angeles, had the day before provided us with a long loaf of bread, cut in half through the two ends and thickly buttered.  The Gen. and I consumed one-half at supper and gave the buttered side to our hostess.  Having neither bread, nor flour to make it, she seemed to be well pleased. I hard her say, as if speaking to herself, "All this comes from the house of the padre!"  I wonder if she did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:take me to be a priest.  This is a pretty valley; narrow; formerly an Indian pueblo (see my Mission Papers).</p><P>We had brought barley, in the grain, from San Juan. Finally, to avoid fleas in this dilapidated house, we made our bed on the pavement outside.  The cushions of our buggy Seat served for pillows; I had brought along a double blanket; this, with the Gen.'s light shawl, constituted bed and covering.  We tied the mules to a stake in front of us, stirred up the fire with brush, and retired to our "blessed couch" for we were tired.  The Sonorian is married and went home, in the low ground near his <HI REND="italics">comadre's</HI>
026.sgm:; some candy which I had brought for a young friend further on the road I gave him for his child; who, although still at the breast, knew how, he said, to eat <HI REND="italics">dulces</HI>
026.sgm:.  A Mexican youth slept by the fire, on the opposite Side, with less protection from the cold air of this night than we had.  Just before going to sleep, he told us that people, strangers, were in the habit of coming there at any hour of the night.  As a matter of prudence, for the safety of our animals, I determined to keep awake. The General slept soundly through the greater part of the night; I did not sleep at all; so I saw the new moon rise before daylight, and derived an unusual satisfaction in watching the stars.</p><P>Our mules ate indifferently; seemed to disrelish their barley which we had kept in water for them several hours, and travelled badly the next day.</p><P>18th: At daylight we were up; soon everything was in order for the start.  Our friends milked their cows, but we declined the milk.  Bidding them a friendly <HI REND="italics">Adios</HI>
026.sgm: we put out for San Luis Rey. Could not get the mules out of a slow walk, and were still 50 miles from San Diego. Concluded to breakfast at Tibbett's.  12 miles.  Nobody home except Mrs. T. and her children; husband out cutting extra oats for hay.  Did not think to ask her for horses; afterwards were given to understand by her husband that we could have obtained them.  She is a native lady, a daughter of the old soldier Don Juan Rodriguez of San Diego, a charming woman, an admirable housekeeper.  In a little while, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:she gave us a good breakfast.  Long chat with her, while the mules were greedily devouring the oat hay, for two hours.  Pretty and interesting children.  Tibbetts is from New Hampshire; branch of the family in San Diego.  His improvements.  Miss Mary Tibbetts.  Former stage route of Capt. Paul.  Fruit.  Soil.  Mission of San Luis Rey. Don Jesus Moreno's letter, once Sent by me, to San Juan! An Indian <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
026.sgm: remains here, near him, on the river; it has some peach trees.  The oat hills run from San Luis Rey River toward Santa Margarita valley; they can yield an immense amount of hay.</p><P>Don Jesus Moreno, Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Pico with his spouse, Do&ntilde;a Magdalena, occupy part of the Mission buildings; keep little stores.  Don Jesus is justice of the peace. Alas, the cherished <HI REND="italics">fiesta</HI>
026.sgm: is now interdicted by the Vicar-General, my old friend Father Raho, on account of the disruption and irregularities attending it.</p><P>Don Jos&eacute; Ant&oacute;nio Pico and Don Jos&eacute; Ant&oacute;nio Cot held a claim of twelve leagues, including this valley and Pala, from Governor P&iacute;o Pico, which has been confirmed by the U. S. Land Commission to their assignee, Wm. Carey Jones. To the Catholic Church has been confirmed the Mission Church, with buildings and gardens, containing 53.39 acres. This was the last [eighteenth-Ed.] Mission established in California.  It is said to have surpassed all the others in splendor.  It is fast going to ruin.  When I first saw it, in 1854, an expenditure of $500 for repairs on the roof would have preserved it many years.  In its decay and solitude the old grandeur yet lingers there.  Its condition January 2, 1847, when Commodore Stockton and Gen. Kearny encamped there, is thus described by Dr. John S. Griffin in his <HI REND="italics">Unpublished Journal</HI>
026.sgm::</p><P>This Mission is situated in a large valley, with handsome grounds. It is an extensive building, the front being five hundred feet, including the Church which is said to be beautifully ornamented.  It was locked up and we did not see the inside, though some of the sailors did break In at the back window, and, I am sorry to say, removed articles, fortunately of little value.  Every effort was made to discover the sacrilegious scamp, without avail.</p><P>The rooms in the Mission are very commodious, many of them adorned with rude paintings, some of saints, others of birds, marvelously resembling a goose, (the refrectory).  The chairs are of oak of the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>Saturday, 19th: Off at half-past six; beautiful road through immense fields of wild oats to Encinitos, 13 miles; make it in 2 1/2 hours, unavailing, soon we enter the hills and it becomes certain that we shall not arrive at San Diego as we expected to do. For the most part, a dreary country from this rancho on.  Stop to give the mules water at Soledad.  Meet the young widow of Don Bonifacio Lopez, recently deceased. Smiling and polite; she is just out of her garden; with a man's hat on, I did not know her at first.  Two boys, "chips of the old block"; she says she has at her father's (the place has the cognomen of <HI REND="italics">Valle de las Viejas</HI>
026.sgm: ), several young single sisters!</p><P>Gen. D. pointed out the steep ascent, and a narrow path indeed, up which Don Bonifacio used to gallop his horse, full speed, and down again at the same gait, to the infinite admiration of his fellow-countrymen, all of whom are remarkable for their horsemanship.  It is in view of his residence, quite near; if I lived there, so perilous is the feat, that it seems to me it would haunt me in my sleep. This land of Soledad is claimed by the City of San Diego, and has lately been offered at public auction, with what result I do not know.</p><P>Twelve miles more, road pretty good, brings us to the door of the Franklin House.  As we drive up, we see a crowd about the courthouse, where a trial is going on. They come to greet us, with the characteristic friendliness of all the population of this place.</p><P>We are too late.  <HI REND="italics">At noon</HI>
026.sgm: the Sheriff adjourned the District Court till next term.  Many persons were disappointed, but I found, upon inquiry, that there were only two cases that could have been tried.</p><P>The "celebrated" Esparza had left about half an hour before I arrived.  He was there as a witness in a case between Don Jos&eacute; Saiz and Mr. R. K. Porter, both of Lower California.  I regretted not having seen him; a conversation with him would have been useful to me.</p><P>He certainly has done a bold deed, and monstrous, if it be wrong.  While here, a subscription was made for a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>22d: The steamer is in. "Charleston Convention" dissolved; the "Heenan fight" confirmed; these have been the prominent topics of discussion.  Attend to some chamber business.  All well in Los Angeles, at least all of my family, but a friend of mine has met another blow in the death of his child, and the information I have concerning the scenes, at the funeral obsequies of the mother, is distressing.</p><P>Take out the buggy, and Mr. Mason kindly drives me to New San Diego, to visit Capt. and Mrs. Ketchum, Dr. Edgar, and Lt. and Mrs. Moore. There, meeting Capt. Seely, we go aboard the steamer, to shake hands with the jovial Capt. Gorman. Agreeable visit to these officers, and the steamer.</p><P>At night call to see the ladies at the Estudillo mansion, Miss Reyes, Gertrude Arguello, Ysabel Pedrorena. Ysabel is very jocose; calls me her uncle.  In the pretty fashion peculiar to San Diego, I put on today the colors of a lover, <HI REND="italics">novio</HI>
026.sgm:, a white pink.  But, alas, it was given to me by a married lady; and yet not alas, for she is a warm friend, Mrs. Sarah Doyle.</p><P>The suspense is over. The indefatigable A. B. Smith, 40 miles from here, and near San Luis, caught the escaped Dalton, and brought him in an hour before the steamer was to sail. The court met and, in the excitement, sentenced him to imprisonment for <HI REND="italics">twelve</HI>
026.sgm: years.  The prisoner is quite a young man, of handsome address; he sent for law books and defended his own cause, exhibiting, however, a proficiency in law rather suspicious and indicative, many thought, of a previous familiarity with the police office.</p><P>Wednesday: A glorious day for a journey. Bills paid; with a lunch for four, barley for the mules, and kind adieus, we start, accompanied by Col. K. and Judge W. At Soledad no sign of the black-eyed widow.  Eighteen miles further brings us to a spring of cold water, under a wide-spreading sycamore, on the rancho of Penasquitos.  Lunched on ham, hard eggs, and delicious bread, put up by Mrs. Ware.  For <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:several miles the road, in good condition, runs up the canon of Paguay; leaving it finally, another level stretch is passed over rapidly, and we descend the only hill we have seen for 20 miles, to the bottom of a stream, where Gen. Kearny was so closely pressed by the Californians in 1846. The Judge and Col. K. rode on to the rancho of the former, a mile and a half beyond, while we went up to call upon Mr. and Mrs. Henry Clayton of San Bernardo.  It is bad to wake Some men out of the <HI REND="italics">siesta</HI>
026.sgm:, yet we had a few moments of pleasant chat with the family. Tea and ham and eggs offered; "saved ourselves," however, for the repast in store for us at Judge Witherby's.</p><P>His rancho is buried among lofty hills, over one of which, very steep and long, I walked in the approach. At length, the houses, with the camps of the miners, appeared in a view close to us.  Here we found Dr. George McKinstry, from San Ysabel. Visited the miners, Jno. O. Wheeler, James W. Morrow, from Los Angeles; a company of three others called "the Cincinnati boys"; and the negro Jesse who works, like Col. Benton, "solitary and alone" and to whose industry, indeed, we are indebted for first putting this ball in motion.  Wheeler guided us a quarter of a mile off, upon a high ridge, to the "diggings" and shewed us the different operations of the several parties interested. For me all was new; I have never before seen a gold mine. I obtained much information as to quartz, processes of mining, etc. Brought away fine Specimens of quartz. With the machinery now in use, $40 per ton is the highest yield, exclusive of the value of the tailings.  An experienced miner I have met with since, tells me this quartz is among the richest in the state, if worked in a proper manner.</p><P>Judge W. was never married. The visitor regrets that the house is not presided over by one of the fair, but Capt. Kelly is a capital cook, the Judge a sociable host; one is comfortable, "free and easy," while he stays, and departs with feelings responsive to the kind invitation to return soon.</p><P>24th: We left next morning; a level road to Col. Coutts'.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:house more lonely than when we passed a few days ago. Billy and Nancy entertain us with their prattle; Nancy, who does not talk plain yet, tries to please me with the flowers, as we are walking through the garden.  Coming back, I find Billy tying a little dog up to a post, I cannot tell what for; presently he brings a big currycomb and brush, which he can hardly manage, and by his treatment of the imaginary pony, I can comprehend what is running in Billy's mind.  Do&ntilde;a Ysabel is quiet, a demure widow, I cannot draw her out, even with the potent artifice of patting her fat little boy on the head, every chance I get.</p><P>Blount Coutts, brother of Col. C., arrives about sunset. The children have not seen him for a long time; they are now full of glee; little Cuevas, the most talkative of all, went with his mother to Los Angeles.</p><P>25th: Supper, such as one has here, gave me new life. Long before dusk, next day, we were at San Juan.  Mr. John Forster had returned, Mr. and Mrs. Coutts had got that far, on their way home; Charley Johnson accompanied them. Cuevas and I are soon again on the best of terms, and when I finally bade him goodnight, it was with a promise to send him a steamboat full of marbles. I gave Mrs. F. a beautiful wildflower from the <HI REND="italics">barrancas</HI>
026.sgm: of Las Flores, which I had carried in the buttonhole of my coat.  She politely placed it in the vase of roses on her centre-table. Don Jesus Guirado here.  After supper, he accompanies with the guitar one of the little girls of the family, who sings very well her Spanish songs, breathing the very "spirit of love."</p><P>By the industry of a little Italian, the old Mission garden, which three years ago I considered ruined, has been completely restored.  Olives, pears, that once administered to the enjoyment of the Fathers, are again productive. Many young peach trees have been planted.  Corn, every species of vegetable, alfalfa, etc., etc., are growing luxuriantly. The Italian is trying an experiment with Russian wheat.  A fine stream of water was running through the garden at the time, but the scarcity of water, in this valley, is a considerable obstacle.  I would consider it almost a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<illus entity="a026-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE MISSION OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO <HI REND="italics">Copyright photograph by C. C. Pierce of paintings made by E. Vischer in 1865.</HI>
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026.sgm:<P>Since my return, Wheeler and Morrow have washed up their 20 days' work at the mine above mentioned; the yield is about $33 to the ton of ore. They have come to the city now, to get better machinery.  I have mentioned Jack Hinton, as we call him;<ANCHOR ID="n6-2">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: he was formerly a soldier in the Dragoons, more recently a merchant at San Diego and Fort Yuma.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-2">Hinton's real name was Abraham T. D. Hoornbeck.  He was from Rondout, New York, assumed the name of Hinton, and enlisted in the U. S. Army for the Mexican war. The firm of Hinton, Hooper, &amp; Co., had extensive Interests on the Colorado River and in Arizona.  He also owned several thousand acres of land In San Diego County.  His interest In the famous vulture mine In Arizona was very large. He died at the Agua Hedionda ranch on June 26, 1879.--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>June 18: Started for San Bernardino.  Passengers Letha Alice Ballou, Rev. Hosea Ballou, Greward and child, two Jews. Foggy till nine. Road to San Gabriel. Mission of San Gabriel, past and present.  Prickly pear fence.  The Monte. Thompson. Rubottom. San Gabriel River dry. Workman's and Roland's.  Great numbers of cattle and horses. Palomares.  Valley of San JoSe, thence to Coco-munga. Wild flowers.  Clancy's.  Meet Allen on his way to his vines.  New brick house.  Postoffice box on the fence.  Scenery on the road at Coco-munga and toward Robidoux's.  One acquainted with the people and country has many interesting reflections. Grass all dry. Rancho del Chino. Desert to Garner's. Arrive in town a little before sunset. 63 miles. Road made by Mormons, it has not the same busy aspect as formerly.  Crops this year.  Bear Valley.  Dullness of business.  Dancing.  Schools.  Meeting with old friends, Conn, Allen, Dr. Wosencraft, Col. Jackson, Judge Brown, Judge Boren. Ventriloquism.  May Edgar.  Mining prospects in different directions. Establishment of San Bernardino <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
026.sgm:.  Porch of Jacob's hotel.  Jacob's quarrel with the ventriloquist.  Matrimonial relations here, Mormons. Manuel Ochoa and Cayetano Martinez. Shea's case.</p><P>Visit of mine and Emily's over the county when I was a candidate--the scene at Chino--Mrs. Hereford, etc.--the Mormons--the Monte--at Dr. Macey's--at Miguel White's--at Alvarado's.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>July 10: Started to San Bernardino.  Passengers John Brown, Rev. Mr. Greward, printer for San Bernardino <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
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026.sgm:house for arms, took all ho could find, with five or six saddle horses.  Mr. Porter was at the San Quentin salt mines, loading a brig.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
026.sgm:, Nov. 3, 1860.</p><P>(List of outlaws whom Esparza was attempting to drive out of Lower California.)</p><P>The above is a list of most of the band of thieves, as furnished me by the best authority in Lower California. They are probably all now in Los Angeles and San Diego counties, to the great annoyance of all rancheros.</p><P>Esparza has located himself at Descanso, about 14 leagues from San Diego, with a sufficient force for protection against such bandits as may now be preparing about Los Angeles to make another attempt to take his life and make a home for thieves.  In the meantime, what are our glorious Federal authorities doing, and what have they been doing?  Well may the citizens in this county say that Esparza has given us more <HI REND="italics">protection</HI>
026.sgm: than our own great Democratic Government.</p><P>Jos&eacute; Matias Moreno,<ANCHOR ID="n6-3">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: of San Diego, is looked upon as prime mover in all that has been going on below; and now, for fear Esparza may come up to San Diego after him, has left for up country in haste. This man, who has been ruled out of court in land cases, has been in San Diego a number of years at the favorite employment of <HI REND="italics">doing nothing</HI>
026.sgm:, in hatching trouble in Lower California, and thereby keeping this country in a constant muss. We truly hope to see Esparza here in town, and to pay this said Don Moreno a visit, which we have every assurance he will do.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-3">Jos&eacute; Matias Moreno, a resident of San Diego, was Secretary of State of California under P&iacute;o Pico and frequently testified in land cases.  He claimed to have been commissioned Governor of Lower California by the Mexican Government early in 1861. a commission which Esparza also claimed to hold.  In the absence of Esparza, Moreno attacked Descanso, but later withdrew to the mountains.   He had 200 men.  At San Diego this force was taken for Mendoza's outfit and Maj. Armistead proceeded to the line.  Moreno was suspected by the better class at San Diego.  The Bandini and Arguello families, who were friendly to Esparza, moved their personal goods and stock up to San Diego early in 1861. a large number of persons from La Frontera having come there.--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>Mendoza is supposed to be lurking in the vicinity of San Diego, though he is reported to have gone to the Colorado. The Ibarras are reported to have stolen a number of animals, both cows and horses, and driven them up in the vicinity of San Jos&eacute;, in Los Angeles county, where they have relations.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
026.sgm:, Dec. 18, 1860.</p><P>August 13th: Chauncey went to Public School of Miss Emily Foy. His aunt took him; he cried, so a little girl tells me; well that I was not there, else I would have yielded to my sympathies and taken him home again.</p><P>August 15th: Chauncey went to sleep to-night at his Aunt's, so that he can go to school early to-morrow morning. I take Miss <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Laura M. Brown and Miss Kate Whaley to the Sisters of Charity to-day.</p><P>16th: Court in session. Chauncey's school fever did not last long, he did not like it So well in a short time, but he was taken away for another reason which, I believe, I have explained somewhere. Bright starlight, cool, no arrival yet, midnight, from the steamer.  Overland mail from San Francisco not arrived; it was due yesterday afternoon.</p><P>Jan. 9th and 10th, 1861: Both fine days, except toward dusk, when clouds threaten rain again. Steamer arrived on the 10th and the Overland Mail due last Monday. The steamer was reported to be seen entering San Pedro yesterday about sunset. They bring news little favorable to the Union. What fanaticism, or obstinacy, is this of the Northern States, that maintains a bar to harmony, constitutional government, liberty!</p><P>[Sunday] Jan. 13th [1861]: I was mainly induced to go by land to San Diego, on this occasion, by the desire I have long had to see this region when clad in its verdure.  All my other journeys by land except in January 1850 have been in the dry season. We have no stage now, and the expenses are greater; but I thought I would be amply remunerated by the improvement in health, as well as the acquisition of information of the exact condition of the people and their affairs. Chauncey too needed such a trip; he was just about well enough for it; the weather had the appearance of being settled.  I determined to take him along, in fact, I could not conveniently leave him here, under present circumstances.</p><P>J. R. Scott, Esq., started at the same time with John Rains.   District Court adjourned the 12th.   Procuring a buggy and two horses, we started about 11 A.M.  Mr. Samuel Prager accompanying us, a most pleasant companion, and quite a favorite at San Diego.</p><P>13th: Chauncey's valise well filled including a bottle of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>From Temecula to Guajomito (Coutts')<HSEP>25 miles Thence<HSEP>" Encinitos (A, Ybarra's)<HSEP>13<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" San Dieguito<HSEP>7<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" Soledad<HSEP>6 " "<HSEP>" San Diego<HSEP>12<HSEP>"<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">63 miles</HI>
026.sgm: Whole distance<HSEP>154 miles</p><P>As we went direct to the pass of Temecula, I estimate our distance at 150 miles, the village of Temecula remaining to our left, that is to say, the main village where is the Overland Mail Station.</p><P>We returned by San Juan Capistrano, a distance of (?) miles, a table of which it may be well to insert here:</p><P>From Los Angeles to San Gabriel river<HSEP>8 miles Thence<HSEP>" Laguna (new rancho)<HSEP>..<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" Los Coyotes (rancho)<HSEP>..<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" Anaheim<HSEP>..<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" Santa Ana river (crossing)<HSEP>..<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" House of Sepulveda<HSEP>..<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" Junction or road to Teodosio Yorba's<HSEP>..<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" Serrano's (or Aliso's)<HSEP>..<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" San Juan Capistrano<HSEP>9<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" Mouth of valley on beach<HSEP>2<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" San Mateo (creek)<HSEP>8<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" Las Flores (houses)<HSEP>9<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" Santa Margarita (crossing)<HSEP>6<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" San Luis Roy Mission<HSEP>3<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" Guajomito<HSEP>4<HSEP>" "<HSEP>" San Diego (as above)<HSEP>38<HSEP>"</p><P>This last road is somewhat more sandy than the other, and, upon the whole, more level.  From Los Angeles, in one direction, it is level to the river Santa Ana (46 miles), winding through the high hills of the Rosa de Castilla rancho near the city, then returning to those that hem in the valley of San Jos&eacute;; at length ascending from the Santa Ana to the mountain valley of Tem&eacute;cula, and its loftier pass. Thence over a broken country, with long slopes on the southeast side of the hills and ridges, it descends to Montserrate and the banks Of the San Luis Rey; and over the same character of ground, not without an occasional level of a mile now and two miles then, as on leaving Buena-vista (Soto's), at San Alejo, Soledad, and False Bay, it enters the "Old Town" of San Diego.</p><P>On the other hand, you have a level plain, it can hardly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:be called otherwise, from Los Angeles to San Juan.  A little valley communicates with the seashore on which, at low tide, as we found it, the carriage easily moves at the rate of eight miles an hour, up the bank of San Mateo, you have for the most part level ground, or only a gentle rise, to Las Flores; here a long, easy Slope leads to the bad hill of Santa Margarita; and beyond the river of that name another lofty rise occurs, separating this from San Luis Rey river. Thence four rapid miles to Guajomito.</p><P>At the Mission of San Luis Rey, another road goes off intersecting that we travelled at Encinitos, distance, 16 miles; passing by Agua Hedionda rancho, now in the possession Of my old friend Jack Hinton. The long slopes on the southeast of the ridges make this more pleasant going than coming.  I always avoid it when I can, having still a vivid remembrance of trying to find San Luis Rey one night on my way to celebrate the <HI REND="italics">fiesta</HI>
026.sgm: of San Luis in company with Hon. J. W. Robinson. Within a mile of the Mission, just below the ridge by which you approach it, we became somewhat <HI REND="italics">bewildered</HI>
026.sgm:, wandered about hither and thither, repeatedly, as we ascertained at daylight, tracing the track of our own buggy in the sand, to the infinite amusement of the ladies of Guajomito, to whom we tried to account satisfactorily for our non-arrival at an earlier hour. It ruined the feast for me that day. This was the mail-stage route, when we had a mail between Los Angeles and San Diego.</p><P>Left Los Angeles January 13th, arrived at San Diego 16th.  On the 22d we left on the return to Los Angeles, where we arrived 25th.</p><P>I have often traversed this road, with very various feelings, and objects; for me it is full of memories; as a weary emigrant I first saw it, and about the same season, I think.  I miss some of the herds, that then fed upon its rich pasturage. In their place, however, perhaps as much of mere wealth, indeed, much more, must be centered in the flourishing settlement of the Monte, which was then inhabited only by a few souls near its lower end, or the Mission Vieja.  The population too of the Mission of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:we cross the river San Gabriel the sand absorbs all the water in summer; but a few miles below, a new river (as it were) issues forth, which waters a considerable tract on the Ranchito of Don P&iacute;o Pico and Santa Gertrudis (now of Gov. John G. Downey).</p><P>Leaving all thought of these, we enter the valley of San Jose, full of agreeable people, fond of festivity, industrious withal.  Here I have electioneered, and "with a vengeance" too.  And here I have twice received every vote of the residents.  Let me think; a ball once cost me $400. This <HI REND="italics">Valle Josefina</HI>
026.sgm:, verily, I should well remember its green fields and picturesque hills. Kindness rules these people when they deal with me, and I meet them always with good will.  The feast of San Jos&eacute;.  Guitar (peg lost). Ricardo V&eacute;jar and 100 in family.  Palomares.  My heart would be cold to forget the faces of old I was ever happy to see in this smiling valley.  Alvarados, V&eacute;jars, Ybarras, their fortunes have changed since 1852, and threaten yet a greater change as the spirit of speculation begins to brood over and close around them.  Longer here perhaps than elsewhere have lingered the ancient California customs, the elgance of manners, natural hospitality, courtesy, mirth.  Home of <HI REND="italics">jarabe</HI>
026.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">son</HI>
026.sgm:, of Trust as well.</p><P>We pass through without stopping, so many of our friends have gone to the Rincon, where last night was married a son of Roland to Zenobia, a daughter of Don Bernardo Yorba.</p><P>Reach Chino at sunset and summon to our aid John Rains, from the warm fire where he and "Old Scott" are spinning yarns.  By family interchanges, the present proprietor is Thomas Carlysle, now absent above. He married one of the daughters of Col. I. Williams; John Rains married the other, Merced. A vast estate thus came into good hands, for both are enterprising and safe men.  Mr. Rains will soon remove from here to his own rancho, adjoining and immediately opposite to this, namely, Cocumonga. Col. Isaac Williams once owned the Rincon on the river Santa Ana and bounding the present tract; exchanged it for the Brea in the hills to the west, in which he fondly imagined <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:D. Wilson, James S. Barton, John Reed, etc.; Col. W.'s claim against the U. States for war damages; his visit to Washington; appointed Collector.</p><P>The night passed off well, without other incident than the arrival of some gentlemen from the wedding.</p><P>The mountain of San Jos&eacute; in front is covered with snow; San Bernardino too, and San Jacinto are in sight. The city of San Bernardino is distant 30 miles, passing Guapa and Jurupa ranchos, and the New Mexican settlement of Agua Mansa, a plain (it may be said) the whole way, much of it deserving to be characterized as a desert. We are now in the county of San Bernardino, the west line of this rancho being the boundary.  Chino full of cattle; those of San Jos&eacute; mostly range here, which used to be an "eternal torment" to Col. W. He even meditated much upon fencing in his whole land to keep out intrusive neighbors, whose cattle were too numerous for their land.</p><P>Breakfast;  <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
026.sgm: to Do&ntilde;a Merced and her three pretty children; pass the road leading to Temescal Tin Mines; lunch on a pretty rivulet.  Cut some more willow arrows for Chauncey.  He is keen to shoot birds, all of which, however, get off before he can have a shot. I am surprised and pleased with the knowledge he has of different species of birds; beats me, with my nearsightedness also against me. Dr. W. W. Jones gave me an account of the Tin Mines last year; he was then one of the proprietors; has since "sold out," I believe, at a good price.</p><P>Temescal appears to be in decay.<ANCHOR ID="n6-4">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: Some men are repairing the old house. The Pass here is narrow; road good. We are ascending rapidly.  Did not stop at the station; Mr. Greenwade lives there; married to the widow of Capt. Dorsey, whose tragic death is so well remembered.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-4">The claim of Leandro Serrano's successors In Interest to Temescal was rejected by the U. S. Supreme Court. In 1819 Se&ntilde;or Serrano was given a license to occupy, and he remained on the land until 1852. his right never having been questioned. It was held that his written permission to occupy showed that his possession was only temporary.  (5 Wallace 451.)--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<P>From Santa Ana to Laguna, there might be a few small farms. There is one.</p><P>At length, the sun gone, we are going down by a long and gentle slope into the valley of the Laguna, over which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:ever been one of my steadfast friends.  He was once Administrator of the Mission of San Diego, but never made money at this business, as many others have done.  From his house we crossed a fine range for cattle to the head of the Las Flores valley, and then down that grassy valley to the old Mission buildings on the main road. Santa Margarita is one of the best stock ranches in California.</p><P>I do not know why Don Ysidro has not prospered more at Montserrate. He seems to have few cattle, nor has there been much ground in cultivation; lives almost in Indian style. A clever, kind-hearted man, like the rest of his name I have known.</p><P>Not far from San Juan, our horses started, apparently as if to run away; Prager soon checked them; on looking back, Manassee's carriage came up in a gallop. We were just about taking the wrong direction and his arrival was opportune. Giving us the course to Guajomito, we parted.</p><P>We got there before night; Manassee went to the rancho of Don Jesus Machado. The grass looks well on Montserrate, and in this neighborhood.</p><P>At supper the wind blew in violent gusts.  One said, "It is thunder."  "No," said Topir, (young Estudillo, so nicknamed), "`tis the horses in the corral," which caused Col. C. to smile, with an intimation that in Topir's absence at college he had forgotten the affairs of rancheros. One's hours always pass pleasantly here; the <HI REND="italics">tortillas, frijoles</HI>
026.sgm:, and everything else are exactly to the taste of Chauncey (I am not an epicure); the children are full of life and interest to me; Do&ntilde;a Ysidora vivacious, mild, witty, intelligent; Col. C. a good conversationalist, in every respect an accomplished gentleman.</p><P>Poor Cuevas, the youngest son, whom he loves best, was "in Coventry" at our arrival. The father had just sent him to sit in the corner, for quarreling with little Nancy. Father and son both forgot the matter when Chauncey delivered him the marbles of a dozen colors brought from Los Angeles. Soon Billy and the sweet Maria Antonia joined Cuevas and Chauncey and I left them to their varied amusement under the porch.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>Mrs. C. says she has tried to get a little Indian girl to be bound to my sister; it appears to be impossible; the Indians are averse to letting their children go away so far. And if they did, she intimates, one might not be of much benefit after all; as soon as grown, she would probably be induced to leave, and the worse, if in early life treated with much tenderness, "must be raised as Indians." This seems to me to be a hard fate for that race, that there cannot be in a family sufficient tenderness and a degree of education that will wean them eventually from a taste to return to the habits of their tribes. Yet perhaps there are too many influences now working against any sensible improvement of their condition.  Certain I am, from observation, that the great civilizer Religion is too little brought to our aid in the present management of Indians, even in the bosom of white families.</p><P>Col. C. related to me a new trouble he has just had, with a Californian neighbor, concerning two of his Indian servants. The Col. is also a Justice of the Peace of this (San Luis Rey) township; he mistook the legal remedy he attempted to apply, and will have to put up with the trouble for this time.</p><P>Col. C. is a native of Tennessee, a nephew of Cave Johnson. Like most Southerners, he is inclined to immediate secession.  Scott and Rains are of the same way of thinking. We naturally entered into discourse upon this subject. That morning we had received upon the Overland Stage that passed Tem&eacute;cula while we were breakfasting a San Antonio newspaper of Dec. 29th, with the first intelligence of the South Carolina Ordinance of Secession.  Col. S. is a military man, did not think General Scott of the right stamp of character for <HI REND="italics">King</HI>
026.sgm:! What an idea for republican America! Yet who can keep from looking forward to even an iron Despotism, ultimately, after the Star Spangled Banner shall be dragged through all the carnage likely to follow in the first steps of Disunion!</p><P>We found Mr. George Tibbetts here when we drove up. He regretted that his family were not at home. They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:for the scene, which lingers in the imagination and is heightened when the eye falls upon the broader expanse of ocean visible from the lofty elevation beyond San Dieguito; and far up this last-named valley too there spreads out at the same time a plot of verdure that assures us at least "a cottage is near." In fact, although the old houses near the road are uninhabited, the large family of Osuna have their rancho in that direction.</p><P>While we were traversing the shore of False Bay, I persuaded Chauncey to watch the sun as he sank down, down, down from a cloudless Sky behind the waves. Might not the spectacle have been a fit emblem of the Sinking fortunes of our glorious Country?  Alas, if it SO sink it shall never rise again, yet I do not remember that I thought of this, for the child then endeavored to extract from me an explanation of the sunset.  Ere the twilight was gone, we were at San Diego, a coyote following us at False Bay, with manifest curiosity, almost enough to "take him to task" for it.</p><P>Prager went to Manasse's with the horses and carriage. Going over shortly after found him at table with two ladies, Mrs. and Miss Schiller; introduced to them; as I had come merely for an arrow Chauncey wanted, I left soon this pleasant society.  An arrow!  Never did Cupid have such a dart as the eyes of that pretty Jewess.</p><P>With this city, I am just the reverse of that inveterate hater spoken of by the poet, and "the reason why I cannot tell-" but I <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
026.sgm: like San Diego.  <HI REND="italics">Triste</HI>
026.sgm: they call it, that is to say <HI REND="italics">dull</HI>
026.sgm:, for it cannot be interpreted <HI REND="italics">sad</HI>
026.sgm:.  Without business, money, or any visible prospects for the future, I have yet to see the first person in San Diego who is sad.  On the contrary, with all a happy spirit of happy contentment seems to govern the feelings, and they seek pleasure at its smallest fountains.  To-day it is a clam-bake at False Bay; yesterday it was a pic-nic to the house at Fischer's old place; to-morrow to the lighthouse; the same day a jaunt around the beach at low tide to Ballast Point, where a whale will satisfy curiosity; for another, the Punta has the attractive society of four lively damsels; hunting, fishing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:dancing, chatting, (flirting), and what not.  Old Rose himself says: "Well, I don't care," then he is about to lose all that property here which I once estimated at $18,000,000 (taking his own figuring of the year 1856)  Contentment is a blessing I would fain possess to the degree it prevails here.</p><P>Apropos of dancing, Prager's friends had promised him a ball, but no music could be had. The wife of the fiddler died about the 1st of January, and he was still in <HI REND="italics">luto</HI>
026.sgm: and of course could not play.</p><P>The following was my business in court for the present term:</p><P>Victoria do Estudillo vs. Wm. Williams:     Suit for sheep.  Report of Hon. O. S. Witherby, $2000 for plaintiff, confirmed.</p><P>Edward Hayes vs. Jos. R. Gitchell, administrator of John Hayes: Report of referee for plaintiff, $3000; motion to set aside report and dismiss suit, set for argument at Chambers, on first Monday of March.</p><P>John Rains vs. J. J. Warner:     Foreclosure of mortgage on rancho of San Jos&eacute; and Agua Caliente.</p><P>Doyle &amp; Giddings vs. Warren F. Hall:     Change of place of trial to San Bernardino,</p><P>R. E. Doyle vs. same:  Change of venue refused; jury empanelled; plaintiff dismissed his action.</p><P>J. Mora Moss vs. J. J. Warner:  Plaintiff not appearing, suit dismissed conditionally, notice to be given by certain day.</p><P>Lorenzo Soto vs. Lewis Rose;  Foreclosure of mortgage; new trial granted.</p><P>Edmonds vs. R. E. Doyle:     Change of trial to Twelfth District Court, San Francisco.</p><P>People vs. S. Estudillo and J. A. Aguirre:     Suit on recognizance. Death of Aguirre suggested, and his executrix made a party.</p><P>Volney E. Howard vs. Gray:     Continued.</p><P>C. J. Coutts vs. Chapman:  Continued.</p><P>I might have added to these a divorce Suit, of Frank Maradowski vs. his wife, a daughter Of old Andres Ybarra.</p><P>Law-suits often materially illustrate the history of a county; such is the fact with, I think, all the above cases, but I cannot here go into detail.  I preserve the list as a guide to future observations, and the same I should do with two cases formerly decided:</p><P>Maria Ampara de Burton vs. Juan Bandini</p><P>Jos&eacute; Saiz vs. R. M. Porter.</p><P>Both involve somewhat Lower California affairs.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>16th: Arrival.  Introduced to Esparza. Chauncey gives me no trouble, amusing himself, alone, with a kind of game--the front of a church in little wooden pieces--which he is building up and taking down.  Old Mr. Doyle is here, cheerful as usual, Says he brought me Fleury's history of the Jews, but Rose is reading it now.</p><P>17th: Chauncey gone across the river in a little boat with Billy Lyons. Called to See the new bride. Mrs. Capt. George A. Pendleton (Clerk of the Court).  Both are perfectly happy.</p><P>Dr. Edgar, U. S. A., comes up from the post of New Town; naturally talks of the Union, calmly; he fears the result to our little army, as the southern officers must resign, in the event of a Southern Confederacy being established.  Dr. E. is from Missouri, where his father and family now reside.</p><P>Took a walk with Chauncey to Stockton Hill which overlooks Old Town. The day warm, clear, the view grand and beautiful.  How many objects of historic speculation, even if on an humble scale, within the compass of a glance or two.  As I descended, met the Se&ntilde;orita Refugia Arguello near the mansion of Don Juan Bandini, where her family and her grandfather's are stopping.  She has been here three months, since the commencement of the Mendoza movement over the line, from apprehension of a foray upon the Punta, although this rancho is on the American side of the line.</p><P>Don Santiago Arguello, her grandfather, lives at Guadalupe in Lower California; brought his family here for safety, during these troubles.</p><P>18th: Called upon Don Santiago, in the midst of his children and grandchildren. He told me he would give me a book for my "history," but I happen to have it already. I told him of the picture Mrs. Caroline Hartman had painted of him for me, and of the dispute about the color of his eyes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:which I had contended were slightly blue, while Brinley maintained they were black; he raised his eye-lids, So as to shew me; I was right.  He told me that he was the founder of Sonoma, made the map, etc.; I did not push any inquiries, although he might give me very valuable information. Called upon Miss Reyes. She was alone. Juan de Ia Cruz Bandini came in and remained awhile, an agreeable youth, now coming to manhood, and of fine appearance (it pleases me to See).  At night called upon the family of Mr. Tibbetts.  Mrs. T. teaches the school here, quite a flourishing School.  Felicita Sings, while little Stella and Maria  waltz  prettily;  both  younger than  Chauncey. Shortly afterward, a serenade outside; turns out to be Mrs. Kerren's two boys, with a curious hand-organ, the same Dr. H. brought from San Francisco and used to play at the Mission post, in days of yore. Mrs. T. brought the boys into the hall; <HI REND="italics">oh, my ears</HI>
026.sgm:!  Still they continued to grind, and four other boys were waiting each to take his turn at it, when these should get tired. It stopped the dancing; Maria and Stella each tried to once but gave it up, whether because they could not keep the step, or wanted to see the machine, I could not understand.</p><P>20th: Too much liquor drank here these last few days, one finally has delirum tremens, an estimable man too; all is more quiet today.</p><P>Talk concerning the Union; few have any hope; all are calmly and firmly awaiting the result.</p><P>Old Mr. Doyle is from Kilkenny, 45 years in the U. States. Yesterday I visited Victoria at Mr. Lyon--Ysabel--Piedad--Mrs. Robinson--Serafina--Mrs. Writington.</p><P>Expedition to the Playa to witness the whaling operations.  Rains and Chauncey and I.  Prager took Mrs. Schiller in the buggy; Manassee escorted Miss Schiller; Schiller and Jo. Manassee, etc., accompanied us. Refreshments, cake, pie, etc. Capt. Bogart took part of us aboard the ship <HI REND="italics">Ocean</HI>
026.sgm:; we were shewn around to see everything, boilers, bombs, harpoons, gigs, guns, boats, oil, blubber, and what not.  Before leaving, refreshments were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:gathered for Miss Schiller the branches of the <HI REND="italics">islaya</HI>
026.sgm:, now in bloom, and very pretty.</p><P>21st: Drizzling rain.  Compton makes a belt for Chauncey as a present; formerly a Sergeant at the Mission, now a saddler.  His daughter is at school at San Francisco, his wife in a "situation" in Alameda County.</p><P>A race was to come off to-day between Cris, the butcher, and Jos&eacute; Mar&iacute;a Estudillo.  The Court rendered it necessary to defer it; the Sheriff took the precaution to summon both on the jury. A busy day, a horse-race, Court, and election of a County Supervisor.  Capt. Clark of the <HI REND="italics">Ocean</HI>
026.sgm: comes to town; regrets he was not aboard to receive us yesterday, gives me much information. Impressed with his manly appearance; I do not know why, but he reminds me of Col. Benton. Our visit had one bad effect, or contributed to it, I am sorry to say. Two of the ship's hands rowed the boat in which were the ladies and Manassee made the cooper, a tall Dutchman, a present of a bottle of whiskey. Capt. C. was out at sea with the whale boats; hardly aboard at night when the cooper seized the first mate by the throat, in reward for which he was knocked down with a hand-spike. Some further difficulty was soon quelled, and Capt. C. tried the offenders and put them ashore. They are now in town, trying to bring suit against him.  He found nearby all hands drunk when he came aboard, down to the cabin boy; blames the steward. In place of the delinquent three hands intends to employ Indians, whom he can get here, at $15 per month.</p><P>Capt. Clark informs me that he was here in 1834, as a whaler.  He was at Monterey in 1831, but did not then pay any attention to the California whales, the object then being the sperm whale.  In 1842, he caught two whales inside the harbor of San Diego. He was here again in 1847; then had a mutiny aboard.  All the men signed a paper making some demand upon him, which he refused.  His three officers stood faithful.  At first he tried persuasion; it failed.  He then made a signal of distress; placed a revolver in the hand of each officer; ordered the first man, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:a robust fellow, to duty. This refused, he commanded the officers to Seize him, which was done; tied up; the lash applied. This firmness quelled them, just as the Sheriff, Philip Crosthwaite, with 30 of the Mormon Battalion, came aboard, in answer to the signal, which they had seen from the shore.</p><P>I visited Do&ntilde;a Victoria de Estudillo to-night, as I will leave to-morrow.  Do&ntilde;a Reyes is at Capt. Pendleton's. Ysabel was here and occupied Mr. Rains in converse, while Do&ntilde;a V., in her easiest Strain, talked of old times.  I do not know how the conversation led that way, perhaps from my telling her of our trip yesterday. Her eldest daughter, Marcellina, was the first Californian lady that ever went to the United States.  This was after her marriage with ---- Gale, an "ancient mariner," whom the Californians always called <HI REND="italics">cuatro ojos</HI>
026.sgm: --four-eyes--from his wearing spectacles. He traded considerably on this coast.</p><P>"Ah!" said Do&ntilde;a Victoria, "what pleasant times we used to have!  Every week we went to the Playa-aboard the ships--dancing--music--frolic-silks- <HI REND="italics">rebosas</HI>
026.sgm:."</p><P>She spoke something of the whale ships then, but not very clearly; I think she confounded them with the purely trading vessels.</p><P>On our route to Los Angeles, the 25th, Stopping at Los Coyotes, Do&ntilde;a Refugia de Bandini gave us a lively picture of San Diego "when she was a girl" (nor <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
026.sgm: many years ago). The prettiest women were always to be found there, even from Sonoma their hands were sought in marriage. Commerce was flourishing. It was the reign of prosperity and plenty.</p><P>"How often did we spend half the night at a <HI REND="italics">tertulia</HI>
026.sgm:, till 2 o'clock in the morning, with the most agreeable and distinguished society!  Our house would be full of company, thirty or forty persons at the table; it would have to be set twice; a single feast then would cost a thousand dollars. But, in those days, the receipts at my husband's store might pass $18,000 a month."</p><P>That portion of our party which went to the Lighthouse had the good fortune to see the shot from a boat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:was just finishing the trying out of a bull, producing 40 barrels.  Capt. J., from 7 whales, has made 200 barrels. He is also interested in the company at Dead Man's Island, Bay of San Pedro, which is doing well there too.</p><P>Both these companies employ chiefly Indian hands, at $15 per month.  The work is measurably light, and the Indians well content with this pay, better than they can get at any other kind of employment.</p><P>Capt. Packard considers that he has done well, but thinks the large number of ships that will come here next season on hearing of the success of his venture will seriously interfere with the proceeds of those who operate on land and will soon destroy the whales.</p><P>Capt. Clark is the owner of the <HI REND="italics">Ocean</HI>
026.sgm:.  He is a native of Connecticut, hails from New Haven.  His ship is 21 years old, the largest American whaler.  Ship and outfit stood him, when he sailed, in $68,000; he has already sent home $42,000's worth of oil.  He has been out near 30 months.  Has sent home in all 1200 barrels, 200 thereof being sperm.  He has been in this harbor five weeks; from 12 whales has taken 500 barrels, which are in the hold of the vessel, an advantage he has over the land-operators. Last season he made 800 barrels, from 25 whales, at Ascension Island; the season before, I believe, he was in the Arctic Ocean, as high as 82&deg;, did not get a gallon of oil, fastened to two whales, but a storm coming up forced him to let them go and he lost them.  The whales of this present ground are called California Grays, and Devil-fish too, for, says Capt. C., "they are the devil sometimes!"</p><P>He made the voyage in 17 days from the Sandwich Islands to San Francisco.  The best range now known for sperm is on the Lower California coast between latitudes 23&deg; and 28&deg;.  Magdalena Bay is about 24&deg;40'.</p><P>The ship's men cut up the whale from a staging alongside, on which the men stand with their spades, the whale being afloat.  The process requires hardly an hour.  This is a great saving of time and labor compared with the processes Of those On land, who bring the fish ashore at the flood, cut it, turn it over, and there it remains, an annoyance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:to them, until some tide may happen to carry it off to another point.  From the Ship, the carcass passes out with the tide to the sea.  I must confess the smell on the shore at Ballast Point was anything but pleasant.</p><P>The whales here are shot at with the bomb; all complain of the bad bombs this season, and say that two-thirds of those wounded are lost by the failure of the bomb. This missile costs $4 each.  The pursuit of the whale is not without danger.  On the 18th inst. a bomb did not burst after entering; the harpoon, however, gave a mortal blow; but, in its flurry, the whale struck the bow of the boat; here Mr. Stretch, third mate, was standing; literally cut it off, severely bruising him; on the 20th we found him pretty well, but still limping.  Capt. Clark says at that moment he should not have been so near the whale-should have pushed off.</p><P>There are now 60 vessels down the coast of Lower California.  Capt. C. thinks this cannot be a permanent business at San Diego; a large number of vessels will now come here and will soon use up the Whale.</p><P><HI REND="italics">La Frontera</HI>
026.sgm:, that part of Lower California between our boundary and -----, is now under the government of Feliciano R. de Esparza.  Don Juan Abila ironically speaks of him as the Governor of all Mexico.  He in turn suspects Don Juan as an enemy, and justly so, although Don Juan would retort upon him the title of assassin.  In San Diego he certainly has friends, and professes his gratitude to them, for sending him powder and ball when not long since he was about to be beseiged by Mendoza.</p><P>"But for this timely aid," he said to me the other night, "and the miracle of God, I would have been destroyed."</p><P>His present object is to obtain blankets and provisions for his men, in a movement against the Indians of Jacum and other neighborhoods (including some of San Ysabel).  The things required were sent to-day by the Sheriff on the faith of Esparza's promise to pay for them in mules and cattle which he has of "the Government." I find the Americans here to be in his favor.  Although they say little Or nothing on the subject, the Californians are against him, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:both here and in Los Angeles; and of this he plainly accuses Don Andr&eacute;s Pico, Don Jos&eacute; Sepulveda and others, and charges Don Jos&eacute; Matias Moreno to be the prime mover of the former expedition of Mendoza.  Don Jos&eacute; Matias is absent at San Francisco.  His sister, Do&ntilde;a Piedad, seemed to have a secret pleasure in telling me that, according to late intelligence from the Mexican Consul, 200 men would soon come from Mazatlan to displace Esparza.  Is this the work of Don Matias?  He is celebrated for intrigue and management, and, unless I am mistaken, has always had considerable influence in Mexico, although long a resident of San Diego.  In his day, poor Don Juan Bandini often felt this pestilent influence, to his heavy cost, mentally and pecuniarly.</p><P>Be this as it may, as to the force from Mexico--to which, as I understand him, he will promptly submit--he is determined to guard himself against his enemies hereabouts.  Besides this Indian rising, the latest report places Mendoza, with 25 men, at Los Pinos, whence he might easily cross the line; and as if he was not scare-crow enough, they now have with him Pedro Romo (once a Mexican Captain), Rube Leroy (a noted ruffian), and "who can be the Frenchman?" all inquire.  Probably, I would say, a retired commander of the Zouaves, again inspired with love of glory here in this land of lobos and chaparral.</p><P>"Then," says old Don Santiago, "why don't you issue an order to arrest Juanito Ramirez?  My servant has just seen him down at the Barenda with four others, watching, no doubt, to intercept Esparza."</p><P>A plague on this famous Juanito!  I recommended my venerable friend to go to the Clerk at Los Angeles and apply for a bench warrant.</p><P>Meanwhile Maj. Armistead, commander at New Town, with two waggons and twenty of the older soldiers, infantry, went down toward the boundary, giving much confidence to the Esparzanians, although I heard one jocosely remark that "these <HI REND="italics">Americanos</HI>
026.sgm: can never start without their coffee in the morning."  Maj. A.'s step has already had one effect, bad or good, <HI REND="italics">quien sabe</HI>
026.sgm:?  The bright-eyed Refugia <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:told me he was at the Punta, and I could not help thinking that this hastened her departure on Friday last for home; the Maj. is a widower.  Prager took down Maria Antonia; the handsome Lola gone too.</p><P>It is understood that, keeping our side of the line, Maj. A. will co-operate with Esparza, who will move on the other side from Tia-juana; thence they will pass through Tecate, toward the river Colorado, observing this alleged Indian Outbreak.  Esparza had but 12 men at Tia-juana, he ordered others from Descanso, where he had expected to unite about fifty.  This last number comprises all that can now be raised in La Frontera, and some Of them are mere boys, others are super-annuated.  In fact, there has been an extensive stampede from that section since the invasion of Mendoza, some to the lower settlements, others to our state.  For example, the whole Arguello family is here. Don Santiago is very old, and his coming does not surprise. But Luis, instead Of having a lance in his hand, has been telling me by what a miracle he escaped the assassins who were hunting him through the woods where he was hid. The same his brothers Ramon, Jos&eacute; Antonio and Ignacio, property-holders there, of one of the most respectable and influential families, and who ought to actively assist Esparza in preserving order.  They are not willing to expose their lives; they let this " <HI REND="italics">cholo</HI>
026.sgm: " beg blankets for the few who are faithful to him.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Cholo</HI>
026.sgm:!  So I hear Californians speak of him.  It is a word used in contempt and applied chiefly to those who are from Guadalajara.  His appearance answers to the word, at first glance, and he may be a native of that State.  But he does not deserve to be treated disparagingly, whatever opinion may be entertained as to the lawfulness, or expediency, of the principal act which excites so much indignation amongst the Californians.  The night of my arrival at San Diego, he came up from New Town and entered the hotel at a late hour, in company with a mutual friend, Don Jos&eacute; Maria Bandini.  I was introduced to him. A remark of some bystander led him into a narrative to which I listened until the end, taking more interest in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:man himself than in the detail of little events.  One could discover nothing of bragadocio about him.   He has an agreeable voice, natural, graceful gestures, black, sparkling eyes which seemed to soften, while the lip compressed itself slightly, when he Spoke of the death of twelve men by his order:</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Caramba</HI>
026.sgm:, yes, I know I compromised myself, and the whole country," he retired a few steps, drawing a light cloak over his shoulders, and pausing a moment, as if in thought, continued, "yes, it was a <HI REND="italics">compromiso de demonio!" </HI>
026.sgm: I confess, as he uttered this expression I concurred with him.  It was the very devil's deed, if he shed innocent blood, or if the necessities of that territory did not supersede law.</p><P>He described the little forts that protected him, all the people, women and children being gathered in one house; the approach of Mendoza with 380 men, Indians and all; the fire from two pieces of cannon upon the houses, thereby killing one Indian within and wounding two others; the terror of the women; cries of the children; his final desperate resolution, having only twenty in his force, to sally against the enemy.  He did not believe he would escape against such odds, but thought it was worth a trial of boldness for the sake of the families.  He sent 10 of the best men to come over the mountain behind, and make an attack on the flank, while he would march out in front, his band mostly were youths who went coolly, because "they did not know the danger."  A mistake seems to have been made, or they misunderstood his Orders, and the flanking party proved of no service to him.  The Esparzanians and Mendozinos continued to fire at each other; one effective shot he made, drove away the Indians; the rest continued to fire, wounding slightly a few of his companions; finding his ammunition nearly exhausted and coming now to the conclusion that, as they did not come down from the mountain and "eat him up" on this open ground (which but for their cowardice they might have done easily), they would hardly expose themselves by storming his forts, he led off his men in order to within their defences.  Mendoza <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:in a short time retreated, and straight out Of the country; the assailants disbanded in haste, Some making toward the river Colorado, others for Los Angeles.  It was afterward ascertained, that the Mendozinos, Seeing Esparza at the head of his "army," insisted that Mendoza should take the lead and they would follow.  But he told them that he ought to remain in the rear " <HI REND="italics">para disponer</HI>
026.sgm:."  Nobody being willing to lead in an attack, some started away in disgust, the rest in fear; and I believe Esparza was even able to collect several guns from this field of battle.  I think nobody was killed throughout, except the poor Indian mentioned above, who was within the house.</p><P>Such is the substance of his narrative, and after it was ended Don Jos&eacute; Maria could not restrain his pleasure, but applauded with his feet; the end left me with a degree of sympathy for him, as one who will certainly meet the fate of his lamented <HI REND="italics">compadre</HI>
026.sgm:, Don Jos&eacute; Castro.  In telling this, there was no violence; on the contrary, his accents were as soft as of "a lady's bed-chamber." He says:</p><P>"I have not had a good sleep for a year and a half, not from fear of my own life (because, <HI REND="italics">caramba</HI>
026.sgm:, I could take precautions for that), but in watching for the interests of others.  Mendoza meditates the plunder of every good citizen who has property; in fact, has already robbed to a large amount; none are safe in their dwellings, old men fleeing from the country, all in confusion, danger, Suffering."</p><P>According to him there are not twenty-five families in La Frontera.  At the time he ordered the twelve men to be killed, wherever they might be found, the number of the banditti congregated there, refugees chiefly from Our State, was very large; thirty others left, fearful of the same fate, but the twelve killed were the leaders, and the worst of that organized gang who menaced the lives and property of the peaceful inhabitants, who were already leaving in every direction, and still do not feel secure in returning. He issued the fatal order not for his own life, but for their safety.  This was after the assassination of Don Jos&eacute; Castro, by Manuel Marques, known to be one of the banditti.</p><P>Another evening late, I was sitting by the stove of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:hotel.  One came in and quietly took a seat a few feet distant.  I took him to be some young Californian of the city,but almost immediately recognized Esparza.  I took a chair by his side and entered into conversation.  He was very lucid in his statements, and perfectly frank and plain; no reserve whatever.</p><P>Don Jos&eacute; Castro, he considers, was the legitimate Governor of all Lower California; his authority having been rejected at La Paz, gave origin to the difficulties that have occurred there during the past year.  Esparza does not acknowledge the present government at La Paz. At his death Don Jos&eacute; was the lawful Governor of the whole Territory; under him, Esparza was <HI REND="italics">Comandante de las Armas</HI>
026.sgm:.  It being necessary to have civil functionaries, an election was held, and he was elected by the people <HI REND="italics">Gefe Politico of</HI>
026.sgm: La Frontera.  From the exigency of the case, then, the civil and military functions are united in his person.  Owing to the road being intercepted, he has had no communication with the Juarez administration since Castro's death, but considers himself subordinate to that administration.</p><P>In corroboration of him, Don Santiago Arguello gives the same account of the condition of the territory, and indulges in stronger denunciation of the assassins, as the Mendoza party are termed, and implicates equally Don Andres Pico and others.  It may be well to state that Solomon <HI REND="italics">Pico</HI>
026.sgm:, one Of those Esparza killed, was a nephew of Don Andres, a circumstance that gives currency to this charge against the uncle, perhaps more than any act or declaration by him.</p><P>Of the history of Esparza, anterior to these incidents, I know only that in 1854 he was a silversmith at San Diego. Unfortunate he must have been in his business here, for two years ago, he was in the employ of Don Bonifacio Lopez as a <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
026.sgm:.  He came to La Frontera from the county of San Luis Obispo in this state.  He spoke of one of the contending chieftains of La Paz as being with him in the same <HI REND="italics">colegio</HI>
026.sgm:, from which I infer that he has received an education, a moderate degree of which will often suffice to give a Mexican the leadership among these simple people. </p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Prager said he would be satisfied to spend the remainder of his days there.  Covered with fat cattle.  This rancho is now in the possession of Jack Hinton.  The title is still in the Marron family; will doubtless soon pass away from them.  Night was too near to stop, else I should certainly have done so, and would have done so anyhow if I had brought along the little volume of Maj. Ringgold's <HI REND="italics">Poems</HI>
026.sgm: which had been sent to Ensworth for Jack.  The "Fountain Rock"--I should like to know friend Hinton's plain mind in relation to it. "Thoughts of Heaven" struck my attention in a hasty glance at the volume.  Major Ringgold, the Paymaster and Poet!  Jack Hinton, the Sergeant of Buenavista!  One who knows them will ever prize their memory!</p><P>By the bye, for the first time, I think, I have mentioned A. S. Ensworth, Esq., of San Diego in these notes.  An early settler of Texas, who has many tales of its battles; a waggon-master at Camargo at the critical hour of the war; a good lawyer; full of common sense, and gentle feelings, and just principles; once a member of our Legislature, but lately beaten by a Single vote; an old bachelor withal, and much more that might make him long remain fresh in my recollection.  But I was just now thinking of his remark on the state of the country. "Disunion may come; I will not stay here to see it. have seen trouble, confusion, war enough--at my time of life I wish to see no more.  I will go to the Sandwich Islands, or elsewhere."</p><P>If such citizens as he is should all think thus, and if they should do thus, what fancy is vivid enough to portray the horrors they would leave behind them?</p><P>Coming in sight of Sylvester Marron's, now dark, a boy directed us to Coutts'; presently two vaqueros driving horses in that direction offered to guide us.  Passing Jesus Machado's over a good but out-of-the-way five miles, we were safely conducted to the "haven of rest."  It was cold; Chauncey by this time was cold and sleepy; I persuaded him to eat his supper, and then had to go to bed with him. Every little thing in our lives we can interpret, if we will, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:providentially.  As I learned from Prager, I thus escaped a disagreeable conversation about politics, in which Douglass came in for a share of Scott's severe animadversion. In fact, Prager had against him the three, Scott, Rains, and Coutts, all of whom were "Breckenridge men."  I should have had to throw in a word, as I voted for Douglass, both on the ground that he seemed to me to be the real nominee of the National Democratic Convention, and because his doctrine as to slavery in the Territories appeared to be the most practical way of settling forever this vexed question; so much for my vote.  But, in the present aspect of our public affairs, his doctrine should be of minor importance to that which shall be capable of preserving the integrity of the Confederacy, under some Constitution if the present be inadequate.</p><P>23d: Mrs. C. puts up some bread and meat for Chauncey. Clouds look like rain.  Here Rains and Scott leave us for Temecula and Chino, Scott designing to take the Overland Mail at the latter point, which is a station.  <HI REND="italics">Adios</HI>
026.sgm: to our pleasant companions, <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
026.sgm: to the family.  I must not forget her message to Dr. Welch, a supposed lover of Chata, "Tell him, he has lost <HI REND="italics">una fea</HI>
026.sgm: now I will find <HI REND="italics">una hermosa</HI>
026.sgm: for him."  <HI REND="italics">Caramba</HI>
026.sgm:! as Esparza Says, I did forget to deliver his message to the fair young Ysabel.  Never give me messages, or letters, nowadays, and still, here's another, from Don Jesus Moreno of San Luis Rey to his Republican friends of Los Angeles!  He wants me to say that the Indians of this quarter need a good agent, and he is the very man.  We stopped long enough for him to say this, salute his family (including a very pretty daughter, <HI REND="italics">soltera</HI>
026.sgm: ), and have a brief chat with Do&ntilde;a Madalena and her spouse, little Jos&eacute; Ant&oacute;nio Pico, or Antonito, or as some say, Picito. Both he and Moreno keep little stores here, though when the weather is not cold, Picito and wife return to their house on the rancho of Santa Margarita.  This reminds me of the Spanish verses Jesus Guirado--with a profane levity (though the temptation was great, I admit)--once wrote, by request, of the solemn and pious Picito, "<LB><HI REND="italics">Las Alabansas</HI>
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026.sgm:<HI REND="italics">de San Antonio." </HI>
026.sgm: Jesus was never forgiven for it; even now Picito will lengthen his face when they are alluded to.  Do&ntilde;a Madalena, good little woman, was as lively as ever; she is a New Mexican; Picito says "they make the best of wives."  I promised him to try one. As we approach close to the Mission, San Bernardino and San Jacinto are in full sight again.  The Surf roars on the beach at the mouth of the valley.  The crumbling edifice itself looks as if ere long Nature will here resume her primeval sway.  Seeing the water of San Luis and Santa Margarita now, one regrets that they do not run thus through the year.  What a paradise there might be!<HSEP>Beautiful pasturage everywhere on Santa Margarita and Las Flores; on the latter there may be 2000 cattle today. Some person has killed a California lion and hung him up on a tree by the road.  As we pass the mouth of San Mateo, Chauncey and I take to the sand to gather shells, in which we succeed, to his infinite pleasure.  The sand is too heavy for him and he takes to the buggy, only to make me run about picking up the arrows he shoots here and there from his new bow which an Indian boy of Guajomito made for him.  The tide is very low; an easy ride along the edge of the surf that rolls in here gently, and excites Chauncey's admiration.  He wants to know the cause of the green as the wave rises, and the white as it breaks over to fall upon the beach.  Explained; he is silent; does he yet understand? Full as much as <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
026.sgm: can say of any of the phenomena of the universe.</p><P>Knowing that Don Juan Forster is at San Francisco, we conclude to stop at the house of Don Juan Abila.  He meets us on the porch, no doubt anticipating this purpose, for he could see us at a considerable distance.  Find Don Juan in trouble again.  He has bought a piece of land with squatters on it, although the lines have been surveyed and turn out to be in exact conformity with the grant.</p><P>Presenting me to his daughters, with the inquiry if they do not know me, Do&ntilde;a Guadalupe replies sweetly:  " <HI REND="italics">como</HI>
026.sgm: no?" as I take her hand. Rosa does the honors of the table.  As we take our seats, news is brought that Don <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Francisco Gastellun is dead.  They commonly call him the Sargento Gastellun, an old soldier of Lower California. He has long been sick with asthma; the troubles in La Frontera have made him a traveller, I might Say an exile, in his old age, and at an unfavorable season for his infirmity. He died at Mr. Forster's house at sunset, just as we entered the town.  The bell then tolled, but the family thought it was for the <HI REND="italics">oracion</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>No hay in the whole place.  Bad news for the horses.</p><P>No fire in our room; we went to bed at 8 to keep warm.</p><P>24th: San Juan looks as it always did, with very little business, but it is a pretty little valley.  The garden of the Mission turned out well; great abundance of pears, and I can praise the olives, having some of them at Coutts'.  Chauncey made his supper on frijoles--Don Juan said "Yes, he is a little Californian."</p><P>At 8 A.M. Don Juan made his appearance.  Chauncey pleases the Indian servants by shooting at his hat, and skillfully shoots mine off the railing.  Take acknowledgment of the deed to a house, to the great convenience of the parties, who would otherwise have had to go 60 miles to Los Angeles.  No Justices of the Peace here-happy people!  Don Juan asked Chauncey what he would have to take along for lunch; he replied, " <HI REND="italics">muchas tortillas</HI>
026.sgm:."  Rosa smiled and folded up half a dozen.  Guadalupe was particularly gracious! now I could see she was the Nymfa of a former brief visit to this verandah, though, when I inquired where Nymfa lived, she replied " <HI REND="italics">lejos</HI>
026.sgm:."  Still we had to wait half an hour for Don Juan's letter. The ruined church of San Juan is the last picture as the road emerges from the town, followed at once by a view of Mt. San Bernardino, on whose snowy heights might be thought to dwell the Guardian Genius of the land, with all-seeing vigilance observing every corner and cranny of his realms. From here to Los Angeles we do not lose sight of it.</p><P>A mile from town, a plain road led up six miles up the valley of Trabuco, straight for the sierra of Santiago. What a blunder!  I know it, or ought to have known, yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:, Jan. 26, 1861.</p><P>Jos&eacute; Matias Moreno, the present acting Governor of Lower California, was arrested at San Diego on the 19th day of June, by the U. S. Marshal, upon a charge of violating the U. S. neutrality laws during the late difficulties in California between Don Feliciano Esparza and Don Juan Mendoza.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
026.sgm:, June 22, 1861. The report recently circulated that Gov. Moreno of Lower California has favored and been instrumental in pillaging and stealing from the ranchers, is wholly without foundation.  He is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:very popular with the masses here, and in his own territory; and has always assisted, to the utmost extent of his power, persons from this side of the line to recover their property, or animals, which may have been stolen or strayed into that country.</p><P>San Diego correspondent <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
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026.sgm:, granted by him.</p><P>The following were granted by Feliciano Ruiz de Esparza:</p><P>2 Leagues-To Martinez and Espinosa.  On river Colorado. 4 Leagues-To Padre Henry Alric.  Same. 2 Leagues-To Francisco Rivera.  Same. 2 Leagues-To Jos&eacute; M. Castro.  Same. 4 Leagues--To Geronimo Laurel and Jos&eacute; M. Rodriguez. Arrastradero. 1 League--To Juan Manuel Silva.  San Vincente. 1 League--To Manuel Valencia.  San Vincente.</p><P>Also <HI REND="italics">suertes</HI>
026.sgm:, the number of which is unknown.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VII<LB>THE JOURNEY OF LIFE</HEAD>
026.sgm:<P>January 25, 1861, Los Angeles: I betake myself to the Express and Post Office, and soon am immersed in newspapers.  The news still looks favorable for the Union, by a compromise.  But can there be a compromise now?</p><P>I have finished an examination of most of the papers of this State.  Out of San Francisco, several are decidedly in favor of a <HI REND="italics">Pacific Republic</HI>
026.sgm:.  I have collected these expressions of opinion, On a subject which it astonishes me to find myself even thinking of, for the purpose of arranging them, together with the discussions, etc., of the late Presidential Election, in a book entitled " <HI REND="italics">The Union, 1860</HI>
026.sgm:."  Of course, not for publication but for future reference.  What a momentous theme for study and reflection!  One should carefully read Thucydides in these times.  And look at Italy, at the present hour, with its projects for consolidation, or union!</p><P>In the present dangers, and the calamities but dimly seen in the future, one hardly remembers the pecuniary necessities that surround him, or heeds the anxious countenances of his fellow-citizens, harassed by the general depression of trade and business in this city, indeed throughout this section of the State.</p><P>Saturday, Jan. 26th: The Overland Mail from the east arrived to-day, bringing the <HI REND="italics">Missouri Republican</HI>
026.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">St. Louis Democrat</HI>
026.sgm: of the 7th inst., with dates from Washington City of the 5th inst. The Republican members of Congress seem to reject all terms of compromise.  Missouri, like most of the other southern states, is preparing to follow South Carolina. Several of the U. S. forts are already in possession of the secessionists; in the northern states the militia are being organized and are tendered to the Federal Government; nor does it appear to me merely an idle rumor that the Capital will be taken by the Secession States prior to the 4th day of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:March next.  I can with difficulty drive from my mind the thought that in a few days more, we shall be plunged into the horrors of a fratricidal war.  What will another day bring forth?</p><P>Men here are calculating the chances of the result.  Will the President issue a proclamation, and resort to force?  Or will the secession be accomplished peaceably?  Mr. John Kearny came in tonight, and when I spoke of the subject, inquired--will dissolution <HI REND="italics">seriously affect trade</HI>
026.sgm:? A Republican friend feels easy in the belief that Lincoln will be able "to put down the South."  I expressed to him my doubt, if Lincoln could be inaugurated at all, with the feeling indicated by the late proceedings in Virginia and Maryland, except after a bloody conflict at the doors of the Capital.  They deceive themselves who suppose that California could stand aloof from the contest.  A firebrand of the flimsiest material might soon enkindle a blaze that would sweep the State.  See the incident at Stockton. How insignificant does it appear.  I believe it is indicative of a fire that is smouldering in our midst, and may soon burst into a general conflagration.</p><P>Visit from Do&ntilde;a Francisca ----- and Do&ntilde;a -----.  The latter had a suit for divorce at the last Los Angeles term; comes to see if she is to be allowed alimony; both her attorneys have gone to San Francisco.  Do&ntilde;a Francisca seems to take a great interest in the matter.  This disposed of, it occurred to me to make a few inquiries of her, in a friendly way; which led to the narrative of her own married troubles.  She is from Catalonia, Spain; came here, one of five Sisters of Charity who established that institution in this city.  Evidently she is, to some extent, mentally deranged.  How it originated I cannot ascertain as yet; must endeavor to do so.  This was the more clearly evinced when I led the conversation to Religion.  Soon after her arrival, she left the Sisters, then married a man named M----.  She is sensible enough on other topics, until Religion is mentioned.</p><P>Sunday, 27th: Like Friday and Saturday, a beautiful day--milder <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:and warmer. Chauncey brings Mary, Fred, Russell, Refugia, and Jesus; I spend the afternoon with them on the hills, I in rather a contemplative mood, they playing about, digging up <HI REND="italics">cacomitas</HI>
026.sgm:, etc.  Met many acquaintances on the promenade, some Seated on the brow of Fort Hill chatting in view of the city, others visiting the grave-yard, etc.</p><P>28th: Chauncey and I went to the hill this morning, the walk refreshing.  Another warm, clear day.  Don Casildo Aguilar calls.  A man of the city was out yesterday shoOting birds, and set fire to the woods, burning up some 8 acres before Don C. could with his servants put a stop to its progress.  He calls upon me to "issue an order that the man shall settle with him for the damage."He was surprised to learn that he would be the loser in the end, if the culprit should have no property wherewith to pay, and left me, no doubt disgusted with our system of laws.</p><P>Mrs. C. is a native of Chili, wife of one of our landlords.  Came in to see me a few moments this evening. I never knew before why the Californian women dislike to sit in chairs, or I never thought of it.  She says they prefer to sit, eat, etc., on the floor because they rest better; she would prefer the floor to the best chair in the world.</p><P>The Overland Mail from the East has arrived to-night, with dates of 10th inst. from St. Louis.  The Overland from San Francisco was telegraphed passing the Tejon at 7 A.M. to-day and will be in about midnight.</p><P>31st: Walk on the hills this afternoon; breeze gentle and pleasant.  To-day a row of pepper trees set out in front of the stores, etc., of Temple on Main Street, those commencing opposite Commercial Street.  William Gilky, who came down on the last steamer, introduces himself to me. He has been an invalid for 14 months, abscess in the side. Nephew of Rice Davenport, of Clay Co., Mo.  Gives me information of Brassfield and others who came to California in 1849.  All now back in Missouri, except himself, all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:were prosperous here, and are rich at home, the young men with wives, the widowers married again, etc.  Drury Melone has succeeded well, is now at Sacramento.</p><P>The depression in business, and want of money, is severely felt in this city, the necessities of some of the people very great.</p><P>OVERLAND MAIL, 1859</p><P>From Los Angeles to Monte<HSEP>13 mi. Thence<HSEP>San Jos&eacute;<HSEP>12 "<HSEP>" Rancho del Chino<HSEP>12 "<HSEP>" Temascal<HSEP>20 "<HSEP>" Laguna Grande<HSEP>10 "<HSEP>" Temecula<HSEP>21 "<HSEP>" Tejungo<HSEP>14 "<HSEP>" Oak Grove<HSEP>12 "<HSEP>" Warner's Ranch<HSEP>10 "<HSEP>" San Felipe<HSEP>10 "<HSEP>" Vallecito<HSEP>18 "<HSEP>" Palm Springs<HSEP>9 "<HSEP>" Carisso Creek<HSEP>9 "<HSEP>" Indian Wells<HSEP>32 "<HSEP>" Alamo Mucho<HSEP>38 "<HSEP>" Cook's Wells<HSEP>22 "<HSEP>" Pilot Knob<HSEP>18 "<HSEP>" Ft. Yuma<HSEP>10 Distance, 280 miles; time, 72 h. 20 m.</p><P>JUDGE HAYES TO HON. ED. M. SAMUEL</p><P>City of Los Angeles, Feb. 11, 1861.</p><P>My dear friend: By the Overland Stage arriving here on the 8th inst., I received your valued favor of the 12th ult., the same mail brought us news <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
026.sgm: the 20th ult. from New York.</p><P>I have attentively watched our progress since the telegraphic wires, on the night of November sixth, announced to the South the result of the Presidential Election.  Long ago my opinion became settled, as to the immediate effect of that fatal turn in the popular mind of the North.</p><P>And now we are in the midst of a Revolution!</p><P>To-night the French Consul of this city and myself happened to interchange views; and, by chance, as it were, the expression escaped my lips:  "Never was there a revolution for juster cause.   He blames the North rather than the South, but simply remarked, "It is a great question."  Both agreed that <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
026.sgm: would be the man for the hour who should rise in the National Assembly and make acceptable and rational and just plan under which the two sections, that are so radically discordant In their principles as to the disposition to be made of Slavery, could peacefully dissolve their present unnatural connexion.  Our prominent statesmen are wasting time and intellect in fruitless effort for what they call adjustment or compromise, their respective partizans apparently hugging the delusion that each will fall heir to the envied title of honor which History has assigned alone to the Great Pacificator.  Meanwhile, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:they but give opportunity for passion, on one side, and pride of anticipated power and patronage, on the other, to hasten a Civil War the like whereof is not upon record.</p><P>Such briefly is the view I am inclined to take of the national exigency. Idle is it for me to explain wherein I may have surmised mistakes in either party, or expatiate discriminatingly upon their mutual complaints during so long a period.  The North I consider to be wrong on <HI REND="italics">the vital issue</HI>
026.sgm:, and the South is right, I think.  And still, like yourself, I am for the Union.  I concur with the excellent old Consul of France, that we may be able to reconstruct such a Union as shall preserve liberty to the latest posterity. . . .</p><P>In California moderation prevails at present.  Do not suppose there is an indifference to the circumstances that surround you.  Business is depressed, never before so much so; money is almost impossible to obtain; men, therefore, are deeply engrossed in their personal difficulties, but not to the exclusion of public affairs.  In this vicinity the impending danger is spoken of by everybody, without warm discussion; in fact, as if by a general understanding, irritating points of controversy are avoided, or gently "turned off" in conversation, and the Press meets the crisis with dignity and "words of soberness."  Many others no doubt think as I do.  I have no hope from Congress.  I am ready for any disaster.  We "go about our business," manifesting not the slightest apprehension, for ourselves. Yet we look every moment for the commencement of hostilities.  None, I suppose, would be surprised to learn to-morrow or the next day that Fort Sumter had been stormed-or that the Capital had been taken!</p><P>We have not had experience of the meaning of Civil War.  What we should think, if those two events should be announced, and what we <HI REND="italics">should do</HI>
026.sgm:, I have not the heart to bring within the range of profitless conjecture.  California possesses an energetic, hardy, brave population, none more highly endowed with these qualities on the face of the earth. What might be their deeds, in a fratricidal war, whether for good or evil, is a subject I would not dwell upon.  May Heaven avert it!</p><P>All along until recently men have seemed to agree, that California should keep aloof from this contest, and devote herself in quiet--remote as she is from this theatre of warring interests--to the steady advancement of her own domestic prosperity.  The hope has been entertained that she might prove a successful mediator.  But does the attitude of parties portend such thing to the cause of "peace and good-will?". . . .</p><P>It is the same in this state as everywhere else, parties retaining their fixed lines of demarcation, Breckinridge, Lincoln, Northern, Southern.  The Legislature is occupied with resolutions and harangues, varied by strategic manoeuvres to gain an extinct office, that of United States Senator.  The mass of the people probably care little for the opinion of the Legislature or for its action; each citizen day after day preparing himself for a struggle (its nature as yet dimly seen), according to his predilections.  In a final collision, the Southern influence, direct and indirect, is likely to be predominant.  In numbers the parties are about equal, as they bid fair to be arrayed.</p><P>Who can foretell the fortune of our noble State?  Must she fall to the North?  Will she go to the South?  Shall she stand up proudly-- <HI REND="italics">the Pacific Republic</HI>
026.sgm:?  These things are under general and serious consideration, and, if the Confederacy shall be completely disrupted, will become of absorbing importance.  One way or another, the feeling of our intelligent and enterprising population will soon develop itself.  I have resided here since the commencement of her Government, and have studied somewhat her resources and her policy during the last ten years; and I believe a splendid prosperity might be achieved by her, if, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:indeed, she must seek it (in the language of one of her Senators), "through an existence of mournful solitude."  I will not stoP to calculate what good company she might easily bring around her in the shape of Oregon and Utah, Arizona and Sonora, and the "isles of the sea."  I am sick at heart in an attempt to look far into the future, when the eye first must glance over the broken pillars of the Union.</p><P>Come what may, if California shall succeed in maintaining moderation and order, and so I believe, how cheerfully I will invite you to make your home beneath our bright skies; doubtless many of my friends would accompany you, seeking rest from the thankless toil of politics, and a degree of quiet beyond the rage of social dissensions. A few weeks only, we shall know our destiny.  Myself born and educated on Southern soil, I observe with intense solicitude the course of Maryland,--my mother!--and hardly with less interest, of Missouri, where my early manhood first met a kindly encouragement.  I am ever plain-spoken.  If they secede, I am not the one who will have the ungrateful daring to impeach their patriotism, or suspect their righteousness.  But my lot has been cast on the shores of the Pacific.  Its placid waters, as I saw them to-day, are an image of the tranquillity I would have spreading over the face of society here, and throughout our beloved land. . . .</p><P>As to mere news, I send you some scraps indicative of the position of those who voted for Mr. Breckenridge at the last election; significant of more than that, I might mention, that the <HI REND="italics">Bear Flag</HI>
026.sgm: was raised at Stockton, on the 16th ult., on the mast of a little sloop, by a gentleman I never heard of before; it was soon taken down, say the papers; some laughed at the circumstance; others were content to rebuke it with words; several raised the national ensign over their houses. Trivial as the fact is in itself, you will be apt, in a thoughtful mood, to infer much that did not meet the eye on the spur of the moment.  I do not like the course of the Republican Press in the upper part of the State.  On the 4th inst., one of their organs "warned" their friends to "keep up their <HI REND="italics">armed organization"</HI>
026.sgm:; evidently having reference to the vigilance Committee. Imagine, if you can, the consequences of an attempt to use the vengeance of that body in a quarrel arising purely out of politics.  I am in earnest, when I say that the first blow of the kind would rouse 30,000 men in arms as quick as the wires could convey the intelligence.  So we go, step by step.  On this occasion the prudence seems to be rather with the Southern Press, "fire-eating" as it is called here, nor always in a joke.  As the latest rumor, we learn from the Republican Press--and they seriously vouch for the fact--that in several counties military companies are being formed, looking to a separation of this State.  I am inclined to credit them, as to the fact of the formation of the companies; as to the rest, I can find out nothing definite or reliable.  As to the Republicans of my acquaintance, many of them talk of the Union about as Senator Hale has been charged with saying:  "Let it slide!" They seem to give in to a dissolution as a necessity, it being impossible for them to surrender the principle upon which their existence depends. . . .</p><P>P.S.  As I closed my letter and sought the open air, a starry night, how I wished I could hear a full band strike up the Star-Spangled Banner!  My own State gave it to the Nation.  Tell your youngest grand-daughter to sing it for you, and so may it inspirit each coming generation.  Some instinct made me wish for the grand melody.  I still remember its glowing effect upon me, when one day six years ago I heard it, from Mistka Haustka, on the open square of San Francisco, in the presence <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
026.sgm: many thousand people.  I still remember with what joy it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:touched me, when, the weary wilderness ended, it shone again before us, "so gallantly streaming" over the quiet hamlet of Vegas.  My own boy shall grow up to cherish the song and love the flag.</p><P>JUDGE HAYES TO HIS SISTER EMMA Los Angeles, Feb. 14, 1861.</p><P>I wish Jeff<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm: to remember that, even with Overland and Pony and Telegraph, and what newspapers reach us by ocean lines, we are often greatly "behind the times" in necessary information to form a correct opinion of the most important transactions, as they are progressing.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">Gen. M. Jefferson Thompson, C. S. A., husband of the sister to whom the letter is addressed.--Editor.</NOTE>
026.sgm:<illus entity="a026-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN Jos&eacute; DE ABAJO RANCH HOUSE <HI REND="italics">The home of  Don Ricardo Vejar and polling place of San Jos&eacute; precinct.  It stood near the Louis Phillips mansion at Spadra.  Copyright by C. C. Pierce.</HI>
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026.sgm:<P>Divine Providence.  If all shall remain of my disposition, the storm of War will be long away from our own loved homes of California.  Till it does come, if come it must (which I do not believe), let us be patient.</p><P>JUDGE JOHN BROWN TO JUDGE HAYES San Bernardino, July 6th, 1861.</p><P>My good friend: I fear there will be trouble in this place <HI REND="italics">soon</HI>
026.sgm:.  I have been informed that private secession meetings are held in this city almost every night; there is one to-night, and I was advised this evening to keep my gun in good order, as I would be compelled to use it in less than a week. In the mines, I am informed, there are secret meetings held almost every night.  The parties at the head of this are from the upper country. I would send all my children to the Sisters, but the road and other matters have exhausted my means.  Let me know how things stand in Los Angeles.  Do you think the troops there could do any thing for us, in case of trouble?  There are a great many good law and order men here, but they have no commander or leader.</p><P>JUDGE HAYES TO JUDGE JOHN BROWN Los Angeles, Aug. 8, 1861.</p><P>My dear friend: Yours of the 6th last. has been received just now.  I hardly think there can be any danger in any <HI REND="italics">secret meetings</HI>
026.sgm:, such as you refer to. Very probably, they relate altogether to the coming election; perhaps are merely Breckenridge meetings, for that purpose; these would necessarily be secret, in order to escape the imputation of Secession.  All parties often hold these secret conclaves, the better to make their arrangements, without the knowledge of their opponents.  I entertain not the least apprehension of any disturbance in this District.  It will be well for us not to be too suspicious of each other.  There is no such suspicion in this county.  I do beg you not to suffer yourself to be drawn Into any thing, unless some <HI REND="italics">overt</HI>
026.sgm: act be committed against your rights.  we must look for violent expressions, or even demonstrations, occasionally In these evil times.  Moderation and forbearance will be necessary.  Be cool and fearless.</p><P>I confess that some months ago I was more uneasy about things In this section of the State.  This made me anxious for you and your family.  I watched every movement closely; at length I became fully satisfied that the danger was past.  Nevertheless, I have observed attentively the progress of affairs since, and still keep my eye upon every transaction of parties, to be ready at a moment's notice to aid in the preservation of Public Order.  You remember how frequently I spoke of this in my letters.</p><P>Again I beg you not to heed too much the fears of your neighbors. I have every confidence in the ability of the civil authorities to maintain order, and the firm execution of the laws of the State, even in this day of unusual political discord.</p><P>JUDGE JOHN BROWN TO JUDGE HAYES San Bernardino, Aug. 21, 1861.</p><P>There seems to have been some sort of a scheme on foot here; but the news of troops coming has rather lulled the thing to sleep. At present there Is not so much excitement, though it is rumored that on the election day something will be done.  Horse stealing is still continued.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>JUDGE JOHN BROWN TO JUDGE HAYES August 30th, 1861.</p><P>The troops seem to revive things a little.  Few at this time know who to vote for.  I never saw such confusion in my life.  To-day they seem to be going for one and to-morrow for another.</p><P>Your kind advice is highly appreciated by me.  I shall be guided by it.  Your views in relation to present difficulties are correct.  The secret meetings held in this county are more of a political move than anything else, although some think not. However, time will tell.</p><P>JUDGE HAYES TO JUDGE JOHN BROWN Los Angeles, Sept. 1st, 1861.</p><P>People must talk to you a great deal about the election.  I hear much of it here, and avoid it as much as is possible.  The popular will should rule, even in times of the greatest discord and confusion.  My own private opinion is that Mr. Stanford will be elected Governor.</p><P>I learn that troops went up yesterday in the direction of San Bernardino.  I hope that there will be no difficulty in that county, either during or after the election.</p><P>In case the worst news I anticipate should arrive, let us in California remain cool and firm, determined to guard the public order in every neighborhood; absolutely reject the trifling and idle rumors which the malicious invent and the timid carelessly repeat; let us see if it be not possible for men, who happen to differ with each other in politics, to have more confidence in each other personally, and to cultivate better the social relations (as they were wont to exist among us), instead of indulging in the distrust and suspicion which, I have noticed, within the past few months have begun to steal over most of our population.</p><P>Let us have perfect "freedom of opinion," but accompanied by forbearance, respect and moderation on all sides, such as heretofore prevailed.  I should soon get tired of mingling in society, if I were to adopt the notion that every man is a <HI REND="italics">rascal</HI>
026.sgm: or a <HI REND="italics">traitor</HI>
026.sgm: who did not choose to adopt as gospel some theory agreeable to me.  No, we must have no war, engendered from reckless passions, or mistaken zeal, in this State, to desolate our chosen homes.</p><P>JUDGE HAYES TO JUDGE BROWN City of Los Angeles, Sept. 15th, 1861.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
026.sgm: of yesterday gives a gloomy picture of San Bernardino county.  Can all this be true?  I hope you will write me fully, what is the state of facts in Holcombe Valley or elsewhere.</p><P>If crimes have been committed there, houses broken open, stores robbed, and personal violence, such as is described in the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
026.sgm:, and such as I have heard from Mr. Nichols and Mr. Jackson, it is high time that the authorities had intervened for the protection of the citizen.</p><P>It seems to me, that the County Judge, Judge Boren, might examine one or more witnesses in regard to these matters, issue a warrant, and let the Sheriff enforce an arrest with the whole power of the county, in aid of the citizens and the civil authorities  there is no doubt that the Commanding Officer would consent that a portion of the U. S. troops should act as a posse.  It appears to me almost impossible, that there can be a party in San Bernardino strong enough to prevent an arrest in a suitable case, or to seriously impede the enforcement of the laws, provided we proceed to enforce them in the right manner.</p><P>It seems that these men call themselves "Secessionists."  Whatever may be said in the newspapers, I am confident that in Los Angeles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:County, as well as in San Diego, there is no organization whatsoever contemplating "Secession."  All is perfectly quiet, now that the election is over.  And so I had supposed it would be at San Bernardino.</p><P>I have to go back to San Diego on the 7th of October, to try Anderson for killing an Indian woman.  I could not wait there 10 days for witnesses and a jury.  I therefore concluded to come home, and go back at that time, an additional expense and labor, but unavoidable.</p><P>As an illustration of the administration of justice in California, I may mention that at the late election in San Diego, Anderson himself -a prisoner-was Clerk of the election!  Very kind in him, was it not? But I have determined to try him; my whole duty discharged, I will have no more to say.</p><P>I confess I feel some anxiety about these reports from Holcombe Valley.  I wish to know exactly what is going on there.  What are the Mormons doing?  The men who are represented to have had the difficulty with Capt. Davidson, were they Mormons, or who were they?</p><P>JUDGE HAYES TO JUDGE JOHN BROWN Los Angeles, Sept. 17, 1861.</p><P>I am glad to find that these reports are without foundation; their circulation has injured our section very much.  So important did I deem it to have a correction made, that I copied so much of it for the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
026.sgm: as would tend to show that your county is quiet.</p><P>Here all is tranquil.  There is not the slightest danger of any disorder, arising out of politics.</p><P>Chauncey last night and to-night is with his cousin Fred, on the hill.</p><P>JUDGE HAYES TO JUDGE JOHN BROWN City of Los Angeles, Sept. 22, 1861.</p><P>Some 600 of the California Volunteers arrived here this past week and are encamped at the Cienega, six miles below this city; a fine-looking set of men.  More are to arrive within a short time.  It seems to puzzle the ingenuity of men, to tell what is their destination.</p><P>It has occurred to me to put you upon your guard as to reports that go from here; they doubtless go to San Bernardino, as they are circulated from here.  For instance, it is <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
026.sgm: true</p><P>1.  That the bohunkers committed any violence at San Pedro.</p><P>2.  That Mr. Brent was arrested at San Francisco.</p><P>3.  That letters in the post-office here are opened and examined.</p><P>The last report that we had here was that <HI REND="italics">women</HI>
026.sgm: had gone from Holcombe Valley to capture the commands of Lts. Foster and McKee, who lately started from here to Fort Yuma.  It seems to me a very ridiculous report.</p><P>JUDGE JOHN BROWN TO JUDGE HAYES San Bernardino, Nov. 22, 1861.</p><P>The only item of news here is that a robbery of some kind is committed almost every night.  Stores are broken open, hencoops are robbed, beehives carried off, smashed to pieces, and contents taken away, even the duck ponds are made destitute of the little swimmers.</p><P>There have been two murders here since you left, one an Indian and the other a Mexican.  Ben Mathews killed the Indian, the old Mexican was killed by an Indian in the most brutal manner I ever heard of. The authorities take no notice of these matters!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>On Sept. 21, 1861, the correspondent in San Diego of the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
026.sgm: said:</p><P>At the late term of the District Court, Hon. Benjamin Hayes Judge. all the civil business was continued except Soto v. Houch &amp; Sexton, in which a judgment of foreclosure was rendered.  Adjourned term is to be held on Oct. 7 for the trial of J. Anderson (a white) Indicted for manslaughter, killing an Indian woman of the village of San Pascual.</p><P>At the same time another Court was being held by the Indian Captains of Pala, near San Luis Rey, who had a knotty case before them, that of a youth who had killed another last August at the feast of San Luis Rey, in a general drunken row between the San Luise&ntilde;os and Diegui&ntilde;os. The evidence consisted merely of the "dying declaration" of the deceased.  The Indian judges were proceeding very discreetly and deliberately with the case. We have not heard the result, nor whether the civil authorities have interfered.</p><P>The Indians of San Pascual say if Anderson should be acquitted they will not suffer him to return to live at their village. In the other case, one feature is perhaps unfortunate in that the alleged culprit is a Diegui&ntilde;o, whilst his triers are of the rival tribe of San Luise&ntilde;os. we hope it will not end in a "civil war." Why is there not <HI REND="italics">a suitable</HI>
026.sgm: Agent for these Indians?  We have reason to know that they very much miss the parental care and authority of Col. Kendrick, their late efficient Agent.</p><P>On October 12 the same column stated:</p><P>We have before alluded to the Indian trial going on at Pala, among the San Luise&ntilde;os.  The result was a sentence of death upon the culprit.  Hearing of this the Diegui&ntilde;os, to whom he belonged, sent a cartil demanding his surrender to them. Three days were then allowed the San Luise&ntilde;os to comply.  Before the expiration of that time, a friend informs us he met a band of about fifty Diegui&ntilde;os, with fife and drum, bearing off the prisoner to their own village. What they will do to him is left to conjecture.</p><P>In and around this village (San Pascual) are now living some twenty white vagabonds, selling liquor to and preying upon these Indians. A proper Agent should be appointed for them, to manage their affairs and protect them, or the military commander should take them in charge. To us it seems very unsafe to leave this "case of life or death" in the hands of these untutored Indians. They should be brought more completely under the control of the civil authorities.  It is not long since the Sheriff of San Diego county had to interfere, to prevent several Indians from being hung for witchcraft.</p><P>Sunday, December 22d: Judge Brown and his son, Joseph, arrived last night from San Bernardino. to Camp Latham, in a buggy.  Accompany him to-day on a visit to Camp Latham, in a buggy.  A delightful day, and a very pleasant stay of three hours at this picturesque encampment.  Made the acquaintance of Col. West, Surgeon McNulty, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Adjutant Cutler; the latter was an officer under Gen. Albert S. Johnston at Camp Floyd.  He is suffering with rheumatism, taken during that campaign.  Col. West is from Fort Yuma, where he has been in command.  He tells me that he has completely fortified that point. Lunched with them and Lieut. Hammond, acting Quartermaster, brother of an old friend, Lt. Tom Hammond, who was killed at San Pascual. He shewed me the results of target shooting by the men at 150 yards, fine shooting. Col. Carleton, in command here, was up to his eyes in business but very attentive to us.</p><P>I went there merely to give an introduction of my friend, Judge Brown, to Col. Carleton, with whom he had some business in reference to the "Beef Contract" of the camp near San Bernardino City.  And this reminds me of an observation of the Colonel's, that some men, <HI REND="italics">reputed</HI>
026.sgm: Secessionists, were better friends of the Government than the <HI REND="italics">reputed</HI>
026.sgm: Unionists, for the former would sell their hay at $10 the ton, whilst the latter had combined to buy it all up, and demanded $22, but he had disappointed them, by refusing point blank to take it all, thus leaving it upon their hands.  A good idea, I thought, and I commend him for it.</p><P>About sunset, we reached the City again.</p><P>Jan. 9th, 1862: Chauncey is full of the project of going to school, and I have made the necessary arrangements.  He wants his saddle made immediately, and the pony brought which Don Jesus Guirardo has promised him.</p><P>A rainstorm still threatens. Mr. Abel Stearns says that this late one has been the heaviest we have had for the past twenty-five years.</p><P>Jan. 10th: Jonathan R. Scott, Esq., one of our leading attorneys, informs me that on the 8th inst., an officer and twenty men appeared at the rancho of Coco-Mango, San Bernardino county, for the purpose of <HI REND="italics">arresting</HI>
026.sgm: John Rains, Esq., the proprietor. This gentleman happening at the time to be on a visit at Los Angeles City with his family, an express <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:was sent here to Col. Carleton for instructions.  Col. C. ordered the detachment to return to their post.</p><P>One of the immediate effects of this proceeding is, that Mr. Rains dislikes to return to his rancho, understanding, as he does, that the design was to convey him a prisoner to Fort Yuma, which the <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
026.sgm: newspaper of this city describes as the Bastile of California.  Even Mr. Scott says that he is afraid to attend the San Diego District Court (to be holden next week), lest the officer in command there may take it into his head to arrest him.</p><P>Both these gentlemen inquire: "What have <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
026.sgm: done, to justify our arrest?"  Mr. Scott intimated to me "even you may be arrested!" and I very naturally inquired: "What have I done to justify such a proceeding?"</p><P>I begin now, indeed, to apprehend that we are on the eve of witnessing serious evils in this beautiful section of the State. A war here would certainly be utterly ruinous to all our material interests; and would be likely to stain our annals with tales of bloodshed that have as yet been recorded in no part of the Union.</p><P>I understand the order of arrest for Mr. Rains emanated directly from the officer left in command there when Col. West started for San Francisco.  I have not yet been able to ascertain his name.  It is most difficult to divine what "notions" are operating, at this time, on the overzealous dispositions of the leaders of "Union clubs" and military chieftains (in embryo) who appear to have the control.  It is as difficult, now and then, to tell what is the true source of the policy adopted, whether the Club or the Camp. We shall soon know, I suppose.</p><P>I had written the above when Dr. Welch comes in, to tell me that I am mistaken as to Col. Carleton having ordered the detachment back to their post, and that, on the contrary, Mr. Rains, Dr. Winston, and others comprehended in this "policy" have "scattered," to use the Dr.'s words. He says he has his information from one in the employ of the Government, and that himself and Dr. John S. Griffin are "on the list of the proscribed," that the order comes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:from Gen. Wright, at San Francisco. Dr. W. says an arrest will break him up.</p><P>He further states, information has reached this City to-night that the redoubtable Col. Baylor is now at Tucson, with 3000 men, on his march immediately to Fort Yuma.</p><P>In respect to this, it was only this morning that the editor of the ----- told me, a Sonorian arrived last night with the report that Tucson had been successfully assaulted and taken recently by the Apaches, all the houses burned, and many of the inhabitants killed.</p><P>Now, I seem to myself to comprehend <HI REND="italics">why</HI>
026.sgm: Jonathan J. Warner was at my room this afternoon, to learn how many grape vines there are in this State! He is the author of the letters that appear so frequently in the San Francisco papers over the signature of "Selden," and whose chief object is to fan the flame of civil disorder in our community, while they seek to strengthen the idea, much entertained in the northern part of the State, that there is a grand and general conspiracy here for separation. A pretty good writer--of a precarious reputation-and with enough of reason for a strong partisan malevolence, toward those who happen to be of the opposite school, in our past controversies--and with sufficient fluency of speech and confidence of manner (not to say impudence) to force his thoughts upon weak men, like Sumner-he has done already considerable political and social mischief in these bad times. And now, seeing breakers ahead and not certain of the turns of the gale, he is beginning to think of an older, and better, hobby, our <HI REND="italics">Vendimia</HI>
026.sgm:.  I will get the information for him by morning, but I must ever regard him hereafter, as a man, as dangerous as he is trifling and worthless.  It is a truism, however, that revolutions always (for a while at least) place in the front rank the basest of mankind.</p><P>Jan. 11th: The school which it is proposed that Chauncey attend, is to be held by Mr. Cramer, the late teacher of the Grammar School, who resides at the San Pascual Rancho. The terms are $25 per month for board and tuition.  I am to pay for his washing. Grass for his horse is free, but if he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:wishes it fed with grain, I must furnish it. The parents of the pupils are to provide clothing, furniture for one bedroom, and 12 table-napkins for each child.</p><P>Captain A--- has been stopping at the Lafayette two or three weeks.  I only made his acquaintance a few days ago.  The kind old Mary Jo, now chambermaid here, brought him to my room and introduced him to me. He has taken charge of the Male Public School. Born in Placquemine, Louisiana, sent to Eton, afterward to Cambridge, present at the coronation of Queen Victoria (or her marriage, I forget which), served both in the French and the American navy, Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Three Sisters</HI>
026.sgm: (wrecked off Guayaquil).  His wife is a daughter of Col. Hunter, formerly Consul at Southampton.  She is now at San Francisco with her accomplished sister and her little daughter, now just eight years old.  He is here to look at our country until she comes.  An easy, pleasant gentleman of the most urbane manners, and evidently of considerable acquirements and experience, but greatly depressed in spirits at this time.</p><P>No, No!  He enters my room this afternoon glad and joyful--four letters--from wife, and friends (the latter an English lawyer in Washoe, and an Episcopal Bishop of Victoria, whose signature is "George Columbia").  "My child will not fill up the void made by the absence of one so dear as you--"  ("Doubtful!"  his quiet voice mutters.  O money!  O ambition!  I was tempted to think).  And then he tells me his expectations and anticipations are all toward Paris.  His wife tells him to write her in French, as she does; she has received a letter from the Pope, another from the Duc de Grammont; the little daughter is already betrothed to the son of the latter, according to French custom (the wife's doings), and he does not interfere.  Wife's and sister's income each $2000 per annum, which they have long enjoyed in Europe, preferred by long alienation to their native soil.  Capt A. looks to Paris, to gratify his ambition and his eye brightens when he pronounces the words:</p><P>"I have ambitious views!"</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>Yet he seems to be reconciled to the humble prospect which, I think, surrounds the Public School of Los Angeles! 14th:</p><P>I should have started to-day to San Diego, to hold Court, but the driver informs me that the roads and rivers are too bad for me.  He started with the mail this morning in a buggy, but returned, and set off again on horseback.  The attorneys too--Messrs. Scott, Kewen, Gitchell--are all against attempting the journey.</p><P>I regret it, for, besides my official business, I wished to make some observations of the country at this particular time, just after such incessant rains for so great a length of time.</p><P>Judge John Brown of San Bernardino writes me of date the 12th inst. as follows: "It has been raining three weeks steadily at San Bernardino.  My road (to Holcombe valley) is all washed away; all my former work is lost; I have now to make a new road, or lose all that I have expended. Some people advise me to quit road-bulding, but I am determined to build a road at all hazards.  I returned from the road yesterday, and shall go back to-morrow with the men, etc., to build it up again.  My greatest trouble is the money to pay.  Is Godey or Miguel Ortiz in Los Angeles?"</p><P>Chauncey is full of the idea of going to the rancho to live and "pursue his studies."  Arrangements are made to have everything ready to-morrow. Just here I am inspired to preserve (if these notes remain) the title of the book he first learns to read in. It is: "Sargeant's Standard School Primer; or, First Steps in Reading, Spelling, and Thinking, on a New and Approved Plan, with Illustrations by Billings and Others.  San Francisco, H. H. Bancroft &amp; Company, 1861."</p><P>I wonder if he will be a poet. The piece in it that pleases him most is <HI REND="italics">The Bright Day</HI>
026.sgm:, and I have been struck with his admiration of the line-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB><HI REND="italics">Hark! the tinkle of the brook</HI>
026.sgm: --<LB>which I have heard him oft repeating to himself. The other topics of this book he made me read to him over and over again are <HI REND="italics">The Boy and the Nest, The Robin, The Sun, God Made All, Birds</HI>
026.sgm:.  When he goes away I hardly know what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:I will do. I must submit to it.  So far, he has acquired no bad habits from his playmates on the streets. He is innocent, and good.</p><P>Jan. 15th: It commenced snowing about the last of October, 1861, in Holcombe Valley.  Fell a foot deep, snow melted; another storm of snow about the same depth November 15th, soon melted, leaving warm, delightful weather in the valley of Holcombe.  On Christmas eve the rain began, soon turning into a Snow which fell over three feet.  On Jan. 8th began to rain, and slush, the snow disappearing a great deal; at the depth of two feet, Mr. Nichols started out of the valley.</p><P>He came by the desert road.  The Mojave was very high.  He started on the afternoon of the 10th January. Very heavy rains have fallen on the desert.  He could see numerous lakes upon it, where none have been seen for many years.  In the Cajon Pass, he says, there is no road at all, the torrents have swept every thing out of their way. The snow in Holcombe Valley has not stopped quartz operations; there have been about 100 men there all winter, doing well.</p><P>Jan. 30th: A. S. Ensworth, Esq., writes me from San Diego of date the 20th:</p><P>"For several days we have had the rain falling in large quantities.  The San Diego river overflowed the flats, so that a boat went to the houses and brought away the women and children.  One house washed entirely away.  Lyon's garden is entirely destroyed, one bed of the river running through it."</p><P>This letter came by steamer, received the 28th. The land mail has not yet arrived.</p><P>From Anaheim I learn that the water has been advantageous to the vineyards, rather than otherwise. The Sisters Of Charity started the 28th with the donations they have received for the relief of the people of Agua Mansa. The Sheriff of San Bernardino county informs me that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:chief damage at the City was from City Creek and Warm Creek; lower down, near Slover's, these unite with the main river Santa Ana, hence the greater destruction at Agua Mansa.  The creek at Garner's comes out of the <HI REND="italics">Ca&ntilde;ada de los Negros</HI>
026.sgm:; he has heard of no serious damage there.  To take his description, the water of City and Warm Creeks came very suddenly, and "in billows fifty feet high."</p><P>Feb. 3d: Start for San Bernardino.  Road pretty good, considering the heavy rains we have had. At San Gabriel Mission we take the road direct to Mud Spring, crossing the river a considerable distance above the Monte. The main river still flowing swiftly, with a great body of water; during the flood, it made another channel through the settled portion of the Monte, passing through the little town of Lexington. This channel, 1 understand, the people have turned back to the main bed. Wherever crossed, however, it was still a swift current.</p><P>Dined at Mud Spring; the day cloudy and cold, and a little drizzling in the afternoon.  Reached San Bernardino about dark. Rained through the night.</p><P>Feb. 6th: At the mills on the mountain above the City, the snow is 16 inches deep; in all the mountains, there have been very heavy snows, as their sides and tops indicate. Yesterday met with Capt. Fritz and Dr. Prentiss, day before with Lieuts. Baldwin and Wardwell.  Polite invitations to their camp, now about a mile and a half north of the house I am stopping at. Yesterday finally disposed of the case on <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
026.sgm: of the People vs. Isaac Cohn.  All accounts represent this City as in a sad state of disorder at this time.</p><P>About 10 o'clock P.M. there was the shock of an earthquake, lasting a second, oscillation from east to west.</p><P>Friday, 7th: Alex Godey arrived here last night from San Francisco.  The <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
026.sgm: left San Francisco the morning of the 3d, raining at the time, same day began to be stormy, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:off Point Conception encountered a very heavy gale which Capt. Seely described as the severest he had ever experienced on the coast; this was severest on the night of the 4th.  At one time he was on the point of throwing all the freight overboard.  The <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
026.sgm: was heavily laden--some 780 tons of freight.  Sea too rough to go into San Pedro, consequently lay half a day in the bay of Santa Cruz Island.  A schooner in the port of San Pedro had to put to sea.</p><P>I am glad to learn that Godey has received the appointment of SupervisOr of the Indians in this District. He is full of the idea Of making himself useful to them. Last evening passed away pleasantly with his chat on Fremont, Halleck, Indian Battles, etc.  Godey gave me a description of the Battle of San Pascual, for the result of which he blames Gen. Kearney.  I shall not soon forget his description of his own encounter with an Indian chief on the Chowchilla.</p><P>(The way Godey learned to write his name--Dodge--Mormon elder--St. George-cotton.)</p><P>No lives were lost at Agua Mansa-was it a special grace of Providence?</p><P>Father Borgatta told me he heard the roar of the waters far up the valley, some considerable length of time before the flood reached Agua Mansa.  So he could ring the bells for warning.  Still, several had to swim out.</p><P>Mr. Conn says: "The Santa Ana river broke over its banks, ran into City Creek, and the united torrent into Warm Creek, long before reaching the City; and this new river, as it were, afterward reunited itself below the City, with the main stream. The river broke over its banks above the fields of Carpenter and others."</p><P>Agua Mansa is, or rather was, a valley about six miles in length and from one-half to three-fourths of a mile in width, the river winding about midway through it, the soil a light, sandy loam, very rich.  It was one continued farm, divided into a hundred or more fields, each having its separate owner.  At the lower end began the cottonwood forest of Rubidoux, much of this filled by the flood.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:stream, and then the united torrent into Warm Creek. This occurred before Warm Creek reached the farms nearest the City, on the lower ground.  This new river afterward reunited itself below the City with the main river, and the whole volume of water poured itself upon the devoted Agua Mansa.</p><P>City Creek runs more than 20 miles through the recesses of the mountain ridge back of the City, but you cannot easily ascend it further than 2 or 3 miles from the valley, so wild, so many boulders, etc.  From the church of Agua Mansa, the distance is G miles, by the road, to San Bernardino City, thence to where the main river comes out of the ca&ntilde;on, 12 miles; but by the main river it may be about 25 miles from the church to the mouth of the ca&ntilde;on.</p><P>Jurupa is the name of the whole tract of land, according to the Mexican grant, but it is also in common parlance applied to Agua Mansa, and the latter name is in more common use than that of San Salvador.</p><P>I visited Agua Mansa on the 6th.  A dreary desolation presented itself to my eye, familiar dwellings overturned, or washed away; here only a chimney, there a mere door-post or a few scattered stakes of a fence, lofty and stout trees torn up, a mass of drifted branches from the mountain ca&ntilde;ons, and a universal waste of sand on both banks of the river, where a few months before all was green and beautiful with orchard and vineyard and garden, the live willow fence enclosing every field and giving a grateful shade for the pleasant lanes and roads. Here during many years a simple, frugal, and industrious population had lived, with a considerable measure of prosperity, to me always appearing a happy race, certainly hospitable, kind, and joyous when I met them, whether at the <HI REND="italics">iglesia</HI>
026.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">baile</HI>
026.sgm:, or the social hearth.  They were all or nearly all from New Mexico, and some of them Indians of the pueblos of Taos.  I do not remember any American, of late years, residing among them, although visits of Americans were continuous, for diversion, Or in the course of travel from Los Angeles, or of business, and I never heard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Afterward the Mexican title to these lands passed into other hands; many were the solicitations the simple people made, from year to year, for conveyance to. them of what they supposed they had earned by exposure to privation and danger; they were delayed on one pretext or another; the contention is now ended, and peradventure will never be revived, at least this is the present prospect, to look at the lands as they are.</p><P>(Memorandum, August 7th, 1864: The old inhabit ants are scattered Somewhat, a large number forced into mining in Holcombe Valley and neighboring places, to help out their scanty crops. They do not Seem inclined to wander far, but prefer to pick up here and there where they can, patches of a few acres amidst the sand, to the best promises from any other quarter.  Agua Mansa--Gentle Water--there may be something in the name.  Indeed, of the place itself and of its denizens I have no reminiscence that carries with it excitement or any idea of bustle, still less of violence and passion's storms that darkly tinge many of my other recollections.  A happy tranquility diffuses itself through this vale, as it once was, and over everything there. Some benign influence-Or could it have been a failure of proper energy?  <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
026.sgm: at least can never so reproach them--kept men and women much in the even tenor of their way. I do not remember to have heard of a public meeting there except twice, and then to build a church, and this may fairly illustrate their character, for, as I have repeatedly witnessed, there was among them a lively devotion to the affairs of Religion.</p><P>I have mentioned a single family.  Its head was Don Lorenzo Trujillo, one of the finest representatives of the pure pueblo Indians of Taos.  He continued until his death to play a leading part in a community the majority of whom were of the conqueror's blood.  Give him due credit for successful industry and skill as a farmer, still he may deserve a higher commendation for the zeal he displayed in founding the first church--A.D. 1852--a commodious adobe edifice built under his immediate superintendence, but washed down by the rains just before the roof of thatch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:was to be put on, in 1854.  It bore the title "The Church of San Salvador."  This is also the legal name of she township, and in particular was the name he delighted to give to his own sub-neighborhood, a cluster of convenient adobe houses (of which the church would have been the central charm), where he had gathered together his numerous sons and daughters and daughters-in-law and their infinite offspring, with I know not how many <HI REND="italics">hijados</HI>
026.sgm:, and governed them like a venerable patriarch.</p><P>He was an enthusiast in all he undertook, without worldly education, of much energy and good sense. He had an idea that San Salvador would soon become a flourishing town.  Visions of "lots" ended in but half-suppressed jealousies amongst the other inhabitants up and down the river, and the rains that ruined his beloved church design moderated and changed his plans of a more temporal nature.</p><P>Providence took better care of the flock, we might think when we see them fleeing from the mad waters to the altar which their piety afterward erected upon a safer and in all respects a more desirable spot. The present church is a large frame building, situated on the main street or road running along at the foot of the high bench that bounds the valley on the west through its whole length. Many of the people resided on this bench, having their farms and gardens below.  Adjoining the church are two or three rooms occupied by the priest of the parish. With agreeable emotions, I mention three successive occupants of these cells, Rev. James Anthony Borgatta, Rev. Dominic Serrano, Rev. Peter Verdaguer, the last yet in the very youth of his apostolic career, who has the other day laid the foundation of another church at the City of San Bernardino. Poor Don Lorenzo, the beginner of the good work, "may he rest in peace!"</p><P>They used to show me here, at the foot of the ridge of lofty hills and peaks that hem in the valley on the southeast, all the stations, each with its rude cross surmounting a little mound of rocks, where the corpse rested on its journey to the grave-yard; the stations have escaped the flood. Don Lorenzo departed this life in the year 1857. It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:Don Lorenzo, Viejo Slover,--worthy that a better pen should emblazon their humble story.</p><P>This region has an earlier history, necessarily not to be traced far back. The Indian traditions we have of it are few. In the year 1841 it was the largest of the landed possessions or ranchos belonging to the Missions, but by no means the most productive.  Before 1835 the Cahuillas and Serranos had been partially Christianized, and a regular establishment formed amongst them at the distance of six miles up the river from the present church of San Salvador.  Here taught and labored the Rev. Father Tomas Est&eacute;naga, unfortunately doomed to see the best efforts for their salvation crushed in a rising of neophytes, aided by untamed savages, in the last-named year. They subjected even their pastor to rough treatment.  Quiet was restored but the Indians never returned in any number to the establishment, and it soon became nothing more than a stock-farm called Jumua. Some of the old buildings could be seen in 1850, with the olives of the garden and the outlines of the fields that had been cultivated still apparent from the rows of cottonwood.</p><P>The Serranos were not numerous, of a milder temper and fairer complexion. The black and fiercer Cahuillas, whose name means <HI REND="italics">Master</HI>
026.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">The Great Nation</HI>
026.sgm:, who twenty years before filled every habitable spot, had left here a petty village of fifty beings on a little rise of ground at the edge of the present City, euphoniously enough called Apolitano.  In the following year Mormons bought them out, and since it has been a harder struggle with them for existence at their new home twelve miles off at San Timoteo. The rest of "the great nation," with the exception of the servants in the towns and ranchos of the whites, have taken to the few places of grass and water to be found upon the Colorado Desert.</p><P>It must not be understood, however, that all have relapsed into heathenism. The signs are too evident that fruits of the seed which the good Fathers planted so many years ago remain.  Many of the men at any village will claim to be <HI REND="italics">Cristianos</HI>
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026.sgm:them to be? Were they only speculators for temporal gain? One thing has been observed of them; in the whole country, they invariably made the best selections for the purposes of a Mission, and there is no doubt they were adepts in what makes for utility.  Still, see their ideas of beauty, around their cells at San Diego, San Gabriel, San Fernando. But go to Jumua, and you will say they must have been <HI REND="italics">poets</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>To obtain the most perfect prospect--myself neither poet nor painter--I would choose Jumua, and next, the hillside of old Don Hipolito; the two points seven miles apart on a due north and south line and equidistant from the center of the present city (which itself, with its adjacent farms and the lower river lands, is a flat of an area seventy miles square).  From any veranda, the lands are so very low you may suppose yourself to be walled in by Mt. San Bernardino and the ridges extending to and beyond Cucamonga, and those from Jurupa southeasterly in the direction of San Jacinto, with a single narrow avenue of escape opening to the west.</p><P>An immense tract of land around San Jacinto's base is owned by an amiable and numerous family, of the honored names of Estudillo, Pedrorena, Arguello, always mentioned with respect by those who know them well, indeed with the warmest kindness. "I go to San Jacinto"-"I come from San Jacinto"-these are common expressions. We know little Of this gigantic heap, a <HI REND="italics">terra incognita</HI>
026.sgm:.  An Indian rancheria, said to be well-governed, is somewhere there. Familiar as I am with Indians, I have never seen a soul that belongs to it.  Realm of mystery!  What spirits of the ancient heathen tribes are guarding it from invasion?  Is there no legend to tell?  I only remember that its sands are of gold on the farther side, and Juan Antonio, great chief of the Cahuillas, went there a twelvemonth since, worn with public cares of San Timoteo, to die of the pestilence. There he was born, eighty years ago, I have heard.  Let it be his monument-Chief, whose stern deeds are all the history thy people have, or all till now told of them.</p><P>Between these two mountains Nature has made for the cars of commerce an almost imperceptible ascent and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm: clustered near Agua Mansa look as if they formed an impassable barrier to egress from the valley; really, only the lofty gates that open to more bountiful soils and more luxuriant pastures, on plains that tire <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:the eye to gaze over.  In general the <HI REND="italics">Cerritos</HI>
026.sgm: are without verdure, yet there is a singular beauty about them. The days are warmer here than on the immediate coast; the sea breeze is tardy in arriving, and comes heated by the furnace of Cucamonga; the exhalations, too, from this damp valley and from an alkaline soil must contribute to influence the atmosphere. Whatever may be the reason, the hills put on hues and take them Off more strangely than I have observed nearer the seashore.</p><P>Down deep within the bosom of those <HI REND="italics">Cerritos</HI>
026.sgm: lay the fair and blooming Agua Mansa.  Flowing away from it, the river is more rapid through old Jurupa and until its waters touch the tender grasses of Pasignogna.  Here, fed by innumerable springs, it capriciously grows more quiet, sleeping along; then to regale the vine among the joyous Germans of Anaheim, and then off over the open plain to the rich acres of Refugio and Jenga; a little further, the will of Providence done, it bounds gladly into the peaceful sea.</p><P>What I have called Jumua requires an explanation. The Indians called the place where the old Mission buildings are Gua-chama.  But there is not much difference.  The whole tract of land around was owned, in 1850, by the family of Lugo. One brother, Jos&eacute; del Carmen, resided at Gua-chama, a mile and a half or so from the other brother, Jos&eacute; Maria, whose place was called Jumua.  Either word might be used, if occasion required it, in a poetical composition, according to the judgment as to the sound.</p><P>I have not been able to find the Indian word for Mt. San Bernardino. Since the conquest, the Spanish designation has prevailed, <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
026.sgm:, which does not distinguish it from the mountains elsewhere in the State.</p><P>The mountain in San Diego County called Cuyamaca--"the high mountain" is higher than Mt. San Bernardino; it is often called San Ysabel but this applies more properly to a point lower down on the side or descent of Cuyamaca. San Bernardino, San Jacinto, Cuyamaca are the three mountains of this section, the only three in an extent of two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>San Bernardino correspondence, <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
026.sgm:, Feb. 21, 1863:</p><P>"SMALLPOX: This loathsome disease has made its Appearance in our community, but not to any great extent, only a few cases having been reported to the time of writing. . . . Old Juan Antonio, of San Timoteo, is also a victim to this disease, and upon its becoming known among his tribe, they immediately packed up and left for the Cabazon Valley, leaving their old chief without any assistance and entirely destitute of food.  Mr. D. G. Weaver, who resides in San Timoteo, on hearing of the condition of Juan, very kindly engaged a Mexican to carry him some pro visions and to render him such other assistance within his power. Juan's mode of treatment is sweats, followed by cold water baths. such treatment will, <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
026.sgm: course, soon produce a fatal result."</p><P>[Same, Feb. 28, 1863]: "Since my last, old Juan Antonio and four other Indians have died of smallpox, and I have been informed that the bodies have not been buried and that they are being mutilated by hogs and dogs (this is surely an exaggerated rumor-Ed.  <HI REND="italics">Star.</HI>
026.sgm: )  Of course it is a matter of much annoyance to the whites living in that neighborhood. Where Is our Indian agent?"</p><P>Jan. [  ], 1863. To Hon. Alex. Godey, Indian Superintendent of Southern District of California: The undersigned, citizens of the counties of San Diego, Los Angeles, and San Bernardino, beg leave respectfully to call your attention to the recent alarming spread of the smallpox, within said counties, and especially among the Indian population, as well among those domesticated upon the ranchos and in towns, as those who continue to live in their several rancherias.  In the small town or settlement of San Juan Capistrano, about one hundred and thirty Indians have died of this disease, within the last three months, and it is now beginning to affect Temecula, Pala, San Ysabel, and the other principal rancherias of the mountains. It is impossible, apparently, with convenience either to the Indians or to the whites, at present to separate the two classes of population, and thus whatever may be done by the county and municipal authorities to mitigate, check, <HI REND="italics">or</HI>
026.sgm: eradicate this disease amongst the whites, must connect itself with some measure for the particular benefit of the Indians, if we expect ever to restore health to the counties above mentioned.  We find that a great mistake has prevailed, as to the reported vaccination of the Indians, and a fatal mistake has been made, the consequences of which we are just beginning to see.  It is not necessary now to inquire as to the causes of this mistake; we assure you solemnly and earnestly of the fact. As one of the first steps, therefore, towards the eradication of the smallpox, now so fearfully extending amongst us, we would respectfully petition that we may have your influence, heretofore so usefully felt here, in procuring the appointment by the Federal Government, of two or more competent, benevolent, and faithful <HI REND="italics">physicians</HI>
026.sgm: to visit these Indians at the earliest possible day, so as to ensure their immediate vaccination.</p><P>BENJ. HAYES, District Judge, etc.</p><P>The above I wrote at San Diego; it was generally signed in the three counties, and forwarded by Mr. Godey to Mr. Wentworth, the Indian Superintendent.  Up to that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:date, Jan. 16, there had been comparatively few cases in San Diego county, nine at San Mateo, eight at Montserrate, three at Temecula, three at Pala.  There were none at the City of San Diego, or elsewhere in the county of San Diego, but the greatest alarm prevailed among all classes. This is shewn by the annexed letter of Col. Coutts, although only in part.  He afterwards told me he would not have admitted me into his house, if I had stopped on my way down in the stage.  Indeed, at the City I think I was received by several with much caution, thinking I might have the poison on my clothes.  Nevertheless, they had made no arrangements for a hospital, and had even forgotten to have the Indians vaccinated.  I suggested to Mr. R. B. Tibbets, Justice Of the Peace, the annexed regulations for the Indians, which were carried into effect there, and before I left some 70 Indians, from 100 years old down, were vaccinated by Dr. D. B. Hoffman.  These regulations were forwarded by me to the adjoining townships of that county,as well as to San Bernardino county, and to San Juan and El Monte townships in Los Angeles county.<ANCHOR ID="n7-2">*</ANCHOR>
026.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-2">The Supervisors of Los Angeles County, Messrs. Morris, Aguilar, Gibson, and Wilson, appropriated $200 for the relief of the citizens of San Juan Capistrano. Regulations and instructions were sent by Judge Hayes in Spanish. At his request Don J"an Abila, Don Juan Forster, and Don Jos&eacute; Ant&oacute;nio Yorba took charge of the supplies purchased with the donation.  They reported on Feb. 14, 1863, that relief had been extended to thirty-four families.  For Don Agust&iacute;n Olvera Judge Hayes translated an address to the Californians in Los Angeles, on which is noted:  "Their committee made some little effort to carry it into effect, but they did no practical good. after day, consulting over this little address!  They were a full week, day Meanwhile, how many died!  More successful was an address written by the Judge for Mr. Samuel Prager, addressed to the Hebrew Benevolent Society of Los Angeles. It calls attention to the fact that 1000 persons had been attacked by smallpox in the town and more than 300 had died, and resulted in a substantial contribution. Judge Hayes notes that the warrant from the County for the aid at San Juan was worth at least 55 cents on the dollar.  On Jan. 31, 1563, the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star</HI>
026.sgm:<P>[DRAFT FOR ORDER MADE AS DISTRICT JUDGE] January [  ], 1863.</p><P>In view of the recent rapid spread of the small-pox within the County of San Diego and the adjacent counties, and, as far as may be, to prevent its extension through the township of San Diego, it is hereby ordered as follows:</p><P>1.  Manuel, an Indian, is hereby appointed Captain of all the Indians domiciliated and living within the limits of the City of San Diego, to see that order is preserved amongst them and that they observe the laws and police regulations, especially concerning the public health.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>2.  All said Indians shall be immediately reported to Dr. D. B. Hoffman, or other competent physician, for vaccination.</p><P>3.  Said Indians shall immediately clean up their houses and habitations and corrals, and remove to some point remote from said town, all rubbish and offensive matter, and wash all bedding and apparel.</p><P>4.  No person of said Indians shall visit any other Indian rancheria within said township, or said county, without first obtaining a written permission or pass from the proper Justice of the Peace, or other competent authority.</p><P>5.  No Indians or other persons inhabiting Indian rancherias shall be permitted to visit or mix with the said Indians of the town of San Diego, without a written permission or Pass from the proper Justice of the Peace, or other competent authority.</p><P>6.  No Indians shall depart from their respective rancherias without first being vaccinated, unless in cases of necessity and with the proper permission or pass.</p><P>COLONEL CAVE J. COUTS TO JUDGE HAYES CONCERNING THE BURIAL OF DON YSIDRO ALVARADO OF RANCHO MONTSERRATE</p><P>Guajome, Jany. 14, 1863.</p><P>In avoiding the loathsome disease now infesting our community, we have had to resort to <HI REND="italics">arms</HI>
026.sgm:, resulting in the killing of one man.  Early this morning I learned that Don Ysidro Alvarado was about to be buried, at San Luis Rey, having died with small-pox.  I immediately despatched a boy to advise the Indians not to allow it.  The Capt. came to me soon as possible, remonstrating against the burial, but that he had no force to prevent it.  In the meantime a servant of Alvarado's (Juarez) arrived here drunk, paying no attention to the guards on the outside, but riding up to the door and refused to leave until I drew my pistol on him.  He then went off a hundred yards or so and waited until I gave him a note to Tomas Alvarado, which note was sympathising with all the family at the loss of their father, and an order <HI REND="italics">for no one to be buried at San Luis Rey</HI>
026.sgm: who died of small-pox, stating it was by your order.  At last I sent Blunt (my brother) to head them off and not allow the burial to take place.  To prevent any trouble, as I thought, I sent two boys with him in my little wagon, with shotguns.  Blunt drove up and told them that he had come as Shff. from the Justice of the Peace not to allow that body to be buried there.  They then sung out, "To arms!"  Blunt had got out of the wagon, and one of them (named Leon Basquez, as I hear). jumped the wall and at Blunt with his spade and knife.  Blunt shot him dead.  He (Basquez) is known as a bad character.  After Blunt fired, they all broke.  Blunt came back to the ranch, and it was my intention in the first place to arm all hands and go back, but as there were some seven or eight of these roughs from PaIn, I have thought more prudent not to do so, but send this express to you.  I regret to learn, as one of the boys tells me, that Tomas was also present.</p><P>The fellow killed is really not worth noticing, further than to satisfy those who may have been present, or <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
026.sgm: a like cast to himself.  They can hardly trouble me here, without the collection of the large rabble about Pala.</p><P>Please give McCoy such instructions or orders as you may think proper, and keep the matter secret for the present.  Blunt was just ready to start for San Ysabel, but now remains here.  Hope you will answer me fully by the negro, Miguel, who goes with this, or if you can, come out yourself.</p><P>Yours truly, (Signed) Chvz J. Covrs.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>JUDGE HAYES TO CAPT. GEORGE A. PENDLETON Jan. 28, 1863.</p><P>Extract. I attended a funeral at the Catholic Cemetery, yesterday, of young Matias Savich (nephew of Antonio Coronel), who died of consumption. This led me to have a view of the upper part of the City, from the Church <HI REND="italics">por arriba</HI>
026.sgm:.  Not a soul In the streets, except the funeral procession:  every window shut: not a person at the doors, except a little boy who, as if by chance, opened his door, and cried out to another inside, "Come, see the funeral!"  The ladies did not leave the carriages.  Entering the Cemetery, we found one New Mexican, with a couple of Indian boys, just completing the grave of a poor woman who was lying by in her plain black coffin--a few young Indian girls were sitting around, attracted there from curiosity, I presume, for it was only after several inquiries I could ascertain the name of the deceased, Maria Ca&ntilde;eda de Castan, a Sonoranian, the third who had died of that family.  The priest accompanied <HI REND="italics">our funeral</HI>
026.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">celebrated the last rites</HI>
026.sgm:.  I <HI REND="italics">wished</HI>
026.sgm: for a <HI REND="italics">peso, to ask him to sprinkle the holy</HI>
026.sgm: water over the rude coffin, but was ashamed to ask the service on credit, even for an hour; perhaps it is "all the same in Heaven."  As the Indians who dug our grave were not vaccinated, they were Instructed, when we left them to finish the work, not to go near to the other coffin, and we left the parties at their sad offices, not omitting to notice what is so plain there, the great number of fresh graves.  Even outside along the walls, there are very many new mounds which I did not see there last November.  Returning in our carriage to Olvera's, the same gloom as before.  Coronel pointed out to me one house In which eleven had died, in another three, in this two remained sick, In that three, in that one, and so on.  I felt relieved at last to meet the venerable Bishop in his carriage, passing up into this abode of sorrow.  I am afraid I may not have charity enough to return there, unless It be on the same errand, or, perchance, to be myself the occupant of one of those snug little tenements for which we pay no monthly rent.</p><P>To be candid with you, I think some Justice of the Peace or other officer of San Diego should have communication with the ranch of Montserrate, enough at least to furnish them with lime, or other necessaries, to put the ranch In order again, at least with friendly <HI REND="italics">advice</HI>
026.sgm:.  Because a house is afflicted with a contagious disorder, it is not to be cut off from <HI REND="italics">all the</HI>
026.sgm: kindnesses of life.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VIII<LB>LATER SAN DIEGO NOTES MASSACRE OF PAUMA</HEAD>
026.sgm:<P>Some families of San Diego yet mourn for relatives who were killed by the San Luis Rey Indians in 1846. The day is remembered only as between <HI REND="italics">dia de la Virgen</HI>
026.sgm: (Dec. 8th) and that of Guadalupe (Dec. 12th).  It was immediately after the battle of San Pascual, which took place on Dec. 6th. It is unknown and inexplicable what may have led the Indians to strike this blow at persons living amongst them on terms of the greatest confidence.</p><P>Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Serrano lost a brother, Manuel Serrano, aged twenty years; his wife, Do&ntilde;a Nievas Aguilar, her brother Ramon Aguilar, and her nephew Santos Alipaz, the latter a child of thirteen years. The rest of the slain were:</p><P>Jos&eacute; Maria Alvarado, Jos&eacute; Lopez (father of Don Lino Lopez), Dominguez, of Los Angeles City; Basualdo, son-in-law of Jos&eacute; Lopez; Santiago Osuna, the young son of the venerable Do&ntilde;a Juliana Osuna; Justachio Ruiz, son of Don Joaquin Ruiz of Las Bolsas, Los Angeles County, together with a man from Baja California and a New Mexican whose names are forgotten.</p><P>Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Serrano, Don Juan Maria Osuna, Don Bonifacio Lopez and Don Jos&eacute; Aguilar, at this time had cattle, sheep, and horses on this rancho, which was granted to Serrano and Aguilar and a brother of the latter in 1843 by Governor Micheltorena. The rest had placed their stock there for safety from the American arms, in accordance with a recommendation or order of the Mexican General, Jos&eacute; Maria Flores.  Early in the night Don Jos&eacute; Antonio Serrano had been at Pauma, but left for Pala, where were staying his own and several other families, in consequence of news furnished by a letter which had been brought out that day from the pueblo of San Diego.</p><P>Pablo Apis, Chief of Temecula, was also at Pala. He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:offered his protection to the whites, after the worst became known to him, and, it is believed, did save them from further injury.</p><P>The well-known "General," Manuelito Cota, was supposed to have been at the head of this sudden movement of his people. The inmates at the ranch house, several of them, were asleep, when he knocked at the door.  Recognizing his voice, which always had been regarded as that of a friend, Don Jos&eacute; Maria Alvarado opened the door, against every remonstrance of the rest.  The Indians rushed in, seized their victims, took them to a place between Potrero and Agua Caliente, and put them to death in the most cruel manner.</p><P>This is another Striking proof of the fierce character which these Indians of the missions are capable of assuming, in addition to many instances in their history since 1833, when to a great extent they were freed from religious control. It is very certain at the present day they will require watchfulness and care on the part of the Government, with just treatment from citizens, to guard against occasional atrocities they may commit when under any excitement.  In general their impulses are good and they are docile enough, but, like children angered, their first rage never distinguishes the offender from the innocent.</p><P>The stock of the Californians was appropriated by the Indians and none of it ever recovered.  Some of it afterward was sold to Major Graham when his command crossed the Colorado desert.  The loss for a time broke up Se&ntilde;or Serrano.</p><P>A strange version of this tragedy came by rumor into the American camp at San Diego, indicated by the following paragraph in Dr. Griffin's <HI REND="italics">Unpublished Journal</HI>
026.sgm: (this story was probably started by the Indians, who were always ingenious enough to gloss over their conduct). Dr. G. says, December 22d:</p><P>"A report reached our camp the other day that the Indians had killed eleven Mexicans, who had first attacked the Indians, killed five or six and taken their cattle and horses. At night the Indians surrounded the Mexican camp, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:<P>As to the Indian title, I regard this as merely possessory; still, it is the right of possession, which is of some importance.  I know of no state law or state authority, that could at present dislodge, for example, the Indians of the village of Agua Caliente.  Their planting grounds surround the famous Hot Spring.  This is of great value.  When I was last there (1867) they seemed to regard the immediate vicinity of the Spring as their own.  I paid them a dollar for my bath, at the rustic bathing establishment they have constructed, consisting of two goods' boxes sunk in the ground, sheltered by a <HI REND="italics">ramada</HI>
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026.sgm:<P>THE CAJON, 1867-THE MISSION DAM</p><P>Sunday, Nov. 10th: I availed myself of this charming day, in company with Don Miguel de Pedrorena, to visit the Cajon rancho belonging to himself and sisters.  Our road led up Mission Valley six miles to the old Mission of San Diego. The improvements made by the military prior to 1858 are all gone. Anastario Navarro, a Sonoranian, now has the property on shares with the priest.  He was busy curing olives. They are kept in fresh water fifteen days, changed every second day, then kept in salt water; they Serve for daily use or sale; they bring $2 per keg of 15 gallons.  Here the river is about 450 feet in width.  All its flat might be cultivated in corn, without irrigation, which Marcellino has proved this year with his field. With the Portesuelo on one end, the white limestone crags on the west bank, and the mesa de arroz and low hills that round the mission site, it is not entirely without beauty. The climate is warmer than at the city; it is the place of places for invalids.</p><P>A long, narrow ca&ntilde;on, the ascent gentle, called Daddy Ames' road, in two miles brought us upon the broad table-land which begins just back of the town, extends southeast to Sweetwater Valley, and in the direction we are travelling terminates in Spring and Cajon valleys.  It is covered with bunch grass, with good soil; there is also considerable low grass (ramo) which cattle and sheep resort to in bad seasons.  When scarcity of grass was ever spoken of, Don Juan Bandini used to inquire:  <HI REND="italics">Hay ramo</HI>
026.sgm:?  If receiving a favorable reply, he smiled content, with the emphatic remark, " <HI REND="italics">Si hay ramo, no mueren</HI>
026.sgm:."</p><P>From the ca&ntilde;on we emerge on a tableland and before a most beautiful panorama.  Far to the southeast Tia Juana, farther in the same course the sierra of San Ysidro, over which passes our southern boundary line. Between the two those grand elevations in Lower California that are known as Table Mountain and Moro; yet farther eastward Tecat&eacute; Mountain. Before us the broad breast of Cuyamaca, covered with dark masses of forest, nearer, below it, Custom House <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:father had a good spring, and the river runs always to that point, which is called the head of the rancho. There is el Cajon proper, the Box, so called from the contour of the lofty land surrounding it.  The locality of Don Jos&eacute; Maria is rightly denominated Santa Monica, and extends to the father's old house.  At El Cajon the Mission Fathers had a vineyard.  Long. neglected, it is near ruined.  Some of its Vines have taken hold of the highest trees and give delicious grapes, as late as 1863 Mr. John Brown, of San Diego, made an excellent wine there.  Frost is not early, but it is very cold here when Santa Ysabel and Cuyamaca are mantled in snow. Cuyamaca is visible from Don Jos&eacute; Maria's door. There the river is 250 feet wide.</p><P>From where the river enters the rancho, until buried in the <HI REND="italics">canon de la presa</HI>
026.sgm:, its course is near due west, lined with cottonwood, sycamore, willow, oak, and ash above the rancho boundary.  There is a great deal of oak, both <HI REND="italics">roble</HI>
026.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">encino</HI>
026.sgm:, as well as cottonwood, alamo as well as <HI REND="italics">alamillo</HI>
026.sgm:.  It has the common willow and the <HI REND="italics">sauce chino</HI>
026.sgm:, from which saddle-trees are made.  In the gorge of the dam there is much valuable oak, but difficult to get at.  Bunch grass, <HI REND="italics">zacate mateado</HI>
026.sgm:, abounds between the river and the hills. The pasturage is excellent.  In the dry season of 1864-65 great herds were brought from Los Angeles to be kept in the valley of Cuyamaca and its neighborhood. The winter's cold drove them down upon El Cajon.  Don Jos&eacute; Maria says in March 1865 a rodeo was made which must have had at least 5000 head of cattle in it, all from those mountains or neighboring ranchos. This rancho is now almost a wilderness, for Don Jos&eacute; Maria has but a small flock now.  One great feature of its ancient usefulness yet remains, <HI REND="italics">la presa</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>This is the dam built by the Fathers to supply water at the Mission of San Diego. With his fresh carriage-horses in our buggy, Don Jos&eacute; Maria drove me down the left bank, through heavy timber, to the bed of the river, within a hundred yards of the dam.  A little above this the river divides into two branches, leaving a rising timbered piece between them.  Doubtless this breaks the force of the flood, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:and propped on the outside by small rocks solidly cemented. From this point Don Jos&eacute; Maria has carried off all the bricks for a chimney.</p><P>We returned to his house on a level, good road, and over a tract that would make several splendid farms, in the right hands.</p><P>The Dam belongs to this rancho.  Above until reaching Cuyamaca there is no other Mexican grant. In general the river runs as far as Santa Monica till July, and all the year to the head of the rancho.  With similar dams sufficient water might be collected, not only to fill this ranchowith orchards and vineyards, but to bring into extensive cultivation the mesa over which we passed in the morning, and supply every house in the port of San Diego. Don Jos&eacute; Maria says, by our road we came 19 miles; on horseback he had made it ahead of us that same morning in 15 miles; which is the old road of the Fathers and can be put in good order with very little cost.</p><P>A lunch with the family, then to the tableland at a different point from that of the morning, pausing awhile for a glance at the mountain Views before us, the tops of Paguay, Palomar, Cuyamaca, Lyons' Mt., Tecat&eacute;, San Ysidro, San Miguel, with the valley of Santa Maria twelve miles distant, an emerald set high in the shining wall.</p><P>Passing the Mission, we hailed Don Anastasio, forcing him to take pay for his tin coffee pot in which we had carried his <HI REND="italics">regalo</HI>
026.sgm: of cured olives, forgotten to bring it back.</p><P>Note, 1875:  El Cajon was sold by the heirs for about $50,000; has been finally partitioned among the purchasers; is covered with improved farms and has proved, for grain, scarcely second to any land in the State.  B. H.</p><P>SAN DIEGO MISSION</p><P>In 1848, Mr. Philip from Crosthwaite had a lease of it from Col. Stevenson.  The outhouses, mechanics' shops, oil factory, weaving establishment, the Indian habitations in 1845, when he first saw it, were all clustered much further down the valley and on the south side of the river, in front of Ca&ntilde;ada de la Soledad.  Sergeant Brown of the Mormon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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026.sgm:was soon settled.  The archives often mention Jatinill in commendatory terms.  In the threatened Indian troubles, he appears in the attitude of "holding the balance of power.  His relative, Pachecho, is a man respected among his race, and well thought of amongst the whites of that section. Jatinill Still lives, old and blind. About two years ago Don Manuel Machado happened to visit Alamo, the residence of Jatinill, and found him very sick. The old man begged him to baptize him, which was done, Don Manuel believing that he was at the point of death. So Jatinill is now <HI REND="italics">Cristiano</HI>
026.sgm: and not <HI REND="italics">Gentil</HI>
026.sgm:.  An only daughter takes care of him. His name means black dog-- <HI REND="italics">Chuchu prieto</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>By this name he is commonly spoken of.  His family name is Hatam, by baptism Jos&eacute; Manuel Pol-lon, this last appellative being added from his godfather, a Christian Indian so called.</p><P>Manuel was born at Santa Catarina. When a young boy he was sought of his parents, by Padre Manuel, one of the founders of the frontier missions, to be baptized, and became one of the Santa Catarina Mission.  Many years ago Padre Feliz sent ten Descanso boys and ten from Santa Catarina--of these last he was one--to work at Los Angeles, as vaqueros and in other employments.  He worked there for Don Dolores Sepulveda.  The past fourteen years, with one daughter, survivor of his ten children, he has lived at San Diego, during most of this time Captain of the rancheria of this place, nearly all of which, like himself, are <HI REND="italics">Abaje&ntilde;os</HI>
026.sgm:.</p><P>He thinks he must be near 100 years of age, but this can scarcely be so.  He keeps a good watch over his people, few of whom ever come under the notice of the civil authorities.  He speaks the Santo Tomas tongue, and says that this is the language of all the Indians from Santo Tomas north to our line and from the Pacific Coast to San Rafael and into the Santa Catarina mountains. Below Santo Tomas, from San Vicente to Rosario, and back to San Pedro Martir, Valle de la Trinidad, etc., the language is wholly different.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:occupied (for she was reared in this house), and the trees she well recognized in his garden from which she plucked the fruit in her girlhood.  Those trees were older than the oldest inhabitant (Do&ntilde;a Felipa Osuna de Marron, born May 9, 1809).</p><P>On the hillside are the remains of the former residence of Don Bonifacio Lopez, and nearby the broken adobe walls of the corral where "the King" brought his cattle and horses to be branded, or for safety from Indian incursions. Part of this runs down into the garden of my friend George Lyons. I am on Washington Street, to be Seen entering Old Town from the north.</p><P>After the death of her husband Do&ntilde;a Josefa continued his business here for a time.  When I first saw Fitch Street it consisted first of the Aguilar house, next the house of Don Juan M. Osuna, then the house owned by Fitch and J. Snook.  On the opposite side of the narrow street stood a two-story, dark red building used by Fitch as a store, with the once-fine garden prized by Do&ntilde;a Josefa.</p></DIV>
026.sgm:</BODY><BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:, 191, 192, 205, 268<LB>Sep&uacute;lveda, Diego, 118, 154<LB>Sep&uacute;lveda, Jos&eacute;, 170, 236, 246<LB>Sep&uacute;lveda, Ygnacio, xi, 176<LB>Serra, Fr. Jun&iacute;pero, 138<LB>Serrano Indians, 275<LB>Serrano, J. A., x, 142, 285-8<LB>Serrano, Do&ntilde;a Nievas A. de, x, 285<LB>Serrano, Leandro, 65, 112, 141<LB>Sisters of Charity in Los Angeles, 172<LB>Slover, Isaac, and wife Do&ntilde;a Barbara, 104, 274-5<LB>Smallpox, 281 et seq.<LB>Smith, Jedediah S., 53<LB>Socorro, New Mexico, 27, 38, 40, 47<LB>Soledad Rancho, 120, 225<LB>Soto, Lorenzo, 131, 133, 141-2, 158<LB>Stearns, Abel, 72, 93, 121, 146, 155, 221, 261<LB>Steele, Frank, 145, 197<LB>Stockton, Com. R. F., 201<LB>Stockton trail, 23, 27, 37<LB>Stockton, Mrs. W. M., 181<LB>Sublette, Andrew, 19<LB>Tannery, on Rose ranch, 128<LB>Taos, New Mexico, 19<LB>Tejon Indians, 95<LB>Temascal, 65, 66, 142<LB>Tem&eacute;cula, 65, 141, 146, 152, 214, 221<LB>Tem&eacute;cula Pass, 213, 221-2<LB>Temple, John, 151, 152, 252<LB>Temple Block, 174<LB>Thom, C. E., 187<LB>Tibbetts, Col. George, 149, 200, 201, 224, 225<LB>Trujille, Lorenzo, and family, 148, 271<LB>Tucson, 43, 44, 263<LB>Turtle hunting, 158</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
026.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
026.sgm:<P>Ubach, Rev. Fr. A., 296<LB>Vallejo, Ignacio, 138<LB>Vallejo, Mariano G., 138, 153<LB>Varela, Serbo, note 198<LB>Vergennes, Petit de, 192<LB>V&eacute;jar, Ricardo, 190, 217<LB>Vignes, Luis, 97, 146, 221<LB>Warner, J. J., 49 et seq., 94, 120, 153, 227. 263<LB>Warner's Ranch, 46 et seq., 288<LB>Weller, J. B., 106, 169<LB>Whaling at San Diego, 196 et seq. 229, 231, 232-5<LB>White emigrant party, 32<LB>White, Michael, 88, 89<LB>Williams, Col. Isaac, 66-8, 73.4, 146, 147, 217-19<LB>Willis, Henry, 280<LB>Wilson, B. D., 90, 93, 94, 97, 151, 175, 176, 186, 187, 282 note<LB>Witherby, Judge O. S., 204, 206<LB>Wolfskill, Wm., 79, 87, 98, 138, 166, 174<LB>Ybarra, Andr&eacute;s, 120, 131, 143, 162, 225<LB>Ybarra, Ramon, 98<LB>Yorba, Bernardo, 46<LB>Yorba, J. A., 198, 282 note<LB>Yorba, Teodosio, 111<LB>Yorba, Zenobia, 217<LB>Yuma, Fort, 262</p></DIV>
027.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-027</TITLE>
027.sgm:<TITLE>`A la California.  Sketch of life in the Golden state.  By Col. Albert S. Evans.  With an introduction by Col. W.H.L. Barnes; illustrations from original drawings by Ernest Narjot: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
027.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
027.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
027.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
027.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
027.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
027.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
027.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc01-852</LCCN>
027.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
027.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>6636</COPYRIGHT>
027.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<illus entity="a027-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>QUI VIVE LA?</P>
027.sgm:<P>A LA<LB>CALIFORNIA.<LB>SKETCHES OF LIFE<LB>IN THE GOLDEN STATE.</P>
027.sgm:<P>By COL. ALBERT S. EVANS.<LB>Author of "Our Sister Republic."</P>
027.sgm:<P>WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY COL. W. H. L. BARNES, AND ILLUSTRATIONS<LB>FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS BY ERNEST NARJOT.</P>
027.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO:<LB>A. L. BANCROFT &amp; COMPANY,<LB>Publishers, Booksellers and Stationers.<LB>1873.</P>
027.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1873,<LB>By A. L. BANCROFT &amp; COMPANY,<LB>In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.</P>
027.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>TO MY MOTHER,</P>
027.sgm:<P>IN TOKEN OF AFFECTIONATE REMEMBRANCE,</P>
027.sgm:<P>THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED BY HER LONG ABSENT SON.</P>
027.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>AUTHOR'S PREFACE.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>SOME years since my deeply lamented friend, the late Albert D. Richardson, who keenly appreciated Western character, called my attention to the fact that the first chapter in the history of California, following the American occupation of the country, and the discovery of gold, was drawing rapidly to a close; and, under the influence of railroads and the telegraph, and the influx of a different class of immigrants from the older Atlantic States, society would soon lose its distinctive character.  He suggested that I should collect and prepare for publication a portion of the fund of anecdotes illustrative of the reckless, adventurous, stirring life of the generation now passing away, which he knew I had accumulated personal observation, believing that the material was worth perserving, and that the reading public would appreciate the labor and enjoy perusal of the book.  The suggestion struck me favorably; and I commenced the work immediately, following it until the volume was more than half completed, when I was called away to the tropics, and the project was for the time abandoned.  It is only recently that I have been able to resume the work and push it to completion.  I have not endeavored to produce a statistical work upon California, and do not think it would have paid me if I had, but to give a vivid and truthful picture of scenes for the most part unfamiliar to the residents of the older States of the Union, avoiding, so far as might be, traveling in the beaten track of tourists, and the discussion of subjects already grown hackneyed and tiresome to the general reader.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The book, I think, will repay perusal, and if it does not, the reader will at least have the consolation of knowing that the author is after all the greatest loser in the operation.</P>
027.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>MY lamented friend, Col. Albert S. Evans, was engaged upon this book for some time prior to his death.  Of its success he entertained confident expectations, and had spared no pains to render it attractive in every respect.</P>
027.sgm:<P>He perished in the unfortunate disaster by which the steamship "Missouri" was burned at sea in October, 1872, while on her passage from New York towards Havana; and his work has thus unexpectedly fallen on those who had no other thought than one of sympathy with him in his hopes of its success, financially as well as in a literary point of view.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The author was quite widely and favorably known from his long connection with journalism and previous literary efforts.  To a large circle of friends he was endeared by admirable social qualities and a career of unswerving integrity.  Whatever may be the judgment of careful critics as to the merits of this posthumous publication, to those who knew him it will have a value beyond the reach of any standard of letters.  It is the final and unfinished work of his day of life, and for that reason, if no other, they will cherish it.  It is, alas! one of the few presently available resources of a desolated family; and for that reason, if no other, they will cheerfully, I am sure, contribute towards its pecuniary success.</P>
027.sgm:<P>That it has high literary merit, will not be doubted.  To other  than Californian readers it will commend itself by the freshness and vitality of its style, and the charming though rather strongly localized character of its descriptions and incidents.  Doubtless there is somewhat of incompleteness in the detail and final arrangement of its parts, which would have been remedied, and perhaps <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>To those who may have to deal with it in the way of book notices, may be suggested the propriety of distinguishing between what are or might have been remediable faults, and those which are inherent in the nature of the undertaking.</P>
027.sgm:<P>To the public of our own city and State it commends itself as a work of strong local interest, embodying, in a permanent and attractive form, much that otherwise would have early perished from sight and memory; as the production of one of our own citizens; as the resource of an interesting family, which has been doubly bereaved in the sudden death of husband and father; and it appeals forcibly to that sentiment of generous sympathy for the living and regret for the dead, which is so singularly characteristic of Californian social life.</P>
027.sgm:<P>WM. H. L. BARNES.</P>
027.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, May, 1873.</P>
027.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>DEDICATION.--INTRODUCTION.--AUTHOR'S PREFACE.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>MY FIRST PASEAR.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The Sierra Morena, and the Redwood Forest of San Mateo and Santa Cruz.--The Sportsman's Paradise.--Looking back at the Golden City.--Yesterday and To-day.--Along the Bay of San Francisco.-The Valley of San Andreas.--Harry Linden's Speculation in Oats.--Good Resolutions and what came of them.--A Dream of Tropic Life.--An Evening in the Mountains.-A Scene of Wonderful Beauty.--The AvalanChe from the Pacific.-Descending the Mountain by Moonlight.--The End of my Pasear.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER II.<LB>IN THE MISTS OF THE PACIFIC.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The Crystal Springs.--The Music of the Night.--The California Night Singer and the Legend of the Easter Eggs.--The Ca&ntilde;ada del Reymundo.--Over the Sierra Morena.-Down the Coast.--Pescadero and its Surroundings.-Pigeon Point and the Wrecks.--A Shipwrecked Ghost.--The Coast Whalers and their Superstitions.--An Embarcadero on the San Mateo Coast.--Ride to Point A&ntilde;o Nuevo.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER III.<LB>IN THE MISTS OF THE PACIFIC.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Steele's Ranch.--The Model Dairy of California.--Captain Graham.--A Semi-Tropical Garden.--Frightful Contest with a Grizzly.--Bear and for-Bear.The True King of Beasts.--The Model of Conservatism.--How the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER IV.<LB>PESCADERO TO SANTA CRUZ.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Down the Coast toward Santa Cruz.--The Moss and Shell Beaches of Pescadero.--A Disgusted Hunter.--A Grizzly Bear Procession.--A Mutual Surprise and Double Stampede.--The Bear Fever.--The Buck Fever and the Prairie-Hen Fever.--How Jim Wheeler killed the Buck.--How Old S. killed three at one shot.--A Spanish-American Gentleman of Scientific Attainments and Undoubted Veracity.--View of the Bay of Monterey and the valley and Mountains of Santa Cruz.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER V.<LB>SANTA CRUZ AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The Bay of Santa Cruz and its Surroundings.--The Natural Bridge.--Mussel men, their Dangers and Delight.--Adventure with a Sea-Lion.-Uninvited Guest at a Pic-nic.--An Embarcadero.--Sea Bathing.--Big Trees of Santa Cruz.--Caves.--Mountain Rides.--Supposed Ruins.--Up the Valley of the San Lorenzo.--The Mountain Honeysuckle and Madro&ntilde;o.--Over the Mountains again.--The Redwood.--And what a Fall was there my Countrymen!--How they broke Jail.--Down the Valley of Los Gatos.--Strange Rise and Fall of the Streams of the Coast Range,--Out of the Wilderness.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VI.<LB>IN THE STREETS OF SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Cosmopolitanism of San Francisco.--Its Street Panoramas and Pictures and Sounds.--An Autumn Morning.--The "Barbary Coast."--The Chinese Missionary.-Factory Hands on Holiday.--Funeral of Ah Sam.--A Chinese Faction-fight.--An Equestrian Outfit.--The Poundmaster's Van.  General Stampede, its Cause and its Course.--The Pine-apple Plant.--The Passers-by.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VII.<LB>TAMALPAIS.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Where it is Situated.--Some Speculation as to the Signification of the name and its Possible Origin.--Our Start for the Mountains.--The Trip to San Rafael and Adventures by the Way.--Ascending the Mountain.--First Blood.--The View of the Bay and City of San Francisco.--Mount Diablo puts in an Appearance.--At the Summit.--A Bear-faced Fraud.--Fine Study of a Fog-Bank.--A Faithless Guide.--Wandering in the Mist.--Out of the Woods.-An Afternoon's Sport.--A Painful Subject.--Adios, Tamalpais.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>NAPA VALLEY AND MT. ST. HELENA.</P>
027.sgm:<P>From San Francisco to Vallejo.--What we saw while crossing the Bay of San Pablo.-The Valley of Napa.--A Moonlight Evening in the Mountains.--Calistoga by Moonlight and Sunlight.--The Baths.--Hot Chicken Soup Spring.--The Petrified Forest of Calistoga.--The Great Ranch and Vineyards.--Ascent of Mount St. Helena.--What we saw from the Summit.--Reminiscences of the Flood.--Story of the Judge and the Stranger.--Presently, sir! Presently!--Good Joke on the Robbers.--What happened to me in Arizona.--A Good Story, but too appreciative audience.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER IX.<LB>WAITING UNDER THE MADRONO.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Dreaming of the Tropics Again.-The Honey Bee.--In California.--A Good Joke on the Bear.--On the Red Desert.--In the Valley of Shadow.--Fair Alfaretto.--Burning of the Mezquites.--The Curse of the White Man.--A Wild Night's Ride in the Sierra.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER X.<LB>AROUND THE MOUNTAIN CAMP FIRE.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The Fountain of Youth.--Hunting for Trouble.--Mike Durfee's Snake.--The Dogs of '49.-A Tragedy in the Redwoods.--When shall we three meet again?--Story of the Champion Mule of El Dorado.--How a Green Down-Easter struck it rich.--Result of Misplaced Confidence.--Sensational Reports Depreciated.--Out-door amusements in Arizona.--An Album in Camp.--The Mountains by Moonlight.--Parting under the Madro&ntilde;o.--Adios!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XI.<LB>THE CHINESE FEAST OF THE DEAD.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Weird and Ghastly Scene in a Chinese Temple at Midnight.--The Story of Concatenation Bill.--The True History of the Great Indian Fight on the Gila.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XII.<LB>A CRUISE ON THE BARBARY COAST.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Night Scenes in San Francisco.--Low Life.--Scene in a Recently Suppressed Gambling House.--Visit to the Chinese Quarter.--How John Chinaman loses his Money.--The Thieves and Rounders of San Francisco.--How they Live and where they Lodge.--The Dance-Cellars.--Opium Dens and Thieves' Ordinaries of the Barbary Coast.-How the San Francisco Police treat old offenders, etc., etc.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>FROM THE ORIENT DIRECT.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Arrival of a China Steamer at San Francisco.--Her Passengers and Cargo.--A Horseback Trip to Mount Diablo.--Ascending the Mountain.--The Magnificent View from the Summit.</P>
027.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>EARLY TIMES.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The Days of '49 and '52.--How they administered the Law in Tuolumne County, and Justice in Sierra.--Old Put and Judge Hollowbarn.--Pike's "Sasherarer."--Peart Times on Rabbit Creek.--.A Game that was Spoiled.--An Appeal that wouldn't hold, and Prediction that wouldn't do to bet upon.--Stories of Wagers.--Insulted Dignity Avenged.--Base Ingratitude.--Dead Or Alive?--Drowned or Not?--A Glass-eye Bet.</P>
027.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I. MY FIRST PASEAR</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>The Sierra Morena and the Redwood Forest of San Mateo and Santa Cruz.--The Sportsman's Paradise.--Looking back at the Golden City.--Yesterday and To-day.--Along the Bay of San Francisco.--The Valley of San Andreas.--Harry Linden's Speculation in Oats.--Good Resolutions and what came of them.--A Dream of Tropic Life.--An Evening on the Mountains.--A Scene of Wonderful Beauty.--The Avalanche from the Pacific.--Descending the Mountain by Moonlight.--The End of my <HI REND="italics">Pasear.</HI>
027.sgm:<P>STRETCHING away southward from the Golden Gate, at the northern point of the peninsula of San Francisco, through San Mateo, Santa Cruz, Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and San Diego Counties, in Alta California, and thenCe on down through the entire peninsula of Lower California to Cape St. Lucas, on the border of the tropics, is an almost unbroken range of mountains, known at different points by different names, and presenting the wildest Variety of scenery to be found in any mountain range in North America.</P>
027.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>Just back of the Mission Dolores, on the southern boundary of the city of San Francisco, they rise from low hills into minor mountains, and are known as the Bernal Heights, and Mission Mountains. Farther southward they increase in height, and become clothed in forest.  Twenty miles south of San Francisco they form a majestic sierra, and thence, for some distance, are designated as the Sierra Morena.  Still farther south they are known as the Coast Range of Santa Cruz, and farther yet as the Gabilan Mountains. Along this range, in San Mateo and Santa Cruz Counties, is one of the largest, if not the largest, of the redwood forests of California. This forest-belt is from ten to twenty miles in width from east to west, and from thirty to forty miles in length from north to south, and contains timber enough to build twenty San Franciscos.  The redwoods nowhere come down to the Pacific coast, and the traveler on the San Francisco and San Jos&eacute; Railroad catches so few glimpses of them that he would never dream of the existence of such a forest; while from the decks of passing steamers one sees only small patches of them in the ca&ntilde;ons, miles back in the interior. The giant redwood--to which family the big trees of Tuolumne, Calaveras, and Mariposa Counties belong--flourishes best at a high elevation and in a warm, moist atmosphere. This great forest, like that of Mendocino, crowns the mountains with tropical luxuriance, and is watered by the mists which, rising for a considerable part of the year from the bosom of the Pacific, are driven inland by the trade-winds and condensed on the mountain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:slopes, keeping the rank vegetation which clothes them almost perpetually dripping.  The redwoods themselVes rise to a height of one to three hundred feet or more, and attain immense size.  Beneath their shade springs up an almost impenetrable undergrowth of flowering shrubs and trees--California lilac, tea-oak, pine, ceonotus, laurel, or the fragrant bay, buckeye, manzanita, poison-oak, the giant California honeysuckle, which, half bush, half vine, rises to a height of ten to twenty feet, and from its thousands of trumpet-shaped flowers, tinted like the wild crab-apple blossoms, loads the atmosphere with a delicious perfume and last, but not least, the madro&ntilde;o, pride of the forest, and fairest of all the trees of earth.  These woods are for the most part in a native state.  Here and there the axe and saw-mill have made sad havoc, but in the more mountainous and least accessible localities the forest stretches unbroken for miles and miles, and silence reigns supreme.  Horse trails are few, and the dense undergrowth and the ruggedness of the country make traveling almost impossible.  Here the grizzly bear hides in security, and from his mountain fastnesses sallies forth at intervals to forage on the flocks and herds, orchards and gardens, that dot the lowlands. Here also the California lion ,wolf, fox, mink, raccoon, wild-cat, lynx, deer, eagle, and great vulture abound, within hearing of the whistle of the locomotive which sweeps through the valley of Santa Clara, and almost within reach of the echoes of the guns of Alcatraz, and the bells of the Golden City. It is still, to the great majority of the residents even of San Francisco, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<HI REND="italics">terra incognita</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Parties of ladies and gentlemen from San Francisco, San Mateo, Santa Clara, San Jose, Santa Cruz, and Pescadero, skilled in woodcraft and wise in the ways of adepts with the gun and rod, make excursions into this tangled wilderness, camp out, hunt, fish, pic-nic, and enjoy themselves for weeks at a time annually; but to the general tourist and the great world at large the country is as little known as the savage and inhospitable wilderness of central and northern Australia.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Between this forest and mountain country, and the shore of the Pacific, there is a narrow but productive farming and grazing country, but seldom visited by travelers, as it lies off the main lines of communication, though quite readily accessible from San Francisco.  This too has its attractions for the tourist who is not sight-seeing by the guide-book, and much that is novel, curious, and enjoyable may always be found there.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The Spanish language has many words and terms having no equivalent in the English tongue, which are so identified with the geography and every-day life of California that they have become engrafted upon our local vernacular, and must forever form a part of it.  Among the most expressive of these is the <HI REND="italics">pase&aacute;r</HI>
027.sgm:. Literally it means to walk, or to take out upon a walk, but conventionally it is a journey <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:devoid of business object, a quiet pleasure jaunt, a trip for rest, relaxation from care and toil, for recreation.  When the lazy days of summer come, you ask for your San Francisco friend the doctor, the lawyer, clergyman, or merchant, and the chances are that you will be told "he has gone on a <HI REND="italics">pase&aacute;r</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The country of which I have been speaking is just the country for an enjoyable <HI REND="italics">pase&aacute;r</HI>
027.sgm:<P>It was a bright September afternoon when I started on my last <HI REND="italics">pase&aacute;r</HI>
027.sgm: out toward the Sierra Morena, mounted on brave old Don Benito, a veteran campaigner in Algiers and Mexico, who had borne me many a weary mile over the hot sands of the desert, up and down the red mountains, and through the Apache-haunted wilds of Arizona. My son and namesake,--I would say heir, were it not that it would seem like A. Ward's last joke, in view of the present extent of my landed estates and the condition of my exchequer,-----as bold a rider a skillful fisherman as any boy of twelve may be; accompanied me, mounted on his plucky and spirited little California mustang, his pet and companion for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:years.  Out through the dusty streets of the city proper, and through the Mission Dolores, we rode at a gallop, and only paused, at length, to allow our fretting horses a moment's rest, and look back upon the city we were so gladly leaving behind us, from the heights beyond Islais Creek.  It is, after all, a goodly city, and a goodly sight to look upon from these hills; and as we look down upon it, and upon the ancient mission which stood there, as it stands to-day, when the site of San Francisco was a track-less, uninhabited waste, the beautiful lines of one of California's most gifted writers, Ira D. Colbraith, come vividly to our memory:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Little the goodly Fathers,<LB>Building their Mission rude,<LB>By the lone untraversed waters,<LB>In the western solitude,<LB>"Dreamed of the wonderful city,<LB>That looks on the stately bay<LB>Where the bannered ships of the nations<LB>Float in their pride to-day;<LB>"Dreamed of the beautiful city,<LB>Proud on her tawny height,<LB>And strange as a flower upspringing<LB>To bloom in a single night.<LB>"For lo! but a moment lifting<LB>The veil of the years away,<LB>We look on a well-known picture<LB>That seems hut as yesterday.<LB>"The mist rolls in at the Gateway<LB>Where never a fortress stands,<LB>O'er the blossoms of Sancelito,<LB>And Yerba Buena's sands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:"Swathing the shores where only The sea-birds come and pass, And drifts with the drifting waters, By desolate Alcatraz;<LB>"We hear, when night droops downward, And the bay throbs under the stars, The ocean voices blending With ripple of soft guitars;<LB>"With chiming bells of the Mission, With passionate minors sung, Or a quaint Castilian ballad Trilled in the Spanish tongue.<LB>"Fair from thy hills, O city, Look on the beautiful bay! Prouder far is the vision Greeting our eyes to-day;<LB>'Better the throng&eacute;d waters, And the busy streets astir, Purple and silken raiment, Balsam and balm and myrrh;<LB>"Gems of the farther Indies, Gold of thine own rich mine, And the pride and boast of the peoples, O beautiful queen, are thine!<LB>"Praise to the goodly Fathers, With banners of faith unfurled! Praise to the sturdy heroes Who have won thee to the world!"</HI>
027.sgm:<illus entity="a027-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LEAVING TOWN.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Descending from these heights, the road--the San Bruno turnpike--winds in and out for miles along the bluff shores of the Bay of San Francisco, and the views, changing at every turn, are wonderfully diversified and beautiful.  At one point we saw a land-locked basin, in which a dozen Italian fishermen's boats lay rocking idly, and at another we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Leaving the shore of the bay at last, some ten or twelve miles from San Francisco, we galloped over an open plain, and at San Bruno crossed the Southern Pacific Railroad track, and turned by a by-road into a long, winding ca&ntilde;on leading up to the summit of a range of hills to the westward, between which and the higher and forest-crowned Sierra Morena, still farther on towards the sea, lies, hidden wholly from the outer world, the lovely valley of San Andreas.  The plain upon the western shore of the bay, and all the Contra Costa and Alameda valley and hill country on the eastern side, was brown, and dry, and sear as it ever is in the interior of California in summer and autumn; and the valley of San Andreas, embowered in shade, and the cool, green, mist-nourished forests on the mountains beyond <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The Spring Valley Water Company, which derives its water supply for San Francisco from the head of the Pillarcitos Creek, in the redwoods, some forty miles south of the city, and has a beautiful lake for a reservoir in the mountains, was here building another reservoir, equal in size to anything on the continent.  A dam, seventy feet high, with foundations sixty feet deep, has been thrown across the valley and the waters of the San Andreas, thus thrown back, form a lake two miles and a half long, and containing one thousand million gallons.  This is held as a reserve supply for dry seasons.  John Chinaman did the work, with white men as superintendents, and, as is his custom, did it well.  He was then at work, in the same quiet, methodical way, making bricks for the barriers of the flood-gates. John is a law unto himself, and can do a wonderful amount of minding his own business within a given time.  Pay him regularly what you agree to, give him his New Year's holidays, and a chance to supply himself with chicken and duck for his Sunday dinner and rice for his regular daily rations at fair rates, and he is contentment itself.  The question of woman suffrage does not worry him, eight-hour laws he holds in contempt, and no lazy, jaw-working demagogues can fool him with their plausible sophistries into agrarian combinations, strikes, and riots. He is a philosopher in his way, and not without claims to respect and better treatment than he usually gets from his Caucasian "betters,"</P>
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027.sgm:<P>Winding down the hill-side and around the great reservoir, we enter the valley of San Andreas just as the sun is sinking in the roseate bank of fleecy mist which, like a great snow-drift, is piled up against the mountains on the west to their very summits. The bare plain, and brown, verdureless hills weary the eye no longer, but instead fresh green chaparral and tall, full-foliaged trees stretch out on every side, and we ride down a road embowered with shrubbery, and dark with the cool shadows of evening. Coveys of tufted quail rise and whirr away as we gallop on, and rabbits creep into the bushes at every turn in the road.  At the entrance of a ca&ntilde;on stands a cottage, shaded by broad, spreading oaks and fragrant bay-trees; and by the door, book in hand, sits a fair young daughter of California, with great brown eyes, as beautiful as those of a sea-lion,--I can think of no more complimentary simile.  She tells us that game is swarming, and that there will be rare sport for the hunters after the 15th of September, when the prohibition on shooting is removed.  A huge grizzly took possession of the pasture on the hillside opposite the house some weeks previously, and stayed there undisturbed for a fortnight, only leaving when the wild clover, upon which he came to luxuriate, failed.  Deer are seen almost daily, and a few days before a lynx, or wild-cat, or California lion,--the women could not tell which,--came down to the cottage in broad daylight, caught a fowl, and sat down by the door to eat it.  A lady threw a shoe at the creature, which thereupon trotted off, with a growl, carrying his stolen dinner with him.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>How vivid is my recollection of my first <HI REND="italics">pase&aacute;r</HI>
027.sgm: in the valley of San Andreas!  I had started out from San Francisco at the urgent Solicitation of my old friend Col. Harry Linden, who then lived here upon an extensive mountain rancho, a part of the Dominge Feliz Rancho, determined to leave work and the wearing cares of business behind me, and have one good, quiet <HI REND="italics">pase&aacute;r</HI>
027.sgm: with him in his bachelor haunts in the hills.  I had brought along my gun and any amount of ammunition, with a good supply of fishing-tackle as well, and was determined to be up with the dawn and make it very lively indeed for everything which wore feathers, fur, or scales, during my stay.  In the early evening I arrived at the house, and was warmly welcomed by Harry, and introduced to the ladies of the family; it was not exactly a bachelor's lot after all, and Harry, as I found, was a boarder and a petted member of a pleasant and refined social circle, not the solitary tenant of a comfortless lumberman's or ranchero's cabin, as I had fancied him.  We left the ladies sitting under the trees, and went in to supper.  Harry has always been fancying himself a farmer, and many is the good joke that has been perpetrated upon him in the agricultural line.  At that time he had been doing a big thing in that way.  An enthusiastic farmer of Alameda County had imported, for seed, from Scotland, at great expense, a quantity of black Scotch oats, such as are used for making oatmeal in the "land o' cakes."  He was very choice with them; would only part with them at one dollar per pound, and, in his anxiety to introduce them as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:widely and generally as possible among the farmers of California, had made a positive rule to sell only one pound to any one individual.  Harry, not a whit less enthusiastic than himself, and, if possible, a. little more public-spirited, determined to have a field of those oats which would astonish the natives. So he went around among his friends, and got them to go one at a time to his importing friend, and purchase a pound of the precious oats, each on the pretext of desiring to plant them in their gardens to raise seed for hypothetical ranches in the country for next season.  His virtue and perseverance were fully rewarded.  He succeeded in getting together, in this manner, fifty-seven pounds of the coveted oats, which he proceeded to sow in a nicely prepared field of goodly extent.  He had sown many a field with oats of the wildest variety in his younger days, but never had he regarded the expected crop with such blissful anticipations as in this case.  He watched and waited.  Days grew into weeks, and weeks into months, and still no green sprout showed itself above the surface of that promising field. Painful doubts began to oppress his bosom.  He dug down and found some of the oats; they were just in the condition in which they were first put into the earth. Sore afflicted in mind, he waited yet a little longer, tried them again, and with the same result.  Then he hurried away to his friend, the public-spirited importer, and sought an explanation of the mystery.  It was easily given.  He, the importer, had written to a friend in Edinburgh for "One thousand pounds of black oats such as are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:best liked in Scotland for making oatmeal, clean and thoroughly dry before packing for shipment."  The order had been filled conscientiously. The best ones for making oatmeal are of course <HI REND="italics">kiln-dried</HI>
027.sgm:<P>No one ever had a larger stock in trade, in the shape of good resolutions, than myself.  I allow nobody to beat me in that line, whatever may be my short-comings in other matters.  After a glorious night's sleep I awoke with the warm sunlight pouring in at my window, and the sweet song of wild birds falling on my ears.  As I have said, I had come into this inexpressibly lovely and secluded valley to hunt wild game, and fish for mountain trout, and I arose with the firmest resolution to swallow a hasty and early breakfast, saddle up, and be off into the hills without the loss of a moment's time.  The matter or breakfast was soon disposed of, and I went out into the open air and the sunshine.  Great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:spreading buckeyes and California laurels, the fragrant bay, stood in groups all around the house; and between two gnarled tree trunks, in the fragrant shade, I saw a hammock swinging temptingly.  There was a world of romance and dreamy remembrances of other days and tropic climes in the sight, and--shall I say it?--the cherished daughter of the house, she of the soft rippling hair, and great brown eyes, sat near the hammock, in the shade, with an open book before her.  To see how it would seem to swing in a hammock in the shade once more, I stretched myself therein, and, to complete the reproduction of my dream of the tropics, drew out a bunch of fragrant cigarritas, genuine Havanas, from the factory of "the Widow of Garcia,"--rolled one, lighted it, and engaged in conversation with my fair young friend.  I found her highly educated, refined, accomplished, a glorious conversationalist, entertaining, and companionable.  The smoke of that cigarrita, and another, and another, and another, Went curling up in blue transparent wreaths, and floated lazily away.  The sunlight filtered through he leaves in rippling streams of golden glory, and the soft autumn breeze fanned my cheek and played caressingly with the locks upon my forehead, grey and harsh no more, but curly and raven-hued again, "in my mind's eye, Horatio."  The view down the valley, between hills on one side clad in deepest green, on the other in brightest gold, to the great Ca&ntilde;ada del Raymundo and the high, forest-crowned mountains of Santa Clara, enveloped ill, and glorified by, the soft blue haze of the September morning, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>I ought to say that I am ashamed of myself; but I am not.  I glory in my shame!  I would do it again, and think none the less of myself and my fellow-man--and woman--for so doing.  And so would you, my reader, or you are no friend of mine,--a blockhead, an idiot, a confirmed misanthrope, or something worse.  If you do not sympathize with me in this feeling, drop the book right here, and never take it up again; you and I will not do to travel together.</P>
027.sgm:<P>All earthly things end sometime and somewhere, and my siesta followed the rule.  At four o'clock I saddled up old Don Benito, who had been neighing and manifesting his impatience to be off for hours, and, with Linden, rode up a long, winding pathway in the ca&ntilde;on, through the thick, overhanging forest of laurel, madro&ntilde;o, live-oak, tea-oak <HI REND="italics">ceonotus</HI>
027.sgm:<P>On the summit of the range was a fine wheat-field of two or three hundred acres, and there the birds fairly swarmed.  We used our guns until the sport became such no longer, and then threw ourselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Looking westward, at our feet was a deep ca&ntilde;on, beyond which was another range of hills, or more properly mountains, the real coast range, shutting out the view of the sea.  These mountains are covered with a dark, redwood forest at the summit, kept dripping wet by the mist from the Pacific, which rolls up over them in an unceasing torrent, white as an Alpine avalanche, all day long.  An effect is here produced of which I despair of being able to give anything like an adequate description. The white vapor came rushing over to the eastward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The full, round moon was in the heavens, throwing her mellow light o'er all that fairy landscape, as we descended from the mountain height, and in fancy we were once more wandering in the mountains of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>After supper we sat.beneath the trees around the hospitable <HI REND="italics">casa</HI>
027.sgm: of our friend, and rehearsed the adventures and scenes of old times with a relish the stranger to wild frontier life can never know. Harry Linden is my senior by some years, and in the ordinary course of nature and civilized life should have lost his early penchant for Robinson Crusoe-like adventure; but such is the fascination of border life that I believe that at this very hour he would exchange all the comforts of the most elegant home in San Francisco or New York, and the best spring mattress ever made, for a seat by the camp-fire in Apache land, and a blanket and the warm sand of the desert for a bed,-and I am just boy enough to do the same at a moment's notice, did opportunity offer and duty permit.  Sitting here under the trees in the valley of San Andreas, surrounded by appreciative friends and the enjoyments of refined society, he tells us of a long-planned expedition to the least known of the island groups of the Pacific, how one of these days he means to have his vessel rigged, manned, and provisioned for the trip; and laugh as we may at the idea of his going on such a voyage at his age, nothing will shake his earnestness in the project, or make him admit for an instant a doubt of his ultimately carrying it out successfully.  This charm of danger needlessly incurred, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Next day my fair friend showed me where to fish for the largest trout, helped me with her own white hands to prepare the tackle, and took part with us in the sport  A few more hours of swinging in the hammock, the last cigarrito was smoked, the last story told, and reluctantly I bade my kind friends of the valley of San Andreas good-by, beneath the laurel--and the buckeye--trees, and, mounting old Don Benito, galloped away toward the Golden City.</P>
027.sgm:<P>We are always happier for having been happy once; and I have lived longer, and I hope better, and enjoyed life more, for the recollection of that first <HI REND="italics">pase&aacute;r</HI>
027.sgm: to the valley of San Andreas.  And here, as we meet again to-night, the pleasant memory comes back to us and we talk it over once again with keenest satisfaction.  In taking leave of our fair young friend I tell her that I start for Mexico in a few days for a long <HI REND="italics">pase&aacute;r</HI>
027.sgm: under tropic skies; and, as we ride away in the gloaming of the evening, she bows gravely, and, in the soft Castilian tongue, as is the custom of the people in Spanish lands, bids me " <HI REND="italics">Adios, Amigo</HI>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II. IN THE MISTS OF THE PACIFIC.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>The Crystal Springs.--The Music of the Night.--The California Night Singer and the Legend of the Easter Eggs.--The Ca&ntilde;ada del Reymundo.--Over the Sierra Morena.--Down the Coast.--Pescadero and its Surroundings.--Pigeon Point and the Wrecks.--A Shipwrecked Ghost.--The Coast Whalers and their Superstitions.--An Embarcadero on the San Mateo Coast.--Ride to Point A&ntilde;o Nuevo.</P>
027.sgm:<P>RIDING on southward down the valley of San Andreas in the cool, quiet evening, we came to the Crystal Springs, one of the most beautiful of the summer resorts in the vicinity of San Francisco. There is a fine, large hotel, with a broad piazza all around it, just the place to sit and smoke a good cigar, have a quiet talk with your friends, and admire the beauty of the surrounding scenery, brought out in all its loveliness by the full autumn moon which was pouring down its full flood of mellow light upon the scene.  The San Mateo Creek runs through a wild, tangled thicket in front of the house; parterres of flowers of every hue, in full bloom, till the intervening grounds; and on the west the steep mountain sweeps around in a grand curve, forming a magnificent amphitheatre beside which the Coliseum is but the toy playhouse of a child.  Away back in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:the air, cutting sharply against the horizon, stand great pines, from whose broad-spreading branches float long steamers of green-gray moss, giving an air of great age and venerableness to the forest. Densely wooded are all the intervening hill-sides with the fragrant laurel, tea-oak and many flowering shrubs interwoven with the glorious madro&ntilde;o, whose crown of bright-green leaves contrasts so pleasingly with its bark of brilliant scarlet-the madro&ntilde;o ought to be the favorite tree with the Fenian Brotherhood, who are so fond of seeing the green above the red.  Sitting on the broad piazza, in the cool evening, we hear the whistle of the locomotive at San Mateo, only four miles away over the hills to the eastward.  As the last faint echoes die away in the ca&ntilde;ons, a coyote wolf, which has been prowling stealthily in the vicinity of the hotel, sets up a sharp, shrill yell in answer. Other wolves, far and near--there may be half a dozen of them, but it seems as if there were a thousand--take up the cry, and in an instant the woods and the night are filled with music, <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Half a dozen huge Newfoundland dogs, good-natured, lazy fellows enough at the best, but anxious to convince the generous public that they are of some importance in the world, and make a show of earning their bread and butter now that their master is at home, roused from their slumbers by the howling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>When the wolves have decamped, and the dogs, with the air of conquering heroes, have returned from the bloodless Campaign, and turned in for the night, the cigars are smoked out and the stories told, our company breaks up, and we retire for the night.  Through the open window comes at intervals a sweeter music than that to which we have just been listening: the low, Sweet song of a little bird of the finch species, which is found, though not in great abundance, in all the coast range country of California.  This little night-singer stays concealed in the thickets all day, uttering no note to give notice of his whereabouts; but when the cool shadows of the evening fall it comes forth into the gardens, and through all the long hours of the otherwise silent night, pours out its sweet and plaintive song as if in mourning for the loved and lost.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Then the story of the Easter-night singer of far-off Palestine, as I had heard it told in other lands, came back me; and going home I read with fresh interest the beautiful lines by Fitzjames O'Brien:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>You have heard, my boy, of the One who died,<LB>Crowned with keen thorns and crucified;<LB>And how Joseph the wealthy--whom God reward--<LB>Cared for the corpse of the martyred Lord,<LB>And piously tombed it within the rock,<LB>And closed the gate with a mighty block.</HI>
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027.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">"Now, close by the tomb, a fair tree grew,<LB>With pendulous leaves and blossoms of blue;<LB>And deep in the green tree's shadowy breast<LB>A beautiful singing-bird on her nest,<LB>Which was bordered with mosses like malachite<LB>And held four eggs of an ivory white.<LB>"Now, when the bird from her dim recess<LB>Beheld the Lord in his burial dress,<LB>And looked on the heavenly face so pale,<LB>And the dear feet pierced with the cruel nail,<LB>Her heart now broke with a sudden pang,<LB>And out of the depth of her sorrow she sang.<LB>"All night long, till the moon was up,<LB>She sat and sang in her moss-wreathed cup<LB>A song of sorrow, as wild and shrill<LB>As the homeless wind when it roams the hill;<LB>So full of tears, so loud and long,<LB>That the grief of the world seemed turned to song.<LB>"But soon there came, through the weeping night,<LB>A glimmering angel clothed in white;<LB>And he rolled the stone from the tomb away,<LB>Where the Lord of the earth and the heavens lay;<LB>And Christ arose in the cavern's gloom,<LB>And in living lustre came from the tomb.<LB>"Now the bird that sat in the heart of the tree<LB>Beheld the celestial mystery,<LB>And its heart was filled with a sweet delight,<LB>And it poured a song on the throbbing night;<LB>Notes climbing notes, still higher, higher,<LB>They shoot to heaven like spears of fire.<LB>"When the glittering, white-robed angel heard<LB>The sorrowing song of that grieving bird,<LB>And heard the following chant of mirth,<LB>That hailed Christ, risen from the earth,<LB>He said, `Sweet bird, be forever blest;<LB>Thyself, thy eggs, and thy moss-wreathed nest.<LB>"And ever, my child, since that blessed night,<LB>When death bowed down to the Lord of light,</HI>
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027.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The eggs of that sweet bird change their hue,<LB>And burn with led, and gold, and blue;<LB>Reminding mankind, in their simple way,<LB>Of the holy marvel of Easter-day."</HI>
027.sgm:<P>I know that in a little time the march of reason will sweep this old tradition, as it has already swept away others which were once regarded as essentials of the Christian faith; nevertheless I envied the simple, uneducated bird-catcher his childlike, unquestioning belief, and the song of the sweet night-singer of California will ever henceforth fall upon my ear more gratefully for its pleasant association with that story of holy marvel, which, although some of us may doubt, we must surely all alike admire.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The sun was high in the heavens, next day, when I said good-by to Albert at Crystal Springs, and rode away into the Sierra Morena Mountains.  It was a California autumn morning,--and, in saying that, I have left nothing unsaid in the way of description.  Turning southwestward, the road, one of the finest I have ever ridden over, winds round and round, in and out, along the steep sides of a deep, rocky carton, for miles, ascending by regular and easy grades the dividing ridge between the Bay of San Francisco and the Pacific Ocean.  When nearly at the summit I paused to rest my panting horse and look back upon the scene below.  And such a scene!  It was a variation of that described' in the story of my <HI REND="italics">pase&aacute;r</HI>
027.sgm:, but, if possible, even more entrancingly beautiful.  Eastward, the Bay of San Francisco, calm, unruffled, and blue, glittered in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:sun.  The ocean mists rolling in through the Golden Gate half hid the towns which skirt the bay.  The hills of Alameda, high and etherealized, rested like great straw-colored and purple clouds against the horizon; while Mount Diablo, monarch of the inland country, reared his dark head into the blue sky, above the mists and the lower mountains, like some great rocky island, seen from the shores of an unknown sea.  Southward, between the hills of San Mateo and the Sierra Morena, stretching away for miles toward the redwood-covered heights of Santa Clara, lay the ever-beautiful Ca&ntilde;ada del Reymundo.  Live-oak groves are scattered through it, and near its centre rests a quiet little lake, with an island of green tules in the middle.  All around the sides of the Valley, among the groves.in the little ca&ntilde;ons, nestle quiet farm-houses, ad in the centre, upon an elevated <HI REND="italics">mesa</HI>
027.sgm:, stands the last relic of the old semi-feudal Spanish-American times.  This is an adobe house of one story, with broad veranda, formed by the wide roof being carried out all around.  No garden, no grainfields, not a single fruit-tree flourishes near it.  The ranchero who built it and dwelt here among his herds, and paid tribute to the Holy Mother Church and the Most Catholic monarch, Don Carlos "of Spain, and India King," some eighty years ago, thought the country capable of no higher improvement, and dreamed not of the paradise it was to become when he and his should give place to the stranger who dwelt beyond the great Sierra Nevada somewhere.  He built no roads, planted no trees, and left behind only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:??? low-roofed <HI REND="italics">jaical</HI>
027.sgm:<P>On again.  One of those curious blue-and-brown birds, with peaked cap and tail as disproportionately long as that of a peacock, called here a "Road Runner," and in Mexico " <HI REND="italics">El Correro del Camino</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The flying mists, which had been scudding in broken clouds over the sierra, lifted and rolled away as I crossed the summit and began to descend towards Spanish Town.  The Pillaritos Creek murmured hundreds of feet below, in the narrow ca&ntilde;on, near the mouth of which, half hidden iii shade-trees, is the hamlet of Spanish Town.  Beyond rolls the deep-blue waters of the broad Pacific, and Half-Moon Bay lies a few miles to the northward.  I pass a wayside house where the yard is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>A woman with lustrous black hair and eyes, and oval, olive-hued face, comes out with her black shawl or <HI REND="italics">rebosa</HI>
027.sgm:, folded Andalusian fashion around her head and shoulders.  The Moors left those eyes, and that oval face and tawny-olive skin, in Spain; but the little girl who follows her has a fairer complexion, a sharper-cut face, and light-brown hair.  Thus, little by little, we are conquering Spanish-America. At a little roadside grocery a whole family of Mexican or native Californians are in attendance.  I called for a real's (ten cents) worth of apples, and they weighed me out four pounds; one holding the scales, another putting in the apples in a pail which a third held, while the rest looked on.  It took the whole family to sell just ten apples; but such is " <HI REND="italics">el costumbre del pais, se&ntilde;or'</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Two miles above Spanish Town, at the toll-gate, is a small, neat farm, owned by an intelligent American, past the meridian of life.  As he came out to take the toll, I engaged him in conversation.  He has one hundred and sixty acres, nearly one hundred of which are under cultivation.  In the valley he raises beans, onions, fruit, etc., and on the hilltops he has his early potato-fields, from which he sends to market the finest potatoes in December, January and February, after the lowland crops have become "old" and less salable, He has three acres of strawberries in full bearing.  These he irrigates, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Spanish Town contains little to attract a stranger. Turning southward here, the road runs through a rich, sloping plain, between the ocean and the mountains, and for eight on ten miles poses through one continued grainfield  The country was parceled out at first in great ranches of many thousand acres, each held under Spanish or Mexican grants.  These have been sold to Americans, and cut up to some extent into smaller portions, but the farms are still immense, and far too large for the most profitable cultivation.  Barley and oats, principally the latter, are cultivated.  The crop was cut months ago, but owing to the lack of "steamers," as the inhabitants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The great beets of California are among her vegetable wonders, and have often sorely taxed the credulity of Eastern people.  Californian though I am, I must own up that there is something just a trifle like an imposition on outsiders in this matter of the production of these mammoth beets.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The soil here is wonderfully rich, and often, as I have seen myself, from ten to twenty feet in depth, of a black loam, like that of the western prairies.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The road winds along the bold shore of the Pacific for miles-now passing over steep divides, and again descending to the bottom of precipitous ca&ntilde;ons.  At times the view of the ocean, for a long distance up and down the coast, is unobstructed, and from one height I counted not less than fifteen whales spouting at intervals as they sported in the calm blue waters, or sought their accustomed food <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Meeting by the way an old Mission Indian, who, as he told me, was born and had always lived near Pescadero, ad could hardly speak a word of English, though well posted in the Spanish tongue, I asked him how far it was to Pescadero.  "Possibly a mile, or a league, or two leagues, se&ntilde;or." "Well, how far is it to Point A&ntilde;o Nuevo?"  "Oh, se&ntilde;or, it must be a very long way!  I think it is in the neighborhood of the other world!"  I have never yet been able to get the remotest approximation to a correct statement of distance from a California Indian, those who were reared and educated by the old padres at the Spanish missions being as utterly ignorant on the subject as the diggers of the mountains, who never knew or cared to know anything beyond the condition of the grasshoppers on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>After a ride of thirty miles from Crystal Springs, done at a gallop, up hill and down, nearly all the way,' and in just four hours and ten minutes, I reached the little town of Pescadero, in a small but fertile valley some two miles from the ocean, a popular summer resort for San Franciscans, and a favorite head-quarters of the hunters and fishermen of the coast.  The long ride had given me a savage appetite, and as the fog had drifted in from the ocean, and shut down cold and damp on the landscape, a broiled trout dinner and a warm wood-fire never seemed more welcome than they did that evening at Pescadero.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The population of Pescadero does not exceed three hundred souls, who depend on the lumber-mills in the great redwood forest, the dairies, the grain and potato ranches, and summer visitors from San Francisco, for life and trade.  The heavy fogs, and cold, raw ocean winds are unfavorable to grapes and other fruits, but potatoes thrive wonderfully, and are extensively cultivated on the rich bottom lands around the town.  Half the "ground fruit" consumed in San Francisco comes from this section of the coast.  An old ranchero told me that for ten years the average price of potatoes had been one dollar and twenty-five cents per hundred pounds, and the usual yield from one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five bags, at one hundred and twenty-five Pounds each, per acre. The digging <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>My stay in Pescadero being limited, mine host of the Swanton House volunteered, Californian-like, to take me down the coast to see the sights.  A six-mile ride over an open, rolling country, devoted chiefly to grazing, brought us to Pigeon Point, a famous place for wrecks, and a depot of the coast whalers.  It gets its name from the wreck of the Carrier Pigeon, a noble clipper-ship which drifted in here one night in the winter of 1853-4, and was shattered To pieces upon the terrible reefs running out from the foot of the bold promontory.  Here, on the high headland, are clustered some dozen cottages, inhabited by the coast whalers and their families.  These men are all "Gees"--Portuguese--from the Azores or Western Islands.  They are a stout, hardy-looking race, grossly ignorant, dirty, and superstitious.  They work hard, and are doing well in business.  As we rode up, two long, sharp, single-masted boats, with odd-looking sails, shot out to sea.  On the Point, by the side of flag-staffs, on <illus entity="a027-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PIGEON POINT</P>
027.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Are there any whales about?  Oh, yes, plenty! and the speaker handed us his glass.  About three miles out was a large school of the black, hump hack species sporting in the nearly smooth sea, rising to the surface to blow, showing their black hacks, and going down again among the sardines on which they were feeding.  The boats run out with sails set, and do not take in their canvas until a whale is harpooned.  If a new school is discovered, the boats are signaled by the party on the Point. Looking through the glass we saw the boats running for different whales.  All was bustle and excitement on board, the harpooners standing in the bows ready to strike, and every man at his post. One of the signal men could speak a little English, and thus soliloquized for our benefit: "E blow, e blow!  One close herd starboard boat!  Carraho, now he run!  Ze son of seacook, how he run; dam a he!  Believe myself he get away!"  Then, carried away by his feelings, he proceeded to curse in good Portuguese, honestly and squarely, for fifteen minutes, and I felt my respect for him rising almost to the point of admiration.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Tired of watching, we at last started off to see what else there was of interest at the station, When we returned, near Evening, the boats were far down on the edge of the horizon, and had apparently fastened to a whale, while another large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:school was playing undisturbed within half. a mile of the shore.  The trypots were placed on the other side of the Point, and there we found a party of men busy extracting the oil from heaps of blubber ready cut up from a huge humpback whale; flukes and wreck lay on the beach below.  They were dripping and fairly saturated with the oil, and everything around was in the same Condition.  The stinking fluid had run down the face of the bluff to the water's edge, and the whole place was redolent of the perfume.  A row of casks filled with oil testified to the success of the business.  The tryers told us that they had cut up twelve whales already that season, and had killed and lost ten more.  The fall season usually begins in October, but that year the whales had come down from the Arctic regions a month or six weeks earlier, and business had opened good.  est year they caught only two humpbacks, the rest being "California grays."  This year, thus far, the whales killed had all been humpbacks.  A good big fellow will yield one hundred barrels of oil, but the average is perhaps thirty-five.  Whale-fishing is carried on in this manner at San Luis Obispo, Monterey, and other points all along the coast down to Cape St. Lucas.  On the hill I noticed a pile of the blubber scraps from which the oil had been boiled, which are used for lighting fires to guide the boats hoe on dark nights  Did it ever by any possibility occur to these guileless Gees, that' a fire thus lighted at this high point on a dark night <HI REND="italics">might</HI>
027.sgm: possibly be mistaken for a lighthouse light, and thus a noble vessel, freighted <illus entity="a027-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TRYING OUT.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>There are no real harbors between San Francisco and San Diego, about four hundred miles south, and very few places where a vessel can in the fairest weather run alongside a wharf to load or unload. At Pigeon Point there is a semicircular bay, partially sheltered from the northern winds, but the heavy swells rolling in from the southwest prevent any wharves being erected.  Out about two hundred yards from the shore is a high monument-like rock, rising to a level with the steep rock bluff which half incloses the bay.  From the bluff to the top of this rock stretches a heavy wire cable, kept taut by a capstan.  A vessel rounding the reef runs into the sheltered cove under this hawser, and then casts anchor.  Slings running down on the hawser are rigged, and her cargo lifted from her deck load by load, run up into the air fifty to one hundred feet, then hauled in shore, and landed upon the top of the bluff.  Lumber, hay in bales like cotton, fruit, potatoes, vegetables, dairy products, etc., etc., are in like manner run out and lowered at the right moment upon the vessel's decks.  If a southwester comes on she slips her anchor and runs out to sea till it is over.  This system is in extensive use along the coast, though in some places lighters and tugs are employed to load and unload.</P>
027.sgm:<P>This part of the coast has a terrible name, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The most noted wrecks hereabouts have been as follows: 1. The clipper-ship Carrier Pigeon, of eleven hundred tons, from Boston, wrecked at Pigeon Point in, the winter of 1853-4, the vessel and cargo being a total loss, although the crew escaped.  2. The ship Sir John Franklin, from Baltimore, with the cargo of the Pennell, condemned at Rio de Janeiro; lost at Point A&ntilde;o Nuevo, six years ago; captain, first mate, and eleven of the crew drowned.  3. The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>On the sandy bluff at Point A&ntilde;o Nuevo is an inclosure within which lie buried, side by side, forty of the victims of these terrible disasters. Others were removed by their friends, and one, the mate of the Hellespont, sleeps, undisturbed by the merry prattle of the children or the wild screams of the sea-gulls, beside one of the whalers' houses at Pigeon Point.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"You see that grave right behind that house?" said my companion.  "That is where we buried the mate of the Hellespont.  She went ashore in the night within a mile of the Point, and, owing to the roar of the breakers, the whalemen knew nothing about it.  One of the sailors, bleeding from many wounds, more dead than alive, and wholly naked, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:every rag having been torn from him in his buffeting with the waves, managed to crawl up the bluff, and, groping in the darkness, stumbled upon the trail leading to the Point.  Just as the day was breaking, he had crept within sight of the cottages.  One of the whalemen coming out met the poor fellow at the door, and raising the cry, `A ghost! a ghost!' ran back with such speed as his trembling limbs would give him.  The supposed ghost, seeing a chance for life, and being too cold to speak, staggered after him.  In his terror the Portuguese stumbled and fell headlong upon the floor, and the shipwrecked mariner stumbled also and fell upon him.  The other Gees, hearing the outcry, ran to the spot. and fell over the prostrate couple, and the horrible and grotesque were strangely mixed.  At last the ghost related his story, and the frightened fishermen started down in search of the other survivors, two or three of whom were met crawling along the road.  The bodies of others were lying on the beach, or tossed to and fro by the breakers, while the fragments of the wreck strewed the shore for miles.  There is a telegraph station on the Point, communicating with the Merchants' Exchange in San Francisco and with the station at Pescadero. and the news of the disaster was soon known along the coast.  We placed the body of the mate into a coffin, and asked the Portuguese to help us to bring it to the Point for burial, but the superstitious fellows would not touch the corpse for love or money.  I coaxed, and pleaded, and appealed to their humanity, but all in vain.  Then I swore that I would get even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Thus chatting, we rode on down the coast, and when abreast of Point A&ntilde;o Nuevo, drove up to the door of the hospitable proprietor of Steele's Dairy.</P>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHARTER III. IN THE MISTS OF THE PACIFIC.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>Steele's Ranch.--The Model Dairy of California.--Captain Graham.--A Semi-Tropical Garden.--Frightful Contest With a Grizzly.--Bear and for-Bear.--The True King of Beasts.--The Model of Conservatism.--How the Hunters lay for Bruin.--A Foolhardy Feat.--An Adventure on the San Joaquin.--A Bear on a Spree.--Don't stand on Ceremony with a Bear.--How a California Bear entertained a Mexican Bull.--How Native Californians Lasso the Bear.--How a Yankee did it.--The Bear ahead.--Pebble Beach of Pescadero.--Cona.--The oldest Inhabitant.--Don Felipe Armas.--Don Salvador Mosquito.--The Man who was a Soldier.--A Hundred Years ago.--Catching Salmon Trout.--Shooting Sea-Lions.--Wild Scene on the Sea-Shore.</P>
027.sgm:<P>STEELE'S is one of the largest dairy ranches on the Pacific coast.  It is owned and run by the brothers Steele, formerly of Delaware County, New York.  General Steele, who served in the Union army during the war, and the deputy-sheriff of Delaware County, who was murdered by the "Anti-Renters," some years ago, were brothers of the proprietors.  There are two fine two-story frame houses on the ranch, a fourth of a mile apart, which, unlike the majority of houses on this part of the coast, are elegantly finished, surrounded with shade-trees and gardens, and provided with all the comforts of life.  We found one of the Steeles at home.  He told us that in the earlier part of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:season they milked between six and Seven hundred Cows; but as the feed grows Shorter with the advance of the dry season, the number gradually dwindles down twenty-five to fifty percent. As fast as the cows dry up they are sent to the mountains and allowed to remain until the rains commence, in November and December.  The Steeles came here about nine years ago, and rented this ranch of seventeen thousand acres for six thousand dollars per annum, with the privilege of purchasing all south of the Gazos Creek for six dollars per acre. The ranch was granted under the Mexican Republic to old Captain Graham, a Cherokee Indian half-breed, formerly a Rocky Mountain trapper.  He had no business tact, and old age and <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
027.sgm: combined had completely unfitted him for carrying on this estate, and the still larger and more valuable one known as Seyante, near Santa Cruz. Mortgages and lawsuits eat it all up, and it passed out of his hands for the beggarly sum of twenty thousand dollars.  it was considered one of the most barren and unattractive localities on the coast, but the Steeles saw its capabilities, and settled upon it. They soon purchased seven thousand acres of the land in the vicinity of their present homes, and went into the dairy business on a large scale.  Others imitated their success on a smaller scale, and there are now over fifteen hundred cows on the ranch. These are fed only on the native "wild oats," which in place of grass cover all the open country of California, but with proper effort vegetables could be raised, to double the milk-producing capacity of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Six years ago the Steeles made, from one day's milk of their own cows, a cheese of the richest description, weighing within a fraction of four thousand pounds (two tons), which they presented to the Sanitary Commission.  It was exhibited in San Francisco until it had produced several thousands of dollars, and then cut up and sold at one dollar in gold per pound for the benefit of the cause.  A cousin of the family, who lives with them, enjoys the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Mr. Steele asked us to walk back into the garden, and see what could be done in six years in the way of fruit-raising on land which had, until quite recently, been supposed fit only to raise jackass-rabbits and long-horned, worthless, and savage Spanish cattle. A little "arroyo" comes down from the capon in the mountains near the house, and makes a bend around the ground selected for the garden. Along the bank of this "arroyo" willows and other trees were planted to aid the large, scattered live-oaks which stood there in breaking the winds.  Thus sheltered, the apple, pear, fig, plum, apricot, peach, soft-shelled almond, and other trees, grew up like weeds, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The grizzly bear still prowls in the redwoods, and occasionally comes down to levy tribute on the rancheros.  My friend showed me where two huge grizzlies were seen lying in an arroyo sunning themselves only a few days before.  The party who saw them had lost no cattle of that description, and he, in the expressive language of California, "got up and dusted" in the opposite direction as fast as his horse could carry him.  And well he might.  Mr <illus entity="a027-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LASSOING A GRIZZLY.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>Three or four years ago a San Franciscan staying at the Forest Home, on the mountains between Santa Cruz and San Jos&eacute;, a few miles east of this place, was one day digging up a honeysuckle bush <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Almost every schoolboy in America is familiar with stories of the savage ferocity and immense strength of the grizzly bear of California.  As a rule as I think I may have intimated elsewhere, hunters stories may safely be taken with some grains of allowance. The lion has generally been represented as the "King of Beasts," and numberless are the stories of his courage, strength, and ferocity.  The truth is, the lion is nothing but a great overgrown cat, and his courage is just that of the cat on a large scale, and nothing more.  A cat will fight when cornered, from sheer excess of cowardice, but she always prefers running.  Find the weight of a cat and that of a lion, and just so many times as the lion is heavier than the cat, just so much more fight and courage of the same character exactly you will find in him.  But the stories of the dangerous character of the grizzly, unlike those relating to the lion, are <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
027.sgm: and cannot be exaggerated.  I know from observation that the oldest hunters are the most afraid of a contest with the grizzly, and take the greatest pains to avoid one.  It is always the young, inexperienced hunter who sallies out half armed and alone to fight a grizzly; and one dose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The-plain truth is, that the grizzly is much better entitled to the title of King of Beasts than the lion. He fears neither man nor beast, and, instead of waiting to be attacked, will, if hungry or in any way out of humor, invariably become the attacking party whatever the odds against him.  A lucky shot penetrating the heart, breaking the vertebra, or entering the brain, will sometimes cause almost instant death; but in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred the first shot only enrages and infuriates him, and renders him the most dangerous animal on earth to fall into the clutches of</P>
027.sgm:<P>The bear, like the hog, is "set in his ways," obstinate, and inclined to adhere, with unflinching pertinacity, to established customs and habits.  He never goes back on the traditions of his race.  He is the true natural conservative, believes to the utmost in the wisdom of his ancestors, and hates innovation. He forgets nothing, and learns nothing from experience.  You can always count on his doing a certain thing in a certain contingency; as they say out west, "he averages well."  He invariably buries his prey where he kills it, and returns at night to feed upon it. The knowledge of this fact has before now saved many a hunter's life.  The man who has the courage and nerve to lie still as if dead, and never cringe when he is lifted by the bear's teeth, stands a chance of being buried under a pile of loose leaves and rubbish, and left for hours or until night; but woe to him if he moves so much a finger before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>On the 14th of March, 1871, George W. Teel, a youth of seventeen years, employed as a stock-herder on the foothills of the Mount St. Helena range, only five miles from Calistoga, discovered the track of a grizzly near his camp, and, boy-like, determined to lay for him.  Six hundred yards from camp he dug a hole in the ground deep enough to wholly hide him, then hung a piece of venison on a tree near by, loaded his double-barreled gun with all the powder he dared place in it, and two-ounce slugs, and commenced his nightly vigil.  About two o'clock in the morning he heard the snorting of a grizzly, and on looking up, he beheld, about eight feet off, two glaring eyes in the head of a large-sized bear.  It was quite dark and foggy.  The young man leveled his gun, took aim, and as he saw the bear raise his head, he fired, and the ball entered the animal's neck, breaking it, the slug ranging along the back and lodging under the skin.  The <illus entity="a027-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A CHANGE OF BASE.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>Young Teel, having been successful, retired to his camp contented. At daybreak he left his couch and went to the place where he had killed the animal, and to his surprise found he had killed a grizzly of the size of an ox, weighing fully eight hundred pounds.  He was in luck.</P>
027.sgm:<P>About the same time an experienced hunter in Southern California met with a terrible adventure, with more serious results.  The affair is related by the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
027.sgm:, of February 19th, 1871 "John Searles, well known in this section of the State as an expert miner, left Soledad Ca&ntilde;on a few days ago, with a couple of friends, on a hunting expedition into the mountains north and east of La Liebre Rancho, which abound in deer and bear.  Wednesday evening, the party encamped at the foot of a large ca&ntilde;on, and, leaving his friends, Mr. Searles took his rifle, a Spencer, and went up the ca&ntilde;on hunting; about a mile from camp, he killed and dressed a grizzly.  Judging from the fresh sign that bear was plenty, he went on up the ca&ntilde;on, looking for a good place for a hunting camp.  Half a mile from where he left his horse, in very thick brush, he came suddenly upon a large grizzly, breaking down the chemisal, in a thicket. After waiting in the trail a few minutes, with his gun ready, the bear emerged from the bush and made a rush at him. A ball from the Spencer knocked it down; but, almost immediately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"If you play with the bear, you must take bear's play," is a common saying, but its full force and significance can only be appreciated by one who has had a tussle with a California grizzly.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The Stockton <HI REND="italics">Republican</HI>
027.sgm: of March 14th, 1871--the very day on which both the last related affairs occurred--gave the following account of a grizzly fight which occurred in the Valley of the San Joaquin a few days previously:  "W. D Fowler and George Day were out hunting in the hills near Oristemba Creek, on the west side of San Joaquin River, in Stanislaus county, and came upon a large female grizzly bear, which they commenced firing at.  The bear retreated slowly, and finally went to her lair <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1869, a grizzly of the largest size "ranched" in the San Andreas Valley, near the new reservoir of the Spring Valley Water Company,--from which San Francisco is supplied,--within fifteen miles of the Golden City, for several weeks.  Nobody about there had lost any bears, and nobody <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The grizzly is susceptible of domestication, but his moods are varied even then.  A few years ago, while a museum was being moved from one part of San Francisco to another, old Samson--who chawed up "Grizzly Adams" once upon a time and rendered him beautiful for life--got out of his cage and took possession of the lower part of the city.  A crowd of excited men and boys were soon at his heels, endeavoring to corral him, but for a long time without success. At length, tired of picking up damaged fruit from the gutters, upsetting ash-barrels and swill-barrels, and frightening all the women and children on the street out of their seven senses, he took refuge in a livery stable, where he was speedily surrounded and cornered.  A number of men formed a hollow square around him with pitchforks, and an Irishman with a rope formed into a noose crawled up within reach of the beleaguered animal, and would have lassoed him, but for the fact that he was afraid to attempt it.  "Why don't you slip it over his nose so that he can't bite?" shouted a bystander to him.  "Well, you see I would, but thin I ain't acquainted with him jist!" was the hesitating reply. "Oh, never mind being <HI REND="italics">acquainted</HI>
027.sgm: with him; don't stand on ceremony with a bear. Just take off your hat and introduce yourself!" was the jeering rejoinder; and a roar of laughter from the entire <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>I am satisfied that an average grizzly could at any time whip the strongest African lion in a fair stand-up fight, while a full-grown bull is no more to him than a rat is to the largest house-cat.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The grizzly is becoming scarce in some parts of the State, but he is still found in great numbers in the Coast Range Mountains, from San Diego to Del Norte.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The Mexican or native Californian <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
027.sgm: in Santa Barbara and neighboring counties, riding out three or four together on their fleet, well-trained <HI REND="italics">caballos</HI>
027.sgm:, will without fear attack a grizzly, lasso him from different directions, and not only conquer him, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>But it is not every man who can do that little trick.  The natives relate with pardonable exultation the story of a Yankee who came to California in early days, and soon acquired the trick of throwing the lasso with considerable dexterity.  Hearing others talk of lassoing the grizzly, he started out full of confidence, to show them that he could do what any other man could do in that line. He soon raised a bear, threw the lasso with unerring aim, and reined back his trembling steed to give the brute an astonisher; when the <HI REND="italics">rieta</HI>
027.sgm: --which is attached always to the pommel of the saddle--came up taut Judge of his astonishment, my little friends, when that bear quietly assumed a sitting position, took hold of the <HI REND="italics">rieta</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Returning from the Steele Brothers' dairy at Point A&ntilde;o Nuevo, we passed the famed "Pebble Beach of Pescadero," a great resort, especially for <illus entity="a027-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE PULL ON THE WRONG SIDE.</P>
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027.sgm:ladies and children, in the summer season.  Two ledges of sharp, jagged rocks jut out into the ocean about two hundred and fifty yards apart.  Between them extends a sandstone bluff some thirty feet in height, in front of which stretches the beach some twenty to fifty feet in width at high or low tide. The beach is composed wholly of pebbles, from the size of a grain of wheat to that of a good-sized walnut.  They are of all colors--white, red, brown, yellow, green, and variegated.  Those of a beautiful opaline hue are most plentiful, and all are highly polished by attrition.  Plain agates, moss-agates, cornelians and greenstones abound; and it is claimed that the more precious stones, including diamonds and rubies, are sometimes met with.  The wife of Francisco Garcia, a well-known saloon-keeper on Montgomery Street, in San Francisco, has a genuine diamond which she found here, but I am not certain that it was placed there by purely natural agencies Hundreds of tons of the pebbles are washed up by every storm, and it is supposed that there is a layer or stratum of soft rock or clay in which they are imbedded, extending out into the sea from beneath the sandstone.  Every day, in summer, many ladies and children go down to this beach pebble-hunting, carrying their lunch-baskets with them.  They lie down at full length upon their faces on the drifts of polished pebbles, and with a stick dig down into the mass in search of special beauties.  A quart of fine ones is a good day's work, and a lady of unusually fastidious taste will frequently work all day for a cupfull.  Collections of these pebbles may be seen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>At the beach I saw one of the characters of the locality--Cona, an immense Newfoundland dog. One day a little girl picking pebbles was caught by a huge roller from the Pacific, and carried out into the roaring Surf.  Cona dashed in, caught her by the hair, and, after a stout struggle, brought her ashore alive.  Of course Cona became a hero at once, and was duly lionized and spoiled.  He enjoyed his dignity for some time, but eventually, finding himself neglected, he determined, by a bold stroke, to regain his popularity.  Starting off for the beach, he saw a lady out swimming.  He at once rushed in, seized her by the hair, and, in spite of her frantic resistance, landed her on the beach.  He has become a necessary nuisance, and now insists on rescuing every man, woman, and child whom he catches swimming.  He was looking for somebody to rescue when we came along there--but looked in vain; it was not a good day for rescuing, and he was sad at heart and dejected of mien.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The age attained by the native Spanish-American and usually part Indian-inhabitants of this coast is truly marvelous.  I never knew but one of them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:to die, and he might have lived to a green old age had he not been knocked down and run over by a runaway flour-mill truck team, on Pine street, in San Francisco, in I  He was one hundred and four years old when he was thus prematurely cut off.  It is an undoubted fact that Cimon Avilos, now or recently living at Todos Santos Bay, Lower California, was one of the military guard who presented arms when Padre Junipero Serra raised the cross at the Mission San Diego, in July, in the year of our Lord and Master 1769.  This old <HI REND="italics">conquistador</HI>
027.sgm: had been a soldier in the Spanish army several years before that event, so that his age to-day can be hardly less than one hundred and twenty-five years.  I have half a notion to go down there some day and get the jovial young fellow to come up to San Francisco, and take a little <HI REND="italics">pasear</HI>
027.sgm: over the Pacific Rail road.  At Pescadero the claim to being "the oldest inhabitant" is at issue between Don Salvador Mosquito, a Mission Indian, and Se&ntilde;or Don Felipe Armas, a Californian of Spanish parentage.  Armas remembers that when King Kamehameha I., of Hawaii, found that the cattle which had grown up wild on his islands had become an unbearable nuisance, and sent over to this country for <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
027.sgm: to kill them off--a historical fact--he, Armas, was selected as one of the party.  He was then said to be thirty-five years of age, but so many years have since elapsed that he "has lost the run of them entirely."  The number of his immediate descendants is still increasing at the rate of one yearly.  Salvador Mosquito was baptized under another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:name, but the stout-built Mission in which the ceremony was performed has long since crumbled into dust, and the <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
027.sgm:, who, under the direction of the Holy Fathers (also dead), went out to lasso him and bring him in for the glory of God, have for many a year been hunting ethereal cattle on phantom steeds over the ranchos of the blessed. I saw him the other day.  He came down to the grocery to get a bottle of whisky, to which he is very partial when he cannot get milk, which is usually the case.  This antidiluvian joker is always as dry as a fish.  They trust him at the grocery until his bill amounts to two or three dollars, and then demand the coin. Lifting his hands, with the expression of a dying saint, the old rascal ejaculates, " <HI REND="italics">Yo muy pobre, se&ntilde;or! Yo tengo nada, nada, nada! se&ntilde;or</HI>
027.sgm:!" with solemn earnestness and every appearance of perfect honesty.  But the clerk invariably goes for him in the most business-like manner Placing his elbow against the venerable patriarch's windpipe, he pushes him back against the wall, and, bringing the pressure up to about the point of one hundred and sixty pounds to the square inch, gradually cuts off his supply of breath and consequent power of resistance; then running the other hand into his pocket produces a more or less well-filled purse, from which he repays the establishment and squares the account.  Then Don Salvador denounces the act as a "damned Yankee  trick," goes out in front of the store, spits in the dust, mixes up a little mud, in which he dips his finger, and making crosses and other cabalistic signs upon the door, and windows, and walls, calls down the <illus entity="a027-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE HANDWRITING ON THE WALL.</P>
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027.sgm:vengeance of an offended Heaven on the accursed <HI REND="italics">tienda</HI>
027.sgm: and everything therein.  "May its walls fall out, its roof cave in its contents be ground to powder, and its site be given over, as a last crowning curse, to the everlasting habitation and proprietorship of the worthy descendants of the chief robber, son of a priest and a woman without virtue, who now occupies it!"  Then he goes home with a heart full of wrath and righteous bitterness.  Next morning he returns to see the ruins, is duly astonished at seeing the place stand unharmed, goes in and commences a new account.  Mosquito appears to be a man of strong but transitory prejudices.  His tribe many years ago dwindled down to some forty or fifty, who, under the command of the chief, Pomponio, made their headquarters in the redwood forest above Pescadero, near to the source of the stream now bearing his name.  From thence they made periodical forays on the ranchos below; but as the good Fathers had caught and "converted" all their female friends, they finally went down to the old Mission Santa Clara or San Jose--I am not certain which--and, breaking into the corral one night. carried off a "mahala" apiece from under the very noses of their pious guardians. For this daring act of sacrilege they were pursued by the Spanish soldiers to their mountain fastness and exterminated. Mosquito not being big enough for slaughter was not killed, but was caught and baptized.  He is a <HI REND="italics">buen Christiano</HI>
027.sgm:, especially when about half-full of whisky.  I have calculated the number of red peppers he must have eaten since that time, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Pescadero" is the Spanish for "fishery," and the name is indicative.  The creeks which come down from the mountains all along this coast swarm with the spotted trout of California, and afford fine sport in the early part of the season.  In places along their banks, the honeysuckle bushes and other shrubs and vines form a chapparal so dense that you must wade for miles to whip the stream; but one hundred, two hundred, or even three hundred trout are often basketed in a single day's fishing by one individual.  It does not rain here from April until the last of November or December; but as the days become shorter, and the sun's rays less powerful, the evaporation which caused the streams to dwindle to mere strings of detached ponds decreases, and all over the State, especially in the Coast Range, the rivers commence to rise. Thompson, a hospitable landlord, took me down to the mouth of the Pescadero for a little sport. We sent a Mexican after worms for bait.  The Mexican sent a negro, and we sent a Chinaman after the negro, and got them all at last.  The row down the creek was short. We saw hundreds of mallards and teal, which we could not shoot, because the law forbids it--very properly--until the 15th of the month, and large flocks of long-billed curlew and other birds, such as crows, buzzards, gulls, etc., etc., which we did not want to kill. There is a bar at, the mouth of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:creek, and we chained our boat to a high rock inside it and walked down to the ocean.  The shores were lined with drift, trunks of great pine and redwood trees, timbers of wrecked ships, etc., etc., and the scenery was wildly romantic. We passed the festering carcasses of half a dozen great sea lions, which had been killed by a fishing party with Henry rifles some weeks before.  The fish come into the creek with the tide, and bite best before the ebb commences.  If the sea lions who cover the rocks just outside, follow them into the creek, the fish all run out--and there is no more sport that day.  So the fishermen shoot some of the sea-lions to make the rest leave.  Before we reached the mouth we saw two wolves on the opposite shore, running around by the edge of the breakers and playing like dogs. One ran off when he saw us, and the other lifted up his nose and voice, and treated us to the most vivid illustration imaginable of <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The wolf's lone howl on Onalaska's shore,"</HI>
027.sgm:<P>and then followed his companion.  As we rounded the bluff we saw some rocks just off shore covered with sea-lions.  It was low tide, and we could run out to within fifty yards of them.  I had a large-sized Smith &amp; Wesson revolver, a capital weapon for such use, and as they threw up their heads to look at us, I sent a bullet into the side of a big spotted fellow who was lying high up and presented a good mark.  The ball struck him with a dull thud, and as he rolled off into the waves the whole herd went splashing after him.  Half a dozen of them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The rocks we stood on, and which are covered at high tide were incrusted with mussels of immense Size.  Some of them measure twelve inches in length,. and Thompson tells me that he has seen them fifteen inches long.  They are fat and luscious, and a few epicures come down to the coast every season to indulge in clam-bakes and mussel-roasts; but this species of shell-fish is so common, and consequently cheap, that not one in ten of the people of California ever eat them.  In holes in the rocks, filled with pure sea-water, we saw curious things like great sunflowers with bright-green petals. These we could not detach from the rocks, and at one touch they would curl up into a slippery ball with all the petals hidden inside.</P>
027.sgm:<P>We went back to our boat as the tide came booming <illus entity="a027-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SHOOTING SEA LIONS.</P>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV. PESCADERO TO SANTA CRUZ.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>Down the Coast toward Santa Cruz.--The Moss and Shell Beaches of Pescadero.--A Disgusted Hunter.--A Grizzly Bear Procession.--A Mutual Surprise and Double Stampede.--The Bear Fever.--The Buck Fever and Prairie-Hen Fever.--How Jim wheeler Killed the Buck.--How Old S. killed Three at one Shot.--A Spanish-American Gentleman of Scientific Attainments and Undoubted veracity.--View of the Bay of Monterey and the valley and Mountains of Santa Cruz.</P>
027.sgm:<P>PESCADERO numbers among its attractions a "Moss Beach," where the ladies who visit the place go to gather the beautiful, delicate, many-hued sea-mosses which are found in such abundance all along the Pacific Coast, but in highest perfection on the shores of Central California.  These mosses are torn loose by the storms, and thrown ashore by the tides in great abundance in some localities, this "Moss Beach" being one of them. The ladies gather them at low tide, strip them from the glutinous, leather-like substance to which they are found adhering, and place them in salt water, to be kept fresh until they are ready to dry them.  The delicate sprays, with fibers finer than any silk, are with infinite labor spread out with pliers, or other small instruments, upon the open leaves of an old ledger or other book of hard paper, and pressed carefully while <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:drying.  When fully dried they are taken off the paper carefully, and cleaned with a soft brush to remove any mold or other blemishes, and are then ready for use in the preparation of moss-baskets, pictures, etc., etc.  Nothing can be more beautiful than the work thus produced by ladies of taste, and no special teaching or experience is required to enable them to do it well.  These mosses, when dried ready for use, readily command high prices at the East and in California, the demand being always large.  There is also a "Shell Beach" in the vicinity of Pescadero, where beautiful sea-sheik are gathered. The finest shell on the Pacific Coast il the great <HI REND="italics">abalone</HI>
027.sgm: (pron. "ab-a- <HI REND="italics">lo</HI>
027.sgm:<P>From Pescadero to Santa Cruz is thirty-six miles, by the road which winds along the coast past Point A&ntilde;o Nuevo and Pigeon Point to the Bay of Monterey, and thence southeastward, through a rich and highly-cultivated farming region, to the old Spanish Mission on the hill, below and around which the modern town, one of the most beautiful and thriving in California, has grown up within the past <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:fifteen years.  What a glorious gallop we--Chirimoya and I--had over the clean, hard, undulating road on that autumn morning after I left Pescadero! Californians will understand me and pardon my enthusiasm, possibly sympathize with me in it; but you of the older and more staid and conventional East cannot do so, and I pass the description, as you would inevitably pass it if you came upon it in print.  Passing over a pine-clad spur of Santa Cruz mountains, which here come close down to the coast, we halted for a time to rest and look about.  This is a famous place for gathering the pine-cones, with fragments of which ladies are wont to construct elaborately wrought picture.frames and other "ornamental" work, very ugly, and very effective as dust-catchers, but excellent things for presents to religiously inclined friends, who are thereby brought to a realizing appreciation of the force of the scriptural maxim, "It is more blessed to give than to receive."  A hunter, who had followed a deer down from the heights above, toward the coast, but lost him, joined me as I reclined upon the warm, dry ground upon the hill-side, enjoying the delicious sense of quiet and absence of care and life's petty annoyances which comes with solitude, mountain air, and autumn sunshine, and we swapped stories of forest and mountain life and adventure, in this and other lands, for an hour or two.  He told me with infinite gusto, and a true frontiersman's rude but hearty appreciation of the grotesquely humorous, how a Fiend of his, who was, and is, a sort of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:Mr. Toots in sportsmanship and woodcraft, came down here once from San Francisco in pursuit of game, and wandering out into the woods upon this same hill, fell asleep one delicious summer afternoon beneath a shady tree.  When he awake it was almost sunset, and the coolness of evening was coming on.  He sat up, looked about him, rubbed his eyes, wondered like Rip Van Winkle how long he had been lying there, and how long it would take him to walk back, empty-handed as he was, to his hotel.  Just then a rustling and cracking noise, from a clump of chaparral about a hundred yards away. attracted his attention.  Out walked a grizzly bear, a monarch of his kind; yawned, ran his red tongue lazily over the outside of his jaw, humped his back as if to test the condition and pliability of his vertebr&aelig;, then advanced directly toward the tree under which the astonished but hardly delighted.  San Franciscan sat, evidently without having noticed him anti blissfully unconscious of his presence.  His grizzly majesty had hardly advanced twenty yards when a female of the same species, and but a little less in Size, followed in his wake and went through almost the same calisthenic exercises.  The first bear's appearance made the man of "Frisco" gasp for breath, the second sent the blood back to his heart in a torrent, the force of which almost caused mat organ to jump out of his breast.  It never rains ?? a third bear followed the second, licked his chops, humped his back, gave a half growl, half whine of satisfaction and advanced in the same direction at a slow, shambling pace.  Every word he had ever spoKen in any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:near or remote sense disrespectful of bald-headed men flashed through our hero's mind in an instant. "Now I lay me down to slee--" the forward bear was already within thirty yards of him, and before the prayer could be half finished would be upon him. Something more energetic and positive had to be done immediately.  Springing to his feet in frantic despair, the San Franciscan hunter threw his arms wildly aloft, and uttered one loud, long, terrific, unearthly yell, such as an able-bodied Irish banshee might have given on a particularly rough night, when a particularly bad scion of a particularly noble house was passing in his checks at the termination of a particularly long and infamous life.  The effect was instantaneous and striking.  The foremost bear, startled out of his seven senses by the yell, sprang about ten feet--more or less--into the air, knocked his nearest companion off her pins as he came down, rolled over her, gathered himself up, and bolted "like forty cartloads of rock going down a chute" straight for the chaparral again, his companions following close at his heels, and never turning to see what it was which had stampeded them.  As they went bouncing and crashing away into the undergrowth, our friend, utterly oblivious from the first that he had a gun within reach of his arm, turned and ran the other way with such speed as Jackson or the Deerslayer never achieved, reaching his hotel, some miles from the spot, with his garments soaked with perspiration, hair wildly disheveled, and eyes almost bursting from their sockets, only to tell the marvelous story of his adventure to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:a party of practical hunters, who, with the true California instinct, scouted the entire statement as "too thin," affirmed that there never was a bear seen within ten miles of there, hinted that he had been frightened by a drove of cattle, winding up with an intimation that he had doubtless been drinking a little too freely of late, and if he did not want to have an attack of the "jim-jams" he had better switch off right then and there, turn over a new leaf, and reform his vicious not to say criminal habits at once and forever.  Adding insult to injury was literally boiled down in this case, and our hero of "the three bars," as he was derisively termed, went to his bed that night in a frame of mind easier to be imagined than described.  Next morning a small Spanish boy--who had been posted in advance by the party--rode out on a mustang to the scene of our hero's misadventure, brought back his gun, which was found lying on the ground just where he had left it, and on being closely questioned as to the "sign" he had seen, swore by all the saints in the calendar that there was nothing there save a few fresh hog tracks. This last straw broke the camel's back, and our Nimrod packed his traps and started for San Francisco by the morning stage, cursing in the bitterness of his heart the whole human race, and devoutly praying that the bears which the hunters affected to disbelieve in the very existence of might catch and devour them all. It is but just to add that the bears <HI REND="italics">were</HI>
027.sgm: there, and the hunters knew it all the time.  They only wanted their little joke.  Everything had occurred just as he had stated it, and in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>My hunter friend was just a little soured in spirit by a misadventure of his own that morning.  In company with a young man from the city, who came well recommended as a good shot and energetic hunter, he had started out at daybreak into the mountains in search of deer.  They were going up a narrow trail along the bottom of a thick-wooded ca&ntilde;on, when a deer, startled by their footsteps, sprang up within ten feet of them and darted away with tremendous bounds  through the bushes.  The young man, startled out of his seven senses by the sudden appearance of the deer, had been seized with the "buck fever," and discharging his rifle at random without the slightest idea what he was about, came within an ace of blowing his companion's head off  For this he had received a blessing, and an intimation that thenceforth their paths. were separated, and the more widely the better.</P>
027.sgm:<P>This "buck fever " is one of the most violent diseases which ever attacked the human system.  The story of the Southern planter who placed his negro servant in ambush, and then, ordering him to fire the moment he got a fair sight at the deer, drove a fine buck directly down the ravine past him, is familiar, I presume, to most of my readers.  As the buck dashed past him the negro rose to his feet, when the frightened animal made a tremendous bound, clearing a clump of bushes and a fallen tree-top, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>I once knew a man out in Illinois named Wheeler. lie had been engaged in farming on Fox River for years and never fired a gun.  But one winter when a light snow covered the ground, he heard the boys talking so much about the fun they were having at deer-hunting that his ambition became excited, and he determined to borrow a gun and start out himself.  He did so.  That night he came back with a magnificent buck, shot square in the middle of the forehead. Wheeler said little about his achievement, but got the credit of being a crack shot, which he enjoyed for years.  But on an evil day he visited the village of St. Charles, on the occasion of the visit of a circus to the place, and getting unusually full of ginger-pop and such mild stimulants, in an unguarded moment let out the secret and blasted that glorious reputation in an instant.  He had seen a doe drinking out of a creek at the foot of a bluff some twenty feet in height, and in the wild excitement of the moment got the rifle to his shoulder, shut his eyes, set his teeth like a child in a fit, and pulled trigger.  To his utter astonishment he saw the doe bound away untouched, and at the same instant a glorious buck pitched headlong from the top of the bluff into the creek, shot dead as a door nail by a bullet through the head.  The buck had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>It is not absolutely necessary that the game in sight should be a buck or doe, to give a green hunter the "buck fever."  Prairie-chickens suddenly starting up around a man for the first time will not unfrequently produce a severe attack.  I remember with a tender regard my old hunting friend and companion of other days, Len Huegunin, of Chicago, one of the gamest sportsmen I have ever known. He shot his left arm off gunning for ducks in the Calumet Marshes, but his right never forgot its cunning, and years thereafter he was one of the crack shots of the Garden City.  One day Len was persuaded against his better judgment to go out on the prairie and initiate a green Bostonian in the mysteries of prairie-chicken shooting.  When the dog took up the scent of the first covey, Len followed upon one side of an Osage orange hedge and his companion on the other.  The chickens were concealed in the grass on the Bostonian's side of. the hedge, and in an instant they were all off at once, flying, bur-r-r-r-r-r-r, bur-r-r-r-r-r, bur-r-r-r-r-r-r, up from around his feet and skurrying off right and left in all directions.  Without the remotest idea of what he was doing or Wanted to do: the startled Bostonian fired both barrels into the air at random, and with one of them bored a hole about the size of a saw log through the hedge and perforated old Len's coat, vest, and pants, to say nothing of his hide, with about ten thousand-more or less-No. 7.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:Now Len was a man of few words but prompt action. As quick as a flash his gun was at his shoulder, and bang, bang, it went in less time than I can write it. The Bostonian jumped about three feet high as each barrel was discharged, and yelled, as soon as he could get breath, "Why, confound you! what the d-l are you doing?  You have peppered me all over with shot, and hang me if I don't believe you meant it!  If I had some buckshot here, blame me If I wouldn't give you a dose, if <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
027.sgm: is your little game!"  Len's reply came quick from between teeth set hard on a wire cartridge, the mate to which he was jamming down into the gun, which he held upright between his knees, having but one hand to work with. "Well, d-n you, that <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
027.sgm: my game, and if you are on it, the quicker you get about it the better!  <HI REND="italics">I'm loading with buckshot cartridges already</HI>
027.sgm:<P>It is a painful fact, but a fact nevertheless, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:hunters will lie, occasionally; I have hunted somewhat myself, and I know it.  Old S. used to keep a hotel and drive stage on the San Mateo and Pescadero road.  He had hunted more or less all his life.  One day he was telling a party of tourists about a big deer-hunt he had a few years before. Warming up with his subject, he pointed out with his whip a steep bluff on the hill-side above them, and thus concluded his narration: "Well, you see, gents, I had just got down in that little ca&ntilde;on there, when I seen a deer standing right by that big redwood, and went for him. I didn't see but one deer when I fired, but that deer just gin one leap and come crashing down inter the bush thar as dead as a door nail, and blast my pictur' ef three more didn't come jumpin' over arter him, each one shot so dead that he never kicked.  That was jest the strongest shootin' gun <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
027.sgm: ever seed in yer lives, <HI REND="italics">gentlemen</HI>
027.sgm:. I never seed its ekal, and I've seen <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
027.sgm: in my time, I kin tell yer!  But the curiousest thing about it was, that the fust deer I fired at was shot right through the side of the head, jest above the eye, and through the off hind foot, jest above the huff. Fact, <HI REND="italics">gentlemen</HI>
027.sgm:!" "Through the hind hoof and head at the same shot!--how the deuce could that be?" exclaimed one passenger.  "Look here, S., don't you think that is drawing it a <HI REND="italics">little</HI>
027.sgm: strong?--four deer at one shot, and only saw one of them!" said another.  "Well, as fur the bullet going through the hind foot and head at the same time, yer see he was jest scratchin' his ear with the huff when I fired.  <HI REND="italics">That's</HI>
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027.sgm:another, <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
027.sgm: always <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
027.sgm: puzzle me a <HI REND="italics">leetle</HI>
027.sgm:; howsumever, I'll take my affadavy it's a fact, and what is more, <HI REND="italics">there's the hill</HI>
027.sgm: right in front on yer, <HI REND="italics">gentlemen</HI>
027.sgm:, and yer can see it fur yerselves!  <HI REND="italics">There ain't no gettin' over that, gentlemen</HI>
027.sgm:<P>These and many similar anecdotes we exchanged, my hunter friend and I, while Chirimoya amused himself munching the dry grass which grew in scattered tufts among the bushes, and from time to time varied the entertainment a trifle by essaying the feat of kicking a fly off the top of his rump with his hind feet,--a thing which cannot be done successfully.  I have studied equine anatomy thoroughly, and have done my best, laboring long and earnestly with a club, to convince that noble brute that the thing is a physical impossibility; but it is all of no use; he will persist in trying it, I suppose, and setting all my counsel and instruction at naught, until he disjoints his back, turns himself inside outwards, or is promoted to a position in the shafts of a sand-cart, where he cannot lift his heels.  The perversity of men and Spanish horses is something beyond my comprehension.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Speaking of hitting flies reminds me of a trifling incident, occurring about the commencement of our late civil war, on the Rio Grande.  I saw an old, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:one-eyed Mexican <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"Yes, your Excellency, I have made it the study of my life, and have achieved some small measure of success in my efforts, as you do me the infinite honor to remark. I can now hit a fly and knock him off the side of a mule without disturbing the mule, or I can hit the mule and knock him out from under the fly without disturbing the fly.  I am quite at your Excellency's service; which will you do me the honor to order me to do?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>I ordered him to go and take a drink, and he demonstrated the soundness of my judgment and his title to my confidence by going and doing so without further parley. To the credit of the Spanish Americans I will say that my confidence has seldom been abused by them, or proved to have been Misplaced.  I wish I could say as much for some of my own countrymen!</P>
027.sgm:<P>This part of the coast of San Mateo and Santa Cruz is subject to periodical visitations of various kinds of fish, some of which are almost unaccountable and very peculiar indeed.  The <HI REND="italics">baracouta</HI>
027.sgm:, a species of sea-pickerel greatly valued by the Italian and French cooks for soup and chowder, sometimes swarms in the waters close in shore, and is taken by cartloads.  At other times the shore is literally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:covered with "horse-mackerel," and the whole population turns out to enjoy the sport of gathering them ln.  It has never been my good fortune to witness one of these grand fish-battles, but I find one described as follows in the Santa Cruz <HI REND="italics">Sentinel</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"We reached the fishing-grounds about twilight,--here the pen fails to do justice to the scene.  It was low tide; the sea here forms a continuous, almost level beach, five or six miles long, and an average width of one hundred and fifty yards at low tide, with a hard, smooth bottom, and not a pebble nor a sea-weed visible the whole distance; probably there is no nicer nor finer drive in the State for the same distance: the ever-changeable bluff some one hundred feet in height, all the estuaries filled in with drift-wood, accumulating for years.  Now imagine some four hundred people arriving between twilight and dark, the fine carriages, the omnibuses, two-horse teams, four-horse teams, six-horse teams, ox teams, carts and California go-carts, all filled with persons who have the highest expectation of making a big haul.  The high piles of dry drift-wood, set ablaze for the distance of five miles, the moon shining with brightest rays on the silver sand and phosphorescent water.  Men, women, and children taking their positions at equal distances, awaiting the coming of the fish, which occurs when the tide is on the point of coming in.  The theory of the fish coming ashore I imagine is something like this: the bay, at present, is full of a small fish similar to anchovies, the natural food of the mackerel, which, being a very voracious fish, follows the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The afternoon was far advanced when I bade adieu to my hunter friend, took a parting drink from his canteen, rode down the hill into the open country bordering on the Bay of Monterey, and saw the grand panorama of the Valley of Santa Cruz, and the shores of the historic bay, with the deep, dark, wooded mountains, with majestic old Loma Prieta towering high above them all in the background, unfold itself before me in beauty to which tongue or pen can do no justice.</P>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V. SANTA CRUZ AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>The Bay of Santa Cruz and its Surroundings.--The Natural Bridge.--Mussel Men, their Dangers and Delights.--Adventure with a Sea-Lion.--Uninvited Guest at a Picnic.--An Embarcadero.--Sea Bathing.--Big Trees of Santa Cruz.--Caves.--Mountain Rides.--Supposed Ruins.--Up the valley of the San Lorenzo.--The Mountain Honeysuckle arid Madro&ntilde;o.--Over the Mountains Again.--The Redwood.--And what a Fall was there, my countrymen!--How they Broke Jail.--Down the valley of Los Gatos.--Strange Rise and Fall of the Streams of the coast Range.--Out of the Wilderness.--An old Friend's Story.</P>
027.sgm:<P>FROM the bold rocky shore of the Bay of Monterey to the westward of Santa Cruz, I looked upon a scene of quiet beauty worthy the pencil of the ablest painter, that warm sunny autumn afternoon. The bay itself was calm and unruffled by breeze or gale, but ever and anon a huge ground-swell roller came stealing silently in, as if to catch somebody by surprise, and, failing in that, burst with a long sullen roar upon the jagged limestone cliffs which form a barrier to the encroachments of the ocean on that side.  Beyond the broad bay, on the line of the southern horizon, rose the gray-, and purple-, and mauve-tinted mountains, which come down almost to the water's edge, and at the foot of which stands the old, historic, picturesque, and half-decayed Spanish city of Monterey, tie ancient capital of Alta California.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>I met a party of acquaintances coming out from the city to visit the natural bridge of Santa Cruz, some three miles from the town, and, turning off with them from the main road, went down through the fields and broad meadows a mile or so to the shore of the bay.  The gray limestone which here underlies the soil at every point, and at no great depth, crops out boldly at the shore, and the unceasing assaults of the waves, lasting through centuries on centuries, have worn it into a thousand curious and fantastic forms. This limestone buttress is at this point from fifty to one hundred feet in height, and the natural bridge is out at its very edge, overlooking the bay and ocean.  A deep gulley or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:chasm in the <HI REND="italics">mesa</HI>
027.sgm: or table-land runs down under the outer wall of this rock, without cutting through it at the top; and the waves, surging and whirling incessantly in and out at the bottom, have arched the opening beneath, and worn it into the exact shape of a long span of some monster stone bridge builded by ambitious human hands.  On either side of the main arch are two long narrow spout-holes or flumes, running through the abutments or piers to the sea, and through these the flood surges in and out with a great swash and roar, with every rising and falling wave.  Brilliant-hued pebbles and fragments of rainbow-colored <HI REND="italics">abalone</HI>
027.sgm: shells, worn smooth by attrition, are washed back and forth by the deep blue waters as the waves roll in and out, and beautiful feathery mosses, from the great depths of the sea, are left on the beach by every falling tide. The upper end of the ca&ntilde;on is sheltered completely from the winds, and, being dry and warm, is a favorite resort for picnickers and the lovers of roast mussels and clams, who find fuel in abundance scattered about, and can gather the bivalves by bushels or even cartloads here all the year round.  At some seasons, for reasons not fully understood, the monster mussels of the California coast become poisonous to the last degree, and whole parties are poisoned, sometimes with fatal results, from eating them, nearly every year.  They are of a beautiful yellow hue when cooked, as rich as a banana fried in butter; and I know old mussel-fanciers who have been poisoned over and over a ain but return to the charge year after year, preferring the chances of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>There is a low ragged rock just off shore, but a little distance from the natural bridge, which is a favorite resort for the sea-lions, and hundreds of the unwieldy monsters may be seen disporting themselves there at almost any time. A few years since, a party from San Francisco came down to the natural bridge for a picnic, and while the men were preparing the lunch at the upper end of the ca&ntilde;on, a lady of the party strolled down to the beach under the main arch.  The tide was low, and, as she went down by the water's edge, she saw lying alongside the abutment of the bridge, in the sun, a monster dead sea-lion, or what seemed to be such. The carcass did not emit any offensive smell, and she concluded the animal had just been shot. Going up to it without fear, she stood looking at it for some minutes, and finally gave it a vigorous poke with the end of her parasol.  In an instant the party in the ca&ntilde;on above were alarmed by wild screams, and the lady, half frantic with terror, came running up toward them, with the infuriated monster struggling after her and uttering hoarse roars of rage as he vainly sought to keep up with her in her hurried flight. He was not dead, but sleeping, and the poke in the ribs which she had given him had awakened him and infuriated him at the same time.  The men ran down to meet her, and, having luckily revolvers at hand, despatched the brute with repeated shots. I saw his body lying there, and measured it; it was fully twelve feet in length from tip to tip, and must <illus entity="a027-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NOT DEAD, BUT SLEEPING.</P>
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027.sgm:have weighed from twelve hundred to two thousand pounds.  The sea-lions, or <HI REND="italics">lobos de marina</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Leaving the natural bridge, we rode over the arch on horseback--carriages pass over it without difficulty--and visited an embarcadero, half a mile or less farther in towards Santa Cruz.  This embarcadero is a mere cleft in the limestone bluff, the sides of which are worn into a thousand fantastic forms by the waves.  The water inside is deep, but the heavy ground-swell, rolling in at almost all times, tosses the vessels, which come in here to load with lime and lumber, about like so many footballs, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>From the embarcadero we rode back through the fields to the highway again, and thence past numerous tanneries and other manufacturing establishments to the once fine old Mission on the hill-side above the city, now half modernized by a shingle roof, which has replaced the quaint old red earthen tiles, and half in ruins, and from thence down into the pretty, thriving town to our hotel, where a relishable dinner and welcome rest awaited us.  Towns, as I have ascertained-by somewhat extended observation, are generally composed to a very great extent of houses, and inhabited by people.  Special descriptions are not generally interesting to the great mass of intelligent readers.  Santa Cruz is built on the general plan, and is therefore no exception to the rule.  It looks neat, prosperous, thrifty, clean, and not unlike any well-to-do manufacturing and farming centre in New England or the Middle States, with California flowers, shade and fruit-trees thrown in <HI REND="italics">ad lib</HI>
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027.sgm:<P>I went down to the beach next morning, and found it not unlike other sea-beaches.  It is a mile or two miles long, with a bold, rocky headland on the westward, another marking the entrance of the San Lorenzo, a famous mountain trout-stream, to the Bay of Monterey.  Near the mouth of the San Lorenzo, and inside of the bar over which the tide ebbs and flows, is the favorite resort of the bathers. I don't like salt water in any form,--in fact, am not partial to water of any kind; it has done immense injury to my family in days gone by, and came near depriving the world, at an early day, of the presence and services of your humble servant himself.  The sea-bathing had no great attractions for me.  I love woman in the abstract, and admire the Greek Slave and the Venus de Medici as works of art, but long observation has led me irresistibly to the conclusion that the daughters of my native land-to say nothing of the mothers-will not, as a rule, appear to advantage in a costume approaching the severely classic models alluded to.  Mary Elizabeth Jane looks well in a ball-room, and is nice company at a picnic or on a moonlight ride; but I have observed with pain that M. E. J., clad in a red shirt, pair of Shanghai trowsers, and a flop hat, bobbing up and down in the breakers, loses some of her attractions.  I have gazed with admiration on the red flamingo dancing on the edge of a quiet lagoon on the palm-fringed shores of Yucatan, because he seemed in keeping with, and a part of, the perfect picture.  Even the gentle blue fly-up-the-creek has claims to consideration in his place; but M. E. J., dressed in the closest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>What glorious places for picnicking, and what romantic roads and bridle-paths, abound in the vicinity of Santa Cruz!  With youth and some money and pleasant company, what a jolly life one could lead here!  Ten miles to the northwest of the town, up in the foot-hills, there is what was long supposed to be the ruin of a mighty temple, like unto those of Egypt or Elephanta.  There are two rows of columns forty feet apart, with four feet space between the columns, and looking very like the work of human hands,--very like indeed.  They are indeed the ruins of a temple,--the temple of Nature, and the columns are simply those which <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The wizard Time<LB>Hath raised to count his ages by."</HI>
027.sgm:<P>There is a cave, three hundred feet in length, some three miles from the town, and four miles farther up in the hills a mammoth-tree grove, wonderful to look upon by one who has not stood among the giants of Calaveras and Mariposa.  They are of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>In the cool hours of the evening, when the sun was sinking in the western ocean, and long shadows were creeping over the hill-sides, with a loved companion I rode up the winding valley of the San Lorenzo, some ten miles, to the California Powder-Works. These woods are always beautiful, and the ride, in summer as in winter, in the flush and bloom of spring-time, or in the golden glory of autumn, along the banks of the swift-running stream, under the low-bending evergreen trees, and among the flowering shrubs, always a delightful one.  In the summer the giant mountain honeysuckle-a vine which grows into tree-like proportion, twelve, fifteen, or even twenty feet in height-is one mass of creamy-white and delicate pink-hued, trumpet-shaped blossoms, whose rich delicate odor fills all the air. The buckeye, blooming on every hill-side, gives off its dense sensuous odors in almost overpowering volume, and the wild rose, the snowdrop, and a thousand nameless <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The powder-mills are located in a secluded glen among the hills, and a neat, thrifty little hamlet has grown up around them. "No admittance" is posted on every door of the thirty or more broad-eaved, yellow-painted, Swiss-farmhouse-styled buildings of the Powder Company.  Accidents will happen here as elsewhere; and when one does happen the people loitering in the vicinity at the moment are rendered, as a general thing, forever unpresentable in fashionable society. This thought reconciles us to the prohibition, and we ride away.</P>
027.sgm:<P>A few years since, the "oil fever" broke out with violence all over California.  In Santa Barbara and Los Angeles Counties, where the fields of asphaltum or " <HI REND="italics">brea</HI>
027.sgm: " cover wide districts, and at the surface a refractory kind of oil exudes and runs off in small quantities in many localities, wells were bored Heaven knows how deep, through almost every conceivable substance,--natural putty, cement, corn dodger, cobble-stones, old cheese, chalk, ice cream, molasses, soft soap, hard soap, and soapstone,--but never a smell of oil came to the surface, though a vein of burning-gas, sufficient in volume to light the city of Los Angeles had it been saved and utilized, was cut into.  Here in quiet Santa Cruz they bored everything, from a lime-rock to a sand-bank, in search of oil, and never struck it, despite the predictions of professional geologists, oil-wizards, and rock-sharps generally.  All along the banks of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>From the summit of a low hill above the Valley of the San Lorenzo I looked down for the last time on fair Santa Cruz, embowered in shade-trees, and surrounded with broad grain-fields and quiet farmhouses,--on the wide blue Bay of Monterey, and the Taurus Mountains beyond,--on the Pacific flecked with the white sails of ships,--and, turning my face regretfully homewards, galloped away into the mountains northeastwardly, towards San Jose. The road winds up the mountains gently for some miles, then more abruptly, and we presently find ourselves in the midst of dense redwood and pine forests, and breathing the pure resinous air of the mountain woods, with only the well-graded road, and here and there a rough clearing, to remind us of civilization and our fellow-man.  The trees where the lumberman's axe has not done its infamous work stand thickly as the grain in a field,--almost,-and as tall and straight in proportion. The cedars of Lebanon were beautiful to the eyes of the dwellers in arid Palestine, but they were and are but stunted distorted dwarfs beside the redwoods and pines of California.  As we ride on up towards the summit of the Coast Range, we look down from time to time into narrow little valleys cleared and planted with vines and fruit-trees, and see neat little homesteads surrounded with happy and healthy-looking children, and all the evidences of modest prosperity and contentment on the part of the owners.  Then we give the road to monster ox-teams, ten, fifteen, even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>This redwood lumber has some valuable properties, with others of the opposite character. It contains a large amount of iron, and no pitch, and will resist the action of water without showing a sign of decay for many years.  It will receive a beautiful finish, and may be colored and varnished to resemble rosewood so closely that the eye of the most expert wood-worker may be deceived.  It shrinks less than pine in drying, and is particularly valuable, therefore, for the outside of houses when there is no pressure upon it.  But on the other hand it is almost as brittle as glass, and a two-inch plank of it, resting on the ends, will not support the weight of an ordinary man.  It splits with the least blow, and is so soft that I have known a small terrier dog, shut up in a new barn built of it, gnaw a hole through the side, or door, and make his escape in half an hour.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Some half-dozen years ago a curious illustration of the unreliableness of redwood occurred in San Francisco.  Workmen were engaged in putting a new asphaltum roof upon the three-story brick block on the southeastern corner of Montgomery and California Streets, and a drayman, who had brought them some material, stood on the battlement wall looking at them.  Something attracting his attention, he stepped backward, and to the horror of the spectators cleared the wall entirely, and fell in a perfectly upright position the whole height of the building <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The fact and the party are both well known in San Francisco.  The man was about his work next day as usual, and is so to the present time.  When the bystanders who had witnessed the terrible fall discovered that nobody was hurt, they, Californian-like, began to make all sorts of jokes concerning the affair.  Had the man been killed or maimed, a purse for the benefit of his family would almost certainly have been made up for him on the spot. As he was not, it was a fit subject for fun and exaggeration. One said he saw him straighten himself as he went down, and put his hands down on his thighs, like a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:man diving feet Foremost, so as to make a clean hole in whatever was below him. Another declared that when he came out of the cellar he swore roundly that he would bring suit against the city for damages, for being filled with redwood slivers through the carelessness of its superintendent of streets and sidewalks in allowing redwood to be put down instead of pine.  Another still declared that as lie fell past the second story window be saw a party inside playing "pitch seven up," and noticing that the dealer was "turning up jack" from the bottom of the deck, called out threateningly to him, "None of that, now!"  The writer was then engaged on the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
027.sgm: newspaper, and incidentally published these various statements, intimating a mild doubt as to the entire reliability of the last. The morning paper was hardly out before the champion fallist came into the office with a copy in his hand, and demanded to see "the man who put that in the paper."  Your humble servant was pointed out as the culprit, and he immediately demanded my authority for the statement.  The upshot of it was that he indignantly denied that there was a word of truth in it, and demanded a retractation.  He said, most emphatically, that lie saw nobody playing cards as lie went past the window; in fact, did not even look in; and that had lie seen anybody playing, as had been stated, he would not have interfered with their little game, as it was none of his business anyhow.  He wanted it understood that he never poked his nose into other people's affairs, and thought it decidedly hard that just because <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The county jail at Redwood City, San Mateo County, was formerly--and I believe still is--built wholly of this peculiarly brittle and unreliable wood. As a matter of course, a prisoner who could command an ordinary table-knife never tarried long within its walls, unless afflicted with a laziness by no means characteristic of Californians.  One night four or five prisoners who had been there for some weeks left in disgust, and the writer chronicled the escape for a San Francisco paper, stating incidentally that it was understood that they dug their way out with the aid of a table-spoon and ten-penny nail. Some days later an indignant denial of this last proposition was received from the skedaddlers, dated at Livermore Pass, Alameda County, then a favorite resort for desperate characters.  They protested that they were not jail-breakers in the ordinary acceptation of the term, but unfortunate victims of untoward circumstances.  Their version of the case was this.  One of their number was standing upon one foot, drawing the boot off the other, when he slipped, and falling backward, went plump through the side of the building, landing on his head outside. Seeing the damage which had been done unintentionally, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:and supposing that they would have to pay for the same, they concluded that it was best to " <HI REND="italics">vamos</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The stages from Santa Clara come over this mountain road daily, at break-neck speed,--especially on the down grade,--and the drivers make it a point to scare the uninitiated tourists half out of their lives, by taking apparently unnecessary risks at the most dangerous points.  At the summit or near it, on the Santa Cruz or ocean side of the mountain, there is a long, narrow ridge, or "hog-back," along which the stage road runs.  The view from this is magnificent, and the descent, where the road winds in and out the deep ca&ntilde;ons, turning at sharp angles, the stage clinging to the side of the precipice like a squirrel to the side of a tree, almost enough to take one's breath away; sometimes it is quite enough.  Once, not many years ago, a particularly ambitious driver, coming down this descending grade at railroad speed, "missed stays" as he essayed to turn an unusually sharp angle, and stage, team, and passengers went over. I don't know how many hundred feet it is to the bottom of that precipice, but I do know that the funeral was one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>From the summit we look down the northeastern slope of the mountains, upon the wide and beautiful Valley of Santa Clara, and the blue Bay of San Francisco shimmering in the distance through the light veil of autumnal vapor which hangs over it, and drapes with a robe of royal purple the Valley of Alameda and the mountain heights beyond.</P>
027.sgm:<P>At a roadside inn just below the summit, we find a well-spread table, and dine sumptuously: peaches and cream--not pale-blue milkman's milk, such as we get in town, but real, rich, yellow, old-fashioned cream such as mother's pantry used to furnish us years ago--coming  in  for the  dessert.   Another hour's ride, and we are descending the Valley of <HI REND="italics">Los Gatos</HI>
027.sgm:, whose waters, now no longer the home of the mountain trout, run of the color of "Old London Port at twelve dollars per dozen," the hue being imparted by the redwood sawdust which chokes its course in drifts and bars for miles.  There is a curious fact in connection with these Coast Range mountain streams of California.  When the long, dry, summer days come on, they fail almost entirely, disappearing in places for miles, then perhaps running fresh and clear, though in small volume, for a short distance over a rocky bed, only to sink from sight again, possibly not to reappear again through all the course of the stream to its outlet in river, sea, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Another hour's ride down the shady road, and we emerge into the open Valley of Santa Clara, and for the first time in a week the familiar whistle of the locomotive falls upon our ears.  Cool, quiet woods, lonely sea-shore, mountain heights, mementos of Castilian civilization, and best of all, the welcome rest and solitude of nature, good-by!  Henceforth you are to me but a pleasant dream of the past.</P>
027.sgm:<P>In the mountains of Santa Cruz I met an old friend whom I had not seen before for years.  He was crossing the mountains like myself on horseback, and would gladly bear me company as far as the western border of the Valley of Santa Clara. What had he been doing since he had drifted out of my sight some years before?  As we rode through the forest he told me little by little the story of his later life, the main event in which impressed me deeply.  As he told me the story then and there, I will tell it now to you.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"The long, hot September day was drawing to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"We had left the upper valley of the Rio Grande too early in the season by a month, at least; and our trip thus far, on the road to California, had been a hard one. The coarse, dry bunch-grass, or <HI REND="italics">gaieta</HI>
027.sgm:, never abundant on this route, was unusually scarce that summer; and, as we were forced to guard our animals night and day, to prevent a surprise and capture by the Apaches, they got scarcely enough of it to keep life within them.  We were hurrying on as rapidly as possible for the Gila, where we could purchase corn-fodder and barley from the friendly' Indians, and proposed to camp for some time and recruit our worn-down stock, before turning westward toward the Colorado and the Pacific Coast.  As we were unpacking that evening on the Picacho, I missed a package containing a valuable set of mathematical and drawing instruments, and some important papers, which I could not afford to lose.  They had been put, with other articles, on a pack-mule, in the morning; but, having been carelessly corded, had worked loose and fallen off on the road, without being noticed.  Finding I could borrow a fresh horse at the station, I determined to ride back up the trail in the cool of the evening--preferring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:to trust the chances of being captured by the Apaches to losing the package.  The night was clear, and the full moon lighted up the landscape so that everything of any size for miles around was almost as distinctly visible as at midday.  I had ridden at a gallop some ten or twelve miles, when I saw the package, lying beside the road, under a scrub mesquite-tree, which had raked it off as the mule ran under it. Dismounting, I secured the package upon the back of my saddle, and, having tightened the cinch, was just mounting again for the return to the station, when my horse gave a loud snort and jumped backward, looking up the road toward Tucson, with staring eyes, nostrils distended, and ears pricked sharply forward.  I knew what this meant in Apache Land, and was on his back in an instant, and out into an open space beyond the reach of arrows, which might be shot from behind any shrub or rock. Death haunts your steps, day and night, in that land of blood; and man and horse acquire habits of the most intense vigilance.  Looking up the road in the direction indicated, I saw something moving along the trail, about a fourth of a mile distant, which looked like a small boy.  Proper caution would have prompted me to turn and ride straight back to the station; but just then I remembered that we had seen, some distance back upon the trail, the footprints of a human being--apparently those of a little boy-in the dust of the road; and noticed that they finally left the track and turned away into the chaparral. There were no other footprints with them; and this fact, in such a locality, had caused us to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"`Only a poor <HI REND="italics">Christiano</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"`No; I am a friend,' I replied.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"`Thanks be to God; I am saved!' was the devout response; and the little fellow ran out from his hiding-place, and, coming directly up to me, seized my hand and covered it with kisses, praying and uttering thanks, and crying hysterically, all at once.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"He was a boy of apparently twelve or thirteen years of age, small and slender, and dressed in clothes much too large for him.  It took me some minutes to get anything like a connected account of his troubles from him; but I finally gathered that he had been on his way from Hermosillo, in Sonora, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:to Los Angeles, in California, with a party of Mexican friends, consisting of a man and his wife, another boy, and two <HI REND="italics">mozos</HI>
027.sgm:. They had turned out from the road, to camp where there was some grass; and while preparing for the night, they had been jumped by the Apaches, and all shot down but himself.  He had happened to be a few yards away from the camp when the attack was made; and, concealing himself, had escaped detection.  The Apaches had only remained at the camp, after committing the massacre, but a few minutes, being evidently afraid of having drawn the attention of some stronger party by the firing; and, after scalping their victims, rode away in haste upon the captured animals.  The poor boy had wandered away from the road, in his terror and despair, and for three days had been traveling around at random, endeavoring to regain the trail, or discover a station where he would find shelter and protection.  Late that day he had found the trail, and followed it several miles; but, becoming faint and exhausted from long exposure and the want of food, he had turned out to lie down for a rest under a tree; and, having fallen asleep, had missed us entirely as we passed only a few hundred yards from him.  He had found water once, and had eaten a few mesquite bean-pods, which had fallen in his way, thus sustaining life.  His clothing was torn to shreds by the thorny shrubs through which he had passed; his feet were swollen from long walking on the hot, dry earth, and filled with cactus-spines; and, between weariness, hunger, and thirst, he was so nearly dead that it is doubtful if he would have had strength <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>"I always loved children, though I had none of my own; and my heart's warmest sympathy was enlisted for this poor, suffering boy.  I had some water with me, in my canteen, and, by the greatest good luck imaginable, a handful of dry soda-crackers in my pocket,--the remains of my afternoon lunch.  He swallowed the water with trembling eagerness, and munched the dry crackers, in spite of his sore mouth, swollen tongue,' and bleeding lips, as he rode back to the station behind me on my horse, telling his story, little by little, as he could collect his thoughts and call to mind the incidents.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"He was a half-orphan, his mother having died a year before at Hermosillo.  His father had gone to Alta California, three years before, leaving him and his mother in sonora, to follow him when his circumstances would warrant sending for them; and on the mother's death, he had written for the boy to come with the first party of friends who might be going over the road, to join him at Los Angeles. The party which had been murdered were not relatives, but kind friends; and, Spanish-like, he had become so attached to them that he mourned their fate so deeply as to almost forget his own fearful peril, and helpless, lonely condition, when he spoke of it, with tears coursing down his sunburned, blistered face, and sobs and sighs choking his utterance. Before we reached the station, I had already come to look upon him as my peculiar charge,--a waif thrown in my way by Providence, which I was bound <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>"All my traveling companions, save one,--a big, rough brute, known as Waco Bill,--took a kindly interest in the little unfortunate, and consented to my adding him to the party.  That night we succeeded in finding him a pair of shoes, which would keep his bleeding feet from the sun and the rough rocks of the road, and a blanket to wrap around his shoulders when traveling; and, after a hearty meal of the best we could prepare for him in camp, he fell asleep.  I had a large black dog--half-hound, half-mastiff--which had accompanied us on the trip, and was very useful in watching the camp, and guarding us against surprise by the Indians.  He was as savage as a tiger, and could scent an Apache a mile away.  Butcher went up to little Manuel--the boy's name was Manuel de la Cruz--as soon as I brought him into camp, and, to the surprise of everybody, immediately manifested the warmest friendship for him. Thenceforth the boy and the dog were almost inseparable companions.  That night Manuel slept near me, with Butcher lying watchfully at his feet; and, time after time, the little fellow would start up, suddenly reach out his hand to touch me, and make sure that I was still there, then, reassured, curl down again under his ample blanket, and close his eyes in slumber.  Next morning, I rigged a temporary saddle for my <HI REND="italics">prot&eacute;g&eacute;</HI>
027.sgm:, and, mounting him on one of my pack-mules, installed him as a member of the expedition, as we took up our line of march again for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:the Gila.  Big Waco Bill was a thorough Texan outlaw, who had joined our party more because none of us cared to insist on denying him permission to do so than because any of us really wanted him along.  He despised everything Mexican, and frequently alluded in no friendly manner to `that d--- little Greaser' whom I had picked up on the road and was taking with me to California.  Butcher, who had taken so kindly to Manuel, had hated Bill from the start, and this fact served still more to awaken his enmity to the boy.  However, we got on pretty well for several days.  Manuel--though, curiously enough for a Mexican boy, a poor rider, and not at all skilled in packing horses, lassoing mules, or similar accomplishments, on which his countrymen generally pride themselves--showed a genuine anxiety to make himself useful: he was a capital cook, ingeniously adding a number of dishes hitherto unknown to our bill of fare in camp, and with a needle he was as good as any woman, cheerfully setting himself to work to sew on buttons, or patch and repair our tattered clothing, whenever he had a moment's leisure.  To me he was completely devoted, and there was nothing he would not try to do, if I asked him.  On the other <HI REND="italics">hand, he</HI>
027.sgm: seemed to shrink instinctively from the presence of Bill, and repaid all the hatred and contempt of that worthy with interest, in his own quiet way.  His complexion, though his skin was scorched and burned by exposure to the savage desert sun, was much lighter than that of most Mexicans of the lower class, and his features indicated pure or nearly pure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:Castilian descent.  He was not strong, and quite timid and nervous ordinarily, but, in presence of actual danger, would suddenly develop genuine pluck and courage such as constitutes the hero in life.  After we reached the Gila, we camped near the Pima villages, with the intention of remaining there some ten days or two weeks, to thoroughly recruit our animals.  One day I had been out with my shot-gun after quail and rabbits, leaving Manuel and Butcher in charge of the camp, and, returning just before nightfall, heard, while still some distance away, a noisy altercation going on.  As I afterward learned, Waco Bill, who had been off all day, had returned late, half drunk, and in a quarrelsome mood.  On coming into camp, he had ordered Manuel to go to the river for a pail of water; and the boy, who would have brought it instantly had I but intimated a wish for him to do so, instead of complying with the command, resented it, and kept on with the sewing upon my clothing at which he was busy, showing only by the flashing of his large, lustrous, dark eyes, and the quivering of his red lips over his snow-white teeth, that he had heard what was said to him.  Bill, infuriated at this, ran toward the boy to seize and punish him, when the latter sprang to his feet, and, catching the coffee-pot from the coals, where it stood simmering, threw it full at him, a portion of the scalding contents striking him on the arms, the breast and neck, and causing him fairly to howl with rage and pain. As I came in sight, the boy stood a few yards from the fire with the butcher-knife, which we used for cutting bacon, in his hand, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"When the row was all over, and Bill's wounds dressed as well as possible under the circumstances, quiet settled down on the camp.  Then Manuel came, and, crouching down on the ground by my side, seized my hand and kissed it, and, his voice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"I was not angry with the boy: how could I be? I told him so again and again, and, having quieted him at last, went and consulted with my partners on the situation.  They agreed with me that it was best I should leave the party and push on to California ahead.  Waco Bill was disposed of for the time being, but he might recover in a few days sufficiently to do me mischief; and we all felt sure that it was in his nature to stop at nothing in the way of obtaining revenge.  The party could not move on for some two weeks, their animals being far more worn down than mine; so I determined to go on alone next day with Manuel, and trust to luck to fall in with another party on the trail to Fort Yuma. It was a risky venture, but the best we could do under the circumstances.  We were off bright and early next morning.  As soon as we were out of sight of the party Manuel gave a sigh of relief, and asked, with affecting earnestness, `Will you <HI REND="italics">always</HI>
027.sgm: be my friend, <HI REND="italics">capitan?'</HI>
027.sgm: He asked me the question a hundred times in the course of our journey down the Gila, receiving the same answer every time. Alone with me, his shyness, which had been so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"There were quite a number of Manuel's countrymen and countrywomen here, but he seemed to avoid them all as far as possible, never leaving my company for a moment, if he could help it.  A priest, who happened to be at the post, was to say mass there on Sunday; and Manuel told me, with satisfaction beaming on his countenance, that we could now say our prayers, and thank God and the saints for our escape from the many dangers of our journey.  He looked both surprised and pained when I told him that I was not a Catholic, and could not join him in his devotions; but, after a moment, remarked, `Then, with your permission, friend of my heart, I will pray for you!' and I am sure that he did so with the earnestness of a simple, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"From Fort Yuma to the settlements near Los Angeles, our journey was devoid of special danger or excitement, as we were out of the hostile Indian country and had little to fear from horse-thieves even, with such indifferent stock as we traveled with. As we drew near our journey's end, Manuel's spirits began to sink again, and I saw that he looked upon the fast-approaching hour, when we must separate, with sadness and apprehension.  As we rode along he talked with me of my family and my prospects in life.  He was particularly anxious to know how he could always be certain of reaching me, or hearing from me.  When I gave him my address, minutely written out, he immediately sewed it into his jacket, so that it could not work out and be lost, and I saw him pressing his hand against it, over and over again, to be sure that he was not mistaken, and had it safe.  He would, indeed, like to go to the great city of San Francisco with me, and always be my son, but then his father was old, and would, now that his mother was dead, find it hard to part with him; and his sister--of whom he knew little, as he had not seen her for years--would need his protection.  So he could not go with me to the great city, but he would never cease to pray for me, and if ever I needed his company or assistance, he would leave father and sister, and all, to come to me: I might be sure of that.  I looked down into his trusting, tearful eyes, and was sure of it, and felt more kindly and charitably toward all the world for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:the assurance.  On the last day's journey toward Los Angeles, Manuel hardly talked at all.  His mind seemed to be filled with sad thoughts which his tongue could not utter. "It was nightfall when we came in sight of the `City of the Angels,' and I realized that my long journey of thousands of miles on horseback, from Texas to the shore of the Pacific, would soon be over, and I should, in a few minutes more, be in communication with home, and wife, and friends in San Francisco.  Just then Manuel called me back to the rear of the party, and, with quivering voice, told me that I must not think hard of him if he left me immediately on arriving in Los Angeles.  His father had not seen him for so long a time that he was in duty bound to seek him out at once.  As he said this he held my hand with an eager, trembling grasp in both his own, and looked up, with a longing, mournful expression, into my face.  I understood and respected his feeling.  He wished to bid me good-by, then and there, when no one was looking at us.  I bent down from my saddle, and, throwing his arms around my neck, he kissed me with passionate energy; then, with the exclamation, `Oh, <HI REND="italics">capitan, capitan</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"I had no sooner arrived in Los Angeles than I went to the express-office and got my letters. Everything was going wrong.  My poor wife, whose health had been declining for years, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"The stage for San Pedro was ready, and I reluctantly got upon the box, wondering all the time why Manuel neither came nor sent me any word. The hostler from the stable came at the last moment to tell me that the dog Butcher was also missing. He had howled and acted like a mad creature from the moment that Manuel left, and, some time during the night, had gnawed in two the rope by which he had been tied in the stable and ran away, no one knew where.  They thought he must have gone to find the boy, but no one knew the family of De la Cruz, and so they did not know where to look for him.  There was no time to wait, and I left, feeling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"My business, by patient care and attention, became prosperous once more; but my dear wife grew daily weaker and more wan, despite all that loving kindness could do for her; and a year after my return I stood by a new-made grave, alone in the world, still under the middle age, a childless, downcast, disappointed man.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Once only during all this time had I heard from Manuel. A Spanish lady, well advanced in years,--for whose children I had once used my influence with some success, and who thereafter always regarded me both as a friend and a son,--returning from Los Angeles, called at my house and said to me:  <HI REND="italics">`Capitan</HI>
027.sgm:, I met the sister of your little <HI REND="italics">prot&eacute;g&eacute;</HI>
027.sgm:, Manuel, at Los Angeles, and brought you a message from her.  She is very grateful to you for what you did for Manuel, and begs you to accept a little gift in token of her regard.'  In the package I found a pair of fine handkerchiefs, delicately and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"I was too much occupied with other thoughts and considerations then to pay much attention to this, but I felt glad to learn that Manuel was not ungrateful, and was sorry--probably ashamed--for having left me so abruptly.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"After my great loss, I was much alone, and my mind reverted to the subject many times; and the more I thought of it the more satisfied I became that there was some mystery at the bottom of the whole affair which I had never fathomed.  Two more years passed away, and I heard no more of Manuel and his sister. I drank at the club, gambled now and then in a small way at cards, and, in short, tried--as lonely, disappointed men will try--to forget the past, kill time in the present, and avoid thinking of the future.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"One day I was out riding on the San Bruno road, in company with a friend.  We had both been drinking a little, but only enough to make us feel like driving a trifle more recklessly than usual. As we were coming home along the bay beyond the Seven-mile House, we came up with a party who had also a fast team, and a trial of speed ensued.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Then the fever came on, and for days I was raving in delirium, or tossing in distempered sleep, which brought no rest or relief.  One day I was lying half asleep, half unconscious, with my head as it were on fire, and my ideas all distorted and confused by the fever-heat which ran through my brain like molten metal, when I felt, or fancied I felt, a cool, soft hand upon my burning forehead, and the touch of moist, velvety lips on mine.  It was some seconds before I was fully awakened to consciousness; and then, when I turned my head painfully on my pillow, I saw that there was no one else in the room.  I was sure that I could not have been wholly mistaken; and reaching the bell, I rang it for my kind volunteer nurse, who came at once.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"`There was somebody else in this room a moment since?'  I said, with a positiveness I did not wholly feel, but with a determination to know the truth.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>"`Yes, <HI REND="italics">capitan</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"I gave the promise.</P>
027.sgm:<P>`"`Well, then, I have taken a liberty.  Manuela, the sister of the boy you found upon the desert, has come to attend upon you, now that you are in trouble and need loving care and assistance.'</P>
027.sgm:<P>"`But I never saw her in my life!`I said.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"`You have seen her brother, and been his friend; and for his sake she is devoted to you.'</P>
027.sgm:<P>"`But why did not Manuel come?' I asked.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"`Their father died recently; and he was detained at home.'</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Hardly knowing what I did, I said, `Call Manuela in, then!'</P>
027.sgm:<P>"The girl came in, and stood, with cheeks suffused and downcast eyes, quietly by my bedside.  She was taller than Manuel, and of lighter complexion, but had the same glorious eyes of liquid black, the same dark hair with the tinge of purple when the sunlight rested on it, the same bright, expressive countenance, and quick, graceful movement of the little taper hands when speaking.  She was very fair to look upon,--as the young palm-tree by the desert spring; and there was goodness, as well as beauty, in her face.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"From that day I began to mend.  Manuela stayed with my nurse, and was ever at my bedside, or ready to come at my call.  Neatness and taste were in all she did, and at her touch all things grew beautiful.  She practiced reading English <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:hour after hour, every day, to amuse me, profiting, at the same time, by the lessons.  Her hand prepared little <HI REND="italics">dulces</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"When I was able to sit up once more, and to begin to bear my weight upon the broken limb and move about the room with the aid of a crutch and the chairs, I was madly, hopelessly in love--despite the disparity of our year--with Manuela, and determined that she should not leave me, if I could prevent it.  The time came when she told me that she must go home; that I did not need her care and assistance longer.  Then I poured forth all which was in my heart; told her that I should always need her care and sympathy and assistance, and made her the offer of my hand and heart, in all good faith and sincerity, confident of acceptance."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"And she accepted you, of course?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"No; she did not.  She broke from me, with a startled look, as if something which she had long dreaded had come upon her at last, unexpectedly; and answered me, proudly, but sadly: Love me? Yes; she could love me, did love me, would always love me.  She was proud to receive a true man's love, and to own that she returned it.  But she was an orphan, their father had died since I left Manuel in Los Angeles; poor; almost uneducated, and lacking all of what we call the necessary accomplishments.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"All this, and more, she told me; then broke down wholly, and wept passionately, rejecting all my attempts to comfort her,  She must, and would, go at once, now that this had happened; and she left me--half stunned, bewildered, and utterly downcast at this crushing blow-to make the arrangements for her journey back to Los Angeles. "My other nurse came in soon after, with her eyes full of tears; but I could not talk, even to her, of the great sorrow which had come upon me; it was too sacred for others than Manuela and I to speak of, even though, as I suspected, she knew it all.  That night I never closed my eyes in sleep. I formed a thousand plans, but abandoned each, in turn, as impracticable, feeling that, if Manuela had decided on her course, nothing would turn her from it.  Manuela came in the afternoon, to bid me goodby.  She was pale, sad, and silent.  She took my hand; and I, no longer able to suppress my emotion, turned my head away, in speechless agony.  She <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"`I thought that I was doing my duty, and had the strength to bear it, and go away alone; but I had not.  I cannot part with you again!'</P>
027.sgm:<P>"`Again?' I repeated, inquiringly.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"`Yes,--my true, my only friend,--again!  The first time was at Los Angeles.  I am the little Manuel whom you found on the Arizona desert, and cared for and protected at the risk of your life.  God brought us together then, and now again, for some good purpose; and I will not leave you more! You know all now; and I will be your loving wife, to honor and to serve you always, if you still desire it!'</P>
027.sgm:<P>"She said this with trembling eagerness.  In truth I wished it. Then she explained how she had come to deceive us in Arizona, and so long kept up the deception.  There was a boy in the party, somewhat older than herself,--she was fourteen then,--and when the Indians charged upon the camp she was sitting in the shade, a little distance away, mending some of his clothing.  When she realized that her companions and protectors were no more, and the full horror of her situation broke upon her mind, instinct told her that her chances of safety would be better with whoever she might meet, if she donned the costume of the other sex,-which she lost no time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"The dog Butcher was hunting for Manuel for two days, and recognized Manuela in his place the moment that he found her.  He was with her still; he is with us now.  That is his l ark,--the noble old fellow!  This is my ranch; that is our house, under the madro&ntilde;o-trees up there at the entrance of the ca&ntilde;on yonder; and that is Manuela--God bless her!--coming down to the gateway to meet us, with little Manuel and Manuela by her side.  I tell you what it is, old friend, I am just the happiest man in all California, and the most contented, you may believe me!"</P>
027.sgm:<P>I went in with him, and there, in the quiet summer evening, when the whole air was fragrant with the breath of flowers, saw him sitting beneath his own vine and fig-tree, with his bright-eyed, laughing children on his knees; and Manuela, whose fair face was radiant with love and pride, leaning trustingly on his shoulder, as one who knows whence comes the strength which, through all trials, shall sustain her.  And I did believe him.</P>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI. IN THE STREETS OF SAN FRANCISCO.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>Cosmopolitanism of San Francisco.--Its Street Panoramas and Pictures and Sounds.--An Autumn Morning.--The "Barbary Coast."--The Chinese Missionary.--Factory Hands on Holiday.--Funeral of Ah Sam.--A Chinese Faction-fight.--An Equestrian Outfit.--The Poundmaster's Van.--General Stampede: its Cause and its Course.--The Pine-apple Plant.--The Passers-by.</P>
027.sgm:<P>COSMOPOLITAN, in the fullest acceptation of the term, above that of any other city of America, perhaps of the world, is the population of this goodly City of San Francisco, the metropolis of an empire in the near future, of the wealth and grandeur of which we of to-day have hardly yet commenced to dream.  Here on the Shore of the blue, illimitable Pacific, the human tides circling around the globe from east and west, from Europe and the Atlantic slope of America, from Asia, the isles of the ocean, Australia, and farthest Africa, meet and commingle with a deep, incessant roar, even as the waves from the shores of China, Japan, and the Spice Islands meet the floods from the Sacramento and the San Joaquin, at her Golden Gate, and burst in thundering surf on the frowning rocks of Point Lobos and Point Bonita.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>One may wander far and wide over the earth without finding another such a motley crowd as that which on a pleasant evening pours in a living stream through Kearney or Montgomery Street.  Natives of the soil of every State in the Union, Englishmen, Irishmen, Scotchmen, Welshmen, French, Germans, Italians, Greeks, Russians, Swedes, Norwegians, Lapps, Fins,  Portuguese, Spaniards, Mexicans, Panamenos, Chilenos, representatives from every Central and South American Country, Canadians, Chinese, Japanese, and Kanakas, abound; and here and there in the throng, at wider intervals, you may at times see the supple, silent little Lascar, or Hindoo, gliding stealthily and serpent-like through the throng; or note the tall turban of the Parsee, or Persian, merchant, who is waiting for the steamer of the P. M. S. S. Co. to bear him back to the shores of Asia; or the red fez of the Turk or Algerine, as he wanders dreamily along, unconsciously lending his assistance in making up the wonderful panorama unrolling itself before you.</P>
027.sgm:<P>In walking two blocks you may hear every leading language of Europe, Asia, and America spoken, and see every type of female beauty, from the blonde of the north to the brunette of the sunny South, the dull, almond-eyed daughter of the Celestial Empire to the olive-hued se&ntilde;orita with eyes of liquid flame, from Andalusia or Tropical America.  The ever-changing scene is always one of interest, and often at the most unexpected moment one may witness incidents and gaze upon sights such as could not be observed elsewhere in America.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>It is a glorious autumn morning, when the summer trade-winds have spent their force and ceased for the season, and the winter rains have not yet commenced: Sunday, and the whole population is abroad on the streets; churchward bend the few; in search of pleasure the many. Passing along Stockton Street, we hear the strains of the organ and the voices of the choir, in the Christian temple, mingling with the babel of many tongues on the street, and the rattle arid roar of fireworks, and the shrill sounds of the gong, in the Courtyard of the temple of Buddha or Foh, where "the heathen in his blindness," etc., almost under its very eaves, and beneath the shadow of the Cross, and turn down towards the "Barbary Coast," where thieves, murderers, prostitutes, and vagabonds from every clime beneath the sun meet and mingle on a common level, and vice, and crime, and wretchedness, and moral and physical degradation unutterable are stamped on the face of every denizen of the evil neighborhood, marking him or her as an outcast, a leper, a pariah, among the children of men.</P>
027.sgm:<P>A narrow alley, inclosed by high brick buildings cut into innumerable small tenements, and swarming with Chinese men and women of the lower class, runs through the centre of a Square or block, from one street to another.  This alley is a study for the student of humanity.  At its southern entrance a dozen or twenty persons, all Chinese, male and female, are gathered around a box upon which stands a neatly-clad Chinaman, who holds an open book in Chinese characters in his hand, and is expounding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Farther down the alley, a party of Chinese cigar-makers and factory-operatives, on holiday, are playing a curious game of shuttlecock, catching the bat upon their heels, knees, elbows, hands, or heads, as it may chance, and keeping it bounding into the air, and from one player to another, without ever stopping or touching the ground, for half an hour at a time.  The crowd of spectators of various nationalities is much larger here than around the preacher at the entrance of the alley.</P>
027.sgm:<P>But down at the lower end of the alley, near Jackson Street, the largest crowd is gathered and the greatest interest centres.  Elbowing our way into the circle of spectators, we manage to gain a view of the ceremonies going on within.  In the middle of the alley upon low trestles stands a richly mounted rosewood coffin; and all around it "joss sticks," or little colored wax candles, and sticks of incense, supported by slips of rattan stuck in the earth or the cracks of the planking, are burning.  At the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:foot of the coffin stands a long table covered with a white cloth, and literally loaded with the materials for a Chinese feast.  At the head of the table is a tall pyramid of pink and white rice-cakes, choice fruits, confectionery, gold tinsel ornaments, and flowers.  Next comes a huge platter, upon which rests a hog roasted whole, and fancifully adorned, flanked by a chicken and a duck fashioned, with a strange, perverted ingenuity, into the semblance of grotesque, half-human figures, and at the lower end there is a sheep also roasted whole, with a crown of the native wool, fancifully cut and trimmed, still adorning the head.  A multitude of little dishes, Containing sauces and condiments, are scattered over the table as adjuncts to this feast of the dead. A tall young Chinaman, who is either priest or chief mourner,--we are in doubt which,--stands by the head of the table and directs the ceremonies.  He is clad in a simple narrow robe of common unbleached white cotton sheeting, confined at the waist with a girdle of the same material, and has a strip of the same goods bound around his head.  Three assistants, each similarly clad, are ranged alongside the coffin, and at intervals they kneel and bring their foreheads down to the dust, wailing forth their grief--real or simulated: the latter probably--in unison, chanting what may be a dirge, or a prayer, or a hymn of praise, in the highest key on the scale, while a band, consisting of half a dozen players on the Chinese clarionet, and its variations, one-stringed fiddle, and the indispensable, inevitable, clanging gong, standing around the head of the coffin, fill the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The Chinese Theatre fronts on Jackson Street, nearly opposite the alley from which we have just emerged.  There is a large gathering of the lower class of Chinamen, all in dark-blue clothing, around the outer doors, and a deep excitement pervades the surging mass.  There is some trouble between two of the leading Chinese clans or companies, and' the factions have met before the theatre by accident or design, to discuss the question of the day.  The women keep awe from the crowd, and a number of well-dressed Chinamen, evidently of the mercantile class, stand some distance away, watching the progress of events with evident anxiety.  Suddenly the tide of angry discussion <illus entity="a027-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CATCHING A RUNAWAY.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>As the officers and their. prisoner hurry along Kearney Street toward the City Hall, they divide the attention of the crowds on the sidewalks for the moment with a slender, black, little Mexican, with a thin, sharp face and long moustache, through which his white teeth show, and over which his dark eyes flash with a peculiar Mephistophelean effect, attired in full Spanish-American costume, broad sombrero, short, embroidered jacket, with silver buttons, wide, slashed buckskin pants, looped up with silver lacings at the sides, and long, inlaid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:Spanish spurs, which jingle like a string of little bells, riding on a fiery little <HI REND="italics">pinto</HI>
027.sgm: horse, which has the artificial <HI REND="italics">pase&aacute;r</HI>
027.sgm: gait, trotting with the fore legs and galloping with the hind ones, so much prized by gay <HI REND="italics">caballeros</HI>
027.sgm: who daily ride out on the <HI REND="italics">pas&eacute;o</HI>
027.sgm: in his native city of the Montezuma.  The headstall is of fine braided hair, and consists of a single strap passing from the bit on either side up to the ears, where it is split to pass on both sides of those organs, to keep it from slipping off,--no forehead-band, curb-strap or throat-latch being used,--and united by a broad silver button at the top of the head.  The terrible Spanish bit, at which the high-spirited little steed chafes and champs incessantly until the foam flies right and left from his quivering mouth, is plated with silver; and silver chains attach it to the long, braided hair rein, terminating in a whip, which the rider whirls carelessly around in the air as he rides gayly along with affected indifference to the sensation he is creating.  The high pommel of the Spanish saddle is covered with silver; the long <HI REND="italics">tapaderos</HI>
027.sgm:, which cover and depend, from the stirrups, are tipped with the same metal, and the whole saddle is elaborately embossed and ornamented.  Behind the crupper is an embroidered <HI REND="italics">baquerillo</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Early on a week-day morning you may see another of the specialties of San Francisco,--the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:poundmaster's van and its attendants,-a van with open sides, through which may be seen the heads of luckless, unlicensed dogs and goats, and occasionally a pet pig or lamb, drawn by two horses driven leisurely along by a fat and happy-looking assistant dog-pelter, by whose side sits a Mexican or native Californian half-Indian <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
027.sgm:, with his long, rawhide <HI REND="italics">rieta</HI>
027.sgm: coiled ready for instant use in his hand.  Beside the van rides another <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
027.sgm:<P>As the van jolts along over the rough cobble pavement the imprisoned canines give vent to mournful howls, on hearing which every unlicensed but "posted" dog on the street takes to his heels and flees from the neighborhood as from a pestilence, while the licensed cur, with the tax-collector's tag upon his collar, comes boldly up to the vehicle ln perfect consciousness of security, and howls defiance at the persecutors of his race.</P>
027.sgm:<P>A Frenchwoman of no uncertain social status is passing along the street at the moment, with a King Charles spaniel snugly ensconced in her arms and a sprightly black-and-tan running along by her side. There is no tag on the neck of either dog, a fact which the poundmaster's assistants comprehend at a glance, and the <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
027.sgm: on the driver's seat jumps down on the instant and darts toward them.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:woman sees the peril of her pets, and attempts to catch up the black-and-tan also in her arms; but the <HI REND="italics">rieta</HI>
027.sgm: comes spinning through the air, and the fatal noose is around his neck before her hand has touched him.  In the effort to grasp him as he is jerked away she drops the spaniel also, and in the fraction of a second the mounted <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
027.sgm: whirls the <HI REND="italics">rieta</HI>
027.sgm: around his head and sends it straight as an arrow at the little fellow, lassoes him at the first attempt, and lands him. half way into the middle of the street with the recoil of the <HI REND="italics">rieta</HI>
027.sgm:<P>A wilder excitement, something more peculiarly Californian, and as such more keenly enjoyed by the excitement-loving San Franciscans, follows close upon the last.  Shouts of warning, the fall of goods piled up in front of Kearney Street stores and shops, the banging of doors, and the rattle of many <illus entity="a027-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE POUNDMASTER'S VAN.</P>
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027.sgm:feet upon the sidewalk, announce the presence of physical danger and the commencement of a general stampede.  Out of Pacific Street into Kearney, with head erect, glaring eyes, and nostrils wide distended with rage, terror and fatigue, rushes a wild, long-horned, Spanish steer, which has broken away from a drove being landed at North Beach, and, Malay-like, is running a muck through the city, to the imminent peril of life and limb of every person he meets on his way.' The frightened and infuriated animal dashes madly at every living object which attracts his attention, knocks down and tramples upon several persons not fleet enough to escape him, and is only prevented from goring them to death with his long, sharp horns, by the shouts and execrations of his pursuers, two swarthy, Mexican <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
027.sgm:, mounted and equipped like the poundmaster's assistant, who are all the time close upon him, endeavoring to head him off and turn him back or capture him at the first opportunity.  Dashing full tilt at a passing vehicle, the steer recoils half-stunned from the shock, and in an instant the lasso, hurled by one of the <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
027.sgm:, is around his head under the horns, and the other has caught him in a similar manner by one of the hind legs.  One of the <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
027.sgm:, with a deep-drawn "C-a-r-a-j-o!" swings his excited pony-steed sharply half around in one direction, the other swings his in the opposite; there is a sharp thud as each <HI REND="italics">rieta</HI>
027.sgm: straightens like a bowstring, and the steer goes down heavily in the dust. He struggles madly in the toils for an instant, but in less time than it takes to write this, or to read it, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:one of the poundmaster's assistants is by his side, throwing his <HI REND="italics">rieta</HI>
027.sgm:<P>In a window on Kearney Street a pineapple plant, in full bearing, with the ripe, luscious fruit in perfection upon the top, is on exhibition as an advertisement of a famous suburban garden where it was raised under cover.  As the crowd drifts idly along, one and another turn to look at the glory of the tropics with a casual remark.  A party of young Spanish-American girls pause longer, and speak in low, soft tones of the memories called up by it. As they too turn to go, a yellow negress, from Panama, Peru, or one of the Spanish West India Islands, clad in a long, loose gown of gaudy-hued calico, with a scarlet handkerchief of rich China silk bound around her head, forming a turban, and loose, slipshod slippers on her feet, lazily puffing away at a cigarrito which she holds daintily between her thumb and forefinger of the left hand, waddles up before the window and looks in. " <HI REND="italics">Ah, Dios mio! Dios mio! Hijo de mi pais</HI>
027.sgm:!" she exclaims, clapping her hands in sudden excitement, every trace of listless indifference gone in an instant.  Pouring forth a volume of broken English and provincial Spanish <illus entity="a027-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>REMINISCENCES.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>Such, in brief, are some of the scenes which one may witness, and which will most attract the attention of the stranger, in a morning's ramble through the streets of San Francisco.</P>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER  VII. TAMALPAIS.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>Where it is Situated.--Some Speculation as to the Signification of the Name and its Possible Origin.--Our Start for the Mountain.--The Trip to San Rafael and Adventures by the Way.--Ascending the Mountain.--First Blood.--The View of the Bay and City of San Francisco.--Mount Diablo puts in an Appearance.--At the Summit.--A Bear-faced Fraud.--Fine Study of a Fog Bank.--A Faithless Guide.--Wandering in the Mist.--Out of the Woods.--An Afternoon's Sport.--A Painful Subject.-- <HI REND="italics">Adios Tamalpais</HI>
027.sgm:<P>THERE is not a finer mountain for its height,--two thousand six hundred feet,--on all the continent of America, than Tamalpais, the bold abutment of the Coast Range on the northern side of, the Golden Gate, a low spur of which runs down into the Pacific Ocean and forms Point Bonita (Beautiful Point), on which stands the lighthouse which guides the mariner into the entrance of the Bay and Harbor of San Francisco.  The origin and signification of the name are matters of doubt.  <HI REND="italics">Mal pais</HI>
027.sgm: is a common designation for rocky barren ground, in all Spanish-American countries, and <HI REND="italics">Ta-mal-pais may</HI>
027.sgm: be a corruption of that term, the, unnecessary primary syllable having perhaps been engrafted upon it by the Indians or Russians after the Spanish settlement of the country.  Another suggestion--a very  hazardous one--as to its origin is as follows.  There is a dish, toothsome, <illus entity="a027-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MT. TAMALPAIS, FROM THE EASTERN SLOPE OF ANGEL ISLAND.</P>
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027.sgm:and dear to every Spanish-American epicure, known as <HI REND="italics">tamals</HI>
027.sgm:. "Tamal-pais" may possibly mean simply " <HI REND="italics">tamal</HI>
027.sgm: country," or as we would say, "the country of tamals," from somebody having in early days produced <HI REND="italics">tamals</HI>
027.sgm: there.  Tamales-or Tomales--Bay, lying in the rear of Mount Tamalpais, on the ocean side, helps to give a color of probability to this proposed solution of the question.  However that may be, the mountain has been known as Tamalpais since the time when the memory of man runneth not to the contrary, and it may be after all merely an Indian name signing nothing at all, like Alabama, Ohio, and Iowa.  <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The mountain looks well from any point of view, in summer or in winter; but its outlines seem boldest, and the dim blue haze, which envelops it always, the softest and most beautiful I think, when looked upon from the Bay of San Francisco, or the heights of Telegraph or Russian Hill.  It stands in Marin County, or rather it <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
027.sgm:<P>We three--Dr. Murphy, the eminent physician of San Francisco, Lloyd, the rising young criminal lawyer, and myself--had looked with longing eyes in that direction, even as Moses looked toward the Promised Land, for months and years, and at last the longing to go over there and explore the mysterious fastnesses of the mountain became too great for further repression. We knew that quail, deer, hare, and rabbits abounded there, that deer were often killed there, that California lions had been seen there, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The Doctor is an ambitious and sanguinary man, his professional experience having given him a taste for blood; and he went in for big game.  I don't think he would have discounted the proceeds of that foray at anything less than a grizzly, a pair of California lions, half a dozen wild-cats, and a wagon load of deer; and I know that he had hopes of hare and small game almost without limit.  He was armed with a Henry rifle, five hundred rounds of cartridges, and a butcher-knife with a blade sixteen inches in length.  Lloyd took a No. 8 stub and twist double-barrelled gun,--which by rights should have been mounted on a swivel in a boat, or on a raft,--two hundred and fifty Ely's wire cartridges, a bag of B B shot, half a keg of powder,-he hesitated a long time as to whether he should fill up the keg, but finally concluded that in case he run out he could buy more at San Rafael,--and an army size Colt's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>We were to go on horseback, starting at 2 P.M. from San Francisco, on the 2d of September.  I rode my old pet,. a half-breed mare, Juanita, which the accursed, sneaking Chimahuepis Indians stole from my side as I slept, a year later, on the banks of the Colorado River.  Lloyd bestrode a fiery, untamed, mouse-colored steed, received from a client subsequently hanged,--he shed no tears over his grave; and the Doctor galloped on the road to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Here the trouble began.  The Doctor, by reason of his greater age and presumably riper judgment and greater discretion, was entrusted with the transportation of the saddle-bags, in which were packed a chicken-luncheon, a lot of ammunition, and a few bottles.  He hung them across the back of his saddle, gravely mounted to his seat, grasped his deadly rifle firmly, and gave the signal for the start in a loud clear voice:  <HI REND="italics">Vamos</HI>
027.sgm:!  It was as even a start as I ever saw on a race-track, all three horses bounding about ten feet at the first jump. Mousey, Lloyd's horse, shot a little ahead; Juanita followed close on his flank; and Whitey, the Doctor's incomparable mustang, dropped a trifle in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:rear.  At the end of forty rods there came a sudden change in the order of the procession.  Lloyd's horse had run away with him, and, from sheer force of habit, taken the left-hand road toward the State Prison, instead of the right-hand one leading to San Rafael.  The Doctor seeing the mistake called out "No! no!" at the top of his voice.  His intelligent mustang, from an excess of zeal to obey orders, had both ears erect and open, expecting that our speed would not last and the order "whoa" would be given.  In the excitement of the moment he mistook the word, or feared that he might have mistaken it, and to make a sure thing put out his fore legs, stiff-kneed, which movement by a horse of playful disposition is termed "bucking." Horse and rider in such cases generally find it difficult to continue in company, and so part, as the best of friends sometimes must.  That is just what the Doctor and his mustang did, at the moment I turned my head. Following the Doctor something rose gracefully from the rear of the saddle, described a gentle curve in the air, and landed with a loud thud and a sharp jingle on the hard road, a few feet ahead of him. It was the saddle-bags, and the jingle sounded suspiciously like that of broken glass--which we found no difficulty in ascertaining that it was.  Juanita, not caring to run over the Doctor, jumped backward suddenly, and in doing so left me sitting unsupported in the air.  I make it a rule not to war against nature's laws.  Those laws say that in such cases one must come down. The ground in that particular locality is very solid, as I ascertained beyond a doubt.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>A startling thought suggested itself, and I was on the point of dropping them when the Doctor rolled over in the dust and called out, "Oh, never fear; there ain't going to be a second explosion; the powder is in a tin case on the other side!" I felt reassured and comforted, and proceeded to replace them upon the Doctor's saddle and tie them on. None of the horses appeared to have been seriously hurt.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The party once more united, we took a fresh start. Whitey, with the Doctor in the saddle, led off this time.  Some of the liquor from the saddle-bags oozed out upon his back, and appeared to infuse new spirit into him.  He reared up behind, and let out his legs right and left as if feeling for the object which annoyed him, switched his tail and snorted viciously, then bolted for San Rafael as if life or death depended on his reaching there inside of ten minutes and he meant to be there on time.  He buckled down to the work like a woodchuck hunting a new hole, and made every point tell.  Occasionally his hind legs, getting impatient of the rate of progress made by the fore ones, would make a spasmodic effort to go off on their own hook and take the lead, thereby causing the Doctor to roll <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:and pitch like a ship in a cross sea with a head wind. But the Doctor is game when his blood is up, and it was at the boiling point just then,  Holding the rein and grasping the pommel of the saddle at the same time with one hand, he swung his heavy Henry rifle with the other, bringing it down at every swing with vindictive energy upon the head of the accursed brute, whack! whack! whack! and thus he continued to encourage him all the way to San Rafael, a distance of some three miles.  As the wrath of the Doctor rose, so did his pantaloons, the bottoms of which were soon riding in triumph above the tops of his boots, and essaying, with every prospect of success, a flight above his knees.  The Doctor hung to the saddle and the rifle, and allowed minor matters to take their course.  Mousey seemed to rather enjoy the situation, and kept close upon Whitey's heels, while Juanita, thinking it was a race for grand cash, went in to win or die.  My foot coming in contact with Lloyd's horse was knocked out of the stirrup, and in attempting to replace it, I dropped the rein, which the gun in my hand prevented me from regaining, and I was at sea rudderless and drifting helpless before the storm.  A gang of Chinese laborers were cutting a ditch alongside the turnpike, and seeing us coming, they ran up the side of the road, swinging their broad-brimmed bamboo hats, and making the air ring with shouts, beside which the note of the peacock on the wall in springtime is as the melody of the spheres.  Two stage coaches filled with passengers had left the embarcadero ahead of us, bound for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:San Rafael, and as we approached them, tile drivers kindly reined the teams out of the track to give us a clear field, while all hands lent us their assistance in the shape of three rousing cheers and a tiger.  I am always thankful for human sympathy and encouragement, properly expressed and at the proper time, but I would at that moment, had I been consulted, have preferred that the demonstration made by the passengers in those coaches should have been a trifle less ostentatious and energetic, and possibly postponed altogether for a day or two. I have a dim recollection of hearing the Doctor give expression to a wish to see the entire party of them roasting somewhere, and of not feeling shocked thereat, although, as I am bitterly opposed to everything bordering on slang and profanity, I suppose I was in duty bound `to' feel shocked at his remark; but I was very busy at the moment, and somehow I did not.  I don't think a three-mile race-track was ever got over in less tee than it took us to make the run from the embarcadero to San Rafael after the second start.  The hospitable citizens of San Rafael saw us coming, with a cloud of dust spinning out in our wake like the tail of a comet, and with one accord turned out to greet us.  They appeared to be apprehensive that we might go right on to the next town without stopping, ad to ensure a different result they ranged themselves in a line across the road, brandished hands, arms, hats, and everything else they could lay hold of at the moment, shouting, as with one voice, whoa!  Whitey and Mousey "whoaed" so suddenly that their riders were <illus entity="a026-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE ROAD.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>We repaired to the hotel, bound up and anointed our smarting wounds, sent out a party to gather in our traps, which had been scattered all along the road, then held a council of war.  We did not feel much like going forward, in truth, but then we were ashamed to go back, and advance we must.  With much inquiry and diligent search, we found a native who knew the trail to the top of Tamalpais, and was willing, for a consideration, to pilot us there next day. The sum demanded for his services was more than he had honestly earned before in his entire lifetime, but we needed him, and were at his mercy.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Sunrise saw us all in the saddle.  We found that during the night, lumps of the size of acorns, hickory nuts, even black walnuts, had grown on those saddles just where we found it most inconvenient to have them, but were forced to grin and bear the infliction as best we might.  After a half-mile ride through the fields, we came in sight of a flock of quail running along in the road ahead, and a halt along the entire <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:line was ordered. Lloyd, having the biggest gun, was ordered to dismount and deploy as skirmisher. With trailed shotgun he crept through an acre or two of dusty <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
027.sgm:, and came to a halt at last on the flank and within twenty yards of the unsuspecting enemy.  We saw him rise slowly and deliberately, bring his murderous weapon to bear, take deadly aim--it seemed to us, waiting there in breathless expectation, that it took him an hour at least to do it-then discharge both barrels at once.  There was a shock and concussion like the explosion of a mine, a deep reverberation rolling away and dying in a thousand echoes in the gorges of the mountain.  But the gunner, where was he?  Lying prone upon his back in the bushes, kicking up as much dust as is raised by an ordinary threshing machine in full operation, as he kicked right and left in his agony.  When he arose at last his upper lip was of the thickness of a fifty-cent sirloin steak., and his nose was bleeding profusely.  He ventured the opinion that he must have been stung by hornets while he was down.  If such was the case, it was a very unmanly and cowardly thing for the hornets to do; that is all I have to say on the subject.  When the shot from his gun struck the dust in the road and raised it in a cloud, I looked to see at least a dozen quail lying in the agonies of death in the road, as it subsided.  In place thereof I saw the entire covey on the wing for the <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
027.sgm: higher up on the mountain-side. There were plenty of feathers in the road, however, which showed that he must have startled them considerably.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:As next in rank I then took up the fight, and discharged both barrels at the flying enemy, as I sat on horseback, Juanita dancing a break-down jig as I did so.  One bird came down with a crippled wing, but made tracks for the bushes the moment it touched the ground.  Before he reached cover, the Doctor, who represented the artillery, sent half a dozen bullets from his Henry rifle whizzing after him, making it very lively indeed for him, but not even knocking out a feather.  Just then a ranchero's dog came trotting down the road, and calling him to us, I pointed to the clump of <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
027.sgm: in which the wounded quail had taken refuge, clapping my hands and shouting "sic him! sic him!" with all my might at the same time.  Thus encouraged, our volunteer corps went in, and to our infinite satisfaction we heard that miserable quail piping like a sick chicken in a moment more.  "We've got him! We've got him!" we shouted in chorus.  We were in error again; the dog had got him, and a brief observation of his movements satisfied us that he meant to keep him too.  The infamous brute absolutely had the audacity to walk out of the bushes with our quail in his mouth, right before our eyes, and refusing with a savage growl to surrender it to me, trot deliberately off down the road, toward the residence of his master. "Here, doggy!  Come, doggy!  O, the nice doggy! pretty doggy!" etc., we repeated in the most persuasive and endearing accents, only to provoke his visible contempt, and increase the derisive elevation of his vertebra and the rate of his speed.  What kind of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Then a change came over the spirit of our dream. Our firing and the subsequent howling of the base, ungrateful cur, had attracted the attention of his baser owner, and he put in an appearance very suddenly and unexpectedly.  Flourishing a hayfork threateningly, he demanded to know which thief had been trying to kill his valuable and intelligent "animal."</P>
027.sgm:<P>Lloyd, who had just concluded the operation of washing his face in a spring, thereby apparently repeating the miracle of Cana, feeling that this was adding insult to injury, volunteered in clear and forcible language to "put a head on him," then and there, in three seconds, if he "would just lay down that pitchfork."  "If the head you would put on me would resemble the one you carry around, I would sooner be shot down dead on the spot, and be out of misery at once, than take it!  You look as if you were in the murder line, anyhow, and perhaps you might as well go right on with your infamous work as it is!" was the delicate and gentlemanly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Out of the dusty carriage-road, at last we entered the narrow bridle-trail, which winds up the steep mountain-side, through the rocky <HI REND="italics">malpais</HI>
027.sgm:, covered with wide fields of the bitter <HI REND="italics">chemisal</HI>
027.sgm:, which spreads over the whole upper part of the mountain.  This bitter shrub, of the leaves of which no living creature will eat, grows only on ground which will support .nothing else, and is worthless for every purpose save that of holding the earth together.  The sun was well up in the heavens and the air growing oppressively warm, when we passed above the timbered belt, and entered this <HI REND="italics">chemisal</HI>
027.sgm: country.  We halted and looked back.  In the southeast, San Francisco, lying overstretched, a tawny giant upon the gray hills of the peninsula, showed dimly through the veil of yellow dust, dun-colored smoke, and thin, luminous vapor which overhung it'  Down to the southward, almost at our feet, lay the Golden Gate, the Presidio of San Francisco, and the straits leading up from the ocean to the Bay of San Francisco, with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:rock fortress of Alcatraz presenting its tier above tier of black cannon, standing like the sentinel at the gateway, keeping grim watch and ward at the western portal of  a mighty land. A huge, black-hulled steamer was heading out through the Golden Gate into the blue Pacific, bound for the Columbia, Victoria, Mexico, Panama, or possibly to far-off lands on the other edge of the world, beyond our western horizon. White sails gleamed here and there over the whole Bay of San Francisco, and over its broad surface white-bulled ferry and river steamers could be seen plowing their way. The Bay of San Pablo was a duck-pond at our feet-the Straits of Carquinez dwindling away to a mere silver thread in the distance--and the Bay of Suisun only a whitey-brown patch in the landscape farther north.  Oakland, and all her sister towns along the eastern shore of the Bay of San Francisco, looked out here and there from the midst of embowering trees. Mount Diablo, clad in garments of dun and straw color, rose high into the blue sky on the eastward, seeming to ascend as we ascended, and grow taller and more gigantic at every step; following us up, as it were, and bullying us as we went, as if determined that we should not be permitted to look down upon him nor receive a diminished idea of his importance.  Northward and northeastward, stretching out leagues on leagues from his base, were the wide, dark tule swamps, and half-submerged islands of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, bordered by bright, straw-colored valleys, stretching away to the point where the dark green line of the summits of the Sierra Nevada melted into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Manuel, when we engaged you as our guide, you promised on the honor of a descendant of conquering Castile, and the faith of a <HI REND="italics">Christiano</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Manuel, with a brow slightly clouded, arose slowly, mounted his horse a little hesitatingly, and led us onward up the steep acclivity.  Half a mile brought us to a saddle-back, on one side of which there was a narrow grass-plat.  Looking carefully along the other side, among the <HI REND="italics">chemisal</HI>
027.sgm:, broken rocks, and coarse gravelly soil, he discovered at length a track, at which he pointed in silent triumph.  A painter desiring to catch the smile of benign ecstacy which illumined the countenance of the beloved disciple, would have found fame and fortune in the face of Manuel at that moment, had he the talent to catch the expression, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>As I was proceeding to mount and ride off with the horses, I chanced to look at the bear track, where it crossed the soft bit of grassy ground on the side of the hog-back, opposite where Manuel had pointed it out in the hard, rocky soil; and with the bluntness of an impulsive and ingenuous nature, thoughtlessly remarked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Two miles more of hard climbing, the sweat pouring in streams off our panting horses, brought us to a little secluded flat, in a narrow ca&ntilde;on but a short distance below the summit.  There is a fine spring of pure, cold water there, and a number of huge, old oaks, gray with the long, trailing moss, which is nourished by the abundant moisture condensed upon it daily from the dense sea fogs which roll up over the summit at brief intervals all the year round.  Here we unpacked our traps, uncinched and picketed out our tired horses, and prepared for a long and vigorous campaign.  The quails, driven up the mountain from all the valleys below by the incessant raids of the pot-hunters, fairly swarmed in this ca&ntilde;on, having found it a safe haven of refuge up to this time that season.  We killed several and badly frightened a considerably greater number.  Then we spread our table and lunched gloriously.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>After lunch, we went over the ground once more, bagging a few more quail, and then climbed to the summit of the mountain and looked down on the blue, illimitable Pacific; that is to say, we looked down the steep western slope of the mountain in the direction where the blue, illimitable Pacific was, and still is, and probably always will be, located, and would have seen it had it not been hidden beneath a bank of snow-white fog, as solid and impenetrable to the eye as the mountain itself  We could hear the incessant moaning of the sea, as it dashed its waves on the rock-bound coast beneath us, but that was all.  The bay where the chivalrous old filibuster and pirate Sir Francis Drake moored his fleet some centuries ago, and from whence he sailed some weeks later, without an idea of the existence of the grand Bay of San Francisco and the glorious country of which the Golden Gate, right under his long, sharp, rakish nose, is the portal, was just below us on the northwest, but it might as' well have been a thousand miles away. Point Lobos and Point Bonita were invisible, and the Farrallones were buried countless fathoms deep beneath the fog-bank.  All was an utter blank from a point a thousand feet beneath us.  Even as we gazed upon it, the bosom of the snowy fog bank heaved and rocked at the touch of the rising gale; then the whole vast fleecy mass moved inward upon the land, and silently, but with the speed of thought, and apparently with irresistible force, came rushing like a mighty avalanche up the slope of the mountain toward the summit on which we stood.  "We shall see nothing, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:may lose our way in the mist; let us <HI REND="italics">-vamos</HI>
027.sgm:, and we <HI REND="italics">vamosed</HI>
027.sgm:<P>As we turned our steps to the eastward and passed over the crest of the mountain again, we saw the mist moving up through the Golden Gate, and rolling over the island of Alcatraz, which in a moment was enveloped and hidden from sight.  As the island disappeared the low, mournful voice of the tolling fog-bell Came faintly but distinctly to our ears, borne on the soft, moist air.  B-o-o-m! b-o-o-m! b-o-o-m! a throbbing pulsation of sound, always inexpressibly painful for me to listen to, and I have heard it thousands of times.  A San Francisco poet has beautifully expressed in the following lines the thoughts awakened by night-and by day as well-not in his mind alone, by the voice of</P>
027.sgm:<P>THE FOG BELL OF ALCATRAZ.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>O weary warden, that o'er sea and marshes<LB>Monotonously calls<LB>Thy challenge to the foe, whose-stealthy marches<LB>Invest the city walls.<LB>Thy voice of warning far and wide diverges,<LB>Thrilling the midnight air;<LB>Yet in thy tower, above the rocking surges,<LB>Thou dost not heed, nor care.<LB>Thou readest not the message of thy bringing<LB>Thou dost not know the weight<LB>Of that which in thy little are forever swinging,<LB>Thou dost reiterate.<LB>Thou heedest not the text, whose repetition<LB>Makes the dark night more drear;<LB>Thou fill'st the world with formal admonition--<LB>But show'st no sky more clear!</HI>
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027.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Thou see'st not the binnacle light that glistens<LB>Upon the slippery deck;<LB>Thou markest not the mariner who listens<LB>Thou see'st not the wreck.<LB>Vain is thy challenge-vain thy admonition--<LB>To all who hear or pass<LB>Having not Love nor Pity--thy condition<LB>Is but "as sounding brass."<LB>O formal Dervish! rocking in thy tower,<LB>That looks across the deep,<LB>Cry, O Muezzin, "God is God!" each hour--<LB>But let believers sleep.<LB>Thou hast the word, O too insensate preacher,<LB>But having nought beyond,<LB>The fate thou criest, and thyself the teacher,<LB>Alike by man are shunned.</HI>
027.sgm:<P>We listened some minutes to the steady, monotonous, and mournful pealing of the fog-bell, then hurriedly retraced our steps to the ca&ntilde;on in which we had left our guide and the horses.  The horses were all right; but the guide lay stretched at full length upon the ground, motionless and rigid as the Cardiff giant.  We were by his side in a moment. "Asleep!" said Lloyd. "Dead!" suggested the Doctor.  "In a fit!" hazarded your humble servant.  He was drunk--simply, but terribly drunk-our bottle lying empty beside him, and our hearts were unutterably sad and full, aye, even slopping over--of bitterness.  We found a flat rock of suitable proportions, and erected it, with an appropriate inscription, scrawled with the end of a burned stick, as a tombstone at his head; placed another at his feet, inserted a soft boulder under his head as a pillow, laid two smaller ones gently on his eyes, and rode away in sorrow and in silence.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>That faithless watcher had told us before we left him to ascend to the summit, that a trail led back along a winding ridge and through a timbered country, and so down the mountain by the way of Lagunitas, a lumber-camp near the foot, and advised us to return that way.  We started to carry out his programme without him.  After we had ridden a short distance, a lone pigeon perched upon the top limb of a dead tree attracted our attention, and all firing at once, we brought him lifeless to the ground; then indulged in an animated and somewhat acrimonious discussion as to who fired the fatal shot, until the fog drift was upon us.  We rode along the ridge a mile or two in the dense, salt fog, until our clothing was drenched as if from a thunder shower, and we all smelled like so many Point Lobos mussels, while water streamed out of the barrels of our guns, whenever we turned them muzzle downward. "This is poetry condensed!" I had exclaimed enthusiastically, as we looked down in delight upon the scene spread out before us, as we ascended the eastern slope of the mountain.  "I'll be blamed if this is not prose!" said the Doctor, as he gazed ruefully at the approaching fog-bank which shut us out from the sight of everything on the west from the summit of the mountain.  "This is blank verse!" cried Lloyd, as he now swept the drops of gathered moisture from his face in a shower, and mopped himself industriously with his dripping handkerchief.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Suddenly we emerged from the cloud, and found ourselves below and outside of it, and in the sunshine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>We went on down the steep declivity a mile or more; then came upon the edge of one still more precipitous, and looked down into a narrow, romantic ca&ntilde;on, at the bottom of which is Lagunita, Descending this precipice, our horses occupied something the position of red squirrels Coming down the side of a barn. My horse being at the rear, had his nose projected far over the back of Lloyd's, and his in turn was telescoped-so to speak-over the Doctor's.  I had always an inquiring mind, and a tendency toward experiments.  I had a sharp stick in my hand, and inserted it playfully under the portion of Lloyd's horse nearest me.  The experiment was an eminent success. Mousey, by way of passing on the compliment, seized Whitey by the rump, and gave him a nip that brought away the fur by the handful. Whitey having nothing before him to get even on, whirled half round, at the risk of his rider's neck, and went for his assailant "for all there was in sight."  Mousey lifted his heels, and my horse caught the full force of the shock.  Things rattled, and the air for the moment was blue with Cursing.  When order was at last restored, we rode on in sulky silence.  They were mad, and gave me no credit whatever for good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Alas! not so.  There is no limit to the duplicity and deceit of human nature.  Lloyd and the Doctor heard my story in silence; saw me unpack my game, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:and display it with honest pride, with an expression of contempt upon their faces; then led the way exultingly to where <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
027.sgm: game was hanging.  There were exactly twelve dozen quails, tied neatly in bunches of two dozen each, hanging on the walk.  I was staggered.  After examining them Closely, I remarked that I had never seen so great a quantity of game killed with so slight an expenditure of ammunition-there was not a shot-mark to be found on any bird in the entire lot so far as I could See; and nearly every one had his neck dislocated, or head crushed in.  Travelers, according to popular opinion, are inclined to exaggeration, and will sometimes indulge in something very like outright falsehood, when the truth would fall short of creating the desired sensation.  From my youth up I have been a hunter, and association with sportsmen and travelers has had a tendency to fill my mind with suspicion and doubt, as to the genuineness of trophies of the chase exhibited as the result of hunting expeditions, and the entire reliableness of travelers' tales. When Gordon Cumming returns to Europe, from a raid on the game of South Africa, it is a notorious fact that it is next to impossible to find any first-rate lion-skins, leopard-skins, or elephant-tusks of extra large size for sale in the markets of Cape Town and Natal. In our own country, unscrupulous parties have not unfrequently brought obloquy upon the entire fraternity, by returning from a hunt with more game than they could possibly have shot within the number of hours they were out, even if the game had been ranged before them in platoons, and <illus entity="a027-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOUNTAINEERING.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>Next morning we were in the saddle again at eight o'clock, having despatched our game and firearms by the express to San Francisco, and ran our horses at the dead jump all the way to San Quentin, arriving just in time to get on board the boat for the city. As the boat glided away down the Bay, we looked back from its deck and saw the mountain standing out bold and free from cloud or fog in the bright morning sunlight, and bitterly thought of the experience of yesterday.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Thus, truthfully and dispassionately, after the lapse of months, have I written up this history of our great hunting, fishing, and warlike expedition to Tamalpais. As I have already remarked, Tamalpais is one of the finest of the lesser mountains of California; an attractive mountain to look at from Russian or Telegraph Hill.  It is there all the time.  You may see it any day; and you may have it all for me.  The experiences of that trip disgusted me with it for all time, and I go there no more.  Adios, Tamalpais!</P>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII. NAPA VALLEY AND MT. ST. HELENA.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>From San Francisco to Vallejo.--What we Saw while Crossing the Bay of San Pablo.--The Valley of Napa.--A Moonlight Evening in the Mountains.--Calistoga by Moonlight and Sunlight.--The Baths.--Hot Chicken-Soup Spring.--The Petrified Forest of Calistoga.--The Great Ranch and Vineyards.--Ascent of Mount St. Helena.--What we Saw from the Summit.--Reminiscences of the Flood.--Story of the Judge and the Stranger.--" Presently, sir, presently!"--Good Joke on the Robbers.--What happened to Me in Arizona.--A Good story, but too Appreciative an Audience.</P>
027.sgm:<P>A  SOFT September afternoon; cloudless, warm,quiet, hardly a breath or breeze to ruffle the Bay of San Francisco.  The summer winds, the curse of San Francisco, have died out, and one can enjoy life once more in the immediate vicinity of the metropolis of the Pacific.  Brown, and looking as old as the hills on which she stands, is San Francisco, the wonderful city of a day, in her russet coat of summer dust, as we look back at her from the steamer's deck. Straw color, mauve, and ashes of roses, are the tints displayed by all the mountains around the Bay, save old Tamalpais, who, clad in royal purple, looks grandly down upon us on the westward as our steamer glides swiftly past frowning Alcatraz, Angel Island and the Red Rock, the Dos Hermanos and the Dos Hermanas (Two Brothers and Two Sisters, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:curious round rocks rising from the bosom of the Bay), and glide into the Bay of San Pablo, with the pretty old town of San Pablo peeping out from beneath the evergreen live oaks, and exotic shade trees, on the Contra Costa shore on the right, and San Quentin, with its gloomy State Prison, on the Marin county shore on the left; and beyond, nestled in a little valley away up under the dark shadow of Tamalpais, the picturesque village of San Rafael, a noted health-resort for San Franciscans.  Through the Bay of San Pablo, past Mare Island, with its navy-yard and barracks, our steamer moves, and turning abruptly northward, just as we catch a glimpse of the straits of Carquinez, opening eastward towards Martinez and Benicia, rounds to at the railroad wharf at Vallejo, some thirty miles from San Francisco. We saw two schools of porpoises playing in the waters of San Pablo Bay; thousands of pelicans and shags crowding the rocks at the Dos Hermanos, a number of huge fish, sturgeon or salmon, or both, leaping bodily out of the smooth waters; and a remarkably pretty girl, Spanish-American we judge, among the numerous passengers upon the steamer, as we came along.  Masculine and human, we paid comparatively little attention to the birds and fishes. Vallejo, a large, straggling, ambitious village, standing where a City, like one of those which cluster around New York, may stand years hence, claims and receives but a passing glance, and we are on board the cars, gliding swiftly northward, out of the reach of the cool ocean breezes, and into one of the fairest valleys <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The sun has gone down in the purple west, and the full, round autumn moon climbs the Eastern horizon as we glide away northwards through the valley of Napa.  The still, pure air is illuminated by the rays of the moon to an extent hardly to be credited in less favored lands beyond the Rocky Mountains; and trees, rocks, houses, vineyards, orchards and shadowy mountains stand out clear and distinct; every object within a range of many miles is seen almost as if by daylight. The valley is one wide, yellow stubble-field, only broken by patches of vineyard, long banks of grain in sacks, piled up in the fields, and left uncovered for months with perfect impunity in this rainless season; huge stacks of straw and hay, pressed into bales for the market, and white farm-houses, many of them Very Costly, indicating the possession of wealth and taste by their proprietors.  At intervals we pass through natural parks, where the mighty live oaks are scattered through the whole broad valley, like apple trees in an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:orchard.  The mountains on either side of the valley grow more abrupt and rugged as we advance northwards.  The deep green <HI REND="italics">chemisal</HI>
027.sgm:<P>By our faith, it is a glorious land.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh, Christ! it is a goodly sight to see<LB>What Heaven has done for this delicious land!<LB>What fruits of fragrance blush on every tree-<LB>What glorious prospects o'er the hills expand!</HI>
027.sgm:<P>We gaze upon the swiftly-passing panorama for an hour in silence, and then to turn our companion on the next seat.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Charley, did you ever" see anything more beautiful in your life?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Beautiful! magnificent! gorgeous! sublime!  Our language has no fitting terms for it.  Why her eyes would have driVen Mohammed mad--her teeth are bands of pearls, and her blue-black hair would shame--"</P>
027.sgm:<P>`Twas ever thus!  We might have known it from the start.  That Spanish girl has set him as mad as a March hare.  Well, well, we too were young once; and come to think of it to-night, it don't seem such a very long time ago either.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The bell has been rung, and the name of the station called for the last time, and a long-drawn, exultant whistle from the locomotive startles Charley at last from his dream of Paradise and "the black-eyed girls in green," as it announces our arrival at Calistoga.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The noise of wheels rattling swiftly over the gravel walks, horses galloping away to the mountains; then the loud clangor of the hotel bell, and the long-drawn whistle of the locomotive, awaken us betimes in the morning.  The sun is already high above the green-clad, rock-capped, rugged mountains on the eastern side of the valley, when we came out upon the piazza to take our first daylight view of Calistoga.  It is glorious! Eastward, a long range of mountains, fantastic in form, abrupt and rugged, skirts the whole horizon.  A long <HI REND="italics">mesa</HI>
027.sgm:, bench, or table, on the summit shows where the great river of lava flowed away from the crater southward towards the Bay of Suisun ages ago. Northward rises, majestically bold and beautiful, Mt. St. Helena, Cutting off the valley in that direction.  The foot-hills and sides of this mountain are green in spring time and early summer, and golden later in the year, with the rank growth of wild oats, which covers the whole face of the Country where the plow has not disturbed the soil, up to the point where the old lava-flow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:covers all the soil and leaves no room for vegetation. All the lower valley lands are dotted with huge oaks, with pensile limbs like trailing grapevines, which fairly sweep the ground, and often loaded with greenish-gray moss, which gives the landscape such an aspect as that of the lowland Country of Texas and Louisiana, where the Creole-moss abounds.  Higher up, the pines and redwoods bristle on every height, and fill every ca&ntilde;on, imparting a sombre grandeur to the scene.  Westward, a range of foot-hills, densely covered with oak, manzanita, and the peerless madro&ntilde;o, skirt the valley; and back of them, farther towards the ocean, towers a higher mountain range, breaking the sea breeze, and shielding the valley from the chill ocean fogs, the terror of visitors to San Francisco.  Before us, at the foot of a conical hill, covered with grapevines, flowering shrubs and magueys (the "century plant" of Eastern hot-houses), and surmounted with an oriental summer-house, is the plain hotel building; and running around the grand rise which encircles "Mount Lincoln," is a row of neat Cottages, each with its large yard filled with flowers and thrifty-growing palm-trees in front.  Over to the southeast of the hotel stands a large structure, from the doors and windows of which steam is escaping. This is the great swimming-bath house.  From many points along the level ground in that direction steam rises from the black earth, and a small creek of hot water, gathered from many sources, runs away through a deep, wide ditch.  Mud baths, steam baths, shower baths, sulphur baths, and every kind of bath, in fact, <illus entity="a027-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOUNT ST. HELENA, FROM CASTILOGA.</P>
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027.sgm:are here provided for by nature-only the houses for hiding the bathers from general observation being a work of art.  Centuries ago, the unlettered Indians of the Pacific coast were accustomed to resort here to soak away rheumatism and the many ills which aboriginal flesh is heir to, by wallowing in the hot, black, sulphurous mud, which boiled and bubbled like the witches' broth in infernal cauldrons. Wide grain fields, trim vineyards, and tea plantations spread away in all directions from the hamlet which surrounds the hotel. The proprietor of all this magnificent--I may say princely--estate of Calistoga, is Samuel Brannan, one of the most enterprising of the early business men of the Pacific coast,  He has recently disposed of all his productive property in the heart of San Francisco, and come here to make his home, and devote the autumn of life to building up as a monument of his energy, taste and public spirit, the great health and pleasure resort of California.  The soil is wonderfully productive; the air in autumn, winter, and early spring pure and bracing; in summer tropical; the mountains round about are filled with attractions for the tourist and pleasure-seeker, and altogether Calistoga is one of the pet institutions of California,  Just across the way from the hotel piazza is a little house, enclosing a spring of peculiar character.  The water is clear as crystal, scalding hot, and impregnated with mineral substances of wonderfully health-restoring properties. A dash of salt and pepper causes a bowl of it to become, so far as sight, taste. and smell can distinguish, the exact counterpart of fresh chicken broth.  Many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>In front of the hotel stands a curious rude grotto or summer-house, apparently composed wholly of short sections of tree-trunks, unhewn and rough, placed endwise one upon another.  A closer inspection reveals the fact that the trees from which these sections were broken were of solid stone. Ages and ages ago there stood upon the summit of one of the mountain ridges on the west of the valley,. some seven miles from the present site of Calistoga, a grove of great redwood trees, which, by some process of nature, became changed into stone, more enduring and permanent than the "everlasting hills" themselves.  For years the fact of the existence of this phenomenon was unknown to the residents of the vicinity, the thick chapparal effectually hiding the fallen trunks from view.  In 1870, one of the terribly destructive fires which sweep over the mountains of California and Oregon year after year, laid bare the summit of this hill range, and the ground was found strewn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Professor Marsh, of Yale College, who examined the petrifaction, on the ground, in 1870, came to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:conclusion that the trees had first been overthrown by earthquake force, and buried beneath the <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
027.sgm: from Some ancient eruption of Mount St. Helena, the summit of which is fully ten miles distant in a northeastern direction on the other side of the valley; then petrified by the action of acids contained in these volcanic deposits, and in the lapse of time again uncovered by the wearing away of the overlaying tufa by the action of the rains and storms.  There are grave difficulties in the way of the acceptance of this theory.  The locality is situated at an elevation of not less than 2,000 feet above the sea, and from 1,000 to 1,200 feet above the valley which intervenes between these hills and the mountain from whence the volcanic matter is supposed to have come. I hazard a purely unprofessional and gratuitous suggestion, that the trees were gradually petrified while they were yet upright and living, through the slow absorption at the roots of silic acid, which exuded from the rocks beneath and impregnated the soil around them.  As the process of petrifaction progressed and extended upwards, the trees became top-heavy, and fell over from their own weight, the roots having become too brittle through decay or petrifaction to assist in sustaining them in their natural erect' position.  The fact that the roots and lower parts of the trunks only were petrified-no fragments of the boughs are to be found--strengthens this last hypothesis.  However, there is nothing on earth so cheap as theories--certainly nothing more worthless-and the reader can take his choice, or reject them all and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:form one of his own, if he pleases.  On the whole. it is quite likely that he or she will get along just as well without any theory whatever--the petrified trees are there anyhow--and in doing so, save himself and mankind generally a world of trouble.  I have observed in my capacity as a journalist, that the detective or other officer who forms a theory in regard to the perpetration of a crime, invariably warps all the facts to accommodate them to that theory, and in nine cases out of ten ends by going wide of the truth, and having the mortification of seeing some dull-headed, non-theorizing plodder carry off the reward for the discovery of the criminal.  As a rule, what is cheap is not worth having at any price, and the mere fact that a theory on any subject costs nothing at the start, is rather against it than otherwise.  I used to have theories on politics and religion and social economy years ago, but I found that they kept me in hot water all the time, so I discarded them all, and have had abundant reason to thank a merciful Providence for having done so.  As a rule, theories don't pay. It is true there are exceptions.  I once knew a famous southern journalist who retired from the pursuit of his profession, and settled down as a theoretical and practical sheep-raiser, in Coural county, Texas.  He had a theory.  It was, that the sure road to fortune--for others--lay in buying blooded sheep for improving the native breed. He succeeded in convincing his fellow-citizens of the Lone Star State of the truth of this theory, and became rich by selling them the sheep at round prices.  But you will readily observe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The road leading up to the Petrified Forest from Calistoga is a romantic and beautiful one, and the trip on a pleasant morning or evening in the early springtime, when the hills are clad in vivid green, and the manzanita and the madro&ntilde;o are in blossom, loading all the air with their sensuous fragrance, is one to be enjoyed to the utmost, and ever after remembered with pleasure.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"There is no beauty in star or blossom<LB>Till looked upon with a loving eye;<LB>There;s no fragrance in spring-time breezes<LB>Till breathed with joy as they wander by."</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Beautiful for aye to me are the stars which look down in their glory on this valley and these mountains; more fragrant than the winds from the sweet south, which have passed over "the Gardens of Gul in their bloom," are the soft breezes which I have here breathed with a tender joy unutterable.</P>
027.sgm:<P>A two-mile ride through the fertile valley takes one to the foot of Mount St. Helena, and a winding carriage-road, supplemented by a bridle-path, leads thence to the summit of the grand old mountain. The tourists who every summer are whirled through this valley up to the Geysers and back again in hot haste, vainly imagining that they are seeing, when they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:are in truth only "doing" California, know not what a treat they are missing in passing by Mount St. Helena without ascending it.  The mountain rises only 4,345 feet above the sea, its altitude being really less than that of Mount Washington, in New Hampshire, but it so far overtops the surrounding hills and lesser mountains, that the view from its summit is grand and extended beyond the power of words to depict.  From the broad Pacific on the west, to the snow-capped Sierra Nevada, which skirts the whole eastern horizon, and from San Francisco and the mountains of San Mateo, Alameda, and Santa Clara in the south, to the Black Buttes of Marysville and the valley of Russian River, the redwood forests of Mendocino and Sonoma, and the high mountain country of the Lakes on the northeast, northwest and north, the view is unbroken and uninterrupted, save by the isolated peaks of Mount Diablo, Tamalpais, and a few lesser landmarks of the Golden Land.  The view from the summit of Tamalpais is worth a journey from Europe to behold--that from St. Helena is worth a hundred of it.  To the stranger there is enchantment in the scene; to the old Californian, history, romance, suggestive memories, in every feature of the scene. Look over there to the eastward beyond the intervening coast-range foot-hills into the valley of the Sacramento! Who, standing here and looking down for the first time upon that broad, straw-colored valley, dry as the dust of the highway, and glimmering in the hot sunshine, would believe that a few years since it was one wide sea of turbid waters, forty miles from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>In those days people joked and laughed in the midst of their misfortunes with true California humor. Well do I remember hearing a party of the "drowned out, standing on the deck of a steamer which was carrying them to San Francisco, and relating with grim facetiousness the mishaps and adventures of the hour.  One rough-bearded fellow, with a pale, shrinking, feeble woman by his sided and a half-clad, sick child in his arms, told how, while the family were clinging to the boughs of a tree just above the surging waters, they saw a house going swiftly down the stream, with a Chinaman sitting quietly astride the ridge of the roof.  "Halloa, John! where are you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Away over there in the northwest, among the forest-clad hills which skirt the Valley of Russian River, is the favorite stamping-ground of certain amateur hunters and fishermen from San Francisco: members of the bar and occupants of the bench, who come here to .spend the summer vacation, "camping out," roughing it, shooting, fishing, swapping anecdotes by the blazing camp-fires far into the glorious nights, and growing little poorer in pocket, while growing rich to abundance in the health, strength, and elasticity of spirit which they carry back to the city with them.  Judge -----,  of the U. S. ----- Court, in San Francisco, is one of these choice spirits.  He is as captivating a talker as you may meet in many a long year's journeyings around this sinful world.  His fame has gone out through the land, and everybody now knows him by sight, or reputation at least.  It was different years ago.  Once upon a time, a party of these city sports were camping in the mountains, and having a jolly good time.  one evening a stranger came into camp, and as he appeared to be a nice, quiet, sociable, intelligent gentleman, he was made free to everything for the night.  He soon showed himself not only a good story-teller, but something still dearer to the Judge's heart--a good listener.  After supper, he seated himself upon a log before the blazing camp-fire, and the Judge, placing himself between him and tile fire, crossed his hands under his coat-tails, bent his face in close proximity to that of his victim, and went for him for all be was worth.  An hour-two, three hours passed, and still the Judge talked on; and still <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"See here, Judge, I have something that I would like to speak to you about for a few moments!"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Presently!</P>
027.sgm:<P>An hour passed and the man&oelig;uvre was repeated, with the same reply--</P>
027.sgm:<P>Presently!"</P>
027.sgm:<P>Another hour, and another member tried it on.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Presently, sir; presently, I tell you!" was the Judge's somewhat impatient reply.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Another and another tried it with like success, or want of success, and at last all gave it up and turned into their welcome blankets.  All through the weary night the party turned uneasily in their blankets from time to time, and still heard the Judge going on--and on--and on--the stream of talk flowing as steadily and remorselessly as the stream of Time, which singeth as it flows-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"And men may come, and men may go,<LB>But I go on forever."</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Morning broke over the grey mountains at last, and the party arose to prepare for breakfast.  The fire had gone out, but the Judge stood there as he had been standing on the evening before, with his hands clasped behind him, his back bent towards <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Years passed on, and the "road agents"who had long made it lively for the travelers and expressmen in the Sierra Nevada and the gold districts of the foothill country of California, finding the old stamping-ground becoming comparatively unproductive, shifted their base of operations over to-the western and southern parts of the State, and set to work with fresh energy to gain a livelihood by the industrious practice of their profession.  In the spring and summer of 1871 they affected Sonoma county to a disagreeable extent, and cleaned out stage-load after stage-load over there in the northwest, about Cloverdale.  You can see the road with the glass, there where it winds <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Gentlemen, I regret to disappoint you and give you so much unnecessary trouble, but the fact is, you have made a trifling mistake, This isn't a stage. We are a party of peaceful citizens bound on a hunting and fishing expedition, and haven't got so much as a dollar in cash, a watch or a ring in the party.  We don't carry 'em when we go on such a trip. It isn't safe.  You know how it is yourselves!"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Oh, cut it short!  Save the rest for the next party.  Git down there d--d quick!" was the emphatic remark of the leader of the gang.  The beau and wit got down in despair, and held up his hands. Then a woebegone visage was protruded from the side of the vehicle, and in solemn, sepulchral accents, a new address commenced as follows:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Gentlemen, it is not often that I am called upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Great G--d, boys!" fairly yelled the leader, as he recognized his man, "if this ain't old Judge -----, I'll be d--d!  Let's get; for if he gets to talking to us, we'll die right here of old age or starvation!" and in half the time it would take me to tell it, the whole gang broke, as from the presence of the cholera, and disappeared in the chaparral from whence they came, never halting even to say good-by.</P>
027.sgm:<P>That reminds me of the fellow who came up to me with an Apache arrow sticking in his back, on the Skull Valley road, in Central Arizona.  He -----</P>
027.sgm:<P>It pains me to be compelled to cut that story short at the above point, but love of truth impels me to say that I never had an opportunity of finishing it in the presence of that company.  Just as I started to tell what the poor fellow did, I heard one of the party remark to another, "No insane asylum in mine, if I know' it!" and a moment after observed them all, one by one, my beloved and trusted companions, crawling off over the rocks, like so many skulking Apaches, toward the spot where the horses were tied.  When I overtook them, just as they were getting into their saddles, they assured me that they always liked that story about the Judge.  They considered it "very neat and very appropriate."  Well, so they did, and so do I; but I cursed in my heart the set of over-appreciative wretches who could draw a moral so fine, and put it in practice so suddenly.  I like fun; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX. WAITING UNDER THE MADRO&ntilde;O.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>Dreaming of the Tropics again.--The Honey.Bee in California.--A Good Joke on the Bear.--In the valley of the Shadow.--Ni&ntilde;a Hermosa.--On the Red Desert.--Fair Alfaretto.--Burning the Mezquites.--The Curse of the White Man.--A Wild Night's Bide in the Sierra.</P>
027.sgm:<P>HERE, under the great Madro&ntilde;o, on the gently sloping hillside we, the trout-fishing party, the Doctor, with his Henry rifle, moodily bent on somebody or something, he cares little what, so that it is large and dangerous-a grizzly, if he can find him; a California lion, if one comes in his way; a wild-cat, or an eagle, if nothing better offers; or possibly, by the rarest good fortune, a specimen of the mighty mountain vulture of California, first cousin to and almost the counterpart of the giant condor of the Andes--and myself, less aspiring hunter after pigeons, and such small game, were to meet and lunch after our morning's wanderings in the mountains.  "I am either the first man up, or blamedly belated!" remarked the incorrigible drunkard, as he awoke in the coffin, in which his appreciative friends, by way of experiment, had conveyed him to the cemetery and left him beside a new-made grave; sat up, rubbed his eyes, and looked around him under the impression <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:that the last trumpet had blown, and the dead of all time were called upon to come forth in response. There is no one else in sight, and I see no chicken bones, empty champagne bottles, or other"" of a lunch party having been here.  On the whole, I think I must be the first man up on this occasion. I wonder where that Bill is with the lunch basket? It is barely half-past twelve o'clock, but I was off at daybreak, and climbing rocky mountain sides, and pushing through tangled chaparral and the blackened stumps of thickets, run through and killed by last autumn's fires, is tiresome work, especially when the few pigeons you see keep half a mile out of the way, beyond the reach of a gun, as they have done with me all this morning.  I <HI REND="italics">would</HI>
027.sgm: like to see Bill about this time.  <HI REND="italics">Hall-o-o-o-o-o-a</HI>
027.sgm:!  HALL-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-A! No response.  Well, this is a nice place for a quiet nap-anyway, and the air is just warm and soft enough to make it a luxury.  I will improve my time.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Ah me!<LB>The hours o'er which we have least cause to weep<LB>Are those we pass in childhood, or in sleep."</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The first haven't come my way of late, but I can put in as square a day's work at the last as any man I have ever met yet.  The Madro&ntilde;o boughs are loaded down with great, fleecy masses of creamy-white, bell-shaped blossoms, fragrant as the magnolia, and I see the black and yellow honeybees swarming over them, while their low, steady humming falls with a soothing effect upon my drowsy ear.  Even so I listened to and listlessly watched them, as I sat beneath <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:the cocoa palms and breathed the fragrance of the orange and <HI REND="italics">primavera</HI>
027.sgm:<P>If the California bears have not found out how good the honey is, the fact does no credit to their intelligence.  In the valley of the Mississippi the bear is the wild bees' most persistent enemy.  But <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:the bees sometimes make it very lively for him.  I remember an old Arkansas hunter who told with infinite gusto one anecdote in point.  Said he: "I had heard an angry growling and snapping in the bushes, and I knowed that a bar was thar and in trouble; but for the soul of me I couldn't make out what it was. I allowed that perhaps he might have got a bullet into him, and was tryin' to work it out by mouthing it; bar will do that sometimes; so I just crawled like a cat through the underbrush for about ten rods, pulling old Grim--that's what I used to call my old Kaintuck rifle for short--after me, and going mighty cautious, not to be heard.  The growlin' and snappin' kept up all the time, and it was no trouble to find the right place.  Jest when I got to the edge of the brush, I looked out into a little open space whar thar was no bushes, and right in the middle of it I seen a bar sittin' on a bee-gum that had been blowed down and split open, and jest shovelin' the honey into his mouth, hand over hand. The bees they was as thick as hair on a dog's back, all around and over him, and the way they was puttin' in their best licks in the way of stingin' him onto the nose and around the eyes and mouth, was a caution to snakes, you bet.  Every time he shoveled a handfull of honey into his face he would give a growl and a slap or two at the bees. Arter a while, he reached forard a little more nor usual, and the bees seen a bare spot on his rump--bars has a bare spot on their rump generally, whar they wears the har off, sittin' down and turnin' round--and they went for it, for all there was in sight.  This startled him like, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Up from the depths of the deep ca&ntilde;on, over on the other side of the narrow valley, at the foot of the hill, comes a long-drawn bugle-call, and I turn drowsily over and gaze in that direction, half impressed with the idea that I shall see again the long-drawn lines and glancing arms of the Guard of Jalisco filing through the barrancas at the foot of the volcano of Colima.  But there rises no smoke from the summit of yonder mountain--the volcanic fires died out ages and ages ago in the crater of St. Helena, and I look in vain down the winding valley for the green palanquin, with the grey-haired statesman and wanderer in many lands, borne by white-clad Aztecs, and the gallant Zomeli, the <HI REND="italics">beau sabreur of</HI>
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027.sgm:<P>I wonder where Bill can be.  I could stand the loss of the rest of the party, but he is my friend indeed, or would be if I could see him.  If I thought I could find a good dish of <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
027.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
027.sgm: in the camp of those Mexican or Chileno charcoal-burners over there in the ca&ntilde;on, from whence the bugle-call came, I would start on the instant, and let the rest of the party go; but the chances are ten to one that they have become demoralized, living among the Yankees and Pikes, and I should find only black coffee in the place of the delicious <HI REND="italics">chocolate de Tabasco</HI>
027.sgm:, fried bacon for <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
027.sgm:, and saleratus or yeast-powder biscuit for the <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
027.sgm:<P>I believe I will take a smoke. Why did I not think of that before?  The tobacco of Orizava is meat and drink and rest, all in one.  Leonardo Sandoval, proprietor of "LA FABRICA DEL BUEN GUSTO EN GUADALAJARA," you are a noble fellow, though anti-tobacco-nists may say what they please; and you are my friend!  You have the soul of a poet, too, in your bosom, else this would never have been printed in letters of gold upon the wrapper of the package of your cigarritos, which by unbounded good luck I find in my pocket:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB><HI REND="italics">Ni&ntilde;a hermosa, Ya que te di&oacute; natura bondadosa Dientes de perla, labios de coral;  La ambrosia Aspira solo de la escencia mia Y har&eacute; tu aliento puro, angelical.</HI>
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027.sgm:<P>Your head is eminently level, Se&ntilde;or Sandoval!  I endorse your sentiments to the very letter.  <HI REND="italics">Si Ni&ntilde;a hermosa</HI>
027.sgm:, I know her well!  Teeth of pearl, lips of coral; that is her description to the life!  Hang me, Leonardo, if you are not an artist as well as a poet and tobacconist!  When next I enter your shop on the corner of the street of the Aduana and San Felipe, in orange-embowered Guadalajara, I will cultivate a more intimate acquaintance.  <HI REND="italics">Ni&ntilde;a hermosa</HI>
027.sgm:<P>It was in the autumn of 1863 when the mad rush across the Colorado Desert, to the newly found gold and copper mines beyond the Colorado, in Arizona, was at its height.  The heat and dust, and consequent sufferings of the poorly outfitted participants in the rush, were terrible.  What will not man suffer for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Uncle Billy Thompson and myself had taken a "short cut" across the desert from San Gorgonio Pass, eastward toward the Colorado, to avoid undesirable company; we lost the trail, and wandered on the red hot desert sands, and in the sun-baked adobe mountains, without water, until our tongues parched in our mouths so that we dared not talk; and before our longing eyes the leafless <HI REND="italics">palo verde</HI>
027.sgm: shrubs turned to lofty palm trees, waving their green leaves in tropic breezes; and the mirage changed scattered volcanic rocks into great cities, whose long, level streets were lined with rows of palaces, such as the good Haroun Al Raschid raised in the city of the caliphs.  By one of those freaks of fortune which some men call "miracles," others "special Providence," others "lucky chances"--and for which we thanked God in the silence of our hearts without stopping to call it anything--we had found a little deposit of pure water under a rock, left a day or two before by a cloud-burst, which had torn a channel like that of some great river, for twenty miles through the gravelly sands of the desert, and disappeared like a dream, leaving no other trace behind--had shared the life-giving element with our famishing horses, taken rest and new heart, and traveling on, passing the spot where others less fortunate had lain down in despair and died, had reached a hospitable camp, and been saved at last. We had journeyed thence in safety at last to the land of the accursed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:Apache, wandered into the red mountains of Arizona, made our "locations," and separated-he to toil in the mines and fight the treacherous, prowling Indians for years, I to return to home and Civilization.  Alone I had made the return trip from La Paz to Chucolwalla, and thence to Tabasaca and Callon Springs, where the faithful old buckskin steed Muchacho Juan, companion and friend in all my wanderings, had fallen down and died in terrible agony, after eating the poisonous weed of the desert known as " <HI REND="italics">muerto en el campo</HI>
027.sgm:<P>It was two A.M. when I wearily climbed the summit of the divide between Dos Palmas and the Palma Seca, and looked down into the great plain below. When the last man looks down on the wreck of the universe, and sees our world going back into chaos, without form and void, he will not behold a scene of more utter and savage desolation, or find himself wrapped in a silence more truly terrible.  The full, round moon flooded the whole landscape with mellow light, but naught of life was to be seen; the ghastly pallor of death was upon and over everything. Southward to the horizon stretched a great plain of snowy salt--the grim and silent ghost of a dead sea of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:past, which once covered all this accursed land, but being cut off by volcanic changes in the country below from the Gulf of California, dried up beneath the blazing sun of the south, and passed away forever. Across this vast white plain, as across the waters of a placid lake, the moon threw a track of shimmering light so bright as to almost dazzle the eyes of the beholder. Right in this glowing pathway of light, far out in the centre of this ghostly sea, where foot of man hath never trod; lay what appeared in the dim distance the wreck of a gallant ship, which may have gone down there centuries ago, when the bold Spanish <HI REND="italics">Conquistadores</HI>
027.sgm:, bearing the cross in one hand and the sword in the other, and serving God and Mammon, and the Most Catholic King of Spain and the Indias, with exemplary zeal, were pushing their way to the northwest, in search of souls to save for the love of Christ, and new kingdoms to plunder on shares.  They sought then in vain for the fountain of youth, El Dorado, and the far-famed "Seven Cities of Civola." The fountain of youth lies ever just beyond the western horizon; we shall find it, and drink of it, and bathe in its waters bye-and-bye; the kingdom of Civola, from whence came the gems and treasure of Montezuma, lay even then in ruins in central Arizona, as we know to-day; and El Dorado they found, but knew it not, leaving it to us, who long years after came in and possessed the land, and made it to blossom as the rose, and to our children's children, to shout "Eureka!" over its abounding wealth.  To the southwestward, beyond the western shore of the ancient sea, the Coyotero <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>As the grey light, creeping sluggishly over the glacier mountains, announced the Coming dawn, I limped <illus entity="a027-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CROSSING THE DESERT.</P>
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027.sgm:into the thicket of rank, bitter-leaved arrow-wood which surrounds the bitter and nauseous alkaline springs of the Palma Seca, drank of the slimy waters, filled my canteen afresh, and pushed on again down into the plain, with a walk of twenty-five miles through alkaline dust, in the hottest valley on the surface of the earth--seventy feet below the level of the sea at that--before me.  About ten o clock, a ranchero from San Bernardino, who had been out to the new gold mines of Arizona with a drove of beef cattle, came up and joined me.  His horse, a noble, fine-haired half-breed, far too good an animal to be brought out Into this accursed desert to die of heat, thirst and starvation, was so weak that he could no longer bear the weight of his master, and jogged mechanically on, with his eyes closed and his ears hanging down, like two frost-bitten tobacco-leaves, as his late rider limped before him, packing his blankets on his shoulder, and pulling sadly at the halter.  Noble--such was the name of my friend from San Bernardino--had been a jaunty-looking young fellow when I saw him starting out for the mines from home six weeks before. When I met him that day he was a fit subject for the pencil of Hogarth.  His coat had dried up and vanished, piece by piece, in the thorny thickets beyond the Colorado, and his vest had followed suit; his hat was a wreck, his pants in ruins, and the uppers and soles of his boots having parted company, he had, in a fit of desperation, parted company with both.  To replace his boots, he had split his lower nether garment in twain, and bound the sections around his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Opposite where we met that morning was a broad sheet of dried mud, broken from the bed of what in the moment of a cloud-burst had been a roaring torrent, capable of sweeping away a whole train in an instant, as one was swept away near there in 1866, when men were drowned and their bodies Carried miles away into the desert, and set up on end like a grave-stone.  Some passing miners on the back track had spent an hour or more in Cutting an inscription on this monument, as follows: "In memory of the Infernal Asses who left home, square meals, and the comforts of civilization behind them in San Francisco, and sought their eternal fortunes among the mines in the blessed regions beyond the Colorado, of which are we.  This monument was raised at the joint expense of the merchants of Los Angeles and San Bernardino, who drove a thriving trade, and had a grand thing out of it while the excitement lasted.  And of such is the kingdom of Heaven."</P>
027.sgm:<P>We looked at each other and at the monument by turns with mournful interest.  The cork of Noble's canteen flew out with a pop, propelled by the force of the sulphur gas generated from the half-boiling, stinking water, as it was shaken about as he limped along. "Here, Fly-up-the-Creek--I've forgotten your other name--take a drink!" said he.  "You are another, my beauty, and I cannot refuse!" I replied, and swallowed a mouthful of the nauseating fluid.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>There is nothing more picturesque than a caravan on the desert--when seen in a picture, when you sit comfortably at home in a civilized country.  Believe me, beloved of my heart, 'tis indeed distance lends enchantment to the view.  That expression is, I believe, <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Higher and higher climbed the sun into the unclouded, copper-hued sky, and hotter and hotter grew the motionless desert air, until the point where breathing would become an impossibility, and the whole apparatus must catch fire and burn up, seemed almost reached.  The treeless mountains which shut in this desert basin on all sides, keep out at this season every breath of life-giving breeze, and the sun pouring into it, as into an old-fashioned tin bake-oven, makes everything fairly hiss with the all-consuming heat. Mile after mile I plodded on, leaving Noble and his exhausted horse far behind, the heat and thirst becoming more nearly intolerable at every step.</P>
027.sgm:<P>And now in the distance, along the western edge of the valley, arose great pillars of smoke--thin, and straight, and slender--to a vast height; then spreading outward into the semblance of wide-limbed trees, whose roots were firmly planted in the earth, whose giant trunks rose in the middle air, and whose branches filled all the heavens above.  Toward these pillars of smoke I bent my weary steps; and at last, just as it seemed that my bleeding feet would bear me no further, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>When I awoke the Indians were all gone, save the pitying woman who had brought me the water.  She was sitting at a little distance off watching me, and as she saw me awakening, she ran and brought me another canteen of the Cool water.  Her language was a sealed book to me, as mine to her, and our conversation was necessarily limited to a few words of Spanish which pass current everywhere on the southwestern border, and are understood in their conventional meaning by all.  She was barefooted and bareheaded, and marked with the small-pox. Her raiment was of the scantiest, and it was painfully evident that the stock of soap and Cologne water in the parental <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>There is a little river, called the Aqua Blancho, issuing out of the San Bernardino Mountain, at the San Gorgonio Pass, at the upper end of the valley, and sinking in the sands of the desert soon after reaching the plain.  Its waters are pure and cool, but no tree nor blade of grass grows on its desolate banks. From its source in the barren rock-ribbed mountain to its sink in the desert sands, through all its course, it is an accursed river, flowing ever in silence through a land accursed.  But after it sinks and is permanently lost to sight, it contributes something to the comfort of mankind.  It supplies the poor Coahuilas' wells fifty and a hundred miles to the southward, and nourishes a growth of the mezquite trees along the western side of the valley.  In these mezquite groves the Indians have what is left of their villages since the small-pox has decimated them; and from the trees they gather the long, yellow, sugary beans, which, pounded into a paste and baked as bread, form with the pinons, or mountain pine nuts, almost their on!y diet the year round.  The small-pox was a terrible infliction upon them, but a more terrible one followed close upon it.  When the Indians of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Lying here to-day in the fragrant shade of the blooming madro&ntilde;o, on the green-clad heights of the mountains of Napa, watching the smoke curling upward from my fragrant cigarrito, something--what it is I cannot tell--recalls all this to mind and memory; going backward through the years, reproduces the picture once again in all its startling, painful vividness</P>
027.sgm:<P>H-a-l-l-o-o-o-a there!  Thank Heaven, an answering call comes back at last, and I see the Doctor, with his rifle on his shoulder, coming slowly up the mountain--and Bill is with him.  Bill is my friend.  Sunburned American, never shall any man call you black <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Not much luck to-day, Doctor?  Well, the exercise will do you good, and that is a consolation at any rate.  You certainly needed it.  People in San Francisco eat too much and drink too much, take too much sleep and too little pedestrian exercise.  They don't perspire from one year's end to the next. There is all the difference in the world between this climate and that of San Francisco; and, if I am not mistaken, there is still more between this and what you were used to the season you hibernated up there in the Sierra Nevada?</P>
027.sgm:<P>Yes, there <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
027.sgm: some difference, and no mistake. Many a night I have curled myself up under three pairs of California eight-pound blankets and shivered all night long.  While you are in motion you do not feel the cold so much, but when once you lie down and attempt to sleep, it would take a pile of blankets like Mount St Helena over there to keep you from freezing to death, unless you had a roaring fire going all the time on one of those stormy nights.  And a physician has almost a dad certainty of being called out on the darkest and wildest nights for his longest rides to attend on patients who cannot wait a moment under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>It was in the winter of 1868-69, when I had just been placed in charge of a division near the summit of the Sierra Nevada, on the then half-finished Central Pacific Railroad.  After a long day's ride, I came back to the boarding-house at ten o'clock in the evening, and was told that a messenger had been there from Camp No. 10, with a request that I would lose no time in hurrying over there to attend upon John Smith, who was in a very critical condition.  The messenger had been very urgent, and it was evidently a case of life and death--nothing less.  I took a few minutes to consider.  I was tired out, and wanted sleep badly, but could, on a pinch, go a little farther without breaking down entirely. The moon would be up at eleven o'clock, and the night was still and clear, though the snow had only just ceased falling, and was from five to eight feet deep on the level, if you can use the expression properly where there is nothing like a level to be found, and the roads--or trails, rather-are obliterated by the drifts. I inquired about the location of Camp No. 10.  It was twelve miles away, and directly over a ridge, or spur, of the mountains.  My own horse could not stand the trip, but a  big lubber of a cart-horse, that they said was a good saddle-horse, was offered me.  I got supper, put on dry socks and an extra pair of fur-lined over-boots, and, just before midnight, was in the saddle and off.</P>
027.sgm:<P>A good saddle-horse! The brute belonged to the nightmare family, and his mother must have taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The lights had disappeared.  "Halloo the house, there!"  No answer.  "Halloo the house!" louder and longer than before.  A panel in the side of the nearest cabin opened slowly and cautiously, and after time enough had elapsed to allow of a critical examination of the party outside, a voice demanded: "Who you, John?  What you wantee catchee here?"  It was a Chinese wood-cutters' camp, and there was not a white man about the place.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The Johns told me that there was a camp-of white men on the other side of the ravine I had just crossed, and perhaps half a mile farther up the mountain; they thought it might be "Camp Numble 10."  Half an hour's floundering through the snow brought me back to the point whence I had sighted the lights, and soon after one A.M. I was at the white men's camp. I roused the inmates more easily here, as they were indulging in a little friendly game of "pitch," or "draw"--that being Saturday night--and had not retired to their virtuous bunks.  No, that was not Camp No. 10, my informer told me; and, what was worse, Camp No. 10 was right over the summit of the mountain, a mile and a hall away.  I could go around by the trail three miles, or ride up to the railroad-track, tie my horse, and walk through the snow-sheds, a little more than a mile-it was contrary to the rules to take an animal inside the sheds</P>
027.sgm:<P>I started up toward the track, and reached it at two A. M.  The night was now clear and still; not the slightest noise could be heard, and the silence was something awful and oppressive.  The last man and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The moon, now unobscured, was high in the heavens as I entered the snow-shed, and it was not very difficult to keep the way, as the light came scintillating through a thousand cracks and crevices in the rough timber structure.  Three or four culverts, to allow the passage of mountain streams when the snow is melting, checked my progress for a brief time, but there was a plank across one or two, for the convenience of "foot-passengers,' and as the water was hard frozen, I got old Jerky around the others in safety</P>
027.sgm:<P>The worst was over, and I was already beginning to chuckle over the adventure, and pride myself on my forethought and pluck in making the venture,  I had, undoubtedly, saved at least an hour of hard work wading through the snow, and possibly--not improbably, in fact, saved a life. Just then I heard a low, tremulous, humming noise running along the frost-laden rails, and instinctively checked my horse to listen.  It had subsided for the moment, and I went on in silence.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:Suddenly it commenced again, and seemed louder and clearer than before. I halted again. God have mercy upon me! I exclaimed involuntarily. It was the rumble of the wheels of a coming train, beyond a question.  I sprang to the ground and placed my ear to the rail.  The train was coming from the west; it must be a "construction train," laden with materials for the road, and possibly with laborers as well. The track occupied the full width of the shed, allowing only for the overhang of the cars.  A man might escape by lying down; but a horse was almost sure of death, and if the train struck him, it must go off the track almost inevitably.  I was upon old Jerky's back before I was even aware of what I was doing, and started down the grade, to the eastward, as fast as his stiff and clumsy legs, urged by whip and spur, and the attraction of gravitation, could move him. Clearer and clearer came the humming noise; and I heard, at length, a short, sharp whistle, as the rushing train entered a tunnel, turned a sharp curve, or passed out of a tunnel. It could not be more than two miles, or three at most, away.  Jerky skated over the ice-patches, and floundered through the small snow-drifts which had filtered in through the crevices in the shed-work, but reckless of danger to limbs alone in presence of the greater danger to myself, and perhaps hundreds of my fellow-men, I whipped and spurred unceasingly, and drove him on at the height of his speed.  Nearer and nearer came the train.  I could already hear the chough, chough, chough of the locomotive behind me.  At last I saw an opening in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>I fell on my knees to pray, but, before I had uttered a word, the thought passed through my brain that I might throw the horse down, and pull him through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The train rushed on, as it seemed to me, with lightning <illus entity="a027-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NO TIME TO LOSE.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>I don't think the engineer saw us at all.  I did not see him, so far as I could remember afterward.  It was half an hour before I could gather strength enough to regain my feet.  When I did so, I got my exhausted and bleeding horse upon his legs, and replaced the wreck of the saddle upon his lacerated back, securing it, as well as I could, with some thongs cut from the edge of the rein, and my pocket-handkerchief, torn into strips, and prepared to resume my journey.  In a ca&ntilde;on, filled with the black shadow of the mountain, I saw what appeared to be the dim <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"You sent for me, I think, Mr. Smith?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Well, yes, I did send for you; but I'm kinder sorry now that I did, for I have concluded to go over thar to-morrow on business, anyhow."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"But the messenger said you were dying, or the next thing to it-- <HI REND="italics">almost</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"Well, yes, I was pretty considerable scared at the time.  You see I had a eruption come out right bad on my leg, and I was afraid it might be pleurisy, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>He sat down on the side of his bunk, and pulled up the drawers from his right shin: there was a patch of ringworm there, about the size of a silver dollar--and that was all. I made use of some strong expressions. I don't often swear, but I felt aggravated, under all the circumstances, and considered myself justified.  I still so consider.  Mr. Smith heard me through. Then he arose majestically to his feet, and thus relieved himself:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Young man! I jest put you up for a derned fool, on first sight-an' I wan't sold <HI REND="italics">much</HI>
027.sgm:!  Ef you hain't got no more sense nor to git mad `bout trifles, you'll have many a long day ter wait `fore you'll be called on again to visit this camp--an' it's goin' to be a right lively camp in the spring, you bet!  I <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
027.sgm:<P>I took his advice, and " <HI REND="italics">got</HI>
027.sgm:<P>There they come at last!  I can see their horses winding around the ridge across the ca&ntilde;on yonder. Bill, unpack the basket, and have everything in readiness for the lunch.  Hunters, fishermen and clergymen generally have powerful appetites.</P>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.<LB>AROUND THE MOUNTAIN CAMP FIRE.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>The Fountain of Youth.--Hunting for Trouble.--Mike Durfee's Snake.--The Days of '49.--A Tragedy in the Redwoods.--When shall we Three Meet Again?--Story of the Champion Mule of El Dorado.--How a Green Down Easter Struck it Rich.--Result of Misplaced Confidence.--Sensational Reports Deprecated.--Out-Door Amusements in Arizona.--An Alarm in Camp.--The Mountains by Moonlight.--Parting under the Madro&ntilde;o.--Adios!</P>
027.sgm:<P>NOWHERE on earth, I think, does one so relish food and drink as around the camp-fire.  On the treeless plains of the West and Southwest, in the rugged, Indian-haunted mountains of Western Texas and Central Arizona, even on the bare, hot sands of the deserts of Nevada and Southern California, there is always a weird attraction, and a sense of hearty enjoyment in the evening around the camp-fire. Some of the happiest hours of my life, many of them, I may say, have been spent around the camp-fire, and ever and anon the old longing for wild life and dangerous adventure comes over me even in the busiest hours of city life, and the desire to shake civilization and all its comforts and refinements, and go back to the wilderness, becomes almost uncontrolable.  The charm of danger is year by year being lost to camp life in California, but exciting adventure may still be found, and there is nothing equal to a glowing campfire to bring out anecdotes of the past and re-awaken <illus entity="a027-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AROUND THE CAMP FIRE.</P>
027.sgm:the recollections of the wild life of other days; or, as Beranger would express it:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The brave days when we were twenty-one."</HI>
027.sgm:<P>And of all places on earth for solid comfort in camp there is none like California.  The pure, dry, mountain air is always so healthful and invigorating, and the nice, dry ground is worth all the spring mattresses in Christendom for a bed. And then it never rains in California during the spring, summer and autumn months. Given a shot-gun, a rifle, fishing-tackle, blankets to sleep in, a frying-pan, coffee-pot and cups, a little flour, salt, pepper and a few sundries, and a bunch of matches, and, with two or three jolly companions--it is none the worse if the party is half made up of ladies, so that they are possessed of sense and know how to rough it and enjoy it-your "outfit" is complete.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Better fifty years of Europe than a cycle of Cathay."</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Better one month of camp life in the California mountains, than years on years of life at the fashionable "watering-places" and "summer resorts" of the East and Europe.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Ponce de Leon sought in vain for the Fountain of Youth in the swamps and forests of Florida--he was looking in the wrong direction.  I found the fountain years ago up in a quiet ca&ntilde;on, under the madro&ntilde;o trees, in the mountains of California; and every time I drink of its waters and camp by its side, Time, at my bidding, turns back in his flight, and I am only a boy again.</P>
027.sgm:<P>We lunched with such hearty satisfaction, and found the mountain air and scenery so much to our liking, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>There are always people who will go poking around hunting for trouble and disagreeable things wherever they happen to be.  Curse all such people, I say! What is the use of it?  "Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof" is the wisest saying between the lids of the bible, and I travel on it.  We had one of these people in our party, and he knocked around in the bushes until he found a rattlesnake.  It did not bite anybody, and was not looking for anybody to bite, and if it had not been stirred up with a stick and set to rattling, no one would have known it was there. As it was, it frightened the ladies and destroyed the pleasure of the party for hours.  More fool the man who found it.</P>
027.sgm:<P>I can recall one incident in my lifetime, and one only, in which snakes had a healthy effect and rendered a service to humanity.  Some ten years ago the San Francisco bar numbered among its members many jolly, good fellows, who were given to free indulgence in the pleasures of the table, and not unfrequently passed the limits of prudence, and wrestling too ardently with old King Alcohol, were thrown and severely hurt.  Among them was Mike Durfee, now a strictly temperate man, a successful lawyer and an exemplary citizen, after nearly all his old associates have succumbed and passed away.   When Mike <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:"went on a tear" it was a long and desperate one, and its result was a foregone conclusion, The reporters for the daily press of San Francisco were sitting one morning in their special quarter in the Police Court room, taking notes of the trials and sentences of the thieves, vagrants, burglars, wife-whippers, drunkards, and all other offscourings of humanity who attend the daily levees of his honor, when Mike, who, in pursuance of his time-honored custom, had been "running all night," and was just on the debatable ground between sudden reform and <HI REND="italics">delirium tremens</HI>
027.sgm:, came in, and leaning up against the partition which separates the reporters from that of the shysters, fell fast asleep.  Seeing him in that position, the writer reached over to the chair always occupied by poor old Dick R---- (Rattlesnake Dick, as we used to call him by way of affectionate endearment, was a special favorite with all the reporters of that day), and pulled out a little roll of curled hair from the cushion.  This hair was rolled into a hard wad, about the size of a large marrowfat pea, and dropped quietly inside of Mike's shirt-collar, where it lodged without in the least disturbing his slumbers.  The morning wore on and the business of the day was nearly concluded, and still Mike slept on.  At last a case was called, in which Mike was interested, or supposed to be, and the bailiff in attendance shook him by the shoulder, with the emphatic adjuration, "Here Mike, wake up; your case is called!"  Mike awoke with a start, and stepping out promptly in front of the Judge's desk, threw out his right arm in oratorical style, began--"Your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:honor, I propose--"  At that instant the ball of curled hair, which had been confined between his shirt-collar and his neck, set free by the change in his position, commenced rolling down his chest upon the unprotected cuticle, like a spider with ten thousand sharp, clawed feet, going after his prey in a hurry. Mike felt it, and every nerve in his system thrilled in response, as if struck by the shock from a galvanic battery.  Springing about four feet clear of the floor, he yelled in wild despair, "WHOOP! HELL'S BLAZES! SNAKES!" and came down with a jar which shook the whole room, with hair on end, eyes in frenzy rolling, and face of the hue of death; fairly gasping for breath, he snatched at his collar convulsively, tore it open, and following the descending serpent with desperate haste, tore every button off his shirt bosom in succession, grasping the dread monster at last as it paused in its career at its waist, where his pants were cinched so tightly that it could go no further, drew it forth, with hand trembling so that he could scarcely hold it, and sank faint, sick and helpless into a chair.  Meantime the commotion in the Court room was something indescribable. The Judge sprang to his feet in astonishment and ill-concealed apprehension; the spectators and members of the bar, under the impression that Mike had gone suddenly crazy, or been violently attacked with the <HI REND="italics">delirium tremens</HI>
027.sgm:, were seized with a panic, and upsetting chairs,. benches and each other in their haste to get out of his reach, fled from the room, as the demon fled from the chamber where the fish of Tobit lay--probably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:holding his nose as he did so--while to crown the uproar and confusion, a tail policeman who had been sitting with his feet braced against the large upright stove, and his chair tipped back, straightening himself out in his effort to rise and join in the flight, sent the stove end over end on the floor, the long pipe following suit, and coming down on the affrighted crowd joint by joint, flinging clouds of sticky coal-soot and smoke in all directions.  When the stampede was over at last, and Mike had so far recovered from his attack of snakes as to be able to comprehend the situation, he arose, tottered over to the reporters' desk, and thus freed his mind: "By--, if I murdered the man who put that centipede in my bosom, any jury in Christendom would render a verdict of justifiable homicide!  But, boys, <HI REND="italics">it's my next deal</HI>
027.sgm:<P>And Mike kept his word like a man, stopped drinking entirely, devoted himself to the practice of his profession industriously, rose step by step in public estimation, and now holds an important office, to which he was elected by the votes of his life-long friends and acquaintances, many of whom to this day tell with infinite gusto and roars of laughter the story of Mike Durfee's snake.</P>
027.sgm:<P>We built a glorious camp-fire in the little opening like an artificial clearing in front of the great madro&ntilde;o, and with the remnants of our lunch and the spoils of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:the forest and mountain streams, got up a supper that a prince might envy.  Did you ever roll a mountain trout in wet paper or green leaves and roast him like a potato in the hot ashes?  If not, you have yet to learn the first lesson in gastronomic enjoyment. Soyer was a fool!  I will match a California mountain trout so cooked against all the "made dishes" he ever produced, and trust to any jury on earth for a verdict in my favor; no, in favor of the trout, I mean. After supper, when we had made up our quarters for the night and gathered ourselves comfortably around the blazing camp-fire, the fun commenced.  Few of the stories brought out on such occasions will bear the test of repetition in print.  It wants the mountain air, the wild, romantic surroundings, the jolly companionship and good fellowship to give them the hearty zest which makes them so enjoyable at the moment.  How quickly the "forty-niners" go back to the mining-camps and the wild scenes of those early days, and live over again the life of the pioneer gold-hunters, who poured in a torrent over the Sierra, and, in an almost incredible space of time, searched every ca&ntilde;on, nook and crevice of the mountains for the precious metal, tore up the soil of every hillside from Siskiyou to Fresno, marring and disfiguring the whole face of nature for all time, and then leaving their cities and villages, which had sprung up like Jonah's gourd in a single night, to fall to decay and slowly disappear from sight, and almost from memory even, scattered far and wide over the whole earth, little dreaming of the true wealth of El Dorado <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>As the hours of evening wore on, one and another took up the story of pioneer life, and many an anecdote, new to me and hitherto unprinted, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>After the first rush to the placers, and when the building of permanent towns had fairly commenced, lumber fit for building purposes became in great demand, and in the forest near the sea coast, where transportation was readily obtainable, immense camps sprung up, and the scenes of the flush times in the mines were repeated.  Lumber was worth hundreds of dollars per thousand feet, and money was gained and lost with a lavishness and rapidity almost incredible in these days.  In one camp in the redwood forests of Humboldt, not far from the present town of Eureka, there were some six hundred men at work, and business was lively, in every sense of the word. There were two "stores" at which articles for miners' and lumbermen's use-heavy clothing, groceries, provisions, and notably whisky and cards-were dispensed at round prices.  Every store in those days was a saloon, and a gambling-house as well; and poker, monte, faro and fights were the order of the day and night.  It was no uncommon thing for a prosperous gambler on a Sunday morning to knock the head out of a barrel of whisky, put a tin cup in it, and set it in the middle of the store, for all comers to help themselves free of charge.  And it was the dearest whisky man ever drank at that, for nine out of every ten who partook of it left from ten to a thousand times its nominal value at the gambler's bank before he went home that night. The feast of Belshazzar was nothing to the wild carousals which took place sometimes in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:that camp.  There were six of us in our cabin-no two from the same State, I think--and a pretty good crowd we were generally.  But whisky and gambling will tell in the end, and they.did on us.  Among the party was one tall, finely-built, athletic man, of some twenty-eight or thirty years of age, who went by the name of "Kanoffsky."  The name would indicate a Polish Jew, but he was evidently nothing of the sort, and the name was like that of half the others in camp, merely assumed through caprice or the desire to conceal identity while the possessor was laboring to retrieve a broken fortune or a ruined character.  I always thought that he was a collegian, probably a graduate of Harvard or Yale, and he was undoubtedly a New Englander of good family.  Curiously enough, his boon companion was a rough, uncouth, uneducated Missourian, who went by the common nickname of "Pike," about the last man in the world one would think to attract the sympathy and secure the confidence of an educated gentleman, such as "Kanoffsky" evidently was.  But misfortune and mining excitements make strange bed-fellows. Their intimacy was casually remarked upon by everybody iii camp, but in those days we thought little of any social phenomena--we had little time or inclination to think long and seriously about anything--and for a long time nothing important seemed to come of it. But at last an event occurred which startled and excited the whole camp.  One dark, stormy Sunday night in the mid-winter season, when the wind roared through the forest in broken, savage blasts, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:rain fell in torrents, at brief intervals snatches of star-light intervening, Kanoffsky and Pike were absent until far past midnight, and we had all retired to our bunks with a certain undefined feeling of impending trouble, which every one has felt at times, but which no one can ever fully explain and account for. At last Pike, with an uncertain step, was heard coming in alone.  He seated himself before the huge log fire, which had burned well down, but still gave off a ruddy glow from its great heap of fresh coals, partially lighting up the entire cabin, and drawing off his wet boots, remained toasting his feet for some time in moody silence.  To inquiries as to the whereabouts of Kanoffsky, he replied somewhat testily that he did not know: that he had left him down at the stores half drunk early in the evening, and knew nothing more about it.  His manner was peculiar, and produced the impression on myself and companions that he had been in difficulty with some one, probably over some gambling affair, and was "out of sorts," as well as a little drunk.  While he sat there over the fire, one of our party got up, went outside and brought in another back log, which he threw upon the fire to prevent its burning out entirely before morning, and compelling us to rekindle it with matches and wet wood--a task of some difficulty.  As he turned back from the fire, he remarked, "I stumbled over something outside there which I cannot make out!  It felt like a bag of shot!"  Pike looked up uneasily but said nothing.  The man who had been out took a brand from the fire and stepping back to the door, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Well, damn you, if you all must know, it's mine!" growled out Pike at last.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Where the mischief did you get such a bag of dust as that?" said one.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Pike, who now seemed now to be half drunk and half crazy, replied, "Well, it's none of your damned business anyhow; but if you must know, I got on a little spree down at the camp, and some of us cleaned out that Jew store."</P>
027.sgm:<P>Starting from my bunk, I exclaimed: "Boys, there has been murder here, sure as heaven.  That old Jew and his son never submitted to be robbed while they had the breath of life!eft!  Pike, you must consider yourself a prisoner."</P>
027.sgm:<P>The words were hardly out of my mouth, when Pike sprang up, and grasping me by the throat hurled me back upon the bunk with a savage imprecation, swearing that he would kill me on the instant if I did not take them back.  All three of my companions were on him at once, and though he struggled like a madman, as he was, we got him down at last and tied him.  Then he suddenly changed his tune, and tried to laugh it off.  It was only a joke, he said, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>We were more convinced than ever that there had been murder, and one of the party volunteered to ride over to the main camp, some mile and a half distant, and find out what had occurred, while the other three kept guard over Pike.  He started off and was gone about two hours.  Just after daybreak he returned with a crowd of companions, all deeply excited. They had gone to the Jew's store, found it closed but not locked up, and on entering with lights, had beheld a spectacle frightful beyond the power of words to describe. The store was kept by a Jew of some fifty-five or sixty years of age, and his son, a boy of eighteen or nineteen, both of whom usually slept in the place. The old man lay on the floor of the main-store-room, horribly chopped and mutilated with a hatchet, his skull fractured, jaw broken, one ear chopped off, and a great number of cuts on his head, face and breast, but still breathing.  The floor was covered with blood, like that of a slaughter-house, and the marks of a desperate struggle for life were everywhere visible. In the back room they found the boy literally hacked to pieces and cold in death.  The drawers had been forced open and rifled, and a trunk, kept under the counter and used for storing gold dust, coin and valuables, for want of a safe, stood smashed open and empty on the floor near the body of the old man, who lead evidently fallen in attempting to defend it from the robbers, who had entered by the front window and rear door simultaneously.  The news spread like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The party, consisting of four persons--himself, Kanoffsky and two others who had escaped on horseback to the mountains and were never arrested-had planned the robbery some weeks before, and waited patiently for a dark night to carry it into execution.  After the robbery and murder, Pike, in a spirit of recklessness or insanity--he could never give any reason for his conduct-started directly for our cabin, intending to hide the bag of gold-dust in a hollow stump, or some similar receptacle convenient to the place, until he could get it safely inside the house; but finding none in the darkness, brought it on until he reached the door, then laid it down where it was found, and went in to think the matter over and decide how he should dispose of it.  Had one of our party not gone out to get the log to replenish the fire, it is probable that he might have succeeded in getting it hidden after all, and possibly escaped suspicion of being connected with the murder, as the two of his companions who escaped would naturally have been credited with the entire transaction.</P>
027.sgm:<P>A Lynch Court was organized immediately, Kanoffsky and Pike tried, found guilty, and sentenced to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Kanoffsky denied all connection with the affair from first to last, and the place where he had hidden his share of the plunder was never found, though search was made for it for years.</P>
027.sgm:<P>A similar murder was committed in Tuolumne county in 1851, and the money, amounting to several thousand dollars in coin, buried by the murderers near the cabin.  It was sought after for years; but it was not until twenty years later, in the summer of 1871, that a party of miners sluicing away the hillside where the cabin had stood, unearthed it and shared the spoil between them, all the original actors in the tragedy having passed away meantime.  The plunder hidden by Kanoffsky may possibly be unearthed in some such manner years, or centuries even, hence. When the execution took place a minister was sent for, and he labored earnestly for hours with the murderers Pike and Kanoffsky, but all in vain--not a sign of repentance or contrition did either give.  Led out at last to the tree on which they were to die, the halters were placed around their necks, and they `were asked if they had anything more to say.  Pike said he had told the whole story and had nothing more to say.  Kanoffsky called me to him, and, holding out his hand, said, "Well, good by, old fellow; I can't blame you!  When it's all over, write to my ----" He stopped there, thought a moment, and then said, "No, you needn't though; it is better as it is! Here, <illus entity="a027-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WHEN SHALL WE THREE MEET AGAIN?</P>
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027.sgm:<P>Who or what Kanoffsky was we never learned, the secret of his real name and history dying with him. That night all hands in camp went on a general spree, and the carousal was kept up until far towards daybreak.  The keeper of the other store furnished the liquor, and got blind drunk on it himself before the spree was over.  Everybody admitted that he kept very mean liquor. Among the crowd were two young fellows, less intoxicated than the rest, and they finished up the performance by going out and cutting down the bodies of Kanoffsky and Pike, bringing them into the store, and setting them them up against the wall. They then took the storekeeper, propped him up between them, and left him alone with the dead. When he awoke from his stupor next morning and looked around him, the face of a ghastly corpse, with the rope still around its neck, grinned at him from either side; and on the floor at his feet were scrawled with chalk the familiar words: "WHEN SHALL WE THREE MEET AGAIN!"  He went out of that place on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Practical jokes were common in those days, and the jokers were by means fastidious as to the manner of playing them or their result.  If life and limb were endangered, so much the better.  I remember a man in Placerville, then called "Hangtown," from numerous little episodes in its history, which had resulted disastrously to parties involved in them, who owned a mule, which was admitted to be the champion animal for pure, unadulterated viciousness on the Pacific coast. He would start on the slightest hint.  The rattle of a tin pan was poison to him; and in running away, he always made it a point to knock down and injure somebody. If he stampeded, and did not get a chance to kill or maim some one, he felt he had to account for a day wasted, and would stand for hours in deep dejection, his ears hanging down limp and lifeless: then suddenly rush across the street, whirl around and kick with all his might at a child or woman, by way of getting even and making up for lost time.  It was a standing joke with the jolly boys of Hangtown to lend him to a party of newly arrived miners, to pack their traps to some placer mining-camp, and at the hour for starting gather in front of the express office to see him go off like a rocket, scatter everything right and left, and break for the chaparral, leaving the astonished gold-hunters to gather their traps and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:lament over the blasting of their prospects at their leisure.  It was as much as a man's life was worth to go within reach of his heels; and it was necessary to muzzle him to keep him from eating everybody who came within reach of his jaws.  One day a remarkably green specimen of the veritable "down-east Yank" came into Hangtown from the plains, and inquired for the nearest and best place to make a fortune in the diggings  He was kindly directed to a promising gulch, and, as he was hard up, the use of the champion mule to pack his grub, tools, blankets and traps was generously tendered him.  He proposed to start at eight o'clock next morning, and all the jokers in town, comprising the larger share of the male population of the place', were on hand at the appointed time to see him off.  Promptly at the time, the greenhorn from the land of steady habits made his appearance, and commenced to pack the mule.  The heavy <HI REND="italics">aparejo</HI>
027.sgm: was placed on his back and securely cinched; flour, beef, bacon, etc., etc., strapped on that, and then a miscellaneous collection of pans, kettles; shovels, picks, etc., etc., corded on top of all, and the load was completed.  Up to this time the mule had stood there as quiet as a lamb, but the fun, as all save the greenhorn in that goodly company well knew, was about to commence.  The owner of the mule invited all hands to take a drink, at two bits a glass, and the invitation was cheerfully accepted.  They all shook hands with the victim, and bid him God speed on his journey as he came out of the saloon and made ready to start.  The piazza and sidewalk were crowded, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>It was noon when the greenhorn reached the gulch to which he had been directed, and presented a note from the owner of the mule to his partner, who was mining there in a claim, which had formerly paid handsomely, but was then nearly worked out,  The wink went around the mining party when the letter of introduction was read, and on the innocent victim inquiring for a "first-rate spot to dig out the gold in big chunks," he was directed to a tree up on the side hill, some two hundred feet above the level of the gulch, as a first-rate point at which to stick up the usual notice and commence.  The victim meant business.  He did not propose to waste any time in looking around, and at his request one of the party wrote <illus entity="a027-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AN UNEXPECTED FIND.</P>
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027.sgm:him out a mining-claim notice, which he at once posted on the tree as directed.  There was not the trace of a "color" anywhere near that tree.  In fact, it was evident to the eye of a professional miner at a glance that gold would never be found there.  But the green-horn, in blissful ignorance, pulled off his coat, rolled up his sleeves, and went in at once to dig a prospecting hole.  The party in the gulch below saw him gradually sink down into the earth and disappear, as hour after hour he plied the pick and shovel with sturdy arm and determined will, and many were the "winks and nods, and wreathed smiles," to say nothing of broad grins and hearty guffaws which went around at his expense.  About four p. M. they heard a shout from the prospecting hole in which he had disappeared, and a moment later he came out with a bound like a deer, and yelling like a madman, came down the face of the hill twenty feet at a jump, holding high above his head a nugget, or "chispa," of pure gold, weighing over $900. All was-excitement in the camp in a minute.  The chispa was examined and its character decided at once.  Then they examined the hole, and decided that he had struck upon a pocket, or seam, of decayed quartz, where the gold set free had not been washed, and had remained undisturbed in its place. Such pockets often paid enormously. A lucky Irishman once found one near where the Catholic Orphan Asylum now stands, on the hill above the town of Grass Valley, took out a wheelbarrow-load of gold in a few hours, went raving mad over his suddenly acquired wealth, and died in the State Insane Asylum.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Such pockets are good things to have.  The company in the gulch, in which the owner of the mule was a large stockholder, after some bargaining, bought the claim for $10,000, paid him down in gold-dust and orders on their partners, and hurried him off for Placerville early next morning, lest he should repent of his bargain and want to back out.  Next morning they were at work there bright and early, while he was collecting his money in Placerville, and getting ready to "go down to the Bay"-- <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
027.sgm:<P>On Saturday he returned with a face as long as the moral law, and black as a thunder-cloud.  The party who purchased the victim's claim, himself included, had worked it for three days in succession, and given the whole side hill a thorough prospecting.  They found two small nuggets, aggregating about $12, the first day; nothing on the second; and the third day was even as the one before it. They were sold, bilked, swindled, wronged, out and injured to the tune of $1  What became of the greenhorn they could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Rough practical jokers though these old miners and frontiersmen always are, they are proverbially sensitive to newspaper criticism, and ready at all times to resent any liberty taken with their names or reputations.  In an earlier chapter I have related how the man who fell from the roof of a three-story building on the corner of Montgomery and California streets, in San Francisco, compelled me to retract the assertion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>It is only two or three years since an old and valued friend, a kind-hearted, energetic and determined frontiersman, to whom I am indebted for many an act of true politeness and hospitality in a country where such words have something more than a conventional meaning, wrote to me as follows:</P>
027.sgm:<P>WICKENBURG, Arizona, -----, 186-.</P>
027.sgm:<P>DEAR COL.:--We have had a very unpleasant affair here this week.  Dick Snelling, whom you will remember, got on a spree, and being told that a Chileno, or a Portuguese, had threatened his life, got a shotgun and started hunting him on the street.  He unfortunately met a man who looked like the man he was hunting for, and shot him dad, and in the excitement of the moment scalped him.  Now, you know that I never favored scalping white men, but Dick is as good a fellow as ever lived. and if he had not been drunk he would not have done it.  He has got a nice family, and for his sake and for theirs I would not like to see an exaggerated account of the affair get into the papers.  Will you oblige by seeing that no sensational account of it is given in San Francisco? Your friend, ----- -----</P>
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027.sgm:<P>Willing to oblige a friend at all times, I gave merely the simple facts, without displayed headings as comments, and all was lovely The camp at last is quiet; the last story has been told, and the tellers, one by one, all save myself, have dropped off into the arms of sleep.  All is silence in the mountains.  Not a breath of breeze disturbs the foliage of the trees, and outside the camp not a living object is to be seen.  The moon, which had risen over the eastern mountains, floods valley and hill, forest and mountain, with golden light, beautifying and glorifying the whole landscape with its touch. The glassy green leaves of the great madro&ntilde;o overhead glow and glisten in the moonlight like a cascade of molten silver, and the dark laurels beyond the ca&ntilde;on are transformed into a golden-foliaged grove, such as glitter, rank on rank, by the banks of the rivers of Paradise</P>
027.sgm:<P>A dog which accompanied us on the expedition raises his head from time to time, and peers furtively into the dense chaparral, uttering a low, uneasy whine. His ears are sharper than ours, and he is conscious of the presence of an enemy unknown to us.  Suddenly he springs to his feet, and, darting past the dying fire to the edge of the chaparral, utters a wild, angry bark, and in an instant a heavy body goes crashing away through the bushes, with a long sharp "Yap-yap-yap-yah-hoo-ooo!  From the hillside above, from the ca&ntilde;on in the shadow below, from rock and glen, and glade and chaparral, comes a quick response; and for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The grey dawn creeps slowly over the eastern mountains; the horizon takes on the roseate hues of the inner surface of the sea-shell, then glows with gold and royal purple; and, as the forest air is filled with the song of birds, and all nature rejoices in the glory of the springtime, the sun rises grandly over St. Helena, and the whole landscape glows like molton gold at his touch.  On the bank of the grand canal, between Lakes Chalco and Tezcuco, in the valley of Mexico, stands a fonda, upon whose wall is painted the inscription, "A LA SOL DE CALIFORNIA." Who can stand here and behold such a scene as this, and not sympathize in his inmost heart with the author of that inscription?</P>
027.sgm:<P>And here, companions in my wanderings, friends of my heart, I leave you, one and all, and reluctantly say good bye!</P>
027.sgm:<P>Together we have galloped through the valleys and climbed the mountains in search of health, curious adventure, strange sights and scenes, and the beautiful in nature, in the glorious land of the madro&ntilde;o.  Perchance we have not accomplished all we anticipated when we started out; have missed something for which we sought; failed in something which we desired.  But we have seen much to remember, something that was new and strange, and cheated care <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI. THE CHINESE FEAST OF THE DEAD.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>Weird and Ghostly Scene in a Chinese Temple at Midnight.--The story of Concatenation Bill, and the True History of the Great Indian Fight on the Gila.</P>
027.sgm:<P>WHAT a strange, peculiar people are these Chinese! Dwelling among us, they are not of us; but are born and grow up, and toil and die here in the midst of the boasted civilization of the nineteenth century, just as they have been being born and growing up, and toiling and dying, for ages on ages, in the "Central Flowery Empire" on the other shore of the blue Pacific.  They walk the same streets and breathe the same air with us; but they do not talk the same language; do not act as we act; do not reason as we reason; do not think as we think,  From the cradle to the grave, the Chinaman is always a Chinaman, adhering to the traditions of his ancestors, walking in the footsteps of his fathers, careless of the approbation or reprobation of the rest of mankind, except so far as it may affect him pecuniarily.  Keen at a bargain, naturally quick-witted and sharp of comprehension, a patient toiler, and skillful at every kind of handiwork to which he turns his attention, he yet halts unaccountably on the shore of progress, and is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Among the strangest of the strange customs which the Chinese have transplanted on American soil, is the annual "Feast of the Dead."  Heaven comes nearer to the land of his birth than to any other land, and before he leaves it for barbarian regions he provides for the ultimate return of his bones for interment in the soil where his ancestors, in countless millions, sleep the last sleep.  Meantime he believes that the spirits of his departed friends linger lovingly near the place where their bodies rest for the moment; and so long as he remains within reach of their temporary resting-place, he, ever true to the traditions of his race, pays an annual visit of ceremony to it, and, with a solemn gravity which is incomprehensible to the average Caucasian mind, makes an offering of creature comforts for the delectation of the disembodied spirits with which his imagination peoples all the air.</P>
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027.sgm:an odd day on our leap year.  The feast of the dead came some years since in May, and I well remember visiting the Chinese quarter of Lone Mountain Cemetery at that time to witness the ceremonies.  Their New Year festivities are accompanied by an incessant roar of burning fireworks: crackers of every size, from those which pop in the slightest and most delicate manner, to those which make a report like a young cannon, are burned by the cartload at a time; but the feast of the dead is a more quiet and solemn affair.  The rich merchants, clad in the costliest silk and broadcloth, go on the first day, riding in the finest carriages procurable, and followed by express-wagons, loaded with pigs roasted whole, rice, fancy dishes, liquors, and other eatables and drinkables without number.  A messenger or herald rides on the outside of each carriage, and as he goes along throws off, right and left, handfulls of squares of thin, yellow paper, in the centre of which is a small, impressed character, or a bit of gold or silver foil, for what purpose I could never ascertain.  Next day, the artizans and manufacturers go in plainer carriages, clubbing together to make a load; on the next, the poor laborers and public women, riding in overcrowded express-wagons, carrying their meat-offerings with them in the same vehicle; and on the last day, the Miserably poor, the rag-pickers and garbage collectors, trudge humbly along on foot over the dusty road to the city of the dead, each Carrying in his hand the trifling offering, which his extreme poverty permits him after months of economy to provide for the occasion.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>An old and venerable member of the Christian church-a bright and shining light of the faith, who resides at Auburn, New York--once told me, while engaged in distributing tracts in the English language, which they could not read, to the poor native Protestants of Mexico, that he had learned, from long experience, that the true secret of Christian charity was to be able to do good unto others without costing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The Chinaman his not been able to quite come up to this standard in his observance of the ceremony of the feast of the dead, but he comes pretty bear it, and in a few thousand years more may succeed in reaching it; but he will be a terribly mean Chinaman when that time arrives!</P>
027.sgm:<P>The feast of the dead, like our Christmas services, winds up with social gatherings, friendly reunions, a "feast of reason and a flow of soul," and a good time generally. The Buddhist temples are then decked out in strangely fantastic style, quite unintelligible to the white American.  The ceremonies at the temple at this time appear to be devoid of any marked religious character.</P>
027.sgm:<P>This year--1872--the feast of the dead came late in August, and I had the honor of assisting.  We were going home at midnight (a party of half a dozen, who had been indulging in that peculiar little game at which if you don't bid you lose, and if you do bid you go back and lose two bits more, so much affected in California on the last night of the feast), and had stopped at the corner of Dupont and Washington streets, to listen to the babel of many tongues, the screeching of the Chinese one-stringed fiddles, the dulcet notes of the tom-toms, and the clashing of the gongs in the gambling-houses, where infatuated <illus entity="a027-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHINESE BURIAL RITES.</P>
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027.sgm:Celestials were betting themselves poor at the game of "Tan," or in the restaurants where others were dining convivially.  It was a glorious moonlight night, such as one rarely sees, save on the Pacific coast, or in the tropics.  The whole air was loaded with the fumes of burning "joss sticks," or incense candles, made, from powdered sandal wood, fragrant gums, etc., the blue smoke of which rose from every door-way, open Window, crack, crevice, or cranny in the houses where the blue-bloused sons of China congregate, resting on the Chinese quarter like a fog on a Jersey salt-marsh, or a cloud of mosquitoes on a Mississippi river-bottom.  While we were standing there, a party of Chinese boys placed a row of these little joss-sticks upright along the edge of the gutter by the sidewalk, leading down to the centre of the block northwards, and set them all burning at once.  As the cloud of fragrant smoke rose up from them, a well-dressed Chinaman appeared and directed a servant where to place a large tray, or salver, on which was neatly arranged a hot lunch, prepared in the most attractive style of the first-class Chinese culinary artist.  The lunch being duly arranged on the edge of the sidewalk, he kneeled before it, chin-chinned repeatedly until his forehead nearly touched the curbstone, and then, to avoid the curious and irreverent throng of Caucasians, who were fast gathering about him, arose and hustled away the lunch into the house from which he came.  A huge mass of curiously curled, and twisted, and convoluted, and cornuted--and I don't know what not else--tissue paper, forming some emblematic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>We followed along the line of joss-sticks, and found that it terminated at the entrance of the narrow passage which leads in between two gambling-houses to the centre of the block, where stands the Buddhist temple, erected by the famous Chinese physician, Lipo-Tai, in demonstration of his gratitude to the Supreme Intelligence for his escape from instant death some years since by a gas explosion, which killed his companion, and disfigured him for life.  A crowd of visitors, Chinese and Caucasian, were moving in and out, and we passed in with the throng.  At the end of the passage we came to a stairway, which zigzags up on the outside of the tall brick building to the upper story, terminating on a balcony hung with Chinese lanterns of the most brilliant and striking patterns, each as large as a flour-barrel, from which you enter the temple proper.  At the last landing, below the top of the stairway, we stopped to look at a gigantic statue representing a "devil-man" sentinel, placed in an alcove, in a half-sitting, half-standing position, menacing the intrusive unbeliever, seeking for the Holy of Holies, with outstretched arm and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:fist doubled up, like a pugilist's in a prizefight.  A hideous mask answered for a face, while the eyes, lighted up from within, glared on the visitor with something of the weird. effect produced by <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Torches which have burned all night,<LB>Through some impure, unhallowed rite,"</HI>
027.sgm:<P>When viewed by the true believer.  The devil-man winked inquiringly at us, and we winked back at him, said "Press," and then passed on unmolested.  One of the party observed this pantomime, and enthusiastically exclaimed, "Well, you fellows of the press have got a good thing of it, haven't you?  If I don't mean to practice that, and try it on, when the time comes, on old St, Peter, may the ____"  We requested him to spare our sensitive feelings, and he did so, and did not finish the sentence.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The temple was ablaze with light, crowded by a wondering throng, filled with the choking blue smoke of the incense, and as hot and close as the furnace-room of an ocean steamer in the tropics.  The images representing Buddha, or Foh, the guardian deities of the southern, middle and northern districts of China, the Queen Mother of Heaven and her attendants, the black gentleman of whom it is always safe to speak respectfully, if not admiringly, and other objects of mingled admiration and contempt to the average Chinese mind, were all on their shrines in the different apartments or halls of the temple, and the usual lamps were burning before them.  But the visitors appeared to pay no attention to them, and, for the time being, at least, regard them with no respect.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>The extraordinary decorations for the occasion formed the attraction for the evening.  Fronting the great folding door-on the wings of which are painted a hideous monster. armed sentinels, etc., depending from the ceiling by crimson silken cords--hung a whatnot-like arrangement, representing in miniature the stage of a Chinese theatre, upon which a "celestial star dramatic company," in all the elaborate silk and gold embroidery, decked garments, etc., which pertain to their wardrobe, was grouped with really artistic skill and effect.  The scene represented a tableau in one of their historic dramas, and each figure, which was from two and one half to three feet in height, was a perfect counterpart in miniature of one of the well-known Chinese actors of the Jackson street theatre, which is visited by every stranger from the east of the Rocky Mountains, who comes to see the wonders and curiosities of California.  The features, which were of some hard material like plaster of Paris, were moulded with such cunning skill, that the expression was as perfect as life itself; and each actor could be recognized in an Instant by any person who had seen him once upon the real stage.  Five similar groups, each representing a scene in a play illustrating the history and traditions of the Central Flowery Empire, hung in different parts of the same principal apartment.  In one corner we saw two curious phantom horsemen, mounted on nondescript, half human, half animal, phantom steeds.  The framework of these figures was of the lightest split-rattan, and the superstructure light tissue paper of various <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>But the greatest attractions that night were two monster statues, twin giant ghost-warriors, who stood on either side of the hall in front of the great altar. These figures. were each fully eighteen feet in height, and were perfectly proportioned.  They were costumed in half-armor, worn over long robes of the most brilliant hues, elaborately ornamented and embroidered, and each wore the cap of a high mandarin, surmounted by the crimson ball, indicative of the first rank, and a tall, variegated plume.  The face of one had something of serene dignity and power in beatific repose upon it, and he held his right hand aloft, with the thumb, fore and fourth fingers slightly bent, and the middle and third fingers nearly straight--as do always the images of Buddha, or Foh, the representations of the incarnation of the Supreme Power and Intelligence, which are seen upon every shrine of the faith--while the right foot rested upon and crushed down to the earth a hideous, open-mouthed, writhing dragon.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>We ascertained that the statues, like the phantom horsemen, despite their imposing appearance, were nothing but rattan, tissue and gilt paper, and bits of looking-glass-trifles light as air, almost, which even a breath might knock over and demolish.  If they were intended to represent ghosts of the mighty dead' of the days when there were giants in the land, they' came near the mark; for anything more thin and unsubstantial to all the senses, save that of sight, could never have been conceived.  Only the cunning hand of a celestial artist could have put them together, preserved their anatomical proportions, and made' them stand there, erect, the very impersonation of hollow imposture.  We noticed that the celestial crowd laughed and talked, and wandered about without the slightest regard for the religious character of the place, and we came away amused and interested, but not a whit the wiser for any insight into the hidden meaning of all this pageant--if any meaning there was--than when we came.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>Coming back to Dupont street, I met a man whom I had last seen while on a hostile raid into the Hualapai Indian country, in Arizona, and our conversation, after the first greetings were over, turned upon one of the strange, peculiar characters with which the Pacific coast abounds--one we had both known--old "CONCATENATION BILL."</P>
027.sgm:<P>When and where he picked up the sobriquet, or it picked up him, we never knew; but, once attached to him, it became a part of his personality, and stuck to him thenceforth, through good report and through evil report, for the term of his natural life, and will be inscribed upon his tombstone, should fortune so far change her mood as to permit him to have one, which is a matter for doubt.  It was doubtful if he knew himself  It was probably all he had to show for his months of labor in some early mining-camp, when he left it; and, as the camp itself is doubtless long since played out, and numbered with the things which have been, but are not, what matters it where it was located, or who toiled in it?  In any event, it usurped the place of the name given him in baptism--if he ever was baptised--and, like most California nicknames, was appropriate.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"You are out of luck," said a rough-looking miner, to whom he had detailed his misfortunes, wanderings and misadventures for an hour.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Out of luck!  Well, I wish to Heaven I was; you may gamble on <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
027.sgm:, but I ain't.  Why, God bless you, stranger, I'm just in a perfect streak of luck from morning to night, and from one year's end <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:to another; and the <HI REND="italics">cussedest</HI>
027.sgm:<P>I will be just to the memory of my departed friend; he had.</P>
027.sgm:<P>He came across the plains in '49.  He started with a good outfit supplied him by friends in Illinois, who fitted him out "on shares" as a speculation.  He left them confident of large dividends, and those who are yet above ground are still waiting for them.  His best horse was stolen from him on the first night out from "St. Joe," and he traded off the other and the double harnesses for a yoke of oxen, with a cow thrown in. One of his oxen was gobbled up by Indians on the Platte, and having sold, given away, or thrown away half his provisions to lighten his load, he started on with the cow yoked in with the remaining ox.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The cow pegged out on the headwaters of the Humboldt, and he abandoned his wagon and rode the remaining ox down to "the Sink," where it also gave up the struggle, and left him alone in his misery. From thence he made the remainder of the journey on foot, camping by night with any family or party who would give him a supper and the use of a spare blanket.</P>
027.sgm:<P>All things must have an end some time, and he finished his journey at last, arriving at Placerville late in the autumn, worn out, ragged, and seedy to the last degree--the very impersonation of persistent bad luck--but still hopeful of the future, and obtained a situation as waiter at a hotel, with good wages. At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>There was a gushing young lady, who tended bar in a dance-house in Placerville, who had made his acquaintance before he made this "ten-strike," and now she suddenly discovered that he was a really good-hearted fellow, and not bad-looking.  She suggested that it would be a good thing for them to go into partnership, matrimonial and financial, and start a hotel at Coon Hollow, a new and promising camp not far from Placerville--which was then more familiarly known as "Hangtown."  The financial partnership was to be immediate and absolute; the matrimonial one, conditional and prospective.  The arrangement, though it might have pleased him better if slightly modified, on the whole met with his approval; they rented the hotel, and she started down to Sacramento to purchase the necessary outfit for the bar before starting in at "keeping tavern." She took his money with her, and-aid not return.  Bill borrowed fifty dollars of a sympathizing friend, followed her down to Sacramento, and there learned that she had gone "to the Bay" in company with a big red-headed fellow, known as "Sandy Bob," who came out with her from New York, and who, if not her husband, should have been. "No use following any further after <HI REND="italics">her</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Bill knocked around Sacramento until his borrowed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:fifty dollars were all expended, then got a situation as "assistant bull-whacker" on an up train, and made his way up into the mountains to Fiddletown, where he came across a friend, who took him into partnership in a placer gold-claim, which at the moment did not promise largely.  They "struck it rich," for a wonder, in two weeks sold out for a "big stake," and star.ted for San Francisco.  On the way down the river, on the steamer, Bill was induced to take a hand in a little friendly game of draw-poker, just to pass away the time, and succeeded not only in passing away the time, but also with it all his own money, and all his confiding partner's share as well.  In San Francisco he met with various adventures, finding temporary employment in a dozen different kinds of business, only to be thrown out of each in turn through some unfortunate occurrence, and find himself "dead broke" every time. When the Frazer River excitement broke out, he went up there, and came back "busted." Then he joined in the mid-winter rush over the Sierra Nevada to the newly-found Washoe silver mines, and found his way back again in the spring as poverty-stricken as ever,  Then he drifted southward, fished for sharks, and gathered abalones at San Pedro, and for a time made himself generally useless on a stock-ranch.  The Arizona gold excitement of 1862-'63 took him across the desert to the Colorado River. In the first camp he struck on the eastern side of the Colorado River, he set to work with a will to secure a valuable quartz claim--everybody was hunting up and locating quartz claims at that time.  He would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Next morning he was off bright and early, with his pocket full of ready-written extension claim-notices. Luck was still against him; he found extensions located in every claim in the mountains.  Late in the evening he was making his way back to camp, footsore, weary and dejected, when he stumbled upon a claim-stake on a <HI REND="italics">mesa</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"We, the undersigned, claim 200 feet each on the first northerly extension of this claim, and intend to work the same according to the laws of the United States and of this district. (Signed)<HSEP>"JOHN SMITH, "Job JONES et al.,"</P>
027.sgm:<P>he fastened it on the northern side of the stake, and started on toward camp with a lighter heart.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>Descending into the ca&ntilde;on, he came upon another claim-stake, and repeated the performance of putting up an extension-notice.  Fortune had favored him at last!  Two extensions located within an hour-he was a millionaire already, in prospect, at least, when he returned to camp.  That night he hardly slept at all.  His heart beat high with hop-visions of untold wealth floated unceasingly before his half-closed eyes.  Next morning he was up betimes, and invited his companions in the camp to go up with him before breakfast and take a look at his locations.  They went up the ca&ntilde;on and found that the last extension located was the result of an error.  All sorts of locations besides mining-claims were' being made--town sites, mill sites, etc., etc.; the last claim on which he had taken up an extension was for a slaughter-yard. The discovery lowered his spirits a peg, but he was still hopeful, and went on with the party up to the mesa to examine the first location.</P>
027.sgm:<P>When they arrived at the stake, and Bill bent down to read the notice, his face turned pale and he started back affrighted, as did Robinson Crusoe when he saw the footprint of the cannibal on the island of Juan Fernandez.  As I am a man and a Christian, he had located and agreed to work <HI REND="italics">an extension on a claim for a graveyard</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The joke got back to camp ahead of him, and Bill shot out of the place-an hour later. like a second Mazeppa, followed by a <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>----- 'loud shout of savage laughter,<LB>which on the wind came roaring after,"</HI>
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027.sgm:<P>from the lungs of every prospector within a mile of it.</P>
027.sgm:<P>He paused in his flight at a new camp near La Paz, and there had better luck for the moment.  He located on a small vein, or deposit, of "silver-copper glance," and sold it to a San Francisco capitalist for three hundred dollars.  With this money he started a modest and unpretending "dead-fall," proposing to supply the honest miners with liquor and cards at a handsome advance on original cost.  The first day's business was a success, and he began to entertain high hope of a change for the better.  Vain hope!  On the second day a stranger came into his shanty for a drink, and fell down dead with heart disease before reaching the counter.  Bad news travels fast.  In half an hour the rumor had gone abroad through the whole camp that the respected and lamented deceased (who had emigrated from Northern California or Southern Oregon on account of a lawsuit involving the question of title to a horse) had died just after, instead of just before, imbibing a glass of Concatenation Bill's best whisky.</P>
027.sgm:<P>It was the warm season, and the gold and copper-seekers of that district were an excitable set at any time, with no wholesome restraint upon their actions in the shape of courts and legal enactments.  In an hour fifty men had assembled, and were engaged in sampling his liquor, and testing it as a Committee of the Whole, with a view of deciding whether it would kill or not.  It did not directly kill those who drank it then and there, without paying a cent for it, but it led to a fight, in which two honest miners were laid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>He next turned up at Wickenburg, on the Hassiyampi, in Central Arizona. Wickenburg was a lively place at that time.  Jack Snelling was acknowledged to be a capital fellow when perfectly sober, but inclined to be playful at times, and indulge in little praCtical jokes, which generally resulted in somebody being sent out of town feet foremost, and perforated like a colander.  It so happened that Jack was festivelyinclined on the day on which Bill arrived, and had been going around town compelling all the traders to close their shops and go home, on pain of instant death.  Jack was much respected in that community, and his will was law.  As Concatenation Bill rode down the single long, tortuous street which comprised the city at that time, Jack sighted him, and mistaking him for a man who had once insulted him by refusing to drink with him, went for him the moment he alighted, and thrashed him within an inch of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>In the course of his wanderings, he was seen at Hooper &amp; Co's store on the Gila, and for a time Was at home around Tucson.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Two or three years after his adventure at La Paz, Concatenation Bill came down Bill Williams' fork from Prescott, near Date Creek, and for some weeks Was one of the fixtures of the Great Central Mining Company's camp, at the copper mines near Aubray City, twelve miles above the mouth of the fork.  Nobody asked him to stop, and nobody seemed to care to invite him to leave; so he partook liberally of the hospitalities of the camp, never missing a meal nor paying a red, until it was whispered round among the miners that he was a heavy stockholder in the company, and it would be well to be on the good side of him.</P>
027.sgm:<P>It was in midsummer, and the heat was something terrible.  All day long the naked red mountains absorbed the heat of the burning sun, and all night long they gave it back to the inhabitants, as the baker's brick oven absorbs the heat of the burning wood fire, and gives it back to the loaves within it, when the coals and embers have been raked out.  Sleep, until far into the morning hours, Was an impossbility, indoors or out, and the miners were wont to spread <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:their blankets on the floor of the long veranda, at the <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Some years previous to this time, the Mojaves of the Colorado Valley, becoming tired of inglorious peace, and panting for war and its triumphs and renown, concluded to go on an expedition up the Gila, and clean out the Pimos and Maricopas, their old friends and allies against the Apaches.  The campaign opened auspiciously.  The first skirmish resulted in the rapid retreat of the Pimos, with the loss of four bucks and one squaw, toward their main village, farther up the valley.  But the second fight resulted differently, and the Mojaves retreated in confusion toward the Colorado, with the loss of half their force, and with their thirst for military glory whipped clean out of them.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Now it happened, almost as a matter of course since trouble was going on, that Concatenation Bill was in the vicinity when the fight took place--or, at least, had heard the particulars from some one who had been--and, as was his custom, had worked up the incidents and details into a wonderful romance, like unto that of the adventures of the Cid, of which you may be sure he was the central figure and hero, and he never tired of relating it, with endless variations, to any crowd who could be got to listen to the story. No one about the camp knew aught to the contrary; so, for want of contradiction, the story was accepted for its face, and became one of the acknowledged and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>One day, just as the sun was sinking down in the orange-hued western sky, and the sweating cook was ringing the welcome bell to call the toilers at the mine to supper, a game-looking young frontiersman, clad in buckskin garments, and a broad-brimmed vicu&ntilde;a hat, rode down the steep declivity of the red mountain, and made his way into camp.  He was tendered the hospitalities of the place, as were all strangers then, and turned in with the other "boys" on the veranda at night.  Stories came on in due course, and, at a hint dexterously thrown out by one of the party, Concatenation Bill started in with the true and affecting history of the "Great Indian Fight on the Gila."  And thus he began:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Well, you see, boys, the old chiefs of the Pimos and Maricopas were all out of practice, and when they found things had gone agin `em on the first fight, they looked about for a leader who knowed jest how to put up the pins for a victory.  Pretty soon they pitched on me, and I drawed up the plan for the next day's operations right away.  I stationed the braves at the right points, then laid for the Mojaves, and got `em.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>"They came up the river, yelling like so many devils, and drove our pickets in like chaff before `em; but when I got `em jest in the right spot, I give the word, and we riz on `em.  I never did feel much compunction at taking life before, leastwise the life of a damned redskin; but the fact is, that slaughter was dreadful, and it came to be a perfect butchery before we got through. I swear to man that the Gila riz over a foot; though mind, boys, I don't say it was all owin' to the blood which ran into it.  There was about two thousand dead Mojaves a floatin' down the stream, an' it's likely they lodged and choked it up at some pint where it was narrer like, an' so set the water back, more or less. Right in the thickest of the fight, when it seemed for a few minutes as if the Mojaves--who was game to the last; I'll say that in justice to `em was goin' to get the best of us, after all, I sailed in myself, and went for their big chief, and downed him with a blow from the butt of my revolver; an' I was jest cockin' my weapon to give him a settler, when old Ickthermiree, his second in command, an' about half a dozen leftenants, lighted on me all at onst, an' we clinched and went down all in a heap.  I got one arm loose, an' pulling out my old Arkansas toothpick, commenced slashin' `em right and left, when</P>
027.sgm:<P>Concatenation Bill never told us what happened after that.</P>
027.sgm:<P>When he commenced the story, the stranger, who was lying some feet away, listened attentively for a few moments, then rose slowly to a sitting posture, and then to his feet,  As the story progressed, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">You</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"Yes, <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The stranger bounded about four feet into the air, cracked his heels together with such force that the report sounded like that of a musket, swung his revolver round to the front, 50 as to have it ready for instant use, and as he came down yelled out:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Well, by the great horn spoon, stranger, that is singular!  There wasn't but one damned white man thar, or I hope to be dropped into hell this minute; AN' I'M THE MAN!"</P>
027.sgm:<P>The camp was as silent as death in an instant. Every man expected to hear the report of a revolver, or the sounds of a deadly hand-to-hand struggle, and waited in breathless anxiety for the crowning catastrophe.</P>
027.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">You</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"Yes, by the bloody jumping tom-cats of Jerusalem, ME!  Take a good look at me, stranger.  I kin jest eat any ten men that dar dispute it."</P>
027.sgm:<P>The silence grew deeper.  Concatenation Bill lay as motionless as a dead man for a moment, looking up at his opponent in the moonlight, silently weighing him and taking his measure; then apparently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Well, I reckon that lets me out!</P>
027.sgm:<P>A peal of laughter, wild and long, from all but two of the party, rang out upon the still air of the desert, and was answered on the instant by a loud yap-yap-yap-ya-hoo-oooo, from the startled wolves which were prowling around the camp by dozens.  The stranger stood there in silence and in doubt for a moment, then walked sulkily back to his blankets and lay down.  Again, and yet again, the loud laughter pealed forth upon the night, but not a word or sound of any kind came from the blankets where Bill was lying, to denote his consciousness of aught which was going on around him.  He had played that hand for all it was worth, and was fairly raised out at last.</P>
027.sgm:<P>When the summits of the distant Harcuvar Mountains were glistening with the rays of the rising sun, the miners of the fork were up and stirring, as was their wont.  The breakfast-bell sounded, and a rush was made for the dining-room.  A familiar face was missing, and for the first time in weeks there was a vacant place at the table.  Concatenation Bill was gone.  The camp which had known him so long was to know him no more forever.  In the grey dawn he had stealthily risen, folded his blankets, packed up his traps, saddled his hipshot mule, and as silently as a ghost departed, not deigning even to say good bye <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>A few days later, the writer and a party of frontiersmen friends paused beside a lowly grave on the road to Skull Valley, over which some wandering Mexicans had erected a cross of stones, in testimony of the supposed fact that there rested the remains of a <HI REND="italics">Christiano</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The party were about equally divided on the question of the probabilities; but it is a rule on the frontier never to miss an opportunity out of respect to a mere uncertainty; so from our pocket-flasks we reverently drank to the memory of the illustrious departed, the hero of the "the Great Indian Fight on the Gila; "then rode away into new scenes and dangers new, and thenceforth to all that reckless party, save the writer, poor Concatenation Bill was as dead, and almost as nearly forgotten, as <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The little birds that sang<LB>A hundred years ago."</HI>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII. A CRUISE ON THE BARBARY COAST.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>Night Scenes in San Francisco.--Low Life.--Scene in a Recently Suppressed Gambling House.--Visit to the Chinese Quarter.--How John Chinaman Loses His Money.--The Thieves and Rounders of San Francisco.--How they Live and where they Lodge.--The Dance-Cellars.--Opium Dens and Thieves' Ordinaries of the Barbary Coast.--How the San Francisco Police treat Old Offenders, etc., etc.</P>
027.sgm:<P>EVERY city on earth has its special sink of vice, crime and degradation, its running ulcer or moral cancer, which it would fain hide from the gaze of mankind.  London has its St. Giles, New York its Five Points, and each of the other Atlantic and Western Cities its peculiar plague spot and curse; it is even asserted that there are certain localities in Chicago where vice prevails to a greater extent, and life, virtue and property are less secure than in others. San Franciscans will not yield the palm of superiority to anything to be found elsewhere in the world.  Speak of the deeper depth, the lower hell, the maelstrom of vice and iniquity-from whence those who once fairly enter escape no more forever-and they will point triumphantly to the Barbary Coast, strewn from end to end with the wrecks of humanity, and challenge you to match it anywhere outside of the lake of fire and brimstone.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>Stroll by daylight through the region bounded by Montgomery, Stockton, Washington and Broadway streets, and you will have but a faint idea, a very Inadequate conception, of the real character of the locality.  A few red-faced, frowzy females will glance inquiringly at you from their seats just inside the doorways of the minor "dead-falls;" little dens, with the bar stocked with well-drugged liquors-which to taste is to look death in the face and defy him--on one side of the front room, a sofa on the other, and at the rear an arched opening hung with tawdry red and white curtains, communicating with an inner room, into the hidden mysteries of which you and I do not care to penetrate.  Spanish-American women, clad in solemn black, and wrapped to the eyes in their dark <HI REND="italics">rebozos</HI>
027.sgm:, fallen and hopelessly degraded, but still preserving something of the grace of manner and speech which distinguish the females of their race above all others, flit quietly past, fixing their flashing black eyes inquiringly upon your face, but making no salutation.  Chinese porters or "coolies," swinging heavy burdens on the ends of pliant bamboo poles balanced on their shoulders, and changed rapidly from side to side as they trot quickly along, meet you at every turn.  A couple of small, wiry, supple little fellows, with black skins, straight black hair, with little black eyes which twinkle like those of a snake, carrying huge baskets, filled with soiled clothing, on their heads, may attract your attention next; they are Lascar or Hindoo washermen from the <HI REND="italics">Laguna</HI>
027.sgm:, in the western part of the city, where they work.  You will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:see coming forth from the various narrow alleys which intersect the main streets, and are known by the expressive designations of "Murderer's Alley, "China Alley," "Stout's Alley," etc., any number of Chinese females, clad in their loose drawers or pants of blue or black cotton goods, straight-cut sacques of broadcloth, satin, or other costly or cheap material, according to their condition and social rank; shoes of blue satin, richly embroidered with bullion, and with thick soles of white felt and white wood, anklets or bangles, and bracelets of silver, gold, or jade-stone, and lustrous blue-black hair, braided in two strands, hanging down the back from beneath coarse-striped gingham handkerchiefs, thrown over the head, and tied beneath the chin as a badge denoting slavery, and a life of hopeless infamy; or, if the owner happens to be the wife of a laborer, tradesman or gambling-house proprietor, wonderfully gotten up with a species of transparent mucilage, and fashioned into a rudder-like structure sticking out fully a foot behind, supporting a number of skewer-like pins of gold or silver, each six or eight inches in length, and putting to shame by its size and cleanly appearance, the waterfalls of our Caucasian belles--shuffle along in groups of three or four, talking and laughing together like so many little children, or exchanging compliments, which would never bear translation into English, with the male blackguards, loafers and plug-uglies of their race.  These women are intellectually only children, and are more to be pitied and less condemned than the fallen of their sex of any other race.  Every second <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>It is Saturday evening, in the middle of the rainy season, when no work is doing upon the ranches, and work in the placer mines is necessarily suspended, and Me town fairly swarms with "honest miners" and unemployed farm-hands, who have come down from the mountains and "the cow counties" to spend their money, and waste their time and health in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:"doing" or "seeing life" in San Francisco.  The Barbary Coast is now alive with "jay-hawkers," "short-card sharps," "rounders," pickpockets, prostitutes and their assistants and victims; we cannot find a better night on which to pay a visit to the locality.  Half a dozen of us, more or less, make up the party, and we start out.  The evening is pleasant, and Montgomery and Kearny streets are filled with the beauty, fashion, and wealth of San Francisco. A military company, in brilliant uniform, with a full and very superior band, returning from a target excursion, pass up the street, attracting the attention of the throng for a moment; and then come, in turn, a party of horsemen and horsewomen, gaily mounted, coming in from the Cliff House at Point Lobos, or just starting out for a night-ride, who dash down the street at a gallop, are glanced at, criticised, and forgotten.  The drift of the crowd is toward the various places of amusement, and we go op with the tide. Turning up Washington street, we stop in front of what was, a few years since, the principal theatre, and looking into a saloon adjoining the main entrance, a scene which we witnessed there, less than three years ago, is recalled vividly to our recollection. There is a snug little saloon, and everything is as neat and orderly and business-like in appearance as possible.  At the rear of the room is a green door, on which hangs a card inscribed in large letters, "Club Room--Now Open."  Near the door sits a well dressed, gentlemanly man, who scrutinizes the face of each man as he passes through the saloon, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:seems to be connected in some mysterious manner with what is going on in the interior room.  Numbers of men, mostly young, and dressed like mechanics or small shop-keepers, clerks, etc., enter the saloon as we stand drinking at the bar, and pass quietly inside.  At length a man approaches the inner door, who is recognized by the man sitting in the chair as an objectionable or suspicious character, and the latter, with a quiet motion of the hand toward the outer door, says, "I don't think, sir, the man you are looking for is inside!" or, "This ain't the place for you, stranger; better walk the other way;" and we hear a noise inside as if a chain had been let down and something had been bolted, which is quite likely the case.  The bluffed individual departs without a word, satisfied that there is nothing to be made by parleying, and we advance toward the door-keeper--for such he really is--in turn.  He looks sharply at us, recognizes us by a quiet nod, and glances inquiringly toward the rest of the party.  "Only strangers from New York going the rounds; no shenanegan or cops in disguise; honor bright!" we reply.  "All right; go ahead!" and we enter the door, turn to the right, go down a flight of steps, through a narrow passage, and, following the gas-lights, reach and enter a third door; passing which we find ourselves in a wide, low hall, furnished with long tables covered with glazed cloth, lighted brilliantly with gas, and crowded with men who are gathering in groups around the different tables.  The air is close and hot, and the smell none of the most agreeable.  Perhaps two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:hundred men are in the room, but there is no hum of conversation, and even the smokers hardly place their cigars to their lips often enough to keep them lighted.  At the tables are seated dealers, dressed in long black robes, which completely hide every article of every-day clothing which they have on, with wire masks which conceal their features, though partially transparent, and slouched hats, which hide every trace of hair, making subsequent identification absolutely impossible.  This is done to prevent policemen--who will, in spite of every possible precaution, occasionally get in, disguised in such manner as to defy detection--from being able to identify the dealers and prosecute them.  The assistants of the dealers are dressed in the same manner, and the players never see the faces, recognize the clothing, or hear the natural voices of the men with whom they are, by a stretch of the imagination, supposed to be playing.  The silence is only broken by the chink of coin, and the monotonous voice of the dealer:  All set; all made; roll!  Black wins!  All set; all made; roll!  Red wins!"  At one table <HI REND="italics">Monte</HI>
027.sgm: is dealt, at another <HI REND="italics">Faro</HI>
027.sgm:, at another <HI REND="italics">Rouge-et-noir</HI>
027.sgm:, at another Diana, at another " <HI REND="italics">Chuck-a-luck</HI>
027.sgm:," at another " <HI REND="italics">Poker dice</HI>
027.sgm:," and so on.  You can be accommodated with almost any game you want, and it makes little difference in which you invest.  "You pays your money, and you takes your choice!"  You will notice that the players all appear to be of the classes before alluded to; there are none of the flashily-dressed clerks from the fancy dry-goods stores, no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:cashiers from large manufacturing, commercial, or banking houses, no stock-brokers and others, such as you may see in the more high-toned and fashionable hells of Montgomery, California, or Sacramento streets.  The players draw their money from their pockets with the air of men who earned it by the sweat of their brows, and are loth to part with it, but cannot withstand the temptation to indulge in the all-absorbing passion which consumes them.  Some of these men are taking their first lessons at the gaming table; others have been depositing four fifths of their earnings here regularly every week for years, and will do so for years to come.  The walls are hung around in places with cards, detailing the rules of the game, and everything looks and speaks "business." There are no luxurious chairs and sofas, no costly pictures, no soft carpets, and no sideboard loaded with substantials and delicacies, champagne, oysters, rich wines, and fiery liquors in glittering cut-glass and silver decanters and stands, with obsequious negro or Chinese servants, to press you to partake gratuitously of the good things spread before you, as in the high-toned hells.  The business of the place is naked gambling, and there is no effort to hide it or soften it with the "social amenities."  The players barely glanced at us as we entered, and the games go on. A man with the appearance of a mechanic, reaches over the monte table and chucks a pile of silver half-dollars down on a particular card.  The dealer draws the cards with a steady hand, the player wins, and the assistant, without a word, shoves toward him the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Times have changed sadly of late, as any old Californian will tell you.  The Police are around now every night, watching for all such "sinful games," and such scenes as we have just been depicting are no longer to be witnessed in San Francisco, though gambling in a different way is just as common as ever.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>And now, where? As we have seen how our Caucasian fellow-citizens, when unrestrained by the officers of the law, fool away their money at the gaming-table, suppose we go up to Dupont street and see how the Mongolians do that sort of thing.  We pass up Washington street a couple of blocks, leaving the City Hall, with the gloomy "calaboose" in its basement, and the bright little garden-plat of a plaza on our left, and turn to the right into Dupont street. We are close on the Barbary Coast.  A moment since we were exclusively among Caucasians, male and female, well dressed, and for the most part talking our language; we have gone hardly ten steps, and seem to be in another world.  The uncouth jargon of the Celestial Empire resounds on every side.  The stores are filled with strange-looking packages of goods from the Orient; over the doorways are great signs, with letters in gold or vermillion, cut into the brilliant blue or black groundwork, the purport whereof we know not.  Little `women in black or blue silk sacques and loose trousers, hair wonderfully gotten up, and slippers with soles an inch or. two in thickness, such as we saw running around by daylight, gaze at us with their almond-shaped black eyes, and nod knowingly at the policeman who has kindly volunteered to accompany us.  Men with long queues hanging down their backs to their very heels, and clad in the costume of a far-off land, crowd the sidewalks, and jostle each other and ourselves around the lottery-shops and the doors of their own gambling-houses  The air is redolent of a strange, dreamy odor, which you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:recognize as that of opium-and tobacco mingled, and if it be during the time of the Chinese New Year's holidays in February, there is an incessant roar, as of musketry, from the explosion of fire-crackers, which are thrown into the streets in packages and by the box, from every store, gambling-house, restaurant and dwelling, until the atmosphere is one blue cloud of powder-smoke, and the pavement is covered with the red husks of millions of the popping nuisances.  We notice numerous narrow doorways, with cloth signs, with huge Chinese characters over them. These are the entrances to the gambling-houses. At each sits a vigilant guardian, or doorkeeper, as silent as the Sphynx, with his hands tucked up into his sleeves, and his face as rigid and impassive as that of the great image of Josh in the Buddhist temple a few blocks away.  He speaks to no one unless accosted; and you would never dream what a thinking he keeps up, and how much he takes in with those little half-closed eyes of his.  Behind him we see an open door, a long narrow passage, and another door at the end. From the inner retreat comes strange, discordant--to our ears-and not over-attractive music, the air being almost always the same, and closely resembling <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The boat lies high, the boat lies low,<LB>She lies high and dry On the Ohio!"</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Chinamen are entering or coming out at every moment, and why should we not enter too.  We approach the door, and the wooden-looking doorkeeper suddenly starts up as wide-awake as you or I, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:stamps his foot on the floor., We see the door fly shut, as in a pantomime, no human agency being visible, hear a bar fall "chump" against it from behind, hear the rattling of a chain, and it is all up with us there.  We might kick at the thick door until we were tired, and expostulate with old Confucius there until morning, and it would avail us nothing.  He knows what he is there for, and we need not waste our precious time on him, "No shabbe!" is the only answer we can get to all our inquiries; and he does not even wink when we shake two four-bit pieces under his nose.  Better luck next time, perhaps!  We try again a few doors further down the street--same result.  It is evident that our friend the policeman is not looked upon' with favor by the sentinels at the gateways of the palaces of sudden wealth, and we suggest to him that he withdraw to the opposite side of the street, and still keep an eye on us.  Attempt No. 3.  We see a peculiarly pleasant-looking Chinaman, whose face is familiar to us, at one of the doorways, and approach him: "Good evening, John." "Good eening, gentlemen."  "Look here, John; these gentlemen come allee way from New York. No policeeman; wantee see you house; makee littee talkee; no more! You shabbee, John?" John, with bland, benevolent expression of countenance, which promises well, and raises our expectations to the highest pitch, bows gently, and thus delivers himself: "You likee see me; have littee talkee, eh?  Welly good!  Me likee see you, allee same.  You come to-morrow, four o'clock!"  Bang goes the door, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:down comes the bar, the chain rattles inside, and John, with a face wreathed in smiles, inwardly chuckling over his own astuteness, and the weakness of the outside barbarians who took him, an old Mongolian, for a greeny, bows almost to the floor, and says with condescending politeness, "Good eening, gentlemen; hope you hab bellee good sleep!"  "Why, blame the scoundrel; he has moved the previous question and us also, and that cuts off all debate!" exclaims one of our party.  And he looked so pleasant and accommodating.  "Come again to-morrow, four o'clock," indeed! There is a Celestial joke for you! We had better give up the attempt to see the inside of a Chinese gambling-house, and go farther down the Coast in search of amusement.  We retrace our steps, and go a little way up Washington street to an alley, perhaps fifteen feet in width, running through the block northwards to Jackson street. This is "China Alley," and is occupied solely by Chinese prostitutes.  The houses are all small brick affairs, coming flush up to the edge of the alley, and have windows with wickets in them, made by setting one pane of glass in a frame by itself, and hanging it on hinges.  There is a front and a rear room to each of these little dens; and, as we walk along, we can see all the arrangements of the outer rooms  Each of these places appear to be inhabited by from two to half a dozen Chinese girls, some of whom are dressed in hoops and long dresses "Melican" style, but for the most part are clad in the costume of their own country.  These poor creatures are all slaves, bought with a price in China, and imported <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:by degraded men of their own race, who, despite our laws, contrive to hold them to a life-long servitude, which is a thousand times more hopeless and terrible than the negro slavery of Louisiana or Cuba could ever be.  They have been reared to a life of shame from infancy, and have not a single trace of the native modesty of women left.  They are, as we have said, mere children in point of intellect, havIng no education whatever, and no experience of the world outside of the narrow alleys in which they have always lived, and the emigrant ship in which they were brought over to this country.  They have their likes and their dislikes, of course, and become attached to each other in a childish way, frequently being seen walking together on the streets, hand in hand, like little Caucasian sisters going home from school.  At very long intervals, some of these poor untutored children of the East become imbued with Western notions of liberty and right, and making their escape from the clutches of their masters, become joined in lawful marriage to some laborious washerman, or other countryman, and endeavor to settle down to an honest life; but their chances of escaping kidnapping, and being dragged away to some distant locality, beaten, and reduced again to prostitution and slavery, are very slim indeed.  The owner in such cases has always a personal grudge, as well as a pecuniary loss, to urge him on to vindictive measures; and he will willingly spend ten times the value of his escaping chattel to get her back again, and have his revenge. Besides, the safety of this peculiar institution demands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>We walk through the alley, and we emerge upon Jackson street, stumble upon Ah Ting, a Sacramento street merchant, as shrewd and smart as any down-east Yankee, who is walking with the swell Chinese doctor, Li-Po-Tai, who created such an excitement in San Francisco on his arrival, a few years since; and, laying all nonsense aside, really does perform some almost miraculous cures. Ah Ting is our friend; he will get us into a Chinese gambling-house at once. He sends off the policeman, as one too many in the party, and walking across the street, approaches the guardian of one of the temples of finance, confidentially says a few words to him, and in we go.  The room is bare and plain; nothing attractive in its decorations, and the air is blue with the smoke of opium and flavored tobacco, from the little cigarritos between the lips of nearly every man in the room.  There are, perhaps, fifty Chinamen, of the lower class, crowded around a long table, behind which sits the banker, a benevolent-looking old fellow in huge spectacles, satin blouse and skull-cap.  In one corner of the room is the band, consisting of a woman, richly dressed, and painted, with a hair-rudder standing out from behind her head in startling proportions, playing on a three-stringed guitar, a pock-marked scoundrel of the male sex playing on a. two-stringed fiddle, which he holds between his feet, and another who beats the infernal tom-tom with sticks, making discord of what might otherwise be considered an apology for music. From time to time the woman breaks forth in a wild, plaintive air, in a voice not bad in itself, but pitched at a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:key as high as the ordinary whistle of a steam-engine. This, Ah Ting tells us, is "the Song of the Jasmine Flower," and we agree with one of the party, who suggests that the aforesaid jasmine flower must have grown on a hill-side, in hard stony soil, exposed to high winds, and had a hard time of it generally.  The game which is being dealt is "Than," or "Tan," a kind of "odd and even" affair; we came to the conclusion that it would be odd indeed if anybody ever got even by playing at it.  It looks all fair enough to an outsider.  The dealer has on the table before him a pile of "copper cash," or Chinese bronze coin, each about the diameter of our old-fashioned copper cents, now out of use, but only about one fourth as heavy, and with a square hole in the centre.  These coins are of the value of the thousandth part of a Mexican dollar, or a tenth part of one cent; and in trade in China are used mostly strung on strings of a hundred or a thousand each, for convenience in handling and to save counting. Picking up a handful of these coins, apparently at random, before the eyes of the players, he puts them down on the table and covers them instantly with a common Chinaware bowl inverted. The players then make their bets on the number coming out odd or even, and also on guessing the exact number, the bank always taking the chances against the betters on either side.  He then raises the bowl, and with a wire, about fourteen inches in length, crooked at the end, pulls the coins rapidly into little parties of four each, so that anybody can count them almost at a glance.  If you bet on odd, and an odd number is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:found to have been under the bowl, you win; if you hazard a guess at the actual number and hit it--about as much chance of your doing so as of your being hit by lightning in San Francisco--you win; or, if you bet that the last little pile drawn out will contain four, three, two, or only one coin, and hit it, you win.  It all appears as fair as the day, and yet you cannot but notice that the bank gets rich and the players poor, by regular degrees, all the time.  Of course there must be a percentage in favor of the bank somewhere, but you cannot see where it is if you watch the game all night. The lower classes of the Chinese are inveterate gamesters, and must all know that there is such a percentage, which must ruin the player in the long run; but, like gamblers of other nations, they keep at it as long as they have a cent, and return to it the moment they have made another raise of a dollar or two. We have been admitted as a special favor, and of course must `patronize the house," so we select a Chinaman who speaks a little English, and ask him to act as an agent in the transaction.  He is only too willing to accommodate us.  A half-dollar is staked on "odd" and we lose; another on "even," and we lose again; then one on the exact number, and our agent turns to us and explains, with many shrugs, bows and apologies, that he regrets very much that we did not win that time, as, had we done so, we should have doubled our money as many times as there were pieces in the pile.  We regret as much as he does that our luck did not run that way, and tell him so with as many bows, shrugs and apologies in return.  "Well, hopee you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Our policeman rejoins us, and we go on down to Pacific street, the roughest and least pacific of the streets on the Barbary Coast.  The whole street, for half a dozen blocks, is literally swarming with the scum of creation.  Every land under the sun has contributed toward making up the crowd of loafers, thieves, low gamblers, jay-hawkers, dirty, filthy, degraded, hopeless bummers, and the unsophisticated greenhorns from the mines, or from the Eastern States, who, drawn here by curiosity, or lured on by specious falsehoods told them by pretended friends met on the ocean or river steamers, are looked upon as the legitimate prey of all the rest.  The number of prematurely-old young men, mere boys in years, but centenarians in vice and crime; sallow, wrinkled, pimpled, dirty, stoop-shouldered, disgusting in language and action, who drift up and down the Coast as we stand looking on, astonishes you.  They seem to make up the bulk of the passers on the sidewalks. You never see this class of fellows even in this locality by day; they seem to shun the light of the sun, and only crawl <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:forth at night to feast on unclean things, and fatten on rottenness and corruption.  Some of them have parents in California, doubtless, but the great majority have left homes in some far-off land, where they are often spoken of with pride by confiding mothers, sisters and brothers, who know nothing of their actual status in society here--well for them that they do not.  "I have a son in California.  I have not heard from him in several years, but he was doing well when he wrote last," says a fond mother in the Atlantic States.  Well for you, oh mother, that you cannot stand with us this evening, and see him floating with the tide, a hopeless wreck, along the slime-covered shores of the Barbary Coast!  From the "deadfalls," as the low beer and dance cellars are designated, which line both sides of the street, and abound on all the streets in this vicinity, come echoes of drunken laughter, curses, ribaldry, and music from every conceivable instrument.  Hand-organs, flutes, pianos, bagpipes, banjos, guitars, violins, brass instruments and accordeons mingle their notes and help to swell the discord.  "Dixie" is being drummed out of a piano in one cellar; in the next they are singing "John Brown;" and in the next, "Clare's Dragoons," or "Wearing of the Green." Women dressed in flaunting colors stand at the doors of many of these "deadfalls," and you frequently notice some of them saluting an acquaintance, perhaps of an hour's standing, and urging him to "come back and take just one more drink."  Ten to one the already half-drunken fool complies, and finds himself in the calaboose next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>ROBBED ON THE BARBARY COAST.--John Smith, a miner from Mud Springs, El Dorado County, came down on the Sacramento boat last evening, and put up at the What Cheer House.  On his way to the hotel, he made the acquaintance of a man who claimed to know a friend of his who had worked with him at mining in 1858, on the south fork of the Yuba.  The two started out in search of this mythical friend, and visited numerous deadfalls without finding him.  They drank at each place they visited, however, and about one o'clock this morning Smith reached the calaboose in a half-stupified condition, and charged a girl known as "Pigeon-toed-Sal," whose headquarters are in a deadfall near the comer of Kearny and Pacific streets, and her male confederate, with robbing him of $800, her companion holding him down while she searched his pockets, and took the money from them. Officers Smith and Brown arrested Sal and her confederate, the "Billy Goat," and locked them up on the charge of grand larceny, but it is doubtful if the charge can be sustained, as the money was not recovered, and the friends of the accused will fee a lawyer with the money, and hire the witnesses for twenty-five per cent. to leave the State, or swear that Smith had agreed to marry the girl, and gave her the money <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>A few such items will enlighten you on the question of how the proprietors of so many of these well-named "deadfalls" manage to make a living.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Three men come up the street as we stand on the sidewalk looking and listening, and two of them eye our friend the policeman uneasily as they pass. These two are unmistakably of the Algerine pirate class, and the third evidently a middle-aged greenhorn from the mining country.  The officer comprehends the situation at a glance, and stepping forward, says emphatically, "Look here, Jack; I told you once before to get out of the jayhawking business, and not let me catch you on the Coast again.  And you, Cockeye; when did you come back from over the Bay?  I'll bag you both, as sure as I'm a living man, if I catch either of you on my beat again.  You can go this time, but cuss me if it ain't your last chance.  Toddle, blast you, and don't let me see you again!"  The young fellows slink away without a word, like renegade curs caught in the act of killing sheep, and the officer addresses himself to their intended victim. "Look here, old fellow; those fellows picked you up at the wharf, or around the What Cheer, and pretended they used to know you at home.  They are two State Prison thieves, and would have robbed you before daylight, sure.  Now, you go back to your hotel, put your money in the safe, and go to bed, or I'll lock you up for a drunk; do you hear?"  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Do you want to see what they arc doing in these places?" says the officer. "Come in here with me." We enter what appears to be an ordinary "corner grocery," with piles of potatoes, onions, soap, candIes, and other ordinary goods, in boxes and bags, stacked up in front.  Everything looks quiet and respectable, but the German or French proprietor of the place glances anxiously at our escort, who pushes open a green Venetian blind, which serves as a door at what appears to be the back of the room, and motions for us to enter.  Here, in an inner room, for which the grocery in the front is but a screen in reality, we find some twenty rascally-looking negroes from Panama, the West Indies, Peru and Guiana, sitting round dirty tables, playing draw-poker and other swindling games, with greasy, fairly stinking cards, for money which we know they never honestly earned. "Hulloa, that is you, is it? You are a healthy crowd, <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
027.sgm:<P>We next enter a similarly appearing establishment, in which there are a billiard-table in the back room, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:and a promiscuous crowd of Chile&ntilde;os, Peruvians, and other Spanish-American cut-throats, playing "pool," with any amount of small change changing hands at every game.  "That sharp-nosed fellow with the billiard-cue in his hand murdered a peddler at New Almaden a few years since, but his woman swore him clear.  That hook-nosed villain smoking there in the comer, is a horse-thief from San Jos&eacute;; he has been over the Bay <HI REND="italics">(i.e</HI>
027.sgm:., in State Prison, or San Quentin, across the Bay from San Francisco) three times, and will go again soon, I reckon.  That little fellow there with the scar on his face is a <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
027.sgm:<P>We next enter a low room on the ground floor of a rickety, old frame-building, which has stood here since 1849, and passing the screen which shuts off the view from the street, find a bar stocked with every species of liquid poison, at "5 cents a glass." A rough-looking Irishman is behind the bar; two miserable, bloated, loathsome-looking, drunken white females are quarrelling with each other in front; on the settee ranged along the wall sits a third wreck of female humanity, swearing like a pirate, and cursing "the perlice" at every breath; while a man with a face like a diseased beePs liver, who once represented a Western State in Congress, is patting her on the back caressingly, and endeavoring vainly to quiet her, lest the police outside should hear her and make a raid on the establishment.  In one corner, a party of Kanaka <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Guided by the music of violins, guitars and a piano, and the tramping of many feet, we descend a narrow staIrway, and find ourselves in one of the most notorious dance-cellars of San Francisco.  There is a low bar at one side of the room, near the entrance, and at the farther end a raised platform for the musicians. About forty young women and girls, ranging down to ten or twelve years of age, dressed in gaudy, flaunting costumes, and with eyes lighted up with the baleful glare of dissipation, are on the floor, dancing with as many men, of all ages: rowdies, loafers, pimps, thieves, and their greenhorn victims; while perhaps fifty men of the same stamp stand looking on and applauding the performers.  The room is blue with tobacco-smoke, and reeking with the fumes of the vilest of whisky.  Half a dozen men, or overgrown boys, are sitting or lying on the floor in various stages of inebriety, but they are unnoticed by the other occupants of the place.  Every time a man takes a partner for the dance he pays fifty cents, half of which goes to the establishment and half to the girl, and at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Do you want to see where these people lodge? Come along with me," says our official friend.  We notice many large lamps with "Lodgings 25, 50 and 75 cents per night," painted thereon, are hanging at the doors of dirty, dilapidated-looking buildings. We enter one of these places without ceremony.  A wrinkled old hag sits in an outer band-box of an office, to receive the pay in advance from the customers of the establishment.  "Who have you got in here to-night," demands the man of the star. "Well, we ain't began to fill up much yet; but there's Tom Reynolds, an' Constable Bob, an' Bluey, an' Callahan, and a few others.  I hope you don't want any on `em now, do ye?" replies the hag.  Relieved by the assurance that the visit is only one of curiosity; not on behalf of the law, the old creature, with a chuckle of satisfaction, leads the way with the lamp, and we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:go through the premises.  The rooms where the lodgers at 25 cents a night are stowed away are fitted with bunks, like the forecastle of a vessel, and each lodger has a narrow straw mattress, a pair of blankets--perhaps dirty sheets as well--and a pulu pillow. The dozen bunking thus in one room have not money or valuables enough, all put together, to pay any one of the number for the trouble of going through the pockets of the rest, and they can rest in peace until evening comes again, when they emerge on the streets once more, to resume their pursuit of plunder. When one of these fellows makes a raise by "rolling a drunk" <HI REND="italics">(i.e</HI>
027.sgm:., taking the valuables from the pockets of a drunken man on the sidewalk), "cracking a crib," or "jayhawking a Webfoot" (robbing a green Oregonian), he will take a single bed at 37 1/2 cents in the next room, which is a little better furnished, and has two or three bedsteads in place of the bunks; and, should his luck be extraordinarily good, and a fat pigeon. fall in his way and get plucked, he will probably go one degree further, and invest 50 cents in a room with one double-bed, and invite one of the frail females from the dance-cellar near at hand, or some one of the numerous deadfalls in the vicinity, to share his wealth with him.  But for 50 cents a night a man could get a good bed at a second or third class lodging-house in a decent locality.  Yes, but you forget that the patrons of such establishments as we are now in are all known to the police, and could not get admitted anywhere else, except in disguise, and then only for a short time, if they had any amount of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Bidding the old hag good morning, we next visIt a huge three or four story building, with a large area in the centre, and galleries all around the inside, cut up into almost innumerable little rooms, which are let, furnished, at so much per month, to the "pretty beer-slingers" and their male companions.  Every girl attending in the beer-cellars has a male friend--sometimes l,er husband, but not often--who fights her battles, robs her of her earnings, and not unfrequently plunders, by collusion with her, the inebriated greenhorns whom she entices into her den after the dead-fall has closed for the night.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Bang! bang! bang!  What was that?  We hear the sharp whistle of a policeman and several answering whistles, and run out to the street to see what is going on.  The story is soon told.  An officer has met three well-known thieves skulking through an alley with something in bags on their backs.  On general principles, he orders them to halt, and is answered with a staggering blow with a slungshot by one of them. To draw his revolver and let fly at each in succession is the work of an instant.  One of the desperadoes is shot through the heart and falls dead in his tracks; one is lying on the ground with his right thigh-bone shivered by the bullet, so that it will require amputation; and the third, barely hit in the side, has thrown up his hands, and stands waiting for the irons to be put on him.  The police clear the field of action in a few minutes, and on searching the bags find <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The excitement being over, the officer conducts us through a narrow alley swarming with Chinese prostitutes, and reeking with a thousand separate stinks, each more abominable than the other, to see what he designates as a "Chinese Hoo-doo House."  In a back room, hidden entirely from the gaze of passers in the alley, we find a crowd of the lowest class of Chinese, who are enjoying themselves in various ways.  There is an altar at one end of the room, with a Joss, in gorgeous vermilion and blue, sitting erect at the back.  His face bears the same expression of conscious power, rest, and complete self-satisfaction which is seen on that of his more aristocratic brother in the Buddhist temples on Dupont and Pine streets, and he holds the fingers of his uplifted hand in the same mysteriously significant position.  But instead of rich satin garments and costly hangings of crimson silk and wonderful gilt filagree work, he is clad in tawdry cotton-stuffs and surrounded by hangings of trifling value.  The altar-ornaments are porcelain instead of bronze metal, and the meat-offerings before him are not such as would tempt the appetite of a well-regulated and healthy immortal, while the incense which is burning under his nose is redolent of tobacco and garlic rather than of sandal-wood and the costly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:perfumes lavished on the altars of the high-class temples.  In an alcove on one side of the room is a raised couch, spread with matting, and provided with braided split-cane pillows, for the accommodation of the opium smokers, two of whom are now stretched out at full length thereon, gazing into vacancy with fixed, staring eyes, unconscious of all that is passing around them, and wrapped in the wild hallucinations called into existence by the fumes of the deadly drug, which is sooner or later to utterly prostrate them, bodily and mentally, and send them, after awful sufferings, to fill untimely graves.  Did not Christian England wage a savage war upon Heathen China, that the opium trade should not be broken up? Why then talk of abolishing it, now that it has become the curse which is destroying the whole Mongolian race? We are not missionaries, and did not come here to preach. Round a table, a party of coolies are engaged in gambling, for "copper cash," with dominoes; playing the game very rapidly, and with consummate skill, though in a different manner from that known by the name with us.  On another table we see a strange collection of nondescript effigies, made of highly-colored paper and slips of pliant cane.  One resembles in outline a goat, but has the head of an alligator, and the figure astride its back is that of a man with a cock's head on his shoulders.  The next figure has the body of a lion, a horse's head, and a fish's tail, and is ridden by a man with the head of an ox, and a sword in his hand, A Chinaman, who appears to understand English, volunteers to explain these mysteries to us.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>One more sight before we leave the neighborhood. The officer leads us a few doors farther down the alley, and enters a low door into a room, dimly lighted by a China nut-oil lamp.  Stretched on the floor of this damp, foul-smelling den, are four female figures. These miserable wretches are the victims of the most fearful and loathsome disease with which the vengeance of God has cursed sinful humanity, and having been pronounced incurable by the Chinese doctors, and refused admission, under our laws, to the alms house and public hospital, are here dying, by inches, a slow, lingering, horrible death.  One of them, at our request, lifts from her face a cloth which hid it, and in place of mouth, lips, cheeks and nose, we see a horrible cavity, formed by the eating away of the flesh until the bare bones are exposed, as in the grinning effigy of a death's head on some ancient tower.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>One more sensation is yet in store for us.  As we emerge on Jackson street once more, we are met by an officer, who tells us that another of those horrible, mysterious murders of fallen women, which have horrified the community over and over again, and baffled and set at defiance the detective powers of the city officials, has been perpetrated in Stout's Alley.  He leads up into the alley, and along it to within a few yards of Washington street, and an officer at the door, who is keeping back the curious crowd.of men and women which was gathered on hearing the news, admits us to the house where the tragedy has been enacted.  There are two rooms on the main floor, which had been occupied by the French woman, now dead.  In the front one is a bed luxuriously furnished, a bureau, wardrobe, table, etc., and in the back room a wash-stand, stove, and some cooking utensils and crockery.  Her male friend slept up stairs, and knew nothing of the tragedy going on below.  The police are busily at work searching for clues, to lead to the detection of the murderer, but all in vain.  On the floor in the front room, the body of the miserable victim is lying in a pool of blood, the skull fractured by a blow with a chair, which lies shivered by her side, and the throat cut from ear to ear with a dull knife, taken from the other room by the murderer. The bed is drenched with blood, and a pillow, thrown against the wall at the other side of the room, is saturated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII. FROM THE ORIENT DIRECT.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>Arrival of a China Steamer at San Francisco.--Her Passengers and Cargo.--A Horseback Trip to Mount Diablo.--Ascending the Mountain.--The Magnificent view from the Summit.</P>
027.sgm:<P>WELL, what next?  We have done the Mission Dolores and its quaint old red tile-roofed, adobe walled, and curiously ornamented altar, standing amid the graves of the pious fathers, whose faith led them here and helped them to rear this structure on the far confines of heathendom, generations ago.  We have galloped over the broad macadamized road--out past Lone Mountain, with its City of the Dead gathered around the tall, white shaft which marks the resting-place of the gallant Broderick, and Mount Calvary, with another City of the Dead gathering around the white cross gleaming from its summit--to Point Lobos, where we have seen the ships from Europe, Asia, Australia, the Atlantic ports, and the islands of the Pacific, come sailing in through the Golden Gate.  From the balcony of the Cliff House, overhanging the roaring breakers, we have looked down for hours with never-flagging interest, upon those strange monster survivors of the World Before the Flood, the sea-lions, as they crawled from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>There is a small white flag, inscribed with the letters U. S. M., flying from each of the San Francisco street cars as it passes; a mail steamer from some part of the world has entered the Golden Gate.  From the direction of North Beach, a messenger of the Merchants' Exchange comes galloping at full speed along Stockton street, his half wild Spanish horse--with head erect, nostrils distended, and lustrous eyes (the glory alike of Spanish steeds and women) that flash like coals of fire--bounding over the rough pavement as proudly as if conscious that he bore the fate of Ceasar and his empire.  "What is it?" we call out as the messenger flies past us.  "The Great Republic, from China and Japan," is the answer he gives, without even turning his head to see who asked; and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Looking down from Rincon Hill, we see the long shed-covered wharf of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company stretching far out into Mission Bay to the southward, huge steamers lying in the docks, or at anchor in the stream, a stone's throw off, and in front, outside the high, closed gates, a vast crowd of Europeans, Americans, and Asiatics commingled, and a jam of vehicles of every description, gathered in anticipation of the steamer's arrival at her wharf.  Descending the hill and making our way slowly through the crowd, we reach the gates at last; and approaching the group of police-officers on duty, offer the card inscribed, " <HI REND="italics">Admit the Bearer on Great Republic</HI>
027.sgm:," which was received at the company's office on Sacramento street, as a special courtesy from the great corporation.  The officer has already recognized our companion as a member of the San Francisco "press-gang," and passes us through the side door with a quiet nod, not even condescending to look at our ticket.  Passing down the long wharf, between the great steamers lying on either hand, we find in waiting a few vehicles--hacks sent to bring away some particular persons known to be on board, the United States mail and express wagons--some gentlemen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The "Great Republic," flying the flag of our country, that of the P. M. S. S. Co., and the yellow dragon of China, has meantime rounded Rincon Point, and is lying in the stream, off the southern end of the wharf, with hawsers out, vainly endeavoring, against the strong ebb tide, to warp into her berth on the western side.  The bow hawser parts at last, and she drifts out towards Yerba Buena Island, then swings slowly round under steam, heads towards San Jose, and then, when about half a mile away, turns gracefully, and, with her monster wheels beating the bay into a foam, comes rushing at full speed directly down toward the wharf.  The picket gates which separate the southern end of the shed from the section of open wharf beyond, are opened in an instant by the officers, and the people rush at their utmost speed down towards the northern gateway, apprehensive lest the leviathan, now approaching with the fleetness of a racehorse, should miss the point aimed at by a few feet, knock the pine-timber built wharf into kindling-wood, and send those upon it into Davy Jones' locker in an instant.  Needless alarm!  The monster of the deep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The forward gangway is reserved for the disembarkation of Chinamen exclusively; the after gangway is for the cabin passengers, mostly Americans and Europeans.  Several Chinese merchants, neatly-dressed and quiet, gentlemanly-behaved men, attempt to go on board by the after gang-plank, and are hurled back with, it would seem, needless violence by the officers stationed there.  The sub-agents and employ&eacute;s of the Six Companies, who attempt to reach the main-deck by the forward gangway, are repulsed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:with even greater rudeness and force: the orders are that none shall be allowed to go on board until the custom-house officers have done their work.  Half a dozen United States Navy officers, from the squadron in Chinese and Japanese waters, coming  home on leave of absence, come down the after-gangway, and are told to get their luggage all together in one place on the wharf, and it will be passed immediately by the officers.  Their lacquered boxes, trunks, open-work, rattan chairs and lounges for reclining upon in a tropipical climate, boxes of rare plants, and small collections of "curios" from the far East-West it seems to us-are soon run through, and chalked with the names of the examining officers, and they enter carriages in waiting, and are driven away to the hotels. A stout-built, manly-looking American, forty years of age or thereabouts, comes down the plank, and a fair-faced woman, who, with her four half-grown-up children around her, has been standing patiently for hours in a corner of the building on the wharf, grows suddenly pale in the face, runs towards him, and with the single exclamation, "O Joe!" has her arms around his neck in an instant.  A few ladies and gentlemen, looking curiously about them, issue from the cabin, point out their luggage on the wharf, receive the proper directions, and, entering carriages admitted through the gates one at a time to receive them, are hurried away, apparently half glad at finding themselves standing on the solid land once more, half-sorry to part from those with whom they have voyaged across the broad Pacific, and dared the perils of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:the sea  And now from the cabin emerges a tiny creature, clad in costly robes of satin, richly embroidered, and stands at the upper end of the plank in the gangway opening, as if in doubt which way to turn or how to proceed.  She is not more than four feet in height--slender and graceful of figure.  Her lustrous blue-black hair is puffed out at the sides and fashioned into a wonderful rudder-shaped structure behind, supported with gold and silver skewer-like ornaments thrust through it; and her head, guiltless of hat or bonnet, is surmounted by a small wreath of bright-colored artificial flowers.  Her face is really pretty--the features being delicately formed--despite the obliquity of the almond-shaped eyes, and the slight projection of the anything but Grecian nose.  Her complexion, naturally whiter than that of the common working people of her country, has been so cunningly improved by her maid-servant-who could teach our enamellers and beautifiers the first rudiments of their profession--that she is as' fair to look upon as the blonde beauties of our race, and you would hesitate long before you would swear whether the red which tinges her cheeks and lips is real or the work of "high art" in its-perfection.  Her tunic or sacque is of sky-blue satin, embroidered with flowers in bright-colored silk; her wide, loose trousers of darker blue satin, similarly but more elaborately embroidered; and her dainty little feet are encased in slippers of blue satin, with gold-bullion embroidery and thick white felt soles, with thin bottoms of polished wood.  In her hand she holds two fans, with which she endeavors <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:to keep her face hidden as far as possible from the public gaze.  Timid to the last degree she seems, and probably is, and she looks neither to the right nor the left, but keeps her eyes fixed on the plank beneath her, as if anxious to avoid the sight of every-thing else in the world.  As she stands there in the open gangway, she looks the perfect counterpart of something we have seen, or dreamed of, before. Ah, yes; we remember now!  Thirty years ago-fifteen or Sixteen years before this little thing was born-our big cousin came home from a sailing voyage round the world, and among the curious things he brought with him was a book of rice-paper, white as snow and soft as velvet, each leaf of which bore a single, wonderfully elaborate little picture, in colors more brilliant than the rainbow; her picture, correct and perfect in the most minute detail, was there; no one could fail to recognize it at a glance. She is the bride of an opulent Chinese merchant of San Francisco, who has been home to get her; his parents selected her for him from one of the most respectable families in the Central Flowery Empire, and he had no trouble with courting and such like Caucasian nonsense.  He leads her down the plank, the bracelets and bangles of silver and green semi-transparent stone which encircle her wrists and ankles, clinking musically as she walks; and at the wharf a policeman, detailed for the purpose, receives and escorts the party through the crowd, which opens respectfully before the end of his club, and they enter a carriage.  Another and another come down the plank; the last two are accompanied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Following the Chinese ladies comes an Englishman returning from the Indies, a broad, burly fellow, with dogged resolution, self-complacency, and a stout, unconquerable determination to grumble at everything he meets in "this blarsted country, you know," traced upon every lineament.  His feet are encased in clumsy thick-soled gaiters, his nether limbs in gray, very scant cassimere pantaloons, which hang limp as withered cabbage leaves round his ankles; a coat, broader than it is long, covers his shoulders, and reaches down just below his waist, and on his head is a hideous Monitor-shaped hat, as large as the shell of a green turtle, and as unmanageable and badly out of place <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The custom-house officers have done their work here quickly, and perhaps effectually, and now all is ready at the forward gangway.  A living stream of the blue-coated men of Asia, bearing long bamboo poles across their shoulders, from which depend packages of bedding, matting, clothing, and things of which we know neither the names nor the uses, pours down the plank the moment that the word is given, "All ready!"  They appear to be of an average age of twenty-five years--very few being under fifteen, and none apparently over forty years--and though somewhat less in stature than Caucasians, healthy, active, and able-bodied to a man.  As they come down upon the wharf, they separate into messes or gangs of ten, twenty, or thirty each, and, being recognized through some (to us) incomprehensible freemasonry system of signs by the agents of the "Six Companies" as they come, are assigned places on the long, broad-shedded wharf which has been cleared especially for their accommodation and the convenience of the customs officers.  Each man carries on his shoulders, or in his hands, his entire earthly possessions, and few are overloaded.  There are no merchants or business men among them, all being of the coolie or laboring class.  They are all dressed in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:coarse but clean and new blue cotton blouses and loose baggy breeches, blue cotton-cloth stockings which reach to the knee, and slippers or shoes with heavy wooden soles; these last they will discard for American boots when they go up country to work in the dust and mud; and most of them carry one or two broad-brimmed hats of split bamboo, and huge palm-leaf fans, to shield them from the burning sun in the mountains or valleys of California, or the fertile fields of the south, towards which many of them will eventually direct their steps.  There is a babel of uncouth cries and harsh discordant yells, accompanied by whimsically energetic gestures and convulsive facial distortions, as the members of the different gangs recognize each other in the crowd, and search out the places assigned them.  The luggage is deposited on the wharf, and each group squat on the planking, or stand silently beside their little property, waiting in patience and perfectly soldier-like order the arrival of the officers who are to search them for smuggled goods.  "Here, this way!"  "Here, here on this side!"  "There, over there on that side!" shout the policemen, as they swing their clubs about and frantically endeavor to direct the tide, often really creating disorder among these most orderly and methodical people, who would get things straightened twice as quickly without such assistance.  For two mortal hours the blue stream pours down from the steamer upon the wharf; a regiment has landed already, and still they come. The wharf is covered with them so densely that the passage-way for carriages <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The writer shares none of the prejudice against this people which is manifested so strongly by the lower order of the European-born residents of California, and leads to so many disgraceful acts of violence and outrage; but such a sight as this awakens curious thoughts, and suggests doubts of the future in the mind of every one who has made political economy and free institutions a study to any extent. The Chinese-labor question is destined within the next ten years--five years, perhaps--to become what the slavery question was a few years since, to break down, revolutionize, and reorganize parties, completely change the industrial system of many of our States and Territories, and modify the destiny of our country for generations to come.  Educated, thinking men do not, as a rule, fear the result, nor see in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The customs agents search the person of every Chinaman as he lands, and go through the luggage of every group or mess as thoroughly as possible, in quest of opium, the one blighting curse of China, for which she may thank Christian England, and for which her children will run any risk and bear any privation.  The deadly drug is so costly in proportion to its bulk, that, next to gold and precious stones, it offers the greatest inducement for smuggling; and on the arrival of every steamer and sailing vessel from China, large seizures are made by the officers. On this occasion one officer detected and confiscated forty boxes of opium, each worth eight or ten dollars in coin, which had been concealed in the false bottom of a box containing merchandise of comparatively small value.  To do them justice, we should say that one of the Chinese companies' agents directed the officer's attention to the box, and so caused him to make the discovery.  Another officer discovered a suspicious protuberance on the person of a Chinaman, and had just reached out his hand to examine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Fifteen or twenty Chinese girls--the poor raft and boat born women of Canton, trained, from childhood, to lewdness, and as utterly ignorant of the ways of virtue or any sense of shame or moral responsibility as so many blocks of wood-were landed also; some steamers bring them by hundreds, in spite of the efforts of the "Six Companies" to discourage the traffic. These women signed contracts, in China, to serve their masters a given number of years for their passage-money, board and clothing, and, despite our laws, will submit to live and die in a slavery more horrible than any other that ever existed on earth; all efforts of our authorities to break it up having proved utterly unavailing.  As they land, they are searched in no delicate manner by the officers, and then received by their purchasers, and delivered into the charge of the sallow old hags in black costume, with bunches of keys in the girdles at their waists, who are called "old mothers," and who will hold them in horrible bondage and collect the wages of their sin--if they who have no moral responsibility can be said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>This cargo is made up of articles in a great measure strange to the people of the Atlantic States; and for their benefit the list is copied out in full from the manifest, as follows:</P>
027.sgm:<P>For San Francisco: 90 packages cassia; 940 packages coffee, from Java and Manila; 192 packages fire-crackers  30 packages dried fish, cuttle-fish, shark's fins, etc.; 400 packages hemp; 116 packages <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>For New York; 2 packages merchandise; 21 packages sundries; 150 packages silks; 465 packages teas; 144 packages rhubarb; 9 packages hardware.</P>
027.sgm:<P>For Panama, 1 package opium; 1 package sundries; 115 packages tea.</P>
027.sgm:<P>It is not the tea season, and this cargo is consequently a small one comparatively--nothing, in fact, to what is sometimes landed from a China steamer; though, as will be seen from the foregoing manifest, it comprises no less than 13,354 packages of merchandise, many of them of large size-a small mountain in the aggregate.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Having enjoyed to the utmost the pleasure of a new sensation, we leave the wharf, meditating on the strange scene which we have beheld, and wondering what is to be the end of all this, and wend our way back to Montgomery street.  Sitting by the fruit-laden table in our own room in the evening, and breathing the air charged with the odors of the fairest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:flowers that bloom, a doubt arises in our mind, and eve begin to inquire if there was in sober truth any such scene as we fancy we have been witnessing. Was that little oval-faced woman, clad in blue, purple, crimson and gold, shrinking in speechless fear from the strange throng around her, a being of flesh and blood after all, or a creature of the imagination? Did we actually see her come out of the great black steamer's cabin and stand there hesitating in the gangway, or have we been gazing at some brilliantly-tinted picture from the land where Marco Polo journeyed centuries ago, until one of the figures took on itself the semblance of life and action, and walked forth from its frame?  Was it not in fact a"l a dream? A dream, we would almost swear!  And yet a dream it could not have been, we find when we come to reflect upon it.  There is the card of admission to the wharf, still lying on the table before us; that is tangible and real at least.  The sunlight which the waters of the bay of San Francisco glistened under, and which flooded with its golden glory the mountains of Contra Costa and Alameda, looked and felt real. We can still hear the roar of many voices shouting in an unknown tongue, and see the stream of men in blue blouses, with shaven foreheads, and with long braided queues of glossy black hair and silk hanging down their backs.  The strange odor of Asiatic tobacco, spices, opium-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Mandragora,<LB>And all the drowsy syrups of the world,"</HI>
027.sgm:<P>which pervaded ship and cargo, still clings to our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>The rainy season is over at last, and we are thankful for it.  We are weary of the city, its vices, its crimes and its follies, already.  All cities are much alike after all, varying only in minor details, but the mountains; God be praised for them.  There we shall find change and beauty, sunshine, pure air, freedom, and rest.</P>
027.sgm:<P>As the steamer approaches the Golden Gate, one of the most striking features of the glorious landscape which unfolds itself before the eyes of the traveler, Is the bold crest of Mount Diablo standing out clear and sharp against the blue sky. over beyond the Contra Costa hills to the eastward of the Bay of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>When he ascends the Sierra Nevada, on his way to the Yosemite, or climbs farther up to the line of eternal snow, and looks back toward the Pacific, the dark mountain looms up grander and more beautiful than ever, seeming to have increased in size while he has been climbing heavenward, and looming up apparently thousands of feet higher in the blue, hazy atmosphere than when he stood at its base in the valley miles and miles below.  Located near the junction of the two great rivers which drain the vast interior basin of California between the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range, it rises abruptly from the plain to a height of nearly 4,000 feet; and standing isolated and solitary, with no rivals to dwarf it by comparison or detract from the effect of the picture--it is pre-eminently the great central feature of the landscape, travel which way you may.  Placed by the side of Mount Shasta, or the high peaks of the Sierra, Mount Diablo would sink into insignificance, but standing alone in solitary grandeur, he is monarch of the land. No other mountain peak in America, perhaps in the world, commands a view of such wide extent of country and so wonderful and varied scenery; and he who has not ascended to its summit, certainly has not seen and can form no clear idea of California.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Old Californians of Spanish-American origin will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:tell you, with an earnestness which impresses you with the sincerity of their belief in what they say, that three fourths of a century ago a <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
027.sgm:, chasing a stray band of cattle, ascended the mountain nearly to the summit, when he came suddenly upon a cavern from which issued great sheets of flame and clouds of sulphurous smoke, and he felt at once that he stood at the door of the abode of the Enemy of Mankind. Crossing himself with trembling hand, he devoutly repeated a prayer to Mary Mother, and turning his horse's head, rode regardless of risk to life and limb, looking not backward until he stood among his friends in the valley below, and told them of the wonder he had seen.  From that time the mountain bore the name of him who was supposed to make his abode in its depths, and no man's foot intruded among its lonely defiles and savage ca&ntilde;ons until the <HI REND="italics">Los Americanos</HI>
027.sgm:, who feared neither God, man, nor devil, came and possessed the land, carried their surveying instruments to its summit, and there set up a rude monument of stone, which serves as a base for the surveys throughout all Alta California.  The fire which the <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
027.sgm:<P>It was a pleasant afternoon early in the month <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Poor Juanita! How bitterly do I remember springing to my feet, after a troubled sleep, one glorious moonlight night a year later, in the Great Colorado Valley, and at a glance discovering that she had been stolen from beside me as I slept!  I ran out into the open ground and called aloud, "Juanita! Juanita!" but there came no answer.  Half frantic, I searched all around for tracks, and soon found the prints of her dainty hoofs in the soft soil.  Alas! a long-pointed moccassin track was beside them, and a little farther  on I discovered where the accursed Chimahuevis thief had mounted her and ridden off at a gallop across the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:sandy desert toward the desolate Chimahuevis mountains; and I knew that pursuit was useless, for long ere I could have reached the <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
027.sgm:<P>From the landing at Oakland to Clayton, at the foot of the mountain, is thirty miles, up hill and down. We ride at a gallop through the quiet streets of Oakland, the most beautiful and flourishing of the suburban towns around San Francisco Bay; passing elegant residences standing embowered among the great spreading live oaks, which gave the place its name; deep green acacias, which in this climate never shed their feathery leaves; rose trees, loaded down with flowers of every hue, the fragrance of which pervades the dreamy, soft, voluptuous, languid air; fuschias, hanging like banners of living flame from trellis-work, arbor and broad veranda; and, in short, all the flowers which, gathered from every land beneath the sun, have become acclimated here; passing churches, school-houses, and college-buildings, through a long, wide lane, leading between thrifty orchards filled with ripening cherries, apricots, plums, nectarines, peaches, apples, pears, and wide acres covered with richly-bearing strawberry, blackberry and raspberry plants, where the Chinese laborers are at work in their broad bamboo hats and blue blouses, in rows like Louisianian slaves in the "good old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:time," now gone forever, gathering the luscious fruit for the San Francisco market and emerge at last on the open farming country which stretches up to the high hills of Alameda, over which our road leads. At the foot of the hills we halt a moment, to rest and water man and beast, then strike into a winding ca&ntilde;on, which leads us up by an easy grade toward the summit of the hills.  A little stream of pure, bright water comes down the ca&ntilde;on, and, as we splash through it from time to time, we catch glimpses of hares and rabbits scudding away into the chapparal, and the beautiful tufted quail of California rise in pairs and whirr away to the leafy coverts where their nests are concealed.  The sides of the ca&ntilde;on are densely covered with the vine-like shrub known as the "poison-oak" which affects some people so terribly, even the wind blowing over it poisoning them so as to produce frightful swellings and eruptions of the face and glands. blindness, deafness, and sometimes even death itself.  This plant has no effect whatever on any animal, nor on many men. The writer has chewed its fresh leaves, and handled it with perfect impunity. There are dog-roses and many wild flowers of brilliant hue, of which we do not know the names  The summit reached at last, we stop at a roadside inn to rest and "recruit"--gentle reader, if you ever travel in California you will learn what that means--and look back for a few minutes at the glorious panorama of the Bay of San Francisco and its surroundings: the white-winged ships coming and going from and to the uttermost parts of the earth--the steamers threading <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:the blue waters, and the thousand evidences of life and progress developed in a few short years by the indomitable energy of our people on this outer edge of the continent--this western outpost of the Great Republic;  on again, down a broad, graded road, which is cut along the side of a ca&ntilde;on, leading eastward among beautifully-rounded hills, covered with a dense growth of wild oats to their very summits, across a narrow valley, and up over the broken hill-range of <HI REND="italics">Las Trampas</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The sun is sinking behind the Western hills when we pass up by a short cut through a winding ca&ntilde;on filled with wild mustard plants, as high as our horses' heads, through which we push our animals with difficulty, and emerge on a gravelly, unfenced and uncultivated plain, which stretches away to the foot of Mount Diablo, and catch a glimpse of Clayton, where we propose to pass the night.  The company all together, we propose a taste of fragrant <HI REND="italics">pisco</HI>
027.sgm: (Peruvian white brandy) all round, sundry bottles of that and other refreshments having been stowed away under the seat of the carriage in which the doctors are riding.  Something knocks Dr. Murphy's hat off, and I, Greaser style, swing down from my saddle, catch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:it from the ground, and slip it over my own. A laugh at his expense, and he offers me a chance at the bottle of <HI REND="italics">pisco</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Round, red, and full the moon rises over the eastern hills and floods the landscape with golden glory, bringing out the peaks of the mountain, and every rock, hill, and glen in masses of sharply contrasted light and shadow, very grand to behold.  Supper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>Daybreak sees us up and making ready for the <HI REND="italics">as-</HI>
027.sgm: cent of the mountain which looms up right before us with its wails of rugged rock, which look altogether impassable.  A good breakfast disposed of and we are all in the saddle--no carriage can ascend the mountain--and away up a little valley, dotted with patches of vineyards and young orchards, into a deep, dark ca&ntilde;on which leads right into the depths of the mountain.  Larks and robins are singing in the black beech and water-maple trees by the roadside, as we gallop along; and, as we ascend the defile, we look down upon the bright waters of a purling brook coming out of the mountain, in which we see the spotted mountain trout of California playing as we used to see them in the brooks of New England so long ago that we do not care--I might say do not dare--to count the years between.  Soon the road leaves the bed of the stream, and becomes a narrow path, cut-with infinite labor along the side of a precipice, over which you can look as you ride along, and drop a stone down hundreds of feet before it strikes the rocks, and goes bounding and awakening echoes down to the bottom of the ca&ntilde;on.  There is no room for two horses to go abreast, and we wind along in Indian file up, up, up, toward the blue sky above us.  The bridle-path becomes at last a mere trail--dim and indistinct; but we press on, passing the first peak, and arrive at a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:point where our horses must be recinched, to prevent the saddles slipping over their tails and dumping us over the precipice, as they go up an acclivity steeper and more difficult of ascent than any we have as yet encountered.  This matter of cinching a California mustang is no trifling feat for a green hand to essay. The wide band of woven horsehair, known as the cinch, is drawn up by the powerful purchase on the <HI REND="italics">l&aacute;tigo</HI>
027.sgm:<P>We soon reached Deer Flat, a little park-like plateau, in a sheltered nook within a mile of the top of the mountain, and stopped for a breathing spell.  A few years ago, when all California was wild with excitement and everybody was getting rich-on paper from wild-cat mining stocks, every hill and mountain around San Francisco was bored, and tunnelled, and drifted in search of gold and silver bearing quartz. Claims were actually staked off in the streets of San Francisco, and companies formed to work them, on the strength of a few wandering bits of metalliferous rock having been picked up here and there.  The prospectors pushed their way up here into the rocky defiles of Mount Diablo, and finding traces of gold, silver and copper, organized dozens of companies to work the "leads."  For months the deep gorges of the mountain echoed the sound of the sledge, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:pick and the drill, and the loud reports of the blasts let off to disengage the rock which hid from the eager eyes of the miners boundless stores of imaginary wealth.  It is all over now and silent as the grave, save when a wandering party of pleasure-seekers penetrates here, as we have done, or the hunter climbs the rocky peaks in search of deer or a stray grizzly bear, and awakes the mountain echoes with the sharp crack of his rifle.  Here, at Deer Flat, a comfortable house had been erected, and the superintendent of a mine, a Mexican, had made his headquarters.  A vegetable-garden, run to weeds and climbing vines, a field of volunteer barley--into which we turn our panting horses without a question--and a trellised arbor, covered with sweet peas and climbing plants in full bloom, which a woman's loving hand must have planted and trained, tell of the industry and taste of those who once made their home in this wild mountain eyrie.  A drink of cold water from a running spring, with the chill taken off it by an admixture of <HI REND="italics">pisco</HI>
027.sgm:, is heartily enjoyed after the hard ride, and we are soon ready for another climb.  Up a steep hillside, past tall pine trees, like those of the Sierra Nevada, along a steep, narrow "hog-back" of crumbling, shelvy stone, running through a waste of the bitter, worthless <HI REND="italics">chemisal</HI>
027.sgm:<P>We stand for a moment in silence, looking down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:on the world at our feet.  Words utterly fail to convey the faintest idea of the grandeur of the scene which bursts on our startled vision.  I have ascended mountains higher than this, but never beheld such a scene as that below me, as I stood looking down, as upon a map, upon the vast country spread out on every side.  The view was unbroken from the mountains to the sea, and what a scene!  The sun was high in the heavens; it was nine o'clock, and the whole landscape was bathed in his glory.  Turning naturally eastward at first, we see in the far distance the whole vast range of the Sierra Nevada; mountain piled on mountain, stretching to the limits of the vision north and south, with summits white with snow, glistening in the rays of the summer sun, beneath which the dwellers in the valleys are sweating at their toil.  Northward the black buttes of Marysville, far away in Yuba county, bound the view. Southward you look away over the billowy hills and fresh smiling valleys to the mountains of the Coast Range, old Loma Prieta, a hundred miles or more away in Santa Cruz, being the last object distinguishable.  Westward the ranges of <HI REND="italics">Las Trampas</HI>
027.sgm: and Alameda, and over them, the high peak of Tamalpais to the northward of the Golden Gate.  Far away to the northwest, where Napa, Lake, and Sonoma counties meet, is dimly discernible the summit of Mount St. Helens.  A white mist is on the western horizon, but, even as we gaze, the curtain unrolls and lifts from the scene, and we see the city of the Pacific, proud San Francisco, the Golden Gate, and the blue <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:ocean beyond, aye, even a steamer far out at sea, heading for the portal of the golden land.  The bay of San Francisco is only partly visible, but we see on its bosom the dark form of Yerba Buena Island, and the steamers <HI REND="italics">Washoe</HI>
027.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Alameda</HI>
027.sgm: plying to and from Oakland and the Encinal de Alameda, crowded with pleasure-seekers going over the bay for a Sunday's amusement, the shipping lying thickly around the wharves upon the city front.  The rock fortress of Alcatraz, bristling with heavy guns, rising tier on tier from the water's edge, and surmounted with barracks and officers' quarters, painted of a peach bloom color, can be readily distinguished, and as a heavy bank of mist drifts in and covers it for a few minutes, we almost fancy that our ears catch the deep booming of the fog bell,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The weary warden that o'er sea and marshes<LB>Monotonously calls,<LB>The challenge to the foe whose stealthy marches<LB>Invest the city's walls."</HI>
027.sgm:<P>A fog-bank, white as driven snow, drifts swiftly up the Marin county shore, slides over Lime Point, and fills the defiles of Tamalpais, whose summit, cut off from his base, apparently rocks and pitches in the surging billows like the wreck of some proud ship, tossed in the breakers on a stormy coast.  The mist is gone again, and the Presidio of San Francisco, with its long lines of barracks, and Fort Point, with its red brick fortress, stand out so plainly, that we look in momentary expectation of seeing the glinting of the muskets of the sentries in the sunlight, as they turn in their silent round and glance seaward for the foe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:who never comes.  The bay of San Pablo is nearly all visible, and the bay of Suisun, with its surface dotted with sails, lies uncovered before us.  The blue of the sky overhead mingles with the blue of the sea in the west, all the middle ground is emerald green, and white and cold gleam the summits of the Sierra along the whole eastern horizon.  Martinez, Pacheco, Alamo, San Ramon, Lafayette and Clayton lie at our feet; it seems as if you might toss a stone into either of them from where we stand; and, on the other side of the straits of Carquinez, Benicia, and Vallejo, with every building plain and distinct, are to be seen. Suisun, Rio Vista and Freeport, farther northward, are plainly visible, and we see Sacramento, embowered in shade trees, distinctly in the northeast. Nearer where we stand, we see long threads of yellow water twisting and winding among tule marshes and low plains.  It seems hardly possible that one of these is the lordly Sacramento, whose waters are thick with the earth from a thousand hills, being washed down by the miners in their search for gold, and on whose bosom is borne the commerce and treasure of the State, and the lands beyond the Sierra  Coming in from the southwest is another winding stream of somewhat purer water, and the eye follows it up through vast, treeless plains to the southward, until the limit of vision is reached, and it glitters in the sunlight on the edge of the horizon like a broken bit of rainbow on a cloud; this is the San Joaquin.  The dozen lesser rivers emptying into one or the other are hardly distinguishable in the bayous and natural <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:canals which cut up the tule marshes in all directions. Eternal Winter looks down from the snow-capped summits of the Sierra Nevada on Summer, in all her riches, in the valleys below us, and we, looking at both by turns, have but to cast our eyes toward San Francisco, where summer heat is never fully felt, and winter's cold never comes, to see eternal Spring. Tropical heat is felt, and tropical fruits flourish in the valleys of Sacramento and the San Joaquin, and up on yonder mountains, near the limit of human habitation, the climate and productions of New England may be found.  The gold placers of the foothills, the quartz ranges of the mountains, the wide valleys and rich alluvial bottom lands, resembling those of the Delta of the Mississippi, along the Sacramento and San Joaquin, the vine-clad hills of Napa and Sonoma, the great pine forests of the upper mountains, the boundless pastures of Contra Costa and Alameda, all lie before us.  Without Le Sage's demon's gift, we look down into the dooryards, and upon the roofs of half the dwellers in all the goodly land of California. Pacheco Valley, rich with the broad acres of ripening grain, where the reapers are already at work; Moragua Valley, green as an emerald lake, where the haymakers are; Livermore, San Ramon, Nashau, Marsh, Walnut, and a dozen other valleys, are around us. There is grass enough standing in the valleys beneath us, to feed countless thousands of cattle, but since the great drouth of 1863-4, the country is almost stripped of live stock, and we look over miles on miles of pasture, in which we cannot discern a single animal.  To <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>But the sun is already climbing high overhead, and approaching the meridian, and we have at least forty good miles ride yet before nightfall; so we hastily discuss our luncheon, wondering all the time, as we look down from the heights to which we have climbed, at the stupidity of those who dwell in the land below us.  Of the two hundred and fifty thousand people who glance up at the peak where we are sitting, every day of their lives, not a thousand ever stood where we are standing, and beheld what we behold And yet people leave San Francisco by every steamer to travel over Europe, or climb the pigmy heights of Mount Washington or the Catskills in search of the grand and beautiful in nature, and the "Colfax party" crossed the continent in search of wonders, and missed the grandest scene of all. Well, this <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Luncheon finished, we make a punch from the last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:of the <HI REND="italics">pisco</HI>
027.sgm:, and on the principle of always speaking well of the person whose hospitality you are enjoying, solemnly drink the health of "San Diablo," fancying to ourselves the wink and chuckle in which the old gentleman indulged when he heard that pious prefix to his name announced.  One more look all around the horizon--over at the ocean to the westward--across the great interior valley of California to the great Sierra on the eastward, where delicate coral hues arc beginning to flush the snow-fields glittering in the noonday sun; southward and northward to where the earth and sky joined to shut off the vision--then loosened the cinches of our Spanish saddles, and rearranged them to prevent their sliding forward over the horses' heads in the descent, and regretfully started down the mountain.  We had gone but a few rods, when somebody gave a yell, and off went all the horses on a gallop over rocks and shelving hillsides, where to stumble was to insure a broken neck, and to fall was a joke not to be endured twice in a lifetime.  As we went helter-skelter down  the hogback, "I heard something fall with a dull thud, and looking tip, discovered Juanita standing over me with the saddle under her neck, waiting patiently for me to recover my senses.  I remounted as soon as possible, and rejoined my friends at Deer Flat, where they were waiting, not knowing what had become of me. Again we are off, and as we strike the bridle-path cut along the face of the precipice, yell after yell, and whoop <HI REND="italics">&aacute; la</HI>
027.sgm: Apache succeeds whoop <HI REND="italics">&aacute; la</HI>
027.sgm: Camanche, while the horses break into a gallop, and we turn in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:and out the winding road, and dash down the steep declivity with something of the sensation which the hawk or eagle must feel as he sets his wings at an angle, and slides down with arrowy swiftness from the realms of ether toward the lower earth.  Stones dislodged by our horses' feet go over the precipice, and we hear them bound and crack from rock to rock down to the very bottom of the ca&ntilde;on, hundreds of feet below; but the sense of danger seems to give fresh, zest to the excitement of man and horse, and the mad gallop is not broken until we reach the wagon-road in the bed of the creek, or the bottom of the great ravine by which we entered the mountain. Then the guide and myself run our horses across an irrigating dam, strike a hard, smooth <HI REND="italics">mesa</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Dinner over, we re-saddle and hitch up, and are off at two P. M. for San Francisco, by the road we came on the previous day.  An occasional race, pistol shooting at quail or hare, a lunch by a mountain spring by the roadside, and occasional halts for "refreshments," only diversifying the ride homewards, and at six P. M. we are again on board the <HI REND="italics">Washoe</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Reader, it would pay you to make the trip, and may you be with us when next we mount our fiery and untamed <HI REND="italics">caballos</HI>
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027.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV. EARLY TIMES.</HEAD>
027.sgm:<P>The Days of '49 and '52.--How they Administered the Law in Tuolumne County, and Justice in Sierra.--Old Put and Judge Hollowbarn.--Pike's Sasherarer."--Peart Times on Rabbit Creek.--A Game that was Spoiled.--An Appeal that wouldn't hold, and Prediction that wouldn't do to Pet Upon.--Stories of wagers.--Insulted Dignity Avenged.--Base Ingratitude.--Dead or Alive, Drowned or Not.--A Glass-eye Bet.</P>
027.sgm:<P>BRAVE old days were those of '49,  How mankind has degenerated since, any old California pioneer will tell you with a sigh.  "Things was lively then, you bet, and one man was as good as another!" he says, with a shake of the head which implies volumes. Nevertheless, California was not wholly a Paradise even then, though it pains me to be compelled to say so.  The fierce, aggressive energy of the Anglo-American invaders, when it overthrew the social habits, long established customs and local laws of the quiet, unambitious descendants of the old Spanish conquerors, could not establish a new system perfect in all its details in a day, and something of chaos and contusion necessarily followed.  Judge Lynch generally did his work quickly and well, though being human, and as such liable at times to err, there was something a little rough in the operation of his decisions when a mistake did occur.  An old Spaniard, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:domiciled in a robber-infested section of the State of Jalisco, Mexico, once told me that he had organized all his neighbor rancheros into an armed corps, who, by waging unceasing war upon the banditti, had already almost cleared the district of the gentlemen of the road within two years.  His plan was, whenever a number of them, two or three, were found lounging about the country, "without visible occupation or means of support,' to go for them and shoot them on sight.  In this way they avoided the delays and uncertainties of the law, and saved a great deal of unnecessary expense and waste of time.  But, my friend, is it not possible that you sometimes make a mistake, and shoot a man who is <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
027.sgm: a highwayman? "Well, yes; I suppose we do, <HI REND="italics">but the average is on the right side, however</HI>
027.sgm:<P>In fact, if the plain truth must be told, Dame Justice in those days, as represented in our courts, was little better than a woman of the town; and she traveled so long in devious and crooked ways that she, became permanently disabled, and never fully recovered the free use of all her faculties, having a cast in her unbandaged eyes, and a peculiar shuffling limp in her gait as she walks, even to this hour.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>The people of San Francisco bore with her trifling and misdoings, until patience ceased to be a virtue, and then, rising in their might, ousted the old lady by violence, and installed Dame Vigilance for the time being in her place.  This made things lively for the crowds of evil-doers who had made the name of San Francisco a by-word and a reproach, and the moral atmosphere was so purified by the storm that, when the old dame came sneaking back and resumed her place in the temple, she could see more clearly.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Up in the mountains it was hard to get a first-class lawyer to accept a position so low down as even a County Judgeship, and as for the Justices of the Peace--well, some of them were from rather indifferent stock, to say the least.  "Old Tuolumne" was the great county of the "Southern Mines."  Placer gold was found on nearly every hillside, and on the banks and in the bed of every stream, while every "bar" on her rivers, the Tuolumne and Stanislaus, was a thriving village or mining camp, where miners' stores and gambling tables abounded.  Whisky was as free as water, and a fight and a man for breakfast was a part of the daily programme.  Society became organized, and courts were established in Tuolumne county earlier than in most of the counties of the State; and, if the machinery worked a little rough at the start, it is hardly to be wondered at, considering the incongruous materials of which it was composed, and the hurried manner in which it was knocked together.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Among the first Justices of the Peace appointed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:in Tuolumne was Judge Hollowbarn, a shrewd, unpolished, slightly educated; and, as his enemies were wont to say, not over-scrupulous man from the mountain districts of Tennessee, "nigh unto the Kaintucky line."  He was a natural genius; and had he come into the world a few years later, and taken to patriotism and politics instead of whisky and the law, would have become a millionaire, and made his mark in the world.  He was one of the old school, and believed in State rights and such a construction of the Constitution as would least hamper and encumber him in the discharge of the duties of his office as he understood them.  His school believed that all powers not expressly delegated by the Constitution to the Federal Government were intended to be reserved to the States as the high contracting parties and first repository of authority.  By parity of reasoning he had arrived at the conclusion that the Justice's Court, being the first on the list and nearest the people, the source of all authority, was entitled to exercise all the powers not specially prohibited by statute.  This gave him a wide range in cases both civil and criminal, and he played his hand for all it was worth, and literally went for everything there was in sight.  He was also fully satisfied that what he had a right, as a magistrate, to do, he had also in the same capacity the right to undo.  Thus, if he could marry a couple--and the statutes clearly gave him that power--it followed that he could divorce them again.  It is true that the law conferred the power of granting divorces on the higher court, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:there was not a line in the "Statutes and By-laws" of the State of California which said that a Justice of the Peace should not have and exercise the same power; and until the Supreme Court decided against him, he meant to transact all that kind of business which fell in his way--and he did.  The eldest Judge of the Supreme Court of the United States, or at least the one longest in office, was by right the Chief Justice of that august tribunal, and he being the first in rank by priority of commission in old Tuolumne, was, as a matter of course, Chief Justice of the Peace of the county, and the other Justices ranked as Associate Justices of the Peace.  Could any proposition be plainer than that to the legal mind?  Certainly not! So he regarded it, and so he, for a time, at least, half coaxed, half bullied, his  colleagues into believing. And this was not all.  He was satisfied that a traveling pedlar, who took his goods right to everybody's door, could sell double the amount on the same capital that could be worked off by a merchant tied down to his own store, and the same rule would hold good in his own business.  People might object or neglect to come all the way from a distant mining camp to Jimtown to patronize his court, but if his court followed the example vulgarly ascribed to Mohammed, and went to the Mountain, i. e., to them, at stated intervals, the case might be different, and litigation would be made a convenient and easy, not to say popular, amusement for the entire community.  Acting on this idea, he dubbed his court "The Circuit Justice's Court of Tuolumne County," and, accompanied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:by his constable and clerk, made periodical trips through all the mining camps, going down the Tuolumne river and returning up the Stanislaus, stopping at every bar, hearing all cases at shortest notice which came before him, and dealing out justice, plain or fancy, according to the wealth and social position of the litigants, as long as there were any complaints preferred, or there was even a moderately remote chance of his services being called for.  Township lines were nothing to him; no pent-up Utica should contract his powers.  Putting up a canvas for an awning, and setting out his table with pens, ink, paper and a few law books, ostentatiously displayed thereon, he would call out in a loud voice, "Oh, yis! Oh, yis! Oh, y-i-i-is!  This yere Honorable Circuit Justice's Court of Tuolumne County is now legally opened for transaction of bizness at Dead Man's Bar!" and then glancing around with an air of defiance which implied a readiness to make good his words at any sacrifice, adding, "an' any d--n man that says it ain't can jist settle it with <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
027.sgm: right yere!" A man of pluck and a "fightist from the word go," with his reputation in that line already well established, he seldom found anybody to contradict him, and for a long time he had it pretty much all his own way. But, as time wore on, and lawyers grew more numerous, trouble began to come upon him, as it is liable to come upon the worst of us.  Colonel James, Major Hoyt, Sam Platt, and other refractory and unmanagable attorneys, badgered and worried the life nearly out of him.  They caviled at his assumption of legal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>A few days after the occurrence of this disaster, Old Put had a case before him, and the Judge went in for even.  In the face of the plain letter of the law, the testimony, and his own precedents, he decided squarely against Old Put's client.  Then Put boiled over.  Seating himself on the edge of the Judge's table, he shook his fist under the nose of the impersonation of the majesty of the law, and proceeded to relieve himself as follows:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"And so you derned old skeesicks, you have gone back on me, have you?  Cuss you; haven't I winked at your iniquities; put up with your impudence; excused your ignorance; borne with your ill-temper, and furnished you with the best whisky and grub in camp for months and months?  And now, you infernal old scoundrel, you propose to throw off on me! I'll have you broke as sure as my name is--"</P>
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027.sgm:<P>"This yere Honorable Circuit Justice's Court for Tuolumne County is adjourned for five minutes, while I lick hell Out of Old Put!" roared Judge Hollowbarn, as he sprang to his feet, fairly purple in the face, and gasping for breath in his rage, shucking himself on the instant, and going for Old Put like a double-action earthquake under full headway.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Old Put, surprised by the suddenness of the demonstration, sprang for the door, dextrously throwing a chair and a three-legged stool behind, Parthian-like, as he fled, and "lit out" for home on the double-quick.  One of the stools got mixed up with the Judge's legs, and they went down together.  Before they could disentangle themselves and the Judge had regained his feet, his friends, who knew well enough that Put had gone after his revolver, got round him and persuaded him to let the matter rest for the moment, having amply vindicated his honor by putting his insulting adversary to ignominious flight.  The Judge was fain to follow their add ice, but he determined in his heart to have his revenge.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Next day he was riding across the country when he suddenly come upon old Put mounted on horseback like himself, and armed with a double-barreled shotgun as well as a revolver.  The Judge took in the situation at a glance; there was no show for talking fight under the circumstances, but he had his legal remedy for his wrongs, and lie determined to avail himself of it.  Riding up to him, he demanded to know why he insulted him the day before.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Because you deserved it, you infernal old scamp!"</P>
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027.sgm:<P>"Well, look here, Put, I'll just convince you that you are damnably fooled if you think you can play me.  <HI REND="italics">I jest fine you two hundred and fifty dollars for contempt of court</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"You fine me for contempt of court?  Why you natural born idiot, don't you know that your Court ain't in session, and you can't punish for contempt--either felt or expressed?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"I can't, eh?  Well, you jest see!  I'll show a thing or two before I'm through with you!"</P>
027.sgm:<P>And they parted without saying good-bye, each going his way in wrath and bitterness of heart.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Next day the "Honorable Circuit Justice's court in and for the County of Tuolumne" was in session, and Old Put appeared for the plaintiff in a case, involving the possessory title to a piece of bottom land, on which an honest, rough and wholly unsophisticated son of Missouri, known as Pike, had been settled for a year or more cultivating vegetables, or "garden-truck," which he peddled around among the different mining camps.  Some outsiders had jumped Pike's claim and held possession by force of arms in clear violation of right and law, and Pike had brought suit to eject them.  When Put arose to open the case, he <HI REND="italics">`was</HI>
027.sgm: promptly shut off by Judge Hollowbarn, who informed him that he was fined $250 for contempt of Court committed two days previously, and he could not say a word in that tribunal until the fine was paid. Old Put was in a towering rage, and he cursed and expostulated until he was black in the face, but justice personified by the Judge sat stern and imperturbable.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Not if this honorable court knows herself! That thing is played out.  We don't allow any more appeals from this tribunal.  That's our new rule, and we're goin' to stand by it every time after this," was the prompt and decided answer of the "Chief Justice."  The astonished counsel attempted to argue the illegality of such a rule, but desisted on the threat of a fine for contempt of court, and, considerably crestfallen, withdrew again to consult with his client. Pike wanted to know if that was the end of the matter, and he must quietly submit to be ruined in that infamous way.  The Major told him that there was but one way now left him to obtain a remedy, and as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:he knew that he, Pike, was a poor man, he feared that it would be too expensive for him.  Pike said, "damn the expense," he wanted justice, and he would have it or die.  "Well," said his counsel, "if you can give the requisite security and get a writ of <HI REND="italics">certiorari</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"How much security, Major?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Well, double the value of the ground; say $800 in a bond, with two good sureties, or the amount in dust."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"And the other thing; what d'ye call it, Major?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Why, a <HI REND="italics">certiorari</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"A which?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"A <HI REND="italics">certiorari</HI>
027.sgm:<P>Pike repeated the last phrase over several times, and in deep thought made his way to the nearest saloon and called for "whisky straight," of which he swallowed about half a pint, and then sat down to think it over.  As the liquor, little by little, took effect on his brain, he saw his way clearer and clearer out of the legal muddle, and at last rising equal to the occasion, he started a little unsteadily to his feet, and made his way as straight as he was able to the court room.  Entering the hall of justice with the light of coming triumph in his eyes, and calm determination depicted on his severely classic countenance, he advanced boldly to the Judge's table, and striking an imposing attitude, opened the campaign as follows:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Well, Judge, I've talked this yere matter over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Yes, Pike, if you think it will pay, and you ain't satisfied with my decision, I s'pose you can do it, but all I can say is, I've decided `cordin' to law, and tried to do you justice, and you'll find that out when you have spent what money you have got in lawin' it, and feeing these infernal thievin' lawyers."</P>
027.sgm:<P>Never yer mind what I'll spend, nor what you've tried ter do fur me, Judge; what I want ter know Is, <HI REND="italics">will tile security on a sasherarer do it</HI>
027.sgm:<P>"Of course it'll do it; but, as I was sayin'--"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"That'll do, Judge!  Yer infernal old skunk, I've just got yer this time whar the har's short, you bet!" Here he drew a large buckskin bag of gold-dust from his pocket, and slapped it on the table with one hand, while with the other he dexterously pulled from its scabbard from behind him his huge army-sized Colt's revolver, swung it over his head, cocking it as he did so, and bringing it down with a heavy thud on the table, with the muzzle pointing directly in the line of the Judge's diaphragm.  "Thar's my security, an' dern yer connubiating old gizzard, WHAR'S MY SASHERARER?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>The Judge was no coward, but he took one good look at the revolver pointing directly at his vitals, with its six chambers filled to the end with powder and lead, raised his eyes to Pike's face, and saw deadly determination in every curve and line and wrinkle, and--he weakened.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>"`Tain't no use of our quarreling, Pike; you can take an appeal this time!"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Oh, I kin, kin I?  Well, fer fear of anythin' happenin' ter make yer disremember it, yer kin jist pass them ar papers rite over heyer this minnit, an' the thing'll be settled!"</P>
027.sgm:<P>And Pike, as good as his word, stood there covering the Judge with his "sasherarer" at full cock, until the clerk made out the document without any unnecessary verbiage, you may be sure; and they were duly signed by his Honor with slightly unsteady hand, and passed over to him.  The precedent established in this case was ruinous to Judge Hollowbarn. He never fully recovered from the shock; and other summary proceedings following thick and fast upon if, he soon after threw up the judicial sponge, retired from the field, and drifted away from the sight-almost from the memory as well--of the dwellers in Old Tuolumne, going, none knew or cared where, to seek the obscurity he was so well fitted to adorn.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Sometimes the sentiment of the community was divided between a preference for summary justice as administered by Judge Lynch, and respect for the majesty of the law, as embodied in the legally constituted courts.  In such cases a compromise was usually agreed upon, a trial taking place with all the forms of the written law, but under the direction of Judge Lynch.  When our friend from Old Tuolumne had finished his story of the Honorable Circuit Justice's Court, Col. Charles W. Crocker, now of the <illus entity="a027-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A FORCIBLE ARGUMENT.</P>
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027.sgm:Oregon <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The bustle among the inhabitants of La Porte, the principal mining camp on Rabbit Creek, as observed through the silvery gray atmosphere which encircled the town on the morning of the 19th of March, 1852, indicated that something unusual was on the tapis. Red-shirted men, whose faces were covered with shaggy beards, whose hair fell in tangled disorder ever their shoulders, and who wore their pantaloons stuffed into the top of their boots; who carried revolvers and huge bowie knives in their belts, and constantly puffed volumes of smoke from their lips, were to be seen going from one saloon to another, or topping for a moment on the only street of which he town could boast, for the purpose of shaking hands with some old acquaintance or exchanging a ow words.  The very atmosphere seemed to impress even the most casual observer that something more than the usual dull routine of a mining camp life was bout to transpire.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Four long weary months had dragged themselves y since the snow came down upon Rabbit Creek `anon, and put an end to all out-door operations of he miners. For four months the little town had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>A slight thaw, followed by a severe "cold snap," occurring a few days before the opening of my sketch, had formed a thick crust upon the snow.  This crust being sufficiently Strong to support the heaviest man, its advent was hailed with universal delight, because it enabled the miners to get abroad. The reader may rest assured that after having been held in snowy fetters so long, the residents were only too glad to visit the town, where they could spend a few hours' in the drinking-saloons and stores in talking over the prospects of the coming season, or visit the gambling-house and indulge their passion for gaming--a passion that existed in the breast of nearly every miner in California during the five years following the advent of the mining population.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The gamblers, those who dealt faro, monte, and other games of chance, and who followed no other occupation, were delighted with the change.  For weeks it had been "dog eat dog" with them, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>La Porte, at the time of which we write, consisted of half a dozen saloons, where liquor was sold and games of chance played, two or three stores where groceries, mining tools, etc., were kept on hand, a couple of blacksmith shops, a shoe shop, and a hotel. It was as flourishing a camp as could be found in the mines; and the miners on Rabbit Creek were as industrious and thrifty as any in California</P>
027.sgm:<P>The miners as they came into the town on the morning referred to, would drop into a saloon, exchange a few words with the inmates, take a drink or two, and then go to another saloon, where the proceedings would be repeated.  Upon the countenance of every one could be observed a look which indicated relief from confinement, a determination to enjoy the day, and a sort of I-don't-care-for-anything appearance generally.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The attention of a group of persons standing in front of the hotel was attracted to a man who was descending the hill, at the foot of which the town was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>There was something in the movement of the man to attract attention, and as he drew nearer and a better view of his features were obtained, the broad, high forehead and piercing nut-brown eyes indica ed that he was a man equal to any emergency, and one who could upon occasion wield a powerful force for good or evil amongst his acquaintances.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Gabe Husker, for such was the name of the person who had become the centre of attraction, was the owner of a valuable mine a couple of miles above the town.  It was generally thought he had a large amount of gold dust hidden away; and this belief being shared by the gamblers, they had made numberless efforts to induce him to play, but so far without success.  In fact Gabe had no love for gaming, nor liking for those who managed games of chance.  He regarded all gamblers as thieves, and was no way bashful in speaking his sentiments.  The gamesters, however, refused to be insulted by him, because they hoped ultimately to be able to succeed in their designs, when they would be avenged for all the insults he had ever given them.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Times are right peart on Rabbit Creek, ain't they?" asked Gabe, as he entered one of the saloons, where a number of persons were standing in front of a long counter, waiting for drinks that were being prepared by the bar-keeper.</P>
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027.sgm:<P>"Hello, Gabe, is that you?  I' m dern glad to see you!"  " How's things out in the hill?"  "Many of the boys comin' down to-day?"  "By jingo, yon look sorter blue round the gills; come up and name yer ruin," exclaimed a dozen voices, and as many hands were extended to welcome the new arrival.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Amongst those welcoming Gabe was Hank Seymour, the owner of one of the most valuable claims on the creek--a good natured fellow, whose worst enemy was his appetite; who never visited the town without getting drunk, and, when in that condition, and unfit for any business, visiting the gambling-houses and losing heavily.  He had been one of the first to arrive on the morning alluded to, and had immediately commenced drinking.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Thank yer; `blieve I will wet my sofergrass with a mite of Kaintuck wine.  It's powerful good for a steady drink; a miserable sight better nor champagne and absence; sticks closer to yer ribs, and don't leave no headache behind.  Then, again, it's a home production, and I allers allow that a man as don't patternize home products ain't worth shucks.  So, barkeep, yer may jiss pass over yer corn-juice!"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Will you take bitters or sugar, sir?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Sugar or bitters in liquor?  Not by a derned sight!  When I drink liquor I drink it for itself and not for bitters or other adjunctifications. I sorter imagine that yer don't reckon I'm from Pike county, Missouri, or you wouldn't ask me if I drank sugar or bitters in my liquor!  No siree, Bob!  I allers drinks my liquor straight!"</P>
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027.sgm:<P>A bottle was placed before him.  Pouring a glass nearly full, Gabe raised it in his hand, held it between the light and his eye, and after gazing at it affectionately for a few moments, said:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Here's to we inns; may we all have heaps of luck and water when the winter breaks."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"We'll all drink to that!" exclaimed the miners as they raised the glasses to their lips and poured the liquid fire down their throats.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"As I remarked, when I first came in, times are right peart on Rabbit Creek, ain't they?'</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Yes, sorter, kind o' peart," responded one of the group.  "The fact is, times has been infernally dull for a long while, and `twas necessary for to do something to bust the shell.  Things having got a bopst, there is a right smart chance of peartness goin' on."</P>
027.sgm:<P>The speaker was the proprietor of a faro game, who, being anxious to cultivate Mr. Husker's acquaintance, sought to improve the occasion.  He was a large-framed, bull-necked, dark-eyed, scowling-countenanced fellow, known by the name of Chadwick, who, tumor declared, had, since his advent into California, killed one or two men and robbed a great many others, but during his residence on Rabbit Creek he had conducted himself in a manner to give no offense.  His features were marked with several deep scars, which gave evidence of his having participated in many a desperate combat, while the bowie-knife and revolver in his belt indicated that he was prepared for war at any moment.</P>
027.sgm:<P>By eleven o'clock between three and four hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>After the noon-day meal had been disposed of, the committee of arrangements set to work to arrange the preliminaries for the snow-shoe race.  Judges, time-keepers, referees, starters, etc., were appointed, rules established, and everything fixed in consonance with the ideas of the majority of the committee. Then those who were to take part in the contest were notified to appear at the starting-post.  The judges took their positions; those who had been absorbed in gambling forsook the tables, and sought places from whence a good view of the race could be had.</P>
027.sgm:<P>When the hour for starting arrived the signal was given, and the contestants bounded off with the speed of lightning.  At the last moment a woman appeared upon the scene and started with the others. She was evidently an expert in the use of the snow-shoes, and passed several of the contestants during the first hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Who is she?" was asked on all sides, but no one answered the question.</P>
027.sgm:<P>It is not my intention to give a description of the snow-shoe race, nor to paint a picture of the exciting contest.  I only allude to it for the purpose of giving the reader a clue to what is yet to come.  The race was soon over, and was won by the mysterious female, who had been materially aided by the wind catching in the skirts of her dress.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Perhaps her success may partially have been caused by the gallantry of the other contestants, who thought it would be ungentlemanly to beat a woman.  But of this we cannot speak knowingly.</P>
027.sgm:<P>There were but two or three females on Rabbit Creek at the time of which we write, and consequently great curiosity prevailed to learn which one had entered the lists and carried off the prize, and no sooner had the contestants crossed the home mark than the crowd rushed forward and surrounded them.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Who is she?" cried a dozen voices, the owners of which were pushing with might and main to get a glimpse of the lady's features. The victor threw back the bonnet and veil that covered and concealed her features, and revealed the face of a man, bearded like a pard.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Oh, pshaw! `taint no woman, after all!" exclaimed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"Then who in thunder is it?" asked one who was using his best efforts to get a sight of the champion.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Well I'm danged ef that ar woman don't turn out to be Jim Wilkinham, who lives over on t' other side of the hill," said Gabe Husker, whose curiosity appeared to have been satisfied.  "Jim has been playing roots on the boys, and is a thousand dollars better off fur havin' done so.  But dog me ef I don't think the race ought to be run over agin.  I wouldn't stand being cheated that way ef I was one of `em."</P>
027.sgm:<P>At this moment fierce, angry words were heard within the circle.  Several persons appeared to be taking part in the dispute, and again the crowd pressed forward to see what was the matter.  Suddenly the sharp report of a pistol rang out, and the crowd which had formed the circle fled pell-mell.  Turning quickly, Husker saw that a murder had been committed.  The winner of the purse was lying motionless upon the snow, while the blood, pouring in a stream from a wound in his bosom, was rapidly crimsoning the ground.  The bullet had passed through his heart, and death had been instantaneous. A few feet distant stood Chadwick, coolly returning his revolver to its resting-place in the scabbard which hung over his hip.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"What in hell have yer been a doing?" yelled Husker as he jumped toward the murderer.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Bin a givin' a dern skunk his deserts.  No dang dead-beat can ever git any of my money by such a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"I guess we Il have to go fur you," said Husker, as he laid his hand upon the shoulder of the murderer.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Don't you lay yer hands on me, or by the holy St. Paul I'll put daylight through you," yelled the gambler as he leaped back and made a motion as if to draw a weapon.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"That's played out, and it won't be remarkably healthy fur you to attempt to draw yer weapons on old Gabe.  He has fit too many grizzlies to be afeard of such a catamount as you.  Ef you surrender yerself into custody, I'll see that you have a fair, square trial, but ef you make a dern fool of yerself, you'll go up the flume without judge or jury."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"I don't propose to have you interfere in my affairs, and I guess I'll prepare you for a funeral," cried the gambler, as he drew his pistol and pointed it at Gabe.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Before the desperado had time to pull the trigger, his arms were beaten down and he was seized from behind by some of the miners, who soon overpowered and securely bound him, hand and foot, and carried him into the tavern, around the door of which a number of excited persons instantly collected. Some proposed to satisfy the ends of justice by hanging the prisoner at once, but Gabe, who appeared to have been intuitively accepted as a leader, declared that the fair name of the Rabbit Creekers should not be tarnished by acts of lawlessness.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The prisoner, notwithstanding that he was bound <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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027.sgm:<P>"You dern fools are a-wastin' of yer breaths.  Yer can't hang me.  `Tain't in the cards.  I wasn't born to be hung.  So `tain't no use making a fuss about sich a little matter, and you'd be making money ef you'd stop botherin' me."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"What makes you think there is no danger of our hanging you?" asked one of those who had been stationed as guard over the prisoner.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"`Cause when I was born'd, the stars showed that Iwas to be drownded."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"May be the stars will fail."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"They can't.  They have shone in the heavens ever since the creation, and will remain thar until the end of time; so `tis impossible for `em to fail."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"We'll see about it after a while."</P>
027.sgm:<P>The question of how the prisoner should be tried was a difficult one to settle.  There was no regularly instituted court nearer than Marysville, and to send him there and await the law's delays would cost too much money, occupy too much time, and be certain to result in the prisoner's escaping merited punishment.  After the subject had been thoroughly canvassed in all its bearings, it was decided to organize a court, and have the trial take place immediately. Gabe Husker was chosen judge, another miner sheriff; a jury was then selected to try the prisoner, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>364</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>In response to the summons, the latter entered the room where the court was being held, and seated himself beside the prisoner.  His eyes no sooner rested on the faces of those chosen as jurors than he felt that the fate of his client was decided, and, though he labored ever 50 hard, he would be unable to accomplish anything.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The preliminaries having been arranged, Judge Husker took a seat upon the table, and directed the sheriff to declare the court open for business.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes! Oh, yes!  All ye are hereby notified that this court is now open for the trial of David Chadwick for the high crime of murder.  All assembled will take notice, and govern themselves accordingly," cried the sheriff.</P>
027.sgm:<P>A few moments' confusion followed this announcement, during which the crowd endeavored to secure seats or favorable positions from which to observe the proceedings.  Silence having been secured, the judge said:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"This `ere honorable court is now open for the trial of a person accused of the murder of a human being.  I find myself in a peculiar situation, and must own that I have some misgivings of my ability to discharge the duties of that position.  But I'll try <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>365</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>"Your head is level, you bet, Judge," cried one of the spectators.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Now all that is in favor of trying the prisoner by Missouri law say yes," continued his Honor.</P>
027.sgm:<P>A tremendous "yes  went up from the throats of the assembled multitude, the prisoner voting in the affirmative, and saying:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"I like Missouri law better than Lynch law, cause you see real law has a restrainin' influence onto the jurors."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"You have decided that this trial shall be governed by real law," continued the Court.  "I think it would be doin' the neat thing ef some one would heft up a prayer as a sort o' starter.  Ef any of you have had experience in wrestling with the Lord, I hope you won't be backward about volunteerin.'  Tom Rayburn, yer father was an old prayer fighter; can't you give us a heft?" "No, thank you, Judge; the old man consumed all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>366</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>"Bill Gillam, you used to `tend meetin' afore you come to Californy; what do you say?'</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Raly, Gabe, yer Honor, ef yer please, I don't feel ekal to the task."</P>
027.sgm:<P>After calling upon several others with like results, Gabe knelt down and offered up a fervent but homely petition to the Throne of Grace for guidance during the trial.  He prayed that the hearts of the jurors might be softened towards the accused, so that they might judge the prisoner at the bar justly, and deal with him rightly.  He pleaded for courage to perform the disagreeable duty that had been imposed on him, and closed with an appeal for mercy for him whose hands were yet warm with the blood of a fellow-being.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"I say, Judge, let's have something to drink afore we go any further with this ere show," said the prisoner; "that dern long prayer of yourn has made me feel as dry as a tinder-box."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Well, I don't keer ef I do take a little tarantaler juice to make things run smooth," replied the Court.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The sheriff, without waiting for orders, hastened to fetch the liquors and some glasses from the bar. His Honor and the prisoner took a drink together, the latter saying:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"I drink to the success of yer show; now go ahead and get through with this dern nonsense.  I want to get back to my game.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The sheriff was going to remove the bottle, when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>367</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>The trial was then commenced, and conducted with perfect fairness.  A number of witnesses testified to the shooting; in fact, the prisoner himself declared to the jury that he had killed the miner, and gave as a reason for having done so, that he had fooled everyday by putting on woman's clothing, exciting their curiosity, and swindling those engaged in the race.  For his part, he thought "any dern skunk as would humbug a whole mining camp deserved to have a bullet-hole bored through his diaphragm."</P>
027.sgm:<P>After the testimony had been taken, the case was summed up in short speeches by the counsel and submitted to the jury.  A whispered conversation for a few moments followed, and then the verdict was announced.  The prisoner had been found guilty of murder in the first degree, and sentenced to be hanged the neck until he was dead.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"I'll bet any man in the room five to one that I  not hanged until I am dead," coolly remarked the prisoner, when the verdict was rendered.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"I'll take you for a half-dozen ounces," replied the foreman of the jury, who was none other than our old friend, Hank Seymour, "fur it's the only time I ever had a dead thing on you.  And now, my dying nd, let me give you a little advice.  Select the spot you want to buried in, and engage your undertaker.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Thank you for your advice, but I guess it hain't <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>368</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>"Ef you do ride over these hills after to-day, it will be as a first-class ghost, for you will be a dead man in an hour from now."</P>
027.sgm:<P>At this moment Gabe Husker approached the prisoner and said: "I hope you'll `scuze me for the part I've taken in this matter, and b'lieve that I've only done my dooty to my feller-citizens.  You have had a fair trial, `cording to the by-laws of Missouri, and I hope the decision is agreeable to you.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"I hain't got nothing to say agin it; it's all been conducted on the square; nary Jack was turned from the bottom.  I am satisfied with everything so far. But you'll be doing me a favor if you'll hurry up matters a little and get through with it.  I am anxious to get back to my game.  I'm losin' a heap of money through the dern foolishness of you fellers."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"You had better be puttin' your cards in order for a game in the other world, `cause you'll soon be a lay-out for the devil," remarked a bystander.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"May be you have something to bet that my lamp goes out to-day?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Yes, I have."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Look here, Dave, you are making a dern fool of yourself," exclaimed the gambler, who had acted as the prisoner's counsel.  "You are a bettin' agin yerself.  The fust thing you know you'll have so many bets out that these fellers will lift you outen the world fur to win their bets.  My advice to you is to prepare <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>369</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>"You are mistaken in your knowledge of the game of human natur.  Thar ain't goin' to be no hangin' so far as I `m consarned.  Dog on it, hain't I told yer that a fortune-teller read it in the stars that I was born'd to be drownded; and, if I am to be drownded, I can't be hanged!"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"I'm afeard the fortune-teller had lost the run of the cards when he told you that.  Thar ain't no chance for yer neck now."</P>
027.sgm:<P>The sheriff, accompanied by several men who had been erecting a gallows under a tree, which grew near by, now entered and took charge of the prisoner, whom they conducted to the scene where the last act of the drama was to be played  The preliminaries were quickly made, the rope placed around the neck of the doomed man, and when everything was in readiness, the prisoner was asked if he had anything to say before he was launched into eternity.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"This `ere joke has gone far enough, and as my feet are gettin' cold, I wish you would wind it up. I'm tired of bein' fooled with."</P>
027.sgm:<P>The sheriff now addressed the prisoner, saying: "You have been tried according to the laws of the State of Missouri; you have been found guilty, and the time for the execution of the sentence of the Court has arrived.  I, therefore, must proceed to perform my dooty."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"I say, hold on.  I appeal this `ere case to the Supreme <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>370</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>This change in the aspect of affairs somewhat staggered the crowd, and delayed the execution a short while.  Judge Husker was called upon to give his views upon the case, and did so, as follows:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"The prisoner was tried by Missouri law, found guilty, and sentenced to death by the law; and thar cannot be a doubt about his right to appeal to the Supreme Court of Missouri.  So fur so good.  But courts are always in the habit of goin' on until the Supreme Court issues its mandamus stayin' perceedin's.  Therefore the sentence of this court will be carried out, unless properly stayed by a mandamus. Ef the perceedin's ain't reg'lar, they can be reviewed when the case reaches the higher court.</P>
027.sgm:<P>The decision of his Honor was received with a shout, the prisoner said, "all right, go ahead."  The sheriff gave the signal and the trap was sprung. The rope broke, letting the murderer drop in the snow beneath the scaffold.  He struggled to his feet, returned to the scaffold, and looking over the crowd, said:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Thar, didn't I tell yer that I couldn't be hung? I claim my bets.  Now, gentlemen, as this show is over, I thank you for your kind attendance, and all of you as has got any money and wants a lay-out at faro, just foller me and I'll give you a lively game."</P>
027.sgm:<P>He turned to leave the scaffold, when he was met by the sheriff, who held in his hand a much stronger <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>371</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>See here, gentlemen," said he, "this `ere thing has become serious, and before you make another pull, give me time to change my bets.  I'll copper the fortune-teller this time, and play him to lose, `cause I b'leeve you fellers can call the turn."</P>
027.sgm:<P>He stopped speaking, waived his hand to the Sheriff as a signal to proceed, and in a moment more the unfortunate man was standing in the presence of Him who judgeth all things.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Times are right peart on Rabbit Creek," said Hank Seymour to Gabe Husker, as they turned to leave the scene of execution.</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Yes, right peart," was the reply.</P>
027.sgm:<P>At this point the doctor, who had apparently been asleep for the last hour, rolled over in his blankets and, with a yawn, inquired:</P>
027.sgm:<P>"And how long did you remain on Rabbit Creek after all that took place, Don Carlos ?"</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Oh, not long; I left the next day, I believe."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"Well, that is just what I'd have advised you to do if I'd been there."</P>
027.sgm:<P>"So would anybody else if they knew you were practicing your profession there, and I ran any risk of requiring medical advice.  It is a pity that many of your patients don't have somebody to give them the same advice in season to be of use to them!"</P>
027.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>372</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>Charley evidently took the doctor's attempted pleasantry a little ungraciously, and the subject was dropped.</P>
027.sgm:<P>This reprehensible-propensity for betting on every possible subject is a peculiarity of California, and crops out distinctly on all occasions.  Your genuine Californian, whether of Spanish origin and to the manner born, or Yankee by habit and only a son of the Golden State by adoption, has two peculiarities which strike a stranger most forcibly, next to his pardonable admiration for everything Californian, and, as a matter of course, contempt for anything which is not.  He is perfectly cosmopolitan in his sympathy for misfortune, want, or suffering, and ready to give on the instant with reckless liberality, to any person or cause appealing to him for assistance, and is ever ready to bet his last dollar, the shirt off his back, or the boots off his feet, for or against any proposition on any subject which any person may advance in his hearing.  Say to him, "Mrs. Smith, who has seven fatherless children, lost her house by fire last night," and he answers, "That is all I want to hear, bet your life, old boy!  Here is all the loose change I have got about me; but if you cannot make up enough, come again and I'll give you a check!"  Does he ride in a stage-coach over the Sierra Nevada, and in turning a short curve it misses stays and goes over the precipice--a by no means uncommon occurrence--he improves the opportunity as the vehicle goes crashing over the rocks, to shout in his neighbor's ear, "I go you the drinks for all hands, that over half <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>373</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:of us ain't killed!". This betting is confined to no class or race; it pervades society from its out-croppings on the surface down to the bed-rock.  It appears to be inherent in the air. Juan, the native Californian or Mexican, bets his week's earnings in the mine on the color of the seeds of a watermelon which he bought for a dime, on the result of a break-neck race between two wild mustangs, ridden by two wilder <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
027.sgm:<P>The native Indians are as fond of betting as the native or imported Californian of Caucasian blood. Once upon a time I found myself on the bank of the Colorado River, among the stalwart Mojaves, the largest and finest race of Indians on the continent. An old sub-chief had traded with a gold hunter for a Spanish jackass, known as a <HI REND="italics">buro</HI>
027.sgm: in Spanish-American countries, and was riding him up and down the river-bank in great state, as full of new-born dignity as the King of all the Mosquitoes, when he mounts a new breech-clout, and is saluted as "His Royal Highness, the good friend and ally of Her Majesty, Victoria, by the grace of God," etc., etc.  Unluckily, at the moment of his supreme happiness, a fellow Mojave dared him to play a game of the swindling cribbage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:with Spanish cards, so much affected by the red sons of the burning desert.  The banter was accepted, down went both parties on their bellies in the dirt, a ring of admiring spectators was formed, and the game commenced.  My chief lost, and In an Instant loud jeers arose on all sides; they resemble "Melican man" astonishingly, and have no sympathy for the man who gets cleaned out.  Without a word, and with a face as impassive and devoid of expression of any kind as a side of sole-leather, the grim old warrior arose and walked to the spot where the <HI REND="italics">buro</HI>
027.sgm: was tied.  Taking the cord in his hand, he solemnly lead the diminutive animal to his new owner and formally delivered him.  Thus much for his word, but now for revenge for insulted dignity.  As the winner stretched out his hand and took the rope, the loser, quick as lightning, drew a long, sharp knife, and at one blow cut through the <HI REND="italics">buro's</HI>
027.sgm:<P>I had at that moment a fragmentary suit of clothes in which I had just crossed the desert.  The shirt was of many color-mostly of earthen hue--and the collar was as stiff with sweat and dust as a piece of sheet-iron.  The drawers had once been of woollen goods, and had a seat to them, but from contact with the saddle and the great heat of the atmosphere, had done their work, and there was a frightful vacancy where the seat had been.  The socks were pretty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>375</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>I was once walking along one of the streets of that part of San Francisco most expressively known as the Barbary Coast, where "pirates, rovers and assailing thieves" most do congregate to prey upon the unwary, in company with a friend, a well-known physician, when we heard a shot, and saw a man bare-headed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>376</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:and in his shirt-sleeves run out of a house and dash into an alley, pursued by a crowd of policemen and citizens who chanced to be in the vicinity, all joining with a will in the chase.  The pursued ran like a deer, turned and doubled on his pursuers, and climbed fences, and went over low buildings into all sorts of out-of-the-way places to escape, but in vain. At every turn his pursuers increased in number, and he was constantly headed off and more nearly cornered.  Several times a policeman raised his revolver to bring him down, but did not fire--for a wonder-lest he should hit somebody else; and as often the pursued would drive back his volunteer pursuers who were closing around him, by pointing at them a pistol, with one barrel of which he had just shot his ex-mistress through the head, and shouting to them to keep out of reach or he would give them the contents.  Surrounded at last, he sat down in an area, placed his head against a fence, and putting the pistol to his head, sent a bullet crashing through his skull, before a policeman who was hard upon him could catch his hand.  The doctor and myself were in the area in a minute more, and two men who had followed him in all his turnings were close behind us.  The doctor stooped to raise the head of the miserable suicide, just as one of these men exclaimed, "He is dead as a mackerel!"  "Hold on, doctor, don't touch him yet!" said the other, reaching out to prevent the doctor's hand falling upon him, and then turning to his friend, "I'll bet you $5 that he ain't!" "Done!" said the other.  "Is he dead, doctor?"  "Dead as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>377</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>The writer was riding once on the Cliff House road on a pet mustang which, when pushed, would win a race or kill somebody in the attempt.  A friend came up on a livery-stable nag which he fancied had speed in him, and said to me, "I have got all animal here that can beat yours!"  Another acquaintance standing near, who knew both animals, replied on the instant, "When, where, how far, and for how much?" The race was made inside of half a minute by the reply, "Now, here, a mile, and for twenty dollars."  I afterwards had some of that money.</P>
027.sgm:<P>In the latter part of 1867, the ferry steamer <HI REND="italics">Washoe</HI>
027.sgm: was crossing the Bay of San Francisco to Oakland just at night-fall, when a passenger who had been watching a suspiciously-acting man, thinking him probably a thief, saw him creep stealthily to the stern of the boat, look around to see if he was watched, and then jump overboard.  The cry, "man overboard!" was raised in an instant, the steamer stopped, and a boat was lowered to look for the drowning man.  He could not be seen in the water, and the man who raised the cry was accused by somebody of selling the crowd; he had not seen anybody jump overboard at all.  He swore he had, and would lick any man who said he did not.  He found an individual ready to accept the proposition, and licked his man.  The boat started on, and the discussion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>378</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>A man known as "Little Zeke" applied one day for a position on the police force of San Francisco. His appearance at the police office was the signal for a regular burst of laughter.  His face had called up a ludicrous reminiscence of old times.  Some years ago an animated contest was going on between Frank Whitney and James Nuttman for the office of Chief Engineer of the Fire Department, and the present applicant for the silver star was an excited and deeply devoted partisan of the latter.  Little Zeke was in a saloon where Whitney had his headquarters, late in the evening of election day, pretty well panned out and deeply dejected, but still clinging to the hope of his friend's election, as a drowning kitten will cling to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
027.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>379</PRINTPGNO>
027.sgm:<P>"Well, boys, I (sob) am dead busted--have treated away all my money, <HI REND="italics">but this eye cost</HI>
027.sgm: (sob) <HI REND="italics">fifty dollars</HI>
027.sgm: (sob, sob), <HI REND="italics">and I'll put that up agin twenty-five that Jim Nuttman wins, after all</HI>
027.sgm:<P>As he said that, he ran his finger under his glass eye, and slipping it out of the socket, laid it defiantly down on the counter, glaring around at the crowd with a single optic and an unsightly hole in his head. One of the opposition was just hauling out his money to see Little Zeke on the glass eye bet, when one of Nuttman's friends came in and said:  "We give it up--Jim's beaten!" Whereupon, Little Zeke snatched up his eye, slipped it back into the socket, and started out on the run, while yells of laughter from the crowd made the building fairly shake.</P>
027.sgm:<P>Such are some of the eccentricities of Californians.</P>
028.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-028</TITLE>
028.sgm:<TITLE>Pilgrimage of Mary commandery no. 36, Knights templar of Pennsylvania to the Twenty-ninth triennial conclave of the Grand encampment U.S. at San Francisco, Cal: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
028.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
028.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
028.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
028.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
028.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
028.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
028.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>06-027975</LCCN>
028.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
028.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>89464</COPYRIGHT>
028.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>FROM  GEYSER TO CANON <illus entity="a028-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IN FRONT OF PENNSYLVANIA BUILDING AT WORLD'S FAIR</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>PILGRIMAGE<LB>of Mary Commandery<LB>No. 36<LB>Knights Templar of Pennsylvania<LB>to the<LB>Twenty-Ninth Triennial Conclave<LB>of the GRAND ENCAMPMENT U.S.<LB>at<LB>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.</P>
028.sgm:<P>PHILADELPHIA:  NINETEEN HUNDRED AND FOUR</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>MADE BY THOMSON PRINTING COMPANY 310 CHERRY STREET PHILADELPHIA</P>
028.sgm:<BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Monday, August 22, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>AFTER an all-day wrangle with the subordinates of the Pennsylvania R. R. Co., the train that was to bear westward the  fortunes  of  the 904 Frisco Club of Mary  Commandery, No. 36, K. T. of Pennsylvania, was made ready and backed into Broad Street Station at, 4.15 P. M. to-day. All those whose names were upon the roster and an army of friends who intended to see their departure had for a long time crowded the available space out side the fences and desired to see the accommodations provided on the train.  As soon as the gates were opened the rush became general and soon all were seeking their own quarters in the sleeping cars that had been lettered according to information already given the ticket holders. There had never been a crowd of such generous proportions to witness the departure of any previous pilgrimage of Mary, and the participants felt gratified accordingly. The train was to pull out promptly at 4.30 P. M. Up to within three minutes of that time it was barely possible to move about within the cars, so great was the crowd.  It became necessary for our conductor to shout out his warning cry of "All aboard" to get our friends off. Then came a crush.  Outside were pilgrims who wanted to get in, and inside were friends who wanted to get out.  They got the steps cleared none too soon, and the train started with a hearty cheer from our friends outside, returned as heartily from the pilgrims themselves.  From the windows handkerchiefs waved until the train was well out on the elevated and our cruise of thirty-one days was begun.</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Many of our ladies had been the recipients of handsome floral offerings before the start, and their first care was to procure water and utensils in which to preserve them.  Many of them were used to decorate the flower-holders at the sides of the dining tables, where they were kept fresh for quite a while.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Our Frater Frank Herst and his good wife had been on hand to see us off, and were captured by willing hands and detained in their seats until after the train had passed Thirty-second street, after which it made no stop until Harrisburg was reached. They soon resigned themselves to the inevitable and made the best of the situation.</P>
028.sgm:<P>A general inspection showed every one to be on deck with eight of the Committee of Ways and Means in general charge and McIntyre, with his old-factotum, John Robbins, at the head of the commissary department. It was soon going in full blast, and received little rest during the entire trip, except on a Sunday or two.  The train was made up of baggage car 6082, commissary and smoking car 4829, Pullman diner Coronado and Pullman sleeping cars Australia, New Zealand and Fenwood. It was but a step from the Coronado into Australia and another from there to New Zealand, but a good many more hundred miles than appeared upon our itinerary were traversed on foot between the commissary and the last car of the train before our trip was over.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Our Tourist Agent, John P. McCoy, lost no time in making himself known to us and the tickets were distributed at once by the Committee to the rightful owners, so that McCoy could collect them and take charge of them for the entire trip, saving us the necessity of being called up by each successive conductor who came on at the division of the railroad changes.  Mr. W. E. Widdeman was the Pullman conductor in charge, and we found the diner in care of Mr. Livezey.  The latter had had the care of the menagerie which represented the Commandery at York in May last and was therefore at home with many of the boys. Mr. Charles E. Stump, of Reading had been selected to wrestle with the baggage for thirty-one days, and it would have stumped anybody to find his superior in that position.  Courteous, untiring, good humored, ever watchful of our interests and always ready to accommodate either when necessary or unnecessary, he was the Prince Royal of baggage masters, and every participant in this pilgrimage cheerfully gave evidence to that effect.</P>
028.sgm:<P>There being two full sittings of pilgrims for the dining tables, the names had been divided into the first and second halves, which took precedure alternately at the tables assigned them for the trip. Besides these were five unfortunates over the quota, who were known as Rovers, and took their meals at odd times; breakfast in advance of the regulars and other meals in their rear, with an occasional invite to take somebody's place for a meal.  Promptly at 6 P. M. Livezey was ready for the first contingent, who fell to with a will, being soon followed by the second half and the Rovers.  Before the meal was finished Harrisburg was reached, and Frank and Mrs.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>It was also a good chance to stretch their limbs in anticipation of the long ride ahead to Chicago.  Advantage was also taken of the stop to fasten on the sides of the commissary car the canvas badges of the Commandery. This had been done in West Philadelphia, but they had to be removed at the command of a Celtic understrapper of the railroad company as "agin orders."  From Harrisburg they remained in place, however, until the train again reached Broad Street, a month later.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The run from Harrisburg to Altoona was uneventful, and when the latter point was reached some had retired for the night, having had a tiresome and hurried day of preparation.  Enough were still up to get up a waltz on the station platform, having also determined to have a moonlight view of the Horseshoe after leaving Altoona; suffice it to say that their view was every way successful and pleasant to the sight, and few were left awake after the Shoe was passed.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>All Aboard</P>
028.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Tuesday, August 23, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>PITTSBURG was passed through a little behind schedule time, but few of us were aware of the fact. Another fact which we were made aware of in the morning was that we had lost an hour of time at that point and had left there forty minutes before we had arrived.  This did not matter much at that time, but those who got up in the morning expecting breakfast at 7 A. M. by their watches found it was really only 6 A. M., and got up a fine appetite while waiting the extra hour. Capt. Eiler made his appearance this morning in a new suit of khaki, built according to U. S. Army regulations. He was hailed with delight by his fellow voyagers as something to be intensely admired, and the stirring encomiums passed upon that suit at this and each successive appearance on this trip filled the Captain's heart with joy, perhaps.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The Commissary was early. and often at his post this morning, and got up an extensive acquaintance throughout the train where it had in some cases been but slight.  Sociability also reigns through the other cars as the neighbors begin to study up and follow out their visiting lists.  By way of getting their sea legs on, many trips were made to the baggage car, and the cry of "Any old rags" denoted that some one was passing through with a supply of clothing for use on the train to be stowed away in or under the berths.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Fort Wayne was the first place of any size visible this morning, and the change of engines gave time for somewhat of a promenade on the station platform, as well as a few short foot-races between the girls.  A flat and uninteresting country was all that served to relieve the eye during the remainder of the trip to Chicago, but we made good time therein.  Our trip to that city was made in a little under nineteen hours, making a record run for our train. Outside the Union Station was a scene of hurry and bustle which, combined with the roar of trains on the elevated road and tangle of trolleys and teams upon the surface of the street, gave a lively appearance to our introduction to Chicago.  The Automobile Company <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Previous to reaching the Boulevard we passed over probably the worst paved streets in the entire country, and the shaking up we received boded no good to the Pullman meals.  Along the shores of the Lake men, women and children were posted with from one to four fishing rods each until the beach fairly bristled with them. The scene resembled exactly a reproduction of some of the French prints of the banks of the Seine.  The Zoological Gardens in the park furnished considerable entertainment and amusement for the crowd.  The last mobile sent had been of the gasoline type, and the party waiting for it were a little shy of the blue and sulphurous smoke issuing from beneath it.  But upon the agent's assurance that it was right, they embarked.  It barely reached the Boulevard when it took fire, and was vacated in a hurry.  It quickly burned out and left its occupants stranded.  The agent made a pretense of sending an electric in its place, and thus got his bill settled in full.  The Committee found later that they had been buncoed out of a good ten dollar bill, as no successor to the burned motor reached the party, and they had to make their way back by trolleys.  Meanwhile they can only pray that retribution may some day fall upon Chicago.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The elevated road and trolleys were afterward patronized by quite a number for short rides.  Also the fruit stands in the neighborhood, which, by fastening their peaches down in baskets with a piece of pink netting, gave a delightfully ripe and luscious appearance to what proved to be stony, hard fruit when bitten into. Other Commanderies were in town on their way to the West and many badges were exchanged with them.  While watching the crowds outside the station, the word was passed, "There goes Carrie Nation," who had been recognized by some of the bystanders.  A detail was at once sent to the commissary car in case John Robbins should need any assistance, but John had provided against any interference by locking the car doors.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The air gear of our last car had been out of order, and the train was sent to the Pullman shops to repair it.  This was done so handsomely that it worked worse than ever, and was the source of much complaint the next day.  The train was returned in time for all hands to get on board and leave on time at 6.40 P. M., while dinner was in progress.  Chris. Judd had been visiting his sister in Chicago this afternoon and was said to be missing at starting time, his arrival not being noted outside the depot.  After <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Darkness soon set in, and little was visible of the country adjacent to the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad, which now had us in charge.  Everybody was pretty well tired with the day's experience and quiet times reigned in sleeper and smoker until berths were sought at an early hour.  Some few night owls stayed late in the smoker, but only to talk things over in a quiet manner until they too had enough.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Nearly Time for old Faithful</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Wednesday, August 24, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>NICE fresh weather this morning.  Upon turning out early we found a telegram in the hands of Kid McCoy, our tourist agent, from the Sir Knights of Zion Commandery of Minneapolis, extending fraternal greetings to us and tendering the courtesy of a ride around their city this afternoon. An answer was returned to them that we had already arranged for a ride through a liveryman of their city, but would be glad to accept their invitation if we could arrange matters with him. St. Paul was reached on time at 7.30 A. M. and our first view of the city embraced the extensive milling district and the falls in the Mississippi from which is derived the power to run the flouring mills which are such an important factor in the business of each of the twin cities. While breakfast was being disposed of the train was run out to the Northern Pacific yards, where the usual inspection of the running gear was made.  One of the wheels on our combination car was found to have a sand-hole about the size of a good sized fly-speck. This was made a pretext to cut the car out from the train, a decision which was vigorously combated by all hands. A compromise was finally effected by which a new set of wheels should be put on the car by the time we were to leave in the afternoon and the car was left to the tender mercies of the mechanics, with John Robbins and Stump on guard.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>When we arrived back at the station the carriage people were on hand with tally-hos and carriages in profusion and started out at once with us for a view of St. Paul. The first one to greet us this morning had been the wife of our member, Charles Paulus, who had lately become domiciled in this city and to say that she was overjoyed to meet so many of her friends unexpectedly would be drawing it mild. After much greeting she was invited to spend the day with the party, to which she gladly acceded, and Charley promised to meet us in the evening.  The tally-hos were all supplied with the usual horn and some of the riders undertook to use them, but they were soon restored to their baskets with the remark that the horns were out of order.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>St. Paul Coaches</P>
028.sgm:<P>There had been a fierce tornado a few days before our arrival, causing damages to the extent of two million dollars and its effects were still visible on every side.  In the business section, through which our route first laid, signs and roofs were torn off and demolished, while the plate glass salesmen must have had a harvest for some time. After we passed into the residence section of the city the destruction of trees was most appalling. Although the removal of debris had been going on for some days, there was still an army of men engaged in piling up bricks from chimneys, cutting up trees and branches and making repairs to damaged buildings.  It was with sorrow we saw the immense number of fine old trees prostrated.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Our ride finally brought us to Como Park, in which is included Lake Como, a fine body of water apparently well patronized by the citizens from the number of boats lined up on its shores.  On the road thereto were many fine summer residences, most of which were beautifully shaded.  The Park itself was very beautiful in both natural and artificial adornments.  Fine trees, shady walks, <illus entity="a028-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Como Park, St. Paul</P>
028.sgm:Lover's Lanes, cozy nooks, boat houses and band pavilions combine to make a pleasant retreat, while the flowers are grown and arranged in perfection, calling forth exclamations of delight from all the feminine contingent.  One grand feature was the Gates Ajar of large proportions, with a flight of steps thereto and carpets laid thereon, all formed of growing plants and flowers.  One of our kodakers was fortunate enough to get a good picture of the same which we here reproduce.  After a tour of the Park our way led back through the city to the Union Station again.  On the road we passed the new State Capitol building now nearly finished.  It stands upon a slight eminence built of white marble and presents an imposing appearance.  Just below it was the old Capitol built <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:of red brick. Part of the business section was again traversed and we were once more at Union Station, where luncheon was at once in order. At 12.30 P. M. we had got our cars back and were off on our way across the river to Minneapolis. At the station we were met by Eminent Commander Charles L. Sawyer, of Zion Commandery No. 2, and several of his fraters who welcomed us to the city and again requested the pleasure of our company for the afternoon and evening.  A consultation with the agent of the livery company resulted at first in a determination on his part to hold us to our contract. <illus entity="a028-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Minnehaha Falls</P>
028.sgm:<P>Our first run was out to Minnehaha Falls, in a park in one end of which a Soldiers' Home was located. The Falls were very pretty and the surroundings shady and pleasant, the shade especially <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:being very agreeable, as the sun had got very warm. The location was an inspiring one and gave rise to many quotations or attempted quotations from Longfellow, who has immortalized the spot as one <HI REND="blockindent">"Where the Falls of Minnehaha<LB>Flash and gleam among the oak trees,<LB>Laugh and leap into the valley."</HI>
028.sgm:<P>Everybody climbed down into the valley, where the kodakers were busy getting pictures of the falls, and did some tall growling about climbing up again.  We did not see any of the progeny of <illus entity="a028-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Swimming Pool, Lake Harriet</P>
028.sgm:<P>This city also bore many marks of the recent cyclone, but not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>At 6 P. M. all hands were called into the pavilion to dispose <illus entity="a028-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Pavilion, Lake Harriet</P>
028.sgm:of lunch provided for us by our Minneapolis fraters.  After this was disposed of an informal meeting was held, over which Eminent Commander Sawyer presided.  For an hour and a half we made merry with words and song.  Sir Sawyer made it plain to the pilgrims that Zion Commandery felt honored by our visit to their city and extended to them the fraternal greetings and best wishes of the Knights Templar of Minneapolis for a pleasant pilgrimage to the Coast and safe return.  Eminent Commander Stewart returned the thanks of the Pilgrims for the pleasant day's entertainment prepared for them by the Officers and Committee of Zion Commandery. Further short remarks were made by Sir Knights Brehm, Bair, Eiler, Keller and Allen of our party, and E. C. Sawyer and Dr. Foot of Zion. Mrs. Gregory also kindly gave us a couple of recitations and Gregory sang for us.  Adjournment was then effected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>When travel was resumed to the Union Station it was found that our train had been pulled to the outskirts of civilization to be iced and watered.  The party awaiting it was very tired and disappointed and vented its feelings in remarks more forcible than choice, but could only await its return impatiently.  When it did arrive at 11.30 P. M. it got a joyous reception if a noisy one. While awaiting its coming a train bearing our Williamsport and Scranton fraters passed through without stopping.  We regretted this afterward, as it proved a hoodoo to our progress for several days after ward.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We were finally off at 11.50 P. M. under the charge of Conductor H. S. McLagen, a Scotch-Irishman, who developed a fine penchant for our little flags and mixed drinks.  He instituted a course of riding on the engine which was indulged in by relays until 4 A. M., the ladies being especially anxious to take part therein.  At every stop a fresh couple was put in charge of the engineer and enjoyed a moonlight ride at fifty miles an hour. Although the crowd had returned tired out, they seemed to be rejuvenated and in no hurry to seek their berths.  McIntyre sized up the McLagen at once and drawing him into a seat soon convinced him that he was related to the "McLagens of Aberfoyle" in Perthshire, Scotland.  Mac soon had the crowd cheering the McLagens of Aberfoyle to the echo; particularly the representative of the clan present.  They hobnobbed and sang Scotch songs together until well on toward daylight to the delight of a few choice spirits who seemed to have no homes to go to. Mac finally slipped out when the conductor was off the car and the latter was left alone. Everybody's hat was chalked by McLagen with one of his punched ticket checks with his autograph thereon before retiring at night and upon getting up in the morning.</P>
028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Thursday, August 25, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>WEATHER this morning bright, clear and cool. We drew into Fargo, North Dakota, at 6.30 A. M. We were met at. The station by Grand Commander Geo. H. Phelps and a delegation of Auvergne Commandery No.  2, who presented us with some Dakota souvenirs and wanted the train held long enough for us to visit  their  Masonic Temple.  This was a building costing $70,000, and was exclusively used for Masonic purposes, whereas we thought we had the only building of that character at our own home.  But the train master was not agreeable, and we were obliged to go ahead after only a short stop.  The Scranton people pulled out shortly after we came in, but we had a chance to greet our friend, Past Grand Commander Thomas F. Penman, and Mrs. Penman before they left.</P>
028.sgm:<P>This was the end of our friend McLagen's run, and he regretfully left us after an affecting parting, with his compatriot McIntyre and a hatful of souvenirs.  His successor was equally accommodating in the matter of riding on the engine as well as on the upper floor of a caboose that had been attached to the rear of our train.  As soon as breakfast was over the first relay of ladies was ready for its engine ride, and at every stop through the day, its successors were chosen and installed for this novel experience. Breakfast was a little late this morning, a fact which just agreed with those who had made a night of it with McLagen.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We were running through a great wheat country this morning, and that staple was being cut and stacked in all directions.  We were shown one field that was said to contain five thousand acres of solid grain.  Foothills are beginning to crop up along the edges of the valleys and the country shows some relief from its level <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>The coal used up here is a sort of a semi-bituminous article called lignite and sends forth the most brilliant corruscations at night and showers of red hot cinders during the day.  At 3 P. M. smoke was discovered in the smoking car, not the kind that was always on tap from the weeds burnt therein, but some that had its unmistakable source in burning wood.  It was discovered, after long hunting, between the roof and ceiling of the car, due to cinders striking one of the ventilators and falling down the crack between it and the roof.  The train was brought to a stand at a water tank near Dickinson Station Just in time, as it was beginning to burn fiercely, and deluged with water from the hose until all signs of it were drowned out.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Packing suit cases for the Yellowstone Park had been in order during the day, as no trunks could be taken on the stages.  Charley Stump had one of his busy days, as most of the ladies had to make several trips to the baggage car before being finally able to decide what she would wear and how many or how few clean shirts her male escort could get along with.  At Medora, North Dakota, we were shown the house in which President Roosevelt was quartered during his recent hunting trip through this section of the country. We were now entering the so-called Bad Lands of Dakota.  Nothing could be better named, as the country seems worthless for anything except raising rattlesnakes, groundhogs or coyotes, specimens of the latter two being occasionally visible.  The whole ground seemed to be the result of volcanic action at some former time, but is really the result of the lignite taking fire either under or on the surface.  The country abounds in this fuel.  It crops out in many places on the top of the ground in veins and even in mounds and hills.  In many cases the farmer or ranchman goes out to a ravine on his own land and picks out his winter coal from its surface. There are practically no trees in this section and Nature has settled the fuel question to the satisfaction of the land-owner.</P>
028.sgm:<P>To-day was the steenth anniversary of the day on which Charley Bair had first exercised his lungs, and he had planned to make to-night's dinner his birthday celebration, for which invitations had been issued to all on board this morning.  All the afternoon decorations had been going up in the dining car, and when dinner time arrived it presented a gorgeous appearance, with paper festoons from the ceiling, flowers on the tables and side brackets and special menus with souvenirs at each plate.  The menu was interspersed with song and sentiment, which rang vociferously forth at intervals during the repast enjoyed by the first half, and Charley's heart was made glad by the good wishes extended to him as well as the presentation from the pilgrims of Cars A and B of a half dozen steins.  So jolly was the crowd and so pleasantly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>At 6.45 P. M., at Glendive Station, time was given for a little promenade on the station platform, and there was some riding on the baggage trucks for a change.  At 7.15 the first sight of a jackrabbit was had. He scudded through the brush like a streak of lightning and squatted out of sight as suddenly as though he had been struck by the same streak.  Prairie dogs had been numerous in several places coming through the Bad Lands, seeming sleek and fat, as though they had no trouble to find abundant fodder.  We are now following the windings of the Yellowstone River, whose source we were destined to see some days later.  The sun set to-night in a gorgeous array of coloring of purple, red and gold, while the full moon arose on the opposite side at the same time, furnishing a double picture that was worth coming a long ways to see. The usual delegation tried to outsit one another in the smoker to-night until the wee small hours, but the majority sought their berths early.</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Friday, August 26, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>LIVINGSTON was reached at 5 A. M. The weather was a gain clear and much cooler. Our porters had placed an extra blanket on each berth last night, which  was  received with some derision and pushed to the foot of the berth, Somehow it did not remain there all night, being snugly in place with its mate this morning and not being at all laughed at. Quite a stop was made at Livingston this morning, owing to the number of trains in and out of the Valley. It was 5.45 before we were again under way.  Towering mountain peaks surround Livingston, and the scenery was both rugged and grand.  Soon after leaving the station we entered a narrow canon, still following up the Yellowstone River.  For a mile or so there was just about room for the railroad, the stream and a wagon road., The scenery was magnificent, although very rugged, the rocks rising almost perpendicularly on either side and lighting up finely at the tops with the rays of the rising sun.  Once through the narrow entrance the valley opened up to a respectable width and contained many ranches and small settlements.  Signs of civilization that had been invisible for many hours began to show themselves. Horses, cattle and pigs were numerous, together with the accompanying cowboy with his pony and lariat. Another house at Chicory was shown as one of the stopping places of President Roosevelt on his late tour.  We got all these locations down fine from our tourist agent, Kid McCoy, who accompanied the President on his tour and kept the reporters and other flies off him.</P>
028.sgm:<P>As the valley grew nearer to an end we passed into another narrow gorge or canon with much higher rocks on the sides. Some of the peaks were lofty and the climbing, if any could be done, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>We took leave of our train crew and John Robbins with much regret, a feeling which seemed to be mutual.  Much regret was also expressed that we could not attach the commissary car to one of the Park coaches.  Tallyhos, with six horses attached, were already in waiting to take our entire party to Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, which was to be the end of the first day's ride.  Grips and <illus entity="a028-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Leaving Gardner Station</P>
028.sgm:suit cases were rushed out and loaded in the boot behind and strapped on.  If the. coach agent could have had his own way the passengers would also have had to be strapped on.  He always seemed to think there was room for one more on each seat. In a short time every one was packed in or on the coaches and they were started for the five mile drive to the hotel.  Just a. few rods beyond the station was the official entrance to Yellowstone Park through a high stone archway, flanked by two square towers, the whole built of large lava blocks.  A large block of stone set in above the arch bears the inscription "For the benefit and enjoyment of the people."  The road goes Up through Gardner Canon, following the course of the Gardner River, which ran, cool and sparkling, alongside the road, obstructed by rocks and lava blocks of all ages and sizes.  The road is a fine one, having been built at Uncle Sam's expense and kept well watered by the same individual.  At times the grade was pretty steep, but six horses made light of it.  On <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>About half way in we met several coaches coming out which contained a band that had been brought from Boston by Boston Commandery No. 1, of that city, or rather by one of its members, who had paid all the band's expenses   sides furnishing its members <illus entity="a028-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Hotel, Mammoth Hot Springs</P>
028.sgm:<P>Our coaches reached the hotel at 11 A. M.  The house is a very fine one and the rooms very good, although the absence of any elevator makes the journey to the upper floors, even up an easy staircase, a penance not to be too often imposed lightly.  Shortness Of wind in this high altitude is not much improved by upward climbing, as many of us found Out.  The scene in front of the hotel is a notably pleasant one.  The U.S. Government has a large military station here under the name of Fort Yellowstone.  A major is in command with a battalion of the Third U. S. Cavalry under his orders.  Most of these are scattered, through the, Park, being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:stationed at all prominent points and obliged to patrol the roads to see that the Park regulations are strictly carried out.  There are numerous officers' residences, barracks for the men, cooking and dining houses, gymnasium and stables, as well as a large barn for the animals of the Transportation Company.  The open space between the hotel and the fort buildings is brightly carpeted with fine grass, crossed here and there by concrete walks connecting the different buildings and well irrigated by constant streams of water sprayed thereon.  To the right arose the accretions of the Mammoth Hot Springs of a dazzling whiteness in the hot sun's rays and rising to a height of from fifty to three hundred feet above the <illus entity="a028-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Foot of Liberty Cap, Yellowstone</P>
028.sgm:<P>Luncheon was ready promptly and was soon disposed of, most: of the party being anxious to explore the wonders before them. Some took carriages to the top of the terraces, but the majority went up the face of the white roads notwithstanding the heat of the sun and the blinding glare of the deposits, coupled with the pools and streams of hot water on the route.  The many colored <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Minerva Terrace, Hot Springs</P>
028.sgm:<P>On the summit were several of Uncle Sam's young cavalrymen in khaki on duty to see that no one attempted to break off any of the accretions around the boiling springs which surrounded you in all directions.  Their presence was hardly necessary, as the stuff was too hard to be disturbed with anything short of a sledgehammer or crowbar.  One of the lads was from Lancaster county, and all made themselves very agreeable to the tourists, especially the young lady element.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Back from the Terraces was the Devil's Kitchen, the crater of an extinct hot spring.  The entrance was through a small opening and down a ladder.  A few climbed down and braved fate, but the majority contented themselves with throwing their cards down to let His Satanic Majesty know that they had called to pay their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Sir Knights and ladies of Scranton, Williamsport, Northern and Gettysburg Commanderies were out in force on the Terraces, but were not stopping at the hotel.  They had elected to go through the Park with camping outfits, which house their parties in tents at night all the way through.  Numbers of our party took carriages by a roundabout road to the top of the formations and then; walked <illus entity="a028-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Fort Yellowstone</P>
028.sgm:<P>One section of Boston Commandery's people came back to the hotel for dinner this afternoon on their return from the tour of the Park.  They were at once hail fellow! well met with Mary's people, and our little flags were in great demand for exchange with Boston baked bean pots.  After dinner, when the Bostonians resumed their places on the tallyhos, they were given hearty cheers by Mary and lustily returned the compliment as long as they could be heard.</P>
028.sgm:<P>McIntyre and Lines spent the afternoon in a trip to Firehole River, where the guide who took them said the trout were aching <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>The evening was a beautiful one and was charmingly spent. Everybody at some time made the tour of the post buildings, inspecting everything, from the kitchen to the guard house, which indispensable adjunct was occupied by several regulation breakers as usual.  The ladies especially were desirous to see the sights of a <illus entity="a028-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Deer and Elk Antlers</P>
028.sgm:<P>Inside the hotel an orchestra furnished music all the evening. On the ample porches all the chairs were occupied and merry voices <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Hot Spring in Yellowstone Lake</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Saturday, August 27, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>THE same soldier  that tapped us off last night roused us this morning with reveille and the sunrise gun or salute to gas it was raised on the post staff, completed the awakening for most of the party.  Some of us had been awakened at a much earlier hour through the fact that McIntyre had been  taken  sick with cramps during the night.  It  was  necessary  to rout out Doc. Wells, who responded cheerfully, after  making  his toilet, and soon had Mac quieted  down  with  a hypodermic and enabled him to secure a little needed rest,  It was not supposed for a moment that Mac would be able to go on with us this morning, and general despondency seized on the party at the announcement.  However, he forced himself to get his clothes on and after breakfast came down and seated himself in a hall chair, with the expressed determination to go ahead with the party.  This roused the spirits of all hands, and the feeling culminated in loud cheers as McIntyre's name was called for No. 2 coach and he climbed aboard.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The Park coaches were a little crowded on account of the rush through the Park of Knights Templar parties.  Although only intended for two on a seat, they were made to accommodate three each, making parties of twelve with the driver.  There was about room enough, but none to spare for stout persons.  The baggage was again carried in the boot and did not interfere with the passengers.  At 8 A. M. four horse coaches came rapidly up, were loaded and driven off in quick succession to the number of eight for our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:own party, being soon scattered in detail along the route.  Each coach had its party detailed who were to occupy it during the whole Park trip.  Passing around the Hot Springs formations we took the road to the south in front of Jupiter Terrace.  The road immediately began to ascend and continued to ascend until a rise of one thousand feet had been overcome in the first three miles.  Wild and romantic scenery appeared from the start, and amidst the wildest of it appeared a forest of rough upright rocks, which the driver said were the Hoodoos.  How such a collection of monoliths was gathered at one place none can tell, but they are certainly well named. If one were cast away in their midst without a compass he might <illus entity="a028-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Jupiter Terrace, Hot Springs</P>
028.sgm:</ILLUS>wander around indefinitely.  Just after leaving them the road passes between two immense rocks, known as the Silver Gate.  Just beyond we went through or around the Golden Gate.  There the mad has been blasted out of the solid rock on one side and a concrete arched roadway built below on the outside.  A running stream follows the road all along here, and just after passing the Golden Gate it drops toward us in a very pretty cascade about sixty feet high.  This gave our camera fiends a chance to take a very pretty picture, of which some of them availed themselves. Just opposite the Gate was another Devil's slide from top to bottom of Terrace Mountain.  If that individual makes use of all the slides we have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Some lofty peaks are in sight from here on, of which Mount Holmes is over 10,500 feet high, and Electric Peak extends Over 11,000 feet in the air.  Huge patches of everlasting snow were discernible on several of them.  A number of coaches passed us at intervals containing the second half of the Boston Commandery contingent.  Each load of passengers seemed to take great pleasure in informing us that there would be nothing for us to eat ahead. Why, we have not yet found out.  Grey squirrels and little hackies or chipmunks abound on either side of the road.  They sit up on the logs or stones and watch the coaches go by as unconcerned as <illus entity="a028-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Golden Gate, Yellowstone</P>
028.sgm:<P>Roaring Mountain makes it appearance on our left, giving out a loud noise like escaping steam under heavy pressure, but no steam or other cause for the noise could be seen.  Beaver Lake was passed on the right, with the remains of a couple of old beaver dams showing above the surface. The Apollinaris Spring, about ten miles out from Hot Springs, was one of the notable features of the morning's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:ride.  It lies but a few steps back from the road, and all the coaches were halted to enable their pasengers to taste the water.  This was found as good, if not better, than any of the manufactured waters. It was sharper to the taste, and we all thought it a shame to allow it to run to waste.  It runs from the spring to the tank at the side of the road and the overflow runs down the gutter.  That in the tank is utilized in the road sprinkling carts.  The Obsidian Cliff is a huge mass of perfect, very dark glass, looking about like that which is made into porter bottles.  It rises about 250 feet high and extends for a quarter of a mile along the road.  The Twin Lakes also lie on the right of the road on this morning's ride. The <illus entity="a028-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>No. 1 Coach, Yellowstone</P>
028.sgm:<P>We arrived at Norris, a cosy little dining station, promptly on schedule time at noon, and found a party just vacating the dining room.  We were compelled to wait until the tables were reset and charged.  This was soon accomplished, and we sat down to a most homelike and enjoyable lunch, which was further enhanced by first- class service from the girl waiters.  The apple pie dessert was the theme of all who had partaken of it, and all enjoyed the breakaway from the regular course meals of diner and hotel.  Heavy clouds had been rolling around the mountain tops with the thunder reverberating <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Luncheon finished we made an observation of the Norris Basin. Hot springs and boiling paint pots, steam jets and all other contrivances abound here.  All shades and colors exist here, and you can take your choice.  The Constant Geyser goes off every half minute or so and spouts to a good height.  The Emerald Pool is of a beautiful green tint, very hot but not greatly agitated.  The Devil's Boiler, the Hurricane and the Black Growler work under heavy steam pressure and emit that article with a roar like a boiler blowing <illus entity="a028-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Constant Geyser</P>
028.sgm:<P>Our guide led us finally to a rustic waiting booth beside a platform, from which we again took our places in the coaches.  A little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Waiting for the Devil to Take His Bath</P>
028.sgm:<P>The rain got heavier, and we were obliged to drop all the side curtains and shut ourselves in, thus shutting out to a great extent the beauties of the Gibbon River Valley, through which we were passing, although we secured a good view of the Gibbon Falls or Cascades, the beauty of which was much enhanced by the amount of water falling from the clouds.  All the ladies who were on the box seats forsook their perches except Mrs. Holt, who .pluckily remained at her post through it all and arrived at the Fountain Hotel in the evening none the worse for her experience.  Captain Eiler got in out of the wet on his coach for fear the khaki suit would shrink so tightly that it might not come off.  For over three hours the rain came down in torrents, with thunder and lightning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Inside the hotel a big wood fire was glowing in the large open fireplace, which was gladly welcomed by all hands, who held out their hands as if glad to shake with it.  Keys of our rooms were soon secured, damp wraps removed and all enjoyed a good wash-up and were ready for dinner when it came.  We found Allegheny Commandery, No. 35, in possession, they having arrived just ahead of us.  They came in from Monida at the lower end of the Park, having ma.de a stage ride of ninety-four miles in one day, a trip before which our forty-mile drive paled into insignificance.  They pretended to have enjoyed it, but did not look it. They proved themselves a jolly set, however, and soon fraternized with Mary.</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>After dinner it was reported that Fountain Geyser was due to get in its work, and a large crowd soon stood around its rim in waiting for the show.  They waited and waited until darkness set in, and a drizzling rain set in, but the Geyser was in an obdurate mood and merely kept growling and swishing its waters about down in the hole, once in a while sending up a little encouraging cloud of steam.  Just abreast of the Geyser, but a few hundred feet distant, were the Mammoth Paint Pots, huge cauldrons of bubbling masses like thick paint or mortar constantly boiling and sputtering.  They were of different colors and consistencies and were really more of a curiosity than the Geyser, although the latter must have thrown out immense quantities of water, judging from the <illus entity="a028-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A Paint Pot</P>
028.sgm:<P>Rain fell all the evening and kept the party indoors after dark. The time was very agreeably spent, however, in the large reception hall.  There was some card playing, but most of the party were singing rag-time songs in unison, with piano accompaniment. Later on dancing was indulged in and the hour was late before the last of the lambs sought rest.  Our unfortunate last coach came in about three hours late, but none of its passengers suffered any harm from the additional exposure.</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Sunday, August 28, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>THE rain continued most of last night, but the weather was clearing  this morning. Nearly all were inclined  to  rest this morning, and late breakfasts were in order.  Allegheny Comandery was scheduled to leave at 8 A. M. and got off very nearly on time. Our coaches not being due until an hour later, the pilgrims scattered in groups  around the Geyser Basin and Paint Pots again.  The Fountain was again either overdue or not due yet this morning and refused to be coaxed into activity, although the water was still boiling and swirling viciously some distance below the rim.  Even a few stones surreptitiously kicked down its throat, contrary to all Park regulations, failed to awaken it to a sense of duty.  The Paint Pots, however, kept their contents in a violent state of ebullition and excited the admiration of Ollie Price, who would have liked to transport them to Philadelphia.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Our elevation at this point was 7,250 feet above sea level and the surrounding hills rise from 600 to 800 feet higher, and the exertion of walking up hill always gave due notice of the rarity of the air.  Macduff was himself this morning again, having enjoyed a good breakfast and a smoke.  Macduff in this case, of course,, means McIntyre, who gave unmistakable evidence of being in better condition.  We left the Fountain at 9 A. M. in our regular order, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Giant Geyser</P>
028.sgm:<P>Prismatic Lake was a beautiful sight.  A broad, shallow basin of very hot water, the bed of which or crust under which was finely coated with many colors.  In the centre the pool was of a deep blue.  Around the edges among the shallows appeared orange, brown, purple and gray bands in successive layers, which showed up in beautiful shape whenever the steam blew aside.  As coach after coach drew up and deposited its load, exclamations of wonder and pleasure were loud and deep.  The hot water overflowing its banks on all sides made navigation with dry feet difficult.  The Turquoise Spring was a quiet pool, although a hot one, and of a blue color, as its name implies.  The Giant Geyser is another star <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>In Hell's Half Acre</P>
028.sgm:<P>So many and various were the hot water and steam outlets from the hot regions beneath that it was more than difficult to keep track of all of them.  The appropriate name of Hell's Half Acre so fitted one section that further description of it seems unnecessary. This Upper Geyser Basin not only contains twenty-six working geysers and more than 400 hot springs in the open field, but also has many openings spouting steam among the trees in the surrounding forests.</P>
028.sgm:<P>A little behind time at 12.10 P. M. we drove up to the Old Faithful Inn, just as the geyser of that name happened to be indulging in one of his periodical outbursts, apparently in honor of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Entering the quaint old doorway, each person was greeted by the manager, Larry Matthews, with a hearty handshake and an <illus entity="a028-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Old Faithful Inn</P>
028.sgm:<P>The inside work throughout the hotel corresponds thoroughly with the outside apearances.  The inside partitions, even between the rooms, are all logs with the bark stripped off.  The newel posts, balusters, hand rails and balcony supports are all natural crooked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:and curved sticks with immense gumboils and other protuberances upon them that cause one to wonder where they were all culled from.  The flights of stairs were formed of half logs with the flat sides up and were undoubtedly "good for strong."  The water spigot in the main hall was formed of two crooked roots fitting perfectly into one another and the waste water fell into a hollowed natural lava block as large as a good sized foot-bath.  The reception hall was open to a height of eighty feet with galleries on each floor all round, enclosed with the aforesaid natural handrails.  In one corner was an immense stone chimney with eight open fireplaces, <illus entity="a028-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Porte Cochere, Old Faithful Inn</P>
028.sgm:<P>However, the bustle of finding our rooms, getting the baggage placed therein and washing up soon changed the current of their thoughts, and the luncheon hour found them in readiness for the dining room.  This was also fitted up in keeping with the quaint character of the building.  The tables and chairs of rustic build, the chinaware of the old blue willow pattern and the chandeliers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>The bedrooms were in keeping with everything else, with log partitions and quaint furniture in the shape of bureaus and writing desks that might have been sawed out in the wilderness.  The doors were of unplaned lumber, with immense thumb-latches wrought <illus entity="a028-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Corridor, Old Faithful Inn</P>
028.sgm:<P>As soon as possible after lunch the party overflowed the plateau in search of new attractions and adventures.  Old Faithful was, of course, the first attraction, almost the entire party waiting for his act.  He is almost as regular as the clock.  Every sixty-five minutes, as near as may be, with very little variation, he begins to fill up his crater and boil and bubble.  After two or three preliminary coughs and some spitting out of water that flows down the mound on all sides, the spouting begins and the hot water is thrown up, gradually increasing to a height of about 80 or 90 feet, although it is said to have reached a height of 160 feet at times.  Clouds of steam accompany the water and to a great extent hide the column <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Curio and photograph stores as usual were in demand with some of the party, and none came away from them empty handed. Kodakers were also busy in and around the hotel and the Geyser. Under the guidance of a witty professional guide most of the party made a tour of the basin in search of other geysers, large and small. The Firehole River runs but a short distance away.  Crossing this on a foot-bridge they were soon in a region of more marvels. In succession they came to the Bee Hive, Giantess, who, like the <illus entity="a028-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Old Faithful Staircase</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Toward evening most of the party had returned and were wending their way in groups down to "see the bears feed."  The road leads through a grove of pines in the rear of the hotel, in which are located the stables for the teams and also another camp of Uncle Sam's boys in khaki.  The garbage dump is about a quarter of a mile back, and here the bears call for their supplies.  The crowd that gathered there was sufficient to scare any kind of animal Yet the bears made their appearance and rooted away for dinner entirely unconcerned.  At first but one or two appeared, as big and fat as any corn-fed hogs, but later the whole drove, with several <illus entity="a028-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Interior, Old Faithful</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>In the rear of the hotel was a power house and a saw mill, in which most of the timber for the hotel had been cut.  It had lately been engaged in cutting firewood for the house, of which hundreds of cords were piled around.  This is the only fuel to be had here, and an almost unlimited supply lies along the roads over which we have driven.  The thousands of trees cut down and dragged aside simply to make open spaces for the roads seemed almost a profanation of the natural beauties of the Park.  Theo. Lines and Mcintyre again went fishing in the Firehole this afternoon and came back with four trout, the combined length of which might be eighteen or twenty inches.  Just before their return two <illus entity="a028-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Old Faithful</P>
028.sgm:<P>After dinner the little tables were fully occupied by writers, who were sending both letters and souvenir postals.  The mania for the latter has spread, and almost the entire party has been inoculated, 50 that postals are dropped everywhere except in the road. Announcement was made that religious services would be held in the reception hall this evening, and Larry arranged about a hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Old Faithful Photo Shop</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Old Faithful Guards</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:chairs, and Rev. Dr. Blackburn, of the Church of the Strangers, New York, invited the attention of those assembled.  Nobody had given any thought to the day as Sunday, even the preacher had been cavorting around to see all that could be seen, including the bears.  Nevertheless the chairs were at once filled with a fine audience, while the unregenerate sat outside on the porch and listened through the plate glass and smoked.  After a couple of preliminary rounds of prayer and hymns the preacher tackled his sermon and gave quite an able and interesting discourse, which was attentively listened to and apparently much enjoyed.  When the wind-up was announced by the speaker to consist of a wrestle with another favorite hymn, he was interrupted by the watchful Larry, who had been opening and clicking his watch case for some minutes.  He alone had thought of Old Faithful, for whose observation this house had been built.  Larry had evidently heard sermons before and knew <illus entity="a028-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Lined up</P>
028.sgm:<P>The evening services came to an abrupt termination and everybody passed out onto the porch or in the road to see the "Geezer," as Larry always persists in calling them.  Old Faithful came to time to the minute, the electric searchlight played its part and no one seemed to regret in the least the change of program, and Larry came in for more praise than the preacher.  The ridiculousness of the close of the services apparently overcame any serious effects of the sermon.  After the close of the outside performance other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"Larry"</P>
028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Monday, August 29, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>THE bright rays of the morning sun showing over the mountain tops ushered  in  another bright and clear morning. The original Larry was early on deck with an inquiry as to whether you had rested well last night and also  as to what he could do for you this morning.  This  kept him fully as busy for awhile as the welcome he  extended  everybody on arrival.  As we were scheduled to leave early, everybody was early to rise and early to breakfast, some going out who had time to see Old Faithful perform another turn before leaving.  More trips were made to the curio shop for postals by those who had seen something different from their own in some other collection.  The luggage was brought from the rooms and piled by itself, as other coaches left before ours.  At 8 A. M. Larry bade godspeed to the tourists in advance of us, after whose departure he was pinned up against the outside wall by our whole force of camera fiends, Jake Haines, Doc. Wells, George Simpson, John Keen, Billy Brehm, Harry Hinckle, Jr., and Frank Reese, to get his photo.  As one after another rushed up and called on Larry to wait for one more he threw up his hands in mock despair, but submitted meekly to his fate.</P>
028.sgm:<P>By 8.30 A. M. our coaches began to appear and were loaded up again in their regular order.  This order must be maintained during the entire park trip, the coaches not being allowed to pass one another except for special causes.  Larry bade us good-bye with both hands, wishing us a pleasant journey, and hoping to see us again. We all reiterated the hope, especially his understudy, McIntyre.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:Geysers were again on view as we rode this morning.  They persisted in popping up in unexpected places after we thought we had seen the last of them.  The skies had clouded over again and we were treated to several sudden showers, which kept us busy raising and lowering the side curtains.  They still rendered oui dusters of no avail, but rather urged upon us the claims of our overcoats, which were not found amiss.  It had also evidently been raining through the night, and in some places it was heavy dragging for the teams.  The road this morning ascended to the top of the range of mountains known as the Continental Divide, crossing it twice.  A rain storm on this summit may reach widely different <illus entity="a028-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Yellowstone Coach</P>
028.sgm:destinations after falling from the same cloud.  On one side it will go to the Gulf of Mexico by way of the Yellowstone, Missouri and Mississippi rivers, while the other half will descend to the Pacific Ocean by way of the Snake and Columbia Rivers.  8,300 feet was the altitude registered on the mile post near the top.  The altitude and distance between stations are recorded on each of these mile posts or boards, and some one or more lookouts on each coach was always ready to announce the number of miles to be made before the next stop.  Much satisfaction is often expressed as the number grew less toward the close of a day's ride.  Only a few miles from Old Faithful Inn we saw the Keppler Cascades, a beautiful series of falls in a rocky glen which afforded beautiful views up and down.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>At Shoshone Point another series of grand views opened up to our gaze.  Shoshone Lake lay as placid as a mill pond in the distance, and the heavily timbered hills formed a fine dark green background for the picture.  Steam spouting up in various directions showed that our old friends, the Geezers, were still cognizant of our presence.  The steep roads up the ascents this morning, being very heavy, seem to distress some of the teams very greatly, and some of the party got down and walked to relieve them if only for a little. <illus entity="a028-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Keppler Cascades</P>
028.sgm:<P>Our ultimate destination this morning was Thumb dining station, which entailed a ride of nineteen miles. This is so called from an arm or inlet of Yellowstone Lake, which resembles the thumb on a mitt or glove, of which the lake resembles the whole. At Lake View, within a mile of our destination, we got the first view of this fine body of water, While Shoshone Lake is said to be the highest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Hot Spring, in Yellowstone Lake</P>
028.sgm:<P>We pulled up on time at the station platform and found our Allegheny friends again in force there and doing their duty in the dining room.  We had a chance to was,, up before our turn came, and then did full justice to a substantial and well served meal. The rush through the Park has tried the resources of the meal stations; but in every case we have found them equal to the demands upon them, and Thumb was no exception to the rule.  Its dining room and service was all right, but its wash and toilet rooms might be kept in better order.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Another hot spring area combined with hot mud adjoins this station, Paint Pots, as they are called, of all hues and intensity of action are within a very short walk of the building.  One of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:was of a dirty hue and the consistency of thick mush. The particular devil who had to attend to it below must have been of a very spiteful nature.  If you watch it for a few moments it will give a blub-blub and spit at you as if it meant it. A Sir Knight who had a light suit on got a dose down the front of it that he has hardly succeeded in removing yet from the look of it. George Kessler almost got another one, but dodged in time.  The hot water springs were also numerous and close together.  The water of most of them was quite a heavenly blue, rather in contradiction to the source from which they are supposed to come.  Some of them are close to the water's edge, and in one or two instances can be seen boiling up <illus entity="a028-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Buffalo Bull</P>
028.sgm:<P>From this point a steamer runs to the Lake Hotel, our stopping place for the night.  About twenty-five of the party elected to go on the lake ride, while the balance stuck to the stages. At 1.30 P. M. the steamer Zillah pulled out from the wharf with them on board, followed by the farewells of their comrades. The boat made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:its trip in about two hours, while the coaches had a three and a-half hours' ride ahead of them.  Stopping at an island in the lake, the boat voyagers were treated to the sight of a small collection of animals, among which was an immense buffalo and several elk.  The coaches were again lined up at 2 P. M. and started on what proved to be a wild and fierce ride.  A heavy thunderstorm passed just ahead of them and laid the dust.  Not only laid it, but made it up into first-class material for paint-pots, washing out generous slices of the edges of the road in doing so.  Five miles of the road was stood up on end or very nearly so, and the brakes had to be put on very frequently, while the distressed horses took breath for another tug. Deep gullies in the washed road kept the hearts of some of the ladies in a flutter and the reverberations of the thunder around the mountain tops, as the storm kept ahead of us, added to their nervousness.  Fortunately the rain i elf did not strike us, but worked around and out over the lake.  Another two miles of the road was <illus entity="a028-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Lake Hotel</P>
028.sgm:<P>We arrived bruised, battered and tired at Lake Hotel at 6 P. M., and were received with open arms by the boat contingent, who had come in two hours ahead of us.  Some little time was spent in getting rooms located and the baggage stowed away, as all of the latter came by coach.  Allegheny had also arrived just ahead of us and the presence of a couple of hundred guests had 50 rattled the manager that his wits had gone wool-gathering.  For a time he did not know whether he was running the house or the house running him. However, we were all fixed after some waiting and more badgering, and got a refreshing wash.  Dinner was attacked with a will and put to rout with great slaughter. The storm bad taken another turn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>After dinner Captain Eiler, having changed his Yellow Kid uniform for something warmer, announced that he would have a line-up and short drill on the front porch of the hotel at 8 P. M. In the face of the rain, hail and wind that were holding high carnival when the order was issued, it seemed preposterous. But fortune favors the brave, and when the hour arrived the rain had dwindled down to a little drizzle.  Overcoats were in great demand, and the boys assembled at the appointed hour determined to obey orders or drown.  The general rush through the front door brought all the remaining guests to the front windows, where the breaking in of the awkward squad created considerable amusement for them.  The porch floor being very wet and slippery, it was a ticklish job, and hardly possible to keep the lines straight. Our fraters of Allegheny gave us credit for attempting to drill under such difficulties, but the ladies gave us the merry ha-ha. However, it was a chance Cap had been waiting for for several days, and served to break the boys in a little.  They demanded a drier and more secluded spot for the next drill and kicked unanimously against hotel porches.</P>
028.sgm:<P>After the drill the more comfortable air of the hotel lobby was in demand again.  Numerous card parties were formed and continued until a late hour. Euchre, hearts, whist and flinch were going all at once. Harry Heist, Brehm, Stewart and a party of ladies were manipulating the latter game with so many disputes that Chris Judd had to spend his evening as an umpire to keep things straight. Dancing was also indulged in to some extent not to let the hotel music go to waste.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The Lake is one of the finest hotels in the Park, having lately been improved by the addition of front porches with some noble columns reaching clear to the roof.  As we progress in the Park the wonder grows how the Transportation Company could build such fine houses for the few months' summer trade in each year, and keep them stocked to fill out their menus so far from a base of supplies. The location is a fine one, directly on the shore of Yellow- stone Lake, which affords a fine view.  The air was strong and bracing, and the altitude about 7,700 feet.  While there are few of the natural curiosities of the Park in close touch, the fishing in the lake is said to be of the finest description.  Many of the pilgrims would have liked to spend a day or two more at this point, as it seemed a restful place, but our time, like Larry's Geezers, would wait for no man on this trip.</P>
028.sgm:<P>As usual, Mary was about the last to retire to-night.  They have no first or second calls to breakfast these days, and they rise at their own sweet will and go into the dining rooms when ready. There are also bears who have summer board at the rear of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The Old Bear</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Tuesday, August 30, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>RAIN was falling off and on neatly all night, but morning broke bright and clear again. McIntyre, Lines and Doc. Wells had planned to get off early this morning and try the fishing in the lake for twos or three hours, while our coaches  would  pick them up about three miles down the road.  Mac and Lines were on deck early enough, but the kitchen bosses were slow in getting breakfast ready. It was 6.30 before they could be accommodated with something warm. Then they cut it short and ran for the boat they had engaged. Doc Wells was up the better part of the night with a very sick Allegheny Knight, and only got to sleep about the time he wanted to get awake, and so missed his trip.  The breakfast this morning was none of the best, and the service on a par with it.</P>
028.sgm:<P>There were no geysers or other curiosities in the immediate neighborhood, the single curio store was sold out, and the crowd had to find amusement for itself in the hotel front until time for the coaches to start.  Two of Uncle Sam's cavalrymen rode up to the porch with some mail, and were besieged with all kinds of questions. They gave out any information they possessed very freely, and loaned one of their horses, fully equipped, for some of our girls to have their pictures taken as cow-girls. Yesterday afternoon as we were driving here we were shown the Sleeping Giant, formed in outline by the tops of the peaks on the other side of the lake. This infant is forty miles in length.  His face, head and shoulders appeared pretty plainly, also his legs, knees and feet, which are long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>There being nothing to detain us, and the coaches being in readiness, we agreed to start a half hour ahead of schedule time. Accordingly we commenced loading at 9 A. M. and were soon enjoying the cool morning air along the bank of the lake. It did not take long to reach the point at which we were to take on our fishermen, but they were not in sight and repeated calls and whistles brought no response.  The question then arose with us whether the boat had been upset or the fish had been biting too fast to leave them. Finally Mrs. Mac. let out a screech which drew a response from Mac., who was walking along the bank empty handed, but apparently highly elated.  In reply to our questions he stated that they <illus entity="a028-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Mud Geyser, Cologne Fountain</P>
028.sgm:<P>It was another hard climb for the horses up the mountains this morning, but the ride was pleasant and the air cool.  Where we picked up our fishermen was near the outlet of the lake into Yellowstone <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Once over the mountains the road follows the Hayden Valley, or rather runs along the top edge of it. The view at times was very beautiful with the Yellowstone meandering down the valley, the ground covered with wild flowers by the acre, and mountains surrounding <illus entity="a028-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>North Pacific Trademark</P>
028.sgm:it on very side. Mary Mountain was pointed out to us, but was too far distant for us to make a call on it.  Sulphur Mountain was a series of detached buttes, or foot-hills, where pure surphur can be picked up in lumps and sulphur springs abound.  Likewise the odor of antique eggs. Down in the valley the road made many twists and turns, and is in process of reconstruction.  Uncle Sam's road gangs were at work in many places, and had a construction camp at one point that made quite a village. Road wagons, horse shovels and scrapers of all styles formed part of the equipment. Bridge builders were also in the gang.  Along Trout Creek the waters have cut a channel exactly resembling the familiar North Pacific trade mark painted on all their cars and heading all their time-tables.  Alum Creek also empties its waters into the Yellowstone close by and is now crossed by a bridge.  Our veracious driver said that when it was forded it sometimes shrank a four horse team down to a pair of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>About 11 A. M. we got a fine, but distant, view of the Canon Hotel, our destination for the day, perched on top of a good elevation.  Shortly before noon we wound up this delightful morning's ride, with the new Grand Canon bridge looming up before us. This is a structure spanning the rapids of the Yellowstone, above the Upper Falls, built entirely of concrete of a single span 250 feet long with solid approaches on either side. The water beneath formed a series of rapids and whirlpools not unlike the rapids below Niagara, but of course not so wild. Without crossing the bridge we drove on to the Upper Falls. There all left the coaches and worked their way <illus entity="a028-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Yellowstone Rapids, Concrete Bridge</P>
028.sgm:<P>Another drive of a quarter mile up the steepest kind of a winding trail brought us to the door of the Canon Hotel.  The house stands upon an elevation 1,000 feet above the level of the Lower Falls, and affords a fine view of the country on the opposite side of the canon as well as above and below it. The house itself was as welcome a sight as any, for it was high noon and we were ready for our luncheon.  After the rooms had been secured and a pretense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:made of removing the dust we had been supposed to gather, but did not, we charged en masse on the dining room, and were not repulsed. The little view we had had of the falls had whetted our appetites for more, and the meal was soon despatched. Carriages were in demand, <illus entity="a028-0053" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Grand Canon, Yellowstone</P>
028.sgm:<P>The teams took you generally to the farthest point first. Three miles down the canon is Inspiration Point. Here you walked down a pretty steep path to a railed-in projecting platform, from which you get a dual view of the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone up and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:down. It is very hard to describe the scene understandingly, or your sensations on beholding it for the first time. The main or lower falls, with its drop of 260 feet, and the cloud of foam at the bottom, the precipitous banks of rocks half a mile in depth, painted by Nature <illus entity="a028-0054" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Lower Falls, Yellowstone Canon</P>
028.sgm:alone with all the colors of the rainbow, the apparently thread-like river following its crooked course between with the blazing noonday sun illuminating everything, made a picture that was simply sublime and grand beyond description.  The bare walls, destitute of foliage, but rich in coloring, stood out in all their majestic beauty, at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0055" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"Eiler"</P>
028.sgm:<P>Just before reaching Inspiration Point the coaches passed a doe with two fawns, that were taking a warm lunch just within the edge of the woods along the drive. They stood obligingly still until several of the kodakers managed to get a snap shot of them. Even then the fawns remained after the doe had been scared off, not knowing that their natural enemy, man, was all around them, but powerless to do them harm in this locality.  Billy Matos and our driver, Brady, had secured horses for a view of the canon, and indulged in some wild gallops on both sides of the canon.  Billy looked real devilish with his spats that he had brought all the way from home for this purpose. Nan Price also secured a mount and was given an enthusiastic send off by her tenderfoot friends as she galloped away astride of her pony.  After returning to the hotel many climbed down the path to the foot of the Upper Falls and derived more inspiration from a view at close quarters.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Bears are also regular boarders on a higher elevation some little distance in the rear of the hotel.  Having viewed the canon all the afternoon, toward evening a demand set in to "see the bears." It was a hard climb up to the feeding grounds, but the crowd lined up there four deep. One old Bruin came out and viewed the crowd occasionally as if to count noses among his enemies and then regained the shelter of the timber. Nearly everybody was upon the hill and Bill Maneely roosted there for three mortal hours until he had to go down or miss his dinner. As soon as he left the bears to the number of eight came out of the woods and partook of their evening meal. Many got a good view of them from the rear windows of the hotel.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0056" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Brink of Yellowstone Falls</P>
028.sgm:<P>Dinner was in demand to-night, the exercise of the afternoon developing good appetites in all hands. To counteract the tendency to indigestion, Eiler called his company out immediately after eating and formed them on the rough ground in front of the hotel. A short drill here called forth a universal kick, and he marched the column around to the rear of the house, where he found a larger space, but one still rougher and overgrown with weeds. Here he put in a half hour's hard work before a select audience of dish-washers, cooks, laundry girls, drivers and stablemen.  There was no chance of our corps gaining one of the prizes in Golden Gate Park later on, but we had secured a choice collection of burrs, dust and a pound or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>When everybody had gathered in the main hall in the evening, they were invited by the Rev. Blackburn, who had preached at the Inn on Sunday night, to listen to a lecture on animal life. He introduced Chief Scout Jones, a government officer of the Park, who intended to tour the country this winter delivering lectures. He must be reserving what he knows about animals for his tour, as he got little further in his discourse to us than the tale of a squirrel he owned when a boy and a thrashing his father gave him some time later on. He was followed by a ventriloquist, who gave a short exhibition of his powers.  Also by others who gave recitations and worked off some antique jokes. Among the latter Theo. Lines got in his work for a couple. These passed the time until about lO.30 P. M., after which the crowd gradually drifted off to rest. except a few stargazers, who lingered outside until a late hour.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Some concern was felt during the early evening for the safety of Doc. Wells, who had gone up the Yellowstone above the rapids to fish.  It was long after dark before be returned, and he had no luck except to lose his way for awhile in the darkness.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0057" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Foot of Yellowstone Falls</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Wednesday, August 31, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>THIS was to be our last day in Yellowstone Park, a fact regretted by all.  Everybody was on hand at an early hour after  a fine night's rest.  For breakfast. this morning we had a whack at the Yellowstone lake trout caught by our two fishermen.  That they had justice done them goes without saying,  and that the possessors of them were envied by the occuPants of the tables who J.id not get any  is  equally true.  Lines had personally superintended the broiling of them and saw that they were done to a turn.  They were relished all the better for the fish yarns interspersed with the chat of the morning meal.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We left Canon Hotel at 9 A. M., stopping for a few minutes just. below the house to have some of the coaches photographed where there was a group of trees for a background. This took up a little of our time, but we only had twelve miles to make to Norris.  We traveled straight down hill from the hotel, only to begin climbing up again. For three miles we had some of the toughest climbing that we had yet undergone over new and heavy roads. Lou Petzoldt and Doc. Shriner concluded to walk a piece up hill to relieve the horses of their coach. While getting down from the box seat Lou slipped and grabbed the doctor, bringing him to the ground and breaking his glasses over his cheek bone. The cut it made was plastered up with antiseptic and their walk was resumed all right.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At the summit of our ride we crossed another divide where an elevation of 8,000 feet was recorded on the mile post.  Pine trees lined the road on both sides for most of the distance. Before we had gone down hill very far we had a fine view of the Virginia Cascade, which formed another beautiful picture to be remembered.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0059" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>No. 2 coach in Yellowstone Park</P>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0060" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Devil's Watch Charm</P>
028.sgm:<P>Squirrels, chipmunks and groundhogs were the largest game in sight to-day, but made up in numbers what they lacked in size. Steam jets began to make their appearance on either side, showing that we were again reaching the geyser regions. Promptly at 11.30 A. M. we again pulled up at the platform at Norris dining station, our usual appetites accompanying us. It was our first this time, and the tables were surrounded at once and sad havoc made with the wholesome viands spread before us.  While we were still eating a party drove up to the station on their way into the Park. Some of the first to finish were more than surprised to find Mayor Weaver in the waiting room in the midst of the new arrivals. As the word spread amongst Mary's people all flocked in to shake hands with His Honor, who was also much surprised to strike a party from his own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The Mayor had been on a tour through Canada and the Northwest, having come in to the Park from Seattle. He was accompanied by Mrs. Weaver, their son Roy Weaver, with Judge and Mrs. Norris S. Barrett. In short order the Mayor was being given a jolly reception by the Mary pilgrims, and no time was lost in decorating the party with Mary pins, which they promised to wear through their Park trip. After the whole crowd had been presented to the Mayor and his party, everybody united in cheering for the Mayor, Mrs. Weaver, the Judge and Mrs. Barrett, and for old Philadelphia. All the other excursionists united in the demonstration to the Chief Executive of the greatest American city.  It was one of the most pleasant incidents of our pilgrimage, and we separated with the best wishes of His Honor for a safe and pleasant tour through the Western country.</P>
028.sgm:<P>More time was then spent in walking over the thin crust between the upper air and perdition before it was time for our coaches to leave. We had to take a last view of the boiling springs and paint pots and inhale sufficient of the sulphur aroma to last awhile. A little after 1 P. M. we commenced our return journey of twenty miles over the same route by which we had entered the Park.  A new zest seemed to be given the trip as scenes looked very different by going the reverse way.  Snow peaks were in sight most of the time, and there seemed to be bigger patches of the white deposit than when we had entered. Some of the rain storms we had encountered had evidently been snow storms in the higher latitudes and left their marks thereon.  It proved a lovely ride, and did not seem at all tiresome.  At the Obsidian Cliff some of the party dismounted and gathered specimens of the porter bottles glass lying in all directions, large quantities of it having been used to make the roads in front of it. Another stop was made at the Apollinaris Spring and its water more freely sampled, some of the party having been a little afraid of it before. The same discontent was expressed that such water should be misused in sprinkling dusty road and not in oiling dry throats. The Golden and Silver Gates and the Hoodoo sentinels were again enjoyed, and the fading sun illuminated the face of Jupiter Terrace in fine shape for us before we drove up to the porch of the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel once more at 4 P. M. and again entered its hospitable doors, that is hospitable at the rate of four dollars per.</P>
028.sgm:<P>A pathetic conclusion to our drive was the giving out of one of the faithful horses, which was so far gone as to be obliged to be unharnessed at the porch of the hotel.  It followed its coach to the barn and suddenly fell dead there five minutes later.  It had bed our faithful servant for nearly 150 miles, and we felt sorry for it as being partly the cause of its demise;</P>
028.sgm:<P>Souvenir hunters and postal card fiends again got busy, as they had at every stop on the route, until 5 P. M., when dinner was announced. This meal was a little on the bum, the managers probably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>We were all glad to get home, as everybody expressed it, but the happiest man on the train was John Robbins, in charge of the commissary car. The six days we had been away were the slowest in his experience. The train had been backed out to Livingston and John had had the time of his life keeping the hundred and odd porters and train hands, sidetracked at that point, from carrying off his refrigerators bodily. He begged us never to leave him so long again. Stump and the other train hands were equally glad to welcome us, and we were glad because all hands were glad.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Before leaving the station we had time to fraternize with our friends from Williamsport and Scranton, who had got in from their camping tour just before us. We had not been able to see much of them in the Park itself. It was 7.20 P. M. before we pulled out and darkness had set in. Livingston was reached at 10 P. M. Here the hungry appetite had developed again and Harry Heist led a rush for the lunch counter for sandwiches and cakes.  While the gang was loading up the train started, and they had the run of their lives to reach the smoking car door, the only vestibule that was open. Eiler, Schuehler, Case, McIntyre and a dozen others developed great sprinting qualities, none of them caring to be left behind at such an out of the way place.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Late into the night the smoker was occupied by the male contingent, discussing the wonders of the Yellowstone and tours to be made in the future as well as sampling the products of Robbins' skill, from which they had been cut off for a week. One thing the Park outing had done for the party, and that was to give them a good coat of tan, They were all in the same boat and bronzed like cowboys. Now that we had got back to the cars we were again prepared to enjoy the variety of bugle calls to which we had been comparative strangers during the past week.  Laudenslager and Petz <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0061" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Three of a Kind</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Thursday, September 1, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>WHEN the morning began to dawn bright, clear and crisp, we just passed Helena, Montana. We were then three hours behind time. The delay was caused by the hoodoo train from Central Pennsylvania that was still ahead of us.  They were held back by an old freight engine that had been worked off on them during the night.  The  country looked well this morning, and it was an agreeable change to find somewhat cultivated and more civilized surroundings for the eye to dwell upon.  At Missoula a short stop was made and we took advantage of it to run up to the tail end of the country train and give them a hot blast for blocking our way, which was received with open derision.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Sir Knight Leeds and Draper, officials of the Northern Pacific, were on our smoker and supplied us with information regarding the country through which we are passing.  A long trestle over which we passed this morning was said to be 260 feet high, and a glance out of the car window sent a shudder through the more timid. It seemed a terrible height for such a frail-looking structure. Gold Creek was an interesting point, as it was here that gold was first discovered in Montana in 1852. It was here also that the last spike was driven in the completed Northern Pacific track on September 8, 1883.  Our road now ran through the Blackfeet Indian Reservation.  The Indians do not seem to be very early risers, as the number we saw was very limited, although there were many farms and farm houses scattered through the Reservation. At a water tank where we halted to fill up the tank, the engineer was found to be a full-blooded Indian, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Invitations had been issued last night after our return for a tea to be given in the dining car by Mrs. Allen and Mrs. Holt. This was supplemented by an invitation from the Executive Committee to assist at a smoker in the smoking car for gentlemen only. By telegraph this morning further invitations were received that nearly broke up the arrangements for the tea and smoker. These were from the Sir Knights of Cataract Commandery, No. 3, of Spokane, Washington, and the Chamber of Commerce of that city to become their <illus entity="a028-0063" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Indian Engineer</P>
028.sgm:<P>Luncheon was advanced a little to be sure to have the party ready when Spokane was reached.  Passing Ponterey Lake and its tributaries, a large lumber trade was developed.  Logs and sawed lumber lined the tracks in immense quantities as we passed.  An occasional red man was seen smoking in stolid indifference to the passing of the train or the salutes fired at him by the occupants. All the morning we were still dragged by the train ahead, and instead of landing in Spokane at 1.45 P. M., we did not reach that point until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>After most of the pilgrims had been introduced to the committee, we were escorted through the pretty station to the street, where open trolleys were waiting to take us on a tour through the city. Spokane has grown in a score of years from a village of 500 people to a city of about 75,000 population. It has developed immense mining interests as well as lumber, fruit, wheat, live stock, wool and sugar. It is the greatest railroad centre west of St. Paul, and has more miles of electric trolleys than any other city of its size in the country.  It has developed 33,000 horse power from the Spokane Falls.  To us it seemed more than a hustling city, where magnificent buildings and pretty homes abounded.  Our ride was first through the residential section, and then through the business part of the city.  Afterward we were taken to a newer suburban section where, from a high hill as a point of vantage, we had a birds-eye view of a large part of the city. Returning again to the business part of the city, we were taken to view the lower falls, from which power is derived and shown how it was utilized. Leaving the high bridge from which we viewed the falls, we were shown some of the magnificent buildings in the heart of the city, including the County Court House, City Hall and High School. The Davenport Cafe was one of the finest to be seen in any city. A particular feature was an archway supported by two round glass columns about eight feet high and ten inches in diameter, filled with water in which numbers of gold fish were swimming. The grill room of the hotel was also visited and found to be unique.  It had been fitted up like an old English kitchen, and great pains had been taken to have everything in the interior to correspond. But our stay was being lengthened out too much, and we were compelled to bid our escorts good-bye with many thanks for their attentions, and returned to the train.</P>
028.sgm:<P>It was nearly 5.30 P. M., and we just returned in time to keep Kid McCoy from swearing.  Another train was ready to pull out and would have liked to start ahead of us and entail more delay for us. As soon as the last comer had boarded the cars we started again on our journey, pushing out for Seattle next day. Upon entering the cars another surprise awaited us in the shape of a basket of fruit for each pilgrim, which had been left on our seats with the compliments of the Spokane Chamber of Commerce. We had given three hearty cheers for our Spokane friends hurriedly as we climbed aboard, and would have liked to given them more for their presents if we had known they were there.  Such peaches, pears, plums and apples we had not had the pleasure of seeing every day, and to a tired and thirsty set of pilgrims, after a three-hours' outing, they certainly tasted delicious.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the lateness of our arrival, it was determined to carry out our original programs for the tea and smoker. The dining car had been tastefully decorated by the hosts and looked quite inviting. The ladies soon doffed their wraps and took possession. As no gentlemen were invited, all that can be said of the affair is that it must have been very enjoyable, judging from the merry peals of laughter and applause which were plainly heard up in front.  The entire male gang was up at the smoker, and it was certainly all right. At the start each man was supplied with a pipe in the form of a skull, a white leather bag filled with tobacco, and the name of the `Frisco Club printed thereon, and a box of matches. Armed in this fashion, everybody smoked, even the very few non-smokers taking a few whiffs to be in the fashion.  Charley Bair was made master of ceremonies and the fun began.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Davy Stewart, as Eminent Commander, was first allowed to tell of the pleasure he felt at being present.  Theo. Lines then told a rattling story and did it so well that the crowd insisted on another. Gregory, who was introduced as a songster, surprised the crowd by breaking out in poetry. Billy Brehm told a story and McIntyre followed with a rollicking Irish tale. Eiler capped it with a German one, and Jem Keller raked out of his pockets some poetry he had been saving up for just such an occasion as this. Case, Musselman, Allen, Judd, Miller, Kessler, Righter, Matlack and others followed in turn, and developed some good story tellers. Few were allowed to escape by the chairman. It was a jolly good time, and when the first call for dinner broke up the fun, it was unanimously agreed that we have another informal smoker when the opportunity offered.  But the chance never came again on this trip.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Relays of passengers had been riding on the engine again to-day, as well as on the upper deck of a caboose that had been hitched on to the rear of the train. These Western railroad men and engineers of a verity can be gallant to the ladies. Dinner was late on account of the events preceding it, and the end of it was later. It was much later when the last night owl had deserted the club car. It had been a day brimful of pleasure from morning until near morning again, and the participants therein rested well.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Friday, September 2, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>MAGNIFICENT sunrise greeted the early risers among the pilgrims  this  morning.  Long before the sun was to be seen the Eastern skies showed over the mountain tops a  beautiful  reddish glow, and the coloring of the rocky landscape was a fine sight.  We reached Ellensburg at 6 A. M., more than four hours   behind time.  We  learned later that a broken draw-head on one of the Scranton Knights' train had delayed them through the night, and consequently us, who were in their rear.  As it was known that Seattle could not possibly he reached on schedule time, breakfast was not hurried.  We were crossing the Sierra Nevadas this morning and the scenery was grand beyond description, although the railroad twisted and turned in great shape.  At 8 A. M. we struck a three-mile long tunnel through some of the mountains.  Much gas pervaded the interior of the train in spite of all precautions taken to close the openings. In a long ride underground like that some was bound to be forced in.</P>
028.sgm:<P>That the party was feeling good was evinced by the general hilarity at the breakfast table, where they halted between mouthfuls to break out into popular songs.  More tunnels succeeded the first one, but none of such length.  Forest fires were plenty around us and much smoke from them made the air hazy.  Mrs. McIntyre whiled away some of her morning hours by setting up a fair on the back of the section facing her.  it was artistically decorated with part of the contents of her basket of fruit, supplemented by what she could cabbage from her neighbors, Jamaica ginger, fans, playing cards, porous plasters, paper napkins and other confectionery.  John Keen managed to take a picture of a portion of it nearest the light.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>After getting across the mountains we had run into a great hop-raising country.  Everyone had hops growing in perfection. Front and back yards, gardens and whole acres of thickly growing and many clustered hops raised all kinds of hope for the future in the breasts of the Anheuser push on the train.  Even to the non- beer drinkers the growing hops were a lovely sight.  By 10 A. M. we were sighting the outskirts of the progressive Western city of Seattle.  The broad expanse of Puget Sound reached out before our gaze and we got the first sight of sailing vessels and steamships we had seen for many days, while the smell of the salt water was pleasant to our nostrils.  The waters of the Sound were being robbed in every direction by having piles driven and then filling in <illus entity="a028-0065" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Mrs. McIntyre's Fair</P>
028.sgm:<P>We were met at the station by a committee from Seattle Commandery No. 2 who got us into line and escorted us to the Hotel Butler. On the way we passed the Alaskan Totem Pole, an evidence of the push of the Seattle citizens who had privately frozen on to it up in the Polar regions and brought away the good genius of some of the Indian tribes.  We understood the United States Government was afterward obliged to make restitution for it.  At the Butler we were all decorated with Seattle badges after being escorted to the reading room and registering our names.  In return we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0066" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Alaskan Totem Pole</P>
028.sgm:<P>One hundred and twenty miles of trolley roads made this easy, and as all roads give free transfers at crossings, rather reasonable also. Billy Brehm thought he would like a carriage, but the demand of the cabbie staggered him and he  also  took  the  trolleys.  When speaking of it later he said, "What do you think that man asked me for an hour's ride?  Why,  four  dollars apiece!  They are first-class robbers here, but they did not catch me. We saw the whole town for forty cents a head."  It transpired later that the cabman had asked four bits apiece. When told this meant only fifty, cents each Brehm nearly fainted.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The low prices at which furs could be brought here had been dinned into our ladies' ears often during the trip,  and they investigated matters here thoroughly and decided that they were no cheaper than at home and not so stylish  in  manufacture. They were almost universally held by gentlemen with hooked noses, and it was evidently not a bargain day for furs with them.  They were on the lookout for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>It is more than interesting to note the late increase in population of Seattle.  At the time of taking the census in 1900 it was credited with 80,000.  In June, 1904, the population had grown to 148,000, an increase almost without parallel. There are three fresh water lakes in the city limits or immediately adjoining. Uncle Sam is now engaged in digging a ship canal to connect two of them with Puget Sound to create a fresh water harbor of nearly fifty squared miles area. When finished Seattle will have the finest harbor in the world.  They have very little snow here and it never freezes, although in about the same latitude as Newfoundland.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Like all Western cities they are harnessing everything in the shape of falls or rapids to create electric power. They have Snoqualmill Falls and the Falls of Puyallup River within twenty-five miles distance and expect when all the plants are completed to develop 60,000 horse power from them.  The city is made up principally of hills more or less steep, some of them rising from 300 to 400 feet. We were all disappointed that our time had been so much shortened here, as we could have used more time to good advantage.  As it was, we had ample opportunity to observe the push and rattle of trade and the strides made in beautifying the city.  However, we stretched our leaving time until 1.45 P. M.  When we started for Tacoma, thirty miles away, but with better motive power than Sheridan's black charger.  As we had to eat our luncheon during that thirty-mile ride, we had but little spare time.  More miles of piling and filling in were traversed and many more hop fields had to be admired while on the road.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At Tacoma we were met by a large delegation from Ivanhoe Commandery. Here we also fell in with McIntyre's brother Charles who had journeyed hither from his ranch to meet Will and his wife. There was certainly an affecting reunion when they came together and all hands came in for a. share of it.   He was another  hale fellow ! well met and was adopted into the Mary tribe for as long a time as we were to remain together.  The Committee placed us at once on trolley cars, first running them around through the fine streets of the city and then started out for a seven-mile run to Point Defiance Park.  On the way we passed many beautiful homes surrounded by magnificent beds of sweet peas, geraniums, canna lilies and other flowers.  Not only were the beds handsome, but the unusually large size of some of the flowers surprised the party. The geraniums grew like small trees and the sweet pea vines were from eight to ten feet high and bore profusely.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The Park is a plot of 640 acres, originally reserved by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>We were then taken around an open air Zoological Garden in the Park, in which were enclosures and cages containing Elk, Deer, Coyotes, Foxes and Monkeys, together with an Eagle, Owls and others of the feathered tribe. While again taking possession of our trolley cars our host, the Superintendent, busied himself in cutting quantities of the roses growing in the beds and presenting them to the ladies through the medium of his little children whom we left none the poorer for this kindness.  As the cars moved off he was the recipient of many cheers none the less hearty from the fact that he was a Pennsylvanian himself. Our ride back to the train was made in quick time, there being no stops to be made.  Immense sawmill plants with piles of lumber galore lined the shore of the Sound in view of our cars on the way back.  Much shipping was also anchored in the harbor and many thousand barrels of flour were being shipped from here ostensibly to China.  No doubt the little Japs ate a goodly share of the bread that was to be baked from it.</P>
028.sgm:<P>It was 6.40 P. M. before we had got back to answer the call for dinner and it was none the less neglected because of lateness. After dinner Charles McIntyre guided the most of the party to a fur and curio store, where they spent some time in looking over the man's stock of the raw material.  Our fraters of Tacoma were also holding a reception at the Masonic Temple, into which nearly every- body drifted before getting back to the train.  As our train was scheduled to leave at 10 P. M., we were obliged to bid our knightly friends an early good-by and start homeward.  Here we found that John Robbins had not forgotten us, but had a big stock of cold lemonade made up, the night being quite warm.  After bidding the new McIntyre good-bye our train pulled out on its trip to Portland. The ladies were not long in seeking their berths to-night, but the male contingent seemed loth to leave the smoker, having much to talk over and being apparently too tired to get ready for bed.</P>
028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Saturday, September 3,1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>WE GOT away from Tacoma last night ahead of  our  hoodoos  and were enabled to make quick time with a clear track.  We crossed the Columbia River on a ferry boat about 2 A. M., but very few were aware of the fact. Some few of those interested in mechanics, like Jake Haines and Ervin Hope, arose and went out to inspect the working of the steamer. We reached Portland at 4.20 A. M. and awoke later on to find our train at a stand-still,  Breakfast was got ready a little earlier than common, as we were due for a trip up the Columbia River by steamer.  In the pleasure of anticipation of a change most of the party got up still earlier than was necessary and, although the morning meal was ahead of time, it seemed a long wait until Livezey announced the "first call for breakfast." The ,unusual stir, of course, routed out those who might have slept an hour or so longer, but there were no complaints.</P>
028.sgm:<P>After breakfast all hands were ordered to stay by the train to be in readiness for special trolleys that were to be sent to convey us to the dock where the steamer Dalles City, which had been especially chartered for the occasion, awaited our coming.  At 9 A. M. we boarded her and made ourselves comfortable for the trip. There being no other passengers or freight on the boat, we had plenty of room. Swinging clear of the wharves and passing through a couple of drawbridges, the stern wheel steamer or "kick-up" ran down the Willamette River, on which Portland lies.  We had a fairly good view of the city from the river, including the buildings now being erected for the Lewis and Clark Exposition, which is to open in the Summer of 1905.  The Columbia University, on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>A little way down the river was an immense dry-dock with a steamer in its embrace.  Just after passing this we met a tug coming up with two immense rafts of timber in tow for some of the mills. We had to call a halt for a little while to enable the tug to swing the tail end of her tow clear of our steamer, there being a large steam dredge at work just ahead.  At the juncture of the Willamette and Columbia a lighthouse stands upon a shoal, one of the spider-legged variety so common down the Chesapeake Bay.  <illus entity="a028-0068" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Going up Columbia River</P>
028.sgm:<P>The monotonous beating of the paddle wheel at the stern and the balmy air created a drowsy feling on the part of a good many of the early risers.  They soon embraced opportunities to lie down on the cushioned seats of the two cabins fore and aft.  Chris Judd, Jimmy Baird, Lew Matlack, Simpson, Herring and Billy Patterson were soon sleeping the sleep of the just and many of the ladies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0069" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Cape Horn</P>
028.sgm:<P>Up the Columbia we passed Fort Vancouver, where Uncle Sam maintains a large army post. Eiler was sorry he had left his khaki suit on the train, as the soldiers were traveling to and fro on shore and sentinels posted in all directions wearing the identical breed, We began to get into the really interesting portion of the river scenery, but our view of it was still much hampered by the smoke. Cape Horn was a bold, rocky headland running perpendicularly up from the water.  On the right hand going up were to be seen numerous waterfalls, some of them dropping from a great height and dashing into spray before reaching the bottom.  Numerous salmon wheels were passed as well as fish pounds, where the salmon are captured by millions.  These wheels are turned by the river current.  They catch the fish as they come up the river on their buckets and turn them over into a net suspended on the upper side.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Luncheon was served on the boat at 11 A. M. and was very much enjoyed.  It was our first experience with Japanese cooks, who proved their skill at their trade. It was a very tasty meal ad no fault could be found with it or the service.  Our usual appetites had been brought along and all enjoyed the luncheon very much.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We had chartered the steamer to go up to and through the Cascade Locks, but ,we found the trip was going to be much slower than we expected and accordingly gave orders to turn about at Warrendale at 1.15 P. M. We wished to see some liNe of Portland City and darkness would have overtaken us on our return if we had gone the limit.  Going down stream we made a little better progress.  The wind had been against us going up, which made the air very pleasant.  Going back the wind was with us and the heat grew oppressive, making us hunt for shade.   Some of the kodakers tried to get pictures of the rocky shores as we drew near them, as well as of a large quarry right on the shore.  We could see by the remains of former drift stuff and the marks of muddy water high up on the banks that the Columbia could be a raging torrent when it got its back up.  Now the stage of water was very low and they had difficulty in poking the boat's nose into the lower stage of a landing to take a can of milk aboard. Real milk it was, too, such as we had for luncheon to-day. It was a change from the diluted condensed article upon which we subsist in the Pullman service.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We retraced our way down the Columbia and up the Willamette, arriving at the wharf at 5 P. M. A remarkable feature of the day's trip was the fact that the steamer burned nothing but crude oil under its boilers. The fire hole looked as clean as a parlor and the oil being fed automatically, the fireman had nothing to do but watch his gauges.  Twenty-five barrels of oil, costing but eighty cents per barrel, sufficed for a day's fuel, so that it is very economical as well as cleanly. No shoveling of coal or ashes, but simply rolling full barrels on in the morning and empty ones off at flight.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Once ashore, many of the pilgrims boarded trolleys for a ride about the city.  Others flew for the stores, which were raided for souvenir spoons, plates and postal cards.  Chinatown was run into on our way up from the dock and the chinks curiously looked over. Simpson got a good snap at a young chink who wondered what he was pointing at him.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 6.30 P. M. nearly everybody was at the station already for dinner, which had been awaiting them. It was learned through the railroad officials that nearly seventy special and regular trains would pass through Portland to-night and to-morrow on their way <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:to the Conclave City. But one had yet departed and that contained Boston Commandery.  By getting Tourist Agent McCoy to work we secured the privilege of going out at 7 P. M. instead of 8.30 P. M., our schedule time, if we could get ready.  Some few stragglers had not yet come in and their arrival was anxiously awaited, as we did not want to get in the rear of any more hoodoo trains that might be on the road.  Five minutes before the allotted time, for which other delegations were also waiting, our delinquents turned up and the word was passed to hook the waiting engine on our train.  Just as we were about to start three Coeur de Lion pilgrims from Charlestown, Mass., who had been left behind by the Boston train, were discovered in the station waiting room looking very disconsolate.  <illus entity="a028-0070" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Young Chink</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Mrs. Baird had been complaining of the lack of bathing accommodations on the train.  Doc Righter found a tin foot bath in Portland this afternoon and brought it aboard as a present to Mrs. B., who made arrangements to treat her car mates on the strength of it.  At 9 P. M. it was brought in filled with lemonade. Together with cakes and candies, it was passed around, and made a merry time of it in the car. Most of the ladies were ready for sleep at an early hour, owing to the unusual combination of salt air and the breezes from the smoking pine forests.  There was also fewer of the night owls on duty in the smoker and, midnight was about the limit for the last of the trombones to play up. <illus entity="a028-0071" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Magnolia Drive</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Sunday, September 4, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>ANOTHER bright and clear Sunday morning greeted our waking eyes.  We are following a mountain stream on an up grade and have two engines in front.  At the first stop we found that were now burning wood which appeared to be the most plentiful object in  sight.  We were making slow progress, however, having only logged 263 miles in 13 hours, but our train crew claimed that we were on time according to schedule. All the morning we were either skirting or crossing the Calapooia Mountains, except when we were going through them. In one section of seven miles we had to pass through eight tunnels and the air in them did not remind any one of Attar of Roses. We were only aware that this was Sunday by looking at our itinerary, as the railroad section men were all hard at work along the line. Chinamen with their yokes across their shoulders, bearing two buckets of water or other burdens, were numerous and picturesque in their bamboo head coverings.  When the section hands would catch sight of Mary's canvas badges on the side of the cars we would be welcomed with a cheer or wave of the hands.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Thousands of cords of wood lined the road in many places,presumably for the use of the engines on this division.  We are now in charge of the Southern Pacific Railroad until we shall reach Los Angeles, the Northern Pacific Road having discharged their duties at Portland  Some of the twists and turns the road makes this morning remind one very much of looping the loop. We could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>After getting down the mountains we found a still finer section of country known as the Rogue River Valley. Peach orchards were numerous before we got down far and fruit of all kinds was raised in great quantities.  Peaches, apples and pears predominated, while plums were also plentiful. Many small towns were scattered along the line of the railroad, but we made no stops except for wood or water. At Grant's Pass at 9.45 A. M. we stopped to change engines. Many people were at the station to see the trains pass to-day, among them one white-haired old Knight who claimed to be a member of Kadosh Commandery of our city.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The conductor we had brought out of Portland had given us a fish story in the smoker this morning to the effect that he knew of and we would pass a place where you could walk across the river upon live salmon swimming at the top of the water. The shouts of derision and the grand chorus with which this statement was received would have abashed anyone but a railroad man.  The conductor never smiled, but said, Wait!  We were running down the course of the Rogue River and the valley showed every evidence of prosperity. Orchards, wheat and alfalfa fields, cane, sheep and horse ranches lined the whole valley. In the river at all still pools we began to see evidence of truth in the conductor's story, as the salmon could be seen jumping in all directions after insects.  At a dam in the river called Gold Ray Dam and near to Gold Hill Station, the salmon below the dam certainly seemed to bear out the yarn we had heard. Their heads were sticking out of the water just below the fall in such numbers as to almost justify the statement that a light-footed person might walk across on them.  Of course there was no excitement on the train, but it was hard to keep some of the crowd on board, as the engineer was running slow to give us a good view.  None of us had ever seen such a sight before ad we backed down to the conductor for all we had said. Our dining car commissary, Livezey, said he had been down here before ad had been told for a fact that you had to get behind a tree to ge$ a bait on your hook or the fish would have it before you could impale it. Many lava beds showed along the banks of the river, being evidence that there must have been a hot time around here at some period of the world's history.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 11.40 A. M. we pulled up to the station platform at Ashland, Oregon, where the whole town seemed to be on hand. As we had a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:stop of twenty minutes the train was soon emptied and the pilgrims were gazing upon a pleasant sight.  A dozen or more very pretty young ladies, dressed all in white and each Wearing a fez with the name of Al Kader Temple of the Mystic Shrine thereon, were busily engaged in making offerings of fruit of all kinds as well as handsome flowers to our pilgrims.  This was being done at the instance of their fathers, the Knights Templar of the city, as well as of the Board of Trade, The task seemed to give them as much pleasure as the reception gave to our ladies.  They were all immediately decorated with Mary souvenirs and had to stand repeatedly for pictures in response to the demands of the kodakers.  Some of <illus entity="a028-0073" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Ashland Girls</P>
028.sgm:<P>Immediately after leaving Ashland Station we began to make more wild curves among the Siskiyou Mountains, equal to any over which we had yet passed. At one point we made a run of seventeen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Luncheon over, the ladies made frequent journeys to the bag- gage car to stow away all unnecessary baggage in the recesses of their trunks which had been already retagged and marked with the number of the, rooms they were to occupy at the San Marco Hotel, which we would reach on the morrow.  It was another busy day for Stump, who realized that there was no rest for the wicked, even on Sunday.  The room numbers had been forwarded to us at Gardner and were received when we came out of the Yellowstone. We had been originally quartered at the Seven Oaks Hotel, but the proprietor thereof, upon being written to for the numbers of our rooms, had unceremoniously thrown us down.  This was less than a month before we started and we had a signed contract with him two years old.  His letter announcing the fact that he would not take us in was as cool and matter-of-fact as if it was an everyday business transaction.  A telegram to the Executive Committee of the Conclave at San Francisco set matters right in a couple of days. They gave us better and more convenient and much pleasanter quarters at the San Marco, much to our relief.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 3.30 P. M. a service of song was improvised in one of the cars under the,leadership of Al Gregory. Quite a congregation gathered and was ushered into pews regardless of ownership or rent payers. Favorite hymns were called for and sung with a will until 4.10 P. M., when some one who glanced out of the window exclaimed "There's Mount Shasta."  The services came to an abrupt close. The mountain had been on our minds all day and we had been anxious to see its snow-covered crown, but fearful lest the hazy atmosphere should spoil our view.  But we were not doomed to disappointment this time, as the peak loomed up in fine shape and the view was a grand one.  In a short time we got a nearer and better view and Mount Shasta continued to ring the changes for us until 5.45 P. M. Owing to the twists and turns of the.road we had it now on one side and then on the other. Occasionally out of sight because dead ahead or directly astern, but the same grand o!d picture whenever it came in sight.  The snow which covered it in huge patches had apparently no intention of ever melting.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We now have an oil-burning engine for a change and miss our showers of fireworks which have been changed to black smoke, which is not so heavy as is caused by the Pennsylvania's soft coal. We are still in cahoots with the engineers and have relays riding on the engine. They have a fine view of Mount Shasta from there and enjoy the novelty every much.  At 6.30 P. M. we pulled up at the station at Sisson, where are located the Mt. Shasta Springs.  It is said that these belong to the President of the Southern Pacific <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>As the party filed into the diner to-night Livezey produced a huge bunch of telegrams, one of which was addressed to each pilgrim on the train. The telegrams were, all on the proper Western Union blank, signed by our frater and friend, Judge Milligan, now Grand Senior Warden of Pennsylvania.  At the top of each was the Judge's picture with the smile that seldom comes off and the wording was as follows:  "With pleasant recollections of Mary Commandery's joyous welcome at the Golden Gate in 1892, I wish for you and accompanying pilgrims the same cordial and fraternal greeting. May your stay in the Conclave City be as interesting and as full of happy moments as was ours twelve years ago. See Chinatown and add to your knowledge." On the reverse side were printed the menu for to-night's dinner, which was an evidence that the telegrams had not come through the regular channel. We were unable to gain any further information about them except that they had been handed to Livezey at the station.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Conversation to-night drifted largely onto the pleasures expected in San Francisco during the next four days and all resolved at least to follow Milligan's advice and see Chinatown. It was not a late night, as the day had been quite a strenuous one, although nominally one of rest.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Monday, September 5, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>HIS morning was one of great expectations as we looked forward to four days of unalloyed pleasure.  Our train did not pull into Oakland Station until 7 A. M. Breakfast had been hurried forward and the first half had got through the meal and had their personal belongings in hand ready to land.  Some little time was consumed in transferring the baggage to trucks, but not sufficient to enable all the second half to get through with their meal when, without any notice, an engine was hooked onto the rear of the train and ran the cars out several miles into the car yards.  It was necessary to keep the incoming track clear, as trains were constantly arriving from all directions.  There was a committee present from Golden Gate Commandery who used all kinds of persuasion in addition to our own to have our pilgrims brought back so that we could cross the ferry.  Every minute we had the promise of an engine to be sent for them, but were as often disappointed. It was a most tedious hour of waiting before our prayers were granted and the delayed contingent restored to us.  What their arguments, prayers and objurgations were at the other end of the line must have been something alarming from all accounts.</P>
028.sgm:<P>All hands were held together until they arrived and boarded the enormous ferryboat at 8.15 A. M.  Twenty of the Sir Knights had donned their uniforms to be escorted to the hotel.  They took their stations on the lower deck of the steamer, while the remainder of the pilgrims were installed in the palatial cabins of the upper deck. The ride across the bay was very pleasant.  The air was just cool enough for the ladies to wear light wraps and fine for those who marched.  All kinds of craft were at anchor in or speeding across the bay, among which were several of Uncle Sam's warships. When the Union ferry depot at the foot of Market street was reached the uniformed squad was mustered on the forward deck and received a salute from the ladies above.  When the boat landed they were marched through the depot to the street, where was drawn up an escort of about one hundred men from Golden Gate Commandery, who stood in open order and presented swords as our little party <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The San Marco was found to be a fine headquarters, centrally located and more than comfortable in the matter of good rooms and bath attachments.  In the meantime the balance of the party had been loaded on special trolleys in waiting and expected to reach the <illus entity="a028-0076" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>San Francisco Trolley</P>
028.sgm:<P>The baggage had got to the front pavement ahead of everybody. Before half of it had been taken upstairs the elevator went on a strike and the porters were non-plussed for a means to get the balance to the rooms. They did not relish the idea of carrying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>There had been as yet no arrangement made for our meals. The Seven Oaks Hotel had been engaged on the American plan and the San Marco was run upon the European plan. There was a restaurant upon the first floor of the building, however, and after some dickering the Committee was able to make arrangements with the proprietor for our meals. We found a part of Kadosh Commandery also rooming at the San Marco, while more of them were located around the corner on Post street.  Some of their ladies who were in the vestibule seemed more than astonished when Mrs. Allen walked into the big hotel and greeted her very effusively and pointed her out to some who did not know her.  An explanation of this followed a little later when some of them told McIntyre that it had been currently reported all the way down from Portland to Los Angeles that Mrs. Allen had died in the Yellowstone and that they had unwittingly written home to that effect four or five days before when they had heard the report.  It became necessary to head this report off by telegraphing to Philadelphia to her family at once that we had arrived safely at San Francisco with all well.</P>
028.sgm:<P>While Chairman Allen was in the telegraph office he saw a messenger boy about to start out with a telegram for Theo. Lines which he took charge of and promised to deliver at once, Returning to the San Marco he handed it to Lines, who finished reading a letter he was perusing before opening the telegram. When he did so he reeled and fell as if struck by lightning. He was raised and placed upon a seat, where his emotion became heartrending.  It was then found that the dispatch announced the accidental death of a favorite son who had. unfortunately shot himself while on a gunning expedition down in Maine.  The letter he had been reading had been written to him by this same son and the reading of it was followed immediately by that of the telegram announcing his death.  Of course arrangements had to be made for himself and Mrs. Lines to return to Brooklyn by the first train. This was not accomplished for some little time, although McCoy made every effort in his behalf, as it was, impossible to get sleeper accommodations on any train until evening. We were thus deprived of two of our most pleasant members and a gloom cast over the entire party.  They had been delightful traveling companions, and Theo. Lines was ever genial and always ready to lend his aid in making things pleasant for all. </P>
028.sgm:<P>Labor and its parade interfered very seriously with the working <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The first sight of the handsome bathroom accommodations attached to each room was a most welcome one and begat an instantaneous desire on everybody's part to make use of them.  The accumulations of a couple of weeks had to be gotten rid of and the sound of running water filled the air, but the resources of the water company were equal to the occasion and there was no scarcity.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The pilgrims lost no time after getting their first meal in starting upon their sight-seeing trips.  Some took carriages  and  rode around to inspect the buildings down town and the elaborate Templar decorations which were displayed in every direction.  Others took the ordinary cable cars, while some secured the observation cars of which a specialty seems to be made in all the Western cities. Those who went out to the Cliff House and Seal Rocks had a unique experience in addition to the ordinary attractions of the place. Thousands of people had gathered there of whom the majority were visiting Templars and their ladies. A schooner had been run onto the beach in a fog during the previous evening.  The crew of the United States Life Saving Station were assisting the crew of the vessel in trying to work her off the shore.  While the work was going on another heavy fog rolled in from the ocean and in an incredibly short time the warm and sultry air that had characterized the afternoon had given way to a cool air that made light overcoats extremely desirable and comfortable.  Many of the San Francisco ladies, who were accustomed to the lightning changes of the climate, had come prepared with furs which they donned and found very comfortable. The fog in a few minutes hid the stranded vessel and the operation of getting her afloat could no longer be witnessed.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The Sutro Baths, probably the largest and finest bathing establishment in the world, also came in for a share of admiration by the large number of visitors, many Of whom tOok advantage of an opportunity to enjoy a bath in the waters of the Pacific Ocean. The handsome statuary and beautiful flowers and plants of the Sutro Garden were another source of pleasure to the assembled crowds. In another direction, Chinatown with its curious inhabitants, who could not be divided as to sex because you could not tell one from the other by their dress, its odd and in many cases finely stocked stores, its conglomeration of old barracks, iron and wooden balconies and varied assortment of ill-smelling localities, was crowded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>By 6 P. M. the majority Of the sight-seers had returned to the hotel for dinner and to make Preparations to attend some of the numerous receptions to be held during the evening.  One of these was to be given by the Grand Commandery of Pennsylvania at the Palace Hotel,  Mary had been requested to contribute eight ladies to assist at the ceremonies.  Mrs. Allen, Mrs. Stewart, Mrs. Bair, Mrs. Holt, Mrs. Ray, Miss Heist, Mrs. Henderson and Mrs. Hinckle had been detailed for that purpose and all the others resolved to attend the reception for the honor of the old Keystone State. The attendance thereat was exceedingly large and for four hours the crowds in the corridors of the hotel advanced only by inches, while many turned and worked their way back, despairing of ever getting into the reception parlors. Once inside there was a beautiful picture in the line of Grand Officers and their ladies, who were holding up <illus entity="a028-0077" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Entrance to Sutro Baths</P>
028.sgm:<P>Other receptions were afterward attended, notably that of Fresno Commandery at Pythian Hall.  Here we looked in vain for any of the Sir Knights who had extended the whole-souled hospitality of their city to us twelve years ago.  While their reception <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The crowd of people upon Market and the adjacent streets was simply phenomenal. On both sides the sidewalks were solidly filled and the lines extended nearly as far into the street on either side.  The people of the city, as well as the visitors, turned out en masse, to witness the electrical display.  Too much cannot be said in praise of the beauty and costliness of this. No city of this country ever undertook to illuminate on such a gigantic scale and never before were such lavish decorations erected.  The citizens in general, as well as the Sir Knights, contributed liberally to the display. Electric lights were not to be noted by the hundred, but by thousands and tens of thousands.  Oh Market street, from the ferry building for a distance of, two and a half miles up, it seemed as though the street was roofed in with a canopy of electric lights and the street was made as bright as by daylight. Every business house, office building and hotel on this main thoroughfare was finely decorated with Templar colors, Templar and other Masonic emblems, all beautifully lined out with colored bulbs  It was a knightly welcome from the California Templars to their fraters from all parts of the country and was appreciated and applauded to the echo.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The ferry building at the foot of Market street was resplendent with thousands of green lights which cleverly outlined the high tower and front of the building. On the tower, and visible from all parts of the city, was a huge Maltese cross of red lights.  From this ferry depot, where the general scheme of illuminations began, the scene was a brilliant one.  Facing it the first thing to attract attention was the word Welcome in lights stretched across the wide street. On either side, about thirty feet apart, were towering white masts, each bearing several dozen of American flags cleverly arranged. From these masts strings of lights were artistically draped across the street.  The Masonic Temple further up and just off Market street was ablaze with illuminated Masonic and Templar designs, representing the Blue Lodge, Chapter, Templar and Consistory branches of the Order.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At the intersection of Market, Geary and Kearney streets was suspended an imposing illumination containing more than 8000 lights.  This design was in the shape of an immense bell built of wrought iron. The lower rim alone is said to have weighed eight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:tons and was forty feet in diameter. Strings of lights radiated from this to the centre far overhead, forming the lines of the bell. In the centre of the apex was a large Maltese cross in various colored lights. Below, suspended in the mouth of the bell, was a huge red passion cross and crown with the motto "In hoc signo vinces." Around the inside and outside of the lower rim were many other emblems in colors of every variety. It was one of the handsomest and costliest decorations ever erected. A Court of Honor, constructed of white columns, festooned with the National and Templar colors, extended along Market street for some distance on either side of the bell. Similar bell effects, but not so elaborate in construction, were to be <illus entity="a028-0078" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>San Francisco Electric Design</P>
028.sgm:<P>It was late to-night, near morning in fact, before Mary's tired and weary "pilgrims" reached their hotel after attending receptions and viewing the decorations and crowds upon the streets.  Still some of the male contingent were not satisfied and formed a party to see Chinatown after the midnight hour had struck. The services of the king of the guides were secured and for three hours the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0079" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Ashland Girls</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Tuesday, September 6, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>THIS was a bright and clear a morning, but it had got warm during the night, contrary to the usual habits of the brand of weather handed out in S an  Francisco.  We were accused repeatedly by the natives, during the next few days, of having brought the unusual temperature with us from the East. Judging from the determined manner with which it followed us around, after leaving Yellowstone Park, there might seem to be some foundation for the charge.  With but four exceptions Mary's remaining pilgrims were early at the breakfast table this morning. These were Maneely and his wife, who had gone to stay with a sister who was resident here, and Judd and Matos who never woke up until the strains of the band, which preceded the Commandery in the Triennial Parade, were heard in the street below.  By the time they had got up and dressed the boys were off and the laggards were forced to follow to their place in line.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At the breakfast table a pleasant surprise was sprung on every-body by the presentation to each one of a handsome souvenir card bearing the counterfeit presentment of Capt. Eiler as Adjutant and Drill Master of Mary Commandery No. 36, K. T., with the familiar words, "Fall in, Sir Knights," printed below.  At the top of the cards were "the National and Philadelphia city colors embossed in colors and in the lower left-hand corner the date September 6th, 1904. The souvenir evidently came from home from some one who desired the Captain and his men to give a good account of themselves in the gathering of the hosts to-day.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The sword and banner cases in the basement of the hotel were opened at an early hour and, as soon as breakfast was over, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0081" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>P. E. SIR GEORGE EILER, JR. ADJUTANT AND DRILLMASTER MARY COMMANDERY No. 36, K. T., PENNSYLVANIA</P>
028.sgm:<P>Seats had been secured for some of our ladies upon one of the grand-stands on Van Ness avenue and several of the Mary guidons were entrusted to their care, with which they promised to salute and cheer on the command when it should reach their station. Be it said right here that they kept their promise in grand style, although suffering intensely with the heat and the rough accommodations all the time. As the parade was not to start until 10 A. M. and would probably not reach the stand until after 12 M., the ladies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The two sound sleepers were just able to catch the command before it took its place in the line of parade.  Mary was fortunate in having been able to secure a band, as many Commanderies were obliged to parade without.  Pennsylvania had the honor of being the only State, outside of California, that was assigned a division of its own.  It was the Fifth and, according to all reports of the press and spectators, Pennsylvania made a fine showing in line. Following Grand Commander Fleming and his staff came Corinthian Chasseur Commandery on black horses, as escort, and the following <illus entity="a028-0082" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The Grand Commander's Aid</P>
028.sgm:commands on foot in the order named: Pittsburg No. 1, of Pittsburg; De Molay No. 9, of Reading; Pilgrim No. 11, of Harrisburg; Northern No. 16, of Towanda; Coeur de Lion No. 17, of Scranton; Allen No. 20, of Allentown; Baldwin 2d No. 22, of Williamsport; Kadosh No. 29, of Philadelphia; Allegheny No. 35, of Allegheny City; Mary No. 36, of Philadelphia; Reading No. 42, of Reading; Tancred No. 49, of Pittsburg; Melita No. 68, of Scranton, and Mt. Vernon No. 73, of Hazelton.  Beside these a number of other commands were represented by individual members who paraded with other organizations. It was a creditable showing for a State three thousand miles away and Grand Commander Fleming had a right to be proud of his following. The parade was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>From a spectacular point of view the parade was a great success and according to press reports there were about 12,000 men in line, but these are always subject to be freely discounted.  At the head of the column rode our old acquaintance, Grand Captain General Chas. L. Field, as chief marshal, with his staff, followed by 600 mounted Templars of California Commandery No. 1, all on black horses.  They made a grand sight in their showy uniforms and black velvet cape and acted as escort to Most Eminent Sir Henry Bates Stoddard, Grand Master of the Grand Encampment of the United States, and the Most Eminent the Earl of Euston, Grand Master of the Great Priory of England, who was officially representing King Edward of England at the Conclave.  Golden Gate Commandery No. 16, which also had a mounted division, followed the carriages containing other representatives of the King of England and the Officers of the Grand Encampment.  The fraters of Boston Commandery No. 1, of Massachusetts, whom we had met in the Yellowstone and who had brought their band from Boston, marched to the place of formation this morning and then marched back to their hotel.  They were entitled by age and number to the right of the line of their State division and found a younger commandery occupying that position.  The Marshal of the division refused to grant them the coveted place and the Grand Marshal refused to interfere, so Boston declined to parade, but had a parade of their own a day or two later.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Everywhere along the line of march Mary's Sir Knights, forty strong and most generally in two divisions, were accorded rounds of applause and thousands of people, seeing the name upon !he banner and guidons, cheered for Mary continuously.  Capt. Eiler drilled his command along the entire route and made a fine showing, being himself almost overcome at the end of the parade by his own exertions.  Passing the grand stand where the Mary ladies were seated, they were given an enthusiastic reception by them which spread to the other occupants of the stand as well as to the crowds on the street.  As they passed in review before the Grand Master and the Earl of Euston it is safe to say that they presented a very creditable appearance so far as military bearing was concerned.</P>
028.sgm:<P>It was after 1 P. M. and Mary's Knights, despite the weather, kept their place in line until the entire column had passed.  Then the Commandery marched back to the San Marco, hot, tired, dusty, thirsty and hungry, with the usual number of Knights declaring, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Reference must be made here to the boundless hospitality that had been extended to us by the Grand Commandery of California. Just after reaching the hotel yesterday we had been presented with a program of the amusements and entertainments set down for us for the entire week, together with invitations to the same, with which were included car and railroad tickets, tickets for the Chinese play going on at the Opera House, excursions on the steamers on the bay, also across the bay and up Mt. Tamalpais.  There were so many of these diversions that no pilgrim could find time to take them all in during the four short days we had allotted for our stay in this city.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Carriage rides, trolley rides to the Cliff House, Sutro Baths, Golden Gate Park and the military reservation at the Presidio were indulged in during the rest of the afternoon by some. Chinatown of course had its full share of devotees and some who made excursions on the Bay steamers crowded to the rails declared the heat to be greater on the water than it was on shore. An old-fashioned hot wave, with which our people were all more or less familiar, was sweeping over this section of the country and the natives were experiencing the hottest weather known to the records of the local weather bureau and had the promise of more to come. Under pressure of the heat our pilgrims tried to find places where ice cream or cold soda water might be purchased.  Such commodities are evidently not staple articles, as at home, as there was little to be had in the city unless specially ordered.  Still they did not suffer a great deal from the heat, as the air was dry and caused little perspiration.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The packages that came in with the crowd at dinner time to- night from various shopping expeditions would almost have served to start a country store, and when several large packing cases arrived by wagon the assortment seemed almost complete. It began to look as though the train had better be provided with a flexible baggage car.  It did not get any cooler toward evening as is usual in this climate, but the heat continued straight ahead into the night.  The service in the restaurant had improved to-day and it was possible to get a meal in about the usual hotel time,  After dinner everybody was off downtown again.  Receptions without number were again in progress, but the principal attractions were the open houses of the California State Commanderies. The Grand Master held a reception at the Palace Hotel, as did our fraters of Pittsburg No. 1.  Many of Mary's members had plenty of friends in No. 1 and there were many pleasant reunions at their reception. The throng of last night was repeated in the hotel corridors and the approaches thereto, while locomotion was just as difficult.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>On Market street the jam was worse than ever.  Every vehicle on wheels had been pressed into service, from express wagons and trucks up, and were loaded down with sightseers. It was impossible to secure a carriage for love or money and most of the visits had to be paid on foot. At all the California headquarters fruits, wine and grapes were to be had in unlimited quantities, and Fresno was furnishing all callers with neat badges and pressed boxes of seedless raisins. The electric illuminations lost none of their grandeur or beauty through repetition and were a constant marvel to the beholder. Golden Gate's reception or open house deserves more than passing notice.  Their building was finely illuminated on the front with huge electrical devices.  Back of the reception rooms on the main floor was a large ballroom for dancing, where an orchestra was constantly providing music for that diversion.  Up stairs were many tables with. seats for from four to eight persons, where you could sit comfortably, call for and enjoy any of the refreshments provided.  Plenty of waiters made this possible for large crowds.  Our visit there was made memorable by the kindness of Sir Knight Cornelius Toohey, of Golden Gate, who was one of those publicly decorated by the Earl of Euston for activity on escort duty, along with our old acquaintance, Billy Edwards, of the same command.</P>
028.sgm:<P>It was well on to midnight before any of the party returned to the hotel, although it had been a hard day on everybody.  The heat continued through the night and open windows were necessary to make the rooms comfortable.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Wednesday, September 7, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>HOT Hotter!! Hottest!! Thus the weather might be truthfully described since our advent in the conclave City. Our enjoyment of our time in `Frisco, outside of the weather,  was  perfect. The night had been hot and close all through, a thing unprecedented in the weather annals, and the  weather  forecast this morning was for a continuation of the heat. In  this  the  Western forecaster excelled his Philadelphia brother in that his prediction not only came true, but the weather he furnished was a record-breaker. Still the pilgrims were early on deck as usual, notwithstanding they had retired late and tired.  The ladies seemed to be standing the strain as well if not better than the men. Quite a number of them were nearly exhausted last night between sight-seeing, shopping and long walks in the evening, but they turned out this morning looking as fresh as roses in June. Everyone seemed determined not to lose a minute, except the time spent in trying to get meals, and to see all that was to be seen.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 7 A. M. when we assembled for breakfast the thermometer stood at 85.  The morning was perfectly clear and it was apparent to all when the sun showed himself over the mountains across the bay that he meant business.  By 2 P. M. the mercury had risen above the century mark.  It was the general impression among the resident San Franciscans that the city was in for some earthquake shocks, which they say are pretty sure to follow a hot spell.  But they did not materialize during the balance of our stay.  If they had, we should have probably put them down on the list among the other entertainments provided by our hosts.  It sounded rather comical to us to hear some of the lady residents say that they much preferred an earthquake to a thunder storm, which they rarely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The big feature of to-day was the competitive drill held in Golden Gate Park for the magnificent prizes offered by the California fraters, who took no part in the competition, although giving exhibition drills. Some of the pilgrims went out there with the idea <illus entity="a028-0084" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Strawberry Lake, Golden Gate Park</P>
028.sgm:that cool breezes might be found in the Park.  In this they were disappointed, but they enjoyed a fine treat in the drills and the sight of the 25,000 people who congregated to witness them. For nearly four hours the drills continued and the prize winners were certainly entitled to all they received, including the glory.  When Louisville Commandery. marched onto the field they were met by a score of Southern ladies who waved their colors of black and red before them and scattered innumerable flowers in their path.  Whether this spurred them on is uncertain, but it was certain that they captured the first prize.  It was also certain that when they returned to their quarters victorious every one of the girls had to be kissed twenty-nine times, that being the number of the squad. The judges <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Louisville Commandery No. 2, of Louisville, was finally awarded the first prize of a massive punch set of beaten copper, finely inlaid <illus entity="a028-0085" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Allen's Chair</P>
028.sgm:with gold and silver.  St. Bernard No. 35, of Chicago, took the second prize, a silver fortress, surmounted by a world sphere, which in turn supported the figure of a Knight Templar. The third prize was awarded to Ivanhoe No. 24, of Milwaukee, and consisted of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The luncheon hour brought most of the pilgrims together again, only to see them scatter again for the afternoon. Each lady found awaiting her a basket containing much fruit and a small bottle of wine as a present from California Commandery No. 1. The ladies of Kadosh and some who were staying there as members of a Vermont delegation were treated in a similar manner.  All the ladies had also been provided with cards which entitled them to a handsome souvenir plate from Pittsburg Commandery No. 1, when presented at their headquarters at the California Hotel. They were not slow in availing themselves of the privilege or in endeavoring to secure an extra one for some friend at home.</P>
028.sgm:<P>There was a grand ball given by California Commandery No. 1 this evening at the Mechanics' Pavilion, which had been magnificently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>There was also a Ladies' Reception at the Palace Hotel, which had pretty nearly as many callers. As on previous evenings Market and adjacent streets were black with people, who were again viewing the illuminations and were all still charmed by the dazzling scene. Nothing was heard except expressions of admiration and satisfaction that we were on the spot to behold such a sight or regret that no picture of the same could be had to do it justice.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Upon returning to the hotel, many of the pilgrims found in their last batch of mail the notice of the meeting of Mary Commandery, containing orders to report at 7 o'clock to-morrow night in the Asylum.  Recorder McCune had mailed them just in time and received in return a telegram to be read in the Commandery at its meeting extending the knightly greetings of the Officers and Sir Knights who were representing them at the other side of the Continent.  There were few of the pilgrims who had any desire to prolong the night's labors far beyond the midnight hour. It had been a long day, a busy day and a hot day, but withal a most pleasant day and evening.</P>
028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Thursday, September 8, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>ANOTHER  hot  morning greeted the awakening pilgrims this morning.  But there was no disposition to fret on account of the weather.  That was only an incident of the trip and taken in as a necessary part of it.  As soon as breakfast had been disposed of the entire party was again in motion.  This was the last chance for shopping in the Conclave City and its devotees were numerous, although there was a number who had left the bay trips for to-day as well as excursions on the Key route.  For a ten-dollar bill you could secure a special trolley car that would be switched for you over all the lines in town and give a good general idea of San Francisco and its surroundings.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Not all of the ladies had yet secured their Pittsburg souvenir plates and it remained for Billy Matos and Chairman Allen to gather up the unused tickets this morning and carry several pounds of chinaware from the California Hotel to the San Marco. By a lucky meeting with Herman Junker and his fellow-committeeman, Earley, they were enabled to make some addition to the stock for a few of the regulars who had been unable to get with us on this pilgrimage.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Several instances were seen on the street this morning of the extent to which the trade unions abuse their power in this city. In front of a large store at one point and a livery stable at another, a man was marching up and down the sidewalk bearing aloft a huge placard on a pole containing a warning not to patronize the party inside, as he was "unfair." That such things could be done without any interference from the police force seemed strange to us from the East, but attracted little attention here. By the way, the police <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Chinatown was again invaded in force this morning. McIntyre and John Keen had a great time inducing one of Sing bat's chinks, who had sold them the chair yesterday, to redeem his promise to go up to the hotel and pack the chair for shipment.  They had him coralled several times as they thought, but he managed to give them the slip every time.  It was only after Mac raised a regular Irish row in the store and invoked the aid of the police that the Chinaman went along with them and performed the promised duty and did it in good shape.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Luncheon as usual found pretty much all hands back at the hotel and they began to show signs of the strenuous time they had had for four days by lingering longer over their midday meal, Before leaving the hotel again it was necessary for all baggage to be packed to give the porters a chance to get it down to the street during the afternoon. This was not as easy a matter as it sounds, because of the additional room that had to be made for souvenirs without end.  In the absence of elastic trunks various trials and retrials had to be made until the obstinate packages would take the required shape and close enough to allow the trunk lid to come down close enough for the man to sit upon it until it was locked. Some had already bought additional telescopes and suit cases, and even sent packing cases to the hotel to go with our baggage, so that our departure required one more wagon load than our advent.  Of course the Commissary had some boxes of his own to look after, which he was specially interested in seeing carefully loaded.  The reasons for this we were to learn later in the day.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The afternoon was again utilized by some of the sightseers who made a trip to the University of California, where the Officers of that institution had been giving continual receptions to the visiting Sir Knights and ladies.  Six o'clock was the dinner hour and it found everyone on hand for the farewell meal at the San Marco. Dinner over, there was no disposition to wander forth again, although the hour of departure from the Third street station was not fixed until 11.59 P. M.  This was further evidence that the best possible use had been made of our four days' visit. All hands were more than tired, but happy in their experience of the Conclave City and its hospital people. Among the last evidence of good feeling for Mary was a large case of the boxes of raisins from Fresno Commandery sent to the hotel this afternoon for distribution among the ladies. The latter were mostly content to occupy the chairs in the reading room this evening, some few engaged in writing farewell letters from `Frisco, while the Knights lounged around out of doors trying to keep cool.  They finally drifted away in squads for the station until by 10 P. M. the last batch had left on the trolleys.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>They soon came together again at the depot of the Southern Pacific, where they had to while away another hour or more. Several other trains were scheduled ahead of our time and they could not back our train in until some of the others got away.  Meanwhile we were enjoying a most unearthly smell for than length of time. Where it came from or what caused it none of the railroad people could or would tell us. If we had still been in the Yellowstone we might have supposed that the Mud Volcano had undergone another eruption.</P>
028.sgm:<P>About 10.30 P. M. Commissary McIntyre, who had located our club car and made some inquiries of John, learned that the express wagons after unloading the baggage had gone off with the boxes of which he had been so especially careful. When asked what was in them, Mac answered, salt.  You know our supply of salt had run out and we must have plenty of that commodity.  There was telephoning in hot haste and as is usual when the phone is badly wanted it was not answered. Mac and John at once boarded a trolley car and went back into town to try and locate the expressman. They reached his office only to find it closed tightly.  Going across the street to inquire for his residence, they accidentally stumbled upon the man himself and dragged him away uptown to his stable. There the wagon was found with the nine boxes safely reposing under the high front seat where they had been so carefully stowed away.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Of course a dozen other wagons had to be moved to get that one out and the Commissary and his assistant had to pitch in and help. Then the boss told them to get back to the station on the cars and he would see that the wagon followed. But Mac was taking no more chances and he and John stuck to the wagon and the salt until they were landed at the depot.  Once arrived, volunteers were called for and nine stalwart Knights each seized a case of salt and marched like a gang of stevedores into the station.  Here they deposited their loads and were forced to mount guard over them as an attempt was made by some of our Reading fraters, whose train was sidetracked opposite us, to secure a couple of cases for ballast, in which their train was deficient. Thus the Commissary worked his passage out of San Francisco, from which he departed in a much happier frame of mind than he had gone uptown in a couple of hours before.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Promptly at one minute before midnight our special pulled out from the station and our too short. but happy and instructive stay in the Conclave City had come to an end. All our knights and ladies went away delighted with the reception that had been accorded them by our hosts, the Knights Templar of California, and !he citizens of San Francisco generally. Nothing but pleasant memories survived aomng us of the Twenty-ninth Triennial Conclave of the Grand Encampment of Knights Templar of the United States.  A jovial celebration of the event, as well as the return to the comforts and conveniences of the Commissary car, was kept up in that noisy place until a late or rather early hour.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Friday, September 9, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>WE HAD only a fifty-mile run during the night and awoke this morning to find ourselves  sidetracked at the city of San Jos&eacute;.  This stop was not down on our itinerary, but was necessary to reach the Big Trees which had been included as one of the sights of our  journey.  It  gas pleasant weather early this morning and a number of the early  rises took a walk up into the heart of the city, which looks pretty much as it did twelve years ago.  The few people on deck at the early hour seemed to all belong to the market houses and fruit stores, apparently the only open doors in town, where fruits and vegetables rioted in size and quantity.  St. James Park on our way seemed to be a new fixture in the town. A beautiful feature in it was a fine monument to the late President McKinley. The park is adorned with many towering palms and other semi-tropical plants.</P>
028.sgm:<P>As a health resort this city is very much noted, the temperature in Summer rarely going above 90 degrees.  Humidity is an unknown quantity and the nights are invariably cool and pleasant Many residents of San Francisco have their Summer habitation here and journey to and fro to attend to business.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Breakfast had been advanced to 6.30 A. M. to have us ready in time for the Narrow Gauge train that was scheduled to take us up the mountains at 8.15 A. M.  All the party were up early, although retiring so late. At this stage of our journey it is surprising with what rapidity they recover from the fatigue of the preceding day.  Eighteen hours constitute a day for most of us, while some strove their best to make it twenty.  Ervin Hope is the oldest man in the party and the first on deck every day, next to the cooks in the dining car.  But he is too old a bird to use up his day at both <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0088" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Park, San Jose</P>
028.sgm:<P>At the appointed hour our train was run to the Narrow Gauge depot, where a special train of four cars was boarded for a trip to the Big Tree Grove.  We were soon running up the Santa Clara Valley, with its thousands of orchards and vineyards, toward the Santa Cruz mountains.  Dark streaks, about a yard wide, on the ground on either side of the train proved to be prunes drying in the sun on wire frames.  There were miles upon miles of them and there seemed to be enough prunes to supply the world. The weather got extremely hot before we were long on the road and there was considerable dust also.  Several tunnels, in which the locomotive developed a bad breath, also contributed to make the pilgrims uncomfortable before the Big Tree Station was reached.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Going up the mountains through the timber and beside a running mountain stream, with a great deal of romantic scenery to be admired, made the trip a good deal more endurable, although we were glad to escape from the cars as soon as we arrived at 10.30 A. M.  Proceeding at once into the grove, the services of a guide were enlisted and the tour of the Big Trees commenced.  They are known scientifically as the Sequoia Sempervirens and are in massiveness second only to the Sequoias of the Sierras in Yosemite Valley. In the hollow trunk of one of the first trees we stopped at Bill Maneely and nineteen lesser pilgrims concealed themselves.  On a <illus entity="a028-0089" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Eiler's Morning Drill, San Jose</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Some of the trees are certainly remarkable for height and girth, being over three hundred feet in height and upwards of sixty feet in circumference. As to age some of the stumps show by their rings an age of four thousand years.  Having been late in our arrival, our time was necessarily cut somewhat short, although we might have made it longer if we had known of a subsequent delay to which we were to be subjected.  On our return trip we were held up at Los Gatos Station, a sort of picnic ground to which the people of San Jose resort.  Here an excursion of Foresters, who were celebrating Admission Day, the anniversary of the day upon which California was admitted to the Union, was arriving in several sections, compelling us to wait until all had arrived.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-00990" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Big Trees, Santa Cruz Mountains</P>
028.sgm:<P>Meanwhile the weather was growing hotter and the mercury in the cars was rapidly nearing the century mark.  The enforced wait naturally made it seem still hotter.  At last we were able to secure a clear track and began the run down the mountains more rapidly than we had come up. The motion of the train made some breeze and it became more bearable.  We did not get back to San Jos&eacute;, from which we were to start for Del Monte, until 1.30 P. M. W hen we had again boarded our own train and John announced that he had plenty of cold lemonade ready for use, there was a unanimous rush for first aid to the heated.  That was only one time that the ladies returned heartfelt thanks to John. Neither was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Our way laid mostly through an uninteresting country until 2.30 P. M., when we got near to the coast and struck a most welcome cool wave. In a short time after the ocean came into view and we enjoyed fine breezes, everybody drinking them in as a most welcome change.  Still later fogs began to gather along the shore and impeded our view to some extent, but it soon cleared again. It was 4 P. M. before we reached our destination on the siding at Hotel Del Monte.  Here we found carriages in waiting to take us on the seventeen-mile drive around the coast.  About a dozen had been over the drive before and did not care to go again, but elected to spend the afternoon among the beauties of the hotel grounds. The remainder of the party at once boarded the coaches and left for the drive. They had not gone far before the heavy fogs again rolled in from the ocean and made wraps and overcoats very comfortable.  Where these were not at hand the lap blankets came in play.  Chris Judd got so drowsy again that he had to be sandwiched between two other men to keep him from falling out of the carriage.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Their route first led through the old town of Monterey, whose old adobe and historic buildings attracted general attention.  Al- though a town of only 2000 inhabitants, it looks most prosperous and they were not surprised to learn that it possesses fine schools, electric lights, a good water system, a bank and a public park, besides an up-to-date trolley line, and is also the site of a large military post. Historically it is credited with being the place where in 1849 a State constitution was framed and with being the first capital of the State. Here ware erected the first brick and frame buildings and established the first post office and theatre in California.</P>
028.sgm:<P>After leaving the town the route ran through Pacific Grove, which is quite a well patronized seaside resort. Lake Majella, Moss Beach, the clashing currents at Point Joe, Seal Rocks which a number of seals and seagulls inhabited, and Cypress Point with ifs crooked and distorted cypress trees or cedars of Lebanon, which some insist on calling them, were all points of interest on the drive. The black rocks, the swirling currents and the masses of dark seaweed floating with the waves made the rock-bound coast very picturesque.  It was not quite so picturesque when the leading coach contracted the old complaint known as a hot box and delayed the procession nearly a half hour.  After monkeying with it for that length of time its occupants deserted it and distributed themselves among the other coaches. The fog by this time was falling almost like rain and the pilgrims, becoming chilled through, urged the drivers to take the shortest cut for home. At 6 P. M. they struck the grounds of the hotel and were driven partly through them to enjoy some of the magnificently kept lawns and flower beds and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The party that had remained in the gardens spent a very enjoyable time in and around the hotel.  The Del Monte, which is well known to travelers from all over the world, is set in the midst of a tract of one hundred and sixty acres of fine old woodland, principally oaks. Some of the old live oaks, with the hanging moss upon their limbs remind one of the Southern swamp lands.  In front of the hotel the gardeners had grown all kinds of flowering plants into Masonic and Templar designs out of compliment to the numerous Commanderies expected to visit them this year.  Nearby was the Arizona Garden filled with innumerable species of cactus of all shapes and sizes. Palms of immense size were plentiful, rare trees with scientific names attached and curious foliage abounded, and great beds of hydrangeas with blooms of large size lent variety to the scene.  Keen had his kodak with him and took various pictures of the party here.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0090" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Del Monte Maze</P>
028.sgm:<P>But the greatest attraction was the Del Monte maze, formed of evergreen hedges as walls, rising one above the other until the centre wall loomed surmounted by growing figures like crosses and circles.  It is said to be modeled after one of the same kind at Hampton Court in England.  Two of Uncle Sam's soldiers were whiling away the afternoon in the gardens. They had mastered the intricacies of the maze and Charley Stump soon became their equal if not superior in that respect. His first attempts to learn the route were frustrated by McIntyre, who followed in his footsteps and either picked up or shifted the pieces of paper with which he endeavored to mark the proper turning corners.  With guides who knew their road all the party found their way to the centre court and out again, although it required a walk of nearly a mile to cover the whole grounds.  In the centre they found a lady with a baby coach and child, who had vainly tried time after time to find her way out and always came back to the same point.  She had been waiting there some time, and gladly welcomed our advent, but stuck very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Going back to the train one of the party spied a century plant in bloom at some little distance across the garden. After enjoying the novelty for some little time, word was taken back to the train about it, to which the coaching party had now returned.  It was growing dusk, but nearly all the party walked back to view the sight as one they might never see again. After dinner a large number spent the evening at the hotel and in the club house adjoining, where a number of games of ten pins were bowled both by Knights and ladies.  Here Chris Judd was nodding in a chair on the hotel porch and was invited by one of the bell-boys to adjourn to his room, as sleeping on the porch was not allowed.</P>
028.sgm:<P>It was well on to midnight when they broke away from the pleasures of the hotel and left for their train.  Here the maze was again the subject of conversation and some of the ladies expressed a desire to explore it. Stump raked out some railroad lanterns and led several parties through with their aid until nearly I A. M. Two of the colored staff were with one party and when Petzoldt declared he saw a rattlesnake they stuck very closely to the light all the way out.  Finally all the night owls returned to their home and sought the shelter of their berths for some much needed rest. So ended another busy, pleasant and profitable day in California.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Saturday, September 10, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>THE weather was foggy and damp this morning. We had expected to leave our berth at Del Monte at 4 A. M. and be well out on the coast line before we woke up.  Instead of these arrangements being carried out we had again been hoodooed by  our  old  friends from Williamsport and Scranton.  They were still behind us, but had started in on the single track of the branch road before we could get out and had delayed us for two hours again.  But all things come to those who wait and we finally emerged from our trap at Castroville onto the main line of the Southern Pacific and started down the coast. There were many sound sleepers throughout the train this morning and a disposition was manifested to lie abed until threatened with the loss of breakfast.</P>
028.sgm:<P>It was 8.15 A. M. before the sun broke through the fog and lent a charming radiance to the mountain scenery of the Coast Range, up which we were working with two engines in front of us once more.  One side of the train overlooked a pastoral country, full of cattle ranches, fruit orchards and grain farms.  Irrigating ditches cut the landscape in every direction and made the country look like a huge checker-board.  On the other side of the train was the mountain range with wild and romantic crags rising away above our heads.  When you got your fill of either kind of scenery you had only to change to the other side to enjoy an entirely different brand.  Prairie dogs were plentiful along the road and ran to the top of their burrows to sit up in their comical fashion and watch the passing of the train.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Near Salinas we saw the great Spreckels sugar factory, one of the largest in the world, where 300,000 tons of sugar beets are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>At 10 A. M. a progressive euchre was started at the dining car tables with forty participants, the committee having issued invitations for the same in the early morning.  For an hour and a half the players thoroughly enjoyed their games under the novel conditions.  The ladies' prizes were awarded to Mrs. Wells and Miss Robinson, while those for the gentlemen fell to the lot of Ollie Price and John Bowker,</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 11 A. M. we neared the mountain summit and passed through another series of tunnels, seven in all.  Here the scenery was very wild, although our elevation was but a thousand feet. The weather had again become dry and much warmer.  At San Luis Obispo, where we made a short stop to change engines, we inquired for our old friend, John Williams, formerly of Fresno, but now United States weather observer at the point. He had left the station but a few minutes previously and we missed connecting with him.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We were provided here with a bum engine which broke down before we had gone a mile and we had to await the arrival of another, which meant the loss of another hour. If we had suffered this at the station we might have had a view of the first of the old Spanish Missions, founded in 1772, which is here located.  Shortly after getting started again we ran past hundreds of acres of sugar beets. At 1.30 P. M. a strong and welcome breeze from the ocean again struck us and at 2.15 P. M. we emerged from a defile alongside the Pacific Ocean. From this point the scenery was very fine and ever changing. We spent a remarkably pleasant afternoon and at 5 P. M. ran into Santa Barbara just four hours late. As 5 P. M. is the hour at which everybody strikes work down here, we had much trouble to get special trolleys for a trip to the Old Mission. Some of the party got impatient, as the hour was getting late, and took what accommodations could be had on the regular cars, while others were fortunate enough to capture a couple of carriages.</P>
028.sgm:<P>All managed to get to the Mission at one time, the specials turning up later on.  This mission is younger than that of San Louis Obispo, having been built in 1786, but being still in perfect repair. These missions were built at the instance of the old Spanish monks, who came up the coast from Mexico and formed a chain from Monterey down to San Diego.  They were located about a day's journey apart by horse or muleback and furnished a resting place for each night for the traveling brother.  Our party was escorted through the building by some of the monks who are its sole inhabitants and then to the garden in the rear where Jake Haines profaned the sanctity of the place by working his camera. This did not catch the skull of one of the departed brethren which is imbedded in the wall above the back door, for what purpose is unknown.</P>
028.sgm:<P>After being shown through the building and taking a tramp up a stone stairway as narrow as the proverbial entrance to Heaven.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0093" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Convent Garden, Santa Barbara</P>
028.sgm:<P>On our return trip many of the party switched off to the beach for a bath. They found the hour too late for a plunge in the surf, but took much comfort in the finely appointed enclosed bathhouse, which was soon ringing with shouts of laughter at the antics of the swimmers.  Eiler, Kessler, Heist, Miller, Wells, Brehm, Stewart and a dozen others gave exhibitions of their skill in the water and coming down the steep sliding trough at the rate of a mile a second. Charles Stump was one Of the most active swimmers and nothing gave him more satisfaction than to come down the slide on his back with a Santa Barbara urchin sitting on top of him.  Bowker backed water after going to the top of the slide and looking down, until the jeers of everybody present drove him up again.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0094" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Hot Lunch</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Sunday, September 11, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>DAYLIGHT found Mary's special side-tracked in the Southern  Pacific Station at Los Angeles, were it had been dropped at 4 A. M. Early rising was one feature of the day and the pilgrims were soon outside  enjoying  the balmy air of a beautiful Sunday morning.  Before breakfast there was hot haste to find open barber shops in which to sacrifice the hirsute adornments that had been accumulating on some of the faces since leaving San Francisco.  The union shops appeared to be the latest to get down to business and the so-called scabs consequently secured the early trade.  Breakfast was to be served at an earlier hour on account of the trip we had scheduled to Santa Catalina Island.  This required a seventeen-mile railroad ride to San Pedro before the twenty-one miles by steamer could be taken out on the Pacific Ocean.</P>
028.sgm:<P>There had been considerable discussion previous to this morning as to whether the trip would be likely to cause sea-sickness and there was some disposition manifested to cut it  out on that account. It was impossible to get the exact number of tickets required until almost time for the train to start.  The beautiful morning and the little breeze that was blowing finally carried the day for the majority and there was but a round dozen that declined.  At 9.10 A. M. the ocean voyagers boarded the train for San Pedro.  In laying out our trip we had not counted upon this being a Sunday and consequently a holy day.  Neither did we make any calculation on the holy day crowd that we found on the train, which was not only crowded to the doors, but beyond the doors down to the bottom steps.  The train ran very slowly and made numerous stops, as it appeared to us only to allow the train hands sufficient time to collect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Much time was occupied in getting the crowd aboard, during which the crowd outside amused themselves by throwing nickels and dimes overboard to be dived for by a number of sunburned urchins who were disporting themselves in the water for that purpose. It was wonderful with what facility they recovered the coins thrown into the water, some of them actually reaching the money before it struck the bottom.  One or two of the most active had their mouths so full of nickels that they could not shout or talk. It remained for the less wealthy ones to let out the constant "throw us a nickel, mister," to keep the fun going. Some of the party had a few pennies in their pockets and threw them over. The winners of these prizes came to the surface with the coins in their hands and indignantly threw them back at the crowd, pennies not being current in California except at the Post Office. The water was so clear that the urchins could be watched clear to the bottom as they struck out for the spoils.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The Cabrillo, however, was like the crowded trolley car, always having room for a few more, and when the crowd had gotten on board they all found accommodations either on the upper or lower decks. At first there was a scarcity of chairs, but the steamer had hundreds stowed away in the hold which were hoisted out by the bougey head porter until all were supplied. Instead of a rough sea which some of the pilgrims had feared to encounter after getting beyond the breakwater, the ocean was as smooth as the proverbial mill pond.  The air also was warm and fans were needed rather than extra wraps.  A number of the pilgrims invaded the bridge, right under the captain's eye, and were allowed to remain there unmolested. The bulk of them secured chairs on the shady side of the lower deck where the sun never touched them during the whole trip.  Here they put in the time by singing all the old familiar hymn tunes they could recall, while many of the other passengers joined in.</P>
028.sgm:<P>As the steamer ran out through the shallow water it appeared of a pale green color and many of the party remarked that they had always heard that the Pacific was blue.  In a very short time they had occasion to laugh at their first impression as the water, when we got a little distance off shore, was a most heavenly blue, and so continued all the way over to the island. The pier at Avalon, which is the only spot on the island where a port could be built, was reached at 12.15 P. M., and the crowd got ashore much more quickly than it had been embarked. Two score men and boys, scantily clad, were here repeating the same scene of diving for coins on the outside of the steamer and alongside the pier. The bottom of the bay was plainly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>A special steamer had been secured for our return at 2 P. M., and the word was passed for all who desired to return at that hour to be on hand promptly.  Consequently no time was lost by the majority in taking in the principal sights to be seen.  There were some, however, who decided that the first duty was to look after the wants of the inner man and hunt up luncheon, in which matter they reckoned without their host.  The crowd was so great that lunches were very slowly served and quite a few of them were obliged to remain over until the Cabrillo made her return trip at 6 P. M.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The first rush was of course for the glass-bottomed boats, from which to view the Marine Gardens at the bottom of the sea just outside the bay. These boats have a well built up in the centre some two <illus entity="a028-0096" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Avalon, Catalina Island</P>
028.sgm:feet high with a plate glass set in at the bottom.  Around the well a dozen to fifteen passengers can find room to sit comfortably and look down through the bottom at the wonders to be observed. These are beyond our ability to describe adequately.  Sea weeds and marine plants of many colors, some of which were of immense size, covered the bottom in places with a dense growth. Others grew singly and allowed of sandy patches between, which were full of shells of all kinds, fish of many colors, lobsters, and we even saw a devilfish, or octopus, lying in wait for his prey at one spot. There was an immense number of gold fish of all sizes, which the boatmen said were not good to eat, as they lived off the vegetation at the bottom and their meat tasted of it.  It is as well that this is so, because they darted about in such numbers, and their bright color set off the weeds very much.  There were silver fish also, and an electric fish which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Lew Matlack was one of those who had gone without luncheon and was chewing tobacco vigorously to fill out the time and the vacuum. Being totally carried away by the beauty of the scene upon which he was gazing, and forgetting altogether that he was looking through glass, he let go his mouthful, as he thought into the water, but it fetched up on the glass in a beautiful splotch. Everybody was dumbfounded for a moment, of merriment and then let go a volley that woke Lew up.  He nearly broke his back and used up all the handkerchiefs he owned or could borrow to get the glass clean, while the crowd encouraged him with all kinds of advice and suggestions how to do it.  One of the ladies on board becoming seasick from gazing too steadily downward and the motion of the boat, Lew was unanimously chosen to hold her head as a reward for the entertainment he had added to the boat ride.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The boat was not kept stationary after being pulled out to deep water by a steam launch, but was rowed around over water from twenty to one hundred feet in depth.  In the deeper water many schools of food-fish could also be seen, some of them very large in number.  Some of the plants even in deep water looked as though you could reach down and grasp them in your hands. They did not lie down on the bottom, but stood up like trees and were said to be supported by air sacks growing upon them. Many of them contained great clusters of flowers that certainly looked very much out of place under water, as the plants waved to and fro with the motion of the water.  Hours could be consumed in gazing upon the wonders of the submarine gardens without the sight becoming at all tiresome.</P>
028.sgm:<P>On shore the beach was a Coney Island on a small scale.  All kinds of souvenirs were on sale at the houses or shanties, from postal cards up.  Parties who had been out fishing were being photographed with rods in their hands and the ocean for a background, with their spoils hung up on a butcher's rack between them. Weighing machines and all the other devices for catching stray nickels or dimes abounded.  Barkers for the different boats made themselves hoarse with their stentorian efforts to catch business, as did some of the same tribe for the -lunch stands and restaurants.  Some who essayed to get lunch after seeing the sights had to leave most of it untasted and run for the boat when the whistle sounded, so long was the lunch ordered in being served. But the proprietors always halted them long enough to collect the four or six bits contracted for in advance.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Allen Commandery, of Allentown, was in Los Angeles and came on the same excursion with us to the island.  The steamship company had asked us to allow any of their number who wished to return at 2 P. M. to come with us, which request was, of course, cheerfully granted.  The Falcon, a much smaller steamer than the Cabrillo, had been detailed for this service, and her whistle was blown promptly at the appointed hour, all hurrying on board who could make the pier. Many others desired to go up at the same time, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Flying fish in great numbers were to be seen on the way back, rising sometimes in a large school as they were pursued by their enemies of a larger growth. They often made quite a flight and glistened in. the sun as though they had been polished. A large steamer passed us, bound up the coast, flying Old Glory, the sight of which, rippling and waving in the fresh breezes, created unbounded enthusiasm on board, and called for many patriotic expressions. We were out of sight of land for more than an hour, during which time we came near having an episode that might have been fatal to the good spirits of the company.  An incautious cry of "Fire!" seriously alarmed those who heard it as they saw smoke issuing in quantities from behind a closed door.  The steamer hands were prompt in their duty and found upon investigation that a large box of matches in the store room had exploded or gone off of its own accord and set the room on fire. It was well that the fire was promptly discovered and as promptly quenched.</P>
028.sgm:<P>About 4 P. M. the mountains on shore loomed up like shadows, and were gladly welcomed as harbingers of the distant land to which we were bound. At 5 P. M. we had once more reached the steamship dock and landed to take our train back. The train was in waiting all right, but the engine to draw was non est. It had been scheduled for just the hour at which we landed, and was awaiting, as the locomotive was not, neither were the cars doors unlocked.  After much racing around and questioning of railroad employes, who as usual knew nothing, one was found who could phone authoritatively, who promised. an engine in a few minutes, and who admitted us to the cars. The few minutes grew into quite a number, and meanwhile the male contingent amused themselves, and the ladies looking on, by playing duck on davy and baseball, with oranges for balls. The latter did not survive many hits, and when they gave way it was sure to be as some one caught them in their hands, which fact furnished much amusement to all the other fellows.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Finally the promised engine arrived and made first-class time back to the station at Los Angeles without any aggravating stops. We connected with that point at 6 P. M., just in time to demolish a much longed for dinner in conjunction with the stay-at-homes who had arrived in advance of us.</P>
028.sgm:<P>That dozen who had remained behind this morning had taken the trolley cars first to South Pasadena, where they had stopped at the Ostrich Farm and viewed all its attractions over.  Big birds, little birds, alive and stuffed, eggs, feathers and all the concomitants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>After their ride they finally secured their meal and then paid a visit to the Masonic Temple, where a delegation of ladies were in waiting to extend the courtesies of the city to all Templar visitors.  <illus entity="a028-0097" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Ostriches, South Pasadena</P>
028.sgm:<P>This evening the Southern Pacific tried to outdo itself by shifting our train down into the yards in the centre of half a dozen more. With running trains on the open tracks and shifting engines dodging in and out, it looked very much as if some of us might realize upon our accident insurance policies before the night was over, but we all came safely through by exercising great care. Some of the pilgrims <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The party that was left at Avalon to-day spent a very pleasant afternoon, taking plenty of time for their observations, going out as far as the Seal Rocks and exploring the shores of the island on which <illus entity="a028-0098" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A Catalina View</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Monday, September 12, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>ANOTHER bright and clear morning greeted us upon awakening from sound slumbers, but it bid fair to warm us up again before the day got very old.  As the day was to be a go-as-you-please  affair, and to be devoted entirely to individual sight-seeing, there was little concern about the weather.  The morning meal was quickly disposed of and as quickly the pilgrims dispersed in squads according to their own inclinations.   An  early morning run was taken up to the Masonic Temple, where another bunch of mail was received,  Los Angeles Commandery was also giving out badges, on which were hung a wooden mission bell, finely printed souvenir books of the city, as well as cooling and refreshing drinks, in addition to the free transportation tickets to near-by points.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Most of yesterday's steamer party went to Pasadena to-day, stopping off at South Pasadena to see the Cawson Ostrich Farm. There, after examining tIle stock in the store of plumes, eggs and stuffed birds, and purchasing some as souvenirs of the visit, they entered the farm proper. The entrance is surrounded by palm trees, cactus gardens, roses in abundance, and well laid out walks, the whole combination making a beautiful garden.  The tour of the farm itself was most interesting. There are about 250 of the dilapidated looking birds in the different corrals, and they seemed glad to have visitors call upon them, as they rushed to the fences and grinned pleasantly at their callers. It was necessary for the guides to warn the visitors all the time not to get too close, as the big fellows make a practice of grabbing at anything that glistens in the sun, and would as soon swallow a diamond stud or gold badge as a bite of apple or orange.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>One of the guides supplied the party with oranges, and the way a whole orange would slide down that long neck excited the admiration of all.  They could be watched going down the whole length until they finally disappeared.  "Such a neck for cocktails or high balls!" was the general exclamation of envy from the male visitors. Anything is legitimate diet for an ostrich, from pebbles to lighted pipes, pieces of glass, jewelry or tennis balls and one is solemnly accused of having swallowed a gimlet. When once mated the pairs of birds remain true to one another, evidently not believing in divorce laws.  They take turns in sitting on their eggs, the one in the day time and the mate at night. Maneely bought an egg with <illus entity="a028-0100" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Swallowing an Orange</P>
028.sgm:<P>Continuing their journey, they struck Pasadena after another short ride.  Although more of a winter than a summer resort, the city looked beautiful this bright day, and while the sun was warm thee air was very pleasant. Immense palms and flowers innumerable surrounded the beautiful residences and fine hotels which embellished <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:the city.  When we understand that this is not the flower season proper, we can only wonder what the gardens look like when the season for their fulness is at hand. Everybody was made welcome at the Temple by the Knights of Pasadena Commandery and <illus entity="a028-0101" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Palm Avenue, Los Angeles</P>
028.sgm:<P>After luncheon, others made a trip to another Old Mission, the San Miguel, which is several miles outside of the town.  This mission <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The stores also proved a great attraction to the ladies, who always returned to the train loaded up with souvenirs. A number also took the train this afternoon for Long Beach, a seaside resort, where they had fine surf bathing and a good time generally.  Our train was not scheduled to leave Los Angeles until after midnight, but notice was given that any one not on board by 10 P. M. would be obliged to meet the train at the Santa F&eacute; depot, to which it would he shifted about that hour, In the meantime.the Southern Pacific backed us again into the station and tried to choke all hands by letting the Pintsch gas, which is used on Pullman trains, escape while recharging the tanks of the cars. It was of no use to protest of ask for the removal of the train into fresh air, as the lordly stationmaster wished no instructions in regard to his business. We could only hope that he would be put in the Pintsch gas reservoir at some day in the.great future.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Rather than risk missing connection with the train, nearly everybody reported on time and rode to the Santa F&eacute; on our special. In the club car the weary pilgrims spent the remainder of the time until the train pulled at 12.30 A. M. for Riverside, our next stop. By 1 A. M. John had succeeded in clearing the last of the night owls from his domain, and found some rest for himself. This was another of the strenuous days of the pilgrimage, and the labors thereof assured a sound night's sleep.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Tuesday September 13, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>THE train arrived at Riverside at 4 A. M., and we awoke to find it anchored beside a large irrigating ditch, the same location which we occupied twelve years ago.  A short distance in front oF the train was the main street of the city, along which trolley tracks were now laid and cars running. Little time was lost in securing break- fast, as carriages had been ordered for a drive at 9 A. M:, and the pilgrims were looking for ward to a delightful ride through the thousands of orange groves at this place.  Some of those who got through their morning meal early took a walk down town as far as the New Glenwood, Riverside's Mission Hotel. This hostelry, now one of the attractions to Western tourists, had in its architectural design all the main features of the old missions of Southern California. With the grounds it occupies an entire block. Its exterior and interior excite the attention of the visitor and make him feel like remaining for a time.  The inner court, with its mission garden, the mission arches, the tiled roofs, the clinging vines on the outside, together with the timbered ceilings and quaint windows of the inside, make a picture long to be remembered. The tiles which cover the roof of the cottage in the courtyard, had been taken from one of the old ruined mission buildings and were a century and a-half old and looked fair for another century or two at least.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Going inside we found a number of Sir Knights from Washington and Baltimore, who were just getting breakfast. They had been also booked for the Riverside drive, but had been delayed on the. road until they were obliged to give it up, and just run up and down the trolley road before they started again on their way. Among them we were glad to shake hands with Frank Thomas and his wife, and Bennett Allen, of our Columbia Commandery friends.  McCoy appeared to know pretty much everybody in the party, as he was for some years ticket agent at Washington, D. C.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Close by the hotel on the same avenue was a new Carnegie Library building, also looking more like an ancient mission than the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Breakfast being in an advanced state at an early hour, and the agent of the livery stable being at hand, the hour for the ride was changed to 8.45 A. M., at which time the carriages were at hand and were immediately comfortably filled.  Some of the teams were at first driven through the courtyard of the new Glenwood to give the occupants an idea of the special features of the building from the outside. Then the route was taken up through some of the business streets and residence section of the town before starting on the drive proper through the orange grove. Then mile after mile of the latter was traversed, most of which were in a new section of country <illus entity="a028-0103" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Carnegies' Library</P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Many fine residences, surrounded by magnificent flowers and plants of all kinds, were located among the groves, and it is a pleasure to the proprietors to have visitors drive through the finely kept grounds and enjoy with them the beauties of their places.  Unfortunately for the pilgrims it was not the orange season, but many of the trees still bore their burden of fruit, to give them an idea of how the trees can be laden.  The lemon trees also contained plenty of the specimens of that fruit, which is more or less in season at all times. Pomegranate trees were common among the plants surrounding the residences, while the choicest palms, century plants and all semi-tropical growths abounded.  Six of the century plants, in full <illus entity="a028-0104" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Orange Grove, Riverside</P>
028.sgm:<P>When we look out upon our bare gardens and snow-covered streets this winter, we will wonder if such things can be in the same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Leaving the boulevard, we turned off and visited the Sherman Institute, an Indian Training School on the plan of that at Carlisle. <illus entity="a028-0105" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Riverside Coach</P>
028.sgm:It is surrounded by spacious grounds and many fields under cultivation, in which the Indian boys were at work.  Many of the young redskins were passing to and fro who looked contented and happy at the prospect of becoming good citizens at some future date. Further on we ran across a Riverside Chinatown, a rough-looking settlement of frame shanties, with laundry signs on a good many of them. Driving back through the city proper we passed White Park, in a pavilion of which a brass band was playing. The park itself contains a garden of cacti, which is said to contain a specimen of every known species of cactus in the world. Another stop was made on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>There was little time to spare when the coaches returned to the train. Everybody was ordered aboard and the train left on time, at 12 M. At 12.20 P. M. a stop was made at San Bernardino. Across the valley from the station is Arrowhead Mountain, which shows <illus entity="a028-0106" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Century Plant, Riverside</P>
028.sgm:<P>At the station, where are located large railroad shops, we came across numbers of Philadelphia machinists who were working in these shops. Three hundred and twenty-five of them had emigrated from the Baldwin shops, the Pencoyd Iron Works and the Southwark Foundry.  They were very glad to meet with some one who could talk old Philly to them. Some of them had brought their families <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>At 1 P. M. we were again off on our road with two engines to assist us in climbing another mountain range. The principal objects of view after leaving San Bernardino were the different species of desert vegetation.  Prickly pears, greasewood and sagebrush flourished in all their glory, but did not look inviting enough for any one to wish for samples. Up in the mountains clouds had gathered in ominous blackness, and the thunder was rolling and reverberating around the hills and through the gorges at an alarming rate, and directly the rain came down on our train in torrents. At 2.15 P. M. <illus entity="a028-0107" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Mexican Sombrero</P>
028.sgm:<P>We reached Victoria at 3 P. M. and stopped to take on water and oil, having oil-burning engines again towing us. All the motive power on this section of road being of that type.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 3.30 P. M. another progressive euchre was given in the dining car by Mrs. Henderson and Mrs. Bowker, at which the ladies' prizes were awarded to Mrs. Charles Reese and Miss Milligan, and the gentlemen's to Charles Reese and Charles Bair.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Gold is found in paying quantities in the hills and mountains around here, and we passed a large smelting works just before reaching Barstow at 3.55 P. M.  In the few minutes that we stopped at that station, we were called to by a lady to view some underground lodgings, which she said was the only place cool enough for the railroad men to get any comfortable sleep in this climate.  They were dug into the sandy soil about six feet and ran up about four feet above ground, the outside being banked up with more sand. Inside they were as neat and tidy bed-rooms as you would wish to see, looking white and cool enough to invite a nap at once. We had but a few minutes to take it in, but we certainly enjoyed the novel sight.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0108" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Navajo Belle</P>
028.sgm:<P>Since the hail storm we had been running through cool and pleasant airs, which continued all the afternoon.  At one time for more than an hour the train ran in the shadow of a large cloud, which seemed to hover over us right along, while the sun shone brightly all around the shadowy spot. So the crossing of the desert had given us but little discomfort.  Many beds of lava were passed this afternoon, and a number of extinct volcanoes reared their empty craters in the hills beyond. At 5.30 P. M. we stopped at Ludlow, a water station in the midst of the desert.  At some points this afternoon we had been below the sea level, but no water is to be found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>The Santa F&eacute; conductor for this division, while hobnobbing with the boys in the smoker, was questioned as to what could be raised in this section of country. His answer was: "You can't raise anything around here but hell; you do not even have to raise an umbrella."</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 9.15 P. M. we reached the Needles, the last station in California.  It lies on the Colorado River, which is here the dividing line between California and Arizona. The town takes its name from two tall pillars of rock, just off the river bank between which the railroad runs before crossing the river on an iron bridge. The station was to-night bright with lights, and alive with people.  Most of those outside were Mojave Indians, who were anxious to sell strings and ornaments of beads, clay pipes and other pottery of their own manufacture.  The pilgrims were off the train at once and mingling generally with the dirty-looking Mojaves for barter like their Quaker ancestor. Two bits was the minimum figure at which most of the wares were quoted, ranging upward to one dollar. Indeed their vocabulary seemed confined to two, four and six bits and one dollar. Doc. Shriner, who is one of the most indefatigable seekers after information upon our train, asked one of the squaws as to what tribe she belonged, and received the regulation answer, "Two bits." We were informed by one of the white men near by that most of the Indian men, who stood around in stolid indifference, while the squaws made sales, were employed by the railroad company, and could talk English by the yard if necessary. But when a trainload of tourists were to be taken in and done for, their language was very limited.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Shriner had been loaded with statistics  at every station on the roads over which we have passed, and if he has not forgotten them knows all the distances, elevations; temperatures and populations of the entire route. When he could not think of anything else to ask a man he would inquire what his wife's maiden name was and of what his mother-in-law died.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At one end of the station platform was a squaw with a papoose tightly wrapped in endless covering, face and all, until it was a mystery how it could breathe.  A buck who stood behind and was evidently her lord and master, was asked whether she would not show its face. He replied she would for ten cents. The cash was at once produced, but the grey mare proved the better horse, and the squaw absolutely refused to comply unless the  ante was raised to "two bits.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Another squaw had a papoose nearer the station doorway, whose little eyes were bright as black beads, but who was evidently afraid of the curious white strangers crowding around to see him.  A strong effort was made to buy the copper-colored infant, and bids were successively offered all the way from two bits to two dollars <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>The usual stock of trinkets was purchased at the Needles to be added to the large amount already stored upon the train. Whenever a stop at any station is made there is always a grand rush to get off if only for a minute or two, as it serves to break the monotony of railroad riding, and you stand some chance of adding to your stock of information.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We were off again at 10 P.M. with every prospect of a warm night. Our engineer had orders to run slowly beyond the Needles, as there had been heavy showers reported ahead of us that might have caused washouts on the track. There were jolly parties on the train to-night, and it was again late before the last one retired for the night.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Wednesday, September 14, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>WHILE we looked for warm weather during the night, we woke up this morning with the Pullman blankets pulled up snugly around us.  What had caused the change we did not know, neither were we aware of the time, but merely obeyed the natural instinct which makes you draw up the covers  in  your  sleep when the cool air strikes you.  It was still quite cool and pleasant at an early hour this morning, but we were sorry to learn that we were five hours behind time. There had been heavy rains for three weeks  preceding, and numerous washouts had taken place, so that heavy trains like ours were compelled to run slowly.  In addition to this necessity there had been a strike on the road, which made good engineers and firemen scarce. This, by the way, reminds us that one of the parading union men in San Francisco gaily bore his sign around among the visiting knights with the legend thereon: "Do not patronize the Santa F&eacute; Railroad, as it is unfair."</P>
028.sgm:<P>We gained one of the hours in time last night that we lost on our way to the West, which made an unexpectedly early rush to breakfast,  Some of the second half were still at that meal when we arrived at Williams at 9 A. M. instead of 4.30 A. M., when we were scheduled to be here.  There had been some wild yarns told us on the way here of the tough citizens of Williams, who would walk through the train and pick up grips or suit cases at their pleasure and decamp with them.  Some of the ladies had been needlessly very much alarmed thereby, as we found about the same class of people around the station as at other points.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Here we were to branch off for the Grand Canon of Arizona, a sight of which we had been anticipating with much pleasure for some days. The weather had got quite warm again, and clouds were gathering around as though another thunderstorm was in prospective. A raid upon a store adjacent to the station for souvenirs was productive of little results.  The Scarcest article in Williams was said to be water, there being but one well in all the town. The owner thereof had a monopoly, and knew how to work it just as well as Rockefeller. There was no scarcity of saloons, however, and some of them were crowned with unique signs, such as "Life Saving Station" and "Palace Thirst Parlor."</P>
028.sgm:<P>The station platform was crowded with stranded passengers, en route for the canon, who had arrived late for the morning train, and were forced to wait for the regular train at 2 P. M. Among these were Tom Hare, a member of Mary, and his friend and fellow traveler, Doc. Mayer, who had run against us in San Francisco.  We were besieged by dozens of people to take them upon our train, but had to decline.  It was a not very congenial task where so many ladies were concerned, but we could not accommodate them.  We offered to let the railroad authorities attach cars to the train, but they were rather dubious about taking our train in as it was, the road being built of light rails and is a ramshackle affair at best. We did finally take on a half-dozen men who could accommodate themselves to life in the smoker.  They included Hare and Mayer and four Knights from Cincinnati and West Virginia, who were returning home independent of their commands.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The ladies enjoyed a grand sight during the run up the canon road in the shape of wild flowers. These grew in the greatest profusion, there being beds, half acres and whole acres in a bunch. Now a bed of purple daisies, then a solid white mass of them, and again a perfect feast of yellow blossoms. So they alternated all the way up to the canon on either side of the road, some of them even growing up between the stones of the ballast on the road bed.  Prairie dogs were also numerous, and a few jack rabbits scudded before the noise of the train, disappearing as quickly almost as attention could be called to their appearance.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Luncheon was advanced to an earlier hour, so that no time need be lost after our arrival at the canon. We should have had all day there, but the lost time must come off our stay. It was about $ P. M. when the train pulled up at the station, and all hands were off in quick time. There was a number of steps to climb to get up to thee level of the Bright Angel Hotel, from in front of which the first view of the Grand Canon is to be enjoyed. A few drops of rain were falling and heavy clouds were whirling around over our heads, but they formed no hindrance to the rush for the view.  The storm finally sheered off and broke on the other side of the canon, but as this was thirteen miles across it did not interfere any further with our plans.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Why the name of Bright Angel was applied to the one-storied log cabin, unpainted building which answers at present for a hotel, was a mystery to all. It also applies to the trail by which you go down from this point to the bottom of the canon. There it is more applicable as, if your horse should slip going down, you stand a very good chance of becoming the being after whom the place is called. When it is applied to the view, the first the pilgrims had of the place, the cognomen is also all right. Any other high-sounding title would answer equally as well. Although walking boldly down to the practically unprotected edge of the canon, the first impulse is to draw back, not a little, but to some distance. The sort of attraction which impels some persons to feel that they must jump down from any <illus entity="a028-0111" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Grand Canon of Arizona</P>
028.sgm:<P>And then the colors of many hues, the red predominating over all, beside blacks, whites and greys of all shades in regular lines in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Coaches similar to those in use in the Yellowstone, were in waiting to give us views from other points of this side of the canon. These were quickly occupied and driven first to Point Rowe and Cyclorama Point. The trail, which was dignified by the name of road, and led to these points, was cut through an almost impenetrable forest, most of which was composed of gnarled and knotted cedars. There was no getting through except by the trail, as everywhere else were fallen trunks of trees and thick underbrush, together with thousands of cacti of a dozen different breeds. As to the trail itself, nobody can appreciate its fine points except one who has ridden over it in a stage coach: No description can do justice to the hills, hollows, bumps, stumps or rocks which embellished the way and gave variety to the ride.  It took a nervy, cool-headed driver to guide four fresh horses over it, and through the narrow passes and extremely short turns it made at some places. As an aid to digestion, though, it was a grand success.</P>
028.sgm:<P>From Cyclorama Point the same grand features were to be seen as at Bright Angel, only there was a greater scope of the canon in sight. Everywhere you turned fresh features appeared, and were received with many exclamations of wonder and pleasure from most of the party, although many drank in the view in silence, awed by the grandeur of the whole scene.  The thunder storm was still in full swing on the farther side of the canon, and the clouds would darken the sun for some minutes. Then it would break through and light up the colored pinnacles in a blaze of beauty, only to be shaded again in a little while.</P>
028.sgm:<P>After this view the coaches were driven back past the train and on to Grand View, where was another grand view indeed.  Taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0112" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A wall of the Grand Canon of Arizona</P>
028.sgm:<P>Matos, Hare and McCoy had secured horses to ride in preference to taking a coach, and tore around the trail with a guide on their own hook.  At Cyclorama Point, Matos was tendered the use of a white horse called Jim, if he would go back to the stable for it.  It was the horse that President Roosevelt had ridden on his visit to the canon.  Of course Matos seized the opportunity to sit where the President had sat, and returned with the guide for Jim.  Returning on the narrow trail with the fresh horse, they suddenly met one of the coaches on its way, and had to turn out of the road quickly. The guide slipped through all right, but Matos struck the trunk of a tree with his knee with great force.  It was first feared that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>There is a new hotel building nearly completed upon an elevation overlooking the canon, which will be ready for the tourist of next season. It seems quite an undertaking to put up a large hotel here, for which all supplies will have to be brought for many miles, even the necessary water being hauled there.  But Western enterprise is equal to all these things, and takes chances of repayment that seem prohibitive at the outset.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The usual store, with curios and souvenirs of all kinds, was found at the canon, and was thoroughly overhauled by our pilgrims. Many of them were disappointed that we had not been long enough here to make the descent into the canon on horseback or astraddle of a burro. But it is an all day journey, and our schedule of course would not permit of lying over for another day. The party that had gone down this morning at an early hour only came up a few minutes before we left this evening. They had been thoroughly drenched with rain on their trip and were in sorry plight. There was a Boston Knights Templar train on the track adjoining ours, and as all our party were onødeck, an effort was made to have our train go out ahead of them, but we got lost in the deal after being made quite sure of the game. We did not get away until 6.25 P. M., while dinner was under way. By the time the meal was over darkness had set in and shut out our view of the country on the way down. Williams was not reached again until 10 P. M. The station was shrouded in darkness and no one left the cars during our fifteen minutes' halt there before we switched out on to the main line again.  After leaving Williams the last of the pilgrims began to drift berthwards, the greater number of them having retired earlier. The shaking up during the afternoon ride had tired most of them sufficiently.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Thursday, September 15, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>HIS was another bright and lovely morning, although the warm weather that seemed to have adhered to our progress generally since coming out of the Yellowstone, bid fair to continue today. On our advent this morning we were informed by the train crew now in charge that we were an hour behind time.  We were following the course of the Little Colorado River, down whose bed the water was rushing in torrents from heavy  rains  that had fallen last night or ahead of us this morning. The water had a familiar appearance, and might have passed for good old Schuylkill if we had not known it was far away. It was cutting away the half sandy banks in huge slices, and mixing the material with the water as it raced by. The same rain that raised the river water kept us free from any dust on the train, for which it had our thanks.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At the rate we were running our conductor informed us we would not reach Santa F&eacute;, our next stopping place, before 4 P. M. As this would leave us but an hour in the ancient city, we made arrangements to leave there at 6 P. M., stretching our visit another hour. At 7.30 A. M. we passed the boundary line between Arizona and New Mexico. Having traversed the whole width of the former state from west to east, we now started in to cross the latter to the northeast corner.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 8.10 A. M. we made a short stop at Gallup, a mining town, in which the principal mines on the main street seemed to be devoted to the production and refining of old rye and kindred products. The first one to greet the crowd as they got off the train was an old Philadelphian, a graduate of the House of Correction, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Goats in immense flocks were a new product that showed up this morning.  What pasture they occupied seemed to be cropped pretty close and there was no reserve of tin cans in sight for them to fall back on.  Adobe houses also began to be plentiful, all of which are built but one story high and in two sections, with a wide open passageway between.  The open space appears to be used as a dining hall and sleeping place in hot weather, sought for coolness as the air can blow freely through when there is any. Indian tepees and shacks were also numerous. Through these the air can circulate freely as can the rain when it comes.  Curious formations abound in the red conglomerate of the foothills which line the sides of the valleys here.  At some time the water has borne away the softer material between them and it requires but little stretch of the imagination to line out among them castles, chapels, forts or towers without number. As the train turns on its winding way they seem to shift and wheel and form new combinations like a kaleidoscope on a large scale.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We seem to be getting in touch with civilization again this morning when we strike a large cornfield, the property of some of the Pueblo Indians, into whose quarters we are now about to intrude. At 11 A. M. we struck Laguna, a large Indian village or pueblo, where the usual number of squaws was in waiting to dispose of their pottery wares and specimens of turquoise found in this neighborhood.  The Boston train, which had been running just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>We pulled in abreast of the fine new station at Albuquerque at 12.45 P. M. There we had a stop for twenty-five minutes and the pilgrims swarmed at once into the handsome curio store at the station.  Here was every opportunity to satisfy the craving for souvenirs from a stock which embraced everything from postal cards to Navajo blankets or Mexican drawn work. In a rear room were several Indian women weaving the blankets on their peculiar <illus entity="a028-0114" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Indian Pueblo, Laguna</P>
028.sgm:<P>Numerous Indian villages were encountered in the next few miles, the most prominent among them being those of San Felipe  and San Domingo.  All of the houses are built of adobe bricks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>Another progressive euchre was in progress this afternoon, at which the ladies' prizes were awarded to Mrs. Bowker, Mrs. Crist and Mrs. Harry Reese, while the men with the highest scores were Charley Reese, H. Wilson Sheibley and Billy Patterson.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0115" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Salesladies, Albuquerque</P>
028.sgm:<P>Irrigation canals and ditches outlined the section through which we were passing this afternoon, the most of it being cultivated by the Pueblos. A gang of Indian laborers were cutting a large ditch, close by the train, in which some women appeared to be bearing an equal burden with the men, digging away as unconcernedly as if it was an every-day matter with them.  We are now following the course of the Rio Grande River, or what would be a river if it had some water in it.  The dry bed of the stream was there to indicate its location, but the only water was what was contained in a few holes here and there.  Flocks of sheep were numerous and large along the river bed, most of them seeking for water in the holes.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>At 2.30 P. M. we came to a halt at Los Correllos, which was highly recommended to our notice by the railroad men as the tough- est town in the United States.  A number of men were playing some kind of game with a large round skin ball on a square marked out on the ground. As we were not hunting for trouble we did not even inquire what the name of the game was.  Any ordinary set of travelers would be satisfied with the appearance of the town and the inhabitants who stood around.</P>
028.sgm:<P>A grazing country for burro followed along which those diminutive beasts of burden were to be seen in droves  McIntyre said we had at last come into the headquarters of Democrats. They appeared to be as obstinate as of yore, as we saw a man, who was endeavoring to lead one by a rope halter, being towed the other way as fast as the burro could back.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0116" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Indian Pottery Sellers</P>
028.sgm:<P>Lamy was reached at 3.15 P. M.  From here we had to back the train up a mountain spur for an eighteen-mile run to Santa Fe. As we gradually rose the scenery became very rugged and picturesque.  Wild flowers also grew in abundance along the tracks as well as plenty of timber. We ran alongside the Santa Fe Station at 4.10 P. M. and immediately disembarked.  Some took carriages for a tour of the old town, while others preferred to walk, stopping on their way to inspect the new County Court House, one of the very few changes in the appearance of the place since our last visit. A few minutes brought the party to the heart of the town with its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The old Mud Palace is now in the possession of the Historical Society, but we found it tightly shut up, as it is closed to the public after 4 P. M. The majority of the party then went to visit the old San Miguel Mission, one of the main attractions of the city. This ancient building was erected in 1582, although some historians give the date as 1545. Either one is old enough, but you can take your choice.  The building is of small size, being about 70 by 25 feet. The walls are from three to five feet in thickness of the adobe brick and they bid fair to stand the storms of centuries to come; as does its companion old-timer, the Mud Palace.  On one of the beams supporting the gallery is cut a Spanish inscription which is translated as "The Marquis of Pennela repaired this building by the Royal Ensign Don Augustus Flores Vergara, his servant, A. D. 1710." The ages of the ancient altar and the painting above it are unknown. On either side of the altar were paintings of the Annunciation by Giovanni Cimabue of the date A. D. 1356.</P>
028.sgm:<P>A very interesting lecture by one of the fathers attached to the convent adjoining the old chapel gave these and other interesting facts to the attentive pilgrims. Just to the north of the mission IS a two-storied-adobe building which is the remains of an old Indian Pueblo and is much older than the church.  Some historians claim It to be the oldest building in the country.  The Mud Palace was erected in 1598 and was the seat of government by Spanish, Indian, Mexican and American governors in succession for over three hundred years. The collection of curios on board the train this afternoon rivaled all others for variety, ranging from Indian baby rattles and leather postal cards up to filigree jewelry and Mexican drawn counterpanes, and a smoking den could have been fitted out from among it in excellent style.</P>
028.sgm:<P>When the train was reached we were met by a report that Charley Stump had found a long lost brother and wanted to introduce him to us up in the baggage car.  Of course the crowd all flocked there to see him.  He had certainly found another stump, but it had been so long dead that no one could tell its age or Its name.  While the pilgrims had been sightseeing Charley had been prospecting on his own account and discovered the petrified stump of a big tree about two feet in diameter and three in length. It was a curiosity from the petrified forest of Arizona and Charley simply appropriated it.  Its weight of about 350 pounds obliged him to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>We left Santa Fe at 6 P. M. and ran down the mountains again toward Lamy and the main line.  On the way we were treated to one of the most gorgeous sunsets we have yet seen on the trip. The sun went down like a huge ball of fire and as it disappeared behind the western mountain range the effect on the skies was truly majestic.  For more than an hour after its disappearance the red glow illumined the horizon as though an immense fire was in progress and only gave way gradually to the shades of night.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The evening after dinner was spent in laying plans for the morrow, where so many attractions divided the time with the ascent of Pike's Peak, which was to be the main event of the day for the majority.  It was again a late hour before the party broke up for the night, the smoker and club car having many attractions after an enforced absence of even only a couple of hours.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0117" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Summit of Pike's Peak</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Friday, September 16, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>CAME through La Junta, Colorado, at 5.10 A. M., only one hour behind.  We were passing through a good, wholesome section of country when we got out of our berths this morning. At 7 A. M. we passed  through Pueblo, stopping only for a few minutes, during which time we got morning papers.  These told us of a severe storm the previous day in Philadelphia, during which they had a tremendous rainfall. It was a perfect morning here and those who had elected to go up Pike's Peak congratulated themselves on having made that choice.  Fifty-four of the party were on "the list.  Some of the others had been dissuaded from the Peak trip by medical advice which made a bugbear of the rarity of the air.  Several had made the ascent before and did not care to go again. Arrangements had been made for a special train at 9 A. M. and we were near enough to schedule time to make certain that we would reach the station in time for the special.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We ran into Colorado Springs at 7.30 A. M. and were there taken in charge by the Colorado Midland, who ran us down to Manitou over their road and left us side-tracked at their station, at the top of a high hill overlooking the entire city.  All those for the Peak at once started for the Cog Wheel Depot.  McCoy said it was only a short walk and some of the party followed his lead and found the walk a pretty stiff one in this altitude.  More took the trolley at the foot of the hill and reached the depot without any other exertion except that of taking a, nickel from their pockets. The station from which the trains are boarded is a pretty stone structure at the mouth of Engelman Canon, between the Manitou <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Tickets were soon procured for the party and, as the car would only accommodate fifty, a few were put on another train just starting to relieve us of the surplus.  Charley McNamee had intended to go along, but was told by some one at the station that the triP had to be made through a large iron pipe which ran up the mountain from the end of the station platform.  After one look at it McNamee decamped and was not to be found when the car left.  Soon after 9 A. M. our special left for its trip up the Peak, passing through fine scenery. The trains consist only of a single car and its attendant <illus entity="a028-0119" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Manitou</P>
028.sgm:<P>There were more than a few who felt some misgivings about being affected by the air on top of the mountain, but they nevertheless took chances, and none of them appeared to be worrying over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:it. Fortunately none of the party was affected to any serious extent during the entire ride. Some of them complained of a shortness of breath and used but little exertion after reaching the top, while others complained of their hearing being slightly affected as long as they remained on the Peak and for some hours after reaching the bottom again.  Doc Righter distributed some sugar pills when the train started, advising the recipients to take some if they felt dizziness overtaking them. The trip up the Peak is a most fascinating one and it is hard to find words that will adequately describe it and the sensations attending it.  Several stops were made on the way up.  At the altitude of 10,000 feet a beautiful view of the surrounding country <illus entity="a028-0120" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Summit Pike's Peak</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Off on the low side, sometimes near and sometimes out of sight, was the mountain trail up which you can go on burros or shank's mare. When it got up towards the top it seemed like a precarious foothold in many places among the loose stones. Yet we passed a number of people who were footing it up, hatless, coatless and perspiring <illus entity="a028-0121" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Halt on Pike's Peak</P>
028.sgm:in great shape. They were earning all the glory that could be gotten out of it. Several times the engine stopped to take water from convenient tanks that were filled from pipe lines running up the mountain. At one of these stops Billy Brehm took a picture of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>In about two hours the summit was reached and the pilgrims, feeling none the worse of the trip, left the car and mingled with the crowd of tourists of whom there were now five carloads at the top. The view from the Peak was a magnificent one or rather a series of them.  Spread before us on all sides was a panorama which included 60,000 square miles of territory.  Colorado Springs sixteen miles distant and Manitou nine miles down looked like gardens laid out in square beds.  To the south were the Seven Lakes, the Raton mountains of New Mexico and the famous Spanish Peaks or twin breasts, the cities of Pueblo, Florence, Canon City and Altman, the latter being the highest incorporated city in the world. Cripple Creek, from whence on the average 25,000,000 dollars in gold is annually shipped, seemed to be but a short distance away. As Cripple Creek was to be our objective point to-morrow, it possessed a more than passing interest to us.  To the West was the range of Sangre de Cristo mountains, topped out with snow.  In the northern direction lay the city of Denver, but owing to haziness in the atmosphere, it was not visible to us to-day.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Under the lee of the stone building at the top quite a lot of snow was lying which was utilized by some of the party to make snowballs which accidentally found their way among some of the numerous groups that were posing to have their pictures taken.  There was also plenty of snow in the crevices down on the side of the Peak. A couple of the Seven Lakes had every appearance of being frozen over, as the railroad employes said they actually were. We did not get close enough to them to make sure of the fact.  The building at the top is occupied by the United States Observatory, a restaurant, photograph gallery, telegraph station and another souvenir shop. In the store and the restaurant highway robbery is committed in the most unblushing manner.  Samples of coffee, sandwiches and pie were doled out at fifteen cents per sample with plenty of sauce from the waiters as condiments. The attendants on store and restaurant had evidently never been taught that civility costs nothing or that sugar catches more flies than vinegar.  A number of telegrams were sent from the station and Petzoldt was not satisfied with less than seven to his own share.</P>
028.sgm:<P>That the world is after all but a small place was evidenced by our meeting on top of the Peak, Chief Engineer James C. Baxter, of the Philadelphia Fire Department.  He had gone West with another commandery and was, now on his homeward trip like ourselves.  He received a cordial greeting from many of our fraters who knew him well.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Just before 1 P. M. the several trains made preparations to descend. As they pulled out to the starting platform there was a wild scramble for seats regardless of the train upon which the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:ascent had been made.  A regular football scrimmage ensued at each car door as it came down and the cars were filled with more than their complement, only to have the surplus weeded out by the conductor who would only allow the seats filled. They finally got off one by one, the engines backing down in front to do the holding back act.  They had not proceeded far down the mountain before one of the engines was disabled by bursting a steam pipe. It had to be side-tracked on a little spur of track farther down. As the succeeding trains came down they were obliged to take on a proportion of the stranded passengers who had to stand in the aisle.  Baxter was one of the unfortunates, but took the matter philosophically. At a telephone station, where we waited for orders, a little <illus entity="a028-0122" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Summit Pike's Peak</P>
028.sgm:<P>Just after starting down quite a young man, who had been particularly active at the summit, darting here and there with his camera and having all sorts of fun, collapsed in one of the cars. A doctor and several of his friends bad hard labor for an hour to get him into shape again, the breath seemingly having left him for good.</P>
028.sgm:<P>About half-way up is a printing office from which the Pike's Peak Daily News is issued. When we left the station at the foot a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The foot of the mountain was reached a little after 2 P. M. At the station was a mob of Boston tourists which scrambled and gouged for a seat in the cars to make the ascent, equal to the crowd at the top who had desired to come down.  One trip of the kind appears to satisfy most all of the party. They were glad to be able to say that they had been up Pike's Peak, but did not especially hanker after a repetition, at least just at present.  Quite a number of the pilgrims secured burros for a ride back to the train, but the majority were satisfied with the trolley cars. Luncheon was still on tap for them and was quickly disposed of, as time appeared to be precious.</P>
028.sgm:<P>In the meantime those left down in Manitou had also been enjoying themselves.  Some had been shopping both in Manitou and Colorado Springs, which is soon reached by trolley.  Rides to North and South Cheyenne Canons, the Garden of the Gods and up the Ute Pass.  The last is the route of the old Indian trail through the mountains, used for centuries back, but is now broadened and made into a fine driving road.  The example of the leftovers was quickly followed by the Peakers after luncheon.  Carriages were in demand as well as burros, the ladies taking to the latter form of conveyance with great gusto and all being anxious for their pictures to be taken while on one. Maneely and Simpson and their wives were photographed on burros in the shadow of the balanced rock in the Garden of the Gods and Maneely's burro has been swaybacked ever since.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Rides were also taken through Williams Canon to Williams Cavern and up the Ute Pass to the Cave of the Winds. These are decorated with stalactites and stalagmites and curious formations like the Luray Cave.  Down in the cavern, Mrs. George Kessler ran into a friend, in the dim candle light, whom she had not seen for years, another evidence of the smallness of our earthly habitation.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Afternoon and evening many took the trolleys to Colorado Springs, whose fine stores had great attraction for the ladies.  Some of the Knights called at the office of the Colorado Springs Gazette and were given a joyous reception by Col. George Nox MacCain, who was formerly a member of Governor Hastings' military family and well known in Philadelphia Masonic circles.  He is now president of the Gazette Publishing Company.  After showing the boys through his new quarters he announced that he had a telegram to the Commandery from St. Louis, which he proceeded to read, a$ follows:</P>
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028.sgm:<P>St. Louis Sept. 15th, 1904. Mary Commandery, Knights Templar, Colorado Springs, Col.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Pennsylvania State Building, ladies' reception room, at your disposal for headquarters during your stay in St. Louis.</P>
028.sgm:<P>THOMAS H. GARVIN.</P>
028.sgm:<P>This proved a welcome invitation to the ladies in the morning, as it assured them a resting place at the World's Fair, and Col. Garvin came in for a goodly meed of praise.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Arrangements had been made with the Colorado Midland for our trip to Cripple Creek to-morrow in return for their kindness in giving us trackage at this point. About 10 P. M. a party of bulldozing railroad men from the Colorado Short Line made an appearance in the smoker headquarters and tried to induce us to make a change in our arrangements. They were sent to the right-about by McIntyre who gave them his opinion in no undecided terms.</P>
028.sgm:<P>There had been a thunderstorm up on the Peak this afternoon which cleared the air considerably. Some of the Boston Commandery were seen after dinner at the Cliffe House, who said that their party had suffered very severely from the rarity of the atmosphere while up on the mountain and that more than half of them had been affected thereby.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Midnight had come and gone before the last of the pilgrims returned from their evening tramps and toiled their weary way up the steep hill to our train.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0123" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Laguna, New Mexico</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Saturday, September 17, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>LATE to bed and early to rise was the motto of the party this morning.  A special train was to call for us right at home this morning at 8.15 A. M. and two hours before that time all were astir. Anticipation ,of our ride to Cripple Creek was partly the cause, but many also wanted to get another ride on a burro this mornIng and jolly parties were on view at the station platform at an early hour.  Harry Heist made his appearance clean shaven and was hailed at once as Father Moriarity, dressed up in a raincoat backwards and mounted on a horse to have his picture taken as one of the original Mission settlers.  The horse belonged to the agent of the burro stables here, who had called to bid his customers of yesterday goodbye. While he was talking the horse was utilized for rides up and down the hill.  There were numerous demonstrators of the art of fancy riding, especially the boys, Frank Reese and Harry Hinckle, Jr., Billy Ray and Jim Keller also managed- to ride to the bottom of the hill and back without killing the horse.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The morning had opened crisp and fresh and all were in good spirits for the ride of forty-five miles ahead of us.  Meanwhile another detachment of burros was brought up the hill and short trips made on them and poses for pictures taken thereon.  Mrs. Crist was beguiled into getting on one, thinking her husband was going with her on another.  As her steed moved off down the hill alone she made tempting offers to one of the colored porters to lead him by the bridle, but Harry had his berths to get in order and was obliged to leave her to her fate, but the burro brought her back all right.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Promptly at 8.15 A. M. the special drew up beside us and was as promptly occupied.  It consisted of two closed cars and an observation car entirely open. Seats in the latter were at a premium in short order. The price held but for a few minutes after starting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:and then fell away below par.  Within the first couple of miles we passed through eight tunnels, and the clouds of smoke and barrels of cinders that drove into the observation car from the two engines that were pulling us drove all but a half dozen into the other cars. It was also very cold there, but the few who stuck it out professed <illus entity="a028-0125" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Father Moriarity</P>
028.sgm:to enjoy life in the open air much better. After a short ride in the open country up the Ute Valley the road enters a mountain gorge through which it runs for miles.  The tendency is upward all the time and a grade of four per cent. or over two hundred feet to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>All through the mountainous ride to-day the sides of the hills were marked with prospect holes looking like woodpecker holes in the sides of the trees.  Sometimes up near the top, again in the centre and close to the bottom you could see where dozens of miners or prospectors had dug into the hills a little way in search of the root of all evil and left their marks in the shape of little heaps of debris.  <illus entity="a028-0126" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Cripple Creek Railroad</P>
028.sgm:<P>After getting out of the gorge the remainder of our journey was simply a succession of the wildest and most romantic scenes imaginable. The evergreen of the trees that lined most of the hills mingled well with the colors peculiar to the mountains and with the dashing little waterfalls and the numerous quiet lakes or ponds formed a series of never-to-be-forgotten pictures with the rugged rocks towering over all. As for curves there is probably no railroad in the country that can equal it. The train was continually twisting in and out like a snake, thus presenting a change of scenery all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The first town we passed was Gillette, a typical mountain mining camp. Five miles further on we began to find the paying gold mines and entered the true field. Rounding Bull Hill many mines were in full view at one time, most of them having their names painted on signs on the hoisting derricks.  The names are of all varieties, such as Isabella, Pharmacist, Acacia, Vindicator, Lillie and Victor., From this point on the gold producers were as thick<illus entity="a028-0127" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>City Cripple Creek</P>
028.sgm:<P>Cripple Creek was reached at 10.40 A. M. and the pilgrims divided up in parties to do the town, and for the next hour and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Luncheon had to be provided for here, and there were plenty of places to secure it.  The National Hotel was called upon by a few, but most of the party patronized the cafes and restaurants on the main street. The Delmonico was the entertainer of about one- half the crowd, who were well supplied both in quality and quantity.  One side of the restaurant was partitioned off into booths or boxes to accommodate four persons.  If you ate in a booth you must eat a quarter's worth or pay that amount anyhow, as you were informed by a Sign over each one. If you occupied a toadstool at the counter you simply paid for what you ordered. The chinaware was a relic of the stone era.  Although spotlessly clean and of pure white, it was all a full half inch in thickness and of generous size, being probably used as ammunition in case of a riot or an attack on the restaurant.  The first course of soup resulted in a generous bowl of good home-made article, the eating of which precluded taking any more lunch on the part of a good many. An order for beef- steak brought in enough meat for three men, with a full measure of potatoes to match.  The dessert of rice pudding was served in individual pans, in which it was baked, about six by nine inches in size and full two inches deep.  Apple dumplings resembled a small football and they had twisted doughnuts four inches by eight by actual measurement.  Everything was of the best quality, however, and no one had occasion to go hungry from the Delmonico. Either breathing the rarified air above ground or working in the depths of the earth must breed excellent appetites here if we can judge from the ordinary bills of fare supplied at the restaurants.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Another constitutional around the town was necessary to settle our luncheon and then we strolled back towards the train.  A deserted gold mine just back of the main street still had all its paraphernalia in good order above the ground and its picture was taken as a sample of the work necessary to carry on operations.  At 12.45 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Going back through the Ute Valley tunnels we reached Manitou to find that our train had been run down to Colorado Springs Union Station, preparatory to leaving to-night for Kansas City.  The special took us down to the same location after leaving off some of the party at Manitou who wished another trip around that town.</P>
028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0128" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Gold Mine, Cripple Creek</P>
028.sgm:<P>There being plenty of spare time, about twenty-five of the party resolved to take another burro ride through South Cheyenne Canon. They boarded a trolley and were soon at the entrance to the Canon.  Here a difficulty ensued in regard to fitting out the party with animals. One-half the burros were equipped with side saddles which were of course appropriated to the use of the female contingent, but they would have none of it.  They were rough riders and would ride hairpin fashion or not at all. The consequence was that most of the men had to use the side-saddled burros and learn to hang on by one leg.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0129" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Manitou Cavalry</P>
028.sgm:<P>Meanwhile the other pilgrims, many of whom had fallen very much in love with Colorado Springs were making a farewell round of the city. A few slight showers fell, accompanied by high winds, but did not dampen their ardor in the least.  The stores were the principal attraction, but the Antlers Hotel, one of the best known hostelries in the country, had many visitors and admirers. Trolley rides were taken all around the city and the crowd seemed loth to give the place up finally.</P>
028.sgm:<P>McIntyre and Keen, like many others who wanted to be fresh shaved for Sunday, drifted into a barber shop.  Finding the proprietor also furnished baths, they asked if he could accommodate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>By 6 P. M. the party began to drift into the train for dinner and all were on hand before 7 P. M., when we were scheduled to leave. We did not get off, however, until 7.30 P. M., at which time the train started out on its long trip to Kansas City. The crowd was tired out with the two days' outing around Pike's Peak and was unanimously of the opinion that a party has seldom had the experiences crowded into two days that they had just finished enjoying.</P>
028.sgm:<P>After dinner for some time all were busily engaged from the smoker to the rear of the train in relating events that had occurred. Later on in one of the cars a German picnic was held, at which Mrs. Kessler, Mrs Eiler, Mrs. Miller and Mrs. Schuehler were hostesses.  Bologna and Sweitzer sandwiches, sweet pickles, lemonade and other good things were daintily served.  In another car progressive euchre again held sway by invitation of Mrs. Charles Reese and Mrs. Harry Reese.  The winners of prizes were Miss Pride, Mrs. Hinckle, Mrs. Crist and Messrs. Sheibley, McCoy and Bair. Thus came to an end two days of varied pleasure, interest and instruction that have seldom been equaled and naturally all were sorry to leave Manitou and Colorado Springs with their interesting environs.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Sunday, September 18, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>AFTER a storm comes a calm. Following the adventures  and strenuous life of the past week we expected to quietly spend this day in rest, as it naturally should be.  The more so as we expected the two succeeding days to be scenes of renewed activity at the World's Fair. Consequently there was not so much early rising  as  usual.  This state of affairs was accentuated by the fact that we had again picked up an hour of our lost time in the night by advancing eastward.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 6.30  A.  M.  we passed through Kingsley.  At this hour the Rovers were promptly on hand for their morning meal with the exception of Judd. At the first call for breakfast at 7 A. M. there were many vacant seats, which was an anomaly On this trip.  We were now running through the great Kansas corn belt and a fine pastoral country it was.  Everything looked peaceful and undisturbed on this fine Sabbath morning.  The weather was also peaceful, as it was getting warm and there was little air stirring.  We had got down to level ground again during the night and had no rarified air to contend with.  Stopped at St. Johns at 7.40 A. M.  Just beyond this station there was a flock of wild pigeons that arose from a cornfield containing thousands of the birds. This used to be one of the most common sights in the West, but the slaughter of the birds wherever they had a roost has been such that the sight is now a very uncommon occurrence.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At Hutchinson at 9 A. M. we were enabled to get out for a short walk, being obliged to wait for a train coming in the other direction. The walk was cut still shorter by the unexpected quick arrival of the train. At 10.15 A. M. we made another stop at Newton, where we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>At 1.15 P. M. we passed through Osage City, where they were mining coal on both sides of the track. It was a very hot afternoon and the Commissary had ordered his shop to be closed all day, not only on account of the day, but also because we were passing through a Prohibition State. Sundry sly hints that he gave out here and there as to the consequence likely to happen if any deputy sheriffs or constables should come on board the train were swallowed in some cases hook and line and afforded Mac some of the heartiest laughs he has had on this trip.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At Emporia this afternoon during the few minutes we had on the platform Jim Keller made a speaking acquaintance with a young lady who was standing there with some friends. His fraters kindly warned the young lady by shouting from the windows id platforms "He's married" and "We'll tell your wife" with other encouraging remarks.  He finally borrowed a Mary pin and presented to the lady just in time to jump for the train as it moved off. The young lady was so taken by Surprise that she hardly expressed her thanks. Thinking to express them more fully she sent a letter to the Commandery containing them.  We had thought to print the letter in these pages, but as she describes Jim therein as old, fat and bald-headed we refrain from doing so out of regard to his feelings.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 4.40 P. M. we pulled into Kansas City's Union Depot and vacated the cars for an hour or two for a sight of the city. We were told that our train should be in waiting for us again at 6 P. M. in time for our dinner. With this understanding the party sought the outside of the station and took trolley cars indiscriminately as they happened along. So quickly was this done that we failed to receive notice that two special trolleys were in waiting for our use and consequently could not avail ourselves of the courtesy tendered by our Missouri fraters.  One car going north ran its passengers into a Blackville suburb from which they quickly retraced their way ad went eastward into a fine quarter of the city.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Many of the restaurants and light lunch wagons downtown had Chile con Carne posted up as one of the attractions of their bills of fare. The trolley cars of every branch were overcrowded and reminded us very much of the elastic trolleys of our own home. Shortly after 6 P. M. everyone gathered into the station expecting to walk into the train and partake of dinner.  But a careful search of the tracks revealed no Mary train.  Minute after minute passed and stretched into an hour, but there was still no sign of the missing cars.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Interviews with station agents, train dispatchers, railroad agents and anybody with brass buttons on his coat, resulted in no satisfaction.  The agent of the Missouri Pacific, which was to take us in charge from here to St. Louis, was finally coralled in a second story office of the building.  He pretended to talk over a phone to the yards where our train was side-tracked and promised to have it very shortly.  Very shortly proved to mean another forty minutes ad our people were meanwhile roosting around on baggage trucks, trunks or anything else that came handy.  It being Sunday night, we were inclined very much to agree with David, who said in his haste that all men were liars.  If David had amended his assertion by saying all railroad men he would have gotten our unanimous vote.</P>
028.sgm:<P>It was 7.40 P. M. when our train at last pulled in and allowed the pilgrims to find comfortable seats and get to work at their belated meal.  At 8.30 P. M. the train pulled out again and ran a couple of miles down the track for another stop, halting beside a suburban train full of noisy Sunday excursionists.  Our Commissary department had opened up after leaving the station and we were besieged by the young people on the other train with requests for a cooling draught of any kind.  At another stop made a little further on a number of tramps, who tried to beat their way to the Fair, had to be chased from the trucks by the train hands several times before we got away without them.</P>
028.sgm:<P>It was an elegant moonlight night, but sharp lightning was playing around the horizon. The weather was hot, our tempers had been still hotter at the station, but a good dinner and cooling refreshments later on reduced us to our normal state.  Later on we ran into a heavy rain storm.  The patter of the rain on the roofs and car windows made us feel thankful that we were under shelter. A vote of thanks were formally returned to Billy Matos for his share in securing headquarters at the Pennsylvania Building at the Fair. The Night Owls were in full force in the smoker to-night and exchanged reminiscences until a late hour.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Monday, September 19, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>RAINING fiercely when we awoke this morning. It was a bad lookout for our first day at the Fair and it had every appearance that it would keep up until after we had pulled into the Union Station at 6.30 A. M.  While lying there the clouds broke away and it fortunately remained clear during the balance of the day. and evening. Breakfast  had  been advanced a half hour in order to give us all the time possible through the day. The second half being urgent in requests to the early birds not to dally too long over their morning oatmeal and mush.  As a result the meal was over long before we had reached the location at which we were to be sidetracked. We did not know where this was to be when we went into the station and were afraid to have anyone leave until it was known, so that all would know here to look for us to-night. It proved to be at Pastime Park, where the Terminal Railroad had a yard for the stowage of its spare cars.</P>
028.sgm:<P>To reach there we were taken over the Belt Line road and made the entire circuit of the city in so doing.  Down along the muddy Mississippi, past the levee with its now infinitesimal fleet of river steamers, past all the lumber yards and sawmills in town, iron foundries and all other kinds of industrial buildings, we ran over to the butt end of nowhere.  Thai was Pastime Park.  It was not a great distance from the Fair Grounds, but some muddy streets had to be traversed before reaching the trolley cars that ran that way, unless you walked two blocks down the main line of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>It was well on to 9 A. M. before the last of the pilgrims struck out for the Exposition, all reaching there without any greater mishaps than muddy shoes.  Automobile rides and runs around the intramural railway were first in order to get the lay of the land somewhat.  There was land enough to satisfy almost ,anybody, as the weary tramps between buildings did not rest one partIcularly after strolling up and down aisles for an hour or two. Taking the cars on the railway did not improve matters much, as its stations were located about midway between buildings and involved much walking.</P>
028.sgm:<P>It is not our purpose to attempt any descriptions of the FaIr buildings or their contents, as they have been fully ventilated in the newspapers.  We will note, however, that wherever anything was to be found on sale in the buildings you would find a hook-nosed individual in charge of the sales or overlooking the returns from the same. Any old price was asked for the souvenirs of all kinds and if you gave more than half of what was demanded you got well stuck.  We were to stay all day and evening in the grounds and consequently had to lunch and dine there.  There was where the legalized highway robbers got their work in again.  Except at the Inside Inn, where you got a fine meal at reasonable rates, all the other large restaurants on the grounds had made up their minds to allow their owners to retire after the Fair was over and they lived up to that requirement.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The various exhibition and State buildings were fully explored. The Pennsylvania Building was a handsome one and nicely fitted up, but was given rather an obscure location on a back alley of the Inside Inn.  The big policemen guarding the Liberty Bell looked very natural and homelike, especially the big Matzoth with the huge nose that guards the crossing at Juniper and Market streets. They were very tired of their job and longed for the time when they would be relieved.  Everybody entered their names in the big register in the reception hall and checked their umbrellas and wraps which the hot and clear weather made unnecessary.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The buildings were the main attention until closing time, and then the Pike had full sway for the evening.  There was not much new there.  The same old barkers and fakirs, the same old Arabs and camels in procession, the same old hooche-kooche shows occupied the floor and drew the same old quarter or half dollar.  The fire-fighters gave a good exhibition and some of the other shows had good features. The illuminations at night were on a fine scale, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>The Filipino exhibition was one that attracted a great deal of attention and gave much satisfaction.  The concert that the civilized residents or Visayans gave drew fine audiences all day long. They gave exhibitions of their national dances, sang their native songs, accompanied by their own orchestra in very good time, and acted little pantomime plays. When they wound up their show by playing and singing the Star-Spangled Banner in very good English and perfect time, they aroused their audiences to an enthusiastic pitch. When you were informed that the performers knew no English six months previously their present attempts seemed really remarkable.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The Negrotes and Igorotes were, of course, of a much lower intelligence.  They could ascend a lofty tree in their grounds with the agility of a monkey and slide down again as quickly as a snake. The naked little rats who shot at nickels with bow and arrow had learned to bid the people who got in the line of their shots to "stand back" and to exclaim "pretty, good" when their aim at a nickel proved true. Jake Haines adopted a little wild scion of the Igorotes for a couple of days and had his picture taken as protector of the infant.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We could tell now that we had got within reaching distance of home by the numbers of friends and acquaintances we would run across in the Fair, many of whom were members of Mary. But all were too busily engaged to waste time in more than a passing greeting and inquiry as to what kind of times we had had. It was a late hour when the bulk of the pilgrims returned to the train tonight. The train hands had been amusing themselves by watching the captive balloon go up and down inside the enclosures, seeing the reflection of the illuminations and the searchlight as it was projected around the country and down into the city.  Gasoline flares had been placed in a line within view of each other from the train to the trolley cars to guide the pilgrims, and Charley Stump remained for a long time at the road to point them in the right direction.</P>
028.sgm:<P>By midnight but a few remained out. One party came up the railroad and were driven off by a Wabash train, to the infinite alarm of Mrs. McIntyre who thought her last hour had come. One belated couple did not reach the train until nearly morning, having taken a wrong turn from the trolley and lost their way. There was no policeman in sight and they tramped over half the suburbs of St. Louis in a vain attempt to locate either themselves or the train. Just as they had about given up in despair they saw the banner of Mary on the side of the smoker.  Tiptoeing along the train to get in without their late arrival being known, they found every vestibuled step shut in tightly. While trying to rap on Haines window <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0132" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Devil's Ink Well</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Tuesday, September 20, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>BECAUSE it was to be our last day in St. Louis seemed to be no reason why there should be any hurry about turning Out this morning.  Everybody went to bed tired out last night except the party of smokers and the lost couple, and they retired early this morning. Most of the party was out bright as dollars again, although the weather was still very hot. The sun came up clear and started in immediately to attend to business.  Prior to leaving the train orders were isued that all the pilgrims should meet at the Pennsylvania Building at noon, as arrangements had been made to have a photograph of the entire party taken on the steps of the building.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Quite a number of the party took the trolley cars down to the heart of the city to-day before going .to the Exposition.  They wanted souvenirs of St. Louis in addition to those from the Fair, and had to make the rounds of some of the stores to secure them as well as to make some purchases on the Club account.  It was a long ride to and from Sixty-sixth street to Fourth, and the morning was all too short for the necessary. business, but some little time remained for sightseeing before the rendezvous at. the Pennsylvania Building. But the crowd began to drift in to that point toward the noon hour, where they found that the official photographer, William H. Rau, of Philadelphia, had his assistants with an immense camera and tripod set up in the road in front to take a 14x17 photo, which would distinctly show all the faces of those taken on it, Some little time was taken to group the party, during which time Custodian Garvin had the building closed to visitors and the big policemen tried to keep all intruders from the steps.  But with all precautions three or four ringers managed to get into focus when the shutter was snapped.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>Immediately after the picture was taken Eminent Commander Stewart requested all the pilgrims to gather in the Ladies' Reception Room, which had been set aside as the Commandery's headquarters. There he announced that it would be proper for the `Frisco Club to extend thanks to Colonel Garvin for his hospitality to them. The suggestion was immediately approved and, on motion of Past Commander Heist, a committee consisting- of Heist, Eiler and Matos was appointed to draft resolutions of thanks. The committee, after a short session, returned with the following resolution, which was read and unanimously adopted:  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
028.sgm:<P>When Colonel Garvin was called in, and Sir Stewart presented to him the resolution, he thanked him for the courtesy and said that no greater pleasure could have been afforded him than to be able to extend to the pilgrims of Mary Commandery the use of the building.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Nearly all the party took their luncheon to-day at the Inside Inn, it being the most convenient place after the meeting just held, and had the pleasure of seeing a quick response made by the World's Fair Fire Department to an alarm coming from the Inn.  Sitting around on the chairs of the front porch enjoying a smoke after their lunch, the party thought the firemen were running to exercise their horses, but it was afterwards found that a genuine alarm had been turned in for a slight blaze in the kitchen.  Fortunately it was easily put out without the aid of the department which had responded quickly and in goodly numbers.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The afternoon and evening were a repetition of yesterday, so far as sightseeing and search after amusement on the Pike were concerned. The Filipinos again received a large Share of attention and the camera fiends took special delight in reproducing their counterfeit presentments.  Nor did the islanders object, having no doubt gone through a long courses of training in that respect since the opening of the show.  Last night each section of pilgrims had seen something that laid over anything in the grounds. Upon exchangIng experiences these were found to be far apart, and to-day they exchanged and visited each other's pet hobbies and endorsed or condemned their opinions. It was so hot yesterday that every one who had carried wraps around all day without needing them and with manifest discomfort, resolved to leave them at home to-day, especially as the weather this morning proved a continuation of the same. About 3 P. M. to-day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>There was a wide difference of opinion in regard to the Boer War exhibition. Some thought it, with its genuine Boers, real, live Englishmen and machine guns, the most realistic scene that could be put on the stage. Others claimed it was nothing like the real thing. So you paid your money and took your choice.  All were pretty unanimous, though, about the fruit exhibits in Horticultural Hall. For size, quantity and beauty the grapes, apples, pears and other exhibits were unequaled. Some of the States had built fine pavilions and made grand exhibits of fruits, both fresh and canned or bottled.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Our train was to be returned during the afternoon to the Union Station, from which point we were scheduled to leave at 11 P. M., so that it was necessary to leave the Fair by 10 P. M. Some of the tired ones began to leave after getting dinner at 7 P. M. The Terminal Company had been running trains between the grounds and Union Station regularly at all hours, which had got to be called the shuttle trains from being constantly shot back and forth over the one track. The cars were built like freight cars, with a sliding door on the side for entrance and rough seats with straight backs. if you did not get a seat there was plenty of standing room. But a few minutes were necessary to reach the station where the early comers had a wonderful sight in the crowds of people who jammed the station until 10 P. M., although being sent off by train loads every few minutes.</P>
028.sgm:<P>For size, our Broad Street Station and Reading Terminal could be put inside and nearly lost. There are thirty-two tracks with platforms between, and the electric engines of the Terminal road have to bring in and take outside all trains to keep smoke and gas out of the building, which is a somewhat dark and forbidding-looking place, although the roof is lofty and covered with skylights, which leaked in great shape during our stay here yesterday morning. There was an outer space, open to everybody, which was black with people, who could scarcely move or turn on account of their number. Sliding gates admitted those whose train was shortly due to an inner space, which was still fenced off from the train shed.  From this another examination of tickets allowed the fortunate holders to get to their trains when they pulled in.  Two high flights of steps leading to bridges, which crossed to the upper floor of the station and led to the streets, allowed incoming passengers to get through without mingling with those who were outward bound.  On each bridge was a man with a megaphone, who announced in each direction the name of the train which was coming in and the number of the track on which it was located. For two or three hours it was a more wonderful show to watch the crowds arriving and departing from the station than it was to wander around the fair grounds. There was a Bureau of Information down stairs that was well named, as it kept all the real information <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Again we had an offer to be sent out ahead of the regular train if all our party should be on hand a few minutes ahead of its starting time.  Of course there had to be three or four loiterers to keep us on the anxious bench for the final quarter of an hour. But they sauntered in within three minutes of the time and we were started out promptly with a clear track ahead at 11 P. M. Notwithstanding the fact that it was a dead tired party of pilgrims, no one seemed disposed to retire early.  All realized that we had but one more night to spend on the train, and it was long after midnight when the relation of experiences and funny incidents ceased to resound through the cars. John Robbins was prepared for an attack on his department when the train came in, and the commissary was never so crowded as on that night. A proof of the picture taken to-day had also arrived at the train, and that was an additional inducement to remain up and give orders for the same.</P>
028.sgm:<P>After the ladies had retired from the smoker, that car was the scene of an improvised "Night in Bohemia" for another hour. Songs and stories of the trip, good, bad and indifferent, made the time pass pleasantly until the fraters were compelled to seek their berths for a few hours' sleep. So came to an end our two days at the World's Fair, crowded to the last moment with instruction and pleasure.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">Wednesday, September 21, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>COOL and pleasant weather  greeted  us  this morning as a fitting climax  for our last full day upon the train, which had become so much like home to us. Everybody had been tired out last night and slept well during the few hours they had to rest.  We arrived at Indianapolis  at  6.40 A. M.  Our schedule allowed us an hour and a quarter stop here, but as the hour was too early to see much, and there was little to be seen anyhow, it was resolved to cut the time short and take in an additional hour in Pittsburg this evening. Ervin Hope had resolved to take the back track from here to Chicago and visit a son who was living there, and left us at this point to make the trip. After breakfast the pilgrims packed their trunks for the last time and had Stump check them for their home addresses,  We passed through Richmond, Indiana, at 8.45 A. M.  A short walk outside found the air crisp and cool even in the sun.  Our streak of hot weather had been left behind somewhere for good.  The country through which we were riding this morning made a fine showing as an agricultural district. In the orchards the trees were so laden with apples that the limbs had to be propped up.  Corn was of a surprising height, and the fine fields of tobacco gave much encouragement for future pleasure to the occupants of the smoker. Soon after leaving Richmond, we crossed the Ohio line and reached Dayton at 10.05 A. M. The next short stop was at Lima at 10.30 A. M. Much regret was expressed this morning that the pilgrimage was drawing so nearly to a close.  Many wished that it was just beginning, and not a few would have liked to go right out over the same grounds again.</P>
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028.sgm:<P>There was a number of pretty features connected with the morning ride. The pilgrims of car C presented Doc. Wells with a handsome travelling satchel as a token of their esteem, and in grateful remembrance of many kindnesses shown them.  Charley Bair was spokesman for the donors, and the doctor, in accepting the gift, said it would be a constant reminder to him of the many pleasant hours spent on the San Francisco pilgrimage.</P>
028.sgm:<P>The ladies of car A had planned a surprise for Mrs. Allen, but before it was over, several others were Sprung.  While down town in St. Louis yesterday Mrs. Holt, acting as chairlady of the conspirators, led the crowd to the souvenir spoon case in a large jewelry store, ostensibly to increase her stock of spoons. Asking advice from her companions, she took one selected by Mrs. Allen, another by Mrs. McIntyre, and a third by Mrs. Stewart, as the prettiest in the case.  Nothing more was thought of Mrs. Holt's collection until to-day, when the ladies were called together by Mrs. McIntyre, who had some remarks to make. Addressing the President of the Auxiliary as "Mother Allen," she referred to the pleasant associations of the trip, as well as many others, and asked her to accept from the ladies a token of the esteem and love which they all felt for her. Mrs. Allen, who was much affected by the surprise as well as the manner of the presentation, thanked the ladies for this and all other kindnesses showered upon her during the trip.  She then turned to Mrs. Stewart and furnished her with another Surprise by presenting a box containing a testimonial to her from the ladies of the car. Mrs. Stewart also returned her thanks for the remembrance and for the pleasant time she had, adding, "I would like to take another trip like it right now." Mrs. Allen then turned to Mrs. McIntyre and administered the thirds knock-out by begging her acceptance of a like testimonial from the ladies of the car in requital for the pleasure she had afforded them by her company on the trip. After Mrs. McIntyre had feelingly responded, each of the recipients fell to examining their presents, and each found the spoon of her own selection at the store yesterday. Three more surprised and grateful ladies would be hard to find.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 11 A. M. every one was called to meet in the dining car for special business.  When all had assembled, Eminent Commander Stewart administered another solar plexus blow by presenting to Sir Knight McIntyre, on behalf of the entire club, a handsome cut- glass punch bowl with ladle and cups and base, stating that the whole was a slight testimonial of the appreciation by the pilgrims, male and female, of the laborious work performed by the Commissary on this pilgrimage. Mac. was so much affected by this thoughtful remembrance of his fellow travellers that he could not respond for a few moments, but recovered himself shortly and gave vent to his thankfulness in a short speech. For a half hour afterwards he was kept busy by the individual pilgrims, who wished to also personally thank him for his many kindnesses to them.  Mac. also had a little innings of his own by presenting to Dr. Wells a handsome <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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028.sgm:<P>Columbus was passed through just at noon, as the luncheon was announced. After lunch the train appeared to be making such good time that Billy Henderson and some others in the smoker amused themselves by timing it from mile post to mile post with their stop-watches.  For a long distance we ran more than a mile a minute, in some instances as low as fifty-three seconds.  Dennison was the place of a short stop at 2.15 P. M.  Ten minutes later we passed through a dry oil field.  Hundreds of idle derricks dotted both hills and valleys, some of them quite new and sound, and others that had fallen into decay. A little later a succession of tunnels was encountered, so close together, that the lights were kept lit for some time.</P>
028.sgm:<P>We ran into the station at Pittsburg at 4.10 P. M. and were booked for a stop of three hours. Everybody went out for a look at Pittsburg, and most of the party took trolleys as the best medium for a sight of the city. It was after 5 P. M. now, apparently closing time for the business houses down town, and the streets were full of hurrying throngs, pushing homeward.  Some of the party went for a final shot at the stores, among them being McIntyre and Allen, who sought a final plenishing for the commissary and remembrances for our Pullman conductors and Tourist Agent McCoy. The train hands had been taken care of by the committee during the afternoon. All tipping had been interdicted during the trip by the committee, and to-day porters, waiters, cooks and Charley Stump received their gratuities in a lump sum, which made them all feel good.</P>
028.sgm:<P>Harry Heist also left us at this point, having business to attend to in the morning. Seven o'clock found every one else back at the station ready to begin the final run for home. Here so of us were treated to another and quite a pleasant surprise by finding our old friend Brooks, who had been conductor of our dining car on our other California cruise twelve years ago.  He seemed as much pleased as ourselves to meet so many of his old friends and make some new acquaintances. He was now in charge of the station dining-room, and looked pretty much as of yore, except that he had grown stouter.  He had also taken our advice of twelve years ago and got married.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 7.10 P. M. the train pulled out of the station for Philadelphia, running as first section of the regular train at that hour.  At the same time the first call for the last dinner sounded.  It was a fine wind-up to the meals of the trip and was, as the menu indicated, given in honor of Sir Knight C. P. Allen and Mrs. Allen, the Chairman of the Committee of Ways and Means and the President of Mary Auxiliary Association.  Under their pictures on the obverse of the menu was the motto "Pleasant Memories" and in the lower corner the words, Pilgrimage of Mary Commandery No. 36, K. T., to San Francisco, August 22-September 22, 1904.  On the reverse side was the menu, as follows:</P>
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028.sgm:<illus entity="a028-0135" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PILGRIMAGE<LB>MARY COMMANDERY, No. 36, K. T.<LB>TO SAN FRANCISCO<LB>AUGUST 22--SEPTEMBER 22, 1904</P>
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028.sgm:<P>En Route Home from Triennial Conclave at San Francisco, Cal., 1904<LB><HI REND="bold">DINNER TO</HI>
028.sgm: SIR KNIGHT C. P. ALLEN AND MRS. C. P. ALLEN<LB>SOUPS <LB><HI REND="italics">Consomme Stewart</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Chicken Gumbo a la Brehm</HI>
028.sgm:<LB>FISH<LB><HI REND="italics">Baked Flying Fish</HI>
028.sgm: Caught at Catalina by McIntyre<LB>ROASTS <LB><HI REND="italics">Mary's Lamb--Eiler Sauce</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Stuffed Ostrich a la Maneely</HI>
028.sgm:<LB>ENTREES<LB> <HI REND="italics">Fritters a la Bair</HI>
028.sgm:<LB>VEGETABLES <LB><HI REND="italics">Kessler's Schuetzen Potatoes</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Hinckle's Oranges</HI>
028.sgm:<LB>SALAD <LB><HI REND="italics">Harry Heist</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Plain Bread</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Judd's Bread</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Brown Bread</HI>
028.sgm:<LB>DESSERT <LB><HI REND="italics">Cake</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Anna Price Ice Cream</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Marmalade</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Fresh Fruit</HI>
028.sgm:<LB> <HI REND="italics">Cheese</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Bent's Water Crackers</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Coffee</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Cocoa</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Tea</HI>
028.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Home, Sweet Home--"Gregory"</HI>
028.sgm:<P>DINING CAR CORONADO SEPTEMBER 21 1904</P>
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028.sgm:<P>After dinner the sleepers were the scenes of many farewell gatherings. In Car A a full house held a thanksgiving service, under the leadership of Doc. Shriner, for the completion of our pilgrimage without accident of any kind. Gregory led the singing portion of the services and all the pilgrims joined in with a will. At 9.30 P. M. we stopped at Johnstown where the party suffered another diminution by the departure of Mr. and Mrs. Crist who resided at that place.  It took them quite a long time to get around and say good-bye.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At 9.45 P. M. we passed long lines of coke ovens which lit up the sky with their red glare. It was a perfectly beautiful moonlight night and all remained up to have another good view of the Horseshoe Bend. As we drew near to the famous curve the lights in the train were turned low and the train slowed up to give bus as effectual a view of the moonlit scene as possible. It was passed in practical silence, so much did the beauty of the whole view affect the feelings of the lookers-on.</P>
028.sgm:<P>At Altoona at 10.30 P. M. a short stop was made, but little time was spent outside the train, as the weather Bad got extremely cold.  There was one of the Pennsylvania trains for the World's Fair just leaving Altoona.  No sleepers were on the train, but everybody had disposed of themselves in the chair cars in efforts to sleep and many queer postures were the result.</P>
028.sgm:<P>All meetings were adjourned to the smoker for comfort and extra blankets were ordered for the berths.  Many of the pilgrims bade one another good-bye before parting for the night, as some had determined to start for home as soon as we reached Broad Street -Station.  They promised to have a first reunion at the Auxiliary meeting on Wednesday night next and another on Field Day, October 1st, 1904.  In the thirty-one days that we had spent together, we had practically become one large family with all the family wants cared for by other people, nothing but good fellowship had marked the entire Pilgrimage of the 1904 Frisco Club of Mary Commandery and it was no wonder that all regretted the ending of a memorable trip. In the Club car, as it was generally called, farewell songs were sung until a very late hour, and when the final toast was given the refrigerators were closed down and locked for the last time.  The trip was then officially at an end and all hands repaired to their berths for the night.</P>
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028.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>09-22-1904</HEAD>
028.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Thursday, September 22, 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>The baggage and commissary cars were unloaded at an early hour and their contents taken downstairs. The Committee stripped the side badges off with the aid of some of the waiters who were on deck, but had to wait until 7 A. M. for a wagon to take the Commandery property over to the Masonic Temple.  Shortly after that hour not one of the pilgrims was to be found about the station. Thus came to an end a memorable tour of nearly nine thousand miles by the representatives of Mary Commandery No, 36, K. T. of Pa., which added one more star to the already lustrous crown of that body.</P>
028.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Roster of the Frisco Club of 1904</HI>
028.sgm:<P>MR. DAVID W. STEWART, Philadelphia.<LB> MRS. DAVID W. STEWART, Philadelphia.<LB> MISS ELEANOR F. STEWART, Philadelphia.<LB> MR. WILLIAM H. BREHM, Philadelphia.<LB> MISS ELIZABETH C. BREHM, Philadelphia.<LB> MR. CHARLES S. BAIR, Philadelphia.<LB> MRS. CHARLES S. BAIR, Philadelphia.<LB> MR. CLIFFORD P. ALLEN, Philadelphia.<LB> MRS. CLIFFORD P. ALLEN, Philadelphia.<LB> MR. WILLIAM McINTYRE, Philadelphia.<LB> MRS. WILLIAM McINTYRE, Philadelphia.<LB> MR. GEORGE KESSLER, Philadelphia.<LB> MRS. GEORGE KESSLER, Philadelphia.<LB> MR. HARRY H. HEIST, Philadelphia.<LB>MISS ADA M. HEIST, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. ALFRED K. GREGORY, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. ALFRED K. GREGORY, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. GEORGE EILER, JR., Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. GEORGE EILER, JR., Philadelphia.<LB>MR. HENRY Q. HINCKLE, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. HENRY Q. HINCKLE, Philadelphia.<LB>MASTER HARRY HINCKLE, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. CHARLES W. MILLER, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. CHARLES W. MILLER, Philadelphia.<LB>MR, JAMES W. BAIRD, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. JAMES W. BAIRD, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. WILLIAM HENDERSON, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. WILLIAM HENDERSON, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. LEWIS E. HERRING, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. LEWIS E. HERRING, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. JOHN K. KEEN, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. JOHN K. KEEN, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. J. E. M. KELLER, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. J. E. M. KELLER, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. WILLIAM H. MANEELY, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. WILLIAM H. MANEELY, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. LEWIS T. MATLACK, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. LEWIS T. MATLACK, Philadelphia.<LB></P>
028.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
028.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
028.sgm:<P>MR. JOHN MUSSELMAN, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. JOHN MUSSELMAN, Philadelphia.<LB>MISS ELIZABETH MUSSELMAN, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. OLIVER C. PRICE, Philadelphia.<LB> MRS. OLIVER C. PRICE, Philadelphia.<LB>MISS ANNA PRICE, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. WILLIAM I. RAY, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. WILLIAM I. RAY, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. CHARLES P. REESE, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. CHARLES P. REESE, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. HARRY D. REESE, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. HARRY D. REESE, Philadelphia.<LB>MASTER FRANK REESE, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. LEWIS C. SCHUEHLER, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. LEWIS C. SCHUEHLER, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. H. WILSON SHEIBLEY, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. H. WILSON SHEIBLEY, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. GEORGE W. SIMPSON, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. GEORGE W. SIMPSON, Philadelphia.<LB>P. FRAILEY WELLS, M. D., Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. P. FRAILEY WELLS, Philadelphia.<LB>THOMAS SHRINER, M. D., Philadelphia.<LB>MISS BESSIE SHRINER, Philadelphia.<LB>HARVEY M. RIGHTER, M. D., Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. THOMAS HOLT, Philadelphia.<LB>MISS MARY A. MCCUNE, Philadelphia.<LB>MISS MARTHA MILLIGAN, Philadelphia.<LB>MISS ELIZABETH PATTERSON, Philadelphia.<LB>MISS JULIA ROBINSON, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. JOHN T. SCHMIDT, Philadelphia.<LB>MRS. ELIZABETH SEARY, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. JACOB HAINES, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. ERVIN T. HOPE, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. CHARLES C. JUDD, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. GEORGE M. LAUDENSLAGER, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. CIIARLES MCNAMEE, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. WILLIAM W. MATOS, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. WILLIAM PATTERSON, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. LOUIS H. PETZOLDT, Philadelphia.<LB>MR. THEODORE F. LINES, Brooklyn, N. Y.<LB>MRS. THEODORE F. LINES, Brooklyn, N. Y.<LB>MR. JOHN B. CASE, Flemington, N. J.<LB>MRS. JOHN B. CASE, Flemington, N. J.<LB>MR. WILLIAM A. CRIST, Johnstown, Pa.<LB>MRS. WILLIAM A. CRIST, Johnstown, Pa.<LB>MR. JOHN F. BOWKER, Conshohocken, Pa.<LB>MRS. JOHN F. BOWKER, Conshohocken, Pa.</P>
029.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-029</TITLE>
029.sgm:<TITLE>Personal recollections: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
029.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
029.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
029.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
029.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
029.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>58-49107</LCCN>
029.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
029.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 225561</COPYRIGHT>
029.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of Early Days</HI>
029.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Personal<LB>Recollections<LB>of<LB>Harvey Wood</HI>
029.sgm:</p><P>With an introduction and notes by<LB>John B. Goodman III <illus entity="a029-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
029.sgm:1955<LB><HI REND="italics">Privately Printed: Pasadena, California</HI>
029.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT 1955<LB>JOHN B. GOODMAN III<LB>LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Note</HEAD>
029.sgm:<P>I WISH to thank the following people for their kind cooperation and valuable assistance, in the preparation of the introduction.</p><P>Mr. R. W. G. Vail, Director, and Dorothy C. Brack, Librarian of The New-York Historical Society; The New York Public Library; Carl C. Cutler, of the Marine Historical Association, Inc., Mystic, Connecticut; The Marine Research Society, Salem, Massachusetts; Caroline Wentzel, formerly Librarian of the California section of the California State Library, Sacramento; Eleanor Bancroft, of the Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, California; Wilbur Smith, James Mink and Ralph Lyons of the University Library, University of California at Los Angeles; Glen Dawson, Dawson's Bookshop, Los Angeles; and especially, Percy Wood, of Melones, deceased; Mervyn Wood, of Melones; and Mrs. L. G. Davis, of San Francisco.</p><P>IT IS planned that from time to time, under the heading<HSEP>SCRAPS OF CALIFORNIANA, to issue in a limited number, books or pamphlets--some to be given as keepsakes, others to be for sale. These will be reprints of rare, or little known and generally hard to obtain material dealing principally with the early history of the State of California. This is<LB>SCRAPS OF CALIFORNIANA, No. 1.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Introduction</HEAD>
029.sgm:<P>John B. Goodman III</p><P>THIS LITTLE OVERLAND and Californiana nugget written in 1878, and published in 1896, is so scarce that Mr. Cowan, the author of <HI REND="italics">A bibliography of the history of California 1510-1930</HI>
029.sgm: did not know of its existence, and the eminent Dr. Henry R. Wagner, had never seen or heard of it until 1936. Probably the reason for this was the fact that only twelve copies were printed.</p><P>Edna Bryan Buckbee had access to a copy, for in 1932, in her <HI REND="italics">Pioneer Days of Angel's Camp</HI>
029.sgm:, she quotes very briefly from Wood's <HI REND="italics">Recollections</HI>
029.sgm: and states that it was "printed by Myron Hill Reed of Angel's Camp newspaper, <HI REND="italics">Mountain Echo</HI>
029.sgm: 1900." Again in her book <HI REND="italics">The Saga of Old Tuolumne</HI>
029.sgm:, 1935, in the bibliography she gives the date as June, 1878, as mentioned in the text on the last page of Wood's book. This date actually was the year that Wood wrote it, and most likely, as so many were that year, written at the request of Hubert Howe Bancroft, who was gathering data on the early history of California for his well known thirty-nine volume <HI REND="italics">Works</HI>
029.sgm:, and perhaps it was never sent in as there is no allusion to Wood, or his <HI REND="italics">Recollections</HI>
029.sgm: in Bancroft. Both Buckbee dates are in error as it will subsequently be noted.</p><P>It was on July 27, 1937, and a broiling hot day in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:Stanislaus River canyon, that I stopped at a little roadside store on the Calaveras County side of the river in a small settlement called Melones, the name being larger than the place. This was the site of the old Robinsons Ferry, on what is today Highway 49, between Jamestown and Angels Camp, in the heart of the Mother Lode country. There I met and had a long talk with genial Percy Wood, the second son of Harvey, who operated this store, built near the site of the old Ferry House which had been destroyed by fire in 1909. Percy was born and spent his life at the ferry and the following facts are a few that he related to me:</p><P>In 1896, the year following his father's death, the old homestead burned to the ground, destroying everything, including many valuable papers, records, account books, pictures and so on. By some means that he could not recall, the manuscript of his father's <HI REND="italics">Personal Recollections</HI>
029.sgm:, "which we used to refer to as his `diary'," was all that survived. In order that it too should not be lost, and that a record of his father's overland trip through Mexico to California in 1849, and of his life at Robinsons Ferry, might find its way into friendly hands and be preserved, Carlton Wood, Percy's elder brother, took the manuscript that same year to the old Mountain Echo Job Printing Office, Angels Camp, Calaveras County, California, and had twelve copies printed.</p><P>Today I know of but one other copy to have survived the years. There is a possibility that a third copy may also have weathered the times. At least this one copy has found its way into friendly hands, and to see that Carlton Wood's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:wish is carried out, it is once again entrusted to the printer for a slightly larger edition, and a more dignified format be fitting its contents. The spelling and punctuation has been retained as in the original.</p><P>Harvey Wood was born in Bedford, Westchester County,New York, November 13, 1828, one of a family of four sons and two daughters, of Alfred and Electa (Fountain) Wood. At the age of fifteen Harvey Wood left home in New York, and for five years was employed as a clerk in a store in New Jersey.</p><P>"It is January 1849, hope sparkles in every eye--joy beams upon every countenance--all look bright and smiling, and give no token of the horrible future that must and will come (to many of them). Gold--Gold--California--California--California is the merry shout of thousands...every vessel bound out teems with our best as well as the very worst of our citizens--they are as sanguine as though they already had their pockets filled with the shining metal which has allured them....</p><P>"Our citizens are mad, stark staring mad. ... A vast mixed population are crowding to a particular region far removed--all are animated by one absorbing desire--to get gold; they have no other motive....</p><P>"Every mail, every ship and steamer that is now reaching this great city, comes loaded with new and strange tales of new found treasures; and the gold fever rages more and more--is hourly on the increase--and hundreds who two weeks ago laughed at the idea of going to California are now selling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:property, sacrificing their business, and rushing forward to fulfill their destiny.<ANCHOR ID="ni-1a">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-1a">Excerpt from the New York <HI REND="italics">Daily Herald</HI>
029.sgm:<P>In this atmosphere of excitement, young Harvey sometime after January 17, 1849, joined one of the many California gold mining associations then being formed on the Eastern seaboard. The following advertisement appeared in the <HI REND="italics">New York Tribune</HI>
029.sgm: for the above date:</p><P>"OVERLAND TO CALIFORNIA--The Kit Carson Association <ANCHOR ID="ni-2a">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: to be composed of young men of good health and character is now forming--we invite particular enquiry into plan of the journey and the method of mining proposed by this association....</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-2a">This association was named after the famous Christopher (Kit) Carson, frontier scout, indian agent, trapper, guide and mountain man, 1809-1868. He had no connection with this Association.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>On February 6, 1849, in the California column of the <HI REND="italics">New York Tribune</HI>
029.sgm: appeared this ad:</p><P>"FOR CALIFORNIA VIA TEXAS,--Starting positively for Galveston on the 12th inst. in the fine packet ship William B. Travis. We get ourselves (all expenses paid) two mules (valuable in mining as men) and three months provisions each to California early in May for $110 per man. Full particulars by D. Hough, Jr., 1 Front st. President of the Carson Association."</p><P>"N.B. The Association meets this evening at 7 o'clock, at fourteenth Ward Headquarters, Grand at corner of Elizabeth st. Members pay their passage this day. List of membership still open."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<P>On Tuesday, February 13, 1849, under command of Capt. Balles, the Connecticut built full-rigged ship <HI REND="italics">William B. Travis</HI>
029.sgm: less than a year old, and built for the Galveston Texas cotton trade, sailed for that port from New York, with the Kit Carson Association.</p><P>Of the hundreds of organized companies that were to leave for California, during the year 1849, the Kit Carson Association was among the very first to sail for the gold regions.</p><P>The lure and desire for gold must have been overwhelming and among the many perils confronting the eager gold hunters, that of the cholera was one of the greatest. The Asiatic cholera, which had made its appearance along the Atlantic seaboard early in the winter of 1848, began its ravages on those parties moving by the Southern routes, and the worst attacks occurred at the end of February, and the hardest hit were Brownsville, Laredo and San Antonio.</p><P>The Carson Association was singularly fortunate in the fact that they lost but one member from this dreaded cause, while all around them the mortality was fearful.</p><P>The first emigrants to leave for Corpus Christi, were advised (by the promoters) to proceed by way of El Paso del Norte, but because of the difficulties met along the way "they were forced to cross the lower Rio Grande and travel through Mexico." There were many signs of the late war with Mexico, still to be seen, "the ground was still strewn with grape shot and cannon balls and fragments of discarded accoutrements" and a great many American deserters and renegades were met with as well as Indians.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<P>Remnants of the Kit Carson Association seem to have taken a route from Monclova to Jimenez followed by very few parties. This route while nearly five hundred miles shorter was a hazardous short cut, through an arid, barren waste country, and it probably was seldom ever considered, and never advocated. The more favored way was to travel to Monterey by the way of Roma, and Mier, hence to Parras; or from Monclova, south to Parras, hence in a sweep to the west and north to de Guajuquilla, (Jimenez) where the trail joined with the short cut Wood speaks of. At approximately the same time the Carson Association was in this vicinity, the Audubon party was present, but they traveled by the way of Monterey, as did A. B. Clarke, a member of the Hampden Trading and Mining Company of Westfield, Massachusetts, and later J. E. Durivage, a correspondent for the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Daily Picayune</HI>
029.sgm:. Some of the other companies to undertake the trip through Mexico, to California at this time and place, to name but a couple, were The Essex Overland Mining and Trading Company, of Boston, Mass.; the Mississippi Rangers, of Aberdeen, Miss.; the Berkshire and California Mining Company, of North Adams, Mass.; and an unidentified company from Georgia;<ANCHOR ID="ni-3a">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: also the Mazatlan Rangers,<ANCHOR ID="ni-4a">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:presumably a Massachusetts association, who arrived at Corpus Christi, from New Orleans, late in January.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-3a">Probably the Kinney Rangers, a California company of forty persons under the command of Captain Walter Harvey, who were in Corpus Christi buying mules and horses, the same time the Carson Association was there.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-4a">The Mazatlan Rangers, were composed of two divisions. Company No. 1, presumed to be from Massachusetts, and had forty-eight members, under the command of E. W. Abbott. Four members were left behind at New Orleans. Company No. 2, probably was formed in New Orleans, and consisted of fifteen members, made up of a heterogeneous crowd, several of whom were foreigners. They were under the command of Captain Meyer Helfer (?). The two divisions were to join forces at Corpus Christi, but apparently never did. Short of Laredo, Company No. 1 split into six separate parties; three traveling the desert route taken by Wood.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>Proceeding from Corpus Christi, what was left of the Kit Carson Association<ANCHOR ID="ni-5">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: in due time arrived at Cuatro-Cienegas, where they joined forces with the remnants of the Hampden Trading and Mining Company and of the Mazatlan Rangers, who it would appear were traveling this same short cut, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:John H. Peoples acting as guide, and who apparently had now decided to go to the gold fields himself.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-5">The Port Lavaca <HI REND="italics">Journal</HI>
029.sgm: of (March) 9 says: "A company of gentlemen from New York, arrived here on Saturday last [March 3] by [the] steamer <HI REND="italics">Yacht</HI>
029.sgm:<P>"This company is a portion of the [Kit] <HI REND="italics">Carson Association</HI>
029.sgm: [Division No. 1] which left New York on the 13th [of February] but after arriving at Galveston, on their way to the Rio Grande, this portion became satisfied that they were on the wrong track, changed their course and came this way. The route they propose to go is by San Antonio, Fredericksburgh, San Saba, Concho, Paso del Norte, and the Gila. They will undoubtedly find a good wagon road the whole route, with plenty of game, grass, and water: and a more healthy, pleasant, natural route of that distance cannot be found on earth. If they meet difficulty, it will be from inexperience in campaigning. They will probably get to the gold regions before their companions and with half the cost and danger.</p><P>"They left this place on Wednesday last [March 7] for the `diggins.' They intend examining the San Pedro and Prieto rivers, and if they find gold enough there, they will go no further. May their visions of adventure and gold be more than realized.</p><P>"There will probably be 1000 persons on the route between Lavaca and San Francisco, by the first of next May.</p><P>"The following named persons compose this party: George W. Harper, B. H. Howell, Jonathan K. Newall, Chauncey P. Caufield, William H. Larkin, William M. Bevins, James Everitt, Wesley Gilbert, <ANCHOR ID="ni-1b">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: A. W. Dyar, [Dayer?], James Q. Adams, David Burkhalter, Charles L. Lincoln, John A. Hull, and *John Kates."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-1b">(*A. W. Dayer, Michigan, and John Hates, Apalachicola, Florida, were not original members of the Company.)</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>"Four companies left Lavaca, Texas, on the 16th [March] for California. These were: The Defiance Company from Defiance, Ohio**<ANCHOR ID="ni-2b">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm:; the Clarksville Company from Clarksville, Tennessee, a company from Natchez,***<ANCHOR ID="ni-3b">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: consisting of thirty members; and a company from East Mississippi,**** <ANCHOR ID="ni-4b">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: composed of fourteen men." New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Delta</HI>
029.sgm:, March 27; reprinted in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
029.sgm:, April 7, 1849.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-2b">(**Defiance Gold Hunters Expedition, later name changed to Ohio Company;</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-3b">Natchez California Company; ****Mississippi Mining and Trading Company.)</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>By the time these various companies traveling through Mexico, reached Chihuahua, they were all thoroughly inter-mixed and traveling in small parties.<ANCHOR ID="ni-6">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: So it was with Durivage and Wood, the latter with only fifteen of the original Carson Association's members. Both Durivage and Wood arrived in the city the same day--May 1, 1849.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-6">Fractions of the Mazatlan Rangers, fractions of fractions of A. B. Clarke's Hampden Trading and Mining Company now under the guidance of Dr. William T. Brent, (much against his will, having refused the command earlier). In this party was J. E. Durivage, the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Picayune</HI>
029.sgm:<P>Peoples probably traveled with the party as far as Warner's Ranch, where he turned off at the fork in the road going to San Diego, with those who wanted to travel the rest of the way by vessel. He was in San Diego over the Fourth of July,<ANCHOR ID="ni-7">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: and no doubt took part in that uproarious celebration held <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:at the Plaza in Old Town, and participated in by the Boundary Commission. Wood spent the Fourth near the Pueblo of Los Angeles. When the first of these mixed companies finally reached the mines, the balance of the members were strung out along the back trail for 500 miles.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-7"><P>"The Fourth of July was celebrated with much spirit in San Diego." The Mexican Boundary Commission came to the Plaza from the <HI REND="italics">Caroline</HI>
029.sgm: at noon, and Major Emory read the Declaration of Independence in English, Mr. Gahegan. in Spanish. Colonel Weller delivered the oration, speaking on the spirit of 1776 and 1812. The address ended, they all moved off in a procession to the plains for a barbecue. The ladies who heeded the procession soon retired after partaking of the meats, as did most of the Americans, the latter after imbibing copiously of the spirits not alluded to in the oration. Whiskey barrel heads were stove in and boxes of gin cracked out. The Indians were invited to partake of what was left, and they went after it tooth and nail. Thee Indians were soon loud in their demonstration of America and Americans. Towards night they paraded through the streets, with a tattered American flag, and drum and fife, cheering for the people and Government of the United States.</p><P>The festivities were concluded with a grand ball, given at the adobe home of Don Juan Bandini. The ladies of the officers, and of the California residents of San Diego, together with the officers of the Army, the Boundary Commission, American and Mexican, and the American citizens being present.</p></NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>Arriving at the southern mines July 30, 1849, Harvey Wood began seven years of mining and prospecting, beginning along the Merced River, but very soon he decided the rich country around Carson Hill, on the Stanislaus River, was the place to make his strike. He reached Robinsons Ferry August 15th, and made it his headquarters. Like most miners of the day he appears to have rushed from one strike to another, and it would seem that he usually was one of the first on the site of a rich strike. I believe that he must have worked for the owners of Robinsons Ferry in between prospecting ventures. Percy Wood said that his father, while operating the ferry was quite friendly with Joaquin Murieta. This famous bandit's exploits covered the period between 1850 and 1853, and Wood could have known him, and certainly he heard plenty concerning this character's many wild deeds, as Joaquin was mining at Murphys Diggings, in Calaveras County, in April of 1850 and as late as 1852, and was much in evidence around the neighborhood of Columbia and Angels Camp, and even Indian Creek, just below Robinsons Ferry. "My father" continued Percy, "was quite friendly with Joaquin, and for a very good reason. Joaquin in return was careful that nothing should happen to the man who made it possible for himself and his members to rapidly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xviii</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:cross the river when the occasion warranted, which seemed to have been quite often." Harvey Wood did not, however, buy into the ferry until 1856.</p><P>As has been told many times, and I repeat, John W. Robinson and Stephen Mead, partners, arrived on the Stanislaus River in 1848, establishing a trading post and a ferry across that river from Calaveras County to Tuolumne County, and linking Angels Camp and Carson, to Tuttletown, Jamestown, and Sonora on the opposite side. This ferry was also the most direct from Stockton to these latter places.</p><P>According to J. A. Smith, the historian, "They first had a small boat capable of accommodating foot passengers... the buildings connected with the ferry have always been located on the Calaveras side of the river, the old ferry house was destroyed by fire in March, 1909."</p><P>"The Ferry House" as it was popularly called was a two story structure, where people traveling from one county to another could stay overnight if they wished. Inside were kept a number of early day relics, and writings of Harvey Wood, and which it seems survived the fire of 1896, only to be destroyed when this famous old landmark ironically was set afire by workmen staying there during the construction of the bridge which was to take the place of Wood's cherished ferry boat. The workmen were a little overzealous in their labors to change an era, a careless cigarette was blamed for the inadvertent fire.</p><P>Emmett P. Joy states that the Mead interest was obtained by George Graham in 1853 for the sum of $10,000; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xix</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:a man named French obtained it a little later, and eventually conveyed it to Wood. Harvey Wood bought the Robinson interest in the ferry in 1856, and continued to operate it all the rest of his life.</p><P>Percy stated that his father planted the first pear trees in the State adjoining the ferry, but what he most likely meant was, the first pear trees in Calaveras County. At any rate he had quite a number of very fine pear trees, and no doubt, "did a good business in supplying the travelers crossing the river as well as others" with the fruit from these trees, many of which were still flourishing there in 1937.</p><P>In the early days these ferries were an important asset to the community, as well as being very lucrative for their owners. In 1849 the miners paid into the coffers of the ferryman at Robinsons Ferry, for ferriage across the Stanislaus River, $ 10,000 in a six-weeks period. A little further down the river as late as November, 1850, more than 100 heavily freighted wagons passed through Knight's Ferry enroute to the mining towns beyond, and stretching in an uninterrupted line nearly forty miles long over the countryside leading to Stockton.</p><P>By 1853 there appears to have been approximately twelve ferries operating on the Stanislaus River, all doing a more or less thriving business. They all changed hands from time to time, the new owners giving new names to them. Robinsons being one of the exceptions in the latter respect until recent times. In 1854 Robinsons Ferry had an assessed value of $9,100; Abbeys Ferry two miles east of the present Parrotts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:Ferry bridge was assessed at $8,000. In 1855, Keelers Ferry, just west of the present Knights Landing, was sold for $12,000.</p><P>By 1854 there was one bridge over the Stanislaus River, that located at Knights Ferry, and by 1856 supposedly another of the suspension type. But there were five bridges over the Mokelumne River, just to the south, and five over the Calaveras River to the north.</p><P>Travel over these ferries for years after the height of the gold rush had passed continued to be very heavy. Robinsons Ferry, earning for its owners as much as one hundred and fifty dollars a day. This settlement is now called Melones, but in 1849 the gold camp of that name was two miles to the west, and had a population varying from three to five thousand persons. A very rare mineral, a telluride of nickel, mined near here and called Melonite, is named after the town of Melones, and is found in but very few parts of the world. Today a fine looking marker, erected by the California Centennials Commission, with a stone base furnished by the Angels Camp Lions Club, May 22, 1949, stands near the old site occupied by the ferry buildings. Previous to this, October 9, 1937, it was one of five historic sites marked in Calaveras County by the Director of and for the State Department of Natural Resources, George D. Nordenholt.</p><P>Harvey Wood was interested in mining all of his life, and from the early 1870's on was agent for the South Carolina Mines, and for many years was owner of the Adelaide Mines, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:named for his wife, which had a reputation for being the richest in the country. From a space of four square feet he took out $1,000. He was also the owner of a ranch of 160 acres. Elected to the Board of Supervisors of Calaveras County, in 1873, he represented his district until 1883, when he refused longer to serve as an official of the County. His unswerving honesty of purpose and aggressive character were felt in every department, and the people of the whole County felt this loss. In 1879 he was appointed Postmaster at Robinsons Ferry and held that position to the end. He was a Democrat and one of the most substantial citizens in Calaveras County.</p><P>Miss Marinda Adelaide Gee, of Harlow, New Hampshire, <ANCHOR ID="ni-8">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: came to San Francisco to visit a sister that had come to California for her health, and who was acquainted with Wood. They were introduced by the sister, and were married shortly thereafter in San Francisco in 1864. It was a deep and lasting love, and Wood named everything possible for her, every new ferry boat was named <HI REND="italics">Adelaide</HI>
029.sgm:. They had three children, Carlton, Percy, and Allie, (Mrs. John Egan). A younger brother of Harvey's, James A. Wood, of New York, (May 20, 1835-November 18, 1906) also resided at the ferry.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-8">This is given as her birthplace on the tombstone. other sources as well as Mrs. Davis state that she was a native of Massachusetts.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>The death of Harvey Wood, on March 12, 1895, in his 66th year, was somewhat sudden and followed but a few days of illness. The funeral took place the following Thursday, the remains being buried in the family plot in the Altaville Protestant Cemetery. People from all parts of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:county attended the last rites, anxious to pay their tribute of respect to his memory. The funeral was one of the largest ever seen in Angels Camp. He was survived by his widow, two sons, a daughter and two brothers.</p><P>His widow continued to live at the ferry for some time. Having resided at the ferry for over fifty years, she decided to move to Angels Camp, where after a few years she passed away June 2, 1923, at the advanced age of 89 years and 9 months, having been born on October 8, 1833. She was buried in the family plot in the Altaville Cemetery.</p><P>Carlton H. Wood, the eldest of the three children, was born at Robinsons Ferry, October 26, 1866. He died January 18, 1940, and is buried in the Altaville Cemetery. He is survived by his widow Elizabeth Wood, living at Angels Camp. There were no children.</p><P>Percy Wood, the second child was born September 9, 1870, and lived at Robinsons Ferry (Melones) his entire life. He had served as a member of the County Democratic Central Committee for many years, and as Postmaster of Melones for twenty years and for sixteen years operated a general merchandise store. He died at his home following a short illness, Sunday, January 23, 1944, the committal being made in the family plot in the Altaville Cemetery. He is survived by his widow, Mrs. Ethel Carthy Wood, of Melones; a daughter Mrs. Vera F. Carley, of Angels Camp, born February 18, 1903; two sons, Mervyn R. Wood, born September 21,1911, (?)of Melones; and Harvey P. Wood, of Oakland, born October 8, 1899; also a sister, Mrs. Allie <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:Egan, of San Francisco; and a grandson; William Wood, of Melones.</p><P>Mrs. John (Allie Wood) Egan, the daughter, was born at Robinsons Ferry, September 10, 1874. She married Mr. John Egan, of San Francisco, where she lived until her death, October 30, 1948, and the entombment, at Cypress Lawn Mausoleum, San Francisco. She had one child, a daughter, Adelaide M. Egan, (Mrs. L. G. Davis), born at Angels Camp, December 26, 1899, and now residing in San Francisco.</p><DIV><HEAD>LIST OF MEMBERS OF THE<LB>KIT CARSON ASSOCIATION<LB>OF NEW YORK.</HEAD>
029.sgm:<P>THE FOLLOWING LIST is from the New York <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
029.sgm:, February 14,1849. The names marked with an asterisk are not in that list, but appear in the C. W. Haskin list, page 431, of <HI REND="italics">The Argonauts of California</HI>
029.sgm: New York, 1890. The names and initials where different in parentheses are as given in Haskins; those marked with a dagger are from a partial list in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
029.sgm: of April 7, 1849, 1-3. D. Hough, Jr., the President, remained behind. His name with several others does not appear in the Haskin list.</p><P>D. Hough, Jr., President<LB>Anderson, W. T., Secretary<LB>(Ackley, G.) Ackerly, Charles<HSEP> of N. Y.<LB>Adams, James &dagger;Q. Monroe, Michigan<LB>*Backstet, Jr. C.<LB> *Bassaid, N. H.</p> <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:<P>Baxter, Charles<LB> Bevins, Wm. M. (A. W. M.) &dagger;N. Y. City<LB>Bennett, James L.<LB>Bessy, W. H.<LB>Bohn, William E.<LB>Boyd, John J.<LB>*Burkhalter, D&dagger;avid Boonsboro, Md.<LB>*Carroll, J.<LB>Caufield, Chauncey T. (F) &dagger;P. N. Y. C.<LB>Clark, H. H.<LB>Clement, (S) Charles<LB>Davidson, Charles R.<LB>Downing, John H.<LB>Enles, Walter &dagger;<LB>Eales, W., N. Y. C.<LB>Everett, J&dagger;ames H., New York City<LB>Frost, William S.<LB>*Fouse, Jacob M. of Baltimore<LB>Gilbert, W&dagger;esley, C., New York City<LB>(Gray) Grey, George W.<LB>*Hall, J. A. &dagger;Hull, John: Morristown, N. J.<LB>Harper, (J) W. G. &dagger;Geo. W., N.Y.C.<LB>Higgin, H. M. Hinckley, (J) W. H. Hitchock, John Howell, B. H. &dagger;Buffalo, N. Y.<LB>Huyler, Abraham of Keyport N.J.<LB>*Kensett, G. [eorge]<LB>Kiggin, W. M., probably Higgin <LB>Knevels, H. K.<LB>Larkin, William H. &dagger;N. Y. City <LB>*Lincoln, G. L. &dagger;Chas., Syracuse, N.Y.<LB>Marsh, John F.<LB>Miner, John &dagger;New York City<LB>Moffit, James<LB>Nash, Gaines H. Nash, J. F. Newell, J. R. (K) &dagger;Newall, K. Johnathan, Boston, Mass.<LB>Osborn, Alonzo<LB>Osborn, Edwin <LB>Osborne, James M.<LB> *Platt, J. R.<LB>Reeves, H.<LB>Reeves, T. R.<LB> *Revels, U. <LB>Rice, Epam?<LB>Ricker, A. S.<LB>Ricker, Peter<LB>Ricker, John J.<LB>Smith, W. H. &dagger;Samuel H., N. Y. C.<LB>*Soule, A. G.<LB>*Sumner, W. L.<LB>Taylor, A. S.<LB>Turner, Antonio Wallin, J. Wood, Harvey of New Jersey</p><P>NOT MEMBERS</p><P>Gridle, Henry<LB>*Lake, J. S.<LB>Wilson, E. G., Miss.</p></DIV>
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029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>List of Illustrations</HEAD>
029.sgm:<P>Map. Route thru Mexico to California,<LB>inset, mining district drawn<LB> by John B. Goodman<HSEP>end papers<LB>Portrait Harvey Wood<HSEP>facing page 1<LB>Portrait Adelaide Wood<HSEP>8<LB>Robinsons Ferry, the ferry house<LB>and home of Harvey Wood<HSEP>9<LB>Reproduction of Protection Paper<HSEP>12<LB>The Harvey Wood homestead<HSEP>16<LB>The ferry boat <HI REND="italics">Adelaide</HI>
029.sgm:<LB>Robinsons Ferry<HSEP>17<LB>Reproduction of Mexican Passport<HSEP>24</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<illus entity="a029-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HARVEY WOOD, Nov. 1828, Mar. 1895<LB>Taken in late 1880's or early 1890. Native of New York. Came overland in 1849.</p></CAPTION>
029.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>1</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<P>Reminiscences of<LB>Early Days<LB>by Harvey Wood</p><P>PERSONAL recollections of Harvey Wood, who left New York, February 13th, 1849, for the gold fields of California, as a member of the "Carson Association," a company organized in New York City, in January, 1849, to proceed to California, via. Galveston, Texas, thence overland to the gold mines.<ANCHOR ID="n1">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: The company consisted of fifty-three members, from several States in the Union. We had no property in common, the object of the organization being for mutual protection during the trip overland. We sailed from New York on board [the] Ship William B. Travis,<ANCHOR ID="n2">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: and arrived at Galveston, Texas, February 28th, 1849. The passage occupying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:only fifteen days, made the time rather short for our mixed company to get well acquainted with each other, but most of us being young men, looked forward to realizing a fortune in two or three years after arriving in California. During the passage all kinds of preparations were made for the prosecution of the journey after reaching Galveston; some busied themselves making tents, others, who considered their outfit for the journey complete, were preparing buckskin purses or bags in which to keep their gold dust. Some of the bags made would hold at least one hundred pounds of gold dust. One young man after exhausting his supply of buckskin making bags of large dimensions, concluded that if the pay gravel did not contain more than one shovelful of gold to one hundred of dirt, mining in his opinion would not prove an entire failure.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1">From Galveston, they were to ascend the Brazos, to San Felipe, and form a caravan for the Paso del Norte, then cross over the mountains to the Gila River, and follow Lieut. Emory's trail to San Diego.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2">She was a three-mast, full-rigged ship with two decks and a billet head, 569,28/95 tons; 133 feet 5 inches long; a 30-foot 8-inch beam, and drew 12 feet of water. Medium model, deck cabin, built at Portland, Connecticut, by Gildersleeve &amp; Son, in 1848. She seems to have carried no other gold seekers after this trip.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>The person who first conceived the idea<ANCHOR ID="n3">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: of getting up the Carson Association in New York, was going to act as Captain and guide of the Company and pilot us through in good shape, he had maps of the various routes posted up in his office and to hear him explain how easy it was to make the journey from Texas overland to California, most any one would look upon it as a pleasure trip, then he manifested so much interest in our welfare, advising us very particularly as to the necessary articles to take along as our outfit, "needles and thread and vest buttons," he considered indispensable articles. On passing the Narrows coming out of New York, we found our Captain and guide had given us the slip, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:fact, he found it more profitable to get up Carson Associations than to seek his fortune in California.<ANCHOR ID="n4">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3">This was a typical promoter of the time, taking advantage of the gold fever, D. Hough, Jr. by name.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4">Hough, waited only two days before he started advertising, "The second division of the Carson Association... is now forming." This Company sailed less than a month later, March 10th. The very next day he started the formation of the "3rd. division," and still later the fourth, and by this time letting the prospective members "see one of their wagons in complete trim"; something must have happened however, for in late April, nothing more is heard of either this last Company, or of Hough, Jr.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>The estimated expense of the trip from New York to the gold mines of California for each member was $150. The amount was sure to pay all necessary expenses. Our Captain and guide promised to land us in the mines, each the owner of two mules and three months provisions. The mules he thought would be good property in the mines; we could use them to pack our gold dust to San Francisco.</p><P>Our Captain and guide, who remained in New York, was well posted in affairs on the Pacific Coast at that time, and I have often thought what an ornament he would have been to the profession of Stock Brokers on California street had he found it to his interest to visit the Pacific Coast.</p><P>Before leaving New York each member had fitted himself out according to his fancy and means. The outfit of several was so singular and ridiculous that many a laugh was indulged in while looking over the articles, but which the owner, on leaving New York, considered actually necessary. While Mr. Taylor<ANCHOR ID="n5">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: (who by the way was going to California to recover a fortune he lost in the Soda water business, all the profit having been lost on corks and bottles), had at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:great expense purchased a patent gold washer, with cogwheels, and capacity enough to hold two or three loads of pay gravel. The washer Mr. Taylor was determined to convey overland to the mines "or leave his bones on the road." Another of the company had a complete blacksmith outfit, including bellows and anvil, that he was equally determined should reach the mines at the same time its owner could date his arrival.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5">Mr. A. S. Taylor, after no doubt, having his try at gold mining, returned to the soda water business. He is listed in LeCount &amp; Strong's Directory of San Francisco for 1854 as having a factory on the corner of Jessie and Jane streets.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>During the trip to Galveston, four of us agreed to mess together until we arrived at the mines. Jacob M. Fouse,<ANCHOR ID="n6">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: of Baltimore, Charley Ackerly, of New York, Abraham Huyler, of Keyport, N. J., and myself, a clerk from Jersey City, on looking over our baggage found that we, like the rest, had a large amount of useless trash. We had a five story gold washer,<ANCHOR ID="n7 ">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: that is, five sets of sieves, one above the other, graded from very coarse to fine and warranted to catch all the gold, fine or coarse, for had it not been tested thoroughly in New York to the satisfaction of an admiring crowd with a bucket of sand and scraps of lead thrown in--not a particle of the lead escaping during the washing process. Then we had axes, picks and shovels and even a ten-pound crowbar, and last, but not least of all, a box containing various acids, duly bottled and labeled, so that no bogus gold could be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:played on us; for with our valuable box of acids we were not to be fooled.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6">Jacob M. Fouse was a tinsmith by trade, and is believed to have died in 1856, in or near Grass Valley, California.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7">A variety of fantastic devices called patent gold washers, were "invented" to separate the prospective gold hunter from his ready cash. Some were made of copper, iron, zinc and brass, some were worked by crank, the more pretentious two cranks, and some with a treadle. Some were upright forcing the panner to stand, while others by their design allowed the tired miner to sit in comfort as he supposedly made his fortune.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>From Galveston we proceeded to Corpus Christie<ANCHOR ID="n8">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: by steamer and schooner. Camped on the heights back of town. At this point our camp life commenced and I took my first lesson in getting up a meal, thought I was doing splendidly and was congratulating myself on the extra style in which I cooked the steak, but my mode of seasoning with powdered sugar instead of salt, hardly suited the rest of the mess and they unanimously agreed that I had considerable to learn before they could class me as a good cook.</p><P>Our company had a few members who advised organizing in military style to insure our safe arrival in California. They managed to have themselves chosen as officers, then commenced the drilling of us raw recruits. We actually had guards stationed out day and night, going through all the forms of a soldier-life. The trouble was we had too many officers for the number of privates. Playing soldier did not last long after leaving Corpus Christie. We found that after traveling through the heat all day and getting into camp, tired and hungry and not an Indian within fifty miles of us, to be ordered out to stand guard, soon brought the reply from me "that if Mr. Lieutenant wished any guard he could stand it himself, I should not." The consequence was, from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:that time on the military organization was in a great measure dispensed with, until it was actually necessary.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8">One of the starting places along the Gulf of Mexico, for emigrating parties going via Texas or Mexico, some of the others were Galveston, and Port Lavaca. Corpus Christi, at this period consisted of approximately 50 houses, with 500 inhabitants, and the outskirts of the town covered with the tents of newly arrived emigrants. Brazos Santiago, Vera Cruz, Port Isabel, and Tampico, were also starting points, but mostly by those going to California by the way of Mazatlan.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>From Corpus Christie to the Rio Grande, we hired wagons to haul our baggage, arriving at Lerado,<ANCHOR ID="n9">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: on the Rio Grande, our Company could not agree as to the proper way to proceed, some wished to use wagons and some were determined to use pack mules. Our mess with some sixteen others favored the pack-mule mode of traveling. The wagon party could not sacrifice their large gold washer and blacksmith shop; on that point the great Carson Association divided. Our famous five-story gold washer we apportioned among the Mexican women, where it no doubt was of more service than it could be in the gold mines of California, for I have now lived nearly twenty-nine years in the mines, have seen many and various kinds of gold washers, but none that resembled our five-story New York machine. While at Lerado, on the Rio Grande, the cholera<ANCHOR ID="n10">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: made its appearance among the United States soldiers stationed near the place. After crossing the Rio Grande a few of our company were suddenly taken with the dreadful disease, proving fatal, however, to only one, by the name of Clark, from Pennsylvania. The Mexican women were kind to our sick, and poor Clark received from them and from the members of the company, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:every attention that could be rendered, but all in vain, his time had come. His death and burial hastened our departure from that place.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9">This was one of the favorite points after leaving the coast, for the emigrants to disagree as to the best choice of a route overland to the gold region. If they had not already disbanded as a company, they were sure to after their arrival at this town. one adventurer wrote that: "Laredo, has about 1500 inhabitants, mostly half-breeds and niggers with a few Americans."</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10">The severity of the epidemic on the Western frontier, and on the frontier of Mexico was sufficient to intimidate the most courageous. The dangers and hardships of the road were not generally matters of complaint, but the cholera carried a degree of terror with it that caused the bravest to quail.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>The next place of any note we visited was Caudela, where we purchased our pack and riding mules, paying for them from $20 to $35 each. At Caudela we were highly complimented by the Alcalda; he considered us quite an intelligent party of Americans and really believed that if we could remain one year in Caudela, we would, at the expiration of the year, become sufficiently civilized to associate with the aristocracy of the place, in fact, he was satisfied that with proper training, we might be classed as equals of the Mexicans--superiors--never. While the American character was to the natives quite a study, the Mexican character was equally so to us; all I could see the men were good for, and nearly all they appeared to do was to ride on horseback, no matter if it was a mere hovel that they lived in, with a ground floor and but little furniture, the man must have his horse, all saddled and standing at the door, ready to mount and ride, if it was only to show off his skilled horsemanship.</p><P>After getting our mules and some supplies we managed to make a start, passed through Monclova, from there to Cinigas, where we found some Americans from New Orleans,<ANCHOR ID="n11">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: like ourselves, on the way to California. As we all left Cinigas in company, we made quite a show, numbering some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:forty men. I was pleased with our southern friends; many of them had been in the Mexican war and were used to roughing it. Arriving at a large Hacienda near San Catarina, we found the owners a little excited over a raid that had been made the night previous by the Comanche Indians. They had swooped down on his place and taken forty horses from his stock. The owners of the ranch offered to furnish all volunteers horses to ride if we would go with him in pursuit of the Indians. Sixteen of us accepted the offer; so, after mounting us on good horses, accompanied by sixteen Mexican lancers to help capture the stolen stock, we left the ranch about sundown, rode fast for a few hours, then camped until daylight, when we again saddled up. In a few hours we got on their trail which was quite fresh, but we failed to get sight of any Comanches. Captain Peoples,<ANCHOR ID="n12">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: of New Orleans, was our captain during the chase and told us not to depend upon our Mexican lancers in case we had to fight, as they would probably run at the first fire, but if attacked the lancers would fire once even if they did not send a bullet within twenty feet of an Indian. We failed to get sight of an Indian, therefore cannot say whether Captain Peoples' estimate of <illus entity="a029-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARINDA ADELAIDE GEE WOOD, Oct. 1833, June 1923. Married in San Francisco in 1864. She resided for over fifty years at Robinson's Ferry.</p></CAPTION>
029.sgm:<illus entity="a029-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW OF ROBINSON'S FERRY (now Melones) on the Stanislaus River, probably taken in the late 1880's. Road beyond leads to Jamestown and Sonora. Harvey Wood's home among the trees was destroyed by fire in 1896, and the ferry building on the right in 1909. Old ferry boat can be seen beyond. There is now a bridge over the river, and the site is completely changed.</p></CAPTION>
029.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:the Mexican lancers' Valor was correct or not. We were in the saddles from 5 o'clock in the morning until 11 o'clock at night, when we returned to the ranch pretty well tired out, without capturing even a poor mustang as a trophy.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11">This was no doubt, remnants of the Mazatlan Rangers of Massachusetts, who arrived at Corpus Christi from New orleans, January 20, 1849, and split up at Laredo, the latter part of March. They originally numbered 59; in two divisions, under the command of E. W. Abbott, with these were a number of persons from two or three other companies, making a total of 67.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12"><P>John H. Peoples was editor of the <HI REND="italics">Corpus Christi Star</HI>
029.sgm:. He was induced to act as guide, along with Colonel Evertson. for the Mazatlan Rangers, from Corpus Christi to Presido del Norte. He changed his mind apparently, and decided to go to California himself, taking the short cut upon which Wood met him. He was the pioneer of the American press in Mexico, and who was favorably known as an army correspondent, under the signature of "Corporal" and "Chapparal."</p><P>He later became well known in California. In the winter of 1849 he was in charge of a Government-financed relief expedition to aid the overland immigrants.</p><P>He was a passenger on, and lost his life, in the wreck of the <HI REND="italics">Arabian</HI>
029.sgm:<P>The first day's journey after leaving San Catarina I witnessed a new mode of farming, saw a man plowing with a wooden plow, not a particle of iron about it, also met one of their two wheeled carts with three yoke of oxen attached. The cart was made of wood and rawhide, the wheels were models of workmanship -- looked as if they were sawn off from a log some four to six feet in diameter and one foot in thickness, then punched a hole through for an axle and the wheel was complete. It required from four to six yoke of oxen to draw the cart lightly loaded. Their manner of hitching up the oxen was by lashing the rope to the horns with rawhide, ox bows not having yet been introduced to the farmer of Mexico. Then to cap the climax I saw a chap hoeing corn with a musket slung to his back, keeping one eye on his work, the other looking out for Comanches.</p><P>We arrived at the city of Chihuahua<ANCHOR ID="n13">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: May 1st, after a tedious journey, having taken a short cut over a dry, barren country, frequently forty to fifty miles between watering places. Found Chihuahua quite a city, but like all other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:places in Mexico, looked as if it had seen more prosperous days. We remained in Chihuahua until May 8th, had a chance to see all the sights, even to the afternoon drives of the aristocracy. Didn't they enjoy it though! Seated in a great, lumbering carriage of the style of one hundred years ago, with four mules hitched on, the driver riding one of the wheel animals, the occupants laying back with all the dignity, if not the grace of the cod-fish aristocracy, which we poor Yankees were bound to show off our independence by an occasional afternoon's ride, mounted on our almost broken down mules. Quite a contrast between our turnouts and the young Mexicans mounted on their gay steeds with all the trappings, fancy saddles, silver mounted bridles, never lacking the jingling spurs, without which the outfit would be considered incomplete. Another requisite for a first-class horseman, his pants must have silver buttons every two inches from the waist down on the outside of [the] leg, a firm easy and graceful position in the saddle no matter how much the steed may rear and plunge, the horseman is prepared to meet the carriage containing his fair one, or if permitted to ride alongside of the carriage, the grace and ease with which the horseman will raise his hat and salute the fair one, while the horse is plunging about enough to unseat any common rider, our caballero appears in all his glory; apparently capable of retaining his seat even if the horse should turn a double summersault. We remained in Chihuahua one Sunday, attended church in the morning and a bull fight in the afternoon and saw four bulls tortured and killed in the usual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:manner, but failed to enjoy the sport, as it is called by the natives.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13">Chihuahua, "City of the North," the Mexicans regard it second only to the Paradise their Padres tell them of, it is their pride and their delight, and is the capital of the State of the same name, and was settled towards the close of the 17th century by some adventurers for the purpose of working the rich silver mines discovered about that time. The city is regularly laid out, with broad and clean streets, some of which are paved. It contains handsome and well built houses, both of stone and adobe. The population in 1849 was about 15,000 and contained a large number of American merchants. Durivage arrived the very same day as Wood.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>On May 8th, we bid goodbye to Chihuahua, starting out with our animals feeling much better and with more experience in packing a mule, which, by the way, requires some practice to pack in good shape. From this time on we discarded the tent as unnecessary baggage, we spread our blankets down under a tree or bush and slept better than most of [the] people who have the best of accommodations. The country we passed through was almost barren of game and for supplies we depended upon the small settlements we occasionally found. On getting near a town our messmate, Mr. Fouse, would go in advance and secure bread, milk and eggs or any other luxury he could find so that on our arrival we could soon have a good meal to sit down to. On arriving at Yauos<ANCHOR ID="n14">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: we found the town in possession of six Apache Indians, who were amusing themselves by riding from store to store and making the proprietors furnish liquor or anything else they demanded. The Apaches professed to be very friendly to our party; they were well mounted and made the Mexicans believe they numbered several hundred a short distance from the town. From Yaous to Tuscon<ANCHOR ID="n15">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: we found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:several villages completely deserted, caused by Apaches making a raid on the place killing a few of the inhabitants and helping themselves to stock or anything else they fancied.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14">Janos was one of seven presidios or military posts, a line of which was formed along the frontier as early as 1718, and used in subduing the Indians and protecting the inhabitants. It was a desolate place built of adobe, with a population of about 300.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15">Tucson was an ancient adobe town of roughly 500 inhabitants. It was so unimpressive that the overlanders mentioned it primarly as a place where they could obtain a small amount of food. More important even than the town, in the eyes of one diarist, "was a wretched creature assuming the attitude of a woman, but said to be an hermaphrodite, who was showing her deformity for presents."</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>From Tuscon on to the Gila river, some ninety miles, we found no water and suffered considerable from the want of it;<ANCHOR ID="n16">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: passed down the southern bank of the Gila to the Pino village. The chief<ANCHOR ID="n17">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: of the Pinos was very kind to us, but the tribe did not appear to know the value of money; red flannel shirts were in demand, and a new silver half dollar piece would be taken in payment for provisions in preference to a $10 gold piece: While camping at the Pino village, an incident occurred that showed the great command the chief had over his subjects. One of our party had a buffalo robe stolen from his bed, he complained to the chief of his loss. The chief called his warriors around him and made them quite a long speech, all we could understand was now and then the word "Americans," the rest sounded more like grunting than talking, but his speech had the desired effect, the missing robe was returned by the thief without any explanation. Had the thief been a white man, talking would hardly have restored it. It was at the Pino village I saw the best dressed Indian, or one that thought he was. He had on a black satin <illus entity="a029-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"PROTECTION PAPER," a form of passport, and an identification, and proof of American citizenship. Issued by various states, and also the United States Government, to the Argonauts of Forty-nine. To be used in case of distress or want in South an Central America and in crossing through Mexico.</p></CAPTION>
029.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:vest, a heavy beaver cloth overcoat and a tall plug hat, no other clothing about his person, and a prouder man never walked or strutted about than my favorite.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16">Arriving at the Gila river on or about the second of June, Durivage wrote: "Mr. Peoples' party [in all probability the Wood's portion of the Kit Carson Association with some others] and that of Mr. Clay Taylor all arrived safe and in very fair order, though some of Mr. Peoples' party who were afoot suffered much."</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17">In all probability this was chief Juan Antonio Llunas, or Banbutt, in the Piman tongue. He was a noble specimen of manhood, a large built man six feet four inches tall. All the emigrants seem to have been impressed with him, and he was highly spoken of by them.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>We travelled down the Gila river to a few miles below the junction of the Colorado,<ANCHOR ID="n18">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: where we arrived June 15th. We concluded to build a raft<ANCHOR ID="n19">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: to take our baggage over on, we had no axes and only two hatchets, so the company found it slow work to get the craft together, but finally succeeded. Our provisions were nearly exhausted and a ninety-mile desert to pass over after crossing the river made it look rather dreary. The Yuma<ANCHOR ID="n20">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: Indians were quite numerous near our camp, they appeared to watch all our movements with great interest, and, like ourselves, were short of grub; still they could get along better than we could as they were not particular about the kind of food they ate, as I saw one making a good meal off of decayed drift wood, devouring it with great relish. I concluded he was hungry. After finishing our raft we got the Indians to swim our animals, the river being high and some four hundred feet in width, we thought it best to hire the Indians to get the animals over. The Indians were very unfortunate with every animal that was in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:good condition, and, what was singular, they would drown close by the opposite shore, and on watching, found the way it was done. Mr. Indian having the end of the rope attached to the mule or horse and swimming along side of the animal, when near the shore would jerk the animal's head under water by using his foot on the slack of the rope, then the carcass would be drawn out on the shore, cut up and devoured by the hungry Indians. They drowned six before we discovered the plan, after that a rifle drawn and aimed at the Indian attempting the trick again prevented any more accidents. After our animals were over we started with our rafts and baggage, passed over safe, made the opposite shore quite a distance below point of starting. Near the shore where the rafts landed it was marshy and shallow so that we had to pack our baggage some ways from the raft. The Indians were very anxious to assist, one of them having a bundle of blankets tried to make off with it through the bushes. Patterson<ANCHOR ID="n21">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: from New Orleans hailed him twice; not paying any attention to his order, he gave him a charge of buckshot. I shall never forget the yell the Indian gave, sprang into the air and dropped. In an instant two Indians caught the body between them, rushed to the river, sprang in, and the last I saw of them they were making fast time down stream, but I have reason to believe the Indian that was shot never helped unload another raft on the Colorado. In five minutes after the shooting not an Indian could be seen. That night we kept guards out and strict watch, but were not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:molested. The bundle of blankets the Indian was making off with contained some beans wrapped up inside, all the provisions the owner was possessed of. The next morning we started on our dreary journey across the desert; after traveling all day found an old well<ANCHOR ID="n22">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: with a dead mule in it; we removed the carcass, cleaned it out and obtained a little water. The next forty-eight hours no water was to be found. A few beans that had been scattered on the ground close by an abandoned wagon were gathered up by us with as much care as so many gold nuggets for we had eaten the last of our provisions, a little salt was all we had left. On the second day of crossing the desert we found a well hole containing some water, but a written notice posted near warned us against using it as it was poisonous. On looking around in the vicinity of the well, and noting the many skeletons of animals, we concluded not to drink any of the water. For thirty-nine hours our animals traveled without water, as for ourselves, we suffered greatly. Cariso Creek<ANCHOR ID="n23">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: was reached at last by the advance guard, and after satisfying their thirst they filled up their canteens and hastened back to assist the others, a small cup of water to each sufferer with the assurance of plenty more near at hand, was welcome news indeed. Hunger is dreadful, but extreme thirst is fearful. On reaching <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:the creek my thirst was so great that I drank six pint cups of water, one after the other, before I could stop, then I had to lay down--nearly fainted away--but in an hour or so began to feel hungry, put our last beans to cooking and two of my messmates went back some eight miles to where one of our pack mules gave out and returned with some mule meat, on which we feasted. At Cariso Creek we found on our arrival an original character, a real, down east Yankee. He had been there several days when we arrived, trying to recruit his two broken down horses. He appeared in good spirits, taking it easy. He had some two pounds of mule's liver left in the provision line, and that was tainted; he said he managed to get along, and had been feasting on rawhide soup for several days. I asked him where he got the rawhide. "Oh," says he, "plenty of horses and mules have died in this vicinity and the dry atmosphere preserves the hides while the rest of the carcass disappears. I take the hides so found and they make very good soup by boiling them well," or to use his own words, "the gol darned soup would be very good if I had plenty of seasoning to put in."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18">Wood made very good time from Chihuahua, starting a week after Durivage left that place. Durivage and A. B. Clarke, arrived at the Colorado river June 19th, and 20th.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19">Later in the year Lieut. Cave J. Couts and his soldiers ferried the emigrants over the river for 50 cents apiece and 10 cents for cattle. This made the crossing easier than for those that passed earlier, and at the same time provided "Uncle Sam's" soldiers with a lucrative side line, but the emigrants drove them to distraction. Couts was referred to as a rascal by some. The ferry was operated later by private parties at a rather exhorbitant rate.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20">The earlier emigrants fared better with these Indians; however bad feelings toward the white people developed and their hostility had been increased later in consequence of the various acts and indolence of the emigrants, and by fall the Indians had killed three of the gold seekers.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21">Probably James Patterson, quartermaster of the Mazatlan Rangers, company No. 1, now traveling with the Wood party.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22">They followed the Cooke route, and through the desert sands the going was slow. This was probably first well, thirteen miles from the river, mentioned by all the emigrants that traveled this route. Located a short distance from the present Paredones, Baja California, Mexico.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23">Carrizo Creek near the western boundary of the present Imperial county, California. Twenty-eight miles from third well, and ninety from the Colorado River. Later, during the summer and fall of 1849, there were unusually heavy rains. The Alamo, New River, and Carrizo Creek were the three rivers here that were intermittently flooding the region during heavy rains, then ceasing entirely leaving no trace.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>We left Cariso Creek next day anxious to push on and get to some place where provisions could be obtained, made a long day's journey and arrived at an Indian camp towards evening. Fouse and myself went through the camp to see if we could get any provisions, and, in making the search did not stand on ceremony, but wherever any cooking was going on we examined the contents of every kettle, but, hungry as we were, could not eat acorns ground up and boiled, that <illus entity="a029-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE HARVEY WOOD HOME at Robinson's Ferry, late 1880's. It was destroyed by fire in 1896. Harvey and his wife on the right.</p></CAPTION>
029.sgm:<illus entity="a029-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ROBINSON'S FERRY on the Stanislaus River. Old ferry boat <HI REND="italics">Adelaide</HI>
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029.sgm:being all we could find. Just as we were getting discouraged in came an Indian with the hind quarters of a horse, we prevailed on him to sell us a few pounds at 25 cents per pound. He did not wish to part with it at that rate, telling us it was horse and not good for Americans. With the meat we made a good stew; next morning for breakfast we finished the horse stew, traveled all day and camped without anything to eat, packed up early next morning and at ten o'clock came to a ranch where we bought some regular beef, paying high prices for the same.</p><P>From that time on to Warner's Ranch<ANCHOR ID="n24">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: we did not suffer hunger, but the manner in which we were received by many ranchmen was discouraging, get within hailing distance of a farm house, the owner would stand in the doorway and commence yelling, "noy carne! noy mici! noy nada!" the last. "noy nada," in a high key and intended as a clincher, but it was no use, being willing to pay we were determined to have something to eat and generally managed to buy milk and meat.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24">One hundred and fifty-eight miles from the Colorado River, and one hundred and twenty-four more to Los Angeles. Warner's was a natural stopping place for travelers. It is precisely at the point where the old main road branches, one fork leading south, down the valley of the Agua Caliente to San Diego, the other to Los Angeles. Warner's beef, butter, milk and eggs were much welcomed by the emigrants when available, but they complained that he charged them "high rates."</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>The country we now traveled through presented a different appearance from Mexico. To see the mountain sides covered with trees and not the cacti was a change for the better. Water was also more abundant. On the 4th of July we camped near the city of Los Angeles, that now thriving place even then appeared a very pretty place. We were enabled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:to live once more on good food, griddle cakes, or "slap jacks," as we called them, were the favorite dish. We devoured so many slap jacks through Mexico that our mess received the name of "the slap jack mess." Saleratus running short we would use ashes, sometimes the cakes were rather heavy, but after almost starving, we considered slap jacks, as we say in the mines, "way up grub." We left Los Angeles July 7th, eager to commence mining for gold, as we were shown a few specimens in Los Angeles which gave us all the gold fever. We would occasionally meet a party of Mexicans returning from the mines and the only thing that prevented our talking them to death by asking questions, was we could not talk Spanish and they did not understand English. One day, however, we met a Dutchman from the mines with a mule load of gold, going to Sonora, Mexico. Now was the chance to find out all about the gold mines, the questions were rained down on the Dutchman so fast that it was enough to drive a sensitive person crazy, but the Dutchman was equal to the occasion. He quietly puffed away at his pipe and after some ten or fifteen minutes, when a lull in the storm of questions gave him a chance to reply he says, "if you pees lucky you gets plenty gold." Not another word could we get from him. Often in years after, while engaged in mining, have the Dutchman's words recurred to me as containing the truth in as few words as could be used.</p><P>Our route from Los Angeles to the mines was via. Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and San Juan, passed over the Coast Range of mountains into the San Joaquin Valley and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:arrived on the Merced river July 30th, where we mined our first gold. Our mess consisting of Fouse, Ackerly, Huyler and myself and a Mr. March,<ANCHOR ID="n25">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: arrived in the mines ahead of all the rest of the Carson Association, leaving them scattered along the way from the Colorado river to the mines.<ANCHOR ID="n26">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25">John F. Marsh of New Hampshire, a member of the Kit Carson Association."</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26">The idea of the great fortunes awaiting them in California was so uppermost in the minds of the emigrants that they fairly fought among themselves over delays, thus splitting up large parties into many smaller ones, leaving the weak to shift for themselves.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>Instead of arriving in the mines with two mules each and three months' provisions as promised by the originator of the association, our mess of four owned one crooked neck horse and one mule, the journey from Los Angeles being mostly performed on foot. All the clothing I had was on my person, so that when it was washing day I was obliged to select the heat of the day and dry the clothes in sections. Our mess had in money just 50 cents left which we paid to a store keeper on the Merced for a glass of poor brandy to cure Huylar of colic. The diggings on the Merced we found would pay about $4.00 per day to the man with our way of mining--washing the dirt in pans, or as the miners term it, "panning out." On asking the store keeper the price of different articles and of different kinds of provisions, found his price list very simple and easily understood. "All kinds of provisions except ham, $1.00 per pound. Hams $1.50, nails 25 cents each." Gold dust he paid $16. per ounce for, or what he called an ounce.</p><P>As we needed four tin pans for panning out the gold and the price was $ 10 each for pans, we concluded to dispose of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:our crooked neck horse to the merchant, he having took a side view at the animal one day and not noticing any defect offered us four ounces for the horse which was gladly accepted and traded out, the four pans and a few provisions using up the horse. The next day the merchant after saddling up his new purchase, mounted for a ride, but concluded after seeing that the horse's head had a lean of some 15 degrees to one side, to delay the trip. Then he had the impudence to growl because we did not point out to him the peculiar makeup of the animal before selling, just as if we were going to show up all the weak points of our property in exchange for tin pans at $10 each.</p><P>The merchant never forgave us and as he wanted cash down afterwards for all his wares we concluded to change our quarters. Our travelling companion, Mr. Marsh, of New Hampshire, being a very smooth talker and the fortunate owner of a "boiled," or white shirt with other clothes to correspond, concluded he would try and see how his credit stood with the merchant, so the evening before we left the Merced, Mr. Marsh selected a fine ham at the store and bought the same on time, price $1.80 per pound, also quite a stock of other provisions to be paid for at the same time he paid for the ham. The next day when our mess left the Merced for the Stanislaus River, "lo and behold," Mr. Marsh joined us a few miles from Merced, well provisioned--on time. To this day I am not certain that the time for payment ever arrived, for within a year Mr. Marsh, made some two thousand dollars and the last I saw of him he was making <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:good time for San Francisco, expecting to take the first steamer for his old home in New Hampshire. From the Merced after crossing the Tuolumne River, we came to the Stanislaus, crossed the same at McLean's Ferry<ANCHOR ID="n27">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: and camped near the mouth of Indian Gulch,<ANCHOR ID="n28">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: just below what is now called Robinson's Ferry,<ANCHOR ID="n29">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: near which point I have resided ever since.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27">McLeans Ferry was located on the Stanislaus River between Calaveras and Tuolumne Counties, about one and a half miles above Robinsons Ferry, just west of the present day Parrotts Ferry bridge on the road from Columbia to Angels Camp.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28">There were two other Indian Gulches, one in the northern Mokelumne region, and the other in the Mariposa region. This particular one, however, was located on the Stanislaus River in Calaveras County, just below Robinsons Ferry.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29">Now known as Melones on highway 49.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>Robinson and Mead then (Aug. 15th, 1849), had a store near the mouth of Indian Gulch, kept in a tent. Mr. Mead, a perfect stranger to us all, welcomed us on our arrival saying, "Camp anywhere around here boys, and any provisions you want I will furnish you, money or no money--price fifty cents per pound." A fall of fifty cents per pound on provisions and an increase of 200 per cent in the diggings was encouraging to us all and we went to work with a will.</p><P>After mining until September I took my first trip to San Francisco to look after some goods that were shipped around the Horn to Ackerly, Huyler, and myself. Travelling at that time differed so much from the present mode I will give an account of the trip: Two acquaintances with myself left the Stanislaus River in the afternoon, our blankets packed on a mule together with a frying pan, coffee pot, and a tin cup and tin plate for each, and a few provisions. No extra clothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:was considered necessary. Thus equipped we started for Stockton on foot, driving the mule ahead of us. We took our time, camped out every night. A bush or tree to spread our blankets under we preferred to any house. The food generally used was hard bread and beefsteak with a cup of coffee drank out of tin cups, no vegetables could be had at any price. We enjoyed the trip very much. On arriving at Stockton we camped outside of town and kept our own hotel. Stockton in September, 1849, was not a handsome place, but money was plentiful and the gamblers were reaping a harvest from the miners who had been fortunate in finding good claims, made money fast and spent it still faster. Monte was the favorite game with the Mexicans. Often bags of gold dust would be staked on the turning of a card with apparent indifference as to the result. No steamboat had yet been put on between Stockton and San Francisco so we were obliged to take passage on a schooner paying $16 passage. We made the trip in six days, tying up in the tules at night at the mercy of millions of mosquitoes, was anything but pleasant. San Francisco in September, 1849, I suppose, presented a different appearance from any other city in the world. Canvas tents or cheap frame houses were going up on all sides. The vessel with our goods not having arrived we made but a short stay in San Francisco. On the return trip to Stockton we were more fortunate, took passage on a small sloop and made the trip in two days. On my return to the mines found my partners doing very well. The day before I returned, Huylar and Fouse had made some two ounces each and concluded to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:have a grand supper by themselves. They invested $8 for a small can of preserves, $4 for one can of sardines and a few other extras making the cost of their supper $16 each. How it tasted I cannot say as no part of it was visible on my arrival. In November, 1849, I went to San Francisco again accompanied by messmate J. M. Fouse, who had concluded to quit mining and go to work at his trade of tinsmith. I was sorry to part company with Fouse, we had traveled and messed together from New York to the mines, passed through many trials and hardships, shared our last morsel of food, not knowing where the next would come from; among all my acquaintances I have never yet found a more noble, generous, good-hearted man than Jacob M. Fouse, of Baltimore. We parted in San Francisco in November, 1849, never to meet on earth again. He succeeded in business, had his wife and family come out to California, and at or near Grass Valley in 1856, (I believe), surrounded by his family, he departed this life.</p><P>The goods that were shipped to us around the Horn had arrived, but the storage I had to pay was nearly the value of the goods. The rainy season had commenced and long legged boots were scarce, the price going up to $ 100 per pair; one case of boots had been shipped to us among other supplies, but they could not be found, nor have I ever found out who did have the benefit of that case of boots.</p><P>Returning to the Stanislaus River from my trip to San Francisco, we built our cabin for the winter, sides of logs, with canvas roof and the usual stone chimney of that period; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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029.sgm:only in putting it up found the draft was always the wrong way, all the smoke coming in the cabin instead of passing out, but on tearing down and rebuilding we were quite successful.</p><P>We had some very good diggings near us--Jackass Gulch, in Tuolumne county, and Indian Gulch, in Calaveras county, yielded large amounts of gold. El Dorado Bar,<ANCHOR ID="n30">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: between McLeans Ferry and Coyote Creek,<ANCHOR ID="n31">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: was found to be exceedingly rich. The "Independent Twelve Company"<ANCHOR ID="n32">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: had a very good claim on the Bar. They had a way of mining without exerting themselves much that I suppose proved as beneficial to them financially, as to work steady ten hours a day. The Twelve men had one rocker, they managed to keep going until about ten o'clock a.m. with the assistance of from four to six bottles of brandy at $4 per bottle; by ten o'clock they would be so much fatigued that to work any more that day was too hard on their system, therefore after washing out the rocker and getting from 24 to 36 ounces of gold, and laying in a fresh supply of brandy they would rest the balance of the day by getting gloriously drunk. This they continued doing while the claim lasted, and when it began to weaken they sought new and better diggings. It was always a mystery to me what particular qualifications a worthless drunken vagabond possessed that he almost invariably had the richest and best claims, while a hard-working, industrious <illus entity="a029-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TYPICAL PASSPORT of the Mexican Government, issued to prospective gold-hunters contemplating taking the Mexican route to California.</p></CAPTION>
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029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:man, striving to make a fortune, very often found it barely possible to make expenses. In the spring of 1850 good diggings were found where Columbia,<ANCHOR ID="n33">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: Tuolumne county, now stands. At that time Columbia was the prettiest camp I ever saw in the mines, groves of pine trees all about the place, and at night the camp fires scattered among the pines, the miners resting after the day's work (that is the steady portion) in groups of from four to six, telling over their trials and hardships either "around the Horn" or across the plains, while in the business portion of the camp the great excitement was about the gambling table. The large blue tent seemed to be the center of attraction. Chis Lillie,<ANCHOR ID="n34">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: the prize fighter, could be seen dealing "monte" with all the grace of a professional, much more gentlemanly in his dealings than many others who followed the profession.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30">On the Stanislaus River, near Indian Gulch.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31">Near Indian Gulch, on the Stanislaus River, Calaveras County. It was most probably named for the coyote mining that was popular with the Mexicans and who frequented this area in great numbers.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n32">A locally formed mutual mining company.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n33">March 1850, then known as American Camp, later as Hildreths Diggings.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34">Christopher Lillie was a young professional fighter, one of the first to arrive in California. He was quiet mannered and had the appearance of a gentleman. The Vigilantes of San Francisco, in 1856, invited him to leave California. He went to Panama and Realejo, where he was shanghaied by Captain Knote, of the United States Navy, murdered and dumped into the sea, for the possession of his trade goods, some jewelry and $ 1,500 in gold.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>My prospecting in Columbia in May, 1850, did not prove profitable although we got one pan of dirt that was good. We went into an old shaft some 12 feet deep and found a narrow pay streak running into a partition between that and another shaft, commenced taking it out; could see the gold every stroke of the pick; we soon found some one was working on the same pay streak from the adjoining shaft, therefore we worked lively; soon a sharp crowbar came through from the other side and a Mexican sung out: "caramba!"</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<P>Then the strife was who could get the most of the rich dirt; I am sorry to admit the Mexican beat the Yankee, for he had seven ounces in his pan and we only had $70.</p><P>Sixteen feet square was then called as much ground as one man was entitled to hold, which brought the different owners close together. The Mexicans had the advantage in one respect, they could run drifts under ground and the surface showed no indications of having been worked. I saw one American sadly disappointed after working several days sinking his shaft anticipating a rich yield on getting down to bedrock; he was suddenly precipitated up to his neck by the bottom of his shaft falling into a drift occupied by a Mexican busily engaged in taking out rich pay. The air was blue with curses for awhile, but as the best of his claim was worked out by the Mexican before the American struck bedrock, he had to make the best of it. Very rich diggings were also struck in May, 1850, at Scorpion Gulch<ANCHOR ID="n35">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm: and Carsons, Calaveras county. The amount taken out at Carsons was enormous, some quite heavy nuggets were found, but as usual fortune did not always favor the most deserving.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n35">Both Scorpion Gulch and Carsons are near Robinsons Ferry.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>At Carsons a prospector came into camp one day dead broke in finance, called at the trading post, made known his condition, then went out to try his luck; in less than an hour he found a seven pound piece of gold; a happier miner I never saw before or since. As for myself, I was never very successful at mining; had some good claims, but none of them to rank as first-class.</p><P>In May, 1856, I bought an interest in the Robinsons Ferry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:property, located on the Stanislaus River between Angels Camp in Calaveras county, and Sonora in Tuolumne county, where I have resided ever since, (June, 1878).<ANCHOR ID="n36">*</ANCHOR>
029.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36">The date this sketch was prepared, but it was not published until 1896.</NOTE>
029.sgm:<P>As the seasons come and go many changes have taken place, many once prosperous mining camps have now become almost deserted. An occasional 49er can be seen, generally poor, grey-headed, broken down specimen of humanity.</p><P>Of the famous Carsons Association which numbered 53 members on leaving New York in February, 1849, I do not know the P. O. address of a single living member; many have gone the long journey while I yet remain in the mines, running the ferry boats at Robinsons Ferry on the Stanislaus.</p><P>HARVEY WOOD, P.O.<LB>Address ANGELS CAMP, <LB>Calaveras County, Cal.</p></DIV>
029.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
029.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
029.sgm:<P>SPECIALLY printed for members of the ZAMORANO CLUB of Los Angeles as a keepsake from John B. Goodman. 200 signed and numbered copies, of which 100 are for sale, were printed by Grant Dahlstrom at the Castle Press in Pasadena, California, December, 1955</p><illus entity="a029-009A" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
030.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-030</TITLE>
030.sgm:<TITLE>California and the West, 1881, and later.  By L. Vernon Briggs: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
030.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
030.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
030.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
030.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
030.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>31-23572</LCCN>
030.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
030.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 41514</COPYRIGHT>
030.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LUAU AT THE MOANALUA COTTAGE OF HON. S. M. DAMON, OAHU, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. ROBERT LEWERS, P.C. JONES, S. M. DAMON, W. H. LEWERS, EDDIE DAMON, OLIVER CARTER, HARRIET LEWERS, ELIZABETH CAMPBELL, HELEN JUDD, MRS. S. M. DAMON, MRS. JOSEPH O. CARTER</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA <LB>AND THE WEST <LB>1881 AND LATER</p><P><HI REND="italics">Privately Printed</HI>
030.sgm: BY <LB>L. VERNON BRIGGS</p><P>Author of</p><P>"The History of shipbuilding on North River, Massachusetts";<LB>"Around cape Horn to Honolulu on the Bark `Amy Turner', <LB>1881"; "Experiences of a Medical student in Honolulu<LB>and on the Island of Oahu, 1881"</p><P>1931</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1931 <LB>BY <LB>L. V. BRIGGS BOSTON <LB>WRIGHT &amp; POTTER PRINTING COMPANY <LB>1931</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<P>DEDICATED <LB>TO MY <LB>EVER FAITHFUL, LOVING AND DEVOTED SISTER <LB>VELMA BRIGGS</p></DIV>
030.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
030.sgm:<P>Since writing my experience as a medical student in Honolulu I have been urged by many friends in the West to continue my narrative and write of my experiences in the West, especially of my visit to California fifty years ago. It is a personal narrative and therefore I have decided to publish this volume privately.</p><P>I have left out the continuation of my journey from Yuma, Arizona, to Boston in 1881, for the experiences of my sister and myself in Arizona during the Apache war, and my later trip to Mexico, would make this too large a volume. I have decided to publish these experiences in a separate volume later.</p><P>I do not expect the general public to be interested in these tales, but only those who reside in the regions I write about, or who have visited these localities some years ago.<LB>L. V. B.<LB>JULY, 1931</p></DIV>
030.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
030.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>I. Northern California, 1881-82 -- Napa City and  Soda Springs -- St. Helena -- Calistoga -- &AElig;tna Springs -- White Sulphur Springs -- A Suicide at Our Hotel -- The Geysers -- Petrified Forest -  Ukiah -- Monticello -- Martinez -- Vallejo<HSEP>1<LB>II. San Francisco in 1881 -- Funeral Procession for  President  Garfield -- Mare  Island -- Governor  Romualdo Pacheco -- Chinatown in 1881 -- San  Francisco to Los Angeles<HSEP>67<LB>III. Los Angeles in 1882 -- The Old Town -- The Fort -- The Suburbs -- Samuel Henry Kent -- Santa Monica -- The Perry Family -- General William  T. Sherman -- California Desert -- Yuma<HSEP>113<LB>IV. A Trip to the World's Columbian Exposition, Chicago, Ill., 1893<HSEP>144<LB>V. A Trip to California in 1895, along the Route of the Canadian Pacific -- Vancouver -- Seattle -- Portland -- Home by way of the Brigham Young Trail<HSEP>150<LB>VI. World's Fair, St. Louis, 1904 -- A Visit to the Yellowstone Park<HSEP>159<LB>VII. A Hurried Trip to Santa Barbara in 1920<HSEP>170<LB>VIII. California and the West, 1921 -- Truckee, Nevada - Lake Tahoe -- Yosemite -- San Francisco - Monterey -- Santa  Barbara -- Los  Angeles - Grand Canyon, Arizona<HSEP>176<LB>IX. Visit to Santa Barbara, California, 1923<HSEP>208</p></DIV>
030.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</HEAD>
030.sgm:<P>Luau at the Moanalua Cottage of Hon. S. M. Damon, Oahu, Hawaiian Islands.  Robert Lewers, P. C. Jones, S. M. Damon, W. H. Lewers, Eddie Damon, Oliver Carter, Harriet Lewers, Elizabeth Campbell, Helen Judd, Mrs. S. M. Damon, Mrs. Joseph O. Carter<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
030.sgm: <HI REND="italics"><LB><HSEP>Facing page</HI>
030.sgm:<LB>Residence of Hon. Samuel M. Damon, Nuuanu Avenue, Honolulu.  Home of L. V. Briggs for Many Months. Mrs. S. M. Damon and Miss May Damon in Foreground<HSEP>4<LB>Palace Hotel, Napa, Cal.  <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>7<LB>U. S. Arctic Relief Ship "Rodgers" and Officers, 1881<HSEP>8<LB>C. H. Wetmore, M.D., Napa, Cal., 1881<HSEP>12<LB>Luke Kelly, Napa, Cal., 1881<HSEP>12<LB>San Rafael, Marin County, Cal., 1881<HSEP>16<LB>Calistoga Hotel and Grounds from the Depot, 1881<HSEP>16<LB>Charles J. Guiteau (from Frank Leslie's "Weekly," 1881) <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>25<LB>Discussion by the Attending and Consulting Surgeons of President Garfield (from Frank Leslie's "Weekly," 1881) <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>27<LB>Napa Soda Springs and Hotel <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>30<LB>L. Vernon Briggs, 1881<HSEP>32<LB>The Geysers -- Foss in His Glory -- The Geysers Hotel <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>35<LB>Arriving at the Geysers Hotel, July 25, 1881 <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>39<LB>Geysers Hotel, Sonoma County, Cal., 1881<HSEP>40 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<HI REND="italics"><HSEP>Facing page</HI>
030.sgm:<LB>View from the Geysers Hotel, Geysers, Cal., 1881<HSEP>40<LB>Devil's Tea Kettle, Geysers, Cal., 1881<HSEP>40<LB>Mrs. Howland, Wife of Capt. John Howland, Napa, 1881<HSEP>48<LB>Emma Haas, Napa, 1881<HSEP>48<LB>View of the Bay and Part of the City of San Francisco, 1881<LB>(photo by Taber)<HSEP>56<LB>Ferry Landing, San Francisco, 1881<HSEP>56<LB>Petrified Tree, 70 Feet Long, 11 Feet Diameter, Petrified Forest, Sonoma County, Cal., July 27, 1881<HSEP>56<LB>San Francisco, Cal., in 1848 (from a pencil sketch by Taber)<HSEP>64<LB>Central Pacific Railroad Depot, Oakland, Cal., 1881 (photo by Taber)<HSEP>64<LB>Arraignment of Guiteau (from Frank Leslie's "Weekly," 1881) <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>74<LB>Daniel Callaghan, 1882<HSEP>80<LB>Palace Hotel, San Francisco, 1881 (photo by Taber)<HSEP>80<LB>Court, Palace Hotel, San Francisco, 1881 (photo by Taber)<HSEP>88<LB>California Street, San Francisco, looking up from Sansome Street, 1881 (photo by Taber)<HSEP>88<LB>Market Street from 3rd Street, looking East, San Francisco, 1881 (photo by Taber)<HSEP>104<LB>The Crocker and Colton Mansions, California Street, San Francisco, 1881<HSEP>104<LB>A. F. Sawyer, M.D., San Francisco, 1881 (photo by Taber)<HSEP>106<LB>Cliff House and Seal Rock, San Francisco, 1881<HSEP>108<LB>Grand Hotel, San Francisco, 1881<HSEP>108<LB>Bird's-eye View of San Francisco, 1881<HSEP>108<LB>Sonora, the Original Settlement of Los Angeles; occupied in 1882 by Aged Spaniards and Mexicans; Many Adobe Houses (photo by Payne, Stanton &amp; Co.)<HSEP>114 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<HI REND="italics"><HSEP>Facing page</HI>
030.sgm:<LB>View of Los Angeles, Cal., from the Top of the Court House, 1882<HSEP>114<LB>Pico House, Los Angeles, 1882<HSEP>114<LB>The New Normal School, 1882 <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>125<LB>Samuel Henry Kent, 1882 (photo by The Adams Studio)<HSEP>128<LB>Residence of William H. Perry, Esq., on Boyle Heights, Los Angeles, 1882<HSEP>136<LB>Mamie B. Perry, Los Angeles, Cal<HSEP>138<LB>William H. Perry, Esq., Los Angeles, 1882<HSEP>138<LB>Adobe Mission Church, 110 Years Old in 1882, San Gabriel, Cal.  The Chimes came from Spain (photo by Payne, Stanton &amp; Co.)<HSEP>142<LB>Indians at Needles, Cal., 1882<HSEP>142<LB>Indians near Needles, Cal., 1882<HSEP>142<LB>The Raymond &amp; Whitcomb Grand <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>145<LB>Vancouver, British Columbia, 1895 (photo by Boorne &amp; May, Ltd.)<HSEP>150<LB>Main Street, Winnipeg, 1895 (photo by Notman &amp; Son)<HSEP>150<LB>Cree Indian Family and Travois, Calgary, 1895<HSEP>152<LB>Bow River and Twin Peaks, Banff, 1895 (photo by Notman &amp; Son)<HSEP>152<LB>Blackfoot Indian Camp near Gleichen, 1895<HSEP>154<LB>Loop in the Selkirks, showing four Tracks, 1895 (photo by Notman &amp; Son)<HSEP>154<LB>Cree Indian at Medicine Hat, 1895<HSEP>158<LB>Blackfoot Indian, British Columbia, 1895<HSEP>158<LB>Miss Velma Briggs riding a Camel at World's Fair, St. Louis, 1904 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>159<LB>Miss Velma Briggs dismounting from Camel, World's Fair, St. Louis, 1904 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>159 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<HI REND="italics"><HSEP>Facing page</HI>
030.sgm:<LB>The Igorot preparing and cooking a Dog for their Daily Meal at the World's Fair, St. Louis, 1904 (photo by Philippine Photograph Company)<HSEP>160<LB>Miss Velma Briggs resting on an Elephant, World's Fair, St. Louis, 1904 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>162<LB>Miss Velma Briggs feeding an Elephant, World's Fair, St. Louis, 1904 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>162<LB>Driving into the Yellowstone, 1904 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>162<LB>Constant Geyser, Yellowstone, 1904 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>164<LB>Mammouth Hot Springs Hotel and Mount Everts, Yellowstone, 1904 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>164<LB>Typical Group of Tourists watching Old Faithful Geyser, Yellowstone (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>164<LB>Paint Pots Geyser, Yellowstone (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>166<LB>Excelsior Geyser, Yellowstone (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>166<LB>Yellowstone Great Falls (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>166<LB>Giant Geyser, Yellowstone (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>168<LB>Buffalo in Yellowstone Park (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>168<LB>A Familiar Scene in the Yellowstone<HSEP>168<LB>"The Upham," Santa Barbara, Oct. 30, 1920 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>172<LB>Cottage Hospital, Santa Barbara, Oct. 30, 1920 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>172<LB>Wood-fired Engine which ran from Truckee to Tahoe (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>176<LB>L. Cabot Briggs diving in Lake Tahoe, Sept. 1, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>176<LB>Lake Tahoe <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>178<LB>Mono Lake.  Mrs. McPherson's Boat just leaving her Island<HSEP>180 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<HI REND="italics"><HSEP>Facing page</HI>
030.sgm:<LB>Venita R. McPherson and her Goats on Paoha Ranch and Island, Mono Lake<HSEP>180<LB>After leaving Mindon, Sept. 3, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>180<LB>L. V. Briggs and Party passing a Mule Team near Tioga Pass, Sept. 3, 1921<HSEP>182<LB>Tenaga Lake, California, Sept. 4, 1921 (photo by L V. Briggs)<HSEP>182<LB>Canvas Cabins at Tenaya Lake, where we spent the Night of Sept. 3, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>182<LB>Facsimile of Automobile Pass for Tioga Pass <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>183<LB>Yosemite (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>184<LB>Half Dome, Yosemite, at Mirror Lake, Sept. 5, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>184<LB>Merced River, Yosemite, Sept. 4, 1921, near where we lunched in Our Car (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>184<LB>L. Cabot Briggs, L. Vernon Briggs and Chauffeur, W. G. Anderson, on the Yosemite Trail, Sept. 5, 1921 (photo by Mary Cabot Briggs)<HSEP>186<LB>Half Dome, Yosemite, Sept. 5, 1921 (photo by Mary Cabot Briggs)<HSEP>186<LB>View on the Way from Yosemite to Glacier Point, Sept. 6, 1921 (photo by M. C. Briggs)<HSEP>186<LB>View from Glacier Point, Yosemite, Sept. 6, 1921, Cabot in the Foreground (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>188<LB>Big Tree at Wawona, said to be 5,000 Years Old, L. Cabot Briggs standing at the Foot of the Tree, Sept. 6 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>188<LB>Bay at Carmel near Monterey, Cal., Sept. 11, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>192<LB>View from Glacier Point, Sept. 6,1921 (photo by M. C. Briggs)<HSEP>192 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:<HI REND="italics"><HSEP>Facing page</HI>
030.sgm:<LB>Bird's-eye View of Hotel at Monterey, 1882 <HI REND="italics">(text)</HI>
030.sgm:<HSEP>193 <LB>L. Cabot Briggs on the Golf Links at Monterey, Cal., Sept. 11, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>196 L. Cabot Briggs at Miss Baylor's Walnut Grove (Harvest Time), Santa Barbara, Sept. 21, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>196 L. Cabot Briggs on the La Cumbra Golf Links, Santa Barbara, Sept. 19, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>198<LB>Cabot on the Steps of the Cottage we occupied at the El Mirasol, Santa Barbara, September, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>198<LB>"Casa De Paz," Mary Gray's House in the Ojai Valley, California, Sept. 17, 1931 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>198<LB>San Inez Mission, Sept. 23, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>198<LB>Guide, Mrs. L. V. Briggs, L. Cabot Briggs, L. V. Briggs start- ing on a Two Days' Trip down Hermit Trail, Grand Canyon of Arizona, Sept. 30,1921 (photo by a Friend)<HSEP>203<LB>L. Cabot Briggs (leading), Mrs. L. Vernon Briggs and the Guide going down the Grand Canyon of Arizona, by the Hermit Trail, Sept. 30, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>203<LB>Mary Cabot Briggs on the Hermit Trail, Grand Canyon of Arizona, Oct. 1, 1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>205<LB>L. Cabot Briggs, Mary Cabot Briggs, with the Guide leading, going up the Hermit Trail, Oct. 1,1921 (photo by L. V. Briggs)<HSEP>205<LB>Mary Cabot Briggs and her Son, L. Cabot Briggs, at the Foot of Hermit Trail on the Colorado River, Grand Canyon of Arizona, Oct. 1, 1921<HSEP>206<LB>President and Mrs. Warren G. Harding, Brigadier General Sawyer in Uniform on her Right, receiving their Friends from Marion, Ohio, at the White House, June 10, 1921. L. V. Briggs present but not visible in the Picture (photo presented to L. V. Briggs by Mrs. Harding)<HSEP>211</p></DIV>
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030.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I</HEAD>
030.sgm:<P>NORTHERN CALIFORNIA, 1881-82  NAPA CITY AND SODA SPRINGS -- ST. HELENA CALISTOGA &AElig;TNA SPRINGS -- WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS A SUICIDE AT OUR HOTEL THE GEYSERS -- PETRIFIED FOREST -- UKIAH MONTICELLO -- MARTINEZ -- VALLEJO</p><P>Four years ago I published an account of my experiences as a medical student in Honolulu and on the Island of Oahu in the Hawaiian Islands in the years 1880-81.  In this volume I also told of my voyage back from Honolulu to San Francisco in the steamer "City of Sidney," 3,009 tons.  We sailed from Honolulu on May 10, 1881, arriving in San Francisco on May 19.  At this time I was seventeen years of age. I had been sent to Honolulu by way of Cape Horn by Dr. Henry I. Bowditch of Boston, as I was suffering from tuberculosis of the lungs. This form of treatment was much in vogue in those days, and the voyage, although a very rough one, did me good.  I was much better when I arrived in Honolulu, but overtaxed my strength as vaccinating officer, and later government physician, in the epidemic of smallpox which broke out soon after my arrival.  I was responsible for the successful vaccination of all the inhabitants on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:Island of Oahu.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">See "Experiences of a Medical Student in Honolulu and on the Island of Oahu in 1880," L. Vernon Briggs.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>Soon after I reached San Francisco I was offered a position as physician on the United States Arctic relief ship "Rodgers," which was about to go to the Arctic regions in search of the "Jeannette."  I felt that it would be a wonderful experience up there in the Arctic, and was most anxious to go, but my physicians, Doctors Hubbard and Sawyer, would not listen to the suggestion, so I had to see the vessel go off and leave me behind.  We were all at that time much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:interested in the fate of the United States steamer "Jeannette."  Commanded by Lieut. George W. DeLong, and financed by Mr. James Gordon Bennett of the "New York Herald," she had sailed from San Francisco on July 8, 1879, on a gallant expedition in search of the North Pole, and she had been last reported by Captain Barnes of the whaler "Sea Breeze," on September 4 of that year.  Captain Barnes reported that, though he had sighted the vessel, she had disappeared in the fog and they were unable to speak her.</p><P>She was provisioned for three years, and those best acquainted with the personnel of the expedition had not felt much uneasiness as to the safety of the vessel and her crew until the close of the season just past. But the exceptional freedom from ice of the Arctic region during the summer of 1881, and the fact that no tidings had been obtained of the expedition by the United States revenue cutters "Rodgers" and "Corwin," or by any of the whaling fleet, had been causing much solicitude, and several expeditions had already been sent out in search for her. The "Jeannette" had on board, when she cleared from San Francisco, thirty-three souls, -- twenty-five forward and eight aft. To this number were added at St. Michael's two experienced native guides, with several dog teams. DeLong's last despatch had been received at the Navy Department in September, 1880, thirteen months after it was written.  It was dated from Cape Seedezkamen, August 19, 1879, and the message concluded with the statement: "The officers and men in my command are all well, and we expect to sail tonight for Wrangel Island via Kalintchin Bay."  At the time of my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:arrival in California there was much excitement over this expedition, and great fears were entertained that the vessel and all her crew had been lost.<ANCHOR ID="n1-12">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm:<P>In my former story I gave an account of my first days in California which were spent in San Francisco and its suburbs, where I was soon joined by my mother and sister.  My story ended on July 14, 1881, when, having abandoned our plan of returning to Honolulu, we had decided, by the advice of Dr. A. F. Sawyer, to go to Napa, Napa Valley, Napa County, north of San Francisco, to avoid the cold winds which sprang up in that city even in summer, making it necessary to wear an overcoat after 4 P.M. Their chill comes over <illus entity="a030-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RESIDENCE OF HON.SAMUEL M. DAMON, NUUANU AVENUE, HONOLULU. HOME OF L. V. BRIGGS. FOR MANY MONTHS. MRS. DAMON AND MISS MAY DAMON IN FOREGROUND.</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:me again in reading a letter which my mother wrote my father on June 7, 1881, from the Tamalpais Hotel, San Rafael, where we stayed for a short time before going to Napa:</p><P>"We are now in a little town out of San Francisco -- a delightful spot; although, strange to say, the wind never `blew so hard' in this part of the country before as it has for the last four days.  It has rained twice this week and was raining all last night -- such a thing was never known here before in June, but it seems as if everywhere that Vernon goes he has things happen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:that never happened before! . . . The air is delightful and the hotel good.  Vernon had two letters to Dr. W. G. Graham, the proprietor, one from Mr. Robert Howland and one from Mr. Pierson. . . . I want to get Velma a new riding habit, for there are very nice horses here; a party of over twenty went riding from the hotel this morning. Velma and Vernon go riding every day. . . . Vernon is quite uncomfortable with the croton oil they are putting on his chest to draw out the inflammation."</p><P>We had thought, first, of going to Los Angeles, but Dr. Sawyer advised against it at that time.  He said, "I don't like Los Angeles -- it gets the sea breeze." I spoke of Nevada; "Too far inland," he said; and then he suggested the Napa Valley as just the place, and said, "This is the mode of life I want you to live -- plenty of exercise out of doors, such as horseback, etc.  I want you to go to Napa, or a place near there; take a gun and fishing outfit.  After you have eaten your breakfast, start out early every morning and fish or hunt till night; don't come home any day until dark. Make your lunch out of what you kill; build a fire and cook it.  By such a plan you will be obliged to get your lunch, and this will keep you out of doors. When you come home, take a bath, change your flannels and your clothes, and you will be fresh for dinner. I want you to do this for at least six weeks. In a few days your sister will be able to go with you.  For the first month I want you both to live like nigger Indians, and you will get a foundation and improve so that your parents will not know you."</p><P>Velma and I did not carry out Dr. Sawyer's instructions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:to "live like nigger Indians" to the letter. It would doubtless have been better for us had we done so, but we were sociable young people, and my sister was not inured to roughing it.  Probably our mother would have been very anxious had we done so, for the fresh-air treatment, especially for tuberculosis, was practically unknown in that day. But we did get much benefit from our stay in Napa, and I spent a great deal of time in the open air.</p><P>On June 15, 1881, with my mother and sister, I crossed the ferry from San Francisco to Oakland, where we took a train to Vallejo, California's old capital, <illus entity="a030-0003" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
030.sgm:which I visited later, as I shall relate; thence we changed to another train for Napa, where we had engaged rooms at the Palace Hotel.  From my notes made at the time I extract the following description of Napa:</p><P>To the visitor at Napa City today (1881) the statement that a little more than thirty years ago the site of the now lively little city was a "howling wilderness" sounds more like a fable than a reality; and yet such is the case.  It is situated in the midst of a country noted for its mild and genial climate, the great fertility <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:of its soil, and its many well-cultivated vineyards.  Those in Napa Valley produced in one year over twenty-six hundred thousand gallons of wine and brandy. This production was from sixty-one cellars.</p><P>The valley is about forty miles long, and Napa City, thirty miles inland from the Pacific Coast, is hedged in completely by branches of the Coast Range Mountains, these protecting it from any great devastations by wind and weather.  Snow is a great rarity, and ice seldom forms.  In summer the thermometer rarely reaches ninety, though during a dry spell the heat seems intense.  It is also very dusty during the dry season, but the streets are kept fairly watered and the sidewalks in very good condition, so that the visitor will find little cause for complaint on that score, especially when it is compared with most other California towns. The products are principally fruits, wine and cereals, and the future will probably reveal the fact that no part of California is better adapted to the growth of the vine than Napa Valley. The soil among the foothills is the common red detritus from volcanic substances, which is well adapted to the growth of the vine.  The blackberry ranches are well worth a visit, also the strawberry and raspberry ranches. Timber is a scarce article, there being no growths to speak of, except a belt of redwood along the west line. On the road to the State Asylum for the Insane, situated near Napa City, is a little adobe house which has withstood the action of the climate for over forty years.  Here lives Don Cayetano Jaurez, a Spanish Mexican, to whom belongs the honor of being one of the first settlers.  Coming here in 1840, he built this house in which he has since lived continuously.</p><illus entity="a030-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>(See page 4)</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>Spaniards continued to come, but it was not until 1847-8 that any Americans settled here.  In May, 1848, the first wooden building -- a saloon 18 by 24 feet -- was erected by Harrison Pierce.  At that time the town was divided into "Napa Alta," or Upper Napa, and "Napa Abajo," or Lower Napa.  Pierce's saloon was soon deserted, as on the 8th of May, 1848, the discovery of gold in California excited the male portion of the small settlement to such an extent that the town was almost deserted in a few days (there being scarcely a woman there then), and the inhabitants of Napa were among the first to arrive at the newly discovered gold fields. Pierce returned to Napa in the fall to find his first building just as he had left it, and reopened it with the name of "Empire Saloon" over the door, well remembered by old pioneers as a place where lodgings and "square meals," of beef, hard bread and coffee, could be had at $1 each.</p><P>At that time lumber was worth $300 per thousand; freight by wagon to Sonoma, a distance of seventy or eighty miles, was $80 per thousand, and barley cost $8 to $15 per cental. The population increased rapidly, and in 1854 the whites and Indians were about equal in point of numbers.  At that time the banks of the rather muddy river which runs through the town, and is navigable to Napa from San Francisco Bay, were covered with a dense growth of alders and willows. Now wharves, tanneries and mills have taken their place, and the cleared banks of the river give it the appearance of a canal.  On the 4th of July, 1856, the "Reporter," the first newspaper in Napa, made its appearance.  It was a tri-weekly, and was published by A. J. Cox, who certainly earned his bread, inasmuch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:as the list of paying subscribers one year later did not exceed twenty.  The office was a picture of a California pioneer's life as a publisher, a rickety old shanty, eighteen feet square, without ceiling, plastering or paper, with great cracks through the roof and floor, editorial lodging room in the garret, with an iron bedstead and a few blankets for furniture, while the printing office contained a "Washington hand press" with a platen 14 by 17 inches, a small font of second-hand minion and one of long primer.  This press was brought from Mexico to San Francisco at the close of the war, and is now in possession of the Sonoma Pioneers.</p><P>Three papers are now issued in Napa, -- the "Daily Reporter," the "Daily Register" and the "Weekly Register."  In December, 1867, gas was introduced into the town, giving it quite a citified appearance. An act incorporating the "town of Napa City" was approved March 23, 1872.</p><P>The town is well supplied with churches, having Presbyterian (Rev. Mr. Lewis), Methodist-Episcopal, Baptist, and Dutch Reformed churches.  Religious meetings were first held in 1853 in the court room, a rough place, with no carpet, curtains, paint or finish of any kind, while the seats were plain slabs laid on roughly hewn logs.  Napa has a number of well-conducted schools, among which may be mentioned the Napa Ladies' Seminary, Napa Collegiate Institute, and the Central and Oak Mount schools.  The industries are quite numerous, and transportation is very cheap, there being communication with San Francisco by both rail and water.  One of the liveliest enterprises here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:is the tannery business.  Sawyer's tannery, started in 1869, now has a capacity of two thousand sheepskins and two hundred deerskins a day, besides heavy hides. About a hundred Chinamen and a number of white men are employed here. The buildings cover two and one-half acres of land.  The wool is graded into five Separate kinds, baled, and shipped to Boston.  Next in importance in the manufacturing line are the flour mills. The Vernon Mills and the Napa City Mills together turn out about 250 barrels a day.  The cream of tartar works, established in December, 1880, bid fair to be quite an industry. The wine settlings used in making cream of tartar are obtained in Sonoma and Napa counties. The tartar forms in small brown crystals, either on the bottom of the tanks or on threads suspended in them.  After being removed they are dried in the sun. Napa has one bank and two banking houses, eleven hotels, seven of which are worse than none, three drug stores, two fire companies, twelve doctors, ten lawyers, twenty-one saloons, five livery stables, four saddlers, besides numerous stores and offices of all kinds.</p><P>From my diary I take up the tale of daily happenings:</p><P>JUNE 16. -- We find Napa a very warm place, as it is located in the valley and rather shut in. This afternoon Velma and I hired a horse and buggy and drove to Roscobel Ranch, where we called on Mrs. Condon and the Rogerses.</p><P>Napa is situated on the level of the sea.  The river is muddy, but very deep, and boats sailing on it between here and San Francisco take all kinds of freight.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:The streets are lined with shade trees, very large though planted only five years ago, but everything is covered with a fine brown dust; fleas are a perfect pest. You can't walk out in the streets anywhere and return without being troubled by them.</p><P>This house, the Palace Hotel, is kept by Luke Kelly. He raises his own fruit and vegetables, and has 500 hens, 200 ducks, 12 cows, 75 horses and colts, besides pigs, etc. He has a three-year-old colt which makes a mile in 3.06 already. He is training it on the race track behind the depot.</p><P>JUNE 17. -- Velma was awakened at 1.30 this morning by hearing mother jump out of bed and open the inside blinds of the window. A blaze of light immediately illuminated the room, and they saw that the Washington House, a large family hotel opposite, was in flames. They waked me immediately and at about the same time men ran through the hotel corridors, screaming, "Fire!" and everybody began to pack his belongings ready to leave the hotel if necessary.  My room got so hot that it was uncomfortable, and men began wetting blankets and hanging them over the outside of all the windows facing the fire.  Mother packed all our belongings in a sheet and carried them downstairs herself -- a thing she could not have done except for the excitement.  The Washington House burned quickly and was nothing but a mass of embers by four o'clock, when we all once more went to bed.</p><P>Mr. Luke Kelly, the proprietor of our hotel, is a typical Irishman of the old sort.  This evening, the 18th, to relieve the tension after the fright we all received <illus entity="a030-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LUKE KELLY, NAPA, CAL., 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>C. H. WETMORE, M.D., NAPA, CAL., 1881 (See page 23)</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:from the fire last night, he made up a party of guests and drove us to a dance at the Asylum.  The party was headed by Mr. William A. Slocum, and Velma and I both went.  The State Asylum for the Insane is located about a mile and a half from Napa City, a large, well-built structure, which cost $1,800,000; it has 1,045 patients and 100 attendants.  All the patients who were in a condition to attend were assembled in a gaily decorated hall for the dance; there was music by an orchestra and also by a band composed of the patients. They seemed to enjoy dancing with each other and with the guests, and we all enjoyed the experience.  Among the patients I met a one-legged man, a German professor who speaks six languages, a lady circus rider and a lawyer.  Mr. Slocum is an interesting character from the Middle West. In company with a geologist, Professor Palmer, a historian, Professor Bowen, and a journalist, David D. Fagan, he is writing and publishing the histories of the different counties of California.  They have already completed several counties and have produced very creditable histories, the first ever written of these counties. They have asked me to join them in preparing the history of Napa County.  It is an attractive offer, and I have accepted for part-time work.  They have to cover every foot of the country, visiting ranches and towns, climbing and surveying mountains, living sometimes with farmers, sometimes in open tents, and I am to accompany them on some of these trips, or rather, Mr. Slocum is to be my companion on most of them.</p><P>JUNE 19. -- Velma's chills and fever have left her.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:She and I both enjoy the little happenings here in Napa. For instance, when we run short of pork at the hotel the Chinese cook goes into a field opposite with a wheelbarrow.  He catches a hog, sticks a knife into its throat, throws it on to the wheelbarrow, and wheels it into the kitchen, where he finishes dressing it.  He goes on Friday or Saturday morning into the hen yard to obtain a part of our Sunday dinner, wheeling his barrow with an empty barrel on it.  Here he performs the same office, sticking a knife into the throats of the chickens, one after the other, until he has thrown a sufficient number for dinner into the barrel. At these times there is great commotion -- squealing of pigs in the pig yard or cackling of hens in the hen yard, and we all know what is taking place.</p><P>For some time Mr. Kelly has been missing his chickens, and disturbances in the chicken yard before dawn on several mornings made him believe that the thief must visit his premises at that time; so for several nights he has been lying in wait with a gun for the intruder.  This morning he heard a great commotion among the hens, and in the uncertain light just before dawn he saw what seemed to be the white shirt of a man who was chasing the chickens which were fleeing wildly before him.  So Mr. Kelly up with his double-barreled shotgun, and fired both barrels -- when the commotion was increased tenfold, with terrible roarings and bellowings!  He immediately investigated, only to find that he had shot his best cow, which had a large white spot over the chest!  Every one in the house was awakened by the noise, and the guests tried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:to sympathize with Mr. Kelly,<ANCHOR ID="n1-13">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: but all to no purpose -- he was disconsolate.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-13">Mr. Kelly died in 1882.  The following notice of his death appeared in a San Francisco paper:<HSEP>NAPA, March 11. -- Luke Kelly, a prominent hotel man of this State and proprietor of the Palace Hotel and Napa Soda Springs, died today of pneumonia, after two days' illness.  This community sustains a severe loss in the death of Mr. Kelly.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>JUNE 20. -- Slocum and I took a horse and buggy today, and, leaving Napa township, we drove nine miles over a level road in the center of the beautiful Napa Valley, to Yount township, the first township north of Napa.  To this town belongs the honor of having the first <HI REND="italics">white</HI>
030.sgm: settler that ever located in Napa County.  George C. Yount came into the valley in 1831, and about five years afterward permanently located in Yount, building a house, which, with the land surrounding it, was known as the "Caymus rancho."  It was a log house, and served both as a fortress and dwelling; he, however, soon became very friendly with the Indians, and they treated him with great kindness.  Yountville is the principal town in Yount township, and has one store, one saloon, two hotels and a population of about 200.  We visited Groezenger's vineyard, one of the largest in Napa County.  It cost over $200,000 to start his great wine cellars and the distillery in which he makes brandy. The buildings are of brick.  We then went on to St. Helena, the first town in the Hot Springs Township, population 1,200.  This town, situated eighteen miles north of Napa City, is second to it in size in Napa County, and is the center of the wine-producing region <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:of this valley.  There are vineyards and orchards in every direction, some extending for hundreds of acres. Its main street is always cool, being shady and well watered.  The town was incorporated in 1876, and since then it has grown very fast.  It has now four churches, many neat residences, a very fair school, a fire department, water company, banking house, a semi-weekly paper, brewery, and, lastly, the St. Helena Cream of Tartar Works, which now has a capacity large enough to make five hundred pounds a week. To fully appreciate St. Helena, one must make a stay not of several days but of several weeks.</p><P>We continued our trip up this beautiful valley to Calistoga, a town about seventy miles north of San Francisco and six miles from St. Helena. On our drive we passed many of the favorite madrona and manzanita trees. The former sheds its bark in the fall of the year in the same manner as other trees do their leaves, when the tree presents a bright salmon color which gradually turns darker until the shedding time of the following year. The latter, which has a Spanish name, manzanita, meaning "little apple," is more of a shrub, and also sheds its bark; a perfectly straight cane of this wood is very valuable, large rewards being paid for such canes.  Scarcely any such have ever been found, so knotted and twisted does it grow.  The root takes a fine polish, and many fancy articles are made from it.  The valley here is called "safe land," because it can always be depended upon to produce a crop, as the rainfall is sufficient every year and irrigation is unnecessary.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN RAFAEL, MARIN COUNTY, CAL.,. 1881 (See page 5)</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CALISTOGA HOTEL AND GROUNDS FROM THE DEPOT, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<P>Calistoga is a small town, with a farming country on one side and quicksilver and gold mines on the other. It is quite fascinating to see the miners bring in rocks which they have found with good sized deposits of gold in them.  The town has but about five hundred inhabitants as yet, but like St. Helena, the people all live in sight of each other, giving the appearance of a much larger town.  It has an enterprising population and supports two hotels, blacksmith, shoe, hardware and millinery stores, two markets, drug store, barber, candy, paint and tailor shops, one each, a weekly newspaper, five saloons, three doctors and three livery stables.  The latter is a very good business, and as Calistoga is the terminus of the Napa Valley branch of the Central Pacific Railroad, many stage lines are run from here to various points, including the one to the Geysers, driven by the celebrated Foss with "six in hand," and others to Kellogg's, Harbin Springs, Lakeport, Lower Lake and Sulphur Bank. The town also has a school, erected at a cost of $6,000, a flour mill, two churches, the Methodist Episcopal and Presbyterian, -- and several orders, including the Masons and Odd Fellows.  To Samuel Brannan belongs the honor of being the founder of this place, and he also named it. He prophesied that it would some time be the Saratoga of California, so he spliced the names and called it Cal(is)toga, the middle syllable being inserted for euphony. Mr. Brannan chartered the ship "Brooklyn," fitted it up for passengers, and sailed from New York in February, 1846, with a company of 236 passengers, most of whom were, like himself, Mormons.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:Five months later they touched at the Sandwich Islands, where they purchased provisions, arms and ammunition, and on the last day of July arrived at Yerba Buena (now San Francisco), where his colony settled on the sand hills in rudely constructed dwellings made mostly of frames covered with canvas.  In 1859 he came to Calistoga and soon secured two thousand acres of land, expending not less than half a million dollars thereon, especially improving the few acres of land near the location of the springs.</p><P>These springs, which are located about a quarter of a mile from the hotel at which we stopped, are well worth a much longer journey.  From here it is only a little way to Mt. St. Helena, an extinct volcano 3,243 feet high. Among the improvements made during the administration of Mr. Brannan may be mentioned an observatory, erected on a small hill called Mt. Lincoln, situated near the center of the grounds, from which a fine view of the surrounding country can be obtained.  He also built a reservoir on this hill with ninety thousand gallons' capacity. At the foot of the hill he erected a hotel (since burned), twenty-five neat cottages, and covers and arbors over the springs.  He laid out the grounds with walks and ornamented them with trees and flowers.  During the four months of April, May, June and July of 1872, three thousand and twenty guests arrived at the Hot Springs Hotel. The waters of the Springs are certainly wonderful, and hold in solution iron, sulphur, magnesia and other chemical properties. One of the most frequented of the entire group has the following over the door: "The Devil's Kitchen; cook for yourself." <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:Entering, we found cups, salt and pepper.  We took some of the water boiling hot from the spring, and with a little seasoning found it to be identical in taste and smell to chicken soup -- in fact, it would be hard to make any one believe it was anything else if served upon a table. The property that imparts this peculiar flavor is sulphuretted hydrogen, with which the water is highly charged.  Several springs are covered over for the benefit of those who wish to take steam baths in the same manner as the Indians used to.  One spring, which has a temperature of 195 degrees, has a bath house erected over it, with a floor full of holes, and the rheumatic or over-corpulent person can go there and take a Russian steam bath, -- steam being made by some unknown chemical process far down in the earth.  In 1880 one Mr. Tichnor became proprietor of this wonderful property, and being a natural-born genius, he immediately conceived the idea of turning to some new uses the wonderful power these springs contained. He soon had a steam whistle blowing and considerable machinery in motion, operated by the steam from one of these springs. Over a spring south of Mt. Lincoln he placed a gas receiver, and behold! he had a lighted jet from a burner he had attached to it, and no one knew until he demonstrated it that there was carburetted hydrogen gas there, though everybody knew there was sulphuretted hydrogen.  He said he could run a large factory with the steam that went to waste there, and light it with the gas. Mr. Tichnor also suspended thin strips of lead foil in the vapors arising from the spring, and he found upon cupelling that he had quicksilver.  All these at one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:time were daily illustrated and found to be undeniable by the guests and observers.  But these are not all of Mr. Tichnor's discoveries, for we find him at the "Chemical Spring," busily engaged in extracting gold from that spring.  Mr. Tichnor claims to have extracted by his process $180 worth of gold from three barrels of water from the springs of Calistoga.  He does not deny the putting of gold into the water, but says that by his secret process it takes gold to eliminate the metal from the water by the law of affinity, and that he only puts in one-sixth of the amount which he takes out. The assay of a bar of gold which he took to the United States Mint at San Francisco was pronounced 9.93 1/2 fine.  This account of the "Chemical Spring" and its contents may be taken for what it is worth, but should you tell Mr. Tichnor that you wished to buy the spring he will gladly let you see him extract considerable gold from the water.</p><P>The ever genial proprietor of the Magnolia Hotel in Calistoga, where we spent last night, is Mr. J. A. Cheseboro.  He keeps a well-appointed modern hotel, located on Lincoln Avenue, a few steps from the depot, a substantial building of forty rooms. The bathrooms are supplied with water from a hot sulphur well, located on the premises.  The table is excellent.  When we left this morning, Mr. Cheseboro invited me to come again and to be his guest for a week.</p><P>This morning we returned as far as St. Helena, and put up at Van Tassell's Hotel.  Mr. Theodore Van Tassell, the proprietor, is a gentlemanly man, refined and small in stature and dresses well; he has an attractive wife and a pretty daughter.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>This afternoon we drove over Howell Mountain, 5,000 feet high, to the &AElig;tna Hot Mineral Springs. The drive is beautiful over the red and white volcanic soil, through the redwood forests, -- occasionally coming on to some camping party who had built a rude house near a spring and were enjoying true mountain life, -- then winding up steep hills to the edge of some cliff, obtaining views of Pope Valley which would beggar description.</p><P>After sixteen miles of mountain travel we finally arrived at the &AElig;tna Springs, which are situated in a most beautiful spot, entirely surrounded by the mountains of the Coast Range.  Natural hot, water steams up from the ground, over which, in many places, little houses or coverings are built where people go in to drink the water, or to take steam or hot-water baths. Mr. and Mrs. Liddell are the proprietors. The number of campers has been so great for the last few years that they have opened several cottages near the springs, one of which is occupied by Mr. D. O. Mills of New York and his family.  Will Slocum and I were given what they call the "bridal chamber," -- a canvas tent put up on the grounds of the &AElig;tna Springs, as there was no room for us in the cottages.</p><P>We were glad, indeed, to take refuge in its cool shade after our journey, and are enjoying it greatly.  We are in close proximity to the springs, of which there are two, one having a temperature of 100 degrees.  The waters of these natural boiling springs are said to closely resemble Ems, in Europe, and to have curative properties for a long list of diseases. They smell quite strong of sulphur and contain carbonates of soda, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:magnesia and lime, and sulphates of soda, chloride of sodium and some silica.</p><P>JUNE 22. -- After catching enough trout for the party just after daybreak, using flies we caught from off our horses for bait, Slocum and I left the Springs at 6 A.M. and drove five and one-half miles through the Pope Valley over a very rough road. There is good trout fishing here, and deer and game in season, but a hotter place than the Pope Valley it would be hard to find, even in California.</p><P>At noon today the thermometer reached 114 degrees in the shade, and the heat was almost unbearable.  In the early evening, however, the fishing was good in the cool mountain streams, and we caught twenty beautiful trout from nine inches to a foot long; afterwards we enjoyed a bath in the hot sulphur water of the near-by springs, and returned to Liddell's before dark, tired and sleepy.</p><P>JUNE  23. -- We visited the Phoenix Cinnabar or Quicksilver Mines today. They are situated one mile northwest of the Springs, but are not being worked at present.  We were free, however, to explore the tunnels and carry off what specimens we chose, a privilege of which we availed ourselves, and then returned to our tent at &AElig;tna Springs for our last night here.  Jack rabbits, quail and gray squirrels abound in great numbers, and we are told that one hundred miles farther north there are many herds of deer, and rivers that have never been fished.</p><P>JUNE 24. -- We left the &AElig;tna Springs at three this morning and again drove five and one-half miles to the Pope Valley in time to fish for trout at daybreak; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:thence we went through part of the Charles Valley, and were pleasantly entertained at dinner by a friend of Slocum's. Afterwards we drove back to St. Helena, a distance of twenty miles, and arrived at Van Tassell's in time for supper.  After supper we started off again for Napa, a nineteen-mile drive, and got home pretty well tired out at 11 P.M.</p><P>JUNE 25. -- I was glad to sleep late this morning. This afternoon Slocum and I called on Miss Clara Volk, the pretty girl who is in charge of the only candy shop in town.</p><P>JUNE 27. -- Yesterday was Sunday, and I stayed quietly at home, resting after my trip.  In the evening I was called to the first medical case I have had here -- a man who had been injured in an accident.  Later this evening one John Kelly had delirium tremens. Will and I called in Dr. Wetmore and I took care of him all night.</p><P>JUNE 28. -- Kelly seems better this evening.  Dr. Wetmore, who is not more than fifty-five years old, came to Napa for his health about two months ago from Albany, New York, where he had practised for twenty-five years.  He has asked me to assist him in his practice here.  The Rev. Mr. Lewis, pastor of the church which we are attending, called on us today with his daughter.  David D. Fagan, who has been away on a trip connected with the County History, has now joined us.  I like him.  He is a clever young man of Irish extraction, with black hair, blue eyes and ruddy complexion, and a nose that turns up at the end; quite a contrast to Slocum, who has fair, tow-colored hair, a rather pale face, and always wears glasses over his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:blue eyes.  Professor Palmer is six feet tall, with a long face, a pointed goatee and a heavy shock of hair; all of his extremities are long, especially his fingers.</p><P>JULY 2. -- News of the assassination of President Garfield reached here by wire this morning.  He was shot about 9 A.M. by a man named Guiteau, who was arrested and lodged in prison, and Congress was immediately called together. The message said to notify Senator Miller and Colonel Jackson, the proprietor of the Napa Soda Springs, who is also editor of the "San Francisco Post."  There was apparently no one connected with the hotel who could ride a horse, and to drive a team all that distance (which would have been the only other way of communicating with the Springs) would have taken so long that Colonel Jackson would not have been able to get to Napa in time to catch the train for San Francisco today.</p><P>I volunteered to make the ride to the Springs, if Mr. Kelly would furnish me with a horse.  They brought out a shaggy old white horse, which they told me was the fastest steed in the stables. He was equipped with a bridle, but no saddle.  I rode that horse to Senator Miller's beautiful place, seven miles, in thirty-three minutes.  I saw Senator Miller and then on to the Soda Springs and notified Colonel Jackson, and the latter lent me a saddle and rode back with me, reaching Napa just in time to board his train.  The stores of San Francisco closed today and until after the 4th to allow business houses to recover from the news of the assassination.</p><P>JULY 4. -- I have been suffering more or less from hay fever, so Velma and I came to San Francisco with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHARLES J. GUITEAU</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:some of our friends from Napa, including Hattie Howland, and we are all stopping at the Grand Hotel. But life here is not a bed of roses, for there are plenty of fleas, even in San Francisco! The latest news is given out in the theatres between the acts, and this evening Velma and I went with Will Slocum to the Tivoli, where we heard the opera "Martha" and got the news about the President.  He is said to be a little better today.</p><P>JULY 5. -- Returned to Napa, leaving Hattie Howland behind, much to our regret. The papers say that the President's life is hanging in the balance, though the last official statement is somewhat more encouraging.  The San Francisco "Evening Bulletin" calls Guiteau a "moral monster," but it publishes an interview with him which states that he is "more like a religious fanatic than a crazy man"!  He is very anxious to know what the newspapers are saying about him; he thinks that the "New York Herald" would have backed him up in shooting the President.  He claims to have shot Garfield in order to unite the Republican party, as he felt the country would have gone to ruin unless the Republicans remained in power; but he was distressed to learn that the President was suffering -- said he would have put another bullet through him if he had realized that. He claims to have had the first good night's sleep after he did the deed that he has had for months.</p><ANCHOR ID="n1-14">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm:<P>In spite of this irresponsible point of view, the papers are clamoring for nothing but speedy vengeance, and the ablest criminal lawyers say that the insanity plea would be of no avail, as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:man talks coherently and is shrewd enough to realize his danger.  When planning the assassination, he went to the jail and made sure that it was strong enough to protect him from lynching.  No expert witnesses can <illus entity="a030-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A DISCUSSION BY THE ATTENDING AND CONSULTING SURGEONS, DRS. WOODWARD, HAMILTON, REYBURN, BARNES, AGNEW, BLISS</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:be found to testify to Guiteau's insanity, and it is doubtful if any lawyer will defend him.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-14">See "Manner of Man that Kills," L. Vernon Briggs.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>Yet surely his was not the act of a sane man! JULY 8. -- It is reported that President Garfield was shot through the liver.  They dress his wounds twice a day and keep him under morphine. They have been able to administer only milk and rum and ten-grain doses of bisulphate of ammonia.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>JULY 11. -- Mother, Velma and I visited Mr. Matthews' wine cellars today. We invested in a bottle of sherry and one of most delicious port for 50 cents apiece, and a bottle of excellent whiskey for $1, all of the very best, made by the man himself, who told us just how he did it.  He wanted us to taste almost everything.  He is too generous for us to go there often! In the grape season the best grapes sell for 50 cents for a box of 30 pounds, and wine grapes sell for from $18 to $30 a ton.  I take three fresh eggs every morning with some of the sherry wine.  We have called during the past few days on the Owens, the Bests, the Forbeses and the Benners; on Mrs. Greene, Mrs. Bullock and Mrs. Bent.</p><P>JULY 13. -- Velma and I drove to the Napa Soda Springs today in a very comfortable carriage with four horses over the road on the side of the mountain. The road is so difficult four horses are necessary to make any sort of time.  This is a health resort, 1,000 feet above sea level, about halfway up the mountain on the sunny side. The mountain abounds in a luxurious growth of the large-leaved maple, the madrona, the manzanita, the snowberry dogwood, with its snowy white flowers, the chestnut and wild rose, the eucalyptus or Australian gum tree, the Italian cypress, the Eastern elm, the almond, olive, orange and fig trees, and numerous other varieties, and many species of ferns. The "California Horticulturist," in speaking of these springs, says that four thousand gallons flow daily from them, mingling iron, soda, magnesia, lime and muriate of soda with free carbonic acid gas in such combination as to impart pleasure, health and physical improvement as the result of their use.  Three hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:dozen bottles a day are packed in the busy season.The view looking toward the south from the springs includes fields of variegated crops, the bay, the Coast Range Mountains, and the blue sky above all, blending in one magnificent picture.  Colonel Jackson, the editor of a San Francisco paper, has done much to improve this property. He has erected a large stone rotunda, two stories high in front and four in the rear; a shed for the teams of transient visitors, a building of stone for guests and a building containing the kitchen, dining room and reading room; in the lower story of the adjacent structure is the bottling room of the soda works. Next to this are the springs bubbling up into artificial basins covered with canopies of brick. The club house, with its adjacent structures costing $100,000, is of stone and stands on an elevation commanding a view of the entire grounds. At a short distance from these buildings are the living quarters for the guests, several small buildings with perhaps three or four rooms in each, and a very fine stable which cost about $60,000. After it was finished they thought it too good for horses, so they keep the horses in the basement and use the main floor for dancing; above is another story with two rooms finished off, which are rented for $15 a week apiece, the same price they charge for the other rooms.  Bath houses, gas and running water are among the modern conveniences the visitor finds at this place.  On the whole, it is one of the pleasantest places in all northern California during the extremely hot weather.  Napa County is one place where the poet cannot write - <HI REND="blockindent"> The melancholy days have come, The saddest in the year,</HI>
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030.sgm:in autumn, for here there is so little variation that the seasons are scarcely noticed. Colonel Jackson has spent nearly $700,000, and the hotel is not yet finished.</p><P>JULY 15. -- Will and I went to Oatville, Yountville and Rutherford yesterday, passing through Childs Valley and visiting several of the principal vineyards.</p><illus entity="a030-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NAPA SODA SPRINGS AND HOTEL</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<P>Today we called on the Misses Jackson.  The papers tell us that the President takes a little beef tea, Tokay wine and small sandwiches, and is considered out of danger. This is pleasant news.</p><P>JULY 16. -- The "Widow Bedotte" theatrical company is stopping at the Palace Hotel, and we went to see them act at the Napa Opera House this evening. Charles B. Bishop takes the leading part.</p><P>JULY 17. -- We all attended the dedication of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:Catholic church today -- a solemn service and an important event for Napa.</p><P>JULY 19. -- This morning we watched men loading two tons of quicksilver, which was put up in flasks, on to the little river steamer at the wharf in Napa. Great bales of wheat were also being shipped. We saw prisoners working on the road, with iron chains fastening great iron balls to their ankles.  The principal streets here are usually watered, but when they are not watered, or if one goes outside the city, words can convey no idea of the thick clouds of fine dust that settle on everybody and everything.  As there are no street cars or public conveyances, one has to hire carriages from the livery stables, of which there are a number in town. Mr. Kelly has by far the best horses, and he says that he made $900 clear last month on his stable alone.</p><P>A man named Brooks, a patient from the Asylum, comes here almost every day for his dinner. He keeps his own horse and buggy and a servant, and is said to have an income of about $100 a day. Recently he ran away from his attendant, and although the hotel was searched most thoroughly, he could not be found. Later, some one in the street said there was a man on the roof, and the clerks and the attendant immediately went up there and tried to take him, but he evaded them, dodging around the chimneys and running even to the gutters. After they had given up the chase and returned to the hotel office he came down, laughing, and apparently thinking he had played a great joke on them. He is a fine looking man, rather tall, with stone-gray hair and moustache and a straight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:nose.  They tell me that he came from Baltimore thirty years ago, and established himself as a merchant tailor in San Francisco, where he made his fortune. One day recently he walked over to our table in the dining room and said to Velma, "I want to marry you"! Then turning to mother he added, "I guess you will give your consent, -- if not, and she goes back to Boston, I shall follow and hunt her up." We have had a good deal of fun with Velma about this suitor.</p><P>JULY 22. -- Will and I came up to St. Helena yesterday and stopped at the Van Tassell's for the night, and today I drove Mr. Van Tassell to the White Sulphur Springs, a beautiful, almost primeval spot in a deep, romantic canyon about two miles west of St. Helena. A wild deer crossed our path as we proceeded up the canyon, and seemed not much frightened. The springs are a little too strong of sulphur for us to enjoy drinking the water, though some of the patrons get used to the strong taste and drink it three times a day.  These springs were discovered in 1848 by John York, an old pioneer, who arrived here late in 1845, some time before the first discovery of gold. The old man is still alive and we had the pleasure of seeing and conversing with him.</p><P>On our return to the Palace Hotel in Napa tonight, we learned that a guest, whose room was not far from our own, had killed himself. This man arrived yesterday and registered as "C. S. Smith, Arizona."  He appeared to be about thirty years old. This afternoon, according to the barkeeper, Mr. Smith stepped up to the bar and invited him to take a glass of sherry, after which Smith went back to the billiard room, and <illus entity="a030-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>L. VERNON BRIGGS, 1881 Photo by Dickson, Honolulu</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:immediately afterward a shot was heard.  The barkeeper went into the room and found Smith on the floor with his head shattered.  From his position and the powder-burned condition of his left hand it appeared that he had walked up to a large mirror that hung on the east wall of the room, placed the pistol to his right ear and, holding the weapon with both hands, pulled the trigger.  The ball went in at the ear and came out just above the left temple, hit the wall near the ceiling, and fell to the floor all battered.  Death must have ensued instantly.  Velma says the man had been pacing up and down the walk for hours at a time, and that he ate with his head on his hand.  No one here knows anything about him; on looking over his things they find that he has destroyed every vestige of his name from his books and clothing.  This is not such a large house but what an affair like this creates a good deal of excitement, and today the news of the suicide has cast a gloom over the whole town.</p><P>JULY  24. -- Called on Miss May Monelle Stansbury,<ANCHOR ID="n1-1-5">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: whom we are seeing very often, and a Miss Smith today; also took Mr. Thorn, Manager of the Grand Hotel, San Francisco, to the Napa Soda Springs. Afterwards I went with Dave Fagan for a drive to the tannery to "write it up."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1-5">A San Francisco paper of 1916 has the following notice:<HSEP>Mrs. Mansfield, who was formerly May Monelle Stansbury of Sacramento, died Saturday evening in her apartments in the Fairmont, following an attack of bronchitis Thursday last. She was one of the authorities of the country on genealogy, and was sponsor of the National Society of Americans of Royal Descent. In this work she was qualified not alone by education, but by birth, for "Burke's Peerage" and other works confirmed her as a descendant of Alfred the Great, Charlemagne, William the Conqueror and Robert I, King of France.  Her ancestors came to this country in 1698 and settled in Pennsylvania. The International Congress of the National Society of Americans of Royal Descent which met here July 27 last was largely her work. Of this Society she was honorary vice-president general. She was a leading figure in the Colonial Dames of America and the corresponding secretary in this State.  She was also corresponding member of the Society of Genealogists in London, and was a member of the order of the Crown and of the Pocahontas Memorial Association.  Mrs. Mansfield had one of the finest libraries on genealogy in this country.  She numbered among her friends hundreds of the best known men and women of this State.</NOTE>
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030.sgm:<P>JULY 25. -- Velma and I started from Napa at 10.30 this morning and went by train to Calistoga, where we arrived at half past twelve.  There I made a bargain with Foss, the noted stage driver, about whom we have heard so much since we came to California, to drive us to the Geysers.  He is about sixty-three years old, rather taller than the average, and weighs about two hundred and twenty-five pounds.  He has short side whiskers, and a cud of tobacco extends his left cheek beyond its otherwise usual dimensions.  He likes to talk and does a little boasting -- is rather a rough character, especially in appearance, and goes about in his shirtsleeves with his vest unbuttoned.  He is considered by every one the most wonderful stage driver on this coast -- "the third best in the world."  He is quite wealthy and owns much land near here at a place named for him, -- Fossville.  Foss is celebrated as a "dashing driver;" he has great control over his fiery running horses, and is very skillful with green horses; he makes great speed on the road, rounding quick, sharp turns in dangerous places with his six horses in perfect control and on a gallop.</p><P>"A trip to the Geysers without Foss," says a writer of many years ago, "is like the play of `Hamlet' with that melancholy gentleman left out.  Not only is he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:an unequaled driver, but he is a man of genius.  In person he is more than six feet two inches in height, and is as strong as a giant, has the voice of a tragedian, and is a fine specimen of muscular development and <illus entity="a030-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE GEYSERS -- FOSS IN HIS GEYSERS HOTEL</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:vigor.  With a fresh team of six horses and a load of appreciative passengers, Foss is in his glory.  Alternately coaxing and encouraging his horses up the steepest acclivities, his eye sparkles at the top as he gathers the reins, carefully places his foot on the brake and turns half around and looks over the coach to see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:that the passengers are all there, when `crack' goes the whip, a shout to the horses, and away we go down the steep mountainside.  Trees fly past like wind; bushes dash angrily against the wheels; the ladies shut their eyes and grasp the arms of the male passengers, and away we speed down the declivity with lightning rapidity, the horses on a live jump, and Foss, whip in hand, cracking it about their heads to urge them on. The effect is at first anything but pleasant. At every lurch of the coach one feels an instinctive dread of being tossed high in the air and landed far below in a gorge, or, perchance, spitted upon the top of a sharp pine. If a horse should stumble or misstep, or the tackle snap away, we should go over the precipice. The angle of declivity is exceedingly sharp, and down this descent the horses are run at breakneck speed for two miles and a half, making thirty-five turns -- some of them extra short ones."</p><P>Today our stage was a mountain wagon which we mounted with the other passengers, a Quaker family named Mendenhall, who had come all the way from Oscaloosa, Iowa, the mother aged sixty-three, the father seventy-three, a daughter of twenty-seven and a granddaughter of six, country folk. With a crack of the whip and a loud "Go lang!" the mustangs started off on a full gallop over the hot and dusty road.  It was terribly rough, and the old lady was pretty well frightened.  She said that she thought the round trip over that mountain road would be about as much as she ever should want.  Our way for the first six miles led through farming country, and we finally were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:driven up to a large, hospitable looking house belonging to Clark Foss, where we dined and rested for an hour and a half.  This place, with the house and a big and convenient stable, goes by the name of Fossville.  The Fosses have recently put in a telephone from their house to the Geysers, and when Foss stepped up to the box and began talking, the old Quaker lady, who was standing near, was most puzzled.  Their dialogue was amusing;  speaking through her nose, she said, "Now <HI REND="italics">who</HI>
030.sgm: is thee talking to?"  "Why, marm, I'm talking up to the Geysers."  "Up to the Geysers? How far air the Geysers?" "Twenty miles, marm."  "Thee don't say so!"  "Yes, marm, I'm talking all the way on a wire." The old lady evidently accepted this for one of Foss's celebrated jokes.  "On a <HI REND="italics">wire</HI>
030.sgm:?"  "Yes, <HI REND="italics">marm</HI>
030.sgm:."  "Well, law sakes, who'd <HI REND="italics">think</HI>
030.sgm: thee could talk all that distance on a wire."</p><P>At two o'clock we again took our seats in a three-seated coach, canopy top, and with fresh horses we resumed our journey.  Passing Kellogg and Holmes's we commenced our climb up the Mayacamus Branch of the Coast Range, through a country scarcely yet disturbed by man.  The route is beautiful in the extreme; emerging from heavy growths of timber from time to time into open spaces we invariably had views of mountains with high peaks covered with primeval forest -- not a house in sight anywhere; and when we skirted the brink of a precipice, we looked down hundreds of feet into dense brush or the tops of beautiful green forest trees.  At the very bottom we could see mountain streams, clear as crystal, and through our glasses trout could be seen breaking the water to catch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:unfortunate flies. Boulders were pointed out bearing the usual worn-out names of "Lover's Leap" and "Devil's Pulpit," etc.</p><P>From Fossville we went up for four miles and then descended to the Little Pluton River which we forded, and again climbed through timber of several varieties, including oak, madrona and manzanita, until we got above the forest growth and reached the "upper Station," twenty miles from Calistoga and six from the Geysers, a deserted mining town called "Pine Flats," away up in this wilderness 3,000 feet above the level of the sea. One man and his wife were the only inhabitants left. We bought a few curiosities from them and changed conveyances, parting with Foss, who turned us over to another driver named Safely -- of course every one said they expected to be driven <HI REND="italics">safely</HI>
030.sgm: to the Geysers. Now began the most exciting portion of the journey. After leaving Pine Flats our road lay up and down steep grades, over stones and around sharp corners bordering on precipices.  When rounding one of these corners we saw, 500 feet below, a miners' camp, -- two or three log cabins, with here and there a place where they had thrown up the earth in their zeal for quicksilver. Looking down upon that little camp one could not help wondering about those few men -- whence did they come, where are their families, what is to be their future? Are they perhaps successful in their search? Such questions run through our minds often in this country as we pass strange men in the wilds. Down one grade, up another, down a third; then the driver presses hard on the brakes, and here we are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:at the Geysers Hotel, Bill Forsyth, proprietor.  It is an inviting place after the long drive, situated on the side of a mountain called Hog's Back, and nearly hidden among the great trees with its yard and surroundings.  Alighting, we were greeted by about fifteen <illus entity="a030-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ARRIVING AT THE GEYSERS HOTEL, JULY 25, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:guests and an affable clerk, who gave us two very good rooms where we were glad of an opportunity to wash after our drive of twenty-six miles over one of the dustiest roads in all Sonoma County, where dusty roads are the rule.</p><P>Were we dusty?  Indeed we were.  We were perfectly white from head to foot. After spending nearly an hour removing a peck or so of the outer dirt, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:partook heartily of a very good meal.  After supper we were glad to stretch our legs cramped by their position in the coach all day, and Velma and I took a short stroll around the grounds of the hotel and watched a monkey climbing on the flagstaff.  The first "hotel" built on this site was in 1854 and was made of cloth.  The place became very popular, in spite of the difficulties in reaching it, and in 1875, 3,500 names were registered at the hotel.  We were glad to retire early after our strenuous day.</p><P>JULY 26. -- We arose at five this morning, and at five-thirty we started to walk to the Geysers, about half a mile away.</p><P>The Geysers are located in the Mayacamus range of mountains which separate Sonoma from Napa and Lake counties. They are 1,700 feet above the level of the sea, situated among scenery which defies description.  It is certainly a most beautiful spot.  These springs were discovered in 1847 by a farmer named William B. Elliott.  There are a hundred-odd springs, of all temperatures, colors and noises.  The healing properties of the springs were long known to the Indians.  There is one spring, now known as the Indian sweat bath, where the rheumatic patient was wont to be brought and laid upon a temporary grating directly over the hot steam of the spring, and there he was steamed until cured, or relieved from his sufferings by death.  These springs are scattered along the Pluton River for five miles above and two miles below the hotel.  The principal ones, however, lie within half a mile of it, a little way across the river and up a narrow gorge called "Devil's Canyon," which opens into the <illus entity="a030-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GEYSERS HOTEL, SONOMA COUNTY, CAL., 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW FROM THE GEYSERS HOTEL, GEYSERS, CAL., 1881></p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DEVIL'S TEA KETTLE, GEYSERS, CAL., 1881</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:Pluton about 2,000 feet below the hotel. The time to see them to the best advantage is early in the morning, for when it is cold the steam shows much more clearly, and we had timed our expedition accordingly. Our guide was a tall, lean, lanky fellow of about sixty summers, with a short moustache and side whiskers. His language was a curiosity -- a specimen of something, but what, it would be hard to tell.  He told us many amusing stories.  Each of us was furnished with a long walking stick before we began our tour through the canyon.  First, we came to an iron spring, and, following the custom, all tasted of each spring.  Continuing our tramp we crossed the Pluton by means of a narrow footbridge, passed the steam bath house, and soon came upon the Eye Spring, whose dark-colored waters are said to have been used by the Indians for all diseases of the eye. "Proserpine's Grotto" in the Devil's Canyon was next seen, and there we found Epsom salts hanging in crystals on the walls. As we went onward, gradually ascending, the ground became unbearably hot, our shoes began to burn and smell, and steam rushed out of ventholes in the hillsides and underfoot.  A feeling of insecurity seizes the stranger, making him reflect strongly on his past life and possible future punishment.  The hot ground admits of no delay, and passing we found ourselves in the "Devil's Machine Shop."  This is dotted by "infernal" springs, bubbling and boiling with sulphur and iron solutions, and sending steam more than 40 feet in the air.  One of these springs furnishes "devil's ink," some of which we secured and found to be quite a good writing fluid, and much better than half the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:ink that is forced upon the market nowadays. We saw the alum, sulphur, magnesia and iron springs. The banks on either side of the canyon are most beautiful, the color of the sides being variegated on account of the minerals.  A few steps farther up the canyon we beheld the greatest geyser of all -- "Witches' Caldron," 6 by 8 feet, and 4 feet deep.  It contains iron, sulphur and alum, has a temperature of 212 degrees, and will boil an egg hard in three minutes. The steam from this spring rose over one hundred feet the morning we were there.  The "Devil's Canopy" appeared at the right, a projection from the bank composed of stalactites of sulphur and iron.  The "Steamboat Springs" were just ahead of us; the steam escaped from the ground there in distinct puffs, like the waste steam from a factory, and we learned that on certain days the force from this venthole sends the steam three hundred feet in the air.  We reached the head of the canyon, or the "Devil's Pulpit," with our hands full of specimens. Turning to the east the guide led us to a spot most delightful to visit, after having gone through the canyon -- "Lovers' Retreat," where a stream of pure cold water runs through a clump of beautiful trees.  From there we went upon "General Hooker's Lookout," on the eastern bank of the canyon.  The view was beyond description. On the east is the crater, and near it is the "Devil's Oven," which is a small side hill, and has great heat.  The "Devil's Teakettle" is a short distance from the oven, and as the steam rushes out it makes a terrible whistling noise.  Thus is completed the list of his Satanic Majesty's kitchen furniture. Taking a circuitous route to the hotel we passed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:several more iron and white sulphur springs, acid and Indian baths, and a dry canyon whose walls are composed of alum. The odors in some places were almost unbearable.</p><P>Certainly this is the most wonderful laboratory in the world.  The causes which produce this phenomenon of the Geysers are the subject of much discussion. A majority of scientists accept the theory that the steam and internal heat are produced by the antagonism of mineral substances in the earth, which with water flowing through them, cause an effect like that of wetting unslaked lime. But, although chemists generally accept this as the most plausible theory, it is difficult to convince "outsiders" that the Geysers have other origin than that of most volcanoes, differing only in degree.  To strengthen this opinion, the adjacent mountains show undoubted evidence of volcanic action.  The "Witches' Caldron," the "Steamboat Springs," the metallic hills, the hot river, the unearthly roaring and whistling of the steam as it is forced through the ground, are scenes and sounds not easily described. Scientific and hydrographical accounts have been written, but no pen can give a correct idea of these boiling chemical springs, these seething caldrons, the steam and force from which may some time be used to great advantage.  The hills are also full of mineral wealth, but wherever a cane is run a foot into the ground and withdrawn, a column of steam rushes out and a new geyser is formed.</p><P>But to come back to the end of our tour. We emerged from this laboratory, crossed the Pluton, and soon found ourselves back at the hotel, with a good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:appetite for our breakfast. After this meal we enjoyed a most beautiful picture -- the valley backed by the high range of mountains.  Soon the stage was driven up and the ride home begun.  From the Geysers back to Calistoga we stopped but twice, once to water the horses, and at Kellogg's, a summer resort situated in Knights Valley, at the foot of Mt. St. Helena.  It is seven miles from Calistoga and nineteen miles from the Geysers, and is a pretty place though often extremely warm.  It is a popular resort for invalids, and there is plenty of hunting and fishing in the immediate vicinity. The house has a capacity of about one hundred and twenty-five guests. The notes describing this trip in my journal were written with ink from the "Devil's Inkstand."  They are still legible after fifty years, though slightly faded.</p><P>JULY 27. -- We spent the night again in Calistoga, at the Magnolia Hotel.  This morning Velma and I started off in a top buggy with a brake, drawn by a fine pair of mouse-colored young horses, to visit the Petrified Forest, which lies five miles from Calistoga in the direction of Santa Rosa.  It was a beautiful mountainous trip.  Mr. and Mrs. Leckter rode on horseback beside us, making a pleasant little party. The winding road from Calistoga to the forest is picturesque and beautiful, either side being covered with groves of oaks, pines, madronas and manzanitas, and the tourist cannot help being struck with the beauty and grandeur of the scene as he goes up and up to the top of the mountain, then down into Sonoma County and the Petrified Forest, which is located 2,000 feet above the level of the sea.  It was discovered in 1870 by C. H. Dennison of San Francisco.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>In that year Prof. O. C. Marsh visited the place and decided that it was mainly composed of metamorphic rocks of the cretaceous age, which are in places overlaid by later tertiary strata, consisting of light-colored, coarse sandstone and beds of stratified volcanic ashes.  The trees lie at five or six different levels -- on the lower, almost north and south; at the highest, northeast and southwest. At the high level the trees must have been buried under eighty or a hundred feet of lava; at the lowest, five hundred feet.  Their dip conforms to the dip of the turfa, and is at an angle of from thirty to forty-five degrees.  They are in fragments, many of which have been converted into charcoal, others into lignite, and others into beautiful specimens of jet. Where the heart of a tree had decayed the cavity is filled with a substance resembling opal, a form of lustrous, uncrystallized silica containing water.  Chalcedony, another form of silica, but clear and limpid, is found in other cavities. No top has been petrified, and only here and there a root.  Many have been charred by fire, and some were broken after petrifaction had taken place, as there is no mark of splintering or bruising.  The majority of the trees are redwood, and measure from 70 to 120 feet in length and from 5 to 11 feet in diameter.  The largest is called the "Queen of the Forest."</p><P>One tree shows marks of having been hacked with an axe, probably made of obsidian, as all the prehistoric implements from this locality were made of this substance, a volcanic rock, which appears in abundance all about.  There is no mistaking the fact that the cutting was done before the petrifaction began, as the cuts appear at different angles to the grain of the wood.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:The deduction is inevitable that man was in California before the birth of Mt. St. Helena, and also that he was of a type superior to the people who inhabited it at the advent of the European, for he knew how to fashion cutting tools.</p><P>The direction in which the trees lie, the formation of the earth from which they were excavated, and the appearance of scor&aelig; scattered about and walls of black turfa crested with rock as white as chalk, all tend to show that they fell by the heavy shock of an earthquake, or were swept by the flow of lava which followed, and have lain buried perhaps hundreds of thousands of years, forming into every state of crystallization.  "Petrified Charley" (Evans) died a few days before our arrival; he lived many years here the life of a hermit, unearthing the trees and selling curious specimens, among which was a petrified snake.  A relative of his, a widow named Evans, lives on the place now and receives the profits.</p><P>There is some talk of building a hotel on or near the grove, but though it is beautifully located, there would be great inconvenience in reaching the place. Returning to Calistoga, we scarcely removed our feet from the brakes the entire way, so steep was the grade, and the two horses that were attached to the buggy that I drove fairly flew down some of the steep inclines. From Calistoga we came back by train this afternoon as far as St. Helena, and this evening, hiring another horse and buggy, we drove out to Pellet's Vineyard and wine cellar.  They are making about 20,000 gallons of wine this year from their own grapes.</p><P>JULY 28. -- St. Helena is a very attractive place.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:There are pleasant walks, fine residences well kept up, and beautiful drives in several directions.  The pleasantest of these drives is that to the White Sulphur Springs, only about two miles away.  I went there with Will last week, and this morning I drove out again to show it all to Velma.  On our return we passed through St. Helena, and out in another direction to Krug's Vineyard, which covers hundreds of acres, and we then visited his wine cellar, where we saw a great cask that contains 10,000 gallons of wine. The crop this year will yield 200,000 gallons.  The proprietors of all these vineyards and wine cellars are most hospitable, and insist upon our sampling the different wines and taking some home with us.  This afternoon we came back to Napa by train from St. Helena, much refreshed by our delightful trip through one of the richest valleys in California.</p><P>JULY 30. -- Slocum and I have just returned from a long drive up the valley to Ukiah, in Mendocino County. The approach to this beautiful city, through a valley of fertile fields, is lovely; to the right and left of us large flocks of sheep and herds of cattle are sheltering themselves from the hot rays of the sun beneath the widespread limbs of the western oaks. After some time we inquired how much farther it was to the city, and were told that it was close at hand, but we looked in vain for any evidence of the fact. The forests seemed to enclose the entire landscape. By degrees, however, a change began.  Farmhouses changed into suburban cottages, and these in turn to city residences. A moment more and the horses were drawn up before the hotel.  We alighted, shook off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:some of the terra firma and opened our eyes to find ourselves in one of the liveliest little cities we have yet visited. After a wash we found that we had an hour and a half before dinner, so we took a stroll about the town.</p><P>Nestled as it is among the trees of a magnificent grove of pine, firs and oaks it is completely hidden as one approaches from any direction.  It was a very warm day, and as we sauntered along we took especial note of the many fine churches, -- Baptist, Episcopal, Presbyterian, Catholic and other denominations. The bank of Ukiah is a fine building with an imitation stone front.  The town supports five newspapers, a brewery, a public school, fire company, sawmills and flour mills. Continuing our walk through a still busier part of the town, we saw four livery stables, three barbers, a grocery store, restaurant, jewelry store and a gunsmith, three dentists, three shoe stores, eight with general merchandise, three drug stores, five physicians, <HI REND="italics">fourteen</HI>
030.sgm: lawyers and eight saloons, with a few other stores not enumerated, and a population of three thousand constitutes what I call a lively little town.</p><P>Ukiah was first settled in 1851 by John Parker. The Indians at that time were quite uncivilized and savage. Parker constructed a block house and was provided with arms and ammunition to protect himself.  Soon afterwards he was attacked and severely wounded, and but for the timely arrival of help he would have perished alone. Since 1851, however, the town has grown rapidly.  There are several secret societies, among others the Good Templars, Royal Arch Masons, Odd Fellows and the Ancient Order of United Workmen.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MRS. HOWLAND, WIFE OF CAPT. JOHN HOWLAND, NAPA, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>EMMA HAAS, NAPA, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<P>The chief products of this town and valley I found to be cereals and hops, and though no finer fruits and vegetables can be produced in the State, the town is so far from the market that it is not profitable to raise produce so perishable.  Ukiah seems like one large flower garden, and nothing impresses the stranger more forcibly than the neat yards and houses and the abundant display of flowers to be found here. The winters here are never severe, and the summers are not oppressive.  The temperature seldom rises much above 90 degrees, and when it does, the air is so dry and light that one would not think it over 80 degrees at the highest.</p><P>Many readers will ask how the name <HI REND="italics">Ukiah</HI>
030.sgm: originated, as I did on first hearing it, and on reaching the town I hunted up an old pioneer who gave me the following version.  It was originally an Indian word and was spelled <HI REND="italics">Yokia</HI>
030.sgm:; this was transformed into <HI REND="italics">Yokaya</HI>
030.sgm:; the next transformation was <HI REND="italics">Ukia</HI>
030.sgm:, and it can be seen so spelled on the records as late as 1860 or 1870. Since then the <HI REND="italics">h</HI>
030.sgm: has been added. This is the most probable explanation, though I will cite another alleged origin which appeared in the "Marysville Express" in 1864, as follows:</p><P>Capt. A. C. Bledsoe was sheriff of Sonoma County before Mendocino was cut off from Sonoma. Being in the northern part of the county attempting to summon a jury, he found almost every one biased by having read newspaper accounts of the case in question. Finally he came to a solitary cabin hard by a big spring where he stopped for a cool drink, for the day was very hot. As the place seemed too remote to be much influenced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:by the daily papers, he accosted a tall, gaunt, middle-aged woman engaged in hanging out clothes, and learning her husband's name, asked to see him in order to serve a process.  The man's Christian name was Hezekiah, and his better half set up a most unearthly yell: "You 'Kiah! You 'Kiah! You 'Kiah!" and finally her better half in bifurcated butternut toggery came rushing in with a stride that measured his length at every step.  This name made an impression on the sheriff so great that he is said to have suggested it for the new town. The reader may choose whichever explanation he likes.</p><P>After dinner we took a walk over the hills lying to the west of the town, and there we found a mossy seat from which we had a glorious view of the beautiful scene which spread before us as far as the eye could reach.  The air seemed to cast a magic spell upon everything.  Below us lay the little city, nestled in a network of evergreens, and beyond, in bold relief, stood out the dome of the Court House; here and there from the grove arose the spires of churches.</p><P>For the next ten days we remained in Napa, taking only short pleasure trips and making pleasant acquaintances, lunching and dining out.</p><P>Among our best friends in Napa were the Howlands. Captain Howland ran the river boat to San Francisco. He had formerly been a man of some property, but had lost $100,000 through his partner's speculations. He and his wife came from New Bedford nine years ago.  (Mrs. Howland had her 95th birthday March 9, 1931, and entertained 14 people at dinner and 24 after dinner.)  Their daughter, Mrs. Solomon L. Haas was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:the wife of a prominent merchant in Napa, known throughout the valley.  He was born in Germany in 1840, had come to this country while yet a boy, and started in business in the Napa Valley with his brother; in 1876 he had closed out that business and entered into partnership with Asa R. Ford in the dry goods business, of which he later became sole proprietor.</p><P>S. L. Haas died while on a visit to San Francisco on January 3, 1883, at the Grand Hotel. His widow married Fred L. Button, who later deceased, and she died in 1930, leaving several children.<ANCHOR ID="n1-16">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-16">Mrs. Emma H. Button, widow of the late Fred L. Button and a member of one of the pioneer families of Oakland, died Sunday night, October 26, at the Lakeview Hospital, where a losing fight against the disease that claimed her life had been bravely fought for the past nine months.<HSEP>Mrs. Button was the daughter of Captain and Mrs. John Howland, the latter of whom survives her. She was born December 25, 1858, aboard the whaling vessel of which her father was master in a Peruvian port.  In 1885 she married Fred L. Button, and her husband became one of the leading attorneys of the state.<HSEP>Throughout her life Mrs. Button was active in welfare work and was prominent in the charities associated with the Masonic order. She was a member of the Commandery Social Club, Daughters of the Nile, Scottish Rite Ladies' Club, Ebell and Oakland Pioneers.<HSEP>She is survived by her mother, Mrs. Howland, and three daughters, Mrs. Nicholas T. Luning, 5920 Keith Avenue, Mrs. B. Merrill, 5536 Manila Avenue, and Mrs. Daniel H. Knox, 2537 Encinal Avenue, Alameda.  There are also two grandsons, David and Fred Merrill, sons of Mrs. Freda Merrill.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>I have already referred to Captain Howland's niece, Miss Hattie Howland, who was our intimate friend and who had accompanied us on our trip to San Francisco early in July, and made many other trips with us to that city, usually to go to the theatre, returning the following day.  She was the prettiest girl in the valley and was considered a great belle.<ANCHOR ID="n1-27">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: Among other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:young acquaintances were Miss Bullock and Miss Cutter.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-27">She later married Williamson Finnell, and resides, in 1931, at Berkeley, California.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>The notes in my journal for this period are brief. On July 30 a six-year-old boy, the son of Judge Wallace, was drowned in Napa Creek.  On August 2 Mr. Brooks again slipped his attendant, and after hiding in a bedroom managed to escape to the roof and give everybody a fright. On August 7 we made up a coach party and drove to Hudermann's Ranch, and my journal adds, "Also visited Barth's place, which is much like the Hunnewell place in Wellesley, Massachusetts, and we fed some of the many elk that he has pastured there."  On August 9 the young people of the hotel gave a play, "Mulligan's Guards;" they were dressed as ridiculously as possible.  Velma was pianist for the evening.  I wore a peanut costume.</p><P>On the 12th of August I went again to the Soda Springs with another party, consisting of my sister, Hattie Howland, Mr. and Mrs. Shurtleff, Mr. and Mrs. Noyes, Mr. and Mrs. Mather, O. P. Meyers and Mr. Johnson.  We all rolled tenpins and danced until late in the evening.  The 13th of August was my 18th birthday, and I was rejoiced to receive from my father a beautiful hand-made Schaeffer gun, a breech-loader, with a double bolted rebounding pistol stock, which he had taken much pains to select for me from the maker's shop on Elm Street in Boston.  I learned afterwards that mother had written him she thought I would like a good gun for my birthday, and indeed nothing could have given me more pleasure than to find this among many other presents from family and friends.  I considered the gun among my most cherished possessions.  It is now (1931) in the possession <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:of my son, Lloyd Cabot Briggs, and is being used by him.</p><P>We, as well as many of our friends, had ceased going to the Episcopal Church which we had attended when we first came to Napa, because of what we felt to be the very unpatriotic behavior of the Rector, the Rev. Mr. Leacock.  He was a Democrat, and since President Garfield had been shot he was the only minister in that part of the country who had offered no prayers for the recovery of the President.  We not only avoided his services, but had ceased to meet him socially.</p><P>I continue quoting from my journal:</p><P>AUGUST 15. -- Started off today with Slocum on another trip of investigation for his History, driving a nice pair of ponies with a sort of express wagon in which we packed our tents and provisions. We drove over the mountains to Berryessa Valley, through Gordon Valley. The road is extremely dusty this time of year, owing to the large trucks loaded with quicksilver which travel from the Knoxville quicksilver mine to Napa. The scenery is superb, and the waving wheat, hundreds of acres of which we passed, looked like a golden realm in such a wild, mountainous country. Quail are plentiful and quite tame, also the turtledove, and cottontail and jackass rabbits; and I had my game bag well filled on arrival from what shooting I had while standing in the team. I have shot twenty-seven doves before it was fairly light in this valley, and innumerable rabbits.</p><P>We passed many ranches bearing peculiar names, such as "Hole in the Wall," "Windy Flats," etc. The valley was named for the Berryessas, a Mexican family <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:to whom it was granted by the Mexican government. Senor Berryessa's body now rests peacefully near the roadside, far down the valley, which is nearly twenty miles in length. Arriving at Monticello, a farming and mining town of about 100 inhabitants, twenty-five miles from Napa, we put up at a hotel kept by E. A. Peacock, to whom belongs the distinction of building the first house in the town of Monticello in 1866.</p><P>AUGUST 17. -- We remained yesterday in Monticello, and I enjoyed fishing in Putah Creek which runs back of the town. Of all the dusty places in this region this is the dustiest place I ever was in. We were white from the time we entered it until we left. The seats, tables, floors and counters, and all the articles on them, were buried in dust by the passing teams or puffs of wind; a cloud of dust arose from our beds as we retired for the night.  I enjoyed talking with the inhabitants, who were kind and friendly, but, as one visitor at the hotel expressed it, "They do want to know where you cut your first tooth and how old you were; when and where you were born." Although the population is about 100, but three of the feminine sex were visible during the entire two days that we spent there.</p><P>On these trips we usually rise at four in the morning -- a very good hour to shoot, and I use my new gun to advantage.  We not only furnish ourselves with what game we can use, but help out the tables of our hosts from time to time. Today, on the way back to Napa, I shot twenty turtledoves, eight quail and three rabbits.  Returning by way of Yountville, we visited Chills Valley, Oakville, and a few of the principal vineyards.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>I spent most of my time for the next ten days in Napa with my family and friends.  During that time Slocum and I made a gunning trip to the Knoxville Quicksilver Mines, but we found ourselves back in Napa on August 26. Here I was informed that during my absence Sol. Haas<ANCHOR ID="n1-18">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: had taken offense at something I was <HI REND="italics">reported</HI>
030.sgm: to have said or done, -- I never knew what it was, -- and I was warned that he was going about in search of me and had threatened to shoot me on sight.  Such events were not uncommon in the pioneer days in California.  Having a revolver, I went out to look for him, and we met on the bridge.  Both stopped, each with a hand on his revolver.  After gazing at each other for some time, we passed!</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-18">The Napa "Daily Register" of January 3, 1583, says:<HSEP>A brief telegram announcing that S. L. Haas of this city died at the Grand Hotel, San Francisco, at 10.50 o'clock this forenoon, was received here shortly after the sad event. The unexpected news quickly spread through the town and created a feeling of sadness on every hand, as the deceased had been for many years one of the prominent merchants of Napa, and was well known throughout the valley.  He had been troubled for some time with heart disease.  Although his condition had for some weeks excited the fears of his intimate friends, yet none seemed to apprehend his life was so nearly ended.  He received the best medical attention, but his malady had progressed too far to be reached by the most skillful treatment. Solomon Leon Haas was born in Germany in 1840, and came to America when a boy. About fifteen years ago he commenced business in connection with his brother, David L. Haas, in Napa and Vallejo, under the firm name of Haas Brothers, the deceased attending to the Vallejo store.  He closed out business in that town in June, 1876, and entered into copartnership with Asa R. Ford in the dry goods business in Napa. The widowed wife and orphaned daughter have the deepest sympathy of numerous friends in this their great bereavement.  Three brothers survive, David L. of this city, Martin L. of San Francisco, and Lewis of New York.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>My friends were very apprehensive, because Haas was considered a dangerous man. That evening Capt. John Howland called on me at the hotel and said he had brought a message from San Francisco for me to come there at once to see some Honolulu friends.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:suspected he was trying to spirit me out of town, but he denied this and urged me to go down the river to San Francisco on his river boat that night that I might be there in the morning to see my friends, as no train was leaving Napa until the next day.  Late that evening I boarded the little side-paddle-wheel steamer, "Emma," named for Captain Howland's daughter, and commanded by Captain Pinkham, at the town landing on the Napa River; and after a very beautiful moonlight trip arrived at San Francisco at 9 the next morning in time to see the Joneses, Damons and Fosters off for Honolulu on the "Zealandia," which was apparently the object of my visit. I also boarded the "City of Peking," 5,079 tons, bound for China.</p><P>This visit to San Francisco was prolonged for some days, for I was joined there the next morning by a party of young people from Napa who had come down by train.  Among them was Miss Hattie Howland whom I took that night to see "The Planter's Wife" at the Bush Street Theatre; another evening we went together to the Tivoli. The next day I called on Dr. Sawyer and on Miss Cushing, E. C. Stetson, Wilde &amp; Co., and on my cousin, Otis Briggs. I took this opportunity to see Chinatown for the first time under the guidance of Mr. Obadiah Rich, assistant manager of the Grand Hotel, who was a native of Cape Cod, and very friendly to us. I was not at all pleased with that quarter, and my journal says, "It is a rough place and the most filthy place imaginable," but in my later visits there I found more of interest.  During this six days' visit in San Francisco I found time to make many pleasant calls on acquaintances old and new.  I <illus entity="a030-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW OF THE BAY AND PART OF THE CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FERRY LANDING, SAN FRANCISCO, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PETRIFIED TREE, 70 FEET LONG, 11 FEET DIAMETER, PETRIFIED FOREST, SONOMA COUNTY, CAL., JULY 27, 1881 (See page 44)</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>met a Miss Aldrich, and took her to the Mechanics' Fair, and I called on Nellie Fuller and Hattie Foster, two of my Honolulu friends, who were stopping at the corner of Jefferson and 15th streets. All this is briefly recorded in my journal, and brings back many pleasant memories of old days and old friends.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 2. -- Today Slocum<ANCHOR ID="n1-19">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: and Dave Fagan met me in San Francisco and we all came to Martinez to continue our History writing in Contra Costa County. The trip was very enjoyable. After crossing the ferry to Oakland we went north by train along the bay to Stege, catching glimpses of San Francisco across <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:the water; then to San Pablo, nestling in beside the mountain foothills, surrounded by evergreens and well-cultivated lands; through the little village of Pinole, with its large warehouses and long pier, skirting the Bay of San Pablo, to Port Costa.  The views on all sides were glorious.  To the south and right of our train we beheld a beautiful narrow valley extending for miles to the rugged heights of the Contra Costa Mountains.  Across the narrow straits to the left was the harbor and city of Vallejo, with the Suchal Hills rising in the background to the eastward. Mare Island lay a mile to the west, across the inlet; and to the north, away beyond all, we saw the beautiful Napa Valley, at the head of which, forty miles away, rose Mt. St. Helena.  Still farther, and more to the right, are the mountains in which are situated the great Geyser Springs of California. As we proceeded more to the westward we saw the Sonoma Hills, Sonoma Valley, Petaluna, Santa Rosa and the Russian River Valleys which are said to be the richest and most productive in the world.  Beyond, bordering these, were the great redwood forests, and still farther rose the blue outlines of the Coast Range, of which Mt. Tamalpais is the highest peak.  Close to us, nestling in the center of all these magnificent surroundings, was San Pablo Bay, ten miles in diameter, sparkling like a jewel, dotted here and there with vessels and bordered by the deep color of the evergreens.  Contra Costa County has the only fresh-water anchorage in the State deep enough to accommodate large sea-going vessels; ships can load direct from the railroad pier.  We arrived in Martinez this evening, and I was greeted by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>SEPTEMBER 5. -- I have been very busy working on the History.  My only spare time is in the evening, but I enjoy our expeditions into the surrounding country.  This county is very fertile, in spite of its mountainous character, and the hills about here are especially adapted to the growth of table and wine grapes, which are very abundant about Martinez.   Mt. Diablo, in the very center of the county, rises from sea level to a height of 3,876 feet.  One of its peaks was chosen as the meridian from which the government survey of Central California was made.  The view from its summit is magnificent, with the great interior valley of California spread out like a map as far as the eye can reach.  The outlook seems illimitable, especially to the east.  One can see over thirty cities and towns, in which reside one-half the population of California.  The foothills of this portion of the Coast Range cover a large share of the county, interspersed with valleys which are very fertile.  The plains are dotted with great white oaks which are especially <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:thick near the borders of the streams. This is a wheat-raising country, but fruits and nuts of almost every sort flourish in abundance in the valleys and on the hillsides.  They say that the fruits from here bear shipment remarkably well.  The reason for this is that all fruits are grown without irrigation, and, owing to the uniformly low temperature, they ripen more slowly, develop later, and consequently keep better than fruits which are matured more rapidly.  Stock-raising is also profitable, I am told, and this county can show as fine stock as any in California. On almost every farm there are a few specimens of the best breeds of horses, cattle, sheep or hogs.</p><P>This evening, after our return from one of these expeditions, I escorted the Misses Gift to a very pretty party at Mrs. Abercrombie's, given especially for me.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 7. -- Dave Fagan<ANCHOR ID="n1-110">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: and I drove back to Napa from Martinez.  We crossed the Straits of Carquinez by ferry to Benecia, which was formerly the capital of the State.  It is a charming, quiet old rambling town, lying at the head of ship navigation. There is a long ferry slip running out from the city, built by the railroad company, and a similar one on the other side of Port Costa.  These slips are built on piles 18 inches in diameter, averaging 95 feet in length.  Between these cities runs the largest steam ferry boat in the world, the "Solano."  She has a greater breadth of beam than the "City of Tokio," and there are four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:tracks running from end to end with a capacity of 24 passenger cars or 48 freight cars. This ferry shortens the railway route from San Francisco to Sacramento by forty-nine miles.  Benecia has about 2,000 inhabitants, and the only law school in the State is located here.  Benecia also boasts some of the largest shipyards on the coast, at one of which my father's cousin, Charles Otis Briggs, used to be master ship builder.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-110">Dave Fagan, after a few years, established the house of D. D. Fagan &amp; Co., corner of Harris and 9th streets, Fairhaven, Washington, a men's furnishing goods store for the people of Fairhaven and Bellingham Bay. He afterward went into the Norris Safe Company and died in 1923 at St. Paul, Minnesota.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>We made a longer stop at Vallejo, which we found particularly interesting from an historical point of view, as well as for its natural beauty.  The town is situated on the southeastern point of the high, rolling, grass-covered hills bordering Vallejo Bay, which was granted to the old Spanish General Vallejo by the Mexican government, and which he surveyed over forty years ago.  These hills are now covered by the many homes of this beautiful little city, surrounded by gardens of the brightest flowers.  The hills, and the land for miles around, which forty years ago were among General Vallejo's possessions, were in his day covered with wild oats, but now they bear a goodly crop of wheat, finer than any other country can produce.  The increasing population has brought with it the improvement of the soil, and now nothing can be seen but the richest vegetation as far as the eye can reach. The view from Capitol Hill is serene. Toward the north lies Marin County, and the Coast Range Mountains define a clear, irregular line against the cloudless sky, and above them all rises grand old Mt. Tamalpais, like a father over his large family of children.  Below is the steamers' wharf, where passengers are landing to branch off to all points of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:compass. There is scarcely a ripple on the placid surface of the bay.  Small fishing craft are sailing here and there, while three large iron ships are riding peacefully at anchor, awaiting their turn to draw up to the wharf and load with wheat for some European port. On the other side of the bay lies Mare Island and the Navy Yard.  Along in the years of 1866-7, the probability of a railroad being built across the continent to California brought thousands to the spot who had until then never dreamed of ever coming to this far-away land.  Comparatively few persons in the East had, up to this time, heard of Vallejo except in connection with the naval station.  As the certainty of the construction of the road increased, Vallejo began to show signs of renewed life; stores, shops, hotels and dwellings began to spring up in every direction until it became the busy mart which it now is. Vallejo at the present time has five churches; the first series of meetings in the Advent Church were held by Alden Miles Grant of Boston, Massachusetts.  Some of its principal buildings are the Bank of Vallejo, the Vallejo Savings and Commercial Bank, the Pioneer Brewery, the Empire Soda Works, the Bernard House, a very imposing Structure, and Farragut Hall, built by the late Admiral D. G. Farragut, in the year 1869; it is lighted by a sun-burner gas jet in the center and lights around the hall; it has five dressing rooms, also a stage with a very good outfit and scenes for theatrical performances.  It is capable of seating over eight hundred, and almost all political, social and public meetings of any importance are held here.</p><P>Vallejo supports three papers and has also a gas company with a capital of $40,000.  The city stands next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:to San Francisco in the condition and number of its lodges, it having fourteen; the principal of these are the Naval Lodge, F. &amp; A. M., Naval Chapter, R. A. M., Odd Fellows, Knights of Pythias, the Farragut Post, G. A. R., and the Society of California Pioneers. Vallejo has two reservoirs, the larger one containing 9,000,000 gallons, and the smaller one 200,000 gallons, of water; also a fire department, National Guards, a high school and several public schools.  About 1850 there was erected on York Street the capitol.  It was a two-story building, the offices of which were built of hewn planks from the Hawaiian Islands.  The upper story was occupied by the Senate, the lower by the Assembly, and the basement by a tenpin alley and saloon, which in those days went by the name of the "Third House." The Legislature first met here in January, 1852.  The original building has since been destroyed by fire. Vallejo was then the capital of the Golden State.  I will give a few instances relative to the condition of things at that time that I learned from one of California's old pioneers.  Living was very expensive.  Cabbages sold at 30 cents per head, pork 30 cents per pound, eggs $5 per dozen, milk 50 cents a gallon, and chickens $10 a pair; but wild game was plenty and the streams were alive with fish.  "In the fall of 1853 there arrived in Vallejo the first representative of the law in the person of Colonel Leslie.  It is reported on one occasion, shortly after his arrival, that a Mr. Reed was out hunting and firing his gun; most probably by mistake, the ball crashed through Leslie's window and lodged in the wall of the room where he was lying in bed.  Boiling over with rage he arose, dressed in great haste and arrested the said Reed with his own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:hands and found himself prosecuting attorney, jury, witness and judge, and fined Reed $10 and costs; what became of the fine has never been found out," Vallejo was named for General Mariana Guadalupe Vallejo, who now resides in Sonoma. As I before mentioned, the Leescoe ranch, which is now covered by the city, was granted to him in the year 1837 by the Mexican government, and was occupied by the aboriginal Indians, wild cattle and game. In the following year General Vallejo, with his young bride, set out on their eager journey; she in her chair saddle and he on his noble steed.  As they rode over mile upon mile of their property, little was said, so eager were they to drink in the new scenes and possessions through which they were riding.  Both were full of hope, and as they proceeded, the General pointed out the more important features of his fair domain of nearly 100,000 acres. Finally, reaching a point about six miles north of the present city, he ordered a halt to rest his steeds and enjoy the surrounding scenery.  This hill he named the "Balcony." Here the General thought of De Foe's hero, Alex. Selkirk, who said:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I am monarch of all I survey,<LB>My right there is none to dispute;<LB>From the centre all round to the sea,<LB>I am lord of the fowl and the brute.</HI>
030.sgm:</p><P>Continuing their journey they soon arrived at the spot where the Capitol afterwards stood, and it was here he prophesied that ships of every flag would ride peacefully at anchor within the shadows of these hills that this State would be a halfway station of commerce <illus entity="a030-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., IN 1848</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD DEPOT, OAKLAND, CAL., 1881</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>between Asia and Europe; and that there would be communication between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts that would enable them to reap benefits from each other's products in a comparatively short space of time. "Remember," said he, "what I have today spoken shall come true.  I feel a spirit within me which tells me that this `hacienda' of mine shall be the nucleus of a vast State, of which I shall be Governor." For twelve years he ruled his little kingdom and was unmolested, the Indians being a peaceful, pastoral and happy race.</p><P>The following interesting description of the aboriginal Indians I take from the Vallejo directory of 1870:</p><P>"The toilet of the women was no more pretentious than that of the males, consisting only of a scanty apron of fancy skins or feathers, extending to the knees. Those of them who were unmarried wore also a bracelet around the ankle or arm near the shoulder.  This ornament was generally made of bone or fancy wood.  Polygamy was a recognized institution; the chiefs generally possessed eleven wives, sub-chiefs nine, and ordinary warriors two or more, according to their wealth or property;  but Indian-like they would fight among themselves, long before the Spaniards came, and bloody fights they often were. Their weapons were bows and arrows, clubs and spears.  They had a kind of helmet made of skins.  Their women followed the warriors and supplied them with provisions, and attended them when wounded, carrying their pappooses on their backs at the same time.  These Indians believed in a future existence, and an all powerful Great Spirit; they likewise believed in a cucusui, or mischief maker, and to him they attributed all their ill luck."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>Thus I have carried Vallejo from its earliest settlement until the present day, and certainly every day now looks brighter for its prosperity.</p><P>We have now completed our work in this part of the country, and on my return to Napa this evening I made some farewell calls and packed my things preparatory to leaving Napa.  I am sorry to leave Dr. Wetmore, but hope to see him again.  I have assisted him in his practice a good deal while I have been here, on days when I was not occupied in writing the history.  He has given me cases just outside the city or at distances in the city which required more time than he could well give, and when he made visits to San Francisco I took over all of his work.</p></DIV>
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030.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD><p>SAN FRANCISCO IN 1881 FUNERAL PROCESSION FOR PRESIDENT GARFIELD MARE ISLAND GOVERNOR ROMUALDO PACHECO CHINATOWN IN 1881 SAN FRANCISCO TO LOS ANGELES</P>
030.sgm:<P>SEPTEMBER 8. -- Today we came back from Napa to San Francisco by way of Vallejo; thence by boat across the mouth of the Sacramento, where we took the train to Oakland and then by ferry to San Francisco. The Russian man-of-war "Africa" was anchored in the bay.  We dined with the Samuel Henry Kents, where we met Captain Fletcher of the Navy Yard; and we spent the night at the Grand Hotel, where we met Mrs. Laura Dixon and little "Mudgie," Mr. and Mrs. Milne ("Sandy"), and Miss Armstrong, all of Honolulu. SEPTEMBER 9. -- This morning we took rooms at the Truesdell House, corner of Market and Turk streets. This afternoon we all went through Chinatown.  Soldiers and marines in gay uniforms from the Russian ship in San Francisco Bay were marching through the streets.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 12. -- Yesterday we attended service at St. Ignatius' Church (Catholic), one of the most beautiful churches here.  I spent the night at the Russ <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:House, as guest of Will Slocum, so that we could start again early this morning, With Dave Fagan and Mr. Bowen, for Martinez on the Bay of Carquinez, Where I have been asked to take the local doctor's practice for ten days during his vacation, while I continue to help Slocum and his party in their work on the History of Contra Costa County.  Mother and Velma stayed behind at the Truesdell House.</p><P>During this second stay in Martinez I enjoyed much social life.  The Gift girls, the Misses Winnie and Maggie Bolton, the Bents, Mrs. Russell, and especially the Blums entertained us frequently. Rose Blum is a delightful young girl, with very pleasing manners. At the Bennett's stables we watched the inspection of the horses which had been bought by the United States government to be used in the war with the Apache Indians in Arizona. It was grape season, and we had many sent us; the most delicious were the white malagar or raisin grapes. A gift of grapes usually consisted of about half a bushel.</p><P>I find in my journal, under date of September 19: "There is a report in town tonight that President Garfield has died, and the bells are tolling -- God grant that it is not true." It was true, and when I returned to San Francisco on the 21st I found the whole city in mourning, virtually every building draped in black and white.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 24. - Today is Jewish New Years, and we all went to the Jewish Synagogue where we heard a sermon by Rabbi Kohn.  I continue to visit Dr. Sawyer, the celebrated lung specialist.  Velma, who came out here with malaria, has been under Dr. Hubbard,<ANCHOR ID="n2-11">*</ANCHOR>
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030.sgm:<P>SEPTEMBER 25. -- Today I saw Captain Marston set sail on the bark "Lady Lamson," the vessel on which I was so pleasantly entertained during my stay in Honolulu.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 26. -- Yesterday we all went to see my very kind and faithful friend, Mrs. Samuel M. Damon, With her children, Eddie and May, and Miss Lizzie Campbell, off for Honolulu on the "City of Sydney," the same steamer in which I came here with Mrs. Damon and her family from Honolulu.  I shall miss her very much, for she has been more or less with us during these months, and when not with us she was usually with Mr. and Mrs. Mills at the Mills Seminary in Berkeley where mother and I visited them last May.</p><P>President Garfield's funeral took place in Cleveland today. There have been memorial services and solemn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:processions of mourning in every city in the country. Here there were 22,000 men in line.  The procession took nearly two hours to pass; the buildings along the line of march, especially in Montgomery, Market and Kearney streets, were elaborately draped in black and white bunting;  the streets were black with quiet, thoughtful people -- thousands of spectators to this demonstration of mourning and affection for our late President. Market Street was almost impassable; every inch of vantage ground was taken. Not only were the sidewalks, roofs and windows crammed with people, but grave and decorous citizens were grasping the tall chimneys and in perilous positions were holding on to cornices, while others younger and still more adventurous clung to the near tops of telegraph poles, sitting on the crosstrees.</p><P>The booming of the minute guns over the bay and the solemn tones of the church bells from the hills broke the silence as the hour set for the President's funeral approached; the procession came along with muffled drums and draped flags -- people of every nationality and all sorts of organizations.  First came the mounted police and the United States Artillery Band, the Grand Marshal, whose only badge of office was a baton draped in cr&ecirc;^;pe, then the 200 aides with sashes of black and white with silver trimming. After them came the local soldiery, marching in ranks of sixteen, trailing their arms, their colors furled and draped, and their officers with cr&ecirc;pe on their arms. (It is said that nearly 90 per cent of the membership of the different organizations were in line.)  The independent military companies turned out in a battalion -- the German Fusileers, the Independent Rifles and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:the California Jaegers, the Swiss Sharpshooters, the Austrian Military Company. Many of their uniforms, especially those of the Independent Rifles (gray with black hats and black plumes), were in marked contrast to those of the regular militia companies. Then came the Ancient Order of Free and Accepted Masons, preceded by their marshal and a standard bearer in the splendid trappings of a Knight Templar, representing all the Masonic orders, twelve abreast -- a magnificent display of uniformed men in solemn procession, over 2,000 in all.  The great catafalque, somber and splendid, followed, drawn by eight perfect horses, each as black as night.  The gentlemen's stables for miles about San Francisco had been thrown open for the selection of the fittest horses for this purpose, and probably no other city in the country could have provided such faultless spans as were attached to the vast moving cenotaph. Each horse was completely shrouded in a cover of black cloth, so that only the blinders over the eyes and the feet under the deep fringe of the ebon covers were visible.  Abreast of each horse walked a tall black groom, dressed in a black frock coat and trousers, with white gloves and vest and a black silk hat, with a mourning band of black cr&ecirc;pe fastened, at the side farthest from the horse, with a white bow, the ends of the black cr&ecirc;pe falling over the groom's shoulder and down his side to below the elbow.  The solemn driver of the catafalque was also a black man.  It is said that the casket borne on the catafalque was the counterpart of that actually used at the President's funeral in Cleveland today; on the top lay a General's hat, belt and sword.  On the lower platform of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:catafalque was the escutcheon of the United States on one side, and that of the State of California on the other, between great wreaths of rare white flowers. Behind the catafalque another colored groom led a riderless black horse, deeply hooded, and covered with white fringed black broadcloth, saddled and bridled; in the stirrups were military boots, empty and reversed, telling with the grim significance of military fashion that the great Commander-in-Chief lay dead.  The Guard of Honor flanking the catafalque consisted of officers of the army on one side and of the navy on the other, all in full dress uniform and wearing cr&ecirc;pe on the left arm.  Following the catafalque were pallbearers, all eminent men, each wearing a full long sash of black and white cr&ecirc;pe, with flowing ends drooping nearly to the ground. These were all eminent citizens of California. Then came a magnificent floral tribute from the French citizens of San Francisco -- a giant wreath of roses, with a French flag wrought in flowers in the center, borne by eight tall men.  There followed a procession of foreign consuls, veterans of the Civil War, more officers of the army and navy; then came city and county officials, firemen, more distinguished citizens, delegations from the foreign war vessels in the harbor, the clergy, judges and justices -- more long lines of mourning citizens from every organization imaginable.  A funeral ceremony was held afterwards before a great gathering at the Mechanics' Pavilion, and there were elaborate services in all the churches either yesterday or Sunday, in memory of our late President.</p><P>The war vessels in the harbor include the Russian <illus entity="a030-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE ARRAIGNMENT OF GUITEAU FOR THE MURDER OF PRESIDENT GARFIELD, OCTOBER 14, 1881</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:Admiral's flagship "Africa," the "Plastum" and the "Vestnik," the Italian frigate "Garibaldi," and the Mexican gunboat "Democrata," as well as the U. S. S. "Lackawanna."  The yardarms of the warships were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:crossed to the port side of the vessels, while the ensigns hung at half mast from the gaffs.  At sunrise the Russian Admiral's ship began the first of the fifteen minute guns which were taken up at regular intervals by the other vessels, and continued their solemn booming all day.</p><P>The mourning decorations are, many of them, unique, but not all in the best of taste; a residence on northern Powell Street has perhaps the most unpleasant, for stretched across the front is a remarkable specimen of the crayon art in black and white, representing the late President lying on his couch of pain, a woman with disheveled hair leaning over the head of the bed, and two angels floating above -- all life size.</p><P>OCTOBER 1. -- After a lovely visit with us, mother left for the East this afternoon at 3.30, and Velma and I went as far as Oakland to see her safely started on the train.  We felt that father needed her, and, as we were so much better, we could take care of each other, but we shall miss her terribly.  She has been a wonderful traveling companion, always ready to plan interesting excursions for us wherever we stopped, ever cheerful, never complaining of discomforts, but always alert and enterprising and helpful.</p><P>OCTOBER 5. -- Our cousin, Otis Briggs, now lives in Vallejo, and has a position in the United States Navy Yard at Mare Island. He is the last ship builder in the Briggs family, and came to California in the early days.  His visits to us have been among the brightest spots of our stay in San Francisco, for his jovial disposition and quick wit make him a delightful companion, and his anecdotes are full of native humor. Today we went to see him at Mare Island and were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:vigor by Captain Farragut, and on October 3, 1854, the national flag was first hoisted on this newly acquired property. In the archives of the commandant's office is preserved a log, in the handwriting of the officer who afterward achieved such glory for his name and country at New Orleans, when he caused himself to be tied to the shrouds of his flagship, the "Hartford," and ran the gauntlet of the enemy's guns.  The ink on the pages of Farragut's diary may be faded by time, but his memory will remain untinged as long as the United States has a history, and be cherished in the hearts of his countrymen in such a manner as is only done for our great men.  I quote from his diary:</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">September 16, 1854</HI>
030.sgm:. -- Commander Farragut took charge of the island and forthwith ordered all of the squatters off.  Vara, Gilbert and Antonio Pintee were their names.  Weather clear.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">September 17, 1854</HI>
030.sgm:. -- Looked around the island for the localities specified in the plan of the Navy Yard; also engaged in examining the amount of property on the island that could be advantageously used by the government.  Weather clear.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">September 18,1854</HI>
030.sgm:. -- The sloop-of-war `Warren' came up to be moored as a storeship for the accommodation of the Yard. Also employed Vara, a carpenter, to put up a flagstaff.  Paid $500 for towing up the ship, and $192 for pilotage.  Weather clear."</p><P>The sectional dock on Mare Island is the first erection of the kind ever attempted on the Pacific coast and was commenced in the year 1852.  It is composed of eleven sections, each 130 feet long and 33 feet wide, the sections standing 6 inches apart.  The extreme length of the construction is 325 feet, and is capable of accommodating a ship of 3,000 tons burthen.  The dock basin in connection therewith is 400 feet long by 150 feet wide, with a proper depth and ways, 350 feet in length.  To get a vessel on to the dock the dock is first sunk to a sufficient depth, when the vessel is floated on to it and it is closed.  The water is then pumped out by steam engines, built expressly for the purpose, when the entire structure rises.  It is then floated into the basin, being hauled by hydraulic power.  The basin is then emptied by means of pumping, and the dock sinks to the floor, where it becomes a fixture. . . .  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:was made in 1855 as flagship of Commodore Marine.  The "Independence" made her first cruise as flagship under Commodore Bainbridge in the Mediterranean Sea. . . . She was raised in 1836 and made a 54-gun frigate; and besides being the first double-decked ship that went to sea under the American flag, she was the first 74 that was ever converted in the United States Navy. She was always called a good sailor, and said to behave well at sea.  During her cruise in the Pacific from 1846 to 1849, she averaged 140 knots per 24 hours for 400 consecutive days.  Her record also says, "Is sure in stays, stiff under canvas, inclined to gripe and hard on her cables."</p><P>(1849-52.)  "It has been recommended to dispense with the poop and topgallant forecastle and ten tons of ballast, to shorten the lower masts and to do away with the tiller on the gun deck, as it interferes with the working of the stern guns."  The good old vessel is now at Mare Island Navy Yard as a receiving ship, and she is as sound in every respect as she was fifty years ago.  Although the new order of ships-of-war has come into use, there are none that are built more substantially than the "Independence."  The seclusion of Vallejo Harbor, with its beautiful surroundings, is a fit retirement for this naval Argonaut of California.</p><P>OCTOBER 7 (continues my journal). -- Palmer, Bowen, Slocum and I had a conference about publishing the History of Napa County. This afternoon Velma and I went through the United States Mint, and in the evening we all went to hear the opera "La Grande Duchesse."</p><P>OCTOBER 10. -- We have visitors almost every afternoon when we are at home.  Today Mr. and Mrs. Robert Howland called.  He is a mining engineer of considerable reputation.  Our cousin, Otis Briggs, and daughter Kate also come frequently;<ANCHOR ID="n2-12">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: we do enjoy his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:visits so much.  Other callers were Mrs. (Captain) Howland, Densie Percival, Mr. and Mrs. Ford, Joe Carroll and George W. Spencer.  Mr. Spencer took us for a drive in one of McKay's famous turnouts, a barouche and pair, to the United States Reservation and to Fort Point, where We had a beautiful view of the Golden Gate, the park, the cliff, and Seal Rock.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-12">Charles Otis Briggs died many years ago, and his daughter Kate married George W. Spencer of San Francisco. They had one son, George O. Spencer, now (1931) residing in Augusta, Maine. He is married and has one child.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>OCTOBER 21. -- Today I called at the Palace Hotel to see Judge Widemann, whose plantation I visited in Honolulu, and his daughter Minna.  While I was there King Kalakaua and Major McFarland called to see Judge Widemann.</p><P>They are sailing for Honolulu tomorrow on the steamer "Zealandia," Captain Cargill and Purser Dean.</p><P>My journal continues to report everyday happenings for the next month, most of them interesting to me only as reminders of the good friends whom we found everywhere and of the simple, busy, care-free life, which did so much to build up our health. Dr. Sawyer examined me again on the 25th of October and reported me greatly improved.  The following Sunday I took my sister to Grace Church in the morning and went with Miss Hattie Howland to Trinity Church in the evening.  On November 3 we went to a Japanese Tea Party at Platt's Hall, and saw very pretty tableaux, given for the benefit of the Homeopathic Hospital. My journal records almost daily calls to and from our many friends in the neighborhood.  The following names appear with more or less frequency: Mr. and Mrs. Boyd Allen, Mrs. King, Miss Emma Whitney, the Misses Charlotte Carter, Hattie Foster and Nellie Fuller of Honolulu, Wolcott Morse (who lived at Dr. <illus entity="a030-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DANIEL CALLAGHAN, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</ILLUS> <illus entity="a030-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PALACE HOTEL, SAN FRANCISCO, 1881</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:Lowe's on Scott Street), Miss Helen Aldrich, Mrs. Fishborne, Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Henry Kent, Mr. and Mrs. Robinson, Mr. and Mrs. Stoneham, L. L. Bowen, Mr. and Mrs. Van Heusen, Judge Shepard and Miss Shepard, Miss Howard (who took us to the Commencement exercises at the Pacific Medical School), Mrs. (Captain) Morse, Captain and Mrs. Freeman, and Hattie Howland, who was staying at the Noyes's. We called on the Misses Callaghan and saw more or less of them. Their father, Daniel D. Callaghan, was President of the First National Bank and a successful business man, and was well known in San Francisco at that time; he was a strong and interesting character, very public-spirited and interested in local enterprises, especially the development of street car lines. We enjoyed hearing him tell of his experiences in California in the early days, which were still fresh in his memory. He had come to California in 1852, first, in general merchandise in Shasta, later at Red Bluff, and in 1864 to San Francisco.  His brother Jeremiah, a real pioneer, preceded him in '49.  Daniel married in Fall River and left nine children, three boys and six girls.</p><P>On November 12 I went with Bowen and Slocum back to Napa City to check up some matters for the History, arriving just in time to see a fire,  the burning of David Haas's store.  We spent several days there working on the History and seeing some of our old friends -- the Howlands, the Noyeses, May Monelle Stansbury, Clara Volk and Rebecca Frankenburg; and we went to St. Helena, where we stayed at the Windsor Hotel. They were kind friends and pleasant days. I wish I had recorded more details, but even the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:names are good to remember.  The last week in November found us back in San Francisco, and my journal continues its brief items.</p><P>NOVEMBER 23. -- I visited some of the whale ships on the water front today, including the "John Howland," the "Sea Breeze," the "Progress" and the "Northern Light," the last just arrived from Point Barrow; from her captain I got two pairs of walrus tusks, and from the first mate, Mr. Gifford, a pair of sperm whale's teeth.</p><P>NOVEMBER 26. -- Once more we came to Martinez with Dave Fagan to check up the Contra Costa County History.  Velma and I are rooming at Mrs. Brown's, and have our meals at Mrs. Corbett's.  During this visit we were entertained by the kind friends of our former visits, Miss Rose Blum, Miss Josie Williams, Mrs. Bent, Miss Mollie Bent and Rachel and Katie Gift.  "We went to the M. E. Church," says my journal, "to hear Dr. Abercrombie preach."  I frequently went shooting with my new gun, and took Velma along, or Mrs. Bent, who had a telescope rifle that she used most effectively. Molly Bent and I had some delightful rides together.</p><P>On the 29th Dave Fagan and I drove to Lafayette, a "town" of thirteen buildings, nine of which were dwellings, and to Walnut Creek and Pacheco's.</p><P>DECEMBER 3. -- Velma and I went to Pacheco's Ranch, where we called on the last Spanish Governor, Romualdo Pacheco.<ANCHOR ID="n2-13">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: He weighs 452 pounds and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:These we were told to cover with cloves, sticking in the stems close together, which he said would preserve them for many years. We did so to one of them, which we kept for over twenty years thus preserved.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-13">Ex-Governor Romualdo Pacheco died on January 24, 1899, of Brights' Disease.  He was one of the best known and most brilliant Spanish-Americans in California. His wife was well known as the author of several successful dramas. Governor Pacheco served in the State Legislature and Congress, and as Lieutenant-Governor and Governor of the State of California.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>DECEMBER 6. -- Velma and I returned to San Francisco today, and came to the Kents', 711 Leavenworth Street, where we are to make our home for the present.  Mr. Samuel Henry Kent is my mother's cousin, and he and his wife are very kind to us.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>Again we spent some pleasant weeks in San Francisco with few happenings of importance.  Among the names in my journal at that time I find those of Miss Maggie Callaghan, Mr. Lowe and his family, Miss Fordham, Mr. and Miss Nichols, Miss Emma Lombard (at 621 Pine Street), Miss Helen Aldrich, Judge Wallace and Miss Addie Wallace (on Van Ness Avenue), Miss Shurtleff, Wolcott Morse, with whom we went to call on Mrs. King and Mrs. Abbott in Oakland, and Mr. and Mrs. Obadiah Rich. Obe Rich came from Cape Cod. He was manager of the Grand Hotel at this time.</p><P>We went to the theatre frequently; saw "The Little Chanticleer" with Louise Lester, Carrie Crouse and Harry Gates, at the Winter Garden; "Lurline, or the Nymph of Lurleiburg" and "Olivette," at the Tivoli, and the "Black Crook" at the Winter Garden. I have the programs still.  On December 22 we went to the market and saw a dressed hog, "Captain Jack," which weighed 1,018 pounds, so my journal records. On December 23 Velma and I went to see my Aunt Sophia Stetson, who for some time was living at the Palace Hotel.  His Excellency the Honorable H. A. P. Carter, Minister of the Interior of the Hawaiian Islands, my very good friend, was staying in town with his family, and I lunched with them on December 30 and afterward saw them off on the train for Boston on their way to Europe. He goes to Portugal to make a treaty for his government.</p><P>Letters from home were encouraging, so far as my own parents were concerned, but they told me of the death of my Aunt Elizabeth in November, followed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:December 6, by that of her husband, my uncle, Harrison Otis Briggs.</p><ANCHOR ID="n2-14">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-14">BRIGGS, November 26, 1851 -- H. Elizabeth, wife of Harrison O. Briggs and daughter of the late Alpheus Stetson, 53 yrs.<HSEP>BRIGGS -- In this city, December 6, 1881, Harrison O. Briggs, 57 yrs. 10 mos. 7 dys. Harrison O. Briggs, President of the National Bank of the Republic, died yesterday morning at his residence, No. 124 Marlborough Street, after a brief illness. In November last his wife died, and the day of her death Mr. Briggs was attacked with erysipelas, which has since developed into blood poisoning, and terminated fatally. Mr. Briggs was a native of Scituate, and for many years was a member of the shipbuilding firm of E. and H. O. Briggs at South Boston.  He relinquished the business early during the war, and gave his attention to the care of his property, becoming an active director in the National Bank of the Republic. In 1876, after the death of David Snow, he became the president of the bank, a position which he has since held. In 1860 he was induced to accept a position as alderman, but he declined further political service.  Mr. Briggs was in his fifty-seventh year. He has long been connected with the old South Church.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>NEW YEAR'S DAY, 1882. -- As it is the custom in California to make New Year's a holiday, and to make and receive calls, most of the day was spent with our friends.  Altogether, I made twenty-three calls upon people whom I have already mentioned in this journal, and also upon Mr. and Mrs. Wolcott Morse, Adolph Kaals, Miss Ella Evans of San Jose, Mr. Cameron and his daughter Daisy.  Every one had open house in the good old style. In the late afternoon and evening Velma and I remained at the Kent's, where we are still staying, and received callers. Many of them brought presents, -- for that is another custom of New Year's Day here, -- the most valuable of which was a pair of earrings which Velma received from James P. Cross.  Later more friends came and we all played cards, euchre and Pedro Sancho being the favorite games.</p><P>JANUARY 2. -- It is usual in California to <HI REND="italics">return</HI>
030.sgm: New Year's calls on this day, so Velma and I have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:busy. We came back this evening after making thirteen return calls.  Refreshments were served everywhere, as on New Year's Day, especially wine, punches and cakes.</p><P>JANUARY 4. -- The New Year gaieties continue in spite of rain. Tonight Velma and I went to a "Calico Ball" at the Grand Hotel -- very amusing.  Many of our friends were there, and among others we met Captain Dearborn and Mr. Birch, Mrs (Captain) Morse, Miss Butler and Mr. Buckley.  Velma said I looked fine with a calico collar and necktie.  She wouldn't wear calico, but went in her velvet and brocade dress.</p><P>JANUARY 7. -- Today Slocum called and we went together down to the wharves and on board the "City of Tokio," "City of Sydney," and "W. H. Meyer." The first of these ships runs between here and China, the second between here and Australia, and the third between here and Honolulu.  In the afternoon I went to Oakland and called on Hattie Foster, Nellie Fuller, Lottie Carter and Emma Whitney, all from Honolulu, and in the evening I went to see Joel Low. The weather is delightful.</p><P>JANUARY 8. -- A beautiful day like yesterday.  I called on the Callaghans, where I met Miss Butler and Mr. Buckley.</p><P>JANUARY 9. -- Dr. Hook of Walnut Creek sent word to me today, asking me to take his practice for two or three months, but as I have not been feeling quite well of late, Dr. Sawyer forbid my accepting this call.  At Dr. Sawyer's house today I met Dr. William T. Whitwell, who has a sanitarium here for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:mental cases. I am much interested in his work. This afternoon we called on Emma Lombard and the Slocums.</p><P>JANUARY 10. -- Went through Chinatown, which is situated on Sacramento Street, above Kearney, Dupont Street between Sacramento and Washington Streets, and Jackson Street between Dupont and Kearney.  This district is occupied exclusively by Celestial shopkeepers -- the "Heathen Chinees." There are two Chinese theatres, one on each side of Jackson Street.  The plays sometimes require several weeks for presentation, and frequently include the events of a dynasty of several hundred years.  The stage is devoid of scenery, except for a few scrolls that are hung against the wall; the orchestra is at the back of the stage and the musicians keep up a constant din of gongs during most of the performance. The actors are all men, who enter and leave through doorways on either side of the orchestra, which are hung with red curtains, and the costumes of the performers are kept in enormous trunks on either side of the stage. Beside these trunks stand small tables and a few chairs -- these are the only stage properties and are shifted by a Chinaman in full sight of the audience.  During the performance, if an actor dies or is killed, he lies still for a few moments so that the spectators may realize he is dead -- then he springs up and runs off the stage. By long practice the male actors have acquired the power of counterfeiting women's voices. But more interesting to me than the play itself are the remarkable acrobatic feats which seem to be an important part of the performance.</p><P>The chief Chinese temple, or Joss House, is on Clay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:Street, opposite Portsmouth Square. There is a Chinaman always on duty to see that no one injures the furniture or ornaments of the Temple, but he remains invisible until it is necessary for him to come forward and politely usher an offender down the two long flights of stairs to the street.  The Temple contains some magnificent specimens of Chinese carved work, overlaid with gold, and banners of fine silk embroidered with figures of dragons and gods.  Beautiful bronze vessels stand on tables in front of the main altar, from which arises a fragrant cloud of incense to propitiate the god who sits in state on the richly carved altar.</p><P>The streets in this quarter are all very interesting, and for a few blocks one is in a veritable Chinese city. There is a great deal of unjustifiable prejudice against the better class of Chinese in this country, but this is largely fostered by ignorant working men who fear their competition.  The Chinese are good workmen, and, at least in California, work for the same price as others. Those who employ them tell me that they are faithful, courteous, honest, neat and capable as servants, and never forget to show gratitude for kindness received. One never sees a drunken or disorderly Chinaman; they never become criminals or even beggars, but go quietly about their business, leaving their neighbors strictly alone.  They have certain vices among them, but are surely less vicious and less dangerous to the public morals than many other classes of immigrants who are freely admitted to this country.</p><P>But in Chinatown vice is made very profitable, and the curiosity of visitors is stimulated by anti-Chinese agitation and newspaper articles describing the traffic in women and the opium dens, and most of them want <illus entity="a030-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CALIFORNIA STREET, SAN FRANCISCO, LOOKING UP FROM SANSOME STREET, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm: <illus entity="a030-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COURT, PALACE HOTEL, SAN FRANCISCO, 1881</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:to see these places in action. Our guide and interpreter, R. Williams, "late manager of the Grand Chinese Theater," according to his card, advertises that he is "the only guide that can give you a satisfactory investigation of Chinatown," but there are, of course, many others.  That prostitution flourishes among the Chinese is not strange, as it is contrary to their ethics to bring their wives away from their native land. These virtuous women are left at home to look after the old people and the children; but it is doubtful if the Chinese are more vicious than other men of the same social class away from their homes.  Certainly the American and European visitors to their quarters do what they can to make these vices profitable for the Chinaman.</p><P>Public attention during the past week has been directed to the case of the Chinese women who arrived in this city from Hongkong on the British ship "Anjer Head," and whom the Federal officials prohibited from landing on account of their questionable character. This prohibition caused considerable wailing and venting of imprecations upon the Fanqui mandarins from the old hags whose business it is to minister to the depraved pleasures of the resident Chinese. Though the business of importing women from Canton and Hongkong for immoral purposes has been carried on for nearly a score of years, it is only recently that any official action has been taken to prevent it, and the task so far has proved by no means easy or successful.</p><P><HI REND="italics">The Dens of Chinatown</HI>
030.sgm:. -- The dens in which these unfortunates are kept in almost a state of captivity are situated in two or three of the connecting alleyways <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:in the blocks bounded by Washington and Jackson streets.  During the day the only signs of life are a few children playing in the filthy gutters, or an old woman or two discussing events with some of their countrymen who are connected with the houses as employees or proprietors. At night the scene changes; coal oil lamps shed an ill-smelling, sickly light through the tiny windows and doors, which are invariably protected by wire screens or iron bars.  Each door is furnished with a sliding wicket a foot square, from which coign of vantage protrudes the face of a gaudily painted damsel, whose rouged cheeks, blackened eyebrows, stiffly greased hair and vermilion lips present a curious contrast to the dingy boarding of the house and the hovel-like aspect of her surroundings. When the coast is clear of Caucasians the "cruiser on watch," as the women whose turn at the wicket it is are termed, displays her charms with shocking immodesty for the benefit of passing Mongolian Don Juans.</p><P><HI REND="italics">White Patronage</HI>
030.sgm:. -- Let, however, the festive hoodlum or chance visitor to Chinatown come in sight and the wickets are closed and the Caucasian pedestrian is hailed from behind the wire screens with the vilest epithets known to the Chinese or English tongues. The intruder out of sight, the virago disappears and the seductive and bewitching damsel reappears. The ordinance making it a penal offence to visit any of the Chinese houses of ill fame has the effect of diminishing the number of white visitors, hence the lack of desire on the part of women to conciliate them. Two or three houses, however, exist that are almost exclusively patronized by a low order of Caucasians.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The California Supply</HI>
030.sgm:. -- The principal source from which the demand for Chinese women in California is supplied is Hongkong, where the women are under police surveillance.  There they all live in a district known as "Tai Ping Shan" (Exceeding Peace Hill). Many of them have graduated from the singing classes, their early life having been spent on the flower boats, while others are the cast-off mistresses of Europeans. These women are bought in some cases from themselves, the purchaser paying a stipulated amount for their possession for a period of years, or life, as the case may be. In case of their accumulating sufficient money under kind owners to purchase themselves, they at once get married and almost invariably open a brothel on their own account, and in their turn become the owners of other women.  When girls are bought in China they are escorted to this country by one or two of a number of men or women who make this brief guardianship a regular business.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Bargain and Sale</HI>
030.sgm:. -- The slave owner seldom makes his own purchases in this country, but secures the services of a "chung jen," or go-between, who conducts all the negotiations, pays over the purchase money, and delivers the human merchandise.  Should the "chung jen" find a satisfactory "article," he reports the price, which is seldom below $1,000, to the would-be purchaser, who pays the commission instead of the seller, as is generally the case in American commission transactions. These transactions are carried on in utter defiance of the law, not alone in China, but in this State, little secret being made of the matter.  The earnings of the women are sometimes divided, a percentage going <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:Worldly anxieties and cares are effectually banished.  Sleep of a peculiar type soon follows, simulating <HI REND="italics">coma vigil</HI>
030.sgm:; but although sleeping, the smoker is conscious of pleasing sensations that exalt the finer sensibilities.</p><P>In those days Chinese immigration into this country was not restricted, and feeling among Californians ran very high. In the "San Francisco Examiner" of March 5, 1882, there was a full page of description, in the most grandiloquent terms of patriotism, of a great mass meeting held in Platt's Hall, San Francisco, in favor of the bill then before Congress, for the exclusion of the Chinese.  The Governor announced the day as a legal holiday.  Some of the captions of this journalistic account are as follows:  "A Unit.  The People Speak as with One Voice.  California Calls to her Sister States.  She Demands Relief from the Chinese Curse.  A Grand and Dignified Appeal.  San Francisco's Monster Meetings Yesterday.  Platt's Hall Jammed by an Enthusiastic Audience.  Twenty-five Thousand People Gathered in the Street.  An Army of Able Advocates in Argumentative Array Against the Further Allowance of Asiatic Invasion." The opening paragraphs of this description are examples of a type of self-confident journalism which is now a thing of the past.  I cannot resist the temptation to quote a little of it:</p><P>Yesterday must forever stand as marking in the history of California the occurrence of an event that cannot find a parallel in the history of the world.  Nothing in Grecian or Roman history, or the history of any other nation, furnishes an incident at all comparable to the magnificently spontaneous outburst of feeling and exhibition of moral grandeur, of the principles of law <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>One cannot help wondering whether the "exhibition of moral grandeur and of the principles of law and order" would have continued to pass smoothly "with not one hitch or casualty" had the Heathen Chinee had an opportunity to speak for himself, or had any one dared say a word in his favor.  The strength of the speakers' pleas lay in the strong feeling against Chinese cheap labor, but most of them did not hesitate to make use of the racial hatred already established to strengthen their plea that "free American labor may not be overwhelmed and degraded by contract slavery and coolie competition." Philip A. Roach, vice-chairman of the meeting, reviewed the history of the Chinese situation in California, saying that when the subject had been referred to the people there had been a vote of 154,000 for the bill and only 883 against it. He added:</p><P>Today all along the coast, including Oregon and Nevada, an earnest protest will go up against further Mongolian immigration and further influx of cheap labor.  We have agreed to place Chinese steamships on a par with other foreign craft, and as they can build ships cheaper than we can, they will in time not only control the Pacific coast, but also the Pacific Ocean, unless some speedy restriction can be placed upon their operations.  We have agreed to compensate the Chinese government for putting a restriction upon Chinese immigration by restricting and failing to encourage their dreaded opium traffic.  Neither East, West, North nor South wants them, and especially do we find that in all the votes upon this question not a single southern Senator ever voted to encourage or allow this traffic. . . .</p><P>This fear, not only of Chinese labor, but of the Chinese in world competition, seems to have been even greater than the same fear shown by Californians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:in more recent years of the Japanese. Mr. William T. Coleman paid rather a high tribute to the Chinese, physically, mentally and politically (!), but added that, socially and privately, they were so differently constituted that it would be impossible for them ever to become any part of us or to affiliate with our interests. He said:</p><P>"They take on our citizenship and use it for a time for their own benefit, and throw it off when they are done with it, as they would an old garment." He said that he feared the Chinese, not with a personal fear, but he feared them for the body politic. The greatest danger that was to come had not yet been commented upon.  "China is but twenty days from here.  They are now in possession of a navy almost equal to that of the United States, and they are building more, and the death of a single important Chinaman in this country or an important American in China might thrust us into a state of war, and in that event they could land upon our shores 2,000,000 of their hordes, and that could be reinforced by 10,000,000 more, and that would not make even a slight vacuum in their population. Why, they have 400,000,000 to draw upon, and our whole country has only 50,000,000! Another point -- if such an event should ever occur, they would find allies in every town and hamlet in our country, and especially in our State -- aye, in almost every family, as they are becoming familiar with our secret life (!), and in the event of such a spectacle as suggested would all flock as one man to form a coalition and join in the work of destruction."</p><P>This speaker did not explain why such a warlike <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:nation should submit to being deprived by our country of equal rights with other nations.</p><P>I am not attempting to give a history of the race question in California, but merely trying to show the state of mind of the very excellent people among whom I lived at that time.  In course of time the Chinese were excluded from California, and the country relieved from the competition of these expert, patient laborers. Whether they really undersold other laborers is in my mind an open question.  I have by me a very interesting plea for the Chinamen written a few years later by Mrs. L. L. Baldwin, who for eighteen years had been a missionary in China, entitled "Must the Chinese Go?" which throws quite a different light on the situation.  One after another she takes up, analyzes and denies the charges made against Chinamen in America. In regard to the charge, "the Chinese cheapen labor and throw others out of employ," she writes:</p><P>The cry not so many years ago in California was against the exorbitant prices demanded for labor.  A few had command of the labor market, making many lucrative industries impossible by their high demands.  Today it is against the cheap labor of the Chinese, but this argument is reserved for strangers who are ignorant of western prices.</p><P>There is absolutely no such thing as cheap labor on the Pacific coast.  An untrained Chinaman commands from $3 to $5 a week, and board, in kitchen employ; Chinese cooks, from $20 to $40 a month and board.  These prices are somewhat higher than the cost of domestic labor in the East.  Domestic servants are paid from $8 to $16 a month with board.  Is this cheap labor?.</p><P>The Chinaman takes the place of no one who will do the work as well as he; but when unfaithfulness, dishonesty and utter disregard of the employer's interests are superseded by faithfulness, honesty and a recognition of duty to give a fair return in work for wages received, who will complain of such a change?</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>Mrs. Baldwin hits at the crux of the situation in another part of her argument.  She says:</p><P>The Chinese laborer belongs to none of the labor unions of this land; worse still, he is of the exceptional class that does not patronize the rum shops.  Think of the host of enemies they at once array against them in this last respect, and of the mighty money power in the hands of these foes.  Again, they have no vote, and so are worse than worthless to the average politician. Lastly, and fatally for the native American, the immigrant from across the Atlantic desires and intends to command the labor market here; not only to rule in our homes, but in every other department of industry into which he enters; to fix prices of labor, to strike for more, to do or not to do, without fear of competition. An efficient competitor is his only obstacle, and that he has in the patient, faithful, sober Chinaman.</p><P>This Atlantic immigrant now holds the <HI REND="italics">balance of power</HI>
030.sgm: at the polls, and says to the politician, "My competitor, who stands in the way of my inalienable right to rule must go;" and down goes the politician on his knees before the balance of power.  There are a few noble exceptions of <HI REND="italics">statesmen</HI>
030.sgm: who do not bite the dust in this manner.  Such are Senators Hoar, Dawes, Hawley and Platt, who have stood nobly for ancient principles and the right, and such there are, too, on the Pacific coast, grand men and women who have held on to justice and right amid an overwhelming and demoralizing public opinion.</p><P>Doubtless there was and is much reason on both sides of this question. No one at the great mass meeting in San Francisco seems to have attempted to explain why that great city allowed such dens of vice to exist in Chinatown, and permitted the vicious side of life in the Chinese quarter to be exploited and advertised, as it was in that day, making it a point of special interest to the curious visitor.  And I am wondering if matters are much better in the present day.  This actual "menace" appears not to have been crushed out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:nor even controlled, in spite of the unanimous public opinion which, many years ago, abolished the competition of Chinese labor in this Country.</p><P>Mrs. Baldwin in her brochure above mentioned quotes a letter written later to U. S. Grant, when he was President, signed by seven leading Chinamen in this country.  This letter is tolerant and reasonable, especially as coming from men of a race who had every right to consider themselves persecuted.  The letter reads as follows:</p><P>A MEMORIAL FROM REPRESENTATIVE CHINAMEN IN AMERICA To His Excellency U. S. GRANT, <HI REND="italics">President of the United States of America</HI>
030.sgm:.</p><P>Sir: -- In the absence of any consular representative, we, the undersigned, in the name and in behalf of the Chinese people now in America, would most respectfully present for your consideration the following statements regarding the subject of Chinese immigration to this country:<LB><HI REND="italics">First</HI>
030.sgm:.-- We understand that it has always been the settled policy of your honorable government to welcome immigration to your shores, from all countries, without let or hinderance. The Chinese are not the only people who have crossed the ocean to seek a residence in this land.  <HI REND="italics">Second</HI>
030.sgm:. <LB>-- The treaty of amity and peace between the United States and China makes special mention of the rights and privileges of Americans in China, and also of the rights and privileges of Chinese in America.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Third</HI>
030.sgm:.</p><P>-- American steamers, subsidized by your honorable government, have visited the ports of China, and invited our people to come to this country to find employment and improve their condition.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Fourth</HI>
030.sgm:.</p><P>-- Our people in this country, for the most part, have been peaceable, law-abiding and industrious.  They performed the largest part of the unskilled labor in the construction of the Central Pacific Railroad, and also of other railroads on this coast.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:They have found useful employment in all the manufacturing. establishments of this coast, in agricultural pursuits, and in family service.  While benefiting themselves with the honest reward of their daily toil, they have given satisfaction to their employees, and have left all the results of their industry to enrich the State. They have not displaced white laborers from these positions, but have simply multiplied industries.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Fifth</HI>
030.sgm:. </p><P>- The Chinese have neither attempted nor desired to interfere with the established order of things in this country, either of politics or religion.  They have opened no whiskey saloons for the purpose of dealing out poison, and degrading their fellow men.  They have promptly paid their duties, their taxes, their rents and their debts.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sixth</HI>
030.sgm:. </p><P>-- It has often occurred, about the time of the State and general elections, that political agitators have stirred up the mind of the people in hostility to the Chinese; but formerly the hostility has subsided after the elections were over.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Seventh</HI>
030.sgm:.</p><P>-- At the present tIme an intense excitement and bitter hostility against the Chinese in this land, and against further Chinese immigration, has been created in the minds of the people, led on by his Honor the Mayor of San Francisco and his associates in office, and approved by his Excellency the Governor of the State and other great men of the State.  These great men gathered some twenty thousand of the people of this city together on the evening of April 5, and adopted an address and resolutions against Chinese immigration.  They have since appointed three men (one of whom we understand to be the author of the address and resolutions) to carry that address and those resolutions to your Excellency, and to present further objections, if possible, against the immigration of the Chinese to this country.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Eighth</HI>
030.sgm:.</p><P>-- In this address, numerous charges are made against our people, some of which are highly colored and sensational, and others, having no foundation in fact, are only calculated to mislead honest minds, and create an unjust prejudice against us.  We wish most respectfully to call your attention, and through you the attention of Congress, to some of the statements of that remarkable paper, and ask a careful comparison of the statements there made with the facts in the case.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>(<HI REND="italics">a</HI>
030.sgm: )  It is charged against us, that not one virtuous Chinawoman has been brought to this country, and that here we have no wives and children.</p><P>The fact is, that already a few hundred Chinese families have been brought here.  These are all chaste, pure, keepers at home, not known on the public street.  There are also among us a few hundred, perhaps a thousand, Chinese children born in America. The reason why so few of our families are brought to this country is because it is contrary to the custom and against the inclination of virtuous Chinese women to go so far from home, and because the frequent outbursts of popular indignation against our people have not encouraged us to bring our families with us against their will.</p><P>Quite a number of Chinese prostitutes have been brought to this country by unprincipled men, but these at first were brought from China at the instigation and for the gratification of white men.  And even at the present time it is commonly reported that a part of the proceeds of this villainous traffic goes to enrich a certain class of men belonging to this honorable nation, a class, too, who are under solemn obligation to suppress the whole vile business, and who certainly have it in their power to suppress it if they so desired.  A few years ago our Chinese merchants tried to send these prostitutes back to China, and succeeded in getting a large number on board the steamer; but a certain lawyer of your honorable nation (said to be the author and bearer of these resolutions against our people), in the employ of unprincipled Chinamen, procured a writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
030.sgm:, and brought all those women on shore again, and the courts decided that they had a right to stay in the country if they so desired.  These women are still here; and the only remedy for this evil, and also for the evil of gambling, so far as we can see, lies in an honest and impartial administration of municipal government in all its details, even including the police department.  If officers would refuse bribes, these unprincipled men could no longer purchase immunity from the punishment of their crimes.</p><P>(<HI REND="italics">b</HI>
030.sgm: )  It is charged against us that we have purchased no real estate.  The general tone of public sentiment has not been such as to encourage us to invest in real estate, and yet our people have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:purchased and now own over eight hundred thousand dollars worth of real estate in San Francisco alone.</p><P>(<HI REND="italics">c</HI>
030.sgm: ) It is charged against us that we eat rice, fish and vegetables. It is true that our diet is slightly different from the people of this honorable country; our tastes in these matters are not exactly alike, and cannot be forced.  But is that a sin on our part of <HI REND="italics">sufficient gravity</HI>
030.sgm: to be brought before the President and Congress of the United States?</p><P>(<HI REND="italics">d</HI>
030.sgm: ) It is charged that the Chinese are no benefit to this country. Are the railroads built by Chinese labor no benefit to this country? Do not the results of the daily toil of one hundred thousand men increase the riches of this country?  Are the manufacturing establishments largely worked by Chinese labor no benefit to this country? Is it no benefit to this country that the Chinese annually pay over two million dollars duties at the custom-house of San Francisco? Is not the two hundred thousand dollars annual poll tax paid by the Chinese any benefit? And are not the hundreds of thousands of dollars taxes on personal property and the foreign miners' tax annually paid to the revenues of this country any benefit?</p><P>(<HI REND="italics">e</HI>
030.sgm: ) It is charged against us that the Six Companies have secretly established judicial tribunals, jails and prisons, and secretly exercise judicial authority over our people.  This charge has no foundation in fact.  These Six Companies were organized for the purpose of mutual protection and care of our people coming to and going from this country.  The Six Companies do not claim nor do they exercise any judicial authority whatever, but are the same as any tradesmen's or protective and benevolent societies.  Neither do these companies import either men or women into this country.</p><P>(<HI REND="italics">f</HI>
030.sgm: ) It is charged that all Chinese laboring men are slaves. This is not true in a <HI REND="italics">single instance</HI>
030.sgm:. Chinamen labor for food. They pursue all kinds of industries for a livelihood.  Is it so, then, that every man laboring for his livelihood is a slave?  If these men are slaves, then all men laboring for wages are slaves.</p><P>(<HI REND="italics">g</HI>
030.sgm: ) It is charged that the Chinese commerce brings no benefit to American bankers and importers. But the fact is, that an immense trade is carried on between China and the United States by American merchants, and all the carrying business of both <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:countries, whether by steamer or sailing vessels, or by railroad, is done by Americans. No China ships are engaged in the carrying traffic between the two countries.  Is it a sin to be charged against us, that the Chinese merchants are able to conduct their mercantile business on their own capital? And is not the exchange of millions of dollars annually by the Chinese of this city any benefit to the banks?</p><P>(<HI REND="italics">h</HI>
030.sgm: ) We respectfully ask a careful consideration of all the foregoing statements. The Chinese are not the only people, nor do they bring the only evils, that now afflict this country. And since the Chinese people are now here, under the most solemn treaty rights, we hope to be protected according to the terms of this treaty. But if the Chinese are considered detrimental to the best interests of this country, and if our presence here is offensive to the American people, let there be a modification of existing treaty relations between China and the United States, either prohibiting or limiting further Chinese immigration, and, if desirable, requiring also the gradual retirement of the Chinese people now here from this country.  Such an arrangement, though not without embarrassments to both parties, we believe would not be altogether unacceptable to the Chinese government, and doubtless it would be very acceptable to a certain class of people in this honorable country.</p><P>With sentiments of profound respect,</p><P>LEE MING How, <HI REND="italics">President, Sam Yeep Company</HI>
030.sgm:. LEE CHEE KWAN, <HI REND="italics">President, Yung Wo Company</HI>
030.sgm:. LAW YEE CHUNG, <HI REND="italics">President, Kong Chow Company</HI>
030.sgm:. CHAN LEUNG Kox, <HI REND="italics">President, Wing Lung Company</HI>
030.sgm:. LEE CHEONG CHIP, <HI REND="italics">President, Hop Wu Company</HI>
030.sgm:. CHANG KONG CHEW, <HI REND="italics">President, Yan Wo Company</HI>
030.sgm:. LEE TONG HAY, <HI REND="italics">President, Chinese Y. M. C. A.</HI>
030.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>The last cargo of Chinese Coolies was brought to San Francisco in the steamer "Arabic" some years later. There were 1,200 of them.</p><P>JANUARY 12.  I have accepted an offer from Dr. Whitwell to assist in his practice and his sanitarium work in San Francisco. I began work with him today and saw a case of hydrocephalus, an infant of nine months, whose head measures 17 1/2 inches in circumference.</p><P>JANUARY 13. -- Velma and I both sat for our pictures at Rieman's today;  afterwards I vaccinated Mrs. Alfred E. Davis of Santa Cruz, her son Clifford, and her daughter Susie.  They invited us to go to Santa Cruz with them tomorrow.</p><P>JANUARY 14. -- Velma and I went with the Davises to Santa Cruz by train, through a very lovely country -- San Leandro, San Lorenzo, Alvarado, Alviso, Santa Clara and San Jose.  It was a beautiful day, and we rode in the baggage car most of the way the better to enjoy the scenery through the wide open door.  We returned to San Francisco tonight.</p><P>JANUARY 16. -- At the request of Dr. Whitwell, who is editor of the "Western Medical Lancet," the leading medical journal on the coast, I have contributed an article to that paper which was published today, and I have been writing the book reviews for that journal, so am very busy evenings reading medical books.</p><P>JANUARY 20. -- I am with Dr. Whitwell or at the Sanitarium most of the time, but in my leisure hours, manage to see something of my own friends.  The other day we went to a birthday party at Emma Van Tassell's, 20 12th Street.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARKET STREET, FROM 3RD STREET, LOOKING EAST, SAN FRANCISCO, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CROCKER AND COLTON MANSIONS, CALIFORNIA STREET, SAN FRANCISCO, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<P>Billy Slocum has recently married an old flame who came out here from Iowa for the wedding, and of course we have called upon the bride.  I also called on the Messrs. Farnsworth, the Misses Zeller, and Hattie Raymond, and on Mrs. Whitwell, at whose house I met her two brothers, Chester and Cutler Bonestell. Velma and I have been to see Mrs. Kenzie, Mrs. Ward, Mrs. Wickware, Kate Briggs, Mrs. Davis and her children, Clifford and Susie, and also the Starrs, with whom we afterwards went to a football game -- Rugby rules.  A player by the name of Deane fractured his collar bone, and Dr. McDermott the team physician, promptly set it.</p><P>JANUARY 21. -- Mrs. Kent and Mrs. Whitwell took Velma and me to see the somewhat primitive County Jail today. We saw a number of prisoners and talked with several of them, among them one Wheeler, who killed his sister-in-law,<ANCHOR ID="n2-15">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: and Owen, who murdered his wife. We thought both of these men rather handsome and refined looking.  Another murderer whom we interviewed had killed a Chinaman in a shooting gallery, and there was a famous abortionist and other desperate criminals.  This evening Kate Briggs and Mr. Spencer took us to the Winter Garden to see Emerson's Minstrels.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-15">This man was hanged in 1884.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>JANUARY 22. -- Velma and I were invited by Mrs. Whitwell to attend the Unitarian Church with her, and afterwards, with her two brothers, to return to lunch at her house. The Rev. Mr. Stebbins preached a queer sermon, entirely on the subject of taking cold. I have a bad cold, so perhaps it was meant for me. In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:the evening Slocum called with his bride, and Mrs. Camp also came to see Velma. I spent the rest of the evening with Miss Lombard and her sister. The latter gave me a very pretty painted palette.</p><P>JANUARY 26. -- I went down town this morning and made several calls -- on Mrs. Whitwell, Slocum and Hattie Howland. This evening Velma and I dined at Dr. Whitwell's, and Rev. Mr. Stebbins was there also. It has been a showery day, but this evening it cleared off.</p><P>JANUARY 27. -- Down town again this morning doing errands with Velma. This afternoon I made several calls, as usual, and in the evening I took Hattie Howland to see "The Pretty Galathea" and "John of Paris," at the Tivoli Garden. We had a very enjoyable evening, and Velma was not lonely, as Mr. Spencer and Kate spent the evening with her.</p><P>This is my last night in San Francisco for the present, for since I took up work with Dr. Whitwell at the sanitarium, trying at the same time to keep up my social life, I have been overtaxing my strength and growing worse instead of better. My cough has troubled me a great deal, and the clinical signs in my lungs are not quite as encouraging as they were.  Dr. Sawyer and Dr. Hubbard have therefore decided that I must go south to Los Angeles, where the climate is better than San Francisco, and where I shall not be tempted to overexert myself.  Mr. Cross has given me a letter of introduction to General Mansfield, who is Lieutenant Governor of the State and lives at Los Angeles.</p><P>JANUARY 28. -- Today Velma and I left San Francisco at 9.30 A.M., and we parted at the station with <illus entity="a030-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A. F. SAWYER, M.D., SAN FRANCISCO, 1881</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:much regret with a group of good friends who were waiting there to bid us farewell.  Will Slocum was there, and Mr. Nichols and his daughter, with a bottle of blackberry brandy to fortify us on our journey; Mr. James T. Cross of Welch &amp; Co., with journals to read on the train, and a present for Velma of a seal-skin shopping bag from Mr. Andrew Welch; and Rose Blum, who accompanied us as far as Martinez. Hattie Howland, Mrs. Noyes and Emma Lombard had bid us adieu previously. When our train drew up at Martinez there was Dave Fagan on the platform to greet us. After Rose Blum had left us at that station Velma was the only lady in the car with thirty-two men. In the evening after the lights were lighted I played cards with two other passengers, R. M. Powers of Salt Lake City and Albert Glass of Los Angeles.</p><P>When we left San Francisco on the morning of the 28th we took the boat across the ferry, landing in the new depot, which is the only genuine depot San Francisco has.  We took cars via Lathrop. There is little of interest to the traveller until he enters the great San Joaquin Valley, which is over two hundred miles in length and from twenty-five to forty miles in width, and of this, six million acres is of the richest land in the State; many more millions of acres are very rich and capable of cultivation, but there are so many people who have claims to the land, that in order to get possession one would need a fortune to fight the lawsuits.  Riding through this beautiful valley one is struck with the bright green which at this time of year the country presents.  Many patches of brilliantly colored wild flowers lie on the sides of the hills, blended <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:as only nature can, and in the midst of all this are dotted white houses.  High mountains shut in the view on either side as a relief to the level extent of the plains. At Lathrop we took lunch, for which we were allowed twenty minutes.  Continuing our journey, we passed many small places, none of which, except Modesto, can be called a town.  Modesto is the county seat of the farming county of Stanislaus, and has a population of about 2,000 which, considering that it was laid out as late as 1870, is speaking very well for the place; but the richest town in all the San Joaquin Valley is Merced, the county seat of Merced County. This place has a population of about 3,000. It has many hundred acres under cultivation, the principal product being wheat. The land is irrigated by canals, the largest of which is the San Joaquin and King's River Canal, which is eight feet deep, one hundred miles long, and sixty to seventy feet wide. Land is valued at from $5 to $10 per acre. From here our course is a little nearer the Sierras, which are very rugged.</p><P>From the town of Berenda can be distinguished Mts. Lyell, Goddard, King and Brewer, with their snow nightcaps on, as if about retiring as the evening comes close upon us.  At Madera, twenty miles beyond, we partook of a very nice supper.  This place has about 300 inhabitants and the country around is stocked with sheep. Near the town there is a large V-shaped flume, which is over fifty miles long, and is used for floating lumber down from the sawmills.  After twenty-five minutes for supper, we continued our journey, the country growing more level, and hundreds of irrigating ditches appearing along the line. Few trees of any size <illus entity="a030-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCK, SAN FRANCISCO, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GRAND HOTEL, SAN FRANCISCO, 1881</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SAN FRANCISCO, 1881</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>are now seen except upon the mountains, and just as the lamps were being lighted and the curtains being pulled down for the night we reached Fresno, a place which the railroad has tried to build up during the last two years by running excursion trains with low fares from all parts of California, and offering land for from $3 to $10 an acre.  From Fresno the sheep country commences; sheep ranches, fenced fields, each with a large herd of sheep with their shepherd and his dogs, may be seen on either side of the track.  Herds of cattle are also to be seen here and there, the pasturage being very good except for a few alkali tracts.  Sixty miles farther on we came to Toulon, which is known as a very rich country, adjoining Tulare Lake.  It has been said that this land has raised five crops of alfalfa, a very rich feed, each year.  Pumpkins weighing 150 pounds are said to be grown here, and potatoes weighing 10 pounds. Land is higher here, ranging from $30 to $90 per acre.  Passing through Tulare and Allila, both pretty places, we reached Lardo, about fifty miles distant. Here are located the Buena Vista Oil Works. Great quantities of oil are to be found in the ground here. Any one who would come and sink wells would be rewarded -- oil is found even in the ditches for an area of forty-six miles.</p><P>It was very dark when we reached Kern County, and we were disappointed that we could see nothing of the wonderful Livermore Ranch of which we have heard so much.  This ranch contains 7,000 acres of land. Mr. Livermore cuts four crops of alfalfa a year, which cover three thousand acres.  Still another thousand acres are in vegetables and grain, all being irrigated by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:one hundred and sixty miles of ditches, carrying water from two artesian wells which discharge nearly 100,000 gallons of water a day. Some of these ditches are made by a plough, owned by Mr. Livermore, said to be the largest in the world.  It weighs 2,140 pounds, and is hauled by eighty oxen, making a furrow five feet wide and three feet deep. With such a plough he can break from eight to ten miles of ground a day.  One would think that Mr. Livermore might be satisfied with this ranch, but no! he is a Californian, and never will be satisfied. A short time ago he purchased another ranch of 3,500 acres, and on these two ranches he has nearly 15,000 head of live stock.</p><P>At Caliente the passengers crowded to the platform to see the results of the wonderful engineering which takes the trains over Tehachapi Summit.</p><P>This is considered one of the greatest engineering feats in the world.  From Caliente to the summit of the Pass, which is 3,064 feet above the level of the sea, the railroad has an average upgrade of over 100 feet to the mile.  The line along here is called the "Loop," and the scenery is very beautiful. The moon, now full, was well up in the heavens, and its soft light and shadows could almost be felt as well as seen on the great expanse of country now open to our view.  Up, and still up we went, now around a little sugar loaf hill, then down into a ravine and through small groves of cedars or scrubby pines. We passed through tunnel after tunnel as we wended our way towards the sky, emerging only to look down into frightful chasms, a thousand feet below, along whose edge faithful laborers have toiled month after month until this great work <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:was accomplished.   Seventeen tunnels we passed through, winding round and round, the track crossing itself many times.  We finally reached the summit, a station consisting of a store, a telegraph office, a hotel, and five buildings. From Tehachapi Summit we dashed down the mountain at a breakneck speed into the Mojave Desert, which is a tract of land about forty miles broad, composed chiefly of sand and alkali. Nothing grows here except a little sagebrush, a great deal of cactus, and the Yucca palm, which is a kind of tree peculiar to the Mojave Desert, and a species of cactus growing from thirty to fifty feet in height.</p><P>On waking in the morning we found ourselves at Newhall, with the solid barrier of the San Fernando Mountains ahead of us.  We were at a loss to know how we were to get on the other side of these mountains which are over 2,000 feet high, but such problems are soon solved by the engineers of the day.  Pushing up a grade of 116 feet to the mile, we reached a tunnel at an elevation of 1,400 feet.  Passing through the tunnel, the length of which is about 6,900 feet, we came out upon a most beautiful valley which is truly a "land flowing with milk and honey."  Dotted here and there among the verdure of this valley are cattle ranches, while along the foothills may be seen large bee ranches, with their rows of white beehives like the portholes on a man-of-war.</p><P>In the fall, southern California is anything but inviting; the whole country is covered with dry grass, such as we see in the East after the first frost.  But the grass in California retains its substance and is fully as nutritious and fattening after having been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:dried and weather-beaten for a year as it is when it first springs from the ground. The grass which grows over the mountains and hills produces a little burr about the size of a beet seed, or a little larger, which dries and falls to the ground, completely covering it. The sheep live on these until the next rain comes.</p><P>In southern California one sees no loafers on the corners of the streets of the principal towns.  There is little loafing in this State.  Even the lowest seem to have too much pride to use themselves as supports for the buildings, or to hold the bricks down.  There seems to be something for all of them to do, and they do it.</p><P>Why do so many people come to southern California?  Not so much for the country as for the climate.  For eight months of the year the climate is beautiful; for the other four months the country is beautiful.  For eight months the country is brown and dusty; for four it is green and fresh.</p><P>Continuing down through the beautiful valley, we finally reached Los Angeles in time for breakfast.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD><p>LOS ANGELES IN 1882 -- THE OLD TOWN THE FORT -- THE SUBURBS SAMUEL HENRY KENT -- SANTA MONICA THE PERRY FAMILY GENERAL WILLIAM T. SHERMAN CALIFORNIA DESERT -- YUMA</P>
030.sgm:<P>JANUARY 29, 1882. -- We arrived in Los Angeles at eight this morning and went immediately to the Pico House, which is on the Plaza, or town square, in the lower part of the town. We were hungry and enjoyed a delicious breakfast of fried chicken, eggs, chocolate, strawberries, oranges and griddle cakes. For supper tonight we had hot tamales, made by Mexican women, of beef, corn meal and red peppers, stuffed into a corn husk and then boiled.  We have Japanese persimmons, oranges, limes and prickly pears, fresh from the trees. Mr. Griswold, the proprietor of the Pico House, is most accommodating.</p><P>This afternoon we met a Mr. Waller who was in Napa with his family when we were there last summer, and our cousin, S. Henry Kent, who is here to build a new high school. We took a long walk with them both. Los Angeles is a Spanish town, and the section where the Pico House is situated is part of the old town, where one sees mostly Mexicans and Indians and adobe houses. There are some pretty white residences cropping <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:up outside the town, especially to the west and south, and the streets and sidewalks are better taken care of in that section; many of the houses are surrounded by lime, lemon or olive trees, and some have groves behind.</p><P>We met today United States Senator Cole, who is staying here, and Mr. Bliss, who has a pretty orange grove, and also my father's old friend, T. W. Severance, who is living in Los Angeles after spending some years in South America.  We saw a number of pretty residences on our walk, including Mr. Severance's, the Hellman's, the Kurkoff's, Mr. Hollenbeck's, and Mr. W. H. Perry's. We found it very dry and dusty everywhere; even in Washington Gardens, so called, the walks were dusty, though it is a fairly well kept park. The dust is especially trying in the old part of the town near our hotel, excepting in the very center of the plaza, where there is a small fountain, and so, on account of the dust and of the construction of the hotel, which allows little sunlight to enter the rooms, we had in mind on our walk the selection of a more suburban place to Stay, with more foliage and less dust, that we may enjoy the air and sunshine of this climate.  This evening we had some relief from the dust in a little shower, which was welcome.  Today I presented my letter to General Mansfield and found him very cordial and pleasant. We have also made the acquaintance of Mr. Broderick and Mr. Clemens and of Miss Carrie Cunningham of Nova Scotia.</p><P>I am picking up all the facts I can about Los Angeles, that I may the better enjoy my stay here. It has been good training to be with Slocum.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SONORA, THE ORIGINAL SETTLEMENT OF LOS ANGELES; OCCUPIED IN 1882 BY AGED SPANIARDS AND MEXICANS; MANY ADOBE HOUSES</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW OF LOS ANGELES FROM THE TOP OF THE COURT HOUSE, 1882</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PICO HOUSE, LOS ANGELES, 1882</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<P>The first thing that strikes one is the quaint appearance of the lower, or Sonora, part of the town. This extends from the depot to the plaza, or open park, situated just on the edge of the business part of the city. Every old Mexican town has a plaza, where on Sundays the people congregate to enjoy their many sports. Bull fights are now in California a thing of the past; the last one took place in 1876, but did not amount to much.</p><P>The climate of Los Angeles has been rather overrated, though the old residents say that it has been an unusual season.  This we admit, but it is not the first; the years 1827, 1828 and 1829 and 1844, 1845 and 1846 are said to have been marked by terrible droughts.  In December, 1855, ice formed one-half inch in thickness.  On December 4, 1865, ice formed and enough snow fell to enable the inhabitants to have snowballing.  In February, 1867, ice formed again. In 1869 and 1871 ice formed one-fourth inch in thickness; and in January, 1878, ice formed in some places 1 5/8 inches in thickness.</p><P>Several interesting accounts of earthquakes are recorded.  The first one recorded was in the year 1812, December 8.  It also appears to have been the most destructive; thirty-six persons were killed outright and a great many buildings were destroyed. An earthquake occurred January 9, 1857, which threw the bells from the tower of the San Gabriel Mission Church. Others have been felt July 11, 1855, April 14 and May 2, 1856, January 27, 1860, May 7, 1862, March 26, 1872, and March 26, 1880.</p><P>The nights of Los Angeles are always cool and one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:can sleep under blankets the year round. Few persons are troubled with sleepless nights, or wake in the morning feeling more tired than they retired the evening before, which we all know is a common occurrence in the East. Some of the days are marked by intense heat, but it is not the debilitating heat of Boston or New York, and if one judges by his feelings 110&deg; in the shade here would be 86&deg; in New York or Boston. Blizzards or sand storms are rare; the only one of importance took place April 2, 1872, and almost obscured the sun's light. The number of perfect cloudless days averages about two hundred in the year.  During the summer the city is favored with a sea breeze in the afternoon, which is very pleasant and relieves the intense heat of the sun.  Foliage remains green until several months after the last rain; in fact, the sun does not seem to have the same power that it does east of the Rockies.  Sunstrokes are unknown, and there have been but two cases of rabid dogs reported in the whole State of California.</p><P>Through East Los Angeles there flows what we in the East would call a brook, but here it is designated as Los Angeles River.</p><P>Los Angeles River is not to be laughed at, however, for without it thousands of acres which it now irrigates would be a desolate waste.  Although it drains three hundred and twenty square miles of country, yet, except in very wet seasons, none of it reaches the ocean. The streets of Los Angeles are made of a kind of clay or adobe and gravel, and are kept in very good condition, a chain gang of prisoners being employed for this purpose. The city has about 18,000 inhabitants, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:and an immense amount of business is carried on in a quiet way, though it certainly has the appearance of a lively little city.  Almost every kind of business is transacted here, but the commission merchants and the hotel and lumber business rank among the most important. Among other employments is the important one of fruit canning; there are also three breweries, two carriage and wagon factories, one soap manufactory, stone works and gas works.  The city supports six daily papers, including one Spanish and one German paper, also a very good magazine, the "Semi-Tropic California and Southern California Agriculturist."  The petroleum wells of Pied Ca&ntilde;;on bid fair to be a source of considerable income; also the castor oil manufactory of Downey, a town about eight miles distant. The castor bean grows wild all through this country, and it is very little expense to gather it. Many minerals have been found in Los Angeles County, among them gold, silver, copper and coal; but with the exception of coal there are few mines of any great importance. The country is more adapted to agriculture, and especially to the grapevine.  Orange culture holds an important part, but the present year is noticeable on account of the increase of vines planted over the increase of orange trees.  Barley, rye, oats, buckwheat and Indian corn are grown here.</p><P>Among the largest orange groves and vineyards are those of L. J. Rose, the Wolfskill orchard, Longstreet's place, B. D. Wilson's, General Stoneman's, Shorb's, Baldwin's and Pasadena, or the Indian Colony.</p><P>In 1860 there were in Los Angeles County 78,000 head of cattle; in 1880 the number fell to 15,000 head.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:In 1865 there were 15,500 horses; in 1876 there were but 10,000.  As there was a decrease in cattle and horses, so there was an increase in sheep and swine. In 1830 there were 21,000 head of sheep, and in 1875 there were 500,000.  In 1831 there were 1,000 swine; in 1881, 19,000.</p><P>The mission of Los Angeles was founded in 1797. In 1830 there was a decline of the missions.  Where the city now stands was in the eighteenth century occupied by an Indian village called "Vang-na."  Here dwelt the aborigines in peace and quiet. Little thought they of the future, but lived along, enjoying their hunting and fishing.  They lived in a kind of a hut made with a few poles covered with mats made from flag or straw.  For food they ate wild cats, deer, crows, rats, raccoons, skunks, fish, snakes, squirrels, locusts and grasshoppers, toasted; seals, whales, sea otter and shellfish.  Eagles, owls and bears were held sacred. They believed in a god whom they called "Ina-o-ar." The village contained about 1,800. The men went entirely naked, but the female dress consisted of pretty stone ornaments, shells and whales' teeth, and a piece of deerskin suspended from the waist.  Chiefs only practised polygamy.</p><P>In Dana's "Two Years Before the Mast" can be found a very interesting account of the Indians of Los Angeles County. Among the first known to have come to this county was San Diego McKinley of Scotland, who arrived in 1824.  The oldest resident now living is Colonel Warner.  Jedediah Smith, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, came here in 1825.  Ewing Young came in 1832, with Moses Carson, a brother <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:of Kit Carson.  Mr. Rice came here in 1824 from the Sandwich Islands.  Los Angeles from the time of its settlement, for more than fifty years, had a larger population than any other town in California.  The first censes, taken in 1836, shows a population in the county, exclusive of San Juan Capistrano, of 2,228, and of this number, 533 were Indians. The city is now connected by rail with two ports, that of San Pedro, twenty-two miles distant, and Santa Monica, eighteen miles. Among its principal buildings are three banks, the Baker Block, the Downey Block and the State Normal School, now in process of construction under the superintendence of our cousin, S. H. Kent, formerly of South Boston.</p><P>One thing Los Angeles needs more than anything else is a family hotel, anywhere just on the city's outskirts. Such an enterprise would certainly be a financial success. The hotels are always crowded, and many go away because they cannot find suitable accommodations, who would otherwise stay several months.</p><P>FEBRUARY 1. -- A year ago today I had my most severe hemorrhage from the lungs in Honolulu.  I am thankful to be so much better, and I realize that San Francisco would not have been a good place for me to remain long, especially with the work that I had undertaken there.  This more relaxing climate and leisurely life are much better for me.</p><P>After lunch yesterday Albert Glass (whom I met on the train) and his friend Rodney Powers of Salt Lake City called with a barouche and pair to show us about and help us find a less dusty place to live. First of all, we went to the Hammond House, where we immediately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:engaged rooms and today we have moved into them.  I visited today the old Mexican Fort, and I found it very interesting, not only on account of its picturesqueness, but because of its romantic history.</p><P>In military history Los Angeles took quite a prominent part in the Mexican War, and the remains of the fort now throw a shadow over the old part of the town. This fort was thrown up in July, 1847, and in excavating part of it last year old cannon and balls were found in goodly numbers.  It was occupied by Lieutenant Gillespie, General Fremont and Commodore Stockton during the war.  Several engagements took place in and near the city; among those were a skirmish fight October 7 and 8, 1846, between Captain Mervin and Jose Antonio Carrillo; also the battle of the Laguna, January 9, 1847, between Commodore Stockton and General Kearney, Americans, and Jose Maria Flores, Mexican; and two charges made by Captains Johnson and Moore upon the Mexicans on the evening of December 6, 1848, in which thirty-eight were killed and wounded. On the 17th of January, 1847, Los Angeles ceased to be a military station.  The news of the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo did not reach the city until August 15, 1848, though ratified May 30 previous.</p><P>It was before Los Angeles came into the possession of the United States, however, that it was made a city, the Congress of Mexico incorporating it as such in 1836.  Quite an excitement followed the discovery of gold in 1840-41 by Don Andres Castillero and Mr. Francisco Lopez, the first of which was shipped around Cape Horn and received at the United States Mint at Philadelphia.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>This evening we played cards at the hotel.  I had Mrs. Clemens for my partner against Mr. Clemens and Mrs. Ellis.  Mr. Waller has come to board here and is sharing my room at present.</p><P>FEBRUARY 2. -- Mr. Waller took us for a lovely drive this afternoon, around the foothills and among sheep ranches, and, nearer home, some flourishing vegetable and honey ranches. Bee culture and raising honey have been an industry among the foothills of the city of Los Angeles, and have so far proved quite a success.  According to James T. Gordon, the first hive of bees was introduced into this county in 1854. In April, 1855, this hive cast out two swarms, which sold for $100 each as they were clustered on a bush. The "Express" of March 30, 1872, gives notice of the introduction of the first queen bee at an expense of $65.  In 1880 honey sold for $1.45 per pound.  It now can be bought for from 7 to 15 cents per pound.  At one ranch which we visited they had over 6,000 pounds of honey on hand after having sold a great deal of their season's product. On the way home we stopped at the Dutch settlement, where the people are also engaged in bee culture.  We returned to our hotel about six.</p><P>FEBRUARY 3. -- We have been driving all day today. Right after breakfast the inseparable Messrs. Powers and Glass called with a barouche for Velma and me, and we drove out to the Sierra Madre Villa.  On the way we stopped at Sunny South Ranch, L. J. Rose's place. He has 1,000 acres, 600 in grapes and the rest in oranges and other fruit.  We had dinner at the lovely Sierra Madre Villa, at San Gabriel, which is owned by W. P. Cogswell, the artist, a first-class hotel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:(managed by W. P. Rhoades), situated in the midst of orange groves, overlooking the San Gabriel Valley, in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains, only about thirteen miles from Los Angeles and 1,800 feet above sea level. It accommodates fifty or sixty guests. We spent two very pleasant hours walking about the extensive grounds, which are beautifully planted and are irrigated on a plan which economizes the water and secures most satisfactory results -- about every two hundred yards there is a hydrant with a long hose in the hands of a Chinaman, who dispenses the refreshing showers.  The orange and lemon trees are very thrifty looking. The water comes from a grotto, about three-quarters of a mile distant. To reach it we passed through some lemon groves belonging to a Mr. Davis.  We ascended some three hundred feet to the brow of the hill, and from there it seemed as if we were descending on the other side to the source of the water supply, but of course this appearance was deceptive. The flume runs around a chasm which, from its depth and picturesqueness, might almost be called a miniature Cape Horn.  Finally we came to the charming grotto.  In a crypt hollowed out of the solid rock by the rushing waters we made a sharp turn to the right and came upon a cascade which plunged for a distance of fifteen or twenty feet over a shelving rock.  The roots of great gnarled trees reached clear down to the pool in which the water plunged.  We enjoyed a cool, delicious drink after our hot climb.  There are said to be plenty of mountain trout in the San Gabriel River, near the Sierra Madre Villa, and grizzly, black and cinnamon bear, California lions, deer, mountain sheep and antelope, hare and rabbit, as well as quail, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:doves and smaller birds, are to be found in the mountains and near-by plains.  We returned to Los Angeles through Indiana Colony, Pasadena and East Los Angeles after a most enjoyable day.</p><P>FEBRUARY 4. -- This afternoon Velma and I called <illus entity="a030-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE NEW NORMAL SCHOOL, 1882</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:on Lieutenant-Governor Mansfield, but found no one at home, so we went on to the new Normal School and found Mr. Kent there. Mr. Kent has every reason to be proud of his achievement in the construction of this building.  A bill providing for an appropriation of $50,000 was passed by the California Legislature in the session of 1881, having failed to get through in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:1880, so very little time has been occupied in its construction, and it is indeed a very fine piece of work. The $8,000 for the purchase of the site on Bellevue Terrace had been raised by private subscriptions from patriotic citizens.  The construction was begun on November 28 last, and is already so well under way that there is no doubt that the building will be ready to open on August 29, according to the plan.  The building will accommodate about 350 pupils in the Normal School and 100 in the Training School.  The front of the building toward Charity Street is 131 1/2 feet, the depth 104 feet.</p><P>FEBRUARY 6. -- Yesterday (Sunday) we went to the Presbyterian Church in the morning, and in the evening to the Chinese school and a concert in the Methodist Church with Mr. Powers and Mr. Glass.  We met Mr. Kent there and they all came back and spent the rest of the evening with us. We have been indoors all day on account of a sand storm from the Mojave Desert -- the wind still blows furiously at 10 P.M. Mr. Kent called in the evening and Mr. Waller was here, and we all played cards, as we do almost every night.</p><P>FEBRUARY 7. -- After getting our mail this morning Velma and I went with our constant companions, Mr. Powers and Mr. Glass, to Mr. William Cogswell's studio, to see his portrait of Miss Mamie Perry, the "prima donna."  Later I took a pleasant walk with Carrie Cunningham.  There is a wonderful variety of trees about here, -- oranges, lemons, limes, pomegranates, figs and all kinds of tropical and semi-tropical fruits, huge palm trees, bananas, beautiful Italian and Monterey cypresses, live oaks, peppers and eucalyptus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:trees.  Many of them are sadly whipped by the storm, but will soon regain their beautiful foliage. We walked to the picturesque old adobe Mission Church.  It has been a delightful cool day after the storm.</p><P>Here I must interrupt my journal to pay tribute to my mother's cousin, Samuel Henry Kent, of San Francisco, who died on March 25, 1925, at the ripe age of ninety-three, a splendid specimen of manhood, 6 feet 4 inches tall, and straight as an arrow, always with pink cheeks and a smile, kindly, generous and well-read.  He was born in Boston in 1832, and went out to San Francisco, via the Isthmus of Panama, in 1851. There he engaged in the contracting and building trade, and was president of the Builders' Exchange for fifteen years, resigning ten years before his death He arrived in California at a time when the great city of San Francisco was in the making, and he was one of its makers.  He built the old Spring Valley building which for many years stood at the corner of Geary and Stockton streets.  He was also a boat-builder and constructed a steam yacht for William Ralston which later belonged to John D. Spreckels.  Mr. Kent was a prominent Mason, for sixty years a member of the Golden Gate Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons and the Scottish Rite Masons.  He attended the old Calvary Presbyterian Church, which stood on the site of the present Hotel St. Francis.  My sister visited the Kents in California not long before Mr. Kent's death; his second wife, Mrs. Evaline C. Kent, is still living. His ashes were taken out to sea and "scattered to the four winds," as was his wish.</p><P>FEBRUARY 12. -- We had a delightful trip today <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:to Santa Monica.  Our party consisted of Mr. Fox, Mr. Kent, Mr. Glass, Mr. Powers, Miss Cunningham, Velma and myself.</p><P>Leaving Los Angeles early in the morning we drove through a most beautiful, semi-tropical country. The roads were hard and in good condition, and the horses fresh, and as we went through the groves of oranges and other fruits it seemed to us Northerners like a dream.  As we reached the outskirts of the town we came upon groups of Mexicans and Spaniards, lounging around or playing one or another of their many games.  The houses became more scattered as soon we found ourselves approaching the great ranches of which we had heard so much.  The first of any importance was the Wolfskill Ranch, an orchard of a thousand acres, situated near the heart of the city, with 26,000 orange trees, 1,000 limes and 1,800 lemons; they have also a hundred acres in vineyards.  Some orange trees there, twenty-five years old, were one solid mass of the yellow fruit.  What would an Easterner give to have a tree like one of those in his front yard?</p><P>To the right, and some distance below, are Shaw's large orange groves.  To the left is the famous Briswalter's place.  It takes a great deal of time to ride through this place.  Mr. Briswalter has the largest English walnut orchard in Los Angeles County, having 23 acres in walnuts alone.  Altogether he has 240 acres in fruit; of this, 120 acres are in grapes, the rest in oranges, peaches, apples, almonds, limes, lemons, citrons and ornamental trees.  One is welcome to help <illus entity="a030-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAMUEL HENRY KENT, 1882</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:himself to anything in the shape of fruit on his place and carry away all he wants.</p><P>Continuing our ride through this beautiful country we reined up to take in the scenes around us.  One level tract of country is now almost totally dried up by the scarcity of rain this season. Irrigation has saved many ranches, while others who had not that facility are going fast on the road to destruction.  Ahead of us lies Colonel Baker's ranch; he has 1,200 head of cattle, but they, like the sheep, are fast becoming victims of the drought.</p><P>The once fine cattle may be seen lying here and there, stripped of their hides, the only value their owner will ever realize from them. The buzzard then finishes the carcass.  Were it not for this bird it would be worse than sickening to go through one of these ranches after so many cattle have died. As it is, they free the country of carrion, and there is a fine of $50 for every bird killed, thus protecting them from extinction.  This valley is backed up on the east and south by the Sierra Madre and San Bernardino mountains, and on the north by the Coast Range.  Colonel Baker's ranch is the last before reaching Santa Monica, and is one of the largest in southern California.  Besides 1,200 head of cattle, he has 5,000 sheep which graze on the 30,000 acres of his own land, most of which fell to him through his marriage to a Mexican lady to whom these grants then belonged.  Leaving this ranch we soon reached Santa Monica, which is the sea-bathing resort of this part of California, and has the finest beach on the coast. There were not many in bathing today, as it is a little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:cool, but those that were in seemed to be having a very nice time.  Santa Monica is composed chiefly of hotels, saloons and stores, there being but one small church and few residences. There are, however, some fine country homes outside of the town, among them that of Senator Jones of Nevada.  Santa Monica itself is a lovely place, and commands a grand view of the Pacific Ocean, and many sufferers experience great relief from their various troubles by a short stay here and the salt-water baths.  There is a fine bathhouse filled with every convenience, where hot and cold baths can be had at any time.</p><P>Standing on the pier, which is built some 200 feet out into the ocean, the view is indescribable. Back of us lies the town, with pleasure seekers strolling here and there. To the right stretches a long line of beach, back of which lies the noted Malaga ranch.  To the extreme right lies Point Demarol. To the left we see Portuguese Bend, a whaling station, also a very fine fishing ground.  A little to the west of this point the San Clemente and Santa Catalina Islands can be distinguished, while a little northwest of these lies Santa Barbara Island scarcely discernible in the distance. To the front or west stretched the vast Pacific Ocean, truly named, for there seemed to be scarcely a swell on its peaceful bosom.  No sail was in sight to add to the beauty of the scene, but steaming quietly down to Wilmington we saw the small steamer that plies between San Diego and San Francisco. We had a pleasant stroll along the beaches and made a visit to the old Santa Monica Mission before starting for home. FEBRUARY 14. -- With our two companions Velma <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:and I went this afternoon for another interesting drive in the open barouche, with a very good driver.  We started at one o'clock and drove through San Gabriel, an interesting little place about ten miles east of Los Angeles.  The Mission San Gabriel has some fine old Spanish relics.  This Mission was the fifth one established in California, founded in 1771, and was one of the most prosperous of the Franciscan establishments. We stopped at several ranches -- General Stoneman's, Colonel Keewen's, D. B. Wilson's and Shorb's -- a beautiful drive, overhung in many places by eucalyptus and other trees, to Pasadena, and then home again by way of East Los Angeles.</p><P>FEBRUARY 15. -- The weather is still perfect.  We went with our friends to the ice house this morning and saw how ice is manufactured in this warm climate. This evening we played cards with Carrie Cunningham and her friend, Miss Kitty Thompson, who afterwards sang for us.</p><P>FEBRUARY 17. -- Yesterday it was very rainy, so we stayed at home and entertained our friends -- the usual party, and, in addition, Carrie Cunningham's brother-in-law, Mr. Thompson.  It has been a windy and disagreeable day, but a most enjoyable one for us, for this afternoon Mr. Powers and Mr. Glass took us to call on the new prima donna, Miss Mamie Perry -- or Maria Perrini, as she is called in Italian.  She has just returned from Italy where she sang in grand opera, and she is now receiving many offers to sing in this country.  Miss Perry is a very beautiful girl, and most entertaining, as is also her sister Florence. Their father is prominent in business and social circles here.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:Mrs. Perry was most kind to us. There are four children, these two daughters, Fred and Eugene. Eugene<ANCHOR ID="n3-11">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: is a charming boy.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-11">From his obituary in a local paper I quote: "He was genial, unaffected, frank and possessed of an integrity beyond question.  His business associates testify to his great ability, application and geniality. His sweetness of disposition, combined with his business sagacity, made up a character as desirable as it is exceptional. His illness began some time ago. All that the love and the resources of his parents could do was done. Under the charge of those nearest and dearest to him the most celebrated physicians of the East were visited, but mortal power could not arrest the approach of the destroyer. The funeral services were held at St. Paul's Episcopal Church, Rev. Mr. Birdsall officiating.  The young man's popularity and the affection so widely felt for him, together with a desire to express sympathy with his bereaved parents, served to fill the church to overflowing with mourning friends."</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>Not long after my return to Massachusetts I learned of the death of this fine young fellow.  He had been educated entirely in the West, -- in Los Angeles and San Francisco, -- and had entered business life with the City Water Company of Los Angeles, and afterwards accepted a position with the Southern California Insurance Company.  He had been ill for some years and had consulted eminent specialists from various parts of the country, but to no avail. He had a particularly sweet disposition and endeared himself to a large circle of friends. He had also real business sagacity.</p><P>FEBRUARY 18. -- Chinese New Year's and a lively day here in Los Angeles. We went to Chinatown this afternoon with Rodney Powers and Albert Glass, and saw the Chinese fire off several strings of firecrackers, with a million firecrackers to each string, so we were told. We did not count them, but were quite ready to believe it after hearing the terrific noise.</p><P>Mrs. C. J. Ellis and Miss Kitty Thompson called today upon Velma. This evening I took Mr. Glass to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:the Turnverein to a complimentary concert to Miss Mamie Perry. Her voice is very charming and she is indeed an accomplished singer.  After the theatre we all had an oyster supper.<ANCHOR ID="n3-12">*</ANCHOR>
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030.sgm:<P>FEBRUARY 20. -- Mr. Waller and I drove out to Pasadena this afternoon and shot rabbits over a territory that was so dry that sheep were dying and rotting in the fields for want of water and food.  Signs were up on this land advertising it for sale at $8 an acre. We drove to Downey's ranch and over the burned district, and to Major Robert H. Fulton's orange grove of 2,800 trees.</p><P>FEBRUARY 22. -- Yesterday noon I gave a seven-course dinner at the Cosmopolitan Hotel to about a dozen friends in honor of Mr. Powers and Mr. Glass. Among the guests were Mr. Kent, Mr. and Mrs. Moore, Mr. Hammond, Mrs. Voorhis, Mrs. Glass (Albert's mother), Mrs. Lincoln and her little boy. In the afternoon Mr. Powers and Mr. Glass, with his mother, departed for San Francisco, on their way home to Salt Lake City. Mrs. Lincoln accompanied them as far as Lathrop. I was at the train to see them off, and there met Mr. Perry and returned with him to call on his daughter. She gave me some violets from her first concert in America last Saturday night, and her picture, and showed me some beautiful jewels which she had purchased in Europe.  Mr. Powers left in low spirits, as Velma did not encourage his suit.  I went out with Mrs. Voorhis this evening to see a fire.</p><P>Today is Washington's Birthday, but there has been little to mark it as a patriotic occasion; only a "parade" of about twenty-six soldiers.  Velma called on Mrs. Mansfield this morning, and I on Kitty Thompson, who sang for me and gave me some delicious oranges from her father's orchard of 1,000 trees.  This afternoon, Velma, Kitty Cunningham and I went for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:a long drive and stopped again at Judge Thompson's to call on his two daughters, Kitty and Mrs. Ellis.  In the evening Mr. Kent, Velma and I went to Mr. Woodworth's wedding in the Methodist Church.  The bride was a Miss Fox.</p><P>FEBRUARY 23. -- I spent the morning very pleasantly with Mamie Perry and Madame Marra, at Madame Marra's apartment.  In the afternoon Mamie and I went hunting and shot nine birds and two squirrels. One of the birds is so pretty that I am going to have it stuffed.<ANCHOR ID="n3-13">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: Mrs. Kent is expected to arrive here tomorrow to join her husband.  We still play whist or bid euchre almost every night with a group of friends, generally Mr. Kent, Mrs. Voorhis, Mr. and Mrs. Moore, Carrie Cunningham and her sister Mrs. Ellis, Mr. Hammond, etc.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-13">This bird is now, 1931, in a glass case in the Stetson Historical House, Centre Hanover, which I have given to the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities, as a memorial to my parents, Lloyd and Sarah Elizabeth Elms Briggs, and my sister, Harriette Stetson Briggs.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>MARCH 6. -- In order that I may keep up somewhat with my medical work we have come to live at Dr. Wise's, and I am assisting him with his patients.  We still see a great deal of our friends and exchange frequent visits with some of them, but my spare time is generally spent at the Perry's house on Boyle Heights. They are very hospitable and we have grown to be intimate friends.  Velma and I go there almost every evening to play cards and hear Mamie sing.  Yesterday, Sunday, we were specially invited to dinner, and we stayed on to tea and spent the evening.  They always have delightful music.  Among others whom <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:we have met at their house are Mr. Kays, Mr. M. White, Mr. Dalton, George Williamson, Mrs. Wise, Mrs. Pike, Miss Jenkins, Mr. Van Voorst, Mr. Herbert, Mr. Hiller, Mr. Congrieve, General and Mrs. Mansfield, Mr. Hollenbeck, Mr. Tompkinson, Mrs. and Miss Sacriste and Mrs. Chandler.  This evening Mrs. Perry and Mamie came to see us.  Mr. Hiller also spent the evening and we all played cards.</p><P>MARCH 7. -- This evening Velma and I took Mamie Perry to an opera concert at the Turnverein Hall.  Her mother was there, as well as Miss Hoyt, Mr. Hiller, Mr. Williamson and his mother, and Mrs. Mott. Signora Gemma Tiozzo and Signor Antinori were the leading soloists.  They sang in Italian, and we also had a duet by Madame Marra and Mr. Abernathy in English, and another by Madame Marra and Mr. Peachey.  The second part of the program was the second and fourth acts of "Il Trovatore,  which included Miss Ferner and Mr. Rees.</p><P>MARCH 9. -- Velma, Mr. Hiller and I went to the train to see Carrie Cunningham off for San Francisco. We have seen a great deal of her, and shall miss her very much.  She tells us that she has made about $25,000 lately in stocks, and has a good prospect of further profits.  This evening we went to a card party at the Perrys'.  There were two large tables at cards, and afterwards Mamie sang for us, divinely as usual.</p><P>MARCH 11. -- Last evening Mamie and I went to the Turnverein Hall to see the Lingards in "Stolen Kisses" and "Little Toddlekins."  I have just learned that our good friend Luke Kelly, proprietor of the Palace Hotel in Napa, died this morning.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RESIDENCE OF WILLIAM H. PERRY, ESQ., ON BOYLE HEIGHTS, LOS ANGELES, 1882</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<P>MARCH 12. -- It has rained almost every day lately, and we have been able to make no excursions out of town until today; but it was all the more lovely this morning after the rain.  We got up before six, and after an early breakfast we started off on the eighteen-mile drive to Santa Anita Canyon, in an open wagon with a good team of horses.  Our party consisted of Mamie and Fred Perry, Perry Parker, George Williamson, Mrs. Mott, Velma and myself.  Santa Anita Canyon is indeed a lovely spot.  We strolled through the woods and along a lovely stream, gathered mosses, and had a delicious lunch with our cloth spread on the grass near the sparkling water.  We hardly noticed that it was becoming a little cloudy until, on our way back, about six miles from home, it commenced to rain in torrents, and we got miserably wet and muddy in our open wagon, and were decidedly the worse for wear when we arrived at Mrs. Motts, where we spent the night.</p><P>MARCH 24. -- We got word this evening of the death of the poet Longfellow. He died in Cambridge at 3.15 P.M., aged seventy-five.  This comes specially nears home to me, for I remember meeting him often and hearing him read his poems at the Sunday afternoon musicales at Dr. Henry I. Bowditch's house (113 Boylston Street, old number, opposite Arlington Street, Boston), where I lived for some time while studying medicine with Dr. Bowditch.</p><P>APRIL 9. -- We have been having a great deal of rainy and foggy weather, with occasional pleasant days between.  Last Thursday we had another blizzard or sandstorm, which lasted all day. The air was so thick <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:that the mountains were quite invisible.  It rained all this morning. As it was Easter Sunday, Velma and I went to the Episcopal Church.  It was beautifully decorated -- there were 350 calla lilies and masses of red geraniums.  Mamie Perry sang Gounod's "Ave Maria."</p><P>After church, as it was still raining, I got a carriage and we drove Mrs. Perry, Mamie and Florence and Miss Hoyt home; we are to stay with them all night, as we often do. In the evening Mamie sang her favorite song, "Roberto," which invariably brings tears to the eyes of all the ladies present.  Velma plays the accompaniments for her songs.</p><P>APRIL 11. -- Velma, Mamie and I walked up to Mr. Kent's to get some orange blossoms, and this evening we took them to the Perrys', where we made them into a beautiful great cross for Mr. Lankershein's funeral. We worked at it until 12 o'clock.</p><P>APRIL 14. -- I worked at the Orphans' Home, both yesterday and today.  Mamie is giving a concert for the home tomorrow night, and she is training the orphans to sing.  Velma also helps to rehearse them. General William T. Sherman arrived this morning to attend the reunion of the Grand Army of the Republic.  This evening Mamie and I called upon General Sherman and his daughter, and we met General Poe and Adjutant General Morrill or Morrow.  We had a very delightful evening, listening to General Sherman's reminiscences, especially about his famous "March to the Sea." The conversation was interrupted only once, by the arrival of a group of Grand Army men, who marched up to the house and demanded that he come <illus entity="a030-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WILLIAM H. PERRY, ESQ., LOS ANGELES, 1882</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MAMIE B. PERRY, LOS ANGELES, CAL.</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>out and speak to them; so he went to the balcony and delivered a short address.</p><P>APRIL 17. -- Mamie gave her concert on the 15th and sang so beautifully that the audience demanded that it be repeated this evening.  General Sherman and his party attended this second performance, and the flowers sent to her were magnificent.</p><P>APRIL 18. -- Velma, Mamie and I spent the afternoon with General Sherman and his daughter, and found him as interesting as ever.  When we left he gave me a pencil that he had carried for a long time, as a souvenir of our meeting.</p><P>APRIL 19. -- Velma and I are leaving here tomorrow, and this evening Mrs. W. H. Perry gave a farewell dinner for us, and we spent the evening at their house. All of the Perrys were there, as well as Mr. Herbert, Mr. Van Voorst, Mrs. Wise, Mr. Kays, Mrs. Mott and Mr. Hiller.</p><P>APRIL 20. -- We left Los Angeles at 8.45 this morning. There was quite a gathering of our friends at the train to see us off, including Messrs. Kent, Herbert and Van Voorst, Miss Hoyt, Mrs. Wise and Mamie Perry.  We were indeed sorry to leave such good friends, and the delightful hospitality of Los Angeles. Soon after our train passed Walters, a station on the Southern Pacific Railroad, a terrific sandstorm struck us; double windows and tightly closed doors failed to keep out the dust, and by the time that we had crossed the line into Arizona, at Yuma (where we stopped for dinner at seven o'clock), it blew so violently that we could not see ten feet from the car. The sand covered everything in the car, and even penetrated our clothing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INDIANS AT NEEDLES, CAL., 1882</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INDIANS NEAR NEEDLES, CAL., 1882</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>From here on we had some rather exciting and interesting experiences, due to the Apache War, which was then raging, about which I have decided to write in a later volume, which shall be about my experiences in Arizona, New Mexico and Mexico, confining this volume to my early experiences in California and to some of my subsequent visits to that delightful State.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV</HEAD>
030.sgm:<p>A TRIP TO THE WORLD's COLUMBIAN EXPOSITION, CHICAGO, ILL., 1893</p> <P> year 1893 was an eventful one. On January 15 Boston Harbor was frozen over so that people walked from Quincy Point to East Boston on the ice.  The Charles River was the scene of all kinds of ice sports -- hundreds of people were skating, ice boats were in evidence, and fires were lighted on the ice in the evening up to February 15.  This was before soft coal and oil made the ice filthy and dangerous.</p><P>Another event of that year which remains in my memory is that Princess Kaiulani of Hawaii visited Boston in state.  She held a reception at the Hotel Brunswick on March 6, to which I took little Mary Tudor, daughter of Henry Dubois Tudor, who was then only three or four years old.  The Princess gave her a kiss and ordered an ice for her, which pleased her very much.</p><P>This was the year of the World's Fair, and on May 30 I left Boston for Chicago to visit the Exposition in a special car, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Charles Hubbard, Mrs. E. P. Bowditch, Mr. and Mrs. Livingston Cushing, Bishop and Mrs. William Lawrence and their two daughters, Mr. and Mrs. William Tudor, Mr. and Mrs. J. Montgomery Sears, Miss Crowninshield and others.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>On our way we stopped at Niagara Falls long enough to visit the different points of interest, including a drive to the Burning Spring, Cedar Island, Clark's Hill Islands, Goat Island, Horseshoe Falls, American Falls, the Whirlpool Rapids and Table Rock, and a trip under the Falls.  We did not have <illus entity="a030-0048" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
030.sgm:time to go to the Indian Village, which was seven miles distant.</p><P>We arrived in Chicago the next day at 10.30 P.M., and immediately went to our rooms, which had been reserved for us at the Raymond and Whitcomb Grand Hotel, situated on 59th Street, between Madison and Washington avenues, and facing the Midway Plaisance of the World's Fair grounds.</p><P>The week we spent on the grounds of this first wonderful exposition was most interesting.  Only two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:events interrupted the pleasure of our stay, -- Bishop Lawrence's daughter, who afterwards married Bishop Slattery, was taken with mumps, and required my attention off and on for several days; and two days before we left my own hay fever, or rose cold, began, making the journey home rather uncomfortable for me.</p><P>I have kept but very few notes of this eventful week. We visited, of course, all the exhibitions of any interest to us, -- the buildings of the different States, the United States government buildings, of which the Horticultural, Mining and Manufacturers' Buildings were the most interesting.  Then there were the buildings erected by the different countries who had joined in this exposition, with exhibitions of their products and handicrafts, their art and their amusements and folk dances, such as we saw on ù"The Streets of Cairo" (then new in this country and very startling) or in the Indian and African villages.</p><P>In the evenings there were electrical displays from a gondola on the lagoon in the center of the fine architectural setting, which converted the place into a veritable fairyland, and there were a great many entertainments and displays of which I remember best a military tournament at "Tattersall's," which included "trooping the colors," an exhibition of fencing with the lance against the sword by the Fifth Irish Lancers; a combined attack on fortified positions, including the Balaklava Melee; exhibitions of skill by the Royal Horse Artillery;  Highland dancing by the Black Watch; and firing exercises by the Grenadier Guards; tent pegging, by officers of the Royal Irish Lancers; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:musical rides by the First Life Guards; and, at the end, a realistic representation of the defence of Rorkes Drift.</p><P>The original defence was one of the most brilliant exploits in the British military service.  Sir Bartle Frere, High Commissioner and Governor of Cape Colony at the time of the Zulu War, intimated to the King of the Zulus that if he did not accede to certain requests made by the British government within twenty-four hours war would be declared.  The Zulu King refused, and war was declared.  General Lord Chelmsford, in command of the British troops, crossed from Natal into Zululand with his army, and when he crossed Rorkes Drift he left behind a very small force under command of Captain Chard.  The next morning General Chelmsford learned through his scouts that the whole of the Zulu Army, numbering over 20,000 men, had bivouacked only twenty miles away. He made a strong reconnoissance of 1,000 men, under the command of Major Dartnell, to draw on the Zulu Army, and on the following day he marched with all his forces to attack them in person.  But in the evening the Zulus made a countermarch.</p><P>How the British were overwhelmed by numbers, and how nobly they fought and died to a man is a matter of history. They retired fighting, step by step, until they were ultimately killed, with their colors wrapped around them, at Fugitives' Drift.  At this place the rocket battery was entirely annihilated; here Colonel Dunford and Major Shepstone were found dead, side by side, and every officer of the Twenty-fourth was found dead, surrounded by his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:men.  Captain Chard made up his mind at once that he would not retire, but would defend Rorkes Drift to the end.  He had no time to make a fort, and the only defence available was to throw up as quickly as possible some earthworks, -- bags filled with maize and biscuit tins.  At four o'clock the first Zulus were sighted, and at about six o'clock 6,000 men attacked Rorkes Drift.  It was a terrible conflict, and they fought until four o'clock in the morning, leaving 1,200 men dead around Rorkes Drift.</p><P>Captains Chard, Dalton, Broadhead and others received the Victoria Cross for their gallant conduct and brilliant defence of Rorkes Drift, a victory which prevented the Zulus from crossing the river and carrying everything before them.  All these events were depicted true to life.</p><P>Of all the exhibits, one of the best patronized was the historical exhibit of Wells, Fargo &amp; Co.  In this exhibit was a representation of the old office, express and bank of the Wells, Fargo &amp; Co., at the northwest corner of Montgomery and California streets, San Francisco. The stones of this building were prepared and brought from China, each stone being marked with Chinese characters indicating its proper position. They had a very interesting exhibit of the souvenirs of fights with highwaymen and desperadoes in the West during the fourteen years from 1870 to 1884, years in which the company lost, in 1,313 stage robberies, nearly a million dollars.  In these robberies and other attempted robberies of stages and trains, two of the company's guards, four stage drivers and seven horses were killed, and there were many wounded; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:fourteen horses were stolen.  On the other side, sixteen stage robbers were killed and seven were hanged by citizens.  There were also souvenirs of the robberies since 1884, such as a treasure box, a memento of the attack on the Reading (California) and Altura Stage in 1892, when the robbers appeared, fired into the stage, and killed the driver and a woman passenger.  Another broken treasure box is a relic of the Shasta (California) stage robbery of May 14, 1892, by the Ruggles Brothers.</p><P>One point of interest which was much patronized at the Columbian Exposition was the Distillery Exhibit, which was located near a representation of the Cliff Dwellers at the back of the Anthropological Building.  This building, by the way, was 415 feet long by 255 feet deep, which gives one some idea of the magnitude of that exhibit.</p><P>On June 8 we left Chicago, and I arrived at my residence at 37 Brimmer Street, Boston, the morning of the 9th, at seven o'clock.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V</HEAD>
030.sgm:<p>A TRIP TO CALIFORNIA IN 1895, ALONG THE ROUTE OF THE CANADIAN PACIFIC VANCOUVER -- SEATTLE -- PORTLAND HOME BY WAY OF THE BRIGHAM YOUNG TRAIL</p><P>On July 15, 1895, I left Boston in company with Walter Channing, Jr., a boy in whom at that time I was much interested, and we arrived in Montreal at 8.15 the next morning. We found time to drive about the city and saw many of the principal points of interest before our train on the Canadian Pacific left for the Great West, at 9.50 A.M.</p><P>We reached Ottawa at noon and continued our journey along the Ottawa River through farming country most of the day. The next day, July 17, our road lay through a wild country abounding in streams and lakes, great and small, -- a country which will some day be a veritable sportsman's paradise.  Many of these waters have never been fished, but the country to the north of Lake Superior is being developed by the railroad company, which has made trails up several of the rivers.  It was nearly dark when we passed the most famous of all these streams, the Nepigon, which connects Lake Nepigon with Lake Superior.  Nepigon is not only well known to fishermen, but it is celebrated for its great natural beauty. <illus entity="a030-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA, 1895</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MAIN STREET, WINNIPEG, 1895</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>Large game is said to be plentiful in this country. We found the black flies and mosquitoes rather troublesome, even in the train.  We reached the shore of Lake Superior at Heron Bay before three o'clock the next day and had the great lake in sight nearly all the afternoon and evening until we reached Fort William at half past ten. This town, 998 miles from Montreal, has a population of 3,000 and is beautifully situated on Thunder Bay, where the Canadian Pacific Steamship line from the Great Lakes joins the railway. This port was formerly a very important post of the Hudson Bay Trading Company.  The fur house of the old fort is now used as an engine house for the great coal docks, and some of the largest grain elevators in the world overshadow all. Here we changed our watches to central time, and left at 22 o'clock (10 P.M. by my corrected watch).  From Fort William to Winnipeg we passed through a wild, broken region, over many rivers and by picturesque lakes, in many of which, I am told, very good fishing is to be found. The next town of any consequence after Fort William was Rat Portage, population 4,500, which is situated at the principal outlet of the Lake of the Woods, the largest body of water touched by this railroad between Lake Superior and the Pacific.  It is known as the Saratoga of the West, being a favorite resort for sportsmen and pleasure seekers.  This beautiful lake is studded with islands, and its waters break through a narrow place here and fall into the Winnipeg River over most picturesque cascades.  At Rat Portage I saw two pieces of sawn timber, each measuring a yard square, the entire seventy feet of their length.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>We arrived at Winnipeg at 4.30 P.M. on July 18. As our train was not due to leave until six o'clock, we drove about this typical western town with its muddy streets, although some had wooden pavements. The drainage is poor and the water hardly drinkable. We visited the Hudson Bay Trading Post, which was established in 1670, and saw all the other points of interest, including the free museum of W. F. White, who claims to have the only curiosity shop in the Northwest.  Here we saw buffalo horns, Indian curiosities, bead work, rugs and mats, agates, amethysts and mineral specimens, chairs made of buffalo horns, Indian war clubs, tom-toms, stone pipes, peace pipes, horn cups, tomahawks, medicine charms and mounted heads of buffalo, elk, moose, caribou, Rocky Mountain sheep, antelope and deer.</p><P>The next day we were passing through a rolling prairie country where we saw thousands of cattle grazing. The only place where we stopped long enough to investigate was at Moose Jaw in the Province of Assinnibora.  Our train pulled up at an excellent depot hotel where they had clean beds and a very good table.  Lounging about the town and the railway station were members of the great Indian Cree Nation, clad in blankets, all with painted faces and some with wrists and arms also painted. The population of Moose Jaw is 1,000 and the altitude 1,725 feet.  Its name is an abbreviation, the real Indian name, literally translated, means "the creek where the white man mended the cart with a moose jaw bone." This is a good place to shoot ducks and geese in the fall.</p><P>Beyond Moose Jaw the line steadily rises and the country becomes treeless.  Beyond Old Wives Lakes <illus entity="a030-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CREE INDIAN FAMILY AND TRAVOIS, CALGARY, 1895</p></CAPTION></ILLUS>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BOW RIVER AND TWIN PEAKS, BANFF, 1895</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:the prairie was scattered with old buffalo trails along which the whitened bones were still to be seen.  At some stations piles of these bones had been gathered and were awaiting shipment to be converted into fertilizer.  Beyond Chaplin is Rush Lake, a favorite resort for waterfowl; ducks, geese, swans and pelicans congregate here at times in myriads.  Still rising, we reached Medicine Hat, at a height of 2,150 feet, at which place we stopped for water, coal, etc.  An important station of the mounted police has been established here, and gold mining is carried on not far away.  Near Morley, at an altitude of 4,000 feet, there were great herds of horses in the valleys, thousands of cattle on the terraces, and immense flocks of sheep on the hilltops.</p><P>We arrived at Banff on the morning of July 20 at 6.15, and a stage carried us for a mile and a half to Banff Hot Springs, where for the first time I felt relief from the hay fever from which I had suffered most of the way out.  The springs are natural hot sulphur water combined with other chemical ingredients, including calcium, magnesium and sodium, according to the test made by Professor Osler of Philadelphia in 1886.  The Banff Springs Hotel is open from May 15 to October 1.  Though the waters of Banff are specially recommended for rheumatic patients, the place is mainly a pleasure resort, being situated in the Canadian National Park at an elevation of 4,500 feet, and surrounded in every direction by towering snowcapped mountains, which rise above it to a height of from 7,000 to nearly 10,000 feet, -- more mountains than one can count, stretching as far as the eye can reach in chaotic disorder.  From our hotel we had a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:wonderful view of these and of Bow Valley, with its rambling tributaries.  Cascade Mountain, to the north of us, is 9,800 feet high, and Peachee, to the east, is 9,585.  Rundle Mountain, which lies to the right, across the Spray River, rises to an altitude of 9,788 feet.  These are not isolated peaks, only specimens of hundreds of such giants all about us in that region which was evidently abounding in game of all sorts. We saw wild sheep and mountain goats on the neighboring heights. The place is a great center for canoeing, walking, driving and mountain climbing.  We went canoeing on the morning of our arrival and fished in the Bow River and Vermilion Lake.  In the afternoon we went to Sun Dance Canyon and the Cascade.  It is very, very beautiful in every direction from Banff, and we were sorry we could not remain longer.</p><P>We left Banff early on the morning of July 21, during a slight flurry of snow, and traveled all day through the mountains.  The scenery was too beautiful to describe.  We passed the summit station of the Rocky Mountains at Stephen, where the railway reaches an altitude of 5,296 feet.  On the shoulder of Mt. Stephen we saw, almost directly overhead, a shining green glacier, 800 feet in thickness, which was slowly pressing forward over a vertical cliff of great height.  Selkirk, 4,300 feet high, is the summit station of the Selkirk Range.  Towards the west is Rose Peak, a massive, symmetrical mountain, carrying an immense glacier on its eastern slope.  Some way back at Donald I got my first view of the Columbia River, and was greatly impressed by it.  I had always <illus entity="a030-0053" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BLACKFOOT INDIAN CAMP NEAR GLEICHEN, 1895</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0054" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RAILROAD LOOP IN THE SELKIRKS, SHOWING FOUR TRACKS, 1895</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>wanted to see this river, for it is named for the ship which first discovered it, built by my great-great-grandfather, James Briggs, on the North River at Scituate, Massachusetts.<ANCHOR ID="n5-11">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: At the Glacier House Station we saw the Great Glacier one and one-half miles away, rising above to an abrupt naked pyramid named "Sir Donald Smith," after one of the promoters of the Canadian Pacific Railroad.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-11">See "History of Shipbuilding on  the  North River, Massachusetts," L. Vernon Briggs.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>The next morning, July 22, our route lay along the banks of the Frazier River. We arrived at Vancouver at 1, or 13, o'clock, and took rooms at the Hotel Vancouver.  Mr. John Campbell, a barrister with whom I had become acquainted on the train, was kind enough to put me up at the Vancouver Club, and in the afternoon he took me for a beautiful drive through the town and Stanley Park.  I found him a delightful companion.  Vancouver has a population of 20,000; its climate is mild.  It is sheltered on the north by the mountains of the Coast Range, and from the ocean by the highlands of Vancouver Island.  In fact, it is protected from rough weather on every side, while enjoying the sea breezes from the Straits of Georgia, whose quiet waters bound the city on two sides. Prior to 1886, on the site of the present city were only a few wooden buildings in the midst of a dense forest; and in July, 1886, a fire swept away every house save one, and most of the forest.  In the nine years since then a beautiful city has sprung up, with hotels, churches and schools, good drainage and water supply.  Many buildings are of brick and granite, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:lighted both by gas and electricity, and the city has expensive wharves and warehouses.</p><P>We departed from Vancouver at 9 A.M. on July 23, and were met at Whatcom, Washington, by my old friend, David D. Fagan, who was so often my companion, during my early days in California, as I have related in this book.  He and his wife, whom I had never met before, invited me to dinner and then drove me to Fairhaven.  It was a great pleasure to meet him again.  He was just the same, perhaps he had a few gray hairs, but I noticed no other change.  We continued our journey, and in the afternoon at five o'clock we arrived at Seattle, where we spent the night at the Rainier Grand Hotel.  The next day, July 24, we left Seattle at 7.10 A.M. and reached Tacoma in little over an hour.  Here we had time to drive about the city and enjoy the views, especially that of Mt. Rainier.  Leaving Tacoma at 2 P.M. our train passed through beautiful forests and many hop fields; then we skirted Puget Sound and arrived at Portland, Ore., at 8.45 P.M. Here we found rooms ready for us at the Hotel Portland, where we spent the night and the following day.  There are lovely drives about the city, which we enjoyed, with magnificent views of Mt. Hood.  We left at 9 P.M. on the 25th and arrived at San Francisco at 1  P.M., July 27, where we had engaged rooms at the Grand Hotel, and I again met my old friend S. F. Thorn, and my very dear friend Obadiah Rich.</p><P>One of my objects in coming to San Francisco was to look into the history of a nurse who had tried to blackmail one of my patients.  I employed Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:Curtin, the Pinkerton detective who had run down and captured Bidwell of Philadelphia, the forger (who robbed the Bank of England of $1,000,000), after Scotland Yard and all the other detective agencies had failed to apprehend him.</p><P>My spare time was occupied in visiting Chinatown with Martin Teehaney, a special officer, as my guide, buying pretty Chinese and Japanese things for my friends from Wing Fat &amp; Co. and Sing Fat &amp; Co., at 219 and 614 Dupont Street, respectively, and from Fung Hai &amp; Co., at 715 Dupont Street; and most of all I enjoyed listening to Captain Curtin's tales of his many thrilling experiences in the pursuit and capture of criminals.  After much work by Captain Curtin in San Francisco and many consultations there with lawyers and others the object of my visit was accomplished.  Captain Curtin later completed his observations for me on this case in Portland, Oregon. When I left San Francisco he gave me a gold nugget which he had himself found in the early days of gold mining in California, when he was placer mining.  I had this nugget made into a scarf pin and wore it for a long time, until, one day, when I was shooting ducks in the marshes near Orleans, Massachusetts, I lost it, and no amount of searching ever revealed its whereabouts.</p><P>We left San Francisco at 6.06 on the evening of August 2, and had a terribly hot and dusty journey for the next few days.  At Cisco, Utah, although the elevation is 4,600 feet, the thermometer stood at 103&deg; in the shade. We stopped at Salt Lake City on August 4. My journal says, "It has an elevation of 4,300 feet, is situated in the Salt Lake and Jordan Valleys, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:was founded in 1847 by Brigham Young.  It has the largest pavilion in the world, and the buildings are mostly of the Moorish type." Leaving Salt Lake, we passed through the Grand Canyon and saw Leadville by moonlight.</p><P>On August 5 we awoke in time to see Colorado Springs and Pikes Peak, and passed through Denver at 11 A.M.  The afternoon we spent crossing prairies covered with wild flowers of many colors, but pink was the prevailing color, and again for hundreds of miles our track lay through sunflowers which were sown by Brigham Young when he trekked west to Salt Lake in the spring of 1847 -- nearly fifty years ago -- that they might grow up and mark the route for his return by the same trail the following year.  These sunflowers had died out on many parts of his trail, but were still growing luxuriantly for stretches of many miles, especially in western Nebraska.  We saw flights of hundreds of doves through all that country.</p><P>We reached Chicago at 6.45 on the morning of August 7, changed cars, and continued our journey that afternoon at three, by way of Montreal, where, while waiting in the station, I weighed, and found I tipped the scales at 151 pounds.  We reached Boston on the evening of August 9, 1895.</p><illus entity="a030-0055" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BLACKFOOT INDIAN, BRITISH COLUMBIA, 1895</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0056" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CREE INDIAN AT MEDICINE HAT, 1895</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0057" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MISS VELMA BRIGGS RIDING A CAMEL, WORLD'S FAIR, ST. LOUIS, 1904</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0058" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MISS VELMA BRIGGS DISMOUNTING FROM A CAMEL, WORLD'S FAIR, ST. LOUIS, 1904</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
030.sgm:<p>WORLD'S FAIR, ST. LOUIS, 1904 A VISIT To THE YELLOWSTONE PARK</p><P>On July 23, 1904, my sister, Velma Briggs, and I left Boston for the St. Louis Exposition, and arrived at Hotel Jefferson, St. Louis, at 5 P.M. the following day. In the evening we rode out to the King's Highway to see the residential part of the city, where there were many fine but very modern residences.</p><P>The next two or three days we spent on the Exposition Grounds, visiting the buildings of the different States, the United States government and of the different nations, including the Mexican, Dutch, Swedish, Austrian and Ceylon buildings; also the Irish village, and the usual "Streets of Cairo," etc., so familiar to every visitor at these expositions. The buildings covered 1,200 acres, and we were only too glad to avail ourselves of the tram car lines which wended their way in and out through these different exhibits. As in the Chicago Exposition, there was one gondola which gave electrical illuminations every evening on a lagoon, and many other gondolas with real gondoliers from Venice on other lagoons. Each evening we hired one of these gondoliers and were fortunate in having a full moon, which, with the singing of our gondolier, added to the charm of our surroundings.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>A very interesting exhibit was the Igorot village which occupied six acres of the most picturesque part of the Philippine Reservation. These 114 natives, from three tribes, -- the Bontogs, the Suyocs and the Tinguianese, -- lived in nipa huts built by their own hands. They are among the most conspicuous races of northern Luzon; their hair is straight and black, their chests strong, muscles well developed.  The women are generally well formed, erect and graceful; their clothing consists of a woven breech clout of gaudy color for the men, and not much more for the women.  There is much tatooing, especially on their breasts, which tells of their head-hunting raids, and some wore strung around their necks the red beak of a bird, signifying that the wearer has taken at least twenty heads. Headhunting among the Bontog Igorots is not only a means of self-defence, but a pastime. After a member of the pueblo has taken home a human head, a month is given to celebration.  All Igorot men eat dogs.  It is a tribal dish, and twenty dogs were furnished these men each week by the United States government. We watched them preparing and cooking the dogs, as well as eating them.  The women are not allowed to eat dogs flesh because the Igorots say they do not care for their women to fight.  These natives wear many bracelets and armlets of beads, and are fond of riding horses.  We saw them in all their different activities, including the feast dance and many other dances; and at their games, including a curious game with a ball, which they threw about.</p><P>I again visited St. Louis in 1910 to read a paper before the meeting of the American Medical Association, <illus entity="a030-0059" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE IGOROT PREPARING AND COOKING A DOG FOR THEIR DAILY MEAL AT THE WORLD'S FAIR, ST. LOUIS, 1904</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:and was struck with the tremendous progress made in the building up of the city, -- its art museums and public parks, its hospitals, residences and public buildings.</p><P>We left St. Louis on the morning of July 27, and by invitation of Mrs. Mary Morton Kehew of Boston (who had been a valued friend and associate in my work as Treasurer of the Tyler Street Day Nursery, as Director of the New England Hospital for Women and Children, and as President of the Ward XVI Associated Charities, and many other charitable activities in and near Boston), my sister and I made an excursion to the Yellowstone Park.  Mrs. Kehew was founder of the Women's Educational and Industrial Union, and probably did more for the welfare of Boston than any other woman of her day or since.  It was a delight to work with her and for her; and as I had been doing some very strenuous work for some months before I left Boston, in connection with projects in which she was interested, she insisted upon my extending the vacation which I felt I must take, and suggested the Yellowstone.</p><P>We reached Livingstone, Montana, on July 29, in time for lunch, after which we were given time enough to walk about the town.  We found an interesting curiosity shop, with all sorts of raw furs and skins, game heads and live game animals.  The proprietor, W. F. Sheard, claimed to have the largest stock of hunters' and trappers' outfits in the United States. From Livingstone we had a short ride of fifty-four miles through the valley of the Yellowstone, with its gorgeous canyons and its precipitous cliffs, and along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:the windings of the Yellowstone River to a unique little station at Gardiner, which we reached about five o'clock.  Here we climbed on top of a commodious gaily-colored coach, drawn by six prancing horses, matched teams of black, gray and sorrel.  There was a rise of more than a thousand feet in the five-mile drive up the canyon, past strange formations called "pinnacles," like great cone-shaped monuments, to the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, where we spent the night.</p><P>Near the hotel we saw the very interesting and beautiful formations, -- Jupiter Terrace, a white, seemingly frozen cascade of crystals, formed by waters flowing from the Mammoth Hot Springs above; Minerva Terrace, Pulpit Terrace, Cleopatra, Hymen and Angel Terraces. The hot waters, heavily charged with lime, have built up tier upon tier of these white terraces, which the alg&aelig;-laden waters color with faint tints of red, yellow, blue and pink.  In the terraces are basins elaborately carved and fretted, which, when their springs run dry, merge into the great hills of white formation, while new basins form upon their edges.  Great trees are engulfed in these terraces, and not far below these heavenly spots we peered into the blackness and breathed the sulphur vapor-laden air of the Devil's Kitchen! -The view from the Mammoth Hot Springs is very striking: the steaming, tinted terraces and Fort Yellowstone near by; the long, palisaded escarpment of Mt. Evarts to the east; Bunsen Peak and the Gardiner Canyon, the distant elevations of the Mt. Washburn group, to the south; the rugged slopes of Terrace Mountain to the west;  and the gleaming <illus entity="a030-0060" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MISS VELMA BRIGGS RESTING ON AN ELEPHANT AT THE WORLD'S FAIR, ST. LOUIS, 1904</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</ILLUS></P><illus entity="a030-0061" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MISS VELMA BRIGGS FEEDING AN ELEPHANT AT THE WORLD'S FAIR, ST. LOUIS, 1904</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0062" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DRIVING INTO THE YELLOWSTONE, 1904</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>peaks of the Snowy Range to be seen in the distance to the north.</p><P>We could have spent days exploring the wonders in this neighborhood, but early the next morning we were off again, in a long, low, yellow coach, drawn by four horses, on our trip through the Park.  At noon we reached the Norris Basin.  On the way we passed Silver Gate, Hoodoo Rocks and Golden Gate, and came out into grassy valleys with thick groves of trees, little lakes and cold mountain brooks.  Swan Lake was lovely, and we passed the famous Apollinaris Spring, and then came to Obsidian Cliff, a sort of mountain of glass forged in Nature's furnace, and Roaring Mountain, which emitted a noise as if from a gigantic cauldron of boiling water.  The Norris Geyser Basin lies in a desolate, naked plain, in startling contrast to the beauty and color of other parts of the Park which we had seen.  Here we stopped for lunch and saw our first boiling geysers, -- the Constant Geyser, which sends up water and steam in small clouds every half minute; the Black Growler, blowing off steam; the Mud Geyser; and a beautiful spring called Emerald Pool.  From the veranda of the hotel we could see a hundred little clouds of rising vapor, which looked as if they might come from so many underground factories.</p><P>Leaving Norris, our route lay over the lovely Gibbon Meadows and turned into Gibbon Canyon, following the rushing, green river through the wild, craggy defile, overhung by high walls and forests, twisting and winding through the heart of the mountainous region.  Coming to a turn in the river we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:again hear a loud boiling noise, and the steam appears to come from directly under the road, and a few feet farther on we see the beautiful Beryl Spring, one of the finest in the Park, whose madly boiling waters cannot hide the wonderful coloring.  After a forty-mile drive we reached the Fountain Hotel, prettily situated among trees in the Lower Basin, where we stopped for the night. The hotel stands on a little knoll, and beyond the trees surrounding the hotel is a waste of steaming formation, geysers, lakes and pools, including the Smaller Fountain Geyser, a very beautiful one.  The famous Great Fountain Geyser is two miles away.  Here we saw, also, the Paint Pots, which were huge cauldrons of boiling, mushy clay into which we gazed at pure colors -- pale blue, terra cotta, drab, pink, cream -- in wonderful gradations and great delicacy.  We heard the pop, pop, popping of this gruesome mass, as the steam puffs burst in small, symmetric cones.  Before retiring for the night we went into the woods, where we saw wild deer and bears prowling about waiting for scraps to be thrown from the hotel kitchen.</p><P>We started off again early the next morning, July 31, for the Upper Basin.  From Hygeia Spring, at the junction of Firehole River and Nez Perce Creek, the northern end of Lower Geyser Basin to Old Faithful Geyser, at the southern extremity of Upper Geyser Basin, is only nine miles in a straight line, but between these two points are the greatest phenomena of the geyser sort in the world.  We visited some seventy geysers in the course of the day, -- geysers, geyserettes, boiling springs, hot cones, hot springs, formations <illus entity="a030-0063" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CONSTANT GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE, 1904</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0064" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS HOTEL AND MOUNT EVERTS, YELLOWSTONE, 1904</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0065" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TYPICAL GROUP OF TOURISTS WATCHING OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>of many sorts; there is no end to them, and each seems more marvelous than the last.</p><P>At the Midway Basin, only a few miles beyond the Fountain Hotel, is the mightiest geyser in the world, -- the Excelsior.  But this geyser was not in action. It erupts at intervals of many years, but is said to be a most magnificent sight, -- "a water demon of terror and awful majesty."  Among the many geysers we saw in the Upper Basin, Old Faithful, which may be counted upon to erupt once an hour, is the most interesting of them all.  It is just by chance that one sees the other large geysers erupt, as they are irregular, but there are always plenty of them in action.  In the Upper Basin are the Giant and Giantess, the Castle and Grotto, the Beehive, the Splendid and the Grand. I photographed a number of them.  There are also the Black Sand Basin, the Emerald Pool and countless other beautiful pools and lakes, in all the colors of the rainbow.  Here is the Baby Cub Geyser, with frequent infantile splutterings, while the great Giant roars at intervals of days, causing the air to vibrate and the earth to quake as he throws aloft a mass of water and steam to a height of 250 feet.  The day was indeed full of marvels, but I got one of the greatest thrills in taking a photograph of a wild bear in a tree!</p><P>After a good night's rest we started again on a forty-mile drive to Yellowstone Lake, a very beautiful road which twice crosses the Continental Divide at the top of which is Two-Ocean Lake, whose waters lie at an altitude of 8,350 feet above sea level and flow to the east and south toward the Gulf of Mexico <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:and to the west to the Pacific Ocean. We stopped on the West Bay of Yellowstone Lake, called the Thumb of the lake, from which we had a fine view far across the waters of the lake to the great mountains beyond. We could plainly see the "Sleeping Giant," a wonderful likeness of an immense figure of a man in repose, formed by the outline of the hills against the sky. Arriving at the Lake Hotel we had a late lunch, after which I went fly-fishing in the Yellowstone Lake and caught twenty lake and silver trout, weighing thirty-five pounds, in less than two hours!  The lake is a beautiful sheet of water, averaging over fifteen miles in diameter, at an altitude of 7,788 feet -- almost a mile and a half above sea level.  The air is wonderfully rare and bracing. Here, too, bears -- brown, black and silver tip -- are regular boarders at the kitchen door of the hotel, though we saw fewer than at the Fountain.</p><P>On the morning of August 2 we were off again, but traveled only seventeen miles that day, to the Canyon Hotel.  There were many points of interest on the way; the road was a good one which followed closely the left bank of the Yellowstone River.  The scenery was glorious all the way.  First we passed Mud Volcano, which gave us a somewhat new feature of this land of marvels.  We should have liked to stop for a long time in Hayden Valley, which is a beautiful park in itself, and especially interesting as the winter resort of the wild animals of the country, -- buffalo, elk, deer, etc., which come here in great numbers.  This valley was named for Dr. Hayden, one of the original explorers of this neighborhood for the United States <illus entity="a030-0066" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PAINT POTS GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</ILLUS></P><illus entity="a030-0067" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>EXCELSIOR GEYSERS, YELLOWSTONE</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0068" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>YELLOWSTONE GREAT FALLS</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>government, who first made the suggestion that it should be made a national park.  But the wonders of the country were known to mountaineers, trappers, etc., from the time of Colter, in 1810, long before Dr. Hayden's day -- in the early seventies.  As early as August 13, 1842, the "Wasp," a Mormon newspaper published at Nauvoo, Illinois (before the Mormons had settled in Utah), contained a fine description of a visit to the Geysers made in 1833 by an unknown gentleman.</p><P>We reached the Canyon Hotel before noon, and from there we visited the most beautiful part of the Park.  After lunch, on horseback, we descended the long slope to see the far-famed gorge.  The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, excavated out of a series of volcanic rocks by the flow of the river itself, is twenty-four miles long.  It ranges in height from 600 or 700 feet to 1,200 feet. At the bottom of the gorge it is 50 narrow that the river has hardly room to pass, and it tears along so madly that one may well imagine how the canyon was made.  In most places the sides are very flaring, so that the width at the summit is many hundreds of feet.  At the head of the Canyon are the Great Falls, 308 feet high, a most magnificent spectacle, and only a quarter of a mile further back, around a turn of the river, we came upon the Lower Falls, 109 feet in height -- very different but equally beautiful.  The views from Lookout Point can never be forgotten.  As we came out of the trees on the brink of the gorge we were dazzled by the sudden change from the shadow to the glare of light and color in the strong sunlight. We stood silent, overcome with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:awe at the magnificence.  Even Moran's paintings, which are well known, can give but a suggestion of this blazing glory. The Grand Canyon Hotel has the finest location in the Park, high on a hill, some hundreds of feet above the brink of the Canyon.  It can be seen from the road eight miles away, and the views from the veranda were magnificent.  Here we spent the night and were sorry to leave again at nine the next morning, August 3, on our return trip to the Mammoth Springs, another drive of forty miles, following the Upper Gibbon River much of the way, and pausing to see the lovely Virginia Cascade.  We completed the round of the Park at Norris, where we stopped again for luncheon, and then continued our journey over the same road on which we had started out, back to the Mammoth Hotel, where we completed our one hundred and fifty mile coaching trip through this wonderful and beautiful country.  Here we had dinner, and at 7.15 we left again in the big coach for Gardiner, where we boarded our train for Livingstone.  The next day's journey across the hot and dusty plains of Montana and North Dakota to St. Paul was a great contrast to our beautiful week in the Yellowstone.</p><P>We reached St. Paul at 2.20 and visited Minneapolis and the Minnehaha Falls that afternoon, and saw the Park and the Zoo before proceeding on our journey.  St. Paul is a very fine city and should some day be one of the most beautiful in the United States, if it is properly developed and not spoiled by commerce. It is built on many hills, which afford a very lovely landscape with views of the Mississippi River winding <illus entity="a030-69" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GIANT GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0070" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BUFFALO IN YELLOWSTONE PARK</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0071" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A FAMILIAR SCENE IN THE YELLOWSTONE</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>through the city between its white sandstone bluffs. Minneapolis, on the other side of the river, is a newer city, and is much better laid out, with broad streets and many fine parks.  The river views here are marred by great flour and saw mills.</p><P>At nine the next morning we reached Chicago and paused there for several days which we spent very pleasantly, in spite of the summer heat, seeing much of my friend, Clifford Ramsdell, but we left on the afternoon of the 8th and were back in Boston early in the morning of August 9, and were very glad to get back to our mother who had been ill in our absence.</p><P>There was a bill that year (1904) before Congress providing for the addition of an area of 1,000 square miles to the Yellowstone Park.  This included the scraggy, serrated granite peaks of the Teton Range, Jackson Lake, and all the rugged scenic lands north of the Buffalo Fork of the Snake River, including the valleys of Pilgrim and Pacific Creeks to Two-Ocean Pass, the canyons, lakes and forests of the Upper Yellowstone, and the Thorofare Basin.  This gives the Yellowstone a stupendous exhibit of mountain scenery.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
030.sgm:<p>A HURRIED TRIP TO SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA, IN 1920</p><P>On October 14, 1920, Dr. Hilmer O. Koefod telegraphed me that my sister, who was ill in the Santa Barbara Hospital, had "ra&acirc;les in her right chest, axilla and base," and advised me to come to Santa Barbara at once.  I left Boston on October 18, my wife seeing me off from the Trinity Place Station at 2.10 P.M.</p><P>The next morning, October 19, when near Batavia, New York, our train struck an automobile on a railroad crossing, killing two young girls and two boys. There was much discussion on the train as to the cause of the accident. The number 13 seemed to the minds of many to have some significance, for our train consisted of 13 cars and we left Boston on track 13; our engine was numbered 13, and our dining car 113. In Canada we went through miles of beet sugar crops in the harvesting.  We arrived in Chicago two hours late, and left on a second section of the western train at 7.35  P.M.   We arrived at Kansas City at 9 A.M. There were many people on the train from Connecticut, Maine and Massachusetts going to California for the winter, and some of them to settle permanently. There are four trains on this (Santa Fe) line going west each day, packed, in fact crowded, many of them having two sections, each section carrying from ten to twelve sleeping cars.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>The next day, October 21, was a beautiful day, with blue sky, and we saw snow-capped mountains in the distance.  We passed many ranches with corn or cattle or horses, cowboys riding here and there, and later we saw a few "ships of the desert" trailing along over bare and rocky fields and hills with some growth of scrub cedar and sage brush. We awoke at Las Vegas. At noon we were at Albuquerque, where I bought a bow and arrow for my son Cabot from an Apache Indian.  There was a telegram there for me from home to tell me that all was well.  I had already received one the day before at Newton, Kansas.</p><P>On October 22 most of the day we passed through sage brush and sandy, desert country, with bare hills in the distance.  My ears rang loudly, and I was slightly nauseated on account of the altitude.  I photographed some palms near Bagdad.  After passing the Summit station we descended rapidly into a very fertile country of orange orchards, vineyards and palms; pepper and magnolia trees were growing in profusion, and roses and other flowers in full bloom. Reaching Los Angeles at 5.30  P.M. I drove to the Southern Pacific Station, where I dined with Capt. J. T. Fisher, my associate in the Hospital Center at Commercy, France, in 1918, when we were receiving an average of 480 sick and wounded daily from the trenches.  I took the 7.30 train for Santa Barbara, where I arrived at half past ten that evening.</p><P>OCTOBER 23. -- This morning Dr. Koefod called and took me to the Cottage Hospital, where I found my sister upset by the treatments which were necessary on account of her serious illness, as well as by the illness itself.  She had been very ill.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>While in Santa Barbara, and when not with my sister, I was with some of her many friends or physicians.  During my stay here everybody I met was most kind to me, especially the friends and physicians who were so devoted to my sister.</p><P>During the next few days Dr. Koefod took me for many drives about the town and along the Riviera, so called, from where we had extensive views of the city and of the bay, and he and his wife entertained me at luncheon at the "Cozy Corner," with a Mr. Monroe, who was private secretary to Dr. Koefod's patient, Mr. Knapp, whose place we afterwards visited. Dr. Sam Robinson also asked me to lunch at the Santa Barbara Club, where, among other Bostonians, I met Charles W. Dabney.</p><P>On the 27th Dr. Koefod took me for a most delightful drive along the ocean front and over a beautiful mountain pass to Los Angeles, where I lunched with Dr. Fisher at the Athletic Club and later met his children, and I then had the pleasure of calling on my old friend Mamie Perry, now Mrs. Charles M. Wood, who had been twice married since my previous visit in 1882.  Her first husband was an Italian singer.  I enjoyed seeing her in her delightful home, renewing my acquaintance with her charming mother, and meeting her children.  Her daughters have inherited much of their mother's beauty. We returned to Santa Barbara the same evening rather late, for we lost our way in the fog.</p><P>On the evening of the 29th Dr. and Mrs. Samuel Robinson called for me and took me to a very good movie picture.</p><illus entity="a030-0072" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"THE UPHAM," SANTA BARBARA, OCT. 30, 1920</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0073" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COTTAGE HOSPITAL, SANTA BARBARA, OCT. 30, 1920</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>On the 31st Mr. Arnold and Miss Curtis, friends of my sister's, took me for a delightful drive to Rattlesnake Pass and through the McAdoo place; and I lunched with Dr. and Mrs. Samuel Robinson and their three children, after which Mrs. Robinson took me to call on Sam's mother and then left me at the Cottage Hospital to be with my sister Velma.  I dined with Miss Collier and Mrs. Curtis.  As my sister continued to improve, and was pronounced out of danger by her physicians, I left Santa Barbara at 11.35 on the morning of November 1, Dr. Koefod seeing me off, and I arrived in San Francisco at 10.45 that evening. Here I was met by my good friend of Napa days, Emma Howland, formerly Mrs. Sol. Haas, and her husband, Fred L. Button,<ANCHOR ID="n7-11">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: whom she married in 1885; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>The next day, November 2, my mother's cousin, Mr. S. Henry Kent, who was now in his eighty-ninth year, with a perfect memory and wearing no glasses, and his wife met me and took me, at 8 A.M., to the market where he went each morning to order his provisions for the day.  Six feet tall, with a rosy complexion and blue eyes, which matched an immaculate blue shirt, his favorite color and most becoming, he went about everywhere alone, even to Lodge meetings twice a week, for he was an enthusiastic Mason. His (second) wife was about forty-five, young looking and attractive; she seemed to be devoted to him in a perfectly sensible way and to make him very happy. They crossed the ferry with me that evening and saw me to the train at 9.30.  My train stopped awhile at a station called "American," to see the canyon, river and view. During the night we passed over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, 7,000 feet high, which made me breathe a little more rapidly.</p><P>The next morning, November 3, I awoke to see the world covered with snow and a glistening coat of ice on the trees and brushwood.  At Lemay we were in the midst of a desert.  There were two sick men on the train whom I was asked to attend.  One of them, a Serbian, was being sent East in the very last stages of tuberculosis; the other was an American with tuberculosis of the spine, on his way home to Salt Lake <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:from Los Angeles.  There was a Mrs. Gerstel from San Francisco on the train who asked me to attend her grandchild who had been taken ill on the train, so I had a busy trip.  Adolph Sutro, who made the famous Sutro Tunnel, and Rudolph Spreckels, the sugar man, were among my fellow passengers.</p><P>I arrived at Chicago at 11 A.M. on November 5, where I called on my cousin, George Otis Spencer, and lunched at the LaSalle Hotel.  Leaving Chicago that afternoon at 1.30 I arrived in Boston the following day, November 6, at 6.15 P.M.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII</HEAD>
030.sgm:<p>CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST, 1921 TRUCKEE, NEVADA -- LAKE TAHOE -- YOSEMITE SAN FRANCISCO -- MONTEREY - SANTA BARBARA LOS ANGELES -- GRAND CANYON, ARIZONA</p><P>On August 28, 1921, my wife, Mary Cabot Briggs, my son, Lloyd Cabot Briggs, and I left Boston on the 10 A.M. train for Chicago, by the Boston &amp; Albany and the New York Central Railroads, on our way to California for a pleasure trip, and to visit my sister Velma at Santa Barbara.  The weather was warm, but traveling was fairly comfortable, although my wife and son both had hay fever, from which they suffered all the way to Chicago, which we reached the following day.  We went immediately to the LaSalle Hotel, where we all enjoyed baths and had an excellent dinner, leaving Chicago again at eight that evening by the Chicago &amp; Northwestern Overland Limited.  We arrived at Omaha at 10 A.M. on Tuesday, August 30, my wife and son still suffering from hay fever, especially at night.  Ragweed was growing in profusion all along our route, and on our way to Grand Island (the third largest city in Nebraska) it was so luxuriant that it almost brushed the car windows where we were sitting.  Early in the morning of August 31 we found ourselves in the desert, but we passed many fertile spots where there were cattle and sheep ranches.  We <illus entity="a030-0074" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WOOD-FIRED ENGINE WHICH RAN FROM TRUCKEE TO TAHOE</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</ILLUS></P><illus entity="a030-0075" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>L. CABOT BRIGGS DIVING IN LAKE TAHOE, SEPT. 1, 1921</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>reached Grand River, Wyoming, at 8 o'clock that morning, and the train stopped there long enough for us to take some photographs of the town and hill. At Evanston, Wyoming, again we were glad to have a chance for exercise, and we got out and walked about the town.  We arrived at Ogden, Utah, at 2  P.M., and had time to do some shopping on the main street before our train went on.  Soon afterwards we crossed the Great Salt Lake, which I remembered having to go around the last time I crossed the continent by this route.  We were passing through sage brush and alkali country most of the day, and that night our altitude varied from 4,000 to 8,000 feet.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 1,  THURSDAY. -- This morning at 5.40 we arrived at Truckee, Nevada, and left the train, being met by a seven passenger Packard car, sent from San Francisco to meet us and driven by a good chauffeur, W. S. Anderson.  We started at 6  A.M. and had a beautiful morning drive of fourteen miles, over a very fair road, to Lake Tahoe.  The air was pure and invigorating, and the sunshine was warm, though tempered by cool breezes from the snowcovered mountains. Our road followed the line of the Truckee River, a mountain stream of pure, ice-cold water; the growth of trees, bushes and flowers along our road, which wound between the hills, was most lovely.  We arrived at Lake Tahoe at 7 A.M. in time for a good breakfast at the Tahoe Tavern, where we found comfortable rooms awaiting us and enjoyed good service.  We spent the day reveling in the magnificent views and walking in the woods.  Cabot almost immediately went swimming and diving in Lake Tahoe.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:From the end of the pier we could see the bottom of the lake, 50 feet deep, so clear was the water.  The lake is 1,700 feet deep in places, and has an altitude of over 6,000 feet, and a most wonderful coloring of <illus entity="a030-0076" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LAKE TAHOE</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:sapphire, emerald, blue-green and gray.  Sometimes Lake Tahoe is called Lake Bigler, in honor of John Bigler, who was Governor of California from 1852 to 1855, and who introduced alfalfa into California from Chili, South America.</p><P>We also drove to Emerald Bay, one of the most beautiful and romantic places on Lake Tahoe, a little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:over three miles in length by half a mile wide.  The road was very rough, but the spot was so lovely that it more than repaid us for our discomfort.  Near by is an island surrounded by rock, upon which is a rude tomb with a cross.  The story goes that the island belonged years ago to an erratic Englishman called Captain Dick, who lived there for some time and built the tomb for his own remains. Unfortunately he ventured out upon the lake in his boat one dark and stormy night when he had taken so much to drink that he was unable to navigate.  He was drowned and his body was never recovered, so the lonely tomb is empty. The road was very rough, and although the trip was well worth the effort we were not sorry to get back to the Tavern.  This lake is named for an Indian Chief who is said to have been drowned while swimming in its waters after partaking of two much firewater.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 2. -- Today we left Tahoe by steamer at ten o'clock in the morning and arrived at Tallac about one o'clock, after a most delightful sail, including a trip around Emerald Bay, which was very beautiful this morning.  In spite of the fact that the snow falls in winter all around the lake to a depth of eight and ten feet its waters never freeze.  In summer the water reaches a higher temperature on the surface, but decreases with the increasing depth to 700 feet, below which it never changes, being always about 39 degrees.  The coldness of the lower water is given as the reason that the bodies of drowned persons never rise, the water being so cold that decomposition does not take place, and therefore no gases are generated.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:Lake Tahoe is famous for its trout fishing.  Many thousands of fish are taken from the lake every summer, weighing from one to eight pounds apiece.  The headwaters of Truckee River, which is one of the most beautiful mountain streams I have ever seen, are always alive with trout.</p><P>We left the steamboat at Tallac, another very picturesque spot, at the base of Mt. Tallac, from whose summit one can see fourteen beautiful lakes, all thousands of feet above sea level.  Here we were again met by Anderson, the chauffeur, with the car.  Soon after starting on our journey to Minden, Nevada, we lost a pin from the car, which we finally regained after traveling back a quarter of a mile.  Replacing it we proceeded on our way, with our springs held down by straps, over a narrow road with many curves, through wonderful mountains and a pass by way of Kingsbury Grade to the grazing valley of Minden.  We arrived at the Minden Inn at 5  P.M., a clean, comfortable house with a beautiful view of mountains and plains, situated opposite a very noisy garage. SATURDAY,  SEPTEMBER 3. -- We left Minden at seven this morning and continued on our way amid very beautiful scenery.  First we followed the windings of a lovely river, and then our road led us into California, past Interstate Lake, up through a beautiful pass to Bridgeport, and thence to Mono Lake. On the way, near Brooksville, Nevada, we reached some fairly level elevated country, and came upon a building standing by itself in a dreary, windswept rocky country, without a tree in sight.  Before this lonely house stood a man of curious type, shabbily <illus entity="a030-0077" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MONO LAKE. MRS. McPHERSON'S BOAT JUST LEAVING HER ISLAND</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0078" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VENITA R. McPHERSON AND HER GOATS ON PAOHA RANCH AND ISLAND, MONO LAKE</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0079" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AFTER LEAVING MINDON, SEPT. 3, 1921</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>dressed and very peculiar looking, though his face showed some intelligence.  I asked the chauffeur to pull up, that I might inquire who this strange individual might be, apparently living quite alone in a God-forsaken country. To my surprise he introduced himself as Dr. Bartlett, and informed me that the building was not only a house, but a hospital.  He said that he was in government employ, and that he had quite a number of patients there, and there was no other medical service for many miles, so that he was often called to see patients thirty or forty miles away -- certainly a heroic life.  He claimed to be an expert in various specialties, -- surgery, obstetrics and internal medicine.  He told us that he was a New Englander, born in the Falmouth House on Causeway Street, in Boston, and said he had come out to San Francisco around Cape Horn on a schooner; he was now, he said, the "head" of this hospital.</p><P>We stopped at lovely Mono Lake, which lies at an elevation of 6,412 feet.  Its waters are highly impregnated with salt, lime, borax and soda, and are intensely bitter and of such high specific gravity that bathers float without effort.   No living thing inhabits this lake, which is sometimes called the Dead Sea of California. The lake, with its lovely islands, lies in a great plain, bounded by towering mountains, -- an exquisitely beautiful spot. Here we met a Mrs. Wallace D. McPherson, a very interesting and attractive lady, who has her home, "Paoha Ranch," on one of these islands.  She raises goats, and has some very valuable ones, and she is deeply interested in everything that concerns this beautiful country.  When we spoke of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:the magnificent falls which we had passed that morning she told us that they now belonged to a power company who were obtaining the right from Congress to use them for commercial purposes, thus destroying their beauty.  She seemed to feel that there was little hope of their being saved, because of the strong political influences at work for the power company, but begged us to write to our Senators and Congressmen remonstrating against this commercial vandalism.  (This we did promptly, but the power company was successful, as such enterprises usually are, in ruining these falls.)</p><P>Leaving Mono Lake we soon began to climb toward Tioga Pass, to go through which we had to have a permit from an agent of the Department of the Interior. This pass is 9,941 feet above sea level, and from it we saw the glistening, snowy cap of Mt. Dana, 13,300 feet high.  We came down from the pass over the Toulumne Meadows, through which the beautiful Toulumne River flows peacefully for twenty miles and then suddenly plunges over a precipice 2,000 feet high and enters one of the most inaccessible mountain canyons in America.</p><P>We arrived at Lake Tenaya at half-past seven this evening, and as it was already dark, we were shown immediately to our quarters, which were two canvas tents.  We took good care to attend our fires, but, nevertheless, the water froze in our tents before morning.  As we had a great log fire in one of the tents we were joined there in the evening by other travelers whose quarters were near ours, and we managed to be very cozy and comfortable until bedtime.  We were <illus entity="a030-0080" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TENAYA LAKE, CALIFORNIA, SEPT. 4, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0081" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CANVAS CABINS AT TENAYA LAKE, WHERE WE SPENT THE NIGHT OF SEPT. 3, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0082" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>L. V. BRIGGS AND PARTY PASSING A MULE TEAM NEAR TIOGA PASS, SEPT. 3, 1921</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>given good but simple food, and at nine everybody retired and the camp was soon dark.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 4. -- We were awakened at three this morning by the stampede of some horses, belonging <illus entity="a030-0083" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
030.sgm:to other tourists, which had been left tethered outside the tents, and we soon heard the cause of their fright. There was a sniffling and growling under the flaps of our tents; arising, I discovered that <HI REND="italics">bears</HI>
030.sgm: were trying to break in; they had evidently smelt the remains of our supper and meant to help themselves. We were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:obliged to drive them off twice during the night, and we did not feel like sleeping very soundly afterwards. We left Tenaya Lake at 7.30 this morning, and had a better chance by daylight to take in the beauty of our surroundings.  Some of the ranches about here have Lombardy poplars which are already from thirty to forty years old.</p><P>This glacier lake is probably the highest of all the many beautiful California lakes, -- 8,141 feet; it is only about a mile across, but for picturesqueness and grandeur of scenery surely no place in the Sierra Range surpasses it. Along the western shore sweeps a beautiful meadow shaded by stately forest trees and watered by crystal streams.  The amphitheatre in which it is situated is guarded by lofty granite peaks and ridges, which glistened in the sun like great glaciers, while Cloud's Rest, Mt. Watkins and other high peaks overlooking the chasm of the Yosemite seemed `but a stone's throw away.  The water looks shallow along the western shore, but the bottom shelves off gradually and then drops suddenly to an unknown depth against the base of the precipitous mountain guarding the eastern shore.</p><P>After driving through deep woods and on the brinks of many precipices, over a very poor and extremely narrow road, especially bad on the turns, we met with delay at Big Oak Flat Grade, being unable to pass the Yosemite Company's White Car, which was apparently geared differently from our own.  However, we passed the "Control" on time and arrived at Yosemite at about two o'clock.  We had our lunch beside the Merced River, under the shadow of Bridal <illus entity="a030-0084" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MERCED RIVER, YOSEMITE, SEPT. 4, 1921, NEAR WHERE WE LUNCHED IN OUR CAR</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0085" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HALF DOME, YOSEMITE, AT MIRROR LAKE, SEPT. 5, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0086" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>YOSEMITE</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>Falls on the right and El Capitan, a 7,500-foot mountain, on the left.</p><P>After our lunch we drove through the village to Yosemite Lodge, where we were given a bungalow surrounded by big trees, the same, we were told, that Governor Stevens had recently occupied.  We have had to tell the story of our recent experiences several times this evening, for up to this time few have entered the Yosemite by the route we chose.  Indeed, we were probably among the very first to go over that road in an automobile, though there is a motor stage route from here to Lake Tenaya (as we learned to our sorrow); at times during the early part of our journey we were held up by roadmakers still at work to make it possible for the first automobiles to pass.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 5. -- We are still at the Lodge.  There is much to see and to marvel at in this world-famed valley of the high Sierras in middle eastern California, with its 1,125 square miles of lofty cliffs, its giant trees, its romantic vistas and waterfalls of stupendous height. After an early morning expedition to Mirror Lake, surely the gem of all lakes, to see the marvelous reflections, and stopping at the Hermit's Cave, we visited the town and called upon Chief Ranger Townsley, from whom we obtained much information about the work being done in the reservation under his direction.  We also went to the Zoo and saw specimens of various wild animals from this region, including wild cats, mountain lions and bears. Then we went to the Yosemite Indian Settlement, where we saw that celebrated old Indian woman, Lucy.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>This valley was formerly occupied by hostile Indians and was not seen by white men until 1850, when a number of them formed a military company to punish the then murderous Indians and to compel peace, and later a similar expedition under Captain Bolling invaded their stronghold and killed or stampeded its defenders.  Peace was declared, but soon afterward the stampeded Indians returned and recommenced hostilities by murdering two miners and burying their bodies near Bridal Veil Falls, which act resulted in their being driven out of the valley by an expedition of whites in 1852, and later in their complete extinction by the friendly tribe of Mono Indians. For four years afterward different bands of Indians held peaceful possession of the valley before the final incursion of white tourists, who seem to have held possession ever since. The first trail through the valley was made on the Mariposa side in 1856, but of course it was many years before any but the very adventurous tourist undertook this expedition which has now become so popular.</p><P>We returned to our Lodge for lunch, where we met Miss Ida Stauff, an interesting woman who is instructor of languages at Stanford University.</p><P>In the afternoon we hired a well-known guide, who calls himself "Professor Herbert E. Wilson, Official Escort."  Wilson is an entertaining fellow, who has written a good deal about this valley.  He knows the Indians well, speaks their language, and can dress up in disguise as an Indian so that it is impossible to tell him from a real aborigine.</p><P>This evening Wilson took us to see the night sights in the valley.  First he drove us at a rattling pace -- <illus entity="a030-0087" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>L. CABOT BRIGGS, L. VERNON BRIGGS AND CHAUFFEUR, W. G. ANDERSON, ON THE YOSEMITE TRAIL, SEPT. 5, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0088" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HALF DOME, YOSEMITE, SEPT. 5, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0089" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW ON THE WAY FROM YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT, SEPT. 6, 1921</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>forty or fifty miles an hour -- over an awfully rough and perfectly dark road, for four and a half miles from the Lodge to a refuse or garbage heap in the woods. Turning his lights on this dump we saw eight bears feeding.  With his small Ford he put after first one and then another of them until all had disappeared except two, a black and a brown one, which he treed.  Then he took us to Camp Curry, a tourist settlement of about 640 tents of various sizes.  Next we stopped opposite Glacier Point, where there is a famous overhanging rock which juts out into space 3,200 feet high.  On top of this a bonfire had been started with many small branches and pieces of fir, etc.  When these were all aglow those who had been nursing the fire gradually pushed it over the precipice of 3,000 feet so slowly that it looked like some giant falls ablaze, -- a splendid sight, which lasted for half an hour or more, -- after which we returned to the Lodge for the night.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 6. -- At half past seven this morning we left Yosemite.  Quite a number of new-made friends arose to see us off.  First we stopped at Glacier Point, opposite where we watched the fiery cataract last night, reaching there about eleven o'clock, after a rough drive but with many fine views.  This is the most magnificent outlook in the Yosemite, 7,214 feet above sea level and 3,254 feet above the valley.  We walked about from point to point above the steep precipices to get the glorious views of mountains and falls, the "Little Yosemite," and the high peaks of the Sierras. We had a cafeteria lunch at Glacier Point and then drove to Wawona, over the Wawona Road, a beautiful panorama of mountain scenery all the way.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<P>At Wawona we left our luggage and went on to the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees.  The road to the grove is so narrow cars run on it at a speed of twelve miles an hour in one direction, leaving Wawona on the even hours and returning on the odd hours only, so as to avoid passing. This wonderful grove is situated at an altitude of 6,500 feet above sea level.  We marveled much at the ages of these great trees, and at their size; at the towering mountain ranges, startling precipices and a cave of considerable size.  We had our lunch under the shadow of the king of them all, the "Grizzly Bear" or "Grizzly Giant," which is said to be over 5,000 years old.  It is 32 feet in diameter (96 feet in circumference), and it is estimated that it would cut a million feet of lumber.  I took a photograph of Cabot standing by this tree -- he looked like a mere pygmy.  A tunnel for the road was cut through the trunk of another great tree, "Wawona," in 1880, through which automobiles are driven and stages with four horses, without any apparent injury to the tree.</p><P>These giant trees are the <HI REND="italics">oldest living things in the world</HI>
030.sgm:;  estimates vary as to their age from about 2,000 to 6,000 years.  The Sierra Nevadas lack the glaciers, the frequent rains, the rich verdure of the Alps, but they surpass any other mountains I know of in the world in the wealth and grace of their trees. "The Big Tree," says Professor Whitney, "is extremely limited in its range, even more so than its twin brother, the Redwood.  The latter is strictly a coast range, or seaboard tree; the other, inland, or exclusively limited to the Sierras. . . . The Big Tree has never been found outside of California, and probably never will be. It may be roughly stated that their area does not, <illus entity="a030-0090" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW FROM GLACIER POINT, YOSEMITE, SEPT. 6, 1921, CABOT IN THE FOREGROUND</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0091" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BIG TREE AT WAWONA, SAID TO BE 5,000 YEARS OLD. L. CABOT BRIGGS STANDING AT THE FOOT OF THE TREE, SEPT. 6, 1921</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>so far as is yet known, exceed fifty square miles, and most of this is in one path, between King's and Kaweah Rivers."</p><P>There are two groups of big trees in the Mariposa Grove, half a mile apart, lying in a little valley which occupies a depression on the back of a ridge running almost in an easterly direction between Big Creek and the South Merced.  A branch of this creek heads in the grove, and as a rule the largest trees are found nearer the water, though several of the very largest are on the hillside south of the creek, quite high above the stream. Going a little farther up on the ridge above the grove, we had a very fine view of the country, and especially of the Merced group. There are eight distinct groves of 252 acres of these big trees in middle eastern California, numbering some 12,000 trees of the <HI REND="italics">sequoia gigantea</HI>
030.sgm: variety, over 10 feet in diameter -- some of them 25 to 36 feet.  Endlicher, who named this genus, was not only a botanist but an ethnologist; he named it for Sequoyah, a Cherokee Indian of mixed blood, born in Alabama about 1770, who invented an alphabet and a written language for his tribe.  We drove back to Wawona for the night through a denuded forest, after our marvelous day at Mariposa.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 7. -- We started out again at 7.30 this morning from Wawona, and after about three hours in the high hills we passed down through a grazing flat to Merced, where we arrived about two o'clock and dismissed our automobile.  We took rooms for a few hours at a fairly good local hotel, and at 5.53 P.M. we boarded our train for San Francisco, where we arrived at 10.40 this evening.  It was very lovely crossing the bay and looking out at the lights of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:beautiful city as we approached.  We were met here by Kelly, the owner of our automobile, who took us to the St. Francis Hotel, where we found comfortable rooms and our trunks awaiting us.  Things change very rapidly in California in these days. As we passed through Oakland, the key to San Francisco, we noted the results of $2,500,000 recently spent on harbor improvements, and among the developments which are new to me are the outfitting station of the Alaska Packers' Fishing Association, which is a huge wall of concrete built at a cost of nearly $3,000,000; the new Hotel Oakland, constructed at a cost of $1,500,000; the Museum; the Chamber of Commerce; the cotton mills, representing an investment of over $1,000,000; the modern schools; and a new $2,500,000 City Hall. Fortunately the great skyscrapers of New York are unknown here, and the Hotel St. Francis, fourteen stories high, is the highest building in San Francisco. It faces Union Square and is the center of social life down town.  It has an excellent chef, an up-to-date orchestra for dancing, ball and banquet rooms, and a cafe whose walls are embellished with paintings by Albert Herter.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 8. -- Today we had a call from Obadiah Rich, my old friend of the Palace-Grand Hotel, but now manager of the Clift Hotel, to whom I have referred in previous visits.  We all went shopping and bought ranger's hats for Cabot and myself, then to Chinatown, where we found Chinese silk materials and many articles of especial interest in the shops of Kin Lung &amp; Co. and Quong on Wo &amp; Co. on Dupont street, including some enameled cups.  This afternoon I called on Mr. Jackson, the son of Colonel Jackson <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:of the Napa Soda Springs, of whom I have already written, and I ordered some soda water sent to me in Boston -- the same Napa Spring water as of 1882 which I bought of Colonel Jackson at the Springs that year (see Chapter I). This, at least, has not changed, and no lemonade is so delicious as that made with this spring water.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 9. -- We had a most delightful drive today with Mr. and Mrs. Rich, over Nob Hill, where are located the sumptuous residences of the early railroad and mining millionaires, -- the Flood house, the Leland Stanford and the Mark Hopkins mansions. Then we went to the Presidio to get the beautiful harbor view.  (The word <HI REND="italics">Presidio</HI>
030.sgm: in Spanish signifies a garrison post; this was the first permanent settlement, made in 1776, within the limits of what is now San Francisco.)  Then we went to the Cliff House -- more changes, indeed!  This is the fourth hotel of this famous name to occupy the same site since 1863. Kings, Presidents and Lords have wined and dined here and watched the sea lions play in the waters at the foot of the cliffs.  The Spaniards called the sea lions <HI REND="italics">sea wolves</HI>
030.sgm:. The Adolph Sutro Baths and Museum, on the Pacific Ocean, near the Cliff House, claim to contain the "largest indoor natatorium in the world." Everything is large in California!  The Golden Gate Park of 1,013 acres is in process of development. From it we had beautiful views of the bay and of the Golden Gate.  Wild animals of many species already inhabit the enclosures which have been built for them; broad roads overarched by shade trees lead one past beds of richly colored flowers and across picturesque stone bridges which span artificial lakes, and up to the summit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:of Strawberry Hill, 428 feet above the ocean.  It is indeed a lovely spot, and the views from beneath the fine trees remind one of old engravings.  We also visited the Mission Dolores, within whose adobe walls services have been held for more than one hundred and thirty years.  It presents a combination of the Moorish, Mission and Corinthian styles.  In 1776 the dwellings for the Indians which were grouped about the mission buildings were built chiefly of willow poles, thatched, and later adobe houses roofed with tiles were built.</p><P>This evening Major Esterly and Mr. Siebert, friends of my days at Camp Devens, in 1917, called to see me.</p><P>SATURDAY,  SEPTEMBER 10. -- Polly, Cabot and I went shopping again in Chinatown, with Mr. Samuel Henry Kent, who is now in his ninetieth year; we lunched together at the St. Francis Hotel, and at 6 o'clock we all dined with Mr. and Mrs. Rich<ANCHOR ID="n8-11">*</ANCHOR>
030.sgm: at the Clift Hotel.  We found Chinatown as interesting as ever.  Rudyard Kipling said, after his visit there, "It is a ward of the city of Canton, set down in the most eligible business quarter of San Francisco," and so it seems to us. As one strolls along Grant Avenue, <illus entity="a030-0092" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BAY AT CARMEL NEAR MONTEREY, CAL., SEPT. 11, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0093" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW FROM GLACIER POINT, SEPT. 6, 1921</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>between Pine and Jackson streets, one cannot help admiring the architectural construction of the buildings and the interesting Chinese goods displayed in the shop windows. Most of the Chinese here are from Canton or its surrounding cities. The city of Canton, China, has been modernized, I understand, as has the Chinatown of San Francisco. The squalid quarter of years ago has been cleansed by fire, and Chinatown <illus entity="a030-0094" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
030.sgm:has been transformed from the disgusting quarter I found it in 1881 and 1882 into a rather picturesque modern settlement.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-11">Obadiah Rich, famed San Francisco hotel man, died today, April 20, 1925, at a Christian Science Rest Home at 1436 Balboa Street, where he was taken last Friday, after being stricken on Wednesday with apoplexy at the Clift Hotel, of which he was manager. He was seventy-two years old and most of his life had been passed in the hotels that made this city noted among travelers around the world, -- the old Palace and the Grand, when a bridge over New Montgomery Street connected them, the Fairmont and finally the Clift.  He was born in Truro, Massachusetts, and came to San Francisco when a young man to become clerk in the Grand Hotel. He soon became assistant manager of both the Grand and the Palace, under Col. John C. Kirkpatrick, succeeding to the managership on the colonel's death. Afterwards he became manager of the Fairmont and the Palace, and then was made head of the Clift. He is survived by his widow, a sister in the East, and a cousin, Mrs. Samuel Augusta Moody of San Francisco.</NOTE>
030.sgm:<P>SEPTEMBER 12. -- Yesterday we left San Francisco at two in the afternoon by the Southern Pacific Railway, and arrived at Monterey at six o'clock; we came directly to the Hotel Del Monte, where we found most luxurious accommodation. The hotel stands in a park of one hundred and twenty-five acres, with ancient oaks and stately pines interspersed with lawns, shrubbery and beds of flowers. There is a splendid Roman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:swimming pool here, and an indoor pool at the bathing beach, and there are good golf links, where Cabot enjoyed playing this morning.  The beautiful bay of Monterey sweeps in a half circle, surrounded by miles of sun-rimmed beach and rocky bluffs.  We took the seventeen-mile Drive through the Del Monte Forest, with beautiful views all the way of the hills and the bay, where we saw cormorants and pelicans on the rocks.  Some of the Monterey cypresses, which look much like Italian cypresses, or stone pines, are said to be a thousand years old. The hotel has a club house at Carmel by the Sea, Carmel Bay, where we went out in a glass-bottomed boat and looked down at the red, green, purple and yellow fish, the starfish and sea urchins, many feet below us among beautiful seaweeds.</p><P>Few of us in the East know much of the history of California.  The Spanish settled early on these coasts and built up flourishing missions;  their romantic names and the dates are interesting and make one want to learn more about the life and times of these adventurers.  In 1542, Roderiguez Cabrillo landed in the Bay of Monterey, and in 1602 Sebastian Vizcanino claimed the country for the King of Spain, naming it for his patron, the Count de Monte Rey, at that time Viceroy of Mexico.</p><P>The appearance of the country made a deep impression upon the enthusiastic navigator, and he departed with the hope of soon returning to found a church and a settlement.  Several attempts were made to reach the spot again, but in vain, probably owing to the difficulty of identifying the location on Vizcanino's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:map, as well as to the dangers encountered on the way, and it was one hundred and sixty-eight years before the foot of a white man again trod the soil of Monterey.  Finally, in 1770, this spot was occupied by valiant Jesuits, under Padre Junipero, who held Mass there for the first time on June 3 of that year. The bell which called the faithful together was hung from a tree, the location of which was marked by a cross to celebrate the centennial of their occupation.</p><P>The fine old Mission Church of San Carlos de Borromeo remains to this day.  It was the second of the twenty-one missions established in California, the mission at San Diego being the first. In that same year, 1770, Gaspar de Portola, the first Governor of Alta, California, established a presidio and garrison at Monterey, which remained the capital of California until 1849.  Some ruins of the old fort may still be seen near a Mexican fort of a later date, and farther up the hill the Americans built their fort when they seized the country in 1846.  The old Custom House is also a picturesque and interesting landmark; in fact, this place is full of old landmarks of early American history.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 13. -- Cabot got out early this morning for an hour on the golf links before we started on our journey to Santa Barbara by the 10.25 A.M. train on the Southern Pacific.  The first part of the journey was not very interesting, but we enjoyed going over the Horse Shoe Curve and along the ocean front with its long lines of curving breakers. We arrived at Santa Barbara at 7.15 P.M. and found very comfortable rooms at the Hotel Arlington.  My sister Velma, who is our objective, is still living in Santa Barbara. I am happy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:to say that she is in much better health than she was a year ago, though she still has to be very careful. She has been here so long that she may almost be called a resident of Santa Barbara.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 14. -- It is not surprising that this place has become so famous as a winter resort.  Its beautiful curving beach faces directly to the south, and it is backed by the sloping foothills of the towering Santa Ynez Range; the climate is mild and delightful, and many fine winter homes have been erected here. The city is comparatively new, built on the site of an old mission settlement, and there is a fine esplanade bordered with palms, the Plaza del Mar, which flanks the beach.  A Spanish settlement was made here in 1782 by Ortega, but the present city dates from 1851. The old mission of Santa Barbara, founded in 1786, is one of the relics of the early days.</p><P>After lunch Mary Gray (Mrs. Roland Gray of Boston) called and drove us out to her home in Montecito, which borders on the sea, four miles from Santa Barbara. We had supper with them, -- Roland, Robin, Molly and Christopher and Elizabeth Thacher. Afterwards Cabot played croquet with the children and then Mary sent us home in her automobile.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 16. -- As we came to Santa Barbara to visit Velma, we spend several hours each day with her. She has been ill and is still confined to her room, but seems to be gaining every day. We found the Arlington rather draughty and noisy, so we removed this morning to `El Mirasol, formerly the residence of Albert Herter, now converted into a very attractive bungalow hotel.  The house, designed by Delano &amp; Aldrich of New York, is said to be one of the most perfect <illus entity="a030-0095" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>L. CABOT BRIGGS ON THE GOLF LINKS AT MONTEREY, CAL., SEPT. 11, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-96" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>L. CABOT BRIGGS AT MISS BAYLOR'S WALNUT GROVE (HARVEST TIME), SANTA BARBARA, SEPT. 21, 1921 (See page 198)</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>specimens of Spanish architecture in all California. The bungalows in which the guests are quartered are in harmony with the main house, which has been remodeled to provide a central dining room, lounging rooms and office, but the main features of the original house, with its beautiful patio surrounding a court with an exquisite marble fountain, have not been spoiled.  The smaller dining room is called the Peacock Room, and is decorated by two panels by Albert Herter.  This afternoon I left this delightful spot to visit the Santa Barbara clinic with Dr. Koefod, my sister's physician and my own good friend, who introduced me to members of the staff. This is a most up-to-date clinic, not unlike one or two of our very best in Boston -- Dr. Edwin A. Locke's, for instance, or Dr. Harry W. Goodall's.  Dr. Koefod (who was for a time at the Psychopathic Hospital, Boston, studying) also took me to visit some of his patients, and introduced me, among others, to Mr. Cluett, of Cluett, Peabody &amp; Co., and Mr. Wrigley, of chewing gum fame.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 17. -- Today we took a beautiful drive to the Ojai Valley, fifteen miles inland, by way of Ventura, and lunched with Mary Gray at her delightful home in this beautiful valley.  This valley is a great amphitheatre, with mountain walls rising on all sides.  It reminds one of the great parks of old oaks in England, but here the oaks are all the more beautiful because the hand of man has not interfered to mar the work of nature.  The delightful climate of this valley has made it famous as a health resort. Ventura, or San Buenaventura, as it was originally called, four miles south of Santa Barbara, is a fine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:Seaport town, beautifully situated on the shore about twenty to fifty feet above high tide.  The surf runs along the foot of the streets, and Mrs. Gray has chosen well these two places for her abode in California. We came home by way of Toro Canyon, and were shown through some of the lovely estates. We made a short call on Velma before returning to our hotel for dinner. Afterwards we went to see "Dear Brutus," given by the Community Arts Association.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 18. -- Dr. Koefod called after lunch and drove us out to the Knapp place in Montecito. There are outside and inside bathing pools and beautiful garden walks and views.  Afterwards Cabot went on to the Grays to swim with them in the Pacific, at Miramar.  We stopped for him later and we all went to call on Mrs. Koefod; with the Koefods we all went to tea at the Samarkand Hotel, which is finished in Sumptuous Persian style.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 20. -- Yesterday Cabot played golf at the La Cumbre Golf and Country Club, and today, after visiting Velma, we remained quietly in our comfortable quarters and received calls from Dr. and Mrs. Jean, Miss Curtis and Dr. Brush, who took us for a drive and showed us the McCormick estate, where he holds the position of private physician to young Mr. McCormick. SEPTEMBER 21. -- Miss Baylor called for us today in her automobile and took us to her walnut ranch, a delightful drive.  We picked and ate walnuts and sampled her strawberries, raspberries, grapes, melons, apples, tomatoes, lemons, etc., and then we went to afternoon tea at Mrs. Weld's.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 22. -- Polly and I went shopping this <illus entity="a030-0097" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"CASA DE PAZ," MARY GRAY'S HOUSE IN THE OJAI VALLEY, CALIFORNIA, SEPT. 17, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0098" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>L. CABOT BRIGGS ON THE LA CUMBRA GOLF LINKS, SANTA BARBARA, SEPT. 19, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0099" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN INEZ MISSION, SEPT. 23, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<illus entity="a030-0100" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CABOT ON THE STEPS OF THE COTTAGE WE OCCUPIED AT THE EL MIRASOL, SANTA BARBARA, SEPTEMBER, 1921</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>morning, and, as usual, to see Velma.  In the afternoon we had tea with Miss Curtis in an adobe house, and afterwards went to see other adobe houses and some old furniture places.  Miss Curtis returned with us for dinner.  For the evening I gave a little talk, at Dr. Koefod's request, to the doctors of the Santa Barbara Clinic.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 23. -- We all went for a hundred mile drive today, over the wonderful San Marco Pass, which is well worth seeing, and through the Santa Ynez Valley.  The San Marco Ranch of 10,000 acres was set afire a week ago, supposedly by people who had been refused the right to fish there.  It was slow going in the valley, which was hot and dusty, so the drive took us all day from ten o'clock until half past four.  This valley is thirty miles long.  The soil is chiefly loam, and the surface lies in a series of terraces, 25, 45 and 95 feet, respectively, above the bed of the river.  We stopped to visit the interesting old Santa Ynez Mission, and were shown the original vestments (1804), the old silver service and the wall paintings. We came back to the shore over the Gaviotta Pass, and home.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 24. -- This morning I spent with Velma. Mary Gray came for Cabot at eleven o'clock and took him to swim with the young people and for lunch, bringing him back at three o'clock.  Soon afterwards Dr. and Mrs. Jean called and took us on the Mountain Drive, from which we looked down on Santa Barbara and had beautiful views of mountains and sea.  At five o'clock we arrived at the La Paz Tea House at Montecito, prettily situated on a hill, which overlooks other hills.  Here we had tea and met Dr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:and Mrs. Bissell, formerly of Minnesota, and another doctor and his wife from New York City. This evening we gave a dinner at El Mirasol to Dr. and Mrs. Koefod, Dr. and Mrs. Jean, Roland and Mary Gray and their son John. The El Mirasol outdid themselves and served a delicious dinner, and we had a very pleasant evening.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 25. -- Miss Baylor, formerly of Massachusetts, called for us in her automobile and we spent a very pleasant morning in her house and gardens. This is the house in which Miss Charlotte Bowditch of Jamaica Plain used to live.  Miss Baylor showed us her pictures, a good many paintings by Lundgren, including a particularly good one of the Grand Canyon and also Hunt's original sketch for his "Drummer Boy:"  In Miss Baylor's garden there are nests of quail who come back year after year to raise their young, knowing that they will be protected.</p><P>Later in the afternoon, after I made my daily visit to Velma, Dr. Bissell called and took us to afternoon tea at Mrs. Oliver's and then to his own home, where Mrs. Bissell had prepared a very dainty tea for us, with delicious waffles and pretty round balls of different colored melons.  I went back to Velma's after dinner and had a lovely evening with her.  It has been very warm here -- 100 in the shade for some days.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 26. -- This morning, after shopping for Chinese and Japanese things at Benz's, we called on Dr. Williams, who showed us the De la Guerra house where he lives. Then we spent the rest of the morning and all of the afternoon with Velma.  Our hotel bill at El Mirasol for ten days was $911.10, but it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:a delightful hostelry, pleasantly located, and with most delicious food.  We left this evening on the 7.34 train for Los Angeles, arriving there at 10.40, with the thermometer at 101.  We came directly to the Hotel Alexander.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 27. -- Dr. and Mrs. James T. Fisher called last evening shortly after our arrival and took us to the grill room of our hotel for refreshments and music and to watch the dancing. The weather is too hot to remain in Los Angeles. After driving us through the old residential part of Los Angeles, Captain Fisher put us on the train at 11.30 this morning for the Grand Canyon of Arizona, where we hope it will be cooler. Los Angeles has grown beyond all recognition and is now a great modern metropolis, with fine streets, skyscrapers and a network of trolley lines and railways; but there are twenty-one parks within the city limits, and the residence district is lovely, with its tree-shaded avenues, pretty houses and semi-tropical foliage, its graceful pepper trees and acacias, tall palms, eucalyptus, orange and lemon trees.  But the city this year certainly belies its good reputation for an equable climate, and we shall be glad, indeed, to reach higher altitudes.  When our train reached San Bernardino today the temperature was 108 degrees, and at 4 P.M. at Barstow the thermometer in our car registered 115 degrees.  All the passengers in the car were calling for ice, which they put into their handkerchiefs and held to their heads.  We left the Needles at 8.30 P.M. and soon afterwards the thermometer fell to 92 degrees.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 28. -- At 7  A.M., when we reached Williams, the thermometer had fallen to 68 degrees, much to our relief.  At half-past eight we arrived at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0102" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>L. CABOT BRIGGS (LEADING), MRS. L. V. BRIGGS AND THE GUIDE GOING DOWN THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA BY THE HERMIT TRAIL, SEPT. 30, 1921</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>and all ablaze with such color as no eastern or European landscape ever knew even in the Alpen glow. . . . Amid those enchanted towers -- castles which the vastness of the scale leads you to call "Rocks," but which in fact are as big above the river bed as the Rockies from Denver, and bigger than Mt. Washington from Fabyan's or the Glen.</p><P>We spent the morning enjoying the wonderful views from the terrace of the hotel and the refreshment of the invigorating air after our hot week in a torrid temperature.  This afternoon we got an automobile and drove 65 miles to the Painted Desert View, partly in the Hopi Indian Reservation.  We started out through the tall pines of the Tusayan forest, and stopped at Thor's Hammer and Grand View, from which we had splendid outlooks over the Canyon, showing the Great Bend of the Colorado River and its marvelous course all the way from Bright Angel Creek to Marble Canyon. No wonder the cliff dwellers were inspired to make their homes in these rocks. We paused to visit these cliff dwellings at Cliff Dwellers Point, and stopped again in the late afternoon at Lincoln's Point, 8,000 feet high, where we had the most magnificent view of all; then we went on to our destination, Navajo Point, or Painted Desert View, where we stayed until long after sunset, reveling in the marvelous display of colors, -- a glory of colors, mystic and unreal, which seem unbelievable until one has actually seen a sunset in the Grand Canyon of Arizona.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 29.   We visited the Hopi Indians and saw them dance in costume the Butterfly dance, the Hopi war dance and the Eagle dance.  These Indians still cling to their high dwelling places and live almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:wholly by agriculture.  They are said to be industrious, thrifty, orderly and mirthful, and seem really to enjoy their dancing. The Navajo Indians also have a reservation, one of the largest in the United States, on the borders of the Marble Canyon.  Their women weave fine blankets, and some of the men are expert silversmiths, who make bracelets, rings and other articles from Mexican coin silver. They are a pastoral people, intelligent, and, like the Hopis, self-supporting.</p><P>At nine this morning we started by automobile for the Hermit Trail, east of the Havasupai Indian Reservation. We drove by the long way seven and one-half miles to the head of Hermit Basin, over an excellent road, made on the very rim of the Canyon; at many places there is a drop of 2,000 feet sheer from within a rod of the edge of the road. Along the entire route the gigantic panorama of the Grand Canyon unfolds itself, a series of magnificent views.  We paused on Maricopa Point to enjoy the glorious spectacle before us and to see the impressive monument which has been erected to the memory of Maj. John W. Powell, who made the first explorations and survey of the Canyon.  The memorial is constructed of native rock and represents an Aztec sacrificial altar.</p><P>Arriving at the head of Hermit Trail we engaged one Dick Ray as guide, and, mounted on mules, we rode seven and one-half miles down the first 3,500 feet to Hermit Camp, which has been built on a plateau at the foot of a lofty peak.  The trail is four feet wide, well kept, and descends by what are called "easy grades."  Perhaps our mules found them so! We next descended to the foot of Hermit Basin, where <illus entity="a030-0103" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARY CABOT BRIGGS ON THE HERMIT TRAIL, GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA, OCT. 1, 1921</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:</p><illus entity="a030-0104" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>L. CABOT BRIGGS, MRS. L. V. BRIGGS, WITH THE GUIDE LEADING, GOING UP THE HERMIT TRAIL, OCT. 1, 1921</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:<P>the red wall begins.  From Red Top to Cathedral Stairs the trail leads along the steep east wall of Hermit Gorge, almost on a level, but at Cathedral Stairs we came to an abrupt descent through the blue limestone, by a succession of very short zigzags, which almost took our breath away, and we were glad of an hour's rest at the camp before proceeding down the new trail to the Colorado River, which lies at its foot, ten miles farther, and over 6,000 feet below the rim of the Canyon.  Here we had a marvelous river view and remained for over an hour, watching the long, narrow, very rough rapids. It is only by thus descending into the Canyon over this long and circuitous trail that one comes to any realization of the enormous sizes of the strange rock formations  We rode back over the ten miles of trail as far as Hermit Camp, 3,500 feet below the rim, where we were given a comfortable tent with pine floor and sides for the night.  Polly is to sleep in the shack and Cabot and I on the front porch.  It rained torrents in the night.  Folly rode beautifully today, as she always does, whatever her mount, and Cabot has a fine seat and handles himself perfectly, being afraid neither of steep precipices nor hazardous climbs and descents, even when his mule was kicking and jumping on the very edge of the trail. Our only companions on this day's journey were Mr. and Mrs. George Marden (or Martin), who are also spending the night at the camp.</p><P>OCTOBER 1.   The showers which laid the dust and cooled the air yesterday were so heavy in the night, with a strong wind, that everything got wet inside of our shack, and we were all more or less drenched.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:These showers have continued at intervals today. We breakfasted this morning at half-past six, under the shadow of Hermit Peak and within sound of the waters of a friendly creek; then we mounted our mules and started on our return journey in a driving rain. We reached the rim at 11.45  A.M., after much difficulty with our mules, who slipped badly on the wet stones. At times one or another of them refused to move until one of us got behind the obstinate animal and whipped him along. At the rim we found Curley, the chauffeur, and an automobile to take us back to El Tovar, only four miles by the short road.  The rain had abated for the last part of our journey, but just as we arrived at the hotel it began to pour again, and it rained hard all day, with the thermometer at 68 degrees.  The Canyon was filled with clouds and looked like a vast ocean beyond the rim.</p><P>OCTOBER 2. -- We spent a quiet morning in the neighborhood of the hotel, walking along the rim and enjoying the ever-changing views of the Canyon after the storm.  We left by train this evening at 7.45 for Williams, which lies at the base of Bill Williams Mountain, 9,000 feet high -- rather an uninteresting town of 1,500 inhabitants, some thirty-five miles from Flagstaff, Arizona.  Here we are to remain until morning, when we are to be picked up by the Overland Limited.</p><P>OCTOBER 3. -- We have been traveling all day through Arizona and New Mexico and have had glimpses of many Indian villages, -- Hopis, Navajoes, Apaches, Zunis and Pueblos.  We made some purchases from them when our train halted.  Cabot <illus entity="a030-0105" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARY CABOT BRIGGS AND HER SON, L. CABOT BRIGGS, AT THE FOOT OF HERMIT TRAIL ON THE COLORADO RIVER IN THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA, OCT. 1, 1921</p></CAPTION>
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030.sgm:bought a picture which he fancied from a Pueblo Indian and a bowl from a Zuni, and I purchased a very curious ring from a Zuni Indian, a greenish turquoise set in silver.  We have had a very interesting day; the weather has been cool and there has been almost no dust.</p><P>OCTOBER 5. -- Yesterday we passed through Kansas, and the weather was still delightful.  This morning we reached Chicago at 10.30 and found very pleasant rooms ready for us at the Drake Hotel, overlooking Lake Michigan and on its shores.  We spent the day sightseeing. First we visited the Art Museum, where we saw a remarkable exhibition of French masters, -- Monets, Daubignys, Corots, -- and one painting by Baque, but not as fine as my wife's "Coast Guard," by Baque.  Then we went to the Museum of Natural History, just being completed and still surrounded by the city dump.  From there we drove to Lincoln Park, where we arrived just in time to see the lions, tigers, jackals, bears and sea lions fed.  We lingered long before the great St. Gaudens statue of Lincoln, which seems to me the most lifelike statue in the whole world, and of the greatest man.</p><P>OCTOBER 7. -- We left Chicago at 11.30 yesterday and arrived in Boston at half-past three this afternoon.  At Springfield, Massachusetts, this morning, we were glad to see the familiar faces of Major Cort, who was with me in the A. E. F., and his wife, who had come to the station to greet us.  In Boston we were met by our own chauffeurs, George Davidson and Charles Blanchette, and were glad to get home again after a delightful trip.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX</HEAD><p>VISIT TO SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA, 1923</p>
030.sgm:<P>Once again I was summoned suddenly to California on account of my sister's serious illness.  Dr. Koefod's diagnosis, according to his telegram, was "subphrenic abscess," and as she desired me to come to her I left my family in Hancock, New Hampshire, where we were spending the summer, and hastened westward again.</p><P>On July 24, 1923, my wife saw me off on the 3.10 P.M. train from the South Station.  Soon after the train started I made the acquaintance of the other passenger in my section, a young man who had come to America from England for his health, R. Norman Bollans by name, whose home is in Wallasey, Cheshire, near Liverpool, where he is engaged in business with his father.  I found him a delightful fellow and the acquaintance begun at that time has lasted until the time of writing this book (1931).</p><P>Arriving at Chicago at 3 P.M. on July 25, Mr. Bollans and I walked about the city and had supper together at the LaSalle Street Station, where there is a most excellent restaurant; we left Chicago at 6.30 P.M. on the Golden State Limited.</p><P>JULY 26. -- We arrived at Kansas City at 8.15 A.M., breakfasted at the station, and left again at 9.05. All during the night it seemed as if we were passing nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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030.sgm:but trainloads of hogs, which almost continuously threw a disgusting odor into our car; it seemed to enter readily and be loath to leave.  There were five children in our car under six years of age, and between them they kept up an almost continual disturbance all night.  Today the temperature on the train was from 96 to 106 degrees, -- the latter at Pratt Station. JULY 27. -- The temperature in our car today was from 96 to 100 degrees, though at times we had a nice breeze from the east, but going in the same direction we received little benefit from it excepting when we stopped.  At El Paso my latest friend left me, but I met an interesting mining engineer who had resided for twenty-five years on the Mexican Border.  He says that it seldom rains more than 2 inches a year in this section.  He pointed out to me many "road runners," -- birds that look like poorly fed pheasants; he tells me that he has chased them on his horse for fifteen to twenty miles, but he never had a horse fast enough to catch up with one of them; they never fly or leave the ground, but always keep at least 30 to 50 feet ahead.  As we neared Cloudcroft (7,000 feet high), a famous summer resort, I discovered on the train a Mr. Biggey of El Paso, another mining engineer, and made friends with two little girls who were traveling alone, Vivian Crawford and her sister, aged eleven and nine years, whom I invited to dine with me tonight.</p><P>JULY 28. -- After a very hot night, -- the thermometer being 102 degrees until nearly noon today, when it rose to 104, -- we came to Salton Sea, a sheet of water forty miles long, which broke into the desert <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:twelve years ago, near India, where there is a large date orchard.  Today I met and talked with still another engineer, Chester B. Loomis, of Los Angeles. Near Colton we came to the Italian Syndicate Vineyards of over 40,000 acres, and passed through one 5,000-acre vineyard.  It was still very hot when we arrived at Los Angeles, where I changed cars for Santa Barbara.  I was met at the station there by Dr. Koefod, who took me to my rooms at the Arlington and then for dinner at the Carillo Adobe.  After dinner he drove me to Montecito, where he called on a patient, and then took me to the Cottage Hospital to see my little sister, who had been having a rest period during which I was forbidden to see her.  She is already improving, and, I am sure, is going to get well.  It is needless to say that we were very, very glad to see each other.</p><P>AUGUST 2. -- For the last few days I have spent much of the time with Velma, and this morning she greeted me with the words, "It is so nice to feel better!" I certainly feel repaid for having come.  During these days I have lunched with Miss Baylor; dined with Dr. Wills; lunched with Mrs. Benjamin Young, at the Arlington Hotel where we are both stopping; called on Mrs. Bacon, one of the delightful residents of Santa Barbara; and, under the guidance of Dr. Koefod, have also called on Peter Cooper Brice and Governor Dix, at their residences in Montecito, after which Dr. Koefod again took me to dinner at the Carillo Adobe, at 15 East Carillo Street.  My cousin Elizabeth Briggs is now staying in Santa Barbara, and I have had her to lunch with me; and I have called on Mr. and Mrs. John Wallace Brown and the <illus entity="a030-0106" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PRESIDENT AND MRS. WARREN G. HARDING, BRIGADIER GENERAL SAWYER ON HER RIGHT (IN UNIFORM), RECEIVING THEIR FRIENDS FROM MARION, OHIO, AT THE WHITE HOUSE, JUNE 10, 1921. L. V. BRIGGS PRESENT BUT NOT VISIBLE IN THE PICTURE.</p></CAPTION>
030.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:Matthew girls.  Today Dr. Koefod gave a delicious and well-served luncheon for me at the Montecito Country Club.  There were fourteen covers;  the guests, all physicians, included Drs. Adler, Hotchkiss, Williams, Henderson, Profant, Brush, Muzum, Sansome, Brown, Robinson, Ullmans, Pember.  After lunch, Dr. Koefod left me at the Cottage Hospital, where I am spending as much time as possible with my sister.</p><P>That summer President Warren G. Harding, against the advice of his physicians and friends, had made a trip to the northwest coast, where it was reported that he had ptomaine poisoning. On his reaching San Francisco, the newspapers came out with the statement that the President had pneumonia.</p><P>Attending Mr. Harding on his trip were two physicians, Brigadier-General Charles E. Sawyer, the White House physician, and Dr. Hubert Work, the Secretary of the Interior.  Having been more or less intimately associated in my work for the veterans with both President Harding and Brigadier-General Sawyer, and knowing both Dr. Sawyer and Dr. Work to be psychiatrists and probably not in touch with the latest methods of internal medicine, I sent special delivery letters to both of these physicians, setting forth my opinion that they, as psychiatrists, should have the best medical advice obtainable to assist them in the responsibility in the care of the President, who was so seriously ill of pneumonia; and I recommended as such an expert Dr. Hilmer O. Koefod, whose successful work with pneumonia 1 had seen in several cases in Santa Barbara.  My letters arrived in San Francisco on August 1, and Dr. Work immediately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:answered, his letter being postmarked 6.30 P.M.,saying that the President was improving rapidly, and that they did not anticipate any serious complication. Dr. Sawyer's answer was also written promptly and was evidently mailed before the President died, but it was not postmarked until 9.30; in it he said that the President was progressing satisfactorily, but that, should any untoward symptoms present themselves, he would call upon me to send Dr. Koefod to him. These letters were postmarked, the one at 6.30 and the other at 9.30  P.M.  The President died in San Francisco at 7.30 that same evening of apoplexy, according to the physicians in attendance.  According to the papers which I had read Drs. Sawyer and Work were assuming the entire responsibility for the President's treatment, and I did not know until later that Drs. Ray Lyman Wilbur, C. M. Cooper and J. T. Boone were associated with them as consultants, and Drs. Wilbur and Cooper had been issuing official bulletins, which I quote below, although the papers headlined Drs. Sawyer and Work as the leading physicians in attendance.  It seems to me rather unfortunate that none of the physicians in attendance upon Mr. Harding have made answer, so far as I have been able to ascertain, to the insinuations of Gaston Means in his recent book that President Harding was poisoned.  One might say that no attention should be paid to a man of Means' reputation; but the fact remains that his book is reported to have been one of the best sellers in England during this last year, 1930, and it seems to me that at least it is the duty of these physicians to inform the English-speaking people, here and abroad, of the facts of the case, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:so far as they know them.  They should also, if they are in a position to know, refute the reports which have been rampant in Washington since Mr. Harding's death, that he committed suicide.  These events are of importance as history, and a full report should be made while so many of the physicians who attended him are alive.  Already Dr. Charles E. Sawyer of Marion, Ohio, has died.  He was the lifelong friend of President Harding, whom the President appointed to be the White House physician, with the rank of Brigadier-General.  When Calvin Coolidge succeeded to the presidency he retained Dr. Sawyer as physician to the White House, and also appointed him as head of the Hospitalization Board, to co-ordinate the government's program for giving hospital treatment to the wounded veterans of the World War. In June, 1924, Dr. Sawyer announced his retirement from his position at the White House, stating that he expected to devote himself to the upbuilding of the Harding Memorial Association.  His life was marked by intense personal devotion to the President and his wife, both of whom he served until he passed on.</p><P>AUGUST 7. -- This morning I left Santa Barbara at seven, first telephoning to the hospital and finding that Velma was still sleeping.  It was deliciously cool when we started, but at Indio, a station on the Southern Pacific Railroad, it was 104 degrees in the shade, and it was still warmer when eve reached a point near Salton, 264 feet below sea level.</p><P>AUGUST 9. -- Arrived at Kansas City at six this morning; very hot, muggy and dusty.  It was hot all day yesterday, but local showers had laid most of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
030.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
030.sgm:the dust in the country through which we passed, especially at El Paso, which is 3,700 feet above sea level.  The highest point we reached was at Corono, New Mexico, 6,666 feet.</p><P>AUGUST 11. -- Changing cars at Chicago yesterday, I took the Twentieth Century Limited at 12.40 noon, and arrived at the South Station at 12 noon today, where Polly and Karl Anderson met me. We all spent the night at our house (64 Beacon Street, Boston) and the next morning left for Wiscasset Inn, Wiscasset, Maine, in order to visit my son Cabot, who is in Camp Chewonki, Mr. Clarence Allen's camp, near there.</p></DIV>
031.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-031</TITLE>
031.sgm:<TITLE>Life in the open; sport with rod, gun, horse, and hound in southern California: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
031.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
031.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
031.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
031.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
031.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
031.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
031.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>06-12862</LCCN>
031.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
031.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 142072</COPYRIGHT>
031.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<illus entity="a031-0001" MAP="no"><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<CAPTION><P>Charles F. Holder with the Valley Hunt Hounds. This pack of hounds was the most famous in Southern California.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Life in the Open</HI>
031.sgm: Sport with Rod, Gun<LB>Horse, and Hound<LB>In Southern California</P>
031.sgm:<P>By  Charles Frederick Holder<LB>Author of "Life of Charles Darwin," "The Big Game Fishes"<LB>"The Adventures of Torqua," etc.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Illustrated</P>
031.sgm:<P>G. P. Putnam's Sons<LB>New York and London</P>
031.sgm:<P>The Knickerbocker Press<LB>1906</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1906 BY CHARLES FREDERICK HOLDER<LB>The Knickerbocker Press, New York</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iii</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Preface</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>IN presenting these impressions of outdoor life and sport in Southern California during twenty or more years along shore and the Sierra Madre, I should perhaps say that the point of view has been one of personal experience alone, and the hunting days described are as I found and tried to make them.</P>
031.sgm:<P>My conception of sport does not include a desperate killing, a plethoric bag or creel; the game is merely an incident in the day, and in the splendid ca&ntilde;ons of the Sierra Madre, I confess, has often been forgotten. A hunting day, at least to my mind, should include a drawing for all the senses, not game alone, but the enjoyment of the flora, the variety in mountain view, the vistas of different kinds, the charming changes of colour and tone that sweep over the range as the hours pass, and the thousand and one diversions which nature always affords.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Southern California lends itself particularly to such a definition of sport; its hunting grounds are staged with unwonted effects--lofty mountains, pallid deserts, seas of turquoise abounding not only in countless game fishes, but in a marvellous variety of living forms which appeal to the sportsman and fill out his days with &aelig;sthetic as well as practical experiences.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>There is hardly wild game, big or small, in America that is not menaced by the spectre of extinction, and were it not for game laws, clubs of gentlemen, sportsmen of various kinds, wild life would in a short time disappear from the face of the earth.  It should be the duty of every sportsman to conserve the gifts of nature. Sport with the gun, rod, spear, and hound is legitimate and manly, but there is an unwritten law among gentlemen that no sportsman will kill more than the camp demands, or rational sport justifies.  The rod catch of tarpons last season at Tarpon, Texas, was nearly eight hundred fish, yet every one not needed as a trophy was released.  I can conceive no greater example of self-control than that illustrated by the angler who stops fishing when but two tunas have been caught, though the waters are covered with schools eager for the lure; yet I have witnessed this marvellous thing.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Southern California is an open book the year around. Every day, winter or summer, has its invitation to the lover of sport or nature; not only in the south but throughout the length of the land.  The present volume is confined to Southern California, as to cover the entire State  adequately would require much more space.   Northern California possesses even greater natural wonders than the south and more big game, at least among  land  animals.  The section  described includes the region south of Point Conception, the counties of Santa Barbara, San Buenaventura, Los Angeles, San Bernardino, Riverside, Orange, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The conditions are so different from those in Eastern America, the winter being the season of flowers, the entire year an open one, inviting sports and varied pastimes, that I have tried to convey to the reader some idea of "life in the open" in the various seasons, what to expect winter, or summer, in this land of the palm and orange, and to a certain extent to answer some of the questions relating to the country which I have often been asked.  Thus, to the world at large, Southern California is merely a winter resort.  This is a popular misconception.  It is, to my mind at least, a far better summer resort, and the dwellers along its shores and among the channel islands know an almost perfect summer climate, and never experience the intense often deadly, heat of the Atlantic seaboard.  The truth about Southern California is that it is an all-the-year-round land, where it can honestly be said the disagreeable features of life and climate are reduced to the minimum.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Southern California is so cosmopolitan that it belongs to all America, and in this oasis between the desert and the deep sea the country has a possession that will prove in years to come one of its most valuable assets. Yesterday it was a great ranch; to-day it is a principality, and has taken its place among the great and active centres of life, health, and commerce of the world.</P>
031.sgm:<P><HSEP>C. F. H.<LB>PASADENA, CALIFORNIA.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Contents</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>CHAPTER I.<LB>ACROSS COUNTRY WITH GREYHOUNDS<HSEP>1<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>HUNTING THE LYNX<HSEP>17<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>DEER-HUNTING IN THE SOUTHERN SIERRAS<HSEP>37<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>WATER FOWL<HSEP>49<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>FOX-HUNTING IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>63<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>A RAINBOW IN THE SIERRA MADRE<HSEP>79<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>FOLLOWING THE LOWLAND WOLF<HSEP>101<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>SHORE AND OTHER BIRDS<HSEP>119<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>THE BIGHORN<HSEP>127<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>THE HOME OF THE MOUNTAIN LION<HSEP>135</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XI.<LB>THE VALLEY QUAIL<HSEP>153<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>THE HEART OF THE DESERT<HSEP>165<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>EL CAMINO REAL<HSEP>179<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>LIFE IN THE SIERRA MADRE<HSEP>209<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>THE WILD GOAT ON ORIZABA<HSEP>223<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>THE RISE OF DON ANTONIO<HSEP>235<LB>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>THE ROYAL CATCH<HSEP>259<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>SANTA CATALINA ISLAND<HSEP>273<LB>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>THE SEA LION'S DEN<HSEP>287<LB>CHAPTER XX.<LB>TROLLING IN DEEP WATER<HSEP>299<LB>CHAPTER XXI.<LB>THE CALIFORNIA WEAKFISH<HSEP>307</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXII.<LB>A WINDOW OF THE SEA<HSEP>315<LB>CHAPTER XXIII.<LB>CRUISING AMONG THE CHANNEL ISLANDS<HSEP>327<LB>CHAPTER XXIV.<LB>THE STILL ANGLER<HSEP>341<LB>CHAPTER XXV.<LB>THE TRIBE OF SERIOLA<HSEP>349<LB>CHAPTER XXVI.<LB>THE CLIMATE<HSEP>359<LB>APPENDIX<HSEP>381<LB>GAME LAWS<HSEP>387<LB>INDEX<HSEP>397</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>Illustrations</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>CHARLES F. HOLDER AND THE VALLEY HUNT HOUNDS.  <HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
031.sgm:<LB>WINTER BLOSSOM OF THE EUCALYPTUS<HSEP>1<LB>RUINS OF THE CHAPEL MISSION OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO, ON EL CAMINO REAL<HSEP>4<LB>A SUDDEN TURN, OBSERVED BY THE AUTHOR<HSEP>8<LB>CHARLES WINSTON'S SUNNY SLOPE HOUNDS<HSEP>12<LB><HSEP>Photo by Crandall<LB>WALK AT THE MISSION Or SANTA BARBARA ON EL CAMINO REAL<HSEP>14<LB>THE TREED LYNX<HSEP>17<LB>LYNX HUNTING, CA&Ntilde;ADA SANTIAGO, NEAR ORANGE<HSEP>22<LB>TREED LYNX.  SANTIAGO CLUB, NEAR FULLERTON<HSEP>24<LB>THE BELLS OF MISSION SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL, NEAR PASADENA<HSEP>28<LB>VALLEY HUNT FOX HOUND--PASADENA<HSEP>30<LB><HSEP>Photo by Crandall<LB>THE TRAIL OF THE LYNX HUNTERS, NEAR EL TORO<HSEP>34<LB><HSEP>Photo by Graham<LB>CALIFORNIA HOLLY, ADENOSTOMA<HSEP>37<LB>HE VISITS RANCH GARDENS EARLY IN THE MORNING<HSEP>42</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>DEER IN THE OPEN<HSEP>46<LB>BRINGING IN THE DUCKS AT BALSA CHICA<HSEP>49<LB>MISSION OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO ON THE KING'S HIGHWAY<HSEP>54<LB>A GOOD DAY FOR CANVAS-BACKS AT BALSA CHICA<HSEP>58<LB>AN HOUR'S GOOSE SHOOTING<HSEP>60<LB>THE TREED FOX<HSEP>63<LB>WINTER LIFE IN THE OPEN NEAR PASADENA<HSEP>70<LB><HSEP>Photo by Graham<LB>FOX-HUNTING COUNTRY NEAR ORANGE, SANTIAGO MTS.<HSEP>74<LB><HSEP>Photo by Graham<LB>RAINBOW TROUT--BEAR VALLEY LAKE<HSEP>79<LB>THE STAIRS OF THE MISSION OF SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL, NEAR PASADENA ON THE KING'S HIGHWAY<HSEP>84<LB><HSEP>Photo by H. A. Parker<LB>DOCTOR PAGE CASTING IN THE UPPER BIG POOL, DEEP CREEK, SAN BERNARDINO RANGE<HSEP>88<LB>WINTER IN THE SIERRA MADRE NEAR SAN DIEGO<HSEP>92<LB>THE NORTH FORK OF THE SAN JACINTO RIVER, SAN JACINTO MOUNTAINS<HSEP>98<LB>THE SANTIAGO HUNT<HSEP>101<LB>IN AT THE DEATH, SANTIAGO HUNT NEAR ORANGE<HSEP>108<LB>SAN LUIS OBISPO DE TOLOSA ON EL CAMINO REAL (KING'S HIGHWAY)<HSEP>112<LB><HSEP>Photo by Putnam &amp; Valentine<LB>SANTIAGO HUNT BREAKFAST NEAR SANTA ANA<HSEP>116<LB>THE WAVES AT CORONADO<HSEP>119<LB>GULLS AT AVALON BAY<HSEP>122</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>CASTLE ROCK, SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>124<LB>MOUNT SAN ANTONIO FROM REDLANDS<HSEP>127<LB>MOUNT SAN JACINTO<HSEP>135<LB>GARDEN OF THE MISSION OF SANTA BARBARA IN EL CAMINO REAL<HSEP>140<LB><HSEP>Photo by H. A Parker<LB>HAUNTS OF THE MOUNTAIN LION, AND GRIZZLY PEAK<HSEP>144<LB>PASADENA IN WINTER.  FLOWERS AND SNOW<HSEP>153<LB>HAUNTS OF THE VALLEY QUAIL NEAR PASADENA COUNTRY CLUB<HSEP>158<LB><HSEP>Photo by Graham<LB>DECANSO BAY-A WHITE SEA-BASS CORNER, SANTA CATALINA<HSEP>160<LB><HSEP>Photo by Chas. Ironmonger<LB>A CACTUS GARDEN<HSEP>165<LB>A DESERT FOREST. NATIVE PALMS NEAR PALM SPRINGS, CALIFORNIA<HSEP>170<LB><HSEP>Photo by Putnam &amp; Valentine<LB>CANDLE CACTUS.  LOWER CALIFORNIA AND ARIZONA<HSEP>174<LB><HSEP>Photo by Putnam &amp; Valentine<LB>MISSION OF SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>179<LB>PAMPAS GRASS, SAN DIEGO, ON EL CAMINO REAL<HSEP>186<LB><HSEP>Photo by H. A. Clarke<LB>PALMS OF THE MISSION OF SAN FERNANDO REY ON THE KING'S HIGHWAY<HSEP>190<LB><HSEP>Photo by C. C. Pierce<LB>AN AVENUE OF PALMS, LOS ANGELES<HSEP>194<LB>MISSION OF SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA AND DATE PALMS ON EL CAMINO REAL<HSEP>198<LB><HSEP>Photo by C. C. Pierce<LB>MISSION OF SAN LUIS REY DE FRANCIA ON THE OLD KING'S HIGHWAY<HSEP>202<LB>RUINS OF THE MISSION OF SAN ANTONIO DE PALA<HSEP>206</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>ORANGE TREE<HSEP>209<LB>MISSION OF SAN BUENAVENTURA ON EL CAMINO REAL<HSEP>212<LB><HSEP>Photo C. C. Pierce<LB>ELEPHANT HEADS AND CAVES OF LA JOLLA NEAR SAN DIEGO<HSEP>214<LB>SANTA ANITA RANCH, ARCADIA, SAN GABRIEL VALLEY<HSEP>218<LB><HSEP>Photo by Putnam &amp; Valentine<LB>CLUSTER LILY, BRODI&AElig;A<HSEP>223<LB>WILD GOAT SHOOTING FROM A BOAT, SANTA CATALINA<HSEP>228<LB>A BLACK SEA-BASS TOURNAMENTS<HSEP>235<LB>CATCH OF A BLACK SEA-BASS WITH ROD AND REEL<HSEP>240<LB><HSEP>Photo by Chas. Ironmonger<LB>LA PURISSIMA CONCEPCION MISSION ON THE KING'S HIGHWAY<HSEP>248<LB>MISSION OF SAN MIGUEL ON EL CAMINO REAL (KING'S HIGH WAY)<HSEP>254<LB>A MORNING CATCH BY THE AUTHOR<HSEP>259<LB>LANDING THE LEAPING TUNA<HSEP>268<LB><HSEP>Photo by Chas. Ironmonger<LB>LETTING THEM OUT<HSEP>273<LB>SIX-IN-HAND SWINGING AROUND THE LOOP<HSEP>278<LB>BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF THE COACH ROAD<HSEP>284<LB>SEA-LION ROOKERY<HSEP>287<LB>SEA-LION ROOKERY AT SANTA CATALINA ISLAND<HSEP>294<LB>TYPICAL FISHING BOAT AND YELLOW-FIN ALBACORE<HSEP>299<LB>CATCH OF BLACK SEA-BASS AND ALBACORE AT SANTA CATALINA BY A WAITING MEMBER OF THE ANANIAS CLUB<HSEP>302<LB>THE OCEANIC BONITO<HSEP>304<LB><HSEP>Photo by Chas. Ironmonger<LB>MR. HARDING'S RECORD WHITE SEA-BASS<HSEP>307</P>
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031.sgm:<P>MOUNT SAN ANTONIO (10,120 FEET), HOME OF MOUNTAIN SHEEP<HSEP>312<LB>THE GLASS-BOTTOM BOATS OF AVALON<HSEP>315<LB>BLACK AND WHITE SEA-URCHINS<HSEP>318<LB><HSEP>Photo by P. Reise<LB>IN THE HANGING GARDENS<HSEP>322<LB><HSEP>Photo by Chas. Ironmonger<LB>THE GLASS-BOTTOM BOAT, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND<HSEP>324<LB>AVALON<HSEP>327<LB>THE BAY AND VALE OF AVALON<HSEP>332<LB><HSEP>Photo by Chas. Ironmonger<LB>FERN CANON, SANTA CRUZ ISLAND<HSEP>336<LB><HSEP>Photo by P. Reise<LB>THE VALE OF AVALON. PICTURESQUE GOLF LINKS AT SANTA CATALINA<HSEP>338<LB>GAFFING AT SHEEPS' HEAD, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND<HSEP>341<LB>BEACH FISHING FOR LEAPING SHARKS, CATALINA HARBOUR<HSEP>344<LB><HSEP>Photo by Chas. Ironmonger<LB>A 300-FOOT WAVE AT SAN PEDRO<HSEP>346<LB><HSEP>Photo by Graham<LB>A MORNING'S ROD CATCH OF YELLOW-TAIL<HSEP>349<LB>TAKING THE YELLOW-TAIL<HSEP>352<LB>A GOOD CORNER FOR YELLOW-TAIL<HSEP>356<LB>THE GOLD OF OPHIR ROSE<HSEP>359<LB>WINTER FLOWERS AT ALTADENA, SAN GABRIEL VALLEY<HSEP>362<LB><HSEP>Photo by H. A. Parker<LB>WINTER VERDURE IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>366<LB><HSEP>Photo by H. A. Parker<LB>A REDLANDS ORANGE GROVE AND HOME IN WINTER<HSEP>368<LB>PASADENA'S VARIED CLIMATES<HSEP>374<LB>PASADENA'S VARIED CLIMATES (Continued)<HSEP>378</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter I</HEAD>
031.sgm:<LB>Across Country with Greyhounds<P>THE first rain had come.  The mountains were smiling at the distant sea, the air was clear as crystal, and had a rich vibrant quality.  The long, feathery lines of white clouds which marked the time of rain had disappeared.  No more the dust spout sailed swaggering down along the Puente Hills; instead, processions of geese and cranes flew along the high Sierras, headed to the south.  The grey hills were melting into other and deeper tints, and the seeds of alfileria, that had formed a grey mat almost everywhere, were twisting, boring into the ground, and painting the hills, lowlands, and mesa in emerald hues.  There was a crispness to the air; every tree and bush was washed clean; the groves of the tall plume-like eucalyptus seemed nearer and greener, and along the highways vivid pink mattings were growing, telling that a marvellous change was imminent.  In a word, it was near Christmas time in Southern California, and uncompromising winter, with its roses, its fields of wild flowers, was setting in.</P>
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031.sgm:<P>In the valley, one could hear the clang of bells of the Mission of San Gabriel as they rang out, three miles away, and beyond El Toro, over the divide Don Benito, listen to the chimes of San Juan Capistrano as they chanted to the sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>On such a morning I came down on to the mesa from Las Cacitas, a spur of the Sierra Madre, where I was living, rode through the deep ca&ntilde;on, whose oaks and bays were dripping with dazzling radiance, and as I came out on to the mesa, from which I could see the islands offshore; fifty miles distant, I heard the tremulous melody of a horn.  It came from the direction of Los Robles, and as I rode on through the brush, my horse tossing the odours of sage and other fragrant plants into the air, out from the long lines of eucalyptus trees came the hunt, the horses with their Spanish saddles and fascinating montad&uacute;ra, and in a blue and tan bunch the dogs, greyhounds of high degree, that had left San Marino an hour or more before.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The country was open for miles near the Sierra Madre, which rose abruptly from the mesa, the land sandy below Las Cacitas, and covered with sage and low chaparral; here an eucalyptus grove, a young olive orchard, and a vineyard, but in the main, open country, so that one could see several miles in almost every direction.  This was the home of the jack rabbit or hare, said to be the fastest runner and to possess better staying powers than any animal known, a tree girdler, an enemy of the rancher.  Sure of his powers, he lived in <illus entity="a031-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Ruins of the Chapel, Mission of San Juan Capistrano, on El Camino Real.</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>There were twenty or more hunters, all well mounted on wiry fast-running horses, the master of the hounds in the lead behind the dogs.  There were greetings, mutual congratulations that you were alive in God's country on such a day, and some men took off their sombreros at the splendid tints and colours of the mountains that, a wall of rock, five or six thousand feet- high and forty miles wide, shut out the land and valley from the rest of the world.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The hunt moved slowly along the eucalyptus groves, then at the word turned in, each horse taking a line or avenue, the dogs spreading out.  Down the long, leafy parterres you could see blue vistas of sky, catch glimpses of distant mountains, while the air was filled with the aroma of the eucalyptus as the horses' hoofs cut the underbrush.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The plan was to sweep through the grove and drive out any jack that might be lying there.  When halfway through, a quick cry from the master of hounds gave the word to the dogs, that dashed ahead, out into the open, twenty yards or so behind a jaunty, fluffy, tall-eared thing that bounded on as though its feet bore rubber cushions, while with a roar of sounds the hunt swept on in a long line at full and splendid speed.</P>
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031.sgm:<P>There is nothing more inspiring than a cavalry charge, and this hunt was a diminutive replica of one. The horses were eager for the chase, knowing well the meaning of the shout, and at once broke into a wild run; and when they cleared the grove the dogs could be seen reaching out in long lines and the bounding jack melting away into space.  At this stage of the run he is enjoying himself at our expense.  His long ears are up, and as stiff as rods of steel.  He runs by bounds and has an air of disdain.  The speed is increasing every moment.  The master of the hounds by virtue of his office is directly behind them, and after him, never overriding the pack, come the fortunate ones who can keep their place.  Already some are left far behind, but a few horses are well to the fore and running at a pace, that considering the country, would bring a cheer from the grandstand at Ascot.  The jack runs through a patch of sage-brush, then turns slightly and crosses an orchard, and here is turned cleverly by old Ramon.  He runs over a great white wash, bounding down its dangerous sides until it ends, then alarmed by the determined thunder of bounding hoofs, he turns gradually and makes for the upper mesa.  Suddenly the master of the hounds shouts a warning.  Some turn at the brink of a knife-like cut or wash, ten feet deep, over which the jack goes like a cannon ball.  You see that he is taking in sails, is not so disdainful; his ears are lying partly back over his shoulders, and the wonderful hind legs are working quicker and driving him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>But the horses know the place well, and just at the end the dogs close in and turn again, forcing the hare down through the level field.  You see him now, not fifty feet ahead; not the jocund tree girdler that bounded out of the eucalyptus grove half an hour before, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The jack apparently disappears; horses are jerked on to their haunches, a cloud of dust rises, dogs reach out and snap at something as it passes, phantom-like, and you and I and the master of the hounds are away on exactly the back track, and the jack has gained one hundred feet.  If you have been at the front you will know what it all means.  The jack stopped suddenly, turned about a clump of sage in the open, and dashed back directly beneath the horses' feeL  Mouse, my own hound, misses him by the length of a tail, and other hounds snap at him as he goes by, unable to stop themselves, while the clever hare, taking all the chances, dashes beneath the horses, and makes a splendid play for liberty.  This turn is shown in the accompanying picture<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
031.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Page -.</NOTE>
031.sgm:<P>In five minutes the horses and riders that have stood <illus entity="a031-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">A Sudden Turn observed by the Author</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The ranch house is straight ahead, and my friend has a long wide hall running through it, for which the jack apparently is headed. I am wondering---- whether will object to the hunt running through his home, when out he comes with arms uplifted.  He <HI REND="italics">does</HI>
031.sgm:<P>It is a famous run.  The death or finish was three miles from the start as the crow flies. The dogs are lying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Such was a typical run with the San Marino or the Valley Hunt hounds of Pasadena; hard, furious, dangerous sport, the hare having an open country and by far the advantage.  To ride over such a region with its washes and burrows, the rider took every chance, and the game often escaped; wearing out horse, rider, and hound.  There can hardly be any pastime within the realm of sport more exciting than this.  It was my fortune to act as master of the hounds in many hunts, and my place was directly behind the dogs, where every move of hound or game could be seen; and as a study of strenuous sport it was without peer; horses and dogs enjoyed it, the jack being the only exception, and he was a pest and menace to the rancher.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The hunt, refreshed, winds out of the grove and turns in the direction of the mountains, following along the slopes.  It is midwinter in the East, the whole land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Another hare is started and the hunt is again in full run, sweeping up to the foot of the mountains, down into vineyards, where often several jacks are started; but the hounds concentrate their attention on one, and the finish comes up near the entrance to the ca&ntilde;on Las Flores, where the drags, coaches, and carriages have met. Lunch is laid under the trees in some adjacent grove, and the incidents and events of the hunt are again discussed and good dogs are rewarded.  Such a hunt well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Many towns and cities have spread out over the land, and Southern California bids fair to become over-civilised and settled up.  But the jack rabbit is not to be crowded out.  A wily fellow lives near my home, and I have seen him entertaining himself by leading the dogs down a wide avenue, a fashionable thoroughfare of the town; and in the suburbs he may be always found. This is true of all the foothill cities from Pomona and Ontario to Riverside and Redlands and beyond, while San Diego and Coronado afford excellent fields for this adventurous pastime.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There is also excellent sport to be had on the ranches near Santa Ana and Orange, and in valleys near the San Joaquin, one of the most successful hunts in the history of the Valley Hunt of Pasadena being near Orange, where it was the guest of the Count and Countess von Schmidt.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In the vicinity of Los Angeles the best hunting localities are the San Fernando Valley and the lower reaches and washes of Baldwin's ranch, which may give one an excuse to ride through this splendid domain, with its groves of eucalyptus, orange, and lemon, and its charming vistas of land and laguna.  Some of the best hunting I have had in Southern California has been in the southern part of this ranch and near Sunny Slope ranch, where a pack of fine greyhounds is maintained to reduce the tree and vine girdlers; and nearly all <illus entity="a031-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Charles Winston's Sunny Slope Hounds--La Manda</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The jack rabbit is a hare, and nests on the surface, rarely if ever taking to burrows or anything of the kind. He prefers to run in the open, to dodge behind hedges and trees.  For many years I hunted with my own dogs, and, when President of the Valley Hunt, often acted as master of the hounds, when it was my duty to keep up with the pack and direct it on the runs; consequently I had many opportunities to watch the dogs and game in all stages of the chase.  The Valley Hunt pack of ten or fifteen hounds was in charge of a huntsman or keeper, and generally there were two masters of hounds, members of the club, who took charge of the dogs on a hunt, and went with them, a hard riding position.  Courtesy required that the hunt should not pass him; indeed, it was the duty of the one in charge to see that excited members did not override the hounds.  The hunt could keep as near the master of the hounds as it could get, but could not pass. When the game reached cover, he had to keep the jack in sight, and see that the dogs obeyed his call; and so well did the hounds understand this, that often they would not lose a foot, though they lost sight of the game for several minutes. A greyhound named "Mouse "would, in high grass, leap on to my horse behind my saddle, and, with one arm over her, I would ride slowly along. When a hare was started she would see it, note its direction, leap down, and rarely miss it. It is sometimes said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The jack will often nonplus a very clever dog. I once made a long run nearly to the mountains, and when at the upper rise of the mesa, horse, dog, and hare began to give out.  After a while we came down to a trot, then to a walk, and the jack, apparently scarcely able to move, ran to a big fir tree, and around it several times, chased by the hound, that was so desperately winded that she could not catch the jack.  I reined in my horse, not twenty feet distant, and watched the absurd <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;no&ucirc;ment</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Such sport as this is not to be confused with "coursing "--a cowardly, brutal game that cannot hold its own in any country among gentlemen.  The hare is released in an enclosure and chased by hounds, with no possible chance of escape; while in the open, in a fair chase across country, the chances are against the rider, <illus entity="a031-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Walk at the Mission of Santa Barbara on El Camino Real</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The hunt breakfast ends, the well-rested horses and hounds walk slowly down the valley again, on the lookout for game, the carriages and drags following, stopping here and there to see the exciting runs; and late in the afternoon, perhaps, the hunt winds down the long sweeping mesa, headed for home, that may be ten miles away, if the run has led them down to the Baldwin wash, or it may be but a mile; but no matter where, the weary riders have the panorama of the hills as Inspiration.  As the sun sinks behind the western peaks of the Coast Range, a splendid transformation scene is staged on slope and mesa.  The tips of the Sierras are wreathed with light, and out from each ca&ntilde;on and gulch dark shadows creep, encroaching slowly on the fields of yellow and gold.  Slowly the hills take on a roseate hue that grows in intensity and splendour as the sun drops into the sea.  Deeper it becomes; now crimson, then scarlet, a gorgeous drapery that slowly fades and melts into purple until the entire range, except where the snow-caps of San Antonio are bathed in the fiery glow, is invested with the deep panoply of night.</P>
031.sgm:<P>From down the valley, filtering through the windbreaks of eucalpytus trees, comes softly on the wind the flute-like tremulo of the horn--the <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter II</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Hunting the Lynx</P>
031.sgm:<P>ONE of the charms of Southern California lies in the fact that the towns and many cities are within a stone's throw of the open country, or the mountains.  Los Angeles is but thirteen miles from the main range of the Sierra Madre, a jumble of mountains so steep and forbidding that trained mountaineers have been confused by their precipitous ca&ntilde;ons and sharp divides.  There is hardly a village, town, or city where wild country is not available in some form in a short distance. The stroller up the east branch of the Los Angeles River, the Arroyo Seco, is led by agreeable paths on this winter day into a ca&ntilde;on, down which a small stream flows, now on the surface, again sinking beneath it, flowing on and on to the distant sea.  Here it has high banks, and has cut into a series of hills that are a blaze of yellow, carpeted with a small daisy-like flower. Everywhere the river-bed is filled with polished stones, and along the banks patches of silver foxtail grass nod in the sunlight, and in the shallows windrows of mica gleam in lines of gold.</P>
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031.sgm:<P>The hills grow higher.  Here they are undermined, the talus partly covered by masses of wild oat whose surface ripples in catspaws in changing tints of green. Along the low left bank are lavender flashes among the rocks, telling of the wild pea, while the yellow glow of the primrose and the blue of the larkspur are caught against the green of the chaparral.  Soon the arroyo widens, and live oaks are seen in a little basin.  The sullen roar of the city is still heard, but the sky is bright, the sweet song of birds fills the air.  Surely it is not February along this verdant arroyo?  You may climb the hill and look out over distant fields of rippling grain and a marvellous coat of green that robes the land from mountains to the sea.  Winter it is, fair and uncompromising, permitting flowers, soft air, and clear skies. Not the winter of the tropics, hot and enervating, but a winter of content, crisp, with just a soup&ccedil;on of frost in the early morning to make the scent good and clear.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The scent, ah! that is what you are after.  Are you not on horseback? and there, standing under the oaks, is Don A ----, with his famous foxhounds, Melody, Music, and others, and coming down the road are other hunters and the hounds of the Valley Hunt.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The meet is at the <HI REND="italics">cienaga</HI>
031.sgm:, and it is proposed to work the green hills to the east and south for the lynx, common game in Southern California, game that uses the big arroyo and washes as highways from the mountains.  All the hunters are mounted, and Don A ---- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:sounds his silver-throated horn, calls in the straying dogs, and outlines the plan of action.  A few hunters are to go around the hill with the hounds, the rest are to remain in the arroyo and keep the game within bounds.  You elect to go, and, making a long detour, climb the slopes, the hounds entering the hills.  Already Music has the scent, and the blood-stirring melody, like nothing else in the world, comes rippling through the air, <HI REND="italics">O-O-o-o</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Again comes the baying of the hounds, pouring over the hill and dropping into the little ca&ntilde;ada, to be taken up by others.  The hilltops here, six or eight hundred feet above the sea, one hundred or more above the arroyo, form a spur of the Sierra Madre, that reaches down toward Los Angeles and to the east, merging into the Puente Hills, a splendid winter highway for game where there is cover, and for coyotes at any time.  On the surface were disconnected bunches of low brush, giving the slopes a park-like effect, and farther on groves of white oak with spreading branches beneath which nodded the shooting-star, the mariposa lily and the graceful stalks of Brod&aelig;a.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Into this garden of the hills the hounds ran just ahead of my horse, following the scent, now and then baying soft and low, working through the tall grass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The hounds were now running at full speed, past the cactus patches, along rocky slopes, down into a deep ca&ntilde;on where the baying broke into a roar, and then over the edge of the arroyo a fourth of a mile above, where my horse, settling down upon his haunches, slid down with the miniature avalanche, then running down-stream at full speed to find the hounds out on the face of a cliff crawling along on narrow ledges, slipping and rolling, while in the very centre of the stage, in full sight, was the lynx.  She appeared to ignore the hounds, stopping now and then to glance behind, then picking her way along, step by step, looking down at the horses, again stopping to weigh the chances of the situation.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It seemed impossible for a dog to reach her, but Don A---- and I knew that Music was a sort of canine fly, and he quickly gave a vivid demonstration of it, crawling out on the trail of the big cat, now perfectly silent, while other dogs made the arroyo ring with sounds. The lynx was surrounded.  She faced a dog in front, <illus entity="a031-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Lynx Hunting, Can&atilde;da de Santiago, near Orange</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>It was a brave and clever trick, as a dozen jaws snapped at her, but when she struck the rock she seemed to bound into the air, and dashed among the feet of plunging horses, making a run of perhaps one hundred yards, and when the hunt recovered from its surprise she was sitting in the top of a large oak, her eyes gleaming fire, her short tail twitching, treed, but not caught, and around the trunk gathered the pack baying, filling the air with what were now menacing sounds.  The trunk of the tree stood at an angle, and Ranger, an old tree-climber, was presently fifteen feet up and out on a limb, from which he had to be helped down.  Some of these dogs were marvellous tree-climbers, but even a dog is helpless where he can fall.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I hauled myself from the saddle into the tree and climbed slowly upward.  The lynx did not move until I had reached a point within twenty feet of her, where I sat a moment and looked her over.  She was a miniature lynx, with small tufted ears, a rich spotted coat, and pronounced reddish "whiskers."  The head was large, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>When I made an offensive movement, she stood up, showing the long, powerful legs and the short tail, which was twitching from side to side in a significant fashion.  I climbed higher and thrust a branch at her, whereupon she darted out on to a limb, and with one glance and snarl at me, went crashing down through the resilient screen of green into the pack.</P>
031.sgm:<P>When I dropped on to my horse again, the hunt was sweeping up the arroyo and through the chaparral; coming to a cliff the lynx clambered up the side, but was again driven out, two dogs rolling down forty or more feet, then forced across the stream and treed in a dense patch of brush, into which the infuriated hounds vainly essayed to climb.</P>
031.sgm:<P>From here she was finally dislodged, and in.making the leap she missed me by a very few inches.  I had dismounted and was holding my horse when I saw her coming by my head, literally dropping out of the sky, four paws out; when she struck she bounded upward like a ball, and the pack literally fell over me in their attempts to reach her.  But some miraculous dodging power aided the tribe, as she again eluded them, and was treed after a hard run through the chaparral, from which she ran down through an arcade of wild grape vines and reached the hills again, where she threw the dogs off.  A long stretch of country was scoured before <illus entity="a031-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Treed. Lynx Hunting, Santiago Club, near Fullerton</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>Two hours had slipped by, and the excitement and speed of the runs had told on the dogs, which were yelping with rage and disappointment.  They now ran about the tree baying in ominous tones, their tongues hanging out, and the long mournful <HI REND="italics">O-O-o-o, O-O-o-o</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The hunt now worked up the arroyo beyond the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The arroyo was from fifty to one hundred feet deep here, its sides precipitous, filled with underbrush and large trees; sycamores and black oaks growing on the banks, cottonwoods, alders, and others in the centre and on the sides, with little meadows here and there above the stream.  The wild grape had climbed many of the trees and interlaced them in a radiant drapery of green, forming a natural jungle for the wildcat, raccoon, and fox.  The hounds presently caught a scent, and after a short run treed a large lynx, a process that was repeated half a score of times before she was finally captured, proving a most gamy animal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The Arroyo Seco, a river of verdure if not water, reaching down from the mountains, is a natural park, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:the gulch forming the western boundary of Pasadena. As I write, two minutes' walk from its fragrant edge, over which I can see the tops of its trees from my lawn, I hear the melody of a hound calling, O-O- <HI REND="italics">o-o</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Nearly every ca&ntilde;on in Southern California has its quota of lynxes, generally of two kinds.  Those leading from the main range are most frequented, but in nearly every arroyo of any size where there is underbrush and trees there will be found the gamy and savage enemy of the rancher.</P>
031.sgm:<P>All along the Sierra Madre, from San Luis Obispo to San Diego, the sport may be had, and several well-known packs of hounds are kept in California--notably the Kentucky pack of thoroughbreds of Mr. William G. Burns, of the Pasadena Country Club. These hounds <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>This club has hunted the country nine or ten years, and game, fox, coyote, and lynx, is so plentiful that there is constant exercise for the pack.  The dogs, Trilby, Don, Pluto, Mack, Diana, Flash, and many more, are from Southern stock, recruited from Virginia, Kentucky, Georgia, and Alabama, and some of them, owned by the hunt and Dr. Page of Pasadena, are remarkable hunters.  The master of the hounds lives up the ca&ntilde;on twenty miles from the city of Santa Ana, and twice a year, in May and October, special hunts are enjoyed that have a wide reputation.  They are held in Orange County Park, a fine piece of well-wooded country about <illus entity="a031-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The Bells of Mission San Gabriel Arcangel near Pasadena</HI>
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031.sgm:ten miles from Santa Ana and stretching along the south face of the foothills.  Several hundred people attend them, and go in conveyances of all kinds, and with tents camp out in the grove, forming a small village.  Famous cooks, the Serranos, are on hand, and after the hunt there is a barbecue, Mexican fashion, where <HI REND="italics">chili con carne, chili colorado, tomales</HI>
031.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The hunts average twenty lynxes and fifteen foxes a year, and in the driest weather the hounds have no difficulty in taking the foxes.  These meets are looked forward to with pleasure and delight, and in the gloom of the live-oak forests one meets many famous Californians and lovers of sport, none of whom are more enthusiastic than Dr. Benjamin Page, who can tell you every hound by his voice and the exact stage of the game, just as he knows the highest peaks of the Sierras, the deepest ca&ntilde;ons, and all the famous trout pools of Southern California along the high Sierras as they over-look the great desert of the south.  It is good to see the old-time hunting gentleman imparting his enthusiasm to the younger generation and handing it down as a legacy.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The Southern California lynx, <HI REND="italics">Lynx rufus</HI>
031.sgm:, is a handsome spotted animal, weighing sometimes fifty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The red lynx, <HI REND="italics">Lynx rufus</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The Valley Hunt Club of Pasadena maintained a pack of greyhounds and a pack of foxhounds for many years, the latter being used for lynx-hunting almost exclusively, not being fast enough to run down a coyote in the open country. The pack was a gift of Dr. F. F. Rowland, who brought them to California from the Rose Tree Hunt of <illus entity="a031-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Valley Hunt Foxhounds, Pasadena</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Another day the pack took up a scent and with a roar of sounds swept over the mesa like the wind.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Having succeeded in driving the pack out of the little garden, now a wreck, I began to think of escape, but it was an evil day.  Our horses had run away and there was nothing to do but face the irate German, who stated that he had a brother-in-law who was in some way related to the Lieutenant-Governor of California, and the latter was to be summoned at once.  It was fortunate that in those Arcadian days telephones had not disturbed the peace of suburban communities, or we should doubtless have been held and hauled before this official.  As it was we faced the irate citizen, and in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The lady appeared dumbfounded at this phase of the question, as well she might, and I saw that my argument had produced an effect, the lady was anxious to consult her excited husband.  But he was being interviewed by my companion, who told him that it was unfortunate that he had seen fit to attack a man so prominent as his friend, Herr School Trustee, a high educational official under the municipal government of a neighbouring city, and he wished it understood that <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
031.sgm: would not be responsible for anything that should happen to a man who used decoy dogs to attract visiting hunts.  This convincing logic came in the nature of a shock to the German, and he no longer quoted the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>American diplomacy succeeded. The worthy couple soon appeared; the husband said he had misunderstood the situation, and begged the gentlemen to overlook it. The gentlemen thus appealed to took it under advisement and finally concluded to accept the apology on account of the lady.  Thus was the incident closed. The boys brought our horses, the German gentleman and his wife bowed low over the wreck of their hollyhocks, the prominent city officials gave a profound salute, the boys, having been tipped, raised a cheer, and the Valley Hunt rode proudly down the long country road in the direction of San Gabriel.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Below the mission was a vast vineyard, and beyond were fields of nodding grain that rippled and laughed in the sun as the wind caressed its surface.  Then there were great open stretches covered with alfileria, and along the sides of the road were lines of wild oats the yellow violet, and little blue cup-like flowers, while in the fields grew masses of wild daisies of a score of kinds, the plume-like painter's brush, the yellow mimulus, and over them, like the background of a Japanese picture, towered a mountain of snow, a silver liberty cap, a California Fuji-yama ten thousand feet in air.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Near here the hounds gave tongue, the baying in <illus entity="a031-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The Trail of the Lynx Hunters near El Toro</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:creased, and we forgot our troubles in the cheering,tremulous music, the rolling, deep-throated sounds--O-O- <HI REND="italics">o-o-o-o</HI>
031.sgm:<P>All these variants in the language of the hunt were heard by us, and as the pace grew fiercer, the cries wilder, we closed in and swung into a field and at full speed ran at a mammoth pile of brush, reined up amid a cloud of dust, and swung ourselves from the saddle, to confront--ministers of grace defend us!--a huge pig with a large and interesting family.  She did not even rise; she merely grunted, while our eyes wandered over the astonished pack and conjured up wild schemes of revenge.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It must not be thought that the hounds were useless; quite the contrary, they were not exercised sufficiently and literally went wild when we took them out. No better dogs ever took the trail of a fox or wildcat, but when not worked they insisted upon divers diversions, and they had them at our expense.  It was uncertain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The days with these hounds in the deep arroyo, or in the open, in the floral winters, despite their occasional vagaries, are among the pleasant memories of the earlier California days, and there are still Newfoundland dogs, wildcats, lynxs, hounds, and, above all, winters when the palm leaves rustle in the soft wind, and petal snowflakes drop from the orange, lemon, and lime.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter III</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Deer-Hunting in the Southern Sierras</P>
031.sgm:<P>WHEN living on the immediate slope of the Sierra Madre, I was within rifle-shot of three ca&ntilde;ons down which tumbled the waters from the upper range.  Sometimes the water ran under leafy arcades where the fragrant bay quivered in the soft wind, then out into the open, above which the dark blue of the larkspur stood out in relief against the green of nodding brakes, then gliding down the face of some green slide where dainty maidenhair and other ferns trembled in the rush of air. Then the water would gurgle and leap through polished rocks, dart out into the open again, and swing merrily along, bearing freight of acorns, pine needles, oak leaves, or a branch of trailing vetch to strand them on a mimic bar of shining sands.</P>
031.sgm:<P>These sand-bars were found everywhere in the arroyo.  I established relations with and consulted them as to the coming and going of the forest animals, and if word had been left me, the message could not have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Several times, in wading down the stream, looking through some leafy covert, I came upon a deer, and sometimes in the fall, along the unfrequented slopes, one would be seen in the blue haze of early morning. During the hot day he has been lying on the summit of the range in some little clearing, or on the north and cool slopes; but in the cool evening or morning he is abroad, pushing through the chaparral, showering himself with crystal drops, sniffing at the perfumed panicles of the wild lilac, and nipping the green tips of the Adenostoma.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Down he comes, crossing the divide, looking out into the valley filled with silvery fog, through which the tops of hills emerge like islands.  He brushes aside the trumpets of the mountain mimulus, starts at the murmur of the deep-toned pines, stands and listens until the mimic echo of the sea dies away, then pushes out into the stream and takes the trail along whose sides grow the viands of his choice.  He nibbles at the wild honey-suckle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>At such times I have seen him, when the eastern sky was ablush with vivid tints, the snow-caps of San Antonio suffused with the golden light of the coming day. You look twice and again, so well does he match the chaparral, so harmonious the tint; indeed no one would suspect that this placid-faced, large-eyed creature standing like a statue, big in the haze, was a grape-eater, that he had pillaged the ranch below Las Cacitas the night before, and the one before that had played havoc in a Ca&ntilde;ada ranch.  But it is the same, and you have laid in the chaparral waiting for him night after night, and now he is gone, and off somewhere with lowered head he creeps through the bush and makes good his escape.</P>
031.sgm:<P>All the ranges of the southern Sierras abound in the black-tailed deer; an attractive creature, at the present time difficult to shoot if fair play is given.  Indeed, I can conceive no more difficult sport than to hunt the deer in the Sierra Madre without dogs.  The extraordinary character of the mountains, the steepness and depth of the ca&ntilde;ons soon tire out the hunter.  I had hunted deer in the Adirondacks, in Virginia and Florida, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>A single hunt may illustrate the arduous nature of the sport if followed with enthusiasm.  By sunrise we were riding down the Ca&ntilde;ada between the Sierra Madre and the San Rafael Hills, the road lying between the ridges in the centre of a wide valley.  It was September, the last of the long summer. The alfileria that swept along the valley in the early spring, clothing it with green, was dead, and the open country bore a brown and burnt-umber shade.  The vineyards, orange and lemon trees were green, but the tall mustard stalks that had been laden with gold, the clovers and others were dead, and their tones and shades combined with the barren spots in rich neutral tints.  The sun was just rising, the ranges were clothed in purple hues, and far to the east a scarlet alpine glow appeared growing and spreading over the world.  The deep shadows crept out of the ca&ntilde;ons, the divides became more pronounced, the distant ranges assumed deeper blues, and finally the big trees that fringed the summits were silhouetted against the blue sky as the sun climbed up out of the desert and looked down on California.</P>
031.sgm:<P>We drove through a long line of ranches for five <illus entity="a031-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">He visits ranch gardens early in the morning</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>I thought of my last deer hunt not a mile from Ned Buntline's old home in the open at the foot of Blue Mountain in the Adirondacks, where I stole through the forest over a bed of leaves, resting on fern-covered trunks coated with moss, every leaf, twig, and branch scintillating with moisture.  Here the only dampness for six months had been the fog and dew; not a drop of rain had fallen, yet the chaparral that robed the mountain was rich in greens, a mantle undulating and beautiful, at a distance, but, to hunt deer in, an impenetrable maze.</P>
031.sgm:<P>This chaparral was composed of Adenostoma, a thick, sweet-scented bush from four to six feet high, spreading and stiff, so that when it bent back and struck one on the return, it was a flagellation.  With it were masses of Heteromales covered with white flowers, sumac, wild lilac, scrub oak, and others, with here and there in the clear places a Spanish bayonet or yucca with a thousand daggers <HI REND="italics">en guard</HI>
031.sgm:<P>My guide said there was a trail, and leading the way <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>My guide now took the hounds down the slopes and began to work up the ca&ntilde;on, while I kept along the trail, that was a mere depression in the chaparral.  Out of the gulf of green now came the splendid baying of a hound, a bay of inquiry, answered presently by another not far distant, taken lIp by still another, and far below me I could see the low chaparral waving as they worked along.  I gradually moved upward; now skirting the ca&ntilde;on and where occasion offered making a zigzag climb; now going ahead to break down the lilac brush or to push the greasewood aside for my patient horse, then climbing into the big Mexican saddle to sit, rifle over the pommel, and watch in silence for a deer.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Again came the flute-like baying, growing in intensity until there was a continuous volley of sounds which reverberated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>It was high noon and the summer sun beat fiercely down, while we ate jerked venison, and waited for the afternoon; then we changed to another peak, seeing deer but getting none, though on a steep slope I came upon a fine buck that doubtless had been shot and lost some days previous.  If there had been no game, there would have been the view.  The San Fernando Valley was at my feet with its shimmering sands, its scattering masses of chaparral, and winding through it the white, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>It is a good principle and safe in such hunting to keep to the trails.  Led by exuberant fancy and a desire to see other parts of the mountains I rode down a long limb of the mountain over a coyote trail, in a short time finding myself involved in the chaparral.  If I could have gone down on my knees and crawled I might have made some progress, but the breaking through was deadly.  I came out into an area that had been burned over, and as my horse pushed aside the branches they sprang back like steel springs.  For a time I was seriously involved and came out, as General Gordon has expressed it, "worn to a frazzle," having learned the lesson to keep to the trails and not attempt in summer to ride a horse through the chaparral on the south side of a Southern California mountain that has been burned over.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There are mountains back of Santa Barbara and in San Diego and other counties where deer-hunting is not so difficult, where the game is more plentiful and can be followed in the Eastern fashion.  Again, in some of the less frequented regions it can be found in the lowlands along the base of the mountains, especially over the line in Lower California; but some of the finest sport can be had in season on the great slopes of San Jacinto, <illus entity="a031-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Deer in the Open</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>No Eastern sportsman should go on a deer hunt on the south side of a California range in summer without a competent guide and a thorough understanding of the country and the conditions. I have known men who had hunted deer in the East for years to come to grief not ten miles from Los Angeles.  They became involved in the hot, stifling chaparral, and were rescued on the slopes of steep ca&ntilde;ons with difficulty.  In all the towns which stand on the foothills skilled deer hunters can be found, and if sport is to be had they should be employed. Again, the Sierra Madre are dangerous to inexperienced men.  They appear smiling and beautiful in the ca&ntilde;ons, but they abound in steep precipices and are often covered with a mass of brush or chaparral that is most difficult to penetrate, wearing and deadly to the man who is lost and confused.  The entire range abounds in large safe ca&ntilde;ons and trails, but the inexperienced sportsman, the "tenderfoot" who attempts to cross the range as he might the Adirondacks, or any Eastern range, by going directly ahead, up and down, will soon come to grief.  The moral, then, is to go well equipped, with some one familiar with the mountains, and if this is not possible, keep to the big ca&ntilde;on trails.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter IV</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Water Fowl</P>
031.sgm:<P>THE coast of Southern California is, in the main, a long stretch of sand dunes changing every hour and moment in the wind that heaps them up into strange and fascinating shapes.  In many instances they form breakwaters, damming up the waters that flow down the ca&ntilde;ons' stream-beds from the interior. Thus all the country to the south of the Palos Verde, near San Pedro, and extending to Long Beach, is a shallow back bay, a series of lagunas or canals, often running back into the country to form some little pond or lake. At Alamitos, where the San Gabriel River reaches the sea, and at Balsa Chica, one of the finest preserves and clubs in the country, and other places along shore to San Diego we shall find these lagunas, or sea swamps, the home of the duck, goose, and swan.  The season begins in November, and if there has been an early rain the country is green and beautiful.  The long summer is a vanishing memory; the air is clear, and the distant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>If you live in the mountains this call comes every few hours.  Near my camp, on a spur of the Sierras, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>In this way the geese and cranes migrate to Southern California.  At this time the oranges are turning to gold; the land that was brown and grey is green; the Heteromeles flashes scarlet on the slopes of the ca&ntilde;on down which you pass, and the lowlands, where the wild rose garlands some little runaway through the hills, are rich in sweet odours.  Then, from high in the air, comes the <HI REND="italics">honk, honk, honk</HI>
031.sgm:<P>There I found myself one morning before daylight sitting in the barrel blind on the edge of the laguna, with decoys all about, and the air filled with the gutterals of swamp birds and the cries of myriads of blackbirds.  The high fog was going out to sea, and away to the north was seen the long line of the Sierras, the tall peaks, as San Antonio, standing out like sentinels, while to the west rose a wall of green weed, its tall spikes reflected in the water in lines of vivid colour, bending here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:and there under scores of blackbirds.  It may be my imagination, but if there is not organisation of some kind among these birds, the imitation is perfect.  I had my decoys well placed, and was out of sight before a bird left the weeds where they spent the night, but the first glimpse of the sun started them, and a roar of sounds filled the vibrant air.  They thronged the bending reeds and, suddenly silenced, a flock of four or five hundred rose, as though by concert, and flew away; then bedlam broke loose again-- <HI REND="italics">ping zeee ee ping zeeee</HI>
031.sgm:<P>If one does not bag his ducks or geese there are the charms of the swamp, the variety of animal life, the strange sounds to listen to--all compensations.  But what is this, far to the south where the laguna reaches away to the sand dunes and sea?  Several black spots appear, standing out with vivid distinctness.  On they come, now resolving into birds--ducks coming in from the sea perhaps, to feed on wild celery, grain, alfileria, and the choice grasses that carpet the soft adobe down to the edge of the water.  They are coming directly <illus entity="a031-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Mission of San Juan Capistrano on the King's Highway</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>Probably every old duck hunter has had this experience, but it has occurred to me but once.  I dodged, and the heavy "sprig" came tumbling down, like a meteorite dropping out of the sky, struck the edge of the barrel, and rolled in at my feet.  The flock has swung around, passing over another blind on its way to the sea again, and so is depleted as the white puffs of smoke rise over the green.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The sprig is the early bird in Southern California, the first to come; a fine big fellow, robed in black, brown, and white, with scintillations of violet, gold, and green.  In the old days, or twenty years ago, before California was invested, I have seen the waters of the lagoons covered with them, while the adjacent lands and mounds would be white with cranes and geese. In those days the lagoons were no man's land; duck clubs were unknown, and there was good shooting in a little lake south of Raymond Hill, Pasadena, in the foothills after a rain, not to speak of the reservoirs.  Then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>This has all changed: almost every foot of good duck shooting in Los Angeles County, and from Santa Monica to Laguna, is taken by private clubs; were this not so, every duck and goose on the coast would be killed off by the pot-hunter, the running mate of the man who dynamites trout streams.  As it is, the birds are protected, and it is not difficult for gentlemen to obtain access to the shooting privileges of some of the clubs along shore.  Sport is not alone the object; the birds are conserved, protected, and fed, and intelligent laws devised for the conduct of the sport.</P>
031.sgm:<P>While we are digressing, white spots are coming up the channel of the slough, and you see the king of all ducks  the canvas-back.  The first one I ever shot from a blind in the Chesapeake Bay gave me the duck fever; it was not the bird, but the fact that a flock of canvas-backs and others covering acres, so it seemed, came swimming around a turn, out into the bay, so that when I sprang to my feet that I might not commit murder on the high seas, the air was filled with climbing forms.</P>
031.sgm:<P>On they come straight for the decoys, and as the white puff drifts away, I see the canvas-back lying among them, while the rest of the flock are whirling away seaward.</P>
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031.sgm:<P>The sportsman will find nearly all the ducks of the East along shore in Southern California: the mallard, gadwall, baldpate, green-winged teal, blue-winged teal, cinnamon teal, spoonbill, sprig, wood duck, red-head, canvas-back,  wing  widgeon,  buffle-head,  American scooter, white-winged scooter, surf-scooter, and ruddy duck, some of which, as we might say of crow, are more pleasing to the eye than the stomach.  Of geese there are the lesser snow goose, greater snow goose, American white-fronted goose, Canada goose, Hutchin's goose, black brant, and trumpeter swan.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There is a constant coming in, on this splendid shooting ground.  Here is the cinnamon teal with beautiful colouring; its gray wings striking the air like whips, its bars of celestial blue, its velvet beak blazing like a jewel,--the humming-bird of the duck tribe.  It is one of the commonest of Southern California ducks, found along shore all summer, spring, and fall, going farther south in midwinter.   In May, its nest and eggs may be found in many of the protected lagoons. How far this fine bird goes to the south is not known, but it is seen in Central America in February, and is one of the most attractive of its kind.  To see it paddling in some snug harbour, shut in by tules, its tints blazing in the sunlight, is a picture too beautiful to always interrupt when there is other game to be had. The mallard is a favourite duck of the people, and one of the cleverest.  It comes up the little channel, approaches the decoy, then has a presentiment (surely it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The commonest bag along shore is the green-winged teal.  No one can watch its flight, its dash and swiftness, without becoming enamoured with it as a game bird.  I have seen a flock whizzing along, have fired and missed, recovering from my surprise only to be thrown into deeper chagrin and confusion as the same flock that had dodged my ammunition came whirling back at me, so near that I threw up my hands, figuratively, and let them go.  I was not out for murder or sudden death without an excuse or justification.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The mornings out on the edge of the lagoon are often cool, but soon the fog creeps away, the sun comes out, and all the life of the tule appears. Coots make the acquaintance of your distant decoys.  Wilson's snipe come whirring in and alight near you in the mud, and the solitary sandpiper flies down from the pasture lands where it has been feeding to leave its footprints in the soft mud.</P>
031.sgm:<illus entity="a031-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">A Good Day for Canvas-Backs at Balsa Chica</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>If you are in good luck, while waiting you may see the least sandpiper, the avocet, arid that living colour-scheme the gallinule creeping in and out among the tall reeds.  In Florida I have often kept this bird as a pet, it being very amenable to domestication.  Few birds have a more beautiful or more expressive eye than this gentle creature.</P>
031.sgm:<P>If the sportsman finds some section of the country not a preserve and unfrequented, he will see many old friends of the East.  A few years ago I could count scores of herons in the country back of Playa del Rey, splashes of white against the green; and once I hunted a flock of the snowy herons for hours in this lagoon.  I crept over the dunes, edging my way along, and watched them feeding around a little island in the swamp, with sentinels posted.  But the finest bird is the sand-hill crane that may be seen in the Centinela hills, and I have seen it in the Puente hills south of Pasadena. This is the bird that makes the best displays spring and fall along the Sierra Madre.  Wandering along the low region that receives the seepage of the hills you may see the spotted sandpiper, the black-bellied plover, and in the wet meadows, where the lush alfalfa stands, hear the flute-like cry of the killdeer with its ventriloquistic quality coming down the wind.  The mountain and snowy plover are not strangers; and on the highlands or mesas, a few miles from the sea, the long-billed curlew is not uncommon.  I located a large flock of these birds on the mesa a mile back from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>While the geese are not so common as in the old times, the grain fields of Centinela and others in exposed positions are still raided at night by the lesser snow goose.  You may walk along the shore in the afternoon and see the white platoons far out on the water, surrounded by ducks; and if you have patience, and the moon is bright, may see them coming in to devastate your alfalfa patch, or to spend the night in a revelry in your barley fields.  Then there is the white-fronted goose.  I found a little laguna made by the rains near the Mission hills some years ago, frequented by the Canada goose.  The country near by was open and planted to barley, and when the birds had surfeited themselves, they would rise and come wheeling along, dropping down near the blind where I lay concealed. I found at first they paid little attention to my horse, which I left under a tree, and I tried to work up to them mounted, but they saw the trick at once.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I reached the lake one winter morning when the fog was thick and heavy. The hills were green as emeralds, and the drenching rains had brought out the alfileria and burr clover with a host of flowers that grew down to the very edge of the little laguna.  I rode up to a low hill and looked over from the saddle; the soft verdure <illus entity="a031-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">An Hour's Goose Shooting. Count Jaro Von Schmidt, President of the Balsa Chica Gun Club, and Mr. Irvine at Rancho San Joaquin, Orange Co</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>Here, too, is Hutchin's goose, a clever bird.  All these birds present an interesting spectacle in their great migrations along the Sierras, where they are often picked off with the rifle, which, to my mind, not being in the goose business, is one of the really sportsmanlike and legitimate methods for its taking off.  Game itself is but one feature of this sport; the perfect days, the grand vistas of mountains and mesa, the hills, the sand dunes, and the roar of the distant sea as it piles on the sand beyond the lagoon, all tend to add to the charm of life along the winding lagoons of Southern California.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter V</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Fox-Hunting in California</P>
031.sgm:<P>WHEN the scarlet berries of the Heteromeles begin to fill and glisten in the sun, when the long-pointed aromatic leaves of the eucalyptus hang listless in the drowsy air, you may know that summer in Southern California is on the wane.  Up to August, in the valleys the days have been clear and warm; in the afternoon a constant breeze blowing from the sea; the nights refreshing and cool.  There has been no summer humidity, no enervating days that hold on the Eastern coast. Nearly all June and July a night fog has bathed the verdure and left glistening drops in the morning sun, and imparted to the air a resonance and tang that is delightful.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The greens of winter have melted into brown; the lower hills are rich in tones of russet and umber, or where the barley has grown a golden gray.  The foxtail grass that has rippled in the sun in rivers of green has turned to red or blue in its evolution to gleaming gold.  Down the valleys great patches of vivid green <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>In the ca&ntilde;ons clumps of wild roses have taken on a new and tender green, and the single petalled flowers that in spring filled the air with sweetness have gone. Climbing up to and over the cottonwoods, willows, and sycamores the wild grape has formed a dense maze that reaches from tree to tree, the highway of the wood-rat, whose ponderous nest of leaves and brush encompasses the trunks of live oaks on the ground.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The summer wind has died down, the days are warm, the nights cool.  Smoke rises high in air, vagrant dust spouts hang undecided in the valleys, and menacing, white domelike clouds rise thousands of feet above the wall of the Sierras, telling of the desert.  The face of the land changes as the days drag along; the hills become grayer, the fiery yellow of the dodder melts into brown, and the spiked seed-pods of chilocothe hang on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>It is late in September; a yellow diaphanous haze fills the drowsy air, and the colours of ca&ntilde;on and mountain are intensified.  The front range is a light, hazy blue.  Over the divide the second range takes on a deeper tone, while the tip of some back and distant peak is purple; the entire range a maze of delicate tints, as though a great tourmalin lay glistening in the sun.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The cork oaks and pines pipe fairy music in the drowsy air and the ca&ntilde;on streams run low, here and there dry or just moist enough to show the track of some dainty footprint,--quail, wood-rat, or snail.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It is at this time, the period of <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
031.sgm:<P>This explains your presence in the arroyo early in the morning, while the sun is climbing over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The hounds, followed by the hunt, have wound down a little trail into the gulch, where they spread out and cover the stream and its branches.  <HI REND="italics">O-o-o-o</HI>
031.sgm:! rises the deep silvery sound floating through the trees; <HI REND="italics">O-o-o-o</HI>
031.sgm:! then faster, and the hounds stop a moment before several plastic impressions in the sands, and break into a volley of resonant bays <HI REND="italics">Oou, Oou, O-o-o</HI>
031.sgm: --that are carried far into the brush; now along the sandy reaches, up over mimic sand dunes, down into small pools where windrows of shining mica lie like gold, up the bare side of the ca&ntilde;on, into great masses of brakes and ferns, startling a bevy of quail, old and young, that rush away with loud <HI REND="italics">whir, whir, whir</HI>
031.sgm:<P>I had followed the fox in Southern California before, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>It was my good luck to fall into line directly behind the hounds and I saw the fox take an oak.  It did not spring, but deliberately shinned up the small trunk, reaching a limb upon which it swung, then leaped into the thick branches and ran from tree to tree with a speed with which I could not keep up, owing to the thickness of the trees, reached the opposite side of the arroyo, and from a small sycamore sprang into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The hunt was forced to go around, and after a long ride through the chaparral came upon the pack.  They had run the fox up into the thick branches of a "holly," where, not five feet out of reach, this diminutive Reynard sat snarling and growling at them, to make a brave jump and carry the hunt a hundred yards, where on the edge of the cliff it was caught, carrying one of the dogs over into the green abyss, rolling down, followed by the baying, yelping pack and the hunters, who, dismounting, slid down into the green to secure the brush, which was presented to the lady of the hunt whose plucky riding had commended itself.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The game was hardly half as large as the ordinary fox of the East, and known as the coast fox; found all along the Californian shores and on all the islands ranging from Costa Rica to the north-west, varying in appearance in seasons and in localities. The tail is about the length of the body in the average animal.  I have seen a specimen in the mountains of Santa Catalina where it was a splendid ornament. The tail has a black stripe above, and the fur of the body is dark, even almost black above and reddish below, with variations <illus entity="a031-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Winter, Life in the Open near Pasadena</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>I once kept two foxes as pets.  A <HI REND="italics">paisano</HI>
031.sgm: brought them to me and said that they were tame, but I learned later that one bit him eight or ten times on the way down from the mountain.  I fastened them to a tree as I would dogs, and invariably found them in the tree-top in the morning.   In the arroyo the fox lives in the thick masses of vine during the day, makes his den in some hole in a cliff, coming out mainly at night, though I have often met them in the daytime in the chaparral that covers the lower hills.  Any ca&ntilde;on that comes down from the Sierras is the home of this little red and gray fox.  You may find him at Santa Barbara, in the beautiful glens and defiles of the Santa Ynez, or along and around Bear Mountain, back of Santa Paula.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:looks down upon the mountains from the Strawberry Valley, around Idlewild, and the great slopes of San Antonio and the clefts of Mount Wilson are his home; or you may find him in the Santiago mountains, where he forms the game <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
031.sgm:<P>They are particularly common at Santa Catalina. On the summit of this island is a range of mountains, named for Cabrillo, the discoverer of the island, which have several isolated peaks, twenty-two hundred feet in height, surrounded by a maze of ca&ntilde;ons.  In between these, running directly across the island, is a long and well-wooded ca&ntilde;on, in its lower range called Middle Ranch, the Cabrillo range forming the south wall of green.  In camp here one is never away from the melodious note of the quail, while the foxes make a runway down every ca&ntilde;on and along the tops of the range where great reaches of low chaparral sweep away to the sea. At San Clemente they stole from my camp and came around every night.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Fox-hunting is indulged in all over California, but it is a failure in the open.  The fox will make a long run in the chaparral, but in the open country he will run for the trees in sight and leap up their sides with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:great abandon.  I remember well a "fox hunt" on the mesa in my early days in California.  A fox having been located in a little woodland on a wide mesa that afforded a splendid running country, a hunt was organised and in due time the fox started.  I was the Master of Fox-Hounds that day, as well as the President of the Club, and the hunt was looking to me to carry out the plan of an old-fashioned Virginia fox hunt.  The hounds took the trail, and the fox responded.  He dashed across the mesa, stood a second surveying the landscape, then selecting the only tree in sight--an oak--he ran for it, and the hunt and pack in full cry followed--for perhaps <HI REND="italics">three hundred yards;</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The Santiago Hunt Club averages about fifteen foxes a season, often taking them in September and October, the driest time of the year.  The dogs of this club are doubtless the best foxhounds now in Southern California.  Mr. J. E. Pleasants, the Master of Hounds, and Mr. C. E. Parker of Santa Ana have taken great interest in perfecting Californian foxhounds from stock from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>While fox-hunting may be had in summer and as the latter wanes in October, it is better in the winter when the land is green and the herbage in secluded places damp, holding the scent.  Then the country is ablaze with colour.  The mesa, ca&ntilde;on, arroyo, and mountain - slope each has its special floral offering to delight the hunter, and life in the open can be had in all the term implies.  Immediately after the first rain is doubtless the most favourable season.  The land is still warm and dry. Perhaps in mid October, there is no suspicion of a change, and a thick golden haze hangs in the valleys, so that one seems to see the mountains through opalescent lace.  The nights are a little cooler, the wind has about died away, and for days flocks of geese and cranes have been seen flying south along the Sierra Madre.</P>
031.sgm:<P>You are familiar with the fog that comes in from the sea against the wind at night in an altogether incomprehensible fashion, going out against the sea breeze in the morning, the tonic of Southern California, the balance wheel, the only fog in the world possibly that is purely harmless, crepuscular, nocturnal, and other things. But one day this fog, in a long, feathery, fan-shaped finger, is seen creeping along the slope of the Sierras in the morning.  From my home in the San Gabriel at Pasadena, it appears to come up the Santa Ana River <illus entity="a031-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Fox Hunting Country near Orange, Santiago Mountains</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>If this is a real rain, not a false alarm, it spreads out and encompasses the whole land from the mountains to the sea, and after much coming and going, halting and coming again, the rain falls softly at night.  I have known enthusiasts to go out and stand in it, when it has not rained for eight months.  It rains gently all night, and in the morning the clouds slink away and leave another land.  The golden haze that has filled the valley is gone, there is a new tone, a new world; the dust has been washed out of the atmosphere, the trees are green and bright, the Heteromeles hold up their ripening berries, and wild lilac, ironwood, manzanita, and a score of trees and bushes take on rich green tints under this night's washing. The orange and eucalyptus groves are freshened up and all the earth, covered with its brown and seared mass of winter vegetation and seeds, takes on a darker brown.  Then is the time to take out the hounds; the damp sand of the ca&ntilde;ons is covered with grey leaf mould that photographs the imprint of fox or bird, and retains the slightest odour, and the hounds at once pick up the scent and follow it over and through the devious paths and trails of the deep ca&ntilde;ons.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The fox is a very minor part of fox-hunting in Southern California.  I have spent many God-given days in the ca&ntilde;ons of the range, from Santa Barbara <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:to San Luis Rey, where the fox was but an excuse, a leader to bring one in touch with new beauties, new scenes.  I spent an entire winter in the Sierra Madre between two of its most attractive ca&ntilde;ons, and very frequently went hunting with a grey- or foxhound. What game we found and ran to earth in these splendid glades!  We found banks of wild tiger lilies, cliffs with backgrounds of bluebells; there were brakes as tall as a man, fragrant bays, and down the valley, on the slopes by San Jacinto, the Matilija poppy with great white petals and golden centre.  We hunted the fox in the splendid Santa Margarita Rancho that overlooks Elsinore, and wandered among the mountains that rise back of the fine old Missions of San Juan Capistrano and San Luis Rey.  We hunted in the Coast Range, down the ca&ntilde;on of Laguna with its many caves, and along shore, where the rocks reach out into the sea. All over Southern California the little fox is found, and I commend it to the sole and tender mercies of your camera at times when the hen-roosts are not robbed. If it is a good fox-hunting winter, this first rain holds for several days and gives the thirsty earth an inch or two of rain; then watch the staging of nature's transformation scene.  The change is so sudden, comes on so quickly that almost the following week you may see the alfileria rippling away over lowland and mesa; the rains have washed the seeds of the clovers in windrows, and the first green along the roads and trails comes in circles, and arcs, then fills the interstices, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter VI</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>A Rainbow in the Sierra Madre</P>
031.sgm:<P>IN February or March the disciple of Walton, in Southern California, begins to look over his flies and appropriate the big worms which come to the surface at this time in the gardens and ranches, as though to challenge fate.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The land is still in the grasp of winter; the high peaks of the Sierra Madre, San Jacinto, and San Bernardino are white with snow; and over the orange trees in my garden, where the birds fill the air with melody, I see a white, fluffy, zephyr-like cloud hovering like a bird on San Antonio; yet not a cloud, but snow rolling up the north slope, to be whirled and tossed into the air, a titanic wraith, that falls and is dissipated by the soft airs that float upward from the valleys that reach away to the distant sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There has been a snow-storm in the San Gabriel. The walks in the garden are white, and the strong west wind plays over it, robbing the violets of perfume.  But the snowflakes are the petals of orange blossoms, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The country in the open is running riot with flowers.  It has been a rainy winter and the fall came early. Twenty inches have fallen, and, as though touched with a magic wand, the gray sombre beauties of the land have melted imperceptibly into green.  You may almost see it spread and kindle into flame, so subtle, so rapid, is the response of nature to the call of winter or spring. Over all the land is spread a carpet of alfileria, soft as velvet, and radiant in changes of shade and tint, as the days slip away.  On this carpet flowers are budding and blooming, and as the trout are pushing up-stream against the floods that are coming down, the land becomes a garden of many colours.  The upland slopes, the great mesa in the San Gabriel and beyond, are a blaze of golden yellow.  The copa de oro has opened, and the land is a field of the cloth of gold, the cups of gold covering barren slopes, drawing a mantle over ragged wastes and washes, as though all the mines of Southern California were flowing liquid gold that ran over the length and breadth of the land.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There is a procession of flowers as the weeks pass: bells of cream among the barley or by the roadside, bells of blue along the trails, violets of gold and brown in the fields or on the hillsides, radiant crucifers in yellow and white, shooting-stars, mariposa lilies, and a host of others.  While it is still winter in the East, Southern California is a wild-flower garden.</P>
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031.sgm:<P>As the days pass, the floral display seems to attain its maximum effort, and then there comes a change; Spring is pouring her glories into the lap of Winter. The rippling fields of oats and barley take on a lighter green; the south face of the range, especially the spurs of the lower mountains, begins to turn and assume umber and grey tints; new and strange flowers appear; the alfileria seeds are boring into the soil; the wild-oat awns are twisting and untwisting, day and night, and the clovers lie brown on the surface.  Tall green forms are now seen on the hills,--forests of green against the slopes; suddenly they turn to a golden hue, and over the hills the golden glow of the mustard races, bends with the wind in varying shades, until in places the entire range of hills have become mountains of gold through which one can ride, the blossoms meeting over the horse's head.</P>
031.sgm:<P>On the mountain slopes the green Heteromeles are spangled with white blossoms, and the sage-covered mesa waves in masses of gray and green spires. Along the foothills a little wash is covered with wild roses that are now in bloom, filling the air with fragrance. The Arroyo Seco, the San Gabriel, the Santa Ana, and the Los Angeles rivers have in the centre of the gravelly waste a silvery stream of water; and so by many tokens the angler in Southern California knows that winter has waned, and April, the month of anglers, when the rod may be plied, has come. If the winter has been very rainy, if thirty or forty inches has fallen, about the annual fall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Southern California in summer has to some a forbidding appearance.  The flowers have gone, the sunlit hills are dry, and the greens have become browns and grays of many tints, yet all attractive and appealing to the lover of colour.  The great vineyards are green, the groves of lowland oaks, as at Arcadia, Pasadena, and La Manda, in the San Gabriel Valley, the Ojai, and similiar localities, are ever green, but the open, tilted mesas, except where covered with chaparral, are brown and gray; and the streams, patches of white sand and polished gravel, lie blazing in the sun, certainly not suggestive of trout, rod, or reel.  But these California rivers are flowing, seeping on beneath the ground, and by tracing them to the founts from which they come--the ca&ntilde;ons of the Sierra Madre, the Santa Ynez, and other ranges--the angler finds himself in another world, the home of the rainbow trout. The Sierra Madre face the sea in Southern California.  At Santa Barbara a range--the Santa Ynez--almost reaches it.  The Sierra Santa Monica range leaps into the ocean, and to pass the beach the angler enters through a natural arch of conglomerate.  From here the main range retreats, forms the background of the San Fernando and San Gabriel valleys, the valley <illus entity="a031-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The Stairs of the Mission of San Gabriel Arcangel near Pasadena on the King's Highway</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>Indeed, Southern California is a maze of mountains and its towns and villages are all on mountain slopes, or in little valleys, shut in by vagrant ranges or mountain spurs that seem to crop up and to extend in every direction.  The main range stands out clear and distinct, a wall of rock, often seemingly bare and barren, facing the sea.  It is cut and worn by the wear of centuries, and while the first impression may be disappointing, the possibilities of this barrier of stone, in colour making, in grand and beautiful effects of light and shade, are soon appreciated.  The mountains seem to be a mass of pyramids, and are cut by innumerable ca&ntilde;ons that wind down from the summits, each having countless branches.  At irregular intervals, the ca&ntilde;ons open into the valleys and sweep on, like the Arroyo Seco, almost to Los Angeles, ten miles distant; cutting a deep and well-wooded gulch, which tells of the force of the winter floods that, beginning far back in the range, come rushing down augmented by thousands of smaller streams, and go whirling on to the distant sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>These ca&ntilde;ons are the gateways to the Sierra Madre, and once within their rocky portals, all thoughts of barren mountains are dissipated, as they are natural parks, filled with green bowers, sylvan glades, banks of fern, the music of the rushing brooks, and the gentle rustling of countless leaves; while the air is rich in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>In the vicinity of Los Angeles the San Gabriel Ca&ntilde;on affords the best fishing, being a large ca&ntilde;on that reaches far back into the range, to appreciate which one must stand on Wilson's Peak, six thousand feet above the sea, and look down into this great gorge worn out by the water. This canon and its forks abound in trout pools, in picturesque rocks, precipitous walls, and splendid vistas of mountains rising one above the other, peak above peak, range above range.  Here the Creel and Bait clubs make their headquarters; and there are several public camps which afford accommodations for the weary angler.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The ca&ntilde;on trail crosses and recrosses the stream of clear water; now plunging into mimic forests of oak; coming out into the open to enter little glades; sometimes the ca&ntilde;on opens out widely, again it narrows and forms great rifts in the rock.  In the open places there are little mesas, often dotted with oak trees--ideal places for camps.</P>
031.sgm:<P>A succession of these beautiful ca&ntilde;ons is found along the entire face of the Sierra Madre.  On the first of April every trout stream from Santa Barbara to San Jacinto and beyond has its anglers.  Some idea of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The San Gabriel Ca&ntilde;on, the head waters of the river of that name, always has fishing unless the water is too high; but the smaller ca&ntilde;ons fail sometimes for opposite reasons, the supply of rain often being too low for a period of years, killing off the fish. But in fishing all is not fish, and some of the most enjoyable days I have had in Southern California have been in the heyday of the Arroyo Seco, when its pools were full, and its stream musical, laughing waters.  Countless times the trail crosses the stream, and I have stopped at the crossing, and, while my horse cooled his hoofs, cast down the stream from the saddle and hooked a fish in the riffle.</P>
031.sgm:<P>A delight-giver indeed was this stream.  It began far away in the upper range and drained many square miles of surface; cool, pure as crystal.  I often stood on its edge, or on some rock, and watched it go whirling by; now loud and melodious, as it ran over some rocky <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:reach, then gliding smoothly over a moss-covered incline to rush out into the open and form a little lake where the willow leaves made an arcade of green tracery over its surface, and their red roots blazed in the shallows.  Here great banks of ferns and brakes grow beneath the bays, and just above, you cast and unreel and let the capricious stream take you down the stream. It seems an impossible place, with its polished rocks, projecting ledges, the big tangles of brush, but down goes the fly to the melody of running waters.  It shoots along, enters a little arcade of brakes, and then, ah! how the line straightens out; a new and unknown music, the click of the reel, breaks in upon the rush of waters and the rustle of leaves; how the slender rod bends and doubles as the gamy trout of the Sierra Madre makes its rush down-stream, dashing by polished, slippery stones, around the smooth edge of boulders, through the rift where the sun blazes brightly, and caressing the water with its sparkle, out and along the edge, to stop, double around a stone, and come upstream with a flying rush. This is a trout stream indeed. There is not a ragged stone in sight; the waters have worn and polished every one, so that even the tree-toads that mimic them have difficult work to hold on.  This saved the day, as the line slipped deftly over their sides and came taut just as the gamy fish made another splendid rush clear away, with the reel in full cry, <HI REND="italics">zee, zee, zeeee</HI>
031.sgm:, echoing musically among the willows and alders.  Nowhere was the water over a foot in depth. <illus entity="a031-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Dr. Page casting in the Upper Big Pool, Deep Creek, San Bernardino Range</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>I have landed brook and lake trout and some of the gamiest fishes of the sea, but inch for inch this trout of the Coast Range, this <HI REND="italics">Salmo iridius</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The fish which I took from the net weighed nearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>I kept on up the ca&ntilde;on, following the trail, then taking the stream and fishing down, in short sections, with varying success and always a splendid play from the animate rainbow.  In these wilds of the Sierra Madre, at least half the charm is the environment.  I walked or rode, led on and on by the constant change, then turned and followed the stream in its race to the sea, to again turn back.  As I worked into the range the ca&ntilde;on deepened and large pools and deep gorges appeared. Once I crept up to one twenty feet across; and on its rim grew masses of brakes, olive-green plumes that caught the slightest breeze.  Opposite were groups of wild lilac, its delicate lavender flowers showering into the pool, while long, pointed bay-leaves, like mimic ships, and acorns nearly two inches long, that had rolled down the ca&ntilde;on side, floated about.  On one side clumps of columbine made a blaze of colour; and on the other a vivid green carpet of moss marked the passage of the stream from the pool above; the water coming gently down like a sheet of quicksilver.</P>
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031.sgm:<P>Into this mirror of delights I cast, dropping a fly directly at the foot of a white rock, with no response. Again I tried, then, failing to secure a rise, I climbed above and crept through the verdure, pushing aside big bunches of fern, to the edge and looked in.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The water was a splendid emerald green, and at the bottom I made out several trout gently fanning the current. The next fly bore a worm, but not a fish moved. I tried all the flies I had, and finally in desperation caught a tree-toad from the rocks and cast.</P>
031.sgm:<P>This was the lure of lures.  A great trout came partly out of water, like a flash of light, and then something went bounding into the air, shooting over the edge of the basin down the stream to the next pool. It is always the largest fish that escapes, and I have been told trout have been taken in this stream that weighed fourteen pounds.  I think I saw one, for a fleeting moment, against the green brakes; but it is needless to harass the memory.</P>
031.sgm:<P>If one had the space and inclination to chronicle the various tales of the rainbow trout, its leaps and plays, a small volume could be made on this fascinating theme alone.  A friend told me that in casting with three flies two fishes saw them coming, met them a foot or two in the air and were caught after a splendid play.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Late in the afternoon I came to a deep pool of the arroyo abounding in trout of small size, and might have filled my creel, but I climbed the ca&ntilde;on side, made the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:trail, and later crossed the stream and rode into camp, twelve miles from the valley, four thousand feet up, and in the heart of the Sierra Madre, with range after range between me and the sea.  The camp was a log-cabin of an old mountain friend, and that night I sat by the fire and looked up the chimney and counted the stars, listened to the cry of strange birds and the weird laugh of the coyote, and breathed the rich odors of forest trees, <HI REND="italics">noctes ambrosian&aelig;</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The San Gabriel Ca&ntilde;on with its splendid reaches is the home of the rainbow trout, and some fine catches have been made here by lucky anglers. The San Gabriel River is available from several points.  The angler will find the Mount Wilson Trail at Eaton Ca&ntilde;on, Pasadena, a delightful diversion.  It carries one from Pasadena eleven miles up the slope of the Sierra Madre, nearly six thousand feet above the sea; affording innumerable views which well repay the trip, aside from the objective. The summit of Mount Wilson is an attractive park, the site of the astrophysical observatory under Dr. George E. Hale.  Near here are two camps or hotels where the angler will find congenial entertainment, and the latest fish stories.  The trail down the north slope is about four miles in length, and can be made by burro or horse, or on foot, and the angler will find one of the most tremendous "drops" in the Sierras, literally <illus entity="a031-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Winter in the Sierra Madre near San Diego</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>It is assumed that the angler of Southern California is a lover of mountain climbing, and this route is a constant delight to such an enthusiast. The view from near the pagoda-like observatory into the San Gabriel abyss is a revelation in itself--a deep gulf or rift worn out by the rush of waters.  It invites the angler in a thousand tongues to descend and explore, and tosses back his voice in a marvellous series of echoes.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Around Santa Barbara and San Buenaventura in the Santa Ynez Mountains some charming trout streams may be found, which are now systematically stocked and protected.  The Sespe, fed by cool springs and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>From Nordhoff, the little town in the Ojai Valley---one of the most fascinating bits of country in Southern California, with its big trees, its velvet-like carpet, its multitude of birds, and lofty hills all about,--the angler can ride on horseback twenty miles over the mountains, coming out at the Sespe near Sulphur Springs.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Near here is the romantic Matilija Ca&ntilde;on; and at Santa Paula the picturesque creek of that name and the Sisar flow through a wild and attractive country, affording ideal conditions for the angler.  Santa Paula Ca&ntilde;on is one of the most interesting in this part of the Sierras, and the accommodations at Sulphur Mountain Springs are excellent. The summit of Sulphur Mountain, easily reached from here, is the centre of a fine hunting country; deer, dove, quail, and trout being the special attractions to the stroller through the range.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles River as it passes through the City of the Angels is a river by courtesy at times, but after a rain in the mountains, it often runs banks full.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Many of these streams that sink into the sand in places, as the Los Angeles River in the San Fernando Valley, and the Arroyo Seco, and seep along beneath the surface for miles, to appear again, are sources of constant wonder to the angler who knows only Eastern brooks that always hold their own in the open, and flow through fields of nodding flowers; but the California streams reach the sea at times in winter, though during the summer and fishing season they are often landlocked by sandy wastes.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The rainbow trout is indigenous to the California Coast Range ca&ntilde;on streams, and ranges from the Klamath down to about the Missions of San Juan Capistrano or San Luis Rey, and varies much in colour in different localities.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I have seen one from the Arroyo Seco upper pool that was a light olive-green, covered regularly from head to tail with small round black spots.  Another trout taken in the San Gabriel was blue and had splashes of red upon the sides; the belly of pearl, with faint spots.  The large fish in the streams of Santa Barbara, Ventura, Los Angeles, and San Diego now range from one to two and three pounds when sea run; but Sage gives the maximum weight of Williamson River trout as thirteen pounds, and Mr. W. H. Glass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The fame of the rainbow trout has travelled wherever rods are known, and the fish has been distributed far and wide, even introduced into England; and almost everywhere, it is said, retains its wonted vigour and game qualities.  The open season in California is from April first to November first, and in San Bernardino County from May fifteenth to November first.</P>
031.sgm:<P>A feature of fishing in Southern California is the ease with which the mountains are reached.  Los Angeles is but thirteen miles from the mouth of the Arroyo Seco, Millard, and other attractive ca&ntilde;ons; the Ojai Valley, Santa Paula, or Santa Barbara streams are but a few hours distant, while the San Gabriel River can be reached from the city by train to Azusa in less than an hour, where a stage takes the angler into the mountains to any of the camps along these typical Southern California streams.  The camps are at an altitude of several thousand feet, where hot weather is practically unknown; indeed, one of the surprises to the angler in this country is the summer climate: warm days come in trios and pass, but sunstroke and heat of the character that is experienced in Chicago, New York, and other Eastern cities is unknown.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The available waters of Southern California lakes and streams are stocked yearly by the State Board of Fish Commissioners with rainbow, Eastern brook trout, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Dr. Benjamin Page, of Pasadena, who has camped in the splendid forests about the great lake, is the dean of the anglers and mountain lovers who fish here.  He has cast a fly into every pool in the range, and has made some notable catches.  One I recall, taken in the Bear Valley Lake in July, with rod and grey badger fly and helgramite bait, was two feet one inch in length, one foot two and a half inches in girth, and weighed seven and a half pounds.  This fine fish, a Tahoe Lake trout, fought the skilled angler an hour and sixteen minutes before it could be brought to gaff, and was but one of a notable catch made by Dr. Page's party.</P>
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031.sgm:<P>The pools in Deep. Creek, in the San Bernardino mountains, are of great beauty and size, often chiselled out of the rocky and literal basins of stone, flanked by stupendous masses of rock, down which the clear waters splash and foam, pouring from one great pool into another on their way down the stupendous slope of the range.  Such is the lower Big Pool.  The upper Big Pool, Deep Creek, is even more remarkable, if possible, for its water-worn rocks, the clearness of the water, and its melody where it falls in a level sheet; then striking a sloping ledge it bounds down into the pool, a mass of molten silver, carrying life and aeration into an ideal pool in the heart of the forest where the angler does not cast in vain.</P>
031.sgm:<P>This fine mountain stream well illustrates the possibilities of mountain climbing and trout fishing, abounding in long reaches of forest, tumbling down great distances in short periods, at once one of the hardest streams to climb, and one of the most beautiful and satisfactory to the lover of mountain life.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Deep Creek is an eastern fork and possibly the largest branch of the Mojave River, and can be traced into a desert second only to the Sahara in its terrors of heat in midsummer; hence, one of the most remarkable trout streams in the world for its contrasts.  If any one should point out this dry river-bed in the desert as a trout stream, he would be laughed at, as it is a mere streak of water-polished stones overwhelmed by sand-dunes for miles over the desert, what water there is <illus entity="a031-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The North Fork of the San Jacinto River, San Jacinto Mountains</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The stroller along the picturesque shores of Southern California will find here and there peculiar lagunas,--small bodies of water separated from the sea by the sand-dunes, yet at high tide connected by a little channel that at other times is not always apparent.</P>
031.sgm:<P>These lagunas are often the mouths of the Southern California trout streams.  There is one at the mouth of the Santa Ynez, near Lompoc, reached by steamer, stage, or rail from Santa Barbara; one at Alamitos,--and at Long Beach where the San Gabriel River reaches the sea; another at Venice, where the genius of Abbot Kinney has produced a beautiful town on water-way streets, after the Venetian fashion; another is found in San Diego County where the San Luis Rey River runs into the sea; and there are many others along shore; but the four mentioned are the mouths of rivers down which trout may reach the sea, at times, and in and about which is found the steel-head, supposed by some to be the sea-living form of the rainbow, but by others considered a distinct species.  The steel-head bears some resemblance to the rainbow, but would never be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter VII</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Following the Lowland Wolf THE meet of the Valley Hunt was at a certain oak not far from the edge of the Arroyo Seco.  At an early hour the soft melody of a horn came through the orange groves followed a few moments later by hounds and riders, the men mounted on high-pommelled Mexican saddles with a brave showing of silver and carved leather.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It was a winter morning in Southern California, and as the hunt turned to the south and rode through Pasadena the ground was silvered with heavy frost in places, the summits of the Sierra Madre were white with snow, and the sentinel peaks of San Antonio and San Jacinto, ten thousand feet in air, loomed up, white domes against the pink glow of the morning sky. You could see the snow flying on San Antonio, hovering like a cloud at its summit; you could see the big trees laden with snow on Mount Wilson and Mount Disappointment.  Winter was abroad and visible, but here, mocking-birds, orioles, finches, song-sparrows, from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The Valley Hunt pack consisted of about fifteen greyhounds, built for endurance; tall, rangy, as large as deerhounds; some coming from Australian stock, that had hunted the kangaroo in the open reaches of that country; others having been bred to the hard work of taking jack rabbits in the great vineyards.  Massed, they presented an inspiring picture, as they trotted along; their trim, blue-and-tan coats shining; their bright intelligent eyes glancing to right and left.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The game on this winter morning was to be the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>For a mile the horses walked to the south, reaching a point midway to the Mission Hills from Pasadena, then turned into the fields, which were open and clear to the San Marino vineyard, two miles distant.  Here a stop was made and saddles re-cinched.  When a clever California horse is cinched, he takes a long breath and resists, and as soon as the rider is mounted he "shrinks" to a remarkable degree; hence a second or often a third cinching is necessary before a long run.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The master of the hounds was now fifty feet ahead with the hounds, and the hunt moved on over the alfileria and burr-clover.  It was still early, and a slight haze gave a mirage effect that was very deceiving.  A buzzard appeared like a roc, and a distant cow loomed up as large as an elephant.  Suddenly something else appeared and the master of hounds pulled rein.  About three hundred feet ahead, standing on a little rise, an object that looked like a gigantic dog was silhouetted against the sky.  It stood half turned, its big ears up. Then the hunt moved slowly on, creeping up to it, while it stood and watched, never moving.  Soon it resolved itself into a coyote that eyed us with evident contempt, nor did he move until the master of the hounds spoke to the pack and they dashed ahead.</P>
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031.sgm:<P>Greyhounds, except in rare cases, have no scent, at least it is of little use; they run by sight only; and as the master spoke a familiar word that in the universal language meant game, each dog raised his head and looked eagerly forward.  Some leaped bodily into the air and glanced around quickly; then, all seeing the dim form ahead, lengthened out and rushed on, followed by the roar of pounding hoofs, the clanking of snaffles and chains.  There is nothing quite like this sudden leap into action of twenty or thirty horses as eager for the sport as their riders; and that they enjoy it every wolf hunter will tell you.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The coyote held his post for a second, then, seeing that what he might have taken for a lot of herders or a herd of cattle were coming his way, he swung around, dropping his tail and head, broke into an easy run, and slipped down the side of a wash where the white sand of a little arroyo wound away, flanked by prickly pear and sage.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Over the bank went the dogs, spreading out like a fan by instinct, followed by the hunt, the knowing horses settling on their haunches and taking the slide as a toboggan, then lengthening out into long lines in the wash.  Suddenly the coyote dashed to the left, up an old trail he and his ancestors had made, and regained the mesa; the hunt going on to some break, and losing by this clever trick.  Once up on the plain again, the hounds were seen well bunched, and the hunt now stretched out, the good horses taking the lead, the poor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The hunt is now stretched out over half a mile. The sun has emerged from vermilion clouds, and is flooding the valley of San Gabriel with light, illumining the lofty snow-caps with ineffable glory; while all along the range a crimson light is stealing, and deep purple shadows are creeping into the ca&ntilde;ons like weird spectres of the night that fear the light of day.</P>
031.sgm:<P>A shout from the master of the hounds, the dogs sight the game, and, still silent, stretch out, working like machines.  If you are well to the fore you will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Suddenly the dogs make a sharp turn; the coyote has changed his pace and we are well in.  Old Ramon has forced the turn.  How they run! like machines, every movement telling of grace, springs of steel, and beauty of motion.  Across a rough field we go, through a high mustard patch, then out into a narrow road.  The best horses are well bunched behind the dogs, and like a rush of mighty wind the hunt sweeps down the road, gaining on the coyote at every leap. The hounds had spread out and looked like streaks of dun and blue.  They appeared to make no effort to see, but that they were pulling up on the ghostly form was more than evident.  Occasionally I saw the game turn and glance over his shoulder, then with his big ears well back he shot on again at marvellous speed. <illus entity="a031-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">In at the Death Santiago Hunt, near Orange</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The trick was well played, the game gaining two hundred feet, and then it was a race for the foothills. It is the unexpected that happens.  Suddenly a barb-wire fence appeared.  In some marvellous manner the coyote squirmed beneath it and sped away to the hills, while the hunt lined up and the master of the hounds leaped to the ground to prevent the hounds from cutting themselves in their desperate attempt to follow. The horses had made a splendid run of three or four miles at racing speed, and after a rest the fence was opened and the hunt continued.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The coyote by this time was in the Mission Hills, so the riders and hounds followed up one of the ca&ntilde;ons that cut through the range, reaching the south slope; then, in pursuance of a definite plan, spread out in a long line and mounted the steep slopes, using the sheep-trails as pathways.  The hills were like green velvet mounds, and part of a range called the Puente or Mission Hills, running parallel with the Sierra Madre, and farther down growing larger, near Santiago Ca&ntilde;on, there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>No fairer view could be imagined.  Below, the valley of San Gabriel, a winter garden: vineyards, groves of the olive, lemon, and orange, great squares of eucalyptus, groves of the black, live oak, with lofty palms here and there, and beyond, as a background, the snow-capped Sierra Madre.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I had dismounted, and stood wiping the dust from the face of one of my own hounds, and assuring her of my complete satisfaction and admiration, when my eyes caught a dun-coloured object, the coyote, not two hundred feet down the slope.  He seemed by intuition to know that I had seen him, as he stopped; and so remarkable was the protective resemblance, so happily did he melt into the gray of the wash that I almost lost sight of him.  He seemed to dissolve into empty air.  I whispered the situation to the lady by my side, assisted her into the saddle, and just at that second, before I had time to toss the reins up over her horse's head, my dog and horse saw the coyote.  I was jerked into the saddle in a miraculous manner, and we plunged down the hill.  A second before, every eye was riveted on the picture that spread away hundreds of square <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>These hills were steep for anything but a Catalina sheep pony, and the normal, sane way to descend was by the myriads of sheep trails that had worn into the hillside like the cross waves on a sea beach.  But the coyote disregarded this and ran directly down the precipice, the dogs following, and then those whose horses took them.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I have an indistinct recollection of slipping, sliding, almost rolling down the slope, of reaching the open and leaping a yawning ditch into which a hound had rolled; of seeing close behind me the lady with no reins; then we rushed down into a ragged wash, up the opposite side, and there was Don Coyote, one hundred yards away, running for his life.  Our horses were fresh, and in a few moments we were on the flank of the silent pack that swept along like a single dog -- a terrible menace to the dun-coloured thing growing nearer and nearer.  There was madness in the race--the mastering of space by the dogs, the running of the horses that could not be stopped, the whistling of the wind, a desire to take desperate chances and be in at the kill--which sent the blood whirling through the veins.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The coyote ran directly over the back track and we gained every second.  By chance and good fortune my horse carried me up with the hounds, and for the last quarter of a mile we raced to the finish, the young lady, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>It was heroic, but heroic measures were needed; and the next moment my ordinarily quiet friend, Dr. J. de Barth Shorb, with a heavy crop, had given the coyote his quietus, and thrown him to the dogs.  The coyote when attacked had thrown himself on his back against the hillside and met all comers with a resistance born of rage, desperation, and despair, and several dogs were badly cut by his savage snapping. Dogs, huntsmen, and coyote presented a sanguinary appearance as the rest of the hunt came in, some, nearly ten minutes later, to find the young lady wearing the brush.</P>
031.sgm:<illus entity="a031-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">San Louis Obispo de Tolosa on El Camino Real</HI>
031.sgm: ( <HI REND="bold">King's Highway</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>Such was a typical run across country of the Valley Hunt in the old days; a club which the author founded in 1886 and which is still in existence, though the cross-country riding is restricted about Pasadena and other towns, due to the settling up of the country.  Where, or near where, the coyote was killed, is a forest of eucalyptus, and houses and fences stop the way; but there are thousands of acres beyond the towns where identical sport can be had to-day, coyotes coming out of the range every night and yelping singly and in concert.</P>
031.sgm:<P>As we rode out that morning a guest from one of the Eastern fox-hunting clubs remarked that as there were no fences to jump the sport must be "rather slow."  I did not dissent, but some time after the kill our guest came in, and after congratulating the young lady who had made a ride which for daring, I venture to say, is seldom equalled by a woman, he turned to me and, laughing, said, "I take it all back about the lack of excitement; but that run was n't hunting, it was suicide.  I never would have believed that a horse could go down such a precipice on the run."</P>
031.sgm:<P>It looked dangerous to a man habituated to the beautiful pastures and level stretches of country of the East where bad washes, badger and squirrel holes are unknown; but to a California horse with a soup&ccedil;on of mustang in him, a horse that enjoyed sport and knew all about it, it was nothing, and even this was a bagatelle to some of the riding I have seen among the sheep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The country may be dangerous for indiscriminate hard riding, but not for those who know and are fond of it; and in ten or more years of cross-country riding with a large field, the Valley Hunt had no serious accidents, and few of any kind.  One is worth mentioning for its extraordinary nature.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The hounds were chasing a coyote near this place one morning, possibly twenty ladies and gentlemen following, nearly all going at full speed; by that I mean many of the horses were almost beyond control.  It happened that I was with the master of the hounds in the lead when we turned into a lane, which came out on to a new road which we supposed led to open country; but the barb-wire fence fiend had arrived unexpectedly, and we came on to his handiwork with a rush. I saw it and shouted back, and the hunt succeeded in stopping their horses; but the coyote squeezed under the lower wire, not ten feet from us.  The master of the hounds could not stop his horse which struck the fence, which bent and threw him completely over.  I had taken the left rein in both hands, exerting all my strength to either turn my horse or throw him, and the clever animal, seeing the extraordinary flight of his companion through the air, turned, settled back, as a cow horse will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>He had turned a complete somersault, and was locked by the wire, head to the back track.  Turning a somersault with a horse is a unique experience, a pastime which I have indulged in and described elsewhere, but I cannot commend it even in Southern California.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The coyote, as game, still holds its own in Southern California and the south-west in general.  It is supposed to be a menace to the rancher, hence there is an excuse for the quest aside from sport; but accepting the latter as legitimate I can conceive of no pastime more exhilarating than this.  An essential, at least to my mind, to true sport for large game is a sharing of chances with it.  To go out with a rifle and shoot the coyote would be to descend to the level of the pot-hunter, but to hunt one of the swiftest of wild animals in the open, follow it on horseback, taking the country as it comes, is fair and honest sport to be commended; a sport in which the rider takes greater chances than the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>I can frequently find the tracks of coyotes in the hills within rifle-shot of my house in a city of twenty thousand inhabitants; hear their insane laughing, yelping cry across the arroyo, and one coyote has so penetrating, so ventriloquistic a laugh that innocent people have been terrified, believing they were menaced by a pack of wolves; but investigation would have shown that all the noise came from one small, undersized coyote which sat on a rock baying after his fashion at the moon.  The coyote is a wild dog that breeds with domestic dogs, and the big-eared issue is often seen in Mexican camps in the outlying districts.  Hounds will often refuse to attack a female coyote.  I once chased one several miles and after a long run worked my hounds to within twenty feet of the game and then called on them to go in.  They closed in, and my best hound ran alongside the coyote--which snapped at him--refusing to attack. This was <HI REND="italics">entente cordiale</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Southern California, or the best part of it, consists of small valleys and foothill mesas, intersected everywhere <illus entity="a031-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Santiago Hunt Breakfast near Santa Ana. Sen&ntilde;or Serr&atilde;no Tries his Hand</HI>
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031.sgm:or surrounded by hills and mountains, down the sides of which lead washes and runways from a foot to twenty feet deep.  The coyote lives in the foothills and on the slopes.  Here he has a den weathered out perhaps by the wind; here he lives during the day, looking down into the rich valleys and the haunts of men.  As night comes on, and the shadows deepen and take on purple hues, when the heavy sea fog comes in along the Santa Monica range, or up the bed of the Santa Ana, he steals down the ca&ntilde;on and follows the shining sands out into the valley, where he takes up the scent of hares, and with his mate or mates runs them down; even a melon patch is game for him.  He stands not on the order of going, but slinks about like a ghost; now sending out peals of demoniac yelping laughter from an orange grove, then heard half a mile away, setting the dogs of towns and villages barking and the cocks to crowing.  In the morning I have visited the runs, the little and big washes that were smooth the night before, and in the round dog-like footprints have read the story of the night, the coming and going of not only coyotes, but wildcats and raccoons.  The coyotes come out into the open at night, in cultivated places, returning at or before sunrise, and in hunting them it is well to begin at some foothill country, line up the hunt, and sweep out into the valley where some belated foraging coyote may be met trotting up the white sandy wash toward home.  The Mission Hill range, which forms the boundary of the San Gabriel Valley to the south, is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Orange County presents a very attractive hunting country, with an abundance of game, long reaches of well-wooded and sloping lands covered with live oaks, picturesque ca&ntilde;ons filled with trees--all illustrating the charm of life in the open.  Many of the hunts of this club cover the entire day, and at night they come into the big camp with coyotes, foxes, and wildcats hanging from the saddles.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The coyote has a wide geographical range, from Costa Rica to Athabasca, and from the central Mississippi Valley to the Pacific Coast, not being found on the islands.  On this vast territory about twelve species have been recognised, and all over California they afford exciting and novel sport.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter VIII</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Shore and Other Birds</P>
031.sgm:<P>DESPITE the monotony of California beaches, the interminable wastes of sand and shifting sand dunes, they have a charm in their animal life.  Near Santa Monica the mountains dip into the sea, and there rocks are seen, and again at Point Firmin; but from here until you reach the Laguna country, or below Newport, the long lines of white sand hold for miles, against which the sea pounds, tossing the spume high in air to be carried inland over fields of flowers.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The beach is worn by the wind into marvellous shapes and is ever changing.  Look at it in early morning before the west wind rises; its surface is a biological record of the night.  It is covered with footprints and mystic signs.  Crabs have crossed it; snails have left a silvery trail; sea birds have stopped here, and this strange mark is the flipping of the wings of a laughing gull as it flew along just above it.  Throngs of shore birds seem to have paraded along the sands, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>But wait until the night wind drops and the great furnace of the desert begins to call the wind; every trace and footprint of the night is effaced.  Little rivers of sand come running along the surface, filling every crevice, climbing up against the ice plant and verbena, and threatening the white flowers that lie along the sand.  The pink faces of the shore verbena almost disappear as the wind rises; and so the story of the night passes and a new one is told.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The beach has a constant following of shore birds. Laughing gulls parade it, acting as scavengers, with gulls of several kinds; just above is the least tern, eying us furtively, a delicate, beautiful creature like a spirit of the sand.  Here I have found its nest along the dunes, and at one place, near Laguna, the bird had collected the richly coloured shells of the Donax, with which it formed a pavement and deposited its eggs upon it.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The California gull, the royal tern, Foster's tern, and many more catch the discerning eye of the stroller; and as he walks along the sands there is a constantly rising silvery throng of small beach birds that fly out a few feet and seem to become a part of the foam and disappear, to as suddenly come in and alight; running along and dotting the soft yielding sands with their footprints.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Lying on the dunes near a point, one may see the American avocet, the black-necked stilt, and the marbled <illus entity="a031-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Gulls at Avalon Bay</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>At San Clemente, Santa Catalina, and other islands you may see a variety of sea birds, attractive if not game,--those which affect the island rocks and have no interest in the sands.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The best places for shore birds are where there are long stretches of beach and sand, behind which are pools and sea swamps, which afford mud flats for such birds to feed upon.  Here one may see the great blue heron, the least bittern, and at times, farther in, the wood ibis, that has a penchant for barley fields and rolling mesas near the sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The ca&ntilde;ons that reach away from the ocean afford fascinating nooks and corners for birds of many kinds, as here the valley quail comes almost to the beach; and around Santa Monica and the Malibu I have seen the great California vulture or condor, that nests in this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>If the sportsman wishes this game he should watch the mountains, and after a heavy snow-storm, when they are well covered down to the three-thousand-foot level, go to the great open ranches and fields at the base of the range, where he will see this fine pigeon, evidently driven out of the range by the snow.  I have seen hundreds on the Hastings ranch, in the San Gabriel Valley, at such a time, and doubtless many such flocks could have been found far down the range.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Camping in the mouth of some big ca&ntilde;on, as the one at Santa Monica, Laguna, or San Juan, affords the lover of nature varied opportunities.  A few steps up the ca&ntilde;on you find sycamores, cottonwoods, and live oaks in sight of the sea.  In the chaparral are humming-birds; bright-eyed lizards glance at you from every stone pile, and the sly gopher pushes up his mounds as you look and ventures out of his hole perhaps to show you how he can run back and hit it, tail first.  The fields are filled with ground squirrels that only take to trees in dire necessity; and at night a little leaping jerboa-like creature comes prowling about, while <illus entity="a031-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Castle Rock, Santa Barbara</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>On the beach near the ca&ntilde;on you may see the print of the raccoon, and possibly the clever animal himself. In fox-hunting the dogs occasionally catch them.</P>
031.sgm:<P>At night along the sands may be seen at the mouth of the ca&ntilde;on a beautiful little raccoon-like creature, the bassaris, with a bushy ringed tail and large expressive eyes.  There are numbers of bats  one very large,--a great variety of small birds--thrushes, robins, orioles, kinglets, wrens, warblers, swallows, ravens, sparrows,- an endless procession that fill the ca&ntilde;ons with song, while the ranches with their orchards attract other and different birds. If game is hard to find along-shore, there is the compensation in a variety of beautiful forms always in sight.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter IX</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Bighorn</P>
031.sgm:<P>YOU may at least look at bighorn sheep in California, and in attaining the glance you will climb some of the highest slopes of the southern Sierras  There is a band of bighorn sheep on the slopes of Mount San Antonio unless they have been killed recently; and others have been reported on Grayback or Grizzly peak, on San Jacinto, or other lofty summits from eight to eleven thousand feet above the sea. But they are protected by law, and, as I have suggested, can only be looked at or photographed, which, after all, is the most satisfactory method of hunting game that every intelligent American knows is being exterminated.</P>
031.sgm:<P>If the bighorn cannot be had in Southern California it can be found over the line on the peninsula, not many miles below San Diego or Coronado, where one may take the steamer for Ensenada and there procure guide and pack train for the lofty mountains which form <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Lower California is but an extension of Southern California, growing naturally warmer as one proceeds south; as Agassiz said when he visited it on the Hassler Expedition, "It has an almost perfect climate during the winter, being similar to that of Southern California, only milder."</P>
031.sgm:<P>The peninsula is a narrow, mountainous strip about seven hundred and fifty miles long, from thirty to seventy miles wide.  For the convenience of the sportsman it can be divided into three areas: one on the north abutting Southern California, two hundred miles long, is a continuation of the Sierra Madre, a fine range rising from five to ten thousand feet in air, on which one can stand and see the Pacific and the Gulf of California in one sweeping glance.  These mountains abound in fine pine forests and form the source of numerous springs and small rivers, and in the lower region are some beautiful valleys where grazing and ranching are carried on. One of the most attractive is the Maneadero Valley, not far from Ensenada.  Here one may see typical California ranches of the old days.  Beyond this there is a central region, made up of table-lands and flat ridges, with mountains isolated and in groups, running up to four or five thousand feet. This extends for four hundred and fifty miles, which brings us to what Gabb calls the third province, extending one hundred miles from Cape St. Lucas to La Paz and beyond <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>It is with the northern province that the sportsman has to do, and the splendid mountains, wild and majestic, that form the backbone of the peninsula here, afford some of the best bighorn shooting in America to-day, while in the lowlands are deer, antelope, and a variety of small game.  All the ranges, seemingly culminating in the fine peak of San Pedro de Martyr, afford game of some kind.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The bighorn sheep may be considered one of the forms that is gradually growing scarcer and which ultimately will disappear. When I reached Southern California in 1885, hunting it was considered one of the sports of the country, and I recall seeing two fine heads brought into Pasadena about 1887, in which year several grizzlies were killed in the mountains.  The bighorns were killed on the north slope of San Antonio, about fifty miles from the city of Los Angeles, where the remnant of the herd still lives, protected by the game laws of the State.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The animal is a splendid figure, with its enormous horns, corrugated, scarred, and turned back, bending down and pointing to the front again.  It ranges from the mountains of Mexico north to Alaska, and is one of the splendid game animals of America that is doomed to pass over the divide sooner or later.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I was once on very good terms with a tame ram in Colorado, an old-timer having one in a small corral <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>What a splendid animal he was, and what a coward was the mountain lion!  Yet I may do the latter injustice, though he started as though he had been hit whenever the ram struck his partition and jarred the very earth.</P>
031.sgm:<P>A fine animal is the mountain sheep.  He is wild and loves the wild places.  His home is on the lofty, wind-swept crags of high mountains.  As I write, I can look over the tops of palms and orange trees in my garden and see his home--the bare, pallid rocks that form the summit of San Antonio, two miles or more above the sea.  The gentle wind in the valley of the San Gabriel is barely sufficient to arouse the music of the pine needles, yet up the north slope of San Antonio I can sometimes see a mass of snow rolling on, like a great white diaphanous cloud, that rises higher and higher, a wraith of the mountains, telling of the rigours of winter in this home of the mountain sheep.</P>
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031.sgm:<P>There is something in the personality of the animal which attracts one, and I well remember the old cow-man who owned the Colorado bighorn and who intended sending him to some zo&ouml;logical garden in Germany.  "There's game for you, gentlemen," he said. "The big sheep is every inch an aristocrat; he may be a sheep, but he possesses the attributes of goat, antelope, and elk, so far as game is concerned."</P>
031.sgm:<P>The bighorn stands about three feet in height at the shoulders, and in his best condition weighs three hundred odd pounds, and he has a coat of various shades and tints.  That of the San Antonio specimens I have seen, <HI REND="italics">Ovis canadensis</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The crowning glory of the animal is its horns, which are massive, deeply corrugated, flat, and ranging from thirty to fifty-two inches in length and from thirteen to eighteen inches in circumference.  There is something about these massive head ornaments which stamps the mountain sheep as the aristocrat of his kind.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I have never hunted the sheep in Lower California but am informed by Mr. Grosvenor Wotkyns and Mr. Nordhoff, who has a ranch below Ensenada, that good sport can be found there in the upper regions of the southern Sierras, which are so accessible that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter X</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Home of the Mountain Lion</P>
031.sgm:<P>CAMPING out or living in the Sierra Madre in a rainy winter is not without charm and excitement.  To look at the placid and well-wooded ca&ntilde;on that cuts off Las Cacitas from the mesa below in summer, one would never suspect the volume of water which often comes foaming down during the occasional winter rains.  The river course is now dry; the summer sun has driven the water far below the surface, where it sweeps slowly along, the underground river that has given fame to Southern California.  Yet I have been shut in by floods on this spur of the mountains for three days, and kept awake at night not by the roar of the waters, but by the deep, menacing sound of boulders rolling down the bed of the stream in a neighbouring ca&ntilde;on.</P>
031.sgm:<P>All these ca&ntilde;ons, the arteries of the Sierra Madre, have not been made by a steady, regulated wear and tear, but by rushes of water, cloudbursts that suddenly Wipe out the fixtures of years, carrying away whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>In the ca&ntilde;on I have in mind I knew several men who preferred its solitudes.  One day one came up to our camp, which was on a spur of the range, and said that a mountain lion had killed his burro and eaten part of it during the night, and he was afraid that it would return.  A trip to the ca&ntilde;on camp, a rifle-shot away, showed the evidence of guilt: a small burro had been stricken down and torn and lacerated.  Several hunters agreed to stay at the camp and see if the lion returned, but it did not, though its track was seen in various places, up and down the stream, testifying to its size. Not long after I was notified that a lion had been seen near the old Mission of San Gabriel, and one morning I joined the hounds in the shadow of the old pile and followed them over ten or fifteen miles of territory.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Some Mexicans reported that they had seen the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>In many of the mountain towns or those near the ca&ntilde;ons, stories are current relating to the mountain lion, but the animal is rarely seen.  One was killed near the Raymond Hotel in 1898, and another was seen by a hunter on the old Mount Wilson trail, the animal slinking off into the chaparral.  Doubtless a good pack of hounds taken up into the mountains near Barley Flats, or at the extreme head of the San Gabriel, would result in the finding of lions, but there are so few seen or heard of that hunting is rarely attempted.  In the less frequented parts of the country, in the region back of the Santa Ynez, and between San Jacinto and the Mexican line, the deep ca&ntilde;ons doubtless afford a home for many lions that are only occasionally heard of or seen.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The mountain lion is an interesting cat on account of its wide geographical range.  My guide, years ago, entertained me with stories of the panthers lie had seen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>In appearance the lion is a tawny cat bearing some resemblance to an Asiatic lioness, but much smaller: a typical cat, big, long of limb, muscular and beautiful. But here praise ends, as rarely will a mountain lion face a man, being by nature a cowardly animal, creeping upon its prey, and often intimidated by a single dog and hunter.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The big cat kills its game by stealing upon it, generally attempting, in the case of deer, to approach from above, hurling itself from an eminence upon the black-tailed or mule deer.  In Arizona, California, New Mexico, and Montana doubtless many more deer are killed by mountain lions than by hunters.  In some parts of Arizona <illus entity="a031-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Garden of the Mission of Santa Barbara on El Camino Real</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>Mountain climbing is a sport, a pastime, a science, if you will, a science blending with the gentle arts and graces, as your real mountaineer is a poet; so I commend hunting the mountain lion in the Sierra Madre. No more fascinating hunting-ground can be found in the south than the great range, from the head of the Santa Ynez to San Jacinto.  In this restricted area are some of the most interesting peaks in America.</P>
031.sgm:<P>These mountains face the Colorado desert on the east, one of the most desolate places on earth, at times a furnace: the hot air pouring upward in such volume that it leaves a pseudo vacuum, to fill which, the air rushes in from the ocean, explaining the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The Mount Lowe elevated road takes one into the upper range to Alpine Tavern.  Not far away, at Eaton's Ca&ntilde;on, is the beginning of the Mount Wilson trail, which, by an easy grade, takes the mountaineer up to Mount Wilson, where Martin's camp is stationed in a saddle just below the solar observatory of the Carnegie Institute, under charge of Professor George E. Hale.  The pagoda-like observatory looks down into a deep ca&ntilde;on, a gulch of profound depths, the ca&ntilde;on of the San Gabriel River; one of the largest in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>No more interesting mountain road can be found in California than the one from Hemet to Idlewild, or to the upper reaches of Mount San Jacinto, two miles above the Pacific.  To reach this point, the top of the world seemingly, one passes by mysterious Mount Tauquiz, about which the old Indians say strange cries and groans are heard at times, weird tremblings which make the entire mountain shake. Here we find the Tauquiz meadows with running streams eight thousand feet above the sea; and at every rise new charms of scenery appear. The trip to the summit from Idlewild is about thirty miles over a good trail, and from here hundreds of square miles of California can be seen. The changes in forest flora alone repay the trip. From willow, sycamore, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The mountain lover will find a delightful region about Seven Oaks, the head waters of the Santa Ana River, the point of departure being the city of Red- lands from which a twelve-mile stage ride carries one to the half-way house.  From here horses and guide are taken and the ride made up into the valley of the Santa Ana, famed for its trout streams and scenery, almost a mile above the sea.  The country is well wooded with pine trees, and in the vicinity are Bear Valley and its well stocked lake, Barton Flats, South Fork, Cienega Seco, and other places of more or less interest.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The San Bernardino range affords many ca&ntilde;ons and mountain retreats attractive to the mountaineer and sportsman, among which is Skyland above San Bernardino, five thousand feet above the sea.  This country is reached by a good trail or mountain road, once the old Arrowhead toll road from San Bernardino.  Here are many ca&ntilde;ons--Devil, Sandpit, and Dark ca&ntilde;ons,--Squirrel Inn and Little Bear Valley, and reaching away in <illus entity="a031-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Haunts of the Mountain Lion, and Grizzly Peak </HI>
031.sgm: ( <HI REND="bold">11,725 feet high</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>In the ca&ntilde;ons we shall find tall and picturesque sycamores <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Following up the ca&ntilde;ons there is a succession of trees and shrubs.  The little ca&ntilde;ons and valleys are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Climbing higher the chaparral grows thinner, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Climbing up the mountains by the trails the scene is one of constant change.  I have stood on the south flank of the Sierra Madre, four thousand feet above the Pacific, and looked down upon the San Gabriel Valley, one of the garden spots of the world.  I saw its groves of orange, olive, and lemon, its palms and gardens stretching away for miles at my feet, resting in the green <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:chaparral, yet in ten feet, by passing around a spur of the mountain, I reached the north side where the snow was a foot deep on the trail and every peak and slope was covered with snow as far as the eye could reach. Not only could one see winter and semi-tropic summer at a sweeping glance, but could leap from one to the other.  This marvellous transformation is often seen lower down. On the upper slopes are found many pines, <HI REND="italics">ponderosa, albicaulis</HI>
031.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">monticola</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Up to four thousand feet the great mass of the chaparral has been made up of <HI REND="italics">Adenostoma</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The highest mountain in the southern Sierras is Grizzly Peak, or Grayback, eleven thousand seven hundred and twenty-five feet, capping the San Bernardino section of the Sierra Madre, and remarkable as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>I have approached these mountains from the desert, where the stupendous masses of rock face a temperature menacing in its heat, and look down upon one of the most desolate scenes on the habitable globe.  Nowhere is there a greater contrast than this heated wall of rock of San Jacinto looking down on Indio and Salton and the Salton sink, the bottom of an ancient sea two hundred and eighty feet below the level of the Gulf of California, and the region just over the divide that forms the splendid park region of San Jacinto Mountain, with its brooks, forests, and lakes.  The most stolid mountain-climber is awed and silenced at the peaks, ranges, chasms, and gulches that stretch away before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>To the north-west, great ranges drop away to an altitude of five thousand feet, deeply wooded with pine, leaping downward like some living thing into the Cajon Pass to rise a green maze to Mount Cucamonga, tumbling away to the west, rising again in San Antonio to ten thousand feet, while far beyond are peaks which tell of the Sierra Nevada, taking one in imagination the entire length of this stupendous range that forms the backbone of California and stands a protecting barrier between the desert and the deep sea.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XI</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Valley Quail</P>
031.sgm:<P>ONE of the last quail hunts in which I participated led me over the San Rafael Hills, which rise to the west of the head of the San Gabriel Valley.  Along the ridges I followed up the coyote trails to the summits, and looked down into a score of little valleys hoping to see a covey or hear the rich " <HI REND="italics">po-ta-toe</HI>
031.sgm: " rising from the green depths of the chaparral or see the birds in the open, but all to no purpose.  As I wandered home in the cool evening I dropped over the edge of the Arroyo Seco, crossed it, and had climbed the opposite side, hardly a rifle shot from my home, when I walked into a large flock of quail; they were running across the dusty road into a field of dried burr clover, and, once there, stood and looked at me not fifty feet away, while I, returning from my quail hunt, also looked.  This is what I saw--a flock of little birds, not quite so large as the bob-white, but each bearing jauntily a plume that fell over its bill to the front, giving the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:bird a most <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bonnaire</HI>
031.sgm: appearance.   In colour they were a mass of blue ash or slate, with striped chestnut hues below, with flashes of sun gold, white, black, and tan.  The throat of the male was black, and he had a white "eyebrow" and a collar of white around his black throat, a radiant little creature, a pheasant in its colour scheme, and the incident of our meeting well illustrates the habit of the little bird.  I did not fire; one cannot shoot down a neighbour in cold blood, if the laws do permit. Some of these birds nest in an adjacent garden, and I can often hear the melody of their notes in the Arroyo, or the thunder of their wings as they rise from the open and plunge down into the depths of the deep abyss.  So, if one <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
031.sgm: have quail without compunctions of conscience, he goes away from home, out into the country in the unsettled districts where there is sport of the finest quality.  When I first came to Southern California, plumed quail could be found everywhere.  They lived in all the ca&ntilde;ons and little valleys of the foothills, and held high revelry in the openings where the gravel of the wash spread out, fan-like, and merged into the low chaparral.  Their flute-like notes could be heard at all times-- <HI REND="italics">whit-whit-whit</HI>
031.sgm: --when you were near, and when far away the loud, screeching clarion challenge of the male--po- <HI REND="italics">t&amacr;</HI>
031.sgm: --t&ouml;e, po- <HI REND="italics">t&amacr;</HI>
031.sgm: --toe, or ca- <HI REND="italics">c&amacr;</HI>
031.sgm: -cow.  But the fencing up of the country, the growth of towns, has pushed the little birds out of back yards, and to obtain good sport the outlying country must be tried, where the dainty birds are found in vast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:numbers, and the vibrant <HI REND="italics">whi-r-r-r-r-r-r-r-r</HI>
031.sgm: often fills the air.  No bird is so disconcerting.  Recently, at Santa Catalina, in the off season, I was riding along when at a sudden turn my horse faced a covey of quail in the road.  Did they rise? Not at all.  The hens ran down the road a way, while the cock stood his ground, walking back and forth in a comical fashion, as though saying, "You know it is not the season and I am safe."  These birds refused to fly and walked some distance down the road, then  into the low bushes, where they watched me with many a note-- <HI REND="italics">whit-whit-whit</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Laguna and vicinity is one of the best quail grounds, and there are scores of localities all down the coast as good.  You find the birds, perhaps, in some little valley shut in by hills, whose sides are covered with green Adenostoma and whose edges, perhaps, are broken with cactus patches. The air is clear, with a marvellous carrying capacity, and suddenly there comes woo- <HI REND="italics">wha</HI>
031.sgm: -ho, woo- <HI REND="italics">wha</HI>
031.sgm: -ho , and from another point or ca&ntilde;on rises o- <HI REND="italics">hi</HI>
031.sgm: -o, and many variants, possibly with a slightly different inflection.  We are in the quail country, there can be no question as to that.  They have not discovered you, and louder come the sweet notes, tuck- <HI REND="italics">ca</HI>
031.sgm: -cue, tuck- <HI REND="italics">a</HI>
031.sgm: -hoe, of the males, who are calling for the mere pleasure of it.  Perhaps you are walking down the  ridge  and now look over; perhaps your gun has caught a sun gleam and tossed it into the next ca&ntilde;on, as up from the sage comes <HI REND="italics">whit-whit-whit,</HI>
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031.sgm:the warning of the quail, and then perfect silence; then <HI REND="italics">wook-wook</HI>
031.sgm:, and from far away, wak- <HI REND="italics">wha</HI>
031.sgm: -who.  You creep carefully over the divide to find them gone; indeed the flock is <HI REND="italics">running</HI>
031.sgm:<P>In point of fact, every ordinary rule is broken by the successful California quail hunter, and I well recall the amusement of a friend from the East when we were working up on a covey when I fired into the air over their heads.  But he soon saw the philosophy of the movement.  We were between them and the thick chaparral-covered hills, and they rose with a roar of wings and separated, going in all directions.  And <HI REND="italics">then</HI>
031.sgm: our hunt began, as we moved on through the sage, the birds lying low and rising in the most unexpected fashion.  One of my first experiences was in hunting over a descendant of the famous "Bang Bang."  He <illus entity="a031-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Haunts of the Valley Quail near Pasadena County Club</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>If the birds can be kept in the open in low brush, the sport conducted in this way is excellent, and the slopes of Laguna to the sea are an attractive place. Often the birds fly to the nearest hill, and you see them, with wings set, pitching over a divide and plunging into the chaparral like shots out of a rapid-firing gun. Then comes the <HI REND="italics">whit-whit-whit</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Before the green has left the lowlands, and when the land is still running riot with flowers, early in April, the quail, or valley partridge, begins to nest, and the period extends far into the summer.  The nest is often placed in an obscure place.  It may be in your garden, or beneath a sage-brush, and I have found them in the Arroyo Seco, near water, hidden in a mass of vines, the bird darting out and trying every artifice to coax me away. From nine to twenty-three eggs have been found, but the average is from sixteen to seventeen.  The young are able to run when a day or two old, and present an attractive sight, running in long lines.  In a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Quail hunting takes the sportsman into the open and affords him some of the most delightful glimpses of Southern California.  If the San Gabriel fails there are countless valleys near Santa Barbara, in San Diego, Orange, Riverside, San Bernardino, and other counties which afford excellent shooting; or, one may go up the coast through Ventura or along shore above Santa Monica, or to Santa Catalina, where at the camp at Eagle's Nest, where the ca&ntilde;on dips down toward the sea, I have sat and watched the quail and listened to their continuous  calls, <HI REND="italics">kwok-kwoo--kwok-kwo</HI>
031.sgm: --or <HI REND="italics">o-hi-o, o-hi-o</HI>
031.sgm:, or <HI REND="italics">ka-loi-o, ka-wak-up</HI>
031.sgm:<P>In February, when the charm of winter is at its height, the land is often ablaze with colour, and the sportsman may walk through little valleys carpeted with a cloth of gold, when the yellow and white daisy-like blossoms star the ground, and the yellow violet nods in the gentle wind, or he may emerge into a little valley where the painter's brush has drawn its colour scheme as far as the eye can see, while the low trees are covered with the brilliant red of the honeysuckle.  Led on and on, he finds the golden mustard and later the indigo of the larkspur blending in the sun, and on the edge of the little wash trumpet-like flowers, a flame of colour. In the wash, across which the birds now run, the <illus entity="a031-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Desc&aacute;nso Bay. A White Sea-Bass Corner. Santa Catalina</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>I am free to confess that I have never shot a mountain quail, as I always feel that I never could find a satisfying excuse for destroying so beautiful a creature.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I first saw them on the north slope of a peak about ten miles back of Mount Wilson, in the very heart of the Sierra Madre.  I was lying under the thick branches of a wild lilac, resting after a hard climb, when through a leafy arcade, not one hundred feet away, came five or six mountain quail.  I had just left a branch of the stream, and all about were brakes, giant ferns, and forests of the more delicate kinds, with here and there the tall stalk of the mountain tiger lily.  A tree that had been thrown over in the long ago and covered with lichens lay half buried in the dense underbrush, and down this highway came the jaunty band, stopping every now and then, and uttering a peculiarly musical note that sounded like <HI REND="italics">clo, clo, cl, cl, cl</HI>
031.sgm:; then coming on until they reached a point hardly thirty feet from me, when they again stopped and eyed me with idle curiosity, then came ten feet nearer.  A more dainty creature with its long plumes it would be difficult to imagine.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>I did not move, and they came on until within six feet of me, gazing with their gentle brown eyes, looking me over, examining my gun, and evidently deciding that I was some kind of a sportsman, but harmless.  As they paused, I uttered a low whistle and they turned, each lifting its head, as though to catch the sound, and then like magic they melted away.  If any one has the fancy for the hardest kind of hunting, in the hardest kind of country, I can commend this, as the birds while often seen in the foothills are found principally in the thickest chaparral of the upper ranges, and to follow them requires, at least did when I knew them, the most difficult climbing.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The nest of this quail has been found hardly a mile from my home, four miles from the base of the Sierra Madre; but the nests are not easy to find and are mostly in the heart of the great range where nature has afforded them ample protection.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There is still another quail in Southern California, the quail of the desert, or Gambel's partridge, found principally in Arizona, but also on the borders of the desert where it merges into the high mountains of California.  In many ways the bird resembles the valley quail, and its habits are similar, though it has the desert habit and seems to love the regions that man avoids, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XII</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Heart of the Desert</P>
031.sgm:<P>The Pronghorn</P>
031.sgm:<P>IT is among the strange anomalies of life that some men see a charm in regions that others describe as God-forgotten; localities where Nature is at her worst, where the elements are abroad, searching for life, falling upon every living thing.  I have crossed the great American deserts many times; have seen them in all their moods, have driven over parts of them when the limit of heat endurance was seemingly reached, and never found any one who cared to live there; yet it is rare to find one who fails to recognise the peculiar attraction of these sand wastes, the home of the mirage and sand-storm.  I recall the sunset illumination of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, which rise in what some might call a desert, yet far from it, and have since observed the same effect in the Sierra Madre from the desert to the east of Mojave. No more forbidding vista ever filled human vision than parts of this desert, constituting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The scene when the wind, developed into a sand- storm, sweeps down this vast pass, or el <HI REND="italics">Caj&oacute;n</HI>
031.sgm:, is beyond description.  The very earth appears to be lifted into the air and carried on, a wall of copper-coloured cloud. With even a full knowledge of this region it is difficult to select one portion which has not at times some feature that appeals to the imagination, yet is calculated to alarm the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:physical man; but, in my experience, possibly the strange valley which reaches north from Cochise in the territory is the most remarkable.  Little wonder the ancient people had legends of giants and possible genii, as no desert region in America presents so weird an appearance. To the south the eye rests upon a vast lake, which can be seen ten or twelve miles distant from  the  slopes of the mountains, and when I first saw it, its beauty was entrancing. Away to the south, on its borders, were hills of purple, each  reflected as clearly as though photographed, and still beyond rose the caps and summits of other peaks and mountains rising from this inland sea, whose waters were of turquoise; yet, as we moved down the slope, the lake was always stealing on before.  It was of the things dreams are made of, that has driven men mad and to despair, its bed a level floor of alkali and clay, covered with a dry, impalpable dust that the slightest wind tossed and whirled In aIr.  No more beautiful mirage can be seen in this country if one cares to visit the region in August. As I watched this lake of the imagination, I saw the rise of the genii of Cochise from its mirror-like surface. Like the giant of Sindbad, from the flask of the fisherman, they rose upward in weird and colossal shapes, then moved slowly off over the surface to the south.  On my last visit to this valley in mid summer of 1903, this marvellous scene was at its best, and from fifty to one hundred sand or dust-spouts or columns could be seen sweeping down this valley of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Once while crossing this valley--which despite its menacing character is to be a desert reclaimed and a railroad point of importance in the future,--innumerable sand-spouts appeared to join forces, forming a gigantic column seemingly a mile in height.  It was of a lurid, copper tint, menacing in shape and colour, sweeping along with the stride of the wind, its upper portion whirling about as though in a vortex.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Despite the disagreeable features of these desert phenomena, their beauties, the grandeur of the effects, more than repay one. What can be more beautiful than the view from the desert near Palm Springs? As night draws on, the tops of the mountains are tipped with the most brilliant vermilion, which grows deeper and more firelike as day shortens, and all the time, out from the countless ca&ntilde;ons, cuts, and passes, creep deep shadows, like living things, venturing out as the sun loses its power.  At first they flood the ca&ntilde;ons, then flow down, spreading out in ineffable tints, stealing out upon the sands of the desert into its very heart until they fairly fill it, and the great waste is a purple sea, awash with the panoply of night.  At sunrise this strange transformation scene is reversed.  The tips of the range are again bathed in vermilion and the shadows slink away, <illus entity="a031-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">A Desert Forest. Native Palms near Palm Springs, California</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>No one can deny the charm of such a region, and the impulse to move on and into the heart of the desert is often almost irresistible, the strange buttes ever beckoning on. The vegetation of the desert, while forbidding, has its attractions.  What might be considered the very heart of the desert, as the alkali plain between Yuma and the Sierra Madre, is apparently divested of vegetation, but careful examination shows something growing in the gullies, and even where the sand is tossed like snow, a grass appears fighting for supremacy, while a few bushes struggle upward. On the edge of the desert, in ca&ntilde;ons which at times reflect the summer heat like a furnace and through which the superheated air rushes, are seen lofty palms, their roots deep in the rocky channel that the winter rains have made.  In some of the ca&ntilde;ons the palms grow in great numbers.  Apparently the seeds are swept down on to the lower levels, and where the ca&ntilde;on opens out and becomes a wide valley groves of lofty palms are seen,--among the most picturesque and beautiful forms of the desert.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It is doubtful if one can make a strong enough plea for the desert to induce people to visit it.  Thousands cross its very heart every year to reach Southern California; indeed one cannot reach the Pacific by land except by the desert route; but the average tourist fails to see it, as the railroad has so arranged that the passage of this dry Styx is made by night; thus its varied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Few places are more desolate than the slope of the Sierra Madre as it rolls down into the Mojave country; yet I have always been rewarded by the splendours of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>But turn to the Sierra Madre at sundown and tell me whether the desert has called you in vain.  Watch the purple shadows creep out of distant ca&ntilde;ons and encompass the pallid desert.  See the banners of encarnadine painting each cliff and peak until the entire range is suffused with a warm glow, as though some roseate lace-like film had been drawn over them as they sank into the deep gloom of the night.</P>
031.sgm:<P>But what have the deserts to do with sport?--you will ask.  I might reply that the study of the desert affords infinite pastime.  Come down through the forest of yucca, where the mountains sink away to the sage- brush, when the winter has come, when the sky is clear, and the rain has washed from the air every scintillating atom; come into the shadow of this clump of desert brush on the edge of a wash.  Your eye may see nothing in this vague landscape, this blaze of colour and tint, that Lungren knows and paints so well; but if your luck is with you and is of a specious quality, suddenly something moves far away in the centre of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Not many years ago the pronghorn was among the commonest animals in the open country.  Large herds lived in the vicinity of Elizabeth Lake, and the great valley that extends from the Mojave desert west, or north-west, was named for them.  In those days they could also be found in the Mojave and along the mountains of California everywhere.  They appeared to rise from the bed of the pallid silent sea of sand.  But, like the buffalo, the antelope has been crowded to the wall in California, and a few small herds only haunt the great desert of to-day.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In his antelope range map of 1902, Merriam recognises a few in the extreme north-west of California, and another herd near the Mexican line where Imperial and <illus entity="a031-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Candle Cactus, Lower California and Arizona</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>Within fifteen years there has been excellent antelope hunting in the Mojave and Antelope valleys, which shows how suddenly this game has been driven out by the march of enterprise.  On the Mojave desert I met an old Californian who told me that he had had the sport of his life before he got so "long in the tooth."  His method was to follow the antelope on horseback; either run it down, or shoot it from the saddle at full speed--a dangerous and sportsmanlike method in strong contrast to the fashion of some hunters who entice the little creature up to them by "ways that are dark" and shoot it down, a victim to curiosity.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The pronghorn is one of the most interesting of all American animals, and should be shot only with a camera.  It is the only hollow-horned animal that sheds its horn sheaths--a feature that was long denied or doubted, and believed impossible.  In the early days it roamed over the great plains and was essentially an animal of the open.  Its hair is rough and stiff, its horns graceful, with a single prong half.way up, and near their base the large and prominent eyes which enable them to see an enemy for a long distance behind.  In the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>A fascinating part of the desert is that portion near Indio, where, in the present year, that spectre of this desert, the "Salton sea," rose and filled the Salton basin until the Indians, who took to the hills, could not see across.  This strange phenomenon threatened various desert towns, and bridges were washed away. Boats were built in Imperial in this year when the Rio Colorado ran wild, broke through the intakes of the big irrigating canal, and found its way by old trails and new river-beds to the Salton sink, two hundred and eighty feet beneath the level of the sea.  The last time I rode into Indio the locusts were "stabbing the air with their shrill alarms," and one could smell the heat.  It was too hot for originality, so I remarked to a native that it was hot, it being 110&deg; in the shade.  He smiled and begged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>In the vicinity of Indio one finds a palm forest, one of the things worth seeing; a forest of tall fan palms, which appear to be indigenous to the locality, reaching down into Lower California.  They are found growing in the narrow heated ca&ntilde;ons, their roots in the hot seeping water; others out in the wash of the ca&ntilde;on's mouth--splendid examples of a desert forest which appeal to the imagination and the lover of the picturesque.  Not long in the past this entire area has been under water; an old sea-beach may be traced a long distance from near Yuma to Indio, and a water line can be seen along the base of the mountains that form the barrier between the desert and the garden spot of Southern California.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Nearer the delta the land is being reclaimed, and ranches and farms laid out, and with the Midas-like touch of water the desert sands turn to gold; and where once sandy dunes drifted to and fro, vast fields of grain lie rippling in the sun, telling of the desert reclaimed and homes where some one may yet sing with Byron,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh! that the desert were my dwelling-place<LB>With one fair spirit for my minister--<LB>That I might all forget the human race<LB>And, hating no one, love but only her.</HI>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XIII</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>El Camino Real</P>
031.sgm:<P>(Coaching or Automobiling)</P>
031.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES was the starting-point, the centre of radiation for many of our coaching and riding trips to Santa Barbara and beyond and through Southern California to the adobes of Tia Juana.  To see Southern California effectively the trip should be made by coach, motor-car, carriage, or on horseback. Excellent roads extend all over the country, inviting one to the old ranches, ca&ntilde;ons, ruins, and Missions which cannot be seen from car windows.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It was a mere conceit, perhaps, but remembering that in the olden time pilgrims and travellers in this fair country found a Mission at the end of nearly every day's journey from San Francisco to San Diego and beyond, along <HI REND="italics">El Camino Real</HI>
031.sgm:, the King's Highway, we determined to emulate the ancient custom and go over the old roads; not on horseback, as did the old Californian, but in a four-in-hand, making as nearly as possible a Mission every night, seeking the hospitality of its secularised walls in reverential fashion, as did the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The plan had not only an essence of romance and novelty to commend it, but was within the possibilities, the ecclesiastical chain being as follows, beginning at Santa Barbara:</P>
031.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara Mission, founded in 1786, by coach to the Mission of San Buenaventura (1783).  From San Buenaventura to Mission of San Fernando (1797), then to the Mission of San Gabriel Archangel (1771).  From San Gabriel to San Juan Capistrano (1776). From San Juan to the trio of Missions of Pala, Rincon, and Pauma, Pala to San Luis Rey de Francia (1798).  San Luis Rey to the Mission of San Diego de Acala (1769). Not only could these Missions be reached in a single day's journey, but inns or hotels were available.  This with the guaranty of fair roads, good weather, and choice scenery made the trip one of more than pleasant anticipation.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The four-in-hand was not running on time; there were no relays to be met; hence the attempt to make a new Mission every night was not directly adhered to, though the ecclesiastical route was followed literally as outlined, with many an interesting side-trip to ca&ntilde;on, seashore, and mountain range. Under such inspiration a jolly party bowled toward the Santa Barbara Mission one morning, and reined up under its ancient walls. The "outfit" was a modernised California coach, the plethoric boot packed with hampers of good things; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>According to a calendar which the young lady on the box seat carried, it was that thoroughly uncomfortable period midway the Christmas holidays and the first of March, when in the East thaws and violent freezes follow each other like avenging Nemeses; yet here nature seemed conspiring to impugn the testimony of the records.  It was winter as the seasons go, but to all intents and purposes midsummer in Southern California.  The cool breeze was coming in from the Pacific, sweeping up the mesa of the old town, bowling over acres of golden poppies, robbing the field of wild forget-me-nots of its perfume and carrying it over the Mission wall, to mingle with the floral incense of the old church garden. The driver called it a winter day; yet as he flecked his leaders and the horn gave an answering note to the meadow lark on the Mission wall, there was not one in the party who really believed that the Ides of March were near at hand.</P>
031.sgm:<P>From the highlands about the Mission the finest view of Santa Barbara is obtained. The Pacific is before us, stretching away to illimitable distance, the crescent-shaped beach facing the south, from which reaches back the intervening town with its broad streets lined with palm, pepper, magnolia, and a wealth of semi-tropical plants and trees.  To the north lies the Santa Ynez Valley, the blue ocean on one side, the mountains on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>It was at the Mission that the complete supremacy of man was demonstrated, as, after interviewing the courteous Fathers, the gentlemen of the party were invited into the Mission garden, while the ladies rested in the outer hall, consumed with curiosity.  No woman--with one or two notable exceptions, as the Princess Louise--had ever entered the garden, so it was said; and the old gardener, gowned and cowled, laughingly told of the pretexts adopted by fair visitors, who evidently believed that the grim walls concealed some deep and unfathomable mystery.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The Mission of Santa Barbara is the only one that has never been out of Franciscan control, and is one of the finest in the State, standing as it did nearly a century ago when its bells rang the Angelus, their echoes calling the faithful up the deep ca&ntilde;ons of the Santa Ynez.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The Father told us of the ancient splendours of the church, of its inception by Junipero Serra, its erection in 1786 by Father Antonio Paterna, and detailed its completion in 1794.  In 1810-12, he said, it was almost shattered by earthquakes, but was ultimately rebuilt, then torn down and the present building founded in 1820. We entered the old dormitories, the workshops once filled with native artisans, stood on the red-tiled roof, and looked down upon the broad, arched corridors where the Fathers walk and read; strolled among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>This Mission as a whole is a delight to the artistic eye.  The cell-like rooms, the ancient and worn stone pavements, the crude doors with huge iron trappings, the high windows, enormous walls, the odour of sanctity, all tend to complete a historical picture of deep interest.  Without, the commanding front with its two towers of stone and adobe pierced with arched doors, the lofty facade with its finely cut columns, the timeworn statues of the saints above, make the pile at once striking and impressIve.  No little architectural and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>But we have tarried too long.  A number of dark-eyed penitents are waiting for the Father by the confessional, and after handing an ancient nail or spike of the old Mission as a memento to one lady, a photograph of the church and some flowers from the garden to others, the Father disappears to banish the past in the sins of the present generation.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara reminds one of some of the Mediterranean resorts, and has been compared to Nice; but the comparison is hardly just. The American resort has the advantage in climate, is always delightful, indeed perfect, winter or summer. Its winter mean is 54.29&deg;, that of Nice 47.88&deg;; its summer mean 67.71&deg;, that of Nice 72&deg;; its difference between winter and summer 13&deg; to 24&deg; of Nice.  Again, the Barbarian of the Saints, as the young lady on the box seat calls our host, tells us that the hot, burning winds of Southern Europe are never known here, that this is the only true paradise, the real land of <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The quiet old town, with its fine hotels, long asphalt paved streets, its miles of gardens and splendid drives <illus entity="a031-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Pampas Grass, San Diego, on El Camino Real</HI>
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031.sgm:shops for the sale of curiosities; its Chinatown, where the odour of opium and firecrackers mingles with the perfume of flowers; its long wharf, yachts, and vessels, all offer inducements to tarry.  Parts of Spanish-town still remain inviolate, and we are told of the glories of the old De la Guerra mansion, where Richard H. Dana witnessed a marriage festival in 1836.  The family is still living in Santa Barbara.  We buy a <HI REND="italics">reboso</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Near here we drive through the fine ranches of Hollister, Cooper, and Stowe, the former known as "Glen Annie." "Ellwood," the Cooper homestead, is famous for its olive orchard, the largest in Southern California, also in America, with works the perfection of neatness, over which the courteous host takes us.  The home is embowered with flowers from every clime, a garden the year round.  From here we pass for several miles up the picturesque little ca&ntilde;on by the side of a stream and beneath trees that were young in the days of the Franciscan padres, and, finally, at the head of the ravine, halt for a consideration of the well-filled hampers which the coach is made to disgorge--for this is a feature of coaching in Southern California; the midday meal is carried, and a picnic is enjoyed in some nook or corner that may meet the eye.</P>
031.sgm:<P>From this region numerous trips can be made to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>We could have reached the Ojai Valley, thirty-seven miles south-east from Santa Barbara, through the Cacitas Pass, but preferred to go by the Mission of San Buenaventura, thirty miles away. This took us through the delightful suburbs of El Montecito--with its hot sulphur springs far up the ca&ntilde;on, thirteen hundred feet above the sea, where the Indians resorted years ago,--by nooks and corners of the Santa Ynez, the San Marcos Pass, and the Painted Cave and Rocks.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The stage road winds along the edge of the shore, gleaming sandy crescents succeeding one another in endless variety. Through the orange groves of El <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>"Who were these people ?" asks some one. "No sabe, se&ntilde;or," puffs the Mexican.</P>
031.sgm:<P>He might have said that his house was resting on a veritable kitchen-midden, a town-site of the early Californians, which Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo discovered when he sailed up the Santa Barbara Channel nearly three hundred and fifty years ago.  He might have said that the adventurer found this land the site of many villages, where once lived thousands of happy natives. He might have told us that his ancestors were of the party, and that they buried the great captain, Cabrillo, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Our road follows the beach through Carpenteria, past graceful sand-dunes where rich grasses grow, where the faint track of sea-birds is seen and the roar of the surf breaks gently on the ear.  Beyond lies the ocean, as smooth as a disk of steel, with beds of kelp floating lightly on its surface-the resting place of the gull and otter; and here the sail of a Chinese junk, the green slopes of the Santa Ynez on the other side, and little ca&ntilde;ons reaching down to the shore, playing a veritable game of hide-and-seek with the gleaming ocean.  Now an adobe ranges into view, with its barren, well-worn door-yard, its <HI REND="italics">ramada</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Down we plunge into the little arroyo, splashing across the clear brook that, with its sparkling sands and dashing trout, comes gurgling down under the arcades of alder and willow; up the bank with a rush, winding through a grove of live oaks where the tap-tap of the woodpecker echoes, and the gray squirrel flashes his fox-like tail; out into the fields again, on to the road lined with yellow violets, bluebells, cream-cups, daisies, poppies, bluettes, and other wild flowers that seem to reach far up to the manzanita forests of the upper slopes. <illus entity="a031-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Palms of the Mission of San Fernando Rey on the King's Highway</HI>
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031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>From the hillside comes the note of the valley quail, then the roar of its wings.  The nest of the wood-rat hangs on a limb; the air is filled with insect life dancing lightly in the sunbeams, all on this winter day.</P>
031.sgm:<P>And so on we go, over the same road that Father Junipero Serra and Governor Felipe de Neve with their guard of sixty soldiers passed when marching to found the Presidio of Santa Barbara one hundred and nine years ago, and with a final burst of speed, ride bravely into the old town of San Buenaventura, cross the shallow river that creeps lazily out from the grove of alders and willows, round the big hill that divides the town, and passing the shadows of the old Mission of San Buenaventura seek the more material comforts of the Inn of the Roses.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In and about San Buenaventura there are rides of no little interest.  The Ojai Valley is but a few miles away along a seductive trout stream that successfully woos the coacher; but the old Mission is the <HI REND="italics">pi&egrave;ce de r&eacute;sistance</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The San Buenaventura Mission, which was founded in 1783, is small, but well preserved.  It has a large belfry or bell tower, a large enclosure, but lacks the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>From San Buenaventura the road pitches down into a wide valley, and we ride by the sea, which has a long fine beach from which can be seen the jagged points of Anacapa Island. We pass through Hueneme, then turn to the east, passing Camulos and so on to San Fernando.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Up through a delightful country we roll along, stopping for the night at Santa Paula, the following day reaching San Fernando Valley, and the Mission of that name, that has long been one of the attractive ruins of the State.  Here we see some of the tallest palms in Southern California, the remains of the old Mission olive grove, and a long line of splendid Moorish arches and tiled roofs, preserved from utter destruction by the Landmarks Club of Los Angeles.  The padre tells us that Lasuen dedicated the Mission in 1797, and that the present ruin dates from 1806, being named after King Fernando III. of Spain, who was canonised in 1671 by the Pope.</P>
031.sgm:<P>At this time of the year San Fernando is a garden. The chaparral is rich in greens, and the songs of the mocking-bird and the meadow-lark are heard on every side.  Rising to the south are the green slopes of the Sierra Santa Monica Mountains that finally leap into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Los Angeles is but a few miles distant, but the coach keeps to the left, along the foothills of the Sierra Madre, and enters the Ca&ntilde;ada through a series of fine ranches, and so passes out into the San Gabriel, crossing the Arroyo Seco above Pasadena, a charming and modern city, the centre of tourist interest in Southern California, abounding in fine hotels and drives, and remarkable for its climate, winter and summer, the best test of which is the long list of well-known men and women of the East who have made their home here.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Pasadena is but four miles from the wall of the Sierra Madre, nine miles from Los Angeles, and three from the old Mission of San Gabriel, in the town of that name.  Of all the valleys of Southern California, the San Gabriel is the richest, the most beautiful ; and climbing to the summit of Raymond Hill, which the genius of Walter Raymond has made famous, the coachers are confronted with what is doubtless one of the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Drop the eyes and they rest upon the garden spot of this country: thousands of acres in the highest state of cultivation, groves of orange, lemon, olive, walnut, and nearly every fruit; great vineyards; groves of eucalyptus and live oak, telling the story of life in the open in a land of balmy airs and eternal summer. Here are some of the notable California ranches, as Sunny Slope and Santa Anita, with their fine reaches of forests, their lofty palms, and seemingly endless lines of orange trees, ranch houses embowered in tropical verdure, and the ranch property reaching away for miles toward the distant sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The coach rolls through great vineyards, and everywhere evidences of the highest cultivation are evident. Later, at the vintage, gangs of Mexicans, men and women, can be seen picking and filling their boxes with fragrant Mission grapes; no more delightful region for coaching or automobiling can be imagined than this.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Pasadena is a city of 25,000 inhabitants, recruited from among the wealthy and cultivated people of the East, and is said to be the wealthiest town of its size in the world.  It stands in the literal heart of an orange <illus entity="a031-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">An Avenue of Palms, Los Angeles</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>As the coach turns to the south and passes through the long orange groves something comes down the wind from far away,--the bells of San Gabriel Archangel, the same tones that rang out the Angelus years ago and invited the savages of the valley to a better life.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There is a variety in this out-of-door life that lends an additional charm to the country, seen from the top of a coach.  The yellow splendours of the meadow-lark's breast blaze for a moment on the mesa; plumed quails run into the road, stop and eye us, then hurry along, with nodding plumes, to rise almost under the leaders' heads, and fill the sleepy air with the thunder of their wings. Early in the morning cotton-tails, fluffy and tender, may be seen darting in and out among the cactus; or in some wash, in the shadow of the sage-brush, sits a long-eared hare, which darts away, bounding into the air as though on springs.  Little gray owls nod at you from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>We follow up the sound of clanking bells and enter the narrow streets of San Gabriel, with its adobes, and stop in the shadow of the old Mission that to-day stands like a fortress defying time, an imposing and picturesque monument to the devotion of the early padres to the cause of Christianity.</P>
031.sgm:<P>San Gabriel Archangel, which was founded in 1771 by Padres Cambon and Angel Somero, was originally one of the finest and wealthiest of the Missions.  Its long buttressed building is suggestive of strength, and, it is said, repelled many an Indian attack in the early days.  It is the second building of the Mission, begun in 1775 and finished about twenty-five years later.  Still <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The padre takes us into various rooms in the Mission, reverently displays the rich vestments and old records in Padre Jose Maria Zalvidea's handwriting, from which we learn that the first Indian was baptized in 1771, and in the first twenty-five years of its history over four thousand Indians were baptized there.  San Gabriel once owned hundreds of acres and vast herds of cattle.  The belfry is picturesque, and has four bells which still call the faithful down the valley of San Gabriel.  The old Mission was repaired by J. De Barth Shorb, several years ago, and is still in use by the people of the vicinity, who, despite the American invasion, cling to San Gabriel and its memories</P>
031.sgm:<P>In all probability <HI REND="italics">El Camino Real</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Down the valley, by Monrovia, Duarte, and Azusa, the coach bowls, passing through a continuous garden, stopping at Pomona for the night, then on by Ontario, Cucamonga--famous for its wine,--to Colton and Riverside with its splendid vistas of orange groves, its long rows of palms and magnolias.  We tarry in this splendid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The night is passed at Perris, and then we move on to Lake Elsinore, backed against the green hills. From here the road winds along to Murrietta, at the base of the Santa Margarita range, where a great ranch rests on the top of the mountains, well repaying the climb. From here a magnificent view over Riverside and San Diego counties is had,--mountains and hills everywhere tumbling away toward the sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The drive from Murrietta to Pala is of much interest and takes the coachers through little valleys of wild oak, past Temecula and the great ranches of Gonzales, Santa Rosa, Pauba, Wolf, and others.  These and the picturesque tule houses or huts of the Pachango Indians enliven the miles as they slip away. Then there are the stops for luncheon beneath great live oaks, new vistas of old and familiar mountains that rise, colossal barriers, against the heated desert.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Soon the coach turns down the road by Mount Palomar, part of which is hewn out of the solid rock. Here is coaching indeed, and everywhere are found evidences of the tremendous forces of nature which have rent and torn this mountainside.  We pitch down from the highlands and come out into the little valley of Pala, in which is Pala Mission, and the home of the Warner Ranch Indians.</P>
031.sgm:<illus entity="a031-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Mission of San Diego de Alcala and Date Palms on El Camino Real</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>I first visited Pala and Pauma, ten miles nearer the desert, to see the Fiesta of San Luis Rey.  A <HI REND="italics">ram&aacute;da</HI>
031.sgm: had been built, an oblong shelter of brush, arranged with booths along the sides, in the centre of which was the dancing-floor.  All the country people, the first families and all the rest, for miles around, had come in, mostly Mexicans, and a scattering of Indians, who were camping in the vicinity.  During the day there were horse-races and games of various kinds.  The old Indians danced and sang, but the chief display was at night when the <HI REND="italics">ram&aacute;da</HI>
031.sgm: was lighted with lanterns.  It was "on with the dance, let joy be unconfined," in the most solemn fashion.  The <HI REND="italics">ram&aacute;da was</HI>
031.sgm:<P>As darkness grew apace, the young Mexican women took seats around the dancing-floor, and a violin and guitar began to pour forth the melodious strains of <HI REND="italics">La Paloma</HI>
031.sgm:.  A young man would steal up behind the woman of his fancy and break a <HI REND="italics">cascar&oacute;n</HI>
031.sgm: on her raven locks--they were all raven--and over them would fall, like snowflakes, masses of gold, silver, and coloured paper, which had filled the egg.  It was a Spanish invitation to dance, and the lady thus decorated rose, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:bespangled and blushing, and accepted, the two beginning an interminable whirling, often confined to a few feet.  I watched this <HI REND="italics">b&aacute;ile</HI>
031.sgm: most of the evening, but in all that joyous period I did not hear a laugh or see a smile; surely the Mexican takes his pleasure seriously, at least at Pala.  When the dance was over the maiden was released and took her seat, the gallant going out to smoke, play, or drink alone.  Let us hope that he quaffed to one of the serious maidens left silent and alone on the floor of the <HI REND="italics">ram&aacute;da</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The old chapel Mission of San Antonio de Pala, now an interesting ruin, was founded by Padre Peyri, and is an excellent example of the crude early Mission. The long chapel is of stone or adobe, and contains a life-size statue of San Antonio de Pala; also one of St. Louis, King of France, which is borne up and down the plaza on feast days by the devout Indians.  Pala was founded in 1816, and differs from all the Missions along the King's Highway in having a disconnected or isolated belfry which stands out distinct, alone.</P>
031.sgm:<P>From Pala the road turns to the west, and we follow the creek toward the sea.  It is impossible to convey an idea of the charm of riding through this land of dreams in the dead of winter.  The country is carpeted in tender greens; great masses of star-eyed flowers cover acres, and roll away like the waves of the sea, lost in the distance.  Here the red of painter's-brush lends a flush to the mesa, and the air, soft as velvet, fans the cheek, an elixir of health.  The flute-like song <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>We pass the San Luis Rey River, Fallbrook, and finally the coach rolls into San Luis Rey de Francia, and is again on the King's Highway, as in all probability it once ran up and down the coast, having made the inland tour as described.  San Luis Rey, while a ruin, is a sumptuous pile, and originally was one of the finest Missions in Southern California.  It was dedicated in 1798 by President Lasuen and Padres Santiago and Peyri.  Contemplating the ruin to-day, it is difficult to believe that the Mission once owned 200,000 acres of land, over 40,000 head of cattle, and raised yearly 20,000 bushels of grain, not to mention the making of 200 barrels of wine.</P>
031.sgm:<P>San Luis Rey was a principality in every sense, and the traveller along the King's Highway years ago received a gracious hospitality from the padres, who blazed the trail of civilisation from Mexico to San Francisco, and beyond, establishing a chain of Missions that are monuments to their energy and purity of purpose.  The splendid pile was one hundred and fifty feet long, fifty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The Mission has been repaired by the Franciscans who now occupy it and tender visitors a courteous reception.  They relate fascinating stories of the days of Zalvidea, of the Indians saved; and one is glad that the old Mission is rehabilitated and not allowed to go to decay.</P>
031.sgm:<P>San Luis Rey is about eighty miles from Los Angeles and four miles to Oceanside, from which the coach turns away to the south along <HI REND="italics">El Camino Real</HI>
031.sgm:, or as near it as possible; a trail along which Serra and hundreds of the padres of old and the soldiers of Spain walked. The run to San Diego Mission is about forty-seven miles along-shore, passing towns and hamlets, through great ranches, and over a charming country, in its coat of green.  Off to the east are the San Ysidro Mountains and lofty Cuyamacha and Santa Margarita.  There are countless little lagunas along-shore, often filled with ducks.  The roar of the wings of quail fills the air, and the delights of life in the open are emphasised in the <illus entity="a031-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Mission of San Luis Rey de Fancia on the Old King's Highway</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:very joy of living in this land of soft winds and perfumed air.  Then there is the charm of the roads themselves, running up over mounds of green, winding down into little ca&ntilde;ons that tell of the sea; not always smooth or like a real King's Highway, but full of promise and possibility, and consistent in the realisation.  Now we are led by a long-necked pais&aacute;no that paces like ecstatic; now blocked by a flock of quail that cry" Hands up ! "-- <HI REND="italics">wook-wook-wo</HI>
031.sgm:<P>We exchange opinions with the passers-by and the owners of the ranches who come out as we pull up at the slightest excuse.  Then there is the fund of wisdom drawn from the country store, and its <HI REND="italics">habitu&eacute;s</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Slowly we move down the coast; now crossing some little river-bed near the sea, again high on the mesa; stopping at Carlsbad--a strange name for a California King's Highway; at Encenitas and Del Mar, which are better, enjoying the fine beaches, the quail and duck shooting; and one fine day we reach the end or the beginning of <HI REND="italics">El Camino Real</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Here is the first of the Missions of Upper California, founded by Padre Junipero Serra in 1769, and while once rich and prosperous it is a complete and sad ruin to-day; adobe walls and old palms alone tell the story <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Crossing the bay we roll up the fine road to Coronado. San Diego is a delightful country for coaching; there are good roads everywhere and climate of the perfect variety.  We go to Tia Juana and cross the line; then to La Jolla and the home of theosophy; spend delightful hours in the famous <HI REND="italics">patio</HI>
031.sgm: and garden of Coronado--which may be considered the beginning of <HI REND="italics">El Camino Real</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The return to Los Angeles, 127 miles north, is over the King's Highway as near as we can make it, and about forty miles from San Diego we dip down into the opening of a river or ca&ntilde;on in Orange County and follow it up to the old Mission of San Juan Capistrano, which stands on high land with the Santiago range behind it and lofty cliffs or mesas between it and the sea. We follow the ca&ntilde;on slowly, passing through ranches of walnut and groves of trees, coming out at San Juan with its ranch houses, its quaint inns, and the fine old Mission, half ruin, where one might wish to tarry indefinitely. The Mission was founded in 1776 by Junipero Serra. Of all the ancient piles this appeals most to the poetic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The coachers might have kept on the road to El Toro, Aliso, and so to Santa Ana over a good and fair country and through a region abounding in great ranches and olive groves, but they left the King's Highway again for a detour along an attractive beach, passing Arch Rock, reaching Laguna, on a little bay, at the mouth of a big ca&ntilde;on that comes plunging down to the sea from the upland mesa.  Here there is a little hamlet and hotel, and the coachers have converse with a motor party who have come down from Santa Ana in one hour.  The climb up Laguna Ca&ntilde;on to the upland mesa and the valley is one of the features of the trip, and then <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Laguna has a charming rocky shore, to some extent unusual on the mainland in Southern California.  Here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>One afternoon the coachers entered Los Angeles from the south.  Perhaps they had lost the King's Highway; perhaps they were in the very footsteps of the old padre who walked up and down the coast, blazing this trail in the hot sands or yielding adobe.  Who knows?  Then, or in 1820, when the old Plaza chapel was half built, the town boasted of but 650 souls; but this city up whose fine streets we pass has over 200,000 inhabitants in 1906.  One can make Los Angeles in a day from San Juan, but the coach tarries at Santa Ana, Orange, Tustin, and El Toro, and their famous walnut groves and ranches of all kinds are visited.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I have hoped in this brief recital, an enumeration of some of the Missions along the old Highway, to suggest the charm of coaching and automobiling in Southern California, and the review of the Missions has been made merely to provide a motif or objective.  A small party can make such a trip in a carriage or automobile, or even on horseback.  Inns and hotels are scattered all along the old Highway, and the journey can be made with ease and comfort and the true charm of the country in the open enjoyed.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The old Missions of California are among the most attractive features of this country to the average person. They are typical California ruins and, like wine, will increase in value as time rolls on.  Many of the old <illus entity="a031-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Ruins of the Mission of San Antonio de P&agrave;la</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Missions a few years ago were rapidly going to decay, but the Landmarks Club of Los Angeles has accomplished good work in preventing their destruction.  The decay of San Fernando, Pala, San Juan Capistrano, and San Luis Rey has been arrested, and travellers through the fair country will now doubtless have the old Missions for all time, as their historical value is thoroughly appreciated by the present dwellers in the land of the setting sun.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I have made a coaching trip of another kind, in which hotels were not considered.  The six-in-hand old-fashioned California coach was followed or preceded by a team loaded with the camping outfit. Captain William Banning was the whip and host; the best driver of a six-in-hand in California.  The route was laid out in advance and six or seven tents were pitched every night, a cook and provisions being taken.  This proved a delightful experience.  Attractive locations for camping were selected' along the route, the coach making the run from Los Angeles to San Francisco in about thirty days, no effort being made to make time.  The following year this coach was shipped to San Francisco and the drive made about five hundred miles north; and on another season through the Yosemite.  California can be seen from a car window, but to get in complete touch with the country it should be seen at close range, either in a coach, the saddle, automobile, or carriage.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>I have made a coaching trip of another kind, in which hotels were not considered.  The six-in-hand old-fashioned California coach was followed or preceded by a team loaded with the camping outfit. Captain William Banning was the whip and host; the best driver of a six-in-hand in California.  The route was laid out in advance and six or seven tents were pitched every night, a cook and provisions being taken.  This proved a delightful experience.  Attractive locations for camping were selected along the route, the coach making the run from Los Angeles to San Francisco in about thirty days, no effort being made to make time.  The following year this coach was shipped to San Francisco and the drive made about five hundred miles north; and on another season through the Yosemite.  California can be seen from a car window, but to get in complete touch with the country it should be seen at close range, either in a coach, the saddle, automobile, or carriage.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XIV</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Life in the Sierra Madre</P>
031.sgm:<P>THE charm of continuous mountain life has given nearly every ca&ntilde;on in the lofty range one or more residents. When I first knew the Arroyo Seco Ca&ntilde;on, in 1885, it had a dweller for nearly every two miles of its winding course. At the entrance, where he could look out into the broad wash, a bee-keeper lived; and over on a little mesa a miner, who sometimes showed me colour.  On another mesa lived the Brown brothers, sons of John Brown of Harper's Ferry, and often as I sat in their cabin at night I heard stories of the Underground Railroad; and Owen Brown, pacing the floor, told of his escape along the mountains, lying in the brush for days, living on corn and travelling by night. The two brothers, Owen and Jason, were typical mountaineers, and for mere love of it would go up into the mountains, five thousand feet above the sea--for what? "To look out upon the earth and to think." Owen Brown told me that his father had this habit, and it was strong in him; a passion to climb above the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Half-way up the ca&ntilde;on lived one Judge Brunk, who held court where the trees formed a green arcade over the trout stream; and ten or twelve miles beyond you would come to Commodore Switzer's, who kept a little inn or camp where one could idle away the days in the very heart of the mountains.</P>
031.sgm:<P>This ca&ntilde;on was typical of nearly all in the range; mountain lovers being scattered up and down, fully satisfied with the isolation.  I remember asking one if he never wearied of the life there, and his reply was "No."  He referred to the trout stream that ran by his door, and the voices of the leaves that rustled music all the day.  He understood it and loved the life, and so there are hundreds who like it all the time, and thousands who like it at times.  I once lived six or eight months in the Sierra Madre, the location being a little plateau which sloped down, forming a cape between three deep and beautifully wooded ca&ntilde;ons; there was no approach except by descending one of the ca&ntilde;ons and crossing the stream; the locality being particularly isolated during storms.  The place had many charms.  The upper portion was at this time covered with chaparral, Adenostoma always green and in many tints, banks of sage, groups of wild lilac and ironwoods, while on either side the deep, abysmal ca&ntilde;on was filled with these and many more, alders, live oaks, sycamores, cotton-woods, <illus entity="a031-0053" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Mission of San Buenaventura on El Camino Real</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Directly behind me rose the wall of the Sierra Madre, five thousand or six thousand feet in height, the first range of the mountains that for forty miles reached away to the desert.  I could climb on to its face in a few moments and lose myself in its dense investment of chaparral, or I had the choice of three gateways immediately at hand--Millard's to the south, Negro immediately behind, and the Arroyo Seco to the west.  In rainy seasons these ca&ntilde;ons bore raging streams of water.  Millard's was famous for its waterfall, and up the arroyo for twenty miles or more there were long stretches of rocky walls and mountain ranges merging into dark and distant ca&ntilde;ons that seemed to wind away like living things, to be lost in other ranges far beyond. These mountain passes and the contiguous country be- came my range; I learned to know them well, and the fascination of the life, its absolute quiet, its tranquillity and peace, the beauty of the scenery, took a strong hold upon my imagination, and I could understand how some men could turn their backs upon the roar of great cities and live in the mountains.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>There was something restful in the quiet of the deep ca&ntilde;ons; the music of the rippling stream as it eddied around the rocks, the rustle of the leaves, the high green walls and sinuous, deep blue sky river above, gleaming like a turquoise mosaic through the ca&ntilde;on branches, all appealed to the finer senses.  The air was sweet, pure, vibrant, and cool, but never damp or humid, and in the summer months rarely too warm for comfort. In the winter, after the rains, each ca&ntilde;on became a garden of ferns and brakes, and the great halls of the mountains rang and reverberated with the resonant melody of falling, rushing water.  Moving up the ca&ntilde;on into the higher areas of the range, its beauties increased, the trees became larger and more plentiful, and the sinuous trail wound and curved through pleasant arcades of green and graceful leaves which moved gently, softly in the wind.</P>
031.sgm:<P>At every step some new and charming vista appeared, now down into some little <HI REND="italics">potr&eacute;ro</HI>
031.sgm:<P>There is something in the smiling face of mountains <illus entity="a031-0054" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Elephant Heads and Caves of La Jolla, near San Diego</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>In following the trail or the stream bed up some lateral ca&ntilde;on, there is a constant change.  Shadows and lights flit, come and go; now the trail is through some dark green abyss, then broadens out into glorious sunshine, or again where deep shadows ripple down through the interstices of the leaves and dance and play across the trail.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Crossing the stream perhaps a hundred times, we reach the upper range and camp in the very heart of the forest.  The arroyo flows by the camp, and up from the green abyss half a mile distant comes the vibrant roar of the fall, the joyous melody of the waters that are plunging on to the distant sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I have often walked down these ca&ntilde;ons at night, when the tone of the wind is different; all day long it has been from the sea, now it blows from the mountains themselves, and from far away comes the murmur of the forest borne softly on, like the voice of the ocean. Now it is among the pine needles, rising and falling, a harp of a thousand strings, the soul of melody in its cadence.  The ca&ntilde;on is deep in purple shades, and where the trail opens out the upper line is marked by stars, scintillating in intense brilliancy.  The lateral ca&ntilde;ons are of inky blackness, and the rush and melody of the water comes from mysterious and distant points.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>I have stood on the high peaks at night and watched the fog come stealing in from the sea, until it spread out an opaline vestment, filling all the valleys with seas of silver, through which the tops of hills and lesser mountains protruded like islands; a sea of marvellous lights and shades.  In early morning it is vermilion or violet or silver, a splendid spectacle, as though the very air had frozen and filled the lowlands with a rolling, billowy sea of ice that stretched away to the horizon and wound its way around the limitless world. At other times the full moon rises clear and beautiful, flooding the valleys with silvery light, while the darkness of the ca&ntilde;ons is so intensified that they can be traced for miles.  The valley becomes a world of shadows, and weird shapes form and re-form, advance and retreat, as the moon rises and floods the land with light.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The mountains are not always peaceful.  At times they are rent by fierce northers, when pandemonium seems to have broken loose, and the scene is made more terrible by the fact that it is blowing in a cloudless sky. Such a night was clear and brilliant; the stars, due perhaps to the electrical condition of the atmosphere, took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The rain-storms in the mountains fill the streams with melody and the forest thrills with ten thousand vibrant notes.  The roar and cadence of the greater falls, the ripple over rocky beds, the wild sweep and surge of rain or sheets of water against granite cliffs, and the wail of the wind as it rises and gives rein to its fancy, sweeping over the ridges, rushing down into the ca&ntilde;ons, through the chaparral, on in sheets and rivers, bending great trees and snapping off the dead wood, are all features in the splendid setting of the forest stage.</P>
031.sgm:<P>By such a storm I was isolated in the mountains for several days; the ordinarily peaceful streams became violent rivers; Millard Ca&ntilde;on, the Arroyo Seco, and Negro Ca&ntilde;on were impassable, and at its height I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>On the fourth day provisions gave out and a volunteer was sent down, but the stream caught his horse and swept it away.  The following day the clouds melted, the sun broke through and filled the valley, caressing the mountains with its rays, and a week later the face of the land had changed to lighter and warmer tints.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Once in a fierce storm in the mountains I faced from a divide a fall on the distant slope.  At ordinary times it was a slender line of silver, a cord of the mountain lute, but now every ca&ntilde;on, every lateral branch, was running full and the fall was a splendid thing--strong and resonant.  As I crouched in the saddle in the <illus entity="a031-0055" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Palms at Santa Anita Ranch, Arcadia, San Gabriel Valley</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The southern mountains have not the vast and extended forests that symbolise the Yosemite region, but they have a wealth of trees in the mountain laurel, buckthorn, lilac, the wild cherry, madr&oacute;na, manzanita, pines of several kinds, false hemlock, white cedar, juniper, oaks, and many more.</P>
031.sgm:<P>All the ca&ntilde;ons are filled with verdure; each is a park, with all the glories of ferns and wild lilies and a host of flowers that lure the stroller on and on into the maze of gulfs and rivers of green which make up the forests of the Sierra Madre.</P>
031.sgm:<P>He who views the mountains from the valley fails to appreciate their size; the wall of bare rock is perhaps disappointing, but here is a range whose exact prototype does not exist in any land -- austere, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Here is range after range as high as Mount Washington.  The Adirondacks, Alleghanies, and all the peaks of New England could be thrown into the maze of ca&ntilde;ons of this range, and the addition not be suspected.  No mountains in America rise so abruptly from their base, none present such an array of deep ca&ntilde;ons and precipitous slopes, such long and narrow divides, such stupendous reaches from summit to valley.  I am familiar with many mountain ranges, but do not recall any such wall, or sudden rise, as that which confronts the pilgrim from the East as he crosses the Colorado or the Mojave desert and ascends to the California divide.  He stops near Salton, where at the deepest point the valley is two hundred and eighty feet below the level of the sea, and climbs to the divide nearly a mile above it amid stupendous peaks which tower from ten to eleven thousand feet in air, the heart of the Sierra Madre.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In strolling through the ca&ntilde;ons or on the upland mesas you obtain a glimpse of the life.  There are countless birds; you may see the California condor, as I have in the oak forests of the San Gabriel.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:ordinary buzzard soars over the ca&ntilde;ons, and the road-runner, or pais&aacute;no, garbed in splendid colours, runs along the trail.  In the open, the ground-squirrel lives in burrows, uttering a peculiar cry, " <HI REND="italics">spink, spink</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Southern California is remarkable for its freedom from disagreeable animals.  In my travels I have never encountered an adult rattlesnake, though they are here, and rarely have I seen snakes of any kind, except the gopher snake.  Tarantulas and scorpions are indigenous to the soil, but are rarely seen.  The horned toad is the common lizard, harmless, and an interesting pet. The variety of birds is endless, and the chorus of song about the homes at sunrise in early spring is one of the charming features of a remarkable country.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XV</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Wild Goat on Orizaba</P>
031.sgm:<P>WHEN Cabrillo came up the California coast in 1542, he sighted a large island with two prominent peaks, and from almost any where in the mountains of Southern California they can be seen rising from the sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Cabrillo named the island, after one of his ships, La Vittoria, but the name given it by Viscaino, in 1645, Santa Catalina, from the saint's day of his arrival, has held down through the years.  One of the peaks is called Orizaba, and the other Black Jack. They are not high; though from a distance they might be considered in the five-thousand-foot class, twenty-two hundred would be nearer the truth; yet Orizaba and Black Jack have summits and slopes that in steepness might belong to the top of some wind-swept peak ten thousand feet in aIr.  I say this, as I have been to the peaks of both mountains on horseback, and, with some knowledge of trails in California, never found myself in quite so disagreeable a position as one afternoon when trying to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The mountains rise very nearly in the centre of the island, and from any point present the appearance of great volcanoes, surrounded by lava-like rocks, yet all about rise hills covered with chaparral, and verdant rivers wind away here, there, and everywhere. My starting-point had been a camp at Middle Ranch, that lies under some cottonwoods at the base of the Cabrillo Mountains, where they form the north slope of the ca&ntilde;on.  It was the dead of winter, and the island was carpeted with alfileria, wild grasses, and clover.  The ca&ntilde;on stream ran merrily on, coming from some mysterIous place and gaining in volume, rushing in beneath arcades of cottonwoods, willows, and alders, whose tops were often draped with masses of wild clematis, and so reaching the sea, at a little beach on the south coast two or three miles down the ca&ntilde;on, up which the strong west wind came, bearing the sound of breaking waves, and the soothing melody of the sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The wild goat was said to be in force at or near the head of Cottonwood Ca&ntilde;on; so, with rifle-scabbards fastened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>We soon found the trail, a precipitous plunge down through the chaparral, frightening scores of valley quail, coming out into the ca&ntilde;on with its patches of cactus, then turned up the slope, finally reaching another trail which led up the rocky side of the mountain, a goat and sheep trail, over which the wiry horses slowly made their way, by adopting the zigzag method, literally beating up the slope in short tacks, I leading my animal, my comrade riding.  The trail was like one, described by some wag, that led into a tree, and for an hour we worked our way up the side of the almost impassable mountain, gradually rising above the hills and ca&ntilde;ons.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Finally, reaching the summit, we fastened the tired <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The island was an emerald in a setting of azure, its green intense--the green some of the French realists paint,--and on this background the ca&ntilde;ons were darker, melting one into the other.  Opposite were the Cabrillo Mountains and Middle Ranch Ca&ntilde;on, and to the west the hills went tumbling away to the sea, to meet it in lofty rocky cliffs, against which a light-blue haze seemed to play.  To the east rose the snow.capped mountains of the Sierra Madre, San Antonio, San Jacinto, and San Bernardino, ten and twelve thousand feet high; their white summits standing out against the blue sky in strong relief, across thirty miles of the blue Pacific and as many more of green hills and vales.  All Southern <illus entity="a031-0057" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Wild Goat Shooting from a Boat, Santa Catalina</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>California was before us and the islands of the sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Perhaps you have led a horse down the rocky slope of a mountain where the trail is a matter of fiction, a trail by courtesy, where the horse slides and you are continually stepping aside to allow him to pass, then rounding him up by the riata which you have fastened about his neck to anchor him by.  If so you know its difficulties and delights.  Half-way down we came to the end of navigation on a bed of broken rock, and it was by a special dispensation that we got out and down, the dispensation being clever horses.</P>
031.sgm:<P>We followed up the ca&ntilde;on to its head, climbed Black Jack, and on the way up got the shot that gave us the big head as a trophy, shooting the goat across the gulch by mere good fortune.  It was two o'clock that afternoon when we secured the game and started home down the ca&ntilde;on, after a series of seemingly endless climbs, taking six hours to secure one pair of horns.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Hunting the wild goat is not always so difficult.  I have run upon them in the lowlands, and there are places well known to Mexican Joe and Joe Adargo, the guides, where they can be had with less difficulty.  But I believe the sportsman will not care for the easy places, as the climb over these mountains, the wildness of the scenery from the summits, the beauty of the canons and their verdure, will well repay the effort.  A fine hunting-ground is that on the south-west side of the island, where it rises and faces the sea in cliffs often so precipitous that even the wild goat cannot crawl down.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The following day we took the trail up Cottonwood Ca&ntilde;on, visiting an ancient stone cave dwelling on the divide, a great spur of Orizaba, where the ancient Santa Catalinans lived centuries ago.  At the entrance a huge clump of cactus grew over piles of gleaming abalone shells, which the natives had carried up the long hill from the sea several miles distant.  On the way up the con we found traces of ancient occupation,--bowls or mortars partly worked out in the solid steatite, or stone implements; and at night rode into camp at Empire, where verd-antique is being quarried.  This ledge is an ancient <HI REND="italics">olla</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The next morning we started for Avalon by the north coast, following a narrow trail skirting Black Jack, now along cliffs so precipitous that a misstep would send the horse rolling down a thousand feet into the deep ca&ntilde;ons, always on the coast, until the head of the trail was reached, where we followed the windings of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>I have hunted the wild goat in boats, the boatman rowing along shore, the animals being found high up on the face of cliffs, and I have often seen them between Pebble Beach and Seal Rocks, where the island shores rise in splendid cliffs.  Thousands pass this front, this fortress of rocks, in the course of the year, but it is only when some man is stranded on the beach and cannot climb the cliff, and so reach the town of Avalon, a few miles away, that one realises how impossible it is. I have seen a goat come down the face of this precipice several hundred feet high and find itself unable to get back.  It is possible to climb it in places, but the human climber is then often confronted with a series of steep ca&ntilde;ons that are menacing and dangerous to a novice.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The wild goat of Santa Catalina is the common goat grown wild, which some one placed upon the island years ago.  It has multiplied so that several thousand are to be found, affording excellent sport; at least I have always had to earn my game in long climbs that well repaid the exertion, if not in game, in the experience and a certain charm of isolation.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The wild goat has developed certain peculiarities: the horns are often larger, and the bucks sometimes have a heavy development of hair over the chest not seen in the tame goat.  The kids are excellent eating, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>On one trip to Middle Ranch, the barbecue was held in the evening around a big camp-fire.  The Mexicans had stripped off long poles of willow, and impaling big joints of meat, held it over the coals, turning it around and around until done to a turn; then there were <HI REND="italics">chili con carne</HI>
031.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">chili colorado</HI>
031.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Middle Ranch Ca&ntilde;on, which almost cuts the island in two, is remarkable for its climate  In summer a cool breeze sweeps in from the sea, coming up the long winding river of verdure, making the conditions almost perfect; indeed the climate of Santa Catalina Island is worthy a treatise by itself, so peculiar is it, so perfect from the insular standpoint.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Hunting is what it is made.  One may coop a jack-rabbit in a large corral and watch greyhounds run it down, and imagine it sport; so, too, the hunter may at times corral the goat of Santa Catalina in some corner and slay it without trouble with the aid of a guide, who is also seeking minimum physical exertion; but the hunter who will go out into the open and climb the crags of the big mountains or peaks will, I venture to say, in the majority of instances, have hunting and climbing that would be considered all-sufficient if for "wild goat" had been substituted the term "bighorn,"--" What 's in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>In riding over the island after wild goats or quail, one occasionally sees foxes, while the whir of the valley quail fills the air at times.  For years there was a herd of mysterious burros that had run wild and defied capture.  This may seem incredible, but those familiar with the gentle burro of the mainland have little or no idea of the speed attained by the same animal when he returns to nature.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I once rode upon these animals on the west side of the island, and, mounted on a good horse, made the attempt to catch them.  There were three, one taller than the others.  They stood and looked at me for a moment, the next we were in a whirlwind race over a bad country strewn with rocks. I certainly gained on them, but I was surprised to see how long it took. In the end I ran the burros down, and could possibly have roped one, when they dashed headlong down a steep ca&ntilde;on and disappeared, relieving me of the embarrassment.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To see this interesting island with its rare flora, in some instances unique, its wealth of archeological lore, its wild and attractive scenery, one should become a goat hunter, take a man like Mexican Joe, the oldest guide and inhabitant, who knows the island thoroughly, a good saddle horse, and a single burro, and make the trip from one end to the other, sleeping in the open.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XVI</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Rise of Don Antonio</P>
031.sgm:<P>WITH few exceptions the coast of Pacific North and South America is protected by a fringe of peculiar seaweed known as kelp, a long, rich, olive-green marine laminarian vine which rises from the bottom to the surface, in thirty or forty feet or more of water, and droops or hangs in festoons, forming a beautiful floating garden with a life peculiarly its own.  On the rocky islands of the Pacific Coast from San Clemente to the Farallones this vine is particularly abundant, and on the lee shores it may be examined with ease from the glass-bottom boat.</P>
031.sgm:<P>At mid-day, at half tide, is the best time to visit these hanging gardens of the sea; then the bottom can be seen plainly, the water a vivid turquoise blue, gleaming brightly through the interstices of golden branches, which, when illumined by the sun, take on hues of old gold and amber.  The leaves are twenty or thirty feet in length, about twelve inches in width, richly fluted, and hang in a thousand positions of grace and beauty, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:so that in peering down from above one looks through innumerable halls, arcades, and <HI REND="italics">parterres</HI>
031.sgm:<P>In South America, especially about the Falkland Islands, the kelp (Macrocystis) attains enormous proportions, sections estimated at one thousand feet in length having been taken up and used as anchors for vessels, which thus were saved the trouble of lowering and hoisting anchor.  On this desolate coast the kelp forms a protecting fringe for fishes which otherwise would be unable to exist, owing to the constant and heavy surf that is always piling in, and thus incidentally the miserable Fuegians are saved from starving, subsisting almost entirely upon the fish, the batten, half-frozen land producing little or nothing.  Everywhere along-shore this forest of hanging vines constitutes shelter for many animals.  It is a forest of seaweed rising from great depth, rolling over and over in strange but graceful convolutions in the surf or tidal currents, a menace to swimmers and often to vessels.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Along the California coast at extreme low tide the kelp lies in such thick masses that it forms an almost impassable barrier; so much so that once in making a port we found it almost impossible to force a sixty-ton power yacht through it.  The entrance of the harbour was made ultimately by stationing a man on the bowsprit to pass the word how the helmsman should steer to avoid the enormous leaves that, in tangled masses, blocked the way.  These huge vines do not indicate a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>These hanging gardens of the sea afford a home for a multitude of strange animals, which have a singular protection--that of mimicking the tone or colour of the leaf.  These animals include crabs, shell-less mollusks and fishes.  One of the crabs, which is nearly two inches across, is so perfect an imitation of the kelp that when lying directly before the eye, it is difficult to see, unless it moves.  It has peculiar points and spikes which further intensify the resemblance.  Lying on the great leaves are numbers of slug-like creatures, "shells" without shells, tinted a rich green, safe in this protection from nearly all intruders.</P>
031.sgm:<P>But the most remarkable resemblance is seen in a fish called the kelp-fish.  It is about a foot in length, of the exact colour of the kelp, with a long continuous dorsal fin frilled exactly like the edge of the leaf.  Did this fish dart about or comport itself as other fishes, it would be observed at once, but it does nothing of the kind; it lies at the bottom or near it, standing literally upon its head, with its tail extending upward, with the shorter kelp leaves, and in this position, hanging in the gardens, waves to and fro with every surge that sways the ocean forest.  I have looked for these fishes for a long time, watching every leaf, and finally found that the elusive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>In calm weather the kelp leaves lie dormant like sea serpents upon the surface, unfolding and folding listlessly; but when the wind rises and the sea comes in, it appears to be filled with waving monsters that, gripped in fierce embrace, are rolling over and over.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The waves are coloured a deep golden-brown hue by them; they fairly fill the water, and coil and re-coil in a manner particularly dangerous to an unfortunate swimmer thrown among them at such a time.  Often in fierce gales the entire kelpian growth of a locality will be wrenched out and cast ashore to form a pile or windrow for miles along the beach; but in a marvellously short time the kelp again appears in luxuriant growth.</P>
031.sgm:<P>These gardens of the sea have proved so interesting that a so-called glass-bottom boat has been invented at Avalon, Santa Catalina, where a fleet is in daily operation.  Almost every visitor to the island goes out to drift over the floating gardens of the sea and gaze down through the big glass window at the strange animals of the kelp.  Among the fishes is a giant bass six or seven feet in length, which occasionally swims across the window--which recalls to some anglers along the <illus entity="a031-0059" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Catch of a Black Sea-Bass with Rod and Reel by Ernest Foolon. George Johnson, gaffer, Santa Catalina</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>He was a very superior person, this "Don" Antonio Oromo, and interest in him was accentuated by certain legendary wraiths, possibly of the imagination, that drifted in and out, and were common talk about the gaily decorated boat-stands of Santa Catalina.  Don Antonio certainly never claimed to be a descendant of Montezuma, or that his ancestor was a great captain of Viscaino's fleet, which visited the island in 1602; in fact, nothing could be traced to him except a statement that his grandfather once owned the island and traded the property, now worth millions, for a white horse; why white no one knew.  I had fished with him, as the guest of a friend, on divers occasions, and the only words he uttered were, "Si, se&ntilde;or," in a mellifluous voice, in response to the stern demand for more "chum," when possibly he had fallen asleep.   Yet despite this, Don Antonio had "an ancestral reputation," which a certain manner, suggestive of romance, lent colour to,  No one had ever heard of him as a boatman or fisherman until my friend discovered him; indeed, a Mexican rival in the gaffing line, of no particular ancestry, laughed loud and long when he learned that "Tony" was going to row during the tuna season.</P>
031.sgm:<P>"What, him!" said Nicola.  "He never see a gaff in he life.  He fish?  Why, he don' know a tuna from a skip-jack.  He mak' me tired, he do, there 's a fac'.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Don Antonio must have heard these and other criticisms, but he said nothing, and whether deep in his Aztec heart he was determining to give back these taunts, blow for blow, no one could tell; but the fact remains that he was another example of what opportunity will do for latent genius.  He was born to fame, and at the end of the season, not long after the midsummer solstice, still silent and imperturbable, he stood a prominent figure in one of the greatest feats in the world of angling, overshadowing and silencing all his critics among the boatmen, gaffers, and chummers of the island.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It came about as follows: The tuna season at the island closes for some mysterious reason on or about August first, though specimens have been reluctantly caught in the middle of that month, and their high and lofty tumbling may be often witnessed far into the fall. The ending of this season of muscular conclusions with the greatest of game fishes finds a small army of expert anglers, who delight in the excitement of this big game, with summer but partly gone and the tuna retired from the field, its season being May, June, and July.  It is now that the resources of nature, so far as they relate to big game at the Southern California islands, become apparent, and instead of putting away the split bamboo and green-heart rods and big tuna reels, the angler, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Sustain the spacious heavens</P>
031.sgm:<P>of the sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>A few choice spirits, doughty knights of the rod--and I will not gainsay their skill and prowess,--bear the standard of this fish on their escutcheons and claim that it is the hardest-fighting game of these waters, the superior of the tuna or any of the great <HI REND="italics">conquistadores</HI>
031.sgm: of the angling arena.  In the Tuna Club they have their black sea-bass cups, on which their winning names and the ponderous weights of their catches are engraved; their linked gold badges, worn proudly at annual banquets; and, like all minorities, they claim the world as theirs.  As each season larger fishes in both classes--tuna and black sea-bass-are caught, the tension becomes more acute.  The boatmen side with their employers, and so, by virtue of his patron, Don Antonio became an advocate of his big bass, and in his way fought its battles with the tuna gaffers, and bore their gibes and scorn with easy philosophy.  "Los paises del sol dilatan et alma," he once retorted to his disputant, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>If one were to take a small-mouthed black bass, build it up until it was six feet long, and stuff it until it weighed anywhere from two hundred to five hundred pounds, some conception of the appearance of the black sea-bass ( <HI REND="italics">Stereolepis gigas</HI>
031.sgm: ) of Santa Catalina might be formed.  It is nearly a perfect bass in form and feature. Its eyes are blue; its upper surface tinted old mahogany, and its under surface gray--a mighty creature of solemn mien.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Deep in a cavern dwells the drowsy god,<LB>Whose gloomy mansion nor the rising sun<LB>Nor setting visits, nor the lightsome moon;<LB>But lazy vapours round the region fly,<LB>Perpetual twilight, and a doubtful sky.<LB></HI>
031.sgm:<P>Ovid might well have had the great bass in mind when descanting upon the home of the god of sleep, as while the tuna frequents the high sea, now blazing its way into the sunlight, the black sea-bass lives in the canopied forests of kelp, whose long leaves form caves and retreats of fantastic shape, ever changing with the current that sweeps along the rocky coast in whimsical and erratic measure.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It has been my fortune to take many of these fishes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Tempestuous Corus rears his dreadful head,</P>
031.sgm:<P>then turned to the north-west and, over the long ground. swells, moved up the island to the restless kelp beds, the home of the bass.  The shore here is precipitous and wild, beaten by the winds of centuries, and coloured with all the tints that mark the sunsets of this isle of summer.  There is no shore line in rough weather; the pitiless sea piles in, buffeting the very base of the mountains, and is tossed high in the air in white flocculent masses amid the booming and crash of contact with seen and unseen rocks.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Directly back of Avalon, a half-mile offshore, in sixty or seventy feet of water, lies a vast submarine forest of kelp, for which the bass invariably make when hooked inshore.  Within one hundred feet of the beach is another kelp bed, whose leaves lie along the surface <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>So engrossed were we in this sport, taking the big red- and black-banded fellows as fast as they could be fairly and honestly played, that the object of our trip was all but forgotten.  But suddenly the sheepshead ceased biting, there was an ominous pause; it was either sharks or bass, but which?  I reeled in my line and took the bass line in hand.  The current running to the south played upon the line with a gentle musical rhythm.  Now a marvellous jellyfish fouled it, and was rent asunder, or a mysterious olive-green kelp frond swept along like a living thing, its dim shape faintly outlined against the blue.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The ocean was as smooth as glass, the wind gods were resting, and the only break on the clear surface were the fins of yellowtail, that glistened in the sunlight as they patrolled the kelp, or the fairy sails of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>I had the coil amidships, and it fairly leaped into the air as the fish made its rush, twenty, fifty, one hundred feet.  I seized it and braced back.  Nearly elbow deep went my arms in the water; down went the boat, my companion sliding into the bow to offset it; down until the water was dancing at the rail; down until the man in the bow seemed to be lIp in the air; down so deep that my face was so near the surface that I could hear the mysterious crackling sound against the keel.  I was about to give way to this doughty plunger when he turned.  I sprang to my feet and took in the line. In a great circle he surged around the boat, and I gained by desperate hauling, not moving the fish, but pulling the light boat to him, in this way making thirty or forty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The bass was now headed for the offshore kelp bed, half a mile away, towing the boat so rapidly that the foam rose under the stern in an ominous wave.  The secret in this fishing is to fight the game continually, for, does the man at the line rest, the bass recovers in an equal ratio and the contest may be kept up until the bass reaches some retreat offshore and plunges into the kelp, breaking the line.  To prevent this I played it constantly, hauling when I could, and slacking only to prevent foundering; now flat on the bottom, bracing to withstand a desperate rush; now taking in the line, receiving savage blows, never stopping, until, fifteen minutes from the time of the strike, I saw a gigantic black and gray form coming slowly out of the blue. When the fish saw me it plunged down in a vicious rush, but I turned it up again, and by strenuous effort brought it near the stern.  The boat was so small and light that my companion lay in the bottom to preserve the equilibrium, and I attempted to gaff the monster by holding the line in my left hand, gaffing it amid a terrific flurry.  Once the iron in, it was jerked from my hand repeatedly, and I nearly followed it overboard. For half an-hour I manoeuvred, and every time the fish was brought within five feet it either plunged down or rushed around in a manner that boded ill for our safety; <illus entity="a031-0060" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">La Purissima Concepcion Mission on the King's Highway</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>It was impossible to get the fish aboard, and to tow it around Church Rock, where there was a heavy sea, seemed inviting disaster; but we attempted it, and after running the gauntlet of the Sphinx, in an hour's pull, had the fish in smooth water.  Five miles we towed it, finally meeting some fishermen, whom we hired to aid us in hauling the fish aboard.  It almost filled the boat, and I sat on my game while my companion rowed. But we were so low in the water that the least sea would have foundered us, so we engaged the men to convoy us in, and finally entered Avalon Bay masters of the situation.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Similar experiences characterised other catches, and induced the belief that the big bass could be caught with a rod.  It remained for General Charles Viele to demonstrate that this could be accomplished.  I accompanied him to the same locality one morning, anchoring undoubtedly over a school of fish, as they bit fast and furious.  The launch was anchored inshore, and the General opened the campaign by casting from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>This was in 1894.  Then came the catch of Mr. S. M. Beard, of New York, who took several large fish with rod and reel, and finally that of Mr. F. V. Rider, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:formerly of New York, now of Pasadena, who in 1898 startled the angling world by landing in fifty-five minutes with rod and reel a bass weighing 327 pounds--a feat accomplished only by a determined and continuous fight.  During this time the fish towed the angler several miles, making a series of furious rushes before it was brought in, giving its captor the record of the largest fish ever taken with rod and reel.  During the Tuna Club tournament every effort was made to break the record.  Col. R. A. Eddy, of San Francisco, an enthusiastic member of the Tuna Club, took five black sea-bass weighing respectively 240, 246, 322, 227, and 196 pounds.  Mr. F. V. Rider landed three fish weighing 175, 182, and 151 pounds; Dr. Bently three of 150, 184, and 165 pounds, and Mr. George B. Jess one of 145 pounds.  These catches are quoted here as being very remarkable when it is remembered that each was made with a twenty-one-thread linen line, little larger than many anglers use for a five-pound small-mouth black bass.<ANCHOR ID="n16-1">*</ANCHOR>
031.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1">Since this was written, many much larger bass have been taken, and the record is held by Mr. L. G. Murphy, with a bass weighing 436 lbs.</NOTE>
031.sgm:<P>During these days Don Antonio was rowing.  I frequently saw him in the afternoon, when the purple shadows were creeping out from the lofty cliffs along shore, near the tuna grounds; or he would be seen riding a heavy swell in the lee of the Sphinx, looking as imperturbable, as he chummed for his patron, as the great face bathed in the spray of the restless sea.  On <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The approved and only possible method of procedure was to raise the rod gradually with both hands, then lower it quickly, reeling as it dropped, but I believe I never swayed this monster far from the even tenor of its way.  Exhausted, I handed the rod to a companion; he too failed, and the great fish, now but a memory, dashed into the kelp, and passed out of history, leaving a dangling line alone to tell the story.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It was near the end of the season that Don Antonio crushed his rivals among the boatmen of Avalon. The long days of summer were growing shorter, the cool winds that had made the island an ideal spot for angling were dying down, and day after day the sea lay like a mirror, its surface cut by shoals of innumerable fish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>One morning when great bands of vermilion shot upward from the horizon, cutting deep into the sky, Don Antonio rowed his patron out from the vale of Avalon.  The channel was calm, and the rhythm of the tide gave a gentle undulation to the kelp leaves that lay glistening in the rising sun.  The tide was low, and all along shore the black beard of kelp brought out the rocks in strong relief.  On the points eagles stood preening their feathers for the day; a school of sea-lions was making for the rookery after a circuit of the north shore, and as the boat rounded the point and entered the light green water a fair and smooth sea stretched away.  Don Antonio dropped the anchor near the beach, half a mile above the rookery, in sight of the sea-lions that lay basking on the black rocks, arranged his rope to cast off at a moment's notice, placed his oars in position, baited his hook with three or four pounds of albacore, and while the angler made the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The equipment of this black-sea-bass angler may be of interest.  His rod and reel were designed especially for leaping tuna and black sea-bass; the silent reel was equipped with heavy, patent, anti-overrunning brake and leather thumb-brake, and held perhaps six hundred feet of twenty-one-thread linen line.  The rod was a split bamboo, seven feet in length, with long butt and single joint mounted with agate guides.  A six- or seven-foot bronze wire leader was attached to the line, the hook being the Van Vleck pattern--a singular-shaped silvered hook in high favour among tarpon experts.</P>
031.sgm:<P>A light wind sprang up and swung the boat to the east, gently rippling the water. As the moments slipped away the angler leaned back in his chair, with rod across his knees, the line overhauled and between his fingers, as the big reel had no click, and glanced over the San Clemente Channel at the long, low island that loomed up in the blue haze.  It was not a day of waiting. Presently there came an ill-defined tightening of the line; it might have been a drifting kelp leaf, possibly the shifting current; then it slackened, and  the angler took his rod in hand, his right clasping the butt, the left caressing the cork grip above the reel, as he we!l knew that the largest of game fishes in the bass tribe are the most delicate biters. There was no mistake here; Don Antonio dropped his cigarette, threw off the <illus entity="a031-0061" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Mission of San Miguel on El Camino Real </HI>
031.sgm: ( <HI REND="bold">King's Highway</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The line was slipping through the smooth agate guides, and Don Antonio, dropping into Catalina Spanish in his excitement, whispered hoarsely, " <HI REND="italics">Ahora, ahora</HI>
031.sgm:!"  But not yet; the bass might have the heavy bait merely between its lips, to be jerked out by a too hasty strike. Another foot, until ten or twelve had gone, then the rod rose in a strong, well-directed strike, and the game was on.  <HI REND="italics">Stse-stse-ceese-ceese</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The rod pounded the air with terrific jerks and the xepert handling it was almost lifted from his seat by the impetuosity of the rush.  Directly out to sea the fish went, headed for deep water, and as at this particular point there was no kelp, the combat was to be on its merits.  In a few seconds the boat was rushing stern first into the swell beyond the lee of the island, a big wave beneath the combing stern.  Ten, twenty, thirty minutes slipped away, and the boat was well offshore where the wind and sea were rising, and the angler meantime had accomplished little but hold the rod, vainly pumping with seven hundred feet of line out, the fish ever boring down.  After a desperate effort it was turned, when it rushed inshore, and at the end of an hour was again towing them seaward. Sometimes a few feet of line would be gained and as many lost, the fish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Don Antonio all this time held the oars in silence, backing water, offering all the resistance possible, and keeping the stern of the boat to the fish.  The sea was rising under the north-west wind, and to sit in the stern of the boat rushing against a heavy sea was to invite disaster.  Once a big comber came surging in, and rein had to be given the wild steed, that fortunately turned inshore again, overrunning its former course.  But it was presently a question of cutting away the fish or foundering, when the angler, in an inspiration, bethought him of a bottle of oil in the boat, and a moment later Don Antonio was pouring it over the side. The change was magical; the fluid mysteriously blazed a spot to the windward of the boat perfectly smooth, and presently the singular spectacle was witnessed of a low boat in the centre of a heavy sea, yet in a zone of perfect calm ten or twelve feet across. Here Don Antonio held the boat while the angler renewed the struggle, and, two hours from the strike, reeled the fish to the boat.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Up it came, slowly swimming around in decreasing circles, and as its full proportions dawned upon him, Don Antonio made a fervent appeal to the saints. The bass seemed as long as the boat--a giant--and as it turned, its huge tail deluged the men with oil and water. It was then that Don Antonio reached out and gaffed the heaviest fish ever taken with rod and reel, gaffed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:it well.  But what then?  It struggled like a wild bull, threatening to carry the anglers down, and it was only after a contest that the bass was securely lashed astern; even then it could not be towed, as they were three quarters of a mile offshore.  A passing boat, whose oarsman was a rival of the Don, was hailed and came down to them, and, with the <HI REND="italics">camaraderie</HI>
031.sgm:<P>As Don Antonio walked through the little town that night, he was followed by Mexican boys who said in hushed tones: "It is he; he gaffed it." His victory was complete, and on the record book one may read after the entry of his patron's catch, "Don Antonio Oromo, boatman; the largest game fish ever gaffed."</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XVI I</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Royal Catch</P>
031.sgm:<P>WHEN the early spring of California melts into summer, when the west winds freshen and sweep across the great current of Japan, the Kuroshiwo, the island of Santa Catalina, in Southern California, stands like an emerald in a setting of turquoIse. Its crest is a vivid green; the deep waters that bathe its rocks and leap and foam in the shadow of its mountains are a steely blue, and they environ a fishing ground of many and varied delights.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Winter has passed -- a winter of wild flowers, of soft winds; and summer has come.  You may know it by the gathering of the clans at Avalon, the little port and town of the island, where congregate in June anglers from all over the world, to await the coming of the leaping tuna, the great game fish peculiar to this place--or the big Japanese yellowfin albacore, Hirenaga--so far as its capture with the rod is concerned.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Los Angeles is the point of departure for the tuna grounds; and twenty miles distant, reached by several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:railroads, is San Pedro, from whence the <HI REND="italics">Cabrillo</HI>
031.sgm: or the <HI REND="italics">Hermosa</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Avalon is a miniature Naples, with the charm of colour in sky, water, and rocks that makes up the Italian resort.  There are good hotels, from one to three steamers a day in summer, and one in winter, wireless telegraph, and a variety of sports and pastimes, from fishing for a remarkable assortment of big game fishes to hunting and riding over the mountains and ca&ntilde;ons. But above all it is an angling community; the entire southern portion of the bay is lined with the fishing stands of the boatmen, each of whom has a certain number of feet of beach line, out from which extends a string of rowboats, tuna-boats, glass-bottom boats, and sailboats,--so many that the bay is filled with them. This bay is so clear and still, so glass-like, that the angler can hardly realise that he is not in some loch in Scotland, or on the St. Lawrence.</P>
031.sgm:<P>If one does not bring his tackle with him, the best can be purchased from any of the shops along the bay, and all the boatmen provide it.  Tackle is a subject of vital importance here.  The Tuna Club has established a sportsmanlike code as to tackle, and every year gives a tournament, offering valuable prizes to encourage the use of the rod.  As a result, the giant fishes of these waters--the tuna, black sea-bass, yellowtail, albacore, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:white sea-bass, ranging from fifty pounds to four hundred--are taken with light lines and rods, the deadly handline being almost unknown.  Good tackle, in fact the very best made by old and reliable makers, is essential, since a poor line or rod will often lose the day after a struggle of hours. The reel is known as a tuna reel, of rubber and German silver.  It is large enough to hold six hundred feet of wet line.  Such a reel costs from $15 to $75.  It has a patent anti-overrunning arrangement, a brake or click, and to the cross-bar is attached a rubber or leather pad that can be pressed upon the line. This is the brake par <HI REND="italics">excellence</HI>
031.sgm:.  The line is a 21 or 24 cuttyhunk.  There are a number of makes; the 21 is large enough, and it is in this connection that the remarkable feature of this angling is seen.  The number 21 is not much larger than the cord used for eyeglasses, yet a four-hundred-pound fish has been killed with it. The line costs from $3.50 to $4, and there must be no question about it; it must be true every inch of its length.  The hook is a matter of fancy.  I prefer the old-fashioned O'Shaughnessy, number 10/0, to my mind a perfect all-round hook, but the Van Vleck is one in good favour on the tarpon and tuna grounds.  The leader is of piano or phosphor-bronze wire in two or three links, each connected by a brass swivel-in all, six or seven feet long.  The line above this for ten feet should be doubled or quadrupled, for the gaffer to grasp, if necessary, after the gaffing, and for security against chafing when the tuna is boring down into the channel.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The tuna is the king of the mackerel tribe, the royal catch,  <HI REND="italics">Thunnus thynnus</HI>
031.sgm:<P>From May until November, sometimes December, a storm or squall of any kind is unknown.  So pass the days away waiting for the tuna, days of <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
031.sgm:.  One morning some one looks out over the bay to the east where, across the channel, the snow caps of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>"Tunas!" "Look!" "The tunas have come!" are the cries in "dago" Spanish, California Italian, Hispano-Mexican, and English.  Every angler rushes for his rod and boat, and in a short time several trim tuna launches are darting out across the bay, while less fortunate anglers are hurrying hither and yon hunting for boatmen, boatmen are hunting for patrons who perhaps are playing golf, baitmen are rushing for the seine, and the whole fishing community is thrown into great excitement.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Meanwhile the boatman is baiting the hooks with the large-twelve-inch California flying-fish, the natural food of the tuna, impaling it so that the bait will move through the water in a natural position and not twist. The school of tunas is moving north and the boatman steers the launch to cross them.  All being ready, the anglers wet their lines to prevent any burning off when the leather brakes are applied, slack out fifty or sixty feet, and sit with rods across the lap, one to port, the other to starboard, the tips at an angle of forty-five degrees, left hand upon the rod grip above the reel seat, and right thumb upon the leather pad which the skilled angler plays upon to kill the game.</P>
031.sgm:<P>On nearing the school, the fishes become more distinct and the splendid spectacle is afforded of large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Zee-zee-zeee-eee</HI>
031.sgm:! rises the music, the symphony of the reels; now a duet, both joining and giving out long-continued notes as the line is jerked away in feet and yards, in veritable handfuls.  In the meantime the school is closing about the boat and there is fear that the lines will be cut by the crazed fish.  Fisherman's luck! one breaks--perhaps too much pressure was put upon the brake, perhaps the sharp fin of a tuna cut it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The boatman has stopped the launch at the sound of the reel, and is now backing her slowly, so that the angler may not lose all of his line.  The slightest mistake, a fraction too much pressure on the thumb pad, a little overdue excitement, a mild attack of buck or tuna fever, any condition away from the normal, and the game is up, as the line can be snapped by any jerk, and is seemingly an absurd thing with which to fight so powerful a fish.</P>
031.sgm:<P>But this angler is an old tarpon fisherman.  He has seen the silver king vault into the empyrean, has seen it flashing, coruscating, caracoling in the sunlight, so that he seemed to be playing a fish in mid-air. He has his nerves well in hand, and slips the butt of his rod into the leather socket, and follows every move of the game by the agate tip.  Down it goes, fairly into the water, as though struck by repeated blows.  <HI REND="italics">Zee-zeee-zeee-e-e-e-e</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Every hundred feet of line is marked by a "telltale" band of red silk, and the angler has watched three and a green one, indicating fifty feet, slip through the silver trumpet guides, and still the fish is going; yet but a few seconds have passed.  Four hundred feet, and a little shower of leather filings has collected in the reel near the pad.  The launch is going at full speed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The fish is slowly rising; the school has passed on, and the singing of distant and other reels is heard.  Enthusiastic, but less fortunate, anglers pass by, and rise to give the sportsman cheer and wish him good luck; they are warned by the boatman, who considers social amenities totally out of order, to keep away from the line, as any man with a fish hooked is entitled to the field.  Up comes the tuna, imparting to the line a quivering motion until it reaches the surface, when it turns and comes along the surface like an arrow.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The angler springs to his feet, that he may see the splendid move, and reels for his life.  No power, no multiplier, could eat up the line to match this racing steed that comes on and on, a blaze of silver, gold, and blue, tossing the water within ten feet of the boat, where it turns in a miniature maelstrom and is away. But the angler meets it, stops it again: and so the battle goes on, and an hour slips away.</P>
031.sgm:<illus entity="a031-0063" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Landing the Leaping Tuna</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The fish repeatedly rushes in, trying to take the angler at a disadvantage; then plunging to the bottom, to rise like a bird to the surface, and circle the boat, then towing it a mile to sea, where it turns and literally goes crazy in a series of evolutions, at the end of which it has been brought within a few feet of the boat. Again and again this has been accomplished.  Again and again the angler has felt himself going under the tremendous pressure, but hope shines like a star somewhere in his heart; he has determined to land that fish at any cost, and never relinquishes his hold upon the rod or reel.  Almost an armistice is called. It seems well-nigh impossible to bring the fish nearer.  Seeing the boat, it breaks into a frenzy, bearing off with such violence that disaster hovers about, too near for comfort.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Lifting, reeling, pumping, holding fast, the fisherman always feels the continued strain which tells that the tuna has never lost a scintilla of its strength and vigour, is still fresh, while it long ago began to tell on the man, indeed on the nerves of one looking on. Suddenly, after three hours and a quarter, the fish turns and swims away to the south, dragging the boat, occasionally stopping to rush in; but at the end of four hours, within three hundred feet of where it was hooked, and after a last run of four miles, the tuna is brought to gaff.  Ten or twelve miles it has towed the boat up and down the coast, ten miles of fighting.<ANCHOR ID="n17-1">*</ANCHOR>
031.sgm: The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1">The author's record fish, the first large tuna taken, weighed 183 lbs.  It towed the boat, against the boatman's oars, ten or twelve miles in four hours.</NOTE>
031.sgm:<P>Again the angler rallies and a fresh gaff hits the mark; the angler slacks away, and all stand upon the rail as the gaffer slides the splendid fish into the boat, a monster in gold, silver, and azure, which later on tips the scales at one hundred and fifty pounds.  A few ponderous blows on the flooring, a strange, penetrating quiver, and the king is dead.  Up runs the flag of victory, bearing the blue tuna, shattered nerves and weary muscles are forgotten, and the boat runs in amid the cheers, whistles, and salutes of the lookers-on in boats who have been watching the catch and the often heart-breaking struggle.</P>
031.sgm:<P>That afternoon the angler wears a little blue button. He has taken tarpon, perhaps the weird rohu and mahsir that Kipling sings about; but he would not exchange his experience with all these for that four hours' battle with the leaping tuna along these placid waters.</P>
031.sgm:<P>So delightful are the conditions of the sport at this isle of summer that they become compensations even for occasional poor luck, as even tunas are uncertain and seasons have been known to pass when the fish, over one hundred pounds in weight, absolutely spurned all lures.  The winter here is the time of flowers, or from the coming of the rain, from November to April, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>There is another feature which makes rod tuna fishing possible here.  The tunas at Nova Scotia and other localities on the Atlantic Coast average six or nine hundred pounds. Large fishes predominate, at least this is my experience.  I have collected data from 1850 on, and such game is doubtless beyond the field of the rod angler.  On the Pacific Coast very large tunas are rare, the record rod catch of Avalon, held by Col. C. P. Morhouse, weighing but two hundred and fifty-one pounds, the average tuna seen being one hundred and fifty down to seventy pounds.  This accounts for the number caught, a number large when the agility of the fish is considered, but small in reality.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It is these conditions, the absolutely quiet water of the Kuroshiwo as it flows down the coast, which have produced this tuna ground, a veritable paradise for good anglers.  The angler who has fairly killed a tuna weighing over one hundred and fifty pounds after a constant fight of four or five hours has accomplished, in my opinion, a feat more difficult than shooting a tiger from the back of an elephant or a lion from cover.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:have always had a fondness, more or less unreasonable, possibly, for large game of the sea, and have taken almost every hard fighter from tarpon to the giant-ray, but award the palm of hard fighting to the tuna <HI REND="italics">at its best</HI>
031.sgm:.  Some weakened by spawning or other causes can be landed in ten minutes with a club-rod, and strong women have landed this fish, but the one-hundred-and-fifty-pound tuna in the <HI REND="italics">best</HI>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XVIII</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Coaching at Santa Catalina</P>
031.sgm:<P>THE Pacific coast of North America has long been famous for its coach lines and the men who held the lines.  Before the advent of the railroad six-in-hand coaches carried passengers all over the State.  One line ran from San Francisco to Los Angeles, five hundred miles; from here another ran to San Diego and over the desert to Yuma, Santa Fe, and the East.  This difficult service developed a peculiar class of men or drivers, noted for their courage; daring men who would take a mountain road at full speed where there was not a foot to spare.  The early pages of California history are filled with stories of the marvellous exploits of these men. The coming of rail and electric roads has almost driven the stage out of business in Southern California.  There is a notable exception at the island of Santa Catalina.  The island is really a spur of the coast range, separated from the mainland by the Santa Catalina Channel; a jumble of picturesque peaks running in every direction and worn into thousands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Lovers of coaching--and by this is meant mountain coaching--doubtless form a class by themselves, but it is difficult to understand how any one fond of sport that has an essence of daring in it cannot enthuse over this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The start is made at Avalon, the coach pulling up to the hotels in the morning, the passengers booked taking their places soon after nine.  The drivers are characters; all have histories.  One was a driver in the Arizona mountains for years--his stories of hold-ups and adventures would fill a volume; another is an old Yosemite driver, familiar with curves, precipices, and dizzy trails--men who never get "rattled," and who thoroughly understand their business.  The road takes us up a street of the little town, turns sharply, rounds a point reaching into the sea, and in a few moments we are high above Avalon, its crescent bay standing out in relief, the blue Pacific stretching away in every direction.  A sudden turn is made and the road is seen climbing a shelf on the side of Descanso Ca&ntilde;on that reaches the sea parallel to Grand Ca&ntilde;on, separated from it by a spur of the mountains.  The road is perfect, and the horses are obliged to walk slowly to the summit, perhaps three miles by the winding road.  At every turn the driver has a story to fascinate the tenderfoot on the box seat.</P>
031.sgm:<P>"I call this Rattlesnake Point," said the driver, flicking his whip at the place which appeared to hang over the ocean, one thousand feet below.</P>
031.sgm:<P>"Why ?" asked the young lady who had the box seat.</P>
031.sgm:<P>"Why," echoed the driver, glancing at her, "as I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>"I can't imagine," said the young lady from the East, with a look of horror on her face.</P>
031.sgm:<P>"When I pushed in the door," continued the driver, "there was a burglar lying on the floor.  The rattler had the thief by the coat, and its tail was out of the window, rattlin' for the police.  And yet," the driver added, glancing out of the corner of his eye at the young lady and tossing the long lash at the leaders, "some folks say animals don't think, and snakes is cold-blooded.'</P>
031.sgm:<P>Every foot of the rise gives the rider a new vista of mountains and ocean. We are now half-way up, making a sharp horse-shoe curve.  The deep ca&ntilde;on drops completely away o,, the right; we can toss a stone that will roll a thousand feet.  The trees at the bottom look like <illus entity="a031-0065" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Six-in-hand Swinging around the Loop</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The coach is always following the indentations of the ca&ntilde;on.  This road is but a shelf fifteen feet wide, cut out of its side.  Now we are facing the mountains, now seemingly walking into the ocean, or about to drop into space.  Ever rising, new peaks come into view, new points; ranges of purple mountains, silvered with flecks of gray; and so on, until the horses step out upon the loop--a clever turn, where the lady on the box seat looks into space and practically sees the two leaders coming toward her, so sudden is the curve.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Higher the horses climb, finally stepping out upon the hilltop at the summit, fifteen hundred feet up, where they face the sea, commanding a view perhaps without peer in America.  The entire island is seen, a maze and jumble of peaks and ranges so high above the ocean that the ships below appear like chips floating on its surface.  The walk up of the six horses has taken possibly an hour and a half.  You can if you wish go down in eighteen or twenty minutes, if it happens that you are in the stage that does not go through.  I have taken it many times, and am prepared to award the palm to this splendid ride as the most exciting in my experience.  It is the acme of coaching possibilities, exhilarating and perfectly safe.  The regular drivers are only allowed to make the descent at a certain speed, but I have taken it a number of times with Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>I was impressed by the splendid handling of the six horses on a road where a fall, a break, or a wrong NM meant something.  The driver had them absolutely in hand, and the spirit was infectious.  We were literally running down a mountain cliff at full speed.  Now the horses would make a sharp turn, the wheelers disappearing around the bends; but so deftly was the brake use that the coach turned safely, gradually slowing up a the right moment.  Then on the long, steep incline, the horses increased, if possible, their speed.  Now the turn at the head of the ca&ntilde;on, rising on the incline now rushing out onto the loop, the leaders seemingly in the air, but turning so quickly and suddenly an easily that the wheelers are going one way and the coach another; but this is for only a moment.  The coach crosses its own track, doubles on itself, an plunges down the road or shelf, seemingly into the blue waters.  One feels like taking off his hat and cheering it is like dropping out of a balloon, the sky and mountains <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>If the return ride is not taken, the coach moves on from the summit along the north face of the island; crossing some of the deepest ca&ntilde;ons, affording a series of fine views of ocean and abyss.  Suddenly the road turns at the head of what is called Middle Ranch Ca&ntilde;on, and the horses gallop down into the heart of the island. The ca&ntilde;on deepens and a brook appears; now running through an arcade of willows, between masses of the wild rose, if in early spring, which fill the air with perfume. Flocks of the plumed quail rise here and there, and count. less numbers run along the road before the horses.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Here is refreshment for man and beast; we listen to the tales of the goat hunters, who are making their headquarters here, then again take our seats, and the coach winds away out of the Middle Ranch Ca&ntilde;on down by the big spur of Orizaba which is an island divide. About five miles from Eagle Nest we come to Little Harbour Inn, where two perfect and diminutive harbours face the west, affording a fine view of the rocky coast up and down the island. The cliffs are precipitous in the extreme; but the feature which will perhaps attract the attention of the man on the box seat or in the saddle will be the succession of evidences of prehistoric occupation pointed out by the driver.  To the south of Little Harbour a level plateau rises above the sea, the site of an ancient Indian town, hundreds, perhaps thousands of years old.  I found it fifteen years ago, and there are many interesting evidences of human occupation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Here the driver has a fine descending road in which to entertain the lovers of fast driving.  It happens that all the passengers wish to be so entertained, and they request him in a body to "let them out."  To say that he responded is putting it mildly.  The old driver out-does himself, and in a few seconds the fine team that has been changed back at the inn is galloping down the road at full speed.  The skill of the driver, the manner in which he sends the six running horses around impossible curves, is beyond description.  A moment ago we were standing on the divide where we could almost toss a stone into the blue water, five hundred feet below; now we are rushing down the incline and round up in gallant fashion at Cabrillo.  Tobogganing cannot be had at Santa Catalina, but in this stage ride you have a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Cabrillo is the site of one of the largest ancient Indian towns in California.  It is a vast kitchen midden. Houses and stables are built over mounds of bones and abalones, and here tons of stone implements have been dug up, and taken to the British and other museums in England and America.  As a pleasant diversion the coach ride ends here; the party may return by coach if they wish, but the trip includes a trip back by launch, fifteen miles down the north coast to Avalon, which affords the coacher a complete view, near at hand, of the attractive and picturesque coast, and enables him to see the coach road over which he has passed from the ocean; caves which cut deep into the rock; lofty cliffs, fair reaches of mesa, lofty peaks and jumbles of hills, winding ca&ntilde;ons forming little beaches here and there, make up the panorama as the yacht dashes along near the rocks, over the famous tuna grounds that are known to anglers the world over, finally reaching the vale of Avalon in the afternoon, after a round trip of perhaps forty miles through a region that has a most romantic interest, being in 1540 the home of a vigorous race, which, like the buffalo and other original inhabitants, have long ago been wiped out of existence.</P>
031.sgm:<P>This stage road has been extended five or six miles north of Cabrillo, reaching Howland's, an attractive little bay on the north-east coast near Ship Rock--the finest fishing ground about the island.  Another fine <illus entity="a031-0066" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Bird's-eye of the Coach Road</HI>
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031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The stage line does not run at all seasons, but to the wild goat or quail hunter the road and trail are always open, and on horseback the mountain lover will find the trip to in every way repay the effort.  The stage driver is a luxury, but not an essential.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XIX</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Sea-Lion's Den</P>
031.sgm:<P>THE Pacific islands off Southern California abound in sea-lions, which afford excellent sport, but not with the rifle.  The hunter must satisfy himself with the camera, as the animals are protected, but the hunt is exciting, owing to the close proximity of the game, and in some instances its absolute fearlessness.  One huge bull, weighing nearly half a ton, comes out upon the beach at Avalon to be fed at times.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In riding over the mountains of the islands, from Santa Rosa to Santa Clemente, one may hear roars and bellowing coming from hundreds of feet below.  If one has the curiosity to locate these sounds and find out what they mean, he may follow down the deep, rocky ca&ntilde;ons that reach to the sea, or crawl down the face of the cliffs to come suddenly, perhaps, upon the rookery of the lions of the sea, that can be found along-shore in isolated places.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In years gone by these islands gave shelter to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>On the island of Santa Catalina the sea-lions have been protected, and on the south end of the island is the finest rookery known, when the tameness of the animals is considered, as they permit visitors to approach within a few feet of the rocks and photograph them. The bulls here are of large size, and they have recently divided and formed a rookery near Long Point, on what is known as White Rock.  These lions are several times as large as a common seal, and while the latter has a short neck, that of the former is long and snake-like, and the animal has a ferocious mien. The big mouth is filled  with  sharp  teeth,  the animals being very active, appearing like huge black slugs.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The sea-lions go ashore in June, and the young soon appear on the sands at the base of the great coloured cliffs, taking to the water when approached, but easily tamed.  At this time the entire herd leave the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The sea-lion is a very clever animal, lying on the rocks during the day, basking in the sun; and as the latter disappears, he tumbles overboard, often swimming twenty or thirty miles up the coast, going at a rapid rate, entering the bays, especially those where fishermen make their headquarters. In Avalon Bay the barking of sea-lions can sometimes be heard all night, one or more remaining there until all the fishes thrown overboard are removed.  They are so tame that fishermen, in washing fish, have had it snatched from their hands, and they will often follow fishermen about and steal the bait as fast as they can put it on, yet never appear above water, the angler thinking it a fish, the sea-lion just bringing the tip of his nose to the surface to breathe.  Sometimes during the day you may find them lying in the kelp beds, and they rarely venture far from shore, as there the big orcas and sharks chase them.  An orca was killed up the coast at Soquel some years ago that contained five sea-lions.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In all probability, one of the most remarkable sea-lion rookeries in the world is in the Painted Cave, at the island of Santa Cruz, one hundred miles north of Santa Catalina, where boats can be chartered for the trip, or at Santa Barbara, directly opposite.  This cave leads in under the mountain at Point Diablo.  As I tried to land on the slippery ledge of a rookery not far from here, intending to go ashore, the sea-lions came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The opening of the Painted Cave, from the sea, was an arch about fifty feet in height, leading into a large room beautifully coloured red, pink, blue, green, and yellow from the staining of the rocks by salts. From this we rowed the boat into what was really another room, thirty or forty feet high, the water being ten or fifteen feet deep, as clear as crystal, the bottom a mosaic of colour.  We were rowing into a sea-cavern, and when possibly about two hundred feet in we came to a small opening about the size of our boat, there being just room enough to float in after a wave, from which came roars, screams, and demoniac sounds sufficient to raise the ancient dead of Santa Cruz.  Every few moments a wave would come rolling into the cave, passing from room to room, and on reaching the small orifice, or entrance, in front of which we drifted, would close it completely and part of it go into the unknown with a roar of sounds that was appalling.  Waiting until a wave had passed we pointed the boat in and ran her into the den of lions, coming out into a room of large size where absolutely nothing could be seen. Lighting a flambeau only made the darkness more profound.  We struck two planks together, producing a sound like thunder, the noise rolling away off into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>I felt around the edge of this cave, and found a sort of shelf on which the sea-lions evidently rested.  I could hear them plunge over as we approached, and could see the flash of phosphorescence as they dashed through the water adding to the uncanny nature of the situation.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Some of the cries or barking of the sea-lions seemed to come from a long distance under the mountain, and, while it was mere conjecture, I should say four or five hundred or more feet, seemingly carrying out the idea of the men who believed that the cave ran completely under the mountain and was a den of not only sea-lions, but other creatures of the sea.  All the sea-lions dashed for one starlike spot in the cave, the opening through which we came; and as we passed out I saw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>At the present time the place where sea-lions are mostly caught is on the south-west side of the island, where the sea often makes a breach against the high cliffs.  In an isolated cleft of the rocks is a large rookery impossible to reach in rough water, but so situated that the herd cannot well escape when the men go ashore.  The latter are skilled cattlemen, who go over on a power launch, anchor off the island, and wait for a day when the lions are all on the rocks.  Then the boats work carefully in, watching their chance, the rowers backing water and holding the boat on the big waves until the sea-lion hunters have an opportunity to jump ashore.  Generally two or three men make the attempt at one time, and drive the lions back for some distance into a <HI REND="italics">cul de sac</HI>
031.sgm:<P>When the animals find they are cornered, they turn and charge the men, and it requires no little nerve to stand and face the open mouths of the roaring animals, which come on with a curious galloping, menacing motion.  It is at this psychological moment that <illus entity="a031-0068" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Sea-Lion Rookery at Santa Catalina Island</HI>
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031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>On Santa Rosa Island, which is twenty miles or more in length, there are several rookeries where many sea-lions can be found in winter, and at San Nicolas, about eighty miles from San Pedro, there are a number.  San Nicolas is a region of fierce storms, and to hear the roar of the sea-lions combined with that of the sea, to watch the flying clouds , and wild waves piling in, is something I will long remember.   We had tried several times to land here, and had been driven off time and again; but one morning we gained the long sandy spit that like a miniature Cape Cod is reaching out into the sea from San Nicolas.  It was on the lee side, but a strong dangerous current was setting along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>For some time we rode the breakers watching for an opportunity, and when the waves came in less menacing size we rowed in on the top of one, leaped over as the boat struck the beach, and dragged it up the sands. One man lived on this wind-swept place; and he was on the beach to meet us.  Probably in all America there is not a more desolate spot, or a more windy one, yet here was a man, monarch of all he surveyed. He told us that he had built his home down among the rocks so that it would not be blown into the sea.  I noticed great stones on the roof; these he said were to hold it down, as the wind was terrible.  He also seemed to fear the sea-lions, and said that during heavy storms they came up around his hut and roared and barked.</P>
031.sgm:<P>This great rookery was on the south end of the island, low and rocky, and the herd was on the main beach.  Some of the lions here were very large, especially the bulls, but they paid but little attention to us.</P>
031.sgm:<P>About forty miles south of San Nicolas lies the large island of San Clemente, twenty miles long.  I found a number of rookeries here, with many sea-lions; in nearly every instance in isolated places.</P>
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031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>At Santa Catalina the largest rookery of sea-lions is in the immediate vicinity of the best fishing ground, many kinds of fishes abounding within a few hundred feet of the place, and while the sea-lions are increasing there is never any discernible decrease in the fish supply.  The greatest cause of complaint against the sea- lions comes from the net fishermen, who claim that they visit the nets with great regularity and take out the fish.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I observed this on several occasions.  A sea-lion stationed itself near a net in the kelp, and every few minutes dived down and swam along the net, biting off the body of any fish that became gilled.  This was done despite the fact that I was near the net in a boat, with the Italian owner, who hurled imprecations at the sea-lion when it came up from the net with a large rock bass in its mouth and deliberately tossed it into the air, as though to irritate the fisherman, who, while robbed in the grossest manner, was prevented by law from shooting the animals.  No more interesting feature of wild life can be seen on the Pacific Coast than the sea-lion rookeries, and the ease and comfort with which one reaches them render the sport of bringing them down with the camera very enjoyable.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XX</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Trolling in Deep Water</P>
031.sgm:<P>IN sailing down the Santa Catalina Channel one may often meet several trim launches flying gay flags, several miles off the bay of Avalon.  The boats are models of comfort and utility; about twenty feet in length, with an eight-horse-power engine, and two seats astern and facing it for the anglers, whose rods point to port and starboard.  The boatman is engineer, gaffer and steersman, and sits behind them as they cruise up and down the blue water, which may be a thousand or more feet deep and doubtless is.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The game here is the bonito and albacore, the latter a large mackerel-like fish allied to the bonito; big-eyed, stout of body, coloured a rich blue, and provided with a pair of side fins that are so long they look like sabres hung to the side of this doughty swashbuckler of the sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The albacore is found here almost the entire year, preferring the channel, away from land, though I have taken it inshore along the kelp beds. The average <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Another albacore, ranking with the tuna as a game fish and weighing about fifty pounds, is the yellow-fin, or Japanese hirenaga ( <HI REND="italics">Sermo macropterus</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The albacore is always on the move, and going fast; it stands not on the order of going, but appears to be on the constant lookout for game or victims of some kind; hence it is easy game for the angler, who rigs his lure with a big smelt or a flying-fish, and moving fast has a continuous series of strikes--the fish making a very gamy play, though, like nearly all deep sea fish, inclined to sulk, although taken on the surface.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The most remarkable rod catch ever made in these waters was of albacore.  The Avalon boatmen who took out anglers and looked on, but never fished, one day decided to go a-fishing; so they refused work and every launch went out with its owner and a friend in the seats, bound for the trolling ground offshore.  They had agreed on the terms of the tournament, had prizes and cups, and at the end of the day about thirty rods reported about an average of ten albacores each ranging from ten to thirty pounds, the aggregate making a <illus entity="a031-0070" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Catch of Black Sea-Bass and Albacore at Santa Catalina, by a waiting member of the Ananias Club. His father's Rod</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The boatman baits the line, and the launch moves on, now inshore, but still in deep water that is an intense blue to the very cliff, showing that the island is a mountain out at sea,  The ocean is like glass, and so clear that the big leaves of olive-hued kelp can be seen, sIxty feet or more below, slowly waving in the current.</P>
031.sgm:<P>We slack out forty feet of line and are watching the charming panorama of lofty cliffs and silvery gates to deep ca&ntilde;ons which wind upward into the mountains, when <HI REND="italics">ze-e-e-e-e-e, wh-r-r-r-r-r!</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Now he is gaining, reeling for life, the big multiplier (and it must be big to hold all the line this fish will take) eating up feet and yards as he reels and reels. Now it is away, a plunge into the sea, and the angler is forced to "pump" it up, raising the rod on high to drop it with a quick motion, reeling all the while, and gaining four or five feet at every effort, until finally a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:glint of silver and green is seen against the blue, and along the quarter, circling the boat, bearing off bravely, flashing in the sunlight, is a splendid bonito ( <HI REND="italics">Sarda chilensis</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Minutes have crept away, and twenty have been captured by the fish that, mad with fear, turns and plunges downward to the cry of the <HI REND="italics">reel-ze-e-e-e-e</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Twenty pounds is the verdict, and taken on a six-teen-thread line in just twenty minutes.  Here is joy enough, one would think, but while the anglers are admiring the fine points of the fish, the other rod gives tongue, and a blare of sounds strikes the air, while the rod nods, bends, and swings up and down as though mad.  Away go feet and yards, until the spool seems to be melting into the sea, and the boatman whispers, "Stop him, sir, or he'll get away with you altogether."</P>
031.sgm:<P>Stop him! aye, that 's the question, but how?  You are pressing your right thumb on the line with all your force.  Your hand is numb, and the rushing, grinding cord, a mere thread, is throwing a fine spray of powdered leather in every direction.  You press the line <illus entity="a031-0071" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The Oceanic Bonito</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>All the tricks of the salt sea trade are his: circling, sounding, sulking, bravado; all are tried in turn. Every effort is made to break the line or rod, or take the angler unawares; but all to no purpose, and in fifteen minutes the gaff slips beneath it, and a fifteen-pound albacore ( <HI REND="italics">Sermo alalunga</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Out go the lines again, and in a few moments another bonito is hooked; this time the "skip-jack" ( <HI REND="italics">Gymnosarda pelamis</HI>
031.sgm:<P>These fishes are ocean travellers, and found out around the islands nearly the entire year.  Off Santa Cruz I have seen schools which fairly covered the surface for acres; and from the Coronados, north and south, they are the common fish offshore, running with the albacores and tunas, all at times forming a devastating army; charging the schools of flying-fishes, and in turn being chased by the orcas, or killers, that parade up and down the deep channel all summer.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There is a fascination about this fishing ground not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The play of the albacore is much like that of the bonito, only harder, and is a revelation to the rod fisherman who has never taken large game, and I have known a fish weighing not over sixty-three pounds to tow a heavy boat and fight for two hours.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XXI</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The California Weakfish</P>
031.sgm:<P>IN all probability more men go down New York Bay for weakfish than for any other denizen of the shallow waters, and thousands have sat in the hot sun on the edge of the flats at the mouth of the river and felt well repaid with a four- or five-pound weakfish.</P>
031.sgm:<P>What would such an angler say to a fifty-pounder, not one but a dozen, or to see an eighty-pounder towing a boat across a placid bay?  This can be seen in Southern California, or from the Gulf to San Francisco, as the Californians have a weakfish that is a giant, ranging up to one hundred pounds or more.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The fishes of the largest size are found in Lower California in the Gulf of California. I have been told of fine sport on the coast north of Tiburon, where the tide falls very low and comes in with a bore like that of Hang Chow or the Bay of Fundy.  On the crest of this wave comes the white sea-bass, as it is called, a typical weakfish; and down in the Gulf it is taken by standing on the beach and casting into the surf, in which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>This is out of the world and on the edge of a desert, but the same fish comes in on the Californian coast in April and affords a short season.  All those I have caught weighed over fifty pounds, this being about the average size of vast schools of the splendid game. Santa Catalina and San Clemente islands appear to be in the line of migration of the schools, and they are taken at Port Hartford and along the coast. They first appear, so far as known, at the south end of the island, and move slowly north, entering the bays and lying under the schools of sardines and smelt that congregate here.  Thus large schools will enter Avalon Bay, Cabrillo, and others, and can be followed up as the fishes pass north.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I once ran into a large school at San Clemente Island, which is about fifty miles offshore.  We were lying in a little bay when a ripple on the surface told of a large school of fishes of some kind, and pushing off we entered the largest school of bass I have ever seen. They were fishes of the largest size, and were so tame that they paid little or no attention to the boat. I could easily have grained or speared them.</P>
031.sgm:<P>We had some flying-fishes, and my oarsman hooking one on, I cast into the school thirty feet away.  Down they dropped, then a whirl of flying water, a miniature maelstrom, and a fish had it. Here mark the difference between game of one kind and game of another.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:fish seized the enormous bait and poised like a big barracuda, gulping and trying to swallow it. This occupied several seconds; then, when the gastronomical feat was an accomplished fact, it felt the slender wire leader and suspecting that something was wrong, turned and <HI REND="italics">zeeee-zeee-zeee</HI>
031.sgm:<P>There are those who do not care for large game--a fifty-pounder does not appeal to them,--and I confess that a four- or five-pound small-mouth black bass meets my fancy best; yet there is a fascination about taking a large fish; if this were not so it would not have passed into song and history that the largest fishes <HI REND="italics">always</HI>
031.sgm: escape.  As I held my rod stiff and played gently upon the leather pad, mentally figuring on the chances, I half believed my fish was one of the "biggest" and would escape, as I was experimenting with a very fine line not equal to the task,  The Chinese fisherman has an especial god for fishing.  You may see it: a bunch of red firecracker-like paper, pinned to the cabin or its wall; and I fancy something of the kind was around about, as the particular saint that has charge of all anglers was very kind to me and I saved my catch.  He made a brave fight and had I forced him the line and I would have parted company long before; but I handled him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>312</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:with care, gave line when he wished it very decidedly, played him with caution, and kept down what ebullition of spirits I might have had until the game was in the boat.  For nearly an hour this gamy fish fought me, nearly always on the surface, gradually reaching off-shore, coming to the gaff in a blaze of glory, and tossing the water and the spray over the boat in a last defiance. It was nearly five feet in length, an ocean peacock; its head ablaze with prismatic tints, its sides a rich grey, the belly silver, looking very much like a typical salmon and known to many anglers as the sea salmon; yet every inch a weakfish, and a fifty-pounder.<ANCHOR ID="n21-1">*</ANCHOR>
031.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-1"><HI REND="italics">Cynoscion nobile</HI>
031.sgm:<P>It would be interesting to see such a fish played on a typical salmon rod, to try the relative qualities of the game.  I do not know positively, but I fancy that the white sea-bass would wreck the salmon rod, or make the catch so long that the most patient angler would be wearied.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There is no more fascinating spectacle than a large school of bass swimming near the surface--types of dignity, strength, and reserve force; and the angler should never allow the opportunity to pass, as they are extremely fickle and the season a short one.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There is still another weakfish in Southern California, called the sea trout, that does not grow so large, found along the mainland shore where the larger bass are rare, evidently giving the surf a wide berth.</P>
031.sgm:<illus entity="a031-0073" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Mount San Antonio (10,120 feet). Home of Mountain Sheep</HI>
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031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The young of the large bass are also called sea trout; gamy creatures rarely caught except in the gill-nets of the professional fishermen.  The latter have an interesting calling at the channel islands, but particularly in the Santa Catalina Channel, where all the market fishing of Los Angeles County is done.  The men, mostly Italians, go out in their typical lateen-rigged boats and troll for the barracuda, that schools in these waters and constitutes a favourite market fish.  With four or more hand lines boomed out, these boats sail up and down the channel and catch barracuda by the score.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Then there is the sand dab fisherman, who goes out three miles from Avalon to a sandy-bottomed country where he lowers a line three hundred feet down, with a dozen hooks on it, allowing it to remain for half an hour, then winding it up with a wheel.  The catch, a little fish resembling a sole, is considered a feast for the gods.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Over in the San Clemente Channel we may see still another fisherman.  He has a long trawl with several hundred hooks, which is set in six hundred feet of water, coming up with deep-sea groupers--strange, big-mouthed fishes of deep red and crimson tints.</P>
031.sgm:<P>With them come small sharks and various strange fishes, and enormous hammer-heads haunt the region, preying upon the groupers and other denizens of deep water.  The gill-net and seine fishermen ply a profitable trade. The gill-nets are set at night out in the channel, and a variety of fishes are taken--Spanish mackerel, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The surf fishes are particularly interesting, as they belong to a peculiar group in which the young are born alive.  The latter, which I have kept in a tank, are most interesting little creatures, very tame, feeding from the hand, and schooling like sardines.  No more interesting locality in which to fish and study fishes can be found than in the waters off the coast of Southern California, as it appears to be a sort of neutral zone where fishes meet from widely separated regions, from Hawaii to Mexico and beyond.  It is also the breeding ground for many fishes, and the resort of countless wild sea roamers, as bonito, mackerel, tuna, sunfish, dolphin, and many more which can be found here in the various seasons.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XXII</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>A Window of the Sea</P>
031.sgm:<P>IN the old days of Roman supremacy it was the custom of epicures and gentlemen of cultivation and well ripened tastes to have the surmullet or the maigre served that day introduced on the splendidly appointed table in an aquarium, where its freshness was demonstrated beyond question to the assembled guests.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The angler can now go a-fishing in Avalon Bay, sit in the boat and fish while looking down through a window of the sea; not only see his game slightly magnified, but watch it take the lure in water from ten to fifty feet deep, thus observing what has nearly always been a mystery to the fisherman.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Where this pastime is possible, twenty miles out at sea, due to the clearness and absolute stillness of the water, a fleet of glass-bottom boats is found; ranging from a rowboat with a window for a single, or two anglers, to a steamer holding fifty or more passengers who drift over the kelp beds to enjoy the vistas of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>So attractive are these kelpian forests, so fascinating to investigate, that the glass-bottom-boat voyages to them have become a pastime so well defined that thousands indulge in it, and the fleet with windows in the bottom cruises up and down the smooth waters, by the sea-lion rookeries, affording one of the most pleasing and novel experiences to be enjoyed on the Pacific Coast.</P>
031.sgm:<illus entity="a031-0075" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Black and White Sea-Urchins</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>At Avalon there are no hackmen; it is a sort of mountain Venice, where carriages are at a discount, except for mountain climbing.  One takes a sea automobile, numbers of which lie in the bay, and the captains of the glass-bottom boats replace the hackmen of the mainland and cry the merits of their strange craft, each of which claims to the knowledge of some especially beautiful sea meadow or glade which he will take you over for the small sum of two bits.</P>
031.sgm:<P>These crafts are of all sizes and are significant of the attractions of the gardens of the sea, and doubtless the study of marine zo&ouml;logy never had more patrons than at this isle of summer where thousands of persons yearly make the safe and picturesque voyage.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The glass window in the boat is set in a few inches from the bottom so that when the boat grounds the glass does not.  A large oblong well is built in the boat, its edges being padded; and about this from one to fifty observers can sit and gaze down at the passing throng a succession of ejaculations expressing the delight and satisfaction of the voyagers.  The skipper of the craft discourses learnedly and always picturesquely on the strange creatures that pass In vIew.  The captain of the glass-bottom boat is generally a character: amiable, courteous to a degree, replete with a marvellous, sometimes fearsome store of facts relating to the wonders of the deep, which he shares with his guests, affording a most interesting divertisement.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The voyager when the glass-bottom boat starts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The fitness of the term hanging gardens is apparent, as the great leaves appear to rise near the surface, then droop over, forming graceful arches and loops and conveying the impression of being suspended at the surface.  The colour is a deep olive, grading to yellow; the leaves a foot or more wide and very long; their edges crimpled. Each one is seen to be covered with a lacelike network of great beauty.  Delicate plumes wave to and fro, telling of worms or minute sertularians. Here the tracery is white, like frosted silver, the limy deposit of some animal, while others are of rich lavender hues, all plainly seen as the great leaves are brushed across the glass window.  The vagrant beams of light which strike the surface bring out the tints and shades in high relief.  Through a green loop of kelp is seen the turquoise blue of deep water, and poised in it an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>On the leaves are seen singular crabs, red and olive, with square shells, and deeper in the crevices of the moss-covered rock are gigantic spider crabs a foot across, mimicking the rocks in shape and colour.  The nature of the forest is ever changing.  Now great pompons of a rich dark weed appear, in splendid tints, born of the deep sea.  It waves gracefully as the slight swell comes in, and as it turns aside displays the very giant of the star-fishes, a huge creature garbed in red, with white spikes or tubercles scattered over it, a most conspicuous object among the greens.  The star-fish is twelve inches across, and slowly moves along by the aid of its myriad feet.  In the crevices are smaller stars; some a vivid red, others dark, with arms like snakes.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The bottom changes now to a finer moss or weed, a deep velvet green here or there, changing to iridescent tints; and in it lie big, slug-like, brick-red sea-cucumbers; and then--presto! the captain of the glass-bottom boat transports us to a deep glen in which lacelike plants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The bottom of the sea along this rocky shore is a colour scheme of marvellous beauty.  Green is the predominating hue, but green in countless shades, tones, and expressions.  Sometimes a short wiry weed covers the bottom, but it is constantly being waved aside to display other and more beautiful colours: weeds in purple, brown, rocks of lavender encrusted with a flaming red sponge or a mass of pink serpul&aelig;, from which rises the delicate mauve tracery of their breathing organs.  This sea tapestry is constantly in motion, so has the appearance of changing light and shade, tint and colour, every moment displaying some new creature to the voyagers of the curious craft with windows looking down into the sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>As it glides along, the bottom seemingly slipping away, a strange pointed snakelike head appears, projecting from the algae.  It turns, glides forward with a singular  motion, and displays itself; an eel or moray, four feet or more in length and proportionately robust.  It is a dark brown colour, spotted here and there with  yellow, and should it open <illus entity="a031-0076" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">In the Hanging Gardens</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The glass window is now poised over a group of forms which must be the flowers of this marine forest. They are gigantic sea-anemones, four or five inches across and several tall, while radiating from the cIrcumference are innumerable mauve and purple petals which give the lowly animal, a cousin of the corals, a startling resemblance to a Burbank daisy, or some large flower of that class.  Some are fully expanded, standing firm and erect; others are closed, the petals drawn in so that they appear to be mere mounds of mauve on the rocks. Near them are true corals, which appear to be anemones, the delicate pellucid tentacles rising above the limy tube.  Moving offshore, huge comet-like jellies may be seen, twenty to thirty feet in length, with dark lavender markings, or more delicate and fairy-like living traceries drifting in the current, standing out against the deep blue of the sea.  Large fishes poise in the lower depths, the large sea-bass mimicking the folds of the great kelpian forest that rolls and sways above them In the current.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Nature is a very clever masquerader, and has apparently so bedecked several large fishes that they find abundant protection in the resemblance to the crimpled leaves of the kelp.  None of the lookers-on can see the kelp-fish which the skipper assures them is directly before their eyes.  But suddenly the leaf, or what they thought was a leaf, stirs, unbends, and resolves itself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The window drifts past a slug-like animal lying on painted rocks, the <HI REND="italics">b&eacute;che de mer</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The animals of the hanging gardens are not confined to the kelp or to the rocks of the bottom.  The blue water where the sunlight enters brings out myriads of delicate forms, poising, drifting, swimming, the veritable gems of the sea.  Some are red as the ruby; others blue like sapphire; some yellow, white, brown, or emitting vivid flashes of seeming phosphorescent light. Ocean sapphires they are called; the true gems of the <illus entity="a031-0077" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The Glass-Bottom Boat, Santa Catalina Island</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Nearly all these pellucid crafts move by slow flapping of the umbrella-like disk; but here is a jelly, the <HI REND="italics">Physophora</HI>
031.sgm:<P>As the boat moves out into deep water the purity of this aqueous sky is seen, as fifty feet below the rocks are plainly visible, and the dim shapes of kelp leaves faintly outlined far beyond.  Here large fishes float: the graceful sheep's-head, peculiar to the region, the male having enormous red and black stripes, a blunt forehead, and the lower jaw of pure white.  The female is a radiant creature, with beautiful eyes, and often red, brown, or white.  These fishes are easily attracted to the boat by a judicious display of bait, where their graceful forms can be plainly observed.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Now the window is over deep water, to see the passing school of barracuda: tens of thousands of long, slender, pike-shaped fishes, all headed in one direction, swimming slowly, a picture of a thousand staring black <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>In and out, now in shallows where the velvet-like rocks are near the surface, now offshore, following in the trail of some vagrant shark, the shallow steamer moves, affording strange vistas of the sea and its secrets, and emphasising the fact that a new method of study has been found in the field of popular science that is at once a pastime and recreation.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>These fish like to bask and sport near the surface, and the window appears full of them as it moves along. Rock bass, singly and in schools, are seen poised in alcoves of the kelp, richly striped brown and black; and here the radiant "white" fish, as blue as the water, with long and beautiful fins, while in the depths below other and interesting forms are seen, all slightly magnified by the glass.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In and out, now in shallows where the velvet-like rocks are near the surface, now offshore, following in the trail of some vagrant shark, the shallow steamer moves, affording strange vistas of the sea and its secrets, and emphasising the fact that a new method of study has been found in the field of popular science that is at once a pastime and recreation.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XXIII</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Cruising Along the Channel Islands</P>
031.sgm:<P>STRUNG along the coast of Southern California are several groups of islands: the Coronados of San Diego, the Santa Catalina group, off Los Angeles County, and the Santa Barbara Islands, opposite the Santa Ynez Mountains, that rise in graceful lines over the old Spanish town, one of the few in Southern California still possessing strong individuality.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The Coronados are small, and have no permanent residents.  The Santa Catalina group consists of four islands: Santa Catalina, eighteen miles offshore, twenty-two miles long and sixty around;  Santa Barbara Rock, twenty-five miles north; San Nicolas, eighty miles out at sea, to the north-west, and San Clemente, nearly as large as Santa Catalina, forty miles to the south-west from the mainland.  The Santa Barbara Islands lie on the channel of that name, about twenty miles offshore, and are four in number:  Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel, all but the former being of large size.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Nearly all these islands are peaks of an offshore coast range, thrust up here ages ago, and we can imagine them lofty isolated peaks rising from a ridge that doubtless runs along shore far to the south.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Only one of these groups, Santa Catalina, has a permanent settlement, the town of Avalon. This is the only inhabited island open to the public and having regular daily boats.  Avalon is a fully-fledged and well-equipped community, with hotels, cottages, homes, and what is without question the finest rod fishing for large game fishes in the world.  This and its singularly perfect climate have given Santa Catalina a wide reputation.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The town stands on a miniature crescent-shaped bay from which a deep ca&ntilde;on reaches away, stopped by a mountain range two miles to the west.  The vale of Avalon is a romantic and beautiful amphitheatre, surrounded by ranges of hills which rise one above the other in a jumble of peaks. In winter it is green, a marvellous contrast to the deep blue of the sea, in which the island rests in peace and tranquillity, almost the only object that is "pacific" in this sea of Balboa.  The harbour of Avalon is a miniature Naples, and the climate is so singular that from April to November, and often December, a storm or squall of any kind is unknown. Nearly every day there is a stiff breeze a short distance out, but along the rocky coast, near shore, the high mountains ranging up to twenty-two hundred feet produce a lee so that small boats are perfectly safe.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Here is often the rendezvous of the South Coast Yacht Club.  The yachts cruise among the islands, San Clemente, twenty miles distant, being an interesting point for its fine fishing and the fact that, like all the islands, it had at one time a large and vigorous native population whose strange implements are found buried in the shifting sand dunes that are constantly changing shapes.  San Clemente is government property, and is rented to sheep herders, from whom permission must be had before landing. An interesting cruise can be made to San Nicolas, about eighty miles from Avalon.  The island is in the region of eternal winds.  I made three attempts to reach it in a sixty-ton yacht, each time being driven back by heavy winds, or having to lay to in the heavy sea.   Approaching it, the island is seen to be low-lying, about seven miles long, with mountains or hills in the centre, and over it a cloud bank that is bombarded by' the wind, which apparently is never quite able to drive it off.  To the east a long sandy spit reaches out, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The landing is through the surf, and dangerous. Another anchorage is at Corral Harbour, several miles above.  The wind-gods hold San Nicolas, and a more uninviting spot it would be difficult to find.  The wind seemingly never ceases, lifting the sand into the air, whirling it along like wraiths, filling great ca&ntilde;ons, emptying others, and every day changing the landscape.  I crossed a plain as level as a floor, covered with small pebbles that at times the wind hurls through the air.  Despite its interesting features, San Nicolas is a good place to leave behind.  In 1836, we are told, the last Indians were taken away; but as they were leaving a squaw swam back to get her child, and for some reason was left and abandoned.  In 1856, twenty years later, George Nidever of Santa Barbara landed there, on an otter hunt.  To his surprise he found huts of whalebone, and near one an old woman, dressed in a garb of skins and feathers.  She presented a weird appearance; her language was unintelligible.  Nidever took her to Santa Barbara, where every attempt was made to find some one who could talk to her, but without success.  The "lost woman" died three months after her rescue, and was buried by the mission fathers.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In striking contrast are the Santa Barbara Islands, <illus entity="a031-0079" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The Bay and Vale of Avalon</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Santa Rosa lies farther out, and is a large island used as a sheep and cattle ranch.  Portions of San Miguel, which lies to the north, it may be said, are being blown into the sea.  With San Nicolas it represents the undoing of an island, and the view of white sand dunes flowing over mountains is an interesting phenomenon, and the island is worth visiting if for nothing else than to witness the vagaries of the winds which come in from the west and toss the sand aloft where clouds and wraiths go whirling through the air, borne upward to drop like snow upon the waters.  Three hundred years ago this island was discovered by Cabrillo, the Spanish adventurer, who died and was buried here. At that time the island, it is said, was covered with verdure, trees and brush, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Some time ago a schooner was thrown ashore on the beach, and--to show the remarkable movement of the sand--the vessel is now some distance inland and nearly buried out of sight by the insidious advance.  It has covered the deck, run down into the hold, partly filled the craft, so that from a distance she appears to be riding on a sea of sand, hard pressed and desolate.  All about, as far as the eye can reach, sand is coming down the hills or going up, covering the rocks and gullies, sweeping into ca&ntilde;ons and forming vast slides by which one can slide from the summit of a hill fairly into the bay.</P>
031.sgm:<P>As a picture of desolation and the rapid movement of sand, San Miguel has no equal.  It works like snow, the slightest obstacle being an excuse for piling up; and along the beach are seen a succession of sand waves, so high in some instances that the stroller is lost to sight as he moves slowly along.  There is no better place than this great amphitheatre of sand in which to observe the action of the wind, which at one point carries it up a steep slope, and not far away it is pouring down.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The advance of sand is often subtle and unobserved; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:even when the wind is low it is moving, and by lying down on the dune it can be seen coming along the surface in well-defined rivers.  I noticed this particularly on the outer islands of the Texan coast, where the sand rivers in numbers of instances were blowing a distance of a mile or more from the gulf across the flat to the inner bay.  They moved at about the same rate of speed that a man would walk, and were incessant, and had been for centuries; yet the island retained about the same shape, the loss of sand being equal to the supply. The prevailing wind at San Miguel is north-west, and wing and wing we fell away before it, leaving the inhospitable shores to make the harbour of Santa Barbara with its splendid beach and tiers of houses rising one above the other to the mountains of Santa Ynez. Yachting<ANCHOR ID="n23-1">*</ANCHOR>
031.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-1">None of the habitable islands of southern California are open to the public except Santa Catalina; but permission to land can doubtless be obtained from owners or lessees.</NOTE>
031.sgm:<P>The climatic features of Southern California lend themselves to produce very favourable conditions for yachting.  During the entire season, from May until November, there will be no storms, squalls, cyclones, thunder-storms, rain, or any of the conditions that hold on the Atlantic Coast.  Every day there is a west wind that can be counted on, sometimes strong, sometimes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The lee of the large islands often produces a dead calm, and for this reason auxiliary yachts are popular, being able to go into the nooks and corners of the coast. All summer there is a delightful, fresh, stiff breeze; heavier in the Santa Barbara Channel, lighter off Santa Catalina, and lighter still between San Diego and the Coronados.  As summer wanes and September comes, the wind all along shore dies down, diminishes in force, but the same delightful conditions hold far into the fall. In twenty years familiarity with the sea here, I have never run into a day fog similar to that which drifts in-shore off the New England coast.  The fog is always high during the day along the Santa Catalina Channel. The heavy bank can be seen offshore to the west, often-times stationary, holding its own by some mystic power against a ten-knot breeze; but at about five o'clock in the afternoon it will begin to move in, as clouds, from four to eight hundred feet up, coming inshore in long lines, creeping up the river beds, as the Santa Ana and San Gabriel, following along the Santa Ana and Sierra Santa Monica ranges and filling the valleys; but out at sea it is clear.  The high fog of Southern California nights and days is one of its blessings.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The winter season is equally delightful for yachting.  All the islands are then rich in greens, literal wild-flower <illus entity="a031-0080" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Fern Ca&ntilde;on, Santa Cruz Island</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Among the interesting plants to be seen here are Catalina dogwoods, five-leaved oaks, the rare MacDonald's oak, and a yellow Heteromeles. At Christmas time this island is ablaze with colour, the beautiful red berries of the holly, or Heteromeles, being seen everywhere.  Over the slopes, with Adenostoma in vivid green, is the Catalina apple,  <HI REND="italics">Crossosoma californicum</HI>
031.sgm:<P>Here blooms the <HI REND="italics">Malva rosa</HI>
031.sgm:, the wild lilac, while the glossy and delicate green of the wild cherry flashes in many ca&ntilde;ons, a contrast against the deeper greens of ironwood.  The silver tree, <HI REND="italics">Eriogonum</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The island--and I take it as a type, as it is the only one available to the public by daily boats--seems filled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<illus entity="a031-0081" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">The Vale of Avalon. Picturesque Golf Links at Santa Catalina</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The resorts of the world famous for "perfect climate" are those in France and Italy along the Riviera, visited by thousands of Americans who travel across seas and continents in search of a mild climate, not realising that in three and one half or four days they can reach from New York an American Riviera, the coast line of Southern California, far surpassing any locality in Europe in its climatic perfections.  To emphasise this the following table may be referred to-showing the difference between the monthly mean temperature of the resorts of the European Riviera and Southern California, January and July:</P>
031.sgm:<P>Rome, Italy<HSEP>25&deg;<HSEP>Nice, France<HSEP>30&deg;</P>
031.sgm:<P>Naples,  "<HSEP>30&deg;<HSEP>Cairo, Egypt<HSEP>27&deg; Jacksonville, Fla<HSEP>28&deg;<HSEP>Florence, Italy<HSEP>33&deg;</P>
031.sgm:<P>Auckland, N. Z<HSEP>19&deg;<HSEP>Avalon, Cal<HSEP>11&deg;</P>
031.sgm:<P>Coronado, Cal<HSEP>12&deg;<HSEP>Santa Barbara, Cal.<HSEP>13&deg;</P>
031.sgm:<P>No records are available as to the islands of San Clemente, Santa Cruz, and Santa Rosa, but doubtless very similar conditions hold, as the climate from Santa Barbara to Coronado, including the near-shore islands. is as near perfect as can be found, being invariably milder than the interior.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In cruising among the channel islands in winter, the yachtsman will occasionally experience north-westers and south-easters, but the rule is a succession of clear and beautiful days.  Santa Catalina Island has a good harbour in Avalon except when a south-easter blows; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XXIV</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Still Angler</P>
031.sgm:<P>ONE would look a long way along the New England coast, or possibly anywhere else, to find a municipality that would spend thousands of dollars in extending one or more splendid piers out into the sea for the sole benefit of anglers who might come that way; yet nearly every Southern California town on the sea-shore has such a pier, or several; not makeshifts, but fine affairs, leading out over and beyond the breakers, and in the main for the fisherman, the still angler, the philosopher of content, who comes from the interior and the East and fishes from the string-piece to his heart's desire.</P>
031.sgm:<P>These begin at Santa Monica, and reach to San Diego, where a long pier reaches out from Coronado. Possibly the culmination is found at Long Beach, where the pier is a double-decked affair, with a ballroom, concert hall, and a town, so far as shops are concerned, all out at sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>At Venice the pier is equally remarkable, having a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The pier is high above the water, to clear the long rollers that at times come piling in; hence the majority of the anglers use long stiff bamboo rods and big reels by which the fish can be lifted, and the renting of rods and the selling of bait is a remunerative business along-shore.  One may see the sides of these long piers crowded day after day by anglers--men, women, and children; a remarkable demonstration of the universal fascination which angling has for mankind.  There is nothing quite like it, except along the Thames, where at times hundreds of men may be seen patiently and philosophically holding a rod for game of the smallest size.  Doubtless the anglers hope to land a five- or six-pounder, and without hope and patience there would be no anglers.  But the secret is that these fine piers with <illus entity="a031-0083" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Beach Fishing for Leaping Sharks, Catalina Harbour</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>While the majority of the game is small from the pier, there are fishing launches near at hand, and you may go outside and troll for barracuda, bonito, or yellow-tail; or you may anchor in deep water and fish for the big black sea-bass. These boats and others take you to the great breakwater of San Pedro, a harbour which cost five million dollars, and to Point Firman and Portuguese Bend, the home of the mainland abalone fisheries.  At the former point can be seen at low tide during or after a storm some of the most remarkable waves on this or any coast, well worthy a visit even if a winter gale is blowing.  Off the point a rock rises out of the sea from a great stratified platform; as the sea comes piling in it strikes the rock, and is sent whirling, it is said, three hundred feet into the air, the dome of water assuming many beautiful shapes as it rises and falls, at its climax or maximum height resembling a splendid fountain, or some terrible explosion which has forced tons of water into the air in the shape of silvery pompons. At night, when the darkness is intense,  this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The still angler occasionally varies his sport by going out upon the beach, and with a long rod and heavy sinker casting for surf-fish or other game.  You may see the long stretch of sands dotted with these monuments of patience, these advocates of philosophical reflection and the peaceful arts, who face the rich strong wind and salty spume, and are happy if they do not get a gudgeon.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Along the laguna shores I have found good beach fishing for large rock-bass, standing in the water and with a fairly stiff rod casting fifty or sixty feet from the sands.  I have caught sheepshead from the rocks, yellow-tails from Avalon Beach, in the old days, and have seen the little beach lined with anglers, all of whom ultimately became involved in unutterable confusion as the big and gamy fish crossed the lines and amused themselves at the expense of the anglers.  At certain beaches at Santa Catalina there is fair leaping-shark fishing, particularly in July and August, at Catalina Harbour.  The heavy bait is carried out by the gaffer, who stands by on the beach and gaffs the game as it is reeled in.  This is the luxury of angling.  You do not leave the dry sand--that is not necessary, your gaffer does that--as there is no surf, the harbour being as smooth as a lake.  A strike comes, and as you hook <illus entity="a031-0084" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">A 300-foot Wave at San Pedro</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>You may see the still angler, on the inner bay, sitting on the sands at Alamitos, while over on the sand-dunes is his family listening to the music of the sea; or he is stationed at intervals on the outer beach down in the direction of Newport, his rods thrust in the sands and tagged with flags.  Again you find him at the great railroad pier at Port Los Angeles, or at Redondo, where the deep sea cuts in, at times bringing large fishes.</P>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XXV</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Tribe of Seriola</P>
031.sgm:<P>THE angler who has fished in Florida from Palm Beach to the Gulf has an especial pride in his amberjacks--one of the gamiest fishes of the Gulf Stream, running up to eighty or more pounds. clad in splendid vestments of colour, silver, gold, or amber; a type of matchless cunning and strength.  On coming to the Pacific slope, or to Southern California, he finds a cousin of this fish; not so thick-set, longer and a little more slender, but a near kinsman of the royal family, a <HI REND="italics">Sertola</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The amber-fish--call him what you will--comes from some mysterious realm offshore in March or April, increasing in numbers, as time goes on, until June, when he often throngs the Santa Catalina Channel and abounds in such numbers that the great schools fairly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>352</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>You may see the angler at Avalon sitting on post or string-piece of the dock angling for yellowtails and rock-bass--men, women, and children,--while out in the bay is a large fleet of rowboats, angling for this gamy roustabout that has been known to jerk a boy from the pier.</P>
031.sgm:<P>They tell a story at Avalon to the tenderfoot, which I will not vouch for, to the effect that one morning service was being held in a tent chapel, this being before the days of churches, when a small boy came in, whispered something in the ear of a man, who immediately got up and went out.  Presently another followed, others joined him, and when two thirds of the congregation had left, the Presiding Elder, unable to resist any longer, so the story goes, cried out, "Hold on, brethren, let's start fair," and hastened down the aisle, and was soon seen on the beach where every man, woman, and child had gathered to see the greatest run of yellowtails ever witnessed at the island.  They filled the waters of the little bay, a ravenous throng which bit at anything, and the beach was soon lined with anglers, who were involved in confusion worse confounded. No one who has not seen a similar sight or a jack-beat in Florida can form any conception of it, or the complete <illus entity="a031-0086" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Taking the Yellowtail</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>It is the fish of the people, and one of the sights in summer alongshore is to see the yellowtail fleet in August drifting or anchored at Avalon Bay.  There are from fifty to one hundred boats, ranging from row-boats to launches, with men, women, and children angling for a fish that averages twenty-five pounds.  No such rod-fishing can be seen anywhere in the world, so far as known, and--this is said advisedly,--this one fish alone would make the angling reputation of Southern California.  The big island is a wind-break, giving water often as smooth as glass and of an ineffable blue.  Glancing down into it you see a wealth of streamers, long beams of light pulsating, throbbing, extending here and there and bringing out into strong relief a variety of marvellous shapes, crystals, the very ghosts of animal life, yet living, pulsating animals. The most ardent angler cannot fail to notice these fairy forms, as. some are fishing in boats with glass bottoms through which the smallest creatures are seen with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>As the anglers sit and watch the drift in this floating throng some one raises a shout, and from the throats of the people in the yellowtail city comes a roar; shattering all the ethics of angling, as the man who has hooked a fish is encouraged in loud and joyous tones by every one else; there is no trace of envy here, and voices shout, "Good boy!"  "Give it to him!"  "Go in and win!" and other consoling phrases well known to anglers.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The victim takes it pleasantly as he is in the floating village by choice, and there are sixty miles of shore where he can fish alone ; so he plays his game and is not "rattled" by the roars of advice.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Glance at this game and its play.  The lucky angler has a light rod weighing not over ten ounces, a line known to the trade as a number nIne.  He is in one hundred feet of water and has hooked a yellowtail weighing at least seventeen pounds.  Will he land it? That is the question.  If cheering and vociferous encouragement be an aid, he will.  The fish has taken one hundred feet at the start; the rod is bent into a suggestive curve, and the reel is making music that is heard high above the noise.  He has tossed off his painter, and the fish is towing the light skiff out into the channel, making for deeper water.  Every now and then the reel sounds as the yellowtail makes a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:rush, and you see that its peculiarity of playing is to make a series of mad rushes that are irresistible.  <HI REND="italics">Zee, zee, zeee!</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The fish is down and out three hundred feet, hence, must be lifted; and we see the angler lower his rod, reeling quickly, "pumping," in this way gaining on the fish, that occasionally breaks away to the accompanying music of the reel, then comes slowly in, all the time bearing off with a force and vivacity that tests every fibre of rod or line, and angler's muscle.  If you were near enough, you would see deep in the heart of the azure channel a blaze of silver, with flashes of gold. The yellowtail is a hundred feet down at the end of thirty minutes, and the skiff one hundred yards from the fleet, where, perhaps, other anglers are in the toils. The fish is upon its side, bearing off gallantly, making the fight of its life.</P>
031.sgm:<P>As it comes in, it rushes around in a big circle, then plunges down, <HI REND="italics">zee, zee, zee, zee!</HI>
031.sgm: until the tired angler loses nearly all the line he has gained, and it is such a thread, this nine-strand affair, that great care must be taken, as the slightest mistake, the merest over-pressure of the thumb and it is gone, and the yellowtail sails away.  But your angler is a cautious fellow; he has fished before; he watches every move, and suddenly you see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>And the fish?  A noble fellow--silver belly newly polished in the ocean mint, clear as silver can be, tail and fins gold of California, and along the side a stripe of the same.  Its back is green in the water, but now is a blue deeper than that of the sea; the blue you see In some minerals, In the heart of an opal and in the blue heart of labradorite.  It is nearly four feet long, and weighs thirty-two pounds, yet nothing is thought of it. The angler slips back into his place and shouts congratulations to some other fisherman, as in the three quarters of an hour of play perhaps a dozen such fishes have been caught or brought to the gaff.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The fishing-ground is a delight in itself.  The air is cool, never sultry, and if one wishes wind, why, it is around the turn at Seal Rocks where the fresh inshore breeze, called by the desert, is driving in the scud and spume high on rock and sand.</P>
031.sgm:<P>So much for still fishing for the yellowtail; and if he is not in a responsive mood the boats move slowly along the rocky coast about fifty feet from shore in water as smooth as any inland lake (though you are twenty miles out in the Pacific), and you troll with about sixty feet of line out, and perhaps a heavier rod, say sixteen ounces.  The bait is a four-inch sardine, or a spoon, and sooner or later it is taken and the experience <illus entity="a031-0087" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">A Good Corner for Yellowtail</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The yellowtail is found as far north as Monterey, and where deep water sets inshore, as at Redondo and Portuguese Bend; it is caught, also in mid-channel. Schools may be found all along the coast where they are taken by the professional fisherman with his hand- lines and bone-gigs.  But the ideal rod-fishing is found in the lee of the channel islands, from San Diego and Coronado to Santa Barbara, where still waters and ideal conditions make the sport unique in the annals of rod-fishing for big game.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Yellowtail fishing at the islands continues all summer and up to December, and I have taken this fish at Avalon from the pier nearly every month in the year; but officially <HI REND="italics">Seriola</HI>
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031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter XXVIII</HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>The Climate of Southern California</P>
031.sgm:<P>INFORMATION regarding the climate of a locality is essential to the sportsman or traveller.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Aside from its fame as a sportsman s paradise Southern California has become noted as a health resort yet its peculiar climatic conditions are but little understood, as instance the party of otherwise intelligent people who, proposing to spend the winter in Southern California, packed away their winter clothing in New York and came to Los Angeles in a private car, garbed in muslins and duck and with wardrobes light enough for Samoa.</P>
031.sgm:<P>I was first impressed strongly in favor of Southern California by the remarks of a Southern Californian of wealth, who had no real estate to dispose of.  He told me that, obliged to seek a mild climate for a permanent residence, he began a tour of the world, making an extended, and, as he considered, an exhaustive series of researches, living in all the famous health resorts known, as the Azores, Madeira, the south of Italy, France, Spain, and Cairo, Florida, Colorado, and other States.</P>
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031.sgm:<P>In the course of time he reached Southern California, and after several years' trial selected the San Gabriel Valley as having the most perfect climate he could find in a civilised country for continuous residence.  My own home for twenty years has been but five miles distant from the ranch of this well-known and enterprising citizen, and, while I have not made extensive investigations abroad, I have in America, and am confident that his judgment is unbiased and his assumptions correct and logical.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The perfect climate, in all probability, does not exist, but I believe that parts of Southern California come nearer to it than any locality in the civilised world.  A locality cannot be adequately judged by a single year, as sortie seasons are wet, and some are dry; the real test is by the decade, or better by two.  Orange trees thirty years old bloom in my garden, giving the answer to the query as to the lack of extreme cold in that time.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The variety of climates in Southern California, their remarkable range, are the features which impress the new-comer, and are well illustrated in the following incident:  Some years ago, I published anonymously in a New York journal, the <HI REND="italics">Evening Post</HI>
031.sgm:, if I am not mistaken, a statement to the effect that the residents of Pasadena could pick oranges, bathe in the ocean with a temperature not much cooler than that of Newport in summer, and enjoy sleighing and snow-shoeing, all in one day. This extraordinary statement--from the Eastern standpoint--was regarded a joke by the press, and quoted as <illus entity="a031-0089" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Winter Flowers at Altadena, San Gabriel Valley</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The Pasadena Board of Trade several years later took the matter up and decided to show the world that it was not only a very simple thing to accomplish, but the tourist, sportsman or invalid could find in one day any altitude and climate from sea level to six thousand or even ten thousand feet; semitropic summer, and all the grades of climate and climatic variants up to snow-banks, and winter, drear and desolate.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The extreme altitude mentioned was on San Antonio and San Jacinto Mountains, snow-covered in winter, and reached from Los Angeles or Pasadena in a few hours; but the Board of Trade devoted itself to Pasadena. They appointed a committee of well-known citizens, and, with a photographer to illustrate their experiences, started one day in February, or mid-winter, to prove the story.  The town or city of Pasadena lies at the base of the Sierra Madre, which here rises abruptly to an altitude of six thousand feet, and at this time the peaks were white with snow down to the four thousand-foot level.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Extending up this mountain range in Rubio Ca&ntilde;on was a cable road, the Mount Lowe Railroad, that in a few moments carried the passengers from the base to the thirty-five-hundred-foot point, and while the committee was not dependent upon this mode of transportation, there being horse trails, they proposed to utilise it, and laid out an itinerary which covered every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Hundreds of square miles of mountains stretched away white with snow, and on distant peaks the wind was blowing snow banners into the air.  Here a sleigh met the party, and they were carried still higher up the mountain, amid huge snow-banks where with snow-shoes they walked about and enjoyed the novelty of snow balling.  At 1.30 P. M. they were again at the NcNally trout pool, in the land of summer, and at 3.30 P.M. we might have seen them, as did the photographer, bathing in the waters of the Pacific at Santa Monica, from which they steamed back to the orange groves of Pasadena, where late in the afternoon they assembled in the orange grove of one of the party and read the congratulatory telegrams of their feat.  In a few hours they had passed through various climates, from semitropic summer and ripening oranges, to the heart of winter, and altitudes from the sea level to over a mile above it, all attainable in half a day if desired, and in the most comfortable, indeed luxurious, fashion.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Few localities have so many singular conditions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>The impression has gone abroad that Southern California is a winter resort, with a burning summer, when in point of fact the shores of the Pacific from Santa Barbara to San Diego, and often miles inland, are remarkably cool in summer; the heat conditions which hold on the North Atlantic coast being unknown.  There are warm, often intensely hot, days in the interior towns and valleys in August and September, but the nights are almost always cool, and one of the objections some people have to Southern California is that one cannot dress in light clothing and sit out of doors every evening, as they are, as a rule, too cool.  As an illustration of San Gabriel Valley climate, I am writing these lines on August twenty-first in Pasadena, twenty-eight miles from the ocean, at noon.  My room faces the north, or the garden, and the windows and doors are open.  It is a warm day in Pasadena, but my room thermometer shows 70&deg;, and this has been the average for me all summer with few exceptions; later it becomes warmer for a few days, then cools off again; all of which leads me up to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>I have seen winters when it rained too much, I have seen five or six years when it did not rain enough.  I have seen long hot summers when the inland towns were extremely uncomfortable, but judging the country by the rule of general average, by five years, a decade, or two decades, it stands in my estimation without peer, as the nearest to the fabled perfect all around climate.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Southern California has all the advantages of the Riviera without any of its drawbacks, as the hot winds from Africa, its cold winds from the Italian Alps, and to-day it is the centre of high civilisation, radiating from Los Angeles, a city with a winter population of two hundred and fifty thousand souls, from which the pilgrim can in a few hours, as I have shown, reach almost any altitude from the snow line to the level of the sea.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It is difficult to describe the peculiar climate of Southern California, which is now, and always will be, the loadstone to attract thousands to its shores.  The entire country has been built up from a series of Spanish-Mexican ranches to an American principality in thirty years and is made up of the cream of the people of the East and Europe, who have come to California not all as pioneers or invalids, but in the main men and women <illus entity="a031-0090" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Winter Verdure in Southern California.</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>Southern California produces a semi-tropic vegetation as well as productions of the temperate zone, but it is far from being tropical.  This is not better illustrated than by saying that in winter Southern Californians dress as do Eastern people.  They wear winter clothing, and for two months or longer have furnace- and grate-fires, and are extremely uncomfortable if they do not.  They wear overcoats at night and when riding, yet at mid-day they often let the fires go out and throw open the doors and windows; indeed it is the cool nights that make the winter.</P>
031.sgm:<P>It seems very cold on these winter days to the newcomer, but just how cold it really is I leave the reader to realise when I say that in front of my house the heliotrope climbs to above the windows of the first story. This is protected by the eaves, and is on the south side of the house, yet in eight years it has never been touched by frost, though I have found ice in an Indian mortar near by in the early morning.  It feels cold and penetrating, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>I should call the climate of Southern California temperate, with a very small rainfall; a region with two summers: one cool, from December to April, another warmer, from April to December.  During the cool summer it rains on the average fifteen inches, about half the rainfall of Boston or New York.  The rain often falls at night.  The remainder of the year it does not rain, but the towns and cities are supplied with water, in pipes, from the mountains.  They turn this on lawns, and irrigate their ranches from the same source.</P>
031.sgm:<P>A climatic glimpse of the year may be given.  In November the skies are clear, or perhaps in October, and the weather is cool. Suddenly, long, slender masses of cloud appear along the mountain-side, coming from the south-east, and persist during the day.  They disappear, come again, and, after many trials, one night it begins to rain for the first time since May, or earlier. This initial rain may continue several days, mostly at night, or it may clear after a few hours.  If there has been a fall of two inches, or even one, an almost immediate change is noticed.  The air is free of dust, the trees are washed down, and all nature puts on a smiling face, and where the atmosphere has been hazy and <illus entity="a031-0091" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">A Redlands Orange Grove and Home in Winter</HI>
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031.sgm:<P>The so-called rainy season is now on, and if a normal one it should rain a day or two once in three or four weeks.  But sometimes the storm continues for a longer time, and there is a "wet winter," and it rains as much as it does in the East, or forty inches; but the average for Los Angeles may be said to be between fifteen and twenty inches per annum, or half that of the New York year, and the country appears to thrive better on it.  If rain fell in the summer the dry, cool climate would disappear.</P>
031.sgm:<P>In December or January, if the rain comes early, the country is soon a vast flower-garden, a field of the cloth of gold, ablaze on the upland slopes with the <HI REND="italics">Escholtzia</HI>
031.sgm: or so-called California poppy, while elsewhere gleam the painter's brush, the scarlet mimulus, the bluette, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>I can sit in my garden, amid roses and orange blossoms, and watch the snow blowing up the north slope of the former, forty miles away, and often the entire range is white with snow down to the twenty-five-hundred-foot line; but it will be gone on the lower range perhaps by noon, when the houses in the valley have thrown open doors and windows.  The snow on the high mountains gives a delightful tang to the air, and makes the nights cool; but the roses bloom on and on for ever, and the tomato ripens in protected valleys.  I hardly know to what to compare such a winter; possibly October in the East, when occasional frost comes, but there is no autumnal display in the lowlands, no masses of colour except in the ca&ntilde;ons; instead of dropping, leaves come out at Christmas.  The yule-tide wreaths are of Heteromeles berries which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>So pass the winter days.  The land is gay with tourists, and the now green golf-links of Santa Barbara, Coronado, Avalon, Los Angeles, Riverside, and Pasadena are filled with players; the mountain ca&ntilde;ons are picnic grounds, and there are trips to the coast, and sea-bathing; and the towns along-shore--Venice, Long Beach, Ocean Park, Terminal, Santa Monica, Avalon, Playa Del Ray, Coronado, Santa Barbara, and others are crowded with an array of visitors from all over the world, basking in the soft and balmy winds.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The rain-storms now due are often not storms at all, but gentle winds.  Again it blows heavily, and the rain that has been heralded off the Washington coast strikes Southern California as a south-easter; a south- east wind is an indication of rain. You are impressed by one feature in the winter that is sure and definite: you rarely have a day that some part of it is not available for an outing of some kind, and you have never passed a winter where there were so few rainy days.  It is life in the open, and an abundance of it; a life of sunshine. Sometimes there is a "norther" and the air is "stinging," yet the flowers do not complain, and the orange trees have never been killed down.</P>
031.sgm:<P>On these winter days the thermometer will read at mid-day from 65&deg; to 75&deg;.  On rainy days or during a storm it will read from 55&deg; to 65&deg;.  The rains are sup <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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031.sgm:<P>Every season has its floral host, and from May to July a signal blazes on the mountain-sides, tall stalks shooting up here and there like magic, the splendid ethereal bloom of the yucca, the "candlestick of the Lord," an angelus of the eternal slopes, the clang of whose bells is incense.</P>
031.sgm:<P>A strong breeze now blows regularly from the ocean, erroneously called the "trade wind," stopping at night to blow from the mountains, bringing a suggestion of saline <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>373</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>When days of excessive heat come, the wind is from the desert and it is dry, not dangerous; and during it the death rate of a large city like Los Angeles, with over two hundred thousand inhabitants, will not veer from normal, while a hot "wave" in the East will strike down hundreds, children and adults.  This refers to the interior towns twenty or thirty miles from the sea, as Pasadena.  Those nearer the desert are much hotter, but in all these places the nights are cool, and on the hottest days the man who stands under a tree will soon move into the sun to "cool off."  In a word, in the East and South the air becomes heated and the interior of a house is nearly as warm as out of doors, but in Southern California summers the normal air remains cool; it is constantly coming from the sea and does not become heated in the Eastern sense; hence those who understand the country open up their houses early in the morning on very warm days, allow the clear night air to percolate through them, and at nine o'clock close the house, shutting out the heat, keeping the temperature at 70&deg; or below 75&deg; until three or four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>At the seashore, the towns from Santa Barbara to Coronado, days so hot as to be a menace to comfort are extremely rare.  The summer fog that is almost always to be seen off the coast, a high fog, is the balance wheel giving cool days.  It comes in at night and rarely remains after sunrise, passing off leaving the grass dripping with moisture, often depositing one one-hundredth of an inch of water; the air is crisp and delicious.  This fog, common to all the coast, is always welcome and is in no sense a menace to health, this being the consensus of opinion among leading physicians.  Dr. John M. Radebaugh, who has lived twenty-five years in Pasadena, considers this region preeminent in America as a health resort; indeed the fog is regarded as a benefit to the land and its people.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The old resident in California will, as a rule, tell the new-comer that he knows nothing about the climate, and that all signs, especially the "rain signs," fail; yet there are certain facts relating to the climate that are definitely known.  Perhaps the most conspicuous feature in the country is the constant cool west wind that blows all day, in fact everywhere in California, but south of Point Conception it loses some of its force and is a pleasant wind that makes Southern California summer climate what it is.  It begins in the morning from eight to nine o'clock, increases in force until three or so, and then begins to wane; always steady, blowing under clear <illus entity="a031-0092" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Pasadena's Varied Climates.</HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>375</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Each day, then, in summer, Southern California has two distinct and opposite winds: one from the ocean, and one at night from the mountains and vast arid region which surrounds the land to the east, a rare combination that cannot but have its effect as a vigorous and health-giving tonic.  In twenty years I have seen but two gales which were alarming to some people in the San Gabriel Valley, and neither one equalled the heavy north-easters I have known on the Atlantic coast and the furious wind squalls of the intercontinental region.  Hurricanes and cyclones are unknown in Southern California.  Four or five years will pass without a thunder-storm, and the town of Pasadena has been struck by lightning but twice to my knowledge in twenty years. These phenomena are not a part of the normal conditions of things; they are the rare exceptions.</P>
031.sgm:<P>There is a feature of the Pacific coast that many writers and authors credit with having a decided influence upon the climate of the Pacific coast.  This is the so-called Black Current of Japan, the <HI REND="italics">Kuro Shiwo</HI>
031.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>376</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>"The prevailing easterly drift of the atmosphere in temperate latitudes, causing the well-known winds from the west, is one of the prime factors in modifying the climate of the coast of California.  This coast line, stretching for 10 degrees of latitude, is subjected to a steady indraft of air from the west.  In this movement, together with the fact that to the west is the great Pacific Ocean, lies the secret of the difference in temperatures between the Atlantic and the Pacific coasts at places of like latitude. For some years there has been an impression that the milder climate of the Pacific coast was due to a warming influence of the <HI REND="italics">Kuro Shiwo</HI>
031.sgm:, or Japan current.  No reliable data exist to support such a belief, and it is quite unlikely that the Japan current <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>377</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>The cause of rains--why some reach Southern California and others pass east in the latitude of Oregon or San Francisco, and why it does not rain in Southern California from May to November  is often a puzzle to the stranger.  Very briefly, the facts are as follows: What is known to meteorologists as the North Pacific cyclone belt is an important factor in producing storms in Southern California, which are cyclonic disturbances that rise or are created far to the west on the great Japanese current.  The North Pacific cyclone belt, influenced by the sun, moves north in summer and follows the sun south in winter; hence in summer it is well north, and the storms which come in from the Pacific pass east without coming below San Francisco; but as winter approaches and the sun retreats to the south the cyclone belt comes farther south, and passing storms impinge on Southern California; singularly enough, coming from the south-east or east, cloud banks creeping along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>378</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Professor McAdie traced one of these storms by means of the logs of passing vessels.  It began off the east coast of the Philippines, latitude 15&deg;, longitude 150&deg; west, Nov. 20th, moving due west to about latitude 20&deg;, longitude 130&deg; west.  On the 9th of December the storm was off Japan in latitude 39&deg; (approximately), longitude 150&deg; west.  It now turned south-east, and on the 11th of December made a complete turn or loop in four days; then passed east along the 30th parallel, where on the 23d of December it began another loop north of the Hawaiian Islands, and on January 3d again moving east and north-east, reaching on the 8th 45&deg; north latitude 145&deg; east longitude. ù Here it divided; one part went to the north-east, reaching land about 50&deg; north latitude on the 12th of January, while another branch went south, then north-east, entering Northern California at latitude 43&deg; on the 12th of January, then sweeping down across the State, reaching the latitude of Los Angeles, but to the east, on the 13th of January.</P>
031.sgm:<P>This storm took a month to pass from near the Philippines to the latitude of the Hawaiian Islands, and thirteen days, or about two weeks, more to reach Los Angeles, where, doubtless, it appeared as a rain-storm coming from a totally different direction,--the south-east. This storm is accurately charted in Chart No. XII. <illus entity="a031-0093" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="bold">Pasadena's Varied Climates </HI>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>379</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:in the <HI REND="italics">Report of the Climatology of California</HI>
031.sgm:<P>The rainfall of Southern California for a number of years is shown in the following table, which tells the story of minimum dampness and malarial conditions, and a maximum number of sunshiny days in the year.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Rainfall in Los Angeles:</P>
031.sgm:<P>1878<HSEP>20.86<HSEP>1891<HSEP>12.84</P>
031.sgm:<P>1879<HSEP>17.41<HSEP>1892<HSEP>18.72</P>
031.sgm:<P>1880<HSEP>18.65<HSEP>1893<HSEP>21.96</P>
031.sgm:<P>1881<HSEP>5.53<HSEP>1894<HSEP>7.51</P>
031.sgm:<P>1882<HSEP>10.74<HSEP>1895<HSEP>12.55</P>
031.sgm:<P>1883<HSEP>14.14<HSEP>1896<HSEP>11.80</P>
031.sgm:<P>1884<HSEP>40.39<HSEP>1897<HSEP>14.28</P>
031.sgm:<P>1885<HSEP>10.69<HSEP>1898<HSEP>4.83</P>
031.sgm:<P>1886<HSEP>17.20<HSEP>1899<HSEP>8.69</P>
031.sgm:<P>1887<HSEP>16.27<HSEP>1900<HSEP>11.30</P>
031.sgm:<P>1888<HSEP>21.04<HSEP>1901<HSEP>11.96</P>
031.sgm:<P>1889<HSEP>33.31<HSEP>1902<HSEP>13.12</P>
031.sgm:<P>1890<HSEP>12.69<HSEP>1903<HSEP>14.77</P>
031.sgm:<P>It is not intended here to give an elaborate statement of the climatic conditions, but to present in as few words as possible the reasons for the various climatic phenomena that are so conspicuous in Southern California, and to answer some of the questions that are often propounded by visitors and sportsmen who are spending the season in the State.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Southern California is not a winter resort alone. True, it has climatic attractions at this season that are superior to any in Europe, but to the sportsman who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>380</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>381</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<DIV> <HEAD>Appendices</HEAD>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>383</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<HEAD>Appendices<LB>Los Angeles<LB></HEAD>
031.sgm:<P>Population, 250,000,  Annual mean temperature for twenty years, 62&deg;.<ANCHOR ID="na-11">*</ANCHOR>
031.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-11">These references to the climate of Southern California towns and cities are compiled from the reports of Professor McAdie of the U. S. Weather Bureau of San Francisco.</NOTE>
031.sgm:<P>San Diego and Coronado<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>Average daily change of temperature, 2&deg;.  Extremes in thirty years, 101&deg; and 32&deg;.  Temperature has exceeded 90&deg; but nineteen times in thirty years.  Four frosts have occurred in that time.  Annual mean, 61.4&deg;.  In 9496 days there were 9181 days of temperature not above 80&deg;, nor below 40&deg;,  Average humidity for January, 74.9; for August, 85.4.  Average number of rainy days per annum, 41, Annual rainfall, 9.52 inches.  Average yearly thunder-storms in eleven years, 1.</P>
031.sgm:<P>This also relates to Coronado. Professor McAdie says:" The climate of Coronado is substantially that of San Diego.  The differences are slight."  The climatic conditions of these places are remarkable for minimum lack of change day by day, throughout the year.  Coronado temperature average for the year, 61.7.  Average daily range, 13.8.  Average number of days clear, 239; partly cloudy, 70; cloudy, 56; fog, 18 ; rainy, 42.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Riverside<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>851 feet above level of sea; mean annual rainfall, 10 inches.  Mean annual temperature for 19 years, 62.9.  January, 51.1; August, 76.4.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Riverside is famous for its oranges and well-nigh perfect winter climate. The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>384</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Redlands<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>1,352 feet above sea.  Annual average temperature, 64&deg;.  Relative humidity low.  Annual rainfall (12 years), 14.70 inches.  Winters mild and beautiful. Grand mountain scenery, snow-capped mountains.  Summers warmer than Los Angeles; heat dry, but not menace to health anywhere in the state.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Pasadena<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>Stands at head of San Gabriel Valley.  Altitude 828 feet; 25 miles from ocean. Indiana colony selected locality for town site after examining all Southern California.  Nine miles from Los Angeles, second city in Southern California.  Annual average rainfall, 13 inches.  Mean temperature, 59.8; maximum, 85.8; minimum, 39.2.  Mean for January, 56.2; mean for August, 70.6.</P>
031.sgm:<P>COMPARATIVE AVERAGE TEMPERATURES AT CELEBRATED RESORTS WITH PASADENA AS A TYPE OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA INLAND CLIMATE.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Difference, PLACE.<HSEP>Winter.<HSEP>Spring.<HSEP>Summer.<HSEP>Autumn.<HSEP>Summer and Winter.</P>
031.sgm:<P>PASADENA<HSEP>56.00<HSEP>61.07<HSEP>67.61<HSEP>62.31<HSEP>11.61</P>
031.sgm:<P>Funchal, Madeira<HSEP>62.88<HSEP>64.55<HSEP>70.89<HSEP>70.19<HSEP>8.10</P>
031.sgm:<P>St. Michael, Azores<HSEP>57.83<HSEP>61.17<HSEP>68.33<HSEP>62.33<HSEP>10.50</P>
031.sgm:<P>Santa Cruz, Canaries<HSEP>64.65<HSEP>68.87<HSEP>76.68<HSEP>74.17<HSEP>12.03</P>
031.sgm:<P>Nassau, Bahama Islands<HSEP>70.67<HSEP>77.67<HSEP>86.00<HSEP>80.33<HSEP>15.33</P>
031.sgm:<P>Cadiz, Spain<HSEP>52.90<HSEP>59.93<HSEP>70.43<HSEP>65.35<HSEP>17.53</P>
031.sgm:<P>Lisbon, Portugal<HSEP>53.00<HSEP>60.00<HSEP>71.00<HSEP>62.00<HSEP>18.00</P>
031.sgm:<P>Malta<HSEP>57.46<HSEP>62.76<HSEP>78.20<HSEP>71.03<HSEP>20.74</P>
031.sgm:<P>Algiers<HSEP>55.00<HSEP>66.00<HSEP>77.00<HSEP>60.00<HSEP>22.00</P>
031.sgm:<P>St. Augustine, Florida<HSEP>58.25<HSEP>68.69<HSEP>80.36<HSEP>71.90<HSEP>22.11</P>
031.sgm:<P>Rome, Italy<HSEP>48.90<HSEP>57.65<HSEP>72.16<HSEP>63.96<HSEP>23.26</P>
031.sgm:<P>Sacramento, California<HSEP>47.92<HSEP>59.17<HSEP>71.19<HSEP>61.72<HSEP>23.27</P>
031.sgm:<P>Mentone<HSEP>49.50<HSEP>60.00<HSEP>73.00<HSEP>56.60<HSEP>23.50</P>
031.sgm:<P>Nice, France<HSEP>47.88<HSEP>56.23<HSEP>72.26<HSEP>61.63<HSEP>24.44</P>
031.sgm:<P>New Orleans, Louisiana<HSEP>56.00<HSEP>69.37<HSEP>81.08<HSEP>69.80<HSEP>25.08</P>
031.sgm:<P>Cairo, Egypt<HSEP>58.52<HSEP>73.58<HSEP>85.10<HSEP>71.48<HSEP>26.58</P>
031.sgm:<P>Jacksonville, Florida<HSEP>55.02<HSEP>68.88<HSEP>81.93<HSEP>62.54<HSEP>26.91</P>
031.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>Like nearly all the seashore towns of Southern California, Santa Barbara has a remarkably perfect climate.  It stands on the shore, backed by the Santa Ynez range, protected by the Santa Barbara Islands.   The temperature of winter and spring months approximates 56&deg;, summer and fall 63&deg;.  The annual mean <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>385</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Santa Monica<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>Santa Monica, Redondo, San Buenaventura, Long Beach, Terminal, San Pedro, Ocean Park, Venice, Playa Del Rey, Newport, Huntington Beach, Naples, San Juan, La Jolla, Carlsbad, Alamitos, Laguna, and others are seaside resorts which have cool summers and warm winters--ideal conditions.  None have government weather stations, but they vary but little from Santa Barbara as regards extremes of temperature, and the rainfall is about the same.</P>
031.sgm:<P>San Bernardino<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>San Bernardino and Colton have about the same conditions of Redlands and Riverside.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Santa Ana</P>
031.sgm:<P>The climatic conditions of Santa Ana, Tustin, orange, El Toro, Whittier, San. Juan Capistrano, and other towns of this region are very similar to those of Los Angeles.  Nearly all are connected by a network of electric roads, and easily reached from Los Angeles.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Insular Climate of Southern California<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>The record of a year (1905) at Avalon, Santa Catalina Island, Los Angeles County, California, illustrating the remarkable uniformity of climate and lack of decided change between summer and winter in a climate by no means tropical.</P>
031.sgm:<P>TEMP. AIR<HSEP>TEMP. WATER<HSEP>TEMP. AIR<HSEP>TEMP. WATER</P>
031.sgm:<P>2.00 P.M.<HSEP>4.00 P.M.<HSEP>2.00 P.M.<HSEP>4.00 P.M.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Jan.<HSEP>1<HSEP>62<HSEP>63<HSEP>Jan. 13<HSEP>60<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>62<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>63<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>62<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>63<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>62<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>60<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>62<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>61<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>62<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>60<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>62<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>60<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>63<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>61<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>63<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>63<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>62<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>59<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>62<HSEP>60<HSEP>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>63<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>59<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>63<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>386</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>TEMP. AIR<HSEP>TEMP. WATER<HSEP>TEMP. AIR<HSEP>TEMP. WATER</P>
031.sgm:<P>2.00 P.M.<HSEP>4.00 P.M.<HSEP>2.00 P.M.<HSEP>4.00 P.M.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Jan. 25<HSEP>65<HSEP>65<HSEP>Mar. 11<HSEP>64<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>62<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>62<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>62<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>65<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>61<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>63<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>61<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>62<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>61<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>61<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>31<HSEP>53<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>61<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>Feb.<HSEP>1<HSEP>62<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>61<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>53<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>66<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>63<HSEP>62<HSEP>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>66<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>61<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>61<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>60<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>61<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>59<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>63<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>63<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>64<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>63<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>64<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>59<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>64<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>62<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>62<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>62<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>63<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>57<HSEP>69<HSEP>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>62<HSEP>62 "<HSEP>13<HSEP>58<HSEP>62<HSEP>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>58<HSEP>67</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>64<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>31<HSEP>64<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>61<HSEP>62<HSEP>Apr.<HSEP>1<HSEP>62<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>63<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>61<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>62<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>63<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>61<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>60<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>62<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>62<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>62<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>60<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>65<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>61<HSEP>60</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>70<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>61<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>63<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>61<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>60<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>61<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>60<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>60<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>63<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>62<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>63<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>64<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>63<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>62<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<P>Mar.<HSEP>1<HSEP>65<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>64<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>72<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>63<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>68<HSEP>70<HSEP>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>62<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>60<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>65<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>63<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>64<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>63<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>65<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>64<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>61<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>64<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>66<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>64<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>66<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>64<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>66<HSEP>65</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>387</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>TEMP. AIR<HSEP>TEMP. WATER<HSEP>TEMP. AIR<HSEP>TEMP. WATER 2.00 P.M.<HSEP>4.00 P.M.<HSEP>2.00 P.M.<HSEP>4.00 P.M.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Apr. 25<HSEP>63<HSEP>64<HSEP>June<HSEP>9<HSEP>65<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>62<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>64<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>62<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>73<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>64<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>66<HSEP>71</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>62<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>67<HSEP>71</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>66<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>64<HSEP>76</P>
031.sgm:<P>May 1<HSEP>64<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>63<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>63<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>63<HSEP>71</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>63<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>66<HSEP>66</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>62<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>64<HSEP>67</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>66<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>64<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>65<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>67<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>62<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>66<HSEP>70</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>62<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>65<HSEP>68</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>62<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>63<HSEP>70</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>66<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>67<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>64<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>64<HSEP>70</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>61<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>66<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>62<HSEP>68<HSEP>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>66<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>68<HSEP>68<HSEP>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>66<HSEP>70</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>70<HSEP>69<HSEP>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>65<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>65<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>65<HSEP>71</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>62<HSEP>68<HSEP>July<HSEP>1<HSEP>66<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>67<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>68<HSEP>71</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>64<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>68<HSEP>70</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>64<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>68<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>60<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>67<HSEP>73</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>64<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>68<HSEP>71</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>67<HSEP>68<HSEP>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>68<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>68<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>69<HSEP>73</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>64<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>70<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>64<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>70<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>65<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>69<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>62<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>70<HSEP>73</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>64<HSEP>69<HSEP>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>70<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>65<HSEP>70<HSEP>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>68<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>31<HSEP>66<HSEP>68<HSEP>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>69<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>June 1<HSEP>67<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>69<HSEP>73</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>66<HSEP>68<HSEP>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>69<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>66<HSEP>68<HSEP>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>68<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>66<HSEP>69<HSEP>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>68<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>66<HSEP>62<HSEP>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>68<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>68<HSEP>69<HSEP>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>65<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>65<HSEP>68<HSEP>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>68<HSEP>76</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>67<HSEP>69<HSEP>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>67<HSEP>73</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>388</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>TEMP. AIR<HSEP>TEMP. WATER<HSEP>TEMP. AIR<HSEP>TEMP. WATER</P>
031.sgm:<P>2.00 P.M.<HSEP>4.00 P.M.<HSEP>2.00 P.M.<HSEP>4.00 P.M.</P>
031.sgm:<P>July 24<HSEP>72<HSEP>72<HSEP>Sept.<HSEP>7<HSEP>72<HSEP>73</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>65<HSEP>73<HSEP>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>72<HSEP>76</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>66<HSEP>73<HSEP>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>69<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>66<HSEP>72<HSEP>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>67<HSEP>73</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>66<HSEP>71<HSEP>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>67<HSEP>73</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>67<HSEP>72<HSEP>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>70<HSEP>76 "<HSEP>30<HSEP>68<HSEP>72<HSEP>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>71<HSEP>76</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>31<HSEP>66<HSEP>72<HSEP>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>71<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>Aug. 1<HSEP>68<HSEP>72<HSEP>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>70<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>66<HSEP>70<HSEP>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>70<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>67<HSEP>72<HSEP>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>70<HSEP>74</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>66<HSEP>71<HSEP>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>70<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>68<HSEP>71<HSEP>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>70<HSEP>75</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>68<HSEP>72<HSEP>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>70<HSEP>75</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>67<HSEP>73<HSEP>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>71<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>70<HSEP>72<HSEP>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>71<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>67<HSEP>76<HSEP>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>71<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>67<HSEP>76<HSEP>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>71<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>67<HSEP>76<HSEP>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>67<HSEP>70</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>68<HSEP>71<HSEP>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>67<HSEP>70</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>68<HSEP>73<HSEP>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>70<HSEP>7a</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>67<HSEP>71<HSEP>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>72<HSEP>73</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>66<HSEP>73<HSEP>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>81<HSEP>73</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>66<HSEP>73<HSEP>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>73<HSEP>71</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>67<HSEP>72<HSEP>Oct.<HSEP>1<HSEP>73<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>69<HSEP>71<HSEP>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>72<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>71<HSEP>72<HSEP>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>73<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>68<HSEP>72<HSEP>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>70<HSEP>71</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>68<HSEP>71<HSEP>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>71<HSEP>71 1/2</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>69<HSEP>71<HSEP>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>67 1/2<HSEP>71</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>64<HSEP>73<HSEP>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>67<HSEP>72</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>67<HSEP>73<HSEP>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>69<HSEP>71</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>69<HSEP>73<HSEP>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>72<HSEP>70</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>69<HSEP>74<HSEP>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>69<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>72<HSEP>74<HSEP>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>68<HSEP>70</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>74<HSEP>75<HSEP>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>66<HSEP>6g</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>74<HSEP>76<HSEP>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>65<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>72<HSEP>74<HSEP>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>66 1/2<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>31<HSEP>72<HSEP>76<HSEP>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>66<HSEP>68</P>
031.sgm:<P>Sept. 1<HSEP>72<HSEP>75<HSEP>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>66<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>72<HSEP>75<HSEP>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>65<HSEP>68</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>71<HSEP>75<HSEP>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>64<HSEP>68</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>71<HSEP>75<HSEP>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>64<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>71<HSEP>75<HSEP>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>65<HSEP>69</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>71<HSEP>73<HSEP>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>389</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>TEMP. AIR<HSEP>TEMP. WATER<HSEP>TEMP. AIR<HSEP>TEMP. WATER</P>
031.sgm:<P>2.00 P.M.<HSEP>4.00 P.M.<HSEP>2.00 P.M.<HSEP>4.00 P.M.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Oct. 22<HSEP>65<HSEP>68<HSEP>Nov.<HSEP>27<HSEP>58<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>62<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>64<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>64<HSEP>69<HSEP>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>56<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>67<HSEP>69<HSEP>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>61<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>58<HSEP>68<HSEP>Dec.<HSEP>1<HSEP>56<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>63<HSEP>69<HSEP>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>60<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>58<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>64<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>62<HSEP>69<HSEP>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>59<HSEP>64</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>58<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>60<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>31<HSEP>63<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>61<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>Nov. 1<HSEP>62<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>63<HSEP>63 1/2</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>2<HSEP>64<HSEP>68<HSEP>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>62<HSEP>61</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>62<HSEP>68<HSEP>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>63<HSEP>62 "<HSEP>4<HSEP>65<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>63<HSEP>61</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>56<HSEP><HSEP>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>60<HSEP>61</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>60<HSEP><HSEP>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>61<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>7<HSEP>54<HSEP>61<HSEP>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>61<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>67<HSEP>68<HSEP>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>60<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>64<HSEP>66 1/2<HSEP>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>56(cold wave)<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>62<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>60<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>63<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>58<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>61<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>60<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>61<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>58<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>14<HSEP>63<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>56<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>66<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>56<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>63<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>55<HSEP>61</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>62<HSEP>67<HSEP>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>54 (cold wave) 63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>62<HSEP>66<HSEP>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>51<HSEP>"<HSEP>60</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>19<HSEP>61<HSEP>65 1/2<HSEP>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>55<HSEP>"<HSEP>61</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>20<HSEP>62<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>60<HSEP>"<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>21<HSEP>53<HSEP>65<HSEP>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>63</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>61<HSEP>62<HSEP>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>54<HSEP>"<HSEP>62</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>23<HSEP>60<HSEP>63<HSEP>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>56<HSEP>"<HSEP>61</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>63<HSEP>62<HSEP>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>54<HSEP>"<HSEP>61</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>61<HSEP>64<HSEP>"<HSEP>31<HSEP>52<HSEP>"<HSEP>58</P>
031.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>26<HSEP>63<HSEP>65<HSEP>"</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>390</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>R&eacute;sum&eacute;<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>The remarkable features of the <HI REND="italics">insular</HI>
031.sgm:<P>California State Game and Fish Laws--Open Season<LB>1905-1906--For Closed Season Reverse the Dates</P>
031.sgm:<P>BAG LIMIT</P>
031.sgm:<P>Quail, rail, grouse, snipe, curlew, ibis, plover, doves--25 in one day.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Ducks--50 in one day.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Deer, male--2 in one season.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Deer--August 1st to October 15th.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Doves--July 1st to February 15th.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Mountain quail, grouse, sage hen--September 1st to February 15th.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Valley quail, ducks, ibis, curlew, plover, rail--October 15th to February 15th. Snipe--October 15th to April 1st.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Trout--April 1st to November 1st.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Steelhead Trout--October 16th to February 1st. April 1st to September 10th. Two seasons. Salmon--October 16th to September 10th.  Above tide water close season extends to November 15th.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Lobster or crawfish--(Not less than 9 1/2 in, long)--September 15th to April 1st.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Black bass--June 1st to January 1st.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Crab--(No crab taken less than 6 in. across the back)--November 1st to September 1st.</P>
031.sgm:<P>N.B.--In some counties the open seasons are shorter.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Fine for violation of game laws--$25 to $500 and imprisonment.  Fine for violation of fish laws--$20 to $500 and imprisonment.  Smallest fine for using explosives to take any kind of fish--$250 and imprisonment.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>391</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Los Angeles County Game Laws--Changes Made<LB>by County Ordinances in Open Seasons</P>
031.sgm:<P>Deer: August 15 to October 1,</P>
031.sgm:<P>Doves: August 15 (only one day).</P>
031.sgm:<P>Mountain quail: September 1 to October 15.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Valley quail: October 15 to February 1,</P>
031.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara County<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>Deer: August 1 to September 1.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Riverside County<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>Deer: August 1 to September 15.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Mountain trout: May 1 to July 1.</P>
031.sgm:<P>San Bernadino County</P>
031.sgm:<P>Doves: September 15 (only one day).</P>
031.sgm:<P>Mountain quail: September 1 to October 15.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Valley quail: October 15 to February 1.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Trout: May 15 to November 1.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Oceanic Game Fishes in Season<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>Tuna (summer months best)--June, July.  Black sea bass--June to November.  White sea bass--April to November.  Yellowtail--March to December. Sheepshead, albacore, bonito, rock bass, whitefish--all the year.  Barracuda-June to September.  Sword-fish--June to September.  Surf-fish, yellowfin--all the year.</P>
031.sgm:<P>LIST OF OCEANIC GAME FISHES</P>
031.sgm:<P>taken with rod and reel in Southern California waters and maximum, weights:</P>
031.sgm:<P>Leaping tuna ( <HI REND="italics">Thunnus thynnus</HI>
031.sgm: ), 250 lbs.  Black sea bass ( <HI REND="italics">Stereolepis gigas</HI>
031.sgm: ), 429 lbs.  Whitefish ( <HI REND="italics">Caulolalitus princeps</HI>
031.sgm: ), 15 lbs.  Yellowtail ( <HI REND="italics">Seriolo dorsalis</HI>
031.sgm: ), 50 lbs.  White sea bass ( <HI REND="italics">Cynoscion nobilis</HI>
031.sgm: ), 80 lbs.  Albacore ( <HI REND="italics">Gernio alalunga</HI>
031.sgm: ), 17 lbs.  Yellowfin,  albacore ( <HI REND="italics">Germo macropterus</HI>
031.sgm: ),  50 lbs.  Bonito ( <HI REND="italics">Sarda chiliensis</HI>
031.sgm: ), 20 lbs.  Sheepshead ( <HI REND="italics">Pimelometopon pulcher</HI>
031.sgm: ), 20 lbs.  Barracuda ( <HI REND="italics">Sphyraena argentea</HI>
031.sgm: ),  15 lbs.  Sea trout ( <HI REND="italics">Cynoscion parvipinnis</HI>
031.sgm: ), 6 to  10 lbs.  Striped bass ( <HI REND="italics">Roccus linneatus</HI>
031.sgm: ),<ANCHOR ID="n24-1-2">*</ANCHOR>
031.sgm: 30 lbs.  Montery Spanish mackerel ( <HI REND="italics">Scomberomorus concolor</HI>
031.sgm: ),  10 lbs.  Pez de gallo ( <HI REND="italics">Nematistius pectoralis</HI>
031.sgm: ), 60 lbs.  Common sword-fish ( <HI REND="italics">Xihias gladius</HI>
031.sgm: ), 200 lbs.  Short-sword sword-fish ( <HI REND="italics">Tetrapturus</HI>
031.sgm: ), 150 lbs.  Halibut ( <HI REND="italics">Paralichthys californicus</HI>
031.sgm: ), 30 lbs.  Mackerel ( <HI REND="italics">Scomber japonicus</HI>
031.sgm: ), 6 lbs.  Black rockfish ( <HI REND="italics">Sebastodes mystinus</HI>
031.sgm: ), 6 lbs.  Orange <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>392</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:rockfish ( <HI REND="italics">S. pinniger</HI>
031.sgm: ), 10 lbs.  Yellow rockfish ( <HI REND="italics">S. miniatus</HI>
031.sgm: ), 8 lbs.  Red rockfish ( <HI REND="italics">S. ruberrimus</HI>
031.sgm: ), 10 lbs., 2 1/2 feet long.  Yellow-tailed rockfish ( <HI REND="italics">S. flovidus</HI>
031.sgm: ).  Blue-mouth cod ( <HI REND="italics">Ophidion elongatus</HI>
031.sgm: ), 40 lbs.  Blue perch ( <HI REND="italics">Medialuna californiensis</HI>
031.sgm: ),  5 lbs.  Rock bass ( <HI REND="italics">Paralabrax clathratus</HI>
031.sgm: ), 12 lbs.  Spotted Cabrilla ( <HI REND="italics">Fonnyverde</HI>
031.sgm: ), 5 lbs.  Opah, 50 lbs. (rare). Oceanic bonito, ( <HI REND="italics">Gymnosarda pelagmis</HI>
031.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-1-2">The striped bass has just begun to appear in Southern California waters, and was introduced at San Francisco.</NOTE>
031.sgm:<P>The Lacey Act, Passed by Congress May 25, 1900<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>Prohibits interstate traffic in birds and game killed in violation of State law, regulates the importation of foreign birds and animals, and prohibits absolutely the introduction of certain injurious species; also makes it unlawful to ship from one State to another game killed or captured in violation of local laws, and which require all packages containing animals or birds to be plainly marked so the name and address of the shipper and the nature of the contents may be ascertained by inspection of the outside of such packages.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The act also prohibits interstate commerce in game killed in open seasons, if the laws of the State in which such game is killed prohibit such export.  In referring to these provisions of the act, the House Committee on Interstate Commerce reported as follows:</P>
031.sgm:<P>"The killing or carrying of game within the limits of a State is a matter wholly within the jurisdiction of the State, but when the fruits of the violation of State law are carried beyond the State, the nation alone has the power to forbid the transit and to punish those engaged in the traffic.  The bill will give the game wardens the very power that they now lack and which will be the most effective for the purpose of breaking up this commerce.  . . . In some of the States the sale of certain game is forbidden at all seasons without regard to the place where the same was killed.  The purpose of these laws is to prevent the sale of game shipped into the State from being used as a cloak for the sale of game killed within the State in violation of the local laws."</P>
031.sgm:<P>What Is Always Unlawful<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>To buy. sell, barter or trade, at any time, any quail, pheasant, grouse, sage hen, rail, ibis, doves, plover, snipe, or any deer meat or deer skin.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To have in possession doe or fawn skins.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To take or kill, at any time, does, fawns, elk, antelope or mountain sheep. To take or kill pheasants, or bob-white quail, or tree squirrels.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To run deer with dogs during closed season.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To shoot half hour before sunrise, or half hour after sunset.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To trap game of any kind without first having procured written authority from the Board of Fish Commissioners.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To take or destroy nests or eggs of any birds,</P>
031.sgm:<P>To ship game or fish in concealed packages, or without your name and address. To buy or sell trout less than one pound in weight.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To take, at any time, sturgeon, or female crabs.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To take abalones less than 15 inches in circumference.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>393</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>To take trout or black bass, except with hook and line.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To take salmon, shad or striped bass with a net less than 71/2-inch mesh.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To fish with boat and net without a license.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To fish for salmon with nets Saturday and Sunday.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To use a set-net.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To take fish, in any manner, within 50 feet of a fishway.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To take, buy or sell striped bass less than three pounds in weight. To shoot meadow-larks or other song birds.</P>
031.sgm:<P>To shoot on enclosed land without permission.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Southern California U. S. Forest Reserve Rules<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>No firearms are allowed in the Santa Barbara, San Gabriel, San Bernardino, San Jacinto or Trabuco Canyon Reserves except under a permit issued by the Forest Supervisor in charge.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Shotguns are entirely excluded from the San Gabriel and San Bernardino Reserves.  No permits are issued to minors in these two reserves.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Permits are issued at any time, and are good to the end of the calendar year in which they were issued.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The following conditions are printed on permits:</P>
031.sgm:<P>(1.)  Carry the permit whenever in the reserve with guns.</P>
031.sgm:<P>(2.)  Submit cheerfully to inspection of permit and gun.</P>
031.sgm:<P>(3.)  Will not mutilate live timber or any other property.</P>
031.sgm:<P>(4.)  Observe the game laws.</P>
031.sgm:<P>(5.)  Extinguish fires before leaving the camp.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Those desiring permits in Santa Barbara County should address B. F. Crawshaw, Forest Supervisor, Santa Barbara. In Ventura County, William M. Slosson, Forest Supervisor, Nordhoff, Cal.  In Los Angeles and San Bernardino Counties, address Everett B. Thomas, Forest Supervisor, Los Angeles, Cal.  In Riverside County, W. C. Bartlett, Forest Supervisor. San Jacinto, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>The attention of the public is called to the danger of leaving camp-fires burning.  Fires are not allowed to be built unless a space of five feet is cleared around the fire.  No fires are allowed closer than twenty feet to a hillside.  The penalty for leaving fires burning is $1000 fine or one year's imprisonment.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Fire-crackers and fire-works are not permitted in the reserves.  Forest rangers act as game-wardens.</P>
031.sgm:<P>For further information call at the office of Forest Supervisor, Everett B. Thomas, Room 103 Potomac Building, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>List of Clubs in Southern California Organised<LB>for Hunting and Fishing and Golf.<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>BOLSA CHICA GUN CLUB.--Count Jaro von Schmidt, President, No. 1 Chester Place, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>CERRITOS GUN CLUB.--Rob. E. Ross, Secretary, California Club, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>394</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>DEL REY CLUB.--W. H. Stimson, Secretary, Stimson Block, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>LA PATERA GUN CLUB.--Louis C. Larson, Secretary, Goleta, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>TUNA CLUB.--Avalon, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>SANTIAGO HUNTING CLUB.--N. N. Brown, Secretary, Santa Ana, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>RECREATION GUN CLUB.--J. Frankenfield, Secretary, 1007 South Hill Street, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>LAGUNA GUN CLUB.--J. A. Graves, Secretary, Baker Block, Los Angeles, California.</P>
031.sgm:<P>LOMITA GUN CLUB.--Dr. O. P. Roller, Secretary, 221 1/2 South Spring Street, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>SANTA PAULA GUN CLUB.--A. W. Elliott, Secretary, Santa Paula, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>UPLAND GUN CLUB.--A. G. Allen, Secretary, Upland, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>SHERIFFS' CLUB.--F. H. Brakesuhler, Secretary, Court House, Los Anles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>BLUE WING DUCK CLUB.--C. Van Valkenburg, Secretary, California Bank Building, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>SANTA MONICA GUN CLUB.--C. C. LeBas, Secretary, Santa Monica, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>FAIR VIEW GUN CLUB.--R. H. Sanborn, Secretary, Tustin, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>SISQUOC RANGERS.--W. H. Granger, Secretary, San Buenaventura, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>CHRISTOPHER LAND AND WATER CO.--C. C. Merrill, Secretary, H. W. Heltman Building, Los Angeles, Cal. GUADALUPE DUCK CLUB.--E. C. Tallant, Secretary, Santa Barbara, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>CHICO LAND AND WATER CO.--Ed. R. Maier, Secretary, 440 Aliso Street, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>ALOHA GUN CLUB.--A. W. Marsh, Secretary, Temple Block, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>WHITTIER GUN CLUB.--Carroll Proud, Secretary, Whittier, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>ALAMITOS GUN CLUB.--G. E. Franklin, Secretary, Trust Building, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>SAN BERNARDINO GUN CLUB.--F. C. Moore, Secretary, San Bernardino, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>CENTINELLA GUN CLUB.--J. W. A. Off, Secretary and Treasurer, Second and Spring Sts., Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>REDLANDS GUN CLUB.-W. C. WHITTEMORE, Secretary, Redlands, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>RIVERSIDE  AND  ARLINGTON GUN CLUB.--Owen Council, Secretary and Treasurer.</P>
031.sgm:<P>GEEENWING GUN CLUB.--A. M. Goodhue, Secretary, Long Beach, Cal. </P>
031.sgm:<P>GLENDORA RIFLE CLUB.-F. C. Neet, Secretary, Glendora, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>ONTARIO GUN CLUB.--E. V. Caldwell, Secretary, Ontario, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>PASTIME GUN CLUB.--N. D. Nichols, Secretary, San Diego, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>CREEL CLUB.--Fred A. Walton, Secretary, Lankershim Block, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>POMONA GUN CLUB.--J. A. Gallup, Secretary, Pomona, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>PINE CLIFF CLUB.--Hancock Banning, Secretary, Los Angeles, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>CADWELL GUN CLUB.--L. A. Bailey, Secretary, Long Beach, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>VALLEY HUNT CLUB.--Dr. F. F. Rowland, President, Pasadena, CaL.</P>
031.sgm:<P>THE MARYLAND HUNT--Pasadena, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>THE PASADENA GUN CLUB.</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>395</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>PASADENA COUNTRY CLUB (Golf).</P>
031.sgm:<P>SAN RAFAEL GOLF CLUB--San Rafael Ranch, Pasadena, Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>SAN GABRIEL GOLF CLUB.</P>
031.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES COUNTRY CLUB (Golf).</P>
031.sgm:<P>AVALON GOLF CLUB--Santa Catalina Is., Cal.</P>
031.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA COUNTRY CLUB (Golf, Polo).</P>
031.sgm:<P>RIVERSIDE COUNTRY CLUB (Golf, Polo).</P>
031.sgm:<P>CORONADO (GOLF) CLUB.</P>
031.sgm:<P>ORANGE GOLF CLUB.</P>
031.sgm:<P>Acknowledgments<LB></P>
031.sgm:<P>The photographs used in this volume were taken by Harold A. Parker of Colorado St., Pasadena, Cal., Messrs. Putnam and Valentine, Los Angeles, Cal., C. C. Pierce &amp; Co., Los Angeles, Cal., Charles Ironmonger &amp; Co., Avalon, Cal. J. G. Brewster, San Buenaventura, Cal., The Graham Photo Co., Los. Angeles, Cal., and C. J. Crandall &amp; Co., Pasadena, Cal., and others.</P>
031.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"> <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>397</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Index<LB>Abalone fisheries, 345<LB>Adenostoma, 43<LB>Alamitos, 51<LB>Albacore fishing, 301-302<LB>Aliso, 204<LB>Alpine Tavern, 142<LB>Amber-fish, 351<LB>Anacapa Island, 192,329<LB>Angel-fish, 321<LB>Antelope, 174-177;  range, 174; description, 175; Valley, 174<LB>Arroyo Seco River, 26, 83, 213<LB>Arch Rock, 205<LB>Argus Peak, 148<LB>Automobiling, 181-207<LB>Avalon, 230, 262, 330,331<LB>Avocet, 59, 122<LB>Azusa, 197<LB>Bait Club, 86<LB>Balsa Chica, 51<LB>Banning, Captain William, 280<LB>Barracuda, 313<LB>Barton Flats, 144,<LB>Bass, black, 97<LB>Bats, 125<LB>Beach fishing, 346<LB>Beard, S. M., 250<LB>Bear Lake, 97; Valley, 144<LB>Bently, Dr., 251<LB>Bighorn, the, 129-134; on Ensenada, 129; range of, 131<LB>Birds, 121-130<LB>Bittern, least, 123<LB>Blackbirds, 54<LB>Black Current of Japan, 375<LB>Black Jack Peak, 225<LB>Bonito fishing, 301-304<LB>Brandegee, Prof. T. F., 337<LB>Brown, Jason, 211; Owen, 211<LB>Brown's Peak, 148<LB>Burns, William C., 27; pack of Kentucky thoroughbreds, 27<LB>Cabrillo, Juan Rodriguez, 189<LB>Cabrillo Mountains, 226<LB>Cacitas Pass, 188<LB>Camulos, 192<LB>Ca&ntilde;ons of the Sierra Madre, 85<LB>Carlsbad, 203<LB>Carnegie Institute, solar observatory, 142<LB>Carpenteria, 189<LB>Channel Islands, 234; cruising among, 329; flora, 337-338<LB>Chaparral, density of, 46<LB>Chino, 213<LB>Cienega Seco, 144<LB>Climate, for Southern California, 339;  San Clemente, 339; Santa Cruz, 339,361; Santa Catalina, 339; Santa Rosa, 339; in San Gabriel Valley, 365; rainy season, 369; variety of, 363; from Pasadena to  Alpine Tavern, 363,364; conditions which affect, 365<LB>Climatology, of California, report of, 379<LB>Coaching, from Santa Barbara to the Mission of San Diego deAcala, 181,207;  at Santa  Catalina, 275, 284<LB>Cold Water Creek, 94<LB>Colton, 197<LB>Condor, 123</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>398</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Cooper Ranch, 187<LB>Coots, 58<LB>Corinthian Yacht Club, 340<LB>Coronado Islands, 204, 329<LB>Corral Harbour, 332<LB>"Cottontails," 27<LB>Coyote, hunting, 103-118; range, 118<LB>Cranes, 53; sand-hill, 59<LB>Creel Club, 86<LB>Cucamonga, 197<LB>Dark Ca&ntilde;on, 144<LB>Deep Creek, 98<LB>Deer hunting, 39, 47; in the San Rafael Hills, 42; in Santa Barbara, 46; in San Diego, 46; San Jacinto, 46; guides necessary,  47<LB>Del Mar, 202<LB>Devil Ca&ntilde;on, 144<LB>Devil's Gate, 94<LB>Doves, mourning, 124<LB>Dowitcher, long-billed, 123<LB>Duarte, 197<LB>Ducks, 54; varieties, 57<LB>Dumetz, Padre Franscisco,  192<LB>Eagle Nest Inn, 282<LB>Eaton Ca&ntilde;on, 92<LB>Eddy, Col. R. A., 251<LB>Elizabeth Lake,  174<LB>El Montecito, 188<LB>Elms, H., 338<LB>Elsinore, 76<LB>El Toro, 4, 204<LB>Encenitas, 202<LB>Ensenada, 130<LB>Falkland Islands, 238<LB>Fallbrook, 201<LB>Farallones, 237<LB>Fierasfer, 324<LB>Fiesta of San Luis Rey, 199<LB>Fillmore, 94<LB>Follow's Camp,  93<LB>Fox hunting, 65,75; seasons, 74-75; tree-climbing, 69; coast, 70; hounds, California, 73<LB>Fredalba, 145<LB>Gallinule, 59<LB>Garvanza, 26<LB>Gaviota Pass, 188<LB>Geese, wild, 52,  53; varieties,  57; Canada, 60; Hutchin's, 61<LB>Glass-bottom boat, 240, 317-326<LB>Gleason's Peak,  148<LB>"Glen Annie" Ranch, 187<LB>Goat, wild, 225-234<LB>Godwit, marbled, 123<LB>Gonzales Ranch,  198<LB>Gophers, 124<LB>Greyhounds, 13,14<LB>Grizzly Peak, 148, 149<LB>Groupers, 313<LB>Gulls,  122<LB>Hale, Dr. George E., 92,  142<LB>Hammer-heads,  313<LB>Heron, blue, 123<LB>Heteromeles, 43<LB>Hollister Ranch,  187<LB>Howland's, 284<LB>Hueneme, 192<LB>Humming-birds, 124<LB>Ibis, wood, 123<LB>Indio, 176-177<LB>Jack-rabbit, hunt, 4, 15; in San Fernando Valley, 12; in Pomona,   12; in Ontario, 12; Riverside, 12; Redlands,12;  San Diego, 12;   Coronado, 12; hunting vs. Coursing, 14-15<LB>Jess, George B., 251<LB>Kelp ( <HI REND="italics">Macrocystes</HI>
031.sgm: ), 237-257; fish 239, 240, 323-324<LB>Killdeer, 59<LB>Kinglets, 125<LB>Kinney, Abbot, 99<LB>Kuroshiwo, 243<LB>Laguna, 205<LB>Laguna Ca&ntilde;on, 76<LB>La Jolla, 204<LB>Lake Elsinore, 198<LB>Landmarks Club, 192</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>399</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>400</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Rain-storms in the mountains, 217, 218<LB>Rain, cause of, 377<LB>Rainfall in Los Angeles, 379<LB>Rat, wood-, 125<LB>Ravens, 125<LB>Raymond Hill, 193<LB>Raymond, Walter, 193<LB>Rider, F. V., 250<LB>Riverside, 197<LB>Robin, 125<LB>Rose-tree foxhounds, experiences with, 31,32<LB>Rowland, Dr. F. F., 30 <HI REND="italics">Salmo iridius</HI>
031.sgm:, 89<LB>Salton sink, the, 150, 176<LB>San Buenaventura Mission, 188, 191, 192<LB>Sandpiper, 59; spotted, 153<LB>Sandpit Ca&ntilde;on, 144<LB>San Clemente,  237,  283, 289, 329, 331<LB>San Diego Mission, 203<LB>San Diego Yacht Club, 340<LB>San Fernando, 192; Mission, 192<LB>San Gabriel Archangel,  195-197<LB>San Gabriel Ca&ntilde;on, fishing in, 86; Mission, 4; River, 83; Peak,  148<LB>San Gorgonio Chasm, 150<LB>San Jacinto River,  198<LB>San Juan Capistrano Mission, 76, 204<LB>San Luis Obispo, 27<LB>San Luis Rey de Francia, 201<LB>San Luis Rey Mission, 76, 201-202<LB>San Mario hounds, 10<LB>San Miguel, 329; Islands, 333<LB>San Nicolas, 283, 295, 329, 331-332<LB>San Pedro, 262<LB>San Rafael Hills, 26<LB>Santa Ana, 205<LB>Santa Ana River, 83<LB>Santa Anita Ranch, 194<LB>Santa Barbara Mission,  184-186; Islands, 329; Rock 329; Harbour, 335<LB>Santa Catalina, 225; coaching in, 277; Islands, 329<LB>Santa Clara River, 95<LB>Santa Cruz, 291, 329,333<LB>Santa Margarita Rancho, 76<LB>Santa Maria, Vincente de, 192<LB>Santa Monica, 121<LB>Santa Paula, 192; Creek, 94<LB>Santa Rosa,  289,  329,  333,  334; Island, 295; Ranch, 198<LB>Santa Ynez range, 84<LB>Santiago Hunt Club, 28,73, 118<LB>Sea-bass, 243,257; angler's equipment, 254;-lions, 289, 297; trout,<HSEP>312<LB>Seal Rocks, 231<LB>Seriob, 351<LB>Serra, Father Junipero, 191<LB>Serranos, the, 29<LB>Sheep, bighorn, 129-134<LB>Sheep's-head, 325<LB>Ship Rock, 285<LB>Shooting clubs, 56<LB>Short, Dr. J. de Barth, 112, 197<LB>Shrubs,  146,147<LB>Sierra Santa Monica, the, 84,  192<LB>Sierra Madre, the, 83-100; life in, 211-221<LB>Sisar River, 94<LB>Sulphur Mountain, 94<LB>"Ski-jack" fishing, 305<LB>Snipe, Wilson's, 123<LB>Soledad Ca&ntilde;on, 95<LB>South Fork, 144<LB>South Coast Yacht Club, 331<LB>Sparrows, 125<LB>Sphinx, the, 249<LB>Spider crabs, 321<LB>"Sprig," 55<LB>Squirrels, ground,  124<LB>Still angling, 343-347; at Alamitos, 327; at Port Los Angeles, 347; at Redondo, 347</P>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>401</PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P>Stilt, black-necked, 122<LB>Summer camps, 145<LB>Sunny Slope, hounds, 12; Ranch, 194<LB>Surf-fish, 314<LB>Swallows, 125<LB>Switzer, Commodore, 212<LB>Tattler  123<LB>Tejunga River, 95<LB>Temecula, 198<LB>Temperature in Southern California, 339; comparison with Riviera resorts, 339<LB>Tern, royal, 127; Foster's, 122<LB>Thrush, 125<LB>Tia Juana, 204<LB>Tiburon, 309<LB>Trees, 145,146; tree-climbing dogs,   23<LB>Trolling, deep sea, 301-306<LB>Trout fishing, in the Sierra Madre, 82-100; in the Arroyo Seco, 87-91; in the San Gabriel River, 92; in Santa Ynez Mountains,  93;<LB>in the Sespe 93, season in California, 95; gameness of California, 89; weight, 95; stocking, 96-97<LB>Tuna Club, 243,262; tournament, 251; fishing, 261-272; tackle, 263, 264; record catch,  271<LB>Turnstone, black, 123<LB>Tustin, 206<LB>Valley Hunt hounds, 10, 13, 104; meet, 103<LB>Viele, Gen. Charles, 249<LB>Vulture, California, 123<LB>Warblers, 125<LB>Warner Ranch Indians, 198<LB>Weakfish, 309-312; at Santa Catalina 310; at San Clemente,  310<LB>White Rock, 290<LB>Willet, western, 123<LB>Winds, 374, 375<LB>Wilson's snipe, 58<LB>Wolf Ranch, 198<LB>Wotkyns, Grosvenor, 133<LB>Wrens, 125<LB>Yachting, 335, 336<LB>Yellow-fin, 301<LB>Yellow-tail, 351; nun of, 352; fishing at Avalon Bay, 353; description of,  356; gameness,  357: range of, 351<LB>Zalvidea, Padre Jos&eacute; Maria, 197</P>
031.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ADVERTISEMENT</HEAD>
031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<AD><P><HI REND="bold">THE WORKS OF THEODORE ROOSEVELT</HI>
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031.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
031.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
031.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">THE WORKS OF THEODORE ROOSEVELT</HI>
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032.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/31/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-032</TITLE>
032.sgm:<TITLE>The argonauts of 'forty-nine, some recollections of the plains and the diggings. By David Rohrer Leeper: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
032.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
032.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
032.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress.</NAME>
032.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
032.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
032.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
032.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
032.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-803</LCCN>
032.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
032.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>43895</COPYRIGHT>
032.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>THE<LB>ARGONAUTS OF 'FORTY-NINE<LB>SOME RECOLLECTIONS OF THE PLAINS AND THE DIGGINGS<LB>BY<LB>DAVID ROHRER LEEPER</P>
032.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATED<LB>BY O. MARION ELBEL, FROM SELECTIONS AND SUGGESTIONS<LB>BY THE AUTHOR<LB><HI REND="blockindent">"Golden days, remembered days,<LB>The days of 'Forty-Nine"</HI>
032.sgm:<P>SOUTH BEND, INDIANA<LB>J. B. STOLL &amp; COMPANY, PRINTERS<LB>1894</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>Copyright, 1894 and 1895, BY DAVID ROHRER LEEPER.  <HI REND="italics">All rights reserved</HI>
032.sgm:<P>ERRATA.<LB>Page 13, bottom line, for "sixty" read "twenty-two" or "sixty men."<LB>Page 45, line 11 from bottom, for "Headpath's" read "Hudspeth's." Page 59, line 1 of foot-note, for "Pike" read "Posey."</P>
032.sgm:<BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>I.<LB>HO, FOR THE SACRAMENTO!</HEAD>
032.sgm:<P>ON FEBRUARY 22, 1849, our little party of six set out from South Bend, Indiana, for the newly discovered gold-fields of California.  The members of this party were William S. Good, Michael Donahue, Thomas Rockhill, William L. Earl, Thomas Dudley Neal, and the writer (David R. Leeper).  All were young--the oldest twenty-five, the youngest seventeen.  Our equipment consisted of two wagons, seven yoke of oxen, and two years' supplies.  The long journey before us, the comparatively unknown region through which it lay, and the glamour of the object for which it was undertaken, lent our adventure considerable local interest, so that many friends and spectators were present to witness our departure, our two covered wagons being objects of much curious concern as they rolled out Washington street, with their three thousand miles chiefly of wilderness before them.  But for us the occasion had few pangs.  The diggings had been discovered but a twelvemonth before, and the glowing tales of their marvellous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:richness were on every tongue.  Our enthusiasm was wrought up to the highest pitch, while the hardships and perils likely to be incident to such a journey were given scarcely a passing thought.  Several parties of our acquaintance had already gone, and others were preparing to go, which still further intensified our eagerness.  It was therefore with light hearts, and perhaps lighter heads, that we lustily joined in the chorus of the inspiring parody of the time:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh, California!<LB>That's the land for me;<LB>I'm going to Sacramento<LB>With my washbowl on my knee.</HI>
032.sgm:<P>The West was still very new.  Even Chicago had not heard the whistle of the locomotive.  Illinois, Iowa and Missouri were, for the most part, an unbroken prairie expanse, with not infrequently ten to twenty miles between the nearest settlers.  The cooing of myriads of prairie chickens filled the morning air like the roar of a distant waterfall, and the prairies were strewn over with the antlers of the deer and elk, attesting the abundance also of this more pretentious species of game.  Westward of Iowa and Missouri, that vast area of mountain and plain stretching away to where the surf-beat of the Pacific laves the golden shore, was laid down on the maps as terra incognita.  Except at three or four isolated spots, where a mission or a military post had been located, not an abode of the white man was to be seen from the Missouri River to the Sacramento.  True, the Later Day Saints, wandering about in search of the Holy Land, like the Israelites of old, had dropped down by the Great Salt Lake two years before, but the bulk of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SCENE ON THE CALIFORNIA EMIGRANT ROAD</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>We were not long in finding out that the adventure meant something more than poetry and romance.  We left home in the midst of a thaw, and from the very start were beset with the mud, slush and flood incident to the breaking up of winter.  Especially upon the murky prairies, of which we saw little else till we reached the frontier, the roads were wretched in the extreme.  Several of the parties from South Bend drove their teams only as far as the Mississippi River, where, wearied of their tedious progress, they shipped their wagons and goods by boat to their intended point of departure on the frontier, driving their teams thence loose across the county.  Our party, however, braved it through overland from beginning to end.  Nor did we indeed have much choice in the matter, for it so happened that we were out from home but a few days when all the hard cash in our company's exchequer mysteriously took wing.  We were frequently compelled to make wide detours, avoiding the roads altogether, so as to escape the floods and bottomless lowlands.  Many of the streams were out of their banks, and the bridges (if there had been any) were washed away.  At LaSalle, Illinois, we were water-bound for a week or more by the swollen Little Vermillion Creek.  We made an effort to cross by swimming a yoke of oxen over and attaching a line from them to a wagon on the opposite bank.  The wagon made the passage well enough; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:but it had not occurred to us to lash down the box, and the vehicle had scarcely reached the current when the box lifted from its place, and dashed away on the foaming torrent as gaily as if on a holiday jaunt.  Luckily, the jolly craft lodged at the aqueduct of the canal several miles below, and was thus prevented from being lost in the Illinois River, which was rushing by at floodstage.  Our goods had been removed from the box before we made the experiment.  <illus entity="a032-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WILLIAM S. GOOD. (FROM A DAGUERREOTYPE, 1852.)</P>
032.sgm:We finally, as a last resort, were compelled to swim our oxen across, drag our wagons through the aqueduct, and carry our luggage over on the heel-path, the toe-path being on the opposite side.  At Burlington, Iowa, we had a similar detention.  The bottoms of the Mississippi were inundated for miles, and ferriage for a time was wholly suspended.  <illus entity="a032-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WILLIAM L. EARL. (FROM AN OLD PHOTOGRAPH.)</P>
032.sgm:When finally we were enabled to make the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>But the irksomeness of this part of the journey was somewhat relieved by the naturally buoyant proclivities of most of the party.  A little beyond Joliet, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:Illinois, our numbers were augmented by a party of South Benders about the size of ours.  <illus entity="a032-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THOMAS ROCKHILL. (FROM A PHOTOGRAPH, 1881.)</P>
032.sgm:Thus recruited, we were able to muster sereral musical instruments--violin, banjo, tambourine and castanets.  We were all vocal virtuosos from the backwoods conservatories, and our repertoire was amply equipped with the popular plantation melodies of the day.  If our music was not exactly such as "e'en listening angels" would "lean to hear," we were nevertheless enabled in this manner to while away many an evening by our camp-fires, which otherwise would have dragged heavily on our hands.  <illus entity="a032-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DAVID R. LEEPER. (FROM A PHOTOGRAPH, 1891.)</P>
032.sgm:In fact, our musical prepossessions were so pronounced that our fame spread far and near along our route, and won us the reputation of being the wildest and jolliest lot of Hoosiers ever let loose outside the hoop-pole and pumpkin state.  Out on the plains, too, there was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>It must be owned, however, that camp experience was by no means conducive to exuberance of spirit or sweetness of temper.  In fact, it was a matter of common remark that men were decidedly more irascible on the plains than they had been at home, and this perverseness not infrequently culminated in hot words and sometimes in blows.  The tilts thus occasioned were made the theme of many comic songs out on the plains.  Our first experience of the kind occurred at our encampment on the Mississippi, where we were awaiting ferriage.  On this occasion, the chef de cuisine then on duty, had arranged a convenient seat for himself when preparing the meal, and it was noticed that he had not been altogether self-abnegating in apportioning the dried-apple sauce among the several plates.  He had, in fact, served the delicacy in decidedly less stinted measure to himself than to the others.  One of the other members of the mess, observing this, did not propose to brook the offense, and with words, looks and gestures betokening blows brushed the offender aside and seated himself at the favored plate.  Trifling as this affair was, the participants were never friends afterward.</P>
032.sgm:<P>Good and Earl sported better clothes than their companions.  On starting upon the journey, the one wore a silk hat and the other a swallowtail coat.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GOLD MINING WITH ROCKER AND LONG-TOM IN 'FORTY-NINE.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JUST THE THING.</P>
032.sgm:<P>St. Joseph, Missouri, was our objective point on the frontier.  We found this border city--the last outpost of civilization--thronged with gold-seekers like ourselves.  They had flocked hither from every quarter to fit out for the overland journey.  Many had pushed out before our arrival; many were still coming in; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>On May 16, we pulled out from the Missouri River through the muddy timbered bottom to the open bluffs.  We had now, sure enough, bid adieu to civilization.  The wild beast and the sportive, hair-lifting savage rose up in grim visions before us, as the fancy painted forth the haunts of the cheerless solitude.  Over two thousand miles of this sort of forbidding prospect lay before us.  A strong force and a rigid discipline were very naturally conceived of as the imperative needs of the hour.  Many emigrants--as we were all denominated at that time--were encamped about us, and all were impressed with a like portentous sense of the situation.  We were, therefore, not long in marshaling a train of some sixty wagons, duly equipped with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:officers and a bristling code of rules.  Guards were to pace their beats regularly of nights, and the stock was all to be carefully corralled by arranging the wagons in the form of an enclosure for this purpose.  Johnson Horrell, who was for many years a conspicuous figure in the history of South Bend, was given the chief command.  As we pushed out from the river bluffs into the open country beyond, our long line of "prairie schooners" looked sightly indeed, as it gracefully wound itself over the green, billowy landscape,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Stretching in airy undulations far away."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>But, as we soon found out, our "thing of beauty" was not to be "a joy forever."  It was ordered, among other regulations, that the teams retain permanently the order in which they had fallen into line on the first day, only that the procession should be operated as a sort of endless chain, each team in its turn occupying the lead one day and dropping to the rear the next day.  Nothing could appear fairer or more impartial than this arrangement.  Yet, the spirit of revolt was alive and imminent.  The driver--James McCartney, a resolute South Bender--who enjoyed the post of honor on the first day, insisted on retaining the same position on the next day, and he did, in spite of all expostulations and peremptory commands to the contrary.  A court martial was ordered; but the recalcitrant was inexorable.  He simply scouted the authority of that grave tribunal, and thereafter drove and encamped at a convenient distance from the main body, thus largely profiting by the supposed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"LOOKED SIGHTLY INDEED AS IT WOUND OVER THE GREEN, BILLOWY LANDSCAPE"</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>I may here relate a trifling incident illustrative of a conspicuous feature of the plains that season.  We had not been out many days beyond the confines of civilization, when, in a stroll some distance from the train, I discovered a good wagon tire.  <illus entity="a032-0010" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
032.sgm:Such reckless abandonment of property was something new to me.  I rolled the valuable article along for a while, striving vigorously to reach the moving train with it, but had at last to abandon the effort in despair.  From about this time onward, we saw castaway articles strewn by the roadside one after another in increasing profusion till we could have taken our choice of the best of wagons entire with much of their lading, had we been provided with the extra teams to draw them.  Some of the draft animals perished, some stampeded, and all became more or less jaded and foot-worn.  One train, from Columbus, Ohio, lost every animal it had through that inexplicable fright known as stampede.  Hence the means for transportation became inadequate thus early on the journey, and were every day becoming more and more reduced.  Many of the emigrants had provided enough supplies to last them a year or two; but they were not long in seeing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>EVENING CAMP SCENE ON THE PLAITE--FLIPPING FLAPJACKS.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>Fuel was quite an object through that part of the route now known as Nebraska and Eastern Wyoming.  On the lower part of the main Platte, the situation as to wood was somewhat like that described in the Grecian fable as to water:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"So bends tormented Tantalus to drink,<LB>While from his lips the refluent waters shrink;<LB>Again the rising stream his bosom laves,<LB>And thirst consumes him 'mid circumfluent waves."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>For a number of days, a heavy belt of cottonwoods was temptingly near at hand; but not in a single instance were we able to reach a trunk, limb, or twig because of an intervening section of the river.  Weeds and buffalo "chips" <HI REND="italics">bois de vache</HI>
032.sgm:<P>As to our grand caravan, it steadily came to grief.  The inexpediency of traveling in so large a body <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:became more and more manifest as we approached the mountains, and the rough roads and difficult passages delayed progress by the necessity of one team having to wait on another, especially where the doubling of teams was required.  Other influences tended to the same end.  As we became accustomed to the plains, our wariness from visions of the tomahawk and the scalping-knife gradually wore away into stolid indifference, so that we cared nothing for the security that numbers might afford.  I carried no arms, yet often wandered miles away from the train alone as this or that object might happen to attract my attention.  The parching winds and stifling dust, with the bountifully blotched and blistered lips that afficted nearly every one in consequence, did not at all conduce to that geniality of temper that would incline men to social solace.  Besides, on the earlier part of the route, there was much sickness, and many deaths occurred, which occasioned annoyances and delays irksome to those not immediately interested.  It is not very strange, therefore, that, with all these dismembering tendencies at work, our once imposing pageant should have so ingloriusly faded that before we had fairly reached the mountains it had passed into "innocuous desuetude."  Even our own little party underwent depletions from time to time until but three members of the original six remained.  These three traveled and camped alone for many days, with the utmost unconcern as to whether anybody else was far or near.  As for keeping watch, all thought of that had vanished before we had proceeded a quarter of our way.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:Tents, too, were early abandoned as useless luxuries, and each individual when retiring for the night, sought out the most eligible site he could find (usually among the sage-brush), and rolling himself up in his blankets and buffalo robes thus committed himself to the "sweet restorer," with only the starry canopy for a shelter;--<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">See "Moonlight camp scene on the Humboldt," on page 52.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Weariness<LB>Can snore upon the flint, when rusty sloth<LB>Finds the downy pillow hard."<LB></HI>
032.sgm:<P>In connection with the matter of guard duty, a little digression here in the way of a personal allusion may be excusable.  The occurrence happened while some pretense of numbers and military formalities was still affected.  My guard-shift came on at midnight.  It was alleged that I failed to respond to the call of the sentinel whom I was to relieve.  It was at the time raining and blustering forbiddingly without.  It was much more inviting beneath the protecting wagon sheets than out upon the bleak, howling plain.  Hence the presumption of guilt lay manifestly against me, and I was promptly arraigned and tried on the charge.  A witty and brilliant attorney from Columbus, Ohio, volunteered to defend me.  The counsel laid much stress on my unsophisticated make-up, and thus in a serio-comic vein affected to appeal to the sympathy of the court.  But the court nevertheless remained inexorable, and a double stent of guard duty was the finding.  Whether or not that judgment was ever carried into effect, is a matter that does not appear of record.</P>
032.sgm:<P>Near where we forbed the South Platte we had the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A SIOUX VILLAGE. (AFTER A SKETCH BY GEORGE CATLIN.)</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>Game was by no means as plentiful as one would have supposed.  We found more of it in the states through which we passed than in the country beyond.  In the region now known as Nebraska many antelopes were seen bounding over the plain or watching our movements from elevated points; but they were shy, vigilant, and hard to capture.  In the mountains, deer and mountain sheep ( <HI REND="italics">ovis montana</HI>
032.sgm: ) were occasionally sighted and brought down, and when we struck the magnificent pasture ranges of California, deer, elk, antelope and bear abounded.  At the "Big Meadows," on Feather River, where we lay by several days to recruit our oxen, Neal brought in seven blacktail deer in one day.  I was out at the same time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"A SPIRITED CHASE."</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n1-2"></ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<P>A spirited chase was being given the tempting stragglers, and this within plain view of our moving caravan.  The spectacle was rendered none the less inspiring from the circumstance that a lady mounted on a fleet steed was one of the party making pursuit.</P>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">The writer was privileged, nearly thirty years later, when steaming down the Missouri River through the Bad Lands, to witness those noble beasts in their wonted glory.  It was in August, and they were on their northward run.  The steamer was several days in passing through their scattered bands, groups of which were well-nigh constantly in sight Several times the boat ran over clumps of them, as they were swimming the river.  At one point we came upon perhaps thirty to forty of them where they were confined on a narrow sand spit between the river and a high vertical bluff.  The frightened animals took to the water, and a part of them became mired in a mud bank on the opposite side, where the captain ran the steamer upon them and sixteen were wantonly slaughtered.  Squads of the passengers kept up a constant fusilade among the poor brutes from the hurricane deck, as the steamer was passing through their lines, killing and maiming many--all, too, with rifles and ammunition furnished the boat by the Government for defense against hostile Indians.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II.</HEAD>
032.sgm:<P>A CHANGE OF SCENE--THE ARID REGION. WE forded the South Fork of the Platte.  It was, at our place of crossing, a broad, shallow stream, with a treacherous quicksand bottom.  The accompanying cut presents a typical scene of the fording.  From this branch of the Platte, our trail lay over a high, open, rolling country, via Ash Hollow, for a distance of about fifty miles, to the North Fork of the Platte.  We then followed the course of the latter stream some three hundred miles.  The country now gradually increased in ruggedness, thus heralding our approach toward the Rocky Mountains.  The cliffs and highlands along the Platte became objects of special interest.  These cliffs, being composed of horizontal strata of different degrees of hardness, were in many instances wrought into various forms which, with a little assistance of the imagination, appeared to be artistic creations, such as churches, castles, towers, embattlements, and architectural ruins of various sorts.  As Washington Irving remarks, one could scarcely persuade himself that works of art were not here really mingled with the fantastic freaks of nature.</P>
032.sgm:<P>We had now, very evidently, entered upon a land different from any to which we had ever before been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FORDING THE SOUTH PLATTE. (REDRAWN BY PERMISSION FROM "PACIFIC TOURIST." ADAMS &amp; BISHOP, PUBLISHERS, NEW YORK)</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CHIMNEY ROCK.</P>
032.sgm:<P>The Court House Rock and the Chimney Rock<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: were among the more conspicuous of these natural curiosities, and both were visible a considerable distance.  We took our nooning nearly opposite the first-named, which arose before us isolated and in bold relief out of the bosom of the plain.  Ahead, in the direction we were going, the spire of the other was peeping invitingly over the intervening hills.  It would be easy enough, to all appearances, to step over to the Court House, cut across to the Chimney, and reach the train by camping time.  A party of us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A PRAIRIE DOG VILLAGE.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">I thus described this noted landmark in 1 64, when I last saw it: "It has a vertical column about seventy feet high, standing upon the apex of a conical base of about the same height and about a half mile in its largest circumference.  A few years ago the lightning hurled some thirty feet of the chimney or spire to the ground, and the winds and the rains are slowly wearing away the remainder.  The mass is evidently a detached section of the adjacent bluffs, and has been configured by the same processes of erosion as the formations of which it was once a part."</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>About fifteen miles above Chimney Rock are Scott's Bluffs.<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: The high, picturesque escarpments which had been occupying our attention for several days here fell abruptly into the Platte, necessitating a circuit of some thirty miles across the uplands.  A cut in the face of the cliffs about the width of a common wagon road and with perpendicular walls at the entrance three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:to four hundred feet high, furnished a natural and easy ascent.  Near the summit were an excellent spring and an inviting camping ground.  A blacksmith had here erected a temporary shop and was for the time industriously plying his trade.  Even this rude make-shift of a habitation had a refreshing effect upon our spirits, as a reminder of the civilization we had left far behind.  <illus entity="a032-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SCOTT'S BLUFFS.--(REDRAWN BY PERMISSION FROM "THE CENTURY" FOR JULY, 1891.)</P>
032.sgm:The bluffs, as we first sighted them, treated us to a magnificent optical illusion--a striking instance of the mirage.  The Platte seemed to be lifted high from its bed and swollen into a mighty flood sweeping the entire valley.  Out of this apparent expanse of rushing waters the rugged form of the bluffs loomed up in blunted, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">Irving, in his "Captain Bonneville," relates a very pathetic story of one Scott in connection with these bluffs.  A number of years prior to the period in which he was writing (1832), Scott had been taken ill and was abandoned by his companions on the Laramie River: "On the ensuing summer these very individuals visiting these parts, in company with others, came suddenly upon the bleached bones and grinning skull of a human skeleton, which, by certain signs, they recognized for the remains of Scott.  This was sixty long miles from the place where they had abandoned him; and it appeared that the wretched man had crawled that immense distance before death put an end to his miseries.  The wild and picturesque bluffs in the neighborhood of his lonely grave have ever since borne his name."</NOTE>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LARAMIE'S PEAK--REDRAWN BY PERMISSION FROM "THE CENTURY" FOR MARCH. 1891.)</P>
032.sgm:<P>We now began to catch an occasional glimpse of the outer and higher peaks of the Rocky Mountains.  Laramie's Peak was the first of these to greet us.<ANCHOR ID="n2-3">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: In a few days more we passed Fort Laramie, where we entered the Black Hills, so called from the dark appearance at a distance of the scrubby cedars covering the region.  The road had become rougher and the soil more parched; but the change was hailed as a welcome relief from the long-continued monotony.  We had actually grown weary of good roads, and sighed for something to shake us up.  Another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:welcome change was the abundance of fuel, and the numerous mountain streams of pure cold water.  We here made our first acquaintance with the artemisia or sage-brush, which was thenceforward to be our chief reliance for fuel.<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3">This peak was the first mountain that any of our immediate party had ever seen, and its proportions appeared to us very formidable.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">This shrub occasionally grows six to eight feet in height, but generally only from one to two feet.  It emits, especially when crushed, a strong wormwood odor, which from its almost constant presence became very obnoxious.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>The North Fork of the Platte, from which on leaving Fort Laramie we had made a detour of eighty miles, we crossed on a craft constructed of cottonwood dug-outs pinned together, which was purchased and sold by those who in turn used it.  One of our wagons was swamped on being run aboard the contrivance, but the lading being chiefly flour little damage was done.</P>
032.sgm:<P>At the Red Buttes, we took final leave of the Platte, which had so long borne us company.  It was still a considerable stream, being several hundred yards wide, with a deep and rapid current.  An enterprising Mormon had located a current ferry-boat at this point, which proved a very profitable investment.  Two days more took us to the Sweetwater, a clear, rapid tributary of the Platte, four feet deep and twenty yards wide.  We were now upon the immediate confines of the Rocky Mountains proper.  From the appearance of the specimens before us, the name "Rocky" seemed to have been readily enough suggested, for the entire mass in sight was of primitive rock wholly bare, and destitute of vegetation except here and there where a friendly crevice or indentation yielded a scanty and precarious sustenance to a few stunted trees or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INDEPENDENCE ROCK. (REDRAWN BY PERMISSION FROM "PACIFIC TOURIST."  ADAMS &amp; BISHOP, PUBLISHERS. NEW YORK.)</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE BIG-HORN AT HOME.--ADAPTED BY PERMISSION FROM ROOSEVELT'S "THE HUNTING TRIPS OF A RANCHMAN." G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS, PUBLISHERS. NEW YORK AND LONDON.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:shrubs.  The signs of disintegration, too, were on all sides strikingly manifest.  The huge bodies in place were rent into fragments from base to summit, and were ground off and furrowed out as only Nature's agencies could have fashioned them during long geologic time.  The immense blocks, some of them acres in extent, had apparently been wrenched from the original ledges and strewn roundabout, as if some maddened Titan had been attempting to tear up the foundations of the earth and fling the fragments to the winds;-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The green earth shuddered, and shrank, and paled;<LB>The wave sprang up and the mountain quailed.<LB>Look on the hills; let the sears they bear<LB>Measure the pain of that hour's despair."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>Independence Rock is the most noted of these detached landmarks.  Standing immediately by the roadside as a sort of sentinel to the mountain flank, it was the first of these interesting objects to arrest our attention.  Recent measurements make it one thousand five hundred and fifty yards in circumference and one hundred and ninety-three feet in height.  Its side bordering the road was literally covered with names and dates; as, according to Fremont, it was when he first saw it, in 1842.  We here celebrated the Fourth of July.  The young lawyer who earlier had so gallantly defended me for sleeping on guard made the oration.  The rock took its name from a similar celebration that took place there years before.  We used the river water for camp purposes during our stop-over for the patriotic exercises.  Imagine our chagrin and disgust when soon after breaking camp the next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>A few miles above Independence Rock is seen another example of Nature's wonder-making,--the Devil's Gate.  This chasm is simply a crack across the end of a granite mountain-spur, thirty-five feet wide and three hundred yards long, with walls nearly vertical and four hundred feet high.  Through this gorge the Sweetwater forced its way, although the passage was much obstructed by fragments of rock which had broken away and tumbled in from above.  On one of the blocks in the middle of the stream lay the remains of a mountain sheep or big-horn.  The timid creature, whose favorite haunts are such dizzy heights, had probably become frightened, and thus taken its death-leap from one of the adjacent cliffs.  I attempted to pass through the gorge, but my progress was soon arrested.  Retracing my steps to an eligible point, I scaled the spur of the mountain, and at the summit observed a dike or cleft about four feet wide cutting the wall down to the river.  Rounded, igneous bowlders suggestive of "fire and brimstone" were strewn down the opening, forming an irregular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE DEVIL'S GATE--(REDRAWN FROM FREMONT'S "REPORT OF EXPLORING EXPEDITION.")</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:declivity to the river, as if the <HI REND="italics">genius loci</HI>
032.sgm:<P>Our course now lay along the valley of the Sweetwater for about one hundred miles to the South Pass, where we crossed the great divide that separates the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.  The valley or gateway is from ten to twenty miles wide.  The surface is undulating, occasionally mounting into hills, and the ascent so gradual that we were scarcely aware when the culmination was reached and passed.  The bottoms were fairly supplied with grasses; but the uplands were dominated by the now well-nigh ever-present sage-brush.  As we approached the summit, we observed several patches of snow near the roadside.  A few varieties of wild flowers were blooming close by these lingering relies of winter, thus attesting the aptitude of Nature to respond to her environment whatever its character.  When upon the summit we were seven thousand four hundred and ninety feet above sea-level, and about one thousand miles from our point of departure on the frontier.  To the northward in the distance the icy crests of the sharp, craggy peaks of the Wind River Mountains were seen glittering in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE WIND RIVER MOUNTAINS.--(REDRAWN FROM FREMONT'S "REPORT OF EXPLORING EXPEDITION.")</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>Just beyond the South Pass we encamped at the Pacific Springs, where for the first time we looked upon water flowing Pacificward.  The spring nourished a beautiful, meadow-like park spread out in gentle slopes.  The situation was impressive.  The great Rocky Range lay between us and home; a vast region to us a terra incognita, stretched away before us.  In a less prosaic age, we could readily have peopled the wild, shadowy realm with all sorts of mythical monsters, as was the wont of the old-time Greek when alone musing beside his sea-shore; -- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"At eventide when the shore is dim,<LB>And bubbling wreaths with the billows swim.<LB>They rise on the wing of the freshened breeze,<LB>And flit with the wind o'er the rolling seas."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>The trail at this point diverged, one branch going by way of Salt Lake, and the other by way of Bear River.  We took the latter branch, which was known as Sublette's Cut-off.  Green River, one of the two forks that form the Colorado of the West, was crossed about seventy miles beyond the South Pass.  The stream was about four hundred feet wide, with a deep and violent current.  Another Mormon had placed a good ferry-boat at this point; so that we had no trouble in getting our wagons over.  But the water was so cold and the current so violent that we consumed a whole day in forcing our stock across.  Finally, one of the party, Swift from Elkhart, mounting a mule, spurred the animal across, and this broke the way for the herd to follow.  The aspect of the river was barren <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CROSSING GREEN RIVER.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>Between Green River and Bear River we crossed a divide nearly a thousand feet higher than the South Pass.  This is the watershed separating the waters of the Pacific from those of the Great Basin.  We were now so far above sea-level that the humid atmosphere afforded sustenance to some of the higher forms of plant life.  Our road led directly through a small grove of tamarack, alder, and aspen which crowned one of the more favored elevations.  This grove was truly an enchanting spot; at least it so appeared to us after our thousand miles of timberless monotony.  Comely trees and shrubs; bright foliage; refreshing shade; fragrant flowers; pure, cold springs; sparkling rivulets; luxuriant grasses; the chirp and chatter of many birds,--such was the scene as my memory now recalls it.  It seemed indeed like a precious gem plucked from fairy land.  No weary, parched and sand-beaten traveler of Sahara could have been more enraptured upon sighting an oasis than were we upon entering this cheery, sylvan spot.</P>
032.sgm:<P>The Bear River is the largest tributary of the Great Salt Lake, and thus belongs to the water system of the Great Basin.  The section of the route lying along this stream is one of the few of the journey that I now recall with pleasurable emotions.  The abundance of good water, good fuel, and good grazing, were the characteristics that then most concerned us, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>Near where we left the Bear River, at a point where it doubles sharply to the southward in its haste to mingle with the waters of the Great Salt Lake, we were further regaled by seeing a large band of the Sho-sho-ne or Snake Indians.  These, too, were an interesting type of the Aborigine.  They were migrating nomad-fashion, being generally mounted and carrying with them their families, many ponies, and all their equipments of the camp, the chase, and the warpath.  The mounted braves; the fantastic trappings; the squaws with their burdens; the motley households; the pack-ponies; the lodge-poles dragging from the saddles of the ponies; the platform or litter here and there erected on these poles to convey the sick, disabled and infirm; the whooping vaqueros driving the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A BAND OF SHO-SHO-NES MOVING.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>We now at once entered upon a sterile, volcanic plain.  According to recent scientific investigations, this plain was a vast lake of molten lava within a comparatively recent geological period.  ("Geological Sketches at Home and Abroad," A. Gieke.)  I accidentally came upon one of the craters, through which this sea of liquid fire had once been fed from beneath the earth's crust.  The aperture was in the form of a long seam or fissure, with irregular walls of black slag-rock, the lips of which were flush with the general face of the plain.  I dropped a pebble into the opening, and it went rattling down, bounding from side to side, till the sound, decreasing in volume, was wholly lost in unknown depths.</P>
032.sgm:<P>We were now on the main Oregon emigrant trail; but instead of following this northward to Fort Hall, on Snake River, we soon after leaving Bear River struck to the westward on what was known as Headpath's Cut-off.  This route had not been opened till that season, and there were no guide-books to indicate the camping places, as there were for the other roads.  We usually carried a keg of water, as a precaution against any dearth of the natural supply, either expected or unexpected; but for several days the region through which we were passing was quite mountainous, and afforded water in such abundance that we began to think it needless to exercise our usual practice of laying in a supply.  It so happened that on the very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:morning we had neglected to fill our cask, we came upon a desert stretch of forty miles.  Being off duty I sauntered ahead of the teams.  I had also that morning neglected to fill my canteen, which I usually carried when not with the teams.  It was an arid, sage-bush plain, which was not only destitute of water, but which had drank every suggestion of moisture from the atmosphere, and seemed intent on wringing every object that came within its embrace as dry and parched as it was itself.  It was by far the most trying day's experience I had on the trip.  The famishing effects of the situation soon began to tell upon me.  Plodding on and on, stirred with alternating hope and disappointment upon every apparent change of landscape, I toward the last became so exhausted from thirst that I was compelled at frequent intervals to pause for a moment's rest and shelter, even welcoming for this purpose the presence of the scanty, unsavory, detested sage-brush.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Traverse the desert, and ye can tell<LB>What treasures exist in the cold deep well;<LB>Sink in despair on the red, parched earth,<LB>And then ye can reckon what water is worth."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>But the coveted liquid in ample quantity was at length reached.  My companions with the teams came on in due time, but not of course without both having suffered greatly.  It is astonishing how long one, if driven to the test, will bear up when he would ordinarily think the last reserve force exhausted.</P>
032.sgm:<P>On this part of the journey, my curiosity led me to climb a high, commanding eminence, at the foot of which the road passed, and my toil was happily and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>An incident of not quite so poetic a nature may be related of our experiences on this cut-off.  As I have already intimated, the creature comforts of the plains were not particularly fruitful of the frame of mind that would incline "the brethren to dwell together in unity."  So far as our larder was concerned, we had been for several weeks reduced to bread, bacon, and black, sugar-less coffee; and the tendency to scurvy had in some instances begun to disclose itself.  We were going <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A COOL RECEPTION.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>Nor was this serio-comic scene allowed to go by without its farce, which, if less chilling to the actors, was no less amusing to the bystanders.  We encamped shortly after the mishap just mentioned, to dry our drenched goods.  One of the men was in the wagon handing down the various articles to another to spread them out on the ground.  A quarrel sprang up between the two concerning the ownership of a pillow.  They were the same men that had the bout over the applesauce back on the Mississippi.  The man below happened to be holding a frying-pan in his hand at a moment when his language and manner indicated that he was about to let fly this culinary implement on a mission of vengeance.  The other, observing the imminent attitude, seized the water-cask and hurled it at his adversary, shouting with dire vehemence, "D--n you! don't throw that at me!"  Happily, the affair terminated, as so many on the route of a similar nature terminated, without physical injury to anyone.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"D--N YOU!  DON'T THROW THAT AT ME!"</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III.</HEAD>
032.sgm:<P>THE GREAT BASIN. WE were now in the heart of the arid wastes of the Great Basin; a region seven to eight hundred miles in width by twice that distance in length and its waters having no visible outlet to the ocean.  In general feature this strange country is a high, irregular plateau,<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: liberally studded with bleak and barren mountain peaks and fragmentary ranges, which, in a few instances, approach the dignity and magnitude of systems.  Not indeed from the time we entered the Black Hills till we looked upon the blue expanse of the Pacific, did the eye anywhere or for an instant rest upon a spot not hemmed in by mountain barriers.  From the Bear River to the Sierra Nevadas, the prospect, as I now look back upon it, was dreary, monotonous, and irksome in the extreme.  It struck me as if the Creator, disgusted with His efforts here at world-making, had abandoned His job half finished.  Through this region, for about three hundred miles, as we then reckoned the distance, our route lay along the Humboldt River, whose banks from source to mouth were unrelieved by a single tree or even a shrub larger than a stunted willow or sage-brush; and which, finally, as if wearied of its own being, buried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOONLIGHT CAMP SCENE ON THE HUMBOLDT.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:itself in the thirsty desert.  Horace Greeley, ten years later, in a flying trip through this region by stage, saw enough of its character to stamp it as the acme of abominations.<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">Embraced in past ages a sea, several hundred thousand square miles in extent, say the geologists.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">Greeley, in his "Overland Journey," in speaking of the Humboldt River, among other deprecative things, says: "I only wish to record my opinion that the Humboldt all things considered, is the meanest river on earth of its length....Though three hundred and fifty miles long it is never more than a decent mill-stream.  I presume it is the only river of equal length that never had even a canoe launched upon its bosom.  Its narrow bottom, or intervale, produces grass; but so coarse in structure, and so alkaline by impregnation, that no sensible man would let his stock eat it, if there were any alternative....Half a dozen specimens of a large, worthless shrub, known as buffalo-bush or bullberry, with a prevalent fringe of willows about the proper size for school-ma'am's use, comprise the entire timber of this delectable stream, whose gadflies, musquitoes, gnats, etc. are so countless and so blood thirsty as to allow cattle so unhappy as to be stationed on, or driven along this river, no chance to eat or sleep....Here famine sits enthroned, and waves his sceptre over a dominion expressly made for him...The sage-bush and greasewood, which cover the high, parched plain on either side of the river's bottom, seems thinly set, with broad spaces of naked, shining, glaring, blinding clay between them; the hills beyond, which bound the prospect, seem even more naked.  Not a tree, and hardly a shrub, anywhere relieves their sterility; not a brook, save one small one, runs down between them to swell the scanty waters of the river."</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>The dwindling down of our party on the plains, one by one, from six members to three, has already been mentioned.  The circumstances may be noticed here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:Much better headway was possible traveling in this manner than in any other then available, while little additional discomfort or inconvenience was suffered; since the emigrants that year were supplied with abundance of provisions, and were so thickly strung along the route, probably at that stage of the season all the way from the Missouri River to the Sacramento, that accommodations could generally be obtained when needed.  Several weeks later, shortly after we entered the Humboldt Valley, Earl's share of the outfit, including a wagon and two yoke of oxen, was at his request set off to him, when, converting the wagon into a cart, he also parted company with us--finally, as it turned out; so that now of our original party only Rockhill, Neal, and myself remained.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>We had now plodded our way to a wearying length.  To hitch up and start on with every returning sun had long comprised the chief round of our existence.  We came to wonder how we should feel when this trudging routine should be a thing of the past.  Thus dragging our slow lengths along, fatigued, half-hearted, nauseated with the eyer-present sage odor, seeing not a single tree, and having a dreary, inhospitable solitude everywhere staring us in the face, we were often prone to ask ourselves whether this sort of life was ever to have an end.  One day, when groping along in this passive, pensive, half-forlorn mood, we perchance, on turning a jutting mountain spur, were suddenly awakened, amazed, electrified.  We had run upon a party direct from the promised land--straight from the enchanting gold fields.  The party proved to be Mormons with their families en route for Brighamland.  Their clothing eclipsed any we had ever seen for tatters and patches; but their oxen, in striking contrast with ours, were rolling fat and sleek, and thus excited our envy.  The members of the party were quite communicative, and gave us a flaming account of the diggings, backing up their words with a liberal display of the shining nuggets.  This was the first real, tangible proof we had had of the existence of gold in California.  We before believed; we now knew.  The effect was ravishing--sent the mercury of our spirits bounding up to the extreme limit of our mental barometers.  An <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"GLORY HALLELUJAH! I'LL BE A RICH MAN YET."</P>
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032.sgm:elderly member of our party, upon viewing the yellow metal, could not restrain his enthusiasm; but, capering about like an exuberant school boy, and shying his hat into the air, shouted: "Glory Hallelujah!  I'll be a rich man yet."  In marked contrast with this little episode, the words of the plaintive ditty of the gold-miner, which later actual experience had suggested, came to my mind times many and oft:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"They told us of the heaps of dust,<LB>And the lumps so mighty big;<LB>But they never said a single word<LB>How hard it was to dig."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>Along the Humboldt River, we were annoyed more or less with the visits of squads of the Digger Indians; a type chiefly distinguished for their filthy habits, repulsive appearance, and pilfering propensities.  Their inflictions upon the emigrants up to this time had been chiefly in the way of persistent begging and petty stealing; but, later in the season, their depredations took a more serious turn, in the way of running off and slaughtering stock, and sometimes in attacking and killing the emigrants themselves.  When left to their own resources, they seemed to subsist mainly on the fat black crickets of the valley and the plenitude of their own vermin.  On a recent trip by rail through this section, I saw many of this same species of the redskin gathered about several of the railroad stations.  As at present fed, clothed, and pampered at the expense of Uncle Sam, they show little of the native Digger distinguishing traits.</P>
032.sgm:<P>At the Meadows, on Humboldt River, we took the Lassen (or Greenhorn) Cut-off.  This route struck northward from this point across the desert, scaled the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:Sierra divide near the boundary line between California and Oregon, and then, doubling a sharp angle to the southward, finally entered the Sacramento Valley at a point near the present village of Vina, at which place the present immense Leland Stanford vineyard is located.  <illus entity="a032-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"I COME FROM OLD MISSOURI, ALL THE WAY FROM PIKE!"</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n3-3">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: We thus unwittingly added five hundred to seven hundred miles to our journey, increasing to that extent the tax upon our teams, to say nothing of the loss of several weeks of precious time.  Our party, and that of our whilom captain, Johnson Horrell, had chanced to fall in with each other again.  Horrell had two ox teams.  A party from Missouri with a like outfit also joined us at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-3">These lines are from an old-time California comic ballad, which, as sung from the stage, took California audiences by storm; and thus illustrated in some degree the levity and ridicule indulged in on the plains and in California in the early days at the expense of the emigrants from Missouri, seemingly because of their odd speech, manners, and dress.  They were dubbed indifferently as "Pukes," "Pikes," or "Pike Countians,"</NOTE>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JUST FROM "POSEY"--SCENTS GAME.</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n3-4">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-4">The Indianian was known by the pseudonym "Pike Countain," and was held in little less disfavor than the Missourian, as referred to in the note on preceding page.  The mention of the name "Indiana" or "Hoosier" usually provoked some half-humorous, half-contemptuous remark about flat-boating on the Wabash, or about the alleged ill-behavior of the Indiana regiment at the battle of Buena Vista, the Mexican War being at that time recent history.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>From the Meadows to Mud Lake, about a hundred and sixty miles, the country was to all appearance destitute of feed; and from the Rabbit-Hole Wells (thirty-seven miles out) to Mud Lake, there was no water except such as from its temperature or its mineral properties rendered it a very poor makeshift.  From the wells mentioned to Black Rock, a distance of forty miles, there was no water of any sort.  At Black Rock there was a large hot sulphur spring so strongly impregnated that the atmosphere about the vicinity was surcharged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:most to suffocation with the vaporous brimstone.  "Schure, hell ist nicht more es one mile von disblace," is the by no means inapt ejaculation ascribed to a matter-of-fact son of Teutonia, as he approached this steaming cauldron and sniffed its suggestive odors.  The locality was rendered none the more enticing to myself from the fact that, for miles back along the road I had come, I could have stepped almost continuously from the carcass of one dead horse or ox to another; so great had been the number of animals that had here perished from hunger, thirst and general exhaustion.<ANCHOR ID="n3-5">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"For lengthening miles on miles they lie,<LB>These sad memorials grim and hoary,<LB>And every whitening heap we spy,<LB>Doth tell some way-worn pilgrim's story."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>Innumerable coyotes, too, attracted hither, snapping, barking, howling, were rendering the situation none the less hideous with their savage orgies over the loathsome carrion.</P>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-5">I noticed on this stretch the familiar forms of Earl's four oxen, where side by side the pitiable creatures had perished on the desert.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COYOTE.</P>
032.sgm:<P>We made no stop on this forty-mile stretch.  Happening to be off duty that day, I wandered alone <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>We had become accustomed to springs of almost every conceivable variety; but a few miles beyond Black Rock, at our first stop after leaving the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"I WAS STARTLED BY STUMBLING UPON AN OBJECT--IT WAS A MAN!"</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<P>Forty miles more of desert brought us to Mud Lake, where, finding abundance of water and grass, we lay by several days to recruit our famished stock.  This so-called "lake" we found to be simply an extensive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<P>Twelve miles from Mud Lake, we entered the High Rock Canyon, which possesses some features that are unique and striking.  It cuts through a range of lava that is some twenty miles in width and as bare of vegetation as if it had cooled but the day before.  The fissure or gorge that afforded us passage is about the width of a common road, and is inclosed by high walls that are carved in irregular outline, as if by the action of an ancient ice-river.  The floor is even, free from bowlders, and the slope so regular and gentle that it seems to descend either way from where you stand.  There are few lateral cuts by which egress or ingress is possible.  A fair growth of grass and an occasional clump of the choke-cherry were the sole evidences of life visible.  But what appeared the most remarkable was the acoustic effects, as we verified by repeated tests.  The report of a rifle would go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<P>This singular lava formation passed, we entered a valley, eight to ten miles in width; the surface of which was ashy-like in color, bore the appearance of a dry lake bed, and was destitute of water and well-nigh of vegetation.<ANCHOR ID="n3-6">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: On the farther side of this plain, lying directly across our front, and stretching away to the right and to the left as far as the eye could reach, arose a magnificent range of mountains.  Looming up abruptly from the plain, and thus being unobscured by the usual foot-hill flankings, this grand upheaval afforded us the most interesting and impressive Alpine view we had yet had on the journey.  Our course now lay northward along the base of this range for a number of days before we reached the pass or crossing.  Meantime, the same valley formation continued, favoring us with an excellent road-bed, while the side of the adjacent mountains supplied us, in convenient proximity, with luxurious camping places--an abundance of water, timber, and wild clover and other nutritious grasses.  We took this lofty divide to be a part of the Sierra Nevada Range, beyond which lay California, the land of our dreams.  We became impatient, now that we supposed ourselves so near, that the enchanting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-6">Rockhill, whose long residence in Nevada, and whose bent for exploration has made him familiar with every part of the Far West, writes me that the alkaline lands of this region, including those of this valley, on which scarce anything else grows, produces an herb known as white sage, which is better for cattle than alfalfa after the frosts come, when they can lick snow as a substitute for water.</NOTE>
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032.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV.<LB>A WELCOME CHANGE.</HEAD>
032.sgm:<P>THIS formidable mountain barrier<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: crossed, we did indeed find a welcome change.  The moisture-laden, life-giving breezes from the Pacific, intercepted by this lofty land elevation, had wrought the transformation.  The vast desert area, with its wide-spread, death-dealing desolation, was no longer present.  Grass, water, and fuel were now abundant.  The streams once more went rippling "unvexed" to the sea.  The flora at times took on larger forms than we had ever before seen.  We passed through miles upon miles of pine forests, whose giant growths were a source of constant surprise and admiration.  Still, we were not yet, by any means, to regale ourselves in an ever-recurring Utopia.  We yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">Now known as the Warner Range, and, contrary to what we supposed, and what seems still to be the popular notion, belongs to the Great Basin system, instead of either the Sierras or the Cascades.  "The Cascade Range, [Capt. C. E. Dutton, <HI REND="italics">U.S. Geol. Survey</HI>
032.sgm:, 1885-86] is usually represented as a northward continuation of the Sierra Nevada.  [Fremont so represents it.  <HI REND="italics">Memoirs</HI>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ALLEN "PEPPERBOX."</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">The revolver most seen in '49.--By courtesy of H. C. Cassidy, Chicago, Ill.)</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>In one particular, at least, our introduction to this side of the range was not at all reassuring.  Our first camp was made a few miles below the foot of Goose Lake, from which Pitt River, the principal tributary of the Sacramento, takes its rise.  Here, early in the evening, as appeared by the indications, the Diggers raided our stock, taking six of our best oxen; one from each of our six teams, as it happened.  The theft was discovered early the next morning, and a detail from our camp at once pushed out upon the trail of the thieves.  The course taken by them was found to lay over a region covered with scrubby cedars and showing a surface so compact that the trail could be distinguished only by the marks made by the oxen's hoofs in displacing the sharp, flinty rock fragments.<ANCHOR ID="n4-3">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: After the marauders had been thus tracked about twenty miles, the attention of our party was suddenly aroused by a loud shriek from behind a ledge of rocks, and, at about the same instant, a number of redskins were seen, down in a ravine walled in by volcanic bowlders, betaking themselves to their heels as fast as their legs could carry them.  But the cowardly flight of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-3">This region has since become known as the Lava Beds, where in the winter of 1872-73, Captain Jack and his Modocs treacherously slew General Canby and gave the Government such a deal of trouble.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COLT'S PATENT, EARLY PATTERN.</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n4-4">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-4">The best side-firearm in '49.--(Lent by J. W. Camper, South Bend, Ind.)</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>We were now on the California-Oregon wagon road, and, in the course of a few days, met another party from the diggings.  This was made up of returning Oregonians, led by General Palmer, a former "Hoosier."  Again we were favored with a rose-colored picture of "the chunks so mighty big."  A member of the party--a physician--inquired whether we had any saleratus to spare, basing his inquiry upon the assumption that we had laid in a goodly supply from the deposits back on the Sweetwater.  When he found we were unable to accommodate him, he was kind enough to inform us that the article was of good quality, and was worth sixteen dollars a pound in the mines; information that came a little late-to be of much value to us.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<P>Somewhere in this section a squad of Diggers<ANCHOR ID="n4-5">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-5">The male Diggers of California, at that day, usually went entirely nude only as they might have happened to don a hat, a shirt, or some other castaway garment of the whites that they had picked up.  The squaws wore from the waist to a little below the knees a sort of skirt made of tanned skins, doubled the longer way, and all except the width of about two inches for a waist-belt, cut into "shoe-strings," with shellsand other ornaments dangling at the nether ends.  The strings of this skirt, or cincture, were sometimes elaborately plaited or woven, and decorated with beads, colored grasses, and various kinds of plumage.  The women generally wore what Prof. O. T. Mason described as "the daintiest cap in the world, a hemispherical bowl of basketry made of tough fibre twined with the greatest nicety and embroidered in black, brown, and yellow."</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>Mention has already been made of the Feather River Meadows, or the Big Meadows, as now known.  It was here, it will be remembered, that game was found so plenty, and that Neal brought in seven blacktail deer, and I none.  The camp was a truly desirable one in every respect,--grass luxuriant and abundant; timber plenty and convenient; a copious stream of cold, clear, pure water; majestic mountains roundabout; and, withal, a veritable hunter's paradise.  We availed ourselves of these rare advantages for several days, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FAIL TO RECOGNIZE "A MAN AND A BROTHER."</P>
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032.sgm:but mainly with the view to prepare for the exigencies that we were forewarned were immediately to follow.  For from this point to the Sacramento Valley, some seventy-five miles, the country was, practically speaking, destitute of both feed and water.  Over much of this distance, the track crept along on the crest of a very narrow, tortuous divide, or hogback, between two streams <illus entity="a032-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A DIGGER BELLE.--(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH.)</P>
032.sgm:buried down in dark, precipitous canyons, more than two thousand feet deep.  At one point, the crest became so obstructed with craggy, beetling ledges that it could not be followed at all; thus necessitating the deflection of the trail through a deep hollow, at the bottom of which we were compelled to encamp for the night, without feed or water for our stock, and with only the sage-brush of days agone for fuel.<ANCHOR ID="n4-6">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-6">Here, where it was bad enough in all conscience to have to remain a single night, a month or so later, a party of emigrants, including several families, were snowed in and compelled to remain during the entire winter.  Among these, were the Reverend William Roberts and family, whose unhappy experiences while thus imprisoned I heard detailed from their own lips.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>Rockhill, in spite of the darkness, and by dint of heroic effort, succeeded in picking his way to the creek<ANCHOR ID="n4-7">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: at the bottom of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-7">Deposits of rich auriferous gravel were afterward discovered on this stream,--Deer Creek.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>It fell to Neal to take a day at the whip on this exceptional stretch of road.  Now, courage and composure under difficulties had little part in Neal's composition.  He was always quick to yield the whip to some one else when a bad or dangerous piece of road occurred.  But in this instance he had no alternative.  I had been taking his relief, as well as my own, for several days consecutively, and, on that morning, stoutly demurred to doing so longer.  The sequel was not at all beatifying--to Neal.  What with the sharp ridge, the quick curves, the sudden jogs, the obtruding rocks, and the dizzy precipices, he was kept in a constant ferment of fright and excitement.  Whipping from one side of the team to the other, and punching the wheel-oxen this way or that, as some dreaded object appeared, constituted his chief diversion for the day.  I was trudging along, mute and stolid, behind the wagon, while the most of this grotesque shuttle-cock performance was going on.  Neal demanded that I do the punching on one side while he did it on the other; but I was obdurate, protesting that I had asked him for no help when I was in similar straits, and that now he need ask no help from me.  The result was, that I was the recipient of much fervid attention at his hands, as he rushed back and forth past me on his frantic rounds.  Meanwhile, Rockhill came bowling along in our immediate rear with our other team, with his oxen mated hit or miss as usual, and exhibiting the utmost unconcern as to whether his team or himself was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<P>We laid in as much hay and water at the Meadows as we were able to carry.  Others, of course, took the same precaution.  But the supply necessarily fell much short of being adequate, and the strain upon the stock was so great that much of it perished.  A train from Columbus, Ohio, were compelled on this account to abandon all their wagons, fifteen in number, and of course the most of their goods, when within less than twenty miles of the Sacramento Valley.  Our teams, however, bore up heroically until the worst was over and we were coursing along smoothly upon the bosom of the great valley.  But the last straw, so to speak, broke the camel's back.  We still had eight to ten miles to water and a camping place.  Several of the oxen became exhausted, and one after another sank down in the yoke.  We had no recourse but to abandon them where they lay, and reconstruct our teams as best we could.  Thus we worried our way to camp.  We were delighted, the next morning, to find the oxen we had left behind grazing upon the wild oats with the rest of the cattle, as if nothing had happened.  The coolness of the night had so refreshed them that they became able to follow us to feed and to water.  Many of the outfits improvised from the salvage of the wrecks on the plains, similar to our own, but worse, would have been quite amusing, had they not told so serious a story.  It was no uncommon thing to see emigrants--perhaps families--come in off the plains having all their worldly effects that they had been able <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"D--N THE HUMBOLDT!"</P>
032.sgm:<P>This camp was at Lassen's ranch, where Peter Lassen had erected a log cabin, and was keeping a small stock of staple goods.  This was the first sign of civilization we had seen for many a day.  It was a motley scene of emigrants, Indians, old-time Californians, etc., that greeted our vision.  Not many rods away flowed the poetic river--the Sacramento,--of whose "glittering sands" we had sung upon leaving home.  We were not long in hastening down to gaze upon its crystal, magic waters.  It was a moment of strange, deep, soul-stirring emotions as we first stepped upon its banks.  Was this indeed our journey's end?--this the goal of our many weary days, weeks, and months of toil, privation, peril?  Had we undergone some Pythagorian transformation of soul, we could scarce have felt more strange, fanciful, etherial.  The eleventh day of October!  Yes, seven months and nineteen days since we began the journey.  It had been a truly eventful period in life's brief span; an episode of quaint, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<P>We had been singing, as already mentioned, of the "glittering sands" of the Sacramento.  We were now, of course, anxious to verify our long-cherished anticipations.  There, surely enough, were "glittering sands" dazzling upon the eye, as the current whirled the flaky particles over and over in the sunlight.  Were these particles gold?--were these really the "sands" we were to gather with wash-bowls on our knees?  We would fain believe, but could not trust our senses.  Captain Horrell had been to us a sort of Sir Oracle in all things.  The Captain, moreover, had been a diligent student in geology and mineralogy all the way out.  We envied him his knowledge in these now practical sciences.  He would have, we were sure, much the advantage of us in discovering and identifying the precious stuff.  The Captain was, therefore, at once besought to enlighten us as to the composition of these drifting atoms.  The moment his ready eye was focused upon the sparkling objects, he exclaimed, with an air of perfect assurance: "Oh, yes; those are gold; but the particles are too fine to pay to gather them."  It turned out that the bright flakes were simply scales of mica, mingled with the other ingredients of disintegrated granite, of which substances the lower bottoms of the river are almost wholly composed.</P>
032.sgm:<P>We were still fifty to sixty miles from the point where we decided to locate,--Redding's Diggings.  A conspicuous landmark on this short journey was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:great white dome of Shasta Butte.  Rising directly in our front, and far overtopping all the other peaks and ranges within our scope of vision, it constantly challenged attention, though we were at no time less than seventy to eighty miles away.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Behold the dread Mount Shasta, where it stands<LB>Imperial midst the lesser heights; and, like<LB>Some mighty impassioned mind, companionless<LB>And cold."<LB></HI>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SHASTA BUTTE.--(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH.)</P>
032.sgm:<P>This huge pile is said to be visible from Monte Diablo--two hundred and fifty miles, "as the crow flies;" and, today, "from the dome of the capitol at Sacramento, it meets the eye of many a gazer who knows not its name or the great distance it lies to the north.  The mariner on the ocean can see it, and emigrants on the parched deserts of Nevada have traveled toward it day after day, an infallible guide to lead them on to the land of gold."  Little wonder, therefore, that the "Poet of the Sierras," standing on the summit of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:monarch of the mountains, in a presence suggestive of the thunderbolt, the volcano, the avalanche, and the earthquake, should thus give wing to his fancy:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I stood where thunderbolts were wont<LB>To smite thy Titan-fashioned front;<LB>I heard large mountains rock and roll;<LB>I saw the lightning's gleaming rod<LB>Reach forth and smite on heaven's scroll<LB>The awful autograph of God."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>We pitched our camp at the extreme head of the Sacramento Valley, upon very nearly, if not exactly, the site of the present town of Redding.  These mines were known as "dry diggings," which were worked chiefly with pick, spoon, and pan, there being no water convenient to run the rocker or the long-tom.  The diggings, so fer as our experience went, "panned out" decidedly "dry" indeed.  During our week's trial, we averaged hardly a dollar a day to the man; and our geological and mineralogical expert did no better than the rest of the party.  My first experience was to prospect a "pot-hole," which I discovered in winding my way up the dry bed of a gulch, which had been scooped and swirled out through a hard granite ledge.  I imagined that the nuggets, in being swept down the channel during freshets, would surely have lodged in a receptacle so convenient and befitting, and wondered that so promising a "lay-out" had not been discovered before.  The pot-hole, or pocket, proved to be shaped like an inverted balloon; and it took a half day's vigorous, feverish labor at my hands to reach the bottom, when with bated breath I discovered--well, not even so much as the "color."  Any experienced miner would have known beforehand that such would be the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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032.sgm:<P>We were informed that at Sacramento--everybody called it Sacramento <HI REND="italics">City</HI>
032.sgm: in those days--sixteen dollars per cord was the current price paid for wood-chopping; and being all of us accustomed to the woods and the ax, we at once decided to head for that point, which was about a hundred and seventy-five miles distant.  Good had rejoined us since our arrival off the plains, and was at the time away prospecting with ex-Governor Redding and party.  But we were too impatient of delay to await his return.  By arrangement, Neal and I started ahead on foot, and Rockhill was to follow with the team.  The Sacramento River was forded a short distance above the mouth of Antelope Creek, both as we went up and as we returned.  Near the ford, we were treated to a California <HI REND="italics">rodeo</HI>
032.sgm:, or round-up, with the accompanying process of cattle-branding, which was the first exhibition of that sort we had ever seen.  The vaqueros appeared all to be trained Indians.  A calf would be singled out from the herd and pursued by several of the vaqueros, each swinging his coiled lariat over his head, and yelling with the vehemence of true savagery.  The animal was soon ensnared about the head or the neck from opposite sides by two of the horsemen, when a third horseman came up from the rear and threw a noose around the hind legs.  The three lariats, each secured to the pommel of a saddle, were now drawn taut in different directions, which threw the victim, and held <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:it securely while the branding-iron ( <HI REND="italics">heirro</HI>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OLD-TIME CALIFORNIA VAQUERO.</P>
032.sgm:<P>At about this point, the rainy season began, and began in earnest.  In a few days the most of the streams were out of their banks, and the valley had become next to impassable for teams.  Neal and I, however, worried our way forward till we reached Long's Bar, on Feather River.  We found a state of things here far from comforting.  The river was a roaring torrent, and the ferry-boat had been swept away and drowned the ferryman the day before our arrival.  The camp was made up chiefly of emigrants, and was very nearly destitute of provisions.  The most of the teams had been sent to Sacramento for winter supplies; but the floods and bottomless roads had made it impossible for them to return.  We had expected to meet a home acquaintance at this camp, which had aroused in us vivid conceptions of "square meals" and other bodily comforts.  But, when within a mile or two of the place, we met that same acquaintance hobbling up the mountain side.  He had a gun on his shoulder; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>We arranged that I should push forward to Sacramento, and that he should follow in four days.  I, accordingly, took our cash balance and struck out for the city, afoot and alone.  The first night out, I made my camp under a friendly oak, without fire or food.  It rained almost continuously during the whole trip.  My only protection was a pair of Mackinac blankets.  These I threw over my shoulders to protect me from the rain by day, and I rolled up in them to sleep the best I could by night.  All the ferry-boats on the river were adrift, so that I was unable to cross for several days.  Very opportunely, I came upon a party of three men, who with their team were detained on account of the condition of the roads.  They were from Michigan.  Their stock of provisions consisted of flour, and flour only.  This they made into mush, which they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:their oxen in the mire, dead.  The couple were headed for the mines with their winter's stock of provisions, and were thus hopelessly stranded.  The road was strewn with many evidences of similar sad experiences.  I must myself have cut a ludicrous, if not a pitiable, figure, as I went plashing along through the rain and mud and slush, with my blankets over me, my boots across my shoulder, my pants rolled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:up to my knees, my white wool hat gone to seed clown-fashion, and myriads of ducks, geese, and brants quawking and flapping their wings over my head.  But,-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Come what come may,<LB>Time and the hour runs through the roughest day."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>The American River was at length reached.  It took my last two-bits--a dime and a Spanish shilling--for ferriage; so that I entered Sacramento in a worse predicament than Doctor Franklin's when he entered Philadelphia,--had no pennies for loaves, to say nothing of a whistle.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>V.</HEAD>
032.sgm:<P>STRANGE SCENES AND EXPERIENCES. THE appearance of Sacramento was truly unique.  Nearly or quite all the buildings were made of canvas tacked upon poles.  It was practically at the head of navigation on the Sacramento River, and was thus the entrepot for the central and the northern mines.  All was intense bustle and excitement.  A very hotly contested election<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">Held on November 13, when members of Congress were elected and a complete State government was set up, in pursuance of a constitution framed and adopted by the people, without authorization by Congress, the only instance of the sort in our history.  The firm stand taken in this constitution for freedom was, as noticed incidentally by Gen. Bidwell in a letter to the writer, the first decisive event in that series of momentous historic movements that ultimately culminated in the destruction of slavery and the fruition of a united and homogeneous country.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Extremes of habits, manners, time, and space,<LB>Brought close together, here stood face to face;<LB>And gave at once a contrast to the view,<LB>That other lands and ages never knew."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>It was surprising to note the facility with which men adapted themselves to the new conditions.  A physician of my acquaintance I found engaged in draying.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SACRAMENTO IN '49.--(REDRAWN FROM "CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED," G. V. COOPER, DEL., 1849; COPYRIGHT BY J. M. LETTS, NEW YORK, 1852.)</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:The lawyer, who had so gallantly come to my defense back on the plains, greeted me from the top of a high rick of sacked flour, which he was crying off at auction.  A preacher, who had parted with us early on the route, because we sometimes traveled of Sundays when we did not have suitable camping places to lay over, had changed the pulpit for the saloon.  <illus entity="a032-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FROM A PHOTOGRAPH. SEE PAGE 90.</P>
032.sgm:There was little leisure for choosing an occupation; the first opportunity offered had to be laid hold of, for a time at least.  My first and only job in the city lacked much of being to my fancy.  Since leaving my Michigan friends on the Feather River, I had had nothing to eat.  My appetite, therefore, had become so keenly whetted that I took my place among the guests at the first table I saw, taking my chances as to what might follow.  This was at Knight's Hotel, probably the best of its kind in the city, though constructed of canvas, like the rest of the makeshifts about it.  One of the proprietors stood in the door to attend to the guests as they departed.  This rendered the situation a little ominous for me; but, after fully satisfying my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:innerman, I at once approached this dignitary as an applicant for work.  He quickly responded, "Yes; have you had your dinner?"  I replied that I had.  He thereupon immediately put a man in his place, and bid me follow him to the boat-landing, where I shouldered up several rough boards and packed them to the rear of the hotel.  Here, clad in dirty red flannel shirts and blue overalls, and lying upon a board outdoors, exposed to the pelting rain, were the remains of two miners.  I was set at work making two boxes from the boards I had carried up for the burial of these bodies; and that is the way I paid for my dinner.  The spectacle, as well as the job, was far from delectable, especially as I was at the time afflicted with the same complaint of which these poor fellows had died.  <illus entity="a032-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FROM A PHOTOGRAPH. SEE FOOT-NOTE, PAGE 89.</P>
032.sgm:Dysentery of a malignant type was prevalent; and, as the doctors had not learned how to treat the disease as modified by that environment, the mortality from this cause was very great.  Later, such gruesome spectacles, I was told, were of everyday occurrence about this establishment; so common indeed as no longer to invoke coffin, winding-sheet, or ceremony of of any sort, save the dray and spade, as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S FORT, 1849.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:carcass of a dog would be treated.  Many of these, no doubt, were well-to-do at the far-away home, where all the cherished endearments of family and friends were awaiting their return; but, it may be, that the recording angel alone will know of their hapless end on earth.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"How little do we know of what we are,<LB>How less, of what we may be!"<LB></HI>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S FORT, 1890.--(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH.)</P>
032.sgm:<P>Two miles from the Sacramento, and east of the city, was the famous Sutter's Fort,<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: which up to that season had been the terminus of the only overland wagon trail entering California, and which for nearly a decade had been the focal point of the American residents of the country.  Hence, probably, the name of the river near by,--Rio de los Americanos.  The fort was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">General John Bidwell, of Chico, Cal., a pioneer of '41, who was long connected with this fort as Sutter's general manager, and who retains a vivid recollection of its plan in detail, has kindly furnished me with an outline sketch and other valuable data to aid in the drawing of this cut, which he upon examining the proof pronounces substantially correct and a much truer picture than any of the many others that had come to his notice.  I revisited the site of this fort in 1884, and was pained to note that the central two-story adobe building was all that remained of this monument of a unique and picturesque past.  This, too, was wholly neglected and in an advanced state of decay.  A more appreciative public, however, has quite recently restored the whole structure, of which I have received a photograph since I wrote the foregoing.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>The wood-chopping project not turning out as expected, I again set face for the mines, a friend having loaned me the wherewith for the purpose.  I did not wait for Neal, and it was well that I did not; for he drifted elsewhere, and I saw him no more.  Nor did I again meet Rockhill until I met him at home, seven years thereafter.  I then, for the first time, learned of his fate after we separated at Redding's.  He had not been able, in consequence of the floods, to get the team any farther than Deer Creek, where he left all the property in charge of a ranchman, one Colonel Anthony Davis; and, in the Spring, when an accounting was sought, both ranchman and property had disappeared, not again to be found.<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3">A statement which I was pleased to have verified thirty-five years later, through my accidental meeting of the ranehman's widow in another and distant part of the state.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>I now headed for Coloma, about fifty-five miles distant, of course still "tramping" it.  At all stations along the road, beginning with the Ten Mile House, meals were two dollars each.  The lodging <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:accommodations were overtaxed at every point.  At Shingle Springs, I paid a dollar for the privilege of lodging in a covered cart, in company with a barrel of pork.  It was raining hard, and that was the only alternative.  Of course one had to furnish his own bedding in those days, no matter where he might lodge.  <illus entity="a032-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE TYPICAL OLD-TIMER.</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n5-4">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: The roads were so wretched that supplies could be got to the mines only by pack-animals.  A dollar per pound was the customary rate to Coloma and to Hangtown, which were about the same distance from Sacramento.  Gold dust was the universal currency, and the "blower"<ANCHOR ID="n5-5">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: and the scales were a fixture in every place of business.  The weights were often home-made, and of very dubious specific gravity.  The monte and the faro tables were everywhere running flush.  The gambling table indeed is the chief attraction in all new mining regions.  The most pretentious and most elegantly furnished quarters, whether tents by the roadside or palaces in a city, are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-4">The "Panama" hat, silk sash, embroidered shirt, and absence of vest and coat--somewhat after the Mexican style--made up a costume much affected in those days; and was the object of awe and admiration of the "tenderfoot," who looked upon the chaps thus pompously clad as being already surfeited with the precious dust.  Everybody had also a penchant for gibbering Spanish.  The typical miner, as usually represented in the prints, is mere caricature, the shabby clothes and the unkempt person being no more than the natural result of the neglect and indifference that men drop into in the absence of society everywhere.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-5">A shallow sort of tray, usually of tin, triangular-shaped, with one corner open, used to blow black sand and other foreign substances from gold dust, and to handle the dust about the scales</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Could fools to keep their own contrive,<LB>On what, on whom, could gamesters thrive?"</HI>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0053" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE DISCOVERER OF GOLD AT SUTTER'S MILL.</P>
032.sgm:<P>My first halt was at a double-log house, on the Sacramento-Coloma road, a mile or two west of the latter place.  It was called the "Mountaineers' Home," and was a sort of tavern and trading-post combined.  My chief occupation while here was cutting house logs at a dollar each and wood at five dollars per cord, the latter from brittle and crooked oaks.  Board was six dollars per day, the sumptuous fare consisting of bacon, beans, coffee, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:musty-soggy-buggy-wormy bread.  Flour was two dollars per pound, and a villainous article at that, the most of it having made the voyage round Cape Horn and heated in the ship's hold.  Potatoes were eight dollars per pound, the chief use to which they were put being as a cure for scurvy, which complaint was then quite common.  The locality was in the very heart of the best diggings in California, but we did not know this at the time.  We often picked up good-sized nuggets in the door-yard after a heavy rain; but it did not occur to any of us to prospect for diggings, either there or anywhere else in the flat of several acres in which the cabin was situated.  <illus entity="a032-0054" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FROM A PHOTOGRAPH.</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n5-6">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: My recollections of the place are cherished none the more because of the presence of a victim of delirium tremens, who imagined that he was in hell suffering the torments of the damned, while just beyond him, in plain view, was heaven, with the angels in the full ecstacy of bliss.  Another incident of the place <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:may be worth relating, as indicative of the social state of the time.  One evening, as we were sitting about our generous chimney-fire, a guest dropped in upon us for the night.  He was a striking character--young, dark complexioned, dashing, of splendid physique, and of pleasing, cultured address.  <illus entity="a032-0055" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FROM A PHOTOGRAPH. SEE FOOT-NOTE, PAGE 93.</P>
032.sgm:He was partly dazed from the effects of drink, but in an easy, nonchalant manner, gave us his story, in brief as follows: He had belonged, he said, to a detachment of United States regulars, which was crossing the plains that season to Oregon.  When near the junction of the California and Oregon roads, he took French leave, and, appropriating two of the best army horses, had made his way to the Golden State.  Just now, he had emerged from the culminating scene in a series of other adventures.  There were many cattle roaming at will on the plains about Sacramento that winter, and wagons and other team appurtenances were easy of access about the city.  From these sources he became possessed of a four-ox team, on the same principle that he had become possessed of the two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:Government horses.  Thus equipped, he sought and obtained a load of freight for the mines, for which he was to receive a dollar per pound for transportation.  But he diverted from the proper destination, and fetched up at Mormon Island, where he sold both team and goods, and pocketed the proceeds.  He next turned up at Coloma.  Here he fell in with a German, who was about to leave for <HI REND="italics">Das Vaterland</HI>
032.sgm:, and who was fond of displaying a bulky purse of nuggets, with which he intended to set the crowds abroad agape.  The upshot was: the German missed his nuggets, and his new-made friend was accused, tried in a "people's court," convicted, and sentenced to a hundred lashes, half to be given at once, and the rest after a week's respite.  <illus entity="a032-0056" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FROM A PHOTOGRAPH. SEE FOOT-NOTE PAGE 93.</P>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-6">Henry W. Bigler, St. George, Utah; Azariah Smith, Manti, Utah; and James S. Brown and William Johnson, Salt Lake City, Utah, all Mexican War veterans, and ex-members of the famous Mormon Battalion, which was mustered out in California, in 1848, are the only survivors of the gold discovery party now known to me.  Peter L. Wimmer, of San Diego, Cal; and Wilford Hudson, of Grantsville, Utah, also of that party, were living, according to "The Century," in 1891; but I do not know whether they are living now--1895.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>Coloma, as is well known, is located on the South Fork of the American River, and is distinguished historically as the place where, on January 24, 1848, James W. Marshall, in examining the tail-race of the Sutter sawmill, made the gold discovery, which set the world ablaze, and was so far-reaching and momentous in its results.  I saw the mill many times.  It was of the old-fashioned, flutter-wheel, sash-saw model,<ANCHOR ID="n5-7">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-7">I have been at considerable pains to get an accurate picture of this mill, having had before me several cuts said to have been been sketched on the spot from the original, among which is the print in "California Illustrated," by G. V. Cooper, and a pencil sketch by C. B. Gillespie.  I have also availed myself of suggestions from Gillespie, H. W. Bigler, St. George, Utah, and Azariah Smith, Manti, Utah, the latter two of whom assisted Marshall in building the mill.  The conspicuous forebay in the Nahl design, as printed in "The Century," appears to be merely an embellishment by the artist; for the water entered the mill from the front or east side, and not from the right or north side.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Yet, the years may chase each other<LB>Down the rugged steeps of time<LB>The world may lose its harmony.<LB>Life's song its merry rhyme;<LB>But forever and forever<LB>The story of the mill<LB>And the man who dug the mill-race.<LB>Will linger with us still."</HI>
032.sgm:<LB></P>
032.sgm:<P>Marshall's discovery at the mill was not, it appears, the result of mere accident.  The water-wheel had been set too low, and the water was being let into the tail-race of nights to cut out the channel so as to free the wheel.  It was Marshall's custom to walk along the race in the morning, after the water had been shut <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0057" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S MILL, SCENE OF THE GOLD DISCOVERY.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:off, so as to give the men directions in the work.  On the day previous to the discovery, a section of bed-rock in the race, laid bare by the water, excited his curiosity; and, calling one of his men<ANCHOR ID="n5-8">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: to him, he, after drawing attention to this queer-looking rock, remarked that he believed there was gold thereabouts, this belief being founded on the fact, he said, that he had noticed the "blossom of gold" (quartz) in the adjacent hills, and that he had read in some book that the presence of quartz was a sign of gold.  So strong was he in this belief that he sent the man to the cabin for a pan, that he might make the test, by washing some of the sand and gravel from the tail-race.  This test was unsuccessful; but the failure did not satisfy Marshall. "Well," he said to his attendant, "we will hoist the gates tonight and let in all the water we can, and tomorrow morning we will shut it off, and come down here, and I believe we will find gold or some other mineral."  As he was a rather eccentric sort of man, no heed was paid to this seeming whim.  But Marshall was in a different frame of mind.  The next morning at an unusually early hour some one was heard pounding at the mill.  It was Marshall.  "There was at the time a carpenter's work-bench standing in the millyard; a little way from it was a saw-pit for whip-sawing lumber; also men at work in the mill-yard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:framing timbers and hewing with a broadaxe.  Near the flutter-wheel there was a large bowlder to be blasted out.  I was at the drill preparing to put in a blast of powder when Marshall came up from the tail-race carrying his slouch hat in his arms, and, setting it on the work-bench, exclaimed: `Boys, I believe I have found a gold mine.'  At once of the men gathered around, and sure enough in the top of his hat, the crown knocked in a little, was the pure stuff in small pieces or rather thin scales.  All knew it was gold, although not one had ever seen the metal before in its natural state."<ANCHOR ID="n5-9">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-8">This man was James S Brown, whose portrait is printed on page 95, and the fact narrated down to the quotation "There was at the time a carpenter's work-bench,"etc., I glean from his interesting pamphlet entitled, "California: An Authentic History of the First Find."  published by himself, Salt Lake City, Utah.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-9">This last quotation is from a letter by Henry W. Bigler to the author dated St. George, Utah, May 31, 1894.  See portrait and note, p. 93.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>The holidays found me at Hangtown, which took its suggestive name from the circumstance that two men--a Frenchman and a Spaniard--were hanged here, for robbery and murder.  The process was in pursuance of the usual miner's code, and occupied but twenty-four hours for its complete execution.  The oak that did duty on the occasion may be seen in the annexed plate, between two buildings, nearly opposite the "El Dorado," from whose tall flag-staff a streamer is flying.  In the fall of '50 the camp was the scene of another hanging-bee, the process being much more summary than that just mentioned.  The subject was "Irish Dick," who killed a man across a gambling table in the "El <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0058" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HANGTOWN.--(AFTER A CUT IN, CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED."</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:Dorado."  The crowd on the inside, in less time than it takes to tell it, seized the wretch and thrust him out the door to the quickly assembled crowd on the outside, when a noose was put about his neck and he was hurried off to the most convenient tree.  The other end of the rope was thrown over a limb and grasped by a number of men, when the fellow was asked if he had anything to say.  He coolly took a monte deck from his vest pocket, and began to shuffle the cards, saying, "If anybody wants to buck, I'll give him a lay-out."  A quick haul upon the cord, and graceless, conscienceless villian dangled in the air.<ANCHOR ID="n5-10">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-10">"Dick" was brought across the plains the previous season by one of my partners, and was a slim strippling of about twenty, thin visaged, and with large, uneven teeth, and a slight Irish accent.  He drew a dirk upon me as we were going up street one evening because of some pleasantry of mine; but I had no thought then that he was capable of murder.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VI.</HEAD>
032.sgm:<P>THE PICK AND SHOVEL AGAIN. HANGTOWN was, at this period, one of the most important mining camps in the State.  Claims were limited to fifteen feet square; so the miners could not work long in a place.  Two men usually formed the ephemeral mining partnerships, as by the methods of mining then in vogue that number could generally work together the most profitably.  The best diggings I "struck" about here were on Hangtown Creek, a half mile below town, where my partner and I took out, for a while, with a long-tom,<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: fifty to a hundred dollars apiece per day.  We also found good mines in Kelsey's Canyon, in which the gold was mainly flax-seed shaped, and of a very uniform and beautiful variety.  The largest piece I ever found was in a "gutted" gulch, in the grease-wood hills, westward of town.  Here, with the first stroke of the pick, I raked out of the clay an ounce chunk, and with the next stroke, one weighing two and a quarter ounces.<ANCHOR ID="n6-2">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: This was certainly encouraging <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:for a beginning; but there was no water near, and the beginning proved also to be well-nigh the end.  But, as a rule, mining, even at that day, could not, by any means, be reckoned a profitable employment.  A lady who kept boarders in Hangtown, in the winter of '49--50, informed me that very few of her boarders paid or were able to pay; and one of these boarders, who applied himself very diligently, owned to me that he had not taken out as much as a quarter of an ounce on any day during the winter.<ANCHOR ID="n6-3">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">The first long-tom I saw was in the spring of '50.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-2">Gold was usually found in small particles, but it ranged from the size of almost impalpable powder up to very large nuggets.  In September, 1871, a piece worth $6,000 was taken out by Bunker &amp;: Co., in the State of Oregon, which perhaps the largest specimen ever found on the Pacific Coast; but we have an account of much larger finds in Australia mines, one discovered in  the Donolly district, in 1869, weighing 2,520 oz. and worth $48,000.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-3">Doubtless many old miners would agree with Brigham Young in the declaration he made to the Colfax party, in 1865, "that every dollar of gold taken out in United States had cost one hundred dollars."</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>The diggings where the large nuggets were found, and where there were several cabins, were entirely deserted at the time of our operations there; as was also Kelsey's Canyon.  The notion generally entertained during the winter of '49-50, was that higher up in the Sierra lay <HI REND="italics">in situ</HI>
032.sgm: the original "big lumps," of which the flakes and other small particles lower down were but the float or waste.  Many were the extravagant yet fully credited rumors whispered about from friend to friend as to the pound-a-day diggings that, up there, invitingly awaited the advent of spring to open up their treasures.  Accordingly, when that longed-for time came round, the real mining belt was almost wholly deserted, in the stampedes for those fancied ophirs.  My partner and I, not to be left napping under such circumstances, were among the very first to break from this camp.  We went by the Carson <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0060" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NEAR THE BACKBONE OF THE SIERRA.--(ADAPTED FORM "PACIFIC TOURIST."</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:emigrant trail as far as Leek Springs, at which point we found ourselves up among the branches of the stately sugar pines, on the crust of the snow, which was so solidly packed that our horses's hoofs made just indentation enough to make it comfortable traveling.  At this point the backbone of the Sierra was in plain view and apparently but a few miles away.  Swathed in winter snows of untold depth, as it now was, this great divide wore most ominous and forbidding aspect, and sent a shudder of awe through the soul as we contemplated its awful majesty:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"With foundations seamed and knit,<LB>And wrought and bound by golden bars,<LB>Sierra's peaks serenely sit<LB>And challenge heaven's sentry-stars."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>Well, it was on the South Fork of the American River, or on a tributary thereto, somewhere in this region, that we were to find a party of miners that had been rolling out the pound chunks the whole winter long.  That is to say, it had confidingly come to our ears that some one had affirmed that he had seen a man who had heard another man say that he knew a fellow who, was dead sure that he knew another fellow who, he was certain, belonged to a party that were thus shoveling up the big chunks--or something to that effect.  We no, of course, knew that we had been hoaxed; yet it was, doubtlessly, all round a case of-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Themselves deceiving and themselves deceived."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>But our frank and earnest avowals as to the facts made not the slightest impression upon the party after party we met on our return, that, having got wind of our slipping away, were on our track, determined upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:sharing in our supposed "good thing."  They became convinced only when they saw the imprints of our horse's hoofs in the snow where we had turned about from our fool's errand.  And, forsooth, such is about as rational a foundation as miners' stampedes have usually had from that day to this.  For, be it known, that of all men the gold-miner is proverbially the readiest-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"To swallow gudgeons ere they're catched,<LB>And count the chickens ere they're hatched."</HI>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n6-4">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-4">The Sun River stampede in Montana, in the fall of 1865, may be cited as a typical instance.  One McClellan had discovered a very rich gulch on the west side of the Range, and had thus acquired considerable fame locally as a prospector.  He was afterward, at the time above-mentioned, leaving Helena with two mules packed with provisions.  A friend accosted him as to his destination.  "Oh," he replied <HI REND="italics">soto voce</HI>
032.sgm:<P>Another notion then widely prevalent was, that, as the river-bars were rich in aurfferous deposits, the river-beds should be much more so, especially in the deep-water stretches between the rapids.  Hence, in the summer of 1850 a large percentage of the miners clubbed together to turn the various rivers of the mining-belt from their beds, at the more favorable points, by means of canals, or flumes, or both, as necessity required.  One such company was organized to drain the South Fork at Spanish Bar, opposite Placerville.  The conditions here, as the theory ran, were precisely what was desired.  Here was the deep-water stretch, and into this emptied the Hangtown and the Kelsey Canyons, both of which were very rich.  On the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0061" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE "EMIGRANT'S" FIRST APPEARANCE IN THE DIGGINGS.</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n6-5">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-5">Adapted from Mark Twain's "Roughing It," by permission of American Publishing Co., Hartford, Conn. See Appendix, p. iv.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>The Indians were frequent visitors at the mining camps in this section.  While the placers were plenty, shallow, and easily worked, they did a good deal of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:spasmomic mining.  The pan and the wooden bowl--the <HI REND="italics">batea</HI>
032.sgm: (bah-ta-a) of the Mexican--were the implements they chiefly used for the purpose.  <illus entity="a032-0062" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"THE NOBLE SAVAGE."</P>
032.sgm:A half dozen or more of them would dig and wash diligently for two to three hours, when they would hie themselves off to the nearest store or trading-post to spend the proceeds.  At the "Mountaineer's Home," we had a frequent customer, who pompously pointed to himself as "me Jim, Alcalde,"<ANCHOR ID="n6-6">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: and who rarely missed an opportunity to impress upon us the dignity of his personage.  Jim evinced a decided partiality for bright calico shirts--at five dollars apiece; for which he appropriated the bulk of the earnings of himself and his handful of followers.  These shirts he would put on, one after another, until he had perhaps a half dozen telescoped over his person at once, never taking the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-6">Al-cal-de is the Spanish equivalent for Justice of of the Mexican regime, the functions and powers exercised by the officials bearing this title were often little, if any, short of absolute.  Hence, to the unrefined Digger perception, as with Jim, alcalde came to be synonymous with "chief," or headman of the tribe or community.  For full history of this office see Shinn's "Mining Camps," New York, 1885.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0063" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MODERN DIGGER BELLE, IN CEREMONIAL COSTUME. (FROM A PHOTOGRAPH.)</P>
032.sgm:<P>One day, the ordinary routine of the Placerville camp was broken by the appearance on the street of an elderly, lean, angular man, who from his wagon proceeded to make a speech and exhibit several ugly gun-shot wounds about the groin.  He soon drew a crowd around him.  It appeared, according to his story, that he had been a participant in the armed collision which had taken place the day previous between the squatters and the anti-squatters at Sacramento, and in which several men had been killed and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:wounded.  The speaker belonged, he said, to the squatters' side and had been attacked and driven off by an armed posse, from whose venegeance he escaped only by plunging into the American River and swimming across beyond their reach.  But he had not quit the field, he declared, without having given his assailants a valiant fight; whereupon some one in the crowd sang out, "What is your name?"  "My name is Allen," he responded.  " You must ge some relation to old Ethan Allen," another spectator suggested.  "Yes:" answered the speaker, "I am a grand-son of the hero of Ticonderoga."  But, notwithstanding this avowal as to "the great Jehovah" blood in his veins, he was, obviously, still very much frightened.  He had traveled all night to make sure of getting out of harm's way, and he now appealed to his hearers to protect him.  At this, of course, everybody present shouted, "We will, we will!" and so the episode ended.<ANCHOR ID="n6-7">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-7">This collision occurred on August 14, 1850, Charles Robinson, the squatter leader, and later Governor of Kansas, being among the wounded.  The contention between the squatters and the anti-squatters, which was a long and serious element of disturbance in the State is treated of at considerable length in Royce's "History of California."</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>Placerville was the first point in the mines reached on the principal overland trail in the season of 1850, and, early in July, the stream of emigrants from this direction began to pour into the camp.  The first arrival was a party from my own town in Indiana--the Fowler brothers--who had made the journey from the Missouri River with an ox team in ninety days.  The rush that season was very great, and soon every avenue was filled with the new recruits.  A more disappointed and disheartened lot of mortals than they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:could scarcely be imagined.  They believed, as did many of the old-timers also, that the diggings had been worked out, and that the whole country had collapsed into utter ruin.  The gloomy outlook was further aggravated by the prevalence of much sickness, which, at this camp, was owing largely to the stagnant, polluted water, which was mostly obtained from the abandoned prospect-holes, of which the streets were full.  I was myself taken with typhoid fever several weeks prior to the first arrivals overland, and did not recover so as to be able to work till this camp and the neighboring sections had become overcrowded with the newcomers.  <illus entity="a032-0064" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WOMAN'S CINCTURE, HOOPA INDIAN MAKE.</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n6-8">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: An ounce<ANCHOR ID="n6-9">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-8">Reproduced by permission from Smithsonian Report for 1886, Part I.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-8">The current trade value of gold dust up to September, 1848, was $12 per oz., at which date the merchants of San Francisco, in a public meeting, fixed the value at $16 per oz, and, though the actual average value, as determined by assays, was not far from $18 per oz. the rating established by the merchants was universally accepted as the standard while I was in California, and perhaps for years thereafter.  See Hittell, "History of California."</NOTE>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>In the latter part of August, Good arrived in Placerville from the Trinity diggings.  He had come to this congested labor market to employ men to work for his firm--Brown, Pfouts &amp; Co.--in that remote section, where the evil effects from the emigration had not been, and were not likely to be, seriously felt.  He soon engaged about thirty men, at three dollars per day and board.  When we were going up the Sacramento Valley, the fall before, we met hundreds of men coming from these same mines, cursing them as utterly worthless; yet, as a matter of fact, the yield here was about as good as anywhere else in California.  And thus we found it everywhere--some coming, some going; some praising, some damning.</P>
032.sgm:<P>Through Good's representations, I accompanied him,<ANCHOR ID="n6-10">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: driving an ox team as far as Shasta, which was the end of the wagon road in that direction, and which was but a few miles from the scene of our first mining exploitations.  We had now to pack the rest of the distance, some seventy miles, to the head of the Big Canyon on the Trinity, where we proposed to locate till the setting in of winter.  Upon arriving at our destination, I at once struck ounce diggins, on a small sandy bar, near the river's edge; and one afternoon I scooped up eighty dollars out of the water, from the top of a bed of loose sand, inside of an abandoned coffer-dam.  The gold was all fine scales, and was obviously a quite recent deposit.  Kendrick and D. K. Wall bailed out the water while I did the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-10">The two Wall brothers, D. K. and John D., of South Bend, Ind., and B. F. Kendrick, of Rochester, Ind., were also of the party as traveling companions.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0065" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PROSPECTING IN THE TRINITY REGION.</P>
032.sgm:<P>The Trinity abounded with salmon.  Every morning there was a school of them inside the coffer-dam near by; and, with a few moments' work closing up the mouth of the dam with cobbles stones, the fish were easily caught by the gills and tail, with the hand, as with their heads poked into the openings of the stones, they were wriggling to escape.  I thus supplied myself with a superabundance of this "poor man's meat."  On one occasion I saw a large specimen wriggling itself spasmodically to cross a riffle in the North Fork, where the water was scarcely deep enough to cover half its body.  I crippled it with a stone, when it whirled over on its side and was floating away, as I caught it.  Many were badly bruised from contact with the rocks when flinging themselves into the air in forcing the rapids.  I saw one crazed in this way shoot across the river twice, the last time landing at nearly full length on the bank, where it was secured.  Frequently, too, they were seen with one or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>In the course of a month or two, the approach of winter caused an almost total abandonment of the river.  One day, I went down through the canyon to the Big Bar.  This had been the largest mining camp on the river; but I now found it totally deserted.  The utensils, implements, and camp debris of various sorts, not excepting bottles, were strewn about the brush shanties as if the occupants had decamped in a panic.  Weaverville was the only camp west of the Coast Range that bore any semblance of a town, and to this point, as a winter quarters, flocked about everybody that intended to remain over winter in that region.  I clung to my claim a fortnight or so, after the river below me had been wholly deserted, and when the nearest civilized habitation above me was six miles away, at Canyon Creek, where a sort of store was kept, and where, of Sundays, I obtained my week's supplies.  On either side of the river, for practically an illimitable distance, the wild beasts and savages still held their pristine sway.  It was a very imprudent thing for me to do; but there had been no trouble with the Indians up to that time, and I did not realize the danger to which I was exposed.  The spot, too, was not at all a blithesome or an inspiring one; for all about me sharp, cragged mountains pressed one upon another, while immediately behind my little tent a sheer mountain wall, dark and frowning with its heavy growth of firs, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0066" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE AUTHOR COMMUNES WITH SOLITUDE.</P>
032.sgm:<P>I, at length, followed the crowd to Weaverville.  Here, about a mile from town, between Ten Cent Gulch and East Weaver Creek, among the pines, I put up for myself an eight-by-twelve log cabin, with shake roof, and generous stick chimney.  The mountain lions were very numerous in the vicinity, as their nightly serenades kept me constantly reminded; but, with a strong door securely pinned, I felt amply assured against any undue instrusions on their part.  I did happen, however, on one occasion, to meet one of their lordships on a trail in the thick chaparral, east of town.  I hardly need add that I was quite ready to yield him the right of way, had he not, through his superior nimbleness, extended me that courtesy first.  A young man, who had come from my county in Indiana, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:whom I had never met there, came to my cabin here sometime during the winter, claiming that he was not able to support himself because of a crippled back.  He was a body-maker by trade, and was very glib in recounting his travels and experiences, perhaps in contrast to my conscious rustic simplicity.  I shared my mite with him for six to eight months, and as a reward he generously taught me to use tobacco.  The camp was by no means a live one; so that the breaking out of the Scott River excitement, toward the close of winter, was hailed as a timely relief, and it precipitated a general rush from Weaverville thitherward.  Good happened to be in Weaverville with his pack-train at the time, and was employed to remove several stocks of goods from this point to Scott's Bar, for which service he received a dollar per pound, the distance being not far from a hundred miles.<ANCHOR ID="n6-11">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0067" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HEAD OF A CALIFORNIA LION.</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n6-12">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-11">Good's firm also located on this bar where they kept a trading-post and carried on mining, and where Good, in a letter, now before me, dated Sacramento, June 1, 1851, writes that he had the "biggest luck" mining he had had in California.  His partner, Joseph H. Brown, took out "near $5,000" in two days, this including a nugget, "clear of quartz--nothing but virgin gold," and "worth at $16 per oz. $3,140."</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-12">Reproduced from Roosevelt's "The Wilderness Hunter," by permission of G. P. Putnam's Sons, publishers, New York and London.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>I did not join in the exodus, but early in the spring returned to the Trinity, now locating on Reading's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:Besides, the carrying of the heavy buckets produced physical distortion, making one round-shouldered in a short time.  In view of this unsatisfactory state of things, a party of us conceived the project of carrying the water to the dirt, instead of the dirt to the water, as was being done.  A ditch from Weaver Creek to the bar would solve the problem.  The idea was entirely feasible.  The ditch need not be more than a mile or so long; the excavating could be done with the pick and shovel; the volume of water was more than ample; and as for head, it was only a question as to how far we should ascend the creek whether we should have barely enough or a thousand feet to spare.  With this encouraging outlook, we began the work.  The senior member undertook the part of engineer, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>A Digger raid was the next notable event of the camp.  All the horses of the vicinity, to the "unlucky" number of thirteen, were herded by two men at a stipulated price per head, and were carefully looked after during the day and closely corralled at night.  The corral was situated just across the river, opposite the head of the bar.  As a further precaution against the well-known partiality of the Diggers for equine feasts, the tent in which the men lodged was pitched immediately by the only entrance to the enclosure.  Yet, in spite of all this care, the men awoke one luckless morning to find the bars let down and not a hoof in sight.  The cause was at once divined--the Diggers had got in their work.  A party from the bar were soon on the trail.  The thieves, it was found, had set out with their booty to the eastward, but after awhile veered around to the westward.  Whatever may have been the motive for taking this circuitous, out-of-the-way course, whether to divert suspicion from themselves at the expense of others of their kind, or to embarrass and elude pursuit, it was a ruse they had long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:successfully practised.  In this instance, however, it failed to subserve either of these purposes.  At a distance of about thirty miles by the route taken, over a sinuous, wearisome mountain trail, the marauders were completely surprised at their rancheria (ran-che-re-a) and several of their number made to bite the dust.  A deep, hidden ravine across their front partially foiled a charge upon their position, and enabled the rest to escape.  One horse only, and that the sorriest of the lot, was recovered.  <illus entity="a032-0069" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CALIFORNIA WOLF.--(REDRAWN FROM C. NAHL, IN "HUTCHINS' CALIFORNIA MAGAZINE," 1858.)</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VII.</HEAD>
032.sgm:<P>DIGGER VENGEANGE--HUMBOLDT BAY. ANOTHER collision of a somewhat more serious nature with the same band of savages, followed close upon the Hay Fork affair, just detailed.  The party, on their return from the Digger horse-thief expedition, reported that the section they had visited bore excellent auriferous indications, and that from appearances it had never before been penetrated by the whites.  Accordingly, a party of ten of us was at once made up to test those indications; and, horses being now a rare commodity at the bar, we took the necessary traps together with five days' rations, upon our backs, and set out in high spirits for the promised new El Dorado.  Several of the former party were among our number, to pilot the way, and of course to share in our expected good fortune.  Strangely enough, our only thought was of diggings, not of Diggers.  Two rifles, a shotgun, and perhaps a half dozen Allen "pepperboxes"<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:comprised our equipment of weapons offensive and defensive, all told.  We made our first camp where we first struck the Hay Fork.  Our savory repast of bread, bacon, and coffee was soon disposed of, when each man rolled up in his blankets for the night, utterly oblivious as to any possible danger.  The next morning, bright and early, our frugal breakfast was over, and we were pushing our way down the stream.  <illus entity="a032-0070" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CALIFORNIA LYNX.--(REDRAWN FROM C. NAHL, IN "HUTCHINS' CALIFORNIA MAGAZINE," 1858,</P>
032.sgm:Presently, the site of the encounter with the Diggers a few days before was pointed out to us on the opposite side of the river, all now silent and lifeless as the grave.  But we still took no forebodings from the situation.  We were delighted with the prospect that opened up before us.  The mountains swung away from the stream to the right and in front, leaving a space of several thousand acres intervening.  This space was comparatively open and level, and was carved into a series of gentle, grass-clad undulations, which here and there sloped away into rich, alluvial bottoms, and through which, at frequent intervals, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:bright, sparkling rivulets came plashing down from their mountain sources.  The general surface was sparsely dotted with low, heavy-topped oaks, while the higher points were crowned with dark-green tufts of firs and pines, the whole being bordered about by sombrous, massive mountains, as if to complete the picture.  We had so long been cooped up in the narrow mountain confines that we now felt that we had room to breathe full and free once more.  Yet, withal, how inscrutuable seemed the order of Providence, that the stolid, "untutored" Digger should until now alone have been privileged to look upon this scene of primeval beauty, one of the masterpieces of the great Artist!  Thus, ages upon ages,-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Summers and winters came and went,<LB>Bring no change of scene;<LB>Unresting, unhasting, and unspent,<LB>Dwelt Nature her serene."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>But we had little leisure for indulging in the &aelig;sthetic or the sentimental, and were soon scattered out among the gulches, intent upon the more prosaic business in hand.  I had wandered away from the rest of the party perhaps a quarter of mile, when I was startled by an unearthly noise bursting upon my ears.  Glancing up, my eyes fell upon a Digger in uncomfortable proximity to where I was standing, and a further glance beyond revealed a dark, swarming mass of redskins on a mountain bench, not more than a half mile away.  Their wild, frenzied whoops, yells, and contortions left no doubt as to their animus.  I paused for no further hints.  On the contrary, never before in my life, did I so thank my stars for suppleness of joint, lightness of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0071" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WOMEN'S CAPS.<ANCHOR ID="n7-2">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<P>Pursuit, we thus saw, would be futile.  Nor would it be prudent to remain where we were.  The position was disadvantageous and untenable.  Moreover, the traditional predilection of the redskin for midnight scalps, roasts, and the like now flitted athwart our visions.  We, therefore, decided to retrace our steps to a more secure position.  But, on our facing about for this purpose, the Diggers faced about upon us.  We now held another moment's consultation, the result being that we turned upon them; and again they fled as before.  This sort of charging and counter-charging was repeated once or twice more, when we abandoned the child's play, and proceeded finally to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:withdraw.  In doing this, we turned the point of an open ridge that lay across our course.  No sooner had we reached the opposite side of this than the Indians, emboldened by our retreat, swept across the bottom we had just vacated, and came stringing along the crest of the ridge upon our flank, now supplementing their demoniacal yells and gyrations with volley after volley of arrow-shots.  But a vigorous use of our few pieces kept the pusillanimous horde well at bay.  We had to cross several deep ravines, where, as a precaution against the savages descending upon us while we were thus disadvantaged, our party divided, one half in turn guarding on the bank while the other half made the passage.  But presently an inward trend of the bluffs brought the enemy within effective arrow-range, when for a moment there was warm work.  The flying missiles fairly streaked the air.  Zip! zip! zip! they stuck in the ground among us and about us, their feathered ends quivering in the air.  In quick succession, a hat-brim was pierced, an arm grazed, a leg perforated, a foot wounded.  We scarcely dared look up lest the face or an eye be struck.  A squad of the Diggers were skulking along in our rear, to recover the spent arrows.  These now likewise pressed close upon us, skipping from clump to clump of chapparal to cover their approach.  Several of our men began to waver.  One turned to fly; but "Kentuck's" rifle, coupled with a vigorous admonition, brought this delinquent back to his senses and into the ranks.  We well knew what panic meant, and this nerved us for the worst.  Fortunately, at this critical juncture, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:were just entering an open circular space, where the distance from the bluffs assured us comparative safety.  Near the centre of this space, stood a large lone pine, with wide-spreading and low-drooping branches.  We hastened to this cover, where we stationed out pickets, and threw up around the tree a little earthwork, the crown of which we stuck thickly with chapparal to break or ward off arrow-shots.  For we had not the slightest doubt that we should be stormed that night, if not before.  This spot was, in fact, the very one we had in mind when we began our retreat.  It was well, too, that this was so close at hand, for the man with the dart in his foot declared upon reaching the place that he could go no farther.  When we began excavating, the Indians looked on for a few moments silently and queeringly, as if wondering whether some of our number had been killed and were being buried.  But, when our real purpose dawned upon them, they broke forth with a vehemence greater, if possible, than before, in a prolonged and frantic effort to frighten us from our shelter.  The squaws and children, from first to last, seemed to outvie the bucks in their demon-like performances.  A pebble about the size of a hen's egg struck the ground with a thud near where one of the men was shoveling.  It must have been hurled with a sling from the bluffs, a distance of more than three hundred yards.  These wild, furious demonstrations to dislodge us were repeated a number of times during the afternoon, but with gradual abatement of energy and frequency, till near sunset, when the savages broke out afresh in a prolonged and terrific <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:pandemonium of their whoops and fantastic pranks.  But, still failing of their end, they, to our great surprise and relief, now one by one filed over the hills from view, and we saw them no more.  At nightfall, one of our men, "Missouri Jim," volunteered to try to make his way to the bar for aid.  It was certainly no trifling task--the running of that lonely twenty-five-mile gantlet, infested as it was by wild beasts and hostile savages.  But "Jim"--a Wisconsin boy, by the way--was equal to the emergency; and the next afternoon a ringing shout went up from our little breastwork, as we espied about sixty of our friends with several horses file toward us through the gap of the divide.  The country was now scoured for Diggers; but, aside from a superannuated squaw with a basketful of arrowpoints, not a Digger appeared to view.  Our little earthwork was thenceforward remembered as "Fort Necessity."<ANCHOR ID="n7-3">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">Mark Twain thus not inaptly discourses of this make-believe weapon: To aim along the turning barrel and hit the thing aimed at was a feat which was probably never done with an "Allen" in the world....Sometimes all its six barrels would go off at once, and then there was no safe place in all the region roundabout, except behind it.  He might have added that "sometimes" none of the "six barrels would go off at all."</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-2">Drawn from specimens in a collection belonging to the author.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-3">D. K. Wall, of Denver, Col.; A. B. Liles, of Roswell, N. Mexico; J. N. Laughlin and W. S. Robinson, of Humboldt County, Cal., are the only survivors of this relief party at present known to me.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>The distance between us and the Indians when they did their most effective work was stepped the next day, and found to be two hundred and fifty paces.  The arrows we elevated and discharged from a position considerably above us, which partly accounts for their long range.  The leg-wound was mine.  The outer and feathered end of the arrow was quivering with a sort of rotary motion when I first observed it, and I instantly whisked it out, casting it away at the same time.  The arrow was driven with such force as to cut through and through, perforating the pants-leg and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0072" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"FORT NECESSITY."</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:the high boot-leg twice.  In the other case, the arrow entered the foot just below the ankle, through the eyeseam of the hard, heavy grain-tanned boot, and followed around the bone of the foot till the point struck the boot-sole on the opposite side, the body of the dart lodging among the delicate muscles of the bottom of the foot.  The arrow-head was glass, and made a painful wound.  We tried to extract it, but our butcher-knives had so long been strangers to the grindstone that the operation had to be deferred for more skilled hands and better instruments, both of which awaited us at the bar.<ANCHOR ID="n7-4">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-4">This man, one Willard, from Ohio, never fully recovered from his wound; but, regaining the use of himself sufficiently, he engaged in packing supplies for the miners along the Trinity.  Finally, however, he was missed, and search being made, his remains were found up in a dark ravine, where the Indians had murdered him, and stripped and horribly mutilated his body.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0073" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DIGGER BOWS AND ARROWS.</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n7-5">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-5">Drawn from the originals in a collection in my possession.  Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 are of the Modoc make, and were presented to me by George Graham, Eureka, Cal., who assured me that they were captured from "Captain Jack" and his band on the Lava Beds, at the time General Canby was killed.  Fig. 2 and Fig. 3 are of the Hoopa make.  One of the arrow-heads is of copper and the other of flint.  The bows are of yew wood, the backs of which (as of all of the Digger type) are "covered with a lining of sinew so carefully put on as to mimic the bark of wood, its thickness exactly fitted to the exigencies of the work to be done."  Several kinds of stone, together with bottleglass and (later) iron, steel and copper, were used for arrow-heads; and the arrow-shafts are usually in two parts, that to which the point is attached being about four inches long.  This make of bow and arrow is probably the best and most artistic known.  Fremont, in his "Memoirs," speaking of the metal-pointed arrows, says: "they could be driven to the depth of about six inches into a pine tree" Captain John G. Bourke makes substantially the same assertion.  See Smithsonian Reports, Part I, 1886, and also same document for 1893, for a full description of these weapons and the method of their manufacture.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>I remained on the Trinity till sometime in September, when a recruiting officer appeared along the river enlisting volunteers for service against the Indians, under a call issued by the Governor.  The miners of that region had acquired no very warm attachment for either the Diggers or the diggings; so that most of them were ripe for anything that promised a change.  The inducement now offered was six dollars per day, the recruit to furnish his horse.  About sixty men on the Trinity, myself included, responded to the call; and, bidding a not over tearful adieu to the "dear, damned, distracted" diggings, we set out upon the extremely rough trail across range after range of mountains for Uniontown, Humboldt Bay, the place of rendezvous, the distance being some ninety miles.  An incident occurred on this trip that may be of some interest from an ethnological point of view.  The advance of our party, as we were strung along the trail, captured a young Indian woman.  When I came up she was sitting on the ground beside the trail among a group of our men.  She was evidently badly frightened.  Looking up piteously into the faces of the brusque men about her, she milked from one of her breasts, thus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>I remained at Uniontown (now Arcata) that winter.  This point was then a commercial center of considerable importance, being a seaport, and as such the seat of a quite heavy traffic with the outlying mines.  The sawmill had not yet been introduced in that section, and the frow and the whipsaw did duty as a substitute, the frow doing the major share of the work.  The town lay immediately at the edge of the great redwood forests, and the timber yielded so readily to the frow that the building material was chiefly manufactured in this way.  I was occupied during most of the winter getting out siding, for which I received ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0074" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>REDRAWN FROM THE "HISTORY OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY." [Kinman was a noted pioneer and hunter of Humboldt Bay.  He was a native Pennsylvanian, and when (Buch)anan was elected President he conceived the idea of making for that "public functionary" a (buck)horn chair.  When Kinman, as he here appears, arrived at Washington with his novelty, he was so greatly lionized that he followed up the experiment upon the incoming of every succeeding President down to Garfield, whose early assassination prevented the delivery of the gift.  He took much pride in showing the many flattering notices he had received from the press.  In 1884, when I last saw him, he was keeping at the stage station on Table Bluff a sort of frontier curiosity snop, where he served a limited assortment of "tangle-leg" to the thirsty wayfaring callers.  Among his curiosities, was a fiddle he had constructed in part from the forehead of his favorite mule, whose spirit he hoped to meet in the Beyond.]</P>
032.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>The monotony of the winter was broken by a big fright from apprehended Indian hostilities.  Two white men had been murdered on Eel River, presumably by the Indians.  The deed and its supposed portent be came a subject of much public concern, and soon grew into a general apprehension that the Indians designed to wage a war of extermination upon the whites.  Public meetings were held nightly to discuss the situation and to arrange for defense.  It was proposed to erect a stockade in the centre of the plaza for the safety of the women and children of nights and as a fortification in case of an attack.  In the midst of the panic, a canoe containing several Indians was seen crossing the bay toward the peninsula.  This incident was at once accepted as conclusive evidence that the Indians were collecting in that quarter preparatory to their general onslaught upon the settlers.  That design, it was determined, should not be permitted to mature; it must be nipped in the bud.  Accordingly, a whale-boat was brought into requisition; and a party of a dozen or so of us, armed to the teeth, headed, with muffled oars and under cover of night, for the supposed hostile camp.  The landing was made and the rancheria surrounded before daylight, without our being discovered.  One "Captain" Smith, an old, ponderous rustic, a typical "Kaintuck," was our commander, and he proved himself to know about as much of military tactics as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:a Digger would know of belles-lettres.  Before it was fairly dawn we were ordered to fire upon the miserable shacks.  The surprise was complete, and as quickly as the affrighted Diggers could crawl out they scampered for the nearest brush.  Several of them were shot down as they ran.  One big buck was perforated with sixteen bullets.  <illus entity="a032-0075" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>KI-WE-LAT-TAH, OR "COONSKIN."</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n7-6">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: The women now set up a long heart-rending moan.  The Indians were uttlerly defenseless; but their pitiable plight did not in the least restrain our valorous men from rushing down on the huts, plundering them of everything that was deemed of any value, and then putting the rest to the torch.  In ransacking the lodges, a half-grown boy was found hidden away, and was dragged out.  The little fellow begged piteously for his life; but he was coolly shot down, notwithstanding.  It turned out ultimately that these Indians had no thought of attacking the whites; that they had no connection with the Eel River murders; and that the scare over the anticipated war of extermination was based upon the veriest moonshine.  The savages themselves, it may be added, could scarcely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-6">Redrawn from a photograph of a life-size painting owned by the late L. K. Vood, at Arcata, Cal.  Ki-we-lat-tah was a noted chief or the Humboldt Bay Indians, whose massive and dignified figure I saw many times, and who was one of the very few of his race that commanded the general respect and confidence of the whites.  I am indebted to David Wood (son) for the photograph used.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0076" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HEAD OF A GRIZZLY.</P>
032.sgm:<P>(SEE APPENDIX. P. XI.)</P>
032.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n7-7">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-7">Reproduced from Roosevelt's "The Wilderness Hunter," by permission of G. P. Putnam's Sons, publishers, New York and London.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>Humboldt Bay was discovered by a party of wandering miners from the Trinity on December 20, 1849, and the first vessel that plowed its waters made its entrance on April 6, 1850.  This craft was the "Laura Virginia," commanded by Lieutenant Douglass Ottinger, of the United States Marines.  It lies, by sea, two hundred and eighteen miles north of San Francisco; is the best harbor between San Francisco and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:the Columbia River; and is the principal outlet of the great redwood region, which is the finest forest in the world.  The port was at first prized chiefly because of its eligible situation as a supply-point for the mines of Northwestern California; but the fine bodies of arable lands about the bay and in the neighboring Eel River Valley were rapidly settled up and converted into farms.  In the spring of 1852, the lumber industry began to be rapidly developed, no less than seven sawmills, several of them of large capacity, being put in full operation within a year.  Eureka was the principal seat of this activity, as it has continued to be down to this day.  The town grew with corresponding rapidity; many vessels came and went; the mills buzzed away day and night; and the woods there-abouts resounded with the axe and the "Whoa, hush!"<ANCHOR ID="n7-8">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: of the logger.  Everybody was busy; everybody had money;<ANCHOR ID="n7-9">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: everybody seemed contented and happy.  Every logger owned his own timber claim and his own outfit, and thus exemplified the ideal condition that we are wont to assign to the ideal tiller of the soil.  Those that worked for wages, as a large proportion in every civilized community always must, received for ordinary labor from a hundred to a hundred and fifty dollars per month and found.  The big trees were not utilized in that primitive era.  Three to four yoke of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0077" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PRIMITIVE LOGGING SCENE AT HUMBOLDT.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-8">The constantly recurring exclamation of the "Down-East" and the "Blue-Nose" (New Brunswick) ox-teamsters.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-9">As a straw indicative of the prevailing flush times it may be mentioned that Seth Kinman, the noted hunter and antler chair-maker, and myself were tendered fifty dollars each to preside as the <HI REND="italics">orchestra</HI>
032.sgm:<P>The native pastures in this section of the State, especially in the Bald Hills back of the redwood belt, were remarkably fine, and, consequently, game, particularly bear, deer, and elk, ranged here in great abundance.  Until 1853, the citizens depended wholly upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>In 1853, the Government established a military post--Fort Humboldt--on the bay, of which Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel R. C. Buchanan was the commanding officer, and which was garrisoned by two companies of the Fourth United States Infantry.  Several officers of the command rose to distinction in the late Civil War, among whom were Generals Grant and Crook, the latter the renowned Indian fighter.  Grant was then a Brevet Captain and Crook a Lieutenant fresh from West Point.  Of course, no one at that day dreamed of the latent potentialities of these subsequently great Captains.  Grant was a quiet, reserved, unostentatious sort of man, whom nobody seemed to know any further than that he was "Captain Grant."  He would sit on a store-box in Eureka alone for hours, attracting little more attention than if he had been a dummy.</P>
032.sgm:<P>The redwood forests have been incidentally noticed.  These forests, over five hundred thousand acres of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:which lie in Humboldt County, are of so much importance to Humboldt Bay, to Northwestern California, to the domestic improvement and the foreign commerce of the Pacific Coast, as to merit separate and special mention.  It is well known that the species ( <HI REND="italics">sequoia sempervirens</HI>
032.sgm: ) is found nowhere else than on the coast-belt of the north half of California.  The appearance of these phenomena and the impression they produce upon the visitor have been thus aptly portrayed: "There are not, I think, more impressive forests in the world.  The land is actually darkened with them.  You walk in some of them on a bright, sunshiny day as you might in the gloom and darkness of Alaskan forests.  The impression that the atmosphere above is draped in fog, or is overspread with the cloud-darkness preceding rain, is constant, except where an occasional opening allows the sun to break through.  Nowhere in our forests is sunshine more acceptable or beautiful.  It comes in long, yellow splinters, or open, clear bars, lighting up the dead-gray bark of the redwoods, the luminated cork-like bark of the pines, and showering ineffable beauty on the clear green undergrowth, particularly on the fleur-de-lis-shaped circles of immense ferns which everywhere in the shade cover the ground.  The effect of this coming out into a break of sunshine from the gloom of the forests, is very peculiar.  It seems out of place in its suddenness--as if one were instantaneously to emerge from the darkness and gloom of rain into clear sunshine.  Not a sound of bird, beast, or wind disturbs the silence, and even the most of the streams steal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0078" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MODERN LOG-HAULING IN THE REDWOODS.--(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH.)</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:quietly seaward.  It is a place where silence itself might feel the need of going on tip-toe.  Fancy going mile after mile through trees one hundred and fifty to three hundred feet high packed as closely, one sometimes thinks, as trees can conveniently stand, and breathe--where deep shade prevails, and where no noise, not even a leafy rustle or tree-shaken whisper is heard--and it can be imagined how different the feeling is than when in open ground and in full sunshine.  After walking for half an hour thus, to have a break of sunshine slant in with its yellow light and color illumination, the invariable feeling is that the sun is bending to send in a salutation of light, peace and glory.  But the size of these redwood trees, their number, their grandeur, their immovably rooted bases, their beauty, their litheness, their remarkable straightness--none, nor all of these are anything like so impressive as their age.  They are nine hundred to fifteen hundred years old.  Here are trees standing, not in ruins, nor even in the senility, loss of strength and color of age, but with intense exhibition of almost immortal strength, spanning and bridging past centuries.  Holy men of old walked, it is said, with God; these trees have stood with and worshipped before him, while almost countless generations have come, gone, and passed away.  Age and strength, age and beauty, age and straightness, age and flexibility, here stand hand in hand, harmonizing the apparently irreconcilable, making apparent impossibilities possible and natural.  Think of single trees yielding fifty thousand feet of redwood, and single acres of land yielding one million <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:feet of lumber.  Indeed, in a radius of one hundred and fifty feet, we in one place counted sixty trees, some of them three hundred feet high, and with a circumference of sixty feet two or three feet from the ground.  All of the trees there are large.  The acre of land on which those trees stood would yield much more than on million feet of lumber, or say enough to load four of the largest three-masted schooners.  The size, quality, and grandeur of the redwood trees of California, and the extent of the redwood forests, have been the theme of many writers, and the admiration and wonder of the lovers of nature, until their fame is world-wide.  But a slight conception can be had of their size and height until they are seen.  All accounts seem fabulous until one stands amidst a forest of these monsters; stands at the base of a tree sixteen feet in diameter and four hundred feet in height, straight as an arrow, covered with massive layers of bark twelve to twenty inches thick."  The first time I looked upon these wonders was when journeying from the Trinity River to Humboldt Bay.  When I came down among them, I was actually spellbound, as I gazed upon their huge, shapely columns planted thickly about me and seemingly shooting up to the very skies.  Of course, though their life is reckoned by the roll of centuries, yet they have their appointed cycle of years; and it is truly sad to contemplate their majestic forms, older possibly than the Sermon on the Mount, lying prostrate upon mother earth.  Some of these have trees larger than a man's body perched upon their trunks; growths whose root-fibres have found sustenance in the immense bark, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<illus entity="a032-0079" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIRGIN REDWOOD FORESTS OF HUMBOLDT BAY.--(FROM A PHOTOGRAPH FROM NATURE AS REPRODUCED FOR "IN THE REDWOOD'S REALM.")</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>In April, 1854, I took passage on the schooner "Sierra Nevada" for San Francisco; and, on May 16th, I sailed for New York, via the Nicaragua route, taking the steamer "Brother Jonathan" on the Pacific side, and the steamer "Star of the West" on the Atlantic side.  Both vessels became historic afterward.  The one was lost on the Oregon coast with all on board, and the other ran the gantlet of the Confederate guns in Charleston harbor, when sent by the Government to relieve Fort Sumter at the outbreak of the Rebellion.  The voyage could scarcely have been more pleasant--fine weather, no accidents, no sickness, no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>I may now be permitted a few concluding reflections.  The subjects of this narrative--the California Argonauts--present a truly interesting spectacle in history.  In 1849, forty-two thousand of their number reached the gold fields by land and thirty-five thousand by sea.  In 1850, the rush hither was still greater, and the stream continued to flow in year after year with little abatement.  From a population of perhaps thirty-five thousand before this tide set in, the number within four years swelled to three hundred thousand; and within the same period more than two hundred and sixty million dollars of gold was dug from the mines.  This tide of humanity rushing hitherward and overrunning those mountain wilds can be likened only to those mighty race-waves that in ancient times swept over from beyond the Euxine and overran the Continent of Europe.  In the present instance, nearly every race and clime of the globe was represented; yet the sturdy American type dominated all others, and impressed its character and its institutions upon the land.  These Argonauts were for the most part under middle-age, and the degree of pluck and energy they displayed in this novel field has probably never been paralleled.  They explored difficult and dangerous mountain recesses; upturned gulches and canyons; washed away flats and bars; turned rivers from their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>The Golden State itself is truly a unique land with a unique history.  Widely isolated as it is betwixt desert and ocean from the great hives of humanity, it is a world of itself, and has built up a civilization in large measure peculiarly its own:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"With high face held to her ultimate star,<LB>With swift feet set to her mountains of gold,<LB>This new-built world, where the wonders are,<LB>She has built new ways from the ways of old."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>Yet it is not a world without its drawbacks.  To me, surely, it did not afford an unceasing round of pleasure.  Still, to me, as to most others that have once known and felt its peculiar fascinations, its mountains and valleys, its forest and streams, its fruit and flowers, its scenes and associations, are instinct with a romance, a charm, an indescribable something, that lingers in the memory like a fairy dream, and which time, nor distance, nor aught else, can ever lessen or efface.</P>
032.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.</HEAD>
032.sgm:<P>MY PLAINS COMPANIONS.--Donahue I have never seen or heard of since we separated on the plains.  Good died of blood poison on Carson River in 1853, when on his second trip across the plains to California.  Earl and Neal never returned to the States.  Earl still resides in California, where he married and has reared a large family.  Neal died in 1883 at Shasta, near the scene of our first mining experiences.  Rockhill has from the first been following the fortunes of a mining life, and like most men in that calling has done much rambling, being familiar with about every important mining camp in the Rocky Mountains and beyond.  He has been a resident of White Pine County, Nevada, for nearly thirty years, and has served that constituency acceptably in both branches of the Legislature.</P>
032.sgm:<P>POSTAL FACILITIES--I received my first letter from home at Reading's Bar, on the Trinity, after an absence of two and a half years It cost me two and a half dollars, and I considered it very cheap at that.  Our nearest post office was at Sacramento.  The method of obtaining mail from there was by private enterprise, and was without pretense of system or regularity.  Some man would occasionally, as caprice happened to move him, procure a list of the names of persons at a certain camp or camps and make the trip to Sacramento, upon the stipulation that he receive a certain stated fee for each mail package delivered, two to three dollars being the usual charge.</P>
032.sgm:<P>A FLORAL PARADISE.--A local authority [Hittell, "History of California,"] thus speaks of this striking feature of a California land scape: "There are grasses of various kinds and flowers in almost unlimited number, including the golden poppies, buttercups, mallows, pinks, nemophilas, roses, violets, larkspurs, and lilies without end.  The grass starts and the hills and valleys grow green, soon after the first rains, in November and December; in February and March the flowers commence; at one time the prevailing hue is golden, at another yellow, at another blue, and at another purple, according to the predominance of the blooms, and one tint or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>II.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>DIGGERS HARVESTING FOOD.--Quite to the contrary from the foregoing was the further spectacle presented to my senses on the same occasion.  My attention was attracted by a number of squaws and children in a gentle sag among the rank herbage, and on approaching them I found that each had the typical burden basket, and was busily engaged in harvesting their annual crop of worms.  These worms were mounted on the stems of the herbage, and were large and plump, very much resembling the tobacco variety.  The process of gathering was to pluck the delicate morsel with the fingers, take one end in the teeth, and strip out the insides, and repeat the process till a number were thus treated, when the bunch would be twisted into a sort of knot and cast into a basket.  This product, I learned, was mixed with pulverized acorns, and used for food.  It is to be observed in this connection that the Digger was necessarily more the creation of circumstaces than his civilized brother.  Knowing nothing of the arts of agriculture, and having little, if any, traffic outside of his tribe, he was compelled to draw his subsistence from such local bounties as nature supplies, whether good or bad, generous or otherwise.  If his lot fell along the bays and inlets, his chief dependence was upon shell-fish; if along streams, upon the finny tribes: and if inland or upon the desert, anything obtainable, including the most loathsome insects and vermin.</P>
032.sgm:<P>CACHING GOLD DUST.--There were no vaults or even safes in the mining camps in those days, and the inconvenience, to say nothing of the insecurity, of lugging gold dust about on the person, induced the miners frequently to resort to the cache as the most available substitute for those conveniences.  This practice led to many curious experiences.  In one instance, two men were on their way from a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>III.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>THREE-CARD MONTE.--The first I saw of this most artful device of all for baiting "suckers" was at Placerville in 1850, after the first arrivals from across the plains.  One evening, I was a spectator at Cold Springs, a neighboring camp, when the game was being dealt.  A big crowd were around the table, among whom were four brothers, home acquaintances of mine, who were noted for their close-fisted, scrimping habits.  The dealer affected utter recklessness in flinging the cards, and it frequently appeared as if the "winning card" could be pointed out with absolute certainty.  The four brothers eyed the process with the keenest interest.  The junior, a lad well in his teens, was made the custodian of the company's purse, which contained several hundred dollars in gold dust.  At a certain deal, when one of those seeming "dead-open-and-shuts" appeared, the lad, nudged by one of the older brothers, clapped the purse on the card.  But the gambler, feigning surprise and embarrassment, brusquely pushed the purse away, at the same time averring that he took "no bets from old men, children, or fools."  At this, an older brother interposed and assumed the responsibility.  "Well, but I have two chances to win to your one," persisted the man with the cards.  "And that's the wrong card anyway."  This pretended reluctance to accept the wager had the desired effect, making the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>IV.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>LAX ELECTION METHODS.--I cast my first vote at Placerville, at the first election held in California after the division of the State into counties.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: I lacked three years of the age required by the constitution; but this was accounted no bar at this precinct at this election, the board ruling that every one that had been able to make his way to the country and shift for himself after his arrival ought to be allowed to vote.  There was a spirited contest waging between Placerville and Coloma for the seat of justice,<ANCHOR ID="n8-2">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: and the uncharitable inclined might have suspicioned that this fact has something to do with determining the liberal views of the board.  I voted also, and served as a clerk of the election board, the next year, at Reading's Bar, at the first election held in Trinity County.<ANCHOR ID="n8-3">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1">Held on the first Monday in April, 1850.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-2">Placerville won, the camp having meantime changed its name from Hangtown to the less suggestive and more euphoneous appellation adopted.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-3">Held on the first Monday in June, 1851.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>A QUEER CONCEIT.--Local prejudice was a very conspicuous trait of the isolated communities of the gold region, where the newcommers were regarded with about the same sort of irreverence as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>V.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:old Jack Tar accords the land-lubber.  They were dubbed "emigrants" as a distinguishing mark from the older inhabitants who assumed blue blood because of their prior occupancy.  The knight of the ante-gold period, he of the <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
032.sgm:,  huge spurs <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
032.sgm:, etc., looked with no less commisseration, if not disdain, upon the arrivals of '49 than did these in turn upon the arrivals of '50.  The prepossession was not confined merely to the Coast, but followed upon the discovery and opening up of new camps everywhere.  In latertimes, "pilgrim," "tenderfoot," and "stinkfoot" were indifferently substituted for "emigrant" as epithets of derision, especially in the Rocky Mountains, in the sixties, when the great tidal wave of veteran gold-hunters swept over from the Coast and here dashed against an equally formidable wave of "greenhorn" gold-hunters rushing hither from the States.  Mark Twain, in his "Roughing It," has delineated some of his initiatory observations and experiences in this regard.  After depicting how he had served as the butt of the street gamin, the boot-black, the half-breed, the stage-driver, the "bull-whacker," and other like choice spirits of the select for the condoneless offense of being an "emigrant," he is moved to expatiate as follows: "Perhaps the reader has visited Utah, Nevada, or California, even in these latter days, and while communing with himself upon the sorrowful banishment of those countries from what he considers `the world,' he has had his wings clipped in finding that <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
032.sgm:<P>LAW AND ORDER.--We have heard much of the pistol and the bowie-knife in connection with the early mining camps.  Those communities were certainly in a very chaotic state, and as the inhabitants were constantly changing, there were few of those restraints operating that come of social stability and settled neighborship.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>VI.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:At first there was a total absence of technical law, and if there had been any such instrumentality there would have been no adequate machinery for its enforcement.  Gambling was everywhere rife; the "social evil" was unrestrained and unblushing; and Sabbath descration was well-nigh universal; yet, for all that, I doubt if men were ever anywhere more scrupulous in the meeting of their business obligations.  The following instances may be cited as typical: C.M. Long, of the firm of Pickard &amp; Long, general merchants, Eureka, California, informed me that during the several years that they had done business at that point, (and they were the principal merchants there,) they had credited everybody that had asked for it, and that the total of their losses on this account was but eight dollars.  On board the vessel from Eureka to San Francisco, when I was en route for the States, I loaned an acquaintance, an ex-sailor, a "slug."<ANCHOR ID="n8-4">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: On our arrival at San Francisco, he went his way and I went mine.  But, in a day or two, he called and paid me.  On the same trip, I loaned another friend, one McLane, a hundred dollars.  I did not see him again after our arrival till the steamer on which I was to sail was about to swing out from the wharf, when he came panting from nervousness and exhaustion, and handed me the money, explaining that he had been thus delayed in making collections, and evincing the utmost concern as to his honor in the premises.  That these men paid me was entirely optional and voluntary on their part.  They had no place of permanent residence, and practically nothing but non-attachable personal effects.  Moreover, each had good reason to believe that my departure, already fixed upon, would in effect liquidate the debt, and, as a matter of fact, I have never seen or heard of either of them since.  Now as to felonies in any of the camps where I was located during the period that I personally knew them: I can recall but a single instance of larceny: that at Coloma, where the thief paid the penalty at the whipping-post, mention of which has been made on pages 94 and 95 of the text.  And I knew of the commission of but one capital offense where whites only were concerned, and that was one of murder and robbery, at Eureka, in 1852.  Two men were hanged for the crime, one of whom voluntarily made a clean breast of his guilt and implicated the other.  They were both tried by a people's court, which, under the circumstances, was the only expedient practicable.  The organization of this improvised tribunal, and the proceedure of the trial, were entered into with the utmost gravity and deliberation possible; but in spite of all precautions the excitement inseparable from such an event finally overcame the crowd, and the trial of the last of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>VII.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-4">An octagonal fifty-dollar gold piece, minted by private enterprise, and quite current as money in those days.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>THE DIGGERS AND THE WHITES.--The Digger aptitude for thieving was proverbial.  This aptitude, especially among the mountain tribes, disclosed itself most in horse-stealing, in the pursuit of which marked boldness and dexterity were displayed.  One instance was related where the lariat was cut and the horse taken when the picket end of the line was lashed to the owner himself.  Good tells, in a letter now before me, how, on the Upper Sacramento River, in 1851, the Diggers ran off ten of his best pack-animals, seven of which he was unable to recover, though he pursued the thieves some forty miles, and several times had a brush with them.  The robbing of the corral on the Trinity has already been noticed.  Edwin Bryant, writing in 1847,<ANCHOR ID="n8-5">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: asserts, upon what he considered trustworthy authority, that within the twenty years previous, the Indians had stolen from the settlements between Monterey and San Francisco, a total of two hundred thousand horses, one half of which number could be distinctly enumerated.  Nearly all these horses, he adds, were slaughtered and eaten, the mountain Indians, who chiefly did the mischief, having become so habituated to horseflesh that it was their principal means of subsistence.  We learn on the same authority that the first Indian horse-thief known to that region, set out on his predatory career from Santa Clara, in about 1827, and that from this point and this source the evil spread north and south as fast as the extension of the settlements made such depredations possible.  As to the taking of life, however, it may well be doubted whether the Digger instinct was so inclined, when not actuated by motives of cupidity or of revenge.  Fremont had difficulty with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>VIII.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>IX.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:preconcerted plot, several rancherias in other sections of the county were visited with similar summary treatment.  In no case, apparently, was resistance offered or resistance possible.  The victims were taken unawares, and the work was massacre, simple and complete.  Again, the law and humanity went unvindicated.<ANCHOR ID="n8-6">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: The object, doubtlessly, was extermination, and the object was well-nigh accomplished.  In revisiting that section in 1884, I saw no Indians about the bay, except at Arcata, where I did see a remnant of them, apparently several families, quartered in the hollow of a redwood stump, the internal capacity of which had been somewhat enlarged by the action of fire.  I also saw a dozen or so of the race up in the Bald Hills, about fifty miles back from the bay.  Born and grown up in this locality, they had been dispossessed of their lands by the Government, without compensation, and by order of the same authority removed to a reservation in another section.  But, obviously, to the red man, no less than to the white,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Dear is the shed to which his soul conforms,<LB>And dear the hill that lifts him to the storm.<LB>And as a child, when scaring sounds molest,<LB>Clings close and closer to the mother's breast;<LB>So the loud torrent and the whirlwind's roar,<LB>But bind him to his native mountains more."</HI>
032.sgm:<P>This fragment of the race would not remain on the reservation, but returned to their "native mountains."  Here, they were now regarded as trespassers, and were compelled to pay for the little native pasture upon which their few ponies subsisted, while they themselves eked out an existence as best they could, chiefly by means of such odd jobs as the whites might see fit to give them.  Several of the women were the deserted wives of white men, and were now struggling for a living for themselves and children by making baskets and other wicker work.  So competent and trustworthy an authority as the late John Ross Brown, in speaking of the troubles by which the Indians of the Humboldt region became reduced to such an extremity, says: "I am satisfied, from an acquaintance of eleven years with the Indians, that, had the least care been taken of them, these disgraceful massacres would never have occurred.  A more inoffensive and harmless race of beings does not exist on the face of the earth; but whenever they attempted to procure a subsistence they were hunted down; driven from the reservations from the instinct of self-preservation; shot down by the settlers upon the most frivolous pretexts; and abandoned to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>X.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-5">See his "What I Saw in California," New York, 1848.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-6">The affair occupied the attention of the grand jury, which, after severely condemning the butchery, dismissed the case upon the alleged ground that no clue could be obtained as to the identity of the perpetrators.  For further details of this atrocity see "History of Humboldt County," San Francisco, 1882.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>EARLY CALIFORNIA PRICES CURRENT.--Delano's "Life on the Plains and at the Diggings," gives the following as the prices paid at Lassen's Ranch, on September 17, 1849:</P>
032.sgm:<P>Flour, per 100 pounds<HSEP>$50.00<LB>Fresh beef, per 100 pounds<HSEP>35.00<LB>Pork, " " "<HSEP>75.00<LB>Sugar, " " "<HSEP>50.00<LB>Cheese, per pound<HSEP>1.50</P>
032.sgm:<P>H. A. Harrison, in a letter to the "Baltimore Clipper," dated San Francisco, February 3, 1849, gives the following price-list:</P>
032.sgm:<P>Beef, per quarter<HSEP>$20.00<LB>Fresh Pork, per pound<HSEP>.25<LB>Butter, per pound<HSEP>1.00<LB>Cheese, per pound<HSEP>1.00<LB>Ham, per pound<HSEP>1.00<LB>Flour, per barrel<HSEP>18.00<LB>Pork, per barrel<HSEP>$35 to 40.00<LB>Coffee, per pound<HSEP>.16<LB>Rice, per pound<HSEP>.10<LB>Teas, per pound<HSEP>.60 cents to 1.00 <LB>Board, per week<HSEP>12.00<LB>Labor, per day<HSEP>$6 to 10.00 <LB>Wood, per cord<HSEP>20.00<LB>Brick, per thousand<HSEP>$50 to 80.00<LB>Lumber, per thousand<HSEP>150.00</P>
032.sgm:<P>William D. Wilson, writing to the "St. Joseph Valley Register," on February 21, 1849, gives the following schedule of prices at Sutter's Fort:</P>
032.sgm:<P>Flour, per barrel<HSEP>$30 to $40.00<LB>Salt Pork, per barrel<HSEP>110 to 150.00<LB>Salt Beef,  "<HSEP>45 to 75.00 <LB>Molasses,"<HSEP>30 to 40.00 <LB>Salt Salmon,"<HSEP>40 to 50.00<LB>Beans, per pound<HSEP>.20<LB>Potatoes, "<HSEP>.14 <LB>Coffee, "<HSEP>20 cents to .33<LB>Sugar, "<HSEP>20 cents to .30<LB>Rice, "<HSEP>20 cents to .30<LB>Boots, per pair<HSEP>$20 to 25.00<LB>Shoes,"<HSEP>3 to 12.00<LB>Blankets,"<HSEP>40 to 100.00</P>
032.sgm:<P>Transportation by river from San Francisco to Sacramento, he says, was $6 per one hundred pounds.  From Sacramento to the mines by team at the rate of $10 for every twenty-five miles.</P>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XI</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>John H. Miller, writing to the "St. Joseph Valley Register," October 6, 1849, gives the following prices at Weberville, 60 miles from Sacramento:</P>
032.sgm:<P>Wagons<HSEP>$40 to $80.00<LB>Oxen, per yoke<HSEP>50 to 150.00<LB>Mules, each<HSEP>90 to 150.00<LB>Board, per meal, $1.50, or per week<HSEP>21.00<LB>Beef, per pound<HSEP>40 cents to .75<LB>Salt Pork, per pound<HSEP>40 cents to  .75<LB>Flour, per pound<HSEP>25 cents to  .30<LB>Sugar, per pound<HSEP>30 cents to  .50 <LB>Molasses, per gallon<HSEP>$2 to  4.00 <LB>Mining Cradles<HSEP>$20 to  60.00 <LB>Mining Pans<HSEP>$4 to  8.00</P>
032.sgm:<P>[After the rainy season set in, the roads to the mines became extremely heavy, and the rate of transportation for the same distance during the most of the winter was $1 per pound, which on the average increased the prices here given more than 100 per cent.--AUTHOR.]</P>
032.sgm:<P>THE GRIZZLY BEAR.--This ponderous and redoubtable beast, perhaps the most formidable animal on the continent, figures with much prominence in early California.  Its image was emblazoned on the flag under which the non-Spanish residents of that country first revolted against the Mexican rule, and today the same image occupies a place quiescently beside the traditional goddess on the chosen arms of the State.  The grizzlies were very numerous on the Coast, even down to my time there, especially in the lower valleys in the season of berries.  Their feats were a staple theme of the current every-day conversation.  Along the Sacramento River, in the fall, wild grapes were abundant, which attracted many of the species from the mountains bordering the valley.  As we were going up the river, in the fall of 1850, I inquired of a Missourian, who, with his wife, was keeping a sort of station by the roadside, whether there were many grizzlies thereabouts.  "Oh, yes:" he ejaculated, "a right smart sprinkle of 'em."  Then he went on to relate in his peculiar vernacular how, the night previous, one had come poking his nose under the edge of the tent where he and his wife were abed; how he had lighted a match to the bear's nose; and how the bear, at the smell of the sulphur, had scampered off in a fright.  The grizzlies were also very plentiful about Humboldt Bay.  The underbrush here was extraordinarily thick and tangled, and bore berries in great profusion and variety.  In the proper season, the tops of these berry-bearing bushes were everywhere bent down or broken off by the grizzlies in their clawing after the fruit.  During one summer, we were every morning regaled with the sight of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XII.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:huge footprints of one of these monsters, where, the night before, he had deliberately waddled along on our cattle-trail, over which we were compelled to pass back and forth at least once every working day of the week.  We did not put ourselves out of the way to seek a closer acquaintance with "Old Ephraim" himself.  As a rule, he was given a wide berth, by professional hunters, as well as others.  Once, a friend<ANCHOR ID="n8-7">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: and myself, in crossing over from Eel River to the bay, came upon five of the beasts on the trail a short distance ahead of us.  When they espied us, several of them reared up on their haunches, "sized us up" a moment, and then, resuming their all-fours, they all contemptuously swaggered off about their business.  We, with becoming grace, brooked the insult and allowed them to go their way.  The grizzly was not considered dangerous, except when it was wounded or was come upon in close quarters unawares.  Roosevelt, in his hunting-books, mentions several instances where, in the Rocky Mountains, men were killed at a blow of their paws; but, while I heard of a number of cases in California where persons were badly mutilated in their clutches, I never heard of a person there being killed by them outright.  The worst case of mutilation that came to my knowledge was that of one L. K. Wood.  This man was a member of a party that, in their wanderings in the fall of 1849, discovered Humboldt Bay, and they were in the mountains south of Eel River when the encounter took place.<ANCHOR ID="n8-8">*</ANCHOR>
032.sgm: With winter at hand, strength reduced, health impaired, provisions exhausted, and ammunition nearly run out, they were trying to work their way to the settlements, some three hundred miles away.  The original party had disagreed and separated, the one to which Wood belonged now consisting of three men besides himself,--Thomas Sebring, Isaac Wilson, and David A. Buck.  Entering a patch of mountain prairie, in the section mentioned, they came upon a group of eight grizzlies, and, though the men were so exhausted that they could hardly drag themselves along, yet they determined to attack the grim customers.  When Wood was within about fifty steps, he leveled his rifle upon the one nearest him and fired.  The bear tumbled over, biting and tearing the earth with all the fury of one struggling in the agony of death.  Wilson, at the same time, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XIII.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XIV.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-7">This friend, whose name was Head, was, in one respect, peculiarly constituted.  The mosquitoes in some places about the bay literally swarmed.  I had my handkerchief bound about my head and neck, and was kept busy fighting the pests, notwithstanding; yet he strode along, evincing the utmost complacency, protesting that the ravenous tormentors passed him by without so much as thinking of molesting his person in anywise.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-8">Wood wrote a graphic account of this affair in 1856, which was reproduced in the "History of Humboldt County," to which I am indebted for the details here given.</NOTE>
032.sgm:<P>LIST OF ST. JOSEPH COUNTY ARGONAUTS.--I have prepared with considerable care the following list of the names of residents of St. Joseph County, Indiana, that crossed the plains to California in 1849.  I am indebted for much of the data of this list to contemporaneous files of the "St. Joseph Valley Register," which were kindly placed at my disposal by Schuyler Colfax, of South Bend, Indiana.  Those printed in Roman (84) are dead: those in <HI REND="italics">italics</HI>
032.sgm: (22) are living; those in SMALL CAPITALS (6) are missing.  In other words, about three-fourths of this number are dead.  This ratio of the dead to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XV.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<P>Allen, Abram<HSEP>Mishawaka<LB>Armstrong, Simeon<HSEP>"<LB> Bertholf, Abram B.<HSEP>" <LB><HI REND="italics">Black, Francis</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>" <LB><HI REND="italics">Bratt, John</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>Centre<LB>Bertrand, Charles<HSEP>South Bend<LB>Busha, George<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Bronson, James C</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>"<LB>Bressett, Lewis<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Baer, Adam</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>"<LB>Crosby, Dr. A. B.<HSEP>New Carlisle<LB>Cutting, Dr.<HSEP>"<LB>Chapman, Dr. Jared<HSEP>Greene<LB>Curtis, William<HSEP>Olive<LB><HI REND="italics">Caldwell, Cassius</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>South Bend<LB> Carpenter, Ezra G.<HSEP>"<LB>Cottrell, Samuel L.<HSEP>"<LB> Coquillard, Jr., A.<HSEP>"<LB>Comparet, Louis G.<HSEP>"<LB>DE GROFF, G.<HSEP>"<LB>Day, John<HSEP>"<LB>Doan, James<HSEP>"<LB>Donahue, Francis<HSEP>Centre<LB> DONAHUE, MICHAEL<HSEP>"<LB>Doolittle, James<HSEP>Mishawaka<LB><HI REND="italics">Doolittle, Hull J</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>"<LB>Doolittle, George<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Eaton, James</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>Olive<LB>ESLINGER, MATTHIAS<HSEP>Madison<LB><HI REND="italics">Earl, William L</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>South Bend<LB>Fassett, Chauncey S.<HSEP>"<LB> Ford, Alex. J.<HSEP>Mishawaka<LB>Farley, Joel<HSEP>Penn<LB> Frazier, Alex. H.<HSEP>Olive<LB>Garwood, Sol<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Garoutte, Jere. M</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>New Carlisle<LB> Good, William S.<HSEP>German<LB><HI REND="italics">Gish, David E</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>South Bend<LB>Grossnical, Jacob<HSEP>"<LB> Harris, Samuel<HSEP>"<LB>Horrell, Johnson<HSEP>South Bend<LB>Horrell, James I.<HSEP>"<LB>Henricks, Dr. John A.<HSEP>"<LB>Hopkins, Simeon W.<HSEP>"<LB>Hartwell, James<HSEP>Mishawaka<LB>Harris, William<HSEP>Harris<LB> Johnson, John C.<HSEP>New Carlisle<LB>Johnson, Evan C.<HSEP>South Bend<LB>Johnson, Pierce N.<HSEP>South Bend<LB>Johnson, Cyrenius<HSEP>"<LB>Kinsey, Philip W.<HSEP>"<LB>Kelley, John<HSEP>Centre<LB>Kelley, Mrs. John<HSEP>"<LB>LAMBING, FRED<HSEP>South Bend<LB>Lewis, Charles W.<HSEP>"<LB>Lindsey, Tipton<HSEP>"<LB>Linderman, John<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Leeper, David R</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>"<LB>Labadie, Anthony<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Miller, William</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>"<LB>Miller, Matthew B.<HSEP>"<LB>Maslin, William<HSEP>"<LB>McCoskry, David<HSEP>"<LB>McNabb, Horton<HSEP>"<LB>MCCOY, FELIX<HSEP>"<LB>Monson, Rev. W. C.<HSEP>Liberty<LB> McCartney, Thomas<HSEP>German<LB>McCartney, James<HSEP>"<LB>McCartney, Benj. F.<HSEP>"<LB>Miller, John N.<HSEP>"<LB>McCullough, Wm. S.<HSEP>Greene<LB><HI REND="italics">Merrifield, Geo C</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>Mishawaka<LB> Mathews, James<HSEP>"<LB>Metzger, Joseph E.<HSEP>Harris<LB> Norton, William<HSEP>South Bend<LB>Neal, Thomas Dudley<HSEP>Greene<LB>Needham, John W.<HSEP>New Carlisle<LB><HI REND="italics">Pierce, Charles</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>" "<LB><HI REND="italics">Phillips, Melvin R</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>Penn<LB><HI REND="italics">Pierson, George</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>South Bend<LB> <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XVI.</PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:Page, Francis<HSEP>South Bend<LB>Rush, Hiram<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Rush, Mrs. H.(Sarah)</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Rush, Miss Sarah</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Rush, Miss Ellen</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Reynolds, Ethan S</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>"<LB>Robinson, "Col."Abe B.<HSEP>"<LB>Rulo, William<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Rockhill, Thomas</HI>
032.sgm:<HSEP>Portage<LB>Rush, D. Clinton<HSEP>New Carlisle<LB> Snyder, Joseph<HSEP>Harris<LB>Sales, Jack and BOY<HSEP>Mishawaka<LB>Stocking, Walter V.<HSEP>"<LB>Shuffler, Reuben<HSEP>Olive<LB>Spencer, Philo G.<HSEP>"<LB>Stebbins, George<HSEP>"<LB>Snavely, William J.<HSEP>South Bend<LB>Sherland, Luther<HSEP>"<LB>Tutt, Charles M.<HSEP>"<LB>Trainor, Daniel<HSEP>"<LB>Tingley, Simeon D.<HSEP>Greene<LB>Towner, --<HSEP>Olive<LB>Tibbetts, N. B.<HSEP>Mishawaka<LB>Vessey, John<HSEP>South Bend<LB> Woodward, J. E.<HSEP>"<LB><HI REND="italics">Whitman, William G</HI>
032.sgm:.<HSEP>"<LB>White, Joseph<HSEP>"<LB>Woodward, William L.<HSEP>"<LB>Willoughby, Dr. D. W. C.<HSEP>"<LB>Wing, A. M.<HSEP>Mishawaka<LB>Wilson, Charles L.<HSEP>"<LB>Ward, Daniel<HSEP>Clay<illus entity="a032-0080" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
032.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
032.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
032.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ERRATA.</HEAD>
032.sgm:<P><LB>Page 75, line 2 below picture, for "log" read "adobe."<LB>For "Donahue" read "Donighue." <LB>For "Dr. A. B. Crosby" read "Dr. Averill <HI REND="italics">E</HI>
032.sgm:. Crosby."<LB>For "John N. Miller" read "John <HI REND="italics">H</HI>
032.sgm:. Miller."<LB>For "Col. Abe B. Robinson" read "Col. Abe <HI REND="italics">G</HI>
032.sgm:. Robinson."<LB>Linderman, Lambing, and Eslinger are still living.<LB>Towner, Stebbins, and DeGroff went from LaPorte county.</P>
033.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-033</TITLE>
033.sgm:<TITLE>Santa Barbara and around there.  By Edwards Roberts. With illustrations by H.C. Ford: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
033.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
033.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
033.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
033.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
033.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
033.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
033.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-694</LCCN>
033.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
033.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>15771</COPYRIGHT>
033.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA<LB>And Around There.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SANTA BARBARA BAY.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA <HI REND="italics"><LB>AND AROUND THERE</HI>
033.sgm:<P>BY<LB>EDWARDS ROBERTS.</P>
033.sgm:<P>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY H. C. FORD.</P>
033.sgm:<P>BOSTON:<LB>ROBERTS BROTHERS.<LB>1886.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Copyright, 1886</HI>
033.sgm:<P>BY ROBERTS BROTHERS.</P>
033.sgm:<P>University Press: JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA does not need to have untruths published regarding its climate, surroundings, and natural attractions.  They are so nearly perfect, so varied and beautiful, that it is superfluous to exaggerate them.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The following pages contain no statement that has not been verified.  The aim has been to picture truthfully, rather than entertainingly.  The region described is peculiar unto itself, and has no counterpart in America.  The popularity of Santa Barbara as a resort increases every year.  In a great measure it is to America what Nice and Mentone are to Europe.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>In preparing the present guide, the editor has been under obligations to individuals, and has gained much information from the following books and pamphlets: "Santa Barbara as It Is," by Mrs. Hall-Wood; "A Business Man's Estimate of Santa Barbara County," by J. J. Perkins; Hittell's "History of California;" "The Missions of California," by William Carey Jones; "Exploration de l'Oregon et des Californies," by M. Duflot de Mofras; and Bancroft's "History of California."</P>
033.sgm:<P>EDWARDS ROBERTS.</P>
033.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA, CAL., June, 1886.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>I.  WITH THE BARBAREN&tilde;OS<HSEP>11<LB>II.  ALONG THE PACIFIC SHORE<HSEP>27<LB>III.  LA MISION DE SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>45<LB>IV.  SPANISHTOWN AND LA PATERA<HSEP>65<LB>V.  BY-WAYS OF THE SANTA YNEZ<HSEP>89<LB>VI.  THE OJAI VALLEY<HSEP>108<LB>VII.  IDLE DAYS IN THE SANTA CLARA<HSEP>122<LB>VIII.  THE HOME OF RAMONA<HSEP>137<LB>IX.  FACTS WORTH KNOWING<HSEP>169</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>THE SANTA BARBARA BAY<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
033.sgm:<LB>A SANTA BARBARA HOME<HSEP>13<LB>FROM THE MISSION<HSEP>23<LB>IN SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>25<LB>ALONG SHORE<HSEP>29<LB>IN MONTECITO<HSEP>31<LB>THE WHARF<HSEP>39<LB>THE MISSION<HSEP>46<LB>THE MISSION WING<HSEP>59<LB>THE GARDEN<HSEP>63<LB>IN SPANISHTOWN<HSEP>68<LB>AN OLD TIME ADOBE<HSEP>72<LB>A BAKING OVEN<HSEP>75<LB>LAKE FENTON<HSEP>79<LB>GLEN ANNIE PALMS<HSEP>84</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>GAVIOTA PASS<HSEP>87<LB>CASTLE ROCK<HSEP>91<LB>SYCAMORE CAN&tilde;ON<HSEP>97<LB>MONTECITO HOT SPRINGS<HSEP>105<LB>THE SOUTHEAST CORNER<HSEP>139<LB>THE SOUTH VERANDA<HSEP>152<LB>THE CHAPEL<HSEP>164<LB>THE BELLS<HSEP>166<LB>THE ARLINGTON<HSEP>172<LB>THE ARLINGTON VERANDA<HSEP>174<LB>A CARPENTERIA COTTAGE<HSEP>181</P>
033.sgm:<BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SANTA BARBARA. <LB>CHAPTER I.<LB>WITH THE BARBAREN&tilde;OS.<LB></HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA may be described as having her feet bathed by the warm blue waters of the Pacific, and her head pillowed on the mountains of the Santa Ynez.  For the little valley in which the scattered houses of the town are nestled lies directly between the mountains and the sea, and from the shore of the one extends to the foot-hills of the other.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Owing to the peculiar divergence of the California coast from its usual direction of north <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:and south to a line extending nearly due east and west, Santa Barbara has a southern outlook; and the western borders of the valley are protected by a low group of hills known as the <HI REND="italics">Mesa</HI>
033.sgm:<P>It matters but little, so far as concerns one's enjoyment of the prospect which gradually unfolds itself, how entrance to the Santa Barbara valley is made.  If overland, by way of San Buenaventura, the view up the coast is a revelation to all lovers of the beautiful.  To the right lies the Pacific, and following its gracefully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A SANTA BARBARA HOME.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>By the ocean route one does not see Santa Barbara until the boat rounds Castle Rock Point and enters the bay which stretches before the town.  Then, however, the valley and the white towers of the Mission, standing in bold relief against their background of hills, are revealed.  From the south, the steamer's course is past the various headlands of the coast, and for hours before it is reached, Santa Barbara may be sighted.  In the distance are confused masses of mountains, blue and haze-obscured; to the right, pressing upon a stretch of yellow sand, are scattered clusters of houses, surrounded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The history of Santa Barbara is uneventful.  There was never a war waged for its possession, and no violent disturbance has ever broken the serenity that now exists.  The first mention of the valley was made by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, who sailed into the Santa Barbara channel as early as 1542.  He found the coast peopled by Indians who were superior in many respects to the average California aborigines, but who lived, nevertheless, in the most primitive manner.  In 1602 Sebastian Viscaino, sailing under a commission from Philip III., reached the Santa Catalina Island, which helps to form the Santa Barbara channel.  Viscaino does not mention the Indians who lived on the mainland, and with whom the people on the island had business relations, but describes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>From the year of Viscaino's visit to 1782, there are no authentic reports of Santa Barbara.  But in the spring of that year the Franciscan Father, Junipero Serra, who had already established Missions from San Diego to San Francisco, proceeded along the coast, and at Santa Barbara consecrated the chapel which had been built within the walls of the Presidio.  From that time until 1833, when the Act aimed at the overthrow of the California Missions was passed by the Mexican Congress, Santa Barbara enjoyed its season of greatest prosperity.  The Fathers were rich, and their Indian converts so cultivated the valley that it became a veritable garden.</P>
033.sgm:<P>But the overthrow of the Franciscans created sad havoc.  The church lost its treasures <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:and the Indians neglected the fields.  Then came the gradual overthrow of Spanish rule and the invasion of Americans.  Slowly but surely Santa Barbara became changed.  The Presidio was deserted, and the happy quiet of the past was replaced by a restless activity.  In 1874 the bubble of expectation was full-blown.  Vandalism was rampant.  Picturesque cottages were torn down and new buildings erected in their place.  The town was looked upon as a future metropolis, and real estate commanded fabulous prices.  Then the bubble burst, and hearts grew sad.  Prices fell and improvements ceased.  By degrees the cold truth was understood, and there ceased to be dreams of commercial importance.  To-day Santa Barbara has accepted its alternative and has laid siege, together with Nice, Mentone, and Newport, to the distinction of being a sanitarium and popular resort.  Its reputation has gone across a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Old Santa Barbara consisted of little more than a Presidio, with a few red-tiled adobes grouped about the walls of the fort.  Wherever the Spaniards gathered in California they built their Presidio.  They were nearly all alike, and consisted of adobe walls fourteen feet high, enclosing a square, and defended at the angles by small bastions, on which were small brass cannon.  In the enclosure were the barracks, a store-house, a church, and the Commandant's residence.  The outer walls were defended by a trench twelve feet wide and six deep, and the square was entered through two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Near the Presidio stood the <HI REND="italics">Castillo</HI>
033.sgm:, a covered battery, manned, and mounted by a few guns.  Though but a slight defence against a powerful enemy, the <HI REND="italics">Castillo</HI>
033.sgm:<P>The cottages gathered about the Presidio constituted the <HI REND="italics">pueblo</HI>
033.sgm:, or town, which occupied land that had been granted discharged soldiers and others, by the Mission Fathers.  The <HI REND="italics">rancherias</HI>
033.sgm:, from which comes the modern name of ranch, consisted of "King's lands" which had been set apart for the use of the troops.  After California was ceded to the Americans the <HI REND="italics">rancherias</HI>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>In such a time of peace as that which intervened between the establishment of the Mission and the loss of California, the Spanish governors at Santa Barbara had little to mar their enjoyment of life.  For a small sum of money the Fathers absolved them from sin; the climate, warm and unchangeable, invited placidity; Indian labor was cheap and abundant; and fortunes were rapidly accumulated through the increase of the cattle that fed in the different valleys.  Dana describes the pleasures of the people as simple.  A marriage among the rich which he witnessed was celebrated by a three day's festival, and fandangoes were danced upon every possible occasion.  There was sunshine and good-will, and the village knew nothing of, and cared but little for, the outside world.</P>
033.sgm:<P>And this in a measure is the case to-day.  Old Santa Barbara has been changed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:somewhat, and much of its former fascination has been destroyed, together with its cottages, but the peaceful serenity of the place remains.  The quiet would be oppressive, at times, to one of an active temperament, were it not for the view of ocean, valley, and mountain, that is ever present.  But with the sight of these gifts of Nature one forgets that Santa Barbara is listless, and is only cognizant of the fact that it is charming.  Its beauty disarms energy and the power to criticise.  The deep blue of the ocean, stretching far away to softly outlined islands; the clearness of the sky, which is only occasionally hid by clouds, and the long beach of sand, flecked with the white spray of oceanwaves, are sights that every town does not possess.  Their attractiveness, with that of other scenes, is enticing.  One comes for a week and remains a year, or for a lifetime.  Seasons come and go, but no notice is taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Of course Santa Barbara suggests Nice.  That fact has been chronicled many times.  But the resemblance is confined to the climate, which is practically the same in both places.  The California resort, however, has none of the lavish improvements of Nice.  It is natural rather than artificial.  Its only landing is the long wharf extending out into deep water, and the beach is delightfully unimproved.  Those accustomed to the comforts of Nice will be sadly disappointed if expecting to find the same at Santa Barbara.  The town has done but little to better its appearance.  It has few artificialities.  It is plain but comfortable, and it is attractive because Nature will not allow it to be otherwise.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FROM THE MISSION.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The main street leads through nearly the centre of the valley, and extends from the wharf almost to the Mission.  At its lower end are the few shops and public buildings of the town, and above them are the hotels.  Beyond these again are open fields, and garden-surrounded homes, which command an extended view of the mountains, the sea, the Mission, and the village.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The streets are wide, and each has its row of peppers or eucalyptus.  In the lower part of the town, near the bay, the houses are surrounded by gardens filled with a profusion of shrubs and trees.  Roses bloom above the doorways, and there are hedges composed of plants which in the East are nursed with tender care.</P>
033.sgm:<P>But to gain the best idea of the appearance Santa Barbara presents, one must climb to the Mission, which overlooks the entire valley.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:Below is the town, half hid among trees which are ever green; beyond is the bay, guarded by the mountains and yellow beach; in the distance are the islands, which stretch far along the <illus entity="a033-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IN SANTA BARBARA.</P>
033.sgm:coast.  To the west is seen the valley, opening upon the ocean, and limited by the mountains.  Italy, with its softness of atmosphere, and happy mingling of the natural and artificial, has not a fairer view.  The region is restful to look at and to live in.  It combines <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>ALONG THE PACIFIC SHORE. THE Santa Barbara valley has an average width of from two to four miles, and is forty-five miles long.  It extends from Gaviota Pass, a narrow passage across the Santa Ynez range, to Rincon Hill, and is divided into three distinct districts.  That of Carpenteria lies between Rincon and Ortega Hill, and next to it is El Montecito, which borders the bay and stretches back to the foothills.  The third division, the longest of all, is the Santa Barbara valley proper.  In it are the town, the village of-Goleta, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The Bay of Santa Barbara is little more than an open roadstead, or channel.  It is twenty miles wide, and is protected from the open sea by four long, mountainous islands.  From a point less than a mile west of the wharf the shore extends in an almost unbroken succession of crescent beaches as far as Rincon, twenty miles away.  To ride or drive along this hard, shining roadway, is at all seasons of the year a popular pastime.  At low tide one may ride its entire length.  In places the beach is bordered by open fields, and again is lined by high yellow cliffs, with grass-grown tops.</P>
033.sgm:<P>On sunlit days, which are the rule rather than the exception at Santa Barbara, the colorings seen on this ride are varied and beautiful.  Then the cliffs are of deepest yellow, the bay is blue, and the distant islands are purpled.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:The live-oaks crowning neighboring hills seem greener than ever; the mountains reflect a dozen different hues, as the light falls upon the higher peaks, and shadows fill the can&tilde;ons.  During the winter, when the valley is filled with bright green grasses, in early spring when the wild <illus entity="a033-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ALONG SHORE.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>There are almost countless excursions that may be taken along the Pacific shore.  One never tires of them, or indeed discovers all at once.  The favorite drive is that to El Montecito.  The little valley, with its vine-clad cottages and gardens, its oaks and orchards, is a suburb of Santa Barbara, and contains a score or more red-roofed houses, built and owned by those who have been attracted to the region by its peculiar beauty.</P>
033.sgm:<P>On the east and west of El Montecito, and isolating it from its neighbors, are rounded ridges that run from the bay back to the range.  The slopes are thickly covered with oaks, and in winter with bright green grass, which in summer becomes brown and offers a striking contrast to the coloring of the oaks.  The southwest exposure of the valley is upon the bay, and on the northwest are the mountains, from the foot-hills of which the land has a gentle slope to the beach.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IN MONTECITO.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>In whichever direction one looks, the prospect is varied and beautiful.  Far off across the bay are seen the rugged forms of the islands; near by are the mountains, with brush-grown can&tilde;ons and rounded foot-hills overtopped by bare, gaunt ledges.  Down in the valley are minor vales, separated by low elevations, that are filled with orange-groves or gardens; and westward flows a noisy creek, seeking the sea through the shadow of trees growing along its banks.  There is no sound other than the breath of Nature to disturb the ever present quiet.  The place seems destined for rest, and study, and quiet contemplation.  Flowers and verdure are everywhere, --in the gardens, along the roadside, in the fields.  Winter and summer the oaks are green, and the roses are in bloom.</P>
033.sgm:<P>There are several ways of going from Santa Barbara to El Montecito.  One road follows <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>There are no large ranches in the valley, which is mostly occupied by residences; but several properties contain sufficient land for from one to two thousand orange-trees, besides moderately large vineyards and olive-groves.  The largest orchard is on the San Ysidro ranch, containing two hundred acres and occupying an elevated position at the entrance to San Ysidro Can&tilde;on.  There are two hundred lemon and lime trees, and twelve hundred orange-trees, the yield from which in 1886 was 300,000 oranges, and 100,000 lemons.  In coming years the yield will be much larger, as the trees will be older.  The cottage of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>But farming for profit is not generally indulged in at El Montecito.  It is a valley of homes rather than of business, and the land is worth too much for building purposes to be used for farms.  The soil is a rich producer.  The indigenous trees are oaks and sycamores, but to these, in late years, have been added specimens of every known variety, from the pine of the North to the palm of the South.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Many gardens contain rare collections.  On the Sawyer property, at the upper end of the valley, are over twenty varieties of palms, remarkable for their age and size.  Among them are a graceful screw-palm, a sago from Ceylon, a group of Drac&aelig;nas palms, and one which bears dates.  Of plants there is a large camellia japonica, twelve feet high, which bears fifteen hundred flowers and buds at one time.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>With the commoner trees, the elm, oak, eucalyptus, pepper, orange, lemon, nectarine and cypress, are a large alligator-pear tree from Mexico, a valuable specimen of the silver tree, with bright silver leaves, from Cape of Good Hope, and camphor, Indian rubber, madrona, and magnolia trees.  The last is very large, and when in bloom presents a magnificent sight.  Several of the hedges that line the various walks are of Chinese lemons.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The elevation of the land on which these several specimens grow is about five hundred feet above sea level, and the view from the garden embraces the sea and valley.  The oaks are large, and standing beneath them, surrounded by the palms and shrubs gathered from the most remote parts of the world, one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Visitors to the Centennial at Philadelphia may remember seeing a huge grape-vine, thick of stock and with wide-spreading limbs.  It grew in Montecito, and was taken east as a natural curiosity.  The child of the giant parent still lives in the valley, and is already equal in size to its mother.  Before the Americans came, and for some time afterwards, the original vine served to shade the dancers of Spanish fandangoes.  There was room for a dozen couple to dance at one time, and many a feast was eaten beneath the branches.  The present vine is near the Sawyer garden, and is an object of considerable interest.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The Carpenteria valley lies to the east of El Montecito, and is separated from it by Ortega <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Leaving Ortega, the road follows a line of bluffs, at the feet of which is the sea, with its masses of sea-weed, -- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Ever drifting, drifting, drifting,<LB>On the shifting<LB>Currents of the restless main, --"</HI>
033.sgm:<P>and later, passing the sand-dunes, enters the sleepy little village standing at the outskirts of productive fields.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Carpenteria does not possess the picturesqueness of El Montecito, but the valley is famous for its farms, and produces large quantities of nuts, apricots, and Lima beans.  Live-oaks are abundant, and the houses are set in the midst of gardens containing a large variety of flowering shrubs.  The fields are mainly filled with flax, grain, or beans; and near the town is a wharf, from which the products are shipped to market.  Nearer the range, which extends along its entire northern side, the valley merges into low uplands and penetrates the mountains through a number of winding, brush-grown can&tilde;ons.</P>
033.sgm:<P>There is only a limited amount of boating at Santa Barbara.  The bay is never so quiet as are those of the Atlantic, and one is moderately sure of being sea-sick if he ventures to try a sail.  Boats may be had, however, and the deep-sea fishing is exceedingly good.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE WHARF.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The islands are named Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, San Miguel and Ana Capa.  They are private property, and are used for sheep-ranges.  The ground contains many curious Indian implements, and on San Miguel the Spanish explorer Cabrillo was buried.  The islands are of various shape and size, one being more than twenty miles long and covered with hills that have an elevation of two thousand feet above sea level.  All are the home of myriads of birds, and along their beaches are vast quantities of abalone shells, which are gathered, shipped to France, and made into buttons.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>On the smallest island was enacted the tragedy of the "Lost Woman of San Nicholas," which at Santa Barbara is a familiar tale.  The story begins with the removal of a number of Indians from San Nicholas, in 1836.  Just as they were embarking, one of the women discovered that her child had been left behind.  Returning for it, she was abandoned by her companions, who were obliged by a coming storm to set sail for the mainland.  It was intended to return so soon as the weather permitted, but years passed away, and the woman in time was forgotten and left to her fate.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Twenty years later, a hunter named George Nidever, of Santa Barbara, visited the island for otters.  While there, he determined to look for the woman.  After careful search he found three huts made of whale-ribs and brush, and from where they stood extended an open plain, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Her arrival there created great excitement, and hundreds called at Nidever's house to see her.  Although she could not have been more than fifty years old, she was gray-haired and emaciated.  Her expression was one of blank ignorance, and her skin was dry and wrinkled.  Her language, strange as it may seem, considering the comparatively short time she had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>George Nidever, the hero of the rescue, was a well-known character.  His widow still lives at Santa Barbara, and the stories of her husband's good qualities and bravery are innumerable.  In all accounts he is pictured as a second Leatherstocking, --brave and honest, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>LA MISION DE SANTA BARBARA. FROM the bay, or crest of the range, the old Franciscan Mission of Santa Barbara at once attracts attention.  Built of stone and adobe, painted white, it is outlined in bold relief against the neighboring hills, and commands a view of the entire valley.  From every part of the town the twin towers and long wing are distinctly seen, while long after Santa Barbara itself is lost to view, as one follows up the valley, the walls of the church still remain in sight.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Time and man have dealt kindly with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE MISSION.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The history of the manner in which the California Missions were crippled is full of interest.  The first Act aimed at their destruction was passed by the Mexican government in 1822.  It set the Indians at liberty, and suspended the revenues of the Fathers.  A year <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The theory of secularization was very plausible.  It was argued that, the Indians being converted, the object of the missionary system was accomplished, and that secular clergymen should now be substituted for "the regulars," or Franciscans, whom it was claimed were Spaniards, and presumably hostile to the newly acquired Mexican independence.  The real object of the agitation, however, is not hard to discover.  In return for the promise not to be molested in appropriating the "pious fund,"--the income of certain lands formerly given the Franciscans, --the Mexican government agreed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>On August 17, 1833, the first decree of secularization was passed.  It ordered the Missions converted into secular curacies; gave the secular priests nothing but the church and one house, and provided for the removal of all the Franciscan Padres.  A year later another Act placed the Missions in charge of mere commissioners.  In November, 1834, the Mission lands were ordered to be colonized, thus affording the Californians their long-sought opportunity of possessing the most productive sections of the country.</P>
033.sgm:<P>In 1835 the Mexican Congress ordered a suspension of the Act of 1833, until the new curates should be installed in their several churches.  Had this law not been passed, many of the Missions would have been left without any clergy; for the Franciscans <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:had fled the country, and their places had not yet been taken by the secular clergy.  But the new Act did not affect the secularization of the temporalities, which were already in the hands of the commissioners.  In 1837, Don Juan Alvarado, who had usurped the position of governor, began to plunder the Missions, and in some cases completely destroyed them.  In 1840 the Mexican government again attempted to restore to the clergy the absolute administration of the temporalities, but the decree was not immediately executed, and in 1842 the ruin of the Missions was practically complete.  On the 27th of April, 1840, Pope Gregory XVI. erected California into a bishopric, and named to that see Father Francisco Diego Garcia, a Mexican Franciscan, who reached California in 1842, and made his headquarters at the Santa Barbara Mission, then the best preserved of all the churches.  A year later, an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>This they are to-day, and he who was instrumental in saving what is left, the pious Diego Garcia, lies at rest in a vault beneath the floor of the Santa Barbara Mission.  Above the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The foundation of the Mission Santa Barbara had been contemplated by Father Junipero in 1782, soon after the establishment of the Presidio.  But by the death of that zealous missionary and other circumstances, its erection was delayed until 1786, when the cornerstone of an <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm:<P>It did not have the proportions of the present Mission, which was not finished until 1820.  The first church was hastily built, and was constantly being added to and improved.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The work proceeded but slowly; for there were few skilled artisans, and the Indian builders had to be taught to cut the stone, burn the brick and lime, and make the mortar.  The necessary stone was found in a neighboring can&tilde;on, but the timber had to be brought from the mountains, forty miles away.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Nearly all the California Missions were built after the same plan, being arranged in the form of a square, with a court-yard in the centre.  The church formed one side of the enclosure, and a long corridor supported by stone pillars, and covered by a low, red-tiled roof, the other.  The two remaining sides were made by the buildings used as dormitories and workshops, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:and by a high <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm:<P>The Indians were divided into squads of laborers.  At sunrise the Angelus bell was sounded, and Mass held in the church.  At its conclusion breakfast was had; after which the work of the day began.  From eleven until two o'clock there was a recess, or <HI REND="italics">siesta</HI>
033.sgm:, during which dinner was served.  The evening Angelus was rung an hour before sunset, when the Indians had supper and attended Mass; after which they amused themselves with dancing and games.  The relation of the Fathers to the Indians was always paternal; they labored to develop within them the moral instinct, and taste for labor.  In clear and forcible language they succeeded in making them comprehend the main principles of the religion that was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>To the refusal of a few of the Franciscans to obey the law for their expulsion is due the excellent preservation of the Santa Barbara Mission.  It is in far better condition than any other of the numerous churches then built.  The Padres never left it during all the years of their persecution, and after their partial return to power, began at once to repair, as nearly as possible, whatever damage had been done.  In late years the building has been still further restored, and is now presided over by a half-dozen Franciscans, who wear the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The story that they suggest is one tinged with melancholy.  The order they belong to was rich and now is poor; its power was great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Above the church an aqueduct of stone reached to a mountain stream; in another direction was a tan-yard supplied with water that coursed along an aqueduct built on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:crest of a high, thick wall.  A little further up the hill was an <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm:<P>But the old perfection no longer exists.  The village is in ruins, and only two of the many adobes now remain.  Of all the fountains only one is left.  There is but a single reservoir, and that a small one; the aqueducts are replaced by a wooden flume; many of the walls have fallen; the gardens and orchards are dilapidated; a modern roof has replaced the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:ancient red-tiled one of the wing; the grist-mill, and the statue of the bear have disappeared, and those of the Saints and Apostles are chipped and scarred.  The Indians, once so <illus entity="a033-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE MISSION WING.</P>
033.sgm:<P>And yet the view of valley and mountains, of the bay and islands, is as beautiful to-day as ever; and the church, suggestive of a time so different from this, still has much of its former glory, and all of its interest.  A fresh <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The church is long and narrow.  At one end of the nave is the altar, guarded by a wooden railing, and at the other is the choir.  On either side are two small chapels, each with its shrine and ornaments.  Midway between them and the altar is a narrow doorway opening into the cemetery; and from the sacristy to the left of the altar, one passes to the Padres' garden.  The nave is lighted by six small windows, set high above the well-worn floor.  The walls are eight feet thick, and forty feet high.  The sacristy is a large room, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The cemetery is limited in area, and occupies a space enclosed by the east side of the church, and by the high stone-wall that borders the road to Mission Can&tilde;on.  The doorway leading from it into the church is somewhat below the level of the ground, and is ornamented with three human skulls and cross-bones set in the solid masonry.  On either side of the door are thick buttresses of stone, which support the walls and the sloping red-tiled roof of the church.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The ground is thickly covered with graves, and the surrounding walls are damp and green <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The Garden of the Mission possesses charming originality of design and aspect.  Wandering about the narrow paths that radiate from the centre, where stands a splashing fountain, one is far away from what is modern and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE GARDEN.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:American.  It is filled with trees and flowering shrubs.  Over the sides of the church and the high <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>SPANISHTOWN AND LA PATERA. THERE is no other walk in Santa Barbara that enjoys a degree of popularity equal to that leading to the Mission; for none of the others have a quaint old church at their end, or are blessed with the view which is to be had from the elevated bit of ground upon which the Mission stands.  But he must be lacking in the power to love the picturesque who cannot find some enjoyment, and not a limited amount either, in rambling about the more ancient parts of the town, or visiting the less frequented byways that are not supposed at first to have an existence.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The chief charm of Santa Barbara is its naturalness.  It is nowhere in the least artificial.  The streets are wide, and overshadowing them are tall, stately eucalyptus and pepper trees that are always green, and on one or two streets are rows of stiff, foreign-looking poplars.  The houses are so situated as to allow for each its own bit of ground, which has, in nearly all cases, been beautified by shrubs and flowers.  In winter, when all forms of vegetation are fresh, the streets and sidewalks are bordered by green grass, and the dust of summer has entirely disappeared.  From November, when the first rains come, to April, when they usually are over, Santa Barbara presents such a bright, smiling, sunny face that all who look upon her become at once her lovers.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The effect produced by all this mid-winter freshness is bewildering to one who has only lately left a region locked in the arms of snow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Spanishtown is to Santa Barbara what Old Town is to Edinburgh, or the North End to Boston, --a quaintly-fashioned link connecting the past and present.  It is an odd and picturesque quarter of the town. Its area is not extended, and many of its better features have disappeared.  But still the few red-tiled <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
033.sgm:<P>One soon discovers Spanishtown.  There are numerous ways of reaching it, but the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IN SPANISHTOWN.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The first house beyond the Bank is known as the "De la Guerra Mansion."  At it was held the marriage festival described by Richard Dana, who was an interested spectator of the scene in the year 1836.  The house is built around three sides of an open court, facing the sea, and is a low, one-storied structure of thick <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm: and tiled roof.  Facing the court-yard is a deep veranda, upon which the doors and windows of the house open.  The place is still owned and inhabited by the De la Guerra family, and presents essentially the same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The next street north of that passing the De la Guerra house once belonged to Spanishtown, but is very nearly given over at present to the Chinese, who have invaded the adobe cottages and utilized them for shops.  In one they have their "Joss."  The street presents a cheap copy of "Chinatown" in San Francisco, and one rather regrets its existence.  Chinamen are an incongruity in Spanish <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
033.sgm:<P>Near Chinatown a narrow lane leads past the Theatre to the old jail of Santa Barbara.  It is partly in ruins, but the cells may be seen, and the roof still contains many of its olden tiles.  To <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>In the centre of Spanishtown is the Noreaga Garden.  It was a famous place in its day, but at present contains only a few old trees and vines that hardly dare venture a pale stray blossom.  Along the west edge of the garden extends a low <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm:, which the passing years have given a mellow coloring.  It contains a succession of small, dimly-lighted rooms, and is faced by a long veranda, roofed with bamboo sticks resting on heavy <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm:<P>They were picturesque, these Spanish <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
033.sgm:, before being relegated to obscurity behind the modern houses.  Dana describes them as being models of neatness, and it is evident, even now, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:that they commanded an unobstructed view down the valley to the sea, and across it to the mountains.  In early days the people were fond of dancing and music, and <illus entity="a033-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AN OLD TIME ADOBE.</P>
033.sgm:the streets were the scene of many a simple pleasure.  The dress of the men was like that seen in old Mexico to-day.  Horse-racing on the beach, cock-fighting and <HI REND="italics">fandangoes</HI>
033.sgm: were the favorite amusements, and the rich owners of land and cattle were veritable kings among their neighbors, and rode in state when visiting their <HI REND="italics">rancherias</HI>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The present dress of the Mexicans has generally become sadly Americanized.  Occasionally, however, one meets an old man wearing a round, bluish cloak and a red handkerchief tied beneath the <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
033.sgm:<P>The men earn a precarious living by gardening and horsebreaking, and are liberal patrons of the few saloons that have been opened in the State Street <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
033.sgm:<P>Passing through that portion of the Spanish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:colony immediately surrounding the old jail and the single wall that marks the place once occupied by the Presidio, several streets leading eastward toward the mountains conduct one to a group of low hills that slope toward a narrow vale extending down to the beach.  Here again are scattered <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
033.sgm:<P>This part of Spanishtown has been less changed than the other, and contains many delightful features.  There are verandas shaded by grapevines, in which the washtubs are set, oval-shaped bake-ovens, protected by a covering of boughs, clumps of cactus, and groves of willow-trees, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:and bright red roofs sloping nearly to the ground.  The people pursue a quiet, uneventful life, in <illus entity="a033-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A BAKING OVEN.</P>
033.sgm:<P>West of States Street, and closely following the contour of the <HI REND="italics">Mesa</HI>
033.sgm: runs Mission Creek.  Flowing from the mountains to the sea it has a diminutive valley of its own, and its banks are lined with a heavy growth of underbrush.  A short distance above where it reaches the beach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Beyond the western outskirts of Santa Barbara the hills opposite the town entirely disappear and the valley opens directly upon the waters of the channel.  In nearly the centre of this district is a limited area known as "La Patera," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>In speaking of this portion of the valley it is usually designated as "La Patera," and is understood to begin at Hope Ranch, seven miles west of Santa Barbara, and to end at Gaviota Pass.  "La Patera" means "the duck pond," a shallow pool, thickly fringed with reeds and rushes, and a famous resort for water-fowl.  In other parts of the district are numerous stretches of marsh, or tide-land, on which the hunting is extremely good.  The sea forms countless little bays, surrounded by shores covered with wild rice, and shallow estuaries extend landward for a considerable distance.  Quantities of duck and other fowl frequent these secluded feeding-grounds at various seasons, and are vigorously hunted by native and visiting sportsmen.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The best general view of La Patera, or more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:correctly, of the western Santa Barbara valley, is from the ridge directly back of the Mission, or from the towers of the church.  The prospect unfolds a beauty that is utterly indescribable.  Seen from such places of observation, all unevenness is obliterated.  To the right, guarding its northern limits, rise the rugged mountains of the Santa Ynez; to the left is the sea.  Between the two guardians lies the narrow valley.  Filled with an Italian haze, or flooded at evening with the long slanting rays of departing sunlight, its wide yellow fields are studded with bright-green live-oaks, and along the water's edge runs a curving beach of sand, frosted with a long line of whitest foam.  At one's feet is Mission Creek, winding through a grove of sycamores; beyond it are level fields, with square patches of green and yellow grain; a little to the left are the rounded hills of the Hope Ranch, with tiny Lake Fenton gleaming brightly among the oaks around <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LAKE FENTON.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>There are several ways of reaching La Patera.  The main road leads due west, past Hope Ranch and the Catholic Cemetery, through Goleta to Gaviota Pass, and is the only direct means of communication with the valley and the towns beyond the range.  Another route, but one only available for riding parties, is past the Mission to the lower foot-hills, and from thence through a succession of lanes to the main road.  The third course, which is also only for riders, is by way of Castle Rock, the beach beyond that headland, and across Hope Ranch.  It can be traversed only at low tide, and increases the distance.  It is popular with all riders, however, and is often taken by those who do not intend to go so far as La Patera, but desire an afternoon canter along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Once past Castle Rock the trail is over the sands of two crescent beaches that lie beneath an overhanging bluff rising to the top of the <HI REND="italics">Mesa</HI>
033.sgm:<P>The road is bordered on either side by cultivated fields and modest homes.  A short distance beyond Hope Ranch are the "Cathedral <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Near the landing the Indians formerly had a town of great size and importance.  Until recently its walls could be distinctly traced, but have now entirely disappeared.  Excavations have disclosed a large quantity of curiosities belonging to the forgotten tribe, and he who digs may still find many tons of strange utensils and weapons.</P>
033.sgm:<P>In regular order after leading Goleta are the large Hollister, Stowe, and Cooper ranches.  Famous as examples of what may be accomplished in the Santa Barbara valley, they are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:in themselves most delightful places, and contain much that is interesting and instructive.  The Hollister property skirts both sides of the road for several miles, and extends toward and into the mountains.  It is known as "Glen Annie."  The owner's house is embowered in trees, among which are the date, orange, lemon, peach, nectarine, and many others that have been collected from various parts of the world.  The ranch consists of <HI REND="italics">mesa</HI>
033.sgm:, valley-land, levels, and can&tilde;ons, and is a rich producer of fruits, nuts, and vegetables.  Part of the land is used for sheep and cattle grazing, while other portions are planted with fruit, almond, walnut, and olive trees.  The grounds are open to visitors, and various drives may be taken about the place and through the orchards to the can&tilde;ons of the range.  The gardens contain a large collection of shrubs, and have in addition, an avenue of palms, and a date-bearing tree <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GLEN ANNIE PALMS.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>"Ellwood," as the Cooper ranch is called, joins that of Colonel Hollister, and contains over two thousand acres of highly productive land.  It is the largest olive and walnut ranch in California.  The owner has applied to his present business the rules of a thorough commercial education, and the gratifying result is apparent to whoever pays the property a visit.  The ranch has a mile frontage on the highway, but extends back to the mountains and down to the sea.  A long, winding avenue, shaded in succession by almond, walnut, olive, and eucalyptus trees, leads to the cottage, and the latter occupies a level piece of ground at the foot of a hill guarding a can&tilde;on of the range.  It is surrounded by a grove of noble, wide-branching oaks and sycamores, and is near a garden filled at every season of the year with a profusion of flowers.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Across the creek that runs near the house are the ovens used for drying nuts, the bins in which they are washed, and the mill where the olive oil is made.  Near by are the stables and packing houses, and to the left a grove of oranges, lemons, peaches, and pears.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Beyond Ellwood is the Sturges Ranch.  It also fronts upon the road, and extends over the foot-hills to the mountains and to the shore.  From the vine-shaded piazza of the ranch-house a glimpse is had of the ocean, stretching past the end of a small valley leading to it, while in another direction one looks upon oak-clad hills and through sycamore-grown can&tilde;ons, to the higher peaks of the Santa Ynez.</P>
033.sgm:<P>From here the road runs westward, along the edge of a bluff facing the ocean, to Dos Pueblos Ranch and Gaviota Pass.  By degrees the mountains on the right press closer and closer to the shore, until at last they reach the sea, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GAVIOTA PASS.</P>
033.sgm:<P>As one proceeds, the scenery gains in grandeur.  Looking back from the Pass there is seen a bit of nature as attractive as any that Europe possesses.  Mountain and ocean, sandy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The Pass itself is a mere cleft in the mountains.  The highest point it reaches has an elevation of five hundred feet above sea level, and for two miles the road runs between rough ledges of rock that have an abrupt descent of nearly seven hundred feet to Gaviota Creek.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>BY-WAYS OF THE SANTA YNEZ. WHILE the genial climate of Santa Barbara tempts the listless idler to linger in the cool shade of his balcony or beneath the orange and lemon trees, the various places of interest to be visited invite activity.  The roads and trails leading to different places are so good that the <HI REND="italics">vis inertiae</HI>
033.sgm:<P>The sea is, naturally, the first claimant of one's attention.  Its waters are fully as blue as those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Next to the pleasure of bathing is that attending the rides along shore or over the <HI REND="italics">Mesa</HI>
033.sgm:<P>To the right of the bath-houses is Castle Rock.  From it extending westward along the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CASTLE ROCK.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:shore is the <HI REND="italics">Mesa</HI>
033.sgm:<P>On the edge of the <HI REND="italics">Mesa</HI>
033.sgm:, overlooking the channel and the waves rolling upon the shore at the foot of the bluff, is a lighthouse.  There being so few of these beacons along the coast of California, and none other in the immediate vicinity of Santa Barbara, this is known as "The Lighthouse."  It is much like others of its kind, painted white from top to base, with a brilliant lamp, that at night shines through plate-glass lenses; but has, however, a rather superior location, and enjoys more of that restful quiet which we associate with lighthouses wherever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>From where the Santa Barbara lighthouse stands the town and valley are lost to sight, and there is but a glimpse in their direction of the mountain tops.  Near the light are rolling pastures and sturdy oaks, with here and there a cottage or a grove of eucalyptus trees.  Southward, across the channel, now visible its entire length, rise the mountain islands, while at the base of the cliff the beach is seen extending westward toward Point Conception.</P>
033.sgm:<P>But who can withstand the attractions offered by accessible mountains?  Those visiting Santa Barbara cannot do so for a longer time than is necessary to know the sea-coast well; and after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Only in rare instances is there such a combination of ocean and mountains as at Santa Barbara.  The one presses upon the other, and the dividing line between the two is only a narrow valley.  As the Mediterranean is seen from the hills of Algiers, so is the Pacific from the can&tilde;ons of the Santa Ynez, --the one view the equal of the other, and both richly colored, beautiful, and extended.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The Santa Ynez Mountains have little of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>Mission Can&tilde;on, nearest Santa Barbara, is the most frequented of all.  Passing the Mission, the road to it crosses Mission Creek, and at once begins its climb into the heart of the range.  After a last glimpse of the Mission towers in one direction, and of La Patera in another, the prospect becomes limited by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SYCAMORE CAN&tilde;ON.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>The latter spots are favorite camping grounds for picnic parties.  There are few days throughout the year when the weather does not permit one to enjoy an out-of-door lunch in Mission Can&tilde;on.  On the colder days there is always an abundance of sunshine to be found; and when warm weather comes the shade of the sycamores and oaks is cool and delightful.  On the banks of the creek grow rich masses of ferns, purple lupines, and other delicately petalled flowers of varied coloring.  Here, too, are wild lilac bushes, in full bloom in February, and creeping white morning-glories, wild sunflowers, scarlet mimulus, and, in summer, snowy yucca spikes, rising high above their bayonet-like leaves.  If one but looks carefully he will find an almost infinite variety of trailing vines and fragrant flowers.  The air is laden with their perfume, and with that of the roses that here grow wild and in great abundance.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>At the extreme end of Mission Can&tilde;on are the so called Seven Falls.  The climb to them is hard.  The trail is over ledges and through tangled brushwood, and can only be followed on foot.  But the falls are well worth seeing.  The water leaps from basin to basin, and in silvery threads flows down the steep walls of rock.  The scenery is wild and picturesque.  Peak overhangs peak; and blackened trees, robbed by fire of their foliage, rise above the rocks, or lie stretched upon the ground.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Near the Mission Can&tilde;on is the "Rattlesnake."  Leading from the former, it is fully as picturesque as its neighbor, and may be followed on horseback for a distance of several miles.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Glen Loch, formerly called Bartlett's Can&tilde;on, opens upon La Patera.  The road to it crosses Stowe's ranch, touches upon the Hollister property, and ends, at last, in a grove of live-oaks.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>And they must surely have found it.  At the grove, near which runs a stream of fresh, cold water, the overhanging summits of the range are close at hand, and at their base are tree-grown foot-hills.  Toward the south are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The number of can&tilde;ons in the Santa Ynez exceeds their variety.  Some are wider and longer than others, but all have that attractiveness which need only be enjoyed once to render the by-paths favorite haunts with all lovers of the picturesque.  In Sycamore Can&tilde;on, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:opening near Santa Barbara, the trees giving it their name grow in rich abundance along the sides of the creek; and the trail, following the windings of the latter, leads past mossy banks to many a secluded spot commanding a view of the mountains and often of the sea.  In Cold Spring Can&tilde;on, near by, the trail may be followed until the range itself is crossed.  All the way there is a succession of extended views, as the path climbs to high ridges, or winds through narrow defiles with steep ledges of rock on either side.  The can&tilde;on opens into the Montecito valley, and for a mile or more is filled with oaks, shrubs, and vines.  Through the centre of the ravine, that grows more and more narrow as it penetrates deeper into the range, flows Cold Spring Creek, which afterwards continues down the El Montecito valley.  The trail follows and crosses it.  Here the banks are low and moss-grown, and again <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>San Ysidro Can&tilde;on opens upon the eastern end of El Montecito, and the view from its entrance embraces not only the Montecito <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Another can&tilde;on opening upon El Montecito contains a group of hot sulphur springs that are widely famous.  They are found at an elevation of 1,300 feet above sea level, and surround a small hotel designed for the accommodation of those desiring to test the waters.  Every variety of bath is given, and the hotel overlooks El Montecito and the bay.  Near it is Lookout Point, a wooded headland from which the coast is visible for many miles.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The springs were discovered in 1855, but had long been known to the Indians, who often <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MONTECITO HOT SPRINGS.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>A regular stage makes daily trips to the Hot Springs can&tilde;on.  The road leads through El Montecito to the foothills, and from there up a series of steep grades to the hotel.  The gorge is filled with trees, and down its centre runs a mountain stream.</P>
033.sgm:<P>But wander where he will among the by-paths of the Santa Ynez one will be sure to find something of interest.  The range is richly stored with isolated nooks and corners.  The better they are known the more they are appreciated.  A day may be passed among the can&tilde;ons, or weeks given <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>THE OJAI VALLEY. EARLY spring in Southern California is a most delightful season.  The rains are over, the air is perfumed with flowers, the foot-hills are green, and vegetation is enjoying its freshest period.  Almonds have begun to form, the sycamores are in full leaf, the walnut-trees are in bud, the orange and lemon groves are filled with blossoms and clusters of ripe fruit.  Peach, apricot, fig, and pear trees are all in bloom, and the fields are covered with grain and flax.  By April, when one begins to take pilgrimages into the country, Nature is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The gardens at Santa Barbara are marvellously beautiful.  They are never without their flowers.  In April the rose-bushes bend with blossoms, and the violet beds are miniature seas of blue.  There are clusters of heliotrope and hedges of geraniums and verbenas.  Golden marigolds line the walks, and the hollyhocks grow higher than one can reach.  Callas, magnolias, camellias, pinks, and poppies are scattered in profusion among the varicolored roses, and crowning all are the orange, fig, and lemon trees.</P>
033.sgm:<P>To really see southern California one must go into the mountains and visit the valleys that extend for sixty or a hundred miles back from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Its composition is varied.  Mountains overlook quite vales, and there are wide fields and rolling hills, and the sea is rarely lost to sight.  One forgets to wish for castles and curious towns, and is fully satisfied with what he finds.  Even the history of the region is sufficient when it is remembered that here the Indians of prehistoric times used to live, and that later the Franciscan Fathers, following the Spanish discoverers, established their Missions and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Thirty-seven miles southeast from Santa Barbara is the valley of the Ojai (Ohi).  Lying in the embrace of the Santa Ynez Mountains, and reached by a narrow winding road leading through the Casitas Pass, the Valley is widely celebrated for its many beauties, and is without question one of the most beautiful parks of the range.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Although only twelve miles inland, the Ojai has an elevation of 1,200 feet, and its climate is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>The view from "Oak Glen" is extended and picturesque.  The mountains are visible in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>In no other part of California are the oaks so abundant as at the Ojai.  There are forests of the ever-graceful trees, and in whichever direction one rides the road winds past the gnarled trunks and beneath the abundant shade.  They grow in the can&tilde;ons, in the fields, and on the hillsides.  Beneath them the grass is as free from brush as in a well-kept park.  The leaves are always green, and some of the trees are gigantic in size.</P>
033.sgm:<P>By leaving Santa Barbara early in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>By degrees the trail grows steeper, and in time the valley lies far below, and is seen winding off among the foot-hills toward the sea.  Now the slopes are treeless, and the wild-flowers more abundant.  Acres of them grow by the roadside, --blood-red clover, bright yellow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:violets, purple thistles, ascalcias, and anemones, --all making a carpet of many hues and great beauty.  We counted over seventy varieties as we rode along, and without stopping to discover all that grow.  The air was fragrant with their perfume.  Just where they were most abundant the trail crossed an elevated spur of the mountains.  In one direction lay the Ojai, choked with trees, and in another were the valleys of Carpenteria, El Montecito, and Santa Barbara, and at their side the ocean, with its islands and long line of yellow beach.  No other view in all the Casitas Pass compares with this from its highest point.  Comprising valley, sea, mountain, and narrow can&tilde;ons, it embraces an area of many miles, and reveals all that is most beautiful in California.  As we looked we saw a steamer, seeming scarcely larger than a rowboat, round the point of land guarding Santa Barbara's harbor, and through the trees of the valley could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Later we drove down a series of sharp declines, and were soon among the trees and ferns once more.  Here we crossed wide, shallow streams, and again were surrounded by oaks and sycamores.  The rivers are famous fishing-grounds.  We saw many an angler standing up to his knees in the water, casting his fly into sheltered trout-pools, and in places came upon camps made among the trees.  The wild-flowers were now more abundant than ever; the fields contained myriads of them.  We picked armfuls and tied them to our carriage, until it was a moving bower of bright colors and sweet perfumes.  As we entered the Ojai proper, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:and neared Oak Glen, the country grew more level.  Fields, fringed or dotted with groves, surrounded us on every side.  The air was fresh and invigorating.  Shutting us in on all sides were the mountains, but before us was the valley, --in the shadow of the hills on one side, but sunlit on the other.  Now and then a jack-rabbit ran with long strides across our road, and ground-squirrels chattered at us as we drove past.  Cattle and sheep were feeding in the pastures; and at intervals we passed an orange or olive grove and the cottage of its owner.  As a rule, however, there was but little cultivation, and nature held undisputed sway.  Even Nordhoff itself is not at variance with the natural characteristics of the valley.  Its houses are all cottages, and are shaded by trees and surrounded by flower-beds.  The road runs directly through the centre of the sleepy town, and immediately afterwards is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>There are two valleys of the Ojai, --the upper and lower.  A low range of hills causes the division, and from its crest is obtained a bird's-eye view of the entire region.  The lower Ojai has a larger area than the upper, but is less cultivated.  It is about ten miles long by three wide.  Opening into it from the north is the Matilija Can&tilde;on, --a long narrow defile leading into the range to some sulphur springs.  The creek that flows down it is full of trout.  The lower end of the can&tilde;on is overgrown with brush, sycamores, and oaks.  Higher up, however, there is little vegetation, and the stream rushes headlong over a mass of fallen rock and bowlders.  A well-made trail has been made to the springs and is often used by riding parties.  Following it one day we visited the springs, and whiled away hours fishing, reading, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>At the extreme end of the upper Ojai is the Santa Paula Can&tilde;on, that leads to the Santa Clara valley, where "Ramona" lived and was first seen by "Alessandro."  Driving to it we spread our luncheon on the banks of a narrow stream, and rested in the shadow of the trees that grew all about us.  The vegetation was that of New England in midsummer, --rank, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The next day, mounted on sure-footed horses, we climbed Sulphur Mountain, which rises high above its neighbors on the south side of the Ojai, and whose summit is reached by a hard climb over a hardly defined trail.  As the altitude increased, the prospect broadened.  First a portion, and then the entire length of the valley we had left became visible, and beyond it rose the gaunt, bare peaks of the Sierra Madre range, lying far to the north.  At times the trail, always winding, led through almost impenetrable forests of trees and brush, and again ran along the crest of an exposed ridge, where there was nothing to obstruct the view.  On gaining the summit, however, all other visions faded into insignificance.  For now, looking westward, the Pacific was seen, and the coast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>IDLE DAYS IN THE SANTA CLARA. FROM the southeastern end of Carpenteria to Ventura, a distance of nearly fifteen miles, the Coast Range closely borders the Pacific.  At the base of its high but grass-grown hills are crescent-shaped beaches of sand, along the edge of which the stage makes its daily trips.</P>
033.sgm:<P>A ride on the box-seat of this slow-going vehicle, that is pulled over the shining sands by four sturdy horses, is delightful.  The stage leaves Santa Barbara early, and reaches Ventura at noon; and the half-day passes all too rapidly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:as one listens to the driver's stories, or sleepily watches the sea rolling in upon the beaches, and surging among the shell-covered rocks that are strewn about the road.  One of the oldest drivers on the route is "Dave," as he is familiarly called.  He is tanned by the sun and is as little given to emotion as a Sphinx.  The morning he drove us to Ventura was one of those indescribably perfect ones that are so frequent in early April, --bright and warm, and fragrant with the odor of flowers, now in perfection of growth and bloom.  On the way to Carpenteria we drove through yellow thickets of wild mustard, and later, past low sand-hills that were covered with bright flowers.  In the can&tilde;ons of the Santa Ynez were rifting banks of light-gray fog; but seaward the sky was clear, and the white-crested waves formed a spotless fluting between the yellow sands and deep blue sea.  It is never the same, this road to Ventura.  The fields are forever changing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>On nearing Ventura, or San Buenaventura, as the Spaniards called it, the road leaves the beach and crosses a group of sand-dunes to the river that flows past the edge of the town.  In winter, when the rains have swollen it, the stream is often impassable for days, delaying the mails and completely isolating Santa Barbara from the outer world.  Usually, however, it is shallow and easily forded.  Once past it we entered the sleepy limits of Ventura, and from the main street could see far up the broad valley of the Santa Clara, --the same grand thoroughfare through the Coast Range that is visible from Sulphur Mountain in the Ojai, and which is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>It is nearly fifty miles long, and is guarded on either side by low hills that gain in height the farther east they are.  At the end of the valley, where it opens upon the sea, is Ventura, and from it wide, flat fields extend for fifteen miles toward the east and south.  The town is the natural shipping port of the region, and promised at one time to be of considerable size.  At present it has less than five thousand inhabitants, and is a listless, prettily located town, commanding a view of the Pacific and of the valley.</P>
033.sgm:<P>In nearly the centre of Ventura stands the old Franciscan Mission, a heavy, white-walled building, settled at the base of a hill, and having a broad fac&cedil;ade, on one side of which rises a massive tower.  The church is in a fair state of preservation, but the outer walls are covered with the stains of age.  The nave is long and narrow.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>The row of little <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm:<P>There was once considerable rivalry between Ventura and Santa Barbara, and there is even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>Much excitement has been caused in past years by the oil discoveries made in southern California.  There are several wells in the Ojai, and others near Newhall, at the head of the Santa Clara.  In Wheeler's Can&tilde;on, a few miles east of Ventura, is a supply of queen oil much in demand for illumination.  Tunnels have been run into the hill, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Beyond Ventura the stage-road up the Santa Clara is nearly due east.  At its mouth the valley is fifteen miles wide, but soon grows narrower, and eight miles inland has only an average width of from three to five miles.  On either side of the highway are cultivated, level fields, some planted with grain and flax, others covered with fruit-groves.  To the right of the road, coursing down the south side of the valley, runs the Santa Clara River, filled when we saw it, in April, with swiftly flowing waters, but which in summer is a mere rivulet struggling against wastes of sand.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>It is impossible to foretell the future of the Santa Clara valley.  It contains thousands of acres of rich farm-land, and its climate is particularly adapted to the growth of fruits and cereals.  The river affords sufficient water for irrigation, and besides it are several smaller streams flowing into the valley from the northern range of hills.  The ranches vary in size, and contain from two hundred to two thousand acres.  The region was formerly a single Spanish grant, but subdivision took place long ago, and to-day small farms are the rule rather than the exception.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Fifteen miles east of Ventura is Santa Paula, a village occupying the centre of the valley and consisting of one main street faced by a few wooden stores.  South of the town runs the Santa Clara, forcing its way along the base of the hills.  Toward the north is the range forming the southern limits of the Ojai, and through which extends the Santa Paula Can&tilde;on, opening into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:valley a little to the east.  The shortest route from the Ojai to Santa Paula is down this can&tilde;on.  The road follows the windings of a noisy creek, and the scenery <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
033.sgm:<P>At the mouth of the can&tilde;on, and overlooking the valley and town, is a typical California fruit-ranch.  It formerly contained nearly a thousand acres, and embraced not only Santa Paula, but the land across the river and up the can&tilde;on.  It has been divided now, one of the original owners taking the fruit-groves, and the other the pasture-land and apricot-orchards.  The vineyard is small, and so is the olive-patch, but the orange and lemon trees cover more than two hundred acres.  Wagon loads of the luscious fruits are sent off every day to Ventura, and the trees lend a rich green color to the landscape.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The original home of the joint owners of the property is set on high ground and overlooks the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>A California fruit-ranch affords a visitor almost infinite enjoyment, and to the owner is more than likely to return a liberal profit.  Unlike the stock-ranches of the great middle West, it is invariably a most delightful home, whether a profitable one or not.  The products of the several ranches near Santa Barbara are varied, some being olives, others oranges or other fruits, and many nothing but walnuts.  It is questionable which product yields the most money.  In the Santa Ynez valley the climate and soil seem best <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>As a rule, oranges grow best the farther away from the sea they are.  The trees do not need a particularly rich soil.  Indeed, some of the best groves are on land that would not grow anything else.  Water is used but sparingly.  The ground is kept free of weeds and is ploughed at regular intervals.  A grove that is from ten to fifteen years old ought to, and often does, yield a handsome return.  The trees are planted in long rows, and are protected from high winds by eucalyptus trees, which grow rapidly and attain a great height.  An orange-grove is never without fruit, which ripens early in the spring.  Before it is picked, the blossoms have appeared, and the young oranges have formed; so that by the time the old fruit is gathered, the new is ready for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>It was one long holiday for us at the Santa Paula ranch, --an early breakfast, a visit to the grove, the drive to town for the mail, quiet canters about the country, a picnic in the can&tilde;on, and fishing-trips along the creek.  Although the month was April, --fickle and cold in the East, --it was like June in the Santa Clara.  The grain was knee-high, the groves were in bloom, the wildflowers carpeted all the fields.  From the veranda we could see far up and down the valley, --eastward to where the hills came together and formed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>Some one ought to write a poem about the Santa Clara valley.  It possesses little historical interest, to be sure, but otherwise would easily invoke one's Muse.  It has an Arcadian simplicity, but its coloring is superb, delicately shaded afar off, but clear and varied near at hand, a happy mingling of rich contrasts, and with every hue intensified and pronounced.</P>
033.sgm:<P>It is such a restful region too.  The people work, but do not worry.  The lack of animation might be wearisome in time, but for a month is enjoyable.  All are farmers, --one waiting to gather his crops, another to pick his fruits.  And while they wait the valley slumbers, and the river steals noiselessly down it to the sea.  Such nights <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>But to those interested in making it profitable, a ranch is not forever the scene of idle dreaming.  There is always something that needs attention.  There is the grain to sow and harvest, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>THE HOME OF "RAMONA." MOST persons living in southern California have read or are still reading "H. H.'s" "Ramona."  It is the strongest plea for popular indignation against the abuses practised in regard to southern California Indians that has ever been made.  It is also a delightful story.  Its pictures of the California life of a quarter or half a century ago are perfect.  "H. H." visited the places she described, and has woven a wonderfully perfect picture of them into her story.  The driver who now takes you to visit old San Diego has heard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>"Father Gaspara's house was at the end of a long, low <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm: building, which had served no mean purpose in the old Presidio days, but has now fallen into decay; and all its rooms, except those occupied by the Father, had been long uninhabited.  On the opposite side of the way, in a neglected, weedy open, stood his chapel--a poverty-stricken little place, its walls imperfectly whitewashed, decorated by a few coarse pictures and by broken sconces of looking-glass, rescued in their dilapidated condition from the Mission buildings now utterly gone to ruin. . . .  Here was the spot where that grand old Franciscan, Padre Junipero Serra, began <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:his work, full of the devout and ardent purpose to reclaim the wilderness and its peoples to his <illus entity="a033-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SOUTHEAST CORNER.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>It is all just the same now, --the low <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm:, the palms, the beach, and northward the coast line, with its "succession of rounding promontories walling-the mouths of can&tilde;ons, down many of which small streams make to the sea.  These can&tilde;ons are green and rich at bottom, and filled with trees, chiefly oak.  Beginning as little more than rifts in the ground, they deepen and widen till at their mouths they have a beautiful crescent of shining beach from an eighth to a quarter of a mile long."  Galloping past these "rounding promontories," Ramona and Alessandro rode into old San Diego.  The railroad now follows the same route, and after leaving the beach runs up the Santa Margarita Can&tilde;on, which Ramona thought a "beautiful world" when she first gazed upon its trees, which "seen from above looked like a solid bed of moss filling in the can&tilde;on bottom."  It lends to San Diego and vicinity an interest they never had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>That there was unjust persecution of the Indians after California was ceded to the United States is unquestionably true; land steals were frequent.  The Government obtained more territory than it knew how to protect and care for.  The Indians were in the way of settlers, and they had to leave; many were bought out, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>So, leaving the matter to be discussed when the question can have proper attention, come <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:with me on a two days' visit to the Camulos ranch, where the heroine Ramona lived with the Sen&tilde;ora Moreno and her foster-brother Felipe, and where she met Alessandro at the sheep-shearing season.  We shall find a second Sen&tilde;ora Moreno, calm and iron-willed, but kind and gentle, and not hating the Americans as did the first sen&tilde;ora we knew; and we shall find a second Ramona too, and another Felipe, and shall see Juan Can lounging about the sheep-corrals, and maids doing the week's washing at the creek, down by the artichoke-patch.  Yes, and there will be coquettish Margarita, and old Marda the cook, and the chapel, and the olive-patch, and the verandas, with their vines and linnets' nests.  The story will seem like reality to us as we wander about.  We can visit the Sen&tilde;ora's room, with its Saints and Madonnas, and see where good Father Salvierderra used to sleep, and where Baba was corralled, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The Camulos ranch comprises 1,400 acres of sheep, vineyard, and fruit land, and is situated nearly at the head of the Santa Clara valley.  Eighteen miles eastward is the town of Newhall, on the Southern Pacific railroad, and nearly forty miles westward are Ventura and the Pacific Ocean.  On the south runs the Santa Clara River, flowing past low, reed-grown banks, and along the edge of high, undulating hills.  On the north are gently sloping pastures, that extend back to other hills.  The property is owned by a Spanish family, consisting of the Sen&tilde;ora, her son, aged about forty, her daughter, son-in-law, and several others, male and female, young and old.  The Sen&tilde;ora's husband is dead.  The ranch is valuable property, and its olives have a wide reputation for excellence.  Just behind the house, and passing near the barn and sheep corrals, runs the county-road, extending from Newhall to Ventura.  No railroad has yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>But the head of the house is not free to all who come.  She sees them at table, where she always sits at the head, and passes them as she walks about the place.  But conversation with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:the strangers the Sen&tilde;ora does not have.  She leaves such work to her sons and people.  But if one brings letters or is known, the calm, strong face is all smiles, and the private rooms of the house are opened; and in rare instances the Sen&tilde;ora exhibits the treasures of her chests, and shows rare old laces, and embroidered clothes, and heavy silks, that were worn when she was a girl.  She has each article marked with the date of its purchase, and in a box are all the paid bills of the finery.  She has read "Ramona," and points out the places described in the book.  "Some there are who come here," she says, in her pure, melodious Spanish, "who think to find the real Sen&tilde;ora and the real Ramona.  But they are not here, although this is the house.  I was away when Mrs. Jackson was here.  She never saw me.  But she came to the ranch, and her description of it is very good and very true.  Yes, we employ Indians for shearing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Among the Sen&tilde;ora's possessions--she showed them all to us one day--is a photograph that might well be that of Ramona.  It is the face <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:of a young girl.  The eyes are large and wistful, the mouth beautiful and sensitive, the dress quaint and picturesque.  The hair, brushed square away from the parting, hangs in heavy masses around a low, wide brow; the hands are small.  Surely Ramona must so have looked as she went about the ranch, --now speaking kindly to old fussy Juan Can, and again helping Margarita out of some trouble, or leading the pious Father about the garden-walks.  One can easily see that the Sen&tilde;ora lives to be obeyed.  She is everywhere about the ranch and out at the stables, in the wine room, in the garden, among the orchards.  It is always "Si, Sen&tilde;ora" when she gives an order; and all obey when she speaks in her calm, imperious way.  She does not speak or understand English, but her people do, and when we do not understand, the Sen&tilde;ora orders her words or ours translated, and then goes on with her story.  Often we sit with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:her these bright, warm, moonlit evenings, --she and all of us on the long, wide settee that stands on the veranda overlooking the garden in which is the chapel, --and listen to what she says.  They are delicious nights we are having now.  Cool enough for shawls and coats, they are sufficiently warm to enable us to sit out in the open air until late; and the south veranda, on which Alessandro made the rawhide bed for Felipe, is always attractive, night or day.  At eight o'clock the big, cracked Spanish bell hanging near the house is rung, and the Sen&tilde;ora, with prayer-book in hand, walks slowly to the chapel, where evening prayers are said.  Following her are the women of the household and a few of the men.  The altar is lighted with candles.  Through the open doorway we can see the kneeling group, and, standing by the fountain, under the orange and lemon trees, can hear the Sen&tilde;ora reading and the responses made.  After <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:prayers are over we all gather on the veranda, the Sen&tilde;ora in the centre.  Or else we wander off about the grounds, --now going to the wine-presses, where a fire is brightly burning under the distilling boiler, and again to the garden, where the air is heavy with the perfume of orange-blossoms, and the moonlight falls in strange figures upon the gravelled walks.  It does not seem as though we were in America or living in this century.  The white, heavy walls of the house, the Spanish words we hear, the prayers in the chapel, the quiet, are all foreign.  It is Spain once more, and near by, so it seems, there must be the Alhambra or an ancient city.  But it is America, and California, and better yet, it is the home of Ramona.  At our side is the window of her room.  There she whispered to Alessandro, and there he heard her lisping out her prayers while he watched by the side of Felipe.  It is the Sen&tilde;ora Moreno's veranda; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:who can doubt it?  There is the end, looking like a "balcony or loggia;" here are the flowers, <illus entity="a033-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SOUTH VERANDA.</P>
033.sgm:and "great red water-jars" filled with fine "geraniums, carnations, and yellow-flowered musk.  Besides these were many sorts of climbing-vines, some coming from the ground and twining around the pillars of the veranda, some growing in great bowls, swung by cords <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The road we took from the ranch to the Camulos led directly up the Santa Clara valley from Santa Paula, through a garden-like region, shut in on the north and south by parallel ranges of mountains, and extending east and west so far as the eye could see.  Four of us drove, and one mounted on her pony rode beside us, and kept us well supplied with wild-flowers, of which there were acres along the roadside.  Beyond the Sespe River they became more and more abundant.  They covered the hillsides, and lay in great patches by the side of the road.  Our route was that which Father Salvierderra followed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>No wonder the good Father often stopped to enjoy the beauty of the scene, or was late in reaching the end of the long journey he had made.  One cannot travel very rapidly when there is so much to see and to enjoy.  Near where we stopped to eat our luncheon, in the shadow of a huge live-oak tree, the fields were carpeted with flowers of every imaginable color, --clover and buttercups, sunflowers and wild sweet-sage, thistle and cacti, --all girded by green grasses.  As we drew near the ranch, --which we first caught sight of from the crest of a low hill overlooking a wide, flat basin dotted with wheat-fields and groves and white-walled Indian huts, --we drove through the thickets of wild-mustard, such as delayed the Father, and in which he met Ramona.  "The wild-mustard in southern California is like that spoken of in the New Testament, in the branches of which the birds of the air may rest.  Coming up out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The thickets grew higher than our heads as we sat in our wagon, and the branches fluttered and bent far over as the birds rested on them; and away on the distant hillsides we could still see the "feathery gold" sharply outlined against a background of rich green.  Passing the Indian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:village, --a collection of brown <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm: huts, with big-eyed, half-naked babies sitting in open doorways or playing about the irrigating-ditches, --we forded another stream, and then, following a row of willows and cottonwood trees, came to the corrals and barn belonging to the ranch.  The road to the house leads along the side of the pens, past an orange-grove, to an outer yard formed by the store-houses and kitchen-shed.  Here we were met by Sen&tilde;or D--, who had our horses taken away, and led us to the east veranda of Ramona's home.  Two of the rooms given us opened upon the veranda that Juan Can must have used when he sat with his legs stretched out, and a target for the saucy sayings of Margarita and the other girls of the Sen&tilde;ora's household.  Our other room was that which Father Salvierderra used always to occupy, and which is to-day used by the priests who come once a year to hold service in the little chapel.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:It had two windows, "one to the south and the other to the east," and the doorway opened upon the south veranda.  Very soon after our arrival supper was served in a dining-room hung about with orange-branches, with the golden fruit still clinging to them.  "The dining-room was on the opposite side of the courtyard from the kitchen, and there was a perpetual procession of small messengers going back and forth....At last supper was ready, --a great dish of spiced beef and cabbage in the centre of the table; a tureen of thick soup, with forcemeat balls and red peppers in it; two red earthen platters heaped, one with boiled rice and onions, the other with the delicious <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
033.sgm: (beans) so dear to all Mexican hearts."  Such was the meal we had served to us, and before going to it we had seen the "perpetual procession of small messengers" carrying the steaming dishes across the court.  There were decanters of home-made wine, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>"The Sen&tilde;ora Moreno's house was one of the best specimens to be found in California of the representative house of the half-barbaric, half-elegant, wholly generous and free-handed life led there by Mexican men and women of degree in the early part of this century.  When it was built General Moreno owned all the land within a radius of forty miles, --forty miles westward down the valley to the sea; forty miles eastward into the San Fernando mountains; and good forty miles more or less along the coast....The house was of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm:, low, with a wide veranda on the three sides of the inner court, and a still broader one across the entire front, which looked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The east side of the court is open and is bordered by a grove of orange-trees.  In the centre of the yard is a fountain, and lining the walks are orange and lemon trees and flowering-shrubs, now in full bloom.  The veranda-top is entwined with grape-vines, and the ground-floor beneath is daily swept, and has been packed as hard as cement.  The kitchen occupies a house by itself.  Next the cooking-room is the laundry.  The present cook of the ranch is an Apache Indian.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:He is forever busy, and the savory smells from his stove are always there.  In one small room back of the kitchen lives an old Indian who is blind.  He has been with the family many years, and is now passing his remaining days in happy idleness, much as Juan Can did after breaking his leg at the shearing.  The bedrooms opening upon the veranda have low, wide windows and open fireplaces.  The walls are hung with pictures of Saints, and in that of the Sen&tilde;ora are statues, and rosaries, and shrines.  There are rarely less than twenty-three people all living at Camulos at the same time, and often the number is doubled.  Maids and children are everywhere.  The Sen&tilde;ora has for the younger people, in the long parlor of the house, an organ and a piano-forte, on which the bright-eyed little ones practise.  "Between the (south) veranda and the river meadows, out on which it looked, all was garden, orange-groves and almond-orchard, --the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The garden comes close to the edge of the veranda.  It is filled with trees, --mostly orange, but with a few lemon, cypress, and oleander, --and in the centre stands a large fountain-basin, in which are gold-fish.  Beneath the trees are flower-beds, banks of geraniums and marigolds, rose-trees, and lilies; and in the vines that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:Sen&tilde;ora has growing over the fence separating the garden from the artichoke patch, linnets and other birds have built their nests.  Down the left side of the fragrant little square, always warm and sweet, and ever beautiful at whatever hour one visits it, is a long, high grape-arbor that leads to a little brook at the foot of it.  "Across this brook, in the shade of a dozen old gnarled willow-trees, were set the broad, flat stone-wash-boards on which was done all the family washing.  No long dawdling, and no running away from work on the part of the maids, thus close to the eye of the Sen&tilde;ora at the upper end of the garden; and if they had known how picturesque they looked there, kneeling on the grass, lifting the dripping linen out of the water, rubbing it back and forth on the stones,....they would have been content to stay at the washing day in and day out, for there was always somebody to look on from above."  It was there Ramona took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:the altar-cloth after Margarita had let it get soiled; and there, too, she was first seen by Alessandro, who stood motionless at the sight which greeted him.  To the right of the fountain, half hid among the overhanging branches of the trees and covered with vines, is <illus entity="a033-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CHAPEL.</P>
033.sgm:the chapel.  It "was dearer to the Sen&tilde;ora than her house.  It had been built by the General in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:the second year of their married life.  In it her four children had been christened, and from it all but one, her handsome Felipe, had been buried while they were yet infants....The altar was surrounded by a really imposing row of holy and apostolic figures, which had looked down on the splendid ceremonies of the San Luis Rey Mission....That one had lost an eye, another an arm, that the once brilliant colors of the drapery were now faded and shabby, only enhanced the tender reverence with which the Sen&tilde;ora knelt before them, her eyes filling with indignant tears at the thought of the heretic hands which had wrought such defilement."  It was Ramona who kept the altar and vases supplied with flowers.  On the chapel steps, Alessandro, in the first flush of his love, kneeled, so as to be near her when she came out from the mass which Father Salvierderra said the morning after his arrival.  The altar is still supplied with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:flowers and statues, and pictures adorn the walls.  In a chest of drawers are the rich vestments which the Sen&tilde;ora keeps for the use of the priests; and among them is shown the altar-cloth, of delicate Spanish workmanship, which Ramona mended.  The place of the rent in it is still to <illus entity="a033-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE BELLS.</P>
033.sgm:be seen.  To the right of the chapel, in one corner of the garden, is a frame holding a trio of old Spanish bells.  The largest is rung for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>But wherever one goes about the Camulos ranch he will find much to see and enjoy.  There is the river, hurrying over its shifting sands and sweeping near the vineyard.  There are many cool, shady retreats these warm, summer-like days; and behind the house are the stables and corrals, where at evening there is a confused noise of bleating kids and lambs, and twittering swallows dashing in and out of their nests of mud beneath the eaves of the barn.  In a long <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
033.sgm: and stone building are the Sen&tilde;ora's store rooms; casks of wine and olives, boxes of grapes and dried fruits are there in profusion.  Near this are the chicken, turkey, and duck grounds, and the carpenter's shop and blacksmith's forge.  Brandy is now being made in the distillery, and in the olive-groves the fruit has already begun to form.  Every morning the birds wake us with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<P>FACTS WORTH KNOWING. THE present population of Santa Barbara is about five thousand, and is steadily increasing, owing to the reputation which the place enjoys as a sanitarium.  Isolated as it is, the seekers after the picturesque, and invalids anxious to regain their health, have found it.</P>
033.sgm:<P>There are two ways of reaching Santa Barbara.  A regular line of steamers runs between it and San Francisco, Los Angeles, and San Diego, the largest ships leaving either city every three days, and smaller boats making trips at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>By water the distance to San Francisco is three hundred miles, and to Los Angeles one hundred.  Steamers for the former city leave Santa Barbara at ten P.M., and reach their destination early in the morning of the second day.  A long stop, however, is made at Port Harford, thus reducing the time from port to port to less than thirty hours.  For Los Angeles the hour <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Between Los Angeles and Santa Barbara the ocean is rarely rough enough to cause sea-sickness.  In going to San Francisco, however, one must be a good sailor to escape being ill.  In the channel, followed nearly to Port Harford, the water is generally calm.  At the present time a new railroad through Santa Barbara has been surveyed, which will probably be completed by 1887.  It begins at Newhall, and passing down the Santa Clara valley, follows the coast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE ARLINGTON.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The Santa Barbara hotels are numerous and good, there being two commercial houses and two that are particularly for tourists.  There are, besides, a large number of private boarding-houses, at which one may obtain home comforts at reasonable rates.  Of the hotels the "Arlington" and the "Ellwood," both owned by Colonel W. W. Hollister, compare favorably with those of other resorts.  They are separated by an open block, and occupy a commanding situation overlooking the bay and town.  The "Arlington" is a three-storied wooden building, surrounded on two sides by a wide piazza, from the cool shade of which are seen the mountains.  In another direction beyond the town is the bay.  The table is supplied with delicacies from Colonel Hollister's ranch, and enjoys a wide reputation for many excellencies.  The ground-floor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE ARLINGTON VERANDA.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The "Ellwood" was originally the Santa Barbara College building.  It is of brick, three stories high, and is surrounded by a wide piazza, and garden filled with flowers and containing a large live-oak that gives an abundant shade.  The house enjoys with the "Arlington" the advantages offered by the Hollister ranch, and is a carefully conducted and exceedingly comfortable hotel.  It is also owned by Colonel Hollister.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The commercial houses are on State Street.  They are patronized by business men.  Near them is the "White House," one of the oldest boarding-houses in the city.  It occupies a corner lot and faces a grove that extends back to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The boarding-houses are scattered at random about the town, and in nearly every instance are surrounded by a garden filled with shrubs and trees.  Some are larger than others, but all are comfortable homes.  Board at such places is reasonable, and the table fare is excellent.</P>
033.sgm:<P>A popular custom at Santa Barbara is to rent small cottages for a year or season and keep house.  Others simplify matters by hiring cottages to live in, and take their meals at the hotels or boarding-houses.  The price for unfurnished cottages varies from $10 to $40 per month.  For furnished houses the rates are from $20 to $75, according to location and size.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The cottages make charming homes for those enjoying an easy existence and phenomenal climate.  The servant question is troublesome at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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033.sgm:<P>But all social forms are not disregarded.  On the contrary, they are upheld.  There is much intercourse among the people.  The society is delightful, but foolishly fashionable it is not.  The taste is not for display in any particular.  Mental and social qualities, rather than riches, are at a premium.  Freedom in dress and in the manner of living is allowed without question.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The Santa Barbara wharf is one of the best on the coast.  It extends twenty-two hundred feet into the bay, and rests on heavy piles.  For <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Town lots command from $75 to $7,000 each, according to their location.  The cost of living is as low as in most places, while the products of the gardens greatly reduce the absolute expense of the table.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The business interests of the town are unimportant.  There is no manufacturing and all trade is retail.  The stores face upon State Street and are mostly of wood, there being but few brick or stone buildings.  There are two banks, the First National and the Santa Barbara County, several public schools, and an excellent public library.  The telegraph and express offices are near the post-office.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The population is largely composed of those who make the place their home because of illness, or for the sake of the natural beauties that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>But to those not able to lead a life of idleness while regaining their health, Santa Barbara offers few opportunities.  Positions of a clerical nature are difficult to obtain; and there is little encouragement for one to establish a business of his own.</P>
033.sgm:<P>To a man commanding capital, however, there are, out of town, opportunities more or less good.  A carefully attended stock-farm, a small orange or nut orchard, and market-gardens may all be made profitable.  Land appreciates in value every year.</P>
033.sgm:<P>There still remains some desirable country property, but the total amount of arable land is not large.  In the Carpenteria valley there are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>El Montecito is particularly adapted to horticulture.  The soil is light and dry.  Land is worth from $250 to $300 per acre.  The region is being rapidly settled, and contains many valuable estates owned by Eastern visitors.  Water, for both drinking and irrigating purposes, is taken from mountain streams.  An orange-ranch equal in size and age to that of the "San Ysidro" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A CARPENTERIA COTTAGE.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Around Goleta, five miles west of Santa Barbara, there are about 2,000 acres of agricultural land, worth from $100 to $200 per acre, according to location and quality.  It is generally level and easily cultivated.  One wishing proof of its productiveness has only to examine the Hollister and other ranches near by to be convinced that whatever is planted will grow.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Other farming districts are in the Santa Ynez, Lompoc, Santa Maria, and Los Alamos valleys.  That of Lompoc contains over 35,000 acres of arable land and 160 farm-tracts.  The soil is rich, and its products are similar to those of the Santa Barbara valley.  The district has an ocean frontage from Gaviota Pass to Point Purisima, and has a large grazing area, land for such purposes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Thirty-five miles north of Lompoc is the Santa Maria valley, 25 miles long by 12 wide, and containing 243,445 acres, of which 65,000 are arable.  It is chiefly famous for its wheat, and the land is worth from $30 to $50 an acre.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The Los Alamos valley lies mostly back from the coast, and contains 149,315 acres, of which 35,000 acres are arable and adapted to the growth of wheat, flax, and barley.  The price of land formerly ranged from $10 to $50 per acre, but has since then greatly appreciated, and is now worth from $40 to $100, according to its location.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The Santa Ynez valley, nearly parallel with that of Santa Barbara, and separated from it by the Santa Ynez range, contains 208,647 acres, of which not less than 50,000 are adapted to agricultural and horticultural purposes.  The balance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>As a rule, the price of land in any of the valleys is not high, and at this moment there is little difficulty in obtaining valuable properties for comparatively little money.  The ranches must constantly appreciate in value.  Let there be a railroad into Santa Barbara, and a market be assured, and the county will rank among the foremost in the State.  It has a climate particularly adapted to the needs of farmers, and its soil has often been proven most impartial.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The climate of Santa Barbara is one of the most perfect in the world.  This is not intended to imply that sunshine is eternal, or that there are never disagreeable days.  Because of its peculiar situation, --facing the sea and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The summer season is fully as delightful as the winter.  No matter how hot the day out of doors, in the sun, may be, it is always comfortable in the shade or in the house.  In a period of thirteen years the highest temperature of August was 98&deg; and the lowest 55&deg;.  For the same period the highest for January was 83&deg;, and the lowest 33&deg;.  The summer nights are invariably cool.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The rainfall averages seventeen inches.  A rain never continues longer than a week, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Strong north winds occur very seldom, but when they do come, are laden with dust, and are intensely disagreeable.  March is the month in which they most prevail, but even then they are but the exception rather than the rule, and do not last for more than a day or two.  Flowers bloom continuously, but are more numerous in winter than in summer.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Malarious diseases are unknown; hay fever is never heard of; and croup and acute bronchitis are rarely seen.  Pulmonary and miasmatic troubles are greatly ameliorated by the climate.  Patients, however, need not look for miraculous cures if they visit Santa Barbara during the last stage of their disease.  Life may be prolonged, but not saved.  But troubles that are still in hand can often be cured, provided care is taken, and a sober, out-of-door life is pursued.  The climate is generally acknowledged by competent judges to be superior to that of either Nice, Mentone, or St. Augustine.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The educational facilities of Santa Barbara are most excellent.  There are several public schools, which are supported by the city and presided over by competent teachers.  There is also a private school, at which children of both sexes are afforded every intellectual advantage, and a course of study given in Unity Chapel by an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>The city is supplied with pure water from Mission Can&tilde;on, and is lighted by gas.  Owing to the peculiar nature of the soil, the streets are rarely muddy, even during a heavy rain.  There are churches of every denomination.  The "Santa Barbara Club," occupying rooms over the First National Bank, is a social organization supplied with daily and monthly publications.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Such, in brief, is Santa Barbara.  Quiet and picturesque, it possesses many virtues and but few faults.  Whatever may be said of it, one can never analyze its real charm, it is indescribable.  Favored by nature it has not been spoiled by man; and it is literally the home of an eternal summer.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>DISTANCES.</HEAD>
033.sgm:<LB></DIV>
033.sgm:<P><HSEP>Miles.<LB>From Santa Barbara to San Francisco<HSEP>300<LB>"  "  "  "  Los Angeles<HSEP>100<LB>"  "  "  "  Newhall<HSEP>80<LB>"  "  "  "  Goleta<HSEP>6<LB>"  "  "  "  Hollister Ranch<HSEP>10<LB>"  "  "  "  Cooper's Ranch<HSEP>12<LB> "  "  "  "  Sturges Ranch<HSEP>15<LB>"  "  "  "  Gaviota Pass<HSEP>40<LB>"  "  "  "  Santa Ynez ( <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
033.sgm: San Marcos Pass)<HSEP>40<LB> "  "  "  "  Los Alamos and Lompoc<HSEP>60<LB>"  "  "  "  El Montecito<HSEP>4<LB>"  "  "  "  Carpenteria<HSEP>12<LB> "  "  "  "  Ventura<HSEP>30<LB>"  "  "  "  Ojai Valley ( <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
033.sgm: Casitas Pass)<HSEP>37<LB> "  "  "  "  Light-House<HSEP>3<LB>"  "  "  "  Hope Ranch (Lake Fenten)<HSEP>3<LB>"  "  "  "  Mission Can&tilde;on<HSEP>3 1/2<LB> "  "  "  "  San Ysidro Can&tilde;on<HSEP>9<LB>"  "  "  "  Cathedral Oaks<HSEP>8<LB>"  "  "  "  Bartlett's Can&tilde;on<HSEP>12<LB>"  "  "  "  Sycamore and Cold Spring Can&tilde;ons<HSEP>3 1/2<LB>"  "  "  "  Ramona's Home<HSEP>60</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>COMPARATIVE TEMPERATURES. Difference. Location.<HSEP>Winter.<HSEP>Spring.<HSEP>Summer.<HSEP>Autumn.<HSEP>Summer Winter. Santa Barbara, Cal.,<HSEP>54 29<HSEP>59.45<HSEP>67.71<HSEP>63.11<HSEP> 13.42 St. Augustine, Fla.,<HSEP>58.25<HSEP>68.69<HSEP>80.36<HSEP>71.90<HSEP> 22.11 Mentone, France,<HSEP>49.50<HSEP>60.00<HSEP>73.00<HSEP>56.60<HSEP>23.50 Nice, France,<HSEP>47.88<HSEP>56.23<HSEP>72.26<HSEP>61.63<HSEP>24.44 Average at Santa Barbara for July, 68.45. Yearly average, 61.43. Difference between July and January, 15 degrees.</P>
033.sgm:<P>NO. OF DAYS WHEN TEMPERATURE WAS BELOW 42&deg; OR ABOVE 82&deg;.<LB><HSEP> 1873. 1874. 1875. 1876. 1877. 1878. 1879.  1880. 1881. 1882. 1883. Average.<LB>Days below 42 degrees,<HSEP>2  <HSEP>6<HSEP>2<HSEP>10<HSEP>5<HSEP>12<HSEP>12<HSEP>24<HSEP>12<HSEP>41<HSEP>39<HSEP>15<LB>Days above 82 degrees,<HSEP>2<HSEP>13<HSEP>12<HSEP>7<HSEP>13<HSEP>10<HSEP>12<HSEP>2<HSEP>2<HSEP>3<HSEP>12<HSEP>8<LB>Average annual rainfall for fifteen years, 17.31 inches.</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>COMPARATIVE TEMPERATURE OF SEA WATER.<LB><HSEP>Santa Barbara, Cal. Newport, R.I.<LB> January<HSEP>60<HSEP> 32 February<HSEP>61<HSEP>32 March<HSEP>61<HSEP>34 April<HSEP>61<HSEP>43 May<HSEP>61<HSEP>52 June<HSEP>62<HSEP>62 July<HSEP>64<HSEP>66 August<HSEP>65<HSEP>70 September<HSEP>66<HSEP>65 October<HSEP>63<HSEP>58 November<HSEP>61<HSEP>44 December<HSEP>60<HSEP>36</P>
033.sgm:<P>Mean<HSEP>62<HSEP>46</P>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>TO THE PACIFIC COAST. PRACTICALLY speaking, Chicago is the initial starting-point of all transcontinental journeys; and "THE BURLINGTON ROUTE" affords the most direct communication between that city and Denver, Kansas City, Atchison, Council Bluffs, and Omaha.  The system embraces a greater part of the Middle West, and at its western termini makes close connections at Union Depots with the Pacific Coast roads.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The BURLINGTON is the only line having its own track between Denver and Chicago, Peoria and St. Louis.  Its two routes between Chicago and Denver are <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
033.sgm: Pacific Junction and <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<P>Two daily trains over the "BURLINGTON ROUTE" leave the Union Passenger Station, Canal Street, Chicago, for Kansas City and Atchison, and are equipped with Pullman Sleeping, Dining, and Reclining-Chair Cars, together with first-class passenger coaches.  DINING CARS are run on all trains between Chicago and the Missouri; and the entire BURLINGTON track is as smooth as perfect road-beds, steel rails, iron bridges, and all other known devices can make it.</P>
033.sgm:<P>The "BURLINGTON ROUTE" possesses great variety of scenery. Between Chicago and the Missouri are cultivated fields and populous cities; beyond are the boundless plains with their ranches, grazing herds, and new metropoli.  And at Denver the Rio Grande Road, the famous "Scenic Line," connecting with the BURLINGTON, conducts one to the romantic scenery of the Centennial State, and through its wild can&tilde;ons to Salt Lake City.</P>
033.sgm:<P>Through tickets to all Pacific Coast points, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
033.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
033.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
033.sgm:<illus entity="a033-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE RAYMOND, SOUTH PASADENA, CALIFORNIA</P>
033.sgm:<P>W. RAYMOND, <HI REND="italics">Of Raymond's Excursions, Boston, Mass</HI>
033.sgm:<P>C. H. MERRILL, <HI REND="italics">Of the Crawford House, White Mts., N.H</HI>
033.sgm:<P>The Finest Winter Resort in America.  Situated in Southern California, amid the Orange Groves and Vineyards of the Beautiful San Gabriel Valley. Eight Miles from Los Angeles, by the Los Angeles &amp; San Gabriel Valley R.R. Opens November 1, 1886.</P>
046.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-046</TITLE>
046.sgm:<TITLE>Addresses, reminiscences, etc. of General John Bidwell.  Compiled by C.C. Royce: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
046.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
046.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
046.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
046.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
046.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
046.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
046.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>10-5282</LCCN>
046.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
046.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
046.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>John Bidwell</P>
046.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Under the Palm--Gen. and Mrs. Bidwell</P>
046.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">JOHN BIDWELL</HI>
046.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Pioneer, Statesman,<LB>Philanthropist</HI>
046.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">A Biographical Sketch</HI>
046.sgm:<P>BY C. C. ROYCE</P>
046.sgm:<P>CHICO, CALIFORNIA 1906</P>
046.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<BODY><DIV><P>THE discovery and the appropriation of the American continent were characterized by a series of movements or migrations more or less distinctive in character.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Following the Columbian discovery came an era in which the world's imagination, stirred to its profoundest depths by the romantic adventures of the Spanish corsairs in the Caribbean seas, the bloody trail of Cortez through the halls of the Montezumas and the dazzling romances of the gold and silver mountains of Peru, stimulated men of daring everywhere into action. The minds of men were filled with and reveled in marvelous stories. It was an age of romanticism and hallucination which filled the first century of American discovery and exploration. Following this came an era of settlement and slowly expanding occupation of the territory bordering the Atlantic Coast. The Cavalier of Virginia, the Puritan of New England, the Dutchman of Manhattan and the Quaker of Pennsylvania, in quick succession established, maintained and expanded their respective settlements during more than a century without getting beyond the towering summits of the Appalachians.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Then came the American Revolution, and with the resultant birth of a new and expectant nation, its officers and soldiers of seven years campaigning found themselves without an occupation and full of the restless zeal of adventure and exploration. Like an army of industrious ants they climbed the ridges of the Alleghanies, poured down their western slopes, fought back the hordes of angered savages, and within sixty years had accomplished the conquest and assumed possession of the territory to the banks of the Missouri River.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Here the movement was temporarily halted by the deterrent influences of numberless savage tribes and the wind and drouth-swept desolation of what, in the imagination of historians and geographers, comprised the Great American Desert. So thoroughly was that vast territory given over in the public mind to the perpetual occupancy of wild beasts and wild men, that in 1825, shortly after the establishment of the frontier military post at Fort Leavenworth, in what is now the State of Kansas, the commanding officer, in his official report to the War Department, asserted that the extreme western limit at which even garden vegetables could be raised was forty miles west of that post.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But adventurous spirits with restless feet and eager curiosity, stimulated still further by the prospects and possibilities of profitable trade with the Spanish-Mexican population of the Southwest, pioneered a road across the desert to the ancient town of Santa Fe, which became known to commerce as "The Santa Fe Trail." Percolating through the experiences of this Santa Fe traffic, as well as through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>Thus, in the spring of 1841, sixty-five years ago, the first emigrant train started on its long and weary journey. With that band was John Bidwell, then a youth of twenty-one and destined to become one of the most distinguished and historic characters of the State.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The motives that prompted the journey, the courage that marked its execution and the philosophic persistence with which its perils, sufferings and uncertainties were endured, were characteristics that have made his name a leading one in the development of the great State of California. The incidents and experiences of this historic and most remarkable migration have been depicted with great simplicity and interest by him in the following narrative, published some fifteen years since in the <HI REND="italics">Century Magazine:</HI>
046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE FIRST EMIGRANT TRAIN TO CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>By JOHN BIDWELL (Pioneer of '41).</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1839,--living at the time in the western part of Ohio,--being then in my twentieth year, I conceived a desire to see the great prairies of the West, especially those most frequently spoken of, in Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri. Emigration from the East was tending westward, and settlers had already begun to invade those rich fields.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Starting on foot to Cincinnati, ninety miles distant, I fortunately got a chance to ride most of the way on a wagon loaded with farm produce. My outfit consisted of about $75, the clothes I wore, and a few others in a knapsack which I carried in the usual way strapped upon my shoulders, for in those days travelers did not have valises or trunks. Though traveling was considered dangerous, I had no weapon more formidable than a pocket knife. From Cincinnati I went down the Ohio River by steamboat to the Mississippi, up the Mississippi to St. Louis, and thence to Burlington, in what was then the Territory of Iowa. Those were bustling days on the western rivers, which were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The Commission as Quartermaster</P>
046.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>In 1839 Burlington had perhaps not over two hundred inhabitants, though it was the capital of Iowa Territory. After consultation with the governor, Robert Lucas, of Ohio, I concluded to go into the interior and select a tract of land on the Iowa River. In those days one was permitted to take up 160 acres, and where practicable it was usual to take part timber and part prairie. After working awhile in putting up a log house--until all the people in the neighborhood became ill with fever and ague--I concluded to move on and strike out to the south and southwest into Missouri. I traveled across country, sometimes by the sun, without road or trail. There were houses and settlements, but they were scattered; sometimes one would have to go twenty miles to find a place to stay at night. The principal game seen was the prairie hen (Tetraonidae cupido); the prairie wolf (Canis latrans) also abounded. Continuing southwest and passing through Huntsville I struck the Missouri River near Keytesville in Chariton County. Thence I continued up the north side of the river till the westernmost settlement in Missouri was reached; this was in Platte County. The Platte Purchase, as it was called, had been recently bought from the Indians, and was newly but thickly settled, on account of its proximity to navigation, its fine timber, good water, and unsurpassed fertility.</P>
046.sgm:<P>On the route I traveled I cannot recall seeing an emigrant wagon in Missouri. The western movement, which subsequently filled Missouri and other Western States and overflowed into the adjoining Territories, had then hardly begun, except as to Platte County. The contest in Congress over the Platte Purchase, which by increasing the area of Missouri gave more territory to slavery, called wide attention to that charming region. The anti-slavery sentiment even at that date ran quite high. This was, I believe, the first addition to slave territory after the Missouri Compromise. But slavery won. The rush that followed in the space of one or two years filled the most desirable part of the purchase to overflowing. The imagination could not conceive a finer country--lovely, rolling, fertile, wonderfully productive, beautifully arranged for settlement, part prairie and part timber. The land was unsurveyed. Every settler had aimed to locate a half mile from his neighbor, and there was as yet no conflict. Peace and contentment reigned. Nearly every place seemed to have a beautiful spring of clear cold water. The hills and prairies and the level places were alike covered with a black and fertile soil. I can not recall seeing an acre of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>On my arrival, my money being all spent, I was obliged to accept the first thing that offered, and began teaching school in the country about five miles from the town of Weston, which was located on the north side of the Missouri River and about four miles above Fort Leavenworth in Kansas Territory. Possibly some may suppose it did not take much education to teach a country school at that period in Missouri. The rapid settlement of that new region had brought together people of all classes and conditions, and had thrown into juxtaposition almost every phase of intelligence as well as of illiteracy. But there was no lack of self-reliance or native shrewdness in any class, and I must say that I learned to have a high esteem for the people, among whom I found warm and lifelong friends.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But even in Missouri there were drawbacks. Rattlesnakes and copperheads were abundant. One man, it was said, found a place to suit him, but on alighting from his horse heard so many snakes that he concluded to go farther. At his second attempt, finding more snakes instead of fewer, he left the country altogether. I taught school there in all about a year. My arrival was in June, 1839, and in the fall of that year the surveyors came on to lay out the country; the lines ran every way, sometimes through a man's house, sometimes through his barn, so that there was much confusion and trouble about boundaries, etc. By the favor of certain men, and by paying a small amount for a little piece of fence here and a small clearing there, I got a claim, and purposed to make it my home, and to have my father remove there from Ohio.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the following summer, 1840, the weather was very hot, so that during the vacation I could do but little work on my place, and needing some supplies,--books, clothes, etc.,--I concluded to take a trip to St. Louis, which I did by way of the Missouri River. The distance was six hundred miles by water; the down trip occupied two days, and was one of the most delightful experiences of my life. But returning, the river being low and full of snags, and the steamboat heavily laden,--the boats were generally light going down,--we were continually getting on sand bars, and were delayed nearly a month. This trip proved to be the turning-point in my life, for while I was  gone a man had jumped my land. Generally in such cases public sentiment was against the jumper, and it was decidedly so in my case. But that scoundrel held on. He was a bully--had killed a man in Callaway County--and everybody seemed afraid of him. Influential friends of mine tried to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>John Bidwell's Cattle Brand--1848</P>
046.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>In November or December of 1840, while still teaching school in Platte County, I came across a Frenchman named Roubideaux, who said he had been to California. He had been a trader in New Mexico, and had followed the road traveled by traders from the frontier of Missouri to Santa Fe. He had probably gone through what is now New Mexico and Arizona into California by the Gila River trail used by the Mexicans. His description of California was in the superlative degree favorable, so much so that I resolved if possible to see that wonderful land, and with others helped to get up a meeting at Weston and invited him to make a statement before it in regard to the country. At that time when a man moved West, as soon as he was fairly settled he wanted to move again, and naturally every question imaginable was asked in regard to this wonderful country. Roubideaux described it as one of perennial spring and boundless fertility, and laid stress on the countless thousands of wild horses and cattle. He told about oranges, and hence must have been at Los Angeles, or the mission of San Gabriel, a few miles from it. Every conceivable question that we could ask him was answered favorably. Generally the first question which a Missourian asked about a country was whether there was any fever and ague. I remember his answer distinctly. He said there was but one man in California that had ever had a chill there, and it was a matter of so much wonderment to the people of Monterey that they went eighteen miles into the country to see him shake. Nothing could have been more satisfactory on the score of health. He said that the Spanish authorities were most friendly, and that the people were the most hospitable on the globe; that you could travel all over California and it would cost you nothing for horses or food. Even the Indians were friendly. His description of the country made it seem like a Paradise.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The result was that we appointed a corresponding secretary, and a committed to report a plan of organization. A pledge was drawn up in which every signer agreed to purchase a suitable outfit, and to rendezvous at Sapling Grove in what is now the State of Kansas, on the 9th of the following May, armed and equipped to cross the Rocky Mountains to California. We called ourselves the Western Emigration Society, and as soon as the pledge was drawn up every one who was agreed to come signed his name to it, and it took like wildfire. In a short time, I think within a month, we had about five hundred names; we also had correspondence on the subject with people all over Missouri, and even as far east as Illinois and Kentucky, and as far south as Arkansas.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>Our ignorance of the route was complete. We knew that California lay west, and that was the extent of out knowledge. Some of the maps consulted, supposed of course to be correct, showed a lake in the vicinity of where Salt Lake now is; it was represented as a long lake, three or four hundred miles in extent, narrow and with two outlets, both running into the Pacific Ocean, either apparently larger than the Mississippi River. An intelligent man with whom I boarded--Elam Brown, who till recently lived in California, dying when over ninety years of age--possessed a map that showed these rivers to be large, and he advised me to take tools along to make canoes, so that if we found the country so rough that we could not get along with our wagons we could descend one of those rivers to the Pacific. Even Fremont knew nothing about Salt Lake until 1843, when for the first time he explored it and mapped it correctly, his report being first printed, I think, in 1845.</P>
046.sgm:<P>This being the first movement to cross the Rocky Mountains to California, it is not surprising that it suffered reverses before we were fairly started. One of these was the publication of a letter in a New York newspaper giving a depressing view of the country for which we were all so confidently longing. It seems that in 1837 or 1838 a man by the name of Farnham, a lawyer, went from New York City into the Rocky Mountains for his health. He was an invalid, hopelessly gone with consumption it was thought, and as a last resort he went into the mountains, traveled with the trappers, lived in the open air as the trappers lived, eating only meat as they did, and in two or three years he entirely regained his health; but instead of returning east by way of St. Louis, as he had gone, he went down the Columbia River and took a vessel to Monterey and thence to San Blas, making his way through Mexico to New York. Upon his return--in February or March, 1841--he published the letter mentioned. His bad opinion of California was based wholly on his unfortunate experience in Monterey, which I will recount.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In 1840 there lived in California an old Rocky Mountaineer by the name of Isaac Graham. He was injudicious in his talk, and by boasting that the United States or Texas would some day take California, he excited the hostility and jealousy of the people. In those day's Americans were held in disfavor by the native Californians on account of the war made by Americans in Texas to wrest Texas from Mexico. The number of Americans in California at this time was very small. When I went to California in 1841 all the foreigners--and all were foreigners except Indians and Mexicans--did not, I think, exceed one hundred; nor was the character of all of them the most prepossessing. Some had been trappers in the Rocky Mountains who had not seen civilization for a quarter of a century; others were men who had found their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>During the winter, to keep the project alive, I had made two or three trips into Jackson County, Missouri, crossing the Missouri River, always dangerous in winter when ice was running, by the ferry at Westport Landing, now Kansas City. Sometimes I had to go ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>John Bidwell in 1850</P>
046.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>In five days after my arrival we were ready to start, but no one knew where to go, not even the captain. Finally a man came up, one of the last to arrive, and announced that a company of Catholic missionaries were on their way from St. Louis to the Flathead nation of Indians with an old Rocky Mountaineer for a guide, and that if we would wait another day they would be up with us. At first we were independent, and thought we could not afford to wait for a slow missionary party. But when we found that no one knew which way to go, we sobered down and waited for them to come up; and it was well we did, for otherwise probably not one of us would ever have reached California, because of our inexperience. Afterwards when we came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>In general our route lay from near Westport, where Kansas City now is, northwesterly over the prairie, crossing several streams, till we struck the Platte River. Then we followed along the south side of the Platte to and a day's journey or so along the South Fork. Here the features of the country became more bold and interesting. Then crossing the South Fork of the Platte, and following up the north side for a day, or so, we went over to the North Fork and camped at Ash Hollow; thence up the north side of that fork, passing those noted landmarks known as the Court House Rocks, Chimney Rock, Scott's Bluffs, etc., till we came to Fort Laramie, a trading post of the American Fur Company, near which was Lupton's Fort. belonging, as I understand, to some rival company. Thence after several days we came to another noted landmark called Independence Rock, on a branch of the North Platte called the Sweetwater, which we followed up to the head, soon after striking the Little Sandy, and then the Big Sandy, which empties into Green River. Next we crossed Green River to Black Fork, which we followed up till we came to Ham's Fork, at the head of which we crossed the divide between Green and Bear rivers. Then we followed Bear River down to Soda Springs. The waters of Bear Lake discharged through that river, which we continued to follow down on the west side till we came to Salt Lake. Then we went around the north side of the lake and struck out to the west and southwest.</P>
046.sgm:<P>For a time, until we reached the Platte River, one day was much like another. We set forth every morning and camped every night, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The first incident was a scare that we had from a party of Cheyenne Indians just before we reached the Platte River, about two weeks after we set out. One of our men, who chanced to be out hunting, some distance from the company and behind us, suddenly appeared without mule, gun or pistol, and lacking most of his clothes, and in great excitement reported that he had been surrounded by thousands of Indians. The company, too, became excited, and Captain Fitzpatrick tried, but with little effect, to control and pacify them. Every man started his team into a run, till the oxen, like the mules and horses, were in a full gallop. Captain Fitzpatrick went ahead and directed them to follow, and as fast as they came to the bank of the river he put the wagons in the form of a hollow square, and had all the animals securely picketed within. After a while the Indians came in sight. There were only forty of them, but they were well mounted on horses, and were evidently a war party, for they had no women except one, a medicine woman. They came up and camped within a hundred yards of us on the river below. Fitzpatrick told us that they would not have come in that way if they were hostile. Our hunter in his excitement said that there were thousands of them, and that they had robbed him of his gun, mule and pistol. When the Indians had put up their lodges, Fitzpatrick and John Gray, the old hunter mentioned, went out to them and by signs were made to understand that the Indians did not intend to hurt the man or to take his mule or gun, but that he was so excited when he saw them that they had to disarm him to keep him from shooting them; they did not know what had become of his pistol or of his clothes, which he said they had torn off. They surrendered the mule and the gun, thus showing that they were friendly. They proved to be Cheyenne Indians. Ever afterwards that man went by the name of Cheyenne Dawson.</P>
046.sgm:<P>As soon as we struck the buffalo country we found a new source of interest. Before reaching the Platte we had seen an abundance of antelope and elk, prairie wolves and villages of prairie dogs, but only an occasional buffalo. We now began to kill buffaloes for food, and at the suggestion of John Gray, and following the practice of Rocky Mountain white hunters, our people began to kill them just to get the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>John Bidwell Distributing Goods to the Indians in 1852 at Rancho Chico</P>
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046.sgm:<P>On the Platte River, on the afternoon of one of the hottest days we experienced on the plains, we had a taste of a cyclone; first came a terrific shower, followed by a fall of hail to the depth of four inches, some of the stones being as large as turkeys' eggs; and the next day a waterspout--an angry, huge, whirling cloud column, which seemed to draw its water from the Platte River--passed within a quarter of a mile behind us. We stopped and braced ourselves against our wagons to keep them from being overturned. Had it struck us it doubtless would have demolished us.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Above the junction of the forks of the Platte we continued to pass notable natural formations--first O'Fallon's Bluffs, then Court House Rocks, a group of fantastic shapes to which some of our party started to go. After they had gone what seemed fifteen or twenty miles the huge pile looked just as far off as when they started, and so they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>As we ascended the Platte buffaloes became scarcer, and on the Sweetwater none were to be seen. Now appeared in the distance to the north of west, gleaming under its mantle of perpetual snow, that lofty range known as the Wind River Mountains.  It was the first time I had seen snow in summer; some of the peaks were very precipitous, and the view was altogether most impressive. Guided by Fitzpatrick, we crossed the Rockies at or near the South Pass, where the mountains were apparently low. Some years before a man named William Subletts, an Indian fur trader, went to the Rocky Mountains with goods in wagons, and those were the only wagons that had ever been there before us; sometimes we came across the tracks, but generally they were obliterated, and thus were of no service. Approaching Green River in the Rocky Mountains, it was found that some of the wagons, including Captain Bartleson's, had alcohol on board, and that the owners wanted to find trappers in the Rocky Mountains to whom they might sell it. This was a surprise to many, of us, as there had been no drinking on the way. John Gray was sent ahead to see if he could find a trapping party, and he was instructed, if successful, to have them come to a certain place on Green River. He struck a trail, and overtook a party on their way to the buffalo region to lay in provisions, i. e., buffalo meat, and they returned, and came and camped on Green River very soon after our arrival, buying the greater part, if not all, of the alcohol, it first having been diluted so as to make what they called whisky--three or four gallons of water to a gallon of alcohol. Years afterwards we heard of the fate of that party: they were attacked by Indians the very first night after they left us and several of them killed, including the captain of the trapping party, whose name was Frapp. The whisky was probably the cause.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Several years ago when I was going down Weber Canyon, approaching Salt Lake, swiftly borne along on an observation car amid cliffs and over rushing streams, something said that night at the camp-fire on Green River was forcibly recalled to mind. We had in our party an illiterate fellow named Bill Overton, who in the evening at one of the camp-fires loudly declared that nothing in his life had ever surprised him. Of course that raised a dispute. "Never surprised in your life?" "No, I never was surprised." And, moreover, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>As I have said, at Soda Springs--at the northernmost bend of Bear River--our party separated. It was a bright and lovely place. The abundance of soda water, including the intermittent gushing so-called Steamboat Spring; the beautiful fir and cedar covered hills; the huge piles of red or brown sinter, the result of fountains once active but then dry---all these, together with the river, lent a charm to its wild beauty and made the spot a notable one. Here the missionary party were to turn north and go into the Flathead nation. Fort Hall, about forty miles distant on Snake River, lay on their route. There was no road; but something like a trail, doubtless used by the trappers, led in that direction. From Fort Hall there was also a trail down in Snake River, by which trapping parties reached the Columbia River and Fort Vancouver, the headquarters of the Hudson Bay Company.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our party, originally sixty-nine, including women and children, had become lessened to sixty-four in number. One had accidentally shot and killed himself at the forks of the Platte. Another of our party, named Simpson, had left us at Fort Laramie. Three had turned back from Green River, intending to make their way to Fort Bridger and await an opportunity to return home. Their names were Peyton, Rodgers, and Amos E. Frye. Thirty-two of our party, becoming discouraged, decided not to venture without path or guide into the unknown and trackless region toward California, but concluded to go with the missionary party to Fort Hall and thence find their way down Snake and Columbia rivers into Oregon. The rest of us--also thirty-two in number, including Benjamin Kelsey, his wife and little daughter--remained firm, refusing to be diverted from our original purpose of going direct to California. After getting all the information we could from Captain Fitzpatrick, we regretfully bade good-by to our fellow emigrants and to Father De Smet and his party.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We were now thrown entirely upon our own resources. All the country beyond was to us a veritable terra incognita, and we only knew that California lay to the west. Captain Fitzpatrick was not much better informed, but he had heard that parties had penetrated the country to the southwest and west of Salt Lake to trap for beaver; and by his advice four of our men went with the parties to Fort Hall to consult Captain Grant, who was in charge there, and to gain information. Meanwhile our depleted party slowly made its way down the west side of Bear River.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our separation at Soda Springs recalls an incident. The days were usually very hot, the nights almost freezing. The first day our little company went only about ten miles and camped on Bear River. In company with a man named James John--always called "Jimmy John"--I wandered a mile or two down the river fishing. Seeing snow on a high mountain to the west we longed to reach it, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Rancho Chico Building in 1854</P>
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046.sgm:<P>In about ten days our four men returned from Fort Hall, during which time we had advanced something over one hundred miles toward Salt Lake. They brought the information that we must strike out west of Salt Lake,--as it was even then called by the trappers,--being careful not to go too far south, lest we should get into a waterless country without grass. They also said we must be careful not to go too far north, lest we should get into a broken country and steep canyons, and wander about, as trapping parties had been known to do, and become bewildered and perish.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Leaving this camp and bearing northwest we crossed our tracks on the salt plain, having thus described a triangle of several miles in dimensions. One of the most serious of our troubles was to find water where we could camp at night. So soon came another hot day, and hard travel all day and all night without water! From a westerly course we turned directly north, and, guided by antelope trails, came in a few miles to an abundance of grass and good water. The condition of our animals compelled us to rest here nearly a week.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>On Green River we had seen the style of pack-saddles used by the trapping party, and had learned a little about how to make them. Packing is an art, and something that only an experienced mountaineer can do well so as to save his animal and keep his pack from falling off. We were unaccustomed to it, and the difficulties we had at first were simply indescribable. It is much more difficult to fasten a pack on an ox than on a mule or a horse. The trouble began the very first day. But we started--most of us on foot, for nearly all the animals, including several of the oxen, had to carry packs. It was but a few minutes before the packs began to turn; horses became scared, mules kicked, oxen jumped and bellowed, and articles were scattered in all directions. We took more pains, fixed things, ,made a new start, and did better, though packs continued occasionally to fall off and delay us.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Those that had better pack-saddles and had tied their loads securely were ahead, while the others were obliged to lag behind, because they had to repack, and sometimes things would be strewn all along the route. The first night I happened to be among those that kept pretty well back, because the horses out-traveled the oxen. The foremost came to a place and stopped where there was no water or grass, and built a fire so that we could see it and come up to them. We got there about midnight, but some of our oxen that had packs on had not come up and among them were my two. So I had to return the next morning and find them. Cheyenne Dawson along volunteering to go with me. One man had brought along about a quart of water, which was carefully doled out before we started, each receiving a little canister-cover full--less than half a gill; but as Dawson and I had to go for the oxen, we were given a double portion. This was all the water I had until the next day. It was a burning hot day. We could not find the trail of the oxen for a long time, and Dawson refused to go any farther, saying that there were plenty of cattle in California; but I had to do it, for the oxen were carrying our provisions and other things. Afterwards I struck the trail, and found that the oxen instead of going west had gone north, and I followed them until nearly, sundown. They had gone into grassy country, which showed that they were nearing water. Seeing Indian tracks on their trail following them. I felt there was imminent danger, and at once examined my gun and pistols to see that they were primed and ready. But I soon found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Map of U.S. Survey of Rancho Chico--1859</P>
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046.sgm:<P>One morning, just as we were packing up, a party of about ninety Indians, on horseback, a regular war party, were descried coming up. Some of us begged the captain to send men out to prevent them from coming to us while we were in the confusion of packing. But he said, "Boys, you must not show any sign of hostility; if you go out there with guns the Indians will think us hostile, and may get mad and hurt us." However, five or six of us took our guns and went out, and by signs made them halt. They did not prove to be hostile, but they had carbines, and if we had been careless and had let them come near they might, and probably would, have killed us. At last we got packed up and started, and the Indians traveled along three or four hundred yards one side or the other of us or behind us all day. They appeared anxious to trade, and offered a buckskin, well dressed, worth two or three dollars, for three or four charges of powder and three or four balls. This showed that they were in want of ammunition. The carbines indicated that they had had communication with some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Our course was first westward and then southward, following this river for many days, till we came to its Sink, near which we saw a solitary horse, an indication that trappers had sometime been in that vicinity. We tried to catch him but failed; he had been there long enough to become very wild. We saw many Indians on the Humboldt, especially toward the Sink. There were many tule marshes. The tule is a rush, large, but here not very tall. It was generally completely covered with honeydew, and this in turn was wholly covered with a pediculous-looking insect which fed upon it. The Indians gathered quantities of the honey and pressed it into balls about the size of one's fist, having the appearance of wet bran. At first we greatly relished this Indian food, but when we saw what it was made of-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>From the time we left our wagons many had to walk, and more and more as we advanced. Going down the Humboldt at least half were on foot. Provisions had given out: except a little coarse green grass among the willows along the river the country was dry, bare and desolate; we saw no game except antelope, and they were scarce and hard to kill; and walking was very fatiguing. Tobacco lovers would surrender their animals for anyone to ride who would furnish them with an ounce or two to chew during the day. One day one of these devotees lost his tobacco and went back for it, but failed to find it. An Indian in a friendly manner overtook us bringing the piece of tobacco which he had found on our trail or at our latest camp and surrendered it. The owner instead of being thankful, accused the Indian of having stolen it--an impossibility, as we had seen no Indians or Indian signs for some days. Perhaps the Indian did not know what it was, else he might have kept it for smoking. But I think otherwise, for, patting his breast, he said, "Shoshone, Shoshone," which was the Indian way of showing he was friendly. The Shoshones were known as always friendly to the whites, and it is not difficult to see how other and distant tribes might claim to be Shoshones as a passport to favor.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The Commission of Brigadier General John  Bidwell</P>
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046.sgm:<P>In a short time they were out of sight. We followed their trail for two or three days, but after they had crossed over to the south side of the Humboldt and turned south we came into a sandy waste where the wind had entirely obliterated their tracks. We were then thrown entirely upon our own resources. It was our desire to make as great speed as possible westward, deviating only when obstacles interposed, and in such case bearing south instead of north, so as to be found in a lower latitude in the event that winter should overtake us in the mountains. But, diverted by following our fugitive captain and party across the Humboldt, we thereby missed the luxuriant Truckee meadows lying but a short distance to the west, a resting place well and favorably known to the later emigrants. So, perforce, we followed down to the sink of the Humboldt and were obliged to drink its water, which in the fall of the year becomes stagnant and of the color of lye, and not fit to drink or use unless boiled. Here we camped. Leaving the Sink of the Humboldt, we crossed a considerable stream which must have been Carson River, and came to another stream which must have been Walker River, and followed it up to where it came out of the mountains, which proved to be the Sierra Nevadas. We did not know the name of the mountains. Neither had these rivers then been named; nor had they been seen by Kit Carson or Joe Walker, for whom they were named, nor were they seen until 1845 by Fremont, who named them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We were now camped on Walker River, at the very eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, and had only two oxen left. We sent men ahead to see if it would be possible to scale the mountains, while we killed the better of the two oxen and dried the meat in preparation for the ascent. The men returned, toward evening and reported that they thought it would be possible to ascend the mountains, though very difficult. We had eaten our supper, and were ready for the climb in the morning. Looking back on the plains we saw something coming, which we decided to be Indians. They traveled very slowly, and it was difficult to understand their movements. To make a long story short, it was the eight men that had left us nine days before. They had gone farther south than we and had come to a lake, probably Carson Lake, and there had found Indians, who supplied them plentifully with fish and pine nuts. Fish caught in such water are not fit to eat at any time, much less in the fall of the year. The men had eaten heartily of fish and pine nuts, and had got something akin to cholera morbus. We were glad to see them although they had deserted us. We ran out to meet them and shook hands, and put our frying pans on and gave them the best supper we could. Captain Bartleson, who when we started from Missouri was a portly man, was reduced to half his former girth. He said: "Boys, if ever I get back to Missouri I will never leave that country. I would gladly eat out of the troughs with my dogs." He seemed to be heartily sick of his late experience, but that did not prevent him from leaving us twice after that. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>In some way, nobody knows how, Jimmy got through that canyon and into the Sacramento Valley. He had a horse with him--an Indian horse that was bought in the Rocky Mountains, and which could come as near climbing a tree as any horse I ever knew. Jimmy was a character. Of all men I have ever known I think he was the most fearless: he had the bravery of a bulldog. He was not seen for two months until he was found at Sutter's, afterwards known as Sutter's Fort, now Sacramento City.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We went on, traveling west as near as we could. When we killed our last ox we shot and ate crows or anything we could kill, and one man shot a wildcat. We could eat anything. One day in the morning I went ahead, on foot of course, to see if I could kill something, it being understood that the company would keep on as near west as possible and find a practicable road. I followed an Indian trail down into the canyon, meeting many Indians on the way up. They did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>A day or two later we came to a place where there was a great quantity of horse bones, and we did not know what it meant; we thought that an army must have perished there. They were of course horses that the Indians had driven in there and slaughtered. A few nights later, fearing depredations, we concluded to stand guard--all but one man, who would not. So we let his two horses roam where they pleased. In the morning they could not be found. A few miles away we came to a village; the Indians had fled, but we found the horses killed and some of the meat roasting on a fire.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We were now on the edge of the San Joaquin Valley, but we did not even know that we were in California. We could see a range of mountains lying to the west,--the Coast Range,--but we could see no valley. The evening of the day we started down into the valley we were very tired, and when night came our party was strung along for three or four miles, and every man slept right where darkness overtook him. He would take off his saddle for a pillow and turn his horse or mule loose, if he had one. His animal would be too poor to walk away, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Sir Joseph Hooker Oak--Rancho Chico</P>
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046.sgm:<P>The next day, judging by the timber we saw, we concluded there was a river to the west. So two men went ahead to see if they could find a trail or a crossing. The timber proved to be along what is now known as the San Joaquin River. We sent two men on ahead to spy out the country. At night one of them returned, saying they had come across an Indian on horseback without a saddle who wore a cloth jacket but no other clothing. From what they could understand the Indian knew Dr. Marsh and had offered to guide them to his place. He plainly said "Marsh," and of course we supposed it was the Dr. Marsh before referred to who had written the letter to a friend in Jackson county, Missouri, and so it proved. One man went with the Indian to Marsh's ranch and the other came back to tell us what he had done, with the suggestion that we should go on and cross the river (San Joaquin) at the place to which the trail was leading. In that way we found ourselves two days later at Dr. Marsh's ranch, and there we learned that we were really in California and our journey at an end. After six months we had now arrived at the first settlement in California, November 4, 1841.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The account of our reception and of my own experiences in California in the pastoral period before the gold discovery, I must reserve for another paper.</P>
046.sgm:<P>JOHN BIDWELL. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>The arrival of this little band of emigrants marked an epoch in the history of the Pacific Coast. The trail thus blazed stimulated a rapid and continuously flowing stream of emigration, destined to change the ownership of a vast territory and the nationality of a people. This was the dawn of fate that gate to us the shores of a second great ocean; that protected us from foreign encroachment and that has made us the world powers of today. When these "Pilgrims of the West" arrived they found a century-old civilization already in a decadent condition. Prior to our great struggle for independence, the Mission Fathers of Old Spain had pushed their way into the beautiful valleys of these golden shores and had established a social structure consistent with the religious feudalism of their nativity. With a fortitude and skill bordering on the marvelous, they had gathered together the wild natives, brought them under the combined influences of fear and reverence, and by the labor of their hands erected a series of buildings whose ruins to-day are the wonder and admiration of the present generation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Time had wrought its changes, and when the subject of this sketch and his party arrived upon the scene, Spanish domination had yielded to the success of Mexican independence. The Missions had been secularized and their power largely broken up. There had grown up the system of great private ranches, gifts of the Mexican Government to prominent families of Mexican nativity. These ranches were vast in extent, utilized almost exclusively as stock ranges, and were the creators of a life of ease, indolence and gayety not to be found elsewhere outside of the tropics. The Indian peons did most of the work; hides and tallow were the chief articles of commerce and were used in the purchase of such foreign luxuries as were needed; the skies were bright; the sun's face was rarely masked; the icy hand of winter could not reach beyond the mountain peaks; no artificial shelter was demanded for the protection of the large and increasing herds, and amidst a kind and bounteous nature the "soft-eyed, low-voiced Castilian" dreamed away his life without a thought for the morrow or an ambition for a change. Into the tranquillity of such a life had come the first emigrant train with its American restlessness, activity and push, sowing the seeds which produced a later harvest of political unrest, conflict and conquest.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The population of California at this period, aside from the Indians, was composed mostly of descendants of Spanish and Mexican families who had followed the enterprise of the Mission Fathers and who had been granted lands in abundance. They were a simple people; light-hearted and sociable; fond of amusements; living for the present, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Having arrived in the "Promised Land," the first thing that concerned young Bidwell was to find employment. Hearing that a man named Sutter had founded a settlement about one hundred miles to the north, he proceeded thither, arriving there the last of November.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter was of Swiss parentage but a native of Baden, who, after a more or less romantic career in Europe, came to America, first settling in Indiana, afterwards making his way to St. Louis, where he engaged in the Santa Fe trade, but being unsuccessful, returned from Santa Fe and joined a party of Rocky Mountain trappers and found his way down the Columbia River to Fort Vancouver. There he formed plans for reaching the coast of California for the purpose of establishing a colony.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In pursuance of these plans, he took passage in a vessel for Honolulu, whence there being no direct line of vessels for California, he sailed to Sitka in the English bark Clementine, thence in the same vessel reaching San Francisco harbor on the 1st of July, 1839. He secured a grant of land from the Mexican Government and two years prior to the arrival of Bidwell and his companions, had established a settlement on the present site of the City of Sacramento.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Early in 1841 he had purchased of the Russian-American Fur Co., at Bodega and Fort Ross, all the property they were unable to remove when they retired from the country and it was due to this fact that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Oak Grove on Rancho Chico</P>
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046.sgm:<P>From January, 1842 to March, 1843, Bidwell was employed in this mission, which consisted in demolishing the houses at Fort Ross and shipping the lumber up the Sacramento River; also sending everything in the shape of personal property, including plows, yokes, carts, house-furniture, cannon, muskets and live stock. Having completed this work, Bidwell started to return to Sutter's Fort on horseback, but at the present site of Vacaville, lost his horses. Borrowing fresh animals from Vaca, he continued to a point opposite Sutter's where he picketed them and crossed in a canoe to the Fort. On his recrossing the river he found these animals had been stolen. Hastily taking a relay of new animals from Sutter's, he started to search the valley for them. His search was unsuccessful, but he learned that a party bound for Oregon had recently passed up the valley and he hastened to overtake them, though they had a week's start.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He was accompanied by the noted pioneer, Peter Lassen, who was desirous of finding a place to locate a ranch. In this trip he went as far as the present site of Red Bluff, where he recovered the animals and made his first exploration of the Sacramento Valley, during which he named all the streams coming into the Sacramento from the east between Butte Creek and Red Bluff. He also made a map of the valley from his observations on horseback, which served as the standard map of that country until the actual surveys were made in later years. Thus, two years before Fremont's first explorations, did Bidwell traverse and explore the primeval wilderness of Northern California at a time when there was not a white settler north of Sacramento.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Immediately on his return from this trip, Bidwell assumed charge of Sutter's Hock Farm, which was located west of Feather River and] south of the Butte Mountains, in the present limits of Sutter County, where he remained for a year. The primitive character of farming operations in California in those day, especially the picturesque method of harvesting. is worthy of description. The work was done almost entirely by Indians, of whom Sutter had several hundred in his employ at that season of the year. Some were armed with sickles, some with butcher-knives, some with pieces of hoop-iron roughly fashioned into sickle-shape, while many attacked the dry and brittle stalks of grain with their naked hands.</P>
046.sgm:<P>After the completion of this slow and painful process of cutting the grain, it was piled in a huge mound in the center of a large, round corral. Thereupon three or four hundred wild horses were turned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The spring and summer of 1844 were spent by Bidwell in various exploring trips, searching for a saw-mill site for Sutter and finding suitable locations for land grants for various parties.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The policy of granting lands in large bodies to Mexican citizens had prevailed in California for a number of years. Sutter, in 1841, in order to secure the grant of New Helvetia, had become a naturalized Mexican citizen, and in 1844 the very liberal land policy of Governor Micheltorena induced many of the newly arrived Americans to pursue the same course. Bidwell accompanied Sutter on a trip to Monterey in October, 1844, in regard to land matters, and while there was granted letters of Mexican citizenship and the ranch known as Ulpinos, on the lower Sacramento, within the limits of the present Solano County. On this grant in 1846 he attempted to found a town, but after a disastrous time, the would-be settlers abandoned it and the place gained the name of "Holo-che-muk," or "Nothing to Eat." This was on the site of the present town of Rio Vista.</P>
046.sgm:<P>These and other grants to quondam American citizens excited the prejudice and distrust of many of the native Californians and it was upon this trip to Monterey that Bidwell and Sutter learned of a contemplated insurrection by two of the native chiefs, Castro and Alvarado, of which they informed the Governor. The insurrection soon developed into what became known as the Micheltorena War. Sutter and Bidwell, with a party of Americans and Indians, joined "forces with the Governor and pursued the insurrectionary forces to Cahuenga, twelve miles north of Los Angeles, where a battle was fought. Governor Micheltorena was defeated and made prisoner, together with Sutter and Bidwell. The two latter were soon released and returned to Sutter's Fort on horseback through the San Joaquin Valley.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In March, 1845, Bidwell received a grant of two square leagues of land known as the Colus grant, on the present site of Colusa, which he sold in 1849 to Colonel Semple. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>Speaking of these grants and their relation to the Micheltorena War, as heretofore mentioned, it may be interesting to state that in early times under Mexican rule, a citizen would petition the Governor for a grant of land; the Governor would refer it to the Secretary of State, who would attach his recommendation and send it to the nearest Alcalde for information as to whether the land was vacant. When, in 1844, the revolution spoken of broke out against Governor Micheltorena, General Sutter and the Americans at or near Sutter's Fort were favorable to the Governor and were willing to assist him against the revolutionists, and in order to assure those who had applied for grants of land that he would carry out his verbal promise as to perfecting their title, the Governor issued a document known as "the General land title," in the name of the Mexican Nation, granting and confirming to the said applicants the lands petitioned for, provided they received the favorable report of General Sutter. In passing upon the validity of these grants in later years, the United States Government refused to recognize this "general title" as of any value.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In December, 1845, General Fremont arrived in California on his second exploring expedition, reaching Sutter's Fort, where, in the absence of Sutter, Bidwell was in command. Proceeding southward through the Santa Clara, Pajaro and Salinas Valleys, he was warned by General Castro to leave the country. After some hesitation, and greatly irritated, Fremont retreated northward and passed Sutter's Fort on his way to Oregon. He was overtaken a few weeks later at Klamath Lake by Lieutenant Gillespie with a message from Washington, the purport of which seems to have been that in case of war with Mexico, he (Fremont) was to take possession of California, to prevent by force of arms, if necessary, any occupation by a European power, but meanwhile to conciliate, by every possible means, the good will of the natives, with a view that the occupation, in case of war, might be without opposition. Returning immediately to Sutter's Fort, Fremont proceeded to violate the spirit of his instructions by seizing a band of horses belonging to the Mexican Government and intended for the use of General Castro. In justification of this action, he caused rumors to be circulated among the immigrant settlers that Castro was about to drive them all from the country. The fears and distrust of the settlers having thus been invoked, a party was organized, known to history as the Bear Flag party, who proceeded to violent measures by capturing Sonoma and bringing General Vallejo and other Mexican officials at that point to Sutter's Fort as prisoners. All this was nearly a month before Fremont or any one else on the Coast had knowledge that a state of war existed between Mexico and the United States.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The Bidwell "Mansion"</P>
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046.sgm:<P>Sutter and Bidwell both regarded Fremont's action as unjustifiable, but history was being made rapidly in those days, and the news of a declaration of war with Mexico following so soon, all differences of opinion between Americans disappeared and a united front was presented to the common foe.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Immediately upon receipt of the news of the Bear Flag episode at Sutter's Fort, Bidwell led a reconnoisance in the direction of Castro's supposed movements and a few days later proceeded to Sonoma, where, as one of a committee to draft a plan of organization, he prepared a paper for signature to the effect that: "The undersigned hereby agree to organize and to remain in service as long as necessary for the purpose of gaining and maintaining the independence of California." This was on the 4th of July, 1846, and on the 11th of the same month he was present at the raising of the American flag over Sutter's Fort, as a result of the news that Commodore Sloat had, in the name of the United States, officially performed the same act at Monterey.</P>
046.sgm:<P>From this time until the close of the struggle with Mexico, Bidwell was in active service in various capacities, holding successively the rank of Lieutenant, Captain and Quartermaster with the rank of Major. He was also appointed by Fremont, Alcalde at the Mission of San Luis Rey, and commanded that post at the time of the Flores revolt in the fall of 1846, during which he had some thrilling and hazardous experiences.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The year following the close of the war was full of activities along various lines for young Bidwell. He took the first census of that portion of the Sacramento Valley north of the Marysville Buttes and reported the result to Captain Sutter under date of December 21, 1847, showing the actual white population to be 82 and the estimated Indian population 19,500. He was again for a time in the service of Sutter and drew up a contract between Sutter and Marshall for the erection of the saw-mill where subsequently the latter made his alluring and momentous discovery of gold. He was engaged in surveying and locating for the grantees, various grants of land made to them through the generous munificence of Governor Micheltorena during his brief and turbulent administration. He established a home for himself on the banks of Little Butte Creek, within the limits of the Farwell grant, of which he was part owner, built a log cabin and planted vines and fruit trees.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In February, 1848, while at Sutter's Fort on his way to San Rafael for more trees and vines, he learned of the discovery of gold and carried the first authentic news of the circumstance to San Francisco.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In March, 1848, he made a trip to Coloma to satisfy himself of the extent and importance of the gold discovery, and made the first weights <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The years immediately following the gold discovery were pregnant with vitality and development, both financial and political, and in most of these events John Bidwell was a potent and prominent factor. He was a member of the Constitutional Convention (though unable to attend its sessions), and a member representing the Sacramento district,--which then comprised all of the State north of Sacramento,--in the first State Senate. During this session of the first Legislature he was a member of the Committee on Counties and County Boundaries, and was assigned the duty of recommending to the Committee the names for the counties about to be organized and the names of those counties not having a Spanish significance or origin were in large measure selected and recommended by him. He was one of the Commissioners appointed by Governor Burnett in 1850 to bear to the National Capital the block of gold-bearing quartz, destined as the tribute of California to "mark her interest in the fame and glory of the Father of his Country and her desire to perpetuate his great name and virtues as far as earthly monuments can accomplish that object."</P>
046.sgm:<P>It was during this trip to Washington City that the question of the admission of California as a State was pending before Congress. Two Senators (Gwin and Fremont) and a member of Congress (Gilbert) had been elected and were awaiting the act of admission before taking their seats in the National Legislative. They were also in Washington and the united effort of all Californians of influence was being brought to bear upon Congress for favorable action. The main opposition to admission came from the pro-slavery element of the South. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>To admit California as a free State would destroy the equilibrium of free and slave territory. Hence the opposition of the South was most bitter and determined. Even the representatives from the North were not unanimous. Daniel Webster reiterated his previously expressed opinion that we had territory enough; that we should follow the Spartan maxim,--"Improve, adorn what you have, seek no further," and it was understood that others were much of the same mind. In this connection it is related that at a certain stage of the proceedings the Californians had become much discouraged at the outlook in Congress, and Bidwell was preparing to return home on an early steamer. He had been commissioned, when he left California, by a friend, Mr. E. C. Crosby, to escort the latter's wife and daughter back from New York to San Francisco. In an interview with Mrs. Crosby he gave voice to the discouraging situation, mentioning that if the support and influence of Senator Seward could be secured, their cause would be likely to triumph. Mrs. Crosby, who had been a classmate of Seward at school, invited the Senator to a farewell dinner before her departure for California, at which function Bidwell had opportunity to present to him the cogent reasons existing for California's admission, and these reasons were made so plain and so convincing that in the final struggle in the Senate Seward not only supported the claims of California by his vote, but in a speech eloquently appealed to his colleagues to support the measure, saying: "Let California come in. California, that comes from the clime where the west dies away into the rising east. California, which bounds at once the empire and the continent. California, the youthful Queen of the Pacific, in the robes of freedom gorgeously inlaid with gold is doubly welcome. She stands justified for all the irregularities in the method of coming."</P>
046.sgm:<P>On the 12th day of August, 1850, the bill for admission passed the Senate; on the 7th day of September following, was concurred in by the house of Representatives, and on the 9th was approved by President Fillmore. Bidwell sailed on the earliest steamer for San Francisco, arriving from Panama on the Oregon on the 18th of October, and bringing to Californians the first news of completed Statehood.</P>
046.sgm:<P>During the decade that followed, Bidwell devoted himself with earnest enthusiasm to the development of his magnificent landed estate, where in 1852 he built a large two-story adobe, which served both as a residence and a house of entertainment for travelers along the Oregon road, pausing only at infrequent intervals to perform the honorary, political duties thrust upon him by his appreciative neighbors. Thus, in 1851, he was a delegate to the Democratic State Convention: in 1854, was Vice-President of the Democratic State Convention; in 1855, was a candidate for the State Senate and in 1860 the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The Avenue Leading from Bidwell Mansion</P>
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046.sgm:<P>When the clash came between the North and the South, and the seceding States formed the Southern Confederacy, John Bidwell cast all party allegiance aside and dedicated every impulse of his loyal heart to the support of his country's cause.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In June, 1861, he made the following remarks before the Douglass County Convention of Butte County:</P>
046.sgm:<P>"Our meeting on this occasion has been under circumstances of more than usual importance. I cordially endorse the Union sentiments we have just heard so eloquently expressed and yield to no man in devotion to our common country. In the present crisis there can be but one issue--our Government must be sustained or it will go down. There can be no middle ground. He who is not for it is against it. Such was our progress in all the attributes of national greatness and power, that no statesman, however wise, no human sagacity, however profound, could have formed the least conception of the high position we were destined to hold among the powers of the globe. Must all this be lost to us and to the world? Shall we aid the madness and folly that now seeks the destruction of the greatest and best government ever devised by human wisdom? No loyal citizen can give but one response. The laws must be executed and the Government sustained at every hazard--no matter by whom administered. It is now twenty years since I crossed the parched and trackless waste which then separated the Atlantic from the Pacific slope of the continent. I have learned to appreciate the advantages of a free and efficient government and I feel in this hour of peril more determined than ever before in my devotion to my country."</P>
046.sgm:<P>In 1863 he was appointed Brigadier General of the California Militia, and to his intense loyalty, military alertness and efficiency on the one hand, coupled with the unrivaled and convincing eloquence of Rev. Thos. Starr King, is due, more than to any other individual influences, the decision of California to remain loyal to the Union, despite the desperate efforts of the powerful Southern element led by Gwin, Terry and others.</P>
046.sgm:<P>As the candidate of the Union party, he was elected to the Thirty-ninth Congress, and the same year was a delegate to the National Convention at Baltimore, which renominated Abraham Lincoln for President.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In 1866, be was tendered a renomination for Congress, and in 1867, the nomination for Governor, both of which he declined.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In 1875 he was a candidate of the Independent or Anti-Monopoly party for Governor. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>In 1890 he was the standard-bearer of the Prohibition party for the same office, and two years later was honored by the same party as its nominee for President of the United States. This was his last appearance as a candidate for any political office.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In his political life and expressions, General Bidwell was ever a man of deep and positive convictions. Whenever it seemed to him that the political party with whom he was allied was following after strange gods, he hesitated not a moment to denounce its course. No call of expediency fell upon his approving ear; no fear of party discipline or of personal disadvantage closed his lips. To him politics meant good government; "government of the people, by the people, for the people." It meant a purpose single and constant for the rights of each individual and for the welfare of the public. It meant hatred of bossism, monopoly and graft in all their multifarious and insidious forms. It meant a high standard of morality, a cleanliness of conscience, a clear discernment of public duty and an intense and lofty patriotism that was bounded only by the two great oceans.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Though holding such positive views, he was ever patient and tolerant of the honest convictions of others. Though a large employer of labor, no man in his employ, however humble, was ever made to feel that his employment depended in any sense upon his political views and opinions, and he had no patience with a man whose sense of responsibility and patriotism failed to stimulate him to the proper exercise of his rights of franchise.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He ever led the advance guard for public improvements. In his annual address before the Northern District Agricultural Society in 1865, he said: "Of all things necessary to promote the progress of the Pacific Coast, none will compare with the completion of a railway across the continent. Our hopes and prayers should be centered upon its earliest possible completion. With this great enterprise accomplished, our destiny, in spite of wicked men, would be inseparably connected with the Union."</P>
046.sgm:<P>While in Congress, he introduced and fathered a bill for the construction of the California and Oregon Railroad, accompanied by a liberal grant of public lands, and when the road came to be constructed, granted it a free right of way for four miles across the most fertile portion of his ranch.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But while he was thus favorable to public improvements, he was one of the first to see and sound a note of warning against the oppression of a monopoly. In a carefully prepared address before the State Agricultural Society at Sacramento in 1867, he said: "Our great hope is centered on the completion of the Pacific Railroad, but if possible to avoid it, we ought not to be obliged to wait for that event, or be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Though uttered nearly forty years ago, how prophetic these words seem, and how very like a reformer's speech in the halls of legislation in this year of our Lord, 1906.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Acting upon these principles, when the extortions and tyranny of the transportation system became unbearable to himself and his neighbors, General Bidwell sought to relieve the latter as well as himself by placing upon the Sacramento River a steamboat for transporting grain and other freight to market at reasonable rates. But after expending many thousands of dollars in the unequal contest with the immense power and capital of the transportation company, coupled with the lack of co-operation and support of the community at large, he was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Gen. Jno. Bidwell in 1895</P>
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046.sgm:<P>When the National Prohibition Convention met at Cincinnati in July, 1892, the name of General Bidwell was presented as a candidate for the Presidential nomination. He was nominated on the first ballot, receiving 583 votes as against 184 for his highest competitor. A prominent Prohibition paper, speaking of the nomination the following day, said: "From the very outset his name had a charm for Prohibitionists, and as the campaign advanced, the call became general, until during the last week preceding the convention it became the watchword of the party, culminating in his nomination. General Bidwell's name is a tower of strength. His honorable record, public spirit and well-known views upon the grave questions of the time, all tend to attract voters toward his cause."</P>
046.sgm:<P>Even such of his political enemies as cared for fairness and honesty of statement, had a kindly word to speak of him. The <HI REND="italics">Wine and</HI>
046.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Spirit Review,</HI>
046.sgm:<P>In his letter of acceptance, General Bidwell discussed fully all the leading questions of the day, including equal suffrage--of which he was an ardent advocate,--capital and labor, immigration and naturalization, the laws concerning which, in his belief, needed radical revision,--the tariff, the income tax, popular education, the Christian Sabbath, arbitration, pools and trusts, qualifications for citizenship and the liquor traffic.</P>
046.sgm:<P>On this latter topic he observed: "The liquor traffic is an enormous incubus upon the nation, amounting in cost and consequences to the annual sum of not less than two billions of dollars. It is a standing curse, a danger to public health, the prolific source of untold political corruption, crimes, diseases, degradation and death; a public nuisance and a public immorality; an unmitigated and measureless evil without a redeeming feature. The liquor power leads, corrupts and dominates both the old political parties. If these charges are true have we not a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>In discussing the qualifications for citizenship he said: "In 1776 we needed immigration, but times have changed. All the world has been and still is coming to us. But we must now begin to close the doors of self-defense. We do not want the world faster than we can Americanize it. We have already quite enough of imported nihilism, anarchism and pauperism. We do not ask foreigners coming to this country to change their faith, but we do insist that they shall not destroy our liberties by any attempt to foreignize or anarchize us or our government; that as a condition of citizenship they should learn to speak our national language and to read and write it fairly well."</P>
046.sgm:<P>When the votes were counted in November it was found that General Bidwell had received the largest vote ever cast for a prohibition candidate, nor has his vote been equaled by any candidate of the party since that date.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But the political and military career and services of General Bidwell were no more honorable, no more illustrious, no more useful than his contributions and labors in the fields of agriculture, horticulture and forestry. He was a passionate lover of nature in all its varied and beautiful forms. He was among the earliest to appreciate the fact that the future prosperity of the State lay in the development of her agricultural resources, rather than in her mineral wealth. He realized that agriculture is the prolific mother of wealth. That without it man soon exhausts nature and exhausts himself. The earth breeds savages. Agriculture breeds enlightened nations. The state of husbandry in any country is the test of its enlightenment. The thermometer of civilization rises and falls as drives the plow. Well cultivated farms grow true patriots. When monarchs increase in power, it is the growth of tyranny. Not so with the farmer. His tyranny is over the barrenness. He smites the earth and it brings forth in abundance; he brings his enemies to the faggot and the stake, but they are the thorn, the thistle and the briar. He overruns and subdues the territory of his foes; but they are the swamp, the fen and the quagmire; the earth is his slave, but it is the slavery of love. Agriculture forms character. No man can be a good farmer who is not an industrious man and the accumulations of his industry make him a careful guardian of his own as well as a respecter and defender of his neighbor's possessions.</P>
046.sgm:<P>And thus it came about, holding these views, that when in 1852 a movement was inaugurated for the formation of a State Agricultural <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>At frequent intervals between 1860 and 1881 he delivered, upon invitation of the Society, the principal address at its annual gatherings.</P>
046.sgm:<P>As already noted, as early as 1847 he had planted vines and fruit trees upon his rancho. These plantings were increased from year to year until, at the time of his death, he had over eighteen hundred acres in fruit. Every species and every variety that had a possibility of coming to perfection in either a temperate or semi-tropic clime was tested and the results carefully noted.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A sample or experimental orchard near his house contained at least one specimen tree of over four hundred varieties of fruit.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He was one of the earliest to discover the adaptability of soil and climate for raisin-growing in California, as he also was of the very first to make them in commercial quantity.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He was a pioneer in the manufacture of olive oil, and in a test made some years ago his oil was officially declared to be the best in quality of any in the State, and absolutely pure.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He began the cultivation of wheat and other grains with his first year's ranching. He tested the virtue and adaptability, through long years of experiment, of every kind and variety and freely gave to the public the benefit of his experience.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Many thousands of dollars were thus expended by him in an unselfish effort for the public good. Gold medals were awarded him at both the Paris and New Orleans expositions for his incomparable display of grains.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He erected and operated the first water-power grist-mill in his section of the State, and though several times destroyed by fire, if was rebuilt each time on the same spot with increased capacity and improved power and machinery.</P>
046.sgm:<P>At this mill and on Rancho Chico in 1877, as related by the editor of a local paper, the following feat was successfully carried out: "At a quarter to five o'clock, the usual time for the hands commencing work, the hands were in the field, two miles and a half from the mill, and at five minutes to five the first header wagon brought a load of wheat to the threshing machine, which was put through and sacked. The first two sacks were placed in a buggy and carried to the mill where it was put through the cleaning process and ground into flour. At half-past six o'clock we received a portion of the flour and at a quarter before seven we sat down to our breakfast to eat nice biscuits <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Almond Orchard in Blossom--Rancho Chico</P>
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046.sgm:<P>While he experienced a deep fascination for the development of all these commercial commodities, his love for the beautiful and ornamental was no less marked. From the portico of his stately mansion more than ninety varieties of trees and shrubs could be counted, many of them of foreign origin, and whose adaptability to the soil and climate of California were here tested and made manifest for the first time.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Twenty years ago he carved a tract of thirty acres out of his great ranch and presented it to the State as a Forestry Station for the planting and testing of tree seeds and tree growth. Of all his public benefactions this was the only one concerning which General Bidwell was ever known to express disappointment or regret. At the time of the gift a State Forestry Commissioned existed for which the Legislature was accustomed to make a bi-ennial appropriation of thirty thousand dollars. As with many another public body, the appropriation came to be principally absorbed in the salaries, traveling expenses, etc., of the Commission and its employees, and very little found its way into the supposed objects and purposes of the law creating the Commission, at least so far as the Chico Forestry Station was concerned.</P>
046.sgm:<P>So far from being made a medium for testing the adaptability of new trees and shrubs to the soil and climate of California, very little was planted not already familiarly growing in the nurseries and elsewhere in the State, and that little was for years so neglected and became so choked with weeds as to jeopardize its healthful and legitimate growth as well as to become a menace to the surrounding lands of Rancho Chico, in the dissemination of noxious seeds.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In recent years, however, the Station has been under the care and management of the State University and while the appropriations available have been very meagre, some of the more offensive features of its management have been eliminated.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The great forests of the Sierras were ever a subject for the admiration and solicitude of General Bidwell. He had reverently viewed their grandeur and enthusiastically explored their depths. To his mind, experience and observation proved that no country can long maintain a high degree of prosperous fertility without forest trees and shrubbery. Besides the salubrity to which they conduce and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>It was his belief that the ruthless cutting of timber from the slopes of the Sierras decreased the annual rainfall, and paradoxical though it may seem, increased the destructiveness of floods, because with the sheltering shade of the trees removed the snow on the hillsides melted more rapidly and the water was permitted a less leisurely course to the streams below.</P>
046.sgm:<P>General Bidwell has been the friend and companion and his home the resort of many of the most distinguished naturalists, including Sir Joseph Hooker, Professor Asa Gray, John Muir and Dr. Parry, all of whom wandered with him through the great forests of the Sierras in pursuit of science.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The deep interest he took in all branches of natural history made his society agreeable to men of learning.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A profound concern in and devotion to schools and churches marked his whole career. Memories of the difficulties and hardships that encompassed his efforts to secure an education made him a passionate partisan of the public school.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He was determined that every child should have opportunity for educational development and was a firm advocate of a law for compulsory school attendance. When the State Legislature made appropriation for a State Normal School and Chico became an applicant for its location, General Bidwell, although then absent in the East, wired his consent to take any portion of his ranch for a site, except his door-yard, and a site of eight acres, valued at fifteen thousand dollars was selected adjoining the city limits.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When he laid out the town of Chico on a portion of his land, a plot of ground was donated to every church organization, in addition to large cash contributions for the erection of the Presbyterian Church, of which denomination he was a leading and consistent member until his death.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Physically, General Bidwell was a stalwart. Standing full six feet in height, erect and straight as a pine of the Sierras, his figure was one to command attention. Accustomed to and infatuated with outdoor exercise, he rejoiced in exploring the canyons and climbing the rugged mountain steeps. Only two years before his death, when seventy-eight years of age, he climbed to the very pinnacle of Lassen's Peak, an altitude of ten thousand five hundred feet. He was a man of dauntless pluck and determination, as is evidenced by the incident related of himself, that when a boy his father removed from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>Like Hampden, "he was a man in whom virtue showed itself in its mildest and least austere form. With the morals of a Puritan, he had the manners of a courtier. He had a natural cheerfulness and vivacity and above all a flowing courtesy to all men. He had a cool temper, calm judgment, generous impulses and perfect rectitude of intention." In entertaining his many visitors and friends; in riding, reading and attending to his varied farm interests, he passed his later years in comfort and enjoyment.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A student of nature, as well as of books, the broad path of progress and development was a highway he loved to travel and its beauties and benefits were absorbed with eager interest and profit. If a new and prolific variety of grain was offered, he was ready to test, and if found worthy, to adopt it. Could he hear of a curious or promising development in fruits or melons, he did not rest until the soil and climate of his beloved Rancho Chico had verified or refuted their value. When the people needed an outlet for their produce, he constructed, largely at his own expense, a wagon-road for seventy miles across the rugged Sierras. Thus his public spirit found an abiding place in the front rank of progress. His investigating mind threw new light upon the farmer's duty and office. He recognized that the science of the last half century had raised the culture of the soil into the most noble of the arts to which man can devote himself. To plant a grain of wheat and see it bring forth twenty or thirty fold seemed a very simple thing, but study the relations of one wheat blade to the forces and laws of nature and see what begins to open before you. It will be impossible to master it without peering into the central mysteries of chemistry; without comprehending the most intricate balances of meteorology; without fathoming the beautiful and complicate marvels of light; without understanding the beneficence of the season's changes and the dependence of the earth upon the royal favor of the sun.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In closing an address before the State Agricultural Society in 1860, General Bidwell said: "Having witnessed the past and ventured to look forward toward a hopeful future, I beg to say that it is with pleasure and with pride that I now behold, not the nucleus of the new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Fruit Drying--Rancho Chico</P>
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046.sgm:<P>In this spirit, and with these views, did General Bidwell devote himself to the evolution of his great estate, which from plain and foothill cattle range was transformed into the most beautiful, productive and famous ranch in California.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When General Bidwell came into possession of Rancho Chico and the lands on which the City of Chico now stands, a rancheria or village of Indians was located along the south bank of Chico Creek. He thus describes them in 1847: "When I came to survey this and other ranchos in this part of California, the Indians were almost as wild as deer and wholly unclad, save that the women always wore a skirt-like covering, divided at the side, made of tule, a kind of rush, which was fastened to a belt or to handles thrust under the belt. When I began surveying, not having enough white men, I had to use Indians. In clearing away brush and brambles it became necessary to furnish them something in the way of clothing, including shoes, pantaloons and shirts, which were often removed by them as soon as the work was done and carried home to their village in their hands, to be brought back in the morning and worn while at work, and for many years afterward in stormy, weather they took off their shoes, wearing them only while at work under shelter. But they soon learned to wear the clothes day and night until worn out."</P>
046.sgm:<P>Thus at variance with the usual frontier white man's method of seeking the violent expulsion or extermination of the Indian, General <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>He set apart for them and removed them to a tract of land about half a mile northwest of his house, aided and encouraged them to substitute frame houses for their native earthen huts and afforded them protection from the intrusion and outrage of lawless whites.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He was their sole judge, counsellor and protector. His word was law. All disputes and difficulties arising from their daily routine of life were settled by him, who after listening to both sides of a story would administer the necessary justice, inquire about their wives and families and send them on their way. Thus this story has been related as an illustration:</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wahokea would accuse Noel of having his bridle. The two would repair to the Mansion, as the General's house was called, to consult the General, who if the day was sunny would be found seated on his wide veranda. He was probably attired, if the weather was warm, in a duck suit, while carrying in his hand the inevitable palm-leaf fan, which he would wave back and forth in his calm, unruffled way.</P>
046.sgm:<P>"Now," would say the General in measured tones, as the two would appear before him, "what is the difficulty?"</P>
046.sgm:<P>"Well, this man Wahokea, he have my bridle," would answer Noel.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Then Wahokea would take off his hat and bow and answer, "No, General, I no have those bridle, he mine."</P>
046.sgm:<P>"Oh, my, oh my!" the General would gasp, "this is really getting serious." And then perhaps the fan would move a little faster.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Noel would look at Wahokea and Wahokea would look at Noel.</P>
046.sgm:<P>"Well, you see, General, it is this way," Wahokea would hesitate and finally go on, "my mother she died. Noel father he died. My father he marry Noel mother. Noel mother my mother now. She say him bridle hers,--belong my father,--belong to her,--belong to Noel and----"</P>
046.sgm:<P>Here the General would shift uneasily on his chair, fan slowly and gaze far across at an acacia tree in bloom, and then without looking at either Noel or his companion, he would ask:</P>
046.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>"And what does your father say, Wahokea?"</P>
046.sgm:<P>"He no say nothing, General; he go and catch fish, General."</P>
046.sgm:<P>Another silence. Finally the General would say to Wahokea, "You have done most of the talking, so you keep the bridle, and you, Noel, as you haven't talked much, you may go down to the harness house and ask Andy for that new bridle of mine. And how is your wife, Wahokea? And your baby, Noel?"</P>
046.sgm:<P>The two would say goodbye and walk away, the General calling after them, "Tell Andy it's the one with the red buttons on the side."</P>
046.sgm:<P>As the years passed on a new factor entered into the management of the Indian question on Rancho Chico. In 1868 General Bidwell married Miss Annie Kennedy, of Washington City, the daughter of Joseph C. G. Kennedy, a man of high social and literary standing, who had been Superintendent of the United States Census of 1850 and 1860.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Immediately after her arrival, Mrs. Bidwell began to feel an interest in the Indians and their evolution that soon ripened into a fascination.</P>
046.sgm:<P>She developed plans for their elevation and education along both religious and industrial lines. She established an industrial school through which they were taught to cut and make their own garments; they were also taught to read and sing, and finally at their own request, a pretty and comfortable little church was built for them in the midst of their village and where Mrs. Bidwell has since made it her pleasureable duty to conduct religious services for their benefit.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In all this work she was nobly and faithfully seconded and assisted by General Bidwell.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Such has been the life, the history and the achievements of this broad-minded, persistent, progressive, philanthropic, and withal most modest, Pioneer of 1841. To whom does the State of California owe more homage? Whose memory is more deserving of her faithful consideration? Whose deeds are more worthy of perpetuation in imperishable bronze or marble? If any there be, let his name be proclaimed from the housetops, for the people of the Golden West do not know him.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But this long life of adventure and achievement was drawing to a close. Though eighty years of age General Bidwell's health was good and his outdoor activity and usefulness were unimpaired. Indeed, for the two years preceding his death, he had been most actively engaged in superintending the regrading and improvement of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Scene in Chico Creek Canon--Rancho Chico</P>
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046.sgm:<P>On the night of April 3, 1900, he had attended a political meeting and returned home feeling as well as usual. On the following morning he went to the woods with a couple of assistants to do some work. It became necessary to cut a log, as a result of which operation he was suddenly seized with heart failure. Assistance was summoned and he was hastily conveyed to his home where, after a recurring attack, he passed quietly into eternity at 2:30 P.M.</P>
046.sgm:<P>There remained but the memory of a useful life, the glory of an honorable career, the example of a faithful steward. From all sections of California and from the country at large came messages of sympathy and condolence. Locally, special meetings were called of the different organizations and resolutions of respect and affection were offered and adopted. The City Trustees, the various fire and hose companies, Halleck Post of the G. A. R., the Women's Christian Temperance Union, the student body and the faculty of the State Normal School, The Republican Club, The Native Sons of the Golden West, Company A, National Guard of California, Presbyterian Mite Society, the various church organizations and the county officials of Butte County, all gave expressions of deepest grief.</P>
046.sgm:<P>On the 11th day of April all that was mortal of John Bidwell was committed to the grave. The funeral services were conducted from the portico of the Bidwell Mansion, attended by a large concourse of friends and neighbors who stood reverently and patiently throughout the services in spite of a cold, drizzling rain.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Among those who aided in conducting the services was the venerable Rev. S. H. Willey, who was Chaplain of the first Senate of California, of which body General Bidwell was a member.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The funeral procession was led by the local company of the California National Guard, followed by the City Trustees, County Officers, Fire Department, Grand Army of the Republic, Native Sons of the Golden West, Women's Christian Temperance Union and sundry other organizations, while the school children carpeted the roadway to the cemetery with beautiful flowers. Among the pall bearers, were four of the leading Indians of the village. Their presence, as well as that of the entire population of the Indian rancheria, was one of the most impressive and touching scenes at the funeral.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the weeks that followed, memorial services were held at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<P>"He was the ideal pioneer. In discovery, in research, in the domain of thought, we find him fearlessly treading unknown paths and blazing the wilderness for generations yet to be. In every expedition looking to the uplifting of humanity, in every movement leading mankind to higher planes and broader fields, we find this pioneer spirit ever controlling. It was the master principle of his life, the mainspring governing and directing a grand existence. No man more proudly marched in the front rank of advancing thought and progress. To him, who had aught to offer of useful invention; to the thinker who wrought for the betterment of the race, his mind was open to receive, his purse was open to assist.</P>
046.sgm:<P>"John Bidwell was ever a good man, always a pure man, from first to last a man of high ideals, aiming and hoping for something better, striving for the best.</P>
046.sgm:<P>"So he lived and when death came unwarned, swift and painless, it found him as ever ready. And he went, not like the stricken pine midst winter's storm, crashing headlong to earth with roar and echo, but gently and noiseless , as if a tired flower had folded its leaves at sunset and slept.</P>
046.sgm:<P>"Would we build a monument to this man? Then let it not be of granite nor of marble to crumble and decay. Let it not be of bronze to blacken and yield to the resistless hand of time. Rather let him live in the memory of a grateful people. Let those Sierras, whose heights his feet first trod, be for him monument and epitaph. Let spring-time zephyrs that woo the wild vine and golden poppy along the paths he loves so well, chant for him requiem and dirge; for so long as the oak shall lend its beauty to the plain, so long as wild flowers shall spread their mantle of gold and purple on the hills of old Butte, so long as the golden Feather shall bear her treasure from its mountain fastnesses, so long as his own loved Arroyo shall, midst vine and grass and fern, go singing to the sea, so long in the hearts of our people will live the memory of John Bidwell."</P>
046.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Requiescit in Pace."</HI>
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046.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">ADDRESSES</HI>
046.sgm:<LB><HI REND="bold">REMINISCENCES, ETC.</HI>
046.sgm:<LB>OF<LB><HI REND="bold">General John Bidwell</HI>
046.sgm:<P>Compiled by</P>
046.sgm:<P>C. C. ROYCE</P>
046.sgm:<P>CHICO, CALIFORNIA, 1907</P>
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046.sgm:<P>BERKELEY, April 23, 1907.<LB></P>
046.sgm:<P>I hereby certify that the following copy of John Bidwell's trip to California, 1841, has been verified, page by page, and line by line, and is a true copy of the printed journal in the Bancroft Library, University of California.</P>
046.sgm:<P>JAMES R. ROBERTSON, Assistant Custodian Bancroft Library, and Teaching Fellow in History, University of California.</P>
046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>The publisher of this Journal, being aware that a great many persons, in Missouri and of the other Western States, are at this time anxious to get correct information relative to Oregon and California, hopes in part to gratify them by giving publicity to these sheets through the press; having been solicited to do so by men of information who have perused them in manuscript.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The author, Mr. John Bidwell, a young man of good acquirements and unexceptionable moral character, came to Missouri from the Buckeye State about four years ago, and resided in Platte County two years, during which time he made many staunch friends, and was prosperous in business.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But the many inducements held forth to enterprising young men to go to California, caused him to adopt the motto, "Westward ho," shoulder his rifle, and join one of the California Companies which leave the rendezvous near Independence annually. Prior to his going, he promised his friends to keep a Journal, noticing the incidents of the trip, and also give his observations of the country after his arrival there. This promise he has redeemed, by forwarding the publisher this copy of his Journal, etc.</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A JOURNEY TO CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Bodega, Port of the Russians, Upper California, March 30th, 1842.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Most Esteemed Sir: Owing to circumstances I am compelled to abridge my Journal, and likewise a description of the country so far as I have been able to travel.</P>
046.sgm:<P>By perusing the following pages you will learn most of the particulars of all my travels since I left the United States.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I will now begin with my daily Journal, from the time the company arrived at Kansas River, till they arrived at Marsh's, in Upper California.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The missionary company consisted of eleven persons, viz.: Capt. Fitzpatric, the pilot, Father De Smet, Pont and Mengarine, missionaries; John Gray, hunter; Romaine, and five teamsters.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our company was composed of the following individuals: T. H. Green, G. Hinshaw, Charles Hopper, J. P. Springer, A. G. Patton, J. Bartleson, N. Dawson, Josiah Belden, J. M. Jones, J. W. Chandler, John DeSwart, H. S. Brolaske, M. C. Nye, Elias Barnet, Major Walton, A. Walton, Green McMahan, J. McDowel, R. H. Thomes, Elisha Stone, Isaiah Kelsey, Samuel Kelsey and family, William Towler, Richard Williams and family, E. W. Flugge, W. P. Overton, George Simpson, V. W. Dawson, Andrew Kelsey, Benj. Kelsey and family, Edw. Rogers, D. F. Hill, A. Cook, Jones Carroll, Jas. Ross, Henry Huber, John Roland, Wm. Belty, Thos. Jones, Augustus Fifer, Jas. John, R. Rickman, H. Peyton, Chiles, Charles Weaver and James Shotwell, the last six did not overtake us at Kansas River.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The trappers for the mountains are the following: Jas. Baker, Piga, a Frenchman, and Wm. Mast.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A. E. Frye and Rogers, on a pleasure excursion; Williams, a preacher on a visit to Oregon.</P>
046.sgm:<P>May T. 18th, 1841.--Having waited at this place (two miles west of Kansas River), two days, and all the company being arrived, except those heretofore mentioned, the company was convened for the purpose of electing a captain and adopting rules for the government of the company. when T. H. Green was chosen president, and J. Bidwell secretary.</P>
046.sgm:<P>After the rules were read and adopted, J. Bartleston was elected captain; it will be understood that Fitzpatric was captain of the missionary company and pilot of the whole. Orders were given for the company to start in the morning, and the meeting broke up.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 19th.--This morning, the wagons started off in single file; first the four carts and one small wagon of the missionaries: next eight wagons drawn by mules and horses, and lastly, five wagons drawn by seventeen yoke of oxen. It was the calculation of the company to move on slowly till the wagon of Chiles overtook us. Our course was west. Leaving the Kansas no great distance to our left, we traveled in the valley of the river, which was prairie excepting near the margin of the stream. The day was very warm, and we stopped about noon, having traveled about twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>This afternoon we had a very heavy shower of rain and hail. Several Kansas Indians came to our camp; they were well armed with bows and arrows, and some had guns; they were daily expecting an attack by the Pawnees, whom they but a short time ago had made inroads upon, and had massacred at one of their villages a large number of old men, women and children, while the warriors were hunting buffalo.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 20.--The day was tolerably pleasant. Our road was interrupted by small streams which crossed our course in every two or three miles during the day. The land was prairie, except the narrow groves which accompanied every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>F. 21st.--Our oxen left us last night, and it was 9 o'clock before we were all ready to start; passed a considerable stream called Vermillion, a branch of the Kansas; on its banks was finer timber than we had heretofore seen--hickory, walnut, &amp;c.. The country was prairie, hilly and strong. We passed in the forenoon a Kansas village, entirely deserted on account of the Pawnees. Encamped by a scattering grove, having come about fifteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 22d.--Started at 6 o'clock this morning, traveled about eighteen miles; high, rolling prairie. Encamped on a small stream, shaded by a few willows.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 23d.--All the oxen were gone this morning excepting nine. There was considerable complaint among the company, some saying at this slow rate of traveling we would have to winter among the Black Hills, and eat our mules. We, however, made a start about 9 in the morning, proceeded about nine miles and stopped to wait for Chiles' wagon, which overtook us about 5 p. m. Fourteen Pawnees were seen by the wagon, well armed with spears, &amp;c.. It was supposed they were on an expedition against the Kansas.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 24th.--Traveled about thirteen miles today, over rolling prairies, and arrived at the Big Vermillion, a branch of the Kansas. Here we were obliged to stop, the water being so high as to render it impossible to cross with the wagons.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 25th.--Passed the stream without much trouble and made a stretch of about twenty miles, when we encamped on the border of a beautiful forest, where we found plenty of grass and water. The country over which we passed was similar to that of yesterday.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 26th.--Two wagons were broke today. About a dozen Pawnees came to our camp. Stopped to repair the wagons, having come about fifteen miles. A deer was brought in by C. Hopper. A man by the name of Williams, a Methodist preacher, overtook the company this evening on his way to visit the Oregon Territory; he had not arrived in time to start with the company from the settlements, and had traveled entirely alone, without any gun or other weapon of defense, depending wholly on Providence for protection and support.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 27th.--Started late, being detained at repairing the wagons. The day was warm, but the evening mild and pleasant. Encamped in a commodious valley, well watered by a beautiful little stream which glided smoothly through the scattering grove. Come about fifteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 28th.--Started about sunrise, traveled about five miles and stopped to take breakfast. The heat was oppressive and we were compelled to go twenty miles farther before we came to either wood or water. The stream on which we encamped is a fork of the Kansas and is well known to all the mountaineers by the name of the Big Blue. An antelope was killed.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 29th.--We again started about sunrise and traveled not less than twenty-two miles. One antelope was killed; saw several elk.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 30th.--Nothing of importance occurred; distance, about fifteen miles; grass, mingled with rushes, afforded our animals plenty of food of the best quality. Game appeared to increase, though but one deer and one antelope were brought in.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 31st.--This morning about 10 o'clock we met six wagons with eighteen men, with fur and robes, on their way from Ft. Larimie to St. Louis. Ft. Larimie is situated on Larimie's fork near its junction with the north fork of the Platte, and is about 800 miles from Independence. The wagons were drawn by oxen and mules--the former looked as though they received a thousand lashes every day of their existence! The rusty mountaineers looked as though they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>W. 2d.--This morning the company was convened for the purpose of taking a vote upon the question, whether the companies should continue to travel together; that some were complaining that the missionaries went too fast; but the very thought of leaving Mr. Fitzpatric, who was so well acquainted with the Indians, &amp;c., &amp;c., met, as it ought to have done, the disapprobation of all. We now proceeded directly up the river, making this day about twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 3d.--Still continued up the river; traveled about sixteen miles. Rained in the afternoon.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 4th.--Half-past six this morning saw us on the march. The valley of the river was here about four miles wide. Antelope were seen in abundance. A young man (Dawson) was out hunting, when suddenly a band of Chienne Indians, about forty in number, came upon him; they were pleased to strip him of his mule, gun and pistol, and let him go. He had no sooner reached the camp and related the news than the whole band came in sight. We hastened to form a corral (yard) with our wagons, but it was done in great haste. To show you how it affected the green ones, I will give the answer: I received from a stout young man (and he perhaps was but one of thirty in the same situation) when I asked him how many Indians there were. He answered with a trembling voice, half seared out of his wits, there were lots, gaubs, fields and swarms of them! I do really believe he thought there were some thousands. Lo! there were but forty, perfectly friendly, delivered up every article taken but the pistol.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 5th.--Started early to get clear of our red visitors; descried a large herd of buffalo on the opposite side of the river; saw several boats descending the river, laden with fur, robes, &amp;c.. They belonged to the American Fur Company. One of our company, E. Stone, returned with them. The latter part of the day was very inclement--high winds, dark clouds rushed in wild confusion around and above us. Soon, with amzement, we saw a lofty waterspout, towering like a huge column to support the arch of the sky: and while we were moving with all haste lest it should pass over us and dash our wagons to pieces, it moved off with the swiftness of the wind and was soon lost among the clouds. Rain and hail succeeded, the largest hailstones I ever saw; several were found, an hour after the sun came out bright and warm, larger than a turkey egg. Nine of the Indians that left us this morning returned this evening.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 6th.--This morning was extremely cool for the season. Twenty-five more of the same Indians came up with us.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 7th.--Three Indians continued with us. The wind blew very hard towards evening. Three buffaloes were killed and part of their meat was brought to camp.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 8th.--There were eight or ten buffalo killed today, but not one-tenth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>W. 9th.--Spent the day in crossing the south fork of Platte. A buffalo was killed from a herd that came within 800 yards of the camp. We crossed the river by fording, the water being sufficiently shallow; width of river here, about two-thirds of a miel; its waters are muddy, like those of the Missouri.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 10th.--This morning the most of the oxen were again at large, owing to the neglect of the owners, to the great danger of losing them by the Indians and by their mingling with buffalo, or by their straying so far that it would be impossible to track them on account of the innumerable tracks of the buffalo; making, therefore, rather a late start, we continued to ascend the river on the north side. We traveled about fourteen miles and encamped on the river. Buffalo were seen in countless thousands on the opposite side of the river. From the time we began to journey this morning till we ceased to travel at night, the whole south side of the stream was completely clouded by these huge animals, grazing in the valley and on the hills--ruminating upon the margin of the river, or crowding down its banks for water.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Through the remissness of the sentinels, the guard last night was nearly vacant; and as this was considered dangerous ground on account of the warlike Pawnees, Chiennes, &amp;c., a court-martial was called to force those to their duty on guard, who were so negligent and remiss.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 11.--The oxen had wandered about half a mile from the camp this morning, when a man was sent to bring them in; he soon came running back in great haste, crying, "The Indians are driving the oxen off!" In less than half an hour the oxen were at camp and not an Indian seen. All this is easily accounted for, when we consider how timidity and fear will make every bush, or stone, or stump, an Indian, and forty Indians thousands. Vast herds of buffalo continued to be seen on the opposite side of the river. Distance today, about twenty miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 12th.--Left the south fork, and after a march of twelve miles found ourselves on the north fork. In the afternoon passed a small ash grove of about twenty-five trees; timber is so scarce that such a grove is worthy of notice. We encamped on the north fork, having come about eighteen miles. On leaving the south fork, we left the buffalo also.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 13th.--A mournful accident occurred in the camp this morning. A young man by the name of Shotwell, while in the act of taking a gun out of the wagon, drew it with the muzzle toward him in such a manner that it went off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>M. 14th.--The day was so cool and rainy we did not travel.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 15th.--There was so sudden a change from cool to cold that we were not comfortable in our best apparel. I do not remember that I ever have experienced weather so cold as this season of the year. Traveled about sixteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 16th.--Several wild horses were seen on the opposite side of the river. Advanced about twenty miles; encamped on the river, opposite to high and uneven bluffs, bearing considerable forests of pine.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 17th.--Continued to coast along up the river; encamped on its banks nearly opposite to a huge isolated bluff bearing some resemblance to an immense castle in ruins. Its distance from us no one supposed more than one and one-half miles, and yet it was at least seven--this deception was owing to the pure atmosphere through which it was viewed, and the want of objects by which only accurate ideas of distance can be acquired without measure.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 18th.--About 12 o'clock today we passed another object, still more singular and interesting; it is called by the mountaineers the Chimney, from its resemblance to that sweet; and is composed of clay and sand so completely compact as to possess the hardness of a rock. It stands near the high bluffs that bound the valley on the south, and has been formed from a high, isolated mound which, being washed on every side by the rains and snows of ages, has been worn down till nothing is left but the center, which stands upon an obtuse cone, and is seen towering like a huge column at the distance of thirty miles. The column is 150 feet above the top of the cone, and the whole 250 feet above the level of the plain. Distance made today, about twenty miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 19.--We gradually receded from the river in order to pass through a gap in a range of high hills, called Scot's Bluffs. As we advanced toward these hills, the scenery of the surrounding country became beautifully grand and picturesque--they were worn in such a manner by the storms of unnumbered seasons that they really counterfeited the lofty spires, towering edifices, spacious domes and in fine all the beautiful mansions of cities. We encamped among these envious objects, having come about twenty miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Here we first found the mountain sheep; two were killed and brought to camp. These animals are so often described in almost every little schoolbook that it to unnecessary for me to describe them here.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 20th.--Passed through the gap, came into an extensive plain. The beautiful scenery gradually receded from view: came to a creek called Horse, passed it, reached the river again; cool and windy; having come about twenty-three miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 21st.--We had an uncommonly good road today: an abundance of cottonwood timber; traveled late, having taken a stride of twenty-seven miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 22d.--Eight miles this morning took us to Fort Larimie, which is on Larimie's fork of Platte, about 800 miles from the frontiers of Missouri. It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>W. 23d.--Remained at the Fort. The things of Mr. Shotwell were sold at auction.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 24th.--Left the Fort this morning and soon began to wind among the Black Hills. Two of our men stopped at the Fort, (Simpson and Mast), but two other men, with an Indian and his family, joined us to travel to Green River. Encamped, having made about seventeen miles. Hills here sandy, many wild pears, likewise an abundance of peas (wild, though the bush was dissimilar to ours, yet the pods bore an exact similarity, taste the same).</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 25th.--Journeyed over hills and dales; encamped on a stream affording plenty of grass, better cottonwood timber--it resembles the sweet cottonwood of Missouri, except the leaves are like those of the willow. Distance, eighteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 26th.--Traveled about eighteen miles, and missing our road, encamped on the North Fork. At noon we passed the best grass I had seen since I left the frontier of Missouri; it was like meadow, kind of bluegrass. Found buffalo, killed three.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 27th.--Day was warm, road hilly; found no water for twenty miles; encamped on a stream affording grass and timber in abundance, cottonwood, &amp;c. found no hard timber.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 28th.--Passed an immense quarry of beautiful white alabaster. Three buffalo killed. Distance traveled, eighteen miles; encamped on a little rivulet affording as good water as ever run.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 29th.--Arrived at the North Fork this evening; road good; distance traveled, fifteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 30th.--Ascended the North Fork about sixteen miles and encamped on it. Buffalo in abundance, killed six.</P>
046.sgm:<P>July, T. 1st.--Spent the day in passing over the river to the north side of it; the water ran very rapidly, and it was with considerable difficulty that we forded it. One mule was drowned, and one wagon upset in the river. The water in the North Fork is not so muddy as the South Fork.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 2d.--Continued to coast up the North Fork. The bottoms of the river were in many places completely covered with glauber salts, so much so that even handfuls could be taken up perfectly white. A man (Mr. Belden) was hunting a short distance from the company and left his horse tied while he crept in pursuit of a buffalo, but be was not able to find the same place again and consequently lost his horse. Though the country is perfectly free from timber, excepting near the river, yet there is so great a similarity in the hills that experienced hunters are frequently bewildered in a clear sky when attempting to find a certain place a second time.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 3d--Left the North Fork; a distance of twelve miles took us to a spring of cool, though unpleasantly tasted, water. The day was intensely warm, and road mountainous. Killed four buffalo and two deer.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 4th.--Pursued our way over hills and dales, scorched with heat; came to a small copse of red willows, from which issued excellent springs of water. Three buffalo killed. Distance traveled, twenty-two miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 5th.--The hills continued to increase in height. After traveling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>T. 6th.--This morning John Gray and Romaine were sent on to Green River to see if there were any trappers at the rendezvous, and then return to the company with the intelligence. All hands were anxious to have their names inscribed on this memorable land-mark, so that we did not start until near noon. Went up stream about eight miles and encamped on Sweet Water.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 7th.--As we journeyed, the mountains were high and naked; passed a pond that was nearly dried up, perfectly white with glauber salts, and in many places two or three inches deep, so that large lumps weighing several pounds were taken up. Buffalo increased in number; ten were killed. Traveled today about fourteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 8th.--This morning we came in sight of Wind River Mountains; their snow-enveloped summits were dimly seen through the misty clouds that obscured the western horizon. Made about fifteen miles today and encamped on Sweet Water, in full view of thousands of buffalo; twenty were killed; we now began to lay in meat to last us over the mountains to California.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 9th.--Traveled about eighteen miles. Killed ten buffalo.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 10th.--Traveled about fourteen miles, and stopped to kill and dry meat; buffalo began to grow scarce.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 11th.--More than half the company sallied forth to kill meat, but the whole killed but six or seven buffalo. Remained hunting and drying meat: killed today but four or five buffalo.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 13th.--Left our hunting encampment and met John Gray and Romaine returning from Green River; they found no person at the rendezvous on Green River, nor any game ahead; it was therefore thought best to lay in more meat, while we were in the vicinity of the buffalo. We therefore came to a halt, having traveled about fifteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 14th.--Company engaged in hunting and curing meat.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 15th.--As many of the company had articles of traffic which they wished to dispose of at Green River, a subscription was raised to recompense any who would go and find the trappers. John Gray started in pursuit of them, while the company marched on slowly, waiting his return. Traveled about six miles today.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 16th.--Traveled about ten miles and encamped opposite the Wind River Mountains, where we were in full view of many lofty peaks glittering with eternal snow and frost under the blaze of a July sun.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 17th.--Traveled about five miles--still on Sweet Water.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 18th.--Left Sweet Water this morning, course southwest; crossed the divide which separates the water of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and after a travel of twenty miles reached Little Sandy, a branch of Green River. One buffalo was killed.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 19th.--Fifteen miles took us on to Big Sandy, which is likewise a branch of Green River. Two buffalo were killed.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 20th.--Traveled about eighteen miles in a circuitous direction, first west, then south; country was extremely dry and dusty; no game seen but a few antelope. Encamped on Big Sandy, having come about eighteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 21st--Descended Big Sandy about fifteen miles and again encamped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>T. 22d.--Descended Big Sandy about twelve miles and stopped where we found plenty of grass--this was very acceptable, as our teams were already much jaded for want of grass. The oxen, however, stood travel, &amp;c., as well as the horses and mules. Gray returned this evening, having found Trapp's company, which consisted of about twenty men; they had returned to meet our company, though on their way to hunt buffalo, and were now encamped on Green River, about eight miles distant. Gray had suffered much in overtaking the trappers; his mule gave out, there being no water for a great distance, and he himself was so much reduced by hunger and thirst that he was unable to walk; he was therefore compelled to crawl upon his hands and feet, and at last came up with the company, in the most forlorn situation imaginable; if they bad been another half-mile farther he never could have reached them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 23d.--Went to Green River, distance eight miles; spent the remainder of the day trading with the hunters.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 24th.--Remained at this encampment and continued our traffic with the hunters. Chiles sold his oxen, two yoke, and wagon; another also was left.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 25th.--Left the rendezvous this morning. Six of the company, viz., John Gray, Peyton, Frye, Rogers, Jones, and Romaine--started to return to the United States. Baker stopped in the mountains to trap. Crossed Green River and descended it about eight miles. Trapp and his company likewise left in pursuit of buffalo.</P>
046.sgm:<P>(Remark.--I will not omit to state the prices of several kinds of mountain goods. Powder, which is sold by the cupful (pint), is worth $1.00 per cup; lead, $1.50 per pound; good Mackinaw blankets, $8 to $15; sugar, $1 per cupful; pepper, $1 also; cotton and calico shirts, from $3 to $5; rifles, from $20 to $60. In return, you will receive dressed deerskins at $3; pants made of deerskins, $10; beaver skins, $10; moccasins, $1; flour sold in the mountains at 50 cents per cupful; tobacco at $2 per pound; butcher knives, from $1 to $3; a good gun is worth as much as a horse--a cap-lock is preferred; caps worth $1 per box. We crossed Green River, went about eight miles down stream, and encamped.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 26th.--Left Green River; moved off in a westerly direction, distance twelve miles; encamped on a branch of Green River called Ham's Fork; land high, dry and barren, except upon the streams, which afford grass in abundance; also black currants, which, though not delicious, are acceptable.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 27th.--Advanced up-stream about twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 28th.--Advanced up-stream about twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 29th.--Advanced up-stream about twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 30th.--Traveled about five miles and camped. Guess what took place? Another family was created! Widow Gray, who was a sister to Mrs. Kelsey, was married to a man who joined our company at Fort Laramie; his right name I forget, but his everywhere name in the mountains was Cocrum. He had but one eye. Marriage ceremony performed by Father De Smet.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 31st.--Left Ham's Fork this morning. A distance of fourteen miles, over an uncommonly hilly road, took us to Black's Fork of Green River, on which we encamped. Here we found it little grass and no wood. The hills which everywhere rose to view were thinly clad with shrubby cedars. The fruit found in this lonesome part of creation--service berries on the mountains and currants on the streams. In the afternoon we descried a large smoke rising from beyond the intervening chain of hills; from this and other signs, we were assured that there were plenty of Indians in the country. It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>S. August 1st.--Ascended Black's Fork about twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 2d.--Retraced about two miles of yesterday's travel and went up another defile, in order to find a practicable route across the divide between the waters of Green and Bear Rivers. Plenty of grass, good spring water. Distance, eleven miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 3d.--Ascended a high divide and passed down a most difficult route into the valley of Bear River. The course of this stream was marked out as it wound its way through the vale by the willows that skirted its banks. Reached the river, where we found abundance of grass, having come about twenty miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 4th.--Did not travel.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 5th.--Proceeded down stream about eighteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 5th.--Had a fine road down the valley of Bear River and made about twenty-five miles during the day. Found many kinds of wild currants--red, black, yellow, &amp;c.--some of which were of an excellent quality.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 7th.--This morning we were obliged to make an inland circuit from the river, the bluffs approaching so near the river as to render it impossible to continue along its banks, We, however, reached it again by a most difficult defile, and beautifully watered by a small rivulet proceeding from a spring. In the afternoon we again left the river on account of the hills, and did not reach it again until dark. The bluffs were exceedingly high, and no person could ever believe that wagons ever passed these huge eminences of nature, did he not witness it with his own eyes. But the pleasing view we had from their top, just as the sun was going to sleep behind the western mountains, paid us for all our trouble. A most beautiful landscape presented itself to view; the rugged summits, of almost every shape, were fantastically pictured upon the sky, bounding the western horizon; a beautiful little lake was seen to the south, whose surface was fancifully mottled with numerous islands, while the river meandered proudly through the valley among willows and scattering cottonwoods, till it disappeared among the hills in the shades of the evening. Distance traveled today, sixteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 8th.--Started about noon and went ten miles. Scenery of the country was grand.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 9th.--Distance, eighteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 10th.--The day was fine and pleasant; a soft and cheerful breeze, and the sky bedimmed by smoke, brought to mind the tranquil season of autumn. A distance of ten miles took us to the Soda Fountain, where we stopped the remainder of the day. This is a noted place in the mountains, and is considered a great curiosity; within the circumference of three or four miles there are included no less than 100 springs, some bursting out on top of the ground, others along the banks of the river, which are very low at this place, and some even in the bottom of the river. The water is strongly impregnated with soda, and wherever it gushes out of the ground a sediment is deposited, of a reddish color, which petrifies and forms around the springs large mounds of porous rock, some of which are no less than fifty feet high. Some of these fountains have become entirely dry, in consequence of the column of water which they contained becoming so high as to create sufficient power by its pressure to force the water to the surface in another place. In several of the springs the water was lukewarm, but none were very cold. The ground was very dry at this time, and made a noise as we passed over it with horses as though it was hollow underneath. Cedar grows here in abundance, and the scenery of the country is romantic. Father De Smet, with two or three flathead Indians, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>W. 11th.--Having traveled about six miles this morning, the company came to a halt. The Oregon company were now going to leave Bear river for Fort Hall, which is situated on Lewis River, a branch of the Columbia. Many, who purposed in setting out to go immediately through to California, here concluded to go into Oregon; so that the California company now consisted of only thirty-two men and one woman and child, there being but one family. The two companies, after bidding each other a parting farewell, started and were soon out of sight. Several of our company, however, went to Fort Hall to procure provision, and to hire if possible a pilot to conduct us to the Gap in the California Mountains; or at least, to the head of Mary's River. We were therefore to move on slow till their return. Encamped on Bear River, having come about twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 13th.--Traveled about ten miles in a southerly direction. It was the intention of the company to stop and hunt in Cash Valley, which is on Bear River three or four days' travel from its mouth.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 14th.--Left the river on account of the hills which obstructed our way on it. Found an abundance of choke-cherries, many of which were ripe. Road uncommonly broken; did not reach the river. Distance, about fourteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 15th.--Continued our journey over hills and ravines, going to almost every point of the compass in order to pass them. The day was very warm. The grass had been very good, but it was now very much parched up. Having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>M. 16th.--This morning there was abundance of water in the little stream, and it was running briskly when we left it. If the water was not supplied by the melting of the snow in the mountains, it was really an interesting spring. Found an abundance of choke-cherries, very large and exquisitely delicious--better than any I ever ate before. Distance traveled, twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 17th.--Traveled about sixteen miles. Saw a large smoke rising out of the mountains before us; it had probably been raised by the Indians as a telegraph to warn the tribe that their land was visited by strangers. We were unable to procure any fuel this evening; we therefore slept without fire. The Indians found in this region are Shoshonees; they are friendly.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 18th.--Traveled but a short distance, when we discovered that a deep salt creek prevented our continuing near the river. In ascending this stream in search of a place to cross it, we found on its margin a hot spring, very deep and clear. The day was very warm and we were unable to reach the river. Encamped on this salt creek and suffered much for water, the water being so salt we could not drink it. Distance, fifteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 19th.--Started early, hoping soon to find water, when we could refresh ourselves and animals. But, alas! the sun beamed heavy on our heads as the day advanced, and we could see nothing before us but extensive arid plains, glimmering with heat and salt. At length the plains became so impregnated with salt that vegetation entirely ceased; the ground was in many places white as snow with salt and perfectly smooth; the mid-day sun, beaming with uncommon splendor upon these shining plains, made us fancy we could see timber upon the plains, and wherever timber is found them is water always. We marched forward with unremitted pace till we discovered it was an illusion, and lest our teams should give out we returned from south to east and hastened to the river, which we reached in about five miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A high mountain overlooked us on the east and the river was thickly bordered with willows; grass plenty, but so salt our animals could scarcely eat it--salt glitters upon its blades like frost. Distance, twenty miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 20th.--Company remained here while two men went to explore the country; they returned bringing the intelligence that we were within ten miles of where the river disembogued itself into the great salt lake. This was the fruit of having no pilot. We had passed through Cash Valley, where we intended to have stopped, and did not know it.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 21st.--Marched off in a northwest direction, and intersected our trail of Thursday last, having made a complete triangle in the plain. At this intersection of the trails, we left a paper elevated by a pole, that the men returning from Fort Hall might shun the tedious rounds we had taken. Found grass and water which answered our purpose very well, though both were salt. Distance, ten miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 22d.--This morning a man (Mr. Bralaski) returned from the Fort, and said the reason why he came alone was, the other man had left him, because he was unable to keep up with them, he having a park-horse laden with provision. He had seen the paper at the intersection of the trails and was guided by it to the camp; the others were undoubtedly going the rounds of the triangle. Sure enough, they came up in the afternoon, having gone to the river and back. No pilot could be got at the Fort. The families that went into Oregon had disposed of their oxen at the Fort, and were going to descend the Columbia River with pack horses--they in exchange received one horse for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>M. 23d.--Started, bearing our course west, in order to pass the Salt Lake, passed many salt plains and springs in the forenoon. The day was hot. The hills and land bordering on the plains were covered with wild sage. In passing the declivity of a hill, we observed this sage had been plucked up and arranged in long winrows, extending near a mile in length. It had been done by the Indians, but for what purpose we could not imagine, unless it was to decoy game. At evening, we arrived in full view of the Salt Lake. Water was very scarce. Cedar grows here, both on the hills and in the valleys. Distance, twenty miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 24th.--Cattle strayed this morning to seek water; late start; day was warm; traveled about ten miles in a westerly direction; encamped where we found numerous springs, deep, clear and somewhat impregnated with salt. The plains were snowy white with salt. Here we procured salt of the best quality. The grass, that grew in small spots on the plains, was laden with salt which had formed itself on the stalks and blades in lumps, from the size of a pea to that of a hen's egg; this was the kind we procured, it being very white, strong and pure.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 25th.--Remained here all day.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 26th.--Traveled all day over dry, barren plains, producing nothing but sage, or rather it ought to be called wormwood, and which I believe will grow without water or soil. Two men were sent ahead in search of water, but returned a little while before dark unsuccessful.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our course intersected an Indian trail, which we followed directly north towards the mountains, knowing that in these dry countries the Indian trails always lead to the nearest water. Having traveled till about 10 o'clock p. m., made a halt, and waited till morning. Distance, about thirty miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 27th.--Daylight discovered to us a spot of green grass on the declivity of the mountain towards which we were advancing; five miles took us to this place, where we found, to our great joy, an excellent spring of water and an abundance of grass; here we determined to continue till the route was explored to the head of Mary's River, and run no more risks of perishing for want of water in this desolate region.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 28th.--Company remained here. A Shoshonee Indian came to our camp, and from him we learned that there were more Indians not far off who had horses. Several men and myself went in search of them. Having gone about five miles, up hills and down hills covered with thick groves of cedar (red), we unexpectedly came to an Indian, who was in the act of taking care of some meat--venison--which he had just killed; about half of which we readily purchased for twelve cartridges of powder and ball. With him as a pilot, we went in pursuit of other Indians; he led us far up in the mountains by a difficult path, where we found two or three families, hid as it were from all the world by the roughness of nature. The only provision which they seemed to have was a few elder berries and a few seeds. Under a temporary covert of bushes I observed the aged patriarch, whose head looked as though it had been whitened by the frosts of at least ninety winters. The scars on his arms and legs were almost countless; a higher forehead I never saw upon man's head. But here, in the solitude of the mountains and with the utmost contentment, he was willing to spend the last days of his life among the hoary rocks and craggy cliffs, where, perhaps, he, in his youthful gayety, used to sport along crystal streams which run purling from the mountains. Not succeeding in finding horses, we returned to the camp. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>S. 29th.--Capt. Bartleson, with C. Hopper, started to explore the route to the head of Mary's River, expecting to be absent about eight or nine days--the company to await here his return.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 30th.--Nothing of importance occurred.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 31st.--No success hunting.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sept., W. 1st.--An ox killed for beef.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 2d.--Idle in camp.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 3d.--Four or five Indians came to camp--bought three horses of them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 4th.--Bought a few service berries of the Indians.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 5th.--Grass having become scarce, we concluded to move on a little every day, to meet Capt. B. and H. Traveled about six miles and encamped by a beautiful cedar grove.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 6th.--Traveled about seven miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 7th.--Traveled about seven miles. Antelope appeared to be plenty.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 8th.--Exceedingly cold; ice in our water buckets. Part of the company remained on account of the cold--two wagons with owners being contrary, went on.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 9th.--The part of the company that remained yesterday went on and overtook the two wagons. Capt. Bartleson and Hopper returned, bringing intelligence that they had found the head of Mary's River--distant about five days' travel. Distance traveled today, about twelve miles, southwest direction. The Indians stole a horse. Day cool.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 10th.--Traveled about fifteen miles and encamped without water.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 11th.--Traveled about fifteen miles and came to water; course west.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 12th.--Mr. Kelsey left his wagons and took his family and goods on pack horses, his oxen not being able to keep up. Distance today, about twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 13th.--Traveled about fifteen miles south, between salt plains on the east and high mountains on the west.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 14th.--Traveled about twenty-five miles and stopped about 9 o'clock at night, in the middle of a dry plain, destitute of water.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 15th.--Started very early; day was exceedingly warm. Passed through a gap in a ridge of mountains, came into a high, dry plain; traveled some distance into it, saw the form of a high mountain through the smoky atmosphere; reached it, having come about fifteen miles. Found plenty of water; our animals were nearly given out. We were obliged to go so much farther in order to get along with the wagons, we concluded to leave them, and pack as many things as we could.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 16th.--All hands were busy making pack-saddles and getting ready to pack. While thus engaged, an Indian, well advanced in years, came down out of the mountains to our camp. He told us by signs that the Great Spirit had spoken to him to go down upon the plains in the morning, and on the east side of the mountains he would find some strange people, who would give him a great many things; accordingly he had come. We gave him all such things as we had intended to throw away; whenever he received anything which he thought useful to him, he paused and looking steadfastly at the sun, addressed him in a loud voice, marking out his course in the sky as he advanced in his invocation, which took him about two minutes to perform. As he received quite a number of articles, it took him a considerable part of the day to repeat his blessings. No Persian, in appearance, could be more sincere.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 17th.--About 11 a. m. all were ready to start; horses, mules and four oxen packed. Proceeded south along the mountains, seeking a place to pass through. At length an Indian trail took us across into a dry plain, perfectly destitute of grass and water. Traveled till about midnight, having come about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>S. 18th.--Morning found us on the east side of a mountain not far from its base, but there were no signs of water. The lost oxen not having come up, I, in company with another young man, went in search of them, while the company went on, promising to stop as soon as they found water. I went back about ten miles, but found nothing of their trail. The sun was in a melting mood; the young man became discouraged, and in spite of all my entreaties returned to the company. About an hour after, I found the trail of the oxen, which bore directly north (the company were traveling southwest). After pursuing it some distance, I discovered fresh moccasin tracks upon the trail, and there began to be high grass, which made me mistrust the Indians had got the oxen. But my horse was good and my rifle ready, and I knew the Indians in these parts to be very timid, for they were generally seen in the attitude of flight. But what made me most anxious to find the oxen was prospect of our wanting them for beef. We had already killed four oxen and there were but thirteen remaining, including the lost ones, and the company was now killing an ox every two or three days. Having followed the trail about ten miles directly north, to my great delight I found the oxen. I was soon in motion for the company, but not being able to overtake them, was obliged to stop about dark. I passed the night rather uncomfortably, having neither fire nor blanket. I knew Indians to be plenty from numerous signs, and even where I slept the ground had been dug up that very day for roots. The plains here were almost barren; the hills were covered with cedar.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 19th.--This morning I met three men who were coming to bring me water, &amp;c.. Arrived at camp. They journeyed yesterday about twelve miles. Did not travel today.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 20th.--Passed along one of the highest mountains we had seen in our whole journey, seeking a place to scale it, as we wished to travel west instead of south, being convinced that we were already far enough south. At length, passed through and descended into a beautiful valley, inclining towards the west. All now felt confident that we were close to the headwaters of Mary's River, distance twenty-five miles. Two hunters slept out last night, the company taking a different direction from that which they expected.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 21st.--Hunters returned; many antelope were seen, and two or three killed. About 10 o'clock a. m., as we were coasting along the mountain in a westerly direction,, we came to some hot springs, which were to me a great curiosity. Within the circumference of a mile there were perhaps twenty springs, the most of which were extremely beautiful, the water being so transparent we could see the smallest thing twenty or thirty feet deep. The rocks which walled the springs, and the beautiful white sediment lodged among them, reflected the sun's rays in such a manner as to exhibit the most splendid combinations of colors--blue, green, red, &amp;c..--I have ever witnessed. The water in most of them was boiling hot. There was one, however, more beautiful than the rest; it really appeared more like the work of art than of nature. It was about four feet in diameter, round as a circle, and deeper than we could see--the cavity looked like a well cut in a solid rock, its walls being smooth and perpendicular. Just as I was viewing this curiosity, some hunters came up with some meat; we all partook, putting it into the spring, where it cooked perfectly done in ten minutes. This is no fish story!</P>
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046.sgm:<P>W. 22d.--This morning eighty or ninety Indians were seen coming full speed from the west; many had horses. One was sent about half a mile in advance of the rest--so we ought also to have done, but Captain B. was perfectly ignorant of Indian customs, and the whole band of savages were suffered to come directly up to us, and almost surround our camp, when Mr. B. Kelsey showed by forcible gestures they would be allowed to proceed no farther. The Indians were well armed with guns and bows and arrows. The only words I recollect of hearing Captain Bartleson say were, "Let them gratify their curiosity!!" The Indians were Shoshonees, but like other savages always take the advantage where they can. Besides, they were not a little acquainted with warfare, for they undoubtedly visited the buffalo country (having many robes), which requires much bravery to contend with the Blackfeet and Chiennes, who continually guard the buffalo in the region of the Rocky Mountains. They traveled as near us as they were allowed, till about noon, when they began to drop off, one by one, and at night there were but eight or ten remaining. Distance, about twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 23d.--We could see no termination of the valley, nor any signs of Mary's River. We therefore concluded that we were too far south, and passed over the mountains to the north, where we struck a small stream running towards the northwest. On this we camped and found plenty of grass; a few fish were caught, some of which were trout, which led us to the conclusion that this was a branch of Mary's River. Distance, eighteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 24th.--As we descended the stream, it was rapidly increased in size, and proved to be a branch of a larger stream. The country was desolate and barren, excepting immediately on the streams, where grew a few willows and cottonwoods; the hills in some places produced a few shrubby cedars. Traveled today, about twenty miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 25th.--The creek became perfectly dry and its banks rose to high, perpendicular precipices, so that there was no other road than the dry bed of the stream. Having come about fifteen miles, we encamped in a place affording a little grass and water, where we could see nothing but the sky. But the men who ascended the precipice to see what was the prospect ahead, said that in about a mile we would come to a valley. This was delightful news.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 26th.--The valley, seen yesterday evening, was about four or five miles in length and led into another difficult defile, though not so long as the one of yesterday, for we passed it into another valley. Distance eighteen miles. The stream continued to increase in size.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 27th.--Road very difficult all day. Course of the stream, west. Traveled about twenty miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 28th.--Traveled about twenty miles. Several Indians came to our camp this evening. No timber excepting willows; grass plenty.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 29th--Traveled about twenty miles. Course of the stream was west-northwest; according to the map, Mary's River ran west-northwest. Strong doubts were entertained about this being Mary's River. The men who got directions at Fort Hall were cautioned that if we got too far south we would get into the great sandy desert; if too far north, we would wander and starve to death on the waters of the Columbia, there being no possibility of getting through that way. We had now been six days on this stream, and our course had averaged considerably north of west.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 30th.--Our course today was about due north, eighteen miles.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>S. 2d.--Having traveled about five miles, we all beheld with delight the course of the river, changed to southwest. Here was excellent grass--it was three or four feet high, and stood thick like a meadow; it was a kind of bluegrass. The whole valley seemed to be swarming with Indians, but they were very timid. Their sable heads were seen in groups of fifteen or twenty, just above the tops of the grass, to catch a view of us passing by. Whenever we approached their huts, they beckoned us to go on. They were extremely filthy in their habits. Game was scarce, though the Indians looked fat and fine. They were Shoshonees.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 3d.--Traveled about twelve miles today, west.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 4th.--Distance, twenty-five miles southwest. Country dry, barren, sandy, except on the river.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 5th.--Today was very warm, and the oxen were not able to keep up with the horses. Traveled about thirty miles and stopped on the river about dark; grass plenty; willows. This going so fast was the fault of Captain B.; nothing kept him from going as fast as his mules could possibly travel. But his dependence was on the oxen for beef, for it was now all we had to live upon. W. 6th.--Company was out of meat and remained till the oxen came up. Several Indians came to camp, one of whom we hired to pilot us on.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 7th.--Capt. Bartleson, having got enough meat yesterday to last him a day or two, and supposing he would be able to reach the mountains of California in two or three days, rushed forward with his own mess, consisting of eight persons, at a rate entirely too fast for the oxen, leaving the rest to keep up if they could, and if they could not, it was all the same to him. The day was very warm. The Indian pilot remained with us. The river spread into a high, wide swamp, covered with high cane grass. Indians were numerous. Encamped by the swamp about dark, having come about twenty-five miles; water bad; no fuel, excepting weeds and dry cane grass which the Indians had cut in large heaps to procure sugar from the honey dew with which it was covered.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 8th.--The swamp was clouded with wild geese, ducks, &amp;c., which rose from its surface at the report of our guns. We traveled about six miles and stopped to kill a couple of oxen that were unable to travel.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 9th.--Crossed Mary's River where it led from the swamp into a lake beyond; our pilot led us south on the trail of Capt. B.; crossed a plain which is covered with water the greater part of the year; then came into sand hills, among which traveling was very laborious. Saw to the west of us a lake, presenting a sheet of water twenty or thirty miles in extent. Encamped by another swamp, in which the water was very nauseous. Distance, twenty-eight miles. Large numbers of Indians lived about this place, but few (fifty or sixty) visited our camp. Crossed Mary's River--it was here running east, leading from the lake which we saw to the west of us yesterday, into the swamp by which we stayed last night. Our course today was southwest. Distance, fifteen miles; encamped upon the lake.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 11th.--Left the lake this morning, going into the mountains on a southwest course. Today we left the trail of Captain B., and having traveled nineteen miles, arrived on a stream which flowed rapidly and afforded more water than Mary's river. We thought now, without doubt, that we were safe on the waters of the St. Joaquin (pronounced St. Wawkeen), according to Marsh's letter. Here grew willows, balm gilead, and a few cottonwoods. The course of the stream as far as we could see was south, but we know not how soon it might take a turn here in the mountains. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>T. 12th.--Traveled about four miles up stream, and encamped, understanding our Indian (having hired another pilot) that it would be a long day's travel to water after leaving the creek.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 13th.--Traveled about thirteen miles and only crossed a bend of the river; at this place it run due north. Day was hot. The creek had dwindled to half its first size.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 14th.--This morning we saw at a distance Captain B., with his seven men, coming in a direction toward us, but we made no halt; ascended the stream about twenty miles. The mountains continued to increase in height.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 15th.--Advanced up stream about twelve miles, and arrived at the base of very high mountains; the creek had become a small spring branch, and took its rise at no great distance in the mountains. But we saw plainly that it was impossible to progress farther without scaling the mountains, and our Indian guides said they knew no farther.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 16th.--This morning four or five men started to ascend several of the high peaks, to ascertain if it was possible to pass the mountains. Just as they were going to start, Capt. B. came up; he was in rather a hungry condition, and had been traveling several days without provision, excepting a few nuts which they had purchased from the Indians and which they had eaten on a very small allowance. We killed yesterday the best ox we had; this we shared freely with them. There were now but three oxen left, and they were very poor. But there was no time to lose. The explorers returned and reported that they thought it almost an impracticability to scale the mountains, which continued to increase in height as far as they could see. This evening the company was convened for the purpose of deciding by vote whether we should go back to the lake and take a path which we saw leading to the northwest, or undertake to climb the mountains. We had no more provisions than would last us to the lake. Nearly all were unanimous against turning back. I should have mentioned that our Indian pilots last night absconded. This stream I shall call Balm River; there being many Balm of Gilead trees upon it. (It is not laid down on any map.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 17th.--This morning we set forth into the rolling mountains; in many places it was so steep that all were obliged to take it on foot. Part of the day we traveled through valleys between peaks, where the way was quite level; passed down and up through forests of pine, fir, cedar, &amp;c.; many of the pines were twelve feet in diameter, and no less than 200 feet high. Encamped on the side of the mountain, so elevated that the ice remained all day in the streams; but we had not yet arrived at the summit. Killed another ox this evening. Made twelve miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>M. 18th.--Having ascended about half a mile, a frightful prospect opened before us--naked mountains whose summits still retained the snows, perhaps of a thousand years; for it had withstood the heat of a long, dry summer, and ceased to melt for the season. The winds roared, but in the deep, dark gulfs which yawned on every side, profound solitude seemed to reign. We wound along among the peaks in such a manner as to avoid most of the mountains which we had expected to climb; struck a small stream descending toward the west, on which we encamped, having come fifteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The rivulet descended with great rapidity, and it was the opinion of all that we were at least one mile perpendicular below the place where we began to descend. The stream had widened into a small valley. Cedars of uncommon size, pines the most thrifty, clothed the mountains. (One pine, as it was near our camp, was measured, though it was far from being the tallest; it was 206 feet high.) All were pleased to think we were crossing the mountains so fast. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>T. 19th.--Descending along the stream, we found several oak shrubs, which confirmed us in hope that we were on the waters of the Pacific. But the route became exceedingly difficult; the stream had swelled to a river; could not approach it, could only hear it roaring among the rocks. Having come about twelve miles, a horrid spectacle bid us stop; we obeyed, and encamped. Those who went to explore the route had not time to come to any conclusion where we could pass. We had descended rapidly all day. The mountains were, still mantled with forests of towering pines. The roaring winds, and the hollow murmuring of the dashing waters conveyed in the darkness of the night the most solemn and impressive ideas of solitude. To a person fond of a retired life, this, thought I, would be a perfect terrestrial Paradise, but it was not so with us; when we knew that winter was at hand, and that Capt. Walker (the mountaineer) had been lost in these very mountains twenty-two days before he could extricate himself.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 20th.--Men went in different directions to see if there was any possibility of extricating ourselves from this place without going back. They returned and reported it was utterly impossible to go down the creek. One young man was so confident that he could pass along the creek with his horse that he started alone, in spite of many persuasions to the contrary. Capt. B. also being tired of waiting for the explorers to return, started down the stream, which so jaded his animals that he was obliged to wait all day to rest them before he was able to retrace his steps. In the meantime the rest of the company, suffering for water, were obliged to travel. We proceeded directly north up the mountains about four miles; found a little grass and water. Here we killed one of the two oxen.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 21st.--Our route today was much better than expected, though in any other place than the mountains it would be considered horrible. Capt. B., with his seven or eight, overtook us, but we heard nothing of J. Johns. Distance, about ten miles. Could see no prospect of a termination of the mountains!</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 22d.--Descended towards the river about fifteen miles; had a tolerable road; arrived within a mile of the river--could not approach nearer. Here was considerable oak, some of which was evergreen and thought to be live oak. Three Indians came to camp. Killed the last ox. Let this speak for our situation and future prospects!</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 23d.--Having no more meat than would last us three days, it was necessary to use all possible exertions to kill game, which was exceedingly scarce. For this purpose I started alone, very early in the morning, to keep some distance before the company, who had concluded to continue as near as possible to the creek on the north side. I went about four miles, met the Indian who came to us last night, obtained a little provisions made of acorns, got an Indian boy to pilot me to his house. He took me down the most rugged path in all nature; arrived on the banks of a river at least three-fourths of a mile perpendicular from where I started with him; found no more provision; continued down the river. Oak in abundance, buckeye, and kind of maple. The mountains which walled in the stream were so steep that it was with great difficulty I scaled them--having in one place come within an inch of falling from a craggy cliff down a precipice nearly a fourth of a mile perpendicular. Four long hours I labored before I reached the summit; proceeded directly to intersect the trail of the company. Mountains covered with the largest and tallest pines, firs, &amp;c., thicks copses of hazel, &amp;c.. Traveled till dark over the hills, dales, crags, rocks, &amp;c. found no trail; lay down and slept.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 24th.--Concluded the company had gone north. I traveled east, found no trail; traveled south, came to the place where I left the company yesterday morning, having  made a long quadrangle in the mountains, eight by ten miles; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>M. 25th.--Went about six miles and found it was impossible to proceed. Went back about two miles and encamped; dug holes in the ground to deposit such things as we could dispense with; did not do it, discovering the Indians were watching us. Among them was the old, rascally pilot. White oak in abundance.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 26th.--Went south about three miles and encamped in a deep ravine. It was urged by some that we should kill our horses and mules, dry what meat we could carry and start on foot to find a way out of the mountains.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 27th.--It commenced raining about 1 o'clock this morning and continued till noon. Threw away all our old clothes to lighten our packs, fearing the rain would make the mountains so slippery as to render it impossible to travel. I have since learned that the Indians in the mountains here prefer the meat of horses to cattle, and here in these gloomy corners of the mountains they had been accustomed to bring stolen horses and eat them. Here and there were strewed the bones of horses; so the design of the veteran Indian pilot is apparent in leading us into the rugged part of creation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>As we left this place, one of the men, G. Cook, remained concealed to see if the old pilot was among the Indians, who always rushed in as soon as we left our encampments to pick up such things as were left. The old gentleman was at the head of this band, and as he had undoubtedly led us into this place to perish, his crime merited death; a rifle ball laid him dead in his tracks. We proceeded south about six miles. As we ascended out of the ravine, we discovered the high mountains we had passed were covered with new snow for more than a half mile down their summits.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 28th.--Surely no horses nor mules with less experience than ours could have descended the difficult steeps and defiles which we encountered in this day's journey. Even as it was, several horses and mules fell from the mountain's side and, rolling like huge stones, landed at the foot of the precipices. The mountains began to grow obtuse, but we could see no prospect of their termination. We ate the last of our beef this evening and killed a mule to finish our supper. Distance six miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>F. 29th.--Last night the Indians stole a couple of our horses. About noon we passed along by several huts, but they were deserted as soon as we came in sight, the Indians running in great consternation into the woods. At one place the bones of a horse were roasting on a fire; they were undoubtedly the bones of the horses we had lost. Traveled no less than nine miles today. The night was very cool, and had a heavy frost. Although our road was tolerably level today, yet we could see no termination to the mountains, and one much higher than the others terminated our view. Mr. Hopper, our best and most experienced hunter, observed that "If California lies beyond those mountains we shall never be able to reach it." Most of the company were on foot, in consequence of horses giving out and being stolen by the Indians, but many were much fatigued and weak for the want of sufficient provision; others, however, stood it very well. Some had appetites so craving that they ate the meat of most of the mule raw, as soon as it was killed; some ate it half-roasted, dripping with blood.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>S. 30th.--We had gone about three miles this morning, when lo! to our great delight we beheld a wide valley! This we had entirely overlooked between us and the high mountain which terminated our view yesterday. Rivers evidently meandered through it, for timber was seen in long extended lines as far as the eye could reach. But we were unable to reach it today, and encamped in the plains. Here grew a few white oaks. Traveled today about twenty miles. Saw many tracks of elk. The valley was wonderfully parched with heat, and had been stripped of its vegetation by fire. Wild fowls, geese, &amp;c., were dying in multitudes.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 31st.--Bore off in a northwesterly direction to the nearest timber. Day was warm, plain dry and dusty; reached timber, which was white oak (very low and shrubby), and finally, the river which we had left in the mountains. Joyful sight to us poor, famished wretches! Hundreds of antelope in view! Elk tracks, thousands! Killed two antelopes and some wild fowls. The valley of the river was very fertile, and the young, tender grass covered it like a field of wheat in May. Not a weed was to be seen, and the land was as mellow and free from weeds as land could be made by plowing it twenty times in the United States. Distance today, twenty miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Nov., M. 1st.--The company tarried to kill game; an abundance of wild fowl and thirteen deer and antelopes were brought in. My breakfast this morning formed a striking contrast with that of yesterday, which was the lights of a wolf.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 2d.--Capt. Bartleson, with his seven, remained to take care of the meat he had killed, while the rest of the company went on. We passed some beautiful grapes, sweet and pleasant. The land decreased in fertility as we descended the stream. Behold! this morning, Jones, who left the camp to hunt on the 23d ult., came to the camp. They (he and Kelsey) had arrived in the plains several days before us, and found an Indian, who conducted them to Marsh's house, but he brought bad news. He said there had been no rain in California for eighteen months, and that the consequence was there was little breadstuff in the country. Beef, however, was abundant and of the best quality. Traveled today, sixteen miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 3d.--We waited till Capt. B. came up, and all started for Marsh's about noon; arrived at the St. Joaquin and crossed it. Distance, thirteen miles. Found an abundance of grass here. The timber was white oak, several kinds of evergreen oaks, and willows; the river about 100 yards in width.</P>
046.sgm:<P>T. 4th.--Left the river in good season, and departing gradually from its timber, came into large marshes of bulrushes. We saw large herds of elk and wild horses grazing upon the plain. The earth was in many places strongly impregnated with salt. Came into hills; here were a few scattering oaks; land appeared various, in some places black, some light clay color, and in others mulatto (between black and white), sometimes inclining to a red soil; but it was all parched with heat. Finally we arrived at Marsh's house, which is built of unburned bricks, small, and has no fireplace, wanting a floor and covered with bulrushes. In fact, it was not what I expected to find. A hog was killed for the company. We had nothing else but beef; the latter was used as bread, the former as meat. Therefore, I will say we had bread and meat for dinner. Several of our company were old acquaintances of Marsh in Missouri, and therefore much time was passed in talking about old times, the incidents of our late journey, and our future prospects. All encamped about the house, tolerably well pleased with the appearance of Dr. Marsh, but much disappointed in regard to his situation, for among all his shrubby white oaks there was not one tall enough to make a rail-cut. No other timber in sight, excepting a few cottonwoods and willows.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>F. 5th.--Company remained at Marsh's getting inforamtion respecting the country.</P>
046.sgm:<P>S. 6th.--Fifteen of the company started for a Spanish town, called the Pueblo of St. Joseph, (which is situated about four miles from Marsh's), to seek employment.</P>
046.sgm:<P>OBSERVATIONS ABOUT THE COUNTRY, &amp;c..</P>
046.sgm:<P>You will, undoubtedly, expect me to come out in plain language, either for or against the country; but this I cannot do, not having been able to see as much of it as I intended before I wrote to you. I have, however, been diligent in making inquiries of men who are residents in the country. This will, in some measure, answer the place of experience.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The whole of my travels in California I will now briefly relate; and then make a recapitulation, describing the country, &amp;c..</P>
046.sgm:<P>W. 10th.--I went to R. Livermore's, which is about twenty miles from Marsh's, nearly west; he has a Spanish wife and is surrounded by five or six Spanish families.</P>
046.sgm:<P>On the 11th.--I returned to Marsh's. This evening, M. Nye, of Weston, Mo., returned from the Mission of St. Joseph, bringing the intelligence that part of those who started down to the Pueblo were detained at the Mission, and that the others were sent for, in consequence of not bringing passports from the States. He likewise brought a letter from the Spanish commander-in-chief of Upper California, to Marsh, requesting him to come, in all possible haste, and answer or rather explain the intentions of the company in coming to California. News had just arrived by the papers of the United States, via Mexico--it was the remarks of some foolish editor--that the United States would have California, and if they could not get it on peaceable terms, they would take it by force. This created considerable excitement among the suspicious Spaniards. All, however, obtained passports from the General, till they should be able to procure them from the Governor at Monterey. On the 15th, I started for the Mission of St. Joseph, and arrived there on the 16th, returned to Marsh's on the 18th.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Started for Capt. Sutter's on the 21st, and arrived there on the 28th. This place is situated nearly due north of Marsh's, on the Sacramento River, and about seventy-five miles. We were received by Capt. Sutter with great kindness, and found there J. John, who had left us in the mountains on the 20th of last month, October. He arrived one day sooner at this place than we did at Marsh's. Captain Sutter, on hearing of the company, immediately sent in search of us, loading two mules with flour and sugar for our comfort. I remained with Capt. Sutter about five weeks, during which time I was principally employed in studying the Spanish language. I made no travel here, except about fifteen miles up the American Fork, a considerable branch of the Sacramento River. On the 27th of December, Mr. Flugge, one of our company who went to Oregon, arrived at Capt. Sutter's--he came with the Trapping company from Fort Van Couver, on the Columbia--and brought the intelligence that the families had safely landed in the Columbia, and were pleased with the country; that an express came, bringing the news from Green River that Trapping and one of his men were killed by the Chienne Indians, two or three days after we had left that place.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The journey from Oregon to this place by land cannot be performed in less than six or eight weeks with horses. (Remark.--Capt. Sutter has bought out the whole Russian settlement, consisting of about 2000 head of cattle, 600 horses, and 1000 sheep, besides dry property. All the Russians, owing to their dissatisfaction of some proceedings of this Government, relative to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>On the 8th of January, 1842, I left Capt Sutter's, in his employ, for the Russian settlement. I descended the Sacramento in a launch of thirty tons, into the Bay of St. Francisco. I landed at Sousalita (pronounced Sow-sa-le-ta), on the north side of the bay, in full view of the vessels lying at anchor at Port St. Francisco. I here took it by land and in three days arrived at this place, which is about six miles from Bodaga, the Russian port, and sixty miles north of Port St. Francisco.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Since my arrival here, I have made two trips to Ross, which is about thirty miles north of this place, on the Pacific; most of the Russians resided at this place. And once I have been to Sousalita, through the Mission of San Rafael. These are all my travels in California. It will be necessary for me to describe Marsh's house, as I have made it rather a starting place. It is about fifty miles from Port St Francisco, six or seven miles south of the Sacramento River, fifteen miles from the bay of St. Francisco, and fifteen or twenty miles below the mouth of the St. Joaquin River, and is among a few scattering oaks overlooked by a high mountain peak on the west--which is a termination of that chain of mountains which terminated our view on the 29th of October last. The high California mountains are in full view, and the country which intervenes between them and the ocean to on an average 100 miles wide. Most of the land in these parts is unfit for cultivation, but well adapted to grazing; the reason of this is because it is too wet in winter and too dry in summer. In many places the soil is black, and has every appearance of being as fertile as any land I ever saw; but I am informed this is never sown or planted, in consequence of its drying too much in summer and cracking open. It may be considered a prairie country, for the plains are destitute of timber--streams are frequent and always skirted by timber. Every kind of timber which I have seen, you will see in the following list: Oak, cottonwood, willow, ash, black walnut, box elder, alder, buckeye, redwood, pine, fir, sycamore, madrone (Spanish name), laurel, cedar, maple, hazel bushes, and whortle berries (huckle berries). Here are many other shrubs, but I don't know their names.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Oak.--Here are many kinds of oak, but the only kind which I remember to have seen in the United States resembling the oak of this, to the white oak; this grows on almost every stream, frequently among the mountains, sometimes in the middle of plains. The other kinds of oak are principally evergreen, as they retain their leaves all the year. I have been told by many that it answers every purpose that the oak does in the United States, excepting for rails and building, it being generally too shrubby. It grows very large in places; I have seen trees ten or twelve feet in diameter.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Cottonwood--This grows neither large nor tall, and only on streams or in low places. On the Sacramento and its branches are more or less of it.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Willows.--These grow on every stream, both great and small, and are often so densely interwoven along banks of rivers that a bird can't fly through them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Ash.--This is very scarce. It is the kind called white ash, but is so low that it is not valuable for building; it to an excellent substitute for hickory, making axe helves, gun sticks, &amp;c..</P>
046.sgm:<P>Black Walnut--I am not aware that this grows in any other place than on the Sacramento river; even here confined to a few miles; grows shrubby.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Box Elder.--An abundance on every stream.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Alder.--This is an excellent substitute for hickory: it is also found in abundance. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>Buckeye--This grows very small, always branching from the ground; it bears a larger nut than the buckeye of the United States.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Redwood.--This is abundant in almost every mountain. It is a kind of hemlock or cedar, found on both sides of the St. Francisco Bay; sometimes grows in valleys. It is the most important timber in California, generally 150 feet high; but I have seen many 200 feet high and not less than fifteen feet in diameter. It splits the easiest of any timber I ever saw; it is very durable; houses, doors, &amp;c., are made of it.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fir.--This generally grows with the redwood, but not so useful.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sycamore--Grows in plenty along the Sacramento river; principally used for canoes, but not hollow, as in the United States.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Pine.--This is abundant in the mountains, but is difficult to obtain; what kind it is I am unable to say.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Madrone--Grows as abundant as the oak. It is one of the most beautiful trees which I have ever seen; it is an evergreen, retaining a bright foliage, but that which renders it so pleasing to the color of the bark of all its branches--it is smooth like the sycamore, and of a lively scarlet color; is a most excellent fire wood, and I have been informed by creditable gentlemen that it is an elegant substitute for mahogany.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Laurel--Another beautiful evergreen, and on the north side of the bay, abundant; the largest are two feet in diameter, tough wood. I have not learned its uses.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Cedar.--Scarce here, but abundant in the mountains.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Maple.--Plenty in some places; different from any I have heretofore seen, but curly sometimes; will answer every purpose maple does in the United States, but for sugar--too warm here.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Hazel bushes grow on almost every stream, and in the mountains among the redwood; produce nuts, as in Missouri, and being tough, make excellent withes.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Whortle berries abundant on the hills.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I will here observe that there is no live oak in California, but presume that there is timber to answer all purposes for ship building.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Grass.--The grass is not like that of the prairies of the United States; it is of a finer and better quality. It ceases to grow about the first of July, in consequence of the heat, and dries; the cattle, however, eat it, and become remarkably fat. It begins to grow again in October or November, when the rainy season sets in, and continues to grow all winter. When I went to Ross, the Russian settlement, the grass all along the Pacific (on the 3d of February) was at least a foot high, green, and growing finely.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mustard grows in abundance.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Here, on this side of the Bay, is an abundance of red and white clover growing with the grass.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Here are also innumerable quantities of wild oats, which I am told grow nearly all over California, and grow as thick an they can stand, producing oats of an excellent quality; but as neither cattle nor horses are ever fed here, they are never harvested.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wheat.--On the south side of the Bay of St. Francisco, the soil, climate, &amp;c., are as well adapted to raising wheat an in any part of the world. I have been credibly informed that it yields from 70 to 115 fold; wheat will always come up the second year and produce more than half as much as it did the first. This is because of its scattering on the ground while harvesting. Wheat is sown in December, January and February; harvested in June and first of July. North side of the bay will not yield more than 15 or 20 fold.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Corn does not grow well in any part of California; it, however, thrives <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Potatoes--Irish potatoes grow well and are of a good quality; should be planted in April.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sweet potatoes have never been tried.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Beans are produced abundantly, likewise peas. Peas are planted in gardens about the 10th of March and are ripe about the last of May.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Barley yields well, and is sown at the time of wheat.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Onions, cabbages, parsnips, beets, turnips, grow well.</P>
046.sgm:<P>CLIMATE.</P>
046.sgm:<P>First, I will commence with the rainy season, as it was about the beginning of this part of the year that I arrived in California. October is said to be a doubtful month in regard to the commencement of the rainy season. It, however, sets in about the 10th of November. The rains are never very cold, and there are many warm and beautiful showers, like those of summer in the United States. Judge from the following diary of the weather which I have regularly attended to since coming here:</P>
046.sgm:<P>Nov. 4th, 1901.--Day warm and<HSEP>3d.--Mild, but somewhat hazy. pleasant; evening cool.<HSEP>4th.--A little rain. 5th day.--Warm.<HSEP>5th.--Rained nearly all day. 6th day.--Bright and clear; warm.   6th.--Inclined to be fair. 7th day.--Bright and clear; warm.   7th.--Fair and mild. 8th day.--Bright and clear; warm.   8th.--Drizzling rain. 9th day.--Bright and clear; warm.   9th.--Rained half the day. 10th day.--Bright and clear; warm.  10th.--Rained half the day. 11th day.--Bright and clear; warm.  11th.--Fine day. 12th day.--Bright and clear; cool.  12th.--Rained and blew all day. 13th day.--Bright and clear; warm.  13th.--Tolerably fair. 14th day.--Mild and pleasant.<HSEP>14th.--Same. 15th day.--Pleasant; warm and<HSEP>15th.--Drizzly all day. rainy.<HSEP>16th.--Forenoon rainy; afternoon 16th.--Rain today; evening cool.    cloudy. 17th.--Warm and rainy.<HSEP>17th.--Fair; sun shone bright. 18th.--Showery today; morning<HSEP>18th.--Light showers. clear.<HSEP><HSEP>19th.--Fine day; mild evening, 19th.--Cloudy all day.<HSEP>20th.--Fine day: mild evening. 20th.--Pleasant day; evening cool.  21st.--Pleasant day. 21st.--Morning cool; day cool, with 22d.--Pleasant weather. northwest breeze; rainy evening  23d.--Same. 22d.--Warm showers.<HSEP>24th.--Same. 23d.--A few showers.<HSEP> 25th.--Light showers of rain. 24th.--Cloudy; evening cool, with   26th.--Fair and pleasant. frost.<HSEP>27th.--Same. 25th.--Cloudy, without frost.<HSEP>28th.--Same. 26th.--Warm and clear.<HSEP>29th.--Inclined to be cool. 27th.--Warm, cloudy.<HSEP> 30th.--Rainy. 28th.--Clear though somewhat cool.  31st.--Fair day. 29th.--Day cloudy and moderate.     Jan. 1st.--Same. 30th.--Day cloudy and moderate.<HSEP> 2d.--Same. Dec. 1st.--Clear and warm.<HSEP>3d.--Same.  2d.--Mild and warm.<HSEP>4th.--Same.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:5th.--Fair, clear weather.<HSEP> 19th.--Same. 6th.--Light showers.<HSEP>20th.--Same. 8th--Cloudy, no rain; warm.<HSEP>21st--Light showers. 9th.--Cloudy, no rain; warm.<HSEP> 22d.--Rained nearly all day. 10th.--Cloudy, no rain; warm.<HSEP>23d.--Fair weather. 11th.--Cloudy; heavy frost in<HSEP>24th.--Same. morning.<HSEP>25th.--Same. 12th.--Inclined to be fair.<HSEP>  26th.--Rainy. 13th.--Rainy, warm showers.<HSEP>27th.--Cloudy and cool. 14th.--Pleasant weather.<HSEP>28th.--Fine and pleasant. 15th.--Pleasant weather.<HSEP>March 1st.--Fair. 16th--Rain half the day.<HSEP>2d.--Same. 17th.--Fair weather.<HSEP>3d.--Cool and cloudy. 18th.--Fair weather.<HSEP> 4th.--Same. 19th.--Fair weather.<HSEP>5th.--Bright, clear and warm. 20th.--Cool.<HSEP>  6th.--Same. 21st.-Cloudy.<HSEP> 7th.--Rainy. 22d.--Fine and clear.<HSEP>8th.--This morning, snowed 5 minutes. 23d.--Fine and clear. 24th.--Fine and clear.<HSEP>9th.--Cool. 25th.--Fine and clear.<HSEP>10th.--Fine and warm. 26th.--Variable and rainy.<HSEP>11th.--Same. 27th.--Fine weather.<HSEP>12th.--Same. 28th.--Cloudy weather.<HSEP><HSEP>13th.--Same. 29th.--Variable and rainy.<HSEP>14th.--Same. 30th.--Cloudy and cool.<HSEP>15th.--Same. 31st.--Rainy and warm.<HSEP> 16th.--Cloudy. Feb. 1st.--Fine weather.<HSEP>17th.--Inclined to rain. 2d.--Same.<HSEP>18th.--Fine. 3d.--Same.<HSEP>      19th.--Showery. 4th.--Rainy.<HSEP> 20th.--Rainy. 5th.--Bright and clear.<HSEP>21st.--Rainy and cool. 6th.--Same.<HSEP> 22d.--Rainy and cool. 7th.--Same.<HSEP>23d.--Morning, rain; evening, fair. 8th.--Same.<HSEP>24th.--Cloudy. 9th.--Same.<HSEP>25th.--Fine. 10th.--Same.<HSEP>26th.--Rainy in afternoon. 11th.--Rainy.<HSEP>27th.--Cloudy and rainy. 12th.--Fine and warm.<HSEP>28th.--Fair. 13th.--Same.<HSEP>29th.--Same. 14th.--Same.<HSEP> 30th.--Same. 15th.--Same.<HSEP>31st.--Rainy. 16th--Rainy.<HSEP>April 1st.--Fine. 17th.--Fair and pleasant.<HSEP>2d.--Very fine. Strawberries will 18th.--Same.<HSEP> be ripe in a few days.</P>
046.sgm:<P>(Remark--When it is rainy, the wind is always from the south; and when fair, from the west-northwest. Here are many bright, frosty mornings, which freeze the ground sometimes an inch deep. I have seen the ice half an inch thick, but seldom thicker than a pane of glass. There are but few mornings that we have frost; it, however, freezes in day time.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>SUMMER.</P>
046.sgm:<P>From March, the rainy season gradually decreases, ceases entirely about the last of May. During the summer months, heat is intense, so that it is customary for laborers to be unemployed from 10 a. m. till 4 p. m.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>Certain situations are much protected from heat by northwest breezes, which always prevail in summer.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When the wind from the sea is blowing in the morning, it continues till 10 o'clock a. m.; heat then becomes intense, but it generally begins about 3 or 4 in the afternoon. The mountains frequently preclude the sea breeze from many situations, so there is a great difference in places but a few miles apart. It seldom thunders or lightnings here. I will here remark that there is more rain on the north side of St. Francisco bay than on the south; why this is so I am unable to explain. It is in California an it is in the Rocky Mountains--and I believe in all mountains or mountainous countries--very warm during the day and cool at night--so cool that there are frosts sometimes even as late as July. The nights are not proportionately cold in winter; in fact, many of them are quite warm.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The cool nights, together with the dryness of the summer, are undoubtedly the reason why corn, and many other things, do not come to so great perfection here as in many other parts of the world. Watermelons and pumpkins are produced here in abundance, though I fear not so well as in Missouri; they are said not to be so sweet as in the United States, but they last longer, frequently to December, up in June. Strawberries are found in many places in abundance, large and delicious, and are ripe about the middle of April.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Falling of the Leaves.--This is very different in California from what it is in the United States; there they become yellow by frosts, &amp;c., and hasten down in showers, so that in a week or two the whole vegetable world is stript of its foliage. But here, most of the trees are evergreens, and those that are not gradually resign their verdure till they are quite naked about the first of January.</P>
046.sgm:<P>All concur in pronouncing the country good for fruit, apples, &amp;c. I presume it is so. I went to Ross, (this is the most northern settlement in California,) on the 25th of January. I saw there a small but thrifty orchard, consisting of apple, peach, pear, cherry and quince trees. The peach trees had not shed their leaves, and several were in blossom; the quince and more than half the apple trees were as green as in summer. There were roses, marygolds, and several kinds of garden flowers in full bloom. I again visited this place on the 3d of February; saw wild plants in bloom, such as the violet, &amp;c. apple and peach trees beautifully arrayed in blossoms. What time apples are ripe, I cannot say, but presume in June or July.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Pear trees, I am informed, come to great perfection. Fig trees, likewise, are found in almost every orchard and grow well.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The wine grape is cultivated and grows to great perfection.</P>
046.sgm:<P>You have undoubtedly heard that here are English and American settlements in California; but it is not the case. There are from three to 600 foreigners here, principally English and American, but they do not live in settlements by themselves; they are scattered throughout the whole Spanish population, and most of them have Spanish wives; and in fine they live in every respect like the Spaniards. I know of but two American families here--one, the family of Mr. Kelsey, who came with us, and the other. Mr. Walker, who came here from Jackson county, Mo., by way of Oregon; he is a brother to Capt. Walker, the mountaineer: he likes California better than Oregon. There are many English and American traders on the coast.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The population of the Spaniards probably will not exceed 5000.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is a proverb here (and, I find, a pretty true one) that a Spaniard will not do anything which he cannot do on horseback; he does not work on an average one month in the year; he labors about a week, when he sows his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>I know a few Spaniards who are industrious and enterprising. They have become immensely rich--this likewise is the case with the foreigners who have used the least industry. Wealth here principally consist in horses, cattle, and mules.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fences are in many places made with little trouble. Capt. Sutter has about 300 acres under fence; his fences are made of small, round sticks, inserted endwise into the ground and lashed with cowhide. But where the redwood grows, the fences are made of rails, the same as in the States.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wheat, corn and potatoes are seldom surrounded by a fence; they grow out in the plains and are guarded from the cattle and horses by the Indians, who are stationed in their huts near the fields.</P>
046.sgm:<P>You can employ any number of Indians by giving them a lump of beef every week, and paying them about one dollar for the same time. Cattle are so wild, however, as to keep some distance from houses. Since my residence in the country I have become sick of the manner of fencing or protecting grain, etc., from cattle, as done by the Spaniards. To farm well, you must make a fence, as it is in the United States.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The land on the north side of the bay is beautifully diversified with hills and valleys. The farms are chosen according to circumstances among the hills, and are very scattering. Some hills are timbered, some are not, affording excellent pasturage for cattle, horses, etc. The timber grows generally on creeks and ravines on the sides of the mountains south and east of the bay.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Sacramento spreads into a wide valley or plain, through which run most of its tributaries, the St. Joaquin, etc. These plains are now the province of thousands of elk, antelope, deer, wild horses, etc.; they might easily be changed to raising of thousands of fine cattle.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Tule Marshes.--Tule is a name given by the Spaniards to a kind of bulrush. They grow very large, sometimes an inch in diameter, and occupy large portions of the valley of the Sacramento. They are called marshes, because they grow on the lowest ground and are covered in the rainy season with water, which continues till evaporated by heat of summer. These are the haunts of incalculable thousands of wild geese, ducks, brants, cranes, pelicans, etc., etc.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Situations on the coast are not so pleasant as I expected, on account of the stiff northwest breezes of summer, and the fogs that rise from the ocean in the morning, obscuring everything till sometimes near 12 o'clock. The trees along the coast are governed by the northwesters, and lean to the sotuheast.</P>
046.sgm:<P>One Spanish league (this is about 6 &frac12; sections or square miles) is considered a farm. This I believe is the smallest grant which the Spanish Government gives, and eleven leagues the largest; the grantee is allowed to take it in the shape of the valley or tillable land, and not include mountains which bound the valleys.</P>
046.sgm:<P>To obtain a grant, you must become a citizen (which requires a year's residence), and become a member of the Catholic Church. (See another remark relative to this.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>Houses are most universally built of unburnt bricks; this is the Spanish mode. They could just as well make and burn brick here as anywhere, and build good houses.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sheep.--In some places there are a great many (sheep); on the farm of Livermore I saw 6000. Capt. Sutter has 1000. They are small, and the wool is rather coarse.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Hogs.--There are a few hogs here, but they can be raised here as well as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Cattle.--Of all places in the world, it appears to me that none can be better adapted to the raising of cattle than California. The cattle here are very large, and a person who has a thousand is scarcely noticed as regards stock.</P>
046.sgm:<P>R. Livermore and the Spaniard adjoining haev about 9000 head. I. Reed (an Irishman) has 2000. Valleo (pronounced Vag-ya-ho) is the most wealthy Spaniard in the country, and has 12,000 head. Capt Sutter has 2000 head. There is no regular price for cattle, but it is about four dollars per head. I have been assured any quantity might be bought for $2 per head; yet such opportunities I do not think common. A few years ago cattle could be bought for $1 per head; times have changed. Hides are worth anywhere on the coast, $2; tallow, $6 per hundred pounds. Many persons own from 1000 to 6000, but it is unnecessary to insert names here.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Horses.--These are next in number of cattle. They are not in general large, but they answer every purpose. The price is various; I have known good horses to sell from $8 to $30. Mares are never worked or rode; they are worth from $3 to $5. Capt. Sutter has about 600 head of horses; Valleo has from 2000 to 3000; a hundred persons might be mentioned who have from 300 to 800. Horses here are not subject to diseases.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mules.--These are large and fine, and are worth, before they can be rode, about $10 per head, after being broke to the saddle, $15. Jacks worth from $100 to $200.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Oxen.--The Spaniards work oxen by lashing a straight stick to the horns. Good, tame, working oxen are worth about $25. It is actually more work to haul the clumsy, awkward, large, unhandy carts of the Spaniards than an American wagon with a cord of wood.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Butter and Cheese.--But little butter and cheese made in this country: pains not being taken to milk the cows. Butter is worth 50 cents per pound. What a chance there is in this line of business for industrious Americans. No doubt sale for any quantity could be made to ships, but the price would become somewhat less.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Missions.--Missions are nearly all broken up; but few pretend to preach or teach, and those that still remain are fast declining. Whether the missions have ever been the means of doing the Indians much good, I cannot say; but I do not like this manner of civilizing the Indians, who still live in filth and dirt, in mud houses without floors or fireplaces. Whenever an offense is committed, like stealing, they are plunged into the prison houses, laden with irons, and made to toll a bell every minute of the night; this was the case at St. Joseph when I was there, on the 16th of November last.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Missions that have ceased their labors have distributed the cattle and horses among the Indians, after reserving a large share for the priests, etc.; and artful men have taken advantage of the times and purchased the cattle and horses from the Indians for a small quantity of ardent spirits or some trifling articles, leaving them destitute. All missions were once very rich in cattle. etc., but they are now very much reduced. There are about twenty-two missions in Upper California. The mission of San Gubler had 100,000 head of cattle, that of St. Joseph 18,000, that of St. Clara 30,000; many others had intermediate numbers. These missions likewise had horses, sheep, etc., in proportion. There is now a bishop in Monterey, lately arrived from Mexico, come to revive the missions; but the people all objected to his remaining in the country. The consequence would be, perhaps, that the people would have to pay tithes. (August, 1842.--The bishop has not yet arrived on this side of the bay.) </P>
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046.sgm:<P>Honey Bee.--I have been informed that there is a kind of honey bee in this country which makes honey; but they are not like the honey bee of the States, and are neither plenty nor common. If bees were brought to this country, I think they would do well.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Health.--The country is acknowledged by all to be extremely healthy; there is no disease common to the country; the fever and ague are seldom known. I knew a man to have several chills, but he had been intoxicated several days in succession. The Indians who did so several years ago were (it is the opinion of all of whom I inquired) afflicted with the smallpox. They use on all occasions, both in health and in sickness, excessive sweatings; the manner of doing it is by heating a large house, which they build and cover like a cockpit, very hot, and lie in it until they are so weak they can hardly stand, and then coming out, entirely naked, throw themselves upon the cold, damp ground, or into the water. This occurs daily, under my own observation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Water.--There is an abundance of springs here; the water, I believe, is universally freestone water. Every family is supplied with either a spring or a running stream. There is limestone in the country, but not to say plenty; there is enough, I presume, including the shells of the seashore, to supply every want.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Trees begin to unfold their leaves about the 1st of March, but do not all entirely unfold their leaves till the middle of May. Strawberries ripe about the 1st of June.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mills.--Mills go by horse power; in fact, I know of but one grist and one saw mill in California. The streams, I believe, in general are not very suitable for mills, there not being sufficient power near the sea, and in winter the water rises so high that the dams would be swept away. But good millwrights, no doubt, would succeed in establishing mills on most of the streams. The Sacramento river is the most beautiful river I ever saw for steamboat navigation. It has several streams which would be navigable in high water.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Dews on the coast are very heavy, but they extend but a few miles back into the country. Since I wrote relative to the fog on the seashore, I have been told that from St. Francisco south there is but little fog.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Lumber is generally sawed by hand; it is worth from $40 to $50 per thousand feet, redwood.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fish.--There is a great abundance of salmon in every stream, particularly in the spring of the year, when they are very fat. The Sacramento and its branches contain an abundance.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Whales likewise I see almost daily spouting along the coast. There are other fish which come up from the ocean.</P>
046.sgm:<P>There are few snakes here--the rattlesnake and corral; the others are common.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Bears are plenty--they are the grizzly kind, but are not so tenacious of life as those of the Rocky Mountains. They are very large.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The animals along the coast are the sea lion, sea elephant, seals, etc. There are an abundance of prairie wolves, wolves of another kind also; very large. An animal is found here called by the Spaniards the lion, but I think it to the real panther. It frequently kills horses; it latterly killed two on the place I have charge of.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Crows, buzzards and vultures are large and numerous.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mosquitoes are not troublesome, excepting on the Bay of St. Francisco, and in the neighborhood of marshes. Horse flies are not numerous or bad.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Here grows a root in great abundance which answers every purpose of soap to wash with.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The wages of white men are about $25 per month; mechanics get about $3 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Goods are very high, owing to the high duty on them. Factory cloth is 50 cents per yard; blankets, from $5 to $10; shirts are worth $3; sugar, from 15 to 30 cents; tea, $2; coffee, 50 cents. Goods are cheaper in Oregon than in the Western States; so they would be here but for cause mentioned above. Shoes are worth from $3 to $5; boots, $10; other things in proportion.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wheat is worth $1 per bushel; corn, I can't say.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The ploughs with which the Spaniards work are crude and awkward.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Guns are very high; a good, first-rate rifle is worth from $75 to $100. One of our company sold a rifle for thirty head of cattle. Guns worth $15 in the States are worth $50 here.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is seldom a Spaniard makes a charge against travelers for his hospitality; they are kind in this respect. But I can't say how much they p----r.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The number of civilized Indians in California is about 15,000.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I have learned but little concerning the mines of the country. There is a silver mine near Monterey, but it has not been worked; how extensive it is, I cannot say.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The dexterity with which the Spaniards use the lasso is surprising; in fact, I doubt if their horsemanship is surpassed by the Cossacks of Tartary. It is a common thing for them to take up things from the ground, going upon a full run with their horses; they will pick up a dollar in this way. They frequently encounter a bear on the plain in this way with their lassos, and two holding him in opposite directions with ropes fastened to the pommels of their saddles. I was informed that two young boys encountered a large buck elk in the plains, and having no saddles, fastened the ropes around the horses' necks and actually dragged the huge animal into the settlements alive.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I will here remark that all who would come to this country must bring passports from the Governors of their resident States.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Whether persons of any other denomination than Catholic would, when piously disposed, be interrupted by the law, I can't say, but think not.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The best part of California, I am told, lies high up on the Sacramento. The country south and east of Marsh's is unoccupied; likewise north, excepting Capt. Sutter's grant of eleven leagues, as Capt. Sutter, in order to fulfill his contract with the Government, is obliged to have a certain number of settlers. Perhaps a person could not do better than join him; it would, at any rate, be a good place to come to on arriving in the country, on account of the Sacramento River, which can be descended every week or two in launches to this place.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Capt. Sutter would give any information to emigrants, and I believe render any assistance in his power. The Pueblo of St. Joseph would be another good place to arrive at; it is situated near the southeast extremity of the Bay of St. Francisco. There is a number of Americans and English in the place. Mr. Gullnack is noted for his kindness to strangers, and would undoubtedly give the best advice in his power. Mr. Forbes, likewise, who lives near the place, is capable of giving any information.</P>
046.sgm:<P>So long as the Spanish Government holds this country, neighborhoods and settlements will be thin; it will, therefore, be some time before districts can be organized, schools establihsed, etc., etc. People coming to this country want all the land the law will allow them; wealth is as yet the sole object of all, consequently houses are generally from three to ten miles distant from each other; but it is my opinion a Spanish boy would not think it so hard to go ten miles on horseback to school as children generally do half a mile.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I have endeavored to state facts with impartiality as well as I could. I will here remark that at least half of the company with whom I came are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Let me here remark that those of the company who came here for their health were all successful. A young man by name of Walton, who, when he set out, was of a deathlike appearance--having been afflicted with dropsy or consumption--landed in perfect health.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In Upper California there are no large towns. Monterey is the principal, and contains about 500 or 600 inhabitants; the Pueblo of St. Joseph about 300; Port St. Francisco, 50.</P>
046.sgm:<P>People say there has been already three times as much rain this winter (of '41 and '42) as they ever knew in one season before. Notwithstanding this, I do not think the rains and snows here as disagreeable as those of the United States. Where the land has not been pastured by cattle and horses, the rains make it very soft and miry, so that it is extremely bad traveling in some places.</P>
046.sgm:<P>If I were to come to this country again, I would not come with wagons, but would pack animals, either mules or horses--mules are rather better than horses generally for packing, but the latter for riding. As I have come but one route to this country, I cannot recommend any other. This journey with packed animals could be performed in three months, provided the company have a pilot--and surely no other company than ours ever started without one.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Allowing a person to be three months on the route, he will need, in the provision line, 100 pounds of flour, 50 pounds of bacon, and if a coffee drinker, 20 pounds of sugar and coffee to his taste; a few other things--dried fruit, rice, &amp;c.--would not come amiss. With all these he would have to be prudent, and before passing the mountains or buffalo range, it will be necessary to lay in 150 pounds of dried buffalo meat. A person will need one animal to pack his provision, one to carry his clothing, and one to ride. It would be well to bring some kind of mountain goods in order to traffic in the mountains, provided one was so unlucky as to have a horse stolen by the Indians or lose one otherwise. A person, if fond of sporting or intends to hunt, will require five pounds of powder and ten pounds of lead; if the gun is a cap-lock one, he should be provided with fire works-flint, steel, lint, &amp;c. if a few extra boxes of caps, they would sell well. Should bring a good supply of clothing (a hunter should wear nothing but buckskin), clothes being very dear here. Persons coming here with the intention of selling, will do well to bring an extra animal laden with guns or dry goods, as they are more current than money; if, however, any large quantity were brought into the country, duties would be required, which would overrun the profit.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I will now describe the route to his country as well as I can--I knowing that if we had had directions as follow we could have found our way much better. You leave Westport, following the Santa Fe road, till you arrive at Elm Grove, which is 25 miles from Westport; going about 6 miles, you leave the Santa Fe road to the left and take a west course and arrive at the Kansas River. Here you start in the road of the mountain traders and which you follow all the way to the mountains; its course till you strike the Platte River is considerably north of west. You ascend Platte River six or eight days' travel till you arrive at the confluence of the north and south forks. About 6 miles above this place is where we forded the south fork; this place is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>There would be many advantages in coming to this country by water--so many useful things could be brought, such as ploughs, wagons, &amp;c.. Surely no American could reconcile himself to the awkward utensils of the Spaniards. I am not prepared to say what would be the value of a good American wagon--not less than $200 or $300. I will say plainly that I do not know that you can live any better here than in Missouri, but your prudence and economy would not fail to make you a vast fortune, provided you came in time to get a farm in a suitable place, and conform to the Spanish laws. Persons wanting any information by letter will direct their letters to New Helvetia, Rio Sacramento, Upper California, to myself or Capt. Sutter.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I will here speak of the climate on the seashore, and can say that with the exception of a few frosty mornings in the winter, the summer is nearly as cold as the winter--in fact, I believe the cold of the summer is as disagreeable as that of the winter. There have been, speaking of the seashore, but few warmer days than those I have experienced in Missouri; but in other parts of the country it is excessively hot a few hours in the middle of the day.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Although fruit trees along the seashore are in blossom in January, February and March, yet the cold of summer coming on retards their growth so that no apples are ripe until the first of September--I speak particularly of the seashore. A small distance from it there is a difference of one and one-half months. Never did I expect to see the earth so beautifully arrayed in flowers as it is here, and from the variety of the humble-bees I certainly think if bees could only once be brought here they would do exceedingly well. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>Wild oats in some places ripen the last of May. I have not seen a mosquito here this summer; but as I was going into the bay, a small party attacked me and succeeded in taking a little blood. This country is surely a healthy one. I have known but one person to die, and it was the opinion generally the cause of his death was intemperance and the want of exercise. I asked a respectable physician what disease prevailed most in California, and he answered "the knife," having reference to the treacherous Spaniards. I have not seen one without a knife since I have been here, but I cannot say that I fear them--I, too, carry a knife and pistol.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is now preached in all the missions that people will have to pay tithes this year. The bishop has found a letter, which lately has fallen from heaven (so the priests say who read copies of it in all the church). The contents of said letter I have not been told. The sheet is very large and written in a hand different from any in the world.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A general is expected every day from Mexico with 500 or 600 men; he is to be both military and civil governor.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is the report now that the Mexican Government will allow a person to hold property in this country without his becoming a Catholic.</P>
046.sgm:<P>To all of my acquaintances and friends, who may be in bad health, I would recommend a trip to California. All whom I have heard speak of the climate as regarded their health, say its effects have been salutary.</P>
046.sgm:<P>THE END. </P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Peter Lassen</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LIFE IN CALIFORNIA BEFORE THE GOLD DISCOVERY.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>By John Bidwell (Pioneer of '41).</P>
046.sgm:<P>THE party whose fortunes I have followed across the plains <ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1"> See "The First Emigrant Train to California." in The Century for November, 1890.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>Dr. Marsh had come into California four or five years before by way of New Mexico. He was in some respects a remarkable man. In command of the English language I have scarcely ever seen his equal. He had never studied medicine, I believe, but was a great reader; sometimes he would lie in bed all day reading, and he had a memory that stereotyped all he read, and in those days in California such a man could easily assume the role of doctor and practice medicine. In fact, with the exception of Dr. Marsh there was then no physician of any kind anywhere in California. We were overjoyed to find an American, and yet when we became acquainted with him we found him one of the most selfish of mortals. The night of our arrival he killed two pigs for us <ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2"> Men reduced to living on poor meat, and almost starving, have an intense longing for anything fat. </NOTE>
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046.sgm:<P>then known by the name of Pueblo de San Jose, now the city of San Jose. More or less of our effects had to be left at Marsh's, and I decided to remain and look out for them, and meantime to make short excursions about the country on my own account. After the others had left I started off, traveling south, and came to what is now called Livermore Valley, then known as Livermore's Ranch, belonging to Robert Livermore, a native of England. He had left a vessel when a mere boy, and had married and lived like the native Californians, and, like them, was very expert with the lasso. Livermore's was the frontier ranch, and more exposed than any other to the ravages of the Horse-thief Indians of the Sierra Nevada (before mentioned). That valley was full of wild cattle,--thousands of them,--and they were more dangerous to one on foot, as I was, than grizzly bears. By dodging into the gulches and behind trees I made my way to a Mexican ranch at the extreme west end of the valley, where I staid all night. This was one of the noted ranches, and belonged to a Californian called Don Jose Maria Amador--more recently, to a man named Dougherty <ANCHOR ID="n3-3">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-3"> The rancheros marked and branded their stock differently so as to distinguish them. But it was not possible to keep them separate. One would often steal cattle from the other. Livermore in this way lost cattle by his neighbor Amador. In fact, it was almost a daily occurrence--a race to see which could get and kill the most of the other's cattle. Cattle in those days were often killed for the hides alone. One day a man saw Amador kill a fine steer belonging to Livermore. When he reached Livermore's--ten or fifteen miles away--and told him what Amador had done, he found Livermore skinning a steer of Amador's!</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>On the way, as I came to where two roads, or rather paths, converged, I fell in with one of the fourteen men, M. C. Nye, who had started for San Jose. He seemed considerably agitated, and reported that at the Mission of San Jose, some fifteen miles this side of the town of San Jose, all the men had been arrested and put in prison by General Vallejo, Mexican commander-in-chief of the military under Governor Alvarado, he alone having been sent back to tell Marsh and to have him come forthwith to explain why this armed force had invaded the country. We reached Marsh's after dark. The next day the doctor started down to the Mission of San Jose, nearly thirty miles distant, with a list of the company, which I gave him. He was gone about three days, Meanwhile we sent word to the men on the San Joaquin River to let them know what had taken place, and they at once returned to the ranch to await results. When Marsh came back, he said ominously "Now, men, I want you all to come into the house and I will tell you your fate." We all went in, and he announced, "You men that have five dollars can have passports and remain in the country and go where you please." The fact was, he had simply obtained passports for the asking; they had cost him nothing. The men who had been arrested at the Mission had been liberated as soon as their passports were issued to them, and they had at once proceeded on their way to San Jose. But five dollars! I don't suppose any one had five dollars; nine-tenths of them probably had not a cent of money. The names were called and each man settled, giving the amount in something, and if unable to make it up in money or effects he would give his note for the rest. All the names were called except my own. There was no passport for me. Marsh had certainly not forgotten me, for I had furnished him with the list of our names myself. Possibly his idea was--as others surmised and afterwards told me--that, lacking a passport, I would stay at his ranch and make a useful hand to work.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The next morning before day, found me starting for the Mission of San Jose to got a passport for myself. Mike Nye, the man who had brought the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Everyone at the Mission pronounced Marsh's action an outrage; such a thing was never known before.</P>
046.sgm:<P>John A. Sutter was born in Baden in 1803 of Swiss parents, and was proud <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The first employment I had in California was in Sutter's service, about two months after our arrival at Marsh's. He engaged me, in January, 1842, to go to Bodega and Fort Ross and to stay there until he could finish removing the property which he had bought from the Russians. At that time the Russians had an orchard of two or three acres of peaches and apples at Fort Ross. I dried the peaches and some of the apples, and made cider of the remainder. A small vineyard of white grapes had also been planted. In February, 1842, I made a trip from Bodega northward as far as Clear Lake in the present Lake County. I remained at Bodega and Fort Ross fourteen months, until everything was removed; then I came up into Sacramento Valley and took charge for Sutter of his Hock farm (so named from a large Indian village on the place), remaining there a little more than a year--in 1843 and part of 1844.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Nearly everybody who came to California made it a point to reach Sutter's Fort <ANCHOR ID="n3-4">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:. Sutter was one of the most liberal and hospitable of men. Everybody was welcome--one man or a hundred, it was all the same. He had peculiar traits: his necessities compelled him to take all he could buy, and he paid all the could pay; but he failed to keep up with his payments. And so he soon found himself immensely--almost hopelessly--involved in debt. His debt to the Russians amounted at first to something near one hundred thousand dollars. Interest increased apace. He had agreed to pay in wheat, but his crops failed. He struggled in every way, sowing large areas to wheat, increasing his cattle and horses, and trying to build a flouring mill. He kept his launch running to and from the bay, carrying down hides, tallow, furs, wheat, etc., <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-4"> Every year after the arrival of our party, in 1841, immigrant parties came across the plains to California; except in 1842, when they went to Oregon, most of them coming thence to California in 1843. Ours of 1841 being the first, let me add that a later party arrived in California in 1841. It was composed of about twenty-five persons who arrived at Westport, Mo., too late to come with us, and so went with the annual caravan of St. Louis traders to Santa Fe, and thence via the Gila River into Southern California.  Among the more noted arrivals on this coast I may mention:<HSEP>1841.--Commodore Wilkes's Exploring Expedition, a party of which came overland from Oregon to California, under Captain Ringgold, I think.<HSEP>1842.--Commodore Thomas ap Catesby Jones, who raised the American flag in Monterey.<HSEP>1842.--First: L. W. Hastings, via Oregon. He was ambitious to make California a republic and to be its first president, and wrote an iridescent book to induce immigration.--which came in 1846,--but found the American flag flying when he returned with the immigration he had gone to meet. Also among the noted arrivals in 1843 was Pierson B. Reading, an accomplished gentleman, the proprietor of Reading's ranch in Shasta county, and from whom Fort Reading took its name. Samuel J. Hensley was also one of the same party. Second: Dr. Sandels, a very intelligent man.<HSEP>1844.--First: Fremont's first arrival (in March); Mr. Charles Preuss, a scientific man, and Kit Carson with him. Second: The Stevens-Townsend-Murphy party, who brought the first wagons into California across the plains.<HSEP>1845.--First: James W. Marshall, who, in 1848, discovered the gold, Second: Fremont's second arrival, also Hastings's second arrival.<HSEP>1846.--Largest immigration party, the one Hastings went to meet. The Donner party was among the last of these immigrants.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>Harvesting, with the rude implements, was a scene. Imagine three or four hundred wild Indians in a grain field, armed, some with sickles, some with butcher-knives, some with pieces of hoop iron roughly fashioned into shapes like sickles, but many having only their hands with which to gather by small handfuls the dry and brittle grain; and as their hands would soon become sore, they resorted to dry willow sticks, which were split to afford a sharper edge with which to sever the straw. But the wildest part was the threshing. The harvest of weeks, sometimes of a month, was piled up in the straw in the form of a huge mound in the middle of a high, strong, round corral; then three or four hundred wild horses were turned in to thresh it, the Indians whooping to make them run faster. Suddenly they would dash in before the band at full speed, when the motion became reversed, with the effect of plowing up the trampled straw to the very bottom. In an hour the grain would be thoroughly threshed and the dry straw broken almost into chaff. In this manner I have seen two thousand bushels of wheat threshed in a single hour. Next came the winnowing, which would often take another month. It could only be done when the wind was blowing, by throwing high into the air shovelfuls of grain, straw and chaff, the lighter materials being wafted to one side, while the grain, comparatively clean, would descend and form a heap by itself. In this manner all the grain in California was cleaned. At that day no such thing as a fanning mill had ever been brought to this coast.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The kindness and hospitality of the native Californians have not been overstated. Up to the time the Mexican regime ceased in California they had a custom of never charging for anything; that is to say, for entertainment--food, use of horses. etc. You were supposed, even if invited to visit a friend, to bring your blankets with you, and one would be very thoughtless if he traveled and did not take a knife with him to cut his meat. When you had eaten, the invariable custom was to rise, deliver to the woman or hostess the plate on which you had eaten the meat and beans--for that was about all they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:had--and say, "Muchas gracias, Senora" (Many thanks, Madame"); and the hostess as invariably replied, "Buen provecho" (May it do you much good"). The missions in California invariably had gardens with grapes, olives, figs, pomegranates, pears, and apples, but the ranches scarcely ever had any fruit <ANCHOR ID="n3-5">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-5"> With the exception of the tuna, or prickly pear, these were the only cultivated fruits I can recall to mind in California, except oranges, lemons, and limes, in a few places.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>The ranch life was not confined to the country; it prevailed in the towns, too. There was not a hotel in San Francisco, or Monterey, or anywhere in California, till 1846, when the Americans took the country. The priests at the Missions were glad to entertain strangers without charge. They would give you a room in which to sleep, and perhaps a bedstead with a hide stretched across it, and over that you would spread your blankets.</P>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-6">  Mr. Schallenberger still lives at San Jose. He remained a considerable part of the winter alone with the wagons, which were buried under the snow. When the last two men made a desperate effort to escape over the mountains into California, Schallenberger tried to go with them, but was unable to bear the fatigue, and so returned about fifteen miles to the cabin they had left near Donner Lake (as it was afterward called), where he remained, threatened with starvation, till one of the party returned from the Sacramento Valley and rescued him.</NOTE>
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046.sgm:<P>Elisha Stevens was from Georgia and had there worked in the gold mines. He started across the plains with the express purpose of finding gold. When he got into the Rocky Mountains, as I was told by his friend Dr. Townsend, Stevens said, "We are in a gold country." One evening (when they had camped for the night), he went into a gulch, took some gravel and washed it and got the color of gold, thus unmistakably showing, as he afterwards did in Lower California, that he had considerable knowledge of gold mining. But the strange thing is, that afterwards, when he passed up and down several times over the country between Bear and Yuba rivers, as he did with the party in the spring of 1845 to bring down their wagons, he should have seen no signs of gold where subsequently the whole country was found to contain it.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The early foreign residents of California were largely runaway sailors. Many if not most would change their names. For instance, Gilroy's ranch, where the town of Gilroy is now located, was owned by an old resident under the assumed appellation of Gilroy. Of course, vessels touching upon this coast were liable, as they were everywhere, to lose men by desertion, especially if the men were maltreated. Such things have been so common that it is not difficult to believe that those who left their vessels in early days on this then distant coast had cause for so doing. To be known as a runaway sailor was no stain upon a man's character. It was no uncommon thing, after my arrival here, for sailors to be skulking and hiding about from ranch to ranch till the vessel they had left should leave the coast. At Amador's ranch, before mentioned, on my first arrival here, I met a sailor boy, named Harrison Pierce, of eighteen or twenty years, who was concealing himself till his vessel should go to sea. He managed to escape recapture and so remained in the country. He was one of the men who went with me from Marsh's ranch to Sutter's. Californians would catch and return sailors to get the reward which, I believe, captains of vessels invariably offered. After the vessels had sailed and there was no chance of the reward, the native Californians gave the fugitives no further trouble.</P>
046.sgm:<P>At that time the only trade, foreign or domestic, was in hides, tallow and furs; but mostly hides. With few exceptions the vessels that visited the coast were from Boston, fitted out by Hooper to go there and trade for hides <ANCHOR ID="n3-7">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:. Occasionally vessels would put in for water or in distress. San Francisco was the principal harbor; the next was Monterey. There was an anchorage off San Luis Obispo; the next was Santa Barbara, the next San Buenaventura, then San Pedro, and lastly San Diego. The hides were generally collected and brought to San Diego and there salted, staked out to dry, and folded so that they would lie compactly in the ship, and thence were shipped to Boston. Goods were principally sold on board the vessels; there were very few stores on land; that of Thomas O. Larkin at Monterey was the principal one. The entrance of a vessel into harbor or roadstead was a signal to all the ranchers to come in their little boats and launches laden with hides to trade for goods. Thus vessels went from port to port, remaining few or many days according to to the amount of trade. When the people stopped bringing hides, a vessel would leave <ANCHOR ID="n3-8">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-7"> See Dana's "Two Years Before the Mast," for a description of the California coast at this period</NOTE>
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046.sgm:<P>I have said that there was no regular physician in California. Later, in 1843, in a company that came from Oregon, was one Joe Meeks, a noted character in the Rocky Mountains. On the way he said, "Boys, when I get down to California among the Greasers I am going to palm myself off as a doctor"; and from that time they dubbed him Dr. Meeks. He could neither read nor write. As soon as the Californians heard of his arrival at Monterey they began to come to him with their different ailments. His first professional service was to a boy who had a toe cut off. Meeks, happening to be near, stuck the toe on, binding it in a poultice of mud, and it grew on again. The new governor, Micheltorena, employed him as surgeon. Meeks had a way of looking and acting very wise, and of being reticent when people talked about things which he did not understand. One day he went into a little shop kept by a man known as Dr. Stokes, who had been a kind of hospital steward on board ship, and who had brought ashore one of those little medicine chests that were usually taken to sea, with apothecary scales, and a pamphlet giving a short synopsis of diseases and a table of weights and medicines, so that almost anybody could administer relief to sick sailors. Meeks went to him and said, "Doctor, I want you to put me up some powders." So Stokes went behind his table and got out his scales and medicines, and asked, "What kind of powders?' "Just common powders--patient not very sick." "If you will tell me what kind of powders, Dr. Meeks--" "Oh, just common powders." That is all he would say. Dr. Stokes told about town that Meeks knew nothing about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>It is not generally known that in 1841--the year I reached California--gold was discovered in what is now a part of Los Angeles county. The yield was not rich; indeed, it was so small that it made no stir. The discoverer was an old Canadian Frenchman by the name of Baptiste Ruelle, who had been a trapper with the Hudson Bay Company, and, as was not an infrequent case with trappers, had drifted down into New Mexico, where he had worked in placer mines. The mines discovered by Ruelle in California attracted a few New <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:Mexicans, by whom they were worked for several years. But as they proved too poor, Ruelle himself came up into the Sacramento Valley, five hundred miles away, and engaged to work for Sutter when I was in Sutter's service <ANCHOR ID="n3-9">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-9">  New Mexican miners invariably carried their gold (which was generally small, and small in quantity as well) in a large quill--that of a vulture or turkey buzzard. Sometimes these quills would hold three or four ounces, and, being translucent. They were graduated so as to see at any time the quantity in them. The gold was kept in by a stopper. Ruelle had such a quill, which appeared to have been carried for years.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>Early in the spring of 1844, a Mexican working under me at the Hock Farm for Sutter, came to me and told me there was gold in the Sierra Nevada. His name was Pablo Gutierrez. The discovery by Marshall, it will be remembered, was in January, 1848. Pablo told me this at a time when I was calling him to account because he had absented himself the day before without permission. I was giving him a lecture in Spanish, which I could speak quite well in those days. Like many Mexicans, he had an Indian wife; some time before, he had been in the mountains and had bought a squaw. She had run away from him and he had gone to find and bring her back. And it was while he was on this trip, he said, that he had seen signs of gold. After my lecture, he said, "Senor, I have made an important discovery; there surely is gold on Bear River in the mountains." This was in March, 1844. A few days afterward I arranged to go with him up on Bear River. We went five or six miles into the mountains, when he showed me the signs and the place where he thought the gold was. "Well," I said, "can you not find some?" No, he said, because he must have a "batea." He talked so much about the "batea" that I concluded it must be a complicated machine. "Can't Mr. Keiser, our saddle-tree maker, make the batea?" I asked. "Oh, no." I did not then know that a batea is nothing more nor less than a wooden bowl which the Mexicans use for washing gold. I said, "Pablo, where can you get it?" He said, "Down in Mexico."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:insurgents, who had made that place their headquarters; I staid all night, and the leaders, Castro and Alvarado, treated me like a prince. The two insurgents protested their friendship for the Americans, and sent a request to Sutter to support them. On my arrival at the fort the situation was fully considered, and all, with a single exception, concluded to support Micheltorena. He had been our friend; he had granted us land; he promised, and we felt that we could rely upon his continued friendship; and we felt, indeed, we knew, we could not repose the same confidence in the native Californians. This man Pablo Gutierrez, who had told me about the gold in the Sierra Nevada, was a native of Sinaloa in Mexico, and sympathized with the Mexican governor and with us. Sutter sent him with despatches to the governor, stating that we were organizing and preparing to join him. Pablo returned, and was sent again to tell the governor that we were on the march to join him at Monterey. This time he was taken prisoner with our despatches and was hanged to a tree, somewhere near the present town of Gilroy. That of course put an end to our gold discovery; otherwise Pablo Gutierrez might have been the discoverer instead of Marshall<ANCHOR ID="n3-10">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm: <NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-10">The insurrection ended in the capitulation--I might call it expulsion-of Micheltorena. The causes which led to this result were various, some of them infamous. Pio Pico, being the oldest member of the Departmental Assembly, became governor, and Castro commander-in-chief of the military. They reigned but one year, and then came the Mexican war. Castro was made governor of Lower California, and died there. Pio Pico was not a vindictive man; he was a mild governor, and still lives at Los Angeles.</NOTE>
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046.sgm:<P>"My stars!" he said. "Why, that gulch down there was one of the richest placers that have ever been found in this country"; and he told me of men who had taken out a pint cupful of nuggets before breakfast.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont's first visit to California was in the month of March, 1844. He came via eastern Oregon, traveling south and passing east of the Sierra Nevada, and crossed the chain about opposite the bay of San Francisco, at the head of the American River, and descended into the Sacramento Valley to Sutter's Fort. It was there I first met him. He staid but a short time, three or four weeks perhaps, to refit with fresh mules and horses and such provisions as he could obtain, and then set out on his return to the United States. Coloma, where Marshall afterward discovered gold, was on one of the branches of the American River. Fremont probably came down that very stream. How strange that he and his scientific corps did not discover signs of gold, as Commodore Wilkes' party had done when coming overland from Oregon in 1841! One morning at the breakfast table at Sutter's, Fremont was urged to remain a while and go to the coast, and among other things which it would be of interest for him to see was mentioned a very large redwood tree ("Sequoia sempervirens") near Santa Cruz, or rather a cluster of trees, forming apparently a single trunk, which was said to be seventy-two feet in circumference. I then told Fremont of the big tree I had seen in the Sierra Nevada in October, 1841, which I afterwards verified to be one of the fallen big trees of the Calaveras Grove. I therefore believe myself to have been the first white man to see the mammoth trees of California. The Sequoias are found nowhere except in California. The redwood that I speak of is the "Sequoia sempervirens," and is confined to the sea-coast and the west side of the Coast Range Mountains. The "Sequoia gigantea," or mammoth tree, is found only on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada--nowhere farther north than latitude 38 degrees 30 minutes.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter's Fort was an important point from the very beginning of the colony. The building of the fort and all subsequent immigrations added, to its importance, for that was the first point of destination to those who came by way of Oregon or direct across the plains. The fort was begun in 1842 and finished in 1844. There was no town till after the gold discovery in 1848, when it became the bustling, buzzing center for merchants, traders, miners, etc., and every available room was in demand. In 1849 Sacramento City was laid off on the river two miles west of the fort, and the town grew up there at once into a city. The first town was laid off by Hastings and myself in the month of January, 1846, about three or four miles below the mouth of the American River, and called Sutterville. But first the Mexican war, then the lull which always follows excitement, and then the rush and roar of the gold discovery, prevented its building up, till it was too late. Attempts were several times made to revive Sutterville, but Sacramento City had become too strong to be removed. Sutter always called his colony and fort "New Helvetia," in spite of which the name mostly used by others, before the Mexican war, was Sutter's Fort, or Sacramento, and later Sacramento altogether.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter's many enterprises continued to create a growing demand for lumber. Every year, and sometimes more than once, he sent parties into the mountains to explore for an available site to build a sawmill on the Sacramento River or some of its tributaries, by which the lumber could be rafted down to the fort. There was no want of timber or of water power in the mountains, but the canyon features of the streams rendered rafting impracticable. The year after the war (1847) Sutter's needs for lumber were even greater than ever, although his embarrassments had increased and his ability <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>There was no excitement at first, nor for three or four months--because the mine was not known to be rich, or to exist anywhere except at the sawmill, or to be available to anyone except Sutter, to whom everyone conceded that it belonged. Time does not permit me to relate how I carried the news of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Among the notable arrivals at Sutter's Fort should be mentioned that of Castro and Castillero, in the fall of 1845. The latter had been before in California, sent, as he had been this time, as a peace commissioner from Mexico. Castro was so jealous that it was almost impossible for Sutter to have anything like a private interview with him. Sutter, however, was given to understand that, as he had stood friendly to Governor Micheltorena on the side of Mexico in the late troubles, he might rely on the friendship of Mexico, to which he was enjoined to continue faithful in all emergencies. Within a week Castillero was shown at San Jose a singular heavy reddish rock, which had long been known to the Indians, who rubbed it on their hands and faces to paint them. The Californians had often tried to smelt this rock in a blacksmith's fire, thinking it to be silver or some other precious metal. But Castillero, who was an intelligent man and a native of Spain, at once recognized it as quicksilver, and noted its resemblance to the cinnabar in the mines of Almaden. A company was immediately formed to work it, of which Castillero, Castro, Alexander Forbes, and others were members. The discovery of quicksilver at this time seems providential in view of its absolute necessity to supplement the imminent discovery of gold, which stirred and waked into new life the industries of the world.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is a question whether the United States could have stood the shock of the great rebellion of 1861 had the California gold discovery not been made. Bankers and business men of New York in 1864 did not hesitate to admit that but for the gold of California, which monthly poured its five or six millions into that financial center, the bottom would have dropped out of everything. These timely arrivals so strengthened the nerves of trade and stimulated business as to enable the Government to sell its bonds at a time when its credit was its life-blood and the main reliance by which to feed, clothe and maintain its armies. Once our bonds went down to thirty-eight cents on the dollar. California gold averted a total collapse, and enabled a preserved Union to come forth from the great conflict with only four billions of debt instead of a hundred billions. The hand of Providence so plainly seen in the discovery of gold is no less manifest in the time chosen for its accomplishment.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I must reserve for itself in a concluding paper my personal recollections of Fremont's second visit to California in 1845-46, which I have purposely wholly omitted here. It was most important, resulting as it did in the acquisition of that territory by the United States.</P>
046.sgm:<P>JOHN BIDWELL.</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FREMONT IN THE CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA </HEAD>
046.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<P>By John Bidwell (Pioneer of '41).</P>
046.sgm:. While at Monterey he had obtained permission from Jose Castro, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">See the preceding papers by the present writer: "The First Emigrant Train to California" and "Life in California before the Gold Discovery," in The Century for November and December, 1890, respectively.--Editor.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">His men in the mountains had suffered considerably. Fremont had given positive orders for them to wait at a certain gap or low divide till he should meet them with supplies, but the place could not be found. The men got out of provisions and bought from the Indians. The kind they most relished was a sort of brown meal, which was rich and spicy, and came so much into favor that they wanted no other. After a while the Indians became careless in the preparation of this wonderful meal, when it was discovered to be full of the broken wings and legs of grasshoppers! It was simply dried grasshoppers pounded into a meal. The men said it was rich and would stick to the mouth like gingerbread, and that they were becoming sleek and fat. But after the discovery they lost their appetites. How hard it is sometimes to overcome prejudice!</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>Accordingly, early in the spring (1846) Fremont started south with his party. When Castro gave him permission to explore towards the Colorado River he no doubt supposed he would go south or southeast from where he was camped in the San Joaquin Valley, and on through the Tejon Pass and the Mojave Desert; but, instead, Fremont with his sixty armed men started to go west and southwest through the most thickly settled parts of California, namely, the Santa Clara, Pajaro, and Salinas Valleys. As he was approaching the last valley, Castro sent an official order by an officer warning Fremont that he must leave, as his action was illegal. The order was delivered March 5th. Fremont took possession of an eminence called Gavilan Peak, and continued to fortify himself for several days, perhaps a week or more, Castro meantime remaining in sight and evidently increasing his force day by day. Fremont, enraged against Castro, finally abandoned his position in the night of March 9th, and, gaining the San Joaquin Valley, made his way rapidly northward up the Sacramento Valley and into Oregon, leaving Sutter's about March 24th.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A little over four weeks after Fremont left I happened to be fishing four or five miles down the river, having then left Sutter's service with the view of trying to put up two or three hundred barrels of salmon, thinking the venture would be profitable. An officer of the United States, Lieutenant A. H. Gillespie, of the marines, bearing messages to the explorer, came up the river in a small boat and at once inquired about Fremont. I told him he had gone to Oregon. Said he: "I want to overhaul him. How far is it to the fort?" And receiving my reply, he pushed rapidly on. He overtook Fremont near the Oregon line. Fremont, still indignant against Castro, who had compelled him to abandon his explorations south, returned at once to California. It so happened that Castro had sent Lieutenant Arce to the north side of the bay of San Francisco to collect scattered Government horses. Arce had secured about one hundred and fifty and was taking them to the south side of the bay, via Sutter's Fort and the San Joaquin Valley. This was the only way to transfer cattle and horses from one side of the bay to the other, except at the Straits of Carquinez by the slow processes of swimming one at a time, or of taking one or two, tied by all four feet, in a small boat or launch. Arce, with the horses and seven or eight soldiers, arrived at Sutter's Fort, staid overnight as the guest of Sutter, and went on his way to the Cosumne River (about sixteen or eighteen miles) and camped for the night.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont's hasty departure for Oregon and Gillespie's pursuit of him had been the occasion of many surmises. Fremont's sudden return excited increased curiosity. People flocked to his camp; some were settlers, some hunters; some were good men, and some about as rough specimens of humanity as it would be possible to find anywhere. Fremont, hearing that the horses were passing, sent a party of these promiscuous people and captured them. This, of course, was done before he had orders or any positive news that war had been declared. When Gillespie left the United States, as the bearer of a despatch to Larkin and Fremont and of letters to the latter, war had not been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SONOMA FORT</P>
046.sgm:</ILLUS> <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Sutter was always outspoken in his wish that some day California should belong to the United States; but when he heard that the horses had been taken from Arce (who made no resistance, but with his men and with insulting messages was permitted to go on his way to Castro at Santa Clara), he expressed surprise that Captain Fremont had committed such an act without his knowledge. What Sutter had said was reported to Fremont, perhaps with some exaggeration.</P>
046.sgm:<P>As soon as the horses arrived at Fremont's camp, the same party--about twenty-five in number--were sent to Sonoma. By this party General Vallejo, the most prominent Californian north of the bay, his brother Salvador, his brother-in-law Jacob P. Leese, and Victor Prudon were surprised at night, taken prisoners, and conveyed to Fremont's camp, over eighty miles distant by the traveled route on the Sacramento River. The prisoners were sent to Sutter's Fort, Fremont arriving at the same time. Then Sutter and Fremont met, face to face, for the first time since Fremont, a month before, had passed on his way towards Oregon. I do not know what words passed between them; I was near, but did not hear. This, however, I know: that Sutter had become elated, as all Americans were, with the idea that what Fremont was doing meant California for the United States, But in a few minutes Sutter came to me greatly excited, with tears in his eyes, and said that Fremont had told him he was a Mexican, and that if he did not like what he (Fremont) was doing he would set him across the San Joaquin River and he could go and join the Mexicans. But, this flurry over, Sutter was soon himself again, and resumed his normal attitude of friendship towards Fremont, because he thought him to be acting in accordance with instructions from Washington. For want of a suitable prison, the prisoners were placed in Sutter's parlor,--a large room in the southwest corner of the second story of the two-story adobe house <ANCHOR ID="n4-3">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-3">This adobe house is still standing, within the limits of the city of Sacramento, and is the only relic left of Sutter's Fort. (See sketch on page 169, The Century for December, 1890.) It was built in 1841--the first then, the last now.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>Among the men who remained to hold Sonoma was William B. Ide, who assumed to be in command. In some way (perhaps through an unsatisfactory interview with Fremont which he had before the move on Sonoma), Ide got the notion that Fremont's hand in these events was uncertain, and that Americans ought to strike for an independent republic. To this end nearly every day he wrote something in the form of a proclamation and posted it on the old Mexican flagstaff. Another man left at Sonoma was William L. Todd <ANCHOR ID="n4-4">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-4">More than thirty years afterwards I chanced to meet Todd on the train coming up the Sacramento Valley. He had not greatly changed, but appeared considerably broken in health. He informed me that Mrs. Lincoln was his own aunt, and that he had been brought up in the family of Abraham Lincoln.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>The party at Sonoma now received some accessions from Americans and other foreigners living on the north side of the bay. Rumors began to reach them of an uprising on the part of the native Californians, which indeed began under Joaquin de la Torre. Henry L. Ford and other Americans to the number of thirty met De la Torre--whose force was said to number from forty to eighty--near the Petaluma Ranch, and four or five of the Californians were said to have been killed or wounded. The repulse of the Californians seems to have been complete, though reports continued alarming, and a man sent from Sonoma to Russian River for powder was killed. A messenger was sent in haste to Sacramento for Fremont, who hurried to Sonoma with nearly all his exploring party and scoured the country far and near, but found no enemy.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I tried to make the prisoners at Sacramento as comfortable as possible, assisting to see that their meals were regularly and properly brought, and sometimes I would sit by while they were eating. One day E. M. Kern, artist to Fremont's exploring expedition, called me out and said it was Fremont's orders that no one was to go in or speak to the prisoners. I told him they were in my charge, and that he had nothing to say about them. He asserted that they were in his charge, and finally convinced me that he had been made an equal, if not the principal, custodian. I then told him that, as both of us were not needed, I would go over and join Fremont at Sonoma. Just at this time Lieutenant Washington A. Bartlett of the United States Navy arrived from the bay, inquiring for Fremont. The taking of the horses from Arce, the capture of the prisoners, and the occupation of Sonoma, had been heard of, and he was sent to learn what it meant. So he went over to Sonoma with me.</P>
046.sgm:<P>On our arrival Fremont was still absent trying to find the enemy, but that evening he returned. The Bear Flag was still flying, and had been for a week or more. The American flag was nowhere displayed. There was much doubt about the situation. Fremont gave us to understand that we must organize. Lieutenant Gillespie seemed to be his confidential adviser and spokesman, and said that a meeting would be held the next day at which Fremont would make an address. He also said that it would be necessary to have some plan of organization ready to report to the meeting; and that P. B. Reading, W. B. Ide. and myself were requested to act as a committee to report such a plan. We could learn nothing from Fremont or Gillespie to the effect that the United States had anything to do with Fremont's present movements.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In past years rumors of threats against Americans in California had been rather frequent, several times causing them and other foreigners to hasten in the night from all places within one or two hundred miles to Sutter's Fort, sometimes remaining a week or two, drilling and preparing to resist attack. The first scare of this kind occurred in 1841, when Sutter became somewhat alarmed: the last, in 1845. But in every case such rumors had proved to be groundless, so that Americans had ceased to have apprehensions, especially in the presence of such an accessible refuge as Sutter's Fort. And now, in 1846, after so many accessions by immigration, we felt entirely secure, even without the presence of a United States officer and his exploring force of sixty men, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>General M. G. Vallejo</P>
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046.sgm:until we found ourselves suddenly plunged into a war.  But hostilities having been begun, bringing danger where none before existed, it now became imperative to organize. It was in everyone's mouth (and I think must have come from Fremont) that the war was begun in defense of American settlers! This was simply a pretense to justify the premature beginning of the war, which henceforth was to be carried on in the name of the United States <ANCHOR ID="n4-5">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-5">So much has been said and written about the "Bear Flag" that some may conclude it was something of importance. It was not so regarded at the time: it was never adopted at any meeting or by any agreement; it was, I think, never even noticed, perhaps never seen, by Fremont when it was flying. The naked old Mexican flagstaff at Sonoma suggested that something should be put on it. Todd had painted it, and others had helped to put it up, for mere pastime. It had no importance to begin with, none whatever when the Stars and Stripes went up, and never would have been thought of again had not an officer of the navy seen it in Sonoma and written a letter about it.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>Under these circumstances on the Fourth of July our committee met. We soon found that we could not agree. Ide wished to paste together his long proclamations on the flagstaff, and make them our report. Reading wrote something much shorter, which I thought still too long. I proposed for our report simply this: "The undersigned hereby agree to organize for the purpose of gaining and maintaining the independence of California." Unable to agree upon a report, we decided to submit what we had written to Lieutenant Gillespie, without our names, and ask him to choose. He chose mine. The meeting took place, but Fremont's remarks gave us no light upon any phase of the situation. He neither averred nor denied that he was acting under orders from the United States Government. Some men had been guilty of misconduct in an Indian village, and he reprimanded them--said he wanted nothing to do with the movement unless the men would conduct themselves properly. Gillespie made some remarks, presented the report, and all present signed it.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The organization took place forthwith, by the formation of three companies. The captains elected were Henry L. Ford, Granville P. Swift, and Samuel J. Hensley. Thus organized, we marched into the Sacramento Valley. The men who had not been at Sonoma signed the report at the camp above Sutter's Fort, except a few who soon after signed it at the Mokelumne River on our march to Monterey. This was, so far as I know, the last seen or heard of that document, for Commodore Sloat had raised the American flag at Monterey before our arrival, and soon it waved in all places in California where American influence prevailed.</P>
046.sgm:<P>As yet Fremont had received advices from Washington no later than those brought by Gillespie. His object in going to Monterey must have been to confer with Commodore Sloat and get positive information about the war with Mexico, which proved to be a reality, as we learned even before our arrival there. There was now no longer uncertainty; all were glad. It was a glorious sight to see the Stars and Stripes as we marched into Monterey. Here we found Commodore Sloat. The same evening, or the next, Commodore Stockton, a chivalrous and dashing officer, arrived around Cape Horn to supersede him. Plans were immediately laid to conquer California. A California Battalion was to be organized, and Fremont was to be lieutenant-colonel in command. Stockton asked Fremont to nominate his own officers. P. B. Reading was chosen paymaster, Ezekiel Merritt quartermaster, and, I think, King commismissary. The captains and lieutenants chosen at Sonoma were also commissioned. Though I did not aspire to office, I received a commission as second lieutenant.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Merritt, the quartermaster, could neither read nor write. He was an old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Merritt was never removed from his office or rank, but simply fell into disuse, and was detailed, like subordinate officers or men, to perform other duties, generally at the head of small scouting parties. Merritt's friends--for he must have had friends to recommend him for quartermaster--in some way managed to fix up the accounts relating to the early administration of his office. In fact, I tried to help them myself, but I believe that all of us together were never able to find, within a thousand dollars, what Merritt had done with the money. How he ever came to be recommended for quartermaster was to every one a mystery. Perhaps some of the current theories that subsequently prevailed might have had in them just a shade of truth, namely, that somebody entertained the idea that quartermaster meant the ability and duty to quarter the beef!</P>
046.sgm:<P>The first conquest of California, in 1846, by the Americans, with the exception of the skirmish at Petaluma and another towards Monterey, was achieved without a battle. We simply marched all over California, from Sonoma to San Diego, and raised the American flag without opposition or protest. We tried to find an enemy, but could not. So Kit Carson and Ned Beale were sent East, bearing despatches from Commodore Stockton announcing the entire conquest of California by the United States. Fremont was made Governor by Stockton at Los Angeles, but could not enter upon the full discharge of the duties of his office till he had visited the upper part of California and returned. He sent me to take charge of the Mission of San Luis Rey, with a commission as magistrate over the larger portion of the country between Los Angeles and San Diego. Stockton and all his forces retired on board of their vessels. Fremont went north, leaving part of his men at Los Angeles under Gillespie, part at Santa Barbara under Lieutenant Talbot, and some at other points. Pio Pico and Jose Castro, respectively the last Mexican governor and commander-in-chief, remained concealed a while and then withdrew into Mexico.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Suddenly, in about a month, Fremont being in the north and his troops scattered, the whole country south of Monterey was in a state of revolt <ANCHOR ID="n4-6">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:. Then for the first time there was something like war. As there were rumors of Mexican troops coming from Sonora, Merritt was sent by Gillespie to reconnoiter towards the Colorado River. Gillespie was surrounded at Los Angeles, and made to capitulate. I fled from San Luis Rey to San Diego. Merritt and his party, hearing of the outbreak, also escaped to San Diego. Meanwhile, Fremont enlisted a considerable force (about four hundred), principally from the large Hastings immigration at Sacramento, and marched south. Commodore Stockton had landed and marched to retake Los Angeles, and failed. All the men-of-war, and all the scattered forces, except Fremont's new force, were then concentrated at San Diego, where Commodore Stockton collected and reorganized the forces, composed of sailors, marines, men of Fremont's battalion under Gillespie and Merritt, volunteers at San Diego, including some native Californians and that portion of the regular troops under General S. W. Kearney that had escaped from the field of San Pascual <ANCHOR ID="n4-7">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-6">Royce, in his history of California, says that the immediate cause of this revolt was the intolerant and exasperating administration of affairs by Gillespie at Los Angeles.--Editor.</NOTE>
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046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-7">Time does not permit me to do more than allude to the arrival at San Diego of General Kearney with one hundred soldiers, and with Kit Carson and Beale, from New Mexico; or to his repulse at San Pascual.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>Unfortunate differences regarding rank had arisen between Stockton and Kearney. Fremont was afterwards arrested in California by Kearney for refusing to obey his orders, and was taken to Washington and court-martialed. Stockton, however, was largely to blame. He would not submit to General Kearney, his superior in command on land, and that led Fremont to refuse to obey Kearney, his superior officer. Fremont's disobedience was no doubt owing to the advice of Stockton who had appointed him governor of California <ANCHOR ID="n4-8">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-8">Mr. Charles H. Shinn informs us that General Vallejo in one of his letters tells of having received on the same day communications from Commodore Stockton, General Kearney, and Colonel Fremont, each one signing himself "Commander-in-Chief of California."--Editor.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>The war being over, nearly all the volunteers were discharged from the service in February and March, 1847, at Los Angeles and San Diego. Most of us made our way up the coast by land to our homes. I had eleven horses, which I swam, one at a time, across the Straits of Carquinez at Benicia, which J. M. Hudspeth, the surveyor, was at the time laying out for Dr. Robert Semple, and which was then called "Francisca;' after Mrs. Vallejo, whose maiden name was Francisca Benicia Carrillo.</P>
046.sgm:<P>JOHN BIDWELL.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COMMODORE ROBERT FIELD STOCKTON.</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EARLY CALIFORNIA REMINISCENCES.<LB>By Gen. John Bidwell.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>(For more than half a century John Bidwell was one of the foremost citizens of California--not by any accident of birth or happy business venture, but mainly by the sheer force of righteousness, using the word in its larger meaning. Coming here years before the golden magnet had given its first tug hitherward at the hearts of adventurers the world over, he saw the Mexican province wrenched from the hands that had held till then and molded into a State, which was to weigh powerfully in shaping the social and economic future of the Republic. In the development of that State his voice and hand were potent factors for fifty years. Through all that time be preserved upon his own estate the patriarchal traditions of the older day, as did few other Americans. To all within its borders, he was guide, counsellor and friend; its gates swung wide in limitless hospitality; its storehouses were gladly open to every opportunity of benevolence.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Near the close of his life this clear-visioned, clean-hearted, high-souled Californian recorded some personal recollections of the days when California was in the making. In publishing these, they will be treated with the respect due to historical "sources"--that is to say, without editing or alteration, except for slight changes in punctuation and arrangement.--Ed.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>ON THE WAY IN 1841.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our first experience in packing animals was under the most trying circumstances. The packs had all to be lashed very tight in order to stay on at all. The mules were not the only animals that kicked. The horses were as bad or worse than the mules, and the oxen, at least some of them, surpassed all in dislodging the burdens they were to carry. In fact, horses and mules ran about in every direction, scattering the packs. The oxen not only ran, but kicked and heaved and helped to cause general disaster; but we tried and tried them again until we were able to make the packs stay on without having to fix them for several miles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The first night we were unable to reach water. Some of the pack-oxen strayed in the darkness before we camped and had to be hunted for the next day, while the main party went on to find water. I was the one who was to find the missing animals. The man who went with me became discouraged and left me when we had gone back about ten miles. Striking the trail of the lost animals, I followed on alone for about ten miles directly north, and at sundown overtook the animals lying down in the grass with the packs on.</P>
046.sgm:<P>They were evidently not far from water, which the grass indicated. They had followed an Indian trail, and fresh moccasin tracks had been made for some distance after the animals had passed along. However, I saw no Indians, though they must have seen me, and certainly the Indians could not have been hostile, for I was entirely alone.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It took some time to change and readjust the packs on the oxen so as to begin my return to the company. Without being molested, I started and traveled during the whole night, striking the trail of the company at daybreak, where there was an abundance of water, but no timber except willows. The company had evidently stopped there for noon the previous day. My disappointment was great when I found that they had not waited for me as they had promised to do when they found water. I tied the oxen to the willow trees and began to make extended circles to the south and west to find in which direction the company had gone.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>I had seen Indian fires in various directions, particularly toward the north and west. The ground was very hard, almost like rock, and the animals had left no tracks. The atmosphere was hazy and the mirage very embarrassing. When about three miles to the west of where I left the oxen, I saw two forms in the mirage to the south. Their motions led me to believ they were Indians mounted on horses. I hastened to regain the place where I had left the oxen. My horse suddenly plunged into a miry place almost out of sight, my gun filled with mud, but I threw it onto the dry ground, and with the greatest difficulty succeeded in getting myself and my horse out, covered with mud, and our ears and eyes filled. The Indians, as I supposed, were by this time quite near. My gun, a flintlock, could not be fired, but I prepared as well as I could by making barricades of oxen, and trying to get dry powder into my gun, to resist attack; but to my delight, two of our men appeared in place of Indians. They had come back to meet me, bringing water and provisions. I had been deceived, not supposing that the company had turned so sharply toward the south. From this time on for several days our course lay to the southwest.</P>
046.sgm:<P>One morning, as we were in the midst of packing up, a band of Indians, all mounted on horses and numbering about ninety, came up to us. Not knowing what they might do, it certainly was not safe to permit them to come up to us while preparing to start. The captain could not be persuaded to send men to stop them. He said the Indians would consider this a hostile act. Nevertheless, four or five of us seized guns and went out toward them, and by earnest gestures made them understand not to come too near. Meantime the company hastened to get ready to start.</P>
046.sgm:<P>That band of Indians was armed with carbines, and was well supplied with buffalo robes and other things, showing their ability to cope with the Blackfeet and other warlike tribes between them and the buffalo country, which was at that time at least 500 miles to the east and northeast.</P>
046.sgm:<P>These Indians were short of ammunition. They traveled with us nearly all day; that is to say, keeping abreast of us and about 100 or 200 yards from us. Occasionally one would come to us, or toward us, to exchange deerskins, moccasins, and other things for powder and balls. They were willing to give a large, well-dressed skin for four charges of powder and four bullets, and other things in proportion. They showed no signs of hostility, but might have done so had we permitted them to come promiscuously among us.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In a few days we came to a country where there was very little grass. Everything was dry--absolutely no water. We then called a halt and asked the men who had been to Fort Hall for information, to repeat again what they had learned about the country. It was the same old story: "Be careful not to go too far to the south, because you will get to a country destitute of water and grass, and your animals will perish."</P>
046.sgm:<P>We thereupon changed our course and went directly north, and passed a range of mountains. The topography of the country was such as prevented our taking a westerly course. We camped on a small stream running directly toward the north. The traveling was very good next day, crossing and recrossing the stream, until at last it entered a canyon. We traveled into the canyon till night overtook us, by which time the sides of the canyon had become precipitous, in places over 100 feet high. Hoping to get through, we got along as best we could, floundering over boulders in the very bed, which was now drying up, but which, in the winter season, must have been a raging river. Here we had to pass the night, our animals being jaded and footsore and unable to go farther. That was a dismal night. Our men were again called upon to give us the information they had obtained at Fort Hall. They were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Finally, one day when it was my turn to drive the oxen, the captain led the company on so fast that I could not keep up, and at night I was about nine miles behind the company. The next morning it was no easy task for me alone to get the oxen out of the brush, put the packs on and start on my way. The company, however, having nothing to eat, were obliged to wait till I overtook them, so that an ox could be killed for breakfast. I considered that I had been badly treated, and did not hesitate to tell the captain, and the men whom I thought to blame, what I thought. Curiously enough, they made no response. An ox was killed and the company breakfasted about noon. About one o'clock we were packed and ready to travel. The captain and his mess came to us and said, "Let us have a double share of meat. Our animals are stronger and can carry it better, and we will kill the next ox and pay you back." We very willingly consented, but as soon as all was ready to start the captain made known his purpose and said, "I have been found fault with and am not going to stand it any longer. I am going to California, and if you can keep up with me it is all right, and if you can't you may go to hell." So he and the seven started off as fast as they could go, and were soon out of sight.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S FORT, NEW HELVETIA (SACRAMENTO) IN 1847.</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EARLY CALIFORNIA REMINISCENCES.<LB>By Gen. John Bidwell.<LB>II.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>On November 28, 1841, we arrived at Sutter's Fort--that is, at the station. There was no fort yet, but merely a station for the convenience of the hunters and fur-traders. Agriculture was in an embryo state, for no crop had been raised yet. Some of the settlers had sown grain, but owing to the unprecedented dry season, the crop was a total failure. There was no such a thing as bread,, so we must eat beef, varying it with an occasional game dinner consisting of elk, deer, antelope, or geese and ducks. Our Christmas dinner was entirely of ducks. The valley abounded in elk, deer, antelope, geese and ducks, cranes, beaver and otter. Grizzly bear were almost an hourly sight. In the vicinity of the streams, it was not uncommon to see from thirty to forty in a day.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Speaking of bear, I will relate one incident. Becoming tired of beef, James John, one of the first overland party, said he was going to have some bear meat. An old Rocky Mountain hunter, named Bill Barrows, offered to go with him to get bear meat. It was only a question of one, two or three miles to shoot them, so they started and soon came in sight of one, a monster in size, feeding in the tall grass not far from the river timber, on the west side of the river, opposite the place where the City of Sacramento now is. A man who is acquainted with the habits and disposition of grizzly bears is cautious. Old hunters always keep to the leeward of a bear so as to take an advantage and secure a dead shot, but a raw hunter is often careless, till experience is sure to make him cautious. James John went to within fifty yards of the bear and fired at him. The old hunter was screaming at him, "You fool, don't go there; come back," but Johnny, as we used to call him, was one of those strange beings you may see once in a lifetime, who never seem to know what fear is.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When the bear heard the shot, he broke into the thicket along the river bank, it being one of those dense thickets of grapevine and willows, but John followed right in after the bear, and was gone a quarter of an hour or more. He came out greatly disappointed because he had not succeeded in killing the bear, saying that he had had bad luck, for he got within six feet of the bear, thinking he was wounded. When the bear opened his mouth he tried to get the gun into it, so as to make a sure shot; but before he could do this the bear broke and ran farther into the thicket.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A dozen or more of our party reached Sutter's in 1841 in December. Robert Livermore had charge of the stock, cattle and horses, of which Sutter had about 2,000 head. This same Livermore had a farm in Livermore Valley, to which valley he gave his name. He was a runaway English sailor boy, who had grown up in the country and understood the Spanish laws, and knew the customs almost as well as the natives themselves.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Without imputing dishonesty to the natives, cattle and horses were so abundant that the distinctions of the civil courts were not strictly observed by them. The boundaries between ranches were, in many cases imaginary. Stock roamed at will and herds became mixed. If one happened to kill the bullocks of another, it was hardly worth noticing, for it would be strange if at some time or another that neighbor had not killed a bullock belonging to him. Competition between Livermore and his neighbors was sharp, and a friend, thinking he was doing Livermore a great favor, told him that a neighbor had just killed one of his bullocks, and that if he would hurry he would find him in the act of skinning it. Livermore said, "No, I'm too busy taking the skin off of one of his bullocks." </P>
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046.sgm:<P>There were some sailors, much mixed as to nationality--German, English, French, Scotch, etc. Generally the sailors left their vessels off coast, though there were some that had come over the Rocky Mountains, some from Oregon, and some by the way of New Mexico. There were also a few Canadian-French, who had found their way to California in some manner. Sutter had six Kanakas from the Sandwich Islands, also Native Californians and Spanish, and a great many pure natives, Indians, who had collected around to work, forming a great mixture of all classes. The language was principally Spanish, and most of the people had learned it or begun to do so.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It was about this time that Sutter had come into possession of the Russian property on the sea at Fort Ross and at Bodega. He purchased all the property which they were unable to remove when they retired from the country. I allude to the Russian settlement, which was but a branch of the Russian Fur Company, of which the Czar of Russia was president, and which had a charter from old Spain, authorizing the company to establish a branch for the purpose of taking furs along the coast at Fort Ross. The charter had nearly expired, so they sold nearly everything to Sutter, including a schooner of about twenty tons, and forty pieces of cannon, together with some old muskets, some or most of which were those lost by Napoleon in the disastrous campaign to Mscow. These muskets kicked pretty hard. The purchase included also about 2,000 head of cattle, about 600 horses, and all the buildings at the settlement. On our arrival most of the horses and cattle had been removed from the Russian settlement, having been driven by way of Sonoma, and through what is now the counties of Solano and Yolo, to and across the Sacramento River in the vicinity of Sutter's settlement. At that time there was no settlement east of the farm of Salvador Vallejo, where Napa City now is, except an Indian village at Suisun, and the country was entirely without roads or paths, except those made by wild game, principally elk, antelope and grizzly bear.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter had begun also to remove some of the cannon before mentioned. This probably was because of the jealousy or fear the native authoritites had of Sutter. Another cause, however, might be named, to-wit, Sutter's settlement had become the rendezvous for foreigners, and especially for Americans, who were becoming odious both on account of the war in Texas, and because of rumors that the Americans might rise, and, with Texas, take California. When Sutter heard threats against him, coming from the native Californians, he felt insecure, not knowing what might be the result; so he hastened to remove all the arms and cannon from the Russian settlement.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When by chance one of our men, lost from our company in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, reached Sutter's Fort in the Sacramento Valley and announced our coming across the plains (being about thirty men of us), he supposed that we would all come immediately to his settlement, and in fact, sent men to find us and bring us there. Sutter took courage with reinforcements and sent word to the Governor of California that he did not wish to have any more threats made against his settlement, for he was not only able to defend himself, but amply able to chastise him. That letter was sent to Mexico, and the Mexican Government sent 500 troops to break up Sutter's Settlement, but they moved slowly and it was two years or more before the Governor and his troops got there, and then Sutter was equal to the emergency. He took time by the forelock and sent couriers to the Governor at San Diego as soon as he had landed, with letters of congratulation and welcome, and submitting wholly to his authority. Then he made of the Governor a fast friend, and, through Sutter, a friend of the Americans who had clustered around him.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Vallejo was the commander-in-chief of the military forces. The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1841-42 was one of the most remarkable floods, the oldest inhabitants having seen nothing like it, following, as it did, one of the dryest years in the memory of the oldest inhabitant.</P>
046.sgm:<P>My first occupation in California was at Bodega and Fort Ross, taking charge with Robert T. Ridley, who preceded me there, of the Russian property still remaining at those points, and removing the same as fast as practicable to Sutter's Settlement at Sacramento, whither everything was eventually transferred. (All the Indians on the coast at that time in the vicinity of the Fort, spoke the Russian language, the Spanish gradually superseding it.) There I remained about fourteen months. During the time my occupation consisted in demolishing the houses at Fort Ross, and shipping the lumber up the Sacramento River, and sending almost everything in the shape of personal property. Russian plows, yokes, carts, house furniture, and everything transportable that could be made useful at Sacramento were sent. The Russians had carried on farming and gardening to a limited extent, sowing some wheat, corn, potatoes, melons and other things. There was an orchard and small vineyard belonging to a Russian nobleman called here "Don Jorge."</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter also had lumber sawed by hand in the redwoods near Bodega, and sent by sea in his schooner and up to Sacramento.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When all the cattle (wild cattle I mean, for all the cattle were considered wild, except a few which had been broken in to milk or to work as oxen) had been removed to Sacramento, there still remained from 150 to 200 head so wild that they seldom could be seen in the day time. Late in the evening, when it was almost dark, they would emerge from their impenetrable hiding places to eat grass. They were wilder than any deer, buffalo, elk, or antelope, possessing the keenest vision and hearing. It was almost impossible to kill them, the country being so hilly and brushy. They were so wild that for a year I never killed one because the deer, antelope, etc., would get between me and the game, and if I scared a deer, they knew that meant danger, and ran. I thought I had seen wild animals, but I confess they were the wildest I had ever seen.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Even the native Californians could not believe they were so wild, and readily undertook to catch and kill them for one-half the hides. They were all expert horsemen and expert lazoderos, and they followed the cattle into their haunts in the thickets to drive them out. After an effort of two weeks, they succeeded in killing about a dozen; but during that time they lassoed any number of grizzly bears, elk, antelope and even deer. They killed also one black bear, and one big stag, in the center of the liver of which was an arrowhead.</P>
046.sgm:<P>All these cattle had been brought here from Mexico. Of horses there were thousands in the San Joaquin Valley. I have seen herds twenty miles long on the west side. The men at Sutter's Fort were very orderly, showing that when men are beyond the law and the customs of civilization, there springs up a common law among themselves. There was no law by which to regularly govern the men, yet there was no trouble except with a degraded set of mountaineers hovering around the Indian rancheria, trading beads and whiskey, and sleeping in the rancheria. There was no such thing as murder till as late as 1845. Sutter had a distillery in 1845.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The property being all removed from the Russian settlement on the coast, I made a trip on horseback in February, 1843, to Sutter's Fort, accomplishing the journey in four days. The first day I travelled sixty miles and arrived at the place now known as Vacaville. The country in that region was one vast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>I had with me an Indian. We had each two horses, and a pack horse to carry provisions and blankets. That night I lost all four of the riding horses. They were the best in California, and I suspected they had been stolen. Being unable to find them, I was obliged to borrow from Vaca the only animals he could spare; to-wit, an old mule for myself to ride, and a wretchedly poor horse for the Indian.</P>
046.sgm:<P>No one then knew the way to Sutter's Fort, there being no road. Using our own judgment, we struck off in a northeasterly direction which, could I have continued, would have brought me to my desired destination, Sutter's Fort at Sacramento; but a seemingly impassable stream intervened, and I was obliged to follow it down into the tule marsh, where night overtook us, and the water grew deeper and deeper, rendering it impossilbe to proceed. Obliged to retrace my footsteps, I endeavored to cross the stream in many places, and at last succeeded not only in getting into the stream during the night, but in getting out on the other side. I stayed on the plains about seven or eight miles north of the stream, without fire, without timber, without anything.</P>
046.sgm:<P>As I followed down that stream the night previous the number of grizzly bears that sprang out and ran into the timber was very large. All the paths seemed to be the paths of grizzly bears, judging from the tracks, but they invariably ran from us.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I mention the fact of crossing the stream (which is known as Putah Creek) because of the impossibility of crossing it even in the dry season, both banks being so steep and the sands so soft. I never afterward in the daytime found a crossing. You can ride a Mexican horse anywhere if you spur him.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We struck north, and the next morning found a stream and a house which had been built only a month previously by Wm. Gordon (commonly called Billy Gordon) on Cache Creek. It was a most welcome sight under the circumstances, and here we breakfasted, principally on a fat young grizzly bear, the only bear meat I ever liked. Mr. Gordon was an American, but had lived in New Mexico, and his wife was a Mexican. He was a Mexican citizen and withal was a hospitable and kind man.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The rest of our route lay down Cache Creek to a place now known as Knight's Landing, afterwards settled by Wm. Knight, father-in-law of Hon. Chas. F. Reed. At that time, from a point opposite the Feather River to the present town of Washington opposite Sacramento City, the banks of the river were such that the horses could not reach the water to drink, being so steep and so covered with thickets. At the site of Washington the grass was good, and there I tied the animals that I had borrowed, and crossed the river in a canoe which was kept there for that purpose, and walked to Sutter's Fort, which had at that time been partly constructed.</P>
046.sgm:<P>During my stay there of a week, it was necessary to send my Indian vaquero to change and water the animals staked out over the river. Two of these, the two which I had borrowed, during the time disappeared, and of course had been stolen, because animals fastened as they were by hemp ropes could not of themselves get away. It was very difficult to account for this. Indians did not ride horses. Others were always supposed to have plenty Taking a relay of new animals from Sutter's I hastened to Vaca's ranch on my way to Bodega, hoping to find that the animals had returned home, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>P.B. Reading</P>
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046.sgm:<P>These figures seemed amazing, for, in fact, the best horses sold for from $5 to $10, and the best mules for from $10 to $15. I could not entertain the idea of paying the vast sum of $75. It would take three months to earn it at the salary I was getting, so I sent word to Sutter to send a man to take my place, which he did, a Mr. Wm. Benitz; and I set out to scour the Sacramento Valley especially to find those wonderful animals. I could not hear of them, but I heard of something which led to their discovery, viz; that a company had started for Oregon. I was advised to overtake it. The leaving of the company was, I was advised, an event of sufficient importance to make people look out carefully for horses. Sutter furnished an Indian to go with me. The Company had been gone about a week.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Peter Lassen, whose name now attaches to Lassen Peak and Lassen County, happened at Sutter's Fort in search of a place to locate a ranch. He joined me to come up the valley for that purpose. At Hock Farm, on the Feather River, forty miles above the forth, we took fresh horses, traveling as rapidly as possible. At a place on the Feather River, now known as Nicholas, a German, by name Joe Bruheim, also joined us. We were on no trail and simply steered through the center of the Sacramento Valley.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Approaching Butte Creek, where we camped for the first time after leaving Hock Farm, we had an episode among the grizzly bears. In the spring of the year they lived principally on the plains, and especially in the little depressions on the plains. The first we saw made for the timber two or three miles distant, soon another, and another and more, all bounding away toward the creek. At one time there were sixteen in the drove. Of course we chased them, but had no desire to overtake them; there were too many. As they advanced, one of the largest diverged to the left, and I pursued him alone. He was the largest I had ever seen, and his hair was long and shaggy, and I had the keenest desire to shoot him. I rode almost onto him, but every time I raised the gun the horse commenced bucking. My desire to shoot the bear became so great that it overcame my prudence, and I charged as near as I dared and dismounted, intendindg to get a shot and mount again before he could get me. But the moment I was on the ground it was all I could do to hold the horse, which jumped and plunged and sawed my hands with the rope. When I could look toward the bear, I found he had stopped, reared and was looking toward me and the horse. My hair, I think, stood straight up, and I was delighted when the bear turned and ran from me. I soon mounted the horse, and saw him plunge into the timber and make off.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Indian had killed a large one, the flesh, however, of which was all fat; still it was very useful in frying bread in place of lard.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Horses and mules are always frightened at the sight and smell of grizzly bears. It was difficult to keep our horses, as they snorted and tried to get away all night.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The next morning we were early in the saddle and on our way, and in a few miles' ride took further lessons in the pastime of chasing grizzly bears. I pursued a large one and a very swift one. When following, you must run by the side and not immediately behind him, for he can more easily catch you if you do.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I was chasing too directly behind him, and before I could turn, so close was I, that when he turned and struck, his claws touched the tail of my horse, and for a hundred yards at every jump he struck my horse's tail. Coming to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Hastening up the valley we struck the trail of the Oregon Company on what is now known as Chico Creek, Rancho Chico, and to me one of the loveliest of places. The plains were covered with scattered groves of spreading oaks; there were wild grasses and clover, two, three and four feet high, and most luxuriant. The fertility of the soil was beyond question, and the waters of Chico Creek were clear, cold and sparkling; the mountains were lovely and flower-covered, a beautiful scene. In a word, this chase was the means of locating me for life. I never was permantly located till I afterward located here. It was early in March, 1843, when we reached Chico Creek.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is not easy to conceive and understand the change in the condition of the country caused by the extensive pasture of horses and cattle on these plains. We seldom or never were out of sight of game, deer, elk, antelope and grizzly bear. The snow-capped mountains on each side of the valley seen through the clear atmosphere of spring, the plains brilliant with flowers, the luxuriant herbage, all truly combined to lend enchantment to the view. In fact the valley, with two or three unimportant exceptions, was as new as when Columbus discovered America.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We were now on the trail of the Oregon company, which lay on the east bank of the Sacramento River. The streams flowing into it, with the exception of Butte Creek, had at that time not been named. Seeing some of the Sabine pine on a stream where we camped, we named it Pine Creek.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The next stream we came to was beautiful and clear, and came swiftly from the mountains in considerable volume. On its banks appeared deer in great numbers; they seemed to be in droves; and so we named it Deer Creek.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The next flowing stream some ten or twelve miles beyond, having still more fall where we crossed it, suggested its value as fine water power, so we named it Mill Creek.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The next fine stream presented not only its well timbered borders, but also fertile, grass-covered plain, over which roamed innumerable antelope, so the creek received that name.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Crossing Antelope Creek, and following the trail of the Oregon party, we came to the Sacramento River opposite the site of Red Bluff. Here the company had crossed the river and were encamped on the opposite bank. They had no wagons, simply pack animals. The stream at that time was considerably swollen, deep, swift and cold. With simply a small hatchet, scracely larger than a tomahawk, I set about making a raft to cross, which was no easy task to construct of a dry willow brush and such dead sticks as we could secure with our means.</P>
046.sgm:<P>At last it was completed, being sufficient merely to hold me above water; however, to secure a dry pasage if possible, a second story was built on it, consisting of fine, dry brush, tied securely. In size it resembled somewhat a small load of hay. Fearing I could not manage it alone, I persuaded a wild Indian to go with me. He consented to go with great reluctance, but a few beads and a cotton handkerchief were so tempting that he could not resist. The only things we could get to propel the raft were willow poles, and none of them were long enough to touch the bottom when we got started into the stream; so we had to use them as paddles. We were high and dry when we started, but the displacement of the water by the brush was so little, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Safely on land, however, I soon made my way to the camp of the Oregon company. Peter Lassen and others had remained on the left bank of the river. Several of the party which had come across the plains were in the Oregon company, notably Ben Kelsey, Andrew Kelsey and Dawson, generally called "Bear" Dawson, from a circumstance which occurred in the Rocky Mountains. I at once made known my object which was to find the mule and the horse, which I had lost at Sacramento.</P>
046.sgm:<P>These men at once declared that if the animals were there, and if I could identify them, I could have them, but nearly all protested that there were no such animals there, and they all agreed to drive up all the horses and mules they had for my inspection. As a result I soon found my animals and demanded their surrender. There was some opposition, but Ben Kelsey, a very resolute man, and on this occasion a very useful one to me, declared that I should have them. Then all opposition being withdrawn, the animals were driven to the river and made to swim across.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RAPHAEL-GEN. BIDWELL'S INDIAN VALET. 1850.</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EARLY CALIFORNIA REMINISCENCES.<LB>By Gen. John Bidwell.<LB>III.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>My object being accomplished, I at once set about my return. Peter Lassen was a very singular man, very industrious, very ingenious, and very fond of pioneering, in fact, stubbornly so. He had great confidence in his powers as a woodman, but strangely enough he always got lost.</P>
046.sgm:<P>As we passed the Butte Mountains, our route, of course, lay between the Sacramento and Feather Rivers. The point we wished to reach that night was Sutter's Hock Farm on the Feather River. Night had overtaken us when we were some fifteen miles from it. Lassen persisted in keeping the lead.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our Indian vaquero, however, who knew the country well in that vicinity, pointed to the eastward as the way we should go. Lassen could not be persuaded to go to the east, and, finally, about morning, we concluded to say we must go east, and if he would not, we would leave him. This had no effect on Peter, so he kept on toward the south, while we, following the Indian, came to the farm, the only place Lassen could reach being the intervening tule marsh.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Now, if you want to see the humor a man is in after spending a night in a tule marsh full of mosquitoes you ought to have seen Peter Lassen when he came to the camp at Hock Farm the next morning. He was so mad he would not speak to any of us, and would not travel in the same path, but kept to one side or the other and 100 yards away from us all day, and I think, never forgot or forgave us. Yet he was a man who had many good qualities. He was a good cook in camp and would do everything and anything necessary to do in the camp, even to making the coffee, providing those traveling with him would attempt to assist him. If they did not attempt to assist him they at once became the target of the best style of grumbling that any man born in Denmark is capable of. But of course each one would attempt to assist, and that was all that was necessary to do, for Lassen would drive them away, and do it all himself, even to the staking of the tent.</P>
046.sgm:<P>After our arrival from the trip, I sketched, as best I could, the country visited, laying down and naming the streams by the names they have ever since borne.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Lassen selected, as a place to locate a ranch, the country on both sides of Deer Creek, since owned by Senator Stanford, where is located his immense vineyard and the town of Vina.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I engaged with Sutter to take Hock Farm on the Feather River. This was his great stock farm, where most of his horses and cattle were located and there I stayed for a year, and while there made most of the improvements seen by people within the historic period, which is said to commence at the close of the Mexican War, in the spring of 1847.</P>
046.sgm:<P>While at Bodega in 1842, Commodore apCatesby Jones raised the American flag in Monterey. The store-ship Relief, was sent to Bodega, and dispatches were sent in my care to look out for a vessel, which I did, and delivered them. The Mexicans made no resistance.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In 1843 a company came by land from Oregon, composed partly of the immigration which had gone to Oregon the year before from across the plains. This party had men with it, two at least, who might be styled "Indian-killers," and on the way they frequently fired at Indians seen in the distance. The better portion tried to dissuade them from this, but with only partial success.</P>
046.sgm:<P>On arriving at Red Bluff the company camped early in the day, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>After a few miles an Indian was seen following them--no doubt out of curiosity, not having heard of the killing. One of the Indian-killers, seeing the opportunity, hid in the brush until the Indian came up, and then shot him.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The company still travelled on the west side of the river, and in more than ordinary haste, feeling insecure lest the Indians, who were very numerous in the Sacramento Valley at that time, should be hostile on account of what had occurred. One of their encampments was near the Sacramento River, below the mouth of Stony Creek, in what is now Colusa County. The Indians, however, came near in considerable numbers, and hence had evidently not heard of the shooting alluded to.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the morning, as they were packing up to leave camp, one of the Indian killers missed his bridle, and swore that "some of the damned Indians" had stolen it (an unreasonable thing, as the Indians had no horses). He fired at an Indian who stood by a tree 100 yards or so distant. The Indian fell back into the brush and all the other Indians in sight fled in terror. The company became alarmed and hastened away, but before they had started the man found his bridle under some blankets in camp. All that day the Indians on the east side of the river were in a state of great excitement, as the company passed along the west side.</P>
046.sgm:<P>For more than forty miles, at that time, there was no place where the horse could reach the water to drink, the banks being either steep or so grown up with timber and grapevines as to render it impossible to reach the water.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The day after, the company camped and reached water at the place now called Colusa. The excitement among the Indians had preceded them, and a considerable number of them were gathered on the opposite bank of the river. When the horses were led down to water, in an almost famished condition, the Indians fired at them with arrows. No one was hurt or hit. For some unaccountable reason, when the party reached Sutter's establishment a few days later and reported what had happened, Sutter came to the conclusion that the Indians where the arrows had been shot across the river were hostile and should be punished.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Let me say here that the Indian village on the present site of Colusa was one of the largest in the valley, but there were many other villages on both sides of the river in the vicinity of the Colusa village, and both above and below it. I believe I can truthfully say that the number of Indians within ten miles of that point amounted to not less than 1,500 or 2,000. They lived largely on fish, mostly salmon, which they caught in great numbers in the river. For the purpose of fishing they formed a fish-weir at a point some miles above Colusa, by using willow poles, the ends of which were rounded and sharpened, and then in some manner made to penetrate the sandy bottom to a depth sufficient to resist the force of the current. By the use of cross-sticks lashed with grape vine, the structure formed a bridge not less than eight or ten feet wide, for men to pass and repass upon. At this point the river was very wide and the bottom very sandy, and the water perhaps not more than four or five feet deep.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>Sutter, however, concluded to punish them, and went with fifty men and attacked the Indians at daylight. His forces were divided, part having gone above and crossed on the Indian bridge, so that they would be ready simultaneously at daybreak to begin the attack. The Indians fled and mostly jumped into the river, where they were fired on and great numbers of them killed. After that time the Indians in that part of the valley were never known to be hostile to the whites. At any rate I remember of no hostile act on their part, having gone among them almost alone a year after, twice at least, and once, with only five men with me, camped all night near a village without molestation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Two years later, in 1846, I went from Sacramento during the prevalence of a great flood, passing, not up the river, but over the plains, which were like a sea of water. I arrived in a canoe, near the place where the Indians were killed in 1843, to trade for Indian twine for the purpose of making seines with which to take salmon. I had no white men with me, but only two Indians to paddle the canoe, and I found the Indians perfectly friendly.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Here I mention another fact which might have had some relation to the present county of Colusa. I ought to have said that a part of the aforesaid Oregon company left the main body somewhere about this time, or a little before, it entered the Sacramento Valley, and had reached Sutter's Fort some days in advance, and had seen nothing of the occurrences which had caused the campaign against the Indians just described. Among this advance party, in fact its leader, was one L. W. Hastings, a man of great ambition. His purpose in coming to California was to see the country and write a book and induce great numbers of emigrants to come here, declare the country independent and become its first president. It did not take him long to learn that the Mexican Government was in the habit of granting large tracts of land. Not knowing how long it might take to establish here an independent republic, and having an eye to business, he at once took the preliminary steps with the intention of securing a large tract of land of ten or twelve square leagues lying on the west side of the Sacramento River, between Colusa and Knight's Landing, and to that end employed me to make a map of it. This was to be kept a profound secret.</P>
046.sgm:<P>True to his purpose, he made his way through California, Mexico and Texas to the United States. On the way he conferred with Sam Houston in Texas as to the aid and co-operation he might expect from the Lone Star Republic in its then chaotic condition. It is certain, I believe, that Hastings received no encouragement from that source. He was not, however, in the least discouraged, but wrote a book of two or three hundred pages, picturing California in the most glowing colors, and eventually secured its publication. The book induced six or seven hundred to cross the plains in 1846. Hastings preceded them late in the fall of 1845, to be ready to lay the foundations of his republic. The next spring he went to meet his large emigration, but the Mexican War in that year blasted all his fondly cherished schemes.</P>
046.sgm:<P>One other incident is worth telling. After Hastings wrote the book it was some time before he could raise funds with which to publish it. Among other devices to raise money he delivered temperance lecturs in Ohio and the neighboring States, and while on his lecturing tour he became acquainted with a Methodist preacher named McDonald, who rendered him some aid, and they became fast friends. Late in the fall of 1846, Hastings, having returned from his trip to meet his emigration, arrived at Yerba Buena, now San Francisco, in a cold rain. His friend McDonald, whom he had never expected to see in California, had preceded him to the Bay, and, for want of other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S MILL, WHERE GOLD WAS FIRST DISCOVERED.</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EARLY CALIFORNIA REMINISCENCES.<LB>By Gen. John Bidwell.<LB>IV.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>In 1842 snails six inches long covered the country, for a radius of several miles, so thick that we could scarcely step without stepping on them. They stayed only a few days.</P>
046.sgm:<P>For food we had in those days chiefly beef, game, butter and fish. Salmon came from the ocean up the streams. When the streams had gone down the salmon would remain in the deeper places, which were not more than three or four feet deep; often less. They were caught by taking a cord, making a noose at one end, putting it carefully over the salmon's tail and jerking him out. We sent Indians to the sandy places and they brought us strawberries by the bushel. When the time came we picked and dried huckleberries. From the Russian orchard at Fort Ross, apples and peaches were dried, and cider made, and through the favor of Captain W. A. Richardson, captain of Yerba Buena, or San Francisco, whose two sons lived with me in order to learn English, I was able to get occasionally a little of the luxury known as brown sugar, generally known in Mexico as panoche. I had more luxuries than any one.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Thomas O. Larkin was a prominent American in California when I arrived in 1841. He lived in Monterey and had a store there, probably the largest in California. His children were Americans, the father and mother both Americans, (the wife being the only American woman in California, except Mrs. Kelsey, who came with our party). He wished to obtain for them from the Mexican Government a grant of land of ten or twelve square leagues. For this purpose I engaged to find him a tract, and began explorations about July, 1844. I ascended the valley on the west side of the Sacramento River as far as Colusa, having with me one man only, and he an Indian who had been civilized in Mission San Solano, in Sonoma Valley. I encamped for the night on a slough some miles west of Colusa. Before reaching camp I had killed a large female grizzly bear, and carried with me the only part fit to eat--the foot. The next day we went directly west over the wide plains. The day was hot--terrifically so. We found no water until toward night, and that was so salt that neither ourselves nor our animals could drink it, and we were obliged to sleep without water.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We saw deserted Indian villages, deserted because the springs had dried up (I should mention the fact that the summer of 1844 was a very dry one, because the previous winter had been almost rainless.) We were in our saddles at daylight, making our way toward the high mountains that lay to the southwest, feeling sure of finding water there. About 10 or 11 o'clock in the morning, from the top of a ridge, we saw a glorious sight, a large, clear, flowing stream. This we reached as soon as possible, and our nearly famished horses plunged into the middle of it. We saw at the same time a great number of Indians, men, women and children in a state of flight, running and screaming. Unsaddling our horses under a wide-spreading oak, they began to eat the wild oats, which were abundant. We were absolutely obliged to give them rest.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In less than an hour, the Indians that we had seen fleeing from us, the men I mean, were seen coming toward us from many directions. The Indian with me became alarmed. I had a gun, but he had none. By certain signs, I gave them to understand that they must not approach us, but still large numbers had come very near. We saddled our horses, jaded as they were, so as to be ready if obliged to retreat.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>Four or five of the Indian chiefs, or head men, came nearer than the others. They understood no Spanish, but my Indian, who came originally from the country between Sonoma and Clear Lake, was able to understand a few words from a very old Indian. They asked what we came for. They said they had never seen white men before.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Here I felt obliged to let them know what I could do by showing them what I had done, and so I pointed to the foot of the grizzly bear which I had had with me, and told them I wanted to kill grizzly bear.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The grizzly bear were looked upon by the valley Indians with superstitious awe, also by the coast Indians. They were said to be people, but very bad people, and I have known Indians to claim that some of the old men could go in the night and talk with the bears.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I told them I did not want to kill Indians, because they were good people; but I wanted to kill grizzly bear, because they were bad people. Under the circumstances, however, I thought it prudent to mount our horses and go on, and we followed the beautiful stream down (that is to say, almost due north, that being its natural direction), knowing that it must find its way into the Sacramento Valley. To our surprise the number of Indians increased to many hundreds. In one half-day we passed seventeen large villages. They evidently came from the permanent villages and made temporary ones on this flowing stream. These Indians certainly proved anything but hostile. They were evidently in great awe of us, but showed no signs of hostility.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Hundreds were before and behind us, and the villages were made aware of our approach before we reached them. I generally found the ground carpeted with branches and weeds, and made ready for me as a place to stop and talk.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Women ran in great haste and brought baskets full of provisions of all kinds, apparently to pacify me, supposing, perhaps, that I was hungry and came to lay in a supply of provisions. In fact, I found myself almost barricaded with baskets full of acorn bread, grasshoppers, various kinds of seeds, etc. Among them, however, I found a kind of meal, made by pounding the cone or berries of juniper, which made a kind of yellowish meal, very good, and resembling gingerbread in taste. Its Indian name I well remember. viz: Mun.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The sun began to go down over the mountains and we were still traveling in the midst of a vast multitude of Indians, and every village added to the number. The old Indian before mentioned I took care to keep near me, so that through him I could communicate with the other Indians.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I should mention that before, at our first talk with the Indians, I tried to present each of the chiefs with a few beads and fancy cotton handkerchiefs (things I always carried for that purpose when among them). Seeing a conical hill, I determined to make that my camp for the night. I told the old Indian I was going there to sleep and that all the Indians must go to their villages and not come near me in the night, as it would make me very angry if any Indians approached me in the night. In great obedience the Indians were soon all out of sight. I made a barricade near the top of the hill by piling rocks around us, and tied our horses near us. The Indian lay awake one-half of the night, and I the other half, but not an Indian appeared during the night; for we had a view in every direction from our position. But soon after daylight the mountain seemed to be alive with Indians, and we thought it best to continue our journey down the stream, passing, as before, many large villages. At noon we came to the largest of all the permanent villages. There the Indians had built a large dance-house in the usual Indian style, using long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Here for the first time and the last time in my life I saw that the Indians had procured poles for the rafters of the house by cutting down cottonwood and willow trees with stone axes, leaving the stumps a mass of bruised, woody fibers resembling well worn brooms. The stone axes bruised rather than cut.</P>
046.sgm:<P>This 4th of July, 1844, seemed to be a gala day with the Indians, or else for my benefit they made it so. Male and female were in the gayest costumes, wearing, ornaments of feathers and beads. To cap the climax, they got up the largest and gayest dance and the best singing I've ever witnessed among the Indians. I still carried the bear's foot, and thought it best to tell the Indians that my desire was to kill bear. They wanted to know what I killed the bears with, and of course I told them, "With the gun." Then they wanted to see me shoot it. This I declined to do, because I did not wish to frighten them or injure them, and bidding them good-bye, that evening I reached the Sacramento Valley. The above mentioned stream proved to be what is now known as Stony Creek. The Indian name was Capay (Capi), and by this name it went until Peter Lassen and William C. Moon, in 1845, made grindstones from material found upon one of its branches, after which it gradually became known as Stony Creek.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The next day, July 5th, 1844, I reached the Sacramento River and met Ed. A. Farwell, with two canoes, coming up the river to begin occupation of a grant located on the east side of the river and south of Chico Creek.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Finding no considerable extent of level land in the mountains, I mapped out the Larkin grant on the Sacramento River above Colusa (the location is well known), in Colusa county.</P>
046.sgm:<P>On my return to Sutter's Fort and describing the country seen and the streams along the Coast Range Mountains, the trappers believed that it was a good country in which to trap beaver. A man named Jacob Meyers raised a company of twenty or more and went to trap beaver.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The first thing they did, however, was to become alarmed at the number of Indians, and, considering them hostile without proper cause, made war on them and killed a great number. I asked why they shot the Indians, who were so friendly to me, and he said that they wore white feathers in their head-dresses or caps, and that they made a great noise, and that he considered these a sign of hostility. He said he had seen an Indian with a white feather and had shot him. I told him they ran and screamed and showed white feathers when I was there, but no one showed any signs of hostility. I was sorry he felt obliged to kill them. They caught some beaver, but not many on account of the Indians.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Before the party went out for beaver, I had made another trip, going up on the east side and returning on the west side, and having five or six white men with me. During that trip we explored to some extent the north and west forks of Stony Creek, and saw some Indians, but found them friendly. Peter Lassen started in the fall of 1843 to take possession of the ranch selected on Deer Creek, but did not get there, the rains detaining him in the Butte Mountains in what is now Sutter County, till January or February, 1844.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FIRST SENATE OF CALIFORNIA</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EARLY CALIFORNIA REMINISCENCES.<LB>By Gen. John Bidwell.<LB>V.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Nearly all the grants of land by the Mexican government in the Sacramento Valley were made in the year 1844, and that was the year when nearly all the settlements were either begun or contemplated, but many interruptions and obstacles occurred in those days. One of them was the insurrection which resulted in the expulsion of the Mexican governor, Manuel Micheltorena, in the spring of 1845.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Early history of California under the Mexican rule will show that it was almost a rule of the native chiefs of California to make insurrection and expel the governors sent from Mexico. To do this, almost any pretext would answer, and very little military demonstration would suffice, as the governors had nothing that they could call an army with which to make resistance. The Mexican governors were to the native chiefs of Spanish descent a kind of foreign rulers, and it did not take long after a governor was sent out to deprive him of the public revenues such as they were, and make him long for even loaves and fishes. With the exception of the priests in charge of Missions, to whom tithes were sometimes paid, the only revenue of a public nature were duties on goods sent to the coast by Boston vessels to trade for hides and tallow. These duties probably amounted per year to the nominal sum of $200,000 or $300,000, paid not on goods, but in the very goods upon which duties were levied. Four to six vessels per year came thus laden with goods. The Mexican tariff on a cargo of goods which cost in Boston six cents per yard, $30,000 to $40,000, being the first cost of the cargo, would be about the same sum, and the goods were counted out in payment of duties, as I am informed, to the Mexican officials, at 25 to 40 cents per yard, and doubtless other goods in like proportion.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Small as were these revenues, the goods thus received were greatly needed and desired by the hungry ex-officials.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Governor Micheltorena came from Mexico, as before stated, in 1843, bringing with him some 500 soldiers, well knowing, as did every intelligent Mexican, that he could not rely on the native Californians. However, his rule was eminently just, displaying no partiality between native and naturalized citizens. To sustain these soldiers and pay other expenses of administration of course used up all the scanty revenues, so grants of land were made to all native and naturalized citizens alike, who desired to settle and improve the country.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The prejudice against the naturalized citizens, especially those from the United States, on the part of the native Californians, was simply intense, hence it was not a difficult task for native leaders, especially such men as Castro and Alvarado, to arouse the people and to fan the prejudice into insurrection.</P>
046.sgm:<P>One of the pretexts was that the governor was giving all the lands to Americans. The insurrections began to take shape in October of that year, 1844. I went with Sutter to Monterey in that month to see the governor. We were the first to hear at San Jose that an insurrection was brewing, and learned that the place of rendezvous was to be in the San Jose Valley or beyond. To go from Sacramento to Monterey, then the capital of California, we traveled on horseback, camping out all the way, consuming about five days, the distance being about 200 miles. We gave the governor the first intelligence of the uprising. In a few days the first blow was struck by an attack upon the men guarding his cavalry horses, which were all driven away in a single night and the governor and his small army left entirely on foot. Everything was in confusion and consternation. Sutter hastened by water to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>On my arrival at Sutter's Fort, I found that Americans and other foreigners had begun to come from all parts of the coast to consult in regard to their own safety on account of the insurrection. It was unanimously agreed that our duty and our safety lay in standing by Governor Micheltorena, who had proved himself not only our friend as an impartial ruler and in promising us grants of land, but a friend to the best interests of the entire coast, so we organized and prepared to march from Sacramento to Monterey in his defense. All this took considerable time. The last week in December, 1844, however, saw us ready and on the march. Our forces, under Sutter, consisted of about ninety Americans and other foreigners, and 120 Indians armed with carbines. The white men generally were armed with rifles. We also had a few pieces of small cannon. A messenger was sent by us to the governor. He returned in due time and was sent again. His name was Pablo Guiterrez. He was a native of Sinaloa, Mexico, and was friendly to the cause in which we were engaged. On the second trip he was taken prisoner, and being found to be the bearer of letters from us was hanged at a place near the present site of the town of Gilroy. The governor met us in the Salinas Valley, and it was resolved to pursue the insurgents, who fled towards Los Angeles. All the winter was occupied (it was now about the second week in January) in a march to Los Angeles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The rebels barricaded the coast near San Buena Ventura and detained us three weeks. On the 22d of February we met and gave them battle at Cahuenga, twelve miles this side of Los Angeles. This aroused all of Los Angeles in favor of Castro and Alvarado, and Captain Bill O'Fallen, with a trapping party of thirty trappers, joined their side. I was aide-de-camp. When we saw the Americans there, we said the Mexicans and the Indians could fight it out. The Americans would not fight. I told the governor that the Americans would not come. I was made a prisoner and made to pull ropes at cannon, but I mounted a horse and ran away. They wounded five or six horses with grape shot. Sutter and I joined the governor, and they took us prisoners. Castro met Sutter and kissed him and was glad to see him. He sent us to Los Angeles.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our men kept their word, but the other hunters and trappers fought against the governor and made him capitulate, and compelled him to leave the country. This was known as the Micheltorena war.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AUTOGRAPHS OF FIRST SENATE OF CALIFORNIA</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EARLY CALIFORNIA REMINISCENCES.<LB>By Gen. John Bidwell.<LB>VI.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Pio Pico went in as governor and so remained until the Mexican war. Alvarado had been governor in 1841. It was now the spring of 1845. Pico made Los Angeles his capital. Governor Pico and the native Californians, for the time being, seemed satisfied with their achievement in expelling the governor, and expressed a desire to be friendly to us, and permitted all to go to Sacramento with arms, ammunitions, horses and equipments. Some of our people retraced their steps by the coast route by which we went, and some of us crossed into the Mojave Desert, and then over the mountains through the Tejon Pass into the San Joaquin Valley. I may remark here that while at Los Angeles I saw some gold and learned about gold mines that had been discovered some two or three years previously in the mountains between the Mission San Fernando and the Mojave Desert, and which were being worked to a limited extent by "Greasers" from New Mexico. (More about these mines later on.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>At the place now known as Tejon was a large Indian village. The Indians, all or most of them, had been at the Mission and spoke Spanish. The country was beautiful, the vegetation most luxuriant, the landscape brilliant with innumerable flowers, and the air laden with their fragrance.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Traveling along the San Joaquin Valley, we encountered vast numbers of wild horses. At this time and for many years previously there had been tribes of Indians inhabiting the Sierra Nevada Mountains for a considerable distance, from the Mokelumne River on the north and extending a great distance toward the south.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It was the custom of the Indians, who had become great experts in riding wild horses, and in the use of lassos, to ravage all the ranches lying between the coast and the San Joaquin Valley from the bay of San Francisco to points south of Monterey, driving off horses by the hundreds into the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and killing them for food.</P>
046.sgm:<P>On this journey of ours up the San Joaquin Valley, we encountered a band of tame horses, nearly 100 in number, and took them from the Indians who were driving them into the mountains. Such raids by the Indians into the settlements were of frequent occurrence. In the winter of 1844-5, the first settlement in the San Joaquin Valley was begun by a man named Lindley, who was engaged to begin occupation on a grant of land made to William Gulnac of San Jose, on the east bank of the San Joaquin River. He constructed a cabin on the present site of Stockton, but when we passed the cabin was empty. The Indians had killed him. Not long after, at Sacramento, Sutter, finding out what Indians had committed the murder, sent a force to punish them, and succeeded in breaking up their village and killing fifty of them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont's arrival in March, 1844, may be called an event of some interest. He had explored in the Rocky Mountains, especially the region near Salt Lake, in the previous year (1843). Till then, Salt Lake had never been correctly laid down upon any map. Its existence was known, especially to the trappers of the Rocky Mountains, at an early day, and the early maps, some at least, indicated a body of water in that region, but much larger than Salt Lake really was. Some of them went so far as to show two great rivers, one from the south end, running southwesterly, and one from the north end, running northwesterly, into the Pacific Ocean. Such maps were consulted by me before starting for California in 1841, and friends advised me to bring tools to make canoes to descend one of these to the Pacific Ocean, should the country be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Fremont cleared away once and forever those mysterious rivers, and, leaving the Rocky Mountains, found his way into Oregon, and in the winter of 1843-4, extended his explorations southward and east of the Sierra Nevadas opposite the bay of San Francisco and reached the Sacramento Valley at Sutter's Fort in March, 1844. Fremont in 1844 had no time to go to the coast, though many said to him: "Go and see the double redwood tree 72 feet in circumference."</P>
046.sgm:<P>On that occasion I had my big tree story to tell. I told Fremont of the big trees I had seen in the Sierra Nevadas. I was the first white man to see the mammoth trees of California, the Sequoia Gigantea.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1844 Sutter sent me across the Coast Range mountains and up on Cache Creek to explore for lumbering regions. Sutter needed lumber for our own use and this demand was every year growing, and hence he was making every possible effort to find a place where he could get the best and most cheaply. It was his favorite idea to find a lumbering region on the Sacramento or Feather river, or some tributary where lumber could be brought down on rafts, for this purpose.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1843-4, he sent his men high up on the Sacramento River, in what is now Shasta county, and they cut a large number of logs and put them into the river, but the enterprise failed, as few of his logs reached his fort at Sacramento.</P>
046.sgm:<P>My trip to the Coast Range Mountains was also unsuccessful. A great rain storm overtook us and we attempted to ascend Cache Creek. Finding no timber, and the stream not suitable to float lumber upon, we returned.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Under Pio Pico's administration in 1845, the granting of land to the naturalized citizens was not wholly, but to a large extent, stopped. There even were many rumors that under the influence of Jose Castro, who was the commander-in-chief of the military forces, an effort might be made to expel all Americans who had unlawfully come into the country. Such danger was by no means imminent, for there were too many Americans already here for the weak government, in this distant Mexican province, to make any such attempt.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I estimate the number of Americans in California at the time to be not less than 250, scattered all along the coast from Sonoma to San Diego, and in the Sacramento Valley.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter's Fort being, in case of danger, common headquarters, thus it was, when any rumors seemed worthy of credence, looking to an attack to expel Americans, they came from all points on the north of San Francisco bay, and as far south as Monterey, including San Jose and intervening ranches, and with Americans came other foreigners.</P>
046.sgm:<P>After being at Sutter's Fort for a week, or two or three, sometimes partially organizing and to some extent drilling, consulting for the common safety, and then hearing of no action upon the part of Castro, or any attempt to disturb them, they would quietly disperse and return to the places where they lived. Of course, coming to Sutter's Fort on such occasions would be kept a profound secret from the Mexican administration.</P>
046.sgm:<P>After the war and the expulsion of Governor Micheltorena, which happened to be coincident with political disturbances down in Mexico which had dethroned the ruling powers there and brought into existence a new administration of affairs, a peace commission was sent by Mexico to investigate and reconcile the troubles here, and harmonize with Mexico. The commission was re-enforced with the name of Castillero, who had come from Mexico on a similar mission of peace. This commission came with Jose Castro as far as Sutter's Fort. So jealous was Castro of Sutter and Castillero that it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>There was some talk at that time (in the fall of 1845) that the Mexican government would purchase Sutter's Fort and pay $50,000 for it. Castillero and Castro came to Sutter's Fort by way of Sonoma, where they had been to visit General Vallejo, traveling, of course, on horseback, as it was the only mode of traveling in those days, and having an escort of twelve or fifteen soldiers. When they left they went by way of the San Joaquin Valley to San Jose, Sutter and myself accompanying them for several miles. In two or three weeks' time we heard that the mine, now New Almaden, was discovered to contain quicksilver by Castillero, and a company was formed to take possession and work it. It had been known for many years, but no one, until Castillero saw it, was intelligent enough to know what it was.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Indians painted their faces with it by rubbing their hands on the rocks, which became covered, by exposure to air, with vermillion. Men frequently took heavy pieces of cinnabar and tried to smelt them in the blacksmith shop, and they thought the mine to be worthless.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The year 1845 was marked by more activity than any other, in making settlements of grants of land which had been given in that and in previous years.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In 1844 there were no settlements in Colusa county. In 1845 a grant of two leagues was made where the town of Colusa now is, and there was no house built until 1846 and that was built for Thomas O. Larkin by John H. Williams. I think it was in the fall of 1846. I know Williams was there in the summer of 1847, and when I visited the place and found him with a cat and horse on the grant, he had done some cultivating, notably a fine garden, abounding in watermelons of the Black Spanish variety; these I vividly remember.</P>
046.sgm:<P>This year, 1845, was memorable by reason of the coming from Oregon of a company of immigrants, of whom J. W. Marshall was one, he being the discoverer of gold on the American River in 1848, which event turned the world upside down. Other immigrants came about the same time to California across the plains.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont also returned to California late in the fall of the year. He had divided his exploring party, sending the greater part to find a way into California through a pass which he imagined to exist a hundred miles or so to the south, and coming himself with the remainder, eight or ten, including the famous Kit Carson, across the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and arriving in the Sacramento Valley and camping on the American River near Sutter's Fort.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter was absent at San Francisco bay. I was in charge of the fort. My first notice of Fremont's coming was by himself and Kit Carson dashing up to the fort. I of course treated them with all possible courtesy, but their demands I was unable to meet. They wanted sixteen jack mules and several saddle-horses to go to meet that part of their company which had been sent to come over the Sierra Nevada Mountains through the gorge supposed to be in the far south. They wanted also the use of the blacksmith shop to shoe their animals, as well as a supply of provisions. Mules, Sutter had not; the use of the blacksmith shop, Fremont was welcome to, but we had no coal; provisions, such as we had. I offered to furnish him. Captain Fremont became <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>This compelled me to explain that Sutter had few or no mules at the time of his first coming, but it so happened that a man chanced to be passing who had about a hundred mules and Sutter was able to buy them from the owner and pay for them, whereas he had not been able to get returns from Fremont's drafts to reimburse him, and that no one here or anywhere near had mules. Also that Sutter was much more depressed and circumscribed in his circumstances, owing to vast debts which he had not been able to meet, than he was on Fremont's first arrival in 1844.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont' however, remained to see Sutter when he returned, which would be in about a week's time.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter was unable to do more than I had promised, but wished to console Fremont in every possible way, so invited him to dinner with him at the fort; in fact, he went to Fremont's camp and accompanied him and Kit Carson to the fort, having previously arranged that when he drew near with Fremont, all the old cannon, about forty in number, should be fired, and give him a grand salute. The guns were fired, sure enough, dangerous, old, rusty pieces as they were, and made a terrific noise, and Fremont had the full benefit, for a large gun in front of him blew off his hat and I think came very near taking off his head. I presided at the dinner table.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont decided to go to San Francisco bay and get an outfit there. Sutter sent him down in his launch from Sacramento, that being the only way except a long way around on horseback, and swimming the streams, all of which were swollen in the winter and spring time. Provisions, when there were any furnished, were such as the launch usually carried. The sailors were Indians, but the captain was white, or Kanaka. It took a week or two to reach the bay while the wind was contrary, but no matter how long the passage was the price was uniformly $5.00. There was no charge for provisions, but the passengers furnished their own bedding.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont had a free pass. When he reached the bay he found it impossible to get mules or anything, and he ordered the vessel, with eight men, immediately back to Sacramento. Fremont's party got out of provisions, but staid as near where Fremont had told them as possible, and got provisions from the Indians. They staid as long as they could, but when the provisions gave out they went to the San Joaquin Valley and there found the others, and his exploring party was again united.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Indians' provision was a kind of meal. The men were fond of it. It was rich, pleasant, and spicy to the taste. The calls upon the Indians being urgent, caused them to become rather careless in grinding the aforesaid meal, and Fremont's men discovered legs, wings, and heads of grasshoppers in it. The meal was simply grasshoppers pounded and pulverized in the usual way. Their fondness for the meal from that time rapidly waned, but not before some had become quite sleek and fat.</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EARLY CALIFORNIA REMINISCENCES.<LB>By Gen. John Bidwell.<LB>VII.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>The winter of 1845-6 was now here. Fremont when he visited Monterey to see Thomas O. Larkin who was the American Consul, was made acquainted with Jose Castro, who was commander in chief, as before stated, of the Mexican military forces in California. The usual military courtesies were exchanged. Fremont asked and obtained permission to camp, with his men, in the San Joaquin Valley, where they could live on game and be distant from the settlement, and thus create no apprehension or disturbances among the people. He also asked leave of Castro, when Spring should open, to extend his explorations as far southward as the Colorado River. Hence the surprise of Castro when Fremont, in March or April, appeared with his whole force of about 60 men, well armed, in the Salinas Valley. Castro had not understood the permission to mean coming with armed forces into the settlement, and he confronted Fremont with such a military force as he had, perhaps two or three hundred men, before which Fremont retreated, and barricaded himself in the Gavilan Mountain. After remaining several days, Castro in the meantime making no attack, but remaining plainly in sight, and evidently increasing his forces, Fremont beat a hasty retreat in the night, and got into the San Joaquin Valley, and thence in great haste to and by Sutter's Fort, up the Sacramento Valley along the way to Oregon.</P>
046.sgm:<P>After he had been gone about three weeks a bearer of dispatches to Fremont came from Washington through Mexico, and via the Sandwich Islands to Monterey in California, thence to the Bay of San Francisco, and the Sacramento River, inquiring as to Fremont's whereabouts. This bearer of dispatches was Lieut. A. A. Gillespie, of the United States Marine service. He had committed the dispatches to memory, and destroyed them before entering Mexico, and re-wrote them on the way to the Sandwich Islands, that being the nearest practicable route, at the time, to reach the coast of California.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I was the first man met by Gillespie. When I ascended the Sacramento river his first inquiry was for Fremont. No one knew the purpose of his visit. Sutter furnished him with means to overtake Fremont, which he did at Klamath Lake, in Modoc County, and Fremont immediately returned to the Sacramento Valley. Of course he had not forgotten the circumstances of Castro's having confronted him in the Salinas Valley, and caused him to change all his plans, and beat a hasty retreat toward Oregon.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont reached Butte Mountains, now in Sutter County, and encamped. Hunters and settlers in the valley immediately flocked to his camp to see what was up. It so happened at the time that a band of horses, belonging, in part, to the Mexican forces, had been collected on the north of the Bay of San Francisco, and, in charge of Lieut. Arce, of the Mexican service, was on the way to Castro, going from Sonoma by way of Sacramento to the Santa Clara Valley. Here was an opportunity for Fremont to have revenge on Castro. He sent and siezed those horses, which was an act of war, and precipitated at once hostilities on this coast. Fremont, it is presumed, did this on the strength of his dispatches, the purport of which, so far as we have been able to learn, was that war was imminent between the United States and Mexico. Before Fremont knew this, however, his first act had actually precipitated the war, which he was obliged to follow up by sending and capturing Sonoma, and taking the leading men, viz: General Vallejo, Jacob P. Leese, and Victor Prudon, prisoners, and bringing them to Sacramento and Sutter's Fort, and raiding generally all the settlers on the north of the Bay of San Francisco, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Commodore Sloat had heard at Mazatlan, through Mexican sources, that war existed, and presuming it to be so, he sailed to Monterey and raised the American flag. The British man-of-war, Collingwood, touched at Monterey just after the American flag had been raised, and her commander said, that if he had reached Monterey first, he should have raised the British flag.</P>
046.sgm:<P>While Fremont and all his men were scouring the country on the Sonoma side of the Bay, I went to Sonoma with Lieutenant Bartlett, of the United States Navy, who came to Sutter's Fort to learn what Fremont meant by the war which he was carrying on, and there met Fremont soon after he was returning to San Rafael. It is also a matter of history that Commodore Sloat simultaneously, with his artillery at Monterey, heard what Fremont had done on the north of San Francisco Bay, and was influenced in his action by supposing that Fremont had later advices from Washington than himself. As it happened, and in due time was known to all, war with Mexico had already been declared.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Previously, however, to the coming of the intelligence, and while I was still at Sonoma, the war which Fremont waged was, as Fremont well knew, premature and without authority, but as it had been begun, to carry it on was a neccessity, and to find an excuse for it was an obligation. Hence, we were all called together by Fremont at Sonoma, on the 4th or 5th of July, 1846, to consider what, under the circumstances, was to be done. We all felt that we could not go back. Fremont was willing to help all he could, providing it could be done under the pretext of defending American residents here in California against pretended threats of expulsion by the Mexican authorities. A committee was appointed to report a plan to a meeting at a later hour on the same day. That committee consisted of Wm. B. Ide, who had been assigned to be the leader, before Fremont's arrival at Sonoma, of the forces which took and held Sonoma. Mr. Ide was enthusiastic for proclaiming the country independent of Mexico, and every day he put something on paper, and posted it on the flag-staff at Sonoma, which papers were known at the time as Ide's proclamations.</P>
046.sgm:<P>While waiting for Fremont to come, a man by the name of Wm. Todd thought it necessary, whether in earnest or not I do not know, to raise a banner, so he painted upon a piece of cotton cloth, with red paint, the representation of a grizzly bear, and raised it to the top of the Mexican flag-staff. The Mexicans, when they looked at it, called it "coche," that is to say "pig", supposing the figure to be meant for a pig; and that famous and now wellknown, bear flag was one of the incidents connected with the movement now, but not then, known as the Bear Flag Movement.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I said a committee was appointed and that Ide was one; P. B. Reading was another, and I was the third member. We met, consulted and disagreed as to what was to be done. Ide wanted all his long proclamations made a part of the report. Reading wanted something less, and finally we three agreed to report separately, and asked Lieutenant Gillespie to select without knowing whose the reports were. He selected my report, which was unanimously adopted, and signed by Fremont, Gillespie, all of Fremont's men ( the exploring party), and also Americans and others at Sonoma, who were willing to join in gaining and maintaing the independence of California. Fremont with all his forces, started next day for Sacramento, and a few days later was on his way to Monterey to meet Commodore Sloat, and co-operate with the naval forces at that point. At noon, on the day after he left Sacramento, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>As soon as we reached Monterey and knew for a certainty that Commodore Stockton was to command the naval forces on the Coast, and that war between the United States and Mexico was a certainty, there was no further need of pretending to make war in defense of the American settlers. The organization of a battalion of mounted riflemen, under Fremont, was begun, and immediate steps were taken to hold California in the name of the United States.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The remainder of this difficulty is a matter of common history, and I took little further part in it.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Some of Gen. Bidwell's opinions concerning Gen. Fremont seem to Out West not justified by the records. But since they are the frank expression of an honest man who took part in the event, they are given place in these pages.--ED.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LETTER FROM JAMES W. MARSHALL.  THE GOLD DISCOVERER</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EARLY CALIFORNIA REMINISCENCES.<LB>By Gen. John Bidwell.<LB></HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>VIII.--(Concluded.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>In those early California days stories were frequently circulated to the effect that mines of gold were known to the missionaries, the knowledge having been communicated by Indians, and that the missionaries suppressed all such information, believing mining to be adverse to the great missionary enterprises. I placed no credence in it. My experience has shown me that man, under all circumstances, is thinking about, or looking for gold. Before I started for California, reports were current along the western frontier that hunters and trappers in the Rocky Mountains had found gold, or had knowledge that it existed. This thing was related to me, that a certain hunter in the Rocky Mountains in crossing a stream picked up a rock that answered for a whetstone, and carried it in his pocket. He afterward found in the same pocket a piece of gold. This fact led him to believe that there was gold where he had picked up the stone. On the strength of this, and similar stories, men searched at various times and in various places, with the idea that, although not yet found, gold actually existed. When passing through the Rocky Mountains we frequently talked about gold, remembering the stories we had heard before leaving civilization. One man proposed to me to stop in the Rocky Mountains and let the company go on, and that we remain, living as best we could, to look for gold.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When we reached California the same ideas were current everywhere. It was talked that gold and silver existed in the mountains, and on the seacoast at Bodega. I remember seeing great quantities of yellow mica, almost as brilliant as gold, and I went so far as to test it to see whether or not it was gold. Before the mine at the place now called New Almaden was known to be quicksilver, the story was current that quicksilver existed in California, and one story in regard to it was this. A man hunting on Mt. Diablo became thirsty and seeing something shining, which he thought was water, hastened to it and attempted to drink it. It disappeared mysteriously. Relating the circumstance, the conclusion was general that it was quicksilver.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When speaking of the discovery of gold in California, people generally have reference to the discovery by Marshall, in 1848, and lose sight of the former discovery, in 1841, in the mountains lying between the Mojave Desert and Mission San Fernando. A few natives of New Mexico worked to a limited extent for several years, selling what little gold they found at Los Angeles. I myself visited these mines in March, 1845, and saw them working them. A few days previous I had seen some of the gold in Los Angeles. Some pieces weighed a half an ounce, were very smooth, and free as the average cold, but the mines were by no means rich, at least worked as they were at that time. In fact, from the best information I could gain, the average wages would not exceed 25 cents per day. Previous to this time, however, in 1843, there arrived on the Coast a very learned and intelligent gentleman named Dr. Sandalls, who, I believe, was a Swede by birth, but had been educated in London, and seemed to be well versed in the natural sciences. His history, as I remember it, was something like this. He, in company with a friend, who had accompanied Von Humboldt on some of his voyages, went to Brazil, intending to make it their home for life. There they passed several years, having purchased plantations adjoining and greatly improving them. However, the death of his friend, and political disturbances, decided Dr. Sandalls to sell out all his interest, which he did, receiving $189,000 therefor. He then went to Mexico and engaged in mining enterprises, investing a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1843-4, I myself was told of the existence of gold on the Bear River. A Mexican named Pablo Guiterrez was in Sutter's employ. He had known of gold mining as carried on in Mexico. Going into the mountains on the Bear River he saw what he considered unmistakeable signs of gold. A few days later I had him go and show me the place and signs, which were coarse, heavy, black sand, red gravelly quartz, etc. Of course I importuned him to try and get gold but I lacked the means. It was indispensable to a placer-miner in Mexico that he should have a wooden bowl of a certain shape. Pablo was sure nothing of the kind could be had, or be made here. The first proposition was that he should return to Mexico and get a bowl, I helping to pay the expenses. He and I to keep the gold discovery a secret between us. Later, fearing he could not be trusted to go to Mexico, lest perchance he should remain with his relations and friends, I made another proposition, which he gladly accepted, to wit, both of us to save our earnings for a year or two, then going by vessel to Boston, where I assured him the ingenious Yankees could make a bowl or anything which might be required. This was in February or March, 1844.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the Fall of the year 1844, during the insurrection against Governor Micheltoreno, known as the Micheltoreno War, this Pablo Guiterrez, being friendly to the cause espoused by the American residents of the Valley, was sent with dispatches to advise the Governor that we were coming to his assistance. Once he went and returned, and was sent the second time, and while on such journey, to join the Governor in Salinas Valley, near Monterey, he was taken prisoner by the insurgents and hanged to a tree near Gilroy. This of course put an end to the prospect of making gold discoveries with a wooden bowl.</P>
046.sgm:<P>However, after visiting the mines worked by the Mexicans in 1845, as before mentioned, and returning to the Sacramento Valley, I at once went into the Sierra Mountains, about 40 miles from Sutter's Fort, with a view of looking for gold. In fact, I started to go into a certain deep gulch in the heart of Dry Creek, south of Consumne River, but circumstances prevented me from reaching the stream. A few years afterwards gold was discovered by Marshall, and 1000 peple went into the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the vicinity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>In regard to the gold discovery by Marshall in 1848, the enterprise which led to it was Sutter's. He had great need of lumber, and his needs were increasing every year. Frequently, for years before, he had sent parties in different directions to find a practicable site to build a saw-mill, desiring if possible to locate it on some stream or tributary of the Sacramento or Feather Rivers, whereby they could be floated down into the valley. I was sent once, in 1846, up the Feather River, and explored the country nearly as far as the place now called Cherokee Mine, in Butte County. Other parties had frequently been sent out on the same mission. My return from the search for a mill site was simultaneous with Fremont's return to the Butte Mountains, before mentioned, and the time when the blow was struck which began the Mexican War in California. That, of course, put an end to saw-mill enterprises by Sutter, for a time.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The war being over, however, Sutter, in the Summer of 1847, sent Marshall to find a mill site. He explored the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and reported favorably on a place now called Coloma. No man, I think, but a crazy man, or just such a man as Marshall, would have selected such a place at such a time, as best and most suitable for obtaining lumber. To raft lumber down the south fork of the American River was simply out of the question, but by hauling it a short distance he imagined he could do go. Coloma was distant more than 50 miles in the mountains, and much of the way was most difficult hills, which rendered it impracticable to transport the lumber by wagons. The building of the mill, however, was a great success, as a gold discovery, but in no other respect.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The picking up of the first piece of gold by Marshall was the result of an accident, or the mistake made by Marshall himself, because the place located for the wheel was lower than the rocky bar below it. This made it necessary, after the mill was built, and ready to run, as he thought, to dig a race, or channel, through the rocky bar below the mill to allow the water freely to escape after it had gone through the wheel. In digging this race the water was turned on every night to permit the current to wash away the sand and light gravel. In this clear, limpid current Marshall saw the first piece of gold. This discovery gave impetus to trade, commerce, immigration, and almost everything else throughout the world, and was brought about by two men of most peculiar characteristics--Sutter, so confiding as to believe Marshall's report of the feasibility of making a saw-mill where I feel sure no sane man would advise, in the light of a profitable lumber enterprise; and Marshall, so wild and erratic in judgment about such matters as to select a site most difficult, impracticable and unprofitable. Yet the two together by this means turned the world upside down. Of course, I believe the matter was providential. </P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RECEIPT FOR DUES.  CALIFORNIA PIONEER SOCIETY</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE PASSPORT OF 1841</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TRANSLATION OF ORIGINAL PASSPORT</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>From</P>
046.sgm:<P>Gen. M. G. Vallejo to John Bidwell.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mariano G. Vallejo, General Ambassador of the Department and Director of Colonization of the Northern Frontier.</P>
046.sgm:<P>For as much as John Bidwell of the United States of North America and State of Missouri, has presented a certificate of good conduct and seeks to obtain legal residence in this country as required by law; he shall be allowed to travel freely in this jurisdiction and he shall be accorded by the local authorities, pass-ports for the various places where he may wish to stay. This will serve him as a provisional letter of security until he obtain from the Government a permanent one, which he will have to demand.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Consequently the Civil and Military authorities of the Districts where he will present himself with pass-ports of the representative judges, will not obstruct his transit nor the exercise of his profession.</P>
046.sgm:<P>They will also render him the assistance he may need according to value.</P>
046.sgm:<P>San Jose, 9 bre 18, 1841.     M. G. VALLEJO.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SUTTER "GENERAL TITLE"</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TRANSLATION OF SUTTER GENERAL LAND TITLE.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Manuel Micheltorena, Brigadier General of the Mexican Army, Adjutant-General of the same, Governor, Commandant-General and Inspector of the Department of the Californias.</P>
046.sgm:<P>This Supreme Departmental Government, not being able at this time, on account of being excessively occupied, to extend one by one the respective titles to all the citizens who have solicited lands with a favorable report to Senor Don Augustus Sutter, Captain and Judge, charged with the jurisdiction of New Helvetia and Sacramento, in the name of the Mexican Nation I grant by these letters to them and their families the ownership of the respective lands described in their petitions and maps, to all and to each one of those who may have solicited and obtained the favorable report of said Don Augustus Sutter, up to the day of this date, so that no one can dispute their ownership,--a copy of this, which Senor Sutter shall soon after give them, serving as a formal title, with which they will present themselves to this Government to have extended to them the same title in due form and on corresponding stamped paper and that in due testimony hereof for all time I give this document which shall be acknowledged and respected by all authorities, civil, and military, of the Mexican Nation in this and the other departments, it being duly authenticated by the Military seal and that of the Government in Monterey on the twenty-second day of December, one thousand eight hundred and forty-four.      MANUEL MICHELTORENA.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I certify that this is a copy. New Helvetia, June 8, 1846. J. A. SUTTER.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LETTER FROM JOHN A. SUTTER</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ADDRESS OF MAJOR JOHN BIDWELL.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Transactions of the State Agricultural Society. 1860.</P>
046.sgm:<P>At eight o'clock last evening the President of the Society called the large concourse of visitors on the main floor to order, and after premising the importance of remaining still during the exercises, to the end that the speaker's voice might be heard throughout the hall, he introduced the orator of the evening, Major John Bidwell of Chico, who proceeded to deliver the following:</P>
046.sgm:<P>ANNUAL ADDRESS.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When we call to mind the early discovery of the western coast of America, we can but express our astonishment that California should have remained so long unnoticed and really unknown. Discovered in fifteen hundred and forty-two by the Spaniards, visited by Sir Francis Drake in fifteen hundred and seventy-nine, and by Viscayno in sixteen hundred and two, more than one hundred and sixty years elapsed before the Missions of upper California were established, or the coast frequented again. It seems almost incredible, while European nations poured in upon the New World, peopled even the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>We have now fairly set out upon our career as an independent State, and its guidance and destiny, with the momentous consequences, are committed to our charge. Previous to the Mexican war, the white population of California were confined principally to a narrow belt--from twenty to thirty miles wide--along the coast, extending from Russian River to San Diego. They were generous and hospitable, living in a state of pastoral civilization, and had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The principles of political economy require that a nation should produce ali the necessaries, conveniences, ornaments, and luxuries of life, in order to guard against the contigencies of war and famine. And thus California, although one of the sovereign States, and entitled as such to the protection of the National Government, should, on account of her distant and almost isolated position, become more self-sustaining and self-reliant than any other member of the Federal Union. It is, therefore, a matter of congratulation to know that, although in the beginning of our existence as a State, we are not only advancing, but have really accomplished much, however much remains to be done.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>If we were to cease to cultivate the soil and depend as formerly on supplies from abroad, the additional exportation of treasure would drain the last dollar from the whole country. We have now arrived at a point which enables us to see that the mines would almost ceased to be worked, and the golden fountain which supplies the world with currency dried up, were it not for the products already derived from agricultural industry. And the same point of observation enables us to see, further, that our agricultural prosperity is dependent on the mines for a market, as is also the manufacturing and mercantile, showing a mutual dependence on each other. They were established at the same time, have grown up together, one has promoted the other, and this society in its wisdom extends like encouragement to all of them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But in every well regulated State, agriculture must ever be deemed the paramount interest, because it furnishes the necessaries of life, food and raiment, on which all depend, and without which no government, or society, can exist. It is a safeguard against the contigencies of war and famine, and should ever be the pride of the people and receive the fostering care of the government. I stated that we had alread accomplished much, and were still progressing. But we must not be content to barely progress, and rely upon the fertility of our soil without an effort to improve it. It is true our advantages are great. We have millions of acres unsurpassed in fertility, producing grain almost spontaneously; and yet it does not become us to look always to the fairest side of things, for there is no country capable of a higher degree of improvement, or that will better reward the labor bestowed upon it, than California. We were never made to be idle, and it is a blessing that we can find so much to do, because we require exercise to promote our health, and occupation to make us contented. All that California needs is intelligent labor to make it what nature designed it should be, the most delightful abode of man on earth. To carry out the great purposes we have in view, we must inquire what we want and what we can do. In many things we may judge of the future by the past, but our early history is in many respects exceptional to general rules.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We want accessions of industrious people, not to come with inflated hopes and extravagant anticipations based upon the prices and chances of eighteen hundred and forty-nine--those days are gone, never to return--but come with their families and household goods and all they hold most dear, to settle down permanently and make and call this country their home; to throw away the idea of sudden riches, which is to come by chance, and then of leaving the country; and first seek to obtain a comfortable living and educate their children--nothing more. Such would soon find their prospects based on something more substantial than the fleeting realities of eighteen hundred and forty-nine. With the frugality and industry required to make a comfortable living in the Atlantic States, in a few years they would find their means, however small at first, expanding to easy circumstances and finally to opulence. The development of vast mining regions and of the wonderful capabilities of our soil, the establishment and growth of home manufactures, and the expansion of our commerce, are all intimately connected with the question of population. It is true, we produce a sufficiency, even a surplus, of some things; but we seem prone to extremes and inconsistencies. For instance, we have this year raised twice as much wheat as we know what to do with, and more than can be sold, even at ruinous rates, because there is but a limited demand: our home market is not adequate, because we produce too much of one thing and not enough of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>California is emphatically the land of the vine; and can there be any doubt that we can produce the finest wines? This is an important question, because we are actually importing in casks, barrels, baskets and cases, millions of gallons every year. And yet it is admitted that there is not a land beneath the sun better suited to grape culture than California. The name of Los Angeles is as famous for wine and for the grape as that of California for gold. But the grape flourishes well everywhere, and its cultivation is being extended all over the State.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But I must not here omit to state that laudable and, it is to be hoped, well remunerated enterprise has already begun the good work, and sent abroad an article which compares favorably and is able to compete with the best wines in Europe.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Of peaches and pears it would be vain to attempt description that would be credited abroad--to be appreciated they must be seen. No country can equal much less surpass them. The unbounded enterprise of our horticulturists, has done wonders in supplying the country with these as well as all other kinds of fruit, and to them the gratitude of the State is due for a large share of her prosperity and renown. No branch of industry yields a greater share of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>We are importing a hundred thousand dollars in figs and raisins almost every year, which can and should, and, by the aid of horticultural enterprise, will be with us as a home production.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We have not less than a million head of cattle, and our plains, pastures, and even highways, are beginning to swarm with porcine life, and yet we export one million dollars annually to pay for butter, and five hundred thousand dollars for lard.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We want a permanent population, and the faster they come the sooner we shall be able to remedy all these things and supply not only our own demands, but have a surplus to export and exchange for those necessaries, tea, sugar, coffee, and other tropical productions which may not be found a profitable staple suited to the conditions of the soil and climate of our latitude.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But of all the products which bounteous nature affords for the use of man, none can rank in importance with the grasses, embracing as they do, the cereals; and of these, that which is to us the staff of life leads all the rest. In the production of wheat, no country can claim to equal the Pacific Coast of North America--California and Oregon. No land beneath the star-lit canopy can exhibit such proof of the especial favor of Ceres. If we sow, we are sure to reap, and, as often as any way, we reap without sowing at all. Six months of almost unbroken sunshine are given for harvest. With all these favors from the gods above, nothing would invite us to idleness--man must furnish what the gods have left undone.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>In order to stay the progress of this fearful evil, before it spreads universal desolation over this, the fairest of earth's fair climes, by changing our harvests from golden grain to black and sickening dust, we should invoke the aid of science to analyze the soil and its productions, at different periods and under various conditions. We should become thoroughly versed in vegetable chemistry, and the anatomy and physiology of plants.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We should bring together, compare and combine our varied experiences, and thus continue to do, till our efforts have been crowned with success. He who shall discover a sure antidote to this apparently unconquerable evil, will deserve to have his name enrolled high on the list of those who have earned the proud title of benefactor of mankind.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It will, doubtless, accord with the experience of many farmers that grain, especially wheat, in California, is generally sown too thick, and when this is the case, the product is inferior in quality, and very often in quantity, and is, besides, very exhaustive of the soil. Perhaps by sowing thick, especially if the soil is very rich, a larger yield could be obtained for a few years, but then by so doing, we should the sooner exhaust its strength. On the same principle, we might add to the loads of our beasts of burden, but by the operation, we might the sooner break them down.</P>
046.sgm:<P>An important point in grain culture, and which will always distinguish a good, from a bad, farmer, is the early sowing and planting of his crops--that is to say, everything in its season. Wheat should be sown before the rains set in, or immediately after the first rain in October, or November, as the case may be, that it may receive the benefit of all the moisture which falls upon the ground. Otherwise, in a dry season, it might fall altogether. Late sown grain may do well in some seasons when a great deal of rain falls in the spring, especially in the month of April, but such seasons are exceptional, and must not be taken as a general rule.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The practice of volunteering grain is not to be recommended. It is apt to be choked by the weeds, and when harvested, is full of impurities; besides, it leaves the ground in a foul condition.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our success in raising to the greatest perfection this, the most valuable staple of the world, involves the momentous question of our capacity to augment the production with the increasing demand for the staff of life, till we prove to the people of other lands what we have already begun to exhibit, and what we can justly claim, that ours is the granary of the Pacific hemisphere.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Nothing adds more to the value of the land, or the salubrity and beauty of a country, than properly constructed rural improvements. The farmer should drain off stagnant water; save his fertilizers and spread them upon his fields; plant along the roadsides, contiguous to his place, useful and ornamental trees, to beautify the landscape, and protect the passerby from the rays of the beaming sun. He should construct reservoirs and channels, to preserve surplus waters for irrigation, or conduct them away, to improve the healthfulness of his location. Above all, for his reputation as a farmer, and as he values his own peace of mind, the friendship of neighbors, and the preservation of his crops, it should be an object of primary importance to construct good fences. The style and material must depend on circumstances and his own good taste. Nothing displays the character, the thrift, the good judgment, or the negligence, unskillfulness, or slothfulness, of a people with more certainty than the condition of their fences. These indicate the prosperity or decline of agriculture and give character and consideration to whole regions of country. It may be remarked that anything will do for a fence which will turn hogs and cattle, but ditches should not be resorted to if the country abounds in squirrels, for by so doing, they are invited to burrow around the fields, and destroy the crops.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>And there are many reasons why California should adopt this system of agriculture. First, land could be better preserved in all its original productiveness; and it would be far better to do thus, than to impoverish the soil, and then, at great expense, attempt to restore it. Second, every farmer is obliged to raise, or keep, a certain amount of cattle and horses, and perhaps, hogs and sheep, and he should provide an abundance of hay and pasture land to guard against the contingency of exceedingly dry seasons. It is true that dry seasons do not occur very frequently; but, nevertheless, they should be provided against, and not allowed to come upon us unprepared, and sweep three-fourths of all our stock away in a single year. There has been no dry season since eighteen hundred and forty-four, but, as it happened then, so may it happen again. Our valleys and mountains are teeming with bovine and equine life, and in such a year as eighteen hundred and forty-four, if it were to come suddenly upon us, hundreds of thousands, perhaps nearly all our stock would perish by starvation. California never had so many cattle, horses and other stock as at the present time, and hence the importance of ascertaining and cultivating the best grasses and forage crops adapted to our soil and climate. Alfalfa sown and properly attended to on our ordinary alluvial soils, will remain as green and luxuriant in September as in May, and during the whole year, producing ten times the quantity of forage, in the shape of hay and pasture, as would grow from the native grasses and forage plants without cultivation. The native grasses of California are not generally perennial, and consequently, by being mown and closely pastured, they are fast disappearing from existence. Hence the necessity of substituting something better in their places.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The time will soon arrive--aye the time has arrived--when large bands of cattle and horses of inferior breeds and poorly attended, will cease to be remunerative. The time is already at hand when it will be to the interest of stock growers to raise one-fourth the number which they now struggle to maintain, by driving them periodically from mountain to valley, and from valley to mountain, but of finer breeds, which are immensely more valuable and cost no more to be fed, or taken care of. And it is gratifying to know that in this as well as other useful pursuits, California by no means occupies a position in the background, and will, ere long, be far in advance of all her sister States. The unbounded enterprise of her citizens demand, as they have a right to do, in exchange for her precious treasure, the choicest of all the earth affords, both in the animal and vegetable kingdoms, with which to replenish her valleys and her hills, her plains and her mountains, and to enrich and adorn her fair proportions. As lands in California are, in obedience to the laws of necessity, gradually becoming subdivided, and as finer cattle replace the wild stock, so the finer breeds of horses are fast superseding the wild ones. The horse is the noblest and most beautiful animal that walks the earth. His fleetness, strength and docility distinguish him above all others. Even the California horse, the decendant of the Moorish stock in Spain, so well adapted to the purposes of the country in earlier times, possesses these noble qualities in a very high degree. But he, too. must yield to the march of civilization. So, too, with all the animals of the country: they are all fast yielding to superior importations from distant lands. The poor Indian forms no exception; he, too, is fading away, and will soon be out of existence.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The space which I have allotted myself will not permit extended notice of many useful things which deeply concern our prosperity. It is important that the useful as well as the ornamental timber regions of California should not be wastefully destroyed. In order to preserve the beautiful groves of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>But agriculture in California, as in other countries, is vastly indebted to the mechanic arts for the ease and success with which the farmer is now able to perform his rurai labors. Witness the plow, the cultivators, the reapers, the threshers, the engines, and say if California is behind in inventive skill and enterprise. He who, in the face of high labor and many other obstacles, has established and successfully carried on manufacturing branches of industry, for the purpose of supplying home demands, has helped to create the country, and to a patriot and useful member of the State, and is deserving of the patronage and the grateful thanks of the people.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The capacity of California to sustain a vast population, is beyond dispute. Our markets, in size, quality, and variety of fruits and vegetables, challenge the world. To describe them is unnecessary. They are known at home, and a true description would not be believed abroad. We have a population of nearly five hundred thousand, and they are amply supplied with all these necessaries, as well as bread and meat and many of the luxuries; and yet we have not developed one fiftieth part, have not cultivated one acre in fifty to produce them. There is no question that the State of California alone is capable of yielding the necessaries and most of the luxuries to sustain twenty millions of people, when all her resources shall have been explored and improved--her fisheries, her mountain slopes and valleys--when broad canals shall intersect to drain and transport the enormous produce to be realized from our tule lands.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It may seem bold to say that the immense tracts of arid and apparently sterile lands which border the valleys and guard the bases of our mountains will ever be mantled with verdure. And yet we have all seen the beautiful cottages peeping through dense foliage of shrubbery, fruit and ornamental trees, which are already rising up as if by magic, to gem, like islands of green these same dusky, sunburnt plains. If these scenes appear in a few places, they must eventually appear in hundreds and thousands; it is only a question of time and population. When we, as a State, shall begin to number millions of people--when our metroplis shall become, in point of trade, what it seems destined to do--perhaps, even in our day, the fifth, or sixth city of the globe--when the grand continental railway, on which are centered our anxious hopes, shall have united the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and become, as it surely will, a link in the grand highway around the globe, as well as the best and most speedy route from Europe to Australia, Japan, and Eastern Asia--when the rugged mountains and barren wastes which lie adjacent to the Sierra Nevada and Rocky Mountains shall have disclosed their mineral treasures and become peopled with a million of industrious miners--and when magnificent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>And now, Mr. President, having witnessed the past and ventured to look forward towards a hopeful future, I beg to say that it is with pleasure and with pride that I now behold, not the nucleus of the new and sparsely settled colony, where the germ of civilization is just beginning to bud--not merely the center of a rude population of ten, or fifteen years' growth, but the apparent center of an empire--the center of a great and flourishing State, having all the signs of wealth, commerce, refinement, and a vigorous and cultivated growth, displaying almost every product which industry can earn, or refinement enjoy--not regressive, or stationary, but in a state of healthy and permanent advancement.</P>
046.sgm:<P>And to what shall we ascribe the cause of all this change? What has changed the tumultuous scenes of eighteen hundred and forty-nine--the gambling hells that made night hideous in almost every town, or public place --from a moral chaos to order, the abodes of virtue, refinement and civilization? Certainly not the temporary multitude who rushed in by hundreds of thousands to grasp our golden treasures and go away--but to the permanent citizens, the families, the presence of lovely woman, and the arts, sciences, and institutions, which have caused to be established here.</P>
046.sgm:<P>An finally, Mr. President, of all your institutions, none has greater claims for usefulness and on the gratitude of the people, and none portray with more certainty the energy, the genius, the skill, the industry, and the intelligence of your people, than this noble temple erected to the genius of agriculture. Its founders, and those who sustain and perpetuate it, demand no praise of me. To them these fruits and flowers, this golden grain, these works of art and skill, these stately walls and this bannered canopy, are a more glorious monument.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN BIDWELL'S SECOND MILL.  ERECTED 1854</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>JOHN BIDWELL'S UNION SPEECH.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>From Alta-California, June 23, 1861.</P>
046.sgm:<P>John Bidwell, late a Breckenridge, and now a member of the Douglass Party, made the following remarks before the Douglass County Convention of Butte county:</P>
046.sgm:<P>"Our meeting on this occasion has been under circumstances of more than usual importance. I cordially endorse the Union sentiments we have just heard so eloquently expressed and yield to no man in devotion to our common country. In the present crisis there can be but one issue--our Government must be sustained or it will go down. There can be no middle ground. He who is not for it is against it. Such was our progress in all the attributes of national greatness and power, that no statesman, however wise, no human sagacity, however profound, could have formed the least conception of the high position we were destined to hold among the powers of the globe. Must all this be lost to us and to the world?</P>
046.sgm:<P>Shall we aid the madness and folly that now seeks the destruction of the greatest and best government ever devised by human wisdom? No loyal citizen can give but one response. The laws must be executed and the government sustained at every hazard--no matter by whom administered. It is now 20 years since I crossed the parched and trackless waste which then separated the Atlantic from the Pacific slope of the continent. I have learned to appreciate the advantages of a free and efficient government and I feel in this hour of peril more determined than ever before in my devotion to my country."</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE "OLD ADOBE" 1858</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ANNUAL ADDRESS DELIVERED AT THE ANNUAL FAIR OF THE AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF THE NORTHERN DISTRICT OF CALIFORNIA, AUGUST 20, 1865,</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>By Gen. John Bidwell, of Chico.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mr. President, Officers, and Members of the Agricultural, Horticultural, and Mechanics' Society of the Northern District of California:</P>
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046.sgm:<P>Eighteen hundred and seventy <HSEP> 42,000,000 Eighteen hundred and eighty <HSEP> 56,000,000 Eighteen hundred and ninety <HSEP> 77,000,000 Nineteen hundred <HSEP> 100,000,000</P>
046.sgm:<P>But rapid and healthful as has been the growth of population in the past, and amazing as it promises to be in the future, the increase of wealth has been and promises to continue to be still more wonderful. The value of real estate and personal property in the United States in eighteen hundred and fifty amounted to seven thousand one hundred and thirty-five million seven hundered and eighty thousand two hundred and twenty-eight dollars; in eighteen hundred and sixty it had more than doubled, and reached the vast sum of sixteen thousand one hundred and fifty-nine million six hundred and sixteen thousand and sixty-eight dollars, the ratio of increase being over one hundred and twenty-six per centum in the space of ten years.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In eighteen hundred and thirty scarcely a railroad had been begun in the United States, but in a few years we led the van in this, as in nearly all other improvements. In eighteen hundred and thirty-eight we had constructed and in operation eighteen hundred and forty-three miles of railroad and from this point mark the improvement. We had in</P>
046.sgm:<P>Year.<HSEP>Miles. Eighteen hundred and forty<HSEP> 2,167 Eighteen hundred and forty-two <HSEP> 4,862 Eighteen hundred and forty-eight<HSEP> 6,491 Eighteen hundred and fifty <HSEP> 8,827 Eighteen hundred and sixty <HSEP>31,185</P>
046.sgm:<P>Thus it will be seen that in the ten years immediately preceding the last date--eighteen hundred and sixty--over twenty-two thousand miles, were built and put into operation, making an aggregate extent of more than thirty-one thousand miles of railway in the United States, or over six thousand miles more than would be required, if placed in a line, to encircle the globe.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But the agricultural productions of our country exhibit, too, a marked activity and advancement. The yield of wheat amounted in eighteen hundred and fifty, to one hundred million four hundred and eighty-five thousand nine hundred and forty-four bushels. In eighteen hundred and sixty it rose to one hundred and seventy-one million one hundred and eighty-three thousand three hundered and eighty-one bushels. All other agricultural products exhibit similar or proportional results.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But how is it with our manufactures? We will examine the latest reliable authority on the point. The Superintendent, in his preliminary report on the census of eighteen hundred and sixty says: "The total value of domestic manufactures (including fisheries and the products of the mines) according to the census of eighteen hundred and fifty, was one thousand and nineteen million one hundred and six thousand six hundred and sixteen dollars. The product of the same branches for the year ending June first, eighteen hundred and sixty, as already ascertained in part and carefully estimated for the remainder, will reach an aggregate value of nineteen hundred millions of dollars. The result exhibits an increase of more than eighty-six per centum in ten years."</P>
046.sgm:<P>I have made these references to the manufactures, railroads, agriculture, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:population, and wealth of the United states, in order to show that, in material development we do possess the inherent and unmistakable elements and prestige of permanent progress. This is no fancy sketch, but a reality so apparent to every one that he who runs may read. It cannot be dented that the late war which threatened the existence of our governmental fabric, was a heavy blow to our prosperity. And let us hope that, an the past can never be recalled, so may fraternal war never return to deluge our happy land in blood. Let us regulate our actions and policy upon the principle that,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Peace hath her victories,<LB>No less renowned than war;"</HI>
046.sgm:<P>and may that Providence who guideth the destinies of nations inspire us with prudence and wisdom to establish our future career upon the solid foundations of truth and justice, as the only true way to preserve enduring peace. Nothing short of the preservation of our national existence or national honor should impel us to resort to the arbitrament of the sword. The blow was heavy, but we have emerged from the contest with strength and confidence greater than when the war began, and with the brightest hopes for the future. Circumstances have changed; a new and better order of things, we believe, has taken place, and we begin to march towards the future under promising but different auspices. The gushing sources of our former prosperity have not been annihilated, not dried up. Our national boundaries embrace the same expanse of domain. We face upon the two great oceans of the world, with ever twelve thousand miles of shore line, and a greater extent of inland naviation than all Europe. We have within these boundaries nineteen hundred millions of acres of arable, grazing and mineral lands. Of this vast area there are but five hundred millions of acres of the most fertile and productive soil on the globe. The most recent reliable data show that less than two hundred millions of acres are embraced in improved farms; showing a balance of over three hundred millions of acres awaiting the creative energy of labor to transform them into abodes of wealth and civilization. It was not unreasonable to suppose that, while recuperating from the effects of the war, we should remain for a time apparently stationary. But already signs of returning prosperity appear. The statistics of the port of New York for the first six months of the present year give clear indications of improvement in the right direction, as will be seen by the following table from the report of the Commissioner of the Department of Agriculture for the months of June and July, eighteen hundred and sixty-five:</P>
046.sgm:<P>TOTAL IMPORTS.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Of Dry Goods and General Merchandise at New York from January first to July first, and Exports at the same place and for the same time.</P>
046.sgm:<P>1863.<HSEP>     1864.<HSEP>   1865. Total imports<HSEP>$  90,107,715    $129,311,035   $ 70,542,220 Total exports, exclusive of specie<HSEP>.  95,117,505      92,747,942     80,693,722 Total exports of specie<HSEP> 20,587,619      29,268,846     17,988,916</P>
046.sgm:<P>There are abundant resources to establish the belief that our volumne of material wealth, as measured by the statistics of eighteen hundred and sixty, in fast returning, and that, too, before we have scarcely time to realize that we are in a state of peace. The indications are truly encouraging. There is not a shade of doubt that our national debt of three thousand millions of dollars can be borne without feeling the burden to be oppresive. I will not pause to argue the question whether or not this enormous amount can be made to operate as a national blessing. It is sufficient to know that the faith and honor of the nation are pledged to its redemption, that we have abundant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>But great as have been the results of the discovery of the precious metals --the impulse given to the world's march, or the particular benefit to our own country at a most opportune period--we cannot ignore the fact, that agriculture is the foundation, and, therefore, the most important of all other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>But I will not deny that, with all these advantages of fertility, salubrity, fruitfulness and many more impossible for me now to specify, there is room for vast expansion, and a field that would require the labor of millions to develop.</P>
046.sgm:<P>All that is wanted is a market for what we can produce, and an abundance of skillful and intelligent labor. If we could sell everything we could produce here, the labor would naturally flow in this direction and fill the vacuum created by the demand for production. As it is, there are many causes which tend to postpone the attainment of all that we desire, and which address themselves to everyone whose hopes and prospects are identified with the Pacific Coast. It is not wise to bask always in the sunshine, and contemplate only the bright side of the circumstances that surround us. Even in the most favored lands there are clouds that overcast the skies, but unveiled brightness is beaming above them. Labor is the greatest desideratum of the Pacific States and Territories. We must have a greater population to supply that labor. Business becomes at times so dull, and money so scarce, that we can hardly pay our taxes, much less our debts, and find means to expend in improvements. Our seasons, in the opinion of some who are not acquainted with all the circumstances and conditions, are too wet, or too dry; and millions of acres, only arid and apparently sterile, they imagine to be worthless. Another drawback to our prosperity is, they say, there is a large number of non-producers. They are found all over the country, on the ranches, in the saloons, of our towns and cities, almost everywhere. As they are not inclined to work, they must of necessity live off the labor of those who do work. These are some of the clouds that lower to our horizon.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In answer to all these evils, I must be permitted to state that no country upon earth, not even our beautiful and lovely California, is free from imperfections. The world was not made, finished and ready to be enjoyed, without the labor of intelligent beings to do what nature left undone and designed for them to do. I know there are many idle people in California, who do not pretend to work at all, and some who do pretend, scarcely more than half work. I do not believe there are any of that sort here, because such people would not have enough ambition to get here. The warm climate, and the little labor requisite to obtain the necessaries of life, do, no doubt, invite to idleness. Now, I can speak from experience, when I say there is no necessity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Now, Mr. President, whether from the fact of our living in what was once a Spanish American territory, and coming in contact with people who introduced pastoral habits from Spain, those habits are beginning to tell on us, I will not pretend to determine. Certain it is that as a general rule no more enterprising people ever existed than those who have come to California since the discovery of gold. They have explored nearly every nook and corner of the Pacific Slope. No danger has been sufficient to check their explorations. They have brought to light hidden treasures that have astonished and almost revolutionized the commerce of the world. Their herculean efforts are literally moving the mountains toward the sea. They have built cities, towns and villages innumerable, and been the pioneers of civilization all over the Pacific Coast, from Arizona to Cariboo. They have carved States and Territories from the regions of former savage desolation, and made the deserts to bud and blossom as the rose. I have an abiding faith in the Anglo-Saxon race. I believe they can do and perform wonders, and even withstand the allurements to idleness of this or any other climate. I speak of them as a class, of course, and believe a noble destiny awaits them in the future.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In regard to the dullness and stagnation of business, which from time to time pervade the land, there are many causes and many remedies. We should ask ourselves: Do we not continue to practice the habits we assumed in former and flusher times, and thereby live beyond the legitimate bounds of our present available resources? It is true, too, that the scarcity of money, and the high rates of interest which capital commands, precludes the possibility of engaging in many enterprises for the development of mines and the improvement of the material resources of the State, but we can and ought to produce more than we do, even with our present means and the present high <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>But a few years ago nearly all the farmers in this valley, and I among the rest, purchased nearly all the butter they used--butter that had been imported across the Isthmus of Panama, or around Cape Horn. Some of it seemed old enough to have made a voyage around the world. I became ashamed of it, and resolved that if I could not, with thousands of cattle, which I had at that time, make sufficient butter to supply my own family--and my family is large, over fifty, and sometimes a hundred in number--I would do without it. And with many other things I have made similar resolves; and I am happy to be able to say that they have resulted in success. If the whole State, aroused to the importance of decreasing importations, which deplete our purses and absorb the means that would give us prosperity and independence, would make a firm resolve to manufacture more of many things or do without them, the result would be an impetus to all branches of industry that would revolutionize the condition of things and banish complaint from our shores.</P>
046.sgm:<P>However similar the pastoral habits of the early pioneers to this coast may be to those of Spain, as before alluded to, the comparison does not hold true in regard to the physical features--while in most parts of Spain the heat of the climate, as mentioned by the historian, renders it impossible for the laborer to work the whole day, and the climate itself, from certain causes, was habitualy unhealthy, and the aridity of the soil could not, on acount of obstacles in the way of irrigation, be overcome; here in California labor is performed even in the most sultry valleys during all hours of the day and at all seasons of the year. On my farm at Chico, in this valley, where we claim to have a reasonable degree of heat, especialy in the time of harvest, I can scarcely remember an instance of a hand bcoming sick in the harvest field. Perhaps some will say we do not kill ourselves with work at Chico. In reply, I will answer that we do not; and what is more, we do not intend to do so. I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Now then, can men work in this valley? You have my answer, which is the best proof I am able to give. It is true the climate in some loalities is somewhat miasmatic and productive of intermittent fevers, but the causes local and transient in their character, can and will be removed. Until this can be accomplished, I would suggest that residences in such localities should be so constructed as to afford sleeping apartments in the upper story, and thus enable the dwellers along the margins of rivers, and in the vicinity of sloughs and tule lands, to escape from inhaling the lowest stratum of air during the night. In regard to the aridity of certain portions of this State, and the apparent sterility of large tracs of land above referred to, we have the means of their complete reclamation at hand. The great remedy is irrigation. Different from Spain, all the streams of this valley, even our largest rivers, can be made available for purposes of irrigation.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>The rearing of domestic animals is another subject which commends itself to the attention of all who feel interested in the welfare of the State. It cannot have escaped the observation of those engaged in rearing stock in California that the indigenous grasses, once so abundant as to pasture thousands of animals where only hundreds are able to subsist now, are fast disappearing from the plains. This is attributable no doubt to excessive grazing, especially by sheep and horses, which destroy the seed, and consequently the essential condition of reproduction. Weeds spring up and encumber the ground and stock disappear. That these grasses can ever be restored in their original excellence is, to me, extremely prolematical. Whether any forage plant can be found that will grow upon our hills and plains, and become a profitable substitute for the original grasses, remains for the future to bring forth.</P>
046.sgm:<P>There must be a remedy somewhere in nature, but who will discover it? He who should succeed in making the discovery would be a benefactor to his race, and deserve the lasting gratitude of this country. Till this can be accomplished, it becomes us to be careful of the grazing capabilities of our land, otherwise we destroy what cannot be replaced. Hence arises the necessity, if no higher motive, of rearing breeds of finer blood, and diminishing the scrub races that have to such an alarming extent heretofore destroyed the grasses to little profit. There is another fact in connection with the subject of raising stock which deserves to be noticed. When pasture lands are not overfed so as to eradicate, and there is an abundance of pasture for stock in winter, it sometimes occurs that we have hard winters--cold weather, and some snow, that render it absolutely necessary to be prepared to feed stock, say at least one month, if we would be certain to save them. During a residence here of twenty-four years, I have witnessed but one such season--then there were from six to eight inches of snow, which lay in this valley for nearly a month. I feel it a duty to place this warning upon record, because what has once transpired is sure to occur again. I have seen also one, and only one, really dry season--that was eighteen hundred and forty-four. You have so recently seen the effects of dry seasons, especially in the southern part of the State, it is necessary only to make this passing allusion.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The subject of establishing agricultural schools and colleges, where the arts and sciences applicable to practical farming can be acquired for the benefit of the present as well as the future generations, is one of momentous importance, and I commend it to your earnest consideration. The subject of useful inventions is one of so much interest and about which so much is daily written and spoken, that it would be superogatory to attempt to impart anything new to this intelligent audience; and even if I could do so, I should fail for want of time. I will only say that steam threshers, steam ploughs, spading machines, with perhaps hundreds of other inventions, are worthy of the consideration of every agriculturalist. If there is any one art progressing more than another by the aid of science and invention, that art is agriculture. No other calling is capable or is susceptible of greater improvements, no other profession is more respectable. Labor, it is admitted, is the true source of wealth and must be free in order to be intelligent and honorable. Of all things <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Finally, Mr. President, I return to you and the officers and members of this society, and to the ladies who have honored the occasion with their lovely presence, and to all others who have to worship at this noble shrine of industry, my greatful thanks.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>EPITOME OF RANCHO CHICO TITLE</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FOURTEENTH ANNUAL STATE FAIR.--Third Day.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO, September 11, 1867.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The rush of strangers continues, and it is beyond doubt that this is the largest attendance of visitors ever drawn to Sacramento by the State Fair or any other attraction. At a meeting of the Board of Directors of the Agricultural Society, held last evening, it was unanimously resolved to continue the Fair till Wednesday of next week. This action will give universal satisfaction, and is an evidence of the great success of the exhibition.</P>
046.sgm:<P>About half-past eight o'clock, the President of the Society, Charles F. Reed, introduced General John Bidwell, who was enthusiastically received.</P>
046.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Address of John Bidwell.</HI>
046.sgm:<P>Mr. President, Ladies and Gentlemen: Ordinarily an individual ought not to shrink from discharging the duties of any honorable position he may be called upon to occupy. On the contrary, it is and should be esteemed by every one an honor to be permitted to aid, to the extent of his capacity and opportunity, in useful and laudable undertakings. Whatever a man may engage to do, be it much or little, be it in the lowly rounds of common toil, or in stately halls, exposed to the public gaze, be ought to labor with all his might, and bring to the task earnestness and sincerity of purpose. This to all I have to claim at the hands of an indulgent audience, for my errors may be too numerousous, my offenses too grave, however unintentional, to receive excuse or pardon. I assure you, Mr. President, that I feel duly grateful for the honor conferred upon me by your Society. I believe, sir, that I appreciate the responsibility assumed, by the acceptance of your distinguished invitation to deliver the annual address on this occasion, but I feel constrained to acknowledge that I approach the task with much embarrassment and many misgivings as to my ability to offer anything instructive or interesting, much less new, upon a subject so old and so important as that of agriculture and kindred branches of industry with which it is inseparably connected. I cannot, then, say that I hope to meet, to any considerable degree, your just expectations. Whatever I may utter, however, shall be uttered in good faith. I profess a deep desire, if in my power, to serve the best interests of the State. However short of the mark I may fall, my aim shall be at usefulness rather than display.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Agriculture is the first and most important occupation of man, and embraces, in the general and practical idea of rural employment, both the cultivation of the soil and the rearing of useful animals. It is old as sacred history, and may be said to date from the creation of man. "And the Lord God planted a garden eastward in Eden." Thus the Creator himself set the first example for man to imitate--a decree which in all ages he has been forced to obey or suffer the penalty. Man must plant or he cannot reap--he must earn his food or suffer the pains of hunger. Many of the prominent names of sacred history are identified with rural labors. Noah was a husbandman, and "planted a vineyard." "Abraham was very rich in cattle," a he "planted a grove in Beer-sheba." Lot "had flocks, and herds, and tents." "Moses kept the flock of Jethro, his father-in-law." David was chosen and taken "from the sheepfolds." Solomon planted "vineyards" and made himself "gardens and orchards." Elisha was "plowing with twelve yoke of oxen before him." But time will not suffice for prolonged exemplifications, which might be extended from ancient to modern times through all authentic history, and present an imposing array of illustrious names who have practiced or encouraged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>But I was endeavoring to call attention to the swamp lands and tule marshes, lying, as it were, in the very center of this great central valley, and a question of momentous interest to the State inseparably connected with them, namely, the possibility of their successful reclamation. On the practical solution of this problem depends the salubrity of many localities, and, to a vast extent, the wealth and prosperity of the State. The great central figure of the State, if I may use the term, is this grand and gorgeous valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin. And it is a real valley--not like the monotonous and common-place tracts of country drained by certain streams and known in the Atlantic States and other parts of the world as valleys; but a real valley, traversed by noble streams and surrounded by magnificent mountains, and on a scale so ample that, literally,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>--"distance lends enchantment to the view,<LB>And robes the mountain in its azure hue."</HI>
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046.sgm:<P>It is not possible on an occasion like this, or within the scope of an ordinary address, to enter into detail or even indicate anything more than a few general ideas respecting such a plan as must necessarily be, required for so great a work. My suggestions are given for what they are worth. I therefore may be permitted to say, generally, that I believe the floods and inundations before named can in a great measure, if not entirely, be prevented; and, consquently, that the swamp and tule lands can be reclaimed, by the use of three co-operative works or measures: First, the building of reservoirs at all feasible points, to retain the waters in the mountains; second, the construction of canals, so made as to occupy the shortest possible distance between their termini, in order to secure the greatest possible amount of fall to a given distance, and thereby the discharge of the largest possible quantity of water by a canal or channel of given dimensions--and also in order to economy; third, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The Chinese are known to have practiced for many centuries both drainage and irrigation. It is said that "no other country can boast of an equal length of artificial water communication," and that in the construction of canals the two leading objects which they always kept in view were drainage and irrigation--that of navigation being entirely a secondary one. Some of their canals are of great length and prodigious dimensions. The one connecting the city of Pekin with the Yangtse-Kiang river is said to be from 200 to 1000 feet in width and over 600 miles in length. Perhaps the Chinese, should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>All running waters contain more or less organic and other fertilizing matter in a state of solution. The farther they run, and especially through alluvial regions, the more impregnated they become, and consequently more beneficial when required for irrigation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Some parts of our own country are naturally so dry in Summer as to require to be irrigated even for cereals--for example, Salt Lake Valley, in Utah Territory. There are many other places in several of the States and Territories, and even within our own State, which can only be rendered productive and made to supply the wants of a vast population by a proper application of water. I am bold to assert it as my belief, founded upon obseravtion, that the development of the agricultural capabilities of this State has hardly begun; and yet California has acquired a reputation for fertility and productiveness that is world-wide. An extensive and judicious system of irrigation is, in my judgment, the only thing that will ever enable the State to attain its highest development. All lands, as I have said before, do not require to be irrigated--some must even be drained--but I speak generally when I say that, sooner or later, the necessities of a growing population will demand increased production, and that this can only be brought about to the fullest extent of which the land is capable, in the way I have suggested. This subject is therefore of vital importance to the agricultural interest of our State.</P>
046.sgm:<P>There is a vast aggregate amount of land belonging to the United States, lying between the summit of the Sierra Nevada Mountains and the sea-coast, which can be made available only by a judicious application of water. We see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>There may be said to be, in the world two systems of agriculture, which have been adopted by different nations according to the peculiarities of soil and climate. These systems may be denominated as the Northern and Southern systems. Both have come to California, but by different routes; both are destined to be useful. Here may be said to be a common field where each, separately or both combined, may be beneficially employed. The Southern system originated in warm, dry climates where irrigation was indispensable. It was practiced in Palestine, Arabia and all the dry countries bordering on the Mediterranean, and found its way here from Spain and Mexico. The other system is derived from Middle and Northern Europe, where the climate and soil are such as to render irrigation less and drainage more a necessity, but both generally dispensable in ordinary seasons. This system accompanied our forefathers from Europe to America, and has traveled westward with our advancing columns till it came with us to the Pacific Coast. Both these systems, with variations to suit our varied conditions, will be required to develop the diversified capabilities of our soil and meet the conditions of our peculiar climate.</P>
046.sgm:<P>While the customs and practices of almost every country, in respect to variety of production and modes of culture, may be beneficially adopted in California--I mean to say, to a greater degree than in almost any other country in the whole world,--there is something so peculiar in our surpassingly rich soils--in our wet and dry seasons--in our dry and apparently barren lands but which, when irrigated, astonish us with their productiveness-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>"To regulate commerce with foreign nations, and among the several States and with the Indian tribes."</P>
046.sgm:<P>What regulation, I ask, can be more important to commerce among the several States than to fix a reasonable limit, beyond which even extortion can not go, to the charges for freight and travel? Our country is expanding into wonderful proportions. So rapid is our advancement that many who have already passed the meridian of life, and who are now witnessing this interesting scene, may live to see the United States the third nation of the earth in population and territorial extent and the first in power, intelligence, goodness, and having all the attributes essential to make us a great, good independent and happy people. We are already the first nation in the cause of freedom, and the defense of human rights. The travel, commerce and free and untrammeled intercommunication between the States composing this vast nation of ours are of vital importance, in order to dissipate prejudice and bind all its members into one indissoluble and harmonious whole. The prosperity of agriculture, of mining, of manufactures, in a word, of all interests, hinges upon the proper regulation of commerce among the several States. How important, then, it becomes that these regulations should be enacted and subject, from time to time, to amendment by the representatives of the whole people. And, thanks to the wisdom of our forefathers, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>This question does not concern California alone; the States upon the Atlantic slope will soon demand it. The monopolies so combine to fix the prices of freight--(and the travel is inseparably connected with the commerce)--that the farmer of Illinois is often obliged to sell his corn at a mere nominal price for fuel, when it would bring 75 cents to $1 per bushel in New York.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The States themselves sometimes violate the Constitution by imposing burdens on the travel and commerce passing through them. The State of Illinois, for instance, charges seven per centum on the gross earnings of the Illinois Central Railroad, thereby taxing the commerce and travel of all the States to the extent of about half a million dollars per annum. New Jersey and Maryland also raise large sums of money to support their State governments from taxing the travel passing through them, a vast majority of which comes from the other States.</P>
046.sgm:<P>All public highways must be subject to regulation under the provision quoted, for they are but links of highways passing through all of the States. It was once said that all roads led to Rome. We can say that all roads in America lead to New York and San Francisco.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is, therefore, undeniably wrong for the States to tax the travel and commerce passing through them. It is wrong for monopolies to do the same thing by unrestricted charter privileges. Congress can never alienate the right to regulate commerce among the several States. Agriculture and all the industrial interests of California, and of all the States, are deeply concerned in seeing commerce among the several States freed from all odious and unjust obstructions and properly regulated by the only power having competent authority to do it, namely the Congress of the United States. Unless this be so they must all, for all indefinite future, if not for all time, lie at the mercy of formidable monopolies. Even after the Pacific Railroad shall have been completed--aye, and after the Northern Pacific and Southern Pacific Railroads shall span, as they surely will, the continent and be the coterminus with the northern and southern borders of this great country, from the Mississippi valley to the Pacific Ocean--the danger will still remain. The railroad and steamship companies can and will combine to gage their tariffs of charges by their own--I was going to say consciences, but corporations have no consciences, --I will say, by their own will, limited only by their love of money and their ability to extort it from the people at the expense of the prosperity and all the material interests of the whole country. The carrying business between the Atlantic States and the Pacific Coast is destined to be immense beyond computation. Shall it be suffered to permanently go into the grasp of unrestricted monopolies? In view of the facts of the case, it must be patent to everyone that Congress alone can remove the obstacles in the way of immigration. The earlier the people make the demand, the sooner will Congress obey their will.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The policy of granting subsidies in order to encourage the establishment of ocean steamship lines to important points in foreign countries is, I believe, a good one,--a necessity--in order to enable us to compete with the formidable steam marine of Great Britian. We must either do this or remain a second power upon the ocean. We find it necessary to grant aid to great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>By the census of 1860 there were in the United States, of male persons twenty years of age, and upward 8,109,656. There were classed as having occupations 8,287,043. Now, let us endeavor to arrive at the real voting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Barkeepers, 13,263; agents, 16,478; brokers, 4,907; grocers, 40,070; innkeepers, 25,818; merchants, 123,378; milliners, 25,722; public officers, 24,693; peddlers, 16,594; seamstresses, 90,198; teachers, 110,469; U. S. officers, 7,097; tailors and tailoresses, 33,900; actors, 1490; auctioneers, 1,348; bankers, 2,753; bank officers, 2,995; housekeepers, 22,393; lawyers, 33,193; music teachers, 5,625; nurses, 8,132; overseers, 37,883; physicians, 54,543; students, 49,993; traders, 11,195; planters, 85,661; unknown, 62,872--912,563.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Among the occupations are: Carpenters, 242,598; deduct 42,958; farmers, 2,423,895, deduct 423,895; farm laborers 795,679, deduct 95,679; servants, 559,908, deduct 159,908; common laborers, 969,301, deduct 169,301--891,741. Some of these, however, may not be worthy of the honorable occupations with which they are classed. I want these calculations to be below rather than above the truth. Some may not actually labor; some may be only jack-knife carpenters; some who profess to be servants may be eye-servants. Hence, to be entirely on the safe side, the above liberal deductions are made. There are 164,608 shoemakers, some of whom may be cobblers--let us deduct 40,000. To make sure that we cover everything and leave the number of productive laborers--the bone and sinew and hope of the country--who are American male citizens and entitled to vote let us make the further allowance for foreigners and all others, say 1,442,739. Total deductions, 3,287,043. Balance, in round numbers, of 5,000,000 of wealth-producing citizen voters: The Presidential vote of 1860--the same year of the census from which the above conclusions have been drawn--was as follows: For Lincoln, 1,857,610; Douglas, 1,365,976; Breckenridge, 847,953: Bell 590,631; total, 4,662,170.</P>
046.sgm:<P>These figures are irresistible, and demonstrate that five-sixths of the voters of the United States are the laborers--yes, the active workers on the farms, in the manufactories--every place where men obey the command of their Creator, and eat their bread in the sweat of their face. But there are teachers, and many other useful--yes, indispensable-- occupations and professions, amounting in the aggregate to hundreds of thousands, a majority of whom must of necessity be in sympathy with the laboring and wealth-producing classes, and essential to our prosperity. Hence our calculations are, beyond all question, within the truth. From data found in the same census report the evidence is conclusive that more than four-fifths of the entire population of the United States are the laboring men and women and their dependent families thereby showing the important fact that the producers are themselves the principal consumers. The same rule obtains here as well as in the other States. Who, then, I ask, are the rulers of the land? Who most interested in reasonable prices for all the necessaries and comforts of life? Who so desirous to see economy in the administration of public affairs, as those who pay all the taxes and bear all the burdens?--aye, and who so responsible? Oh that the laborers and producers of all that the country can boast--of all that has made its name great among the nations--may appreciate the magnitude of their respoonsibility! May they always be intelligent, for in their keeping are committed the hope, the destiny, the momentous future, pregnant with coming events too grand and too brilliant, let us hope, to fade away, of this Republic.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I had intended to say something in regard to silk culture and other industries, but time will not permit.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I had intended, also, Mr. President, to discuss or at least to allude to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Finally, Mr. President, I am most happy to believe that the Golden State has a bright future before her. No State in the sisterhood of the Union occupies geographically a more important position. With many disadvantages, on account of want of population and our distance from the great markets of the world, our State has still so many other advantages and so many attractive features, that it seems amazing to those who have seen and known the facts, that the people from the Atlantic States and from the overcrowded populations of Europe do not rush here by countless thousands. The reason must be that they have not the necessary information, or the means to reach here, or both. So far as intelligence is concerned, it is only necessary to state the naked truth; but truth, in this land of wonders, of beauty and of fruitfulness, seems to the people of other lands like fiction. You must show them that the truth is the truth.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Do you think the peasant farmer of Germany, or the viticulturist laboring upon the few rods of terraced cliffs overlooking the Rhine, or any of the intelligent laboring classes in other European countries, would remain where they are were they able to reach California, and knew the real facts, the naked truth?</P>
046.sgm:<P>If they knew that wages are higher here than in any other part of the known world?</P>
046.sgm:<P>That here, a common laborer can earn, over and above his own board, from four to six barrels of flour in a single month?</P>
046.sgm:<P>That bread and nearly all the necessaries of life are cheaper here than in any other country upon the globe?</P>
046.sgm:<P>That there is room for millions of people to come here and cultivate the vine, the fig, the olive, and all the cereals and vegetables known to warm and temperate climates?</P>
046.sgm:<P>That the climate here is actually one of indescribable loveliness?</P>
046.sgm:<P>That we are blest with the "early and the later rain," which makes California a land of almost never-failing harvest and fruitfulness?</P>
046.sgm:<P>That Winter, except in the mountains, is hardly known; no rains in Summer to blight or destroy harvests; that for six months of the year the sky bends over this land of "hills and valleys" with almost unclouded serenity?</P>
046.sgm:<P>That fruits of nearly all kinds, such as peaches, apples, pears and grapes, are so abundant as to be literally almost without price?</P>
046.sgm:<P>That while in corresponding latitudes upon the Atlantic slope of the continent, the States are buried in snow and ice and chilled by piercing blasts from the frozen zone, here our hills and valleys and mountain slopes, refreshed and fructified by generous rains, rejoice in robes of living green?</P>
046.sgm:<P>I am greatly rejoiced to know that those who have produced this fine exhibition--manufactured these works of skill and beauty--these implements and inventions--these unrivaled products of the soil--these wares, and all the varied products of manufactures--those, I say, who have produced all these, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PREMIUM AWARDED FOR BEST GRAIN FARM BY STATE AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ADDRESS OF GENERAL JOHN BIDWELL.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Delivered before the State Agricultural Society, September 18, 1868.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN BIDWELL IN 1868</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>OPENING ADDRESS.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Delivered before the Upper Sacramento Agricultural Society, September Twenty-sixth, Eighteen Hundred and Sixty-Nine.</P>
046.sgm:<P>BY GENERAL JOHN BIDWELL, President.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Members of the Upper Sacramento Agricultural Society, and Ladies and Gentlemen:</P>
046.sgm:<P>On occasions like this it is customary, as you are aware, for the presiding officer to deliver an opening address, dilating upon the importance of agriculture and portraying in glowing terms the resources of the country, present and prospective; but I have neither time nor inclination to enter upon, much less to perform such a task; nor do I believe that you, under the circumstances desire such at my hands.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Officers of an agricultural society, if they discharge their duties as they should, occupy anything but sinecure positions. No amount of smooth words, lazy good humor, or self-laudation will suffice to fill the chasm of inefficiency. They must work--that is the word--work--and triumph or fall by their work. Active, earnest, efficient work knows no such word as fail. And, my friends, it is a glorious circumstance that we live in an age of universal activity--in a country of liberty and progress, where it is no disgrace to toil. We should recognize labor as the foundation of prosperity; and no man can plead as an excuse that it is not honorable to work. It is not enough for the members of such a society to elect officers, resolve to hold a fair, and then fold their arms and say all is done. But, pardon the comparison of small with great things, how long would our government, or any other free government, last without the active sympathy and support of the people? Expenses must be paid, and moral and material forces brought into requisition. The life of a society like this, as that of a nation, depends on the existence and efficiency of these essential conditions. When a government or society is organized, it has but just begun its career. Sympathy and material support are its vital atmosphere. As "eternal vigilance is the price of liberty," so is earnest and ceaseless effort the price of success.</P>
046.sgm:<P>For two preceding years, the local or Butte County Agricultural Fairs were temporarily provided with a structure dignified with the name of Pavilion. The plan of annually building up and tearing down was believed by the present officers unwise and not to be continued. It was believed that prominent and enterprising citizens of adjoining counties would come to our aid and do much to promote the object and success of the annual exhibition (which we have come here to celebrate) and share equally with us in the beneficient results sure to flow from the exchange of happy greetings and peaceful rivalry. With these views and objects, it was but fair to give the citizens of other counties equal rights and representation. To this end it became necessary to reorganize and merge into a district organization, under the name of the "Upper Sacramento Agricultural Society," embracing the Counties of Butte, Colusa, Tehama, Shasta, Plumas and Lassen, and such others as may unite with us in the future. This accomplished, an appeal was made for means to erect a structure which should be of ample proportions to answer the present and prospective wants of the society; a building which could be so far advanced, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>It may be proper to allude to one or two obstacles to the completeness of the exhibition of the present year. The season for fruit has not been favorable. In comparison with former years, grapes have been almost a failure; and the same may be said of most products of the orchard. The failure has been both in quantity and quality of the fruit, owing, doubtless, to the small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>I may be pardoned, perhaps, for making one more excuse and counting it among the obstacles with which we have had to contend, and that is, the stringency of the money market, which is without parallel. The land is groaning with plenty, but amidst this abundance every man feels poor. One thing is evident, there is no available or adequate market for farm products. Look at your granaries, they are literally bursting with the staff of life. Look at your banks of the Sacramento, they are barricaded with grain awaiting shipment. There is, in this state of affairs, no sufficient circulating medium. Importations carry away all the gold and silver, and there is nothing left with which to transact business. From what source are we to find relief? I do not pretend to comprehend the intricacies of financial strategy by which a few men rule the entire Pacific Coast. One thing is clear--a crisis is upon us. The most apathetic must feel it. The year eighteen hundred and sixty-nine has been made memorable by the completion of the great transcontinental railway, and we are suddenly brought into more intimate relations with the Atlantic States and Europe. The mystery and romance of our isolation have been snatched away and we now stand face to face with the world.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In this changed condition of affairs, what is to be done? Fold our arms and wait for some thing to turn up? I answer, by no means. To me the solution of the problem seems not difficult; but it may be more readily said than done. We must compete, and competition means labor. Look at the vast array of our importations. We must either go to manufacturing or continue to export the preciuos metals. It takes all our gold and silver, as soon as they are dug out from the ground, and a considerable portion of our agricultural products, to pay for what we consume and wear out, a very considerable proportion of which, sufficient, in my judgment, to relieve this coast from the very embarassments we now suffer, can, and by every consideration of wise policy or local pride, should be manufactured in this State. But I have no time to enter into detail or speculation. Look at the vast--aye, unlimited water power of the Pacific Coast! Consider this mild and salubrious climate! See the exhaustless fountain of cheap labor in China and Japan. Cannot these advantages be made to avail us anything? I tell you, my friends, that if we remain inert and fall to grasp the logic of this new order of things our prestige is gone--business must languish--our prosperity must be deferred. It is not necessary to dive into the severe logic of political economists; Adam Smith and John Stuart Mill may be laid on the shelf. Let capitalists begin at once, and spend in the next two years as much in building up manufactures as they have in the past two years in wild and fruitless speculations in mines, and, my word for it, such an impetus to permanent prosperity would be given as to be wholly without parallel in the history of the State. Reduce, as fast an practicable, the importations, and you will have enough gold to fill every man's pockets; every man who shall, by his industry, deserve it, will be sure to have it.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wait and hope, and speculate as we may, I do not believe that real and permanent prosperity will dawn upon us until we become, to a considerable extent, a manufacturing as well as agricultural and mining State. We are too great a distance from the principal grain markets of the world to make our wheat take the place, of gold except in times of famine or great scarcity abroad.</P>
046.sgm:<P>According to the Commercial Herald and Market Review, a paper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Before closing, I beg leave to say to those who are here from a distance, we are glad to see you and feel honored by your presence. We are aware of the inconveniences inseparably connected with the sojourn of a large number of people in a small town. But I sincerely trust there will be no such thing as extortion or other cause of complaint. The people of Chico will, I believe, do all in their power to render the stay of their visitors agreeable. I must not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The ladies, whose kind and timely assistance was so acceptable in decorating the hall, have our special thanks. Finally, to one and all, ladies, gentlemen and children who grace the occasion by your presence, I greet you in the name of our Society with a sincere and heartfelt welcome. Good night.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE "OLD ADOBE" IN 1868</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE FARMERS' UNION.<LB>Remarks of Gen. Bidwell.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>We publish in full the proceedings of the Farmers' Union, held on Friday last in the City of San Francisco. The resolutions passed have the right ring and show that steps are being taken in the right direction to combine and consolidate effort in behalf of the farmers interests:</P>
046.sgm:<P>A special meeting of the Board of Directors of the California Farmers' Union was held at the Committee room of the Mechanics' Institute in this City on Friday, at which there were present General John Bidwell of Butte, President; J. R. Synder of Sonoma, W. H. Ware of Santa Clara, T. Hart Hyatt of Solano, Vice-Presidents; A. T. Dewey, Treasurer; and I. N. Hoag of Yolo, Secretary.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The meeting was called to order by the President, who said the objects of the meeting were to devise means by which the cost of moving and marketing the farmers' crops of the coming year might be lessened, and thereby enable them to realize a larger per cent of profit. The expenses of sacking grain and freighting it to market, whether at home or abroad, under the present management, are so great that the small amount left the farmer scarcely renumerates him for the labor necessary to produce it. This state of things arises not from any natural causes, such as the want of an abundant yield or the great distance from a reliable and extensive market, but rather from<LB><HSEP><HI REND="bold">THE EXHORBITANT EXACTIONS</HI>
046.sgm:<LB>of those through whose hands the material for sacking, the money to move it, and the means of transportation, both inland and on the high seas, are furnished. While it is not politic or business like for the farmers to express bitter feelings toward those who thus oppress them, without trying to relieve themselves from such oppression, still it is their interest and their duty to endeavor, by combined action, by organization, by financial or political power and influence, to protect their own interests, to demand, exact and enforce justice and common honesty from those with whom they have to deal.</P>
046.sgm:<P>General Bidwell said: "In my opinion there is but one way for the farmers to succeed in the accomplishment of these objects, and that is through the organization of local clubs, and the steady support of the State Club in its efforts in their behalf. If the farmers in all portions of the State will come together and form local clubs and put themselves in correspondence and business relations with the State Farmers' Union, in such a manner as to authorize the officers of this association to act for and bind them under necessary moral and financial obligations, in my opinion the relief which they seek can be obtained, to a great degree at least, and industrial prosperity may become general throughout the state. But while the farmer remains aloof from his neighbors --while he continues to act on the selfish individual policy--other classes, such as importers and manufacturers of sacks, common carriers, grain dealers commission merchants and money loaners, will unite for the advancement of their interests and ends, and will take undue and unjust advantages of the farmer; will oppress, prey upon him and eat out his substance and keep him poor and dependent. Farmers now, unorganized are weak and</P>
046.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">IN A GREAT DEGREE HELPLESS,</HI>
046.sgm:<P>and they have but little courage to make an effort to free themselves or better their conditions; but let 100,000 farmers of this State unite together and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN BIDWELL IN 1872</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CALIFORNIA'S PRODUCTIVE INTERESTS.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Annual Address Delivered Thursday Evening, September 22, 1881, at the Pavilion, by Hon. John Bidwell.</P>
046.sgm:<P>MR. PRESIDENT, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN: My sincere and earnest thanks are due to this society for their kind invitation. By its acceptance I have the honor of standing before you tonight to participate in the ceremonies of this very interesting occasion.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Bewildered as I am by this vast concourse and the magnificence around me, my beginning may be bad, my closing may be worse. And I therefore crave your indulgence and your pardon in advance. Being a farmer you may very naturally expect me to view things from a farmer's standpoint, and to tell you much about farming; but I do not propose to tell you about anything of the kind. It is the wish of my heart to say something, if I may be able in the interest of agriculture--Pacific Coast agriculture.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I shall certainly ramble more or less. Rambling was, you know, an early habit of Californians--or rather, I should say, it was a habit of some very early Californians. Some of us would not have found the way here, perhaps, had we not learned to ramble before we came. And in my rambles on this occasion it is my purpose, in the interest of agriculture, in a general way, to say something of our markets; something of lines of transportation; something of this State Agricultural Society; perhaps, of several other things. But I do not promise them in the order here named.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It would be not only a waste of time, but the height of presumption in me to attempt to instruct the farmers of this State how to manage their farms; how to plow, sow, and harvest; how to plant and cultivate their lands; and how to prepare and market their products; for they all know these things, and many of them much better than myself. They are part of their daily life, and they see and read about them every day. But almost every farmer, like other people, differs, in some respects, from every other farmer.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the vast hive of modern activity, there must of necessity be many callings. They are indespensible to modern progress and civilization, which are inseparable. The farmer who uses, and the mechanic who makes the plow, are of mutual benefit; so with all the useful trades, professions and employments. They are but links in the great chain of human industry.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In accordance with an early desire on my part, and believing it to be rather a duty, as well as more profitable, to occupy the allotted time in referring to matters of general rather than of special import; and regardful, as I should be, of your patience and your kindness, I have given myself very little room for detail or specification. It is not therefore within my purpose, nor will it be in my power, to scarcely mention, much less to dwell at length on questions of mere local or personal interest.</P>
046.sgm:<P>That I may avoid, as far as possible, repetition or misconception, let it be understood that, in aiming to further agriculture, or if I shall be so fortunate as to say anything having a bearing in that direction, it is my intention to include, in their appropriate relations, all useful industries and callings. My intention is to slight no one, being all members as we are of the same family--the great industrial family, and a part of that of the nation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The reports of the California State Agricultural Society during the twenty-six or twenty-seven years of its existence, and the able addresses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The practice of this finest and most important of arts is so common in our own, indeed, in all countries; so many people in this age of travel are the daily witnesses of farms and farming in all their aspects; farming has been so largely the employment of the masses in all times and in all countries, being so naturally the occupation of man; and so much on the subject has been written and spoken, that I trust you will not expect from me impossibilities, in the way of things charmingly new or sensationally interesting. Things new and strange there are, the world is full of them, and some of them, doubtless many of them, come within the range of the great question we are considering; for agriculture, like the ambient air which enfolds everything upon the earth, comes in contact with and in countless ways and aspects bears important relations to almost everything in the industrial and material world, even to the glittering orbs made to emblaze the sky and to "be forsigns, and for seasons, and for days and years."</P>
046.sgm:<P>But the events of every day life, the commonplace objects which are nearest and we oftenest see, may sometimes have, and, I may say, generally do have, a significance, a bearing upon our welfare far more useful and enduring than the wonders which are the sensation of the hour, and which meteorlike so frequently disappear. Those who have the taste may indulge in giddy flights, and range ad libitum in the realms of fancy. My desire is far otherwise. I have no wish, and especially at this time, to stray from this lovely scene which you have made so attractive, so brilliant, and so enjoyable.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Of course I must see things from a farmer's standpoint, if I see them at all; but I have no right to speak for more than one. The right I claim for myself I cheerfully concede to every man--to see from his position, and through the medium of his own vision. If no differences existed among men, this world would indeed be an unbearable monotony. There would be no use of coming here if in all things we all saw alike. None could teach, none could learn, on such a dead level of dreary uniformity. But there is no danger on this score. And yet, I will venture to assume that there are points of agreement on many questions of general interest, and that among them are these: That agriculture is indispensable, and, therefore, that it is our duty, and the duty of every one, to encourage it. That in this active and cultured age a division of labor is necessary to advancement, and, therefore, that all employments essential to the general good are equally useful and honorable. That agriculture, being of vital importance, should have the watchful and fostering care of the State, and be relieved of every unnecessary burden. That all taxes should be made as low as good government will admit and wise economy can make them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding our peculiar and profitable seclusion in early times on this distant coast, we have ever hailed with unbounded satisfaction every inroad upon our isolation. We have ever longed for closer and closer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Before the world-renowned discovery of gold in 1848, there were but two principal ways by which to reach this then almost terra incognita of the American continent, to wit: across the Plains and round Cape Horn. A few came through Mexico, and some by the way of Arizona or Santa Fe. And we were gladdened, first, by the Panama steamship line and Isthmus railway, which improved it. Then followed the pony express, overland stage, and telegraph; and, last and greatest, the culmination of our fondest hopes in the completion of the celebrated transcontinental railway. But perhaps I should not say last of anything in the line of improvement within the possibility of achievement by steam, lightning, and modern enterprise. In this rushing, flying age, nothing seems to be last very long, especially in regard to facilities for locomotion.</P>
046.sgm:<P>As waters flow from higher to lower levels, so supplies gravitate in the direction of increasing wants. Pacific coast enterprise has done much by its readiness to anticipate and supply demand. Steam ships have been from time to time added to the Pacific waters, till at length lines diverge from the Golden Gate to various points, trans-oceanic, coastwise, and otherwise, thereby extending commercial enterprise to many countries, islands, and places in our own and other lands. And yet the supply of commercial facilities has never been adequate to the demand.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Such has been, and is, the inherent energy of our people, and such the producing power of this State in their hands, as to demand ever increasing facilities for transportation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In response to these imperativve calls, another railway is soon to unite us with the Gulf of Mexico, and the Mississippi at New Orleans. It promises important results. In a word, it promises competition with the sailing vessels laden with wheat for Liverpool via Cape Horn. (What it may do when it drives the vessels all away, I am not prepared to say). Under all circumstances, songs of rejoicing will herald its completion, and no more sincere acclamations will be heard than those of the farmers of California.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Another grand line of railway is speeding to join the great lakes with the Pacific ocean. Other lines of railway, and ramifications of existing lines, are in progress or in contemplation, one pointing westward through the dominions of our friendly cousins to the north, and another looking towards the capital of our fair "cactusian" sister republic on the south. The signs of the times are unmistakable. The car of progress is rolling onward with ever increasing speed.</P>
046.sgm:<P>This once most out of the way land of ours, is soon to become in common with our whole country, and at no distant period, one almost measureless net work of rails, wires, and locomotives. And as these checker the continent, so are steam and sail, and cable to streak the ocean. Truly this is an age of locomotion. When younger than now, in western New York, I remember that it was something quite remarkable to see a man who had traveled round the world. Now such travelers are as thick as bees. They fairly swarm around the earth.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The earliest adventurers to this land of gold came like a rushing torrent, having death and almost every known danger by sea and by land, meeting and overcoming obstacles innumerable and seemingly insurmountable. But a rich fruition awaited them. Perhaps no other people ever had, under similar circumstances, so grand a harvest of gold, and such a monopoly of high prices and large profits.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Modern agriculture, as we see it on this coast today, was born of the necessities of those early years. The fabulous prices paid for agricultural <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>As population and production advanced prices, of course, declined. Still, they remained exhorbitant, in comparison with the Atlantic States and foreign countries. Distance and isolation could not be wholly overcome. There were many disadvantages and inconveniences, but money and plenty abounded. So, we almost came to imagine that halcyon days were to be our perpetual inheritance; and this idea permeated our business habits and social relations. We talked about high wages, large profits, boundless mineral wealth, inexhaustible fertility of soil, and never-failing harvests. And so we lived and planned and dreamed. But those early scenes are consigned to the buried past--buried, but not dead, for they live in history and in memory.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The third of a century has laid its hand upon us, and waked us from those dreams. The bubble, isolation, has burst, and, lo, we stand face to face in competition with the world. We have discovered that we are no longer in a world by ourselves, but that we live on the same planet as other people, and that henceforward we must run the race of life in competition with all mankind--and win if we can--and, in my judgment, we can, if we do our duty. And it is but too true that, in the great markets of Europe, as well as in all other markets to which we are obliged to go in order to find sale for the vast surplus of our staple products, we are in sharp competition, not only with our sister States, but with all the world besides, meeting wheat from Russia, France, Germany, Spain, Italy, Hungary, and other countries too numerous to mention.</P>
046.sgm:<P>To our disadvantage in some respects--to our advantage in others, perhaps--high prices on this coast have not wholly disappeared; but they are very naturally disappearing, as means of travel cheapen and population pours in. Many years may elapse before we reach the low level of prices that obtain even on the Atlantic seaboard of our own country; and it is to be hoped we may never have to come to the prices of labor in many foreign countries, because it is of much importance to attract hither the best labor. Nevertheless, it is not wise to deceive ourselves; for we are evidently drifting in the direction of a common level. In a word, the inevitable tendency is towards a level with our surroundings, be they near or distant. Cheap transportation is to us, on this relatively distant coast, a necessity. Without it we cannot compete and prosper.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Considering our situation and the ruling prices of our products, some kinds of labor are still too high--really more than farmers can afford to pay. I allude to that of the harvest field. And still farmers are seemingly willing to pay as long as they are possibly able, because in harvest they require the best of hands.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Though to the farmer the future at times looks dark, as disadvantages multiply and appear too great to be overcome, often struggling, as he does, against fearful odds in the shape of floods, dry seasons, and many other forms; yet, upon the whole, the average farmer of the State is not, he will not be discouraged; he is steadfastly set in the direction of progress; his face is still radiant with hope. He can stand almost anything except a ruinously low wheat market and hydraulic debris.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Having mentioned debris, I might as well say in regard to that momentous question, that it is one which deeply concerns agriculture. Large as is the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>I am aware that irrigation properly used can do wonders; and I say, let it do them as fast as the wheels of industry can propel it onward. But after it has done them to the utmost extent conceivable within the limits of centuries there will still remain thousands of places which cannot be reached, or if reached, would be of little or no value.</P>
046.sgm:<P>California has no agricultural lands which she can afford to destroy. Neither the metropolis of this coast, nor the State, nor the nation, can afford to witness the destruction of this valley. The navies of the world may come and ride safely in our magnificent harbor. Yes, when this valley--I call it but one valley, north and south; nature made it one valley, but we for convenience have given it two names; when I came here, forty years ago, it had but one name, the Tulare Valley, or Valle de los Tulares--when this valley shall be, not destroyed, but reclaimed, they may come and find products in abundance to supply all their wants. We have no internal navigation which we can afford to see permanently destroyed.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I have not an adverse thought against any rightful industry of this State. I have not an unkind emotion against mining--even hydraulic mining. On the contrary, all useful industries have my warmest sympathies. I wish hydraulic mining could continue, and the whole country prosper. At the same time, I admit that it is not to me a pleasing scene to see havoc made of hills, and mountains, and stately forests, and a once lovely prospect changed to a desolation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>There can be no question that agriculture is the only enduring interest, and that an immediate and adequate remedy is demanded, not to wholly repair the injury done, for that may be impossible, but to avert greater impending peril. And, without attempting to discuss remedies, I must confess my inability to see how the continual and widespread destruction is to cease without stopping the cause. The mines have a rule or common law which governs among themselves, and it is just, namely: that miners working claims above, on the same stream, must not dump their tailings on claims below them. Let them apply this rule to their brother farmers, and the trouble is at once settled. It is justice, pure and simple; under it the scales of the blind goddess balance with equal poise.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But to return to the business of farming. Farmers and farmhand alike are interested in a good wheat market, for the continued low price of our staple product, like that of the past year, coupled with disadvantages of situation, would soon render a continuance of high wages in harvest impossible.</P>
046.sgm:<P>While the average farmer has perhaps made little or no money, he has acquired something else of real value, he has learned a great deal. He has learned to be less boastful, less presuming in his expenses upon the results of the approaching harvest; to purchase less frequently, when he can do without them, new buggies, new separators, headers, engines, and whole outfits of harvesting machinery, and especially when perhaps his nearest neighbor has learned that he must, if possible, earn a little more and spend a good deal less, and save all he can.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Being Americans, the farmer believes in obedience to the laws of his country. He believes in the force of the public will. He knows that his country is great and strong, and he believes she means to be just. He has an abiding faith in coming remedies for existing evils. He has come to consider no obstacles too great to be surmounted, so he suffers, endures, and hopes.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The great want of a California farmer is a fair price and an adequate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>We are no longer an out of the way corner of the earth--a sort of ultima thule of the nation--but an important station on the greatest highway round the world. Multitudes have come and are coming to swell the volume of our population. California has become one of the most prominent points of interest to the traveler and to the tourist. The distinguished, and some whose names are on the scroll of renown, unable to resist, have been attracted hither to see for themselves the fame of California and the great ocean which rolls at her feet, and which should, by occupation, be almost our own. An Emperor and a King have visited us. Greater still; a President of the United States, and an illustrious General and ex-President, have been here.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The coming of notable visitors is no accident; for in the modern sense of the word, no man can be said to be much of a traveler, and no American can be said to have seen his country, who have never been in California, and witnessed for themselves, at least something of her climate, topography, and wonderful objects. And hence their coming, as I said, is no mere accident. In the presence of daily departing trains, they invariably linger as long as their time will admit, and then, with seeming reluctance, they choose perhaps the longest way out of the State for their return.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Nor is this strange. There is perhaps no other point on the globe so accessible, where a traveler may see so much of beauty and learn so much of thrilling interest, in a country so new in years and so old in the march of improvement, as in California.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Is it not well to pause sometimes, even in a rapid march, if not to learn how far we have gone, to see the direction we are traveling and something of our surroundings? We are the living witnesses of amazing advances in many, I may say, all directions, and especially in that of railways and telegraphs upon land and steam locomotion upon the ocean, and, I may add, cables under the ocean. A breaking up of our once boasted seclusion has been one of the results, and we have not mourned but rejoiced. Expenses have lessened, but not sufficiently so to tally with our reduced earnings. Distances in point of time have diminished and are diminishing.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But with great gains often come some disadvantages. The causes which have abridged expense and distance, and brought us into more direct relations with our own and other lands, have, to a considerable extent, taken away the shipping that once bore away, at reasonable rates, our earlier products; and they are building up most rapidly formidable competition everywhere, especially in the production of our greatest present staple, bread.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We live in an age of great production. The special agent for the collection of statistics of agriculture for the census of 1880 says:</P>
046.sgm:<P>"The most striking suggestion of these figures is the unprecedented advance in production during the last decade."</P>
046.sgm:<P>WHEAT.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Now just a few figures, and only a few; for I promised to avoid specification as far as possible for this occasion. In 1869 there were raised of wheat, in all the States and Territories, 187,745,626 bushels. Ten years later the same cereal product was 459,591,093 bushels. Eleven States in the last census show a falling off of 2,303,607 bushels. But in comparison this is simply insignificant, being less than one and a half per cent. of the grand aggregate gain of the other thirty-six States and Territories (which was 174,149,074 bushels.) In some of the States and Territories the expansion was truly amazing.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Had the figures been made for 1880 instead of 1879, there is no doubt the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>And wonderful as is the average national advance in wheat production, that of our own State during the same period is, in comparison, immensely greater.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Comparing 1879 with 1869, the following States show diminution in wheat production, according to the census of 1880:</P>
046.sgm:<P>STATES.<HSEP>     1880--<HSEP>1870-- Bushels.<HSEP> Bushels. Louisiana .<HSEP> 5,044<HSEP>9,906 Massachusetts .<HSEP>15,818<HSEP>   34,648 Mississippi <HSEP>218,890<HSEP>  274,479 Nevada<HSEP> 70,404<HSEP>228,866 New Hampshire <HSEP>169,316    193,621 New Jersey <HSEP>1,901,739<HSEP>2,301,433 New York <HSEP>  11,586,754      12,178,462 Pennsylvania <HSEP> 19,462,405      19,672,967 Rhode Island <HSEP> 290<HSEP>      784 Vermont <HSEP>37,257<HSEP>  454,703 Wisconsin <HSEP> 24,884,689      25,606,344</P>
046.sgm:<P>The following States and Territories show increased production:</P>
046.sgm:<P>States and Territories.<HSEP>1880<HSEP> 1870<HSEP>1860<HSEP>1850 Bushels.<HSEP>Bushels.<HSEP>Bushels.<HSEP> Bushels. Alabama<HSEP> 1,529,683      1,055,068 Arizona <HSEP>.   189,527<HSEP>   27,052 Arkansas <HSEP>    1,252,181<HSEP> 741,736 California <HSEP>    28,787,132     16,676,702 Colorado <HSEP>    1,475,559<HSEP> 258,474 Connecticut <HSEP> 38,742<HSEP>  38,144 Dakota <HSEP>    3,018,354<HSEP> 170,662 Delaware <HSEP>     1,175,182<HSEP> 895,477 District of Columbia<HSEP> 6,402<HSEP>   3,782 Florida <HSEP>    513 Georgia <HSEP>   3,158,335      2,127,017 Idaho <HSEP>540,564<HSEP>  75,650 Illinois<HSEP>   51,136,455     30,128,405 Indiana <HSEP>    47,288,989     27,747,222 Iowa <HSEP>    31,177,225     29,435,692 Kansas <HSEP>   17,324,141      2,391,198 Kentucky <HSEP>  11,355,340      5,728,704 Maine <HSEP>665,714<HSEP> 278,793 Maryland <HSEP>    8.004,484      5,774,503 Michigan <HSEP>    35,537,097     16,265,773 Minnesota <HSEP>   34,625,657     18,866,073 Missouri<HSEP>  24,971,727     14,315,926 Montana <HSEP>469,688<HSEP> 181,184 Nebraska <HSEP>    13,846,742      2,125,086 New Mexico <HSEP>708,778<HSEP> 352,822 North Carolina <HSEP>    3,385,670      2,859,879 Ohio <HSEP>    46,014,869     27,882,159 Oregon <HSEP>     7,486,492      2,340,746 South Carolina <HSEP>962,330<HSEP> 783,610 Tennessee <HSEP>    7,331,480      6,188,916 Texas<HSEP>     2,555,652<HSEP> 415,112 Utah <HSEP>    1,167,268<HSEP> 558,473 Virginia <HSEP>    7,822,354      7,398,787 Washington Territory <HSEP>     1,921,382<HSEP> 217,043 West Virginia <HSEP>   4,002,017      2,483,543 Wyoming <HSEP>  4,762</P>
046.sgm:<P>Totals<HSEP> 459,591,093    287,745,626   172,034,301     99,551,012</P>
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046.sgm:<P>With few exceptions, every part of our country is susceptible of vastly enlarged wheat production. The Territories, wonderful as their beginning has been, have, in reality, scarcely begun. But our country is not to be without competitors. Russia, already large, is making rapid strides. France, Germany, and other countries, add to the volume. A vast region of the Canadian Dominion lying west of Lake Superior, and soon to be opened up by Canadian railway enterprise, is said to be one of the finest countries for wheat in America. But the United States will, of course, hold the lead of all countries for an indefinite period, if not for all time. But California must not lose sight of the fact that all countries, including our own, are looking principally to one great market--that of Europe. The notable advance in wheat production on this continent since 1840, doubtless had its beginning in two causes: American harvesting inventions, and the increasing demand for wheat almost everywhere, especially in Europe. With all our increased facilities for transportation, California must not lose sight of the fact that we remain, relatively to the great common market and the many competing sources of supply, the same distant country, and at a great disadvantage. Distance and expense have been lessened to us, and so have they been lessened to our competitors. They may suffer from combination; we are in more imminent danger than they. We may have competition, and that soon; but we may have combination much sooner than we expect.</P>
046.sgm:<P>And right here I wish to place a mark: There is, in my humble judgment, but one thing in the nature of competition that will endure and, at the same time, meet the wants of the people of the Pacific Coast; and that one thing will necessarily require time. I mean, of course, a great tide water Isthmus canal, without locks or portages. On this question California ought to be a unit, and as firm as adamant. No matter who may build, America must control, or the control must be international.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Other schemes, and delays, and oppositions may be in the interest of combinations. Note whence they come, and weigh them carefully. Such a canal alone can afford adequate relief; and will be permanent, unless the combinations become strong enough to fill it up.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Even now, in the morning of her agriculture, California has demonstrated her capacity for varied and almost boundless production. But nearer and better markets are a desideratum, for they alone can develop her highest prosperity.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The nearest are generally the best markets, and therefore we ought, as far as in our power to, encourage home markets. But how can we do this? I answer: Enlarge our manufactures. Make as many as possible of the "thousand and one" articles which we could make, but which continue to come by land and by water from the East and from almost everywhere. And I answer further: Diversify your agriculture. It is written, "man shall not live by bread alone." This was true more than three thousand years ago; may, it not be true in California today.</P>
046.sgm:<P>That wheat culture exhausts fertility, does not admit of argument. So does everything we raise exhaust, but wheat more than almost anything else. Rest and summer fallow simply mean postponement of exhaustion. It we are to enjoy the benefit of inexhaustible fertility we must make restoration. We cannot, with impunity, continue to violate an inexorable law of nature, which requires the return, in form, of that which is borrowed from the soil. There are many ways. Almost everything contains some one or more elements of fertility--even water, air, and the very rocks. Your mountains and hills, "rock-ribbed and ancient as the sun," are the eternal storehouses of fertility. You have doubtless seen--some of you, at least-- at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>California has the important problem of practicable fertilization yet to solve. If we had rich sedimentary waters, like those of the Nile, an annual overflow would suffice to repair every possible waste.</P>
046.sgm:<P>By diversified agriculture I do not mean that we are to cease raising wheat; but to raise many other products which we either need or for which we can find profitable markets at home or elsewhere.</P>
046.sgm:<P>California will, without doubt, be largely a wheat-producing State for all time. Considering her vast area, and what we have already done, it is almost certain that wheat culture could be carried to an annual production of at least one hundred million bushels. This would furnish bread to fifteen million people. But the people will never come as long as we so largely grow wheat only or principally, because of a lack of employment. It requires comparatively few men to raise wheat, and they are employed scarcely half the year. If we can vary production, and profitably (and I believe we can, because more people can find employment, and we can find better market for what we have, though it consist less of wheat and more of something else), will it not be wise, I say, to encourage the effort?</P>
046.sgm:<P>Some may respond that our peculiar climate is not favorable to diversification. Go to the extent of practicability, that is all I ask, expense and everything considered. Make available the variable conditions of humidity, soil, climate, and elevation suited to varied productions, and existing in almost boundless variety; do this to the extent of half the amount that lies within easy reach of genuine enterprise, and I greatly err if you do not only surprise yourselves but our whole country.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I beg to diverge a few moments. I remember the time when it was thought a thing impossible to raise wheat in this valley or the San Joaquin valley, for I was here before grain had been sown or ever grown in this great valley, five hundred miles in length. The object in asking for grants of land in those early days was to raise cattle. There was grass--some places it was rank (in the bottoms), but generally it was short everywhere else; but no one supposed then that anybody would be foolish enough to settle nearer than five, ten or twenty miles of a prior settler. It was not long, however, before it was found that wheat would grow in this valley, but the wildest dreamer never imagined that fruit would grow here; but now, after a lapse of forty years, it is almost impossible to say what will not grow in this valley. But I must not make my parenthesis so long. To return. Almost innumerable as are the places in this State which will admit of varied culture, the number may be greatly increased. And how? You can clothe the surface with verdure, and thereby modify the heat. You may not, perhaps, practice any of the known theories of storms, to the extent of calling down, at will, copious showers to cool and fructify the earth, but you can, in numberless places, and ever vast regions, substitute irrigation for showers, and almost literally purple the landscape with ripening fruits; but diversity is not to be achieved in a day or a year, it will take time; this society may find it the labor of long years of trial.</P>
046.sgm:<P>And here I wish to ask a question in regard to markets for wheat, of which staple product, for an infinite period, we are to be a large producer. Can we not, for a portion of our wheat, find nearer and more profitable than European markets? This is merely a suggestion. Are there no fields of commercial enterprise to be enlarged, or new fields to be discovered, to respond to our peculiarities of situation and production? Surely this magnificent country, with more than a thousand miles of loveliest coast, and grandest of oceans <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>We have a treaty with China and, as I understand, we have ample control of Mongolian immigration. All is satisfactory. Why may we not lay hold of China and convert that vast empire of more than four hundred million people into a boundless and never-failing market for all our surplus flour? I do not mean to compel the Chinese to swallow our bread at the cannon's mouth--far otherwise. But lay hold of China by the stronger and more endduring ties of friendship. I can see no reason why we should perpetuate the senseless abuse and prejudices for which politicians and demagogism have in the past, as I think, been so largely responsible. We, on this coast, are too needy, and our country to too powerful and too magnanimous, I trust, to give any uncertain sound on a question of such vital moment to her Pacific border. The Mongolian becomes degraded by the use of opium; but do not let us in any way help degrade him (by abuse or otherwise) and then blame him because he is degraded. Let it not be said that Mongolians came in contact with Christian civilization and were made worse. Genuine friendship alone can elevate.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It has been said that the people of China eat rice, and will not therefore, use wheat flour. But they do use wheat flour. The shipments of flour from San Francisco were: In 1878 two hundred and nine thousand six hundred and eleven barrels; in 1879, two hundred and thirty-five thousand seven hundred and eighty-nine barrels; in 1880, two hundred and thirty-five thousand three hundred and three barrels. These shipments began with ninety-six thousand barrels in 1865, and have steadily increased till the present time; and thus far this year they have been at the rate of nearly three hundred thousand barrels.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Flour exports from San Francisco to all foreign countries amounted last year to five hundred and sixty-two thousand one hundred and thirty-nine barrels, of which China took forty-one per cent, England thirty per cent, Spanish America seventeen per cent., all other countries twelve per cent.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I may err; but to me this flour business with China seems susceptible, by a just and wise policy, of almost indefinite expansion. But China takes more than flour from california. Last year the merchandise exports amounted to three million three hundred and twenty-four thousand seven hundred and sixty-six dollars.</P>
046.sgm:<P>During last month (August, 1881) the exports of merchandise from San Francisco by sea were larger to China than to any other foreign country except England.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The following table shows the value of merchandise exported to sea from San Francisco during August, 1881:</P>
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046.sgm:<P>AUGUST EXPORTS. England <HSEP>$2,485,669     British Columbia <HSEP>$  103,314 China <HSEP>   361,082     Japan <HSEP>   40,927 New York <HSEP>  617,741     Panama <HSEP>    27,243 Hawaiian Islands <HSEP> 272,570     India <HSEP>    1,550 Tahiti <HSEP>  26,222      Belgium <HSEP>   72,818 Mexico <HSEP>  132,134      France <HSEP>   307,539 Central America <HSEP>   67,796      South America <HSEP>     7,069 Australia <HSEP>  106,759      Germany <HSEP>578</P>
046.sgm:<P>Total     $4,631,102 August, 1880      2,065,983</P>
046.sgm:<P>Increase for 1881      $2,565,119</P>
046.sgm:<P>The exports for 1880 and 1881, from January 1st to date, compare as follows: MONTH<HSEP><HSEP>1880.<HSEP>   1881. January <HSEP>  $   300,542     $  4,111,046 February <HSEP>    2,881,904<HSEP> 4,103,613 March <HSEP>    3,133,571<HSEP> 3,293,066 April <HSEP>    1,951,711<HSEP> 3,711,527 May <HSEP>   2,131,181<HSEP> 2,578,510 June <HSEP>   1,962,793<HSEP> 3,715,830 July <HSEP>    2,257,248<HSEP> 3,668,898 August <HSEP> 2,065,983<HSEP> 4,631,192</P>
046.sgm:<P>Totals <HSEP>  $19,389,933      $29,813,592 Increase for 1881 <HSEP>     $10,423,659</P>
046.sgm:<P>These figures are given, and I make these suggestions, to show that there is a beginning even in China, and to add that, in my judgment, it is in the interest of California agriculture, in order to extend the sale of her products, to cultivate amicable relations with all countries, building upon the foundations already laid, and laying new ones for our increasing productions, especially in all countries most accessible to the Pacific Coast.</P>
046.sgm:<P>An indispensable element to success in agriculture is transportation. Emphatically so is this the case with California. Like a chain, it may have, few or many links; but it extends all the way from the producer to his market. Every product ought to be able to pay a full reasonable charge for its carriage. But how often is it otherwise. It may, and frequently does happen that the smallest fraction of an overcharge amounts to prohibition or great oppression. Where there is little or practically no competition common carriers are apt to fix their charges almost to the very line of prohibition, and invariably much nearer than they ought. The wide ocean is less liable to such perils than the land. It is also in the interest of agriculture to encourage the multiplication of steam and other vessels for both internal and external navigation. In a word, American ship building ought, by a wise and liberal policy of our Government, to be encouraged and revived; it ought to be brought to life, for it is almost dead. We on the Pacific coast cannot hold what is legitimately ours--the Pacific ocean by occupation--unless we build and own the ships and sail them under the American flag. Nor can we reach as profitably as we ought, the vast markets even now awaiting our enterprise. Hence, we, Californians, of all people, should, as far as possible, look oceanward, at least with our heavy products. There is no encouragement to multiply production, unless markets can be reached by the producer with at least a small margin of profit. But we are not always permitted to go to the ocean, for the perils <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Large capital being necessary to the accomplishment of great enterprises, all legitimate investments should, under just and wise laws, receive ample encouragement and protection. Those who minister to great public wants by the construction of public highways, or otherwise; who meet and overcome stupendous obstacles, scaling and tunneling mountains, and successfully contending against the elements, earn for themselves imperishable names on the scroll of progress. They deserve and will receive the plaudits of a grateful people, and they should be amply rewarded.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Assuming it to be a fact known to all that the so-called owners of a certain kind of public highways in our country have in the aggregate acquired a dangerous degree of power in the form of moneyed influence; that such power will ever be used, as it has been in the past, to resist all attempts to regulate charges; that agriculture, and all other industries, are virtually at the mercy of such power; that men have never been known willingly to relax such domination; it becomes the bounden duty of the Government, in the early and wise exercise of its sovereign authority, to rescue all the industrial interests of the nation from a thraldom which no other power can reach.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Equal and exact justice alone will be a permanent solution of the question. This is a question of greatest moment, and it to evident to my mind that the rights are not all on one side. It has not been possible, at least thus far, to divest my mind of the idea that the people have some rights in these great public highways. I contend that they were not only made for the people, but that the people made them. It was their prior enterprise, in the various fields of production and invention, that created the demand for and made them possible. The people were the real moving power which brought them into existence. Their industries alone sustain and perpetuate them; the people are indispensable to them: they are indispensable to the people; they alone can protect and prosper them; without the people they would vanish from the earth. If I may without irreverence allude, by way of comparison, to a certain unprofitable undertaking of Aaron, in the absence of his brother Moses, on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>In their grand achievement I would not rob the builders of these indispensable modern improvements of the smallest modicum of merited praise or profit. But I do claim that the people are entitled to equal credit, equal advantages, and equal glory.</P>
046.sgm:<P>And for myself, I have another objection, which is, that these races are unmitigated cruelty to that noble animal, the horse. I am aware that many good and respectable people are passionately fond of races. There is, I conceive, no danger of "trials of speed" failing into disuse, even if the State should not continue to support the custom at the annual Fairs, because the millionaires, the Vanderbilts of the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, will be able and generous enough to come to its rescue, if it be found worthy of perservation. I am not the keeper of any man's conscience, and I have no desire to dictate to any one: but I do say that Fairs are, in my opinion, running altogether too much to races. If a farmer were to follow the example and judge of the value of races by the prominence given them at Fairs. then, to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>But to return. For more than twenty-five years I have witnessed in this State the workings of this and county and district Fairs. I have seen in them things I considered objectionable. The racing feature has to me always been so. But take Fairs as a whole, it is my conclusion that the good they do far outweighs the evil; that no available instrumentalities under the circumstances could have done so much to provoke that spirit of emulation and laudable rivalry so essential to progress, and so characteristic of our people. We do not judge a man's character altogether by his defects. So with this and all similar institutions. Ascertain the sum of affirmative good, and from it substract the negative bad. The remainder is the true value or character. Julius Caesar in his campaigns made many mistakes; and he was great enough to point out and acknowledge them; but his grand achievements so far outweighed his errors as to leave a large balance in his favor, and stamp him the greatest general of any age. And so I believe that this Society in spite of many things which some may wish had been otherwise during a long and useful career, will be found in the day of reckoning to have a large balance in its favor.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Upon the whole, I say this society ought to have the right arm of our best efforts to sustain and make it, if possible, more and more useful every year. Its capacity for good is not to be measured by any mere arithmetical computation. Its benefits may not always be immediate, or felt with equal force in every locality. Some may think they do not see or feel them at all, but they are real and vast nevertheless. Unseen things are often very important. The air is not seen, and sometimes scarcely felt, and yet it sustains every living thing that breathes. As seed sown in rich ground, which in its own good time puts forth, blossoms, and bears its fruits so this society blossoms into these great annual Fairs, and its fruits will be seen clustering in every valley, and on every hillside, and upon every mountain, and ripening into industrial harvests in all the coming years.</P>
046.sgm:<P>California cannot afford to dispense with its aid, or suffer this society to languish. I believe no State does or can do without some similar organization. Fairs are essential to modern progress, and one of the marked features of the age. There is scarcely a State, Territory, county, or city of any importance without them. For the last thirty years World's Fairs have been the rage among the nations.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In order to its greatest measure of prosperity and usefulness, this society needs to be placed upon a permanent foundation. It may require State aid. Being a State institution it ought, to the extent of its needs and in proportion to its importance, to have the fostering care of the State. But in order to permanence, it needs more than money; its foundations must rest deep in the hearts and affections of the people. Banish that "speed programme," and one hundred thousand dollars for a suitable hall and other requisites would be a cheap and profitable investment; not a hall like this, covering part of a block, but a grand temple of industry which, with its museum of natural history, and with its machinery hall, would cover a whole block; and which, with its ample stock grounds near, and its park and botanical gardens, could, in the no distant future, be made to grow into the most useful and attractive institution in all the State.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Good Book says: "There is that scattereth, and yet increaseth; and there in that withholdeth more than is meet, but it tendeth to proverty." In public as in private affairs, there are such things as wise economy, and wise liberality. The idea is a broad that this Society, since it had a sort of new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>In numbers, farmers and all engaged in useful industries, are allpowerful. They form a vast majority (as I could show by the census tables of occupation) of the voters. And in this, as in other public matters, their power measures exactly their responsibility. The people are everything--they are the State. "The glory of a nation are its people." Let them resolve that, as they love the State and her interests, and this institution as a most efficient aid to her progress, no political breath shall ever enter these sacred walls.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Again, I repeat, sustain this institution. If it is not what we all desire, let us do our best to make it so. No matter how many district or local Societies there may be. They are useful, and should also be sustained in proportion to their capacity for good. But they should in some way be aids, and share the destiny of the State Society, bearing a relation thereto like that of a county or district to the State. But these local societies can never take the place of the State Society, because we need one more central, more representative of all localities, and all interests, and all our people, than any local society can be. In a word, the agricultural interest of the State needs this Society, in this place, the capital of the State, where ample and permanent arrangement can be provided, and the people from every section of the State can come, meeting each other face to face, with the countless products of their respective callings in one great field of meritorious competition.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The good results of Fairs, as I have said, are not always to be seen or measured. But from my own experience, I aver that no man can come here without receiving benefit. He cannot breathe this vital air without becoming enthused, and bearing with him new thoughts and higher aims in life. The moment he feels the glow of emulation kindling in his breast, that moment he is a new creature. He begins to leave the old ruts in which he may have been plodding all his life. The lessons he has learned are to be of imperishable value; for the flame that burns within his own breast he imparts to the community around him. We all need the inspiration which comes from generous rivalry. It does us good now and then to be outdone, in order to humble our pride and show us where we stand. We need to cultivate frendships and obliterate prejudices; to see how small we are individually and how large collectively; to be roused from inaction; to have our social and industrial life quickened and brightened by the attrition of association and competition. In a word, we require a State Society to so direct and harmonize, to so mold and Americanize, to so seggregate and unify the elements that make up the sum of public life and character, that we may, indeed, be one people--one in prosperity, one in patriotism, and one in the glory of a common country. </P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN BIDWELL IN 1876</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>BIDWELL'S ESTIMATE OF SUTTER.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>CHICO, March 10, 1881.</P>
046.sgm:<P>CAPT. W. F. SWASEY,</P>
046.sgm:<P>San Francisco, Cal.,</P>
046.sgm:<P>MY DEAR SIR:--It is not in my power, to write as I would wish--fully, suitably. For this reason I delayed, hoping to see you when I went below, and to be able to give you verbally what I can never find time to put in writing--an appropriate answer to your kind letter, of Jan., 17, ult. I called twice at 230 Mont'g'y St., and would certainly have found you had you thought to have named a time and place on the card you left for me at the Occidental Hotel.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Asking in advance your pardon for the long delay, and for incompleteness and inperfections I am sure to be chargeable with, I proceed to write what little or more I may.</P>
046.sgm:<P>GEN. SUTTER.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It seems almost a mockery to starve the noble pioneer to death, and starve his broken hearted wife to death also, and then immediately proceed to do grand things to perpetuate his memory: The State of California can never atone for the ingratitude of withdrawing the pittance of aid once extended to him. No pioneer ever did so much for this State as Sutter. Nay, I verily believe, no pioneer ever did so much for the United States. More, few men in modern times have done so much for the world at large. He suffered every hardship, privation and danger incident to pioneer life. At last his labors were crowned with success--but not success for himself.</P>
046.sgm:<P>MARSHALL'S DISCOVERY OF GOLD IN FEBRUARY, 1848.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter had proposed for years to build a saw mill. Different men at different times had been sent into the Sierra Nevada Mts., up Sacramento, Feather, and other rivers and streams to find a mill site (among others Sutter sent Dr. Robt. Semple and myself in Spring of 1846 up Feather river to find if possible a site for a saw mill). He sent Marshall to find a place, and then furnished men and all the means to build the saw mill. I wrote the agreement between Sutter and Marshall. This was in the Fall of 1847. After the saw mill was built and ready to run, except that a trail race had to he made to enable the water to flow off after passing through the wheel, Marshall happened to see (while digging this race) and picked up the first piece of gold. I could relate how this was done, but I must not do or say anything unnecessary, for time is precious. Marshall claims to have found the first piece of gold, and his claim is indisputable. But in a broader and grander sense Sutter was the discoverer, Marshall but the mere agent. In relation to that discovery, Sutter will ever be known in history. It was his discovery. In the light of results, it deserves the appellation of great discovery, because it was the beginning of a new epoch--from all States and Countries thousands rushed into California--it led to the discovery of gold in Australia, silver in Nevada, and of the precious metals in thousands of places where they have since been found--it quickened commerce and enterprise--it so strengthened the financial nerves of our own country that it was enabled to meet the shock of, and emerge, Phoenixlike, from the fires of the great rebellion--it was the beginning of an era of progress and prosperity before unknown, that had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Sutter, then, was the direct agency--the fore runner--under Providence, of the great discovery and its beneficent results.</P>
046.sgm:<P>And now I will try to add a few of Sutter's prominent traits.</P>
046.sgm:<P>As a business man, he always attempted more than he could do.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He never made any calculation about obstacles. Crops might fail, as they did more than once with him, but he never took into consideration crop failures or other possible reverses, in carrying on his many enterprises.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He always lacked adequate means, for he was always going beyond his means, trusting ever that the next crop--and the next crop and so on--would bring him out all right. He knew no such thing as discouragement.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He was generous and hospitable without measure. His establishment known as Sutter's Fort, New Helvetia, Sacramento, Cal., was the home of many and headquarters of all Americans arriving overland on this coast, and of all others who came to share his hospitality, and everything was free as water. All the early immigrations found in Sutter a friend, and in his fort a home.</P>
046.sgm:<P>If he thought any applicant in need, he never stopped to inquire as to his ability to pay, but supplied at once all classes alike. If he had one article and two wanted it, the stranger almost always was the successful petitioner.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter was a man of great enterprise. Considering his means, how straitened, in want of almost everything necessary in a new settlement, nothing but his credit and promises to pay with, what he actually accomplished, in the face of the fact too that the native Californians were from the beginning jealous of his prosperity and wished to break him up and continually threatened to do so (except during the two years of Micheltorena's administration). Sutter may be said to be a man of unbounded enterprise.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter was intelligent and prepossessing. When I first saw him in 1841, he surpassed in many respects any man I have ever known. He spoke many modern languages, German, French, Spanish, English and etc. Amidst intelligent friends and in polite society he was fitted to please and win the admiration of all. He surpassed in princely courtesy which he extended to high and low, rich and poor alike.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He believed in Republican Government, and that of the United States was his admiration. On this account, he was regarded as dangerous as Americans themselves, by the native Californians if not by all Mexico. On the arrival of our small party across the plains in 1841, as soon as Sutter heard of it and before we were within a hundred miles of his settlement (then only just begun) he, in answer to threats he had heard of hostile movements on the part Jose Castro and the Departmental Government to suppress his embryo establishment at Sacramento, wrote a letter to the authorities in which he took occasion to announce that he hoped to hear no more threats as he was not only able to defend himself if attacked but able to go and chastise them. When this missive was sent, Sutter had not even begun the fort. He had around him perhaps 20 Americans, 200 or 300 wild native Indians, 7 or 8 Kanakas, and a few others consisting of Mission Indians as vaqueros, a few trappers or hunters, Canadian French, etc., not to exceed twenty-five in number. But such was Sutter's reliance on Americans and their ability to cope with the native Mexicans, that he went on with business of every kind, sending to all parts of the country on both sides of the bay, and even to Monterey, Los Angeles, and everywhere, just as if he had written no letter or no threats had ever been heard of. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>Time will not permit me to write more. To attempt to describe the events that filled the years between 1841 and the discovery of gold in 1848, would fill a volume, and therefore I will make no attempt.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Referring to the great discovery, who but Sutter would have ransacked the then wild Sierra Nevada Mts., to find a saw mill site? It seemed at the time an accident? Was it not the direct result of Sutter's untiring energy and enterprise? I doubt if there was another man in the United States who would have undertaken in 1847 to build a saw mill in a canon in the Sierra Nevada Mts., 50 miles from Sacramento. No sugar pine lumber had ever been seen, except a little Sutter had made by hand south of the Cosumne river in 1845, and there was little demand for lumber of any kind. Houses were generally made of adobe.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter was not looking for gold, but found it; as a miner now may be looking for gold and find a diamond. The saw mill paid Sutter nothing, but it benefitted our whole country and all countries. He was under Providence the hunble instrumentality of ushering in a new era of wonderful events and great prosperity.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When we consider what Sutter did, how he lived, suffered, and died in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The past we cannot recall. The only thing left to be done in to honor his memory.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I am as always, Very Truly Yours, JOHN BIDWELL</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN BIDWELL, 1880</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ANTI-DEBRIS.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Short Address Delivered by General Bidwell at Chico.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Anti-Debris Convention, which has just closed its session at Sacramento, was largely attended by representatives from all parts of the State. General John Bidwell of this place was made Chairman of the Convention, and after being escorted to the platform, made the following remarks:</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mr. Chairman and Gentlemen of the Convention: There is no language that I can select to express the depth of my gratitude for this honor, but it should have been conferred on an older soldier in the cause, one of those who have fought from the beginning in this great battle for right. You all know the object of this Convention; it is not necessary for me to waste your time in stating it to you; you have seen it for years; you have seen your places converted into almost a widespread desolation. My mind reverts on this occasion to the time when every stream was as pure and clear as crystal. No man can measure in dollars and cents, nor with all the gold that has been taken out or that may be taken out, the value of returning these streams to their pristine purity and of clearing the rivers and the plains, and of returning them once more to their original beauty and susceptibility of cultivation. There is no man here perhaps that takes greater pride in whatever may benefit the State of California than myself. If there is a spot on earth where I prefer to live, it is California <DEL REND="cancelled"> than myself. If there is a spot on earth where</DEL>
046.sgm: <ADD><HANDWRITTEN>and for me, all my endeavors</HANDWRITTEN>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S FORT IN 1880</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>AT G. A. R. POST-ROOM.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Gen. Bidwell Relates to the Soldiers his Experience in War.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Yesterday afternoon after the decoration ceremonies at the Cemetery, Gen. Bidwell went with the Chico Guard, the Halleck Post, G. A. R., and several citizens, to the Post-Room in Armory building, where he was called upon for some remarks. He promptly responded and was received with applause. The General said that he always liked to associate with soldiers as they were a genial and warm-hearted set, and that he held them in the highest respect as protectors of our nation. In his opinion our country should have a large and well-disiplined army in the profound peace, to be able to put down any insurrection that might arise. He then proceeded to relate many interesting and laughable anecdotes of his experience in the Mexican war and his early life in California. The General said that at different times he held all military offices in the gift of the soldiers and government; and while holding the highest he had taken his turn at tramping on the picket line. He spoke of the hardships the soldiers endured; of their struggle at times for food, and of the "uniforms" they wore, made of buckskin. Sometimes, he said, the soldiers had almost perished in some of the fearful storms, having their tents and covering blown away, and being compelled to lie in water. The General said that the hardest march he ever had was from Monterey to San Diego. He kept his hearers highly interested throughout his remarks, and was frequently applauded. The speaker complimented the Chico Guard, and spoke of the deeds of valor of the old soldiers during the late war, and who had assembled that day all over the country to do honor and strew the graves of their dead comrades with flowers. He closed by thanking the company for their attention, and said that at some future day he would relate his early experience in this vicinity. </P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GOLD MEDALS AWARDED JOHN BIDWELL.  PARIS AND OTHER EXPOSITIONS.  OBVERSE SIDE</P>
046.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
046.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GOLD MEDALS AWARDED JOHN BIDWELL.  PARIS AND OTHER EXPOSITIONS.  REVERSE SIDE</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GEN. BIDWELL ON HYDRAULIC MINING.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>The following letter appeared in the Record-Union of the 22nd, written by Gen. Bidwell, giving his views upon a new order of things to spring from the system of hydraulic mining. The General looks into the future and sees a new growth and healthy development of the great foothill region, by a system of irrigation:</P>
046.sgm:<P>Eds. Record-Union: Referring to your editorial a few days since, concerning industries which may follow that of hydraulic mining in the mountains, permit me to say: Mining is a legitimate industry, and all other industries must of necessity be friendly to it. But that class known as hydraulic has grown to be intolerable, and its stoppage has become inevitable. Nothing in the line of human enterprise can be permitted to measure importance with agriculture. Hydraulic mining is a landmark never to be obliterated in the history of this State, both because of its good and bad results. The bad results are seen and known by all. They caused vast expenditures, ruin, terror and desolation. To effect even partial restoration to lands, streams and navigation will require vast sums in the future. But I believe, and all with whom I have conversed seem convinced, and we fondly hope that, with the stoppage of hydraulic mining, a new and important era in the new future will dawn upon California, and witness at least the beginning of restoration--the once crystal waters to purity, the streams to navigation, etc.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The good results of hydraulic mining do not wholly or even chiefly consist of the gold production. Vastly more gold will yet be extracted from these same mines by other processes. Nor do they consist of having given employment to labor, for the other processes will employ vastly more labor. But this is the good that hydraulic mining has done: It has taught us how to make ditches, to divert water courses, span chasms with aqueducts, overcome obstacles seemingly insurmountable.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Irrigation is the natural successor to hydraulic mining, and important beyond computation. Without it we can never know or have any conception of California's productive capacity. By showing that waters can be conducted almost everywhere, hydraulic mining has unwittingly solved a most important feature in the problem of irrigation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I take it for granted that many have seen the remarkable adaptability of the Western Slope of the Sierra Nevada to fruit culture, especially that vast belt reaching up to an altitude of say three thousand feet.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The water already flowing in artificial channels on that belt has made the transition from mining to cultivation not only possible, but easy and inviting. In such change there may be cases of hardship, but these will scarcely be more severe or frequent than the failure of mines. There is no human employment not subject to losses or interruptions. We have the best Government in the world. For every real wrong there should be a remedy. Let us be wise. Are we equal to the occasion? I believe we are. Let us then accept the inevitable, without boasting, without recrimination, without despondency.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our markets will increase with our cultivation, and there is no reason to doubt that the new order of things will bring with it, by timely and wise effort on the part of all concerned, an era of prosperity beyond our most sanguine conception--not suddenly, of course, but surely, as the dawn that emerges into day. Healthy expansion is the result of growth.</P>
046.sgm:<P>These thoughts occur to me as among the possibilities that await us.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Very Truly Yours,</P>
046.sgm:<P>Chico, January 19, 1884.     JOHN BIDWELL. </P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INDIANS HULLING ALMONDS ON RANCHO CHICO</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE COLUSA SUN.</HEAD>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN BIDWELL. 1890</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE VOICE.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Thursday, July 7, 1892.</P>
046.sgm:<P>BIDWELL and CRANFILL.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Ticket Nominated by the Sixth National convention of the Prohibition Party.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Detailed Report of the Proceedings of our great National Gathering at Cincinnati.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A Peerless Ticket, a Broad Platform and a Magnificent Convention.  Dickie Re-elected chairman of the National Committee, with Wardwell Secretary.</P>
046.sgm:<P>How the Candidates were nominated and the Platform adopted.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Ex-Governor St. John made Temporary Chairman--Dr. M. C. Lockwood Delivers the Address of Welcome--Permanent Chairman Ritter Makes the Speech of the Convention--Spirited Debate Over the Free Coinage and Tariff Planks in Which Free Coinage is Defeated.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The "Dominant Issue" Plank of the last National Platform Adopted After an Exciting Scene--St. John, Dickie and Bain Nominate Bidwell--Gideon T. Stewart Presented by Logan, of Ohio, and Demorest by Thomas of New York--How Dr. Cranfill was named as the Candid- ate for Vice-President.</P>
046.sgm:<P>CINCINATI, July 1 (Special Correspondence).--At 2:15 this morning the National Prohibition Convention adjourned without day. The story of its doings has already been told for the readers of The Voice in outline by telegraph. The detailed report of the proceedings fills many columns of this issue.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is the same old Prohibition party that the Convention has left us, but broadened and more fully developed. Of course it would have been a Prohibition Party in any event. There was no one in the Convention who would have harbored any thought of altering, modifying, qualifying or even touching the essential and distinguishing policy, character and identity of the party. This was so clear that with one accord the delegates turned their minds to other subjects of thought. Some of them were occupied with the question how to bring the Convention up to particular standards of aggressiveness in relation to special subjects. Others busied themselves with preparations to teach the Convention that there were at least two ways of thinking upon each of these other questions, and that both ways of thinking were actively in operation among Prohibitionists.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The friends of free coinage made a beautiful fight, and so did the friends <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>As for fusion, it was never heard of, and as for, "union of forces," the advocates of it, or good folks who would be glad to see it accomplished, could make no headway against the stern conditions that confronted them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The National Reformers' conference, thanks to the courtesy of the Prohibition delegates, was very creditably attended, and Edward Evans made one of his enthusiastic addresses, dwelling upon the necessity of a union of reformers with all his old-time zeal.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The resolutions adopted by the National Reformers recommending that the Prohibition National Committee place itself in communication with the People's Party National Committee, and advising a change of the name of our party to the National Reform Party, did not reach the Prohibition Convention.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The struggle for the Presidential nomination did not attain to the diginity of a real struggle. It was settled from the beginning. (As I said in my dispatch of Wednesday, Mr. Demorest gained no new supporters--at least none of perceptible weight. Neither did he make any enemies. He never had any enemies among the Prohibitionists. There were no documents or circulars issued against him, either signed or anonymous. There were editors and delegates in the Convention who had written against the expediency of Mr. Demorest's candidacy--written plainly and relentlessly because the issue had been forced; but they had done so in their own newspapers, and over their own names and in ample time. They considered the case closed. During the convention and the days that preceded it they neither printed nor uttered a word to which exception could be taken. In their delegations and their interviews with representatives of other States they took ground firmly for other candidates. Thus, the New York delegation held a caucus, and declared for Bidwell by 72 votes to 7 for Demorest. But it was a contest for preferred men and not against any man.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The anonymous circulars, assailing Bidwell were deplored and condemned, but they did not provoke a word of counter-antagonism. And although New York had pronounced overwhelmingly for Bidwell and against Demorest, she graciously yielded the floor to the leading Demorest advocate when she was reached on roll call.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The nominating speeches, and the scene that followed the announcement of the result, will never be forgotten by anyone who was present. Col. Bain's address would have graced any convention ever held. St. John and Dickie spoke with almost equal eloquence and power. The pleaders for Demorest were listened to with respect and sympathy.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The demonstrations in the convention were marked and inspiring.</P>
046.sgm:<P>That was splendid testimonial of appreciation that was awarded to Mr. Wardwell, and indeed, few of the speeches were more happily conceived or handsomely delivered than his simple address. The elegant success of Dr. Evans' appeal for subscriptions to the campaign fund awakened unbounded wonder among the newspaper men. Some of them were veterans of the daily press, accustomed to the exciting and unusual scenes of the national conventions, but they never witnessed anything like that. They could understand why Democrats and Republicans go wild for particular candidates, and even for particular so-called ideas, because those candidates and ideas stand for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Not to be forgotten was the hearty demonstration for Gideon T. Stewart when delegate Logan, of Ohio, called to memory the long and excellent services of that old warrior. It was known that Mr. Stewart could not receive the Presidential nomination, for the strength of the Bidwell forces was invincible. But the convention was delighted to testify its recognition of all that was said of Stewart.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The nomination scene was undoubtedly the most remarkable affair of the kind the Prohibitionists have ever gotten up. It was after midnight before the ballot was completed, and it was 15 minutes after when Secretaary Small, holding the tally sheet in his hand, read: "General John Bidwell, five hundred and seventy." For 11 minutes after that the able and experienced representatives of the daily press were quite at home. One would have thought that if the election of Bidwell was not altogether as sure as that the sun will rise on the eighth day of November, at least that Bidwell was very decidely "in it." It was a glorious 11 minutes.</P>
046.sgm:<P>There was another rousing time when Cranfill was selected for the Vice-Presidency. It rested with Mr. Cranfill to make it outshine the Bidwell performance, for Cranfill was there on the spot, and the convention would have stayed with him and howled for him 22 minutes or 33 minutes if he had let it do so. But he was modest. He wouldn't have it. He stopped the convention by getting out of it as soon as he had delivered his very brief speech of thanks. The convention began the campaign by following Cranfill.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Yet it did not break up at once. A woman's strong, passionate voice arrested attention and checked the retiring hosts. She stood on a seat in the Michigan delegation. She was a colored lady, Mrs. Lucy Thurman, of Jackson, Mich. Stung to the heart by the discrimination against her race at the hotels and in other places of resort, she could not permit the convention to adjourn without giving utterance to the indignation that was surging within her. With flashing eyes and burning words, she denounced the white men of the North who hypocritically talk about southern outrages and make an issue along that line in their platforms, yet refuse to eat with the "nigger" and sneer at just-minded men and women who protest against the race discrimination. This was the closing incident of the convention. Mrs. Thurman's were the last formal words spoken in it, and the last shouts were shouts of approval for the fervid advocates of the colored people.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The oratory of the convention was of high order throughout.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mr. Axel Gustafson cut something of a figure. He was conspicuous among the delegates. He was probably the most typical representative of his party in one respect; he stood for things not popular on the whole; he made two motions, neither of which received a second. Yet Mr. Gustafson enlivened the convention. The most joyous episode of it was produced by him. It was nearing the third night. A chill, raw air was 'round and about Fifteen State delegations had seconded Bidwell's nomination. These were two circumstances that a less humorous Demorest gentleman than Mr. Gustafson is would hardly have thought of connecting. But Mr. Gustafson has an eye for the bright sides of life. He arose and said with what was supposed to be great seriousness and gravity: "Mr. Chairman, it is getting very cold in here Can't some of these windows be shut?"</P>
046.sgm:<P>Talk about your Bidwell demonstrations, and your Cranfill <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>There was no more work of duty that was more grateful or did the convention more credit than its vote of thanks to Oscar B. Todhunter, the chairman of the Press Committee. The resolution was drawn up by the reporter for the Associated Press, and signed by every newspaper man and woman who had a chance to get at it. It ought to be engrossed. Mr. Todhunter was untiring from the first day that the convention began to attract the notice of the press. The arrangements that he had made for the newspaper representatives could not be improved. He was always to be found wherever he was wanted, and was at the service of every one who needed information.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Much satisfaction is expressed by the delegates at the re-election of Professor Samuel Dickie as Chairman of the National Committee, and with his fine direction of the Convention machinery.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Ctiy of Dayton, Ohio, has a Prohibition editor who can fairly claim to be one of the most enterprising in the land. J. O. Alwood is his name. He published the Dayton Liberator. Dayton is about 25 miles from here. At 6:30 Thursday afternoon Mr. Alwood placed in my hands a copy of his paper and told me to look at it. It was worth looking at. It was dated Thursday, June 30th. It had eight pages and was handsomely printed. Five and one-half columns of the first page were filled with special telegrams from the Convention Hall. The proceedings of Thursday up to 3:35 P. M., were faithfully reported in it. A picture of Bidwell was at the masthead. Yet the Liberator is only a local weekly of small circulation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The rummies looked glum. They didn't like the convention. The most disgusted saloon keeper in town is Fred Stuehrmann, whose shop is right across the street from Music Hall. Rummy Stuehrmann said to me: "Dot Brohibition Convention was no good yet. I ordered me a good many extra bottles of selzer water and weiss beer, also sarsaparilla. I thought they would want some temperance drinks. I was mistaken already. I have no use for Brohibition Conventions."</P>
046.sgm:<P>THE PROCEEDINGS</P>
046.sgm:<P>Detailed report of the Convention's work by "The Voice's". Special Correspontdent and Stenographer.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A few minutes after ten o'clock, Rev. C. H. Mead and his colleagues of the Silver Lake Quartette stepped to the front of the stage, and to the accompaniment of the organ, began to sing the National Hymn, "My Country, 'Tis of Thee." The delegates and audience arose and joined in the singing. Chairman Samuel Dickie of the National Committee, then came forward. He was greeted with three resounding cheers. He introduced Rev. Dr. J. G. Evans of Illinois, President of Hedding College, the Clergyman designated by the committee to make the opening prayer. Dr. Evans prayed for the blessing of God upon the great convention: "Our Father, shine upon this Convention with Thy wisdom. Guide those who shall construct the platform of principles and those who shall be leaders in the exercise of influence over this convention. Grant, Our Father, that the right things may be done, that the principles adopted may be in harmony with Thy will and for the good of this great nation. And grant that the men who shall be here nominated as our standard-bearers may be men of upright lives and pure hearts, and with an eye single to the glory of God and the good of this great notion."</P>
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046.sgm:<P>After more singing by the Silver Lake Quartette, Rev. Dr. M. C. Lockwood, of the First Baptist Church of Cincinnati, was presented to deliver the address of welcome. Dr. Lockwood said:</P>
046.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Dr. Lockwood's Address of Welcome.</HI>
046.sgm:<P>"On behalf of the Prohibitionists of Cincinnati I give you welcome. 'Not many wise after the flesh, not many mighty, not many noble are called in this City.' (Laughter and applause.) Your coming has been earnestly desired, that our citizens may learn that in intelligence, culture, and, best of all, character--(Applause)--the Prohibition Party has never had a peer; that on her platform are the ablest orators, among her counselors the ripest scholars, and in her ranks the cleanest manhood; that in your conventions there is the dignity of moral purpose, the enthusiasm of the purest patriotism and the calm confidence of an unshaken faith. In this you differ from a convention whose only dignity was in its numbers, whose enthusiasm was inspired in barrooms, and whose calm confidence was in organized office-holders. You represent a party which has no faction ready to barter a President for a Governor--to imitate the historic procedure in 'he Democratic Party from the days of Sam Tilden to those of Grover Cleveland. (Applause.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>"You are welcomed by those in whom the sentiment of loyalty to American institutions has survived; welcomed by those who in this City, which is under the double curse of immigrated depravity and a lawless liquor traffic, are hoping for better things. (Applause.) There are among our American population hidden fires of danger, rumblings of discontent, pent-up resentments which are full of the portents of our victory. The storm which is slowly gathering has in it the stored-up wrath of years and its work will be swift and sure.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The insolence and temerity of those against whom you are organized have fostered secret hate even in the servile office-holders in whom all love of country has not perished. From the Governor in his chair to the policeman on his beat there is a concealed hatred of the traffic. A great deal of the battle against you is sham battle. Your chief work is to overcome animal gregariousness led by political herders with the human organization of sentiment and principle.</P>
046.sgm:<P>"A belated train stood panting impatiently at a southern railroad station. The express agent was hurrying with his work, when one of his men came with a puppy in his arms. 'Hurry up,' said the agent; 'where is that dog going?' And the man answered, 'I dunno, he dunno, nobody dunno, he has eat his tag.' What would be the political destiny of the average Republican or Democrat if he should eat his tag. (Great laughter and applause.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>I welcome you on behalf of the most thoughtful, unselfish and best manhood among the labor leaders in our City. They are fast learning that industrial conditions cannot be improved apart form the improvement of moral conditions. 'The soul of all improvement is the improvement of the soul.' A better man is the first necessity of organized labor. A better manhood is not possible in an environment of drunkenness and its concomitant evils. The labor and liquor problem cannot be separated. The Prohibition Party has, naturally, logically become a party in sympathy and in alliance with the labor leaders. The word sympathy I could not use alone; its meaning has been degraded and falsified in political uses. (Laughter). There is nothing asked for by labor that can be divorced from the right we represent, and the Ohio platform has blazed a path where this Convention must begin to build a highway to the throne of power.</P>
046.sgm:<P>"And with this confidence I welcome you on behalf of the party in this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>"Friends if in anything my welcome has been found wanting, my fellow citizens will by their cordiality make ample amends, and you will pordon me, for the head has not kept pace with the heart. We meant that you should have a royal welcome, and you shall. It could not be otherwise from the Queen City." (Prolonged applause.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mr. Dickie made the following response:</P>
046.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Chairman Dickie's Response.</HI>
046.sgm:<P>"I am sure, Dr. Lockwood, that I voice the sentiments of this entire Convention when I heartily thank you for this cordial welcome to the Queen City. And it is certain that there is no danger that this Convention or any delegate in it will ever devour his tag. (Laughter.) We know precisely what ye are here for. We understand, Dr. Lockwood, where we are going. And there is no danger whatever that any influence or obstacle will divert us from our relentless purpose. (Applause.) We are here for the transaction of important business. We are here for the nomination of candidates for President and Vice-President of the United States, candidates who will remain in the field and force the fight from the hour of their nomination until the polls close next November. (Applause.) We are here for the purpose of laying down a platform of principles that shall be as unequivocal as the best English can make it. We shall be on both sides of no question. (Cheers.) It shall say exactly what it means and mean exactly what it says. We are here, I trust, to lay down a platform that shall be remarkable for its clearness and shall be as broad as we can make it, with an unequivocal utterance on every point.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But I am not to take your time. I hold in my hand a corrected list of the delegates from 43 States, as well as the District of Columbia. (Applause.) Shall I read it? (Cries of "No.") I trust not. (Laughter.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>The list was accepted as the official convention list pending the report of the Committe on Credentials.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Prof. Dickie then, in a few eloquent words of eulogy, announced that Ex-Governor John P. St. John, of Kansas, had been selected by the National Committee, as Temporary Chairman, and appointed Dr. Evans and Samuel D. Hastings of Wisconsin, a committee to escort him to the platform. As the candidate of 1884 made his way from the Kansas delegation the delegates rose as a body and made the great hall ring with their enthusiastic shouts. The cheering was redoubled as he stood at the speaker's desk smiling and bowing his acknowledgements. He spoke as follows:</P>
046.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">St. John's Speech As Temporary Chairman.</HI>
046.sgm:<P>"Members of the Convention: I return my sincere thanks, and shall be ever grateful for the distinguished honor of being chosen to preside as temporary chairman of this magnificent political convention, the greatest and grandest in sobriety, moral force and brain power, that ever convened on American soil. (Applause.) It represents a party that dares to do right because it is right, and condemn the wrong because it is wrong. It stands for peace and prosperity to every home, and death to every saloon in the land (Applause) It demands for woman equal pay in the shops and equal say at the polls (prolonged cheers): a free ballot for the white men of Pennsylvania, Massachusetts and Iowa; as well as for the black men of Mississippi, Louisiana and South Carolina; that North and South, East and West, black and white, rich and poor, every human being, should have protection to life and property (applause); that the expenses of government be levied upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>"The Prohibition Party is the only party that dares fight this mightiest curse of the world. Here we are, and we come to stay. From this hour on let no fusion, no deals, no compromise be our motto. (Loud and repeated applause) Let our platform be so broad, just, clear and comprehensive that all who love God, or home, or country can join the procession which is now ready to move on to victory."</P>
046.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Opening of the Convention Proper.</HI>
046.sgm:<P>The afternoon session of the convention began with prayer by Rev. Father Martin Mahoney of Minnesota, who prayed:</P>
046.sgm:<P>"That in this convention and in the time to follow Thou, Almighty God, mayest enlighten our minds by Thy grace and strengthen our hearts in holy purposes, so that we may gird ourselves with new zeal and greater effectiveness to the spreading of this great cause, which is destined, we trust, to gather the hearts, minds and activities of Thy people in this nation for preserving it and furthering good."</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Presidential and Vice-Presidential candidates of former campaigns were called to the platform and presented to the convention. All of these candidates are living except General Fisk. Neal Dow and General Green Clay Smith were unable to come to the convention, but the others responded when their names were called. The venerable Mother Stewart of Ohio, was also called up and introduced.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Committee on Credentials, through its Chairman, W. R. Miles, presented its report, showing that 972 delegates and alternates were in attendance. The only States not represented were Louisiana and South Carolina.</P>
046.sgm:<P>THURSDAY'S SESSIONS.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The convention opened Thursday morning at 10 o'clock, a vast audience completely filling Music Hall. Prayer was offered by Rev. J. C. Quinn, of Fremont, Ohio.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A request that Frances E. Willard be invited to the platform and asked to address the convention was presented.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>The enthusiasm of a few minutes before was revived as Miss Willard came to the front.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The rest of the morning session was devoted to the work of securing contributions and pledges for the campaign fund.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Altogether, more than $20,000 was secured--an amount exceeding the fund raised in Indianapolis in 1988 by more than $5,000.</P>
046.sgm:<P>THURSDAY AFTERNOON SESSION.</P>
046.sgm:<P>While the convention was reassembling, the Beveridges and other favorite singers rendered stirring music. The Liberator Band of Dayton, played its usual pleasing part in the preliminaries.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Judge James Black of Pennslyvania, now appeared on the platform and said that the Committee on Resolutions, after giving the most careful thought and consideration to the business before it, had completed its labors. Secretary E. J. Wheeler of the Committee, stood up and read the long awaited statement.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Each plank was generously applauded. The ones on equal suffrage and public schools were received with particular enthusiasm. The currency, free coinage and tariff planks were greeted with long cheers from those whom they pleased, and cries of "No" from those who did not like them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>FINAL SESSION.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Nominating Candidates for President and Vice-President.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The final session of the convention, Thursday evening, was opened by music by the Liberator Band. Prayer was offered by Rev. J. W. Hagans, of Indiana.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The roll of States was then called for nominations for President. Alabama and Arkansas had no candidate to present. California called on Mr. St. John of Kansas, to place Generl Bidwell in nomintion. St. John said:</P>
046.sgm:<P>"It affords me not only great pleasure, but what I esteem to be one of the most distinguished honors of my life to present the name of California's candidate for President. He went to that State long before it was admitted to the Union; went there in 1841, when a mere boy. The man to whom I refer is in every respect a self-made man. Starting out in the world without education and without means, by his own effort he has made his way; educated himself, and is today one of the best posted of men, possessed of a thorough education. He is a man who has always been in sympathy with the great body of the people; a man who knows what it is to have his hands blistered and calloused; a man who knows what it is to dig deep in the mines and work his way by the sweat of his brow; a man who knows what it is to be among and in sympathy with the men of this country. This man has served two terms in Congress."</P>
046.sgm:<P>Ex-Governor St. John then referred in scathing terms to the unsigned dodgers which had been circulated among the delegates on the eve of the nominations, attacking the character and record of General John Bidwell. Continuing he said:</P>
046.sgm:<P>"This man served two terms in Congress and it is said that he voted for the Pacific Railway land grant. He lived in California, that country so far away, and if he had not voted for this grant he would have voted against the best wishes of his constituents. He was sent there to represent them. (Applause.) He cast a ballot that met the approval of the people who sent him.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>He owns a farm of 25,000 acres, and he works it and gives employment to 250 men on that farm. He has owned it for nearly 60 years. It came to him from the Mexican settlement. When he came into possession of this land there was a little band of Indians on it, and he employed a teacher and built them houses and then a church, and the Indians are there, and General Bidwill preaches to them on the Sabbath. (Applause).</P>
046.sgm:<P>"The man whose name I present to you is a man grand and broad and generous, a man who is competent to fill the position, if elected, and God helping us we will elect him if we can.</P>
046.sgm:<P>"It has been said that if he is nominated, when the Omaha convention convenes, he will resign in favor of the People's Party nominee. General Bidwell is a true man, and I stand here and give my personal pledge that if he is nominated he will stand until the last ballot is polled in November. (Applause.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wardwell--"It has been stated that John Bidwell is a very sick man, and is unable to do the duties of this office. Will you speak on this statement?"</P>
046.sgm:<P>St. John--"That is untrue unless his wife is mistaken, and she has lived with him for 20 years and was with him yesterday."</P>
046.sgm:<P>Colorado, through John Hipp, seconded the nomination of Bidwell. Connecticut and Florida seconded Bidwell.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Iowa and Kansas seconded Bidwell.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Col. George W. Bain spoke in part as follows, in behalf of Kentucky:</P>
046.sgm:<P>"It is with great pleasure that I second tonight the nomination of California's grandest man, General John Bidwell. (Applause.) In doing so I do not endorse a man I never saw, with whom I have no acquaintance. I became acquainted with him 20 years ago. Standing by the side of Cleveland, he would tower almost 18 inches above him; and standing by the side of the Republican candidate he would hide him almost, hat and all. (Applause.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>We are told that he was in favor of the wine interest 25 years ago. So was Paul in favor of the devil before he was converted. His conversion made him a hero of Christianity. Twenty-five years ago General Bidwell had not studied the temperance question. When the conviction came to him, what did he say? Did he say, "O, Conviction, wait until I sell my vineyard for half a million dollars?" or "Conviction, go thy way, at a more convenient season I will call for thee." Did he? He said rather "Go cut up that vineyard; take that wine from the storehouse and give it to the sick: so help me God I will never take another dime from it." (Applause.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>"Some say he cannot make an active campaign. His temperance record in a campaign would be worth 50,000 speeches."</P>
046.sgm:<P>Volney B. Cushing said: "The good old State of Maine, which has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Walcott Hamlin of Massachusetts, pledged the loyal support of the Bay State to the nominee of the Convention, whoever he might be.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Chairman Samuel Dickie, speaking for Michigan, said:</P>
046.sgm:<P>"Michigan has no favorite son. She has within her ranks a man known to the Prohibitionists of every State in the Union, a man whom all the Prohibitionists of Michigan know but to love, and, knowing well, are proud to speak his name with honor everywhere. It had been the purpose of the Michigan delegation to show its love, its devotion and its desire to honor this son by a complimentary vote, but that son himself asks that the second ballot be rather expressed at this moment, so you will pardon me if I vary the usual custom and say that he whom Michigan most desires joins in expressing a desire that the Michigan delegation shall second the nomination of Gen. John Bidwell." (Applause.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>Minnesota, Missouri, through Dr. John A. Brooks, and Montana, seconded the nomination of Bidwell.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A. G. Wolfenbarger, for 18 of the 23 delegates of Nebraska, seconded the nomination of Bidwell:</P>
046.sgm:<P>"We ask for this magnificent party of the people, a man of the people. We ask for a courageous, faithful founder, a true and tried pioneer. We ask a President, who, when elected, will not travel from ocean to ocean with a travelling drunken crowd. (Applause.) We ask a President who will not set the pernicious example to the young manhood of the country by serving five kinds of wine at public banquets, or permit his name to be used in connection with particular brands of brandy. We ask for a President, one who will not ask or accept, when sent across the sea, a forty-gallon barrel of whiskey. (Applause.) We ask for a President, one whose brave little wife will not let the wine cup disgrace the table of the White House.  Nebraska, through a majority of her delegation, asks for that prince of leaders, that champion, John Bidwell of the Pacific Coast.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Nevada and New Jersey seconded the nomination of Bidwell.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When New York was called Mr. Wardwell said: "The State of New York as a delegation, has no candidate to present, but it voted 73 for Mr. Bidwell and 7 for Demorest, and under the rule I ask that the friends of Mr. Demorest may be allowed to present his name from New York."</P>
046.sgm:<P>John Lloyd Thomas was introduced to present the name of Demorest. Mr. Thomas said: "when the typical leader of the Prohibitionists declined the nomination, the great masses of the Prohibition Party turned spontaneously to one man in this country, whose name it was not necessary to spell before any man, woman or child in this great land, whose record it is not necessary to vindicate in any home tn this country, whose political record it is not necessary to explain to any man in this land or ours, and that man is W. Jennings Demorest, of New York." (Applause.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>Grandison of North Carolina, seconded the nomination of Demorest for a portion of the delegation of that State.</P>
046.sgm:<P>North Dakota seconded Bidwell.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A. A. Stevens, in behalf of 66 of the 80 delegates from Pennsylvania, seconded the nomination of Bidwell.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wisconsin said "Amen" to the nomination of Bidwell. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>Sam Small, in behalf of Georgia, which had been passed when first called, took the floor to second the nomination of Demorest.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Hale Johnson, of the Illinois delegation, introduced delegate Patton, who seconded the nomination of Gideon T. Stewart.</P>
046.sgm:<P>THE VOTE FOR PRESIDENTIAL NOMINEE.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The vote for Presidential candidates was taken as follows:</P>
046.sgm:<P>Bidwell.  Demorest. Stewart. Bascom Alabama <HSEP>   4<HSEP>    4 <LB>Arkansas <HSEP>   4 <LB>California<HSEP>  13 <LB>Colorado <HSEP> 2      1 <LB>Connecticut <HSEP>  14<HSEP>    1 <LB>Delaware <HSEP>   2 <LB>Florida <HSEP>   6 <LB>Georgia <HSEP>19 <LB>Indiana <HSEP>  22<HSEP>   10      6 <LB>Idaho <HSEP> 5 Illinois <HSEP>  24<HSEP>   13      33 <LB>Iowa <HSEP>  24<HSEP>    3<HSEP>3 <LB>Kansas <HSEP>  27 <LB>Kentucky <HSEP>  22<HSEP>    5<HSEP>4 <LB>Louisiana <HSEP> <LB>Maine .<HSEP>   4<HSEP>     3 <LB>Maryland <HSEP>  12<HSEP>    6<HSEP>2 <LB>Massachusetts<HSEP>  24<HSEP>    3      10 <LB>Michigan <HSEP>  17<HSEP>    6      20 <LB>Minnesota <HSEP>  22<HSEP>    1<HSEP>3 <LB>Mississippi <HSEP>   3 <LB>Missouri <HSEP>  22<HSEP>    2<HSEP>3 <LB>Montana <HSEP>   3<HSEP>    1 <LB>Nebraska<HSEP>  12<HSEP>    8 <LB>Nevada <HSEP>   1 <LB>New Hampshire <HSEP>   2<HSEP>    2 <LB>New Jersey <HSEP>  25<HSEP>    1<HSEP>2 <LB>New York <HSEP>  70<HSEP>   12<HSEP>6<HSEP>3 <LB>North Carolina <HSEP>   9<HSEP>    8 <LB>North Dakota <HSEP>   3<HSEP>     1 <LB>Ohio <HSEP>   2<HSEP>    68 <LB>Oregon <HSEP>   3 <LB>Pennsylvania <HSEP>  65<HSEP>   17<HSEP>3 <LB>Rhode Island<HSEP>   9 <LB>South Carolina <HSEP> <LB>South Dakota <HSEP>   3 <LB>Tennessee <HSEP>  30 <LB>Texas <HSEP>   3<HSEP>    3<HSEP>5 <LB>Vermont<HSEP>  11 <LB>Virginia.<HSEP>   9<HSEP>    8<HSEP>4 <LB>Washington <HSEP>   6 <LB>West Virginia <HSEP>   9<HSEP>    2<HSEP>1</P>
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046.sgm:<P>THE VOTE FOR PRESIDENTIAL NOMINEE.--(Continued).</P>
046.sgm:<P>Bidwell.  Demorest  Stewart  Bascom</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wisconsin <HSEP>  82<HSEP>     6 <LB>Wyoming <HSEP>   1 <LB>Arizona <HSEP> <LB>District of Columbia <HSEP>.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Totals, <HSEP> 583<HSEP>  142     184<HSEP>3</P>
046.sgm:<P>The demonstration was renewed for ten minutes after the secretary had finished announcing the vote, which was finally made as follows: Bidwell, 590; Stewart, 179; Demorest, 129; Bascom, 3.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Col. R. S. Cheves moved to make the nomination of Bidwell unanimous. The motion was seconded by one of Stewart's friends from Ohio, and adopted with a mighty shout. The convention again rose to its feet, and for ten minutes the demonstration which broke loose on the announcement of the former vote was continued.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN BIDWELL. 1891</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CALIFORNIA PROHIBITIONIST, THURSDAY, AUGUST 25, 1892.<LB>BIDWELL'S LETTER.<LB>Formally Accepting His Nomination.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Views of a Statesman.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A Thoughtful Review of Live Issues.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A Successful Vote-Making Document. The Position of the Party<LB>Fairly Stated, and its Purposes Defined--It will Command Thoughtful<LB>Attention From All Parties.</P>
046.sgm:<P>By your polite letter of this date, which I have the honor to receive at your hands, I am formally notified that the National Prohibition convention in session in the City of Cincinnati, adopted a platform of principles for the coming political campaign, and thereupon conferred upon me the distinguished honor of its nomination for President of the United States.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In accepting the nomination, which I do with misgivings as to my ability to meet the just expectations of the people, permit me to thank you, gentlemen, for the courteous and kindly manner in which you have been pleased to discharge the trust assigned to you, and through you, to embrace the occasion to express to the members of the convention and the friends of Prohibition and reform throughout the country whom you represent, my grateful acknowledgement.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is scarcely necessary to add that I am overwhelmed with a keen sense of the responsibility which I assume.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mistakes are possible, but I trust the cause may not suffer in my hands. All I have to plead is unswerving devotion to those great principles and needed reforms which have brought into existence the Prohibition party of the nation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Those who witnessed the convention in Cincinnati need not be reminded that something of unusual moment had aroused the nation, and brought together a representative body of men and women, the equal of which for intelligence and patriotic earnestness has seldom if ever been seen at any former period.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>OUR GREAT GOVERNMENT.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In 1776 our fathers made proclamation of the birth of the nation. Now, having grown to be one of the greatest powers on earth, the freest and best government ever devised, the hope of the world, this "grandest governmental fabric of human invention," our beloved American nation is, in the minds of the most thoughtful and intelligent people, drifting unmistakably towards decay, if not to sure and swift destruction.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Prohibition comes, therefore, to proclaim, as we believe, the only way of salvation.</P>
046.sgm:<P>There are well founded apprehensions that this nation which we love-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Labor creates the wealth of the country. Without labor there can be no development of resources, no national prosperity. The liquor traffic robs, impoverishes and demoralizes labor, thereby sapping the very foundations of the national fabric.</P>
046.sgm:<P>THE LIQUOR TRAFFIC.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The liquor traffic is an enormous incubus upon the nation, amounting in cost and consequences to the annual sum of not less than two billion of dollars --four times the amount requisite to pay the annual expenses of the national government, even under the recent expensive administrations.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But it is not necessary further to enumerate; suffice it to say, the liquor traffic is a standing curse; a danger to public health; the prolific source of untold political corruption, crimes, diseases, degradation and death; a public nuisance and a public immorality; in a word, it is an unmitigated and measureless evil without a redeeming feature.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Eevery consideration of justice, the public welfare, protection to labor, all cry out against this wrong. The only adequate remedy lies in the entire overthrow of the liquor traffic in every state and territory.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The liquor power leads, corrupts and dominates both the old political parties. Without the liquor support neither could make another political fight or win a victory.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The Prohibition party asks the intelligent and patriotic people of this nation this question. Are not these charges true? And if true, have we not a right to ask, How can any good men consistently support the infamous saloon business, by longer clinging to the destinies of those parties?</P>
046.sgm:<P>The family is the unit of civilized government. Protect the home and the nation will be protected.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>EQUAL SUFFRAGE.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the name of right and humanity then, let not free, enlightened and Christian America longer injure and degrade women by witholding from her that which is her inalienable right; that which will elevate American womanhood; that which will enlarge her usefulness; that which will impart to her greater ability to be the helper and co-worker with man under all circumstances and conditions, that which alone will make woman man's equal before the law and place in her hands the most efficient weapon with which to defend her rights and protect her home. I allude of course to that priceless heritage, the ballot.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In doing this Americans should lose no time. Americans, of all people under the sun, are the most nearly ready.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our women know what the ballot is and its power: they are brave enough to ask it because it is their right. They are as a class intelligent, virtuous, selfreliant, womanly, modest.</P>
046.sgm:<P>If we delay, England will take the lead in the emancipation of woman.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The nation that first gives woman equal rights with man will earn a crown of imperishable glory.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The old parties, controlled as they are by the liquor power, and by vast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>They need them this year for re-election; they will need them next time, and on as long as they have an existence. Powerful political parties invariably in time become corrupt, and utterly helpless to right themselves. The only real service they can do is to go out of existence. It is a singular phenomenon that good men will remain in affiliation with such parties and thus lend aid and comfort to the liquor business.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>THE FINANCIAL QUESTION.<LB>The financial question in our platform is briefly and fairly stated, and broad enough to satisfy all reasonable men in these words,--"The money of the country should consist of gold, silver and paper." Also that it be "issued by the government only." It should of course be in sufficient quantity to meet all demands, and the volume be so increased and adjusted as at all times to respond to the conditions of the country.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Of all the forms used by men to overreach each other in the scramble for wealth, there is none more oppressive and blighting to labor and business generally than the monoply of money. Combinations to lock up capital with the view to raise the rate of interest, or to reduce the price of labor or commodities, should be made illegal.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Take farmers for example. As a class they are compelled to be, and as a rule are, frugal. Yet there is little doubt that the mortgages which cover their farms indicate with almost unerring certainty the overcharge of interest they are obliged to pay.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>LEGAL INTEREST.<LB>The legal rate of interest on money should be made low and reasonable for the benefit of all classes, occupations and industries, and be uniform in all the states. No man ought to be compelled to pay exhorbitant interest because he is poor. If his security is doubtful, exacting from him high interest will not increase his ability to pay. As a matter of equity, all who honestly and promptly pay should have the benefit of the legal low rate of interest. If combinations may be formed ad libitum to accumulate and hoard the money and the wealth of the country, they will soon have it in their power to stop the very wheels of progress--to exercise dangerous control over legislatures, courts, and congresses, if not virtually to dictate all the affairs of the nation.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>LABOR.<LB>In a wide sense all who pursue useful occupations, professions or callings are laborers. In the busy hive of national industry there is a place for the merchant, the mechanic, the doctor, the teacher, the learned professor, the lawyer, the legislator--in a word, for all who in any manner perform useful or valuable service.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the common acceptation of the term laborers (which I may use), it is usually applied to those who labor with their hands. Happily in this land of freedom and equal rights all labor is regarded as honorable, and none more useful than manual labor.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>IMMIGRATION AND NATURALIZATION.<LB>In order to relieve the labor of the country of its abnormal and often congested condition, there should be the earliest possible revision and restriction of the immigration and naturalization laws of the United States. These laws, so inimical to American labor and the best interests of all, if not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P><LB>CAPITAL AND LABOR.<LB>The general welfare and even the fate of the nation demand that a remedy be found and applied, whether by arbitration or otherwise. Tribunals of adequate jurisdiction between men or bodies of men, be they large or small, capitalists and laborers, or employers and the employed.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Labor itself has the deepest interest in the general welfare. All its hopes are inseparably associated with the prosperity and destiny of the nation. All intelligent and patriotic Americans concede that the laboring classes, and all classes, have the right to ask and to receive ample and adequate protection under just and equal laws.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Intelligent laboring men, being in the majority at the polls, must bear in mind their own responsibility in making the laws to which themselves and all others are bound to yield obedience.</P>
046.sgm:<P>That capital sometimes over-reaches and oppresses labor is doubtless true. There seems to be no limit to human greed.</P>
046.sgm:<P>That labor is sometimes unreasonable and even vicious is also probably true. But lawlessness and lawless combinations of men, the only effect of which is to enervate and destroy, must at once be put under the ban of severe public disapprobation if this country is to prosper.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In the national hive there should be no drones. There should be room--and there is room--for all to labor, and all ought to have and must have the right to labor. It is a duty and a right to labor. It is a duty and a right that all men have to earn their bread and support their families. If it be necessary to have organizations as a defense against capital or competing labor, such organizations should be authorized and regulated by law.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>THE TARIFF.<LB>Whatever tariffs may do they do not seem adequately, if at all, to protect labor. Except the partial effort to check the introduction of Mongolians, our ports are open to all the world to come and compete with American labor. There is no tariff on labor.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We must concede that all nations have the right to levy tariffs. As Americans we are in favor of protecting all American interests. The tariff proposed by the Democratic party and that of the Republican party differ only indegree--both are sufficiently high to be termed protective.</P>
046.sgm:<P>To the objection that tariffs bear unequally--that is to say, that under them the rich pay comparatively nothing, and the masses nearly all the revenue so derived to support the national government--must be added the further objection that they are binding and deceptive.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Under the present tariff there is not a man in the United States who can tell what he pays toward the support of the national government. Impressed with this fact, which all intelligent citizens ought to know, and all people must sooner or later learn, the tariff is doubtless destined to undergo constant and numerous revisions by congress in the impossible effort to equalize all its burdens and benefits.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our national convention wisely justifies tariff as a defensive measure, which practically can but mean reciprocity.</P>
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046.sgm:<P>In a country of such vast and varied resources as ours, such a tariff system could not fail to yield a very considerable revenue.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>INCOME TAX.<LB>A further provision of the platform contains a measure of revenue of such transcendent importance as to commend itself to the favor of all classes and especially the masses, in these words: "The residue of means necessary to an economical administration of the government should be raised by levying a burden on what the people possess instead of upon what they consume."</P>
046.sgm:<P>The platform fairly, and, as I think with great wisdom, embraces the policy of laying the burden of public revenue where it justly belongs, and precisely where the ability lies to pay, namely, "on what the people possess"; in other words, on their wealth--the value of which will generally be measured in dollars by the revenue or net income it yields to the possessor.</P>
046.sgm:<P>An income tax can do no injustice, work no opposition; for where there is no income there will be nothing to pay; the rich will pay most and the poor least or nothing. This mode of revenue is no experiment in this country. During the great rebellion when every source of revenue was strained to sustain the armies of the Union an income tax was resorted to and worked like a charm.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It helped them to save the Union and will help to save the nation now in another rebellion--the classes against the masses.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Some men of course will always try to evade the payment of their just taxes. But no honest man, I think, can ever make any reasonable objection to a well regulated income tax.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The effect of this mode of raising national revenue cannot fail to be beneficent. It will relieve the poor without oppressing the rich. Perhaps no other measure possible to be derived will work greater reform or give greater impetus to general prosperity than a wisely regulated income tax. One of its results would be to favor the equal distribution of wealth; it would go far to heal the growing discord between labor and capital.</P>
046.sgm:<P>A further important effect to flow from a revenue system based on "what the people possess instead of what they consume" would be that it would at once become the interest of all, rich and poor alike, to align themselves on the side of the strictest economy in all branches of the public service.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>GOVERNMENT OWNERSHIP.<LB>There is perhaps no one issue in all the broad array of Prohibition principles embraced in our national platform of more vital concern to the material prosperity of our whole country, than that of transportation. Hence we declare in favor of government control of "railroad, telegraph and other public corporations," in the interest of all the people. If railways cannot otherwise be so controlled, then it becomes the imperative duty of government to acquire and exercise absolute ownership, especially of the great trunk lines, for we mean practical and efficient control--nothing less.</P>
046.sgm:<P>So essential is this instrumentality to our national life and prosperity in this stage of rapid transit, that whatever powers own and control the railways of the United States, intimately associated as they are with other great monopolistic interests, will have it within their sway virtually to own and control the government.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is well known that railways and their natural affiliations (the great moneyed and other corporate powers) have already a most dangerous influence in all elections and in every department of the government. They are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>But the question comes home to every thoughtful mind: is it safe for the people to surrender their rights into the hands of great corporations?</P>
046.sgm:<P>The transportation question has and will ever have an important effect in adding strength to the bonds of the national union, by multiplying the facilities for travel and the commingling of the people of all sections, thereby dissipating prejudices, forming and connecting friendships, unifying the people in language, in national spirit and love of country through the constant medium of more intimate social and business relations.</P>
046.sgm:<P>For these considerations transportation must be controlled--owned if necessary--by the Government of the United States.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>POPULAR EDUCATION.<LB>The general diffusion of morality and intelligence is essential to the preservation of the rights and liberties of the people. One State constitution has it in these words:</P>
046.sgm:<P>"A general diffusion of knowledge and intelligence being essential to the preservation of the rights and liberties of the people, the legislature shall encourage by all suitable means the promotion of all intellectual, scientific, moral and agricultural improvement."</P>
046.sgm:<P>Another State constitution has the same declaration thus: "Knowledge and learning, generally diffused throughout the community, being essential to the preservation of a free government, it shall be the duty of the general assembly to encourage by all suitable means, moral, intellectual, scientific and agricultural improvement."</P>
046.sgm:<P>We have, therefore, ample reason for the conclusion that this free popular government--this mighty empire of sovereign states can only be preserved on the basis of morality and intelligence.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The demand is therefore imperative that ample means of education upon such basis be provided at the public expense and placed within the reach of every child in the nation.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS.<LB>The transcendent importance of the common school cannot be too firmly emphasized.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our national convention has therefore wisely made prominent in its platform the American public school, which should be, if possible, the most prevalent and conspicuous object in the nation. Over it the flag of freedom should ever be unfurled, for it should be a school of patriotism as well as of intelligence and morality. The teaching of the American public school should be in accord with American ideas--with American civilization, which of course is a christian civilization; but they must be strictly--absolutely--non-secterian. The standard of morality must accord with our civilization and pervade all the books and teachings of the public school--which must not in any phase be a school of immorality.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Complaint has been made from sources that American public schools are godless and immoral, and therefore not good enough to suit some people. The remedy is, to make them good enough. Place them on a high moral standard. Eliminate from the public school every feature that has the slightest tendency to immorality; ever bearing in mind that under our form of government the conditions essential to our existence as a nation make it imperative that all public schools be free from every sectarian influence. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>In the interest of national unity there should be a national language--and that of course, the English.</P>
046.sgm:<P>No other should be the language of the public school. A knowledge of the national language so far as to read and write the same fairly well, should, in addition to good moral character, be made a condition of naturalization and the inestimable right of suffrage.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>THE CHRISTIAN SABBATH.<LB>Taking our rank as we do foremost among christian nations, we ought not, as a nation, to ignore the Christian Sabbath.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The closing of the World's Fair on Sunday is important to show to the world America's rank among the nations.</P>
046.sgm:<P>This magnificent republic, with an area equal to that of all Europe, with a population already of nearly sixty-five millions; with industries and resources vast, varied and almost limitless; and with more than a century of unexampled prosperity and remarkable history, and destined in the providence of God, as we believe, to become the leading power of the world, is even yet regarded by other nations as in the experimental stage. The enemies of free government still predict and doubtless hope to see America's downfall. America was never more on trial than it is today.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Dangers are ever present. The eyes of the world are upon us to see whether or not America possesses in a measure equal to or greater than monarchies the elements of strength and perpetuity to carry our government through all present and possible emergencies.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>WISDOM AND PATRIOTISM REQUIRED.<LB>The same wisdom and patriotism that laid the foundation will be required to preserve the temple of liberty. Our foes are more numerous than at the beginning and our dangers are multiplied. Eternal vigilance was never more necessary. The important question of the hour is: How can this republic be tided over all the dangers that threaten, and be preserved to bless the world?</P>
046.sgm:<P>The far-seeing patriot makes answer: Banish alcohol, and make the nation sober. Make the people intelligent, moral and law abiding.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Control all monopolies in the interest of the people. Banish anarchy, punish all crimes, suppress all lawless combinations. Restrict foreign immigration. Rest the right of suffrage and citizenship on the sure basis of mor ality and intelligence.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Teach all children in the American public school the sacredness of the ballot, of obedience to law, of willing submission to rightful authority, and the settlement of differences between men by arbitration.</P>
046.sgm:<P>That all the great national questions must be settled, and all dangers averted and all needful reforms achieved by the same sacred principles of unreserved acquiescence in the majority rule. Majorities make the laws, Majorities repeal them.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>ARBITRATION<LB>We fondly believe ours to be the best government the world has seen. On the principles stated of adhering sacredly to obedience to law and the abritrament of all questions to majorities, there can be no reason why our free popular government may not, under the blessings of God, endure till the close of time. The principle is of such vital moment that we cannot begin too soon to make it a feature in the curriculum in all the American public schools.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Making this the inflexible rule of our faith and practice, this proud republic, with all its vast concerns, may he easily held together by the bonds of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The principles of our Prohibition platform, as far as I have been able to refer to them, are ample to show that they cover as entirely as ought to be desired in a brief outline of party policy, many, if not the most of the prominent problems pressing for solution at the present hour.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>POOLS, TRUSTS, ETC.<LB>Our platform warrants unyielding opposition to all speculations in margins, to "the cornering of grain, money and products," to "pools, trusts," etc., and by implication to lotteries and all other modes of gambling, public and private. But further allusion to our principles is not necessary. We cover a wider field than any other political party. We claim that ours is the only party that promises anything whatever in the line of real reform.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>QUALIFICATIONS FOR CITIZENSHIP.<LB>In 1776 we needed immigration. The complaint against England was that immigration had been obstructed. But times have changed.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We make no war against foreigners as such. This is a world of competition. Every nation is competing with all other nations. Some are favored nations. Ours is one. All the world has been and still is coming to us.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But we must now begin to close the doors of self-defense. We do not want the world faster than we can Americanize the world. We have already quite enough of imported nihilism, anarchism and pauperism.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We do not ask foreigners coming to this land of freedom to change their faith. We do not propose to Protestantize or Romanize or in any manner sectarianize them. But we do insist that they shall not destroy our liberties by any attempt to foreignize or anarchize us or our government; that they should appreciate our liberties and privileges; that as a condition of citizenship they should learn to speak our national language and to read and write it fairly well.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our safety and all our future demands that our government shall never in any manner become denominational or sectional.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Unfortunately at present labor in this country is divided against itself. Banish the saloon, restrict immigration, and relief will soon follow.</P>
046.sgm:<P><LB>PROHIBITION THE FRIEND OF LABOR.<LB>Prohibition is the greatest friend of labor. No other can achieve in full measure entire relief. We propose to make labor moral, intelligent and united in the common prosperity.</P>
046.sgm:<P>To save and perpetuate this nation our hope is in the masses--in the labor--and not monopolies.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wealth is boundless in its ambition to gain wealth, and would, if it could, monopolize the very earth. Therefore, we say the hope of this nation is in the many and not the few--the many are they who labor.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Our appeal is to the good and intelligent voters of all political parties.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Religious denominations are all invited to unite in conquering our country for temperance. They can vie with each other in beneficent rivalry. Their field is our whole country and the world. We appeal to the courageous young manhood of the nation before it casts its first ballot, and to the older and veteran voters before they cast their latest--and perhaps their last vote--to vote against the saloon; that is to say, vote with the Prohibition party, for that is the only political party that dares oppose the liquor powers.</P>
046.sgm:<P>JOHN BIDWELL.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PROHIBITION TICKET 1892</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">NOT CORRECT.</HI>
046.sgm:<LB>THE SKETCH OF GENERAL JOHN BIDWELL.<LB><HI REND="bold">Copied by The Buckeye From an Exchange, Untrue in Many Respects, so Says<LB>C. C. Royce, His Business Manager.</HI>
046.sgm:<P>CHICO, CAL., July 15th, 1892.<LB>HON. E. S. WILLIAMS, ED. BUCKEYE, TROY, OHIO: My Dear Captain--I have just read your issue of The Buckeye of July 7th, wherein you publish a biographical sketch of General Bidwell and say: "If not correct, our friend Royce will please furnish The Buckeye with a sketch of the Prohibition candidate for President."</P>
046.sgm:<P>Appreciating as I do The Buckeye's well known reputation for accuracy of statement and its controlling purpose to avoid, so far as possible, misrepresentation or personal calumny, I accept the invitation to correct a few of the more important errors contained in the sketch copied by you from an exchange.</P>
046.sgm:<P>General Bidwell was born in 1819 in Chautauqua county, New York, and not "in Darke county, Ohio, near Arcanum." His father moved to Darke county, however, in 1835, but young Bidwell left there for Iowa and Missouri in 1839.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The remaining statements as to his arrival in California and the public services rendered by him are in the main correct as far as they go.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is, however, stated in the sketch given in The Buckeye that General Bidwell planted five hundred acres of wine and brandy grapes. That he set up a winery and distillery for making brandy, with powerful engines and costly machinery. That for twenty years his name stood next to the head in the list of California wine and brandy producers. That six or seven years ago he married a second wife who was opposed to the liquor traffic, and that thereupon General Bidwell became a Prohibitionist. That he still has one hundred and fifty acres in alleged table grapes, but inasmuch as the local market will not consume such a large quantity and as they do not make raisins in Butte county, the inference is thrown out that the bulk of the crop is sold to wine makers and that there is still in existence much good red wine from Rancho Chico.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The variations from the facts in the above statements are both numerous and material.</P>
046.sgm:<P>1st. The largest area General Bidwell ever had in wine grapes was between eight and ten acres, consisting principally of the Old Mission variety and a few Catawbas procured from Cincinnati, Ohio.</P>
046.sgm:<P>2nd. He began wine-making in 1864 or 1865. He dug up or destroyed the vines in 1967 and has never planted a wine grape since.</P>
046.sgm:<P>3d. He never made a drop of brandy in his life and never had a distillery      . - of any kind, with or without "powerful engines and costly machinery."</P>
046.sgm:<P>4th. Consequently his name did not stand "for twenty years as second among California's wine and brandy producers,' for the reason that he only made wine for two years and never made brandy.</P>
046.sgm:<P>5th. He was not married six or seven years ago to a second wife who then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>6th. It is true he still has one hundred and fifty acres in grapes. These are seventy-five to eighty per cent. raisin grapes and the remainder are table grapes. The annual crop has not been within my knowledge 1,000,000 pounds, as alleged, but is about one-half that quantity.</P>
046.sgm:<P>7th. None of these grapes have ever been sold to a winery, and, notwithstanding the statement that "they do not make raisins in Butte county," General Bidwell now has on hand from last year's crop about four car loads of raisins. To be somewhat more definite, the products of these vines last year was 521,447 pounds of grapes. Of these 385,786 pounds were used in making raisins; 86,300 pounds were sold as table grapes, most of them being shipped to Chicago and other Eastern markets. The remainder of the crop consisted of culls and refuse grapes and were converted into vinegar.</P>
046.sgm:<P>8th. It may interest the truth-seeker to know that General Bidwell's determination to quit the wine-making business was brought about by the following circumstance: Shortly after beginning the manufacture of wine General Bidwell absented himself from home on Congressional duties for nearly two years. Returning in 1867 he found his wine-maker had a good many visitors at the winery, and that they sometimes went away with unsteady gait. His wine-maker also informed him that he must have brandy to fortify his wines in order to make them keep. Thereupon General Bidwell abolished his winery and dug up his wine grapes. The quantity of good wine he had on hand at that time was about 1000 gallons, and this was the largest quantity he ever had on hand at one time. This wine he presented, through the advice of Rev. White, to a San Francisco hospital for medicinal purposes instead of throwing it away as he originally contemplated. The poorer remnant of his wine be made into vinegar. Since that date he has never had anything to do with the wine business.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I am, as you well know, not a member of the same political party with General Bidwell, but he is my personal friend and I have some knowledge of his life, character, and public services, which have left their impression upon California and have stamped him as one of the broadest minded, most public spirited and philanthropic citizens of the Pacific Coast. His life has been as interesting as a romance. His deeds of private charity and public beneficence have been almost without limit and his moral and business integrity have been unclouded by a single inconsistency.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Again thanking you for the opportunity so kindly proffered of correcting the erroneous statements in question, I remain as ever, sincerely yours,</P>
046.sgm:<P>C. C. ROYCE.</P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CERTIFICATE OF MEMBERSHIP, CALIFORNIA PIONEERS</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE STORY OF A GREAT CALIFORNIA ESTATE.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>Rancho Del Arroyo Chico, the Home of the Late General Bidwell.</P>
046.sgm:<P>By Charles Howard Shinn.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Nothing in the social and economic history of California is more interesting than the rise and fall of the Spanish land-grant system under which, a hundred years ago, nearly all the soil thought worth having was given in vast tracts to prominent families. Musical place-names often remain, but one after another the unfenced cattle ranges of the ancient ranches have been changed to highly cultivated fields, orchards and gardens. Close-knit modern horticultural communities, and even in some cases populous cities, occupy most of these fertile ranchlands of the days before the American conquest. Out of the hundreds of old Spanish ranches, not one at the present time retains its dignity and historic importance under modern conditions. Some indeed, like beautiful Camulos made classic by "Ramona," can never be forgotten, but Camulos lives only because of the genius of Helen Hunt Jackson, and not as a great and world-famous estate.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The feudal idea of little principalities ruled by aristocratic families failed with the Spaniards, and, as the Americans came in, the system failed with them also. General Sutter's one hundred square miles of superb soil surrounding his famous fort, General Fremont's lovely Mariposa grant with its mines and forests, Major Reading's broad leagues among the swift rivers of Shasta, failed and faded long ago, as did many other pioneer schemes to have and to hold great territories after the Spanish ranch fashion. Strangely enough, it was reserved for a tall, sedate, simple-minded young man fresh from the "Middle West," who came to California in 1841, to found tn the Butte district, in the heart of the Sacramento valley, the most memorable and historic of all the great California ranches. Living there as a gentleman farmer for more than half a century, he rounded out and completed a most useful and indeed stately career.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Not here, in this brief account of the greatest of California farms, can the charming story of the life of General Bidwell be fitly told, and yet it is a human document of surpassing interest. He was born in 1819 in Chatauqua county, New York, and his parents soon joined the westward-moving currents. In 1839 young Bidwell, then in his twentieth year, went to Iowa Territory, starting on foot from his home in Ohio, "with $75 in cash and a knapsack." He passed on through Iowa, turned down into Missouri nearly to Fort Leavenworth, taught school, and almost immediately secured a claim. I have heard him exclaim, "Such a beautiful place it was, rolling land, springs, trees!" But as it turned out, he could not legally hold the claim, an outsider "jumped" it, and a French trader who had been to California happening along with his picturesque tales, young Bidwell and others organized an association and began to plan for a journey across the continent. In the spring of 1841 they started, sixty-nine men, women and children, the first emigrant train to California, and though many of the party afterwards turned off on the Oregon trail, thirty-two, after six months of danger and hardship, reached Sutter's Fort in the Sacramento valley. Thus before Fremont, the "Pathfinder," had even planned his first exploring expedition to California, this little group of Americans had made their trail across the Rockies and the Sierras.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Young Bidwell, coming thus to California in 1841, when there were only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>During these years this man of little schooling, but of close observation and keen thought, kept his journals, and these together with his various contributions to magazines and books, form as a whole a most exact and truthful account of early California as he saw it. So rare and so fine a simplicity abides in his historical writings that some day they will be gathered up to become one of our Pacific coast classics.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Through the great gold excitement of 1848-53, General Bidwell was almost the only man on the Pacific coast who steadily held to the doctrine that the region really needed homes and farms far more than mines and camps. In fact he was studying horticulture as best he might, under great difficulties, chiefly at the old Spanish Missions. Colonel Royce tells me that the first fruit trees planted by General Bidwell at Chico in the year 1847, were obtained by him at San Luis Rey, in San Diego county, which involved a horseback ride of about twelve hundred miles. General Bidwell has told me many details of his early visits to the Missions of San Jose and Santa Clara, to find out all he could about figs, olives, oranges, grapes and other fruits and to obtain seeds, roots and cions.</P>
046.sgm:<P>While thousands of men in feverish'49 were prospecting here, there and everywhere, and tearing down the ancient mountains, Bidwell was for the most part visiting the gold camps and other parts of California, incidentally making valuable observations on soil, climate and productions, and, after a brief experience of his own in mining at the famous Bidwell Bar where stands the first orange tree of Northern California, he settled down on his own ranch, a tract of land which for beauty and quality has no superior in the entire state --an hour-glass-shaped delta in the midst of the Butte country, between two fair streams that flow into the Sacramento. This was that Rancho Chico where C. C. Parry, John Muir, Asa Gray, Sir Joseph Hooker and nearly all of the nature students of the past fifty-five years have been welcome guests. At first it was used only as a stock range, but by 1858 he had four hundred and fifty acres under the plow, twenty-seven of which were in garden and nursery, and thirty in orchard. The richness of the soil was marvelous; one field of ten and one-tenth acres produced 738 1/2 bushels of Sonora wheat. He started a store, laid out a town, sent produce to the mines, established all sorts of new industries; but found time, nevertheless, to move many native trees and shrubs from the Sierras to his arboretum.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Before me, as I write, is the final deed from the United States Government to John Bidwell. It is written with great care on many pages of parchment--fit for centuries of duration. It sets forth in legal form the history of the grant--that on November 18, 1844, William Dickey obtained this land from Governor Micheltorena. Dickey had been Bidwell's partner, and Bidwell secured the grant and surveyed it; then Dickey wanted to go to his old Eastern home, and sold his interest. Therefore, pursuant to the congressional act relating to land claims, Bidwell filed his petition in 1852; the decree of conformation issued in 1853 was affirmed by the United States District Court in 1855, was signed by President James Buchanan April 4. 1860, and went on final record in Butte county in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>During his life, General Bidwell gave a tract of land worth $10,000 for a forestry station, now under charge of the University of California. He also gave the site of the State Normal School at Chico, worth $15,000; his other gifts, public and private, were numberless and continuous. It is simple truth to say that his superb estate was held by him merely as a trust for the community in which be lived. Forced from time to time into public life, he was a state senator, congressman from his district, non-partisan candidate for governor, delegate to national conventions, and Prohibition candidate for President. He also served long, and with singular ability, as a Normal School trustee.</P>
046.sgm:<P>One of the best things done by General Bidwell and his wife (who has co-operated with him in all his undertakings) was their care of the Indians whose ancestral home was on the ranch. They accepted, as did no other landowners in California, the full responsibilities of the situation. By unwearying kindness and patience, by encouraging sobriety and thrift, by protecting these poor Indians aginst lawless aggression, and by constant personal efforts to teach and Christianize them, the ancient village of Mechoopda is now peopled by faithful, honest industrious men, women and children living in their own homes, helping to support school and church, and becoming with each generation better able to "hold their own with white folks." To them the Bidwell house is ever "The Mansion," and Mrs. Bidwell their "white sister;" though they have a chief, she is the real head of their community. The General died April 4, 1900, and at his funeral dark Indian children from Mechoopda scattered wild flowers on his grave, while white children of Chico strewed garden blossoms; Indian girls sang a hymn; Indian men bade a most striking farewell to their feudal head, the founder of Rancho Chico.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bidwell, the present owner of this most beautiful estate, was Miss Annie E. Kennedy, of the city of Washington, a daughter of an old and prominent family, and she was married to General Bidwell in 1868. It was a happy day for California when this earnest, high-souled, charming woman came here to give herself, as she has, to the community in which she lives, and to all manner of good causes throughout the state.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The ranch has been especially fortunate in its active manager, Colonel C. C. Royce, of Ohio, an officer in the war of the Rebellion, and from 1866 to 1885 connected with the Indian Bureau and the Bureau of Ethnology. His monographs upon Indian history, lands, etc., have given him deserved high rank as a tireless investigator. In 1888 he assumed charge of Rancho Chico, gradually systematizing its various departments, taking cares from the shoulders of General Bidwell, introducing modern methods and harmonizing conflicting local interests, until he has become an indispensable factor in the evolution of the estate. Cautiously progressive, full of executive talent, loyal to the ranch (which somehow creates and develops loyalty in all those who share its fortunes), Colonel Royce has naturally become one of the best known men in his district. It is to his notes that I am indebted for many of the statistics of the Rancho Chico.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The whole estate is famous for its superb single trees, native and exotic, so that a striking monograph could be written upon tho "Trees of Rancho Chico." But the most notable specimen and the finest oak tree in California to the Sir Joseph Hooker oak, which stands in the center of a large glade about a mile from the forestry station. It is a Quercus lobata, or California white <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Rancho Chico has always been an experiment station on a large scale. Its orchards and gardens have tested everything sent them by private persons or by the government. Hundreds of varieties of fruits, vegetables, cereals, etc., have been shown by General Bidwell at succssive state and county fairs. In every department of horticulture generous sums of money have been spent to obtain the best. In 1888 the statistics of the ranch as given by Dr. Parry were as follows:</P>
046.sgm:<P>Area devoted to field crops, principally grain and hay, 7,000 acres. Area devoted to field, orchards and vineyards, 688 acres. Area devoted to field, open pasturage and forest, 14,000 acres. Average yield of wheat in fair seasons, 100,000 bushels. Average yield of barley in fair seasons, 50,000 bushels. Average yield of hay (chiefly used on the ranch), 1,000 tons. Stock: 1,000 cattle, 150 milch cows, 300 horses and mules, 500 hogs.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Much of this old orchard of 1888 has been "grubbed out" and new plantations made. At present there are 1,630 acres of bearing orchard. In addition to orchard, there are annually about 8,000 acres sown to wheat, barley, corn, hay and alfalfa, and there are some 12,000 acres profitably used for stock range. The greater part of Rancho Chico will long remain a superb estate, illustrating the finer possibilities for good, inherent in individual ownership. (Jan. 1902.) </P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>JOHN BIDWELL*--A CHARACTER STUDY.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>By Will S. Green, of Colusa.</P>
046.sgm:<P>"The world is some better because he lived."</P>
046.sgm:<P>Were it the purpose of this paper to give a biography of General John Bidwell, I should have to lay stress on the fact that he was born in Chautauqua County, New York, August 5, 1819; that he came to California in 1841; how his life was blended with the affairs of the State; that he was a delegate to the National Democratic Convention in 1860, and went with the Breckinridge wing of that party; that he came out strongly for the Union as soon as that issue was made; that he was elected to Congress in 1864; that he was a brigadier-general of the State militia; that he was defeated for the Republican nomination for Governor in 1867; that he ran on what was known as the "Dolly Varden" ticket, and was defeated by H. H. Haight for Governor; and that he was the nominee of the Temperance party for President. But other men have been through much such experiences as these whose lives have not entitled them to live on in the love and esteem of the generations. I shall confine myself to such incidents as go to show the character of the man, and, I think, show that "the world is some better because he lived."</P>
046.sgm:<P>General Bidwell was not a success as a politician; and if the reader does not understand why he was not when he is through with this paper, it will be owing to a want of power on my part to portray character.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He was a determined man. When a boy he determined that he was going to have a better education than the country schools of the backwoods of Ohio afforded. He walked 300 miles to the Ashtabula academy, where he took a scientific course, including civil engineering. He thought the Pacific coast was going to develop rapidly, and he determined to reach it. Starting westward, he fell in with an immigrant train and crossed the plains.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Everybody who has been on the plains has been struck with the near appearance of snow on the mountains, and many a man has been disappointed in not being able to reach it. Young Bidwell saw it, started for it, and did reach it; although he did not get back to camp until the next day. He brought some snowballs in his 'kerchief to show that he did reach it. When he settled at Chico, he wanted to plant trees and vines, but he did not know where he would find a nursery nearer than San Luis Rey, in San Diego county. He saddled up a horse and started after them, and the stock he brought back on that horse formed the nucleus for the great orchards of Rancho Chico. The ride, going and coming, was not less than 1,300 miles. He was not hampered with roads and fences, but he could not go as the bird flies. He explored the Sacramento Valley on horseback, and the map he made would be considered a very correct one now. Stony Creek runs parallel with the main Coast mountains about forty miles before it turns to the east and debouches into the valley. Young Bidwell saw that there must be a valley to the east of the high mountains, and as he was on an exploring expedition--all alone--he determined to go over there. He knew, of course, that he would meet Indians who had never seen a white man, and who might resent the coming of one, but he had determined to go and he went, and laid Stony Creek down on his map. He met Indians there who wondered much at the manner of man, but he did not fear them. He had been among Indians before to whom the white man was something new. Children, animals and wild men instinctively know their friends. Bidwell's disposition to the Indians--and to all mankind--was one not only of friendship, but of love, and they instinctively trusted him. But the fact that he went shows determination and courage of a rare order. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>He was a just man. And speaking of the Indians reminds me that no incident I could relate would show this trait better than his treatment of the Indians. He had seen what civilization had done for the Indians, and when he went to the Rancho Chico he determined to try to protect their rights. He gathered even those not on his land onto it, and gave them a chance to make a living. He taught them to know the living God, and later on built a church on the lands set apart for them, and often worshiped there himself. He furnished them school facilities, so that they are educated. When the town grew up around them, he protected them as far as possible from the corrupting influence of "civilization." And when he died, he left it incumbent on his widow to provide a home in perpetuity for the Indians. Each family has its allotted ground and household. They occupy considerable valuable land with their homes, their stock, their gardens and orchards. And John Bidwell taught them how to acquire all these things, and how to use them. I have seen many heart-rending stories of the removal of the Indians from their homes to make room for civilization, but I have not heard of another instance like this. John Bidwell was a just man.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He was a Christian. In his pioneer life he kept the Sabbath Day holy. His people were Baptists, but he attended worship wherever he found Christian service. He was the largest subscriber to every church in Chico. He connected himself with the Presbyterian Church, and spent $13,000 in the erection of a church in Chico. People have thought him straight-laced and sectarian, but in fact every man who worshiped God was his brother. Straightlaced Presbyterians are supposed to be somewhat prejudiced against the Catholic Church, but he gave this church a block, one-half of which was sold for enough to build a church. In his Christian work, he included temperance. He believed that intoxicating liquors were the bane of the race, and he had no compromise to make with the traffic in them. To have been Governor, or President of the United States, he would not have agreed to sign a saloon license. His religious principles, his determination and his love for all mankind combined on that.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He was a public-spirited man. He was depended upon to head every subscription for anything that was considered of benefit to Chico--and he always did it. He spent $50,000 on one mountain road to bring trade into Chico. Some twenty-odd years ago I made a survey for a railroad from Colusa to Chico, and undertook to raise $100,000 subsidy. With one voice, everybody said, "Start with General Bidwell." I went to see him. He said it had been a hard year on him; that he had not paid the interest on his indebtedness; that he would like to do something worth while for the enterprise in hand, but, all the circumstances considered, he thought that $10,000--one-tenth of the amount to be raised by the two towns and between--was all he could stand; and he set it down. That night there was a fire. I went to it. It was a hay barn belonging to General Bidwell. It was certainly incendiary, and he had several incendiary fires just before. The hay lost was worth $10,000, to say nothing of the barn. I went to see him next morning, and asked him how he felt about the subscription. He did not say he wanted the paper back, but he said if he had not signed it he believed he would ask the postponement of the enterprise until he felt more settled about the incendiary fires. I handed him the paper, and left for home. He would not have asked it back. When the people of Chico undertook to get the Normal School located there, General Bidwell was in Europe. They wanted a location, and wired him asking him what he could do in that way. Quickly came the answer so characteristic of the man: "Any place on Rancho Chico is at your disposal except my dooryard." He made drives all over his fine grounds for the use of the public. I have not in mind <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>He was precise and particular in all things. Every magazine or paper that he cared to keep over the hour was marked when he had read it, and carefully laid aside. He classified and carefully set down in a book kept for the purpose every plant or flower, giving its English and its botanical name. He was a great lover of botany; he loved it because it was a part of Nature, and all his works showed that he loved Nature--loved the handiwork of God. He was particular in all his accounts. He had an account with all persons with whom he had any dealings, kept in a precise manner of his own. He knew every day how he stood with all mankind, and it was his aim to know how he stood with his Maker. Knowing how he stood, he kept his end up fully to every mark that Justice could command--and if he wanted to allow something to the other side, that was with him. An instance of how he did things in this way is told by a foreman. The foreman went into his office and said: "General Bidwell, that man who got the load of fruit last week has peddled it all out, and comes back and wants another load on credit. I think he will never pay." "Well," said the General, "let him have it. I understand he has no means of supporting his family. It may help do it." If one could now see that book account so carefully kept, one would see a characteristic credit thereon. Being particular about his own language, never allowing a vulgar or an obscene word to pass his lips, he was naturally somewhat particular about those with whom he associated on intimate terms. He was fastidious about his dress, and being a man of commanding physique, he got the reputation of being proud and haughty.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It is just here that I wish to remark upon that misconception of character. There was no bond of sympathy between General Bidwell and an impure person. There is usually a bond or want of it felt on first introduction. There are men who have forced themselves, through political or business interests, to ignore the instinct until it is not heeded. Give a man the character of being over-religious and over-particular about temperance, who is dressed with precision and who has such a physique as Bidwell had, and a person of opposite character would say, on introduction, that he was "stuck up," or that he was proud and haughty. I knew General Bidwell for half a century, and I never saw another man whose heart beat so kindly for people in the humbler walks of life; never one who would go farther to lead a man from the path of vice, and put him on the right road; never one more easily approached by anyone who had confidence in himself of being worthy of approaching a good man. I know I have thought more of myself, because during all these years John Bidwell maintained a liking for and a confidence in me.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Children approached him always with the utmost confidence. During all his life on the Rancho Chico the Indians came to him with all their difficulties and disputes, and he was their judge and jury, deciding everything in so just a manner as to lead to perfect acquiescence. Of course, he liked to have at his mansion a man of high standing in science, literature, the arts, men at the head of this church or that; and, attracted by a man of means, of learning, of high character, many of these visited his home. This lent color to the notion of his haughty and exclusive disposition. Can the reader imagine such a man as I have described being a successful politician.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Of the many conplimentary things said of him when he died, I think the following by the Board of Education of Chico described his character more exactly than any that came under my observation, and I think it worth preserving in the pages of "Out West": </P>
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046.sgm:<P>General John Bidwell died April 4, 1900. Death came to him unwarned, swift and painless, but the day and hour of that coming concerned him not, who was always ready; and yet General Bidwell loved the world, and all she gave of good; the trees, the flowers and vines, spoke for him a language that filled his soul with happiness, and springtime zephyrs, the angry winter winds, the rushing water in its ceaseless journey to the sea, and every voice of Nature was to him a song, finding responsive echo in his heart.</P>
046.sgm:<P>His lifework was to learn all that was good; to teach and educate; to uplift and ennoble humanity. He was the foe of ignorance and vice, friend and patron of enlightenment. When from his bounty he gave his choice gifts for the advancement of education and morality, this he did not as a charity, but in the line of his high ideal of citizenship and patriotic duty, as sacred trusts for high and lofty ends. Of none could it be better said,</P>
046.sgm:<P>"His life was gentle, and the elements So mixed in him that Nature might stand up And say to all the world, 'This was a man."'</P>
046.sgm:<P>Colusa, Cal.</P>
046.sgm:<P>*This study of General Bidwell, written by a lifelong friend, will be followed in subsequent numbers of "Out West" by the publication of General Bidwell's reminiscences, of his life in California before 1850. These are of great interest, and valuable as historical "sources."--Ed. </P>
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046.sgm:<illus entity="a046-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[Map Showing the Subdivisions of the John Bidwell Rancho]</P>
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046.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>REMINISCENCES OF THE CONQUEST.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>(The following paper was written by General Bidwell many years ago, in an entirely informal and impromptu manner, for the use of Dr. S. H. Willey, who was gathering material for a study of the conquest of California. It contains his estimate of the situation of affairs at the outbreak of hostilities, written before any of the standard histories were issued, and has therefore the value, impossible in any late statement, of being his entirely fresh and independent understanding of the matters spoken of, unaffected by the comparison of notes now possible. General Bidwell intended what he wrote merely as rough notes, which he expected Dr. Willey to revise and sift; but it would lose so much of its value as an original document, as well as of its impromptu force of statement, if revised, that no effort has been made to reduce it to more studied literary form, and the "repetitions" the writer speaks of, have been left to carry their own emphasis. He says in closing:</P>
046.sgm:<P>Through many interruptions I have attempted to explain the beginning of the war. But I regret that it is out of my power to transcribe and condense. In answering to the clauses as numbered, I find I have been guilty of frequent repetition. Could I have seen you for a day or even less time, I could have told you much more and much better than I have written.   .  . Writing is not my forte. Otherwise I should have corrected many things I have seen in print relating to the early history of California.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The existence of this manuscript of General Bidwell's has been known; it has passed from hand to hand somewhat, and has through private perusal affected at least one of the recent histories of the conquest (see Royce's California, pp99-102, 121); but except for a few quoted paragraphs, it has never before been given to the public.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It was written in the form of a commentary upon an account written by Henry L. Ford for Dr. Willey; the "clauses as numbered," referred to above, are the clauses of Ford's statement or rather of a condensed summary of them. The original of this statement from Ford, Mr. Bancroft obtained from Doctor Willey, and is one of his authorities for the history of the episode; but though he had later papers from General Bidwell, this original version was not in his hands.--ED.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>Henry L. Ford I knew very well--saw him for the first time at Sutter's Fort in 1844. I cannot recall how or when he first came to California. My impression is that he came by water,--also that it was later than 1842; but in this I am doubtless wrong. He was killed by the accidental discharge of a pistol some nineteen or twenty years ago in Tehama County.</P>
046.sgm:<P>While I am certain to differ with Captain Ford in some things, I attribute to him no intention to pervert the truth. He was earnest and sincere in his views, at the same time he was headstrong, and at times even to blindness. If he understood a thing one way, he was intolerant to any other view of the same thing. He was never guilty of dissimulation, and therefore if he ever erred by tenaciously clinging to peculiar or partial conclusions it was an error of the head and not of the heart.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In justice to Captain Ford I wish to say: In the stirring events which began the war in California he was one of the actors: one of the first, being near, to see General Fremont passing down the Sacramento Valley, so soon after he (General Fremont) had been overtaken by Lieutenant A. H. Gillespie (bearer of dispatches from the United States) on the borders of Oregon. The fact of seeing a courier in pursuit of Fremont excited both interest and curiosity in the few settlers and hunters in and about this great valley. The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Besides, if Lieutenant Gillespie did not intimate (and I do not think he did, because I was the first white man he met in ascending the Sacramento River, and he would intimate to Captain Sutter if to any one, with whom I was very intimate) that something was "in the wind," it required no such intimation to convince all that something unusual was up. But Fremont's return set interest and curiosity ablaze. Stock-raising and hunting were the principal occupations. Every one had horses and guns, and always carried his blankets, and could mount and go where and when he pleased. There were all kinds of men here--some, but few in comparison to the whole, who had grants of land and had settled--some who lived with those having grants --some intending to become Mexican citizens in order to obtain grants for themselves--some who never intended to settle permanently--some who roved about hunting--some working at one thing or another in the towns or on the ranches. (I wish to be understood that a large majority of the Americans and other foreigners--for all not Mexican or natives were called foreigners--had no grants, no families, no homes, no fixed location. Some might become fixed--some never intended to remain permanently--some had no intentions, merely stayed, hunting when they pleased, hanging about the ranches. In those days there were no hotels, and such a thing as paying for board was unknown. In a word, there were two classes, the settled and the unsettled. The latter predominated, were always foot-loose, and were the first to reach Fremont and participate in the first act of war. Then all were compelled to carry on the war in self-defence, of course.) Of these some were old hunters from the Rocky Mountains, and had trapped their way into California via Oregon and the Sacramento Valley; others were sailors who had deserted from ships touching this coast.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Some had been in the country long enough, and had been so unfortunate as to feel the lash of the law as executed by the Mexican alcaldes and military commandants. These had an intense hatred of everything Mexican. Nothing would suit them as well as war--at least some. They were at times very imprudent in talking about it. In 1840, (the year before I came to California,) this imprudence was carried so far that many Americans were arrested and sent in chains to San Blas. From the time of my arrival in California in 1841, until the war with Mexico in 1846, every year was filled with rumors--Americans, especially a certain class, were always talking of establishing an independent government here, or revolutionizing the country and annexing it to Texas: Californians were always talking of expelling Americans. In a word, Americans and Mexicans had become in a sense enemies. Many Americans held Mexicans as of little more importance than Indians. All that such wanted was an opportunity--any cause would do--in order to engage in acts of war.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The taking of Monterey in 1842, by Commodore Ap Catesby Jones, hushed for a moment but did not help the matter. The coming of Governor Micheltorena from Mexico, with an army of five hundred, in 1843, gave for a time quiet to the country, and especially to Americans and other foreigners, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Pio Pico issued flourishing proclamations from time to time, the purport of which was to restrain the illegal introduction of foreigners into the country, intimating expulsion, etc., but the real aim was against Americans. Whenever there was a rumor that Castro or anybody else was concocting some movement against Americans the news would fly like the wind--go in the night from place to place, wherever there was an American, and traveling in the night, Americans would find their way from hundreds of miles around to Sutter's Fort. After talking the matter over, (the feasibility of beginning a new government), drilling for a week or more,--standing guard beginning to grow irksome,--some talking of making raids on the California ranches and taking off thousands of cattle and horses to Oregon, and hearing that all was quiet on the coast, (showing that the rumor had no foundation in fact), then they would all quietly disperse. Six months or a year might elapse before another such excitement.</P>
046.sgm:<P>So suspicious were Americans, many unnecessarily so, that the least movement, even a friendly visit on the part of prominent persons, would be interpreted into hostile movement or intentions. I, myself, was once led to believe that a hostile movement was contemplated against the Americans, and traveled in the night from the Bay to Sacramento. The truth was, Castro with a few soldiers was escorting a distinguished Mexican peace commissioner, who was on a friendly visit to Sutter! <ANCHOR ID="n26-1">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-1">Don Jose Castillero came (as he had been in the habit of doing on similar occasions--for nearly all of Micheltorena's predecessors had like him been expelled) to reconcile the new order of things here to that of Mexico. He it was who recognized as cinnabar the heavy red ore (at the place now known as New Almaden, which he named), which had long been known to the people and to the Indians, who used it for vermillion to paint their faces. This was in the fall of 1845.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>But these rumors had this effect--Americans had learned to be always on guard; they (I mean the more considerate class) had learned to weigh signs of danger and put to a considerable extent a true value on them; they had learned how to come together if there should be danger; they had a place to come to, Sutter's Fort, and they had a place of secure retreat, up the Sacramento Valley to Oregon.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Those who had property and had settled in the country to make it their future home, were generally in favor of peace; while those who had little or no permanent interest here were as a rule always ready and anxious for war. All foreigners would have been glad to exchange the feeble and changeable regime under Mexico for a strong and permanent government like that of the United States. The civilized population of Upper California (which embraced all of the present State of California) was estimated in 1844 at twelve to thirteen thousand. This number would include all of the Spanish race, and some of the more intelligent and civilized of the Indians. Yet when not over one hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The prejudice was as nearly as great on one side as on the other, as regarded Americans and native Californians. But accessions to the American element were becoming more frequent every year. American war vessels as well as merchant, were multiplying. Our party (in 1841) were the first to cross the plains to California--thirty-two in number. The same year a smaller party came in later via New Mexico, also about twenty-five came from Oregon, mostly trappers. In 1842 a party of about thirty went across the plains to Oregon, wintered, and in 1843 came to California. The same year a party crossed the plains, in all some forty or fifty in number. (This might be called two parties, as it divided and came in by different routes). In the spring of 1844 Fremont reached California, and some ten or twelve of his men remained in the country. In the fall of 1844 a company of some forty crossed the plains. This party was the first to come up the Truckee, and the first to succeed in bringing wagons into California, Elisha Stevens was the captain,--and strange to say, he was a gold miner from Georgia, and came on purpose to discover gold, and did find the color of gold near Salt Lake. In 1844 also a party of some twenty-five came from Oregon--mostly Canadian French trappers. In 1845 a company from Oregon, also two across the plains, reached California, say about fifty in all. In February, 1845, about thirty trappers and others came via New Mexico. Also later in the fall of 1845, Fremont with a portion of his second exploring expedition to California, made his appearance.</P>
046.sgm:<P>While all these arrivals were taking place (amounting, I am willing to say, to four hundred, because I have not included those who may have left vessels or who may have come in vessels from Oregon and elsewhere on the Pacific Coast) there were continual departures to Oregon and elsewhere, say one hundred. Estimating the number of foreigners already in California when I came in 1841 at fifty, and the number that remained of the arrivals from and including 1841 to 1845 at three hundred, we have three hundred and fifty foreigners, including Fremont's exploring party, mostly Americans, scattered along this coast for a distance of six hundred miles. Of the foreigners thus far I have counted only the men. Of women and children there might be one hundred.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Thus I have endeavored to give an idea of the number and character of the American element in California at the beginning of the Mexican war in 1846.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Jose Castro was the leading military man of the Californians. He had the magnetism to raise revolutions on short notice, but he had no other resources. General M. G. Vallejo was more intelligent, and was also military in taste and practice; had been commander-in-chief. Governor Juan B. Alvarado was a civil leader--just the considerate, statesmanlike man to advise and hold in proper check the impetuous Castro. Pio Pico was a considerate man, slow but sure--nothing bad or vindictive, unless driven to it by Castro. Andres Pico had the dash of a Murat. These were the leaders of the native Californians. They were shrewd men. I should have included among the leading spirits, Pablo de la Guerra,, Don Juan Bandini, Jose Maria Covarubias, Santiago Arguella, and others. In view of their growing familiarity with Americans from the coming of merchant and occasional war vesels, as well as from land arrivals, and of their knowledge of the growth and power of the United States, and of the weakness of Mexico, I am forced to believe that the California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>So much by way of preface--and I fear the preface may be longer than the work in this case. I might as well state here:--When Arce was attacked, and the horses taken from him, which was the first blow that began the war, I had been absent from Sutter's Fort about three days on the Feather River up in the mountains, looking for a suitable sawmill site. Sutter had for years been resolved on building a sawmill somewhere. Others had searched for a place but without success. Doctor Robert Semple (a very tall man, who afterwards laid out the town of Benicia) was sent with me. We reached the North Fork of Feather River near the Toto Indian village. We had no time to go farther and the country, to me, did not look favorable for making lumber. Semple said, "Raft it down the river,"--down the canon of the North Fork! Because I refused to join in a favorable report to Sutter, Semple resolved not to return to Sacramento, but to find his way across the Sacramento River and go to Sonoma. But before we parted we heard of Fremont's return to California, and Semple made for his camp, in the Butte Mountains. Too late for the attack on Arce, he was just in time for the expedition to Sonoma.</P>
046.sgm:<P>On reaching Sutter's Fort I first learned of Arce passing with horses and of their having been taken from him. Captain Ford's date of this event is, I think, exact. But in regard to the number of men with Arce I think he was in error.<ANCHOR ID="n26-2">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-2">The date given by Ford is June 9th; the number of men twenty-three. Vallejo, in notes on the same account, says there were. five men.--Ed.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>And now I will recur to my reference marks (1), (2), (3), etc.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The sentences (Ford's) commented on are these: (1) "American settlers have begun to come in from over the plains, and over the mountains in considerable numbers. Mexico has just lost Texas in consequence of immigration from the United States, and is exceedingly sensitive lest she shall lose California in the same way. The native California officials warmly sympathize in this feeling. . . . . The native authorities . . . . began to contemplate driving away foreigners generally, especially those from the United States.  (2) They held a Convention at Sonoma to agree upon a course of proceedings, but what their determination was never became known, though it was rumored that some were in favor of invoking the protection of a foreign power.<ANCHOR ID="n26-3">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm: (3) The policy <ANCHOR ID="n26-4">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm: really adopted, however, was that of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:driving the settlers away. General Castro proposes to get ready to put this policy in force. He sends Lieutenant De Arce to the Mission San Rafael <ANCHOR ID="n26-5">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-3">  On this last sentence Vallejo comments: "There was no such Convention held in Sonoma." It is, however, clearly a version of the story of the Monterey junta, for which Vallejo himself is responsible.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-5"> Vallejo notes here: "De Arce got no 'Government horses' nor any other horses at San Rafael, but I let him have forty head of well broken ones,"--at Sonoma, that is.</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>(1) The naturally impulsive native Californian had not viewed with indifference the annually recurring immigrations from the United States, but they were helpless. Mexico was too distant to aid, and there was no certainty of foreign aid. In 1845 there was some talk that England might negotiate for and take California to prevent its falling to Texas or the United States. Reports said that a number of the leading Californians held a consultation in Santa Barbara, and that correspondence was going on between the English Counsul here and the British minister in Mexico, looking to England's acquisition of California. Most, if not all, native Californians would have acquiesced in such an arrangement as against the United States. But they could not have had much encouragement there, other wise Castro, Pio Pico, and other leaders, would not have fled to Mexico as they did when the war began in 1846 without making a single stand. It was natural that there should be some resistance after the war was begun. It is true, when Fremont went towards the coast with his exploring party of sixty armed men, approaching Salinas Valley, the Californians protested and made some demonstration. When he peaceably withdrew and left for Oregon, all was quiet again. There were no hostile demonstrations or even threats, to my knowledge. We in the Sacramento Valley felt entirely secure. Others, dispersed throughout the country nearer the coast on both sides of the Bay, were wholly exposed in case of danger, and would have fled to Sacramento on the least notice. But there was not a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>(2) It may be that prominent individuals paid General Vallejo a visit. If so, that was nothing uncommon. If Castro were to be one of such a party, and at the same time bring with him a few soldiers to collect the scattered horses belonging to his department, then indeed rumor could shout, War and Expulsion!</P>
046.sgm:<P>Vallejo had been the military chief under Governor Alvarado. But he was superseded in 1843-4 by the arrival of Governor Micheltorena. The expulsion of Micheltorena in 1845 made Pio Pico Governor, and Castro Commander-in-Chief. But up to the spring of 1846 Castro had not even sent for the horses belonging to the military service on the north side of the Bay. But he happened to do so just as Fremont happened to be coming from Oregon! That is all there is in it, I think.</P>
046.sgm:<P>No doubt Californians would have been glad to invoke foreign protection. They knew Mexico never could protect them, for it was both weak and distant. A few of the more shrewd probably thought that California was inevitably drifting toward the United States, and were making up their minds to be reconciled. As early as 1842 Vallejo was heard to say that "some day California would belong to the American Union." And I believe others thought so.</P>
046.sgm:<P>In 1846 the American power had become quite strong. They could have surely stood their ground for a long time with Sutter's Fort to aid them. If worst came to worst they could have safely retreated to Oregon--and Californians knew it, for they were tools. Macnamara, the Irish Catholic priest, may have given encouragement to some by proposing to bring some 10,000 Irish immigrants, but there was no hope of aid in that way very soon, nor at all after the trouble here began.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Is it not a little strange that if Castro was about to make war against American immigrants or settlers, and these so excited about it as to ask Fremont's aid, that I should have known nothing of it, and been looking for a sawmill site, with only one man--and he proposing to find his way alone to Sonoma?</P>
046.sgm:<P>(3) If Castro really intended to inaugurate the expulsion of Americans, he could have gotten horses everywhere--California literally swarmed with horses. Besides he would have had more need of horses on the north side of the Bay than on the other side. Neither would he have made a display by sending horses via Sacramento at such a time, for he could have quietly swam them across the Straits of Carquinez, which was a common occurrence. I once swam eleven horses over myself, and safely, at that place.</P>
046.sgm:<P>(4) It is impossible to believe Arce so indiscreet as to let out such a secret at such a time, and at such a place as Sacramento. And if it were possible that he did, there was no time for settlers to become aroused and to congregate at Fremont's camp, and then overtake Arce on the Cosumne, only fifteen miles from Sacramento. Fremont was then sixty miles off; most of the settlers were still farther away; Arce merely stayed one night at Sacramento, or passed making no stay at all except to call on Sutter.</P>
046.sgm:<P>(In a supplementary memorandum General Bidwell adds: "Arce certainly would never tell such a secret at Sacramento; but supposing he had done so, Sutter would have known it, and I knew him well, and my relations with him were such that he would surely have told me.") </P>
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046.sgm:<P>You ask if it was known what was the purport of the dispatches brought by Gillespie to Fremont. I answer, no. But the general understanding which I gained from being with Fremont, Gillespie, Kit Carson, and others, in the war that immediately followed, was this: The dispatches to Fremont were confidential and mostly verbal. All that was written, Gillespie committed to memory, destroyed, and rewrote after passing through Mexico: Senator Benton, in a letter sent by Gillespie, (also committed to memory and destroyed I suppose), advised Fremont of the wishes of the President, Polk. Gillespie was armed with a simple letter of introduction from the Secretary of State. And the sum total of letters and dispatches was, that war against Mexico had been predetermined; that while it was not certain, it amounted almost to certainty; Mexico might accede to certain demands, but there was very little probability that she would; and Congress might possibly not second the purpose of the President, for Gillespie left Washington in October, 1845, to go through Mexico in search of Fremont; and that he, Fremont, with his exploring party, was to hold himself in readiness to co-operate with such forces as might be sent to take and hold possession of California.</P>
046.sgm:<P>After the war was all over it was said that Fremont had been instructed in the dispatches brought by Gillespie to conciliate the California people, with a view to counteract the designs of England towards California. When Fremont withdrew from California, in the spring of 1846, I feel quite certain he carried away with him bitter feelings toward the native Californians. He withdrew peaceably, but his withdrawal was hasty and must have been regarded by himself, if not by others, as almost compulsory. He was greatly disappointed on account of the resistance which prevented his going to explore as far south as the Colorado River. He did not, probably, expect an opportunity to retaliate to come so soon, but it having come he was unable to resist or deter--could not wait for the news of war; but must provide ample excuses for his action in case there should be no war. Hence, the effort to make it appear that the settlers were threatened with expulsion.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I know, too, that Fremont was not very kindly disposed toward Sutter (nor toward me because I was with Sutter) when he left Sacramento for Oregon. His brief absence had made no change.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter was always most kind and friendly toward Americans. His desire for the United States to acquire California, and his unbounded admiration for "the great republic" of the United States, were known to all Americans. Sutter's Fort was a protection to all Americans, and his house a home to them and to all other foreigners. While Sutter was opposed to any premature and ill-advised steps to revolutionize California, he was ever open and earnest for the United States to acquire it. If there was real danger of Americans being attacked and expelled, Sutter was in more danger, for on account of his friendship for Americans he was distrusted, and, if possible, more hated than they. His fort, which was their protection, was to Californians an object of dread, a menace. The native californians always regretted that Sutter had been permitted to gain a foothold, and there were threats to nip his embro settlement in the bud, as early as 1841, before the fort had even been begun. And Sutter, on hearing of the arrival of our company, sent word to the Californians that they must stop threatening him, for he was not only strong enough to defend himself, but was able to go and chastise them! Sutter relied wholly on Americans, and they on him. Mutual interest, a common defense against a common danger, brought and held them together. Sutter's safety was their shield.</P>
046.sgm:<P>When trapping parties went forth, they started from Sutter's fort. When they got through trapping, they returned to the fort. So with hunters. It was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Arce coming along as he did was the first object Fremont saw to strike at. The route of Arce struck the Sacramento River at what is now Knight's Landing in Yolo County, a point nearer to Fremont's camp at that time (in the Butte Mountains) than to Sutter's fort. After Arce had passed on toward the fort, William Knight, hearing of Fremont at the Buttes, went there as likely as any way out of curiosity, and this is the way that Fremont had the first news about the horses and Arce.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sutter had no warning from Fremont or anybody that war was about to be begun. The valley was peace and quiet. No settler, the truth of history compels me to say it, had any apprehension of danger. After Fremont's retreat toward Oregon the excitement which his attempt to reach Monterey had caused among the Californians subsided. I was making ready to start to Los Angeles on business. Sutter was shocked when he heard the news, for he did not know what it meant. The party sent from Fremont's camp to capture the horses purposely avoided Sutter's fort, and some one carried the story to Fremont that Sutter was unfriendly; Fremont soon came to the fort--the next day, I believe--and told Sutter "if he did not like what was going on he would put him across the San Joaquin River and he might go and join the Mexicans!"</P>
046.sgm:<P>(5) "Since they commence to act in self-defense, they determine to proceed further."</P>
046.sgm:<P>(5) Self-defense! There was no self-defense about it. I am aware that Fremont and Gillespie in their official reports attempted to justify the beginning of the war with the plea that it was in aid of American settlers who were in danger and acting in self defense! Others perhaps may have repeated the same plea (taking their cue from the beginners). It might have been said, and truly, perhaps, that there was neither strength nor permanence in the government here; that as a consequence there was no adequate security for life and property; that England had designs on California, and there was no time to be lost; that the attitude of California as a department of weak, distant, and convulsive Mexico in the past (by turns unfriendly to Americans and revolutionary toward Mexico, expelling her governors almost as often as sent) was anomalous, gave no promise of a better order of things for the future, and made it a fit prey, and therefore liable to be seized at any time by any foreign power, to the prejudice of the United States; and that the danger of falling into the hands of some other power was sufficient to justify Fremont in beginning war just as and when he did. I am the last one to say anything against the war or its results, for no one could have longed more than myself to see California become a part of the Federal Union. But I do not wish to be a party to the making of a wrong excuse. There was no excitement, no danger, till Fremont began the war by sending his party which attacked Arce, captured his horses, and let him and his escort go with a defiant message to Castro.</P>
046.sgm:<P>At this time Americans, few in numbers, not exceeding three hundred or four hundred, were scattered from Sacramento and Russian River valleys to San Diego. Those in the Sacramento valley, being isolated, could have been readily notified and congregated, but very few of them knew that anything was intended till the blow was struck. If the Americans really were in danger, is it possible to conceive a more unwise thing than the beginning of war at such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>The men who first gathered at Fremont's camp and composed the party that went to attack Arce, were mostly trappers and hunters. They had their antipathies. War with Mexico or Mexicans was to them right. A color of an excuse was enough to start them. A hint or a wink from an American in uniform was more than sufficient at such an opportunity as Arce furnished.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The question is, did he do it? I point to the facts that the first hostile party left his camp; that possibly some of his exploring party went with it; that the party returned to his camp and brought the spoils to him; that the next expedition (to Sonoma) also started from his camp, and the prisoners, General M. G. Vallejo, his brother, Salvador Vallejo, his secretary, Victor Prudon, and his brother-in-law, Jacob P. Leese, taken in their private houses, were first brought to Fremont's camp and by him ordered to be taken and kept at Sutter's Fort. When a call was made for help by those who remained in charge of Sonoma, Fremont with all his exploring party went to their relief, and scoured all the north side of the Bay to find an enemy, but without success.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Therefore I do say Fremont and he alone is to be credited with the first act of war. Truth compels me to say, the war was not begun in California in defense of American settlers. It may be there was a drawn sword hanging over their heads, but if so they did not know it, and Fremont must have the credit of seeing it for them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I know that at the beginning men who were taking part in the first scenes of the war seemed to understand that they were engaging in a war for independence, and that the movement was in their name,--and somebody must have suggested this idea to them, and there was but one man who could have done it at that time.</P>
046.sgm:<P>It was curious to see how willingly men acted under that plea to justify their course. The first act of war was pure aggression, but it was called selfdefense. But all were glad when we found war had been declared. The raising of the American flag at Monterey by Commodore Sloat was joyful news.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont evidently anticipated the war, for he subsequently declared that Commodore Sloat raised the flag in Monterey because he heard of his (Fremont's) operations at Sacramento and Sonoma, and that thus the country was saved to the United States by his early action, and kept from the British government. But my point is this: Fremont began the war; to him belongs all the credit, upon him rests the responsibility. The benefit accrued to Americans; therefore the ultimate responsibility lies at their door. But as a great and free people they ought to stand by the truth: they wanted the country--they took it--and afterwards paid for it.</P>
046.sgm:<P>(In a letter of a week later the writer reiterates this.)</P>
046.sgm:<P>Your quotation from Com. Sloat is, I am fully persuaded, the truth. But Fremont did not claim the credit of being the cause of Com. Sloat's early action. But no matter what Fremont or any one else did, our great American nation, right or wrong, inspired everything, paid for everything, reaped all the benefit, and she must bear the ultimate responsibility. She cannot afford to falsify history and say one of her agents was helping certain people in selfdefense to gain independence, when such was not the fact.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I am not in the habit of writing or speaking--but to the extent that I do, whether in letters or by word of mouth, I always enter my protest against false colorings and wrong pretenses--as I understand things. </P>
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046.sgm:<P>At the time Fremont began the war, if there was any danger, I did not know it; if anyone was afraid of expulsion, I did not know it; every one was pursuing whatever business or occupation he thought best. I was about ready to start for Los Angeles, intending to go through the San Joaquin Valley, via Tejon (then only an Indian village) and San Fernando, with one man only to accompany me! Strange that I did not know of the terrible danger that impended.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We ought to face the music--tell the truth, even if the truth condemn us. The quotation from Commodore Sloat was from a letter which he wrote in 1855 to Doctor William Maxwell Wood, United States Navy, ind was as follows:</P>
046.sgm:<P>I am most happy to acknowledge the very important services you rendered the government and the squadron in the Pacific under my command at the breaking out of the war with Mexico. The information you furnished me at Mazatlan, from Guadalaxara, was the only reliable information I received of that even, and which induced me to proceed immediately to California, and upon my own responsibility to take possession of that country, which I did on the seventh of July, 1846. (Signed)     JOHN D. SLOAT.</P>
046.sgm:<P>(6) "They charge the garrison." Gen. Vallejo <ANCHOR ID="n26-6">*</ANCHOR>
046.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-6"> General Vallejo writes: "There was not a sentinel on guard and not a man in the garrison. There was not a solitary soldier here at the time except my orderly."</NOTE>
046.sgm:<P>(7) Captain Ford's dates and details are mostly if not wholly correct. I dissent, however, from what is said about resistance to an order to leave the country. The proclamation of Ide was full of such allusions. But old threats and rumors which had lost their force had to be revived, and revised into new editions by those who needed them in the new emergency.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Previous to Fremont's first act of war there was no imminent danger, hut once begun, the war had to be carried on: Americans were forced to come together, act in concert, and as soon as possible assume the offensive.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Having taken part, it was not difficult to persuade men to justify the steps taken by the plea that they were acting in self-defense; that independence was possible and would reward their labors in the end; that they had a right to recall past threats and rumors in proof of their present danger. And these things were so often repeated at the beginning that some, doubtless, did believe them.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Commodore Sloat won the race with the British admiral Seymour from Mazatlan to Monterey, and raised the American flag. Fremont claims that he did so only because hearing of his operations in the north. If this is so he began the war none too soon, and his having done so was the immediate cause, and he should have the credit of checkmating English designs, and of saving California to the United States. But I do object to any one saying he did it in defense of American settlers, and at their solicitation. No one needed any defense, and no one knew of intended hostile designs except Fremont and those at his camp. Except the two Americans who are said to have joined them at Hock Farm, and Monterey, and another man who went with the party from the American River, where they took supper, not a single one composing the party that struck the first blow, except perhaps Montgomery and two or three others <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Instead of claiming that he "joined the American settlers in raising the flag of independence and overturning the Mexican government," it would be more in accordance with fact to say that Fremont induced as many as came to him to begin and carry on war, and that he rendered all possible assistance, and that until the flag was raised at Monterey by Commodore Sloat, and it became everywhere known that war existed between the United States and Mexico, it was called a movement for self-protection on the part of American settlers and for independence.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Doctor Willey adds to Ford's account: "According to Doctor Tuthill the whole battalion was called together at Sonoma on the 5th of July, Sunday being the Fourth that year, and on the following day commenced the pursuit of Castro.")</P>
046.sgm:<P>(8) In regard to this date Dr. Tuthill is, I think, one day out of the way. By calculation the Fourth of July, 1846, comes on Saturday. Fremont had been as far as Bodega and San Rafael in search of De la Torre, but without finding him returned to Sonoma, where I was at that time. His arrival was, I think, in the morning. All the men were called together in the afternoon.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont complained of the want of discipline on the part of some, and stated the absolute necessity of thorough organization. W. B. Ide, Pearson B. Reading, and myself, were requested by Fremont and Gillespie to report a plan of organization.</P>
046.sgm:<P>We failed to agree. Mr. Ide insisted on including his proclamation, (which he had from time to time issued when he was chosen captain, at or about the time of the raising of the bear flag), which would make a report too cumbrous. I did not choose to subscribe to the plea of self-defense to justify the first movement. Reading dissented for those or some other reasons. But neither two of us could agree; and we had no time to delay. The hour for the meeting to organize had nearly arrived. So we agreed each to submit his report to Gillespie, and let him (without knowing who had respectively written them) to choose the best.</P>
046.sgm:<P>He chose mine, which was very short, and simply recommended, to be signed by all, a few lines, the purport of which was that we all agreed to go into thorough organization, for the purpose of gaining and maintaining the independence of California. All present signed it. The election was held. H. L. Ford and Granville P. Swift were elected captains.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The next day, which was Sunday, July 5th, preparations for a march to Sacramento were going on. There was not a word, to my knowledge, said about going after Castro. In the evening there were dancing and general rejoicing.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Monday, July 6th, the march for Sacramento began, but not until afternoon, for more horses and some other things were required. General Vallejo's caballada was brought, and many horses taken from it. Some cattle were also taken. The whole force must have amounted to one hundred and fifty, besides the men left at Sonoma.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Friday, July 10:--We arrived at Sacramento, and camped on the north bank of the American River, some seven or eight miles from Sutter's fort. Whether it was feared that Castro would be coming round to attack us, or why it was that we went so far away, when there was abundance of grass as well as corrals for the horses near by, I cannot imagine. It was the next day, I think,--Saturday, July 11, that the news came that Commodore Sloat had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>Sunday, July 12:--Fremont with all available men set out for Monterey.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Monday, July 13th:--While stopping for dinner on the Moquelumne River, the declaration or agreement so extensively signed at Sonoma was produced, and all who had not previously done so were requested to sign it, which they did. This was the last I saw of that document.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Tuesday, July 14th:--Crossed the Stanislaus River.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wednesday, July 15:--Crossed the Tuolumne River--camped on the San Joaquin River.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Thursday, July 16:--Crossed Coast Range through Pacheco's Pass. Messrs. Snyder, Martin, and Foster met us. (Jacob R. Snyder now lives at Sonoma, Julius Martin at Gilroy).</P>
046.sgm:<P>Saturday, July 18:--Passed mission of San Juan Bautista--Purser Fauntleroy and party joined us.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Sunday, July 19:--Arrived at Monterey. Frigate Savannah, Commodore Sloat, in the harbor. Frigate Congress, Commodore Stockton, had recently arrived.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Thursday, July 23:--California Battalion organized--officers commissioned by Commodore Stockton--Fremont, Lieutenant-colonel in command.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Friday, July 24:--Battalion embarked for San Diego on sloop of war Cyane (Capt. Samuel R. Dupont; lientenants, S. C. Rowan, G. L. Selden, G. W. Harrison, E. Higgins; sailing master, J. F. Stenson; surgeon, D. Maxwell; purser, Rodman M. Price who ran for Congress in 1849 here, but was not elected, subsequently was elected Governor of New Jersey; lieutenant of marines, W. A. F. Maddox; midshipmen, John V. M. Phillips, E. Vandenhorst, Albert Allmond, Horace N. Crabb, R. F. R. Lewis, E. Shepherd).</P>
046.sgm:<P>Wednesday, July 29:--Arrived at San Diego.</P>
046.sgm:<P>The foregoing dates and data are about all that I can decipher from an old and almost obliterated diary kept by myself. But even if I could make out more I would forbear torturing you with dry details, which have long since lost their interest except to those who were the actors and witnesses.</P>
046.sgm:<P>I ought to state also that I regard its one reason why the Californians, so impulsive and ready for fight and revolution, did not do more fighting at the very start. Every man had his own horses and arms. Castro had only to sound his bugle to call a large number together.</P>
046.sgm:<P>Fremont's wearing an American uniform was enough to make any one suppose (and even Americans did suppose) that he had authority from the United States government for doing just what he did. Consequently opposition to him would be opposition to the United States. His acting as he did was sufficient to indicate that he had high authority. A few weeks before he had withdrawn from the country. A courier overtakes him and he at once retraces his steps and begins war! This perhaps was sufficient to cause even Castro to pause long enough to assure himself as to who and how strong the enemy was.</P>
046.sgm:<P>But then the question is, Why was the pause so long? There was really nothing that could be called fighting oreven remonstrance, until the American flag had been everywhere raised, the country considered conquered, and peace been proclaimed. And now for the reason:--</P>
046.sgm:<P>It has always been my impression that Vallejo, when a prisoner, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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046.sgm:<P>A few hot heads like Flores and Andres Pico, Juan de la Torre, and Ramon Carrillo, without any official authority, did succeed in getting up a considerable revolt. This began in September, and all the fighting that deserved the name of war ensued, terminating with the battle of the Mesa, near Los Angeles, in January, 1847.<HSEP>JOHN BIDWELL.</P>
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046.sgm:<BACK><DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>TABLE OF CONTENTS.</HEAD>
046.sgm:<P>1. Biographical Sketch of John Bidwell.<LB> 2.  Diary of Trip Across the Plains 1841.<LB> 3.  California Before the Gold Discovery.<LB> 4.  Fremont in the Conquest of California.<LB> 5.  Early California Reminiscences--1 to 8.<LB> 6.  Translation of Passport of 1841.<LB> 7.  Translation of Sutter General Title of 1844.<LB> 8.  Address Before State Agricultural Society--1860.<LB> 9.  Address Before Butte County Douglass Convention--1861.<LB>10.  Address Before Northern District Agricultural Society--1865.<LB>11.  Address Before State Agricultural Society--1867.<LB>12.  Address Before State Agricultural Society--1868.<LB>13.  Address Before Upper Sacramento Agricultural Society--1869.<LB>14.  Address Before The Farmer's Union--1873.<LB>15.  Address Before State Agricultural Society--1881.<LB>16.  Letter to Captain W. F. Swasey--1881.<LB>17.  Address Before Anti-Debris Convention--1882.<LB>18.  Address to Grand Army of Republic--1882.<LB>19.  Views on Hydraulic Mining--1884.<LB>20.  W. S. Green on Bidwell's Chinese Record--1886.<LB>21.  Proceedings of National Prohibition Convention--1892.<LB>22.  Letter of Acceptance of Presidential Nomination--1892.<LB>23.  Royce's Denial of Campaign Slanders--1892.<LB>24.  Story of a Great Ranch--1902.<LB>25.  Character Sketch by W. S. Green--1903.</P>
047.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-047</TITLE>
047.sgm:<TITLE>Notebooks of James Gillespie Hamilton, a merchant of old Westport, Missouri (1844-1858). Transcribed and edited by Katharine Jones Moore: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
047.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:"California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
047.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
047.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
047.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
047.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
047.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
047.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
047.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>55-26724</LCCN>
047.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
047.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 96166</COPYRIGHT>
047.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><illus entity="a047-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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047.sgm:<HI REND="underscore">NOTEBOOKS OF JAMES GILLESPIE HAMILTON</HI>
047.sgm:<P>A Merchant of Old Westport, Missouri</P>
047.sgm:<P>(1844-1858)</P>
047.sgm:<P>A Sequel to "Dear Cornelia" -</P>
047.sgm:<P>A Series of Letters Written in 1857-1858</P>
047.sgm:<P>by James Hamilton to his Wife, Cornelia -</P>
047.sgm:<P>Transcribed and copyrighted in 1951</P>
047.sgm:<P>by Katharine Jones Moore, their grand-daughter</P>
047.sgm:<P>NOTEBOOKS COURTESY OF FEARN HAMILTON CROSS</P>
047.sgm:<P>TRANSCRIBED AND EDITED BY KATHARINE JONES MOORE</P>
047.sgm:<P>NOTEBOOKS OF JAMES GILLESPIE HAMILTON<LB>(1844-1858)</P>
047.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT 1953</P>
047.sgm:<P>By</P>
047.sgm:<P>Fearn Hamilton Cross 1509 West Ninth Stillwater, Oklahoma</P>
047.sgm:<P>and</P>
047.sgm:<P>Katharine Jones Moore <DEL REND="overstrike">3544 Kerekhoff Avenue</DEL>
047.sgm:<P>This copy is for:</P>
047.sgm:<P>Who is a son (or daughter) of</P>
047.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>" (or daughter) of</P>
047.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>(or daughter) of</P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD><HI REND="underscore">NOTEBOOKS OF JAMES GILLESPIE HAMILTON</HI>
047.sgm:<P>Due to the efforts of the Native Sons of Kansas City, Missouri old Union Cemetery remains as a pioneer memorial in the busy district of Twenty-eighth Street and Warwick traffic-way. In this quiet spot there are no wraiths, no memory of parting tears--only the calm and joyful remembering of lives well spent, the recognition of the immortality of courage, industry, intelligence applied, and love of life and mankind. The names carved on shafts of stone are the identification marks of men and women who nurtured old Westport, whose spirit survived to build a great and beautiful Kansas City. Here, somehow, the cacophony of traffic is muted, and it is not difficult to picture these people busily founding homes and industries in an era of rapid expansion--thrilling to the symphony of hoof-beats, rolling wagon wheels, and gay farewells of the emigrants traveling the Santa Fe Trail. One reads a name and ponders: "I should like to know that person, should like to hear him speak, and see the laughter of friendship in his eyes--exchange ideas with him!" And then, suddenly and unexpectedly perhaps one does meet him personally--through a bit of history, a letter, a faded picture, or a diary.</P>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>And now--Fearn Hamilton Cross of Stillwater, Oklahoma, daughter of Hays Hamilton, youngest son of James Gillespie Hamilton, and Katharine Jones Moore, daughter of Ella Hamilton Jones, seventh child of James Gillespie Hamilton, share with you graphic intermittent scenes from his private life from December 1844 to July 1864--as gleaned from two little leatherbound memorandum books. These books, although obviously filled with random jottings show the meticulous care which we well conclude characterized his formal business account books and ledgers,--whether in ink or pencil in small, legible, and neat handwriting. Although his grammar and spelling are not always perfect, his high intelligence and keen attention to people and facts are reflected in all entries. These are not always chronological, which indicates that he evidently utilized blank pages at various times.</P>
047.sgm:<P>Tho earliest notes are in a small tan book. On the back of the front cover we find:</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Memo of wood from Wm. Matney 1847 March 1st - 1 Load (hawld by Matney "  13    1/2 cord <HSEP>" <HSEP>"  H "  15    1/2 <HSEP>"  <HSEP>" <HSEP>"  Bon "  18    1/2 <HSEP>"  <HSEP>" <HSEP>" <HSEP>"  (small load) May 1847 - above a/c settled - JGH</P>
047.sgm:<P>C. Finley (5th) 5th March 1838 J. G. H.<HSEP>14th <HSEP>"   1838</P>
047.sgm:<P>"The first Potawatomie payments I was ever at was Christmas, 1838 </P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>On the first page we find:</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Commenced housekeeping 7th Dec., 1844. at A. B. McGee farm, left 1st March, 1847 and moved to Johnson house. Kitty commenced on Thursday 16th Jany (45 <HSEP>"   went home<HSEP>" <HSEP>"<HSEP>6th Febry.</P>
047.sgm:<P>The Fool Chief was killed by one of his own tribe near the Shawnee meeting house on Tuesday 28th Jany, 1845 he was the principle chief of the Kaw tribe. A very (? torn) man and a great scoundrel.</P>
047.sgm:<P>March 24/45  To make Scout Corn. Pull the corn as soon as it is in roastineer, not too old, and boil it until it is nearly cooked sufficient to eat and then shell it and spread it out to dry and you will have what is called scout corn. tho squaw corn is the kind to make it of Some rost the corn but boiling is pref (?)(faded)"</P>
047.sgm:<P>The population of Westport in 1846 was 700 - we can well imagine that a good portion of that population was known by the "merchant James G. Hamilton"--that he served them in his store, that he swapped family news, recipes, formulas, and home remedies with them. The next few pages contain some of them:</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Recipe for Whitewashing</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Take half a bushel unslacked lime and slack it with boiling hot water cover it during the process. Strain it and add a pack of salt dissolved in warm water. three pounds of ground rice boild to a thin past put in boiling hot, half a pound of powdered Spanish whiting, and a pound of clear glue, dissolved in warm water. Mix, and let it stand for several days, then keep it in a kettle on a portable furnace and put on as hot as possible, with a painting or whitewash brush.</P>
047.sgm:<P>May 8th, 1845     J. G. H.</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">A Remedy for Sore Throat</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Mix a penny worth of pounded camphor with a wine glass of brandy pour a small quantity on a lump of sugar, and allow it to dissolve in tho mouth every hour, the third or fourth generally enables the patient to swallow with ease.</P>
047.sgm:<P>Dec. 20th, 1845 (Medical Journal</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">A Cure for the Toothache</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"1 tablespoon full spirits 1  <HSEP>"  <HSEP>" <HSEP>"   vinegar 1 tea   <HSEP>" <HSEP>"   salt Mix them together and hold the liquor in your month, it will give immediate relief. March 10th, 1847"</P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>The Shawnee, Kansas, Miami, Wyandot, and Potowatimee Indians who figured prominently in the early history of Missouri and Kansas were his friends. I recall that in my childhood my adored grandmother told me of how his Indian friends came to pay him silent and incoherent tribute during his illness.</P>
047.sgm:<P>From Francis Parkman's famous book on the Oregon Trail we have this observation as he passed through Westport in April, 1846: "Westport was full of Indians, whose little shaggy ponies were tied by the dozens along the houses and fences. Sacs and Foxes, with shaved heads and painted faces, Shawanoes, and Delawares, fluttering in calico frocks and turbans, Wyandots dressed like white man, and a few wretched Kansas wrapped in old blankets, were strolling about the streets, or lounging in and out of the shops and houses." On his return in September Francis Parkman suggests that Indians had ceased to be a novelty, for he paints a nostalgic portrait of the village: "At length for the first time during about half a year, we saw tho roof of a white man's dwelling between tho opening trees. A few moments after, we were riding over the miserable log-bridge that leads into the center of Westport... We passed the well-remembered tavern, Boone's grocery, and old Vogel's dramshop, and encamped on a meadow beyond.</P>
047.sgm:<P>The preceding historical bits seem to blend with the next few pages of James G. Hamilton's notebook:</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Wawalapi one of the principal chiefs of the Shawnee Indians died on the 3d Oct. 1843 with consumption, he was a member of the Methodist church and one of the most talented Shawnees I ever knew, and the greatest orator in the tribe, he was a man of great influence with his people which was very unfortunate for them as he was a very extravagant man and cost his nation large sums of money which was appropriated to his own use, while many of his people were suffered to go in want and suffer for food and raiment while their chief lived on the good things of this world; Indians of influence are generally extravagant and get in debt to the traders and of course the trader will make an effort to collect his money and his only resort is to make the nation pay those debts which are contracted by individuals. This is very unfair to those who are not indebted to the trader taking their money to pay the debts of the extravagant chiefs who prefer to do business for their nation on the most honourable terms and at the same time will take half or the whole of the annuity every year and appropriate it to their own use. This rascally practice prevails with the savage as well as the whites who are in office and have the power to play the game. J. G. H."</P>
047.sgm:<P>"John Perry the principal chief of the Shawnee nation died Nov. 16th 1845 he was quite an old man and was disposed to doo his nation justice but unfortunately he was under the influence of men who had not the good of their tribe at heart, but would sacrifice the interest of their people to accomplish measures suited to their own interests. he was a friend to the whites and treated them well when ever they called at his house. I once staid all night with the old chief he gave me the best he had for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>"A treaty was concluded on the 14th (or 16th) January (46) with the Kansas Indians by Maj. Harvy Supr-intendent of Indian affairs at St. Louis and Maj. Cummins their agent, they bought about two million of acres for ten cents and one mill per acre, they receive ten thousand dollars annually from Government this being the interest on the amt of their proceeds of their land, one thousand dollars to be appropriated for schooling purposes, one thousand dollars for agricultural purposes, eight thousand dollars to be divided amongst the Indians.  this is far the best treaty the Kansas Indians ever made, they were located at Council Grove in 1847.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Henry Clay one of the Shawnee chiefs died on 4th April 1846 at his residence on Cedar Creek he was an educated man and an Indian of fine talents, and could have been one of the foremost men of his tribe if he could have had moral honesty, but unfortunately he was destitute of that good quality, and therefore he was put down several times by the other chiefs and denounced as a chief, but having superior talents to most of chiefs he would manage to rise and take his seat in the councils as chiefs, and through fear they were compeld to recognise him as a chief until his death      (two lines here have been deleted) April 5th 1846     J. G. H.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Blackboddy or Cottawahcothi one of the Shawnee chiefs or councilors died on Wednesday morning tho 8th April 1846 he was one of the principle medicine men of the nation, he was disposed to doo right and paid his debts which is considered one of the best trats in the Indian carracter he was very much adicted to disapation which no doubt was one cause of his death as he was a young and stout man.     J. G. H.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"The Miami Indians moved to their land on the Osage river in November 1847, the change of climate and the change of living produced disease amongst them, which swept the poor creatures off by dozens, they are the remnant of a once large and warlike people, they now only number about 500 souls. March 18th, 1847</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Part of the six nations from New York emigrated to their lands on the Neosho in July 1849, they also fell a pray to disease and died off by great numbers, becoming discouraged they began to scatter, some returned to New York and others remained on their land while some went to their neighbor tribes and began <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>"The Wyandot Indians emigrated to the west in      1843 and not being pleased with the land ceded to them by government, they bot land of the Delaware Indians on the Missouri River immediately above the mouth of the Kanzas river, which is a very rich and beautiful tract of land, they died by hundreds near one half of the tribe died during the first two years. March 18th, 1847"</P>
047.sgm:<P>"The Potowatimee Indians concluded a treaty with the U. S. in 1847 in which treaty they sell their land laying on the Missouri river at Council bluffs and their land on the Osage river, and settle on the Kansas river on the land purchased by the U. S. from the Kansas Indians.</P>
047.sgm:<P>And now - another formula for whitewash, jotted down hastily with pencil:</P>
047.sgm:<P>"An excellent white wash. Take 16# of Paris-white, add 1/2 # of white transparent glue.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Cover the glue over with cold water at night - in the morning is carfully heated until dissolved. Stir in the Paris-white with hot water to give it the proper consistency for applying to the wall, the dissolved glue is then added and thoroughly mixed,--then apply in the ordinary way. A very dark wall requires 2 coats. It is nearly equal in brilliancy to zinc white."</P>
047.sgm:<P>On the next page is a notation of a discovery concerning the Bible, which we know he loved:</P>
047.sgm:<P>"The 19th chapter 2d Book of Kings, and 37th Chapter of Isaiah, are precisely alike, the book of Kings was written 590 years B. C. that of Isaiah 698 years B. C. an interval of 108 years."</P>
047.sgm:<P>This was immediately followed by a practical rule and accurate sketch:</P>
047.sgm:<P>"To measure land multiply the length by the breadth and divide by 4830 which will give the number of acres, 69 1/2 yds square make one acre." Beside the sketch is written: "A range line divides the townships. each township has 36 sections and 640 acres is a section. 6 miles square is a township 1 mile square is a section.</P>
047.sgm:<P>Six pages of recipes, formulas and home prescriptions:</P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">CURE HORSES OF BOTTS</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"To make the bot let go its hold, give the horse a quart of molasses, with a quart of sweet milk--in thirty minutes you will find the horse at ease: then pulverize one eighth of a pound of alum, dissolve it in a quart of warm water, and drench your horse--after which, in two hours or less, give the horse one pound of salts, and you will find the bots in his dung, this is a certin cure;</P>
047.sgm:<P>The molasses and sweet milk cause the bot to let go and prey upon the sweetning--the alum contracts him, and the salts pass him off.     Nov. 21th 1847"</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">TO CORN BEEF</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Make 6 gallons of pickle strong enough to bear an egg. Three quarters of a pound of saltpetre dissolved in cold water before it is put in the pickle -- 2 tablespoons full of caenne pepper -- 1 table spoon full of pearlash (?) -- 2 qts molasses -- lay the beef in cold water for 1 night -- and then let it hang up two days before putting on the pickle. Hams cured in the same way except that they must be well rubbed with fine salt and molasses before being put in the pickle. let them remain in pickle six weeks before smoking -- if for immediate use the pickle should be warm."     Dec. 30th 1847</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">CURE FOR SNAKE BITES</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Paint the bitten part over the whole swelling with three or four coats of the tincture of iodine twice a day, renewing the application when the swelling extends, which it often does at the first application, if made while the wound is fresh. May 15th 1849 Dr. Whitmine"</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">TO DESTROY CATERPILLARS</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Take a half inch auger and bore as nearly as possible into the heart of the tree, fill the hole with sulpher, plug it with a branch out from the same tree. Make it air tight, and in forty eight hours the result is seen. Bas Cultivaler. May 15th 1849"</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">STRETCHES IN SHEEP</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"One gill of new rum, sweetened with molasses, and administered as a drench.</P>
047.sgm:<P>It causes a relaxation of the system, and has cured every case I have tried. Bas Cultivaler."</P>
047.sgm:<P>"To four ounces of fresh lime water add a drachm of Peruvian barks: wash the teeth with this water before breakfast and after supper; it will effectually destroy the tartar, and remove the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>Take of good soft water one quart; juice of lemon two ounces; burnt allum, six grains; common salt six grains, mix, boil them a minute in a cup, then strain and bottle for use."</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">CURE FOR CHOLERA</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"All premonitory symptoms, such as pain, a sense of fullness, unnatural movements, slight diarrhoea etc have uniformly yielded at once to a single dose of three or four grains of sulpher.</P>
047.sgm:<P>In cases when either cramp, diarrhoea or vomiting have been present, and in fact when all those symptoms, the use of sulpher, the above named dose every three or four hours has had the effect to ameliorate the condition of the patient at once, and when used in a few hours, disipate entirely choline symptoms. June 17th 1849"</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">CURE FOR CHOLERA</HI>
047.sgm:<P>1/4 oz pulverised Gum Guaiacum (?) 1/4<HSEP>"  <HSEP>"<HSEP>cloves 1/4<HSEP>"  <HSEP>"<HSEP>cinnamon 1 pt brandy   (Mix and take dose, from tea to tablespoonful, each half hour, till arrested."</P>
047.sgm:<P>These two preceding formulas, dated 1849; have historical significance, as it is noted on the 1950 Centennial map of Kansas City that in "1849 cholera takes third of population in this area."</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">FOR FLUX</HI>
047.sgm:<P>1 table spoonful castor oil 1 <HSEP>"    <HSEP>"     mutton suet 1 <HSEP>"    <HSEP>"     Godfreys cordial Loaf sugar the size of a partridge egg, one half pint new sweet milk, warm together untill thoroughly mixed and drink at one time.</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">SOME PERSONAL MEMOS</HI>
047.sgm:<P>(This one indicates that a dollar was worth a dollar -- no inflation there!)</P>
047.sgm:<P>"James Boone commenced work 1st day of April for one year, at one hundred per year, quit in one month and went to Oregon with his father."</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Moved in our own home 21st Sept 1847 after a great deal of trouble and vexation, as it is almost impossible to get a man to be depended upon to do you good work. Tho best plan when you want a house built is to let it out on contract and have nothing to do with the building untill it is finished and the keys delivered to you."</P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">SOME INTERESTING ACCOUNTS</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Leo Twyman      Dr. 1845 March 24     To 1 sorrel horse     50.00 Apl 5<HSEP> Cr by 1 sorrel horse  <HI REND="underscore">45.00</HI>
047.sgm: Balance due<HSEP>  5.00 July 25      To 1 basket Potatoes Nov 1845<HSEP>By settlement in full</P>
047.sgm:<P>Hamilton</P>
047.sgm:<P>"J. O. Boggs      Dr. 1846 Febry 15   To 1 bushel potatoes      .38 "   28  <HSEP>" 1/2<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">.19</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Robert Johnson's Estate</P>
047.sgm:<P>1847 Febry     To 2 doz Glass     75<HSEP>  1.50 " 1 1/2 putty 25 5# nails 50    .75 " casing &amp; fixing windows and doors<HSEP>   <HI REND="underscore"> 3.00</HI>
047.sgm: " 1 pr butts &amp; screws<HSEP>  .37 1/2 " fixing-smoke-house- kitchen<HSEP> 3.00 (over)<HSEP> 8.62 1/2 "To amount brot over<HSEP>    8.62 1/2 (crossed out)</P>
047.sgm:<P>"1847 Thomas Bernard     Dr. Oct 15   to cash of John Hamilton<HSEP>  115.43 1848 Feby 1   Cr by cash<HSEP>  <HI REND="underscore">115.43</HI>
047.sgm:<P>1848 Jun 17   Cash of Est. J. Hamilton<HSEP>  115.43 " <HSEP>" <HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>31.00 Sept 27 <HSEP>" <HSEP>" <HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP> <HI REND="underscore">192.33</HI>
047.sgm: 338.76 By cash<HSEP>338.76</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Planted some potatoes 29th March"</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">"'Worms' on the face"</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Bathe the spots several times a day with luke warm water and a sponge, rubbing the sponge over a piece of yellow soap. There is a healing power in soap distinct from its cleansing properties."</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">"CURE FOR SICK HORSES (Cholic)</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Take 1/2 pt whisky, 1/2 pt vinegar or water (?) red pepper, soap and boil together and give warm; a little chalk may be added. A certain cure. March 5, 1851"</P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">"TO CURE A FELON"</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Take one tablespoonful of red lead, and one tablespoonful of castile soap. Mix with as much (?) as will make it soft enough to spread like salve, and apply it on the first appearance of the felon and it will cure it in ten or 12 hours. Westport Dec. 8 1857 (or 51)"</P>
047.sgm:<P>"To regulate the liver bowels &amp; give an appetite"</P>
047.sgm:<P>To 1 pint good spirits add 1 oz sassaparilla 1/2 oz colombo 1/2<HSEP>" Gentian 2 drams Aloes 2 <HSEP>" Rheubard 1 nutmeg</P>
047.sgm:<P>Let stand 3 or 4 days and then take a table spoonfull before eating."</P>
047.sgm:<P>"To measure corn in the ear, multiply the length by the breadth; that by the height in feet; that product by 4 &amp; divide the amt by 10 &amp; you have the no. bushels in shelled corn.</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">"Cure for Nursing Sore Mouth</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Use tincture myrh as a wash for the mouth."</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">"Ague and Fever"</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"20 grain calomel 20<HSEP>quinine 4 blk pepper, the oil black pepper is better. Sufficient to mix, make into pills and take one after the chill goes off, and in 3 hours take one more, three hours take one more, the next day take as above.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"THE FAMOUS HUMBOLD RECEIPT FOR CURING HAMS"</P>
047.sgm:<P>Seven pounds coarse salt, 5# brown sugar; 2 oz pearl ash &amp; 4 gallons of water. Boil all together &amp; scum when cold. Put it on the meat. Hams remain in eight weeks, beef three weeks. The above is for 100 lbs.</P>
047.sgm:<P>Also - when hams are taken up to hang roll the ham in air slacked lime, then hang -- in the spring when the weather thaws the ham, roll again in the lime &amp; hang again.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"TAMING HORSES"</P>
047.sgm:<P>Oil of cummin, rub on hand &amp; horse will follow you. Castor, grated fine Oil of Rhodium Keep in seperate bottles, tight.</P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>"The prepared glue so much talked of is made by dissolving common glue in warm water, and then adding strong vinegar to keep it. Dissolve 1# of best glue in 1 1/2, pints of water, and add 1 pint of vinegar; it is ready for use."</P>
047.sgm:<P>CURE FOR BAD BREAKING OUT</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Crude Salmomac 2 drachms Corros. subliment 1 <HSEP>" Water 1 1/2 pts &amp; wash the sores, which is certain cure</P>
047.sgm:<P>CURE FOR SCRATCHES, HORSES</P>
047.sgm:<P>"1 oz. pulv. verdigras mixed with honey or mollasses."</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Sulpher &amp; salt will rid stock of lice.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"To measure corn incrib or wagon, level it &amp; multiply length, breadth &amp; hight by 12, then multiply each together which reduce to cubic inches, then divide by 2150-2/5 which gives the no. bushels in the ear or if the load be shelled will produce the no. bus. in shelled corn. 2150-2/5 in. make a bushel, or 18 1/2 in. in diameter &amp; 8 in. deep make a bushel."</P>
047.sgm:<P>CURE RHEUMATISM</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Bark from the roots prickley ash put in whiskey &amp; made as strong as it can be used."</P>
047.sgm:<P>74# corn in the shuck in bus. 7O# <HSEP>"  shucked in bushel.</P>
047.sgm:<P>TO STOP BLOOD</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Take the fine dust of tea or the scrapings of the inside of tanned leather and bind it close upon the wound, the blood will soon cease to flow."</P>
047.sgm:<P>CURE FOR FELON</P>
047.sgm:<P>"A poultice of onions, applied morning, noon &amp; night three or four days will cure a felon, no matter how bad the case. Splitting the finger will be unnecessary if this poultice be used."</P>
047.sgm:<P>(The little book was evidently pigeon-holed and brought out at a later date over a period of years. The following entry shows improvements made to a home in 1869--a few months before his passing.)</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Commencing at north side of the garden - Fruit trees set out Apl 6, 1869 - 1st Row - 3 sweet (?) 3 early harvest, 2 maden blush No. 8 2d  Row - 3 maden blush, 3 early white, 2 fall Queen     8 3   Row - 3 fall Queen, 2 fall Pippin, 2 large Romanites, 1 Mo. Superior<HSEP> 8 4   Row - 5 Rambo, 3 Fall Queen<HSEP>   8 5  <HSEP>"    8 Mo. Superior<HSEP>   8 6  <HSEP>"    5 Newtown Pippin, 2 Paris Red, 1 Mo. Superior  8 7  <HSEP>"    3 Paris Red, 5 N.Y. Pippin<HSEP>8</P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>(The following memo evidently refers to the home in which his family lived during his first trip to California.)</P>
047.sgm:<P>"1854 DWELLING HOUSE 6 acres land<HSEP>   $1100.00 Buildings &amp; materials<HSEP>  4300.00 3 acres land<HSEP>450.00 Fencing, etc.<HSEP>    <HI REND="underscore">550.00</HI>
047.sgm: $6400.00 May 1862 Sold to Jas. Kitchen   <HI REND="underscore">2000.00</HI>
047.sgm: Loss<HSEP>    $4400.00"</P>
047.sgm:<P>(And it also tells another story -- he sold at a loss before he and his family went overland to California in 1862)</P>
047.sgm:<P>"It was called an 'Elegant' House in Westport's young days. "Adjoining a lumber yard at 557 Westport Avenue stands a house that was spoken of as 'elegant" in the bygone days when plainsmen and traders flourished. Now it has fallen into such a state of decay that soon it will have become a memory.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"The house was built in 1852 by James Hamilton, a leading merchant and trader of his day. Like the majority of the old Westport houses, it is constructed of walnut logs covered with weather boarding. The house was sold in 1856 to Dr. J. W. Parker whose dignified dress and deportment were much commented upon in those days. Doctor Parker was a Southern sympathizer, and when the Federals captured Westport he was forced to leave the state. ...Photographs of the old house will be on sale at the Westport carnival, August 31 to September 8."</P>
047.sgm:<P>(The preceding article was copied from a Kansas City newspaper, date unknown. Although the dates do not coincide it is evidently the home referred to in memo on page 8 of this transcription. It is augmented by the following memos in pencil, some too dim to read accurately:)</P>
047.sgm:<P>"1847     (?) of Buildings Logs Lumber Rails<HSEP>   (?)  431.97 Carpenter bill<HSEP>    130.55 Stone (?) &amp; (?)<HSEP>    <HI REND="underscore">57.97</HI>
047.sgm: 620.   (?) Hawling rock<HSEP> 5.50 (?)<HSEP> 100.00 1850 ?     Improvements on house<HSEP>484.44 ?<HSEP>    32.00 (?) Carriage house<HSEP>60.00 Elkins bill (door etc<HSEP> <HI REND="underscore">8.00</HI>
047.sgm: $1310.44 Lumber<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">100.00</HI>
047.sgm: ?     ? for fence 10.75<HSEP>$1410.00</P>
047.sgm:<P>Dec. 1853 Sold to Dr. Parker     1500.00 </P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>(In an article in the Kansas City Star, Sunday, December 26, 1937, entitled "An Old Map Throws New Light on the Westport of 1855" is the following, which no doubt refers to the house covered by the memo at the top of page 12 of this transcription:)</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Another great house in 1855 was that of James Hamilton. It stood where the Kansas City Orphan Boys home is today, at the corner of Westport road and Belleview avenue."</P>
047.sgm:<P>(From the same article are these interesting highlights upon the Westport of that era:</P>
047.sgm:<P>"The Halleran map settled once and for all the rumor that avaricious early citizens had filched part of Westport road. They hadn't. It always has been sixty feet wide west of Mill street, as it is today. In 1855 it was not known as Westport road, nor as Westport avenue, the name it bore for many years. It was called Main Street.</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">On Edge of Civilization</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"And a great main street it was. There east met West and civilization rubbed elbows with primitive Indians and plainsmen only a trifle less primitive. There well-groomed gentlemen from the East looked with amazement on the sons of the West in wide-brimmed hats, or coonskin caps, in garments of homespun cloth or of buckskin. It was the jumping-off place for tho far West, for California, New Mexico and Arizona. It sold a bewildering variety of strange and fascinating wares--saddles, bridles, revolvers, rifles, wagons, salt port, buffalo skins, Spanish silver and gold bars brought from the Southwest.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Men came to Westport on their way to make their fortunes, with hope surging high and grandiose, rosy dreams of gold and a new world. Some of them came back to Westport with such fortunes jingling in their pockets, with gold dust in their luggage and perhaps with a letter of credit from some far-off California bank. All spent freely, those who hoped to make their fortunes, and those who already had done so.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"...Fine houses grew in Westport as the result of that Santa Fe trade. Roomy old brick or frame houses they were, with low gables and wide yards around them, and gardens and living quarters for the slaves. Col. A. G. Boone lived in such a house on what is now Pennsylvania avenue, south of Thirty-ninth street terrace. Just north of him was William Bernard's house. The Bernard house was razed only recently....</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Colonel Boone ran a store in Westport that dealt in everything from groceries to negro slaves....William Bernard was in the Santa Fe trade himself...."</P>
047.sgm:<P>(Small wonder that James G. Hamilton--serving these riders of the fabulous Santa Fe Trail-who was so vitally interested in so many things--heard and twice answered the call of the West ! The letters written to "My dear Cornelia" in 1857-58 tell the story <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>The Civil War was raging. James G. Hamilton--never really believing in slavery--had given his slaves permission to claim their freedom, which they finally did. How vividly I recall the story as told by Grandma when I was a little girl! One morning Grandma wakened to find the household very quiet--no stirring about for the morning chores. Upon investigation she found that all the servants had left, and before their departure had said by their last service, "Thank you for this home we have enjoyed." The fires were all laid in the stoves and hearths, the table was set for breakfast, all the preliminary preparations possible for the morning meal and activities had been made, and my Mother's nurse had taken one of her two little night-caps which were kept hanging on the bed-post when not in use. The tiny tot whose nurse took this keep-sake was Ella Detter Hamilton (born in 1859).</P>
047.sgm:<P>Clippings in my possession vary--one gives 1862 and another 1863--as the year in which James and Cornelia Hamilton and their eight children crossed the plains to California, where they resided in San Jose for two years. There the late Seth Hays Hamilton, one of the founders of the town of Stillwater, Oklahoma was born. Fearn Hamilton Cross, his daughter and only child, is the present owner of those little books.</P>
047.sgm:<P>I often wonder if, somewhere in a half-forgotten trunk there might someday be found a diary of this 1863-65 journey. Until then, this account given me by Uncle John Hamilton, as we sat on his porch in the south wing of the old Francisco Plaza in La Veta, Colorado in the summer of 1930, must suffice. I wrote it down just as he told it, and in that way will share it:</P>
047.sgm:<P>(As told by John Baskin Hamilton) "James G Hamilton, his wife, Cornelia Bernard Hamilton and their children--William Bernard, James G., Jr., Ann Reid, John Baskin (born July 23, 1851), Cornelia Catherine, Bernard Finley, Ella Detter, and Fanny Buckner, -- went by train, ambulance for the family, freight wagons, men on horseback. William was only son who drove a wagon. Left Calloway Co., April 3, 1863. Took what is known as tho Overland Route. Crossed the Missouri River at Nebraska City. Next stop was at Julesburg, Colo. (near Greeley) a stage station. The next stop was Ft. Bridger. Next stop was Salt Lake City. Stayed there a week or ten days in camp in town. Very beautiful, wide streets, parks, trees. The children of Brigham Young entertained the children royally, as did Brigham Young and his many wives entertain the elders. They started with 150 mules. Uncle John rode the bell mare. The men who followed the cattle for protection against Indians were known as the 'caviard.' On the Platte between Greeley and Fort Bridger they kept the advance guard. Reported a band of Indian warriors ahead. They corraled the stock. In sign language he talked to the Indians. (Cheyennes and Arapahoes) who claimed they were friendly and told him to go on so they could get into the loose stock. Tho chief came down and had a pow-wow. The chief said they were after the Paiutes. Chief asked Grandpa for some tobacco and insisted on the train <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>And now--let's turn to the little green leather book, of the type shown in museums as "wagon train books"--with a flap and tie, and a pocket in the back.</P>
047.sgm:<P>On the reverse of the front cover and the fly leaf there are numerous pencilled notes, which have no particular sequence, although each one suggests a story of some sort. Apparently these were jotted down hurriedly as information concerning places and people came to him. One of them reads:</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Oatman family murdered on the night of the 19th March 1851. Mr. and Mrs. Oatman &amp; 7 children was the no. of family. 2 girls taken captive by Apaches. Mary Ann (?) &amp; Olive brought to (?) by Indians after 5 years captivity in (?)" (written in pencil, very small and dim)</P>
047.sgm:<P>(I checked on the accuracy of this notation by writing to the Arizona Historical Society, Tucson, whose Historical Secretary Eleanor B. Sloan, gave me the following information:)</P>
047.sgm:<P>"As to the Oatmans: This was a family, who after the breaking up of their original party in Santa Fe and many subsequent troubles, attempted to make the rest of the journey alone. On March 28, 1851 Royce Oatman and his family were attacked by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>"Royal B. Stratton wrote an account of the Oatmans in 1858, entitled 'Captivity of the Oatman Girls'....This book was reprinted by the Grabhorn Press, San Francisco in 1935, under the name, Life Among The Indians or the Captivity of the Oatman Girls....It is a good account."</P>
047.sgm:<P>(Various jottings--all in pencil): Bank of America; American Exchange Bank, N.Y. Mr. Span Sacramento City; Moses G. Noble, Gilroy; R. P. Rutledge Santa Clara; W. T. Rutlege; Albuquerque; Chihuahua; From Ukipi (?) to Los Angeles - 74 miles<HSEP> 74 LosAngeles to San Buenaventura<HSEP> 80 San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara<HSEP>   30 Santa Barbara to San Luis Obispo<HSEP>   116 San Luis Obispo to Sam Juan (?)<HSEP>    131 San Juan to San Francisco<HSEP>    <HI REND="underscore">92</HI>
047.sgm: 523 miles From Westport to Ukipi<HSEP><HSEP><HI REND="underscore">1750</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"Bray &amp; Brother" "San Francisco 101 Front St. Samuel Scott Between San Joaquin &amp; (?) Tulara County San Juan or Whan 40 miles south east of San Jose Valley up the San Jose; Gil Roy 10 miles from San Juan.; Maj. James Thompson, Barker Valley; W. H. Patton assessor Santa Clara County; J. G. Tucker, 125 Montgomery St. (?); Alamo Contra Costa County."</P>
047.sgm:<P>(Two pages of this book are written in ink--the remainder consists mostly of a diary of the latter part of the 1857-58 trip across the plains. The first ink-inscribed page is -</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">FORM OF A WILL</HI>
047.sgm:<P>"In the name of God, Amen: I     of the county of      and state of<HSEP>hereby make this my last will and testament, hereby revoking all former wills and testaments made by me. Item: I desire first that all just debts and demands that exist against me shall be paid in full. Item: I bequeathe to my beloved wife C (?) that portion of my (describe the property) I owe D one hundred dollars which I wish paid out of      portion of this estate bequeathed.</P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>"I nominate and appoint A as my executer to this my last will and testament of the County of     and State of      and request that they will as early as practicable have all the portions of this my will carried into effect.--In witness the date and place signed in presents of   <HSEP>"</P>
047.sgm:<P>(The other ink-written page was probably gleaned during one of his business trips to Philadelphia. As I recall--he made buying trips to that city occasionally, and remember that Grandma told me that on one of the so trips he bought her a sewing machine--which was a very new article for the household, and was probably one of the first brought to Westport.)</P>
047.sgm:<P>GIRARD COLLEGE FOR ORPHANS</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Founded A. D. 1833 34 pillows 55 feet high 18 &amp; 27 foot in circumference. 12 rooms 50 feet square 3 storys high. Solid marble roof. 10 pillows on each side 8 pillows on each end 20 feet. 11 stops up to first floor 10 or 12 inches thick. A large building on each side of the college for school children. Girard's statue on the first floor in full size, the buildings are all of solid marble.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"A stone fence 12 feet high enclosing several acres around the College to keep strangers from intruding and injuring the buildings." Philad/July 12th 1847 J.G.H."</P>
047.sgm:<P>(Two pages of a petty cash account are revealing!)--</P>
047.sgm:<P>1858 Cash 80$ Jany 7  Bill at Franklin House<HSEP> $12.75 "     Hack to boat<HSEP><HSEP> 1.00 "     Passage on Surprise<HSEP>45.00 " 11  Hack to Am. Exchange<HSEP>1.00 " 12  Coat 14$ Hat 5$<HSEP>  19.00 " 13  Barber 1.00 Bar 25<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">1.25</HI>
047.sgm: $ 80.00 1858 Jany 14 By cash of S. G. House (?)<HSEP>  $1477.50</P>
047.sgm:<P>Jany 14 To passage to Mouth Bay (?)<HSEP>3.25 "  15 Telegraph 1.75 Bar 25<HSEP>    2.00 "  16 Papers 50 Porter 62<HSEP> 1.12 " <HSEP>" Bill at American Exc.<HSEP>   12.50 " <HSEP>" Passage on Surprise<HSEP>35.00 "  19  <HSEP>"    to Los Angeles<HSEP>   5.00 "  20 Bill Bell Union (Los Angeles)<HSEP>   3.50 " <HSEP>" Passage to San Bernardino<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">8.00</HI>
047.sgm: Forward<HSEP>  $ 70.37 1858  Amt brot forward<HSEP>   70.37 Jany 21 To bill at Californian<HSEP>   1.50 "  22 " <HSEP>" <HSEP>"  San Bernardino<HSEP>4.50 " <HSEP>" "  postage for (?)<HSEP> .25 " <HSEP>"  Paid sundry persons at camp<HSEP> <HI REND="underscore">1400.88</HI>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">1958</HI>
047.sgm: Apl 22   To Farriage at Benicia<HSEP>   .50 "      Passage to San Francisco<HSEP>3.00 "      Porter .50 Hack .50 ? 25<HSEP>1.25 " 23   2# apples 1.00 soda .25<HSEP> 2.25 " 24   Bar 25 Boots 50 Porter 50<HSEP> 1.25 "      Passage on New World 3$ ferriage 50<HSEP>   3.50 " 25   Paid keeping mules<HSEP> 6.00 "      Pistol flask<HSEP><HSEP>1.00</P>
047.sgm:<P>As the following diary begins in January, 1858 - in California - we wonder where he kept the record of the first part of the journey, which began in August, 1857 - according to the letters in "My dear Cornelia."</P>
047.sgm:<P>Since compiling "My dear Cornelia" in 1951 the follow enlightening information has come to me from the Arizona Pioneer Historical Society in Tucson, Arizona, with whom a copy of the letters is filed. The Secretary, Eleanor B. Sloan, has written:</P>
047.sgm:<P>"I have just finished reading the letters and was very much interested as they describe one of the early successful cattle drives. He gave the hopes and fears of such a drive and the actual results in a way to make excellent historical data."</P>
047.sgm:<P>"We have other accounts of the fight of the Pima and Maricopa with the Apache and Yuma Indians so it was interesting to have him go through just a month later. The Marakopa Village mentioned was on the Gila, and, as he says, was an extension of the Pima Villages. Phoenix is north east of the Maricopa villages and almost directly north of the Pima villages. That they went by the Maricopa villages meant they followed a loup of the Gila to the north instead of the cut off used by the stages from the Pima villages to the southern end of the loup. You see all of the description is most interesting to us."</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Thanks very much for sending us this manuscript. It is a very welcome addition to our letters of overland trips through Arizona."</P>
047.sgm:<P>(This refers to Pages 8, 9, and 10 of "My dear Cornelia." It had been my thought that the Marakopa village might have been the forerunner of Phoenix.) (For the most part the entries in the diary following are supplementary to the "My dear Cornelia" letters, by which locations have been checked.)</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">1858</HI>
047.sgm: 56 50 <HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">13</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">14</HI>
047.sgm:. 42 degrees. Sun is bright this morning. Cool all day. Got what funds I wanted of S. S. Hensley. Took a ride to the Fort at the mouth of the Bay. Passed fine gardens, vegetables <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:green and look beautiful. Passed several dairies. The roads muddy &amp; bad and quite hilly. The mail steamer Golden Age arrived and such a rush to the Post office. Formed lines and each one march up in regular order. Tried to get to the letter box. Such a crowd. Concluded to wait untill morning. 42 degrees 60 48 <HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">15</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">16</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">17</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">18</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">19</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">20</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">21</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">22</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">23</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">24</HI>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">25</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">26</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">27</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">28</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">29</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">30</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Jany</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">31</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">1</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">2</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">3</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">4</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">5</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">6</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">7</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">8</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">9</HI>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">10</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">11</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">12</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">13</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">14</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">15</HI>
047.sgm:<P>(700)</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">16</HI>
047.sgm:. 44. 62. 50. Started at 12 &amp; camped at a creek at 3. 6 miles. Rough &amp; hilly wash. Saw whale. Cloudy &amp; pleasant. Rain at night.  <HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">17</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">18</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">19</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">20</HI>
047.sgm:. 20. 60. 74. Started at 7 1/2 &amp; encamped at mouth of Gavayotah Canon at 2 1/2. 10 miles. Passed over a miserable bad road. Hills &amp; deep ravines every half mile &amp; almost impassable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">21</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">22</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">23</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">24</HI>
047.sgm:. 40. 84. 60. Started at 7 &amp; encamped at 3 at Lagoonah. Bad water &amp; but little grass. Have had no water for 12 miles. Passed over a poor sandy country today, took right hand road through hill 1/2 mile above a ranch. Santeesmo was written in above then crossed out.) Clear &amp; pleasant. H killed crane. 16 miles. Cooked with ? chips. This is Walupa Valley - about 15 miles wide and a sand plain.  <HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">25</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">26</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">27</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Feby</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">29</HI>
047.sgm:. 52. 62. 52. Started at 7 &amp; encamped at 1. 1 mile above San Luis Obispo in a canon. Water &amp; grass scant. Passed San Luis Obispo at 10. This is an old Jesuit Mission. Has several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>(697)</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">March</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">1</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">March</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">2</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">3</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">4</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">5</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">6</HI>
047.sgm:. 20. 80. 62. Started at 7 &amp; encamped at on Masser mento creek at 11. This is the most beautiful creek that I have seen in California, is some 40 foot wide and 2 foot deep, tho dries up after the rains. The water clear &amp; good. Sandy bottom with banks lined with willow &amp; cotton-wood. Nice valley on each side at tho crossings tho too sandy for cultivation. The grass excellent. A house below the crossing belonging to Americans. Passed the San Migel Mission; is the largest mission I have seen. Situated in a valley on the Rio Salinas. We took the left hand road <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">7</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">8</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">9</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">March</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">10</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">March</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">11</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">March</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">12</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">March</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">13</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">14.</HI>
047.sgm:<P>(693)</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">15</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">16</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">March</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">17</HI>
047.sgm:. 30. 60. 40. Drove 4 miles &amp; encamped on the bank of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">18</HI>
047.sgm:. 28. 62. 48. Remained encamped all day. Hatcher &amp; 7 men went back and looked for the cow. Did not find her. She is no doubt hid by the natives. I walked around &amp; found 2 lost calves. High wind, tho more pleasant than for several days. (690) <HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">19</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">20</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">21</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">22</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">23</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">24</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">25</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">26</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">27</HI>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">28</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">March</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">29</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">30</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Mar</HI>
047.sgm:.  <HI REND="underscore">31</HI>
047.sgm:<P>(Here he digresses with random notes)-</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Lower California" "The country is poor &amp; with few exceptions but little grass is grown. The valleys of San Bernardino, Montic (?) &amp; Los Angeles are rich &amp; productive valleys &amp; grain &amp; fruit is grown to a considerable extent; from Los Angeles to San Juan the valleys are dry &amp; destitute of water so much so that a field of grain is but seldom seen. The valleys on the Rio Salinas are large but too dry to cultivate.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"This portion of California is owned &amp; settled principally by the native Californians. Their ranches consist of an adoba house, &amp; a correll. The men seem to spend their time on horseback, charging around as if they were on business of the greatest importance. They are lazy &amp; indolent, do not so much as raise vegetables or fruit but lounge around half starved, living on poor beef.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"No school or churches are to be seen except at Santa Barbara &amp; a Catholic church at San Louis Obispo. (Marauding bands) Stealing &amp; robbing &amp; murder is an every day occurrence. It is said that a band of robbers range from San Louis Obispo to San Juan, but from my experience on the road, the settlers are more to be dreaded than the roving banditti. Many years ago a large portion of the valleys have been cultivated which are now not cultivated owing to the scarcity of water for irrigation. It seems that the heavens have been shut up against this people &amp; country &amp; the rain withheld, the earth parched &amp; the streams dried up--caused no doubt from the wickedness of the people. 60,000 head of cattle have starved in 2 years.</P>
047.sgm:<P>"The changes are as great &amp; frequent as Missouri; the high winds being very disagreeable. Rain, hail &amp; snow in the same hour &amp; in a few hours the hot sun is oppressive. This is Lower <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">April</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">1</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">2</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">3</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">4</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">5</HI>
047.sgm:<P>(140 lbs)</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">6</HI>
047.sgm:. Called to see J. H. Bullard and advertised our cattle in Sacramento Union. Read a letter from Cornelia. After walking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">7</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">8</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">9</HI>
047.sgm:<P>Sunday</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">11</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">12</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">13</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">14</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">15</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">16</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">17</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">18</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">19</HI>
047.sgm:. A drive of 3 1/2 miles brought us to San Jose. The roads in many places muddy &amp; bad. High winds &amp; dusty.  <HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">20</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">21</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">22</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">23</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">24</HI>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">25</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">26</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">27</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">28</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">29</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Apl</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">30</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">1st</HI>
047.sgm:<P>(Sunday)</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">2</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">3</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">4</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">5</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">6</HI>
047.sgm:. Started at 6 1/2. Passed over a broken and hilly country untill we reached Petaluma Valley, which is level; at this time an abundance of water, tho no timber. The valley is fenced up, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">7</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">8</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">9</HI>
047.sgm:.<HSEP>(Sunday)<LB>Started for Petaluma at sunrise and arrive at 3 oclk after a ride on a lazy mule, of 30 miles over the roughest &amp; highest hills in the country. I suffered during the afternoon &amp; night with sick headache. Stopped at the Washington Hotel. Retired to rest at 5.</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">10</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">11</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">12</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">13</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">14</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">15</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">16</HI>
047.sgm:. (Sunday 16th) Forenoon went to 1st Presbyterian Church &amp; heard Dr. Anderson preach from Luke 2:14, after which the Lord's supper was administered. Several persons joined by letter &amp; some by examination. The meeting was solemn &amp; interesting. The house was full &amp; I never saw people more attentive in any country. I could but wish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>In the evening I went to Calvary church (Dr. Scott's church) and heard Rev. Corwin preach, subject outward forms &amp; catholic schools, exorting parents not to have their children educated under Catholic influence. This is a fine church, large &amp; comodious with galleries &amp; organ, large and attentive audience.  <HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">17</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">18</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">19</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">20</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">21</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">22</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">23</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">24</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">25</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">26</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">27</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">28</HI>
047.sgm:. Landed at Acapulca at 4 oclk in the morning. Acapulca is a small Mexican town on the bay, the bay is small tho deep &amp; safe for vessels. High &amp; rugged hills almost surround the bay &amp; town. The natives swim around the ship &amp; dive for dimes which are thrown into the bay. A half hour after starting a lady missed her son 12 years old &amp; supposed he had been lost, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">29</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday May 30th</HI>
047.sgm:<P>Morning warm, fine shower during the forenoon. A notice was posted near the pursers office saying that Dr. Hubard would preach in the Ladies Cabin - subject - I'll see your five &amp; go ten better. This Dr. Hubard is an Englishman, was an Episcopalian minister, tho from causes has ceased to officiate. Afternoon was warm &amp; sultry. At night the blind man preached from the last chapter of Revelations. After preaching a collection. 90 degrees.</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">May</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">31</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">1st</HI>
047.sgm:<P>Pleasant breeze all day. Rain at night. 90 degrees. Rather dangerous for ladies to travel this route alone, as all have to look to their own interests, and frequently ladies are subject to insult.</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">2</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">3</HI>
047.sgm:<P>Aspinwall on the Atlantic side is settled principally by Americans and is quite a place for hotels, as nearly every house is a hotel at this place. We had to wait from 4 oclk until 8 before we could get on board the Star of the West, and it being quite warm made it quite uncomfortable, &amp; the negros with their ice water, lemonade, liquor, cakes &amp; fruit begging the passengers to buy. At 9 oclk at night the boat put to sea, crowded with passengers &amp; the rooms being very small &amp; tight made it very warm sleeping, tho tired &amp; wet with swet, I lay me down to rest and slept part of the night.</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">4</HI>
047.sgm:. The sea being somewhat rough some of the passengers were sick this morning. The wind continues to blow all afternoon &amp; night, causing the high waves to roll and dash against the vessel with violence. At night as I was seated on the Guard, a heavy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">5</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">Sunday June 6th</HI>
047.sgm:<P>Wind continues to blow hard and very rough sea, a great many of the passengers sick. I have been sick all day--miserable fare &amp; filthy boat. Rooms small &amp; hot, not fit for a man to sleep in.</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">7</HI>
047.sgm:<P>Mr. H. W. Harris, 20 years old, died &amp; was buried today in the deep, deep ocean. Mr. Harris was from Kentucky and was very anxious to get to his friends before he died--but the ? destroyer consumption had too nearly accomplished its work before the young man started for home.</P>
047.sgm:<P>I was aroused early this morning by the crying of a lady -- I jumped from my berth and looked out, saw a lady with young infant in her arm, apparently in a dying condition &amp; the distressed mother calling for help &amp; pressing her babe to her breast with a kiss, saying don't leave me. The Dr. soon came &amp; administered to the child &amp; it still lives. I could not help shedding a tear to see the distressed mother clinging to her babe. Remembering my dear wife &amp; little ones far, far away, tho my trust is in Him who is able to take care of us, and support us under every trial and affliction.</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">8</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">9</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">10</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">11</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">12</HI>
047.sgm:<P>(Sunday)</P>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">13</HI>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">14</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">15</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">16</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">17</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">18</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">19</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">20</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">21</HI>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">June</HI>
047.sgm: <HI REND="underscore">22</HI>
047.sgm:<P>1863 - Earthquake about 10th Dec. - light<LB> 1864 - Earthquake Feb. 26 - heavy shock "<HSEP>"<HSEP>March 5th<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<LB> "<HSEP> "<HSEP>"  10 - moderate <LB>"<HSEP> "<HSEP> " 29 - 10 1/2 oclk p.m.<LB> "<HSEP>Severe"<HSEP>July<HSEP>10 1/4 oclk p.m. <LB>(Now--another financial memo)----<LB>1858 - Col. Robert Campbell, Dr.<LB>June 16 - To cash<HSEP>($12,900.00</P>
047.sgm:<P>"<HSEP>30   By checkin from N. H. Scroggs<HSEP>2729.83<LB>"<HSEP>4<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>"   J&amp; WRB &amp; Co.<HSEP>5900.00 <LB>July  2<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>Turner &amp; Thom<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">4270.17</HI>
047.sgm:<LB><HSEP>$ 12900.00</P>
047.sgm:<P>(A well-tabulated "Bulletin" of the trip on the John L. Stephens from San Francisco is given, also the trip from Aspinwall on "Star of the East.") ----</P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HI REND="underscore">BULLETIN</HI>
047.sgm:<P>1858<HSEP>TRIP ON JOHN L. STEPHENS FROM SAN FRANCISCO</P>
047.sgm:<P>May 20<HSEP>Latitude N<HSEP>Longitude W<HSEP>Miles<LB>"21<HSEP>34 North<HSEP>121<HSEP>West<HSEP>233<LB>"<HSEP>22<HSEP>30. 41. 118<HSEP>27<HSEP> 244<LB>"<HSEP> 23<HSEP>27. 44. 115<HSEP>23<HSEP> 239<LB>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>24. 34. 112<HSEP>08<HSEP> 262<LB>"<HSEP>25<HSEP>21. 49. 108<HSEP>55<HSEP> 242<LB>"<HSEP> 26<HSEP>19. 18. 105<HSEP>29<HSEP> 244<LB>"<HSEP>27<HSEP>17. 40. 102<HSEP>15<HSEP> 209<LB>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>16. 26.  99<HSEP>20<HSEP> 180<LB>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>14. 48.  95<HSEP>38<HSEP> 239<LB>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>12. 59.  92<HSEP>01<HSEP> 239<LB>"<HSEP>31<HSEP>11. 08.  88<HSEP>13<HSEP> 248<LB>June 1<HSEP> 9. 17.  85.<HSEP> 06<HSEP> 215<LB>"<HSEP>2<HSEP> 7. 10.  81.<HSEP> 44<HSEP> 240<LB>"<HSEP>3<HSEP>To Panama<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">200</HI>
047.sgm: 3234<LB>"<HSEP>"  Aspinwall<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">49</HI>
047.sgm:<LB><HSEP>3283</P>
047.sgm:<P>TRIP FROM ASPINWALL ON STAR OF THE WEST</P>
047.sgm:<P>June<HSEP>4<HSEP>11.<HSEP>4.<HSEP>31.<HSEP>18.<HSEP>360<HSEP> 166<LB>"<HSEP>5<HSEP>14. 18. 77.<HSEP>29<HSEP>   186<LB>"<HSEP>6<HSEP>17. 75.<HSEP>40<HSEP>   206<LB>"<HSEP>7      20. 25.  74.<HSEP> 05<HSEP>215<LB>"<HSEP>8<HSEP>24. 03.  74.      11<HSEP>234<LB>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>29. 23.  73.<HSEP>34<HSEP>   262<LB>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>32. 53.  73.<HSEP>32<HSEP>269<LB>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>37. 33.  73.<HSEP>48<HSEP>   282<LB>"<HSEP>12<HSEP>Arrived at New York<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">196</HI>
047.sgm:<LB>"<HSEP>13<HSEP>From N. Y. to Dunkirk<HSEP>  460<LB>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>Dunkirk to St. Louis<HSEP>700<LB>"<HSEP>17<HSEP>" St. Louis to T. Bernard's    150<LB>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>"<HSEP>. T. Bernard's to Westport<HSEP>   180</P>
047.sgm:<P>(Then follows some more financial memos)-----</P>
047.sgm:<P>Thomas G. Richards &amp; money rec'd by H &amp; H <HI REND="underscore">1858</HI>
047.sgm: Apl 15<HSEP>To 1 cow to Noble<HSEP>80.00<LB>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>6 cows &amp; 4 calves  $75<HSEP>450.00<LB>"<HSEP>30<HSEP>4<HSEP>"<HSEP>4 <HSEP>"<HSEP> 312.00<LB>"<HSEP>"<HSEP> 1<HSEP>"<HSEP>(not paid)<LB>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>28<HSEP>"<HSEP>&amp; 14 calves  $59<HSEP>   1652.00<LB>"<HSEP>"<HSEP> 5<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>(white)  $50<HSEP>300.00<LB>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>10<HSEP>"<HSEP>&amp; 5 calves   ?  ?<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">500.00</HI>
047.sgm:<LB><HSEP>$3294.00<LB>May 1<HSEP>18 cows &amp; 6 calves<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">900.00</HI>
047.sgm:<LB><HSEP>$4194.00<LB>2<HSEP>1<HSEP>"<HSEP>calf (Irishman)<HSEP> 62.50<LB>3<HSEP> 3<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>(Spaniard) 62.50<HSEP> 187.50<LB>5<HSEP>"<HSEP>1<HSEP>"<HSEP>(Irishman)<HSEP>312.50<LB> 4<HSEP> 2<HSEP>"<HSEP>at Benicia (not paid)<LB>6<HSEP>18<HSEP>"  &amp; 3 calves   $65<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">1170.00</HI>
047.sgm:<LB>102 cows<HSEP>$5926.50 </P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P><HSEP>5,926.50<LB>Cash to Bray &amp; Bro.<HSEP> <HI REND="underscore">10,000.00</HI>
047.sgm:<LB><HSEP>$15,926.50</P>
047.sgm:<P><HSEP>5,926.50<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">343.50</HI>
047.sgm:<LB>Total number<HSEP>5,583.00<LB><HI REND="underscore">180</HI>
047.sgm:<LB><HSEP>5,403.00<LB>May 8<HSEP>4 oxen     ? at camp<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">203.00</HI>
047.sgm:<LB><HSEP>5,200.00<LB>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>5 mules delivered at camp<LB>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>673 cows &amp; mules " Ranch<LB>"<HSEP>"   <HI REND="underscore">102</HI>
047.sgm: "<HSEP>sold<LB>584<LB>584 Cattle    $42.50<HSEP>$24,820.00<LB>"<HSEP>7<HSEP><HI REND="underscore"> 19</HI>
047.sgm: cows<HSEP>"<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">807.50</HI>
047.sgm:<LB>603 <HSEP>"<HSEP> $25,627.50</P>
047.sgm:<P>By cash<HSEP>$15,926.50 " 18 <HSEP>" <HSEP>"<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">9,701.00</HI>
047.sgm:<P>Total expenditures<HSEP>15,000.00</P>
047.sgm:<P>603 to Richards<HSEP>883 <HI REND="underscore"> 55</HI>
047.sgm: "  others<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">658</HI>
047.sgm:<LB> 658<HSEP>225 lost<LB>W. I. Dillon<LB>To 17 Plank 6/12</P>
047.sgm:<P>(On the next page his love of the Bible is revealed - he has copied Titus 2:11 to 14 verbatim; also Psalm 84:11; and parts of several verses which he failed to identify --</P>
047.sgm:<P>"The Sun of righteousness shall rise with healing in his wings." (Mal. 4:2)</P>
047.sgm:<P>"Who hath known the mind of the Lord, or who hath been his counsellor." (Rom. 11:34)</P>
047.sgm:<P>"O the depth of the riches both of the wisdom and knowledge of God." (Rom. 11:33)</P>
047.sgm:<P>2400 ft fencing 6 inches wide 675 "<HSEP> "<HSEP>8"<LB>150 posts<LB>125 ? 3x12 ft</P>
047.sgm:<P>I wrote to Cornelia as follows:  <HI REND="underscore">1858</HI>
047.sgm:<LB>Jany 16 from San Francisco, California<LB>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>"   San Bernardino  <HSEP>"<LB>Feby  6<HSEP>" Los Angeles<HSEP>"<LB>"<HSEP>16<HSEP>"   Santa Barbara   <HSEP>"<LB>Mar. 27<HSEP>"  San Juan<HSEP>"<LB>"<HSEP>29<HSEP>"   Gilroy<HSEP>"<LB>Apl.  2<HSEP>"  San Francisco   <HSEP>"<LB>"<HSEP>11<HSEP>"   Gilroy<LB>"<HSEP>15<HSEP>"   Gilroy<LB>"<HSEP>24<HSEP>"   San Francisco</P>
047.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>(1858)<LB>May<HSEP>Cash paid ferriage<HSEP>272.50<LB>"<HSEP>9<HSEP>" <HSEP>"<HSEP>heodore<HSEP> 20.00<LB>"<HSEP>" Dave<HSEP>26.00<LB>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>R ?<HSEP>5.00<LB>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>for expense<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">20.00</HI>
047.sgm:<LB>"<HSEP>"<HSEP>Ex. from W. C.)<HSEP> 343.50<LB> to Ranch<HSEP>)<HSEP> 100.00</P>
047.sgm:<P>H. E. Green<LB>Amsterdam, N. Y.</P>
047.sgm:<P>Montgomery Co. Write by the 10 July in regard to ewes &amp; lambs &amp; young ?</P>
047.sgm:<P>(On tho last sheet is a Spanish vocabulary, which he no doubt was utilizing in order to converse with the Spanish speaking Californians. The spelling is purely phonetic, and descriptive, if not Spanish!)<LB>caliente<HSEP>warm<LB>igri<HSEP> wind<LB>ki aw wah<HSEP>rain<LB>ow e<HSEP>today<LB>my ya nah<HSEP> tomorrow<LB>passando mi ya nah - 3d day<LB>Ben a cah<HSEP>      come<LB>vamos<HSEP>go<LB>Espa arata<HSEP>stop<LB>ono sa manna<HSEP>1 week<LB>on mace<HSEP>1 month<LB>on anyo<HSEP>1 year<LB>mohow<HSEP>wet<LB>secco<HSEP>dry<LB>Ono<HSEP>1<LB>Doce<HSEP>2<LB>trace<HSEP>3<LB>quarto<HSEP>4<LB>Sinco<HSEP>5<LB>sace<HSEP>6<LB>sietta<HSEP>7<LB>ocho<HSEP>8<LB>nu a va<HSEP>9<LB>di a si<HSEP>10<LB>on si<HSEP>11<LB>do si<HSEP>12<LB>tra si<HSEP>13<LB>cha to si 14<LB>kin sa<HSEP>15<LB>di a si ase<HSEP>16<LB>di a si etta<HSEP>17<LB>dia si ocho<HSEP>18<LB>di a sin wa va<HSEP>19<LB>Benta<HSEP>20<LB>benta ono<HSEP> 21<LB>tran tah<HSEP>30<LB>quarantah<HSEP>40<LB>sin quen tah<HSEP>  50<LB>sa sen tah<HSEP>60<LB>sa ten tah<HSEP>70<LB>ocha entah<HSEP>80<LB>no ven tah<HSEP>90<LB>si ento<HSEP>100<LB>ono mil<HSEP>1000<LB>dos mil<HSEP>2000</P>
047.sgm:<P>In the back are numerous notes which appear to have been jotted down hastily enroute: Jany 26 from San Bernardino from San Margarita to Paso Robles 10 mi ???<LB><HSEP>spring about 5 miles from Pas Robles<LB><HSEP>San Magill 15 take left hand road<LB> <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:Massemento Creek 6   grass &amp; water<LB>Old adoba house  8<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<LB>Las pases Ranch  8<HSEP>"<HSEP>"<LB><HSEP>Camps between these places<LB>Coxes Ranch<HSEP>15<LB>Camp between these places<LB>Soledad Mission  22 cross Salinus<LB>Allisah Ranch 14<LB>12 mile house  12  good place to stop<LB>San Juan<HSEP>12  on right hand side<LB>cross creek 4 miles take left hand road<LB>New Gilroy<HSEP>14 up canon</P>
047.sgm:<P>Sophia leaves Alviso on Monday, Wednesday &amp; Friday on the arrival of stage for San Francisco</P>
047.sgm:<P>J. L. Hatcher wants a first rate silk velvet vest at Keys on Clay St.</P>
047.sgm:<P>E. A. Perry Co.<HSEP> 300.<LB>By cash     162.25<LB><HSEP>137.75<HSEP>$300.00<LB>To Paid for ticket<HSEP>  153.25<LB>Bill at Am Exchg<HSEP>7.50<LB>"<HSEP> "<HSEP>Acapulco<HSEP>1.50<LB>Paid Hatcher<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">137.75</HI>
047.sgm:<P>March 1858 - $16,1120.00</P>
047.sgm:<P>Montezuma Hills, Salono County West of Sacramento river, 10 miles East of ? City, 30 miles of Sacramento City, best grazing place in the valley.</P>
047.sgm:<P>Golden Gate is an unsafe boat<HSEP>473 at ranch<LB>Solano<HSEP>9 at camp<LB><HSEP>102 sold<LB>(quite a jumble of figures hear)<LB>656 head stock<LB>Major Hendricks ? San Isabel<LB>Mattingly &amp; Johnston</P>
047.sgm:<P>(And so ends the memos in the little green book, in the fly leaf of which is the signature which is traced below --<LB><HANDWRITTEN>J G Hamilton's<LB><HSEP>Memorandum<LB><HSEP>Nov 1848</HANDWRITTEN>
047.sgm:<P>We have no history of James Gillespie Hamilton prior to his residence in Missouri, but what we have learned of him tells us that he was, in a quiet way, a very great man. From various sources we have bits of genealogical information concerning the Hamiltons, some of which are given in "My Dear Cornelia", page IV <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
047.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
047.sgm:<P>"Hamiltons of Ogden Center and their antecedents, of Norwich, Colchester, Nova Scotia and the British Island, together with an account of several related families by James Alexander Hamilton" ("Designed and made into a book by the Saunders Studio - 25 copies printed only"<HSEP>-- it was Copy No. 21, marked as a gift to the Library. 1930)</P>
047.sgm:<P>It tells the story of Sir Gilbert Hamilton who took the motto "Through" and chose an oak cut by a saw for his Crest in memory of his deliverance by posing as a woodcutter when he was fleeing from the wrath of King Edward II to King Robert Bruce of Scotland.</P>
047.sgm:<P>Another interesting little book in the Los Angeles Public Library - "Ancestral Lines of the Doniphan-Frazee-Hamilton families by Frances Frazee Hamilton" speaks of the first man to bear the name of Hamilton - "Sir Walter Fitz Gilbert de Hameldone" who was a favorite of King Robert Bruce of Scotland, and whose decent is authentically traced from the Duke of Normandy, father of William the Conqueror, down through the Beaumonts. From these and other sources it seems that the Beaumonts, Bellomontes, were the same, both bearing on their crest the same three cinquefoils used on the Hamilton Crest--and that one Bernard of France was the progenitor of the Bellomontes.</P>
047.sgm:<P>Tho union of the Hamiltons and Bernards generations later is interesting--one wonders just where James Gillespie Hamilton and Cornelia Bernard fit into the pattern. The arresting similarity of the Latin mottos on both coats-of-arms is intriguing --</P>
047.sgm:<P>Hamilton - "Solo nobilitos virtus" translated as "Virtue is noble in itself" or "Virtue only is noble."</P>
047.sgm:<P>Bernard - "Virtus pro bata florebit" translated "Virtue proven will flourish."</P>
047.sgm:<P>As we ponder these miscellaneous memos of James Gillespie Hamilton we feel that, appropriately, "Virtue only is noble" was his creed. A warm affection surges through us--a love and admiration for the grandfather we never met, and we feel that we know him very well! We are grateful for him and his beloved Cornelia and all the others like them who migrated from care-free plantations in the Old South to carry civilization into the ever-widening west of the nineteenth century.</P>
047.sgm:<P>And as our thoughts turn again to the old Union Cemetery in Kansas City and the monument bearing the name "Hamilton" we feel humbly aware of the eternality of the individual expression of the virtues of faith, honesty, courage, kindness,--true nobility!</P>
049.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94">
049.sgm:<FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-049</TITLE>
049.sgm:<TITLE>Letters from California.  By Harriet Harper: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
049.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
049.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
049.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
049.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
049.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
049.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
049.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>44-26997</LCCN>
049.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
049.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
049.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<HEAD><HI REND="bold">LETTERS FROM CALIFORNIA.</HI>
049.sgm:<P>BY</P>
049.sgm:<P>HARRIET HARPER.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Printed for private distribution.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<BODY><DIV>
049.sgm:<HEAD>LETTERS FROM CALIFORNIA.
049.sgm:<LB>FROM NEW ORLEANS TO LOS ANGELES--A LAND OF MILK AND HONEY--BEAUTIFUL MOUNTAINS AND MARVELOUS BUSINESS ENERGY.<LB></HEAD>
049.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES, CAL., May 14, 1888.</P>
049.sgm:<P>California! I wonder what sort of picture these ten letters form upon your mental retina? Is it of flowers or fruit, of delicious climate, of gold mines, of big potatoes? To me it was one and all of these, a volume of fairy tales quite as charming as Cinderella and the glass slipper, and quite as mythical and elusive.</P>
049.sgm:<P>I don't know how we ever came to formulate our plans for this trip, for of course we had talked it over in an idle, desultory way many and many a time. I think we were both rather inclined to be independent, having reached those years when if discretion has not put in appearance, it is hopeless even to look for it; in fact, we were two women bent upon having a happy, untrammelled tour of six months in California, and we could not be made to see why the accident of sex should keep us from our hearts' desire. We wanted to go; why should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>No argument at all!" we bore down upon them ruthlessly; "if women can hold a council they are capable of traveling about their own country."</P>
049.sgm:<P>Well, it all ended, or rather began, in a Pullman palace car, with tickets for two, on the Sunset route.</P>
049.sgm:<P>As the train crept slowly out of Algiers, Marion and I mutely but impressively clasped hands. We had cut the traditional apron strings; we had snapped our fingers at old saws; we had asserted and maintained a positive individuality. The lunch basket lurched eloquently from the opposite seat; the map of the great Southern Pacific Railroad lay wide open upon our laps; the folded coupons, with Los Angeles as our goal, lay safely within our pockets.</P>
049.sgm:<P>The first day we were too much surprised at ourselves, and too deeply interested in our fellow travelers and a couple of books (which, being warned against as especially naughty, we had made every effort to provide ourselves with) to notice much of the passing scenery. The second day, however, we entered the "Lone Star" State and cut across that immense territory, through flowering fields of cacti, ranging from pale lemon to the deeper, richer hues of the blood orange. We trampled over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>The third day bore us to the grandest scenery along the whole route, which is, of course, the can&tilde;on of the Rio Grande. We tore headlong past the great limestone cliffs, rising perpendicularly 200 or 300 feet above our heads; we dived recklessly into the very heart of stone; we spun along over the crumbling edge of huge precipices; we fairly flew over a network of tressles; and yet, whichever way we turned or twisted there was always the Rio Grande river close at our heels, like a faithful dog.</P>
049.sgm:<P>We were fortunate enough to behold a mirage in Arizona--a great sea dotted with green, tempting islands, and three shadowy, ghostlike ships bearing down upon us in full sail; and yet, while our eyes told us all this, there was an interminable sand plain with not a tree, or a shrub, or a green blade of grass to mitigate the cruel barrenness. For hours and hours the same desolate, hopeless waste environed us--an endless sea of sand--an ocean of whiteness and over it all the burning, scorching sun, beating down as though it could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>I think Yuma was the most interesting town along the whole route. Our train had scarcely drawn itself alongside the pretty little station, when we found ourselves surrounded by the Yuma Indians. They bore down upon us from every possible point, and assumed every possible posture; ranging themselves like a gay frieze against the white clayey mounds, or overrunning the car platforms, and proved themselves as curious and socially disposed as ourselves. The women were bestrung with beads, and I am fain to confess that their garments were of the scantiest. One young girl wore merely a huge strip of red flannel held on by means of innumerable brass safety pins; another wore several yards of red uncut handkerchiefs, draped something like a Roman toga across her pretty shoulders, for they were beautifully rounded in spite of their brown hue, and her features were regular, even though they were daubed and disfigured by yellow ochre.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Is there anything in all this world more delightful than traveling? To feel all your senses tuned to a fine receptive mood; to find yourself living in the heart of strange scenes; to go whirling over grand canons; to span wild romantic rivers; to skirt the base of huge solitary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>The train is drawing near Los Angeles. I know it by the universal strapping of bags, the unprecedented activity of the porter, the brushing of hats, the finding of umbrellas. I know it by the jovial farewells interchanged, by the universal satisfaction and delight pictured on every face, for how else but in happiness and brightness should a mortal enter the "City of the Angels?"</P>
049.sgm:<P>I wonder if any power of words could properly depict the beauties of Los Angeles? I had heard about it, read about it, and thought that I was prepared for it; but it all smote upon my eyesight like a revelation; and still I wonder, and still the wonder grows, and never once have I sallied forth from the pretty street where I have my abiding place that my lips have not poured forth a series of rapturous exclamations.</P>
049.sgm:<P>It happens very pleasantly for us that we are in the highest portion of the city, a sort of Muezzin's tower, eighty feet above the compact business portion that clambers up from all sides. When I stand at a near street corner, pressing eagerly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>The Sierra Santa Monica and the San Jacinto Mountains, portions of the Coast Range, take on misty violet hues, soft lines against the sky, and sometimes parting their mistiness like a curtain reveal tiny glimpses of the great Pacific, eighteen miles away; but the black Sierra Madre always pierces the fair, blue sky in unchanging sternness. It never softens; it never lowers its standard of supreme command; it never takes on fine and fickle coloring, or grows misty with sympathetic tears. You see it not at all, or you see it in all its majestic grandeur--a mighty range, an awful prophecy, a soul-thrilling mystery.</P>
049.sgm:<P>There is something in the crisp, rarified air of this pretty city that acts like a stimulant upon the human system. Take a walk down Spring street (the principal thoroughfare) any bright, sunny day, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>There are no end of runaways, and every time Marion and I have been to drive we have feared each moment was our last. A spirit of venture and risk flows through every vein of the city. Street car riding, which is tame and commonplace enough as a rule, partakes here of the perilous and thrilling. Most of the cars are run by cables. To see one coming down a precipitous incline is startling; to ride in one of the open cars is quite as daring a feat as keeping yourself in an Irish jaunting car. I confess I shut both eyes and hold on with both hands, and feel delightfully reckless.</P>
049.sgm:<P>I don't think any one could ever be slow, or sluggish, or dispirited in these parts. It is the land of hope and aim and ambition. The very atmosphere teems with gigantic enterprises; the sound of the hammer and the trowel greets you in every direction; massive structures are rising like magic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>This unparalleled push and energy would be a matter of universal exclamation if Los Angeles were not in California, and California not in America. Why, there are roads enough graded, and sufficient lots staked out to equal the area of New York City, and all this has been accomplished in thirteen years, since the energies of the East have found the fertility of the West. What will it come to? How will it end? are questions of the hour.</P>
049.sgm:<P>I saw to-day at Inglewood--a place ten miles from the city limits of Los Angeles, and whose first house was built eight months ago--miles of the finest cement banquette, bordering a far-reaching field of yellow grain. It is true that there several houses going up, and a large hotel nearly completed; but think of the amount of capital required to grade miles upon miles of streets, build reservoirs, bore artesian wells, plant flowers, lay out orange groves and construct city pavements; to build in such a place, without any surety of people! it is very much like putting the cart before the horse. There is no end to those newly-sprung places. They form a perfect net-work about Los Angeles.</P>
049.sgm:<P>It is the easiest thing in the world to be drawn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>Undoubtedly Southern California is the garden spot of America, and judging from its past prosperity and progress it must hold a magnificent future. No one, even the most prejudiced, can dispute its advantages. The most stolid and lymphatic native must be stung into an appreciation of his country's resources and dream that he has reached that Biblical land flowing with milk and honey.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Think of a country where, on any casual drive, you will pass acres of growing vegetables, of every known variety; drive through long avenues of orange groves, see the peach, apricot, nectarine, fig, almond, walnut, lemon, banana and olive growing side by side with equal thrift and luxuriance. Think of the miles upon miles of vineyards, the yield of wine alone; bear in mind an unequalled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:fertility of soil in an unequalled climate; fancy a picturesqueness of situation outrivaling an Alpine village; cast your mind's eye over mountain, meadow, valley and river, with the blue skies always warm, and the ocean breezes always cool, in a country possessing everything and lacking nothing; do you wonder at the boom?  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<LB></DIV>
049.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II.</HEAD>
049.sgm:<P>HOSPITALITY OF THE LOS ANGELEANS--CATHEDRAL OF THE QUEEN OF THE ANGELS--A TRIP THROUGH CHINATOWN--A JAUNT TO SANTA MONICA.</P>
049.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES, May 25, 1888.</P>
049.sgm:<P>To saunter about the streets of Los Angeles is to conceive a wonderful idea of the Los Angeleans' hospitality. Even from the tiniest cottage (and they nearly all seem like toy habitations) dangles the notice of accommodation. It is exceptional when you discover a house lacking the printed formula of "furnished rooms;" and the bright, cozy little domiciles, with the roses running merrily over the roof, or peeping slyly into my lady's chamber, or laying soft fingers across the published privilege of entrance, make their way into your heart, and your provisional home is settled in the usual adventitious manner.</P>
049.sgm:<P>It is not at all the thing to sleep and eat in the same house. Everyone is a Bohemian, a civilized nomad, and finds his meals wherever fate lands him. If he discovers the aching void while he is in the adobe town, he asks the handsome, dark-eyed sen&tilde;orita for hot tomales and chocolate. If he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>There is an old cathedral down in adobe town, the "Cathedral of the Queen of the Angels," where I rather like to find myself. It is built of adobe, and has no special architecture, being low and broad, with an ill-proportioned attempt at cruciform, and possessing an altogether familiar and undignified air, standing forth on Main street like some rotund, worldly abbot, brushing his skirts against the sordid stream of human life. Passing through a graveled yard, with a great wooden paintless cross set in its center, you find the side entrance. The door is always open; you pass inside and see a wooden floor, worn into little shelving hollows by the friction of faithful feet. It is the oldest looking, darkest, dingiest sort of a church imaginable, though built in 1823, and comparatively in its prime.   The straight-backed, wooden pews are cut and scarred, and boast neither cushions or stools. Against the low, white walls, the different stations of the cross are marked by crude lithographic representations.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>The three altars are crowded together at the farther end, possessing much trumpery and tinsel, with little of that true dignity and solemnity with which the Catholic Church is so widely associated. But in the low church tower there is a chime of bells brought from far Spain, and every Sunday morning, when the dark-eyed senoritas wend hither to shrive them of their sins, the bells peal forth in soft, mellow notes, as an abbot's sun-kissed wine pours from the flagon.</P>
049.sgm:<P>I often punctuate my walks by a quiet seat in this unlovely sanctuary, for its very mustiness is redolent of those old days when the sun lay in long lazy bars across the clustering adobes; when the Mexican with his broad sombrero, and the senorita with gleams of bright gold swinging from her ears, lived their dreamy, purposeless lives, and weened not of the great city that was to spring up and crush out their sunny solving of existence.</P>
049.sgm:<P>What a queer race are the Chinese! I cannot get used to them, although they are as frequently met on the streets of Los Angeles as the negro in New Orleans. Every time I pass the almond-eyed Celestial, with his blue blouse and his long black queue, I find myself turning to gaze at him as though he were the very first of his race my eyes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>It was 9.30 o'clock when we reached the plaza--which is, by the way, the center of the town from which everything radiates, even Chinatown--and scarcely had we reached this open space when our eyes were greeted with several magnificent lanterns, seeming to be of glass, beautifully cut, set in antique bronze, and our ears were assailed with sounds like a frenzied beating upon all the battered tins in the neighborhood. As we came nearer we distinguished a man's voice, in thin falsetto, finding the range of musical harmony in the dull monotony of two notes at a high C pitch. It was a curious crowd (not meant for a pun) that gathered in front of these musicians. The streets all about were crowded with Celestials, seemingly entranced by the dulcet tones that the deficiencies of my education debarred me from appreciating.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Well! we were the most impertinent, prying set of people you would care to meet. We stopped at nothing; that is to say, we halted at everything.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:Down the narrow, lantern-hung streets there was not a single window that our eyes slighted. We gazed into a barber shop and saw a man under the interesting operation of having his queue dressed. We passed meat-markets, cook-shops, tailoring establishments, with Chinamen industriously plying the needle. We insinuated our way into tempting tea-stores, and inveigled pretty, steaming, teapots from their cushioned cozies, and drained the tiny cups, inwardly convinced that the best milk and sugar in the world was a novelty. We smiled our way into the midst of a game of dominoes where the fumes of opium permitted but a glance. We confided to a docile-featured Celestial our overweening desire to count "a la Chinois," and he very patiently sought to instruct our dumb understanding. We made our way into the principal Chinese restaurant and saw the chopsticks and the absinthe glasses ranged in regular rows on the great round tables. We were permitted to enter the sacred precincts of the kitchen, and I confess I gave way to a spasmodic shiver, as though an imaginary mouse had suddenly scuttled across my path. As we came forth from the stronghold of steaming pans and mingled savors, two little Chinese children, a girl and boy, aged four and six respectively, rushed up to us, put out their hands and cried "helloa." They were both decked out in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>I wonder what Chinatown thought of us? We never stopped to ask. We drank their tea and ate their candy, and went on our way as merry as you please. When we met glum looks we simply laughed all the more, though they were, on the whole, inclined to be patient and long-suffering, and took all we said, and did, and asked in good part. They even taught us a little Chinese, but the only bit of it I can remember now is something that sounds like "change your luck," but which means "good-by."</P>
049.sgm:<P>It seems to me that the sky is bluer, that the grass is greener, that the earth is brighter and browner in Los Angeles than elsewhere. The exceeding brilliancy of coloring whimsically suggests to me certain feverishly-bought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>The pepper is <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
049.sgm:<P>Last week Marion and I took a day's jaunt to Santa Monica, the nearest ocean outlet of the Los Angeleans, where they take their pleasure trips, and place their picnics and get a dip in old mother ocean. There were ten cars packed to overflowing, and we were forced, for lack of better expedients, to find seats in an immigrant sleeper; but the full force of the unpleasant position did not dawn upon me until the upper berths were let down and a fringe of masculine legs, swaying like ill-balanced pendulums, blocked the passage-way. I pressed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>I need not tell you that the day was bright and beautiful, for every day is like unto another, and plans are never clogged with a mass of meteorological contingencies, and the fair sex is not prone to go about with that hideous adjunct of precaution--a gossamer. One may never wake in the morning listening to a drowsy summer shower, or seek slumber at night beneath the gentle pattering of rain upon the roof, for summer will be over, and fall and winter will have come, ere another rainstorm.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>As we went speeding through the vast patches of vineyards, willow-green in the sunlight, dust-drowned in lurking shadow, I wondered if in paradise we could be quite content, if one might not be brought to beg the penalty of pain to lend an added zest to pleasure; for in all this broad, beautiful, southland heaven has proclaimed one solitary denial--its summer tears--and for those tears earth, sea, and sky seem ever to cry aloud!</P>
049.sgm:<P>Science has, however, outwitted nature, and vineyards, orange groves, orchards and market gardens are kept in a thriving condition through an artificial system of irrigation by means of innumerable <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
049.sgm: (pronounced sankeys), which are nothing more or less than deep ditches filled with water and banked up high on each side with earth. Twice or thrice during the summer these earth banks, which look like miniature levees, are cut away, and the water rushes out upon the thirsty land until it has drank its fill; then the tiny crevasse is mended and a cut is made in another portion of the <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
049.sgm:, and so on until the whole field is irrigated. Of course it is some little trouble, but it looks more than it really is, for the labor is necessarily of a negative complexion, and the small outlay of extra effort is met at by an unparalleled ratio of return.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>These <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
049.sgm:<P>From the bay window of the hotel I caught my first view of the Pacific. My impression was that the window overhung the ocean, so completely was my vision drowned in blue. It was not the blue of the Atlantic, but a tender, silvery green, melting into mellow turquoise and darkening at the horizon's rim into a strand of purest sapphire; and over it all there lingered a mystic magic, a luring Lorelei, a furtive fantasy of moods, that kept my eyes bewitched and held my steps enthralled. And <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:then when my gaze wandered from right to left it was to discover a silver crescent of sand, reaching its white arms out in silent invitation to the blue, and back from sea and sand sprang the white perpendicular cliffs, and behind all, frowning down like some silent mentor at a love feast, rose the dark peaks of the Cahuenga Range. There were many bathers tossing in the surf, many more lying in the warm, soft sand and making of themselves mock grave-diggers. But I did not care to look at the people; I had not come to see them, but to paint a picture upon my mental canvas, and even as I write the picture spreads ont before me, and I wonder how many days will come to me that will equal this red-lettered day at Santa Monica.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<LB></DIV>
049.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III.</HEAD>
049.sgm:<P>THE CITY OF THE GOLDEN GATE--WONDERFUL SHOPS AND TAILOR-MADE GIRLS--AN OLD MISSION.</P>
049.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, June 6, 1888.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Here we are, Marion and I, in fascinating Frisco! The Palace Hotel, that world-famed caravansary, is but a block away from us. Before we had been an hour in the city we were traversing its corridors, gazing in acute admiration at its beautifully marbled court, and eyeing with intense interest a crowd of "Raymonds," over whose calm, conservative features was spread that light of ineffable culture which marks the true Bostonian.</P>
049.sgm:<P>But the very first thing that caught my eye in the Palace Hotel, in fact the thing that made me stop before I had gone six paces along the marble corridor, was <HI REND="italics">The Times-Democrat</HI>
049.sgm: upon one of the news-stands. Glancing at its familiar face with the mental reservation that it might prove to be a California paper of the same name, I walked up and covertly turned its folded pages. It was the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Times-Democrat,</HI>
049.sgm: in truth. If I had been a man, I would have bought that paper; being a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>If cable-car riding was thrilling in Los Angeles, it is positively terrifying here. It is an alternation of shooting up into the sky like a rocket, and rushing down apparently into the very bowels of the earth. So perpendicular are several of the hills that we, sitting in the rear of the car, completely lost sight of those in the front seats; and this lasted the length of three or four blocks. Only when we reached a bit of level ground did I dare take breath and enjoy the wondrous views that our swift, bird-like circling afforded us.</P>
049.sgm:<P>I cannot truthfully say that the City of San Francisco is a beautiful one; but it is strangely unique, possessing like New Orleans characteristics peculiar to itself. "Knob Hill," one of the highest points in the city, commanding a vast and extended view, boasts a number of bonanza residences, all elegant and costly structures, the bronze fence of the Flood mansion costing alone $100,000. A bird's-eye view of the city shows an interminable mass of wooden buildings, not drowned in green or softened by clambering vines, but standing out, every point and pinnacle bare, in the brazen sunshine. There is scarce a tree to be seen in any direction you may choose to look. The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>This is, of course, a bird's-eye view of the city. In its immediate center all is bustle and business --the fire and energy of a great metropolis--and I have never seen more beautiful goods, or more magnificent stores, or broader streets, or more stylish women. The tailor-made girls look fresh from the hand of "Redfern," and have most charming complexions and possess an air of "go" that is altogether fetching. I suppose it must be the climate, for with the wind always blowing you about and cutting your cheeks like fine knife edges, how could the aesthetic girl preserve her proper pose?</P>
049.sgm:<P>Golden Gate Park is a wonderfully pretty place, perfectly kept and with a conservatory unequalled by that of any other American city. Plants from all points of the world are found here; rare orchids, magnificent palms, misty ferns, and there is also a wondrous pink lily blooming by the side of the gigantic pods of the Victoria Regia. The conservatory--or conservatories, for there are many in one--was bought from the James Lick estate by a number of public-spirited men, and presented by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>On a soft velvety mound under a clump of trees, a couple of small boys were rolling like young kids; near them was a picnic party with lunch spread out. Then for the first time, it came over me what it is that is so peculiar about this park; there are no policemen and no restrictions against treading on the beautiful grassy carpet. Babies and children trot over it, mothers sit on it, men lounge under the trees with book or newspaper, lovers make short cuts across it to reach each other. It is literally a park free to the people, and every man, woman and child within its gates a policeman pro tem.</P>
049.sgm:<P>If one wishes a superb view of the Pacific he will go to the Cliff House. It is but a short distance outside the city, and it takes only twenty minutes to reach it by the dummy line. Here are the great Seal Rocks, and for a long time we sat on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>We have spent hours wandering through Chinatown. We have looked a great deal, and we have bought very little--a feminine peculiarity; but we have admired everything, even the Chinese babies. We have talked with the women, and we have tried the patience of the men. We have called everything lovely, from a hideous caricature down to a back-scratcher; and the Chinamen quite agree with us, echoing our words with the flavor of an original discovery.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>Night is the time to see Chinatown in all its glory, which means with all its lanterns lighted. The streets are very narrow, not much more than alleyways, and look smaller even than they are because of these fanciful illuminations, which give to them a fantastic gala appearance.</P>
049.sgm:<P>And such crowds of blue-bloused Chinamen! Such quantities of black gossamer-like material wasted upon the women! Up and down the streets they poured like so many ants rushing for their anthill. Every now and then we would come upon a dark passageway, sometimes with a perforated green curtain hanging before it, sometimes not; but always with a Chinaman behind a half-closed iron door. These were the gambling dens, and a Caucasian has only to take two steps in the direction of this watchful sentinel when, presto! the door shuts like a shot. Neither policeman or detective is quick enough to make the passageway before the flash of that iron door; consequently gambling reigns triumphant in the face of the law.</P>
049.sgm:<P>We could not gain entrance to any of the theaters, it being some feast day; but I was rather glad of this, for we went one night in Los Angeles, and between the monotonous rasping of the instruments and the alarming symptoms of bronchitis manifested by the whole company, I resolved to avoid further experience of a like painful nature.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>But we found the Joss-house up two flights of stairs, built on a sort of roof which looked very pretty, with jars of green plants ranged along the edges. A Chinaman sat out on this roof before the Joss-house and waited for us to enter, which we were very swift in doing. So swift, in fact, that we nearly ran over a group of Chinamen smoking their long pipes just inside. The room was full of smoke and it was some moments before we could see clearly. There was a great deal of gilt work, a sort of chancel in gilt inclosed in a glass case that nearly divided the room, and inside of this there was something that resembled a gilded altar, and in its very center, which formed a sort of shrine, were three wooden images--a very red-faced Joss, and two less luminous satellites. Tapers were burning in their honor, and a very stale-looking cup of tea held a prominent position.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Walking out out on Market street the other day, a blue car came along, and as it halted for a passenger I read, among other points of its destination, "The Dolores Mission." This was what I had all along wanted to see--an old mission. So I pulled Marion along, we sprang upon the dummy, and off it flew as though shot out of a catapult. The mission is out in the poorer portion of the city, very far away from the center of life and trade, though once its little cluster of buildings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>This mission was built in 1776 by the Indians under the Franciscans' direction. It is, of course, adobe. Its architecture--if one may use so large a word for so primitive an attempt--is Gothic. There are two rows of sunken Ionic columns upon its front, and three great bells brought from Spain let into their proper apertures in the solid masonry above the columns. There is a cross upon the pointed roof and plain arched wooden doors give entrance. It is one of those places you long to sketch.</P>
049.sgm:<P>It is very odd-looking inside, the ceiling of rough boards being painted red, white and blue, somewhat like a barber's pole, only the colors are worn and faded now. The one aisle with its two rows of straight wooden pews leads up to the altar of white-painted wood, behind which, in place of marble or stained glass window, is a reredos reaching to the ceiling, of strangely-carved, gaudily-painted wooden figures. This also came from Spain. It must have been the delight of the Indians when it arrived, all fresh paint and glittering gold; but a hundred years have dimmed its luster. The figures look dusty and worn, and more or less mutilated, and one feels sorry for them, somehow, they have so far outlived their Indian friends. One would call it a poor old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>Close by the church, seeking its benediction like a faithful follower, lies an old churchyard, so ruinous that nature seeks to cover up the shattered, crumbling tombstones. Trees have sprung up, and vines have woven barricades, and tender arbors over many an empty, desolate bit of ground, sacred to the ashes of the dead. The church and the churchyard seemed like an ancient couple, with whitened hair and tottering tread, wandering from old friends and old ties--on, on, into the blinding light of a new, unsympathetic era.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<LB></DIV>
049.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV.</HEAD>
049.sgm:<P>RAPID TRANSIT FOR A NICKEL--THE SEARCH FOR THE GOLDEN GATE--A SUBURBAN HAPPY HOLLOW.</P>
049.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, June 18, 1888.</P>
049.sgm:<P>If any one should ask me what I consider the most distinctive, progressive feature of California, I should answer promptly, its cable-car system. And it is not alone its system which seems to have reached a point of perfection, but the amazing length of the ride that is given you for the chink of a nickel. I have circled this city of San Francisco, I have gone the length of three separate cable lines (by means of the proper transfers) for this smallest of Southern coins.</P>
049.sgm:<P>It is the economy and value of time, as well as of purse, that is the underlying principle of this great Western slope. In no other city in the Union is the "almighty dollar" more glorified or deified. In New York the race for wealth is for what it brings; here it is for the thing itself. The great mass of people have no home life. They rent rooms and take their meals at restaurants. One might call San Francisco a city of houses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:without homes, so many residents live the lives of transient tourists, and so many more prefer to shut up their great wooden houses and nestle down in their pretty country homes "across the bay." It seems part of an unwritten law that a San Franciscan shall not live in San Francisco, for if he is not traveling or existing <HI REND="italics">a la carte,</HI>
049.sgm:<P>One morning Marion and I started out in quest of "Telegraph Hill," whence a fine view of the city was promised us. We had to go a long distance on the cars, and finally to climb a hill which fairly took my breath away. I do not recollect now that Marion spoke to me, or I to her, during the whole ascent. We simply dug our heels into the ground and grasped and panted and grew very red in the face; but we "got there."  The view is certainly very fine. You stand in the center of the circular parapet fronting the many-storied observatory and see the city lying in one compact mass as in the hollow of a hand. Every house is built of wood, every house has a bay window, every house is painted a dirty drab. A mass of drab, without a vestige of green, with the yellow graveled streets cutting their way through the drab at intervals--this is San Francisco. Beyond come the sand hills, and still beyond rise the great brown, verdureless peaks, eternally scarred by past passions of volcanic fires.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>I turned my face away from city and mountain, lying so colorless against an African blue sky, and it seemed like a happiness to meet the shifting colors of the beautiful bay, its waters laving the base of the cliff three hundred feet below. The bay wore drowsy opaline tints, and every now and then we caught glimpses of tiny white steamers, like snowy swans, gliding in and out among the many islands. The black masts of ships hung like a fringe about the city's edge; the waters lay against the great black bulwarks, soft and peaceful as a summer's dream. Alcatraz, the military prison island, shone forth in the bright sunshine like a very pleasant punishment. The bay is filled with islands, not ideal islands of gentle slopes and sighing pines, and clinging vines, and sea-washed bowlders; but islands that are mighty in altitude, brown and barren as a burned moorland, and thrusting an equally cruel stab against earth and sky. And yet, set in the beautiful bay, they hold a certain, awful fascination, and you cannot help thinking that all those broken monuments of mountains were hurled there by some violent abnormal disruption, when some other race, an unknown, wiped-out people, lived their little span upon this same old planet.</P>
049.sgm:<P>There are a great many places of interest in this city, and an earnest sight-seer can put in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>I think of all the places we have investigated, the Presidio proved the most interesting. This Presidio is the military station where about five hundred soldiers and officers are quartered. It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>Strangers and tourists are made welcome to these beautiful grounds, and on certain days the band plays, and brings quite a crowd. There happened to be few people the day Marion and I found ourselves there. We strolled freely through all the beautiful avenues, with their outlook upon the bay, lingering under the grateful shadows of the eucalyptus. The officers' quarters are bowers of roses, their plots of ground separated by hedges of geraniums, and the porches shaded with trellises of fuchsias. The pretty grass plots were closely clipped, and beautifully green; palms and shrubs and trees threw soft, loving shadows over this velvet carpet; and turn whichever way you could, there was the bay, and there were the little steamers plying in and out among the islands, and there was Alcatraz with its brick prison, seemingly not more than a stone's throw away, and there was the "Golden Gate" with the great white ships moving through like low-flying sea-gulls.</P>
049.sgm:<P>I do not know how many miles we walked over this place. I know we passed a number of gates and a number of sentinels, and that we went up hill and down dale, through the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>She looked at me a moment with a smile of pitying magnanimity. "Bless you! it ain't a real gate," she returned.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Indeed," I said, with an expression of interest.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Oh, no! it ain't any gate; its just two great rocks," she went on good-naturedly.</P>
049.sgm:<P>I thanked her and she passed on. By this time I was quite disgusted with our "Golden Gate" expedition, for I was tired, and there lay the long winding way back to the Presidio proper, every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>If you want to see one of the prettiest, sweetest little spots in the world, take a trip to San Rafael, some seventeen miles from San Francisco. If you want to get away from the wind, and the dust, and the drab wooden houses, and treeless streets, take the ferry at the foot of Market street to Saucilito, and from there the train to San Rafael. We enjoyed this trip more than I can tell. The ferry takes you some little distance down the bay, and the morning that we went, there were several Italians on board, who gave us some very inspiriting music. We passed under the shadow of Alcatraz, and wound in and out among the island mountains, in the same zigzag pathway we had noted the steamers pursuing from our vantage point on "Telegraph Hill."</P>
049.sgm:<P>Saucilito itself is a pretty little village on the side of a high mountain, with the houses overtopping each other, like the many stories of a Nuremburg mansion. I longed to stop there, to clamber up some of the refreshingly green heights, to get a view of the bay and the islands, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>We spent the day in a family dear to many a New Orleans heart. We wandered about the beautiful gardens, where great masses of color stood out, one against the other, like pigments cast at random on a painter's palette. Pretty children clung about us, and the hostess, a Southern-born woman, plucked great bunches of mignonette and heliotrope, and cut her fairest roses, her stateliest lilies, and filled our arms with the sweet burden. And all the while she smiled and spoke her pleasure at meeting us, and urged us to lengthen one day into many, with such sincerity and interest that I could scarcely believe our acquaintance was a matter of hours, and our introduction a formula of written words.</P>
049.sgm:<P>San Rafael is a sort of "Happy Hollow," a nest of pretty country homes, and from the green-bordered, winding drives you catch stray glimpses of the bay and its islands. With a wealth of green <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>If you were to ask me what was the pleasantest thing that happened to me in Frisco, I would tell you that it was the day I spent "just across the bay."</P>
049.sgm:<P>Ah, well! Everything must come to an end--sight-seeing and pleasant journeyings; new-made friends must be parted from; the groove of daily, delightful happenings must be disrupted. As I write these closing lines we are crossing the bay to Oakland, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
049.sgm: to Los Angeles. It is twilight, deepening into night. The city lies, a blur of mellow lights pendant 'twixt sea and sky. The black masts of ships reach up out of the gathering darkness like sorrowing phantoms. The wind is stilled; the bay spreads out a grewsome, blackened mass, sprent with molten gleamings. On the crowded ferryboat there is a strange hush and quiet. The small boy who sits beside us, submerged in our manifold bundles, watches my moving pen with grave speculation. I wonder if I am sorry that the train is waiting to bear me away?  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<LB></DIV>
049.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>V.</HEAD>
049.sgm:<P>THE RUSH AND BUSTLE OF A WONDERFUL CITY --A VISIT TO THE OSTRICH FARMS--SEEING A YOUNG BIRD BURST FORTH FROM ITS IMMENSE SHELL--A PICNIC JOURNEY--A VISIT TO THE MISSION OF SAN GABRIEL.</P>
049.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES, June 26, 1888.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Comparisons are odious, and it may seem even to partake of the ridiculous to compare Los Angeles with such a city as San Francisco, but the truth of the matter is, that the latter will have to make swifter and surer strides to keep long in advance of this pretty, progressive city. I traveled much, and I traveled far in Frisco, and I do not remember to have seen one new building in process of construction. It may have been that I missed the proper quarter for such activity, but here in Los Angeles, where $5,000,000 are being put into public buildings and improvements, you cannot turn your gaze upon any quarter of the business section that you do not see masses of granite, and brown stone, and brick, rising swiftly to the skies. Banquettes are fenced in for the laying of cement pavements, sand heaps and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>It is whispered that San Francisco is already growing jealous of this Southern city, and as for San Diego--that it goes off into a convulsive fit at the mere mention of the name. These are rumors, however, that I do not altogether credit, and merely give them for what they are worth. I know that Marion and I are quite happy to be back here again; that we greeted the mountains, and the orange groves, and the vineyards, and the brisk, busy streets with a smile of true affection, and we confided to each other in the midst of our twelve bundles, that there was no place like Los Angeles.</P>
049.sgm:<P>When you purchase those long, lovely ostrich plumes and pass your fingers over their soft, downy substance, are you ever curious about the bird who plumes herself with such rich vestments? It seems to me now that I shall never look upon an ostrich tip, however degenerate and bedraggled, without recalling something of the stately strut of this royal biped.</P>
049.sgm:<P>It was very impromptu--our trip to the ostrich <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>There were four of us in the party, and two very large baskets that elicited our tenderest solicitude. We placed our precious charges in the least vibratory altitude, then fell into a lively quartette, somewhat incoherent from all starting in on a different topic at the same moment, but very picnicky and sociable. As our train ambled through Los Angeles Valley--I cannot call it anything else, we went so slowly and unambitiously--we looked forth upon vast fields of yellow grain, great velvety swards of bearded barley, tiny would-be towns, nestling under the wings of shadowing eucalyptus, mountain peaks like the rim of a cup crowning the low-lying valleys; and then at the end of three-quarters of an hour, with a disjointed jerk, we drew up at Ostrich Farm Station.</P>
049.sgm:<P>For a small consideration we passed into the grounds, pleasantly situated on the side of a slope, and commanding a rare, camera-like view of mountain and valley, falling away together in a dreamy, picturesque perspective. The aim of the owner of these grounds is evidently to suit the manifold tastes of the picnicker, for there are monkeys, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>We passed along with scarce a glance at these side shows, for we were anxious to face an ostrich --with a stout fence between. We found as we approached that this protective provision was doubly emphasized, for there were two stout wooden railings keeping us at a respectful distance from his majesty, stalking around in solitary grandeur, or stopping to gaze at us with a vicious craning of his long, lean neck. There were twenty fullgrown ostriches, each in a separate pen, or rather open space fenced in. They looked about seven feet high, even taller when they suddenly stretched out their necks. But, oh, the gorgeousness of their wings! Great masses of rich, black, velvety ostrich plumes, drooping off into a snow-white cluster at their tips. I wonder that kings do not renounce the traditional ermine and assume these more majestic emblems of royalty. (These birds are perfectly bare about the neck and legs, and though their whole body is covered with rich plumes, the fullest, and longest and choicest are gathered from their wings.) Twice a year they are plucked, and the annual revenues which they bring to their possessor is, according to all accounts, quite a little fortune. The finest pair are valued at $800.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>It was quite comical to see the old bird with her new-born offspring. At first she disdained to notice the little thing, which looked about the size <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>We interviewed our two baskets under a great oak-tree, with the pretty valley spread out before us, and the sunlight and shadow chasing each other across the distant mountain slopes.</P>
049.sgm:<P>A party of friends joining us, we agreed that it would be fun climb a canon.  So off we started, now doubled in numbers. It seemed quite delightful, looking up in the direction of our prospective pilgrimage. The mountains were beautifully green, the air was like fine wine, the company inspiriting. I started off with buoyant spirits and a wealth of conversation at the head of the party.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>When we had got half-way up the mountain, there was a perceptible lessening of the general enthusiasm. The men looked tired from the practical tendering of their assistance, but my three original companions, though worn and fagged by the trip, looked unflinchingly at the mountain, and declared with true feminine courage and veracity, that nothing in the world would keep them from going to the top. And it is wonderful how a small boy, appearing at this juncture, could with a couple of discouraging words, turn us about so swiftly to retracing our steps. When, after a few frantic leaps and slidings, we found ourselves safely down, we knew we had suffered a keen disappointment. We told each other so. And not one of us could be forced to confess, even with red hot tongs, that we were glad we met that very small boy.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>Yesterday three of us started out on a trip to San Gabriel Mission, about twenty minutes ride from here on the Southern Pacific Railroad. This mission is the one point of interest in the sunny, sleepy little village of San Gabriel, dozing away on the broad bosom of the great San Gabriel Valley. Leaving the station, we picked our way through the dusty by-ways, deserted and silent save for the occasional flutter and cackle of some nomadic hen, and at the end of a very few minutes found ourselves facing the mission.</P>
049.sgm:<P>It sits by the roadside, a white-faced, rambling structure built of stone and stucco; but the stucco has fallen away from its sides in many places, and the stones are rounded and worn and mortarless; and the once sharp, clear-cut angles of its architecture have been softened and molded by the many years, until far from its once keen air of reprimand it greets you with a mild mien of reproval.</P>
049.sgm:<P>I do not know how I can picture this old Mission so that you can see it as I saw it--a long, irregular mass of crumbling stucco, lying out in the broad glare of an afternoon sunshine against a blue sky tropical in its brightness. Reaching up into the clear azure, a jagged, gleaming point crowned with an iron cross, is the most interesting portion of the mission. This is where the bells are  hung-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:Spanish bells, with strange inscriptions buried deep in rust and mold; brazen bells, hung on great rafters from hollowed archways, against the background of the sky. And here and there a bell is missing, and only the blue-arched spaces tell where an admonitory voice once dwelled. From this belltower the church extends out into a long, uninterrupted line of white stucco, until at the farther end a flight of solidly mortared steps lead up to a quaint, iron-railed balcony. And to the left of the steps, on a level with the ground, built of dark wood, studded with huge, brazen nails, blackened with rust, the church door swung half-open to the intrusive sunshine. About the threshold gay weeds had sprung up, and from the chinks in the steps, from the rim of the roof, from the very rifts between the rocks, weeds and bushes thrust their ambitious greenery as though triumphing at their high unsanctioned estate, and just above the church door, right on the very face of the church, a tree had taken root and struck out with as much vigor as though on its native soil, in a vertical altitude. The interior of the church is very crude. The floor cemented and worn and sunken. On the the white walls were frameless paintings of such unworthy execution that I did not wonder at their unshrined, ungilded state. There were only half a dozen pews on either side the only aisle, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>The church was very still, and dim, and cool. We walked up its solitary aisle and sat down in one of the pews. There was no one in the church save ourselves, and a Mexican woman kneeling in a dark corner, with the inevitable black shawl about her head and shoulders. The sounds of summer came in from the open doorway. The birds twittered and circled about a near open window. The Mexican woman drew herself into the shadow of her corner, and we could only now and then catch the glitter of her rosary. The soft, gentle stillness held a seductive charm for us all three. We were loath to leave, and I think, though we did not say it, that we secretly envied that Mexican woman, her faith in her rosary, and her religion.</P>
049.sgm:<P>As we came out into the sunlight we met the priest, a young, fresh-faced, pleasant gentlemen, who, on hearing of our interest in the Mission, showed us the old ruined garden and churchyard, and an old rusty anchor that was said to have come over in the first ship that ever reached the Pacific coast. From the garden he took us into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>To be sure these records of births, and marriages, and deaths, were all in Spanish, and not at all intelligible to us, but we hung over the pages with eager interest, and fingered the rough leather bindings with reverential touch, for did we not hold it our hands the ashes of a century's dead?</P>
049.sgm:<P>And do you know those old musty volumes sent me off into strange dreams, and I fell to wondering if it was in just such an old leather-covered book that Ramona's marriage with Alessandro was recorded? If Father Salvierderra was anything like Father Junipero? If these old Franciscan Fathers, with rough, sandaled feet and rope-cinctured gowns, would not have turned their backs with scorn or the velvet-capped, leather-shod, well dressed priest who stood smilingly relating their sad, solitary, unselfish endeavors.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<LB></DIV>
049.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VI.</HEAD>
049.sgm:<P>THE BEAUTIFUL CITY OF DREAMS--THE ANCIENT MISSION--AN EVELESS EDEN.</P>
049.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA, Aug. 17, 1888.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Let's go to Santa Barbara," I said one day to Marion.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Why not?" she answered.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Why not, of course," I echoed; and so we came.</P>
049.sgm:<P>We left Los Angeles in the morning train for San Pedro, the nearest harbor, toward the improvement of which, it is reported, many millions have been appropriated by the government. It is a dull, dusty, dreary place enough, and I was glad when the little tug pulled us away from the blinding glare of yellow sand, across the beautiful blue of the Pacific, to the huge sides of the good steamship <HI REND="italics">City of Puebla.</HI>
049.sgm:<P>There was quite a crowd going North that day, and as we slowly made our way from the little tug that wobbled and bobbed about anything but serenely, there were many jovial prognostications of <HI REND="italics">mal de mer,</HI>
049.sgm: and many teasing suggestions of expedients and remedies. It was very funny and we were all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>I leaned over the guard-rails and watched the little tug puffing and blowing and disgorging herself of huge Saratogas. No wonder that we talked of seasickness on the little lurching craft; but here, upon this great, stately steamer, to harbor the thought was impossible! This I said to myself with great impressiveness.</P>
049.sgm:<P>No sooner, however, were we fully under way and well seated at the long dinner table than, oh! such doubts and misgivings beset me. Our seats were very near the engine; there was a triple extract of machinery oil, mixed with the fragrance of dinner; the steamer seemed to be climbing mountains and falling down from precipitous heights; the very floor seemed to rise up under the table; my head began to whirl; I felt that I was growing pale. More than that, the awful thought came to me that everyone else must notice it. I looked up with dogged determination written on my fastblanching features. Of course they would laugh; of course they would go over some of those stale jests that they thought so funny; but to my amazement and relief every pair of eyes was bent upon its respective plate, every face wore a look of premeditated flight, every movement suggested anxious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:haste. I felt that the moment was mine. I clutched a piece of pilot bread, staggered the whole length of the dining-room, and reached the deck. The fresh air revived me, a lemon cured me, the pilot bread sustained me. And I asseverate, and shall always continue to do so, that a dizzy head is one thing, and <HI REND="italics">mal de mer</HI>
049.sgm:<P>The day was a beautiful one. The sky was without a cloud. There was just enough breeze blowing to make it pleasant, and the steamer had ceased her climbing, for the great waters lay all around us like sea of blue glass.</P>
049.sgm:<P>I sat down on a coil of rope in the stern of the boat, and, leaning my head back against a convenient support, I experienced the most delicious sensations. With half-closed, drowsy eyes I watched a flock of seagulls following in our wake. On our right were misty, magic islands; on our left rose the great Coast Range, uninhabited by man. Above and below sky and sea united to swathe us in their glorious blue. I felt that I was sailing--sailing--straight into the land of dreams.</P>
049.sgm:<P>And so indeed I was, for there can be no place more dreamy than Santa Barbara. It is the very soul of dreams, the haunt of dreamers, the dream of dreams. At sundown the grim Coast Range drew back, and there, above a silver crescent, from a peaceful sheltered hollow, Santa Barbara smiled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>Very soon we were being driven up State street, the main thoroughfare, and, in fact, the only thoroughfare. It is very broad, and boasts of asphalt pavement, and reaches from sea to mountain. We are not only at the very base of the mountains; we seem fairly to be a part of them, to have merged our life into theirs. I wonder if it is these great looming solitudes that make Santa Barbara what it is, if it is the sermons written in stone upon these mountain sides that bind its brow with the stillness of an eternal Sabbath? The silence is sentient. It is a place beautiful, but dumb; like an enchanted princess who lies waiting the magic touch of some gallant prince.</P>
049.sgm:<P>From where I sit at my window there is not a sound but the rustle of trees or an occasional footstep. I can scarcely believe that Los Angeles with its bustle and its building boom, is only a matter of a few hours away. But Santa Barbara in winter must be much less quiet, I fancy, for then it becomes the happy hunting ground of the consumptive and the invalid generally, who flee to this Western nook from Eastern rigors, and, according to the local accounts, are invariably cured thereby.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>If one wants to get away from the world, to cut loose from the race of life, to escape from the web that is being woven of pushing, jostling events; if one wants to be an idler, a dawdler, a dreamer, he will come here. Its very name is like a lullaby, its presence like a draught of its own vintage.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Under these disarming influences it has been hard for Marion and me to assume an alien energy. But that we have done so is evinced by the sleepy stares that follow us, and the exclamations of surprise that meet our discoveries; for we do make daily discoveries, and follow them up too.</P>
049.sgm:<P>We spent a whole morning wandering through Spanishtown, which resembles very closely our own Frenchtown. The houses are low, built of adobe, and with those long, sloping, picturesque tiled roofs that make one wonder why anyone should ever want to exchange them for the prosaic shingle. This Spanishtown is the old Santa Barbara, where Spaniard and Mexican had full sway, and the Indian smoked his pipe in peace. Here and there you run across many a Mexican family, living in an old red-tiled adobe, but the Indian has vanished entirely. He who once ruled this Western slope can scarcely claim a passing mention. But if the Indian has gone out the Chinaman has come in, and all through Spanishtown, tilting back their chairs and smoking their long pipes on the low <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>Beyond this old Spanish settlement, before the progressive American had found his way hither, the presidio stood. In all the places that Spain colonized, the presidio or fort was first built; within this was oftentimes a church; without it clustered a few adobes. All this has, of course, disappeared. The old fortress has returned long ago to the dust from whence it came, and only a few can point out to you the place where it once stood; we found it only by steady, persevering inquiry.</P>
049.sgm:<P>And in those old presidio days, doubtless the Indians gazed, awe-struck, at the smart, red-tiled buildings that Marion and I look upon now as relics, pathetic relics, of a departed day.</P>
049.sgm:<P>As we stood gazing upon one of these crumbling remnants, a dark-eyed Mexican boy came along, and noting our evident interest in ruins, began telling us of an old Mexican woman one hundred and four years old. Of course we determined to visit her, taking the small boy as a guide and interpreter. Think of it! a woman who had lived, perhaps, in the presidio days; a woman who had seen a fortress rise out from. and crumble back into, dust; a woman who had withstood the varying fortunes of a century, who had witnessed the fate of three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>We followed our small boy through many and devious ways, past dusty highways, and through garden patches, and, finally, when I looked at him sternly and asked where he was taking us, he pointed placidly to a low, white-painted adobe, and ran on ahead to inform them of their approaching visitors.</P>
049.sgm:<P>We were ushered by our guide into a cool, darkened room (for these adobe houses are the coolest in the world), and taking our places on two black horsehair chairs ranged against the wall, we waited. The floor was bare, and, except for the chairs and a large wooden table in the center of the room, there was no furniture, and no attempt at cheap ornamentation. Everything was exquisitely neat and clean, and between the half-closed shutters a breeze came sweeping in, making it delightfully fresh and sweet.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Presently, through a darkened passageway, there came an apparition so old and bent and doubled that I came near giving a cry of terror; but when she came nearer, I saw that her snow-white hair crowned a kindly face. She took my hand, seemed glad that we had come to call upon her, motioned us to be seated, and said something in Spanish.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:Before our small interpreter could tell us what it was, a younger women who takes care of her and at whose house, she lives, came in, and I judged from her volubility of greeting that she was glad to see us. What she said I know no more than the man in the moon. Our interpreter made many efforts to convey to our dumb understanding the gist of her words; but she bore down upon him like an incoming tide, and put out effectually his feeble efforts. Seeing that there was no hope of understanding a word she said, that she was not willing to wait for the boy to translate to us, I began talking with an equal amount of vigor. I looked at the old woman, who had let her head fall upon an arm of the chair, and who was still smiling at me, and asked a stream of questions. And there we sat, and talked, and laughed, without one understanding, a word that the other said; but when we rose to leave I mastered the one Spanish word in my vocabulary. Taking the old woman's hand in mine, I murmured, <HI REND="italics">"Adios."</HI>
049.sgm: I clasped the roughened palm of the younger woman, and looking into her honest eyes I again repeated, <HI REND="italics">"Adios,"</HI>
049.sgm: and I think she understood how much that word stood for. She followed us out into her little garden, and leaning over the white-painted fence, her figure half buried in marigolds, and phlox, and geraniums, she still smiled and waved her apron, calling after us, <HI REND="italics">"Adios, adios, adios!"</HI>
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049.sgm:<P>But what gives to Santa Barbara an added luster, or rather, what lends to it an exceptional quaintness, is its Mission. The Mission of Santa Barbara stands forth from all the Missions of California. Here a few of the Franciscan fathers still hold their sway, here a handful of monks still peacefully pursue their daily lives of prayer and routine. The Mission stands on a high elevation, overlooking the little town of Santa Barbara, with a wondrous view of crescent beach and bay and broad blue ocean. It is a stately structure, probably the finest, as it was the last built, of all the Missions. As you approach it, you are impressed by its appearance, but drawing nearer, you are conscious only of regrets; for the long wing, with its broad corridor and Spanish archways, has shaken off its old roofing of Spanish tiles, and shines smart and brisk in the sunshine with the modern American shingle, and the church itself of Greek inspiration, flanked by two square belfry towers, boasts new adobe upon its facade, and fresh paint upon its doors. It is said to be the only mission kept in repair, but I could almost wish it might disclaim such honor, so incongruous are modern touches upon this mellow bit of Spanish picturing. I have said that the Mission was impressive; I might say that it was elaborate, and even grand. A flight of a dozen or more broad stone steps form an open <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>When the doors of the church were opened we wandered in. We found it much larger and with more attempt at decoration than any of the other missions we had seen. Weird Indian designs, such as one may find on Aztec vases, form a frieze about the church, stud the ceiling, and completely cover the pillars and archways that lead from the entrance door. The proportions of the church are long and narrow, lending a dim dignity to the faraway altar. On each side, as you move along the one main aisle, are minor altars, each one fenced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>In the center of the church, midway between the entrance and the main altar, on each side of the thick adobe walls, are two arched doorways. The one on the right hand swung open, and we saw that it led into the old churchyard. In a few moments we had crossed the worn and sunken door sill, and were pacing among the graves and rank weeds. Above the door from which we had made our exit, three human skulls and crossbones are imbedded in the solid masonry. This rear portion of the church still preserves its picturesque tiled roof, and there is a high fence of solid masonry that shuts in the churchyard from the broad highway running close beside it. I have never seen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>Suddenly voices broke upon the silence. It was the Franciscan Fathers, high up in their cloistered choir above the main entrance, chanting their daily devotions. Out of the door across the old church yard, to the great mountain heights, the low, sweet melody drifted, and the leaves of the walnut-tree murmured something very like a response, and the doves gave forth a low, sad note like a sympathetic "Selah." Then there was silence again.</P>
049.sgm:<P>I do not know how long I might have sat in that old churchyard, borne away from all mundane matters, if I had not heard a bolt drawn suddenly behind me, and turning I saw a monk open the door facing to the one where I sat. Kneeling down opposite the altar, he began murmuring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>Now, I had not felt the least curiosity about this door, I had not even gone near it; but the rasping of the bolt aroused all my feminine fancies. I approached the door with an aroused interest. The sign, "No Strangers Admitted," was discouraging, but not deterring. Above the high wooden work were glass panes, and standing on tiptoe, I could just catch glimpses of a brimming fountain, graveled paths, grape arbors, flowering shrubs, beds of flowers, and cool verandas covered with red-tiled roofs.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Marion," I cried, turning breathlessly to where she stood waiting my report, for she was far too short to reach the level of my gaze, "Marion, I do believe this is the garden no woman has ever entered."</P>
049.sgm:<P>Without another word we each drew a chair up to the door, stood up in them and gazed with longing eyes into the forbidden Eden. It was something, after all, to look at a garden where no woman had ever been.</P>
049.sgm:<P>In coming out of the church we met a young <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>The bell jangled again, and soon another monk came to the door.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"We would like to see what we can of the Mission," I explained, with my thoughts bent upon the wonders of that garden.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Then you want to climb the belfry?"</P>
049.sgm:<P>I measured the climb, and hesitated.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"It gives you the finest view of Santa Barbara, and," he added inconsequently, "it overlooks the garden,"</P>
049.sgm:<P>Marion and I both assented to the climb with instant alacrity, and forthwith he led the way up a sort of donjon keep to the open archways where hung the Spanish bells. Sitting down on the broad lintels, with bells to right of us, bells to left of us, and bells above us, we looked down into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<HI REND="italics">padres'</HI>
049.sgm:<P>Oh! how I would like to go into that garden," I said to Marion, forgetful of the monk, but he heard and came forward.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Our order forbids a woman entering it."</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Yes, I know," I answered; and forthwith followed him over the roof of the church by means of solidly mortared steps into the second belfry tower. Here the bells were missing, but there was an uninterrupted view from the arched openings upon the mountains and the ruined Indian adobes, and from the archway facing the sea, the finest view of Santa Barbara. At our feet the little town lay wrapped in flowers and foliage, resting amid the encircling heights like a little bird in a nest. Beyond was the crescent shore, whose long, white arms clasped the beautiful bay, and beyond shore and bay shone an endless sea of sapphire, and still farther beyond, like ghostly dreams, rose the misty, magical islands. Nearly every one who comes to Santa Barbara climbs these belfry towers for the sake of the wondrous views.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>When we were down again in the cool corrider the Brother, who happened to be a Frenchman, and who evinced consequently a great interest in New Orleans, sat down beside us on an old wooden settee, and told us somewhat of the Franciscans. The order has been in existence some five hundred years. The King of Spain first sent them forth to colonize her American possessions and convert the Indians. It seems that they are not under the government of the Catholic bishop, but merely under the rule of their superior. They are self-supporting, and however much they may be in need, they deny themselves rather than ask help from the church. In the old days when all about the Mission the Indian had built his adobe dwellings and gave his labor there were orange and olive groves, and rare vineyards. A series of stone fountains played before the plaza, a stone aqueduct like those of old Roman days brought water from the neighboring canons, filling fountains and reservoirs. Now all this has disappeared. The one remaining fountain is battered and broken, the aqueduct is filled with dust and dirt, the reservoirs are all gone save one, the smallest, and from all the mighty vineyards, only one vine remains.</P>
049.sgm:<P>When we rose to go the Brother bade us wait a moment, and going into the house came forth bringing us an immense bouquet from the "Monk's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>As we went slowly away from the Mission I turned for a last look. The sun was just setting in a solemn sea of golden glory behind the great rockriven mountains. Over the wooden railing of the arched corridor the monk leaned, a solitary, somber figure. All at once the bells rang out, and pressing closer our precious trophy, I hurried on, and passing a corner soon lost sight of the Mission. And so ended one of the dream-days at Santa Barbara.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<LB></DIV>
049.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VII.</HEAD>
049.sgm:<P>THE PLACE OF RAMONA'S MARRIAGE--A TRIP INTO MEXICO.</P>
049.sgm:<P>SAN DIEGO, Sept. 7, 1888.</P>
049.sgm:<P>It is an old saying that one should speak well of the ship that carries him safely, but we have given more than lip-service to the <HI REND="italics">City of Puebla.</HI>
049.sgm:<P>There was absolutely nothing but blue to be seen; from the sky to the sea and from the sea again to the sky, it was like one hollowed sphere <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>San Diego is only about half as large as Los Angeles; but it possesses all its progressive instincts. An electric railway runs past my windows; steam motors take you in any direction. The principal streets have electric lights and cement pavements, and there is an encouraging amount of building going on. But, of course, it is in the primitive stage now, and what has already <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:been done is only a promise of much more that it intends to do. Like Los Angeles, all conditions are favorable for a future great city. Between the two places, however, there is a rather ridiculous spirit of rivalry, though in no way are they to be compared, or should they be contestants for the same palm. Los Angeles is an inland city, with the great productive San Gabriel Valley in her wake, but with no harbor for export; San Diego has a bay equal to that which has made San Francisco what it is today; but then, San Diego has nothing to export. Her back country is limited and undeveloped, and real estate, however easily negotiable, is not transportable, save in itinerant accumulations. It seems strange that these two cities should rather choose to stultify each other's energies than to clasp hands in the common weal of Southern California; but that this spirit of jealous rivalry is a fact beyond dispute can be proven by any one who has lived in either place. You cannot catch a stray bit of conversation that does not give you some individual's opinion on the relative merits of Los Angeles versus those of San Diego, and now that several hundred Knights Templar are to visit both places, the fun waxes fast and furious. The Los Angeles papers are full of righteous wrath because the real estate agents here have planned to distribute pamphlets in that city, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>Old San Diego, or Oldtown, as it is more commonly termed, is about as sharp a contrast to New san Diego as could well be imagined. Marion and I had both noticed it--a little white hamlet dozing away in the sunshine--the day we steamed into San Diego bay, and we then and there resolved to explore it at our earliest opportunity. So, the very next day, we took seats in the steam motor at the foot of D street, and fifteen minutes transported us to the dullest, drowsiest, deadest place you could bring your mental faculties to grasp. It reminded me of Goldsmith's "deserted village," and for a long time we did not meet a living soul. Grass grew in the streets; adobe houses in various stages of dilapidation stood about without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>For a moment after the train left us we stood blankly staring about, not knowing whether we stood in the city of the living or the dead. All around us were houses with paneless windows and doorless entrances; cattle walked through these abandoned homes or waylaid us at various points, as we waded through the dust of the sun-scorched lanes. It was a forlorn old place, full of ruins and reminiscences, and as we wandered about in utter solitude, hearing only the footfall of our own steps, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>The house was, probably, in its day, the finest in old San Diego. It inclosed an open court which bore traces of a former fountain, and ornamental shrubbery; there were still standing some fig-trees weighted with their purple fruit, and we were of one mind, that their flavor was most exceeding good. We wandered all about the rooms, most of them doorless and windowless, and filled with accumulations of rubbish, and we wondered, and we pondered, which was <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
049.sgm: room, but we were no wiser when we came out than when we went in. In a very few years this old building will have crumbled into shapelessness, for even now one of the wings is in a state of imminent collapse; the plaster has long since peeled off from the whole building, leaving only the mud brick substance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>National City is the ambitious progeny of San Diego, though it boasts a separate individuality. It has all grown up in the past three years, side by side with San Diego, and it is evident that the two cities will be eventually welded into one. There is swift and frequent communication between the two places by means of a steam motor, and I will say right here that I have experienced nothing so wild and reckless as a ride in this motor train. From the moment the motor leaves the foot of Fifth street it begins describing a series of Dutch rolls and free handed curves that make all my past and most thrilling experiences seem pale. You feel that your life has sunk to a minimum value, that, in fact, all life is as nothing compared with speed, and you tear along at a break-neck pace, curving to right, twisting and turning and doubling to left, without the slightest suggestion of slackening. On the contrary, I think the curves, instead of proving a cheek, tended to redouble the speed and the contortions that motor underwent, bouncing up into the air, lying over on one side, shivering and shaking and spinning, along, were simply diabolical.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>When you get to National City, you look around and ask where the city is.  You don't know whether the fine brick block in the center of a pasture is in National City, or has started a city by itself. The most ardent admirers of this crude metropolis admit that it is much scattered, but its recent rapid growth is or ought to be sufficient apology. It has finer waterworks than San Diego, quite putting this city to the blush, and the fruit that gained the first prize at the World's Exposition at New Orleans, came from Paradise Valley, just back of National.</P>
049.sgm:<P>One may take a great many trips about San Diego, each one as varied as it is sure to be interesting. Marion and I went off on the regular Saturday excursion last week. I believe these excursions have only been instituted a short time; but they have been well patronized. The whole trip, one of sixty miles by rail, stopping at various points of interest, making an all-day trip, is given for one dollar. Col. Dickenson, president of the San Diego Land and Town Company, looked after the general comfort of the crowd, and pointed out the particular points of interest to Kate Field, who formed one of the party. By the way, she has been engaged by the wine producers of California to write up the general harmlessness of California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>Our motor went along at a little more rational pace than is its wont on its daily trips between San Diego and National, but still we flew along, leaving out the fancy flourishes, doubtless from the extra weight of the train.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Our first stopping place was the "Sweetwater dam," the waterworks of National City, only completed last March. It is the highest dam in the United States, and the water spreads out from it like a great lake. We were told that the fifty feet of water which the dam holds had only been lowered a foot and a half the whole summer, and, indeed, we could easily discern the water line and measure with our eye the decrease. It is a great matter of congratulation that these waterworks have been completed, and that it can supply so generously with so little diminution.</P>
049.sgm:<P>At Oneonta we stopped for dinner. The hotel was about the only building worthy of mention. The place has not yet had a boom, and there was nothing to be seen about it but barren mountains and endless wastes, and only a few months ago this was all an unexplored desert. In a few years, I should say months, there is no telling what wonders will be wrought. So on the whole, while it is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>Oil City is composed of a few boards loosely flung over an iron drill, and a hole called by courtesy an oil well; though at a depth of six hundred feet no oil has been struck.</P>
049.sgm:<P>The last place at which our train drew up, that proved by far the most interesting, was Tia Juana, part of which lies in the United States and part in Mexico. As we all trooped across the border we were cautioned not to get tangled up in the lines; several of us stood up on the flat, square monument that marks the dividing line, and far away could be seen the tall white marble monument that marks more majestically the national limits.</P>
049.sgm:<P>As we bent our heads under the flag of Mexico, we found ourselves in an utterly strange and novel environment. Behind us were American frame buildings, the American himself, with all his prosaic, pushing attributes; before us spread the low, white, somnolent adobes, groups of cattle beneath awnings of verdant boughs, and the swarthy Mexican under broad sombrero, booted and spurred, riding like mad on his Mexican mu'stang, with lasso hurled after some recreant beast, or reclining with a <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
049.sgm: air under an arbor of green branches,--a picturesque, posing figure, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:scarlet kerchief hiding the glitter of a dirk, while he indolently quaffed his beloved <HI REND="italics">pulque.</HI>
049.sgm:<P>The place was made up of a series of poor little straggling adobes, and the people were all evidently of the poorest class; but there were on every hand elements of the picturesque. From the poorest, most crumbling, least habitable home pretty dark-eyed Mexican girls in picturesque blues and reds, smiled out upon us, and everywhere were bowers of green, sometimes with a horse tethered beneath, sometimes with groups of dark-visaged senoras in gay gowns tucked up above their well-turned ankles, bending over their washtubs. I think it was one of the prettiest pictures I ever saw--a crowd of these handsome women, in their bright costumes, gossiping and laughing--at us, perhaps--as they leaned over their foaming suds, against the background of a summer sky. Surely an artist might find in such grouping a bit of color to delight his soul.</P>
049.sgm:<P>The-custom house is a low, white, wide-spreading adobe, with a veranda running, the whole length of its front. The interior was dirty and dingy enough, giving one anything but a sense of official dignity. As you enter there is a series of three rooms, the central one forming the entrance to the open court, which in old Spanish homes is more lived in than any portion of the house. This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>I have seen a great many poor little churches, but I have never seen any church so pitifully poor as this Mexican one. In all adobe buildings the crude mud brick is covered with a thin coating of plaster; this church lacks even this bit of convenventional finish, and the only thing that could make one imagine it a church is its pointed roof, and the rough wooden cross on its apex. Its doors and windows are the ordinary doors and windows that you see in any house; the windows have green blinds, and the two doors open directly on the ground. Inside there is no chancel rail, no aisle; the ceiling shows the rough rafters; there were three pews, two benches, some odds and ends of chairs. A strip of worn carpet is spread before the altar.</P>
049.sgm:<P>That the pleasures of Mexican Tia Juana are greater than its pieties is evinced by the pretty, prosperous-looking park close by, where until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>Well, it might have been all a fancy on my part, but I am inclined to think that we all trooped over the borderline with a secret, new-born admiration for the pushing, prosaic, unpicturesque American.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<LB></DIV>
049.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VIII.</HEAD>
049.sgm:<P>THE MOURNFUL MEXICAN CIRCUS--ARKANSAS' RIVAL.</P>
049.sgm:<P>SAN DIEGO, Sept. 22, 1888.</P>
049.sgm:<P>In Los Angeles you are hemmed in by the mountains, in Santa Barbara you are a part of them, but in San Diego they form a dim, distant perspective, pushing as it were the blue bay into the foreground, and the Bay of San Diego forms one of the prettiest of pictures. Over its low, graceful sweep into the land there are always moving dazzling white sails and divers pleasure crafts; no black bulwarks darkening the water's edge, no curling columns of smoke sullying the clearness of the sky; each color stands forth, sharp and clear, cutting itself into the eye like the shining sands and blinding blue of the Orient.</P>
049.sgm:<P>When one drives over the long, level stretches of scorched sage brush that lie between the bay and the distant mountains, with now and then the truncated cone of an extinct volcano, a sphinx and a date-palm are all that is lacking to make the scene Egyptian. You may journey for miles and miles and see no house, no verdure--only interminable, level, thirsty lengths, with a rainless, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>This "back country" of San Diego has become a serious and somewhat sensitive joke. It is not a safe subject to mention. When I first came here, and was, as they would say in Los Angeles, a "tenderfoot," I unguardedly questioned the location and extent of this "back country," but was immediately met by an avalanche of argument. I was smothered in posters and pamphlets, and when, at last, it was my fate to meet a real estate agent, I deemed it expedient to accommodate myself to their formula of faith, which sets forth literally the evidence of things not seen. But that there is a "back country," and a back country that can produce prodigies, is made manifest by the fine display of fruits and vegetables to be seen in the Chamber of Commerce. Here are onions as large as a small head of cabbage, cabbages as large as huge pumpkins, and pumpkins and squashes that weigh one hundred and fifty pounds. Some of the largest fruits and vegetables are grown without a particle of irrigation.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>It is rather singular that it should be reserved for San Diego to boast the largest and perhaps the finest hotel in the world, but such is the case. As the steamer rounds Point Loma and begins describing the crescent curve of San Diego Bay, from the end of the long, narrow peninsula, the red turrets and towers of the Hotel del Coronado stand forth. It is an immense hostelry, prominently poised, and no matter where you are in San Diego, if you look toward the bay you look also upon this huge hotel. It was not a matter of days ere we had explored its wonders. All about the exterior and entrance are beautiful grounds terraced down on one side to the ocean, from the other to the bay. The hotel, which can accommodate fifteen hundred guests and cost $1,250,000, is built about a large, square, open court, filled with flowers and shrubs, fountains and trailing vines, pathways and beguiling benches. It was a spot to loiter in--to be loath to leave. The bright green foliage, the soft sward of grass, the rare roses, the trickling, fountain, the soft sea breeze, the awning of blue sky above--each and every one of these pointed out, at length, separate and cogent reasons why this particular hotel should have been built in this particular spot. The whole hotel is finished in hard wood. On the first floor are the offices, ladies' billiard-room, writing-room, an immense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:dining-room, music-room and ball-room, and a series of reception-rooms. The finest of carpets, furniture, mirrors, bronzes, porcelaines and portieres form the appointments of these latter. Full of exquisite grace and harmony seemed the smallest and most secluded of these many parlors. Lifting rich portieres you discover a room carpeted with something soft and light and velvety, into which your feet sink as in down; the furniture, placed about with careful carelessness, is of white and gold, upholstered in pale blue silk brocade; mirrors and graceful engravings, framed in white and gold, relieve the walls; lace curtains and pale blue hangings fall from the windows that open upon the sea; Dresden figures and a French clock stand upon the mantlepiece; bowls of roses on richly-wrought pedestals are to be seen in corners and alcoves. It is so dainty, so like a picture, so unlike a hotel, that I sat on the very edge of the blue brocaded chair and stared dumbly and doubtfully around me. Everything about the hotel is on the most lavish and luxurious scale. There is nothing lacking to the perfection of this place, save the will to leave it once you are there. Certainly there could be no more visible voluble proof of the ambitious aims of the San Diegans than this right royal hostelry.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>We have made a tour around the bay on the pretty little steamer Roseville. We have gathered the daintiest of sea shells at Pacific Beach, and we have been several times to Tia Juana, the chosen site of the future American Monte Carlo. Once it was to see a Mexican circus, which proved to be rather a serious than a hilarious affair. In a corner of the tent, on a wooden bench, sat the four musicians, devoid of coats, with red silk handkerchiefs tied loosely about their swarthy throats; two pounded away on the dullest of drums, two scraped away on the squeakiest of violins, and all moved with a mechanical unanimity that would have lent luster to a quartette of automatons. There was not a glimmer, not the faintest flicker of consciousness, on their stolid features; they might have been celebrating the last sad funeral rites for aught that their visages revealed to the contrary. The four performers disported, if anything, a more melancholy mien than their musical confreres, and the most unhappy, miserable, misunderstood member of his class was the poor clown, who strove so hard to make his Spanish jokes tell with his American audience, that he had to retire behind the scenes three times to keep his countenance up to the required conventional luminosity. It was all far from inspiring, and when the grand finale proved to be an Apache war dance, and there was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>Tia Juana Hot Springs, about three mile beyond Tia Juana village, are warranted to work miraculous cures for all those rheumatically afflicted. Persons who hobble painfully there are said to throw their crutches to the winds in less than a month and go dancing away--figuratively speaking. The provision for entertainment is very primitive--a rough shanty and a long row of rude, whitewashed bathrooms are all that the Springs boast at present. This is owing, in part, to the natural indolence of the Mexican race, and in part to the fact that the springs are located in a basin disadvantageous for permanent protection. Four year's ago a tolerably well-built hotel was carried away bodily by a water spout, and this has rather put a check upon any extensive building scheme; but now that the American is pushing his energy in this direction, it is believed that Arkansas will have a rival.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>If the accommodations are unaccommodating the springs themselves are not. Each bathroom has a separate spring, ranging in temperature from 102&deg; to 122&deg;, so all you have to do is to select a spring which lies all uncovered at one end of the bathroom, and in a couple of minutes the long bath tub is filled. Between the warmth generated by the spring, and a bath at 104&deg;--which number of degrees I chose, deeming it quite moderate--I was put in a position to appreciate most keenly and realistically the feelings of a boiled leg of mutton, though my face was more suggestive of a certain edible crustacean. These springs are strongly impregnated with sulphur, and are supposed to be kept at their high state of temperature by the fires of extinct volcanoes. Such, at least, is the popular tradition.</P>
049.sgm:<P>As we drove back through Tia Juna village, everything wore a fete day aspect. Yards of red, white and green bunting were being wound around the posts and pillars and cornices of the low white custom-house; row upon row of Chinese lanterns hung like a flaunting fringe from the edges of the long veranda; carts full of fresh green boughs stood about along the one straggling, lazy street; and groups of sombreroed men, between smoking and drinking, were weaving these branches into fresh awnings. We learned that all this was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>San Diego has, perhaps, the finest climate in all California, with the sole exception of Santa Barbara. The weather seems always bright and clear; the sea breeze is always cool, rarely damp; it lacks the cutting winds of Frisco and the occasional fogs of Los Angeles. It has not only a climate that in three years has beguiled thirty thousand tourists into as many enthusiastic citizens; but it has the best harbor after that of San Francisco, ships of the largest dimensions entering without difficulty. Fruits and vegetables grown in San Diego and the vicinity have carried off the prize at every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>But there is one fatal lack in San Diego, and that is its water supply. Water rates are high and the quantity is limited. There are few gardens, hedges, trees, no park save the one small bit of green that is called the Plaza. It is a place devoid of beauty, of symmetry. The yellow graveled streets stare at you unflinchingly, yet the blue bay sparkles like a living thing in the sunshine, and the distant mountains wrap themselves in manifold mists and seek soft vanishing points in the ardent azure. It is a place crude, primitive, contradictory, barren in outlook, yet it calls up visions of tropical beauty. Perhaps it is for this reason that it has such a subtle fascination; for the effete Eastern people, with luxurious homes and many servants to do their bidding, come here and crowd into a three-room cottage, becoming themselves maids of all work, and are not only contented and happy, but under the influences of these blue skies and balmy breezes swear an eternal fealty to this "wild and woolly west." <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>Now that the great flume is near completion it is to be hoped that gardens will spring up, that trees will be planted, that something may be done to beautify and make lovely this spot, favored of the gods.</P>
049.sgm:<P>San Diego has many points of peculiar interest to the tourist. It was the primal point of civilization of the whole Western slope. Here the first mission was established in 1769; the first of that series of twenty-two scattered at intervals of time and space along the California coast, from San Diego to San Francisco. The mission has long been a crumbling ruin, given over to the destruction of the elements; its silver-toned bells have long since rung, out the changes from more modern churches, and all that is visually left of this first love's labor of Father Junipero are a few crumbling stones, fast dropping, one from another.</P>
049.sgm:<P>If any one wishes to understand the history and traditions of this Pacific slope he will make a tour of its many missions. It is a pilgrimage never to be forgotten or regretted, and yet it is infinitely sad. Every bit of broken mound and crumbling headstone seems to raise a cry of pitiful protest, every scroll of Indian handiwork opens the wound of a great wrong. It is said that in this country we have no ruins. We have not the dismantled castles of the Rhine, the historied temples of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>With all the brain and energy and pushing progress of the American, it is still the hands of these old Franciscan fathers which, more than all others, have woven the fascinations of that fabric we call California.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<LB></DIV>
049.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IX.</HEAD>
049.sgm:<P>THE MECCA OF LOS ANGELEAN AMBITION--THE EXPENSIVENESS OF CALIFORNIA LIFE OVERSTATED.</P>
049.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES, Nov. 3, 1888.</P>
049.sgm:<P>It was the <HI REND="italics">City of Puebla</HI>
049.sgm: that was to bear back again to San Pedro. This time it was not a matter of choice, but rather of necessity, as we had bought excursion tickets, and the last day of their limit fell on the very day of the said steamer's sailing. We had hoped to return on the <HI REND="italics">Santa Rosa;</HI>
049.sgm: but a swift comparison of tickets with time-tables proved that there was no affinity between the two. So we became reconciled to what couldn't very well be avoided, and the <HI REND="italics">Santa Rosa,</HI>
049.sgm: with all her splendors, finally passed from our thoughts. But what we did not forget was the awful fact that the <HI REND="italics">City of Puebla,</HI>
049.sgm: that usually genial and accommodating transport, sailed at six a. m. However, we were not to be made a whit the less cheerful by this circumstance, so sending down our baggage the night before, I gave my watch an extra wind and wooed steep at an early hour. Faithfully we rose and robed ourselves by my watch the next morning--leisurely we gathered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>A dreadful quiet brooded over everything. About the doors of the steamship office a few deckhands yawned lazily. One of them eyed our baggage curiously. With a brisk, hurried air I pushed open the door and rushed up to the solitary official.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Where will I find the baggage-room?" I asked, struck by the apparent dearth of passengers.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"Where are you going?" he asked mildly.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"On the <HI REND="italics">City of Puebla"</HI>
049.sgm:<P>"The <HI REND="italics">City of Puebla</HI>
049.sgm:<P>"Sailed!" I echoed, and dropping bags and bundles I sank into the nearest chair, in a completely collapsed condition. Life at that moment did not seem worth living, As for Marion, she pirouetted about in a state of dumb, dizzy despair.</P>
049.sgm:<P>At length I bethought me to look at my chatelain watch. The hands pointed to six. Then I looked at the office clock and saw that it was seven o'clock. The official followed my glance and smiled, not unkindly, rather with a gentle commisseration.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"The baggage!" I gasped, with a new-born agony.</P>
049.sgm:<P>"The baggage has gone on."</P>
049.sgm:<P>"But it isn't checked, and this is the last day we can use our tickets, and what shall we do?" I cried, all in a breath.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>"I will telegraph for your baggage and make your tickets good on the <HI REND="italics">Santa Rosa,</HI>
049.sgm:<P>And so it was, by one of those labyrinthine ways of Providence--or was it the extra winding of that watch?--that what we wanted came to us, and two days later the <HI REND="italics">Santa Rosa</HI>
049.sgm:<P>I wonder what that official thought of my timepiece?</P>
049.sgm:<P>We have been away from Los Angeles little more than a month, and yet the rapid improvements and changes have been Aladdin-like. The post-office has been moved much farther up town, while waiting the completion of its splendid building; fine blocks that we left in process of erection have found finishing touches, and, in many cases, occupants; old stores have been torn down; sidewalks have swept away their obstructions, only to place them farther down the street, I have spent so much time zigzagging my way past mortar troughs and sand heaps that I shall experience a positive pleasure when the streets of Los Angeles will permit me to describe a straight, unbroken line.</P>
049.sgm:<P>With the October days, and the first excursion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>It is wonderful how you can catch the character and instincts of a place by the stray bits of conversation caught on the wing. In San Diego, however far the flight of fancy might wander, you could always count on Los Angeles coming in as a point of comparison. Many a time I have been tempted to stop on the street to listen to these peripatetic expounders. One day I overheard one man say to another, with a laugh and a reverberant slap on the back, "Back country! I should say we had back country--haven't we Los Angeles?" Whatever bit of conversation you catch here, on Spring or Main street, is sure to bear the color and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
049.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
049.sgm:<P>But just here is a very serious point at issue, and one with which the courts are clogged. It is this: Whether a man or woman who has paid nine-tenths of the sum agreed upon and fails upon the last payment can have the whole thing taken away from him or her. It is maintained by the majority that such payments should secure the right of a mortgage, and as the majority are more or less involved, it is an interesting question, the solving of which will lend a decided color to any future boom. I had heard, and it was my own unenlightened impression that California was expensive, that prices were exorbitant and the most ordinary articles hard to obtain. Laboring, under this erroneous idea, I sought to provide against all possible <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>But, <HI REND="italics">revenons a nos moutons.</HI>
049.sgm: I believe Los Angeles to be, in the face of all calumny, the happy hunting ground of the bargain-seeker. There are several large dry goods stores here that have special sale-days, when by watching the papers you can discover your opportunity, and thereby purchase certain articles at, and sometimes below, cost price; and when it comes to fruits and vegetables, no country can equal this in either quantity, quality, or price paid. For five cents you can buy from your Chinaman enough of any one vegetable for a moderate-sized family; for the same sum you can get three or four musk-melons, or an abundance of whatever fruit happens to be in the season. Grapes are a cent and a half and two cents <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>The restaurants here are very reasonable in their prices. I know of no other place where you can get so much for so small a sum. Twenty-five cents will give you a dinner of soup, several kinds of meat, all vegetables in the market, pie, pudding, ice-cream, coffee and always fruit. These dinners are even cheaper when tickets are bought. It is a miracle to me how so much can be given, good service included. It is well-known that Chinamen are the cheapest laundrymen. This fact is so well set forth and supported that the white washer-woman is completely driven out of the field, or, rather, washtub. On the other hand, it is true that white labor, and particularly woman's labor, is exceptionally valued. A first-class female cook <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>So, take it all in all, I am given to ask wherein lies the expensiveness of California? If you pay more for your house, you pay less for your food. If you pay more to her Majesty, the cook, you pay less to his Celestial Highness, the monarch of the washtub. After a little mental calculation, you will find that the scales balance in favor of California; for when all is added and subtracted, there remains over and above the arguments of filthy lucre a delicious climate, a novel environment, a delightfully easy-going manner of existence. The whole system of living in California seems like one never-ending picnic. The houses are like dollhouses, compact and cozy, and the oil stoves furnish refreshments in a twinkling. No one takes house-keeping seriously; no one holds a home permanently; the commercial spirit, if not burning brightly, is fain to flicker, at least, and a couple of odd hundreds will uproot time's ties without a pang.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>The other day we took a trip to the San Pedro winery. The day was like one of those rare days of Indian summer, with a dreamy haze that seemed somehow to temper hard facts and summon back lost illusions. The bright blue of the sky was softened with a faint film; the air was like the touch of soft fingers; the great mountains, wrapped in their weird, misty mantles, seemed filled with a sad, strange gentleness; the sounds of life fell on our car with a muffled, unfamiliar resonance. As we made our way through quiet walnut groves our feet rustled over the dull brown leaves beneath; above our head a bird was singing in wild ecstasy; all about us teemed with a peculiar, personal pathos. It was like surprising some sweet, undreamed secret; like a long, deep look into the unguarded heart of a friend. Here and there we picked up a walnut --some one gave us flowers--we passed great stretches of dismantled vineyards--and at length our loitering steps brought us to the San Pedro vineyards and the San Pedro winery.</P>
049.sgm:<P>We were first plied with all the grapes that we could eat--great brown, luscious bunches; then we watched the manufacture of wine. On the outside of one of the buildings, in a great open bin, the cartloads of grapes are first dumped. A man who is stationed there rakes the grapes into what looks very much like a cane-carrier. This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>The white or Muskat grape makes first, from the sluggish little stream, Angelica and Muscatel; the fruit and drippings of juice going to make an inferior wine. The ordinary red grape makes from the first juice port; from the fruit and drippings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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049.sgm:<P>Brandy, port, sherry, Tokay, Angelica, Muscatel and claret were ranged side by side in the sample room. The taste of new wine, just as it is crushed from the grape, is simply atrocious. This winery manufactures fifteen thousand gallons of wine annually, which the owner, a German, acknowledged to be a moderate manufacture. Tokay wine, made from the flaming Tokay grape, is the rarest and richest of all the wines. Beautiful as amber, it is a nectar fit for the gods.</P>
049.sgm:<P>Our six months' trip together has come to an end. We have realized all our dreams; we have received rare returns, and courtesy and kindness have met us on every hand. The fascination of California has laid strong fingers upon us, and will scarcely loose its hold; but our sight-seeing for a time is over, and life must slip back into somewhat of the conventional groove.</P>
049.sgm:<P>And now I clasp your hand lothfully, lingeringly, and in the words of that old Mexican woman at Santa Barbara, I give you <HI REND="italics">"Adios, adios, adios!"</HI>
051.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-051</TITLE>
051.sgm:<TITLE>The Indians of southern California in 1852; the B.D. Wilson report and a selection of contemporary comment.  Edited by John Walton Caughey: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
051.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
051.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
051.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
051.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
051.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>52-3521</LCCN>
051.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
051.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 69181</COPYRIGHT>
051.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:<P>THE INDIANS OF <LB>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA IN 1852 <HI REND="italics"><LB>The</HI>
051.sgm: B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Report and a Selection of Contemporary Comment</HI>
051.sgm: <LB>Edited by John Walton Caughey</p><P>1952 <LB>HUNTINGTON LIBRARY <LB>SAN MARINO, CALIFORNIA</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1952, BY THE <LB>HENRY E. HUNTINGTON LIBRARY AND ART GALLERY</p><P>PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.<LB>THE PLANTIN PRESS, LOS ANGELES<LB>FIRST EDITION</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">TO LO</HI>
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051.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
051.sgm:<P>INTRODUCTION<HSEP>Page <HI REND="italics">Federal Appointee</HI>
051.sgm:<HSEP>ix <HI REND="italics">The Locale</HI>
051.sgm:<HSEP>xii <HI REND="italics">Indian Backgrounds</HI>
051.sgm:<HSEP>xviii <HI REND="italics">State and Federal Policy</HI>
051.sgm: xxii <HI REND="italics">The Report and its Reception</HI>
051.sgm:<HSEP>xxvi <HI REND="italics">The First Reservation</HI>
051.sgm:<HSEP>xxxi <HI REND="italics">Exhuming the Report</HI>
051.sgm:<HSEP>xxxiii<LB>THE REPORT<HSEP>1<LB>CONTEMPORARY COMMENT<HSEP>71<LB>BIBLIOGRAPHY<HSEP>153</p></DIV>
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051.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
051.sgm:<P>FEDERAL APPOINTEE ON OCTOBER 16, 1852, the editors of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: hailed the appointment of a fellow townsman to federal office.  "The universal expression of satisfaction...," they said, "is the surest evidence that the appointment is a good and proper one," and they went on to predict that it would assure "permanent peace with all those tribes which have, in times past, been so troublesome to the country."</p><P>The office filled was of modest rank: sub-agent for Indian affairs in southern California.  The man appointed--Benjamin Davis Wilson--had already stamped himself as a prominent figure in the community.</p><P>A native of Tennessee and eight years a trapper and trader in New Mexico, Wilson had come to California in 1841 with the Workman-Rowland party, the first group of settlers from the United States to enter by the southern route.  Already familiar with Spanish American customs, he quickly identified himself with the Californians, to whom he soon was "Don Benito."  He married Don&tilde;a Ramona Yorba, acquired land, and turned ranchero.  He earned fame as a bear hunter, incidentally affixing the place name Big Bear Lake, and he also showed a special flair for dealing with the Indians.</p><P>In 1845 at Cahuenga, when the adherents of Micheltorena and Alvarado lined up to battle for the governorship, Don Benito helped avert bloodshed.  After being taken prisoner at the battle of El Chino in 1846, he served again as mediator in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:the resolution of the rebellion of the southern Californians against their American conquerors.  In the stirring events of '48, '49, and '50, he and his fellow southern Californians were essentially by-standers.  They were little disturbed by the persistence of military government, only moderately aroused by the gold rush, and less inclined than those in the north to exult over statehood.  Gold did boom the market for beef and mutton.  Wilson engaged in cattle and sheep drives north, his ranch operations became more profitable, and so did his merchant business in Los Angeles.</p><P>Thus in 1852, at forty-one, besides being a former mayor of Los Angeles and the county clerk, he was one of the older American residents and a leading merchant and landowner.  He can hardly have regarded the post of sub-agent for Indian affairs as a great plum.  In reporting his appointment, therefore, the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: was probably correct in identifying his reason for accepting the office as "a desire to secure peace and justice to the Indians" and "to render to the government of the United States whatsoever service may be in his power."</p><P>On his qualifications for the job there is direct testimony in the form of a thumbnail sketch written a few months later by a close acquaintance, Judge Benjamin Hayes:</p><P>"Mr. Wilson," he wrote, "is an old mountaineer, and a gentleman in every sense of the word.  He is wealthy and independent--and so does not need this office.  His wealth has come to him in a measure suddenly, by the rise of property; after many `hard knocks' in the Rocky Mountains and here, before, during and since the war.  He has been in some little campaigns formerly against portions of these Indians, and knows them, and they know him well.  Before his appointment, their Chiefs visiting the City, habitually came to see and talk with him about their business, as much as if he were their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Agent.  Notoriously he is a favorite with them--no stranger.  His good sense, kindness of heart, knowledge of mountain life, familiarity with all the tribes, and reputation for integrity of purpose are difficult to combine in any one else that may be recommended from this quarter."<ANCHOR ID="ni-1">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-1">Benjamin Hayes to Senator David R. Atchison, January 14, 1853, draft, Hayes Scrapbooks, Bancroft Library, XXXIX, 121 (reproduced below, pp. 82-86).</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>In the course of the following decades Don Benito went on to higher honors and more substantial rewards.  He served on the San Gabriel school board and in the state senate.  He was stockholder and director in southern California's earliest oil, telegraph, and railroad companies and participated in several water development projects.  He was a leading orchardist, vineyardist, and vintner.  Having progressed from stock raising to horticulture, he took up real estate subdividing and promotion.  Still later his fame was enhanced by the phenomenal development of the lands he once owned at Riverside, San Marino, Pasadena, and Westwood, by the astronomical observatory and the television transmitters on Mt. Wilson, and by the distinguished careers of a number of his descendants, notably General George S. Patton.</p><P>Definitive history probably will record the agricultural and business chapters as the most significant in his life work.  Nevertheless, in 1877, when historian Hubert Howe Bancroft asked for a biographical statement, Wilson's one request was that he be remembered as a friend of the Indians and credited with urging their settlement on reservations.<ANCHOR ID="ni-2">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: The plan alluded to is set forth in detail in the report that comprises the body of this volume.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-2">Hubert Howe Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
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051.sgm:<P>THE LOCALE The locale of this report--southern California from the Colorado to the Pacific and from the Mexican border to the southern San Joaquin Valley--is a large area in which all of New England could be contained.  Today it has a great variety of proven resources and a population of five or six millions.  As of 1852 it was an undeveloped and all but empty land.  Its <HI REND="italics">gente de razo&acute;n</HI>
051.sgm:, in free translation its "civilized inhabitants," numbered hardly more than five or six thousand, or one tenth of one per cent of today's census.</p><P>Politically this territory had been organized, somewhat reluctantly, as the southern counties of the newly erected state.  The men of San Francisco and the diggings condescendingly referred to it as the Cow Counties.  And they were right, not merely in terms of the ranchos with their thousands of head of cattle, which were the sinew of the region, but also in terms of the habits and interests of the people, the general backwardness of the economy, and the primitive character of society.  True enough, the talisman of gold had recently shifted the emphasis from hides to beef and was encouraging actual cultivation of the soil.  According to the state census of 1852, Los Angeles County, with less than a fiftieth of the state's population, had a quarter of the cattle, a fifth of the horses, and a twentieth of the cultivated acreage.</p><P>In a land so thoroughly agricultural, it is something of a paradox to find most of the people living in town.  Of course, the Spanish American frontier had stressed agricultural villages rather than single-family farms.  Irrigation likewise meant intensive cultivation of compact tracts rather than the tilling of widely scattered fields.  And cattle raising on the open range, whatever its other merits, did not call for a large labor force constantly spread out over the entire grazing area.  Moreover, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:especially in the case of the more inland ranchos, the exposure to Indian raids from the wilder hinterland encouraged a clustering in the towns, and the general remoteness of the region probably had similar effect.  For these reasons and perhaps others the towns had special importance.</p><P>Near each of the old mission sites there was at least a nucleus of settlement, the most flourishing being San Diego, where the colonization of California had started in 1769, and Santa Barbara, which dated from 1786.  As of 1852, however, the more populous centers were at San Bernardino, where five hundred Latter-day Saints had recently arrived to establish a Mormon outpost, and in the metropolis of the south, with perhaps two thousand souls assembled in the City of the Angels.</p><P>Consisting mainly of single-story adobe buildings straggling out from a central plaza, Los Angeles had the innocent appearance of a little Spanish town.  The speech and dress of most of its people and a good fraction of the social practices also reflected the Spanish and Mexican background.  On a smaller scale it presented many of the characteristics which American visitors found so striking in Santa Fe.</p><P>By 1852, however, Los Angeles' Spanish appearance was somewhat deceiving, for many elements of the local scene had the unmistakable flavor of the United States, or, more distinctively, of the American West.  At times the town was boisterous with freighters and muleskinners from the Salt Lake line.  Its status as a cow town gave it some of the toughness soon to be associated with Abilene and Dodge City.  Its population was also swelled with adventurers from the gold fields and with hard characters who had fled from the vigilantes of San Francisco.</p><P>These newcomers, along with the handful of Anglo-Americans <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:of longer residence, of whom Wilson is an excellent example, were the culture-bearers of the new civilization.  They brought new blood, a new language, new laws, a new basis for land ownership, new social practices, and a new perspective on race relationships.  Under their tutelage southern California was in process of transition from Spanish to American ways.  More precisely, an aggressive American frontier was being superimposed on an older Spanish frontier that had not had time to run its full course.</p><P>Published reminiscences, contemporary letters such as those in the Stearns and Wilson papers at the Huntington Library, and the broken files of the newspapers of the day give a vivid picture of the times.  Politically, the southern Californians were full of complaints.  They did not like the federal act which unsettled practically all land titles and subjected the claimants to long and expensive litigation.  They felt that the national government should do more than it had in the assignment of troops to the region and to improve transportation and mail service.  Displeased with statehood because of the dominance of the north and the heavy burden of real estate taxes, they clamored for state division and the erection of a territorial government in the south.  Economically the region was thoroughly subservient to San Francisco.  The northern part of the state was the sole market for the produce of southern ranchos, farms, and gardens, and the coastal steamers and sailing schooners from San Francisco brought in return the merchandise for local consumers.  They also brought whatever news there was of the outside world.</p><P>Some of the descriptive items found in these various sources have no very profound significance--for example, the comment on the superabundance of dogs in Los Angeles, a newspaperman's difficulties in collecting accounts, or a passing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:craze for bear cubs as pets.  Others prick out the intercultural factor.  In the recreational field, for example, <HI REND="italics">bailes</HI>
051.sgm: (Spanish dances) were the most popular events.  One at Abel Stearns' home, on Washington's Birthday in 1853, led to a riot when uninvited guests tried to join in.  Six weeks later, at the conclusion of Lent, the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: reported "a grand cock-fight...on the Plaza, opposite the Church, made up between Don Pio Pico and Mr. John Powers." Then came a race "between Moore and Brady's horse, John Smith, and Mr. J. Powers' mare, Sarah Jane, for $2,100 a side, which the horse won by about a length.  This was decidedly the prettiest race we have seen in the city.  After the race a game of `shinty' was played between a party of twelve Americans against twelve Californians, on the result of which about $1500 was bet.  That was fine sport.  The men on each side were strong, athletic, nimble fellows, selected expressly for their supposed proficiency in the game, and at the commencement bets were about even...."</p><P>On May 14, 1853, the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: reported further on the recreational activities of the community, this time running true to the form of the American frontier.  "The `Bar'," it reported, "was out in full force last evening, in commemoration of some event or events to our reporter unknown, and perambulated the streets until a late hour, very kindly preventing the citizens from over indulging themselves in a sort of imaginary luxury called sleep, and setting a fine example to Indians and rowdies generally, which we have no doubt they will be quick enough to imitate.  The whole affair ended in a row, in which the only sufferer was our city Marshall, who it is said sustained a dental attack upon the most prominent and one of the most useful and ornamental portions of his face.  His adversary, whoever he was, displayed a most anti-epicurean taste."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>Equally routine as an American frontier item was the <HI REND="italics">Star's</HI>
051.sgm: scornful comment, December 22, 1855, on a new city ordinance prohibiting the discharge of pistols within the city limits.  The council, it said, might as well have outlawed smoking.  Who has not fired a pistol in the streets, it asked, and who has been fined for doing it?</p><P>With such a volatile and unrestrained population, with knives and guns so plentiful, and with the restraining arm of government imperfectly developed, crimes of violence were all too common.  Reminiscence has magnified them to "a murder a day," or "a dead man for breakfast every morning," or to three or four violent deaths per diem, at which rate the Los Angeles population would hardly have lasted the year.  Scanning the papers, and bearing in mind that they were weeklies, one does get the impression that almost every issue had a homicide to report.  The casual treatment of some of these stories suggests that they had almost ceased to be news.  On May 14, 1853, for example, there was a laconic note on an inquest on the body of an Indian found near the zanja with his throat cut.  The verdict is described as "the customary one," perhaps in the phraseology elsewhere recorded, "Death by an unknown hand or by a visitation from God."</p><P>There were spectacular crimes too.  In summer of 1852 two Americans disappeared after being last seen in the company of a certain Doroteo Savaleta, who had subsequently displayed $500 in American gold.  "Travelers are not safe," the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: editorialized on July 24, "until a gang of desperadoes, of which Savaleta is but one, is exterminated."  "We are indebted," the story continued, "for the above particulars to B. D. Wilson, Esq., who has been actively engaged in endeavoring to ascertain the fate of the two Americans alluded to."</p><P>A week later, in a three-column story, the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: told of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:arrest at Santa Barbara of Savaleta and Jesu&acute;s Rivas, their return to Los Angeles, trial by a people's court, and prompt execution atop Fort Moore Hill.  Although a few months earlier the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: had been critical of vigilante justice, it now took lynch law as a matter of course.</p><P>The following November popular resentment mounted still higher over the assassination of the debonair and popular Joshua H. Bean.  A volunteer tribunal swung into action, laid hold of a number of suspects, put them through a grilling, extracted from one a confession of other crimes, and heard explicit charges that Cipriano Sandoval, San Gabriel shoemaker, was the man who had killed Bean.  By the hour set for the executions, three o'clock of a Sunday afternoon, the committee had a third candidate, caught that morning in the act of stabbing a companion.  The three were hanged.  Five years later, the real murderer of Bean made a death-bed confession which established Sandoval's innocence.  A regular court, of course, might have made the same error, but the impetuosity of lynch law puts it in special hazard of mistaking identity or acting upon insufficient evidence.</p><P>These are but two of many vigilante executions at Los Angeles in the fifties.  Quick and severe though punishment had become, it did not seem to prevent crime.  In 1854 the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
051.sgm: reported receipt of a letter from an Angelen&ntilde;o who said it was unsafe to go out after dark.  The <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
051.sgm: had no better cure to suggest than vigilante action such as San Francisco had employed in '51--and would need again in '56--and Los Angeles already had that device going full blast.</p><P>A more perspicacious analysis had been offered by the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
051.sgm: on July 23, 1853.  "Los Angeles County," it observed, "affording as it does temptation, as well as facilities to murderers and robbers, has long been to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Northern California what Texas was formerly to the States--a rendezvous for villains."  The phrase "Gone to Los Angeles" never achieved the full flavor, even locally, that had attached to "Gone to Texas," but by all accounts the analogy drawn by the <HI REND="italics">Alta</HI>
051.sgm: was valid.</p><P>One other fact is underlined in the primary descriptions of southern California in the early fifties, namely, the size and significance of the Indian element.  In this part of the state they were well in the majority and, though far from being the ruling class, they were of substantial importance.</p><P>INDIAN BACKGROUNDS Earliest reports of the southern California Indians depict an affable, hospitable people, most primitive in skills and possessions, but subsisting comfortably on what the land and the sea offered.  To some casual observers the ultra-simplicity looked like miserable poverty.  At the other extreme is some more recent anthropological opinion that it was a good life with plenty of food, much leisure, and a great deal of fun.</p><P>Taken in hand by the Franciscan missionaries late in the eighteenth century, the Indians near the coast began the arduous process of learning the ways of the white man and adjusting to them.  The process was gradual and slow.  It included instruction in the religion and language of Spain.  It called for changes in dress and deportment.  It meant getting used to a different sort of dwelling and to new rules of social relations.  It involved learning how to work at various tasks which the Spaniards regarded as useful: at gardening and stock tending, at the so-called mission industries such as soap making and tile making, at the simpler building trades, and in other forms of skilled or semi-skilled labor.  Although not the most apt pupils that the New World had offered, these Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:traveled a long distance along the mission road.  They picked up many elements of Spanish civilization and got to be culturally far removed from the untutored tribesmen of the mountain and desert interior.</p><P>In the thirties, after the older missions had run about sixty years and the later ones long enough to have primarily a mission-born clientele, secularization was suddenly ordered.  True, the aim of the mission program had been to train the Indians to the point where they could be released from mission discipline and take their place as full-fledged subjects of the Spanish monarch.  In the thirties no one seriously contended that the Californians had come so far.  But there were men who coveted the mission lands and herds, and it was possible to argue that the mission system was an anachronism in the Mexican republic.  Abruptly the Indians were turned loose.  A few may have bettered themselves at once.  A larger number went off to the interior and went native or, in more elaborate expression, reverted to barbarism.  Most of the former mission Indians tarried in the mission area, which after all was their ancestral home.  Ill prepared to manage their own affairs, they took whatever jobs they could get, and many of them lapsed into dissipation and debauchery.</p><P>In mission days the Indians had become accustomed to week-end rations of <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
051.sgm:.  In their independent status the tendency was to place still more emphasis on this custom and some of them carried it to excess.  Drunkenness and fighting, sometimes with fatal result, came to be regular Saturday night behavior in Los Angeles' Nigger Alley, giving the peace officers the routine task of locking up sundry drunks, most of whom were Indians.  In court on Monday morning fines would be assessed, and if, as frequently was the case, the Indians could not pay they would be bound out to an employer to work it off.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>This Los Angeles "slave mart" came in for some criticism in its day and for more bitter condemnation by later writers.  One may extenuate by pointing out that the benevolent Walter Colton, American alcalde at Monterey, had used the same method, and that week by week the Indian auction involved only a small fraction of the total labor force.  Nevertheless, it does betray a callousness about human rights, and of course the real flaw was in encouraging the conditions which produced carousing and drunkenness.</p><P>The southern Californians of the fifties were much more concerned about another aspect of the Indian problem, the habit of bands from the Mojave Desert and beyond to cross the mountains and raid the ranchos.  These Indians killed a few head of cattle, but primarily they were after horses, which were easier to drive away and sweeter to the taste.  Raids of this type had occurred in the Mexican period, and on two such occasions Wilson had led pursuits across the mountains and out upon the desert.</p><P>After the American conquest the marauders became bolder.  In May, 1849, there was a raid on Rancho Azusa.  In June another band swept almost to Los Angeles, picking off a drove of horses with which it headed back toward Cajon Pass.  There Abel Stearns and a volunteer crew overtook the raiders and recovered the horses, killing ten of the Indians and losing two of their own number.</p><P>In January, 1850, Deputy Sheriff A. P. Hodges mustered forty-seven well-armed men to track down another horse-stealing band.  According to Horace Bell, they rode forth bravely, but stopped to fortify themselves with food and drink at every rancho, and on the third day despaired of overtaking their quarry.  But according to Judge Benjamin Hayes, "the state ought to pay the expenses of this volunteer expedition," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:and he forwarded the tab to a member of the state legislature, which was just starting its first session.</p><P>A year later raiders from the desert ran off the entire horse herd from Jose&acute; Mari&acute;a Lugo's rancho, some seventy-five head.  This time pursuit was more rapid.  The thieves were overtaken about 100 miles beyond Cajon Pass, but the pursuers were fifteen against fifty.  They found the Indians on the alert and well armed, and after losing one man in the first fusillade they were forced to turn back emptyhanded.</p><P>Another danger spot was at Four Creeks in the southern San Joaquin Valley, near present-day Visalia.  In 1851 Henry Dalton and a Captain Dorsey from San Jose lost men and horses and cattle as they were trailing beeves to the northern market.  The next year a trail herd of 2,000 head of cattle was run off and several vaqueros were killed.  Meanwhile, raids on the exposed ranchos continued.  Indeed, the editor of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: in 1855, in casting up accounts on losses from San Diego to San Luis Obispo, put the 1849-53 total at not less than $300,000 in horses alone.</p><P>Whether or not his figure was actuarially sound, these raids were not merely a nuisance, but a serious threat to the prosperity and security of southern California.  Furthermore, there was always the possibility that the condition would get worse.  If the Indians nearer the coast--the central figures in Wilson's report--should adopt the hostility of those farther inland, the danger and the damage could be ever so much greater.</p><P>In December, 1851, just such an outbreak seemed to be in the making.  Led by Antonio Garra&acute;, of the Warner's Ranch district, the Indians of the southern mountain area took up arms, plundered Warner's Ranch, and threatened to kill all the whites in southern California.  The Mormons at San Bernardino hurriedly erected a stockade.  Los Angeles sent out a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:posse under Joshua Bean.  But it was Juan Antonio, the Cahuilla chief, who quelled the uprising.  He took Garra&acute; into custody and turned him over to Bean.  At San Diego there was the formality of a trial and Garra&acute;, still obdurate, was executed.  This insurrection had, for the whites, a happy ending, but it was a forceful reminder of the precariousness of life on this Indian frontier.</p><P>STATE AND FEDERAL POLICY Since in American practice Indian affairs have been more the function of the state than of the local unit, it was natural that the California state government, when it began to operate, in the winter of 1849-50, should pay some attention to the problem.  To say that the state adopted an Indian policy would exaggerate, but it did set in motion a program that was simple, direct, and vigorous.</p><P>The opinion then current among Californians, most of whom were not in contact with the southern California Indians of the following report, was that destiny had awarded California to the Americans to develop, that the aborigines were no asset to the state, and that wherever they interfered with progress they should be pushed aside.  The state proceeded to implement this opinion by authorizing military campaigns against Indians alleged to have committed depredations and by accepting the bills for such work as a charge against the state treasury.</p><P>The result was one of the most disgraceful chapters in the entire history of the state.  Armed bands took the field against the Indians on an almost completely indiscriminate basis.  A whole series of Indian "wars" ensued, though, as Bancroft sagely observed, there was not a respectable one in the lot.  Instead they featured wholesale butchery and seemed to aim <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:at complete liquidation of the Indians.  The following oratorical outburst, which Horace Bell intended as hyperbole, is in fact a reasonably accurate statement of the code that then prevailed.  "We will let those rascally redskins know that they have no longer to deal with the Spaniard or the Mexican, but with the invincible race of American backwoodsmen, which has driven the savage from Plymouth Rock to the Rocky Mountains, and has headed him off here on the western shore of the continent, and will drive him back to meet his kindred fleeing westward, all to be drowned in the great Salt Lake."<ANCHOR ID="ni-3">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-3">Horace Bell, <HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of a Ranger</HI>
051.sgm:<P>The brunt of this attack fell farther north, but there were southern repercussions.  There was, for example, a campaign against the Yumas late in 1850.  Its occasion was the killing of eleven Colorado River ferrymen, headed by John Glanton.  In Los Angeles Glanton and his associates were regarded as cutthroats and robbers and there was no enthusiasm about avenging them.  But by recruiting newly arrived emigrants, Joseph R. Morehead got together 125 men, descended on the Yumas, and killed a score of them.  The expense account, sometimes cited as the main consequence, ran to $76,588.</p><P>Meanwhile, the federal government, normally the main reliance in Indian matters, extended a faltering hand toward California.  The distance was great, and the information about the region was none too reliable.  Expansion to the Pacific had come suddenly, and the Indian office operated under laws designed for a much smaller West.  In part because appointments were political there was a rapid turnover in the personnel assigned to California, and relatively few showed aptitude for the work.  The outrageous prices of the gold rush inflation made it difficult to finance the program adequately, and this circumstance led some of the agents into most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:unbusinesslike dealings.  Yet the main handicap probably was that there was a basic disagreement between federal intentions and the wishes of the majority of Californians.</p><P>As early as April, 1847, General S. W. Kearny, in his capacity as military governor, appointed Indian agents for three districts: north of San Francisco Bay, the Central Valley, and southern California.  Since the problem was not acute the agents did little.  The next year Mexico ceded the entire area to the United States in a treaty that came to be interpreted, most unfortunately, as an absolute dispossession of the California Indians.  In 1849 a State Department emissary, Thomas Butler King, urged attention to the problem.  That same year, under the newly created Department of the Interior, a California Indian agent was appointed, a certain John Wilson, no kin of B. D.  He was assigned to "Salt Lake City, California," which turned out not to be in the state after all.  At the same time, Adam Johnston was named sub-agent for the Sacramento-San Joaquin Valley.  His first report, dated January 31, 1850, dealt with the plight of the former mission Indians and their need for an assignment of land.  Then he went to the Central Valley and undertook to do something for the Indians there.</p><P>Late in 1850, with a $50,000 appropriation as backing, the Indian Office sent three commissioner-agents to California with specific instructions to negotiate treaties assigning specific tracts to the various California tribes.</p><P>Reaching California early in 1851, the three commissioners were soon at work negotiating treaties.  At first they worked as a team, going with military escort, supplies, and presents to the eastern margin of the San Joaquin Valley, where on March 19 they concluded a treaty with six tribes or bands of "Mountain and Mercede Indians" and on April 19 with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:another sixteen tribes or bands.  Then they decided to split up, Redick McKee moving into the northern part of the state, O. M. Wozencraft continuing in the middle district, and George W. Barbour taking the south.  Within a year they had negotiated eighteen treaties embracing 139 tribes or bands, promising annuities of beef, blankets, and other supplies, and in the aggregate setting aside 7,488,000 acres, or about a fourteenth of the total area of the state, as permanent domicile for these Indians.  With insignificant exceptions the lands involved had no white occupants or claimants and were regarded by the commissioners as relatively worthless.  Most of the tracts were on the floor of the Central Valley, before long to prove fabulously productive.</p><P>The work of the commissioners aroused a great clamor.  The Department of the Interior was displeased that on a budget of $50,000 they had purchased and contracted to the tune of $716,394.79.  Some claims were paid; others were protested.  The eighteen treaties were submitted to the Senate.  Deluged with protests from California citizens, mindful of the opposition of the California delegation in the Congress, and influenced no doubt by the thought that much of this land might prove to be gold-bearing, the Senate refused all eighteen treaties.  Belatedly, in 1944, the United States Court of Claims awarded some five million dollars as compensation to the California Indians for losses suffered through the nonfulfillment of these treaties.  The money was later appropriated and impounded for ultimate use in a manner or manners still to be determined.</p><P>It was in this setting of confused plans, in the fall of 1852, that Edward F. Beale came to California as the newly appointed superintendent of Indian affairs.  A veteran officer in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:the Navy, companion of Kit Carson in the hazardous exploit of going through the Californian lines to get help for Kearny's dragoons after the battle of San Pascual, and courier with the first California gold delivered to the capital in Washington, Beale was a man of parts.  He was more intent on achieving tangible benefits for his Indian wards than any of his predecessors had been.  It was he who chose Wilson as sub-agent for southern California, and it was at his request that this report on the Indians of the area was written.</p><P>THE REPORT AND ITS RECEPTION Even the most casual reading of the report discloses a far more polished style than characterizes Wilson's other writings.  Since the report survives in the form in which it was printed in 1868 in the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, it is possible of course that the editor at that time regularized the spelling and punctuation and elevated the rhetoric.  The differences, however, extend further. The vocabulary is considerably more elaborate and learned than Wilson customarily used, and the periods are often much more oratorical.  There also are passages that suggest the legal mind at work and others which would have come more naturally from a devout Roman Catholic.  The indications thus are that Wilson had assistance.</p><P>An entry under date of January 1, 1853, in Benjamin Hayes' diary makes this much more explicit.  "In the afternoon," this entry reads, "finished the map to accompany the report of Indian Agent (Benj. D. Wilson).  Mr. Wilson, in this matter, is acting with a spirit of philanthropy most honorable to him.  This Report is of date December 26, 1852, prepared by me, at his instance, from information derived from Don Juan Bandini, Hon. J. J. Warner, and Hugo Reid, Esq.  One copy for the Superintendent, Lt. E. Beale; with the other, Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Wilson goes to the Legislature, now in session, to obtain their co-operation in his plans for the Old Mission Indians." <ANCHOR ID="ni-4">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-4">Marjorie Tisdale Wolcott, ed., <HI REND="italics">Pioneer Notes from the Diaries of Judge Benjamin Hayes</HI>
051.sgm:<P>The phrase, "prepared by me," might signify merely that Hayes was a one-man committee on style, smoothing the rough places in Wilson's draft.  In the context, however, it seems to mean much more.  Its assertion really is that Hayes actually composed the report and that he thereby qualifies as Los Angeles' first ghost writer.  Several things about him point up the possibility that he could have done it.</p><P>A Missourian, Hayes set out for California as a forty-niner.  He was so long en route that he did not get to Los Angeles until early 1850.  He began practice of law at once and in the 1852 election was chosen first district judge for southern California.  He continued on the bench through 1864.  Along with the dispensing of justice he combined many other activities.  He was an inveterate correspondent to the newspapers and often a contributor of editorials.  For the whole period of his residence in southern California, from 1850 to 1877, he kept a careful meteorological record.  He was also a self-appointed archivist of local history.  By personal observation and by questioning older residents he gathered information about the region's past and when manuscript or printed materials came his way he preserved them.  He thus was a treasure trove for Hubert Howe Bancroft when that collector-historian cast his net in the southern part of the state.  Hayes, in fact, turned over his collection to Bancroft and became his agent in transcribing the official records of Los Angeles.  It was with some bias then, but not with complete inaccuracy, that Bancroft said of Hayes that, however creditable his career as a jurist, he "performed for his country, for the world, for posterity, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:work beside which sitting upon a judicial bench and deciding cases was no more than catching flies."<ANCHOR ID="ni-5">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-5">Hubert Howe Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">Literary Industries</HI>
051.sgm:<P>As a close personal friend of Wilson's, as a lawyer and a Roman Catholic, by reason of his genuine concern for the Indians, by reason of his penchant for local history and antiquarianism, and particularly by reason of his well known propensity for writing, Hayes was the logical person for the desk work involved in formulating this long and elaborate report.</p><P>If he did ghost write it, an added fillip is given Hayes' enthusiastic endorsement of the document, a fortnight later, in a letter to his old friend, David R. Atchison, United States Senator from Missouri.  "Let me beg you," he wrote, "to notice the Report of the Indian agent for this District, Benjamin D. Wilson, Esq. I am acquainted, of my own knowledge, with nearly all the facts stated by him....I have given no little attention to the subject--more I suspect, than any other resident here, unless I expect Mr. Wilson."<ANCHOR ID="ni-6">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-6">Hayes to Atchison, January 14, 1853, loc. cit.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>All of which, however, is not to say that Wilson's name is improperly attached to the report.  At the time and ever since, it has been known as his.  Hayes' diary makes passing reference to it as Wilson's in the entry for January 5, 1853.  Wilson's intimate knowledge of the Indians far transcended Hayes'.  He was vitally concerned about their welfare and thoroughly believed in the solution proposed in the report.  It may well have been his in conception, and he certainly made it his in execution.  Therefore, whether Hayes was editorial consultant or ghost writer, there is an abiding justification for referring to the document as the Wilson report.</p><P>In appraising the Indian problem of southern California, the report saw two factors involved.  One was the matter of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:guarding against raids upon the ranchos and settlements.  The other was to rescue the former mission Indians from the deterioration into which they had been plunged and to help them toward self-sufficiency and greater civic usefulness.</p><P>Reviewing recent practices, the report noted that there had been heavy dependence on military campaigns which were strictly punitive, and on the handing out of presents, most generously to the Indians who had caused the most trouble.  Both devices had been expensive and neither had proved effective.  The interests of the peaceable Indians meanwhile had been almost entirely neglected.  Opposed to spasmodic military ventures as extravagant and to indiscriminate present-giving as demoralizing, the report looked elsewhere for a solution.  The genius of its proposal was that through one device it would tackle the problem of curbing hostilities and the problem of regenerating the former mission Indians.</p><P>The device, the reservation system, was not a Wilsonian invention.  The famous program of removing the eastern Indians to a permanent Indian territory west of the Mississippi had employed elements of the scheme.  The California treaty-makers of 1851 were also working toward concentrating the Indians on assigned tracts.  Beale had endorsed this program before coming to California.  His plan involved not merely the assembling of the Indians on these reserves, but also their practical instruction in farming, blacksmithing, and other manual arts.  This, in fact, was a feature of United States Indian policy dating back to the nation's first years.</p><P>What Wilson was in position to add came from his personal knowledge of the Indians of southern California.  The report stressed the progress they had made as neophytes at the missions and their nostalgia for those good old days.  On this point it probably exaggerated.  But there was confidence that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:life on a constructively programmed reservation could be made attractive and rewarding and that the more practical features of the old mission system could be revived.  The missions had been self-supporting, even prosperous.  There was no reason why reservations could not do as well.  As contrasted to the debits for Indian wars and presents, the funds laid out for reservation development should have the character of investments.</p><P>In essence, Wilson's report, besides describing the local Indian scene, amplified the project of establishing reservations and invoked California history of the Spanish period as a justification of the plan.  In addition, it could point out that since white settlement was almost entirely confined to the coastal plain and its tributary valleys, the land lay open for the reservation experiment.</p><P>Not long after its submission, the report came to the attention of the editors of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:.  They noted, on January 15, 1853, that "it suggests a plan for the future government of the Indians, strictly philanthropic, and which, if carried out cannot fail to benefit a people once more than half civilized, but now exhibiting such signs of retrogression and decay as must be deplored by every humane heart."</p><P>"The report," the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: continued, "contains a vast fund of information, and the publication of it will be an important addition to the cause of science.  The views of Mr. Wilson touching the management of the Indians become important at this time, when the whole course of Legislation seems tending toward the extermination of the Indian race.  If the government of the United States desires the preservation of the Indians, some system must be adopted similar to that proposed by Mr. Wilson.  It could be put into operation here most effectually, for the tribes hereabout have a vivid recollection <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:of the `good old days' of the Missions, and they desire now, more than ever before, the protection and care of their white neighbors."</p><P>Benjamin Hayes also endorsed the proposal.  To Senator Atchison of Missouri he wrote on January 14, 1853, "This Report ought to be printed by Congress and circulated generally in this State and elsewhere.  It presents the true plan for managing these Indians.  And the boldness with which he asserts the legal right of the Mission Indians to their property, in the face of the <HI REND="italics">speculators</HI>
051.sgm: in Mission titles, some of them otherwise his bosom friends, might immortalize some men, even of greater ability and in a higher station."</p><P>THE FIRST RESERVATION Beale, of course, was already persuaded that the program was advisable.  Although the treaties that might have permitted a start had been rejected, he proposed a series of military posts which might be used as Indian refuges--reservations in all but title.  The association of military post and Indian reservation was not ideal, but it seemed to be the only way to get approval for the latter.  Beale's urging of a $500,000 appropriation fell on deaf ears.  Early in 1853, however, he went to Washington and on March 3 had the pleasure of seeing Congress authorize as many as five military reservations in California at which Indians might be assembled, with $250,000 appropriated for the purpose.</p><P>Returning overland to California, Beale set to work in the early fall of 1853 to get the pilot reservation established.  He and Wilson held several parleys with the Indians of the Tejon Pass region.  Not all were persuaded to adopt reservation life, but others were brought from as far away as the Mother Lode region, and by the following February Beale could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:report 2,500 Indians in the mission-like community over which he presided.  They had planted 2,000 acres in wheat, 500 in barley, and 150 in corn, and were at work on ditches to irrigate and enclose their fields.  The first crop was reported at 42,000 bushels of wheat and 10,000 of barley.  According to Beale's glowing description, the Tejon, or Sebastian, reservation was such a success that other groups of Indians were eager to move in and enjoy the same privileges.  He hoped to enlarge the Tejon and to develop other sites.</p><P>In the summer of 1854, however, Beale was suddenly removed from office.  There were charges that his financial accounts were not in order and insinuations, subsequently disproved, that he had been guilty of peculations.  His immediate successor continued the Tejon reservation and established others in northern California.  He in turn was charged with misuse of funds, apparently on valid grounds.  Other superintendents followed in rapid succession, few of them as much interested in the welfare of the Indians as in turning a profit, and under their control the reservations steadily worsened.  Before long it was evident that the fine results that Wilson had envisioned and that Beale found almost within his grasp were not going to be achieved.</p><P>As early as 1858 J. Ross Browne was ready to condemn the system out of hand.  Commissioned to inspect the Indian work in California, he visited the Mendocino reservation and submitted an adverse report.  His findings were also made public in 1861 in an ironic, trenchant, mordant paper for <HI REND="italics">Harper's Magazine</HI>
051.sgm:.  He defined the reservation as a place "where a very large amount of money was annually expended in feeding white men and starving Indians" and "where a gratifying scene might be witnessed, at no remote period, of big and little Diggers holding forth from every stump in support of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:the presiding administration."  Referring specifically to California he concluded that in a brief period of six years the Indians had been nearly destroyed by the generosity of government.  They were suffering, he said, for "the great cause of civilization, which, in the natural course of things, must exterminate Indians."</p><P>Throughout California Indian numbers rapidly declined.  In the south, the area they occupied dwindled to a small fraction of the vast estate described by Wilson in 1852.  Where they retained occupancy of a small tract, more often than not it was with imperfect title.  At the turn of the century, with increasing white pressure for their lands, the southern California tribesmen needed a new champion in Charles F. Lummis and his Sequoyah League to assure them a modicum of justice.</p><P>In general American practice, however, the reservation system caught on.  It became the key device for federal administration of Indian affairs.</p><P>EXHUMING THE REPORT After the first flurry of attention from Beale, Hayes, and the editors of the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, Wilson's report fell into the limbo of things forgotten.  In 1868 it was rescued temporarily through publication in ten installments in the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, July 18-September 19.  A complete run of the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: has not been preserved, but the Bancroft Library file includes these particular issues, and Benjamin Hayes' busy scissors also clipped it for his scrapbooks, later consigned to the Bancroft collection.  A number of modern researchers have cited the serialized report, but it is a safe supposition that very few persons have read it through since the time of its newspaper appearance.</p><P>At the time of that printing, on August 1, 1868, an editorial <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:in the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: opined that the document was interesting, not only as it concerned "the aboriginal races of Southern California," but more especially "in a historical point of view, as showing the condition of the country in the early days treated of."</p><P>At this much later date other elements of value can be seen.  For example, the report sheds much light on the qualities and character of B. D. Wilson.  He was one of the more appealing of the American pioneers, significant in his own right, and something of a type in southern California's period of transition from Spanish to American ways.  The report is a contribution toward the biography of Wilson that someday will be written, and perhaps toward that of Benjamin Hayes.</p><P>In mid-twentieth century, too, a more responsive note can be counted on for the analysis of the region's Indians, their past experiences, their problems, and the proffered solution.  The document will be recognized as having value both to those whose interest is in the Indian as an anthropological specimen and to those whose primary concern is in the study of American Indian policy.</p><P>Nevertheless, the chief reason for turning to the report today may be, as it was in 1868, its usefulness "in a historical point of view, as showing the condition of the country in the early days treated of."</p><P>Here the document is allowed to speak for itself, with only a minimum of editorial annotation.  To it is added a group of comments on Indian affairs in southern California in the period of the report.  They have been gleaned from the early press and from other fugitive sources.  Some relate to Indian behavior in Los Angeles, some to hostilities committed, some to the reservation system, some to Wilson's report.  They illustrate further the problems to which his report was addressed and suggest what its effects were and what they might have been.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>THE INDIANS OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA IN 1852</p></DIV>
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051.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE REPORT</HEAD>
051.sgm:<P>SIR: IN COMPLIANCE with your request, of date 19th ult., I proceed to give you my views upon the policy most proper to be adopted by the General Government towards the Southern Indians of California.  Of them I can speak more confidently than of those in other parts of the State.  With suitable modifications, the same policy may be found applicable to all.</p><P>At present, I must necessarily confine myself to the Indians living on the borders of, or within the district of country embracing the counties of Tulare (in part), Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and San Diego;<ANCHOR ID="n1-7">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: and, particularly, to that portion of them who have been for a great many years in more immediate contact with the influences of civilization.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-7">By process of division these counties have multiplied and now comprise Tulare, Kings, Inyo, Kern, Santa Barbara, Ventura, Los Angeles, San Bernardino, Orange, Riverside, San Diego, and Imperial.  See Owen C. Coy, <HI REND="italics">California County Boundaries: A Study of the Division of the State into Counties and the Subsequent Changes in Their Boundaries</HI>
051.sgm:<P>The Indians thus deserving particular notice are the Tularen&tilde;os, Cahuillas, San Luisen&tilde;os, and Dieguin&tilde;os.<ANCHOR ID="n1-8">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: All of these were attached to the Missions, more or less.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-8">Scientific designation of these groups is more complex.  See Alfred L. Kroeber, <HI REND="italics">Handbook of the Indians of California</HI>
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051.sgm:<P>The Yumas and Mojaves, who also belong to this district, were never much under mission influence--if at all, as nations--but must be noticed before I conclude.  There are no other tribes of much importance, in the present connection.</p><P>These six nations (so to call them) inhabit a territory between latitudes 32&deg; 30' and 35&deg; (or thereabouts,) with an area of about 45,000 square miles.  Two-thirds of it is mountain and desert, and not one-half of the rest offers any very strong inducements to attract a dense white population of agriculturists.  There are the advantages neither of wood nor of soil and water to tempt American settlers in large numbers farther than sixty or seventy miles from the ocean, even in the most favored county of Los Angeles.  Beyond that limit--with the southern line of the State, the rivers Colorado and Mohave, and a line drawn from the last-mentioned river to the Four Creeks (in Tulare county) for its southern, eastern, and northern boundaries--the Government might provide all these Indians with a permanent home.</p><P>In such a location under a just system, there is no reason to apprehend an undue pressure of white population upon them, either from the east or the west--at all events, not during the present century.<ANCHOR ID="n1-9">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-9">Superficially it appears that Wilson grossly underestimated the population increase in store for this section of California.  Irrigation, mining, mountain and desert resorts, and a network of rail and highway transportation routes have given this region an importance that he did not foresee, but its population is still sparse.  As of 1900 there had been very little settlement of this interior region.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>This is a vital point gained for them, and it removes at the outset one of the principal difficulties which the Government has elsewhere encountered in dealing with Indians.  I place it here in the foreground, and have, indeed, expressed myself too cautiously in reference to a territory which needs but a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:glance to know its desolation, compared with the pleasant vales and fertile plains so many of them enjoyed only a few years gone by, along the more level coast.</p><P>There, through a distance of 300 miles from San Diego to Santa Ynes, nine parent Missions, and twice as many subordinate establishments were founded, beginning in 1769 and flourished until about 1834, at this date having some fifteen thousand of these people under their protection,<ANCHOR ID="n1-10">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: and pursuing a successful course of tuition in the arts of civilized life and the duties of morality and religion.  In the fall of the Missions--accomplished by private cupidity and political ambition, which too often have wielded the destinies of the poor aborigines--philanthropy laments the failure of one of the grandest experiments ever made for the elevation of this unfortunate race.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-10">The southern missions were the more populous, but 15,000 neophytes is the total for all California in 1834.  Hubert Howe Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
051.sgm: (7 vols., San Francisco, 1884-1890), III, 356; Sherburne F. Cook, <HI REND="italics">The Conflict between the California Indian and White Civilization</HI>
051.sgm:<P>It is now the province of our own Government to check the downward career of these children of the Missions, and put them anew in the broad road they followed to happiness, and convey to their brethren who never yet have felt them a taste of the comforts and blessings of civilization.  If some one of its various plans of a wise beneficence can be here adapted to their capacity and condition, and the character, pursuits, and prospects of the neighboring white population, of which I entertain no doubt, we may look for the most glorious results, at a day not so remote as to discourage the present exertions of all good men.</p><P>There are some general facts proper to be stated in regard to each nation, before venturing upon any specific <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:recommendations for their management; and strong features of resemblance between them, in their actual condition, which must be carefully kept in view, when we come to judge of the feasibility of such recommendations.  I will give the result of my limited experience with them, or of reliable information, with a desire to do them strict justice, and a hope that I may contribute somewhat to their future advancement.</p><P>The late Hugo Reid, Esq., a resident here of twenty years, an accomplished scholar, and whose opportunities of knowing the Indians perhaps exceeded those of any other person in the State, wrote some valuable notes and essays upon the languages of the Indians, their ancient customs, and connection with the missions.<ANCHOR ID="n1-11">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: In his death they have lost a zealous friend, who might have been eminently useful to them at this time.  He was of opinion (and so it is generally thought in the country) that the Indians of the South are much more civilized than those in the north, and require an entirely different management.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-11">Hugo Reid came to California in 1832.  He married Victoria, a daughter of a Gabrielino chief, settled near San Gabriel, and became a prominent citizen in this area.  To the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, beginning with the issue of February 21, 1852, he contributed a series of letters on the Indians of Los Angeles County.  Several times reprinted, they are most conveniently available in a separate volume edited by Arthur M. Ellis (Los Angeles, 1926), and as an appendix to Susanna Bryant Dakin, <HI REND="italics">A Scotch Paisano: Hugo Reid's Life in California</HI>
051.sgm:, 1832-1852, <HI REND="italics">Derived from His Correspondence</HI>
051.sgm:<P>I. TULAREN&tilde;OS The Tularen&tilde;os live in the mountain wilderness of the Four Creeks, Porsiuncula (or Kern's or Current) river<ANCHOR ID="n1-12">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: and the Tejon, and wander thence towards the headwaters of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Mojave and the neighborhood of the Cahuillas.  Their present common name belongs to the Spanish and Mexican times, and is derived from the word <HI REND="italics">tulare</HI>
051.sgm: (a swamp with flags).  They were formerly attached to the Missions of Santa Ynes, Santa Barbara, La Purissima, and San Buenaventura, in Santa Barbara county, and San Fernando, in Los Angeles county.  They are all of one family: there is very little difference in the languages spoken by the several rancherias (villages).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-12">Kern River, so named after Edward M. Kern of the Fre&acute;mont expedition, who almost drowned in it, had been christened Ri&acute;o de San Felipe by Father Garce&acute;s in 1776 and relabeled Porciu&acute;ncula by Father Zalvidea in 1806.  A better known Porciu&acute;ncula is the Los Angeles River.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>According to the State census, just completed, there remain 606 Indians "domesticated" in Santa Barbara county--males, 324; females 282; males and females over twenty-one years of age, 364; all, probably, claiming affiliation with the Tularen&tilde;os.  From the same source, we learn that in Tulare county there are 5,800 domesticated Indians (males), and females, 2,600--over twenty-one years of age, 3,787; under twenty-one years, 4,613--the white inhabitants of this county numbering only 174.</p><P>They speak the Santa Ynes tongue.  In all, 2,000 might be brought at first within the plan I will propose hereafter--to be divided into two pueblos (towns).</p><P>There is but one "Mexican claim" upon their land--at the Tejon, of Messrs. Ignacio del Valle and Jose Antonio Aguirre, to eleven square leagues;<ANCHOR ID="n1-13">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: at least, I have no knowledge of any other.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-13">Helen S. Giffen and Arthur Woodward, <HI REND="italics">The Story of El Tejon</HI>
051.sgm:<P>From the Mohave to the Tejon the distance is about 130 miles; from Los Angeles, 90; from Santa Barbara (say) 70.  From the Tejon to Porsiuncula river, 25 miles; and thence to the Four Creeks, 75 miles.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>With greater natural resources than the Cahuillas, San Luisen&tilde;os, and Dieguin&tilde;os, yet they often descend upon the ranchos (farms) of Los Angeles and Santa Barbara, carrying back droves of horses, chiefly for food.  Sometimes they are caught and shot, or hung, on the spot, as happened in last July to one of their <HI REND="italics">capitanes</HI>
051.sgm: (chiefs); but the same night his men drove off all the horses of a valuable rancho, and in fact, entirely ruined it, for it is not easy to repair the loss of sixty or a hundred horses fit to drive cattle (the loss, I believe, on that occasion).  The people suffer severely from this quarter, in the loss of all kinds of stock; and without redress, as these mountain fastnesses almost defy pursuit.<ANCHOR ID="n1-14">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-14">For accounts of such depredations see pages 90-97, 146 of this work; Hayes Scrapbooks, Bancroft Library; Robert G. Cleland, <HI REND="italics">The Cattle on a Thousand Hills</HI>
051.sgm: (San Marino, 1941), 90-97; George William Beattie and Helen Pruitt Beattie, <HI REND="italics">Heritage of the Valley</HI>
051.sgm: (Pasadena, 1939), <HI REND="italics">passim</HI>
051.sgm:.</NOTE><P>The main southern emigrant route to the San Joaquin passes through this nation; and it is the principal thoroughfare of our rancheros and the upper country drovers during a great part of the year.<ANCHOR ID="n1-15">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: Their exposure to depredations, in their passage, and even to massacre, is familiar to the Government, in some events of the past two years.  In one instance, a citizen of this country, who had been compelled to make an unusual delay at or near the Four Creeks, had a thousand head of cattle taken by the Indians, all of which he lost.<ANCHOR ID="n1-16">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: It must be understood, however, that they were then excited to a temporary outbreak--fatal to too many citizens! by Indians who had fled from the north in consequence of the wars there waged against them by the State Government.  With the exception of their frequent forays into the farming country of our lower coast and an occasional restiveness they show along the emigrant and traveled route, they get along peacefully of late.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-15">The real basis of southern California prosperity in this period was the delivery of beef to San Francisco and the diggings.  One route led through Tejon Pass and the San Joaquin Valley, another by Santa Barbara and the Salinas Valley.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-16">Presumably a trail herd belonging to Henry Dalton.  Its loss is described in Lewis Granger to Abel Stearns, Los Angeles, February 4, 1851, Stearns Papers, Huntington Library.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>But these are serious evils, and prove that they demand strict attention, and a respectable military force stationed somewhere between the Tejon and Four Creeks, to keep them in order; even if it be thought that they cannot yet participate in plans that would be expedient with the other nations, an opinion to which I cannot assent.</p><P>Under judicious treatment, they will not exhibit fewer of the better qualities of human nature than their neighbors whether Cahuillas, San Luisen&tilde;os, or Dieguin&tilde;os.</p><P>II. CAHUILLAS The Cahuillas<ANCHOR ID="n1-17">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: are a little to the north of the San Luisen&tilde;os, occupying the mountain ridges and intervening valleys to the east and southeast of Mount San Bernardino, down toward the Mojave river and the desert that borders the river Colorado--the nation of the Mojaves living between them and these rivers.  I am unable, just now, to give the number and names of all their villages.  San Gorgonio, San Jacinto, Coyote, are among those best known, though others even nearer the desert, are more populous.  Agua Caliente was latterly a mixture of Cahuillas and San Luisen&tilde;os--the connecting link between the two nations, as San Ysidro is considered to be between the former and the Dieguin&tilde;os.  The last chief (proper) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:of Agua Caliente, named Antonio Garra, is said to have been a Yuma by birth, educated at the Mission of San Luis Rey, for he could read and write.  His appearance was not that of a Yuma, but there would be nothing strange in finding him "a man of power" among the Cahuillas or San Luisen&tilde;os.  The village of San Felipe, about fifteen miles from Agua Caliente, and always recognized as one of the Dieguin&tilde;o nation, still claims to be closely related to, or a branch of, the Yumas; it uses, however, the Dieguin&tilde;o language.<ANCHOR ID="n1-18">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: Agua Caliente, on the whole, may rather be considered as out of the domain of the Cahuillas, since its chief was shot and the village destroyed, about a year ago.  I will speak of it, in another connection, hereafter, as it is of some consequence to these Indians.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-17">On the Cahuillas, in addition to Kroeber's <HI REND="italics">Handbook</HI>
051.sgm:, see David P. Barrows, <HI REND="italics">The Ethno-Botany of the Coahuilla Indians of Southern California</HI>
051.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-18">The Yuman and Dieguin&tilde;o languages belong to the same family.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>The Cahuilla chiefs, and many of the people, speak Spanish.  Many still claim to be "Christians;" the majority of them are not, while the reverse is the case with the San Luisen&tilde;os and Dieguin&tilde;os.  A great part of the <HI REND="italics">neophytes</HI>
051.sgm: of San Gabriel, the wealthiest of the Missions, were Cahuillas.  Their name means "master," in our language, or, as some of them render it, "the great nation."  Their entire number now scarcely exceeds 3,000 souls.</p><P>San Gabriel Mission possessed a valuable establishment on the present rancho of San Bernardino,<ANCHOR ID="n1-19">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: the ruined walls of which, and rows of lofty cottonwoods, with the olives, and traces of zanjas and fields, remain to attest the noble plans which the Fathers formed for the benefit of this people.  A large number of them had been gathered here between the years 1825 and 1834.  In the latter year it was destroyed by the unconverted, and the last tie severed that bound them to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:their spiritual conquerors.  In the end it might have proved the golden chain of charity, drawing them to a loftier sphere of moral and intellectual existence.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-19">Established as an <HI REND="italics">asistencia</HI>
051.sgm: in 1819.  Beattie, <HI REND="italics">Heritage of the Valley</HI>
051.sgm:<P>Sometime afterwards, Juan Antonio (whose soubriquet is "General") removed to and kept his village on this rancho, until its purchase last year by a Mormon settlement.<ANCHOR ID="n1-20">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: He then went fifteen miles further back into the mountains, to San Gorgonio, another old dependency of San Gabriel, leaving the Mormons in quiet possession of almost a principality capable of sustaining a working population of 50,000 souls.  They employ and cultivate the kindliest relations with all the Indians, and I am happy to state, never permit ardent spirits to be sold or given to them.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-20">On the Mormons at San Bernardino consult Hallock F. Raup, <HI REND="italics">San Bernardino, California: Settlement and Growth of a Pass-Site City</HI>
051.sgm: (Berkeley, 1940), and Beattie, <HI REND="italics">Heritage of the Valley</HI>
051.sgm:<P>At San Gorgonio the Indians are brought into contact with Mr. Pauline Weaver,<ANCHOR ID="n1-21">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: who claims to have a Mexican title, but, notoriously, without any regular, written grant.  The heirs of Jose&acute; Antonio Estudillo claim the rancho of San Jacinto, the site of another of their villages.  The first claims three square leagues; the last eleven square leagues, more or less.<ANCHOR ID="n1-22">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: Both were minor Mission establishments.  They are about eighty miles from the city of Los Angeles.  In Mt. San Bernardino there is a single mill-site, claimed by Mr. Luis Vignes,<ANCHOR ID="n1-23">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: as lessee of the Mexican Government for five years, I believe; now occupied in his name by Mr. Daniel Sexton.<ANCHOR ID="n1-24">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-21">A mountaineer, guide, and prospector of some fame.  He and Isaac Williams had petitioned the Mexican authorities in 1845 for title to this former mission rancho.  Beattie, <HI REND="italics">Heritage of the Valley</HI>
051.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-22">Approximately 13,000 and 50,000 acres.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-23">Vignes is better known as a pioneer vintner.  His mill gave the name to Mill Creek Canyon.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-24">A Californian since 1841.</NOTE>
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051.sgm:<P>The Cahuillas have not had a head-chief, I believe, since the death of the one they called "Razon" (White).  He died within two or three years past, at an advanced age.  They gave him his name, as they told me, from his always acting so much like a white man, in staying at home and tending his fields and flocks, for he had both.  When a young man, he went off to Sonora (under what circumstances, is not known), and returned a farmer--which is all the early history we have of him.  He was always a quiet, good, industrious man, and rendered material service to the authorities, in arresting the half-civilized Indian outlaws who have sometimes fled with stolen horses to the mesquit wilds of his village.  Cabezon, too, is a good old Indian chief, as also another named Juan Bautista.</p><P>Juan Antonio, however, has a more conspicuous figure among them, by a sort of iron energy which he often displays, and is better known to the whites.  A passing comment upon some of his acts may not be out of place, as they touch the present subject.</p><P>In the summer of 1851, the local authorities deemed it expedient to conciliate him with a hundred dollars' worth of cloth, hats, and handkerchiefs--not beads--paid for out of the County Treasury.  This present seems to have been the winding up of the following incident.  A while before, he had killed eleven Americans, who were accused of robbing the aforesaid rancho of San Bernardino, where he then had his village.  He claimed to be justified by an order of a Justice of the Peace, one of the proprietors of the rancho, whose house, it was alleged, the Americans were rifling at the time of the Indian attack.<ANCHOR ID="n1-25">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: A perfect uproar ensued in the county, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:the Indians fled to the mountains, not, however, without offering battle to a company of fifty volunteers then stationed near the scene, who were equally anxious to punish the massacre of their countrymen in this unauthorized manner.  The exertions of their commanding officer, the late Major General J. H. Bean, restrained them (not without difficulty), and thus prevented a general war, which must have proved for a time disastrous to the settlements.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-25">For description of Juan Antonio's campaign against John Irving and his gang of San Francisco and Sydney outlaws, as well as the subsequent repercussions, see Beattie, <HI REND="italics">Heritage of the Valley</HI>
051.sgm:, 84-89; <HI REND="italics">History of San Bernardino County</HI>
051.sgm: (San Francisco, Wallace W. Elliott and Company, 1883), 77-79; Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:<P>Such a precedent is too dangerous for repetition.  Doubtless, the Indians thought they were only acting in obedience to the authorities, it having been the custom, in the Mexican times, to employ them in services of this kind; and, I have reason to believe, something like it has been done recently in killing two Sonoranians, undoubtedly horse thieves.  The necessity for correcting their ideas on this subject, is evident.  I mean, of course, that they ought never to be allowed to meddle with the punishment of whites for public offences.</p><P>Juan Antonio gained a less perilous celebrity, in the winter of 1851, for his successful strategem in capturing the Antonio Garra before mentioned, and putting an end to his conspiracy for the general massacre of the American inhabitants along the coast.<ANCHOR ID="n1-26">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: This gave rise to a treaty of peace.<ANCHOR ID="n1-27">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: Permit me to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:observe that this document means something or nothing--in the latter case, is worse than idle.  The Indians, in their own unsophisticated logic, have ascribed <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
051.sgm: effect to it.  On the part of the State, it is at least a <HI REND="italics">guarantee of their title</HI>
051.sgm: to a very large territory.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-26">Antonio Garra&acute;, chief of the Cahuillas at Warner's Ranch, plotted a general Indian uprising which alarmed all southern California.  San Diego mustered every able-bodied man in an emergency army, the Mormons at San Bernardino stockaded themselves, and Los Angeles put in the field a ranger company under Joshua H. Bean.  It was Juan Antonio, however, who went down with twenty-five of his warriors and arrested Garra&acute;.  See Beattie, <HI REND="italics">Heritage of the Valley</HI>
051.sgm:, 184-89; Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-27">A treaty of peace, amity, and friendship, executed by General J. H. Bean, and reported in the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:<P>Like a "treaty" made since,<ANCHOR ID="n1-28">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: purporting to be with a larger number of the same and other Indians, and aiming at a wider scope of operations (and not yet fulfilled), it may have given them the most erroneous notions of themselves, and of their true relations to the people and the Government.  Vanity may do them awhile, but anon they will clamor for the promised <HI REND="italics">beef</HI>
051.sgm:!  Seriously, there should be no tampering with these, nor any Indians, by promises of high sound, that cannot be executed to the letter.  This last mentioned appears to have been hurried through in a spirit of wild speculation, wholly regardless of the interests either of the Government or the Indians.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-28">Negotiated by O. M. Wozencraft, one of the federal Indian commissioners, with the Cahuillas, and the Indians of Agua Caliente, Temecula, and elsewhere.  It set up an Indian territory about thirty miles by forty, between San Gorgonio and Warner's Ranch.  Along with some seventeen other treaties with California Indians this one failed of ratification in the United States Senate.  For the text see 32 Cong., I sess., <HI REND="italics">Message from the President of the United States, Communicating Eighteen Treaties Made with the Indians of California</HI>
051.sgm:<P>These very "treaties" and some of the incidents alluded to above, furnish weighty reasons for infusing a new vigor into the national policy in this quarter, that shall go right to the root of the evil under which whites and Indians alike are now suffering.</p><P>[It may not be improper here to digress from the main object of the report, to insert a note which we find attached to the manuscript as an appendix, referring to a letter of the late Hugo Reid:]<ANCHOR ID="n1-29">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-29">Note by the editor of the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
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051.sgm:<P>Soon after the settlement of San Antonio, the establishment of San Gabriel was determined on, and missionaries with soldiers were dispatched from San Diego for that purpose.  The following is the miraculous account given of this expedition by Father Palou:</p><P>"On the 10th of August, the Father Friar Pedro Cambon, and Father Angel Somera, guarded by ten soldiers, with the muleteers and beasts requisite to carry the necessaries, set out from San Diego, and traveled northerly by the same route as the former expedition for Monterey had gone.  After proceeding about forty leagues, they arrived at the river Temblores; and while they were in the act of examining the ground in order to fix a proper place for the mission, a multitude of Indians, all armed and headed by two captains, presented themselves, setting up horrid yells, and seeming determined to oppose the establishment of the mission.  The Fathers, fearing that war would ensue, took out a piece of cloth with the image of our Lady de los Dolores, and held it up to the view of the barbarians.  This was no sooner done than the whole were quiet, being subdued by the sight of this most precious image; and throwing on the ground their bows and arrows, the two captains came running with great haste to lay the beads which they brought about their necks at the feet of the sovereign queen, as a proof of their entire regard; manifesting at the same time that they wished to be at peace with us.  They then informed the whole of the neighborhood of what had taken place; and the people in large numbers, men, women, and children, soon came to see the holy virgin, bringing food, which they put before her, thinking she required to eat, as others.  In this manner the gentiles of the mission of San Gabriel were so entirely changed that they frequented the establishment without reserve, and hardly knew how much to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:manifest their pleasure that the Spaniards had come to settle in their country.  Under these favorable auspices, the Fathers proceeded to found the mission with the accustomed ceremonies, and celebrated the first mass under a tree on the nativity of the Virgin, the eighth of September, 1771."<ANCHOR ID="n1-30">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-30">Translated from Francisco Palou, <HI REND="italics">Relacio&acute;n histo&acute;rica de la vida y aposto&acute;licas tareas del venerable padre fray Juni&acute;pero Serra</HI>
051.sgm:<P>Mr. Reid's view of the conversion at San Gabriel is "as related by the old Indians."  Even in the mountains, and far on the sandy deserts of California, I have observed Indians cross themselves and appear to say their prayers at night, when they could not know that the eye of man was upon them.  How far their theological knowledge goes, it is difficult to tell.  The simple Fathers seem to have thought that there was a profound philosophy, and nearly all of religion, in that sublime idea, "Love God"--" <HI REND="italics">Amara&acute; Dios</HI>
051.sgm:."</p><P>There may have been a degree of force used with some refractory village, but if we are to understand the text to mean that this was general, the "old Indians," who gave Mr. Reid his information have a very different version from that of historical narratives left to us.</p><P>The second San Diego mission was destroyed, and one of the Fathers killed, by the wild Indians, in 1775, instigated by two renegade neophytes.  The Viceroy only seconded the wishes of the founder (Junipero Serra) when he ordered the ringleaders to be released without punishment, and the Indians to be treated with even greater kindness and condescension; this being the most proper way "to pacificate their minds and reduce the neighboring gentiles."<ANCHOR ID="n1-31">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: The good Junipero ascribed it all to their want of knowledge and " <HI REND="italics">el influjo del</HI>
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051.sgm:<HI REND="italics">infernal enemigo</HI>
051.sgm:."  It was re-founded about two years afterwards, with the aid of twelve soldiers, "to the great pleasure of the Indians, the neophytes working with much joy," etc.  There seems to have been this charge of "force" among some of the wild rancherias, because sixty had been baptized in a single day.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-31">This quotation and those that follow are from Palou, <HI REND="italics">Relacio&acute;n histo&acute;rica</HI>
051.sgm:<P>The same year (1777) with ten soldiers and a corporal, and neophytes from San Gabriel, Junipero built up San Juan Capistrano.  "As an interpreter from San Gabriel enabled him at once to explain his object in coming to live among them, which was to teach them the road to heaven, make them Christians that they might be saved, etc., so well did they understand and become impressed, that the natives here instantly began to ask for baptism; whilst those of the other missions molested the Fathers for something to eat and other presents, these of San Juan Capistrano molested them for baptism, of their own accord lengthening out the hours of instruction."</p><P>An image of the Virgin--not the musket--first moved the Gabrielenos!  And they were "so changed by the sight of it, that, in their frequent visits to the Fathers, they did not know how to prove their content that the latter had become neighbors on their lands; the gentiles cut the greater part of the wood for and helped to build the houses, whence the Fathers hoped for a happy result, and that from that moment they would not refuse the sweet yoke of the evangelical law."  There were only sixteen soldiers here.  The rash act of one of them disturbed this harmony for awhile, but the efforts of the Fathers "with all suavity to draw to them" the Indians, soon banished the memory of the soldier's wrong, and they "began to present their children for baptism."</p><P>In 1784 this mission had 1,019 converts, San Diego 1,060, and San Juan 472; and all the missions, at the same date <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:(August 28th) had 5,080, and on the last day of said year, 6,736.  I quote from the "Life of Father Junipero Serra,"<ANCHOR ID="n1-32">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: published at Mexico, 1787, which is full of touching passages illustrative of the mild and inoffensive character of the aboriginal Californians, and not less of the unaffected piety of the adventurous missionaries who sought honestly, all will admit, even if they did not completely effect, their conversion.  San Diego, San Juan, and San Gabriel, in 1784, had a majority of all the neophytes.  San Buenaventura was then just founded, with perhaps a hundred neophytes; the rest of the southern missions were established afterwards.  It was the boast of the eulogists of Junipero, that he left at his death, in the last mentioned year, after fifteen years of labor, six settlements of Spaniards established in California,<ANCHOR ID="n1-33">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: and nine purely of native neophytes.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-32">A want ad for this volume, by "a gentleman who is preparing a history of California from the earliest date," ran for several months in the latter part of 1852 in the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-33">The presidios of San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco, and the pueblos of San Jose and Los Angeles.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>III. SAN LUISEN&tilde;OS AND DIEGUIN&tilde;OS For the purposes of this report, the San Luisen&tilde;os and Dieguin&tilde;os may be considered as one nation, understanding and speaking habitually each other's language, having both been more generally christianized than the other nations and more intimately connected with the whites.  They are a large majority of the laborers, mechanics, and servants of San Diego and Los Angeles counties.  Obviously, their present distinctive names are derived from their respective missions, namely San Luis Rey and San Diego.  Nearly all speak the Spanish language, and some of the chiefs read and write it.  The two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:nations together are estimated at 5,000 souls, a majority of whom are within the limits of this State.</p><P>The villages of the San Luisen&tilde;os are in a section of country adjacent to the Cahuillas, between forty and seventy miles in the mountainous interior from San Diego; they are known as Las Floras, Santa Margarita, San Luis Rey Mission, Wahoma, Pala, Temecula, Alhuanga (two villages), La Joya, Potrero, and Bruno's and Pedro's villages within five or six miles of Agua Caliente; they are all in San Diego county.</p><P>The villages of the Dieguin&tilde;os, wherever they live separately, are a little further to the south.  Indeed, under this appellation, they extend a hundred miles into Lower California, in about an equal state of civilization, and thence are scattered through the Tecate Valley, over the entire desert on the west side of New River.  Far on the east side, among the dreary sandhills that form the barrier there [are] the wilder Yumas.  Until very lately the Dieguin&tilde;os have suffered much from the hostility of a populous and warlike village called Yacum, near the mouth of the river Colorado.  They are thought to be diminishing in numbers more rapidly than the other nations.</p><P>Their villages (known to me) are San Dieguito (about 20 souls), San Diego Mission (20), San Pasqual (75), Camajal (two villages, 100), Santa Ysabel (100), San Jose (100), Matahuay (75), Lorenzo (30), San Felipe (100), Cajon (40), Cuyamaca (50), Valle de los Viejos (50).  These numbers are given from information believed to be correct.</p><P>Pablo Assis, Chief of Temecula, claims one and a half leagues at that place, under a written grant; and a claim to the rancho of Temecula is preferred by Mr. Louis Vignes.  Eight other of their village sites are claimed by different persons--San Jose, if I mistake not, by two opposite "claims," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:that of Mr. J. J. Warner, and Portilla, amounting to four square leagues.  The claim of Mr. Vignes, at Temecula, amounts to eight square leagues.  Agua Caliente is also claimed by Mr. J. J. Warner.</p><P>From the city of Los Angeles to Temecula is 80 miles; thence to Agua Caliente, 35 miles.</p><P>The languages of the Dieguin&tilde;os and Yumas bear a strong analogy to each other, if, indeed, they are not one and the same language.  The opinion of Don Juan Bandini, whose opportunities of knowing them have been ample, is that their language is the same.</p><P>GENERAL OBSERVATIONS Associated with the Cahuillas may sometimes be found the Serranos; and the Indians of San Juan Capistrano with the San Luisen&tilde;os.  I am not prepared to say that the two former are not the same people, to all intents and purposes, at this day.  Mr. Reid has located the Serranos along the upper waters of the Santa Ana river, and between the Los Angeles county Indians (whom he calls Gabrielinos) and the Cahuillas.  Some of the Serrano women are good seamstresses.  The Indians of San Juan--the finest of the south in appearance, temper, and intellect--are now nearly extinct, from intermarriage with the Spaniards and other more usual causes of Indian decay.  Very few of the Gabrielinos are to be met with here now.  "A few," says Mr. Reid, "are to be found at San Fernando, San Gabriel, and Los Angeles.  Those in service on ranchos are a mere handful.  You will find at present more of them in the county of Monterey than in this, excluding the three places named above.  Death has been busy among them for years past, and very few more are wanting, to extinguish the lamp which God lighted.  The Indians from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:northwest coast killed great numbers, years ago, on the islands" (San Clemente and Santa Catalina).<ANCHOR ID="n1-34">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-34"><HI REND="italics">The Indians of Los Angeles County</HI>
051.sgm:<P>The three or four prominent nations that remain, as above described, have different languages and a different physical appearance, in some respects.  How far the Cahuilla and San Luisen&tilde;o tongues resemble each other, is a subject worthy of investigation; and Mr. Reid would no doubt have thrown much light upon it, if he had lived to carry out his inquiries.  The Tularen&tilde;os, Cahuillas, and San Luisen&tilde;os are universally understood to have distinct original languages; but their common knowledge of the Spanish tongue forms their usual means of communication.  The use of the last has tended to make them forget the original language.  Individuals of the same nation, as a habit, talk with each other in Spanish, seemingly, in preference to the native tongue; often, of course, it must be from necessity, in the poverty of the native tongue, or having forgotten it.</p><P>"The languages of San Luis Rey and San Juan Capistrano bear a strong analogy."  I quote a manuscript of Mr. Reid's, which I am kindly permitted to use.  "When we come to San Buenaventura, Santa Barbara, San Ynes, and La Purissima, we find not only a distinct language, but a strongly marked difference in their color and physical appearance, the southern Indians being red, while the others here mentioned are a very dark hue, stronger set in their limbs, although less powerful and very diminutive in stature.  Some of the young Indian girls about San Gabriel and San Fernando are of a pleasing countenance, well-formed features, and, in many cases, of a light complexion, which is not caused by admixture of blood.  Females to the north are of coarse features, and even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:blacker than the men.  I have been acquainted with the lodges up and down the coast for years and never recollect of seeing a fair skinned female, without the blood had been mixed.  This has arisen, no doubt, from their living principally on the sea-coast.  Arriving as high as Monterey, we again find the Indians of the same color and appearance as those in Los Angeles and San Diego, but with another distinct language.  In the San Gabriel language there is a total absence `l'--it abounds in the Santa Ynes."<ANCHOR ID="n1-35">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-35">For other writings by the same author see the Reid Manuscripts, Los Angeles County Museum.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>In Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and San Diego counties, there are nearly 7,000 Indians, excluding the Yumas and Mojaves, and few petty tribes.  Not half as many as the neophytes alone left by the Mission!  Still, more than half of those we have are the survivors of the Missions.</p><P>That they are corrupt, and becoming more so every day, no candid man can dispute.  They do not always find better examples to imitate now than they saw in the past generation of whites; for the latter have not improved in the social virtues as fast as the Indians have declined.  What marvel that eighteen years of neglect, misrule, oppression, slavery, and injustice, and every opportunity and temptation to gratify their natural vices withal, should have given them a fatal tendency downward to the very lowest degradation!</p><P>Not to dwell further upon whatever differences a people so situated may have in appearance or language, let us follow up, rather, the circumstances and analogies that may lead them to accommodate themselves to some common system of Governmental benevolence.</p><P>These will more fully appear from a view of the actual condition in which we find them, as domesticated laborers and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:servants, as land proprietors, or in their mountain villages--in their individual and national capacity.  I am not certain that the word "domesticated" does not apply to all of them, with a certain degree of propriety; certainly, it may be so applied to the great mass of the Dieguin&tilde;os, San Luisen&tilde;os Cahuillas, and of the Tularen&tilde;os coming within the scope of my objects in the present report.</p><P>THE LABORERS AND SERVANTS The Indian laborers and servants are "domesticated;" mix with us daily and hourly; and, with all their faults, appear to be a necessary part of the domestic economy.  They are almost the only house or farm servants we have.  The San Luisen&tilde;o is the most sprightly, skillful, and handy; the Cahuilla plodding, but strong, and very useful with instruction and watching.</p><P>When at work, they will do without ardent spirits, but <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
051.sgm: have it on Saturday night and Sunday.  Very little of the money earned during the week goes for meat and bread--their chief want with it is for drink and cards.<ANCHOR ID="n1-36">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: They are universal gamblers, and inveterately addicted to the vice; consequently, their clothing continually changes hands.  Yet, I have met with some who do not drink, and have an aspiration to decency.  Some, again, are idle and vagabonds; but I have rarely found them unwilling to work, when well paid.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-36">The week-end craving for strong drink had been acquired since the coming of the whites; the addition to gambling dated back to the days before the Spaniards.  Kroeber, <HI REND="italics">Handbook</HI>
051.sgm:<P>If it be true that they cannot do half the work a white man can, 'tis equally true that custom at best never allows them more than half the wages of the latter, and, generally, much less than half.  The common pay of Indian farm hands is from eight to ten dollars per month; and one dollar per day the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:highest in the towns--but few pay so much.  No white man here, whether American, Sonoranian, or Californian, will work for such wages, nor anything like it.</p><P>That better wages merely would make the Indian here a better man, is doubtful.  With more money, he would only pursue his evil tastes to greater excess.  When their weekly <HI REND="italics">juegos</HI>
051.sgm: (plays) were restrained by the magistrates, and only allowed at distant intervals they were much better off; and then, too, liquor shops were not so common.  In some streets of this little city, almost every other house is a grog-shop for Indians.  They have, indeed, become sadly deteriorated, within the last two years; and it may be long, very long, before a sound public opinion will speak like the potent voice of the Mission Fathers.</p><P>But, let us remember, these same Indians built all the houses in the country, and planted all the fields and vineyards.  There is hardly any sort of ordinary work for which they do not show a good-will.</p><P>Under the Missions, they were masons, carpenters, plasterers, soap-makers, tanners, shoemakers, blacksmiths, millers, bakers, cooks, brick-makers, carters and cart-makers, weavers and spinners, saddlers, shepherds, agriculturists, horticulturists, vin&tilde;eros, vaqueros--in a word, filled all the laborious occupations known to civilized society.  Their work must have been rudely executed sometimes, it may well be supposed; and they have forgotten much they once knew.  But they acquired the rudiments of a practical knowledge which has outlived their good teachers, and contributed much to the little improvement this section of country has reached in eighteen years.</p><P>They are inferior only to the American in bodily strength, and might soon rank with the best Californian and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Sonoranian in all the arts necessary to their physical comfort.  They teach the American, even, how to make an adobe (sun-dried brick), mix the <HI REND="italics">lodo</HI>
051.sgm: (mud mortar), put on the <HI REND="italics">brea</HI>
051.sgm: (pitch) for roof--all these, recondite arts to the new beginner, yet very important to be known, when there are no other building materials.  They understand the mysteries of irrigation, the planting season, and the harvest.  Poor unfortunates! they seldom have farms of their own to till, or a dwelling to shelter them from the rain!</p><P>Such is the laborer and servant, of no matter what nation.  A spendthrift, but willing to work, if paid; never a beggar, save when old age or infirmity has overtaken him; humble, without servility; skilled in a great many useful things; yet full of vices, I am afraid, because he has so few encouragements to virtue.  He always adheres to the truth, cost what it may; still, many are petty thieves.</p><P>The women have not forgotten their needlework, as may be noticed at any time; they dress in the common Spanish style of this country, and always make their own garments.  Like the men, they are much addicted to intemperance; hearty, good humored creatures, yet with a great aversion to regular work.  I refer to those about the towns.</p><P>As a general thing, the women are quick to learn the various household duties.  There are striking examples of Indian women, married to foreigners and native Californians, exemplary wives and mothers.</p><P>IV. A HASTY GLANCE AT THE LAND PROPRIETORS At the close of the late Mexican war, some of the old Mission Indians remained in possession of tracts of land, which they had held for a long time by occupancy and license of the Fathers, or under written grants from the Mexican Government.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Some have since sold out, for trivial considerations--others have been elbowed off by white neighbors; so that, in the settled and settling parts of the country, there are not now fifty Indian land proprietors.  They are awaiting the adjudication of the Commissioners of Land Titles.  A league is the largest tract any of them claim; in general, their tracts do not exceed fifty or a hundred acres.</p><P>Many of them are good citizens, in all respects, except the right to vote and be witnesses in the State courts, where others than their own race are concerned.  They are anxious to hold on to their little homesteads, and resist all offers to buy as steadily as they can.  How long their limited shrewdness can match the over-reaching cupidity that ever assails them, is difficult to say.  They lack thrift and prudent management, and are strongly inclining to dissolute habits; though they plant regularly from year to year.  Some have a small stock of horses, cows, and sheep.</p><P>A better crop and more commodious hut--perhaps, a table and chair or two--may distinguish them from the denizens of the mountain village.  Everything else is quite after the Indian fashion.  Still, with these, and the right to land, and honest conduct, they have made a broad step towards civilization.</p><P>Were they in villages, and had they <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
051.sgm: the powerful hand of Government to guide and protect them, their example might do some good; as it is, they serve in no way to benefit their race, while there is too much danger that, with all their bright promise, they may be drawn themselves in the vortex that swallows up the hopes of their brethren who hire out on the farms or crowd around the cities.</p><P>They now have a little capital, which might be turned to account by a faithful trustee or true guardian.  Speculation, lawsuits, fraud, and force will soon wring it from their open hands, in all probability.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>To the Missions they can never go again, with hope of finding a home.  The successors of the Fathers are there, for a priest is stationed at all except two, I believe.  Any Sunday, a few Indians may still be seen near the altar, summoned by the chimes that once pealed over a smiling multitude gathered for worship, or the harmless diversions wherein their happy hours passed away.  These are all, and they seem serious and reverent at the church.  The rest linger there in their straggling huts of brush or tule, trying to get a meagre subsistence out of the small patches not yet taken up by the whites--ill-clothed, in filth and wretchedness, without food half the year, save what is stolen.  If there be "savages" among these southern Indians, a Mission is now the place to seek them, where riot and debauchery reign supreme.  This is notorious to good citizens who have settled around them, but the violence of the reckless and unprincipled bids defiance to restraint, at present.  I am not certain that some of the Indians do not preserve a sort of vague belief that these immense buildings, to our eye greatly dilapidated and fast going to ruin, yet, with their rude repairs, ample enough for their accommodation, are ultimately to be restored to them.  It is no exaggertion to repeat that the Indians lurking about the Missions, with an occasional exception, are the worst in the country, morally speaking; and the sooner they are removed, the better for all concerned.</p><P>Within the last two years, the Indians have had a very perceptible tendency towards returning permanently to a mountain life, in spite of its forbidding aspect.<ANCHOR ID="n1-37">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-37">A contributor to the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:<P>They began by deserting the larger ranchos for the freer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:indulgences of the city and the grog-shops at the Missions, where they could have their famous and favorite <HI REND="italics">juegos</HI>
051.sgm:.  The complaint had been universal on this subject.  Many have thus become habitual drinkers, who used to be content with their allowances upon the ranchos--for custom has always allowed them ardent spirits, from which lamentable practice not even the Missions can be excepted.  Yet the wonder is, with some, how these Indians have become such drunkards!  The laws of nature have had their course, as usual, and the Indian is paying the penalty exacted of all who violate them.</p><P>Unfitted--many of them--for hard work, by drinking and their games, (they have been known to die from the violent exertions required by some of these,)<ANCHOR ID="n1-38">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: ashamed or afraid to go back to their old <HI REND="italics">amos</HI>
051.sgm: (masters), uncared for by strangers, in some way taught to dislike <HI REND="italics">los Americanos</HI>
051.sgm:, and restive under all the neglect they suffer; having caught the idea that they are free, (three years ago they were practically slaves,) with none to teach them the true hopes and duties of freemen, and finding, with the long experiment, that American freedom does not profit them--some such motives, I suppose, may drive them to enjoy the old and kindred associations of their tribe, where they are sure to meet a warm friendship and a hospitality generous in its extremest poverty.  Hospitality I know to be one of their virtues.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-38">Their all-night sessions at <HI REND="italics">peon</HI>
051.sgm:<P>On the other hand, as the young men of the mountains grow up, the cravings of hunger, or a love of novelty, carry them to the towns in quest of employment, or to gratify curiosity.  They soon fall into the bad ways of their "Christian" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:relations, and return a little worse for the visit.  If they have chanced, in their "rounds," to have met with the marshal and jailor, or their Indian "deputies," (alcaldes, in common parlance,) they could have fared better anywhere else in the wide world; and well may they return disgusted with their prospects in civilized life, if they are capable of thinking at all.  The Indian has a quick sense of injustice; he can comprehend it when it is plain and very brutal.  He can never see why he is sold out to service and indefinite period for intemperance, while the white man goes unpunished for the same thing, and the very richest, or best men, to his eye, are such as tempt him to drink, and sometimes will pay him for his labor in no other way.  I am speaking now frankly of abuses which actually exist--not the fair result of the State law, which is a pretty good one, in regard to this point, but cannot be enforced, for the simple reason that the Indians themselves are not allowed to be witnesses as to breaches of it, except for or against each other.</p><P>The abuses of the law have been cruel and injurious to the Indian, in every country, and at all times; how nearly fatal to him in California!</p><P>Let us follow them, then, to</p><P>THE MOUNTAIN VILLAGES. The best of them, much as they have mixed with the whites, or may know of labor and property, yet love to visit and revisit the rancherias.  Tradition preserves a remembrance of things they delight to tell of; Christianity has been far from extinguishing their ancient superstitions and customs.  Let a "Christian" set his mind upon seeing his <HI REND="italics">parientes</HI>
051.sgm: (relations) at Temecula or San Gorgonio, no friendship, nor work undone, nor reasonable sum of money, will keep him with you.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>In the wilder mountain villages they lead pretty much the same course of life their fathers did eighty years ago, when the Spanish soldier first trampled their grass fields and flower beds.  On the coast, however, the supply of food must have been more plentiful, as the sea afforded so many varieties of fish; but since, they have learned to cultivate wheat.</p><P>Their present country may be described as a series of low mountain ridges, a few peaks covered with snow in winter, having numerous valleys, generally small but very fertile, which little streams irrigate, that do not run far before they lose themselves in the sand.  In the valleys they have their villages.  Sometimes all their water is from isolated springs that do not run, or from holes dug in the sand.  A great portion of such a country produces no vegetation at all.  Other parts give their favorite mezquite bean and acorn, the pine nut, tuna (fruit of cactus), maguey, mescal, berries and seeds of grass and herbs, all of which, with a moderate culture of wheat, corn, melons, and pumpkins, and various small animals, form their staple food.  The Cahuillas are not fond of bear meat, and have no deer to hunt; the Dieguin&tilde;os and San Luisen&tilde;os have no bear, but hunt the deer and antelope, the former abounding upon their hills and vales.  They manufacture very useful blankets, a kind of urn to hold water and keep it cool in summer (called <HI REND="italics">olla</HI>
051.sgm: ), a sweat-cloth for the saddle, from the maguey fibre, called a <HI REND="italics">coco</HI>
051.sgm:, etc.<ANCHOR ID="n1-39">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-39">Compare with Barrows' description of their material culture in <HI REND="italics">The Ethno-Botany of the Coahuilla Indians</HI>
051.sgm:<P>Such is the country, and such the actual resources, of these four nations, in their wilder state.  Yet, in this dreary wilderness, God gave them land enough for their comfortable subsistence.  But, of that presently.  In bad seasons, as things now stand, they are often half starved.  They are prodigal, too, by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:nature and by custom.  At their annual feast, which always takes place soon after harvest, I have seen them dancing around a large fire, in honor of a deceased relation, and end the ceremony by throwing into the flames their entire stock of provisions and clothing.  I have reason to believe that their imprudence and want of forethought frequently lead to death by starvation, especially in cases of sickness.</p><P>Juan Antonio frequently calls home his followers; and at any time, such is the subordination among them, all, except the old and sick, would permanently leave the settlements, upon a summons from their respective chiefs.  I should, also, include the land proprietors in the exception, and some others who may have a peculiar devotion to certain families.  And the same, I believe, may be said safely of the chiefs of villages belonging to other nations.</p><P>The present chiefs, in general, understand their affairs very well, and appear to be keenly alive to the good of their people.  They often come to the towns--to this city, at any rate--and inflict some punishment in particular cases, the merits of which are left to be "best known to themselves."  They exercise a sort of patriarchal supervision over the domesticated, as well as the wilder classes of the nation.  I do not wish to convey the idea that they have any regular government, or system of law, or rational grades of punishment, much less that they indulge in very refined distinctions as to guilt.  Murder and witchcraft (when it results fatally!) are punished with death.  And it is probable, if the local authorities here should ask it, as a favor, the chiefs would shoot, hang, or bury alive (for this they do sometimes) any notorious horse-thief or cattle-stealer.<ANCHOR ID="n1-40">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: The popular influence ought to be very strong, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:on the other hand, if we may credit the excuse given by Antonio Garra for his attack on Warner's house in 1851; namely, that "he did not want to make the attack then, but his people forced him to go, and he followed."  The people have been known to punish by a prompt exercise of authority; and 'tis certain, that considerable respect is always paid to them.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-40">Indian chiefs not uncommonly were willing to punish culprits or to surrender them for punishment.  See pages 96-97 of this work.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>The chiefs of the Cahuillas, San Luisen&tilde;os, and Dieguin&tilde;os have shown a commendable spirit in restraining their people from cattle-stealing in Los Angeles and San Diego counties.  Thefts of this kind are not as common as might be expected from their necessities and the opportunities they would have for concealment.  The crime is common, indeed; but it is notorious to every cattle owner that these Indians have in it little "act or part," compared with a certain class of the settled population.<ANCHOR ID="n1-41">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: Yet it does occur, occasionally, among the Indians, with all their indisposition to provoke a war with the whites; and will occur, so long as the present equivocal and unjust relations continue to exist between them, and this kind of property ranges over an area of 1,000 square miles, unguarded and with an utter impossibility of being guarded.  The temptation is too great for a hungry Indian.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-41">The news reports of the period support this contention, placing far more blame upon white marauders, Sonoran, Californian, and American, and upon Indian raiders from more distant tribes.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>THE MOUNTAIN VILLAGES. Radically, even the Tularen&tilde;os, a portion of whom commit greater depredations, are not disposed, as a people, to hostility towards the whites.  Individual acts of robbery, however, are apt to recoil upon the whole nation; and rightly enough, when their chiefs refuse to surrender the wrong-doers.  But the Tularen&tilde;os, like the others, always do this upon demand; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:as happened not many months since, in the delivery of two murderers (Indians) by a chief from the vicinity of Tejon.  Another illustration this of an idea I wish always to be kept in mind, touching all these Mission Indians; namely, that they have a common spirit of amity for the whites, and that their general inclination is not for war.  They want peace with the whites.</p><P>Between the Tularen&tilde;os and the others, there is very little intercourse; but, likewise, no existing enmity.  The Cahuillas, who are the nearest, are separated from the former by a waste of barren ridges, at a distance of eighty miles or more.  Of all these nations it may be said, notwithstanding a little coolness now and then, an individual broil, or even a sudden temporary outbreak between two or more rancherias, nothing happens among them that may be likened at all to a state of war, or to that fixed and lasting jealousy and inveterate hatred ever renewing the strife, as between the Sioux and Chippewas, for example, or the former and the Pawnees.<ANCHOR ID="n1-42">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-42">An observation fully substantiated.  See Kroeber, <HI REND="italics">Handbook</HI>
051.sgm:<P>Their national plays and festivals, gaming, drinking, wandering from place to place, and visiting relatives--these are their principal excitements, not war.  They are at peace with one another.</p><P>This must be esteemed a very important feature in their relations.  It augurs well for any efforts the Government may resolve to make towards their farther amelioration.  It may be a powerful motive to that end, since it proves how easily, under the extremest goadings of neglect and injury, and in the final effort of despair and want, they might all be combined against our scattered settlements.</p><P>The Yumas, too, and the Mojaves--so far as we have any information of them--are friendly with these nations.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:is hardly any room for doubt that the former were in perfect concert with Antonio Garra, in his insurrection before mentioned.  And having spoken of this event once more, I ought to say that it grew immediately out of the collection of the State taxes from the San Luisen&tilde;os and Cahuillas, in part; they were also misled by their confidential advisers, unintentionally on the part of the latter, I am willing to believe.  It was an extraordinary measure to have taxed Indians at all, in their present condition, who can so much better receive than give.</p><P>I have aimed neither to exaggerate nor underrate the qualities of these nations.  Viewed as a mass, whether in their individual or their national capacity, they exhibit in common the traits which are always looked to as the groundwork of a rapid civilization.</p><P>They are devoted neither to war nor the chase; they have learned to labor for subsistence; they have acquired the idea of separate property in land; they possess a considerable skill in the useful arts; they are at peace among themselves, and friendly to the whites--docile and tractable, and accustomed to subjection.</p><P>Had they come into the hands of the American Government when they left the Missions, who can doubt that they would now be the equals, at least, of the Choctaws and Cherokees?  If they cannot be made to advance as rapidly, then is all history a fable, and philanthropy an empty dream.</p><P>A plan for their benefit may be considered under two heads:  first, their territory; second, their management.</p><P>TERRITORY I would propose for the western line of the Indian Territory (the other lines having been mentioned already,) a line drawn from the eastern boundary of Santa Isabela Rancho, or its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:neighborhood, direct to the northeastern corner of the Laguna Rancho (thereby including Temecula and Agua Caliente); thence along the northern boundary of Laguna, so as to include the San Jacinto Rancho and the tract commonly known by the name of San Gorgonio--the whole distance (say) 100 miles; thence in a direct course, (say) 120 miles, to the Tejon, including the rancho of that name; thence (say) 100 miles, to the Four Creeks; the rest of this line to be completed by running due south (say) 40 miles, from Santa Isabela to the boundary line between Mexico and the United States.  It would have to be remembered that through this territory pass the main routes of travel and emigration, one of which, along the Tejon and Four Creeks, has been mentioned.  Another leads from Los Angeles, by the Mormon settlement of San Bernardino, Cajon Pass, and Mojave River, to Salt Lake and New Mexico;<ANCHOR ID="n1-43">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: another from Los Angeles, by Temecula and Agua Caliente, (intersecting here the main road from San Diego) to New River and the mouth of the Gila.<ANCHOR ID="n1-44">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: There is a more southern, nearer, and better route<ANCHOR ID="n1-45">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: from San Diego to the mouth of the Gila, going for the most part immediately along the boundary between the United States and Mexico.  These are all good wagon roads, or can be made so; and the country from the Mojave to the Four Creeks and San Joaquin is passable with wagons on one route.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-43">The trail from Salt Lake was outlined by Jedediah Smith as early as 1826 and began to have important traffic in 1849.  Traders used the New Mexico route in 1829 and emigrants in 1841.  See Joseph J. Hill, "The Old Spanish Trail," <HI REND="italics">Hispanic American Historical Review</HI>
051.sgm:, IV (1922), 444-73; William L. Manly, <HI REND="italics">Death Valley in</HI>
051.sgm: '49 (San Jose, 1894); John Walton Caughey, "Southwest from Salt Lake in 1849," <HI REND="italics">Pacific Historical Review</HI>
051.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-44">Subsequently employed by the overland stages.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-45">Shorter, but not better.</NOTE>
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051.sgm:<P>The respective limits of the nations could be defined as conveniently as counties are elsewhere--indeed, there are natural and obvious boundaries--and the Indians would all readily acquiesce in any common sense arrangement.  Mount San Bernardino being of importance to the settlers, on account of its pine timber, the northern boundary of the Cahuillas might be placed to the south and east of it, instead of to the north; in such case, the main western line of the Indian Territory, as first set forth above, would be entirely north of Mount San Bernardino and the Cajon Pass, leaving the space of (say) 100 miles between the Cahuillas and Tularen&tilde;os, wholly unoccupied by any of these Indians, and giving the white inhabitants pine to last them a thousand year, (and there is little else of value in the entire stretch of country thus thrown open).  It would free the emigrant route in that direction from the visits of these Indians, unless with license, which is a circumstance strongly favoring this change of the line.  Within this broad belt rove the Pah-Utahs, often entering the settlements through the Cajon Pass, to stay awhile feeding on cattle and carry off horses back to their sand-hills.  They can be provided for hereafter.</p><P>Let this Territory be subdivided into the requisite number of Indian Reserves, distinguished by the names of the nations; the lands to be reserved from sale or private entry, or occupation by others than the Indians, until Congress shall otherwise order, <HI REND="italics">with their consent</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><P>If the Federal Government believes that it has the power to legislate with[in] the limits of this State over such a territory and people, let the power be exercised with a firmer hand than it has ever been, and in the full spirit of "the greatest amount of good to the largest number."</p><P>The United States District Court ought to be held in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:City of Los Angeles, with a term at San Diego and Santa Barbara; and hence, it may be necessary to make this a separate Judicial District--a measure for which many other sound reasons might be urged, as, for example, its extent and remoteness from San Francisco or Monterey, its rapidly increasing commercial importance, its contiguity to the Mexican territories of Lower California and Sonora, etc.</p><P>There will be harpies ever seeking, for a little filthy lucre, to prey upon the body and soul of the Indian, trespass on his lands and fields, cut his timber, create discord and disobedience.  Let stringent laws be made for the punishment of trespassers, the sale or introduction of ardent spirits, or trading within said limits--such laws as can be enforced; and, if possible, let the punishments be more summary and prompt than they have been in other territories.  These things must be well regulated; and, as it strikes me, agents would have to be invested with considerable discretionary power.</p><P>There should be <HI REND="italics">corporal</HI>
051.sgm: punishment for some offences, for instance, selling ardent spirits to Indians within the territory.</p><P>Viewing the Indians somewhat in the condition of minors and wards under the guardianship of the Government, we should not rest content with so beautiful a theory, nor treat it as a theory, but act upon it in earnest, even as the parent for his child.  I have no sympathy for the white man who would violate a single right of the simple Indian; and the laws should be so framed as to mete out to him, in all such cases, exemplary punishment.</p><P>How the Government will be able to adjust the coming "crisis" on the great plains, and reconcile the two extremes of American civilization and Indian barbarism, is a problem that can be solved as well another day.  Certain it is, that <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
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051.sgm:the Government has reached the <HI REND="italics">ultima thule</HI>
051.sgm: of political speculation, and something more is necessary--it is a question that brooks neither weakness nor delay.  The Nebraska Territory was a magnificent conception--it may yet be realized.  The principles of eternal justice have barriers for the white not less than for the red man.  A government as just as the American, should proclaim and sanction them by its policy.  Fortunately for the red man here, nature comes to our help, in a manner that renders any other policy--impossible!</p><P>Not a thousand acres of all the territory proposed are now occupied by cattle or crops of white men.  Only three white men are actually resident upon any part of it.  No great while ago, it had many a fair garden planted by Indian care--nay, still has them; and the feet of fifteen thousand of that race still tread its rocks and leave their traces on its sands.</p><P>I have mentioned the "Mexican claims" to portions of it,as Tejon, San Gorgonio, San Jacinto, Temecula, and Agua Caliente.  If they amount to valid titles, they ought to be respected.  I presume that they can be quieted for a reasonable sum--much more easily than "Indian title" to them can be "extinguished."  But, be the sum largelybeyond their real value to the present claimants, I regard it as of the last importance to the Indians, the Government, and adjoining white population, to secure these five situations for the permanent location of the Indians; not a fugitive, equivocal, and uncertain "right of occupancy," but a real and stable property, a home and homestead forever.</p><P>At this moment they may be said truly to be mere wastes, so far as the hand of man has anything to do with them.  The interests of the claimants appear to direct them elsewhere.  The Indians glean their fruitful surface for a few months' subsistence, but their energy needs to be guided by more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:enlightened hands than their own.  They need the American Government for a little while.  All these points once had minor establishments of the missions.  They are still the choicest seats of Indian villages.</p><P>They are the only places where the different nations could be colonized and established in large numbers, with sufficient land for cultivation.  San Gorgonio and San Jacinto each has more than 2,000 acres capable of raising barley and wheat, without irrigation; and sufficient water, husbanded as the Missions taught Indians to manage this matter, to supply in abundance beans, pumpkins, and the other crops Indians are familiar with, or can soon be made so.  The beautiful valley of Temecula--the granary of San Luis Rey Mission--presents an agricultural area of three times this capacity; and Agua Caliente and the Tejon are not inferior, perhaps superior to Temecula.  In the direction of the Tejon, but rather out of the line proposed, there are other good selections that can be made.  The Cahuillas can raise 100,000 bushels of wheat or barley annually, at San Jacinto or San Gorgonio.  Temecula and Agua Caliente would yield $300,000 worth of like produce every year for the San Luisen&tilde;os and Dieguin&tilde;os.  Equal resources would reward the Tularen&tilde;os at the Tejon.  They do not need annuities.  Nature has these in ample store, with their mere rights of property secured, and a judicious management.  At Agua Caliente, Coyote, and other places, they still have producing vineyards; and at others, orchards; all planted by themselves for the Missions.  At Coyote the grape ripens two months sooner than nearer the coast--at Los Angeles, for instance.  All these valleys are fine for every species of fruit, as well as for vegetables and small grain.  They are well enough timbered for ordinary farming purposes, and as to water, what I have said of San Gorgonio will apply to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:the rest.  There is abundant grass for stock, with wild oats.  I have no reason to believe that there is gold or silver in an amount sufficient to justify any of the mining enterprises characteristic of the northern part of the State.  There are no other minerals important to be noticed here.  The Mohave river offers one other point, in this direction, where a considerable body of Indians might be concentrated and well sustained; and its upper waters might serve for the Cahuillas, in part.  The lesser valleys and rivulets might still be made auxiliary to the supply of these people, in like manner as under the Missions--only entrusted to the care of the more trustworthy Indians, and always kept under the commons system.  But upon the locations I have attempted to describe should be concentrated and established the mass of the several nations.</p><P>THE MILITARY POSTS, if I may be permitted to make the suggestion which has, probably, been anticipated in the proper quarter, should be at the Four Creeks (or its neighborhood), on the Mohave river, and at the junction of the rivers Gila and Colorado; the first and third, of 100 men each; for the second, a small number would suffice.  The distance is about thirty miles to the Mohave from the Cajon Pass, where it enters the valley of San Bernardino.  If half a troop of dragoons were stationed here, and half on the Mohave--say, sixty men in all--and a due disposition made respecting the nations now particularly under our notice, the county of Los Angeles would be spared the incursions of Utahs and Pah-Utahs, which have followed every full moon, until within very few months.  As many troops are not necessary now as were two and three years ago, because this part of the country is rapidly settling up with a population able, in part, and always willing, to defend <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:themselves.  I do not believe that soldiers ought to be kept in the midst of the Indiansof whom we are speaking here, save when absolutely necessary to enforce the laws in the extreme cases an Agent might be placed in sometimes.  In common practice, he would possess control enough over them, from the fact of his ability to summon troops from a post so near as the Mohave or Cajon Pass, or from a garrison which, I suppose, would always be maintained, of necessity, somewhere in San Diego county--at the rancho of Santa Ysabella, Mission of San Luis Rey, or in the town itself of San Diego.  The distance from the Cajon Pass to San Gorgonio is 30 miles; to Temecula, 50 miles, to Agua Caliente, 85 miles.  A post on the Mohave river would also serve to take care of the Mohave nation, and watch the passage to the Four Creeks, from the direction of the Great Salt Lake; while that on Porsiuncula river, or the Four Creeks, would fully protect San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, and Tulare counties.  I may be excused if I add that all the expence of 250 soldiers thus occupied for a couple of years, would not equal the losses which Los Angeles county alone has sustained from Indian depredations in the same length of time--from wild Indians, I mean--to say nothing of the immense losses of the other counties, and of individual travelers and emigrants, besides the sacrifice of numerous valuable lives.  Nor should their expences be weighed at all in the balance with the incomparable advantages to be gained and dangers to be avoided by bettering the condition of these Indians whom they would thus protect in the quiet pursuits of industry.  If the Indian is to lay down the bow and arrow, he must have some guarantee that it will not be taken up by his natural enemy, and used against him.  These troops are an indispensable part of the undertaking we expect to enter into; and a kind and munificent government cannot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:complain of the comparatively trifling cost of their support on this frontier.</p><P>I have said that the Indians can never go back to the Missions; nor is it necessary that they should go back.  United States troops are occupying San Diego and San Luis Rey; San Fernando, Santa Barbara, and Santa Ynes are under leases, soon to expire; but it is understood, after a [nominal] two months' notice to the Indians, all of them were sold, somewhere about the end of 1845 and June, 1846.  The alleged purchasers, or most of them, are now urging their claims before the Commissioners of Land Titles.  There are, also, alleged creditors against the Missions, as against San Gabriel, for example.  The rich plains of the one last mentioned, with its vineyards, orchards, and olive groves, are covered with preemption claims of white settlers.  A fragment of each, with its church, is in possession of a resident priest.  I am credibly informed that the Mexican Government remains indebted to the Missions between one and two millions of dollars for supplies furnished the Presidios (garrisons) between 1810 and 1837, the date of their final destruction, in a pecuniary point of view.</p><P>If the Indians have a just right to these Missions, or any legal interest in them, it ought to be disposed of, and the proceeds applied to their use; or in such case, if the Missions shall be given up to settlement, like other public land, which seems to be their destiny, situated as they are in the heart of the coast country, an equivalent can be provided for the Indians in the new locations resigned to them by the Government.  On the latter supposition, the Government may be more readily reconciled to the cost of quieting claims, removal, establishment, etc.</p><P>The value of the Missions, at the date of their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:secularization in 1834, taking cattle and other personal property into account, could not have been less than (say) $5,000,000.  Extend the calculation to land, and it would be almost beyond appreciation.  From that date to June (or July), 1846, vineyards, orchards, buildings, all included, they could not have depreciated to less than (say) one million.  What a magnificient annuity fund, or capital of bank stock!  That so much property should have passed from the hands of the Mission Indians, in the short space of six months, without any known agency of theirs, is an event calculated to leave an impression upon the minds of reflecting men, long after the actors in such a wholesale confiscation shall be forgotten.  I well remember the surprise manifested when a knowledge of these sales first became public, which has not subsided to the present day.  The proper judicial tribunals will decide upon the question of their legality.  What we want for the Indians is a system of measures, immediately to be carried into effect; not the "glorious uncertainties" of a protracted litigation in their behalf, even with the reasonable assurance of gaining them all these splendid structures they have reared, but which in any event, must pass into other hands.<ANCHOR ID="n1-46">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-46">Under the operation of the California Land Act of 1851 land titles throughout California were beclouded with uncertainty, glorious or otherwise, and were to continue so for many years.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
051.sgm:, VI, 529-81; Caughey, <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
051.sgm:<P>There are many well-meaning men, I know, who favor the idea of restoring them to the Missions, as places wedded to their affections and where they would be more sure to prosper, as in former days.  A knowledge of the country forbids the idea: the measure is impracticable.  And the sympathy which wastes itself on the impracticable, where the poor Indian is concerned, proves his worst enemy.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>I would scarely discharge my duty to them, if I failed, in this connection, to advert to certain laws which bear strongly on their rights, at least as they strike my humble judgment.</p><P>There is a qualified recognition of some of their rights, even by the law of the State of California, passed April 22d, 1850, section second, as follows:</p><P>"Persons and proprietors of lands on which Indians are residing, shall permit such Indians peaceably to reside on such lands, unmolested in the pursuit of their usual avocations for the maintenance of themselves and families; provided, the white person, or proprietor, in possession of such lands may apply to a Justice of the Peace in the township where the Indians reside, to set off to such Indians a certain amount of land, and on such application, the Justice of the Peace shall set off a sufficient amount of land for the necessary wants of such Indians, including the site of their village or residence, if they so prefer it; and in no case shall such selection be made to the prejudice of such Indians, nor shall they be forced to abandon their homes or villages where they have resided for a number of years, and either party feeling themselves aggrieved, can appeal to the County Court from the decision of the Justice; and then [when?] divided, a record shall be made of the lands so set off in the court so dividing them, and the Indians shall be permitted to remain thereon until otherwise provided for."</p><P>No such division of lands has been made among the Indians--at least, to my knowledge.  The practical efficacy of the State law may be judged of from the fact that the Indians I am speaking of "reside" in a "township" equal to Rhode Island and Delaware put together, without a Justice of the Peace nearer than thirty miles, in general, nor likely to be nearer within the next hundred years.  And what do they or can they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:know of "appeals" and County Courts?  Or, if they did know, who would plead their cause?</p><P>On the same day, a law was passed repealing "all laws now in force in this State, except such as have been passed or adopted by Legislature," but without affecting any "rights acquired, contracts made, or suits pending, nor any constitutional laws or acts of Congress, or any of the stipulations contained in the treaty of peace between the United States and Mexico, ratified at Queretaro, the 30th of May, 1848."</p><P>It was a generous provision of the Spanish law which declared: "After distributing among the Indians whatever they may justly want to cultivate, sow, and raise cattle, confirming to them what they now hold, and granting what they may want besides, all the remaining land may be reserved to us [the King], clear of any incumbrance, for the purpose of being given as rewards, or disposed of according to our pleasure."  (White's Land Laws, vol. 2, p. 52.)  Lands could never be granted, without notice to the Indians.  (Ib., p. 95.)  The old permits of settlement to retired soldiers in California will be found with the clause, "without prejudice to the Indians."  Nor could the subjected Indians be deprived of their lands, as the law declares: "Whereas, the Indians would sooner and more willingly be reduced into settlements, if they were allowed to retain the lands and improvements which they possess in the districts from which they shall remove; we command that no alteration be made therein, and that the same be left to them, to be owned as before, in order that they may continue to cultivate them and dispose of their produce" (Ib., p. 59).</p><P>There can be no doubt, then, that under the Spanish laws, these Indians of whom we treat have a right to their villages and pasture lands, to the extent of their wants, "as their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:common property, by a perpetual right of possession;" in the words of the Supreme Court of the United States, "a possession considered with reference to Indian habits and modes of life; and the hunting grounds of the tribes were as much in their actual occupation as the cleared fields of the whites."  (9 Peters' U. S. Reports, p. 711.)  Theirs, indeed, is the only real occupation or cultivation all those fine tracts we have spoken of ever had; and the whole will be just "sufficient for the necessary wants of such Indians," in the language of the State law, whose spirit only imitates the beneficient principles which pervaded all the laws of the Indies, where this unhappy race were concerned.</p><P>Turn again to the Missions.</p><P>No past mal-administration of those laws can be suffered to destroy their true intent, while the victims of mal-administration live to complain, and all the rewards of wrong have not been consumed.  Of all that noble estate earned by the Indians through half a century of toil, a little is left.  'Tis not now "natural rights" I speak of, nor merely possessory, but "rights acquired and contracts made," to quote the State law again--acquired and made when the laws of the Indies had force here, never assailed by any laws or executive acts till 1834 or 1846, (and impregnable to all these,) shielded not only by the laws of California, but, before, by the Constitution of the United States, and which, in virtue of the treaty of peace, can safely be entrusted to the justice and wisdom of the Federal Judiciary.</p><P>If the Fathers were ever more, in the laws, than trustees or guardians of their neophytes, I am unable to see it.  If the neophytes ever had other legal relation to them than of wards, it must have been of slaves.  A certain oblique or inconsiderate way of viewing history, might lead some persons hastily <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:to such a supposition.  Admit the <HI REND="italics">fact</HI>
051.sgm: of slavery, if you please; no idea, in respect to the neophytes, would be more abhorrent to the <HI REND="italics">law</HI>
051.sgm:.  The Indians of California never were slaves, by virtue of any law.  Let the laws and their connection with the Missions speak for them, in as brief a recapitulation as I can possibly embrace the opinions which I wish to convey.</p><P>Their right of occupancy does not date back only eighty-two years ago, to the appearance of the Fathers among them--an event which their old men and women still describe in their own simple style.  "When the Indians come to us," says the founder of all these Missions, "we give them food and clothing; so, soon we shall gain their confidence, and be able to teach them to discern good from evil."  When the Fathers and the soldiers failed of supplies and nearly famished, the Indians gathered the wild seeds to feed them.  When the former became stronger and more numerous, the neophytes supported them from the mission produce.  And, from the beginning to the end, the Indians paid all the expenses of the government.  Under the laws of the Indies, they adopted the discipline of the Fathers, and nearly all were subugated to the faith.  At any rate, so the all-confident Fathers proclaimed it, and we cannot doubt their sincerity, even if we may their judgment.  The Indians became "reduced," in the expressive language of the laws.</p><P>Can we believe that, through all, day and night, and in every lesson, the natives did not hear of those laws made by the good and kind Spanish monarchs?  No!  The Fathers must have preached them as often as any other truth, to inspire their disciples with a hope equal to their constant labor.  Their submission was the result of many things combined, but I seem to see in it inducements and promises--considerations, would not be an unapt expression--such as never have existed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:between American rulers and an Indian tribe.  Call it--law! Call it--force!  These were its sanctions, instruments of its execution.  But the whole wears more the aspect of solemn treaty--rather an almost infinite series of treaties--binding forever the faith of the Spanish crown, and not less its republican successors.</p><P>Religion, "pure and undefiled," would seem to have been its basis.  If we may credit the laws and instructions, certain actual benefits and the substantial blessings temporal which all covet were to be the price--and who will say they could be an equivalent?--of the life of toil to which the savages bound themselves and posterity.  There is but one impulse of human nature capable of sustaining them: self-interest!  And how hopefully each generation must have struggled on in that weary race!  Not <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
051.sgm: "a spiritual conquest," "a civilized and rational life!"--but "mission pueblos," "to become cities, and houses of adobe or of stone and morter"--"a garden, where the Indian shall sow some seeds and herbs and plant trees"--"thus holding them with constancy to the place." More than all the rest: "common lands" and "individual concessions to such Indians as may most dedicate themselves to agriculture and the raising of cattle: for," continue these instructions, August 17, 1773, to the commandant of San Diego and Monterey, "having property of their own, the love of it will cause them to plant themselves more firmly."  Fond illusion!  Tribe after tribe it drew to the sacred portals.  Carried down through a weary length of years! To this hour cherished by many a dark-skinned child of the mountains! Never, perchance, inscribed on parchment--yet written indelibly upon the Indian's heart!</p><P>Never was a more solemn treaty ratified before heaven.  Never before, or since, was a contract so shamelessly violated.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Long ago the Indians did their part to fulfil it.  The venerable Fathers left no stain upon their good faith.  To have snatched away the cup brimful for fruition, is the reproach of other men, whose acts--as the wrong is not yet <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
051.sgm: consummated--will be judged by a Government from which "vested rights" will receive due protection.</p><P>No unbending prescription has hallowed the wrong.  The true history of the Missions, when it shall be written, will not authorize the assertion that the Indians "abandoned" them, and so incurred a forfeiture of their legal rights, or placed themselves out of the power of the authorities to comply with their duties under the laws.  The authorities--God knows!--always had power enough; and the world knows it.  Here, at least, these Indians have "property," as well as "occupancy."</p><P>From the first, portions of the natives repulsed the kind approaches of the Fathers, it is true.  They clung tenaciously to their mountain villages.  There, reunited at length with neophytes and their descendants, they maintain an organized existence as political societies--of an inferior grade, indeed, but quite as distinct and substantial as is observable in many other tribes under the jurisdiction of the United States.  Do what he may, and wander where he will for a time, there is no other resting-place at last for the neophyte but at the fires of his tribe.  This state of things impartial history will attribute to the secularization of the Missions, in the manner it was effected, and the multitude of irregular and illegal acts consequent upon that unfortunate measure.  For none can doubt that then the Indians were ripe for the last achievements in that experiment of which they had borne the burden so many years.  Common tradition, even now, whether among Indians or whites, tells of the beauty, order, and comfort with which everything went on at a Mission: the charming simplicity and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:decorum of the Indians; their industry, honesty, and intelligence.  It was a Manchester or Lowell, on a small scale.  It may be, the Fathers became too fond of the pleasures and importance which wealth and power bring with them.  They gave no signs of corruption, however, in their dealings with their people.  They must have had too little confidence in the white community around them; and, perchance, foresaw the storm ahead, and fancied they alone could brave and shield their "little ones" from its rage.  To me it seems, had they put on at once the energy of the Jesuits, and, like those valiant priests in Lower California, resisting power and avarice with an iron front, moulded their little communities to the shape which the ancient laws designed, all would have been saved.  They might have done this in 1830, or before.  The blow once struck, they had ample time to repent their weakness; and all who succeeded them, to deplore its consequences.<ANCHOR ID="n1-47">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-47">There are less glowing descriptions of life at the missions; for example, in Bancroft's and Chapman's histories of California and in Carey McWilliams, <HI REND="italics">Southern California Country</HI>
051.sgm:<P>I have treated their rights with candor, if not well.  Less I could not have said in justice to myself, as a representative of their interests, which appeal so strongly to the attention of the Government.</p><P>I now proceed to offer some recommendations for their management.</p><P>MANAGEMENT. Upon the whole, I wish to see preserved the principal machinery which has been adopted for the government of the other more advanced tribes.  A sub-agent, farmer, blacksmith, and carpenter would be necessary for each town, there being eight towns in all, with those of the Mojaves and Yumas; an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:interpreter and teacher, likewise, for each town.  The duties of such officers are well specified in the existing regulations, it being understood that some of these regulations do not apply here, (and such can be readily distinguished).</p><P>Would it not be better to commence teaching with the Spanish language, under the present circumstances?  I incline to think it would, but possibly not, as they are to be reared to the uses of American civilization, with which its language is closely identified.  They have a great capacity for learning languages--perhaps I have mentioned this before.</p><P>For teachers, at first, and for a long time, we should have to depend on the religious or benevolent societies: this would be the best, if they can be induced to embark promptly in this great task.</p><P>Their religious affairs, of course, should be left to the different Christian denominations, showing equal favor to all.</p><P>Good farmers and interpreters, as well as many minor officials requisite for these nations, can be found here in each of the nations, or among those of Indian descent.</p><P>Sub-agents and master carpenters and blacksmiths, and, indeed, all persons employed among the nations, should be men of families; this ought to be almost a <HI REND="italics">sine qua non</HI>
051.sgm:.  Salaries would be raised proportionately.</p><P>The schools should be conducted on some uniform plan, in its main features to be regulated by law.  Religion, I hope, will not be without its faithful ministers; but, to avoid all difficulties ensuing upon a possible difference of theological tenets, the schools should be confined to studies not of a sectarian character.  Every other facility ought to be extended to the ministers of the gospel, in their labors.  If I do not completely mistake the character of these Indians, they will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:yield themselves to instruction more readily than almost any other tribe in the Union.  Experience, however, satisfies me that the schools ought to be regulated by law, and not the discretion of each society--some simple and practical law.  Attendance on school certain hours and days in the week, the kinds of punishments or rewards, branches to be taught, etc., might be subjects of regulation.  Parents should be compelled to send their children to school, under some penalty; this there may seldom be occasion to inflict.</p><P>Manual labor schools, perhaps, are desirable; but of this I am not certain.  Boys will be withdrawn from school very often, to assist their parents on the farm, in the garden or workshop--those of the larger size, particularly.  Labor and study will thus conflict even more than is advisable.  Rather let them be pushed on with their studies for a year or two.</p><P>There are <HI REND="italics">Indian women</HI>
051.sgm: capable of teaching the girls plain needlework, washing and ironing, and a various household knowledge.  These should be kept in employ on salaries, a few in each town.  This will encourage them, and they may be among the most efficient civilizers.</p><P>Their common government, religion, and education being disposed of, let us observe rather more in detail the other necessary points in their management.</p><P>They ought to be required absolutely to reside on their respective territories or reserves, and not to leave unless with license from the sub-agents, upon reasons fixed by law, or in cases of necessity, to be judged of by the sub-agents.  Any laws intended for their benefit must keep in view to some extent, the character and wants of the neighboring white population.  Some of these Indians would, probably, still wish to bind themselves as servants in families, as before; they ought to be permitted to leave the Territory for this purpose; why <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:might not the contract of hiring be required to be made before the sub-agent, not to exceed a year without renewal? "Madrinas," (Godmothers), here agreeably to Spanish usage, have a great taste for keeping Indian children till they become of age or marry; there are many orphans whom their parents have left to the possession and care of particular friends, and others for whom the Probate Court has appointed guardians (so-called).  Others would hang about the towns as vagabonds, and ought to be removed to a place where they can be controlled, and have motives to be better.  Fugitives from the State laws would fly to the Territory, and <HI REND="italics">vice versa</HI>
051.sgm:.  White men would hover on the border of the Territory, to trade with Indians, etc.  A <HI REND="italics">State law</HI>
051.sgm: should prohibit, like that of Missouri, all trading with Indians, <HI REND="italics">in the counties here mentioned</HI>
051.sgm:, and outside of the Territory or Reserves, for provisions, clothing, horses, cattle, indeed any personal property--at least there should be a temporary law of this trade.  A good State law would be necessary for many other purposes connected with this plan; the present State law is clearly inadequate to the exigencies of these Indians.</p><P>PRESENT STATE LAW. We may fairly presume that the State law now in force was not intended to be permanent.  In addition to the provision above quoted touching lands, it extends the civil and criminal laws of the State over all Indians within its limits; prohibits their punishment, except by justices of the peace, with a jury (if required); subjects them to fine or whipping, not to exceed 25 lashes for stealing; gives the Indians power to require the chiefs and influential men of any village to apprehend, and bring before the justices any Indian charged or suspected of an offence; and "if any tribe or village refuse or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:neglect to obey the laws, the justice of the peace may punish the guilty chiefs or principle men by reprimand or fine, or otherwise reasonably chastise them."  If convicted, Indians may be hired out to pay the fine and costs for a time fixed by the justice.  A white man is finable for "abducting an Indian from his home, or compelling him to work against his will," and for selling or giving him intoxicating liquors (except in sickness)--and, for the last offence may be imprisoned not less than five days.  Contracts for hiring must be in writing made before a justice of the peace.  In like manner a minor Indian child may be bound out by parents or friends till the age of 18, if a male, and a female till 15, these being their ages of majority.  For vagrancy--"loitering and strolling about, or frequenting public places where liquors are sold, begging, or leading an immoral or profligate course of life," he is hired out at public auction, a term not longer than four months, to be subject to the law regulating guardians and minors, unless he can give bail for good behavior for twelve months; the proceeds of his hire, after deducting certain expenses, to be paid to his family, if he have one, if not, like fines to be paid into the county treasury.  The only additional remedial provision is one making it "the duty of justices of the peace, in their respective townships, as well as all other peace officers in this State, to instruct the Indians in their neighborhood in the laws which relate to them, giving them such advice as they may deem necessary!"</p><P><HI REND="italics">All</HI>
051.sgm: punishment.  <HI REND="italics">No</HI>
051.sgm: reform!</p><P>TOWNS. There ought to be at least one principal town, or <HI REND="italics">pueblo</HI>
051.sgm: on each of the reserves.  I think, however, that the Tularen&tilde;os and Cahuillas might manage their resources to better <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:advantage, each being divided into towns.  In round numbers, then, those that can be immediately provided for may be distributed as follows: 1st, Four Creeks, (Tularen&tilde;os,) 1,000; 2d.  Tejon, (same,) 1,000; 3d, San Gorgonio, (Cahuillas,) 1,500; 4th, San Jacinto, (same,) 1,500; 5th, Temecula, (San Luisen&tilde;os,) 1,000; 6th, Agua Caliente, (Dieguin&tilde;os) 1,000; 7th, Mouth of Gila, (Yumas,) 1,000; 8th, Upper Colorado, (Mohaves,) 1,000.  For the present the two last may be excluded from view, as they require some peculiar arrangements in their behalf.  The distance from one town to another is as follows, viz: From Four Creeks to Tejon, say 100 miles; thence to San Gorgonio, 130; thence to San Jacinto, say 12; thence to Temecula, say 15; thence to Agua Caliente, 35 miles; that is by the usual routes.</p><P>The body of the people should have their houses and residences in the towns.  The sites of these and the manner of building them are matters which a people can determine after they become settled, have raised a crop, and have time to look about them.  They should be built as compactly as health will admit of, and let the "laws of the Indies," and some other Spanish laws, suggest a part of the regulations, if better ones cannot be devised in these days of progress.  For the present, the rude architecture of the Indians would answer.  Let us "hasten slowly" in some things.</p><P>IMMEDIATE SUPPORT. One thousand head of cattle, with their own natural resources, would amply support them for six months.  These can be delivered and slaughtered at the sites mentioned for $30,000.  They would need, also, at the beginning, a small supply of common clothing--blankets, hats, calico, and brown cotton sheeting; farming and mechanical implements, and some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:work animals, mules or oxen.  A physician and some medicines are among the earliest requisites towards a moral reform, which must not forget the physical.  First and last, they would be taught that on their own physical exertions they must rely for subsistence, and that all these measures were only designed as a helping hand towards that end.  Afterwards, they could not only support themselves, but defray all the expenses of their officers, if proper to do so.  They have done more than this before, and can do it again.  The Missions, doubtless, taught this lesson, from father to son.  Stern necessity has since indelibly impressed it upon their minds.  They will not be apt to retain false ideas on the subject of self-dependence.</p><P>COMMON LANDS. The land of each Town should be held common until such time as it may be deemed expedient to dispose of it otherwise, and should be cultivated by the whole of the people who are not assigned to other pursuits.</p><P>There should be hours of labor, rest, and amusement, not entirely losing sight of their olden-time sports, and new ones may be invented.</p><P>The division of labor among the different classes, planting, sowing, irrigation and cultivation, harvest, building, fencing, care of stock, and various other things of their economy, can only be judged of by competent men on the spot.  They should be left to the rules which a discreet agent may frame under the approbation of the proper department.</p><P>It will not excite surprise that such a proposition should be made, when known that within 30 miles of one of these proposed communities, a settlement of 500 Mormons hold their land in community, build splendid mills, cut long roads up steep mountains, cultivate common wheat fields of 2,000 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:acres enclosed, by the joint labor of the whole people, and enjoy harmony, content, and prosperity withal.<ANCHOR ID="n1-48">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: Good neighbors to the Indians, and a model for them!  With few exceptions, the Mormons are congregated in a small town, built a year or so ago, for defence against some of the same Indians.  In another year, perhaps, agreeably to American usage and necessity, the former will each live upon his separate farm, and till it according to his taste or sense of his interests.  But, would this policy be advisable for the Indians--at this time? For the great mass of them it would not, I think.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-48">The reference, of course, is to San Bernardino.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>INDIVIDUAL CONCESSIONS. There are many objections to allowing them to live dispersed, in this, their first stage of improvement.  It interferes too much with education, and deprives them measurably of instruction in religion; takes them from under the eye of their officers and influence of good examples, exposes them to the practices of evil-disposed persons who may be lurking about the territory, and otherwise puts them in the way of temptation, and tends to weaken the tie of a common <HI REND="italics">public interest</HI>
051.sgm: which requires to be sustained by more than ordinary means where different villages are thus to be amalgamated, as it were, under a common system.</p><P>Moreover, the locations here suggested for them, are not suitable for their dispersion in small farms, to any great number--nor do I believe that the Missions were, in general.  They would be sufficient for men content to be half-starved through the year.  Their full resources could not thus be developed.  San Gorgonio, for example, would not support a hundred small farmers, seeking to satisfy the wants of civilization; while, under a common cultivation, and a systematic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:and economical appropriation of the water for irrigation, it will amply support three thousand souls, and more.<ANCHOR ID="n1-49">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-49">This is cogent appraisal of the problems of efficient land utilization in the southern California environment.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>The few "land proprietors," and the overseers and hands of the minor establishments would not be excepted from this rule, though the former would consent to remove to the reserves, on no other condition, probably; and might be permitted at once to own small separate tracts.  But, it would be better to make a different arrangement with them; the superior skill they have in agriculture qualifies them to be the instructors and managers of the rest, in various employments that might be found for them.  There is a very common practice here, of farming, even with Americans, who wish to save fencing, for instance, that suggests equitable provisions among the Indians by which a species of separate property may be preserved, with common fields, zanjas, &amp;c.  With, or without, separate farms, they should long be required to have their habitations within the town limits--a necessary requirement for police purposes.</p><P>In the course of time "individual concessions" might be made to such Indians as "may most dedicate themselves to agriculture and the raising of cattle," being just rewards of their proficiency, and strong incentives to emulation among the rest, and consequent improvement.  They are not ready for this measure now.</p><P>COMMON STOCK--COMPULSORY LABOR. I am not sure that I can recommend <HI REND="italics">a restraint</HI>
051.sgm: to be put upon them, different in principle from that which has been exercised towards other tribes of the United States, in remarkable cases.  If mine would be greater in degree, it is the result of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:my observation of the character of these particular nations, and the circumstances that surround them.  They require a vigilance, as much for their own protection as to prevent them from doing wrong to the other inhabitants.  And the country they would live in, and the climate, at once inculcate and favor their concentration in large bodies, not less than the necessity they will feel to have a fixed and watchful government.</p><P>Their wastefulness furnishes a sufficient reason for requiring most of their productions--all their wheat and corn, for instance, to be kept in a common stock, and to be dealt out to them by certain rules, in daily, or tri-weekly rations.  Otherwise, no amount of provisions would last them through the year, until by long habit they shall have reformed in this respect.</p><P>An immemorial law of the Pimos, and one secret of their success in agriculture beyond their neighbors, compels every able-bodied man to work a certain number of days in the week.  No better regulation could be devised for these nations, fixing also, a limited number of working hours every day (except Sunday).  It is the same they were accustomed to under the Missions.  In some civilized agricultural and mechanical districts, custom and the exactions of capital, fix this matter with an oppression much more severe on the individual man, than can be felt by these Indians, under their genial sun, and on a soil yielding as much as most other countries, with half the labor.  Let it be the " <HI REND="italics">six</HI>
051.sgm: --hour system!" if you will.</p><P>These two rules--a common-stock and compulsory labor--are absolutely indispensable to their welfare, at the incipiency of any plan.  Thus far, the Government would lead them back to the Mission system.  All the balance will tend to reform and mould it to suit our own institutions.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>CODE OF LAWS. Such communities as are here proposed to be created--or rather, re-organized--will need a plain and simple code of laws and "ordinances" adapted to their genius and pursuits, to be changed according to the state of their progress.  Unlike the wild tribes, they are prepared for this step.  They have a very correct notion of right and wrong; value life and property; are familiar with the idea of "alcalde" (Magistrate); like speedy accusation and trial; are used to obedience.</p><P>They are easily governed.  Fines may do for some-- <HI REND="italics">corporal</HI>
051.sgm: punishment will be best to restrain others; it may be tolerated for a year or two yet, in California, "at the discretion of the Court;" nor should rewards be forgotten.</p><P>Their local code, whatever it may be, ought to be administered by officers, either Indians or of Indian descent, as far as possible.  I am not prepared to say that they can safely be their own legislators, for the first year or two.  I do not believe they would desire to be; but, on the contrary, would be glad to adopt in all things the advice of the Government.</p><P>Stealing and personal trespasses would be the offences commonly committed; these should be punished on the spot, their chiefs being the "justices of the peace," (for the present), with appeal to the sub-agent; nor would it be inadvisable to accustom them to trial by jury.  Murder would be tried and punished differently.  The agent and sub-agents must have the power, in some cases, to punish summarily as for disobedience of their lawful orders.  One guard against the abuse of power would be, to require a report of all such cases, under oath, to the proper department.</p><P>In questions of property between them, the sub-agent may constitute a tribunal, of the nature of courts of conciliation in Mexico, formerly in use here, and very well adapted to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:understanding of these Indians, as they were to that of the common run of "whites," six years ago, whose most important disputes were settled often in this way.  The appeal from such a court consists simply in the declaration, "I do not agree;" in such case, it being the duty of the sub-agent to transfer the cause to the agent, when the amount should exceed (say) $20; provided that sub-agents, or agents should report to the proper department, briefly, the facts of all such cases; as well as a short statement of all criminal cases disposed of.  Such a report might be made to the district attorney of the United States.</p><P>It is not important to retain the present distinctions of chiefs.  The desire of power and place may be as well gratified by the substitution of other analagous offers of more civilized life, such as justices of the peace and sheriff.  These appointments should emanate from the superintendent or agent, and depend upon good behavior.  They are accustomed to this mode of filling even the office of chief, and sometimes pride themselves on it, as an evidence of their standing with the whites.  Gen. Kearney appointed Antonio Garra to be chief, and "breveted" Juan Antonio a "general;" and the Mexican authorities did so as a regular practice.</p><P>These Indians can be trained to self-government in a short time; still, the elective franchise is not the most material thing, just now, for their happiness.  But, let them be governed with the least possible violence to their personal independence and freedom; and so that, in all measures, they may be able to discover the strict justice of the government.</p><P>Such is a rude sketch of a plan which, I believe, would promote the happiness of the Mission Indians, and which, or something tending to that end, I fervently hope, may be soon matured and finally established by the wisdom of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:lawgivers.  If duly weighed, the more serious objections to it will be found to have been answered, at one place or another, in the course of the foregoing remarks; and where such objections have not been met directly, and in [explicit] terms, or if new ones may suggest themselves to a cautious reader, all the facts necessary for the solution of his doubts, I trust, may have been sufficiently laid before him.</p><P>One word I will add: Considered in their relation to agriculture, in this part of California, these Indians are the only farmers living here, besides the Americans who have come into the country since the war, and a very few who were here before.  The California "Spaniard," (so to speak) loves his fiery steed--not the plough.  Many such a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
051.sgm:, rich in cattle and "goodly acres," by the ten thousand, must go to his Indian neighbor hard by on the rancho, if he would dine today on his maize or <HI REND="italics">frijole</HI>
051.sgm:!  This remark is made, subject only to isolated exceptions, and as authorizing a general inference much more favorable to the Indian than my incidental description of him, merely as a farm-laborer; for, in a multitude of instances on the numerous ranchos, even where he neither owns land, nor claims more than a casual occupancy, he is more than a <HI REND="italics">peon</HI>
051.sgm: (servant).  A very independent and useful producer is the Mission Indian, in such case, whose house and furniture need no insurance, but without whom a <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
051.sgm: would eat much less bread and vegetables!  That agriculture must be at a low ebb, under such circumstances, may well be inferred.  For all that, let us organize, cherish, and improve it, even in the hardy hands we find it, restoring to them their just rights, wherein rejoicing they may push on to the bright goal which American civilization points out to them.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>YUMAS. The Yumas range from New river to the Colorado, and through the country between the latter river and the Gila, but, may be said to inhabit the bottom lands of the Colorado, near the junction of the Gila and the Colorado.  Here the first missionaries found them about the year 1776-7, and made two establishments which were soon destroyed.  They were formed on a plan different from the Missions above spoken of,<ANCHOR ID="n1-50">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: in this, that the Fathers cared only for spiritual matters, leaving the Indians, after they were baptized, to live in their <HI REND="italics">rancherias</HI>
051.sgm: and support themselves as before, among the unconverted.  Eight soldiers, and as many settlers with their families, formed <HI REND="italics">pueblos</HI>
051.sgm:.  "As the Fathers had no presents to make to them," says the old narrative,<ANCHOR ID="n1-51">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: the reduction of the Indians was difficult; still they frequented the pueblos to traffic with the soldiers and settlers.  Through this intercourse and the aid of a good interpreter, the Fathers succeeded in baptising a few; and, as these did not live in the pueblos, but in their rancherias with the Gentiles, having the same freedom and customs, they very seldom came near the Mission to say their prayers.  The Fathers were thus under the necessity of hunting them up through the rancherias and staying some days with them to say the catechism, teach them a little, and attract them to mass on holy days, all of which gave much labor and molestation to the Fathers.  Add to this, the resentment of the Gentiles at seeing the grass and other herbage consumed by the horses and cattle of the soldiers and settlers, so that they were deprived of the seeds which before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:supported most of them.  They saw at the same time that the settlers had appropriated the small parcel of available land, and that they could no longer sow there, as before, their corn, beans, squashes, and water-melons.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-50">This experimental deviation from the regular mission system is described in Charles E. Chapman, <HI REND="italics">A History of California, The Spanish Period</HI>
051.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-51">Palou, <HI REND="italics">Relacio&acute;n histo&acute;rica</HI>
051.sgm:<P>If the Fathers did little for the Indians, they seem to have been successful with the soldiers and settlers, for, continues the narrative, "fearfull of some ill to happen from such Indians in the manner they talked, the Fathers applied themselves to keep the settlers and soldiers prepared for death so that they seemed more like monasteries than pueblos."  One Sunday just after the last mass, an immense number of Indians fell upon both settlements at the same moment, and but one man escaped death or captivity.  Not a great while afterwards the captives were delivered up to an expedition sent against the Indians.  I should not omit the beautiful vision of angels clad in white robes, with burning torches and chanting an unknown tongue and strain, that, according to the history, for many nights after moved in procession round and round the scene of martyrdom, giving joy to the captives, but striking such terror into the minds of the Indians, that they abandoned their lands and fled some eight leagues down the river!</p><P>This tragedy put a stop to the design which had been formed of establishing the new missions of California upon the plan of those on the Colorado.  Two of the existing missions of Santa Barbara county were immediately afterwards founded, with the happy results we have seen upon the Indians.</p><P>The recent military operations against the Yumas<ANCHOR ID="n1-52">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: have doubtless made the Government fully acquainted with their character, customs and resources; though, it must be confessed, a state of war does not afford the best opportunity to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:judge national character, whether Indian or civilized.  In respect to the Indian, too, we are very apt to overlook the causes which drive him to war.  Had the Yumas received no provocation in the spring and summer of 1850 from reckless white men--I allude to the circumstances attending the death of John Glanton--there is little probability that the heavy expenses of those military operations would have been incurred.  The State expedition that followed the massacre of Glanton's party, however well meant, made none but the most unfavorable impression upon them, in respect to the American character for bravery or our national power.  Let it be considered, also, that they have no doubt been greatly vitiated, and misled in relation to Americans, by the corrupt and worthless set of Sonoranians who have been passing through their country, within the last four years to and from the gold mines of California.  Under proper management, I believe, the Yumas will be found nearly, if not quite as tractable as the nations already spoken of.  To think of a Yuma in the light of a Sioux, or Camanche, where war is concerned, would be one of the strongest contrasts that could be presented.  Now, when at last they have come to know the power of our Government, they are better prepared to receive the next and best manifestation of its virtues, in some efficient plan for their improvement.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-52">The Morehead expedition; see p.xxiii.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>The Yumas are large, well-formed, sprightly, and intelligent in their appearance; are inveterate gamblers, like most of these Indians; still tolerate polygamy, but their women have a reputation for chastity.  A climate of perpetual summer does not call for much clothing; and, as there is very little rain, a house of brush thrown over a few poles answers every want.  What was true of their agriculture in 1776 is still true, except that they have added wheat to their products.  "They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:depend in a great measure upon the cultivation of the soil, for their support," says Russell Sackett, Esq., who spent a considerable time among them, "and although their cultivation is of the rudest kind, receiving little or no attention after the planting, yet their crops mature with an astonishing growth.  Their planting season is usually in the month of July, after the waters of the Colorado begin to fall.  They then seek those portions of the bottom lands that have been overflowed during the high water, and put in the crop.  These lands retain the moisture after having been once flooded, a sufficient length of time to produce a crop without any further irrigation.  The crops cultivated principally are corn, beans, peas, squashes, and melons, all of which they raise with very little labor.  Wheat also does well there.  It was put in about the first of January, and ripened about the first of June."</p><P>The distance from Los Angeles city to the mouth of the Gila is 280 miles; from San Diego about 2--miles, and somewhat less by the more southern route.  The Colorado river is navigable by steamboats from the gulf to the mouth of the Gila, and in the season of high water, which is from May to September, a boat drawing eight feet of water would usually find no difficulty in ascending far above the mouth of the Gila; and the Gila itself, at some seasons can be ascended by steamboats of light draught, such as are seen on the Ohio and Missouri waters, even to the villages of the Pimos (a distance of 190 miles by land from the mouth of the Gila.)  A further quotation from Mr. Sackett is worth[y] of attention, and reliable:</p><P>"The soil of the bottom lands along the Colorado and Gila rivers is exceedingly rich, and the climate in that section of the country is not surpassed in its salubrity by any in the world.  Above the confluence of the Colorado and the Gila, the former river runs for some distance very nearly south.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:this confluence it makes an angle and runs thence for a few miles, due west.  The tract of land lying within this angle, commencing fifteen or twenty miles below, reaching from the river back to the mountains, contains an area of thirty of forty square miles, and is all susceptible of cultivation.  But, in order to cultivate to any great extent, the land must be irrigated, and that will be attended with considerable expense, as the water must be taken out several miles above to get it on these bottom lands, as for damming the Colorado, I hold that it is impracticable.  The tract of country lying between the Colorado and Gila is also excellent land, and may be as easily cultivated and irrigated as that lying west of the Colorado.  The timber along the river, although abundant, is of poor quality, being none other than the cottonwood, willow and mezquit."</p><P>All observers concur in opinion, that the soil and climate are admirably fitted to the cultivation of cotton, rice, sugar, sweet potatoes, and nearly all the tropical fruits.  They possess natural resources of fruit, fish, and aquatic fowl, more abundantly than any of the other nations here spoken of, in addition to a soil capable of yielding them all necessaries of life, under the most indolent cultivation.  With an active industry inspired by the paternal counsels, and guided by the hand of an enlightened government, they may be able at no distant day, to raise themselves to a comfortable independence, if not to a high degree of prosperity and wealth.  In their vicinity they have a striking example for their own emulation, and not less to encourage our government, in the quiet, industrious and comparatively happy condition of the Pimos of Sonora.</p><P>I have already stated that their language is the same as that of the Dieguin&tilde;os; and, all other things considered, it does seem to me that Yuma and Dieguin&tilde;o are not so foreign in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:nature and habits, as to forbid the application of the same system of civilization to both of them.</p><P>The settlement of American citizens on the Colorado, in sufficient number to interfere seriously with the operations of such a system, is too remote a contingency for present consideration.</p><P>The Yumas may number 3,000 souls.</p><P>The Mohaves, of an equal number, (conjecturally), occupy the country north of the Yumas, and east and south-east of the Cahuillas.  All the information we have of them leads me to believe that they would be more easily managed than even the Yumas.  Their habits and natural resources for subsistence, are pretty much the same as those of the Cahuillas in the mountain villages; except that they cultivate the land to a greater extent, raising much wheat.</p><P>A formal visit to those nations would be very useful towards perfecting a plan for Congress at once to make a small appropriation for defraying the necessary expenses of presents, etc.</p><P>A word or two in conclusion.</p><P>Nowhere else in the United States is there a people once more than half-civilized that betray such signs of retrogradation as do most of those we have been contemplating.  With the aborigines whom the vivifying principles of American civilization thus far have touched at all, the word is onward!  Knowledge is perceptibly on the increase among them, if they know less than the Californian.  It is always improvement, even if they gain a little skill in the arts each year, beyond the acquirements of the proceeding one, and that skill yet inferior to the Californians'.  But <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
051.sgm: we have the other side of the Indian portraiture: To say the least, all is stationary.  The worst is a palpable tendency to utter demoralization and ruin.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:None will say that they do not deserve a better fate.  None here but see and lament their sad condition, and feel the urgent necessity for an immediate change.</p><P>The question is, <HI REND="italics">what shall be the remedy</HI>
051.sgm:?</p><P>For, longer delay clearly would not be just nor reasonable, nor consistent with any of the maxims which have heretofore guided the American government in its conduct towards the Indians.</p><P>There were not wanting patriots who deplored and condemned the secularization of the Missions, at the time and in the manner it took place.  Others would have retrieved its disastrous sequel of malversion and destruction, if the power had rested in their hands.  Let the innumerable petty revolutions of those days account for a part of the wrong suffered to be done to a people then undoubtedly semi-civilized.  Charity may throw her veil over all the rest--all, I mean, that lies beyond the reach of remedial justice.</p><P>At the close of the late war, a thousand extraordinary causes disarmed the energy of the Federal Government, so that only now it begins to be felt in California.</p><P>It is not strange that the State government, driven in its infancy to expenditures on the scale of an old empire almost, and busy the three years past with the perplexed affairs of its white population--and having very narrow sources of revenue withal--should not have impressed the salutary influences of a wise legislation upon the southern Indians, at a distance of six hundred miles from its capital, whose members were unknown and character completely misconceived.  Nor can it be imagined that the people of this State have ever desired, or will desire to put upon its treasury the burden of governing these Indians, and a hundred thousand more within its borders.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>Still less will they covet the greater burden and cost of an attempt to exterminate such a multitude of tribes, many of them savage and warlike, whose means and mode of life, though very meagre and very miserable, enable them to sustain an almost endless resistance.  After all, the experiment of extermination inevitably resolves itself into the better one of preservation and government, and, having wasted much blood and treasure, we are compelled to do at last, what it were always more discreet, as well as more humane and just, to do at the beginning.</p><P>An illustration occurs to me not without its lesson.  Two little expeditions made in the South since the spring of 1850--one against the Yumas, the other against Antonio Garra--cost the people of California at least $150,000.  Will any one believe that their results have been commensurate with what the same sum would have effected, if differently applied among the same southern Indians?  I have no hesitation in saying that such a sum would have put in operation and maintained three years, on the plan above proposed, the whole six Indian towns, and left them now flourishing and far on the road of progress!</p><P>Humanity, not war is the true policy for them.  This is the voice of all experience.</p><P>The hardships of their case may well claim the cooperation of the State authorities in the manner already indicated, but can only be provided for fully out of the munificence of the Union.</p><P>Five years more of indifference on the part of the Federal Government, added to the eighteen of neglect and injury now endured, is more than enough to fill up the cup of misery and complete their destruction.  Happily, the Government has not so much to contend with, as it had a short time since.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Soldiers adhere to their duty.  The extravagance of the "gold mania" is fast disappearing, and more rational ideas of the price of labor prevail.  Good men will serve for fairer salaries.  The Indians themselves, and their country are well understood.  There are, or ought to be, no "over-ruling circumstances" now to counteract the benign designs of the Government.</p><P>Meanwhile, the temper of the American people displays no less the warm benevolence that has kindled up so many enterprises in behalf of this race, and, I firmly believe, will be loth to confess itself unequal to the task which, under Spanish auspices, came so near glorious accomplishment.</p><P>I have the honor to be your obedient servant.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CONTEMPORARY COMMENT</HEAD>
051.sgm:<P>THE FIRST <HI REND="italics">impulse was to arrange the following statements under such headings as "The Indians of Los Angeles and vicinity," "Marauders from the desert," "Wilson and his report," and "Beale and the reservation at Tejon."  In real life these various aspects were not so neatly packaged, but were interrelated and intermingled, as they are, for that matter, in several of the individual comments.  It seemed wiser, therefore, to use a chronological arrangement, through which, it is hoped, the several topical factors can still be discerned</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><P>REDICK McKEE, GEORGE W. BARBOUR, AND OLIVER M. WOZENCRAFT, <HI REND="italics">Indian Commissioners for California</HI>
051.sgm:, TO LUKE LEA, <HI REND="italics">Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Camp Barlow, California, May</HI>
051.sgm: 15, 1851</p><P>. . .The Indians we have met here are generally a hale, healthy, good looking people, not inferior to their red brethren in the southwestern States; and, from having among them many who in early life were attached to the old missions of this country, have already some knowledge of letters, of stock-raising, and agriculture.  We think they will, therefore, make rapid improvement when schools, &amp;c., shall be established among them.</p><P>We have found by experience that the best way to keep these Indians of California quiet and peaceable is to give them plenty of food.  With beef occasionally, and a little flour to mix with the pulverized acorn, making their favorite <HI REND="italics">panoli</HI>
051.sgm:, nothing can induce them to quarrel with the whites....</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm:, 1851, p.485.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>GEORGE W. BARBOUR TO LUKE LEA <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, July</HI>
051.sgm: 28, 1851</p><P>. . .Immediately after concluding the treaty on King's river I despatched runners to the tribes north of Kearn river, desiring them to meet me on the Cahwia river, at a place designated, some thirty-five or forty miles distant from our camp on King's river.  As soon as provisions arrived from Stockton (distant about one hundred and eighty miles) for the troops, we moved on to the place appointed on the Cahwia river; on my arrival there, I found delegations had already arrived on the ground from some five or six tribes, and others were expected....I found them willing to treat...and on the 13th of May the treaty was formally signed, &amp;c.</p><P>The country given up by these tribes, or some of them, embraces some of the best lands in California, being a portion of what is known in this part of the State as the "Four creek country."  The country given to them is generally inferior, but has a sufficiency of good soil, water, &amp;c., to answer all their purposes for all time to come.  After agreeing upon the terms of the treaty, but before it had been drawn up and signed, I despatched runners to the other tribes north of Kearn river, and desired them to meet me on Paint creek, at a point designated, about forty miles south from our camp, on the Cahwia.  By forced marches, we reached the place designated on the evening of the 1st of June....Those tribes number about two thousand....I found them more intelligent, more athletic, and better qualified for either peace or war, than any Indians I have seen in California.  They were a terror to the Spaniards, being greatly their superiors in war; they have great influence over the neighboring tribes, and until very recently have been at war with the Cahwia and other tribes inhabiting the "Four creek" country.  On the 3d of June I concluded a treaty with them....</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>Having treated with all the tribes between the Sierra Nevada and the "coast range" north of Kearn river, and learning that there were several tribes near the terminus of the Tulare valley, and south of Kearn river, I immediately despatched runners to them, requesting them to meet me at the Texan (Tahone) Pass, about seventy-five miles distant from Paint creek.  I reached the Pass, at the southern extremity of the Tulare valley, on the night of the 6th; on the 7th the chiefs and captains of eleven tribes or bands, with the most of their people, came in; and on the 10th, I concluded a treaty with them, which was formally signed, &amp;c.; a copy of which I also enclose herewith to you.  This treaty embraced the last of the tribes in the San Joaquin and Tulare valleys, from the Stanislaus river north to the Los Angelos south, including the whole country from the top of the Sierra Nevada to the coast, embracing a district of country from four to five hundred miles in length, and from one hundred and fifty to two hundred in width.</p><P>The tribes included in the last treaty were mostly small bands, mere remnants of tribes once large and powerful; but, what with the drafts made upon them by the Spanish missions, (several of which are located just across the mountains, within the immediate vicinity,) for laborers, and the almost exterminating wars that, from time to time, have been carried on among themselves, together with the ravages of disease <HI REND="italics">intentionally</HI>
051.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n2-53">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: spread among them by the Spaniards who feared them, they have, in some instances, been almost annihiliated.  The Uvas, once among the most powerful tribes in the valley, have been, by such means, reduced to a mere handful, and do not now number more than twenty persons; and among the Texans [Tejons], I met with an <HI REND="italics">old man</HI>
051.sgm:, the last of his tribe, at one time a large and powerful tribe, but war and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:pestilence had done their work, and <HI REND="italics">he alone</HI>
051.sgm: was left to prove that such a tribe had once existed....</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-53">An unwarranted accusation.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm:, 1851, pp.493-98.]</p><P>INDIANS AND AGUA[R]DIENTE An examination took place on Tuesday last, before Justice Burrill, of four Indians, charged with stealing a barrel of aguadiente and a cloak, the property of Mr. Keller.  The Indians confessed the theft and were sentenced to be whipped, twenty-five lashes each, and to pay the expenses of the prosecution.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, July 17, 1852.]</p><P>FROM THE TULARE VALLEY A party of men who have been prospecting through the Tulare Valley, arrived in town yesterday.  They report that at the Four Creeks they found the Indians very insolent, but had no serious trouble with them.  There were some eight white men living about the Four Creeks, and forming a settlement for farming purposes.  Several days after our informants left the Four Creeks, some Indians came into their camp and reported that the eight white men above alluded to had been all killed by the Tulare Indians.  An attempt was made to return and ascertain the truth of the report, but the guides (friendly Indians) who evidently placed confidence in the statement, declined conducting them back, and the party came on to this city.  We give the story as we heard it, but if there is truth in it, we shall learn more in the course of a few days.</p><P>[Los Angles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, July 17, 1852.]</p><P>Recent information from the Tulare Valley leads us to believe that the whites at the Four Creeks have destroyed several rancherias in that vicinity, and that the rumor of the Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:having murdered eight white men there, as published last week, was premature.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, July 24, 1852.]</p><P>CALIFORNIA INDIANS The light that has been thrown upon the history of the Indians of Los Angeles county, in the interesting letters [by Hugo Reid] published in a series in the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, must have a practical tendency to ameliorate their condition.  No doubt every philanthropist, upon the perusal of those letters has asked, if nothing can be done for the prospective and permanent welfare of this unfortunate race.  In taking up this subject, I hope to suggest such measures as will secure the prospective good of the Indians of this Southern part of California.</p><P>I regard the policy pursued by Agents of the General Government towards our Indians as being at war with the interests of the people and of the Indians themselves.  That policy has crazed the heads of the leaders of the different tribes, induced pride, self-importance and clan-ships, which had almost ceased to exist; and had broken in upon the former order of things.  It has led to the abandonment of the ranchos and pueblos by the Indians almost entirely, each petty chief calling in the straggling members of his tribe from fields of labor, to swell his own importance by a show of numbers.  Such is the case with the Cahuillas and their chief, Juan Antonio, and other tribes.  The policy referred to, by affording sufficient provisions to the Indians to live upon without work, has created a grand "fiesta"; and the Indian servants have generally left their employers to gather to the festival; and idleness and consequent crime and outrage will be the result.  Indian leaders are rising in their own importance and that of their people; tribes which had almost ceased to exist are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:being collected together from all the neighboring ranchos and pueblos, and by concentration becoming more formidable.  The very feeding of them by the government, without the necessity of work, has become the most potent cause of their being daily rendered more formidable.</p><P>The lands which have been set apart to them favor the return of the Indian servants scattered over the country, to nationality separate, independent and superior to our State laws.  Already have complaints arisen as to these lands, which are every day increasing, and will ultimately lead to collision and bloodshed.  Before the arrival of the government agents, such a thing as property in lands had not entered the minds of our California Indians.  To be sure, some few instances existed of Indians quite civilized, whose claims to, and cultivation of lands, were respected; but these were rare.  Now, the idea having been implanted in the minds of the Indians, they will pertenaciously cling to the grants which have been laid out and given to their tribes.</p><P>Such have been a few of the mistakes and injuries inflicted upon us.  If Government was aware of the true state of things, the policy already begun would undoubtedly be changed.</p><P>The State of California has, from the first, treated the Indians as citizens, not sufficiently enlightened to have all the privileges of the citizens, to wit: in regard to the elective franchise, and giving evidence against their white neighbors; but in all other respects, and to all intents and purposes, citizens.  The idea of them as distinct tribes or petty nationalities, within the territory of the State, did not occur to the framers of our Constitution and Legislature, for the facts were all contrary to such hypothesis.  All Indians within our territory were required to render implicit obedience to our laws and respect to our officers, and were guaranteed the protection of the same.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Nor had the Indians any idea of a government among themselves that was not in direct subjection to our government and laws.  These facts are fully sustained by the Constitution, the Statute concerning the government and protection of Indians, passed April 22d, 1850, and by the uniform obedience of the Indians, in all judicial proceedings under said laws up to the present time.  To show the policy of our State towards the Indians, we quote from the statute:</p><P>"1.  Justices of the Peace shall have jurisdiction <HI REND="italics">in all cases</HI>
051.sgm: of complaints by, for, or against Indians in their respective townships in this State.</p><P>"2.  Persons and proprietors of lands on which Indians are residing, shall permit such Indians peaceably to reside on such lands, unmolested in the pursuit of their usual avocations for the maintenance of themselves and families, &amp;c.</p><P>"3.  Any person having, or hereafter obtaining a minor Indian, male or female, from the parent or relation of such Indian minor, and wishing to keep it, such person shall go before a Justice of the Peace, in his township, [who] shall give such person a certificate, authorizing him or her to have the care, custody, control and earnings of such a minor, until he or she obtain the age of majority."</p><P>In the next section the guardian is bound to clothe, feed, and properly treat such minor.<HSEP>PHILO.</p><P>(To be continued.)<ANCHOR ID="n2-54">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-54">The August 21 issue, which presumably had the second installment of this paper, has not been preserved.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, August 14, 1852.]</p><P>E. F. BEALE TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, October</HI>
051.sgm: 8, 1852</p><P>Enclosed I send you a commission as one of the Indian Agents for the State of California.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>You will see by the enclosed extracts from the letters of the Comr. of Indn. Affs. that your Salary will commence from the execution of your Bond &amp; oath of office.</p><P>Immediately on the fulfilment of these obligations you will transmit the bond to this office for approval and transmission to Washington.</p><P>It is impossible at this distance to direct your movements, and I therefore defer giving you instructions, until a personal interview and a visit to the Southern tribes puts me in possession [of] a full knowledge of our affairs in that part of the State.</p><P>(P. S.) You will execute the enclosed bond in the Penal sum of $5000. with two or more securities whose sufficiency must be attested by a United States Judge or District Attorney.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>A. C. RUSSELL TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, October</HI>
051.sgm: 15 [1852]</p><P>. . .It gives me pleasure to congratulate you on your appointment to the Indian Agency.  I bespeak a place on your "staff" the first trip you make to the mountains....</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>THE NEW INDIAN COMMISSIONER The universal expression of satisfaction at the appointment of Mr. Benj. D. Wilson to the office of Indian Commissioner is the surest evidence that the appointment is a good and proper one.  Mr. Wilson is thoroughly acquainted with the Indian character, and has visited most, if not all, the tribes within one hundred miles of this point.  In occasions of difficulty between themselves he is always looked to as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:mediator, and scarcely a week passes that does not bring some of the chiefs to his residence, invoking his aid and protection.  Mr. Wilson accepts the office as much from a desire to secure peace and justice to the Indians, as from a disposition to render to the government of the United States whatsoever service may be in his power.  We regard the appointment as securing permanent peace with all those tribes which have, in times past, been so troublesome to this country.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, October 16, 1852.]</p><P>THE TULARES Two of the chiefs of the Tulare Indians have been in town during the past week, endeavoring to seek redress for some alleged aggressions committed by their white neighbors.  They say that some white people have encroached upon their grounds near the Four Creeks and have taken prisoners several of their children.  Mr. Wilson, to whom their complaints were made, dismissed them with the promise that he would look into the matter and would use his endeavors to see them righted.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, October 16, 1852.]</p><P>JURUPA An indian boy named Felipe Valdez, was brought before Luis Robideux, the Justice of the Peace at Jurupa, on the 13th inst. charged with stealing $40, a pistol and a bottle of whiskey.  He confessed the charge, and was thereupon sentenced by the Justice to receive thirteen lashes.  The sentence was duly carried into effect.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, October 30, 1852.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>LO, THE POOR INDIAN When the Indian Appropriation Bill was before Congress last session, the House of Representatives cut down from 120,000 to 20,000 dollars, an appropriation which the Senate had adopted for protecting the Indians in California.  A committee of conference was chosen between the Senate and House, of which Mr. Gwin of California, was chairman.  Mr. Gwin, in making his report to the Senate, said:</p><P>"I must be permitted to express the mortification which I experienced at the ignorance displayed by those who represented the House on this committee, of the subject matter of our discussions--an ignorance that I fear, if permitted to rule the proceedings of that House, will prove disastrous to the best interests of the State I in part represent here."  Mr. Gwin said farther, in speaking of the necessity of making provision for the protection of the California Indians:</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">We have taken their acorns, grasshoppers, fisheries, and hunting grounds from them</HI>
051.sgm:.  The ponds where the wild fowl assembled in the winter, offering them for the time an abundant supply of food, is now the mining and agricultural region of our citizens.  The Indian must perish from cold and hunger if this Government does not interpose to save him.  From his hunting-ground we export an annual average of $60,000,000 in gold, and the revenue paid to the Treasury, from one port in California, exceeds $3,000,000 annually; and yet the miserable pittance of 120,000 to feed and protect these original inhabitants of the country, is refused and cut down to 20,000 dollars, by the grossly unjust policy adopted by the other House.  If this is to be the policy of this Government towards this people, it will form a dark page in our history, if it does not bring the vengeance of heaven upon us as a nation."</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, October 30, 1852.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>B. D. WILSON TO [E. F. BEALE] <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, November</HI>
051.sgm: 11, 1852</p><P>In reply to your communication bearing the same date of this, upon Examining the Invoice of Indian goods sent to you by the Govt. for presents to the Indians in California, first the Greater part of the goods are intirely useless such as the Indians do not use Consequently not worth moveing from San Francisco the other part say the cloths shawls &amp; calicos though not the articles wanted may answer some purpose &amp; I must say that my conviction is that the purchase was a bad one what our Indians want is something to eat, &amp; ware such as common Blankets brown domestic &amp;c but the principal with the Indians is something to Eat as in our climate clothing is a secondary consideration with the Indians.</p><P>[Signed draft, Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>E. F. BEALE TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, November</HI>
051.sgm: 22, 1852</p><P>You will assist this office, by giving me your opinion, as to the Section of Indian country most needing protection, and also as to the best means of shielding the Los Angeles district from Indian depredations.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>B. D. WILSON TO E. F. BEALE <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, November</HI>
051.sgm: 22, 1852</p><P>In reply to your request Respecting Indian affairs.  In the Southern portion of this State we consider the Indians commonly called the four creek Indians of the first Importance for the reasons as follows these Indian ocupy a central position in the Southern district of this State &amp; consiquently they Exercise a great influence over the other detached tribes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:living more Immeadeately upon our frontiers those Indians of the four creeks is the strong hold of all the San Joaquin Valey as well as the other mountain tribes living adjacently to them.  Though we have a large number of Indians commonly called the Cahuilla Indians &amp; San Luis Indians living upon our South Eastern borders still these Indian are Easily managed as they always have had &amp; necessarily must have a great intercourse with our Inhabitants &amp; are more disposed to be friendly.  We have a large number Indians liveing upon the <HI REND="italics">rio Colorado</HI>
051.sgm: these Indians do little or no mischief in our State.  they are a great annoyance to the Imigration and the travilling community.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>BENJAMIN HAYES TO SENATOR DAVID R. ATCHISON OF MISSOURI [ <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
051.sgm: ] <HI REND="italics">January</HI>
051.sgm: 14, 1853</p><P>At this time I wish to say a word or two touching on Indian Affairs.  Let me beg you to notice the Report of the Indian agent for this District, Benjamin D. Wilson, Esq.  I am acquainted, of my own knowledge, with nearly all the facts stated by him concerning the character of these Indians, the country they live in, their troubles for the last three years and the causes of them.  I have travelled over a great part of their country and camped in it.  My opportunities have been various and constant for observing them.  And I have given no little attention to the subject--more I suspect, than any other resident here, unless I except Mr. Wilson.</p><P>A man who has never mixed with these Indians, can have no idea of the utter difference between them and those of the Great Plains--whose character for the chase and war has so long baffled the benevolent designs of the Government.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Report ought to be printed by Congress and circulated generally in this State and elsewhere.  It presents the true plan for managing these Indians.  And the boldness with which he asserts the legal right of the Mission Indians to their property, in the face of the <HI REND="italics">speculators</HI>
051.sgm: in Mission titles, some of them otherwise his bosom friends, might immortalize some men, even of greater ability and in a higher station.</p><P>I am partly induced to write this letter--without his knowledge (for I shall not show it to him) by having heard this evening, that some half dozen worthy men who suppose the whole weight and responsibility of the different officers here is upon their shoulders, think of getting up a sort of recommendation of Don <HI REND="italics">Antonio F. Coronel</HI>
051.sgm:, for this office.  I know him intimately, respect him, and would do any thing reasonable to advance his interests.  He has been assessor of this county, is rather popular, clever and sprightly, has been active as a Democrat in the two political elections we have had here as yet--supported <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
051.sgm: warmly.  But, I cannot conscientiously favor him for this responsible post.  He is a Mexican by birth, but has been in California some years; he is not a "native Californian."  So that his appointment would be no extrordinary complement to the "native Californians" (as they are called.)  They might be flattered by something of the kind, for the matter of "nine days" or so; if any letters from here assert differently, I assure you, it's mere <HI REND="italics">stuff</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><P>I know the "Californians" well.  And all of them who would not associate with the idea of an Indian Agent the sole prospect of <HI REND="italics">dividing out the Indians by force to work on the ranchos</HI>
051.sgm:, would infinitely prefer some competent American to one of their own number, under present circumstances.</p><P>Candidly, this office ought to be filled by an American, or somebody who can speak English.  This seems to be a <HI REND="italics">sine</HI>
051.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<HI REND="italics">qua non</HI>
051.sgm:.  They are to be reared to the uses of American Civilization which cannot be easily separated from the language in which it expresses itself.  Mr. Coronel does not write, read, or speak English.  It is no desparagement of his other qualities, to say, frankly, that he has not that degree of <HI REND="italics">moral courage</HI>
051.sgm: requisite for an Indian agent in California.  There is an absolute necessity of having men here, of iron firmness, to execute the laws, without respect to local caprices, or interests, or prejudices.  I do not believe the Indian intercourse laws can be enforced here, by any but an American against Americans (of whom there may be plenty to violate them.)  This is a daily experience, in judicial and other proceedings.  Generally speaking, a "Californian" will not accept an office to which any similar responsibility is attached.  You could not get one, for example, to run for Sheriff or constable--not because he could not be elected; but for the reason, that he naturally shuns civil positions of difficulty or danger.</p><P>Besides, if you have such an Agent, all your sub-agents, must be of the same class.  Americans will not be under the control of such an Agent.  They will either resign, or they will control him; which, I suppose is not the spirit of the law.  The last would be the result invariably, and any system whatsoever become full of abuses.  I should tremble for the poor Indian subjected to them.</p><P>Moreover, grave questions are agitated in relation to the rights of these Indians--and of many white persons--under the old law in force here concerning the Missions, etc.  The men who took part in public transactions from 1834 to July, 1846, in California, might be good witnesses, in regard to them, but I will ask in sober earnest, would they be the best judges, or would they make the proper representatives of the rights and interests of others, which their own acts as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:legislators or otherwise, whether of omission or commission, may have directly affected?</p><P>The condition of the Indians during the period referred to, is a black page of history.  I believe, Mr. Coronel then was never more than <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
051.sgm:.  But it is readily seen, the Government needs men without even that connection with so unfortunate an epoch of Indian misrule, oppression, and injustice.  There is more in this objection than I can conveniently put to paper.</p><P>Mr. Wilson is an old mountaineer, and a gentleman in every sense of the word.  He is wealthy and independent--and so does not need this office.  His wealth has come to him in a measure suddenly, by the rise of property; after many "hard knocks" in the Rocky Mountains and here, before, during and since the war.  He has been in some little campaigns formerly against portions of these Indians, and knows them, and they know him well.  Before his appointment, their Chiefs visiting the City, habitually came to see and talk with him about their business, as much as if he were their Agent.  Notoriously he is a favorite with them--no stranger.  His good sense, kindness of heart, knowledge of mountain life, familiarity with all the tribes, and reputation for integrity of purpose, are difficult to combine in any one else that may be recommended from this quarter.  He reminds me a good deal of old Maj. Cummings, of Westport, Mo.</p><P>It would be good policy to keep him in this office, at any rate until some efficient plan is put in operation for the benefit of these Indians: the difficulty of making any plan work well is at the beginning.  A removal ought not to be made prematurely, or hastily.</p><P>There are many men watching these Indians--some Democrats (so-called) among them--but to make them the prey <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:of a grand <HI REND="italics">speculation</HI>
051.sgm:.  Think, for instance, of "beef cattle" at $75 per head--when they can be furnished slaughtered at any point you want them, where the Indians live, at $30 per head-- and this, with a princely profit.  Let care be taken, by inquiry into the position of men, lest such may not be one of the principal objects of some recommendations from here for the appointment of Agent.</p><P>A receiving agent lately gave a receipt for 1000 head of cattle.  I am credebly informed, the Indians deny the receipt of more than 300 head.  This was under one of the rejected treaties.</p><P>In one of his speeches Mr. Gwin has shown admirably how much California has been injured at Washington, by this extravagance and by unnecessary expenditures.<ANCHOR ID="n2-55">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-55"><P>A further extract from Hayes' letter to Atchison, January 14, 1853, is preserved in his diary:</p><P>"After considering the report of Mr. Wilson, if the President thinks a man of such sentiments ought to be removed, let it be done.  But I do trust the utmost caution will be observed in choosing his successor.  He claims to be a Whig.  One of a rather mild stamp, as he strikes my eye, and not very dangerous to Democracy.  A man is not apt to be much of a politician who has not been in `the States' for nineteen years, and has been roughing it all that time in mountains and deserts.  I assure you that there are not a dozen of the six hundred Democrats in this county who really desire any change in this office, believing that it is now in experienced and faithful hands.  If I had time, I might back these suggestions with the concurrent signatures of nearly all the people of Southern California."</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Pioneer Notes</HI>
051.sgm:<P>[Draft, Hayes Scrapbooks, Bancroft Library, XXXIX, 121.]</p><P>INDIAN MATTERS</p><P>We have been permitted to exanine the report of B.D. Wilson, Esq., Indian Commissioner for the Southern District of California, upon the condition of the Indians coming particularly under his supervision.  Besides the statistical and other valuable information contained in the report, it suggests a plan for the future government of the Indians, strictly philanthropic, and which, if carried out, cannot fail to benefit a people once more than half civilized, but now exhibiting such signs of retrogression and decay as must be deplored by every humane heart.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>After giving a sketch of each tribe, their habits, customs, etc., at present and also under the Mission system, Mr. Wilson recommends the following plan for their management:</p><P>It is proposed that the lands within the following boundaries be reserved for the use of the different Indian tribes now inhabiting those regions:  A line drawn from the eastern boundary of Santa Isabel direct to the N.E. corner of the Laguna rancho, (thereby including Temecula and Agua Caliente,) thence along the northern boundary of Laguna, so as to include the San Jacinto rancho and the tract commonly known as San Gorgonio--the whole distance, say 100 miles; thence in a direct course 80 miles to the Tejon, (including the rancho of that name;) thence 100 miles to the Four Creeks; the remainder of the boundary to be completed by running a line due south, say 40 miles, from Santa Isabel to the boundary between Mexico and the United States.  The respective limits of this boundary could be defined as conveniently as counties are elsewhere.  Not one thousand acres of this territory are now occupied by the cattle or crops of white men, and only two white men now reside upon any part of it.  The Mexican claims can be quieted for a reasonable sum, and more easily than the Indian title can be extinguished.  At the present time these lands are mere wastes, as far as the hand of man has anything to do with them.</p><P>Mr. Wilson recommends one principal town or pueblo at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:each reserve.  There would be eight towns, one at each of the following places: At the Four Creeks, the Tularen&tilde;os, about 1000 Indians; at the Tejon, Tularen&tilde;os, 1000; San Gorgonio, Cahuillas, 1500; San Jacinto, Cahuillas, 1500; Temecula, San Luisen&tilde;os, 1000; Agua Calientes, Dieguen&tilde;os, 1000; Mouth of Gila, Yumas, 1000; and on the Upper Colorado, Mohaves, 1000.  The establishment of towns at the Gila and Colorado might be delayed for some time and until the working of the system should prove to be advantageous.</p><P>It is estimated that 1000 head of cattle, with their own natural resources, would be sufficient to support them six months; the cattle could be delivered slaughtered, at the villages, for $30,000.  Then too, they would require a small supply of clothing, blankets, &amp;c.  After the first six months, they would not only support themselves, but have a surplus.  They have done this before, and would do it again.  The productions should be kept common stock, and dealt to them in daily or tri-weekly rations--The lands of each town should also be held as common lands, until it became expedient to dispose otherwise; individual concessions might be made to the more industrious.</p><P>The immediate control of the affairs of each village would be entrusted to an agent appointed specially for the purpose.  The agent could give permission to some of the Indians to bind themselves out to the rancheros for a term not to exceed one year, but as a general thing the Indians would be required to reside in their respective territories.  A blacksmith, carpenter, and farmer should be employed for each village, to teach the Indians agriculture and the mechanic arts; and schools for the instruction of the young should be established upon some uniform system.  It is thought the expense of carrying into successful operation the mode of government suggested by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Mr. Wilson, will not exceed the cost of one of the numerous expeditions which have been undertaken against the Indians since the organization of our state government.</p><P>The report contains a vast fund of information, and the publication of it will be an important addition to the cause of science.  The views of Mr. Wilson touching the management of the Indians become important at this time, when the whole course of Legislation seems tending towards the extermination of the Indian race.  If the government of the U. States desires the preservation of the Indians, some system must be adopted similar to that proposed by Mr. Wilson.  It could be put in operation here most effectually, for the various tribes hereabout have a vivid recollection of the "good old days" of the Missions, and they desire now, more than ever before, the protection and care of their white neighbors.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, January 15, 1853 (clipping in Hayes Scrapbooks, XXXVIII:121).]</p><P>PRAISEWORTHY The wretched, worthless wo-begone Indians who, as regularly as Sunday comes around, occupy our city prison on charges varying from drunkenness to stealing, making disturbances in the streets, stabbing, &amp;c., were last Monday employed by the city authorities in the healthful and benevolent occupation of clearing away the rubbish which has been accumulating for a long time in the streets, and the result of their labors is certainly an improvement in the general aspect of affairs.  The plan adopted seems to be [an] admirable one, and it is to be hoped it will be continued.  If Indians <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
051.sgm: get drunk and kick up a row, why let them work it out.  If white men do the same, why--"let'em rip."</p><P>[Editorial, Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, February 12, 1853.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>JUSTIN McKINSTRY TO BENJAMIN HAYES <HI REND="italics">San Diego, February</HI>
051.sgm: 25, 1853</p><P>I have not the pleasure of a personal acquaintance with B.D. Wilson Esq, Indian Agent resident in your city, but have written to him Soliciting his Kind assistance and co-operation in my endeavors to prepare for publication a Memoir of the Missions &amp; Indians of this State.  Will you do me the favor to call upon him and endeavor to induce his assistance.  If so I will take it as a very great personal favor.  We have nothing new.  Old town is dying of ennui.</p><P>P.S. During the past year a series of articles on the Indians by Hugo Reid, I am told appeared in the Star.  Will you be kind enough to procure &amp; send copies to me?</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>RUMORS FROM SAN GORGONIO Frequent rumors reach our city from San Gorgonio, that the Indians are deprived of the use of the water, by Mr. Weaver, and that in consequence they are unable to sow their grain.  We hope the rumors may not prove true; for the acts complained of are outrages which may provoke retaliation.  The law expressly provides that the Indians shall retain uninterrupted possession of lands they may have occupied for a series of years.  Moreover, these Indians are Juan Antonio's Cahuillas, with whom Gen. Bean formed a treaty, pledging the faith of the State that they should not be molested so long as they observed its terms.  Thus, to deprive them of any of their former privileges would be a violation of both the law and the treaty, and may lead to serious difficulties.  We hope Mr. Weaver appreciates the importance of maintaining inviolate the pledged faith of the State with these Indians, and the dangers he may incur by provoking them to hostilities.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, February 26, 1853.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>HORSES STOLEN AND RECOVERED We have a rumor, the truth of which is well attested, that a few days since, a band of Pah-Utahs stole two bands of horses, from the rancho of Ignacio Palomares.  They were pursued and the horses retaken except five, which the Indians had killed for food.  The Pah-Utahs are wild Indians of the Desert.  They are expert thieves, and are under no control of our government.  This band of Indians are said to be, at present, in the San Fernando Valley.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, February 26, 1853.]</p><P>B.D. WILSON TO BENJAMIN HAYES <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, February</HI>
051.sgm: 27, 1853</p><P>My official Duties at present require my presents in los Angeles County as I have Several appointments made to see the different Captains of the different tribes north &amp; south of this City.  I am also apprised of the necessity of the presence of some authorized person among Indian Villages of San Diego County who might be of Great Service at this time Especially giving them some tools &amp; other little presents to facilitate there planting &amp;c.  They being no sub-agents appointed as yet for these two counties and it not being in my power for the reasons given above to visit San Diego for some time to come am feeling anxious that nothing Shall remain undone that comes under my Jurisdiction and being informed that you on your official Duty leave in a few days for that place and as I Know of no person in whom I have more implicit confidence than yourself and that you have as much or more acquaintance than almost any other person with these Indians--I hereby appoint you to act as Sub-Agent during your stay in San Diego County and request &amp; hope you will visit all the villiges in your power &amp; make such distributions among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Indian as in your judgment may be done with limited me[ans] that I am prepared to give to you for that purpose (Three hundred dollars) Hoping you will be so kind as to report on your return all the information relative to the Indians that comes under your observation during your absence</p><P>[Draft, Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>In our last number we reported certain thefts of horses made by the wild Indians, but we did not mention a large number of horses and broken mules stolen at the same time from Don Julian [Isaac] Williams without a one being recovered, and a considerable number from Don Ignacio Palomares, of which, although most were retaken, the rest were lost by the arrows of the Indians.</p><P>A few days later, they stole from Don Juan A&acute;vila eight horses that were tied near [Williams'] house on the ranch, and with these they ran off one hundred and fifty animals, and, although these were recovered, many were lost in the same manner as with Palomares' horses.  On Friday of last week they stole a herd of more than a hundred horses from Don J. Serrano and the next day about fifty saddle horses from Don Juan A&acute;vila.</p><P>As soon as he had the news, Don Juan Fo[r]ster gathered a force of thirty men from among the neighboring rancheros and set off in pursuit of the Indian raiders.  Following their trail by the horses which the Indians left killed by their arrows, they entered the range of Santiago, [but] because of nightfall lost the trail.  On this account they decided to go to the northern side of the range and wait for the Indians to come out.  At dawn Fo[r]ster's party joined that of Don Juan A&acute;vila and Jose&acute; Sepulveda, which had been pursuing the earlier <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:raiders for a week.  Together the parties formed a force of about fifty men.  They proceeded to take the most active measures for another six days.  But notwithstanding these efforts, they could not find a sign of the last band of robbers, due to the fact that the Indians had discovered a new route different from the usual ones.</p><P>After this time lost, the neglect of their affairs, the leaving of their families exposed to the risk of another attack by the savages, and having lost hope of getting revenge, they returned home to wait until the Indians should come back for the few horses they had left and perhaps to kill them and their families.</p><P>We call this to the attention of our representatives in order that in the ways and means which they consider convenient it may be made clear that the Indians who despoil this county are distant tribes, not the peaceful Indians who are in our vicinity.  It is very sad that after the payment of enormous taxes our lives and properties are not secure.</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">La Estrella</HI>
051.sgm:, April 2, 1853.<ANCHOR ID="n2-56">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: ]</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-56">Translated from the Spanish section of the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:<P>THE INDIANS AGAIN We last week published two communications on the subject of the recent thieving incursions of the Pah Utahs in this county; one from Mr. Wilson, the Government agent, the other from a gentleman who has suffered by the loss of stock, giving an account of the stealing of a cavallada of horses from Col. Williams.<ANCHOR ID="n2-57 ">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm: This week, also, reports have been every day brought into town of continued robberies, but so vague and indefinite are most of them, that we do not care to publish all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:the details.  We all know this, however, that the depredations of the Indians are a great annoyance to our farmers; that they are fast draining the wealth of the county in more respects than one, not only in the amount of stock stolen, but the insecurity which is felt by all is a great hindrance to successful farming and grazing operations, and occasions an additional expense in the care of the animals.  We have suffered a long time from this source, during which we have had several "Indian Wars," the result of each of which has been a vast addition to the debt of our already deeply involved States; several "straw" treaties, which amount to nothing at all, unless, indeed, they serve to keep the fires of discord continually kindled by the examples which they furnish each party of the treachery and unfaithfulness of the other, and a feeling of insecurity and want of confidence in any Government or State force, to afford protection or redress.  Military stations we have, to be sure, but the troops are all infantry, and of course of about as much use as a padlock without a key.  Of the amount of <HI REND="italics">negative</HI>
051.sgm: good they accomplish we cannot judge, but we know the positive benefit which they afford is just none at all.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-57">The preceding number for March 26 has not been preserved, but see the preceding item.</NOTE>
051.sgm:<P>In view of these facts, and our present situation, we confess that, however unprecedented or bold it may appear to some, the plan proposed by Mr. Wilson, seems to us to be the only one by which we can better our condition; and it is so feasible, and can be accomplished with so little expense, that we should like to see it carried into effect at once.  We are informed that the Indians who make these forays are but about one hundred in number, and that a detachment of from ten to fifteen only, come in at a time.  They inhabit a place to the north of the Tejon Pass, about six days journey from this city.  A party of fifty to seventy five men could easily proceed to their camp, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:give them a whipping--one too, that they would remember--and get back again in two or three weeks.</p><P>Now that the proposition has been broached, it remains for those interested to carry it into effect.  The rancheros and farmers are the ones who suffer.  Let them turn out as strong as possible, and should they lack in numbers, we doubt not plenty of men could be found to assist them, were they furnished with animals; and a blow can be struck, the effects of which will be salutary and lasting.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, April 2, 1853.]</p><P>RAPE Juan, an Indian, was cited before Justice Dryden on Thursday, on a charge of rape committed on the person of a California woman, named Juana Ivarra.  The woman testified that she was returning to the rancho de Arollo Seco, her home, on the 18th ult., and that when a short distance from town, the Indian came up with her, and after almost completely divesting her of her clothing, rudely assaulted and finally violated her person.  The accused was committed to jail, there to await the action of the Grand Jury upon the same.  The Grand Jury meets on the 4th inst.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, April 2, 1853.]</p><P>INDIAN VISIT About 100 Indians from San Luis Rey honored our city with a visit yesterday.  They came for the purpose of paying their respects to the Indian Agent, (Indians always have an eye to business) and to collect some presents.  In accordance with the authority vested in him, Mr. Wilson distributed some agricultural implements among them, the receipt of which seemed to give them infinite satisfaction.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, April 2, 1853.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>FRED BUEL TO B.D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, April</HI>
051.sgm: 23, 1853</p><P>. . .I see that Wozencraft and McKee are being hauled over the coals by Lt. Beale.  I hope the agent at the South will be continued in office and save the country from being cheated and the indians from abuse....</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>INDIAN DEPREDATIONS Editors of the Star:--Indian depredation, so common in this Southern portion of our State, is a matter of such frequency and importance, that any light upon the subject to the community would no doubt be of interest.  About a month ago, when the Indians from the Tejon were here on a visit, I made all the inquiry possible to get information relative to the supposed horse thiefs.  They then told me that they knew the Indians that annoyed us so much.  I asked them to make a visit to those Indians, as they said they were friendly with each other, which they promised to do.  On the second of this month, one of those captains came in to advise me of the result of these visits, which was as follows:</p><P>These horse thieves inhabit the region of country bounded on the north by Owen's Lake, and on the head branches of Kerne river, about three days' travel from the Tejon, in a northeasterly direction.  They are a small tribe, not supposed to number over fifty warriors.  The captains of these thiefes told the Tejon Indians that the parties which steal horses, are headed by two renegade Indians, who have each about seven or eight young men that follow them, and that these two divide their time so as one can come every new moon; and that they always take animals.  They kill a large portion of them, and sell the balance to Indians living north [of] Owen's lake.  They also sell to the American emigrants, for blankets, &amp;c.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>The Tejon Indians assure me that the captains of these thieves, are opposed to these indians' stealing; and are, as they believe, disposed to give up the principal thieves for punishment.  And the Tejon Indians have now promised to go, in a large body, on another visit, and try to capture the thieves.  They say if they fail that they would like to join a party of Americans and go and take them.  They say by going by the Tejon that they will go as guides, and that there is good grass and water every night.  That these Indians are easy of access, and can be easily captured by a small party.  That the way they have usually been pursued, down the Mojave river, is much farther and a bad country, neither water nor grass, and on that route, they always manage to elude their pursuers.</p><P>I am satisfied that the above statement is about correct; and I am also satisfied that any treaty made with these Indians, without their first feeling our power, would be of no avail.--How easy for those interested to make up a party and pay them a visit, and convince them that they can no longer steal with impunity.<HSEP>B.D.W.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, May 7, 1853.]</p><P>BETTER TIMES There were fewer drunken Indians seen about the streets last Saturday than is usual on that day, and in consequence it passed off without the noise and brawling which are apt to characterize our Sabbaths.  The credit of this change for the better is due to our new City Marshal, Mr. Beard, who, since his election has been untiring in his efforts to preserve order and discharge all the duties which his office imposes upon him.  He has been particularly "down" upon that portion of our community who make their living by selling liquor to the Indians, and we hope he will continue in his exertions to bring all such to an account.  If he can succeed in removing this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:fruitful source of trouble and disgrace, he will richly deserve the thanks of the community.</p><P>[Editorial, Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, May 14, 1853.]</p><P>BY FORCE OF HABIT</p><P>Juan Gonzalis was brought before Justice Dryden last Tuesday, on a charge of selling intoxicating liquor to Indians, and was allowed to depart after a short conference with his honor, by a fine of twenty dollars and costs--in all $41.  His excuse was that he had "got into the habit of doing it."  Our new City Marshal has kindly volunteered to assist in breaking him of the "habit," for which Mr. Gonzalis should be, and doubtless is, duly grateful.</p><P>During the whole week our vigilant District Attorney has been very active in prosecuting cases of the above class.  A.W. Timms was fined $20 and costs for selling liquor to Indians, and Peter Collins for a like offence was mulched in the same amount:--all, before Judge Burrell.  Alexander Ramon was complained of on two separate charges of same nature, on each of which he was convicted and fined $20 and costs.  Eugene Agaia was also called upon to fork over $20 and costs for furnishing Indians the wherewith to get drunk, which amount Judge Dryden received from him on behalf of the county.  To Mr. Beard belongs the credit of bringing these offenders to an account, and to Attorney Dimmick that of their earnest and successful prosecution.</p><P>Now if Mr. Beard will only overhaul some of the larger establishments, a great deal of whose support is derived from the same business, and break them up, every good citizen will be loud in his praise.</p><P>[Editorial, Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, May 14, 1853.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>INDIAN AFFAIRS Lt. Beale, the Superintendent of Indian affairs in this State, is on his way hither, and may be expected to arrive sometime during the present month, via Walker's Pass.  From the law concerning Indian reservations we make the following extract:</p><P>"That the President of the United States is authorized to make five military reservations from the public domain in the State of California, or the territories of Utah and N. Mexico bounding on said State, for Indian purposes.  Provided that such reservations shall not contain more than 25,000 acres.  That such reservations shall not be made upon any lands inhabited by citizens of California, and the sum of $250,000 is hereby appropriated to defray the expense of subsisting the Indians in California, and removing them to said reservations for protection."</p><P>The reservations in the Southern part of the State will be selected upon the arrival of Mr. Beale--the immediate agency in connection with the details of the management being entrusted to B.D. Wilson, Esq., of this city.  A synopsis of Mr. Wilson's plan for the government of the Indians was published in this paper last winter, and if it is carried out will ensure the welfare of the Indians and the security of the whites living upon our frontiers.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, June 4, 1853.]</p><P>F.E. KERLIN TO B.D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, June</HI>
051.sgm: 11, 1853</p><P>I wrote you a letter a few days since telling you I would send you some blanks.</p><P>With regard to your accounts, it will be necessary for you to be very particular about your vouchers, stating in them the reasons for purchaseing everything, or the reasons for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:travelling &amp;c. and take vouchers for all moneys you have spent.  I enclose to you a blank, for Property Return, should you have any property belonging to the Government.  Every article however trifling that is in the vouchers must be accounted for, on this blank.  Where any is lost, or broken account for it as so, giving (if possible) a certificate from some disinterested person to that effect.  For anything given to the Indians, also send a certificate if possible, and return it as issued to such &amp; such Indians.  It is necessary to be very careful of this Return.  The next is the Account Current, which you know how to fix.  The next, and last is the Abstract of disbursements which is merely an enumeration of the Vouchers.  I believe this is all I have to tell you excepting that you are only accountable for $2500. the rest paid you was for Salary &amp; we have your voucher's.  If you come up yourself when you send your accounts, and wish any assistance I will give you any in my power with much pleasure.</p><P>This is a <HI REND="italics">Private</HI>
051.sgm: letter <HI REND="italics">not official</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>SHOOTING An Indian suspected of having furnished tools to a prisoner in order to aid his escape, was shot by the jailor Mr. Whitehorne, through the head and leg, yesterday afternoon.  The Indian lives, and may recover, the ball having glanced round the skull.  We presume there will be a legal investigation of the transaction.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, June 18, 1853.]</p><P>FOUND DEAD An Indian, named Bacilio, was found dead near the zanja at the upper end of town, this morning.  Justice Dryden and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:jury sat on the body: verdict, "death from intoxication, or the visitation of God."  Bacilio was a Christian Indian and was confessed by the reverend padre, yesterday afternoon.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, June 18, 1853.]</p><P>Hon. J. J. Warner, of San Diego, sends us the following:</p><P>On Thursday evening, June 9, about seven o'clock, four men, supposed to be Sonoren&tilde;os, having with them about forty head of horses, arrived at the rancho of Andres Ibarra, about twenty miles from San Luis Rey, and without provocation fired upon the family, wounding one person in the leg.  They then tied three men who were living at the rancho, and after plundering the house of wearing apparel and some money, started off for San Marco, where they killed two bullocks.  The following day they were pursued by a party from San Diego until dark, when, being unable to follow the trail, the pursuit was abandoned.  Messages were sent to several Indian tribes directing them to capture the marauders.  It is supposed that the robbers have gone to the mountains about San Marco to dry their beef.  Eight horses were stolen from Santa Margarita on Wednesday one of which was found tied out between Ibarra's and San Marco.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, June 18, 1853.]</p><P>FEROCIOUS On Thursday last, and Indian attacked an old gentleman named Valdez, inflicting a severe wound with a knife upon the head.  Valdez retreated toward the house of Hon. Stephen C. Foster, warding off with his blanket many blows which the Indian struck at him.  Mr. Foster and his servant seized and disarmed the Indian, and handed him over to the authorities.  He made desperate resistance, striking with his knife at Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:Foster, who would without doubt have been wounded had it not been for the timely interference of his servant.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, June 18, 1853.]</p><P>Lieut. Beale, Indian Superintendent in California, has started for the Pacific from St. Louis.<ANCHOR ID="n2-58">*</ANCHOR>
051.sgm:</p><P>The St Louis <HI REND="italics">Democrat</HI>
051.sgm: says:</p><P>He will travel the route indicated by Fremont and Leroux--the Cansar route to the Huerrino, through the Pass El Sangre de Christo, into the head valley of the del Norte, and the Puerto Pass from the valley of San Luis to the waters of the great Colorado of the West, and thence to California by Las Vegas de Santa Clara and Walker's Pass.  Superintendent Beale is not employed upon any survey for a road, but merely takes this route as his line of travel in returning to his Superintendency, and finds the greater charm in it because some part of the route is new and its practicability disputed.  Col. Benton goes with him to the frontier of Kansas to speak to the people of the Western counties at that place, on the Great Railway project.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-58">On Beale's journey the principal source is Gwinn Harris Heap, <HI REND="italics">Central Route to the Pacific</HI>
051.sgm:...  <HI REND="italics">in</HI>
051.sgm:<P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, June 18, 1853.]</p><P>LEWIS A. FRANKLIN, <HI REND="italics">Justice of the Peace</HI>
051.sgm:, TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Diego</HI>
051.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
051.sgm: 5, 1853</p><P>I send you the accompanying document, as from your position officially, and publicly (as Captn of Rangers) I am led to believe you are in position to see justice done to the Injured Indian, and may prevent not alone, any personal resentment <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:but that engendered hatred between the race of Indians and de razon, which has too frequently been the cause of bloodshed.  The men reputed to have committed this gross outrage live in your county, and the only reason that I have not issued a writ of arrest is that I have not had time to have the girl and boy before me under examination so as to constitute a legal charge.  So soon however as this can be done all that the Law permits of my doing shall be promptly complied with, ad interim I solicit your investigation into the affair and the same will always be gratefully reciprocated by</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>CAVE J. COUTS, <HI REND="italics">Subagent, San Diego County</HI>
051.sgm:, to B.D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Guajomito Rancho</HI>
051.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
051.sgm: 15, 1853</p><P>In compliance with your verbal instructions, I have the honor to inform you that, according to the best information I can get, after diligent inquiries, the number of Indians in the County, exclusive of those beyond the Rancho San Jacinto &amp; on the Colorado, cannot be far from <HI REND="italics">Three Thousand-five hundred</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><P>Those between San Jacinto, or that region of the County, and the Colorado, you have the better means of judging.  But I might safely put the whole number in the County at 5,000 <HI REND="italics">Souls</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library]</p><P>CAVE J. COUTS TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Guajomito Rancho</HI>
051.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
051.sgm: 25, 1853</p><P>Several of the old Indians here, those who were principals among the Indians in the construction of the magnificent old mission, have asked me "if they could not live in the building until such time as the Govt. may want to use it," or "during the rainy season."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>There are a number of these old Indians, with families, who have been sufficiently civilized at the Misn., to command considerable respect with the whites who know them well.</p><P>Andres, Pedro, Antonio, Samuel, and others in the immediate vicinity of the building, probably all of whom you know, and treated with great consideration by that portion of our citizens who know them well, for their industry and care, in managing their gardens &amp; little stock.  They spent their best days laboring in this building, and as it is unoccupied (except by three soldiers detached from a company at S. Diego) I cannot see but that their request is <HI REND="italics">very reasonable</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><P>Their only object seems to be, to live there during the "rainy season," and evince every disposition to leave as soon as notified.  In the spring they move off to their garden spots, and there remain under their temporary sheds until their crops are gathered.</p><P>If this should meet your approbation, I have no doubt but that upon your application at <HI REND="italics">Washington</HI>
051.sgm:, it would be readily granted.</p><P>P.S. The Vineyard difficulty at the Portrero, has been settled.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>JOEL H. BROOKS TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Tejon</HI>
051.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
051.sgm: 20, 1853</p><P>We have just received a letter from the four creeks written by the county clerk and sent by an indian, informing us that they have taken up Samuel Lago and examined him before a justice's court on a charge of theft with an attempt to Murder. the charges against him were Sustained by testimony Sufficient to induce the Magistrate to commit him for a hearing before the court of Sessions.</p><P>Lago was the leader of the party who attempted to commit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:a robbery on the Tajone indians a few days ago by stealing their horses, and were deterred by my timely interference.</p><P>The indian runer who brought the letter from the four creeks, States that the Same party on their way up killed an indian and woonded an other Somewheres on Tulare River, this newes he learned on his way to this place, and States that the citizens of Woodvill had not heared of this up to the time of his leaving their.</p><P>I shall Start to the county Seat day after tomorow for the purpose of enquiring into the matter and if they have murdered any indians, I Shall take the necessary Stepps to have them arrested, In the mean time I Shall appear on the part of the State, and in behalf of the indians Against Lago.</p><P>I Supose that the way Lago came to be taken up was on account of our Sending up a runer to inform them of what had occured here and the result was that he arrived at Woodville before them and they Succeeded in taking up Lago and getting the two Stolen horses, which are now in the hands of the Sheriff, and will be delivered to their proper owners, on application made by us.</p><P>P.S. As I Sent down a Sketch of this affair to Mr. Louis [John A. Lewis] Editor of the Star, you will please Show him this.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>E. F. BEALE TO GEORGE W. MANYPENNY, <HI REND="italics">Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
051.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
051.sgm: 22, 1853</p><P>. . .My instructions render it imperative that I should abolish the present agencies, and I shall therefore issue the requisite notice to Mr. Wilson at once, though I shall be obliged to employ him in some other capacity, as it is impossible to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:dispense with his services at present.  He is perfectly indifferent as to holding office--a gentleman of great wealth and high standing here--and would only consent to serve from a sincere desire to benefit this portion of the country, in which a long residence has made his influence with the Indians extremely great.  I would add also that he never sought the position of agent, but was appointed by the last administration without ever knowing it until I sent him his commission.  I shall employ him as temporary assistant to superintend the removal of Indians and to aid in locating reservations, his knowledge of the country being perfect, and to  Mr. Wilson will only consent to give his assistance in any capacity for a short time, not to exceed next spring....</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm:, 1853, p. 468.]</p><P>B. D. WILSON TO E. F. BEALE <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
051.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
051.sgm: 28, 1853</p><P>I have in my possession your official communication bearing date 22nd Inst. in which you inform me that the Indian Agencies are abolished.  but that you require my services as an assistant agent to aid you in effecting your arrangements with the Indians in this portion of the State; which I acept and I am at your service to perform any duty you command in the above service.</p><P>I will prepare my accounts immedeatily and forward them to your office at San Francisco.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>ARRIVAL OF LIEUT. BEALE. Lieut. Beale, Superintendent of Indian Affairs, arrived in Los Angeles on the 27th ult., himself and company all being in fine health.  They left Westport, Missouri, on 15th June, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:but lost 18 days, in consequence of having upset a canoe, with their arms and equipment, in crossing Grand river, a branch of the Colorado.  This accident compelled them to delay at that point, until a new supply could be got from Fort Massachusetts, New Mexico,--a distance back of 400 miles, which Mr. Heath accomplished and returned in 18 days.  They traveled with pack mules altogether, having no other provisions than pinole and pemican, and wild game with which their hunter supplied them plentifully every day!</p><P>From Fort Massachusetts, they took the route described by Leroux in a statement quoted at length by Col. Benton in a recent letter, and which our readers are referred to: the distance from the Fort to Los Angeles being 1077 miles.  Lt. Beale describes it as abounding the whole way, to within 150 miles of Los Angeles, with wood, water, and the most luxuriant pasturage--an easy wagon road, and perfectly practicable for the proposed railroad.  They had no guide, who might have enabled them to cut off much of the distance.  The distance from Fort Massachusetts to Westport, or Independence, is about 750 miles.  They had no trouble with Indians.</p><P>On Wednesday last, the Lieut.'s company--nine in all--with B. D. Wilson, Esq., Indian agent for southern California, started for San Francisco, by the Tejon, Tulare Valley, etc., intending to visit the Indians on the route; they expect to return in about a month, to complete the necessary arrangements for establishing a Reserve for the Indians of Los Angeles and San Diego counties, either at San Luis Rey Mission, or Temecula.  Too much praise cannot be given to Lt. Beale, for the energy and perseverance which he has shown in conducting his little expedition, so successfully, to its destination--occupying in all only fifty travelling days.  We trust fervently, that now we are to have a complete change for the better, in the aspect of Indian affairs for California, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:must take place if the efforts of the government and its agents meet with a proper sympathy and consideration, from the people of this state.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, September 3, 1853.]</p><P>B. D. WILSON TO MRS. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Tejon, September</HI>
051.sgm: 4, 1853</p><P>We have been at this place two days &amp; we have all been perfectly well I feel great anxiety about your health and if it was not for so much anxiety about you I should enjoy my trip well as we find the weather Exceedingly pleasant and plenty of game.  Indian all very quite.  We have about 50 men camped here all of the serveying party looking out a a rail Road route for the Great Pacific R Road among the party of Serveyors I find Lt. Stoneman of the Army who will leave here tomorrow, for Los Angeles I have told him to call &amp; see you.  he is an old acquaintance of mine and very much of a Gentleman.  I write you these few lines by some Indians who Mr. Beales sends in for his mules &amp; some provisions you will see Mr. Sanford &amp; have Mr. B. letter sent to Andrew Sublettes as it asked Mr. Sublette to deliver to the Indian the mules immediately as we wish their return as soon as posible we will remain here Six days yet to wait the return of the mules from Los Angeles and in the mean time we have sent out to call in all the bordering tribes and to have a <HI REND="italics">big Indian talk</HI>
051.sgm: with them.  Mr. Beale will make this place a reserve for the Indians and a beautiful place it is for that perpose when we get through making the necessary arrangementshere for the Indians then we shall make a force march for Stockton and San Francisco from which place I will immediately come to Los Angeles.  You will send me 1/2 dozen shirt, three pair drawers I find I will need more clothing than I expected as we find so many people here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:we have to dress often it would be best to buy the clothing at some store.  Send me a pair of pants....</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>B. D. WILSON TO W. B. T. SANFORD <HI REND="italics">Tejon, September</HI>
051.sgm: 4, 1853</p><P>We have arrived here perfectfuly safe had a fine trip find every thing well Indians quite Mr. Beale will make a reserve here at this place being the only place suitable in all this part of the country I suppose we will have a fight with the pretended owners Dn Ygnacio del Valle and old Aguire of San Diego but it cant be avoided we will remain here about 8 days to have a big talk here and consiquentlyhave to wait for the junta of the Indians but when we leave here we will travel post haste for San Francisco from where I will return home immediately.</p><P>We found here a party of about 50 men the Serveying party of which the bearer of this belonged Mr. Beale has Drawn on you for some suplies please honor Mr. Williamson the surveyor desires to get a 1000$ in cash on his Draft of deposit at San Francisco I have promised him that you will do it for him you can use any money of mine you may have on hand as they need or will probaly need some things before they get through their work in the lower country I think to accomodate them with this money will probably help you in commercial matters so have have said to them that you would do it without charge should you get the Draft and have no use for it send it up by the next steamer and I will bring the money down when I come.  write me by the Indians who goes for the mules that Beale left</p><P>in the night and in haste</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>STAMPEDE OF INDIANS Our worthy Marshal and his energetic assistant last Sunday opened the ponderous gates of the prison and locked up twenty five Indians, all supposed to be drunk; but he no sooner had turned his back than, crash! went the door, and the Indians scattered in every direction, up every street in town.  Jack swore, and the Marshal, utterly confounded at the impossibility of heading off so many fugitives, stood solemnly silent, and when the last fugitive had disappeared, gave utterance to a sigh and wended his way homeward.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, September 17, 1853.]</p><P>INDIAN AFFAIRS E. F. Beale, Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the State of California, and Benjamin D. Wilson, Indian Agent for the Southern District, arrived in this city from Stockton yesterday morning.  Messrs. Beale and Wilson were in Tejon Valley two weeks, during which time couriers were dispatched to every part of the surrounding country to acquaint the tribes in that region of the fact of Mr. Beale's presence, and calling upon them to assemble, that he might declare to them the intentions of the U.S. government in relation to their affairs.  On the 12th of September the chiefs and delegates of tribes had gathered to the number of 1,045, when a Council was held.  Mr. Beale addressed the Indians through Mr. Wilson, who translated his remarks into Spanish, which language is understood by many of the chiefs.</p><P>Mr. Beale first spoke to the Indians of his arrival amongst them, and informed them of some of the causes of his delay.  He told them that he was glad to see that they were so extensively engaged as they were in the cultivation of the land, and spoke of the immense advantage that would accrue to them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:from a practice of agricultural pursuits.  The object of his coming, he said was to do them good, that he was their friend, and desired to see them all happy, and intended to assist them with every means at his command to become so.  The principal means proposed to them was the establishment of the reserves, upon which they were to live, and where they would be free from the encroachments of the white man.  For this purpose it was necessary to collect them together, and that they should unite cordially in the furtherance of such measures as he should introduce among them for their benefit.  He explained to them the difference between the proposed Indian reserve establishments and the Missions of California, with whose former history they were acquainted.  In the Missions they had been required to labor for the benefit of the government and the church; on their reserves they would be laboring for themselves.  The whites were encroaching upon them from every quarter, and would continue to do so until their establishments were in operation, when all their rights would be respected.  The method of labor was not intended to be burdensome, but would be adapted to their physical capacity.  A system of rewards and punishments was to be arranged by themselves for their own government and protection.  Their captains and head men were to be chosen by themselves.</p><P>Mr. Beale spoke to them of the folly of family feuds and jealousies so common among Indian tribes; while mingling with the whites they could never rise to an equal station with them; but among themselves a firm feeling of friendship and equality could exist.  He explained to them that, under no circumstances, could he possibly derive any individual benefit from their labor, but that he was the chief among them and should labor to promote their interests.  Their organization <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:upon the reserves would be beneficial, not alone to themselves, but they would be building up pleasant homes for their children, where they could live in peace and happiness, reaping the benefits of the labors of the present generation.  Here they could build up a city and educate their children for future usefulness.</p><P>Mr. Beale informed them that until they should have so far advanced as to be able to support themselves by their labor, assistance would be rendered them by the government, and that they need be under no apprehension of suffering from want.  Hunting and fishing were to be allowed them, and although for the present their property and crops were to be as common stock, the ultimate intention was to allow a piece of land to each family.</p><P>As there probably were among them many Christian Indians who had been in the missions, provision should be made for their spiritual wants.  The padres, he explained to them, however, were not to be allowed any control over temporal affairs.</p><P>The alternative was offered them of acquiescence in the will of the Government, or extermination by disease and mixture with the white race.  The Council continued two days, at the end of which time the tribes agreed to accept the propositions of the Government made to them by Mr. Beale.  Ploughs and other agricultural implements,as well as some stock, are to be furnished them, when they will commence moving on to the lands designated as their reserves.</p><P>The thorough knowledge of the Indians of California possessed by Mr. Wilson, and the great influence he has over them, were sources of great assistance to Mr. Beale in this negotiation.  Mr. Wilson vouched to the Indians for the good intentions of the Government on the present occasion, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:assured them that although previous failures had been made, all Mr. Beale's promises should now be fulfilled.</p><P>Mr. Beale was obliged to leave the Four Creeks without holding his contemplated Council with the Indians there, in consequence of business which required his immediate attention in San Francisco.  We congratulate Mr. Beale, and are sure all our citizens will join us in the congratulations, upon the success which has thus far attended his labors.</p><P>[San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
051.sgm:, September 22, 1853.]</p><P>...It has become a question whether these unfortunate people [the California Indians] shall be exterminated as soon as possible, or remain in their present degraded, defenceless, and hopeless condition, or become the subject of judicious and just care on the part of the General Government, and be elevated in the scale of humanity to the position of a civilized and self-dependent people.  The first proposition is too revolting to all sense of justice and common humanity to be entertained by a virtuous and Christian public; the second is too nearly allied to the first to be decided upon as a system of policy....The third alternative is demanded by a consideration of national justice to the Indians, and a regard for the interest of the State...</p><P>The plan...is simple, economical, and calculated to impart the greatest moral, intellectual and physical benefits to the Indians that they are capable of receiving....The Superintendent purposes commencing his operations with the Indians in the southern part of the Tulare plains; the reservation to be located in the vicinity of Tejon.  The tribes in that region, with some of whom Mr. Beale recently held an official "talk," have a natural taste for agricultural pursuits, which they practice now to some extent....</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>The advantages of this plan are obvious and great; indeed, it is impossible to devise any other that would so effectually protect the whites from the predatory incursions of the Indians, or shield the Indians against the injustice and oppression of the whites....</p><P>A system that is so simple, so practicable, and leading to results so beneficial to both races, and so honorable to the American name, will surely command the support and cooperation of the people of California, as well as of the General Government.</p><P>[Editorial, San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
051.sgm:, September 22, 1853.]</p><P>E. F. BEALE TO GEORGE W. MANYPENNY <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, September</HI>
051.sgm: 30, 1853</p><P>In pursuance of the intention which I communicated to you in my letter of the 26th ultimo, I left Los Angeles on the 30th, and arrived at the Tejon pass on the 2d instant.</p><P>I found the Indians in that quarter quietly engaged in farming, but anxious to know the intentions of the government towards them.  Mr. Edwards, whom I had employed as farming agent, had been unable to assure them of anything permanent in relation to their affairs.  He had, however, with great tact, and with the assistance of Mr. Alexander Godey, by travelling from tribe to tribe and talking constantly with them, succeeded in preventing any outbreak, or disturbance in the San Joaquin valley.  I immediately collected together the headmen and chiefs, and deputations from every quarter of the mountains and plains lying between the "Four Rivers" and that point, a distance of about one hundred and fifteen miles in length by about the same in breadth.</p><P>With these Indians I held council for two days, explaining to them the intentions of the government in relation to their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:future support.  After long deliberation and much talk among the headmen and chiefs, they agreed to accept the terms I had offered them, which were as follows:</p><P>The government should commence with a system of farming and instruction, which would enable them in a few years to support themselves by the produce of their own labor.</p><P>That for this purpose the government would furnish them with seed of all kinds, and with provisions sufficient to enable them to live until the produce of their own labor should be sufficient to support them.  I pointed out to them the impossibility of their remaining any longer a barrier to the rapid settlement of the State, and of the necessity which existed that they should leave their old homes in the mountains, and settle at some other point where the government would be able to watch over and protect them from the whites, as well as the whites from them.  I pointed out to them, also, the difference between themselves and those who had embraced this new mode of life, as farmers, at the Tejon, and endeavored to make them sensible of the difference between a certain and reliable means of support by the produce of their own labor, and the exceedingly precarious one of dependence upon the spontaneous productions of the soil; and that even this mode of existence, precarious as it is, was becoming still more uncertain by the rapid increase of our white population.  To all this I had no difficulty in bringing them to assent.  A difficulty, however, arose here, which it was very hard to overcome.  This was their disinclination to leave their old homes and hunting grounds and to settle so far away from them; and I found it utterly impossible to overcome this difficulty until I had promised them that the reserve selected for them should be somewhere in the vicinity of the place where that conference was held.  On my promising this, they consented unanimously <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:to my proposition; and I have no doubt that they are all, by this time, on the spot awaiting my return.</p><P>Before I determined, however, upon locating the reserve at that point, I called upon Lieutenants Stoneman, Parke, and Williamson, of the United States army, who had been surveying the country carefully with a view to the location of the proposed Atlantic and Pacific railroad, to know whether, in their opinion, there was any other point north as far as the Sacramento river where an Indian reservation containing the requisites of good land, wood, and water, and also sufficiently accessible to admit of the establishment of a military post, existed within their knowledge.  The reply of these gentlemen, coinciding as it did with my own knowledge of the country, and with the views of Mr. Wilson, late Indian agent, on whose experience I placed great reliance, determined me in the selection of that point as one of the reservations authorized by the act of Congress...</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, 1853,pp. 469-72.</HI>
051.sgm: ]</p><P>B.D. WILSON TO E.F. BEALE <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, October</HI>
051.sgm: 4, 1853</p><P>I arrived here last night I found my family all well.  I Sent for Andrew Sublette Early this morning he has been in and seen me about the contract of delivery of the grain at the Texon I have talked the matter over with A. and he thinks that he ought to have for the wheat 22cts, pr. bb, and 20 for the barley delivered at the Texon, the price seems high but I dont believe a man can make wages at lower price I have parcially agreed with him at the above but I told him I would not consider the contract closed definitely until the Boat returned so I could hear your opinion on the prices he is willing for Young to be his partner &amp; wishes for him to come <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:down immediately Should Young and yourself think well of the arrangement it would be to Andrews &amp; Youngs advantage to get in San Francisco the use of as much money at the start as would enable them to start here without borrowing as money here is worth at the lowest 5 pr ct pr month it will not be posible for them to buy Grain Enough here to Supply the contract at the texon consequently they will have to ship from San Francisco the greater portion especially the wheat.  Wheat here is worth from 6 to 7 cents now &amp; probably will raise in a short time now it may be that 100,000 lbs of wheat is more than you may want at the Texon reflect on it and should you think less would do advise me.</p><P>I hope you will be here soon the Indians are very anxious to see you there was a large delegation from red River (the Colorado) the other day but left before I got home but I believe intend to return in a short time I feel certain you should come to this quiet place in order that you might recover from the perplixities of San Francisco.  I know that politicians and other hum-bugs have nearly Distracted you ere this I send Fred the box of Grapes and a box of pears though I have no doubt but he will divide with you all.  Fred must divide with Mr. Sanders &amp; Branham and I will send him another box in a few days.</p><P>I have been quite unwell since my departure from San Francisco and I have a light fever on me at this time so if this letter is not very interesting I hope you will Excuse it.</p><P>[Draft, Wilson Paper, Huntington Library.]</p><P>B.D. WISLON TO CAVE J. COUTS <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, October 6, 1853</HI>
051.sgm:</p><P>Sir. Yours bearing date on the 2nd present has been duly rcd.  As I am sick and not able to write you lengthly I will merely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:say to you that I have just returnd from the north where I have been on an Indian tour with Mr. Beale the Suppnt.  I left him (Mr. B.) in San Francisco he told me he would be here by the 15 Inst. without fail and then we would take a travel through the Southern Indians and make arrangements to Settle the Indians permanently.  So please let things remain as they are until Mr. Beale arrives then I have no doubt but you will have us at your place</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>E.F. BEALE TO B.D. WILSON [ <HI REND="italics">San Francisco</HI>
051.sgm: ] <HI REND="italics">October 15,1853</HI>
051.sgm:</p><P>You will please contract for the delivery, on the Indian Reservation, at the Texon, of five hundred head of cattle.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>E.F. BEALE TO B.D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, October 17,1853</HI>
051.sgm:</p><P>With the bearer you will receive Seven Indians.  I am sending them to the reservation on the Tejon &amp; wish you to forward them by the first train which leaves with Andrew Sublettes wheat.</p><P>Please be attentive to Mr. Blackstone who accompanies them &amp; get them off as soon as possible.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>INDIANS FOR THE RESERVE A deputation of young men from the tribes about Grass Valley arrived on Saturday evening by the Sacramento boat.  They will leave for Los Angeles in the first boat and go thence to the reserve set apart for them.  They will remain upon the reserve a short time, travel over a considerable portion of it, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:and then come back to report to their tribes.  If their report be favorable, it is probable that all the tribes will move down to the reservation this spring.  The Indians are distrustful but it is hoped that they will have confidence in Lieut.  Beale, who has taken hold of the duties of his office with a proper energy and feeling for the unfortunate Indians.  Nearly all the whites living near the Indians are anxious for their removal, except a few selfish traders who profit by the ignorance and vices of the red men.</p><P>[San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
051.sgm:, October 17, 1853.]</p><P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, October 25,1853</HI>
051.sgm:</p><P>We arrived safely in the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
051.sgm: after stopping at all the intermediate ports, of ports they can be called, for not a point which I saw between San Francisco and San Pedro can have a safe harbor, and consequently they cannot be places of much importance in a commercial view.  The climate of this place is delightful, and at some day Los Angeles will be a favorite resort for invalids.  The white-washed adobe walls have a very rude appearance, but the march of improvements is steady and certain....</p><P>That indefatigable officer, Lieut. Beale, is already moving in his department.  A deputation of young Indians from Nevada county, arrived here last Sunday in charge of Capt. Nathaniel Blackstone, destined for their new home at Tejon Pass.  The Indians in this vicinity are very degraded, and murders are of frequent occurrence among them.  A large portion of their sins lies at the door of those traders who seek an unholy profit by selling intoxicating liquors to the poor red man.  Lieut. Beale is expected to be here shortly, and it is hoped he will try, and succeed, to put a stop to this wicked traffic.<HSEP>POTOMAC</p><P>[San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
051.sgm:, November 1,1853.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>B.D. WILSON TO E.F. BEALE <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, November</HI>
051.sgm: 8, 1853<HSEP>In accordance with your order bearing date of 16 last month I have made arrangements with Messrs.  Sanford &amp; Reed to deliver 200 head of large beef Cattle at the Tejon Reserve for which I have agreed to pay Sixty dollars per head this being the best arrangement I could make for large cattle such as they are to deliver.  Mr. Reed says there may be a few over 200, but I have told him I had no doubt you would take them.  Hoping the above will prove satisfactory....  [Signed copy, Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]  H.B. EDWARDS TO B.D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, November</HI>
051.sgm: 15, 1853</p><P>When I saw you this morning I neglected to mention that Mr. Beale had requested Godey to drive up some goats, which he purchased from you when in Los Angeles.  You will, of course, know the number.  I know nothing about the transaction.  Mr. Beale will settle with you for them when he comes down.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>Lt. Beale is still at the Tejon.  It will be seen by an advertisement in another place, that emigrants and travellers may not make the Tejon a point at which to procure supplies of provisions, etc.  The supplies lodged at that place are intended for government uses and not for the travelling public.  This intelligence may be of importance to persons expecting to replenish their stock of provisions on the road.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, December 3, 1853.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>FROM THE COLORADO Maj. Harvey, Special Indian Agent, who went to the Colorado about a month since, for the purpose of reporting upon the number and condition of the Indians in that region and selecting a site for a Reserve, returned to town this week.  He has selected a reserve to the north of the Fort, and has made preparations for erecting a house for his own use.  Major H. estimates the number of Yumas who will be brought under his supervision, at from 6000 to 7000; and it is probable that the Mohaves will be added to that number.  At present every thing is quiet, though every day shows the necessity of convincing these Indians of the power and unity of our government.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, December 3, 1853.]</p><P>INDIAN ARRESTS It has long been a practice with the Indians of this city, to get drunk on Saturday night.  Their ambition seems to be to earn sufficient money, through the week, to treat themselves handsomely at the close of it.  In this they only follow the white examples; and like white men they are often noisy about the streets.</p><P>It has also been a practice, with the City Marshal and his associates, to spend the Sabbath in arresting and imprisoning Indians supposed to be drunk, until Monday morning, when they are taken before the Mayor and discharged on paying a bill of two dollars and a half each, one dollar of which is the fee of the Marshal marching in procession with twenty or twenty five of these poor people; and truly, it is a brave sight.</p><P>Now we have no heart to do the Marshal the slightest prejudice, but this leading off of Indians and locking them up at night, for the purpose of taking away their paltry dollars, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:seems to us a questionable act; especially as they are seldom quarrelsome; and, more especially, as, unlike some white men whom the Marshal is too discreet to arrest; they do not, when drunk, brandish knives and pistols through the streets, threatening the safety of quiet citizens.  We shall rejoice if the decision of Judge Hayes, declaring the practice unlawful, has the effect to put a wholesome check upon it; for there are other subjects, far more worthy the attention of the Marshal, upon whom he can exercise the duties of his office.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, December 3, 1853.]</p><P>INDIAN PUNISHMENT Last Sunday week at the mission of San Gabriel, the Indians got drunk and some of them quarrelled.  One of them, named Jose, retired to the bushes where he lay till night, when he rose up, took an axe and smote one Salvador on the head, so that he died the following Thursday.  The Indians after consultation, resolved that they would punish the murderer according to law; and they hung him by the neck until he was dead.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, December 3, 1853.]</p><P>E. F. BEALE TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Tejon, January</HI>
051.sgm: 9, 1854</p><P>In the party of Lieut. Williamson Top. Eng. U. S. Army there was a blacksmith, and should you be able to find him I wish you would employ him for me.  I am paying One hundred and twenty five dollars pr. month, but should you not be able to hire him at that price, offer him one hundred and fifty as he is a good workman and I need his services at this Post, he can come out with Thompson's pack train.  If you can not get him I do not wish any other</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>E. F. BEALE TO GEORGE W. MANYPENNY <HI REND="italics">Tejon, February</HI>
051.sgm: 8, 1854</p><P>Being about to return to San Francisco on official business, I have the honor to report progress at this place.  Since my last, I have completed our wheat-field, and the whole two thousand acres is now covered with the coming crop, and presents a beautiful prospect of the plenty which will reward our labor when we shall have gathered its grain.  I am now planting barley, of which I shall sow five hundred acres; after which, a hundred and fifty acres of corn will complete the heavy part of my work for this season.</p><P>This, you will remember, is exclusive of the separate portion which I plant for each tribe, and which, I informed you, is to be placed at their entire disposal, while the large crops I have mentioned will be served out in regular and sufficient rations.</p><P>It is impossible to do justice to the docility and energy which these poor people possess.  They work not only without murmur or complaint, but with the most cheerful alacrity; and as the fruits of their labor begin to show themselves in the immense field, now covered with its verdant promise of future plenty, they look at it in amazement, and with delight.</p><P>You must perceive in the fact that I have punished a few lazy ones with proper but not severe correction, a proof of the discipline which is here maintained by a moral force which is exerted over their minds by the majority, and that this influence could and would never have been exerted but for the confidence they feel in what I have told them, that all this work is to benefit themselves, and not the government.  This, then, is the first great point gained, viz.  An established confidence in their own minds that the government really desires <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:their good, and not to exterminate them, as malicious and reckless white men have informed them.</p><P>If this had not been done, you will perceive it would be impossible for me to control, with the dozen white employes I have here, some twenty-five hundred Indians.  So perfect is the discipline, that not even one of them ever leaves his work for a single day without permission, or returns without reporting his arrival.</p><P>You must not suppose I have merely brought the ploughs here, and the grain and all the stores which my returns show, and given them to the Indians, telling them to go to work.  On the contrary, I have toiled from an hour before daylight until dark with the few hired white men I have employed, and showed them how to manage the instruments put into their hands.  It has been a labor of excessive toil, only compensated by the aptitude of the scholars, and cheered by the most preeminent success.  I have endeavored to transplant here a system and regularity, acquired by eighteen years' experience in the strict school of naval discipline; and I have not been unsuccessful, as the results show.  My Indians are divided into different working parties.  Those who plough and harrow, seventy-five in number, go to the field after harnessing, in regular order; those who ditch have their work laid out--each one so much, according to the nature of the soil; and so on through every department of work which happens at the time to be necessary.  Their dinner meals are cooked and eaten in the field; breakfast and supper at the village.  Their tasks are never made laborious, so that an hour before sundown their work is always finished.</p><P>I have clothed them coarsely, but comfortably, and on Sunday (work having ceased on Saturday at noon) they seem as happy as it is possible to conceive.  To that day I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:encouraged them to look as one of pleasure, and for this purpose have instituted among them our own games, in which I have requested and encouraged my white employes to take part; so that on every Sunday we have sometimes two or three hundred playing at bandy and ball with those who during the week are their overseers and instructors in manual labor.</p><P>In fact, so happy are my people, that that which I never thought possible has come to pass, and my feelings for this poor race, which at first were merely those of compassion, are rapidly changing into a deep interest in their welfare, and in many instances to a personal attachment.</p><P>I have no military force here, and require none; my door has neither been locked nor barred night or day, and yet my feeling of security is as great as though I were surrounded by an armed guard.</p><P>Among other labors executed here, I have by a ditch six feet in width by eight in depth, and running for a distance of nine miles, connected two streams and thrown them completely around the immense field in which I have sown my grain, putting the certainty of my crops beyond peradventure, by giving me the power to irrigate the entire field with comparatively little labor.</p><P>On the first of next May I shall further elaborate my system, by choosing six among the chiefs most intelligent, and forming them, with myself to preside, into a council to decide upon certain laws for our interior government, and also on what shall be done with our surplus produce, which must be very great.  This council will meet on the first of every month to discuss matters of interest to our reserve, to look constantly to our future welfare and prospects, as well as to fix appropriate punishments and settle whatever may need arrangement among us.  Thus, by degrees, I hope to raise these people to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:believe that God has not created them to live and die as the wolves and beasts of their mountains.  Already some faint and indistinct notion that such may be the case appears to have struck their sight; but as yet it is vague and distant, like the first uncertain glimpse of a distant light-house.  Constantly, they say to me, "We have been asleep a long time.  We are just beginning to awake, but our eyes are not yet wide open."</p><P>The extending influence of this policy is already felt.  But a few days since, the chief who controls almost the entire race of valley Indians, and hitherto considered as beyond reclaiming, visited me with some fifty of his tribe.  He came to stay a day; he remained a fortnight.  When he left me he said, "I came here to laugh at your work, and to take back some of my people who were with you.  I go away with peace in my heart; and if not another Indian of the valley comes, I will make my home with you.  In two months I shall return with my people."  Should this promise be kept, he will bring with him not less than five thousand Indians; and these, sir, will have been removed without force and without expense, and, above all, without entailing on our government the bitter disgrace of punishing Indians because they do not willingly abandon the homes of their childhood and the graves of their sires.</p><P>Their ingenuity is carried into every branch of manufacture.  I have seen one of them, a lame boy, carefully unravel a piece of worsted saddle-girth, and in three months after, with instruments made by his own hands, produce the garters I enclose you.  They were intended as a present to myself, and to be used to tie the leather leggins necessary here to protect the limbs in riding through a thorny undergrowth in hunting game.  Much as I value them, I cheerfully resign the gift to you, as a proof of what they are capable.  I have watched this boy day after day with patient toil improving his imperfect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:implements, and working until he has produced that which I send you.  It may be considered by the department a small matter, but with me it has enlarged significance; and I repeat that such ingenuity, (for this is but one instance in many I could mention,) and such constancy in labor, deserve and should receive the fostering care of a government which possesses in its treasury so many unappropriated millions.</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm:, 1854, pp. 506-508.]</p><P>H. B. EDWARDS TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, March</HI>
051.sgm: 18, 1854</p><P>Your letter enclosing Thompson's receipt, has been received, and I feel much indebted for the trouble you have had in the matter.</p><P>I don't consider it at all necessary to purchase any more wheat, if Bishop has already finished sowing it, as there is probably a sufficient quantity there now to last until the crop comes on, if used sparingly.  If, however, Thompson has purchased, it makes no difference.</p><P>The order from Alexander &amp; Baning was presented and promptly paid.</p><P>I will send by Adams &amp; Co's Express, to your order, a draft for two thousand dollars which you will please hand to Thompson.  I expect to go down by the next Steamer, by which time I hope the work will be finished.  It is impossible for me to leave San Francisco for any length of time, otherwise I would go in the "Fremont" today.  I hope the present draft will be sufficient to keep things straight until I can get down myself.</p><P>San francisco is totally devoid of news.  Politicians are all busy with the Senatorial question, and merchants working hard to keep their heads above water, in which several have failed to succeed.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>Present my kindist regards to Mrs. Wilson and the children, &amp; believe me.</p><P>P. S. I am sorry to trouble you again about this business, but I was uncertain where Thompson would be, and determined to impose again upon your good nature, with a promise to sin no more hereafter.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>SAMUEL R. DUMMER TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Tejon, April</HI>
051.sgm: 4, 1854</p><P>I have been requested by Mr. Edwards to forward to you for him a statement of the number of lbs. of Wheat and Barley received here from Mr. James Thompson, and enclosed I have sent you the same which you will please forward to him.</p><P>I wish you would let me have a few strawberry plants for Mrs. Beale's garden: I have given directions to White Elliott that in case you can spare any to take care of them without giving you any trouble.</p><P>My sheep and their <HI REND="italics">descendants</HI>
051.sgm: are doing well; I have reserved 80 Rams as these (Chihuahua) sheep are much larger than the ordinary California breeds;--these rams are now four months old and in a few months will be fit for breeding purposes, and should you think proper to give me, say four or five hundred ewes I will put in the 80 rams and take care of the ewes and their increase for any length of time you may designate for half their increase.</p><P>Our crops begin to look well, and every thing connected with the Reservation is going on properly and with spirit.  Remember me to Mrs. Wilson and your children</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>SAMUEL R. DUMMER TO H. B. EDWARDS <HI REND="italics">Tejon, April</HI>
051.sgm: 4, 1854</p><P>With this I send you the amount of Wheat and Barley received at this Post up to this date, which is, Ninety two thousand eight hundred and eighty five lbs. of Wheat, and ninety five thousand seven hundred and fifty five lbs. of Barley.</p><P>Mr. Bishop has directed me to say to you that we will need the balance of the Wheat for the subsistence of the Indians and he thinks you had better purchase it at once and forward it here.  Mr. B. and all hands send their respects to you.</p><P>ENDORSEMENT BY B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, April</HI>
051.sgm: 12, 1854</p><P>Mr. Thompson requested me to say to you that if you wished to send the grain to San Pedro that he would sent it out to the Texon at once he says you should send good bags for to pack the grain in.</p><P>P. S. Godey has not come yet.  I hear he is on the road.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>H. B. EDWARDS TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, April</HI>
051.sgm: 26, 1854</p><P>I send by the Steamer "Southerner" ten thousand (10000) of wheat the quantity I believe to be deficient in order to make up the one hundred thousand pounds.</p><P>Please ask Thompson to send me by the return of this Steamer the receipts from the Texon, for the barley and wheat for which I settled with him, viz: one hundred thousand pounds of the former and ninety thousand of the latter.  It is necessary I should have them.</p><P>I also send per Adams Co. to your order, one thousand (1000) dollars, five hundred of which you will please forward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:to Bishop by the first opportunity, and the remainder retain in your possession subject to his order, or give such portion of it to Godey as may be necessary to defray any Expenses he may incur in carrying out Mr. Beale's orders.</p><P>You will also receive some rose cuttings, which were given to me by a friend of mine here.  He says, however, that he has but little idea they will grow, the season now being too far advanced to plant such things.  He has promised to let me know when the proper time arrives, and then give me a greater variety which I will place at Mrs. Wilson's disposal.</p><P>The receipt from Adams Co. for that money you will find enclosed, as well as some letters which you will oblige me by forwarding to the Texon, when an opportunity offers.</p><P>Present my kindest regards to Mrs. Wilson and believe me,</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>AFRIVAL OF COL. NORRIS Col. Norris arrived in town this week from the desert by way of Turner's Pass, having completed his contract for surveying the government lands.  He brings us favorable intelligence from the Tejon....</p><P>At the Tejon, after a month of very warm and dry weather, a rain, accompanied with thunder, lightening, hail and snow, on the mountains, and severe cold, had put a very improving face upon all things.  The crops look well, and promise great abundance.</p><P>There are some twelve hundred Indians at the reservation.  The Colonel reports every thing well and prosperous, and gives much praise to Lieutenant Beale and his employees for their energy and perseverance in their labors.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, May 6, 1854.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>CAVE J. COUTS TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Guajomito, May</HI>
051.sgm: 7, 1854</p><P>Manuelito, Captain of the San Luis Rey Indians, has called to request a letter to you, asking for the delivery of one of his Indians (named Mateo) who run away from here about six weeks since and is now in San Gabriel--said to be with a Don George, (an American) who promised to let Manuelito have him in case pursuit was made.</p><P>Mateo was pursued as far as San Juan, when they heard of his passing Los Angeles, and returned.  Manuelito was willing to let him alone as he had left here; but it appears that the Indians in the mountains have held a council and requested their Captain to send after him.</p><P>He, Mateo, is lame in one leg, a very intelligent indian (can read &amp; write), and their charges against him are for stealing &amp; murder (as a <HI REND="italics">witch</HI>
051.sgm: or echisero).  He has been pardoned by these Indians seven times, and they appear very anxious for you to aid them in getting him.</p><P>P. S. You have probably noticed a card published in the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, purporting to be from the citizens of Sta. Ysabel, respecting the removal of <HI REND="italics">Tomas</HI>
051.sgm:, and appointment of <HI REND="italics">Lazzaro</HI>
051.sgm: over the Dieguinos Indians.</p><P>1' Lazarro was not appointed.  <HI REND="italics">Panto</HI>
051.sgm:, at the request of the rancheros (except Sta. Ysabel) was appointed in place of Tomas, for various reasons.</p><P>2&deg; I have been able to find <HI REND="italics">no one</HI>
051.sgm: who knows more than two or three of the names to the paper.  They may be <HI REND="italics">strangers</HI>
051.sgm: in the employ of the quartermaster (Br. Maj. Justin McKinstry).</p><P>3d The whole matter resulted from a <HI REND="italics">personal</HI>
051.sgm: matter, between a notorious <HI REND="italics">public money handler</HI>
051.sgm:, called <HI REND="italics">Br.  Maj. Justin McKinstry</HI>
051.sgm: a qm. in San Diego, &amp; myself, previous to my leaving the army--when he proved himself a <HI REND="italics">liar, slander, &amp; coward</HI>
051.sgm:, &amp; was so <HI REND="italics">proclaimed</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>4' This notorious public money handler, calls himself the owner of Sta. Ysabel.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>CAVE J. COUTS TO B. D. WILSON [ <HI REND="italics">Guajomito] May</HI>
051.sgm: 7, 1854</p><P>There has been a hard attempt made by the rascal alluded to, to have me removed thinking that his position as a Qur. master in the <HI REND="italics">U. S. Army</HI>
051.sgm:, would be sufficient with <HI REND="italics">Beale</HI>
051.sgm: to Crush any humble Citizen.</p><P>I only sought the appt. of the <HI REND="italics">San Luis Indians</HI>
051.sgm:, and never meddled with the Dieguinos until the most prominent Rancherros in their midst Call twice, <HI REND="italics">requesting the removal of Tomas &amp; appt. of Panto</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><P>The publications that you may see on the subject, be assured are from him (Br. Maj. McKinstry) or his <HI REND="italics">hired bullies</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Beale</HI>
051.sgm: arrived in San Diego a short time since, and, as I understand, was prevailed upon by the rascal to reappoint old Tomas.  I made as brief a statement of the facts to him as I could, advising him that Tomas could not act as Capt. of the Indians so long as I remained the Sub-Agent--any orders that he might wish, to communicate to the Inds. thro' me would be promptly attended to.  The matter, I judge, will shortly be maad up by Beale dispensing with my services.</p><P>My only object, as you know, was to regulate the San Luis Indians.  They are well regulated, and if it was not for this man's attempt to have me relieved, would now, or probably sooner, have asked to be relieved.</p><P>If you should see Beale shortly, please suggest that he see a few of the Citizens of this county (not quarter masters employees) and ascertain from them the Course of the Sub. Indn. agent.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:<P>CAVE J. COUTS TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Guajomito, June</HI>
051.sgm: 5, 1854</p><P>The enclosed letter to Beale, I leave open that you may see it.  I care not a straw for his removing me; but am a little annoyed at his sending me word that he removes me on account of an old difficulty of five years standing with the notorious <HI REND="italics">handler of public funds</HI>
051.sgm:.  What did this have to do with <HI REND="italics">Indian affairs</HI>
051.sgm:?</p><P>From the acquaintance&amp;knowledge I have of Beale, thought him above medling in any such operations.</p><P>If you have any influence with Beale, try and get some <HI REND="italics">Citizen</HI>
051.sgm: of the county appointed in place of Capt. Burton.</p><P>On account of the sparce population of this county, the <HI REND="italics">army</HI>
051.sgm: has been riding it, <HI REND="italics">rough shod</HI>
051.sgm:, since the formation of the state constitution.  This I shall kick against as long as I have fingers &amp; toes.</p><P>N. B. I shall continue to act as sub agent until <HI REND="italics">officially informed</HI>
051.sgm: or until Capt. Burton, or some one else, shows me that they have the appointment, <HI REND="italics">officially</HI>
051.sgm:.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>THE TEJON RESERVATION--SUPERINTENDENT BEALE The peculiar adaptation of the Tejon to its present uses cannot but be acknowledged by every one who will visit it.  It lies in a corner of the world, far away from civilization, and defying the approach of settlements on any side.  It is off from the line of travel, and the only resources of its people are in the soil and wild game.  South and East it is bounded by almost impassable mountains; on the North is a strip of arid desert, extending to the Tules; on its extreme West passes the wagon trail from the Canada de las Uvas.  The Tejon Pass, which is in the extreme east corner, is only a single trail, through a narrow defile, broken by precipitous and difficult hills.  It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:so cut off from the world that travellers must go out of their way to approach it.  It is so far from markets, and so difficult of access, that it could be of little value for any other purpose, except it be as a grazing rancho.  It is about twenty miles across the head of the valley, and the Reservation embraces 50,000 acres.  The soil is rich, and abundantly supplied with water and timber.  Indeed, one can have little idea of its capacities, without close examination.  We rode a distance of probably twenty-five miles around its borders.  Little green vallies extend into the Sierras, supplied with clear spring water, and belts of oak timber.  In these vallies are located the <HI REND="italics">rancherias</HI>
051.sgm:, out of sight of the general observer, where the Indians cultivate their acres, and take as much pride in keeping them clean and free from weeds as any other class of farmers.  All classes work, from the oldest to the youngest.  Juan Viejo claimed exemption on account of being Chief; but when told it was necessary for the old men to set the example of industry to the young,he replied, "It is good," and went cheerfully to the field.</p><P>Considering the short time since Lieutenant Beale arrived at the Tejon, and the obstacles he has overcome, the amount of labor performed is almost miraculous.  At first the Indians were shy and awkward--fearful that tricks were about to be practiced on them, as had been done by former Indian Agents.  All the implements had to be transported over an almost impassable road.  Yet in spite of these difficulties, the Tejon, once a barren waste, roamed over by bear and deer and antelopes, and a few poor Indians, has become a blooming field and garden.  All these results have been produced since the first day of November last, when the first ground was broken by the plow.  Previous to this the Indians resident had raised small crops of corn and melons, by stirring up the earth, and dropping the seed to take care of itself; but their crops were never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:sufficient; and in seasons of drought, they lived upon roots, nuts, venison, and fish taken from the lake.  The mountains abound in bears and deer, and the plains are alive with antelope....</p><P>It is to be hoped that the Government may not be so short-sighted nor so unwise, as to withhold the small amount of money necessary to complete the plan of colonization; and that the office of Superintendent may never be put into the political market, thus jeopardizing the redemption of the Indians from the temptations of the white man and from barbarism.  The Superintendent should live among them; understand their habits; and show them, by the interest he takes in their labors that the Government is in earnest in its efforts to redeem and protect them.  The work is but just begun; yet the results are marvellous.  And these results are attributable to the confidence which the Indians feel in the men who direct their labors, and in their constant presence with them.</p><P>Mr. Beale is a man of untiring energy, and is entirely and unselfishly devoted to the work.  Let him have a fair trial, and he will make the miserable wild Indians of California the happiest people in the State.  He is a young man, and, of course, is ambitious; but his ambition lies in a road which few have the capacity or taste to travel, and therefore, though he may be closely watched, there are none who ought to envy him his success.  In the revolutions of party and the desire to reward favorites, he may be replaced.  For the good cause in which he is engaged, and for the sake of degraded humanity, we hope the day of his displacement is far off.  But should the evil time come, when his office shall descent into the vortex of politics, we trust the Government will insist that his successor be fitted for the post, that he reside upon the Reservations and follow out the system already so auspiciously commenced and which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:is admirably suited to the character and associations of the California Indians.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, June 24, 1854.]</p><P>F. E. KERLIN TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Tejon, July</HI>
051.sgm: 16, 1854</p><P>I send the Indian boy down with letters, and wish him to wait until some news comes from San Francisco.</p><P>The Indians, are very much displeased at the idea of Mr. Beale leaving them, and I think they will give "Uncle Sam," a great deal of trouble if some steps are not taken with them.  Dummer wishes me to give his kind regards to yourself and Mrs. Wilson.</p><P>Bishop left here yesterday to bring back one hundred Indians, who left for Owens Lake on the 14th Inst.</p><P>With many regards to Mrs. Wilson</p><P>Please request Harry or Mr. Sanford to settle the boys stable, and board bill, &amp; give him bustamente, for the road.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>THOMAS J. HENLEY, <HI REND="italics">Superintendent of Indian Affairs in</HI>
051.sgm: <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
051.sgm:, TO GEORGE W. MANYPENNY <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, August</HI>
051.sgm: 28, 1854</p><P>Since entering upon my official duties on the 26th ultimo, in accordance with my instructions of June 2, 1854, I have visited the Indian reservation at Tejon, (the only reservation at which, as yet, any Indians have been collected,) and have taken possession and supervision of the public property, schedules of which will accompany my report at the expiration of the quarter.</p><P>I could not ascertain the precise number of Indians belonging to the Tejon reservation, as many of them were in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:mountains, upon an excursion which a portion usually take at this season of the year, to collect grass-seeds and berries which they find there in great abundance, and of which they are very fond.  I fix the number, however, according to the best information I could obtain, at severn hundred, who acknowledge the authority of seventeen chiefs.  These Indians many of them speak the Spanish language, having learned it during their intercourse with the Mexicans, and at the "Catholic Missions," where some of them have been previously employed, and where they acquired some knowledge of agriculture previous to the settlement of California by the people of the United States.</p><P>The plan of subsisting the Indians by their own labor in the cultivation of the soil, I presume was suggested by the success which has attended the efforts of the Catholic priests in applying Indian labor to the erection of the mission buildings, and to the cultivation of their vineyards and grounds....</p><P>The grand features of the [reservation] plan can, with proper and judicious management, be made partially if not entirely successful.  The Indians in the southern and central portions of the State are willing to labor, and many are anxious to avail themselves of the privilege of settling upon the reservations.  I do not, therefore, hesitate to give it as my opinion that the plan of removing them to suitable reservations, requiring them to labor, and issuing to them only such articles of food and clothing from time to time as will supply their immediate wants, is the only method that can be adopted calculated to do permanent good to the Indians in California.  To distribute to them beef, blankets, or clothing, in their present locations, would result in more injury than in causing them to become indolent, and to cease effort to provide the necessary support for themselves.  To remove them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:beyond the limits of the State, or into the high mountain region, without providing for their support, would be worse and more cruel than immediate extermination.  The Indians upon the west, unlike those east of the Rocky mountains, have never lived by the chase.  Their support has been chiefly derived from the fish of our numerous streams, the acorns and grass-seeds of our valleys, and the roots and berries of the mountains.  By the encroachment of the white man they have been driven from their habitations, and their means of living entirely cut off.  There seems then to be no alternative which humanity would sanction but to provide them with the necessary tools and implements, and suitable instruction to enable them to obtain a support by their own labor on your lands reserved for that purpose.</p><P>The reservation at the Tejon, considering its interior location, difficulty of access, and the delays and trouble which always attend new enterprises, has probably been conducted with considerable energy, and so far as I could judge, the labor has been well performed.  The wheat crop is a good one, and may be considered as entirely successful.  The barley, having been sown late, was not a full crop. The corn suffered from drought, was not irrigated, and was also deficient in quantity.  The raising of vegetables has been almost entirely neglected.  The land now in cultivation, about fifteen hundred acres, is enclosed by a ditch; but it is not adequate to the protection of the crop, and some portion of it has this year been destroyed by the stock.  There are upon the reservation one old adobe building used as a residence for the persons employed upon the farm, and one new adobe intended for the residence of the superintendent.  There are also a sufficient number of corrals for taking care of the stock.</p><P>The Indians are not as yet provided with any houses, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:are living in such habitations as they are accustomed to in their wild state....</p><P>The Indians, on my arrival at the reservation, were quite anxious to learn if any change had taken place in the intention of the government towards them; and, on assembling in council, it appeared that they had decided objection to the Indian interpreter, and also to the two men in whose charge they had been placed by my predecessor.  This objection being removed, I met with no other difficulty; and after several conversations, I left them well satisfied and contented, with an unqualified promise to obey all the orders of those in whose charge I left them.  The chiefs, at their own request, have been permitted to exercise police authority over their respective tribes, and are held responsible for the proper quota of labor from each tribe.  The labor is divided among the chiefs, according to the number in each tribe; the making of adobes to one, laying them in the building to a second, threshing wheat, &amp;c., to a third, hauling grain from the field to a fourth, &amp;c., &amp;c.  In this way the work progresses in perfect order, and all seem pleased at their participation in it.</p><P>The location of the reservation is, in my judgment, a good one--the best that could have been made.  The soil is good, and well adapted to the cultivation of such products as are necessary for Indian subsistence.  There is an abundance of oak timber at a convenient distance, and plenty of red-wood and pine in the mountains, at accessible points within fifteen miles.  The lake within the limits of the reservation affords an abundant supply of fish of a good quality.  Game is plenty, and a hunter, at ordinary wages, will furnish meat as cheaply as the beef that is now issued to the Indians.  It is remote from the present settlements of our citizens, and will not, I think, for a long time to come, be a barrier even to the progressive and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:laudable spirit of our people in the settlement of new and remote portions of our Territory.</p><P>If the Indians are to be allowed any resting-place within the limits of the State, no attention, in my opinion, ought to be given to any clamor that might be raised against this location, as tending to embarrass the settlement and prosperity of the State....</p><P>The above-named tribes [the Kern River Indians, Posa Creek Indians, Tulare River Indians, the Four Creeks, the Y-Mithes, and Cowiahs, the King River, the San Joaquin, and the Fresno River Indians], numbering about three thousand souls, reside at an average distance of two hundred miles from the Tejon reservation.  Their removal will not be expensive, and can be accomplished as speedily as the advances of the settlements, the interests of the government, or humanity to the Indians, will require.</p><P>The crops which will be planted this winter will in all probability be abundant for the support of those referred to, and all the other tribes within reach of the reservation; and in the course of next year a large number may easily be added to those now enjoying the benefits of the reservation....</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm:, 1854, pp. 508-13.]</p><P>[ALONZO RIDLEY] TO THOMAS J. HENLEY <HI REND="italics">Sebastian Military Reserve, September</HI>
051.sgm: 22, 1854</p><P>. . .In the spring of 1850, an American named French settled in this valley, and built one of the adobe houses now in use on the reservation.  His business was taking care of stock on shares; but in 1851, on account of Indian disturbances at the Four Creeks, and other outbreaks, he left the place.  In May, 1852, Alonzo Ridley and David McKenzie came here for the purpose of trading with the Indians.  After trading a short <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:time, they left for about two months, and returning, took up their permanent residence.  At the time of their first visit, and when they commenced their settlement, there were about three hundred Indians living here.  They were called the Tejon Indians, and belonged to this valley.  Their customs were, feasting and travelling a great deal, <HI REND="italics">though they had then corn and wheat fields the same as at the present</HI>
051.sgm:, except as regards quantity.  They were very peaceable, and never committed any depredations on the whites.  They were very improvident, and their liberality was unbounded.  The mountain Indians, those in the immediate vicinity of the valley, from intermarriage with the Tejon Indians, have become one family.  Many of them are what are called Mission Indians, having lived on the Spanish missions in time gone by.  Some of them speak the Spanish language very well, and their conversation with the whites is held in this language.  From what was taught them at the missions, they were enabled to plant and raise grain before the Americans came among them.  When the old Spanish missions were secularized, these Indians were thrown back upon their former resources, though with the advantage of some knowledge of agriculture.  On the opening of this reservation, this knowledge was practically displayed.</p><P>During the first year of the residence of Messrs. Ridley and McKenzie, the Indians were continually talking about the Americans, and expecting the agents and presents from our government so lavishly promised by Colonel Barbour in 1851.  They had heard, also, that their treaties had not been ratified by our government, and grew discontented.  Numerous tales were in circulation among them to the effect that the Americans intended killing them all, and for that reason they were anxious to commence killing first.  The position of the Americans, at times, was by no means pleasant.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>Mr. Beale, the former superintendent of Indian affairs, first visited the valley in August or September, 1853, one year since, for the purpose of selecting a reservation for the Indians.  At that time, the number of Indians actually residing here was about three hundred and fifty.  When he had determined on making this a reservation, he held a council with the Indians for that purpose, and his intentions were well received.  Active operations were commenced about November.  During the month, about twenty Indians from the Frezo [the Fresno] were brought in; they remained about one month, when they stole and ran away with eight horses on the reserve.  From the Sacramento, or the north, seven were brought in under charge of a Mr. Storm.  They also left in a short time, with the exception of a little boy named Lelo, now with Mr. Beale.  From the Four Creeks there never have been over five or six at one time, and they did not remain.  In the first six months on the reserve, the number of the Indians was increased to about six hundred, embracing all the Tejon tribes, and the tribes with which they were connected, who really belonged here, (with the exception of Juan's tribe of Lake Indians, numbering twenty-four men and their families,) and a few from the San Joaquin, Joaquin's tribe of twenty men from Kern river; which last were <HI REND="italics">sent off</HI>
051.sgm: by Mr. Beale's overseer, on hearing of Mr. Beale's removal.  So that the Indians who have been actual residents, and now remain here, with the exception of Juan's and Joaquin's tribes, are none others but those actually belonging to this valley.  According to all the information I can give on the subject, eight hundred Indians, great and small, old and young, is the highest number I have heard estimated, or can be proven to have been here <HI REND="italics">at any one time</HI>
051.sgm: since the commencement of the reserve.</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm:, 1854, pp. 514-15.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:<P>E. F. BEALE TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, October</HI>
051.sgm: 14, 1854</p><P>This will introduce my friend Mr. J. Ross Brown[e], for whom I bespeak your cordial reception at Los Angeles.</p><P>I beg you will render him every assistance in your power, and endeavor to make his visit to your city agreeable.</p><P>Mr. Brown may require information on a variety of subjects and I have referred him to you as one whose position has placed it in his power to afford him all that he requires.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>F. E. KERLIN TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Washington, D. C., March</HI>
051.sgm: 7, 1855</p><P>I am very happy to inform you that all our accounts have passed, and after all the attempts to injure Mr. Beales reputation they have been unable to justify any of the slanderous assertions put forward.  I had intended writing to you before, this winter, but both Mr. Beale and myself were under the impression that you would be home, or rather in this country, before a letter could reach you, and you must blame yourself, for our not writing.  I have been endeavoring to get your accounts up, and examined for some time and I think that in a week I will be able to effect a settlement for you; they are bound to pass, if anything will,--at any rate I will not leave anything undone to get them done at once: for although it is a matter of no importance pecuniarily to you, it will be no doubt more agreeable to have them all closed.  Grayson the Clerk who will examine them is a clever person, and has promised me to go to work on them in a day or two.</p><P>Mr. Beale desires me to remember him most kindly to Mrs. W. &amp; yourself....</p><P>I hear that the Tejon is going to the dogs, as fast as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:negligence will let it.  I am sorry for the Indians, but it is no more than was to be expected from that rotten politician Henley--who is the most contemptible fellow in California....</p><P>How is old Dummer getting on?  I understand he has left the employ of Henley.  Remember me to him when you see him....</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>LOS ANGELES SENATOR We learn from Los Angeles, that the people of that county, native Californian and American, have united in urging Mr. Benj. D. Wilson to become a candidate for the State Senate, and that, after strong solicitation, he has consented.  It is only when the people become sick and tired of office-seeking politicians, and demand to be represented by A MAN, that such men as Mr. Wilson are found in legislative bodies.  To them office is no honor; on the contrary, they bestow respectability and honor upon the offices they are called upon to fill.  Mr. Wilson has resided in the state about fifteen years, and is [so] thoroughly acquainted with the wants of the people, that he needs must become a useful member of the Legislature.  Honest and fearless, he will be perfectly independent of all cliques and factions--a Senator that not only his own immediate constituents, but the people of the whole State, may be proud of.</p><P>[San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
051.sgm:, July 30, 1855.]</p><P>E. F. BEALE TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, August</HI>
051.sgm: 29, 1855</p><P>I had hoped to hear from you by the last two Steamers but have been disappointed.  I suppose you have been busy electioneering, and I sincerely hope successfully so.</p><P>From the last reports your election seems very certain, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:though in such slippery matters as politics nothing is certain.  Do let us hear from you soon, as we are all anxious to know how you get on....</p><P>Lewis tells me he has sent you Col: Bentons <HI REND="italics">last letter</HI>
051.sgm:.  I <HI REND="italics">do not wish</HI>
051.sgm: it published in your papers for two reasons.  I understand an investigation of Indian affairs in your district has been ordered, and to publish the letter of Col Benton would look like an attempt to prejudice Col: Henley, and I fear he has quite enough to answer for without that.  So don't let it be republished in your papers....</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><P>LOS ANGELES SENATOR Benj. D. Wilson, Independent Whig, is elected to the Senate from the district composed of Los Angeles, San Bernardino and San Diego.  Although the Democratic ticket has a large majority in these counties, yet Mr. Wilson's personal popularity was such as to carry him far ahead of his competitor in the race for Senatorial honors.  Mr. Wilson is an old resident of California (about fifteen years, we believe); and in the county of Los Angeles, where he has lived during that period, he has filled many important offices.  In 1852, he was appointed by Mr. Fillmore one of the Indian Commissioners for this State, and in connection with that office he did a vast deal to ameliorate the condition of the Indians.  An honester, purerminded man never received Legislative honors in California or any other State.</p><P>[San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
051.sgm:, September 12, 1855.]</p><P>How many thousands of horses were stolen in the years '50 '51 '52 '53 from the Ranches of San Ysabel, Santa Margarita, Los Flores, El Tamuel, San Jasinto, Agua Caliente and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:numerous other ranches in San Diego County?  Who that has lived in this county, for the past five years, does not recollect the magnificent droves of horses stolen from San Bernardino, San Jose, El Chino, El Rincon, Santa Ana, El Neguil, the Verdugos, Tajunga, San Fernando, Cahuenga and every other exposed Rancho in this county?  We well recollect of hearing of the robberies committed on the San Buenaventura and Santa Clara Rivers, in the county of Santa Barbara, the actual capture and spoilation of the Mission of San Buenaventura by the Indians, while Santa Ynez, Santa Rosa, Lompoc, Los Alamos and other exposed Ranchos in the same county were actually stripped of all their horses.  The same Indians who would enter this county through Walkers pass to rob, would add novelty to their depradations, by descending through the pass of Buenavista into the exposed county of San Luis Obispo, and would leave only the saddle horses that were tied at the doors of the Rancheros.  We are confident we are under the mark, when we estimate the loss of the southern counties, for the five years previous to the establishment of the Tejon Reserve, arising from the depredations of the Indians upon horses alone at 300,000 dollars, and when we add the loss of horned cattle, the insecurity of person and property, and the abandonment of the frontier settlements, this estimate is insignificant in comparison to the material and almost fatal check to the prosperity of these counties.</p><P>In the fall of 1853 the Sebastian Reservation was established and in three months thereafter Indians robberies had ceased.  Since that time we do not believe that the wild Indians tribes have robbed a single hoof of stock of any kind.  The Mission of San Fernando whose owners suffered in the four years previous to the establishment of Reserve, a loss of between four or five thousand head of horses, now brands in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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051.sgm:security their yet numerous stock.  The Ranchos of San Francisco and Capuntos, from which had been driven all their horses to pasture in the vicinity of this city, pastured last spring upwards of seven hundred horses, while San Cayetano, Tin and La Liebre, formerly with out a single horse or beef now have their thousand head upon their thousand hills.  Now, safely through the Tejon into the Tulare Valley, and right in to Stockton, the peaceable cattle drover in security passes with his herds, where in '52, two cattle drovers alone lost near two thousand head by a whole sale robbery of the Indians, who also attacked and murdered in their houses, at the Four Creeks six or eight Americans.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, October 20, 1855, quoted in R. G. Cleland, <HI REND="italics">The Cattle on a Thousand Hills</HI>
051.sgm:, 2d ed., 68-69.]</p><P>JOHN B. WELLER TO B. D. WILSON <HI REND="italics">Washington, D. C., January</HI>
051.sgm: 17, 1856</p><P>I recd. a letter from you in relation to the Sebastian Reserve some weeks since which owing to severe illness has been neglected.</p><P>There is no disposition whatever on the part of the Com. Indian affairs to abandon that reserve.  Although it has not been as prosperous as was desirable so far as Collecting the Indians is Concerned, yet it has given peace &amp; security to our people in that region and it would certainly be very unwise to abandon it.  Knowing as I do the importance of that reservation to the protection of the people of Los Angeles, San Bernardino &amp; San Diego I can never Consent to its removal.</p><P>As I am still ill &amp; write with difficulty you will excuse this short note.</p><P>[Wilson Papers, Huntington Library.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:<P>JOHN M. BRIGHT TO <HI REND="italics">Kern River</HI>
051.sgm: [n. d.] I take this opportunity to inform you that we are all well at present, but not doing as well as we might.  Times are squally here.--The Indians have broke out on the Four Creeks, and driven off a great many cattle.  They have stolen three or four hundred head of horses from Santa Barbara, and carried them up into the mountains on Tule River.  The miners on Kern River have quit work and forted up.  There have been two fights on Four Creeks, and the Americans were whipped both times.  An Express came in from Kern River this morning.  They expect to be attacked in a day or two.</p><P>The settlers have all gathered into my house.--We hardly know what to do.  I think you had better come up and get your cattle and take them to a more safe place.  I am sure that all the stock in this valley will be stolen in a few days.  Uncle Davy Smith is going to start for Los Angeles in the morning with a letter from the miners at Kern River to the Sheriff at Los Angeles, to raise a company to come to their assistance.  If you come up, I want you to bring me five or six pounds of lead.</p><P>[Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:, May 10, 1856, quoted in R. G. Cleland, <HI REND="italics">The Cattle on a Thousand Hills</HI>
051.sgm:, 2d ed., 69.]</p><P>Amount of grains &amp;c., raised on Tejon Reserve, A. D. 1856, ending June 30</p><P>Wheat<HSEP>475<HSEP>acres</p><P>Barley<HSEP>290<HSEP>"</p><P>Potatoes<HSEP>6<HSEP>"</p><P>Corn<HSEP>156<HSEP>"</p><P>Vineyard<HSEP>1<HSEP>"</p><P>Peas<HSEP>2<HSEP>"</p><P>Beans<HSEP>4 1/2<HSEP>"</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:<P>Melons<HSEP>2 1/2<HSEP>acres</p><P>Onions<HSEP>1/2<HSEP>"</p><P>Pea nuts<HSEP>1/4<HSEP>"</p><P>Tomatoes<HSEP>1/4<HSEP>"</p><P>Cabbages<HSEP>1/2<HSEP>"</p><P>General Garden<HSEP>3<HSEP>"</p><P>Fruit trees<HSEP>600</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm:, 1856, p. 249.]</p><P>CAVE J. COUTS TO THOMAS J. HENLEY [ <HI REND="italics">Guajomito] July</HI>
051.sgm: 7, 1856</p><P>The inhabited portion of this county [San Diego] is infested with two tribes of Indians known as the <HI REND="italics">San Luisenians</HI>
051.sgm:, and Dieguinos, according to the mission to which they respectively belonged, and number about 2,500 each.  The San Luisenians exist in the northern part of the county, and, from the coast east, include the principal chain of mountains.  These Indians are probably more advanced than any pertaining to your superintendency, and require but little attention with <HI REND="italics">proper management</HI>
051.sgm:.  They understand the cultivation of the soil, and are the main dependence of our rancherios for vaqueros.  They live comfortably in rancheros of tule (some few in adobes,) on what they gather from their wheat and barley fields, gardens, acorns and <HI REND="italics">cattle stealing</HI>
051.sgm:.  Many of them can read and write.  The Dieguinos, although reared in an adjoining mission, are far inferior to the San Luisenians.  They lack nothing of that laziness and indolence proverbial to all Indian tribes, and live principally by cattle stealing, and on acorns.  They are in the southern part of that county, and extend from the coast to the desert, where they naturally blend with the Yumas, with whom they are on very friendly terms.</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm:, 1856, p. 240.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:<P>JOHN RAINS TO THOMAS J. HENLEY <HI REND="italics">Temecula, July</HI>
051.sgm: 24, 1856</p><P>Of the San Luis Rey Indians, there are in all belonging to this between twenty-five and twenty-eight hundred; they live in nineteen different rancherias, having a captain and alcalde in each, and one headman over all.  They are Christians; raised to work; all cultivate more or less; all are good horsemen, and make good servants; very fond of liquor, easily managed when sober, but great fools when drinking.  This year their crops have failed, owing to the want of water.  There are some of them in a starving condition, and are obliged to steal to maintain themselves and families.  The country of the San Luis Rey Indians, is joined by the country of the Cowela [Cahuilla] and Diegena Indians.  They are about six thousand, all told.</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm:, 1856, p. 243.]</p><P>THOMAS J. HENLEY TO COMMISSIONER G. W. MANYPENNY <HI REND="italics">San Francisco, September</HI>
051.sgm: 4, 1856</p><P>. . .In regard to the system of colonizing and subsisting Indians on reservations, I have only to say that it has so far succeeded entirely beyond my expectations, and is, in my judgment, the only system that can be of any real benefit to the Indians.  It enables the government to withdraw them from the contaminating influences of an unrestrained intercourse with the whites, and gives an opportunity to provide for them just such, and no more, assistance than their wants from time to time may actually require....</p><P>[<HI REND="italics">Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs</HI>
051.sgm:, 1856, pp. 236-46.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:<P>THE INDIANS OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA For a couple of weeks back we have been publishing portions of a very interesting paper upon the condition of the Indians of Southern California.  It is a report made out by Mr. Wilson, in the year 1852, addressed to Lieut. Beale, at that time Indian Agent for the State of California.  The information contained in this document is not only interesting as it concerns the aboriginal races of Southern California, but it is highly important in a historical point of view, as showing the condition of the country in the early days treated of.</p><P>This report was transmitted at the time to the authorities at Washington, and was the foundation for the recommendations made by the Agent for the establishment of the Tejon Reservation, and the building of the military post at Fort Tejon.  The reservation system was recommended by the author; but the military post was an afterthought, and as we take it, was as little contemplated by him, as it was useful or necessary to carry out the designes of the reservation plan.</p><P>We reprint the document for its intrinsic value, and not for any bearing it may have had on the system pursued by Government in its treatment of the Indians.  It is well worth preserving, and will be found very useful to a full understanding of the early history of this portion of the State.  It suggests a melancholy reflection upon the destiny of the red man, when one contemplates the scattered remnants of what were once numerous nations.</p><P>The report will be continued through several more numbers of the STAR.</p><P>[Editorial, Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:<DIV TYPE="bib"><HEAD>BIBLIOGRAPHY</HEAD>
051.sgm:<P>BIOGRAPHICAL DATA on Benjamin Davis Wilson are contained in the collected correspondence of many of his contemporaries, but particularly in the Wilson Papers in the Huntington Library.  For his early career the basic document is his "Observations on Early Days in California and New Mexico," a dictation for Hubert Howe Bancroft in 1877, MS, Bancroft Library, and available in Robert G. Cleland, <HI REND="italics">Pathfinders</HI>
051.sgm: (Los Angeles, 1929), 371-416, and, with annotations by Arthur Woodward, in Historical Society of Southern California, <HI REND="italics">Annual Publication for</HI>
051.sgm: 1934, pp. 74-150.  A review and appraisal of his career may be found in John Walton Caughey, "Don Benito Wilson, an Average Southern Californian," <HI REND="italics">Huntington Library Quarterly</HI>
051.sgm:, II (1939), 285-300.  See also Melbourne F. Aitken, "Benjamin D. Wilson, Southern California Pioneer" (M. A. thesis, U.C.L.A., 1948).</p><P>On southern California in the fifties the chief accumulations of information are in manuscript sources such as the Stearns Papers and the Wilson Papers in the Huntington Library, in the broken files of the early newspapers, and in Benjamin Hayes' Scrapbooks, now a part of the Bancroft Library.  Horace Bell's <HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of a Ranger</HI>
051.sgm: (Los Angeles, 1881) and <HI REND="italics">On the Old West Coast</HI>
051.sgm: (New York, 1930) give a free-flowing, colored, and uninhibited account of early Los Angeles as he saw it.  Harris Newmark's <HI REND="italics">Sixty Years in Southern California</HI>
051.sgm: Boston, 1930), combining recollections with gleanings from the newspaper files, is more of a grab-bag, but an anecdotal introduction to the period.  Two recent monographs are most useful.  William B. Rice, <HI REND="italics">The Los Angeles Star</HI>
051.sgm:, 1851-1864 (Berkeley, 1947), charts the beginnings of journalism in Los Angeles and in the process accurately mirrors southern California life.  Robert G. Cleland, <HI REND="italics">The Cattle on a Thousand Hills</HI>
051.sgm: (San Marino, 1941; rev. ed., 1951), is even more effective as a social history of southern California in the period of transition to American ways.  For the San Bernardino district an important supplement is George William Beattie and Helen Pruitt Beattie, <HI REND="italics">Heritage of the Valley</HI>
051.sgm: (Pasadena, 1939).</p><P>Alfred L. Kroeber, <HI REND="italics">Handbook of the Indians of California</HI>
051.sgm: (Washington, 1925), contains authoritative information on almost all phases of southern California Indian culture.  An older work of much interest because of the author's success in grasping the spirit of the Indians is Stephen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
051.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
051.sgm:Powers, <HI REND="italics">The Indian Tribes</HI>
051.sgm: (Washington, 1877).  David P. Barrows, <HI REND="italics">The Ethno-Botany of the Coahuilla Indians of Southern California</HI>
051.sgm: (Chicago, 1900), describes the Indians of the interior.  Gero&acute;nimo Boscana, <HI REND="italics">Chinigchinich</HI>
051.sgm:, in various printings, of which the most convenient is the one annotated by Mark R. Harrington (Santa Ana, 1933), is a Franciscan's description of the Luisen&tilde;o and Gabrielino.  Hugo Reid's letters on the Indians of Los Angeles County, serialized in the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
051.sgm: in 1852, shortly before Wilson's report was written, were put into book form by Arthur Ellis (Los Angeles, 1926) and reproduced in Susanna Bryant Dakin, <HI REND="italics">Scotch Paisano</HI>
051.sgm: (Berkeley, 1939).  Several studies by Sherburne F. Cook of the factors in population decline among the California Indians were published in <HI REND="italics">Ibero-Americana</HI>
051.sgm: (Berkeley, 1937-1943).</p><P> Zephyrin Engelhardt, <HI REND="italics">The Missions and Missionaries of California</HI>
051.sgm: (4 vols., San Francisco, 1908-1915), and the same author's volumes on individual missions have information on almost every phase of mission activities.  More summary accounts are available in such works as Charles E. Chapman, <HI REND="italics">A History of California, The Spanish Period</HI>
051.sgm: (New York, 1921), and John Walton Caughey, <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
051.sgm: (New York, 1940).  For analysis of the mission purpose see Herbert E. Bolton, "The Mission as a Frontier Institution in Spanish America," in his <HI REND="italics">Wider Horizons in American History</HI>
051.sgm: (New York, 1939).</p><P>The effects of American Indian policy as brought to bear in California are evaluated in Hubert Howe Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
051.sgm: (7 vols., San Francisco, 1884-1890), VII, 474-95, and in Caughey, <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
051.sgm:, 379-91.  For a more detailed discussion see William H. Ellison, "The Federal Indian Policy in California, 1846-1860," <HI REND="italics">Mississippi Valley Historical Review</HI>
051.sgm:, IX (1922), 37-67; "The California Indian Frontier," <HI REND="italics">Grizzly Bear</HI>
051.sgm:, March 1922; and "Rejection of California Indian Treaties," <HI REND="italics">ibid</HI>
051.sgm:., May-July, 1925.  The California problem is discussed in relation to that of the West in general in Alban W. Hoopes, <HI REND="italics">Indian Affairs and Their Administration, with Special Reference to the Far West</HI>
051.sgm:, 1849-1860 (Philadelphia, 1932), and Edward Everett Dale, <HI REND="italics">The Indians of the Southwest</HI>
051.sgm: (Norman, 1949).  For Edward F. Beale and the reservation experiment at Tejon see Helen S. Giffen and Arthur Woodward, <HI REND="italics">The Story of El Tejon</HI>
051.sgm: (Los Angeles, 1942), and Stephen Bonsal, <HI REND="italics">Edward Fitzgerald Beale: A Pioneer in the Path of Empire</HI>
052.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-052</TITLE>
052.sgm:<TITLE>The condition of affairs in Indian Territory and California.  A report by Prof. C.C. Painter, agent of the Indian Rights Association: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
052.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
052.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
052.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
052.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
052.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
052.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
052.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>02-15274</LCCN>
052.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
052.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
052.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>A full Index on page 103 <LB>THE CONDITION OF<LB>AFFAIRS IN INDIAN TERRITORY<LB>AND<LB>CALIFORNIA.</P>
052.sgm:<P>A REPORT<LB>BY<LB>PROF. C. C. PAINTER,<LB>AGENT OF THE INDIAN RIGHTS ASSOCIATION.</P>
052.sgm:<P>PHILADELPHIA:<LB>OFFICE OF THE INDIAN RIGHTS ASSOCIATION,<LB>NO. 1305 ARCH STREET. 1888.</P>
052.sgm:<P>PRICE 25 CENTS.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>We ask our generous friends to repeat their contributions of other years when this is possible.  And we also respectfully suggest to thoughtful men and women everywhere the need and the helpfulness of even the smallest sums.  The fee for annual membership, entitling members to all our publications free, is but $2.  We ought to have 5,000 NEW members before the end of the year.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Many thousands of persons might send us $1, or 50 cents, each, without inconvience to themselves, and the value of the aggregate of such contributions to our work would be very great, not only in the money received, but even more in securing for us so wide a constituency among the intelligent and serious-minded people of our country.</P>
052.sgm:<P>We shall be glad to answer all letters of inquiry, and to give any information desired regrading our work, and to send our publications to any address.</P>
052.sgm:<P>HERBERT WELSH,<LB> <HI REND="italics">Corresponding Secretary,</HI>
052.sgm:<LB>1305 ARCH STREET<LB>PHILADELPHIA, PA.</P>
052.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>25717 There is no other way in which the people of this country can obtain so much real knowledge of Indian affairs as by reading the publications of the Indian Rights Association.  The Reports and discussions issued during the last few years present a vast amount of information in an orderly, coherent and intelligible form.  Send $2 for Annual Membership, and you will receive, without further charge, all our publications which are now in print.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Address HERBERT WELSH,</P>
052.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Corresponding Secretary</HI>
052.sgm:<P>INDIAN RIGHTS ASSOCIATION,</P>
052.sgm:<P>1305 ARCH STREET, PHILADELPHIA, PA.</P>
052.sgm:<P>PRESS OF WM. F. FELL &amp; CO.,<LB> 1220-24 SANSOM STREET,<LB>PHILADELPHIA.</P>
052.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>STUDYING THE CONDITION OF AFFAIRS<LB>IN INDIAN TERRITORY AND CALIFORNIA.<LB>A REPORT BY PROF. C. C. PAINTER,<LB>AGENT OF THE INDIAN RIGHTS ASSOCIATION.</HEAD>
052.sgm:<P>At the joint request of the Executive Committee of the Indian Rights Association and of the Mohonk Committee on "Legal Defence of the Mission Indians," as general Agent of the Indian Rights Association, I made a third annual visit to southern California during the spring and summer of 1887, leaving home on the second of May and returning in August, stopping in the Indian Territory on the way out to look into the condition of things at the several Agencies among the Indians west of the five civilized tribes.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Calling on the President and Secretary of the Interior, and informing them of the scope and purpose of my visit, I was requested by them to look into the condition of the schools at the several points visited, and to give my opinion as to the advisability of removing the Indians west of Oklahoma into that part of the country, with a view to opening up to settlement the lands now occupied by them, as proposed by the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, and urged with great pertinacity by certain Congressmen from Iowa and Illinois.  Through General Kelton, Acting Secretary of War, I was kindly furnished with letters to the commandants of the several military posts along my route, which were of the greatest assistance to me, and I take this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>The letters furnished me by the Secretary of War secured from Col. Sumner, of Reno; Col. Pierson, of Ft. Sill; and Gen. Miles, of Los Angeles, all the aid that could be given me in furtherance of the objects of my visit, and the hospitalities of the first two were unstinted and most generous.</P>
052.sgm:<P>A similar letter was given me by the Secretary of the Interior, requiring of the officials of the several Agencies visited by me all the assistance they could give consistent with the discharge of their duties.  Excepting at one Agency, this did not secure to me any very special attention, possibly all that could be given consistently with more urgent duties.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Stopping at Arkansas City, in Kansas, to visit the Indian School at Chilocco, near that city, I found the Senate Committee appointed to investigate certain scandals in connection with Indian Traderships, in session at that point.</P>
052.sgm:<P>A large number of traders, ex-traders, Agents, Ex-agents and others acquainted with the condition of things were gathered here, affording unusual opportunities for picking up information such as I was seeking.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I do not know, nor will I attempt to anticipate, what report this Committee will make, but as the witnesses were examined, two facts seemed to come out very prominently: 1st, Old traders, against whom no charge was made of violating the intercourse laws, or rules regulating trade with Indians, had the option forced upon them of putting in their capital, including buildings, goods, experience, time and labor, as against the license of a new man, who, in some cases, had no capital, and dividing profits; or of losing capital, buildings, outstanding debts, etc., etc.; and 2d, That Deputy Commissioner Upshaw, even while he was only Chief Clerk, seems to have run the Bureau of Indian Affairs independently and, at times, against the will and purpose of the Commissioner.  One witness testified that he would have, one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>The sooner it is settled that the Indian belongs to the human family, that his needs must be met in the same way and under the same economic laws as in the case of all other human beings, the better it will be for him and for us who are so much perplexed with the difficulties of our problem--difficulties we foolishly create and then by most stupid methods undertake to solve.</P>
052.sgm:<P>If the abuses which Senator Platt's Committee have undertaken to investigate will but call their attention to the fact that they grew up under a system which is of itself an abuse, and shall result in its correction and removal, then will a result be reached which shall compensate for the expense of such a Commission; but if we shall reach the conclusion, satisfactory to one part of the Committee, that this business has been controlled and used by those in charge of it, as never before, to reward political and personal friends--or, with satisfaction to the other part of the Committee, that the present administration has only too closely followed the bad precedents of the past, this would be, in either case, a lame and impotent conclusion, in which few would feel an interest.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Experience in the past does not hold out much hope that anything will come of this investigation.  Two reports will be given, each satisfactory to the party to whom it is made, and the nonpartisan citizen, if he reads them, will strike the balance at the zero point midway between, and infer nothing beyond a zeal on the part of each to politically injure the other.</P>
052.sgm:<P>There is this hope, however, which grows stronger under every exercise of the inherent despotism of the Indian Bureau, that as the number of white men increases who are crushed in their fortunes, or hindered and thwarted in their plans, by its arbitrary decisions, the demand will grow louder, stronger, and more emphatic that such an anomalous monstrosity shall cease to exist.  Since we began to deal with the Indians it has crushed them under its irresponsible power, and the American people have been silent; but when it strikes too many free citizens down its days will be numbered.</P>
052.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>To one who has protested against it, and chafed under it as he has seen it dealing with the Indian as with a piece of dead matter, as having no rights to be considered when they were opposed by the interests of white men, it was a great delight to see it strike the Christian Churches of this country a blow square in the face, as it did in the order forbidding them, at their own expense, and in such ways as experience has taught them are wise, to attempt to obey, so far as the Indians are concerned, the command of their Divine Master, and preach to them the gospel of Christ, and then treat with supreme indifference and contempt their humble petitions to have this order modified.  So long as no one but the Indian was subjected to such tyranny few have found a voice to complain, but it is an interesting question how long those who have believed in civil and religious liberty will submit to such a petty despotism, when it crushes their own rights and liberties.</P>
052.sgm:<P>THE CHILOCCO SCHOOL. This school is beautifully located, on elevated grounds several miles from Arkansas City, just over the line in the Indian Territory, not so far from the home of the Indians that they cannot run off and go home frequently, but so far that it requires considerable time to hunt them up and bring them back.  The school was under the care of a most excellent Christian gentleman who lacks other very necessary qualifications for the highest success as superintendent of such a work.  The school was fairly good when it ought to have been first-class.  During the year which closed about the time of my visit, there had been five principal teachers for the one position; there had been seven teachers for the two positions, or twelve appointees for three positions, and this in the teaching force of the school.  Five men had held the one position of blacksmith; five women the one position of tailoress.  These changes would indicate a fatal inability to make good appointments, or an equally unfortunate inability to retain good workers when appointed; in either case a condition of things utterly incompatible with a high degree of success.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The school is badly cramped for room and suitable accommodations.  The dining room accommodations are poor in quality <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>The superintendents of this school have made reference in their reports to the small allowance of soap, and the present laundryman makes a pitiful plea for a larger quantity.  I would that the cook also had felt the necessity for it, and had joined her voice with that of the laundryman.  Certainly there was either an utter deficiency of this most necessary article, or an utter ignorance of its virtues.  It is too bad that children should pass the formative period of their lives under influences which minimize the value of cleanliness in persons and surroundings, and should be fed by the exponents of our higher Christian civilization in such manner that they get but faint ideas of anything better than they have known in their old homes.</P>
052.sgm:<P>PONCA, OTOE AND PAWNEE. From Chilocco I went to the Ponca Agency, under the care of Major Osborne of Tennessee.  He had just killed one of his farmers at the Otoe sub-Agency, and had gone to Tennessee after his wife.  The killing of this man was in defence of others, at whom the man killed, Smith, was shooting.  His position, with reference to Smith was such that Osborne could have disarmed him without killing him had he seen fit to do it.  There was no necessity for the thing, and it would not have occurred but for the fact that these men all go armed, and belong to a class which ought to have no representatives in the work of Indian civilization.  I learned at Arkansas City that when the Agent, and his clerk from Otoe, Mr. Young, and another employe&acute; brought Smith's body to that place to ship it home, they were gambling, and acting as fast fellows "on a high old time."  I was informed by a gentleman, also of that city, that some time ago the Agent came up into Kansas, to a neighboring town, fell off the train and lay about town until his wife came up and took him home.  I had a conference with the Indians at Ponca, and had to listen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>I rode all over the cultivated portion of their reservation and found it to be a magnificent body of land.  I found the man who was most bitter in his denunciations of the employe&acute;s roosting upon the top of his house, smoking, and doing but little for his corn, which very much needed attention.  But I found also that the most progressive and industrious of the Indians shared very fully the feeling which was expressed at the conference as to the unrelatedness of these employe&acute;s to their welfare.</P>
052.sgm:<P>There was, especially among the better part of the Indians, a strong feeling that their school was not doing much for their children.  This was manifestly a correct estimate of the school.  There was and had been much feeling between members of the force of employe&acute;s, and want of harmony.  There had been two superintendents during the year, and five teachers where there should have been but two, and frequent changes throughout the force.</P>
052.sgm:<P>There is great need of additional room, especially of bath rooms, water closets and hospital, but there is more urgent need for a change in the controlling and teaching force before the school can become efficient.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The superintendent is reputed to be an infidel, of the blatant kind.  However this may be, he is not, otherwise, fitted for his position, neither is his wife qualified to teach.  The school was very poor inded.  In fact, among the whole Agency force the clerk is the only one I found there regularly connected with the work whom I thought qualified for his duties, and he is not the kind of man to entrust with any part in a civilizing work, for he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>Things were much better at Otoe Sub-agency.  The clerk who had been in charge, and who was in the recent shooting scrape, and his wife, who had been matron, were just leaving when I got there.  Both, from all I could learn, were notoriously unfit for their positions.  Mr. Hutchinson, the Superintendent of the school, and his wife, the matron, and Miss DeNight, the teacher, are all first class.  The Doctor, who lives there also, I judge to be pretty good; also the cook and laundress.</P>
052.sgm:<P>This is one of the very best schools I have ever found on an Indian Reservation.  Unfortunately it is very small, there being room for only twenty-five boarding pupils.  The building, as being inadequate and unfortunately located too near the Agency buildings, ought to be turned over to the Agency, being much needed, and a new and complete school for 125 or 150 pupils should be erected about a mile from the present site.  If this should be done and the present Superintendent put in charge, and the present superb teacher, Miss DeNight, who was removed from the Chilocco school to make room for the Superintendent's sister-in-law, given charge of the teaching force, a long step would be taken in the direction of civilizing the Indians.  In fact, this would be the point at which to build an adequate school of the highest grade for this whole Agency, being central for the Poncas and Pawnees.</P>
052.sgm:<P>At Pawnee I found a bad state of things.  The clerk in charge, McKenzie, so far as I could learn, does nothing.  His brother, the farmer, clerks for him.  Barker, the additional farmer, a tall, gawky boy, knows nothing of farming and does nothing.  Prof. Gordon is superintendent of the school, which is detached from Agency control, and, though a very nice man, is wholly unfit for his position.  He sent the children home with the measles broken out on them, and many of them, the clerk says 40 out of 85; the doctor says 30; Gordon says 23, died, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>Excepting the dining room, everything about the school premises was in a fearful condition.  The privies scented the whole place; the stores and school goods were in bad order, and much of them spoiling, this largely because there was no suitable room in which to store them.  The doctor was about the only one connected with the government work that amounted to anything at all.  The Indians threatened to gather up the whole force and dump them off the reservation.  As at Ponca, so here, the Missionary finds no sympathy, and but little opportunity for her work.</P>
052.sgm:<P>OKLAHOMA. Owing to the impassable condition of the streams, my plan for visiting the Sac and Fox people, and the Shawnees and Pottawatomies, had to be abandoned.  From Pawnee I went down through the Oklahoma country to Oklahoma station, (on the A. T. and Sante Fe Branch Road, which now connects through to Galveston, Texas) where stages connect for Darlington and Ft. Reno.  This gave opportunity to see the character of this famous, much-coveted country.  It is better timbered and watered than any other portion of the Indian Territory I have seen, and grass is abundant; but I do not believe the soil is so good as either east or west of it.  It would not better the Wichitas, and the other Indians whom it is proposed to remove into it, so far as the quality of the land is concerned.  It is not, as many seem to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>I was asked, both by the President and Mr. Lamar, to give an opinion as to the advisability of removing the Indians west of Oklahoma into this district, so that the reservations now occupied by them might be opened to settlement.  After an extended tour and inspection of their reservations, and inquiries into their condition and prospects, I reported that in my estimation it would be unjust, cruel and disastrous to do so.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The theory on which this is proposed is that no treaty stands in the way of their removal, or of the opening of their reservations, since they are on executive order reservations, while there are treaty and other difficulties in the way of throwing open Oklahoma to white settlement.</P>
052.sgm:<P>These reasons are valid in appearance only, but not in reality, while there are very real and urgent reasons why it should not be done.  A treaty was made with the Cheyennes and Arapahoes, for instance, giving them a reservation north of the one now occupied, but we had no right to give them this land, it being in part embraced in the Cherokee outlet, and the Indians did not understand that it was the land for which they were treating, but supposed they were getting the land which is now occupied by them.  They refused to move upon it, and we had no right to remove them to it.  After correspondence, the President set apart, by "Executive order," their present reservation, in lieu of that given them by the treaty.  Of course he had no power to annul, by Executive order, their treaty rights, among which was the right of any individual Indian, head of a family, to have allotted to him 320 acres of land to be secured by a patent.  If the President could rightfully give them this land in lieu of the other, their possession of it carried with it all the rights they had on the other tract.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Wichitas are said to be on a reservation by unratified treaty, and since the treaty has never been ratified by the Senate there could be no legal obstacle to their being removed.  The fact is, these Indians claim always to have been the owners of this land, not only of what they occupy, but of a large body occupied in part by the Kiowas and Comanches, Delawares and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>We know from good authority that an empty house, though swept and furnished, cannot be guarded against demoniacal possession.  The only way to keep it clean is to occupy it.  But we ought to have learned something from past experience in regard to the removal of Indians from their homes to satisfy the convenience or the greed of the white man.  Much and bitter complaint has been made that the President has failed to appoint a Commission, which he was authorized to do, to treat with the Indians of the territory for a surrender of their treaty rights in regard to land.  The appointment of such a Commission, simply to treat with them for their consent, is seemingly a very innocent and proper thing to do, but it is very much like the act of March 1st, 1883, empowering the President to consolidate agencies and tribes, at his discretion, "with the consent of the tribes to be affected thereby, expressed in the usual way," which J. P. Dunn, Jr., interprets to mean "The President is authorized and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:empowered to drive the Indians from their native homes, and place them on unhealthy and uncongenial reservations, whenever sufficient political influence has been brought to bear upon the Commissioner of Indian Affairs or the Secretary of the Interior, by men who desire the lands of any tribe, to induce a recommendation for their removal.  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
052.sgm:<P>The Nez Perce war of 1877 was caused by an attempt to force Joseph's band of Lower Nez Perces to abandon their own home, their title to which had never been extinguished, and go upon the Lapwai Reserve.</P>
052.sgm:<P>All our troubles with the Chiracahua Apaches since 1876 have come from our attempts to remove them from their native mountains to an unhealthy and intolerable place for mountain Indians, to live with a band unfriendly to them.  The wars with Victorio's Apaches resulted from the discontinuance of their reservation, and an order for their removal to San Carlos.  The war with the northern Cheyennes came from an attempt to make them stay in the Indian Territory, which proved unhealthy for them.  The shame and disgrace of the Ponca removal is yet fresh in mind, and a war, which would have marked the path hewn by them from the Indian Territory back to their old home in Nebraska, would have been a legitimate outcome of this outrage had Standing Bear's band been stronger.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Hualapais, removed to the Colorado River, escaped extermination, so unhealthy was the new home, only by fleeing from it in a body.  The list might be indefinitely extended, but those who make our laws touching Indian affairs, and those entrusted with their administration, seem incapable of learning anything from the history of the past.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The present Commissioner of Indian Affairs returns, in his last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:report, to his recommendations in regard to the removal of the Cheyennes and Arapahoes, Wichitas and associated tribes, so that the clamor about Oklahoma may be hushed, and politicians, urged forward by their constituents who want these lands, are unwearied in their efforts to have this outrage committed.  The friends of the Indian ought to take tenable ground in their opposition to this, lest in mistaken efforts to maintain, <HI REND="italics">pro forma</HI>
052.sgm:<P>It is already apparent that the time of the land-grabber is short, and that what he does to rob the Indian of his land must be done quickly, before the severalty law gives it to him by an inalienable title.  Efforts in this direction will be earnest and unremitting; the vigilance and efforts of the Indians' friends must not be less so.</P>
052.sgm:<P>THE CHEYENNE AND ARAPAHOE RESERVATION. My letter from the Secretary of War to Col. Sumner, Commandant at Ft. Reno, was considered by him as an equivalent to an order which he was quite ready to honor to the fullest extent.  He insisted on my making his house my headquarters, and was ready to send me anywhere within his bailiwick I chose to go; put his interpreter and guide, Ben. Clarke, at my service, and after carrying me over the Cheyenne and Arapahoe Reservation around Darlington, sent me out in four-mule grandeur to visit the Seger Colony on the Washita, and to the Kiowa and Comanche and Wichita Agency at Anadarko, with an escort, wagon, tents, cook, guide and interpreter, rations, scouts, etc., under command of Lieut. Keene.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I thus had unusual opportunities to learn the condition of things.  I sent the outfit back from Anadarko, and spent a week <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>Now as to the observations at Darlington, and the Cheyenne and Arapahoe Reservation.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Agent of the Cheyenne and Arapahoe Indians, Mr. Williams, was clerk for Capt. Lee, who was Agent in charge after Dyer was removed, and was his choice for successor to himself.  He impressed me as a very pleasant, gentlemanly fellow--a good and accurate clerk; good for indoor, routine work, but with no push or great force.  He was said to be fond of his toddy when he was clerk, and perhaps it is true that he has not been a total abstainer since he became Agent, but I could not learn that his habits had interfered with his duties.  He has no inclination to drive out and look after his people, and when driving about with me, even in the immediate vicinity of the Agency, had to rely upon the interpreter to tell who and what Indians were cultivating the various farms.  It was evident that he had no personal knowledge of the men and what they were doing.  It was also manifest here, as at some other places, under the policy which is in vogue, of sending clerks from Washington, that his duties in the office would not allow him to give attention to outside affairs.  His clerk, a very nice, good man, is utterly incompetent to do the work of the office, and the Agent had to be clerk.  I think Capt. Lee's assertion in his report that "in two out of three of the appointments made at this Agency the department was evidently misled as to qualifications and fitness," was not far from true, at least it is charitable to believe so.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The largest salaries are usually paid to incompetent favorites, and the work is done by those who have the smallest salaries.  This is true of the farmers especially.  In the carpenter and blacksmith shops, where there are a number of employe&acute;s, the Agent remarked, as we went away after visiting them, that the only man who was at work was the one man he had been allowed to appoint.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Indians are scattered out over a vast territory.  Two colonies have gone out; one to the Cantonment, sixty miles away to the north, where the Mennonites have a school, and where there is a good, active farmer in charge, named Potter.  Another, under Mr. Seger, has gone some sixty miles west-of-south, on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>If Mr. Williams will only do what he can for this enterprise, Mr. Seger will make it a great success.  He is placing his Indians on superb lands, with reference to allotments of 320 acres, and is now ready to begin this work with his people, under the Severalty bill.  The Indians, I think, have been benefited both by the leasing of their lands and also more especially by the abrogation of these leases.  They received money from the leases which enabled them to buy unaccustomed luxuries, for which they acquired a taste.  They now are learning that they can get more from the cultivation of their own lands than from the cattle-men, and a most encouraging activity has characterized them this season, and they had been favored, up to the time of my visit, by unusually fine weather and good rains, but, unfortunately, a drought during the later season blasted their hopes.  With wise and earnest teachers, the outlook for them, especially the Cheyennes, would be most hopeful.  It is a great pity that it cannot be said that the employe&acute;s are all of this character.  They are better on the average than those at Ponca and Pawnee, but not what they ought to be.</P>
052.sgm:<P>A member of the Senate Committee asked me to find out, if I could, whether or not there was gambling at this Agency, among the employe&acute;s.  If common report can be trusted, there is no doubt of it.  I did not learn that the Agent is involved in it, but some of the other employe&acute;s and persons licensed to be there are.  The impression is strong among the officers at the post, and in the minds of others whom I am not at liberty to mention, that the store of one of the traders is a gambling place, and that in many ways his presence is not helpful to the Indians.</P>
052.sgm:<P>While there I witnessed a beef issue of ninety-six head.  The beef were small; the Lieutenant who officially witnessed the issue says unusually small.  A number of the steers were of ancient date, and exceedingly thin and scrawny, quite unlike the beef furnished by the same contractor at Anadarko.  The manner of issue is heathenish and cruel, and should be stopped, if not for these reasons, because dangerous.  They are issued on foot and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>I visited the Cheyenne School at the Caddo Spring, some two or three miles from the Agency.  The location is a fine one, near a large and excellent spring.  The natural drainage is good, and when the sewer and drainage pipes are put in all refuse water will be thoroughly disposed of.  The privies were the cleanest I have ever seen in connection with a public institution.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Superintendent, R. P. Collins, I believe to be well fitted for his place, and anxious to do his full duty.  The school is in pretty good shape--the dormitories clean as could be expected, well ventilated, but too much crowded; the bathing facilities very deficient; no place to care for the sick.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Mr. Collins was drawing stone for the windmill with which to force the water from the spring into the school buildings, which will be a great improvement.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Mrs. Collins and Mrs. Hoag, an excellent Quaker lady, were doing good, conscientious and intelligent work in the school room.  The classes are much broken up by details of boys to work the garden and corn, and of girls for the laundry and other work.  Mr. and Mrs. Collins were dropped from the roll of employe&acute;s at the close of the year, and so are lost to the service.  This is unfortunate, as they were about the only efficient members of the Agency force at that point.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I visited also the Arapahoe school, under the care of the third Superintendent appointed to it during the year, C. H. Steibolt, and, judging from appearances, it would be charitable to suppose each succeeding appointment had been worse than the preceding, for it would be difficult to believe there could have been a worse than the last.  There had been four different industrial teachers during the year, four matrons, four assistant matrons, four seamstresses.  Miss Lamond, the only teacher in the school who knew how to teach, had been twice teacher and once matron during the year.  The larger children in the principal room were under the charge of Miss Lamond; the room was clean, the children prompt and in good shape, the work done above the average of school work in Indian Reservation schools.  The next room, under the care of Miss Penington, was nasty--the children slovenly in manner.  She is what would be called in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>There was another small room with a few desks, in which the Superintendent's wife is supposed to hear classes, but no one was in it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The dormitories were close, nasty, and unbearable as to smell.  I was in time to see the children at dinner.  The dining room was under care of Minnie Yellow Bear, just home from Carlisle, who was said to be an excellent Assistant Matron (since made laundress) and Miss Fager, Assistant Matron, and was in good condition.  The tables were neat, the food well prepared, the children well behaved.  The cook is a part Indian, and her kitchen was up in good shape.  I was told that when the present Superintendent took charge of the school there were ten milk cows, and the children had plenty of milk--that now he sends to the Mennonite school to get what he needs for his own family use.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Miss Lamond, Minnie Yellow Bear, and Miss Mudeater, the cook, are about the only redeeming elements in the school; what the others might be under a decent and efficient Superintendent of course I cannot tell, but the school can never be anything under his management.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I also visited the Mennonite Mission School, under charge of Rev. H. R. Voth.  I spent a large part of the Sabbath with him, the day before this visit to his school.  He has some forty-nine children; all live together as a family, eating at the same table.  His school, I think, is doing very good work.  The children are taught to do all kinds of household and farming work, under kind supervision and wise instruction.  The house was clean, and evidently the work done is honest and sensible.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Agent seemed very chary of me at first, and reticent, and hard to get at, but gradually became more free and communicative.  He had a letter, while I was there, from the second Comptroller of the Treasury, saying that he would commence proceedings against him, civil and criminal, because of the condition of his reports, and failure to comply with the law.  I said that I would watch with interest a case brought to trial against <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>I think there will be no serious trouble about beginning the work of allotment among the Indians on this reservation; especially if Mr. Seger were empowered to commence among the people of his colony, and the Indians were aided by the Government to the extent they are entitled under their treaty.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It is a question whether or not they are entitled to 320 acres.  The treaty which gave them a Reservation farther north, on lands occupied by others, allowed them to take land in severalty--320 acres--and when so selected they were to have $100 the first year to purchase farming implements, seed, etc., and $25 per annum after that for three years.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It was found, as I have said, that the land described in their treaty was not the land they supposed they were getting, which was occupied in part by other Indians, and so after correspondence and recommendations by the Secretary and Commissioner, the President, by Executive Order, set apart this reserve in lieu of their treaty reserve.  If he had power to do this, it would follow that the provisions of the treaty would attach also to this reservation, and they should have their 320 acres instead of 160, and Mr. Seger is locating the Indians in his colony with reference to this larger amount.  This is a matter that may give rise to delicate complications.</P>
052.sgm:<P>THE SEGER COLONY. My visit to the Seger Colony was the most interesting and instructive part of my whole journey, and Mr. Seger impresses me as, on the whole, the most successful man I have ever met in the Indian Service.  If such men as he could be put in charge of the Indians it would matter little what the faults of the system under which they work, provided it did not absolutely tie them up and prevent altogether any effort; the work would go forward in spite of obstacles.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Mr. Seger has undoubtedly a genius for inspiring and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The statement he gave me, at my request, of the origin and progress of his colony is in itself so admirable, and so full of encouragement, and so illustrative of what might be, and ought to be done, that I give it in full.  Mr. Seger is not an educated man: his writing, spelling and grammar are about as poor as I have encountered, and so I have ventured to correct these to some extent, but otherwise his letters are as he wrote them, for it would be impossible, to me, to improve them.  His language is that of an educated man, and his style as direct, manly and vigorous as is his method of doing business.  He does not give in this history of his enterprise a history of the difficulties which have beset him on every hand.  We can infer some of the delays, discouragements and defeats which have hindered his progress, but not one tithe of these are even hinted in his story.  One who learns something of them and then sees, with his own eyes, what he is really doing in spite of all this, will feel, as I do, a boundless admiration for the man.  Many of these difficulties are inevitable under a system of infinite red tape and restriction, and cannot be remedied under the system, however loud the complaints; some of them come, and most provokingly, from administration, and cannot be complained of without endangering the head of those who make complaints.  This and much more should be kept in mind by those who would understand the real value of Mr. Seger's work.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The pluck of these Indians has been put to a very severe test by the unfortunate occurrences of two very dry summers, which have destroyed their crops; and by the delay, and so far complete failure, of the Government to pay them the price promised for breaking land.  Up to the latest date, in spite of all these drawbacks, they are able to foot up about $4120 as the net increased value of their stock and improvements in the way of fencing and plowing.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I give also Mr. Seger's account of a previous experience in dealing with the problem of Indian Education, which ought to throw some light on the question whether the Indian could be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>MR. SEGER'S ACCOUNT OF HIS COLONY. </P>
052.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SEGER COLONY, May 28th, 1887.</HEAD>
052.sgm:<P>PROF. C. C. PAINTER--</P>
052.sgm:<P>DEAR SIR:--As you wished to know something of the history of this work, in which I am engaged, and how this colony came to be established, I will say:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1885--Captain J. M. Lee was then acting Indian Agent over the Cheyennes and Arapahoes--I was one of the unlucky number that was living on the Cheyenne and Arapahoe leased lands, and in obedience to the executive order was moving my family and effects off the reservation.  As I passed through the Agency I met Captain Lee for the first time, and we discussed the Indian problem sufficiently to find out that our ideas of the way to deal with the Indians were very much alike; and after probably one hour's talk, and before I left the office, the project of starting this Colony was hatched.  This was in October.  By hard work and a great deal of writing Captain Lee succeeded in getting the final arrangements made, and permission granted for starting an Indian Colony.  Though it was the next June before I was placed on the rolls as a Government employe&acute;, I began operations on the 23d of February, and from this time until June, when I was placed on the rolls as a Government employe&acute;, I cleared my wages by building wire fences around a pasture that was to be used for the Colony.  I used Indians for this work, and in six weeks' time had twelve miles of new fence, and had stretched the wire on twelve miles more, and done $150 worth of repairing on other fences.  From the money I received for this work I kept $75 per month for myself, and the remainder I paid to the Indians for their work, which placed in the hands of the Indians about $700 as the result of six weeks' work.</P>
052.sgm:<P>We had then a pasture for the beef cattle and one for stock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The first of January found us with 60 farms measured off ready to have the posts set around them.  There were at least 60 men ready to begin work who applied to me for spades.  As I only had four on hand, I went to the Agency and asked for a supply.  The Agent informed me that he had none on hand, but would apply at once for permission to buy some, which he did.  I knew this meant that we would not get them in time to use this season, so I stepped in at the trader's and bought four more, which, with the four we had, and one I borrowed, and one post auger I got hold of, I was able to put 10 implements in the hands of the 60 men for them to work with, and as there was no other work for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>If the Government would furnish this aid to the Colony, it need be but a very few years before they could take care of themselves.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Before bringing this letter to a close, I would ask to call your attention to the following facts:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>1st.  In a little over one year sixty Indians have chosen the place where they wished to live and own a farm.</P>
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052.sgm:<P>2d.  That fifty of these farms have improvements made on them.</P>
052.sgm:<P>3d.  Four young Indians bought wire for their fence, and built their fence, last fall, though they understood that if they waited until spring the Government would buy it for them.  Doing this saved the Government $90.</P>
052.sgm:<P>4th.  Have built five houses, and got out material for ten more.</P>
052.sgm:<P>5th.  They have taken good care of the cattle given them by the Government and bought, from money earned by themselves, five more head, and have pledged themselves to buy four milk cows as soon as we can find them for sale.  The increase of the herd is twenty calves.</P>
052.sgm:<P>6th.  They have bought eight head of horses and four mules more than they have sold.  Bought three wagons, three sets of harness, two cook stoves.</P>
052.sgm:<P>7th.  That we are located fifty miles from the base of supply and it takes one-fifth of the time to go after rations.  This interferes with farming to some extent.</P>
052.sgm:<P>8th.  Have bought no guns, to my knowledge.</P>
052.sgm:<P>9th.  The population of this Colony is 305 persons.  In the past year we have had no lawlessness of any kind.</P>
052.sgm:<P>If you can gather from this rambling sketch anything, it is at your disposal.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Yours very Respectfully,</P>
052.sgm:<P>J. H. SEGER.</P>
052.sgm:<P>At my request Mr. Seger gave me, for my own information, an account of his experiment, under Agent Miles, in getting Indian school children to support themselves.  I publish it, as also the history of his Colony, though it was not written by him with the least expectation that it would be so used.  I hope no one who would solve the Indian problem will fail to read these letters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SEGER COLONY, May 28th, 1887.</HEAD>
052.sgm:<P>PROF. C. C. PAINTER--</P>
052.sgm:<P>DEAR SIR:--As you wished to have me make a note of some of the results of my work in trying to civilize these Indians, I will state very briefly some of the methods used:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>In 1874, I was set to work by Agent J. D. Miles to show an Arapahoe how to plough and plant his field and fence it.  I succeeded in getting him to do about half the work in ploughing, planting and fencing five acres of ground.  At this time the Cheyennes were on the war path, and the Arapahoes were generally very insolent.  While we were at work, there would frequently some bands of young Arapahoes ride up to us and try with taunts and jeers to get Curly (for that was the Indian's name) to give up his farming.  At one time Curly bared his breast to them and showed a number of ugly scars and dared them to call him a squaw; he told them he was not a man with two hearts.  When he was an enemy to the whites he procured his own food and blankets, and now as he was eating their food and receiving kindness from them he was willing to learn to provide for himself by cultivating the earth, as he was convinced that that was the road all the Indians would finally have to travel.</P>
052.sgm:<P>This Indian was the only one that farmed that season.  1875.  J. D. Miles placed me in charge of what was then called the Arapahoe Mission School, though it was run by the Government.  When the first term closed it was called the Arapahoe Industrial School.  With Indian boys belonging to the school we planted and cultivated 50 acres of corn and a garden, and cut the wood for the school.</P>
052.sgm:<P>1876.  The school building was enlarged to accommodate one hundred children, and then the Cheyennes put their children in school for the first time.  The proceeds of the corn crop raised in 1875 was invested in cattle, paying for thirty-two head.  In 1876 the school, under my charge, raised 100 acres of corn and a large garden.  One-half of this crop was turned over to the Government, and the other half sold and invested in 100 head of two-year-old and yearling heifers.  The cattle were divided among the boys according to the work they were able to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>I bought forty-two head of cows at eleven and twelve dollars each, and placed them in the herd and sold them to the school children for the same that I paid.  As a good deal of the work about the school was done by the children, for which they received small pay, I persuaded them to invest a small portion of their wages in the purchase of cows.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The girls that worked in the laundry, sewing room and kitchen were soon the owners of a cow each.  The forty-two head were soon closed out and paid for by the school.</P>
052.sgm:<P>One young Indian woman that worked in the laundry paid for three head.  One Cheyenne woman traded buffalo robes for twenty-five two-year-old heifers, and gave them to her daughter, who was in school.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Agent Miles and myself, after considering the matter, concluded that this school herd and farm could, in time, support the school, so that the school would not only become a Manual Labor and boarding school, as we then called it, but it would be a Manual Labor and self-supporting school.  With this end in view, with the Indian boys I hauled logs for a house, which, with the help of Agency carpenters, was built at Caddo Springs, three miles north of the Agency.  The cattle were moved up to that place, and I detailed three boys to take care of the ranch and cattle.  With the Indian boys I put up a stack of hay which was sold out to passing freighters at the rate of one cent per pound, an Indian boy selling the hay kept account of the money and turned it over to me, and it was used for a contingent fund for the school.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Northern Cheyennes who had been sent down to this Territory were not willing to put their children in the same school with the Arapahoes.  Agent J. D. Miles had a temporary building put up at Caddo Springs, near the log house before mentioned, large enough to accommodate fifty children, and I moved into the log house with my family and undertook to run the school of fifty children with one white lady to assist, and the work was done with large scholars from the other school.  The baking was done by a Cheyenne boy, and the sewing by an Arapahoe girl, the cooking by an Arapahoe girl assisted by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The school was taught by a Cheyenne girl who had got all her training from the other school.  The primary school of fifty children was taught and cared for with only one white person, who went from one department to another and had a general supervision of all the children of this school, started new from camp, except those who were employed to work, and they were taught in the school room by an Indian girl.  They left off at the close of a term of about four months with very few that could not read in the First Reader, and they could repeat many passages of scripture and sing hymns.  I kept raising corn and paying Indians for work, when they could take the place of white employe&acute;s, and got as many to invest their earnings in cattle as I possibly could.  A few benevolent people donated a small amount toward the herd, and in one way and another we had a herd of 400 head of cattle.  Of these, 150 head belonged to the school as an endowment fund; the remaining 250 belonged to the school children individually.  About this time an Indian Inspector came and looked over the herd and inquired into the plan and was pleased with the prospect.  He recommended that 400 heifers be given to the school by the Government, which was done, and there is where our reverses set in.  Before these cattle were given to the school the Government had no claim on the herd, as it had been earned mostly by the Indians themselves, and what little had been given was the property of the Indians as a school, not of the Government.  The Agent did not have to account for this herd any more than he did for the Indian ponies and their lodges.</P>
052.sgm:<P>But when the Government gave 400 head of cattle, the Agent had to take them up on his books and had to account for them and become responsible.  The Indian boys now had to take care of double the number of cattle, and they did not know to whom half of them belonged.  Their own cattle they knew how they came by--they had earned them, one at a time; some of them they had watched grow up from cunning little frisky calves until they had become cows and the mothers of other calves.  The boys, when they were detailed on herd, could point out their own cattle to their fathers and mothers and friends and could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The boys lost a great deal of interest in taking care of the herd, as there were so many cattle belonging to the Government, and so few belonging to the children.  I lost my interest in the scheme, as the Government had jumped my claim, and I gave up the job.  The Agent soon found it was necessary to hire a white man to take charge of the herd.  This cost, I think, $75 per month.  The herd being larger, it required more horses.  The Government must buy horses to herd these cattle.  The Agent must take them up on his accounts and be responsible for them.  The result was, the Inspector came, recommended that the herd all be issued out to the school children, and their parents should take them to camp and take care of them.  This was done, except the taking care of them.  The majority of the children do not know what became of their cattle.  I know many of them were eaten up the next winter; many sold for half price; some strayed away for want of care; a few of them were kept and the Indians have been content to kill only the increase.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I am fully satisfied that if the Government had let that herd alone, that to-day, with the farming that could have been done by the children, the schools would cost the Government at least $10,000 less per year than at present, and the school children could mostly have been located near the schools by the Government helping them to improve a small place, and much of this help could have been furnished by the school.  Oxen could have been taken from the school herd to break the ground, and as the school boys all knew how to plough, the cost of starting a home for each boy as he grew up would have been trifling.</P>
052.sgm:<P>When I left the Indian work, I did not expect again to engage in it, though I remained in the country, and hired Indians to work for me.  I have paid them thousands of dollars:  have employed them to carry mail, make brick, put up hay, tend mason, excavate for cellars and cisterns, cut cord wood, herd <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>In the above statement I wish to show that Indians can and will work; that if their labor is properly utilized it will support them.  The fault is not with the Indians that they are not self-supporting, but with the policy that tries to make men and women of them by feeding them as Indians.</P>
052.sgm:<P>In the case of this school here, there was $10,000 worth of cattle thrust upon these Indians whether they wanted them or not.  They had no corrals, no permanent abiding place:  they were here to-day and there to-morrow, and were not ready to take care of cattle except in their way--which was to kill them and to eat them.</P>
052.sgm:<P>In the case of the school herd there was $5,000 worth of cattle that had cost the Government nothing.  They were purchased with the earnings of the school, and the natural increase of the herd: they were accumulated as a white man accumulates stock.  The children valued them as a white man values his stock.</P>
052.sgm:<P>With the above account of the school herd before you, need I tell you what the drawback was?  If so, I will answer by using an old proverb, which is this--"Too many cooks spoil the broth."</P>
052.sgm:<P>Yours truly,</P>
052.sgm:<P>J. H. Seger.</P>
052.sgm:<P>There stands a mournful monument, or rather several of them, at this Agency, of the power there is in the hands of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs to wreck the fortunes of those who have invested them in Indian trade.  These consist of several buildings -- stores, dwelling-house, warerooms, etc., which belonged to the firm of Hemphill and Woy, recent traders at this Agency.  These men swear that these buildings cost them $13,000, and that they had other investments in the way of fences, appliances for drying and baling hides, wagons, unexpired insurance, outstanding accounts, etc., amounting to almost $15,000; and a stock of goods which inventoried, just before they were forced to leave the reservation, almost $30,000, making, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>They offered to sell their building to Mr. Baker, the new trader, for $5,000, and the goods in store for 60 per cent. of cost, but were unable to get it.  Their buildings are idle and empty, except that the Agent has stored some Agency goods in one of them; their goods they brought away at great expense, but have no sale for them; their outstanding debts are all lost; both partners are bankrupt, and their indebtedness, on closing up, is almost $21,000.</P>
052.sgm:<P>ANADARKO, KIOWA AND COMANCHE AND WICHITA RESERVATIONS. The first noticeable fact of importance at this point is the need of a bridge across the Wichita River in place of the one condemned and closed to all except footmen.  The river at the time of my visit was too high for fording, and but for the fact that the bridge, though unsafe, can still be used, it would be difficult to furnish supplies to the Wichita school, or conduct the affairs of the Agency, which are partly on both sides of the river.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Agent here is Capt. J. Lee Hall, of Texan Ranger fame.  He is a native of North Carolina, but has been in Texas for a number of years, and did that State excellent service as Captain of a company of rangers engaged in the work of clearing it of outlaws.  He is a man of nerve and reckless personal daring, and of untiring energy.  I was prejudiced against him by reports from Lone Wolf and others, and was prepared to examine most critically both him and his work.  On telling him, on my arrival, that I wanted to see all I could in a very short time, so that I could get back with the Post ambulance and outfit, he said I could not get back at the time I had named--that it was the first time any one representing the ideas of our Association had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>He had a council the next morning after I got there, to talk over some matters with the Indians.  They were just sending delegates to Muscogee or Talequah, to consult in regard to matters with the other Indians of the Territory.  It came out that one object was to talk over the Severalty Law, and no doubt the Indian Defence Association and the delegates of the five civilized tribes will use the occasion to work against the measure.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I had a long talk with them, through three interpreters.  A newly returned Carlisle Kiowa interpreted to his people, the Agency interpreter for the Comanches, and an Indian connected with the Wichita school for the Wichitas, Caddos and Delewares.  It is very evident that they fear this is a scheme to unsettle their title to their lands.  The Kiowas especially, through Sun Boy and Lone Wolf, have been made very much afraid of it by the Indian Defence Association.  The Comanches were not represented in the council excepting by a few, and those present shared the feeling of the Kiowas.  I explained to them fully the provisions of the Law, showed how it gave lands to those on Executive Order Reservations who have no title of any character which they fully appreciated; explained that it took none of the surplus lands which were protected, as theirs is, by a treaty--which relieved them, to some extent, of their greatest fear; but still it is a new thing which they cannot measure, and they know not what it may drag along behind it.  They feel more secure of what they now have than of what this may bring them.  Capt. Hall says the Comanches, who are the progressive ones on that side the river, who are near Sill and Mt. Scott, are in favor of the measure, and ready, many of them, for allotment.  I went down there to meet them, but found they were south of Red River, having gone down into Texas to trade, as they were in a quarrel with their traders, and so I could not, by personal interview, learn their wishes.  Mr. Jones, Post interpreter at Sill, who is a great friend of the Indians and has been among them for 25 or 30 years, also says the Comanches are ready for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The Kiowas and Comanches are very unlike, and it is unfortunate that they are thus associated on the same reservation.  The Comanches are intelligent, industrious, virtuous, and ready to go forward, are comparatively free from disease, and are increasing in numbers.  They have a contempt for the Kiowas, and very reluctantly send any of their children--the girls they will not send--to school with the Kiowa children.  The Kiowas are just the reverse of what I have said of the Comanches.  I have never seen so many buggies and light carriages among Indians as these people have.  Their horses are more than mere ponies, and are of good quality, and if furnished with a few blooded stallions, they would soon be well provided with herds of horses fit for market or use.  Many of them are getting cattle, and if a wise policy was only adopted and adhered to, they would soon be able to care for themselves.  Capt. Hall has now on hand, to their credit, some $60,000 or $75,000 lease money, and fines collected for trespass.  He advised the Commissioner, so he informed me, that it would be the best possible thing to buy heifers with it.  He authorized him to do so, and on reaching home he (the Captain) advertised for the cattle.  The traders saw this money was going elsewhere than into their tills, and the cattle men saw that if the Indians became ranchmen and cattle owners, they would want their own land now occupied by them, and would become producers, and not mere consumers of beef.  Immediately they made such a vigorous protest that the Commissioner wrote Hall that his proposed purchase was without authority, and he was forbidden to make it.  Thirty thousand dollars of the $90,000 then in hand was paid over to the Indians, and went for things unnecessary, or that had little relation to their permanent improvement.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Agent is now much discouraged by the action of the Department in the matter of the new contract for beef.  In the first place, the amount contracted for the new year is 500,000 lbs. below the issue of last year.  Last year the contractor made a weekly delivery, the cattle being weighed at time of delivery.  This year they go back to the plan of the previous year, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The difference between the bid of this contractor and of the old company, who would have furnished a weekly issue of cattle raised in the Territory, is the difference between $2.39 and 2.44--a small showing to the credit (?) of the Commissioner, but a heavy loss to the poor Indians, out of whose stomachs, or out of whose little herds, which they are beginning to raise, it must be made good.  It is already reported, before the winter is more than half gone, that there is a deficiency of beef.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Agent is making great progress in getting his Indians to raise corn.  He estimates that they will have from 40,000 to 50,000 bushels of this cereal to sell next autumn if the season continues favorable; but where can they sell it?  No white man would raise that amount of corn in this country unless he had the cattle or the hogs to consume it.  It seems that all efforts to push the Indian along must be expended in directions blocked by nature or circumstances.  If this effort at corn raising had been expended in cattle raising, it would be more hopeful.  To raise a vast crop of corn, more than the Indian needs (having his rations, he needs but little), which he cannot convert profitably into money or its equivalent, is a mistake; for the more he raises, the more discouraged will he be.</P>
052.sgm:<P>There are several hundred acres of wheat also on the reservation, some of it looking very finely, but scattered as it is over this great reservation, it will be difficult to harvest and thresh it with out a large percentage of loss.  Whatever may be said about the advantage of a diversified agriculture, of which everything favorable can be said, yet until a market for civilized products is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>Corn can be safely counted on about once in three years, because of drought, but grass is a constant and almost unvarying quantity.  It would certainly seem as if we might take nature into our confidence and have her for an ally in the work of Indian civilization, rather than fight against her and attempt to force her to come to our foolish plans.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I went down to Fort Sill, some 40 miles from the Agency, through a fine country and past some very fine corn and wheat fields.  Col. Pierson, of the post, very courteously entertained me, and furnished an ambulance, interpreter, and Indian scout to go with me.  Capt. Hall and I, thus accompanied, drove about the reservation, and selected a site for the new Comanche school, bids for the erection of which will soon be advertised for.  We selected the crown of a beautiful hill, about 2 3/4 miles from the post, in case sufficient water can be developed in a spring near it--of which we had no doubt. </P>
052.sgm:<P>Sill is a beautiful post, built mostly of blue limestone, of which there is an abundance near the site selected for the school, with accomodations for quite a number of troops, with stone corrals for horses and necessary stock.  This post will undoubtedly be abandoned before many years, and would leave empty buildings for a splendidly equipped industrial training school.  We had this possibility in mind when we made selection of the school site, though deeming it the suitable point independently of this possibility.</P>
052.sgm:<P>This school is greatly needed at once, and would be immediately filled by the Comanches, who live mostly in this part of the reserve, and who will not allow their children, especially their girls, to go to the same school with the Kiowas:  and there is no room for them in that school, even if they had not this objection.</P>
052.sgm:<P>On Sabbath morning, I officiated on the bridge at a marriage ceremony, the bridal party being unable to ford the river or drive over the bridge; visited the Sabbath School of the Wichita School and spoke to the children.  Attended the white Sabbath School at the Agency in the P. M.; baptized a little child and made a small sermon at the close of the school.  In the evening <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>Next day visited the Kiowa school.  The Industrial teacher is doing good work with his Indian boys.  His corn was very fine, excepting where he had, unfortunately, planted some worthless seed sent out from the Department.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I was first introduced into the main room of the school, where an Hon. Judge from Texas, who has deserted bench and bar in behalf of these people, teaches the young Indian ideas how to shoot.  The Judge, I was informed, was the most distinguished lawyer in the county from which he hails.  It is well that he has attained distinction in some field of labor; he certainly would never achieve it in the field of pedagogy.  He is a little mite of a man--sallow, spiritless.  He had two boys and a girl droning away at reading.  He sat with one hand in the depths of his pocket, and about once a minute he would pronounce the word the pupil had been hung on since he pronounced the last.  He never rose to his feet without feeling for his knee-pans by way of his breeches pockets, using the stove for a spittoon.  He looked as if he had gotten out of his grave to find "a chaw of terbacker," and had lost his way and could not find his restingplace.  I never have seen such a perfect picture of the old field schoolmaster, and I have seen a number.</P>
052.sgm:<P>He had about 6 or 7 children in his room--all he could do justice to in the practice of expert expectoration.</P>
052.sgm:<P>In another room presided the wife of the Superintendent.  I have seen grace, beauty and intelligence in various proportions before, but never so combined as in this case, all of which were devoted to the problem of Indian Education.  She is a "fearful and wonderful maid," as the Psalmist would say.  And her teaching was worthy of the teacher.  She said, as also did the Hon. Judge, that she had the greatest difficulty in correcting the children in regard to the pronunciation of " <HI REND="italics">the&macr;</HI>
052.sgm:," they having been taught to call it " <HI REND="italics">the&breve;</HI>
052.sgm:<P>From this room I then went into that of Miss Davis, of Texas <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:also.  She was better--very much better, indeed.  She has conscience and purpose in her work, and was doing the very best she could, and if she only had a little training under some competent Normal teacher, would do good, first-rate work.  She <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
052.sgm:<P>The school was very small, most of the children being out, either in the field or in the laundry on detail; but it <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
052.sgm:<P>In going about the building, I noticed that the floors and stairways seemed clean, and I was anxious to see the matron, Mrs. Loper.  Whatever else she may or may not be, there are things said about her.  She, Miss Davis, Miss Murphy, the seamstress, and Miss Gee, a Cherokee half-breed, her assistant, are the grains of salt which save this school from absolute stench.  The Superintendent himself is a nice, well-meaning man; industrious, honest, and all that, and would make a good farmer, but has no faculty for managing a school.  The building is in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:fearful repair, the cistern accessible to all the dirt the children may choose to throw into it or the wind may blow into it, and the water can be drawn out only as you let a bucket down by a rope lowered and raised by hand.  The well is near by and in such situation it must be fouled from the building.  The boys have a tub, which stands under the front piazza, in which they perform their ablutions, so far as they do <HI REND="italics">ablute</HI>
052.sgm:.  The girls' bedroom is small, croweded, non-ventilated, and almost surrounded by the boys' rooms.  In the store-room I saw great quantities of baby hose, too small for any but babies of a year old, part of which has been issued to children almost grown.  The building is badly constructed, badly arranged, and fearfully out of repair.  It needs to be <HI REND="italics">cleaned out</HI>
052.sgm:<P>The Wichita School, on the other side of the river, where the old Agency stood before it was combined with the Kiowa and Comanche, moved up from Fort Sill, under Carl Schurz's administration--a thing that ought never to have been done--is in better hands and is doing better work.  The Superintendent, Mr. H., is from one of the Carolinas, is a Christian man, and has some Christian desire to benefit the children.  He is a Christian--a tobacco-chewing, nicotine-spitting one indeed--who throws his feet over the desk in front of him, and squirts away with the grace and precision which long practice can give alone to a true son of the South; but still, a wide-awake, earnest man is Mr. Haddon!</P>
052.sgm:<P>Miss Collins, of Illinois or Indiana, is a clean-cut, level-headed, Christian lady of culture and refinement; Miss Thompson, of Texas, is a Catholic girl of good sense and considerable vim, perhaps a better teacher even than Miss Collins, who is good.  The second assistant teacher, wife of one of the farmers, is one of the better class of no-accounts.  Her husband when he came on, a brother-in-law of one of the traders, informed the Agent that Commissioner Atkins was a very near and dear friend of his father.  He had the idea that there was considerable pay and no work and his duties consisted chiefly in taking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The school house is a miserable, thin, brick shell, which threatens perpetual collapse.  There is not a closet in it.  It needs to be torn down and a much larger one built in its place.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Agent has for clerk a Mr. Campbell, of Texas, if I remember rightly.  He can talk to you by the day, embellishing the talk with all varieties of expletives, of the Jeffersonian Democracy of his boyhood.  He can use up in various ways as much tobacco as most men; but to keep the books, make up the returns, do the work of a clerk, this he can no more do than he can fly.  His record as collector in kind of taxes in the days of the Confederacy, and as prison inspector in post-bellum days, as given and supported by affidavits, does not show him to be the kind of man into whose hands should be put the property interests of an Agency.  The Agent does not say he is dishonest, but says he has such a fatal faculty for confounding meum and tuum, that it takes time to unravel and find the line of right cleavage.  Until the issue clerk and Agent can make out the first copy of their returns, so that he can make the duplicate and triplicate copies, he has nothing to do whatever.</P>
052.sgm:<P>When I first saw the doctor, I was struck with him.  I took him to be a wood sawyer out of a job.  He is one of the roughest-looking customers you will find in a month's search; but on better acquaintance, judged him to be a kind-hearted man, and he was said to be a skillful physician; that never refuses the dirtiest squaw whatever attention she needs, and is ready to go night or day when called to go.  His name is Graves, from Texas.  Before coming here he was at the Ute Agency, at $1,200 per annum.  The doctor who was here got into a scrape, and had to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>In coming back from Anadarko to Darlington, we came through the Wichita, Caddo and Delaware Country.  I have never seen so good fences in any farming country as these Wichitas have; their corn is splendid, and free from weeds or grass.  Some of them have large herds of cattle and horses.  They build grass houses, the first I have seen; these are large, ingeniously made, warm, dry, neat.  These people are very religious, have a church of their own building, have a minister, and are great shouters.  All who join the church take part in praying and exhorting.  They are, as they claim, the original owners of the land they occupy and of much other.  Their title has never been extinguished.  When the Chickasaws were brought west, we went up to Kansas and treated with the Quaw-paws for this land, which they never owned.  We say they (the Wichitas) have no title except an unratified treaty.  The Secretary and President wanted me to consider the propriety of moving them over into Oklahoma, and so stop the clamor for that land, while this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The President had better violate treaty obligations touching <HI REND="italics">empty territory</HI>
052.sgm:<P>I found in Capt. Hall the best Agent in this part of the Indian field, so far as his work among and for the Indians is concerned.  He is not a class leader nor is he a teetotaler.  I suspect he quietly sips his strong tea oftener than is good for him, but do not think he gets drunk.  I never heard him swear, but am confident that he is an expert in that line.  He came here, as he told me, not for his salary, but to get rich.  He would not be mean enough to rob the Indian, but hoped to be on hand to get a big grab when these Indians were either bounced, or the country opened in some way.  He fought the unruly elements among them at the imminent peril of his life.  He has disarmed their hatred of him, except in a few cases.  He has heartily espoused their cause, as against cattle men.  He fights their battles for them on every hand: perhaps obeys orders in regard to keeping cattle off more perfectly than is desired by the Bureau--he sometimes thinks so.  He has driven out some of the most worthless appointees, and will keep it up until he or they go.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I am satisfied that either this Agent will have to go, or the Department will have to reform its management of affairs; for he is too independent to submit to the conditions imposed, and, as I believe, too earnest in his efforts to advance his Indians, not to protest most vigorously against the character of the employe&acute;s sent out to him.  He says they are taken largely from a class of people in the South who know nothing either of teaching or of business, and are too lazy to do anything, even if they knew how to do it.  The difficulties under which all Agents of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>After visiting a number of Agencies, proof, both positive and negative, forces the conviction that there is a system of terrorism operated by the Department, which seeks to enforce absolute approval of all its men and methods as the price to be paid for continuance in office, and that dissent will be regarded and treated as proof of insubordination and unfitness for the service.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Gen. Phifer, who was in the Wichita School, a drunken and profane fellow, who abused the children, insulted the teachers, and over whom the Indians held a council, some of them imitating him by crowding their hands in their pockets, spitting profusely and swearing most fearful oaths; this Phifer, the Agent fired out.  He was ordered to find some place for him, if he would not do for the school; but Hall would not have him.  The General was ordered to Washington to have the matter investigated, got into the calaboose for drunkenness, and then Mr. Lamar's confidence in him was shaken and he was dropped.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I was not able to get down to the Osage Reserve, but hear from many and reliable sources the condition of things.  They have just had a new Agent sent them, an army officer.  They have had two Agents, then an Inspector in charge for some time, and now this army officer.  The changes there have been frequent and without improvement to the service.  A special Agent from the Department of Justice, who has been down there, says the whole management has been most disgraceful.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I was unable to accompany Mr. Platt's Committee to this Agency, though invited to do so.  They went down on Saturday, and there went out an associated press despatch immediately after their visit, that these Senators and the Deputy Commissioner witnessed a dance on Sunday, which was led by some of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>From independent but concurrent witnesses I heard that the Superintendent of the Kaw School is a profane and vulgar fellow, and that his wife is more fit for a companion to him than for a teacher and example for the children.</P>
052.sgm:<P>There will be many changes, it is to be hoped, after the first of July, and a report made on the condition of things as they are would not have the same value as if made late in the autumn.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It is of great importance that we shall give particular attention to many things down here.  This Territory has been made the especial harvest field for the Tennessee and Mississippi cormorants, and it must be cleaned out before we can hope for any improvement in the service.  The battle for and against severalty will have to be fought here chiefly.  The head men and chiefs of the civilized tribes, in league with Washington obstructionists, will do all they can here to defeat the measure, and prevent those in the Territory who are not excepted from its operation from accepting it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Two illustrative facts showing the calibre of the men employed to teach the Indians our Christian civilization, came to my attention.  The Superintendent of the Kaw School allowed the cook and laundress to continue on for a full month after the school year 1886, under the impression that they were still in the service of the Government, doing the work for his family, and then refused them compensation.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Mr. Young, the clerk in charge at Otoe, employed the woman who was cook at the time of my visit, and insisted that she must be on hand July 1st, which she was, at some considerable inconvenience, but though she did the work, she was allowed no compensation for it for the months of July and August: her wages commenced with the opening of the school in September.  As the school reports show that salaries for these employe&acute;s run for the whole year, and not for the ten months of the school <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>One comes back from an inspection of these various Agencies and an estimate of the men engaged in the work of civilizing the Indians with the conviction that there is a deterioration in the personnel of the force, and a retrogression in the work.  This strong conviction is fully borne out by the report of the Secretary of the Interior for the year ending June 30th, 1887, compared with the report for the year ending June 30th, 1884, as in the following figures, which do not embrace the five civilized tribes of the Indian Territory:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>1884.<HSEP>1887. Acres of Land under cultivation,<HSEP>229,768<HSEP>238,000 Bushels Wheat raised,<HSEP>823,299<HSEP>750,000 Bushels Corn,<HSEP>984,318<HSEP>950,000 Bushels Oats and Rye,<HSEP>455,526<HSEP>470,000 Bushels Vegetables,<HSEP>497,597<HSEP>514,000 Feet Lumber Sawed,<HSEP>4,416,935<HSEP>1,552,079 Horses owned by Indians,<HSEP>235,534<HSEP>392,000 Mules,<HSEP>3,405<HSEP>3,000 Cattle,<HSEP>103,324<HSEP>113,000 Swine,<HSEP>67,834<HSEP>46,000 Sheep,<HSEP>1,029,869<HSEP>1,120,000 Tons of hay cut,<HSEP>71,828<HSEP>102,000 Indians who wear citizens' clothing,<HSEP>82,642<HSEP>58,000 Speak English for ordinary purposes,<HSEP>25,794<HSEP>25,000 Families engaged in industrial pursuits,<HSEP>31,191<HSEP>31,000</P>
052.sgm:<P>Assuming that the Agents are equally trustworthy in their estimates--it is evident that those for 1887 are given simply in round numbers--the showing is not creditable to the present administration, but more favorable than one acquainted with the condition of things on many of the reservations would anticipate.  Entire candor will force the confession that all such figures and estimates might be classed as "fictitious literature," but there is no reason to suppose the present Agents will average more accurate or moderate in their guesses than those who guessed three years ago.</P>
052.sgm:<P>If we turn to the Hon.  Secretary's report of schools for the past year, and compare this with the report for 1884, we shall find facts which militate somewhat against the claim made for greater economy, as the figures above do against the claim for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>That these schools cost so much more is a matter of surprise; that they are doing less is not, to one who has visited a large number of them, and need not be to one who, though he has no chance to see the quality of the average teacher employed, learns that twenty-five of the seventy reservation boarding-schools had two or more, seven of them three, and the seventy had in all one hundred and two superintendents during the past year.  In these 70 schools there are, in all, 560 positions to be filled, and they had appointed to them, in all, 1182 incumbents.  One school in the Indian Territory was blessed with fifty appointees to the 14 positions to be filled, and several of these were vacant when the year closed.  It had 3 superintendents, 6 teachers, 4 industrial teachers, 4 matrons, 4 assistant matrons, 4 seamstresses, 4 laundresses, 6 shoemakers and the position vacant when the year closed, 3 cooks, etc., etc.  If every change had been for the better, the changes, of themselves, would prevent any other result than that shown by a comparison of the figures given by the Hon. Secretary.  It seems strange it did not occur to him to make the comparison I have made; perhaps he assigns the reason for not doing so when he says, "I have no pleasure in contemplating or stating any unpromising features of our work among the Indians," though this was said in view of the fact that perhaps we may not always be able to depend upon the attractions of our civilization to win these people from a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>MISSION INDIANS. I reached Deming Friday, June 10th, from Albuquerque, via San Miguel, where we breakfasted, and Rincon, where we dined, at 3.45 P. M.  It was exactly two years ago that I breakfasted here, on my first trip to the Mission Indians.  At that time Gen. Crook was here, dispatching troops in all directions to intercept the hostile Apaches.  It was my plan then to visit the San Carlos Reservation, but I was advised not to attempt it without a sufficient escort.  Reaching here, after two years, with the same purpose, I was quite disconcerted when met with the same report.  A number of young men--how many no one seemed to know--were on the war path again, and said to be operating directly along the road over which I was to pass.  This fact had its influence upon my decision not to go to the reservation, which, however, turned chiefly on the fact that my trunk, with necessary papers, had gone astray, and the time set for me to meet a member of the Mohonk Committee on Legal Defence of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>Immediately after my return from California, just at the opening of the last session of Congress, I called the attention of the President to the three classes of these Mission Indians--those whose condition required Congressional action, those whose rights must be protected in the courts, and lastly, those who had been driven from the reservations set apart for them by the President, and urged that it was wholly within his power to remedy the wrongs under which the last class is suffering.  The President gave interested attention to the history of these cases, and said the remedy, so far as these were concerned, should be applied, and an order was issued for the removal of intruders from the Capitan Grande Reservation, which was to be enforced by the military, if necessary; and from the Reservation at Banning, on the 1st of September.  The purpose of my present visit was to learn to what extent the order had been carried out; to learn, by personal inspection, what the capacity of the several reservations to support the Indians already upon them, or who must be brought to them in case the courts should decide they had no right to a home on the grants on which some of them are living; to explain to the Indians the provisions of the Severalty bill, through which those on these reservations might now secure a permanent home; to see what the character of the lands on the old grants, from which the effort is making to eject the Indians living on them--whether sufficient in quantity and quality to justify the effort to defend the Indians' title; to see what nooks and corners of public land are still unoccupied, on which individual Indians might still find homes, under the homestead laws; and to learn, generally, the whole situation, so that whatever action may be taken by the friends of these people shall be taken intelligently.</P>
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052.sgm:<P>With Agent Ward, I went out to see the situation on the Maronge Reservation, at Banning.  When cleared of the fifty-seven intruders on it, and some $50,000 or $75,000 has been expended to develop the water, there could be put upon it nearly 200 families, with abundant land for their support.  There are now on it some ten or twelve Indian families, who have land and water, so that without the use of the above-named sum, some seventy or eighty families could be located in good shape, if the intruders are removed and the lands occupied by them given to those for whose use they have been set apart.  In company with Mr. John T. Wallace, Special Examiner from the Department of Justice, who was looking after violators of law in regard to selling liquors to Indians--the first one who has ever been sent out to these people--I made an extended trip among the Indians of San Barnadino and San Diego counties.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Mr. Ward, the Agent, who had planned to go with us, changed his mind and did not accompany us.  On the day we were to start he telegraphed the Department his resignation of his office, asking that he be relieved at the end of the month.  He did this in answer to a telegram which, under all circumstances, he regarded as insulting; he said this action was forced upon him by letters, telegrams, and a varied treatment of which no official could, under a decent administration, be made the subject.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Into this history I will not go now; but am fully satisfied that his removal was determined upon immediately after I reported, on his authority, the utter incompetence of a teacher sent out to have charge of the school at San Barnadino.  A war was begun at that time and never ceased until he has been forced, as he says, in self-respect, to resign his position.</P>
052.sgm:<P>COHUILLA. Leaving Colton on the 21st of June, by the Cal. Southern Railroad, a Mr. Bergmann met us at Temecula, with a fine span of horses, and drove that P. M. some twenty miles to Radec, to Bergmann's house, on our way to Cohuilla.  Next morning we drove fifteen or twenty miles to this reservation.  It is pretty well up on the mountains and contains some 17,420 acres of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>This addition I secured, through Mr. Lamar, from the S. P. R. R., but was not aware how good a thing I had done, until my visit.  The old reservation line ran through the hot spring, and near the school house.  A squatter had built a house on this unsurveyed R. R. section and was giving the Indians trouble, and ground for considerable anxiety.  The addition of this section settles all dispute as to the spring and pushes the squatter off the premises.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It is most excellent grass land, has always been used by the Indians as pasture, and is of itself, aside from the results above mentioned, a valuable acquisition, in fact, was vital to the Indians, who are very happy over it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>A Mrs. Parks and her two sons have built a number of houses along the western end of the reserve, hoping to secure all the land adjacent to that end of it, while they can also have free use of the reservation itself for pasture.  They have not cultivated the land, but keep several hundred head of cattle, which give the Indians much trouble and consume much of their grass.  They have put their best house so near the line that it is believed the porch is on the reservation.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The spring they use, and which they have fenced in, is on the reserve, as is also a very good barn.  There are on this reservation about sixty men, and in all--many of them off at Riverside and other places, at work--about 340 Indians, who claim this as their home.  They have some crops of barley and corn which are doing well this year, but the elevation is high and cold, and frosts are apt to catch their crops.  Cattle raising must be their chief dependence, and it can be made a source of ample competency, if not of wealth.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It will be seen that there is land to give nearly fifty-one acres to each man, woman and child, or more than 250 acres to a family of five, which is a large farm in California, but it is grazing and not farming land.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The school here has been taught since it was started, some five or six years ago, by a Mrs. Ticknor.  The school house is about 24x14 feet.  Mrs. T. has curtained off the rear end, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>There has recently been a change of Captains in this village.  Pablo has been elected in place of Juan Lugo, who kept whiskey in his house, and when drunk, came into the school house threatning the teacher with his pistol.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The present Captain is a bright, intelligent man, who has great interest in his people and in the school.  The Captain, if he does the work expected of him, ought certainly to have a ration issued to him by the Government.  His duties are more clearly defined than is his authority, which is sometimes exercised with more pomposity and arbitrariness than wisdom.</P>
052.sgm:<P>These Indians, so far as I saw them and could learn their wishes, are very anxious to have their lands allotted to them.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I called on <HI REND="italics">Ramona</HI>
052.sgm: at her little hut, and gave Alessandro some coin in memory of that morning when his mother fled down the trail, which I could trace a part of the way over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>This Temple, called Farrar by Mrs. Jackson in her story of Ramona, came from Tenn., and has been associated with a man, another scoundrel, named Fain (Mrs. Jackson spelled it Fane), also from Tenn., who murdered an uncle for his money, but was acquitted for lack of proof, one witness being his confederate, and an Indian, whose testimony would probably have convicted him, was found dead, hung up in his room, before the trial came on.  Both these men belong to most excellent families in East Tennessee.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It must be confessed that Ramona impresses one more favorably, as to beauty and intelligence, as she is described in the book than as seen standing by her hut.  She is full-blooded, very homely, and uninteresting.</P>
052.sgm:<P>AQUA CALIENTE. We took an early start the next morning, and made the twenty-five miles to Warner's Ranch--Aqua Caliente--by eleven o'clock, stopping at Puerta De La Cruz, one of the five Indian villages on Warner's Ranch.  Our driver and the Indians told me that twenty-five or thirty years ago there were about eight hundred Indians in this village.  The ruins of one house, once lived in by Valentine Mechuc, a very old, blind Indian whom I saw, is all that is left of quite a long street, once lined on both sides with houses.  The graveyard near by, filled to overflowing with graves, contains "the great majority."  Four families, occupying as many houses up on the hillside, overlooking the site of the old village, and with but <HI REND="italics">one child</HI>
052.sgm:<P>After our long dusty ride a bath in the waters of the hot spring at Aqua Caliente was most refreshing.  Miss Golsh has been teaching here since the school was first established, and was spoken of by Mrs. Jackson, with great enthusiasm, in her report.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>There are some 175 Indians here, and about twenty-two children in school.  The hot spring is a valuable property, or would be in the hands of men who could develop it--worth, perhaps, hundreds of thousands of dollars.  The flow of water is very large.  It is almost boiling hot, and affords relief to all but the most stubborn cases of rheumatism.  It is a source of income to the Indians; it is also a source of great corruption to the people, as it draws many corrupt men here who hire Indian houses and debauch the women.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Miss Golsh is a very remarkable woman, the daughter of an Austrian nobleman, I hear; very earnest in her efforts for the people.  She lives in the school house, and spends most of her salary in her efforts to relieve and help.  If it were not for the springs, this village would be very poor indeed.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The grant belongs to Ex-Gov. Downey, who, I believe, is under a guardian, and no movement is now making to eject the Indians.  There are yet doubts as to the title, and from what I hear, a white man might squat on it with impunity, as the claimant would be loth to bring the title to the test of a trial.  How long this quiet may last no one knows.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The man Helm, spoken of by Mrs. Jackson as annoying the Indians at the San Ysidro Can&tilde;on, is still fighting for his land, his case being now in court.  Further up the can&tilde;on, where Jim Fain, when Mrs. J. was here, was attempting to get a foothold, a Mrs. Ayers has also filed on another section of land, but has not been able to prove up; and between Helm and Fain, a Miss Ayers has had the same want of success, but all are holding on, hoping in time to establish their claim.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Along the foot of the mountain on the road to San Ysabel I counted some sixteen or eighteen Indian houses, with little fields in the can&tilde;ons.  I doubt whether any Agent or Commissioner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>In the afternoon I visited the school, and after school had a long conference with the men of Aqua Caliente.  I explained to them at length the Severalty bill, how it opened up a chance for them to go to the Banning Reservation and find good land, and make a home of their own.  Explained how we were trying to defend the Saboba Indians' claims to the San Jacinto Ranch, but had fears that we might not succeed; that their title was in the same doubt; that it was a title, at best, only to occupancy and use; that they could, at best, only make a poor living on it, and hold it by a tribal patent, etc., etc.  To all this they only said, this had always been their home, and they wanted to stay here.  Mr. Wallace gave them a strong lecture on the liquor traffic, which is destroying so many of them, and tried to get the Captain and others to furnish proof against men who were selling; but they were all "know nothings."</P>
052.sgm:<P>The school house here is adobe, and the most comfortable one we found in our whole trip, excepting the one at San Jacinto, but sadly in need of repair.  Mr. Wallace slept on the blackboard, I on a sort of box-bed, and our driver on the floor.  Miss Golsh did the best possible for us, and we came away with a very high opinion of her character and ability as a teacher and woman.</P>
052.sgm:<P>SAN YSABEL. The next morning we went over to San Ysabel Ranch, which has recently been sold by Mrs. Willcox to three men who have opened up three dairies on it.  The Agent had authority from the Department to build a school house here, and hauled his lumber for it, but was forbidden by these men to erect it.  He kept a guard over the lumber for some time, and then hauled it away to Mesa Grande.  Whether he applied for instructions to the Bureau, and got no answer, and was unwilling to enter upon what seemed to him a personal combat, as one of Mr. Ward's sons, who hauled the lumber, says, or whether he was ordered by the Department to take it away and avoid the contest I cannot say, but this is certain, the point was surrendered, the house not built, and the claimants scored a victory.  Mr. Ward then hired from an Indian an old adobe house for a school, and put in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>When I was there the teacher had the measles and the school was not in session.  The school house was not fit to be used for such a purpose.  These Indians live in a rincon, or round valley, and have had some six hundred acres under cultivation.  Their houses were all on one side of the valley, near the foot of the mountain, and their fields in the centre and on the other side of the valley, extending up into the little can&tilde;ons that open up from it.  A fire broke out some months since and burned their fences down, and they were forbidden to rebuild them.  A wire fence was then run between their houses and their fields, and they have not a foot of their land for crops, excepting one man, who is outside of this fence, and he pays half his crop for rent.  These men even built their fence across the county highway, and had a gate on it, which was locked, so that we were compelled to make a long detour to get around their fields.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Shirley Ward reasserts what he said last autumn, that it was understood between him and counsel for these parties, that the situation was not to be disturbed by them until a decision was reached in the Saboba case, which should be regarded as a test case, and was entirely ignorant of the fact that every foot, or any part of their lands, had been thus taken.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Indian title is good, if at all, only during their occupancy and use of their land, but as they have <HI REND="italics">vacated</HI>
052.sgm: these lands and the white man is in possession, it will require aggressive action to restore the status.  Ward, the Agent, either under instructions from Washington or by his own pusillanimity, yielded the contest in regard to the school building, and Ward, the counsel for the Indians, has allowed himself to be deceived by the counsel for these parties.  Immediate steps must be taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:to put them back in possession, until the question of their rights shall be passed upon by the courts.  If these were white men I would advise them to tear this fence down at once and hold their land <HI REND="italics">vi et armis</HI>
052.sgm:<P>There are here about 150 Indians, and twenty-two children of school age.  Up on the mountain, near by, lies the San Ysabel Reservation, containing 14,705 acres of land, set apart for these Indians, by executive order, in 1875, and all they have to do is to take themselves up there and hunt up such places as the squatters on it have left them, and make new homes.  The foolish sentiment that this valley has always been their home, that it contains the bones of their fathers, that they have cultivated these fields, and all that sort of sickly sentiment, having only Indians for its object, deserves, at least receives, no consideration whatever.  The fact, also, that these 14,705 acres are, almost every foot of it, steep mountain, is one of no moment whatever.  Two squatters on the reservation having appropriated about all the available land on it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I have no doubt there are nooks and corners on this reservation where many of these Indians could find a better place than the small patch of land they claim on the grant, but the general said:  "I will sooner lie down here and die than go from it," and this expresses the general feeling.</P>
052.sgm:<P>MESA GRANDE. From here we climbed six miles up to Mesa Grande, a small reservation of 120 acres.  All the way up we passed old fields which had once been cultivated by the Indians, but, having been left by them, have passed, beyond recovery, out of their hands.  The land is mostly very good and well watered; and is really a part of the San Ysabel Reserve, but cut off from it by interjected ranches.  There are on it some fifteen or eighteen families and 142 Indians, under Captain Narcisse, a rather important fellow.  They have three plows and one wagon.  The seed furnished last spring was very poor, and consequently their crops are bad this year.  They make their living chiefly by sheep-shearing and working for the whites.</P>
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052.sgm:<P>Agent Ward built them a school house last summer, using the lumber which had been hauled to San Ysabel.  A Miss Hord, of Mississippi, was teaching two pupils, the others being out sick with the measles, and one of the two present was sick.  She has twenty on her roll.  She seemed a very bright, nice young woman, and I think a good teacher.  She has done good service as doctor among the people, showing them how to care for the sick.  The Indians were in trouble, the progressive ones, with their captain, and are glad of the prospect that they may get out from under his control through the Severalty bill.  Juaquin, a sensible middle-aged man, wanted the Indians to take a herd of cattle, and have half the increase for taking care of it.  The captain would not assent.  He then went off by himself and took a small herd of goats, which his boy was herding for half the increase, while he worked out for a white man.  The captain, seeing Juaquin was doing a good thing for himself, thought he would take some cattle on the same terms, and demanded that Juaquin should put off the goats, and would have had him flogged when he refused but for the man for whom he was working.  He came to see me, and when I explained the Severalty bill to him, he went away full of hope that there would be a chance for him some time.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Certain facts which should be pondered very seriously have forced themselves upon my attention.  Suppose the cases against the Indians, commenced by the owners of these old grants, are decided in favor of the Indians, and the courts maintain their right to occupy the lands on which they are now living, just what will have been secured?  In the first place, the amount of land is small; secondly, it is for the most part well worn; thirdly, it is hemmed in by the grant, within whose exterior bounds it lies; fourthly, it is only a title of occupancy, which will inevitably lapse through removals and deaths; fifthly, it is a tribal title so far as it is a title, and perpetuates the tribal relations so long as it is maintained.</P>
052.sgm:<P>These several propositions are worthy very serious consideration on the part of those who are fighting the cause of these people, and desire their best interests.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The school house is new, and if it was not paralleled by some others to be seen out here, I would also say unique.  It stands on a sttep hillside; one side of the roof is much longer than the other, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>One of our horses had the misfortune to break his shoe and so injure his hoof that we were forced to give up our proposed thirty-mile ride to San Felipe, where there is an Indian village.  This is on a confirmed grant, our Government having issued a patent covering the grant.  Of course this has not settled anything, for the patent only confirms whatever right the grantee had, and is conclusive only as between the Government and patentee, leaving untouched the question of the Indians' rights of occupancy.  There are here some sixty Indians.  The grant has just been sold for a large price, and, though I have not positive information on this point, it is said, with the understanding that the title is to be cleared of the Indians' right of occupancy.  The grant is to be sold in small lots, and the Indians will have to go, unless steps are successfully taken to defend them.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Our driver, Mr. Bergman, who has lived on his place for twenty-five years, and knows everybody and every foot of land along our route, was constantly pointing out places on which Indians once lived, from which they were either driven outright or bought off for a sack of flour or a bottle of whiskey, or some such consideration.  He took me out of my way to show me a little valley in which five families are now living on Government land--an aggregate of fifteen people.  The old man, father or father-in-law and grandfather of most of them, has quite a little vineyard and orchard, with irrigating ditch and sufficient land for their support if it is secured to them.  I took the names of the men and the numbers of the sections on which they are located, and hope the steps I took will be followed up and the land secured to them.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I believe that if some one could be employed to go about and hunt up the land, little farms of ten, fifteen and twenty acres could be found, scattered here and there, for a very large number of Indians, and that it would be a practical and good thing to do in the settlement of these people.</P>
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052.sgm:<P>PACHANGO, PALA, PAUMA. The next points visited were Pachango, Pala Pauma, La Peche, La Jolla and Rincon.  A new and threatening danger hangs over all these excepting Pachango, which, so far as I know, does not come under its darkening shadow.  This is giving great anxiety both to whites and Indians, and all alike are uncertain as to what may come of it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Ocean-Side Land and Water Company is purchasing and claiming water rights all the way from Ocean Side, at the mouth of the San Louis Rey River, up to its head.  It has bought Golsh's land, just back of Veal's place, beyond the old Mission house at Pala, and has forbidden Veal to open up an old ditch of his, through which he used to irrigate.  It has bought, for $60,000, the Major Utt place, which lies up on the high Mesa, under the mountain.  The company commenced to dig for a dam near the mill, under the high bluffs, between Pala and Pauma; it is also digging in the can&tilde;ons above the Pauma village, and over at La Jolla and La Peche, and clear up to the very head of the river, posting notices of a claim to 10,000 inches of water.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Of course this is causing great alarm among the whites, and Indians too.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Mr. Coronel, of Los Angeles, a friend of Mrs. Jackson's, and regarded by the Indians as a father, had called a meeting of the Indians at Pala.  He and his wife, Mr. Rust and his daughter, sundry photographers and newspaper men from Los Angeles and San Francisco were on hand.  About one hundred Indians came, from all the principal villages and reservations in San Barnadino and San Diego Counties.  I got back from Rincon, La Jolla, etc., Monday night, and from then until Wednesday morning I had a busy time.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I explained the Severalty bill and urged its provisions.  Also, what we were doing with reference to the protection of those who are on grants, and assured them that they should have the utmost defence that could be made; but made no promise, and held out no misleading hopes as to the issue.  I asked them not to be too badly frightened as to the water company.  It might be their purpose only to develop and store the water, so as to make the most of it, with no intention of cutting off any one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>I also explained their rights to enter public land, and said I would see any present who wanted to enter such land, and do what I could to help them.  Quite a number came to me after the meeting for further explanation.  I also said that on two of the reservations there would be more land than the Indians living on them would need, and they must be prepared to give up the idea of living where they had always lived, and take land where they could get it, if the case now in court should be decided adversely to the Indians.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I also said that while we were trying to fight their battles for them, they were protecting and supporting the most destructive enemies they had.  That the Government had sent out a man to discover and punish the men who were debauching their women and robbing them of everything they had by means of whiskey and gambling, and, instead of helping him fight their enemies, they were concealing and protecting them.  That I could not do much for them with my friends in the East, if they should be told that these Indians were a miserable, whiskey-drinking, debauched people.  We could not lead men to victory who fell out by the wayside drunk, or who took to the bushes to gamble: that Col. Wallace was here to help them drive out their enemies, and I wanted them to help him do it.  The Colonel then explained what he had come to do, and what steps must be taken by them, and would see any who would undertake to furnish proof against liquor sellers.  A number came to the Colonel, and said they would do all they could, now that they knew how to stop this traffic.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Don Antonio Coronel, who is recognized by the Indians as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The day was a very laborious one, and I believe valuable in every way.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It is said that Bishop Mora has sold his ranch at Pauma to a Boston syndicate.  He either owned or did not own the lands on which the Indians lived; if he did not, of course he could not sell it; if he did, then he can scarce pose as the special friend of these poor people, if he did not except from the sale their homes.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Mrs. Coronel was told by an Indian woman that the Indians whipped him out of their church at Pala not long since.</P>
052.sgm:<P>At Rincon, La Peche, and La Jolla the situation is unchanged.  The school at La Peche, taught by a lady from Georgia, does not amount to much.  The house is full, but the teaching poor.  The house itself is a disgrace to any grade of civilization.  It is a new house, built by Agent Ward, two years since.  It would be as easy, almost, to warm the country about it as the inside of it.  The water question gives great anxiety to the Indians here and at La Jolla.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Mrs. Colonel Coutts has, as yet, taken no steps, I believe, to make good her claim to 8,848 acres of La Jolla, based upon a grant made in 1845 to Jose and Pablo Apis, and purchased from them by Col. Cave Coutts.  This claim was not presented to the Land Commission appointed March 3d, 1851, to investigate titles under old Mexican grants.  It is reasonable to suppose that if she thought it good she would urge it; but it lies back of the order creating this reservation in 1875 and 1877, and may yet be brought forward and give trouble.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The school at Rincon is taught by Miss Alexander, of Atlanta, Georgia.  We reached there at 3 P. M., but the school was already dismissed, and I had no chance to judge of her work.  She appeared to be a pleasant, sensible sort of a woman.  She and the other teacher, the one at La Peche, board together at the old Andrew Scott house, under the hill on the road from La Peche to Rincon, and have bought the place, as if it was their expectation to hold their positions permanently.</P>
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052.sgm:<P>Feles Calac, the first Indian in California who has been allowed to purchase State land as a citizen, whose right to do so was recently affirmed by the Superior Court, was complained of to me by some of the Indians, as having a piece of land under cultivation on the reservation, while he was living on his own land off the reserve.  I found it was a piece he had himself cleared up, and on which he made his money with which he purchased the school land, on which he lives, and that he wants to have some of his own family have it when the lands are allotted.  I said to the complainants that if he had stayed among them, and spent his money for whiskey, they would not complain of his holding it, and I did not think it just to punish him for saving his money and going ahead--that when the reservation land should be allotted, the Commissioner would settle the question, but he ought to have his field which he had cleared, and give the use of it to some one of his own family, rather than to some one of them who had no claim to it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>There is another Indian who had built a house on the school land which Calac has bought, and made improvements on it before he bought it.  I asked Calac what he intended to do with his claim for improvements, and for him.  He said he would pay him for his improvements, and that he was still living on it, and he charged him no rent.  I advised him to pay him, and also to charge him a small rent, so as to raise no question in the future as to ownership.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Indians said Calac bought the land as their captain, and the land ought to be theirs as a tribe; but, instead of that, he had left them, become a citizen and taken the land as his own.  They admitted that he had paid for it with his own money, and I explained that it was only as a citizen that he could purchase it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It was easy to see, from the experiences of a day, that I could spend the next ten years as Lord Chief Justice, settling petty cases.</P>
052.sgm:<P>At Pala an Indian had built a house and cultivated some fields on Government land.  Two years ago a Mexican named Pico, who has an Indian wife, begged the privilege of spending the winter in it, as he had no home.  It was granted.  The fellow is still in possession; he filed upon the land as unoccupied, but was defeated in his effort to prove upon it, by our counsel, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>I tried to get it settled by having the Indian file on it and save it to himself and then adjust the claims and rights of Marie and the other Indian, but they move so slowly it will require the presence for a long time of some one who will show them how to do it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>There are only 160 acres on the Pala Reserve; and only about 55 acres of this is fit for anything; this is less than two acres to each of the thirty Indians on it.  There are several little nooks of public land that can be filed upon, near, and in some cases, adjoining it.  It needs very greatly a man of sense and honesty to go in, hand-picking, to settle these people.</P>
052.sgm:<P>A large and fine reservation was set apart for them, but the whites got it restored to the public domain, and not only the Indians, but some whites who had settled on it, lost their homes.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The agent here has received notification that all the schools among this people, excepting four, not counting Father Ubach's boarding-school at San Diego, must be closed at the end of this year.  The four to be maintained are: San Jacinto, Coahuila, Rincon and La Peche or La Jolla (these are the same).  The reason assigned is the small attendance.  The order does not specify the schools by name, but if executed will close all whose average attendance has not been as high as twenty.  Only four have maintained that average.  All the schools have been depleted by the measles, and it would be an outrage to enforce the order, and doom to perpetual ignorance the children of those who have suffered so many wrongs at our hands.  If, perchance, there were only 19 children who could be kept in school in one of these isolated villages, it would be advisable, even under an economical administration of Indian affairs, to give those a chance to fit themselves for citizenship, and, imitating Abraham the father of the faithful, in his plea for Sodom, we might urge the school even for "ten's sake."</P>
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052.sgm:<P>CAPTAIN GRANDE. I went also to the Capitan Grande Reservation, which the President ordered to have cleared of intruders the middle of last winter, which order had been suspended and repeated once or twice.  The order was renewed in the spring, and the military were to remove them if they did not go.  The agent told me that the order had been carried out and the intruders were gone.  I went there to see about it.  I found that one man, who had taken possession of an Indian's house some years ago, and had been running a liquor saloon in it, had taken his liquors out and moved about a quarter of a mile, while he still retained possession of the Indian's land and had men in charge there.  This was the only change that had been made.  I also found that a San Diego water company was building a flume across the reservation almost its entire length--a fact never reported to the Government by the Agent--and was posting claims to the water, very much to the disturbance of the Indians.  I found five liquor saloons in full blast on the reservation.  On coming out I met a representative of the Department of Justice, who had been sent out to make some inquiries into the liquor traffic, at Los Angeles, to whom I made known the situation.  The United States Marshal and troops sent in by General Miles, under charge of John T. Wallace, the special inspector above mentioned, went in and brought out seven men, destroyed their beers and ales, and captured a wagon load of whiskies and wines, and when I came away the seven men were in jail at Los Angeles awaiting their trial.  I should add that Mr. Wallace did not deem it prudent to say anything to the district attorney who had been appointed in that district, although it belonged to him, as a part of his duty, to arrest these men.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Department, since my report of the doings of this water company, has, through its new agent, made a contract with the company, by which it agrees to furnish these Indians with all the water needed by them for irrigation and domestic purposes, and to pay $100 per mile for the right of way through the reservation.  I think the latter is more than justice to the Indian.  We could not ask for land damages when they are amply supplied with water.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It is a commentary on the way the good intentions of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>In the whole management of Indian affairs there is a very great distance between the responsible head and the executing hand; there are many chances that good intentions shall go astray before they can be put in operation; that beneficent orders shall get lost in the pigeon holes of careless clerks, or shall get hung up and lost before they are executed.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It is much pleasanter for Special Inspectors to stop at comfortable hotels in the neighboring cities, than to endure the discomforts of long rides to the reservation, and reports can more easily be written while waiting there, than while hunting for truthful facts of which to make them.  Unless they are belied by men who profess to know about it, few of the inspectors who have reported on this reservation ever went nearer to it than did the man who set it apart for the Indians, and have uniformly, almost, taken their information from the very men who are crowding and robbing them.  The President cannot, of course, come out here to see what orders should be issued, or that they have been executed, but, seeing he must trust men to deal honestly by him, it becomes imperative that he shall know that the men he must trust are worthy of his confidence.</P>
052.sgm:<P>This reservation lies almost 35 miles east from San Diego, and, as originally set apart, contained none of the homes of the Indians for whose benefit it was set apart.  The lines were so run that these were left out, and only inaccessible mountain elevations were included in it.  The whites at once began to file upon the homes of the Indians.  Pres. Grant, by a subsequent order, included these homes, and ordered the filings made to be cancelled and the whites removed.  The latter was never done, and the Indians have been forced up into the foot hills or have gone away entirely.  If the order of Pres. Cleveland, which so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>SAN JACINTO. At San Jacinto are found the Saboba Indians, whose battle we are fighting in the court and for whom we have won a victory at last.</P>
052.sgm:<P>This valley lies under the grand old mountains whose name it bears, and is now attracting much attention.  There is a scheme to build an immense reservoir in the mountains, sufficient to store water for the irrigation of what lands cannot be reached by ditches from the river.  "The bloom is on the boom" just now, and expectations are extravagant as to the future.  It is, much of it, laid out in town lots, and real estate men, in connection with the hotels at the two rival villages, are running free coaches from Perris, and were ready to give the new comer free rides all over the valley.  I found a strong sentiment, strongly expressed by some, in favor of the rights of these Indians as against Byrnes.  It must be remembered that here, as at San Ysabel, there are Indians on an old grant, on which they claim a right to homes, also a reservation set apart for them by the Government.  I found those who live on the grant, on fine land, with abundant water.  Their crops were good, and notwithstanding the dark cloud which has so long hung over them, and which they were expecting, when I was there, would burst and sweep them away, they have maintained themselves and kept up their farms.  They have a good school house--the best I saw at any of the villages--which the Captain and Mrs. Fowler ( <HI REND="italics">ne&acute;e</HI>
052.sgm: Miss Sheriff), the former teacher, built for themselves after the Agent, McCullom, refused to ask the Department to build it.  Mrs. F., who had always taught the school, and had the confidence of the Indians to an unusual, I may say, unlimited extent, was removed by Agent Ward, and Miss Noble, a Catholic girl, put in her place, on the pretext that it is the policy of the Department to employ only single ladies.  I saw a letter from Commissioner Atkins to Ward (a copy of it was sent to Mrs. F., which I saw), in which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>I also visited the Indians living on the reservation.  There are some six or seven families of these up in the can&tilde;ons, embracing some 200 acres of the only available land of the 3,100 acres contained in the San Jacinto Reservation.  A woman and her son have attempted to homestead 160 acres each in one of these.  The old grandfather, who recently died, at the age, it is said, of 135, had long lived on this land, and there is an old vineyard fifty years or more old.  It would hardly be just for these two families to take all the good land there is in this can&tilde;on, as there are not 320 acres of good land in it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>It is a practical suggestion which I make, and is indorsed by Miss Hiles, that we employ a man to do the work an Agent ought to do, but which no Agent employed by the Government will ever do, and have him hunt up the Indians and such land as can yet be found for quite a number of homes, and enter the lands for the Indians.  As it is, the Indians, through ignorance, and because of the hostile attitude of men who want all the land there is, and through the indifference, if not worse, of the officers in charge of public lands, these poor people will utterly fail to improve such chances to secure small but sufficient homesteads as are still open to them.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I had a little experience which justifies and emphasizes what I say on this point.  I went to the land office to see whether the filing of certain men on lands occupied by Indians had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>It is very evident that the Indians will find no protection from him unless some one shall be present to challenge those who attempt to oust them.  If this is done, a friend of the Indian, outside the land officials, must be on hand to do it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>A SUPERINTENDENT OF SCHOOLS FOR MISSION INDIANS. I met at San Diego the Superintendent of Schools for these Indians, Professor Janus, of Washington, who had come to inspect schools just when they had all closed for the season.  He was an old and feeble man, who has since died, utterly unfit, physically, for the hardships of his position.  The schools are widely scattered and many of them difficult of access, and the old man could not, or ought not, feeble as he was, endure the necessary travel to look after them.  One could not but believe that the position had been given him as a <HI REND="italics">sinecure</HI>
052.sgm:<P>As these Indians are mostly Catholics, it seemed more appropriate that the Superintendent should belong to that Church, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The complaint has been made, and grows stronger, and will eventually become outspoken, that this Church is securing an undue amount of patronage from the Government in the matter of schools, and is gradually getting control of the educational work among Indians.  I have compiled the following figures from the last Report of the Superintendent of Indian Schools, which seem to confirm the asserted fact, so far as contract schools are concerned.  Further investigations are needed to establish or disprove the suspicion that the same discrimination in favor of this Church is shown in the purely Government Boarding and Day Schools.</P>
052.sgm:<P>There are fifty-two Contract Boarding Schools for Indians, with the following denominations or churches:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>There are other contract boarding schools than those given in this list, as at Hampton and Philadelphia, which are not denominational schools.</P>
052.sgm:<P>There are twenty-one Contract Day Schools in all:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>There are reported seventeen Mission Schools supported by Churches without Government aid:--</P>
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052.sgm:<P>AGENT WARD'S RESIGNATION AND REPORT. It seemed unfortunate that one acquainted with the situation, as an Agent who has held the office for two years ought to be, should be forced to resign, as Mr. Ward asserts he was, out of respect for himself, just at the present crisis of affairs among these people,and a man new to the country and ignorant of Indians should come in to take charge.  A full history of this case, and of the causes leading to this issue, would not give one an exalted idea of the management of the Bureau.  On the other hand, one who makes himself acquainted with the facts on these various reservations, will not shed many tears over the change, if the new man shall deal less with rhetorical flourishes in reports and correspondence, and more with the actual condition and needs of his Indians.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Mr. Ward evidently intended to go out in a blaze of glory, in the estimation of the people of California among whom he lives.  To do this he took the unusual method of giving to the public press of Los Angeles his last report to the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, in which he seeks to ingratiate himself with his public by belittling the Indians, making contemptuous flings at every one else, and showing how easily the whole problem would be solved if his practical common sense could only be utilized.  He says:   "This has been a year of expectancy on the part of the Indians.  Government officials and outside enthusiasts have bespangled the Indians' sky with cabalistic signs of the coming jubilee, and the consummation of the `Land in Severalty Bill' has been promised as the keynote in the grand chorus of emancipation from the thraldom of the white man."</P>
052.sgm:<P>He says of the nearly 200,000 acres of land on their 19 reservations, there are not more than 500 acres on which white men would undertake to live, unless they could be irrigated.  But adds, further on, that no Indian who wished to cultivate land has been prevented from doing so for lack of land.  This would give one-quarter of an acre of land to each Indian.</P>
052.sgm:<P>He says, again: "The annuities of money, clothing and agricultural supplies furnished by the Government to the Indians have smothered out nearly every particle of native self reliance among them."</P>
052.sgm:<P>"They are content to lie in the shade and wait for the annual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>He tells me that the amount appropriated for these Indians amounted to some $400 for the whole 2000.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I heard of one man at one place who had received a hoe.  At Mesa Grande they had accumulated one plow, I think, and three hoes.  I saw at Capitan Grande a large six-horse Nashville wagon which had been issued to Ignacio for his people, which after a protracted effort, by the combined labors of all the Indians and ponies, they had succeeded in getting to the reservation, but which they could put to no use whatever.  Ignacio had hired it out to the San Diego Water Co., which was building a flume across that reservation, thinking he could get something out of the noble but demoralizing gift, but this was forbidden by the Agent as soon as he heard of it.  In the meantime, the man who had driven Ignacio from his home, and was keeping a liquor saloon in his house, whom the Agent had been instructed to put off the reservation, was still in possession.</P>
052.sgm:<P>He says again:  "There are, on the Banning Reservation, thirty or forty trespassers, who have established good homes, with vineyards and orchards.  These homes will have to be given up by the white man. The Indian now sits in the shade of the trees, meditating on which particular well-improved home he is to get."</P>
052.sgm:<P>In passing over this reservation with Agent Ward, he pointed out to me where the Indians had attempted to plow for crops, but the white men ran their furrows clear around and enclosed the patches the Indians were breaking up, and then drove the Indians off and would not suffer them to plant.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Knowing well the wonderful attachment of these people for their homes, also the feuds which exist among them, and the hostility of some bands for others, he proposes, as a cure-all for the difficulties of the situation, that they be gathered on two reservations, and forced to farm and put their children in school.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The new Agent, Mr. J. W. Preston, had not arrived when I left, but has taken hold of his work strongly since his arrival, if judgment can be based upon the very business-like and manly reports he has made as to his action in ejecting the squatters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>Immediate action should be taken to settle the Indians on these lands, and then to allot them in severalty, and secure them by patent.  Not until this is done can their rights be protected.</P>
052.sgm:<P>THE SAN FERNANDO CASE. As I was clossing up my work, and was about to return to the East, a telegram came from Mr. J. W. Davis, of Boston, of the Mohonk Committee on Legal Defence of Mission Indians, asking me to await a letter which required attention.  This, when it came, proved to be a complaint from Hon. R. M. Widney, of Los Angeles, that the Mohonk Legal Defence Committee had done Hon. Charles Maclay and himself a grievous wrong in a statement made in a circular letter issued by them, in an appeal to the public for funds.  The circular, in order to show the need of these funds for the defence of the Mission Indians, gave a brief account of the facts, as understood by the Committee in the case of the Indians ejected from the San Fernando Mission, as follows:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>THE SAN FERNANDO INDIANS. "A few years since, Mr. E. F. DeCeles, of Los Angeles, sold to two prominent citizens of California the San Fernando grant, inherited by him from his father, to whom it was granted by the Mexican Government, which grant contained a clause excepting the land occupied by the Indians."</P>
052.sgm:<P>"An old Indian named Rogerio occupied ten acres, the bounds of which were clearly defined, and upon which he has for a number of years paid taxes."</P>
052.sgm:<P>"When the deed was made out, the clause in the old grant excepting this land of the Indian was not incorporated in it.  Mr. DeCeles refused to sign it unless that clause was inserted, until assured by his attorney that it was not necessary for the protection of the Indian, inasmuch as the land was not his, and he could convey by deed only what he owned."</P>
052.sgm:<P>"This, with the assurance of the purchasers that the Indians would never be disturbed, induced him to sign the deed without the excepting clause.  Notwithstanding this assurance, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>"The manner of ejectment was as cruel as the fact was outrageous.  Rogerio was over eighty years old, and his wife and another woman, nearly of equal age, with five or six other persons, constituted his household.  The sheriff removed them by force in the midst of the winter, tumbled the two aged women, with all their effects, including Rogerio's blacksmith tools, fuel, chickens, etc., into a wagon, and dropped them by the roadside, where they lay without the slightest protection, and without food, excepting parched corn, for eight days, when the rainy season was at its worst, while the old man went to Los Angeles to get permission from the priest to occupy an old dilapidated shed connected with the old mission church."</P>
052.sgm:<P>"His tools, fuel, baskets and other possessions were pilfered; and it being thought by many that the old man must have money burried under his house, as he had for many years done the blacksmith work for that part of the country, diligent search was made for that.  The old wife died of pneumonia, brought on by the exposure, and the old man is a homeless wanderer."</P>
052.sgm:<P>"A fine spring of water on this land was one main object of this dispossession, and it may interest some to know that these plaintiffs purpose <HI REND="italics">erecting a Theological Seminary</HI>
052.sgm:<P>There were a few circulars printed which gave the names of these prominent citizens of California, Judge R. M. Widney and Hon. Charles Maclay, but the Committee had no controversy with these men, and no purpose to subserve by putting them in the pillory of the public press, though as a matter of fact they had been thus pilloried in the press of their own city by Mr. E. F. DeCeles, and they at once suppressed the circular containing their names and substituted for it one which did not give them.  A few, however, contrary to their wish, escaped destruction, and some one sent a copy to these gentlemen.</P>
052.sgm:<P>This called forth the letter and affidavit inclosed with it, which Mr. Davis sent me, with the request that I diligently inquire as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>It is due to them that their denial and the correction of misstatements, so far as there were such, should be made even more widely than the misstatements were circulated, and as I was responsible for the statement as originally made, and was called upon to investigate the facts anew, and the doing of this occupied my time for the last two weeks of my stay in California, and, because it is due to these gentlemen that their denials and corrections shall be given, and also due to myself that the facts of statement as corrected shall be given, but more than all, that the friends of the Indians shall understand how great the difficulties in the way of learning the facts of any given case, and the methods by which even reputable men get the advantage of the Indian, and would mislead the public with reference to the facts, I give the case as now made out.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The letter and affidavit are as follows:--</P>
052.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LOS ANGELES, CAL., June 30th, 1887.</HEAD>
052.sgm:<P>HON. JOSHUA W. DAVIS:--</P>
052.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
052.sgm::--Recently some one sent to me a circular to which your name with others was attached, in which an attack was made on Ex-Senator Maclay and myself.  I have prepared the accompanying affidavit, showing how grossly you have been deceived.  I presume the falsehoods started from local parties here, and did not originate with you or with any responsible parties.  I am surprised, however, that any person of the standing which I presume you and others signing the circular have would try, convict, condemn, sentence and execute the sentence upon American citizens without any opportunity given for a hearing or a defence.  Any agent here investigating the matter should at least have called upon the accused and heard both sides of the case.  You will at once recognize that the proceeding has been ex parte and star chamber in its nature.  I can only account for it upon the supposition that your name was obtained without your knowing the contents of the circular.  A damage has been done us that never can be repaired.  The circulars can never be followed to each place where they have gone, and in the minds of many the false accusations can never receive any refutation.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>An early answer is desired to this communication.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Respectfully,</P>
052.sgm:<P>R. M. WIDNEY,</P>
052.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">For self and as Attorney for C. Maclay.</HI>
052.sgm:<P>STATE OF CALIFORNIA, LOS ANGELES COUNTY,<HSEP><HI REND="italics">ss</HI>
052.sgm:<P>Hon. Charles Maclay, being duly sworn, deposes and says he has read the accompanying circular.</P>
052.sgm:<P>That affiant is the person referred to in said circular.</P>
052.sgm:<P>That the statements in said circular reflecting on affiant and Judge Widney are grossly and maliciously false.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The statements are specifically false, as follows, to wit:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>E. F. DeCeles never sold any land to Hon. Charles Maclay and Judge Widney, or to either of them.  The land referred to as the "San Fernando Grant" was sold by order of the Probate Court of Los Angeles County, of date June 12, 1874.  At such sale it was sold to the highest and best bidder, without reserve.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Affiant, C. Maclay, was the highest and best bidder, in the sum of $117,500.</P>
052.sgm:<P>That said sale was duly confirmed by the Probate Court on the 10th day of August, 1874, and said E. F. DeCeles, as admintrator of the estate, was directed by the court to make the conveyance.  That as such administrator, and not otherwise, said E. F. DeCeles executed the deed conveying said lands to said C. Maclay.</P>
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052.sgm:<P>That during the next ten years the rancho title changed hands once or twice.</P>
052.sgm:<P>That Mr. DeCeles never refused to sign the deed, as stated in the circular; that, as administrator, he had no authority to refuse to obey the order of the Probate Court.</P>
052.sgm:<P>That nothing about the said Indians was said in the matter.  The statement of the circular that "with the assurance of Messrs. Maclay and Widney that the Indians would never be disturbed," ect., is too false to justify words in condemning it and its authors.  Maclay and Widney never had such a conversation, or ever heard of the matter until it appeared in said circular; and said Widney never bought any lands of DeCeles, and did not buy of Maclay until in 1885, over ten years after said sale by said estate of DeCeles.  Maclay and Widney never brought suit against said Indian Rogerio and family.  The suit against Rogerio was begun in 1878 by G. K. Porter and C. Maclay, and the judgment entered accoeding to the requirements of the law years before said Widney had purchased in the rancho.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The statement in the circular that "the manner of ejectment was as cruel as the fact was outrageous," etc., is most conwardly and most villanously false.  The facts are as follows:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Sheriff was instructed by Judge Widney to notify the Indians to remove, and, if compelled to remove them, to pay them all that their improvements were worth, and then, in addittion, to let them take off all the said improvements they might wish to take.  Also that if the Indians wanted to come to Los Angeles City, the Sheriff should rent a suitable dwelling at Maclay's expense, and at Maclay's expense move the Indians to it.  Or, if they wanted to remain at San Fernando, to rent a house there and move the Indians into it.  Further, that if the Indians needed provisions the Sheriff should buy all they needed and furnish it to them at Maclay's cost, and also to give them some money for other expenses, if they needed it.</P>
052.sgm:<P>That the Indians, acting under bad advice of certain persons, refused all of these offers, and compelled the Sheriff to unload them and their effects at the place where he did, the Indians designating the place, as affiant is informed.</P>
052.sgm:<P>That the Indians lay by the road sick "eight days without food, except parched corn," is wholly false, as the Indian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The statement that the Indian's tools, fuel, etc., were pilfered, is a libel on the sheriff and his deputies, as being thieves, and in the opinion of affiant is false.</P>
052.sgm:<P>That diligent search was made in "hopes of finding money" buried, is as false as the rest of the circular.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The statement in the circular that these plaintiffs propose "erecting a Theological Seminary on this property," is also grossly false, as the College, which is partly erected, is over a mile distant from said land.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The United States patent for said rancho, under which Maclay bought, in no wise reserves any lands for Indians, and is a grant in fee simple to the DeCeles estate, and was issued January 3, 1873, over a year before Maclay purchased.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Affiant calls attention to the fact that the first of said circulars issued contained the words "sold to the Hon. Chas. Maclay and Judge Widney," etc., while the second set of circulars changed the words to "sold to two prominent citizens of California," etc.</P>
052.sgm:<P>At the time of the eviction outside parties tried to make money out of the matter, offering for $10,000 to remove the Indians; such persons affiant believes to be the author of said false statements in said circulars.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Affiant states that his own good name and reputation is as sacred as that of any of the parties signing said circular, and so far as they continue to spread said circulars and said reports, and do not recall said statements, affiant charges them with a degree of baseness unworthy respectable citizens of this Republic.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Copies of these affidavits will be forwarded to each of said committee signing said circular, to the Department of the Interior, for the use of the Department and of Congressional Committee.</P>
052.sgm:<P>CHAS. MACLAY. Subscribed and sworn to before me, this 29th day of June, 1887. T. S. SMITH, <HI REND="italics">Justice of the Peace of San Fernando</HI>
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052.sgm:<P>R. M. Widney, being duly sworn, says that he is the person referred to in said circular as Judge Widney.  That the foregoing affidavit of C. Maclay correctly sets out the facts on the points relating to R. M. Widney.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Subscribed and sworn to before me, this 30th day of June, 1887.</P>
052.sgm:<P>R. M. WIDNEY.</P>
052.sgm:<P>GEO. J. CLARKE, <HI REND="italics">Notary Public</HI>
052.sgm:<P>One of the first facts discovered as bearing upoin the case was found as follows (Cal. Reports, vol. 53, pages 372, 373):--</P>
052.sgm:<P>In an action brought by Eulogio DeCeles, as administratrix of her deceased husband, against A. Brunson, for breach of trust, as attorney of her predecessor, E. F. DeCeles, in the sale of certain property belonging to the estate, the plaintiff read in evidence the deposition of the defendant given in an action brought by one Alvorado against Eulogio for commissions claimed for selling the interest of the estate in the Rancho San Fernonde.  The deposition contained the following passages:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>"He (Maclay) asked me if I was not attorney for the defendant (Eulogio).  I told him I was.  Next he stated that he was acting for himself and others, and desired to purchase the ranch, and they would make it an object to me to effect a sale.  He said he was authorized to pay $125,000 for the Ranch, or DeCeles' interest in it, and that he would pay me one-half of all that I could get the ranch less that that sum.  I immediately went to the office and met Mr. DeCeles.  I told Mr. DeCeles that I could get $115,000 for their interest in the ranch.  He replied that he had made up his mind to sell for $120,000.  We talked the matter over for a short time, as to what would be for the best interests of the estate, and he then concluded, and so informed me, that he would sell the interest of the estate for $117,500.</P>
052.sgm:<P>"I received from Maclay $3750 for my services in the matter.  The defendant also agreed to pay me $2500, of which I have already received $1750."</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Court found no fraud on the part of the defendant (Brunson).  Judgment given for defendant, and plaintiff appealed.</P>
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052.sgm:<P>The Supreme Court held that Brunson held such relations to Eulogio F. DeCeles as prohibited his receiving $3750 from Maclay.  Judgment and order reversed, and cause remanded for new trial.</P>
052.sgm:<P>(Copy).</P>
052.sgm:<P>This establishes the fact that Mr. Maclay bribed the attorney for DeCeles in the sale of this very property to betray the interest of his client, and paid him $3750 for effecting a sale of his client's property for $7500 less than he said he was willing to pay for it.  And yet this sale, Mr. Maclay swears, was at public auction, to "the highest and best bidder," under an order from the court, in such manner as to give no option to Mr. DeCeles to accept or refuse his bid, or to sign the deed of transfer.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Next follows the affidavit of Mr. DeCeles, and it may be said that he has given the facts of this case over his own name in the public press of Los Angeles.  It will be remembered that Mr. Maclay swears he never heard of the Indians' right to a home on the ranch not being protected by the deed given, nor of a promise that the Indians should not be disturbed, until he saw it in the circular complained of.</P>
052.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES, CAL., August 31, 1887. I, the undersigned, E. F. DeCeles, was the administrator of the estate of my father, E. DeCeles.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Rancho Ex-Mission of San Fernando (or rather one-half of it) was part of my father's estate.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Ex-Senator Maclay came to see me about purchasing the San Fernando Rancho, which I wished to sell in order to pay off some debts of the estate.  The Probate Court had granted power to sell at either public or private sale, subject to its approval; the latter was preferred.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Pending negotiations as to terms, price, etc., Mr. Maclay, by the aid of Governor Stanford, assumed or otherwise settled the amount of a mortgage which had been foreclosed on the property.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The price was finally agreed upon at $80,000 cash and $37,500 in a mortgage on the property, the purchasers being C. Maclay and Geo. K. Porter.</P>
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052.sgm:<P>When the papers were already made out, I objected to them because they did not contain the clause in my father's deed by which the old Indians were to be kept in possession of the lands they occupied for the length of their lives.</P>
052.sgm:<P>In an interview at the office of Gen. M. G. Cobb, Nevada Block, San Francisco, my attorney, the matter was discussed.  Hon. Anson Brunson, also attorney for the estate, and Gen. Cobb both represented to me that the insertion of the clause was not necessary, as the purchasers under my father's deed would be bound by any and all conditions imposed upon him.</P>
052.sgm:<P>In the course of the discussion Mr. Maclay asked how much land the Indians occupied.  I told him that Rogerio occupied about twenty, and those at the Escorpion (on the northwest side of the Rancho) about fifty.  He said then that it was a very small matter, and they never would be disturbed, even if no such clause existed.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The sale was finally made by me, as Administrator, to C. Maclay and George K. Porter, and the Probate Court duly confirmed it.  Mr. Widney at the time had nothing to do with me about the sale of the Rancho, nor has he at any time before or since, except as attorney for Maclay, when he asked me for some information about the line of partition with the San Fernando Farm Homestead Association.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I do not know that the Rancho has changed hands since I sold it, except to subdivide between C. Maclay, George K. Porter, and Ben. F. Porter, until this year, when each one of these parties has made a sale, the two former still retaining an interest in their respective portions.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Indian Rogerio came to me for protection at the time Maclay <HI REND="italics">et al</HI>
052.sgm: were trying to eject him.  After hearing his statement, I took him to Col. G. Wiley Wells, who investigated the state of affairs, and found that, unfortunately, Maclay <HI REND="italics">et al</HI>
052.sgm:<P>Under instructions of Col. G. Wiley Wells, I told Rogerio to proceed to his home, and when the officers should come, to offer no resistance, but <HI REND="italics">allow himself to be put out</HI>
052.sgm:.  Rogerio afterward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:reported to me that he had strictly obeyed instructions; that the Sheriff's officers had <HI REND="italics">taken him</HI>
052.sgm: from his house and packed him and his things into a wagon and dumped him and them on the county road.  Next day it rained; his wife took cold, and shortly died of pneumonia, at an old ruined house at the old mission buildings, property of the church, which they occupied by kindness of Rev. Bishop Mora.  I do not know anything being offered or given to them by Maclay <HI REND="italics">et al</HI>
052.sgm:<P>Subscribed and sworn to before me, this 1st day of September, 1887.<HSEP>E. F. DECELES.</P>
052.sgm:<P>T. E. ROMAN, [SEAL]<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Notary Public</HI>
052.sgm:<P>Unless Mr. Maclay failed to receive a letter from G. Wiley Wells, Esq., dated November 12th, 1875, he certainly had heard of this matter before the circular brought it to his attention; for in that letter Mr. Wells speaks of DeCeles' declaration to him (Wells), that the matter was fully discussed and understood at the time of the sale.  Mr. Wells uses this language in this letter:--</P>
052.sgm:<P>"When Mr. DeCeles called on me with this Indian, and informed us that in the grant from the Government to his father there was a provision made that these Indians were to be maintained in possession of the lands which they occupied during their lifetime, I asked him whether this clause had been continued in the deed between the administrator and those purchasing.  He informed me, that while it might not be in the deed, yet there was a distinct understanding and pledge between the parties purchasing and the parties selling.***Mr. DeCeles informs me that at the time the ranch was sold you and the other purchasers distinctly understood the matter.  If that is so, while it may not be a legal obligation, yet the matter rests with you as to whether they are to remain."</P>
052.sgm:<P>As to the liberal and kindly manner in which this writ was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>STATE OF CALIFORNIA, COUNTY OF LOS ANGELES.  <HI REND="italics">SS</HI>
052.sgm:. George E. Gard, being first duly sworn, deposes and says: That at the time Rogerio--and other Indians were ejected from that portion of the San Fernando Ranch owned by Charles Maclay and others, I was acting as and in the capacity of Sheriff of Los Angeles County.  The first time that the attempt was made to eject said Indians, I went in person to their place of residence to carry out the order of ejectment.  At that time I received instructions from R. M. Widney and Charles Maclay, the reputed owners of said lands, as follows, to wit: That if said Indians would leave said premises quietly and "peacefully," that upon said condition I was to inform them that they could move into some house they might find on the outskirts of the ranch or in the surrounding can&tilde;ons, and that I, upon their authority, could furnish said Indians, from the store of Maclay and Griswold, at San Fernando, a sack of flour and other provisions to a small amount, and five dollars in money.  Pending the attempt to peacefully eject the Indians, I received an order from the court countermanding the order of the ejectment.  Some time thereafter I was again ordered to eject said Indians, when I was again instructed by said R. M. Widney to offer them about the same inducements as before, to leave, coupled with the order, if they did not accept said proposals, to pull down their building and put them out in the road.  They were eventually ejected by my deputies, Martin Agiurre and W. A. Hammel.  I have seen and read the affidavit made by the Hon. Charles Maclay relative to the ejectment of the Indians above referred to, in which statement appears the following language: "The Sheriff was instructed by Judge Widney to notify the Indians to remove, and if compelled to remove them, <HI REND="italics">to pay them all that their</HI>
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052.sgm:<HI REND="italics"> improvements were worth, and then, in addition, to let them take off all the said improvements they might wish to take</HI>
052.sgm:, also that if the Indians wanted to come to Los Angeles City, the Sheriff should rent a house at Maclay's expense, and at Maclay's expense move the Indians into it; or, if they wanted to remain at San Fernando, to rent a house there and move the Indians into it.  Further, that if the Indians needed provisions, the Sheriff should buy all they needed and furnish it to them at Maclay's cost, and also to give them some money for other expenses, if they needed it."  <HI REND="italics">All of which I pronounce to be absolutely false, except so far as I hereinbefore stated</HI>
052.sgm:.<HSEP>GEO. E. GARD.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Subscribed and sworn to before me, this 17th day of September.</P>
052.sgm:<P>[SEAL]<HSEP>FRANCIS J. THOMAS, (Copy.)<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Notary Public</HI>
052.sgm:<P>The writ was finally served and executed by the two deputies whose affidavit is here given.  These men belong to a class from which you would not expect an undue amount of gush or sentiment, but they could not rehearse the facts after the lapse of many months without deep emotion, and a most earnest and manly denunciation of its cruelty.  Judge Widney has procured an affidavit from them denying what had never been charged--that they treated the Indians cruelly in their ejection of them, or that they had stolen and carried off their property.</P>
052.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES, CAL., July 30th, 1887.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The persons whose names are appended to this statement were the Deputy Sheriffs of Los Angeles County, who were charged with the duty of ejecting the Indians, Rogerio and others, from the part of the San Fernando Ranch claimed by Messrs. Maclay and Widney.  We found them occupying one main adobe building, two or three tule buildings, and two frame buildings--the lands which they occupied and cultivated were enclosed by fences, and amounted, we judge, to some 15 acres more or less.  It was our duty to execute the order of the court, and as there was no place provided for them to which we could remove them, we were forced to dump them with all their belongings by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>We had our instructions from the office, as in case of any other duty, but Mr. Widney asked us to hasten our work, and he would give us $5.00 extra if we should get them off that afternoon.</P>
052.sgm:<P>We had no instruction to hire at the expense of Maclay or Widney a house for them, either in Los Angeles or San Fernando.  We had no instruction to pay them for their improvements, we had no instruction to allow them to remove any of their fixed improvements, and we know that their wish to take down and remove a porch from one of their houses was refused.  We had no instructions to purchase anything for them, nor were we furnished with any money with which to do this, but were told by Maclay and Widney that the Indians could get needed provisions at their expense if they left peacefully; we were also told that if they wished to come into Los Angeles they could do so.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Though forced to do this disagreeable duty, we regarded it as a hard and cruel thing to take those old people from their homes and throw them into the street, unprotected, in the midst of the winter season.<HSEP>WILL A. HAMMEL, M. AGIURRE, <HI REND="italics">Ex-Deputy Sheriffs.</HI>
052.sgm:<P>Subscribed and sworn to before me, this 30th day of July, 1887.</P>
052.sgm:<P>B. E. TANEY, (Copy).<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Justice of the Peace.</HI>
052.sgm:<P>I give also the affidavit of a Mexican gentleman living at San Fernando, who witnessed the ejectment and knows all the facts;--</P>
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052.sgm:<P>STATE OF CALIFORNIA, COUNTY OF LOS ANGELES.  <HI REND="italics">ss</HI>
052.sgm:<P>SAN FERNANDO, Sept. 9th, 1887.</P>
052.sgm:<P>I, the undersigned, Romulo Pico, was present when the Sheriff's Deputies came to eject the Indian Rogerio and his family, and know it to be a fact that neither ex-Senator Maclay nor any one offered money or provisions to said Rogerio nor a house to move into; they were simply taken to the county road and left there.<HSEP>ROMULO PICO.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Subscribed and sworn to before me, this 12th day of September, 1887, A. D.</P>
052.sgm:<P>GEO. BUTLER GRIFFIN, [SEAL].<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Notary Public</HI>
052.sgm:<P>And lastly, the affidavit of the old man, Rogerio, himself:-- STATE OF CALIFORNIA, CITY OF LOS ANGELES.  <HI REND="italics">ss.</HI>
052.sgm:<P>I, Rogerio Roch, native of the mission of San Fernando, Indian of the said mission, of the age of seventy-six years, more or less, by trade a blacksmith.  With respect to the way in which they despoiled the land where I had lived all my life and my antecedents from time immemorial.  Senor Don Andres Rico and Don Elugio DeCelis, owners of the said mission in the year 1871, advised me to have the land I considered mine measured by a surveyor, which I did; the map I still have in my possession, and it is registered in the archives of the city, and I have paid all the respective taxes.</P>
052.sgm:<P>In the year 1885 Charles Maclay, by the interpretor Romulo Pico, told me that the ground which I occupied in the mission of San Fernando was his, that he had bought it from DeCelis, and for that reason I must leave the place.  I answered that "I would not leave, as it was my property, and that DeCelis told me it was not true, for how could he sell what was not his."  A short time after came a sheriff and Maclay, and, as far as I could understand, wanted me to sign a paper.  I answered, "I sign nothing."  On the first of November of the said year two deputy sheriffs, one a Spaniard named Martin Agiurre, notified me that they had orders to deprive me of the place, and I answered them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>The women were rendered helpless; my wife fell ill, and died in consequence of this.  When the rain ceased, I moved to the mission with the little I had left, which was nothing.</P>
052.sgm:<P>My property on the land consisted of two adobe houses (made of sun-baked bricks), two of wood, about forty chickens, a black-smith's forge, with all my iron and utensils by which means I supported myself; everything disappeared and the most cherished of my life, my dear companion.  Now, incapable of hard work, I am the charity of persons who assign me a corner where to pass the night.  All that they say that they offered me--means, house, money to pay and to better me--is absolutely false.  There are several persons who know about the negotiation.</P>
052.sgm:<P>ROGERIO F. ROCH (mark X). [Copy.]</P>
052.sgm:<P>It is due Judge Widney to say that he was not associated with Messrs. Maclay and Porter in the original purchase of the ranch, and so far as the circular conveys that impression it was incorrect.  He was associated with Maclay as his attorney at an early <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>That the valuable spring of water on this land, the thing for which the fight was really made, did give value to the land out of which the money given for this school was realized, and really constitutes the foundation of this school, so far as these gentlemen have laid that foundation, this is not denied, and perhaps will not be.</P>
052.sgm:<P>These corrections are made in deference to these gentlemen, who say that their good name is dear to them, and should be made as widely as the original "infamously false" statements were circulated, and this I hope to do in the report herewith made.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Bishop Fowler was also much grieved because of the attack which the <HI REND="italics">Christian Union</HI>
052.sgm:, in printing this circular, had made upon his church.  He thought that if I had known from what those Indians were taken, and to what, I would not have made complaint of hardship or cruelty.  In answer to my questions, he said they had no enclosed land from which they were removed; no fields, and their houses were nothing but brushes thrown up on some poles.  These were pointed out to him by Judge Widney.  I told him that what he saw was quite other than the sheriffs who ejected them described to me.  When I asked to what they had been taken, he could make no answer, and so I had to supply the answer from the sworn statement of the sheriffs, that it was to the county road.  He thought if I had lived "West," in contact with these people, I would not have the feeling for them which I had manifested; to which I could only say: "I still cling to an old-fashioned idea that the principles of our Declaration of Independence and of the Golden Rule and of the Sermon on the Mount have their application to all God's children, of whatever race, color or condition.  It throws some light on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>Now that the Supreme Court of California has reversed the decision of the lower court in the case of the Saboba Indians, and affirmed their right to a home on these grants under the Mexican laws and the treaty of Hidalgo Guadalupe, it is to be hoped that some remedy may be found for the wrongs inflicted upon these Fernando Indians; but if their case cannot be opened again in Court, at least, that these gentlemen, whose good names are very dear to them, and whose contributions to the cause of Christ and his kingdom have been so large, now that the Supreme Court of the State has decided the question, which they took advantage of a technicality to prevent coming to an issue in the court, and has affirmed the right of the Indians to the land and water and homes which they took from them, they will, in vindication of their good name, and as an illustration of the spirit of the gospel of Christ, come forward and restore what they have taken away under the forms of law, but in violation both of law, as now enunciated by the Supreme Court of the State, and of justice.  The dear companion of his life they cannot give back to Rogerio.  Over her dead body the desolate old man has repeated the burial service of his church in Latin, and hid her forever from sight, but the old man might be taken from the corner which charity assigns him for the passing night, and given a home ree&die;stablished on the site of the old one destroyed, thus, at last, making true their assertion, which has been so flatly contradicted, that they have made provision for his wants.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The promise made to Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson, that the cause of her Mission Indians should be taken up and carried forward, has been, partially at least, fulfilled.  The case of the Saboba Indians was restored to the calendar at my request, after it had been decided against them by default, the attorney not responding when it was called in court.  Counsel was appointed by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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052.sgm:<P>That the legal as well as essential outrage which has been perpetrated in the past may stand out in bold relief, I give in full this decision.  The culpable stupidity and ignorance of our National Legislature will also be seen when it made the following report of a Senate Committee, to which the question of the title of Mission Indians to these lands was referred, the basis of its action.</P>
052.sgm:<P>"The United States acquiring possession of the territory from Mexico, succeeded to its right in the soil; and since that Government regarded itself as the absolute and unqualified owner of it, and held that the Indian had no usufructuary or other rights therein, which were to be in any manner respected, they, the United States, were under no obligation to treat with the Indians occupying the same, for the extinguishment of their titles."</P>
052.sgm:<P>Guided, it would seem, by this report, which the judges of the Supreme Court now hold to be so utterly false as to the facts, we have regarded the presence of even civilized Indians on a piece of land as no more a bar to the settlement of whites on it than would the presence of a cow or wolf.</P>
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052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>It is also with the hope that the American people, seeing in the light of this decision the history of legalized wrong which has been enacted, will rise up in their might and in supreme indignation, and insist that a remedy shall be applied, not alone in cases now pending, but also in those which have passed into the dark and shameful history of the past, that the earnest attention of the reader is asked to this decision of the Supreme Court of California, with which I close this report, believing that through the persistent efforts of the Indian Rights Association in this case, we turn down the last page of the history of our shame, and are about to enter upon a brighter and more creditable chapter, in which is to be recorded our atonement for these wrongs.--</P>
052.sgm:<P>THE CASE OF BYRNES VS. ALAS, ET AL. IN BANC.  [Filed January 31st, 1888.] BYRNE <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. ALAS, <HI REND="italics">et al</HI>
052.sgm:<P>The complaint in this action is in the usual form in ejectment.  The defendants--over twenty in number--are Mission or Pueblo Indians, claiming the land by virtue of their possession and the continuous, open and exclusive use and occupancy by their predecessors and ancestors ever since the year 1815.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The plaintiff had judgment in the court below upon the following agreed statement of facts: "First.  That the premises here in controversy are included in the exterior boundaries of the Mexican grant of the San Jacinto ranche, made December 31st, 1842.  That said grant was duly confirmed by the United States courts, and that a United States patent issued therefor January 17th, 1880.  That at the time of the commencement of this action plaintiff held legal title to the premises in controversy as the legal successor of the patentee from the Government.  Second.  That the defendants here are Mission or Pueblo Indians; that their ancestors and predecessors have been in the continuous, open and notorious, peaceable and exclusive possession, occupancy and use of the premises in controversy, claiming adversely to all the world ever since, and for a long time prior <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>1.  The questions presented for our consideration upon these facts are difficult and important.  The civilized and Christianized Indians of the Californias, and, indeed, of all the Spanish colonies, seem to have been treated as the special and favorite wards of the Spanish sovereigns.  Their moral and spiritual welfare and improvement were regarded as matters of great interest to the country, and their personal security, peace, prosperity and rights of property were most jealously guarded through legislation and by those in authority.  In these respects the contrast between the policy of the Spanish and Mexican Governments toward their aborigines and that manifested in some of the English colonies during contemporaneous reigns is quite marked.  Early in the sixteenth century King Philip commanded that settlements on and appointments of the new Territories should be without damage to the Indians, and "that the farms and lands which shall be given to the Spaniards shall be without prejudice to the Indians, and that those which have been given to their prejudice and damage shall be returned to whom by law they may belong."  (2 White's "New Recopilacion," 51.)  It was made the special duty of local judges to visit the farms of the Indians, without previous request so to do, and ascertain whether the Indians had suffered any injury in person or in property; and if deemed best, after due notice, to remove them to some other place.  It was provided that "the Indians shall be left in possession of their lands hereditaments and pastures in such manner as that they shall not stand in need of the necessaries of life."  No compositions were admitted of lands which Spaniards had acquired from Indians illegally; and the protectors were commanded to procure all illegal contracts to be annulled.</P>
052.sgm:<P>"The broad field of Spanish jurisprudence bristled all over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>"As soon as the Indians became sufficiently pacified, the governors (adelantados), were to distribute them among the colonists, who were to take charge of them and watch over their welfare, as provided in Book 6 of the "Recopilacion de las Indias."</P>
052.sgm:<P>"Laws were provided for the founding of Indian pueblos, or towns.</P>
052.sgm:<P>"It is clear, from the whole tenor of the Spanish and Mexican laws, whether in the form of pueblos or ranchos, that the Indians are entitled to equity and in good conscience, and even according to the strict rigor of the laws, to all the lands they have, or have had, in actual possession for cultivation, pasture or habitation, when such domain can be ascertained to have had any tolerably well-defined boundaries.  Both Spain and Mexico have acknowledged this principle to be a just one."  (Hall's "Mexican Law," Secs. 38, 40, 151, 3, 4, 5, 9, 160, 161; also, 1 "White's New Recop.," 411; 2 <HI REND="italics">Id</HI>
052.sgm:<P>At first the Indians were permitted, in the presence of the judge, to sell their real and personal property at public auction, but in 1781 a decree was published prohibiting the Indians from selling their real estate without license from the proper authority.  This remained in force until the independence of Mexico, which made all inhabitants of the Mexican nation equal before the law.  The plan of Iguala, adopted in February, 1821 (when the relation between Mexico and Spain ceased and the sovereignty became vested in the Mexican nation), declared that "all the inhabitants of New Spain, Africans or Indians, are citizens of this monarchy, * * * and that the person and property of every citizen shall be respected and protected by the Government."  These principles were reaffirmed by the treaty of August 24th, 1821, between the Spanish Viceroy and the Revolutionary party; and the Declaration of Independence, issued on the 28th of September, 1821, reaffirmed the principles of said plan.</P>
052.sgm:<P>After the acquisition of California from Mexico, the United States was bound, under the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, to respect and protect all titles, both legal and equitable, acquired <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:previous to the cession; and it devolved upon Congress to prescribe methods and steps necessary to a just, speedy and effective determination of the rights of claimants.  Much perplexity existed as to how this was to be accomplished, owing to ignorance as to the condition of land titles here at that time.  In July, 1849, William Carey Jones was appointed a "confidential agent of the Government to proceed to Mexico and California for the purpose of procuring information as to the condition of land titles in California," to aid, no doubt, in securing intelligent legislation upon the subject.  His report was made in March, 1850, to the Secretary of the Interior, who laid the same before Congress.  After an extended consideration of this report in Congress, the Act of March 3d, 1851, entitled "An Act to ascertain and settle private land claims in the State of California" was passed.  In this report Mr. Jones thus speaks of the rights of the Indians: "I am also instructed to make an inquiry into the nature of Indian rights (to the soil) under the Spanish and Mexican Governments.  It is a principle constantly laid down in the Spanish and Colonial laws that the Indians shall have a <HI REND="italics">right</HI>
052.sgm: to such lands as they need for their habitations, for tillage and for pasturage. * * * Special directions were given for the selection of lands for the Indian villages in places suitable for agriculture, and having the necessary wood and water.  * * * Agreeably to the theory and spirit of these laws the Indians in California were always supposed to have a certain property or interest in the missions.  * * * We may say, therefore, that, however maladministration of the law may have destroyed its interest, the law itself has constantly asserted the rights of the Indians to habitations and sufficient fields for their support.  The law always intended the Indians of the missions--all of them who remained there--to have homes upon the mission grounds.  The same, I think, may be said of the large ranchos--most or all of which were formerly mission ranchos--and of the Indian settlements or rancherias upon them.  I understand the law to be, that whenever Indian settlements are established and the Indians till the ground, they have a right of occupancy in the land they need and use, and whenever a grant is made which includes such settlements the grant is subject to such occupancy.  This right of occupancy, however, at least when on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>It was held in Leese <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Clarke (3 Cal., 17) that every Mexican grant must be determined and its validity established by the fundamental law of the Mexican Congress, passed in 1824, the regulations of 1828, and the ordinances of the Departmental Legislature consistent therewith.  Under these laws and regulations the Territorial Governors were authorized to grant--with certain specified exceptions--vacant lands.  (Hall's "Mexican Laws," 504; Ferris <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:<P>If it be true that under the laws of Mexico only vacant lands could be granted, and that grants were to be without prejudice to Indians, it would seem that the lands in controversy, having been in the undisturbed possession of defendants and their ancestors ever since 1815, were not subject to grant so as to cut off the right of occupancy; and as it is expressly provided in the grant before us that "he (Estudillo) shall in no way disturb nor molest the Indians who are established or living thereon at the present time," the patentee and his grantee under the law and the terms of the grant, took the fee, subject, at least, to the right of occupancy by the Indians; and those rights are still preserved, unless the Indians forfeited them by failure to present their claims to the Board of Land Commissioners, appointed by the Act of March 3d, 1851.</P>
052.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>The nations of Europe, in whose behalf discoveries and settlements were made on this continent, established among themselves, by common consent, the principle that discovery gave title to the Government by whose subject or authority it was made.  The relations between the discovering nations and the natives were matters of regulation, but it became the universal rule that where the lands were in the actual possession of Indians, the ultimate fee (incumbered with the Indian right of occupancy) should be considered to be in the discovering sovereign and its successors, with the condition attached that the political power alone--the Legislative or Executive Department--might extinguish the Indian right of occupancy and leave the fee unincumbered to pass to the grantee or patentee of the Government.  (Clark <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Smith, 13 Peters, 195; Johnson <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Mackintosh, 8 Wheaton, 575.)  With the question of extinguishment the courts have nothing whatever to do except to inquire whether the right of occupancy has been extinguished by the Legislative or Executive Department.  Of course the dominant powers were not <HI REND="italics">required</HI>
052.sgm: to recognize any right in the natives to the soil which the former had acquired by conquest.  But while "claiming the right to acquire and dispose of the soil, the discoverers recognized the right of occupancy--a usufructuary right--in the natives.  They accordingly made grants of land occupied by Indians, and these grants were held to convey a title to the grantees, subject only to the Indian right of occupancy.  (Butts <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. N. P. R. R. Co., 7 Supreme Court, 100; Butcher <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:<P>Among all the sovereigns who established a foothold on this continent none manifested so great an interest in the Indians-- so great a solicitude for their welfare and happiness--as the Spaniards.  The Kings of Spain recognized in the Indian an inferior man committed by Divine Providence to their benevolent charge, and to be elevated by their kindness and instruction to the dignity and condition of a Christian.  (White's "New Recop.", 40-48.)  Pueblos or settlements were established for them.  They were given the right of possession within them.  Full provision for this was made prior to 1815, when the ancestors of these defendants took possession--and, of course, prior to the adoption of the plan of Iguala.  Not only is the law for the establishment of the pueblo older than the title of Mexico, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>It must be presumed that all these inquiries and conditions were made in accordance with the principles of existing law, and that the grant in pursuance thereof protected the possession of the Indians as against the proprietary ownership of the grantee.  There is nothing in the colonization laws of 1824 or the regulations of 1828 indicative of a purpose by Mexico to depart from the traditional policy of the Spanish Government.  This grant shows that the same old rights were recognized and adhered to--the right of Indians to occupy lands upon which they had been placed, and that the fee should be granted, if at all, subject to such right of occupancy.  The grant did not annul the rights of the Indians, or estop them from claiming the same; on the contrary, it by its terms expressly preserves those rights.  From the examination we have been able to give the Spanish and Mexican laws, we think that the statement of William Carey Jones, which we have quoted above, is fully sustained by the authorities.  If there has been any Act of the Legislative or Executive Department of either the Spanish or Mexican Government, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:laws of Spain or Mexico to complete their right of possession.  Neither was there any act or writing required on the part of the Government.  Their right was, therefore, complete.  (Leese <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Clark, 3 Cal., 24; Teschmaker <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Thompson, 18 <HI REND="italics">Id</HI>
052.sgm:., II; Boggs <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Merced Mining Co., 14 <HI REND="italics">Id</HI>
052.sgm:., 297; Waterman <HI REND="italics">vs </HI>
052.sgm:. Smith, 13 <HI REND="italics">Id</HI>
052.sgm:., 415; Beard <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:<P>Furthermore, Section 16 of the Act of March 3d, 1851, provides "that it shall be the duty of the Commissioners herein provided for to ascertain and report to the Secretary of the Interior the tenure by which the Mission lands are held; and those held by civilized Indians, and those who are engaged in agriculture or labor of any kind; also, those which are occupied and cultivated by pueblo or rancheros Indians."  This language indicates that Congress did not intend that the rights of the Indians should be cut off by a failure on their part to present their claims, but that it should be the duty of the Commissioners to ascertain and report the tenure by which they held their lands; and this is in harmony with the suggestions made in that behalf by Mr. Jones.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Inasmuch as the rights of the Indians were valid rights, existing at the date of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo--rights which came to them by virtue of the laws of Mexico and of Spain--the patent was conclusive only as between the United States and the grantee; and in view of the nature of their claim and the time when their rights attached, we think they are third persons within the meaning of Section 15 of the Act.  (Teschmaker <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Thompson, Beard <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Federy, <HI REND="italics">supra</HI>
052.sgm:; United States <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. White, 23 Howard United States, 253; Adams <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Norris, 103 U. S., 593; Miller <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Dale, 92 <HI REND="italics">Id</HI>
052.sgm:<P>The legal title secured to Estudillo and his grantees must be held by them charged with the right of occupancy by the defendants.  Where a claim was held subject to any trust before presentation to the Board, the trust was not discharged by a confirmation and subsequent patent.  The confirmation inured to the benefit of the confirmee only so far as the legal title was concerned.  The confirmation established the legal title in Estudillo, but did not determine the relation between him and third persons.  The trust was not stated, but the legal title was none the less subject to the same trust in the hands of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:claimant.  (Townsend <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:.  Greeley, 5 Wall., 335; Hart <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:<P>The defendants, under our system of pleadings and practice, are permitted to show in ejectment that the plaintiff holds the legal title, burdened with the Indian right of occupancy.  (Fulton <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:<P>Third.  Respondent relies upon the case of Thompson <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:.  Doaksum (68 Cal., 504.)  That case differs from the one at bar in several respects.  No claim whatever was ever presented to the Board of Land Commissioners for confirmation.  Section 13 of the Act of March 3d provided that "all lands the claims to which shall not have been presented to the Commissioners within two years after the date of the Act shall be deemed, held, and considered as part of the public domain of the United States."  The lands claimed by these defendants are within the boundaries of a Mexican grant confirmed by the Board of Land Commissioners to Estudillo, it is true; but, as we have seen, this confirmation relieved the defendants of the necessity of presenting their claims, and conclusively adjudicated the fact that the lands were private property, and no portion of the public domain.  The Indians interested in that case were not pueblo or rancheros Indians, and no duty of ascertaining their rights devolved upon the Land Commission.  The Indians therein mentioned were never wards of the Government.  Furthermore, there was, in that case, a pree&die;mption claim filed under the land laws of the United States, and the patent purported to convey both the legal and the equitable title against the Government and against all the world; and, of course, could not be attacked in a collateral proceeding.  The title to the lands in controversy was never in the United States.  The patent determined the rights of the Government and the patentee, but not the rights of third persons.  If there was anything in the nature of a trust before the claim was presented to the Board, that trust was not discharged by the action of the Land Commissioners, or the officers of the Land Department.  There is nothing to show that the Indians referred to in the case of Thompson <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Doaksum were civilized or Christianized.  Under the authorities quoted above, to be sure, they had the right of occupancy, but that right <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>Of course the possesion when abandoned by the Indians attaches itself to the fee without further grant; and this is true whether there be any record evidence in favor of the Indians or not.  Their right exists only so long as they actually occupy the land.  So long as the defendants and their ancestors were in possession of the lands in controversy there remained nothing to be done by them under the laws of Mexico in order to confirm their right, nor was there anything to be done by the Mexican Government, or the officers thereof.  The rights of the Indians had been completely established.  We think that upon the facts agreed to in this case, the defendants are entitled to judgment for their costs.</P>
052.sgm:<P>Judgment reversed and cause remanded, with directions to enter judgment in favor of defendants for their costs.</P>
052.sgm:<P>PATERSON, J.</P>
052.sgm:<P>We concur: MCFARLAND, J.,<LB>SEARLS, C. J.,<LB>SHARPSTEIN, J.,<LB>MCKINSTREY,<LB>J., TEMPLE, J.</P>
052.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX.</HEAD>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<LB>A very peculiar teacher, 19.<LB>A vicious plan re-adopted, 36, 37.<LB>A wedding on a bridge, 38.<LB>A wretched building, 41.<LB>A year of changes, 48.<LB>Baby stockings for grown-up people, 41.<LB>Bad policy, a, 33. state of things at Pawnee, 10.<LB>Baking by Indians, 30, 31.<LB>Band, Joseph's, 14.<LB>Bankrupt, both partners, 34.<LB>Baptism, and a small sermon, 38.<LB>Bathing facilities, poor, 18.<LB>Bath-rooms and hospitals needed, 8, 9.<LB>Battle for and against severalty, 46.<LB>Beef issue, a, 17.<LB>Beer and ale destroyed, 66.<LB>Belittling Indians, 72.<LB>Bishop's view, a, 89, 90.<LB>Black flour, bread of, 41.<LB>Bland's support of savagery, 40.<LB>Blow, a, in the face for the churches, 7.<LB>Blooded stallions needed, 36.<LB>Boarding-schools, contract, 71.<LB>Boom, a, with the bloom on, 68.<LB>Boston, a lady of, helps, 25.<LB>Both notoriously unfit, 10. partners bankrupt, 34.<LB>Bread of black flour, 41.<LB>Break-up, a, 40.<LB>Bribing an attorney, 81.<LB>Brick-making, 32.<LB>Bridge, a condemned, 34. a wedding on, 38.<LB>"Broth, too many cooks spoil," 33.<LB>Buggies and light carriages, 36.<LB>Building, a wretched, 41.<LB>Bullied, cajoled or defrauded, 14.<LB>Business, knowing nothing of, 44.<LB>Business-like and manly reports, 73, 74.<LB>Byrne <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Alas, <LB><HI REND="italics">et al</HI>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<LB>Comfortable hotels, inspectors at, 67 outfit, a, 15.<LB>Commands of king Philip, 93.<LB>Commission, a, what it often brings about, 13.<LB>Commissioner of Indian Affairs, the, 5, 57, 68. the, favors traders against Indians, 36.<LB>Commissioner's plan, the, 14, 15. power to wreck fortunes, 33, 34.<LB>Committee, Mohonk, on legal defence, 74.  Senate, on Indian traderships, 4. the senate, a member of, 17.<LB>Common sense, 21.<LB>Comparing statistics, 47.<LB>Comparison, a telling, 47.<LB>"Complain and lose your head," 21.<LB>Complaint from Hon. R. M. Widney, 74. of undue Catholic influence, 71.<LB>Condemned bridge, a, 34.<LB>Conference at Ponca, 8, 9. with Indians, 56. with Indians, at Pala, 61, 62.<LB>Confidential agent, Wm. Carey Jones, 95, 98.<LB>Confounding <LB><HI REND="italics">meum</HI>
052.sgm: and <LB><HI REND="italics">tuum</HI>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<LB>Homeless old Rogerio, 75.<LB>Homesick and hopeless, 10.<LB>Honest and sensible work, 19. men needed by the President, 67.<LB>Honor, partner in, and spoils, 89.<LB>Hope, a growing, 6 Prof. Painter's, 92.<LB>Horses, good, 36.<LB>Hospital and bath-rooms needed, 8, 9. none, 18.<LB>Hostile and obstructive favorites, 45.<LB>Hotels, comfortable, for Inspectors, 67.<LB>Hot spring, a, 55.<LB>House, a stolen, 66.<LB>Houses of grass, 43.<LB>How it turned out, 32. long will the churches submit?  7. much land, question of, 20.<LB>Hualapais had to flee in a body, 14.<LB>Hundreds of acres of wheat, 37, 38.<LB>"I don't beg," 26.<LB>Iguala, plan of, 94.<LB>Illustrative facts, 46.<LB>Important facts, 4. matters not reported, 67. work, 50.<LB>Improvements on fifty farms, 24.<LB>In Banc, Byrne <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Alas, <LB><HI REND="italics">et al</HI>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm: and <LB><HI REND="italics">luum</HI>
052.sgm:, confounding 42.<LB>Mexican Law, Hall's, 94.<LB>Mexico, old cows from, 37.<LB>Military robbery of Indian land, 44.<LB>Miserable shell, a school house, 42.<LB>Misinformed, the President, 66.<LB>Missionary, little opportunity for, 11. needed, 39.<LB>Mission Indians, 49. agent for, 50. and the President, 50.<LB>Mississippi and Tennessee cormorants, 46.<LB>Modoc war, the, 14.<LB>Mohonk committee, the, 74.<LB>Monument, a mournful, 33.<LB>Moral obligations greater, 13.<LB>More poetry than fact, 72. than three months' work, 3.<LB>Most soldiers respect Indians, 4.<LB>Mountain steeps for Indians, 58.<LB>Mr. Seger's Indians, 27.<LB>Much work required, 60.<LB>Music of the coffee-mill, 23.<LB>Must be done speedily, something, 15. take the worst Indians, 23.<LB>Nature as our ally, 38.<LB>Need of a missionary, 39. of honest men, 67. of immediate action, 74.<LB>Needed, hospitals and bath-rooms, 8, 9.<LB>New danger, 61. school needed, 10.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:. Norris, 100.<LB>Agiurre, Martin, 84, 85, 86.<LB>Alessandro, 53.<LB>Alexander, Miss, teacher, 63.<LB>Alvorado, 80.<LB>Apis, Jose&acute; and Pablo, 63.<LB>Atkins, Hon. J. D. C., 34, 42, 43, 68.<LB>Ayers, Mrs. and Miss, 55.<LB>Baker, 34.<LB>Barker, farmer, 10.<LB>Beard <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Federy, 100.<LB>Bergman, Mr., 51, 60.<LB>Bland, Dr., 40.<LB>Boggs <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Merced Mining Co., 100.<LB>Brunson, Hon. Anson, 80, 82.<LB>Butcher <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Witherly, 97.<LB>Butts <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. N. P. R. R. Co., 97.<LB>Byrne, 68. <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Alas, 92.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<LB>Calac, Feles, 64.<LB>Campbell, Mr., Clerk, 42.<LB>Clark, Ben, the interpreter, 15. <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Smith, 97.<LB>Clarke, Geo. J., notary public, 80.<LB>Cleveland, Mr., President U. S., 50.<LB>Cobb, Gen. M. G., 82.<LB>Collins, Miss, 41. Mrs., teacher, 18. R. P., Superintendent, 18.<LB>Coronel, Don Antonio, 61, 63. Mrs., 63.<LB>Coutts, Mrs. Col., 63.<LB>Crook, Gen., 49.<LB>Curly, 29.<LB>Davis, J. W., of Boston, 74. Miss, 39, 40.<LB>De Celes, Don Elugio, 87. E. F., 75, 82, 83. Eulogio, 80, 81.<LB>De Night, Miss, 10.<LB>Downey, Ex-Gov., 55.<LB>Dunn, J. P., Jr., 13.<LB>Dyer, Agent, 16.<LB>Estudillo, 96.<LB>Fager, Miss, 19.<LB>Fain, Jim, from Tennessee, 55.<LB>Fane, 54.<LB>Farrar, in <LB><HI REND="italics">Ramona</HI>
052.sgm:, 54.<LB>Ferris <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Coover, 96.<LB>Fowler, Bishop, 89. Mrs., teacher, 68.<LB>Fulton <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Hanlon, 101.<LB>Gard, George E., 84.<LB>Gee, Miss, 40.<LB>Golsh, Miss, teacher, 54, 55.<LB>Grant, President, 67.<LB>Graves, Dr., 42.<LB>Griffin, Geo. Butler, Notary Public, 87.<LB>Griswold and Maclay, Messrs., 84.<LB>Haddon, Mr., 41.<LB>Hammel, W. A., 84.<LB>Hart <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Burnett, 101.<LB>Helm, --, 55.<LB>Hemphill and Woy, Messrs., 33.<LB>Hiles, Miss, 69.<LB>Hoag, Mrs., teacher, 18.<LB>Hall, Capt. J. Lee, 16, 34, 44.<LB>Hord, Miss, of Mississippi, 59.<LB>Hutchinson, Mr., Superintendent, 10.<LB>Jackson, Mrs. Helen Hunt, 54, 55, 90.<LB>Janus, Prof, 70.<LB>Johnson, Mackintosh, 97.<LB>Jones, William Carey, 95, 98.<LB>Joseph, Chief, 14.<LB>Juaquin, 59.<LB>Keene, Lieut., 15.<LB>Kelton, Gen., 3.<LB>Lamar, Hon. Mr., 12, 45, 49.<LB>Lamond, Miss Hattie L., 18.<LB>Lee, Capt. J. M., 22.<LB>Leese <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Clarke, 96, 100.<LB>Lone Wolf, 34.<LB>Loper, Mrs., 40.<LB>Lugo, Juan, 53. Leonilia, 53. Roman, 53.<LB>MacFarland, Commissioner, 70.<LB>Maclay, Hon. Charles, 74.<LB>Mad Wolf, 27.<LB>Marie, an Indian woman, 65.<LB>McCullom, Agent, 68.<LB>McFarland, Judge, 102.<LB>McKenzie, Mr., Clerk, 10. Mrs., 11.<LB>McKinstrey, Judge, 102.<LB>Mechuc, Valentine, 54.<LB>Miles, Gen., 66. J. D , Agent, 29.<LB>Miller <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Dale, 100.<LB>Minnie Yellow Bear, 19.<LB>Mora, Bishop, 63.<LB>Mudeater, Miss, 19.<LB>Murphy, Miss, 40.<LB>Narcisse, Captain, 58.<LB>Noble, Miss, 68.<LB>Oliver, the negro, 54.<LB>Osborne, Maj., of Tennessee, 8.<LB>Painter, Prof. C. C., 34, 35, 61, 62, 90, 92.<LB>Parks, Mrs., 52.<LB>Paterson, Judge, 102.<LB>Penington, Miss, 18.<LB>Philip, King, 93.<LB>Phipher, Gen., 45.<LB>Pico, Romulo, 82, 83, 87. the Mexican, 64.<LB>Pierson, Col., 4, 38.<LB>Platt, Senator, 6.<LB>Porter, Ben. F., 82. G. K., 78, 82.<LB>Potter, farmer, 16.<LB>Preston, J. W., Agent, 73, 74.<LB><HI REND="italics">Ramona</HI>
052.sgm:, 53.<LB>Rico, Senor Don Andres, 87.<LB>Roch, Rogerio, 74, 75.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<LB>Roman, T. E., Notary Public, 83.<LB>Rust, Mr. and Miss, 61.<LB>Schurz, Hon. Carl, 41.<LB>Scott, Andrew, 63.<LB>Searls, Chief Justice, 102.<LB>Seger, J. H., 20, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 33.<LB>Sharpstein, Judge, 102.<LB>Sheriff, Miss, 68.<LB>Smith, T. S., Justice of the Peace, 79. the man who was killed, 8.<LB>Stamford, Governor, 81.<LB>Standing Bear, 14.<LB>Steibolt, C. H., Superintendent, 18.<LB>Sumner, Col., 4, 15.<LB>Sun Boy, 35.<LB>Taney, B. E., Justice of the Peace, 86.<LB>Temple, from Tennessee, 54. Judge, 102.<LB>Teschmaker <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Thompson, 100.<LB>Thomas, Francis J., Notary Public, 85.<LB>Thompson, Miss, 41. <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Doaksum, 101.<LB>Ticknor, Mrs., teacher, 52, 53.<LB>Townsend <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Greeley, 101.<LB>Ubach, Father, 65.<LB>Upshaw, Mr., Assistant Commissioner, 43.<LB>U. S. <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. White, 100.<LB>Utt, Major, 61.<LB>Veal, Mr., 61.<LB>Voth, Rev. H. R., 19.<LB>Wallace, Major John T., 50, 51.<LB>Ward, Shirley, Counsel for Indians, 57.<LB>U. S. Indian Agent, 51.<LB>Waterman <LB><HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
052.sgm:. Smith, 100.<LB>Woy, Mr., 34.<LB>Wells, Col. G. Wiley, 82.<LB>Welsh, Herbert, Cor. Sec., I. R. A., 91.<LB>Widney, Hon. R. M., 74.<LB>Willcox, Mrs., 56.<LB>Williams, Mr., 16.<LB>Young, Mr., Clerk, 46.</P>
052.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<AD><P><HI REND="bold">A Report which is sure to be read.</HI>
052.sgm:<P>THE<LB>FIFTH ANNUAL REPORT<LB>OF THE<LB>EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE<LB>OF THE<LB>INDIAN RIGHTS ASSOCIATION</P>
052.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">JUST OUT.</HI>
052.sgm:<P>This is the most interesting and important Annual Report ever issued by the Association.  It includes a wide range of subjects, and is full of vital and incisive discussion.  92 pages.  Price, 20 cents.</P>
052.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">SEND FOR IT.</HI>
052.sgm:<P>Address<LB><HI REND="italics">THE INDIAN RIGHTS ASSOCIATION,</HI>
052.sgm:<LB>No. 1305 ARCH STREET,<LB>PHILADELPHIA, PA.</P>
052.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<DIV><AD><P>"THE LATEST STUDIES<LB>ON<LB>INDIAN RESERVATIONS."<LB>BY J. B. HARRISION.</P>
052.sgm:<P>This book has been received by the press of the whole country as the best recent work on the actual condition of Indians on the Reservations.  It is a record of personal investigation form Omaha to Puget Sound and the lave-bed region of Southern Oregon.  It has stimulated discussion in a remarkable degree.  </P>
052.sgm:<P>We are selling the <HI REND="italics">Sixth Thousand</HI>
052.sgm:<P>Address all orders to<LB>THE INDIAN RIGHTS ASSOCIATION <HI REND="italics"><LB>1305 Arch Street, Philadelphia, Pa.</HI>
052.sgm: <HI REND="bold"><LB>Paper, 233 Pages.<HSEP>25 Cents a Copy.</HI>
052.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<P>The Indian Rights Association represents practical and business-like aims and methods for the solution of the Indian problem.  It has no interest in extreme or eccentric theories or plans.</P>
052.sgm:<P>By direct investigation on the various reservations, it has obtained an acquaintance with the actual condition of the Indians, and with the general administration of the Indian service, which is unequalled in extent and accuracy.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The Association co-operates with the Government in all measures and efforts tending to the advancement of the Indians toward self-support.  It favors the immediate adoption of a system for the education of all Indian children; the extension of lew over the reservations, for the protection of the rights of both Indians and white men; the allotment of lands to individual Indians, and the breaking up of tribal organization, which is the real citadel of savagery.  The passage of the general land in severalty bill is the beginning of a new order of things.</P>
052.sgm:<P>The need of the direct observation of facts in the Indian country, and of assistance and redress for Indians in cases of flagrant wrong and encroachment, increases every year.  The opportunities of the Association were never so great as now.  The natural growth of its work requires increased means to sustain it.  Intelligent and public-spirited citizens are invited to examine the work of the Association, and to aid in the accomplishment of its objects.</P>
052.sgm:<P>HERBERT WELSH,</P>
052.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Corresponding Secretary,</HI>
052.sgm:<P>1305 ARCH ST., PHILADELPHIA, PA.</P>
052.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
052.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
052.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LIST OF OFFICERS FOR THE YEAR 1888.</HEAD>
052.sgm:<P>PRESIDENT,<LB>DR. JAMES E. RHOADS.</P>
052.sgm:<P>VICE-PRESIDENT,<LB>CLEMENT M. BIDDLE.</P>
052.sgm:<P>TREASURER,<LB>ROBERT FRAZER.</P>
052.sgm:<P>CORRESPONDING SECRETARY<LB>HERBERT WELSH.</P>
052.sgm:<P>RECORDING SECRETARY,<LB>A. B. WEIMER.</P>
052.sgm:<P>EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE,</P>
052.sgm:<P>CLEMENT M. BIDDLE,</P>
052.sgm:<P>WILLIAM O. BUTLER,</P>
052.sgm:<P>F. HAZEN COPE,</P>
052.sgm:<P>WILLIAM DRAYTON,</P>
052.sgm:<P>ROBERT FRAZER,</P>
052.sgm:<P>W. W. FRAZIER,</P>
052.sgm:<P>JR.,</P>
052.sgm:<P>PHILIP C. GARRETT,</P>
052.sgm:<P>REV. J. ANDREWS HARRIS, D.D.,</P>
052.sgm:<P>PROF. E. J. JAMES,</P>
052.sgm:<P>J. TOPLIFF JOHNSON,</P>
052.sgm:<P>THOMAS LEAMING,</P>
052.sgm:<P>JAMES MACALISTER,</P>
052.sgm:<P>CHARLES E. PANCOAST,</P>
052.sgm:<P>HENRY S. PANCOAST,</P>
052.sgm:<P>J. RODMAN PAUL,</P>
052.sgm:<P>DR. JAMES E. RHOADS,</P>
052.sgm:<P>REV. H. L. WAYLAND, D. D.,</P>
052.sgm:<P>A. B. WEIMER,</P>
052.sgm:<P>HERBERT WELSH,</P>
052.sgm:<P>JAMES A. WRIGHT,</P>
052.sgm:<P>RT. REV. O. W. WHITAKER, D. D. </P>
053.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-053</TITLE>
053.sgm:<TITLE>An excursion to California over the prairie, Rocky mountains, and great Sierra Nevada.  With a stroll through the diggings and ranches of that country.  By William Kelly: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
053.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
053.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
053.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
053.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
053.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
053.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
053.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-0799</LCCN>
053.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
053.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
053.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>AN <LB>EXCURSION TO CALIFORNIA OVER THE <LB>PRAIRIE, ROCKY MOUNTAINS, AND GREAT <LB>SIERRA NEVADA. <LB>WITH A <LB>STROLL THROUGH THE DIGGINGS AND RANCHES <LB>OF THAT COUNTRY</P>
053.sgm:<P>BY WILLIAM KELLY, J.P.</P>
053.sgm:<P>IN TWO VOLUMES. <LB>VOL. I.</P>
053.sgm:<P>LONDON: <LB>CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. MDCCCLL</P>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>WHITING, BEAUFORT HOUSE, STRAND.</P>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>DEDICATIONS and introductions are, I believe, strict matters of etiquette among the bon ton of the Republic of Letters; and, like many of the conventionalities of high life, produce a becoming effect when all other matters are in perfect keeping.  But as I can easily imagine the feelings of a visitor pompously received in the vestibule by a powdered hall-porter, and ceremoniously ushered by a bedizened footman into a drawing-room most meagrely furnished, and wanting in many of the ordinary embellishments, I deemed it prudent to guard against such disappointments, by permitting any of the kind public who may honour me with a call, to lift the latch themselves, and step from the pavement into my humble parlour.  I only adopt the preface lest I should be set down as a pert oddity, seeing that the middle and minor orders of the fraternity prefix it even to their pamphlets and pasquinades.  I do not conceive it to be indispensable, nor, in fact, see exactly in what way I can use it; unless it be in assuring the gentle reader that all the occurrences and adventures I narrate did really happen and befal me--that the children of nature who crossed my path are some more interesting, some more savage than my powers of portraiture--that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>At first I contemplated a series of pictorial illustrations to illuminate these pages; but having once seen an anxious crowd who were intently peering into a printshop, entirely diverted by the bursting of a gentleman's purse on the flagway, it struck me that the plates might be overlooked in the desire to arrive at the marvellous particulars relative to the existence and mode in which gold can be picked out of the dirt in that wonderful country.</P>
053.sgm:<P>It only remains for me to say, that the light style of writing I have endeavoured to employ was suggested somewhat on the principle on which a person, devoid of good vocal powers, attempts a comic song, in expectation that perhaps the humour may countervail the lack of higher attributes; and should any captious critic exclaim, "But nobody asked you to sing, Sir," "Nobody asked you to listen," suggests itself as the reply</P>
053.sgm:<P>Of the<LB>AUTHOR.</P>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS OF VOL. I.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm: makes us acquainted with Strange Bedfellows"--Artemesia--"Long Threatening comes at last"--The Crow Indians--We treat them with Confidence--They treat us with Treachery--The Scuffle--Our Good Fortune--Annihilation of our Packing Fixtures--Ruse to Escape their Vengeance--Midnight Travel--Come up to the Waggon Camp--New Arrangement--Volcanic Debris--Bitter Water--Distant View of the Wind River Range--Sal Eratus Lakes--"The Sweetwater"--Independence Rock--Misnomer of the River--Wonderful Canon--Our Last Buffalo--Surprise a Party of Crows--Their great Fright--Artemesia Fire--No Buffalo west of the Rocky Mountains<HSEP>170</P>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:</FRONT><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>AN EXCURSION TO CALIFORNIA.<LB>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Haul out of Dock--Gale of Wind--Anchor in the River--Description of the Company--All get on Good Terms--Weigh next Morning under Steam, Wind Unabated--Breakfast-table Scene--Sea Sickness--Cure by Vaccination--Sea ran so high, obliged to take Pilot on--His Feelings on the Subject--Barque bears down bound for Bristol, and takes him--Dreadful Squall off the Banks--Strange Meteoric Phenomenon--Description of the Passengers during the Gale--Yankee Pilot-boat and Pilot--Short Sketchy Reference to New York, being desirous to hurry on to the Prairie--Visit Boston--Superb River Steamer--Senatorial and Nigger Eloquence--Return to New York, and start for Albany by Rail--Description of that Mode of Travelling--Cross the Hudson on the Ice--Awkward Accident--Mr. Doheny in Albany--American Notions of Young Irelandism--Impostors--Laughable Occurrence.</P>
053.sgm:<P>WE hauled out of dock, in that fine steam-ship the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Sands</HI>
053.sgm:, on the morning of the 20th of January, 1849, but there was such a hurricane blowing from the west, it was considered not only useless, but exceedingly dangerous, to put out to sea in the teeth of it.  So the anchor was dropped in the river.  We were not over-crowded with passengers, having just enough to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:constitute an agreeable party, chastened by the presence of some of the softer sex, whose charms and accomplishments dispelled the tedium and monotony of the voyage.  Amongst the gentlemen we had every variety and shade of character, "both grave and gay, lively and severe;" some most amusing blades of infinite mirth, who were wont "to keep the table in a roar," and, as usual on all such occasions and congregations, a <HI REND="italics">butt</HI>
053.sgm:<P>None were allowed on shore, as the captain resolved on starting the moment of the slightest lull; however, it blew on, with very little abatement, all day and night, and as the passengers had nothing else to do, they set about breaking the ice of formality with so very earnest a will, that by the time the midnight summons was tolled all were on the most familiar terms possible, separating more after the manner of old friends than new-born acquaintances.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Before I had any idea of turning out in the morning, it not being quite light, I heard the windlass bousing up the anchor, and the wind also whistling through the cordage in C sharp; sounds that brought me on deck to see what was going on, when I found the ship just under weigh,with her propeller, not a rag of canvas being set, as the wind was dead ahead, still blowing great guns; but, as the vessel's trips were preadvertised, Captain Thompson would not wait another tide.  When the breakfast-gong sounded we were abreast of the Rock light, pitching into it in most staggering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>The sea ran so high outside the Light-ship we could not put the pilot on board his craft, and were, consequently, obliged to bring him on, in expectation of meeting a vessel down Channel to take him to port; but we took a last leave of the land off Cape Clear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:without much subsidence of the gale, or an opportunity of transhipping him; much, I should say, from all appearances, to his great gratification, being anxious to see the New World on such favourable terms as a free passage, all found out and home, and his wages accumulating during his absence.  He was a fine, active, intelligent young fellow, and soon became a general favourite, and not wishing to remain idle, proffered his gratuitous services in any department; but the vessel carried so full and efficient a crew, they were most thankfully declined, reminding me of an occurrence of a somewhat similar nature that happened to a friend of mine at the <HI REND="italics">Punch</HI>
053.sgm:<P>The weather now began to moderate, but the pertinacious wind kept still confronting us until we reached a longitude about 800 miles to the westward, when we saw a large barque evidently bearing down for us, and our captain, not divining the object, hove to while she came within hail to ascertain our longitude, the weather being so hazy for some days back she could not get the sun.  Everybody seemed to take an interest in the brazen colloquy but the pilot, who even retired from the deck, actuated by very opposite motives, lest his appearance might suggest the idea of sending him home, if the barque happened to be bound for a British port.  However, in his absence he was not forgotten, for when, in answer to the question, "Where are you bound for?" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We now got a favourable slant which carried us to the Banks of Newfoundland, when one night, as we were all engaged, some at whist, some at chess, some in conversation, and others in hammock, going along smoothly, a sudden sensation struck us like that of the unexpected stop of a vehicle travelling rapidly.  We were tilted against each other; the candles reeled; the captain (whose watch it was below) rushed on deck; and before we could coin a conjecture, the ship was labouring violently, and the stern roar of command, and the clattering of feet on deck, and the hauling of ropes, and the dread bellowing of the elements, announced a tremendous squall, which took us aback, and would, no doubt, have resulted in a most dire catastrophe, only for the promptness and cool energy of the captain and his hardy crew, who had taken in studding-sails, reefed topsails, and got the vessel under easy canvas, before one of the passengers ventured up to inquire "what was the matter."  Some of us imagined the ship had been struck by lightning as well, for the mast-heads and yard-arm ends were studded with large meteors--a phenomenon new to us all; but no one dared ask a question; nor would it have been answered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>Of course nobody was alarmed.  It was a grand spectacle, worth coming the whole voyage to witness; but some melodramatic gentlemen who had descanted most eloquently on the imposing sublimity and grandeur of the war of elements, as if wholly divested of collateral consequences, were a little before simultaneously seized with a desire of examining their Prayer-books, whose gilt-edged leaves had never before been dissevered; our worthy butt, who was aroused from his pillow, demonstrating the entire absence of any emotion on his part, by sitting in the cabin amongst the affrighted ladies in a red worsted nightcap and a cutaway shirt; while Pat's characteristic exclamation, "Hould your tongue, ye haythin; if the Lord knows you're here, we're all done for," might have been most aptly applied to one gentleman, who became suddenly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:converted from the dark doctrines of materialism into a most sanctified professor of the Nicene Creed; but <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The devil got sick, the devil a monk would be--<LB>The devil got well, the devil a monk was he.</HI>
053.sgm:<P>We had a good deal of joking, and divers and sundry bottles of mulled port before we turned in for the night, and a renewal of the fun at the breakfast-table next morning, asking for homilies from our devout brethren, and extolling the appearance of Mr.--in his new evening costume.</P>
053.sgm:<P>All the way across the Gulf Stream and the Banks there was very variable weather, shifty winds that freshened into squalls, and cold rains that were condensed into snow, as we approached the great western continent.  We almost sighted land, and a pilot-boat at the same time, in the early dawn of a clear frosty morning, which proved to be one of the Long Island bluffs; but we were all sadly disappointed on being told it was still 250 miles to Sandy Hook.  The pilot soon clawed up the side, greeting the captain in the national intonation, "Captain, how d'ye you do, any how?" but looked a wee bit gritty as a cluster of innocents hovered around him to decide their various bets as "to how many buttons were wanting on his pea-jacket;" "how many guesses he would make in a given time;" "how many <HI REND="italics">calculations</HI>
053.sgm: he would enter into," and as to "whether he wore earrings or not."  He gave us all the late New York news, and told us "we should meet <HI REND="italics">con</HI>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>I was exceedingly disappointed by the low, flat, naked appearance of the shore as we approached the land, without a natural beauty to meet the eye in any direction save the mariner's idol--a spacious and secure harbour.  But this has been so frequently described, and is now so generally visited, I shall not detain my readers with a fresh portrait, the more particularly as my object is to get him on the prairie with as little delay as possible; neither shall I trouble him with any detailed opinions of the city, or my impressions regarding the striking contrasts presented in the different phases of society and commerce betwixt America and the old country.  I conformed to the maxim, "When at Rome, to do as Rome does," as well as I could, being nearly as quick on my legs as my Yankee competitors at the sound of the meal gongs, but left behind, like the dunce in the schoolroom, in the system of go-a-head mastication.  I smoked my cigar with rather a sickening industry, but could never persuade my palate to relish the juice of the tobacco, or arrive at anything like artistic excellence in squirting it through my teeth.  I reared up my chair rather gallantly on its hind legs; the recollection of an equestrian mishap, however, restrained me from emulating the excellence of those folk who can sit under the shadow of their own toes as complacently and coolly as if under the shade of a tree.  But it appeared to me strangely incompatible with the refined delicacy and high-toned feeling set down by themselves as peculiar to the States, to see a gentleman occupying an entire window, heels aloft on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>I saw all the great sights, from the Croton Waterworks down, and visited most of the public institutions, which appeared to me well managed except the Post-office, which is still conducted on the old press-gang system.  Strange, is it not, that, in such a city, the letter-carrying plan would not be adopted, affording as it does such useful facilities for delivery and communication?  There was nothing going on at the theatres but low buffoonery, nor are those establishments worthy of so great a city.  I went "special" with some ladies of my acquaintance to a promenade concert at the new Opera House in Astor-place, that I might gloat upon the boasted beauty of New York.  However, I found that, like Sheridan's charity, "it is of so domestic a character it never roams abroad," though I was informed all the <HI REND="italics">e&acute;lite</HI>
053.sgm:<P>During my brief sojourn in New York, I put up at, or rather permitted myself to be huddled into, one of those huge human pens in the Broadway which there are called "houses," in contradistinction to the British synonyme of hotel, and found them even more distant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:and diferent in their system of management than in their name; no doubt according and harmonising with the spirit of " <HI REND="italics">free</HI>
053.sgm: and enlightened" habits and republican institutions, but strangely and uncomfortably at variance with the good old English style of conducting such establishments.  As was my wont in the old country, I left my boots outside my bedroom door, where I found them in the morning, drooping as if in anguish at their total neglect, for it seems it is a matter of special contract with Sambo to have them attended to: the usual practice being to give them a daub and a rasp in the back hall after the owner is established in them for the day; clothes-brushing being accomplished in a similar way by a darkie with a pair of twigs, with which he beats a rat-tat-to all over you in time to the hum of one of his sable melodies.  My bell was tardily answered by the wondering intrusion of a woolly-head, which, in reply to the demand for hot water, grinned most laughably a funny smile, and informed massa that "gemmen no shabe at home but go to barber's;" so that I was constrained either to try the process in "frigidum sine," or go down to breakfast in the stubble; before which a printed notification over the mantelpiece caught my eye, whereby I was given to understand, that "unless I deposited the key of my room with the clerk at the bar, the proprietor would not be accountable for my luggage;" a piece of information that stamped our Anglo-American cousins in my mind with the additional attribute of being "free and easy" as well as enlightened.  The only other national characteristic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>Being most desirous to see the scenery on the Hudson, I waited a few days, in expectation that the ice would break up, and enable me to proceed to Albany by water; and those I occupied in visiting Boston, going down to Fall River by the Sound, and thence by rail, choosing this route merely to have an opportunity of travelling in that magnificent boat the <HI REND="italics">Bay States</HI>
053.sgm:<P>Boston I admired much more than New York; it is, in truth, a fine city, fair to look upon, extensive in its commerce, polished in its society, and governed by most excellent municipal laws and regulations; there are more of the true enjoyments of domestic life there than in any other city of the Union I visited.  Wealthy merchants and successful professional men all live in their private houses, and keep their regular staff of servants (or helps, as Jonathan calls them), quite in the English fashion, some even attempting livery, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>On my return to New York, finding the Hudson still impracticable from ice, I started for Albany by rail, in a carriage that answers Dickens's description in every particular, the temperature of which was so smothering from the heat of the stove and confined air, I thought I should have an attack of apoplexy before I got to my destination, for all doors were carefully shut, and no one allowed to open a window, while at every stop I was shot from my seat against the opposite panel with a stunning concussion, Yankee drivers not caring to graduate their speed before stopping, as we do, but shutting off their steam at one stroke, come to a stand-still, with a shock as if the engine ran tilt against a battery wall, which is not only excessively uncomfortable to the passengers, but, I should say, highly injurious both to the machinery and carriages.  The regulations, though, with regard to luggage, are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>When I arrived at Albany, I found the station-house on the opposite side of the river to the town, so I employed a light spring waggon to take me over with my luggage; and the moment I got up, seated on my portmanteau, the driver set off at a gallop down a steep incline to the river, as I supposed to water his nags, there being no bridge in the line; but in he dashed full speed, to my great dismay, plashing the water, which was full eight inches deep on the ice.  I held my breath, and affected a composure that was every now and then awkwardly tested by a straining crack, as if the whole frozen platform was about breaking up for the season, being fully persuaded my hour was come, when one of the wheels-spun off, oversetting us, with a stunning crash, sending my portmanteau half scudding, half skating along like a miniature locomotive, and spreading me out in a sprawling posture, uncertain whether running or swimming was to be the next move.  I was soon, however, in pursuit of the fugitive horses towards the opposite shore, leaving the driver to tow my traps into harbour.</P>
053.sgm:<P>In Albany I found the renowned Mr. Doheny, who had obtained the use of the Hall of Assembly to give to the curious public "a full and true account" of his chapter of "moving accidents by flood and field," at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:the small cost of fifty cents a head.  I made one of a large audience, who, it was quite clear from their remarks and commentaries, were merely congregated to hear his version of the matter, and not from any interest in the prospects of his party, or solicitude about the fate of his companions.  His address was well concocted--set up <HI REND="italics">rather tall</HI>
053.sgm:, no doubt, as Jonathan would say; the striking incidents dramatically arranged, and delivered theatrically; but his most studied efforts failed to excite a spark of enthusiasm; his hair-breadth escapes were unable to elicit a single thrill of sympathy; his choicest flowers of oratory were culled in vain.  The memory of the illustrious dead interposed as a gloomy non-conductor; and while the Irish emigrant murmured his conviction that the death of O'Connell lay at the door of the Young Ireland party, the other section of the auditory muttered their distrust in the sincerity of the leaders of the revolt, sneering at the Tipperary rising as a parody on rebellion--that rising, forsooth, which was to wrest the brightest gem in the British diadem from the grasp of that powerful nation--a campaign got up without concert, arms, ammunition, money, or organisation; opened with a few dozen of the "hereditary bondsmen," ready to "strike the blow" from pure love of liberty, and the smallest taste in life of plunder;--but no, they must not infringe the sacred rights of property while they were excited to overturn a dynasty, and annihilate law and order; the revolution must be accomplished without an outrage; O'Connell would not have repeal "at the cost of a single drop ofhuman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>Thus began and ended that stupendous physical force demonstration which was to place the descendant of the great Brian Bhoru on the Irish throne, an independent sovereign, and inundate the land with milk and honey.  Could any sane or honest man, or set of men, expect any such result from such an effort? "Pooh, pooh! gammon! fudge! treachery!" responded Jonathan; "it is all very fine, Mr. Doheny, but rather <HI REND="italics">steep</HI>
053.sgm:<P>While Mr. Doheny and some of his genuine brethren were giving their evenings at home in various localities, several impostors sprung up to minister to the public appetite throughout the Union, it appearing to be as easy a way as any going of gathering the dollars.  Men, therefore, who were some years in the States, but still retained enough of the brogue, blarney, and brass, to pass for modern refugees, started this game, which was permaturely detected in Cincinnati, where a Mr. O'Neil, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:placarded himself to appear on a certain evening, having accordingly presented himself to a well-filled house, in a herculean frame, uncomfortably overdressed; and, smoking with the vapour of hot rum-punch, he commenced by saying, "Ladies and gintlemen, I arise up forninst yees, to decant upon the sorrows and troubles of my poor country. (Cheers and pshaws.)  I strugglid many a long day for her, and was <HI REND="italics">willin</HI>
053.sgm: to spill my <HI REND="italics">own</HI>
053.sgm: blood in her great and glorious cause, but the <HI REND="italics">vyle Saxin invaydhir</HI>
053.sgm: hunted me out from the bright <HI REND="italics">jm of the say</HI>
053.sgm:.  (Loud cheers and hisses, and fluttering of whey-coloured wipers.)  Och, ladies, it's aisy known there is some of the green-eyed<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
053.sgm: daughters of Ehrin amongst yees when I hear that cheer" --(Interruption, hisses, and cries of "Give back the tin!" "Go on!" "Humbug!" "Walked into!")--during which the patriot bolted, getting out at a back door.  This produced a great scene of uproar, some hunting the premises, and others giving chase in the street; however, Mr. O'Neil made a most effective display, for he successfully eluded pursuit with the entire proceeds.  I did not remain long enough in the States to ascertain in how far the promulgation of this attempt affected the <HI REND="italics">regulars</HI>
053.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1"><HI REND="italics">Quere</HI>
053.sgm: -Dark-eyed daughters of <HI REND="italics">green</HI>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Start for Buffalo--Scene with a Yankee Railway Clerk--Relieved from my Dilemma by some brother Exiles--Meet my Friend in Buffalo with two Recruits--Increase of the Californian Fever as I went West--Visit the Falls of Niagara--Great Fall in my preconceived Notions regarding them--Fairy Suspension-bridge--Novel Test of its Safety--Description of the Canadian Stage-coach--Glance at the Country and Towns--Detroit--Cause of its Statu Quo--Start for Niles--Rough Jaunt thence to Michigan City--Description of the Country--Lose my Way--Meet some Sulky Indians--Get right again after some Fatigue and Anxiety--Reach Chichago--Great Chain of Inland Navigation--Fine Farming Country on Fox and Rock Rivers--Melancholy Occurrence in the Vicinity of Chichago--Disagreeable Travel from that Town--Arrive at Juliett--Struggle on to Ottoway, a nice thriving Town--Its Manufactures--City of Peru; Wretched Place--The Post-office there--Get a Steamer to St. Louis--Affecting Steam-boat Disaster--St. Louis a fine City. HAVING made an appointment to meet a brother voyager across the Atlantic on a certain day in Buffalo--one who promised to accompany me across the plains--I went to the railway-office early in the morning to ascertain the time of the starting of the train for that city.  On entering the apartment, I saw before me on the counter the soles of a pair of boots, which I found were affixed to a long, thin-edged clerk, who was poised below in an arm-chair, mumbling a cigar.</P>
053.sgm:<P>"Is there an early train for Buffalo?" I asked.</P>
053.sgm:<P>"I reckon," said he.</P>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>"What do you reckon?" I rejoined, smiling, without meaning offence.</P>
053.sgm:<P>"I reckon you sha'n't travel in it, any how," said he, getting on his legs, in an angry mood.</P>
053.sgm:<P>"I require to get to Buffalo by the earliest conveyance.  What's the fare?"</P>
053.sgm:<P>"No need for hurry.  I'll let you wait till evening."</P>
053.sgm:<P>"I observe by this notice," pointing to one on the wall, "that a train goes at nine o'clock."</P>
053.sgm:<P>"Well, you'll not travel in it; I'll make you go by the dear cars.  I see you can afford it."</P>
053.sgm:<P>"You shall not coerce me to travel otherwise than as I choose, and I warn you to refuse me a ticket at your peril," I said, throwing down my eagle.  But he coolly turned away, and commenced reading a newspaper on the desk; I tried, and threatened, but could not extract another syllable from him, and never was more provoked, feeling a tingling at my fingers' ends to have a go at him; but I thought it the better course to remain, and represent his conduct to the directors.  However, my anxiety to get forward was greater than my ire, for, in hurrying to ask the advice of my landlord how I should manage under the circumstances, I met in the gateway a batch of my country-men, "coming to <HI REND="italics">dhraw</HI>
053.sgm: their <HI REND="italics">passagis</HI>
053.sgm:," as they said, to one of whom I gave the eagle to purchase an extra ticket, by which means I got on, much to the chagrin of this autocratic servant, who absolutely dared to stop my luggage; but this I summarily stopped by an <HI REND="italics">argumentum ad hominem</HI>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>A pretty specimen this of the laws and customs of the free republic, where a stranger's comfort and convenience is at the mercy of an impudent railway clerk, who can inflict the penance of extra cost and delay if you cannot comprehend in a moment his delectable slang!</P>
053.sgm:<P>It is needless to take up time and space in describing towns and cities, of which full-length portraits are contained in every handbook; while the country being enveloped in a shroud of snow, debarred me from seeing any variety of feature worthy of notice.  I found my friend in Buffalo, with two Californian recruits, Canadian gentlemen, who were most acceptable companions, being men of education and ability.  Although the Californian fever prevailed along the eastern seaboard, I found, the further I went west, the more intensely it became ramified; the scepticism, too, that accompanied it along the coast, vanished as I approached the banks of the Mississippi.  There were several parties in process of formation in Buffalo, who had prospectuses published stating the nature of their engagements, and setting forth their rules and bye-laws; but they were not exactly the style of men we chose to herd with for four months, so we determined to hold on until we got to St. Louis, unless we happened to meet more congenial spirits.</P>
053.sgm:<P>As the lake navigation to Detroit was closed, without a hope of its opening for a month, we booked ourselves by a stage that travels from Niagara over Canada--a long and tedious route, but the only one practicable at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:the time--getting to the Falls by rail, where we stopped a few hours to survey the celebrated cataract; but, like most other American marvels, it falls, in my mind, far short of its wondrous reputation.  They are great falls, no doubt, measuring the body of water that tumbles over them; but they are neither nearly so high, nor so beautiful, as many of those in Switzerland, Ireland, and Scotland, that I had already seen.  I saw them, too, in their most attractive guise, corniced round with huge grotesque icicles, the rocks fantastically fretted in crisp snowy drapery, and sheets of disengaged ice plunging momentarilyinto the seething abyss below; and though I was vastly pleased, I was not exactly stupified with amazement, much to the annoyance of some Yankee gentlemen who were viewing them at the same time, vowing "they whipped all creation in the water <HI REND="italics">land-</HI>
053.sgm:<P>My admiration was much more largely drawn upon by the exquisitely delicate suspension-bridge that spans the rushing waters of the river, which hangs at a distance in mid-air, like the slender threads of the silkworm, discernible only by the frequent weavings of its tiny wires; and even when approached and surveyed closely, looks rather as if it was intended as a thoroughfare for fairies than a human highway.  Our luggage was trundled over in a barrow, but we were not permitted to follow until it reached the other side, which caused me to ask the toll-keeper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:did he not then consider it safe.  "Oh, yes," he said, "perfectly safe; a <HI REND="italics">woman</HI>
053.sgm:<P>There was a clumsy stage vehicle waiting on the Canadian side, holding nine inside passengers, in rather uncomfortable proximity with canvas flaps hanging down in lieu of windows, which neither answered to exclude the air or admit the light.  I never travelled in so disagreeable a conveyance; and, to make the matter worse, we were doomed to a long tenure of it, as from the state of the roads, the winter now breaking up, we scarcely averaged a mile an hour, the wheels sinking the whole time up to the naves.  The trip to Detroit occupied us nine days and nights, and I calculate that we walked at least half the distance, being frequently called out in the middle of a cold raw night to trudge up to our knees through miry roads, or have the vehicle stuck in the same spot all the time.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We passed through some magnificent country around St. Margaret's, Hamilton, and London, where the farm and farmsteads are fully equal to any in the old country, and the land rated at as high a price.  Detroit is a beautifully situated city, on the strait between Lakes Erie and St. Clair, but its progress is retarded by the dogged obstinacy of the old French inhabitants, who own most of the property on which it stands, and, like the dog in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>I got from Detroit to Niles by railway; but thence to Chichago I was obliged, with seven others, to travel in an open waggon.  There are some comfortable and improving farmers about Niles, and along the northern part of Indiana to Michigan city.  But after leaving this place, which is a dull, stupid village, built amongst sandhills, formed by the drift from the lake shores near which it stands, the road lies through a large forest; and as our progress was necessarily slow, there being no regular road, I took my rifle and started for a saunter, appointing to catch up at a distant landmark, and diverged off the path, in expectation of finding some deer, with which I heard the forest was well stocked; but after some hours' laborious beating about, without meeting game of any description, feathered or four-footed, I headed, as I thought, to the appointed place.  When I arrived there, I could not find any indication of travel, and being very much tired, sat down for an hour's rest; but as evening approached without any sing of the waggon, I became rather uneasy, firing my rifle at intervals; and no shot being returned, I struck off in a westerly direction, in hopes of crossing the trail, fagging over five miles without discovering a trace, until I came suddenly upon some Indians, who were in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We reached Chichago next day, and found it in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>In walking over the common in the afternoon I witnessed a very melancholy occurrence, in the wounding of a lady of great respectability, who was leading her child by the hand for an evening stroll, when she was shot quite close to me by a fellow who, with a number of others, was indulging in rifle practice.  He at first made an attempt to run for the suburbs, but afterwards waited until he was arrested.  When I left next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>The next day's stage lay over a low prairie, which presented a surface of pools, lakes, and flashes, from the late thaws, that made it more a water than a land journey, and, as the fellow said who agreed to work his passage by driving canal horses, "I might as well walk as be after trudging in that manner;" being compelled to proceed most of the way on foot, as the horses were unable to pull the waggon through the miry ground, while, to add to our grievances, we were some miles from our quarters at sundown, and, in endeavouring to pick out the most favourable wading places in the gloaming, were frequently aswim in crossing the sloughs.  However, we reached an old Dutch settler's in safety, where we billeted ourselves for the night.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The following day we crossed a rough but interesting country parallel with the canal, and got to Juliett, a new town, in a tremendous thunderstorm.  It was our intention to perform the remainder of the journey to Peru by water in a small skiff; but the river was so swollen, we were recommended to put up with the inconveniences of an infamous road, and a worse conveyance, rather than risk the current.  A pair of horses was all we could muster, one of which was as lame as a tree, making a team barely equal to the luggage, for it was only on firm level ground, and that in their turn, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We here got the steamer to St. Louis, which was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>Towards the close of the second day, as the shades of evening were beginning to settle down, we observed a halo above the horizon, in the direction where the sun had sank; but imagining it emanated from that luminary, we thought nothing of it, till it became quite apparent, as we advanced, that it was a lurid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>She was a superb new boat, owned by the captain, a young man whose all was embarked in her, who was just married to a lovely girl, and was spending the first phase of the honeymoon on board the virgin craft, that had too, on the same morning, espoused her destined element; and sailed proudly and gaily away from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>St. Louis is a great commercial city, and is already styled the Queen of the West, from the rapidity of its growth, and the steady increase of its commerce.  The streets in the older parts of the town are, unfortunately, rather narrow for the throng of business; but all the more modern ones are laid out with great regularity and sufficient width for any thoroughfare, built in a substantial and ornate style of architecture.  The quays, however--the great arena of trade--are altogether too circumscribed for the requirements of the great commerce of the place, and present a scene of everlasting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Pleasing Aspect of Slavery at St. Louis--Meet an Old Schoolfellow resident there--Takes me to see the Lions--Get our full Complement of Recruits--Decline Equipping until we reached the Frontier Towns--Town filled with Californian Placards--Streets lined with Californian Implements--News-papers crammed with Californian Advertisements--Hold a Meeting of the Company, at which I was elected Captain--All Novices in Desert-Travelling--Adopt a Costume--Give a Dinner to our Friends--Attend a Nigger Ball--Description of the Assembly--Get Turned Out--The Cause Explained--Start for Independence--Steam-boat Company--Their Tastes and Habits--The Missouri River and its Settlers--Wild Fowl; Wild Turkey--Rifle Practice--Jefferson City, the Capital of Missouri--Steam-boat Race; Nervous Affair--Study of American Customs--Left behind at Boonville--Exciting Race--Independence--Get our Outfit--Purchase Mules, Horses, and Waggons--Difficulty of Managing our Mules--Nigger Mode of dealing with them--Start for the Line--Indian Tribes; their Decline--Ravenous Pigs--Arrangement of Duties. AT St. Louis I got, for the first time, fairly into the region of slavery, the black, muggy face and woolly head of the nigger meeting me at every turn.  Every menial duty, and nearly all labour, is performed by this race, who, slaves though they be, seem a jolly, contented set, generally on the broad grin, poking fun and jokes at one another; rendering it the next thing to impossible to pity their deplorable state, all one can do, while they themselves appear so provokingly happy.  But I was obliged to soothe my conscience by admitting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>In coming down the Illinois I made acquaintance of eleven young men, lately from England, bound for California; persons of respectability and education, with means, too, to fit out according to the standard my other friends and I had chalked out.  We seemed mutually attracted to each other, and the moment the idea of union was broached they immediately acquiesced, making our muster fifteen; while an accession of ten more at the City Hotel of the same class completed the number we desired--twenty-five, all told; eight of whom were Yankees, two Scotchmen, and two Irishmen, leaving the old country represented in our party in the ratio of two to one.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We first intended to fit out in St. Louis, lest the traders in the two towns on the extreme frontier might <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>As I before remarked, the further west I proceeded, the more intense became the Californian fever.  California met you here at every turn, every corner, every dead wall; every post and pillar was labelled with Californian placards.  The shops seemed to contain nothing but articles for California.  As you proceeded along the flagways, you required great circumspection, lest your coat-tails should be whisked into some of the multifarious Californian gold-washing machines, kept in perpetual motion by little ebony cherubs, singing <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh, Susannah, don't you cry for me,<LB>I'm gone to California with my wash-bowl on my knee.</HI>
053.sgm:<P>Californian advertisements, and extracts from Californian letters, filled all the newspapers; and "are you for California?" was the constantly recurring question of the day; so that one would almost imagine the whole city was on wheels bound for that attractive region.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Acting on Mr. W--'s advice, we only purchased our rifles, pistols, broadswords, and bowie-knives there; but, as our company was complete, it was resolved to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We gave a dinner the evening before we left to our friends and acquaintances at St. Louis, at which we had a great deal of Californian spouting and singing; but I contrived to get away early with Mr. W--, to attend a nigger ball, in honour of some African festival, which I was given to understand would be a rare treat to a foreigner, unused to the imitative gentility of the sable race. It is a matter of some difficulty for whites to get admission to those reunions, as jokes and tricks have often resulted from their presence; besides which, the niggers conceive they only desire to attend in order to ridicule them.  However, Mr. W--got tickets through some of his own darkies, and we were admitted, but not without a rigid scrutiny.  Although it was full nine o'clock when we entered, there was no one in the ball-room but the stewards, strutting about in all the pride of lofty shirt-collars and decorations, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:this assembly of " <HI REND="italics">Allblacks</HI>
053.sgm: " had their correct notions about the fashionable propriety of late hours as well as the titled frequenters of Willis's Great Rooms.  Some of the earliest setting-downs took place shortly after our arrival, the ladies, in low dresses, tightened round the waist with an indentation more like a girth than a pair of stays; all wearing little kerchiefs of bright colours round their necks, with a sort of semi-turban on the head, of a regular rainbow complexion; and drops, of such dimensions and gravity as elongated the ears into the shape of jargonelle pears.  Men and women wore white gloves, and their faces shone with a polish as if they washed in copal varnish for the occasion.  There was also a deal of perfumery in requisition, but eau de Cologne and lavender-water soon became too strongly diluted with other essences to retain their virtues, bringing to mind Dean Swift's couplet-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Not all Arabia's spices would sufficient be;<LB>Thou smell'st not of their sweets--they stink of thee."</HI>
053.sgm:<P>The orchestra was at the end of the room, and in front of it a refreshment counter, where mint juleps and oyster patties were served out.  There were several old people amongst the company, all of whom had either a pair of bones, or a tin rattle in the head of their canes, to beat time, as they could not dance.  Presently the fiddles and banjos struck up, when the floor was quickly tenanted; a movement very soon followed by a hurricane of sneezing, during which I also caught the infection; but the noise of those nasal convulsions was partly drowned as the "fun became fast and furious," raising up a dust <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>The journey from St. Louis to Independence is accomplished by water, so we secured our berths on board the <HI REND="italics">Sacramento,</HI>
053.sgm: and though I was now tolerably well seasoned to the vexations of travel, there was such a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We sailed twenty-five miles up the Mississippi, where its clear waters receive the turbid Missouri, up whose stream our course lay for near 400 miles.  At the point of junction it is much the larger river of the two, though it yields up its name to its more slender partner.  We lay by every night, for the snags and sawyers on it are so numerous and formidable, no pilot would undertake to run after sunset, unless with a full moon and a cloudless sky.  The country along its banks is, for the most part, thickly wooded and level, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:soil generally rich and fertile; but it is excessively unhealty, and the inhabitants or settlers are a gaunt race, with drab complexions, the exact reflection of the muddy current.  It is not from the water, I believe, they imbibe their maladies, for when it is allowed to settle, although it loses its consistence it retains its colour, and makes a well-tasted wholesome beverage.  There are numbers of dry bars throughout the entire river, which keep shifting, and thus changing the channel perpetually.  They are covered with wild geese exclusively, for during the entire sail we never saw any other description of water-fowl, the ducks seeming to have their dominion on the limpid Ilinois, and the geese their kingdom on the Missouri.  There were plenty of wild turkeys in the woods; but from a speciment that one of our passengers shot, they are not here a very desirable bird, for it was all shanks and wings; the steward, to whom it was given to prepare for table, asserting "the tarnation critter would soak more butter in basting than it was worth."  I suspect, however, it must have been raised in the regions of malaria, for there is no finer or more delicate fowl when you get it in condition, as I afterwards did when crossing the plains.  We frequently saw deer swimming across, both ahead and astern of us, which afforded the Californians fine opportunities for rifle practice; indeed, throughout each day it was an unintermitting fusilade, except at meal hours; and from the reckless manner in which some directed their discharges, and the awkward way in which others handled their guns, it was next to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We passed Mountpleasant as we ascended the stream, and Jefferson City, the capital of the State of Missouri, where we waited sufficiently long to explore the place.  It is a small town, without much trade, or anything deserving of notice but the Senate House, which is more remarkable for its size and elevated position than its architectural taste.  While lying here we were over hauled by another boat belonging to an opposition company, and as soon as she was discovered the bell was rung violently for "all on board," and the fires heaped with fuel for a race.  I am a great advocate for speedy travelling, and like the sensation quite as much as Dr. Johnston, provided I am seated in a "postchaise;" but in this instance there was a large drawback on my pleasure, for instead of sitting behind a docile team, I was cheek-by-jowl with a high-pressure engine,in danger of being cooked to a bubble in hot steam, or blown as food for fishes into the cold river.  I looked anxiously to the shore, and felt a longing desire for a stroll in the woods, which became more intense as the black smoke gurgled out of the funnel; for though I did not study the science of "Fumography" in Paul Dogherty's school, by which "a man can tell by the smoke from the kitchen chimney what his neighbour has for dinner," I was sufficiently familiar with the murky element to know there was an explosion in our pot if we persevered much longer.  We have it on the authority of our ancestors, that a "hen on a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>From the number we had on board, and the consequent consumption of food, our stock of provisions began to run low, so that at the second and third tables there was neither milk nor butter, or a efficiency of fresh meat--a state of things which begat a more active competition than usual to secure places at the first table, making it a source of great danger to enter into the strife when the bell rang.  I was generally content to await the second class; and as I stood behind the more fortunate passengers, waiting for a vacant chair, had an excellent opportunity of studying the Western mode of dinner tactics; when it struck me forcibly that the only way of ensuring expedition is to learn to perform all the evolutions with the same implement--a practice in which they all seemed adepts--first cutting the morsel with their knives, then feathering them, sailor fashion, tucking in with them meat and vegetables at one and the same time, slipping it from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:the mouth into the " <HI REND="italics">sarse</HI>
053.sgm:<P>We stopped at Boonville, a very nice little town, to get a fresh supply of provisions, when a lot of us took advantage of the period to look at a drove of mules a dealer said he had in a paddock beyond the town.  On examining them we found they were all of the American breed, which did not suit, and returned leisurely towards the quay; but on getting to the hill overlooking the river we saw the steamer under weigh, and a considerable distance up stream.  Our first idea was to run and engage a boat to follow; but then the absurdity of giving chase to a steamer with oars, soon again flashed upon us; so with one impulse we started at a quick run along the hill-side, entering a thick forest beyond the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Independence we found precisely what Mr. W--described it--abundantly supplied with every article requisite for our outfit.  We placed ourselves entirely in the hands of Mr. White, who is extensively engaged in the Mexican trade, with large branch establishments at Santa Fe and Chihanha, and, having crossed the plains several times to those places, was, from his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Our animals in all amounted to sixty-one, and we appointed Easter Monday as the day to come and take them away; meantime we were very industrious in getting our other supplies.  The town of Independence is nicely placed on elevated ground, gently declining all around, with finely-timbered hills <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Few of the others intended starting before the 1st of May, as the spring was unusually backward, and they apprehended a scarcity of feed; but on Easter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It was tolerably late in the day before our five teams were hitched up and ready for the road; but as we got into line, a finely-mounted and accoutred little troop, a man on each side of every waggon, in the plain but handsome uniform, we looked rather gay, and had a respectable throng about us, who raised a valedictory and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:admiring cheer as we moved off, only twenty-five strong, nearly three weeks in advance of the remainder of the emigration.  We only travelled eight miles, taking up our quarters near Colonel Russell's rendezvous, who was to lead a very large company across the plains that season.  It was a fine night, our good stars seeming to shine auspiciously upon us.  Discipline was now commenced, and guard relieved every two hours.  Next morning we had another series of battles with the mules, but we got them in, and in motion, any breakage or accident, and proceeded over twelve miles of magnificent country to the Line--I don't mean the great globular girdle from which Mrs. Ramsbottom would give her eyes to get a few yards for a <HI REND="italics">Unick</HI>
053.sgm:<P>The tribes close by the border are the Shawnees and Delawares, immediately beyond whom, on the Kansas, are the Pottawattomees: all of whom are partly christianised, and speak and understand a little English; but neither precept, example, or encouragement, can convert them into useful or industrious habits; for though game has become very scarce on the frontier prairies, they prefer depending for sustenance on its precarious supply to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We had here a fine field for training our mules, as we could start off in any direction without fear of an overset from gripe or gully; so every morning, the first thing after breakfast, we all mustered to harness them, and give them a good drive, lest idleness should cause them to relapse into their original mulishness.  We waited here five days, and hired an ox-waggon, laden with corn for feed, to accompany us as far as the Kansas, as the grass was so short it would not afford <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We were confoundedly annoyed, morning and evening, by hordes of half-wild hogs, which the settlers suffer to propagate <HI REND="italics">ad infinitum</HI>
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053.sgm:<P>In our camp on the Line we became regularly drilled into the duties and customs of our new life, and, by mutual agreement, took upon ourselves the several branches of labour involved in the journey--some consenting to drive, some to cook, others undertaking to wash, patch, and mend clothes, harness, &amp;c. &amp;c. &amp;c., but all obliged to take their regular spells at guard.</P>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Start Monday, 16th April--Feeling on launching out on the Prairie--Description of the Scene--The lone Elm--Disappointment--Bull Creek--Soaking Rain Storm--Pleasing Scenery--Stick in the Mud--Unpleasant Quarters--Wolfish Serenade--Indian Creek--Handsome Landscape--Indian Visit--Crossing of the Wakarusa; its Difficulties--Coon Point--Prairie Spring--Game--Absence of the Buffalo; the Cause--Effect on Indian Population--The Shonganong--Bad Travelling--Break an Axle--Indian Settlement--Break a Tongue--Alarming Accident--Blacksmith's Shop and Residence--Trouble about getting him to Work--Reach the Kansas--Trading Post--Style of Trading there--Indian Fops--Ferry of the Kansas--Risk of Crossing--Catch some Fish--Beautiful Valley of the Kansas--Reflections--French Catholic Mission--Devotedness of the Rev. Father to his Flock and Pupils--Construct a temporary Viaduct--Approach the Pawnee Nation--Their Habits and Propensities--Attempt to steal our Animals--"The Vermilion"--Indian Interposition--Shoot Birds resembling Woodcock--Quantity of Wolves--Disappointment about the Position of the "Big Blue"--Bad Camping Ground--Miss one of our Men--Protracted and fatiguing Search--Cause of his Straying--Directions to prevent such Occurrences for the Future. ON Monday, the 16th of April, we fairly launched out on our long and arduous journey, like a small fleet leaving a roadstead for the vast and trackless ocean, and soon left in the dim distance the last haunts of our civilised brethren.  An inexpressible feeling of silent contemplation seemed to pervade the entire company, as we proceeded without exchanging an observation for some hours. It was the first time that any of us had traversed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>As I cast my eye over the broad surface of the prairie, it looked like a perfect level; still it is a series of immense undulations, like the huge lazy swells of the Atlantic in a calm.  Vegetation was only beginning to sprout, but though the herbage was short, it was deliciously green; there was no object to break the monotony of the view--no hill, no mound, no crag, or bush--until we came in sight of "The lone Elm," a solitary tree, that stands upon the margin of a pool, like an outcast from the forest.  We approached the water as we would an unexpected banquet, but, to our great mortification, found the putrid carcase of an ox rotting in the middle of it, emitting a stench that even caused our animals to taste it daintily.  We reached a camping ground, twenty-eight miles from the frontier, called Bull Creek, the point where the Santa Fe trail diverges in a south-westerly direction; and found tolerable grass about the stream, with a miserable habitation, and an Indian attempt at cultivation.  Though favoured with a fine day, as night came in black heavy clouds and floating masses of watery vapour gave indication of a storm, which burst upon us just as we sat to supper, blowing a hurricane, and teeming down torrents of rain.  It was perfectly useless to attempt pitching our tents, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The morning opened finely, and we were after breakfast and in motion before seven o'clock; but the ground, saturated with the heavy rain, made the draught very severe.  The country over which we passed to-day was more interesting, rising into more elevated slopes, and pleasingly diversified by the belts of timber that fringed the stream which ran across our path.  It rather surprised me to find those rivulets so few and insignificant, considering the vast amount of drainage they have to carry off; which shows there must be a very porous subsoil, for the deluge of the previous night had no perceptible effect on their current.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We expected to reach the Wakarusa that night, but in crossing a dell where the water lodged our waggons got so embedded in the mud, and the footing for the mules became so soft and bad we were obliged to completely unload them, and carry the contents on our backs in small loads over to where there was firm ground, which occupied us until dark, necessitating us to take up our quarters on the spot, without water, except that which welled up in the waggon tracks or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Next day we made a short stage, coming upon a fine fertile bottom, where, for the first time, we met anything like a growth of new grass.  That was too tempting to pass by; as I thought a good cool repast after the dry, warm corn feeding, would be refreshing and invigorating to our animals.  There was, besides, a further temptationin the wild loveliness of the spot, with a limpid rivulet, called Indian Creek, flowing along the base of a bold bluff, capped with timber, which held the sweet meadow in its embrace, on whose bosom the Indigo plant, with its pale blue flower, and the wild pink verbena, were just beginning to unfold their beauties, spangling the verdant carpet with their variegated hues.  In the distance, to the south-east, a dense wood bounded the view, constituting a landscape that would not fail to charm the most enthusiastic admirer of natural scenery.  We halted a second day in this lovely nighbourhood, and had a visit from some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The Wakarusa was only five miles distant; but there were several sloughs that crossed our route, compelling us to take long detours to avoid them, making our actual advance so inconsiderable, that it was noon before we got to the high banks overhanging that river, which is of a tolerable size compared with the other creeks and rivulets we passed.  I should mention that the term "Creek" is applied in Western Prairie life to little streams or brooks, though its general signification is that of bay or indentation.  The descent was a matter of extreme difficulty, from its excessive steepness and the sinuosities of the path; so we took out the two lead spans from each waggon, locked both hindwheels, and held back with ropes attached to the axle; but even with these precautions it was a very risky undertaking.  I stationed double teams at the bottom, hitched-to the instant the waggons landed before they got time to sink, which pulled them over, and up the opposite banks, by a liberal application of whipcord, and a storm of shouting and holloaing, at strange variance with the usual repose of the locality.</P>
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053.sgm:<P>Those sort of obstacles materially enhanced the difficulties of our march, and made large gaps in our slow progress of waggon travelling.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The country now for some miles became hilly and broken, covered with a debris of gravel and loose round stones, of a dark reddish tint.  There was one very elevated bluff, called "Coon Point," at the foot of which stands an abyss, with very good water; but we pushed on to a place called "Prairie Spring," situated at the head of a grassy ravine, from which we startled a small herd of deer that were slaking their thirst at the clear fountain.  One of our party also flushed and shot a brace of prairie hens, a fine bird, somewhat larger than our grouse, but resembling it closely in shape and plumage; the flavour of their flesh was exquisitely delicate, forming a very welcome addition to our otherwise invariable fare of fried bacon.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Some years back, herds of buffalo used to roam in unrestrained freedom over those plains, slain only as the wants of food and raimentpressed upon the Indian; but so soon as the fur-trading companies commenced their traffic for the hides, they were slaughtered without regard to the flesh, and the hides bartered for beads and baubles, until the incessant warfare drove them back upon the banks of the Platt, leaving no substitute for food but the timid, wary deer.  Whether the steady decrease in the Indian family is attributable to the decrease of their wonted sustenance cannot be well determined; but it is quite remarkable that since that period <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Next morning we ascended from the ravine to an elevated ridge of grassy land, along which we travelled ten or twelve miles, enjoying a magnificent prospect on each hand of the boundless plains, intersected with their little aqueous arteries and lines of timber, that in some places resembled the studied planting of large domains; and probably, at no very distant period, this untenanted paradise will be dotted with the abodes of the pale-face, and its solemn grandeur dispelled by the busy activity of industry and commerce.  We directed our course to the upper crossing of the Kansas, at the Pottawattomee Mission, or Trading Post, as it is more generally called, diverging from the more frequented track towards a small river, called the "Shonganong," when our travelling became very difficult, from the entire absence of any path and the softness of the ground.  The first branch of that river was altogether impassable, until we made a sort of corduroy sole, by cutting down trees and strewing their trunks on the bottom--an expedient we were also forced to adopt at the second branch, where we unfortunately broke an axle in one of the waggons; but, as we took the precaution of bringing a spare one to each, dressed, and ready for putting on, save the iron shoulders, which we took from the broken one, it was not so bad an accident as might be imagined; nevertheless even with this facility, it occupied us till dark before all was set to rights.</P>
053.sgm:<P>There is a small settlement of christianised Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:between the forks of this river, under the immediate patronage of the missionaries; but their attempts at fencing and cultivation give bad promise of ultimate success; and the me&acute;nage of their household is quite on a par with their agricultural progress.  They have had nice little log-houses erected for them, plainly furnished with chairs, tables, dressers, &amp;c. &amp;c. &amp;c., all of which serve merely as ornaments, for they never use them, cooking their food in the primitive fashion, and squatting to their meals in preference to sitting at table.  They have herds of small horses--animals of great endurance--but cannot be induced to keep or attend to any cows about the settlement, which, indeed, is not particularly well chosen, either in regard of the beauty of the situation or quality of the soil, being surrounded with sloughs and morasses, in one of which we broke a waggon-tongue the following morning, and well nigh lost a span of lead mules, who all but disappeared in the mire, the middle span falling over them and snapping the tongue, obliging us to cut off the harness hurriedly, and drag out the topmost ones with ropes, two men standing up to their armpits in mud, holding up the heads of the others to prevent their suffocation.  This second accident caused great detention, for we had to apportion the loading of the crippled waggon amongst the other four, until we got as far as the smith's, about eight miles off, where we expected to have the fracture repaired.  We now got into a very hilly country, sparely covered with timber, some of the descents being so abrupt, that the waggons ran down on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:the animals, even though double locked in the rough.  We found the smith at home, in a very comfortable dwelling, with an excellent forge, established in Mission Creek, which flows through, and is fed by the seepage of those hills.  Mr. Monday was surrounded with most of the comforts and necessaries of life; plenty of fine stock, abundance of fowl, excellent tillage, well-cropped gardens, and an illimitable scope of the finest grazing land.  There were several Indians lounging about the premises and fiddling in the forge when we arrived; but none of them appeared to require the smith's services at that particular time, which led me to suppose we would have our job done off hand; however, Mr. Monday told me he durst not work for any but the Indians, unless by special leave from the States' agent, or the Indian appointed in that capacity by the tribe--rather a disagreeable piece of information, as the one was wholly inaccessible, and the other so very remote, that it would require two days to hunt him up.  Monday, however, gave us permission to use his forge; and, though none of us ever attempted anything of the kind, we had no alternative but try; and we had actually commenced hammering out straps for the fractured tongue, when, to our great delight, the Indian chief was descried riding up.  Monday stated our mishap to him; and, before he arrived, suggested the policy of a propitiative present; in compliance with which, I offered his highness a handsome sheath-knife, which he was graciously pleased to accept, telling Mr. Monday to inform us, "that, as we were travellers going on a journey beyond <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The trading post is a small hamlet, composed of some half-dozen shops, and a little straggling suburb of wigwams.  The shops are kept by white men, licensed to supply the Indians around with the flimsy, fantastic, and trumpery articles they require; liquor being specially interdicted, and very properly so.  But the same kindly solicitude that prohibits the sale of spirits, should take some measures to protect those unsophisticated people from the gross extortion, the vile imposition, practised on them in those establishments, into which the whole of the Indian pension money finds its way.  Gaudy patterns of flimsy calico rating as high as the richest satin; saddles, bridles, and spurs, of the very commonest kind, fetching a higher price than padded quilted articles of the same manufacture; and beads, rings, whistles, and little looking-glasses, all selling in the same ratio.  They give them out on credit till the quarter-day comes round, when the poor Indian punctually hands over his pension to those unconscionable harpies.</P>
053.sgm:<P>There are not many Indians living immediately at the trading-post; but the day after we came to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Early the following morning we discharged our tender-waggon, dividing the corn that remained equally amongst our own five, and moved down close to the bank of the river, which is here over one hundred yards wide, tolerably deep, and flowing with a rapid current.  One of the white traders, in anticipation of the emigration, having built what they call a skow, a large flat-bottomed boat, capable of carrying a waggon loaded, together with the team--a very unwieldy craft, propelled with long poles and clumsy oars, we chartered her for the occasion rather than run the risk of fording.  The crossing entailed a vast deal of trouble and labour, first in getting the mules and waggons on board, then hauling the boat up stream near half a mile, to a point where the current, taking a shoot to the opposite shore, the painter was cast off, and she was swept <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We proceeded from the river a few miles up the valley of the Kansas, encamping on a quick clear stream, where we caught some fish.  It is impossible to conceive a more lovely valley, lying between the river and a range of green grassy hills of most pleasing configuration, on whose brows myriads of delicate flowers, attracted by the genial smiles of spring, were peeping up amidst the sprouting herbage, with groves and clumps of timber budding into foliage, and blossoming shrubs skirting the plain along the stream, making it look like a favourite resting-place of nature, where I felt I could bury all aspirations of ambition, and, taking a long farewell of the busy world, spend the remainder of my days in sequestered happiness.  And as, yielding to this blissful feeling, I lay down outside my tent on my prairie bed, gazing on the spangled canopy, which hung on high like a celestial chandelier in the heaven of heavens , the vastness of creation, and the omnipotence of the Almighty, filled my mind with a holy, reverential awe--a sweet transport of devotional meditation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There is a French Catholic mission at the extremity of the vale-- the most advanced post of Christianity on the prairie--where the worthy minister has established a school in the little log chapel; and as I entered I found him in the midst of his half-tamed scholars, labouring to impart the blessings of education, with a fervid zeal emanating from the purest sources of philantrophy, without any worldly incentive to feed it, or any reward but the consolations of a happy conscience.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Another obstacle to our progress presented itself here, in an immense tree, which was blown down in a deep gully that crossed our path, just in the place where the crossing was easiest.  Its great size forbade any attempt at removing it, so we set all hands to work with spades and shovels, cutting an incline in each bank, which we accomplished much sooner than I expected, the deep rich black loam having neither a rock or stone commingled with it, being dug into like a turf bank.  We also cut down some middle-sized trees to fill it up, as it was so narrow at the bottom the waggon perches would be in danger of breaking.  From this we had five or six miles of very bad travelling, over a half-dried morass, the wheels frequently cutting through the sod to the axles; we managed, however, to pull through, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>As we were now drawing close to the confines of the Pawnee nation--a tribe notorious for their adroitness it thieving--I caused the animals to be picketed compactly, in order that the guard could watch them more securely--a precaution opportunely adopted, for in the middle of the night we were all aroused by the sharp crack of a rifle, discharged after two of those savages, who crawled on their bellies in amongst the mules, and cutting two of the lariats, were in the act of leading them off, when the uneasiness of the remainder brought one of the guard to the spot in time to prevent the theft.  He only got a glance at the Indians as they plunged into the thicket, but fired after them, with what effect we had no means of judging.  We saw several rattlesnakes about our camp in the morning, and killed two of a very large size.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We nooned next day at the Vermilion, a good sized stream, running over a red sandstone bottom, that imparts the appearance of a reddish hue to its waters, from which I suppose it derives its name, though in reality the water is as clear as crystal.  Having made it a point whenever I met any person who could talk English or make intelligible signs, to get all the information I could respecting our route; and in answer to my inquiries at the mission, being given to understand that from the Vermilion to the Blue we would not find either wood or water; I prudentially gave <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We here shot several birds, most exactly resembling our own woodcock in size, plumage, and conformation; in fact, there was no traceable dissimilarity, nor, according to my palatal reminiscences, was there any difference of taste in the flesh; but the haunts and habits of the bird, associating in flocks on a naked plain, in the warm season, was so totally different from the woodcock, I could not believe in the identity.  No one can appreciate the luxury of fresh meat so well as he that has been for weeks on salt rations; and believe me I enjoyed my modicum of the game, with a most relishable <HI REND="italics">gou&circ;t</HI>
053.sgm:<P>At sunrise next morning we were all astir, and had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:breakfast disposed of, in order to be in time at the "Big Blue" (a large river), and cross it before dark.  It is laid down by explorers as thirteen miles from the Vermilion, leaving it, by computation, seven from our camping-ground.  We started early, and travelled steadily for three hours, making, according to our average of two and one-half miles an hour, some eight miles, when we met a lively limpid stream, shaded by fine elms and sycamore-trees; but its dimensions forbade the idea of its being the "Big Blue;" so we continued our course, constantly expecting to see indications of a large river ahead.  The country all around was bleak and naked, high, rolling, unburnt prairie; but we persevered until the sun's course and our poor animals were near run down, without discovering the slighest appearance of it; and although I sent out our horsemen in different directions in quest of camping-ground, they were unable to find any better than a green stagnant pool, round the margin of which there was a dry coarse grass, that made sufficient fire to boil our coffee, those who were under the control of appetite being obliged to eat their bacon raw.  We skimmed off the slime from the water, and strained the dirty fluid through the tail of a waggon-sheet, which cleansed it somewhat; but it still retained an abominable vegetable taste, which we endeavoured to smother by putting in an extra quantity of coffee.  After helping ourselves we let the animals take their turn, and, by the time they had done, the stuff left was of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>In calling over the roll in the evening, we were all alarmed at the absence of one of the party, who did not answer to his name, or return the signal of a gun-shot.  No one could tell the cause of his leaving camp, nor could I clearly ascertain if he came up with the train.  Having no wood to light fires for his guidance, our only alternative was to sally out in various directions, hallooing and firing to attract his attention; and after two hours' search, he was found at a long distance from camp; but as the party that met him could not communicate their good fortune to the others, they continued their search until morning, being, in reality, unable to find their own way back to quarters until the sun got up, and even then not without great trouble, so difficult is it to make one's way to any particular point without any landmark to guide you in those interminable plains.  The cause of all this trouble and anxiety followed a pack of prairie hens until he lost his reckoning, and then getting confounded and alarmed as darkness closed upon him, set off at a brisk pace, turning his back on the place he wished to gain.  I was more annoyed at the occurrence, as most of the party were so fagged they were badly able to travel, without even the comfort of a good breakfast after their night's fatigue; but the inhospitable region where we were constrained us to push on in search of better quarters.  I gave directions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Second Start for the "Big Blue"--Prairie on Fire--Frightful Appearance impossible to describe--Indian Camp--Abundance of Fish-- Jokes about the "Blue"--Dry Weather--Council--Dreadful Thunderstorm--Glorious Dawn--Beautiful Basin--Wolf Chase, and extraordinary Accident--The real "Big Blue" at last--Most melancholy Occurrence--Reflections on the sad Event--Commencement of the Musquito Nuisance--Fertile Neighbourhood--Lay by a Day--Hurricane--Wild Turkey Chase--Number of Rattlesnakes--Our Fears of them--Missing Horses found--Indications of Buffalo--May Morning Thoughts of Home--Lovely Landscape--Quantity of Plover--One of the Party bit by a Snake--Bad Camping-Ground--Sudden Change of Temperature--Indian Wigwams--Their Shyness a bad Augury of their Intentions--Supposed Attack--Indians watching us--Surprise them--Slight Skirmish--Fish and Fowl plenty-- Wagtails Enemies to Constipation--Navicular Disease, how guarded against.</P>
053.sgm:<P>IT was late before we started, but we made certain the river ran on the other side of a range of barren hills, about eight miles distant; it took us three hours to gain their summit, from which we had an extensive view, without, however, any sign or symptom of the "Big Blue," as far as the eye could penetrate into the distance; so I reluctantly came to the conclusion that the river we passed last evening was the one in question, but that we struck at a different point from others, whose estimate of distances confounded us.  We observed from this eminence a dusky appearance in front, but were unable to determine at the time whether it was smoke <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:or a low black cloud; however, as we approximated, our doubts were soon resolved; it was smoke emanating from a prairie on fire right in our track, the flames travelling rapidly towards us, with a favourable breeze.  I immediately ordered the prairie to leeward of us to be fired in several places, and the bell-mare to be caught, who with the loose animals were betraying symptoms of alarm, that I feared would cause them to stampede; meanwhile the fire came down upon us, roaring, extending north and south about three miles, presenting a grand, but terrific spectacle.  The next move was to get the waggons into the space cleared by our own fire, and make the mules and horses firmly fast to the wheels.  The smoke came drifting before the flames in dense hot wreaths as we secured the lariats,<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
053.sgm: the animals snorting and shaking with dread; and some of them rearing in affright, and breaking the tyings, bolted away wildly, until they overtook the flames behind them, when they rushed frantically back, plunging in amongst those that remained.  The heat now became excessively uncomfortable, for our line was not over fifteen yards from the edge of the unburnt grass to windward, and we could not back the waggons without loosening the animals.  As the devouring element came closer, burning wisps were carried in the air, endangering our waggon covers and the powder-casks; but the heat became so intense we were forced to leave them to their fate, and prostrate ourselves, the smoke now gleaming with a murky <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">Long halters.</NOTE>
053.sgm:<P>It behoved us now to be on the alert, as but a few hours of of the day remained, and, from the course of the fire, we could not expect to find any pasture for several miles; we therefore pushed along at a double-quick pace, until we descried a belt of timber on an apparently level plain, without hills or bluffs that would indicate a large river, where we found a stream of considerable size, with water the clearest I ever remember to have seen, even in a still well, and swarmed with fish, which we could see as plainly as birds in the air, darting about as we went into the ford.  There were marks of a recent Indian encampment on the banks, at which no doubt the fire originated, for the prairie was burned just to that point, and no further.  We formed ours on the opposite bank, and had a glorious fish repast on shad and catfish, which I eat for the first time, and found them excellent.  Having caught as many at a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Since our first night's drenching on "Bull Creek," when we devoutly anathematised hail, rain, and sleet, we had not a shower or shade of lowering weather; but, like all capricious mortals, we had been heaving pluvial sighs for the last few days, which at long last attracted the sympathy of the elements, and brought down copious tears of compassion on our bereavement.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Before retiring to our buffalo robes, all assembled in my tent to examine the vacuous map of those regions, and ascertain the probable distance to the Platte, as well as shape our course, and agree upon camping points.  While thus engaged, the rain pattered more heavily on the canvas, and at intervals a low growling of distant thunder came along like a mighty piece of ordnance in the heavens, rumbling louder and louder as it approximated, until it exploded with a bursting crash above our heads, that promptly broke up our council of travel.  Brilliant coruscations from above flashing through the tent-cloth, betwixt the discharges paling the weak light <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>A most delightful morning succeeded, and all nature seemed refreshed from the rain; the plains clothed with a delicious verdure, the lovely flowrets expanding their virgin bosoms, and emitting their fragrance in the balmy air, the sod beautifully elastic for travelling, and even the animals, I thought, looking sleek and glossy.  We had breakfast over, our waggons greased, and teams tackled by seven o'clock, and set out, as we thought, in quest of another river, the course of which is more accurately laid down than the "Blue."  After travelling about eight miles, we came to a pebbly brook, flowing through a basin of the richest land we met yet, not even excepting the fertile valley of the Kansas, its velvet carpet decked out in a most gorgeous garniture of floral beauty.  The larkspur, the wild pink verbena, the wild blue bean, and various others strange to me.  I looked about for the familiar primrose, but it was nowhere to be found; nor do I think it might have hidden its head amongst any of its foreign competitors, whose sweet perfume was overmatched by the pungent odours of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:wild onion, which I met frequently before, but never in such quantity or maturity.  We gathered a large quantity, which gave an agreeable relish to our standing dish, and were productive of other effects of a desirable nature in our long vegetable abstinence.  In going up the hill, I observed an animal stealing away in the long grass that bordered the brooks, and taking an off-hand rifle crack at him, materially quickened his pace, and extracted a sample of his vocalism.  It turned out to be a wolf; and seeing, by his going lame, that he was wounded, all the horsemen gave chase, running him so close that they kept peppering him with their revolvers until they brought him down; but, in the careless eagerness of the chase, a misdirected or rebounding ball struck the nose of one of the horses, who made so sudden a curve that he unseated his rider, Mr. J--y, one of the most timid of our party, who was always holding forth about Indian surprises and ambuscades.  A wag amongst the lot, seeing him fall, raised the shout of "Indians--Indians," and headed a retreat to the waggons at a furious pace, leaving my little friend "alone in his glory;" but, fearing the alarm might prove too serious a shock for his nerves, I went back to his relief, cantering up the rise to meet or hail him; however, he was nowhere to be seen.  I then galloped across to the opposite hill, from which I had an extensive reconnoissance; but still he was not within view.  I next made the horsemen scatter about, returning myself to the dead wolf, the place at which the accident occurred, and shouted lustily, the horsemen joining in the call at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:top of their lungs, without eliciting a response or appearance.  I now began to feel somewhat nervous; but knowing from the time, distance, and expansive view, he could not have been carried off by Indians, I ordered and commenced a close search, which, considering that the herbage was short, and little or no cover for hiding, I felt assured would bring him to light; in fact, there was no place for concealment but a dry gully, about two feet and a half deep, bare of either reed or brushwood.  Up this I rode without discovering a trace, when I became exceedingly puzzled and uncomfortable.  On returning, however, I observed a fresh break in the surface, which I dismounted to examine, one of my companions observing it occurred in the chase; but not seeing any horse track near it, I stooped to scrutinise it closely, and conceived I saw a sort of pulsation, upon which I gave the long sod a drag, and down came about seven feet of a strip, revealing our missing friend, in a most pitiable plight.  As soon as he recovered, he told us, believing the alarm to be genuine, he thought escape on foot beyond hope, and seeing the overhanging bank in the gully, he crawled under it, but giving its edge a pull the more effectually to perfect his concealment, he brought down a fleak more than his strength was able to remove, and would have been smothered if there had been any loose earth or sand attached to it.  At times, he said, he heard the muffled sound of voices, but could not distinguish whether they were Indians or not; and such was his veneration for his scalp, he preferred dying by the slow process of suffocation, rather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We ascended from the basin to a high, undulating prairie, where there was a fine crop of upland grass, the first we met with.  The soil was lighter than I had before seen, being only a few inches deep, on a dark flint-stone stratum, which occasionally peeped through the surface, like the limestone tracts in the west of Ireland. We had not travelled far before I saw a range of timbered bluffs, and soon perceived a large valley, thickly wooded with maple, cotton wood, elm, oak, and sycamore.  This I set down as the camping-ground fifteen miles from the "Blue," and cantered ahead to select a location for our night's lodging, when, lo! and behold, I came to a real veritable river, and no mistake, larger than the aggregate of all the creeks and streams we had passed.  As the train came up "we looked each other's faces round," and from the prevailing complexion I saw we all tacitly acquiesced in the conviction that at long last we had arrived at the "Big Blue," though many, many miles west of the postion assigned it.  It was a formidable stream to cross as well from its width as rapidity, but the in and out was tolerably easy.  I rode on to take soundings, and select the shoalest ford, but only proceeded a few lengths when I got fairly aswim, and my horse, wheeling round with the current, went over on his beam ends, giving me a regular souse and a great start, as for an instant one of my feet caught <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Making certain from what occurred that the water would reach our waggon beds, and damage the provision, those attached to the leading one commenced unloading, to place on the top what was most susceptible of injury, when, melancholy to relate, a fine young fellow, John Coulter, in drawing out a loaded gun by the muzzle, brought the cock sharply in contact with a box, which caused it to explode, sending thirteen buck-shot clean through his body, instant death ensuing.  The gloom that overspread us all was greater, I imagine, than if he met his fate in the haunts of civilisation, where a Christian burial would consign his remains to consecrated ground.  But we dug his lonely grave beside a large elm close to the spot where he fell, and with uncovered heads and tearful eyes lowered his rude coffin into its isolated resting-place, carving his epitaph on the bark of the tree that overshadowed this tomb of the wilderness.  What rendered reflection more distressing was, that we afterwards discovered a ford that superseded the necessity of any alteration in the loading.</P>
053.sgm:<P>After a short but mournful pause, we commenced the passage, which was attended with considerable danger and difficulty; however, we got over without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:damage or accident.  One small lead-span in the third waggon got afloat, and for a moment looked as if they would be hurried into the deep below them; but, like good-' <HI REND="italics">uns</HI>
053.sgm:<P>Our camp to-night was close beside a grove, which appeared to be the head-quarters of the mosquito tribe, for they hummed and buzzed in myriads about us, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Next day we lay by, our animals luxuriating in fine pasture, and ourselves enjoying rich treats of shad and catfish, together with wild ducks and parroquets, which were very abundant.  We saw some deer bounding through the brakes, but could not manage to get within range of them.  There were great quantities of the Indian or prairie potato about; a small but highly farinaceous esculent, too sweet for most of our palates.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The wind during the evening was very high, but resembled a hot blast in its temperature--so much so, that the first guard turned out unmuffled, the others retiring to rest without any covering whatsoever.  About ten o'clock, however, strange meteoric appearances began to present themselves in the north--the opposite point to that from which the wind was blowing--gradually becoming more wide-spread and livid; when suddenly a small black speck emerged from the horizon, and, with the quickness of thought, the wind ran round to that quarter, increasing to a perfect hurricane, blowing down the tents, scattering hats, pots, kettles, blankets, and buffalo robes over the plain, tearing one of the waggon covers into shreds, and turning one clean over; while the embers and the coals carried about set fire to the underwood, which soon spread into a lake of flame, engaging several large decaying trees in the conflagration.  It was a terrific sight, and so affrighted the stock, that most of them pulled up their picket-pins, galloping about, snorting and puffing, and keeping us busily engaged until daylight in looking after them.  After morning broke, it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It was afternoon before the gale abated sufficiently to admit of travelling, and there was nothing of variety in the scenery, nor incident worth recording, unless it was a turkey chase, in which a fine bird was fairly run down.  This bird, particularly when fat, cannot rise on the wing more than once, and then only for a short flight; but they make excellent use of their shanks, which are very lengthy, for by the time the one in question was caught, its pursuers were nearly piped out.  It proved to be in very different condition from that shot on the Missouri, and as delicate as it was fat.</P>
053.sgm:<P>About twelve miles from the Blue we came to a nameless creek of most inviting aspect, so far as ourselves were concerned; but as there was no grass, the district around being recently burned, we pushed on a few miles further, where, on the contrary, the pasture was abundant, but the wood and water remote.  I shot a brace of prairie snipe, which, though out of season, were very much in place, and in the course of the evening we killed three large rattlesnakes, of the most poisonous genus, quite close to our tents, which begat a nervousness lest some other members of that family should pay us a visit in our slumbers.  There were several plants of the cactus, or prickly pear, about here, of a size that would make our home horticulturists stare, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>After taking a cast about, we hit on the track of the horses towards the water, where we made sure of finding them; in which we were disappointed, and began to entertain fears that the Indians had got hold of them.  But riding a few miles further to where I saw some timber, I joyfully descried the missing steeds, enjoying themselves in a magnificent pasturage; but by the time I got with them back to camp it was close upon noon, and as it was the second morning after one entire day's rest that we had a late start, I resolved on travelling till sundown, approaching which time we fortunately came to a clear, well-timbered brook.  The country all day was of a level, monotonous character, without a feature of interest to call for observation.</P>
053.sgm:<P>For the first time we thought we here discovered symptoms of buffalo, which put us all on the qui-vive; some longing for the sport and novelty of the chase, and others talking in juicy accents of the luxury of a fine hump-steak.  Our fires at night attracted some elk, bringing them within range; but as they were in line with the animals we durst not fire.  At daylight we saw another herd crossing a ridge of rising ground, and three of our horsemen started in pursuit; however, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>May morning opened calm and cloudless; and as I looked around on the measureless tracts of old withered grass, unbroken by any striking object, unenlivened by any living thing, I thought of home, with its green lanes and hedge-rows of blossoming white thorn evaporating its dew-distilled perfume in the rising sun, and the weedless crops, and the shamrock-coated fields, and the frisking lambs and the woodland choristers; but the cracking of the teamsters' whips as they started recalled me from this agreeable reverie, directing my attention into a widely different channel.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The country to-day was more rolling, with a tendency upwards, until we attained a considerable elevation, which commanded a charming prospect, more diversified with wood and water than any I had yet seen, relieving the wearied eye with its pleasing verdure.  Knolls of gigantic dimensions, covered with fine timber in young foliage, being irregularly scattered over the plain, which was intersected with numbers of streamlets, all tributaries of the "Little Blue;" clumps of trees standing here and there in the different angles formed by their courses, all it required to complete its pastoral charms being the flocks and herds, and the neat, but upretending cottage of the shepherd peeping from the shady grove.  As we crossed the last of those rivulets, we let all the animals, in and out of harness, drink their fill, and took in a supply of wood and water, so that we could stop <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>A stand of prairie plover most opportunely made their appearance as we pulled up, all the tamer from the dim light, who were received by a simultaneous volley of balls and shot, that brought down as many as thirteen brace.  They were in splendid condition--a size bigger than our plover, and a shade browner in plumage, but otherwise strictly alike.  There were also indications which we set down as proofs of buffalo being in the neighbourhood, which kept us on the alert and look-out, some of the over-sanguine transforming every dark object into one of those animals; and, sooth to say, I do believe, when the mind is satiated in contemplating an unvarying sameness for several days, that it is more plastic, and prone to be the slave of our desires.  We also discovered tracks of not quite so agreeable a character--the mocassin prints of a party of Indians, that must have recently crossed the dried-up bed of a neighbouring stream, which caused us for the first time to entertain positive apprehensions for the safety of our animals.  One of our party got bit by a rattlesnake this evening; but, having a huge pair of stout leather boots, the fangs did not penetrate to the flesh.  They, as well as large lizards, were very plentiful about our camp, but we were latterly becoming so used to them, we lost all apprehension about their entering our tents in the night.  Not so the musquitoes, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Next day's course was over a dreadfully hilly country, unadorned by bush or bramble; it was nothing but lock and unlock every half mile till noon, when we descended upon a level, bleak, unburt prairie, which in its dry and withered clothing of last year's grass had a most disagreeable aspect.  We met no water since our start, and both men and animals were suffering from thirst; but, after travelling some miles further, one of the buffalo maniacs discovered some pools of stagnant stuff at right angles with our trail.  Neverthless we diverged in obedience to that despotic appetite, and found the green water absolutely alive with wagtails, as those piscious animalcul&aelig; are called; however, like the modern painters, not being over particular as to a shade or so, we drank it with avidity, though the mules sucked it in slowly, as if they filtered it through their teeth.  Had we travelled on a mile further, we would have got a grateful drink of cool, pellucid water; but there is yet no hand-book of those unfrequented trails by which the wayfarer can time his wants.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Before us, in the distance, was a line of high land, that we knew must be the dividing ridge, beyond which the drainage tended to the "Little Blue," which, unlike its larger namesake, did not deceive us or evade our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:quest.  Near the point where we struck it, three tributaries joined it from different directions, emerging in noisy haste from their umbrageous banks, and forming a most pleasing spectacle.  We travelled the remainder of the day close along it, amidst fragrant groves of wild plums in full blossom, the temperature so warm we discarded vests and neck-ties; but about five o'clock, with the rapidity of a magician's presto, the sun was blown out by a cold, drear south-east squall, and, ere we could get our coats from the waggons, we were thoroughly drenched, the drops being so large as to scare the mules, who, maugre all our efforts, turned right round until they got their sterns to the gale; the rain soon cleared off, but the cold continued at a chattering temperature.  We stopped at the first sheltered bend, and found about a dozen wigwams, empty, but nearly warm, they were so lately occupied.  This, to use a Yankee vulgarism, made us "keep our eyes skinned," as there was no doubt the wily Pawnee thief was in the neighbourhood.  The storm continued unabated throughout the night and next morning; but, as all the grass about was clipped close, we were compelled to move on.  Very soon after our start we came upon the remains of a very large Indian encampment, which it was evident was hastily vacated, and that, too, within eight or ten hours, as, in many of the heaps of ashes, the embers were still alive.  From the number of cotton-wood trees cut down, they must have had a number of horses, and purposed remaining there a considerable time, for those hardy animals--the Indian ponies--subsist on the soft milky <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>This coy conduct of the Indians was an unfavourable augury of their intentions; for, if disposed to be friendly, they come to camp to trade or beg, and travel with the party perhaps for many miles, from motives of curiosity, or looking out for opportunities to steal.  I therefore conceived it prudent to have all the arms looked up and loaded, ordering each man but the drivers to carry his full complement, and all spare guns to be laid in the most convenient positions in the front of the waggons, for, as our route lay up a narrow strip, with the river on one hand and a range of bluffs on the other, it looked a favourable district for a surprise.  Two men rode ahead to reconnoitre, two more brought up the rear, the balance being along the waggons.  We proceeded thus for some time in silence, when the crack of a rifle from the advanced party led us to suppose the affray had commenced.  Every man now handed and cocked his rifle; and as we rounded an angle of planting, in close column, we saw the horsemen dismounted, stooping over a prostrate body, which, however, to our great gratification, turned out to be the carcase of a fine deer, which was hastily cut up and equally distributed.  As we proceeded, I remarked two dark objects over the ridge, about the size of men's heads; and seeing them moving occasionally, I suspected they were Indian spies; a surmise which the glass confirmed.  There was no use in endeavouring to steal on them, for all our motions were easily <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>This emboldened the Indians, who began to approach, discharging a few arrows at long range, which came rather accurately; but over sixty yards they can be easily dodged, as they lose their impetus beyond that distance.  I was apprehensive, though, lest our horses should get wounded, not knowing but their arrows were poisoned; and as they persisted in coming closer, we fired two shots, taking deliberate aim at the one appearing most like the chief: they went off with a single report, one taking effect somewhere about the pony's head, and the other in the bridle-arm of the rider, which soon altered their course, causing them to fly with great precipitancy, occasionally looking round to see if we pursued.  My horse could not be extricated without getting ropes and help from the waggons, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We employed the remainder of the evening profitably as well as pleasurably, killing catfish in great quantity; and in the morning were gratified at finding all our night-hooks tenanted, affording us quite an epicurean breakfast.  Amongst the fish on the night-hooks was a species of pike, called pickeril, which has a vast advantage over its relative, both in flavour and paucity of bones.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We still continued our course, with the river close under our lee, plover becoming so abundant, we were gladly enabled to give the salt junk a holiday, which contributed to improve our health and spirits.  After a few hours' travel we diverged from the "Blue," which took a sharp southerly sweep, and moored at a large flash of water, round which there was glorious feed; but the liquid was green, and full of wagtails: we were partly reconciled to its use, however, hearing that those little mites were active enemies to constipation, a malady then troubling the majority of the company.  Two of the waggons here began to exhibit the effects of travel, in loose tires; but this was soon rectified, more uneasiness arising from the lameness of two of our best wheel mules, who appeared footsore for the last few days, and now began to limp outright; but on taking up their fore-feet, I found them panged with hard tough clay, in lumps, as horses gather snowballs, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Mirage--"Little Blue" again--Rainstorm--Appearance of the Camp--Delightful Scenery--Reflections--Observance of the Sabbath--Fresh-water Turtle--Indians take the shape of Wolves--Kill an Antelope--Visit of the Pawnees--Their Appearance--Short Description of the Tribe--Their mode of Trading--Ugly Women--Pelican--Bluffs of the Platte-Saline Efflorescenses--Grand Island--Dig for Water--Musquitoes again--Their pertinacity--Novel Wager--Fort Kearney--American Soldiers--Profitable price of Whisky--Battle ground of the Sioux and Pawnees--Seagulls Inland--Hurricane and Thunderstorm--Stampede--Disagreeable Night--More Crystalised Incrustations--Prairie Dog Town--Appearance and Habits of the Animal--Accident to the Mules--Use of Lariats--Scarcity of Firewood--Unerring Signs of Buffalo--Amazing size of the Herds--Ineffectual Attempt to cross the Platte after them. WE SAW to-day the celebrated optical illusion called mirage, so often seen and described by travellers over deserts and extensive plains.  It was so wonderfully well defined, and in such apparent proximity, resembling a large grove of majestic trees in full foliage, that if it arose in advance, and not exactly in the track over which we passed a little before, I would have been actually deceived in the full and perfect belief of their reality.  Now and then a change took place in their postures, and again in their density, openings occurring in which the glassy surface of a lake would appear, reflecting on its polished bosom the surrounding timber, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:while on its distant shores the hazy outlines of a large city were spread out, taking the shape of massive buildings, domes, and steeples.  It remained perceptible in its various phases for fully a quarter of an hour, and some of the party were so obstinate in their convictions as to its being a <HI REND="italics">bona&circ; fide</HI>
053.sgm:<P>Towards evening we came across our old acquaintance the "Little Blue," where we camped in a delightful dell.  The water so quickly shoaling, that no large fish came to repay our patience; we were consoled, though, by a fresh supply of plover.  The evening closed so mildly none of us took the trouble of erecting our tents, spreading our bedding on the velvet carpet, with our heads pillowed on the scented flowers; but towards morning, as it came to my turn to mount guard, it came down a regular soaker, falling in perpendicular torrents, without a breath of air to slant it; yet the men were not much disturbed by it, sleeping on heroically, merely pulling in their heads under the blankets as the great drops plashed upon their faces.  When the sun shone out shortly after, I could not help gazing on the different couches, which smoked like melon-beds in its warm rays; nevertheless, they all arose healthy, cheerful, and hungry.</P>
053.sgm:<P>As we rolled along next day we got into a most gorgeous valley, where we saw several new varieties of floral beauties, amongst which I recognised the daisy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It was the Sabbath morning, but, being composed of different sects, any joint observance of that holy day was not enforced, each being left to commune with his Creator in what form of prayer he listed.  The scarcity of grass disabled us from making it a day of rest; however, it was agreed that hunting, fishing, or such like amusements should be abstained from on all Sundays for the future--the smallest tribute we could pay to the Deity for the indulgence and protection deigned us in our trying undertaking.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Elk, antelope, and deer, were now more frequently seen, and by the aid of the glass the Indians were again <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>From the proximity of the Indians, we took our loaded rifles to bed with us, everything going smooth to the third watch, when the report of a gun aroused us all.  Some Indians, it appeared, got in amongst the animals in the shape of wolves, the bark of which animal they can simulate to perfection, so as to deceive even old trappers, going all fours as fast as in an upright position.  They cut four of the mules loose and mounted them, calculating correctly we would not fire for fear of shooting the animals; but the guards got on a pair of horses and gave chase, when they instantly relinquished them and ran off.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Very early next morning we were "a rollin," as the Yankee teamsters say, and got upon a dead level prairie of withering grass; but about mid-day the country became hilly and broken, abounding with antelope, who, contrary to their usual custom, came so close we were enabled to shoot two of them; and as we were engaged in skinning and disembowelling them, three Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:came up from behind a hill, quite unceremoniously, all smiles and bows, as if they were sure of a kind reception; but I had to beckon them away, as the mules became frightened at the fluttering of their buffalo robes and their novel appearance.  One of them was a tall, well-proportioned fellow, not ill-looking, carrying an old flint carabine, spliced and cobbled, and so worn down in the barrel, it was, in my mind, a more dangerous weapon to the person holding it than to him at whom it might be presented; the others were dirty, repulsive-looking wretches, with bows and arrows, making gestures as if for something to eat; but being resolved not to give them any encouragement, we denied them a morsel, as they would otherwise accompany us, keeping round our camp, and stealing everything they could lay hands on.  We did this as graciously as we could, giving them to understand that, as our journey was away beyond the great mountains, we required all we had for our own use.  Shortly after, he carrying the carabine started off at a rapid rate to an eminence nearly a mile in advance, making signs that brought to view about fifty more, as quickly as Roderick Dhu's warriors rose from the heather of Clan Alpine, who, throwing their robes upon the ground, ran off in a lateral direction towards a dip of ground, where they were lost to sight, as I imagined for their arms, to avenge their wounded comrade, and pay us off for our inhospitable treatment; on their reappearance, however, we saw that they were carrying skins, and robes, and one thing and another for trade.  They first tried to steal, and were foiled; they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>This tribe (the Pawnees) were once amongst the most numerous and powerful on the whole Indian territory, with an immense extent of country; but in their conflicts with the Camanches on the south, the Sioux on the north and west, and the Delawares and Shawnees on the border, their numbers became seriously thinned, the ancient prestige of their supremacy vanishing at the same time; and as their power and influence decayed, the debasing spirit of theft and treachery grew up amongst them, banishing every trace of that innate nobleness and chivalry which is still to be found in the Indian race, making the terms Pawnee and thief synonymous, and degrading the tribes almost to a level with the Digger, who is considered to be in the lowest scale of the entire Indian family.</P>
053.sgm:<P>As soon as I was satisfied of their intentions I went out to meet them, making signs that they could not come near the waggons, as the animals were restless.  Taking the hint, they opened out their wares where they stood, which merely consisted of buffalo robes, dingy and smoky, and some tawned deer-skins.  We took all they had of the latter, as they were certain to come in handy in repairing harness, giving them some biscuit in exchange, but declined having anything to do with the buffalo robes, having no desire to add to the members of our company, for they actually seemed alive with vermin.  I was in expectation of getting a few pair of mocassins, but they had none save those on their feet.  There was one old fellow who had a tolerable good pair, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:at which I cast some side glances, not so furtive, however, as to escape the notice of the wearer, who, observing that I desired them, made most amusing efforts to impress me with their value and usefulness.  He shook his head most disdainfully, pointing at my boots; then walked off some distance in a most stately gait, nodding at his mocassins, as much as to say they would not cripple my action; he then passed one palm over the other, arching his arm, by which I was to understand they would carry me over the mountains; and we finally came to terms for those famous articles for a small piece of tobacco.  Several amongst them were deeply scarred and pitted with small-pox; in fact, taking them as a lot, they were as dirty and wretched a sample of humanity as could well be found, my gallantry not even enabling me to hold out for an individual exception amongst the softer sex, several of whom came up in the progress of the traffic, carrying their monkey-looking pappooses<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
053.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">Pappoose means a young child.</NOTE>
053.sgm:<P>Mirage was again announced, taking the form of hills and broken ground, with a wavy indistinct outline, rising and subsiding at times like great banks of vapour.  I was of opinion that they possibly might be bluffs along the Platte, which river we expected to make that evening; but my conjecture was no match for the active imaginations of my comrades, who discovered all sorts of preternatural appearances.  Meanwhile, as we steadily approached them, the hazy veil disappeared, revealing a range of elevated hills stretching north and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There was a natural gap in the hills, through which we drove on to a perfectly level plain of about four miles, that intervened between them and the river, covered with white patches, which did not at first attract my attention particularly, till I observed some of the loose animals stooping and licking them with avidity; I then dismounted, and found they were crystallised incrustations of salt and soda.  As we neared the river, the surface was more thickly and continuously coated with those efflorescences, assuming quite the appearance of one unbroken crust.  It was high time to stop when we reached the bank of the Platte, but there was not a blade of grass.  We proceeded a few miles without any improvement in the prospect, and at last halted close by the river, at the tail of Grand Island, so called from its extending ninety miles, being, I believe, the largest river island in the universe.  It was well timbered with large willow and cotton-wood trees; but we had not a stick on the bank except the miserable drift brush which made a most wretched fire.  We killed an enormous snake, very handsomely striped, called, I believe, the garter snake; a harmless reptile, and not poisonous, which are very plentiful in this region.  The river is very large; wider than the Missouri in its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It is a dire but inexorable necessity that compels the poor prairie traveller to pitch his tent every evening in the neighbourhood of water, where, instead of finding rest, he finds the insatiable musquitoes awaiting him, who invariably put forth their entire powers of persecution, when, after the toils and fatigues of the day, his heavy eyelids begin to droop.  A "monster meeting" of those infernal insects were arrayed on this occasion, fighting, too, with poisoned javelins; for, no sooner was the wound inflicted, than a hard base, about the breadth of a fourpenny-bit, was formed, swelling considerably, with an irresistible itching, and becoming still more inflamed as we indulged in scratching, till water began to exude, and an ugly ulcer formed.  I never before suffered so unbearable an infliction, my forehead getting so sore and knobby, I could not bear my hat.  Had I been on a religious pilgrimage, I would certainly have concluded that all my little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Next day we proceeded up the valley of the Platte, which is perfectly level for some hundreds of miles, with just enough of incline to give the river its current.  After travelling briskly for some hours, we did not appear to have advanced a mile, so much is the unpractised eye deceived in surveying those interminable plains.  We reached Fort Kearney early in the evening-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We kept close along the river the following day, which was studded over with low sedgy islets, partaking nothing of the picturesque, being quite on a par in that respect with the naked bluffs on the other hand.  Towards noon we came to a place which had quite a Golgotha-like appearance, being thickly strewed over with bones and skulls, the results of Indian conflicts, as the valley of the Platte is the great battle-ground of the Sioux and Pawnees, both of which tribes, we were informed by some dragoons who came thus far with us from the fort in search of missing horses, were busily employed in preparing for an active summer's campaign--an event calculated to cause a stir in the price of vermilion and black paint, in both of which colours the warriors bedaub themselves in a most grotesque manner before marching to the encounter.  The dragoons told us we might expect to meet the war party of the Sioux on their way down; a pleasure we would have all very gladly declined, if possible.</P>
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053.sgm:<P>Flocks of seagulls, and what we call maybirds, a species of curlew, kept flying about us all day, and I was not a little surprised to find them far away from their element.  We had another sublime but terrific conflict of the elements in the evening, not confined to one quarter, but pervading the entire heavens.  It commenced by a portentous calm, that caused us all to listen intuitively, as if aware that something awful was approaching; black clouds soon after began rolling up from the edges of the horizon, accompanied with fitful squalls that almost rocked the waggons off their balance, and intermitting torrents that fell in large globules.  About eleven o'clock it again became sullenly calm, and the sky obscured with a jet-black curtain, which enveloped us in Cimmerian darkness; but at times a blaze of sheet lightning behind would throw a lurid gleam through, producing the grandest imaginable effect; and then, as if rent in pieces by prolonged peals of thunder, showers of electric fluid poured from the clouds, rendering the most minute objects momentarily visible, and enabling us to see that the majority of our mules had pulled up their pins and stampeded.  As soon as the fireworks got on the wane the waterworks commenced in real earnest, keeping up a striking analogy to Vauxhall; but as the loss of the mules would be disastrous in the last degree, we mounted all the saddle-horses which were tied up to the waggon wheels, and commenced a most novel but nervous chase, following up our frighted game by the aid of the lightning, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The saline efflorescences were again coated over the plain far and near, and the stock appeared to enjoy the licking of it more than the choicest feeding.  From this point the valley began to narrow, and became more interesting, the bluffs getting bolder, and sparsely covered with fine cedar; the vegetation, too, began to improve, rich clover and grasses, commingled with wild vetch, now forming its pod, making up an ollapodrida that must have been wonderfully nutritious.  In the course of the day we saw in the midst of the verdure a red arid space covering fifty acres, which was what trappers call a prairie dog village.  It was very thickly inhabited, but they treated us inhospitably, withdrawing into their domiciles as we entered the suburbs.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Our animals were regularly in clover this evening, the close pasture being ankle deep; but being thirsty, I suppose, from the salt licking, the moment we unharnessed them they ran off in a body to the river, and jumped in, soon sinking in the quicksand, and, in their floundering to extricate themselves, getting entangled in each other's ropes--the stronger plunging over the weaker, until, from utter exhaustion, they could struggle no longer.  Several of them had only their heads over the water, and were at a very low ebb; indeed, when we durst venture to their relief, it was a great risk to do so; but, as our all depended on them, the hazard should be undertaken.  Six of the party, therefore, went into the midst of them, cutting the ropes right and left; and such was their sagacity, knowing we came to their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Although we had not a chip of wood this evening, we had a capital substitute in buffalo chip (as their ordure is called), which makes roaring fires, and is the exclusive fire of the Indian tribes who live in their haunts; but as it will only burn when dry, you will see all the squaws employed in carrying it into their wigwams, on the approach of a rainstorm laying in a sufficient store to carry them over to the period when it will be again baked dry by the sun.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We made an early start next morning, and soon came into a district where there was not a blade of grass, a mite of herbage--not in consequence of backward vegetation, but of buffalo appetite, for they cropped it down to the earth.  We also found many other unerring proofs of their very recent presence in this quarter, in great quantities of their coating, sometimes in large flakes the size of a sheep's fleece, where they tumbled and wallowed.  It was of a soft yet tough nature, such as I am sure would make warm and most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>All morning as we came along we remarked, at a distance from the opposite bank of the river, a dark continuous line, that neither looked like timber nor broken ground; and as we stopped, fancying we observed some motion, I had recourse to the glass, by which I saw distinctly they were vast herds of buffalo, that, by the fresh tracks on our side, must have recently crossed over, after wasting the country around us.  The enormous extent on which they stood made a guess at their numbers almost impossible.  Two of our party, who were desirous to draw first blood, volunteered to go over, and made the necessary preparations, promising us hump-steaks and many other delicacies for supper, jumping in with great spirit and apparent determination; but they scarcely proceeded one hundred yards when their ardour seemed damped, for they kept looking back at the shore, as if in doubt about the prudence of proceeding, but ashamed to return, until at length a whirling eddy made them shy it altogether, returning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Shaved look of the Prairie--Speckled with Chip--Second Attempt at crossing--Successful, but attended with great Danger--Kill a Buffalo--Estimate of their Numbers--Prairie Wolves; their Sagacity--Narrow Escapes at Recrossing--"Misfortunes never come Single"--Crossing of the Buffalo--Flight of our Animals--Peculiarities of the Buffalo--Lie in wait for a Drove coming over the River--Shoot a Cow--Their Appearance at this Season--A November Robe the best--Gregarious Propensities--Interfere with the Progress of the Mexican Army--Buffalo Break--Meet a small Herd on our Path--Wound one--Account of the Chase--Nervous Affair--Mode of Preserving the Meat--Extraordinary Thickness of the Buffalo Skull--Test it by Rifle Practice--Our Camp--Obliged to Drive our Stock on an Island--Rain saturates the Chip and leaves us without Fire--Grumbling and Dissatisfaction of the Men--Some wish to Return--Persuaded to wait till we reach Fort Laramie--Buffalo Milk--Another Prairie Dog Town--Cheerless Landscape; effects on the Spirits--Sagacity of the Mule--Miss some of our Men, who appear in the Morning greatly knocked up. SEEING the herbage so cropped, and the ground completely speckled with buffalo chip, I sent three horsemen forward to search for night quarters, and, after following five or six miles, I found one of them waiting at another marshy spot, where, he said, from appearances two miles ahead, he would advise us to wait until the other two men returned; as they intended going the full length, it would be possible we could reach with the waggons.  We occupied ourselves, in the mean time, in watching the buffalo through the glass, which, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:we had travelled nine miles parallel with them, were one unbroken mass, even as far forward as we could see; the other men soon after returned with bad news, reporting the country, so far as they went (over eight miles), as totally devoid of feed, and still covered with chip.  I therefore passed the word to unhitch, and, as our halt was two hours earlier than usual, giving us four hours until sunset, it afforded sufficient time, as I thought, to make another attempt at crossing.  I now began to feel a twitch of ambition myself to make my de&acute;but as a buffalo-hunter, one of the old party and two new recruits avowing their readiness to join in the essay; so we four took soil, stripping off everything but our shirts and shoes, the river being here considerably over a mile and a half wide, and very rapid.  We got above our waists immediately near the shore, but, after wading fifteen or twenty yards, it began to shoal until we were not knee deep: the sand was very shifty, and the current rapid, making the footing very insecure and toilsome.  A few yards more brought us again into deep water, and thus it kept alternating from an ankle ripple to a chin-deep surge, the water being so muddy we could not discover the difference of depth.  We struggled on for half an hour without seeming to have made any palpable approximation to the opposite shore, our boots and shoes getting panged with sand and sharp gravel, crippled us very much, and caused such pain, we resolved on making an effort to get them off; but, as the shortest pause in the quicksand made us sink right down, it was a matter of extreme difficulty, especially <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:with me, who was the only wearer of boots.  I managed, however, to get one off, after some staggering; but in attempting to pull off the other I lost my balance, without fully effecting my purpose.  The suddenness of the souse, and my endeavours to keep my rifle dry, gave me quite enough to do; and when I got upright, I found my foot stuck in the leg of my boot, yet I durst not stop to get it out, though it impeded my motions dreadfully; at this moment one of my companions got into an eddy, and losing his presence of mind, shouted lustily, letting go his rifle, which he did not recover.  As I pressed forward to his assistance, I saw he drifted on to a shoal bar, where he again got to his legs, and was enabled to make a fresh start.  After an hour and twenty minutes, wading and floundering, we at length reached <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
053.sgm:<P>As we got fairly on our legs, absolute bewilderment got the better of our passion for the slaughter, for, as far as the eye could peer up and down, and inwards towards the bluffs, it was so closely covered with those animals that they had scarce room to feed, thousands of calves sporting before them.  I asked my comrades, all highly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We moved briskly forward, gaining half the intervening space before they appeared to observe us.  An old bull, who stood isolated in the front, was the first to alarm them, when he immediately commenced pawing the ground and bellowing, with several others following his example, until they raised a cloud of dust, under cover of which we advanced at a trot, getting within two hundred yards of the nearest, and simultaneously discharged our three rifles, at the report of which they broke, shaking the earth as they galloped away towards the bluffs.  When the dust cleared away we saw one behind, sitting with its fore-legs propping up the body.  Reloading leisurely, we gave her time to bleed and become enfeebled, so as to be disabled from attacking us, which a wounded buffalo is certain to do, if capable of moving.  As we drew nigh she struggled to her legs, bodly confronting us; but now, being inside fifty yards, I sent a ball into the fatal quarter, above the brisket, which brought her heavily to the ground.  As our time was limited, we hastily cut out the tongue, and, without attempting to strip off the hide, cut off a few humpsteaks, for we could not carry a heavy load over the river.</P>
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053.sgm:<P>The sun had nearly run its course as we began retracing our steps; nor had we gone far, when we saw a pack of prairie wolves in high repast on the carcase we had just left, for instinct teaches those animals to prowl about the flanks of large herds, whose sickly, aged, and wounded members fall to their lot in more than sufficient numbers to sustain them.  It was nearly dusk ere we regained the bank of the river, and I felt half-disposed, even naked as we were, to remain on that side till morning, the more particularly as the river was higher than when we crossed--caused, as I subsequently learned, by the thaws near its source in the Rocky Mountains, which, alternating with the frost at night, causes a regular rise and fall each day.  Second thoughts, however, made me resolve on the attempt, as the nipping evening air began to exercise its influence on our naked persons.  We now fairly stripped, hanging our bundles on the end of our rifles; and I, being the tallest, went in advance, having arranged that we should wade one after another, within reach, so that we might render each other assistance in case of accident.  It was nearly dark when I slid down the bank, and had not proceeded more than ten steps when I was swept off my feet, and compelled to strike out with one hand.  I soon, however, got footing again, and called to the rest to try it higher up, where they got no deeper than their hips.  Our progress was very slow, it being nervous work crossing such a river in the night; and one of our companions got so frightened, our difficulties were sadly enhanced.  I made him throw away the meat which he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We were doomed this evening to experience an exemplification of the proverb, "Misfortunes never come single," for in the middle of the night a horde of the buffalo crossed close to our camp, looing and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There was no necessity for again fording the river in pursuit of buffalo, there being droves both above and below us on our own side, and numbers in the act of crossing, giving us a good prospect of sport and fresh food.  Those to leeward of us did not remain long contiguous, crossing over the bluffs in enormous batches, for it is an extraordinary peculiarity of the buffalo, that it will run from the scent of a white man much sooner than from his person, while they are indifferent to that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The shape and appearance of the buffalo is in nowise symmetrical or sightly at any season, but they now looked particularly ungainly, their coats being for the most part cast along their sides and quarters, their necks and heads alone retaining thier shaggy covering, most inappositely like a pet French poodle.  In this month (May) they generally shed, and judges say that a November robe is the best, as the new fleece, having six months to grow, becomes in that period sufficiently thick and warm, with all that softness conducive to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We had not travelled many miles, after apportioning the cow, until we saw a small herd directly in our path, when we halted, and two of our men crept up to shoot at them.  There was a gorge in the bluffs opposite where they were feeding, through which I knew they would rush in retreat when fired on, and there I posted myself on horseback with a light carabine that I could manage with one hand.  I was not deceived, for they made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:direct for the open when they broke, but my horse became so fretful and fidgety, I could not take aim as they passed.  I gave chase, however, and soon got up to and alongside the headmost, down whose shoulder I saw a stream of blood, the effect of a wound.  He cast his eyes fiercely round occasionally as I came over-close to him, showing a disposition to attack, so that it required both my hands in the bridle to prevent my horse from bolting.  I persevered, nevertheless, running a neck-and-neck race, leaping over rocks and bursting through copses of thick brush, until we came to a dry gully that crossed our path, over twelve feet deep, and as many yards wide, and as in mid-career it was impossible to stop short, down we leaped, landing amidst those brutes, who, jostling each other in the descent, were tumbled at the bottom.  It was a fearful moment, and I thought it all up with me, as my horse came to his chest by the shock; but, ere he was on his legs, I was again alone with my bleeding companion, who was scrambling up the other bank; I, however, gained the level first, and before he could get into active motion, fired, but, not being over six yards from him, he made an instant rush, and gored my very poor horse in the shoulder, coming against him with such force as to throw him clean over, unseating me with extreme violence, and falling himself to his knees in the exertion.  The horse jumped quickly up and ran away at full speed, with my foot sticking in the stirrup, and the wounded bull in pursuit; a sudden jerk at length caused the boot to pull off, the bull with his impetus overrunning me, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Having now two beeves--much more than we could consume until the flesh would become tainted--I thought it advisable to remain where we were, and preserve the meat.  This is managed on the prairie by cutting it into strips and drying it over a fire on a kiln, constructed of poles and wattles, when it will keep sweet for a length of time.  The Indians manage it by the heat of the sun, but we called in the aid of artificial fire to ensure despatch.  All meat is the better of being kept over some days before use, but I never before met any that tendered so quickly as the buffalo; whether from its feeding or rambling habits of life I cannot say.  We had some steaks on the coals in less than two hours after the slaughter, yet it eat as short and tender as if kept in a meat-safe for a week under the auspices of the most professed epicure.  We feasted like aldermen on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:boiled tongue, hump-steak, and marrow-bones, and during the evening had some target practice at the head of the bull (which I often heard was impenetrable to a rifle-bullet), commencing at three hundred yards, and reducing the distance to one hundred, at which short range it was perfectly ball-proof.  It is not the great thickness of the <HI REND="italics">os frontis</HI>
053.sgm:<P>My horse bled profusely, and suffered cruelly from the musquitoes, who gathered on the long wound in multitudes.  He was unfit for use afterwards till we reached Fort Laramie, and I experienced myself great pain and uneasiness from the dreadful bumping I got as he dragged me along.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We were early on the road next morning, the travelling easy, but the grass, as the Yankee barbers say, "was shaved behind the skin."  The bluffs gradually inclining to the river, and diminishing the width of the plain, we did not stop to noon, pushing ahead till our avant courier returned with the disagreeable intelligence that there was no feed ahead for ten miles; we then immediately diverged for the margin of the river, where alone there was a particle to be met; but opposite our camp there was a low island, about five hundred yards from the shore, that, from its green appearance, tempted me, notwithstanding my former essay at Platte fording, to visit it.   In this I succeeded pretty easy, not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>This was the first time I saw the spirit of any of our party beginning to flag, and as we sat shivering to our comfortless meal, three of them openly expressed their desire to return home.  I sought to joke them out of their whim, but it was no use.  They demanded a waggon, with their proportion of the animals and provision; which, as I told them, I had no power to give, it being a matter for the consideration of the company, who were unanimous in their refusal, as it would weaken our strength, and expose them to certain peril, in returning through the Pawnee nation after what had occurred.  This latter argument had some weight with the dissentients, who I endeavoured to comfort with the assurance that, when we reached Laramie, I would do what I could to have their wishes complied with, as they might probably hit there upon a caravan going with skins and furs to the States.</P>
053.sgm:<P>If we had a bad supper, we had a treat for breakfast next morning in some rich buffalo-milk, one of the last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We had an accumulation of annoyances this evening, for when we came to camp there were three of our men missing, and the rain came down in such a deluge, no one felt disposed to go out and look for them.  Their absence would not have caused me so much uneasiness, only that, having the river to guide them, I thought it next to impossible they could have gone astray, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Beds for the Invalids--Mode of decoying Antelope--Try it, and Succeed--Sleetstorm--Soft State of the Ground--Cannot find a Dry Spot to Camp on--A Lot of Mules get badly Mired--Continuance of the Storm--Dread lest the River should rise--The Indian Dreader alarmed again--Visit of a large Party of Sioux Indians--Handsome Caparisons--Reason of our Friend's Precipitate Return--Description of the Sioux--Their Costume--Mode of betokening Friendship--Exhibit our Trading Wares--Interchange of Presents--They leave, promising to meet us at the Ford in the Morning--Do not meet their War Party--Mode of Indian Burial--Find the Ford too deep for Crossing--Try it, but are forced to desist--Washing on the Plains--Sioux come again in a handsome Cavalcade--Beauty and Fascinations of the Sioux Women--Sioux Cleverness at Trading--Visit their Village by Invitation--Description of their Town and Wigwams--Juvenile Archery--Get a Cure for my Horse--Give an Acknowledgment of our kind Reception--Take our reluctant Leave--False Character given of the Sioux--River Falls--Wound an Indian by Mistake--Great Breadth of the Platte--The task of Crossing--Consolation in a Hailstorm--Try our New Buffalo Horse--Description of the Indian style of hunting that Animal--Nervous Passage over a very Narrow Ridge--Dangerous Descent and Accident--Lovely Basin at the Bottom--Whirlwind--Enormous sized Hailstones--"Ash Hollow," "North Platte."</P>
053.sgm:<P>I GOT beds made for the invalids in the waggons, and made a start in a biting north-east wind, that called for all the muffling we could muster.  Our road lay through sandhills, which made the pulling very severe.  About ten o'clock, like the shifting of a scene, the cold and gloom moved off, and the piercing air was supplanted by a scorching sun.  We frequently before experienced sudden transitions, but this was by much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We saw a very large herd of antelope a good way off, at the base of the bluffs, who kept such a sharp look-out there was no getting close to them; but having heard, from a superannuated trapper at Independence, that by affixing a bright-coloured rag to a pole, and sticking it in the ground near you, it would be certain to attract them within pistol-range, if the person in ambush could thoroughly conceal himself, I took this opportunity of testing the efficacy of the stratagem.  Getting a capital hiding-place in a dry gully, in the bank of which I stuck up a gaudy-coloured kerchief, they soon saw the novel object fluttering in the breeze, when they all gathered into a bunch, confronting it, gazing at it with elevated heads, like a flock of sheep when a strange dog crosses their pasture, and approximating at intervals, until they came within fifty yards of it, stamping the ground with their fore-feet, as it waved to and fro, as if they were angrily puzzled to make it out.  I was so amused, peeping at them, I did not fire until they came almost within "blow" of me, and I then shot two, the ball going slick through one and killing another as well.  The result of this experiment made me attach greater credence for the future to the stories of old trappers, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Firewood was now our most urgent want, for there was not as much timber on our line of march as would make a toothpick, the interminable Platte winding along the bare plains like a monstrous serpent, without grass, flowers, or any object to relieve the plodding tedium of our way.  The chip was not dry enough for culinary purposes, but the staves of a small rice cask which we found out afforded sufficient fuel to dress our evening's meal.  Next morning was ushered in with a storm of rain and hail, drifted by a strong cold wind, its "pitiless pelting" driving the animals before it with their tails tucked in betwixt their legs; and though they went at a sneaking pace they were a long way off before breakfast was over.  There was no great difficulty in overtaking them, but the job was to make them face it; for no sooner would we have them headed towards the camp than a violent squall would make them round their sterns to it again, so that it took us four hours to get them back half that number of miles.</P>
053.sgm:<P>From all appearances it had set in for a constant wet day, the gushing torrents making me uneasy lest the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There was not a moment's intermission all night, nor a sign of abatement in the morning.  Some of the men went to the river to look for drift brush, but did not get a particle; our breakfast, therefore, consisted of raw beef or bacon, hard bread, and water,--rather meagre fare, taken into consideration with our other hardships <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:and privations.  We now appeared rather to be travelling by water than over land, so completely was the low level ground submerged by the rain, which made me, at all hazards, determine to try and reach the ford of the Platte that evening, for if the storm happened to be general--which it appeared to be--the river might get so swollen as to detain us for a week.  In order to put the animals in heart, I gave each a large basin of thick gruel made of corn meal, which they licked up with great relish, and paid for in improved exertions.  After a few hours' travel the plains began to rise and the clouds to break, leaving us by noon once more dry land and a comfortable sun.  I then sent a small party ahead to inspect and report on the state of the ford, which I knew could not be far away, our Indian dreader amongst them, who since the late "affair assumed a valour if he had it not," deriding the bare idea of Indian prowess when opposed to that of a white man.  But rather sooner than I expected the desired intelligence I descried a horseman returning in hot haste, who I soon perceived was our friend, bareheaded, with a pistol in each hand, the bridle-reins broken and hanging down.  Thus the horse, being under no restraint, galloped into the midst of the loose animals, who, wondering what was the matter, commenced braying, kicking, prancing, and wheeling about him, getting up a most ludicrous scene, in which our friend appeared to be enacting the classic part of "fool in the middle."  Before I could ascertain the cause of his sudden retreat, I saw the remainder of the party <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>I never, either in civilised or savage life, saw a finer or nobler looking race of men than the Sioux, who now favoured us with a visit, all of them of great stature, stalwart, muscular proportions, and agile to a degree, with highly intelligent countenances, strikingly handsome features, and a complexion very little deeper than a dark olive.  They were well armed with various weapons--guns, pistols, tomahawks, bows and arrows--their clean, glossy, and ample buffalo robes hanging about them with all the effect of a Roman toga.  The women were extremely beautiful, with finely-chiselled features, dark lustrous eyes, raven locks, and pearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>As the men approached they dismounted, proffering their hands, with good-humour beaming in their countenances.  The women did not offer any salutation; but at a signal from the chief--a man of herculean proportions, of the real Paddy Cary family, "with brawny shoulders five feet square"--they, too, dismounted, and after tethering their horses, squatted in a semicircle at a little distance from the men.  The chief, then, with a great air of ceremony, commenced charging a large pipe--the calumet of peace--which he passed amongst his subjects, each taking a whiff, and giving his chest a thump as he concluded.  It was then handed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Before leaving us, they inquired if we met their war party, appearing greatly astonished and disappointed as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:we answered in the negative; and now that I had proofs of the kindliness and amicable disposition of their brethren, I regretted it much, as it is a spectacle of surpassing interest and novelty; thus described by Mr. Bryant, who was fortunate enough to have witnessed one:  "I had not travelled this morning far, when I met the war party of the Sioux Indians, who had just broken up their camp, and started on an expedition against the Crows.  Their first design was to conduct their women and children to a secure point on the Platte, where they intended to leave them in care of the old men till they returned.  In marching, they seemed to be divided into numerous parties, at the head of each of which was a beautiful young female, gorgeously decorated, mounted on a fat prancing Indian horse, and bearing in her hand a delicate pole or staff, about ten feet long, from the point of which was suspended, in some instances, a gilt ball and a variety of brass trinkets, with brilliant feathers and natural flowers of various colours.  The chiefs, dressed in their richest costumes, followed immediately in the rear of the female ensign-bearer, with their bows and arrows in their hands; next succeeding them were the women and children and pack animals belonging to the party; and in the rear of all, the warriors; the whole as I met them, party after party, was a most interesting display of savage pageantry.  The female standard-bearers appeared to be more fascinating and beautiful than any objects connected with savage life which I had ever read of or conceived; it appeared as if this was a solemn occasion, for not one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There were a few straggling trees along the river edge, in one of which there was a large round object that looked like a bird's-nest, but as eagles do not build in trees, and the dimensions of the object was too large for such a nest, I went down with a few others, and found a large circular bundle, the size of a washing-tub, wrapped up in matting, and tied with strips of tough bark.  We could not make out or conjecture the meaning of this strange package till next day, when I was informed by a Sioux it was the body of a renowned warrior, interred in mid-air, lest the wolves should scoop it up and devour it--a practice generally adopted towards those who have distinguished themselves either as warriors or wise men in the second degree.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The sun and we rose simultaneously, his smiles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:setting us all asmiling as we good-humouredly pressed forward to encounter the current of the turbid Platte; but our gladsome gaiety was soon converted into growling, and "curses, not loud but deep," at finding its waters several feet above the usual level, and its flood proportionately increased in rapidity.  I felt myself rather out of sorts with the first fine travelling day we had had for a week, and resolved in an attempt before abandoning it; so, selecting the tallest mule of the lot, I got on him without a saddle.  Having divested myself of the major part of my clothing, the old boy, who was called Sacramento, from having figured in that battle, although a veteran campaigner, and equally at home on land or in water, evinced a great deal of reluctance in this instance about wetting his hide, discovering, I believe, in his sagacity, the impracticability of the attempt.  However, I overpersuaded him, and very soon solved the question of fording, for within three lengths of the shore he was swept off his legs, and we were carried down a couple of hundred yards before we could regain it.  There was nothing now for it but a little philosophy, vulgarly called patience; so, taking advantage of the pause, we commenced a general lavabo, to get rid of a large arrear of used-up garments, on which we rung the changes more than once, merely subjecting them to the elementary process of washing, by hanging them round the waggon tops, exposed to the influences of the rain and sun.  On that occasion, however, we went somewhat more artistically to work with soap and knuckles, some of the wayfaring dandies being guilty of the excusable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>While hard at work, up to elbows in suds, our Sioux friends with a large accession of their tribe, made their appearance, coming over the rise driving a lot of mules and horses before them, and accompanied by a multitude of dogs, drawing packs on long poles.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1">*</ANCHOR>
053.sgm: They were, if possible, more carefully attired than on yesterday, and greeted us with the frankness and bonhomie of old acquaintances.  The riding animals were all picketed apart, and those for trade, as well as the robes and mocassins, placed within a space, surrounded by a ring of squatters.  Before the traffic commenced, all those who received presents the day before stood forward to make theirs in return, which they did, especially the maidens, with a degree of simple, easy dignity and grace that was perfectly fascinating; and as the "nut-brown maid," the charming recipient of my looking-glass, presented me with a richly-embroidered pair of mocassins, and proceeded to fasten a handsome bracelet of beads upon my wrist, I never remember to have been so rapturously impressed with the influences and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1">The vehicle is formed by attaching two poles to a breast-strap and passing them through the loops of a backband, letting the ends trail on the ground; binders are then stretched and secured behind the animal, and two upright sticks affixed, which prevent the load from slipping back.  Large-sized ones are constructed of lodge poles (with which their houses are erected), and drawn by mules, by which two modes they transport all their effects when they change their villages, either for the convenience of fresh pasture, or to get into the neighbourhood of game.</NOTE>
053.sgm:<P>We were then invited over to their village, five miles distant; an invitation we could not refuse without having it construed into an affront.  I therefore took with me ten of our party, riding alongside my Dulcinea on her prancing palfrey, and as we went capering and curveting over the prairie, I flatter myself we formed an equestrian corte&acute;ge that neither Ducrow nor Batty ever equalled--one that would monopolise admiration even in the classic regions of Rotten-row.  About midway between our camp and the village there was a large wigwam, the same as those they live in, standing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We partook of some jerked beef in the chief's residence, and afterwards had a display of juvenile archery from the pappooses, or young children, who hit their marks with amazing precision.  This was followed by a native dance by the young men and women, who chanted their own music, which was not of the most spirit-moving character; nor was the ballet a display of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:a very attractive nature--as, indeed, it could not well be--for dancing in a circle, with clasped hands, did not admit of much grace or variety of motion.  There seemed to be at least some half-dozen dogs to each wigwam, some of them fine-sized, powerful brutes, and the plains around for miles were covered with horses, mules, mares, and foals.  I got a salve for my poor horse's shoulder from the chief, that soon healed it up, which, from its highly sanative properties, would be a great acquisition to the veterinary pharmacop&oelig;ia, but I could not find out more than that it was composed of certain herbs and buffalo-marrow.  Before leaving, the chief asked, and got from me, a written acknowledgment that he was a "good Indian," and "treated us kindly," which he would show to the commandant at Fort Kearney, to propitiate his good opinion.  He then escorted us to the entrance of the village, and formally took leave, making us signs he would send some of his subjects in the morning to assist at the crossing.  I turned more than once on the plain to gaze on the dwelling-place of the lovely Sioux girl; and, as the village sunk from sight beyond an undulation of the prairie, I felt a saddened soul swelling, in which the moistened eye sympathised, and thought of the plaintive couplet:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Maid of Athens, ere we part,<LB>Give, oh! give me back my heart.</HI>
053.sgm:<P>I was told at the fort the Sioux were not to be trusted; that they were treacherous, thieving, and only contented when dabbling in human gore; yet I found their disposition the diametrically opposite to this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>I was highly gratified to find on my return to camp that the river had fallen considerably, and that we might look for a steady decline from the continuance of fine weather.  Those who remained in camp had not been idle in our absence, having propped up the waggonbeds fourteen inches on the axles; arranged the loading, by placing the powder and breadstuffs on the top; and having dug away the bank, made the descent easy and gradual, so that nothing remained but harness and dash in in the morning.  An unpleasant accident took place in the night by the coming of the Indians the chief promised, who were not expected until morning; but long before the dawn they were seen advancing to the camp by one of the watch who remained behind, and was unaware of the arrangement.  He at once challenged, and a second time, without receiving an answer, when he fired, sending the ball betwixt the left arm and the side of one of the Indians; fortunately without doing any injury--scarcely even drawing blood, as there was only a slight abrasion of the skin on both arm and side.  The Indians walked coolly on as if nothing had occurred, and seemed to understand and cordially receive the explanation given them.</P>
053.sgm:<P>After an early and hurried breakfast two of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:Indians went into the river, and betwixt swimming and wading got over, after nearly an hour's struggle, the river being close upon two miles wide.  When they reached the banks opposite, they took their stations at the point where alone we could get out; and one of those that remained mounted to point out the best track through the current.  We then put five span of picked mules to my waggon, with a rider on the near leader and wheel ones, riding myself below the team, to prevent them from swerving with the stream.  In this order we went in, but, notwithstanding the digging away of the bank, the waggon made a dive that nearly drove the tongue mules under water; and, only there was a good man in the saddle, who upheld them with a powerful arm, the consequences might have been highly disastrous, as the waggon was broadside to the current.  It occasionally swayed with portentous violence, almost floating when it got into deep water; and again, as it reached a shoal, the flood rushed through the spokes with a truly nervous noise.  The mules in like manner were alternately aswim and walking, the length of our team constituting our greatest safety; for when the wheel mules would be out of their depth, the lead and middle ones might not be over knee-deep, and <HI REND="italics">vice versa&circ;</HI>
053.sgm:, so that there were always some on the strain to keep the waggon in motion, otherwise it would sink in the quicksand, and all would be lost.  The danger, against which it was impossible to take any precaution, was that of overturning, as the wheels on one side got on the steep sides of the countless hills and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>As I before remarked, all our tasks either commenced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The 20th brought forth a sun, but of a cold, silvery complexion, little calculated to make the amende for the negligence of yesterday.  With a toilsome day's work before us--having to cross the neck of land that separates the south from the north fork of Platte, the route lying over high hills and low valleys, that looked like lakes from the late rains--two of the Indians asked permission to accompany us "two suns' travel," a request they could not be graciously denied, after the kind manner in which we were treated by their tribe.  Not very long after starting we saw a small herd of buffalo to windward of us, and, being desirous to test the merits of the Buffalo horse we got in trade, I made known to one of the Indians that I wished him to pursue them and shoot one.  Spreading out the arms before him that he might take his choice of weapons, he selected two holster-pistols, which he stuck in his girdle, and, throwing aside his robe, caught the little horse, and, making a sort of noose bridle of the lariat, jumped upon him bare-backed.  The game creature knew perfectly well what was in the wind, as, pricking forward his ears, he voluntarily darted off towards the herd, while we stopped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:on a hill-side looking on at the sport.  It so happened the herd did not break until he was tolerably close to them, and, curiously enough, they then headed back in the direction from which he came.  He was soon laid alongside a big bull, who, as he drew closer upon him, pistol in hand, made a quick lunge, which was as quickly evaded by the horse, without any admonition from the rider, immediately resuming his proximate position of his own accord.  After galloping a few strides more, the Indian leant over, and stretching his arm to the full length, fired; a momentary shock followed the report, after which the wounded brute darted from the herd at his enemy; but the watchful horse, as quick as thought, wheeled right round, galloping away from his pursuer, with what jockies call a stirrup eye cast back to watch his movements, regulating his speed so accurately as not more than safely to outstrip him.  The bleeding buffalo continued the chase a quarter of a mile, and then stopped, pawing the earth in an agony of pain and fury; the horse was stock-still at the same moment, as if gifted with volition, and became again the pursuer, as the buffalo turned to rejoin the herd.  In less than a minute he was once more side by side with the sinking bull, dodging his thrusts with the skill of a fencing-master, until another shot brought the contest to a close, the buffalo dropping to his knees and falling slowly over on his side as the life-ebbing tide issued from his chest.  The Indian immediately dismounted to cut his throat; and, while engaged in this operation, the horse stood quietly over the prostrate carcase, like a greyhound after having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>About half-way between the forks we got upon the summit of the hills that divide them, where driving became rather a nerve-testing operation, the only practicable path being along a ridge, with a declivity, amounting to a precipice, on each side, and so narrow it did not admit of a man's walking alongside to lay hold of the leaders in case of need; but this very circumstance, I believe, contributed to our safety, as the sagacity of the mule convinced him there was no alternative but to go on cautiously.  Not a voice was heard for a couple of miles, every mind being occupied with the sensations of impending danger; for in some places the trail was so edge-like, even some of the horsemen alit, under the influence of giddiness.  As we advanced the ridge gradually rounded, leading to such a long and abrupt descent, that we debated the propriety of detaching the bodies of the waggons from the wheels and sliding them down; but as the driver of the lead one volunteered to essay a trial with rough double-locking and holding back with ropes, we tried the experiment, taking out all but the wheel-spans, which were left in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>While contemplating the beauties of this favoured place, one of the Indians ran up, shouting unintelligible jargon at the top of his voice, and gesticulating with frantic vehemence.  Hostile Indians first suggested themselves as the cause of the alarm; then a wild drove <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:of hemmed-in buffalo; but the practised eye of the Sioux detected a gathering whirlwind, peculiar to those regions, and eagerly pointing to the south-west, where a small black cloud, that did not look bigger than a connon-ball, came rushing and expanding through the sky with preternatural velocity.  He made hasty signs to unhitch the mules, and bring them, with ourselves, to shelter in a thick brush, apart from any lofty timber; but before they were all disengaged the roar of the maddened elements burst upon us with appalling violence, projecting hail and irregular blocks of ice, of unprecedented magnitude, that plumped through the exposed waggon-covers as if they were wet paper, and made the animals wince and jump as they hopped upon their backs and quarters.  Several huge trees were uprooted near where we first halted, and limbs and branches whirled aloft like so many wisps.  It swept past us in a very few minutes, taking the course of the ridge from which we so lately descended; and had it overtaken us there, it would have put an end to the expedition, for men, animals, and waggons, would have been inevitably hurled from the heights.  As we crept from our shelter, we found the ground covered with detached masses of ice, some of which measured six, some nine inches in circumference, many glittering with prismatic hues, which, on being broken, had blades of grass in their hearts, that were carried into the air by the whirlwind, and congealed in their frozen prisons.  I am satisfied that many of those pieces were sufficiently heavy to cause death if they hit a person <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Drifting Sand--Court-House Rock--Uninteresting Scenery--More Rain--Its disagreeable Effect--Chimney Rock--Its Appearance--Fast decaying--Symptoms of Gold in the Ravines--Continued Rain--Damages our Provisions--Stopped by the Mud--Brandy Rations--Mount Ararat--Scenery improves--Indian Introduction--Air our Loading--Shoot Antelope--French Trapper--Fascinations of that Mode of Existence--Anticipations about Fort Laramie--The Fort itself--Obliging Governor--Trading at the Fort--Distance from Independence, and Time occupied in Travelling--Future Facilities--Determine on Packing--Dissuasions of the Governor unavailing--Crow Indians; their very bad Character--Faith in Indian Chivalry--Vote of Thanks--Troubles of Packing--Renewed Contests with the Mules--Their Antics--Difficulty of cording Packs--Pack turns; Conduct of the Mules thereon--Our first night's Bivouac as Packers--Black Hills; expansive View--Worrying Mishap and Delay--Moonlight Travel--Thoughts about the Crows--Long Day's Journey--Fatigue, Disappointment, Delight, and Apprehension--Unwelcome Sounds--Deliberation--The Appearance of the Country--Crickets and Ants--Our Precautions preparative to rest.</P>
053.sgm:<P>OUR next day's journey was through loose drifting sands, that reached from the river edge to the bluffs, not presenting a single feature worthy of note or comment either in vegetable or animal life, with the exception of a huge isolated rock, about six miles from the river, called by the trappers "Court-House Rock," from its supposed resemblance to a large public building of that description; but there was nothing about it of that striking character to seduce me from my path so far <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The following morning was most promising; and, continuing so up to our nooning, we spread out all our clothes and provisions to get the benefit of the sun, which, with its usual caprice in those quarters, retired behind a dark curtain, to make way for a teem of rain that poured down so copiously it ran in surface streamlets over the plains.  I may literally say we came to anchor this evening in a sheet of water, the prairie, as far as we could see, presenting the same aqueous aspect.  We were drenched with rain, and shivering from the cold raw wind, the measure of our grievances being filled up by a supper of raw meat and hard bread.  We endeavoured to secure dry lodging by digging deep trenches round our tents, which had a temporary effect in draining the space on which they stood; but as there was not enough of fall to carry off the water, they filled up soon after we went to sleep, and when we awoke in the morning there was fully four inches of water around us on our robes.  There was no abatement in the rain, and I felt sorely ill at ease as I saw the pitiable plight of the poor animals, standing with drooping heads, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There was now observable through the mist high up in the clouds a pointed object, that looked like the top of some monumental erection, becoming more and more distinctly defined as we proceeded.  With its base still enveloped in fog, we camped parallel with it on a slightly elevated patch that lay close along the river edge, where the water could not lodge, and the animals had some little picking; but I was grieved to find the breasts and shoulders of several of them scalded and stripping from the constant wet; however, we had enough amongst the rest of the troop to let those go free until the soreness abated.  It was early in the day when we stopped, shaking in our dripping garments, without anything to employ the interval until evening, or a spark of fire to heat our numbed limbs.  Under these circumstances it was proposed that a party should go to the bluffs, about four miles distant, to try and pick up as many sticks of cedar as would cook us a warm supper--a proposition very generally approved of.  We headed towards this tapering rock, called by roamers on the prairie "Chimney Rock," though, to my eye, there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We all got good back loads of dry cedar, which by the time we got to camp produced quite a calorific effect on the system without the process of ignition; three cheers saluting us as we cast them on the ground, for the idea of a jorum of hot coffee set us all in high <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Before starting, we helped all the animals to a basin each of thick gruel, which they stood sadly in need of, and then commenced our plashing march through the water, not making more than a mile an hour; nor had we proceeded at this snail's pace over a few miles, when our leading waggon got stuck fast and deep in a slough, the mules being so jibbed and cowed they could not be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The rain now changed into sleet that completely benumbed us, depriving the drivers of all feeling in their fingers to hold the reins.  We did not make over nine miles, and had not even the consolation of hitting on dry camping-ground; so that the men became wofully depressed, some of them looking as if labouring under the premonitory symptoms of ague; as a preventive to which I again served out brandy rations, there being no chance of a hot supper.  Those not on guard huddled themselves into the waggons to try and generate animal heat by close contact; but with all our endeavours it was about the most trieste and dreary night I ever spent in my life.</P>
053.sgm:<P>A thick heavy fog hung over us in the morning for awhile, and then rolled away, revealing to us the face of our long-lost friend, the sun, who quickly dispelled the vapours of mind as well, and caused us to forget the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:chills and ills of the last few days, the cleared atmosphere enabling us to see ahead a dry rolling prairie, which gave rise to the profane cry, "Mount Ararat--Mount Ararat at last!"  As we got on the elevated ground, we could see that the bluffs took a curve like the tail of a shepherd's crook, a prominent eminence forming the curl at the end.  This is called "Scott's Bluff," from the body of an enterprising trapper of that name being found upon it.  It is supposed he lost his way, and having crawled up on it for a look-out, died of starvation.  The sides of the bluffs were no longer smooth and sloping, but bold and rugged, belted with abrupt ledges of sandstone, and split by craggy ravines, well wooded with large cedar.  As we advanced into the bend of the crook, over a fine rich grassy lea, the scene became heightened in beauty and interest, until, close under one of those fantastic cliffs, we found a rustic log-hut, the <HI REND="italics">country residence</HI>
053.sgm:<P>We arrived at an hour that afforded us ample time to spread out and dry our food, raiment, &amp;c. but it smacked of desecration to see the enchanting spot, sacred to the spirit of solitude, strewed over with our blue-moulded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:duds, and the tender flowerets, that would grace a Paradise, crushed beneath flour-bags and flitches of bacon.  The distance hence to Fort Laramie was fifty-five miles, over a rolling country, covered with good pasture, but not calling for any especial notice.  We met the Platte at several points, covered as usual with tufty islets, and shot two antelopes, that sufficed us till we arrived there.  As we were rolling along the second day we saw a man running across the plain to meet us, who we first thought was an Indian, but as he came up proved to be a French trapper, clad in a buckskin suit, with a fine rifle on his shoulder.  He spoke tolerable English, expressing his surprise that we could have managed to get thus far so early as the 26th of May.  He informed us he was the son of an old French trapper, from the Hudson Bay settlement, brought out by his father when quite a boy; and that, after his death, he continued the same mode of life, having married the daughter of an Indian chief, in whose society he forgot every feeling or desire to visit the crowded thoroughfares of the world, procuring, as he said, the main staples of existence with his gun, and obtaining the few superfluities he desires at the fort, in exchange for the skins of the game he kills.  "It is no less singular than true," that most men who frequent the hunting-ground of the Indian, either as trappers or tourists, contract a singular liking for their habits of life; and innumerable instances are on record where men of independent fortune have forsaken the conventionalities of polished society for the simple, unsophisticated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>I gave a <HI REND="italics">carte-blanche</HI>
053.sgm: to my imagination as we drew nigh Fort Laramie, in view of the Black Hills (as they are called) at its back, seeing in "my mind's eye" a bold fortress, perched, in stern solitary grandeur, on a beetling crag, with corbled battlements bristling with cannon, encircled by chasms, through which mountain torrents roared vengeance on any of unbidden approach; but, "like the baseless fabric of a vision," my glowing fancy vanished before the wretched reality--a miserable, cracked, dilapidated, adobe, quadrangular enclosure, with a wall about twelve feet high, three sides of which were shedded down as stores and workshops, the fourth, or front, having a two-story erection, with a projecting balcony, for hurling projectiles or hot water on the foe, propped all around on the outside with beams of timber, which an enemy had only to kick away and down would come the whole structure.  It stands, or rather leans, upon a naked plain by the side of a rapid little river, in which a Frenchman named Laramie was drowned, yielding up his name both to the river and the fort.  It is not a military station, but belongs to the "American Fur Trading Company," who keep there a supply of trumpery merchandise, to exchange with the Indian and trapper for such skins as they can procure.  On its early establishment the beaver abounded in all the rivers of this region; but now the trade is exclusively confined to buffalo robes.  It may, however, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>I found Mr. Husband, the manager, or governor as he is styled, a most obliging, intelligent, and communicative person.  He offered us apartments to sleep in; but we did not deem it prudent to make a change in our living in that respect, lest it should afterwards affect our health; we, however, made use of the forge to tighten our wheel-tyres, and make other small repairs connected with the waggon and harness.  There were some Indians of the Sioux tribe about the fort trading while we were there, the trading colloquy between whom and Mr. Husband was most amusing, each praising their own and depreciating the value of the other's ware; rattling away with great volubility, "suiting the action to the word."  It requires great patience to carry on this system of dealing, the smallest bargain consuming as much time as the largest transaction; and it matters not how well soever the article may suit the Indian, or how much he may desire to secure it, he will never give way to precipitancy, yielding up his final acquiescence with an affectation of reluctance.</P>
053.sgm:<P>There is, besides the governor, a superintendent and ten men employed in stowing and packing robes and skins, who were all greatly in need of clothing of one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It occupied us forty-three days reaching Fort Laramie, our stopping days inclusive, leaving an average for travelling days of eighteen miles per day, the distance being seven hundred miles from Independence.  This, though tedious, was not so very slow, considering the sort of vehicles we travelled in, the loads we carried, and the nature of the roads and obstructions we had to deal with; but at a future day, when the track is more beaten, and the bad places bridged over and smoothed, it can be accomplished in a much shorter time, the more particularly as a lighter vehicle can then be used, and as traders, no doubt, will keep large stocks of supplies at the different points--caravans--instead of encumbering themselves with stores and necessaries for the entire trip, need only carry as much as will be necessary from post to post.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Since our favourable experience of Indian disposition from the Siouxs, the project was frequently discussed amongst us of picking out a small party, to go on, by means of pack-mules, from Laramie to California, to have a location selected for the company by the time they got up, and such preliminary preparations as would enable them to go to work without delay.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:smallness of the party was no longer considered a difficulty, and it only remained to agree upon the number, and of whom it was to be made up.  Eight at length was decided on as the strength, to be drawn by ballot from those who desired to exchange the tedious conveniences of waggon transit for the fatiguing and self-denying mode of travelling by pack-mules.  In virtue of my captaincy I was accorded a free choice, and became an <HI REND="italics">ex-officio</HI>
053.sgm: packman.  Out of the other seven chosen there were some well suited for the change, but others whose habits and physical conformation rendered them wholly unfit for the undertaking.  However, there remained no method of rectifying the matter without creating jealousy and bad feeling.  It was arranged we were to have a saddle-horse and pack-mule each, much preliminary trouble being avoided by obtaining full-rigged pack-saddles at the fort; but when we came to mention the matter to Mr. Husband, offering the waggons, which should be necessarily abandoned, in exchange for the pack-saddles, he discouraged the project as one of very great danger, and earnestly remonstrated, telling me that the Crows (Indians), through whose country we should pass for at least three hundred miles, were a fierce, cruel, and powerful tribe, whose vigilance we could not hope to elude, and that, even if our lives were saved (which he did not expect), we would assuredly be stripped of our clothes, provisions, arms, and animals, which would be tantamount to taking our lives: for a man might as well be thrown overboard in the ocean as abandoned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:in such a condition on the prairie, illustrating his reasoning with many stories of the barbarous treatment that trappers who fell into their hands from time to time experienced.  It was evident he made a deep impression on some of the elect; but for my part, entertaining an impregnable faith in Indian chivalry since my acquaintance with the Sioux, I had made up my mind to run the risk of being plucked by the Crows if only one more was to join me.  In consequence of Mr. Husband's opinions the subject was again discussed, and four of the chosen men seceded, leaving, to my great delight, three of the <HI REND="italics">e&acute;lite</HI>
053.sgm:<P>This being determined on, there was nothing to prevent the waggons from proceeding, while the making, weighing, and adjusting of the packs would necessarily detain us at least another day.  Before starting, however, there was a full muster of the original company, and a vote of thanks passed to me "for the judicious and careful manner I conducted the expedition to Laramie," with other complimentary addenda I feel too modest to set forth.  We retained nothing but absolute indispensables, forwarding the major part of our clothing by the waggons; our bread was wholly hard bread, which saved us the carrying of an oven, and we exchanged our bacon for jerked buffalo-beef, of which they had a good supply at the fort; we did not take a tent, as it would be an unhandy article to pack, and despatch being our object, we were content to put up with some privations, in order that, with light-loaded animals, we might get to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We, the packers, were now busily employed making pack-sacks of a uniform size, and stowing and adjusting them, so that they should be of precisely equal weight, as the slightest preponderance would, from the perpetual jolting, sway them over despite of the tightest strapping.  By evening this branch of preparation was concluded, and our pack-saddles rigged, with cruppers, britchings, lash-ropes, and apichments.  Next morning, we caught the mules intended for packing, and with the aid and instruction of an experienced hand at the fort, commenced by far the most bothersome and temper-testing job we encountered yet; for as soon as the mules saw the pack-saddles they began shifting round and back again, so that we could not place them on their backs; and when we shortened their tyings to keep them still, they set to plunging and kicking, as if firmly bent on resistance; even two of them, that were hitherto remarkable for their extreme docility, being amongst the most violent of the rebels.  By putting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We now got on our packs, taking lessons in the complicated art of tying them, which, permit me to assure you, requires a long head to remember and a strong hand to execute, such is the variety and eccentricity of hitchings and twistings according to the Mexican mode, in which nation the science of packing animals ranks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>I had not used my horse since the accident till now, so he was in fine plight from the rest, his wound being perfectly healed by the salve I got from the Sioux chief.  All things considered, we made a smooth start, moving on slowly but propitiously for two miles or so, when, going down a hill, one of the packs worked so far forward the mule became restive, and putting down his head, kicked it over his shoulder, the saddle turning under his belly, and causing him to rear and kick until he liberated himself from all the straps and tyings, which were snapped and broken in divers places.  This made a halt inevitable, and by the time everything was stitched, cobbled, and set to rights, it was too late to proceed.  During supper large drops of rain forewarned us to look to our packs, for, having no tents, our robes and blankets were the only means we had of protecting them, it being preferable to go without sleep, and submit to a good ducking, rather than have our biscuits transmuted into lumps of dough, and our other provisions and ammunition damaged.  It was a cold, trying night, and I very much question, if the waggons were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Soon after daylight we hauled the pack-animals close up to a cedar stump, and girthed the saddles, leaving them to accommodate themselves to them while we eat our breakfast.  This over, we got on the packs, and after a multiplicity of offers, like children playing finger-cradle, we came upon the right tie at last, moving off under what we considered favourable auspices, and soon gaining an elevated ridge of prairie, where a new and truly sublime scene unfolded itself.  The fort--which, like many other objects, living as well as inanimate, looks best at a distance--had quite an imposing appearance, reposing on the broad plain behind, by the side of its sinuous namesake; Laramie's peak to the south-west, rearing its cedar-clad sides and pointed crest into the clear blue heavens, standing amidst the black hills like a towering cathedral in a giant city; while, to the north-west, the distant rocky mountains and the snow-clad summits of the Wind river range mingled with the clouds, giving a scope to the view that tried the nerves of visions.  The country was rolling and verdant in the extreme, though the hills, as viewed at a distance, had a sombre cast, from the deep green tint of the foliage that covered their sides.  We were going along in great glee in this magnificent solitude, congratulating ourselves on the virtues of perseverance in having overcome the troubles and annoyances of packing, and although not yet adepts, looking forward at no short time to be perfect masters of the art, when the quietest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>I felt confoundedly annoyed, and let my temper effervesce in a variety of anathemas against the whole mulish progeny.  It seemed to be a contest who should be the last to offer a suggestion, but there were no two ways about it; we required four pack-animals, and without another pack-saddle we could not budge.  I therefore turned right about and galloped back to the fort, nine miles off, to procure one, getting over the ground at such a rate that I was back, and had the party again moving precisely two hours from the time of the accident.  We took our dinners on our saddles, and got a refreshing quaff of good water, where we could see by the fire-rakings, our waggon friends had spent the night before last; we also filled our canteens and let the animals fill themselves, resolved upon travelling as long as we had light.</P>
053.sgm:<P>It was a delightful ride, ascending and descending grassy hills, and winding through sweet avenues, shaded with cedars of enormous growth, and fragrant with the delicious odours of scented shrubs and blossoming bushes.  Towards dusk we came into a broken ravine, where winter floods are wont to revel; and, hoping to reach good grass and water at the other end, were enticed to proceed, from bend to bend, until the moon, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Next day at dawn we resumed our march, the route being over high rounded hills of light calcareous soil, without any timber, till noon, when they became bolder and broken, and intersected with streams.  We travelled a few hours by the banks of one brisk rivulet not laid down by name in my way-bill, where we were sorely tempted to wait an hour, it was so thickly inhabited with fish.  Deer were very plentiful about, and buffalo, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We all alighted, leading our horses; the mules having become reconciled to their new employment followed without leading, poking into every split or crevice, until we became so jaded, three out of the four voted for a halt; but the other gentleman, being better bottomed and more sanguine, left us his horse and went on by himself round an angle of timber in quest of a pool or brook.  He was absent some time, and we were indulging in a wayside snooze, with the stock browsing around us, when I thought a whistle struck upon my tympanum.  I listened a little, and the shrill notes were repeated; so I aroused my companions, who toddled on, seeing our friend, as we rounded the clump, sitting by the edge of a pool of water.  This cheered up our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We were greatly out of sorts at the disappointment, our chagrin being increased by the way in which our friend seemed to enjoy it; but as he saw we got sulky and querulous, he pulled his canteen from behind him, and stopped our mouths effectually with a draught of most delicious water, pointing to some green willows at the base of the hill, where there was a bubbling well of crystal water,of which we drank so liberally, although aware it was improper, that we lost all relish for supper.  It was laughable to see the mules (who could only get in one at a time between two rocks) nipping the posteriors of him in possession, until retaliation became stronger than thirst.  There was a little drawback to our gratification, though, in the number of fresh mocassin prints about the place, clearly not over a day old, which prevented my firing at a buck that passed quite close to us, lest the report should bring some unbidden guests to supper.  We were also content to forego the pleasure of a fire on the same account, making our evening's repast on jerked beef and biscuit.</P>
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053.sgm:<P>Next morning we got upon a magnificent alluvial bottom, stretching north and south some miles, with a broad belt of heavy timber winding through it, from which, as we approached, we heard the sounds of running water--a lovely stream, fifty feet wide, coursing covertly within its shade.  From this we began to ascend a high wooded ridge for better than two miles, from the top of which we saw a thin column of smoke issuing through the trees below, exactly in the direction of our trail.  As this could only proceed from an Indian encampment, we diverged in a southerly course, under the influence of the axiom, "prudence is the better part of valour;" nor had we any obstacles to contend with, as there was no brush whatever, and the sod was as smooth as the close-mowed beds of a pleasure-ground.  As we descended into the bosom of the vale, about on a parallel with the place from which the smoke issued, we could distincly hear at intervals the swell of voices, succeeded a moment after by a wild, prolonged whoop, which, of course, we set down as the result of their having descried us, through some of the long vistas in the timber.  Now came the time for testing the disposition of the Crows, as I imagined; and while I strove to satisfy myself they were a chivalrous tribe, misrepresented like the Sioux, I could not, by any process of assurance, gain over my nerves from a prejudice in favour of Mr. Husband's opinions.  However, we proceeded as if nothing occurred, everything in readiness, with a positive injunction that no one should attempt to fire until the evil intentions of the Indians were made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Hearing no further sounds, we made sure they were closing upon us stealthily; still we could not discover any sign of their approach.  We were now ascending the opposite rise, midway up which the timber ceased, and were at first undecided whether we should emerge from it or not, as we would then be without any screen; but the Fabian policy not suiting our book, we went steadily ahead, and passed over the crown of the ridge without any interruption, which led us to think the shout originated from some other cause, and that we were still unobserved--a conjecture I believe to be correct, for we neither saw nor heard any symptoms of further Indians during the day.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The country was broken and exceedingly undulating, sparely covered with timber in the vicinity of streams, in which, curious enough, not a bird of any description was to be seen; nor had the notes of a feathered warbler saluted our ears since we left Larimie, though we passed through groves and dells, where one would think they would delight to dwell.  However, their paucity was counterbalanced by the swarms of crickets and large ants, that continued to increase as we penetrated the black hills, until the surface became completely covered with them, so that you could not avoid killing several at every step.  They kept up a purring sort of noise, and emitted a very disagreeable effluvia, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Large dry River-bed--Notice nailed to a Tree--Forced Marches of the Waggons--Buffalo Break--Long Day's Journey--No Sign of Waggons--Bad Policy of forcing Travel on such a Journey--Indians about--Report of a Gun at Daybreak--Our Waggon Friends at length--The Ferry of the Platte--Mormon Encampment--The Crossing--Lamentable Accident--Incommunicativeness of the Mormons--Fearful Mule-track above the River--Description of the Passage--The Sand Tick Nuisance--" <HI REND="italics">Travelling</HI>
053.sgm: makes us acquainted with Strange Bedfellows"--Artemesia--"Long Threatening comes at last"--The Crow Indians--We treat them with Confidence--They treat us with Treachery--The Scuffle--Our Good Fortune--Annihilation of our Packing Fixtures--Ruse to Escape their Vengeance--Midnight Travel--Come up to the Waggon Camp--New Arrangement--Volcanic Debris--Bitter Water--Distant View of the Wind River Range--Sal Eratus Lakes--"The Sweetwater"--Independence Rock--Misnomer of the River--Wonderful Canon--Our Last Buffalo--Surprise a Party of Crows--Their great Fright--Artemesia Fire--No Buffalo west of the Rocky Mountains. WE arranged an early start, in order to make sure of catching up with our company, and were, accordingly, moving at the grey dawn.  The country was very hilly for about ten miles, and then gradually subsided into large level tracts.  We crossed in the course of the morning a river, which, from the width and depth of its nearly dry bed, must be one of very large volume in the wet seasons, though there were no mountains or hills in view calculated to feed such a current, and nooned rather late at another river, broad and rapid, where we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The sand-flat was bounded by a low ridge of the same material, where the animals sank to their bellies at every step; but as soon as we got over it we again espied the Platte, with a lovely level grass plain betwixt it and the sand-ridges, stretching away beyond view, without rush or bramble, or a glimpse of the waggons, to gladden the sight.  We now increased our pace to a smart canter, crossing numerous clear streams, running <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It was very desirable, no doubt, to get over the journey as quickly as possible; but it was very bad policy to make forced marches without any urgent necessity, with fifteen hundred miles, the Rocky Mountains, and the Sierra Nevada yet to be surmounted.  This I strongly felt, though no longer responsible, and made up my mind to express it the moment I had the opportunity.</P>
053.sgm:<P>According to our way-bill, and comparing it with our computed travel, we could not be far off the next crossing of the Platte, the point I now conjectured they strove to make, and one, from what I heard of its difficulty and danger, I sincerely wished we were all safe over, as its channel there gets so comparatively narrow, it becomes much too deep for fording; while its current is so excessively swift, the passage in a waggon-bed is a matter of extreme risk and labour.  The sands about our encampment bore the impress of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:mocassins and bare feet so thickly and so newly made, the wonder was we could not see any living proofs of the Indian neighbourhood; and I assuredly would have been much more comfortable to have seen them <HI REND="italics">in propria&circ; persona&circ;</HI>
053.sgm:<P>We tied on our packs and saddled our horses in the morning twilight, and soon after commenced our march, startling deer and antelope out of every slope, but giving them no molestation.  About the time the sun arose, the report of a gun reached our ears, at which I cantered on to the rise before us, and there had revealed to view our fugitive friends in the act of hitching up.  It was just as I expected; the waggon animals were overdriven, as evidenced by their raw shoulders and sluggish gait.  They pressed us for an exchange, to which I acceded in so far as the mule "as would not pack" and another with a sore tail, caused by a bad crupper, the raw shoulders being of as little moment in packing as the sore tails in harness.  We travelled on in company to the crossing point, discussing the matter in all its bearings, and arranging the order of work; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:but as I was accustomed to boats and boating all my life, I was obliged to consent to be the Palinurus of the occasion, steering the light waggon-bed, for which we had a capital set of paddles, knowing the necessity for using them would frequently arise.  However, to our great relief and joy, we found at the crossing a body of Mormons strongly entrenched in a heavy timber palisading, for their own protection and the security of their animals, as they informed us they were attacked by the Crows <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
053.sgm:<P>The Mormons, always on the look-out for gain as well as glory--or salvation, more properly speaking--travelled all the way from Salt Lake, over four hundred miles, to establish a ferry, anticipating a large overland emigration, and knowing there was no other point of passing, they finished two dug-out canoes since they came, on which they constructed a large platform, capable of carrying a loaded waggon in safety.  This structure they worked with three large oars, one at each side, and one as a rudder, getting over smoothly enough, but at a terrible slant, which gave them hard labour in again working up against the stream, even with the assistance of two yoke of oxen pulling on the bank as on a canal.  We got all our waggons, packs, luggage, harness, &amp;c., over without any accident or interruption, but not so our animals; those we drove up a quarter of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>Here the mare, instinctively dreading the danger, turned round as she felt the influence of the current, and nearly all the mules being close upon her haunches, were carried, by their own impetus and that of the flood, right against her, rolling her and her rider under the water, and passing clean over.  It was some moments after they passed when the mare again appeared, but she came to the surface without a rider, swimming languidly, unable to stem the stream, and pulling up her head violently at times, as if the bridle got foul of something below.  We ran down the banks on each side, hoping to get a glimpse of poor Masters; not that we expected, after such a lapse of time, we could rescue him alive, but we were desirous to pay him the poor tribute of a rude burial.  The mare at length gained the other shore, fully a mile below the point at which the waggons landed, but, instead of struggling up to dry land, she stood with her head drooped, looking so exhausted she seemed unable to move.  Two of the men went down to where she was, and finding a weight attached to the bridle, they pulled on it, bringing to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>I did not feel disposed to recommence travelling that evening, nor would we, if there was any grass about; but it was drifting sand all around, leaving us no other alternative but going on about five miles to where the Mormons said we would find good camping, as they stopped there, at good grass and water, on their way across.  They requested payment of the ferryage in coffee and flour, allowing us a price that left a profit of two hundred per cent., and gave us a fresh way-bill up to the point where the Salt Lake trail diverges in a more southerly direction from the one we were to follow.  Having a great desire to visit the new settlement of the Latter-Day Saints, as they delight in styling themselves, I made several inquiries respecting the difference of distances and comparison of routes, should we take it into our heads to change our minds and go that way; but I saw there was an evident reluctance to impart any encouraging information, as if they disliked the idea of our passing through their capital.  I could not then divine the reason; but this very coyness only served to increase my anxiety, as interdict is always sure to beget desire, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>The waggons, from the very deep sand and high hills, were constrained to make a wide circuit; but with the pack-mules we took an Indian foot trail along the river in a direct line, the banks becoming high and precipitous as we proceeded, the path continuing to run close by the edge.  After a few miles' progress we commenced ascending the hip of lofty sandstone bluffs in single file, as the trail would not admit of more.  It wound up the heights impending over the river at such easy gradients we scarcely perceived our elevation, until we came to a sharp angle, where it suddenly narrowed, and the side of the hill became perfectly upright, with the river foaming at its base.  My horse stopped short with a snort and a shudder that first made me feel the imminence of the danger--there was barely space for him to stand, as he leant inwards, crushing my knee and shoulder against the face of the rock.  I looked cautiously round to see if there was any chance of retracing our steps, but immediately saw there was none--not even room for a goat to turn round--while the horse-men and pack-animals were all in a string, quite close together, pressing against one another in consequence of my stop.  I felt my head queer, and would have dismounted if I could, but this was impracticable.  While wavering from nervousness in this awful situation, my horse got a smart nip behind from an impatient mule, that made him wince, and what with the squeeling and noise in the rear, I knew they were biting and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>I now yielded myself to fate, expecting the next instant would consign me to eternity; and was so completely robbed of consciousness I did not observe how the pass was got over.  When I was able to draw a full breath I saw we had attained our greatest eminence, and though we had a little more room for descending, it was so steep, the only mode of getting down was by sliding on the breech.  This was fine fun for the mules, who are perfectly at home in such places, and actually seemed to enjoy the terror of the horses, as I have seen boys ridicule the apprehensions of their more timid companions; for when mine would essay a cautious slide, the imp behind would cast himself off with such reckless abandonment, as to come on top of us in a few yards, his fore-feet on my shoulders, indulging in a jocular pinch at every pause.  As we descended, however, both man and horse got reassured, and I felt myself perfectly at ease, when my horse, to make up for a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We came to the camp-ground and had our food cooked before the waggons came up.  Being here on a considerable eminence, with a strong cool breeze blowing, we were not much troubled with musquitoes, but there was a sand-tick, like a small clock, that crawled all over us, finally fixing on delicate places, where they stuck themselves into the skin with a tenacity that tested the strength of the finger-nails in dislodging them.  There was nothing of the epicurean about them either, for they did not exhibit a partiality or preference for any one sample of blood over another, each individual being fully favoured with their patronage.  Our skins looked as if we spent the night under soot drops; but the worst of it was, they got established in legions in the buffalo robes, from which there was no combing of them.  I often heard the old say quoted, that "Poverty makes us acquainted with strange bedfellows;" but if I had any finger in the next edition of the Book of Proverbs, I would substitute "Travelling" for "Poverty," and maintain I would be fully warranted for the liberty with antiquity.</P>
053.sgm:<P>From the length of our daily journeys since we left Laramie, we thought it but fair-play to the animals to give them a day of comparative ease, by travelling slowly with the waggons; so next morning we permitted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>About three o'clock we came to a brackish stream, flowing through a level barren tract, surrounded with high hills, and covered with a thick plumage of artemesia.  Halting here, we gave the waggons another start; but just as we were in the act of mounting, after tying on our packs, a body of Crow Indians came down upon us at a sharp gallop.  The moment we perceived them, with one impulse every rifle was levelled against them, but I forbade the pulling of a trigger without orders.  They as instantly pulled up short, seeming to converse with one another.  There was one squaw amongst them, with a great head-dress of feather, and as well as we could count, thirty-seven men, all nobly mounted.  After a short conversation they came forward at a slow walk, making pacific signals of all sorts.  My comrades, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>I mounted my horse in the front, while the chief and two others advanced, one on each side and one right before me, he held out his hand, and as I returned the civility, dropping my rifle on the horn of my saddle, and poising it with my left hand, he seized it with a firm grasp, the fellow on the opposite side clutching the rifle; but as both our hands were moist from perspiration, I succeeded in freeing myself, and pulled my revolver from my belt, my left side opponent, at the same time laying the muzzle of an old carabine on my cheek, which providentially missed fire, while the savage in front seized hold of the bridle-rein; but the horse, excited by the bustle, reared from the restraint, and pawing out violently, struck him a severe blow, that unhorsed and disabled him.  Meantime, as I wheeled round, I saw the remainder of the band scuffling with my comrades, and others vainly endeavouring to drive off the mules from the horses; at length, as one of our party got a gash from a tomahawk, and our peril became pressing, Mr. D--e discharged a pistol, breaking the jaw of a savage, who set up a wild howl, and followed it up by firing another barrel, that took effect in the withers of an Indian horse, and sent him and his rider off in full retreat, followed closely by five or six others; the remainder <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:pausing to calculate their chances, were decided in their course by a joint discharge, which sealed the doom of one, and caused the others to fly.  Those who ran first, now turned, and fired three guns, one of which grazed S. M'Q--n on the cheek; but, from the extraordinary whizzing of their contents, I think they must have been loaded with stones, that did not present a smooth surface to the atmosphere.  In return for this we discharged two rifles, that brought another fellow down, and carried further dismay amongst them, were we to judge by the rapidity of their flight.  Of course we did not attempt pursuit; we had quite enough to do to get our mules together and rearrange our packs, several of which were thrown off and scattered in the <HI REND="italics">me&circ;le&acute;e</HI>
053.sgm:<P>While endeavouring to patch up, we saw our enemies watching us from the heights, which hurried our efforts at despatch, for fear they should come down upon us with a reinforcement; but it was a long hour before we could manage a start, and then at so slow and cautious a pace, lest our temporary fixings should give way, that I felt we could not come up with the waggons by sundown.  Knowing we were dogged, and could only escape by a <HI REND="italics">ruse</HI>
053.sgm:, when night came on we made a feint of camping, and lit a large fire, as if we intended settling for the night; but as soon as it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>On overhauling our trappings in the morning, we found them in such a sorry state it would have been madness to think of proceeding without a thorough repair; and in talking the matter dispassionately over again, we all agreed, as a funny fellow remarked, "that the Crows gave us <HI REND="italics">caws</HI>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>This day's journey was through a scorched-looking country, covered with volcanic debris, very thickly strewn in places, and the water, everywhere we met it, so strongly impregnated at one time with salt, at another with sulphur and alkali, that it was wholly unfit for use.  The sun was very hot, and we were correspondingly thirsty, when we came to a beautifully pellucid pond, from which issued a laughing, gurgling stream, that caused us all to hurry forward to bathe our shrivelled lips in its cool liquid; but, alas! we found it an arrant cheat, so thoroughly briny as to be altogether undrinkable: even the mules would not condescend to sip it; they, however, bathed themselves well in it by lying down, and seemed much refreshed by the operation.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The conical peaks of the Wind River range of snowy mountains were very visible this evening, as well as the indentation on the summit of the Rocky Mountains, which has got the name of the South Pass.  We passed several small lakes, which presented a very strange appearance to the untravelled eye, looking like large fields of frosted snow, but were thick incrustations of carbonate of soda, caused by the evaporation of the mineral waters.  It looked so beautifully pure, and tasted so well, we threw out all our chemical compounds, and supplied ourselves liberally with superior saleratus from this great natural laboratory, which we found made better bread than what we were in the habit of using.  Soon after leaving them, we struck the Sweetwater, a river of considerable magnitude, which we heard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>The Sweetwater is altogether a misnomer, being bitter of the two, carrying so much alkali in solution as to be destructive to fish.  Five or six miles beyond our camp it can&tilde;ons<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
053.sgm: through a perpendicular fissure, called Devil's Gate, where it rushes with great noise and velocity through its pent-up channel, along which there is no margin whatsoever, the rocks rising on each side about three hundred feet high.  We crossed the river ere we came thus far, where it spreads out on a shoal gravelly bed, enabling us to ford it without difficulty.  At the Devil's Gate we left the river, proceeding over a fertile level prairie, where we shot our last buffalo, and were near losing a horse (not our Buffalo horse) into the bargain; he got gored up the thigh, very narrowly escaping having the wound in the flank, where it would have been fatal.  Although rising and descending for several weeks over hills and rising ground, it was evident the balance was largely in favour of ascent, but from Independence Rock the upward incline was almost invariable, and much of the ground <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">Canon signifies a gorge.</NOTE>
053.sgm:<P>At noon we met the Sweetwater again, and were very much puzzled whether to cross and proceed up a narrow defile, where there were some traces of a trail, or keep on the side we were; at length we decided on remaining on the southern side, and fagged along till we came to a willowy dip of land, where we got grass and water.  Before we halted we saw through the glass some Indians crouched on the brow of a hill that lay to the left hand of our course, and as we got into a hollow that hid us temporarily from their view, six horsemen galloped round to outflank them; I kept my eye on them through the glass as we again came in sight, but they did not appear to suspect anything at the moment; very shortly, however, thirteen or fourteen of them jumped up and disappeared, at the next instant reappearing on horseback.  Plunging down the steep hill-side before us we galloped at them, raising a tremendous shout, that was taken up and echoed by our friends in the rear, so that the poor devils fancied themselves done for.  They rode like furies, jumping through the thick bushes of artemesia; but although we could readily have shot some of them, we had no idea of harming them, merely getting up the affair as a little pastime to keep the men's spirits from stagnating.  They dropped two fine robes, a black bearskin, some bows and arrows, and a couple of things that I think, from the way in which they fit the head, were intended for war-masks.</P>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We had this evening our first fire of artemesia, which throws out great heat, but is too quick for comfort.  It is a strange but benign provision of Providence, without which it would be a matter of extreme difficulty, if not entire impossibility, to cross the plains, that as the buffalo-chip becomes scarce the artemesia increases in abundance, and affords the unsheltered traveller a fire to cook his food, when no other fuel is within his reach upon the desert sands.  I suppose it is the prevalence of this shrub that stops the buffalo, for you cease to meet a single indication of his presence within the region where it prevails, their range in those latitudes being confined to the eastward of the Rocky Mountains, the only game that inhabits those vast and dreary wastes being the wary antelope.</P>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Lodge Pole-marks--Indian mode of Removing--Increase of Artemesia and Lizards--Fine View--South Pass--Contrast with the Imagination--Horse and Lodge Pole-marks--Cold Nights and Hot Days--Immense Indian Encampment--Our Feelings on seeing it--Move down to Camp on the River opposite them--Saluted by a White Man in our own Language--M. Vasquez, of Fort Bridger--Tells us they are Shoshonee, or Snake Indians--Their Character and Habits--Adopt the Salt Lake Route--Origin of Fort Bridger--M. Vasquez' Speculation--Imposing Corte&acute;ge--Trade with the Snakes--Enter the South Pass--The Pacific Springs--Thoughts of Home--Royal Bedfellow--Distance from Independence--Thoughts on Waggon Travel--Excitement of Travelling in New Countries--Severe Frost--Mountain Sickness--Appearance of the Country--Curious Buttes--The Little Sandy--Big Sandy--No Heath in America--Green River--Story of the Old Pawnee Mocassin.</P>
053.sgm:<P>NEXT day we got out of the deep sandy district into a light sandstone soil, covered with a short close herbage, the country very rolling, and some of the ascents very long, but excessively steep.  There was no timber at all within view, nor any feature or object that lent a common interest to the view, so far as scenery was concerned; but in the course of the morning we saw innumerable horse-prints and countless lodge-pole trails directly in our route, and travelling in the same direction.  Those we knew were the marks of a tribe of Indians, travelling with all their household goods to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We struck the Sweetwater again, rather early for stopping, but, as the feed was abundant, and we did not know how soon we should meet water again if we went on, we remained on its banks for the night, and damaged a good deal of our provisions in getting over it, as it proved much deeper than we expected.  There was no timber, but artemesia, of which we made our fragrant fires; but it was a perfume we were soon destined to get tired of and disgusted with.  The sand-tick were here in great force, and soon fastened an acquaintance on us; there were also immense numbers of small lizards flitting about, from which, however, we experienced no annoyance, as they are timid reptiles, and avoid the neighbourhood of man.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Although the days were oppressively warm, we had severe frosts at night, and even within our tents the hair on the edges of our robes were quite white.  In the mornings, at dawn, the brilliant sun sparkling on the hoar drapery of the distant Wind River range had a fine effect; but the inhospitable aspect of the dreary wastes of sage and sand, almost incapable of supporting aught else than insects and reptiles, cast a saddening gloom over the spirits.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The South Pass was now clearly distinguishable, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We had the horse-tracks and lodge-pole trails still ahead of us on our path, making, no doubt, for the pass too.  The country was much the same as yesterday, but the "indecent sun" kept "baking, broiling, burning on," though we were near 7000 feet above the heads of our numerous acquaintances and distant relations.  We made no noon stop, having had no temptation; nor, from appearances around, was there any prospect of better evening's fare.  So I sent (for be it known to you I was reinstated in my command) to examine the country, and find a good camping-ground, even were it out of our line, for it was impossible our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:animals could work unless their stamina was kept up by nutriment.  About four o'clock we saw them returning on the trail we were travelling, but could distinguish by their gait and air "our course <HI REND="italics">did not</HI>
053.sgm:<P>As we descended the slope towards the river I kept a sharp look-out through the glass, to see if they were preparing any hostile demonstration, but I discerned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>He told me we had better cross into the good pasture, as there was no danger to be apprehended, for though still in the Crow country, the tribe on the other side were the Shoshonee, or Snake Indians, a most peaceable, well-disposed people, who intermarry largely with the Crows, and that this party were now on their way to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>A lot of us spent the evening in M. Vasquez' quarters, who gave us minute details of the route to Fort Bridger, as by his advice we took that line to Salt Lake in preference to the Fort Hall, or northern route.  He is a Frenchman, the partner of Mr. Bridger, in the fort, or trading-post, which they established many years since, making a large fortune, in bartering their baubles for skins and valuable furs.  And now that they have achieved the object of their enterprise, they have contracted such a liking for life in the wilderness, to banish all desire of enjoying the luxuries their wealth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>Next morning our corte&acute;ge was an imposing one, for the Snakes packed up and accompanied us with their horses, and dogs, drawing their lodge-pole vehicles, their squaws slung round with pappooses, and the men mounted on their chargers, without any encumbrance but their arms or weapons.  They appeared quite proud of our company, and gave us several proofs of their skill as marksmen and their surpassing horsemanship.  As we went along, a young chief who had been practising with my rifle, succeeded so well he became quite enamoured of it, offering everything he possessed in exchange.  However I was disinclined to part with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>Our road was almost up-hill all day, but never so very steep as to require double teaming, nor so rough, as to convey a notion of the Rocky Mountains.  We got into the mouth of the pass early in the afternoon, which, as I have already described it, is a wide, smooth slope, with scarcely a rock or stone on its surface.  In some of the dips having a northern exposure, there were some faint vestiges of winter that another week would entirely obliterate; but digging to the depth of a few feet in wet spots, we came to a flag of ice as firm as a rock, which I think remains unthawed from season to season.  After getting fairly on the top level of the Pass, the trail is level for better than a mile, when it yields with a gentle inclination to the Pacific springs, the first water that holds a westward course towards the great ocean they are called after.  Here, with one accord, we halted, to gaze for the last time on the eastern hills and valleys of the Atlantic slope.  I strained my eyes, looking abstractedly towards the eastern horizon for the spires and steeples of Sligo, and the familiar faces of my old acquaintances; and as they all appeared on the camera obscura of my imagination I felt a pleasurable sadness that for the instant wholly absorbed me; but I was soon brought to "a sense of my situation" by three lusty cheers, given as a sort of adieu to our friends before descending into the valley <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We camped close to the springs on good pasture enough, with a few of the e&acute;lite of the Snakes, the great bulk having gone on with all the camp equipage, diverging at a sharp angle in a northerly course.  I gave the young chief a share of my couch, if only for the honour of being able to bequeath the proud boast, and leave it as "an heirloom in my family," that I slept with a royal bedfellow, descended from an ancient line of Potentates, who, ruling by the code of nature, never have their dynasty disturbed by innovation or revolution.  According to M. Vasquez we were here three hundred and twenty-five miles from Laramie, making our entire distance from Independence one thousand and twenty-five miles--rather a formidable stretch to look back upon as having been compassed without roads or bridges, over mountains, rivers, and swamps--and as I reflected on the temper I remember often to have evinced during the rapid change of horses in a fast mail, or the short stop to water a locomotive, I enquired whether I could be the same individual who contentedly plodded beside the lazy wheels of a ponderous waggon for a period of sixty days.  I would not have returned over the same track for any inducement, but the thousand miles in advance, like most mysteries or unseen wonders, were endowed with speculative charms conferring cheerful elasticity to the resolution, which made me regard them with curiosity rather than awe, notwithstanding the many disappointments the anticipative senses had already experienced.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We had a very severe frost in the night that caused <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We passed over several deep, dry ravines, through which the water floods take their course, and could see by their sides, where they were abruptly washed away, that there was no admixture of clay in the barren soil of the mountains; for at the depth of twenty feet it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We nooned next day at Big Sandy, a largish river, running between very high and steep sandbanks, fringed in places with willow; it is also a tributary of Green River.  Our route to it was an unvarying one of wild sage and sand, a disagreeable substitute for the rich brown heath and flowering heather which clothes our own mountain sides, and adorns them with its delicate bells of most beauteous floral organisation.  I never met any heath in my rambles, nor, from inquiries, do I believe it exists, on the American continent.  M. Vasquez said we would find a good camping stream between Big Sandy and Green River, but we travelled on till near midnight without happening to find it, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>The Ferrying of Green River--The Mode and Difficulty--The Hard Work swells our Invalid List--Dangerous Symptoms--Effects of the Mountain Fever--Extreme Heat--Bad Roads and Fatigue of Animals--Black's Fork of Green River--Scenery of the Wilderness--Fort Bridger--Purchase a Small Beef--Mr. Bridge's Kindness--Sage-Hens--The little Muddy--Waggon Accident--Visit from a small Party of Snakes--The Love of their Horses--Shaking Swamp--Another Waggon Accident--Bad River crossing--Drown a Mule--Crowd of Hills--Primitive Bridge--Fine Country--Shoot two Antelopes--Our old Tormentors--New Discovery--Slaughter of Rattle-Snakes--Midnight Indian Visit--Get into the Region of Snow--Slide down into a Narrow Valley--Great Anticipations of the Mormon City--Thunder Storm--Exciting Bear Hunt--Fright of the Animals--Distant View of the Mountains of the Salt Lake Valley--Romantic Scenery--Reflections--"The Jumping-off Place"--Unprecedented De&acute;scent--Comparison of the Dangers of a Fox Chase with such driving--Description of the Mormon Canon--Mormon Lime-burners.</P>
053.sgm:<P>WE had at Green River, one of the longest and most trying jobs of the entire journey, there being no ferry, and the ford being altogether impracticable from the height of the waters, which rushed past with tremendous velocity, while the river was over 250 yards wide.  In talking over the best and safest mode of crossing, some were in favour of a raft, others agreeing with me that it was only to be accomplished in a caulked waggon-bed; however, to prevent jealousy and grumbling, I allowed each section to take their own plan; and, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:unloading and dismounting my waggon, commenced caulking it with strips of calico, and ends of lampwick, melting pitch and resin over the seams; paddles we had, and made a long steering oar from the limb of a Cotton-wood tree the others cut down for their raft.  We were ready for sea by dinner time, and launched our bark, making her fast till we despatched that meal; however, notwithstanding all our pains, she made a good deal of water, which we strove to deal with, by stowing below the articles that suffered least damage from wet, taking in only a moderate cargo for the first, casting off with two stout fellows at the paddles, and myself at the helm.  But before we got properly at work, we were whirled round and round in the curling eddies, and hurried down with fearful rapidity.  Still we continued to make a gradual offing as well as a great deal of water, and touched the opposite shore a long way down, in a waterlogged state.  After unloading, we had a long and tough pull up stream, to a bend which we selected as our port of departure, homeward bound, and made rather a better landing than the other, but still very low down, involving another trying pull up.  But as the paddling, discharging, and pulling up was too much for the ferrymen, instead of a cargo I made the next trip, carrying four hands for that duty on the other side.  It took six trips to get over the contents of my waggon, together with the harness, wheels, hounds, axles, poles, and couplings, by which time we were completely knocked up, and the day spent; so leaving the four men beyond in charge, we devoted the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Two of them were on the sick list before night, and a third (myself) felt very unwell.  We got over the animals without accident, though five were swept down at least a mile; it occupied us till night remounting our waggons and repacking them.  The following morning the two sick men were in high fever, and having no person amongst us who had even a smattering of medicine (perhaps a fortunate circumstance), I became very uneasy; bleeding was strongly urged, but I had recourse alone to low diet and cooling aperients, which produced so good an effect, that within three days they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We kept ploughing on through sage and sand all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We reached the plain on which Fort Bridger stands early next day, and, as we emerged from the atmosphere of artemesia and got good water, together with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We purchased a small fat beef for twenty dollars, being very much in want of fresh meat now that we were so long out of the buffalo range, and enjoyed the luxury of some regular roast joints, having been given the use of the kitchen.  Mr. Bridger, though not forty years of age, has had more experience as a mountaineer than any other dweller amongst them, as he not only traded with the Indians at the fort, but, taking a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We left Fort Bridger early in the morning of the third day after our arrival, wonderfully recruited and recovered, and the animals as well, with a fresh stock of pluck and vigour.  The hills immediately bounding the plain are thickly covered with fine cedar, whose rich, deep-green foliage, had a pleasing influence on the eye.  Winding through its groves we gained the top, from which the land stretched away, without a dip or inclination, as if the plain below was an excavation rather than the sweep of an undulation.  We soon again got into the regions of sage, which I believe, from the force of imagination, caused some of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We deferred our nooning beyond the usual hour, seeing indications of a valley ahead, where we hoped to strike a stream, called The Little Muddy, in the neighbourhood of which, Mr. Bridger said, we would find good grass.  The descent was very steep, strewed over with loose round stones, which coming in contact with the locked wheels, often swayed round the waggons, to the imminent risk of their overturning.  The plain below was richly covered with fine succulent grasses and beautiful flowers; large sycamores and cotton wood trees, standing in irregular rows along the river, which is most appropriately christened, its sludgy bed being composed of such adhesive stuff.  We snapped two sets of traces in getting the waggons over.  We did not travel long up it, crossing a bluff at right angles, precisely corresponding with the one we so lately descended, where we had an accident that disabled for the present a span of our best mules; one of the waggons, meeting a round stone on the pinch of a steep ascent, checked the team so badly, that they gave way, and, once getting a downward impulse, it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We had a visit at our camp this evening from a small party of Snakes, who brought some antelope meat for trade, and led along a couple of screws on which the crows (I don't mean the Crow Indians) had a mortgage, and served notice of foreclosure.  We got the meat for a little powder, but declined entering into any negotiation for their used-up horses.  One of them was riding a superb milk-white animal with flowing mane and tail, the beau ideal of a field-marshal's charger; but as I walked round admiring him, with the intention of making an offer, divining my intention, he shook his head, laughed, and galloped away, least I might tempt him to part with his noble favourite--stooping over his crest, and affectionately patting him on the neck with an attachment similar to that recorded of the Bedouin Arabs.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Soon after starting next morning we came to a swampy bottom that could not be crossed by a man with snow shoes, much less a loaded waggon; but as the trail went directly over it, and the craggy hills did not admit of any other exit, we set to work cutting brush and wattles, strewing them thickly on the surface to prevent the wheels cutting in.  It answered admirably in this respect, but the small narrow hoofs of the mules <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We next got into a narrow but fertile valley, hemmed in with hills, through which Bear River flows, a belt of timber with a thick copse of blossoming shrubs, and beds of budding wild geranium marking its course.  The banks were low and level on each side of it, but the current was very rapid, and the bottom composed of large round loose stones, which were slippery, and turned under the tread.  The depth of water rendered it necessary to prop up the waggon-beds; and, to prevent the lead mules from swerving with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We travelled along the river for a few miles, and then passed through a deep defile into a brambly hollow, where the trail was almost entirely blinded and over-grown, but we tore our way through directly for a turn of the opposite rise, around which it was more plainly discernible.  This brought us into a mob of hills, ascending and descending at perilous gradients, with barely fifty yards at a time of level pulling.  They were verdant and grassy; and although we did not see any animals about, they looked as if they were fed over and cropped, the tips of the blades not being positively in the state that nature left them.  After three hours' tossing amongst those ground-swells, we came into an open alluvial <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>On this rude bridge we commenced at daylight carrying over; and working with a will, as the sailors term it, had the waggons across and reloaded while a person with a hesitation in his speech would be uttering the all-familiar name of Mr. John Robinson, more generally called Jack by a presuming public.  We had a lovely forenoon's drive over a magnificent country swelling in graceful undulations, and robed in the most gorgeous garniture of nature, with herbage so close and deep in some places as to offer considerable obstruction to progress.  In the course of the day we shot two antelope in prime order, their thighs shaking in masses of flesh like the cheeks of the fat boy in "Pickwick."  At a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The entire length of the valley, though not over five miles, occupied us till late noon, for we had to cross the stream no less than fifteen times in that distance; and as we got down towards the end it became very troublesome indeed, putting us to the bother of cutting tracks on each side for the going in and out, which, from the height of the banks and the narrowness of the stream, required to be carried back with a long slant, to guard against accidents.  After crossing it the last time, we got into a dense willow scrub, through which it was very difficult to pass even on horseback, and at the mouth the valley became contracted betwixt a pair of great sandstone jaws, formed by lofty rugged cliffs, barely leaving room, with the nicest pilotage, for getting out between their base and the river edge.  We now began to ascend a chain of hills that abutted against a very high mountain range covered with snow, over which our route lay, which we ascended slowly, in serpentine mazes, till we came to a small lake of clear, well-tasted water, with good grass, around which we took up our lodgings for the night; but were here again obliged to have recourse to the grease, else abandon our position to the musquitoes; the snakes were so exceedingly numerous, none of us felt inclined to sleep: even the men on guard were nervous, lest in trampling on one in the dark they should get bitten.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We were near having human blood shed during the night, for as the second watch came in to be relieved they found six Indians sitting round the embers of the fire, and would have shot at them, only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The trail was admirably chosen, and turned up the steepest ascent with an easy inclination that would have done credit to the most civil engineer.  The firm surface, too, without being so very smooth as to render footing uncertain, presented no obstacle whatever to the wheels, so that we got on capitally, reaching the summit of the snow ridges by four o'clock.  From this we descended to a long spur jutting out in a westerly direction, and went along its edge or back for three or four miles, without any feeling of insecurity, for its sides, though steep, were thickly timbered, shutting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>During the night we had a very severe thunderstorm, which for awhile I thought was going to annihilate us, as a vivid flash of lightning would shoot forth, pointing out where we were all ensconced, and then a peal of thunder would come rumbling down the pent-up glen, as if it would crush us under its wheels.  It was very grand, I admit, but I always preferred reading of those sublime phenomena to looking on at the affair; for, although we had several very imposing reviews of celestial artillery since we set out, I some way or other succeeded in persuading myself that they were only firing blank cartridge, until the present occasion; however, we all providentially escaped, unless it were a spent ball that scored one of our mules along the thigh.</P>
053.sgm:<P>About dawn of day the guard, attracted by a noise amongst some cedars in our rear, caused by heavy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:trampling and crackling of branches, ran down, supposing them to be pimping Indians; but the sound ceased as they came abreast of it, when one of them ventured into the scrub to see what it was, and sung out, with all the strength of his lungs, "A bear!--a bear!" which soon brought us all to his side.  We could not see him clearly in the grey light, but form the noise now and then we knew exactly where he was; so some went below, others above, and more in the open space, and kept closing up, the heights at his back being too steep to ascend.  As we narrowed our circle, expecting to have him hemmed in in the centre, we saw the gentleman climbing, hand over hand, up amongst the stumps and brambles that grew from the side; but three or four shots, simultaneously fired at him, made him drop down, not in one fall, but in a rapid succession of descents from branch to branch; and thinking he was wounded, we spread ourselves out a little lest he should attack any too close to him.  As soon as he got fairly down he looked fiercely around him for an instant, some blood being apparent on his right shoulder, and then charged determinedly up the glen, soon making a gap for his retreat, in which he was sheltered from aim by the trees and underbrush.  We all gave chase and tongue, creating such a tumult in this lonely place as was never heard there since the flood, which caused him to break cover for the greater facilities of escape, running up the green lea where the animals were grazing, who, as soon as they saw him, snorted, brayed, and neighed, and, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We travelled through the twists and sinuosities of the glen for six or seven miles, and at length reached an expansive hollow, that in Ireland would go by the name of "a punch-bowl," but the one in question bore about the same proportion to the Milesian utensil as the continent does to the island; the hills around it were both high and steep, and tried the mettle of the mules to the utmost, for they could not proceed over ten yards without a rest, two men being in readiness to block up the wheels, and two more to jump on the front spokes.  By this intermitting process we got to the top after an hour and a half's hard tugging, where we took a good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>I knew our trail intersected the mountains in a westerly course, still I could not see any split or open in their sides that looked like a pass or an indentation along the ridge that had a practicable look, and was obliged to leave the solution of the difficulty for the present, in accordance with the maxim in such cases, having besides quite enough to engage my undivided thought and attention; for we came to a brow, called by a wag "the jumping-off place," where parachutes might be brought into requisition, the drop being so quick and so long that it appeared an undertaking of hopeless impossibility to get down in the ordinary way.  Locking could produce only a trivial effect on such a declivity, where the flat waggon-beds, taken off the wheels altogether, would run down in a slide.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The vale or glen was precisely the shape of a V, densely wooded, the trail lying along the bottom, which was rugged, from being torn up by the torrents at times, and at every hundred yards or so presented a barrier in a ponderous trunk or branch lying across it, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Gratification at meeting a White Man--Doubt our having come the whole way this Season--Exchange Tumblers of Brandy-Punch for Letters of Introduction--Our being mostly Foreigners ensured us a kinder reception--Meet more Mormons--A little Tobacco procures us a great desideratum--Emerge into open air--First View of the Salt Lake Valley--Its appearance--The City of the Mormons--Their Hospitality--Dancing Party--Polygamy and Platonism--Fresh Meat, and in abundance--Any Price or anything for Coffee and Sugar--Neatness and convenience of Mormon Houses--Promise of an abundant Harvest--Wonders worked in so short a Settlement--Great quantity of Stock--Get all Repairs done--Natural hot Baths--The Temple--The Congregation--The Proceedings--The Sermon--Impressions of Mormon Godliness--Civil Government--Mormon Jealousy--The Population in the Valley--Extreme Heat of it--Swarms with Crickets--T. T. L. Visits--Amiability of the Ladies. I SHALL not soon forget the emotions which possessed me on seeing, so unexpectedly, the face of a strange white man, and they also seemed overcome by feelings of agreeable astonishment as we hastened towards each other with outstretched hands, greeting one another like old acquaintances.  They were habited in buckskin suits, and had a weatherbeaten look, that showed they were familiar with exposure.  It was a long time before we could convince them we came from the States that year; they thought we must have wintered at Laramie, and come on in the spring; but, amongst other means of assurance, an Independence paper, dated April 7th, removed their scepticism, while it augmented their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We were still twelve miles from the mouth of the can&tilde;on, as they call it, but the road was considerably better than that we had already passed, as the Mormons come thus far for their timber and lime, and for their own convenience made it more travelable.  Our reception was the more cordial from our being mostly all foreigners, and not obnoxious to the prejudice they naturally entertain against Americans, who destroyed their first city, and banished them to this remote location.  They expected to have many of their little wants supplied from our waggons, for which they were prepared either to give a liberal trade in any article they possessed, or a high price in gold dust, with which they were all well supplied.</P>
053.sgm:<P>After starting next morning we met five ox-waggons and a party of Mormons coming from the city for timber, who were likewise astonished at our expedition, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Here again I was doomed to great disappointment, for instead of a charming valley, beautifully diversified with wood and water, there was a bald, level plain, extending over to the base of the Utah range on the other side, without bush or bramble to cast a shade from the scorching rays of a flaming sun, that blazed with twofold intensity, reflected by the lofty ranges by which the plain is bounded.  Some miles to the north lay the Great Salt Lake, glistening in radiance like a sheet of crystals, in strange contrast with the dark and sombre Utah range that stretch along its western shores.  At first the city was not visible, but on passing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We were soon discovered coming down the slope, and as we entered the precincts of the town the inhabitants came to the front of their houses, but showed no disposition to open an acquaintance account, believing us to be an exclusively American caravan.  So soon, however, as they were undeceived, they came about us in great numbers, enquiring what we had to dispose of.  They were neat and well clad, their children tidy, the rosy glow of health and robustness mantling on the cheeks of all, while the softer tints of female loveliness prevailed to a degree that goes far to prove those "Latter-Day Saints" have very correct notions of angelic perfectability.  We politely declined several courteous offers of gratuitous lodging, selecting our quarters in a luxuriant meadow at the north end of the city; but had not our tents well pitched when we had loads of presents--butter, milk, small cheeses, eggs, and vegetables, which we received reluctantly, not having any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:equivalent returns to make, except in money, which they altogether declined; in fact, the only thing we had in superabundance were preserved apples and peaches, a portion of which we presented to one of the elders, who gave a delightful party in the evening, at which all our folk were present.  We found a very large and joyous throng assembled; the house turned inside out to make more room on the occasion, with gaiety, unembarrassed by ceremony, animating the whole, making me almost fancy I was spending the evening amongst the crowded haunts of the old world, instead of a sequestered valley lying between the Utah and Timpanago mountains.  After tea was served,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>There were the sounds of dancing feet<LB>Mingling with the tones of music sweet;</HI>
053.sgm:<P>or, as Dermot Mac Fig would say,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>We shook a loose toe,<LB>While he humoured the bow;</HI>
053.sgm:<P>keeping it up to a late hour, perfectly enraptured with the Mormon ladies, and Mormon hospitality.</P>
053.sgm:<P>I was not aware, before, that polygamy was sanctioned by their creed, beyond a species of etherial platonism which accorded to its especial saints chosen partners, called "spiritual wives;" but I now found that these, contrary to one's ordinary notions of spiritualism, give birth to cherubs and unfledged angels.  When our party arrived, we were introduced to a staid, matronly-looking lady as Mrs. ****; and as we proceeded up the room, to a blooming young creature, a fitting mother for a celestial progeny, as the other Mrs. ****, without any worldly or spiritual distinction whatsoever.  At first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>On Saturday morning we had a very early levee at our tents, with fresh milk, butter, fowls, and eggs, and a light waggon in attendance, with a side of beef, a carcase of mutton and a veal, all of superior quality; the latter articles for sale professionally, but certainly on most moderate terms, the prime joints not averaging over one penny per pound.  The other matters we were forced to accept, and gave to the donors what we could afford of coffee, sugar, and tobacco, which were not to be had in the city for the last two months.  In addition to those timely presents, we got all our washing done in the very best style of art.  After breakfast we went out returning visits, and were most graciously received in every quarter.  The houses are small, principally of brick, built up only as temporary abodes, until the more urgent and important matter of enclosure and cultivation are attended to; but I never saw anything to surpass the ingenuity of arrangement with which they are fitted up, and the scrupulous cleanliness with which they are kept.  There were tradesmen and artisans of all descriptions, but no regular stores, or workshops, except forges.  Still, from the shoeing of a waggon to the mending of a watch, there was no difficulty experienced in getting it done, as cheap and as well put out of hand as in any other city in America.  Notwithstanding the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>On Sunday morning early we went to the hot springs, a mile beyond the town, where the authorities were erecting a handsome and commodious building, and had a glorious bath, in sulphur water, at a temperature just as high as could be comfortably endured, drinking, too, of the stream as it gushed from the hill-side in a thick volume, being told it possessed certain medicinal properties of which we all stood in need.  The Mormons make a boast of their good health, and attribute it to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>After bathing, we dressed in our best attire, and prepared to attend the Mormon service, held for the present in the large space adjoining the intended temple, which is only just above the foundations, but will be a structure of stupendous proportions, and, if finished according to the plan, of surpassing elegance.  I went early, and found a rostrum, in front of which there were rows of stools and chairs for the townfolk; those from the country, who arrived in great numbers in light waggons, sitting on chairs, took up their stations in their vehicles in the background, after unharnessing their horses.  There was a very large and most respectable congregation; the ladies attired in rich and becoming costume, each with parasols; and I hope I may say, without any imputation of profanity, a more bewitching assemblage of the sex it has rarely been my lot to look upon.  Before the religious ceremony commenced, five men mounted the rostrum, who were, as I learned, the weekly committee of inspection.  The chairman read his general report of the prospects and proceedings of the colony, and then read a list of those deserving of particular commendation for their superior husbandry, the extent of their fencing, and other improvements, which was followed by the black list, enumerating the idle, slothful, and unimproving portion of the community, who were held up to reprobation, and threatened, in default of certain tasks allotted them being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:finished at the next visit, to be deprived of their lots, and expelled the community.  The reading of these lists produced an evident sensation, and, I am satisfied, stimulate the industrious to extra exertion, and goad the lazy to work in self-defence.  This over, another, "the gentleman in black," got up, and, without any form of service or prefatory prayer, read aloud a text from the Book of Mormon, and commenced a sermon, or discourse, "de multis rebus et quibusdam aliis," taking a fling at the various other religions, showing them up by invidious comparison with the creed of the valley.  He then pointed out the way to arrive at Mormon sanctity, in which there was nothing objectionable as laid down, and exhorted the congregation, not only as they valued their salvation, but their crops, to so demean themselves, and endeavour to propitiate the favour and indulgence of the Supreme Being, calling to mind that, in the year of righteousness (last year) he sent seagulls, a bird never before known to visit the valley, to devour the crickets, who would otherwise, from their numbers, have annihilated all vegetation.<ANCHOR ID="n13-1">*</ANCHOR>
053.sgm: He then adverted to the barbarous treatment they received at the hands of the Americans, forgetting to avow his charitable forgiveness, and expressed a belief that their avarice would yet induce them to covet their possession in Salt Lake; but he entertained a hope that the Mormons by that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1">It is surprising the Mormons, who are, as a class, a most astute and reasoning people, can be gulled and gammoned after this fashion, for seagulls are met all across the plains, and were seen in the valley the first time Colonel Fremont visited it, in 1845, two years before the Mormons thought of settling there.</NOTE>
053.sgm:<P>With this ended the entire ceremony, and began a simultaneous series of greetings and salutations amongst town and country folk, which led to luncheons, and dinners, and all manner of civilities, and tender <HI REND="italics">te&circ;te-a&grave;-te&circ;tes</HI>
053.sgm:, until evening, when another sermon was delivered, which ended the religious duties of the day.  I can't say I was much impressed with the sanctity or sincerity of the preachers; nor did it appear to me, from the deportment of the congregation, that any very devotional feeling pervaded them; for with all the affected contempt for worldly wealth and pleasure, they appear to me to pursue the one with as active a zeal, and enjoy the other with as little restraint, as any other sect of professing religionists I have ever become acquainted with.  The affairs of church and state here go strictly hand-in-hand, the elders of the church being the magistrates and functionaries in all civil and criminal matters, the framers of the law and chancellors of the exchequer, with whom it is expected that every member of the community will lodge whatever wealth they may acquire beyond their immediate wants, taking treasury notes of acknowledgment.  This the law strictly requires, on pain of expulsion and forfeiture; but I have heard several grumble at it; and I understand it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There are no written laws amongst them; but trespasses, outrages, and such matters, are taken cognizance of by the elders, and adjudicated on summarily, according to conscience, fines and public flogging being the punishments most in vogue.  The authorities have a mint, from which they issue gold coin only; it is plain, but massive, without any alloy.  I only saw two amounts, 5 and 10 dollar-pieces, with the amount on one side and the date of issue on the other, without any emblem or device whatsoever.  I got every information I believe they possessed relative to the new route to California; but to make assurance doubly sure, I was anxious to procure a guide who had travelled over the line, and engaged a man, with the consent and approval of my party.  However, when it came to the ears of the rulers they forbade his leaving; for I believe they are apprehensive that the golden inducements of that rich country might empty the valley of its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There are, as far as I could learn or judge, about 5000 inhabitants in the town, and 7000 more in the settlements, which extend forty miles each way--north to the Weber, and south towards Utah Lake.  The valley, at its greatest width, is not over fifteen miles, and I think seven would be a fair average: its soil is a rich black loam, and is watered, besides the Jordan, which flows through its centre from Utah to Salt Lake, by innumerable springs of good water, and streamlets flowing from the snowy mountains; but it has a naked bleak look, for want of timber, which renders the effects of the sun next thing to unbearable.  The city is situated on the south-cast end of the lake, about nine miles from its shores; but I think a much more eligible site might have been chosen, where the land would have been equally fertile, the climate fully as salubrious, and timber, which they exclusively burn, much more convenient, for at present they have to bring it from twelve to fifteen miles over a bad road.  The whole neighbourhood swarms with crickets of an enormous size, having a body as large as a mouse, and extraordinary long legs, which enable them to jump inconceivable distances; they do not, however, relish jumping over water; so that by making a small cut round the tillage fields, and letting water into it, those destructive insects are prevented marring industry--a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The evening of Sunday was glorious, after the broad red disk of the sun sunk behind the Utah range.  A gentle breeze, wafted off the sparkling surface of the great Salt Lake, came down the valley with a deliciously refreshing effect, inviting abroad the inhabitants, who promenaded about our camp, and came into our tents to pay their farewell visits, as we intended starting in the morning.  There was a large proportion of ladies amongst them, who appeared to reciprocate the admiration conceived for them by several members of our company; remaining till an advanced hour, reiterating their last fond words, the golden treasures of California being forgotten for the time in the lures of "metal more attractive;" and it even looked as if the charms of Mormonism, through the spells of its female votaries, was about to thin our ranks--bearing out the dramatist's remark, that, not as other emotions which require time to germinate and mature, "love, like a mushroom, springs up in a night."</P>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Effects of the Tender Passion--Early Start--Boiling Springs--The Great Salt Lake--Its Appearance--Analysis of its Waters--Its Peculiarities--Comfort of the Mormon Agriculturists--The Cricket Nuisance--More Wives Spiritual and Temporal--Change our System of Travel--The Weber--Obliged to ferry over our Loads--Mr. Goodyear's Farm--Thick Jungle--The Ogden--Fine View--Heat of the Sun--Water before Gold--Fierce Insects--Signal Fires--Bear River--Surprised to find Men in the act of launching a Boat--Musquitoes--Lose a Horse and Mule in the Ferry--Our Camp-ground--Take a more Westerly Course--Scarcity of Fresh Water--Salt Streams Hot and Cold side by side--Send out Scouts to look for Water--Their protracted Absence--Our Sufferings--Come to Water at last--Shoot an Indian--Lamentable Necessity for such Rigour--Last View of the Great Salt Lake--The Broad-axe Guard--Desolation and Solitude. THOUGH early astir next morning, there were those in the city whose wakeful eyelids anticipated the sun; and lest there should be a repetition of the melodramatic performances of yesterday evening, I got the waggons into motion at once, and moved off from the isolated metropolis of the Latter-Day Saints, deeply impressed with gratitude for their kindness and hospitality, with admiration for their energy and industry, but with no very elevated respect for their creed, or the ethical discipline of their social institutions.  Our road passed along by the hot springs, where we had a regimental lavabo, performed in double quick.  About four miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Here, with some others, I turned down to visit the lake, but could not well get as far as its waters, from the combined incrustations of muriate and carbonate of soda that covered the flat shores for a great distance from the edge, through which the horses sank nearly knee deep, and could not be induced to proceed.  As the wind came off the lake it carried with it a mineral stench arising from the stagnant water close along the brink, which was offensive to the utmost degree; and, although the breeze was a brisk one, it scarcely ruffled the surface of the sluggish lake, the water, from its great specific gravity, being difficult to disturb, for, carrying in solution its full complement of salt, it requires a storm to set it in anything like commotion.  Colonel Fremont, who analysed it, gives the following description and result:</P>
053.sgm:<P>"The Great Salt Lake has a very irregular outline, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:greatly extended at times of melting snows.  It is about seventy miles in length, ranging nearly north and south, in conformity to the range of mountains, and is remarkable for its predominance of salt.  The whole lake waters seem thoroughly saturated with it, and every evaporation of water leaves salt behind.  The rocky shores of the islands are whitened with spray, which leaves salt on everything it touches; and a covering like ice forms over the water, which the waves throw among the rocks.  The shores of the lake in the dry season, when the waters recede, and especially on the south side, are whitened with incrustations of fine white salt, the shallow arms of the lake, at the same time, under a slight covering of shining water, presents beds of salt for miles, resembling softened ice, into which horses' feet sink above the fetlocks.  Plants and bushes, blown by the wind upon those fields, are entirely encrusted with crystalised salt, more than an inch in thickness; upon this lake of salt the fresh water received, though great in quantity, has no perceptible effect.  No fish or animal life of any kind is to be found in it, the <HI REND="italics">larvae&aelig;</HI>
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053.sgm:<P>Chloride of sodium (common salt)<HSEP>97  80 parts.<LB> Chloride of calcium<HSEP>0  61  "<LB> Chloride of magnesium<HSEP>0  24  "<LB> Sulphate of soda<HSEP>0  23  "<LB> Sulphate of lime<HSEP>1  12  "<LB> 100  00" "</P>
053.sgm:<P>It has not been ever regularly explored or surveyed, and is variously stated to be from seventy to one hundred miles in length; but as far as I could judge, by the time it took me to round its northern extremity, I should be inclined to set it down at eighty, without a single tree or shrub to adorn its bleak shores for the entire length.  There are several fertile islands on it, and one very large one, on which the Mormons told me they had as many as seven thousand head of oxen.  Bear River and the Weber, which previously receives the waters of the Ogden, empty themselves into it, and although both at that point are large rivers, they produce scarcely any freshening effects, save at the point of disemboguement.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The range of mountains to the eastward of the valley inclined to eastward as we proceeded up it, the land to their base being of the most fertile character, settled by Mormons, who have fine herds, extensive tillage tracts, and comfortable homesteads.  I called at many of them, and found them neat and commodious, well but plainly furnished, and the inhabitants civil, communicative, and obliging.  The crickets are a serious nuisance, for the ground is alive with them; and they are not only destructive where they have their way, but the effluvia they emit is about as disgusting a sample of scent as any to be met with.  Though they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Our camp this evening was eighteen miles from the city, on the grounds of a man whom I recognised as a visitor when encamped there.  He was particularly attentive, placing everything on his premises at our disposal.  He had a snug and well-furnished cottage, and seemed to enjoy the greatest domestic beatitude in the society of his wives, spiritual and temporal; never, as he told me, coming in for any squalls, as the ladies expended all their foul air on each other.  He had most thriving crops, which he and all the settlers up the valley manage to irrigate, without any trouble, by leading little ducts into their lands from the numerous rivulets that issue from the mountains.  They have the advantage of having fine timber close at hand, and bushes scattered about that suffice as a shade for the cattle.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The heat of the weather now became so intense, I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:forced to alter the routine of our daily movements by breakfasting before the dawn, starting at the first light, and nooning from eleven till two o'clock, when those who felt so disposed might take a nap, allowing the animals to lie by during the noonday glare, and travelling again, to an advanced hour in the evening, by which we made as long distances with infinitely less distress to both men and mules.  Next morning we commenced our new system, though some, who eagerly acquiesced in it the evening before, turned out with a reluctant growl at the early summons.  The country, in the early part of the day, was elevated and sandy, with a stock of crickets that made the animals stare with bewilderment, as if they were afraid to go amongst them.  We happened to hit a very inviting spot at the nooning hour, and with all our abhorrence of the crickets, were all very soon, with the exception of the day-guard, stretched in unconscious slumbers amongst them.  In our evening's drive, the country again resumed its fertile aspect, and was enlivened by the habitations of the scattered settlers; our trail then took a decided bend towards the mountain, in the direction of a belt of timber, which we conjectured skirted the Weber, which river we reached in good time, but were taken aback by seeing, from the lofty overhanging bank, it was both deep and rapid; there was, however, in one place, a low, gravelly island that we were enabled to get to without much trouble, and thence to the other bank was narrow enough to admit of having a permanent rope passed over and made fast at both sides, by which means we pulled across in a direct line, without nearly the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We formed our camp at the end of a large marsh, close to the residence of Mr. Goodyear, a wealthy Mormon, who has an extensive breeding station there for stock of every description, amongst which he had the largest flock of goats I ever saw.  His house, offices, stables, &amp;c., &amp;c., formed a large square of handsome and substantial log-buildings, and had every requisite and convenience for such an establishment, which is the last in the line of the northern settlement.  He was preparing to drive a large caballada of horses and mules for the Californian market, with which he intended travelling himself in ten or twelve days; could he have started at an earlier period I would have been disposed to await his company, but we expected by that time to be at the source of Humboldt River.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We got a fresh supply of cheese and butter here, and a good mutton for every two waggons; but I rather suspect, when Mr. Goodyear arose the next morning, he was surprised to find we had already started.  Though early at work we did not advance much for some hours, the ground over which the trail lay being soft and swampy, with banks of thick jungle that had never before been penetrated, through which we had to force a passage.  About eight miles from Mr. Goodyear's we crossed the Ogden, a nice clear stream, which takes its name from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There was a splendid view from here of the Great Salt Lake, the plain, back towards the city, and away to the north-west in the course we were to follow.  There was nothing picturesque in the plain itself: but the lofty mountains, with their hoary glistening peaks, piercing the soft blue azure vault of the heavens, whose canopy was unobscured by speck, or cloud, or film, had a soul-elevating effect on us poor pigmies, who crept along their mighty base, like ants beneath the side-wall of a stately edifice.  The sun, so early as ten o'clock, was so fearfully hot that I could not bear my hand upon the rifle that was slung from the horn of the saddle; and soon after it became so intense that two men got suddenly ill, and had to be placed in the waggons, suffering, I suppose, from what is called the effects of a sun-stroke.  This was by far the most sultry day we had yet, and it happened, unfortunately, that at the nooning hour we were miles remote from shade or water, struggling on in a gasping state for nearly two hours, until we came to a river, made up of mountain torrents, that descended directly from the snowy ridges, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There was here a genus of gigantic fly, which attacked the horses with a degree of ferocity that I did not conceive could belong to the insect race.  It darted at them with a humming whizz, perforating the skin the moment they came in contact with it, as if their lance was inserted by the impetus, in some places letting out a perfect jet of blood.  The poor brutes were driven off the feed in amongst the scrub, and some of them, in their pain and terror, ran furiously back the trail, giving us a long walk to recover them, which we would have gladly excused, if possible; but as the cool air of the evening set in those insect-monsters disappeared, and in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The watch throughout the night saw several fires at high elevations on the shelves of the mountains, along which we were travelling, and also on the Utah range opposite, which we knew proceeded from Indians, and looked like signal-fires betokening a gathering; but having heard nothing very unfavourable of the Utah tribe from the Mormons, I felt disposed to place them to the account of ordinary camping-fires: not so, however.  The majority of the company insisted they were regular signal tokens answered all around, that showed preparations were making in concert to intercept and attack us.  In consequence of my mistake about the Crows I did not combat the opinion, but took such steps as if the danger really impended, more particularly as it did not impede us an iota.  We still continued our course along the base of the mountains, but got into a flat broken country, cut up with sloughs and half-dry channels, caused by the seasonal inundations, most of which were soft and sludgy, rendering our path so tortuous, that for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:two hours we had not advanced over a mile.  When we did get on higher ground we could see the line indicating the course of Bear River, which we reached by noon; and on arriving at the edge of the high banks which look down upon the tule marshes that run along it, were astonished at seeing below a waggon with four yoke of oxen, and some white men in the act of returning from the other side in a boat. At first it puzzled us to think who they were, or where they could be from; but as I rode down to make enquiries, I had a most familiar salutation from one of them, who said, "I did not expect you before to-morrow evening."  I now saw they were from Salt Lake city, about to establish a ferry, in expectation that other sections of the emigration would follow our track; but their boat was a very small and frail one for that purpose.  "How on earth will you be able to live here during the summer months?"  I observed, seeing them tearing the musquitoes from their cheeks with both hands. "Well," said the captain of the party, "they are <HI REND="italics">purty</HI>
053.sgm: damn bad here I admit, but when you get over yonder they'll give you particular h--ll."  Poor comfort thinks I, as they arose in shoals from the rushes, literally blinding us.  I had not before seen them appear in such formidable force of a morning, and I would gladly have submitted to a round of fifty miles rather than undergo the infliction we were doomed to endure while employed in the tedious task of transporting our waggons and luggage, if there was any assurance we would thereby escape.  We, however, went at it with that "do or die" determination with which fellows mount the ladders of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We met at about five miles from the river a narrow deep stream, where we fixed our quarters, and were consoled for the want of wood by the absence of our enemy, there being no reedy margin for them to breed in.  In the morning we fancied we had nothing to do but cross straight over--a very illusory idea, as it turned out seven feet deep; nor could we find a practicable spot, insignificant as it appeared, until after a detour of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Shortly after midnight, there being tolerably good light, we set forward, hoping to find fresh water for breakfast.  The trail was easy, but at daylight we were no better off than at our start.  The men got very much disheartened, and I felt, too, uneasy and distressed, and sent out every horseman in quest of the simple but indispensable necessary, determined, no matter how remote from our route it might be discovered, to go to it.  Eight o'clock came, and no horsemen returned; ten o'clock came, yet none were in view, and even the burning meridian arrived without a prospect of relief.  My eyeballs got sore from straining, for I never before watched with such nervous anxiety--they were moments of fearful suspense.  At length a gleam of hope arose, as I saw two horsemen on the western heights.  They must, I thought, surely have found water; but then their slow, dejected gait did not portend glad tidings.  I raised my hat, and hailed them aloud.  They saw and heard me, yet they neither made a motion nor quickened their pace.  The truth was too sadly apparent--it was now approaching the limits of endurance.  The teamsters sank listlessly in their saddle, whilst the fierce sun almost crackled in intensity, producing a reeling sensation and a dimness of vision, as if dissolution was supervening, when, like the noise in a dream, I thought I heard the sounds of horses approaching at speed, and making an effort to acquire my consciousness, saw Mr. H--y at hand to announce our merciful deliverance.  He told us the water was yet four miles off; but the knowledge that it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It was past three o'clock when the waggons got up--rather a fashionable hour for breakfast; and although the water was cool and clear, it was not wholly free from a saline flavour; but from the fatigues and privations of the morning, and those of the previous night, it was arranged not to go any further for the day.  About a mile below the camp, where the stream meandered through a level patch of land, we found excellent feed, a little inconvenient, it is true, for the guard, but the grass was too tempting to let that consideration weigh.  Shortly after our meal was over, we were waited upon by ten visitors of the Utah tribe, dressed in buckskin suits, and well mounted.  They had only a few skins for barter, and some of that compound I described before, made of powdered crickets and service berries, in small cakes baked in the sun.  There were a couple of the horses I would have dealt for, but they were not disposed to part with them at all.  One of them spoke and understood a little English, from the frequency of his visits to the Mormon city, and from him I sought some information as to the route to Humboldt River, of which he was entirely ignorant, as he said, "him lib here;" pointing away to the south-west.</P>
053.sgm:<P>As our animals were such a distance from the camp, and those gentlemen in the neighbourhood, it occured to me it would be a prudent arrangement to strengthen our guard; so at the next change I got my own tent carried down, and added two to each watch till <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Next morning we launched out once more upon desert of sage and sand, through which we travelled all the day, the bushes being so close and strong in many places as to call all our axes into requisition.  It was very severe work on the mules, whose legs and bellies got scratched and torn by the stumps, which also arrested the wheels every moment.  About five o'clock in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The next day the scene of dreary desolation was broken by a chain of hills, running in detached and irregular lines from north-east to south-west; which were well timbered with cedar, aspen, and a large bushy shrub, bearing a red berry, the name of which I could not ascertain.  We endeavoured to force our way through a valley that lay directly in the line we wanted to go, and again called out the broad-axe guard; however, after cutting a path for upwards of two miles, we met sage of such prodigious growth, and in such close contact, we were compelled to desist, and retrace our steps to where we diverged from the trail, which led us in an oblique line up the side of the hills, crossing a grassy dell, where we halted till noon.  In getting round to the other side, several short broken ranges of distant mountains came within view, all tending north and south, in conformity with the system of the great interior basin.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>The Digger Indians--Their Appearance, Character, Habits, and Customs--Their extent of Territory--Their Practices towards Emigrants--Desert Country--The toil of the Animals--The 4th of July--Festival in the Wilderness--Occurrences of the Night--Fine Feed--Country again improves--Meet the Forst Hall Trail--Picturesque Scenery--Shoot a Black-tailed Deer--Different Treatment of Venison in those Hills from Ludgate-hill--Our Friend the Indian Dreader in fear--Goose Creek--The Wild Excitement--The Blank Disappointment--"All is not gold that glitters"--True Philosophy make our Disappointment Food for Fun--Further Researches--Volcanic indications--Narrow Pass--No Gold--Rugged Defile--Waggon Accident--"Necessity the Mother of Invention"--Sage Hens and Digger Indians--Their Flight--Apprehension of having gone astray--Snow-capped Mountains to cross--Infamous Road--Giddy Precipice--The Humboldt River--Strange Appearance of the Land near its head waters--Colonel Fremont's Description of the Humboldt River. WE were now entering the confines of the Digger Indian territory, the most degraded and debased of all the Indian race, the refuse and dregs of savage society, who receive into brotherhood every outcast from all the other tribes, that fly from the vengeance their crimes have earned for them.  In natural conformation the Digger Indian is very few degrees removed from the orang-outang; not much above its stature, having the same compressed physiognomy, a low forehead, with little or no space between the eyebrows and roots of the hair.  He is altogether devoid of resources, possessing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:little beyond the instinctive cunning of the monkey, without a scintilla of energy to procure either good food or raiment.  They exist, as their name denotes, on roots dug from the earth, vermin, and crickets, although, with ordinary exertion, they could kill sufficient deer, antelope, and mountain sheep for sustentation, the skins of which would afford them a partial covering; but such is their inherent sloth, they have been known to die of absolute inanition rather than make an effort to obtain food.  The females correspond in looks and habits with those "lords of the creation," living in holes and dens, that cannot be dignified by the title of huts or wigwams, and drag out a miserable existence in a state of nature, amidst the most loathsome and disgusting squalor.  Their territory covers a great, but, for the most part, barren expanse, extending over the Sierra Nevada into the northern extremity of Alta California.  They are a terrible pest and nuisance to travellers and emigrants, for, without aspiring to the chivalry of robbers, they are content to fire their arrows at night amongst the animals, hoping to wound or cripple some, so that they will have to be left behind, when they become their prey.  When going into their country, emigrants should make it a rule never to camp near shrubs or bushes, under cover of which they will be certain to crawl within range of the animals, and perhaps effect their purpose without being discovered, as no noise follows the discharge of their arrows, some of which may wound a man as well.  Humboldt River and the head of the Sacramento are the places where they are most numerous; but they are fast dwindling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Next day the sun was oppressively hot, and we toiled through sage and sand without meeting an oasis in this cheerless region, while the animals were sadly persecuted by a large gnat, whose sting inflicted severe pain, judging from the manner in which the poor brutes winced.  We had plenty of water, which, running without shade through those hot lands, was at a blood heat, and consequently not very agreeable to drink while sweltering ourselves in the solar fire.  Two of the men, who rode forward in the morning, returned at four o'clock, with intelligence that there was good camping-ground and feed about nine miles ahead, where we saw some hills rising from the plain; it was rather far, if it could have been avoided.  I agreed, however, with myself to make it up to the animals by a later morning's start than usual.  From the nature of the road, it was sundown when we arrived at our quarters, which fully bore out the representation given of them.</P>
053.sgm:<P>This evening happening to be the 3rd of July, the eve of the anniversary of American independence, our few Yankee companions expressed a desire of celebrating its advent, if we Britishers had no objection.  On receiving an assurance to that effect, they concocted a bucket of capital punch, and as soon as twelve o'clock came round, those patriotic voyageurs hailed the festival with a peppery salvo of revolvers and rifles, and then sought to sap our loyalty through the insinuating agency of whisky-toddy, our boisterous hilarity imposing a new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The morning star made its appearance before we turned in; but this I did not so much mind, as it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>As we got into the hills the scenery became very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We heard great things of Goose Creek, both at Fort Bridge and Salt Lake, and were resolved to search for some of the golden eggs, even though it caused us a delay of a few days.  The creek widened as we travelled down it in a southerly course, receiving the offerings of little tributaries at every perch; the valley, too, opened somewhat, and spread out a carpet for our reception, with clover, rich grasses, and sweet-scented <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The mistake, however, did not deter us from making other researches amongst the volcanic debris with which the hill-sides and ravines were strewed, without having our industry rewarded by a single grain.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:About a mile from our camp the river can&tilde;oned at a right angle through a high hill, the sides of which you would think impended much beyond the perpendicular, leaving a side-path of rather a ticklish width to get through.  On from this pass we got into an oval-shaped plain, which we crossed longitudinally together with the creek, and entered another defile, more roomy than the last, and volcanic throughout, cliffs thrown up in irregular strata and covered with scoria and vitreous gravel.  During our nooning spell all hands turned to with picks, shovels, and wash-basins, in the various gulches and ravines, and worked with great assiduity for two hours, without finding a spec, or meeting any of the concomitant symptoms of its existence, which satisfied us it would be a sheer waste of time to remain exploring in Goose Creek.  We accordingly hitched up and continued our journey, still confined in the jaws of the defile, which became more and more rugged as we advanced, the torn-up beds of mountain torrents intersecting our narrow path in many places, shaking our waggons so dreadfully I expected at each jolt to hear an axletree snap, or see a wheel shivered; nor was it long until, in passing over a ledge of shelving rock, one of the wheel mules slipped, and falling broadside on the pole, snapped it across where it enters the hounds.  Next after breaking a wheel this was the worst accident that could happen, as the fracture occurred at a place that did not admit of splicing: and the taking asunder of the hounds to get a new one in, together with the fitting of the irons, made it a troublesome occurrence, there being no one amongst the party <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We got out of the glen soon after, and continued our course, never anticipating any difficulty about finding a camping-ground; but it was deep twilight ere we met one, and then a very indifferent one, with bad water and worse grass, amidst groves of the odious artemesia, alive with lizards and sand-ticks.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The same character of frightful barrenness marked the country through which we passed the following day; neither flower, nor shrub, nor any indication of soil that would give promise that the energy of man would ever succeed in supplanting those rank weeds of nature by the smiling productions of husbandry.  As our loose mules were wandering through those bushes, looking for tufts of bunch-grass, they flushed a pack of sage-hens, which, after a short flight, were marked down.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Soon after a river appeared to the southward, which we concluded was Goose Creek, but it considerably puzzled us, finding it on our left hand.  We approached it to noon, and, to our still greater surprise, found it running in an easterly course.  As it was an affluent of the Humboldt, I began to fear we had overrun the source of that river, which was to be our great guide for three hundred miles; so, while the others were nooning, I took one of the idle mules and rode off to a chain of hills about five miles distant, through which it seemed to run.  There I had the gratification of finding that, after passing them, it took a southerly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We were all the morning drawing close to a range of lofty mountains, composed of black basalt, conforming to the general law of the great basin, and lying north and south; many of their peaks were snow capped, and smoke issued from several high ledges, whence the Diggers might look down and watch us.  Our trail went in a line to the base, and then ascended one of the hips, winding like a white tread till it disappeared round a knuckle at a great elevation.  It was by far the roughest track we had yet met with, and was, in great part, made up of the bed of a mountain torrent, so narrow in many places that the waggon-wheels were working upon the edges, and the mules endeavouring to pull below in the bottom.  Being too much for a single team to master, we only took up two waggons at a time, using the teams of the four; and in getting round the projection took all out but the wheel-span, as it required the greatest caution and precision in driving, there not being six inches to spare from the edge of a dizzy precipice fully 1000 feet deep: it was a nerve-testing spot, and only one teamster was game to sit in the saddle, who piloted all in safety over the dangerous place.  We had this grinning precipice disagreeably contiguous for more than a mile, till we got to the western side of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It was high time for camping when we got down on the plain, which was pitted over for miles like a tan-yard, with oblong holes, some of which were very deep, of a remarkable appearance, looking as if they were formed by art, they were so equally spread and so uniformly shaped.  All were deep and half-filled with stagnant water.  As the dusk had set it, we did not choose to run any risk in getting to the river, but pitched our tents amongst them, and picked up as many withered willows as boiled our coffee.  I may say we were now at the head waters of that remarkable river, though not exactly at its source, which consists of two inconsiderable little streams in the mountains from which we just descended.  Colonel Fremont describes it as follows in his "Geographical Memoir of Upper California," written by order of the U.S. Senate, as a key to his map, published in 1848, the first and only correct one of those regions:</P>
053.sgm:<P>"One of the most considerable rivers in the interior of the Great Basin is that called on the map Humboldt River, so called as a small mark of respect to the `Nestor of scientific travellers,' who has done so much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:to illustrate North American geography without leaving his name on any of its remarkable features.  It is a river long known to hunters, and sometimes sketched on maps under the name of Mary's River, but now, for the first time, laid down with any precision.  It is a very peculiar stream, and has many of the characteristics of an Asiatic river--the Indus, for example, though twice as long--rising in the mountains, and losing itself in a lake of its own, after a long and solitary course. It rises in two streams in the mountains west of the Great Salt Lake, which unite after some fifty miles, and bear westerly along the northern side of the Great Basin towards the Great Sierra Nevada, which it is destined never to reach, much less to pass.  The mountains in which it rises are handsome in their outline, capped with snow the greater part of the year, clothed in places with grasss and wood, and abundant in water.  The stream is a narrow line, with few affluents, losing by absorption and evaporation as it goes, and terminating in a marshy lake, with low shores, fringed with bulrushes, and whitened with saline incrustations.  It has a moderate current, from two to six feet deep, in the dry seasons, and probably not fordable anywhere below the junction of the forks.  During the time of the melting snows, when both lake and river are considerably enlarged, the country through which it passes (except its immediate valley or border) is a dry sandy plain, without wood, grass, or arable soil, from about 4700 feet at the forks to 4200 feet at the lake, above the level of the sea, winding amongst <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Short Cut--Indian Surprise--My Retreat and Wound--The termination o the Chase--Motives of the Attack--The Dust Nuisance--A hungry Digger--His Gastronomic Performance--Its Effect--Travelling in the Clouds--Heat of the Ground--Novel Appearance of the Country--Mountain Pass--Night Travelling in the Wilderness--Sublime Scenery--Moonlight--Sunrise--Opthalmia and Cracked Lips--The Sun, and its reflective Heat--The Water gets ill-tasted--Grand Canon--State of the Animals and our Lips--Wild Currants--Dogged by the Indians--Give them a Surprise--Amusing Retreat of the Diggers--Good Camping-Ground--Serious Difficulties of the Route--Deep Dust and intense Heat--Proposition--Lighten our Loads--Leave our Goods upon the Desert--Reduce the Burdens to seven hundred-weight per Waggon--Effects of the hot Sand on our Waggon-wheels--Green Goggles and Veils in request--More Currants--My Wound becomes very angry--Appoint a Deputy--Diverting Indian Water-hunt. IN the morning we had two hours twisting and turning before we got to the bank of the river, though for a day's travel it was scarcely important enough to be dignified by the title of river; but, once there, the path was tolerably smooth and level.  After travelling down it for an hour it approximated, and ran parallel with, a high ridge of ground, which stretched away a long distance to the southward, and, turning round its point, ran up on the other side right opposite to that from which we set out.  As soon as I ascertained this, by riding up the rise, I called to the waggons to halt until I selected an easy place to get them over, which would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>I was, as I said, wholly unarmed, the spade being rather an encumbrance than a weapon; so I saw my only chance of escape was in flight, and therefore, pulling up the stake in all haste, sprang upon my horse to run for it.  Had I open ground I would not have feared the result; but amongst large bushes their horses, from custom, could easily outrun mine.  After the first burst I looked round, and saw they were fast gaining upon me; and just as I gained the summit of the rise two arrows whizzed close past me, a third taking effect in the thigh, high up near the hip.  I was now within view of the waggons, but they were a long way off; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:nevertheless, putting my finger in my mouth, I gave a shrill whistle, which it was clear did not reach them; then, letting go the spade, and taking a good hold of my horse by the head, I crammed in the spurs, rousing him to his utmost speed, and ventured to take another look round on my pursuers, to make a flying calculation of my remaining chances; but, lo! and behold, pursuers there were none--not an Indian within view, or any object I could magnify into the semblance of a foe.  What could it have been?  Was it a day-dream, or a vision, or the illusion of mirage?  Yes, thought I, it must certainly have been the effects of that strange, deceptive phenomenon, becoming almost reconciled to the conviction, when I felt a prick of pain in my thigh which reminded me of the arrow that was sticking there--a circumstance that at once put an end to my preternatural speculations; for I never heard it alleged, by the most imaginative travellers, that those desert phantoms, Fata Morgana, are in the habit of shooting real <HI REND="italics">bona&circ; fide</HI>
053.sgm:<P>The arrow had only a shallow hold, and was not very painful; the only thing that gave me any uneasiness being the dread that the barb might have been poisoned.  As soon as I came up with the waggons I got one of my companions to take it out; but he broke off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It is not usual with the Diggers to make an attack of such a nature, but I suppose they were prompted by motives of revenge for the peppering I gave one of them the day before, when following the sage-hens.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We had fine feed at noon close along the river banks; but although the road was level, it was most disagreeable, from the clouds of hot dust with which we were perpetually enveloped.  It was not sand, but a fine impalpable powder, as light as ashes, that covered the trail; and, being perfectly imponderous, was raised up in clouds from the trampling of the animals, covering everything and everybody, actually choking the nostrils of the mules and horses, who appeared to suffer seriously from it, and giving some amongst us with susceptible lungs very teazing coughs.  As soon as the cloud subsided, after stopping, we saw a squalid-looking Digger seated on the edge of the bank.  I need not say that the first impulse was to blow him into the river; and, had he moved, such, I believe, would have been his fate; but he neither budged nor appeared in the least disconcerted.  On the contrary, he "grinned most horribly" a species of smile, and welcomed us with a sort of bowing salutation.  I showed him the arrow, and where I was wounded, making signs to him to warn his tribe to keep clear of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We moved off in a cloud, which rolled faithfully along with us the entire evening, and at times was so impenetrable it was next thing to impossible to see our way, coming at every second waggon length jam into a big sage-bush, and the heads of the mules in the rear coming bump against the obstructed wa&acute;ggon.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Next morning we got into a flat valley, shaped like a Y, coated all over with a thin saline incrustation, and all the bushes frosted with a hoar-powder, that gave it exactly the appearance of deep winter drapery, while the sun was toasting everything to a cinder.  When we came to the tail of the valley the river left us in a southerly sweep, and can&tilde;oned through the mountains in a very narrow precipitous channel, our trail slanting northerly over the brow.  We took our nooning spell before we commenced the ascent, and prepared a lot of logs to key or prop the wheels at the rests.  Though the range was steep it looked narrow, so that we calculated we could easily accomplish the crossing in the evening, lightening as much as we could by packing; nevertheless, it was a task of infinite toil to both man and beast to gain the top of the first elevation; on attaining which, far from having surmounted all difficulties, we had to slide down with ropes and double-locks into a rocky defile, where we kept jumbling and jolting until dark, and took two hours of moonlight before we got to the end of it, where we were met by another steep and rugged ascent.</P>
053.sgm:<P>I would have been inclined to stop here till daylight if there was any grass or brambles on which the animals could browse; but there was nothing save bare rocks and stones.  It was on the borders of twelve o'clock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We had a late breakfast this morning, and did not get "a rollin" until nine o'clock.  There was no novelty in the appearance of the country--sterile and barren as usual, and the dust as smothering, several of our company showing symptoms of opthalmia, and all suffering from hacked lips.  Little ulcers were also observable in some of the horses' noses, which alarmed me very seriously lest they should become aggravated into glanders; but I found they healed up by being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We derived very little benefit or enjoyment from our rest, and had another sharp evening's task before us, in the crossing of another bench of mountains, which were not very elevated; but what they lacked in height they made up in breadth and other difficulties, for the ravine through which the pass lay was filled with loose sand, in which the wheels sank eighteen inches.  The river can&tilde;oned here again in a southerly direction, and so closely to us I had the curiosity to visit it.  There was a space at each edge where it first entered the mountain, but as it got towards the centre it washed the very walls of the precipice on each side, the aperture above looking like a mere slit, not large enough to let down sufficient light, for the chasm through which the waters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Next day we travelled almost without deviation close by the river bank, but could in many places have made a more direct course than by following its bends, only that the artemesia was altogether impenetrable.  In spots during the day we met bushes of wild currant, small and tart, and from that very constituent, being a good antiscorbutic, I recommended each mess to pull as many as would make a good pie, which we found palatable as well as wholesome.  A lot of Indians kept dogging us all the morning, and the river being deeply fringed with willows, it was clear they purposed following us till evening, to see and get a shot at our stock; but we managed to disperse them in great alarm, by leaving six men in a dry gully at a point of the river round which we went, taking a southerly slant, knowing that, if bent on mischief, they would pass very close to this angle.  About half a mile further on six more men dropped down quietly in the tall sage, the waggons and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We arrived early in the evening, and a lovely one it was, at an elbow of the river, where there was the finest feed we met for some weeks--rich grasses, thickly interspersed with clover.  Influenced by this temptation, as well as a desire to give the <HI REND="italics">chefs de cuisine</HI>
053.sgm: fair time to get their confectionery in a state of perfectability, I consented to a stop for the night; but as we were regularly circumvented by willows, the remainder set about scouring the brush, to see if there were any lurking Diggers, that we might serve them with latitats: none being found, we sat down to a <HI REND="italics">recherche&acute;</HI>
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053.sgm:<P>The work next morning was harassing, getting through broken ground, where the loose sand was so very deep the wheels sank almost to the naves, the poor mules panting and struggling knee-deep in it, while at a heat that would roast eggs.  In one hollow it became so bad, that our best team gave out, refusing to move one inch; we therefore caught all the loose animals, and packed them together with the riding horses; but even then we were obliged to double team for over a mile, coming back for the other waggons, which caused considerable delay; and as the draught animals were so jaded, I left on the packs until we came to our camping-ground, turning in my mind for immediate proposition a project I foresaw would be forced upon us, sooner or later, and, being inevitable, I thought it better to anticipate it.  So, when we halted, I called the general attention to the condition of our animals, reminding them of the distance we had still to travel, and the fact that, within that distance, lay the two prime obstacles of the entire journey--the crossing of the Desert, beyond the Sink of Humboldt River, and the Great Sierra Nevada, which, as they were aware, could only be surmounted by teams quite up to the mark.  I therefore called upon each, not only as he valued the stock but his own life, to consent to have the loads revised, and everything cast aside that was not absolutely indispensable, clothing as well as food.  This, I must do them the justice to say, they cheerfully acquiesced in, agreeing to appoint a man out of each mess as a committee of inspection, who were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It was computed we left Independence with 22 cwt. each, which it now was supposed had been reduced to 12 cwt.  Of this, on a patient revision, and calculating the number of days the journey would yet occupy, allowing ample rations for that period, and for a fortnight after our arrival, to give us breathing time to look about, we came to the conclusion that 5 cwt. from each might be thrown away; for, together with a superabundance of provisions, we had many useless superfluities in the way of dress, ammunition, &amp;c., &amp;c., which could be easily replaced in California.  To begin, we went through the bacon, culling the worst, and weighing 1 cwt. from each waggon, together with 1 cwt. of flour, and a proportion of biscuit, dried peas, beans, and raw coffee, of which we made up half the complement, completing it with powder, lead, shot--of which we had a most inordinate quantity--boxes with extra tools, and a set of lumbering gold-washers, that were very ponderous, and took up a quantity of room.  We weighed all accurately with steelyards, leaving to each, as nearly as we could adjust it, 7 cwt., everything inclusive. The bacon, flour, &amp;c., &amp;c., we packed in a nice heap, strewed over with willows and rushes to protect it from decay, in case any emigrants not so amply provided as we were should require them; but the powder, lead, and shot we hove into the river, lest they should fall into the hands of the Indians, and prove <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Seven cwt. was a handy, portable load one would imagine, and easily managed with six mules; but they were so enfeebled by unremitting daily harass, hot sands, sultry weather, and precarious food, that they moved it along with a greater effort than the 22 cwt. at starting.  We calculated, also, that the revised loads would be still further reduced by 2 cwt. when we reached the base of the Great Sierra Nevada, which, if need arose, could be altogether carried on the loose and riding animals in packs, making out rather a favourable case for crossing that formidable range.  There was a another matter that gave us not a little uneasiness: it was the state of our wheels: for since we began coming down Humboldt River, being constantly immersed in hot sand, the felloes and naves shrunk, the tyres loosened, and the spokes rattled like a bag of bones; but we resolved to manage by wedging until we got to the Sink, where we intended submerging them in water, to swell them out, before attempting the Desert, as we could not possibly devise any mode of cutting and welding the tyres.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The business of arranging our loads fully occupied us during our three nooning hours, but afforded us all infinite gratification to feel we had been easing our faithful animals of a large portion of their burdens, and that, too, without obliging ourselves to forego a single necessary that we were accustomed to use since we started.  During our afternoon's drive we were not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The exertion of lifting and weighing had an evil effect on my wound, which now began paining me excessively, assuming so angry a look that I was yet apprehensive of poison, though the heat, the constant exercise, and the bad tone of system, were of themselves reason enough for the inflammation.  I rode with great difficulty, but looked forward to some relief from the suppuration that was fast forming, aided by fomentation as often as opportunity offered.  Being unable to move about as usual, I appointed a deputy <HI REND="italics">pro tem</HI>
053.sgm:<P>However, after supper, seeing some tall willows <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Another Surgical Operation--Obliged to take up my abode in a Waggon--Time for Reflection--A Waggon Dream--Volcanic Indications--Spectral Waltzes--Shoot some Sage-Hens--Bitter bad Water--Get into the Saddle again--Petrified Fungi and Volcanic Debris--Appalling Sterility--Diminution of the River--Thickness of the Water--The Ashy Dust--Miss Mitford's definition of it--Opthalmia in the Horses--Alluvial Bottom--Milage in the Wilderness--Deceived as to the-Sink--Frigidum Line--Ulcerated Sore-Throats--Appearance of the Animals-- Meagre Diet--Crippled Appearance of the Caravan--Magical influence of golden Anticipations--Pimping Indians--Mowing with Case-Knives--Diggers come amongst us unawares--No Hostility--Get them to Work--Their Mode of wearing English Apparel--Make our Hay into Trusses, and divide it--Volcanic Evidences--The Sink of Humboldt River--Description of it--Order of Travel across the Desert--Reflections on the Sufferings of those who will come later in the Season--Account of their dire Character--Humboldt River free from the Musquito Torment. I AROSE from my bivouac next morning in such pain, that I resolved anticipating the breaking of the tumour by lancing, and got one of my friends to perform the surgical operation by puncturing it deeply with a sharp knife.  The discharge was immense, and the relief immediate; but my professional attendant strictly interdicted riding, and got a bed fixed for me in my waggon, which gives me an excuse for abbreviating my account of this day's travel, though, from what I could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It gave me leisure for multifarious reflections touching the past, present, and the future.  Poverty-stricken Ireland, without a potatoe to dig--Humboldt River, with its mischievous Diggers--and wealthy California, with its golden diggins; and I thought, as I dozed off into a slumber, that I was in the valley of the Sacramento, with a legion of the "hereditary bondsmen," who were "tossin' up the yallow clay," as they called it, on the points of their spades, shouting, "Hurrah, my boys! the working-man's summer is come at last; we can get gold now, when the lords and squires are unable to reach it; the wheel has gone its round; bone and sinew now beat titles and professions; maybe we won't pay off our score of the nashunal debt, and repale the Union, and set up for ourselves in raal earnist, in ould Ireland, with the sky over it:"  and as they amassed their piles of treasure, they would at times pull off a stocking, and filling it with dust (not the dirty macadamized trash), tie it to the tail of a runaway steam-engine just going to start for Carricknagat and Drumiscabole, to leave it with Peggy and the childher, and a trifle for poor Master John, to help him over the bad times, though he used to "pound the cattle for the rint."  And while they were thus employed, a tall, gaunt, whey-coloured chap, with a broad-brimmed hat, and epitomised inexpressibles, stalked into the midst of them, and said:</P>
053.sgm:<P>"I reckon that ar gold is none o'yourn."</P>
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053.sgm:<P>"I reckon your mother rayred you in a hard summer, ould Paywattle," said Paddy Burke.</P>
053.sgm:<P>"Mind, friend, if you realise what don't belong to you, you must pay our free and enlightened government thirty dollars a month--that's a fact."</P>
053.sgm:<P>"Send a sweep," says Paddy, "up thim nostrils of yours, and laarn to spake like a Christian.  What call have you to it more nor us?  If the Mexicans was bate, who bate them?  Wasn't the Merrican armee all Irish boys from the ould country?  So none o' yer Yankee boastin' about whippin' thim five to one; and to hell with your tax, Mr. Barebones; we'll dig our bellies full."</P>
053.sgm:<P>One word "borried another, my darlint," as Mr. Burke would say, "till down came the possay cometat-us, when the fun began in raal earnest, and maybe the tax-men didn't get Thulahogue's payment, more kicks nor ha'pence;"--waking your humble servant in the row.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The train pulled up to noon in a kind of peninsula, where the river runs close under a high hill, covered from top to bottom with volcanic debris and sharp vitreous gravel, that wounded the worn-down hoofs of the animals, causing them all to move tenderly.  We continued our route in a direct line towards a distant line of willows, which indicated the course of the stream, avoiding a round of at least three miles.  The plain was sparsely covered with sage, but marked with immense spaces of saline incrustations, thicker and more firm than any we yet met, not even breaking under the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The water of the river, now clearly shrinking, both by evaporationand absorption, was positively bitter of alkali, preparing us for an increasing deterioration as we proceeded--not a very consoling look-out for unacclimatised travellers, already suffering from its modified effects.  The only cure left us, and one which we resolved pushing to the extreme, was despatch.  All our ailing men were growingworse and worse, and lest the example I set them of riding in a waggon should embolden others to look for a similar indulgence, I made up my mind to resume the saddle next day, let my pain or suffering be what it might, as the lighter the load the greater the impunity from travel, and even half a day saved from the trials of such a march would be cheaply purchased at so much self-denial.</P>
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053.sgm:<P>Next day I had my charger saddled, but was painfully puzzled to get into my seat, my wound, though improved, being still much inflamed.  We presented rather a novel appearance, some with green goggles, others with bandages across their mouths, and the remainder with aprons on their lips, which were really frightful and disgusting to look upon.  The river, which heretofore flowed through flat bottoms, nearly on a level with its banks, now bent its course through high sand bluffs, outside of which our trail lay; the general face of the valley, though more rolling and broken, was still of the same unvarying character.  We found in several places large masses of vegetable matter, looking like petrified fungi, which struck me as out of place amidst the profusion of volcanic matter scattered so thickly around.  I was curious enough to take a specimen on with me, without being able to obtain a satisfactory solution as to their anomalous location, for there was not the smallest particle of vegetation except sage beyond the bluffs, and even that appeared worsted in the battle of existence.</P>
053.sgm:<P>At nooning time we unharnessed from the waggons where they stood on the trail, and drove the stock over the sand-hills to the river; but even there the feed was very indifferent, and the porous banks were fast diminishing the river into a paltry stream, now nearly the consistence of thin gruel, so fully was it impregnated with alkali, and nearly at a blood heat.  Taking a hint from the East Indian mode of cooling fluids, I sewed up my canteen in flannel, which produced a good effect, all the rest covering theirs in like manner, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>I observed some of the horses this evening running water from the eyes, while three more were added to the list of men ailing in that way.  There was much sighing and despondency; but I sought to keep up their spirits by the assurance that three days more would bring us to the banks of Carson River, a cool, limpid stream, fed from the pure source of everlasting snow; yet three days' probation to men in their state looked like eternity.  Our camp to-night was on the trail, and at noon the mules were driven over the sand-hills to pasture--such as it was--but not one of them, that I saw, went near the water.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The only change worthy of notice in our next day's travel was, that instead of travelling outside the sand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We nooned on the western verge of the basin, the river "becoming fine by degrees and beautifully less," and the water more deplorably bitter; but I kept alive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:the gay temper of the party by promising rations of brandy and water in the evening.  The shoeing on one of the waggons got so loose towards evening we had to pull up and wedge it all round; indeed, all were in a very shaky state for getting over the Great Sierra Nevada; however, I knew, when I got amongst brooks, and rivulets, and snow-drifts, they would quickly regain their usual dimensions.  The bluffs again approached the river, but left us a nice level track to travel on, where we stepped out, I can assure you, as if we carried the mail, without kicking up a dust either, having no turbulent or ambitious fly travelling round the nave of the wheel.  Stiff and aching as I was, I rode forward a good distance, hoping to have an agreeable surprise for my companions by announcing the Sink; and was very nearly betrayed into the mistake on coming within view of a large tract of reeds and bulrushes, without any open line amongst them that I could see indicating the course of the river.  Before, however, I turned round to return, and hail them with the glad shout, I rode round to the north-west side of the rushes, and there, to my disappointment, I found the odious river again emerging, running through a fertile hollow, where I chalked out our bivouac for the night.  I alit and stretched upon the ground to await their arrival, and was in a sound slumber when they came up, calling for the brandy.  The instant after the animals were liberated a brimmer was served round to each, and drank off without the contaminating admixture of any of Humboldt's water; after which, we all turned on with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>At breakfast next morning several complained of sore throats and difficulty of swallowing.  Having been myself a martyr to that ailment for a few years of my life, I undertook to prescribe for them.  They arose from ulcers formed in the glands, produced, as I believe, by the use of the bad water, and the constant gulping down of the dust.  The coffee this morning--augh! it was not drinkable--being more nauseous by far than a decoction of senna and salts--a few mouthfuls of the cool fluid from our canteens, and a little bread, constituted our meagre meal; as I induced them to refrain from bacon in consequence of the thirst it would be sure to engender.  The appearance of the animals was anything but gratifying, all of them being tucked up in the carcases from the want of drink and feed, seeming stupid and heavy; nor was there enough of meal to afford them gruel without trenching on the stock laid by for the Desert, which I held sacred.  Altogether the caravan in every branch--men, animals, and waggons--was in a very seedy and unsound state, more nearly resembling a batch of invalids crawlingin search of an hospital, than a band of adventurous travellers charging the Great Sierra Nevada to jump into the golden valley of the Sacramento.  But this loadstar, and the anticipated luxuries of those fertile regions, teeming with delicious fruits, and decked in floral robes of undecaying loveliness, kept up the flagging spirits, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We were again troubled with the dust to-day, but not to the great extent of some days back.  However, the wheeling was sound and good, leaving little of a draught once the waggons were in motion.  My wound was considerably better, enabling me to ride without much pain; so I started forward to examine the country with three other horsemen, expecting from every little rise to see the long wished-for Sink before us.  We saw numerous moving specs along the hills to northward that we knew were Indians, which restrained us from going too far in advance, lest they should be disposed to give us a "Roland for our Oliver," in remembrance of the ducking a few evenings back.  About nine o'clock we came to another rushy swamp, not, however, fully answering the description of the Sink, but from the fine patches of grass that were growing about it, we stopped to await the waggons, and commenced cutting it with our knives, and tying it in bundles, to provide feed for the Desert, in which, by the accounts given by the few who have crossed it, we were not to expect any oasis or hospitable spot.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We staked our horses, and were stooped diligently at work without a suspicion of any sort; but after a little, as one of us stood up for a rest, as the tailors do, he saw we were favoured with the presence of about thirty Diggers, sitting quietly on their haunches, looking on at our proceedings.  Our first impulse was to run to our rifles; but the pacific posture of our visitors, and their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>I made most elaborate efforts by signs, shrugs, and nods, with a liberal admixture of winks, to ascertain the whereabouts of the Sink, without being able to make them comprehend me.  But I was enabled to form some idea of the distance by learning from them that "the great hills were only three suns' distance from us," which they indicated by pointing one elbow into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We divided out trusses into four lots, assigning one to each waggon, and resumed our journey, without taking our full spell, in our anxiety to reach the Sink.  Passing over a sharp gravelly bottom, full of flinty vitreous particles, very severe on the feet, round the hip of a low black mountain, so volcanic in appearance you would imagine the fires had just been quenched for a holiday, the rocks and scoria looking as cindery as if just drawn from a furnace.  From this we had a full view of the low sand ridges and marshy swamps that engulf the final dribble of Humboldt River.  We passed round to the south-west side over an immense baked plain, without shrub, or sand, or gravel, perfectly hard and unpleasantly white, paining the vision as it reflected back the sun's rays, and halted close by the reeds, along which there was a wide saline incrustation, and a very foetid abominable stench.  The Sink, I could see, swelled into a lake in the rainy seasons, covering the plain over which we passed with an unbroken sheet of water; but at present it was composed of a parcel of stagnant ponds and sloughs, without the slightest eddy that would give the idea of a sink or swallow-hole, so that I would be inclined to think the waters are principally, if not altogether, carried off by evaporation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The moment we arrived, we commenced taking off the wheels and submerging them in the swamp till evening, when we were to start again, the order of progress for crossing the Desert being one night's march; a morning pause, to let the animals eat the grass; another short stop, to give them gruel at noon; and then, ho! for Carson River, without a halt.  The distance was sixty miles; but about ten from the Sink there are some sulphur springs, where the water is somewhat drinkable; there we arranged to fill our four water-kegs to make gruel for the stock, and our own canteens, which was all we were to expect.  We apprehended great difficulty in keeping the faint trail in the dark, but agreed to take it in turns of two, to walk and act as pilots; all nerving ourselves for the undertaking, by the conviction that twenty-four hours more of unflinching perseverance would extricate us from our miseries, and bring us within reach of that unappreciated fluid, more precious in our suffering condition than the untold wealth of California.</P>
053.sgm:<P>During the afternoon, as I thought over what we endured in coming down Humboldt River thus early in the season, when its waters were good for over half the distance, I felt horrified while reflecting on the fearful trials that awaited the unfortunate emigrants in the rear, who would not probably reach it until that advanced period when, from source to Sink, it is little better than a strong solution of alkali; and many of those, too, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Some, who were able to bear up under those trials, lost all their teams, and were compelled, as a last resource, to take such packs of provisions as men in their enfeebled state could carry, with a journey of near five hundred miles, the Desert and the Sierra Nevada still before them.  It was not unusual to see a devoted mother staggering over those burning plains, carrying her helpless offspring on her back, when drooping herself from sickness and exhaustion.  All of those, every soul, would have inevitably perished only for the charity and humanity of stronger and more fortunate travellers, who shared with a cheerful alacrity every necessary they possessed; some of them, in their uncalculating bounty, reducing themselves to the same level of destitution, from which they in turn were only partially rescued by an extraordinary effort of the government, who sent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There is one torment from which it is exempt, so far as my experience goes--that is the musquito persecution; and why it is so I cannot divine, for those poisonous insects are generally hatched in hot suns from the decayed vegetable matter of swamps and sloughs, which abound all along its solitary course.  Nor can the mineral properties of the region have anything to do with their absence, for the Platte runs through an alkaline soil, and Bear River empties itself into the Great Salt Lake amidst the buzz of their detestable music.</P>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>The Wheels braced by Immersion--Face the Desert in good Spirits--Blinding Dust--The Sulphur Springs--Heat of the Morning Sun--Grand Exhibition of Mirage--Dreadful Toil--Withering Heat--Insensibility of some of the Men--Impatience of the Stock while getting their Gruel--Temporary Insanity--Simoom--Its Providential Effects--Hurrah! Carson's River--The Science of Guzzling--Conduct of the Insane Men--Scenes of the Desert--Heartless Conduct--Whence the Name of Carson River--Its Course and Peculiarities--A Day's Rest in Paradise--Recovery of the Invalids--Colonel Fremont's Description of the Great Basin. AT one o'clock we had our wheels on, mules to, and everything ready for the Desert march.  The wheels were all the better for the immersion, being braced as tight as drums, and free from the slightest rattle--a compliment I am unable to pay the men and animals, who were as lank as gentility itself.  However, the fulness of spirit made up for any corporeal shrinking, for they all responded to the order "march" with as obedient an alacrity as if going to witness a review.  We soon left the greenish confines of the Sink in a south-westerly course, and got out on the shores of the sandy ocean, calculating to reach the sulphur springs before dark; but we got in amongst the still billows of the light ashy earth which I have before described, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>It so happened, owing, I suppose, to the watchful sagacity of the mules, that we did not go much aside from the trail, which we soon regained by a slanting course to the north-west; but in consequence of the delay in the soft sand, it was ten o'clock when we reached the neighbourhood of the sulphur springs, which we would have undoubtedly overrun, only that the mules set up a most discordant braying, which warned us of their proximity.  We watered those in harness without disengaging them, leaving the loose ones to help themselves, but the water was too strong of sulphur to permit of their taking a long drink.  We filled our kegs and canteens after taking a few sips, for neither the nose nor palate relished it much, getting on very well during the night afterwards, the sand being tolerably compact, and the light from the twinkling stars being sufficient to point out the trail.  At the first grey blink of morning we took out the mules and unharnessed them, that they might enjoy a tumble, giving them the grass, and taking ourselves a stretch of an hour, the time appointed for the guard to call us up.</P>
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053.sgm:<P>The red sun was peeping over the eastern mountains in our rear when we arose to eat a biscuit moistened in sulphur water.  I expected to have seen the peaks of the Great Sierra Nevada, but the hazy horizon of the sandy waste hid them from our view, leaving nothing to be seen but sand, not even a solitary plant of artemesia marking the unvarying surface of the Desert.  The sun fired up with great intensity, and so very early as eight o'clock struck with a glow that made us quail at the idea of its meridian vigour, causing us to have frequent recourse to the stinking liquor in our canteens.  I admonished all to husband it, bad as it was, with a miserly care, desiring them to try the expedient of carrying a pebble in their mouths, which generated a secretion that modified the appetite of thirst.  We got on at a round steady pace, averaging three miles per hour, until ten o'clock, when we met a district of soft sand, not of the impenderous sort, which strained the sinews of the honest mules to their utmost extent, making it painful to look at the steadfast creatures as they worked determinedly along, seeing that the labour was so very distressing, for even the loose stock got through it with considerable exertion.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We had an opportunity this morning of witnessing, I think in its most copious and magnificent form, that wonderful illusory spectacle of mirage, first in the shape of an extensive lake, whose placid and translucent bosom was dotted over with lovely islands, beautifully wooded and gracefully reflected in the glassy waters, its picturesque shores indented with shady bays, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>After two hours of dreadful toiling through the loose hot sands we emerged on a hard plain, broken in places, but devoid of a particle of any sort of vegetation.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>This done, the word "Move" was passed; but I found one of the teamsters altogether incapable of driving, and, sore against my grain, had to place him and the two insane men in the waggons, the latter having become so restless and outrageous that I was reluctantly constrained to resort to the disagreeable alternative of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Soon after the men sarted, a small black cloud arose in the north, and before it attained any great magnitude a sighing air of wind was felt passing us by, followed in the distance by a line of dust extending along the entire horizon.  I never heard of a simoom on the North American continent, but I saw the effects of a whirlwind, and thought there was one now rushing upon us, from which there was no shelter or escape, the only thing to be done being to back the waggons in a line to it, and await its fury and results.  Before, however, the evolution was fully made, it came upon us with a roaring violence, driving the sand before it in clouds and waves that soon raised in a drift to the height of the waggons, the mules and horses, cowering, backed into the shelter, while the roof was torn completely off one waggon and carried out of sight like a feather.  It had not been raging quite five minutes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>All now felt endowed with fresh vigour, and were quite independent of succour when the men returned from the river, reporting it only four miles distant; at the same time pointing out to us the line of planting peeping above the sand bluffs; so that within one hour and a half we were driving down the slope to Carson River.  Before it appeared in view the loose stock ran madly past us, dashing into the cooling current, until they were nearly aswim.  The mules, too, in harness made a rush to be off, one team actually succeeding in breaking away in consequence of the weakness of the teamster, upsetting the waggon in the stream, damaging everything it contained, and very nearly drowning one of the insane men who was tied in it.  Some of the men appeared to have as little self-control as the brutes, and kept swilling goblet after goblet until I thought they would burst.  I permitted the insane men to crawl out, and went down with them, lest they should go beyond their depth; but instead of approaching the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We remained where we were for the night, the whole duty of standing guard, cooking, &amp;c., &amp;c., devolving on myself and two others, the remainder, and those in regular rotation, protesting their utter inability to do so.  It was particularly hard on me, being on duty the night before; but I was so elated at having got over the Desert in safety, I made no scruple about it, though I must admit my eyes were unwilling parties in the undertaking, giving me incessant bother to keep them in a state of active co-operation.</P>
053.sgm:<P>I heard from the same parties who gave me the information respecting Humboldt River, that the scenes and occurrences in the Desert even transcended the others in melancholy horror, the whole line being marked with putrid carcases and deserted waggons, while the air was filled with the moans of the dying, the wails of the suffering, and the wild screams of the maniac.  Few, if any, had teams in a state to take them over the barren waste at one flight, nine-tenths being obliged to wait in the middle of this oven, and send on the animals to recruit for a few days; when some few that were in a position to do so, commenced a trade of packing small kegs of water on their mules and retailing it at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Carson River takes its name from a celebrated mountaineer called Kit Carson, who from his earliest years evinced a great disposition for roaming amidst the wild scenes of his unexplored country; a leaning he afterwards indulged in to the fullest extent, anticipating the discoveries of scientific research, becoming thoroughly familiarised with Indian habits, and personally known to many of the tribes, over whom he exerts a great influence.  He gave his name, as in this instance, to localities, from being the first to find them out; aiding the government of his country in making amicable treaties with warlike Indians; and is now, I believe, in the employ of the States, in some capacity connected with the sphere of his experience.  Carson River is a handsome clear stream, and has its source in the regions of perpetual snow flowing down the eastern flank of the Sierra Nevada, and like all the rivers issuing from the mountains in the circumference of the Great Basin, obeys the general law of losing itself in a lake of its own formation.  It abounds in salmon trout, and has a course of about one hundred miles, with a fine bench of alluvion running along it the entire distance on each side, save where it can&tilde;ons in the mountains.</P>
053.sgm:<P>The morning after our arrival we moved about five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:miles up the river, into a glorious meadow of clover and rich nutritious grasses, shaded with gigantic oak and cotton-wood trees, under which the stock fed with comfort, there being no brush or underwood to interrupt them.  I deemed it prudential to remain here for two days, to allow them to pluck up for the last great task--the crossing of the Sierra--giving those who had a <HI REND="italics">penchant</HI>
053.sgm:<P>Although still near ninety miles from the great Sierra Nevada, I regarded myself as at the rim of the Great Basin, once over the Desert, a brief description of which I will transcribe from the condensed memoir of Colonel Fremont already quoted from, showing how exactly it tallies in the general character with the description I give of it in the foregoing pages:</P>
053.sgm:<P>"East of the Sierra Nevada, and between it and the Rocky Mountains, is that anomalous feature in the continent--the Great Basin--the existence of which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>"The general character of the Great Basin is that of desert, but with great exceptions, there being many parts of it fit for the residence of civilised people, and of these parts the Mormons have lately established themselves in one of the largest and best.  Mountain is the predominating structure of the interior of the basin, with plains between the mountains wooded and watered, the plains arid and sterile, the interior mountains conforming to the law which governs the course of the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, ranging nearly north and south, and present a very uniform character of abruptness, rising suddenly from a very narrow base of ten or twenty miles, and attaining an elevation of two to five thousand feet above the level of the country on which they stand.  They are grassy and wooded, showing snow on their summit peaks during the greater part of the year, and affording small streams of water, from five to fifty feet wide, which lose themselves, some in lakes, some in dry plains, and some in belts of alluvial soil at their base--for these mountains have very uniformly this belt of alluvion, the wash and abraison of their sides--rich in excellent grasses, fertile and light, and loose enough to absorb small streams.  Between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>"Snow abounds on them all; in some, on their loftier parts, the whole year round, with wood, and grass, and copious streams of water, that sometimes amount to considerable rivers, flowing inwards, and forming lakes or sinking in the sands.  Belts or benches of good alluvion are usually found at their base.  The interior of the Great Basin, so far as explored, is found to be a succession of sharp mountain ranges and naked plains, such as have been described.  These ranges are isolated, presenting summit lines broken into peaks, of which the highest are between ten and eleven thousand feet above the level of the sea.  They are thinly wooded, with some varieties of pine (pinus monophylbus characteristic) cedar, aspen, and a few other varieties, and afford in places an excellent quality of bunch grass, equal to any found on the Rocky Mountains.  Black-tailed deer and mountain sheep are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Start from Carson River--Abridged Edition of the Desert--First View of the Great Sierra Nevada--Innocent Reflections--Laudable Forbearance--Doubt and Anxiety--Removed by Patience--Indian Mischief--Sad Retribution--No Alternative--Appearance of the Country--Indian Troop--Their Errand--Their Views--Carson River again--Can't catch Fish--Indian Footprints--Tangled Trail--Volcanic Debris--Surprise--Some Indians--Their Terror--Their loathsome Look--Trail over Cinders and Clinkers--Its Effect on the Mules and Waggons--Full Profile of the Great Sierra Nevada--Its grand Appearance--Lovely Valley--Gigantic Pines--Fremont's Description--Our Camp at the Mountain Base--Indian Visit--Trade for Trout--They dissemble their Skill in Archery--Method of drawing them out--More Fish next Morning--Indian Mode of getting into English Apparel--Romantic Emotions--Yankee Definition--Passage of an awful Canon--Description--A break down--The Crossing of the Torrent--Reed Lake--Reach the Foot of the Pass--Its impracticable Look--What the Horses think of it--What the Mules--Preparations for the Ascent. ON the morning of the fourth day after reaching the Carson, we started in improved health and spirits, to accomplish the last great stage of our long and trying journey, travelling close to and parallel with the river for six miles; we then separated, holding our course due west, it taking a southerly sweep amongst the mountains.  As soon as we left it, we lost the grass and the level trail, and became encompassed once more in the gloomy wildernesses of artemesia, with a long, trying rise to ascend.  The path was uncommonly rough, and would have shaken the wheels to pieces, had we not left them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>There was nothing grand or striking in the immediate scenery, but there were precipitous passes, too numerous to mention, which I would have been glad in the earlier part of my journey to have had to descant on, but the reader and I have by this time become too familiarised with scenes of the sort not to concur in opinion that it would smack of bookmaking were I to give even kit-cat portraits of such common places.  This day was not so insufferably hot as usual, which induced us to forego our nooning, rather than run the risk of not gaining the river before dark.  The animals, too <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Before dusk we were startled by the stock, who rushed up from the river edge in a terrible fright, the cause of which was soon apparent from an arrow, as ill luck would have it, in the neck of the bell-mare, who, when she looked back on the shaft with its feathered end sticking out, wheeled round and round, as if to avoid and shake it off; then, snorting in affright, galloped for a spurt, followed, as a matter of course, by the remainder of the animals, some of which at length coming in contact with it, broke it off close by the flesh.  It was high up in the crest, and therefore not dangerous, scarcely bleeding a drop; but although she permitted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The night was pretty clear, with the moon a quarter old, and six men volunteered to cross the river about half a mile down, where, spreading out over a wide, gravelly bar, it became shallow and fordable.  The mare having become peaceable, the stock commenced feeding again, while we returned to our tents as if nothing occurred, watching at the same time closely.  Soon after it was evident there was something astir, for the animals all raised up their heads, looking towards the river, and almost at the same moment four distinct shots were heard on the other side.  On running down, our comrades shouted over to us that two of the wretched Indians were killed out of a party of eighteen or twenty.  It would have given me gratification if they were crippled or wounded, as they richly deserved some punishment for such acts, but the hurrying of two unfortunate souls into eternity for hunting a dumb beast, came, I must say, with sad concern upon my conscience.  However, it must be allowed, that unless such conduct was checked, by making summary examples, the lives and properties of hundreds of emigrants might be sacrificed by having their teams destroyed, and being thus disabled from reaching their destination.</P>
053.sgm:<P>We separated from the river early next day, again taking a line to the mountain point remarked the evening before.  The path here was perfectly level for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The Indians had by this time come pretty close, and were driving before them an unbridled horse, with a short staff carrying the American flag fastened in an upright position to the horn of the saddle; a few of the Indians being partially clothed in civilised attire I concluded we had nothing to apprehend; neither did they fear anything, for they rode right up to us before they pulled a bridle.  The chief of the party, speaking some English, told us they came direct from California, from the valley of the Sacramento, and were in the employ of Captain Sutter, who despatched them on their present errand to the head of Humboldt River, to meet Mrs. Sutter, who was on her way out, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The white space we saw from the eminence was a stratum of clay whiter than chalk, and polished like statuary marble, excessively hard for about two inches in depth, after which it got gradually softer.  From this we ascended to a mountain gap, whence we had another view of Carson River, which was here heavily timbered, reaching it at five o'clock, after a march of twenty-five miles.  On watering our stock, we found the sands everywhere imprinted with the bare footmarks of Indians, employed, as we supposed, in fishing, from the number of fine trout we could see in the clear stream; but they studiously avoided us, though if they brought us fish to exchange we would have given them a liberal trade.  Their coyness made us all the more watchful, especially from what Sutter's Indians told us; however, they did not molest or annoy us in the least.  We spent the evening in angling, some with baits and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We stuck closely to the river the next day, following it through small can&tilde;ons and thickly-wooded ravines, where we were obliged to precede the waggons with knives and saws to cut a passage through the tangled brush that was so twined across our path, with nothing but an Indian foot trail, as to be otherwise impervious.  In some of the open places on the banks there were temporary huts erected, the spaces about them strewed with fish heads and bones in thick profusion, demonstrating the abundance, and showing, too, that they must have been of a good size; but as yet we could not lay eyes upon an Indian.  The river at length bent between two lofty hills, along the base of which the cotton-wood trees were too close to admit of a passage, and too gross to give room for the idea of cutting a line of them down; we therefore took a line inclining to the north, which here rose to a good altitude, exhibiting more recent effects of volcanic action than we had yet met with.  We saw plenty of deer-trail in the various dells we passed, and, in the absence of fish, and being now a long time without a change of fresh food, we organised a hunting party, who diverged from the trail, and were not long gone when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Now and then we could hear another halloo, and finally two shots saluted our ears, that at first startled me, thinking they might have been aimed at the flying Indians; but a recollection of our conversation after the late tragedy reassured me, and further confirmation was soon after added by the hunters themselves, carrying the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>After scrambling over about three miles of this sort of road, we struck the river again, and went up it a good distance, till we came to a low open tract, which it almost circumvented, the land appearing as if formed by the alluvial deposit of the stream, which, from the watermarks on the hill's sides, we saw covered it completely in the winter season.  It had a splendid crop of grass, on which we stopped to noon, and passing from it by a short narrow pass, came into full view of the great range of the Sierra Nevada, without an obstacle to prevent the eye from scanning the lowest ledge at the base, up to the highest peak in the clear blue azure heavens.  It was a noble and astonishing spectacle, especially calculated to arrest and fix the gaze of those only accustomed to behold our little insular tumuli.  The range was not more than nine miles off, in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Colonel Fremont thus describes the range:--"The great Sierra Nevada is part of the great mountain range, which under different names, and at different elevations, but with much uniformity of direction, and general proximity to the coast, extends from the peninsula of California to Russian America, and without a gap in the distance, through which the waters of the Rocky Mountains could reach the Pacific Ocean, except at two places where the Columbia and Frazer's River respectively find their passage.  The great range is remarkable for its length, its proximity, and its parallelism to the sea-coast; its great elevation, often more lofty than the Rocky Mountains, and its many grand volcanic peaks, reaching high into the region of perpetual snow, rising singly like pyramids from heavily-timbered plateaux, to the height of fourteen and seventeen thousand feet above the level of the sea.  These snowy peaks constitute the characterising feature of this range, and distinguish it from the Rocky Mountains and all others on our part of the continent.  That part of the range which traverses Alta California is called the Sierra Nevada (snowy mountains), a name in itself implying a great elevation, and is only applied in Spanish geography to the mountains whose summits penetrate the region of perpetual snow.  It is a grand feature of California, and a dominating one, and must be well understood before the structure of the country and the character of its different divisions can be comprehended.  It divides California into two parts, and exercises a decided influence on the climate, soil, and productions of each, stretching along the coast, and at a general <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:distance of one hundred and fifty miles from it.  This great mountain wall receives the warm winds charged with vapour, which sweep across the Pacific Ocean, precipitates their accumulated moisture in fertilising rain and snows upon its western flank, and leaves the cold dry winds to pass to the east.  Hence the differences of the two regions, mildness, fertility, and a superb vegetable kingdom on one side, comparative barrenness and cold on the other, the two sides of the Sierra Nevada exhibit two distinct climates.  The state of vegetation, in connexion with some thermometrical observations made during the recent exploring expedition to California, will establish and illustrate this difference.  In the beginning of December we crossed the Sierra at latitude 39 deg. 17 min. 12 sec, at the head of Salmon Trout River (about forty miles north of the Carson), forty miles north of New Helvetia, and made observations at each base, and in the same latitude, to determine the respective temperatures, the two bases being, respectively--the western base about five thousand feet, the eastern about four thousand feet above the level of the sea.  The mean result of the observations were--on the eastern side, at sunrise, 9 deg.; at noon, 44 deg; at sunset, 30 deg.; the state of the vegetation and the appearance of the country being at the same time (second week of December) that of confirmed winter, the rivers frozen over, snow on the ridges, annual plants dead, grass dry, and deciduous trees stripped of their foliage.  At the western base, the mean temperature during a corresponding week, was, at sunrise, 29 deg., and sunset, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>Our camp in the little Elysium was close under the mountains, at one of the several rivulets, the plain about us covered so profusely with clover blossoms, that in fact the animals could lie down and fill themselves on the spot, it grew in such luxuriant abundance.  We were busily engaged in supper preparations, grinding coffee, baking buns, and dusting some venison steak with pepper and salt for the pan, when two Indians came into camp, each carrying two glorious trout, weighing, I should say, five pounds each, formed and speckled without any distinguishable difference from our Irish salmon-trout:  those we got for two tattered flannel shirts, which furnished a supper that left nothing to be desired.  We gave the the Indians to understand we would take all they could bring, and treated them with marked kindness and hospitality, to try and banish their reserve, and establish a good feeling, which, as far as appearance would indicate, they seemed to reciprocate.  They were particularly delighted with the hot buns, but we made them use hard bread for filling stuff, not having enough of the others to spare for a full meal.  After supper some of the men took up their bows and commenced firing at a tree, without being able to hit it, whereupon they asked the Indians to shoot, which they appeared reluctant to do, but, on being pressed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>Next morning we were midway down the valley, when we saw a lot of Indians crossing it from the river, all carrying fish, which they catch in ingenious traps made of willow, laid in the likely haunts, from which the trout, once in, cannot escape.  They had upwards of two dozen very fine ones, from two to five pounds each; and although I had my doubts about their keeping until we could use them, I thought it right to keep my promise and take them all.  Not having buns, we made it up in old shirts, worn-out vests, and ventilating pantaloons, which one of those primitive fishermen endeavoured to use in an inverted shape, sticking his arms through the legs, and bringing his head where his bustle should be, until we pointed out the approved mode of getting into them; an operation, by the way, not so very easy, from the number of apertures that arrested his toes in their descent.  As yet we could not see any indentation or sign of a pass, but the Indians pointed to the river, motioning that by following it we would find the place.  On leaving this resplendent valley, I looked back on it as a beautiful picture I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The windings of the stream soon again involved us amidst hills and broken ground, through which we wended our way to where it took a decided eastern shoot.  There, directly before us, gaped the narrow opening, or can&tilde;on, through which we were to pass, I may say, through the bowels of the outer mountain wall.  It opened at its gorge into a crescent-shaped green lawn, on which stood a few of the most wondrous trees I ever beheld, piercing the clouds with their pointed tops, while it took three of us with joined hands to girth their stems, which measured good twenty feet in circumference--dimensions I would have regarded as incredible before I saw them, or, according to Yankee definition, "so almighty stout 'twould tire a rat to run round them."  The river came foaming through it in brawling cascades, leaving room enough, such as it was, for a mile to travel along it, but getting more compressed and gloomy as we advanced, the rent and fractured sides so approximating that it made one's flesh creep to look up and see huge crags suspended, you would imagine, by small fibrous twigs, hundreds of feet above your head, wanting only the vibration of an echo to break the frail ligatures, and grind you into eternity; and rent columns of rock, detached from the face of the precipice, standing with such a lean that the perching of a bird on them would cause a shudder lest it should destroy their equilibrium.  The path, too, if path it could be called, was unprecedentedly rugged, both mules <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>About one mile beyond the cataract the river bent over so close to the side we were on as to render a crossing imperative; but on examining and sounding it, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>Inside the outer wall of the mountain we had a delightful evening's journey, over rolling ground and through lovely glens, crowded with black-tailed deer; but as we had a stock of venison and fish, and were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:sure of meeting lots of deer all over the Sierra, we did not disturb them.  Towards evening we came to a lake close under the main ridges of the mountain, which explorers call Reed Lake--from the broad margin of reeds that surround it; and a short distance beyond the lake, came to the foot of the steep, where the trail curled up to the formidable pass, at the foot of which we halted for the night, to make preparations for the undertaking.  Had we met such an ascent in the earlier part of the journey, I fancy we would have pronounced it insurmountable, and turned back in despair; but having encountered so many dangerous places, and overcome so many difficulties, we became inured to hazard and toil, only regarding the greatest obstacles as merely perplexing, but never impossible; and as this was the only remaining one, we were resolved not to be stopped, if recourse was to be had to the agency of powder.  By way of experiment, in the evening, just to see if the animals could clamber up, or work in such a perpendicular posture, I tried my horse with a hold of his lariat; but when I brought him to the base of the ascent, he had as little idea of facing it as he would have of climbing a good wall, for, as one of the party said, "It was not onl y right up and down, but leant a little over."  I tried to persuade him first, and then to whip him; but neither was of any use; he did not comprehend me.  Not so old Sacramento (the mule), who, like a practised hod man, reared on end as soon as he was brought to the base, and commenced the escalade without an instant's hesitation, clambering frequently in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
053.sgm:<P>Commence the Ascent--Horses encouraged by the Mules to make the Trial--A Displaced Rock causes the Death of one of the Horses--The Damages and Difficulties of the Task--Frightful Chasm--Pure Cold Water--How we got up the Waggons--Danger from the Rocks rolling down--Deplorable Accident--Lose two Mules--Finish the Task--Make a Call on the Echoes of the Sierra Nevada--Winter Scenery in the Dog-days--Paddy Blake's Remark--Deceived as to the Summit of the Range--Drop into a Fertile Valley--Ascents and Descents--The Region of Perpetual Snow--Snow Stairs--Cold Nights--Adopt Indian Tactics--Description of the Mountain Scenery--Measurement of some Trees--Grizly Bear and Family--Moonlight Travel in the Mountain Pines--No Fruit; no Birds--Fertile Basin--The Manzanita--Indian Foray--Pleasant Valley--Californian Quail--Chilian Gold-Diggers--The first Sample of the veritable Stuff, and no mistake--Their Account of the Diggins--Dry Diggins--Average Returns--Weber Creek--End of the Journey for the Present--Time Employed--Our grateful Feelings at its Termination--Seal up the Property of our Departed Comrades--Acquaint their Friends of their melancholy Fate--The Contemplated Railway from the States to the Pacific--Distance Table from Independence to San Francisco. AT daylight we tied light packs on all the loose animals, and drove them at the ascent, at which the horses stopped, as if they could not believe us in earnest; but when they saw the mules climbing, they also made the attempt, while we kept shouting and cracking whips below, not daring to follow them exactly, from the quantity of gravel and stones they rolled down in their efforts to get up, which eventually caused the death of one of the horses; a fragment of displaced rock coming tumbling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:down, hit him in the forehead, when he fell back and was killed; another horse and a mule also fell backwards, but escaped with some bad cuts and bruises.  As soon as they reached the first ledge, we tightened all the packs, and commenced the next, which, being tortuous and amongst timber, was less difficult; but still very steep, and in portions excessively craggy, being much the longest of any.  This we surmounted without any accident--two others (one nearly as bad as the first) still remaining.  The third we also got over, after divers slips and falls, which brought us to the border of the snowy confines, having here rocky shelves to ascend, without any covering whatever, and scarcely enough of inequalities on their surface to afford any foot-holds for the animals.  We had infinite trouble with the horses here before we could get them to try it, and many of them would have turned back if they dared, after they got up a bit, as they glanced tremblingly down over their shoulders.  Sometimes one of them slipping would fall and come sliding down, knocking others off their legs, which it required great sprawling and floundering to regain; and others coming to their knees, remained like fixtures, fearing, if they stirred, they should come rolling down the whole way.  Near the top there was a very ugly turn, round the face of a perpendicular rock, with a dreadful chasm below, through which a roaring torrent was impetuously hurrying.  The loose animals passed it easily enough; but on measurement I found there were not more than seven or eight inches to spare for the waggons, should we succeed in getting them up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We unpacked all the animals, leaving the horses behind, from their being indifferent mountaineers, and descended again only with the mules for the remainder of the loading, as they did not require over two hands to drive them.  The rest of the men remained to aid in the first waggon attempt, which we commenced with five pair of mules , and long ropes made fast to the fore-carriage on each side, which were carried up and hitched round trees above, with men to take in the slack, and hold what they got at each stop, to prevent it pulling back the mules as they paused to breathe; from the point of the tongue, also, a rope was passed up, which twelve men hauled on, leaving next thing to nothing of draught.  Under this <HI REND="italics">modus operandi</HI>
053.sgm: we made the trial, and got on with remarkable success, the chief annoyance and danger being occasioned by the down rolling rocks and stones, which did inflict some nasty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>All up, we took off our hats and made the echoes of the Sierra Nevada acquainted with the mode of cheering in good society, which, their want of opportunities considered, they imitated with very commendable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:accuracy.  Few would have thought, as evening closed upon us in our eyrie, sitting shivering round a pine fire that would roast an elephant, with blankets and buffalo robes on our shoulders, encircled by the hoar lineaments of winter, and the lurid flames casting their murky tinge on the spotless drapery just above us, that we were in the middle of the rabid dog-days of July; and, while our friends at home were languidly sucking sherry-cobler through their straws, we were boiling the kettle for a bubbling tumbler of hot brandy-punch, "the great wonder being," as Paddy Blake once remarked, "that it was so much <HI REND="italics">coulder</HI>
053.sgm:<P>In our innocent simplicity we now regarded ourselves as on the summit of the Great Sierra Nevada, imagining we could step on the morrow into the glittering Valley of the Sacramento, and commence business at sight.  Next day, however, as we got through the gap, we descended into a valley, but not the one we set our hearts on, which did not, however, lie near so low as that we ascended from; nevertheless, we had frightful bumping and sliding before we got to the bottom.  It was circumvented with snow-capped peaks, the soil being most fertile, watered by a good sized river, but where it found its exit I did not stop to inquire.  We crossed it in a due west course, and wound up the opposite ridge in a serpentine maze, through a thickly-wooded forest of enormous pines peculiar to the region, and after attaining a great elevation sidled round its southern shoulder, and descended into another sheltered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We had another piercingly cold night, and in addition to the potatory expedients usual in such extreme cases, we were driven to adopt the Indian tactics, building two enormous fires, and sleeping without tents between them.  We seemed as yet to be in the centre of a mountainous system, peaks pointing up at every point of the compass, and no indication of a valley or a contiguous flat country.  There were many trying ascents and descents the next day, but our progress was evidently downwards, travelling a good deal on the backs of ridges, and whenever we descended, being obliged to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>The hills were all composed of reddish earth, the apex of a few just tipped with snow, with scarcely any surface rocks or stones, and, except in the hollows, altogether free of brush or underwood.  Scores of black-tailed deer were seen during the day, and right upon the path the trail of a grizly bear, that, from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>From this hollow we ascended a high ridge next morning, along the back of which we travelled, in a winding course, the greater part of the day, descending perceptibly all the time, getting at intervals a glimpse of the open level space to the westward, where lay the Valley of the Sacramento; but the lofty trees circumscribed the view, and although, from the peaks behind, we saw we had made a great descent, there was no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:<P>We came, early in the afternoon, on a well-beaten narrow path, like to an Indian trail, that diverged from the path, which I had the curiosity to follow, and found it led to a nice cool-shaded stream, and through the trees could see an open grassy space, which looked to me as if it had been cleared by settlers; but on entering it I discovered it was a natural basin of rich alluvion, with a crop of grass and clover, fitter for the scythe than browsing on.  I went immediately back and stopped the waggons, fixing the camp where they were, and driving the stock to the basin, where I left a guard to watch them.  Immediately round the verge of the basin there were clumps of low bushy shrubs, with deep green foliage, bearing a profusion of red berries, called by the natives the Californian apple, in botany the manzanita (little apple), which sheds its bark annually, leaving a handsome polished purple surface.  The Indians use the wood for arrows, and call it in their language arrow-wood.  In examining those I saw an animal, much like our hare in shape, with amazing large ears, and of a light grey colour; it did not move with the fleetness of the hare, but, when frightened, gave great, high, awkward bounds, very unfavourable to progression.  I also saw many bear tracks amongst the manzanita, of the fruit of which they are very fond, but was not fortunate enough to get a peep at the great original.</P>
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053.sgm:<P>Before dark one of the guard came up, reporting the neighbourhood of Indians, and asking for additional strength, which I willingly accorded, for, having come through such an extent of Indian territory scathless mainly owing to our cautious watchfulness, I would not now relax on the very threshold of our destination; and it was well I did not, for a considerable body of Indians came down during the night, making an attempt to drive off the stock; and no doubt would have succeeded only for the reinforcement.  The report of the shots reached the camp, and brought down all hands, but before our arrival the affair had terminated.</P>
053.sgm:<P>About eight miles of gradually descending travel from our camp brought us into a level valley, principally timbered with large white oak and the evergreen species ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus ilex</HI>
053.sgm:<P>At the westernmost extremity of the valley (which extends five or six miles) we encountered some Chilians on the banks of a little stream, all but dried up, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
053.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
053.sgm:looking for what we came thousands of miles in quest of.  It is scarcely necessary to state we halted to noon in their neighbourhood, to have our long day-dream interpreted, and see with mortal eyes the process of picking and washing gold from the common clay.  The operations just there happened to be on a limited scale; nevertheless, little as it was, it appeared marvellous to us, to see pansful of mud and dirt gathered, and, after a very short and simple species of washing, to find in the bottom of the basins a deposit of the veritable stuff itself; after which the doubts and fears, which, like the misty vapours of a summer's morning, hovered and floated over our brilliant expectations, rolled away and vanished as the golden sun became revealed.  It was now no longer an exaggerated fiction about the treasures of California; there was gold, and no mistake, mixed up with the very surface-clay of the country, a part and parcel of the soil, causing our friend of Goose Creek celebrity to go at it again, cheering and hurrahing <HI REND="italics">like anything</HI>
053.sgm:, to the great amazement of the strangers, who evidently thought he must have escaped from restraint.  One of the Chilians, who understood a little English, told us their party were in Weber Creek, about nine miles further down, and that they came away to look for new diggings.  They gave us a promising account of the gold regions in general, so far as their experience went, showing that any man who was industrious would be certain to be well repaid for his labours, if his health permitted him to continue at it steadily.  He also told us that provisions were scarce and dear in the diggings; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>We went on the same evening, passing through a few miners' huts in a deep valley, which was called Weber Town.  Here there was what are called, in professional phraseology, "dry diggins;" that is, where miners dig in the dry soil, picking out the particles from amongst the clay without the agency of water.  Of course it must be plentiful, and in good sized grains, when the eye can detect them mixed with the red clay; and much that is in mere dust must necessarily escape in the first instance, but in the wet season many of them wash their heaps over that they dry picked before, and with very great success.  I sat for half an hour by the side of a digger, watching how he worked, during which he frequently pointed me out particles in the earth, before he picked them out, that would certainly escape an unpractised eye.  He admitted he averaged one and a half ounce per day, working only about six hours.</P>
053.sgm:<P>About four miles lower down, passing through a hilly country, mixedly timbered with oak and fir, we came to a branch of Weber Creek, winding through an extensive basin, openly wooded, but offering good feed along the stream.  There was an excellent well, too, and a large encampment of Chilians, Mexicans, and a few Americans from the coast.  Here we also came to the determination of fixing our quarters, and making our maiden essays, pending further inquiries.  Although not absolutely in the Valley of Sacramento, we now regarded our great journey as accomplished, on the 26th day of July; thus having occupied one hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>Being, as I may say, in the first flight of the great overland emigration, and the foremost, too, of that flight, we had many difficulties to contend with from which subsequent caravans were exempt.  For instance, we had for the most part to break fresh paths, which were all the more travelable by those that followed; to make corduroy roads across morasses, dig away river banks, cut down and remove obstacles, construct rude bridges, force paths through craggy can&tilde;ons, smooth the ascent of escalades, ford and ferry over broad and rapid rivers, where ferries have since been established, and carry provisions for the whole route; whereas, now, there are various replenishing depo&circ;ts on the route; the great thoroughfare, too, rendering the attacks and incursions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:<P>The morning after our arrival I called all the party together, took an inventory of the effects of the two unfortunate young men who forfeited their lives in the expedition, and afterwards packed and sealed them up, writing to their friends an account of their melancholy fate; having an opportunity of forwarding the letters by one of our party, who was going to the city of Sacramento to consult a friend of his there as to whether gold digging or commerce was the most lucrative mode of employing his time.</P>
053.sgm:<P>Before taking leave of the Great Sierra Nevada for the present, it may be proper to remark that its eastern side differs materially in structure from its western flank; for while on the one the range rises in abrupt elevations, it subsides on the other in graduated lines of hills, that spread away in declining altitude until they melt into the Valley of Sacramento.  I heard much discussion in the States before I left on the contemplated railway over the continent to the Pacific, which may be possible, from the insensibly sloping nature of the country from the Kansas River to the summit of the Rocky Mountains, in which great distance their great elevation would not involve any insuperable gradient; but even admitting this, and that scientific scrutiny could tread its way through the mazes and can&tilde;ons in the Great Basin, I cannot conceive how the precipitous sides of the Sierra Nevada are to be surmounted by a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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053.sgm:locomotive, unless it be constructed on a <HI REND="italics">mule</HI>
053.sgm: power principle, of Yankee invention, the secret of which they have as yet kept to themselves.  Or perhaps they design a tunnel as the mode of dealing with the obstruction; and all I can say in that event is, that if they succeed they will effectually shut <HI REND="italics">Mr. Punch's</HI>
053.sgm:<P>I will here subjoin a short table of distances, as well as I could calculate them, allowing two and a half miles per hour as the rate of travelling when the trail was good and unobstructed, and making liberal and large deductions for all delays, accidents, and stoppages, beginning my count from the frontier town of Independence:</P>
053.sgm:<P>DISTANCE TABLE FROM INDEPENDENCE, MISSOURI, TO SAN FRANCISCO,<LB>ALTA CALIFORNIA.<LB>MILES.<LB>From Independence to Fort Laramie<HSEP>700</P>
053.sgm:<P>"  Laramie to the Pacific Springs<HSEP>325</P>
053.sgm:<P>"  Pacific Springs to Fort Bridger<HSEP>130</P>
053.sgm:<P>"  Fort Bridger to Salt Lake City<HSEP>112</P>
053.sgm:<P>"  Salt Lake City to the head-waters of Humboldt River<HSEP>329</P>
053.sgm:<P>"  Humboldt River to its Sink<HSEP>290</P>
053.sgm:<P>"  The Sink to the base of the Sierra Nevada<HSEP>157</P>
053.sgm:<P>"  The Eastern base to Weber Creek (our encampment)<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">115</HI>
053.sgm:<P><HSEP>2043</P>
053.sgm:<P>"  Weber Creek to Sacramento City<HSEP>38</P>
053.sgm:<P>"  Sacramento City to San Francisco, by the river<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">150</HI>
053.sgm:<P>Total distance from Independence to San Francisco<HSEP>2346</P>
053.sgm:<P>END OF VOL. I.</P>
054.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-054</TITLE>
054.sgm:<TITLE>An excursion to California over the prairie, Rocky mountains, and great Sierra Nevada.  With a stroll through the diggings and ranches of that country.  By William Kelly: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
054.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
054.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
054.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
054.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
054.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-0799</LCCN>
054.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
054.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
054.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:<P>AN <LB>EXCURSION TO CALIFORNIA <LB>OVER THE <LB>PRAIRIE, ROCKY MOUNTAINS, AND GREAT <LB>SIERRA NEVADA. WITH A <LB>STROLL THROUGH THE DIGGINGS AND RANCHES <LB>OF THAT COUNTRY.</p><P>BY WILLIAM KELLY, J.P.</p><P>IN TWO VOLUMES <LB>VOL. II</p><P>LONDON: <LB>CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY.<LB>MDCCCLL</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:<P>WHITING, BEAUFORT HOUSE, STRAND.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS OF VOL. II</HEAD>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XV.<LB>Business at Williams's Ranch--Sycamore Slough--State of the Trail--An unenviable Night's Board and Lodging--Sleetstorm--How we got over the Slough--A better Night's Quarters--An unwelcome Visit from Wild Cattle--They abduct our Oxen--Our Pursuit; its Difficulties, Dangers, and Success--How we dealt with the Truants--Feel the want of Water while trudging through the Mud--The Lone Oak--Mr. Harbin's Station--Cheap Beef--Mr. Harbin supplies with a Party to recover our missing Cattle--Their Mode of Procedure--Accept an Offer of a Morning's Amusement--Lassoing Wild Horses--Description of the Feat--Californian equestrian Accoutrements--The Sequel--Fatal Accident--Daring Feat of Horsemanship and Horse-training--Travel by Night to make up for lost Time--Reach Mr. Harbin's Head-quarters on Cash Creek--Californian Swine--Profitable and secure Stock--Scarcity of Sheep, and the Cause--Peculiar Conformation of the Rams--Wood-choppers on the Sacramento and its Tributaries--Shocking Aspect of the Plains as we approximate the City--How Sacramento grew in my short Absence--A Winter's Effect on the Style of Architecture--The City during the Flood--Evaporation <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
054.sgm: Drainage--The March of Enterprise--Scarcity of Lime--Its Domestic Consequences--Feeling on my Transition from Nomadic to City Life--Hotels and Pandemoniums increase in a like Ratio--Absence of Churches and Clergymen--A Field for Moral Reflections--The Press at Sacramento--Its Pharisaical Conduct--An Editorial Leader--Its natural Tendency--Editorial Puffs; how manufactured--Sacramento and its probable Destiny--How accounted for--Steam Navigation on the River--A Public Convenience a Private Mine of Wealth--A moderate Calculation--A Supper on board the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
054.sgm: --Prodigious Gastronomic Performance--"Odorous" Comparisons<HSEP>214<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>A Francisco Counting-house--A Ship converted into a Land Dwelling--Makes more Money on Shore than in her native Element--Marine Hotels and Boarding-houses--Magnificent View of the Bay of San Francisco--The immense Merchant Fleet in the Harbour--A melancholy Prospect--The Site of the Town--Its novel Appearance--Its picturesque Suburb--Shoalness of the Water along the Beach--Expense of discharging Vessels--Gradual filling up of the inner Harbour--Submarine Lot Speculations--Floating Warehouses--Character of the Buildings--Style of the Shops--Hotels, their Rates and Accommodations--Taverns and their Varieties--Chinese Settlers--Their Habits--Gaming-houses and their various Attractions--The Vice on the Decline--Probable Causes--Anecdote--Motley Groups--Bowling Alleys and Cockpits--Want of Theatrical Taste--The Courts and the Judges--Court Practices--Desk Protectors--The Custom-house and its Officials--Bad Feeling towards the British--The Quarantine Laws--The Tax on Foreigners<HSEP>239<LB>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>The Post-office--Slow Process of sorting--Eagerness for Intelligence-- <HI REND="italics">Letterary</HI>
054.sgm: Speculators--Rules of Approach--Scenes on Mail Deliveries--Jokes and Tricks--Amusing Occurrence--Effect of the System of changing Officials in the States--Houses of Worship--Their thin Congregations--Divine Service interrupted by the Bands of the Gambling-houses--Anomalous Progress of Vice in Francisco--It tinges Mercantile Integrity--Case in Point--A woful Disappointment--Lot Property in San Francisco--Invisible Suburbs--The Future of the City--Influx brings down Wages and favours small Capitalists--Indications of a Bachelor--Disproportion of the Sexes--Its probable Consequences--Auctioneers <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
054.sgm: Wholesale Merchants--Value of Money in California--Disagreeabilities of Francisco--The Climate provocative of pulmonary Ailments--The Markets--Number of Daily Papers--The old Spanish Presidio and Fort--The Entrance of the Harbour--Washerwoman's Bay--Sansolito--De los Angelos--Its picturesque Position--Advice to Emigrants--A little plain Reasoning--A simple Calculation<HSEP>252<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>Change my Mind about visiting the San Joaquim Valley--Reasons for so doing--Prevailing Character of the Country--Rice growing there profitable or not--Wild Horses in the Valley--Rare Pictures of Animated Nature--Colonel Fremont's Description of the Valley--Quartz stratifications about the Mariposas District--Dr. Marsh's Opinion of the Valley<HSEP>270</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>Prefaratory Observations--California first Discovered--The first Colonisation Expedition--Establishment of the early Missions--Their total Number--An Outline of their System--Their Success in teaching Trades and Husbandry, and in securing the Friendship of the Indians--Fraternisation of the Spaniards and Indians--Leads to Intermarriages--The Period from which the Missions began to Decline--Date of their complete Subversion--Flagitious Conduct of the Government of the Day--Those promising Establishments hasten to Decay--Extracts--Form of Government in Upper California in 1822--Presidios, Description of--Their Strength and Duties--The Missions--Dates of Foundation--Detailed Account of their Appearance and Construction--Indian Rancherias--Authority and Duties of the Reverend Fathers--Extent of the Missions--Number of Indians attached to them--Natural Habits of the Indians--The General Production of the Missions--They establish a Commerce in the Exportation of Hides--Inland Towns, their Number and Social Distinctions--Amusements--Fecundity of the Whites in California--Ports and Commerce--Value of their Exports<HSEP>276<LB>CHAPTER XX.<LB>Start for San Jose&acute;--Description of the Steamer--Uncomfortable <HI REND="italics">Fix</HI>
054.sgm: --The Passage--Appearance of the Passengers in the Morning--Aspect of the Country--The Embarcadero--A Yankee Version of the Navigation Laws--The Plains to the Pueblo--Outskirts of the Capital--The Capital itself--The Catholic Chapel--The Easter Festival--How it is celebrated--Easter Sunday Morning--The Spanish Carreta--Spanish Fashions, Customs, and Costumes--The Congregation--Beauty of the Females--The Men look a Mixed Breed--Introduced to an Irish Gentleman--Meet some old Acquaintances--Number of Irish Settlers in the Valley--Their great and uniform Prosperity--Curious Enigma--English and Scotch Settlers<HSEP>290<LB>CHAPTER XXI.<LB>The Mansion House Hotel--Civic Propensities of San Jose&acute; Squirrels--Senor Don Antonio Sunol--His Garden--Vineyard and Home-made Wines--Meet other noble Spaniards there--Horse-racing in California--Electioneering and Sporting on Easter Monday--The Course--Spanish Amenity <HI REND="italics">v</HI>
054.sgm:. American Rudeness--The Race--The Victors and the Vanquished--A Yankee Drinking Match--Monte Dealing--A Californian Ball--The Senate and the Assembly--Legislative Furniture and <HI REND="italics">Fixins</HI>
054.sgm: --"Wait for a Pause"--Mode of Discussion--Dinner Hour--Clerks and Messengers<HSEP>302<LB>CHAPTER XXII.<LB>Remove into Country Quarters--Enchanting Appearances of the Valley--Delightful Climate--Agriculture in the Valley--The Breed of Cattle--Comparative Qualities of Native and Foreign Beef--Instinct of Birds of Prey--Bringing Cattle over the Plains a Bad Speculation--Californian Horses--Their Powers of endurance--Often cruelly Taxed--System of Travelling--Their quick Sagacity in avoiding Squirrel Holes--Danger of Riding a Strange Horse over the Plains--Probable Cause of their Stunted Stature--Lassoing and Ox-throwing--Nice Palates of the Cattle--Domestic Fowls and Animals--Few varieties of Game--Visit the Quicksilver Mines--Take a turn through the Ranches--No Butter, no Cheese in the Spanish Houses, owing to the Indolence of the Males--Other Evidences of their unconquerable Sloth--Fastidiousness of the Women in Washing--The Process--The Duties of the Men--Hospitality of the Spaniards--No expense in Travelling through the Valley--A charming Senoritta--The Incident of the handsome Trunk--Mode of Californian Courtship--Invited to a Wedding--Continue my Rambles--The Mustard-weed Nuisance<HSEP>311<LB>CHAPTER XXIII.<LB>Vexations of Authorship--Indian Imitativeness--Start for San Francisco--Find the Steamer withdrawn--A Bull F- <HI REND="italics">r</HI>
054.sgm: -ight--Fatal Termination--Arrive at Mr. Martin's Ranch--The Accident of his Settlement--Senora Martin and Family--The House and Furniture--Arrangements for Travelling--Attend Divine Service at the Mission of Santa Clara--Appearance of the Mission--Devotional <HI REND="italics">Alameda</HI>
054.sgm: --Buttresses or Pillars of the Church--Carved and Painted Parables--State of Affairs at the Mission--Abortive Attempts of the Jesuits to found Schools in the Valley--Predicament of the Settlers on Church Property--Scene of Leavetaking--Presents, Emotions, and Reflections--Scenery along the Bay--The Rancho of Don Antonio Sanchez--The Mission of St. Francis Dolores--Francisco Cockneys--The remainder of the Road--My Farewell and Peroration<HSEP>324</p></DIV>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Geographical Sketch of California--Its Boundaries--Its Extent of Territory--Its peculiar Position--Its Rivers--Its Second Grand Division--Persia its Type as to Structure and Appearance--Italy as to Climate, Soil, and Productions--Valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquim--Contrast between the Past and Present Aspect of the Country--What Vancouver and Humboldt found it--Its Property under the Missions--Its Productions under their Establishment--The Rivers Sacramento and San Joaquim--The Tributaries of those Rivers--Fremont's Description of the Bay of San Francisco and adjoining Country--Its Size--Mount Diavolo--Chrysopylae--Valleys of San Jose&acute; and San Juan--Cuestos de los Gatos--Quicksilver Mines--Mission of Santa Clara--Strait of Carquines connects San Pablo and Suisoon Bays--Sonoma--California compared with Italy--Its unique Advantages and favourable Geographical Position--Some of Colonel Fremont's Opinions combated--The Influences of high behests on Authors.</p><P>THIS, I conceive, is the proper place for briefly adverting to the geographical position of the country for the general information of the reader, who is, for the most part, under the impression that the celebrated region of California is confined between the ranges of the Sierra Nevada and the coast range mountains.  Geographically speaking, California is bounded on the north by Oregon, the 42nd degree of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:north latitude, being the boundary line between the two territories; on the east by the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra de los Mimbres, a continuation of the same range; on the south by Sonora and Old or Lower California; and on the west by the Pacific Ocean.  Its extreme length is seven hundred miles, and its breadth close upon eight hundred miles, comprising an area of 400,000 square miles; but only a comparatively small portion of this extensive territory is fertile or fit for settlement, a mere fraction of that part lying in the Great Interior Basin, between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, being aught else than arid sand deserts, covered with artemesia, and wholly incapable of cultivation or reclamation; and the border between the coast range and the ocean, being also for the most part uninviting to the emigrant, save he who sits down in quest of minerals; so that I may say California, properly speaking, is confined to the valleys of the Sacramento and the San Joaquim, lying between the west flank of the Sierra Nevada and the eastern base of the coast range mountains.</p><P>In the Great Basin, besides the rivers I have before adverted to as having been met directly in my route, there is the Rio Colarado or Red River, which has a course of one thousand miles, emptying into the Gulf of California, and having for its northern tributaries Green and Grand Rivers, both of considerable volume, rising in the Rocky Mountains; and Sevier, Virgin, and Gila Rivers, which it receives near its mouth.  The inhospitable region through which the Colarado flows has not even been partially explored, and little is known about the river save <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the vague narratives of adventurous trappers who have penetrated to its banks in pursuit of beaver, who describe it as unfit for navigable purposes from the extreme rapidity of its current, and the stupendous falls and can&tilde;ons it passes in its course, running for several miles at a time in a series of roaring cataracts, so deep between the perpendicular cliffs of mountain precipices, that even the white foam of its waters are only dimly discernible in the gloomy chasms, while its thundering voice penetrates days' journeys over the echoless wastes of the surrounding deserts.</p><P>Curiosity or science may stimulate private individuals, or those in the employ of government, to trace and describe it minutely; but from the nature of the tracts in which its channel lies, its waters, even if navigable, could not be subservient to useful or civilising ends.  The Utah and Timpanagos discharge themselves into the Utah Lakes on the east, after gathering their copious streams in the adjoining parts of the Wah-Satch and Timpanagos Mountains.  Nicolett River rising south, in the long range of the Wah-Satch Mountains, falls into a lake of its own name, after making an arable valley of 200 miles in length, through a mountainous country.  Salmon-trout River rising in the west, running down from the Sierra Nevada, falls into Pyramid Lake after a course of about 100 miles from its source; one-third of the valley is a pine timbered country, and for the remainder of the way it runs through very rocky naked ridges.  It is remarkable for the abundance and excellence of its salmon-trout, and presents some good ground for cultivation.  Walker River, a clear, handsome stream, nearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:100 miles long, coming, like the preceding, down the eastern flank of the Sierra Nevada, forms a lake of its own near its base: it contains salmon-trout, and forms some bottoms of good arable land.  Owen River, issuing from the Sierra Nevada on the south, is a large bold stream, about 120 miles long, gathering its waters in the Sierra Nevada, and, flowing to the southward, forms a lake about fifteen miles long at the base of the mountain.  At a medium stage it is four or five feet deep--in places fifteen--wooded with willow and cotton wood, and makes continuous bottoms of fertile land, at intervals rendered marshy by springs and small affluents from the mountains: the water of the lake in which it terminates has an unpleasant smell and bad taste, but around its shores are found small streams of pure water and good grass.  The only lakes of the Great Basin, except those that constitute the Sinks of their respective rivers, are Salt, Utah, and Pyramid Lakes, which latter takes its name from a very high pyramidical island in its centre.  The mountains have already been described in Colonel Fremont's account of the Great Basin.</p><P>"West of the Sierra Nevada (I quote from the same authority), and between that mountain and the sea, is the second grand division of California, and the only part to which the name applies, in the current language of the country.  It is the occupied and inhabited part, and so different in character, so divided by the mountain wall of the Sierra from the Great Basin above, as to constitute a region to itself, with a structure and configuration, a soil, a climate, and productions of its own; and as Northern Persia may be referred to as some type of the former, so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:may Italy be referred to as some point of comparison for the latter.  North and south this region embraces about 10 deg. of latitude; from 32 deg. where it touches the peninsula of California, to 42 deg. where it bounds Oregon.  East and west from the Sierra Nevada to the sea, it will average, in the middle parts, 150 miles; in the northern, 200--giving an area of about 100,000 square miles.</p><P>"Looking westward from the summit of the Sierra, the main feature presented is the long, low, broad valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquim Rivers, the two valleys forming one 500 miles long and fifty broad, lying along the base of the Sierra, and bounded to the west by the low range of coast mountains, which separates it from the sea.  Long dark lines of timber indicate the streams, and bright spots mark the intervening plains; lateral ranges, parallel to the Sierra Nevada and the coast, make the structure of the country, and break it into a surface of valleys and mountains--the valleys a few hundred, the mountains to 4000 feet above the level of the sea.  These form greater masses, and become more elevated to the north, where some peaks, as the Shastl, enter the regions of perpetual snow, stretched along the mild coast of the Pacific, with a general elevation in its plains and valleys of only a few hundred feet above the level of the sea, and backed by the long and lofty wall of the Sierra Nevada, mildness and geniality may be assumed as the characteristic of its climate.  The inhabitant of corresponding latitudes on the Atlantic side of the continent, can with difficulty conceive the soft air and southern productions in the same latitude in the maritime regions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:of Upper California.  The singular beauty and purity of the sky in the south of this region is characterised by Humboldt as a rare phenomenon, and all travellers realise the truth of this description.</p><P>"The present condition of the country affords but slight data for forming correct opinions of the agricultural capacity and fertility of the soil.  Vancouver found at the Mission of San Benaventura, in 1972, latitude 34 deg. 16 min., apples, pears, plums, figs, oranges, grapes, peaches, and pomegranates growing together, with plantain, banana, cocoa-nut, sugar-cane, and indigo, all yielding fruit in abundance, and of excellent quality.  Humboldt mentions the olive oil of California as equal to that of Andalusia, and the wine like that of the Canary Islands.  At present but little remains of this high and varied cultivation which had been attained at the Mission, under the mild and paternal administration of "the fathers." The docile character of the Indians was made available for labour, and thousands were employed in the fields, the orchards, and the vineyards.  At present but little of this cultivation is seen; the fertile valleys overgrown with wild mustard, vineyards and olive orchards decayed and neglected, are among the remaining vestiges.  Only in some places do we see evidences of what the country is capable.  At San Benaventura we found the olive-trees, in January, bending under the weight of neglected fruit; and the Mission of San Louis Obispo (latitude 35 deg.) is still distinguished for the excellence of its olives--considered larger and finer than those of the Mediterranean.  The productions of the south differ from those of the north and the middle.  Grapes, olives, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:Indian corn have been its staples, with many assimilated fruits and grains.  Tobacco has been recently introduced; and the uniform summer-heat that follows the wet season, and is uninterrupted by rain, would make the southern country well adapted for cotton.  Wheat is the first production of the north, where it always constituted the principal cultivation of Missions.  This promises to be the graingrowing region of California.  The moisture of the coast seems particularly suited for the potato and vegetables common to the United States, which grow to an uncommon size.</p><P>"Perhaps few parts of the world can produce in such perfection so great a variety of fruits, and vegetables, and grains, as the large and various regions enclosing the Bay of San Francisco, and drained by its waters.  A view of the map will show that region and its great extent, comprehending the entire valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquim, and the whole western slope of the Sierra Nevada.  These valleys are one, discriminated only by the names of the rivers which traverse it.  It is a single valley--a single geographical formation--near five hundred miles long, lying at the western base of the Sierra Nevada, and between it and the coast range of mountains, and stretching across the head of the Bay of San Francisco, with which a delta of twenty-five miles connects it.  The two great rivers, the Sacramento and the San Joaquim, rise at opposite ends of this long valley, receive numerous mountain streams, many of them bold rivers, from the Sierra Nevada, become themselves navigable rivers, flow towards each other, meet half-way, and enter the Bay of Francisco <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:together in the region of tide water, making a continuous water-line from one end to the other."</p><P>The other rivers are all tributaries of those main ones, with the exception of Trinity, which disembogues into the Pacific Ocean, near the confines of Oregon.  The principal affluents of the Sacramento are the Rio de los Plumas, the Juba, the North, Middle, and South Forks (as they are called), and the Rio de los Americanos, most of which are partly navigable, flowing from the western flank of the Sierra Nevada, and running in large portions of their courses through fertile land, over-abounding in salmon, and rich in golden deposits.  Those of the San Joaquim are the Mo-kel-um-ne, the Stanislaus, the Rio de los Coscumnes, the Yo-wal-um-ne, the Aux-um-nes, and the Tulare Lakes River, one of the largest and handsomest in the valley, being one hundred yards wide, and having, perhaps, a larger portion of fertile land than any other.  Like the affluents of the Sacramento, they flow down from the Sierra and are partially navigable, abounding in salmon and golden treasures.  There is no system of lakes in this portion of California, the few that exist not being of such dimensions as to render them worthy of that appellation, the entire drainage of the immense valley being carried in quick copious streams by the rivers above enumerated, and their several smaller tributaries into the main ones, and thence into the Bay of San Francisco, in its upper estuary called Suisoon Bay.</p><P>Fremont thus describes the Bay of San Francisco:--"It has been celebrated from the time of its first discovery as one of the finest in the world, and is justly entitled to that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:character even under the seaman's view of a mere harbour; but when all the accessory advantages which belong to its fertile, picturesque, dependent country; mildness and salubrity of climate; connexion with the great interior valley of the Sacremento and San Joaquim; its vast resources for ship timber, grain and cattle--when these advantages are taken into account with its geographical position on the line of communication with Asia, it rises into an importance far above a mere harbour, and deserves particular notice in any account of maritime California. Its latitudinal position is that of Lisbon--its climate is that of southern Italy.  Settlements on it for more than half a century attest its healthfulness; bold shores and mountains give it grandeur; the extent and fertility of its dependent country give it great resources for agriculture, commerce, and population.</p><P>"The Bay of San Francisco is separated from the sea by low mountain ranges, looking from the peaks of the Sierra Nevada.  The coast mountains present an apparently continuous line, with only a single gap resembling a mountain pass.  This is the only water communication from the coast to the interior country; approaching from the sea the coast, it presents a bold outline.  On the south the bordering mountains come down in a narrow ridge of broken hills, terminating in a precipitous point, against which the sea breaks heavily.  On the northern side the mountain presents a bold promontory, rising in a few miles to a height of two or three thousand feet.  Between these points is the strait, about a mile broad in the narrowest part, and five miles long from the sea to the bay.  Passing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:through this gate<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: the bay opens to the right and left, extending in each direction about thirty-five miles, having a total length of more than seventy miles, and a coast of two hundred and seventy-five miles.  It is divided by straits and projecting points into three separate bays, of which the northern two are called San Pablo and Suisoon Bays.  Within, the view presented is a mountainous country, the bay resembling an interior lake of deep water, lying between parallel ranges of mountains.  Islands which have the bold character of the shores, some mere masses of rock, others grass covered, rising to the height of three and eight hundred feet, break its surface, and add to its picturesque appearance.  Directly fronting the entrance, mountains a few miles from the shore rise about two thousand feet above the level of the water, crowned by a forest of lofty cypress, which is visible from the sea, and make a conspicuous landmark for vessels entering the bay.  Behind, the rugged peak of Mount Diavolo, nearly four thousand feet high, overlooks the surrounding country of the bay and the San Joaquim.  The immediate shores of the bay derives, from its proximate and opposite relation to the sea, the name of Contra Costa (counter coast or opposite coast).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Called Chrysophylae (golden gate) on the map, on the same principle that the harbour of Byzantium (Constantinople afterwards) was called Chrysoceres (golden horn), the form of the harbour and its advantages of commerce; and that, before it became an entrepo&circ;t for Eastern commerce, suggested the name to the Greek founders of Byzantium.  The form of the entrance into the Bay of San Francisco and its advantages for commerce (Asiatic inclusive) suggests the name which is given to this entrance.</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>"It presents a varied character of rugged and broken hills, rolling and undulating land, and rich alluvial shores, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:backed by fertile and wooded ranges suitable for towns, villages, and farms, with which it is beginning to be dotted.  A low alluvial bottom land, several miles in breadth, with occasional open woods of oak, borders the foot of the mountains around the southern arm of the bay, terminating in a breadth of twenty miles in the fertile valley of St. Joseph, a narrow plain of rich alluvial soil, lying between ranges from two to three thousand feet high.  The valley is openly wooded with groves of oak, free from any underbrush, and, after the spring rains, covered with grass.  Taken in connexion with the Valley of San Juan, with which it forms a continuous plain, it is fifty-five miles long, and from one to twenty broad, opening into smaller valleys amongst the hills.  At the head of the bay it is twenty miles broad, and about the same at the southern end, where the soil is beautifully fertile, covered in the summer with four or five varieties of wild clover.  In many places it is overgrown with wild mustard, growing to ten or twelve feet high, in almost impenetrable fields, through which roads are made, like lanes.</p><P>"On both sides the mountains are fertile, wooded, or covered with grasses and scattered trees.  On the west it is protected from the chilly influence of the north-west winds by the Cuestos de los Gatos (wild cat ridge), which separates it from the coast.  This is a grassy, timbered mountain, watered with small streams, and wooded on both sides with many varieties of trees and shrubbery, the heavier forest pine and cypress occupying the western slope.  Timber and shingle are now obtained from this mountain, and one of the recently discovered quicksilver <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:mines is on the eastern side of the mountain, near the Pueblo of San Jose&acute;.  This range terminates in the south in the Anno Nuevo point of Monterey Bay, and in the north declines into a broken ridge of hills, about five miles wide, between the bay and the sea, and having the town of San Francisco on the bay shore near its northern extremity, sheltered from the cold winds and fog of the sea, and having a soil of remarkable fertility.  The Valley of St. Joseph (San Jose&acute;) is capable of producing in great perfection many fruits and grains that do not thrive on the coast or its immediate vicinity, without taking into consideration the extraordinary yields which have sometimes occurred.  The fair average product of wheat is estimated at fifty-fold.  The Mission establishments of Santa Clara and San Jose&acute;, in the north of the valley, were formerly, in the prosperous days of the Mission, distinguished for the superiority of their wheat crops.</p><P>"The slope of alluvial land continues around the eastern shores of the bays, intersected with small streams, in which good landing and deep water, with advantageous positions between the sea and the interior of the country, indicate for future settlement.  The Strait of Carquines, about one mile broad, and eight to ten fathoms deep, connects the San Pablo and Suisoon Bays.  Around these bays smaller valleys open into the bordering country, and some of the streams have launch navigation, which serve to convey the produce to the bay.  Missions and large farms were established at the head of navigation on these streams, which are favourable sites for towns or villages.</p><P>"The country around Suisoon Bay presents low smooth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:ridges and rounded hills, clothed with wild oats, and more or less openly wooded on their summits.  Approaching its northern shores from Sonoma, it assumes, though in a state of nature, a cultivated and beautiful appearance; wild oats cover its continuous fields, and herds of wild cattle, and bands of wild horses, are scattered over low hills and partly isolated ridges, where blue mists and openings amongst the abruptly terminating hills indicate the neighbourhood of the bay.  The Suisoon is connected with an expansion of the river, formed by the junction of the Sacramento and the San Joaquim, which enter the Francisco Bay at the same latitude nearly as the mouth of the Tagus at Lisbon.  A delta of twenty-five miles in length, divided into islands by channels, connects the bay with the valleys of the Sacramento and the San Joaquim, into the mouth of which the tide flows, and which enter the bay together as one river.</p><P>"Such is the bay and proximate country; it is not a mere indentation of the coast, but a little sea to itself, connected with the ocean by a defensible gate, opening out between seventy and eighty miles to the right and left, upon a breadth of fifteen, deep enough for the largest ships; with bold shores suitable for towns and settlements, and fertile adjacent country for cultivation.  The head of the bay is about forty miles from the sea, and there connects it with the noble valleys of the Sacramento and the San Joaquim.  Thus California, below the Sierra Nevada, is about the extent of Italy, geographically considered, in all the extent of Italy from the Alps to the termination of the peninsula; it is of the same length, same breadth, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:consequently the same area (about one hundred thousand square miles), and presents much similarity of climate and productions.  Like Italy, it lies north and south, and presents some differences of climate and productions--the effect of the difference of latitude, proximity of high mountains, and configuration of the coast.  Like Italy, it is a country of mountains and valleys; different from it in internal structure, it is formed for unity, its large rivers being concentric, and its large valleys appurtenant to the great central Bay of San Francisco, within the area of whose waters the dominating power must be found.  Geographically, the position of California is one of the best in the world, lying on the coast of the Pacific Ocean, fronting Asia, on the line of an American road to Asia, and possessed of advantages to give full effect to its geographical position."</p><P>I quote thus liberally from Fremont, because he is the very highest and most correct authority on most matters connected with the new and unsettled portions of the North American continent.  But, while I admit that everything he lays down or asserts, so far as geography or science are involved, is as correct as possible, I beg leave respectfully to question his opinions as to the agricultural resources of California, the salubrity of its climate,<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: and general healthfulness.  The soil, I admit, is of unsurpassing quality, made up of constituent qualities and ingredients, capable of producing any crop only for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:adverse operation of the seasons, which keep it saturated, and in most places submerged in water, from November until April, rendering it physically impossible to prepare the land, much less to sow the seed during that period; and then before July it is so baked and cracked under a hot and cloudless sun, that not only is all further vegetation arrested, but everything above ground is crisped, and ready to fall into powder at the touch; while the streams that might be supposed available for irrigation are, in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, completely dry.  Thus there would be only three months to plough and harrow, sow and reap--a period infinitely too circumscribed for the maturation of any grain, and most vegetables.  There are a few highly-favoured localities where, I believe, wheat might be raised; but even in those places, peopled as they now are with enterprising settlers from the old country, I did not see a single patch of grain, and only heard vague missionary traditions of it once having been grown there.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">When I first arrived in California, before I had extensive opportunities of observation, I wrote to a leading London journal describing the climate as genial, and generally suitable for those afflicted with pulmonary complaints; however, a lengthened sojourn has given me reason to change that opinion.</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>But, after all, the state of agricultural advancement and prosperity at the Missions noticed by Vancouver and Humboldt, is no criterion to go by in ascribing a general character of similar fertility to an entire country of such vast extent as California.  It would be quite as fair to assert that a whole kingdom must be educated and enlightened because in some few of its provinces or subdivisions there are colleges or seminaries that turn out accomplished scholars.  We all know that when men are accorded an unlimited choice, the instigations of human nature will prompt them to make the most promising selections; and when to the dominion of free will is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:superadded the proverbial acuteness and discrimination of the Jesuits, since the days of Ignatius Loyola, it may be taken for granted that they picked out the most fertile and favoured positions in California for the foundation of their establishments, and, with their accustomed energy and perseverance, taxed and stimulated the soil in those pet positions to the utmost extent of its fecundity, taking care that sources of irrigation were contiguous and available, to make up for the short-comings of nature in its ministrations of fertilising moisture.  So, I repeat, it is unfair to parade the productions of those picked and forced gardens, which, taken together, would not constitute a respectable parish, as evidence that the whole wing of a great continent is capable of yielding similar productions.</p><P>I will go with Colonel Fremont in saying, that the great natural wall of the Sierra Nevada produces many modifying influences on the climate, owing to which tropical fruits may be produced at high northern latitudes.  But, according to my experience, my humble opinion is, that California must ever be mainly dependent on the States, Oregon, Chili, and the Sandwich Islands, for its supply of bread-stuffs and the other great vegetable staples of existence; as to the climate, there is only one opinion amongst the people now resident there, which is, that it is highly unhealthy.  I was not surprised to find it so in the mines, where people were working hard under unusual circumstances and severe privations; but even in the cities and towns robust health is the exception, there being a regular invalid passenger trade between Francisco and Honolulu, while burial-grounds in every settled locality extend their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:dimensions with a fearful rapidity, that is quite as convincing as the most regular bills of mortality--strong confirmation of both of which opinions will appear in the course of the work.  But Colonel Fremont wrote at the instance of the United States' Government, who were anxious to array their newly-acquired territory in all the choicest attributes of nature; and I believe it is generally admitted (even in the case of Sir Walter Scott's "Life of Napoleon") that men, acting under high behests, are liable to adopt the partialities and prejudices of their patrons.  Even painters of celebrity have been known to jeopardise their fame as faithful delineators, in order to suit the views of parasites who had flattered a dear friend to sit for his portrait.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>How our Party split up into Sections--Our Apprenticeship to Gold-washing--The Mode of Proceeding--Average Returns--Cradles or Gold-washers; how constructed--Visit the Mill--The System of transacting Business there--Arrival of Mr. Goodyear and a Pack Mule Train--The Sad News they bring--Dandy Diggers--Their Tools, and the Way in which they used them--Ungenerous Conduct of the Americans towards the Chilians--The Weber Diggings--Miners' Laws--Summary Punishment--Sickness in the Weber Diggings--Leave my Companions on a Tour--Lower Weber Diggings--A Californian Ranchero--Charge for Grazing--Returns on the Lower Weber--Dysentery there--Cutaneous Poison--The Great Canon Diggings--A Description of them--Sly Trick--The Trade of the Canon.</p><P>While on the road we were a sort of joint-stock company, but now that we reached the sphere of operations we divided into different parties, some starting for the cities to build up their fortunes, others remaining to accumulate them in the mines.  Fifteen of the latter remained, in three independent parties of five each, but though our gains were distinct, we erected our quarters beside each other, selected our working locations in the same neighbourhood, and communicated candidly to one another all the information we could collect.  We spent a novitiate of three days amongst the Chilians and Mexicans, looking on at their operations, and getting odd lessons in the art of imparting the rotatory motion to the contents of wash-basin, so as to surge a portion of the liquid mud over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the edge at each sweep, until nothing but the gold and black sand remained; the process being simply, after throwing aside the surface-clay or sand, to loosen the hard packed soil with picks, scrape it with a horn-scoop into a basin, then dip it until it became saturated with water, when you sink your hands into the mass, removing the stones, and in searching for them mixing all into a thick fluid.  This you cause to go round and round, some of the top escaping at each revolution; more water is occasionally taken in, until all the earthy particles are carried away; then comes the process of separating the black sand, which, being of great specific gravity, requires great care and nicety, else some of the finer particles of gold may escape with it.  But in places where it particularly abounds, and the gold runs small, the separation is effected by the agency of quicksilver, simply by pouring it amongst the black sand and gold dust, adding some water, and mixing it about; the quicksilver, in its great affinity for the precious metal, gathering all the particles it comes in contact with, until it becomes a little massive tangible heap, devoid of its elusive character, when it is put into a buckskin cloth, and the quicksilver separated by being compressed through the pores of the leather, the slight portion remaining adhered to the gold being evaporated on a heated pan or shovel.</p><P>An expert hand, in anything like ready ground, can gather and wash a panful every ten minutes, and the place that does not yield a quarter of a dollar to the panful is not considered worth working by that process, though it would give 1 dol. 50 c. per hour, or twelve <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:dollars per day of eight hours' working--good wages for those who at home would have considered it a fair weekly wage, at twelve hours' constant labour each day, but vastly too small for the large class "who, just for a lark," come out to rough it a bit, and get enough in a few months to enable them to set up as fine gentlemen for life.  But places that would not pay according to the above estimate with pans can be made to yield satisfactorily with cradles, or washers as some call them, because so much larger a proportion of work can be got through in that machine, which is constructed by making a semi-circular trough, say five feet long by sixteen inches in diameter, and placing on the upper end of the top a perforated iron or copper plate, eighteen inches long, the exact breadth of the trough, with a raised wooden rim of four inches, and, immediately under it, tending to the centre of the cradle, a bar or ridge about half an inch high, with another of a similar description at the extreme end, where an upright handle (if the cradle is of a large size) about four feet long is stuck, by which the motion is imparted.  In smaller ones, where the number of the mess is limited, the rocker sits at the end of the cradle, rocking with one hand and pouring in the water with the other on the dirt which is thrown on the plate, and as the gold and gravel are separated from the stones, and washed down, the current carries the gravel over the bars, while the gold, being of so much greater gravity, is intercepted, the lower bar arresting any that by a jolt or awkward shake may have got over the upper one.</p><P>At the end of three days we acquired a sufficient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:proficiency to set up for ourselves, in a place kindly selected by a Chilian acquaintance, and succeeded in gathering a daily average of a good ounce to each hand--rather better than half what our more experienced neighbours were making; but as our provisions were running low, I made one of a party to go to the Mill, which town takes its name from a saw-mill being its nucleus, in the direction of which the gold was first discovered.  It is situated on the south fork of the Sacramento, about forty-five miles from the embarcadero, as the city of Sacramento is called by the miners, and being a point from which several rich and favourite diggings radiate, is fast growing into a large and flourishing place, with a goodly proportion of stone buildings, from the convenience of quarries.  I here got my first sample of Californian prices, in paying fifty cents "for a drink," as a small glass of bad brandy is designated, and in a like ratio for everything else.</p><P>Almost every house was a tap, and contained an apartment consecrated to the god of gambling, where a parcel of hawks, with whetted beaks, were lying in wait for green pigeons; and although improvident miners were invariably relieved of their gold-dust in those nefarious haunts, they punctually came every Saturday evening, as if under the spell of some mystical fascination, to deposit their gold in those sinking-funds, spending their week's earnings and their Sundays in this insensible and reprehensible manner, first reduced to a state of partial stupefaction by adulterated drink, and then cheated according to the most compendious mode of modern greeking.  I found, too, in my limited transactions, that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:malpractices of the Millites were not confined to the gaming table, false weights and measures being consistently associated with false dice, which told with double effect against the purchaser, dust being the circulating medium; for he had his goods weighed with light weights, and his gold weighed with heavy ones.  I, of course, bought as sparingly as I could, determined to go to Sacramento for further supplies.  I brought, however, with me a small cradle, for which I paid the moderate sum of 3 oz.,48 dollars, two of which a tradesman could make in a day, and all the materials of both would not cost, even at the Mill, more than 1 oz., 16 dollars, which left a very handsome margin for remuneration.</p><P>The country between our encampment and the Mill is a succession of hills and dales, tapering down from the Sierra Nevada, moderately wooded, with great numbers of quail, some deer, and hares.  I fully expected to have seen some handsome varieties of the feathered tribe, but there were no birds of any gaudier tints of plumage than my old acquaintance the crow, the blackbird, and the magpie, who seemed to be all "chips of the old block" peculiar to Britain.</p><P>On my return to camp, I found Mr. Goodyear's caballada, together with a pack-mule train, had arrived, the latter in a wretched state, and reporting, even at that early date, great sufferings on Humboldt River.  By means of the cradle we augmented our daily income by half an ounce, and on one day actually divided fifty dollars per man; but this was a most unusual amount, and occurred by our meeting a peculiar shelve, where the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:deposit was very thick.  By the end of the week another pack-mule company came in, and several fresh hands from the coast, all the latter of the amateur or dandy class of diggers, in kid gloves and patent leather boots, with flash accoutrements and fancy implements, their polished picks with mahogany handles, and shiny shovels, resembling that presentation class of tools given to lords, baronets, and members of parliament, to lay a first stone, or turn the first sod on a new line of railway.  It was good fun to see those "gents" nibbling at the useless soil, and then endeavouring to work their pans, with out-stretched hands, lest they should slobber their ducks.  Subsequently I used to meet numbers of that school wending back to the coast from the various diggings, "damning the infernal gold," and "cutting the beastly diggins" in disgust.</p><P>Nine-tenths of the new arrivals were Americans, who resorted, as we did in the first instance, to the Chilians and Mexicans for instruction and information, which they gave them with cheerful alacrity; but as soon as Jonathan got an inkling of the system, with peculiar bad taste and ungenerous feeling he organised a crusade against those obliging strangers, and ran them off the creek at the pistol mouth.  Our messes were canvassed to take part in the affair, but declined becoming engaged in any such proceeding, which had like to have led to our own expulsion likewise; in fact, the Yankees regarded every man but a native American as an inteloper, who had no right to come to California to pick up the gold of the free and enlightened citizens.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>The gold at the Weber diggings was all in moderate sized particles, and of particularly fine and pure quality, less capriciously deposited than in most of the other diggings I visited, the average returns of all being tolerably uniform where similar industry was employed.  All hands fixed themselves on the borders of the creek for the convenience of water, but I found the dirt (the technical name of the soil subjected to the washing ordeal) on the hillside, at a good elevation above the stream or its winter water-marks, fully as rich as that along its banks.  I even carried dirt in a kerchief from the very hill tops, and got a good return from it--a proof that it was not altogether scattered over the country by the influence of the floods, the prevalent opinion amongst the earlier miners.</p><P>In a comparatively short time we had a large community on the creek, which led to rows and altercations about boundaries, that eventuated in an arrangement, entered into by unanimous agreement, that each person should have ten feet square, which, multiplied by the number of the mess, gave the limits of the allotment in a particular location; it did not debar a man, however, from moving from one site and fixing on another, and as long as any one left his tools in the space his claim was respected.  There was another branch of legislation soon called for to repress a system of thieving that was fast spreading; but the code of the famous Judge Lynch was unanimously adopted, and under its oral provisions any person caught "in flagrante delicto" was shot down without ceremony, or subjected to any other summary punishment the detector might prefer.  I heard of several cases <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:of instantaneous execution, and saw at the Weber one lad shorn of the rims of his ears, and seared deeply in the cheek with a red-hot iron, for the theft of a small coffee-tin.  I never took part in any of those proceedings, nor did any of the company with which I was associated; but while disapproving of the modicum of punishment, and the manner of putting it in force, I must admit that some very stringent measures were necessary to keep in check the lawless and abandoned characters that flocked to the mines.</p><P>The weather was particularly fine all the time I remained at the Weber, the days bright and warm, the nights cloudless and without dew; but dysentery made its appearance in its most malignant form, soon prostrating the majority of the miners, carrying off many, and reducing all who were attacked to the lowest possible state of bodily feebleness.  I had a turn, and found cayenne pepper in large doses checked it effectually, while with others it produced no visible effect, owing, I should say, to the want of self-denial in diet.  Its origin was attributed to the use of fresh beef, though in coming over the plains I never remarked that fresh meat had any such tendencies, even when, as on the Platte, we lived on it for days together, using it largely at each of three meals.</p><P>The second week in August I took leave of my companions, for the purpose of travelling over the country, visiting the different mines, and comparing their various returns, as well as looking for a solution of the phenomenon of finding gold in more or less quantities at every elevation in the extensive region of its field.  I employed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:a half-caste Californian ( who make excellent vaquerous herders of stock) to help me to drive my proportion of mules and horses to a rancho on the Sacramento, between our camp and the city, and on my way down struck the Weber again eight miles lower below a can&tilde;on, where it formed a pond, or small lake, on the margin of which there was a solitary tent and a small party of three at work, amongst whom was a Cornish man, who welcomed me as a countryman, and invited me to stop a day or two; an invitation I gladly accepted, as the grass was good about the little lake.  In the course of the evening, Mr. Williams, the proprietor of another rancho on the Sacramento, arrived with a train of vaquerous on his way up to meet the emigration, and either buy their stock, or canvass for the grazing.  He took charge of mine there, and then giving me a receipt, and saving me the trouble of going down, as I wished to visit all the mines in that district before leaving.  I kept a mule for my own riding, and was thus enabled to get rid of my aid after a short employ of one day.  Mr. Williams's charge was two dollars a month per head for pasturage, and two dollars per month for insurance, which my Cornish friend advised me to pay by all means, as horse and mule stealing was becoming most prevalent, the temptationbeing very great, from the enormous price given below for animals by emigrants arriving by the Isthmus and Cape Horn route, who could not stir without them.</p><P>I spent that evening and next day with Mr. Jones's company, who was a practised hand at the business, and set his party to work more systematically than any other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:I had yet seen.  They took their dirt from a steep incline considerably above the winter level of the stream, in a stratum of hard packed dry bluish clay, almost as hard as rock, with a slight surface covering of earth, which yielded prodigiously, giving seventeen ounces for their day's work, nearly 100 dollars per hand, while Jones admitted to me that in some days they divided as much as one pound each.  He showed me, by washing panfuls gathered at different spots about, that the deposits were pretty general and alike, and pressed me to take up my quarters beside him, which I was not prepared to do at the time; but I wrote a note to my friends above by the returning Californian, recommending them to shift their quarters as soon and as quietly as they could--advice they followed promptly and with great profit.</p><P>Dysentery found its way into Mr. Jones's small company, one of his comrades being only recently recovered from a severe attack, Jones himself suffering from the effects of poison, which produced an angry and most annoying cutaneous affliction.  It is caught from a vine that grows amongst the brush and shrubs, and is most likely to lay hold when the pores are exuding perspiration.  Some people, from peculiar constitutional tendencies, are not susceptible of its infection, while others, again, are not only predisposed to catch its virus, but suffer dreadfully from the itching and inflammation, which spread with great rapidity over the body, thickening the skin, and raising it in large hives like a confluent pock, that become highly irritated by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:slightest contact.  Washing the skin well with the soap-root, and then bathing it in salt and water, helps to allay the irritation; but to eradicate its effects thoroughly, it is necessary to adopt a low scale of regimen, and take cooling medicines.</p><P>I took leave of my friend Jones and my countryman Williams, and went to another digging, called the Great Can&tilde;on, lying north-east from the Weber, where I got into a chain of lofty hills, thinly wooded with fir and white oak ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus longelanda</HI>
054.sgm: ), steeper on the sides than I ever before saw mere clay hills, the Can&tilde;on lying between two parallel ranges, at a depth of several hundred feet, shaped like a wedge, and so narrow below that there was barely standing-room:  the gold was all at the bottom, for the slopes were too quick to afford it a resting-place.  There was a large Spanish camp, or settlement, adjacent when the first American diggers arrived, who were said to have gathered vast quantities; but even then there was quite enough to repay hard work very liberally.  From the nature of the place, it did not admit of operations on a large scale at any one place.  Four-fifths of those I saw working there were doing so individually, with pans, using most generally large bowie-knives, with which they picked the gold from the crevices of the rocks in the bed of the stream, then almost dry, and scratching the gravelly soil from amongst the roots of the overhanging trees, which was generally rich in deposits.  It was one continuous string of men, single file, throughout its entire length (about four miles), all admitting they were doing well, so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:far as acquisition was concerned, but complaining of their health and bad air, as no refreshing breeze could ever visit them at the bottom, and the labour of going up and down morning and evening would be too great to permit of their erecting their camps above.  I stopped one night in the can&tilde;on, but could not catch any sleep, from the sultry, suffocating effects of the confined atmosphere.</p><P>The gold at the Great Can&tilde;on ran both larger and smaller than on the Weber, and was associated with large quantities of fine black sand, which the miners--most of whom were raw hands--blew off from the gold, in their anxiety to arrive at the final process.  But a keen old blade turned their impatience to account, by shamming decrepitude, and pretending that in his weakly state, being unequal to the toil of mining, he was compelled to resort to the poor and profitless branch of gathering the black sand, which he sold as a substitute for emery; in pursuance of which trade he went about in the evening with a large bag and a tin tray, requesting the "green'uns" to blow their black sand on to it, returning to his tent with his daily burden, when, by the agency of quicksilver, he secured double the average of the hardest working miner in the can&tilde;on.  I saw the old lad going circuit the evening I was there, as his game was not then discovered, though I remarked to Dr. S--k, with whom I stayed, that I was certain he carried away large quantities of gold-dust in the sand.</p><P>At each end of the can&tilde;on there was a calico shanty, called a grocery, the great staples of which were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:infamous brandy and corrosive alcohols, that would burn through the peritonoeum of a rhinocerous; while amongst the glasses were several packs of dirty cards, with which the rehearsals were nightly gone through in preparation for the grand affair at the Mill on the Saturday night, for distance was no object in those weekly reunions.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Leave for the South Fork--Tricks of the Coyotes--Join a Party going there--Their Charge for Victuals--Miners and their Operations at the American Fork--Average Returns--Kanaka Diving--Mining Monopoly Question--Jealousy towards Foreigners--American Tactics--Mining Morality--Adulteration of Provisions--Visit the Middle and North Forks--General Average at those Diggings--Flash Company--Their Proceedings--The Jealous Epidemic--American Trickery and Avarice--How the Affair terminated--Shade of National Character--Mr. Smith's narrow Escape--Dysentery--Leave for the Mormon Island Diggings--Description of the Country--Sleep in the Shanty of a Sydney Acquaintance--How he got to that Colony and out of it--His other Quests--The Valley of the Sacramento--Its Appearance--Mormon Island, and the Miners and Mining there--General Observations on the Golden Deposits--Mr. Brackenridge's Remarks touching the Theory of its Formation.</p><P>From the Great Can&tilde;on I went to the South Fork of the Rio de los Americanos, starting early in the morning, but taking a wrong trail, which led me into the hills, where neither mines nor groceries were to be met with, I not only lost my dinner, but had to go supperless to bed under a white oak, afraid to sleep lest the Coyotes should take liberties with me in my unconscious moments.  The mischievous brutes kept barking and howling about my couch all night, and succeeded in eating away the raw hide lariat by which I had my mule tethered, so that when I sought him at daylight I found he had rambled away; but following up the line-mark of the lariat, which was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:apparent in some places, I brought him to view after a good two hours' hunt, with my saddle, bridle, and blanket on my back, and soon after described three men driving pack-mules, to whom I went up to enquire my route, finding, to my great gratification, they were going to the same destination with provisions.  I gladly joined them, getting some biscuit and rancid bacon to break my long fast, with a glass of bitter brandy to wash it down, at the moderate cost of two dollars, which, it strikes me, eclipses the tariff of the Clarendon or Mivart's for that meal.</p><P>We reached the bar where the principal diggings are situated before night, after some ascents and descents very little inferior in rugged quickness to those of the pass of the Sierra Nevada.  Great numbers of miners were located there, and some large associated companies with considerable capital, employed in turning branches of the river, having several Indians and Kanakas at work.  I did not await the result of those ambitious operations, which would occupy a long time; but by the returns per pan, I should say they must have been paid well, for I think they would average twenty dollars per day, according to my own experience, during three days, in which time I took out with my pan fifty-four dollars, without working full time either.  The particles here were all of a good size, with occasional large specimens, and handsome quartz amalgamations.  I saw some Kanakas (who are perhaps the most expert divers in the world) go down and bring up fine chunks, which suggested the construction of a dredging machine; but it could not be got to work with effect, from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the inequalities of the bottom.  Diving-bells were also thought of, but I never saw any in use.</p><P>There was a question raised there amongst the Americans themselves, which led to much angry feeling, being an objection on the part of one class, that large companies should have the privilege of employing Indians or any other labour, taking advantage of their capital to engage a great number, staking off a space for each hand, whether an employer or not, and thus establishing a system of monopoly.  There were several "extensive jawing matches" on the subject, without leading to any arrangement during my sojourn; but I know that afterwards it was not permitted in any of the mines to stake off allotments for employed hands, and in some, even the hiring of them was altogether interdicted.</p><P>The jealousy towards foreigners was very strong indeed, the Americans calling out for the enforcement of that order for their expulsion which General Smith had issued, declaring he would not require any troops to carry it out, as they would act as volunteers on the occasion.  This feeling I could see was especially levelled at the English, while they condescended a most patronising regard for the Irish, evidently with a view of getting up a row betwixt them; but I was highly delighted to see them, for the nonce, agree in terms of friendly nationhood, notwithstanding all the angry political incentives that were used to set them by the ears.</p><P>In consequence of the insufferable heat of the weather, which told with double effect in the glens and gulches where the miners were employed, they made it a practice of turning out at the earliest dawn, working till ten o'clock, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:then lying by till two o'clock, and working again in the evening till eight o'clock.  They were a mixed class, made up of various nations, representing every vice that morality, religion, or law hold in abhorrence, reminding me strongly in their turbulent demeanour of a parcel of convicts during the absence of the overseer.  No doubt some good citizens were scattered amongst them, but they were like isolated grain-blades, smothered with noxious weeds.</p><P>Prices of provision rated much higher there than at the Weber, owing to the great difficulty of access, it being wholly unapproachable by waggons; and every article that at all admitted of adulteration, was mixed to the full with its particular alloy.</p><P>I went from thence to the Middle and North Forks, which were both crowded, especially the former, and miners' returns good.  At the Middle Fork the general average at that time was two ounces, the particles a good size, with numerous handsome specimens, that fetched far above their intrinsic value; there were several of the dandy class in those diggings, but, as might be expected, they were not particularly successful; there was also a very flash company of that school, who regulated their movements by sound of trumpet, with tents, uniform, and implements to match, whom it was quite a treat to see turn out in the morning, with military order and precision, managing everything with great system and success, save and except the matter of getting gold, which appeared to be repelled by their polished tools and formal appearance; for while ragged fellows with rusty picks and clumsy shovels carried home of evenings their nice little pannikins of clear glittering gold, the Pittsburghers could scarcely boast a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:particle to the hand; the fact was, they would not take the trouble of removing the soft surface soil, lying over the compact stratum that retained the gold, and their time was therefore employed merely in manufacturing muddy water.</p><P>The jealous epidemic was raging here to a great extent, and broke out fiercely on a German company under the following circumstances, which every candid man, be he Yankee or Israelite, must admit were inexcusable, unjust, and disgraceful.  An American company, who had been working a barren spot very unprofitably, put up a notice that their "valuable site was for sale," as they were going up to the Juba, and a lot of Germans, who had just come in, offered themselves as purchasers.  The price asked was exorbitant, as the proprietors said it returned so largely, and the following day was appointed for the Germans to come and see the fruits of an hour's working, the sellers going in the course of the night and secreting gold dust in the banks, so that it would come to light as the natural deposit during the course of the experiment, and getting their worthy countrymen to puff up the cheat in the mean time.  The following morning the poor Germans were so charmed with the apparent richness of the place, they gave 500 dollars and two valuable gold watches for the property; and oh! what indecent laughing there was at the "stupid dupes," and lofty commendations of the "almighty cuteness" of Jonathan when the transfer was completed.  I felt for the strangers, who were neither strong enough to enforce a restoration of their property, or rebuke the unbecoming insolence they were exposed to.  However, like cool, sensible fellows, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:stoically put up with what they saw they could neither remedy or resent, and went to work amid jeers and taunts.  It is unnecessary to say, that the proceeds of their first day's labour was not very encouraging; nevertheless, they persevered the following morning in a spirit of perfect contentment, and, before night, had their perseverance rewarded by some very promising indications.  The third day the indications led to veritable realities, enabling them to turn out the best day's work done in the diggings up to that period, and to proceed with an increasing daily average, which turned the laugh against Mr. Jonathan, who, with the most unprincipled impudence, sought to reclaim by force what he disposed of by a swindle.  The Germans, however, were not so easily scared as the Mexicans, though I believe they would have been forced to move off only for the timely arrival of another German emigrant company from the States.  This occurrence may serve to convey an idea of the spirit that actuated the Americans throughout the mines, and congenially blends with repudiation as a typical colouring of national character.</p><P>I also saw here, as the gentlemen of the long robe say, a nice point raised, on which there was much discussion and difference of opinion.  A man named Smith, who was about the first to work in the locality, was so very successful in a short time, that he had his pile made before the crowd came, and went down to the city to make arrangements about getting home, burying his gold-dust till he returned; but lo and behold, when he came back he found the uninscribed tombstone of his treasure within the stakes of a new company, who, in a few days, would have brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:to light the astounding revelation, that bountiful Nature not only showers gold on California, but leathern pruses too, to hold it.  The party in possession at first sternly resisted the attempts of Smith to exhume his dust, but the matter was referred to a full court of arbitration, where all Smith's proofs, marks, and tokens would have weighed as air had he not the good fortune (as they conceive it) of being a <HI REND="italics">native</HI>
054.sgm: Yankee.</p><P>Dysentery was very active in the North and Middle Forks, but not so fatal in its results as at the American Fork or the Weber.  I got another slight attack, which I attributed to having my feet and legs so much immersed in cold water; nevertheless, I took out while there 87 dollars over and above my expenses; so that my travelling, instead of being attended with expense, added to my purse as well as my stock of information.</p><P>I next turned my steps to the Mormon Island diggings, emerging altogether from the hills into a handsome rolling country, beautifully wooded, and decked with several lovely flowering shrubs, and manzanita rushes, with their handsome bunches of crimson berries, under which the quail were as thick as chickens in a poultry-yard, not caring to take wing as you came upon them, but running in amidst the thicket.  I now came upon a well-beaten road, leading from the mill to Sacramento city, which presented a great growing thoroughfare of miners and waggons, carrying goods from one town to the other.  There was no lack of houses of call either on the way, for every hollow tree was the nucleus of a grog-shop, while in the neighbourhood of every spring, or stream, a sort of tavern sprung up as from the soil, "like a rose-tree in full bearing," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:embowered in blooming flowers of printed calico, but deplorably remote from any analogy or affinity to nature in respect of their contents or charges.</p><P>I had the honour of spending the night with a boniface, who, though a native of England, hailed last from Sydney, where he would have appeared to have cultivated assiduously the acquaintance of all the penal authorities, whose names he was perfectly familiar with.  He said "he was cast away on the coast, but not liking the infernal place, he left it <HI REND="italics">without leave</HI>
054.sgm: "--a piece of inadvertent candour that smacked strongly of a "misunderstanding with the law," in which, of course, he was the aggrieved party.  There were no such things as beds, so after staking my mule, I coiled up in a blanket, but could not enjoy much rest, as there were two pair of waggoners playing cards upon the springy counter, who brought down their trumps with an energy that made the tumblers ring, snapping the sweet bonds of repose at each thump and attestation.</p><P>Next morning my road opened into the flat, spacious valley of Sacramento, spreading out into immense tracts, marked in places with lines of timber, a thick belt showing the course of the Rio de los Americanos.  It was a magnificent prospect--wanting only the grateful tint of verdure to render it transcendant.  But the tall grass was scorched to the earth, and the fine poppy, peculiar to the country, shrivelled into decrepitude, the crisp vegetation going into snuff beneath the tread, while the baked surface was split into dry chinks and fissures gaping for moisture; yet men of reputation can be found to extol this as an agricultural country, and paint it in alluring colours, as an unequalled field for husbandry, though the spot on which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:I then stood was about the general elevation of the lower valley of the Sacramento, full twenty feet above the river at its summer level--a demonstration of the impossibility of ever calling in irrigation to compensate for the lack of natural moisture.</p><P>I rode on through the valley, now and then taking shelter under the huge oaks that are scattered over the face of the country, and arrived at Mormon Island early in the evening, before the miners knocked-off working, as they term it.  They take their name from being first discovered and worked by a body of Mormons, who got out great quantities before the public came to find it out.  There was not room, I may say, for another man there at the time of my visit, its convenient position and easiness of approach leading all new comers to it.  The great majority of the miners had entered into a joint association for turning the river, between the island and the shore, and were then engaged in cutting the new channel, expecting to derive extraordinary profits from the undertaking, in which the contiguous tests fully justified them, causing great excitement pending its completion, which ripened into a regular share market; sanguine men purchasing the expectations of less impulsive co-operators, and original shareholders selling out to new comers, who stepped into theirshoes; so that before the job was finished, very few, I afterwards learned, of the originators were in the concern--which turned out only moderately well, averaging as much as miners were ordinarily in the habit of making, but infinitely below the standard by which purchasers of shares made their calculations.</p><P>I had now visited all the principal diggings of the lower <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:Sacramento (as I may call them), without being able to satisfy myself in what manner or by what agency the gold came to be so wonderfully diffused through the soil; for at every place where I tried, in the proper stratum, I invariably found it, in greater or smaller quantities, at considerable elevations, and on quick slopes remote from the operation of water-courses or inundations, looking as if it were a part and parcel of the original soil.  Had it been confined to ravines, gullies, and dried-up river-beds, or the bars or banks of rivers, it might be easily and feasibly accounted for, by the detritus being carried down and deposited by winter torrents--which, in the mountain regions, perform the expensive and mechanical part of mining, stamping, and breaking up the quartz, through the natural agency of rocks hurled from great heights, which either crush it to a powder, or chip off plentiful abrasions, that are more and more disintegrated as they are carried down, becoming finer in the particles the farther they are carried, from the original seam; but being diffused, as I have described it, I must leave to more patient and scientific travellers to account for its anomalous appearances, merely adding a short extract from the scientific observations of Mr. Brackenridge, touching the theory of its formation:</p><P>"Let us suppose a series of horizontal strata, one above another, but of unequal depth, incumbent on the original unstratified mass, which forms the nucleus of the globe.  According to geologists, this was the natural position; now, in consequence of some great volcanic agency, the lower mass is thrown up, and becomes the nucleus of a mountain, and that which was before the lowest, now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:appears on the top, while the various strata, which lay flat upon it, are tilted up the sides; these being cut through, there is exposed to view the various strata and their contents, in the same manner as if a shaft had been sunk through them in their horizontal position.  If there be any metallic seams to the right or left of these cuts, they will be seen like threads, and running lengthwise with the range of the mountains.  The metals contained in the now vacant spaces of those ravines, have been carried away and deposited below.  The masses then separated may be the work of thousands of years; but the quantity may be estimated by the number and width of the natural cuttings of the gold seams now disconnected.  It is certain the gold at the bottom cannot exceed the amount carried down from these original deposits.</p><P>Without assuming that the gold on the Sierra Nevada is greater than in the same range further south, its peculiar geographical and geological character may be a reason why gold may be found in California in greater abundance than any other part of the world.  It is found along the whole range, from Sonora to Chili, although in greater or less abundance; and there is no doubt that a variety of other metals will be met with, perhaps as valuable, when the passion for gold-washing will have somewhat abated.  It is remarkable that gold has been found almost invariably on the western, or Pacific side, of the great range, while silver, copper, and lead, are discovered on the eastern side, at a much higher elevation.  It is probable that, instead of gold, silver and copper exist on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, toward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the Great Basin; but by what process or operation of nature, came these seams, or veins of gold, or other metals, to be thus deposited?  Was it the agency of fire, or by water and alluvion? I think it probable that both may have been at work, being the two greatest solvents in nature, and at the same time the greatest crystalisers:  perhaps metallic ores may be the work of alluvion, and the production of pure metallic substances that of heat.  With respect to gold, I think the latter theory is more reasonable, as it is always found in a pure state, while the quartz (pure silex) in which it is contained may be alluvial, and one of the earliest deposits, from the decomposition of the original unstratified mass.  But where shall we seek for the original supply of the precious metal?  How is it formed, or whence has it been extracted by the agency of heat?</p><P>It is not enough to say that, like other metals, it is found diffused through all nature--for an appreciable quantity of gold has been extracted from violets.  In my opinion, it exists in the original unstratified mass, in imperceptible proportions, but proportions varying in different places, other metals being more or less abundant.  The greater proportion of our soils were formed, according to Sir Humphrey Davy, by decomposition of the original mass, and this accounts for the diffusion of gold or small particles, which may be taken up by plants, and enter into the composition of organised bodies.  If, then, the unstratified rock is the original seat of the metal, but in particles infinitely minute, it may have been separated by a very high degree of heat, by which it would be sublimated, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:volatalised, and thus carried upward by chemico-electric force, and by a process resembling distillation.  In this way it would penetrate the quartz rock, or be condensed in the spaces of the laminated strata, such as tale-schist or mica slate.  Such is the theory of Buckland and other modern geologists.  It may be mere speculation; but one thing is certain, as may be seen at once by those who have examined the larger masses of gold brought from California, that the finer particles of gold have been run together by a second operation of heat, sufficient only to fuse them and separate them from the quartz; the first was distillation, the second smelting, or rather simple fusion.  It is possible that these great operations of nature have been repeated at different intervals, and different seams of quartz and gold may be found on ascending the ravines, the lower more completely scattered (but in finer particles) through, and the higher having undergone afterwards simple fusion."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
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054.sgm:Wherever one of those stood contiguous to the road, it was certain to be the axis of a grog-shop; and numerous though they were, they all appeared to be well patronised, nor did you ever hear a grumble about their exactions, though they demanded three dollars for a bottle of stout, and one dollar for four little enrolments of trash, that had no more the flavour of tobacco than they had of honey.  I saw three Californian Indians come into one of those places while I was resting there, to buy a bottle of spirits, of which they are passionately fond; when the host better than half filled a bottle with alcohol, making up the residue with water, for which he charged them three dollars; and afterwards, taking the scale to weigh their dust, put in the quarter-ounce weight, which I know was above the standard, and kept that full quantity in payment, thus robbing those ignorant creatures in the three branches of that simple transaction; first, giving them half water; secondly, putting in a four-dollar weight to get three dollars; and, thirdly, having the said weight twenty-five per cent. above par; in addition to which, he charged a most unconscionable price for an abominable compound.</p><P>As soon as they went out, he turned to me, and said, "I reckon you smoked how I sarved them at B--out."  To which I nodded.  "You know," he continued, "no Christian man is bound to give full value to those infernal red-skins; they are onsoffisticated vagabones, and have no more bissnis with money than a mule or a wolf; they've no religion, an' tharfore no consciences, so I deals with them accordin."--"But," I replied, not caring to get into an ethical controversy with so undiluted a reprobate, "I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:believe you missionaries have already begun to enlighten them, and are making preparations on a large scale to convert and bring them into the Christian fold."--"No doubt they have," he said; "but it is time enough for men in trade to oncourage them when they laarn the truths of the gospel."</p><P>A new batch of customers interrupted the dialogue, so I left this impressive moralist, who I am satisfied deals with all alike when he finds he can try on his cheating with impunity.  A good many batches of cattle and mules now began to dot the plain; some that had crossed the land route, and just arrived, presenting a wretched contrast to those sleek-sided beasts that were bred in the country.  Looking down the steep river-bank as I sauntered along, I could distinctly see great numbers of enormous salmon and trout in the clear water below, which, as I have already remarked, abound in the Sacramento, San Joaquim, and all their tributaries, in all of which there are countless favourable places for erecting weirs, where any amount of fish might be taken, which always commands an exorbitant price in the Sacramento and Francisco markets; but no one seems to give the matter any attention, though most other projects, which present a profitable aspect, are jumped into with avidity.  I talked over the subject with some gentlemen of intelligence and capital in both cities, but I could not induce them to entertain it, though they would unhesitatingly give eight or ten dollars for a good fish, their general objection being the great rises of the river, though, as I told them, weirs might be constructed that could be removed on the approach of floods.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>About four o'clock I saw a flag waving on the end of a tall pole, a few miles ahead, in the line of the river, where the valley opened out in a south-easterly direction further than the eye could follow its bounds.  This I was told was Sutter's Fort, the place where Captain Sutter first established himself when he reached that country.  As I was riding slowly on, I was overtaken by a pack-mule train, just coming in from the States, under the guidance of Colonel Cranshaw.  Both men and animals appeared terribly cut up, complaining of many accidents and great hardships, and the loss of several animals by exhaustion and Indian treachery.  They drew a frightful picture of the sufferings of the emigrants on Humboldt River and the desert, Colonel Cranshaw giving it as his opinion that they would all perish unless early succour were sent to them.  I recommended him to represent it to the authorities as soon as he got to the city, which he did; and I believe it was the means of bringing about the organisation for their rescue which was subsequently so effectively got up.  He also informed me of the spread of cholera in the States, and mentioned several fatal cases as having occurred amongst the emigrants along the Platte.</p><P>We pulled up at Sutter's Fort, which is about two miles from the embarcadero on the Rio de los Americanos.  It is an oblong pile, erected on a rising ground, with a few of the characteristics of a fortress about it, built of adobes, the external wall being from eighteen to twenty feet in height, shedded down all round inside, with an adobe house two story high in the centre.  This was originally the captain's residence, and all the sheds, his stores, stables, &amp;c.  But now the house is an hotel, and the sheds are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:fitted up into hospitals, billiard-rooms, and taps.  There are two large gates, at each of which there were a pair of Indians couchant; but the whole is in a state of decline, fast crumbling into original dust, in which it would not surprise me if there was a small per centage of the golden quality.  I looked about the fort for Captain Sutter's immense fields of wheat and corn, which should then be ready for the sickle, but not a head of either was to be seen, the captain having declined agricultural pursuits about the time they would have recompensed him best, if the pursuit was a thriving one; but I suppose the captain made the experiment, and, finding the climate unsuitable for the maturation of grain, discontinued it, for he is not the man to abandon a project if he thinks it can be made to answer expectations by perseverance and idustry.  He no longer resides at the fort, his headquarters being at Suttersville, on the banks of the Sacramento, about three miles below the city, where he is endeavouring to found a new town, having sold his interest in the site of Sacramento before it grew into its present importance--a piece of over-anxiety which threw a countless fortune into the hands of the purchasers, and which he will not be able to repair in his new project, for it does not appear to take in the slightest.</p><P>Sacramento city, as the embarcadero is called, was clearly visible from the fort, reposing on the plain in its white summer costume; the plains on both sides down stocked with cattle, mules, and horses, from which the ocean emigrants purchased their supplies, there being no animal market in San Francisco.  For a mile out from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:city.  There was a suburb of snow-white tents of different shapes and sizes, erected amongst the fine open trees that skirted it, presenting a most pretty and unique appearance; and on entering the town I found nine-tenths of the houses made of the same material, nailed on very light frames indeed; the streets laid out with great regularity, and of a fine width, many of the majestic trees being permitted to remain, casting their delicious shade about, and adding wonderfully to the novel and pleasing effect.  The shops and stores are very spacious, and excellently assorted, quantities of even light portable goods being piled out under the verandahs, where they remain night and day--strange as it may appear in this mixed community, with perfect security, such was the apprehension of summary punishment that followed detected theft.</p><P>Town lots were fetching wonderful prices at that period; sites with frontages twenty-five feet by twenty-five feet bringing from 3000 dollars to 5000 dollars, with a steady upward tendency.  There were no hotels; but in lieu of them there were boarding-houses, where your bare meals cost you twenty-five dollars per week, attached to each of which there was a large apartment, littered over with hay, where you paid one dollar for the privilege of lying on the ground in your own blanket.  If you remained over one night you rolled your blanket up on the spot you lay and left it there; but as all did not come to bed at the same time, or in the same trim, you were subject to have your snoring interrupted, by the iron-heel of a huge boot on your nose, or the knee of a staggering emigrant in search of his nest on the pit of your stomach; nor was it unusual in the morning to find a congealed tobacco spittle on your cheek, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:or like a big soot-drop on your blanket.  There was one gent that retired generally about the same hour I did, who told me as, "a curiosity," that on last night we had the honour of having as bedfellows two real judges, five ex-governors, three lawyers, as many doctors, streaked with blacksmiths, tinkers, and tailors, "that made a most almighty beautiful democratic amalgam, that's a fact."  Our board was as good as it could be without fish, milk, butter, or vegetables; but the drink was dire stuff.</p><P>There was an active business doing throughout in every shop with emigrants fitting out for the mines; and so anxious were shopkeepers to secure a trade at their large scale of profits, they never exhibited any hesitation about giving credit to large amounts to parties they were wholly unacquainted with, without any introduction whatever.  I saw several instances of this, and heard emigrants expressing their astonishment at the wonderful liberality of the traders, who, however, took care in all the cases to palm off a second-rate article, or one that had suffered damage in its long transit, knowing that customers accommodated with long credits could not be over scrutinous in their examinations; while their knowledge of the richness of the mines afforded them a guarantee that their customers would have the means of easy repayment within their reach.</p><P>But the establishments that commanded the largest and steadiest trade, and where the circulating medium beat with the strongest pulsation, were the pandemoniums, which were crowded morning, noon, and night, and certainly with the most mixed and motley congregations I ever before witnessed--whites, half-castes, copper, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:mahogany, and blacks--delegates from every nation that takes any part or interest in the commerce or intercourse of the world, their features more varied than their features more varied than their colours, and their costumes representing the fashions of their several countries.  The jargon of voices, mutters, and exclamations of those votaries of fortune, made a most strange medley of sounds, and you could pretty well discover the various national characteristics of the players in the progress of the game; the cool indifference of the Russian or the Turk, the latter placidly stroking his beard under the frowns of the fickle goddess; while the Frenchman at his elbow was sibilating his sacre&grave;s, and the Yankee opposite cursing and thumping the table with boisterous vehemence; Paddy down at the end consoling himself with the philosophic reflection, "that the worse luck now the better again"--"Come my hearties, send round the ball--a faint heart never won a fair lady--hurroo;" the cloaked Spaniard and the phlegmatic German laying down their stakes mechanically from the outside; the Scotch chiel poking in his head from the same region, just to see how the chances ran "afore he risked his siller;" while Italians smoked and hummed, and Chinese looked as innocent as if tricks were no part of their training.  All the new-comers staked coin, the miners dust, some of them putting down large purses at a single venture, exclaiming, "Now for it--home or the diggins?"  "The diggins by Heaven!" as the president raked the bag into the infernal coffers; and up got the miner to go dig another fortune, and again to have it charmed from his grasp.</p><P>There was a large fleet of fine shipping in the river lying afloat, close enough to the banks to discharge by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:gangway, the river being very deep, and tidal for fifty miles above the city.  Several splendid ships were dismantled and converted into stores, boarding-houses, and hospitals, their crews having all deserted, and there being no possibility of getting them down to the coast.  I saw A1 ships there, 400 tons burden, offered for 8000 dollars without getting a customer; and fifteen ton boats, suited to river trade, selling readily as high as 2500 dollars.  Wages of all sorts were very high at that time, a common labourer getting twelve dollars and his keep, and any sort of tradesman from one ounce to twenty dollars.  The cost of tightening the tyres of a waggon was thirty-two dollars, and that of shoeing a horse twelve dollars; however, as the emigration came in, those unparalleled charges were gradually fined down, but never to what I would call a reasonable level.</p><P>There was one peculiarity about the city, then containing about 10,000 souls, that could not fail striking a stranger immediately, which was the total absence of women and children.  Native Californians were constantly coming to and fro, galloping, as is always their custom, at full speed, even through the most crowded thoroughfares; but they manage their horses with admirable skill, and can rein them up in an instant, from the tremendous severity of their bits.  Numbers, too, of the native Indians were constantly strolling about, too idle to hire themselves out, even at the high rates offered, engaged in groups, gambling, not with cards, but a kind of thimble-rig, in which one man takes a small ball, and after shuffling his hands, so as to puzzle the sight, then holds them out for the parties to guess in which the ball is, each taking their turns <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:at hiding it.  I was greatly amused standing over them as they were squatted under a large tree at the end of one of the main streets, swaying their bodies about and grunting during the progress of the game.</p><P>Sickness prevailed in the city in the shape of dysentery and diarrhoea, and great apprehensions were entertained that the incoming emigrants would carry the cholera with them.  I fear the city, from its position, will never be a peculiarly healthy one, for it stands in a hollow, several feet below the level of the river-bank, which renders it an absolute impossibility to drain it properly, while the ground at the back, towards the fort, and again on the south, towards Suttersville, rises so considerably, that unless the authorities can establish a Mediterranean sink to swallow the impurities, they must let them dry up and fester in their several pools that stand under the houses, which are raised on piles.</p><P>After inspecting this new gossamer city, I started with a few new acquaintances in a whale-boat down the Sacramento, leaving at the turn of the tide, and dropping down to Suttersville, where there were a few ships lying; and although several streets were staked out, very few houses were erected, and no appearance of any trade or bustle, except that resulting from a small garrison of U.S. troops stationed there, greatly thinned, as I heard, by desertion, while at the back of the town stood the residence of Captain Sutter, on whom I called, but he was at his rancho on Feather River; a circumstance I much regretted, as I expected to have derived a good deal of information from him concerning the country, and obtain his candid opinion as to its agricultural capabilities.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>Four miles further down, on the opposite side of the river, there is a German settler named Schwartz, who has cleared a lot of land, on which he raises water and musk melons and pumpkins, and now derives a very good income from their sale.  He has a squad of half-civilised Indians about him, whom he keeps mostly employed in draughting for salmon, which they catch in great quantities and of immense size, some of them, that I saw split and suspended to dry in a shed behind his house, weighing as much as thirty pounds, only used for the diet of his Indian servitors, who relish them exceedingly.  I told him it would pay him better than his vegetable gardening to send the fish fresh to the Sacramento market; an experiment he said he would try.  He is a long time in the country, and said to be enormously rich, but lives in a rude and comfortless state, without any idea of hospitality.  Below him, again, a few miles on the opposite bank, is what is called the Russian embarcadero, a sloping indentation on the shore, where the Russians at one time formed a small settlement, but at present there is no vestige of the place, nor does the adjoining country furnish any evidence that they were improving settlers, for beyond a small clearance for the supply of firewood, I could not see any trace of industry.</p><P>We pulled eight or nine miles further down, against a strong flood tide, passing two schooners and several smaller craft on their way up, choke full of passengers; and, as the shades of evening set in, made fast our boat to a tree stem, cooking our supper, and fixing our couches on the bank; often hearing throughout the night the jocund song of embryo gold-diggers, gladly gliding over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the waters to the golden goal.  Next morning we got under weigh early, stealing down by the lofty banks under the shade of the impending trees, getting an occasional slant of favourable wind at some of the bends of this truly noble river, which is almost of a uniform depth, without snag or sawyer, or any other obstruction to interfere with or endanger navigation--a peculiarity the more striking, from the great height and impetuosity of its winter floods, and the proximity of timber to the banks.  There are scarcely any water-fowl on its lower waters, and rarely, if ever, and open space in the impenetrable forest that skirts its shores.  I landed in several places where I thought I discovered breaks; but they were of no extent, caused by lagoons too swampy for the growth of timber.  We passed two small Indian encampments during the day, but they had nothing to trade, and appeared to be living in a state of great squalor, many of them covered with blotches and loathsome ulcers, the fruits of a certain disease, which, I learn, is fast diminishing their already limited numbers.</p><P>However, if silence and solitude reigned along the shores, the songs of the sailors and boatmen, and the chants of cheery emigrants enlivened the waters as they swept along, in quick succession, towards the seat of their fortunes, and many a time were we hailed for information by those sanguine voyageurs, to know how matters went on in the mines, as they conceived it "passing strange," to see men turning their backs upon Plutus as we were.  We came on the second night to the mouth of the Slough, a narrow gut that runs in a straight course for eight miles, joining the river again at the end of that distance, the river <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:taking a sweep of forty miles to arrive at the same point.  It is deep enough for any vessel, and all come through it to effect the saving.  According to the computation of an American settler there, we were ninety miles from Sacramento.  In the course of the evening we were joined by four other boats on their way up, and made "right merrie" on the strength of our pleasing intelligence; for, though I did not disguise the drawbacks, such as sickness and privations, they never overcast the bright anticipations which the certain abundance of gold engendered.  There were myriads of musquitoes filling the air in the neighbourhood, the first I saw in the waters of the Sacramento, and of a very poisonous genus, inflammation setting in immediately after the sting.  They resisted all our efforts to banish them, and continued dreadfully annoying, coming in clouds from the tule marshes that lay between the Slough and the river.  Like our party coming up the Platte, the Americans betook themselves to the water, performing all sorts of capers, and, in their exuberant glee, indulging in every manner of joke, one fellow, after a heavy plunge, shouting out, "Bottom, bottom;" another hallooing in reply, "Take care you don't knock it out, and let through all the gold," and such like badinage; but in the height of the merriment a sharp cry of distress arose, and before assistance could be rendered, a young man, named Flintner, had passed from the hopes and anxieties of this world to an endless eternity.</p><P>After passing the Slough next morning, the river commenced expanding, forming bars in places, the timber getting thinner, and the banks lower and more flat, until we passed the delta, through which the waters of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:Sacramento and the San Joaquim disembogue into Suisoon Bay.  On getting into the bay we encountered a heavy sea, driven up by a north-westerly breeze, that was quite enough for an open boat to contend with, and continued to freshen so much that we were forced to bear off for a small harbour on its eastern shore, where a new city has been started, under the proud name of New York; but it is a perfect mystery to me on what its founders build their expectations of future eminence, for it stands on a swamp, with a shoal channel to approach it, and a bald, barren country behind it.  As the afternoon advanced the breeze lulled, and we entered Carquine's Strait under a resplendent sky, gemmed over with celestial jewels, that shed a glittering light on the high bold cliffs of its southern shore, the infant city of Benicia, on the hanging slope opposite, with its ships in front, and military cantonments spread out on the hill behind, presenting a novel but beautiful spectacle.</p><P>Benicia stands on the northern shore of the strait which connects the Suisoon and the San Pablo Bays; the strait is a mile wide, and several fathoms deep.  The shore along the town is bold and deep, admitting vessels of the largest burden to come close alongside.  The head-quarters of the American troops in California are fixed here, which, I imagine, led to the idea of starting the city, in expectation that extensive government works would follow.  As yet, however, there is no symptom of any move of that sort, and town lots, which were for a while at a high premium, now drag out a precarious existence at par.  There are a good few houses and stores, but no stir of trade about it.  Like New York, the country behind it is of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:mediocre character, the hills approaching it closely, and having no connexion with any of the mines.  I therefore cannot predict any great things for this new place, which has, however, many natural advantages.</p><P>When leaving Sacramento I intended going on to Francisco, then moving south, and wintering in the district of the Valley of San Jose&acute;; but I here accidentally met with two of my companions across the continent, with two other friends of theirs, on their way up to Sacramento, to start for Trinity River, of which they recounted me marvellous tales, derived from indubitable authority, pressing me to join them, which I finally consented to, having, as I calculated, nearly three months to visit the northern diggings before the rainy season would set in; so I arranged to meet them at Sacramento in three days, giving them authority to include my requisites in their outfit, as I determined to take this opportunity of visiting Sonoma, which was represented in the most glowing colours as a valley of great beauty and extraordinary fertility, where grain had been raised, and could be grown to meet the requirements of the entire country, being anxious to see a place so particularly specified as possessing agricultural qualifications, which I doubted existed for any extent in any part of the whole valley of the Sacramento.  the valley and the town, which was one of the sites of the old Missions, are situated on the northern shores of the bay, about eighteen miles inland, on a creek of its own name, which is navigable for twelve or fourteen miles for vessels of light draft in seasons of high water, but at this season (10th September) the embarcadero cannot be approached, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:even by a canoe, except at the top of high water.  The shores of the bay, for some miles inland, are marshy and fit for nothing unless it be the cultivation of rice; however, as I proceeded the land improved wonderfully in quality, but the fine grass was brown and crisped for want of moisture; several herds of tame cattle and horses were scattered over it, in magnificent condition, and some good log-houses of new settlers.  The valley is bounded at the back by low rounded hills, with scarcely any timber, but green all over with wild oats, on which the cattle feed when other herbage is scant, and from those hills there issue several streams, that might be made subservient to the purposes of irrigation in the earlier season, but very few of them now contained any water.</p><P>The town, like all the old Missions, is built round a plaza, but there is now scarce a vestige of the old establishments; in their stead, good modern houses and stores have been erected, as it is a favourite place for settlement by those not carried away by the mania of gold-digging, and will rise into importance, if the proprietor, General Don Mariano Gaudalope Vallejo, succeeds (as it is thought he will) in having the seat of government transferred there, when it would become the residence of the governor,and the place where the senate and assembly would congregate.  The general, who is an enormously rich man, would be greatly benefited by such an arrangement, for almost all the property around belongs to him.  The position and natural beauty of the place will tell in its favour, over and above which I understand the general has offered to advance a sum sufficient to cover the erection of all the offices and public buildings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:required by the government.  I waited on the general, who is a native of the country, and was received with the greatest courtesy and hospitality.  He is a fine, handsome man, in the prime of life, of superior attainments and great natural talent, the only native Californian in the senate.  His lady is also possessed of unusual personal attractions, and of that easy dignity and warmth of manner so peculiarly characteristic of Spanish ladies.  His house is a fine one, superbly furnished, and wanting in nothing that comfort or luxury requires.</p><P>I hired a horse, and rode over the whole of the adjacent country known as the Valley of Sonoma, but could only meet a few places, of inconsiderable extent, where crops could be raised, as only in those localities could irrigation be kept up to the proper period of maturation.  I finished my survey time enough to get down to a nice schooner lying at the mouth of the creek, in which I engaged my passage to Sacramento, but, being late, was obliged to put up with deck accommodation, all the berths below being occupied; a disappointment I did not much regret in such a climate, on one of its finest nights, after such an apprenticeship as I served to unsheltered sleeping in crossing the plains.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Set sail and get Aground--How we bumped, thumped, and staggered--Scene in the Cabin--Sleeping in the Foresail--Providential Deliverance--Joking next Morning--Dead Calm and hot Sun--Cast Anchor--Amusements on Board--The Californian Prayer-book--Short Commons--Wild Cattle--Shoot a Steer--Their fine Shapes--How they originated and increased--Substiute for the Buffalo--Get the Beef on Board--Sharp Exerise and cold Evening Air superinduce Illness--Symptoms--Californian Ague--The Sufferings it Entails--How I dealt with it, and Conquered it--Causes of its Virulence in the Mines--Wonderful Progress of Sacramento--Attempt to Defeat the Charter by the Gambler--Their Motives--First Hotel in Sacramento--Its Style of Architecture--Internal Construction--The Opening Banquet--Cost and Rent of the Concern.</p><P>We weighed anchor by moonlight with a fine breeze; but just as we hove in stays on our first tack, we had reached on to a bank, getting fast aground, and, as the tide rose, kept thumping and drifting for some hours.  Although the sea did not run very high, our situation was attended with danger, as our bark was one of those frail craft got up hurriedly to meet the demand for river navigation, and was neither timbered, fastened, or found substantially, without even a kedge on board to bouse her off.  However, as the wind sets steadily from the same point from February till October, we knew she would forge in the same direction all night, and probably stagger into deep water ere morning's tide.  The air was very sharp, but sleep or comfort was not to be obtained, for she would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:be awhile on her larboard beam-end, bumping and thumping, then suddenly rising on even keel in deeper water, as suddenly fall down on her starboard beam, huddling passengers, furniture, and all odds and ends in the cabin into a kaleidoscopic heap, inflicting several serious wounds, cuts, and bruises.  The deck was altogether unsafe, for the bulwarks were so low they afforded no protection from a sharp list; but as her sails were lowered and not furled, I bethought me that probably the bag of the foresail might afford a tolerable hammock.  So crawling forward during an interregnum, I made fast the boom of it securely, and, dropping myself down, was soon swayed into a profound sleep, which was broken in upon in the middle of the night by the noise of the crew and the shouting of the captain to hoist the sails.  I could not instantly bring to mind my situation, and made no effort to arise till I found the canvas slipping sensibly in folds from under me, and the boom swinging violently, when I became conscious of my situation and danger, roaring with might and main without making myself heard.  I then endeavoured to get upright, but every lift of the sail upset me, and as it was fast getting chock up, I felt the peril of my position:  grasping at the reef-points, two of which I got hold of, and being in the second row, they just enabled me to reach my toes to the boom; however, as I was to leeward, the bagging of the sail to a stiff breeze made my hold very insecure and fearfully dangerous, being wholly unperceived in the dark, and the vessel going free, full eight knots.  I tried again to attract attention, but my efforts were drowned by the rushing of the waters and the whistling of the wind through the cordage; my hold and footing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:now got more difficult and uncertain, rendering me dreadfully nervous and and exhausted.  Just as I was about abandoning all hopes, the man at the helm, suffering her to take a yaw to leeward, the sail jibed, and, as it passed over the deck, I dropped down almost in a state of insensibility.  It was a miraculous and providential deliverance, and led to the registration of a vow on the subject of hammocks, which I would recommend all travellers to imitate.  It seems our bark got afloat in deep water earlier than we expected, and there being no more shoals or banks in our course, and tolerable starlight, the captain ordered the men to make sail, my lucky star being in the ascendant, else there would have been an abrupt conclusion to my Californian rambles and adventures.</p><P>As the morning sun arose, warm and unclouded, my vapours, excitement, and displeasure evaporated, leaving me, however, as the sailors term it, "an appetite like a handsaw," and making me merge every cranky feeling into a keen desire for breakfast, which was prolonged, to the annoyance of the second-table candidates, by the recital of the hammock adventure, as the crowded state of the vessel and her limited accommodation rendered such an arrangement inevitable.  There were divers and sundry mishaps of a more unpretending character, evidenced by patches and discolourations of different tints and shades; but the only querulous sufferer was an old alchemist, on his way to the mines, to cheat Nature of the great secret, who lost one pane out of his spectacles, and was apprehensive the glaziers in Sacramento were unprovided with any but what the trade term a C.C. article.  Various were the sly jokes and bad puns manufactured on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the occasion, till a rough countryman of my own suggested a piece of "Patt's hat," which fairly roused Caderallader from a simmer to a boil over.</p><P>As the day advanced the wind declined, the sun's heat increasing in intensity till noon, when it lulled into a dead calm, which, together with an ebb tide, obliged us to cast anchor nearly abreast of the mouths of the Sacramento and San Joaquim Rivers.  Every one now adopted his favourite method of killing time, which was rather a difficult labour with the limited armoury on board, as library there was none, neither were there fish-lines, nor nets, nor yet musical instruments, nor even a shady retreat from the solar blaze; for dread notes of preparation were audibly issuing from the little cabin, where the torpid musquitoes, who were paralysed by the chills of San Francisco, began buckling on their armour, reinforced by fresh drafts from the neighbouring delta.  Cigars were employed by some, others were engaged at rifle-practice at empty bottles thrown into the water, but by far the greater number were engaged in the study of the "Californian prayerbook"--as a pack of cards are profanely designated--a weapon which a native or an acclimatised settler rarely ever stirs abroad without, such is their all-absorbing passion for the game; and most careful, too, are they of their missal, which they carry in a nicely fitting case, something like those sandwich-boxes which hard-worked lawyers in the Westminster courts carry about to swell their bags.</p><P>As I was surveying the various groups of Monte professors, Porker pushers, and Uker players, I overheard the steward telling the captain, "that not calculating on such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:a crowd of passengers, he feared all his fresh provision would run out."  While they were discussing how the difficulty was to be met, I called the captain's attention to a moving mass, as it appeared to me, on the side of one of the remote hills, which proved, on a survey through the glass, to be a large herd of cattle that I imagined belonged to a neighbouring rancho, and therefore would not have minded them further, only that the captain ordered a boat to be lowered, and commenced canvassing for recruits to go in pursuit of "the wild steers yonder;" but, with the exception of myself and another, there were no volunteers to reinforce the regular crew of the vessel; so we pushed off, seven in number, dividing ourselves, when we reached the shore, into three parties, a centre and two wings, creeping as covertly as the naked pasture would permit, until the mate and his companion, who came first within range, fired, when the herd broke in our direction, and by the time they approached close enough for our guns to play, we could discern one badly crippled, unable to keep up with the rest, stopping frequently, looking back wildly, and lowing lowly in a piteous tone, during one of which pauses my comrade shot him again, and fatally, for life was quite extinct ere we came up--a distance of not more than one hundred and fifty yards.</p><P>He was in prime order, and from his marks and nice points, would not disgrace the paddocks of the best Leicestershire feeder.  While cutting him up, I inquired if those herds were numerous, or if there was no ownership claimed by any parties.  But it seems unless a beast in that country is duly branded, he is public property, and that the number of those independent herds in the valleys <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:of the Sacramento and San Joaquim are immense, originating in animals that wander out of company on those vast plains, which, after once breeding in the wilderness, are never disposed again to rejoin the more domesticated droves.  Settlers, too, who, ere the discovery of the gold mines, were attracted to Oregon as a country more suited for agricultural purposes, made convenient selections from their large herds, driving them over the mountains, and leaving the culls to "increase and multiply," in a state of perfect nature; from which parent stock the country is supplied with a substitute for the buffalo, which, as I have before observed, is not found westward of the Rocky Mountains; and most opportunely do they often minister to an empty stomach, or a system rife with scurvy, from the constant use of salt provisions unaccompanied with vegetables.</p><P>By the time we got on board with all the prime pieces, a fresh breeze began to spring up with the flood tide, but as evening came on, the air became uncomfortably chill, which was more sensibly felt by me, from the state of the blood, after the sharp exercise of the day, having had a long distance each, to pack a heavy load of beef.  The cabin being crammed to suffocation, and dark with tobacco smoke, I rolled myself up in my blanket on the deck, at a respectful distance from the foresil; but the extreme cold banishing the luxury of sleep, I shifted my position close to the cook's quarters; however, the caloric in that region was insufficient to modify my shivers.  I tried the virtues of brandy-and-water, but they were of no avail, and by the time every resource was exhausted, and day breaking, I felt sickish and out of sorts--the breakfast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:preparations hissed unheeded round my ears, and were wafted without effect under my nostrils--my aching joints causing me to apprehend a fever, as head-ache began stealthily to take its place, with which the stomach soon avowed a kindred sympathy, until a complete over-allishness forced me to resume my blanket.  The dinner, with its wild beef attractions, had none for me; and as the day again declined into shade and cold, I felt thrills along my spine, followed by an uncontrollable shivering quite foreign to me, but recognised by the initiated as the premonitory symptoms of ague--which, sure enough, as another night came round, had gathered sufficient strength to shake me without mercy.</p><P>Nor were the cold fits the worst; the dry roasting fever that succeeded had incomparably more horrors for me; and for four days that we continued to creep up this fine river, on which the high banks and lofty timber permitted only the topsails to draw with effect, did my ailment increase in virulence, my strength becoming so thoroughly protrated, that I had to be carried on shore in a hammock, to where my friend's tent was erected on the outskirts of the city.  I tried a whole catalogue of ague recipes, but my daily visitant, which came as punctually as if its movements were regulated by a chronometer, set them all at defiance, until I was unable to sit erect to take a drink, my shoulders, hips, knees, and ankles getting stripped and ulcerated from the terrible shaking and the hardness of my couch.  My case was now considered hopeless, and, believing my recovery impossible, I made an effort, but an ineffectual one, to scrawl a line to my absent friends, which was performed by a friend, whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:kindness and tender attention shall never be forgotten by me.</p><P>In addition to my bodily weakness, I also conceived that my mind was forsaking me, which caused an agony of fear and contrition at the thought of going before my Eternal Judge without any religious consolation.  While in this state, I overpersuaded my friend, as alast resource, to procure me some quinine, sufficient for three doses of double the ordinary quantity, the first of which he reluctantly administered in a little brandy, and, to his great dismay, saw it followed by the most aggravated and prolonged shake I ever had; but as it subsided, instead of its usual concomitant, a burning fever, I found a genial glow begin to creep over me, accompanied by a gentle perspiration, and a soothed state of mind and body, that caused the first visitation of refreshing sleep I had for several days.  I awoke, mightily refreshed, and, feeling that my enemy was staggered, insisted on another dose to follow up the blow, and again a delicious slumber, unbroken by dreams, shed its sanative influence upon me, when waking consciousness returned, I felt stout enough to demand imperatively the remaining dose, and as I swallowed it, I felt as assured of my victory as if I had my knee on the chest of a footpad, with a pistol at his brain.<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1"><P>I subsequently got a recipe from a gentleman whom I met, the efficacy of which I once tested in a renewed attack, and in numerous other cases where I administered it, which I subjoin for the benefit of future travellers:--</p><P>Twenty-five grains of blue pill, twenty-five grains of quinine, and twelve grains of oil of black pepper, made into twelve pills; one to be taken every hour, for six hours, on the morning of the shake; one, every hour, for four hours, the morning following; the remaining two, at the same interval, on the third morning.</p></NOTE>
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054.sgm:<P>The Californian ague is said to be the very worst type of that fearful malady; and its victims being, for the most part, unprovided with the means and appliances to mitigate its attacks, suffer proportionately, living in cold tents, sleeping on the damp earth, working very generally knee-deep in water, rarely provided with changes of clothing, and using unwholesome diet, they become an easy prey to its ravages.</p><P>When able to toddle about town, I was amazed at the extent of improvement in the limited period of my absence--to be sure, its edifices were of simple construction, and capable of being erected with great facility; nevertheless, when I surveyed one fine new street of goodly proportions, with well-stored shops and a busy population, which had sprung into being and bustle in so brief a space, I could not repress my wonder and amazement; others also ambitiously planned were fast approximating to occupation, the most imposing piece of architecture in each being, as a matter of course, a capacious hell, or gaudy gambling rendezvous, one of which was emblazoned in letters of immense magnitude, with the quaintly characteristic name of the "The City Diggings."</p><P>There was an unusual ballot just then proceeding, to take the sense of the community as to the propriety of having a charter for the city, which was near being defeated, owing to wondrous activity and profuse expenditure in treating and bribing of the gambling community, who feared, that if the city became endowed with a regular corporation, energetic steps would be taken to put down their nuisances.  Two ounces of gold was the ordinary rate of a vote, and all those nefarious receptacle were turned into open <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:cellars for the occasion, where every reckless opponent to law, order, or good society, could walk in and help himself as he listed.  However, after a close contest, the vampires and their myrmidons were defeated; and the city is now governed by municipal laws and regulations, emanating from a corporation who are interested in the real and permanent prosperity of the place, which I trust has, ere this, abolished or abated those crying abominations.</p><P>I was awakened the morning after the election by the booming of cannon at regular intervals; and supposing it to be either in celebration of the auspicious termination of that event, or announcing the arrival of a frigate that was expected, I took a stroll towards the shipping, from whence the reports came, my strength being sufficiently restored to enable me to exercise moderately; but I discovered those <HI REND="italics">feu-de-joie</HI>
054.sgm: were in honour of the opening of the first attempt at a regular hotel, which was just noticeable above the surface when I went down the Sacramento.  It is called the "City Hotel," and is a fine lumber or wooden building of considerable dimensions intended to be <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
054.sgm: great architectural feature of the city, with decorations of as pretending a character as green wood would admit; but as to their affinity to any of the celebrated orders of antiquity, or the incongruous medleys of modern date, I believe it would be just as difficult a task to decide upon the exact relationship of Dermot Mac Fig's Dulcinea, which she pleaded in extenuation of <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Being caught dancing a jig<LB>With a mealman so tall so tall and so big,</HI>
054.sgm:</p><P>as to say whether the Corinthian, the Gothic, the Ionic, or which other of the nics or niches could lay best claim <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:to the flattering connexion.  In a word, it is a showy edifice, with a good deal of cutting, carving, and scratching, clothed in a gaudy suit of flaring paints, and a large projecting verandah and balcony to relieve the "broad Atlantic of its countenance.</p><P>The interior is laid out more with a view to profit than comfort, the saloons for the <HI REND="italics">table d'ho&circ;te</HI>
054.sgm: and wet smokers being more than ordinarily capacious, while the dormitories were on the other extreme; those with single beds being cramped, pinched-up little cells, wide enough in one proportion for a split mattress, and in the other for a slim wash-hand-stand, a narrow chair, the occupant, and his valise.  There were some half-dozen state sleeping-rooms of more extensive dimensions, with one or two more articles of attenuated furniture, and space enough for the attendant when summoned to come in bodily, on which a corresponding high tariff was exacted; and one large omnibus apartment, with sleeping traps, or bunks, as they are called, four deep all around, festooned with printed or daubed calico, calculated to accommodate, or more properly speaking, hold an entire regiment; in the centre of which stood an undressed dressing-table, surmounted with an exaggerated basin, and looking-glass to match; while from its horns hung in chains an elephantine rack and brush on either side, the tooth-brush being exempt from restraint, either because it was comparatively valueless, or because the eccentric motions of dental purification required it to be free.  The order of each day is "one <HI REND="italics">done</HI>
054.sgm: another come on," in conformity with which a rank of candidates, with tucked-up sleeves and tuckeddown collars, stand in exact file for their turns.  The man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:next the person in process very generally taking a rasp at the tooth-brush, either to while away the time, or have so much of his job over.  The main apartment is one having a spacious bar at one end, with an elongated counter, on which were ranged the different potatory implements and instruments, arranged in their most attractive positions; behind which were rows of nicely-decorated kegs, with their polished brass cocks and distinctive designations, the space over them being garnished with bottles of every variety of size, shape, and hue, labelled most picturesquely.  At the other end stood a billiard-table, and sundry other tables, where folks might either sip their beverage or open their prayer-books, or both; each of which were rented out to Monte dealers, roulette players, or chuck-a-luck men; chairs, rocking and rickety, being distributed at convenient intervals, and the "walls hung around" with prints of the lions indigenous to the States.</p><P>It was not exactly the most propitious day for inspecting the premises, as the crowd that thronged it was immense, the hospitable lessees having spread a gratuitous board for all comers, where the fare was most plentiful and excellent, attendance most prompt, every call being attended to with as much alacrity and apparent cheerfulness as if the screw was at work, Champagne being produced as quickly as water, and pastry--which bears a most exorbitant price--being as plentiful as hard bread; while demolished hams, joints of beef, mutton, and venison, were magically replaced by most becoming successors, permitting me to take for granted that the culinary department was most conveniently and efficiently contrived.  The feast was prolonged for several hours, and the drinking, until its effects, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:were irresistible.  Putting the current price upon the different meats, drinks, esculents, condiments, &amp;c., which were put to the sacrifice on that day, I could fearlessly assert that five thousand dollars would not cover the expense.  The building and furniture of the concern cost fifty thousand dollars, and it is rented at a yearly impost of ten thousand dollars--rather a respectable rent for such a concern, in a city not of twelve months' standing.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Prepare for the Northern Trip--Admiral Stockton's magnanimous Conduct--Select an Ox-Team--Price of Hay--Lose some of our Animals--Obliged to travel our First Stage by Night--Road Marks--Our Nap on the Trail--Disappointed Hopes--Distress of the Oxen--Reach the River--Resume our Journey--Find good Quarters, and kill a Deer--Fair's Ranch--Those Establishments in Days of Yore--The Contrast now--Mr. Fair's Tariff on the Productions of his Ranch--The Juba Indians--We Trade with them--Their Mode of Fishing--The River and the Crossing--Visit a Mining Encampment--Our Trail to Feather River--Our Camp and our Neighbours--Their treacherous Conduct--Attempt at Explanation--Declaration of Hostility--Disposition of our Forces--Night Attack--Appearances in the Morning--Order of Crossing--The Action--The Retreat of the Indians to their Village--Its Appearnce--Get over in Safety--Precautionary Arrangements--Scenery along the River--More Night Travel--Its Object--Bad Roads--Emigrant Encampment--Their wretched State and sad News--Unparalleled Sufferings of the later Emigrants--Caught in the Snow--Their fearful Privations and Struggles--Fatal Results--Disease and Insanity on the Humboldt--Ague on the Sacramento--Bitter Regret of those Emigrants for leaving a comfortable Home.</p><P>My health and strength now rapidly improving, we began turning  our attention to the trip northward, but discovered that we should proceed by the slow medium of oxen, as the magnanimous resolve of Admiral Stockton to appropriate 150,000 dollars to aid the suffering emigrants in reaching their destination, suddenly enhanced the price of mules, and swept the market of every serviceable animal.  We therefore selected three yoke of choice steers, and having laid in all our stores, mining implements, and a riding-nag each, which I was enabled to supply from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:my stock in a neighbouring ranch, we moved about six miles out, crossing the Rio de los Americanos, to avoid the dust, din, and heat of the city, and secure cheap food for our animals, as hay was then ten dollars per hundred-weight in town.  After two days spent in revising our schedule and completing our preparations, we set about hunting up our cattle and horses, that were permitted to roam at large over the plain, but after a most toilsome day's search, two yoke of our oxen were missing.  Early on the following day we went out mounted, traversing the interminable plains, and diligently looking amongst the crowds of oxen with which they were dotted, only finding another yoke; but rather than lose any more time, we purchased another pair of steers, resolved on starting the same evening.</p><P>We were constrained to travel during the night, having to cross a space of about thirty miles without either grass or water--a feat difficult for a veteran Mexican mule, but altogether impossible for oxen, if attempted during the heat of the day--so, just as the sun's red disc was sinking behind the ridge of the distant coast-range mountains, we got into motion.  The moon was young, but the star-spangled heavens enabled us to keep our trail without difficulty until we came fairly on the open prairie, when we resorted to the old arrangement of taking it in turns to walk in advance and pick out the line, which was not much travelled at the time; for should it happen that we diverged much, we might be caught in the succeeding sun at a great distance from pasture, water, or shelter, as the vegetation on this entire tract was actually singed to the roots.  Our progress was slow but sure, with a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:scattered guarantees of dead oxen and broken-down waggons.  When we were six hours at work, we unhitched, to give the cattle a little rest in the absence of any other comfort, they seemed perfectly aware of their position; for, after a very limited survey, they all lay down, while we unsaddled the horses, and fastening the lariats to our legs or wrists, followed their example on our well-aired couches, the ground being still unpleasantly warm; all, however, enjoyed a sound nap, the first that awoke starting up the balance.</p><P>We plodded on steadily, expecting that daylight would reveal to us some natural hospitality; and never did sailors, after a long cruise, yearn for the loom of the land more eagerly than did we, for the indications of water and vegetation.  But daylight broke, and expanded into warmth without disclosing any of the wished-for symptoms, producing a general pause of disappointment; and as we strained our vision in the search, I conceived the poor beasts peered piteously with pricked ears in the same direction.  All around and about, however, was a flat, brown plain, bounded by the horizon; that our course was right we were assured of, by the solitary trail and the sun's elevation; still it pained me as we urged on our tired animals.  We journeyed for two hours' more, the sun beginning to blaze out with great strength, when a long line of faint specks were descried, which, in our apprehensive frame of mind, led us to fear we were surveying the shadowy phantoms of mirage.  Another mile, however, relieved our suspense, exhibiting the unmistakable outline of timber, the bare view of which revived us, and had clearly an exhilarating effect on both horses and oxen, who mended their pace of their own accord; but it was blazing noon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:ere we got into the shade of their foliage close by the golden stream of the Sacramento; and although the cravings of appetite were very importunate, the predominance of languor and fatigue asserted their influence on both men and beasts; for, after slaking our thirsts in long and reiterated draughts from the cool current, all lay down to rest without partaking of any food.</p><P>We resumed our journey after a few hours' repose and a hurried repast, coming to excellent quarters for the night, about nine miles further on, by the margin of a cool, pellucid creek, flowing towards the Sacramento, where one of our party killed a fat doe--on some chops from which we regaled ourselves sumptuously.  Our next day's march involved the crossing of another parched plain, of about seventeen miles in extent, which brought us to a ranch occupied by a person named Fair, who had numerous droves of oxen and horses herded by Indians.  His house stands in the centre of a fenced-in space, on which, by means of irrigation, he raised a sickly crop of corn and vegetables.  It is a comfortable tenement, two stories high; the first constructed of logs, the other of clabboards, roofed with shingles, with a verandah around three sides; stables, sheds, and a corral adjoining the fourth, strewed over with corn-cobs and straw, on which young foals, calves, and pigs were disporting themselves.</p><P>Before the discovery of the mines such establishments as this were the head-quarters of genuine unaffected hospitality; where the enterprising emigrating settler, or the investigating traveller, might take up his abode without invitation, and enjoy, not only the products of the ranch, but whatever grocery luxuries the premises could afford, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:all ministered with a bountiful, good-natured cheerfulness (as I am informed), leaving the travel-toiled recipient at comfortable ease, to recruit himself until he chose to resume his wanderings, when a leave-taking, mutually regretful, ensued, unleavened by either guile or hypocrisy; but now-a-days, "a change has come o'er the spirit of their dreams;" the emotions of nature are transmuted into the promptings of avarice, and the greetings of friendly communion have degenerated into a calculating welcome, without even a traditionary tinge of that hospitality which bloomed and bore its sweet fruit one short year before.  The rural host has now donned the airs of a clumsy boniface; the wife drops the propitiatory curtsey of the landlady; the helps, waiting for orders, survey the equipage, as if to calculate the resources of the owners; the very children affected by a trained reserve, which completed the melancholy triumph of sordid avarice over the natural emanation of kindliness and the best feelings of humanity.  Such is one of the revolutions wrought by the discovery of gold, and no doubt others of as strange and more portentous character will follow.</p><P>We called at Mr. Fair's domicile, and found the interior even more comfortable and better furnished than we expected.  Seeing so many young calves about, we made sure of a profusion of milk and butter--rarities we had not tasted since we left the Mormon city; but they were rarities for which we had to pay smartly--a small-sized cup full being estimated at twenty-five cents--a rate of charges that curbed our longings effectually.  After getting a way-bill from the host (which he gave with a bad grace from our stingy expenditure), we proceeded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:eight miles further to the crossing of the Juba, where there was a formidable encampment of Indians, of more stalwart stature and proportions than those further south, and exempt, so far as I could see, from any external indications of that insidious complaint so prevalent on the Lower Sacramento, whither, I presume, it was carried by mariners, who had easy access from the coast.  Mr. Fair told us we had nothing to apprehend from them, as they were in the habit of living amongst and working for the miners in the contiguous diggings; however, their number and our paucity counselled precaution.</p><P>They learned the art of gold-digging, it was clear, for they came to offer a trade of dust for guns or pistols, but there was only one old carabine that we would part with, for which they readily gave two ounces, all we asked; we got in addition, two fine trout for a few biscuits, for they are very expert in catching fish with spears and in willowtraps, with an aperture like that of a salmon-box, into which a fish can enter with ease, but cannot return.  Those they place in artificial currents; into which they turn different shoots of the river by rows of stakes and brush, constructed in the shape of eel-wires.  Juba River is a fine stream of good dimensions, deep enough for navigable purposes, a considerable distance up to where it widens out at the ford, passing over a broad, level, gravelly bed.  Its waters in the stream appear of a greenish hue, but when taken into a glass are perfectly colourless, clear, and well-tasted; it is a tributary of the Sacramento joining Feather River a few miles above its mouth.  The ford itself offers no obstruction to the traveller, but the entrance and exit are very bad indeed, both steep, and composed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:of loose fine sand that slips from the tread, rendering anything like heavy draught impossible.  We accomplished it mainly with ropes, and encamped rather early a few miles beyond it, in a sycamore grove, where odd tufts of coarse grass, that retained some remnant of their succulent properties under the fostering shade of some scattered timber, offered middling feed for the animals.</p><P>I rode on a few miles to see the mining operations, for which the river had attained a high character, and found a considerable settlement, I saw by the result of their afternoon's labours that they were making very good wages.  There was one large cumbrous machine driven by a stream, diverted from the river higher up, in which there was a quicksilver compartment to perfect the entire process at the one operation; but it worked lazily, and, as I heard, ineffectively, not turning out as much gold as the simple cradle, worked with half the number of hands, for this leviathan washer kept a troop of men raising and feeding it with dirt.  The gold of the Juba ran larger than any I had previously seen, but not of so pure a quality as that of the Weber, and was beside exceedingly capricious in its deposits, one mess making handsomely, while their next neighbours, to use a mining phrase, were scarce able to "raise the colour;" so that when a good location on it is worked out, it may be a matter of tedious search to hit upon another.  I got a billet for the night with a party, amongst whom there was a few of the "hereditary bondsmen," but was at my own camp in the morning before they had made their toilet.</p><P>Our trail next day over to Feather River took a more north-west course, and was very trying from the number <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:of deep gullies and dry river-beds we had to cross.  There was nothing of a fertile character in the nature of the soil, nor any striking feature in the aspect of the country, beyond the few old oaks that were met with at long intervals on our march.  We pitched our tents on a high bank overhanging the ford of the river, from which we had under our gaze a large Indian village below it, on the opposite side; there was a sort of half-shaded dell near our camp, where we drove the animals, the grass being tall, but of the tinge and nature of old hay; however, for want of better, they eat it with a good appetite.  We were not well settled when a party of Indian visitors waited upon us--good-looking fellows, and well limbed:  they both talked, and understood a little Spanish, promising us fish, and giving us all assurances of friendship, which, nevertheless, they soon after attempted to betray.  Two of our party, having gone out in pursuit of deer, parted company, each attended a few Indians, who, the moment "D." discharged his rifle, seized hold of it by the barrel, endeavouring at the same time to pinion him and extract his bowie-knife from the sheath: he was fortunate, however, in having a revolver in his belt, with which he soon put them to rout, the savage who wrested the rifle from him dropping it in his flight.  The other deer-stalker did not happen to meet any game, and consequently escaped with his rifle and his scalp, for had he had occasion to shoot he might probably have been minus both , not having any side-arms.</p><P>Some short time after our men returned to camp, the chief and his squaw, with four attendants, approached, evidently with the intention of explaining away the affair, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:and apologising for his subjects' conduct; but we resolved they should not come again into our quarters.  So I went forward, beckoning them back in rather an angry mood, at which I could see the old potentate was nettled, but, like a good tactician, who understood and appreciated the seductive influences of female interposition, he brought forward his royal partner, both making soothing and conciliatory gestures.  However, by an unusual effort, my duty overcame my gallantry, and I resisted the soft blandishments, repeating my repulsive motions with a growl in the unknown tongues; upon which the old chief flared up with great rage and savage dignity, rushing forward a few steps, and shouting out, in a voice of madness, "Arra, arra, arra!" at the same time swinging the back of his hand very violently towards us, which one of our friends understood was tantamount to warning us off his territory in the most peremptory manner.  He then retired, and we had sufficient light to see, when he returned to the village, that he mustered all his men around him, gesticulating violently, all looking in the direction of our camp.</p><P>I felt so satisfied they would attack us before morning, that I arranged a general watch of all hands for the night, carrying all the arms we could stick around our persons, which we previously shot off, for the double purpose of loading them anew and letting the enemy know the strength of our armoury.  Between rifles, revolvers, double and single-barrelled pistols, and double-shot guns, we came up to the formidable number of fifty-three discharges--a pretty fair amount for a cohort six strong, which produced a very warlike effect, fired in quick but regular succession.  We then picketed our horses in a crescent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:from, hemming in the oxen between them and the steep bank, on the edge of which stood the waggon, distributing ourselves at equal intervals, marching and countermarching, without exchanging a word for a few hours, or being able to notice any strange or hostile movement.</p><P>At length the uneasiness of one of the horses put us upon the alert, and the next moment some arrows whizzed past us, upon which Mr. S--e fired a load of buck-shot in the direction he supposed them to come from, which elicited a perfect shower, one taking effect in his shoulder, others wounding three of the oxen and one of the horses.  The discharge was followed by a quick movement, rendered audible by the crushing of dried leaves and branches, which guided us, in some measure, in our aims, as we fired one round; soon after which all noise was hushed for the night.  Mr. S--e's wound was slight and superficial; but there was one of the oxen rendered unfit for present use, thus reducing our team to two yoke.  We could not ascertain if we wounded or killed any of the assailants, as, if at all possible, they carry off their dead to prevent their being scalped, which next after death they are most fearful of.  But when morning broke we saw them mustered in all their forces on the bank above the ford; from which position, I suppose, they calculated to intercept our crossing and enjoy perfect security, while we would be altogether exposed to their arrows and missiles.</p><P>Their numbers, as closely as we could compute them, were from ninety to one hundred--rather an overmatch for six; but our fire-arms counted largely in our favour, and our prompt determination turned the balance; for had we hesitated or wavered in the least, it would have given those savages a confidence which might have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:completed our destruction before we could check it.  So, after a very early and simple breakfast, we commenced preparations as if nothing occurred, or nothing was apprehended, another and I going to the edge of the bank, with two rifles of the largest calibre, that would carry well over to our opponents--a distance of five hundred yards--which I believe they conceived impossible; for when I raised my gun to cause them to retire, they set up a hideous yell of derision, which was soon lulled by the fall of one of them.  My companion, an excellent marksman, also fired, and hit the chief, reeled, but did not fall; after which a hurried and general movement in retreat took place, that stayed us from repeating our discharges, showing them all we required was a free and unmolested passage.</p><P>After some little delay in tending their wounded, they planted themselves in about equal numbers on the tops of their huts, which are formed by excavating the earth in a circular form, about twelve feet in diameter and four feet deep, then bending over them, in a semiglobular from, stout saplings, and binding and twining them closely with vine tendrils, over which they put a coating of adhesive clay, that renders them impervious to rain, an opening large enough to admit of entrance in a crawling posture being left in the side, on a level with the ground.  In external shape they resemble a mound; consequently, at a distance, the village had the appearance of a number of little tumuli, and the Indians on their crowns, armed with all their primitive weapons, produced a strange picture, entirely in keeping with the locality.  They took up their position with a quiet but determined air, showing they were resolved to repel our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:apprehended assault, defend their "household gods" to the death.  As soon as we observed their determination, my companion and I crossed over, leaving two others in our old position, and under cover of our guns the waggon commenced crossing--a task of doubtful completion, owing to the steepness of the banks, the crippling of our team, and the absence of manual assistance, as we were otherwise employed; however, after a multitude of pauses, and a large expenditure of wattles, the thing was accomplished, and our march continued, with all our arms in requisition, having for despatch made cartridges for all our guns and rifles.</p><P>As we receded from the village the Indians descended, but did not attempt following; nevertheless, we bore in mind the rule of Indian retribution which is two lives for one, and resolved to keep a vigilant look-out while in their territory.  It is a deplorable circumstance that, even after the offending party have passed on, they satiate their unquenchable revenge on the first whiteskin they catch in their power, which often hurries an innocent and unsuspecting victim to a premature death.</p><P>The trail now wound through a sycamore and white oak grove that fringed the river, whose sloping bank was covered with an infinite variety of shrubs and evergreens, arrayed in glossy verdure, bearing flowers and blossoms of most delicate beauty and exquisite fragrance, amidst which, tangled festoons of the indigenous vine drooped with the pendant bunches of purple grapes.  Arbutus was the only shrub I was familiar with, but its unusual size made me almost doubtful of its identity.  The manzanita was also thickly interspersed, whose berry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:I found was equally a favourite with the Indian and the grizly bear: it seems to me a hardy bush, that would flourish in our soil, and be a desirable addition to our horticultural collections.  The plain in the neighbourhood was less parched than those we passed over, openly wooded, with enormous oaks, devoid of underwood, just far enough apart to stretch out to full length their gigantic arms.  This was the only district I saw since I left Sacramento that bore the most remote resemblance to the ideal charms of that flattered valley; but even it was a wan and faded representation of the gorgeous and florid pictures painted by enthusiasts or speculators.</p><P>We nooned very early, for the purpose of allowing time for repose, sufficient to compensate us for what we lost the previous night, and enable us to forego it again on the coming one, which we agreed to occupy in travelling, for the double purpose of evading our foes and getting over a barren prairie of about eighteen miles, on which there was neither pasture nor water.  We started at four o'clock, and before dark got upon this bleak and truly desolate district, on which there was not a shred of vegetation, the ungrateful soil being seamed and scored with cracks and flaws, resulting from the heat, and covered with a red cindery stone and drossy gravel, that made  it resemble the vast hearth of a great volcano.  The poor bullocks limped tenderly over it; and our horses yielded so sensitively, we got off and led them.  Several deep, rocky, dry river-beds, added to the difficulties of our march, and tested the creaking joints and mortices of our waggon, none of the soundest at the first.</p><P>Before dawn we saw a fire a long way off, and, as we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:came closer, could see figures moving about it, but were unable to discern whether they were Indians or not; however, as we approximated, two waggons were observable in the glare, which at once quieted our suspicions, and led us to anticipate the neighbourhood of water.  They were a section of an emigrant party just coming in from the plains by the northern pass route, and their tale of sufferings was truly heart-harrowing, being piteously corroborted, not only by their own wasted and cadaverous appearances, but by the wretched and emaciated condition of their animals.  Still they suffered many, many degrees short of the unimaginable horrors and miseries of those behind them, who were principally constituted of families contemplating a permanent settlement in California, whose waggons were larger, more cumbrous, and more heavily laden with the greater quantity of provision and necessaries a larger mess stood in need of, and the numerous articles indispensable where women and children formed a main portion of the company.  From the start those ponderous equipages were difficult to haul; but as the oxen became footsore and leg-weary, and the different camping locations were cropped completely bare of herbage by the multitudes who preceded them, their progress was miserably slow, protracted by long halts of some days at a time, which so consumed the season, that by the time the ridges of the Sierra Nevada were discernible, its peaks and passes were arrayed in their winter drapery, presenting a fearful barrier to the worn-down travellers.</p><P>Then, but, alas!  too late, did stern but inexorable necessity demand a thorough revision of their loads, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:a casting aside of food, clothing, implements, and furniture, which, if abandoned earlier, would have ensured by that time their destinate arrival; and the stupendous ascent commenced with empty waggons, men and grown boys packing the little they could carry, and weakly mothers wading through the snow-drifts, with their younger offspring on their backs; but out of the many who made this inevitable attempt, few were so fortunate as to gain those glaciered crests that gave them a distant view of the land of promise, and those only by forsaking their waggons, animals, and everything save the meagre kit they could carry over such paths in such an enfeebled state of body.  The remainder, making barricades of their waggons, huddled themselves together, hoping to sustain existence on their starved animals till the return of the genial season; but the rigours of this shelterless life proved too much for numbers of those unfortunate  beings, many a stalwart man, as well as tender woman, being consigned to their cold graves in a shroud of snow, ere the philanthropic measures of the state came to their relief; and it is difficult, indeed to decide whether the revolting fate of those wretched creatures who yielded up their spirits on the burning sands of the arid Desert, or those who breathed their last on the icy pillows of the Sierra Nevada, was the most shocking.</p><P>We soon sunk the feeling of our minor hardships in the sad interest of the many melancholy episodes related to us by those men, who even in their early passage witnessed scenes and occurrences of the most distressing and revolting character, especially along the Humboldt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:and on the Desert, where the trail was so thickly strewed with dead, dying, and decaying animals, as to impregnate the circumambient atmosphere with a sickening stench, the unfortunate emigrants, in addition to the horrors of burning thirst, being afflicted with virulent scurvy, and loathsome ulceration of the lips, mouth, and throat, from the use of the abominable water.  The poor fellows we met came in for their share of the miseries of the journey; and when they imagined they had surmounted all their trials, on reaching the fabled glories of the Valley of the Sacramento, they were pounced upon by the dire ague of the country, only one out of thirteen having escaped it.  Many a bitter tear they shed as they recounted their sufferings, and contrasted the comforts of the home they left with the drear prospects before them.  We parted from them before they could muster energy to move, ministering all we could to their grievous requirements.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Appearance of the Country--The distant Mountains--Reach the Banks of the Sacramento--More Emigrant Camps--Prevalence of Disease--Lawson's Rancho--His Exactions--Dispense some Medicine--Shoot two wild Steers, and divide the Beef--Lawson's Conduct and Ours--Take a Day's Rest--Campfire Stories--Superior Endurance of Females--Leave the Northern Emigrant Trail--Country improves--Friendly Indian Visit--Fork and Ford of the Sacramento--Difficulties of the Passage--Dangerous Affair--Attain the Western Side in Safety--Profusion of Grapes--Pleasing Scenery--Cotton-wood Creek--Returning Diggers--Clear Creek--More invalided Diggers--Lose our Horses--Fruitless Search--The Hire of a Mule--Uncomfortable Night--Give up all Hopes of the Horses--Fresh Bear-prints--Misgivings about the Prudence of an Encounter--Preparations--The Assault--The Chase--The Escape and Conquest--Return to the Trading-post with a paw as a Trophy--Estimate of his Weight--Great Size they attain--French Trapper's Advice how to act when pursued--Their Mode of killing their Victims.</p><P>OUR course for three days lay over barren hills and plains covered with calcareous rocks and stones, and a reddish calcined clay, that more resembled coarse ashes than earth in its appearance and feel, all clearly the result of great volcanic convulsions.  The horsemen were obliged to be constantly on the scout in quest of water and pasture, but their most diligent researches failed in securing a sufficiency of either, which we endeavoured to make up for by giving the animals cornmeal gruel twice a day.  As we advanced in our north-west course the ridges of the Sierra Nevada kept quickly slanting in the same direction, until the hills abutting them appeared in the extreme <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:distance to merge into those which jutted from the coast range mountains on the other side, through which the Sacramento forced its copious channel.</p><P>On the evening of the third day our eyes were again gladdened by the appearance of timber betwixt us and the horizon, and by forcing our pace we were able to reach the banks of the Sacramento late in the night, where the tinkling of bells and the glowing embers of camp-fires assured us of company who had all retired to rest; but we stirred up, and made use of their fires in cooking our supper, which we enjoyed the more from the conviction that our poor animals, too, had plenty to eat.  All hands turned in for the first time, as we had no apprehension about Indians, and the grass was too good to permit the stock to ramble.  In the morning, we found our new neighbours were a wing of another broken company of emigrants, quite as afflicted as those we parted from a few days before, both with the sufferings of the journey and the prevalence of scurvy and ague, several cases of the former being of the most aggravated and shocking form.  They had been resting and recruiting there for some days; but though wild cattle were abundant in the neighbourhood, they had not strength or energy to make an effort to kill any, and had run down their limited means to a very low ebb in purchasing fresh provision at a large rancho hard by, owned by an unconscionable fellow of the name of Lawson, who established himself there with the view of battening on the destitution of his fellow-creatures, whose line of travel unavoidably passed his door.  His tariff of prices were unparalleled even in the diggings; and he appeared just as devoid of charity or the milk of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:human kindness, as of conscience--exemptions that run and count as sequins in the great game of worldly cribbage in general.</p><P>To some of those most seriously afflicted we gave such pickles and medicine as we could spare from our small chest, while a party of our men went out and shot two fine steers, which we drew into camp on waggons, and distributed amongst our new acquaintances, keeping one quarter for ourselves to jerk: it was a most timely and welcome gift, received and acknowledged with tearful gratitude.  In the course of the day, however, the fellow Lawson came to our camp in a very rude and insolent manner to lecture us for our conduct, demanding the price of <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
054.sgm: beeves, as he called them; but we met his impertinence with a spirit and determination that very soon changed his swaggering into servility, showing him the hides were without a brand, and giving him a spice of our minds about his cruel exactions, which caused him to sneak off in a most discomfited manner.</p><P>We took a day's rest here also, and employed ourselves in cutting up and drying our meat, which was first-rate.  In the evening, all those that were able to sit up gathered round our great joint-stock camp-fire, detailing "all their accidents by flood and field," and giving us melancholy corroboration of the sad account we got from those who preceded them.  It was a strange feature in the journey, that the few women and grown up girls were comparatively robust and healthy, while the men were worn and ailing, notwithstanding that the greater portion of the hard labour, since their sufferings commenced, even to the hewing of wood and driving the teams, had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:performed by the females.  Their spirits, too, were high and elastic, and often seemed to counteract the lethargic despondency of the men.</p><P>We left them on the morning of the second day, and immediately beyond Lawson's diverged from the emigrant trail, getting into a more fertile and picturesque country than we had travelled through since we left the city, closely intersected with brawling rivulets flowing from the contiguous hills into the Sacramento.  The soil was a rich black loam, peculiarly adapted to agriculture, and capable of being irrigated over a large section of its extent; the grasses and clover were not entirely decayed, and must have formed a luxuriant crop earlier in the season.  It was thinly wooded with oak, and teemed with wild cattle, deer, and bears, close in by the ravines of the mountains.  We had no trouble in selecting a good camping location, where we had a friendly call from some Indians, who brought with them a string of capital trout, which they gladly bartered for biscuit and an article or two of old clothing.  They wanted to remain with us all night; but this we would not permit, giving us to understand (as they went away reluctantly) by signs and noises, that they were afraid of being attacked by the bears; but we knew, if we suffered them to stay, the eyes of Argus would not prevent them from stealing.</p><P>Our next camping-ground was equally good, close by the banks of the Sacramento, which here forks for some distance, offering the only ford that occurs in its entire course, the first branch of which was not over 100 yards wide, but rapid, and so deep as to enforce the operation of propping up the waggon-bed.  The banks, however, were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:firm and sloping; so, by taking a down stream slant, we got over tolerably east; but we had then an exceedingly trying tug, through deep sand and loose gravel, for half a mile, over the bar or island to the other prong, which was a formidable obstacle, from its extreme breadth, swiftness, and the round smooth cobble-stones which constituted its bottom, covered with a green slimy coating, that rendered the footing fearfully insecure, while the pellucid water rushing over them in an unbroken current produced a dizzy giddiness, that seemed to affect the animals as well as the men.  Another serious disadvantage arose in the necessity of crossing it exactly at right angles with the flood, the formation of the shores only admitting of one going out place; for those only who have tried the experiment can conceive the magnitude of the task of endeavouring to keep oxen (especially) in a point blank course through a rapid river, where, if one happened to fall, the fate of the rest and the waggon would be sealed, as such a check would be sure to involve all in the accident; and, to crown the undertaking, the deep water was not far below, ready to sweep all into eternity.</p><P>I rode in just to make trial; but my horse, who was always shy of water, soon slipped to his knees, bringing his nose and half-head under water; he, however, made a gallant struggle, regaining his feet, but wheeling about in the effort, made for the shore, maugre all my efforts to the contrary, which, perhaps, an impartial observer would not set down as of the most resolute order; nor could I get him to try it again in advance.  Had he been swept on his side, I verily believe both he and I would have been drowned, for in such a stream I do not think it would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:possible to recover from such a position.  It was subsequently arranged that one should ride ahead, one ride the near lead ox, one drive from the waggon, two ride below the team to keep them straight, and the other bring up the rear; in this order we went on with really serious misgivings, the more particularly from seeing the lead horse stumbling and floundering every few yards.  The oxen managed better in that respect than the horses, but the surging of the current against their sides made them swerve so violently at times, that they jostled the horses almost to throwing them.  Once they leant so long and obstinately against them, I resigned all hope, and shuddered for the fate of my companions; but with a heroism worthy of higher achievements, the riders struggled and persevered until we gained a shoal, where we got a breathing lapse, and going up its extreme length head to stream, more than regained our lost ground; besides, the bottom for the remainder of the way was much more level and compact, by which means we proceeded steadily until we pulled out, exhausted, to be sure, one and all agreeing that nothing in the whole overland route was more trying or dangerous.</p><P>We stopped to noon on the river edge, where the pasture was good, and the brush along the banks interlaced with vines, bearing "a bacchanal profusion of purple and gushing grapes," not over large, but exceeding juicy and well-flavoured, on which we regaled ourselves not only to repletion, but I believe to excess.  We followed the river for eight or ten miles, gradually ascending all the time, until the banks attained an elevation that made one dizzy on looking down them: the country on both sides was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:charming, its undulating surface studded with noble trees, which to some extent preserved its verdure, backed by bold mountain ranges, the translucent river shining at intervals in its wooded vales.</p><P>Next day our course lay as if towards the point of a triangle, not in a straight line, though, but winding through sinuous labyrinths round the bases of hills, through ravines, and along dry river-beds that finally led us into an open plain, pleasingly adorned with crowded clumps of planting, bounded on its northern border by a small river called Cotton-Wood Creek, from the prevalence of that timber along it.  There were three waggons encamped there, returning from the diggings on the North Sacramento, in consequence of the prevalence of dysentery and ague there.  Their party were all, without an exception, invalids, and strongly remonstrated with us about going further.  However, we left them early next morning, and after crossing the creek, entered rather a fertile valley, circumscribed in breadth, skirted by timber, behind which, to the westward, lofty hills arose in fanciful shapes; stretching north, as far as the vision could penetrate, the valley gradually expanded as we travelled upwards, widening into an immense plain, where we again struck the Sacramento; thence it contracted as we approached Clear Creek, which flows eastward into that river.  There is a trading-post there, a rude log-building, covered with canvas, got up for the purpose of cheating the diggers under pretence of supplying their wants: we crossed over the creek, camping on the other side amongst a large party of sickly diggers, on their down journey.  The grass was all eaten up by the stock kept by the traders, so that ours <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:had no aliment but what they browsed off the thick brush around them; and next morning, when we came to catch them up, we only got our oxen after a crouching search through the jungle.</p><P>The waggon went on, another and I remaining to recover the horses, keeping two saddles and bridles.  The space on which we camped was in the shape of a peninsula, formed by the junction of Clear Creek with the Sacramento, and not so extensive that they could evade a diligent search; so, after satisfying ourselves they were not in it, we recrossed the creek, and saw by the fresh footmarks and the lines formed by the dragging of the lariats, that they had taken the back trail.  We followed up those marks for four miles, until they diverged into the bush, when they were no longer apparent.  My comrade and I then chose each a direction and separated, agreeing to meet at the trading-post; but after a three hours' anxious search I commenced retracing my steps, partly abandoning all hopes, and partly in the expectation my friend had found them; but on my return I found him there before me, without having any tidings whatever of them.  We then cooked a rude repast of fried pork and hard bread, that cost us the moderate sum of two dollars each, and set out upon another trial, giving ourselves a latitude as far back as Cotton Wood (sixteen miles), where we thought they might have been allured by the good grass, for without them we could not proceed to Trinity, our destination.  The last ninety miles being merely a pack-trail, over steep mountains, and one of the most impracticable character, we deemed it prudent to separate ourselves, my companion taking the home circuit; and mine, being the more distant, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:I hired a mule of a most Rozenantish pattern from one of the traders, such an animal as is called a "Crowbait" in Yankeeland; however, his threadbare appearance did not subtract from the owner's estimate of his services, one ounce per day being the rate of hire.  We moved off briskly, for his movements were better than his looks gave promise of, and I did not encumber him with a heavy knapsack of provisions.  I saw nothing of the horses up to the point where I before halted, and from thence I kept quartering the plain until night, like a vessel beating to windward, without getting any trace of them; then picketing my mule and taking some slight refreshment, I lay down to rest, but did not enjoy much repose, from the nipping coolness of the night and the incessant howling of the coyotes, who came at times so close, and in such numbers, I was afraid to encourage sleep.  I therefore looked anxiously for the dawn, getting into the saddle at the first peep of twilight, and reached Cotton Wood without any better fortune, not having left a nook or likely clump unsearched.</p><P>I now took a long farewell of the horses, and turned northward, selecting a line close in by the base of the hills, going along at an improved pace, with a view of reaching the trading-post the same night; but stopping in a gully to look for water, I found a little pool, evidently scratched out by a bear, as there were footprints and claw-marks about it; and I was aware instinct prompts that brute where water is nearest the surface, when he scratches until he comes to it.  This was one of very large size, the footmark behind the toes being full nine inches; and although I had my misgivings about the prudence of a <HI REND="italics">te&circ;te-a&grave;-te&circ;</HI>
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054.sgm:was overcome, as it often is, by the anticipated honour and glory of a single combat, and conquest of such a ferocious beast.  I was well armed, too, with my favourite rifle, a Colt's revolver, that never disappointed me, and a nondescript weapon, a sort of cross betwixt a claymore and a bowie-knife; so, after capping afresh, hanging the bridle on the horn of the saddle, and staking my mule, I followed the trail up a gully, and much sooner than I expected came within view and good shooting distance of Bruin, who was seated erect, with his side towards me, in front of a manzanita bush, making a repast on his favourite berry.</p><P>The sharp click of the cock causing him to turn quickly round, left little time for deliberation; so, taking a ready good aim at the region of the heart, I let drive, the ball (as I subsequently found) glancing along the ribs, entering the armpit, and shattering smartly some of the shoulder bones.  I exulted as I saw him stagger and come to his side; the next glance, however, revealed him, to my dismay, on all fours, in direct pursuit, but going lame; so I bolted for the mule, sadly encumbered with a huge pair of Mexican spurs, the nervous noise of the crushing brush close in my rear convincing me he was fast gaining on me; I therefore dropped my rifle, putting on fresh steam, and reaching the rope, pulled up the picket-pin, and, springing into the saddle with merely a hold of the lariat, plunged the spurs into the mule, which, much to my affright, produced a kick and a retrograde movement; but in the exertion, having got a glimpse of my pursuer, uttering a snort of terror, he went off at a pace I did not think him capable of, soon widening the distance betwixt us and the bear; but having no means of guiding his motions, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:brought me violently in contact with the arm of a tree, which unhorsed and stunned me exceedingly.  Scrambling to my feet as well as I could, I saw my relentless enemy close at hand, leaving me the only alternative of ascending a tree; but, in my hurried and nervous efforts, I had scarcely my feet above his reach, when he was right under, evidently enfeebled by the loss of blood, as the exertion made it well out copiously.  After a moment's pause, and a fierce glare upwards from his bloodshot eyes, he clasped the trunk; but I saw his endeavours to climb were crippled by the wounded shoulder.  However, by the aid of his jaws, he just succeeded in reaching the first branch with his sound arm, and was working convulsively to bring up the body, when, with a well-directed blow from my cutlass, I completely severed the tendons of the foot, and he instantly fell, with a dreadful souse and horrific growl, the blood spouting up as if impelled from a jet; he arose again somewhat tardily, and limping round the tree with upturned eyes, kept tearing off the bark with his tusks.  However, watching my opportunity, and leaning downwards, I sent a ball from my revolver with such good effect immediately behind the head, that he dropped; and my nerves being now rather more composed, I leisurely distributed the remaining five balls in the most vulnerable parts of his carcase.</p><P>By this time I saw the muscular system totally relaxed, so I descended with confidence, and found him quite dead, and myself not a little enervated with the excitement and the effects of my wound, which bled profusely from the temple; so much so, that I thought an artery was ruptured.  I bound up my head as well as I could, loaded my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:revolver anew, and returned for my rifle; but as evening was approaching, and my mule gone, I had little time to survey the dimensions of my fallen foe, and no means of packing much of his flesh.  I therefore hastily hacked off a few steaks from his thigh, and hewing off one of his hind-feet as a sure trophy of victory, I set out towards the trading-post, which I reached about midnight, my friend and my truant mule being there before me, but no horses.</p><P>I exhibited the foot of my fallen foe in great triumph, and described the conflict with due emphasis and effect to the company, who arose to listen; after which I made a transfer of the flesh to the traders, on condition that there was not to be any charge for the hotel or the use of the mule.  There was an old experienced French trapper of the party, who, judging from the size of the foot, set down the weight of the bear at 1500 lbs., which, he said, they frequently overrun, he himself, as well as Colonel Fremont's exploring party, having killed several that came to 2000 lbs.  He advised me, should I again be pursued by a bear, and have no other means of escape, to ascend a small-girthed tree, which they cannot get up, for not having any central joint in the fore-legs, they cannot climb any with a branchless stem that does not fully fill their embrace; and in the event of not being able to accomplish the ascent before my pursuer overtook me, to place my back against it, when, if it and I did not constitute a bulk capable of filling his hug, I might have time to rip out his entrails before he could kill me, being in a most favourable posture for the operation.  They do not generally use their mouth in the destruction of their victims, but, hugging them closely, lift one of the hind-feet, which are armed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:with tremendous claws, and tear out the bowels.  The Frenchman's advice reads rationally enough, and is a feasible theory on the art of evading unbearable compression; but, unfortunately, in the haunts of that animal those slim juvenile saplings are rarely met with, and a person closely confronted with such a grizly <HI REND="italics">vis-a&grave;-vis</HI>
054.sgm:, is not exactly in a tone of nerve for surgical operations.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Our Travelling Kit--Beautiful Country--Description of the Scenery--Gold Diggers' Colony--Stop there--Situation of the Settlement--Salt Springs--Mining Operations--Extraordinary Seat of the Gold--Universality of the Deposits in that Region--Make up an Exploring Party to break fresh Ground--Starting of the Expedition--Our Accoutrements--Another Bear Spring--Mr. Myers' Advice--Monster Fire--It attracts Deer--Early Start--Unexpected Indian Visit--Their Appearance--Their Name for Gold--Coney-cum-Quero-- Its mode of Preparation and Cooking--How it was relished--Advice to Mr. Soyer--Indian Propensities--Water in their Language--Character of those Indians--Their Jealousy and want of Hospitality--Find abundant Evidence of Gold--Our Party scatter, and the Stragglers are attacked--We disperse the Indians--They rally, and show Signs of Fight--Their Style of Warfare--The Result--Strike the Sacramento unexpectedly--Indian Camp on the other side--Their Demeanour and its Cause--Our Night Quarters.</p><P>We left next morning, with our saddles, saddle-blankets, and bridles on our backs, which we found exceedingly cumbersome in the heat of the day, so much so that we were on the point of abandoning them several times.  The country through which we passed was beautiful in the extreme;--no grand expansive views, but circumscribed tracts, resembling pretty parks and lovely lawns, with shady dales and glades, enclosed by sloping hills, abutting against others that reared their pine-clad heads aloft, until their peaks diminished into points, their ridges into blades, forming the mighty spurs of the leviathan ranges east and west, from whose cones, in the early season, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:started those numerous rivulets, whose dry beds crossed our path, and along whose banks still flourished the beauteous shrubs indigenous to the country, trelliced by vines laden with luscious grapes, venerable oaks standing at intervals, like guardians of the locality, under whose shade wild cattle screened themselves from the glare of the sun, narrowly watching the movements of the two travellers who were plodding wearily along.  On our right the Sacramento flowed noiselessly past, at times approaching and inviting us to taste its cool translucent current, and again receding so abruptly amidst the hills, as if taking a farewell leave.  The trail was admirably chosen, now stretching boldly along the level surface of those sylvan grounds, and then winding cunningly round the hips of the hills, so as to cheat them of their acclivities; but as we advanced we ceased to meet a continuation of those sweet scenes, whose sequestered loveliness deliciously enchanted the senses, hushing for the time the pinchings of fatigue and the promptings of avarice.</p><P>Our course now became sensibly steeper and more rugged, the timber and brush increasing in density, and stirring with animal life both bear and deer, as their tracks indicated; but as we were not in a hunting mood we did not molest them.  Towards evening we gained a considerable elevation, on which the sound of rushing waters, and the faint report of fire-arms, struck gladly on our ears, giving us assurance of the contiguity of our comrades; so we pushed gaily forward, and reached in the gloaming the brow of a lofty bluff, along the base of which, by the margin of the river, was a regular little colony of gold diggers, whose snow-white tents, distributed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:neighbourly clusters in the open spaces, the several camp-fires, with the groups around them preparing the evening repast, and the cattle, with their many tinkling bells coming down from the adjacent heights to slake their thirst, formed a scene over which the distended eye was delighted to gaze, and the fond imagination to hover, conjuring up pictures of sweet primitive habits and unalloyed felicity; illusions, alas! the very antipodes of the reality.  We lingered here awhile, not so much for the sake of rest, as to feast upon the view beneath us.</p><P>Supper was just commenced when we descended, and we contributed in bringing it to an over-hasty conclusion, our names, to use a vulgar phrase, not being put on the pan; and afterwards held a consultation as to our further movements, when it was unanimously agreed that, in consequence of the loss of our horses, we should halt where we were for some days, to examine the mines, and endeavour to obtain other animals.  In the morning, taking a survey of the locality, the first object that attracted our admiring attention was the Sacramento, which, even at that distance from its mouth, was a noble stream, though at its lowest level.  It was not amazingly broad, but very deep, and rapid exceedingly, rushing complainingly through the scraggy channel awarded it by the contiguous hills.  The banks were bold, leaving no marginal space save at the settlement, which stood on either side of a stream called Middle Creek, from its central position betwixt two others, called Salt and Rock Creeks, all three having their rise in the western hills towards the coast range, holding parallel courses, and emptying into the Sacramento on its western bank, within half a mile of each other, and all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:rich in golden deposits, proving that the grand golden laboratory is not confined exclusively to the bowels of the Sierra Nevada.</p><P>Those creeks are all deeply impregnated with the saline mineral, especially Salt Creek, where there are numerous springs, round which pure coarse salt can be gathered in large quantities.  Their streams had then subsided into strings of stagnant pools, which were crowded with diggers, who formed, at the time, the northernmost parties on the Sacramento or its tributaries, making, then, from one to three ounces per day, though the richest superficial veins had been exhausted.  There were very few cradles or washers at work, nearly all being employed in scraping out the crannies and pockets of the rocks with spoons, and splitting the chinks with narrow picks and large knives.  It was a process new to me, but so simple, and involving so little labour, that I was soon at work amongst the busy throng.  The loose rocks and stones in the beds of the creeks were hard, and of different formation generally from the stratum forming the beds of the creeks, probably rolled down, in the process of time, by the action of the water, from the granite masses at the source of those rivulets.  Amongst them had been found, by the earlier visitants, innumerable large chunks and lumps, some perfectly pure, others largely amalgamated with the gold blossom, as the miners call the crystalised quartz.  Several large specimens were found during my sojourn, weighing from two to six ounces, and one as much as seven pounds, with a very insignificant amalgamation.  The bed was a sort of fleaky sandstone, in irregular strata, which, when struck with a sledge or hammer, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:opened into countless minute seams, joints, and fissures, into which the miner inserted the point of his knife, very rarely requiring the pick to prize them asunder, finding betwixt the laminae thin cakes of gold almost incorporated with the rock by the adhesion of cohesion, existing in greater or less quantities throughout the entire stratum, even to its lowest depth, evidently established there since its original formation, for no process, however subtle, could subsequently so insinuate it into the heart of a solid rock.</p><P>I have seen some miners go clean down through a very deep stratum, and find gold in large quantities below, which impressed me with the idea that the gold on the surface is but the crumbs of volcanism, and that the great deposits of the solid metal are deep in the bowels of the earth.  Many old miners were so firmly impressed with this conviction, that they resolved, in spring, when powder and proper implements could be procured from below, to sink deep shafts in select places, and give the experiment a fair trial.  I did not confine myself to one system or one locality, but had a turn at each, trying in the course of my rambles the soil in innumerable places and at various elevations, finding, I may say, gold, more or less, everywhere, in many instances exposed on the surface on lofty hills.  I also visited an extensive mining settlement to the westward, called "The Springs," or "Redding's Diggings," said to be very rich.  Here the miners had no streams or riverbeds for the seat of their operations, working in the various ravines and gulches, where the drainage of hills formed their several little streamlets.  Theirs was almost all dirt cleansing, and, from the results I saw, was highly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:lucrative; but the health of the miners was very bad, owing to the property of the water in the springs, which became more unwholesome as the season advanced, and the want of vegetables with their salt junk.</p><P>After having explored every nook and corner in this extensive neighbourhood, I was anxious to break fresh ground, and did not experience much difficulty in getting up a party for the purpose, as from the crowds that daily came flocking in the place became uncomfortably thronged.  A meeting was held at which the feasibility and practicability of getting beyond the Sacramento was discussed, where the creeks and gulches looked most invitingly towards us, when it was resolved that an exploring party, chosen at the time, should set out the day but one after, employing the following one in constructing a raft.  It was also determined not to confine their researches merely to the edge of the river, but to go back to the can&tilde;ons of the loftier ranges, which could be seen about thirty miles to the eastward.</p><P>Twenty men assembled on the morning of the appointed day, our mess contributing another and myself, but from the rapidity of the current, and the unwieldy piece of naval architecture on which we had to cross it, evening was close at hand when the last man jumped ashore, where white man never trod before; and this very circumstance gave an air of romance to the expedition, not without its peculiar stimulant.  As it was a pure matter of chance where we might strike water, particularly in the dark, we formed our camp for the night on a hill-side close by the river, and devoted the few hours we had to spare in trying the creeks close by, some of which we found very rich <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:indeed, and the remainder promising.  We started before sun up in the morning with very heavy packs, for in addition to our tools, provisions, and arms, we were obliged to carry a heavy blanket, as the nights now set in piercingly cold, notwithstanding the sultry and oppressive temperature of the days.  We shaped our course directly for the highest and most distant of the ridges in view, and had for several miles a most fatiguing march, either climbing, descending, or shouldering through thick tall brush, through which it was a matter of extreme difficulty to drag our heavy packs.  There were legions of game about, bear, deer, rabbit, and quail, but we did not shoot any, as we found our loads quite cumbrous enough without any addition.</p><P>About three o'clock we emerged into a more open country, entirely free of underwood, and presently came upon a verdant basin of clear land, where, from the richness of the grass and elasticity of the sod, we conjectured there must be water near, which we were all in great need of at the time.  We dug in a few of the most likely places without finding any, and were about making another trial, when a cheer from one of our comrades told us the treasure was discovered, in a little pool bearing all the marks and tokens of having been scratched out by a bear, holding very little over a pint, and replenishing so slowly that a long time elapsed before all were satisfied.  We then picked out the hole to about two feet in diameter, and left it to rise, in order to get a supply for our coffee, while we set about making a monster fire near at hand, the order of the watch being four to each guard, and two hour spells; for Mr. Myers, the most experienced Californian mountaineer, gave us special warning of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:treachery of the tribes of Digger Indians we were likely to meet, and we already aware that all Indians are particularly fierce on the first invasion of their territories.</p><P>The night set in clear, but bitingly cold, and about midnight it came on to blow a gale of wind for a couple of hours, which made our great fire bellow and roar, and vomit forth sheets of sparks, that ignited the dry bunch grass and surrounding withered boughs in many places, enabling us plainly to see the deer around them coming up in numbers to look at the novelty, gazing with distended orbs, and stamping the ground in puzzled bewilderment, the guard could have easily shot some, only that the report of fire-arms would start up the sleepers, imagining an Indian surprise.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: We were amove at early dawn, and found a more clear and level country to march through than that of yesterday; but Indian trails were becoming more numerous, and appeared as if in constant use; yet still no Indians showed themselves.  We moved forward cautiously and compactly, having agreed not to halt for refreshment until we gained the base of the mountains, and towards noon began drawing close to them, crossing several deep dells and close ravines, in which there were abundance of grapes and manzanita berries.  We pushed on till we reached the bosom of a steep glen, through which a clear but slender brook trickled, faintly babbling amongst the rocks--a sweet spot to rest in; but as we halted to unburden ourselves, six Indians were positively in the midst of us, no one being cognisant of their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:approach, so stealthily and noiselessly did they advance.  They were perfectly naked, only one carrying a bow and quiver.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1">It is a common stratagem in deer-hunting in America to go into their haunts of dark nights and light a bundle of fagots, the blaze of which attracts any within sight of the blaze, when they become an easy prey to the hunter.</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>If we followed Mr. Myers' advice, or yielded to our own first impulses, we would have driven them off; but they looked so mild and inoffensive we permitted them to remain.  They were rather below the middle stature, but strong, well-knit fellows, their faces daubed with a thick dark glossy substance like tar, in a line from the outside corners of the eyes to the ends of the mouth, and back from them to the hinge of the jawbone, looking at a distance like exaggerated whiskers; some also had their entire foreheads coated over.  We endeavoured to disabuse their minds of any hostile intent by signs and gestures, and little presents of bread and tobacco, neither of which they seemed to understand the use of.  In order to show them more plainly the object of our visit, we took them to the stream, going through the form of using our picks, shovels, and pans, and then showed them the gold we had in our purses; when they all laughed, exclaiming, "Booie, Booie, Booie," which it seems in their language signifies gold.  They made signs to us that it was to be had everywhere around, which was so far satisfactory that we brought them into camp, where we found Mr. Vyse, a Dutch gentleman of our party, in the act of cutting up a noble buck he shot a little up the glen, he proposed we should cook a regular trapper's feast, composed and made up of a dish called "Coney-cum-Quero" (derivation unknown), the <HI REND="italics">chefs de cuisine</HI>
054.sgm: on the occasion being two gentlemen that before had their fingers in a similar pie.</p><P>It is made by cutting off a large piece of flesh from a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:carcase, together with the skin, then paring away a good margin of the meat, so as to afford a selvage of hide that will lap over what remains in the centre, on which you can shake whatever seasoning you have, and then skewer or tie it up closely, placing it on hot embers or stones made red hot (which we did), when, if carefully tended, before the hide is burned through the meat is thoroughly done, juicy and savoury beyond conception, being stewed in its own peculiar gravy.  Ours was a regular duodecimo, as indeed it needed to be, from the number of our mess and foreign auxiliaries, being made up of the entire side of venison, from the vertebrae, round by the hips, flank, chest, and shoulder-blade.  While it was in process, we took off the keen edge of our appetites by roasting on the coals the scraps and pieces that were cut away in forming the selvage, all watching it with the most careful attention, until "cooked to a curiosity;" and whether it was the whim of a quizzing imagination or not I cannot tell, but I never before tasted a dish that so filled up every crevice of the mouth with an all-satisfying enjoyment, saturating the pleased palate with its succulent tenderness, and leaving such an agreeable after-taste, that one was almost loth to use aught else for fear of dispelling it.</p><P>I would advise M. Soyer to give it a place in the next edition of his book; and I hope I may not be deemed presumptuous in expecting that the great abdominal worshippers of the omniverous London corporation will present me with a handsome premium for adding a new idol to their creed in the shape of a "Coney-cum-Quero."  It is not necessary it should be made of venison, the flesh of any other animal whose hide is sufficiently tough to bear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the fire, would do as well; in fact, I think a fatter meat would suit better.</p><P>The Indians remained all night, and lit a second fire at a little distance, stretching themselves, mouth under, between both.  There was little doubt but they had a design in staying, for whenever the watchmen's tread ceased, and unbroken silence prevailed, they raised up their heads cautiously, looking round anxiously, but dropping again the moment they saw they were perceived, simulating sleep, which caused us to keep a close eye on them.  In the morning, as we continued to feed them, we determined on making them do something to earn their diet, by sending them to bring up water for the morning's use (which in their tongue is called "Bawlee"), and afterwards making them carry a moiety of our packs, which they did with great reluctance, from sheer laziness, being out and out, far and away, the most thoroughly lethargic set of beings, even of their own degraded tribe, I ever encountered.  Were it not so, here they could have shambles of meat for food, and skins to trade, after supplying themselves with raiment, which they appear to want, from the sensitive manner in which they bore the evening air.  Yet such is their inherent sloth, they are contented to remain entirely destitute of covering, living through the summer and autumn on crickets, berries, and roots, and in the winter and early spring on acorns, which they save, and dried spent salmon, which they catch without much trouble, spearing them in the shallow fords of streams flowing into the Sacramento.  Unlike most other Indians, they have nothing to trade or barter; neither are they, as far as I could see, expert bowmen; the only thing in which they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:attain a respectable mediocrity is swimming.  They are excessively jealous of their squaws, for whenever we headed towards any of their burrows, they sent a courier ahead to remove them all; and, as a cap to the climax of their forbidding qualities, they are stingy and inhospitable.  It is supposed to be a trait of Indian character, universal amongst the race, their hospitality to strangers when they chance to come amongst their wigwams, no matter how hostile soever their feelings and intentions might be under other circumstances; but amongst those wretches no such virtue seems to exist, for, on one occasion, in passing through their huts, I took a few from a heap of acorns, when the very savages to whom we were so kind, and fed so plentifully, commenced a pitiful whining howl until I restored them; the entire selfishness of which was enhanced by the fact that thousands of bushels of them covered the ground in every direction.</p><P>Their information about the gold was perfectly correct, for we found some, I may say, in every place we tried, but, except at our camp, had no water in the neighbourhood to give a full test to our experiments, as the rivulets, gulches, and ravines, were all dry.  We tried the dry-digging process; and on winnowing the sand, that we took from the cavities of rocks, in a rough manner, got, in most instances, a residue of gold, sometimes insignificant, at others considerable.  After examining all the auspicious-looking places on the western flank of the Sierra in this neighbourhood, we branched into a gloomy defile, with the intention of penetrating to the north-eastern side of the range; but, after advancing a few miles, it took a westerly slant, which we thought it prudent to follow, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:our stock of provision would not admit of too protracted an absence.</p><P>The country we had now to push our way through were groups of immense hills, covered to the tops with oak and fir, without brush, not so close as to impede our progress, but sufficiently umbrageous to shield us from the sun.  As we went along we tried every likely place we came across, and got some gold in all.  We soon turned into another and wider branch of the defile, bending more towards the south, hoping to strike the Sacramento and follow its course home, testing its bars and the stream flowing into it as we proceeded, and marched in an elongated string, as the trail, like all Indians trai ls, would not admit of more than one deep; but some of our party, beginning to lag under the weight of their packs, had tailed off considerably, of which those in advance were unconscious, until the distant report of a gun, followed by a holloa, brought us suddenly up; on hearing which, all simultaneously dropped their packs, leaving four to watch them, and hurried back, in double-quick, nearly a mile, when we espied several Indians on the heights watching our movements, which caused us to apprehend our comrades had been overwhelmed, murdered, and stripped.  We raised a lusty cheer to encourage them if in extremity, and hurried our pace to a run, until we came to the fork of the defile, where we saw our five absent men standing in a bunch, rifles in hand, and a horde of those savages in front of them, yelling and gesticulating; amongst whom were our right trusty henchmen, who levanted with the packs we constrained them to carry.  They were beyond bow, but within easy rifle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:shot; but when our reinforcement came up, they moved away further, and after a momentary pause, the chief, with a staff of about a score, showed a disposition to approach us in a pacific mood; a movement we repudiated, beckoning him off, and presenting at him, when he in turn beckoned us away, sputtering gibberish at the top of his voice; but a Mr. Davis put an end to his fierce oration by a double discharge of buck-shot, which made his royal highness and some of his aids skip most ungracefully, the whole body breaking away in fear and confusion</p><P>This occurrence counselled circumspection for the future, as there is no manner of doubt but that the murder of the five men would have ensued only for our return, for they not only tried some long-bow shots at them, but got others to ascend the heights at their back, from whence they had commenced hurling down logs and stones.  As we all came together again, and got into motion, we saw our enemies on the heights above in considerable force; and what we seriously apprehended they now began to put in practice, letting loose rocks and blocks of decaying timber, which plunged down the steep hill-sides with a force and velocity that required all our watchfulness and alertness to evade them, so that our progress was, I may say, arrested altogether.  They were not slow to perceive our jeopardy, and for once in their lives, at least, were industrious, for they worked with might and main, yelling and screaming as they set their projectiles in motion, getting bolder and bolder, as we could not well make an effort to dislodge them, we crept slowly on, the ridge of the hill declining rather quickly, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the inclination of its curve, too, bringing the savages within shooting distance, and as they crowded to a point close beneath which we were constrained to pass, we put forward four men, who carried rifles of the largest calibre, one of which, especially, owned by a Mr. Smith, was admitted to be the "great gun" of the diggings, he first elevated at the savage looking most like the generalissimo, who, curiously enough, seeing he was selected, advanced a few paces, with an air of contemptuous defiance, imagining himself perfectly secure; but Mr. Smith took his measure most accurately, sending his bullet into the centre of his chest, on which, making a frantic leap, he fell prostrate, producing a pause of stupefaction, during which the other three marksmen fired into the crowd, bringing two others down.  This kicked the balance of hesitation instantaneously, all of them bursting away for the summit of the ridge, over which we could discern their dark heads timidly peeping to see if we intended pursuit; but of this we had no idea, our object being, if possible, to get to the river before dark.</p><P>We were much nearer the Sacramento than we conceived, for in less than a mile, the trail descending rapidly almost all the time, we came square upon it, and directly on the opposite side discovered a very large settlement of Indians, who raised a demoniac yell as soon as they saw us; all their squaws at the same time running up a narrow gorge in the hills, carrying their pappooses.  On our side there was a scrap of beach, on which a vast number of miserable spent salmon of enormous size, split, were hung along on poles to dry in the sun, there being a better aspect and exposure than at their camp; and I believe it was the notion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:that we would carry a portion of them away that begot the tumult.  But we never touched them; and finding that the cliffs were too precipitous to allow of our following the river, we reascended the hills, as around our watchfires, at the base of such a steep, we could not expect to get over the night in peace or security.  A few miles further on we met a creek, where, in the cavity of a rock, we eked out as much water as sufficed for supper.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Find Gold in the Creek--Strange Excavation in its Bed--Determine on clearing it out--Our large Expectations--Our mode of Procedure--Immense Frogs and Land Turtle--Another new Dish, called "Omnium Gatherum"--Unexpected size of the Hole--Share Market--Anxiety increases as the Bottom is Approached--Wonderful Result--Food for Conjecture--Mining Incident--Continue our Search down the Creek--Indian Village near its Banks--Homeward-bound--First Rain of the Season--Raft Accident--Miraculous Escape--Raft-building by Torchlight--How it did Pour--Californian Rain--The Sacramento rises--Had the Wet Season set in so early?--Its Effects on our Comforts, our Clothes, our Food, our Weapons, and Implements--How we employed ourselves during the Spell--Novel Occupations--Ludicrous Success--Musical Amateur--Strange Musical Contest--Amphibious State--The Sacramento rises higher--The Rain ceases and the Sun reappears--Change of Scene and Employment--Piebald Appearance of the Camp--State of the Ground--All the Stock get Mired--How we Manage--The Miners at Work again.</p><P>In the morning we found gold in the bed of the creek all along as we proceeded, so we followed it down a considerable distance to a point, where, after receiving two respectable affluents and innumerable smaller streamlets (all dry then), it took a decided southerly course.  We tried the banks in many places, and several of the bars, in all of which we found abundant evidence that it would be a most remunerative stream to work on when the proper season came round.  In the course of our explorations we came to a rocky can&tilde;on, where the water tumbles over a fall of twelve or fifteen feet, at the bottom of which there was a large cavity in the rock, quite round at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:orifice, about eight feet in diameter, and four feet down to where there was moist gravel, the hole enlarging in dimensions as it descended.  Some expressed a great desire to clear it out, and one of the men finding over an ounce of fine dust in a crack on the lip of the rock from which, in the wet season, the torrent is discharged, all hands agreed on the experiment, indulging in golden anticipations of all sorts, many of the over-sanguine setting down the proportions at 1000 dollars, which would not, after all, appear exorbitant, considering the circumstances.</p><P>We put in two men with shovels to fill the pans, which were passed up by two others, and sent along a string of four above, from hand to hand, to a place where it was discharged, the empty pans returning by another line, coming up and down with the regularity of elevators in a corn-mill.  In a few hours we thus accumulated a large heap of gravel on the bank, but did not appear to make a deep impression on the hole, which bulged out in the sides like a pot.  Nevertheless, we worked unremittingly--albeit on empty stomachs, and nothing in prospect to appease the painful gnawings of the worm of appetite--as the presence of water on round stones and coarse gravel afforded us a guarantee that there was no chasm or aperture through which the gold could escape.  From the round stones and coarse gravel we came to a layer of coarse sand, in which, curious enough, were frequently sent up immense frogs, as large as young monkeys, and a description of land turtle, that, on the other hand, was of dwarfish proportions, all alive and kicking; the wonder being, that they could have existed under such a superincumbent weight as we removed, which of course was only to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:accounted for by the mysterious agency of the <HI REND="italics">genius loci</HI>
054.sgm:, who stationed them there to watch the golden treasure; for if the great dragon of Hesperides himself was only saddled with half the load, the celebrated fruit would not have so long cumbered its branches.  In the absence of all other nutriment, we became sudden converts to French cookery, calling into requisition the services of our Coney-cum-Quero artists, who invented an entirely new dish, characteristically christened "Omnium Gatherum," which I cannot, however, so confidently recommend to a generous and confiding public as their previous effort, being composed principally of bull-frogs and land turtle, thinly interspersed with the limbs of a few woodpeckers and one ground squirrel (a much nicer animal than a rat), stewed in the green water that we took from the hole in two of our largest wash-pans, without either pepper, or salt, or any other sauce or seasoning but keen, pungent hunger.</p><P>As we left off work at dusk, we took soundings with a pole, and found there were fully five feet yet to clean out; but the hole at this level took an inward curve, that would quickly diminish its capacity for holding; not so the "Omnium Gatherum," which found receptacles capacious enough, and, simple and unadorned as it was, would have all disappeared if we conceded to appetite; but we reserved a portion of this composite mess for breakfast, and were at work under the auspices of the morning star, as it was absolutely necessary we should reach home that evening.</p><P>Two feet more brought us to a finer, darker, and heavier sand, the usual concomitant of the precious dust, which sent up the mercury of expectation to such a pitch, that speculators freely offered from four hundred to five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:hundred dollars a share without effecting a purchase, and, circumscribed as the time was, a miniature system of the Bull and Bear system was got into operation, which hatched its small clutch of lame ducks with a rapidity in keeping with the vegetative and generative character of the country.  The game momentarily increased in interest as the bottom was approached; but the increasing depth necessitated us to put in a rude ladder to enable the work to proceed.  It was also deemed prudent to appoint experienced washers to test each pan, for the indications of the sand became now truly promising.  Silence reigned omnipotent, yet during the intervals of each shovel-stroke, although every one appeared to hold their breathing, there were smothered foreign ventriloquistic sounds, repeated with a rapid regularity, which at last brought me to listen, and discover that "the beating of our own hearts was all the sounds we heard."  The sun, too, came at this juncture to take a peep into the nearly empty hole; but the polished shovel returned no lurid flash to his bright ray, the predominant reflection being from the black sand, which, by the time the last panful was removed (sand et preterea nihil), had communicated quite a leaden tinge to our complexions; and then "we looked each other's faces round," but not a word of banter or regret as the men slowly and sadly came up from this great polished deceiver, each wondering, but unable to solve the miracle of the total absence of even a particle of the metal.  Wanting other diet, it supplied us amply with food for conjecture and surmise; but the most ingenious and sophisticated could not compose a feasible explanation why it was that the gold, which assuredly came in from above, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:and which we found in quantity below, being the heavier substance, should be scrupulously ejected, leaving stones, gravel, and even black sand, at the bottom.  All the natural and usual operations of cause and effect being at length exhausted, a metaphysical gentleman agreed with himself that preternatural spells must have been at work as well, and that, if the frogs could speak, "they would a tale unfold" that would suit as an appendix to the legends of Croker.<ANCHOR ID="n9-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1">While working on Rock Creek, the weather being so very hot, we always had by us a pan of drinking water, and close to it stood a tin cup, in which we put the particles of gold as we gathered them.  One morning, as we were at work, a thisty prospecter came by, who asked permission to take a drink, which being accorded him, he filled up the cup and quaffed off the costly draught, without either drinking our healths or leaving even the semblance of a sediment at the bottom.  I first suspected there was a little sleight-of-hand in the matter; but from the sincere compunction of the man, and the honest manner he pressed to replace the gold, I firmly believe he swallowed it;--a circumstance which caused us for the future not to rely implicitly, in such cases, on a saving slip, "inter poculum et labra."</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>We now shouldered our traps and went down the creek for at least a mile, finding prospects throughout calculated to console us somewhat for our morning's disappointment; and just when about diverging for home, we saw, further down on the banks of the creek, a large Indian village, of a more permanent character than I thought the Diggers could boast of, the huts being unusually well constructed for that tribe.  It was thickly inhabited; the red-skins, arrayed with their bows and arrows, ready as if for an encounter; but we moved off at right angles, marching steadily until we reached the Sacramento at our raft-moorings, about two hours before sundown, when we commenced shipping our first cargo, which consisted of four men with their packs, chosen by lot, as the fumographic attractions on the other side, the dislike of crossing (as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the last batches should) in the dark, and the indications of a coming change in the weather, made each anxious to be amongst the first.</p><P>It took over an hour to make the first trip to and fro, during which time the clouds began to gather and drop rain, the wind, too, sighing in ominous gusts.  I was in the second batch, and got well wet from the heavy rain before I landed, the wind still increasing in violence; and, unfortunately, as the third party were coming over (being now dark), by some bad management or other the raft parted, three clinging to one portion and one to the other.  A shout was instantly raised, lanterns and fagots lit, and the shore lined to see how succour could be brought to bear; but their fate appeared inevitable, as over the rapids they should go, where we were apprehensive they would loose their hold and be drowned; but as good luck would have it, that portion to which the three were attached went slick over, and was rounded to in an eddy that whirled it to the shore, not more than two hundred yards below; the other, taking a different shoot, straddled on a pointed rock, over which the intercepted current surged in a frothy foam.  There was a deep gut between the rock and the shore which cut off all personal aid, so that the only thing we could do was to shout encouragement to the poor fellow, urging him to try and work his log over the obstacle, telling him how his companions got safely on shore, and throwing lines, with weights attached to the ends, that he might lay hold of them; but he was almost altogether unconscious, from the dashing of the water; still holding, however, with the proverbial tenacity of a drowning man.  He remained in this fearful predicament nearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:a quarter of an hour, when we saw the log wabbling, as the current evidently rose a little, the rain falling in torrents all the time: another swing, and it broke afloat.  "Does he cling?" uttered a hundred mouths.  Yes! we could see his head in the torchlight as his log also whirled into the protective eddy; but life was nearly extinct; nor could we release his grasp without using actual violence, and for a long time after we carried him to the nearest tent he did not appear to resuscitate; however, we were overjoyed to see him at length give signs of returning animation; when, leaving him in charge of the only female in the community, we all proceeded up stream to construct a new raft to bring over the remainder, as the river began rising so rapidly, if deferred until morning rafting would be impracticable.  It was a truly novel and picturesque sight to see a file of blazing torches and fagots, and the dusky forms of the men at work with their gleaming axes and augurs of a dark stormy night, singing cheerfully, to keep up the spirits of those on the opposite shore.  Two first-rate large rafts were solidly constructed in an incredibly short space of time, capable of taking all over at a single trip each; so that, ere midnight, they were safely landed amidst their companions.</p><P>Oh, how it did pour! I never before saw such torrents.  The biggest tears of <HI REND="italics">ould</HI>
054.sgm: Ireland were but intermittent imitations --mere mizzle--compared with it, as it sluiced down, making the blazing logs "pale their ineffectual fires," until they fairly struck to the rival element.  It drummed upon the tents, spitting through the closest canvas, covering the upper blankets and the pendant clothing with a condensed vapour like hoar-frost; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:being unusually early for the regular seasonal spell, only the 30th October, we all crept into our damp beds, trusting that in its fury it would expend itself ere morning.  But morning came, and brought with it no cessation.  Down, down it flowed in perpendicular streamlets, as thick as an ordinary ramrod, puncturing the ground, which was not as yet mashed into mortar, as if the points of that instrument were inserted into it with mathematical precision. The select few who had stoves could alone make the "sparks fly upwards;" the remainder, with their waggoncovers, endeavouring to construct a species of hearth umbrella to shield them from the water.  Noon came, and still down it came, and up rose the Sacramento, turbid and turbulent, its rapid centre and quiescent edges sheeted out into the bush, forming quite a contrast.  You could see all hands digging deep channels round their tents, and carrying in limbs of timber and hurdles to elevate their couches from off the cold damp earth.  Every one was wet through, and everybody's bedclothes were so thoroughly saturated with damp, we turned in without divesting ourselves of our wet garments.</p><P>A second night, chilly and cheerless, converted us to the belief that the rainy season had arrived, and set us cogitating how we should employ ourselves duringits continuance.  The lighting of fires in the morning was quite a prolonged and doubtful experiment in the ash-pools--no longer pits--where the crackling wood was wont to revel.  We built them as close to our tent mouths as possible, prepared to suffer any inconvenience from the smoke for the faintest countervailing glow of heat; all insufficient, however, to dry our dripping clothes or bed covering.  Our knives, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:forks, spoons, tin dishes, and knightly implements, soon got coated over with rust; our fire-arms got woodbound; the provisions, too, suffering their quota.  The jerked beef got blue moulded, the flour caky, the sugar treacly, the tea relaxed, the coffee sodden, the powder lumpy, and the brandy <HI REND="italics">weakly</HI>
054.sgm:.  Even my fine watch, which I never before caught in a wayward mood, took it into its head to spend the season in a state of torpidity.  There was nothing now for it but either a thorough revision and repair of the wardrobe, or card playing, or drinking, or both, for there were no books in the concern, while damp paper was calculated to obscure the clearest ideas committed to it; nevertheless, the dull, trieste influences of the time were often chequered with a hearty laugh, resulting from the amusing bungles of the many unlicensed imitators of Crispin and Cabbage, who undertook to flourish the awl and the needle.  Boots were in the most urgent want of relief, as most of the crowd, to use a slang phrase, "were addicted to top-boots"--"case why, they got no bottoms;" worn on the principle which induced my countryman to walk in the mud under the canopy of a sedan-chair.  Coats, not being previously much used, did not stand in need of repair; but pantaloons became so grotesquely metamorphosed under the "stars and stripes" with which they were so liberally garnished, it required a strong effort of memory to recognise them.  One gentleman in particular, evidently of a retail education, not from any jocose freak, either, caused us an hour of merriment by freckling over his stern with those minute patches until it resembled a map of the Archipelago or Carribean Sea. You could see shirts, in the absence of either father or mother-o'-pearl <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:studs, ornamented with buttons that would be quite at home in the breast of a pea-jacket; and hats that curled up their broad brims under a crisping sun, driven into the slouching attitude; together with many other strange and curious contrasts too numerous to mention.</p><P>In the midst of those our multifarious avocations, one raw gushing evening our ears were brought to full cock by the laudable efforts of a gentleman who possessed a rheumatic key-bugle, that perhaps like its owner was suffering from the roughness of the journey or the climate, for his choicest strains were not of that "charming" quality calculated to "soothe the savage breast," maugre those of a Christian.  On the contrary, to travesty the phrase, they were "a discord of harsh sounds," which, as a friend of mine observed, would be certain death to any cow of advanced age in the <HI REND="italics">ould</HI>
054.sgm: country, where they understand music.  However, this painful solo was opportunely challenged by the appearance on the sod of a canine amateur, whose musical powers were so decidedly superior, that he silenced his opponent with a few of his quavers, and retired amidst torrents <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
054.sgm: applause.  The gentleman and the bugle subsequently made two other paralytic efforts to renew the contest, but old Pompey, who, for fear of such surprises, kept his organ at concert pitch, came promptly to the scratch, and effectually consummated his conquest.</p><P>There were some ugly broils arising out of gambling contentions, and disgusting exhibitions from over-deep potations; but, strange to say, no serious accident occurred, nor sickness supervened, even though I may say "we lived, and moved, and had our being" in water, or positive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:moisture, making us incline to the supposition that habitude endowed us with semiamphibious natures.  This state of things continued without a jot of abatement for nine whole days and nights; the river rising higher and higher, roaring in frantic fury, whirling, like straws on its surging bosom, huge logs and trees that it uprooted and snatched along in its headlong rage, its frenzied temperament madly ministered, too, by the innumerable torrents along its course vomiting in their foaming stimulants.  Rock, Middle, and Salt Creeks, now presented impassable barriers to any communication betwixt those encamped on either side, being so backed up by the monster current that they spread athwart the limited level, and compelled the whole settlement to pull up stakes and retreat up the hill-side.</p><P>On the morning of the tenth day we were all mightily gladdened and rejoiced at the reappearance of our old friend Sol, beaming effulgently, but somewhat moderated in his fierce temperament.  Presto!  now there was a magical change of scene, lolling listlessness giving place to bustle, tents were struck in a trice, everything laid bare, and everybody bustling as briskly as the slushy state of the ground would permit to give their spongy cloths and provisions the benefit of the change.  Blankets--white, red, blue, green, Mackinaw, and Mexican--were spread out in close contact on the slope with shaggy buffalo robes and sleek counterpanes, flanked with flannel, cotton, hickory, and Jersey shirts, of every tinge and colour; coats, fancy vests, and very unfanciable pants, in companionship with shreddy drawers, together with stockings, long and short, in a most porous condition, judiciously <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:interspersed, in every available vacancy, with green boots, flabby hats, collapsed carpet-bags, powder-flasks, shot pouches, and the various other hunting and defensive accoutrements dangling from the branches; provisions exposed and arms piled where no shade could reach or screen them; forming altogether a unique and variegated scene most curious to behold.</p><P>This done, we went to look after our cattle, which were not seen since the storm commenced; but it proved rather more of a task than any of us anticipated, for at every step, unless the foot was planted on the point of a rock or log, you sank right down to the knee, frequently further, even on the slopes the earth being almost in a liquid state, with barely enough of adhesive consistence to prevent its running in a stream.  I could not imagine such a state of things had I not witnessed it.  When we reached the cattle, we found them, without an exception, mired down to their bellies, unable to budge; some few were dead, and some mules and horses greatly lacerated in their wild endeavours to extricate themselves; the oxen were more passive, but nearly starved to death, while it was utterly impossible to liberate them until the wet drained off and the ground became firm.  The only mode of meeting the emergency was to gather provender and strew it within their reach, which was not a labour of exceeding trouble, as acorns were overabundant, and they all had become accustomed to use them.  Thus we ministered to them for a few days, until we were able to extricate those that were unable to relieve themselves.</p><P>Each mess now went to work with their rockers in the different gulches and in select places along the creek's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:banks, washing the dirt, and getting well paid for their trouble, averaging fully two ounces per man.  But the soil was too wet to work to the best advantage, being almost in a state that masons call grout, the heavy metallic particles sinking to the flag or rock as it became disturbed in digging, and escaping the shovels in the crevices and inequalities, whereas, in a drier state, they would be taken up with earth and separated in the process.  Some that took the pains of scooping and scraping up the mud from those inequalities with large spoons were amply requited, and many made good wages by following the creek and gulch courses, picking up particles on the margin from which the water had receded, and gathering bits of considerable size that protruded from the bank edges, where flakes of earth broke off by the undermining of the torrents.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>More Rain--Digging ceases--The Damp and Chills are attended with Sickness--Doctors and their Charges--Addition to our Mess--Commence Digging out a Canoe--The Agreeabilities of our New Associate--How we hewed, and joked, and promoted Health--Perforated state of the Bark--Studded with Acorns--How caused--Foresight of the Woodpecker--Their Ingenuity and Discrimination--Finish our Craft--Weather clears up--Transport our Goods and Chattels over the River--Miners' Theory--Our Cloak--Miners' Practices--Their Perseverance--We blink them a Good While--The Hunt at Last--Our Seclusion Invaded--What we previously averaged--Hours of Work--Appearance of the Mines--Geological Puzzle--Capital and Machinery required to develop the Wealth of California--Fruitless Search for a Scientific Traveller--Winter sets in--Hunt for new Diggings--Our old Gulch re-enriched--Fresh Irruptions--Make a Party to Visit the Maiden Creek--Find the Water too high--Indian Visits and Thievery--Give some of them condign Punishment--A slight Brush--Our comfortless and insecure Situation--Return to Home Quarters--Diabolical Murder--Perpetrated by Indians--Enrolment of a Volunteer Party to Punish them--The Regions of the Expedition--Position and Number of our Adversaries--The Battle--The Result--Onerous Task of getting home our Wounded Man--Boisterous Night--Both Freeman and Coyle die.</p><P>THIS state of affairs kept the miners in buoyant spirits; but they were soon damped again, for, at the end of three days, heavy, humid clouds kept floating overhead, accompanied with sharp squalls and smart showers, which, towards evening, settled down into a thick mizzly mist, of a most dampening and penetrating character, continuing for five nights and days, occasionally changing into wetting rain as a brisk breeze blew up, which rendered the soil wholly unfit for digging, and begat a raw chill <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:atmosphere that began to ex hibit its effects in short ague fits, rheumatism, stiff swollen joints, and scurvy.  My ankle, which got maimed in the buffalo chase on the Platte, gave me considerable annoyance, both from pain and enlargement; but I prescribed for myself, as the medical tariff all over the mines made a patient shudder more sensitively than the most nauseating tinctures or painful operation: one ounce a visit was the fixed charge, the simplest dose costing one dollar, and anything of a compound quality a quarter of an ounce.  Yet, notwithstanding those rates, some got so nervous in their ailments, and anticipated such golden harvests throughout the coming year, that they paid them without a murmur.</p><P>As one might as well be outside as under a tent where everything was dripping with damp, our mess, which was enlarged by the admission of two gentlemen, who, from the first, were camped close beside us, concluded we would employ ourselves in digging out a canoe, for having resolved on crossing the river at the earliest opportunity, we were determined on having some more safe and expeditious mode of navigation than rafting.  We accordingly selected a noble fir-tree, out of which we got a superb log, thirty feet long, and fifty-four inches in girt, free of bark, on which we set to work in rough-shaping our craft, under the direction of one of our new associates--a seafaring gentleman of great experience, whose natural cleverness, vivacity, and varied information, constituted him a most cheerful and delightful companion, more particularly under circumstances where any agreeable social attribute was sure to be liberally appreciated.  None of us were expert choppers, but the best were placed at the points <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:where the most delicate strokes were required, and as we kept hacking and hewing away in the perpetual mizzle, joking, singing, and quickening the circulation, we felt all the better for the exercise, in health, appetite, and spirits.</p><P>In stripping off the bark I observed it perforated with holes larger than those which a musket-bullet would make, spaced with most accurate precision, as if bored under the guidance of a rule and compass, and many of them filled most neatly with acorns.  Earlier in the season I remarked the holes in mostly all the softer timber, but imagining they were caused by wood insects, I did not stop to examine or inquire; but now, finding them studded with acorns firmly fixed in, which I knew could not have been driven there by the wind, I sought for an explanation, which was practically given me by Captain S--'s pointing out a flock of woodpeckers busily and noisily employed in the provident task of securing their winter's provisions, for it appears that that sagacious bird is not all the time thriftlessly engaged in "tapping the hollow beech-tree" for the mere idle purpose of empty sound, but spends its summer season in pecking those holes, in which it lays in its store of food for the winter, where the elements can neither affect or place it beyond their reach, and it is considered a sure omen that the snowy period is approaching when those birds commence stowing away their acorns, which otherwise might be covered by its fall.  I frequently paused from my chopping to watch them in my neighbourhood with the acorns in their bills, half clawing, half flying, round the tree, and admired the adroitness with which they tried it at different holes until they found one of its exact calibre; when, inserting the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:pointed end, they tapped it home most artistically with their beaks, and flew down for another.  But their natural instinct is even more remarkable in the choice of the nuts, which you will invariably find sound; whereas it is a matter of impossibility, in selecting them for roasting, to pick up a batch that will not have half of them unfit for use, the most safe and polished-looking very frequently containing a large grub generated within.  Even the wily Indian, with all his craft and experience, is unable to arrive at anything like an unerring selection; while in a large bagful that we took from the bark of our log there was not one containing even the slightest germ of decay.  They never encroach on their packed store until all on the surface are covered, when they resort to those in the bark, and peck them of their contents without removing the shell from the holes.</p><P>Four days sufficed to finish our craft, about which time the weather began again to improve, a brilliant sun favouring us on the day of the launch, which was not a very laborious affair, for, being cleanly scooped out, she was as light as so much bark, and we were highly delighted to find, on placing her in her future element, that she floated evenly and buoyantly, and was easily impelled at a very rapid rate.  We spent the remainder of the day in transporting our traps, provisions, &amp;c., across the river, which was more hazardous than we opined, as the current was alarmingly rapid, and our little barque not altogether so much to our taste when reeling under a smart cargo; however, we got over everything safe before dark, and, ere noon next day, had our tents erected on a nice knoll, in good shelter, with wood convenient, and a clear brook <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:flowing within ten yards of us.  There was another one coming down the same slope of much larger dimensions, where we commenced our operations; but it was poor in its deposits, which was not considered strange as running from the westward, for all the old hands insist that no creeks or streams are worth working save those that flow either to the north or south; many experienced Georgian and Wisconsin miners affirming that such is the case in the mines they were in the habit of working, where all the rich leads or veins point north and south, or nearly so.  This, if it be the case, may have been influenced by the same natural laws that regulate the vast chains of mountains all over the continent, which uniformly tend in those directions, and may have produced similar results in the greater and deeper seams of gold that I am satisfied exist in California; but that it could effect the disintegrated particles which are abandoned to the caprice of the mountains' thaws, and coerce them into parallel currents, is a doctrine too large for my belief, even though asseverated on authority.</p><P>However, we began our drains and excavations on an ostentatious scale on this unpropitious site, intending it to serve as a cover, should we find a better (of which I got a tolerable inkling when last over), as we were well aware that every Sunday we would be visited by our old neighbours, as well from feelings of friendship, <HI REND="italics">perhaps</HI>
054.sgm:, as to find out if we had discovered a better place than their own, when they would not fail to give us the charms of their society, for no mess can shift quarters, either by stealth or otherwise, that they are not thus visited or traced; if by stealth, the moment they are missed a party <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:is chosen of the men most gifted in that species of chase to hunt their trail, who pack provisions and necessaries, setting about it in a most deliberate manner, and are rarely ever foiled--in fact, never returning until they run into their prey, ascertaining the motives of their change, and the results of the movement.  I met many of those parties in my rambles, and was often highly amused, where from the nature of the ground the trail would be imperceptible, to see them take a cast like hounds at fault, prying around in a stopped attitude as if bringing in the aid of the olfactory nerves, until one gave tongue, when they all would hark in, and run it breast high again.</p><P>Our plan, however, blinked them for a good while, during which we went to work to our rich gulch every day, about a mile distant, working very profitably too, and when any of them came over to test our location by washing a few panfuls out of that at our door, they not only gave up any idea of joining us, but expressed their astonishment that we should be so misspending our time as to persevere in working there.  But a little time, and the "cat got out of the bag," as it was but too perceptible that our home mines remained in <HI REND="italics">statu quo</HI>
054.sgm:; so that it was supposed, from the ingenious device, we found out a regular gold quarry.  Then commenced the preparations for the hunt, a hurried digging out of canoes, as they could not expect ours (freely given for visiting intercourse) to aid in bringing to light our little mint; but, once started, the sport did not last long; as the hounds were so numerous, and the cover so small, they soon brought the game to view.  Within two days afterwards the entire course of the gulch was one continuous file of men, picking and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:rocking away, converting our secluded, silent, golden retreat into a profane and tumultuous thoroughfare.  So long as we were uninterrupted, we generally washed out from fifteen to eighteen ounces a-day, confining our operations entirely to the bed and edges of the stream.  The gold was of the purest quality, for the most part in nice sized particles; those of a larger size being always streaked with quartz veins, which, in the hands of jewellers (as I afterwards saw them in Francisco), could be shaped and polished into handsome rings, brooches, and ladies' ornaments.  This, it must be admitted, was a very good yield, when it is taken into consideration that, from the cold sharpness of the mornings and evenings, we could not commence washing before ten o'clock, and were obliged to give over at two o'clock, or a little after.</p><P>Our new neighbours came across and returned in their canoes every morning and evening, and widened the harvest-field by excavating the banks, most generally with complete success.  But the weather, taking a dry and frosty turn for a few days, the slender stream was completely intercepted, and, as a matter of necessity, the whole character of our proceedings changed into dry-digging operations; and not unprofitably either, for, both in the deep crevices and imbedded in the rock, we found the metal in greater quantity, and much larger particles.  Like at Salt Creek, it was quite in the heart of the rock, where it must have abided since the original formation, as the rock was sound to the core, and free on the surface from the slightest flaw or fissure through which the gold, even in a molten state, could have gained insertion; the gold fitting its bed with the accuracy of the nicest specimen of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:inlaying, but in no instance showing that affinity for the rock that it exhibits with regard to quartz, convincing me, as I have before observed, that the surface-scratchings, although their aggregate amount is enormous, are but as the shedding of the grain; and while leaving me still a hesitating sceptic as to its origin and mode of distribution, confirming me in the creed that the great mineral wealth of California is seated deep in the bowels of the earth, only to be developed by associated companies possessed of large capital, who can afford sinking deep shafts and applying mechanical contrivances in removing the unprofitable soil, and keeping under the subterranean drainage.</p><P>I often inquired in my rambles, and eagerly sought for some zealous member of the British Association, or equally learned savan, to enlighten me on the subject of this geological puzzle, but never was fortunate enough to stagger across one.  If any of such a class did come out to dive into and lay bare the bosom of nature, cupidity must have vanquished their yearnings for immortality, transforming the divine philosopher into the mundane mammon-hunter.</p><P>The weather now took a decided winter change; tremendous showers of sleet and frequent heavy falls of dry snow occurring, which precluded the possibility of work, confining our opposite neighbours to their own quarters.  But I must do them the justice to say, they improved their opportunity most industriously, as, to all appearances, they swept the gulch clear of its rich contents, constraining us to cast about to find another favoured one, to keep us employed until we could make up a party to go back into the interior, to the creek we discovered when exploring.  We met many rivulets with promising indications, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:none that would bear comparison with the other.  However, before making a selection which we should work, one day, as symptoms of returning fine weather began to manifest themselves, a soft rain succeeding the sleet, the snow melting from off the slopes and hill-sides, a member of our mess, impelled by such commendable feelings as would prompt one to visit an old friend who once upon a time had rendered him a substantial service, before leaving his neighbourhood took a stroll over to the favourite gulch to see how it was affected by the weather, when, to his extreme surprise and delight, he saw through its clear waters the bed freckled afresh with golden deposits; upon which he hastened back with the pleasing tidings; and the day but one after, the water had so far subsided as to allow of our working on our old haunt, with fully our original success, the new treasure having been washed down from the surrounding hills by the melting of the snow; but the folk over the way, in coming back for some of their implements, were also made aware of this rather marvellous state of things, and commenced again their diurnal incursions, until the premises were a second time cleared out.</p><P>We now began to arrange definitely for sending a detachment, in conjunction with others, back to the maiden creek, christened, from its richness, "Gold Creek," as an entire transference of our camp-equipage, provisions, &amp;c., &amp;c., would be clearly impossible, even if we had animals, from the deep state of the ground.  Things were soon in train, and a party of fifteen set out on a sadly unpropitious morning, with cold sleet driving in our teeth, but we went at it head to wind, carrying immense packs, three of our mess being of the party.  The march was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:very harassing one, occupying two days; and, to add to our chagrin and disappointment, the waters of the creek were so high that all the banks and bars were flooded beyond the possibility of working them, leaving the field of our labours confined to the little steep gulches running into it, none of which were what might be termed rich in comparison; the weather, moreover, continuing so cold and inclement we could not get more than two hours out of any day for work--even those, such as none but gold-diggers would care to turn out in; and, as if to crown our sufferings and anxieties, we were visited by the Indians, first in a friendly guise; but they soon convinced us they had other designs in view, as our axes, knives, and other articles became suspiciously scarce.</p><P>By a little vigilance two of the delinquents were caught " in flagrante delicto," and with a view of checking or abolishing the practice, we seized and tied them up, giving them a right good hiding, under which they howled and cried most lustily.  One then was liberated, to whom we made known by signs that the other would be detained, and flogged every day until the several stolen articles were restored, and that; unless this was done within " two suns," we would shoot him.  The liberated convict returned rather more promptly than we expected; but instead of being a bearer of the missing goods, he was accompanied with a large band of savages, all armed with bows and arrows, who, by their menacing gestures and loud talk, indicated they came with the intention of releasing the captive, and avenging his and his companion's injuries.  As they seemed resolved on coming into close quarters, when we would not have a shadow of a chance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:we tried a discharge of buck-shot against their shins, which produced a highly saltatory and salutary effect--such a one precisely as we desired, for they retired in double-quick time, discharging obliquely in their retreat a flight of arrows, none of which took effect; but as we did not follow up the fire, they took courage, and halted on a rise about five hundred yards off, from which they kept yelling and gesticulating at a furious rate.  The prisoner, when he saw them retiring without effecting his liberation, set up such an infernal howling we were only too glad to liberate him, giving him a sort of postscript that contained the pith and essence of our feelings.</p><P>Well acquainted with their vengeful disposition, we put on an extra guard that night, who could plainly observe the dusky forms of our enemies prowling round in the gloomy shadows of the contiguous trees; but as they saw we were on the alert they did not trouble us.  From this we foresaw there would be an absolute necessity for a constant nightly watch, and, as this was most harassing to men faring badly, with insufficient clothing, with our provisions, too, nearly exhausted, the weather inclement, and the gold not over-abundant, together with divers and sundry other persuasive reasons, we commenced our retreat--I should, perhaps, have said, our return to the camp at head-quarters--on the following day, the trail being so affected by the constant wet weather, that it was far advanced in the second night before we got to our destination.</p><P>Two mornings after our return Captain S--r went to the door of his tent, from which there was a good view across the river to the mouth of Rock Creek, where a fine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:old gentleman named Colville, together with his son, a most promising young man, and a respectable Swede named Mansfeldt, had been camped by themselves about a mile from the main settlement, when he immediately remarked that their tent was not observable as heretofore, although there was light in it late the previous night.  He called us all to look; but no one could discover any trace of it, nor could we frame a conjecture as to the cause of its sudden disappearance.  Feeling some sad misgivings, and having a high esteem for the party, three of us paddled over, and on coming to the site of the tent saw that it was assuredly removed in haste, some slight marks of blood being apparent; but the rain had so effaced them it was difficult to determine, and the space immediately about was in such a puddle it retained no marks of any sort.  However, on extending the sphere of our searches, we found at a little distance the iron portion of a pick, with blood and light hair on its point the colour of the Swede's, while further on there was something resembling clotted brains, together with a crowd of Indian footprints, amongst which was one of immense magnitude.</p><P>It was now clear a foul and bloody deed had been perpetrated, so we made an active and anxious search, tracing down the footmarks to the river edge, where it was evident they crossed; and a little below, to our great horror and dismay, we discovered the leg of a corpse sticking out of the water in a bunch of willows, which, on being taken out, proved to be that of young Colville, most shockingly mutilated; the head battered to a mummy, seven large knife wounds on the back, and two in the abdomen.  There was not any trace of the others, but we conjectured that all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:must have been thrown into the river after the murder, some eddy of which brought one body to the shore.  We immediately assembled the people in the encampment to hold a sort of general inquest into all the circumstances and appearances connected with the deplorable affair, at which but one opinion prevailed as to who were the perpetrators of the slaughter.  A rude coffin was next made and the remains interred; and then a consultation was held as to what course should be pursued with regard to the Indians, who, from the footprints on the side where the body was found and those on the opposite shore, most assuredly came from the eastern side of the river; instigated, we sadly concurred in thinking, by feelings of revenge for our late chastisement of them, and the shooting of those who attacked the party of exploration.</p><P>It was unanimously agreed that a party should be enrolled forthwith to proceed to their village, and by inflicting summary punishment teach them a lesson that would deter them from again attempting a deed of such bloody treachery.  Fifty-two gave down their names for muster and march next morning, but only twenty-seven came to roll call, alleging as their excuse the state of the day, which was certainly awful; but as the prompt retribution would enhance the effect of our vengeance, we set out, nothing daunted, either by the fierceness of the weather or the defalcation in our forces; having arranged our packs on as light a scale as we could safely or prudently venture with, taking only a single blanket each, and four days' provisions measured scant, in order that our movements might be as little hampered as possible with incumbrances.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>By great exertions we reached within about a mile of their village the night of the second day, which was piercingly cold; but rather than forewarn them of our proximity, it was agreed to forego the comfort and advantages of a fire, supping, and breakfasting next morning on bread, water, and raw bacon.  We thus managed to get within view of the enemy's quarters a little after sun up, which, as I before partly described them, were on an elbow of land, formed by a bend of the creek, that was now so swollen and swift as to leave them very poor chances of retreat, rendering a stubborn fight inevitable.  Their men, as we calculated from the number of huts, must have been close upon 200--a very large disproportion to our small band; and what rendered our position more serious, was the fact that, if at any juncture in the affair we slackened, paused, or exhibited the slightest symptom of weakness or repulse, our doom would be sealed; for, hemmed in as they were, they would certainly rush in and overwhelm us; but our mission, we one and all agreed, should be accomplished, as far as in us lay, even should annihilation be the consequence.</p><P>We were observed before we came within rifle range, and a wild whoop simultaneously emptied the wigwams of all their male inhabitants, who, with their bows in their hands, were hurriedly slinging on their quivers.  We could hear a humming noise of earnest conversation, as if they were advising with each other how to act; during which they often anxiously pointed to the huts, as if in doubt what course to adopt with regard to their squaws and children, whose only mode of escape would be across the creek, where the flood at the time would test the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:powers of the best swimmer.  In the centre of the horde was discernible a savage of overtopping stature, who we set down as the one that left the large footmarks at the scene of the murder.  We continued to advance slowly but steadily, under a blinding sleet shower, and as we raised our arms to the word " Ready," they discharged a full flight of arrows, which, however, either fell short or reached us so languidly, that they were easily dodged, as, indeed, most of them can, if well watched, after sixty or seventy yards.  Immediately after the discharge, the big Indian rushed to the front, changing the bow into the left hand, and brandishing a tomahawk in the other as if to head a charge; but a discharge of nine rifles, with deadly effect, checked them as they were in the act of bounding to his call.<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: We still continued closing and reloading, and were met with a second discharge of arrows, the big Indian and a large group following their flight, bent upon coming to close quarters, and approaching with hellish yells within short pistol range; when they received a volley of balls and buck-shot from the other eighteen guns, that stunned, staggered, and turned their advance.  Once turned, the flight became general and tumultuous, all rushing back amongst the wigwams, and many plunging into the stream, followed by women holding little children in their arms, who were soon swallowed in its curling eddies.  We fired a few more shots into their bark tenements, and, from the howls that followed, I should say with fatal results; but deeming that our measure of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:retribution was amply filled, we ceased firing, and retired in a cool deliberate manner, after having counted twenty-three bodies on the ground.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">Our arrangement was to fire by sections of nine, thus making three of the whole.  There were two double-shot guns assigned to each section, and unless under necessitous constraint a second section was not to fire until the first reloaded--the third never; our ammunition being made into cartridges for despatch.</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>It was only then it became generally known that two of our men, William Freeman and Thomas Coyle, had been wounded, the former in the arm through the biceps, the other in the thigh a little below the groin.  There was an artery severed in Freeman's case, and the bleeding was so profuse as to produce syncope, notwithstanding all our efforts to stanch it, even with the aid of a tourniquet; leaving us in an anxious state of suspense as to whether we would be able to get him alive to the settlement, where surgical aid, such as it was, could be obtained; indeed, it was a great oversight in the expedition to set out without a surgeon, where there was every reason to anticipate the want of his services, there being, too, so liberal a sprinkling of that profession in our community.</p><P>We constructed a sleigh of stout branches and brush, on which we placed Freeman, every man giving up his blanket to make him as comfortable as possible.  We made traces and breast-straps of vine tendrils, by means of which six at a time attached themselves to the rude vehicle: it was a most fatiguing undertaking, and slow almost to total discouragement, while it sleeted and stormed without mercy.  Never shall I forget the wretched night we passed; without any fire, and all our covering around the poor sufferer; without the slightest shelter either, as the heavy dripping from the trees drove us for choice into the open space, with uncooked food and short commons for our fare.  The pipe and cigar, which were ignited with difficulty, seemed to afford the only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:resource or comfort, and, for the first time in my life, I made an abortive attempt to smoke.  The raw, penetrating sleet all but stopped the circulation as we stood knee deep in the mud huddled around the sleigh, to see and concentrate a glow of animal heat around the wounded man; but long before the approach of day we became so wofully benumbed, it was physically unbearable; so we determined on getting into motion, taking chance for the trail, in order, by exertion and exercise, to counteract the paralysing effects of the cold, three of the most active amongst us going forward to the camp for help and provisions, who sent out a relief corps that found us halted, early in the day, from sheer inability to drag the sleigh any further, in consequence of our exhaustion, arising principally from want of food and clothing.  We were enabled to light a fire this evening, the rain and sleet having ceased, and were also cheered with warm coffee, or brandy for those who preferred it, which revived poor Freeman, who was at a very low ebb; but he did not survive many days after he reached home, mortification having set in, and soon putting an end to his sufferings.  Coyle, too, who foolishly persisted in taking part in the sleigh drawing, found his wound inflamed violently, and, a bad fever setting in at the same time, he was carried off; so that, after all, our victory was rather dearly earned.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Change back our Quarters amongst the Crowd--Excitement caused by the Regrators--State of the Food Market--Arrival of a Whale-boat with Provisions--Decline of Prices--Sickness on the increase--Its Cause and Character--Doctors abundant--Simplicity of their Laboratories--Obstinacy of Ailments--Novel Deputation--Banishment of the Quacks--Simple and gratuitous Remedies were successful--December Weather--Christmas-day and its Reminiscences--Christmas Fare--Division of Labour--Christmas Morning--Observance of the Day in the Middle Creek Diggings--Devotional Feelings--Our Dinner-table--Get a Present of a fine Dog--Evening Assembly--Arrangements for the Future--Start again for Gold Creek--Richness of the Diggings there--Change of Weather--Indian Attack--Provisions run low--Continued bad Weather--Indian Tradition about the Weather--A Party start for Head-quarters--Stopped by the unusual Height of the Sacramento--Without Food or Night covering--Torturing Reflections--Dreadful Sufferings--Day-dreams of Home, Friends, and Happiness--Pangs of Despair--Revolting Proposition--My tearful Assent--Wonderful Instinct of the poor Dog--State of my Feelings--His melancholy Fate--Flood Subsides--Weather improves--Our Release--Returnof the Remainder.</p><P>THE day after we got Freeman to his quarters we recrossed the river with our camp-equipage to join the crowd, as we felt we could not retire to repose with any sense of security in open war with the savage tribes, with our number so small and our position so isolated, while we derived no peculiar advantage by being camped on the east side of the river, in a perpetual state of apprehension, when, like the other miners, we could cross over to work, and return again every evening.  On our arrival at the main camp, or city, as some jocularly called it, we found the inhabitants in a great state of excitement, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:threatened to eventuate in a violent commotion, owing to the avaricious and unconscionable conduct of the few parties that kept stores in those diggins, who, taking advantage of the state of the roads and rivers, which precluded the possibility of fresh supplies coming forward for a lapse of time as they conceived, as if with one accord, acting, as I believe, in concert, jumped up flour from 50 cents per pound to 1 dol. 50 cents; pork, from 40 cents to 1 dollar 25 cents; beans, coffee, sugar, mackerel, and all other indispensable necessaries in the same proportion, together with boots, which were in great demand, for which they charged two ounces for the commonest pegged manufacture.  Had the advance been gradual, appearing to keep pace with a diminishing stock, it would have been patiently borne with, but the sudden and unreasonable rise was so transparent a piece of extortion, it created a feeling which it required all the remonstrance and dissuasions of the cool heads to allay; while, curious enough, about a fortnight afterwards, the same violent parties bore without a murmur a further advance of just 100 per cent, raising flour to the famine rate of 2 dols. 50 cents per pound--a state of prices that not only absorbed all the daily earnings, but trenched deeply on the reserve-fund of the miners.  However, they were unexpectedly relieved from this ruinous tariff by the arrival of a whale-boat laden with provisions, she worked up within a mile of the settlement, which was eighty miles higher up the stream than any craft had before penetrated.  Prices now tumbled to one dollar for flour, all other articles participating in the decline, not so much from the addition to the stock brought in the boat, but from the fear that other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:similar cargoes would be constantly coming forward; and although none did actually arrive, prices continued at the same reasonable level until a change of weather rendered the waggon-track practicable for light loads, when more than sufficient for six months' consumption came to hand, reducing prices full fifty per cent. lower, at which standard they remained while I continued in the diggings.</p><P>We found, also, that sickness prevailed to an alarming extent, particularly land scurvy, owing to the constant use of salt and greasy provisions without vegetables.  In many instances it assumed a fearfully loathsome shape, swelling the limbs to an enormous bulk, changing the skin to a deep purple hue, contracting the muscles and main tendons of the legs and arms, so that those members were rigid and useless; enlarging the gums immensely, and imparting to them a gangrenous appearance, not only disgusting to look at, but highly offensive to smell.  There was also rheumatism, simple and acute, sciatica, fever, and ague, and several cases of pulmonary ailments, that generally ended fatally, all owing, I suppose, to the severity of the season, and especially to sleeping in damp clothes on the cold wet ground.</p><P>But if sickness was rife, doctors were abundant; that is, a class of men who eschewed digging and roamed about, carrying a pair of saddle-bags, one side containing a select assortment of cutlery adapted either for trade or surgical uses, the other stored with a "beggarly array" of little boxes and flint vials, not stuffed with any perplexing variety of drugs, but almost invariably confined to calomel, castoroil, and blue mass, which were administered in every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:ailment, skilfully alternated, and judiciously prescribed with regard to the hours of repetition--as to which they were stern and emphatic in their injunctions.  I regret, however, to say, that neither the professional skill of this erudite fraternity, nor the virtue of their prescriptions, inspired their patients with either confidence or satisfaction; for it came to be remarked by comparison, that Nature was more successful than Art, and a series of scientific misfortunes having occurred close on the heels of each other, an impromptu deputation of the real democratic order was formed, and proceeded on a round of visits to those disciples of Galen, to indulge their curiosity in inspecting their diplomas, which invaluable documents, they said, they could not think of exposing to the vicissitudes of travel, having left them for security in the States, whither the deputation politely directed them to return for them forthwith; in simple fact, this host of impostors and empirics were a lot of fellows too lazy to work; and, from the high scale of medical remuneration, deeming it the easiest and most lucrative mode of employing their time, with the versatility characteristic of the American nation, where it is an every-day occurrence to see the blacksmith of yesterday transmuted on the morrow into the professor of some polite school of science or literature, they adopted the medical profession, "making the food they fed on," as they advanced in their practice, until, as in the Middle Creek diggings, things came to a crisis, and they were summarily expelled.  On their disappearance, an old mountaineer stepped into the gap, whose simple remedies, administered without fee or reward, brought about very beneficial and salutary results, his doctrine being a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:regimen devoid as much as possible of salt, grease, or sugar, and moderate in quantity.  He interdicted the use of tea or coffee, allowing in their stead a decoction of sassefras and the leaves of the spruce, or (as it is there called) the hemlock-tree, which made very palatable substitutes, and proved their sanitary efficacy in scurvy in every instance where they were regularly used.</p><P>It was on the 21st of December we recrossed the river, favoured with a fine day for our task; the weather in its change looking as if it took a deliberate turn, not a rapid transition, as on former occasions, a genial mildness pervading the shade as well as the sunshine, which was not of that glary character so little to be relied on, but of a mellow ruddy hue, producing comfort without inconvenience, tempering the air with a salubrious mildness, so that even the most enfeebled invalid could not complain the winds of heaven "visited him too roughly."  The grass and herbage began to sprout and peer up from the soil under its vegetating influence, and by Christmas morning this state of atmosphere seemed so completely confirmed and established, we all gave way to the hope that the unusually early winter had passed away to give place to a very early spring.</p><P>I was truly delighted to find that the miners, without an exception, had come to the resolution of observing the great Christian festival, which was now close at hand, if not with a devotional reverence, at least by an abstinence from all labour on that day, which, from earliest childhood at home, we are taught to look forward to with a rapturous eagerness, and hail with a pious pleasure a pure, tranquil delight, that day so fraught with family hospitality, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:when benignity and brotherly love, so truly emblematic of it, pervade every breast; when feuds, jealousies, and misunderstandings fade and vanish before the sublimating spirit of kindliness and sanctification; that holy occasion, commemorative of the divine mission to earth, undertaken to establish unity of worship, and promote, by glorious example, "peace and good will amongst men."</p><P>Our joint mess, in accordance with the custom in the old country, had agreed upon the additional recognition, so generally in vogue there, of amending and enlarging our bill of fare to the full limits that our circumscribed markets would admit of; with which view we secured a loin of grizly bear meat, some six scattered bottles of wine, and two pounds of raisins, which, together with the contents of our own larder and cellar, furnished us such a dinner as dwellers in the mountains are rarely enabled to enjoy, each member of the mess undertaking that portion of the preparation he was best prepared to deal with; one agreeing to bake, another to roast the venison, another to boil the bacon, one gentleman taking in charge the manufacture of short and sweet bread, a second choosing for his department the pies, made from preserved apples; but Captain S--r's was the <HI REND="italics">chef-d'oeuvre</HI>
054.sgm: of the feast, being a plum-pudding, made ship-shape, not to be excelled in composition, which he launched into a liquid so truly exquisite and congenial, as to leave one in doubt whether to prefer the pudding or the sauce.  The part assigned me was to rig a table, and get the Sheffield ware in order, which I managed admirably by means of the front and end boards of the waggon, making shins of willow sticks, that squeeled and bent, not being far enough advanced in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:years to "groan" under the superincumbent profusion, a purified waggon-sheet serving the purposes of the cloth; and, if the cutlery was not all to match, it was matchless in its peculiar variety, a sufficiency being secured by supplying the carvers with bowie-knives, and short swords in lieu of their legitimate instruments.</p><P>Christmas morning was ushered in by a glorious sun, clear and lovely as a dawn in May, undisturbed by servile sounds or noises, a calm air of delicious repose and heavenly tranquillity pervading hill, dell, and dwelling, every one seeming to merge his mission in the memory of the regenerating era; the miners donned their holiday costume, interchanging visits before unusual, and divesting themselves of that turbulent demeanour that seemed their study to excel in; every tent was prepared with some little hospitable welcome, manufactured specially, and every estrangement was forgotten and forgiven; in fact, everything was in pleasing keeping with the day, and the soothed soul, soaring above all worldly cares and vanities, bathed in an exquisite devotional feeling, revelled in those pious impulses which, buried how deeply soever, have a place in the bosom of every Christian.  I knew some on that day who led lives of indifference and impiety, long strangers to the duties of their creed, to sigh and pine for religious consolations, which they despised and neglected when quite within their reach, and retire into seclusion, to commune with their Creator in a spirit of devout sincerity before those sublime and eternal altars, the mighty mountains, that in themselves inculcated silent homilies of reverence and awe, and as impressive sermons on the omnipotence of God as ever issued from the carved and cushioned pulpit; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:and oh! if all Christians who repine at their destinies, cavil at the dispensations of Providence, and trample on the divine injunctions of the Decalogue, were more frequently to contrast the life of self-denial, the perpetual mortifications, the cruel tortures, the bitter passion and death of the divine Being who assumed humanity on that day to vanquish death, and open up a path to Paradise for repentant sinners, with their own trivial or imaginary grievances, how many more penitential mourners would there not be seeking to hide and forget them, under remorse and contrition, imploring their Creator for that "peace of mind which surpasseth all understanding."</p><P>Our dinner-table was quite a spectacle in its way in the diggings, with its studied instrumental arrangements, its bear meat, venison, and bacon, its apple-pies pleasingly distributed, its Gothic columns of plain and fancy breads, interspersed at becoming intervals, and its Cardigans flanking the whole gastronomical array; the plum-pudding alone being reserved for second course, from motives of expedition and economy, as waiters were only to be had by express order from the cities.  We had two guests, natives of the <HI REND="italics">ould</HI>
054.sgm: country, settlers in Oregon, who were about returning home, as gold mines, it was said, had been discovered on Rogue's River, which runs through their own territory, one of whom brought me, as a present, a noble dog that I often desired to possess, as their vigilance about a tent at night supersedes the trying necessity of keeping guard.  I had at first some difficulty in keeping him, but by coaxing and kindness I conciliated him at length, and converted him into a most faithful and affectionate companion.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>After a most cheerful and agreeable meal, we went and joined a full congregation of all the neighbours, smoking, not with perspiration, but with their pipes, seated on the felled firewood logs, enjoying the glorious afternoon, and chatting over times past, present, and to come.  Before we separated it was arranged that one large party should go to Gold Creek, the stream of the battle-field; and another to Trinity River, about forty miles to the northward, discharging into the Pacific Ocean, from which quarter some golden news had lately found its way.  Both of those parties having completed their preparations by the evening of St. Stephen's (the next) day, took their departure on the morning of the 27th.  I was of the Gold Creek division, and being by this time so intimate with the trail, we made a quick march of it, though carrying packs to the full extent of our physical ability; but we were doomed to have our anticipative calculations concerning the season disagreeably confounded by the premonitory symptoms of an approaching change, which arrived, without much threatening, in a decided and angry mood.  We erected rather comfortable quarters, having taken along tents, and went to work the morning after our arrival, under heavy sleet and rain, being desirous to get what we could from the creek (which had fallen low in the good weather) before it rose again.  There was time sufficient to obtain full confirmation of our very extravagant expectations as to its richness, but the gold was in excessively fine particles, as we could not then penetrate to where we expected to find it in greater size.  However, under all the disadvantages of weather, water, and short days, we took out a quantity that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:averaged three ounces to the man per day; but the creek soon raised so that we were, to use a sailor's phrase, obliged "to rest on our oars."</p><P>Up to this period we were unmolested by the Indians, owing, as we all ascribed it, to the presence of my fine dog; but our mutual gratulations on that score were ended a few nights afterwards on our all being aroused from our lairs by his violent barking, and the moment we lit our lamps to get the arms, which, from disuetude and damp, were not much to be relied on, a shower of arrows came through the canvas, wounding nine individuals slightly, and five more rather seriously; but we got rid of them without much trouble, for after a random discharge from the few guns that could be got to explode, we heard or felt no more of the savages for the night.  Although unable to work, we hung on in expectation of outwaiting the bad weather, until our provisions began to get scant, and the incessant rain submerged all the low lands, driving us up to rising ground at a distance from the creek.  At length, as there was no indication of improvement in the weather, and the new moon, according to the Indian tradition, was unpropitiously seated,<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: three of us set out for head-quarters, to get animals, if possible, to carry home four of the wounded men, who were yet in a crippled state, as, from experience of the job in poor Freeman's case, we knew the impossibility of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:doing so of ourselves, from the slushy state of the ground, and the swollen state of the brooks and streams, which also made it a very doubtful experiment with the animals; for even travelling without any packs, with only the materials for one meal, and our rifles, it gave us quite enough to do to pull through.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1">The Indians, when the new moon, in scollop shape, is placed level on its bottom, as a canoe should sit on the water, look for dry weather during its continuance, for in such a position a canoe would hold what water it might contain; but that just in proportion as it is cocked up on end it discharges rain--a primitive tradition which, though it may suit certain latitudes, is not to be relied on as a general index of barometrical accuracy.</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>By a very early start we calculated on reaching the river in one day, and did accomplish it a few hours after sunset, accompanied most attentively by a deluge of rain.  We brought the men on the opposite bank to hail, by discharging our rifles, but they declined attempting the ferry until morning; so we had no shift but sit down supperless in the teaming torrents; and when morning came we found the river had risen far beyond any of its former limits still rising and roaring with terrific import, the heavens sending down their liquid contents in actual streams, giving rise to a feeling of nervousness at the idea of crossing in a crank little canoe; but men supperless overnight, shaking in soaked clothes, and with extra stowage for breakfast, were satisfied to risk a little in getting to comfortable quarters.  However, we were soon relieved from all anxiety about our personal safety, by the information that no one on the other side would undertake the hazard of ferrying us over.</p><P>Placed in this dilemma, there was no resource by which we could procure food but by killing a deer; so out we all sallied, and after a good deal of tiresome beating succeeded in wounding a large buck; but not so as to deprive him of the powers of locomotion.  The consequence was, he led us a chase, in which we easily tracked him by his blood, until from hunger and fatigue we were compelled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:to desist, and labour back to the river bank--a much longer stretch than we had any notion of--where, far from any comfort or relief awaiting us, we were met by the surly thunders of a swelling torrent, fed and pampered by the deluge from above.  Hunger, now overmastering all other sensations, gnawed with torturing importunity, until it produced an actual disinclination for sustenance; by the morbid anguish it caused in the realms of appetite, when lassitude supervened in shivering sleep--not so profound as to render us insensible of the pelting storm that pattered unpittingly over our miserable unsheltered beds; still it was after sunrise when we awoke from this horrible repose, so completely were all the physical energies numbed and prostrated; and although the rain had become perceptibly lighter, the river was as certainly higher, rushing, roaring, and boiling up with a maddened fury that shut out all hopes of a crossing for the day.</p><P>Famine and starvation now began to conjure up dreadful ideas of a wretched death, as, from weakness, we were incapable of going in quest of game; and even supposing we could retrace our steps to the camp we left, we knew that the slender stock of provisions which remained at our departure would have been entirely consumed, and that the probability was they were almost as ill off for food as ourselves--a conjecture which was confirmed in the course of the day by the arrival from thence of two more of our comrades, to urge the despatch of the supplies, as their store had become entirely exhausted.  Our gaunt and altered appearance amazed and alarmed them; and as they had not yet become enervated by long fasting, they left us next morning to try the chances of the forest, first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:gathering some herbs and cresses, to endeavour to allay the pangs with which we were afflicted.  The rain ceased soon after daybreak, and we spent the day in a state betwixt sleep and stupor, in an agony of suspense as to success of the hunters; but in the early afternoon, when we saw them coming down the hill-side without any game, we abandoned all hopes, as the river could not in the nature of things be practicable, ere exhausted nature should have sank into the repose of death.</p><P>I lay down on a gentle slope, from which I never expected to arise, breathing, as I imagined, my last prayers to the throne of Divine grace, my saddened memory at intervals carrying back my thoughts to my native land.  Home, friends, and early associations, at times dreamily weaving themselves into groups and pictures of happiness and enjoyment, in which, for a moment, I would fancy myself participating--a gleam of delight flitting through my distempered imagination, too soon, alas! to be dispelled by the gloomy reality, the melancholy transition deepening my emotions of misery into a keen thrill of utter despair that would have been maddening, were they not sweetly soothed by the consoling hopes of Divine mercy and a glorious eternity.  I prayed for sleep, to come and relieve me from the anguish of my physical pains and sufferings; but that fitful slumber, which was unable to subdue consciousness, would alone visit me.</p><P>While lying in this state on the morning of the fourth day, with my faithful dog at my feet, I overheard the men, who last joined us, discussing the necessity of killing him, as that, with proper economy, his flesh would sustain us until the river so far subsided as to render a passage practicable.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:It added to my wretchedness, while revolving the expedient in my mind, that I was constrained to coincide in its policy; but as my comrades aroused me to communicate the suggestion, and extract my consent, I gazed upon my dumb friend with a tearful eye and sickened heart--the more so, as I fancied he looked wistfully in my face, standing in an attitude of dejection unusual to him, with drooped tail and hanging ears.  I was unable to assent in words, but gave them silently to understand that I would interpose no obstacle; and no sooner had I done so, than poor "Sligo" (so I called him), instead of coiling himself beside me as was his wont, slunk away to some distance, sitting in a mournful attitude, and watching our movements with a grievous steadiness that perfectly unmanned me, impressing me with the steadfast conviction that his intuitive sagacity forewarned him of our cruel intentions.</p><P>It was clealy perceptible to all that his attachment and confidence were altered into fear and distrust, for no calling or coaxing would induce him to come nearer us; while, if any approached him, he receded slowly, but declined to run.  S--, who was the steadiest shot, and had the best rifle, agreed to do the deed; and as he commenced loading, the poor brute betrayed increased uneasiness, moving and shifting restlessly as if about to run off; but finally sitting firmly still on a little mound, as if he came to the determination of yielding himself up as a victim for the salvation of his master, the warm tears trickled freely down my cheeks, and I felt a disposition to go and embrace him when looking at him for the last time.  As S--raised the rifle to his shoulder, the poor animal at the same moment fairly confronted his executioner, throwing back <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:his ears with a low piteous whine, awaiting his doom like a hero.</p><P>Our first meal on poor Sligo was on his raw flesh, before the animal heat had cooled out, all evincing resolution enough to eat sparingly, supported, as I believe, by a natural repugnance to the diet; but next morning, when we succeeded in lighting a fire, we got on better with our fare in a broiled shape.  Furthermore cheered by seeing from our marks that the flood was subsiding, and continued shrinking and calming down all day so rapidly, that we looked forward to get over in the morning; there was sufficient food till then, as the dog was large and fleshy, but we spent a night of nervous inquietude, lest the fickle elements should interpose betwixt us and rescue.  However, a bright dawn opened upon us, disclosing to our delighted vision the river so fallen, as to divest the trip across of much of its terrors; and while we stood upon its brink, joyously and thankfully comparing our present with our late position, a crowd from the settlement came up along the opposite bank, cheering lustily to apprise us that relief was approaching, nor was it long till a gallant youth, named Anderson, was cleaving the stream in the canoe built by our mess, the smallest but most manageable of the fleet.  He was quickly carried down several hundred yards; but as he reached the mid stream, a curling eddy swept the slight bark round with a velocity that appalled those on each bank, shooting her from its embrace into a current that carried her without an effort close in on our side, where we followed down to secure her when she touched.  Having done so, a sonorous cheer filled the air, and shortly after two of the larger canoes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:with two paddles each emerged from the opposite shore, taking their departure much higher than the point from which Anderson started, thereby avoiding the current that hurried him down, and succeeding in making a tolerably direct landing.  We hauled the little craft up by the bank, the three skiffs starting from the same place, and landing us safely, though with a large quantity of water taken in during the passage.</p><P>A fresh party recrossed before evening, carrying a supply of provision to the other sufferers, and a promise that if possible animals should be swam over the following day to bring home the wounded, which was punctually accomplished, and both men and baggage safely landed; the wounds, with one exception, proving trivial, and even that requiring only rest and attetion to ensure a perfect cure.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Snow on the Trinity Mountains--The Party that went there Return--Their Sufferings--Their wretched Appearance--Confirmation of the Golden Character of the Trinity--Daily Averages--Superior Character of the Trinity Indians--Successful Experiments under adverse Circumstances--Trinity Diggers--Their extravagant Expectations--Coast Indians and their Squaws--They make Signs that Gold abounds towards the Coast--Bad Weather and short Provisions restrain the Men from going there--Price of Provisions at Trinity--Effect of the News at the Middle Creek Settlement--Our Mess and two others determine on going to the City of Sacramento--Motives for the Trip--My Feelings on the Subject--State of Society at the Settlement--Effects of the Season on it--Scenes of Grossness and Debauchery--Idleness the Parent of Mischief--I yearn for rational Companionship--My Accomplishments do not suit the prevalent Taste--Consequent irksomeness of my Position--The Taste for Blasphemy--Card-playing at the Mines--Skill of the Players--Consequences of the detestable System--Illustrative Anecdote--Hard Drinking increases--Digging Practices amongst the Miners--Characteristic Mode of observing the Sabbath.</p><P>IT was quite clear, from the appearances of the Trinity Mountains, that the storm which had fallen on us, in a liquid shape, came down there in snow and hail, which left little doubt but that the party who went north must have also had their quota of suffering; nor were we astray in our surmises, for in seven days after our escape they came staggering into camp, in a state of exhaustion and emaciation, that rendered their recognition dubious at a first glance, and even their survival a matter of uncertainty.  Hunger, too, had seized on them with its penetrating fangs; intense cold and exposure had frequently almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:arrested the current of life, and the compulsory toils of daily attempts at progress had worn down their strength to a mere thread.  They set out with seven animals, but returned without one, six having given out and died for want of sustenance; the seventh, a sort of pet, that would take a crust from the hand, and lie beside the camp-fire like a dog, it was, that saved their lives, the story of whose sacrifice formed a curious coincidence with the sorrowful fate of poor Sligo.  Our greatest care only produced slight advances towards recovery, for their appetites appeared to be annihilated beyond the reach of stimulants, and their legs were prodigiously swollen, contracted, and lacerated, from the constant breaking through the ice-crust over which they travelled. </p><P>But they brought back great tidings of the richness of the Trinity diggings, particularly of a new location, some thirty miles down the river, where the few who were encamped admitted that, before the bad weather set in, it was no unfrequent achievement to take out from one to three pounds of gold each daily, but access with animals was the next thing to impracticable.  The Indians there are of another tribe and nature from those along the Sacramento: majestic in person, chivalrous in bearing, incapable of treachery, but ready to fight to the death in avenging an insult or injury.  They are active and energetic in the extreme, hunting down game, with which the country abounds, for their food, which also supplies them with raiment; and endowed with a germ of enterprise or ambition, which instigates them to work, in order to become possessed of a flannel shirt or a blanket.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>Our men did not receive as gospel truths the apparently marvellous tales about the extraordinary mineral wealth of those regions, which, according to the received accounts, would place them so far ahead of all the discovered mines, but commenced testing them by personal experiment, in as far as the state of the weather and the waters would admit.  As it was impossible to try the bars that had been already operated on, the banks of the river, where the diggings were usually carried on, being totally submerged, there was no field, but the more elevated grounds, where the old Trinity hands scorned to expend their time and labour--spoiled children of fortune as they were--rather contented to grant themselves a vacation until the rich golden depo&circ;ts became again accessible, than toil for what in other diggings would be estimated as a right reasonable remuneration.  Our party working and washing the despised soil, under many disadvantages, averaged daily about fifteen dollars each, taking out from twelve to twenty dollars daily to the hand, which, it must be admitted, was "confirmation strong" of the wonderful fertility (if I may use the phrase) of the region, judging by analogy of greater productiveness of the more favoured locations.</p><P>The day before our party set out on their return they received further and more enticing proof of the preeminence of Trinity treasures, by the arrival of a band of noble-looking Indians from the direction of the coast, their first visit among the whites, accompanied by a few squaws, who, strange to say, in this latitude are ugly, illfavoured, stunted in stature, lumpy in figure, and awkward in gait; the men, on the other hand, as I have already described them, being singularly endowed with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:all the opposite personal advantages.  They had not anything to trade; but, from their watchful attention to all the movements, it was evident their object was to ascertain the motives that led to an invasion of their huntingground.  However, as soon as they found out what the pale faces wanted, by observing the result of their operations, they broke out into a simultaneous laugh, shaking their heads derisively, at the same time pointing down the river, and making signs that the gold was more plentiful and more easily procured there, exhibiting a few golden-barbed arrows in proof of their statement.  Our folk were half-inclined to venture down, but the weather was so dreadful, and their stock of provisions at such a very low ebb, they chose rather to endeavour to reach home with the welcome tidings.</p><P>The price of flour at the small settlement, when they left, was five dollars per pound; pork, four dollars; beans, three dollars; coffee was cheap, being over-abundant, and sugar nominal, as nine-tenths of the miners dispensed with its use; but spirits of any kind attained the monstrous figure of sixteen dollars per pint.  Oh! for a few puncheons of Cambeltown or Islay whisky there, and a fig or a snap of the fingers for the diggings.</p><P>The news, as might be expected, at once decided the inhabitants of the migratory city of Middle Creek, on taking wing to the El Dorado as soon as the state of the weather and country would admit of a passage; but as that should necessarily be some weeks in coming round, our mess and two others conceived they would be employing the intervening time profitably and pleasantly in going down to Sacramento City, as the late arrival of some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:lightly-laden waggons proved the attempt was practicable.  They were naturally anxious to get some news from home, and, together with enjoying the comparative luxuries of city fare, and taking a fling through its gaieties and amusements, they laid out their accounts to supply themselves for the ensuing campaign with many trivial but useful necessaries, that traders above never thought of providing, which past experience had convinced them subtracted materially from their comfort and general health.</p><P>It was my intention, had not the expedition been organised, to have started alone with a pack-mule, for I had fully accomplished the objects of my mission to the mines, and began to get heartily sick of the society at the settlement.  In the early season, when the state of the weather never interrupted the employment, and the people were regularly occupied at work throughout the day, retiring to rest at rational hours to repose from fatigue, matters went on orderly, and the time, though dull and monotonous, passed smoothly enough, without resorting to any of those expedients for cheating and consuming the tedious hours of idleness which society, in all its grades, has ordained with ingenious if not laudable adaptability; but since the rainy season set in, and the community were confined to quarters, the system of dividing the day was no longer practicable, and the yawning miner, in the great majority of cases, devoid of any mental resources, embraced the indulgences of degrading appetites and propensities as a cure for ennui, stimulating the dullness of unenlightened rumination with intoxicating drink, and ministering to the cravings of the lust for acquisition and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:excitement by gaming in its most odious guise, giving rise to unintermitting scenes of disgusting debauchery, that partook in their grossness of the reckless character of the class who flocked to snatch up fortunes, where there were no curbs or restraints to check the natural bent of their dispositions.  The seed once sown in so congenial a soil, shot up with luxuriant rapidity, the prolonged period of idleness affording ample time for the full maturation of its odious and contaminating fruit.</p><P>Matters thus daily deepened in repulsiveness, until even my own mess became imbued with the vicious contagion, when I fairly lost all heart, and yearned piningly for the pleasures of rational companionship, and an interchange of those educational acquirements and accomplishments, which, after all, constitute the great charm of intercourse in life.  I could not suit my narratives and small talk to the prevalent tone or taste, nor yet "lend my ears" as a good listener to the current conversation, or take part in the favourite games in vogue amongst them, in consequence of which my position became uncomfortably irksome; for without arrogating to myself any unusual degree of morality, I may be permitted to say, I stood out in a prominent contrast there that did not contribute to the personal pleasantness of my situation, however self-consoling it might have been to my mind and conscience; and although I do not pretend to say I was myself above reproof at any period of my mortal pilgrimage, I had not sunk to so low a depth as to relish society when it discoursed in a series of oaths and imprecations of the most impious character, in which the rarest flowers, the choicest gems, of ribaldry and blasphemy, were scattered about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:with a spendthrift profusion that would muzzle the "recording angel" to keep pace with; where no man's story was worth listening to that was not linked together with infernal curses; where nothing could occur, either of a pleasing or disagreeable nature, that would not elicit an ebullition of diabolical swearing; where the man was cock-of-the-walk who could devote himself most fluently to damnation, calling down the direst imprecation on his own head, or concoct and narrate the most abominable story with the most obscene effect, originating an infamous rivalry for this disgusting pre-eminence, in which even men, advanced in years, whose very presence should restrain such odious displays, contested the palm of depravity with an ardour and accomplishment that was positively appalling.</p><P>Neither was I free from a penchant for the recreation arising out of games of skill or science; but it did not follow from this that I should become fascinated with the sinister attractions of card-playing, conducted in accordance with all the most modern and inscrutable devices of legging and cozening; for the miners never thought of sitting down to dawdle over an honest game to pass the evening; they would not give a cheese-paring for the dull, stupid monotony of fair play; the excitement of cheating, in card stealing, card dropping, packing the deal, or defrauding the pool, constituted, according to their standard, the main interest of the amusement; merit never was awarded to mere skill in play; but when a fellow won by a gross fraud, a shout of approbation complimented his knavery in some such terms as "D--n it," or "G--d A--y d--n it!  any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:dunce can win with good cards--the clever fellow alone by quickness and dexterity;" and so thoroughly were they indoctrinated with this maxim, and practised in its use, that I verily believe a disciple might have been picked from this clumsy crowd, who it would puzzle the most accomplished kid-gloved Greek in any of the fashionable clubs of Paris or London to get to windward of.  As a necessary consequence, serious rows and bloody encounters sprung out of those debasing scenes.  On one occasion, at the national game of "Poker," I observed a player slyly dropping kings into his lap, as opportunity offered, until he assembled all the male portion of the royal family in a cluster, and then with the full confidence of an all but an invincible hand, he substituted ounces for dollars, bragging a half-dozen to begin with, an opposite competitor covering the amount, and advancing an extra half-dozen, on which the other further improved, doubling the sum (both at this juncture placing large buckskin purses of dust on the table), but being met by a similar advance, he began to "smell a rat," and "called him," when, to his utter mortification and discomfiture, four aces were displayed to his astonished gaze; but while his opponent was enjoying the applause of his superior sleight-o'-hand, the patron of royalty snatched his gold from the bench, exclaiming, in virtuous indignation, "Cheating!"  "Villainy!"  &&amp;c., which originated a right royal row of the regular "rough and tumble" sort, "knives, biting, scrooging, and goughing all in," that eventuated in wounds and gashes, the more miraculous that they were not mortal.</p><P>And while to wind up, I honestly plead guilty to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:respect and partiality for a well-edited tumbler of "whisky negus" at the proper season of the day.  The spell was broken when I saw it swallowed at all hours; and, instead of contributing its coruscant influences to convivial intercourse, balefully ministering to the fiercest and most turbulent passions.</p><P>The diggings also furnished a field for a kindred species of adroitness; for when miners found their "lead giving out," they devised some feasible pretext for selling out, extolling their "claim" to the skies, and religiously swearing to the Johnny Raws, who are always to be found, that it yielded a most marvellous average; and as the expectant purchaser approached to inspect the location, the man rocking would unobservedly empty his purse upon the screen, so that when the washer came to be inspected, the quantity it appeared honestly to contain, quickly brought about a bargain at the outside terms demanded, leaving the dupe to be laughed at, and the "downy cove" to be patted on the back, as a paragon worthy to be held up for imitation; and what tickled my fancy exceedingly, was to see the class of Christians I have been describing abstaining from work of a Sunday, which they invariably did, avowing their scruples of conscience about labouring on the Sabbath, while canvassing for a party to sit down to cheat, swear, and drink over a game of "Poker," or listen to the filthy homilies of some hoary debauchee, who gloried the more in his audacious impiety because it was the Lord's-day.  The only exception to those scenes on a day of rest was the one I have already recorded, the Nativity of our Saviour, which I can only account for by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the supposition, that their time was employed in the feasting preparations I have described in a previous chapter.</p><P>I am now done with the mines and miners, having visited all the diggings of note or celebrity on the Sacramento, or its various tributaries, and carried away specimens of minerals and manners from most of them; but, as I have more than once before repeated, I only regard the operations I witnessed as the mere picking up of the crumbs from the rich man's table--the rich remains of the costly and substantial repast being only approachable by the union of science and capital.  I shall not weary the reader any further with my own crude speculations on the origin, distribution, and extent of those precious deposits, but beg to refer him to the report of the Honourable Thomas Butler King on the subject, which was read before and approved of by the United States' Congress, as I have no doubt it will prove both interesting and satisfactory.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Prepare for a Start--The Picturesque--Fair Roads and Fordable Creeks--Stop at Clear Creek--The Contrast betwixt Autumn and Spring--The Crossing of the Creek--Providential Interference of some Packmen--Practices of Californian Travellers--The Mode of Rearing Youngsters in Missouri--Cotton-wood Creek and Plains in their new Garb--Distressing Accident--Recover some of the Property--But poor Eiffe's Gold is wanting--His Affecting Story--His Youthful Enterprise--His Successful Industry--His Calamity, Resignation, and Spirit--Vegetation improves as we go Southward--Mr. Hudspeth's Rancho--Its Favoured Position--His English Housekeeper--Her Salary--Her Perquisites--Compared with old Country Wages--No Field or Garden Cultivation--Remarks on the Subject--The Pretensions of California to be classed as an Agricultural Country--Opinions of Practical Men--Early Emigrants deceived by Mis-statements--Advantages of Mr. Hudspeth's Location--Description of the Road Downwards--Our Supply of Milk--Magnificent Prairie--Covered with Game--The great size Elk Attain--Expert Nigger Butcher--Comparison between Negro and Indian Capabilities--The Niggers in the Mines--Their Conduct there at Variance with their Behaviour in the States--A few loose Reflections on Slavery.</p><P>Now, my good reader, I am again ready for the road, having disburdened my mind of the reflections and observations contained in the last chapter, and in a more lightsome mood to point out all "places of kuriositee," as poor Power used to sing in the "White Horse of the Peppers."  It was on the 23rd of February we got into motion with our waggon of six-ox power, accompanied by two others of like capabilities--a more lovely morning never shone from the heavens, calm and clear, the white mountain tops glistening in the sun, while from the valleys a dense fog <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:arose, lazily rolling up their sides in elongated volumes, shutting out the landscape over which they passed, and occasionally illuminated for a moment with a most strange and picturesque effect, as a slanting ray of light issuing through a ravine penetrated their sombre folds; the earth showed signs of active vegetation, and sounds of gladsome glee were warbled in the grove as we went along, more chirping than melodious, I must admit; for the feathered choristers throughout all the districts of California I visited, seem sadly devoid of natural musical taste or talent.  We whistled merrily, too, finding the ground in fair travellable order, and the creeks not over deep or rapid, stopping at Clear Creek, as the next stage would protract our day's journey too much.  It was near where we pitched our tents as we came up, but its present surface, clothed in a mantle of rich, thick, succulent herbage, beautiful in its garniture of emerald green, exhibited a marked contrast to its brown, withered, and unwelcome aspect in the fall.</p><P>The creek was much swollen, and the going out so steep, we saw there was a job in prospect for the morning; and, sure enough, in the crossing, just as we reached the critical point, the near-side led-steer funked the passage, and turning round suddenly, took the middle yoke off their legs, involving the whole team in a mass of confusion, the waggon, partially afloat, bumping and drifting as the current surged around it; nor do I think we could have escaped without an upset in the stream, or the loss of most of our oxen, only that some packmen, passing at the moment, rode in at great risk, and whipped the refractory leaders into line, continuing at their sides until they made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:a landing.  Another of the waggons also got into difficulty, nearly involving the untimely end of a fine young lad named Eiffe, the driver, who jumped into the stream to set matters to rights, when he was immediately swept away, and not being a swimmer, would have inevitably perished had not one of the same party, who kindly relieved us, dashed down after him and dragged him ashore.  Beyond the sousing, he was not a whit the worse; for, throwing off his wet clothes into the waggon, he was as fresh as ever in a few moments.  In California, it is an invariable practice of travellers--like the coaches in the olden time--to pull up at meeting and exchange their news, and as we felt under so many obligations to the packmen, we gladly and minutely gave them all the information they sought respecting the mines; the principal querist asking me as a wind-up, "If there was much sickness in the diggings?" to which I replied "Yes;" commencing my enumeration of the ailments with "fever and ague," when he stopped me with the exclamation, "Oh! if that is all, it's o' no account, we Missourians are raised on them," uttering it, in as cool and literal a tone, as if they really constituted a main portion of his infantile pabulum.</p><P>As we approached Cotton Wood we could scarcely recognise the face of the fine plains, decked in their luxuriant garb of clover, grass, wild oats, and barley, of which the oxen snatched mouthfuls as they trudged along; having been forewarned by the packmen that the creek would present rather a formidable obstacle to our progress, we drove on briskly to reach it early, resolved to attempt the crossing before night; the more especially, as the skies lowered, as if a change was about to take place before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:morning.  Although we led the van at Clear Creek, the conduct of our led yoke there absolved us from that position on the present occasion, giving way to Eiffe, whose pluck, far from being cooled, appeared to have been fresh braced by the late ducking.  A stiffish breeze having sprung up, he stripped off the waggon-cover, which created a considerable wind-draught, and then got astride the near led steer, stationing a comrade in front of the waggon with a whip to urge those in the tongue and centre, making a straight and excellent shoot across to a low gravelly bar, where all difficulties would have terminated; but from some cause we could not discover, or Eiffe subsequently explain, the whole team turned right down with the flood, and, getting off the ridge of the ford, were all soon beyond their depth.  In their struggles, the oxen got disengaged somehow or other from the waggon, and as Eiffe stuck to the steer on which he was mounted, he got safely to shore; but his comrades getting to the same side to jump out, upset the waggon, emptying all the contents into the creek, the cover having been unluckily removed.  The boys got ashore after a sharp struggle, and while I was congratulating them on their escape, a stifled but piteous sobbing caught my ear, when looking round, I saw poor Eiffe shedding tears abundantly.  I sought to console him by the assurance that everything of consequence would be recovered, as trunks would float, and even bags containing clothes would be carried ashore in some of the eddies; while, as regarded the provisions, we had enough for both messes, besides which, two days' more would bring us to Hudspeth's rancho, where abundance could be obtained.  But my consolations conveyed no comfort; in fact in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:abstraction I believe he never heard them, for heaving a sad sigh, he mournfully said, "I care not for myself, it is my dear mother and sisters I grieve for."  I repeated my assurance that the trunks would be got, thinking it was their loss he bewailed, as most probably they contained his all.  "I know," he said, "the trunks will be found, but my belt with all my gold in it is at the bottom and will never float or be found."  The poor fellow, when he got wet before in Clear Creek, stripped off everything, even the filleted leather belt, in which miners generally sew up their gold, and threw all loosely into the bottom of the waggon, where they remained until the unfortunate accident.  The waggon came to shore on a point about half a mile down, the loose cloths nearer hand, and the three trunks in some willows at a bend below the waggon, but the flour and pork sunk, and the belt, containing 1800 dollars, was nowhere to be found.</p><P>I don't remember ever experiencing a more poignant sensation of sorrow and commiseration than while listening to the youthful sufferer, narrating his own story at the camp-fire that night.  He ceased weeping, but there was an air of sadness and patient resignation in his manner, and a melancholy cadence in his voice much more affecting than the more violent demonstrations of grief.  His family resided in the northern part of Indiana, on a pleasant profitable farm, on which his father raised 1000 dollars by mortgage, to enable him to build a new house, and convert the original log erections into stables, but died soon after (fifteen months previous to the accident), leaving the boy, seventeen years of age, the oldest of the family, to struggle for the support of his mother and six sisters.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:idea of the mortgage, bearing a high rate of interest, terrified the boy, but he took heart on hearing of the golden valleys of California, resolving to reap one harvest there, while, by extraordinary exertions, he put in an early spring crop on his farm at home, sufficient to meet the wants of the family, and a gale's interest on the mortgage; and then, under his mother's sanction, hired himself to a wealthy neighbour about starting for that country, undertaking to drive the team for his mere support on the road.  They had rather a successful journey, and poor Eiffe reached our encampment by a similar engagement to a party of miners coming up to northern mines.  It was late in the fall when he got to work, but he was industrious, and, stimulated by a son and a brother's love and affection, he laboured late and early, on wet days and cold days, to try and return, lest the unfeeling mortgagee should harass or impose on his mother in his absence.  With what a proud and happy spirit he started homeward on the morning of the 23rd of February, shortening (as he described it) at every step the distance that intervened betwixt him and his beloved mother and sisters, carrying along with him more than the amount he required to release them from debt and anxiety.</p><P>He often felt the unfortunate belt to assure himself it was no cheat of imagination; but there were the well-packed fillets that were to carry competence and happiness to his dear home.  His ambition was satisfied, and he never again intended travelling beyond the precincts of his farm, save with its produce to the nearest market; whiling away the tedium of the journey revolving projects in his mind calculated to add to the comforts and enjoyments of those he loved so tenderly; two months more and he would have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:been in the midst of them, standing erect on his own hearth in all the innocent pride of independence, a free man, absolved from debt, with health, energy, and hopefulness to fight the battle of life; but the chalice of happiness was dashed from his lips; he was again a man of straw; he trusted, however, a benignant Providence would watch over and protect the widow and the orphans, while he returned to the mines and dug out 1800 dollars more.</p><P>It was a pitiful tale, and I never so wished for riches as at the moment he concluded, that I might place within his hand an equivalent for his loss, and speed him on his filial and holy mission.  He seemed relieved by the telling of his painful story; and next morning his stoical composure, nay, cheerful resignation, quite surprised me in so young a lad, for it is rarely indeed that the sanguine and impatient temperament of youth can calmly and uncomplainingly brook a disappointment of so harrowing a nature.  All that remained to refit himself again for the diggings--and it was barely sufficient--was his share in the team and waggon.  He came with us as far as Hudspeth's rancho, where he sold out to his companions; and having laid in his supplies, took his leave of us in a spirit of gaiety and self-reliance that showed a nobility of nature rarely to be met with, returning without a murmur to the scene of his late labours, and giving me a letter to post when I reached the States, containing, I suppose, an account of his misfortune.  I sincerely trust that God has prospered him, and that he is now in a happy home enjoying the fruits of his sterling industry.</p><P>As we proceeded downwards the vegetation was more forward, and the fine plains, which now began expanding to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:great width, were thickly stocked with herds of wild cattle, interspersed with great quantities of elk and deer, all driven down into the plains by the snow on the mountains.  One of our men shot an elk, and for the first time I tasted the flesh of that animal: it is coarse-grained and dark, and as I surveyed my steak before tasting it, looked like a tough morsel, but much to my surprise, I found it tender and well-flavoured.</p><P>On the evening of the 27th we reached Mr. Hudspeth's rancho, situated most admirably on a highly fertile plain, sufficiently elevated to escape inundation from any but extreme floods, and favourably placed with regard to water, having the Sacramento as its eastern boundary, and Stoney Creek traversing its southern extremity all the way to the coast range, to which the prairie here uninterruptedly extends, leaving the cattle an immense range.  The whole extent, as far as the eye could survey it, was absolutely waving in the gentle wind the wild oats, and indigenous grasses springing up with extraordinary luxuriance, thickly commingled with clover and wild vetches; and, as might be expected, all the cattle and horses were in the finest possible condition.  His house was on a large scale, for the country built of logs, calculated for the accommodation of miners who usually made a halt there, the housekeeping being conducted by an English girl who fled in a passing train from the Salt Lake City--an admirable cook--and made the nicest butter I ever used, for which services she was requited by the liberal salary of 1000 dollars per year, and the right to dispose of, as her proper perquisites, all the milk, butter, cheese, and eggs that remained after supplying the wants of the household.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:Those she admitted to me: according to the amount they then realised weekly, would increase her yearly income to 2500 dollars, which on explanation did not surprise me, as she obtained twenty-five cents a piece for eggs, which sometimes got so high as fifty; one dollar per quart for milk, four dollars for butter, and I forget how much for cheese; then the overplus of each must have been immense, from the legions of hens about the premises and the incredible number of calves I saw in the corrall, while the constantly passing waggons, pack-companies, and whale-boats, never suffered a stock to accumulate or spoil in her hands.  Only think of &pound;500 a year, ye cooks and dairy-maids of old England, and leave off your pert and saucy airs.  Let us hear no more emulous boasting amongst the West-End Clubites about the princely salaries they give their foreign artists, while an humble girl in a log-hut in the wilds of a new country, receives close on the amount that would qualify a country squire to represent his native county in the Imperial Parliament.</p><P>It was here I got my first drink of milk since I left Salt Lake, and, oh, what a glorious treat it was, one I would not have exchanged for the choicest productions of French or Rhenish vineyards, and it was healthful as well as agreeable, for after a three days' sojourn we all sensibly felt altered, and improved habits of body.  Our elk meat was now disregarded in our love for fresh butter and eggs, which we consumed in quantity, even at the rural rate of 25 cents per egg; but there were no vegetables or cultivation of any sort, nor was there even a garden attached to premises, nor to any of those we passed in our up journey, while as to field cultivation such a project was deemed to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:so entirely preposterous that it was never attempted, except in some of those more favoured spots, which are so few and circumscribed in extent that any crop which could be raised on them could scarcely be taken into account in the supplies of the country.<ANCHOR ID="n13-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: Many people emigrated to California, intending to confine themselves entirely to agricultural pursuits, but even in the limited tracts along the valleys of the Sacramento and the San Joaquim, where wheat, corn, and potatoes might be raised, with the aid of irrigation, the great expense of making and keeping fences in repair, and the enormous price of labour, forbid all hopes of making it a profitable speculation as a general thing; while those articles, raw and manufactured, can be imported at the rates they are from the States, Chili, Oregon, the Sandwich Islands, and the Australian colonies, some few that have been lucky enough to secure small scopes of good land in convenient situations, have been well paid by raising potatoes and garden vegetables; but if the country were dependent on those meagre supplies, with its rapidly increasing population, we would not only hear of a scarcity of esculents, but of a prevalence of scurvy.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1">Colonel Fremont grounds his argument in support of the agricultural capabilities of California on the products of the Missions; but to show how difficult it was even to select sites for the few establishments of that sort in the country, I will quote an article from the laws regarding their foundation:--"Art. 7.  The place where a mission settlement is to be made, ought to be selected, <HI REND="italics">if possible</HI>
054.sgm:<P>When treating of the pretensions of California to be classed amongst agricultural countries, it should be known that the rainy season there prevails over the period at which fall-sowings might be put in, and early spring preparations should be made, when the earth, so far from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:being in a state fit for the plough, could not be trod over by cattle; the general sowing, then, of necessity, must always be late, and the parching season arriving before the crop is half ripe, it withers and dies, in a state of forward semi-maturation.  The only crop that can be depended on is the hay-crop, but beyond what the ranchero wants for his own use, it is valueless, save in the vicinity of the few cities and villages scattered over the country: those are not merely my own notions and ideas, but the opinions of practical men long settled in the country, who tried and failed in the experiment; in point of fact, if it were feasible, there would now be large tracts in tillage, as from the numbers of Americans there who were bred and brought up to farming, many of them would be following the plough.  But California is essentially a grazing country--which it must remain, and I know none other that can excel it as such; though we were sometime since accustomed to hear it cried up as "the finest country for agriculture on the face of the globe," and to see this and such like assertions circulated by the American press, the political and private purposes it was sought to promote by the propagation of such a belief having been superseded by the discovery of the gold mines, we cease latterly to have those resources so diligently puffed and relied on--not, however, before numerous families thus fooled emigrated from the States and Oregon; most of whom, finding out the imposition, returned to the latter country.  The few who remained accommodating themselves to the circumstances, turned their attention to stock raising, which, from subsequent events, has become a highly lucrative occupation.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>The rancho of Mr. Hudspeth over and above the natural advantages I have before referred to, is situated, I may say, at the head of the deep-water navigation of the Sacramento, which, immediately above it, forks and shoals, and, thence upwards, gets concentrated at several points into rapids, which must for ever, I conceive, forbid the idea of trading with large craft; and, most probably from this circumstance and its position with regard to the northermost mines, it will soon become the site of a new city.  Miners, travelling thus far by water, being constrained to use animals for the remainder of the journey, purchase all Mr. Hudspeth can supply, paying whatever price the tender conscience or caprice of that gentleman may choose to affix; in addition to which he has, also, a ready market for fat beeves, at the adjacent mines, and derives a large income by grazing the cattle, that companies so soon as they arrive at their destinations, send there to recruit; so that to use a common phrase, "putting this and that together," I think Mr. Hudspeth is likely to skim the cream of the diggings.</p><P>It was about thirty miles higher up, on the opposite side, where we experienced such extreme difficulty and danger in crossing the Sacramento in the fall on our up journey, so that the country downwards is yet untrodden ground for the reader, who will therefore be kind enough to bear with me in calling his attention to the various objects of interest on the route.  The morning we left was clear and cool, the temperature, contrary to what might be looked for, becoming more and more so as we proceeded southwards, our trail lying close by the river edge, through a fringe of timber, which in the more advanced season <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:must afford a fine umbrageous avenue to the jaded traveller, continuing as it does, with scarcely a break throughout the entire journey, following all the sinuosities of the river, and consequently lengthening the road.  In the spring and fall this is unavoidable from the soft state of the prairie, while along the course of the river there is an elevated ridge of ground extending the width of the grove above the influence of the floods, which furnishes a dry and firm road during the summer months.  However, case-hardened travellers, for whom the blistering orb has no terrors, have the option of choosing the diameter instead of the semi-circumference of those elongating bends.</p><P>Maugre the cost, we filled every canteen, bottle, flask, and vial we had with new milk--that sweet natural nectar so far before all the drugged and fermented distillations of human invention when you obtain it in its virgin purity; and as our pretty Hebe poured the genuine lacteal stream from her well-scoured pail, I thought of the sky-blue parodies of London concoction, and the civic dialogue, "You put dirty water in the milk this morning, you hussy, you."  "No, indeed marm, it was clear from the well."  We estimated our day's progress at eighteen miles as we pulled up in the evening, after having skirted along a splendid prairie all day, even excelling that we had previously gone over in its luxuriant verdure, forming quite a downy couch beneath our blankets, and saving us our usual mornings' task of hunting up the scattered cattle, who filled themselves to repletion on the spot, and lay down beside the waggons.  There were innumerable herds of wild cattle and elk scattered over the rich natural pasture, grazing in quiet communion like the tame flocks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:of the settler.  The plains here began to widen out considerably, the coast range taking the shape of the segment of a circle, while the surface of the land was as level as a lake, but totally devoid of water-courses for a great distance, exhibiting a smooth and settled aspect as if it retained its primeval formation unwrinkled, undisturbed by any of those angry convulsions that distorted the face of the country on the east side of the river, causing it to appear that the stream interposed between it, and the volcanic parturitions of the Sierra Nevada a singularity of feature that extends to the coast mountains, whose rounded outline form a striking contrast to the jagged and pointed peaks of the inland range.</p><P>Although we had soft beds, it was impossible to sleep in the early part of the night from the packs of coyotes that surrounded us, serenading us with an uninterrupted chorus of shrill, discordant barking, that would have overpowered the virtues of the most powerful narcotic.  Being up by times in the morning from this annoyance, I got an opportunity of shooting a large buck, with which we displaced our elk meat that was getting a little the "worse of the wear," emitting a racy odour, that I believe brought the wolves to our door the preceding night.  Some of those elk arrive at an uncommon size, much beyond what I imagined they ever attained.  I saw one shot the same morning by a party, whose night-quarters were a few miles below us, that was fully as large as an average sized mule, and I could not help admiring the flippant dexterity and neatness with which a nigger belonging to the "crowd" denuded him of his hide, and disembogued the entrails, separating, with all the skill of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:a regular practitioner, the lard, fat, heart, and liver, which were retained for use; but as I remarked during my limited experience in the States, they are handy and expert at whatever they try or give attention to, whether as servants as tradesmen, making, as we all know, famous cooks, nonpareil barbers, excellent sailors, capital blacksmiths (puns apart), carpenters, and tailors, at each of which trades I saw them at work--in short, attaining and <HI REND="italics">retaining</HI>
054.sgm: a respectable mediocrity in whatever business or calling they are apprenticed to.  Standing on a towering eminence above the Indian, who is incapable of acquiring any art or handicraft that involves the slightest exercise of mind or judgment, and even if he does arrive at any moderate degree of skill by laborious teaching, he relapses into his original ignorance and indolence whenever he is placed in an independent position--as the story is told, taxing the soil to reproduce what he was accustomed to make in the workshop.  The most that can be made of him, with an infinity of pains, is the primitive occupation of a herder of stock; yet place the head of an Indian beside that of a Negro, and compare and contrast the fine, intellectual-looking features and phrenological developments of the one with the low, animal cast and construction of the other, and how totally irreconcileable will not the result be with the plausible doctrines of Lavater or the ingenious theories of Spurzheim.</p><P>While on the subject I will take the opportunity of remarking a strange circumstance relating to the Negro slaves in California, who are said to be so sensibly impatient under the yoke at home, always on the look-out for a slip to escape over the border, or by sheer thrift <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:striving to acquire a sum sufficient to purchase their freedom, and whose emancipation is now the great political question of the States.  Yet not one, in any instance that I could ascertain after the most minute inquiries, deserted in the mines; where they were in great numbers, without any law to restrain them, and therefore no punishment to overtake them, the road wide open, without obstacle, or any sort of espionage, which would have been equally absurd and ineffectual, and equal opportunities with their owners of aggrandisement within their reach.</p><P>It formed a riddle I never could read so as to convince myself, or get others to solve satisfactorily.  There appears only one of two modes of accounting or explaining it.  The first, want of moral courage to risk a separation, where disease was so prevalent, medical attendance so difficult to procure, life so precarious, and remuneration of labour, according to their views and fears, so problematical in good health, and so certain to be absorbed by the continuation of any disabling ailment; the second, the sincerity of their attachment to their masters, and real indifference to their state, notwithstanding the thunders of the press, the magniloquence of stump orators, the moans of superannuated vestals, and the pulpit denunciations of philanthropic divines, who have kept anathematising the slaveholder and encouraging the negro, until those sable gentry in the free States have become so inflated with the idea of their importance, that they have actually nominated the Honourable Mr. Seward as their candidate for the next presidency, and a man of colour for his vice; some of their orators predicting that the day is close at hand when the rice swamps of Carolina, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the tobacco fields of Virginia, and the cotton plantations of Alabama, will not only change the colour of their masters, but the colour of their slaves.</p><P>I do not pretend to be a profound observer; still it would appear to me that on the slavery question hinges the continuance and integrity of the great federal union, the prosperity of all the southern, and, collaterally, that of the north-eastern or manufacturing states.  For it is admitted, because it cannot be denied, that the products of that section of the union can only be cultivated and secured by the labours of the coloured race; and we have before our eyes the recent experiment of Great Britain trying graduated manumission in the West Indian colonies, at the enormous cost of twenty millions stirling, which resulted in the surcease of all cultivation, and the utter annihilation of the value of property in those islands, from which it is not unreasonable to presume that like effects would be entailed by like causes in America; and should it turn out so, and that cotton, tobacco, sugar, molasses, rice, and coffee, came to be subtracted from the exports of that country, her much boasted commerce would soon dwindle down into paltry and miserable insignificance, and the flourishing, healthy condition of the New England manufacturing section of the union become afflicted with premature decay and atrophy.</p><P>And while such important consequences are at stake, there does not appear to be a scintilla of pure philanthropy in the motives of the abolitionists, whose violent agitation seems to me rather the fermentation of wounded, over-weening pride, making an effort to shake off a reproach which the older and more civilised nations of Europe are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:perpetually throwing in their teeth; for with all their cant and whine about the pitiable moral condition of the Negro, together with their favourite democratic doctrine of perfect equality and toleration," they themselves do not hesitate placing the ban upon the manumitted darkies, shunning and avoiding all intercourse with them, as if they were an infected race, manifesting an amount of insulting scrupulosity that creates a moral thraldom, infinitely less bearable, to an independant man, than actual slavery to a captured Negro.  I recollect, in travelling from Lancaster to Buffalo (the free region), I got into a railway carriage that was crowded to a crush in every corner, with the exception of a long seat, at the end of which sat a respectable-looking man of colour, beside whom I took my place, to the great astonishment of my fellow-passengers, which ripened into impertinent sneers and audible whispers of contempt, when I entered into conversation with this free citizen--conduct, I maintain, that is wholly incompatible and inconsistent with a sincere advocacy of the great moot question; first labouring to elevate a raw people to their own level, and then studying to convince them they are in a false position, producing, what struck me, as a remarkable contrast betwixt the free Negro and the slave, that was altogether in favour of the latter; the one having attained the acme of social privileges is suddenly left to look after his own interests and concerns, and corroding with rancour at not being received with brotherly equality by his white brethren, becomes a disappointed, discontented, vicious member of society; the other having all his wants supplied, without cares to vex him, and no goading ambition to torture his mind, goes through life on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the broad grin, full of fun and merriment, working with a smile, and enjoying the occasional indulgence accorded to him with a gleeful relish.  This contrast I found in New York and Missouri, in which latter state, if a laughing eye and a joyous countenance are an index to a happy and satisfied mind, Sambo was as well off as heart could wish; and I must certainly affirm, that it is a gratuitous and very questionable philanthropy that would pour an acid into such a breast, turning the sweet calm feelings of contentment into sour jealousy and vain ambition.</p><P>Let it not be supposed, however, that I am an advocate of slavery.  No such thing.  I abhor it.  I abominate all tyrannical restraint, even to the chaining of a dog, caging of a bird, or confinement of a horse; but I do not hesitate to say that the negro must be in a better position with his master in the States, where he receives the light of Divine truth, and learns to become a useful member of society, than in his original savage condition, where he ekes out a mere animal existence in the most cruel state of thraldom, liable to be offered up as a sacrifice by his savage king to cure the barrenness of a favourite wife, or assuage the dyspeptic pangs of a pet monkey; after which his majesty would--if his larder afforded the delicacy--turn round to enjoy a snack on the remains of a cold missionary.  Of all great public questions at home or abroad, slavery evermore has been the one agitated in most fierce extremes, and debated with the greatest cant and most consummate hypocrisy.  I have, on the one hand, seen a puling abolitionist shedding crocodile tears over imaginary sorrows that he knew in his soul were never perpetrated, and was told on the other, by a holder in --, "that such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:was his tender affection for his slaves, that in his glass factory he always employed white men for the furnace-work, which was so destructive to health."  The abolitionist looked for tears of sympathy and commiseration for his fabricated grievance, and the holder, in bidding for the commendations of benevolence, <HI REND="italics">over</HI>
054.sgm: looked the glaring drawback that his motives originated, in his solicitude for the preservation of <HI REND="italics">a property</HI>
054.sgm: at the expense of a white brother's fate, who most probably had a wife and family depending on his life for support.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Change of Weather--Quantities of Wild Geese--Wild Duck--Their Variety--Anecdote illustrative--The Country and its Adaptation for Settlement--Effects of browsing on the Fertility of the Soil--Demonstrated by Comparison--Williams's Ranch--One of the Olden Establishments--Nature of their Origin--Culpable Indifference of Early Settlers--Mania of Land Speculation after the Conquest--Over-eagerness of Purchasers--Alarming Revelations--Consequent Excitement--U.S. Agent specially commissioned to investigate the Matter--Spanish and Mexican Colonial Law and Practice--Mode of obtaining Grants--Consecutive Steps to acquire Rights--Courts of Record--Final Step to perfect Title--Subsequent Proceedings, embracing Survey, &amp;c.--Mission Property--How constituted--When transferred from the Jesuits to the Franciscans--Subject to be secularised--Reference to Laws and Authorities concerning them--Their actual Rights--No Reservation in Mexican Grants as to Minerals--Concluding Paragraphs in the Report--Its general Tendency to soothe Public Feeling--Probability of a State Compromise.</p><P>The morning was chill, but dry, as we continued our journey, with a stiff breeze ominously increasing, and absolute clouds of wild geese winging it away south, splitting the air with their screams, the wind and noise of their wings reaching us perceptibly as they passed, settling in myriads over the plains, and keeping up a strain of incessant shrieks, as they flapped out of the way of the elk and wild cattle in moving over the pasturage, to which they imparted a strange and unique aspect, with their long thin necks moving in the midst of the waving herbage, contrasting softly with its verdant hue.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:are precisely of the same genus of those peculiar to our own islands, and, not being driven as yet by the progress of settlement to seek for sustenance on the coast, are free from the fishy flavour which excludes our wild goose from epicurean destruction, they attain a plumpness and rotundity of body fully equal to the largest barn-fed fowl, while they are so tame, from being unused to interruption, they can be shot with a little revolver.  The wild duck, likewise, are devoid of apprehension, and sail past you, as you sit on the bank of the river, with as much confidence and nonchalance as the west-end pets in St. James's Park.  Of those there are a considerable variety.  Besides the duck and mallard, teal and widgeon, indentical with the British family, there is rather a curious species, called the "tree duck," from its habit of perching on branches and laying and hatching their eggs in the hollow forks of trees; and two or three other unchristened tribes, one as piebald as the magpie, the other perfectly white, the flesh of which latter one is soft and tasteless, and their skins so exceedingly flimsy, that it is impossible to pluck them without tearing them to atoms.</p><P>Sitting, one fine Sunday afternoon, on the banks of the Sacramento, the varieties were pointed out and described to me by the unfortunate Mr. Colville, who was murdered afterwards, who, while proceeding through the catalogue, pointed up, saying, "and here we have <HI REND="italics">tree</HI>
054.sgm: ducks," as a brace of birds skimmed closely over our heads.  "You must be more accurate," I said, jokingly, "if I am to chronicle all your descriptions."  "But I am quite correct," he replied.  "I appeal to Mr. Mansfeldt; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:--and there sit the pair in yonder tree."  "Ay, but where is the third one?" said I.  "I made no allusion to a third one."  "Then both my eyes and ears are at fault; for that is precisely what constitutes our appeal.  You exclaimed, `There go <HI REND="italics">three</HI>
054.sgm: ducks,' while I could only count two."  On which, they both burst into an immoderate fit of laughter, that was explained by a description of the peculiarities of those web-footed roosters.</p><P>The country continued to exhibit the same appearances of fertility, but without any picturesque features to vary the sameness or charm the capricious eye, as it expanded over an ocean of waving grass, extending from the river edge to the mountain base; unless it were the animal life with which it was studded.  We passed by several places where nature seemed to invite the emigrant, from their peculiar adaptability to settlement; the river getting embayed at those points into what are termed sloughs, extending for miles inwards, affording a desideratum for grazing and domestic conveniences that will not, under the present order of things, continue to be long neglected.  I observed a marked difference in the character of the herbage in those unsettled localities as compared with that around the various ranches, where the feeding is more regular and continuous, showing that the constant browsing brings on a thicker skin upon the soil; the close crop as it grows up in the early spring forming a perfect sheltering shade, effectually protecting the earth from the parching, baking effects of the sun, and enabling it to retain its moisture, which it yields gradually to the natural cravings of vegetation, instead of the thirsty demands of evaporation; whereas the natural grass and wild barley <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:(as would be the case in a greater degree with cultivated crops) grow so rank and sparsely that, ere they stool and spread out, the hot season arrives, cakes and cracks the exposed soil, evaporating the material essence of fertility, absorbing the very pabulum of vegetation, and leaving the bereft crop to sicken and wither prematurely.  Thus it was, in coming up in the autumn, herbage powdered into snuff in the unsettled districts, while around the few scattered ranches it retained a degree of verdure and succulence up to a very late period of the season; affording, in my humble opinion, a demonstrative proof that without irrigation agriculture can never be successfully followed in that country.</p><P>We arrived at noon at a Mr. Williams's ranch--a late purchase--where recent improvements, superadded to more antique erections, give it quite an extensive appearance.  It is one of those few and far between establishments originally founded either by the early Spanish settlers--the emigrants I have alluded to in a previous chapter--or by Europeans, principally British, thinly but surprisingly scattered over the country, long, long before even Captain Sutter dreamt of fixing his abode there; some of those came seawards, cast away upon the coast, as they told me; others worked their way upland from the Mexican mines, intermarrying, and getting portions of land, with members of Spanish families that came to the country under the auspices of <HI REND="italics">emprasarios</HI>
054.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n14-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: many of whom neglected complying with the formalities <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:of the colonisation laws of the government; or, getting direct grants from the governors, heedlessly omitted procuring the ratification of their titles, from the listless habits acquired by association, living in a sunny clime, surrendered to sensual enjoyments, and never once harbouring an idea that internal policy or foreign interference would call those unauthenticated documents in question; until, after the late conquest, when, in the delirious demand for land, most of them sold out to American speculators, who, in their rash eagerness to become possessed of the property, and their ignorance of Spanish law and language, concluded and consummated bargains without becoming cognisant of the invalidity of the conveyances; purchasing also from Spaniards similarly circumstanced, and from the incumbents of missions, who avowed that the absolute property vested in them, being unconditionally granted, not only for ecclesiastical uses, but as a reward for their labours in promoting the colonisation of the country,--an assertion which had a colourable authenticity about it, from the well-known policy of Spain in invariably establishing missions in remote provinces as instruments of their colonial system, making them the precursors of the more extensive emigration.  Thus, in an incredibly short space of time, a vast quantity of lands changed hands; those with imperfect titles, as might naturally be expected, taking the lead in the transfers, the persons in possession not exacting the most extreme terms in their anxiety to dispose of their insecure tenures.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1"><HI REND="italics">Emprasarios</HI>
054.sgm:<P>But when the actual state of affairs came to be disclosed, a high feverish excitement ensued, that threatened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:to convert the meek sheepskins into a sea of trouble, and a very angry and tempestuous one, too; more particularly as news arrived that the United States' Government had come to the resolution of recognising and respecting all Spanish and Mexican grants, duly fulfilled and properly executed, before the conquest, and of treating as waste paper all those imperfect titles above alluded to; sending out, for the purpose of discriminating, a special agent, in the person of William Carey Jones, a gentleman, as I understand, eminently qualified, from his professional attainments, for discharging the duties of the arduous office; who, after a most strict and patient inquiry into all the Spanish and Mexican laws and precedents touching the subject, and a most rigid search amongst the archives and records of the late government, has compiled a clear and concise report, that exhibits the matter in all its bearings, divested of doubt or mystification.</p><P>With regard to the grants to individuals and <HI REND="italics">emprasarios</HI>
054.sgm:, he states: "All grants of land made in California (except pueblo, or village lots, and except some grants north of the Bay of San Francisco, as will be hereafter noticed), subsequent to the independence of Mexico, and after the establishment of that government in California, were made by the different political governors.  The great majority of them were made subsequent to January, 1832, and consequently under the Mexican Colonisation Law of 18th of August, 1824, and the government regulations adopted in pursuance of the law, dated 21st of November, 1828.  In January, 1832, General Jose&acute; Figueroa became governor of the then territory of California, under a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:commission from the government at Mexico, replacing Victoria, who, after having the year before displaced Echandrea, was himself driven out by a revolution.  The installation of Figueroa restored quiet after ten years of civil commotion, and was at a time when Mexico was making vigorous efforts to reduce and populate her distant territories, and consequently granting lands on a liberal scale.  In the act of 1824, a league square (being 4428 402/1000 acres) is the smallest measurement of rural property spoken of; and of these leagues square, eleven (or nearly 50,000 acres) might be conceded in a grant to a single individual.  By this law, the <HI REND="italics">states</HI>
054.sgm: composing the federation were authorised to make special provision for colonisation within their respective limits, and the colonisation of the <HI REND="italics">territories</HI>
054.sgm:, `conformably to the principles of the law,' charged upon the central government.  California was of the latter description, being designated a territory in the <HI REND="italics">Acta Constitutiva</HI>
054.sgm: of the Mexican federation, adopted 31st of January, 1824, and by the constitution adopted 4th of October same year.<ANCHOR ID="n14-2">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: The colonisation of California, and the granting of lands therein, was, therefore, subsequent to the law of 18th of August, 1824, under the direction and control of the central government.  That government, as already stated, gave regulations for the same 21st of November, 1828.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-2">The political condition of California was changed by the constitution of 29th of December, and the act for the division of the republic into departments, of the 30th of December, 1836.  The two Californias then became a department, the confederation being broken up, and the states reduced to departments.  The same colonisation system, however, seems to have continued in California.</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>"The directions were very simple.  They gave the government of the territories the exclusive right and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:faculty of making grants within the terms of the law; that is, to the extent of eleven leagues, or <HI REND="italics">sitios</HI>
054.sgm:, to individuals, and colonisation grants (more properly contracts), that is, grants of larger tracts, to <HI REND="italics">emprasarios</HI>
054.sgm:, or persons who should undertake, for a consideration in land, to bring families to the country for the purposes of colonisation.  Grants of the first description, that is, to families or single persons, and not exceeding eleven sitios, were `not to be held definitively valid until sanctioned by the <HI REND="italics">territorial deputation</HI>
054.sgm:.'  Those of the second class, that is the <HI REND="italics">emprasario</HI>
054.sgm:, or colonisation grants (or contracts), required a like sanction from the <HI REND="italics">supreme government</HI>
054.sgm:.  In case the concurrence of the deputation was refused to a grant of the first-mentioned class, the governor should appeal in favour of the grantee from the assembly to the supreme government.</p><P>"The ` <HI REND="italics">first inception</HI>
054.sgm: ' of the claim, pursuant to the regulations, and as practised in California, was a petition to the governor praying for the grant, specifying usually the quantity of land asked, and designating its position, with some descriptive object or boundary, and also stating the age, country, and vocation of the petitioner.  Sometimes, also (generally at the commencement of the system), a rude <HI REND="italics">map</HI>
054.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">plan</HI>
054.sgm: of the required grant, showing its shape and position with reference to other tracts or natural objects, was presented with the petition.  This practice, however, was gradually disused, and few of the grants made in late years have any other than a verbal description.</p><P>"The next step was usually a reference of the petition made in the margin by the governor to the prefect of the district, or other near local officer, where the land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:petitioned for was situate, to know if it was vacant and could be granted, without injury to third persons or the public, and sometimes to know if the petitioner's account of himself was correct.  The reply ( <HI REND="italics">informe</HI>
054.sgm: ) of the prefect, or other officer, was written upon, or attached to the petition, and the whole returned to the governor.  The reply being satisfactory, the governor then issued the grant in form.  On its receipt, or before (often before petition even), the party went into possession.  It was not unfrequent, of late years, to omit the formality of sending the petition to the local authorities, and it was never necessary if the governor already possessed the requisite information concerning the land and the parties.  Again: it sometimes happened that the reply of the local authorities was not explicit, or that third persons intervened, and the grant was thus for some time delayed.  With these qualifications, and covering the great majority of cases, the practice may be said to have been--1st, the petition; 2nd, the reference to the prefect, or alcalde; 3rd, his report, or informe; 4th, the grant from the governor.</p><P>"The originals of the petition and informe, and any other preliminary papers in the case, were filed by the secretary in the government archives, and with them a copy (the original being delivered to the grantee) of the grant, the whole attached so as to form one document (entitled, collectively, an `expediente').  During the governorship of Figueroa and some of his successors--that is, from the 22nd of May, 1833, to the 9th of May, 1836--the grants were likewise recorded in a book kept for that purpose (as prescibed in the regulations above referred to) in the archives.  Subsequent to that time there was no record, but a brief memorandum <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:of the grant, the expediente still filed.  Grants were also sometimes registered in the office of the prefect of the district where the lands lay; but the practice was not constant, nor the record generally in a permanent form.</p><P>"The next, and final step in the title, was the approval of the grant by the territorial deputation (that is, the local legislature afterwards, when the territory was created into a department, called the `Departmental Assembly').  For this purpose it was the governor's office to communicate the fact of the grant, and all information concerning it, to the assembly.  It was here referred to a committee (sometimes called a Committee on Vacant Lands, sometimes on Agriculture), who reported at a subsequent sitting.  The approval was seldom refused; but there are <HI REND="italics">numerous instances</HI>
054.sgm: where the governor <HI REND="italics">omitted to communicate the grant to the assembly, and it consequently remained unacted on</HI>
054.sgm:.  The approval of the assembly obtained, it was usual for the secretary to deliver to the grantee, on application, a certificate of the fact; but no other record or registration of it was kept than the written proceedings of the assembly.  <HI REND="italics">There are, no doubt, several instances where the approval was, in point of fact, obtained, but no certificate applied for</HI>
054.sgm:; and as the journals of the assembly, now remaining in the archives, are very imperfect, it can hardly be doubted that <HI REND="italics">many grants</HI>
054.sgm: have received the approval of the assembly; <HI REND="italics">but no record of the fact now exists</HI>
054.sgm:.  Many grants were passed upon, and approved by the assembly, in the winter and spring of 1846, as I discovered by the loose memoranda, apparently made by the clerk of the assembly for future entry, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:referring to the grants by their numbers--sometimes a dozen or more on a single small piece of paper--but of which I could find no other record.</p><P>"There was not, as far as I could learn, any regular surveys made of grants in California up to the time of the cessation of the former government; there was no public or authorised surveyor in the country.  The grant usually contained a direction that the grantee should receive judicial possession of the land `from the proper magistrate' (usually the nearest alcalde) in virtue of the grant, and that the boundaries of the tract should then be designated by the functionary with `suitable landmarks.'  But this injunction was usually complied with only by procuring the attendance of the magistrate, to give judicial possession, according to the verbal description contained in the grant.  Some of the old grants have been subsequently surveyed by an officer appointed for that purpose by the governor.  I did not see any official record of such surveys, or understand there was any.  The <HI REND="italics">perfecting of the title</HI>
054.sgm: I suppose to have been accomplished when the grant <HI REND="italics">received the concurrence of the assembly, all provisions of the law, and of the colonisation regulations of the supreme government, pre-requisites to the title being `definitively valid' `having been fulfilled.'  These, I think, must be counted complete titles</HI>
054.sgm:.</p><P>As to Mission property, he labours to show by law, practice, and precedent, that the missionaries had no power to sell or assign; proving that those establishments were subject to be secularised at will, reverting or vesting in the sovereign or supreme government; thus opening all those sales or assignments, and leaving the purchases <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:either at the mercy of the American Government, or to look to those astute parties to whom they paid over the purchase-money.  He says:</p><P>"I took much pains, both in California and Mexico, to assure myself of the situation, in a legal and proprietary point of view, of the former great establishments known as the Missions of California.  It had been supposed that the lands they occupied were grants, held as the property of the Church, or of the Mission establishments as corporations.  Such, however, was not the case.  All the Missions in Upper California were established under the direction, and mainly at the expense of the government; and the missionaries there never had any other rights than to the occupation and use of the lands for missionary purposes, and at the pleasure of the government.  This is shown by the history and principles of their foundation, by the laws in relation to them, by the constant practice of the government towards them; and, in fact, by the rules of the Franciscan order, which forbid its members to possess property.<ANCHOR ID="n14-3">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-3">Although, as Mr. Jones says, the Missions are now governed and administered by the Franciscan order, they were transferred to them from the Jesuits when the royal decree for abolishing that order was enforced in New Spain; but it was the Jesuits, who, under license from the Viceroy, commenced the reduction of California in 1697, by the establishment of fifteen Missions in that country.  At the time of the transfer three were suppressed, and the remainder put in charge of the Franciscan monks of the College of San Fernando, in Mexico; hence sometimes called Fernandinos.</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>"It was the custom throughout New Spain (and other parts of the Spanish colonies also) to secularise, or to subvert the Mission establishments, at the discretion of the ruling political functionary; and this not as an act of ruling political functionary; and this not as an act of arbitrary power, but in the exercise of an acknowledged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:ownership and authority.  The great establishments of Sonora, I have been told, were divided between the white settlements and settlements of the Indian pupils, or neophytes of the establishments.  In Texas, the Missions were broken up and the Indians dispersed, and the lands have been granted to white settlers.  In New Mexico, I am led to suppose the Indian pupils of the Missions, or their descendants, still in great part occupy the old establishments; and other parts are occupied by white settlers, in virtue of grants or sales.  Their undisputed exercise of this authority over all the Mission establishments, and whatever property was pertinent to them, is certain.</p><P>"The liability of the Missions of Upper California to be thus dealt with at the pleasure of the government, does not rest only on the argument to be drawn from this constant and uniform practice; it was inherent in their foundation--a condition of their establishment.  A belief has prevailed, and it is so stated in all the works I have examined, which treat historically of the Missions of that country, that the first act which looked to their secularisation, and especially the first act by which any authority was conferred on the local government for that purpose, or over their temporalities, was an act of Mexican Congress of 17th August, 1833.  Such, however, is not the case; their secularisation, their subversion, was looked for in their foundation; and I do not perceive that the local authority (certainly not the supreme authority) has ever been without that lawful jurisdiction over them, unless subsequent to the colonisation regulations of 21st November, 1828, which temporarily exempted Mission lands from colonisation.  I quote from a letter of `Instructions to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:Commandant of the new Establishments of San Diego and Monterey,' given by Viceroy Bucareli, 17th August, 1773: `Article 15.  When it shall happen that a Mission is to be formed into a pueblo (or village), the commandant will proceed to reduce it to the civil and economical government which, according to the laws, is observed by other villages of this kingdom; then giving it a name, and declaring for its patron the saint under whose memory and protection it was founded.'</p><P>"The right, then, to remodel these establishments at pleasure, and convert them into towns and villages, subject to the known policy and laws which governed settlements of that description, we see was a principle of their foundation.  Articles 7 and 10 of the same `Letter of Instructions' show us also that it was a part of the plan of the Missions that their condition should be thus changed, that they were regarded only as the nucleus and bases of communities, to be thereafter emancipated, acquire proprietary rights, and administer their own affairs; and that it was the duty of the governor to choose their sites, and direct the construction and arrangement of their edifices, with a view to their convenient expansion into towns and cities.  And not only was this general revolution of the establishments thus early contemplated and provided for, but meantime the governor had authority to reduce their possessions by grants within and without, and to change their condition by detail.  The same series of instructions authorised the governer to grant lands, either in community or individually, to the Indians of the Missions, in and about their settlement on the Mission lands, and also to make grants to white persons.  The governor was likewise authorised, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:at an early day, to make grants to soldiers who should marry Indian women trained in the Missions; and the first grant (and only one I found on record) under this authorisation, was of a tract near the Mission edifice of Carmel, near Monterey.  The authorisation given to the captains of <HI REND="italics">presidios</HI>
054.sgm: to grant lands within two leagues of their posts, expressly restrains them within that distance, so as to leave the territory beyond--though all beyond was nominally attached to one or other of the Missions--at the disposition of the superior guardians of royal property.  In brief, every fact, every act of government, and principle of law applicable to the case which I have met in this investigation, go to show that the Missions of Upper California were never from the first reckoned other than government establishments, or the founding of them to work any change in the ownership of the soil, which continued in, and at the disposal of the Crown or its representatives.  This position was also confirmed, if it had needed confirmation, by the opinions of high legal and official authorities in Mexico.  The Missions--speaking collectively of priests and pupils--had the <HI REND="italics">usufruct</HI>
054.sgm:, the priests the administration of it, the whole resumable, or otherwise disposable, at the will of the Crown or its representatives."</p><P>Mr. Jones's attention was also specially directed to inquire as to whether in any of the alleged grants, or all grants in general (under the Mexican Government), or in California in particular, there were not reservations as to mines of gold, silver, quicksilver, and other minerals; but it appears that the Mexican laws regulating colonisation do not enjoin any such reservation in their grants, nor was there any such contained in the few <HI REND="italics">bona&circ;fide</HI>
054.sgm: documents <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:that came under his inspection.  After an able and lucid review of Spanish and Mexican law, and practices regulating and bearing upon colonisation, he thus concludes:</p><P>"Having met, Sir, as far as in my power, the several inquiries set forth in the letter of instructions you were pleased to honour me with, my attention was turned, as far as they were not already answered, to the more detailed points of examination furnished me, with your approbation, by the Commissioner of Public Lands.  The very minute information contemplated by those instructions it would have been impossible, as you justly anticipated, to obtain in the irregular and confused state of the archives and courts of record.  My examination, moreover, was sufficient to show me that such minute and exact information, on many of the heads proposed, is not attainable at all, and that the only mode of approximating it must be through such measures as will produce a general registration of written titles, and verbal proof of possession where titles are wanting, followed or accompanied by a general survey; by such means only can an <HI REND="italics">approximation</HI>
054.sgm: be made to the minute information sought, of the character, extent, position, and date, particularly of the old grants of California.</p><P>"The grants in California, I am bound to say, are mostly perfect titles,--that is, the holders possess their property by titles that under the law that created them were equivalent to patents from our government; and those which are not perfect--that is, which lack some formality, or evidence of completeness--have the same equity as those which are perfect, and were and would have been equally respected under the government which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:has passed away; of course I allude to grants made in good faith, and not to simulated grants, if there be any such issued, since the persons who make them cease from their functions in that respect.</p><P>"I think the state of land titles in that country will allow the public lands to be ascertained, and the private lands set apart by judicious measures, with little difficulty.  Any measure calculated to discredit, or cause to be distrusted, the general character of titles there, besides <HI REND="italics">the alarm and anxiety</HI>
054.sgm: which it would create amongst the ancient population and <HI REND="italics">present holders of property</HI>
054.sgm:, would, I believe, also retard the substantial improvement of that country: a title discredited is not destroyed, but every one is afraid to touch it, or, at all events, to invest labour and money in improvements that rest on a suspected tenure; the holder is afraid to improve; and others are afraid to purchase, or, if they do purchase at the discredited value, willing only to make inconsiderable investments in it.  The pressure of population and the force of circumstances will soon operate to break up the existing large tracts into farms of such extent as the nature of the country will allow of, and the wants of the community require; and this under circumstances, and with such assurance of tenure, as will warrant those substantial improvements that the thrift and prosperity of the country in other respects invite.</p><P>"I think the rights of the government will be fully secured, and the interests and permanent prosperity of all classes in that country best consulted, <HI REND="italics">by no other measure in relation to private property</HI>
054.sgm: than an authorised survey, according to the grants; where the grants are modern, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:since the accession of the Mexican Government, reserving the overplus, or, according to ancient possession, where it dates from the time of the Spanish Government, and the written evidence of the grant is lost, or does not afford data for survey.  But providing that in any case where, from the opinion of the proper law officer, or agent of the government in the state, or from information in any way received, there may be reason to suppose a grant invalid, the government (or a proper officer of it) may direct a suit to be instituted for its annulment."</p><P>The importance of the subject must be my excuse for quoting so freely from this report, which, while it appears to treat the subject in a spirit of candour and impartiality, is replete with internal evidence that it was framed at once with a view of relieving government from a delicate and difficult dilemma, by suggestive expedients of a mild and temporising character, and of annihilating the pretensions of missionary grants, which claim to be so numerous and extensive, dealing with them in a special pleading and black-letter temper that foreshadows the doom of Church property in California; the alienation of which, independent of sectarian prejudices, would be a highly popular measure amongst Americans in their rapacious greed for land in the new territory.  The diffusion of the report, indicating, as it does, the course government is likely to pursue, has already had the effect of "oil on the troubled waters," allaying the violent feeling that existed amongst the land and lot speculators--a much more numerous class than could at first have been imagined, multiplied prodigiously by the myriads of town lot purchasers in the several towns and cities <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:started throughout the country--who, in the bitterness of their apprehension, openly avowed their determination of fomenting and joining in a counter-revolution rather than have their properties, for which they paid so dearly, wrested from them.  There is no danger, however, that matters will come to violent extremities; for, independent of the troublous consequences that would result from a strict and stern line of procedure, it would deal a fatal blow at that indomitable spirit of enterprise, so distinguishing a characteristic of the nation, which, in the short space of two years has reared up a great commercial territory on the silent and unfrequented shores of the Northern Pacific, giving birth to a city without a parallel in ancient or modern times; springing, as it were, from the cranium of the volcanic mountains, which constitute its marvellous wealth, completely accoutred in the full panoply of trade, commerce, and science.  In such a case a wise government can afford to make large compromises and concessions, rather than crush and ruin a large community, who made their investments in good faith, and who deserve so well of the parent country for their unprecedented energy and perseverance.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Business at Williams's Ranch--Sycamore Slough--State of the Trail--An unenviable Night's Board and Lodging--Sleetstorm--How we got over the Slough--A better Night's Quarters--An unwelcome Visit from Wild Cattle--They abduct our Oxen--Our Pursuit; its Difficulties, Dangers, and Success--How we dealt with the Truants--Feel the want of Water while trudging through the Mud--The Lone Oak--Mr. Harbin's Station--Cheap Beef--Mr. Harbin supplies with a Party to recover our missing Cattle--Their Mode of Procedure--Accept an Offer of a Morning's Amusement--Lassoing Wild Horses--Description of the Feat--Californian equestrian Accoutrements--The Sequel--Fatal Accident--Daring Feat of Horsemanship and Horse-training--Travel by Night to make up for lost Time--Reach Mr. Harbin's Head-quarters on Cash Creek--Californian Swine--Profitable and secure Stock--Scarcity of Sheep, and the Cause--Peculiar Conformation of the Rams--Wood-choppers on the Sacramento and its Tributaries--Shocking Aspect of the Plains as we approximate the City--How Sacramento grew in my short Absence--A Winter's Effect on the Style of Architecture--The City during the Flood--Evaporation <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
054.sgm: Drainage--The March of Enterprise--Scarcity of Lime--Its domestic Consequences--Feeling on my Transition from Nomadic to City Life--Hotels and Pandemoniums increase in a like Ratio--Absence of Churches and Clergymen--A Field for Moral Reflections--The Press at Sacramento--Its pharisaical Conduct--An editorial Leader--Its natural Tendency--Editorial Puffs; how manufactured--Sacramento and its probable Destiny--How accounted for--Steam Navigation on the River--A public Convenience a Private Mine of Wealth--A moderate Calculation--A Supper on board the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
054.sgm: --Prodigious Gastronomic Performance--"Odorous" Comparisons.</p><P>There was great bustle about Mr. Williams's ranch, what with the calling of waggon companies and packmen, and the arrival of small launches.  An active trade was going on in buying, selling, and exchanging mules, horses, and oxen, and a lively bibulous business in the alcoholic line; but our favourite beverage was not to be had for "love or money," there being no dairy.  The calves were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:permitted to run with the cows, so that we were reluctantly obliged to return to our old fare.  The afternoon became exceedingly cold, the wind increasing to a furious gale, spitting sleet so bitterly that we could not face it only that we were proceeding in excellent shelter along the river skirting, which was not altogether without its drawbacks, for now and then a dozed and rotten limb, fractured by the gale, would come smashing down amongst the branches, to our imminent risk.  However, we managed to go on tolerably well until we came to what is called the "Sycamore Slough," a gut of still water, connecting the river with a laguna, which extends the greater part of the distance back to the mountains, expanding considerably in some places, but never attaining a great depth.  It is thinly fringed for a short distance by the timber from which it takes its name, the remainder of its shores being low sticky swamps, covered with tule.</p><P>In summer you can follow in the trail by the river edge, but it was now so deep we were forced to diverge, and travel up along it for several miles, the cattle constantly miring, the waggon-wheels working the entire way up to the hubs in mud.  Still we struggled on till night, in expectation of reaching some spot that would afford a little feed, but were not so fortunate, a mud-hole arresting our progress in the worst and most inhospitable part of the marsh, where the state of the ground would not admit of the pitching of a tent, without an atom of firewood, the raw wind and sleet driving amongst us with most chilling effect.  There was no shift but to chain our exhausted animals to the waggon-wheels--otherwise they would stray back in search of grass and shelter--we ourselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:being obliged to put up with the cold comfort of a raw pork supper, and a night's repose, cramped and huddled up, in a sitting posture, in the waggons.</p><P>The morning opened with a fierce hailstorm, the rain that had fallen during the night rendering the ground so soft that, with our starved and half-famished animals, it appeared a hopeless expectation to think of moving; nor could we budge an inch until we completely emptied the waggons, carrying the contents on our backs about three miles, to where the crossing was practicable, then returning and assisting the oxen.  When we got them as far as the crossing we gave them a rest, while we again shouldered our loads, and waded, waist deep, with empty stomachs, over the laguna, which was about five hundred yards wide, the water intensely cold, and the sleet so penetrating that, by the time we returned, we were in a chattering, if not a communicative mood.  However, move forward we should, prefacing the attempt by cutting down numerous bundles of tule, and strewing it thickly the entire breadth of the waggon trail, to form a foot road for the oxen, as well as one for the wheels; but, after several ineffectual trials, we had to unyoke them, finding it altogether impossible to get them to pull evenly and simultaneously, for at the time one yoke would get on tolerably firm footing, those behind or before them would be floundering belly deep in the mire.  We even had great difficulty in getting them singly, and unattached, as far as the water, where our chief trouble ended, the bottom of the laguna being comparatively firm, enabling them to ford it without an accident.  We had a long and laborious job in getting over the waggons by hand; but the hauling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:and spoking had one good effect in quickening and warming the circulation, which was checked and almost frozen up by the cold and exposure.  Fortunately the land on the opposite side was more elevated, enabling us to put in our teams again, and reach a good camping spot early in the evening, where we amply indemnified ourselves for our late privations.</p><P>Soon after, in the early part of the night, we were aroused by the lowing and bellowing of wild cattle, which is easily distinguishable from that of the American breed; and as we offered no interruption, they kept approximating, attracted by the strange oxen, until, by the tumult, we began to fear they might trample down our tents.  However, a few shots fired in the air, that we might not cripple any of our own in the dark, sent them scampering off in wild confusion; but when morning dawned we discovered, to our dismay, that they carried off in their retreat all our steers, notwithstanding the fatigues and sufferings of the two previous days.  Their tracks showed the direction they took; but to the view, bounded only by the horizon, there was no appearance of their whereabouts.  One course alone remained to pursue--to follow up the footmarks, which we did for about five or six miles, when a dark streak, about as far more ahead, discovered the herd we were in quest of, numbering, at least, one thousand head, taking in calves and yearlings.  They permitted us to come close enough to see that our cattle were amongst them, but how to disconnect them was the question, for whenever we attempted closing on them they broke away in a burst, outstripping in fleetness our heavy, lumbering beasts, who, however, commingled with them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:again as soon as they stopped.  We had well-nigh despaired of regaining them, but, as a last resource, divided our small party into four groups, approaching them at four opposite points, and closing cautiously, which plan, though attended with great danger, succeeded admirably, detaching sixteen, who, I may say, surrendered at discretion--being left completely isolated by the impetuous burst the wild cattle finally made--on seeing themselves hemmed round by our manoeuvre.  We abandoned the balance as irrecoverable, dividing what we secured equally amongst the four waggons, for some only got one yoke, while others got their entire team.</p><P>It was too late to start when we returned to camp, so we put the truants in chains until morning, and made a twilight start, right through the heart of the prairie, our detour up the slough having separated us from the river--a circumstance we felt very inconvenient, even at that early period of the season, for though the ground was deep and slushy, we could not get a drop of water all day.  Travelling up to a very late hour of the night before we made the "Lone Oak," a large tree, standing alone on the vast plain, close by a pond of water, which forms a sort of natural tavern to the wayfarer; not far from which a Mr. Harbin has what may be properly denominated a draft farm, without any other permanent fixture than a large corral, his house and head-quarters being about twenty miles below, and as he thins the stock, by sale or slaughter, he replenishes it from the upper station, where he keeps immense herds of cattle and horses; and it so happened that he and his partner--a young Californian (whose name I forget)--were then upon a drafting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:expedition.  I was rather surprised in the morning on seeing a tent so contiguous under the arms of the Lone Oak, from one of whose branches was suspended an entire beeve; and as soon as I saw the inhabitants of the tent amove, I went over to inquire if there was any of the meat for sale, when Mr. Harbin told me "they shot it for their own use, and not to sell; but as they had more than they required, I could have what I wanted without any charge;" at the same time marking a portion of the best part of the hind-quarter for an Indian to cut off, that would at least weigh one hundred weight.</p><P>After making my acknowledgments for the kind favour, I told him of our mishap, and proposed hiring horses for our men to go and hunt the remainder of our cattle from the wild drove, which were then within view, not much over two miles away.  But he obligingly said he would lend us his Indians, who would perform the task with much greater celerity, without the same risk; for inexperienced hands would be in danger not only of getting the horses gored, but of losing their own lives.  I again gratefully thanked him for his great civility, and collected our men to follow the Indians, that we might drive the cattle to camp as soon as they were detached.  The Californian--a fine, agile, athletic young fellow--rode out for the mere fun of the thing, and certainly was more efficient than the whole of the Indians, who adopted somewhat similar tactics to those we ourselves employed the day before--outflanking the herd, by making a circuit sufficiently wide to prevent alarm, preconcerting that "when they got directly opposite us both infantry and cavalry should charge;" and as we moved, down they came with whirlwind speed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:directing their course to where they could discern a foreign oxen.  The Californian cattle immediately broke away with the swiftness of antelopes, leaving our steers as cleanly separated as heavy wheat from the chaff in a gust of wind.  They then rode round and gathered them into a cluster for us, after which we got them home without any trouble.</p><P>We all spent the evening jovially together; and as they would not take any return for their services, we endeavoured to make some slight remuneration for favours conferred, by the production of some excellent brandy, that we carried along with us; but next morning, as we were about hitching up, to proceed on our journey, my Californian friend invited us to wait a few hours, to see some sport, as he said they intended to lass, and back one of their finest horses.  We gladly delayed to witness the sport, and got a good start towards the herd, while he went to make his preparations; and, as he dashed up after us, mounted on a fiery steed, divested of coat and vest, his broad sombrero compressed on his handsome brow, the <HI REND="italics">facha</HI>
054.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n15-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: tightened round his waist, the <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
054.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n15-2">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: coiled in his hand, and a pair of huge spurs, with rowels large and stout enough to mount a small piece of ordnance, he presented a subject worthy of the pencil of Edwin Landseer.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1"><HI REND="italics">Facha</HI>
054.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-2"><HI REND="italics">Riata</HI>
054.sgm:<P>In his first charge he did not get within throwing distance, as the destined captive, with about six others, headed the flight, while those they outstripped retarded the pursuit; but when he got through the rear ranks he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:slackened his pace for a few moments, when those in advance wheeled round, puffing and snorting wildly from their distended nostrils, as with proudly arched necks, flowing manes, and extended tails, they circuitously returned towards the main body, trotting with that grand majestic action which, with all our art, the trained horse can never be made to attain, and only faintly imitate, their eyes lit up with the fire of freedom, and tossing their heads from side to side with an air of haughty independence.  Watching an averse toss, our friend, with the quickness of thought, made his second dash, gaining wonderfully by the opportunity and the suddenness of his start, and throwing in mid career, effected the lasso,<ANCHOR ID="n15-3">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: being obliged, however, to let go his hold, from the rapid dart the lassoed horse made when the noose got over his head, but still following him at full speed, until his pace, being somewhat checked as he came upon the herd, his pursuer made what I can only compare to a dive, without dismounting, and catching the end of the <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
054.sgm:, gave it a turn round the horn of the saddle,<ANCHOR ID="n15-4">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: reining in at the same time; again giving the spurs for a spurt, and soon after reining in again; in fact, playing with his captive as an angler would a salmon, until he brought about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:exhaustion, the noose acting all the while on the windpipe.  The struggle was a tough one; but, in less than one hour from the first charge, the wild horse was a prisoner within the corral.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-3">Many people (as I was myself) were under the impression that " <HI REND="italics">lasso</HI>
054.sgm: " was the name of the instrument or cord; but it is called " <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
054.sgm:."  <HI REND="italics">Lasso</HI>
054.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-4">All Californian and Mexican saddles are made with an upright fixture in front, about nine inches long, called a horn, either a natural part of the tree, or so firmly attached, that it cannot be broken off without tearing the saddle apart.  The front of the saddle is made particularly strong, to give stability to the horn, which is indispensable in lassoing wild animals, the strain being too much at times for the strongest arm.  It is used also for slinging the rifle, or holsters, and the <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
054.sgm:<P>There was now another rope, but round his neck, and by means of both he was drawn up short to a tree, that formed one of the corners of the corral, and a bridle, with a bit of fearful leverage, got into his mouth, after a hard tussle; but the saddle could not be properly secured until another noose was got on one of his legs and the others then tangled in the ropes.  The coil of the <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
054.sgm:, in this operation, was made smaller, with one edge placed on the toes--the foot being cocked up--the other leaning against the shin, the man about to throw it keeping his leg swinging, until, as the horse gave either a kick or a high bound, he gave the foot a quick jerk and discharged it.  The Californian succeeded in the third attempt, and so managed in cramping the horse's legs that the saddle was adjusted and girthed up with a broad haircloth sirsingle, impossible to burst from its elasticity, and affording the rider a place for sticking his spurs in, which, together with their skill in horsemanship, makes his seat next thing to a fixture.  As soon as the horse was fully accoutred, an Indian--a sort of professional in the calling--was put up, the animal humping his back and plunging as well as he could in the mesh-work that surrounded him.  As he got calmer, he was gradually extricated and led out of the corral, with an Indian holding each cheek of the bridle, and then liberated; after a few steps, finding the legs free, he set to plunging in the most violent manner, but was brought up after a little by a liberal use of the powerful bridle.  He then stood <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:stockstill for about half a minute, until the rider gave him a slight prick, when he bounded away with a mad impulse, every few strides making a wild jump all fours, with his head doubled down, and then rushing forward and kicking out fiercely.  At one moment he appeared to have got complete self-control, darting off with lightning speed over a considerable space, but was again brought back on his haunches by a violent pull, when he commenced rearing, kicking, plunging, and buck-jumping without intermission for full ten minutes.  When at length he did pause, from physical exhaustion, we remarked the rider drooping forward, as if from fatigue or a strain, but not recovering himself with his usual celerity, the Californian ran up to ascertain the cause, and found, to his dismay, the unfortunate Indian quite dead, held in his seat by the spurs, some internal rupture having taken place during the struggle.  There was no external effusion of blood that would likely have followed the bursting of a blood vessel in the lungs, so that we were not able to decide on the immediate cause of his death.</p><P>A feeling of gloom and sadness at this fatal occurrence overcast us all, except the Californian, who seemed animated and excited by a feeling of revenge and retribution, as, leading the horse back to the corral, assisted by the other Indians, he swore he would suffer the same fate or break his froward temper, from which resolution all our entreaties failed to dissuade him; while, in a spirit of fair play, he even took off the bridle and slackened the girth to let him recruit during the delay of an early dinner.  This time, in accordance with a suggestion of mine, they blindfolded the animal while arranging his caparisons, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:which, as I anticipated, ensured his passiveness: a much easier bridle, too, was substituted, our friend vaulting into the saddle with all the confidence of invincibility.  The horse gave a few awkward leaps when he found himself again bestrode, and then stood extended in a sort of tremble, from which even the spurs could scarce make him move, being got outside by a series of nervous starts, that showed the terror which possessed him.  The Californian then (having previously headed him towards a copse of low brush, about knee high, which extended more than a mile) reached forward and pulled the shawl from his eyes; the bandage removed, the noble animal gazed about for a few moments with a strained look of bewilderment, and then, rearing forward, set off with a vigour unabated by his previous exertion.  Nor was he restrained in the slightest degree, but rather urged, as he tore through the scrub with terrific velocity; sods and sticks flying from his heels in showers, he soon gained the clear plain, and with head stretched forward, seemed to make fresh efforts to fly from beneath his rider; but nature's energies at length began to yield and the pace to slacken; his head was soon after plucked up, and his course directed straight towards where we stood, the rider hustling and spurring him as if at the finish of a race.  Ere long the close compact stride was changed into a spread, sprawling gallop as he laboured through the sticky ground; and, by the time the poor brute reached the waggons, he was run to a perfect stand-still, panting and vanquished, the tame slave of his future master, no more to revel unrestrained, or gambol in the sportive wantonness of primitive freedom; the sparkling eye, the curved crest, the elastic step of the prairie's pride <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:being thenceforward doomed to give place to the dull, passive, comeliness and gait of a daily drudge.</p><P>We left about one o'clock with a determination of reaching Cash Creek, where Mr. Harbin and two other rancheros have established themselves, even though it involved the necessity of travelling by night to do so.  The country became rolling and undulating, covered with luxuriant verdure, but saturated with moisture in the dips and level spaces.  A range of bluffs arose betwixt us and the coast mountains, along the ridges of which elk and wild cattle roamed about and fed in unusual numbers, while in the low grounds along which we travelled the wild geese would scarcely condescend to make a lane for us to pass through.  The <HI REND="italics">habitans</HI>
054.sgm: were all abed when we arrived; but the noise of our geeing and whoing soon brought a glimmer to the windows and a blaze to the hearth, that quickly awakened the savoury music of the pan--sounds much more agreeable than would have been the piping of the great original Pan on the occasion.  Here we found milk galore, butter in abundance, with elk-meat, beef, pork, venison without stint, and a pair of truly pretty girls to shed a charm over the dispensations--a charm co-existent with creation, as potent, as delightful, but one that came upon us with a spell akin to divinity, as their sweet and tender tones fell softly and suasively on ears so long attuned to gruff, discordant voices, deliciously enhancing the kind and delicate attentiveness of female minstration so unexpectedly rendered to men almost weaned from the habit of such social beatitudes.</p><P>There were plenty of swine rooting and grunting about the ranches on Cash Creek; the first I saw in California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:of an excellent breed and in prime condition, though left entirely to their own resources.  It is a matter of surprise that all the rancheros do not keep them, multiplying as they do so rapidly, and commanding so high a price; besides which, there is a peculiar security in that kind of property, as the Indians there, like the Jews, have a repugnance to the use of their flesh, and, therefore, never interfere with them; while the coyotes--whether it be from a similar disrelish, or a dread of attacking them--do not molest them in the slightest; not so, however, with sheep, which they persecute with such an insatiable rapacity, that very few, indeed, undertake the trouble and risk of breeding them.  Those that engage in the pursuit have Indian herds, who live out amongst the flocks all the time, with a sort of sheep-dog that is littered and reared on the prairie, and never wanders from his charge in search of domestic tit-bits other than those to be had about the Indian herd's primitive establishment.  The sheep are of a very inferior description, stunted in growth, with coarse wool, and tasteless flesh; but the ram is remarkable from his frontal conformation, never having less than two pair of horns, and not unfrequently three and a half; one pair standing out in the ordinary way, two curled closely along the jaws and side of the head, the odd one, like that assigned to the unicorn, jutting from the centre of the forehead.</p><P>The plains about Cash Creek are vastly extensive, pleasantly wooded, offering a fine field for settlement, but subject to that dropsical endemic that mars systematic or extensive cultivation.  The trail from this point was very bad, and our progress not much above a snail's pace, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:from the depth to which our wheels sunk in the slushy soil, even though we selected the highest lines, irrespective of direction.  We struck the Sacramento again near the mouth of Cash Creek, where commences the encampments of wood-choppers, who continue in an almost unbroken line all the way down to the city, all actively employed; the heavy timber making fine lumber, the lighter limbs and branches firewood, which they get to market in rafts;<ANCHOR ID="n15-5">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: the former commanding a profitable price at the saw-mills below, which has induced many of the emigrants from the Western States, frontiermen, and necessarily familiar with the axe, to go into the chopping business along Feather River and the Juba,--the first thing that tended to reduce the exorbitant rates of lumber.  Vegetation, though we proceeded south, was much more backward than above, as the land, being more depressed in level with respect to the river, was longer submerged, great tracts being still under water.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-5">A new era in rafting has arisen with the other wonders of California, rafts being now constructed on Columbia River, Oregon, put out to sea, and towed by sailing-vessels along the coast to Francisco; the first time it ever was attempted on the open ocean.  Should it come on to blow, the tow-line is passed forward, and the vessel hove to during the gale, riding as comfortably behind the raft as she would to leeward of a breakwater.  It should be observed, however, that wind almost always prevails there from the north to north-west, making it a free wind the entire passage.</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>We now began to meet numerous ox and mule carcases, drowned in the winter floods; but our last day's journey displayed a spectacle unequalled in character, our route, for many miles, being a perfect labyrinth through the rotting remains of cattle, emitting a thick putrid stench, amounting to vapour, that almost made the atmosphere palpable with the sickening abominations, and must have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:rendered those fertile districts valueless the ensuing season for either hay or pasture.  Those were the animals of the late emigration, worn down and enfeebled by the dreadful fatigues of the journey, which were sent on arrival to the most contiguous pasture, and, weakly as they were, soon were engulphed in the swelling waters.</p><P>I have already twice noticed the city of Sacramento, and yet I must be pardoned for again saying a few words on its wonderful increase in size, and improvement in appearance and reality; streams of busy life flowing where I left filthy suburbs; the old streets elongated, the two principal ones, which run parallel, being connected at regular and convenient interval, with cross streets laid out with great regularity, and that fronting the river extending north and south the full length of the long line of shipping, while innumerable infantile thorough-fares were indicated by the scattered houses that stood at intervals along their margins; all the gossamer edifices, of which the city was composed when I left it in the fall, having vanished before the frowns of winter, like so many gaudy butterflies, making room for handsome, substantial lumber buildings, firmly put together, relieved by light balconies, tastefully constructed, with fanciful balustrades, supported on neatly carved brackets and covered with decorative verandahs, ornamental tracery mouldings twining round the windows and underneath the projecting barges, altogether conferring a graceful picturesque appearance to the whole.  They are raised on log piles, intended to be sufficiently elevated to place them above the level of the floods; but the very highest were reached by the late inundations, which converted the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:streets into canals, too deep for either wading or riding; so that during its continuance, like Venice, all communication or transition was by means of boats, without, however, a dry spot to form a Rialto where merchants could congregate.</p><P>Though the waters had subsided to their ordinary seasonal level before my arrival, large pools remained in various places unabsorbed, into which all the floating nuisances had receded, which were now reeking with foetid odours, presenting objects equally repugnant to the sight.  Many of those pools were underneath the houses, serving as receptacles for the slops and nuisances of the families, without a chance of draining, from the position of the city, and, as I have already remarked, must be highly prejudicial to the health of the inhabitants, who boldly maintain that the absorption and evaporation are so great, that they supersede the necessity of sewerage; an opinion I will not stay to combat beyond the extent of its personal effects, being merely a bird of passage.</p><P>The reader will remember I recorded the particulars of a <HI REND="italics">fe&circ;te</HI>
054.sgm: that took place the previous fall, on the opening of the first hotel, conducted according to usages and requirements of civilised life; but betwixt September, 1849, and February, 1850, no less a number than seventeen of a similar class, together with others of humbler pretensions, had sprung up, and were in good business; a circumstance calculated to demonstrate the marvellous march of enterprise, intercourse, and settlement in California.  I put up at the City Hotel, from a feeling that my participation in the opening feast constituted a claim on my patronage; and everything, I must say, was well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:conducted, except the attendance in the dormitory department, where you were obliged to be content with the chance accommodation that was most stingily distributed, and keep a sharp look-out that some more neglected and unceremonious neighbour did not invade your cell, carrying off water, towel, basin, brushes--in fact, "leave not a <HI REND="italics">rack</HI>
054.sgm: behind."  The want of lime leads to a dreadful nuisance, in the facilities those odious vermin, rats and mice, are afforded in secreting and disporting themselves, for, in the absence of mortar and putty, ceilings and framed partitions are covered with a strong grey calico, over which they gallop with a noise that at first is perfectly startling, and always annoying.  My first night on a regular bed, in a close pent-up room, after the nomadic life I had been leading, was far from being one of repose; the compound atmosphere of fumes and exhalations being such a stranger to my lungs, that my respiration was quick and irregular, while the incessant tumult of my new neighbours was so perfectly distracting, that, when a feverish doze did once happen to close my eyelids, I started up frantically, under the impression that I was nailed into a coffin, with the impatient rats running over the lid in search of an aperture to get at their favourite repast.</p><P>I must not omit noticing how gambling-houses increased about in the same ratio as hotels, exhibiting the usual sequence of demand and supply.  The increased number of travellers, indicated by the multiplication of hotels, requiring an additional area for recreation, had new pandemoniums fitted up for their accommodation; but I searched about and looked over the roofs of the city in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:vain for some emblem of religion--some external evidence of Christianity--some stately steeple or tapering spire rearing its hallowed head amidst this crowd of worldly edifices--some house or tent where "two or three might gather together in the Lord's name;" but no such place existed in Sacramento, nor was there a regular clergyman of any creed within its precincts; yet zealous missionaries penetrate with hope amongst the most savage Indians.  Let me ask, then, was it absolute despair that caused them to shun those Christianised children of Mammon?  The press, whose duty it should be to correct and improve this state of society, I regret to say were sadly wanting in that high moral duty; for, instead of wielding the scourge with the chastening sincerity of honest reformers, they winked at and indirectly encouraged the great leviathan vice, which sheltered every other species of depravity beneath its infernal wings.  I might, to be sure, take up a newspaper and find a mild deprecation timidly shrinking into the corners of one page; while staring out on the opposite one, in the most flaunting and attractive type, would be a " <HI REND="italics">true story</HI>
054.sgm:," calculated to sow the black seed even in virgin soil, uncontaminated by a germ of indigenous vice; in illustration of which I will copy verbatim an article--a leader--in the principal Sacramento journal:</p><P>"GRAND STROKE OF GOOD FORTUNE. "A man, lately returned from the diggins, where he made the respectable rise of 5000 dollars, turned into one of those fashionable haunts where gaming in its most attractive guise is carried on; after looking on for a little, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:his good genius prompted him to try his luck; so he sat down, and in less than one hour won the great sum of 100,000 dollars; but foolishly persevering, in expectation of achieving the fame of `breaking the bank' (a thing, we need scarcely say, not to be accomplished, from the large capital those gentlemen invest in their concerns), his pile became reduced to 50,000 dollars, when, with a very commendable prudence, he transferred it into `button park,' and took his leave.  We regret to say that this fascinating vice is greatly on the increase in this country."</p><P>It is unnecessary to add, that the whole story was a wilful lie from beginning to end, being merely a puffing advertisement, for a "valuable consideration," to forward the vice it hypocritically pretended to deplore.  There can be little doubt about the tendency of the article, or its intent to entrap some other miner, who has made "a respectable rise," to yield to the promptings of his "good genius," which, pointing to one of those "fashionable haunts," bids him enter, and win "100,000 dollars, if only he can refrain from attempting the <HI REND="italics">impossible achievement</HI>
054.sgm: of breaking the bank."  What a pity it is so "fascinating a vice should be on the increase in the country."  Another complaint is sustainable against the press of a similar complexion--I allude to its habit of lending itself to the propagation of those baseless stories, got up by speculators to advance the lot market of some "city in buckram," started solely with a view of gulling the public, causing a rush of miners to the neighbourhood of a new ranch, by calling public attention to "the recent discoveries at--Creek, where several leads were found, yielding 6 ounces <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:to the hand, of the purest metal, specimens of which can be seen at this office, a friend having favoured the editor with the <HI REND="italics">inspection of a few</HI>
054.sgm:;" the price of the fabulous puff, which most generally takes, hurrying hundreds off from the place they were making average wages, to this extraordinary creek, where they work their six days without gaining the sixth part of an ounce, and then lie "like <HI REND="italics">yallow--</HI>
054.sgm:," as they say, to entrap fresh pigeons, and get themselves reimbursed for lost time by getting high prices for valueless claims.<ANCHOR ID="n15-6">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-6">I must say, that on my return from the Sandwich Islands, I found the tone and character of the press much improved, the original proprietors--who were not actuated by any higher feeling than making it a marketable investment--having in most cases sold out to men possessed of the <HI REND="italics">amour propre</HI>
054.sgm:<P>The general trade of Sacramento increased correspondingly with its other improvements, but from the number of towns and cities springing into existence higher up on the river and its tributaries, equally accessible, so far as draught of water is concerned, to vessels of large burden, I am of opinion that its precocious start will not continue to be sustained, for goods can be carried much cheaper by water than by waggon, especially in a country without thoroughfares; and as it is the cost of carriage that so prodigiously enhances their value, the miner will be enabled to purchase them at a reduced rate, exempted from the necessity of undertaking a tedious, toilsome journey, and of absenting himself from profitable employment for a long time in getting his supplies.  I am therefore persuaded that the second-rate great cities destined to arrive at eminence in California, will be those located at the head of deep water navigation, in as proximate positions as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:possible to the mines.  The mines contiguous to Sacramento are those that were discovered at the start, and having been so worked, in every shape and way, they must by this time be pretty nigh exhausted--a surmise which, if it have a base to rest upon, fixes the present position of the city as the topmost rung of its ladder of destiny; and I should add, emigrants coming by any of the land routes, strike the various diggings far away from it, where they can as cheaply supply all their wants in the immediate vicinity; while those arriving seawards go right away to their several destinations, by means of steamers, with which the rivers are now crowded, without any necessity beyond curiosity for stopping there--a venerable motive which gets very little countenance or encouragement amongst the miners.  Stockton, on the San Joaquim, stands where it bids defiance to competition, and will assuredly become the capital of the southern mines; but Sacramento, situated according to the taste and views of Captain Sutter, will yet be eclipsed by many cities still in embryo.</p><P>The increase of the river steam navigation perceptibly thinned the forests of masts that lined the levee of the embarcadero, all those that remained having apparently taken leases for life of their moorings, with nothing but their lower masts and standing rigging left, let out as tenements, of all characters and descriptions; the trip to Francisco, which used to occupy from seven to nine days, coming to be a journey of as many hours, two magnificent boats running up and down alternate days, under arrangements admirably calculated for the convenience of the mercantile community.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:<P>I booked myself on board the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
054.sgm:, a new boat, of great power and accommodation, built for the Boston and Halifax trade, but her owners were induced to hazard the dangers of doubling Cape Horn, that they might have the first of the Sacramento trade, for which numerous steamers were preparing; and that they succeeded in doing so can be shown by a few figures, without getting into any very abstruse calculation.  The evening I came down there were 137 passengers, at 32 dollars passage and bed, which is far below the number she might calculate on in the more advanced season; but averaging it at 130 all the year round, after subtracting 52 Sundays, and 13 days--the balance to 65--for repairs, &amp;c., we have 300 working days, for which 130 passengers, at 32 dollars, gives a daily receipt of 4160 dollars, making a yearly aggregate of 1,248,000 dollars by passengers alone.  Then there is the large freight with which she fills every up trip, and the rent of the bar and supper table, a something beyond belief.  I could not get at the exact particulars, for obvious reasons; but this I was given to understand, that "the freight and rent fully covered all expenses," leaving the prodigious profit of one million and a quarter of dollars, or, in round numbers, 250,000 <HI REND="italics">l</HI>
054.sgm:., in one fleeting year.  Talk of Cunard, Oriental, or Ocean lines if you will, but I verily believe their joint and aggregate yearly earnings would not amount to that of this single boat, plying on a river whose tranquil waters a year before had never been disturbed by any greater paddle than that of the Indian canoe.</p><P>Supper is an old and commonplace meal; but a supper on board the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
054.sgm: --such a one as I witnessed--is not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:to be enjoyed every evening of one's life.  I hope, therefore, the reader will bear with me, while describing the one in question.  When the gong sounded, having a lame ankle, and not an over-keen appetite, I refrained from rushing into the tumultuous <HI REND="italics">me&circ;le&acute;e</HI>
054.sgm: down the brass-shod stairway, waiting patiently to bring up the rear; but long before I reached the saloon, or imagined any portion of the party could be seated, a din of clamorous calls for coffee, chops, rolls, steward, <HI REND="italics">sarse lasses</HI>
054.sgm:, with a brisk rattattoo of cutlery, announced that "havoc" had been "cried;" and as I shouldered my way in I met many a gravy-stained plate <HI REND="italics">in transitu</HI>
054.sgm: for a fresh supply, and hot stewards with cold steaks, hurrying to stop the mouths of importunate passengers, showing me practically how <HI REND="italics">go-a-head</HI>
054.sgm: energy will carry a man <HI REND="italics">in medias res</HI>
054.sgm:, before its more polished prototype will have made the primary effort.</p><P>I happened to be placed beside a gentleman of vast abdominal capacity, as well as having for our <HI REND="italics">vis-a&grave;-vis</HI>
054.sgm: two others of large similar endowments, who did not permit a moment to escape them unprofitably, as the barrenness of the surrounding neighbourhood too convincingly attested; for while every other part of the table was covered with a mosaic coating of edibles, that which constituted our territory, like the tract within the radius of an upas-tree, was denuded, blighted, wasted--even the standing decorative dishes, with their curiously cut-paper embroidery, intended to last the season, vanished from the scene in the intervals betwixt order and supply; hot rolls being spirited away with the magic of Chinese jugglers, and a species of slim biscuit, into whose warm embrace I modestly inserted a bit of butter, were slipped, double <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:crusted, into their mouths, like a dollar in a till slit, crowned with a lump of the same substance; stewards, with all the steam up, were waylaid as they hissed along, and eased of their burdens; and gentlemen above and below assailed with requests to "shove along" the butter, or the "sweetnin'."  My uppermost feeling was ineffable disgust; but it rapidly gave way to one of utter amazement, as I saw the unabated demolition of sodden steak, and chops, and cutlets, shivering in congealed gravy.  The table was nearly deserted before the two gentlemen on the opposition benches shut up, when I arose, from a feeling of shame lest the astounded stewards, who got concentrated into a group behind us, should suppose I was "any connexion of the person possessing such an inhuman attribute as the one that remained," who, as I retired, had placed before him the balance of a dish of chops, shaking in their gravy blanc-mange, which he affectionately pulled towards him with the eagerness of a new beginner:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The last cove at supper, left guzzling alone,<LB>All his hungry companions were feasted and gone.</HI>
054.sgm:</p><P>I regretted having left before the finale, and was spellbound at the head of the stairs, musing on miraculous maws and gastronomical giants, a full quarter of an hour before he came up, without any plethoric indication about him, looking as lank and pliant as an anchorite, with a brow as dry and unflushed as if he was only after rinsing out his mouth with cold water.  I have seen some accomplished trenchermen in my time, but all comparisons I can call to mind are feeble and inadequate.  I remember being present at Ascot Heath meeting as a spectator at an eating match, where the victor, in the full <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:flush of conquest, offered to "eat any man in Britain for 100 <HI REND="italics">l</HI>
054.sgm:., and give him a sheep a week odds;" but he was a pettifogging nibbler compared with my supper companion.  I never witnessed, or imagined, anything that would convey the remotest idea of his masticatory prowess.  Even the remembrance of my boyish visit to Wombwell's menagerie, to see the lions devouring, does not recur to me in such amazing guise as his stupendous performance; leaving me to come to the conclusion that the engulphment of the goat, horns and all, by the boa constrictor, stands on the apex of abdominal triumphs, and that the next greatest achievement in that line was the gormandising on board the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
054.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>A Francisco Counting-house--A Ship converted into a land Dwelling--Makes more Money on shore than in her native Element--Marine Hotels and Boarding Houses--Magnificent View of the Bay of San Francisco--The immense Merchant Fleet in the Harbour--A melancholy Prospect--The Site of the Town--Its novel Appearance--Its picturesque Suburb--Shoalness of the Water along the Beach--Expense of discharging Vessels--Gradual filling up of the inner Harbour--Submarine lot Speculations--Floating Warehouses--Character of the Buildings--Style of the Shops--Hotels, their Rates and Accommodations--Taverns and their Varieties--Chinese Settlers--Their Habits--Gaming-houses and their various Attractions--The Vice on the Decline--Probable Causes--Anecdote--Motley Groups--Bowling Alleys and Cockpits--Want of Theatrical Taste--The Courts and the Judges--Court Practices--Desk Protectors--The Custom-house and its Officials--Bad Feeling towards the British--The Quarantine Laws--The Tax on Foreigners.</p><P>WE arrived at our moorings before I awoke, and, finding a good breakfast ready, I partook of that meal on board, very few of the passengers remaining.  On inquiring where my friend's (Mr. S--m's) office was located, I was told I could be landed at a stair-foot leading right to it; and was not a little surprised when pulled alongside a huge dismantled hulk, surrounded with a strong and spacious stage, connected with the street by a substantial wharf, to find the counting-house on the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
054.sgm: --a fine vessel of 1000 tons--no longer a buoyant ship, surmounted with lofty spars, and "streamers floating in the wind," but a mud-stuck tenement, covered with a shingle roof, subdivided into stores and offices, and painted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:over with the signs and showboards of the various occupants.  To this "base use" my friend was obliged to convert her, rather than let her rot at anchor, there being no possibility then of getting a crew to send her to sea.  Her hull was divided into two large warehouses, entered by spacious doorways on the sides, and her bulwarks raised upon about eight feet, affording a range of excellent offices on the deck, at the level of which a wide balcony was carried round, surmounted with a verandah, that was approached by a broad and handsome stairway.  Both stores and offices found tenants at higher rents than tenements of similar dimensions on shore would command, returning a larger and steadier income, as my friend told me, than the ship would earn if afloat.  Others were not slow in following his example, while those who could not get water lots to purchase, let out their ships, as they swung at anchor, as marine stores and boarding-houses.</p><P>The office of my friend stood aft, over where the cabin used to be, with windows in three sides, and, as I remarked to him, only suited a person of essentially mercantile mind, unleavened by the slightest tinge of poetry or romance, as none else could set down pouring over ponderous account-books, while his desk commanded a series of the most splendid views of nature and art that the pencil of the painter could find to delineate or create under the impulses of the most glowing imagination.  On three sides lay spread out the glorious bay, its shores beautifully diversified with bold headlands, verdant promontories, and shaded inlets, where the streamlets, stealing down from the sloping hills, commingle with the blue waters of the Pacific; lofty mountain ranges, amongst <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:which the aspiring crest of Mount Diavolo stands in towering pre-eminence, forming a grand and striking background, holding the bay and its contiguous shores in their embrace, like a large inland lake; the broad expanse of its rippled bosom charmingly relieved by the flitting course of small schooners and barges as they scudded and tacked across with snow-white sails, and the more stately progress of ships of large burden; while more immediately under the eye lay at anchor the immense fleet of merchantmen, comprising many of the finest ships in the world, in the midst of which might be discerned the lofty spars of two sloops of war, that took up their stations like a pair of stern marine monitors, presenting a most transcendently grand spectacle, but one overcast by the remembrance that those splendid vehicles of commerce were moored idly there, deserted, rotting under the influence of the weather, and checking the proud spirit of enterprise that steered them to those shores.</p><P>Outside, arising from the waters, is the picturesque island of Yerba Buena (Goat Island), with its beetling cliffs, about equidistant from each horn of the crescent, on which the infant city is built, and lies smiling with preternatural pretensions, setting at nought all antiquated rules and ideas of cosmopolitan progression, as it closely circles the curved shores, heaving up its swelling breast in the natural amphitheatre formed by the contiguous heights, the centre formed by the plaza or square, which constituted the old town in its entirety; branching off from which, in rectangular courses, run the modern additions, ascending the hill-sides in handsome rows, until they reach the transverse terraces on the steeper acclivities, while on the north and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:south sides, two natural openings between the hills, pleasingly graduated, invite extension, leading to the beach above and below each point of the crescent, where harbours almost equal to the principal one exist, giving scope sufficient for all improvements that may be projected for years to come.  Already skeleton avenues are stretching out in those directions; and also, creeping around the shores towards those wings of the city, which will soon be full fledged, and spread out in commercial activity, several fanciful villas, lightsome cottages, and pretty tents are perched upon the steep brows around, looking like so many ae&die;rial visitants, peering about for a vacant spot to descend and settle on; and, above all, on the loftiest eminence stands the telegraph with outstretched arms, as if beckoning the whole human family to hurry forward and locate.</p><P>There is one great drawback to the harbour in the shoalness of the water around its rim, which prevents vessels from approaching within a mile of a landing; while the expenses of discharging by means of scows, or flat-bottomed boats, from the enormous rates of labour, involves an outlay tantamount to the freight.  To obviate this, some very long and substantial piers have been lately constructed, extending out a great distance, but still far short of the deep water, only affording accommodation for small craft; but their continuation to that point is contemplated, and will certainly be soon carried into effect, from the assurance they hold out of yielding enormous incomes to the proprietors.  The space within the area of the crescent is (I am informed by an officer of the port) fast filling up, the mud raised by the dragging of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the anchors outside being carried in by the eddies of the tide, rendering it more than probable that in the process of time the beach line will run straight from horn to horn; indeed, so steadily is this natural operation going on, speculators have not hesitated purchasing at extravagant terms submarine building lots, not even bare at low water, requiring buoys to mark out the area of their prospective properties.  Intercourse between the shipping and town is so costly and inconvenient, that judiciously-assorted shops, constructed on lighters, ply amongst the fleet, to supply those various wants that it would not be worth while to go ashore for at the expense of two dollars.  They form a novel spectacle to the eye of the stranger, but a very vexatious object to those aquatic extortioners the ferrymen, whose insolence and rapacity throws entirely into the shade the accomplishments of the jolly young watermen of the Tower Stairs or old Wapping.</p><P>The houses of the city are principally of wood, though some handsome brick ones have lately been erected, as well as a few iron ones, and some--fewer still--of stones taken off the coral reefs at the Sandwich Islands; but the great scarcity of lime causes timber to be the great building staple.  The streets are regularly laid out, occupied, as might be expected, exclusively with warehouses and shops; some amongst which were arrayed with the most attractive varieties of fancy goods, splendid shawls and scarfs, neat bonnets, lively dress patterns, and delicious little corsets, ingeniously arranged on stands and lines, in the spacious windows with a skill worthy of a London artist, where that branch of business has almost attained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
054.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
054.sgm:the rank of a science.  As yet, those emporiums are driving but a slender trade as compared with the other bustling marts; but every arrival augments the <HI REND="italics">softer</HI>
054.sgm: sex, whose increase will serve to correct and abate many of the social evils of the city, and diversify its busy throng, who plunge from the excitement of business to that of vice, in the absence of any domestic attractions.</p><P>Hotels are numerous, but mediocre at best; varying in their comforts and charges very considerably.  At the St. Francis you get good fare and the luxury of sheets at the rate of seven dollars per day, the others sliding down to twenty-one dollars per week, simplifying the fare in a proportionate ratio, and consigning you to repose in a narrow brunk, on a shaving mattress, betwixt a pair of bearded blankets, that can scarcely be included in the category of woollen manufactures; the titillation of which, superadded to the voracity of the Californian fleas, are more than a match for any amount of patience or lassitude.  There are houses of refreshment at every turn--the American Tavern, the French Re&acute;staurant, the Spanish Fonday, and the Chinese Chow-Chow.  But amidst the host of competitors the Celestials carry off the palm for superior excellence in every particular.  They serve everything promptly, cleanly, hot, and well cooked; they give dishes peculiar to each nation, over and above their own peculiar soups, curries, and ragouts, which cannot be even imitated elsewhere; and such is their quickness and civil attention, they anticipate your wants, and secure your patronage.</p><P>There are great numbers of Chinese in California, most of whom settle in the cities, partially adopting the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:prevailing costume, constituting a very useful class of men, quick in acquiring a proficiency in the duties required of them, industrious, and persevering in attending to it; they are systematic, sober, and cleanly, and when treated with proper kindness and indulgence, become attached and interested.  They, above all others, appear successful in finding employment; for you never see a Chinese lolling about, or amongst the groups of idlers, content, as I believe, with more moderate wages, and unconnected with the confederate gangs, who laugh contemptuously at an offer far exceeding a colonel's pay.  They soon become possessed of means, from the simplicity of their habits and economy of their domestic <HI REND="italics">me&acute;nage</HI>
054.sgm:, and do not hesitate to share it in establishing their countrymen, who generally leave their fatherland without any other resources than their brains and sinews--a trait of character that usually affords a guarantee for other commendable attributes.  The Americans seek assiduously to inspire them with a hatred of the British, by reprobating, in terms of affected indignation, "their wanton cruelty during their unjust war;" avowing sympathies of the tenderest complexion.  But those relatives of the sun and moon do not appear prone to retrospective reflections; present prospects and future anticipations more profitably and pleasingly occupying their minds.</p><P>From my experience in Sacramento, I was quite prepared for the number and style of the gaming-houses, which invariably occupy the most prominent sites; and lest their conspicuous exteriors should fail to attract the eye, a crash of music issues from their capacious portals and balconies that is certain to arrest the ear.  Some of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:them have really fine bands, as they spare no expense in securing the best musicians; and I am fully persuaded the charm of sweet sounds entices many abhorrers of the vice to enter who would never otherwise have overstepped their thresholds; but when once the rubicon of temptation is crossed, and the turrets of gold and silver with which the tables are heaped, glitter, as they are pushed about from hand to hand, on the turn of a card or the destiny of a ball, the dazzled vision vanquishes all virtuous resolves, tinges the acquisitive senses,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>And those who came to scoff remain to <HI REND="italics">play</HI>
054.sgm:</p><P>Gaming is followed, in Francisco, with a spirit accordant with its pre-eminence above the other cities of California, standing in about the same degree of comparison with the profession in Sacramento as the grand houses of aristocratic resort in St. James's and Albemarle-street do with the silver hells in the purlieus of Leicester-square.  They are never closed, morning, noon, or night.  Dealers and presidents succeed each other; and as yawning crowds disperse at daybreak, new victims rush from their beds to the sacrifice, so that there is no intermission, the only difference being that the evening attendance is the greatest and most adventurous.  There are various games, adapted for every prejudice or caprice; but "the game" is monte.  It is on this that all large investments are made, and which leviathan gamblers patronise.  I was present myself on one occasion when a gentleman lost 6000 dollars at three stakes.  It is, however, remarked, by those qualified to enunciate statistically, that while the numbers who resort to those rendezvous are undiminished, the amounts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:played for are fast dwindling in magnitude--a consequence not to be wondered at, for communities, no more than bodies corporeal, can bear up against bleeding beyond a certain point without having syncope to ensue; and some conception of the drainage may be formed, when one establishment, the El Dorado, can afford to pay a rent of 6000 dollars per month, independent of taxes and expenses, enabling its proprietors to indulge in the most expensive style of living, and to set aside enormous sums for other speculative investments.</p><P>There are capacious refreshment-counters in all those saloons, plentifully supplied, but with a greater and more tempting variety of fluids than edibles--a very natural arrangement, no doubt, where excitement is the great aim, but leading occasionally to the maddened despair of a victim's revenge, to guard against which each table is provided with its secret armory, which is used without hesitation or remorse in the event of a row.  I saw, at the Eagle Saloon, in Montgomery-street, a monte dealer deliberately draw a pistol from beneath the cloth, and shoot a young lad, who was, I believe, honestly scuffling for his stake; and then, with the most perfect <HI REND="italics">sang froid</HI>
054.sgm:, call the coroner, whom he recognised amongst the bystanders, to hold an inquest, which actually took place on the spot where the bloody deed was committed, in presence of the murderer, a volunteer jury of pals returning a verdict of "accidental death" almost before the last throb of pulsation had beaten; and as the body, still warm with animal heat, was being removed, the blood-stained villain audaciously resumed his position at his infernal altar, surrounded by an inhuman crowd, who pressed forward to the game, nowise <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:restrained by the consciousness that they were standing in the undried gore of a fellow-creature.  Ladies may sometimes be seen presiding over the game, exerting their insinuating blandishments to charm the "nice young men" to their ruin; and every table is attended by a set of accomplices, or "bonnets," who stake their money on the right cards, and move away with large sums, to make room for the eager dupes behind them.  There is scarcely a country on the face of the globe that has not a delegate in those dens--Russians, Swiss, French, Swedes, Spaniards, Italians, Greeks, Turks, Jews, Chinese, Hindostanees, Niggers, Yankees, Indians, English, Scotch, Malays, and some of the real <HI REND="italics">ould</HI>
054.sgm: ancient Milesian stock, no longer "hereditary bondsmen," but <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Thumping, lumping, tearing, swearing,<LB>Ranting, roaring Irishmen,</HI>
054.sgm:</p><P>presenting a motley group, that could not be equalled in any of the capitals of the oldest empires.</p><P>Bowling alleys also come in for a respectable share of public patronage.  And a new and successful mode of <HI REND="italics">divarting</HI>
054.sgm: the public is in operation, under the auspices of a rollicking Emeralder, in the shape of a cock-pit, which seems to take amazingly, and pay proportionably as over and above the admission fee of twenty-five cents; the <HI REND="italics">pull</HI>
054.sgm: in knowing the respective merits <HI REND="italics">and chances</HI>
054.sgm: of the birds must be a source of large income, round sums being staked on the issue of every battle; while, as Mr. M`Cluskey jocularly informed me, "he was at no cost for an <HI REND="italics">orkisthre</HI>
054.sgm:, as the crowing of the <HI REND="italics">darlints</HI>
054.sgm: was worth all the money;" and, I must say, challenged public attention with signal effect.  Theatricals were attempted, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:soon expired of inanition, as will every other attempt at public recreation that is not highly seasoned with gambling incentives, so deeply is that vice rooted in the community.</p><P>Persons above all temptation, who find time hanging heavily on their hands, can beguile an hour or two in the different law courts, where justice is administered in a manner that comes home to the meanest capacity, divested of all that stupid etiquette and solemn decorum, so irksome according to British discipline.  Judges there sit on the bench, attired like other men, and taking a leaf out of Chief Baron Nicholson's book, puff their cigars while laying down the law on the enlightened principle of "ex fumo, dare lucem;" nor do they haughtily hesitate to accommodate with the glowing butt any of the learned counsel or audience who may require a light; in fact, there is a degree of charming republican familiarity existing betwixt the bench, the bar, and the public, which makes a man feel as much at ease in court as in a tavern, and must be seen to be properly appreciated.  Law arguments under such a system are no longer dry and uninteresting, but flow smoothly along, liberally lubricated with tobacco saliva, and garnished with colloquial episodes that come with a delicious freshness upon the ear of a person before only accustomed to the oppressive profundity of Westminster practice.<ANCHOR ID="n16-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: I was being thus edified, sitting in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the jury-box (no jury being empannelled at the time), where I observed a row of new pine sticks, about the dimensions of a shillelah, standing in exact order in front of the seats; and finding their number amounting precisely to twelve, it struck me they were part of the legal machinery of the place; nor was I astray, for a sort of factotum--crier, usher, tipstaff, &amp;c.,--who wore his hat <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
054.sgm:, commiseratingly informed me they were "desk protectors," which it was part of his duty as court-keeper to provide as "whittling stuff for the gents," who would otherwise cut all sorts of hieroglyphics and incongruous devices upon the desks; an operation I afterwards saw gone through by a witness under the ordeal of a sharp cross-examination, who cut with an increasing into the rail as the counsel cut into his credibility.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1"><P><HI REND="italics">Judge</HI>
054.sgm:: "Holloa, Mr. Taper! I spose you come here to realise the price of them ar pants," slapping the nether tegument on his legs, which described two sides of a triangle in the desk; "but afore I stumps up, it would tickle me to know on what math <HI REND="italics">ee</HI>
054.sgm: matical rule you cut them out."</p><P><HI REND="italics">Mr. Taper</HI>
054.sgm:: "Well, I reckon it would be considerable of a kurioss rule as would apply to your cqueer posters."</p><P><HI REND="italics">Facetious Counsel</HI>
054.sgm:: "I humbly move we make it a rule of court."</p><P><HI REND="italics">Judge</HI>
054.sgm:<P>The custom-house department is only remarkable for the insolence of the officials, and the arbitrary demeanour of the autocratic collector, who, like a late Irish judge of punning celebrity, sticks it on with a vengeance it parties before his tribunal betray the slightest emotion of discontent as their invoices are assessed;<ANCHOR ID="n16-2">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: taking, as it appeared to me, a peculiar delight in throwing stumbling-blocks in the path of Englishmen, and confiscating British property without any embarrassing investigations.  In connexion with this department we have the board of health, actuated by a similar anti-British spirit, and using the quarantine laws to gratify it in a manner degrading to humanity, stretching them cruelly when a poor tempest-tossed British emigrant comes within their jurisdiction, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:who, though dried up with sea-sickness, scurvy, and short ship's allowance, need plead for no indulgence, no mercy, if there exist the flimsiest excuse for prolonging his misery.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-2">Lately, business goes on more methodically and legally, since California has been admitted into the Union.</NOTE>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>The Post-office--Slow Process of sorting--Eagerness for Intelligence-- <HI REND="italics">Letterary</HI>
054.sgm: Speculators--Rules of Approach--Scenes on Mail Deliveries--Jokes and Tricks--Amusing Occurrence--Effect of the System of changing Officials in the States--Houses of Worship--Their thin Congregations--Divine Service interrupted by the Bands of the Gambling-houses--Anomalous Progress of Vice in Francisco--It tinges Mercantile Integrity--Case in Point--A woeful Disappointment--Lot Property in San Francisco--Invisible Suburbs--The Future of the City--Influx brings down Wages and favours small Capitalists--Indications of a Bachelor--Disproportion of the Sexes--Its probable Consequences--Auctioneers <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
054.sgm: Wholesale Merchants--Value of Money in California--Disagreeabilities of Francisco--The Climate provocative of pulmonary Ailments--The Markets--Number of Daily Papers--The old Spanish Presidio and Fort--The Entrance of the Harbour--Washerwoman's Bay--Sansolito--De los Angelos--Its picturesque Position--Advice to Emigrants--A little plain Reasoning--A simple Calculation.</p><P>IT is a rare treat for a stranger to watch the proceedings about the post-office, after the arrival of a mail steamer; and one that neglects the opportunity, throws away a chance of seeing fun and novelty that he cannot make up for elsewhere.  As soon as the mail-bags go ashore, all public communication with the establishment is shut out for four-and-twenty hours--sometimes much longer, if the mail is a large one--a period in which those unapproachable officials might not only sort the letters, but con over their contents.  During this interregnum, you cannot even post foreign letters, as you can find no one to whom you can pay the postage--a necessary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:preliminary to their transit.  On the evening previous to the completion of the job, notices are affixed inside the different windows, announcing the hour at which the delivery will commence on the ensuing morning, and such is the extravagant desire to obtain the earliest news, that there is a class of men who derive a comfortable livelihood by securing and selling the places most contiguous to the windows.  You will find those " <HI REND="italics">letterary</HI>
054.sgm: " speculators taking up their stations at midnight on little canvas stools, with their stock of cigars, and provisions laid in for the siege, sitting in close column, as the inexorable rule is, that all applicants must be served in rotation.</p><P>The earliest dawn brings to the ranks those who prefer a little suffering to a little expenditure, every moment adding new recruits, until the lines become so elongated that the rear extends into remote streets.  The march is so slow, parties come prepared with newspapers and magazines to wile away the time; and cafe&acute;s, rigged upon hand-carts, move along, dealing out hot coffee, juleps, and sangarees; for if you leave the ranks under any necessity, you must fall in behind.  A peripatetic grog-shop is also in attendance, in the person of a huge hirsute Frenchman, with a keg of brandy slung over one shoulder, so as to come conveniently into the embrace of the opposite arm for filling up the different potatory utensils that dangle from his jacket buttons.  The crawling nature of the progress not unfrequently superinduces drowsiness, and sometimes, when a somnolescent gentleman happens to get a comfortable <HI REND="italics">lean</HI>
054.sgm:, yielding to the pleasing influence, he neglects to close up, when he is passed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:by and shut out--technically, "caught napping,"--to the infinite mirth of the multitude, who poke fun at him, as he retires without the latest intelligence.  Tradition informs us, that in the early, primitive days of San Francisco, it sometimes occurred that people, bowed down as if with sickness, crawled upon crutches, imploring the fortunate leaders of the forlorn hope to waive their privilege for the moment in favour of them "unfortunate cripples," who, like the infirm cardinal that stood up erect so soon as he got hold of the keys of St. Peter within his clutch, became miraculously stalwart the moment they became possessed of their letters; thus rendering the present generation uncharitably sceptical, and exploding the dodge.  I came in for rather a laughable scene, in which the principal actor was a tight lad from my own province, who, when his turn came, demanded, in a loud tone,</p><P>"Are thir any letthers from my father in Ireland, inside?"</p><P>"Sam, may I be -- if the kurosity nailed to the post must not be for this <HI REND="italics">critter</HI>
054.sgm:.  I say, Pat, I believe thar's summut for you here.  Would you take atall figure for it?"</p><P>"For the matther o' that, the hole's rather small to make a bargain through; but if you come out here in the afthernune, instead of takin anything I will be afthir giving you such a lambae&aelig;stin, that all the <HI REND="italics">soretin</HI>
054.sgm: clerks, in there wouldn't be able to make out yer direckshuns."</p><P>"Keep your temper, Paddy; here's a line from your guvnor; no other man's father could direct a letter `to my Sun in Kaleyfornia,' but yours."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>"D'ye hear me, you strate-haired scamp," retorted Pat; "there's never a pair of pistol-shinned Yankees, wayned on traycle an' Indaay mail, that the same ould chap and I wouldn't knock saucepans out of;" (and, moving off with his epistle) "so, hooray for ould Ireland, and the sky over it! barrin the praty rot; and where's the dirty, snufflin' spalpeen that daar say black's the white o' my eye, for" (in the distance) <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I'm a rantin', rovin' blade,<LB>Of the devil a thing was I ever afraid!"</HI>
054.sgm:</p><P>It may be supposed by some of my readers that I am drawing a long bow about this department; but I beg solemnly to assure the incredulous that I am far within the actual limits, and positively deficient in many of the strange and eccentric details.  The crush continues for two days, and very often occupies a spell of the third, the clumsiness and delay arising from one of the boasted usages of the "great enlightened republic;" according to which, every new president turns all public departments inside out, displacing men just long enough in harness to know their business, to make room for his own partisans, green hands, who assume office without any aptitude, and proceed to learn their duties without a preceptor.<ANCHOR ID="n17-1">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1">On my return from the Sandwich Islands, some approach to despatch had been made by having a wing of the office with numbered boxes, one of which every permauent resident rented.</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>There are numerous houses of worship in the city, but none of them externally distinguishable as such save the Roman Catholic chapel--a new frame building of capacious dimensions--erected on an eminence, which makes it quite a feature of the city.  It is to be regretted, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:however, that their influence is exceedingly circumscribed, if any inference can be deduced from the limited attendance; for while their congregations are so lamentably thin, the dens of iniquity, the gaming-houses, are crammed to suffocation; the sacrilegious din of their crashing bands rending the solemn stillness of the Sabbath, penetrating to the shrine of worship even during the hour of prayer--the rampant bleatings of the golden calf drowning the mild tones of Christian piety.</p><P>The world's progress furnishes no parallel for the precocious depravity of San Francisco.  The virgin soil of a new settlement did not use to be a garden for vice and evil.  There it was the kindly philanthropist looked to find the ruddy virtues blooming in a kindred clay in an uncontaminated atmosphere, fading and sickening only in the tedious revolution of time, as moral culture degenerated into voluptuous lethargy, accumulated wealth morbidly craving the incentives of luxury, and enervating enjoyments supplanting the healthy exercise of enterprise, when, with drooping heads and shrivelled stems, they shrank into decay, choked by the rank weeds of artificial society.  But in Francisco a new and anomalous phase has arisen; the infant phenomenon exhibiting the tokens of senility in its cradle, with the gangrene of vicious indulgence staining its soft cheek before it is well emancipated from its swaddling-clothes--symptoms altogether incompatible with the sanguine anticipations which predicate for it the proudest position amongst all the cities within the vast bay of oceans between the Capes of Horn and Good Hope.</p><P>In Francisco nothing is natural--everything is forced; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:it is a hotbed where all pursuits are stimulated by the fierce fire of one predominant lust.  Trade or business is not embarked in there to be the honourable occupation of a lifetime; professions are not solely followed to secure a permanent practice and social elevation; men engage in both the one and the other to build up fortunes in a hurry with whatever materials they can grasp, to win a large stake by any means and then withdraw, confounding the tactics of the gambler with the zealous integrity of the merchant, until conscience is left without a corner to hide in, and even common decency is obliged to pick her steps through the mire.  I was furnished with a good illustrative instance in the case of a gentleman of my acquaintance from Adelaide, South Australia, who came up from the colonies with a large venture, and an introduction to a <HI REND="italics">first-rate</HI>
054.sgm: house, to whom he handed his invoices, to have them arranged according to a certain form prescribed by the customs authorities.</p><P>As one of the firm ran his eye over them, he exclaimed, "Why, as I live, you have put down the several articles at their full cost prices!"  "Certainly," replied Mr. B--d; "you could not suppose me capable of swearing to a lie to save a few dollars' duty?"  "Well, Sir," said this <HI REND="italics">respectable</HI>
054.sgm: merchant, "if that's your style of doing business, I guess you'll never dig a fortune amongst us."  In like manner, houses claiming the appellation of respectability, put out their characters to fructify by patronising any scheme or project that promises to lead to profit, duping poor emigrants, who were wont to regard reputation as a guarantee, by selling them, with every solemnity of asseveration, lots in their flourishing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:newspaper cities; the poor pigeon going his way rejoicing, on the strength of their assurances, in quest of his property, eyes on inquiring, after a toilsome journey, at some tattered tents, "How far off is the city?" when he is informed to his dismay that he is standing in the centre of the capital.</p><P>Lot property, in and about Francisco, is, and will continue for some time, to be valuable and in demand, from the unceasing stream of emigration, both by sea and land, one-fourth of whom either stay in or return to the city; and as there are no such things as empty houses or untenanted stores, those who come with an intention of starting in business have no alternative but to purchase a lot and erect a tenement; so that, I repeat, lot property contiguous to the city is for the present an improving investment; but I wish to emphasize contiguous, because surveys and allotments have been made out to ridiculously remote points, that cannot possibly come into occupation if ever, for a number of years; for you will meet, as you travel towards the city, miles from its turmoil, posts surmounted with boards, that wayfarers approach to learn the distance, but find them headed with the names of streets, and notifications "that the adjoining valuable lots are for sale"--causing the bewildered stranger to strain his optics in search of the outlines of a town, impressed, as he proceeds, with amazement, and vague notions of earthquakes and such like vagaries of nature.</p><P>But I cannot refrain from expressing my opinion--the question of title apart--that the present extravagant value of property in Francisco cannot continue to be long sustained, because commerce and business, which are its life <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:and soul, are on an unsound and fictitious basis, that must be revolutionised to become stable and permanent.  The standard of property is relatively regulated by the profits of trade, and as those profits become necessarily depressed as the vast appliances of steam open fresh facilities for intercourse and transit, its value must subside in a like ratio.  No sane man could put faith in the continuance of a system having to bear up against the feverish pulse of a money-market beating at an average of eight per cent. per month, against rents five hundred per cent. above those of New York or London, against wages and salaries equally exorbitant, with an exhausting domestic expenditure, despite of the most self-denying economy, and without the guarantee of insurance to cover the ruinous risks of the place from fire.</p><P>Besides, regarding it in another light, how is it possible that a city, claiming to contain 50,000 inhabitants, can be supported in its present career by so scant a population as that California is said to contain, which, according to an average of the very best estimates, does not exceed 200,000, cities, diggings, ranches, and all; an amount, too, that is gradually on the decrease, as the placer diggings--which alone can be worked by individual energy and labour--are giving evidences of exhaustion; results that will steadily progress until the mining operations of the country are concentrated in a few large associated companies, constrainedly employing machinery instead of manual labour in stamping and grinding the quartz, amalgamations, &amp;c., &amp;c., to the consequent diminution of the population, who have not the attraction of agricultural resource to induce them to settle in the country; for it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:is a notorious fact, borne out by experience, that not one out of every hundred emigrants either start with the intention of permanent settlement, or see reason to change their minds after a season's residence in the country.</p><P>There is a constantly shifting population, the one coming with the determination of working hard, and saving rapidly for home enjoyment, the other returning with the fruits of their labour and economy.  At first the flood was the stronger, but latterly the ebb tide is the more impetuous, carrying along with each receding wave a portion of the sandy foundation on which this marvellous city has been built.</p><P>San Francisco, to be upheld in its present overweening pretensions, would require a thriving population of at least a couple of million at its back.</p><P>The steady influx of emigrants has assisted the sale of property in another way, by bringing down labourers and mechanics' wages to somewhat of a rational standard, enabling the smaller class of capitalists to make efforts that before would have been impracticable.  Smiths and carpenters, who six months previously would have grumbled at one ounce per day, came to be contented with eight dollars; good labourers, being anxious to secure steady employment, at four dollars; the only branches of labour that remained unabated when I left were washing and fine needlework.  Owing to the disproportionate number of female settlers, you rarely see a gentleman using a hemmed kerchief, and when you do, you may set it down as a sign that he has some "friends in heaven" who have provided him with a helpmate; nor is it an unfrequent habit for persons to throw away their shirts and stockings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:when they become soiled, bad washing costing six dollars per dozen, taking the big pieces with the small, while good new shirts, ready made up, can be bought at ten dollars per dozen, and stockings at four dollars; a figure low for such a market, but consequent upon the amazing stocks of such goods with which it was glutted in the first burst of speculation.  However, I am inclined to suspect, like the cards in fashionable clubs, those articles, after a little manipulation, find their way back to the shelves of the shopmen, which tends to keep up the stock and depress the price.  But the number of the fair sex is sensibly on the increase, perhaps from this state of things (which I do not assign from any feelings of disrespect to the ladies, but as the natural result of cause and effect), that, up to this, seven-eighths of the emigrants were unmarried men, generally about the age when ideas of connubial felicity obtrude themselves on the imagination; so that I do not conceive it beyond the range of legitimate conjecture to suppose that the diminishing numbers of young men at home would encourage family emigration on a large scale, by stimulating that very laudable ambition, so universal amongst prudent mammas, of having their daughters comfortably provided for.</p><P>The wholesale trade in Francisco appears to rest upon a very unsound foundation; for though there are several extensive establishments of the kind, shippers--who, in very many cases, come out as their own supercargoes--rather than encounter the awful charges and drawbacks of consignment, take their goods from the ship's side to one of the numerous auction marts with which the city <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:abounds, where all the retailers supply themselves, unless in immediate want of an article which does not appear in any of the auction catalogues of the day, when alone they resort to the store of the regular wholesale merchant.</p><P>"Auction watching" there is quite a business in itself, a large class of men exclusively devoting their time to attending those sales, and generally standing well with the man who wields the hammer, and helps them to the lion's share of good bargains, which are for the most part to be had, with periodical certainty, after the monthly remittances, when dust is not overabundant, and money sometimes raises to the startling rate of ten and twelve per cent. per month on the best bills.  During my stay in California, I have never known discounts lower than seven per cent. per month on bills and notes of hand, while on mortgage I have known as high as twenty-five per cent. to be obtained; and as much as fifteen per cent. can always be easily had, most amply secured on the best property in the place; so that business profits and professional emoluments may be permitted to reach a very lofty range without exciting "our especial wonder."</p><P>There are two great objections to Francisco as a mere place of residence; one of which may be removed in course of time, but the other, and most serious one, must abide for ever--I allude to the offensive and disgusting odours which pervade the atmosphere, owing to the surface drainage, as all the impurities of the city are carried off by gutters, only partially covered where they cross a thoroughfare; but this, no doubt, will be better arranged when the municipal government is thoroughly established <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:and organised.<ANCHOR ID="n17-2">*</ANCHOR>
054.sgm: But the quick daily transitions of temperature in the climate is above human control or amendment, and must evermore render it disagreeable to the more robust, and excessively unhealthy to those of delicate constitutions; for even during the warmest of the summer months, while up to twelve and one o'clock the heat is so oppressive that the lightest possible garments are an incumbrance, you will be obliged for the remainder of the day to muffle up in Kamschatcan attire, and belay your hat with a stout rope, if you care for its safety, as a regular gale sets in, continuing till night, carrying with it a drift of sand from the surrounding hills and from off the streets, which inflames the eyes, pangs the ears, grits down the back; but, worst of all, finds its way into the lungs, forming granulations there that produce irritating coughs, and most generally ripen into tubercles, ending in pulmonary consumption.  Fever and ague, of a very virulent type, also prevail to a great extent, and acute rheumatic ailments, growing out of the habit of living in those pile tenements, which are so carelessly constructed that the exhalations from the damp underneath can permeate through the ill-joined floors, and imbue the air of the whole establishment.  The dreary winter season, which pours down its deluge of sleets and rains, is the healthier of all; because the weather, not being so subject to sudden daily caprice, enables the people to clothe in the morning in a costume that suits throughout the day; whereas in other seasons, though a change is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:necessary, business or indifference prevent its being made, thus laying a foundation for ill health.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-2">At my late visit I found regular sewers in process of formation, several having been already opened, perfectly sufficient to drain all the nuisances; besides which improvements, brick houses had become more numerous since the destructive fires, and plank roads laid down in all the leading streets.</NOTE>
054.sgm:<P>Good water is abundant, and, though there are no regular markets, all the necessaries of life can be conveniently obtained.  Excellent bread is made throughout the city, and prime beef can always be had at moderate rates; but the mutton is wretched, only fit to be used in harricoes or pies.  Fish is a rarity, although the bay and rivers abound with an extensive variety of the best description.  Venison is quite a cheap and ordinary dish, and even bear meat frequently figures on the <HI REND="italics">ro&acute;le</HI>
054.sgm: of the tavern's <HI REND="italics">carte</HI>
054.sgm:.  I have been more than once amused on entering a <HI REND="italics">restaurant</HI>
054.sgm:, to hear a waiter communicating his order to the kitchen, shouting, in double bass, "One roast bear for No. 9;" next moment, "Two <HI REND="italics">rare</HI>
054.sgm: roast bears for No. 6; an <HI REND="italics">outside</HI>
054.sgm: roast bear for No. 3;" giving one the idea there were a drove of those animals in a huge bakehouse, ready to be trotted out on the shortest notice.</p><P>There are five daily papers in Francisco, all seemingly well supported and cleverly conducted, each labouring strenuously to establish their various creeds of American politics; in which they have so far succeeded that at every pettifogging election, even of the lowest official, every party spell is evoked, and all the rancour of polical spleen is stirred up into full ferment.</p><P>About two miles westward of the city, beyond the hills, is rather a fertile strip of land, stretching along the coast of the bay; towards the entrance, at the end next the city, there is a small fresh-water lake, round which a little colony of washerwomen have planted themselves, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:and a right good location it is for the business, as the water is soft and detergent, and the margin is girthed with a thorny scrubwood, which answers admirably for drying.  When first seen from the hill-top it forms a unique feature in the landscape, sufficiently imposing to confer a name on the cove of the bay adjoining it, which is laid down in the map as Washerwoman's Bay.  There has been some garden cultivation commenced in the same locality; the little streams that trickle down towards the lake affording means of irrigation, and giving promise of crops, at the time of my visit, that would lead, I should think, to the occupation of all the available land about for green vegetables, which were then a perfect treat, and commanded a most arbitrary price.</p><P>At the other end of the narrow plain stands the old Spanish presidio and landing, which is occupied by a few American soldiers, and used as a depo&circ;t for military stores.  The landing is a bad one, situated on a flat unprotected beach, and long since altogether abandoned as such.  About a mile further seaward is the old fort, standing on a bold projecting point, which, with Punto Diablo on the opposite shore, forms the throat of the harbour Chrysopyl&aelig; as it is called--a short mile in width, with deep water close into each shore, and no hidden danger or obstacle to obstruct navigation, almost superseding the necessity of pilotage.  There were a few paltry remains of Spanish fortification about the fort, on which the Americans have improved, and planted some guns, round the inside of the headland, on the northern side of the entrance, of which Punto Diablo is the extreme tongue.  There is a nice sheltered little harbour, called Sausolito, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:where ships come to, when there is not sufficient wind to enable them to stem the ebb tide; and vessels outward-bound frequently call for water, as it is particularly good; and if the voyage is a long one, a considerable saving can be effected, ships' water at the city being four cents per gallon.  A settlement has been long since formed here by a Captain Richardson, who owns the entire saddle of good land that rides betwixt the high hips of the coast range there.  He is so jealous of neighbourhood or encroachment, that he cannot be induced to let or sell any portion of his possessions, although he does not nearly use or occupy the extent of his territory, which is called Plaza de los Carallos.</p><P>Opposite the Bay of Sansolito, in a north-easterly direction, lies the island of De los Angelos, much the largest in the Bay of San Francisco.  Its shores are bold around, but on the south and west rise abruptly to a giddy height.  It is covered with fine pasture, possesses good water, and a sufficiency of firewood; but as yet has not tempted a wooer to its angelic embrace.  Were I to remain in California, I should choose it as my head-quarters, for, over and above the properties I have mentioned, its picturesque situation is pre-eminently attractive, reposing under the shelter of the coast range, and commanding a most expansive view of the bay; from its south-east cliffs you see through the gullet of the harbour the undulating bosom of the broad Pacific; immediately opposite, the more elevated terraces of the city sweetly challenges the view; and beyond its jutting extremes the southern section of the bay stretches beyond the limits of vision, to receive the waters of the Santa Clara, on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:which stands the embarcadero of the capital of San Jose&acute;; while towards the northward is discernible the great entrance to the Strait of Carquines, with the city of Benicio on its shores--a sort of aquatic Temple-bar, where vessels, boats, and barges are jostling against each other as they pass and repass in crowded throngs through this narrow thoroughfare.</p><P>Before leaving Francisco, I would give a word of advice to emigrants--advice founded on my own personal experience, observation and inquiry, especially intended for tradesmen and mechanics, who, in the chagrin of disappointment at finding a somewhat abated scale of wages, spurn excellent offers, and start off to the mines, where they find matters still more vexatiously at variance with the gilded narratives that wheedled them from their comfortable homes.  Before yielding to hasty impulse, let them collate and compare remuneration and expenditure with those items at home, and they will be constrained to admit that industry and skill are still splendidly rewarded in San Francisco, notwithstanding the diminution of wages.  If wages have become more moderate, so also has the cost of living, each still bearing their relative proportions; when one was excessively high, the other was similarly exorbitant; now both have subsided, yet income and expenditure have not approximated uncomfortably. There is still an ample margin, for a man not addicted to gaming and drinking, to augment a reserve fund, should he be disposed to found one, without abandoning his accustomed pursuits or rushing blindly to shatter his constitution, and return bowed down by sickness, without gains enough to defray the expenses that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:must accrue before restored health enables him to seek employment.</p><P>The labourer, who all his life has been accustomed to hard toil and exposure, whose frame has been case-hardened by snows and sunshine, whose constitution will not shrink under the vicissitudes of diet and climate, is the proper manner of man for a miner.  He has shivered the rock in the quarry at home,--he can do the same in California; he has worked in mud and water digging the canal in his native state, and can endure wet feet in the vocation of a gold-digger.  He was never over-daintily ministered to in food, nor does he pine at the rough fare of the mines.  But take the carpenter from behind his dry bench, the smith from his warm forge, or the spruce clerk from his high stool, and place them in cold water, with a red-hot sun glaring down upon them,--let them strain every muscle in this novel sphere of labour, rough it on hard bread and salt junk, seeking repose on the damp earth, and, believe me, they will soon exhibit the sad effects of so radical a change.</p><P>Besides, steady employment about the different cities will enable a man to enjoy more comforts, and save more money than he can as a general thing by the precarious income of the diggings. The average daily income of miners, embracing all the diggings, has been computed, by persons in a position to make the calculation, at eight dollars; which, from my own observation, taking good mines and bad, energetic men and slothful, good workmen and those unused to toil, I consider tolerably near the mark.  Let me next see the number of days this income can be reckoned on: we first subtract fifty-two Sundays, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:and at least ninety-one days for the winter and high-water season, making together one hundred and forty-three days; those from three hundred and sixty-five leave two hundred and twenty-two days, or within a fraction of thirty-two weeks; then all miners allow at the rate of one day in the week for prospecting, seeking new ground, which leaves a residue of one hundred and ninety working days; from which I might, and should, deduct largely for sickness and other contingencies; but admitting one hundred and ninety days as the yearly average at 8 dollars per day, it yields a total of 1520 dollars, showing that something over 4 dollars per day for the year round is the miner's income.  Let the mechanic or clerk, in following this calculation, also bear in mind, that while he in Francisco or Sacramento lays in his necessaries at reasonable rates, the miner has to submit to the most usurious exactions; and, after a little sober reflection, I conceive he will come into my view of the matter.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Change my Mind about visiting the San Joaquim Valley--Reasons for so doing--Prevailing Character of the Country--Rice growing there profitable or not--Wild Horses in the Valley--Rare pictures of Animated Nature--Colonel Fremont's Description of the Valley--Quartz stratifications about the Mariposas District--Dr. Marsh's Opinion of the Valley.</p><P>I ORIGINALLY intended proceeding from San Francisco down the Valley of the San Joaquim, and visiting the southern as well as the northern mines; but from the various descriptions I received from several intelligent parties, who worked in and travelled through them, there was so perfect a similarity in the character of the diggings, the returns, the <HI REND="italics">habitans</HI>
054.sgm:, and goings on there, I thought there would be nothing of novelty or interest to repay me for the journey; nor was there any variety in the aspect of the country or scenery to attract the tourist who had already travelled through the Valley of the Sacramento.</p><P>The San Joaquim valley is largely composed of tule marshes and low sedgy swamps, so subject to overflow and lodgment they cannot well be turned to profitable account, except it be in the cultivation of rice, in which employment, I understand, there are some parties at present engaged; and though I have no doubt as to its growing freely, and yielding large crops of good quality, yet, from the very low rates at which it is imported from several of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the islands of the Eastern Archipelago, where land and labour are to be had for a mere song, I cannot be brought to believe it will ever become a remunerative species of husbandry, even though " <HI REND="italics">gone into</HI>
054.sgm: " by sheer Yankees.  Three cents per pound is the price at the time I write, and I find the averages of the markets have been fully as low as in South Carolina, where it is one of the prime products.</p><P>In the higher, or more rolling districts as they are termed, the soil is good--not to be excelled for richness by the most favoured portions of the Sacramento valley--and some of the best locations have been settled; but, beyond stock raising, the only cultivation that has been attempted is that of the vine, which, from many samples of the grape I have seen, bids fair to be rewarded with success, in so far as the character of the fruit is concerned.  But though the juice may be peculiarly vinous, I apprehend a generation must pass away before any profit can be extracted from the purple clusters; lacking which, in these degenerate days, the most delightful or utilitarian avocations speedily languish and cease to interest.</p><P>The herds of wild horses is a feature peculiar to this valley. They are of a splendid breed, and up to this period have been suffered to increase and multiply without interference or molestation, as the rancheros raise their own stock, and prefer the trouble of rearing and training them to the bother and danger of catching and taming the fiery quadruped of nature's nurturing.  I have heard several glowing descriptions of them, as they come proudly careering about a band of travellers, with flowing manes and streaming tails, sweeping over the plain with inconceivable fleetness, and gradually diminishing the circle, as, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:subsiding into their stately trot, they approximate the strangers, snorting wildly, devouring them with their brilliant distended eyes, manoeuvring around them in graceful curves, until, after having satiated their curiosity, as if actuated by a simultaneous impulse, they rush off with the rapidity and noise of the whirlwind.  There is no animal in animated nature to compare for beauty, symmetry, or spirit, with the horse; nor can I conceive any spectacle of moving life so magnificent, so imposing, as the grand, proud <HI REND="italics">abandon</HI>
054.sgm: of a band of those noble animals.</p><P>I will endeavour to compensate the reader for my meagreness of description by a few brief transcripts, which, for reasons before adverted to in these pages, may, perhaps, be regarded as over-warmly coloured, though in the main correct.  Colonel Fremont, who has become a permanent settler in the valley, thus describes it:  "The Valley of the San Joaquim is about 300 miles long and 60 broad, between the slopes of the coast mountains and the Sierra Nevada, with a general elevation of only a few hundred feet above the level of the sea; it presents a variety of soil, from dry and unproductive to well-watered and luxuriantly fertile.  The eastern (which is the fertile) side of the valley is intersected with numerous streams, forming large and beautiful bottoms of fertile land, wooded principally with white oaks ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus longgilanda</HI>
054.sgm: ), in open groves of handsome trees, often five and six feet in diameter and sixty to eighty feet high; only the larger streams, which are from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet wide, and drain the upper parts of the mountains, pass entirely across the valley, forming the Tulare&grave; Lakes' and San Joaquim River, which, in the rainy season, make a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:continuous stream from the head of the valley to the bay.  The foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada, which limit the valley, make a woodland country, diversified with undulating grounds and pretty valleys, and watered with numerous small streams, which reach only a few miles beyond the hills, the springs which supply them not being copious enough to carry them across the plains. These afford some advantageous spots for farms, making sometimes large bottoms of rich moist land.  The rolling surface of the hills presents sunny exposures, sheltered from the winds, and having a highly favourable climate and suitable soil, are considered to be well adapted to the cultivation of the grape, and will probably become the principal vine-growing region of California.  The uplands bordering the valleys of the large streams are usually wooded with evergreen oaks, and the intervening plains are timbered with groves or belts of evergreen and white oaks.  Among the prairie, or open land, the surface of the valley consists of <HI REND="italics">low</HI>
054.sgm: level plains, along the Tulare&grave; Lakes and San Joaquim River, changing into undulating rolling ground nearer the foot-hills of the mountains."</p><P>Colonel Fremont's location in the valley is called the Mariposas, being situated on a small creek of that name, between the Sierra Nevada and the San Joaquim; it comprises ten sitios, or leagues square, purchased from a Spanish grantee, and said to contain quartz stratafications, both rich and extensive; so much so, that a sanguine public have placed the colonel in the ever-to-be-desired niche of the richest man in the world.  I have seen many specimens of the amalgamations from the Mariposas, in which the golden particles are so very minute, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:cannot be well detected with the naked eye; but the colonel affirms that, on stamping and retorting, it yields three ounces of pure metal to the pound of quartz--a percentage that would certainly justify the enviable position his friends have assigned him, but one that will not, in my mind, be realised by experiment.  However, the matter will soon be tested, as he has let off some portions to companies, who are now engaged in erecting the necessary machinery.</p><P>As a general thing, there are much larger districts of quartz stratafications, appurtenant to the valley of San Joaquim, than that of Sacramento; and in some of those the gold is not only combined in minute granular amalgamations, but runs in rich, thick cords and bunches, averaging to the full as much metal as stone.  Those regions have not as yet been fully explored or investigated, but sufficient is known to warrant a belief that they are vastly extensive, and will constitute the gold mines of California long after all the present surface-picking is exhausted.</p><P>Dr. Marsh, a gentleman of enterprise and intelligence, who settled in a fertile and romantic district near the base of Mount Diablo, before there was any idea entertained of the hidden wealth of the country, thus describes the valley of his adoption in a descriptive pamphlet: "It forms a fine <HI REND="italics">pastoral</HI>
054.sgm: region, with a good proportion of fine land, and a very inviting field for emigration. The whole of this region has been but imperfectly explored; enough, however, is known to make it certain that it is a fertile country. In the valleys of the rivers, which come down from the great Sierra Nevada, are vast bodies of pine, cedar, and red wood.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:whole country east of the San Joaquim, and the waters of the Tulare&grave; Lakes, is considered by the best judges to be peculiarly adapted to the culture of the vine, which must <HI REND="italics">necessarily</HI>
054.sgm: become one of the <HI REND="italics">principal agricultural resources of California</HI>
054.sgm:."  This latter sentence is one to which I would respectfully call the attention of Colonel Fremont, and those other writers and talkers, who stick out for California's being essentially a corn-growing country, because it emanates from the pen of a gentleman of a high order of attainments, and a practical experimentalist, long living in the country, who, after trying a large variety of crops, affirms that vine-growing "must necessarily become one of the principal agricultural resources of California," the inference being evident that it is unsuitable for most other productions.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Prefaratory Observations--California first Discovered--The first Colonisation Expedition--Establishment of the early Missions--Their total Number--An Outline of their System--Their Success in teaching Trades and Husbandry, and in securing the Friendship of the Indians--Fraternisation of the Spaniards and Indians--Leads to Intermarriages--The Period from which the Missions began to Decline--Date of their complete Subversion--Flagitious Conduct of the Government of the Day--Those promising Establishments hasten to Decay--Extracts--Form of Government in Upper California in 1822--Presidios, Description of--Their Strength and Duties--The Missions--Dates of Foundation--Detailed Account of their Appearance and Construction--Indian Rancherias--Authority and Duties of the Reverend Fathers--Extent of the Missions--Number of Indians attached to them--Natural Habits of the Indians--The General Production of the Missions--They Establish a Commerce in the Exportation of Hides--Inland Towns, their Number and Social Distinctions--Amusements--Fecundity of the Whites in California--Ports and Commerce--Value of their Exports.</p><P>As the next branch of my rambles take a southerly direction through the Valleys of San Jose&acute; and San Juan, where the native Californian is still to be found following his peaceful pastoral avocations amidst the wreck of his early institutions, I think a few prefaratory remarks will not be out of place, together with a short extract from an observant and accomplished Spanish writer, showing the state and condition of the country in 1822, when Mexican independence was thoroughly established.</p><P>Alta California was discovered in 1548 by Cabrillo, an adventurous Spanish navigator, who effected a landing on the coast somewhere about where San Diego now stands, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:and first held intercourse with the wild aboriginal inhabitants of the country, planting the standard of Christianity on its remote and lonely shores; but it was not until the close of the last century, in 1769, that it was regularly colonised by Spaniards, the first properly organised expedition being got up in 1768, under the auspices of Father Junipera Serra, Prefect of the College of San Fernando, in Mexico, and commanded by Don Gaspar de Portala, which arrived in the following June, in two divisions, contiguous to the point of original discovery; and from that period may be dated its connexion with Spain and Mexico, who afterwards held it, in a state of intermittent subjection, until the late conquest by the United States.</p><P>At the above juncture commenced the systematic conversion and enlightenment of the natives, a Mission being immediately founded, about two leagues from San Diego, called San Diego de Alcala, and others, in quick succession, at other favourable points, under the protection of <HI REND="italics">presidios</HI>
054.sgm: (armed posts), until, as appears by a report from the Viceroy to the King, dated at Mexico, 27th December, 1793, there were thirteen in active, useful operation, which number was subsequently augmented to twenty-one.  Inducements were held out to the natives to come in and settle closely around them, those that remained fractious and troublesome being chastised and kept under by the military.  But the great majority, without much persuasion, came to reside in rancherias (villages) prepared for their reception, where they were initiated into the truths of revealed religion, trained to labour in the Mission lands, and educated and instructed in many of the most useful practical trades and sciences; amongst which that of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:agriculture was pursued with such skill and industry, that its products amazed the enterprising Vancouver and the scientific Humboldt.  Grain sufficient for their wants was extracted from the soil with the aid of irrigation; vegetable husbandry, by the same means, yielded a superabundance; fruitful orchards, crowded with every variety of tropical fruit, teeming vineyards, reeling with profuse clusters of the finest-flavoured grapes, and large, thriving herds of imported breeds surrounding the establishments of those holy fathers, who, by their suavity and benevolence, so attached those children of nature to them, that they ruled and controlled them without the exercise of any irksome restraints, gradually extending the sphere of their influence until the whole length and breadth of the country came within their gentle sway, inducing the natives in the most remote fastnesses to forsake their savage haunts and habits, in order to participate in the benefits of the new order of things, who conformed so readily to Spanish customs, and became so socially amalgamated, that the new lay-settlers did not hesitate to strengthen the chain of connexion by frequent intermarriages, the more especially as, at the commencement, there was little, if any, of a female emigration from the old country.</p><P>The march of progressive civilisation and improvement received its first check on the declaration of Mexican independence, when, with the officious zeal peculiar to most revolutionary governments, they called in question the nature and extent of Mission grants, arrogating a power and temper of interference at once inconsistent with their original rights and immunities, and the continuous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:prosperity of those institutions.  The reverend fathers bore up against those usurpations and injuries with truly Christian fortitude and forbearance, submitting with uncomplaining resignation to the most wanton acts of spoliation, which alienated from them the fairest portions of their reclaimed domains.  Nor did they abate in the slightest their philanthropic labours until 1836, when one of the many internal revolutions and political changes of government occurred, bringing in its train a series of fresh changes and innovations, which sanctioned the destruction of the Mission establishments, by the arbitrary secularisation of their lands and tenements, and even the peremptory distribution of their cattle and stores, a corrupt and degenerate government pensioning its local minions and rapacious partisans by countenancing and enforcing this system of wholesale plunder and devastation, as unjust as it was impolitic; for the reverend fathers, seeing they could make no head against the nefarious current, for the most part retired from the country or abandoned their smiling establishments, which, from being model hives of industry and order, soon began to crumble and relapse into their immemorial state of barrenness, the Indian neophytes returning to primitive barbarism, and even the very temples of God participating in the universal and deplorable decay.</p><P>The following are the extracts alluded to in the early part of the chapter, which will be found to blend illustratively with the experiences of my short tour in the pastoral regions of California, and convey as full an historical summary of the country as may satisfy the general reader; for its earliest historical epoch may be strictly said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:to date from the founding of the first Mission, unless we go back amidst barbaric traditions and superstitions:</p><P>"Upper California, on account of its small population, not being able to become a State of the great Mexican Republic, takes the character of a territory, the government of which is under the charge of a commandant-general, who exercises the charge of a superior political chief, whose attributes depend entirely upon the President of the Republic and the General Congress; but to amplify the legislation of its centre, it has a deputation made up of seven vocals, the half of these individuals being removed every two years; the superior political chief presides at their sessions; the inhabitants of the territory are divided amongst the presidios, missions, and towns.</p><P>"The necessity of protecting the apostolic predication was the obligatory reason for forming the presidios, which were established according to circumstances; that of San Diego was the first--Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco afterwards; the form of all of them are nearly the same--and that is, a square containing about two hundred yards on each point, formed of a weak wall made of mud bricks; its height may be four yards in the interior of the square, and built on to some wall; in its entire circumference are a chapel, storehouses, and houses for the commandant, officers, and troops, having at the entrance of the presidio quarters for a <HI REND="italics">corps de garde</HI>
054.sgm:.</p><P>"These buildings in the presidios, at the first idea, appear to have been sufficient, the only object being for a defence against a surprise from the Gentiles, or wild Indians, in the immediate vicinity; but this cause having ceased, I believe they ought to be demolished, as they are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:daily threatening a complete ruin, and, from the very limited spaces of habitation, must be very incommodious to those who inhabit them.  As to the exterior of the presidios, several private individuals have built some very decent houses, and having evinced great emulation in this branch of business, I have no doubt but in a short time we shall see very considerable towns in California.</p><P>"At the distance of one, or at most, two miles from the presidio, and near to the anchoring-ground, is a fort, which has a few pieces of artillery of small calibre; the situation of the most of them is very advantageous for the defence of the port, though the form of the walls, esplanades, and other imperfections which may be seen, make them very insignificant.</p><P>"The battalion of each presidio is made up of eighty or more horse-soldiers, called <HI REND="italics">cuera</HI>
054.sgm:; besides these, it has a number of auxiliary troops, and a detachment of artillery; the commandant of each presidio is the captain of its respective company, and besides the intervention--military and political--he has charge of all things relating to the marine department.</p><P>"The Missions, contained in the territory, are twenty-one; they were built at different epochs; that of San Diego, being the first, was built in 1769, its distance from the presidio of the same name is two leagues; the rest were built successively, according to circumstances and necessities; the last one was founded in the year 1822, under the name of San Francisco Dolores, and is the most northern of them all.</p><P>"The edifices in some of the Missions are more extensive than in others, but in form they are nearly all equal; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:they are fabricated of mud-bricks, and the divisions are according to necessity.  In all of them may be found commodious habitations for the ministers, storehouses to keep their goods in, proportional granaries, offices for soapmakers, weavers, blacksmiths, and large parterres, and horse and cattle pens, independent apartments for Indian youth of each sex, and all such offices as were necessary at the time of its institution; contiguous to, and communicating with the former, is a church, forming a part of the edifices of each Mission; they are all very proportionable, and ornamented with profusion.</p><P>"The Indians reside about 200 yards distant from the above-mentioned edifice; this place is called the `Rancheria.' Most of the Missions are made up of very reduced quarters, built with mud-bricks, forming streets; while in others the Indians have been allowed to follow their primitive customs, their dwellings being a sort of hut in a conical shape, which, at the most, do not exceed four yards in diameter, and the top of the cone may be elevated three yards.  They are built of rough sticks, covered with bulrushes or grass in such a manner as to completely protect the inhabitants from all the inclemencies of the weather.  In my opinion, these rancherias are the most adequate to the natural uncleanliness of the Indians, as the families often renew them, burning the old ones, and immediately building others with the greatest facility.  Opposite the rancherias, and near to the Missions, is to be found a small garrison, with proportionate rooms for a corporal and five soldiers, with their families.  This small garrison is quite sufficient to prevent any attempt of the Indians from taking effect, there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:having been some examples made which causes the Indians to respect this small force.  One of these piquets in a Mission has a double object besides keeping the Indians in subjection; they run post with a monthly correspondence, or with any extraordinaries that may be necessary for government.</p><P>"All the Missions in this California are under the charge of religious men, of the order of San Francisco; at the present time their number is twenty-seven, all of an advanced age.  Each Mission has one of these fathers for its administrator, and he holds absolute authority.  The tilling of the ground, the gathering of the harvest, the slaughtering of cattle, the weaving, and everything that concerns the Mission, is under the direction of the fathers, without any other person interfering in any way whatever; so that if one Mission has the good fortune to be superintended by an industrious and discreet padre, the Indians disfrute in abundance all the real necessaries of life; at the same time the nakedness and misery of any one Mission are a palpable proof of the inactivity of its director.  The Missions extend their possession from one extremity of the territory to the other, and have made the limits of one Mission from those of another. Though they do not require all this land for agriculture and the maintenance of their stock, they have appropriated the whole, always strongly opposing any individual who may wish to settle himself or his family on any piece of land between them; but it is to be hoped that the new system of illustration, and the necessity of augmenting private property, that the people of reason will cause the government to take such adequate measures as will conciliate the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:interests of all.  Amongst all the Missions, there are from 21,000 to 22,000 Catholic Indians; but each Mission has not an equal or proportionate share in its congregation; some have 3000 or 4000, while others have scarcely 400; and at this difference may be computed the riches of the Missions in proportion.  Besides the number of Indians already spoken of, each Mission has a number of Gentiles, who live chiefly on the farms annexed to the Missions; the number of them is undetermined.</p><P>"The Indians are naturally filthy and careless, and their understanding is very limited in the small arts; they are not deficient in ideas of imitation, but they never will be inventors. Their true character is that of being revengeful and timid; consequently they are very much addicted to treachery.  They have no knowledge of benefits received, and ingratitude is common amongst them.  The education they receive in their infancy is not the proper one to develope their reason, and if it were, I do not believe them capable of any good impression.  All these Indians, whether from the continual use of the sweat-house, or from their filthiness, or the little ventilation in their habitations, are weak and unvigorous.  Spasms and rheumatics, to which they are so much subject, are the consequences of their customs; but what most injures them, and prevents propagation, is the venereal disease, which most of them have very strongly, clearly proving that their humours are analogous to receiving the impressions of that contagion. From this reason may be deduced the enormous differences between the births and deaths, which, without doubt, is one-tenth per year in favour of the latter; but the missionaries do <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:all in their power to prevent this, with respect to the catechumens situated near them.</p><P>"The general productions of the Missions are the breed of the larger class of cattle, sheep, and horses; wheat, maize, or Indian corn; beans, peas, and other vegetables; though the productions of the Missions situated more to the southward, are more extensive, these producing the grape and olive in great abundance.  Of all these articles of production, the most lucrative is the large cattle, their hides and tallow affording an active commerce with foreign vessels on this coast, this being the only means the inhabitants, missionaries, and private individuals have of supplying their actual necessities; for this reason they give this branch all the impulse they possibly can, and on it generally place all their attention.</p><P>"It is now six years since they began to gather in hides and tallow for commerce.  Formerly they merely took care of as many, or as much, as they required for their own private use, and the rest was thrown away as useless; but at this time, the actual number of hides sold annually, on board of foreign vessels, amount to 30,000 or 40,000, and about the same amount of arrobas (twenty-five pounds) of tallow; and in pursuing their present method, there is no doubt but in three or four years the amount of the exportation of each of these articles will be doubled.  Flax, linen, wine, olive-oil, grain, and other agricultural productions, would be more extensive, if there were stimulants to excite industry; but this not being the case, there is just grain enough sown and reaped for the consumption of the inhabitants in the territory.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>"The towns contained in the district are three, the most populous being that of Angeles, which has about 1200 souls; that of St. Joseph's, of Guadaloupe, may contain 600; and the village of Branciforte, 200.  They are all formed imperfectly, and without order, each person having built his own house on the spot he thought most convenient for himself.  The first of these pueblos is governed by its corresponding body of magistrates, composed of an alcalde, or judge, four regidores, or municipal officers, a syndic, and secretary; the second, of an alcalde, two regidores, a syndic, and secretary; and the third, on account of the smallness of its population, is subject to the commandancia of Monterey.</p><P>"The inhabitants of the towns are white, and, to distinguish them from the Indians, are vulgarly called <HI REND="italics">people of reason</HI>
054.sgm:. The number of these contained in the territory may be nearly 5000. These families are divided amongst the pueblos and presidios; they are nearly all the descendants of a small number of individuals who came from the Mexican country--some as settlers, others in the service of the army--accompanied by their wives, and some few foreigners.  In the limited space of little more than fifty years the present generation has been formed.</p><P>"The whites are in general a robust race, healthy and well made. Some of them are occupied in breeding and raising cattle, and cultivating small quantities of wheat and beans; but for want of sufficient land, for which they cannot obtain a rightful ownership, and the difficulties of irrigation, their labours are very limited; others dedicate themselves to the service of arms.  All the presidial companies are composed of natives of the country, but the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:of them are entirely indolent, it being very rare for any individual to strive to augment his fortune.  Dancing, horse-riding, and gambling, occupy all their time.  The arts are entirely unknown, and I am doubtful if there is any one individual who exercises any trade, very few who understand letters, and only the simple sciences are practised amongst them.</p><P>"The fecundity of the <HI REND="italics">people of reason</HI>
054.sgm: is extreme; it is very rare to find a married couple with less than five or six children, while there are hundreds who have from twelve to fifteen; very few of them die in their youth, and on reaching the age of puberty, are sure to see their grandchildren.  The age of eighty and one hundred has always been common in this climate; most infirmities are unknown amongst them, and the freshness and robustness of the people show the beneficial influences of the climate; the women, in particular, have always the roses stamped on their cheeks.  This beautiful species is, without doubt, the most active and laborious, exercising all their vigilance in the duties of the house, the cleanliness of their children, and attention to their husbands, dedicating all their leisure moments to some kind of occupation that may be useful towards their maintenance; their clothing is always clean and decent, nakedness being entirely unknown in either sex.</p><P>"There are four ports, principal bays in this territory, which take the names of the corresponding presidios.  The best guarded is that of San Diego; that of San Francisco has many advantages; Santa Barbara is but middling in the best parts, at other times always bad.  Besides the above-mentioned places, vessels sometimes anchor at Santa Cruz, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:San Luis Obispo, El Refugio, San Pedro, and San Juan, that they may obtain the productions of the Missions nearest these last-mentioned places; but, from an order sent by the Minister of War, and circulated by the commandant-general, we are given to understand that no foreign vessel is permitted to anchor at any of these places, Monterey only excepted.  The commandant-general has allowed the first three principal ports to remain open provisionally; were it not so, there would undoubtedly be an end to all commerce with California, as I will quickly show.</p><P>"The only motive that induces foreign vessels to visit this coast, is for the hides and tallow, which they barter for in the territory.  It is well known that in any of these ports there is no possibility of realising any money, for here it does not circulate; the goods imported by the foreign vessels are intended to facilitate the purchase of the aforesaid articles, well knowing the Missions have no interest in money, but rather such goods as are necessary for the Indians; so that several persons who have brought goods to sell for nothing but money, have not been able to sell them.  It will appear very extraordinary that money should not be appreciated in a country where its value is so well known; but the reason may be easily perceived by attending to the circumstances of the territory.</p><P>"The quantity of hides gathered annually is about 30,000 or 40,000, and the arrobas of tallow, with very little difference, will be about the same.  Averaging the price of each article at two dollars, we shall see that the intrinsic value in annual circulation in California is 140,000 dollars; this sum divided between twenty-one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:Missions, will give each one 6666 dols.  Supposing the only production of the country converted into money, with what would the Indians be clothed, and by what means would they be able to cover a thousand other necessaries?  Money is useful in amplifying speculations, but in California, as yet, there are no speculations, and its productions are barely sufficient for the absolute necessary consumption.  The same comparison may be made with respect to private individuals, who are able to gather a few hides and a few arrobas of tallow, these being in small quantities."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Start for San Jose&acute;--Description of the Steamer--Uncomfortable <HI REND="italics">Fix</HI>
054.sgm: --The Passage--Appearance of the Passengers in the Morning--Aspect of the Country--The Embarcadero--A Yankee Version of the Navigation Laws--The Plains to the Pueblo--Outskirts of the Capital--The Capital itself--The Catholic Chapel--The Easter Festival--How it is celebrated--Easter Sunday Morning--The Spanish Carreta--Spanish Fashion, Customs, and Costumes--The Congregaton--Beauty of the Females--The Men look a Mixed Breed--Introduced to an Irish Gentleman--Meet some old Acquaintances--Number of Irish Settlers in the Valley--Their great and uniform Prosperity--Curious Enigma--English and Scotch Settlers.</p><P>I ORIGINALLY intended travelling by land to San Jose&acute;, as I expected the company of an agreeable friend, familiar with the route; but as he was detained by a sudden call of business, I chose the water, as the more preferable mode of reaching it, there being a small steamer on the station; not, indeed, very attractive in appearance or accommodation, for she was shaped more like a vat than a boat, propelled by a wheel aft the rudder, the machinery, boiler and all, standing right in the centre of the only apartment she contained, where the whole of the passengers were all huddled together, broiling with their own animal heat and that of the furnace, breathing an atmosphere of escaped steam and grease, and in constant bodily danger of being lugged in amongst the wheels, cranks, and pistons.  Thirty dollars was the fare; and after filling her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:until there was no more standing room, we found she was so fast aground that we should be compelled to wait till next tide.  As we could not land, the water being so shoal about us that no boats could approach, and no one seemed disposed for a bout at mud-larking, there was nothing therefore for it but patience, resignation, and the pastime of relieving legs for six hours, which was not very agreeable, as might be conjectured, from the fact that the vessel took a list, which made our footing somewhat precarious.  The few seats on board were occupied by a few ladies, who constituted <HI REND="italics">tableaux vivans</HI>
054.sgm: of a series of individual satires on the lady who "sat on the monument."</p><P>Had we been enabled to start in the morning, we would have carried daylight with us to our destination; but as it was, the shades of evening enveloped us in their sombre veil before we got half-way down the bay; the lower part of which is so studded with shoals, we had to grope our way slowly, with the lead over each bow, until we got to the mouth of the river--a narrow, tortuous stream, where the current with the ebb was nearly a match for our horse power; so that the nine miles to the embarcadero occupied us nearly as many hours in accomplishing it.  I never before endured so much fatigue, of so unusual a nature; standing twenty hours without room to sneeze, or draw a full inhalation; and as the morning's sun revealed the aspect of the group, I think I never within the same compass saw so many wobegone visages, grimy and greasy, to an extent that almost puzzled identification.  I sincerely felt for the embarrassment of the ladies, who were evidently suffering in the throes of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:exposure, rightly conjecturing that the delicate tints of their velvet cheeks had contracted the hue of the filthy varnish, which was nowise improved by the nervous application of cambric.  I have remarked ladies as they emerged from the gaseous glare of the ball-room into the clear critical light of day; but the complexional transfusion on board the steamer outruns all comparison.</p><P>The country on each side of the river (the Santa Clara) up to the embarcadero is low, and covered with tule, scarcely furnishing a patch of pasture the entire way; nevertheless, its dreariness was relieved by the scenery in the background, where the green verdure of wild oats and barley decked the mountains to their summits, and dark ravines, wooded with fine timber, intersected their sides, marking the course of the waters that hurry down them in the rainy season.  At the point of debarcation the river, at low water, is barely wide enough for two ships to lie alongside each other; and, as usual, there is a town laid out there, with its lines of embryo streets and squares ostentatiously indicated.  But speculation had not taken root in building, beyond some half-dozen houses; the principal trade of the place in storage-vending, boarding and lodging being vexatiously engrossed by an old British ship belonging to Belfast, which was towed up, dismantled; and though not exactly fitted up in the style of Trajan's Palace, on the Lake of Nemi, still so far excelled the establishments on shore in comfort and accommodation, that she left them without a customer--a piece of monopoly so provoking to Yankee cupidity, that they applied to the authorities for an injunction to restrain her proprietors from carrying on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:business on board her, on the score that it was an infraction of the Navigation Laws; and it would not surprise me one whit if the Executive ban were placed on this "sheer hulk," embedded in the mud, without either mast or rudder, as British subjects are sure to have a free interpretation of this restrictive code when it jars with the interest of native Americans.  There will be no difficulty in making her out a "foreign bottom," and it can be easily construed into a "coasting trade," her doing a business by gangway with either bank of the river.</p><P>From the embarcardero to the pueblo (town) of San Jose&acute; is eight miles, commencing the fertile portion of the lovely valley of that name, which is chiefly settled by natives of the sea-girt isles.  The plain is devoid of timber, except along the several arroyos (rivulets) that meander through it, whose courses are indicated by handsome belts of oak and sycamore, but along the base of the mountains by which it is bounded, deep groves of pine, oak, and red wood, of immense magnitude, are to be found.  On each hand, as you travel towards the pueblo, may be seen handsome, comfortable ranchos in picturesque situations, and large herds of the finest cattle feeding over the finest pasture.  More closely approaching the town, you meet some neat modern villas, with handsome enclosures and well-cultivated gardens; suburbs that would lead you to expect a place of corresponding taste and regularity; but in this I was completely disappointed, for it is a scattered, incongruous collection of poor houses, having for its nucleus, like most Spanish towns, a plaza or square, the other buildings and dwellings being erected at the caprice of the proprietors, without any idea or desire of order or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:regularity; and if I were to subtract all those of recent construction, evidently the work of the late settlers, it would be a place of utter insignificance.  The majority of the old Spanish houses are of the rudest and simplest construction, the walls being composed of stout hurdles, which constitute the standards of a rough wicker-work, that is plastered coarsely over with adhesive clay, covered in with tule thatch, or hides, an apron of which answers for a window-shut, for in that class they do not aspire to the use of glass; a hide, also, is generally substituted for a door.  There are some few houses that can boast a second story, built of adobe bricks, and roofed with tiles, supplied in the palmy days of the Missions, in which the better order reside; but although they are comfortable and commodious, they scarcely look respectable, bearing those marks of sloth and negligence which appertain to everything that falls within the province of the male population in that country; for the only thing the Mexican cares to take any trouble about are the trappings and accoutrements of his saddle-horse.</p><P>The Catholic chapel, occupying the centre of the plaza, is the principal feature of the city--if not for beauty at least for dimensions--and so slight is its affinity to the ecclesiastical order of architecture, that, were it not for the religious emblem of Christianity that stands conspicuously on the apex of its gable, a stranger would be more likely to set it down as a great unsightly barrack or barn.  It is built of adobe bricks, with walls about four feet thick; it is one hundred and fifty long, and only twenty-four feet wide, about the proportionate width of a single aisle, with two transepts, like arms broken off at the elbows, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:are, if possible, still more awkwardly disproportionate, while the vast space of dead-wall on each side is only relieved by four apertures, intended for windows, about four feet by two; so that it neither requires a woodcut, nor a laborious effort of imagination, to conjure up an idea of the clumsy figure it cuts in its conspicuous position.  There is no attempt at internal decoration; it is roughly white-washed, and the walls hung here and there with scriptural prints, executed in the coarsest style of art, daubed over in the most slovenly manner; the flooring being so badly joined, a walking-cane might drop down betwixt the slits, while even the altar and railings around it look more like temporary make-shifts than the deliberate efforts of a tradesman.</p><P>I happened to be in San Jose&acute; during Easter, which great Christian festival is celebrated there in a twofold manner, the rural inhabitants flocking in to take part in the religious ceremonies and enjoy themselves in dancing, horse-racing, and bull-fighting; but this latter pastime has been lately discontinued in Upper California, having receded within the limits of Sonora and Mexico.  The pueblo, on Easter Sunday morning, was thronged with a gay and motley crowd.  Carretas,<ANCHOR ID="n20-1">*</ANCHOR>
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054.sgm:<P>It was quite easy to distinguish between the foreign and native ladies, independently of feature and complexion, as the Spanish dames cover their heads with fine crape or silken scarfs of considerable length, which fall gracefully on their shoulders, the ends coming to the front, and gathered loosely in the hand, while the others wore the stiff bonnet, which looked prim and prudish in comparison.  In the dresses there did not appear to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:any predominant or prevailing fashion, so far as colour was concerned, for they were of every hue and shade--from the light and lively pink, sky-blue and green, to the more sombre maroon and deep dark black.  There were no veils used, nor were the scarfs drawn so invidiously close as to conceal the lovely countenances which realised all my preconceived notions of Spanish beauty; some radiant with an excess of loveliness, retaining the pure Castilian contour and complexion, shrouded in redundant tresses of darkest sheen, and lit up with dark lustrous soul-searching eyes, too dazzling to be encountered longer than a glance.  The figures of all were of the most faultless symmetry, bearing the impress of nature's moulding, and harmonising most enchantingly with an unschooled dignity of mien and freedom of carriage, the birthright of the Spanish lady, which, associated with a <HI REND="italics">nai&die;ve</HI>
054.sgm:, easy graciousness, and warmth of manner, renders her the most fascinating creature of her sex.</p><P>Few of the men can boast of being <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>True hidalgos, free from every stain<LB>Of Moor or <HI REND="italics">Indian</HI>
054.sgm:</p><P>for they are dark almost to ebony, with a tendency to that style of compressed physiognomy and distended nostrils that form an attribute of the Indian, with whom, in the early settlement, they intermarried and cohabited; but why that sex alone should have lost their physical characteristics, while the women so remarkably retain them, is a question whose solution lies too deep in natural economy for my comprehension.</p><P>Long before service commenced, the congregation assembled in front and around the chapel, where there were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:refreshment-booths erected, resorted to by those who felt the appetising influence of a morning's drive.  There was a good deal of promenading amongst the gayer portion, and conversation amongst the more grave; some <HI REND="italics">outre</HI>
054.sgm: Yankee fops crushing amongst the groups, to stare and ogle the charming sen&tilde;orittas, who seemed to regard them with a haughty disdain.  However, the arrival of the padre put an end to the scene, all following him closely into the chapel; the gentlemen taking one side, the ladies the other, where they spread out rugs, that were used in lieu of seats, the more respectable portion having very rich ones carried by pages.</p><P>After mass I delivered some letters of introduction to Mr. White, a gentleman from the west of Ireland, who came through from Canada in 1846, and has acquired a large fortune and the esteem of all classes.  He was alcalde two years in succession, and could continue in the office, which is both influential and lucrative, but from the new tone of politics, and the envious spirit concomitant with American settlement, he has declined the re-election.  He owns large tracts of property in the neighbourhood, and has built a fine mansion a mile out of town, surrounded with a highly-cultivated garden, where, with his amiable lady and interesting family, he seems seated in a little terrestrial paradise.</p><P>I was made acquainted by Mr. White with several families from the south and west of Ireland, amongst whom I was agreeably surprised to find two, Messrs. Murray and Hart, who came from my own neighbourhood, and knew all about my family and connexions.  They kindly invited me to take up my abode at their ranchos, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:volunteering to furnish me with horses <HI REND="italics">ad libitum</HI>
054.sgm: to pursue my rambles.  I also became acquainted with Mr. Murphy, who, with Mr. Martin, from the county Wexford, have accumulated great wealth there, and become leviathan landed proprietors.  Mr. Murphy's sons have five independent establishments and extensive ranchos in the most favoured portions; and there are many other Irish settlers scattered through it, all of whom, without an exception, are not merely comfortable, but extremely affluent; yet at home they were, according to their own acknowledgment, miserable strugglers on the confines of destitution, and some of them the victims of the barbarous system of exterminating eviction, driven from their hovels and patches of land as if they were vermin that marred fertility, loathsome objects that pained the delicate eye of the landlord, relentlessly persecuted on the pretext that their ignorance and sloth was innate, unconquerable, and their dispositions prone to savage cruelty, devoid of any ambition to improve their circumstances, and shameless recipients of parochial relief.</p><P>Well, those exiles of Erin, once settled in a country exempt from the infatuation and pettifogging tyranny of autocratic landlords and hostile magistrates, soon became inspired with natural aspirations of independence, which quickly dispelled the torpor of indifferentism, stimulating industry with the assurance of its just requital into continuous and prosperous exertions.  Where the late inmate of a workhouse, seeing before him his reward, sets zealously to work to earn it, bringing to bear a cheerful energy, all the more active from its long course of un-natural repression, and an intelligence sufficiently quick <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:and comprehensive to direct it into profitable pursuits--this new era in his life giving a contradiction to the calumny on his self-respect; for the man who at home, under the constraint of circumstances, sought the aid of the relieving-officer, was there transformed into the generous dispenser of hospitality, and being interested in the peace and progress of society, became a voluntary promoter of law and order, instead of a wild and reckless disciple of rebellion.</p><P>How is it that those results cannot be brought about in the land of his nativity?  Surely change of climate has not any influence in developing those desirable attributes.  There is no natural element peculiar to Ireland adverse to their growth and propagation.  No; we must seek in the human laws of the country, and the vicious social relations, especially those of landlord and tenant, for the germ of those evils which make a useless and discontented citizen of the bold peasant, and in banishing him from the home of his heart, convert him into a foreign enemy.</p><P>There are also many English and Scotch settlers in the valley, some dating their settlement so far back as twenty-five years, all of them wealthy and large landowners, Mr. Forbes, in addition to his other possessions, being proprietor of the quicksilver mines, the richest in the world.  In fact, what between the old Spanish residents, and the claims purchased by and granted to natives of Great Britain, there is very little room for any fresh emigrants--a state of things that has set the Yankees grumbling above their breath, grudging the fairest section of their newly-acquired country to "strangers and interlopers," while some of them, taking advantage of the suspensory <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:situation of the country, and the questionable nature of title, audaciously squatted themselves on the most improved portions of the old settlers' property, trusting to time, chance, and the assistance of their brother Yankees--should need be--to confirm them in their possessions.  However, a summary eviction by one of the Mr. Murphys, assisted by a <HI REND="italics">posse comitatus</HI>
054.sgm: of his friends, nipped the squatting movement in the bud, and sent those lawless vagabonds to the rightabout.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>The Mansion House Hotel--Civic Propensities of San Jose&acute; Squirrels--Senor Don Antonio Sunol--His Garden--Vineyard and Home-made Wines--Meet other noble Spaniards there--Horse-racing in California--Electioneering and Sporting on Easter Monday--The Course--Spanish Amenity <HI REND="italics">v</HI>
054.sgm:. American Rudeness--The Race--The Victors and the Vanquished--A Yankee Drinking Match--Monte Dealing--A Californian Ball--The Senate and the Assembly--Legislative Furniture and <HI REND="italics">Fixins</HI>
054.sgm: --"Wait for a Pause"--Mode of Discussion--Dinner Hour--Clerks and Messengers.</p><P>DURING my stay in the pueblo I took up my abode at the Mansion House, a new hotel, built on the speculation of its being the stopping-place of the members of the senate and assembly, and those officials whom the affairs of government necessarily draw to the capital; it is immeasurably the best hotel in California, fully equal to those in the States, and was quite full during my sojourn, as both houses were in session; but after their adjournment its business must be very limited, as is the general trade of the town, which may be readily conceived when noticing the fact that ground squirrels (an animal nearly as timid as our rabbit) burrow in the plaza, and gambol about without any fear or apprehension.</p><P>I had the honour of introduction to Sen&tilde;or Don Antonio Sun&tilde;ol, a Spaniard of the highest family, whose household establishment is becomingly regulated; his garden, though not adjusted in the trim English style, contains a great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:variety and abundance of choice fruits, amongst which I observed a profusion of figs, peaches, and vines, clustered with their luscious burdens.  He took pride in showing me through it, and afterwards politely invited me to partake of lunch, when he produced a red wine of domestic manufacture, which, though rather heavy and fruity for my taste, possessed a very agreeable flavour; and I have no doubt, when the process comes to be more thoroughly understood, a very good beverage will be produced, as the Californian grape, when carefully cultivated, is of a superior quality, not of great size, but exceeding in taste and richness; there was also another liquor of Californian distillation on the table, of which I tasted, called "aguardi&acute;ente;" it is an extract of the grape, very palatable and potent, and improves very much, I understand, by age.</p><P>I met here again General Vallejo and Sen&tilde;or Don Emanuel Pico, a relative of the general's, and a thoroughbred hidalgo; very wealthy and exceedingly popular, from being passionately addicted to the sports and amusements in favour with his countrymen.  In the course of the preceding fall, at Sonoma, he matched a horse of his against an American nag, belonging to a Mr. Hudspeth, to run three hundred varas (a measure somewhat short of a yard), for 5000 dollars, and was beaten by a head, as he supposed, in consequence of a slip at the finish; which led to a new match, for 10,000 dollars, over an increased distance of five hundred varas, to come off on Easter Monday at the pueblo of San Jose&acute;.</p><P>As the time was now at hand, the interest became intense, and the betting both brisk and large; the Americans, to a man, backing their horse, and the Spaniards, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:on the other hand, being just as unanimous in upholding that of Sen&tilde;or Pico, all bets, according to the custom of the country, being staked when made.  Easter Monday was, therefore, a great gala day at the pueblo; and, in addition to its being a holiday, and having the attraction of the race, it was the day appointed for holding the election of all the officials of high and low degree under the new Californian constitution; so that we had beaux and belles tricked out in all their finery, sporting characters clamorously wagering, and politicians zealously canvassing for their various friends,--making up a medley of excitement, bustle, and interest, that never before had a parallel in this simple city.</p><P>It was arranged the race should take precedence, the start to be punctual at ten o'clock; shortly previous to which the whole population and visitors in procession with the horses moved off to the course, quite close to the town, amidst a hum of betting and conversation.  Neither of the nags showed much breeding, but exhibited a striking contrast in condition; Mr. Hudspeth's looking like a pampered sire, while the other appeared as if after a severe attack of influenza.  The jockeys were much of a size--mere children--clad with only a thin pair of drawers, bootless and spurless, carrying only a whip made like a top-scourge.  The course was perfectly straight, over two beaten tracks, about two feet wide, and four feet apart, running parallel; it was not staked or roped, but the spectators arranged themselves in two lines,--the foot people forming the inner rank, the horsemen the second, those in vehicles constituting the rear.</p><P>While the ground was being measured, hundreds of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:speculators, carrying about their dollars and dubloons in shawls and handkerchiefs, kept up a stormy vociferation, in which it was apparent the American horse had the call; and after all the money was staked, horses, mules, and accoutrements were betted one against the other, until four-fifths of those on the ground were implicated in the issue.  During the excitement the lines were somewhat broken, and the principals, with some special friends, rode along to have them readjusted, affording an opportunity of contrasting the demeanour of the Spaniard and the Yankee; the one all courtesy and urbanity, politely motioning the people back; the other, in a tone of vulgar insolence, using the most frightful imprecations, and plunging their horses amongst them whenever they came to a Spanish group.  I never remember to have been more deeply impressed with ineffable disgust than while witnessing this exhibition of arrogant brutality.  Talk of Americans "going ahead;" but in order to be unincumbered in the strife, they cast aside every figment of olden civilisation, not even retaining the fig-leaf of decency or decorum,--at least, so far as the Californian emigrants are concerned.</p><P>As soon as the lines were again formed, the jockeys were put up, bare backed, the horses being only girthed with a narrow surcingle, inside which they thrust their knees at an acute angle.  As they were led to the post, a nervous, breathless silence ensued, hearts beat quick, and the strained sight began to ache--they are turned; you might hear a pin fall; another throbbing moment--they are off--yes, they get off at the first attempt, going at scores from the jump, the thongs at work from the start.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:The pace was rather good, but the race was not in doubt for an instant, as Senor Pico's horse, evidently labouring under a shoulder strain, never extended himself, so that even in so short a distance he was beaten fifty yards.</p><P>The Yankee uproar was terrific, and the inherent bad taste and underbreeding evinced at the triumph, was the more repugnant from the placid and good-humoured temper in which the Spaniards bore their defeat.  "I knowed we would whip them damned tawneys," and such like expressions, met your ears at every turn, and as they led off the Spanish horses past their late master's, who were returning on foot to the town, they let slip no opportunity of venting their obscene and ribald buffoonery.</p><P>I was induced, by an indescribable feeling of attraction, as if to fill up the measure of my loathing at their day's conduct, to look on at a Yankee drinking-match, perfectly in character and keeping with the tenor of their other goings on.  It took place at one of the open booths on the course, attracting a great crowd, and giving rise to fresh bettings.  The man who won the toss for choice of fluids selected port wine, each tumbler having a raw egg broken into it--a potion that appeared to take his opponent by surprise; however, they went to work, and with the short necessary pauses, got up as high as the ninth glass each, when one betrayed symptoms of distress and, to make use of Lord Norbury's pun, could not "be egged on" any further, for, in attempting to raise the tenth to his mouth, the stomach rebelled, after a fashion that communicated a spasm of nausea to me, which it required all the muscular power in my throat to subdue.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:I afterwards heard the victor vauntingly proceeded to the baker's dozen, and wound up by drinking the spectators' health in a bumper of brandy-and-water.  There were other private racing matches, but the great bulk of the crowd returned to the town, where all the fondays (tarems) and gaming-houses were filled to excess.  It was observable in the Spanish houses that ladies set down to monte, betting, and smoking their tiny cigarettes with a most <HI REND="italics">nonchalant</HI>
054.sgm: air.</p><P>There was boisterous political excitement, ministered too freely with strong drinks; but the Spaniards, although possessing votes, did not take any interest or concern in the proceedings.  In order to see their method of conducting these establishments, I went to dine at one of the fondays, the apartment in which was a dingy one, and the implements not of the most burnished order, but the table-cloths were as white as virgin snow, and of fine fabric.  The fare was altogether confined to frigoles tortillas (half omelet, half pancake) and hashed beef, stewed in lard, and so highly seasoned with chile colorado, as to cause me to suck in cool air to sooth the palate.  They are wonderfully addicted to the use of pepper, and still more so in the Mexican country, where I have it on authority, that bandits who have been hung and left to swing in chains, as a terror to evil doers, are never touched by birds of prey, their flesh is so impregnated with this pimie&acute;nto.</p><P>There was a public ball in the evening, in a large room over one of the principal tiendas, which was well attended by the Spaniards, but the gaieties were disturbed in the early part of the evening by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:unauthorised intrusion of some tipsy Americans; order, however, was quickly restored by their summary ejection, when everything went on smoothly and delightfully.  I looked on in an ecstasy of admiration, as the lovely sen&tilde;orettas whirled past me in the giddy waltz, and gracefully glided through the mazes of the cotillon, skimming through the figures with a lithe dignity and easy elegance of style, that constituted the very "poetry of motion;" added to which, the irresistible magic of their manners, free from the slightest leaven of coquetry, not only led captive the outer senses, but suggested tenderer thoughts.  I felt this the more sensibly as the fair Francisco graciously assisted my limping Spanish, in its efforts to utter the feelings of the moment, archly smiling as they took the form of compliment to herself.</p><P>Next day I visited the houses of the Senate and Assembly, both of which august bodies are accommodated under the same roof, one down stairs the other above; but, by a sort of solecism in the arrangement, the Senate, or Upper House, occupy the lower apartment, which is a large, ill-lit, badly ventilated room, with a low ceiling, and a rough railing a little inside the door, beyond which none but the elect may pass.  Each member had a rush-bottomed arm-chair, and a small desk with stationery, that was not in much requisition.  At the further end, the Speaker was perched in a species of pulpit; the floor was covered with a number of little carpets, of various shapes and patterns, looking as if every member contributed a patch to make up the robe, which had quite a mosaic appearance, the idea of antiquity being assisted by the threadbare state of the whole.  A slip of paper was stuck with wafers on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the door as you entered, labelled "wait for a pause," reminding me of the familiar inscriptions on those of the billiard-rooms at home, "wait for the stroke," which, from the tumult inside, would be the more opposite of the two, from the great probability of its ending in blows.  The other apartment is precisely the same size, but has the advantage of greater loftiness, and exhibits at once the difference of grade betwixt the two bodies in the style of the furniture--plain common chairs, flat deal tables, and a strip of matting thrown where the feet are erroneously supposed to rest, being the extent of accommodation, a paltry difference, at best, and as it appeared to me, at variance with the republican doctrine of equality, and the "genius of free institutions."  A similar notice was stuck on this door; but were I to wait at the threshold of either house for a pause, I should wait for the daily adjournment, for the noise and jabbering was as incessant as the twittering of a flock of swallows chatting over their intended migration.</p><P>Nothing can be more remote from the regularity, decency, or decorum of deliberative assemblies, than the proceedings of these bodies; there was no order of debate or system of discussion, but a turbulent dinning colloquy, made up of motions, interruptions, assertions, and contradictions; several members generally on their legs at the same time, and those with legs on the tables, adding to the tumult by the music of their heels.  I never could catch the faintest idea of the subject under consideration, nor is it possible that the merits of any measure can be sifted under such a species of discussion.  They meet about ten o'clock, A.M., and are let loose for dinner at one o'clock, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:when they come out with a rush, like so many overgrown schoolboys.  It is unnecessary to add, that smoking, chewing, and whittling, do not constitute an infraction of the rules of either house, privileges that are accorded also to a squad of slip-shod clerks or messengers who loll about the stores, making a <HI REND="italics">tout ensemble</HI>
054.sgm: really unique, and entirely characteristic.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Remove into Country Quarters--Enchanting Appearances of the Valley--Delightful Climate--Agriculture in the Valley--The Breed of Cattle--Comparative Qualities of Native and Foreign Beef--Instinct of Birds of Prey--Bringing Cattle over the Plains a bad Speculation--Californian Horses--Their Powers of endurance--Often cruelly Taxed--System of Travelling--Their quick Sagacity in avoiding Squirrel Holes--Danger of Riding a Strange Horse over the Plains--Probable Cause of their Stunted Stature--Lassoing and Ox-throwing--Nice Palates of the Cattle--Domestic Fowls and Animals--Few Varieties of Game--Visit the Quicksilver Mines--Take a turn through the Ranches--No Butter, no Cheese in the Spanish Houses, owing to the Indolence of the Males--Other Evidences of their unconquerable Sloth--Fastidiousness of the Women in Washing--The Process--The Duties of the Men--Hospitality of the Spaniards--No expense in Travelling through the Valley--A charming Senoretta--The Incident of the handsome Trunk--Mode of Californian Courtship--Invited to a Wedding--Continue my Rambles--The Mustard-weed Nuisance.</p><P>I SHIFTED my quarters from the pueblo to the residence of Mr. Kell, a gentleman of English descent, settled in a lovely quarter of the valley; and as the distance was not very great, and being a good pedestrian, I sent on my luggage by waggon, and set out on foot, in company with a shillelah, proceeding leisurely, sitting in the shade at various points, to gloat over the gorgeous views that unfolded themselves in my progress.  My path lay for a good distance along the Rio Santa Clara, which waters the pueblo, and then receives the little tributes of the several arroyos that meander murmuringly through those fertile plains, all melted with glorious timber, contributing enough <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:of woodland scenery to adorn the enchanting landscape, and so pleasingly distributed, that officious art could scarce devise an improving charm; animated nature, too, contributed its quota to the effect on the numerous herds of fine cattle dotting the rich pasturage, resting in groups beneath the wide spreading trees, or standing in the cool purling currents, together with herds of horses, backed in for shelter under the umbrageous foliage, with here and there a snug rancho, disclosed by a slanting ray of sunshine, finished this transcendent picture, which, reposing in its grand natural frame of bold and handsome mountains, exhibited in reality a scene as rich and lovely as ever arose in the warm imagination of Berghem, or was portrayed by the delightful pencil of Claude Lorraine, under the influence of his happiest inspirations; and when added to its unapproachable pastoral charms, are its voluptuous and salubrious climate, for which it has been long justly celebrated, we have a location for settlement scarcely equalled, not to be surpassed, and extending over a space of nearly ninety miles long, and fully averaging five miles in width.</p><P>Mr. Kell has tried field and garden cultivation, the former on a very limited scale, but the latter with complete success, raisingpotatoes, onions, melons, pumpkins, and cabbages of the finest description; and Mr. Walker, a friend of his, told me, that at his ranch, near the Mission of Santa Clara, he, last season, secured two excellent crops of potatoes, putting in his second one early in August.  I did not see any grain, but it has been raised in particular localities susceptible of irrigation, which is indispensable in most seasons, confirming me in my opinion of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:general unfitness of California for extensive agricultural operations; great varieties of rich clover and indigenous grasses coat the plains in dense fleeces, exhibiting a succulent luxuriance, corroborative of my previous observations regarding portions of the Sacramento Valley, and proving that the moisture and genial temperature of the earth, essential to vegetation, is preserved by being sheltered from the exhaling rays of a scorching sun, by the thick close growth of herbage that is consequent on pasturage.</p><P>The breed of cattle are not to be excelled for milk or beef; and there is a peculiarity about them as contradistinguished from those that come across the plains, or those in our own country, that is strikingly remarkable; for their flesh can be used immediately after slaughter, eating as tenderly as if kept in the best ventilated meat-cellar, under the superintendence of the most watchful epicure for the prescribed time.  This I had a good opportunity of testing, as Mr. Murphy, a brother-in-law of Mr. Kell's, came up to the corral the evening after my arrival, with a <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
054.sgm: (a band of horses) and a large drove of cattle for the Stockton market, and, as he was accompanied by a number of Indian vacqueros, he killed a beef to supply them with rations.  I did not much approve of the method in which this operation was carried into effect, as, in my mind, the mode in vogue amongst the miners, that of shooting them, is much the speediest and most tidy plan.  The animal, in this instance, was first lassoed, then tripped up with ropes, and while kicking and struggling violently, was bestrode by one of the men, who plunged a long knife into his throat, taking fully two minutes to accomplish a deed that might have been achieved in as many seconds.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>I dined on a steak cut off this beast before the process of skinning was completed, and never, either in Dolly's or Jose&acute;'s, have I eaten a more tender morsel.  The extraordinary instinct of the carrion crow and turkey-buzzard on those occasions is somewhat wonderful; for, although you rarely if ever see them in your rambles, the lasso is not well around the victim, ere you observe numbers of those gloomy birds of prey moodily perched on the neighbouring trees, waiting for their repast on the entrails, without your being aware of their stealthy approach.</p><P>The speculation of bringing cattle across the plains, in anticipation of a scarcity from an increased consumption, has proved rather disastrous, as I learned from Mr. Murphy--a competent authority on the subject--that one tithe of the number is not now slaughtered for food, that used to be formerly, when a trade was carried on in hides and tallow.</p><P>The horses are under-sized and light limbed, but otherwise well-proportioned, and capable of enduring fatigue, and fasting to a marvellous degree; qualities that I frequently saw cruelly taxed by their owners, who set no value on the noble animal, riding one always on the full loup till he is used up, then turning him loose, and mounting a fresh one.  A late tourist in California, thus describes the manner of equestrian travelling there: "To account for fast travelling in California on horseback, it is necessary to explain the mode by which it is accomplished.  A gentleman who starts upon a journey of one hundred miles, and wishes to perform the trip in a day, will take with him ten fresh horses and a vacquero; the eight loose horses are placed under the charge of the vacquero, and are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:driven in front at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour, according to the speed that is required for the journey.  At the end of twenty miles, the horses which have been rode are discharged, and turned into the caballada, and horses which have not been rode, but driven along without weight, are saddled, mounted, and rode at the same speed, and so on to the end of the journey.  If a horse gives out from inability to proceed at this rate, he is left on the wayside, the owner's brand is upon him, and if of any value, can be recovered without difficulty.  But in California, no one thinks of stopping on the road on account of the loss of a horse, or his inability to travel at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour; horseflesh is cheap, and the animal must go on as long as he can, and when he cannot travel longer, he is left and another substituted."</p><P>The watchful caution and sagacity of the Californian horse in avoiding the squirrel-holes, with which the plains abound, is rather surprising, as one would imagine it would be impossible to discern them when going at top speed; yet a horse bred and reared in the country, rarely ever makes a <HI REND="italics">faux paux</HI>
054.sgm:.  Nor does the native rider ever bestow a thought on them as he races along, riata in hand, in pursuit of a wily mule or a wild steer, though, for my part I would rather ride a steeple-chase over the stiffest sections of our Connaught country, than cross those plains at a three-foot canter.  The American horse cannot even walk safely amidst those burrows, as was lamentably proved during my stay in the valley, in the death of Captain Fisher, resulting from a severe fall from a horse purchased from an incoming emigrant.</p><P>I conceive the stunted stature of the Californian horse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:is ascribable to breeding in and in; for rancheros pay no attention whatever to the changing of the blood, or obtaining fresh stallions, leaving the old stud-horses amongst their mares until they become impotent, and then selecting a young sire from the herd of the self-same stock.  It is curious enough, that notwithstanding the consanguinity of the Mexican and Californian, and their versimilitude of tastes and customs, the latter never thinks of breeding mules, which animal is such a general favourite with their southern neighbours.  All those to be found in Alta California were either brought over the plains, by the American emigrants, or by the Sonorians or Mexicans coming up to the mines.</p><P>I have already noticed the expertness and precision of the Spaniards in throwing the riata, and their skill as horsemen; but in the valley of San Jose&acute; I saw both acquirements carried to still higher perfection, and a new mode of dealing with an obstinate ox, who, after breaking the riata, was still followed up by the rider, and, when making a short turn, as the pursuer reached his quarters, got a sudden jerk by the grasped tail in the opposite direction, which brought him to the ground with a concussion that stunned him beyond further resistance.  I have been also assured, on respectable authority, that it is not an unusual feat to catch a wild-goose on the lasso, which I can readily believe, from having seen the proximity into which they will permit you to approach; so that a noose, thrown dexterously amongst the flock, is likely to catch either a neck, leg, or pinion.</p><P>The water in the arroyos is clear and limpid in the extreme, free, too, from any peculiarity of taste to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:human palate.  Not so, however, with the brute creation, who may be seen daily coming of their own accord, in vast elongated strings, single file, crossing several of those streams, until they reach the particular one they relish, and, after slaking their thirst, returning to their own beat in the same order, never stopping to brouse or commingle with the other herds through which they pass.</p><P>Pigs of an improved breed are plentiful in the valley, and propagated largely by the settlers from the old country; but the Spaniards eschew them alive, and decline the use of porcine diet, not from any qualms of conscience, but from scruples of stomach, arising from the unclean habits of the animals--an arrogance of palatial taste that, I believe, is not indulged in by the proudest nobles of Old Spain, and one that is supremely ridiculous in a people who are culpably lax in many of their tastes and customs.  Sheep are not bred or fed in the valley, from the quantity of coyotes that abound there, but are brought up, through it, to the Francisco market, from the Monterey district.  They are of a gaunt and miserable description, light in carcase, making dry and flavourless mutton; but as fine poultry as are to be met with in any country may be seen around every rancho.  The only game of any description is the grizly bear and blacktailed deer, the varieties of the feathered tribe being confined to those I have already enumerated as resorting to the Valley of the Sacramento.</p><P>I made an excursion to the quicksilver-mines of Mr. Forbes, accomplishing a distance of thirteen miles under forty minutes. They are situated on a hip of the western range of mountains by which the valley is bounded, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:abound in ore of the very richest description.  They are easily wrought, but have never been worked on a systematic or profitable scale.  Now, however, from the enormous demand for the article as a subsidiary agent in the neighbouring gold mines, the proprietor, in conjunction with a company of scientific capitalists, are making very extensive preparations for working them.  There are said to be other quicksilver, and rich silver mines in the valley, but their whereabouts is kept a profound secret, pending the settlement of the disputed title question.</p><P>I made my billet for the night at the rancho of M. Nairzes, a gentleman of good Spanish family, that came to settle at the original colonisation of the country, obtaining a grant of the largest magnitude.  The residence is of adobe bricks, and must, at its first erection, have been a goodly-looking country residence, but, from want of repair, its exterior has contracted an appearance of decay that, however, does not extend to the interior, which is still commodious and comfortable.  I was most hospitably received, and regaled on the usual fare of stewed beef, served up somewhat in the shape of currie, with tutillas and coffee.  There was plenty of rich milk, but no butter; and, to my surprise, I found that neither it or cheese are generally made by the natives, who, on particular occasions, purchase it from the other settlers.  This unprecedented and disgraceful state of things arises from the incorrigible lethargy and indolence of the men, who rest satisfied with the single article of milk, declining to enlarge their domestic comforts at the slight trouble it would cost them of catching and taming to the habit of hand-milking a few more of the fine animals by which they are surrounded.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:Thus, the women are exempt from any blame in the matter; and, from two instances that came within my observation, where Irish settlers took Spanish wives, I am convinced, if they were afforded the opportunity, they would not only supply their household demand, but extend their dairy operations to meet the vast and profitable demand which has latterly sprung up in California for fresh butter.</p><P>But the inborn sloth of the male Spaniard is so deeply rooted, it appears hopeless to think of extirpating it, either by stimulus or example, of which no further proof need be sought than their continuing to use the old abominable carreta, while they see their new neighbours bringing loads on their commodious waggons, with a single yoke of oxen, that it would require three yoke even to move in their ponderous, ill-contrived vehicles.  They have not a spark of ambition in their nature, save that which is akin to the lust of savage pageantry, in adorning their persons with gaudy attire, and arraying their steeds with glittering caparisons.  The limited duties which are indispensably forced upon them of keeping their herd together, occasionally driving some to market, killing one for consumption, and cutting firewood, are only discharged under the compulsion of circumstances; for I really believe, if they could eke out existence on the suction of their thumbs, they would never be roused into action, unless it were by the excitement of a bull-fight or the attractions of the gaming-table.  It is not, therefore, to be deplored that such a country as California is passing away from the occupation of such a race, nor do I conceive it uncharitable to desire that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:finer region of Sonora may soon come into the possession of some more energetic nation, that will make its mineral and other resources subservient to the increasing wants of mankind.  The females, as I before observed, are worthy of a far better order of helpmates, for all that comes within their province is tended with a care, taste, and assiduity that is in strange contrast with what I have already noticed.  Even in their washing they are so scrupulously particular; they think nothing of going from eight to twelve miles to find water of good detergent properties.  In this they may be truly said to excel, obtaining a purity of colour, and putting it out of hands with an artistic finish that leaves nothing to be desired.  The first part of the process is gone through with the soap-root, which abounds in the valley; the next with an excellent homemade soap, resembling that we call Castilian; that both cleanses to perfection, and imparts a bouquet to the linen which is palpable and agreeable.</p><P>There is one virtue that must not be denied the Spaniard of California, and that is, hospitality, which they exercise with a hearty graciousness that wins upon your partiality, notwithstanding all their other shortcomings; it also prevails amongst the foreign settlers, in its most genuine guise; so that, unlike the valleys of the Sacramento and the San Joaquim, where the worldly mania has superseded that domestic virtue, a man may travel where he lists without incurring any expense whatsoever, even were he inclined to be extravagant.  I never spent a night in any ranch in that district without finding other strangers who were attended with a degree of kindly solicitude, that could not be purchased at a house of entertainment.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<P>In recording the hospitality of M. Navizes, I cannot neglect noticing, nor shall I readily forget, the queenly manner in which his lovely daughter done the honours of the establishment, though a young girl, scarce seventeen, and rarely moving beyond the sphere of her paternal hearth.  She was not only free from any embarrassing shyness, but deported herself with a modest self-possession and <HI REND="italics">nai&die;vete</HI>
054.sgm: of manner, that would arrest admiration in the most refined society.  In the course of the evening I observed a handsome, highly-ornamented trunk at one end of the apartment, and in noticing its decorative finish, I thought I detected a transient blush suffusing the delicate cheek of the maiden, and a slight hesitation of expression, that made me apprehensive I had broached an unpleasant subject, until, on looking round, I was reassured by the happy chuckle of Sen&tilde;or N., who playfully pressed the fair girl to gratify my curiosity regarding it; but she evaded the paternal request, and hurried into an adjoining room, casting back a soft, mild frown, that appeared on very intimate terms with good humour.</p><P>The history of maleta (trunk) was then narrated to me by the old man.  In California, it is the custom, when a young gentleman conceives an attachment for a fair lady, instead of avowing his passion in stammering sentences, to send a handsome maleta to his sweetheart, containing various articles of female apparel of the finest and most fashionable description; if she accepts and retains the present, it is considered tantamount to a recognition of the swain's pretension; but if returned, he must bow to his hard fate: a primitive sort of proceeding, that tends to supersede all the painful hemming, hawing, and that-is-to-saying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:inseparable from a <HI REND="italics">vive-voce</HI>
054.sgm: popping of the question; while, at the same time, in adverse circumstances, it relieves the sen&tilde;oritta from the harsh necessity of pronouncing the cruel decree, and withstanding the pitiable sighs of the lovelorn aspirant while receiving his future doom.  Sen&tilde;oritta N., her father told me, had, with his consent, decided on retaining her maleta, and an early day was fixed for the marriage, at which I was pressed to be a guest during the usual festivities, but my other arrangements compelled me to forego the pleasure.</p><P>I continued my delightful rambles through the valley for several days, exploring its most secluded retreats, penetrating to its most retired beauties, and visiting most of the native and foreign ranches, those of my country-men amongst the number, where the true Milesian "cead mille faltagh" awaited me, which I enjoyed with the greater satisfaction and delight, as I felt assured that the easy, affluent circumstances of my friends warranted them in indulging their natural disposition to a most liberal extent, without, in the slightest way, trenching upon their resources; and, in some of the happy evenings I spent amongst them, it afforded me a tearful pleasure--appreciating another fine trait of national character--as I witnessed the strong feelings of sympathy and sorrow they evinced, in adverting to the miseries of their suffering brethren at home, "starving and dying," as they said, "on the green fields of poor Erin, while they had enough and to spare in a foreign land."</p><P>Amongst all the settlements I did not see any amount of cultivation worth noticing, not that there are not many districts where corn could be successfully raised, but the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:unaccustomed trouble of irrigation, the scarcity and dearness of labour, coupled with the moderate price of imported flour, caused agriculture to be neglected.  There is one national nuisance the valley is subject to, which it is found next thing to impossible to abate--I mean the wild mustard, which invades the richest pasturage, covering large tracts of the choicest land, to the annihilation of all other vegetation; for it is of such rank growth, it attains a height of nine and ten feet, and its small imponderous seed is carried about by the slightest current of air.  From experiments, it has been ascertained that it could be destroyed by repeated cuttings down during the season; but as the germs are found to be carried about, and deposited with the ordure of the cattle, all attempts, unless unanimously adopted throughout, must prove useless, where, in absence of all fences, the cattle of the indifferent man may wander over the grounds of his more painstaking neighbour.  When sprouting in the early spring, the young sprouts of the mustard make a most tender and delicious greens, superior to our early York or spinach; and in the fall, the tall stems, that are quite as large as the sugar cane, rot and wither into the earth, barely leaving a trace of their existence.</p><P>During all my wanderings in the valley, I saw only one snake, and that of very diminutive dimensions, not thicker than a large worm.  The rattlesnake was said to exist there, but none have been seen for years.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
054.sgm:<P>Vexations of Authorship--Indian Imitativeness--Start for San Francisco--Find the Steamer withdrawn--A Bull F-r-ight--Fatal Termination--Arrive at Mr. Martin's Ranch--The Accident of his Settlement--Senora Martin and Family--The House and Furniture--Arrangements for Travelling--Attend Divine Service at the Mission of Santa Clara--Appearance of the Mission--Devotional <HI REND="italics">Alameda</HI>
054.sgm: --Buttresses or Pillars of the Church--Carved and Painted Parables--State of Affairs at the Mission--Abortive Attempts of the Jesuits to found Schools in the Valley--Predicament of the Settlers on Church Property--Scene of Leavetaking--Presents, Emotions, and Reflections--Scenery along the Bay--The Rancho of Don Antonio Sanchez--The Mission of St. Francis Dolores--Francisco Cockneys--The remainder of the Road--My Farewell and Peroration.</p><P>ON my return to Mr. Kell's, I found some letters awaiting me, that called me back to Francisco-rather a provoking thing, as I laid out my accounts to visit Monterey, San Diego, and the coast countries in that direction.  I also found other food for vexation, in the scrawled and blotted state of a large note-book, which I left in my room, containing memoranda of my rambles, which, as I transcribed and amplified, I scratched over, that I might the more readily refer to the remainder; but an Indian muchaca (young girl), who acted in the capacities of chamber and kitchen-maid, got hold of the book, and amused herself in manufacturing hieroglyphics, in imitation of mine, rendering several pages completely illegible, which entailed considerable bother on me, and afforded me the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:satisfaction of getting laughed at, as I took the unsophisticated creature to task for the mischief.</p><P>I set out next day on my return, packing my kit on a second horse, and taking a vacquero with me to bring back the animals; but on reaching the embarcadero, I had the mortification to find that the little steamer had been withdrawn from the station, and as at that season the winds prevail from the north and north-west, causing sailing craft to make tedious passages, I determined on sending my luggage by water, and going overland myself; but to accomplish this, it was necessary either to buy or hire a horse, as I could not take Mr. Kell's nag any further.  I ascertained on inquiry I might suit myself at a Mr. Martin's, whose ranch was a few miles off, in the direction my route lay.  As I was proceeding towards it, walking leisurely, in a meditative mood, through a herd of cattle, a jealous bull broke in upon my reverie, and made me retreat precipitately into some trees, that very fortunately were close at hand, amongst which I evaded him, and by means of a riven limb, got into a fork about eight feet from the ground.  He came right under me, bellowing and tearing up the earth, and pertinaciously remained, though I waited over half an hour, hoping to tire him out; but as no reprieve appeared likely to arrive, and seeing my only means of escape was by shooting him, I drew my pistol from my belt, and stretched my arm down, he at the same time raising his head up until the muzzle almost came in contact with it, thus enabling me to make a certain and speedy job of it, for he fell with the report, and scarcely even quivered.</p><P>Mr. Martin is a gentleman well advanced in years, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:nearly transmuted into a Spaniard, from his long residence in the country, not even speaking his own language with perfect fluency. He is a native of Scotland, and was cast away on the coast some twenty-five years ago, leading for some time an erratic and strangely chequered life, until he became the inmate of a Spanish family, amongst which he found his present wife, with whom he received as a portion his present rancho--one of great extent and fertility.</p><P>Sen&tilde;ora M. reminded me of Dr. Parr's pedantic designation of the late Lady Blessington, being really a "gorgeous" personage--tall, finely moulded, of that voluptuous style of beauty that comes within George the Fourth's category of "fat, <HI REND="italics">brown</HI>
054.sgm:, and forty."  Her three daughters are about the most faultlessly beautiful girls I ever saw; and in that country, where personal charms are so warmly appreciated, and marriages take place at so early an age, I expected to have discovered several maletas in the house.</p><P>I did not meet so well furnished and regulated a house-hold in all my peregrinations as Sen&tilde;or M.'s; every article being of a good and handsome description, all in their proper places, and scrupulously neat.  The house--a spacious one--containing several rooms, all distinct from each other, entered from a long piazza extending along the entire front of the building.  I here revelled in the luxury of a regularly furnished bed and chamber, expanding myself betwixt sheets of snowy whiteness, and nestling my head on a tastefully fringed pillow, secure from the shafts of the sleepless musquito, within gauze curtains, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:arranged in the stead of other drapery, with a Yankee clock to mislead me into a long morning's nap.</p><P>I could not induce Sen&tilde;or M. to sell me a horse or mule under any consideration; but I had the option of choosing any one from amongst his entire stock, selling it when I reached my destination, and sending him the proceeds by a trading captain he named--a kindness for which I suppose I was indebted to my being a brother Briton.  But notwithstanding the urgency of my business, he would not hear of my leaving next day, which, being Sunday, I accompanied Sen&tilde;ora M. and her interesting family to prayers, at the Mission Church of Santa Clara.  Our drive was a sweet one of nearly four miles, principally over Sen&tilde;or M.'s lands, partly in the direction of the pueblo of San Jose&acute;.</p><P>The Mission is built in unison with the prevailing designs of those ecclesiastical establishments--the rectories and church--of adobe, and in a better state of repair and preservation than most of the other Missions, owing, I conceive, to its contiguity to the pueblo, as several of the inhabitants make it a practice of frequenting it on church-going days, in preference to hearing mass at home; for they can combine recreation with piety in strolling along the noble alameda (shady avenue) which extends the greater part of the way, in whose delicious shade devout reflections, and inspirations of sanctity, are wont to be invoked by pious pilgrims as they saunter along to the shrine of their religious duties, who, on the day in question, as indeed on all occasions of the sort, were principally composed of the softer sex, the others contenting themselves with a bare profession of faith, being rather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:<HI REND="italics">buttresses</HI>
054.sgm: than <HI REND="italics">pillars</HI>
054.sgm: of the church, as some wag remarked of a great stickler for his creed, who never entered the precincts of such an edifice, or subjected himself to any of its self-denying ordinations.</p><P>The interior of the church is spacious, but plain even to coarseness, hung round with prints and figures, parables in painting and carving, in which the design is so obscure that, like the signboard where the identity of the animal was doubtful, they require a key to arrive at elucidation.  There is only one padre&acute; now attached to the Mission, whose labours are altogether confined to his clerical duties; for there, as well as in all the others, the schools of trade and education have been abandoned, and the Indians permitted to relapse into their primitive barbarity.</p><P>A body of French Jesuits lately visited the valley, with a view to promote secular education; but the jealousy of the Spanish clergy was so inveterate, they would not be allowed any footing, much to the chagrin and disappointment of the numerous settlers, one of whose most perplexing difficulties is the education of their children.</p><P>The lands around Santa Clara are about the finest in the valley, and are principally in the possession of old country settlers, who bought their interests from the different incumbents--purchases, I have my fears, will be disturbed, from the tenor of Carey Jones's report respecting church property, already quoted, and from the fact that the present occupiers, for the most part, are emigrants from the "Sea-girth Isle."  There are the remains of extensive orchards, gardens, and vineyards adjoining the church and residence of the padre&acute;, but the walls <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:have crumbled down, and the unpruned trees have run into a tangled mass of wild shoots, looped together with the tendrils of various parasites, bearing only an abortive fruit, that conveys a very faint resemblance of the delicious varieties that cumbered their branches in the palmy days of Mission management.</p><P>Next morning, through the kindness of my excellent host, I was saved the trouble of selecting a horse; for after breakfast I saw a spicy nag, fully caparisoned, paraded in front of the house by a vacquero, which Sen&tilde;or M. informed me was intended for my use, at the same time giving me a superb pair of Mexican spurs as a souvenir; after which I went to say my adios to the ladies, who were in a group under the verandah, constituting a family picture, the very personification of domestic felicity and personal loveliness.  I felt an affecting tingle pervade my nerves as I went through the ceremony of leave-taking, which was augmented in no small degree as Sen&tilde;oritta Julia, gently pushed forward by her mamma, presented me with a pretty silken purse, the joint production of the fair sisterhood--a compliment so gracious, so wholly unexpected, and tendered by a young and lovely girl, with such an artless but enchanting sincerity of manner, impressed me with emotions of the most tender gratitude, which, I fear, I failed to convey with becoming feeling in the few thankful expressions of acknowledgment I managed to utter.  I cantered off amidst the kindly adios of this charming family; and as I rapidly skirted round the extremity of the beautiful bay, I resigned my horse to his own impulses, carried away in a current of ruminations on the subject of maletas, and that pantomimic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:mode of eliciting reciprocity of sentiment on the most important and eventful condition of society, while I also indulged in interjectionary conjectures as to whether or not Sen&tilde;oritta Julia ever had one sent her.</p><P>The scenery along the bay-shore is of a quiet but pleasing character; the mountain-sides and skirts serrated with deep ravines, densely timbered, and opening into numerous vistas, across which the deer bounded, startled by the unusual echoes of my progress.  At times I emerged into wide tracts of open country, subsiding into hanging slopes from the ridge of mountains that run parallel between the bay and the ocean, covered to their summits with a luxurious growth of wild oats and barley.</p><P>Being alone, and wishing to reach Francisco before dark, I pushed along at a pace that would keep me in a good place with a pack of harriers; and after four hours, arrived at the ranch of Don Antonio Sanchez, a distance of over forty miles, just as the family dinner was being served up, to which I was hospitably invited, and felt just in the vein for the meal after my appetising canter.  I got there a sample of aguadiente of a most excellent quality, that made as agreeable a potion as poteen or cognac, a proof that, with proper care, a capital spirit may be produced.  I rested two hours, and procured a good feed of barley for my horse, who resumed his journey with as much pluck and spirit as he commenced it.</p><P>I got to the Mission of St. Francis Dolores sufficiently early in the evening to give time for a stroll round its precincts.  The olden bounds of the Mission are about the same extent of Santa Clara, and like it, too, they are in a somewhat better state of repair and preservation than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the general run of those establishments; but there is quite a town springing up about it, subject to the prevailing epidemic of lot speculation.  It is a favourite place of resort on Sundays for the Francisco cockneys, who may be seen pic-nicking on the hill sides, paddling about the bay-shores, and scrambling over the heights, with fully the industry and enterprising inquisitiveness of their Bow-bell brethren on their rural expeditions.  The lands are of the finest description, and fully cropped with preemption squatters, elbowing each other in territorial anticipations.</p><P>The road thence to Francisco is over and around sand-hills, partially covered with a scrubby evergreen oak, wild gooseberry-bushes, and other shrubs and brambles, that have not as yet been baptised in the botanical font; but it is surveyed most of the way, and laid out in streets and squares, which, as I before remarked, bewilder the traveller, who, in vainly looking for the outlines of the city, calls to mind dreadful legends of quicksands and earthquakes of immemorial voracity.  I, however, succeeded in reaching the real city before dark, and next day, by the aid of a little judicious puffing, found a customer for the game little horse, at a price that must have pleased, if not astonished, my good friend Mr. Martin.</p><P>And now, gentle reader, it comes to our turn to part, after having travelled some thousands of miles good-humouredly together, for rambles, like every other sublunary undertaking, must have an end at some point or period; but in saying farewell, permit me to express a hope that we may meet again, travelling "in search of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:the picturesque" or marvellous; for I do not intend sitting down the remainder of my days, kicking my heels against the chair rung.  Like most ramblers, I have contracted quite a fancy for change of scene, and if I can only muster change enough to gratify the propensity, you will very probably hear of me on some dissolute island, dressed like Brian O'Lynn, "who had no coat to put on," waiting for some stray ship to restore me to my sorrowing friends.</p><P>Perhaps, too, in recounting my erratic movements, I may be enabled to weave a moral into the narrative, which I vainly endeavoured to in the present case, though, mayhap, one may lie ensconsced in a corner without my ever dreaming of it--a circumstance, I am told, not of unfrequent occurrence in the literature of the day, the majority of authors being such a marvellously proper order of men, that their most fugitive pieces, their most random records, may become unconsciously imbued with the delectable tone of their minds, and a fine ethic lesson silently break the shell, becoming full-fledged before the author of its being even bestows a thought on the hatching of it.</p><P>Betwixt ourselves and the wall, however, I will can didly admit, that neither the journey nor my book were undertaken under any philanthropic impulse; the truth is, that having no potatoes to dig at home, I set out with a view of keeping my hand in practice, by digging in the bountiful fields of California.  But though there was no rot in the crop there, nor greedy landlords to watch me, I found the produce was most jealously guarded by agues, and fevers, and scurvies, and rheumatisms, ever ready to pounce upon the avaricious intruder; and I saw some, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:dared to brave the terror of those sleepless guardians, worried to death in their relentless fangs, and others, scarcely more fortunate, crawling away from the encounter, maimed and shaken to the inmost sources of vitality.  Permit me to ask you, can "life be sweet" whose every pulsation inflicts a sting, that throbs to the agony of some gnawing malady, that is dragged out in sighs and moans, and the torturings of regret and remorse, tantalised by luxuries it durst not taste, though within reach of the gold, whose acquisition entailed those irremediable miseries?</p><P>Wretched victim of cupidity, your riches are vile trash, your repinings are unavailing, your sufferings are ineradicable.  Gold cannot avert your premature fate--induce one ray of consolation--nor propitiate the serene smiles or blessings of health which you bartered with the demon of avarice.  Life is only sweet when conscience sits calmly on its throne, when its sources are unpolluted with disease, even though it be spent on the bare necessaries required for its sustentation.  It is seldom the sweeter for gold.  No; gold more frequently embitters its relations; yet to become possessed of it, we toil, and work, and go to law, and fight--nations as well as individuals--and when possessed, is it not squandered in health-destroying pursuits and sinful occupations, producing enervating excitement for the minute, while the hour is eked out in morbid cravings and maddening reflections.  On the other hand, placid, unalloyed happiness fixes its abode in the more humble dwelling, where gold is a stranger, where the wages of healthful exertion are appetite and sweet repose, and where true pleasure and enjoyment are spontaneous visitors to gladden the pauses of vocation.  I imagine I hear your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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054.sgm:reply, "That's all mighty fine, and though true in the main, few would accept happiness on the terms, if they had the option of gilding their career"--an observation in which I cannot help coinciding.  Nay, I will go further, and candidly admit, even after elaborating those opinions with considerable effort, that one of the strongest stimulants in my scribbling, was the desire of gaining gold.</p><P>THE END.</p></DIV>
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055.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-055</TITLE>
055.sgm:<TITLE>Recollections and opinions of an old pioneer.  By Peter H. Burnett: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
055.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
055.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
055.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
055.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
055.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
055.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>01-006673</LCCN>
055.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
055.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>5033</COPYRIGHT>
055.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>RECOLLECTIONS AND OPINIONS <LB>OF AN <LB>OLD PIONEER.</P>
055.sgm:<P>BY PETER H. BURNETT, <LB>THE FIRST GOVERNOR OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
055.sgm:<P>NEW YORK: <LB>D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, <LB>1, 3, AND 5 BOND STREET. 1880.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT BY <LB>D. APPLETON AND COMPANY. <LB>1880.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>TO <LB>COL. ALEXANDER W. DONIPHAN, <LB>THE XENOPHON OF THE MEXICAN WAR, <LB>THE ABLE AND ELOQUENT ADVOCATE, <LB>THE MAN OF UNDOUBTED INTEGRITY, <LB>This Work is Dedicated, <LB>AS EVIDENCE OF THE ADMIRATION AND ESTEEM <LB>OF HIS OLD FRIEND, <LB>THE AUTHOR.</P>
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055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>In the month of October, 1860, I began to write out my recollections and opinions, intending to leave the manuscript to my children, as I thought that a true account of my opinions, and long and diversified experience, might be of benefit to them and their posterity, though of less importance to others.  But I had not progressed very far before I was interrupted by several causes.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Since November, 1860, I had not further prosecuted my design until the month of March, 1878.  In the month of December, 1877, a learned and distinguished historian, then and now engaged in writing a general history of the Pacific coast, called upon me, and kindly requested me to furnish him with such historical data as I possessed. Having already reduced to writing a considerable portion of my recollections and opinions, I determined to finish the work I had undertaken, and to permit him to take a copy of all, or such portions as he might desire, for his use in preparing his own history.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I had lived so long and seen so much, and my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The work, having been originally intended for my children, contains much personal and family history, more interesting to my relatives than to the general reader.  Yet, as my own history is connected to some extent with that of the Western and Pacific States, I think there are some facts stated of general importance, which have not been, perhaps, so fully recorded by others.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I was born a pioneer, as Nashville at the date of my birth was but a small village, and Tennessee a border-State, but thinly populated.  I have been a pioneer most of my life; and whenever, since my arrival in California, I have seen a party of immigrants, with their ox-teams and white-sheeted wagons, I have been excited, have felt younger, and was for the moment anxious to make another trip.  If the theory of Symmes had been proven by time to be true, and had a fine and accessible country been discovered at the north or south <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>While the settlement of a new country is full of perils, hardships, and privations, it is still exceedingly interesting.  The first settlers find nature in a state of grand repose; but this repose is soon followed by great activity and most satisfactory progress.  In some five or six years the orchards begin to bear their fruits, smiling villages, pleasant homes, and happy families are seen on all sides, and "the wilderness begins to blossom as the rose."</P>
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055.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>Ancestry: The Burnets--The Hardemans.  Removals: To the Farm--To Missouri.  Mode of Living--Manners and Customs.  Bee-Hunt--Fisticuff Fights--Lazy Bill.  Prairies--Their Origin.  Return to Tennessee--Employed as Clerk in an Hotel.  Samuel Houston--Newton Cannon--Andrew Martin--David Crockett--Adam Huntsman.  W. B. Peck--John Y. Cockram--Peter Minner.  Courtship and Marriage.  Purchase of the Store--Death of a Burglar.  Return to Missouri--Crockett and Huntsman<HSEP>1</P>
055.sgm:<P>CHAPTER II.<LB>Act as Clerk for a Time--Then go into the Mercantile Business with Others.  Return to the Law--Employed by the Mormon Elders--Proceedings on Habeas Corpus.  Oration by Sidney Rigdon--Sermon by Joseph Smith, Jr.--Battle between the Danites and Captain Bogard.  Militia ordered out--Surrender of the Mormons.  Prisoners brought before Judge King--Joseph Smith, Jr.--Lyman Wight--Sidney Rigdon.  Appointed District Attorney--Qualifications of a Good Lawyer--Laborious Practice.  Difficulty of administering Criminal Justice--A Noted Criminal--An Able and Upright Judge.  Case of Whittle--Judge Austin A. King.  Characteristics of Lawyers--Nature of Legal Investigations--Difficulty of Simplifying the Law--Causes of Infidelity among Lawyers.  Political Views.  Remarks on Dueling.  Join the Disciples--Art of Governing Children<HSEP>48 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>CHAPTER III.<LB>Determine to go to Oregon--Arrive at the Rendezvous--Remarks on the Nature of the Trip.  Start from the Rendezvous--Kill our First Buffalo--Kill our First Antelope--Description of the Antelope. Cross to the Great Valley of the Platte--Buffalo Hunt--Description of that Animal.  Cross the South Fork--Arrive at Fort Laramie--Cheyenne Chief--Cross the North Fork--Deaths of Paine and Stevenson--Cross Green River--Arrive at Fort Hall.  Leave Fort Hall--Sage-Brush Lands--Salmon Falls--The Spear of the Indian Fisherman--Cross Snake River--Kill a Large Salmon.  Boiling Spring--Fort Boise--Burnt River--The Lone Pine--The Grande Ronde--The Blue Mountains--Arrive at Dr. Whitman's Mission--Arrive at Walla Walla.  Descend the River to the Dalles--Leave my Family there--Go to Vancouver and Return--Governor Fremont.  Go with my Family to Vancouver--Indian Tradition--The Town of Linnton.  Purchase a Claim-- Climate and Scenery of Oregon--Number of our Immigrants--Assistance rendered our Immigration.  Dr. John McLoughlin--James Douglas--Policy of the Hudson's Bay Company in its Intercourse with the Indians<HSEP>97</P>
055.sgm:<P>CHAPTER IV.<LB>Rocky Mountain Trappers--Their Peculiar Character--Black Harris--Joseph L. Meek--O. Russell--Robert Newell.  The Provisional Government.  Condition of the People--Hardships endured by the Early Settlers.  Become a Catholic--My General Rule as to Charges against Me.  Misstatements of W. H. Gray.  The Question whether there were any Constitutional Provisions in the Laws of 1843 considered. The Legislative Committee of 1844--Mistakes of W. H. Gray.<HSEP>154</P>
055.sgm:<P>CHAPTER V.<LB>The Act in regard to Slavery and Free Negroes and Mulattoes--Misrepresentations of W. H. Gray.  W. H. Gray--Criticism upon the History of Oregon.  Elected Judge of the Supreme Court--Strange Resolution--Jesse Applegate.  The Act to Prohibit the Introduction, Manufacture, Sale, and Barter of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:Ardent Spirits.  Treaty of June 15, 1846--Policy of the Hudson's Bay Company--H. A. G. Lee--Indian Character.  Massacre of Dr. Whitman and Others--Indian War--Its Result<HSEP>212</P>
055.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VI.<LB>Discovery of Gold in California--Determine to go to the Mines--Organize a Wagon-Party.  Off for California--Incidents of the Trip.  Overtake Peter Lassen and his Party--Arrival in the Sacramento Valley.  Arrive at the House of Peter Lassen--Origin of the Term "Prospecting"--Arrival in the Mines--Mining.  The Donner Party.  A Lonely Grave--Death of David Ray--John C. McPherson<HSEP>252</P>
055.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VII.<LB>Leave the Mines--Arrive at Sutter's Fort--Become the Agent of John A. Sutter, Jr.--Captain John A. Sutter--Discovery of Gold.  Selling Lots in Sacramento--Necessity of some Governmental Organization--Public Meeting at Sacramento City.  Rivalry between Sacramento and Sutterville--Journey to San Francisco--Wonderful Coincidences--State of Society.  Sailing Ships arrive with Gold-Seekers--Their Speculative Character--Gold-Washing Machines--Climate of San Francisco.  Unsatisfactory Condition of the Government of the District of San Francisco.  Communication to the "Alta California"--Failure of the Attempt to hold a Convention to frame a Provisional Government<HSEP>286</P>
055.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>Return to Sacramento--Come a Second Time to San Francisco--Become a Member of the Legislative Assembly--Extracts from the Address of that Body to the People of California--Extracts from General Riley's Proclamation--Address of the Committee of Five.  Extracts from my Second Communication to the "Alta California"--Grounds of General Riley's Views as to the Right of the People of California to organize a Provisional Government--Grounds of those who claimed that Right--The Controversy most fortunate for California--All Things happily tended to produce the Main Result desired by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:Main Points to consider in making Loans--Devices to obtain Credit.  A Good Banker may often save his Customers from Losses against their Will--Incidents of the Suspension of certain Banks in 1875--Difficulty of obtaining Faithful Employees.  Extreme Wealth not the Happiest Condition in Life--Reasons for this Conclusion.  Wives should be consulted about all Important Affairs--Daughters should be taught a Knowledge of Business--Conclusion<HSEP>404</P>
055.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.<LB>ANCESTRY:  THE BURNETS--THE HARDEMANS.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>I AM the eldest son of George and Dorothy Burnet, and was born in Nashville, Tennessee, November 15, 1807.  My father was born in Pittsylvania County, Virginia, September 26, 1770, and died in Clay County, Missouri, February 22, 1838.  The family all spelled the name with a single t.  When I was about nineteen, I added another t, and my example has been followed by all my brothers.  My reason for the change was the opinion that the name would be more complete and emphatic when spelled Burnett.</P>
055.sgm:<P>My mother was the daughter of Thomas Hardeman, and was born in Davidson County, Tennessee, May 15, 1786, and died in Platte County, Missouri, March 17, 1843.  My grandfather Hardeman was born in Virginia, January 8, 1750; and his brother, whom I never saw, settled in Georgia.  My grandfather Hardeman was among the first settlers of Tennessee, and participated in the Indian wars of that country.  He was a stout man, possessed a very fine constitution, a determined will, and <HI REND="italics">naturally</HI>
055.sgm: a splendid intellect.  His education was originally very limited, but by study he became a man of distinction.  He was the neighbor and warm friend of General Andrew Jackson, and was, with the General, a member of the first Constitutional <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>My grandfather Hardeman was twice married, his two wives being sisters, but all his children were the issue of his first marriage.  He brought up his sons to his own business, except John and Baily, to whom he gave fine educations.  They were intended for the bar, but never practiced.  Both were men of fine mental capacity, especially uncle John, who was one of the most accomplished literary men of the Western States.</P>
055.sgm:<P>My grandfather Hardeman taught certain maxims to his children that have come down to his grandchildren, and have had a great influence over his posterity:</P>
055.sgm:<P>First.  Pay your honest debts.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Second.  Never disgrace the family.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Third.  Help the honest and industrious kin.</P>
055.sgm:<P>My father came to Nashville when it was a small village, and was married to my mother in 1802, in Davidson County, Tennessee.  He had several brothers and sisters, some of whom I remember to have seen.  They nearly all lived and died in Kentucky.  I never saw my grandfather Burnet.  My father was a carpenter and farmer, uncle William was a blacksmith, uncle John a school-teacher, uncle James a farmer, and uncle Henry a cabinet-maker.  All my father's brothers and sisters were married, and all reared families.  All my uncles and aunts on both sides are gone.  Many of them lived to be old people.  I remember well when I belonged to the younger members of the family.  Now I stand among the eldest.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>There was a great difference between my father's and mother's families.  The Hardemans were fond of pleasure, and were generally extravagant when young.  Most of them, especially my male cousins, when setting out in life, wasted their patrimony, not in dissipation of any kind, but in fashionable life; and afterward set earnestly to work, most of them making good livings, and some of them fortunes. The Hardemans were generally men of the world, first fond of fashionable pleasures, dress, and show, and afterward seekers of fortune.  But, though wild when young men, I have yet to hear of the first instance in which they were ever accused of any criminal offense, great or small.  They sometimes had fisticuff fights (though very rarely), but I never knew one of them to fight a duel.  With very rare exceptions, they all paid their debts.  They were generally good business men, and good traders in such property as lands and stock, and were punctual in keeping their promises, and firm in telling the truth.  All of the name were very proud of the family; and, though they might have disputes among themselves, they would not permit others to speak ill even of those they themselves blamed.  They were very generous in aiding their relatives in starting in business, generally by good advice to the young, and often by loans of money.  They were especially kind to the unfortunate.  They were generally quick-tempered and downright in the expression of their opinions.  My grandfather Hardeman and most of his sons seemed to think it a conscientious duty, when they saw any one do what they clearly considered a mean act, to tell him what they thought of him in plain terms.  They were candid and resolute men, and you always knew how you stood with them.  If they disliked you, they would tell you so.  There were many marriages <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On the contrary, my father's family were not seekers of fortune, Uncle James being the only one who ever acquired any considerable amount of property.  They were men of peace, very just, industrious, sober, and piously disposed.  They cared very little for riches, being content with a fair living; but they possessed fine literary abilities.  My father was raised very poor, and never went to school but three months in his life.  He emigrated West while a young man, and spent his time mostly at hard work; and, although he had never studied English grammar, he wrote and spoke the language with substantial accuracy.  He possessed an extraordinary mathematical talent, so that he could solve in a few moments very difficult problems.  I remember an instance, which occurred after I was grown.  I saw a problem published in a newspaper in Tennessee when I was about twenty-two, and it took me some three days to arrive at a correct solution.  Upon a visit to my father in 1830, I proposed the same question to him, and it did not take him more than half an hour, and he did not make half as many figures as I had done.  The rules by which he solved most questions were his own.  He understood the <HI REND="italics">reason</HI>
055.sgm:<P>My uncle, John Burnet, had a fine talent for general science, and several of my cousins on my father's side have been lawyers of ability.  One of my father's cousins, of whom I remember to have heard him often speak, and whose opportunities had been very limited, rose to distinction at the bar and on the bench.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>My father was very industrious, understood his trade as a carpenter well, and made a pretty good farmer; but he had no capacity for trading, and was often cheated.  I never knew but one of the Hardemans who was dissipated, and that was Uncle Perkins; but that which was a cause of surprise was that, during the dissipated part of his life, he made a good living, and when he died left his family in comfortable circumstances.  Of the Burnets, all the old set were examples of sobriety, peace, kindness, and honesty; and among the younger class, including cousins and half cousins, I never knew of but three who were confirmed drunkards; and I never heard of any one of the blood committing any crime, great or small.</P>
055.sgm:<P>My father and mother reared eight children, five sons and three daughters:  Constantia Dudley, Peter Hardeman, Glen Owen, George William, Elizabeth Ann, James White, Mary Henry Jones, and Thomas Smith.  Sister Constantia was twice married, and died in Liberty, Missouri, in 1846.  Sister Mary married Dr. Benjamin S. Long in 1838, and died in Clay County, Missouri, in 1843.  Sister Elizabeth has been twice married, and now lives a widow in Mendocino County, California, and has ten living children.  Glen, Thomas, and myself reside in California, and my brother White in Oregon.  My brother William lived in Oregon from the fall of 1846 until his death, December 25, 1877.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Our family are much divided in religion.  Glen and White are Disciples, or Campbellites, as they are sometimes called; Sister Elizabeth is a Baptist; Thomas is a Southern Methodist; and I am Catholic.  Brothers Glen and Thomas are preachers, Brother White is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>We reared six children--three sons and three daughters:</P>
055.sgm:<P>Dwight J. Burnett, born in Hardeman County, Tennessee, May 23, 1829, and married to Miss Mary Wilcox in Sacramento City, January, 1850.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Martha L. Burnett, born in Liberty, Clay County, Missouri, April 29, 1833, and married to C. T. Ryland in Alviso, Santa Clara County, California, January 23, 1851.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Romeetta J. Burnett, born in Liberty, Missouri, February 14, 1836, and married to W. T. Wallace in Alviso, California, March 30, 1853.</P>
055.sgm:<P>John M. Burnett, born in Liberty, Missouri, February 4, 1838, and married to Miss Ellen Casey in San Francisco, April 27, 1863.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Armstead L. Burnett, born in Liberty, Missouri, October 7, 1839, married to Miss Flora Johnson in San Jose&acute;, California, November 21, 1860, and died in San Jose&acute;, May 26, 1862.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Sallie C. Burnett, born in Platte City, Platte County, Missouri, September 27, 1841, married to Francis Poe in San Jose&acute;, November 21, 1860, and died in Sacramento City, May 24, 1861.</P>
055.sgm:<P>REMOVALS: TO THE FARM--TO MISSOURI.</P>
055.sgm:<P>My father built several of the first log and frame buildings in Nashville, and one frame building for himself.  My earliest recollections are connected with Nashville.  I remember my father's house, and that he punished me one evening for running away from home; a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The location of my father's farm, in the Missouri bottom, being so unhealthy, we removed to Clay County in the spring of 1822, my father having entered a tract of 160 acres at the Land Office, at $1.25 per acre.  Here we had to begin again to clear off the timber and build houses.</P>
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055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The first steamboats I ever saw were at Franklin in 1820.  They were the first steamers on the Missouri River, with one exception.  A short time before, a single steamer, as I am informed, had passed a short distance above Franklin, and was snagged and sunk.  The steamers that I saw were three in number, and were sent by Colonel Richard M. Johnson, contractor for supplies at Council Bluffs, at which point the United States Government then had a military post.  I remember that one of these vessels was propelled by a stern-wheel, and had a large wooden figurehead, representing the head and neck of an immense snake, through the mouth of which the steam escaped.  This boat made quite a grand appearance, and caused much speculation among the people.  Some were of the opinion that all the steam machinery (which they called "works") was in the belly of this snake.  I remember seeing these boats start up the river from the landing.  They crossed over to the Booneville side, and in crossing were barely able to keep from falling below the point they left.  This was in the summer, when the water was high and the current rapid.  Now, however, a steamer on that river will stem the current at any stage of the water with ease.  The boat alluded to was called "the Western Engineer."  There were no regular steamboats on the river until some five years later.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The early settlers in Missouri had a very hard time of it, especially those who could not hunt the wild game successfully, which was at that time abundant.  When we moved from Howard to Clay County (a distance of some two hundred and fifty miles by water), our supplies and household furniture were sent up the river in a flat-boat, which had to be towed up most of the way by men, who walked upon the bank of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>It so happened that, although when we settled in Howard and Clay Counties provisions were scarce and high, when we had succeeded in raising produce for sale, the demand had diminished, the supply had increased, and prices declined to a low figure.  Indian corn was 10 cts. a bushel, wheat 50 cts., pork $1.25 per hundred pounds, and other things in proportion.  As everything the farmers had for sale was very <HI REND="italics">low</HI>
055.sgm:, and all they purchased very <HI REND="italics">high</HI>
055.sgm:, they were able to purchase very little, and that of the plainest description.  A sack or two of coffee and a barrel of brown sugar would last a merchant some time.  Many persons supplied themselves with maple sugar.  This was the case with my father.  I remember that "sugar-making time" was always a season of hard work, but of festivity with the young people, especially when the sugar was "stirred off."  At this time what was called a "sugar-stick" was in great demand.  After the sugar was molded into cakes or grained, it was carefully deposited in the black-walnut "sugar-chest," and put under lock and key.  The ants were very fond of sugar, and would find their way into the chest.  To <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>MODE OF LIVING--MANNERS AND CUSTOMS Our manner of living was very simple.  For some years the only mills in the country were propelled by horses, each customer furnishing his own team, and taking his proper turn to grind his grain.  At times when the mills were thronged (and this was generally so in winter), they had to wait from one to two days.  During this time the mill-boys mostly lived on parched corn.  The manner of sending to mill was to put a bag, some three feet long, and containing from two and a half to three bushels of grain, across the back of a gentle horse, the bag being well balanced by having the same quantity in each end, and then putting a man or boy upon the top to keep it on, and to guide the horse.  It often happened that both bag and boy tumbled off, and then there was trouble, not so much because the boy was a little hurt (for he would soon recover), but because it was difficult to get the bag on again.  When any one could shoulder a bag of corn, he was considered a man; and to stand in a half-bushel measure, and shoulder a bag containing two and a half to three bushels, was considered quite a feat.  I heard of a woman who could do so, but never saw her, and can not say that the statement was true.</P>
055.sgm:<P>For some years very little wheat was grown, Indian corn being the only grain raised; and, when wheat was produced, there were no good flour-mills for some time.  If, during those times, we had a biscuit and a cup of coffee every Sunday morning we were fortunate.  As a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The principal trade at that date was in skins, honey, and beeswax, all wild productions.  When Missouri was first settled, cotton was cultivated for domestic use.  The seeds were picked out by hand, or by a small gin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>What were called "cotton pickings" were then very common.  The young people of the neighborhood assembled about dark, divided themselves into two equal parties, placed the quantity of cotton to be picked in two large piles before a big fire, and then commenced a race to see which party would get through first.  The cotton picked more easily when warmed, and this was the reason for placing it before the fire.  Much cheating was done by hiding away portions of the unpicked cotton.  The object was to accomplish the task as early as possible, and then to enter into the dance, or the various plays then common, such as "Old Jake," "Pleased or displeased?" "Tired of your company?" "Bishop of Winchester has lost his crown," and "We are marching along toward Quebeck."  I remember that, when I was about fourteen years of age, I attended a cotton-picking in Howard County, at the house of a widow.  I had never danced any, and, though naturally diffident, I determined I would break the ice.  There was present an old maid, Miss Milly A., with whom I was well acquainted--a large, corpulent woman, low, thick-set, and weighing about two hundred pounds.  With her I danced some seven sets (most of them Virginia reels), without a rest.  Though so large, she moved over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>At my father's house I never saw a cotton-picking.  It was usual in the fall and winter to pick the cotton at night, in which task all of us participated who were able to work.  The young ladies spun and wove, and often made a beautiful article of stiped and checked cotton cloth, out of which they made themselves dresses.  Hemp and flax, especially the latter, were used in the manufacture of summer clothing for children and men.  My sister Constantia was very fond of reading, was well educated for that day, and was the most talented of the family.  I remember to have heard my mother laughingly complain that my sister would stop the loom any time to read a book.  The weaving of the family was generally done by the white women, and mainly by the unmarried daughters.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It required great industry, rigid economy, and wise foresight to make a plain living in those times.  I have often thought of the severe struggles of my parents and their children to live.  The leather for our winter shoes was tanned at home, and the shoes for the family were made by my father and myself, after I was large enough to assist him.  Peg-work was not then understood, and it required some little art to make and bristle "an end," as they called the waxed thread with which the shoes were sewed.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The climate of Missouri is cold and changeable, requiring stock to be fed some five or six months in the year.  In the early settlement of the State, the people suffered much from sickness caused by exposure, bad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Log-rolling was also one of the laborious amusements of those days.  To clear away the dense forests for cultivation was a work of some years.  The underbrush was grubbed up, the small trees (saplings) were cut down and burned, and the large trees belted around with the axe, by cutting through the sap of the trees, which process was called "deadening."  The trees belted would soon die, and their tops first fall off, and afterward the trunks would fall down, often breaking the rail fences and crushing the growing corn, and in the winter time occasionally killing the cattle running in the stalk-fields.  Sometimes a human being would be killed by a falling limb, or by a stroke of lightning.  My sister Constantia's first husband, James M. Miller, was killed by lightning on the bank of the Missouri river at Booneville about 1821; and my wife only escaped death from a similar cause at Liberty, Missouri, in 1833, by accidentally leaving the fireplace where she was sitting, and retiring to the adjoining room, only just one moment before the lightning struck the stone chimney, throwing down the top, and melting together the blades of a pair of large scissors hanging below the mantel-piece against the chimney.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The early settlers of the West were greatly aided by the wild game, fruits, and honey, which were most abundant.  There were walnuts, hickory-nuts, hazel-nuts, pecans, raspberries, blackberries, wild plums, summer, fall, and winter grapes; of game, the squirrel, rabbit, opossum, coon, deer, and black bear; and of fowls, the quail, wild duck, goose, swan, prairie chicken, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I remember a circumstance which occurred in Clay County when I was about seventeen, and my brother Glen fifteen.  I had left my father's house, and was living with my sister Constantia's second husband, Major William L. Smith, then a merchant of Liberty.  Two or three days before Christmas I went to visit my parents, and to spend the Christmas holidays at home.  The well-trained dogs, Major, Captain, and Cue, had not forgotten me.  My mother requested Glen and myself to kill some wild turkeys for the Christmas dinner, and directed us to shoot them in the head, so as not to tear the body.  Fully confident in our marksmanship, we promised her we would do so.  Taking the faithful and keen-scented dogs and the trusty old rifle, with its black-walnut stock and flint-lock, we started into the hills toward the Missouri bottoms, and soon found a flock of gobblers, one of which alighted in a tall red-oak tree, near the top.  Being older than my brother and a guest, it was my privilege to have the first shot.  I approached as near as I could venture to do (as I saw the turkey <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>With these two turkeys we went home in triumph, and, as I did not then disclose the fact of having taken aim at the body, I was considered the best shot in the neighborhood.  It was a singular circumstance that my mother should have first directed us to shoot the birds in the head, and that I should have accidentally done so twice in succession.  The explanation is that I had simply overshot, owing perhaps to an overcharge of powder.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>BEE-HUNT--FISTICUFF FIGHTS--LAZY BILL. Before I went to live with Major Smith, a circumstance occurred that deeply distressed our family.  In the fall of 1823 I went in company with an uncle on a bee-hunt.  We took a negro man ("Uncle Hal") and my father's good wagon and team, and a number of kegs and one barrel to hold the honey which we expected to find.  We crossed the State line into the Indian country, keeping the open prairie until we had passed several miles beyond the frontier, when we left our wagon in the edge of the prairie, and, with the horses, guns, blankets, and a few kegs, took to the timber.  We traveled through the forest one day, and looked diligently for bees as we rode along on our horses.  I remember that I found two bee-trees that day.  I was very proud of my success, as no others were found, and my uncle was a veteran bee-hunter.  We hunted three or four days before we returned to the wagon.  Bees were generally hunted in the fall or winter, as the hives were then full of honey.  In the fall the hunter would find the hive by seeing the bees coming in and going out; but in the winter he would discover the bee-tree by finding the dead bees on the snow at the foot of the tree.  When a bee dies in a hive the living cast out his dead body, which falls to the ground.  This is done during the few warm clear days in winter.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When we left the wagon in the edge of the prairie, it was early in October.  The tall prairie grass was green, and there was no apparent danger of fire; but the second night out there fell a severe frost, and as we approached the prairie we smelt the smoke, and at once feared our wagon was gone.  The prairie had been set on fire, I suppose, by the Indians, to drive all the game <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In reference to the simple mode of dress then common among the people of Western Missouri, I will state an illustrative circumstance.  I was not present, but had the facts from the gentleman himself.  He was a man of education, of strictly temperate habits, and, although not a professor of religion, remarkable for his general good conduct.  He was a merchant of Liberty, and on one occasion he attended preaching in the country not far from town.  He was one of the very few who dressed in broadcloth, which he wore on this occasion.  The preacher was an old man well known; and during his sermon he referred to this gentleman, not by name, but as the smooth-faced young man in fine apparel, and severely condemned his style of dress, as being contrary to the spirit of the gospel.   The behavior of the gentleman was orderly and respectful.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In those primitive times fisticuff fights were very common, especially at our militia trainings.  After the military exercises (which were not remarkable for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>These contests were governed by certain rules, according to which they were generally conducted.  They arose, not from hatred or animosity as a general rule, but from pride and love of fame.  It was simply a very severe trial of manhood, perseverance, and skill.  I have known men on such occasions to lose part of the ear or nose, and sometimes an eye.  In most cases both parties were severely bruised, bitten, and gouged, and would be weeks in recovering.  It was a brutal, but not fatal mode of combat.  I never knew one to terminate fatally.  The custom of stabbing and shooting came into use after this.  The conqueror took great, and the conquered little, pleasure in relating the incidents of the fight.  The description of one was diffuse, of the other concise.  Most generally the defeated hero had some complaint to make of foul play, or some plausible excuse to give, like an unsuccessful candidate for office.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Among our neighbors in Clay County, there was a tall, long-legged, lazy man, of the name of William Fox, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>It was among these simple backwoods people that I grew up to manhood.  When my father settled in Howard County, that point was upon the frontier; and when he moved to Clay he was still upon the confines of civilization.  Clay was one of the most western counties of one of the most western States; all the country west of that to the shore of the great Pacific Ocean being wild Indian country, in which white men were not permitted to reside, except the traders licensed by the United States, and the officers and soldiers stationed at the military posts.  The means of education did not then exist, except to a very limited extent; and we had too much hard work to admit of attending school, except at intervals during the summer.  At school I learned to spell, read, write, and cipher so far as the rule of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>PRAIRIES--THEIR ORIGIN. Much speculation has been indulged in, as to the origin of those beautiful grassy plains in the West called prairies.  From my own observation, I take this theory to be true: Before the country was inhabited by Indians, those now bare spaces were covered with timber, and this timber, in places, was first prostrated by hurricanes, and, when dry, was set on fire by the Indians.  So intense were the fires caused by such a mass of dry fuel that the young growth of timber was entirely destroyed, and the coarse prairie grass came up in the vacant spaces, it being the only grass that will grow well in the hot sun, and for this reason soon subdued the other wild grasses usually found intermixed with the timber.  The timber being entirely destroyed over a considerable space, the fires of each succeeding fall encroached more and more upon the timbered portions of the country.  I have observed that the surface of the prairies of the West was generally either level or gently undulating, permitting the wind to sweep freely over every part of it.  As we approach the hilly country skirting the Missouri bottoms, we nearly always find dense forests of timber, till we ascend the river west to the dry region, where timber never grows.  The Indians, living solely upon the wild game, found the fallen timber in their way of travel and impeding their success in hunting; and they therefore set the dry wood on fire.  They also found in due time that it was far more difficult to hunt the deer in the prairie than in the timber; and they accordingly fired the prairies in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Some have supposed that the origin of the prairies was due to drought.  This I think can not be correct, for the reason that the soil of the prairies is naturally rich, and more moist than the soil of the timbered land.  The drought would of course more affect the hilly land than that which was level or gently undulating.  Besides, the underbrush, especially the hazel (which loves a rich soil and grows very thickly upon the ground), is found in much greater abundance on level and gently undulating land, and is easily killed by fire in the fall immediately after frost, and before the leaves fall.  I know this was the case when my father's wagon was burned.  The fire on that occasion extended some distance into the timber, killing but not consuming the green underbrush, especially the hazel.  The young hazel that would next year grow from the roots, being intermixed with the old and dry brush, would be killed by the fire the succeeding fall.  This process of burning would entirely destroy the roots in time, thus enlarging the prairie until the increase in size would be stopped by the hilly country or other obstructions.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The reason why there were no prairies in Tennessee and Kentucky was the fact that the predominant timber in those States is the beech and poplar, which are not easily killed by fire.  The beech seldom or never forks, but sends out its numerous small limbs from a few feet above the ground to its top, making so dense a shade that little or no shrubbery can grow in a beech forest.  However much the beech timber may be crowded, the trees will still send out their limbs horizontally, and will not grow tall, like most other timber (especially the pine family) when crowded.  Even when there was an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>RETURN TO TENNESSEE--EMPLOYED AS CLERK IN AN HOTEL. I remained with my brother-in-law, William L. Smith, some fifteen months, and then returned to my father's house.  In the fall of 1826, when I was in my nineteenth year, Uncle Constant Hardeman and wife came to visit us from their home in Rutherford County, Tennessee; and, after due consideration, it was determined that I should accompany them on their return.  My father gave me a horse three years old the preceding spring, a saddle and bridle, a new camlet cloak, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>After spending a few weeks with my uncle Constant and other relatives near him, I visited my Uncle Blackstone Hardeman, who then lived in Maury County, Tennessee, and who was upon the eve of removing to the Western District, a new portion of that State, to which the Indian title had been but lately extinguished, and which was settling up rapidly by emigrants, mainly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>My salary was one hundred dollars per annum, and my duty was to wait on the guests at the table, keep the books, and collect the bills.  The only decent articles of dress that I had were my fur hat and camlet cloak.  My term of service commenced on the day before Christmas, and there was a great frolic among the guests at the hotel.  Among other freaks committed by them, they cut up into narrow strips all the hats they could find; and as mine, with others, was placed on a large work-bench in the main hall, it fared as the rest did.  I was exceedingly green and awkward, as may well be supposed; and my imperfections were the more remarked from the fact that I succeeded a young man, of the name of Outlaw, who understood the duties of the position well.  My kind old employer had never seen me but twice before, and the only money I had was in the hands of my uncle, who lived six or seven miles from town.  It was a busy time, and I had no immediate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>By assiduity and attention I soon learned the duties of my new position; and in about three months I procured a new suit of clothes, the first suit of broadcloth I ever wore.  I remember overhearing the remarks that were made when I first put it on.  "Do you see Burnett?  He is coming out."</P>
055.sgm:<P>My employer had a daughter of his own, and two grown-up step-daughters, who were very pretty girls; but they considered themselves as my superiors, and I never kept their company.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I remained with Mr. Mims five or six months.  In the spring the business of the hotel was dull, and the inside work of the building had to be finished.  The old man was very enterprising, dipping into almost everything that offered, and going into debt pretty freely; but he was very industrious and honest.  As there was so little travel at this season, and as Mr. Mims was extensively engaged in brick-making, he would take the negro boy who was the hostler to the brickyard.  When any guests arrived, I first waited on them, then took their horses to the stable, fed and curried them, and saddled them up in the morning; and, when there was nothing else to do, I took the paint-brush and went to painting the hotel building.  I knew nothing of the business at first, as it was little known in my former <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>SAMUEL HOUSTON--NEWTON CANNON--ANDREW MARTIN--DAVID CROCKETT--ADAM HUNTSMAN. One day, while engaged very busily in painting the ceiling overhead, the Rev. W. Blount Peck, who was about to open a store on Clear Creek, some ten miles from Bolivar, came to see me, and said that he wished to employ me to take charge of the entire businessof selling the goods, keeping the books, and collecting the debts, and he himself would purchase the goods.  He offered me two hundred dollars per annum, he paying for my washing, board, and lodging.  I said that I was engaged to serve Mr. Mims for one year, and could not violate my engagement, but would lay the matter before him, and if he consented I would take charge of the store upon the terms stated.  Accordingly, I conferred with Mr. Mims, and he kindly gave me permission to quit his service, saying that he would not stand in the way of my promotion.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When I set out in life, I was fully conscious of my want of information, and I at first decided in my own mind to say very little, but listen and learn, and in this way avoid exposure.  But I found, from practical experience, that the best way to correct errors was to make them known, and then some friend would kindly correct them for you; and, if no friend should do so, your enemies would.  I found that patient and intelligent perseverance almost always won.</P>
055.sgm:<P>While at the hotel, I saw General Samuel Houston, David Crockett, Adam Huntsman, Newton Cannon, Andrew Martin, and other leading men of Tennessee; and I heard Houston, Crockett, and Cannon speak.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>David Crockett was a man of another cast of mind and manner.  He possessed a fine natural intellect, good memory, and great good nature.  He had treasured up all the good anecdotes he had ever heard, and could readily relate many striking incidents of his own career.  He was deficient in education, and had no practical knowledge of statesmanship; but he was willing and able to learn, and had the patience to bear ridicule and reproach for the time being.  He was an off-hand speaker, full of anecdotes, and kept a crowd greatly amused.  His comparisons and illustrations were new and simple, but strong and pointed.  Few public speakers could get any advantage of David Crockett before a crowd of backwoods people.  His good-natured, honest, jolly face would remind one of Dryden's description <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Of Bacchus--ever fair and ever young."<LB></HI>
055.sgm:<P>I knew in Hardeman County a Baptist preacher of the name of Casey, one of Nature's orators, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>W. B. PECK--JOHN Y. COCKRAM--PETER MINNER. So soon as Parson Peck, as he was familiarly called, had finished his storehouse (which was a log-cabin about eighteen by twenty feet, with chinked cracks, clapboard roof, and puncheon floor), I took my leave of Bolivar.  The stock was not large, and Parson Peck usually made his purchases upon time in New Orleans.  He did a general credit business, the debts becoming due about Christmas, and payable in cotton, which was generally delivered in the seed at the cotton-gin near the store, a receipt taken for so many pounds, and the receipt transferred to us.  Parson Peck was a Methodist, and resided about ten miles from the store, and the labor and responsibility of conducting the business necessarily fell upon me.  He was from East Tennessee, and was a brother of Judge Peck of the Supreme Court of Tennessee, and of Judge Peck of the United States District Court for Missouri.  It was a talented family, and Parson Peck was a man of fine literary ability.  His wife before her marriage was a Miss Rivers, a sister of Dr. Rivers, and daughter of a wealthy planter of Hardeman County.  I remember him and his lady with sentiments of gratitude.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The mercantile business, especially in a new country, where the credit system prevails, and especially where the merchant has but little capital, is certain to prove a failure.  As my employer had very little capital, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>While I was doing business as a clerk for Parson Peck in the winter of 1827-'28, a circumstance occurred that made a lasting impression upon my memory.  It was one of the happy incidents of my life.</P>
055.sgm:<P>There were two farmers, both Methodists, who were in partnership in a cotton-gin situated near the store.  John Y. Cockram, aged about forty-five, was the owner of six or eight slaves, and cultivated a plantation of considerable size; while Peter Minner, aged about thirty-three, was not the owner of any slaves, but had a small farm, and was in very moderate circumstances.  John Y. Cockram was a native of New Madrid County, Missouri, and was a peculiar man, possessed of a fine intellect, pretty well improved.  I never met any one who was blessed with a more engaging manner.  He was a noble man, and possessed the rare power of governing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>After they had been doing business some time, and had received and ginned a large amount of cotton for various persons, Cockram came one day and said to me, in confidence, that he feared there was something wrong in Minner's accounts.  He exhibited to me the partnership books, kept by Minner, and we examined them together to ascertain the true state of the case.  I was myself familiar with many of the transactions, as I was very intimate with both partners, and boarded at Minner's house.  For my life I could not see how Minner could ever explain the errors apparent upon the face of the books, or justify himself.  It seemed to be as clear a case of fraud as facts and figures could make.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Cockram asked me what he ought to do.  I told him to see Minner at once, state to him plainly his fears, and ask for an investigation.  He accordingly called upon Minner, who heard his statement with kindness and patience, and at once consented to refer the matter to two arbitrators, chosen by the consent of both parties.  I was one of the arbitrators, and I remember the manner of Minner during the investigation, for I observed him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The arbitrators had no decision to make.  Minner's explanations were so clear and satisfactory, that the noble Cockram, without waiting to hear any expression of opinion from the arbitrators, sprang to his feet and exclaimed, "Gentlemen, I am satisfied."</P>
055.sgm:<P>This incident was of great benefit to me in afterlife.  It taught me a beautiful lesson.  I had rather look for men's virtues than for their vices, rather err upon the side of charity than against it, and prefer to hear <HI REND="italics">both</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The two men remained friends, and both died of fever three or four years afterward, each leaving a widow and several children.  Cockram became the sole owner of the gin; and, after his crop of cotton had been gathered one fall, the gin was destroyed by fire, and his whole crop with it.  When informed of the disaster, he simply replied, "These hands can raise more."</P>
055.sgm:<P>COURTSHIP AND MARRIAGE. It was during the time that I acted as clerk for Parson Peck that I became acquainted with the lady who afterward became my wife.  There are two very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:important epochs in one's life: when he gets married himself, and when he gives away his first daughter.  To give away the second is not so trying.  When you rear a son, knowing as you do all his traits and habits, you can form some probable conclusion as to his future course in life; but, as a <HI REND="italics">general</HI>
055.sgm:<P>My wife's father, Peter Rogers, formerly lived in Wilson County, Tennessee, where his children were born.  The fall after I commenced business for Parson Peck, Mr. Rogers removed to a farm in the immediate neighborhood.  His brother, Dr. John Rogers, had been living and practicing his profession in that vicinity for one or two years.  I knew the doctor well, and he was often at the store.  The eldest son of Mr. Rogers, Hardin J., was a finely educated young man, and the first time I ever saw him I loved him--why, I could not tell, but I loved him.  He was a noble young man, with a fine face and beautiful black eye, my favorite.  Mr. Rogers had two daughters, Harriet W. and Sarah M., the first sixteen and the other fourteen years of age.  I often heard the young men of the vicinity speak of the two sisters, and especially a young friend of mine, Calvin Stevens, who frequently waited upon Miss Harriet.  He was a very pleasant fellow, and was very fond of the society of the ladies.  I had not the slightest idea of marriage myself, but I determined, from a mere mischievous freak, to cut out Calvin.  I was satisfied that he had no serious intention of marrying any one.  He had a very fine tall figure, handsome face, and engaging manners.  In these respects I considered him my superior, but I thought I could out-talk him; and so I did.  But, when I had succeeded in cutting out Calvin, I found myself caught.  The girl had won my heart.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I was not for some time aware of the fact that I was in love with the girl.  I accompanied her home one Saturday; and after dinner we were engaged in conversation for some two or three hours.  At last it suddenly occurred to me that it was time I should go home.  I hastily bade her good evening, and rushed into the yard, and happened to meet her father passing through it.  I looked around for the sun, and was amazed to find that it was gone.  In a confused manner, I inquired of Mr. Rogers what had become of the sun.  He politely replied, "It has gone down, Mr. Burnett."  I knew then that I was in love.  It was a <HI REND="italics">plain</HI>
055.sgm:<P>When I found myself deeply in love, I considered the matter carefully.  I remember well that, on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I was of the opinion that I could go through the ceremony without trepidation, and I felt none until I passed over the steps across the yard fence, when I suddenly felt so weak that I could scarcely stand.  The guests had most of them arrived, and were in the yard looking at me as I approached the house.  But I made my way hastily through the crowd, and my acquaintances each rushed forward, saying, "How are you?"  I was so confused that I simply held out my right hand for each one to shake; and when my cousin Mary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I owe much of my success in life to her.  Had I not married early, I do not know what might have been my course in life.  I might have fallen into vicious habits.  Though I was not religious myself, I loved a religious girl--there is something in piety so becoming a gentle woman.  My wife was never noisy, fanatical, or widly enthusiastic in her religious feelings; but she was <HI REND="italics">very firm</HI>
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055.sgm:<P>PURCHASE OF THE STORE--DEATH OF A BURGLAR. In the spring of 1829 I purchased the stock of goods of Parson Peck at original cost, on eighteen months' credit, for which I gave him my promissory notes.  Most of these notes he transferred to his creditors.  I was to close up the old business.  I built me a log cabin near the store, and moved into it about the same time.  Everything went on very smoothly during the year 1829; but in 1830 I found I could not replenish my stock of merchandise, which was so much reduced that I was unable to supply the wants of the locality, and could not well dispose of the remnants I had on hand. Our household furniture was remarkably plain, and our expenses were small.</P>
055.sgm:<P>While I was doing business for myself, I purchased three barrels of old Monongahela whisky, which I retailed out by the pint, quart, and gallon.  It was a favorite with those who loved liquor.  It took me about three months to retail it out, and during this period I was in the habit of taking a drink in the morning, and occasionally during the day.  I was not aware that I loved it until it was all gone.  Then I found, to my surprise, that I had acquired a taste for it.  I reflected upon the fact, and went into a sort of mathematical calculation under the "single rule of three."  I said to myself: "If in three months I have acquired so much love of whisky, how much would I acquire in three years?"  The thought alarmed me, and I soon determined that I would abstain entirely, which has been my general practice.  As I do everything with all my might, I became satisfied that, if I indulged at all, I would be very apt to do some very tall drinking.  Had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>While this is no proper place for a long discussion of the question of temperance, I will make a few remarks, suggested by long observation and experience.  If we take a hundred men at the age of twenty-one who entirely abstain, there will not be a drunkard among them.  If, on the contrary, we select a hundred young men who are moderate drinkers at that age, there will in due time be ten sots out of that number.  As no man can tell <HI REND="italics">in advance</HI>
055.sgm: whether he will fall or not, he incurs a risk of ten per cent. in drinking at all.  If two young men of anything like equal ability apply to a sound, cautious business man for employment, and one abstains and the other does not, the temperate one is almost sure to be preferred.  So, if a young man is extravagant and spends all his income, saving up nothing, he will find it hard to obtain employment.  But the young man who does not drink, and who saves up a reasonable portion of his salary, gives <HI REND="italics">clear proof</HI>
055.sgm:<P>My father never used tobacco in any form; and while I remained with him I had no opportunity and no temptation to use it myself.  But in the fall of 1827, while I was in charge of the store for Parson Peck, I one day purchased a hundred home-made cigars, and in the evening invited some young friends to smoke with me.  I knew so little of the use of the article and of its effects, that I never once thought of its making me sick.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>But this rash experiment proved in the end a great benefit to me, and I was amply rewarded for my sufferings.  It prevented me from ever using tobacco in any form.  This was the first and last time I ever smoked.</P>
055.sgm:<P>He is a <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
055.sgm: wise man who profits by the experience of others, without waiting to suffer himself <HI REND="italics">before</HI>
055.sgm:<P>It is our plain duty to give as little pain to our fellow beings as we reasonably can.  The man who uses tobacco wastes a considerable sum in the course of a long life, which justly belongs to his family. It is almost impossible for a smoker to avoid giving great pain to others at times.  He is sure to smoke at improper times and in wrong places.  The danger of using tobacco to excess is so great, that a young man who is known to use it will find it far more difficult to procure employment.  The business man who smokes himself would prefer that his clerk should not.  The use is undoubtedly injurious to some constitutions, if not to all; and no young man, about to learn the use of tobacco, can tell in advance how much he may be injured.  There is, therefore, a <HI REND="italics">useless</HI>
055.sgm:<P>During the time I was retailing liquor above <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:mentioned, in 1830, a melancholy circumstance occurred, which I have long deeply regretted.  My stock of goods being very low, and my wife sick with fever, I removed her to her father's house, about a mile distant.  Parson Peck had built a neat frame storehouse, which fell to me in the purchase.  My brother-in-law, Hardin J. Rogers, often slept at the store, but occasionally no one slept there.  One morning, when I went to the store, I found the window-shutter forcibly broken open by the use of some flat instrument, about the size of a two-inch chisel.  I lay there myself at night watching for the burglar, until I became so sleepy that I could keep awake no longer.  I lay upon the floor behind the counter, with a loaded shot-gun on the counter above me, determined to shoot the burglar if he should come and enter the store.  The window-shutter was generally fastened with an iron bolt on the inside.  It was not fastened this night, but from the shutter a string extended to the handle of a large tin coffee-pot placed by me on the edge of the counter, so that opening the shutter would at once throw off the pot, the fall of which would necessarily make a great noise.  I kept awake until late at night, when I fell asleep.  In the morning I found the pot on the floor, but so sound was my slumber that I had not heard it.  It had evidently frightened the burglar, so that he did not enter.  I then determined I would try another plan.  I securely fastened the shutter and placed the shot-gun cocked upon the counter, with a string extending from one end of the yardstick to the shutter, and so arranged that when the shutter was forced open the gun would go off.  Next morning, when I went to the store, I found a negro man lying on his back dead, with a mill-pick and a jug by his side.  He had broken open the window-shutter with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>RETURN TO MISSOURI--CROCKETT AND HUNTSMAN. My brother, Glen O. Burnett, two years younger than myself, came to Hardeman County, and married the other daughter of Mr. Rogers, January 6, 1830.  In the fall of 1830 Mr. Rogers moved to Clay County, Missouri.  I found it impossible for me to continue the mercantile business in that locality; and I decided to close up my business, pay my debts, and study law.  My brother Glen determined to return to Clay County, Missouri, where my father had given him a tract of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1831 new troubles assailed us.  I was first attacked with fever, and then Hardin J. Rogers was attacked in turn.  I recovered, and he died.  Poor fellow! I loved him as a brother, and he was worthy.</P>
055.sgm:<P>After remaining in Tennessee thirteen months, and collecting all I could, there was still a considerable sum due upon my notes.  It was useless to remain longer; and, after consultation with Austin Miller, and with his consent, I determined to accompany my wife's uncle, George M. Pirtle, who was then moving from Hardeman County to the southwestern portion of Missouri, as far as the Mississippi River, and there take a steamer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>We arrived safely at St. Louis, and I at once went up and down the shore of the river to find a steamer up for Liberty Landing; but I could find only one for the Missouri River, and that was the old "Car of Commerce," only bound to Lexington, about thirty-five miles below my point of destination.  I had only $15.62 1/2 in my pocket, and the price of a cabin passage was $15; and the boat wouldnot leave for several days.  I therefore debated with myself whether I should take a cabin or deck passage, and I determined that I would stand erect as long as possible.  I went to the clerk of the boat and told him I would take a cabin passage, provided he would allow me to come on board at once, without the expense of staying at an hotel.  To this he at once assented.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We were seven days making the trip to Lexington, and arrived there on Sunday morning.  I at once crossed the Missouri River, and went on foot eight miles to Richmond, where I had acquaintances, from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>There are some singular coincidences in the facts of our acquaintance and marriage.  My wife and myself were born in adjoining counties in Tennessee, but our parents never knew or heard of each other.  My father moved first to Williamson County, Tennessee, then to Howard, and lastly to Clay County, Missouri.  When I was nearly grown, circumstances wholly unforeseen led me to return to Tennessee, and then to go to Bolivar, and from thence to Clear Creek; and it just so happened that Mr. Rogers, who had long lived on the same farm in Wilson County, moved to the Western District, and located in my immediate neighborhood.</P>
055.sgm:<P>While I was in Hardeman County, David Crockett and Adam Huntsman were rival candidates for Congress.  Huntsman was elected by a small majority, the race being very close.  He was a man of great ability, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>This objection is often urged against lawyers when candidates for seats in legislative bodies.  A very inferior lawyer was a candidate for the Legislature in some county in Kentucky; and a distinguished old lawyer happened to overhear some citizens say they would not vote for him because he was a lawyer.  The old lawyer at once stepped up to them, saying, "if that was their <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
055.sgm:<P>In the Presidential canvass of 1828, General Jackson was accused by some of his political opponents of being illiterate.  It was alleged that he spelled the words "all correct" thus, "oll korrect."  Hence originated the abbreviation "O.K."</P>
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055.sgm:<P>About the year 1824, a gentleman from Kentucky, aged twenty-five, settled in Clay County, Missouri.  While his education was exceedingly limited, he possessed a superior native intellect.  He was a splendid judge of human nature, and, although illiterate, expressed his views of men and measures in language clear, concise, and strong.  He soon proved to be a very superior business man, and ultimately acquired a very fine estate, which he subsequently lost during our late civil war.  When he first arrived in Clay County, he spelled Congress thus, "Kongriss"; but, like the Baptist preacher Casey (whose name is mentioned in another page), his natural ability was such that the people of his district elected him to a seat in the State Senate.  While attending his first session of that body, he was asked how low the mercury fell in his locality.  He promptly replied, "It run into the ground about a feet."  Hence arose the saying, "running it into the ground."</P>
055.sgm:<P>During my stay in Hardeman County, a young man, who was a droll and eccentric genius, was a burlesque candidate for a seat in the Legislature of Tennessee.  His speeches were very amusing.  In addressing the people, he declared that he could not truly say, as did his honorable competitors, that he was solicited and urged by his friends to become a candidate; that he was not like some animals, whose ears you had to pull off to get them out, and their tails to get them back; but that he became a candidate voluntarily, and was running on his own hook, and without the solicitation of his friends, for he was not aware that he had any.  He, or some other person, about that time, gave a very forcible description of a vacillating politician, and applied to him this verse:</P>
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055.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"He wabbled in, and wabbled out,<LB>Until he left the mind in doubt<LB>Whether the snake that made the track<LB>Was going South, or coming back."<LB></HI>
055.sgm:<P>I had never heard of this verse before, and have not seen or heard it quoted since, and can not say whether it was original with the speaker or not.  It made such an impression upon my memory that I never forgot it.</P>
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055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.<LB>ACT AS CLERK FOR A TIME--THEN GO INTO THE MERCANTILE BUSINESS WITH OTHERS.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>WHEN I arrived at the house of Mr. Rogers, in Clay County, in the month of April, 1832, I had only sixty-two and a half cents left, was some seven hundred dollars in debt, had a wife and one child to support, and was out of employment.  I had studied law altogether about six months only, and was not then prepared to make a living at the practice; and I therefore determined to obtain a position in some store as a clerk.  I visited Lexington, Missouri, where John Aull then did a large mercantile business, and who was an intimate friend of my father; but he had no vacancy to fill, having all the help he required.  I returned to my father-in-law's house at a loss what to do.  In a few days thereafter Edward M. Samuel, then in partnership with Samuel Moor in the mercantile business in Liberty, returned from Philadelphia with a new assortment of goods, and sent me word that he wished to see me.  I had sent forward by water from Tennessee my little household furniture, and my best clothes.  I therefore dressed myself as well as I could, and promptly went to see Messrs.  Samuel and Moor.  Mr. Samuel was the active partner, and Mr. Moor the capitalist of the firm.  Mr. Samuel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I at once removed with my family to Liberty, rented a log-house for twenty-five dollars a year, and set to work manfully.  Expenses were then light in Liberty.  Pork was one dollar and fifty cents per hundred pounds, wood one dollar a cord, flour very cheap, corn meal twenty-five cents a bushel, potatoes twenty cents per bushel, chickens seventy-five cents per dozen, and eggs fifteen cents a dozen.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I remained in the employment of Samuel &amp; Moor fifteen months, and they urged me to remain longer, offering to increase my salary; but, having pretty well paid up my debts, I determined to go into the law.  I obtained a license to practice from Judge Tompkins, of the Supreme Court of Missouri, purchased a house and lot in Richmond, Missouri, for the small sum of eighty dollars, repaired the same, and was on the eve of going there to reside and practice my profession, when I received a proposition from James M. and G. L. Hughes to enter into partnership in the mercantile business with them, upon very advantageous terms.  They were to furnish a cash capital of eight thousand dollars, while I was not required to contribute any, and each partner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>At that time, the mercantile business was prosperous, while the practice of the law was at a low stage, there being very little litigation in the country.  I was still anxious to make a fortune, and this was the best opportunity that offered.  We entered into partnership at the beginning of 1834, and received our first supplies in the spring of that year.  We did a safe, good business that season, and I went East in the beginning of 1835 to make the annual purchases.  In 1836 we took into the firm, as a partner, Colonel John Thornton, one of the wealthiest men of Clay County, who contributed five thousand dollars cash capital; thus making our total cash capital thirteen thousand dollars, which was large for that time and country.  We continued this firm until the middle of 1837, when Thornton and myself purchased the interest of James M. and G. L. Hughes; and I went East in the beginning of 1838 to procure a new stock of goods.  By the agreement between them and us, we were to occupy the storehouse, which belonged to James M. Hughes, until the first of May, 1838.  It was understood between Colonel Thornton and myself that he should erect a storehouse upon a lot he owned in Liberty, and have it ready by the time the lease should expire.  I made a very successful trip to Philadelphia, and returned with our new goods about the first of April, but found the storehouse unfinished.  The Colonel had employed a man to lay the stone foundation, who did the work so badly that it became necessary to tear it down and rebuild.  Our sales were fine during the month of April; but when the first of May arrived, no house on the Public Square could be obtained in which we could open our goods; and we were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Toward the close of 1834 my brother Glen visited me on one occasion, and told me it was almost impossible for him to make a living on his little farm; and that, as his family bade fair to be large, he did not know what to do.  A plan at once occurred to me.  Said I, "Will you do as I advise?"  He replied "Yes."  "Then go home, sell all you have, raise all the money you can, and I will put in as much as you do; and I will bring you out a small stock of goods in the spring, and you have the house ready to receive them when they shall arrive."  He at once acted on my suggestion and established the store at Barry, a small place ten miles west from Liberty.  Here he did well for a year or two; but, by the advice of others, we engaged in building and running a steam saw-mill and distillery, which entailed upon us a heavy loss.  It somehow or other always happened so with me, that whenever I had anything to do with liquor, either in making or selling it, some misfortune would befall me.  I have a dread of steam saw-mills, steam distilleries, and the mercantile business generally.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In 1837 William L. Smith, one of my brothers-in-law, came into partnership with Glen and myself; and the new firm borrowed of John Aull the sum of ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>My partners, Colonel Thornton and Major Smith, were men of capital, and no creditor of either firm lost anything.  But I was only the business man, with little or no capital; and I lost five years' time and expenses, and a great deal more besides.  I was unable to make up my portion of the partnership losses in the firms of Thornton &amp; Burnett, and Smith &amp; Burnett, or to pay the amount I had used for my support.  I lost in both firms.</P>
055.sgm:<P>RETURN TO THE LAW--EMPLOYED BY THE MORMON ELDERS--PROCEEDINGS ON HABEAS CORPUS. From the latter part of 1833 to the middle of 1838 I had not opened a law-book, and had forgotten much of that which I had learned.  In the spring and summer of 1838 I had an attack of sickness, which prevented me from doing any business for several months.  After my recovery, foreseeing what might be the result of my mercantile operations, I read the Statutes of Missouri, and studied well the decisions of the Supreme Court of that State, in the fall and winter of 1838-'39.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the beginning of 1839 I determined once more to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The lawyers with whom I came mainly in competition had been at the bar from eight to fifteen years; and among them were D. R. Atchison, William T. Wood, Amos Rees, A. W. Doniphan, John Gordon, Andrew S. Hughes, and William B. Almond.  Austin A. King was then our Circuit Judge.  Atchison was a member of the Legislature, and Doniphan had been sick, and was for some months unable to attend to business.  These combined circumstances threw into my hands a considerable practice the first year.  I remember that among the first suits I brought were several for debt against some of the Mormons in Caldwell County, some thirty miles from Liberty.  I had to begin them at once, as the circumstances would not admit of delay.  I had no books to refer to, and had to draw up the declarations from memory.  I therefore stated the facts substantially, but in a form most untechnical.  These declarations caused considerable amusement; but I amended them, and obtained my judgments.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the beginning of 1839, Amos Rees, A. W. Doniphan, and myself were employed as counsel by Joseph Smith, Jr., Sidney Rigdon, Lyman Wight, and other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>We had the prisoners out upon a writ of habeas corpus, before the Hon. Joel Turnham, the County Judge of Clay County.  In conducting the proceedings before him there was imminent peril.  The people were not only incensed against the Mormons, but they thought it was presumption in a County Judge to release a prisoner committed by a Circuit Judge.  The law, however, considered all committing magistrates--judges of courts as well as justices of the peace--as equals when acting simply in that inferior capacity.  We apprehended that we should be mobbed, the prisoners forcibly seized, and most probably hung.  Doniphan and myself argued the case before the County Judge--Mr. Rees, who resided in Richmond, not being present.  All of us were intensely opposed to mobs, as destructive of all legitimate government, and as the worst form of <HI REND="italics">irresponsible</HI>
055.sgm: tyranny.  We therefore determined inflexibly to do our duty to our clients at all hazards, and to sell our lives as dearly as possible if necessary.  We rose above all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Judge Turnham was not a lawyer, but had been in public life a good deal, and was a man of most excellent sense, very just, fearless, firm, and unflinching in the discharge of his duties.  We knew well his moral nerve, and that he would do whatever he determined to do in defiance of all opposition.  While he was calm, cool, and courteous, his noble countenance exhibited the highest traits of a fearless and just judge.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I made the opening speech, and was replied to by the District Attorney; and Doniphan made the closing argument.  Before he rose to speak, or just as he rose, I whispered to him: "Doniphan! let yourself out, my good fellow; and I will kill the first man that attacks you."  And he did let himself out, in one of the most eloquent and withering speeches I ever heard.  The maddened crowd foamed and gnashed their teeth, but only to make him more and more intrepid.  He faced the terrible storm with the most noble courage.  All the time I sat within six feet of him, with my hand upon my pistol, calmly determined to do as I had promised him.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Judge decided to release Sidney Rigdon, against whom there was no sufficient proof in the record of the evidence taken before Judge King.  The other prisoners were remanded to await the action of the grand jury of Davis County.  Rigdon was released from the jail at night to avoid the mob.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>ORATION BY SIDNEY RIGDON.--SERMON BY JOSEPH SMITH, JR.--BATTLE BETWEEN THE DANITES AND CAPTAIN BOGARD. If I remember correctly, it was in the spring of 1838 that Smith and Rigdon came from Kirtland, Ohio, to Far West, the county seat of Caldwell County, Missouri.  Rigdon delivered an oration on the Fourth of July, 1838, at Far West, in which he assumed some extraordinary positions in reference to the relation the Mormons sustained to the State Government.  This discourse gave great offense to the people of the adjoining counties, particularly to those of Ray and Davis.  Serious difficulties were evidently brewing.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I well remember the first time I ever saw Joseph Smith, Jr.  I arrived at Far West one Saturday evening in June or July, 1838, and found there John McDaniel, a young merchant of Liberty.  John was wild, imprudent, and fond of frolics.  On Saturday he had openly ridiculed Smith's pretensions to the gift of prophecy, and his remarks had been reported to the prophet.  On Sunday John and myself went to hear Smith preach.  The church was a large frame building, with seats well arranged and a good pulpit.  We were treated with great politeness, and kindly shown to seats that commanded a full view of the whole proceedings.  The congregation was large, very orderly, and attentive.  There were officers to show people to their seats, who were most polite and efficient in the discharge of their duties.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Two sermons were delivered by other preachers, which were simply plain, practical discourses, and created no emotion.  But, when Joseph Smith, Jr., rose to speak, he was full of the most intense excitement.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The Mormons extended their settlements into the adjoining county of Davis, at a place called Adam on Diamon, the name being significant of some religious idea which I have forgotten.  The people of Davis (who were rather rude and ungovernable, being mostly backwoodsmen) were very much opposed to this, although the Mormons had paid for the lands they occupied.  The Mormons insisted on their legal rights as citizens of the State, while the people of Davis determined that they should not vote in that county at the August election of 1838.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When the election came on, the men of Davis County made an effort to prevent the Mormons from voting at that precinct.  A fight ensued, in which the Mormons had the best of it.  Other difficulties followed, until Lyman Wight, at the head of the Mormon forces, invaded Davis County, most of which he overran, driving all before him.  General D. R. Atchison, then commanding the militia in that part of the State, ordered Captain Bogard, of Ray County, to call out his militia company and occupy a position on or near the county line between Ray and Caldwell, and preserve the peace <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Information of this proceeding was conveyed to Far West that same evening; and Smith at once ordered Captain Patton, with his Danite band, to march that night and attack Bogard.  Captain Bogard had retired into the edge of Ray County, and encamped in a narrow bottom on the banks of a creek, among the large scattering oak timber, and behind a slough-bank some four feet high.  He apprehended an attack, and had well selected his ground.  The wagon-road crossed the stream just below his encampment, and the road ran down the top and point of a long ridge, covered thickly with young hickories, about ten feet high and from one to two inches in diameter at the ground.  No one could be seen approaching the encampment until arriving within a short distance of it; but Captain Bogard had placed out a picket-guard on the road some half mile above, at a point where open woods commenced.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I remember well one of the two guards.  His name was John Lockhart, a tall East Tennesseean.  Just before day the Mormons were seen approaching, and were hailed by the guards; but, receiving no satisfactory answer, the guards fired then fled to the camp.  One of the Mormons was killed here, but they fired no shot in return, made no halt, but continued their march in silence and good order, and drew up in line of battle immediately in front of Bogard's position, and about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>MILITIA ORDERED OUT--SURRENDER OF THE MORMONS. John Estes, one of Bogard's men, who was in the fight, escaped and came to Liberty the same day, and gave information to General Atchison.  The latter at once ordered the Liberty Blues to march to the battleground, and there await further orders.  I was a member of this independent militia company.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We made ready, and were off before night, and marched some ten miles that evening, under General Doniphan.  The next day we reached the scene of conflict, and encamped in the edge of the open oak-woods next to the prairie that extended from that point to Far West (the town being in the open prairie), and on the road that Patton had traveled to attack Bogard, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Among those who had fallen in with us was a lad of about eighteen, quite tall, green, and awkward.  He was dressed in thin clothing, and when put on guard was told by the officer not to let any one take his gun.  He said no one would get <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The next day was warm and beautiful, and was what is called "Indian summer."  I went upon the battlefield and examined it carefully.  The dead and wounded had all been removed; but the clots of blood upon the leaves where the men had fallen were fresh and plainly to be seen.  It looked like the scene of death.  Here lay a wool hat, there a tin cup, here an old blanket; in the top of this little tree hung a wallet of provisions; and saddles and bridles, and various articles of clothing, lay around in confusion.  The marks of the bullets were seen all around.  I remember that a small linden-tree, three or four inches in diameter, that stood behind Patton's men, seemed to have been a target, from the number of shots that had struck it.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The second night was clear moonlight, warm and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>After waiting a few moments, which seemed to us very long, and no enemy attacking us, Doniphan came around calling for twenty volunteers to go out to reconnoiter and bring on the action.  I said to myself, "I am not in that scrape."  There was not a word <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>During all this hubbub, the boy who had persisted in standing guard the preceding night slept on until some one happened to think of him and ask where he was.  He was then awakened and fell into ranks without hesitation or trepidation.  All admired his courage, and agreed that an army composed of such material would be hard to defeat.</P>
055.sgm:<P>After remaining a day or two in camp, so as to give time for others to join us, we marched to within half a mile of Far West, around which the Mormons had made a sort of barricade of timbers, not sufficient to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>PRISONERS BROUGHT BEFORE JUDGE KING--JOSEPH SMITH, JR.--LYMANWIGHT--SIDNEY RIGDON. The prisoners were turned over to the civil authorities, and sent to Richmond, where they were brought before Judge King, who acted as a committing magistrate.  The proceedings occupied some days, as a great number of witnesses were examined, and their testimony was taken down in writing, as the statute required.  I witnessed a portion of the proceedings, and remember well that Dr. Alvord (if I mistake not the name) was examined on the part of the prosecution.  He was a very eccentric genius, fluent, imaginative, sarcastic, and very quick in replying to questions put by the prisoners' counsel.  His testimony was very important, if true; and, as he had lately been himself a Mormon, and was regarded by them as a traitor from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>After the doctor had been upon the witness stand some hours, General Andrew S. Hughes (a great wit) came into the case, as counsel for the prisoners; but the fact was unknown to Alvord.  Hughes was seated among the prisoners, and wore a blanket overcoat, and the doctor was wholly unacquainted with him.  Other counsel for the prisoners had cross-examined the witness, and he had refused to answer a question put by them.  General Hughes said to him, "I will let you know that it is not for you, but for the Court, to determine whether you shall answer the question."  The witness turned quickly, looked the General full in the face, and, with a most quizzical expression of mock surprise upon his countenance, said, "Sir, I do not know what relation you sustain to this case.  Are you one of the prisoners?"  This question produced quite a sensation among the attending crowd, who were greatly amused at the situation of the counsel.</P>
055.sgm:<P>General Hughes was quizzed for the time; but he was not the man to remain long in that unpleasant condition.  In a short time he made a motion in the case, and in support of that motion made a speech; and when he had finished his argument he took his seat. The District Attorney rose to reply; and, just as he commenced, General Hughes rose quickly from his seat, saying, in the most droll, sarcastic manner, "If it please your Honor, I will save my friend the District Attorney the trouble of making a speech.  I have gained my point, and I withdraw my motion.  I only made a speech to influence <HI REND="italics">public opinion</HI>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>When the March (1839) term of the District Court of Davis County came on, the sheriff of Clay removed the prisoners, under a strong guard, from the jail in Liberty to Davis County, to be present at the impaneling of the grand jury.  It was apprehended that the prisoners would be mobbed by the irritated people of Davis, and the sheriff of Clay was determined to protect his prisoners if he could.  Mr. Rees and myself went to Davis County as their counsel.  The courthouse at the county seat having been burned the fall before by Lyman Wight's expedition, the court was held in a rough log school-house, about twenty-five feet square.  This house was situated on the side of a lane about a quarter of a mile long. It being immediately after the annual spring thaw, this lane was knee-deep in mud, especially in the vicinity of the court-house.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The people of the county collected in crowds, and were so incensed that we anticipated violence toward the prisoners. In the daytime the Court sat in this house, the prisoners being seated upon a bench in one corner of the room; and they were kept under guard there during the night.  In the end of the room farthest from the fireplace there was a bed in which the counsel for the prisoners slept.  The floor was almost covered with mud.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The prisoners arrived on Saturday evening, and the Court opened on the following Monday.  They were fully aware of their extreme danger.  As I slept in the room, I had an opportunity to see much of what passed.  The prisoners did not sleep any for several nights. Their situation was too perilous to admit of repose.  Smith and Wight talked almost incessantly.  Smith would send some one for a bottle of whisky; and, while he kept sober himself, Lyman Wight would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The subject of incessant conversation between Wight and these men was the late difficulties, which they discussed with great good nature and frankness.  Wight would laughingly say, "At such a place" (mentioning it) "you rather whipped us, but at such a place we licked you."  Smith was not in any of the combats, so far as I remember. The guard placed over the prisoners in Davis, after the sheriff of Clay delivered them into the hands of the sheriff of that county, did not abuse them, but protected them from the crowd.  By consent of the prisoners, many of the citizens of Davis came into the room, and conversed with them hour after hour during most of the night. Among others, I remember two preachers, who had theological arguments with Smith, and he invariably silenced them sooner or later.  They were men of but ordinary capacity, and, being unacquainted with the grounds Smith would take, were not prepared to answer his positions; while Smith himself foresaw the objections they would raise against his theory, and was prepared accordingly.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Joseph Smith, Jr., was at least six feet high, well-formed, and weighed about one hundred and eighty pounds.  His appearance was not prepossessing, and his conversational powers were but ordinary. You could see at a glance that his education was very limited. He was an awkward but vehement speaker.  In conversation he was slow, and used too many words to express his ideas, and would not generally go directly to a point.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I remember to have heard of a circumstance which was said to have occurred while the prisoners were under guard in Davis, but I can not vouch for its truth from my own knowledge.  Joseph Smith, Jr., was a very stout, athletic man, and was a skillful wrestler. This was known to the men of Davis County, and some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The grand jury having found true bills of indictment against the prisoners, we applied to the Court for a change of venue to some county where the prisoners could have a fair trial.  Upon a hearing of the application, the Court changed the venue to Boone County, and committed the prisoners to the sheriff of Davis, with instructions to convey them to the proper county; but the prisoners escaped on the way and safely arrived in the State of Illinois. Thus ended the Mormon troubles in Missouri.</P>
055.sgm:<P>APPOINTED DISTRICT ATTORNEY--QUALIFICATIONS OF A GOOD LAWYER--LABORIOUS PRACTICE. I continued the practice of my profession; but I had to close up the old mercantile concerns in which I had been a partner, and this labor absorbed a large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Some time in the winter of 1839-'40, my friend William T. Wood, then District Attorney for our district, very generously came to me, and voluntarily informed me that he intended to resign, and would recommend me to the Governor of the State for the position. I was appointed; but the district having been subsequently divided, and a new judicial district created, composed of the counties of Clinton, Andrew, Buchanan, Holt, and Platte, and D. R. Atchison appointed Judge, I was appointed District Attorney for the new district.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When I commenced the practice, having but lately read the statutes and the reported decisions of the Supreme Court, I was more familiar with them than most of the other members of the bar, and was thus able in many cases to defeat lawyers much older than myself.  I was not afraid of labor, and made it a rule that, when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:two different modes of reaching an end suggested themselves to my mind, one <HI REND="italics">certain</HI>
055.sgm:, but accompanied with great labor, and the other <HI REND="italics">uncertain</HI>
055.sgm:<P>There are two qualities very necessary to a good lawyer, one who is truly an ornament to his noble profession, namely, <HI REND="italics">judgment and impartiality</HI>
055.sgm:.  Unless he possesses <HI REND="italics">both</HI>
055.sgm:<P>In 1839 I was employed with Doniphan to defend a man of property in Ray County, indicted and tried for a very serious offense.  We at the time believed him to be innocent, and defended him successfully.  I can not, in my own mind, yet say whether he was guilty or not; but I have long regretted having had anything to do with that melancholy case.  A young woman was examined as a witness for the prosecution, who was of good family and character, and whose testimony was positive; and we were forced to impeach her veracity in order to acquit our client.  Her conduct was open to apparent objection, but might have been wholly the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I was a vigilant but candid prosecutor.  If I became satisfied that the prisoner was innocent, I told the jury so; but, if I thought him guilty, I prosecuted him with all the energy and ability I possessed, and was generally successful.  I was District Attorney a little upward of three years, was twice appointed by the Governor of the State, and was once elected by the people of the district, of which Atchison was judge.  In this new district there was more criminal business than in any other district of the State, except that of St. Louis.  The great Platte Country, the most fertile portion of the State, was annexed to Missouri in the beginning of 1837, and settled up rapidly with every class of people.  Besides this fact, the land was open to pree&die;mption claims, though the country was not at first surveyed; and this uncertainty as to titles and boundaries led to much harassing and bitter litigation, which produced an unusual amount of crime.  In all my labors since I was grown, though I have seen some hard service at different times, I do not remember to have been so often utterly worn out as I was while District Attorney in Judge Atchison's district.  In Platte County, the largest in the district, and the second county in the State in point of population, we generally had from seventy-five to one hundred criminal cases on the docket at each term of the Court.  These cases were of every character, from the most trifling to very grave offenses.  While they were mainly indictments for gambling at cards, there were commonly from fifteen to twenty cases of a serious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>It was the duty of the District Attorney not only to prosecute the cases before the Court and trial-jury, but to attend the grand jury, give them advice, and draw up all the indictments.  During the first week of the term, and while the grand jury were in session, I usually wrote from dark until midnight, commenced again next morning at sunrise, wrote until breakfast, and, after taking a light, hasty meal, wrote until about 9 A. M., when Court met.  The criminal had precedence over civil cases on the docket, and were disposed of before the civil cases were reached.  In Court, I prosecuted from 9 A. M. until 2 P. M., when the Court adjourned half an hour for dinner, and then met again, and remained in session until sundown. While in Court I was nearly always upon my feet, case after case following in succession.  I have often gone into the trial of a case of grand larceny, without knowing anything of the facts except that the prisoner was charged in the indictment with stealing a horse or other personal property of the person whose name was stated in the indictment as the owner.  I knew the names of the witnesses on the part of the State, because the names were endorsed upon the back of the indictment.  In these cases I had the witnesses called, and, if present, I was ready for trial.  I examined them, in general terms, only far enough to make out a <HI REND="italics">prima facie</HI>
055.sgm: case against the accused; and then I turned the witnesses over to the prisoner's counsel, knowing they would bring out all the facts before the Court and jury.  After the examination of the first witness, I was able to see the thread of the testimony, and knew how to proceed.  I had the criminal law at my tongue's end, and was seldom at a loss for authority <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>DIFFICULTY OF ADMINISTERING CRIMINAL JUSTICE--A NOTED CRIMINAL--ANABLE AND UPRIGHT JUDGE. The duties of District Attorney in that district were not only laborious, but difficult and extremely responsible upon other accounts.  There were five counties in the district, and the Platte country was in the shape of the letter V, bounded on the east by the old State line, on the southwest by the Missouri River, and on the northwest by the then wild prairie lands of Iowa.  The remote county of Holt was in the western and narrowest portion; and, being not only remote, but thinly inhabited, it was under the control for a time of thieves and counterfeiters, who, by being upon the trial-juries, defeated the ends of justice.  I remember that at one term of the Court there were some thirty indictments and only one or two convictions.  I would prove up the case as clearly as possible, and yet the jury, after being out but a few moments, would return into Court with their verdict, "We, the jury, find the defendant not guilty."  In some rare cases, when the punishment was very trifling, they would find the defendant guilty for the sake of appearances.</P>
055.sgm:<P>There was at that time an organized band of criminals, at the head of whom was the notorious Daniel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>A man was indicted and tried for selling whisky to an Indian. A most intelligent and trustworthy witness testified before the trial-jury, that upon a stated day and year, in Jackson County, in the State of Missouri, he saw an Indian come into the defendant's grocery, and put down upon the counter a quarter of a dollar, in silver coin of the United States, at the same time handing the defendant an empty bottle; that he saw the defendant take a gallon measure and draw from a barrel, and out of the contents of the gallon measure fill up the bottle for the Indian, put the quarter into his (defendant's) drawer, and that he then asked the witness to drink out of what remained in the measure from which the bottle had been filled; that witness drank from the measure, and that what he drank was whisky.  Colonel William T. Wood, who defended the party, thought the evidence so clear against his client that he was about to give up the case, when one of the jurors asked the witness, "But did you drink out of the bottle itself?"  The witness answered, "No; I only drank of the liquid left in the measure after filling the bottle."  Upon this state of evidence the jury found the defendant not guilty.  Mr. Rees at once sternly told the sheriff that, if he summoned any more such juries, he would move the Court to punish him for contempt.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This state of things continued only for a time.  Some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I remember that in the spring of 1843 I was at the county seat of Holt County, where I delivered a public address to the people in reference to Oregon; and I found Whiteman there.  He at once took me aside and asked me if I had heard that "they had given him h--l."  I told him I had.  He then said that he had understood that Judge Atchison and myself had encouraged the people to act as they did.  I told him that it was not true as to myself; that I could not, would not, and never did encourage illegal violence; but I would state to him what I said, and which was true.  When people asked me why persons indicted and tried in that county could not be convicted, I had told them that it was not my fault, but the fault of the trial-juries, who were under the influence of the criminals of the county.</P>
055.sgm:<P>While I was addressing the people, I observed that Whiteman stood near me all the time, but did not once suspect that he meditated an attack upon me.  After I had finished my address, a gentleman whom I knew took me apart from the crowd, and told me that he had overheard Whiteman making threats of personal violence against me, just before I commenced speaking; and that he (my friend) had placed himself by Whiteman's side, ready and determined to shoot him at the first offensive movement he should make.  Whiteman asked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Judge Atchison was an upright, incorruptible judge, and was a man of fine literary and legal education, and of superior native intellect.  He possessed a kind heart, and a noble, generous, manly spirit; but, when first appointed, he seemed to me to err too often in his rulings in favor of the accused.  I was always courteous and respectful to any Court before which I consented to appear, and never in the course of my practice had an angry altercation with the Court, or was punished for contempt.  I determined, in the proper manner, to correct the supposed errors of the Judge.  The Judge decided several cases against me; but, being satisfied that I was right, I took them up to the Supreme Court, and a majority of them came back reversed.</P>
055.sgm:<P>CASE OF WHITTLE--JUDGE AUSTIN A. KING. As illustrative of the then mixed state of society, I will refer to the following case.</P>
055.sgm:<P>A celebrated counterfeiter of the name of Whittle went from the county in which he resided to an adjoining county, and passed upon a plain farmer some counterfeit gold coin, in payment for a horse.  Having been indicted in the proper county, he applied for a change of venue; and the case, upon a proper showing, was sent to Buchanan County.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When the case was called, the prisoner was ready for trial, and I asked the Court to order the sheriff to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>When the Court met again, there was a large crowd present, as it must have been anticipated that some decisive step in the case would be taken.  When the case was again called, I said:  "With the leave of the Court, I will enter a <HI REND="italics">nolle prosequi</HI>
055.sgm:<P>He was a man of herculean frame, and of desperate character.  His death happened in this wise: He forced a quarrel upon a peaceable, awkward, and innocent young man, about the age of twenty-one, for the purpose, most likely, of showing off his bravery and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I have known of several instances, where persons shot through the heart have lived for some little time.  When the shot passes through the left ventricle of the heart, the wound is instantaneously fatal, so that the muscles retain the exact position they had at the very moment the wound was given.  For example, if the deceased had a pistol tightly grasped in his hand, he would still after death retain his grasp upon it, as also the very same cast of features.  This was the case with General Richardson, killed by Cora in San Francisco in the year 1856.  So, whenever a shot seriously wounds the spinal marrow, the person is instantaneously paralyzed.  I have never known but one instance where a person was fatally shot through the brain, that he did not drop instantly, however excited he may have been.  This exceptional case was that of Joel Turnham, Jr., who was killed in Oregon about the year 1844, while resisting a special <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>After becoming familiar with the duties of his position, D. R. Atchison made an admirable judge, and gave general satisfaction.  In point of legal acquirements, I do not think he was then quite the equal of Judge Austin A. King, who was an older man; but Judge Atchison was more popular with the members of the bar generally.  It was the fault of Judge King, at one time, not to be sufficiently indulgent to young lawyers.  I remember his treatment of myself when a new beginner.  Being satisfied that he did not extend to me the indulgence that my situation justified, I determined to bide my time and correct this supposed error.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I was, upon one occasion, employed to defend a suit brought by one of the older members of the bar upon a promissory note, which he described in his declaration as bearing date a certain day and year set forth.  I put in the plea of <HI REND="italics">non assumpsit</HI>
055.sgm:; and, when the note was offered in evidence, I simply objected.  It bore a different date from the note described, and was not therefore the same note.  I knew that the objection was a good one, but the plaintiff's counsel declared that my objection was invalid, and then handed the papers to the Judge, who compared the note with the declaration, and at once gave judgment for the plaintiff; and I quietly took my appeal.  In five or six months, the case came back reversed; and the Supreme Court expressed surprise that so plain an error should have been committed by the Court below.  It so happened that I was afterwards employed in another case of much the same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Young lawyers can not, of course, speak as well as those that are older, and judges are very apt to become impatient when listening to irrelevant remarks.  But it always seemed to me that it was not only more generous but more expedient, in most cases, to indulge young lawyers in their errors of inexperience.  I have no doubt of the fact that many a noble young man, of fine intellect and heart, has been either driven from the profession, or kept in a grade beneath his real abilities, by the harsh and inconsiderate reproofs of crabbed judges.  Tyranny has many modes of exhibiting itself; and a man may be the victim of oppression in many other ways than knocking him down, putting him in prison, or confiscating his property.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Young lawyers are generally sensitive and timid, and their feelings should be spared.  One of the noblest objects in the world is a pure and intellectual young man; and a court should lean gently upon his young errors.  But I can truly say, in justice to Judge King, that he subsequently became as indulgent to young lawyers as he should have been.  I remember that the Judge's course toward a young lawyer, Mr. Hovey, was entirely unexceptionable.  Judge King was not so popular with the bar generally as Judge Atchison, mainly for the reason that King was a religious man, and had not the amount of mirth and gayety that Atchison had.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHARACTERISTICS OF LAWYERS--NATURE OF LEGAL INVESTIGATIONS--DIFFICULTY OF SIMPLIFYING THE LAW--CAUSES OF INFIDELITY AMONG LAWYERS.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>I remember an incident which occurred in the winter of 1839-'40, at Savannah, the county seat of Andrew County.  There were about fifteen lawyers of us, all at the hotel; and one evening, after the court had finally adjourned, a discussion arose among us in regard to the truth of Christianity.  There was not a single lawyer present who was a professor of religion, and only one who believed Christianity to be true, and that was Amos Rees.  He manfully and earnestly maintained its true and divine origin.  The next day we rode together, and I said to him: "Amos, you deserve double damnation; because you know and believe the truth, and will not put it in practice.  Now, sir, whenever I am convinced of the truth of Christianity, you will find me acting up to what I believe to be true."  I have the pleasure of stating that a majority of the lawyers present at that time have since become professors of religion, myself among the number.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I never had any disposition to enter into mere personal quarrels.  Let me be satisfied that a great duty demands my exertions, and then I can face danger.  When I was satisfied that another person abused me in words, because he was sincere but mistaken in thinking he had good cause, I could not feel like holding him responsible for a mere error of judgment.  Good men ought never to quarrel.  There is a natural and immeasurable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>There is, among lawyers, a noble freedom allowed in debate; and though, in the moment of excited discussion, they may say that of each other which they never would in their cooler moments, a due and fair allowance is made for the circumstances.  Besides, lawyers must necessarily associate often together on the same side of a case; so that it is almost impossible to keep alive the enmity.  The other members of the bar interpose their kind offices for reconciliation; and they have so much respect for the views and feelings of each other that these kind requests will seldom be disregarded.  Among honorable members of the profession, there generally exists the greatest personal kindness, and little or no professional jealousy.  Each honorable member of this most distinguished profession is content with the practice he justly merits; and, as to those merits, there is a plain and satisfactory mode of determining the question.  They practice their profession, not only in the presence of each other, but before crowds of people and a competent Court.  If a lawyer be ignorant of the law, his adversary and the Court will tell him so, and thus expose his ignorance.  If he has merits, they are made manifest, as a general rule, by a conclusive test.  Time and experience soon settle the relative merits of different members of the bar practicing before the same Courts.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When a lawyer finds, upon due trial, that he is not suited to the profession, he can go to something else.  Most lawyers who find they can not succeed in the profession betake themselves to editing newspapers, where the same exact and logical mode of discussion is not required, but where each writer addresses himself mainly to a prejudiced audience, who seldom know what is said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In legal discussions, the positions of the opposite counsel are, in general, correctly stated and fairly met.  To misrepresent facts or positions is not only unprofessional, but idle and vain.  He who confutes a position never advanced does an idle and vain thing, by throwing away his efforts.  To labor for the purpose of exposing your own ignorance or unfairness is not very wise.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The modes of investigation in courts of justice are not only the most decisive of the merits of counsel and judges, but they are, for that reason, the best adapted to improve the reasoning faculties of the mind.  Any one who has ever participated in the discussion of important and difficult questions must have learned that there are classes of arguments apparently sound, but which in truth are utterly worthless, and have no real bearing upon the case.  When you hear a speaker, even upon a simple occasion, you can generally form a very good estimate of his ability.  If he has a clear logical mind, he will go to the <HI REND="italics">exact</HI>
055.sgm:<P>I confess I am partial to the law, and that, of all the secular learned professions, I love that of law most.  I am aware of the prejudices existing in the minds of many against the profession; and it must be conceded that a mean lawyer is one of the meanest of men, because he sins against light and example.  A pettifogger among lawyers is like a demagogue among statesmen--a most detestable character, weak in mind and unsound in morals, deserving neither respect nor pity.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>But these complaints against the law and lawyers are not much heeded by them.  Ignorance has been for ages complaining of the imperfections of the law, and proposing to make it so plain that all sane men could readily understand it.  But it seems never to have occurred to these restless wanderers after perfection that science is vast, and no science more so than that of law; and that to simplify the law to such an extent as to enable every man to be his own lawyer is just as difficult as to simplify land and marine architecture, or any other science which comprehends a multitude of particulars.  It requires very little intellect and study to construct an Indian wigwam or a rude canoe; but it takes mind and careful training to build a palace or construct a mighty steamship.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Rabid law-reformers have often been in the different State Legislatures; but, though no doubt sincere and determined in the beginning, they soon discovered some of the real difficulties in their way to simplicity.  To know how to improve the code you must first know its defects; and to know these you must understand the code itself.  By the time the rash and presumptuous law-reformer gets to that point, he begins to perceive the difficulties which beset his path.  When he comes to sit down and draft a code that will stand the test of honest and intelligent time, he will fully need all his imagined capacity.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I remember that, in the Vigilance Committee times of this State in 1856, there was a great hue and cry raised against lawyers.  I had retired from the practice myself, yet I loved the noble profession.  I had, however, no defense to make, but simply a compromise to propose.  I said: "Only give us back the productions of our labors--the Declaration of Independence, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:Constitutions of the United States and of every State in the Union, all the codes of law, the judicial decisions and learned treatises upon the science--and <HI REND="italics">do without them</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Surprise has often been expressed that there should be so many infidels among lawyers.  It can not be owing to the want of capacity to investigate the subject.  The Rev. David Nelson, in his work entitled "Cause and Cure of Infidelity," has these remarks:</P>
055.sgm:<P>"I do not know why it is so, but it is the result of eighteen years of experience that lawyers, of all those whom I have examined, exercise the clearest judgment while investigating the evidences of Christianity.  It is the business of the physician's life to <HI REND="italics">watch for evidence and indication</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The superiority attributed by the author to the legal fraternity arises mainly from these causes:</P>
055.sgm:<P>1.  It requires more natural logical power to be successful at the bar than in the practice of medicine. 2.  The mental training is more rigid and thorough. 3.  There is a competent and authoritative tribunal to determine controversies among lawyers.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The fact that there are so many infidels among <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>When a young man is studying law, he finds no time to think of religion; and, after he commences practice, the state of the case is much the same.  Logical minds are not prone to take a theory as true without proof; and the proofs of Christianity, though complete and conclusive to a moral certainty, yet require time and careful investigation to be able to understand them in their full and combined force.  These evidences consist of a great mass of testimony, both direct and circumstantial.  To succeed at the bar requires great capacity and industry.  The profession is compared by Lord Coke to a jealous mistress that will not tolerate a rival.  The main reason, therefore, why there are so many infidels among the members of the bar, is because they do not investigate the subject, and will not believe without investigation; and the reason why they do not investigate is mainly the incessant and arduous nature of their employments.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But, besides the want of time, there are other causes to prevent investigation.  There is a good deal, perhaps an over-proportion, of dissipation among lawyers.  Their forensic efforts are often so severe and exhaustive that they resort to the use of stimulants to support them for the time.  Others resort to stimulants because the use emboldens them, excites the imagination, and thus enables them to make the greatest display of oratory.  It is well known to members of the profession that dissipation wonderfully stimulates and matures the intellect for a time.  I have long observed that those lawyers who dissipate soonest arrive at maturity, and soonest go down, as a general rule.  They are nearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>But, besides these facts, there are the many varied scenes occurring in the practice, that continually call off the attention of lawyers from things future to things present.  The witty joke, the amusing anecdote, and the ardent discussion of legal questions in and out of court, make their lives one continued round of excitement.  Human nature is exhibited in courts of justice in its most vicious, melancholy, and ridiculous aspects.  One case is full of the most cunningly devised fraud, another of the most brutal crime, and a third is so full of the ridiculous that all must laugh; and the transition from one class of cases to others is often very rapid.  Lawyers but seldom see the best traits of man exhibited in court, for the reason that the best men are not often engaged in lawsuits.  For these and other reasons, the path of the lawyer is beset with temptation.</P>
055.sgm:<P>POLITICAL VIEWS. My father was a Whig, and so were my brothers-in-law.  When I was between sixteen and seventeen years of age, I read a paper edited by Duff Green, published in St. Louis, and became a Democrat.  But as I grew older, and since I have studied more deeply the science of government, I have seen more cause to doubt the practical result of our republican theory as it now exists.  I have always desired, whatever may have been my doubts, to give our theory a full and fair trial; being satisfied that, so long as our theory can be honestly and efficiently administered, it is the best form of government for the greatest number.  It is especially adapted to a young people, free from extreme want, and therefore independent and virtuous.  But when the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Mr. Jefferson was once considered by me as the apostle of liberty and a great statesman.  I do not question his sincerity or his patriotism, but I doubt his statesmanship.  I am now of the opinion that Alexander Hamilton was a much greater statesman than Jefferson or Madison.  Patrick Henry was the orator more than the statesman.  I now consider Hamilton to have had the clearest mind and the most logical power, and to have been the greatest statesman of our country.  His contributions to the "Federalist" prove this.  Chief Justice Marshall was a great man; but Hamilton was before him.  The appreciation of Hamilton by Washington was one of the greatest proofs of his most superior good sense.  He understood true merit when he found it.  Hamilton sacrificed himself to mistaken public opinion--the only serious error he committed.</P>
055.sgm:<P>REMARKS ON DUELING. I was never engaged in sending, or in bearing, and never received, a challenge to fight a duel.  As a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>It is claimed by its friends that it operates as a practical check upon the tongues and acts of men; and this no doubt is true as to some persons, but untrue as to others; so that, upon the whole, it is exceedingly doubtful whether it does, in point of fact, operate as a check upon slander and violence.  I have reflected much upon this subject, and watched its practical effect with some care.  I do not understand all the minute provisions of this code, but only know enough of its main points to justify my conclusions as to its substantial character.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It is insisted by the advocates of this code that the parties are placed as near upon an equality as, in the nature of things, they can be.  But is this true?  I think not.  It is made the duty of the party insulted to send the challenge, and the party challenged has a right to fix the terms upon which they meet; and he, consequently, insists upon those that give him a decided advantage.  The skillful use of weapons, especially of the dueling pistol, is an acquired art to a great extent, and requires years of continued practice to fix the art as a <HI REND="italics">habit</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Those who possess the natural capacity and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:habitual training have an immense advantage over those who have them not.  Habit is second nature, and becomes almost as certain as instinct; so that the habitually good shot will still shoot with his accustomed accuracy, whether alarmed or not, and, <HI REND="italics">knowing</HI>
055.sgm:<P>To induce a man to acquire the habitual use of the pistol, he must have, in his own estimation, some considerable motive; and when he becomes a first-rate shot he is almost certain to be proud of it, and will very naturally seek to use an art of which he is master.  We naturally love most that in which we most excel.  I have observed that men who continually wear arms become at last anxious to use them, and thirsty for blood.  They seem to think that, after they have carried arms for a long time and not used them, they have done an idle and vain thing.  It is a great personal inconvenience to wear arms and keep them always in good order; and he who does so must be continually brooding over scenes of blood, until he becomes at last anxious to get into them himself.  He is therefore much more apt to insult others than he would be if the dueling code did not exist.  He covets the reputation of the duelist, and seeks an opportunity to insult some one he dislikes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:He knows that, if he gives the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Duels are much more numerous among politicians, in proportion to numbers, than among any other class, except perhaps army officers. This arises, in many cases, from rivalship.  It becomes desirable to kill off certain aspirants, to get them out of the way.  Hence they are insulted.  Those well skilled in such matters know how much and what to say to produce a challenge.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As I have before stated, the code prevents some men from saying and doing things they would otherwise say or do; but it has a contrary effect on others.  There is, in the minds and hearts of proud men, a sort of glory in defying consequences; and this stimulates many men to say and do offensive things that they would not otherwise say and do; and also prevents them from making a proper explanation after they have done wrong, for fear it will be said that the explanation was the result of cowardice.  If public opinion held the practice of bitter language disreputable, this would prevent the use of it more effectually than the dueling code.  One thing seems certain, that personal quarrels are most common among those who admit the code.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Duels are not necessarily evidence of <HI REND="italics">personal</HI>
055.sgm:, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:they are evidence of the want of true <HI REND="italics">moral</HI>
055.sgm:<P>When a duelist uses courteous and gentlemanly language, no one can tell whether it is the result of fear or principle.  All are uncertain as to what motive to attribute his conduct, as all know he is acting under restraint if the code has any effect in silencing his tongue.  On the contrary, if he abuses another, there is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I can not understand upon what principle two really good men should fight a duel.  If they are willing to kill each other simply for fear of public opinion, they can not be good men.  If a man abuses and misrepresents you, and you are satisfied that he is sincere but mistaken, will you seek his life for a mere error of judgment or defect of memory?  On the contrary, if you are convinced that he willfully misrepresents you, then you believe he is a liar; and, unless you are a liar yourself, he is not your equal.  Why should a gentleman and a man of pure justice put his life against that of a man he regards as destitute of honest principles?</P>
055.sgm:<P>In short, my opinion of men who engage in duels is that most of them are atheists, whose moral conduct depends upon the sliding scale of the times, and who have no strict moral principles independent of public opinion.  They can generally have no faith in a future state of rewards and punishments; and hence they do whatever they deem most <HI REND="italics">successful</HI>
055.sgm:<P>I most readily and willingly admit that there are exceptions to these remarks.  Men sometimes labor under strange delusions, and lug themselves into the opinion that it is right, in some cases, to do wrong that good may come.  This was the case with Alexander Hamilton.  He conceded that the practice was wrong in itself, but yielded to a false public opinion, in order <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>But this plea of necessity is always found in the mouths of tyrants and moral culprits of every grade.  It is as false as the theory that you can do an unconstitutional act in accordance with the Constitution.  Whenever the public require a man to do that which is plainly wrong, in order to gain the privilege of serving it, I must say it is unworthy of his services, and he should leave those with more pliable consciences to serve a vitiated public.</P>
055.sgm:<P>JOIN THE DISCIPLES--ART OF GOVERNING CHILDREN. In 1840 I became a professor of Christianity, and joined the Disciples, or Campbellites as they were sometimes called.  I was in my thirty-third year.  I had long reflected much upon the subject, but could not come to the conclusion that Christianity was true.  I was a Deist.  I could never doubt the existence of God.  I saw in the visible creation the plainest possible evidences of design--a perfect adaptation of means to ends.  I could not conceive how chance could originate a <HI REND="italics">system</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Nor could I understand how this universe could be uncreated, and therefore eternal.  That which is uncreated must be infinite; and infinitude admits of no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The next step in the logical process is the conclusion that the Creator must govern, in some proper form, His own creation.  Matter without properties, brutes without instinct, and rational beings without free will and without law, are logically inconceivable.  Pursuing this logical process to an extent that I can not, for want of space, record here, I became thoroughly convinced of the entire truth of Christianity.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1840, I moved to Platte City, the county seat of Platte County.  My youngest child, Sallie, was born there in 1841. My son John M. Burnett was born in 1838, and is now a lawyer of good standing in San Francisco.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The true art of governing children is to study their peculiarities, and adapt your government to the disposition of the child.  The art of rearing good children is almost as difficult as that of governing a state.  Children, so far as they know the facts, are far more competent to draw correct conclusions than most people suppose.  Children are naturally truthful; and parents should not violate their own words, either in making promises of reward or threats of punishment.  Those who assume to govern ought to be worthy to direct, and should themselves never violate the principles or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>John was a noble and peculiar child, and always obedient when old enough to understand.  He was very sensitive, and never would bear scolding, the only punishment we ever inflicted upon him.  He cured us of this practice in this way:  When he was about four years old, and while we lived in Platte City, he was in the habit of talking a great deal at table.  One day I said to him, "John, why do you talk so much at table?"  He looked at me with the expression of astonishment in his face, and replied with childlike simplicity and earnestness, "I can not talk by myself," meaning that it was useless to talk unless he had some one to listen.  Within a day or two after this, his little tongue was again clattering away while we were at dinner, and his mother scolded him for it.  Upon this he was silent, but it was evident that he thought he was badly treated.  Just about that time some one commenced blowing a tin trumpet , and the boy's large black eye gleamed with a triumphant expression, and he at once said, "Mother! there's a horn or a woman's voice."  After that he was scolded very little.  I remember a very acute reply made by a little girl when seven years of age.  I was staying at a friend's house in Brooklyn, New York, in 1866, and his daughter Mattie was remarkably fond of her half-grown cat; so much so, that she would take it with her to the dinner-table.  Her mother said to her, "Why do you pet your cat so much?"  The child, with a serious expression upon her countenance, at once answered, "This cat can't go to heaven," meaning that the cat must be petted <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
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055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.<LB>DETERMINE TO GO TO OREGON.--ARRIVE AT THE RENDEZVOUS.--REMARKS ON THE NATURE OF THE TRIP.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>IN the fall of 1842 I moved to Weston, in Platte County, having purchased an interest in the place.  During the winter of 1842-'43 the Congressional report of Senator Appleton in reference to Oregon fell into my hands, and was read by me with great care.  This able report contained a very accurate description of that country.  At the same time there was a bill pending in Congress, introduced in the Senate by Dr. Linn, one of the Senators from Missouri, which proposed to donate to each immigrant six hundred and forty acres of land for himself, and one hundred and sixty acres for each child.  I had a wife and six children, and would therefore be entitled to sixteen hundred acres.  There was a fair prospect of the ultimate passage of the bill.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I saw that a great American community would grow up, in the space of a few years, upon the shores of the distant Pacific; and I felt an ardent desire to aid in this most important enterprise.  At that time the country was claimed by both Great Britain and the United States; so that the most ready and peaceable way to settle the conflicting and doubtful claims of the two governments was to fill the country with American citizens.  If we could only show, by a <HI REND="italics">practical</HI>
055.sgm: test, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The health of Mrs. Burnett had been delicate for some three years, and it was all we could do to keep her alive through the winter in that cold climate.  Her physician said the trip would either kill or cure her.  I was also largely indebted to my old partners in the mercantile business.  I had sold all my property, had lived in a plain style, had worked hard, and paid all I could spare each year; and still the amount of my indebtedness seemed to be reduced very little.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Putting all these considerations together, I determined, with the consent of my old partners, to move to Oregon.  I therefore laid all my plans and calculations before them.  I said that, if Dr. Linn's bill should pass, the land would ultimately enable me to pay up.  There was at least a chance.  In staying where I was, I saw no reasonable probability of ever being able to pay my debts.  I did a good practice, and was able to pay about a thousand dollars a year; but, with the accumulation of interest, it would require many years' payments, at this rate, to square the account.  I was determined not to go without the free consent and advice of my creditors.  They all most willingly gave their consent, and said to me, "Take what may be necessary for the trip, leave us what you can spare, and pay us the balance when you become able to do so."</P>
055.sgm:<P>I followed their advice, and set to work most vigorously to organize a wagon company.  I visited the surrounding counties, making speeches wherever I could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>A trip to Oregon with ox teams was at that time a new experiment, and was exceedingly severe upon the temper and endurance of people.  It was one of the most conclusive tests of character, and the very best school in which to study human nature.  Before the trip terminated, people acted upon their genuine principles, and threw off all disguises.  It was not that the trip was beset with very great perils, for we had no war with the Indians, and no stock stolen by them.  But there were ten thousand little vexations continually recurring, which could not be foreseen before they occurred, nor fully remembered when past, but were keenly felt while passing.  At one time an ox would be missing, at another time a mule, and then a struggle for the best encampment, and for a supply of wood and water; and, in these struggles, the worst traits of human nature were displayed, and there was no remedy but patient endurance. At the beginning of the journey there were several fisticuff fights in camp; but the emigrants soon abandoned that practice, and thereafter confined themselves to abuse in words only.  The man with a black eye and battered face could not well hunt up his cattle or drive his team.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But the subject of the greatest and most painful anxiety to us was the suffering of our poor animals.  We could see our faithful oxen dying inch by inch, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Our emigrants were placed in a new and trying position, and it was interesting to see the influence of pride and old habits over men.  They were often racing with their teams in the early portion of the journey, though they had before them some seventeen hundred miles of travel.  No act could have been more inconsiderate than for men, under such circumstances, to injure their teams simply to gratify their ambition.  Yet the proper rule in such a case was to allow any and every one to pass you who desired to do so.  Our emigrants, on the first portion of the trip, were about as wasteful of their provisions as if they had been at home.  When portions of bread were left over, they were thrown away; and, when any one came to their tents, he was invited to eat.  I remember well that, for a long time, the five young men I had with me refused to eat any part of the bacon rind, which accordingly fell to my share, in addition to an equal division of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>START FROM THE RENDEZVOUS--KILL OUR FIRST BUFFALO--KILL OUR FIRST ANTELOPE--DESCRIPTION OF THE ANTELOPE. I kept a concise journal of the trip as far as Walla Walla, and have it now before me.  On the 18th of May the emigrants at the rendezvous held a meeting, and appointed a committee of seven to inspect wagons, and one of five to draw up rules and regulations for the journey.  At this meeting I made the emigrants a speech, an exaggerated report of which was made in 1875, by ex-Senator J. W. Nesmith of Oregon, in his address to the Pioneers of that State.  The meeting adjourned to meet at the Big Springs on Saturday, the 20th of May.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 20th I attended the meeting at the Big Springs, where I met Colonel John Thornton, Colonel Bartleson, Mr. Rickman, and Dr. Whitman.  At this meeting rules and regulations were adopted.  Mr.--, who was from high up on Big Pigeon, near Kit Bullard's mill, Tennessee, proposed that we should adopt either the criminal laws of Tennessee or those of Missouri for our government on the route.  William Martin and Daniel Matheny were appointed a committee to engage Captain John Gant as our pilot as far as Fort Hall.  He was accordingly employed; and it was agreed in camp that we all should start on Monday morning, May 22.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>On the 22d of May, 1843, a general start was made from the rendezvous, and we reached Elm Grove, about fifteen miles distant, at about 3 P.M.  This grove had but two trees, both elms, and some few dogwood bushes, which we used for fuel.  The small elm was most beautiful, in the wild and lonely prairie; and the large one had all its branches trimmed off for firewood.  The weather being clear, and the road as good as possible, the day's journey was most delightful.  The white-sheeted wagons and the fine teams, moving in the wilderness of green prairie, made the most lovely appearance.  The place where we encamped was very beautiful; and no scene appeared to our enthusiastic visions more exquisite than the sight of so many wagons, tents, fires, cattle, and people, as were here collected.  At night the sound of joyous music was heard in the tents.  Our long journey thus began in sunshine and song, in anecdote and laughter; but these all vanished before we reached its termination.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 24th we reached the Walkalusia River, where we let our wagons down the steep bank by ropes.  On the 26th we reached the Kansas River, and we finished crossing it on the 31st.  At this crossing we met Fathers De Smet and De Vos, missionaries to the Flathead Indians.  On the 1st of June we organized our company, by electing Peter H. Burnett as Captain, J. W. Nesmith as Orderly Sergeant, and nine councilmen.  On the 6th we met a war party of Kansas and Osage Indians, numbering about ninety warriors.  They were all mounted on horses, had their faces painted red, and had with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>None of us knew anything about a trip across the Plains, except our pilot Captain Gant, who had made several trips with small parties of hired and therefore disciplined men, who knew how to obey orders.  But my company was composed of very different materials; and our pilot had no knowledge that qualified him to give me sound advice.  I adopted rules and endeavored to enforce them, but found much practical difficulty and opposition; all of which I at first attributed to the fact that our emigrants were green at the beginning, but comforted myself with the belief that they would improve in due time; but my observation soon satisfied me that matters would grow worse.  It became very doubtful whether so large a body of emigrants could be practically kept together on such a journey.  These considerations induced me to resign on the 8th of June, and William Martin was elected as my successor.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 12th of June we were greatly surprised and delighted to hear that Captain Gant had killed a buffalo.  The animal was seen at the distance of a mile from the hunter, who ran upon him with his horse and shot him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>On the 15th of June one of our party killed an antelope.  This is perhaps the fleetest animal in the world except the gazelle, and possesses the quickest sight excepting the gazelle and the giraffe.  The antelope has a large black eye, like those of the gazelle and giraffe, but has no acute sense of smell.  For this reason this animal is always found in the prairie, or in very open timber, and will never go into a thicket.  He depends upon his superior sight to discern an enemy, and upon his fleetness to escape him.  I have heard it said that, when wolves are much pressed with hunger, they hunt the antelope in packs, the wolves placing themselves in different positions.  Antelopes, like most wild game, have their limits, within which they range for food and water; and, when chased by the wolves, the antelope will run in something like a circle, confining himself to his accustomed haunts.  When the chase commences, the antelope flies off so rapidly that he leaves his pursuers far behind; but the tough and hungry wolf, with his keen scent, follows on his track; and, by the time the antelope has become cool and a little stiff, the wolf is upon him, and he flies from his enemy a second time.  This race continues, fresh wolves coming into the chase to relieve those that are tired, until at last the poor antelope, with all his quickness of sight and fleetness of foot, is run down and captured.  As soon as he is killed, the wolf that has captured him sets up a loud howl to summon his companions in the chase to the banquet.  When all have arrived, they set to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>When an antelope once sees the hunter, it is impossible to stalk the animal.  On the trip to Oregon I tried the experiment without success.  When I saw the antelope, upon the top of a small hill or mound, looking at me, I would turn and walk away in the opposite direction, until I was out of sight of the animal; then I would make a turn at right angles, until I found some object between me and the antelope, behind which I could approach unseen within rifle-shot; but invariably the wily creature would be found on the top of some higher elevation, looking at me creeping up behind the object that I had supposed concealed me from my coveted prey.  The only practical way of deceiving an antelope is to fall flat upon the ground among the grass, and hold up on your ramrod a hat or handkerchief, while you keep yourself concealed from his view.  Though exceedingly wary, the curiosity of the animal is so great that he will often slowly and cautiously approach within rifle-shot.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 16th of June we saw a splendid race between some of our dogs and an antelope, which ran all the way down the long line of wagons, and about a hundred and fifty yards distant from them.  Greyhounds were let loose, but could not catch it.  It ran very smoothly, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Lindsey Applegate gave this amusing and somewhat exaggerated account of a race between a very fleet greyhound and an antelope.  The antelope was off to the right of the road half a mile distant, and started to cross the road at right angles ahead of the train.  The greyhound saw him start in the direction of the road, and ran to meet him, so regulating his pace as to intercept the antelope at the point where he crossed the road.  The attention of the antelope being fixed upon the train, he did not see the greyhound until the latter was within twenty feet of him.  Then the struggle commenced, each animal running at his utmost speed.  The greyhound only ran about a quarter of a mile, when he gave up the race, and looked with seeming astonishment at the animal that beat him, as no other animal had ever done before.  Applegate declared, in strong hyperbolical language, that "the antelope ran a mile before you could see the dust rise."</P>
055.sgm:<P>CROSS TO THE GREAT VALLEY OF THE PLATTE--BUFFALO HUNT--DESCRIPTION OF THAT ANIMAL. Ever since we crossed Kansas River we had been traveling up Blue River, a tributary of the former.  On the 17th of June we reached our last encampment on Blue.  We here saw a band of Pawnee Indians, returning from a buffalo-hunt.  They had quantities of dried buffalo-meat, of which they generously gave us a good supply.  They were fine-looking Indians, who did not shave their heads, but cut their hair short like white men.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>On the 18th of June we crossed from the Blue to the great Platte River, making a journey of from twenty-five to thirty miles, about the greatest distance we ever traveled in a single day.  The road was splendid, and we drove some distance into the Platte bottom, and encamped in the open prairie without fuel.  Next morning we left very early, without breakfast, having traveled two hundred and seventy-one miles from the rendezvous, according to the estimated distance recorded in my journal.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We traveled up the south bank of the Platte, which, at the point where we struck it, was from a mile to a mile and a half wide.  Though not so remarkable as the famed and mysterious Nile (which, from the mouth of the Atbara River to the Mediterranean sea, runs through a desert some twelve hundred miles without receiving a single tributary), the Platte is still a remarkable stream.  Like the Nile, it runs hundreds of miles through a desert without receiving any tributaries.  Its general course is almost as straight as a direct line.  It runs through a formation of sand of equal consistence; and this is the reason its course is so direct.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The valley of the Platte is about twenty miles wide, through the middle of which this wide, shallow, and muddy stream makes its rapid course.  Its banks are low, not exceeding five or six feet in height; and the river bottoms on each side seem to the eye a dead level, covered with luxuriant grass.  Ten miles from the river you come to the foot of the table-lands, which are also apparently a level sandy plain, elevated some hundred and fifty feet above the river bottoms.  On these plains grows the short buffalo-grass, upon which the animal feeds during a portion of the year.  As the dry season approaches, the water, which stands in pools on these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>In making our monotonous journey up the smooth valley of the Platte, through the warm genial sunshine of summer, the feeling of drowsiness was so great that it was extremely difficult to keep awake during the day.  Instances occurred where the drivers went to sleep on the road, sitting in the front of their wagons; and the oxen, being about as sleepy, would stop until the drivers were aroused from their slumber.  My small wagon was only used for the family to ride in; and Mrs. Burnett and myself drove and slept alternately during the day.</P>
055.sgm:<P>One great difficulty on this part of the trip was the scarcity of fuel.  Sometimes we found dry willows, sometimes we picked up pieces of drift-wood along the way, which we put into our wagons, and hauled them along until we needed them.  At many points of the route up the Platte we had to use buffalo-chips.  By cutting a trench some ten inches deep, six inches wide, and two feet long, we were enabled to get along with very little fuel.  At one or two places the wind was so severe that we were forced to use the trenches in order to make a fire at all.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 20th of June we sent out a party of hunters, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The American buffalo is a peculiar animal, remarkably hardy, and much fleeter of foot than any one would suppose from his round short figure.  It requires a fleet horse to overtake him.  His sense of smell is remarkably acute, while those of sight and hearing are very dull.  If the wind blows from the hunter to the buffalo, it is impossible to approach him.  I remember that, on one occasion, while we were traveling up the Platte, I saw a band of some forty buffaloes running obliquely toward the river on the other side from us, and some three miles off; and, the moment that their leader struck the stream of tainted atmosphere passing from us to them, he and the rest of the herd turned at right angles from their former course, and fled in the direction of the wind.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On one occasion five of us went out on fleet horses to hunt buffaloes.  We soon found nine full-grown animals, feeding near the head of a ravine.  The wind blew from them to us, and their keen scent was thus worthless to them, as the smell will only travel with the wind.  We rode quietly up the ravine, until we arrived at a point only about one hundred yards distant, when we formed in line, side by side, and the order was given to charge.  We put our horses at once to their utmost speed; and the loud clattering of their hoofs over the dry hard ground at once attracted the attention of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I followed the wounded buffalo, and my comrades followed the others.  The moment I began to press closely upon the wounded animal, he turned suddenly around, and faced me with his shaggy head, black horns, and gleaming eyes.  My pony stopped instantly, and I rode around the old bull to get a shot at his side, knowing that it would be idle to shoot him in the head, as no rifle-ball will penetrate to the brain of a buffalo-bull.  But the animal would keep his head toward me.  I knew my pony had been trained to stand wherever he was left, and I saw that the wounded bull never charged at the horse.  So I determined to dismount, and try to get a shot on foot.  I would go a few yards from my horse, and occasionally the buffalo would bound toward me, and then I would dodge behind my pony, which stood like a statue, not exhibiting the slightest fear.  For some reason the wounded animal would not attack the pony.  Perhaps the buffalo had been before chased by Indians on horseback, and for that reason was afraid of the pony.  At last I got a fair opportunity, and shot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>On the 27th of June our people had halted for lunch at noon, and to rest the teams and allow the oxen to graze.  Our wagons were about three hundred yards from the river, and were strung out in line to the distance of one mile.  While taking our lunch we saw seven buffalo-bulls on the opposite side of the river, coming toward us, as if they intended to cross the river in the face of our whole caravan.  When they arrived on the opposite bank they had a full view of us; and yet they deliberately entered the river, wading a part of the distance, and swimming the remainder.  When we saw that they were determined to cross at all hazards, our men took their rifles, formed in line between the wagons and the river, and awaited the approach of the animals.  So soon as they rose the bank, they came on in a run, broke boldly through the line of men, and bore to the left of the wagons.  Three of them were killed, and most of the others wounded.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>CROSS THE SOUTH FORK--ARRIVE AT FORT LARAMIE--CHEYENNE CHIEF--CROSS THE NORTH FORK--DEATHS OF PAINE AND STEVENSON--CROSS GREEN RIVER--ARRIVE AT FORT HALL. On the 29th of June we arrived at a grove of timber, on the south bank of the South Fork of the Platte.  This was the only timber we had seen since we struck the river, except on the islands, which were covered with cottonwoods and willows.  From our first camp upon the Platte to this point, we had traveled, according to my estimates recorded in my journal, one hundred and seventy-three miles, in eleven days.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On July 1st we made three boats by covering our wagon-boxes or beds with green buffalo-hides sewed together, stretched tightly over the boxes, flesh side out, and tacked on with large tacks; and the boxes, thus covered, were then turned up to the sun until the hides were thoroughly dry.  This process of drying the green hides had to be repeated several times.  From July 1st to the 5th, inclusive, we were engaged in crossing the river.  On the 7th we arrived at the south bank of the North Fork of the Platte, having traveled a distance of twenty-nine miles from the South Fork.  We had not seen any prairie-chickens since we left the Blue.  On the 9th we saw three beautiful wild horses.  On the 14th we arrived at Fort Laramie, where we remained two days, repairing our wagons.  We had traveled from the crossing of South Fork one hundred and forty-one miles in nine days.  Prices of articles at this trading post: Coffee, $1.50 a pint; brown sugar, the same; flour, unbolted, 25 cents a pound; powder, $1.50 a pound; lead, 75 cents a pound; percussion-caps, $1.50 a box; calico, very inferior, $1 a yard.</P>
055.sgm:<P>At the Fort we found the Cheyenne chief and some of his people.  He was a tall, trim, noble-looking Indian, aged about thirty.  The Cheyennes at that time boasted that they had never shed the blood of the white man.  He went alone very freely among our people, and I happened to meet him at one of our camps, where there was a foolish, rash young man, who wantonly insulted the chief.  Though the chief did not understand the insulting words, he clearly comprehended the insulting tone and gestures.  I saw from the expression of his countenance that the chief was most indignant, though perfectly cool and brave.  He made no reply in words, but walked away slowly; and, when some twenty feet from the man who had insulted him, he turned around, and solemnly and slowly shook the forefinger of his right hand at the young man several times, as much as to say, "I will attend to your case."</P>
055.sgm:<P>I saw there was trouble coming, and I followed the chief, and by kind earnest gestures made him understand at last that this young man was considered by us all as a half-witted fool, unworthy of the notice of any sensible man; and that we never paid attention to what he said, as we hardly considered him responsible for his language.  The moment the chief comprehended my meaning I saw a change come over his countenance, and he went away perfectly satisfied.  He was a clear-headed man; and, though unlettered, he understood human nature.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In traveling up the South Fork we saw several Indians, who kept at a distance, and never manifested any disposition to molest us in any way.  They saw we were mere travelers through their country, and would only destroy a small amount of their game.  Besides, they must have been impressed with a due sense of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The Indians always considered the wild game as much their property as they did the country in which it was found.  Though breeding and maintaining the game cost them no labor, yet it lived and fattened on their grass and herbage, and was as substantially within the power of these roving people and skillful hunters as the domestic animals of the white man.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 24th of July we crossed the North Fork of Platte by fording, without difficulty, having traveled the distance of one hundred and twenty-two miles from Fort Laramie in nine days.  On the 27th, we arrived at the Sweetwater, having traveled from the North Fork fifty-five miles in three days.  On the 3d of August, while traveling up the Sweetwater, we first came in sight of the eternal snows of the Rocky Mountains.  This to us was a grand and magnificent sight.  We had never before seen the perpetually snow-clad summit of a mountain.  This day William Martin brought into camp the foot of a very rare carnivorous animal, much like the hyena, and with no known name.  It was of a dark color, had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>On the 4th of August Mr. Paine died of fever, and we remained in camp to bury him.  We buried him in the wild, shelterless plains, close to the new road we had made, and the funeral scene was most sorrowful and impressive.  Mr. Garrison, a Methodist preacher, a plain, humble man, delivered a most touching and beautiful prayer at the lonely grave.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 5th, 6th, and 7th we crossed the summit of the Rocky Mountains, and on the evening of the 7th we first drank of the waters that flow into the great Pacific.  The first Pacific water we saw was that of a large, pure spring.  On the 9th we came to the Big Sandy at noon.  This day Stevenson died of fever, and we buried him on the sterile banks of that stream.  On the 11th we crossed Green River, so called from its green color.  It is a beautiful stream, containing fine fish.  On the margins of this stream there are extensive groves of small cottonwood-trees, about nine inches in diameter, with low and brushy tops.  These trees are cut down by the hunters and trappers in winter, for the support of their mules and hardy Indian ponies.  The animals feed on the tender twigs, and on the bark of the smaller limbs, and in this way manage to live.  Large quantities of this timber are thus destroyed annually.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 12th of August we were informed that Dr. Whitman had written a letter, stating that the Catholic missionaries had discovered, by the aid of their Flathead Indian pilot, a pass through the mountains by way of Fort Bridger, which was shorter than the old route.  We therefore determined to go by the fort.  There was a heavy frost with thin ice this morning.  On the 14th we arrived at Fort Bridger, situated on Black's Fork of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Fort Hall was then a trading post, belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, and was under the charge of Mr. Grant, who was exceedingly kind and hospitable.  The fort was situated on the south bank of Snake River, in a wide, fertile valley, covered with luxuriant grass, and watered by numerous springs and small streams.  This valley had once been a great resort for buffaloes, and their skulls were scattered around in every direction.  We saw the skulls of these animals for the last time at Fort Boise, beyond which point they were never seen.  The Company had bands of horses and herds of cattle grazing on these rich bottom-lands.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Up to this point the route over which we had passed was perhaps the finest natural road, of the same length, to be found in the world.  Only a few loaded wagons had ever made their way to Fort Hall, and were there abandoned.  Dr. Whitman in 1836 had taken a wagon as far as Fort Boise, by making a cart on two of the wheels, and placing the axletree and the other two wheels in his cart.  (Gray's "Oregon," page 133.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>We here parted with our respected pilot, Captain John Gant.  Dr. Marcus Whitman was with us at the fort, and was our pilot from there to the Grande Ronde, where he left us in charge of an Indian pilot, whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>We had now arrived at a most critical period in our most adventurous journey; and we had many misgivings as to our ultimate success in making our way with our wagons, teams, and families.  We had yet to accomplish the untried and most difficult portion of our long and exhaustive journey.  We could not anticipate at what moment we might be compelled to abandon our wagons in the mountains, pack our scant supplies upon our poor oxen, and make our way on foot through this terribly rough country, as best we could.  We fully comprehended the situation; but we never faltered in our inflexible determination to accomplish the trip, if within the limits of possibility, with the resources at our command.  Dr. Whitman assured us that we could succeed, and encouraged and aided us with every means in his power.  I consulted Mr. Grant as to his opinion of the practicability of taking our wagons through.  He replied that, while he would not say it was impossible for us Americans to make the trip with our wagons, he could not himself see how it could be done.  He had only traveled the pack-trail, and certainly no wagons could follow that route; but there might be a practical road found by leaving the trail at certain points.</P>
055.sgm:<P>LEAVE FORT HALL--SAGE-BRUSH LANDS--SALMON FALLS--THE SPEAR OF THE INDIAN FISHERMAN--CROSS SNAKE RIVER--KILL A LARGE SALMON. On the 30th of August we quitted Fort Hall, many of our young men having left us with pack-trains.  Our route lay down Snake River for some distance.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The taste of the sage is exceedingly bitter; the shrub has a brown somber appearance, and a most disagreeable smell.  The stem at the surface of the ground is from one to two inches in diameter, and soon branches, so as to form a thick brushy top.  The texture of the stem is peculiar, and unlike that of any other shrub, being all bark and no sap or heart, and appears like the outside bark of the grape-vine.  How the sap ascends from the roots to the branches, or whether the shrub draws its nutriment from the air, I am not able to decide.  One thing I remember well, that the stems of the green growing sage were good for fuel and burned most readily, and so rapidly that the supply had to be continually renewed; showing that they were not only dry, but of very slight, porous texture.  Had the sage been as stout and hard as other shrubbery of the same size, we should have been compelled to cut our wagonway through it, and could never have passed over it as we did, crushing it beneath the feet of our oxen and the wheels of our wagons.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The geographical features of the Pacific coast are Asiatic in their appearance, being composed of mountains and valleys.  Our hills swell to mountains, and our valleys are to the eye a dead level, yet they generally descend about nine or ten feet to the mile. We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Colonel Mercer of Oregon delivered a lecture in the City of New York on April 6, 1878, as appears from the telegram to the "Daily Alta" of the 7th, in which he set forth the wonderful fertility of the sage-brush lands, which until recently had been supposed to be valueless.  The sage-brush lands through which we passed in 1843 appeared to be worthless, not only because of the apparent sterility of the soil, but for the want of water.  With plentiful irrigation, I think it quite probable that these lands, in most places, might be rendered fruitful.  Water is a great fertilizer, and nothing but experiment can actually demonstrate how far these wilderness plains can be redeemed.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 7th of September, 1843, we arrived at the Salmon Falls on Snake River, where we purchased from the Snake Indians dried and fresh salmon, giving one ball and one charge of powder for each dried fish.  We found several lodges of Indians here, who were very poorly clad, and who made a business of fishing at the falls.  The falls were about eight feet perpendicular at that stage of water, with rapids below for some distance.  The stream is divided upon the rapids into various narrow channels, through which the waters pass with a very shallow and rapid current, so that the fisherman can wade across them.  The salmon are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>One of our emigrants, having been informed before he started on the trip that the clear, living waters of the Columbia and its tributaries were full of salmon, had brought all the way from Missouri a three-pronged harpoon, called a gig.  The metallic portion of this fishing instrument was securely riveted on the end of a smooth, strong pole, about ten feet long and two inches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:by a wonderful instinct, ascend to the upper branches, where they can deposit their numerous spawn in a place secure from enemies.  The waters of these mountain-streams are so clear as to remind one of Dryden's description <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Of shallow brooks, that flowed so clear,<LB>The bottom did the top appear."<LB></HI>
055.sgm:<P>In the pebbly bottoms of these tributary streams the female salmon hollows out a cavity of sufficient depth to form an eddy, in which she can deposit her spawn without the danger of their being swept away by the current.  The one we killed was doubtless in her nest, which she refused to quit.</P>
055.sgm:<P>From all the information I was able to obtain while residing in Oregon, grown salmon which once leave the ocean never return.  This was the opinion of Sir James Douglas, which was confirmed by my own observation.  But there seems to be a difference of opinion on the question.  I have lately conversed with B. B. Redding upon this subject, and it is his opinion that about ten per cent. return alive to the ocean, as about that proportion are caught in the Sacramento River on the upper side of the gill-nets used by the fishermen.  This may be the more correct opinion.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The male salmon is armed with strong, sharp teeth, and they fight and wound each other severely.  While the female is making and guarding her nest, her mate remains close by, watching and waiting with the greatest fidelity and patience; and, when any other fish approaches too near, he darts at him with the utmost swiftness and ferocity.  The spawn is always deposited in the pebbly bed of the stream, where the water is swift and comparatively shallow, and where other fish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>For hours I have watched the efforts of salmon to pass over the Willamette Falls, at Oregon City.  For the space of one or two minutes I would not see a fish in the air.  Then, all at once, I would see one leap out of the water, followed immediately by great numbers.  Some would rise from ten to fifteen feet, while many would not ascend more than four or five; but all seemed equally determined to succeed.  They had selected the most practicable point, and approached very near the column of descending water, and rose from the eddy caused by the reflow.  Occasionally one would go over; but the great majority pitched with their heads plump against the wall of rock behind the torrent, and fell back, more or less wounded, to try again.  There was a shelf in the rock three or four feet below the top, and I have seen salmon catch on this shelf, rest for an instant, then flounce off and fall into the water below.  So long as a salmon is alive, its head will be found up stream, and every effort made, though feeble, will be to ascend.  Sometimes, when in very shallow water, the fish may descend to a short distance to escape an enemy for the time; but its constant instinct is to go up higher, until it reaches the place to deposit its eggs.</P>
055.sgm:<P>BOILING SPRING--FORT BOISE--BURNT RIVER--THE LONE PINE--THE GRANDE RONDE--THE BLUE MOUNTAINS--ARRIVE AT DR. WHITMAN'S MISSION--ARRIVE AT WALLA WALLA. On the 14th of September we passed the Boiling Spring.  Its water is hot enough to cook an egg.  It runs out at three different places, forming a large branch, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On the 20th of September we arrived at Fort Boise, then in charge of Mr. Payette, having traveled from Fort Hall, two hundred and seventy-three miles, in twenty-one days.  Mr. Payette, the manager, was kind and very polite.  On the 21st we recrossed the Snake River by fording, which was deep but safe.  On the 24th we reached Burnt River, so named from the many fires that have occurred there, destroying considerable portions of timber.  It hardly deserves to be called a river, being only a creek of fair size.  The road up this stream was then a terrible one, as the latter runs between two ranges of tall mountains, through a narrow valley full of timber, which we had not the force or time to remove.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 27th of September we had some rain during the night, and next morning left Burnt River.  To-day we saw many of the most beautiful objects in nature.  In our rear, on our right and left, were ranges of tall mountains, covered on the sides with magnificent forests of pine, the mountain-tops being dressed in a robe of pure snow; and around their summits the dense masses of black clouds wreathed themselves in fanciful shapes, the sun glancing through the open spaces upon the gleaming mountains.  We passed through some most beautiful valleys, and encamped on a branch of the Powder River, at the Lone Pine.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This noble tree stood in the center of a most lovely valley, about ten miles from any other timber.  It could be seen, at the distance of many miles, rearing its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On the 29th and 30th of September we passed through rich, beautiful valleys, between ranges of snowclad mountains, whose sides were covered with noble pine forests.  On October 1st we came into and through Grande Ronde, one of the most beautiful valleys in the world, embosomed among the Blue Mountains, which are covered with magnificent pines.  It was estimated to be about a hundred miles in circumference.  It was generally rich prairie, covered with luxuriant grass, and having numerous beautiful streams passing through it, most of which rise from springs at the foot of the mountains bordering the valley.  In this valley the camasroot abounds, which the Indians dried upon hot rocks.  We purchased some from them, and found it quite palatable to our keen appetites.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 2d of October we ascended the mountain-ridge at the Grande Ronde, and descended on the other side of the ridge to a creek, where we camped.  These <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On the 10th of October we arrived within three miles of Dr. Whitman's mission, and remained in camp until the 14th.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The exhausting tedium of such a trip and the attendant vexations have a great effect upon the majority of men, especially upon those of weak minds.  Men, under such circumstances, become childish, petulant, and obstinate.  I remember that while we were at the mission of Dr. Whitman, who had performed much hard labor for us, and was deserving of our warmest gratitude, he was most ungenerously accused by some of our people of selfish motives in conducting us past his establishment, where we could procure fresh supplies of flour and potatoes.  This foolish, false, and ungrateful charge was based upon the fact that he asked us a dollar a bushel for wheat, and forty cents for potatoes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On the 16th of October we arrived at Fort Walla Walla, then under the charge of Mr. McKinley; having traveled from Fort Boise, two hundred and two miles, in twenty-four days, and from the rendezvous, sixteen hundred and ninety-one miles, between the 22d of May and the 16th of October, being one hundred and forty-seven days.  Average distance per day, eleven and a half miles.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>DESCEND THE RIVER TO THE DALLES--LEAVE MY FAMILY THERE--GO TO VANCOUVER AND RETURN--GOVERNOR FREMONT. A portion of our emigrants left their wagons and cattle at Walla Walla, and descended the Columbia in boats; while another, and the larger portion, made their way with their wagons and teams to the Dalles, whence they descended to the Cascades on rafts, and thence to Fort Vancouver in boats and canoes.  William Beagle and I had agreed at the rendezvous not to separate until we reached the end of our journey.  We procured from Mr. McKinley, at Walla Walla, an old Hudson's Bay Company's boat, constructed expressly for the navigation of the Columbia and its tributaries.  These boats are very light, yet strong.  They are open, about forty feet long, five feet wide, and three feet deep, made of light, tough materials, and clinker-built.  They are made in this manner so that they may be carried around the falls of the Columbia, and let down over the Cascades.  When taken out of the water and carried over the portage, it requires the united exertions of forty or fifty Indians, who take the vessel on their shoulders, amid shouts and hurras, and thus carry it sometimes three fourths of a mile, without once letting it down.  At the Cascades it is let down by means of ropes in the hands of the Canadian boatmen.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We employed an Indian pilot, who stood with a stout, long, broad paddle in the bow of the boat, while Beagle stood at the stern, holding a long steering-oar, such as were used upon flat-bottoms and keel-boats in the Western States.  I remember that my friend Beagle, before we left Walla Walla, expressed great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Our Indian pilot was very cool, determined, and intrepid; and Beagle always obeyed him, right or wrong.  On one occasion, I remember, we were passing down a terrible rapid, with almost the speed of a race-horse, when a huge rock rose above the water before us, against which the swift and mighty volume of the river furiously dashed in vain, and then suddenly turned to the right, almost at right angles.  The Indian told Beagle to hold the bow of the boat directly toward that rock, as if intending to run plump upon it, while the rest of us pulled upon our oars with all our might, so as to give her such a velocity as not to be much affected by the surging waves.  The Indian stood calm and motionless in the bow, paddle in hand, with his features set as if prepared to meet immediate death; and, when we were within from twenty to thirty feet of that terrible rock, as quick almost as thought he plunged his long, broad paddle perpendicularly into the water on the left side of the bow, and with it gave a sudden wrench, and the boat instantly turned upon its center to the right, and we passed the rock in safety.</P>
055.sgm:<P>While passing through these dangers I was not much alarmed, but after they were passed I could never think of them without a sense of fear.  Three of our emigrants were drowned just above the Dalles, but we reached them in safety, sending our boat through them, while the families walked around them on dry land.  These Dalles are a great natural curiosity; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>When we arrived at the Methodist mission, located at the foot of the Dalles, I saw at once that there must some day grow up a town there, as that was the head of safe steam navigation.  From there to the Cascades, a distance of about fifty miles, the river is entirely smooth and without a rapid.  At the Cascades there is a portage to be made, but, once below them, and there is nothing but smooth water to the ocean.  I determined at once to settle at the Dalles; and, after consultation with Mr. Perkins, the minister in charge, I left my family there and proceeded to Vancouver, where I arrived about the 7th of November, 1843.</P>
055.sgm:<P>At Fort Vancouver I found Governor Fremont, then Lieutenant Fremont, who had been there a few days.  He had left his men and animals at the Dalles, and had descended the river to the fort for the purpose of purchasing supplies, to enable him to make the trip overland to California during that winter.  The preceding year he had made an exploring trip to the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains; but this was his first journey to Oregon and California.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Hudson's Bay Company furnished him, on the credit of the United States, all the supplies he required, and sent them up the river in one of their boats, such as I have already described, and three Chinook canoes.  These canoes are substantially of the same model as the clipper-ship, and most probably suggested the idea of such a form of marine architecture.  They are made out of a solid piece of white-cedar timber, which is usually one quarter of the first cut of a large tree.  It is a soft wood, but very tough.  This timber grows upon the banks of the Columbia, below Vancouver, to a very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Dr. McLoughlin and Mr. Douglas, then chief factors at the fort, advised me to go for my family, and settle in the lower portion of Oregon, and kindly offered me a passage up and down on their boat.  We left the fort about the 11th of November in the evening, while it was raining.  It came down gently but steadily.  We reached the foot of the rapids, three miles below the Cascades, before sundown on the third day.  We found that the Indians could propel their canoes with paddles much faster than we could our boat with oars.  We ascended the river to the distance of about one mile above the foot of the rapids; and just before dark we encamped upon a sand-beach, the only spot where we could do so without ascending higher up the rapids.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Indians, with the three canoes, had passed on farther up the river; and, although we fired <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>When we encamped, it was cloudy but not raining, and we were very hungry after our day's hard work; but our bill of fare consisted of salt salmon and cold bread.  We knew, from the appearance of the thickening but smooth clouds, that we should most likely have a rainy night.  The lower portion of Oregon lies between the tall Cascade range of mountains and the ocean.  This range runs almost parallel with the Pacific Ocean, and about a hundred and twenty-five miles from it.  The clouds in the rainy season break upon this range; and the Cascades are at the point where the mighty Columbia cuts at right angles through it.  We had been told that it rained oftener and harder at the Cascades than at almost any other point in Oregon; and, to our injury, we found it true.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Supper being ended, we laid ourselves down before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Next morning we rose fresh and fasting, and ascended to the Indian encampment, where the Governor found our Indians comfortably housed in the lodge, cooking breakfast.  He was somewhat vexed, and made them hustle out in short order.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It took us some days to make the portage, it raining nearly all the while.  At the head of the Cascades there were several large, projecting rocks, under one side of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>We were anxious to proceed, as Governor Fremont had still to make the perilous journey to California; but there were only some five to eight whites to several hundred Indians.  But the cool, determined, yet prudent Fremont managed to command our Indians, and induce them to work.  When nothing else would avail, he would put out their fires.  Finding it necessary to work or shiver, they preferred to work.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When we had reloaded our craft, we set forward for the Dalles; and we had not gone more than ten miles before we could see clear out and beyond the clouds, into the pure blue sky.  We were almost vexed to think we had been so near to a sunny region all the time we had been suffering so much from the rain.  We soon reached a point on the river above where there had been no rain; and from that point to the Dalles we had cold, clear, frosty nights.  We arrived at the Dalles in about ten days after leaving Vancouver.  I went with the Governor to his camp of about forty men and one hundred animals.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I was with Governor Fremont about ten days.  I had never known him personally before this trip.  I knew he was on the way; but he traveled usually with his own company, and did not mingle much with the emigrants, as he could not properly do so, his men being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>GO WITH MY FAMILY TO VANCOUVER--INDIAN TRADITION--THE TOWN OF LINNTON. I returned with my family to Fort Vancouver on the 26th of November, 1843; and, as we passed the place of our encampment on the sand-beach below the Cascades, the Canadian boatmen pointed toward it and laughed.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When we arrived at the Cascades on our return voyage, we carried our baggage upon our shoulders three fourths of a mile, when we reloaded and then "jumped" the rapids below.  Until we had passed these rapids on our downward voyage I had no adequate conception of the dangers we had passed through on the voyage from Walla Walla to the Dalles.  During that perilous passage I was one of the oarsmen, and sat with my back to the bow of the boat, thus having no fair opportunity to observe well.  My attention was mainly confined to my own portion of the work, and I had but little time to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>There was then an Indian tradition that about a hundred years before the Cascades did not exist, but that there was a succession of rapids from the Dalles to where the Cascades are now.  The whole volume of the Columbia is now confined to a narrow channel, and falls about thirty feet in the distance of a quarter of a mile.  This tradition said that the river gradually cut under the mountain, until the projecting mass of huge stones and tough clay slid into the river and dammed up the stream to the height of some thirty feet, thus producing slack water to the Dalles.  And I must say that every appearance, to my mind, sustains this view.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Columbia, like most rivers, has a strip of bottom-land covered with timber, on one side or the other; but at the Cascades this bottom-land is very narrow, and has a very different appearance from the bottoms at places on the river above and below.  The mountain on the south side of the river looks precisely as if a vast land-slide had taken place there; and the huge rocks that lift their gray, conical heads above the water at a low stage go to prove that they could not have withstood that terrible current for many centuries.  In the winter, when the water is at its lowest stage, immense masses of thick ice come down over these Cascades, and strike with tremendous force against the rocks; and the consequent wearing away must have been too great for those rocks to have been in that position many centuries.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But there is another fact that seems to me to be almost conclusive.  As we passed up the river, the water was at a very low stage; and yet for some twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>It was the opinion of Governor Fremont that these stumps had been placed in this position by a slide, which took them from their original site into the river.  But I must think that opinion erroneous, because the slide could hardly have been so great in length, and the appearance of the adjacent hills does not indicate an event of that magnitude.  It is much more rational, I think, to suppose that the slide took place at the Cascades, and that the Indian tradition is true.  Another reason is, that the river at the points where these stumps are found is quite wide, showing an increase of width by the backing up of the water over the bottoms.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I procured a room for my family at Vancouver, until I could build a cabin.  General M.M. McCarver and myself had agreed that we would select a town site at the head of ship navigation on the Willamette River.  The General, having no family with him, arrived at the fort some time before I did, and selected a spot on the Willamette, about five miles above its mouth, at what we then supposed to be the head of ship navigation.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I soon found that expenses were certain and income nothing, and determined to select what was then called "a claim," and make me a farm.  I knew very little about farming, though raised upon a farm in Missouri, and had not performed any manual labor of consequence (until I began to prepare for this trip) for about seventeen years.  I had some recollection of farming; but the theory, as practiced in Missouri, would not fully do for Oregon.  Mr. Douglas told me that I could not succeed at farming, as there was a great deal of hard work on a farm.  I replied that, in my opinion, a sensible and determined man could succeed at almost anything, and I meant to do it.  I did succeed well; but I never had my intellect more severely tasked, with a few exceptions.  Those who think good farming not an intellectual business are most grievously mistaken.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>PURCHASE A CLAIM--CLIMATE AND SCENERY OF OREGON--NUMBER OF OUR IMMIGRANTS--ASSISTANCE RENDERED OUR IMMIGRATION. Some time in April, 1844, I went to the Tualatin Plains, and purchased a claim in the middle of a circular plain, about three miles in diameter.  The claim was entirely destitute of timber, except a few ash-trees which grew along the margin of the swales.  The plain was beautiful, and was divided from the plains adjoining by living streams of water flowing from the mountains, the banks of which streams were skirted with fir and white-cedar timber. The surface of this plain was gently undulating, barely sufficient for drainage.  I purchased ten acres of splendid fir timber, distant about a mile and a half, for twenty-five dollars.  This supply proved ample for a farm of about two hundred and fifty acres.</P>
055.sgm:<P>These swales are peculiar winter drains, from ten to thirty yards wide, and from one to two feet deep.  In the winter they are filled with slowly running water; but in summer they are dry, and their flat bottoms become almost as hard as a brick.  No vegetation of consequence will grow in these swales; and the only timber along their margins is scattering ash, from six to eight inches in diameter and from twenty to twenty-five feet high, with wide, bushy tops.  The land on both sides of these swales being clean prairie, the rows of green ash in summer give the plain a beautiful appearance.</P>
055.sgm:<P>During the five years I remained in Oregon, the rainy season invariably set in between the 18th of October and the 1st of November, and continued until about the middle of April, with occasional showers to July.  In 1845 there were showers in August sufficient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>But during most of the rainy season the rains are almost continuous.  Sometimes the sun would not be seen for twenty days in succession.  It would generally rain about three days and nights without intermission, then cease for about the same period (still remaining cloudy), and then begin again.  These rains were not very heavy, but cold and steady, accompanied with a brisk, driving wind from the south.  It required a very stout, determined man to ride all day facing one of these rains.  They were far worse than driving snow, as they wet and chilled the rider through.  The summers, the latter half of the spring, and the early half of the fall, were the finest in the world, so far as my own experience extends.  Though the rainy seasons be long and tedious, they are, upon the whole, a blessing.  The copious rains fertilize the soil of the fields, and keep them always fresh and productive.  In my own best <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>When we arrived in Oregon, we more than doubled the resident civilized population of the country.  J. W. Nesmith, our orderly sergeant, made a complete roll of the male members of the company capable of bearing arms, including all above the age of sixteen years.  This roll he preserved and produced at the Oregon Pioneers' Celebration in June, 1875.  I have inspected this roll as published in "The Oregonian," and find it correct, except in the omission of the name of P. B. Reading, who went to California, and including the name of A. L. Lovejoy, who came the year before.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This roll contained 293 names, 267 of whom arrived in Oregon.  Of the 26 missing, 6 died on the way, 5 turned back on Platte River, and 15 went to California.  He also gives the names of many of the resident male population, and estimates their number at 157.  John M. Shively<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
055.sgm: made a complete list of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
055.sgm: the emigrants at the crossing of Kansas River, but that list has unfortunately been lost.  Judge M. P. Deady, in his address before the Oregon Pioneers in June, 1875, estimated the immigration of 1843, men, women, and children, at nine hundred.  My own estimate would not be so high.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">John M. Shively is an engineer, and a plain, unassuming man, but possessed of much greater genuine ability than most people supposed.  Justice has never been done him.  He was in Washington City in the winter of 1845-'46, and was the originator of the project of a steamship line from New York to this coast by way of Panama.</NOTE>
055.sgm:<P>When we arrived in Oregon we were poor, and our teams were so much reduced as to be unfit for service until the next spring. Those of us who came by water from Walla Walla left our cattle there for the winter; and those who came by water from the Dalles left their cattle for the winter at that point.  Even if our teams had been fit for use when we arrived, they would have been of no benefit to us, as we could not bring them to the Willamette Valley until the spring of 1844.  Pork was ten and flour four cents a pound, and other provisions in proportion.  These were high prices considering our scanty means and extra appetites.  Had it not been for the generous kindness of the gentlemen in charge of the business of the Hudson's Bay Company, we should have suffered much greater privations.  The Company furnished many of our immigrants with provisions, clothing, seed, and other necessaries on credit.  This was done, in many instances, where the purchasers were known to be of doubtful credit.  At that time the Company had most of the provisions and merchandise in the country; and the trade with our people was, upon the whole, a decided loss, so many failing to pay for what they had purchased.  Many of our immigrants were unworthy of the favors they received, and only returned abuse for generosity.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I remember an example, related to me by Captain James Waters, an excellent man, possessed of a kind heart, a truthful tongue, and a very patient disposition.  As before stated, most of our immigrants passed from the Dalles to the Cascades on rafts made of dry logs.  This was not only slow navigation, but their rafts were utterly useless after reaching the Cascades; and they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>DR. JOHN MCLOUGHLIN--JAMES DOUGLAS--POLICY OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY IN ITS INTERCOURSE WITH THE INDIANS. Dr. John McLoughlin was one of the greatest and most noble philanthropists I ever knew.  He was a man of superior ability, just in all his dealings, and a faithful Christian.  I never knew a man of the world who was more admirable.  I never heard him utter a vicious sentiment, or applaud a wrongful act.  His views and acts were formed upon the model of the Christian gentleman.  He was a superior business man, and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In his position of chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company he had grievous responsibilities imposed upon him.  He stood between the <HI REND="italics">absent</HI>
055.sgm: directors and stock-holders of the Company and the  present suffering immigrants.  He witnessed their sufferings; they did not.  He was unjustly blamed by many of both parties.  It was not the business of the Company to deal upon credit; and the manager of its affairs in Oregon was suddenly thrown into a new and very embarrassing position.  How to act, so as to secure the approbation of the directors and stockholders in England, and at the same time not to disregard the most urgent calls of humanity, was indeed the great difficulty.  No <HI REND="italics">possible</HI>
055.sgm:<P>To be placed in such a position was a misfortune which only a good man could bear in patience.  I was assured by Mr. Frank Ermatinger, the manager of the Company's store at Oregon City, as well as by others, that Dr. McLoughlin had sustained a heavy individual loss by his charity to the immigrants.  I knew enough myself to be certain that these statements were substantially true.  Yet such was the humility of the Doctor that he never, to my knowledge, mentioned or alluded to any particular act of charity performed by him.  I was intimate with him, and he never mentioned them to me.  When I first saw him in 1843, his hair was white. He had then been in Oregon about twenty years.  He was a large, noble-looking old man, of commanding figure and countenance.  His manners were courteous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Mr. James Douglas (subsequently Sir James, and Governor of British Columbia) was a younger man than Dr. McLoughlin by some fifteen years.  He was a man of very superior intelligence, and a finished Christian gentleman.  His course toward us was noble, prudent, and generous.  I do not think that at that time he possessed the knowledge of men that the Doctor did, nor was he so great a philanthropist.  I regarded him as a just and able man, with a conscience and character above reproach.  In his position of Governor of British Columbia, he was censured by Mr. John Nugent of California, as I must think, without sufficient reason.  Errors of judgment Governor Douglas may have committed, as almost any man would have done at time in his trying position; but he must have radically changed since I knew him, if he knowingly acted improperly.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It was most fortunate for us that two such noble men were managers of the Company at the time of our arrival.  Our own countrymen had it not in their power to aid us efficiently.  Many of them were immigrants of the preceding season; others were connected with the missions; and, altogether, they were too few and poor to help us much.  The Company could not afford to extend to succeeding immigrations the same credit they did to us.  The burden would have been too great.  This refusal led many to complain, but without sufficient reason.</P>
055.sgm:<P>From Dr. McLoughlin and others I learned a great deal in reference to the manner in which the business of the Company had been conducted. At the time of the Doctor's arrival in Oregon, and for many years afterward, the principal inhabitants were Indians, divided <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:into various small tribes, speaking different languages.  These Indians were mainly found upon the Columbia and its tributaries, and far outnumbered the hired servants of the Company.  The task of controlling these wild people was one of great delicacy, requiring a thorough knowledge of human nature and the greatest administrative ability.  The Doctor's policy was based upon the fundamental idea that all men, civilized or savage, have an innate love of justice, and will therefore be <HI REND="italics">ultimately</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The Company had its various trading-posts located at convenient points throughout a vast territory.  The Indian population being about stationary as to numbers and pursuits, it was not very difficult to calculate the amount of supplies likely to be required in each year.  The Company was in the habit of importing one year's supply in advance; so that if a cargo should be lost, its customers would not suffer.  Its goods were all of superior quality, purchased on the best terms, and were sold at prices both uniform and moderate.  Of course, prices in the interior were higher than on the seaboard; but they never varied at the same post.  The Indians knew nothing of the intricate law of demand and supply, and could not be made to understand why an article of a given size and quality should be worth more at one time than at another in the same place, while the material and labor used and employed in its manufacture were the same.  A tariff of prices, once adopted, was never changed.  The goods were not only of the best, but of uniform quality.  To secure these results the Company had most of its goods manufactured to order.  The wants of the Indians being very few, their purchases were confined to a small variety of articles; and consequently they became the very best judges of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>It was evident that no successful competition with the Company could last long under such circumstances.  No one could continue to undersell them and make a profit; and the competitor, without profit, must fail.  The uniform low prices and the good quality of its articles pleased the Indians, and the Company secured their custom beyond the reach of competition.  The Company adopted a system that would work out best in the end, and, of course, was successful.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the course of time the Company induced the Indians to throw aside the bow and arrow, and to use the gun; and, as the Company had all the guns and ammunition in the country, the Indians became dependent upon it for their supplies of these articles.  It was the great object of the Company to preserve the peace among the Indians within the limits of its trading territory, not only from motives of pure humanity, but from mercantile interest; as the destruction of the Indians was the destruction of its customers, and the consequent ruin of its trade.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When the Indians went to war with each other, the Doctor first interposed his mediation, as the common friend and equal of both parties.  When all other means failed, he refused to sell them arms and ammunition, saying that it was the business of the Company to sell them these articles to kill game with, not to kill each other.  By kindness, justice, and discreet firmness, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>But the task of protecting the servants of the Company against the attacks of the Indians was one of still greater difficulty.  The Doctor impressed the Indians with the fact that the Company was simply a mercantile corporation, whose purpose was only trade with the natives; that its intention was only to appropriate to its exclusive use a few sites for its trading-posts and small parcels of adjacent lands, sufficient to produce supplies for its people; thus leaving all the remainder of the country for the use and in the exclusive possession of the Indians; and that this possession of limited amounts of land by the Company would be mutually beneficial.  Even savages have the native good sense to discover the mutual benefits of trade.  The Indians wanted a market for their furs, and the Company customers for its merchandise.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It was an inflexible rule with the Doctor never to violate his word, whether it was a promise of reward or a threat of punishment.  There is no vice more detested by Indians than a failure to keep one's word, which they call lying.  If it were a failure to perform a promised act beneficial to the Indians themselves, they would regard it as a fraud akin to theft; and, if a failure to carry out a threat of punishment, they would consider it the result of weakness or cowardice.  In either case, the party who broke his pledged word would forfeit their respect, and in the first case would incur their undying resentment.</P>
055.sgm:<P>To guard against the natural jealousy of the Indians, and insure peace between them and the servants of the Company, it became necessary to adopt and enforce the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:most rigid discipline among the latter.  This discipline was founded upon the great principle that, to avoid difficulty with others, we must first do right ourselves.  To make this discipline the more efficient, the Doctor adopted such measures as substantially to exclude all intoxicating liquors from the country.  When a crime was committed by an Indian, the Doctor made it a rule not to hold the <HI REND="italics">whole</HI>
055.sgm:<P>In this manner the Doctor secured and kept the confidence of the Indians.  When he first arrived in Oregon, and for some time thereafter, whenever boats were sent up the Columbia with supplies, a guard of sixty armed men was required; but, in due time, only the men necessary to propel the boats were needed.  The Indians at the different portages were employed and paid by the Company to assist in making them.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Indians soon saw that the Company was a mere trading establishment, confined to a small space of land at each post, and was, in point of fact, advantageous to themselves.  The few Canadian-French who were located in the Willamette Valley were mostly, if not entirely, connected by marriage with the Indians, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:Frenchmen having Indian wives, and were considered to some extent as a part of their own people.  But, when we, the American immigrants, came into what the Indians claimed as their own country, we were considerable in numbers; and we came, not to establish trade with the Indians, but to take and settle the country <HI REND="italics">exclusively</HI>
055.sgm:<P>As illustrative of the difficulties of Dr. McLoughlin's position, I will state the facts of a few cases, as they were related to me substantially by the Doctor himself.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The shore of the Columbia River in front of Fort Vancouver was covered with cobble-stones, which were used by the Company as ballast for its returning ships.  The principal chief of the Indians concluded that the Company ought to pay something for these stones; and one day, in the presence of a large crowd of his people (assembled, perhaps, for that purpose), he demanded payment of the Doctor.  Of course, the Doctor was taken by surprise, but at once comprehended the situation.  He knew, if he consented to pay in this case, there would be no end to exactions in the future.  How best to avoid the payment without giving offense was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>While the Company's ships lay at anchor in the river opposite the fort, the Doctor occasionally granted a written permit to some particular Indian to visit the ships.  On one occasion he granted such a permit to an Indian who was seen by other Indians to go on board, but was not seen by them to return, though, in fact, he did so return.  Within a day or two thereafter, the brother of this Indian, being unable to find him, and suspecting that he had been enticed on board the ship, and either murdered or forcibly imprisoned for the purpose of abduction, applied to the Doctor for a permit to visit the ship.  As the Indian concealed his reason for asking the permit, the Doctor supposed he was influenced by an idle curiosity, and refused the request.  The Indian returned again for the same purpose, and was again refused.  He came the third time, with the same result.  He then concluded that his brother must either be imprisoned on the ship, or had been murdered; and he at once resolved upon revenge.  In the evening of the same day, about an hour before sunset, a shot was heard; and the gardener came running into the fort in great terror, with a bullet-hole through the top of his hat, saying that an Indian had fired upon him from behind the garden-fence.  The gates of the fort were at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>On one occasion the Indians determined to take and sack Fort Vancouver.  The plot for this purpose was conceived, and in part executed, with consummate ability.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Two of their most powerful chiefs quietly went from Fort Vancouver to Nesqualy, a trading-post on Puget's Sound, and remained there several days.  While there, they made themselves minutely acquainted with everything about the fort.  They then speedily returned to Fort Vancouver, and at once sought and obtained an interview with Dr. McLoughlin and his associates.  One of the Indians was the speaker, while the other carefully watched to see what impression their statements would make.  The Company's interpreter, a very shrewd Canadian, was present during the interview.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Indians stated that they left Nesqualy at a certain time, which was true; and that the Indians in that vicinity had attacked and captured the fort by surprise, and had slaughtered all the inhabitants, amounting to a certain number of persons, which number they specified truly.  The Indians were subjected to a severe cross-examination without betraying the slightest embarassment, and without making any contradictory statements.  When asked how many persons were in the fort at the time, what were their several ages, sexes, appearances, employments, and the position that each occupied in the fort, they invariably gave the correct <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The object of these Indians was to induce the Company to send nearly all its men to Nesqualy to punish the alleged murderers, thus reducing the force at Fort Vancouver to such an extent that it could be readily taken.  These Indians knew, from the invariable  practice of the Company, that such a crime, if committed, would not escape punishment if practicable.  If they could only make the Doctor believe their narrative, he would at once dispatch an ample force to Nesqualy.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The traders in charge of interior trading-posts were often exposed to peril from the Indians.  The Company could only keep a few men at each post, and the Indians at times would become discontented.  A rude people, depending entirely upon the spontaneous productions of nature for a supply of provisions, must often suffer extreme want.  In such a case men become desperate, and are easily excited to rash acts.  Mr. McKinley told me that the Indians on one occasion attempted to rob Fort Walla Walla, and were only prevented by the most cool, intrepid courage of the people of the post.</P>
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055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.<LB>ROCKY MOUNTAIN TRAPPERS--THEIR PECULIAR CHARACTER--BLACK HARRIS--JOSEPH L. MEEK--O. RUSSELL--ROBERT NEWELL.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>WHEN we arrived in Oregon, we found there a number of Rocky Mountain hunters and trappers, who were settled in the Willamette Valley, most of them in the Tualatin Plains.  The invention of the silk hat had rendered the trapping of beaver less profitable.  Besides, most of these men had married Indian women, and desired to settle down for life.  They had been too long accustomed to frontier life to return to their old homes.  Oregon offered them the best prospects for the future.  Here was plenty of land for nothing, and a fine climate.</P>
055.sgm:<P>These trappers and hunters constituted a very peculiar class of men.  They were kind and genial, brave and hospitable, and in regard to serious matters truthful and honest.  There was no malice in them.  They never made mischief between neighbor and neighbor.  But most of them were given to exaggeration when relating their Rocky Mountain adventures.  They seemed to claim the privilege of romance and fable when describing these scenes.  As exceptions to this rule, I will mention Judge O. Russell, now living in El Dorado County, California, and Robert Newell, now deceased.  Their statements could be relied upon implicitly.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>Having been so long accustomed to the idle life of the Rocky Mountains, they were not at first pleased with the hard work and drudgery of farming.  Meek told me that soon after their arrival in Oregon they applied to Dr. McLoughlin to purchase supplies on credit.  This application the Doctor refused.  They still urged their request most persistently, and finally asked the Doctor what they should do.  He replied in a loud voice: "Go to work!  go to work!  go to work!"  Meek said that was just the thing they did not wish to do.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The romancing Rocky Mountain trapper would exercise his inventive talent to its utmost extent in telling the most extraordinary stories of what he claimed he had seen, and he that could form the most extravagant fiction with a spice of plausibility in it was considered the greatest wit among them.  The love of fame is inherent in the breast of man; and the first man in a village is just as proud of his position as the first man in a city or in an empire.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I knew in Missouri the celebrated Black Harris, as he was familiarly called, and was frequently in his company.  He, perhaps, invented the most extraordinary story of them all, and thenceforward he had no rival.  He said that on one occasion he was hunting in the Rocky Mountains alone, and came in sight of what he supposed to be a beautiful grove of green timber; but, when he approached, he found it to be a petrified forest; and <HI REND="italics">so sudden</HI>
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055.sgm:<P>From these Rocky Mountain trappers I learned something in regard to that interesting animal, the beaver.  Many persons suppose, from the fact that the beaver is always found along the streams, that he lives, like the otter, on fish.  This is a mistake.  The beaver lives entirely upon vegetable food, and for this reason its flesh is esteemed a great delicacy.  The animal feeds mainly upon the bark of the willow-tree, which grows in abundance along the rich, moist margins of the streams, and is a very soft wood, easily cut by the beaver with his large, sharp teeth.  In countries where the streams freeze over in winter, the beaver makes his dam across the stream, of mud and brush so intermixed as to make the structure safe and solid.  In this work he uses his fore-paws, not his tail, as some have supposed.  The tail is used as a propelling and steering power in swimming.  The object in damming the stream is to deepen the water so that it will not freeze to the bottom, but leave plenty of room below the ice for the storage of the winter's supply of food.  In summer the beaver cuts down the green willows, and divides them into logs of proper length, so that can be readily moved.  These logs are deposited at the bottom of the pond, and kept down by mud placed upon them.  The willow in its green state is almost as heavy as water, and these logs are easily sunk and confined to the bottom.  On one portion of his dam the beaver constructs his house above the water, with an entrance from beneath.  This gives him a warm home and safe retreat in winter.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The mode of trapping the beaver is peculiar. The trap itself is never baited  The animal has in his body a secretion something like musk.  The trapper finds out the home of the beaver, and selects a place on the side of the pond where the water is shallow near the shore; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The beaver is easily tamed, and makes a very docile and interesting pet.  He is remarkably neat and cleanly in his habits, as much so as the domestic cat, and almost as much so as the ermine, which never permits its snow-white covering to be soiled.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I am not aware that any wild animal, except the glutton, ever preys upon the beaver or otter.  Their terrible teeth are most formidable weapons, and few wild animals would venture to attack them.  Besides, they are covered with a large, loose skin and thick fur, so that the teeth of another animal can hardly reach a vital part.  It is a well-known fact that one otter will vanquish a number of large, brave dogs.  Every bite of the otter leaves a large gash, like that made by the huge tusks of the wild boar.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Among the most noted of these trappers was my neighbor and friend, Joseph L. Meek, whose life has been written by Mrs. Victor, of Oregon.  Meek was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>His comrades told a story upon him, which he admitted to me was true.  A party of them, while in the Rocky Mountains, were one day stopping to rest, when they saw a band of hostile Indians mounted and charging down upon them, at the distance of a few hundred yards.  Meek and his comrades mounted their animals in the hottest haste; but the fine mule Meek was riding became sullen and would not budge.  Meek screamed out, at the top of his voice: "Boys, stand your ground!  We can whip 'em.  Stand your ground, boys!"  But his comrades were of a different opinion, and were fleeing from the Indians as fast as possible.  However, as the Indians approached, Meek's mule began to comprehend the situation, changed its mind, and set off at its utmost speed in pursuit of its companions.  In a short time Meek and his mule were alongside of the fleeing hunters; and very soon Meek passed them, whipping his mule, and crying out most lustily: "Come on, boys! We can't fight 'em!  Come on, boys! come on!"</P>
055.sgm:<P>I remember a story Meek told to myself and four others, as we were returning from Oregon City to our homes in the Tualatin Plains.  He said that on one occasion he was out hunting by himself, some four hundred miles from Brown's Cove, in the Rocky Mountains, where his company were staying, and that one night his horse escaped, leaving him afoot.  He started on foot, with his rifle on his shoulder; but the first day he lost the lock of his gun, so that he could kill no game.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I replied:  "That was a most extraordinary adventure, Joe; and, while I don't pretend to question your veracity in the least, don't you really think you might safely fall a snake or two in the distance?"  He declared it was four hundred miles.  "But," said I, "may you not be mistaken in the time?"  He insisted he was only eight days in making the trip on foot.  "But, Joe," I continued, "don't you think you may be mistaken as to the time in this way?  When you had those attacks of blindness, fell down, and then came to again, don't you think you might have mistaken it for a new day?"  He said he was not mistaken.  "Then," said I, "this thing of walking four hundred miles in eight days, with nothing at all to eat, and being physicked into the bargain, is the most extraordinary feat ever performed by man."  He said no man could tell how much he could stand until he was forced to try; and that men were so healthy in the Rocky Mountains, and so used to hard times, that they could perform wonders.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Meek was a droll creature, and at times very slovenly in his dress.  One day in summer I called for him, sitting on my horse at his yard-fence.  He came to the door and put his head out, but would not come to the fence, because his pantaloons were so torn and ragged.  He was then sheriff; and at the next term of our Circuit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:Court I drew up a fictitious indictment against him, charging him with notorious public indecency; had it endorsed on the back: "People of Oregon <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
055.sgm:<P>On one occasion he came to my house, wearing one of the most splendid new white figured-silk vests that I had ever seen, while the remainder of his dress was exceedingly shabby.  He was like a man dressed in a magnificent ruffled shirt, broadcloth coat, vest, and pantaloons, and going barefoot.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The second or third year after my arrival in Oregon, and in the month of October, before the rainy season set in, I was about to start to Oregon City with a load of wheat, to secure a winter's supply of flour, when Meek asked me to let him put ten bushels in the wagon, and he would go with me.  I said all right--that I would be at his place the next morning early, with my wagon and team, and for him to have his wheat ready.  He promised he would.  According to my promise, I was at his house by eight next morning; but Meek had to run his wheat through the fan, and put it into the sacks.  The result was that I had to help him; and it was ten by the time we were loaded up.  In a great hurry, I asked him if he had anything to eat, as I only had some bread in the wagon, the only thing I could bring.  I saw he was rather embarrassed, and said, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>On the way Meek rode ahead of me, and overtook Mr. Pomeroy, going to Oregon City with a wagon loaded with fresh beef.  Meek, in a good-humored, bantering way said, "Pomeroy, I have an execution against you, and I can not let you take that beef out of this county."  Pomeroy, with equal good humor, replied, "Meek, it is a hard case to stop a man on the way to market, where he can sell his beef, and get the money to pay his debts."  "Well," said Meek, it does look a little hard, but I propose a compromise.  Burnett and I will have nothing to eat to-night but bread and squashes.  Now, if you will let us have beef enough for supper and breakfast, I will let you off."  Pomeroy laughed and told Meek to help himself.  When we encamped about sundown, some eight miles from the city, Meek did help himself to some choice ribs of beef, and we had a feast.  I had had nothing to eat since the morning of that day but bread; and I was hungry after my hard drive.  I roasted the squashes, and Meek the beef; and we had a splendid supper.  I found this beef almost equal to buffalo-meat.  We both ate too much, and Meek complained that his supper had given him "the rotten belches."</P>
055.sgm:<P>I have already mentioned the name of Judge O. Russell as one of the Rocky Mountain men.  He is a native of the State of Maine, and came to the mountains when a young man, in pursuit of health.  All his comrades agreed that he never lost his virtuous habits, but always remained true to his principles.  He was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>When in Oregon, he was occasionally a guest at my house, and would for hours together entertain us with descriptions of mountain life and scenery.  His descriptive powers were fine, and he would talk until a late hour at night.  My whole family were deeply attentive, and my children yet remember the Judge with great pleasure.  He was always a most welcome guest at my house.  He did not tell so many extraordinary stories as the average Rocky Mountain trapper and hunter; but those he did tell were true.  I remember one instance.</P>
055.sgm:<P>He said that he and a colored man were out hunting together on one occasion, and wounded a large grizzly bear.  A grizzly bear, when wounded, will rush upon the hunter if near him; but, if at a distance from the hunter, the animal will retire into thick brush, and there conceal himself as well as possible.  In this case, the bear had crept into a small but thick patch of willows, and so concealed himself that the hunters had to approach very near before they could obtain a shot.  The Judge and his comrade, with loaded and cocked rifles in hand, separately approached, on different sides, almost to the edge of the thicket, when the grizzly, with a loud, ferocious cry, suddenly sprang to his feet and rushed toward the Judge, and, when within a few feet of him, reared upon his hind legs, with his ears thrown back, his terrible jaws distended, and his eyes gleaming with rage.  The Judge said he knew that to retreat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Robert Newell was a native of the State of Ohio, and came to the Rocky Mountains when a young man.  He was of medium height, stout frame, and fine face.  He was full of humanity, good will, genial feeling, and frankness.  He possessed a remarkable memory; and, though slow of speech, his narrations were most interesting.  In his slow, hesitating manner, he would state every minute circumstance in its own proper place; and the hearer was most amply compensated in the end for his time and patience.  I knew him well, and have often listened to his simple and graphic description of incidents that came under his own observation while he was in the service of the Missouri Fur Company.  I remember a very interesting narration which I heard from him.  I can only give the substance.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The hired men of the Company were mostly employed in trapping beaver and otter.  A war grew up between the whites and Indians, as usual.  It was not desirable to the Company, and its manager made efforts to secure peace.  For this purpose he consulted with Newell, and asked him if he would be willing to go as a commissioner to the Crow Indians to treat for peace.  Newell consented, upon condition that he should only take with him an interpreter and a cook.</P>
055.sgm:<P>With these two men Newell boldly made his way to the Crow camp.  The Indian chiefs assembled in the council-lodge, and the orator on the part of the tribe brought in a bundle of small sticks.  He commenced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Newell said that, while this process was going on, he felt himself almost overwhelmed.  He could not make a detailed statement of wrongs committed by the Indians against the whites sufficient to balance this most formidable account.  He had not prepared himself with a mass of charges and a bundle of sticks to refresh his memory.  In this emergency he determined to take a bold, frank position, and come directly to the point by a short and comprehensive method.  When it came to his turn to speak, he told the council that he was sent as the mere agent of the Company, and was not authorized to enter into any stipulation for payment to either party; that he did not come to count over the wrongs committed in the past; that both parties had done wrong often, and it was difficult to say which party had been oftenest or most to blame; that he came to bury the past and stipulate for peace in the future, and wished to know of them whether they would mutually agree to be friends for the time to come.  This was the best possible ground to be taken, and so pleased the assembled chiefs that they entered into a treaty of peace.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But a very short time after this treaty was made, and before Newell and his two men had left, a sad accident occurred that wellnigh cost Newell his life.  One night, before bedtime, the cook had hung a small kettle above the fire in Newell's lodge, and had pretty well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The principal chief at once summoned a council to consider the case.  The chiefs met in the council-lodge, while the people, including men, women, and children, squatted in front of the door leaving a narrow passage for the prisoner, with his interpreter, to enter the lodge.  Newell said that as they passed through this enraged mass of people they exhibited the utmost hatred against him, especially the women, who manifested their intense animosity in every way, by word and gesture.  In passing by them, they would lean away and shrink from him, as if his touch was pollution itself.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When he entered the dimly lighted council-lodge, all was grim and profound silence.  Not a word was spoken, nor a move made, for some time.  Then one of the chiefs commenced howling like a large wolf, the imitation being almost perfect.  After he had ceased, there was again profound silence for some moments; and then another chief successfully imitated the fierce <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The head chief was an old man, of superior native intellect, and, though uneducated, he understood human nature.  He seemed to comprehend the case well.  He could see no malicious motive for the act.  He told Newell to state the facts to the council truly, and he thought there might be some hope for him.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Newell, through his interpreter, stated to them all the facts as they occurred; and this just statement and Newell's honest and manly face and frank manner had a great effect upon the principal members of the council.  It was also found that the poor Indian had not been so severely hurt as at first supposed, and that his sight was not totally destroyed.  The council sat nearly all night, and then decided to postpone the case until time should show the extent of the injury.  In the mean time Newell and his companions were not allowed to depart, but were to be detained until the case should be finally decided.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But another painful incident soon occurred, that seriously imperiled their lives.</P>
055.sgm:<P>One day an Indian horseman was seen approaching the camp rapidly; and, when within some hundred yards, he dismounted, rolled up his buffalo-robe, took hold of one end of the roll, and slowly and solemnly swung it around his head several times; then he folded it up, and sat upon it, and brought both his open hands slowly down his face several times in succession.  The Indians in camp at once understood the sad significance of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Newell said that he had never witnessed such a scene of sorrow as this.  The women and children filled the camp with their loud wailings and bitter lamentations; and despair sat upon the countenances of the men.  The Indians were now more fiercely hostile than ever, because they believed that this terrible scourge, far worse to them than war itself, had been introduced by the trappers.  They knew that this fell disease was never heard of in their country until white men appeared among them.  They thronged around Newell and his comrades, and it seemed that they would slaughter them outright.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But the old chief was equal to the occasion.  He at once mounted his horse and rode through the camp, saying to all that it was useless to weep and lament, and ordering the people to pack up at once and be off for the Wind River Mountain.  This order was instantly obeyed; the cries and lamentations at once ceased; and Newell said he never saw lodges so quickly taken down and packed up as he did on this occasion.  In less than one hour the whole camp was on the march to the place mentioned.  In due time they arrived safely at the Wind River Mountain, where the sky was clear, the climate cool and healthy, and game abundant.  It being in midsummer, the deer had followed up the melting snows to crop the fresh grass as soon as it sprang up just below the snow-line, and to be in a cool atmosphere, where the flies would not torment them.  Here the Indians recovered from their alarm and excitement.  Not a case of small-pox appeared in camp.  All were healthy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>THE PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT. Soon after my arrival at Linnton, I was consulted as to the right of the people of Oregon to organize a provisional government.  At first I gave my opinion against it, thinking we had no such right; but a few weeks' reflection satisfied me that we had such right, and that necessity required us to exercise it.  Communities, as well as individuals, have the natural right of self-defense; and it is upon this ground that the right to institute governments among men must ultimately rest.  This right of self-preservation is bestowed upon man by his Creator.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We found ourselves placed in a new and very embarrassing position.  The right of sovereignty over the country was in dispute between the United States and Great Britain, and neither country could establish any government over us.  Our community was composed of American citizens and British subjects, occupying the same country as neighbors, with all their respective national prejudices and attachments, and so distant from the mother-countries as to be a great extent beyond the reach of home influences.  We had, therefore, a difficult population to govern; but this fact only rendered government the more necessary.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We also found, by actual experiment, that some political government was a <HI REND="italics">necessity</HI>
055.sgm:.  Though political government be imperfect, it is still a blessing, and necessary for the preservation of the race.  Without it, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>As we could not, with any exact certainty, anticipate the time when the conflicting claims of the two contending governments would be settled, we determined to organize a provisional government for ourselves.  In this undertaking our British neighbors ultimately joined us with good will, and did their part most faithfully, as did our American citizens.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I was a member of the "Legislative Committee of Oregon" of 1844.  It was composed of nine members elected by the people, and consisted of only one House.  The year before, the people of Oregon had substantially organized a provisional government; but the organization was imperfect, as is necessarily the case in the beginning of all human institutions.  We improved upon their labors, and our successors improved upon ours.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Our Legislative Committee held two sessions, one in June and the other in December of that year, each session lasting only a few days.  In our then condition, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:had but little time to devote to public business.  Our personal needs were too urgent, and our time too much occupied in making a support for our families.  Our legislation, however, was ample for the time.  There was then no printing establishment in Oregon.  We passed an act in relation to land claims, the first section of which provided that "all persons who have heretofore made, or shall hereafter make permanent improvements upon a place, with a <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
055.sgm: intention of occupying and holding the same for himself, and shall continue to occupy and cultivate the same, shall be entitled to hold six hundred and forty acres, and shall hold only one claim at the same time; <HI REND="italics">provided</HI>
055.sgm:<P>By an act passed June 27, 1844, the executive power was vested in a single person, to be elected at the then next annual election by the people, and at the annual election to be held every two years thereafter, to hold his office for the term of two years, and receive an annual salary of three hundred dollars.  By the same act the judicial power was vested in the circuit courts and in justices of the peace; and the act provided that one judge should be elected by the qualified voters at the annual election, who should hold his office for one year, and whose duty it was to hold two terms of the Circuit Court in each county every year; and for his services he should receive an annual salary of five hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The first section of the third article of the same act was as follows:</P>
055.sgm:<P>SECTION 1.  All the statute laws of Iowa Territory passed at the first session of the Legislative Assembly of said Territory, and not of a local character, and not incompatible with the condition and circumstances of this country, shall be the law of this government, unless otherwise modified; and the common law of England and principles of equity, not modified by the statutes of Iowa or of this government, and not incompatible with its principles, shall constitute a part of the law of this land.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Article V. was in these words:</P>
055.sgm:<P>SECTION 1.  All officers shall be elected by the people once a year, unless otherwise provided, at a general election to be held in each county on the first Tuesday in June in each year, at such places as shall be designated by the Judge of the Circuit Court.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  As many justices of the peace and constables shall be elected from time to time as shall be deemed necessary by the Circuit Court of each county.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The seventh article fixed the time of holding the terms of the circuit courts in the several counties, and gave the judge the power to designate the several places of holding said terms by giving one month's notice thereof.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We also passed on June 24th an act consisting of eight sections, prohibiting the importation, distillation, sale, and barter of ardent spirits.  For every sale or barter the offender was to pay a fine of twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On June 22d an act containing twenty-six sections was passed concerning roads and highways.  On December 24th an act was passed allowing the voters of Oregon at the annual election of 1845 to give their votes for or against the call of a convention.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The following act in relation to Indians was passed December 23d:<LB><HI REND="italics">Whereas</HI>
055.sgm:, The Indians inhabiting this country are rapidly diminishing, being now mere remnants of once powerful tribes, now disorganized, without government, and so situated that no treaty can be regularly made with them;<LB><HI REND="italics">And whereas</HI>
055.sgm:, By an act passed in July, 1843, this government has shown its humane policy to protect the Indians in their rights;<LB><HI REND="italics">And whereas</HI>
055.sgm:, The Indians are not engaged in agriculture, and have no use for or right to any tracts, portions, or parcels of land, not actually occupied or used by them; therefore,<LB><HI REND="italics">Be it enacted by the Legislative Committee of Oregon as follows</HI>
055.sgm:<P>SECTION 1.  That the Indians shall be protected in the free use of such pieces of vacant land as they occupy with their villages or other improvements, and such fisheries as they have heretofore used.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  That the executive power be required to see that the laws in regard to Indians be faithfully executed; and that whenever the laws shall be violated, the said Executive shall be empowered to bring suit in the name of Oregon against such wrong-doer in the courts of the country.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>An act was passed on June 27th fixing the number of members of the next House of Representatives at thirteen, and apportioning the representation among the then five counties of Oregon.</P>
055.sgm:<P>All necessary local bills were passed, and our little government was put into practical and successful operation.  Having adopted the general statutes of Iowa and the common law, we had a provision for every case likely to arise in so small a community.</P>
055.sgm:<P>At first, the great difficulty was to make our little government efficient.  Our people honestly differed very much in their views as to our right to institute government.  In 1843 there were fifty-two affirmative and fifty negative votes.  There were so many of our people who were conscientiously opposed to the organization of any government that we found it a delicate matter to use force against men whose motives we were sure were good.  Still, government had to be practically enforced.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Joseph L. Meek was selected in May or July, 1843, for sheriff.  He was the very man for the position.  He was both as brave and as magnanimous as the lion.  Do his duty he would, peacefully if possible, but forcibly if he must.  If we had selected a timid or rash man for sheriff, we must have failed for a time.  To be a government at all, the laws must be enforced.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Meek soon had his courage fully tested.  A stout carpenter named Dawson was engaged in a fight in the winter of 1843-'44, and a warrant was at once issued for his arrest, and placed in Meek's hands to be executed.  Dawson was no doubt of opinion that we had no right to organize and enforce our government.  Meek went to Dawson's shop, where he was at work at his bench with a jack-plane.  Meek walked in, and said laughingly, "Dawson, I came for you."  Dawson <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:replied that Meek had come for the wrong man.  Meek, still laughing, said again, "I came for you," and was about to lay his hands on Dawson, when the latter drew back with his jack-plane raised to strike.  But Meek was not only stout, but active and brave; and, seizing the plane, he wrested it by force from Dawson.  Dawson at once turned around and picked up his broad-axe; but the moment he faced Meek, he found a cocked pistol at his breast.  Meek, still laughing, said; "Dawson, I came for you.  Surrender or die!"  Very few men will persist under such circumstances; and Dawson, though as brave as most men, began to cry, threw down his broad-axe, and went with Meek without further objection.  Dawson declared that, as <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
055.sgm:<P>This intrepid performance of his official duty so established Meek's character for true courage in the exercise of his office that he had little or no trouble in the future; and the authority of our little government was thus thoroughly established.</P>
055.sgm:<P>CONDITION OF THE PEOPLE--HARDSHIPS ENDURED BY THE EARLY SETTLERS. We were a small, thinly-settled community, poor, and isolated from the civilized world.  By the time we reached the distant shores of the Pacific, after a slow, wearisome journey of about two thousand miles, our little means were exhausted, and we had to begin life anew, in a new country.  The wild game in Oregon was scarce and poor.  The few deer that are found there seldom become fat.  The wild fowl were plentiful in the winter, but they constituted an uncertain reliance for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>For the first two years after our arrival the great difficulty was to procure provisions.  The population being so much increased by each succeeding fall's immigration, provisions were necessarily scarce.  Those who had been there for two years had plenty to eat; but after that the great trouble was to procure clothing, there being no raw materials in the country from which domestic manufactures could be made.  We had no wool, cotton, or flax.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But, after we had grown wheat and raised pork for sale, we had new difficulties in our way.  Our friends were arriving each fall, with jaded teams, just about the time the long rainy season set in.  The community was divided into two classes, old settlers and new, whose views and interests clashed very much.  Many of the new immigrants were childish, most of them discouraged, and all of them more or less embarrassed.  Upon their arrival they found that those of us who preceded them had taken up the choice locations, and they were compelled either to take those that were inferior in quality or go farther from ship navigation.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>There was necessarily, under the circumstances, a great hurry to select claims; and the new-comers had to travel over the country, in the rainy season, in search of homes.  Their animals being poor, they found it difficult to get along as fast as they desired.  Many causes combined to make them unhappy for the time being.  The long rainy seasons were new to them, and they preferred the snow and frozen ground to the rain and mud.  There were no hotels in the country, as there was nothing wherewith to pay the bills.  The old settlers had necessarily to throw open their doors to the new immigrants, and entertain them free of charge.  Our houses were small log-cabins, and our bedding was scarce.  The usual mode of travel was for each one to carry his blankets with him, and sleep upon the puncheon-floor.  Our families were often overworked in waiting upon others, and our provisions vanished before the keen appetites of our new guests.  "They bred a famine wherever they went."</P>
055.sgm:<P>As illustrative of the then condition of things, I will relate an incident which I had from good authority.  An old acquaintance of mine, whom I had known in Missouri, came to Oregon in 1844, and selected a claim on the outskirts of the settlements.  He was a man of fair means, and had a large family.  His place was upon the mainly traveled route which led to the valleys above and beyond him.  The consequence was, that he was overwhelmed with company.  He had to travel many miles to secure his supplies, and had to transport them, especially in winter, upon pack-animals.  He was a man of very hospitable disposition; but the burden was so great that he concluded he could not bear it.  The travelers would eat him out of house and home.  He determined, under the severe pressure of these circumstances, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Our new immigrants not only grumbled much about the country and climate in general, but had also much to say against those of us who had written back to our friends, giving them a description of the country.  In the winter of 1843-'44 I had, while at Linnton, written some hundred and twenty-five foolscap pages of manuscript, giving a description of the journey and of the country along the route, as well as of Oregon.  I had stated the exact truth, to the best of my knowledge, information, and belief; and my communications were published in the "New York Herald," and were extensively read, especially in the Western States.  I therefore came in for my full share of censure.  They accused me of misrepresentation.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In a letter I wrote on the Sweetwater, a tributary of the North Fork of the Platte, I stated that, up to that point, the road we had traveled was the finest natural route, perhaps, in the world.  Without any regard to the place from which the letter bore date, they construed it as a description of the <HI REND="italics">entire</HI>
055.sgm: route.  Consequently, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In my communications published in the "Herald," I gave as much statistical information as I could well do, giving the prices of most kinds of personal property; and, among other articles mentioned, I stated that feathers were worth 37 1/2 cents a pound.  Two or three years afterward, the demand having increased faster than the supply, the price went up to 62 1/2 cents.  I was therefore accused of misrepresentation in this case.  They would say: "Now, Burnett, here is a plain case.  You said feathers were worth 37 1/2 cents, and we find them worth 62 1/2."  I would answer: "That seems to be too plain a case even for a lawyer to get around; yet I have this to say, that I did not assume to act the prophet, but only the historian.  I told you what the price then was, and not what it would be two or three years later."</P>
055.sgm:<P>I remember that on one occasion, in passing a house late in the fall, I saw that a new immigrant family occupied it, from the fact that it had previously stood vacant; and I determined to call.  The lady told me the name of the State from which they came, gave me other particulars in regard to the family, and asked me how long I had been in the country.  Finally she inquired for my name; and, when I told her it was Burnett, she said: "We abused you a great deal on the road.  I suppose we ought not to have done it, but we did do it."  I could not but laugh, there was such perfect frankness in her statement.  It was the whole truth, and no more.  I said to her: "Madam, that makes no difference.  On a trip like that some one must be abused, and it is well to be some one who is not present."</P>
055.sgm:<P>I made it a rule never to become irritated, and never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>At any public gathering, it was easy to distinguish the new from the old settlers.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>They were lank, lean, hungry, and tough;<LB>We were ruddy, ragged, and rough.<LB></HI>
055.sgm:<P>They were dressed in broadcloth, and wore linen-bosomed shirts and black cravats, while we wore very coarse, patched clothes; for the art of patching was understood to perfection in Oregon.  But, while they dressed better than we did, we fed better than they.  Of the two, we were rather the more independent.  They wanted our provisions, while we wanted their materials for clothing.  They, seeing our ragged condition, concluded that if they parted with their jeans, satinets, cottons, and calicoes, they would soon be as destitute as we were; and therefore they desired to purchase our provisions on credit, and keep their materials for future use.  This plan did not suit us precisely.  We reasoned in this way: that, if they wished to place themselves in our ruddy condition, they should incur <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I remember that a new immigrant purchased a place in my neighborhood one fall, and in the succeeding month of June came to my house and asked me if I had any wheat in my garner.  I told him I had, but I was compelled to purchase some clothing for my family, and my wheat was the only thing I had with which I could pay for the articles we required; that I could not see how we could do without, or how else to obtain them.  He said his wife and children were without anything to eat, and that he had a good growing crop, and would give me three bushels after harvest for every bushel I would let him have now.  I could not withstand such an appeal, and said I would furnish him with the wheat, and would only require the same quantity after harvest.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But the state of discontent on the part of the new immigrants was temporary, and only lasted during the winter.  In the spring, when the thick clouds cleared away, and the grass and flowers sprang up beneath the kindling rays of a bright Oregon sun, their spirits revived with reviving nature; and by the succeeding fall they had themselves become old settlers, and formed a part of us, their views and feelings, in the mean time, having undergone a total change.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It was interesting to observe the influence of new circumstances upon human character.  Among the men who went to Oregon the year I did, some were idle, worthless young men, too lazy to work at home, and too <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In a community so poor, isolated, and distant, we had each one to depend upon his own individual skill and labor to make a living.  My profession was that of the law, but there was nothing in my line worth attending to until some time after my arrival in Oregon.  I was therefore compelled to become a farmer.  But I had not only to learn how to carry on a farm by my own labor, but I had to learn how to do many other necessary things that were difficult to do.  It was most difficult to procure shoes for myself and family.  The Hudson's Bay Company imported its supply of shoes from England, but the stock was wholly inadequate to our wants, and we had no money to enable us to pay for them; and as yet there were no tan-yards in operation.  One was commenced in my neighborhood in 1844, but the fall supply of leather was only tanned on the outside, leaving a raw streak in the center.  It was undressed, not even curried.  Out of this material I made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>My father, in the early settlement of Missouri, was accustomed to tan his own leather, and make the shoes for the family.  In my younger days he had taught me how to do coarse sewed work.  But now I had to take the measure of the foot, make the last, fit the patterns to the last, cut out the leathers, and make the shoe.  I had no last to copy from, never made one before, and had no one to show me how.  I took the measures of all the family, and made what I supposed to be eight very nice lasts; and upon them I made the shoes, using tanned deer-skin for the females and small boys.  The shoes were not beautiful, nor all comfortable, as they were not all good fits.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1846 my brother William came to Oregon, and afterward lived with me about nine months.  He was a good mechanical genius, and could do well almost any kind of work.  He could make a splendid last and a good boot.  One day I showed him my lasts.  He was too generous to wound the feelings of his elder brother by criticising his poor work.  He said not a word, but in a few days thereafter he made a pair of right and left lasts for himself.  I observed how he did it, and the moment the first last was about finished I saw that mine were very poor.  They were almost flat, scarcely turning up at the toe at all.  I quietly took my lasts and cast them into the fire, and then set to work and made an entire new set; and I never gave up the attempt until I succeeded in making not only a good last, but a good shoe.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the course of about two years we had other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The greatest difficulty I had to encounter for the want of shoes was in 1844.  I had sown some three acres of wheat about the first of May, and it was absolutely necessary to inclose it by the first of June to make a crop.  I did not commence plowing until about the 20th of April.  My team was raw, and so was I, and it required several days' trial to enable us to do good work.  While I was engaged in making and hauling rails to fence in my wheat, my old boots gave out entirely, and I had no time to look for a substitute.  I was worse off than I was when without a hat in Bolivar, Tennessee.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I was determined to save my wheat at any sacrifice, and I therefore went barefoot.  During the first week my feet were very sore; but after that there came a shield over them, so that I could work with great ease, and go almost anywhere except among thorns.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But we had another trouble on our hands.  By permission of a neighbor of ours, a sincere minister, we were allowed to occupy temporarily the log-cabin then used for a church, upon condition that I would permit him to have services there every Sunday.  Our minister was always regular in his attendance, and the congregation consisted of about thirty persons.  I could not well absent myself from church, as it was my duty to attend.  I therefore quietly took my seat in one corner of the building, where my bare feet would not be much noticed.  The congregation collected, and the services went on as usual, with the addition of some church <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>There was no money in the country, and the usual currency consisted in orders for merchandise upon the stores, or wheat delivered at specified points.  Our community had an ample opportunity to practically learn the value of a sound circulating medium.  No one who has not had that practical experience can fully appreciate the true importance of such a medium as a great labor-saving device.</P>
055.sgm:<P>A savage people, who have little or no property to sell, and very few wants to gratify, may get along with a system of barter.  An Indian generally has nothing to sell but furs and peltries, and wants nothing in return but arms, ammunition, blankets, tobacco, beads, and paint.  All he wants he can find at one place, and all he has to dispose of he can readily bring to the same place.  But the property of a civilized race of men is so various in kind, so large in amount, and the ownership and possession change so often, that a good circulating medium is a very great if not an absolute necessity.  For example, a farmer may have a pair of oxen for sale, and may want a pair of plow-horses.  In case there be no circulating medium, he will have great difficulty in making an exchange.  He may find a number of persons who have plow-horses for sale, but none of them may want his oxen.  But should he, after much inquiry and loss of time and labor, succeed in finding some one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In the course of my practice as a lawyer, I had received orders upon an American merchant at Oregon City, until the amount to my credit upon his books was forty-nine dollars.  I called upon him to take up the amount in goods; and he said to me: "Judge, my stock is now very low, and I would suggest to you to wait until my new goods shall arrive from Honolulu.  I am going there to purchase a new supply, and will return as soon as I can."  I readily assented to this suggestion.</P>
055.sgm:<P>After waiting about three months I heard he had returned with his new stock; and Mrs. Burnett and myself set about making out a memorandum of what we wanted.  But the great difficulty was to bring our wants within our means.  After several trials we made up our memorandum, consisting mostly of dry-goods, and only six pounds of sugar.  I went to Oregon City, and at once called upon the merchant.  I asked him if he had any satinets?  None.  Any jeans?  Any calico?  None.  Any brown cottons?  None.  I then asked what he had.  He said tools of various kinds, such as carpenters' implements and others.  He said he feared I would think the prices high, as he had to pay high prices, and must make a little profit upon his purchases.  This statement no doubt was true.  He had purchased in a market where the stocks were limited and prices high.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I then made a selection of several implements that I had not on my memorandum, which amounted in all to about thirteen dollars, and found the prices more than double those at Vancouver.  I became tired of paying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On another occasion, while I was Judge of the Supreme Court, a young hired man, my son Dwight, and myself had on our last working-shirts.  It was in harvest-time, and where or how to procure others I could not tell.  Still, I was so accustomed to these things that I was not much perplexed.  Within a day or two a young man of my acquaintance wrote me that he desired me to unite him in marriage with a young lady, whose name he stated.  I married them, and he gave me an order on a store for five dollars, with which I purchased some blue twilled cotton (the best I could get), out of which my wife made us each a shirt.  The material wore well; but, having been colored with logwood, the shirts, until the color faded from them, left our skins quite blue.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I never felt more independent than I did on one occasion, in the fall of 1847.  In the streets of Oregon City I met a young man with a new and substantial leather hunting-shirt, brought from the Rocky Mountains, where it had been purchased from the Indians.  I said to him, "What will you take for your leather hunting-shirt?  He replied, "Seven bushels of wheat."  I said at once, "I will take it."  I measured him out the grain, and took the article.  I knew it would last me for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>For the first two years after our arrival in Oregon we were frequently without any meat for weeks at a time, and sometimes without bread, and occasionally without both bread and meat at the same time.  On these occasions, if we had milk, butter, and potatoes, we were well content.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I remember, on one occasion, that several gentlemen from Oregon City called at my house in the Plains, and we had no bread.  I felt pained on my wife's account, as I supposed she would be greatly mortified  But she put on a cheeful smile, and gave them the best dinner she could.  Oregon was a fine place for rearing domestic fowls, and we kept our chickens as a sort of reserve fund for emergencies.  We had chickens, milk, butter, and potatoes for dinner; and our friends were well pleased, and laughed over the fact of our having no bread.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In May, 1845, we were entirely without anything in the house for dinner.  I did not know what to do, when my wife suggested a remedy.  The year before we had cultivated a small patch of potatoes, and in digging had left some in the ground, which had sprung up among the young wheat.  We dug a mess of these potatoes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The country improved rapidly in proportion to our population.  The means of education were generally limited to ordinary schools.  In the course of three or four years after my arrival in Oregon, our people had so improved their places that we were quite comfortable.  There was no aristocracy of wealth and very little vice.  I do not think I ever saw a more happy community.  We had all passed through trials that had tested and established our patience; and our condition then was so much better than that of the past that we had good cause for our content.  Few persons could be found to complain of Oregon.</P>
055.sgm:<P>BECOME A CATHOLIC--MY GENERAL RULE AS TO CHARGES AGAINST ME. In the fall of 1844 a Baptist preacher settled in my immediate neighborhood, who had the published debate between Campbell and Purcell; and, as the Catholic question was often mentioned, and as I knew so little about it, I borrowed and read the book.  I had the utmost confidence in the capacity of Mr. Campbell as an able debater; but, while the attentive reading of the debate did not convince me of the entire truth of the Catholic theory, I was greatly astonished to find that so much could be said in its support.  On many points, and those of great importance, it was clear to my mind that Mr. Campbell had been overthrown.  Still, there were many objections to the Catholic Church, either not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>But my thoughts continually recurred to the main positions and arguments on both sides, and, the more I reflected upon the fundamental positions of the Bishop, the more force and power I found them to possess.  My own reflections often afforded me answers to difficulties that at first semed insurmountable, until the question arose in my mind whether Mr. Campbell had done full justice to his side of the question.  Many of his positions seemed so extreme and ill founded that I could not sanction them.  All the prejudices I had, if any, were in his favor; but I knew that it was worse than idle to indulge prejudices when investigating any subject whatever.  I was determined to be true to myself, and this could only be in finding the exact truth, and following it when known.</P>
055.sgm:<P>My mind was therefore left in a state of restless uncertainty; and I determined to examine the question between Catholics and Protestants thoroughly, so far as my limited opportunities and poor abilities would permit.  In the prosecution of this design, I procured all the works on both sides within my reach, and examined them alternately side by side.  This investigation occupied all my spare time for about eighteen months.</P>
055.sgm:<P>After an impartial and calm investigation, I became fully convinced of the truth of the Catholic theory, and went to Oregon City in June, 1846, to join the Old Church.  There I found the heroic and saintly Father De Vos, who had spent one or more years among the Flathead Indians.  He received me into the Church.  The reasons for this change are substantially set forth in my work entitled "The Path which led a Protestant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I was the only Catholic among my numerous living relatives.  None of my ancestors on either my paternal or maternal side had been Catholics, so far as I knew.  All my personal friends were either Protestants or nonprofessors, except four:  Dr. McLoughlin, Dr. Long, and Mr. Pomeroy of Oregon, and Graham L. Hughes of St. Louis.  Nine tenths of the people of Oregon were at that time opposed to my religion.  Nearly all the Catholics of Oregon were Canadian French, in very humble circumstances, many of them being hired menial servants of the Hudson's Bay Company.  I had no reason for the change from a popular to an unpopular religion but the simple love of truth; and, as I have so long borne whatever of censure may have been heaped upon me in consequence of this change, I think I can afford to die in the Old Church.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When I was a young man I was often much concerned as to what others might think of me; and at times I was deeply pained by what others did say of me.  In due time, however, and after full consideration and more experience, I came to this final conclusion: that it was my duty to do what was right in itself, and to avoid so far as I could even the <HI REND="italics">appearance</HI>
055.sgm: of evil; and then, if others wrongfully blamed me, it would be their fault, not mine.  I saw I could control myself, and was therefore responsible for my own conduct; but I could not control others, and was not responsible for their actions, so long as I did right myself, and avoided all appearance of evil.  If I should make myself unhappy because other people erred in their judgment of me, then my happiness would be within their power and in their keeping.  I thought it my duty to keep my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I never would engage in newspaper controversies or personal squabbles.  If I was unjustly censured, I paid no attention to it, and gave myself no trouble about it.  In this way I have mainly led a life of peace with my fellow men.  I have very rarely had the sincerity of my motives called in question.  The general course of the press toward me has been impartial and just.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I have never claimed to be a <HI REND="italics">liberal</HI>
055.sgm:<P>But I must depart from my usual course to notice certain charges made against me by W.H. Gray in his "History of Oregon."  My nephew, George H. Burnett, Esq., of Salem, Oregon, was a guest at my house in San Francisco in January, 1878, and mentioned to me the fact that such charges had been made.  I had never seen the work at that time.  In May, 1878, I procured and read the book.  I notice these charges because they are in the form of <HI REND="italics">historical</HI>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>MISSTATEMENTS OF W. H. GRAY. On pages 374-'5 Mr. Gray, in speaking of the members of the Legislative Committee of 1844, says:</P>
055.sgm:<P>Peter H. Burnett was a lawyer from Missouri, who came to Oregon to seek his fortune, as well as a religion that would pay best and give him the most influence; which in the Legislative Committee was sufficient to induce that body to pay no attention to any organic law or principle laid down for the government of the settlements.  In fact, he asserted that there were no constitutional provisions laid down or adopted by the people in general convention at Champoeg the year previous.  Mr. Burnett was unquestionably the most intelligent lawyer then in the country.  He was a very ambitious man--smooth, deceitful, and insinuating in his manners.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As regards the imputation of improper motives to me in the above extract, if intended as the assertions of fact, such assertions are untrue; and, if intended as expressions of opinions, such opinions are mistaken.  These charges are made not only without proof, but against both the evidence and the fact.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I went to Oregon for three purposes:</P>
055.sgm:<P>1.  To assist in building up a great American community on the Pacific coast. 2.  To restore the health of Mrs. Burnett. 3.  To become able to pay my debts.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Before I became a believer in the truth of the Christian religion, I had sought fortune with avidity; but, after that fundamental change in my views, I ceased to pursue riches, and my only <HI REND="italics">business</HI>
055.sgm: object was to make a decent living for my family, and pay what I owed.  Considering the large amount of my indebtedness, I could not have been so visionary as to suppose I could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>As regards my change of religion, and the motives which led to it, I have already stated the simple truth.  At the time I joined the Old Church I was independent in my pecuniary circumstances, so far as a <HI REND="italics">decent living</HI>
055.sgm:<P>As to my influence in the Committee, it could not possibly have arisen from any change of religion, for these simple and conclusive reasons: that I was then a Protestant, without any idea of becoming a Catholic, and every member was opposed to the Catholic religion.  My influence arose from the fact of my qualifications and my good character.  Waldo, McCarver, Gilmore, and Keizer had traveled with me across the Plains, and had seen me fully tested in that severe school of human nature.  Waldo knew me by reputation, and Gilmore personally, in Missouri.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As to the assertion that I was "very ambitious," the fact is not correctly stated.  I had a reasonable desire for distinction, but never so great as to induce me to sacrifice my personal independence or compromise my true dignity.  I never sought any position under the provisional government of Oregon, and I do not remember to have personally asked any citizen to vote for me.  I was elected a member of the legislative body in 1844 and again in 1848, and Judge of the Supreme Court in 1845, without any serious efforts on my part.  I have been a candidate before the people six times: once in Missouri, twice in Oregon, and three times in California; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>As to the charge of being deceitful, it is the precise opposite of the truth.  No man of decent manners and good character ever called upon me without receiving my candid opinion, where I had any mature judgment upon the question.  I am not a disputatious spirit, ready to engage in a wordy quarrel upon any and every subject, however trivial; but in regard to all important subjects, on all proper occasions, I am frank to speak just what I think.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As to the falsity of all these charges, I can refer to all good men who have known me longest and best.  I lived in Missouri some twenty-one years, and have resided in California nearly thirty years, and I appeal to all good men who have known me, without regard to their religion or place of nativity.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>THE QUESTION WHETHER THERE WERE ANY CONSTITUTIONAL PROVISIONS IN THE LAWS OF 1843 CONSIDERED. The Legislative Committee of 1844 did maintain the position that there were no constitutional provisions adopted by the people at their mass meeting, July 5, 1843.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It appears that there were two publications claiming to be copies of these laws: one by Charles Saxton, published in 1846, and the other by the compiler of the "Oregon Archives" in 1853.  (Gray's "Oregon," 352.)  I shall use the copy given by Mr. Gray, as he ought to know best, and which is found in his history, beginning on page 353.</P>
055.sgm:<P>At a meeting of the people held May 2, 1843, at Champoeg, the proposition to establish a provisional government was put to vote; and, upon a division, there were found to be fifty-two for and fifty against it.  (Gray's "Oregon," 279.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>At that meeting, Robert Moore, David Hill, Robert Shortess, Alanson Beers, W.H. Gray, Thomas J. Hubbard, James A. O'Neal, Robert Newell, and William Dougherty were chosen to act as a Legislative Committee, and instructed to make their report on the 5th of July, 1843, at Champoeg.  (Gray, 280-'81.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 5th of July, 1843, said Committee made their report, which was adopted at the mass meeting of citizens at Champoeg.  The question whether there were any, and, if so, what constitutional provisions in the laws adopted at said meeting, was one that admitted of discussion; but, upon as full a consideration of the subject as our limited time and opportunities allowed, we became satisfied that there were none.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In their report the Committee say, "The Legislative Committee recommend that the following <HI REND="italics">organic laws</HI>
055.sgm: be adopted."  The term <HI REND="italics">organic</HI>
055.sgm: does not necessarily mean constitutional; because, whether the laws were constitutional or not, they were equally organic.  We were aware of the fact that there were no lawyers among the members of the Committee, and that there were then no law-books in the country, except one copy of the Statutes of Iowa; but we knew that the members were Americans, and that all Americans competent to read a newspaper must know that the fundamental laws of the United States and of the several States were called <HI REND="italics">constitutions</HI>
055.sgm:; and hence we supposed that the Committee would surely have used the plain, ordinary, and appropriate term <HI REND="italics">constitution</HI>
055.sgm:<P>But, besides the want of proper language to designate a constitution, the nature of the laws themselves seemed to show a different intent.  From the face of the Code, no one could tell where the constitutional laws ended and the statutory began.  It was either all constitution or all statute.  All were adopted at the same public meeting, and were recommended by the same Committee.  That Committee "recommended that the following <HI REND="italics">organic laws</HI>
055.sgm: be adopted."  Now, whatever laws were recommended by them were all of the <HI REND="italics">same</HI>
055.sgm: character, or they failed to distinguish one portion from another.  There being no mode of amendment provided, these laws, if constitutional, could only be amended in violation of their own terms; that is, by revolution.  If considered as statutory provisions, then there was a plain mode of amendment provided in Article VI., section 2, which enacts that "the legislative power shall be vested in a committee of nine persons, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The code goes into the most minute provisions, such as fixing the fees of the Recorder and Treasurer, and for solemnizing marriage.  It also contains a militia law, and a law on land claims, and a resolution making the statute laws of Iowa the law of Oregon.  Such provisions, in their very nature, are but statutory.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Considering the "organic laws" (so named by the Committee) as composing a constitution, not amendable except by revolution, the Legislative Committee of 1844 had nothing to do worth mentioning.  In this view it was a useless body, constituted for an idle and vain purpose.  We came to the conclusion that our Legislative Committee had practical legislative power, and that it was our duty to exercise it.  While we were not disposed to make useless changes, we were obliged to amend the code in many respects, as will be seen from what follows.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Article VII., section 2 vests "the judicial power in a Supreme Court, consisting of the supreme judge and two justices of the peace, a Probate Court, and Justice Court."  If a majority of the persons composing the Supreme Court, under this quaint and original theory, could make the decision, then the two justices of the peace could overrule the Supreme Judge.  If, on the contrary, it required the unanimous consent of all three, then there would often be no decision at all.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Our Committee amended this by the act of June 27, 1844.  The first section of the second article of that act is as follows: "Section 1.  The judicial power shall be vested in the Circuit Courts and as many justices of the peace as shall from time to time be appointed or elected according to law."  The second section provides for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:election of <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The fifth article of section 2 vested the executive power in a committee of three persons.  This provision was adopted not because it met the approbation of the Legislative Committee of 1843, but from necessity, as their instructions were against a governor (Gray's "Oregon," 349).  We repealed this provision, and vested the executive power in a single person.</P>
055.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XVII.  All male persons of the age of sixteen years and upward, and all females of the age of fourteen years and upward, shall have the right to marry.  When either of the parties shall be under twenty-one years of age, the consent of the parents or guardians of such minors shall be necessary to the validity of such matrimonial engagement.  Every ordained minister of the gospel, of any religious denomination, the supreme judge, and all justices of the peace, are hereby authorized to solemize marriage according to law, to have the same recorded, and pay the recorder's fee.  The legal fee for marriage shall be one dollar, and for recording fifty cents.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This extreme law made the marriage of persons under the age of twenty-one years without the consent of their parents or guardians <HI REND="italics">invalid</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Our Committe passed the following act:<LB><HI REND="italics">An Act amendatory of the Act regarding Marriage</HI>
055.sgm:. SECTION 1. That all males of the age of sixteen years and upward, and all females of the age of twelve and upward, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 2. That when either of the parties about to enter into the marriage union shall be minors, the male under the age of twenty-one years, or the female under the age of eighteen, no person authorized to solemnize the rites of matrimony shall do so without the consent of the parent or guardian of such minor; and in case such person shall solemnize such marriage without the consent of the parent or guardian of such minor, he shall be liable to pay such parent or guardian the sum of one hundred dollars, to be recovered by action of debt or assumpsit before the proper court:  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 3. That all acts and parts of acts coming in conflict with this act be and the same are hereby repealed.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Legislative Committee of 1843 was properly called a <HI REND="italics">committee</HI>
055.sgm:, because its duty was to prepare a code to be submitted to the mass meeting of citizens held on the 5th of July, 1843, for their approval or rejection; the <HI REND="italics">legislative</HI>
055.sgm: power being exercised by the people themselves on that occasion.  But, as already stated, the legislative power was vested by the sixth article, section 2, of the laws of 1843, in a committee of nine persons.  To call a legislative body a <HI REND="italics">committee</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The laws of 1843 made no provision for the support of the government, except putting in circulation a subscription paper as follows:</P>
055.sgm:<P>We, the subscribers, hereby pledge ourselves to pay annually to the Treasurer of Oregon Territory the sum affixed to our respective names, for defraying the expenses of the government:  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
055.sgm:, That in all cases each individual subscriber may at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Our Committee were fully satisfied that no government could be practically administered without taxation; and we therefore passed a revenue law containing twelve sections.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The law of 1843 in relation to land claims is as follows:</P>
055.sgm:<P>ARTICLE I. Any person now holding or hereafter wishing to establish a claim to land in this Territory, shall designate the extent of his claim by natural boundaries, or by marks at the corners and upon the lines of said claim, recorded in the office of the Territorial Recorder, in a book to be kept by him for that purpose, within twenty days from the of making said claim:  <HI REND="italics"> Provided</HI>
055.sgm:<P>ART. II. All claimants shall, within six months from the time of recording their claims, make permanent improvement upon the same, by building or inclosing, and also become occupant upon said claims within one year of the date of said record.</P>
055.sgm:<P>ART. III. No individual shall be allowed to hold a claim of more than one square mile, or six hundred and forty acres, in a square of oblong form, according to the natural situation of the premises, nor shall any individual be able to hold more than one claim at the same time.  Any person complying with the provisions of these ordinances shall be entitled to the same process against trespass as in other cases provided by law.</P>
055.sgm:<P>ART. IV. No person shall be entitled to hold such a claim upon city or town lots, extensive water privileges, or other situations necessary for the transaction of mercantile or manufacturing operations:  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
055.sgm:, That nothing in these laws shall be so construed as to affect any claim of any mission of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Our Committee passed the following act, June 25, 1844:<LB><HI REND="italics">An Act in relation to Land Claims</HI>
055.sgm:. SECTION 1. That all persons who have heretofore made, or shall hereafter make, permanent improvements upon a place, with a <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
055.sgm: intention of occupying and holding the same for himself, and shall continue to occupy and cultivate the same, shall be entitled to hold six hundred and forty acres, and shall hold only one claim at the same time:  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 2. That all claims hereafter made shall be in a square form, if the nature of the ground shall permit; and in case the situation will not permit, shall be in an oblong form.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 3. That in all cases where claims are already made, and in all cases where there are agreed lines between the parties occupying adjoining tracts, such claims shall be valid to the extent of six hundred and forty acres, although not in a square or oblong form.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 4. That in all cases where claims shall hereafter be made, such permanent improvements shall be made within two months from the time of taking up such claim, and the first settler or his successor shall be deemed to hold the prior right.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 5. That no person shall hold a claim under the provisions of this act except free males over the age of eighteen, who would be entitled to vote if of lawful age, and widows:  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 6. That all laws heretofore passed in regard to land claims be and the same are hereby repealed.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 7. That all persons complying with the provisions of this act shall be deemed in possession to the extent of six hundred and forty acres or less, as the case may be, and shall have the remedy of forcible entry and detainer against intruders, and the action of trespass against trespassers.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On December 24, 1844, we passed the following explanatory and amendatory act:</P>
055.sgm:<P>SECTION 1. That the word "occupancy," in said act, shall be so construed as to require the claimant to either personally reside upon his claim himself, or to occupy the same by the personal residence of his tenant.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 2. That any person shall be authorized to take six hundred acres of his claim in the prairie, and forty acres in the timber, and such parts of his claim need not be adjoining to each other.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 3. That when two persons take up their claims jointly, not exceeding twelve hundred and eighty acres, they may hold the same jointly for the term of one year, by making the improvements required by said act upon any part of said claim, and may hold the same longer than one year if they make the said improvements within the year upon each six hundred and forty acres.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The land law of 1844 dispensed with recording of claims, because, under the then existing condition of the country, it was an onerous burden upon the new immigrant.  The great body of the immigration arrived late in the fall, just as the rainy season set in; and to require each locater of a claim to travel from twenty to one hundred miles to the Recorder's office, and return through an Oregon winter, was indeed a harsh condition.  Under the land law of 1843 the old settler was allowed one year within which to record his claim, while the new settlers were only allowed twenty days.  Besides, recording a claim without a proper survey was of very doubtful utility, as parties would be very apt to include within their lines more than six hundred and forty acres.</P>
055.sgm:<P>By the land law of 1843, as will be seen, <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
055.sgm: persons of every age, sex, or condition, could hold claims.  If a man had several sons, he could hold one claim for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:himself and each of his sons one, though under age; and, as each claimant had six months within which to make his improvements, and one year within which to become an occupant from the date of the record, the act left open the door to speculation and monopoly to a grievous extent.  A man, having a number of children, could record one claim in the name of each child one month before the annual arrival of the new immigrants, and that record would hold the land for six months; thus forcing the late comers either to go farther for locations or purchase these claims of his children.  Besides, this act did not require the locater to make his improvements with the <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
055.sgm:<P>But one of the most objectionable provisions of the land law of 1843 was the proviso allowing each mission six miles square, or thirty-six sections of land.  From what Mr. Gray says, page 344, it appears that this proviso was adopted to gain the support of those connected with the Methodist and Catholic missions; as, without such support, it was feared the attempt to establish a government at that time would fail.  The Committee of 1843, in their short experience, learned one great truth: that civil government is a <HI REND="italics">practical</HI>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>THE LEGISLATIVE COMMITTEE OF 1844--MISTAKES OF W. H. GRAY. On page 383 Mr. Gray, speaking of the Legislative Committee of 1844, says:</P>
055.sgm:<P>"In fact, the whole proceedings seemed only to mix up and confuse the people; so much so that some doubted the existence of any legal authority in the country, and the leading men of the immigration of 1843 denounced the organization as a missionary arrangement to secure the most valuable farming lands in the country."</P>
055.sgm:<P>The writer is correct as to the fact of confusion and opposition among the people, but most sadly mistaken as to the true cause.  It was not the measures passed by the Legislative Committee of 1844, but the law of 1843, that caused the confusion and opposition.  It is very true that many of "the leading men of the immigration of 1843 denounced the organization as a missionary arrangement to secure the best farming lands in the country."  They had much apparentreason for their opposition, and that reason was found in the laws of 1843, especially in the proviso allowing each mission six miles square, and not in the land law of 1844, which repealed this objectionable proviso.  Whatever else may be said against the laws of 1844, they were plain, simple, and consistent as a whole, and could not have produced the confusion mentioned.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The first time I was in Oregon City, to the best of my recollection, was when I went there to take my seat in the Legislative Committee in June, 1844.  Previous to that time I do not remember to have seen the laws of 1843.  After all the examination I could give them, I saw that no regular and efficient government could be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:sustained without a revenue; that no certain and reliable revenue could be had without taxation; that no system of taxation could be enforced unless the great and overwhelming majority of the people were satisfied with the government, and that such majority would not support the organization unless they believed they were receiving an equivalent in the form of protection for the money they paid in the shape of taxes.  Many good men doubted our legal right to organize any government.  Our object was to gain the consent of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
055.sgm:<P>In consulting upon our then condition, we were for a time much perplexed to know what peaceable course to pursue, in order to secure the consent of all good men to our organization.  We knew that Americans were devotedly attached to two things: land and the privilege of voting.  Our Committee, therefore, passed an act to provide by taxation the means necessary to support the government, the fourth section of which was as follows: "Sec. 4.  That any person refusing to pay tax, as in this act required, shall have no benefit of the laws of Oregon, and shall be disqualified from voting at any election in this country."</P>
055.sgm:<P>By this provision we plainly said to each citizen substantially as follows: "If you are not willing to pay your proportion of the expenses of this government, you can not sue in our courts or vote at our elections, but you must remain an outlaw.  If any one should squat or trespass on your claim, or refuse to pay you what he owes, you can have no protection from our organization.  If you can do without our assistance, we certainly can do without yours."</P>
055.sgm:<P>This provision very soon had its legitimate effect.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:As the elections approached, those who had been opposed began to doubt, and finally yielded.  The friends of the organization were active, kind, and wise in their course toward those opposed.  When one opposed to the government would state that fact, some friend would kindly remind him that his claim was liable to be "jumped," and that he could not alone defend his rights against the violent and unprincipled; and that it was a desolate and painful condition for a citizen, in a civilized community, to be an <HI REND="italics">outlaw</HI>
055.sgm:<P>After the laws passed by the Legislative Committee of 1844 became known, there was no serious opposition anywhere.  It is my solemn opinion that the organization could not have been kept up under the laws of 1843.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On page 375, Mr. Gray, speaking of the Legislative Committee of 1844, says:</P>
055.sgm:<P>"On motion of Mr. Lovejoy (another lawyer), the several members were excused from producing their credentials."</P>
055.sgm:<P>This statement is true, so far as it goes; but, without the explanatory facts, it might convey a false impression.  The laws of 1843 made no provision as to the manner of conducting elections, except by adopting the laws of Iowa; and as there was but one copy in the country, and this was the first election held in Oregon, and as two thirds of the voters were late immigrants, the various officers of the election knew nothing of their duties, and gave no credentials to the members elect; and, of course, they could produce none.  We knew that we had been fairly elected, and our respective constituents also knew the fact, and no one was found to dispute it; and, as credentials are only <HI REND="italics">evidence</HI>
055.sgm: of the fact of the election of the person mentioned, we had in this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>"Such being the composition of the Legislative Committee of Oregon in 1844, it is not surprising that interests of classes and cliques should find advocates, and that the absolute wants of the country should be neglected.  The whole time of the session seems to have been taken up in the discussion of personal bills."  (Page 378.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>I find it difficult to justly characterize this sweeping misstatement.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The two sessions of the Committee of 1844 occupied together fifteen to seventeen days; and in that time we passed forty-three bills, some of them of considerable length, and most of them of general importance.  Among these forty-three acts there were not exceeding eight that could be properly termed personal, viz.: act granting Hugh Burns a right to keep a public ferry; act authorizing Robert Moore to establish and keep a ferry; act to authorize John McLoughlin to construct a canal around the Willamette Falls; act for the relief of John Connor; act appointing Jesse Applegate engineer; act authorizing L. H. Judson and W. H. Wilson to construct a mill-race in Champoeg County; act amending the several acts regulating ferries; act for the relief of J. L. Meek.</P>
055.sgm:<P>These acts were all just in themselves, and some of them of public importance.  Public ferries are public conveniences.  The act to authorize John McLoughlin to construct a canal enabled him to bring the water to propel his extensive flour-mill, and was of much public benefit.  The act for the relief of John Connor was a short act of one section, remitting a fine and restoring him to citizenship.  The act appointing Jesse Applegate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The acts of the Legislative Committee of 1844 will fill some thirty printed pages, while the laws of 1843 only occupy seven pages of Gray's "History."  If we spent a part of our time in the discussion of personal bills, we passed but a few of them, and did a large amount of other legislative work.</P>
055.sgm:<P>"The proposed constitutional revision was also strongly recommended by the Executive Committee, and the Legislative Committee went through the farce of calling a convention, and increased the number of representatives, and called it a Legislature."  (Page 383.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Executive Committee, in their communication to our Committee, dated December 16, 1844, say:</P>
055.sgm:<P>"We would advise that provision be made by this body for the framing and adoption of a constitution for Oregon previous to the next annual election, which may serve as a more thorough guide to her officers and a more firm basis of her laws."</P>
055.sgm:<P>It will be seen that, while the Executive Committee recommended that provision should be made for the framing and adoption of a constitution previous to the then next annual election, they did not suggest the <HI REND="italics">mode</HI>
055.sgm: in which this should be done.  Our Legislative <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:Committee thought that a convention, composed of delegates elected by the people for the <HI REND="italics">sole</HI>
055.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
055.sgm: purpose of framing the fundamental law, was the American and the proper mode.  When the people come to choose delegates to a constitutional convention, they are very apt to duly appreciate the great importance of the work to be done, and will therefore generally select the best and most competent men for that great purpose.  The body that forms a constitution should have but <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
055.sgm: task to accomplish, for the simple and conclusive reason that nothing is more difficult than to frame a good constitution.  The greatest statesmen and the mightiest intellects among men have essentially differed as to the true theory of a constitution.  The members of a constitutional body should not have their attention distracted by ordinary statutory legislation.  A <HI REND="italics">perfect</HI>
055.sgm:<P>While we could not see the great and immediate <HI REND="italics">necessity</HI>
055.sgm: of a constitution for mere temporary government, we thought that, if the object sought was necessary at all, then the work should be well and thoroughly done, so that our constitution would be an honor to our new country.  Believing, as we did, that a constitutional convention was the <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
055.sgm: appropriate and competent body to frame a constitution that would stand the test of fair criticism, and be beneficial in its practical operation, and not seeing any pressing necessity for immediate action, we did <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
055.sgm:<P>SECTION 1.  That the Executive Committee shall, in the manner prescribed by law for notifying elections in Oregon, notify the inhabitants of all the respective counties qualified to vote <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The said votes shall be in open meeting received, assorted, and counted, and a true return thereof made to the Executive Committee, agreeable to the requisitions of the law regulating elections.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  It shall be the duty of the Executive to lay the result of the said vote before the Legislative Committee for their information.</P>
055.sgm:<P>While we had our doubts as to the necessity of a constitution for a mere temporary government (which we then had every reason to believe would last only a year or two), we thought it but just to submit the question of calling a convention to the people for their decision.  It is usual to submit such a question to the people, as was lately done in California.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The treaty of June 15, 1846, between Great Britain and the United States, settled the question of sovereignty over Oregon in favor of our country; and the act of Congress creating a Territorial government was passed August 14, 1848.  The treaty was delayed beyond our reasonable expectations; and the creation of a Territorial organization was postponed by the Mexican war, which war was not foreseen by our Committee in December, 1844.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We did increase the number of representatives from nine to thirteen, and we really thought we were moderate in this respect.  According to Mr. Gray's estimate, the immigration of 1843 amounted to eight hundred and seventy-five persons, and the whole population at the end of that year to about twelve hundred people.  (Pages 360-'61.)  If, then, some three hundred and twenty-five persons were entitled, under the laws of 1843, to nine members in the Legislative Committee, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.<LB>THE ACT IN REGARD TO SLAVERY AND FREE NEGROES AND MULATTOES--MISREPRESENTATIONS OF W. H. GRAY.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>MR. GRAY, in speaking of the Legislative Committee of 1844, says:</P>
055.sgm:<P>"There was one inhuman act passed by this Legislative Committee, which should stamp the names of its supporters with disgrace and infamy."  (Page 378.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>"The principal provisions of this bill were, that in case a colored man was brought to the country by any master of a vessel, he must give bonds to take him away again or be fined; and in case the negro was found, or came here from any quarter, the sheriff was to catch him and flog him forty lashes at a time, till he left the country."  (Page 378.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>"The principles of Burnett's bill made it a crime for a white man to bring a negro to the country, and a crime for a negro to come voluntarily; so that in any case, if he were found in the country he was guilty of a crime, and punishment or slavery was his doom."  (Page 379.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>"At the adjourned session in December we find the Executive urging the Legislative Committee . . . . to amend their act relative to the corporal punishment of the blacks," etc.  (Page 379.)</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>"To the honor of the country, Peter H. Burnett's negro-whipping law was never enforced in a single instance against a white or black man, as no officer of the provisional government felt it incumbent upon himself to attempt to enforce it."   (Page 383.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>This is all the information given by Mr. Gray as to the provisions of this act, and nothing is said as to its amendment.  The act is as follows:</P>
055.sgm:<P>AN ACT <HI REND="italics">in regard to Slavery and Free Negroes and Mulattoes</HI>
055.sgm:.<LB><HI REND="italics">Be it enacted by the Legislative Committee of Oregon as follows</HI>
055.sgm:<P>SECTION 1.  That slavery and involuntary servitude shall be for ever prohibited in Oregon.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  That in all cases where slaves shall have been, or shall hereafter be, brought into Oregon, the owners of such slaves respectively shall have the term of three years from the introduction of such slaves to remove them out of the country.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  That if such owners of slaves shall neglect or refuse to remove such slaves from the country within the time specified in the preceding section, such slaves shall be free.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  That when any free negro or mulatto shall have come to Oregon, he or she (as the case may be), if of the age of eighteen or upward, shall remove from and leave the country within the term of two years for males and three years for females from the passage of this act; and that if any free negro or mulatto shall hereafter come to Oregon, if of the age aforesaid, he or she shall quit and leave the country within the term of two years for males and three years for females from his or her arrival in the country.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  That if such free negro or mulatto be under the age aforesaid, the terms of time specified in the preceding section shall begin to run when he or she shall arrive at such age.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 6.  That if any such free negro or mulatto shall fail to quit the country as required by this act, he or she may be arrested upon a warrant issued by some justice of the peace, and, if guilty upon trial before such justice, shall receive upon his or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  That if any free negro or mulatto shall fail to quit the country within the term of six months after receiving such stripes, he or she shall again receive the same punishment once in every six months until he or she shall quit the country.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  That when any slave shall obtain his or her freedom, the time specified in the fourth section shall begin to run from the time when such freedom shall be obtained.</P>
055.sgm:<P>UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. STATE OF OREGON, SECRETARY'S OFFICE.<HSEP>SALEM, <HI REND="italics">June</HI>
055.sgm:<P>I, S. F. Chadwick, Secretary of the State of Oregon, do hereby certify that I am the custodian of the Great Seal of the State of Oregon.  That the foregoing copy of original bill for an act in regard to slavery and free negroes and mulattoes passed the Legislative Committee of the Territory of Oregon June 26, 1844, has been by me compared with the original bill for an act, etc., on file in this office, and said copy is a correct transcript there-from, and of the whole of the said original bill.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEAL.     In witness whereof, I have hereto set my hand and affixed the Great Seal of the State of Oregon, the day and year above written.</P>
055.sgm:<P>S. F. CHADWICK, Secretary of the State of Oregon. By THOMAS B. JACKSON, Assistant Secretary of State.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Executive Committee, in their communication to the Legislative Committee, dated December 16, 1844, made this recommendation:</P>
055.sgm:<P>"We would recommend that the act passed by this Assembly in June last, relative to blacks and mulattoes, be so amended as to exclude corporal punishment, and require bonds for good behavior in its stead."  ("Oregon Laws and Archives," 58.)</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>At the December session I introduced the following bill, which was passed December 19, 1844:</P>
055.sgm:<P>AN ACT <HI REND="italics">amendatory of an Act passed June 26, 1844, in regard to slavery and for other purposes</HI>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Be it enacted by the Legislative Committee of Oregon as follows</HI>
055.sgm:<P>SECTION 1.  That the sixth and seventh sections of said act are hereby repealed.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  That if any such free negro or mulatto shall fail to quit and leave the country, as required by the act to which this is amendatory, he or she may be arrested upon a warrant issued by some justice of the peace; and if guilty upon trial before such justice had, the said justice shall issue his order to any officer competent to execute process, directing said officer to give ten days' public notice, by at least four written or printed advertisements, that he will publicly hire out such free negro or mulatto to the lowest bidder, on a day and at a place therein specified.  On the day and at the place mentioned in said notice, such officer shall expose such free negro or mulatto to public hiring; and the person who will obligate himself to remove such free negro or mulatto from the country for the shortest term of service, shall enter into a bond with good and sufficient security to Oregon, in a penalty of at least one thousand dollars, binding himself to remove said negro or mulatto out of the country within six months after such service shall expire; which bond shall be filed in the clerk's office in the proper county; and upon failure to perform the conditions of said bond, the attorney prosecuting for Oregon shall commence a suit upon a certified copy of such bond in the circuit court against such delinquent and his sureties.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It will be readily seen how much the <HI REND="italics">original</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Not a word is said in the original act about the criminality of the master of a vessel in bringing a colored man into the country.  The assertion that "the sheriff was to catch the negro and flog him forty lashes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:at a time, until he left the country," is not only untrue, but the statement conveys the idea that the sheriff was <HI REND="italics">himself</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The statement that the principles of the original act "made it a crime for a white man to bring a negro to the country" is equally untrue, as will be readily seen.  A crime is an offense for which the party may be arrested, tried, convicted, and punished; and there is no provision in the act authorizing the arrest of a white man for any act whatever.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It is perfectly clear that Mr. Gray either willfully misrepresented the original act, or attempted to state its substance from memory; and if the latter be true, he misrepresented the measure, and made it much worse than it really was.  There can be no excuse for the misrepresentation of an act by a grave historian, especially one that he condemns in the harshest language, when he has easy access to the act itself.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But he not only essentially misrepresents the original act itself, but entirely ignores the amendatory bill; and does it in such a way as to increase the censure of the Legislative Committee of 1844.  There are two modes of falsehood: false statement of fact, and false suppression of the truth.  The historian first misrepresents the substance of the original act, then informs the reader <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:that the Executive urged its amendment, and then suppresses the fact that the act was amended.  This mode of historical misstatement and suppression left the reader to say to himself, "These men first passed an act containing objectionable provisions, and then obstinately refused to amend, when their attention was urgently called to the error."  Throughout his history of this act, he represents it as <HI REND="italics">unamended</HI>
055.sgm:<P>It will be seen, by an inspection of the original act itself, that it was <HI REND="italics">prospective</HI>
055.sgm:, and that not a single case could possibly arise under it until the expiration of <HI REND="italics">two years after its passage</HI>
055.sgm:; and that no officer was required to act until he was commanded to do so by the regular warrant or order of a justice of the peace.  In the mean time, and eighteen months <HI REND="italics">before</HI>
055.sgm: a single case could possibly arise under the act, it was amended by the very <HI REND="italics">same</HI>
055.sgm: body that passed the original bill, and at the instance of the very <HI REND="italics">same</HI>
055.sgm:<P>An act that is simply prospective, and does not take effect until two years after the date of its passage, is an incomplete measure, liable to be amended at any time before it goes into operation; and, if amended before any one suffers any injury from its erroneous provisions, those provisions are as if they never had been.  It is like a bill imperfect when first introduced by a member of a legislative body, and so amended by the author, before its final passage, as to remove its objectionable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:features.  In such case, no sensible man would censure the introducer for mistakes <HI REND="italics">he himself had corrected</HI>
055.sgm:<P>It was substantially so in this case.  In the hurry of the June session of 1844 I could not think of any other mode of enforcing the act but the one adopted; but by the December session of 1844 I had found another and less objectionable remedy, and promptly adopted it.  This remedy was not the one urged by the Executive Committee, as will easily be seen.  Neither myself nor the other members who voted for the original bill are responsible for the objectionable features of the measure because we ourselves corrected the error.  I maintain as true this general proposition: that a person who commits a mistake, and then corrects it himself, before any one suffers in consequence of it, deserves commendation rather than censure; because the act of correction shows a love of justice, and a magnanimous willingness to <HI REND="italics">admit</HI>
055.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">correct</HI>
055.sgm:<P>On page 378 the historian gives, <HI REND="italics">professedly</HI>
055.sgm: from the Journal, the yeas and nays upon the final passage of the original bill, as follows: "Yeas, Burnett, Gilmore, Keizer, Waldo, Newell, and Mr. Speaker McCarver--6; Nays, Lovejoy and Hill--2."  He then informs us, as already stated, that the Executive urged the amendment of the act at the December session, 1844; and then, on pages 380-'3, gives the communication of the Executive Committee in full.  Now, as he had the Journal before him, why did he not follow it up to the short December <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>His history of the proceedings of the Committee of 1844 is very short; but, concise as it is, it is full of flagrant misrepresentations.  There was one act, however, that he affirmatively approved; and yet, so great was his prejudice, that he wrongfully imputes a bad motive for a confessedly good act.  He says, on page 379, "Mr. Burnett claimed great credit for getting up a prohibitory liquor law, and made several speeches in favor of sustaining it, that being a popular measure among a majority of the citizens."</P>
055.sgm:<P>All our legislation under the provisional government was based upon the settled conviction that Oregon would be the first American State on the Pacific.  We considered ourselves as the founders of a new State of the great American Union.</P>
055.sgm:<P>At the time this measure was passed, each State had the constitutional right to determine who should be citizens, and who residents.  Any person born on the soil of a State had the natural, moral, and legal right to a residence within that State, while conducting himself properly; because the place of one's birth is an accidental circumstance, over which he can have no control.  But, for the very reason that every human being has the right of domicile in the place of his nativity, he is not, <HI REND="italics">as a matter of right</HI>
055.sgm:, entitled to a residence in another community.  If that other community denies him the privilege of such residence, it denies him no <HI REND="italics">right</HI>
055.sgm:, natural or acquired, but only refuses a <HI REND="italics">favor</HI>
055.sgm: asked.  The territory of a State belongs to its people, as if they constituted one family; and no one not a native has a right to complain that he is not allowed to form one of this family.  Although every one, under the broad and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:enlarged principles of law and justice, has the right to quit his original domicile at his pleasure, he has not the equal right to acquire a new residence in another community against its consent.  "The bird has the right to leave its parent-nest," but has not, for that reason, the equal right to occupy the nest of another bird.  A man may <HI REND="italics">demand</HI>
055.sgm: his rights, and justly complain when they are denied; but he can not demand <HI REND="italics">favors</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The principle is no doubt correct that when a State, for reasons satisfactory to itself, denies the right of suffrage and office to a certain class, it is sometimes the best humanity also to deny the privilege of residence.  If the prejudices or the just reasons of a community are so great that they can not or will not trust a certain class with those privileges that are indispensable to the improvement and elevation of such class, it is most consistent, in some cases, to refuse that class a residence.  Placed in a degraded and subordinate political and social position, which continually reminds them of their inferiority, and of the utter hopelessness of all attempts to improve their condition as a class, they are left without adequate <HI REND="italics">motive</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Had I foreseen the civil war, and the changes it has produced, I would not have supported such a measure.  But at the time I did not suppose such changes could be brought about; and the <HI REND="italics">fundamental</HI>
055.sgm: error was <HI REND="italics">then</HI>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:found in the organic laws of Oregon adopted in 1843.  Article IV., section 2, of those laws conferred the right to vote and hold office upon every free male descendant of a white man, inhabitant of Oregon Territory, of the age of twenty-one years and upward.  (Gray's "Oregon," 354.)  While the organic laws of 1843 professedly admitted <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
055.sgm: of the disfranchised class to reside in the Territory, they were so framed as effectually to exclude the <HI REND="italics">better</HI>
055.sgm:<P>For years I had been opposed to slavery, as injurious to both races.  While I resided in Tennessee and Missouri, there was no discussion upon the subject of manumitting the slaves in those States.  I was not then in circumstances that made it proper to discuss the question.  But when I arrived in Oregon, the first opportunity I had, I voted against slavery while a member of the Legislative Committee of 1844.  I presided at a public meeting at Sacramento City, January 8, 1849, that unanimously voted for a resolution opposing slavery in California.  This was the first public meeting in this country that expressed its opposition to that institution.  A public meeting was held in San Francisco, February 17, 1849, which endorsed the resolution against slavery passed at Sacramento.  ("Alta California," February 22, 1849.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>As already stated, one of the objects I had in view in coming to this coast was to aid in building up a great American community on the Pacific; and, in the enthusiasm of my nature, I was anxious to aid in founding a State superior in several respects to those east of the Rocky Mountains.  I therefore labored to avoid the evils <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>W. H. GRAY--CRITICISM UPON THE HISTORY OF OREGON. It is more charitable to impute Mr. Gray's misrepresentations to inveterate prejudice than to deliberate malice.  Some men seem to become the slaves of prejudice from long indulgence, until it grows into a chronic habit; and it is about as easy to make an angel of a goat as an impartial historian of a prejudiced man.  His book, in my best judgment, is a bitter, prejudiced, sectarian, controversial work, in the form of history; wherein the author acts as historian, controvertist, and witness.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I readily admit that circumstances may place a good man in this unpleasant position; but, if so, he should fully comprehend the extreme delicacy of the situation, and should rise with the occasion to the dignity of temperate and impartial history.  He should make no appeals to prejudice, and should not, in advance, load down with derisive epithets those he in his own opinion is finally compelled to condemn; but should err, if at all, on the side of charity, and not against it.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The great Dr. Samuel Johnson, in speaking of Burnet's "History of his own Times," said: "I do not believe that Burnet intentionally lied; but he was so much prejudiced that he took no pains to find out the truth.  He was like a man who resolves to regulate his time by a certain watch, but will not inquire whether the watch is right or not." (Boswell's "Life of Johnson," vol. ii., p. 264.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>I think this opinion applicable to Gray's "History."  I <HI REND="italics">know</HI>
055.sgm: he has done myself and the Legislative <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>For example, the historian gives the letter of Mr. McBean, written at Fort Nez Perce&acute;s, dated November 30, 1847, and addressed to the Board of Managers of the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Vancouver, and the letters of Mr. Douglas and Mr. Hinman to Governor Abernethy (pages 519, 524, and 530).  I will give so much of these last two letters as may be necessary to the point I make:</P>
055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FORT VANCOUVER, <HI REND="italics">December</HI>
055.sgm:<P>GEORGE ABERNETHY, ESQ.--SIR:  Having received intelligence last night (on the 4th), by special express from Walla Walla, of the <HI REND="italics">destruction of the missionary settlement at Wailatpu by the Cayuse Indians of that place</HI>
055.sgm:, we hasten to communicate the <HI REND="italics">particulars</HI>
055.sgm:<P>JAMES DOUGLAS.</P>
055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FORT VANCOUVER, <HI REND="italics">December</HI>
055.sgm:<P>MR. GEORGE ABERNETHY--DEAR SIR:  A Frenchman from Walla Walla arrived at my place on last Saturday, and informed me that he was on his way to Vancouver, and wished me to assist in procuring him a canoe immediately.  I was very inquisitive to know if there was any difficulty above.  He said four Frenchmen had died recently, and he wished to get others to occupy their places.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I immediately got him a canoe, and concluded to go in company with him in order to get some medicine for the Indians, as they were dying off with measles and other diseases very fast.  I was charged with indifference.  They said we were killing in not giving them medicines, and I found, if we were not exposing our lives, we were our peace, and consequently I set out for this place.  This side of the Cascades I was made acquainted with the horrible massacre that took place at Wailatpu last Monday....</P>
055.sgm:<P>ALANSAN HINMAN.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The words ("on the 4th") are put into the letter of Mr. Douglas by the historian, to call the attention of his readers to the discrepancy in the dates of the two letters.  Upon these two letters he makes the following comments, among others (page 531):</P>
055.sgm:<P>There is one other fact in connection with this transaction that looks dark on the part of Sir James Douglas.  It is shown in the dates of the several letters.  Mr. Hinman's is dated December 4th; Mr. Douglas's, December 7th, that to the Sandwich Islands, December 9th.  Now, between the 4th and 7th are three days.  In a case of so much importance and professed sympathy, as expressed in his letter, how is it that three, or even two, days were allowed to pass without sending a dispatch informing Governor Abernethy of what had happened, and of what was expected to take place?</P>
055.sgm:<P>The distance from Wailatpu (Dr. Whitman's mission) to Walla Walla (Fort Nez Perce&acute;s) was about twenty-five miles, and from Walla Walla to Wascopum (Mr. Hinman's place at the Dalles) about one hundred and forty miles.  The massacre took place on the afternoon of Monday, November 29, 1847.  Mr. McBean states in his letter, dated Tuesday, the last day of November, 1847, that he was first apprised of the massacre early that morning by Mr. Hall, who arrived half naked and covered with blood.  As Mr. Hall started at the outset, his information was not satisfactory; and he (McBean) sent his interpreter and another man to the mission.  As the two messengers had to travel twenty-five miles to the mission and the same distance back again, Mr. McBean's letter must have been written late on Tuesday night; and the messenger he sent to Vancouver must have left on Wednesday morning, December 1st.  This messenger must have traveled the one hundred and forty miles from Walla Walla to the Dalles on one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The historian, on page 535, gives the communication of Governor Abernethy to the Legislative Assembly of Oregon, dated December 8, 1847.  How, then, could Mr. Hinman be at Vancouver on Saturday, December 4, 1847?  And, had he written his letter there on that day, why did it not reach Governor Abernethy two or three days in advance of that of Mr. Douglas, dated December 7th?  But there is on the face of Mr. Hinsman's letter itself conclusive evidence that <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
055.sgm: date, <HI REND="italics">as given</HI>
055.sgm:, is an error.  He says: "A Frenchman from Walla Walla arrived at my place on last Saturday."  Now, if his letter had been <HI REND="italics">correctly</HI>
055.sgm: dated December 4, 1847, then the "last Saturday" mentioned would have been November 27th, two days before the massacre took place.  It seems plain that Mr. Hinman and the Frenchman arrived at Vancouver Monday evening, December 6th, and that Mr. Hinman wrote his letter that evening, and Mr. Douglas his the next day, as he states.  Upon this supposition Mr. Hinman could correctly say, "the horrible massacre that took place at Wailatpu last Monday."  It may be that the figure 6 in Mr. Hinman's letter was mistaken for the figure 4; or it may have been a typographical error in publishing the letter; or Mr. Hinman, in the excitement of the moment, may have mistaken the date.  That there was a mistake in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Would an impartial historian have made so gross a mistake as this against any man of respectable standing, whom he accused of the most atrocious crime?  Would he have seized upon this discrepancy in dates as evidence, without careful investigation?  An impartial historian will put himself on the side of the accused when weighing and scrutinizing testimony, however guilty he may think him to be.  He will not form an opinion that the accused is guilty unless he, the impartial historian, thinks the good and legitimate evidence amply sufficient; and therefore, in his view, he need not rely, <HI REND="italics">even in part</HI>
055.sgm:<P>It seems that a public meeting was held in Oregon on the 18th of February, 1841, at which a committee of nine persons was chosen "to form a constitution and draft a code of laws"; and that the Rev. F.N. Blanchet was one of this committee.  At an adjourned meeting, June 11, 1841, the historian says:<LB><HI REND="italics">His Jesuitical Reverence</HI>
055.sgm:, F. N. Blanchet, was excused from serving on the committee, at his own request.  The settlers and uninitiated were informed by his reverence that he was unaccustomed to make laws for the people, and did not understand how to proceed; while <HI REND="italics">divide and conquer</HI>
055.sgm:, the policy adopted by the Hudson's Bay Company, was entered into with heart and soul by this <HI REND="italics">Reverend Father</HI>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Now, without regard to the question of motive, why should the historian apply derisive epithets to the accused at any stage of the inquiry, and more especially before the author had submitted his proofs?  In other words, would any impartial and enlightened historian seek, by the use of such epithets, to prejudice his readers against the accused <HI REND="italics">in advance</HI>
055.sgm:, and before the testimony was submitted?  It will be seen that the writer emphasizes the phrase " <HI REND="italics">His Jesuitical Reverence</HI>
055.sgm:<P>In reference to the act in regard to slavery, free negroes, and mulattoes, I find these entries in the journal of the House of Representatives, July 1 and 3, 1845 ("Oregon Laws and Archives," pages 83 and 85):</P>
055.sgm:<P>Mr. Garrison introduced a bill to repeal the several acts in regard to negroes in Oregon....</P>
055.sgm:<P>The House went into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Straight in the chair.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When the Committee rose, the Chairman reported that the Committee had had under consideration:</P>
055.sgm:<P>The bill to divorce M.J. Rice;</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The act to repeal the several acts on slavery; An act to fix the time and place of the sittings of the Legislature; An act to divorce F. Hathaway; also, The report of the Committee on Revision, which had been adopted.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Report was received; and the bill to divorce F. Hathaway was read a third time, and passed; also, the bill to divorce M. J. Rice; also, the bill concerning acts on slavery.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Thus, the act which Mr. Gray asserts could not be executed was repealed about one year <HI REND="italics">before</HI>
055.sgm:<P>ELECTED JUDGE OF THE SUPREME COURT--STRANGE RESOLUTION--JESSE APPLEGATE. On the 18th of August, 1845, I was elected by the House of Representatives Judge of the Supreme Court of Oregon.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 4th of December, 1845, the House, on motion of Mr. Gray, passed this resolution:<LB><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:<P>To this strange and singular resolution I made a firm but respectful answer, declining to decide in advance, and before proper cases came up before the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On the 12th of December, 1845, the Speaker informed the House that he had communications from the Supreme Judge, which he had been requested to present to the House.  The communications were read and referred to the Committee on the Judiciary.  On the same day Mr. McCarver, from the Judiciary Committee, reported back the communications from the Supreme Judge, which were then referred to a select committee of five, consisting of Messrs. Gray, Hendrick, Garrison, McClure, and McCarver. ("Oregon Laws and Archives," 140-'41.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>There is no further mention of these communications in the Journal, as no report was ever made by this select committee.  There was not a single lawyer among the members of 1845; and it is quite probable that this committee found it very difficult to coerce a Supreme Court to decide questions of law before cases were properly brought before it.</P>
055.sgm:<P>My extracts from the laws of 1844 are taken from "Oregon Laws and Archives, by L. F. Grover, Commissioner," except the act in regard to slavery, and the 4th section of the act on ways and means, which latter is found in Gray's "Oregon," 395, as part of Dr. White's report to the Secretary of War.  These two acts are not found in Grover's compilation.  The act in regard to slavery, free negroes, and mulattoes is a certified copy from the original on file in the office of the Secretary of State.  My references to the Journals of 1844 and 1845 are to the same compilation.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the summer and early fall of 1846 Jesse Applegate, at his own expense as I then understood, opened a new wagon-road into the Willamette valley at its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I left him in Oregon in 1848.  He was then a rich man, for that time and that country.  I did not see him again until 1872, a period of nearly twenty-four years.  In the mean time he had become a gray-headed old man.  He and myself are near the same age, he being about two years the younger.  One day, without my knowing that he was in California, he walked into the Pacific Bank in San Francisco.  I knew, from the serious expression of his face, that he was an old friend; but, for the moment, I could not place him or call his name.  He was so much affected that his eyes filled with tears, and he could not speak.  I shook his hand cordially, invited him to sit down, and sat down by him, looking him full in the face one moment, when it came into my mind that he was my old friend, and I exclaimed, "Applegate!" and we embraced like brothers.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We talked about one hour, and in this conversation he gave me his history since I left Oregon.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:removed to the Umpqua valley; where for a time he had fine lands, stock, and other property.  At length he determined to go into the mercantile business, for which he had little or no capacity.  Said he: "To make a long story short, I did business upon this theory.  I sold my goods on credit to those who <HI REND="italics">needed them most</HI>
055.sgm:, not to those who were <HI REND="italics">able to pay</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Any one knowing Jesse Applegate as I do would at once recognize the truth of this statement.  It was just like the man.  His fine intellect and his experience in life said no; but his generous heart said yes; and that kind heart of his overruled his better judgment.  In his old age his fortune is gone; but his true friends only admire and love him the more in the hour of misfortune.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In starting from Missouri to come to this country in 1843, Mr. Applegate announced to his traveling companions, as we have been credibly informed, that he meant to drive the Hudson's Bay Company from the country.  To reach the country independent of them, he had sold or mortgaged his cattle to get supplies at Walla Walla.  On arriving at Vancouver, he found Dr. McLoughlin to be much of a gentleman, and disposed to aid him in every way he could.  The Doctor advised him to keep his cattle, and gave him employment as a surveyor, and credit for all he required.  This kind treatment closed Mr. Applegate's open statements of opposition to the Company, and secured his friendship and his influence to keep his Missouri friends from doing violence to them.  He carried this kind feeling for them into the Legislative Committee. (Gray, pages 421-'22.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>As already stated, a portion of the immigrants of 1843 left their cattle at Walla Walla.  This they did under an agreement with Mr. McKinlay, then in charge of the fort, that we should have the same number and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On arriving at Vancouver, Mr. Applegate, no doubt, found a very different state of things from what he anticipated when starting from Missouri.  He did find Dr. McLoughlin and Mr. Douglas to be much of gentlemen; for it was very difficult indeed for any man, who was himself a gentleman, to keep the company of those two men, and not find out that they were both gentlemen in the true sense of that term.  Mr. Applegate no doubt concluded that, if these men were really opposed to American immigrants, they took the most extraordinary method of showing it.  That Mr. Applegate purchased of the Company at Vancouver some supplies on credit is very probable, because he was amply good for all he engaged to pay.  He was honesty personified, and was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>THE ACT TO PROHIBIT THE INTRODUCTION, MANUFACTURE, SALE, AND BARTER OF ARDENT SPIRITS. I have already mentioned (page 181) the happy condition of society in Oregon, and the causes which produced it.  This only continued until the beginning of 1847.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The act of 1844 to prohibit the introduction, manufacture, sale, and barter of ardent spirits was amended by the House of Representatives of 1845.  The same body drew up and submitted to the people, for their approval or rejection, a new and amended organic law, which was adopted, and which conferred upon the Legislature the power to pass laws to <HI REND="italics">regulate</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The amendatory act is incorrectly given by Mr. Gray on pages 440-41, by omitting the first section entirely.  The first section of the original act was amended by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Section four of the <HI REND="italics">original</HI>
055.sgm:<P>SECTION 4.  That it shall be the duty of all sheriffs, judges, justices of the peace, constables, and other officers, when they have reason to believe that this act has been violated, to give notice thereof to some justice of the peace or judge of a court, who shall immediately issue his warrant and cause the offending party to be arrested; and if such officer has jurisdiction of such case, he shall proceed to try such offender without delay, and give judgment accordingly; but if such officer have no jurisdiction to try such case, he shall, if the party be guilty, bind him over to appear before the next Circuit Court.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This section was stricken out, and the following inserted in its stead:</P>
055.sgm:<P>SECTION 4.  Whenever it shall come to the knowledge of any officer of this government, or any private citizen, that any kind of spirituous liquors are being distilled or manufactured in Oregon, they are hereby authorized and required to proceed to the place where such illicit manufacture is known to exist, and seize the distilling apparatus, and deliver the same to the nearest district judge or justice of the peace, whose duty it shall be immediately to issue his warrant, and cause the house and premises of the person against whom such warrant shall be issued to be further searched; and in case any kind of spirituous liquors are found in or about said premises, or any implements or apparatus that have the appearance of having been used or constructed for the purpose of manufacturing any kind of spirituous liquors, the officer who shall have been duly authorized to execute such warrant shall seize all such apparatus, implements, and spirituous liquors, and deliver the same to the judge or justice of the peace who issued the said warrant.  Said officer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>It will be readily seen that these amendments radically changed the original act, in several most material respects.  By the amendment to the second section of the act, it was made a criminal offense to give away ardent spirits.  This would prevent the master of a ship entering the waters of Oregon from giving his seamen their usual daily allowance of liquor while the vessel remained within our jurisdiction.  So, a private citizen, without the advice of a physician, could not give the article to any one, for any purpose, or under any circumstances.</P>
055.sgm:<P>By the provisions of the fourth section as amended, all officers, and even private citizens, were not only authorized, but required (without any warrant having been first issued by a court or judicial officer) to seize the distilling apparatus; and in such case each officer and each private citizen was to be himself the judge of both the fact and law, so far as the duty to seize the apparatus was concerned.  This was giving to each individual citizen of Oregon a most extraordinary power, and making its exercise <HI REND="italics">obligatory</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The fifth section of the amendatory act, as given by the historian, was as follows:</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  All the fines or penalties recovered under this act shall go, one half to the informant and witnesses, and the other half to the officers engaged in arresting and trying the criminal or criminals; and it shall be the duty of all officers in whose hands such fines and penalties may come, to pay over as directed in this section.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>This was a most unusual and extraordinary provision.  To give a portion of the penalty recovered to the informant and arresting officer was not very improper; but to give another portion of such penalty to the <HI REND="italics">witnesses</HI>
055.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">judges</HI>
055.sgm:<P>These objectionable features were so great, in the view of Governor Abernethy, that he recommended a revision of the amendatory act, in his message to the House of Representatives, December 4, 1846.  (Gray, 442.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>The House of Representatives, at the December session, 1846, passed an act entitled "An Act to regulate the manufacture and sale of wine and distilled spirituous liquors."  This act Governor Abernethy returned to the House with his objections, as set forth in his veto message of December 17, 1846.  In this message he said, among other things:</P>
055.sgm:<P>The act lying before me is the first act that has in any manner attempted to legalize the manufacture and sale of ardent spirits.  At the session of the Legislature in June, 1844, an act was passed entitled "An Act to prevent the introduction, sale, and distillation of ardent spirits in Oregon"; and, as far as my knowledge extends, the passage of that act gave general satisfaction to the great majority of the people throughout the Territory.  At the session of December, 1845, several amendments were proposed to the old law, and passed.  The new features given to the bill by those amendments did not accord with the views of the people; the insertion of the words "give" and "gift" in the first and second sections of the bill, they thought, was taking away their rights, as it was considered that a man had a right to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The bill was passed over the veto of the Governor by the following vote: Yeas, Messrs. Boon, Hall, Hembree, Lounsdale, Loony, Meek, Summers, Straight, T. Vault, Williams, and the Speaker--11; Nays, Messrs.  Chamberlain, McDonald, Newell, Peers, and Dr. W. F. Tolmie--5.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Mr. Parker, in a public address to the voters of Clackamas County, in May, 1846, charged that rum was sold at Vancouver contrary to law.  This charge was based upon rumor.  Mr. Douglas, in a communication to the "Oregon Spectator," published June 11, 1846, among other things says:</P>
055.sgm:<P>If, with reference to these supplies, Mr. Parker had told his hearers that her Majesty's ship Modeste, now stationed at Fort Vancouver, had, with other supplies for ship use from the stores of the Hudson's Bay Company, received several casks of rum; or, if, referring to the company's own ships, he had stated that <HI REND="italics">a small allowance of spirits is daily served out to the crews of the company's vessels</HI>
055.sgm:, and that other classes of the company's servants, according to long-accustomed usage, receive on certain <HI REND="italics">rare occasions</HI>
055.sgm: a similar indulgence, he would have told the <HI REND="italics">plain and simple truth</HI>
055.sgm:, and his statement would not this day have been called in question by me.  These acts, which I fully admit, and would on no account attempt to conceal, can not by the fair rules of construction be considered as infringing upon any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:law recognized by the <HI REND="italics">compact which we have agreed to support</HI>
055.sgm:<P>It seems perfectly plain from Mr. Gray's own history, that the final overthrow of this measure was mainly brought about by the following causes:</P>
055.sgm:<P>1.  The extremely harsh and erroneous amendments of 1845.</P>
055.sgm:<P>2.  The mistake of the same body in using the word "regulate" instead of "prohibit" in the organic law of that year.</P>
055.sgm:<P>3.  The sale of rum to the Modeste by the Hudson's Bay Company.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This last act, however excusable it may be considered under the then existing circumstances, gave the opponents a plausible ground of objection.</P>
055.sgm:<P>That the original act was approved by the people is shown by the following extract from the message of Governor Abernethy, dated February 5, 1849:</P>
055.sgm:<P>The proposed amendments to the organic law will come before you for final action: to amend the oath of office, to make the clerks of the different counties recorders of land claims, etc., and to strike out the word "regulate" and insert the word "prohibit" in the clause relating to the sale of ardent spirits.  The last amendment came before the people for a direct vote, and I am happy to say that the people of this Territory decided through the ballot-box, by a majority of the votes given, that the word "prohibit" should be inserted.  This makes the question a very easy one for you to decide upon.  ("Oregon Laws and Archives," pages 273-'4.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>Jesse Applegate was a member of the House of Representatives in 1845, but his name does not appear as voting upon the final passage of the amendatory bill, he having previously resigned his seat.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>TREATY OF JUNE 15, 1846--POLICY OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY--H. A. G. LEE--INDIAN CHARACTER.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 15th of June, 1846, a treaty was concluded between Great Britain and the United States, which acknowledged the sovereignty of our country over that portion of Oregon lying south of the 49th parallel of north latitude.  This was known in Oregon as early as December of that year, as the fact is mentioned in Governor Abernethy's message, dated December 1, 1846.  ("Oregon Laws and Archives," 158.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>The final settlement of the conflicting claims of the two governments in this manner did not surprise any sensible man in Oregon, so far as I remember.  It was what we had every reason to expect.  We knew, to a moral certainty, that the moment we brought our families, cattle, teams, and loaded wagons to the banks of the Columbia River in 1843, the question was practically decided in our favor.  Oregon was not only accessible by land from our contiguous territory, but we had any desirable number of brave, hardy people who were fond of adventure, and perfectly at home in the settlement of new countries.  We could bring into the country ten immigrants for every colonist Great Britain could induce to settle there.  We were masters of the situation, and fully comprehended our position.  This the gentlemen of the Company understood as well as we did.  In repeated conversations with Dr. McLoughlin, soon after my arrival in Oregon, he assured me that he had for some years been convinced that Oregon was destined soon to be occupied by a civilized people.  The reasons for this conclusion were most obvious.  The country, with its fertile soil, extensive valleys, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The colonization of the country, either by British or Americans, would equally destroy the fur-trade, the only legitimate business of the Company.  No doubt the gentlemen connected with that Company thought the title of their own government to Oregon was superior to ours; while we Americans believed we had the better title.  I read carefully the discussion between Mr. Buchanan, our Secretary of State, and the British Minister; and while I thought our country had the better title, neither claim could be properly called a plain indisputable right, because much could be and was said on both sides of the question.  But, while our <HI REND="italics">title</HI>
055.sgm: might be disputed, there was no possible doubt as to the main fact, that <HI REND="italics">we had settled the country</HI>
055.sgm:<P>When the managers of the Company had arrived at the conclusion that Oregon must be inhabited by a civilized race of men, they undoubtedly determined to do all they could reasonably and justly to colonize it with their own people.  These gentlemen were as loyal in their allegiance to their own country as we were to ours, and were prepared to go as far as enlightened love of country would lead them, and no farther.  It is very true that the Company, by expending the larger portion if not all of its large capital, could have colonized the country in advance of the Americans.  But, what proper inducement had the Company thus to sacrifice the property of its stockholders?  Colonization was not its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>But while the managers of the Company, as British subjects, preferred to colonize Oregon with their own people, they were not, as enlightened and Christian men, prepared to use criminal means to accomplish that purpose.  In the address of John McLoughlin and James Douglas to the citizens of Oregon in March, 1845, they say, among other things:</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Hudson's Bay Company made their settlement at Fort Vancouver under the authority of a license from the British Government, in conformity with the provisions of the treaty between Great Britain and the United States of America, which gives them the right of occupying as much land as they require for the operation of their business.  On the faith of that treaty they have made a settlement on the north bank of the Columbia River, they have opened roads and made other improvements at a great outlay of capital; they have held unmolested possession of their improvements for many years, unquestioned by the public officers of either government, who have since the existence of their settlement repeatedly visited it; they have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Permit us to assure you, gentlemen, that it is our earnest wish to maintain a good understanding and to live on friendly terms with every person in the country.  We entertain the highest respect for the provisional organization; and knowing the great good it has effected, as well as the evil it has prevented, we wish it every success, and hope, as we desire, to continue to live in the exercise and interchange of good offices with the framers of that useful institution.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This address was inclosed with the following letter to the Executive Committee of Oregon:</P>
055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VANCOUVER, <HI REND="italics">March</HI>
055.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN: I am sorry to inform you that Mr. Williamson is surveying a piece of land occupied by the Hudson's Bay Company, alongside of this establishment, with a view of taking it as a claim; and, as he is an American citizen, I feel bound, as a matter of courtesy, to make the same known to you, trusting that you will feel justified in taking measures to have him removed from the Hudson's Bay Company's premises, in order that the unanimity now happily subsisting between the American citizens and British subjects residing in this country may not be disturbed or interrupted.  I beg to inclose you a copy of an address to the citizens of Oregon, which will explain to you our situation and the course we are bound to pursue in the event of your declining to interfere.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I am, gentlemen, your obedient, humble servant,</P>
055.sgm:<P>J. McLOUGHLIN.</P>
055.sgm:<P>William Baily, Osborn Russell, P. G. Stewart, Executive Committee of Oregon.</P>
055.sgm:<P>To this letter, the majority of the Executive Committee of Oregon, acting for the whole, made this reply:</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>OREGON CITY, <HI REND="italics">March</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Sir:  We beg to acknowledge the receipt of your letters--one dated 11th of March, and the other 12th of March--accompanied with an address to the citizens of Oregon.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We regret to hear that unwarranted liberties have been taken by an American citizen upon the Hudson's Bay Company's premises, and it affords us great pleasure to learn that the offender, after due reflection, desisted from the insolent and rash measure.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As American citizens, we beg leave to offer you and your esteemedcolleague our most grateful thanks for the kind and candid manner in which you have treated this matter, as we are aware that an infringement on the rights of the Hudson's Bay Company in this country, by an American citizen, is a breach of the laws of the United States, by setting at naught her most solemn treaties with Great Britain.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As representatives of the citizens of Oregon, we beg your acceptance of our sincere acknowledgements of the obligations we are under to yourself and your honorable associate for the high regard you have manifested for the authorities of our provisional government, and the special anxiety you have ever shown for our peace and prosperity; and we assure you that we consider ourselves in duty bound to use every exertion in our power to put down every cause of disturbance, as well as to promote the amicable intercourse and kind feelings hitherto existing between ourselves and the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company, until the United States shall extend its jurisdiction over us, and our authority ceases to exist.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We have the honor to be, sir, your most obedient servants,</P>
055.sgm:<P>Osborn Russell,</P>
055.sgm:<P>John McLoughlin, Esq.<HSEP>P. G. Stewart.</P>
055.sgm:<P>These papers appear in Gray's "Oregon," pages 409-'11, as a portion of Dr. White's report to the Secretary of War.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This attempt to locate a claim in the vicinity of Vancouver was made by Williamson and Alderman.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I have given these extracts from the address to the citizens of Oregon, that the then managers of the Hudson's Bay Company might speak for themselves; and I have given the reply of Messrs.  Russell and Stewart, of the Executive Committee, to show the opinion of those intelligent, calm, and faithful American officers upon the general subject.</P>
055.sgm:<P>That the facts stated in the address are true, there can be no reasonable doubt.  The facts were all within the personal knowledge of Dr. McLoughlin and Mr. Douglas, and they could not be mistaken about them.  If untrue, then they deliberately and knowingly made false statements.  To make statements that could be so readily contradicted by the people of Oregon, if untrue, would have been the greatest folly.  Besides, the high characters of those gentleman, especially that of Dr. McLoughlin, forbids such inference.  Dr. McLoughlin, during his long and active life, gave such conclusive proofs of the possession of the most exalted virtue, that no man of respectable ability and good character would at this late day question his integrity or doubt his statement of facts within his own knowledge.  He voluntarily became, and afterward died, an American citizen.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But the truth of their statements, especially that one which declares that "they had given the protection of their influence over the native tribes to every person <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>It is true, some thefts were committed by the Indians upon the immigrants; but I apprehend that these were not more numerous or common than usual with Indians under like circumstances.  While it is not my intention to enter at large into the subject, I will give an extract from the long letter of H. A. G. Lee to Dr. E. White, assistant Indian agent, dated Oregon City, March 4, 1845.  It is, in my judgment, the most sensible and just description of Indian character I have ever seen in so few words.  After stating, among other things, that "avarice is doubtless the ruling passion of most Indians," the writer goes on to say:</P>
055.sgm:<P>The lawless bands along the river, from Fort Walla Walla to the Dalles, are still troublesome to the immigrants; and the immigrants are still very imprudent in breaking off into small parties, just when they should remain united.  The Indians are tempted by the unguarded and defenseless state of the immigrants, and avail themselves of the opportunity to gratify their cupidity.  Here allow me to suggest a thought.  These robbers furnish us a true minature likeness of the whole Indian population, whenever they fail to obtain such things as they wish in exchange for such as they have to give.  These are robbers now, because they have nothing to give; all others will be robbers when, with what they have to give, they can not procure what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Hitherto, the immigrants have had no serious difficulty in passing through the territory of these tribes; but that their passage is becoming more and more a subject of interest to the Indians is abundantly manifest.  They collect about the road from every part of the country, and have looked on with amazement; but the novelty of the scene is fast losing its power to hold in check their baser passions.  The next immigration will, in all probability, call forth developments of Indian character which have been almost denied an existence among these people.  Indeed, sir, had you not taken the precaution to conciliate their good feelings and friendship toward the whites just at the time they were meeting each other, it is to be doubted whether there had not been some serious difficulties.  Individuals on both sides have been mutually provoked and exasperated during the passage of each immigration, and these cases are constantly multiplying.  Much prudence is required on the part of the whites, and unfortunately they have very little by the time they reach the Columbia Valley.  Some of the late immigrants, losing their horses and very naturally supposing them stolen by the Indians, went to the bands of horses owned by the Indians and took as many as they wished.  You are too well acquainted with Indians to suppose that such a course can be persisted in without producing serious results.  (Gray's "Oregon," pages 414-416.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>Governor Abernethy, in his message to the Legislative Assembly of Oregon under date of December 7, 1847, says:</P>
055.sgm:<P>Our relation with the Indians becomes every year more embarrassing.  They see the white man occupying their lands, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>We were delicately situated in Oregon up to near the close of 1846, when news of the treaty between Great Britain and the United States reached us.  We knew that under former treaties the citizens and subjects of both governments were privileged to occupy the country jointly; but that joint occupation of the territory did not mean joint occupation of the same tract of land or of the same premises, but the party first in possession was entitled to continue it until the question of sovereignty should be settled.  Our community was composed of American citizens and British subjects, intermingled together as neighbors, with all their respective national attachments,manners, and prejudices; and we had our full share of reckless adventurers and other bad men.  The extremists and ultras of both sides would have brought us into armed conflict, and perhaps <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>It was most fortunate for us that the executive office of our little provisional government was at all times filled, not only by Americans, but by those who were well fitted for that position, both as to capacity and conciliatory firmness.  I have already spoken of Osborn Russell and P. G. Stewart, who acted as the Executive Committee during part of the years 1844 and 1845.  They were admirable men for that position.  They were succeeded by George Abernethy, who filled the position until the provisional organization was superseded by the regular Territorial government, under the act of Congress of August 14, 1848.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Governor Abernethy was precisely fitted for the position in every respect.  Though he had no regular legal education, he was a man of admirable good sense, of calm, dispassionate disposition, of amiable, gentle manners, and above the influences of passion and prejudice.  He did his duty most faithfully to the utmost of his ability; and his ability was ample for that time and that country.  He fully comprehended the exact situation, and acted upon the maxim, "Make haste slowly," believing that such was not only the best policy, but the best justice.  Time amply vindicated the wisdom and efficiency of the course he pursued.  We attained all our hopes and wishes by peaceful means.  "Peace hath her triumphs," greater than those of war, because the triumphs of peace cost so much less.  It is a matter of doubt whether, in the settlement of any portion of America by the whites, any greater wisdom, forbearance, and good sense have been shown, except in the celebrated case of William Penn.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>MASSACRE OF DR. WHITMAN AND OTHERS--INDIAN WAR--ITS RESULT. On Monday, November 29, 1847, the horrible massacre of Dr. Marcus Whitman, his lady, and others, by the Cayuse Indians, took place; which event, in the just language of Mr. Douglas, was "one of the most atrocious which darken the annals of Indian crime."  Within a few days other peaceful Americans were slaughtered, until the whole number of victims amounted to from twelve to fifteen.  This painful event was made known at Oregon City on December 8, 1847, as already stated.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I knew Dr. Whitman well; I first saw him at the rendezvous near the western line of Missouri, in May, 1843; saw him again at Fort Hall; and again at his own mission in the fall of that year, as already stated.  I remember that the first I heard of the false and ungrateful charge made by a portion of our immigrants (an account of which I have already given) was from his own lips.  I was standing near his house when he came to me with the painful expression of deep concern upon his countenance, and asked me to come with him to his room.  I did so, and found one or two other gentlemen there.  He was deeply wounded, as he had ample cause to be, by this unjustifiable conduct of some of our people.  He stated to us the facts.  I again saw him at my home in the Tualatin Plains in 1844.  He called at my house, and, finding I was in the woods at work, he came to me there.  This was the last time I ever saw him.  Our relations were of the most cordial and friendly character, and I had the greatest respect for him.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I consider Dr. Whitman to have been a brave, kind, devoted, and intrepid spirit, without malice and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:without reproach.  In my best judgment, he made greater sacrifices, endured more hardships, and encountered more perils for Oregon than any other one man; and his services were practically more efficient than those of any other, except perhaps those of Dr. Linn, United States Senator from Missouri.  I say <HI REND="italics">perhaps</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The news of this bloody event thrilled and roused our people at once; and within a very short time, considering the season and other circumstances, we raised an army of some five hundred brave and hardy men, and marched them into the enemy's country.  Several battles were fought, the result of which is well and concisely stated by Governor Abernethy, in his message to the Legislative Assembly of Oregon, under date of February 5, 1849:</P>
055.sgm:<P>I am happy to inform you that, through aid of the Territory to go in pursuit of the murderers and their allies, and of those who contributed so liberally to the support of our fellow citizens in the field, the war has been brought to a successful termination.  It is true that the Indians engaged in the massacre were not captured and punished; they were, however, driven from their homes, their country taken possession of, and they made to understand that the power of the white man is far superior to their own.  The Indians have a large scope of country to roam over, all of which they were well acquainted with, knew every pass, and by this knowledge could escape the punishment they so justly merited.  In view of this the troops were recalled and disbanded early in July last, leaving a small force under the command of Captain Martin to keep possession of the post at Wailatpu, and a few men at Woscopum.  Captain Martin remained at Wailatpu until the middle of September, when the time for which his men had enlisted expired.  He however, before leaving, sent a party to bring in the last company of emigrants.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>The appearance of so many armed men among the Indians in their own country had a very salutary effect on them; this is seen by their refusing to unite with the Cayuse Indians, by the safety with which the immigration passed through the Indian country the past season.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Heretofore robberies have been committed and insults offered to Americans as they would pass along, burdened with their families and goods, and worn down with the fatigues of a long journey, and this was on the increase; each successive immigration suffered more than the preceding one.  But this year no molestation was offered in any way.  On the contrary, every assistance was rendered by the Indians in crossing rivers, for a reasonable compensation.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Having learned the power and ability of the Americans, I trust the necessity of calling on our citizens to punish them hereafter will be obviated.  ("Oregon Laws and Archives," page 272.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>This attack of the Indians was attributed by some persons, and especially by Mr. Spaulding, to the instigation of the Catholic missionaries in that country.  I thought the charge most unjust, and think so still.  The charge was too horrible in its very nature to be believed unless the evidence was conclusive beyond a reasonable doubt.  There were most ample grounds upon which to account for the massacre, without accusing these missionaries of that horrible crime.  Mr. Spaulding and myself agreed to discuss the matter through the columns of a small semi-monthly newspaper, published by Mr. Griffin, and several numbers were written and published by each of us; but the discovery of the gold mines in California put a stop to the discussion.</P>
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055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.<LB>DISCOVERY OF GOLD IN CALIFORNIA--DETERMINE TO GO TO THE MINES--ORGANIZE A WAGON-PARTY.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>I HAD been a member of the Legislative Committee of 1844, had taken a leading part in that little body, and had done what I considered my fair proportion of the work, under all the then existing circumstances.  We had adopted a code of laws, which, though imperfect, was ample for that time and that country.  I looked forward to the speedy settlement of the question of sovereignty in our favor, and it was so settled within two years thereafter.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As before stated, I went to Oregon to accomplish three purposes.  I had already assisted to lay the foundation of a great American community on the shores of the Pacific, and the trip across the Plains had fully restored the health of Mrs. Burnett.  There was still one great end to attain--the payment of my debts.  I had a family of eight persons to support, and a large amount of old indebtedness to pay.  My debts were just, and I believed in the great maxim of the law, that "a man must be just before he is generous."  Had the <HI REND="italics">essential</HI>
055.sgm: interest of a large body of my fellow men, in my judgement, required further sacrifices, I would have made them most cheerfully.  But, the foundation of a great community on this coast having been laid, all else would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The obligation to support my family and pay my debts was sacred with me; and I therefore gave the larger portion of my time to my own private affairs so long as I remained in Oregon.  I did not then foresee the discovery of gold in California; and for this reason my only chance to pay, so far as I could see, was to remain and labor in Oregon.  I had not the slightest idea of leaving that country until the summer of 1848.  Before I left, I had paid a small portion of my old indebtedness.  I always had faith that I should ultimately pay every dollar.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the month of July, 1848 (if I remember correctly), the news of the discovery of gold in California reached Oregon.  It passed from San Francisco to Honolulu, thence to Nesqualy, and thence to Fort Vancouver.  At that very time there was a vessel from San Francisco in the Willamette River, loading with flour, the master of which knew the fact but concealed it from our people for speculative reasons, until the news was made public by the gentlemen connected with the Hudson's Bay Company.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This extraordinary news created the most intense excitement throughout Oregon.  Scarcely anything else was spoken of.  We had vanquished the Indians, and that war for the time was almost forgotten.  We did not know of the then late treaty of peace between Mexico and the United States; but we were aware of the fact that our Government had possession of California; and we knew, to a moral certainty, that it would never be given up.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Many of our people at once believed the reported discovery to be true, and speedily left for the gold mines <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>These accounts were so new and extraordinary to us at that time, that I had my doubts as to their truth, until I had evidence satisfactory to me.  I did not jump to conclusions, like some people; but when I saw a letter which had been written in California by Ex-Governor Lilburn W. Boggs, formerly of Missouri, to his brother-in-law Colonel Boon of Oregon, I was fully satisfied.  I had known Governor Boggs since 1821, was familiar with his handwriting, and knew Colonel Boon; and there was no reasonable cause to doubt.  This letter I read about the last of August, 1848.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I saw my opportunity, and at once consulted with my wife. I told her I thought that it was our duty to separate again for a time, though we had promised each other, after our long separation of fourteen months during our early married life, that we would not separate again.  I said that this was a new and special case, never anticipated by us; that it was the only certain opportunity to get out of debt within a reasonable time, and I thought it my duty to make the effort.  She consented, and I came to California, and succeeded beyond my expectations.  I paid all my debts, principal and interest, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>When I had determined to come to California, I at once set to work to prepare for the journey.  All who preceded me had gone with pack-animals; but it occurred to me that we might be able to make the trip with wagons.  I went at once to see Dr. McLoughlin, and asked his opinion of its practicability.  Without hesitation he replied that he thought we could succeed, and recommended old Thomas McKay for pilot.  No wagons had ever passed between Oregon and California.  Thomas Mckay had made the trip several times with pack-trains, and knew the general nature of the country, and the courses and distances; but he knew of no practicable wagon-route, as he had only traveled with pack-animals.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This was about the first of September, 1848.  I at once went into the streets of Oregon City, and proposed the immediate organization of a wagon-company.  The proposition was received with decided favor; and in eight days we had organized a company of one hundred and fifty stout, robust, energetic, sober men, and fifty wagons and ox-teams, and were off for the gold mines of California.  We had only one family, consisting of the husband, wife, and three of four children.  We had fresh teams, strong wagons, an ample supply of provisions for six months, and a good assortment of mining implements.  I had two wagons and teams, and two saddle-horses; and I took plank in the bottoms of my wagons, with which I constructed a gold-rocker after we arrived in the mines.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We were not certain that we could go through with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>"Advances of outfits were made to such men as Hastings and his party, Burnett, and other prominent men....</P>
055.sgm:<P>"Those who proposed going to California could readily get all the supplies they required of the company by giving their notes payable in California."  (Gray's "Oregon," 361.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>This is a mistake, so far as I was concerned.  I had plenty of wheat, cattle, and hogs, and did not need advances.  My outfit cost very little additional outlay, for the simple reason that I had my own wagons and teams, except one yoke of oxen which I purchased of Pettigrove, in Portland, and paid for at the time.  I had the two horses that I took with me, and all the provisions that I required, except a few pounds of tea.  I had an ample supply of sugar, for reasons already stated.  I had all the clothes required, and plenty of tools, except two picks which I got a blacksmith in Oregon City to make.  I do not remember to have purchased a single article on credit.</P>
055.sgm:<P>OFF FOR CALIFORNIA--INCIDENTS OF THE TRIP. I was elected captain of the wagon-party, and Thomas McKay was employed as pilot.  We followed the Applegate route to Klamath Lake, where we left that road and took a southern direction.  Thomas <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>We passed over comparatively smooth prairie for some distance.  One evening we encamped at what was then called Goose Lake.  It being late in the season, the water in the lake was very low, muddy, and almost putrid.  Vast flocks of pelicans were visiting this lake at that time, on their way south.  I remember that we killed one on the wing with a rifle.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The water being so bad, we drank very little, and left early next morning.  We traveled over prairie some twenty miles toward a heavy body of timber in the distance, then entered a rocky cedar-grove about six miles in width.  As our horses were not shod, their feet became sore and tender while passing over this rough road.  We then entered a vast forest of beautiful pines.  Our pilot told us that, if he was not mistaken, we should find in the pine-timber an Indian trail; and, sure enough, we soon came to a plain horse-path through the open forest.  We followed this trail until sunset, and encamped in a small, dry prairie, having traveled all day beneath a hot October sun without water.  Our little party were sober, solemn, and silent.  No one ate anything except myself, and I only ate a very small piece of cold bread.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We left this dry and desolate camp early next morning.  About 10 o'clock one of our party saw a deer, and followed it to a beautiful little stream of water, flowing from the hills into the forest.  We spent the remainder of the day on the banks of this clear branch, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>We left next morning, thoroughly refreshed and rested; and we had not traveled more than ten miles when we came in sight of Pitt River, a tributary of the Sacramento.  It was here but a small creek, with a valley about half a mile wide.  When we had approached near the stream, to our utter surprise and astonishment, we found a new wagon-road.  Who made this road we could not at first imagine. A considerable number of those coming to California with pack-animals decided to follow our trail, rather than come by the usual pack-route. These packers had overtaken us the preceding evening, and were with us when discovered this new wagon-road.  It so happened that one of them had been in California, and knew old Peter Lassen.  This man was a sensible fellow, and at once gave it as his opinion that this road had been made by a small party of immigrants whom Lassen had persuaded to come to California by a new route that would enter the great valley of the Sacramento at or near Lassen's rancho. This conjectural explanation proved to be the true one.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>So soon as these packers found this road, they left us.  No amount of argument could induce them to remain with us.  They thought our progress too slow.  This left our little party of road-hunters alone in a wild Indian country, the wagons being some distance behind.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We followed the new road slowly.  One day, while passing through open pine-woods, we saw an Indian, some two hundred yards ahead of us.  He was intent on hunting, and did not see us until we were within a hundred yards, charging down upon him with our horses at full speed.  He saw that escape by flight was impossible; so he hid under a clump of bushes.  We soon came up, and by signs ordered him to come out from his place of concealment.  This command he understood and promptly obeyed.  He was a stout, active young man, apparently twenty-five years of age, and had a large gray squirrel under his belt, which he had killed with his bow and arrow.  He evidently feared that we would take his life; but we treated him kindly, spent some time conversing with him as well as we could by signs, and then left him in peace.</P>
055.sgm:<P>From the point where we struck the Lassen road, it continued down the river in a western direction ten or fifteen miles until the river turned to the south and ran through a can&tilde;on, the road ascending the tall hills, and continuing about west for twenty to thirty miles, when it came again to and crossed the river.  The same day that we saw the Indian we encamped, after dark, on a high bluff above the river.  We had had no water to drink since morning, and had traveled late in the hope of finding a good encampment.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The night was so dark, and the bluff was so steep and rough, that we feared to attempt to go to the river for water, though we could distinctly hear the roar of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The next morning we left early, and followed the road to the crossing of the river, where we arrived about noon.  Here we spent the remainder of that day.  The valley at this point was about a mile and a half wide, and without timber; and the descent into it was down a tall hill, which was not only steep, but rocky and heavily timbered.  In the middle of this valley there was a solitary ridge about a mile long and a quarter of a mile wide at its base, and some two hundred feet high, covered with rocks of various sizes.  We determined to discover, if we could, a new and easier route down the hill.  For this purpose we ascended this ridge, from the summit of which we could have an excellent view of the face of the hill, down which our wagons must come.</P>
055.sgm:<P>While we were quietly seated upon the rocks, we saw an Indian emerge from the edge of the timber at the foot of the hill, about three fourths of a mile distant, and start in a brisk run across the intervening prairie toward us.  I directed the men to sit perfectly still until the Indian should be hidden from our view, and then to separate, and let him fall into the ambush.  We occupied the highest point of this lonely ridge, and we knew he would make for the same spot, for the purpose of overlooking our camp.  We waited until he came to the foot of the ridge, from which position he could not see us; and then we divided our men into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the suddenness and completeness of the surprise, the old hero was as brave and cool as possible.  I had with me only an axe with which to blaze the new and better way, in case we found it, and was at first some little distance from the Indian.  As I came toward him with the axe on my shoulder, he made the most vehement motions for me to stop and not come any nearer.  I saw he was apprehensive that I would take off his head with the axe, and at once stopped and threw it aside.  At first he would allow no one to come near him, but coolly wet his fingers with his tongue, and then deliberately dipped them into the sand at the foot of the rock on which he sat; and, with his trusty bow and arrow in his hands, he looked the men full in the face, as much as to say: "I know you have me in your power; but I wish you to understand that I am prepared to sell my life as dearly as possible."  I never saw a greater display of calm, heroic, and determined courage than was shown by this old Indian.  He was much braver than the young Indian we had seen the day before.</P>
055.sgm:<P>One of our men, who was a blustering fellow and who was for displaying his courage when there was no danger, proposed that we should kill the old Indian.  I at once put a damper upon that cowardly proposition, by stating to the fellow that if he wanted to kill the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>After some time, we were permitted one at a time to approach him.  We offered him the pipe of peace, which he accepted.  He would let our men look at his bow and arrows one at a time, never parting with both of them at once.  He was evidently suspicious of treachery. We staid with him some time, treating him kindly, and then left him sitting on his rock.  This was the last we saw of him.  We considered this mode of treating the Indians the most judicious, as it displayed our power and at the same time our magnanimity.  We proved that we intended no harm to them, but were mere passers through their country.  They evidently appreciated our motives, and the result was, that we had not the slightest difficulty with the Indians.</P>
055.sgm:<P>After crossing the river, the road bore south; it being impossible to follow down the stream, as the mountains came too close to it.  Next morning we left our camp and followed the road south about ten miles, when we came to a beautiful grassy valley, covered with scattering pine-timber.  This valley was about two miles wide where the road struck it, and ran west, the very direction we wished to go.  It seemed a defile passing at right angles through the Sierra Nevada Mountains, as if designed for a level road into the Sacramento valley.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We were much pleased at the prospect, and followed this splendid road rapidly about eight miles, when, to our great mortification, we came to the termination of this lovely valley in front of a tall, steep mountain, which could not be ascended except by some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>This was a perplexing and distressing situation.  Our own pilot did not like this route, as it was not going in the right direction.  How to get out of this line of travel, and get again upon the river, was the question.  We spent the greater part of one day in exploring a new route, but found it impracticable.  In our explorations, we found a lava-bed some two miles wide.  It was clear to us that old Peter Lassen was lost, except as to courses, and was wholly unacquainted with the particular route he was going.  Our own pilot knew about as little as Lassen, if not less.  Our wagons, we knew, would soon overtake us; and we determined to follow Lassen's road ten or fifteen miles farther, to see if it turned west.  Several of us started on foot, and found that the road, after leaving the valley, went south about ten miles, and then turned due west, running through open pine-timber and over good ground.  We returned to camp in the night, and decided that we would follow Lassen's road at all hazards.  We awaited the arrival of our wagons, and then set forward.  We found the road an excellent one, going in the right direction; and we soon found ourselves upon the summit of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The summit was almost a dead level, covered with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>While on Pitt River, we knew from the camp-fires that Lassen's party had ten wagons; and from all appearances we were pretty sure that they were some thirty days ahead of us.</P>
055.sgm:<P>OVERTAKE PETER LASSEN AND HIS PARTY--ARRIVAL IN THE SACRAMENTO VALLEY. We pressed on vigorously, and soon reached the wide strip of magnificent pine-timber found on the western side of the Sierra Nevada.  We had not proceeded many miles, after entering this body of timber, before I saw a large, newly-blazed pine-tree standing near the road.  Approaching I found these words marked in pencil:  "Look under a stone below for a letter."  It was a stone lying upon the surface of the ground, and partly embedded in it.  It had been removed, the letter placed in its bed, and then replaced.  No Indian would ever have thought of looking under that stone for anything.  I did as directed, and found a letter addressed to me by my old friend and law-partner in Oregon City, A. L. Lovejoy, Esq., one of the packers who had gone ahead of us.  The letter stated that they had overtaken old Peter Lassen and a portion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Peter Lassen had met the incoming immigration that fall, and had induced the people belonging to ten wagons to come by his new route.  This route he had not previously explored.  He only had a correct idea of the courses, and some general knowledge of the country through which they must pass.  So long as this small party were traveling through prairies, or open woods, they could make fair progress; but, the moment they came to heavy timber, they had not force enough to open the road.  After reaching the wide strip of timber already mentioned, they converted their ten wagons into ten carts, so that they could make short turns, and thus drive around the fallen timber.  This they found a slow mode of travel.  One half of the party became so incensed against Lassen that his life was in great danger.  The whole party had been without any bread for more than a month, and had during that time lived alone on poor beef.  They were, indeed, objects of pity.  I never saw people so worn down and so emaciated as these poor immigrants.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The people that belonged to five of the carts had abandoned them, packed their poor oxen, and left the other half of the party, a short time before we reached those that remained with the other five carts and with Lassen.  We gave them plenty of provisions, and told them to follow us, and we would open the way ourselves.  Of course, they greatly rejoiced.  How their sunken eyes sparkled with delight!  Our pilot, Thomas McKay, overtook an old woman on foot, driving before her a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Lassen and our pilot followed the trail of the packers for some twenty or thirty miles, as it passed over good ground, but through heavy timber.  We had from sixty to eighty stout men to open the road, while the others were left to drive the teams.  We plied our axes with skill, vigor and success, and opened the route about as fast as the teams could well follow.</P>
055.sgm:<P>At length the pack-trail descended a long, steep hill, to a creek at the bottom of an immense ravine.  Old Peter Lassen insisted that our wagons should keep on the top of the ridges, and not go down to the water.  When the first portion of the train arrived at this point, they had to stop some time on the summit of the hill.  How to get out of this position without descending into the ravine below was a perplexing question.  Our pilots had been to the creek, and would not let us go down the hill. In looking around for a way out of this dilemma they discovered a strip of ground, about thirty feet wide, between the heads of two immense and impassable ravines, and connecting the ridge we were compelled to leave with another.  It was like an isthmus connecting two continents.  Over this narrow natural bridge we passed in safety.</P>
055.sgm:<P>That evening a large portion of our party encamped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>By daybreak next morning we were off, and had only gone about five miles when we came to the edge of the pine-forest.  From this elevated point we had a most admirable view.  Below us, at the seeming distance of ten, but the real distance of twenty miles, lay the broad and magnificent valley of the Sacramento, gleaming in the bright and genial sunshine; and beyond, and in the dim distance, rose the grand blue outlines of the Coast Range.  The scene was most beautiful to us, thirsty as we were.  How our hearts leaped for joy!  That was our Canaan.  Once in that valley, and our serious difficulties, our doubts and fears, would be among the things of the past.  But the last of our trials was the most severe.  We had still to descend to that desired valley over a very rough road.</P>
055.sgm:<P>From the place where we stood, we could see three tall, narrow, rocky ridges, with deep ravines between, running toward the valley.  Neither our pilots nor any of us knew which of the three ridges to take, and we had no time to explore.  We contemplated the scene for a few moments, and then looked down the ridges for a short time, and chose the middle one at a venture, not knowing what obstructions and sufferings were before us.  We had in our company two classes.  One <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The last camp before the one where a portion of our people had done without water had plenty of grass, fuel, and water.  We had been rapidly descending the western side of the Sierra Nevada for some days before we overtook Lassen and his party; and we knew that we could not be very far from the Sacramento valley.  Besides this evidence, we found the red oaks appearing among the pines; and this was a conclusive proof that we were not far from that valley.  I saw that there was no necessity that the wagons should follow our pilots so closely.  Our true policy would have been to remain where we first found the oak-timber until our pilots had explored and selected the route into the valley.  We could have safely remained at that good camp a month longer than we did.  But one portion of our people had the gold-fever too badly to be controlled.  We who were more patient and cautious were willing that those hasty and ambitious men should go on ahead of us, if they desired to do so.  Our two classes were well matched, like the man's oxen, one of which wanted to do all the work, and the other was perfectly willing that he should.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I had directed the men in charge of my wagons and teams to remain at that good camp until they should receive other orders.  I then assisted to open the road to the natural bridge mentioned.  After that, the road ran through open woods and over good ground to the point where the pines terminated.  I determined to leave the foremost wagons at that point and return on foot to the good camp, where I arrived in the evening.  Next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:morning early I took my best horse and started on after the foremost wagons, deciding that my own wagons and teams should remain where they were until I <HI REND="italics">knew</HI>
055.sgm:<P>I passed on about six miles farther, and came to another huge mass of rock entirely across the top of the ridge.  But in this case the sides of the ridge were not so steep, and the wagons had easily passed across the ravine to the ridge on the right.  Soon, however, the ridges sank down to the surface, leaving no further difficulties in the way except the loose rocks, which lay thick upon the ground.  These rocks were of all sizes, from that of a man's hat to that of a large barrel, and constituted a serious obstruction to loaded wagons.  We could avoid the larger rocks, as they were not so many; but not the smaller ones, as they were numerous and lay thick upon the ground.  In passing over this part of our route two of the wagons were broken down.</P>
055.sgm:<P>About noon I met one of our party who had been to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I arrived at the camp in the valley, near a beautiful stream of water, a little after dark, having traveled that day about thirty-five miles.  I could hear the wagons coming down that rough, rocky hill until midnight.  Some of the people belonging to the foremost wagons had been without water nearly two days.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Next morning I started on foot to meet my wagons, and found them on the middle ridge, this side the first huge mass of rock, about sundown.  They had plenty of water for drinking purposes, and chained up the oxen to the wagons.  Next day they came into camp in good time, without suffering and without loss.</P>
055.sgm:<P>ARRIVE AT THE HOUSE OF PETER LASSEN--ORIGIN OF THE TERM "PROSPECTING"--ARRIVAL IN THE MINES--MINING. We left the first camp in the valley the next morning, and after traveling a distance of eight miles, arrived at the rancho of old Peter Lassen.  The old pilot was in the best of spirits, and killed for us a fat beef; and we remained at his place two or three days, feasting and resting.  All organization in our company ceased upon our arrival in the Sacramento valley.  Each gold-hunter went his own way, to seek his own fortune.  They soon after scattered in various directions.</P>
055.sgm:<P>A day or two after we left Lassen's place, we were surprised and very much amused upon learning that the packers who had left us in such a hurry on Pitt River were coming on behind us.  As stated on page 266, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In passing down the valley, we encamped one evening near the house of an old settler named Potter.  He lived in a very primitive style.  His yard, in front of his abode building, was full of strips of fresh beef, hung upon lines to dry.  He was very talkative and boastful.  He had been in the mines, had employed Indians to work for him, and had grown suddenly rich; and, as his head was naturally light, it had been easily turned.  He came to our camp and talked with us until about midnight.  It was here that I first heard the word "prospecting" used.  At first I could not understand what Potter meant by the term, but I listened patiently to our garrulous guest, until I discovered its meaning.  When gold was first discovered in California, and any one went out searching for new placers, they would say, "He has gone to hunt for new gold-diggings."  But, as this fact had to be so often repeated, some practical, sensible, economical man called the whole process "prospecting."  So perfectly evident was the utility <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>We arrived in a few days at Captain Sutter's Hock Farm, so called from a small tribe of Indians in that vicinity.  I called on the agent, and made some inquiries as to the mines.  He replied that there was no material difference between the different mining localities, so far as he knew.  Those on the Yuba River he knew to be good.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We forded the Feather River a few miles below Hock Farm, and then took up this stream toward the Yuba, and encamped a little before sundown near the rancho of Michael Nye.  Dr. Atkinson, then practicing his profession in the valley, came to our camp.  I inquired of him who resided in that house.  He replied, "Mr. Nye."  "What is his Christian name?"  "Michael."  I had known Michael Nye in Missouri, and my brother-in-law John P. Rogers (who was with me) and Nye had been intimate friends when they were both young men.  We at once called upon Nye at his house.  He received us most kindly.  He and his brother-in-law William Foster, with their families, were living together.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Next morning we left for the Yuba; and, after traveling some eight or ten miles, we arrived at noon on the brow of the hill overlooking Long's Bar.  Below, glowing in the hot sunshine, and in the narrow valley of this lovely and rapid stream, we saw the canvas tents and the cloth shanties of the miners.  There was but one log-cabin in the camp.  There were about eighty men, three women, and five children at this place.  The scene was most beautiful to us.  It was the first mining locality we had ever seen, and here we promptly decided to pitch our tent.  We drove our wagons and teams <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>We arrived at the mines November 5, 1848; and the remainder of the day I spent looking around the camp.  No miner paid the slightest attention to me, or said a word.  They were all too busy.  At last I ventured to ask one of them, whose appearance please me, whether he could see the particles of gold in the dirt.  Though dressed in the garb of a rude miner, he was a gentleman and a scholar.  He politely replied that he could; and, taking a handful of dirt, he blew away the fine dust with his breath, and showed me a scale of gold, about as thick as thin paper, and as large as a flax-seed.  This was entirely new to me.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the evening, when the miners had quit work and returned to their tents and shanties, I found a number of old acquaintances, some from Missouri and others from Oregon.  Among those from Missouri were Dr. John P. Long and his brother Willis, for whom this bar was named.  I had not seen either of them for about six years, though our families were connected by marriage--Dr. Benjamin Long, another brother, having married my youngest sister, Mary Burnett.  I was perfectly at home here.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Next day my brother-in-law John P. Rogers, my nephew Horace Burnett (both of whom had come with me from Oregon), and myself purchased a mining location, fronting on the river about twenty feet, and reaching back to the foot of the hill about fifty feet.  We bought on credit, and agreed to pay for it three hundred dollars in gold dust, at the rate of sixteen dollars per ounce.  We at once unloaded the two wagons, and sent them and the oxen and horses back to Nye's rancho, where we made our headquarters.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>As already stated, I had brought from Oregon new and suitable plank for a rocker, in the bottoms of my wagon-beds.  The only material we had to purchase for our gold-rocker was one small sheet of zinc.  I went to work upon the rocker, which I finished in one day; and then we three set to work on the claim with a will.  I dug the dirt, Horace Burnett rocked the rocker, and John P. Rogers threw the water upon the dirt containing the gold.  Within about three or four days we were making twenty dollars each daily, and we soon paid for our claim.  We rose by daybreak, ate our breakfast by sunrise, worked until noon; then took dinner, went to work again about half-past twelve, quit work at sundown, and slept under a canvas tent on the hard ground.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the summer months the heat was intense in this deep, narrow, rocky, sandy valley.  The mercury would rise at times to 118&deg; in the shade.  Dr. John P. Long told me that the sand and rocks became so hot during the day, that a large dog he had with him would suffer for water rather than go to the river for it before night.  The pain of burned feet was greater to the poor dog than the pain of thirst.  After our arrival the days were not so hot.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This was a new and interesting position to me.  After I had been there a few days I could tell, when the miners quit work in the evening, what success they had had during the day.  When I met a miner with a silent tongue and downcast look, I knew he had not made more than eight or ten dollars; when I met one with a contented but not excited look, I knew he had made from sixteen to twenty dollars; but when I met one with a glowing countenance, and quick, high, vigorous step, so that the rocks were not much if at all in his way, I knew he had made from twenty to fifty dollars.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:His tongue was so flexible and glib that he would not permit me to pass in silence, but must stop me and tell of his success.  Ordinary hands were paid twelve dollars a day, and boarded and lodged by the employer.  I knew one young man who had been paid such wages for some time, but finally became disgusted and declared he would not work for such wages.  It cost a dollar each to have shirts washed, and other things in proportion.  There was no starch in <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
055.sgm:<P>THE DONNER PARTY. During my stay in the mines I was several times at Nye's house, and on one occasion I was there three days.  I became well acquainted with William Foster and his family.  Foster, his wife, and Mrs. Nye were of the Donner party, who suffered so much in the winter of 1846-'7.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Mrs. Nye did not talk much, not being a talkative woman, and being younger than Mrs. Foster, her sister.  Mrs Foster was then about twenty-three years old.  She had a fair education, and possessed the finest narrative powers.  I never met with any one, not even excepting Robert Newell of Oregon, who could narrate events as well as she.  She was not more accurate and full in her narrative, but a better talker, than Newell.  For hour after hour, I would listen in silence to her sad narrative.  Her husband was then in good circumstances, and they had no worldly matter to give them pain but their recollections of the past.  Foster was a man of excellent common sense, and his intellect had not been affected, like those of many others.  His statement was clear, consistent, and intelligible.  In the fall of 1849 I became intimately acquainted with William <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The Donner party consisted of about eighty immigrants, including men, women, and children.  They were so called because the men who bore that name were the leading persons of the party.  They decided for themselves to cross the Sierra Nevada by a new road.  L. W. Hastings, then residing at Sutter's Fort, went out to meet the incoming immigration of that fall, and advised the Donner partynot to attempt to open a new route; but his advice was disregarded.  He returned to the fort and reported the fact to Captain Sutter, who sent out two Indians, with five mules packed with provisions, to meet the party.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The party had arrived at a small lake, since called Donner Lake, situated a short distance from the present site of Truckee City, and some fifteen miles from Lake Tahoe, and had erected two log-cabins upon the margin of Donner Lake, when the Indians arrived with the mules and provisions.  This was in the month of November, 1846.  Up to this time there had been several comparatively light falls of snow.  Foster said he proposed to slaughter all the animals, including the fat mules sent out by Captain Sutter, and save their flesh for food.  This could readily have been done then, and the people could have subsisted until relieved in the spring.  But the immigrants were not in a condition to accept or reject this proposition at once.  They were unacquainted with the climate, could not well understand how snow could fall to the depth of twenty or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>While they were discussing and considering this proposition, a terrible storm came up one evening, and snow fell to the depth of about six feet during the night.  The poor animals fled before the driving storm, and all perished; and next morning there was one wide, desolate waste of snow, and not a carcass could be found.  The little supply of provisions they had on hand, including that sent by Captain Sutter, they saw could not last them long.  They now fully comprehended their dreadful situation.  It was a terrible struggle for existence.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It was soon decided to start a party across the mountains, on snow-shoes.  This party consisted of ten men, including the two Indians, five women, and a boy twelve years old, the brother of Mrs. Foster.  I once knew the names of the eight white men, but at this time I can only remember those of William H. Eddy and William Foster.  The women were Mrs. Foster, Mrs. McCutchin, Mrs.--, then a widow, but subsequently Mrs. Nye, Mrs. Pile, a widow, and Miss Mary--, sister of Mrs. Foster, and subsequently wife of Charles Covillaud, one of the original proprietors of Marysville, so named for her.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This little party left the cabins on snow-shoes, with one suit of clothes each, a few blankets, one axe, one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>For the first few days they made good progress; but while they were comparatively strong they could kill no game, because none could be found, and their provisions were rapidly consumed.  When they had reached the western side of the summit, they encamped, as usual, on the top of the snow.  They would cut logs of green wood about six feet long, and with them make a platform on the snow, and upon this make their fire of dry wood.  Such a foundation would generally last as long as was necessary; but on this occasion it was composed of small logs, as the poor people were too weak from starvation to cut and handle larger ones; and there came up in the evening a driving, blinding snow-storm, which lasted all that night and the next day and night.  New snow fell to the depth of several feet.  They maintained a good fire for a time, to keep themselves from freezing; but the small foundation-logs were soon burnt nearly through, so that the heat of the fire melted the snow beneath, letting them down gradually toward the ground, while the storm above was falling thick and fast.  Toward midnight they found themselves in a circular well in the snow about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Eddy urged them to quit this well of frozen death, as it was impossible to live where they were, with their feet in ice-water.  They all climbed out of the well, spread one blanket on the top of the snow, then seated themselves on this blanket, back to back, and covered their heads with the others.  In this painful position they remained the rest of that night, all the next day and night, and until some time after sunrise the last morning.  During this time four or five of their number perished, one of whom was the boy.  Mrs. Foster spoke of this young hero with the greatest feeling.  His patience and resignation were of the martyr type.  When they were reduced to half a biscuit each, he insisted that she should eat his portion as well as her own; but this she refused.</P>
055.sgm:<P>From this scene of death the survivors proceeded on their melancholy journey down the western side of the mountain.  That evening, after they had encamped and kindled a blazing fire, one of the men, who had borne the day's travel well, suddenly fell down by the fire, where he was warming himself, and expired.  The cold, bracing air and the excitement and exertion of travel had kept him alive during the day; but when he became warm his vital energies ceased.  This is often the case under like circumstances.  I have understood that deaths occurred in this manner among Fremont's men, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The remainder of this suffering party continued their journey.  All the other men dropped off one after another, at intervals, except Eddy and Foster.  When they had almost reached the point of utter despair, Eddy saw a deer, and made a good shot, killing the animal.  This supplied them with food for a few days.  After it was consumed, they met with some Indians, who furnished them with a small quantity of provisions.</P>
055.sgm:<P>At length they arrived at the last encampment, and within six or eight miles of Johnson's rancho, on the eastern side of the Sacramento valley.  Next morning Foster was unable to continue the journey, and refused to make another effort to walk.  Eddy was the stouter man of the two, and he proceeded on his tottering course, leaving Foster and the five women at the camp.  It was all Eddy could do to walk; but, most fortunately, he soon found two friendly Indians, who kindly led him to Johnson's place, Eddy walking between them, with one hand on the shoulder of each Indian.</P>
055.sgm:<P>They arrived at Johnson's house in the afternoon.  Johnson was then a bachelor, but he had a man and his wife living with him.  This lady was an admirable woman, full of humanity, and possessed of excellent sense, firmness, and patience.  She knew from Eddy's condition what the poor sufferers needed.  There were also several families of late immigrants residing temporarily in that vicinity.  About ten men promptly assembled, and started for the camp, taking with them everything that was necessary.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>The relief-men were piloted by the two humane Indians, and reached the camp a little after dark.  Foster said that, when they heard the men coming through the brush toward the camp, the women began to cry most piteously, saying they were enemies coming to kill them; but Foster comforted and pacified them by declaring that the men coming must be friends.  The relief-men soon came up, and were so much affected by the woful spectacle that for some time they said not a word, but only gazed and wept.  The poor creatures before them, hovering around that small camp-fire, had been snowed on and rained on, had been lacerated, starved, and worn down, until they were but breathing skeletons.  The clothes they wore were nothing but filthy rags, and their faces had not been washed or their heads combed for a month; and the intellectual expression of the human countenance had almost vanished.  No case of human suffering could have been more terrible.  No wonder that brave and hardy men wept like children.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Of all the physical evils that waylay and beset the thorny path of human life, none can be more appalling than starvation.  It is not a sudden and violent assault upon the vital powers, that instinctive and intellectual courage may successfully resist; but it is an inexorable undermining and slow wasting away of the physical and mental energies, inch by inch.  No courage, no intellect, no martyr-spirit can possibly withstand this deprivation.  When there is an <HI REND="italics">entire</HI>
055.sgm: deprivation of food it is said that the greatest pangs of hunger are felt on the third day.  After that, the stomach, being entirely empty, contracts to a very small space, and ceases to beg for food; and the sufferer dies from exhaustion, without any violent pain.  But, when there is an insufficient supply of food, the severe pangs of hunger must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The relief-party did everything required for the poor sufferers, and next morning carried them to Johnson's house.  The lady in charge was careful to give them at first a limited quantity of food at a time.  It required all her firmness and patience to resist their passionate entreaties for more food.  When the poor, starved creatures could not persuade they violently abused the good lady because she did not comply with their demands.  Eddy said that he himself abused her in harsh terms.  All this she bore with the kind patience of a good mother, waiting upon a sick and peevish child.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I expressed my surprise to Eddy and Foster that all the women escaped, while eight out of the ten men perished, saying that I supposed it was owing to the fact that the men, especially at the beginning of the journey, had performed most of the labor.  They said that, at the start, the men may have performed a little more labor than the women; but, taken altogether, the women performed more than the men, if there was any difference.  After the men had become too weak to carry the gun, it was carried by the women. Women seem to be more hopeful than men in cases of extreme distress; and their organization seems to be superior to that of men.  A mother will sit up with and wait upon a sick child much longer than the father could possibly do.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Eddy party were about thirty days in making the trip.  Other parties afterward left the cabins, and made their way into the settlement, after losing a considerable portion of their number on the way.  Many died at the cabins from starvation.  Forty-four of the Donner party escaped, and thirty-six perished.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>A LONELY GRAVE--DEATH OF DAVID RAY--JOHN C. MCPHERSON.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The first Sunday after my arrival in the mines, I was strolling on the side of the hill back of the camp, among the lonely pines, when I came suddenly upon a newlymade grave.  At its head there was a rude wooden cross, and from this symbol of Christianity I knew it was the grave of a Catholic.  I never learned anything of the history of the deceased.  He was, most probably, some obscure and humble person.  He had died and was buried before my arrival.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"But the sound of the church-going bell<LB>These valleys and rocks never heard;<LB>Or sighed at the sound of a knell,<LB>Or smiled when a Sabbath appeared."<LB></HI>
055.sgm:<P>Another death occurred in camp, and while I was there.  It was that of David Ray.  He was about thirty-five years of age, and his wife about thirty.  They had five children, the eldest a daughter about twelve.  They started from the State of Indiana in the spring of 1848, intending to locate in some one of the agricultural valleys of California, not then knowing that gold had been discovered. But when they arrived they determined to stop in the mines for a time, and thus came to Long's Bar, on the Yuba River.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Mr. Ray's business partner, Mr. Wright, was about the same age, unmarried, and sober, honest, industrious, and generous.  He assisted Ray to build the only logcabin in the camp, for his wife and children, without charge.  This house was a rude structure of one room, about sixteen feet square, with a clapboard roof, wooden <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>About two weeks after my arrival Mr. Ray was attacked with fever, and died within a week.  Neither he nor his widow had any relatives in California, and all the people of the camp were late acquaintances except Mr. Wright.  Our tent was near Mr. Ray's house, and we soon became acquainted.  He and his wife were devoted Methodists.  She was a small, delicate woman, with a sweet musical voice and an eloquent tongue.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We buried him among the stately pines, in the open woods, where the winds might murmur a solemn and lonely requiem to his memory.  All the people of the camp left their work and attended the burial; and I never witnessed a more sorrowful scene.  There were no tearless eyes in that assemblage.  No clergyman was present; but at the lonely grave of her husband Mrs. Ray made an impromptu address, which affected me so much that I soon wrote out its substance, preserving her own expressions so far as I could remember them.  The following is a copy of what I then wrote:</P>
055.sgm:<P>O David! thou art cold and lifeless.  Little dost thou know the sorrows thy poor and friendless and sickly wife now suffers.  Thou art gone from me and from our children for ever.  Thou wert ever kind to me; you loved me from my girlhood.  O friends! he was a man without reproach, beloved by all who knew him.  He was a just man, honest in all his dealings.  He did unto others as he wished they should do unto him.  He defrauded no one.  He was a pious and steady man; a profane oath had never escaped his lips even from a boy; he was never found at the grog-shop or the gambling-table.  He it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>While in the mines I became acquainted with John C. McPherson, a young, genial spirit from old Scotland.  He was a generous soul, and cared little for wealth.  On Christmas eve he composed a very pretty song, begining "Yuba, dear Yuba."  He has since written many poetical pieces, and many prose communications for the newspapers.  One thing can be said of genial, kindly McPherson, that there is not a particle of malice in his composition.  No one ever thought of suing him for libel, for he never wrote a harsh word of any one, living or dead.  No one then in the mines except McPherson had poetic fire enough in his soul to write a song.  We spent many pleasant evenings together, around the camp-fire, at Long's Bar.</P>
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055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.<LB>LEAVE THE MINES--ARRIVE AT SUTTER'S FORT--BECOME THE AGENT OF JOHN A. SUTTER, JR.--CAPTAIN JOHN A. SUTTER--DISCOVERY OF GOLD.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>I REMAINED in the mines until December 19, 1848.  In the mean time I had sold my wagons and teams, and, altogether, had accumulated means enough to defray my expenses for six months.  I knew that there must be business in my profession, and I found it would take me many long years to make enough in the mines to pay my debts.  I therefore decided to quit the mines, and started with the intent to come to San Francisco; but, upon my arrival at Sutter's Fort, I determined to stop there.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Six of us left the camp at noon in an empty, uncovered wagon, drawn by oxen.  It was a beautiful day, and that evening we drove to Johnson's ranch, which was about forty miles from the Fort. Next morning the oxen were missing, and were not found until about two hours before sunset.  We at once set forward for Sutter's Fort.  The wind commenced blowing hard from the south, and rain began to fall briskly about dark.  About midnight the wind suddenly changed to the north, blowing quite hard and cold, and snow fell to the depth of about three inches.  We had determined <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I found a number of old friends at the Fort; and among them were Major Samuel J. Hensley, Major P. B. Reading, and Dr. William M. Carpenter.  Dr. Carpenter had rented a small room in the Fort, and I proposed that we should keep our offices together, each paying half the rent and other expenses.  As our professions did not clash, he readily assented to this, and we slept in the same rude bed, made by himself.  We boarded at the hotel; and in the morning I cut the wood and made the fire, while the doctor swept out the office and made up the bed.  The doctor made about six hundred dollars a week by his practice and from the sale of medicines.  He charged sixteen dollars for each dose or vial of medicine, or box of pills.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I had only been at the Fort a few days when John A. Sutter, Jr., in whose name the Sutter grant of eleven leagues then stood, proposed to employ me as his attorney and agent.  The terms agreed upon between us were such as his mercantile partner, Major Hensley, thought fair and just.  I was to attend to all of his law business of every kind, sell the lots in Sacramento City, and collect the purchase money; and for these services I was to receive one fourth of the gross proceeds arising from the sale of city lots.  There was a heavy amount of old business to settle up; and, while the labor was certain, the compensation was speculative, none of us then knowing whether the city would be at Sacramento or at Sutterville, a rival place about three miles below.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The city had been partially surveyed and mapped out by Captain William H. Warner, an army officer, who afterward completed the surveys and maps.  Captain John A. Sutter, the original grantee, had conveyed his property, real and personal, to his son John A. Sutter, Jr., in the month of October, 1848.  This was done to prevent one creditor, who threatened to attach the property, from sacrificing the estate, to the injury of the other creditors and the useless ruin of Captain Sutter and his family.  There was no design to defraud the creditors; but, on the contrary, time proved that the course pursued was the wisest and most just, under the circumstances, toward all the creditors.  John A. Sutter, Jr., informed me at once that he was bound, under the agreement with his father, to pay all his just debts at the earliest practicable period.  I saw both the justice and expediency of this arrangement, and set myself to work with energy to accomplish the end intended.  By the middle of August, 1849, the last debt that ever came to my knowledge had been paid.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The history of the settlement of Captain John A. Sutter in the Sacramento valley is so well known that I shall not enter into the subject at large; but, in justice to that old pioneer, who did so much for California, I will state some facts that have not perhaps been fully given by others.  He has lately, I am informed, made and published a statement himself, which I have not seen.  What I state is solely from memory; and, should there be any conflict in our recollections, I must yield to his superior knowledge.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter came to California from Missouri (where he resided for a time) with little capital.  He procured the grant of his eleven leagues of land from the Mexican authorities, went to the Sandwich Islands, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>About the time the veteran pioneer had his rancho well stocked with domestic animals, and his farm fairly under way, and, before he could have possibly paid his debts, the immigrants began to arrive across the plains at his establishment.  They came in weary, hungry, and poor.  He had all the supplies, and they had all the wants and no money.  He was only one, and they were many.  They out-talked and out-voted him.  He could not see them starve.  This no pioneer could stand, and especially a man of his generous nature.  He was compelled, from the very nature of the circumstances and the extreme necessities of the case, to supply their wants, and take in exchange their old wagons and broken-down teams, for which he had no profitable use, and which he could not convert into money.  Being the father of the settlements in the Sacramento valley, he was also obliged to furnish the other settlers with supplies.  Then all the traveling-parties passing through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>It is not at all surprising that he could not save up money enough to pay his debts until after the discovery of the gold-mines.  I am somewhat of a pioneer and business man myself, and I hesitate not to give it as my decided opinion that no man could, under the exact circumstances in which Captain Sutter was placed, have paid those debts before the discovery of gold.</P>
055.sgm:<P>There were very few people then in the country, nearly all of whom were of one class and very poor, engaged in the same pursuits and exposed to a common danger, and, consequently, their friendships became so warm and devoted that one could not refuse to help another when in need.  Property was almost held in common.  How could any pioneer refuse to aid a poor comrade who would fight and die for him when occasion required?  The circumstances of a new country are so different from those of an old one that a different law of social life must prevail.  A pioneer that refused to assist others liberally in the settlement of a new country would be as isolated as Mitchell Gilliam in Oregon, with his tavern-sign hung up before his door, as related in a previous chapter.  Men are men, and they can not resist appeals to their kindness under such circumstances.  This is the reason why so few pioneers ever become rich, and remain so.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Besides, Captain Sutter had a nobler object in view than the mere accumulation of a fortune for himself.  His purpose was to colonize the great valley of the Sacramento.  At the time gold was discovered, he had around him and in his immediate vicinity a number of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The discovery of gold in California is due to Captain Sutter.  I obtained my information on this subject from Mr. Marshall, the actual discoverer, who at the date of the discovery was in the employ of Captain Sutter.  The latter was engaged in erecting a saw-mill, to be propelled by water-power, at Coloma, on the South Fork of the American River some forty miles from Sutter's Fort.  At the site selected the river makes a considerable bend, forming a peninsula from two to three hundred yards wide at the point where the ditch and tail-race were cut across it.  From the river above they cut a ditch about a hundred and fifty yards in length, and there put up the frame of the mill, and put in the flood-gate to let the water upon the wheel.  It became necessary to construct what is called a tail-race, to enable the water to escape freely from the mill to the river below.  The ground through which the ditch and tail-race were cut had a descent of about a hundred and fifty feet to the mile; and the formation was composed of a stratum of sand on the surface about two feet deep, and beneath this was a stratum of clay.  Intermixed with these strata of sand and clay were found rocks of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The plan adopted by Marshall, the superintendent, was to pry up the stones in the line of the tail-race with crowbars, and put them aside during the day; and in the evening to raise the flood-gate, and let the water run down the tail-race all night.  This would wash away the loose clay and sand, but would not remove the rocks.  In the morning the water was shut off, and the men again went to work, putting aside the stones in the bed of the tail-race.  After two or three days all the sand had disappeared, and the water had washed down to the stratum of clay, upon and in which the gold rested. Marshall, one morning after the water had been shut off, was walking along down the bank of the tail-race, when he discovered several pieces of some very bright metal in a little pool of water in the bottom of the race.  It occurred to him at once that it might be gold; and upon gathering it up he was satisfied, from its appearance and weight, that it was gold.  This occurred on the 19th of January, 1848.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Thus, this great discovery was owing to the act of Captain Sutter.  But for that, the gold might have remained undiscovered for a century to come.  No one can tell.  We only know the fact that he was the cause of the discovery.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The discovery of gold at once so excited the people that they promptly left everything for the mines, and no other industry but mining was thought of for a time.  The spectacle of such a sudden destruction of property and change of pursuit was enough to cause much pain to the old pioneer.  Though made rich by the change, he often spoke of it with much feeling, as I was informed upon good authority.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In his treatment of the Indians, Captain Sutter was humane, firm, and just.  I remember well that, in the winter of 1848-'49, the Indians would often call at the Fort, and anxiously inquire for him, to protect them from wrong.  They evidently had the greatest confidence in his justice.  He had been their friend and protector for years; but his power was then gone.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SELLING LOTS IN SACRAMENTO--NECESSITY OF SOME GOVERNMENTAL ORGANIZATION--PUBLIC MEETING AT SACRAMENTO CITY. When I began to sell lots in Sacramento City for John A. Sutter, Jr., early in January, 1849, all the business was done at the Fort, situated about a mile and a half from the river.  There were then only two houses near the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
055.sgm:, as the boat-landing was then called.  One was a rude log-cabin, in which a drinking saloon was kept; and the other, also a log-cabin, was occupied by an excellent old man named Stewart and his family.  Nearly all the first sales were of lots near the Fort; but toward the end of January the lots near the river began to sell most rapidly.  The prices for lots in the same locality were fixed and uniform; and I made it an inflexible rule not to lower the prices for speculators, thus preventing a monopoly of the lots.  I discouraged the purchase of more than four lots by any one person.  I said to those who applied for lots: "You can well afford to buy four lots, and can stand the loss without material injury if the city should fail; but, if it should succeed, you will make enough profit on this number."  This moderate and sensible advice satisfied the purchasers, and built up the city.  The terms were part cash and part on time, the purchaser <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I had been at the Fort only a few days when the question arose as to some governmental organization.  The great majority of the people then in California were within the district of Sacramento.  Business was remarkably brisk, and continually increasing.  Lots were selling rapidly, and who should take the acknowledgments and record the deeds?  The war between the United States and Mexico had terminated by a cession of California to our country; and we were satisfied that the military government, existing during and in consequence of the war, had ceased.  We knew nothing of the laws of Mexico, and had no means of learning.  They were found in a language we did not understand, and we had no translations, and for some time could have none.  In the mean time business must go on.  We were of the opinion that we had the right to establish a <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
055.sgm: government, to continue until superseded by some legitimate organization.  This <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
055.sgm:<P>We accordingly held a public meeting at Sacramento City early in January, 1849, at which we elected Henry A. Schoolcraft as First Magistrate and Recorder for the District of Sacramento.  Our rules were few and simple, and were merely designed to enable the people to go on with their necessary business for the time.  This action was sanctioned by the people of the district.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But this anomalous and embarrassing position gave rise to efforts for instituting some regular organization for all California.  For this purpose meetings were held in several places, and delegates elected to attend a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>"The recent large and unanimous meetings in the Pueblo de San Jose&acute; and in this town, in favor of immediate action for the establishment of a provisional government, are believed to be a fair index of the feeling of the community throughout the Territory.  That some steps should be taken to provide a government for the country, in the event that the United States Congress fail to do so at the present session, is obvious; and that the plan proposed by the resolutions of the San Francisco meeting is the most proper and feasible, we think beyond a doubt."  (Editorial, "Alta," January 4, 1849.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>It will be seen that San Francisco was then called a "town."</P>
055.sgm:<P>Colonel Thomas H. Benton addressed a letter to the people of California, under date of August 27, 1848, from which I take the following extracts, as found in the "Alta" of January 11, 1849:</P>
055.sgm:<P>The treaty with Mexico makes you citizens of the United States.  Congress has not yet passed the laws to give you the blessings of our government, and it may be some time before it does so.  In the mean time, while your condition is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Having no lawful government, nor lawful officers, you can have none except by your own act; you can have none that can have authority over you except by your own consent.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The proceedings of the meeting at Sacramento City are found in the "Alta" of January 25, 1849:<LB><HI REND="italics">Provisional Government</HI>
055.sgm: -- <HI REND="italics">Meeting at Sacramento City</HI>
055.sgm:<P>On motion, a committee of five was appointed by the President to draw up a preamble and resolutions expressive of the sense of this meeting.  The committee was composed of Samuel Brannan, John S. Fowler, John Sinclair, P. B. Reading, and Barton Lee.  The committee, having retired a few moments, returned, and asked for further time to report; whereupon, on motion, the meeting adjourned to meet again on Monday evening next.</P>
055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Monday, <HI REND="italics">January</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The meeting again assembled pursuant to adjournment.  The Secretaries being absent, on motion, Robert Gordon was requested to act as Secretary.  The committee appointed at the last meeting for that purpose made its report, which, after undergoing a few slight amendments, was adopted, as follows:</P>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Whereas</HI>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">And whereas</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">And whereas</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"Therefore--trusting in the sanction of the government and people of the United States for the course to which by the force of circumstances we are now impelled, for our own and for the safety of those now coming to our shores--</P>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:, That an election be held by the people of this district, in this room, at 10 A. M. on Monday next, by ballot, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The report was unanimously adopted.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On motion of Samuel Brannan, a resolution was offered that our delegates be instructed to oppose slavery in every shape and form in the Territory of California.  Adopted.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. Brannan, it was resolved that, in case of the resignation or death of either of the delegates, the remainder be empowered to elect one to fill the vacancy.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The President, in pursuance of the fifth resolution, appointed Messrs. Frank Bates, P. B. Reading, and John S. Fowler, a Corresponding Committee.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On motion of Samuel Brannan, it was resolved that the proceedings of this meeting be published in the "Alta California."</P>
055.sgm:<P>On motion, the meeting adjourned.</P>
055.sgm:<P>PEPER H. BURNETT, <HI REND="italics">Pres't</HI>
055.sgm:<P>ROBERT GORDON, <HI REND="italics">Sec'y</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Edward Gilbert, James C. Ward, and George Hyde, Corresponding Committee for the district of San Francisco, published a recommendation, dated January 24, 1849, that the meeting of the Convention be postponed from March 5 to May 1, 1849.</P>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Territorial Government</HI>
055.sgm:. Our readers will be assured, on perusing on our first page the article from the New York "Journal of Commerce" headed "Present State of the Question," that it is to the institution of slavery we owe the non-establishment of a Territorial Government in this country.  And they will have reason to fear, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>RIVALRY BETWEEN SACRAMENTO AND SUTTERVILLE--JOURNEY TO SAN FRANCISCO--WONDERFUL COINCIDENCES--STATE OF SOCIETY. In the month of March, 1849, the rivalry between Sacramento City and Sutterville was at its greatest height; and, as the ships from the Eastern States were soon to arrive, full of passengers coming to the gold-mines, it was deemed best for the interests of Sacramento City that I should spend a few weeks in San Francisco.  I started for San Francisco about the middle of March on board a small schooner.  We had some forty passengers.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On our way, and soon after we left Sacramento City, I was lying in a berth below, when Richard D. Torney came to me and said that, though he was a wicked man himself, he was pained to hear a man on board speak against the Christian religion as he had done, and desired me to go on deck and engage in a discussion with him.  This I declined to do.  The unbeliever was about fifty years of age, had read much, was a man of considerable ability, and seemed quite sincere in his opinions, and therefore outspoken in his opposition to Christianity.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On our way down the Sacramento River, this gentleman and myself had frequent familiar conversations upon other than religious subjects.  I soon learned that he was a native of Tennessee.  He gave me a very full history of himself and family; and among other incidents he mentioned the death of his only son.  His son <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>He said that he was a farmer at the time, and was engaged in inclosing a ten-acre tract of land, with a staked-and-ridered fence.  The fence was made of split rails and stakes, and he had put up the rails until the fence was ready to receive the stakes.  For the purpose of making my meaning clear, I will assume that the fence ran to the cardinal points, and inclosed a square piece of ground.  He was engaged in hauling the stakes in his wagon, and put out two stakes at each corner of the fence.  He could haul from seventy to eighty stakes at each load, and had put the stakes along the northern line of the fence, and part of the way down the western line, toward the southwest corner of the field.  The stakes he was hauling at the time were found south of the new inclosure; and, as he came along the western line toward the northwest corner of the field, he decided that he would <HI REND="italics">guess</HI>
055.sgm: the corner of the fence where he should put out the first two stakes, so as to have <HI REND="italics">just the number</HI>
055.sgm: to reach the point where he had placed the last stakes of the preceding load.  He did not count the number of fence-corners between him and the stakes already placed in position, nor had he counted the number of stakes in his wagon.  He commenced and put out two stakes at a certain corner; and, in the very act of doing so, a sudden thought flashed through his mind that, in case the stakes should last him to the other stakes, and none be left over, his son, then in perfect health, would die within a week.  To his surprise, he had just stakes enough to fill the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>These coincidences were, indeed, most wonderful.  First, there was one chance in two that there would be an even number of stakes on the wagon.  Second, there was about one chance in five that he should have begun at the right corner.  Third, there was one chance in many thousands that the thought should have flashed through his brain at the very instant that he threw out the first two stakes.  Fourth, there was one chance in two thousand that the death of his son should have followed, as it did, within the time apprehended. Fifth, there was one chance in many millions that all the circumstances should have <HI REND="italics">concurred</HI>
055.sgm:.  Take a combination bank-lock with one hundred numbers, and set the combination on four numbers--say, 16, 95, 20, and 7; and a burglar would have one chance in one hundred millions to guess the combination.  If the lock were only set on one number, there would be one chance in a hundred, but it is the <HI REND="italics">combination</HI>
055.sgm:<P>These strange coincidences greatly puzzled this unbeliever.  He expressed to me his extreme surprise.  He had been most fondly attached to his son, and seemed to have set his whole heart upon him.  I only state the facts, and leave every one to draw his own conclusions.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I arrived in San Francisco on Friday, March 23d.  It was then but a village, containing about one thousand five hundred inhabitants.  Of them, fifteen were women, five or six were children, and the remainder were nearly all young men, <HI REND="italics">very few</HI>
055.sgm: being over forty.  It was difficult to find a man with gray hair.  I had never seen so strange a state of society until I arrived in California, although I had been a pioneer most of my life.  To see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Sunday, March 25, 1849, was a bright, genial, beautiful day; and, as I was standing in Kearney Street, about ten o'clock A. M., I saw, on the opposite side of Portsmouth Square, two little girls, about seven years old, dressed in pure white.  They were about the age of my youngest child, Sallie, and they appeared to me the most lovely objects I had ever seen.  How beautiful are innocent children! I had not seen my loved ones for more than six months, and this spectacle went to my heart.  I had it from good authority that, in the fall of 1849, a beautiful flaxen-haired little girl, about three years old, was often seen playing upon a veranda attached to a house on Clay Street, between Montgomery and Kearney, and that hardy miners might be seen on the opposite side of Clay Street gazing at that lovely child, while manly tears ran down their bronzed cheeks.  The sight of that prattling child revived memories of the peaceful, happy homes they had left, to hunt for gold on a distant shore.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In coming from Sacramento to San Francisco in April, 1872, on board a steamer, I made the acquaintance of an intelligent man, who had been a member of the Legislature of California.  This gentleman informed me that he came to California in 1849, when sixteen years of age, with an uncle of his, who was as kind to him as a father.  They located at a remote mining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I had seen society in Oregon, without means, without spirituous liquors, and without a medium of exchange; but there was a due proportion of families, and the people rapidly improved in every respect.  In California, however, there were few women and children, but plenty of gold, liquors, and merchandise, and almost every man grew comparatively rich for the time; and yet, in the absence of female influence and religion, the men were rapidly going back to barbarism.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SAILING SHIPS ARRIVE WITH GOLD-SEEKERS--THEIR SPECULATIVE CHARACTER--GOLD-WASHING MACHINES--CLIMATE OF SAN FRANCISCO. Within a few days after my arrival in San Francisco the sailing ships from the East began to arrive, full of gold-seekers, who were well provided with outfits, consisting of clothing, towels, brushes, and other articles, many of which were not much used in the mines.  Many of them had much greater supplies than they required, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>One of the greatest proofs of the speculative character of the gold-seekers was found in the various gold-washing machines brought to California.  When the discovery of gold was fully believed in the States east of the Rocky Mountains, many inventive minds set to work to construct machines for washing out the gold.  It was interesting and very amusing to see the number and variety of these most useless things.  They had been brought in many cases across the Isthmus of Darien, at great expense and labor, and upon arrival were only fit for fuel.  Many of the owners of these machines would not believe the statements of those who had been in the mines, but carried them to Sacramento City, where they were compelled at last to abandon them on the bank of the river.  Some few of these machines were brought across the plains in wagons.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I knew a tinsmith named Coleman in Weston, Missouri, who invented and constructed an iron gold-washer weighing from ten to twelve hundred pounds, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>For days and days I would stand on Kearney Street, in front of Naglee's Bank, near the Square, and talk to the newly arrived.  I had been in the mines myself, had "seen the elephant," and could give them any information they desired.  The simple absurdity of many of their questions severly tested my risible faculties; but I restrained my laughter, remembering that I had been green myself, and answered all their various questions kindly and truthfully.  I have seen them, on their way to Sacramento City, take their spades and pans, shovel up the sand on the bank of the Sacramento River, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I will not attempt a lengthy description of the young and great city of San Francisco.  I have seen it rise from the rough, irregular sand-hills and ridges of the original site, to the paved streets and magnificent buildings of a city of three hundred thousand people, from every considerable clime and kingdom of the earth.  I have seen the events of several generations crowded into one.</P>
055.sgm:<P>No climate, so far as I know, is superior to that of San Francisco, taken as a whole.  It is never too cold nor too warm for outdoor work in this city.  For ten months in the average year building and other outdoor work can go on most successfully.  For eight months in the year we can know, with reasonable certainty, what kind of weather we are to have.  If we have a picnic or other occasion to attend, we know there will be no disappointment in consequence of bad weather.  We know how to estimate correctly, in advance, what we can accomplish within a time stated.  The fact that so little time is lost in consequence of bad weather is one great cause of the city's rapid improvement.  Men can do more outdoor work here than elsewhere in a year.  A fine frame or brick building can be commenced after the rainy season has passed, and securely covered in before any rain falls to injure or impede the work.</P>
055.sgm:<P>UNSATISFACTORY CONDITION OF THE GOVERNMENT OF THE DISTRICT OF SAN FRANCISCO. I had not been in San Francisco more than ten days before I became fully aware of the unsatisfactory <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In August, 1847, Governor Mason, by reason of many complaints against the ill-defined powers and assumptions of the Alcalde, authorized the election of six citizens to constitute a Town Council.  This body continued in existence until the 31st of December, 1848, when it expired by limitation.  They passed a law authorizing a new election on December 27th for seven members of a new council to succeed them.  This election was duly held, but a majority of the old council was not satisfied with the result, and declared the election nugatory because fraudulent votes were polled thereat, and ordered a new one.  Four fifths of the citizens thought that this was an unwarrantable assumption of power on the part of the council, and they would not attend a new election.  An election was held, however, by the factionists, and we then had the spectacle of three town councils in existence at one and the same time.  The old council finally voted itself out of existence on the 15th of January, 1849, and the other two kept up a cross-fire of counter enactments for a few weeks longer.  Despairing of ever being able to establish public justice upon a proper basis so long as the people were at the mercy of this officer, a convention of the people of this district was then called, at which it was resolved to elect a legislative assembly of fifteen members, who should have power to make such laws as might be deemed necessary, "provided they did not conflict with the Constitution of the United States, nor the common law thereof."</P>
055.sgm:<P>The legislative body, to correct these abuses, and inasmuch as the people had elected three justices of the peace, fixed a day upon which the office of Alcalde should cease, and ordered him to hand over his books and papers to Myron Norton, Esq., a newly elected justice.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The proceedings of the meeting of citizens mentioned in the preceding remarks are published in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Public Meeting</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The meeting was organized by calling M. Norton to preside, and T. W. Perkins to act as secretary.  The chairman, after reading the call of the meeting, opened it more fully by lucidly but succinctly stating its objects; when Mr. Hyde, on being invited, after some preliminary remarks, submitted the following plan of organization or government for the district of San Francisco:</P>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Whereas</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"ARTICLE I. "SECTION 1.  That there shall be elected by ballot a Legislative Assembly for the district of San Francisco, consisting of fifteen members, citizens of the district, eight of whom shall constitute a quorum for the transaction of business, and whose power, duty, and office shall be to make such laws as they, in their wisdom, may deem essential to promote the happiness of the people, provided they shall not conflict with the Constitution of the United States, nor be repugnant to the common law thereof.</P>
055.sgm:<P>"SEC. 2.  Every bill which shall have passed the Legislative Assembly shall, before it becomes a law, be signed by the Speaker and the Recording Clerk.</P>
055.sgm:<P>"SEC. 3.  It shall keep a journal of its proceedings, and determine its own rules.</P>
055.sgm:<P>"SEC. 4.  The members of the Legislative Assembly shall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>"ARTICLE II. "SEC. 1.  That, for the purpose of securing to the people a more efficient administration of justice, there shall be elected by ballot three justices of the peace, of equal though separate jurisdiction, who shall be empowered by their commission of office to hear and adjudicate all civil and criminal issues in this district, according to the common law, as recognized by the Constitution of the United States, under which we live.</P>
055.sgm:<P>"SEC. 2.  That there shall be an election held, and the same is hereby ordered, at the Public Institute, in the town of San Francisco, on Wednesday, the twenty-first day of February, 1849, between the hours of eight A. M. and five P. M., for fifteen members of the Legislative Assembly for the district of San Francisco, and three justices of the peace, as hereinbefore prescribed.</P>
055.sgm:<P>"SEC. 3.  That the members of the said Legislative Assembly, and the three justices of the peace elected as hereinbefore prescribed, shall hold their office for the term of one year from the date of their commissions, unless sooner superseded by the competent authority from the United States Government, or by the action of the Provisional Government now invoked by the people of this Territory, or by the action of the people of this district.</P>
055.sgm:<P>"SEC. 4.  Members of the Legislature and justices of the peace shall, before entering on the duties of their respective offices, take and subscribe the following oath:</P>
055.sgm:<P>"`I do solemnly swear that I will support the Constitution of the United States, and government of this district, and that I will faithfully discharge the duties of the office of -- according to the best of my ability.'"</P>
055.sgm:<P>Mr. Harris moved the adoption of the entire plan, which was seconded.... and was carried almost unanimously....</P>
055.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. Roach, it was</P>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:, That the persons who were elected on the 27th day of December last, to serve as a Town Council for the year 1849, and those who were elected for the same purpose on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Messrs. Ellis, Swasey, Long, Buckalew, and Hyde were elected such committee.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On motion, it was</P>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:<P>MYRON NORTON, <HI REND="italics">Pres't</HI>
055.sgm:<P>T. W. Perkins, <HI REND="italics">Sec'y</HI>
055.sgm:<P>It appears that the military authorities pronounced the action of the Legislative Assembly null and void, and that the Alcalde had refused to deliver up the papers of his office to the person designated by the Assembly.  This brought up the question as to the right of the people of California to organize a provisional Government.</P>
055.sgm:<P>General Mason was military Governor of California during the war with Mexico, and was succeeded by General Riley.  At the time I was in San Francisco on my first visit, General Persifer F. Smith was in command temporarily as the superior officer of General Riley.  I remember that I had a friendly conference with General Smith in regard to our civil government.  He was a most admirable man--kind, candid, courteous, and dignified.  He seemed to regret very much the unsatisfactory condition of governmental affairs in California, but still thought there was no remedy by the action of our people.  I differed with him in opinion, and about the 20th of April, 1849, sent to the "Alta California" the following communication, which appeared in the number of that paper issued April 26, 1849:</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>COMMUNICATION TO THE "ALTA CALIFORNIA"--FAILURE OF THE ATTEMPT TO HOLD A CONVENTION TO FRAME A PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT.  <HI REND="italics">The Rights of the People</HI>
055.sgm:. MR. EDITOR: Have the people of California any rights?  If so, what is their extent?  Have they not certain rights, founded, based, and implanted in man's very nature--that belong to them as men, as human beings--rights that derive no force from human legislation, but trace their origin up through nature to nature's God?  Are not these great principles of liberty and justice, that produced the American Revolutionary war, promulgated in the immortal Declaration of Independence, and are now embodied in the American Constitutions, State and Federal, the birthright of every American citizen?  I must answer emphatically, they are yet <HI REND="italics">ours</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The Federal Government is a government of <HI REND="italics">limited</HI>
055.sgm: powers--limited by a written Constitution, published to the world, and placed among the enduring and solemn records of the country.  The Constitution of the United States not only <HI REND="italics">limits</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The question whether the people of California under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>312</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:existing circumstances have the right to exercise that power inherent in human nature--the power to institute government for the protection of life, liberty, and the right of property--is a question that does not rightfully belong to the executive department of the government to determine; much less does it come within the province of a subordinate military commander.  Neither does it belong to any <HI REND="italics">military</HI>
055.sgm: officer, in time of peace, to decide what code of <HI REND="italics">civil</HI>
055.sgm: law is in force in this or any other community; nor does he have the right to determine what <HI REND="italics">judicial</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Has the President of the United States distinctly and clearly advanced the astounding proposition that, so long as Congress may choose to abandon and, for the time being, abdicate the right of government here, and refuse to extend over us the laws of our country--that <HI REND="italics">so long</HI>
055.sgm: the most unfortunate and miserable people of California (not having forfeited their rights by crimes against God and their country) have not the liberty to organize a mere temporary government for their protection?  Does the President, or any other American statesman, mean to say that, while the people of Oregon had the right to and <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
055.sgm: organize a provisional government, recognized by Congress itself, the people of California have no such right?  I do not understand the President or the Secretary of State as intending to advance any such idea.  I know Colonel Benton distinctly advised the people of California to organize such government.  The President has not, as I understand, decided that we have no right to institute a temporary government, and that we <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
055.sgm: submit to the mere <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
055.sgm: government under the military authority; and, had he so decided, he would have done so in derogation of the Constitution and laws of our country.  The idea that he has so decided is simply an <HI REND="italics">inference</HI>
055.sgm:<P>What are, in fact, the opinions of the President in reference to the existing state of things in California?  In his late message he says: "Upon the exchange of the ratifications of the treaty of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:peace with Mexico, on the thirteenth day of May last, the temporary governments which had been established over New Mexico and California by our military and naval commanders, <HI REND="italics">by virtue of the rights of war</HI>
055.sgm:, ceased to derive any obligatory force from <HI REND="italics">that source of authority</HI>
055.sgm:."  I have italicized a part of the above extract for the purpose of more distinctly showing that, in the President's opinion, whatever government existed <HI REND="italics">after</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The President, after speaking of the adjournment of Congress without making any provision for the government of the inhabitants of New Mexico and California, goes on to say: "Since that time, the limited power possessed by the Executive has been exercised to preserve and protect them from the inevitable consequences of a state of anarchy.  The only government that remained was that established by the military authority during the war.  Regarding this to be a <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
055.sgm:<P>All governments, rightfully instituted, must derive their powers from some <HI REND="italics">source</HI>
055.sgm:.  These powers are <HI REND="italics">derivative</HI>
055.sgm:, not <HI REND="italics">original</HI>
055.sgm:.  The Declaration of Independence assumes the clear and distinct principle that "governments instituted among men derive their just powers from the consent of the governed."  Now, according to the above extract, from what "source of authority" did the temporary governments continued after the war derive their powers?  Not from the "rights of war."  They had ceased.  Nor yet from the legislation of Congress, for that body adjourned without any action upon the subject.  What then was the source of power?  The President says the "consent of the inhabitants."  Nor can the President or any one else "presume" this "consent" to be given contrary to the fact and the truth, and does the President mean to say so?  Surely not.  If the President has the right to "presume" this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>What is the difference between <HI REND="italics">no consent</HI>
055.sgm: and "presumed consent" contrary to the truth?  Can the President, or any man living, presume away the liberties of the people?  Never.  If we have no power to <HI REND="italics">dissent</HI>
055.sgm:, we have no power to <HI REND="italics">consent</HI>
055.sgm:.  We are not free, but mere passive instruments.  Suppose a despot should say to a certain people, "I will not exercise despotic power over you without your consent, but I will presume such consent against your express declarations to the contrary."  Is it possible that the President of the United States intended to say, in substance, to his fellow citizens of California, "Gentlemen, I will not continue the temporary government established during the war without your consent, but I will <HI REND="italics">presume</HI>
055.sgm:<P>That our military commanders had a right to establish a temporary government "in virtue of the rights of war," to continue during the existence of the war, might readily be admitted; and that the President had the right to continue such government after peace was established, by the "consent of the inhabitants," might be true; and that such consent might fairly be presumed, so long as they submitted to such government, and organized no other, might also be admitted, though doubtful.  But to say that the President, a mere executive officer, could continue such government without any actual consent of the inhabitants, and could presume such consent in a manner so violent as utterly to destroy all power of <HI REND="italics">dissent </HI>
055.sgm:<P>The opinion of President Polk and that of his distinguished <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:Secretary of State are entitled to the utmost respect, not only upon account of the high and responsible stations they filled, but more especially for the reason that they are both profound jurists and statesmen.  But I do not understand them as laying down these two distinct positions--1.  That the government continued in California after the war could only exist by the "consent" of the inhabitants; and 2.  That the President has the right to presume such consent to be given <HI REND="italics">although it be expressly withheld</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Mr. Starkie, in his learned treatise on the "Law of Evidence," gives this definition of a presumption: "A presumption may be defined to be an inference as to the existence of one fact from the existence of some other fact, founded upon a previous experience of their connection."  After some other remarks not necessary to illustrate the position I am seeking to establish, the author says: "It also follows from the above definition that the inference may be either <HI REND="italics">certain</HI>
055.sgm: or not certain, but merely <HI REND="italics">probable</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Now, whether the inhabitants gave, and still continue to give, their consent to the continuance of the military government after the cessation of war, is simply a question of <HI REND="italics">fact</HI>
055.sgm:.  So long as the people of the country submitted to such government, organized no other, and made no objection, by their acts they made that government <HI REND="italics">their own</HI>
055.sgm:<P>All that I understand the President as intending to advance is, that he had the limited power to continue the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
055.sgm: government by the consent of the inhabitants; and that so long as they submitted, and did not object to such continuance, nor organize any different government, such consent might be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:presumed; and for this reason he "advised" the inhabitants to "conform and submit to it for a short intervening period, before Congress would again assemble, and could legislate on the subject."  He "advised" (not ordered) the inhabitants to submit.  The law <HI REND="italics">commands</HI>
055.sgm:, and does not <HI REND="italics">advise</HI>
055.sgm:.  And, had the President believed that he had the lawful authority to continue the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
055.sgm: government <HI REND="italics">against our consent</HI>
055.sgm:<P>I have thus, Mr. Editor, spoken my candid sentiments in language, I hope, intelligible and plain.  I have done so without intending the slightest disrespect to those of my fellow citizens who may differ with me in opinion.  I have only sought to discuss most vital <HI REND="italics">principles</HI>
055.sgm:, and not to make the slightest personal reflection upon any one.  I may or may not trouble you again.<HSEP>P.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The following is an extract from a letter of James Buchanan, Secretary of State of the United States, to William V. Voorhies, dated October 7, 1848:</P>
055.sgm:<P>The President deeply regrets that Congress did not, at their late session, establish a territorial government for California.  It would now be vain to enter into the reasons for this omission.  Whatever these may have been, he is firmly convinced that Congress feels a deep interest in California and its people, and will at an early period of the next session provide for them a Territorial Government suited to their wants.  ("Alta," March 15, 1849.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>But the next session passed without any legislation by Congress in regard to California, except to extend the revenue laws of the United States over us.  In the "Alta" of June 2, 1849, will be found an editorial in reference to this treatment of us headed "A Legal Outrage," in which occurs the expression, "thus passing a law to tax California without giving it a representative or even a government."</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>It will be remembered that the meetings held at San Jose&acute; and San Francisco in December, 1848, and that at Sacramento in January, 1849, recommended the people of California to elect delegates to attend a Convention to be held at San Jose&acute;, March 5, 1849, to frame a provisional government for this Territory.  Delegates were accordingly elected, and corresponding committees appointed; but that attempt at organization failed, in consequence of a difference of opinion as to the time when the Convention should meet.  The time mentioned was found to be too short to allow the lower districts to be represented.  Edward Gilbert, James C. Ward, and George Hyde, Corresponding Committee of San Francisco, published a recommendation, dated January 24, 1849, that the meeting of the Convention be postponed from March 5th to May 1st.  ("Alta," January 25, 1849.)  Messrs.  John Sinclair and Charles E. Pickett, delegates elect to the Convention from Sacramento district, protested against the change of time.  ("Alta," March 1, 1849.)</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the "Alta" of March 22, 1849, a communication was published--signed by W. M. Steuart, Myron Norton, and Francis J. Lippitt, delegates from San Francisco; Charles T. Botts, delegate from Monterey; J. D. Stevenson, from Los Angeles; R. Semple, from Benicia; John B. Frisbie and M. G. Vallejo, from Sonoma; S. Brannan, J. A. Sutter, Samuel J. Hensley, and P. B. Reading, from Sacramento--recommending the holding of a Convention for framing a provisional government at Monterey, on the first Monday of August, 1849, in case no act of Congress should be passed to create a territorial government for California, and resigning their positions as delegates.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Congress adjourned March 3, 1849, and President <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>RETURN TO SACRAMENTO--COME A SECOND TIME TO SAN FRANCISCO--BECOME A MEMBER OF THE LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY--EXTRACTS FROM THE ADDRESS OF THAT BODY TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA--EXTRACTS FROM GENERALRILEY'S PROCLAMATION--ADDRESS OF THE COMMITTEE OF FIVE. About the 21st of April, 1849, I left San Francisco on my return to Sacramento, where I arrived about the 28th of that month.  About the middle of May my family arrived in San Francisco from Oregon; and I came the second time to San Francisco, arriving about the 1stof June.  I became a member of the Legislative Assembly of SanFrancisco, and took a leading part in its proceedings.  This Assembly published an "Address to the People of California," which appears in the "Alta" of June 14, 1849.  Though there is no date to the address as published, it was adopted some time before, and was written by me, in entire ignorance of General Riley's intended proclamation to the people of California, which bears date at Monterey, June 3, 1849, but was unknown in San Francisco until Saturday, June 9th.  The following are extracts from this address:</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The Committee appointed by the Speaker, under a resolution of this House, to draw up and submit an address to the people of California, beg leave respectfully to submit the within for the consideration of this body. . . .</P>
055.sgm:<P>The discovery of the rich and exhaustless gold-mines of California has, in and of itself, produced a strange and singular state of things in this community, unparalleled, perhaps, in the annals of mankind.  We have here in our midst a mixed mass of human beings from every part of the wide earth, of different habits, manners, customs, and opinions-- <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
055.sgm:,however, impelled onward by the same feverish desire of fortune-making.  But, perfectly anomalous as may be the state of our population, the state of our government is still more unprecedented and alarming.  <HI REND="italics">We are in fact without government</HI>
055.sgm: --a commercial, civilized, and wealthy people, without law, order, or system, to protect and secure them in the peaceful enjoyment of those rights and privileges inestimable, bestowed upon them by their Creator, and holden, by the fundamental principles of our country, to be <HI REND="italics">inalienable and absolute</HI>
055.sgm:<P>For the first time in the history of the "model Republic," and perhaps in that of any civilized government in the world, the Congress of the United States, representing a great nation of more than twenty millions of freemen, have assumed the right, not only to <HI REND="italics">tax us without representation</HI>
055.sgm:, but to <HI REND="italics">tax us without giving us any government at all</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Under these pressing circumstances, and impressed with the urgent necessity of some efficient action on the part of the people of California, the Legislative Assembly of the district of San Franciscohave believed it to be their duty to earnestly recommend to their fellow citizens the propriety of electing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The present state of a great and harassing political question in the United States must certainly defeat, for several coming sessions, any attempts at an organization of a territorial government for this country by Congress.  In the Senate of the United States the parties stand precisely equal, there being fifteen free and fifteen slave States represented in that body.  Until one or the other gain the ascendancy, we can have no territorial organization by act of Congress.  All parties in both Houses of Congress admit, however, that the people of California can and ought to settle the vexed question of slavery in their State Constitution.  From the best information, both parties in Congress are anxious that this should be done; and there can exist no doubt of the fact that the present perplexing state of the question at Washington would insure the admission of California at once.  <HI REND="italics">We have that question to settle for ourselves; and the sooner we do it, the better</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The following editorial, in reference to this address, appeared in the "Alta" of June 14th:</P>
055.sgm:<P>It is important and proper that we should remark, in this connection, that the Legislative Address was prepared and adopted before the publication of General Riley's proclamation in this place, and that it therefore has no reference to, or necessary connection with, that document.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the same number of the "Alta" will be found a long editorial, of which the following is the beginning:</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Revolution--its Progress</HI>
055.sgm:<P>A meeting was held on Tuesday, June 12th, of the proceedings of which the following correct account will be found in the "Alta" of June 14th:</P>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Large and Enthusiastic Mass Meeting of the Citizens of San Francisco in Favor of a Convention for forming a State Government.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The mass meeting of the citizens, called for the purpose of considering the propriety of electing delegates to a convention for the formation of a government for California, took place on Tuesday, June 12th, in Portsmouth Square.</P>
055.sgm:<P>At 3 o'clock P.M. the meeting was called to order by Peter H. Burnett, Esq., who proposed to the meeting the following list of officers, which was unanimously adopted: President, William M. Steuart; Vice-Presidents, William D. M. Howard, E. H. Harrison, C. V. Gillespie, Robert A. Parker, Myron Norton, Francis J. Lippitt, J. H. Merrill, George Hyde, William Hooper, Hiram Grimes, John A. Patterson, C. H. Johnson, William H. Davis, Alfred Ellis, Edward Gilbert, John Townsend; Secretaries, E. Gould Buffom, J. R. Per Lee, W. C. Parker.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The object of the meeting having been briefly stated by the President, Peter H. Burnett, Esq., addressed the people assembled, and concluded his remarks by presenting the Hon. Thomas Butler King of Georgia, who responded to the call with his accustomed eloquence and ability.  The meeting was further addressed by Dr. W. M. Gwin and William A. Buffom, Esq., when the following resolutions were offered by Myron Norton, Esq.:</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Major Barry opposed the resolutions.  General Morse proposed an amendment to the last resolution, to the effect that the meeting adopt for the time the days appointed by General Riley.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Colonel J.D. Stevenson opposed the amendment.</P>
055.sgm:<P>After some little discussion, the amendment was rejected, and, the vote being taken upon the original resolutions, they were adopted.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Chairman, in accordance with the last resolution, then appointed the following committee: Peter H. Burnett, W.D.M. Howard, Myron Norton, E. Gould Buffom, Edward Gilbert.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The meeting was then addressed by Edward Gilbert.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On motion, the meeting adjourned <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
055.sgm:<P>WILLIAM M. STEUART, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
055.sgm:<P>E. GOULD BUFFOM, J. R. PER LEE, W. C. PARKER, <HI REND="italics">Secretaries.</HI>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>General Riley's "Proclamation to the People of California," as already stated, bore date at Monterey, June 3, 1849, but was not known in San Francisco until Saturday, June 9th.  The following extracts are from this proclamation:</P>
055.sgm:<P>In order to complete this organization with the least possible delay, the undersigned, in virtue of power in him vested, does hereby appoint the first day of August next as the day for holding a special election for delegates to a general convention, and for filling the offices of judges of the Superior Court, prefects and sub-prefects, and all vacancies in the offices of first alcaldes (or judges of first instance), alcaldes, justices of the peace, and town councils.  The judges of the Superior Court and district prefects are by law executive appointments; but, being desirous that the wishes of the people should be fully consulted, the Governor will appoint such persons as may receive the plurality of votes in their respective districts, provided they are competent and eligible to the office.  Each district will therefore elect a prefect and two sub-prefects, and fill the vacancies in the offices of first alcalde (or judge of first instance) and of alcalde.  One judge of the Superior Court will be elected in the districts of San Diego, Los Angeles, and Santa Barbara; one in the districts of San Luis Obispo and Monterey; one in the districts of San Jose&acute; and San Francisco; and one in the districts of Sonoma, Sacramento, and San Joaquin.  The salaries of the judges of the Superior Court, the prefects, and judges of first instance are regulated by the Governor, but can not exceed for the first $4,000 per annum, for the second $2,500, and for the third $1,500.  These salaries will be paid out of the civil fund which has been formed from the proceeds of the customs, provided no instructions to the contrary are received from Washington....</P>
055.sgm:<P>The method here indicated to attain what is desired by all, viz., a more perfect political organization, is deemed the most direct and safe that can be adopted, and one fully authorized by law.  It is the course advised by the President, and by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On the 4th of June General Riley issued a proclamation addressed "To the People of the District of San Francisco," in which he declares that the "body of men styling themselves the Legislative Assembly of San Francisco has usurped powers which are vested only in the Congress of the United States," etc.  This was made known in San Francisco, June 9th.  The time appointed by General Riley for the meeting of the Convention was September 1, 1849, and the place Monterey.  The Legislative Assembly of San Francisco issued an "Address to the People of California," in answer to the two proclamations of General Riley.  This address was reported by a committee of which I was a member, and was drawn up by me.  It may be found at length in the "Alta" under the dates of July 19, 26, and August 9, 1849.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The following was published by the committee of five:</P>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">To the Public</HI>
055.sgm:. The undersigned, composing a committee appointed at a mass meeting of the people of the district of San Francisco, held on the 12th day of June, 1849, to correspond with the other districts, and to fix an early day for the election of delegates and the assembling of the convention, and also to determine the number of delegates which should be elected from this district, have given the subject that attention which their limited time and means would permit.  The time being a matter, not of principle, but of mere expediency, the committee, being duly impressed with the urgent necessity of success in the main <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:object desired by all parties, have not deemed it their duty or right, under the circumstances, to do any act that might endanger the ultimate success of the great project of holding the convention.  The committee, not recognizing the least power, as matter of right, in Brevet Brigadier General Riley, to " <HI REND="italics">appoint</HI>
055.sgm:<P>PETER H. BURNETT. WILLIAM D.M. HOWARD. MYRON NORTON. E. GOULD BUFFOM. EDWARD GILBERT.  <HI REND="italics">June 18, 1849</HI>
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055.sgm:<P>EXTRACTS FROM MY SECOND COMMUNICATION TO THE "ALTA CALIFORNIA"--GROUNDS OF GENERAL RILEY'S VIEWS AS TO THE RIGHT OF THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA TO ORGANIZE A PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT--GROUNDS OF THOSE WHO CLAIMED THAT RIGHT--THE CONTROVERSY MOST FORTUNATE FOR CALIFORNIA--ALL THINGS HAPPILY TENDED TO PRODUCE THE MAIN RESULT DESIRED BY US ALL. About the 5th of July I sent a communication to the "Alta," which appeared in the number of July 12, 1849.  The following are extracts:</P>
055.sgm:<P>But it seems from a late communication in your paper, under the signature of General Riley, that new instructions have been received, which, he says, sustain the views expressed in his proclamation.  He says: "It may not be improper here to remark that the instructions from Washington, received by the steamer Panama since the issuing of the proclamation, fully confirm the views there set forth; and it is distinctly said in these instructions that ` <HI REND="italics">the plan of establishing an independent government in California can not be sanctioned, no matter from what source it may come</HI>
055.sgm:<P>If these instructions do confirm the views of the proclamation, I must say that the General has been unfortunate in his quotation.  Although this most solemn and threatening extract from the instructions is put in italics to give it greater point, and introduced in such a connection as to be endorsed as <HI REND="italics">true</HI>
055.sgm:<P>What is meant by the phrase "independent government"?  Did the intelligent officer who drew up these instructions mean <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:to say that a mere temporary provisional government, merely regulating our domestic affairs, and that only while Congress neglected and refused to do so themselves--not conflicting with any rights of the General Government, not absolving the inhabitants from their allegiance to the United States, not declaring us <HI REND="italics">independent</HI>
055.sgm:, but expressly admitting our <HI REND="italics">dependence</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The idea of establishing an independent government here--thus cutting us off from the Union and from all protection of the mother country, and erecting a mere petty state to be the sport and play of all the great powers of the world, that might think it their <HI REND="italics">interest</HI>
055.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">whim</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Who is to blame we can not tell.  All we know with unerring certainty is, that we are the doomed sufferers.  The officers here shelter themselves behind the impenetrable shield called "instructions," and the authorities at home are ignorant of our condition.  Is our country or our brethren in the States to be blamed for this?  Certainly not.  They will do us justice.  The time is coming when California can have her equal station <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:among the States of the Union, and when her servants can be heard, and her voice regarded.<HSEP>P.</P>
055.sgm:<P>An editorial in the "Alta" for July 19, 1849, refers to this charge as follows: "For two years and a half that we have resided in California, we have never heard the idea seriously uttered, that California should become an independent government."</P>
055.sgm:<P>The denial by General Riley of the alleged right of the people of California to form a temporary provisional government was substantially based upon these grounds: That, under the law of nations, the civil laws of the ceded territory remain in force until superseded by those of the government to which the cession is made; that, as Congress possessed the sole power to legislate, but had passed no act creating a territorial government for California, the civil laws of Mexico remained in force; that one of the provisions of that law was that, in case of a vacancy in the office of Governor, the military commander should fill the office for the time being; that there was such a vacancy in the office of Governor of California, and that he, General Riley, was simply <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
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055.sgm:<P>On the contrary, our claim was substantially based upon these positions: That, conceding the general principle to be true, that under the law of nations the civil laws of the ceded territory continue in force until superseded by those of the government to which the cession is made, still, in the peculiar case of California, the Mexican civil law had been so superseded; that, the moment the treaty took effect, the Constitution of the United States, and all the great leading principles upon which our American institutions are based, were at once extended over the acquired territory; that the power to legislate was primarily vested in Congress, but that, while that body neglected and refused to exercise such power, it was no usurpation in the people of California to exercise it temporarily, and in strict subordination to the admitted right of Congress; that usurpation of power is the assumed use of it by an illegal body, when, at the same time, it is claimed and exercised by the rightful authority; that under the theory of our Government the executive office of Governor can not be filled by a subordinate military officer, as the two capacities are incompatible with each other and with our American theory; that, in point of practical effect, the people of California were in the same condition as had been the people of Oregon; that nine tenths of the people of California were American citizens, lately arrived from the States east of the Rocky Mountains, wholly unacquainted with the civil laws of Mexico, and with the language in which they were written and published; that, such being the case, it was not practical good sense or justice to require these nine tenths of the people of California to learn the laws of Mexico for the short period to elapse before the new order of things was morally certain to take place; that imposing this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The question as to the legal and just right of the people of California, under all the circumstances then existing, to form for themselves a temporary government, was one admitting of discussion and difference of opinion.  Among the lawyers then in California, who had been here long enough to understand the true merits of the controversy, there was almost an entire unanimity in the opinion that only a <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
055.sgm: government could exist in the country, based upon the consent of the people.  This was the view of three fourths of the inhabitants.  It seems clear that this was the view of President Polk and Mr. Secretary Buchanan.  But it seems equally clear that President Taylor and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>But, aside from the true merits of the controversy, it was <HI REND="italics">most</HI>
055.sgm:<P>All things happily combined to bring about the result we all so much desired.  The people had suffered so much from the bad administration of laws unknown to them, and were so unused to live under what they held to be a military government, that, in San Francisco especially, they were deeply and grievously excited.  So soon as I became a member of the Legislative Assembly of San Francisco, my ardent efforts were mainly directed toward the formation of a State constitution, as the only safe and peaceful mode of settlingn.  So far as I and a large majority of that body were concerned, we were opposed to any and all forcible conflicts with General Riley's government.  While we were satisfied that our position was right, we preferred patient and peaceful means to attain a satisfactory solution of the difficulty.  The resolutions passed at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:large and enthusiastic meeting in San Francisco on June 12, 1849, were prepared in advance, and after full consultation, and with a view to secure ultimate unanimity.  We had our doubts whether the people would, under the then excited state of public feeling against the rule of General Riley, sanction <HI REND="italics">at once</HI>
055.sgm:<P>There was not the slightest ground for the charge that the people of California desired to establish an independent government; and I can only believe that it was made through mistaken information, based solely on suspicion in the minds of General Riley's informants.  I knew that old and tried soldier in Missouri, years before either of us came to California, and had always entertained for him the greatest respect.  I bear a willing testimony to his integrity and patriotism.  I afterward met him in September, 1849, at Monterey during the sitting of the Convention, and had several friendly interviews with him.  In one of these he said to me very frankly: "Burnett, you may be correct in your views in regard to the legal right of the people of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>RETURN TO SACREMENTO CITY--ITS RAPID IMPROVEMENT--JAMES S. THOMAS. About the 3d of July, 1849, I was informed that John A. Sutter, Jr., had reconveyed the property to his father, and that the latter had selected another person as his agent.  On the 5th I left San Francisco for Sacramento, and arrived at the latter place on the evening of the 11th.  During my absence of six weeks the population of Sacramento had greatly increased; and, although there was not a singlebrick and but few wooden houses in the city, it had become an active business place, teeming with people, who mainly lived and did business in canvastents and cloth shanties.</P>
055.sgm:<P>My friend Dr. William M. Carpenter had just finished a cloth shanty on his lot at the corner of Second and K Streets.  It was twenty feet long and twelve wide, with a cloth partition in the center.  In the rear room he kept his office and medicines, and I had my office in the front apartment.  The shanty was constructed by putting up six strong posts, made from the trunks of small trees, and flattened on two sides with an axe, one of which was put at each corner, and one in each center of the two ends of the structure. Between these posts were placed smaller posts flattened on one side, and placed some two feet apart, and on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I was very busily engaged until July 24th in making an amicablesettlement with Captain Sutter.  The weather was very warm, and our thin cotton covering afforded very imperfect protection against the scorching rays of a midsummer sun.</P>
055.sgm:<P>About the last of July the immigrants across the Plains began to arrive, and among them was James S. Thomas, from Platte City, Missouri.  I had known him for about three years before I left that State for Oregon in the spring of 1843.  He was then a poor young lawyer of admirable character, and was most highly esteemed by all who knew him.  He was a tall, thin, spare man.  I had not seen him for more than six years, and in the mean time his appearance had so changed that I did not at first recognize him.  I was very busily employed writing in my office about 8 o'clock one morning, when I observed some tall person standing before me.  I raised my eyes and looked at him, but he said nothing, and I continued my writing.  Several minutes passed, and he still remained silent.  I raised my eyes and looked at him the second time, when I was greeted with a kind laugh, and then I recognized him.  Our meeting was most cordial.  Said I: "Sit down and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I at once inquired the time of his arrival, and he informed me that it was the previous evening.  He said he was <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
055.sgm:<P>I attended the meeting, and made an earnest, vigorous speech for Thomas, and he received the nomination.  Next day we had a warm contest at the polls, as his competitor was well known in the city.  Many objected to Thomas upon the ground of his profession.  To this objection I replied that, while I had nothing to say in defense of lawyers as a class, I would say that Thomas was among the best of his profession.  He was elected, and I then said to him: "Take the official oath as early as you can, and then come to me and I will give you something to do."  The next day the result was declared, and he took the necessary oath, and came to my office in the evening; and I told him to be at the office next morning at sunrise.</P>
055.sgm:<P>An auctioneer named Scovey had been sent from San Francisco to Sacramento City a few days previously to sell several Sacramento City lots, in subdivisions, to the highest bidder for cash.  He had completed the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On the morning appointed he was promptly on hand at sunrise, and we commenced our work with a will.  I never saw a poor lawyer work with more zeal.  It was truly amusing to see him wield that pen.  To use a cant but expressive phrase, "I did my level best," and so did he.  From sunrise to sunset we scarcely lost a moment, except at twelve to take a hasty lunch.  That day Thomas made more than one hundred dollars, and that was his beginning in California.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When I arrived at Sacramento City, I found melons in market.  An old man of the name of Swartz cultivated several acres in melons that year, on the west bank of the Sacramento River, at a point some five miles below the city.  These melons he sold readily at from one to three dollars each, according to size.  From the sale of melons he realized that year some thirty thousand dollars.  I mention these cases as illustrative of those times.  Such times, I think, were never seen before, and will hardly be seen again.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I have seen a whole community, for a time, substantially living under the theory of an equal division of property.  In California, during the years 1848 and 1849, all men had about an even start, and all grew comparatively rich.  At least, they were all <HI REND="italics">equally</HI>
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055.sgm:<P>APPOINTED TO A SEAT IN THE SUPERIOR TRIBUNAL--SICKNESS OF ONE OF MY DAUGHTERS--REMOVE TO SAN JOSE&acute;--ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE IN CALIFORNIA DURING 1849--STATE OF SOCIETY--THE QUACK.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I left Sacramento City on my return to San Francisco on the 3d of August, 1849, and arrived in the latter city about the 10th.  During my absence of some five weeks, many stirring events had transpired in San Francisco.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On the 10th of July, Francis J. Lippitt, Esq., Speaker of the Legislative Assembly of the district of San Francisco, resigned his seat.  A vote of the people had been taken as to whether that body should continue to act.  The affirmative vote was 167, the negative, 7.  The smallness of the vote polled proved conclusively that a large majority of the people did not deem it necessary to vote at all.  The fact that General Riley had substantially allowed the people to choose their own officers, and especially the certain prospect that the convention would soon meet and form a State constitution, and thus give us all the relief we asked, satisfied the good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>On Sunday night, July 14th, the "Hounds" attacked and robbed several Chilian tents in San Francisco.  As this occurred during my absence at Sacramento City, I can give no account of it from my own knowledge, but must refer to the "Alta" of August 4th and succeeding numbers for a full account of that most daring crime.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Upon my return to San Francisco, I found that during my absence, and without my knowledge, my name had been used as a candidate for a seat in the Superior Tribunal, and that I had received 1,298 votes, and Mr. Dimmick 212.  My commission is in the words and figures following:</P>
055.sgm:<P>Know all men by these Presents, that I, Bennet Riley, Brevet Brigadier General U. S. Army, and Governor of California, by virtue of authority in me vested, do hereby appoint and commission Peter H. Burnett Judge or Minister of the Superior Tribunal of California, to date from the 1st day of August, 1849.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SEAL.     Given under my hand and seal at Monterey, California, this 13th day of August, A. D. 1849.</P>
055.sgm:<P>B. Riley,</P>
055.sgm:<P>Bt. Brigd. Genl. U. S. A., and Governor of California.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Official.</P>
055.sgm:<P>H. W. Halleck,</P>
055.sgm:<P>Bt. Capt. and Secty. of State.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Before my family left Oregon in May, my eldest daughter, then sixteen, was attacked with what her physician afterward decided to be consumption.  The voyage by sea gave her temporary relief, but the cold winds of San Francisco soon increased the serious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I at once determined that she should take no more medicine, and should at least die in peace.  I remembered that our physician in Missouri, Dr. Ware S. May, had told me that patients were sometimes starved to death, and that he had known of such cases.  Mr. Moffat, an assayer of San Francisco, mentioned to me a case within his own knowledge, where the life of the patient was saved by eating a little beefsteak.  The medicines taken by my daughter had so deranged the tone of her stomach that she could retain nothing that she ate, and had not the least appetite, but a great aversion for food of every kind.  I persuaded her to eat a mouthful of broiled steak, which she at once threw up; but I immediately urged her to try again, and this morsel she was able to retain.  From that time she rapidly improved.  Believing that the climate of San Francisco was injurious to her health, I decided to leave the city.  I could only <HI REND="italics">then</HI>
055.sgm:<P>As illustrative of those times, I will relate two occurrences.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I employed a man named Wistman, with a large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I was the owner of a number of lots in Sacramento City; and one day in August a gentleman of my acquaintance came to my little office in San Francisco, and said to me: "Mr.-- and myself will give you fifty thousand dollars in gold-dust for one undivided half of your Sacramento City property--one half cash, and the other half by the first of January next; and we want an answer by ten to-morrow morning."  I promptly replied that I would give an answer at the time mentioned.  I at once consulted Mrs. Burnett, and we decided that we would accept the offer, with certain reservations.  Next morning the gentleman was at my office at the precise hour for an answer.  I told him I would accept the offer, with the exception of a few lots that I mentioned.  He at once replied, "All right."  There happened to be present a mutual friend from Sacramento City, a man about fifty years of age; and this gentleman at once rose from his seat, and, seizing the hand of the first gentleman, he warmly congratulated him upon the splendid purchase he and his partner had made, saying there was a large fortune in the property.  During this long-continued burst of enthusiasm I sat perfectly quiet; but, so soon as I could be heard, I said: "Gentlemen, I am glad to learn that I am a much richer man than I supposed I was.  If these gentlemen can make a fortune out of the undivided half they have purchased, what do you think I can make out of my half, and the fifty thousand dollars to begin with?"  This view of the case rather cooled their enthusiasm.</P>
055.sgm:<P>During the year 1848 there were very few, if any, thefts committed in California.  The honest miners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>On one occasion, in the fall of 1849, a tall, handsome young fellow , dressed in a suit of fine broadcloth, and mounted upon a splendid horse, stole a purse of gold-dust from an honest miner, and fled from the camp.  The thief took the plain wagon-road that led around a tall mountain, while his pursuers took a shorter route across, reached a mining camp where there was an alcalde in advance of the thief, and quietly awaited his arrival.  In due time the thief appeared, mounted upon his splendid steed, and was at once arrested, and promptly tried before the alcalde.  After hearing all the testimony, the alcalde said to the prisoner: "The Court thinks it right that you should return that purse of gold to its owner."  To this the culprit readily assented, and handed over the purse.  The alcalde then informed him that the Court also thought he ought to pay the costs of the proceedings.  To this the culprit made not the slightest objection (thinking he was very fortunate to escape so easily), but inquired the amount of the costs.  The alcalde informed him that the costs amounted to two ounces of gold-dust.  This the prisoner cheerfully paid.  "Now," said the alcalde, "there is another part of the sentence of this Court that has not been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:mentioned yet; and that is, that you receive thirty-nine lashes on your bare back, well laid on."  The punishment was promptly inflicted, and, of course, the transgressor thought his way hard.  He could only boast that he was "whipped and cleared."<ANCHOR ID="n8-2">*</ANCHOR>
055.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-2">The origin of this phrase was as follows:  In the early days of Missouri, Thomas ---- was arrested, indicted, tried, and convicted of grand larceny in stealing a horse, and was sentenced by the Court to receive thirty-nine lashes on his bare back.  After he was whipped and discharged, he met an acquaintance who inquired how he came out.  He promptly replied: "First-rate.  Whipped and cleared."</NOTE>
055.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1849 William B. Almond, then late of Missouri, became the Judge of the Court of First Instance, in civil cases, for the district of San Francisco.  There are proper times and places for all proper things; and no sensible man would approve of Yankee Doodle at a funeral or of Old Hundred at a ball.  There are <HI REND="italics">right</HI>
055.sgm: things to be done, and proper <HI REND="italics">modes</HI>
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055.sgm:<P>He accordingly allowed each lawyer appearing before him to speak five minutes, and no more.  If a lawyer insisted upon further time, the Judge would good-humoredly say that he would allow the additional time upon condition that the Court should decide the case against his client.  Of course, the attorney submitted the case upon his speech of five minutes.  At first the members of the bar were much displeased with this concise and summary administration of justice; but in due time they saw it was the only sensible, practical, and just mode of conducting judicial proceedings under the then extraordinary condition of society in California.  They found that, while Judge Almond made mistakes of law as well as other judges, his decisions were generally correct and <HI REND="italics">always</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The state of society in California in 1849 was indeed extraordinary.  There were so few families, so few old men, and so many young and middle-aged adventurers, all so eager in search of riches, that a state of things then existed which perhaps has no parallel.  Young men just from college, arriving in San Francisco, and never having been accustomed to manual labor, would hire themselves out as porters, journeymen carpenters, and draymen. One young man, who barely knew how to use a hand-saw well, hired himself to a boss carpenter.  After working a day or two, he was paid off and discharged, and then went to another and another, repeating the same trick.  When all were strangers to each other, all stood upon the same basis as to character and qualifications.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>As illustrative of those times, I will relate the following incident:</P>
055.sgm:<P>Before leaving Weston, Missouri, for Oregon, in May, 1843, I was well acquainted with Thomas ----.  He was then about thirty years of age, was of poor but honest parentage, could scarcely read or write, and had then never worn any but homespun clothes.  He was a very skillful ox-driver and a good fiddler, and this was the extent of his capacity.  Because of his skill in managing oxen, I employed him to drive one of my teams for a day or two, until my oxen were trained.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I left him in Missouri in 1843; but, when I arrived at Sutter's Fort in December, 1848, I found him and his family residing in the vicinity.  His wife was a plain, good, domestic woman, and Tom himself was considered a <HI REND="italics">clever</HI>
055.sgm: fellow, in the American sense of that term.  During the early spring of 1849 I sold him several lots in Sacramento City, upon the resale of which in the fall of that year he realized a net profit of twenty-five thousand dollars.  Flushed with this sudden and extraordinary success, he dressed himself in the finest suit of clothes he could procure.  He possessed a tall, straight, trim figure, and when thus attired was a very handsome man.  Taking advantage of the circumstances, he commenced the practice of medicine.  A carpenter named Stincen, who had known Tom well in Weston, came to Sacramento City in the fall of 1849, and soon met Tom arrayed in his splendid apparel.  Stincen was a man of excellent sense, and possessed a keen perception of the ridiculous.  "How are you, Tom?" said he.  "First rate."  "How are you getting alone?"  "Splendid."  "What are you doing?"  "Come and see."  He took Stincen a short distance, and showed him a splendid mule, rigged up in superb style, with new saddle, bridle, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Stincen himself related this interview to me, and it is no doubt true.</P>
055.sgm:<P>VISIT MONTEREY--ANNOUNCE MYSELF A CANDIDATE FOR GOVERNOR--ELECTED--INAUGURAL ADDRESS. About the 13th of September I left San Jose&acute; for Monterey, to assist in holding a term of the Superior Tribunal.  Four persons had been nominated by the people at the election held August 1st, who were subsequently appointed and commissioned by General Riley.  These were Jose&acute; M. Covarubias, Pacificus Ord, Lewis Dent, and Peter H. Burnett.  The last-named was chosen Chief Justice by the other Judges.  The business before the Court was very small.  No appeals had been taken; they were not common in those days.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I remained in Monterey until about the last of September.  The proceedings of the Convention, which assembled on the first of that month, had progressed favorably, so far as to leave no reasonable doubt as to the final result, and I then announced myself a candidate for Governor.  I arrived in San Jose&acute; about the 5th of October, and left there, to make the canvass, about the 20th.  I reached San Francisco on the evening of the same day, and remained there three days.  When I left <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>One of my opponents, Winfield Scott Sherwood, Esq., proposed that we should submit our claims to a committee of mutual friends, and let them decide which of us should withdraw.  I declined this proposition, and at once set out to speak to the people.  I left San Francisco about the 23d of October for Sacramento City, on board a very small steamer, the second one that ever ascended the Sacramento River.  It was full of passengers, and was so small that they were frequently ordered to trim the boat.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On my arrival at Sacramento City, I addressed a large meeting of the people.  From that city I went to Mormon Island on the American River, and made a speech.  From there I passed to Coloma, the point where gold was first discovered, and addressed the people at that place; and then to Placerville, where I again addressed a large meeting.  From Placerville I returned to Sacramento City on the 29th of October.  On my way I spent the night of the 28th at Mud Springs, in an hotel kept in a large canvas tent.  They gave me a very fine bed to sleep in, and treated me most kindly.</P>
055.sgm:<P>During the day the wind commenced blowing briskly from the south.  After we had all retired to bed, the rain began to fall heavily, and the storm became so severe that the fastenings of the tent gave way,and nothin was left of the frame but the main upright pole, about thirty feet high, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I remained in Sacramento City until the 5th of November, when the majestic steamer Senator arrived for the first time.  The banks of the river, on Front Street, were thronged with people to witness her approach.  She was to us a most beautiful object.  I came down on board of her, and paid thirty dollars for my passage, and two dollars in addition for my dinner.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I passed through San Francisco, and arrived at San Jose&acute; about the 8th of November.  After making a speech to the people of that city, I went again to San Francisco, where I spoke to an immense assemblage in Portsmouth Square.  A platform about six feet high, and large enough to seat about a hundred persons, was made of rough boards and scantling.  The main audience stood in front, on the ground.  In the midst of my address the platform gave way and fell to the ground, except a small portion where I was standing.  I paused only for a moment, and then went on with my speech, remarking that, though others might fall, I would be sure to stand.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I was in the city until the 13th of November, the day of the general election, at which the State constitution was ratified, and the principal State officers, Senators, members of the Assembly, and Congressmen were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Both Houses of the Legislature assembled on Saturday, December 15, 1849, as required by the constitution.  The Governor elect was inaugurated at one o'clock P. M. on Thursday, December 20th, and took the following oath:</P>
055.sgm:<P>"I, Peter H. Burnett, do solemnly swear that I will support the Constitution of the United States and the constitution of the State of California, and with faithfully discharge the duties of the office of Governor of the State of California, according to the best of my ability."</P>
055.sgm:<P>After taking this oath, I delivered the following address:</P>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Gentlemen of the Senate and Assembly</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Nature, in her kindness and beneficence, has distinguished California by great and decided natural advantages; and these great natural resources will make her either a very great or a very sordid and petty State.  She can take no middle course.  She will either be distinguished among her sister States as one of the leading Stars of the Union, or she will sink into comparative insignificance.  She has many dangers to encounter, many perils to meet.  In all those countries where rich and extensive mines of the precious metals have been heretofore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>But I anticipate for her a proud and happy destiny.  If she had only her gold-mines, the danger would be imminent; but she has still greater and more commanding interests than this--interests that seldom or never enervate or stultify a people, but on the contrary tend, in their very nature, to excite and nourish industry, enterprise, and virtue.  I mean her agricultural and commercial advantages.  While our mines will supply us with ample capital, and our fine agricultural lands will furnish us with provisions, our great and decided commercial facilities and position will give full and active employment to the energies and enterprise of our people, and will prevent them from sinking into that state of apathy and indifference which can not exist in a commercial and active community.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Our new State will soon take her equal station among the other States of the Union.  When admitted a member of that great sisterhood, she will occupy an important position, imposing upon her new and great responsibilities.  She can never forget what is due to herself, much less can she forget what is due to the whole Union.  Her destiny will be united with that of her sister States, and she will form one of the links of that bright chain that binds together the happy millions of the American people.</P>
055.sgm:<P>How wide and extended is our expanding country!  With only thirteen States and three millions of inhabitants originally, we have grown in the short space of three quarters of a century to be one of the greatest nations of the earth.  With a Federal Government to manage and control our external relations with the world at large, and State governments to regulate our internal and business relations with each other, our system is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>With the most ardent desire to do my duty fully and frankly toward our new and rising State, I pledge you my most cordial coo&die;peration in your efforts to promote the happiness of California and the Union.  For the principles that will govern me in my administration of the executive department of the State, I beg leave to refer you to my forthcoming message.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I thank you, gentlemen, for the kindness and courtesy you have shown me, and hope that your labors may redound to your own honor and the happiness of your constituents.</P>
055.sgm:<P>THE CHINESE--REASONS FOR THEIR EXCLUSION--THE BURLINGAME TREATY. In the view of many most humane and devoted people, our country should be thrown open to all the world, with the right not only of domicile, but of citizenship.  Regarding, as I do myself, all mankind as of the same origin, these persons seem to think that the population of the globe should be left, like water, to find its own level.  But this comprehensive and apparently just view is too liberal for practical statesmanship.  The <HI REND="italics">practical</HI>
055.sgm: result would be, that the Mongolian race (the most numerous of the families of mankind) would in due time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The Chinese Empire is one of vast extent, everywhere under the same compact government.  It contains four hundred millions of people, about equal to one third the population of the world.  These people esteem their country (and with much apparent reason) as the oldest, wealthiest, and grandest empire upon this earth.  No other people are so proud of their country, or so inveterately attached to it, as are the Chinese.  But, while they regard their country with so much admiration and affection as not to desire a <HI REND="italics">permanent</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Their policy of isolation, continued for a long series of centuries, has made their people peaceable, economical, loyal, and industrious; and, in the general absence of foreign and domestic wars, the population has increased, under the legitimate effects of this policy, to such enormous proportions as to become suffering and corrupt.</P>
055.sgm:<P>For thousands of years the Chinese have been accustomed to live upon as little as would possibly support human life.  For ages upon ages their inventive faculties seem to have lain dormant.  Their rulers and statesmen have, during long periods in the past, opposed all labor-saving inventions, for the simple reason that their labor-market was overstocked.  They seldom or never change the style or character of their manufactured articles, or their fashions of  dress, because such changes would violate their most rigid rules  of economy.  The style of dress for the laboring classes is the  simplest and cheapest possible, consistent with ease and comfort.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Their merchants are very intelligent men in their line of business.  I was well acquainted with Fung Tang, the Chinese orator and merchant.  He was a cultivated man, well read in the history of the world, spoke four or five different languages fluently, including English, and was a most agreeable gentleman, of easy and pleasing manners.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When the Chinese merchants first arrived in San Francisco, and for a time thereafter, they made all their purchases of our merchants for cash.  Within a short period they learned that, according to our mercantile usages, cash sales meant payment on steamer-day; and, as these days were semi-monthly, they readily availed themselves of the credit they could thus obtain.  A little later they purchased on thirty, forty, and sixty days' time.  In short, they learned all our usages that promised them any advantages, except the three days' grace on promissory notes and bills of exchange.  That provision no Chinese merchant ever learned; so that, if a Chinaman made his note payable on the first day of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:June, he would pay on that day, though legally entitled to wait till the fourth.  There is something so inconsistent in the position that, although a note by its <HI REND="italics">express</HI>
055.sgm:<P>While they are perfectly willing themselves to purchase on credit, they decline to sell to our people on time.  One of our leading merchants, on one occasion, determined to monopolize all the rice in San Francisco.  To carry out this purpose, he went to a large wholesale Chinese rice-house, and said to the owner, "Suppose I should wish to purchase two thousand bags of rice, could you supply me with that number?"  "Yes, me sell you that number."  After quietly talking some time, the American merchant again asked, "Could you sell me four thousand?"  "Yes, me sell you four thousand."  The American merchant continued the conversation about other matters for some time, and then quietly said, "Suppose I should conclude to take six thousand, could you supply that number?"  "Yes, me sell you six thousand."  "Would you give me any time?"  "Me know you one very rich Melican merchant.  Me give you time.  You pay me one half when the rice is weighed, and the other half when it is on the dray."</P>
055.sgm:<P>Born and nursed in poverty, and early trained in the severe schools of unremitting toil and extreme economy, the Chinaman is more than a match for the white man in the struggle for existence.  The white man can do as much work, and as skillfully, as the Chinaman; but he <HI REND="italics">can not live so cheaply</HI>
055.sgm:.  It would require many centuries of inexorable training to bring the white man down to the low level of the Chinese mode of living.  Were Chinamen permitted to settle in our country at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:their pleasure, and were they granted all the rights and privileges of the whites, and the laws were then impartially and efficiently administered, so that the two races would stand <HI REND="italics">precisely</HI>
055.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">practically</HI>
055.sgm: equal in <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
055.sgm:<P>We have not yet had a full and fair opportunity to study Chinese character, as those among us are, by circumstances, put upon their very best behavior.  The same number of Americans placed in China would prove very peaceable and industrious.  This would necessarily be so.  Small bodies of men living in a foreign country, perfectly defenseless, and with full knowledge that they are at the mercy of the natives, will be very apt to act most prudently.  In comparing the Chinese with our own people, a fair and just allowance should be made for the difference in their respective positions.</P>
055.sgm:<P>If two equally poor young men of the same capacity and health should start in life together at the age of twenty-one, and obtain the same compensation and continue so for ten years, and one should be a good economist and save up a portion of his income each year, and the other should spend all his as fast as received, at the end of the ten years the first would be in independent circumstances, while the other would be as poor as at the beginning, and would have lost ten years of his business life.  Such are the effects of economy even for short periods of time.  But extend this practice of saving for a hundred years, and the effects will be surprising.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It is painful to the thoughtful and reflective to see a proscribed class of men in any community.  It is more especially so in a republic, where every citizen is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:sovereign, where the laws are practically made by the majority, and where the officers charged with the execution of the same are elected by this majority.  Under such a theory of government, no unpopular law can be fairly enforced.  You may speak, write, and publish all that can be said upon the subject, and still the laws can not be practically and efficiently administered for the protection of an unpopular class of men.  Modes of evasion will be successfully resorted to.  We see this fully exemplified here in San Francisco.  While parents will not very often openly assault Chinamen in the streets of the city, they can manage to show their hostility through their children.  The young are natural tyrants, and, when they find victims upon whom they can practice this tyranny with impunity, they never fail to do it.  It is very difficult, if not impossible, for the police and other officers of the law to prevent this violence in children, when they are not restrained, but rather encouraged, by their parents and a majority of the voters.  The worst effect of the presence of the Chinese among us is the fact that it is making <HI REND="italics">tyrants and lawless ruffians of our boys</HI>
055.sgm:<P>I have long been opposed to the residence of the Chinese among us, except for purposes of trade.  This opposition is not based upon any prejudice against the race, for I am not conscious of prejudices against any race of men.  I believe, with St. Paul, in the unity of the human race, as expressed in the twenty-sixth verse of the seventeenth chapter of Acts.  But, while I am opposed to the residence of Chinese laborers among us, I am equally opposed to all illegal methods of preventing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The Burlingame treaty should have been so framed as to allow the <HI REND="italics">merchants</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The Chinese Empire will not probably sustain for the future the same relative position toward the other nations of the world that it has done for many ages past.  The civilized nations found the Chinese isolated from the other peoples of the earth, and brought such influences to bear upon their Government as to induce a departure, at least in part, from the former policy.  This is only the beginning of an entire change.  The rulers and statesmen of that country will soon learn, especially from the ambassadors they are now sending <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>GENERAL RILEY--JUDGE THOMAS--VARIABLE PRICES--MONOPOLIES. ON the 22d of December, 1849, I sent the following message, with accompanying documents, to the Legislature:</P>
055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SAN JOSE&acute;, <HI REND="italics">December</HI>
055.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN OF THE SENATE AND ASSEMBLY: I take pleasure in placing before you the two accompanying proclamations issued by the late Governor Riley, and respectfully suggest that a convenient number be printed for distribution.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It has been my happiness to have long known Governor Riley, and I can say, in all sincerity and candor, that there does not exist, in my opinion, a more ardent and devoted friend of his country,or one who has served her more faithfully; and I desire to put on record this humble testimony to the character and services of one who has done so much for the people of California, and enjoys so fully their confidence and esteem.</P>
055.sgm:<P>PETER H. BURNETT.</P>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Proclamation.  To the People of California</HI>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Now, therefore</HI>
055.sgm:, I, Bennet Riley, Brevet Brigadier General U.S. Army, and Governor of California, do hereby proclaim <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Given at Monterey, California, this 12th day of December, 1849.</P>
055.sgm:<P>(Signed)<HSEP>B. Riley,</P>
055.sgm:<P>Bt. Brig. Gen. U.S.A. and Governor of California. By the Governor.</P>
055.sgm:<P>H. W. HALLECK, Bt. Capt. and Secretary of State.</P>
055.sgm:<P>On March 30, 1850, the Convention of both Houses unanimously elected James S. Thomas Judge of the Sixth Judicial District of California, which district included Sacramento City.  He returned to Missouri within a year or two thereafter, married, and then took up his residence in St. Louis, where I saw him in the fall of 1856.  He was then far gone in consumption, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The rainy season of 1849-'50 set in on the night of October 28, 1849, and terminated March 22, 1850.  It was one of our wettest seasons.  The rainfall that season, as shown by the rain-gauge kept by Dr. Logan at Sacramento City, was upward of thirty-six inches.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The first session of our Legislature was one of the best we have ever had.  The members were honest, indefatigable workers.  The long-continued rainy season and the want of facilities for dispatching business were great obstacles in their way.  Besides, they had to begin at the beginning, and create an entire new code of statute law, with but very few authorities to consult.   The Convention that framed our Constitution and the first session of our Legislature were placed in the same position in this respect.  Under the circumstances, their labors were most creditable to them.  They had not only few authorities to consult, but their time was short.  At the close of the session, the bills came into my hands so rapidly that it was a physical impossibility to read them all myself within the time allowed me.  I was, therefore, compelled to refer some to the Secretary of State, and others to my Private Secretary, and approve them after a single reading upon their recommendation.  I had to do this, or let the State government go on with a mutilated code of statutory law, or call an extra session.</P>
055.sgm:<P>During the winter of 1849-'50 the prices of provisions were most exorbitant.  This was owing to monopolies and the great cost of transportation over bad roads.  In many mining localities flour was sold at from fifty cents to one dollar a pound.  At San Jose&acute; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>For some years California was subject to extremely low and high markets.  Everything was imported, and nothing made.  We were so distant from the sources of supply, and our communication with New York so infrequent, being by monthly steamers, that speculators often monopolized all of certain articles.  One large operator purchased all the flour, and others different articles of prime necessity.  On one occasion one man went around San Francisco and bought up all the cut tacks in the city, and then put up the price to a high figure.  At one time the country would be overstocked, and then prices would recede to so low a figure that importations into the State would cease for a time.  The article of shot in the summer of 1849 was worth only one dollar and twenty-five cents per bag of twenty-five pounds, and in the following winter readily brought ten dollars per bag.  Iron at one time was scarcely worth the storage.  So of mining implements and many other supplies.  Speculators would at such times monopolize these articles and put up the prices.</P>
055.sgm:<P>AGRICULTURAL CHARACTER OF THE STATE--NATIVE GRASSES ANNUAL NOT PERENNIAL--NATIVE CLOVER. Our agriculture may be said to have fairly started in the spring of 1850.  Before that time cultivation in California was very limited.  The few people residing in the country before gold was discovered found rearing stock far more profitable than agriculture.  Land was very cheap, and pasturage was most ample; and no people will undergo the drudgery of farming when they can do better with less hard work.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>At the time I delivered my inaugural address in December, 1849, very few, if any, believed with me that our agricultural and commercial interests were greater and more commanding than our mineral resources; but time has shown the correctness of the opinion then expressed.  For some years after the organization of the State government, the members of the Senate and Assembly from the mining counties constituted a large majority in the Legislature, and controlled the action of that body.  But time has essentially changed this state of things, and has given the control to the agricultural counties and the manufacturing and commercial cities.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As heretofore stated, the western side of the continent of North America is Asiatic in its main geographical features, and differs very much from the gently undulating country east of the Rocky Mountains.  It is a country of mountains and valleys.  Our hills generally swell into tall mountains, and our valleys appear to the eye to be substantially dead smooth levels; but they descend about nine to ten feet to the mile.  The formation of these valleys is very different from that of the agricultural lands east.</P>
055.sgm:<P>For the sake of illustration, I will take the valley of San Jose&acute;, to which I can almost apply the beautiful and ardent language of Moore: "There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet."  This valley has an average width of about ten miles, and a length of about seventy.  On the surface there is a stratum of clay, varying in thickness from ten to fifteen feet.  Beneath this is a stratum of gravel about five feet thick, beneath that another stratum of clay, and then other alternate strata of clay and gravel.  On each side of this long valley there is a range of tall mountains, and from the edges <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>During our long dry season, the various living streams from the mountains pour their treasures of water into the valley, but in most cases the water runs but a short distance after entering the valley, being soon swallowed up by the various strata of gravel, through which it percolates slowly, and passes underground into the bays.  As there is a descent of about nine or ten feet to the mile, and as the banks of these streams in the valley are only from six to eight feet high, it will be readily seen that, one mile below the point where the water from the mountains enters the strata of gravel, the surface of the valley will be upon a level with the point mentioned; and two miles below that point the surface will be from ten to twelve feet below it.  As you go farther down the valley, the surface will be correspondingly lower.  As the water percolates slowly through these strata of gravel, the pressure to rise to the surface becomes so strong that the strata of clay above are kept wet even in the dry season; so that, while the moisture necessary to mature the crops east of the Rocky Mountains comes down from above in the shape of rain, in California it comes up by pressure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>But, besides these facts, our mild winter climate aids us very materially.  If grain be sown before or soon after the fall rains set in, it will attain a considerable growth during the winter, which substantially ends by the first of February.  By the time the rains cease in March, the grain will have attained a height of from six to ten inches, forming an impenetrable green sward, through which the sun's rays can not penetrate to the earth.  For about six weeks after the cessation of the main rainy season the dews fall heavily, and this moisture sinks into the ground.  As the evaporation is very little until the wheat begins to head, there is enough moisture left with the aid of that which comes from below, to mature the crops of grain.</P>
055.sgm:<P>All our native grasses, with a very few exceptions in rare localities, are annual and not perennial, as they are in most other countries.  The seeds of the various native grasses ripen in June, and fall to the ground and into the small crevices produced by the drying of the surface.  When the fall rains set in, these seeds begin to sprout; and, although their growth during the winter is slow, it is fast enough to keep the stock alive in many cases.  In other cases they have to be fed for a little while.  Grasses that are elsewhere grown for hay are never cultivated in California, as the most productive hay-crop is either barley or the smooth-head wheat.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We have a peculiar native clover which produces a rich seed.  In each small, prickly, spiral burr there are from five to seven flat, yellow seeds, about as large as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Bountiful crops of Indian corn are grown in certain localities without any rain whatever, as the corn is planted after the rains cease.  The cultivator of this grain selects a rich soil in a valley and near some mountain, from which the moisture comes underground steadily during the growing season.  This water percolates strata of gravel, and rises slowly to the surface of the ground.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The observations I have made apply to the ordinary seasons in California.  At intervals we have a famine year, when there is almost an entire failure of crops in three fourths of the State.  Our average annual rainfall at Sacramento (which may be regarded as an average point for the agricultural valleys of the country) is about twenty inches.  With fifteen inches of rain we can make good crops.  In the winters of 1850-'51, 1863-'64, and 1876-'77, our rainfall was about seven inches.  The summers of 1851, 1864, and 1877 were our driest seasons since I have been in California; and they were just thirteen years apart.  Between these extremely dry seasons there were seasons comparatively <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>THE SQUIRRELS OF CALIFORNIA--THEIR PECULIAR CHARACTERISTICS-- SPECULATIVE CHARACTER OF OUR FARMERS--UNCERTAINTY OF WEALTH IN THIS STATE--INCIDENTS. One of the greatest obstacles agriculture has had to meet in California was caused by the millions of squirrels.  Our squirrel is of a dirty-gray color, very much resembling that of dry grass, and is about twice as heavy as the gray squirrel of the Mississippi valley, but not so active and beautiful.  These creatures live in communities, like the prairie-dogs of the plains.  They select the highest and driest localities in the valleys, so as to escape the floods of winter, and there make their homes by burrowing in the ground.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Before the country was inhabited by Americans, these pests were not very troublesome, because cultivation was then so limited, and their excessive increase was prevented by the coyotes (small wolves) and snakes, then very numerous.  But, when our people came to the country, they soon destroyed the coyotes by poison and the rifle, and killed the snakes; and, as the squirrels, like other little animals, multiply rapidly, they soon became so numerous as to destroy whole fields of growing grain, even before the berries had formed in the heads.</P>
055.sgm:<P>These animals, which are almost as sensitive to cold as the alligator, lay up a sufficient store of provisions in summer, and confine themselves to their homes during winter.  Even in summer they generally do not make their appearance until after sunrise.  When they become <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The best way to destroy them in the valleys is to cultivate by deep plowing the sites of their villages.  By keeping the ground well pulverized upon the surface, the water in our very rainy winters will penetrate to their beds and destroy the squirrels, as they can not exist except in dry and warm homes.  The water also destroys their stock of provisions.  In some localities the streams are turned out in the winter, and made to overflow large tracts of level land.  Vast numbers have been thus destroyed.  When their holes are full of water, they will come out wet, sit on the tops of the little hills formed by the earth thrown out from the holes, and, if not disturbed, remain there until they perish with cold.</P>
055.sgm:<P>By poison and other means of destruction, these little pests have been generally destroyed in the fertile valleys; but in the foothills, and other localities that can not be cultivated, they are still most destructive.  They feed upon the young green plants as well as upon the ripened grain.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>Farming in California, like most other pursuits, has been speculative.  A man would come from the mines with say ten thousand dollars, and would lease from one to two hundred acres of good wheat-land.  With his own money he could purchase his seed-grain, and pay for a part of his hired labor.  He would purchase his farming implements, harness, and work-animals on credit, and draw upon his commission merchant for provisions and other supplies.  If the season proved propitious, and the price of grain high, he would net from twenty to thirty thousand dollars on his first crop, and then probably lose it the next or some subsequent year.  If he failed, he would be off to the mines again.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Before the production of grain in California and Oregon was equal to the home demand, the prices were high.  So soon as there was a surplus for exportation, the home price was governed by the foreign demand, without regard to the quantity grown on this coast.  Our farmers commenced with high prices for grain, and paid high wages for labor.  But the prices of grain receded in many instances faster than the rates of wages.  A farmer in Alameda County employed an honest, industrious, sober, and careful Irishman for five years at the monthly wages of fifty dollars, the employer furnishing board, lodging, washing, and mending.  At the end of that time he said to the Irishman: "I can not afford to pay you the wages I have been paying.  It is true, I own my farm and stock, and I am not in debt.  You have saved up a good sum of money, and I have saved nothing.  You have made all the money, and, if things go on in this way, you will soon own my farm, and then what shall I do?"  "Well," answered the Irishman, "I will hire you to work for me, and you will get your farm back again."  In California it has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>When I took up my residence in San Jose&acute; in 1849, Grove C. Cook, then aged about fifty, was one of the wealthy men of that city.  He had lived some years in the Rocky Mountains as a trapper or trader, but came to San Jose&acute; some years before the discovery of gold, and had acquired a considerable amount of real estate, the enhanced value of which made him comparatively a rich man.  He was generous, kind-hearted, and witty.  Soon after the State organization, the population of San Jose&acute; rapidly increased; and, as hotels and boarding-houses were few, the young lawyers and others about the city, who were "too proud to work and too genteel to steal," induced Cook to open a boarding-house.  After he had been running this new establishment for some months, he found it a ruinous business to him, and said to some of his friends, "I have the most extraordinary set of boarders in the world.  They never miss a meal or pay a dime."</P>
055.sgm:<P>Such cases were very common in California.  A man kept a boarding-house at a mining camp, and his boarders did not pay.  He called them up and informed them that he could not afford to keep them without pay, and asked them what they would advise him to do.  They replied that, if he could not afford to keep them without pay, they would advise him to sell out to some one who could.</P>
055.sgm:<P>A lawyer about thirty-five years of age induced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>By going upon the official bonds and endorsing the notes of others, Cook soon lost most of his property.  "He had his joke, and they had his estate."</P>
055.sgm:<P>For some years after the discovery of gold in California it was dangerous for a man of property to be absent from the State even for a few months, as others were almost certain to administer upon his estate during his absence in some form or other.  If he appointed an agent, the owner would be very likely to find upon his return that his agent had sold his property and absconded with the proceeds.  If he left no agent, he found his real estate in possession of squatters.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In some cases regular letters of administration were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>INCREDULITY OF THE PEOPLE EAST AS TO THE TRUE FACTS IN REGARD TO CALIFORNIA--SCURVY--ADMISSION OF CALIFORNIA INTO THE UNION--STAGE-RACE--CHOLERA. The productions of California are so different from those of the States east of the Rocky Mountains that the people of the older States would not for some years believe the truth, though stated by the most worthy and reliable persons.  As illustrative of this state of incredulity, I will relate the following incidents:</P>
055.sgm:<P>Cary Peebles (now a resident of Santa Clara County) and myself were schoolmates in old Franklin, Missouri, as early as 1820.  When gold was discovered in California, he resided in Lafayette, one of the best counties in Missouri, where he kept a country store.  Late in the fall of 1848 he received a long letter from a trustworthy friend in California, giving a fair and truthful description of our gold-mines.  A large crowd assembled at the store to hear this letter read.  Peebles had not proceeded far with the reading when some one in the crowd gave a loud, shrill whistle, and then exclaimed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Page, Bacon &amp; Co. were extensive bankers in St. Louis; and in the latter part of 1849, or the beginning of 1850, they established two branches of their house in California--one in San Francisco, and the other in Sacramento City.  The senior partner, "old man Page," commenced business in St. Louis in early manhood as a baker, prospered in that line for a time, and then commenced banking, and still prospered.  The branch in San Francisco was managed by Judge Chambers and Henry Haight, and that in Sacramento City by Frank Page, son of the senior partner.  In 1852 Frank returned to St. Louis on a visit; and one day at dinner, at his father's house, they had some onions on the table.  Frank remarked that those were very small onions.  His father replied that they were the largest to be had in the market.  Frank very innocently and thoughtlessly said that in California we grew onions almost as large as a man's hat-crown.  Upon this the fifteen or twenty guests at table threw themselves back in their seats and laughed most immoderately.  Frank was deeply mortified, because he was perfectly alone and entirely helpless.  He had always been truthful; and, while they were too polite to say in words that they did not believe him, they plainly said so by their actions.  During the remainder of his visit, whenever, in answer to inquiries, he would state any fact in regard to California that exceeded their Missouri experience, his father <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1853 the old gentleman himself came to California for the first time.  Frank had not forgotten the treatment he received in St. Louis, and, when his father came to Sacramento City, quietly invited him to take a walk.  He took his father around the city, and, after showing him various establishments, brought him to a large agricultural warehouse, where he showed him large beets, squashes, melons, and potatoes.  Finally stopping in front of some sacks containing large onions, he said, "Father, look there," and then took off his hat and slowly ran his thumb around the crown as his father had done, and slyly asked his father what he thought of those onions.  The old man gazed with surprise at the onions, his face flushed, and after a time he said, "Frank, I give up.  I never could have believed that onions so large could be grown anywhere, had I not seen them with my own eyes."</P>
055.sgm:<P>On one occasion, one of our people was returning east upon a visit, and took with him one of our large potatoes, carefully put up in whisky to prevent shrinkage.  One day, in a large concourse of people in New York, the conversation turned upon the size of California vegetables.  He said that he had seen potatoes weighing so much each.  His statement being disputed, he put them to silence by producing his potato.</P>
055.sgm:<P>There are very good reasons why our vegetables are so large.  First, the soil is very rich; secondly, there is an ample and uniform supply of moisture by irrigation; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>375</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Before the production of a sufficient supply of vegetables in California, those working in the mines were often afflicted with scurvy.  These attacks ceased with ample supplies of fresh meats and vegetables.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The State of California was admitted into the Union September 9, 1850.  It so happened that I arrived in San Francisco, on my return from Sacramento City, the same day of the arrival of the steamer from Panama bringing the welcome intelligence of this event.  We had a large and enthusiastic meeting in Portsmouth Square that evening.  Next morning I left for San Jose&acute; on one of Crandall's stages.  He was one of the celebrated stage-men of California, like Foss and Monk.  He was a most excellent man, and a cool, kind, but determined and skillful driver.  On this occasion he drove himself, and I occupied the top front seat beside him.  There were then two rival stage-lines to San Jose&acute;, and this was the time to test their speed.  After passing over the sandy road to the Mission, there was some of the most rapid driving that I ever witnessed.  The distance was some fifty miles, most of the route being over smooth, dry, hard prairie; and the drivers put their mustang teams to the utmost of their speed.  As we flew past on our rapid course, the people flocked to the road to see what caused our fast driving and loud shouting, and, without slackening our speed in the slightest degree, we took off our hats, waved them around our heads, and shouted at the tops of our voices, "California is admitted into the Union!"  Upon this announcement the people along the road cheered as loudly and heartily as possible.  I never witnessed a scene more exciting, and never felt more enthusiastic.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>376</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In November, 1850, the cholera prevailed in California to a fearful extent.  The loss in Sacramento City, according to the best estimate I am able to make, was about fifteen per cent. of the population; in San Jose&acute;, ten per cent.; and in San Francisco, five per cent.</P>
055.sgm:<P>EXTRACTS FROM MY SECOND ANNUAL MESSAGE--RESIGNATION OF THE OFFICE OF GOVERNOR. The admission of California into the Union settled all questions as to the legality of our State Government, but did not remove the difficulties incident to our peculiar condition.  The following extracts are taken from my second annual message:</P>
055.sgm:<P>The attempt to administer the State Government during the past year has been attended by many difficulties.  To start a new system under ordinary circumstances is no easy task, but no new State has ever been encompassed with so many embarrassments as California.  Our people formed a mixed and multitudinous host from all sections of our widely extended country, and from almost every clime and nation in the world, with all their discordant views, feelings, prejudices, and opinions, and, thrown together like the sudden assemblage of a mighty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>377</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The first session of the Legislature had more difficulties to meet than perhaps the Legislature of any other State.  That body had no beaten road to travel, no safe precedents to follow.  California required a <HI REND="italics">new</HI>
055.sgm:<P>On the 9th day of January, 1851, I sent to both Houses my resignation as Governor of the State in the following words:</P>
055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GENTLEMEN OF THE SENATE AND ASSEMBLY:</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>Circumstances entirely unexpected and unforeseen by me, and over which I could have no control, render it indispensable that I should devote all my time and attention to my private affairs.  I therefore tender to both Houses of the Legislature my resignation as Governor of the State.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I leave the high office to which I was called by the voluntary voice of my countrymen with but one regret--that my feeble abilities have allowed me to accomplish so little for the State.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>378</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:In the humble sphere of a private citizen, I shall still cherish for her that ardent attachment she so justly merits.  Within her serene and sunny limits I intend to spend the remainder of my days, many or few; and, should an unfortunate crisis ever arise when such a sacrifice might be available and necessary for her safety, my limited fortune and fame, and my life, will be at her disposal.<HSEP>PETER H. BURNETT.</P>
055.sgm:<P>SAN JOSE&acute;, <HI REND="italics">January 8, 1851</HI>
055.sgm:<P>This resignation was accepted, and my connection with the State as her Governor thus terminated.</P>
055.sgm:<P>RESUME THE PRACTICE OF THE LAW--DEATH OF JUDGE JONES--PASSENGERS OF THE MARGARET--A FAITHFUL SON. AFTER resigning the office of Governor, I resumed the practice of the law in partnership with C. T. Ryland and William T. Wallace.  We had a good practice; but a large portion of my own time was given to my private affairs, as they needed my prompt attention.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In December, 1851, Judge Jones died in San Jose&acute;, and I copy the account of that sad event as I find it recorded by myself, within a few day thereafter, except the day of the month, which I afterward ascertained and filled the blank I had left.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Hon. James M. Jones, Judge of the United States District Court for the Southern District of California, died at San Jose&acute; on the 15th day of December, 1851.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I can not in justice to the deceased, as well as to my own feelings, refrain from putting on record the substance of a long private interview I had with this gifted and accomplished young judge the day before his death.  I first knew the deceased, while he attended as a member of the Convention at Monterey, in September, 1849.  He was then about twenty-seven years old, a good and ripe scholar in the Spanish, French, and English <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>379</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I visited him on Sunday evening.  It was a warm, bright, and lovely day.  I found him in the last stage of consumption, wasted away to a skeleton, but in the full possession of his senses, entirely convinced of the near approach of death, and perfectly collected and resigned.  After saluting me and asking me to be seated, he held up in his thin, pale, and bloodless fingers a cross which he had suspended from his neck, and in the most feeling manner said: "Governor! this is the image of our most holy Catholic Faith--the representative of that cross upon which Jesus died.  You have doubtless heard that I had joined the venerable old Catholic Church.  I have never been an infidel.  I had examined the positive evidences for Christianity, and they greatly preponderated in favor of its truth; and, taken in connection with its appropriate fitness to man's wants and nature, it was, as a lawyer would say, a plain case upon the face of the papers.  But, although a believer in religion, I deferred embracing it, because it required me to give up pleasures that I then looked upon with affection, but which I now regard as of no moment.  I had also spent most of my time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>380</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>"And now, Governor, if I may be allowed to turn from heavenly to earthly subjects, I wish to mention a few things to you.  My father has been dead many years, and my mother was twice married.  I was a child by the first marriage.  There are two children living, the issue of the second marriage--one a son of eleven years of age, and the other a daughter of thirteen.  My brother is an innocent, prattling boy, of modest and quiet demeanor, and he loved me much.  My sister is a kind and amiable girl.  The great object I had in view in all my exertions to accumulate property was to make these children happy and comfortable.  For this end I denied myself most of the luxuries and many of the comforts of life.  I have often thought with pleasure, when refraining from some object I was tempted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>381</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>"I wished also to make my mother happy in her old age.  <HI REND="italics">And such a mother</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"I wish, Governor, to make one request of you.  I have made my will, and left Mr. Melone my executor.  I wish you to render him what assistance you can in closing up the business of my estate.  But I make this request with this distinct condition, that, if you can do more justice to your family by taking claims for collection against my estate, I wish you by all means to do so.  We are commanded to love our neighbors as ourselves; but a man's family are his nearest neighbors, and especially such a family as yours."</P>
055.sgm:<P>During this most affecting interview I could not but often weep.  When he saw me weeping he said, "Governor, you are a good Christian."</P>
055.sgm:<P>By his will he left his property in equal portions to his brother and sister, except that ten per cent. of the amount of his estate was to be appropriated in the erection of a tomb for his mother.</P>
055.sgm:<P>PETER H. BURNETT.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>382</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Among the other successful lawyers whom I have known in California, and who came here in 1849, was a young man who told me in after years the cause of his coming to this country.  His father and mother, brothers and sisters, had resided in the old homestead for many years.  It was situated in a town in one of the New England States.  It had descended to his father from his grandfather, and had been possessed by the family for one or more centuries.  Some time before he left for California, his father endorsed for a friend, and the old place had been sold to pay the debt.  From a competency and a good home, they had come to poverty.  This had caused the family much sorrow.  His parents were too old to begin life anew successfully.  He himself was just setting out in life.  Under these painful circumstances, he said, he determined with himself that he would come to California, and, if brains and honest industry would succeed, he would accumulate enough means to repurchase the old family mansion, and make his old parents comfortable the remainder of their lives.  He was successful; and within a few years he returned with ample funds, repurchased the ancestral domicile, and placed his parents within the pleasant old home in which he himself was born.  During their remaining days they were well provided for by this faithful son.</P>
055.sgm:<P>But, while a portion of those who came early to California to improve their condition succeeded well, much the larger number utterly failed.  Many came to premature deaths by violence, accidents, and sickness caused by excessive hardships and privations.  I should think that about thirty per cent. of the early immigrants perished in this manner.  I was told that a party of about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>383</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>As illustrative of the sad fates of so many in early life, I will quote the following lines, composed by B. L. d'Aumaile while a prisoner in San Francisco, and first published in the latter part of 1856 or the beginning of 1857.  There was reason to believe that the author was not guilty of the crime alleged against him.  The first graveyard in San Francisco was on Russian Hill, so named from the fact that the first person buried there was a native of Russia.  Though the fates of the passengers of the Margaret were exceptionally sad, they are still illustrative of the conditions of the early goldseekers.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I stood on the barren summit<LB>Of the lonely Russian Hill,<LB>With a grass-grown grave beside me,<LB>On a Sabbath morning still,<LB>And sighed for my old companions,<LB>Scattered through every zone,<LB>Who sailed in the Margaret with me<LB>But seven short years agone.<LB>Yes, seven brief summers only<LB>Have rolled past since that day;<LB>'Twas a balmy, soft June evening<LB>When we anchored in the bay.<LB>Of the sixteen buoyant spirits<LB>Enrolled in our companie,<LB>Twelve lie the green sod under,<LB>And three are lost for aye.<LB>The first at my feet was lying,<LB>Far from his native home;<LB>I had watched by his bedside dying,<LB>Slain by the curse of rum.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>384</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<LB>In the dark and rocky can&tilde;on,<LB>Where the Fresno's waters flow,<LB>The mangled corpse of the second<LB>Was buried long ago.<LB>Three entered the wild Sierra<LB>To search for the golden ore,<LB>But back from their quest of lucre<LB>To our camp they came no more.<LB>We sought them long and vainly,<LB>But what their sad fate had been<LB>We never could tell, but only<LB>They never again were seen.<LB>On the hills of the Mariposa,<LB>Where the dead of '50 sleep,<LB>On the bank-side by the ravine,<LB>Where its sluggish waters creep,<LB>Two mounds, with long grass tangled--<LB>There moldering, side by side,<LB>Are the gambler and his victim,<LB>The unshriven suicide.<LB>In the green vale of the Nuuanu,<LB>On the fair isle of Oahu,<LB>Consumption demanded the youngest,<LB>Most gallant, most gentle, most true.<LB>The graveyard of Yerba Buena<LB>Claimeth another; alone,<LB>Far from his friends and his kindred,<LB>Stands his monument stone.<LB>One died in the Independence,<LB>Another on Chagres' shore;<LB>One launched on the Pacific<LB>His bark, and returned no more.<LB>"Mourn not the dead!" the living yet--<LB>Alas! there are but four<LB>Who sailed on the good brig Margaret--<LB>Better their doom deplore.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>385</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<LB>In the valleys of Nukahiva,<LB>Gem of the Southern Sea,<LB>The soul of our band, if living,<LB>Hath fixed his destiny.<LB>Gladly he went into exile,<LB>Self-banished from his kind;<LB>The stern world's wrong and oppression<LB>Made wreck of his noble mind.<LB>From the dungeons of San Quentin<LB>Ascendeth for evermore<LB>The wail of a convict, sighing<LB>For the days that are past and o'er.<LB>His life to the law was forfeit,<LB>For the blood his hand had shed,<LB>But a cruel mercy spared him,<LB>To be 'mongst the living dead.<LB>The last and saddest of any,<LB>A sister she was to us all,<LB>In the bloom of her girlish beauty,<LB>Was lured by a fiend to her fall;<LB>On the banks of the Sacramento,<LB>She leadeth a life of shame;<LB>For her there is no redemption--<LB>Forgotten be ever her name.<LB>The gifted and brave had perished,<LB>The beautiful and the young;<LB>All trace of their footsteps vanished<LB>The paths of men from among;<LB>While I, as the sole survivor,<LB>Was left to make my moan;<LB>On the shores of the broad Pacific<LB>I was standing all alone.<LB></HI>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>386</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>DEFECTIVE ADMINISTRATION OF CRIMINAL LAW IN CALIFORNIA--ILLUSTRATIONS-- PAY THE LAST OF MY OLD DEBTS. For some eight or ten years after the organization of our State government, the administration of the criminal laws was exceedingly defective and inefficient.  This arose mainly from the following causes:  1.  Defective laws and imperfect organization of the Courts; 2.  The incompetency of the district attorneys, who were generally young men without an adequate knowledge of the law; 3.  The want of secure county prisons, there being no penitentiary during most of that time; 4.  The great expense of keeping prisoners and convicts in the county jails; 5.  The difficulty of enforcing the attendance ofwitnesses; 6.  The difficulty of securing good jurymen, there being so large a proportion of reckless, sour, disappointed, and unprincipled men then in the country; 7.  The unsettled state of our land-titles, which first induced so many men to squat upon the lands of the grantees of Spain and Mexico, and then to steal their cattle to live upon.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As illustrative, I will mention the following cases, omitting names for obvious reasons:</P>
055.sgm:<P>A middle-aged native Californian, belonging to one of the richest and most respectable old families of the country, was the owner of an extensive and fertile rancho, bordering upon the navigable waters of the State.  He owned a large herd of California cattle, running on his place.  Near the rancho there was a small village, between which and San Francisco there was regular communication by a small steamer.  Numbers of persons soon engaged in stealing his calves, having the carcasses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>387</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>His case excited great sympathy in the neighborhood, and, about the time it was coming on for trial, one of the leading men of the vicinity came to engage me to defend the prisoner.  I asked this person whether the prisoner was guilty.  With a sorrowful expression of face he said he thought he was, as he had confessed it.  This person then went into a long history of the prisoner.  He said it was one of the saddest cases he had ever known; that the prisoner had heretofore borne a most excellent character--had undoubtedly been honest all his life up to this time--had a most estimable wife and several most amiable daughters, one or two of whom were grown; that respectable young men were visiting his family; that the prisoner's relatives were excellent people; and that he and his innocent family would be ruined should he be convicted.  After talking in this strain for about an hour, my informant seemed to have forgotten his admission made in the beginning of his statement, and closed by saying with great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>388</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On the day of trial the prisoner came into court handsomely dressed in broadcloth, and was a fine-looking man.  He appeared as little like a thief as any prisoner I have ever seen in court.  The District Attorney, being young and inexperienced, relied solely upon the prisoner's confession for a conviction, and had neglected to subp&oelig;na the witnesses to the other facts.  This testimony, most likely, would have been sufficient without the confession.  The result was, that the prisoner's attorney objected to the confession, on the ground that it was not voluntary, but made under the influence of hope or fear.  The court, upon investigation, sustained the objection, the confession was not permitted to go before the jury, and, there being no testimony against the prisoner, he was at once acquitted.  This trial took place in 1851.  I have lately learned that this person has conducted himself as an honest man and a good citizen ever since that time.  There can be no reasonable doubt of the fact that he had been led to commit one theft under the peculiar circumstances mentioned, and that this has been the only criminal act of his life.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The other case was related to me by the lawyer who successfully defended the prisoner, and the facts are unquestionably true.  The trial occurred about 1852.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The prisoner was a man of education, about thirty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>389</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>His case was brought before the grand jury, and he was indicted for grand larceny in stealing this cow.  Upon the trial all the facts were fully proven.  The theory of the defense was, that the prisoner intended to shoot a dangerous bull; that the cow stood almost in a line between him and the bull, and that he accidentally hit the cow.  While the prisoner's counsel was arguing the case before the trial-jury, the District Attorney interrupted him, and asked him how he reconciled the fact that the prisoner cut the cow's throat with the theory of accidental shooting?  Without a moment's hesitation the counsel for the prisoner replied:  "That is easily answered.  When the prisoner saw that he had accidentally killed the cow, he knew it was best for all parties concerned to bleed the animal properly, so that the carcass would be good beef, and thus make the loss as small as possible."  When the Judge came to charge the jury, the counsel for the prisoner offered an instruction directing the jury to find the prisoner not guilty, as the facts proven showed that the offense charged in the indictment had not been committed.  He took the ground that, to constitute the crime of larceny as charged, there must be <HI REND="italics">both</HI>
055.sgm: a taking and carrying away of the property described in the indictment, with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>390</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>This man continued to reside in the same vicinity during the remainder of his life.  Six or eight years after the trial the county was divided by act of the Legislature, and a new county organized, which included this man's residence, and which is one of the richest counties in the State.  Twelve or fifteen years after his acquittal he was elected County Judge of this county.</P>
055.sgm:<P>While he held this office, the lawyer who had successfully defended him went to the county seat to attend to some professional business, and while there walked into the court-house, and found the Judge just about to pass sentence upon a prisoner who had been indicted, tried, and convicted in his court for grand larceny.  As the scene was novel and most interesting, the lawyer took a seat and listened to the sentence pronounced by his Honor.  The Judge went on, in a solemn and eloquent manner, to depict at length the atrocity of the crime of grand larceny, and sentenced the prisoner to a long term in the penitentiary.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It was the extremely defective administration of criminal justice in California for some years that led to the organization of so many vigilance committees, and filled the courts of Judge Lynch with so many cases.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the early portion of 1852 I finally succeeded in paying the last dollar of my old debts.  The total sum paid amounted to twenty-eight thousand seven hundred and forty dollars.  I was henceforward a free man.  I had been engaged so long in paying old debts that it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>391</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>GREAT FIRE IN SACRAMENTO CITY--ASSIST IN REBUILDING THE CITY--RANCHO OF SAMUEL NORRIS--COURSING THE JACK-RABBIT. On the evening of November 2, 1852, the great fire occurred at Sacramento City, which swept off two thirds of the town.  Improvements that cost me about twenty-five thousand dollars were consumed in half an hour.  When I arrived in the city on the 5th, the business portion of the place, with the exception of here and there a solitary brick house, was one waste of dark desolation.  The streets could scarcely be distinguished from the blocks.  Notwithstanding this great and severe loss, that indomitable people were not at all discouraged or unhappy.  They even seemed inspirited.  You would meet with no downcast looks.  No people that I ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>392</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:met can compare with those of Sacramento City in patience, energy, and unconquerable courage.  In San Francisco they had two large and terrible fires in 1851, but they had no floods.  In Sacramento City they had a succession of both fires and floods; and yet, at this date, Sacramento is the most prosperous city in the State.  <HI REND="italics">All honor to that noble people</HI>
055.sgm:<P>There have been four overflows of Sacramento City.  The first occurred in the winter of 1849-'50, the second in March, 1852, the third in the winter of 1852-'53, and the fourth and last in the winter of 1861-'62.  The second passed away so soon as to inflict but little injury comparatively, but the others were much longer in duration and far more serious in their effects.  Nothing could be done during the floods, nor for about two months after the waters subsided.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I moved to Sacramento City early in December, 1852, to assist in rebuilding it.  A proposition was made by the people of Grass Valley to construct a plank-road from that place either to Marysville or Sacramento.  The distance to Marysville is about half of that to Sacramento City.  The people of Grass Valley would be governed in their choice of a terminus of the road by the amount contributed by each of the two competing cities.  The road to Marysville would cost less, but that to Sacramento would terminate at the better point.  A large public meeting was held at Grass Valley in the month of February, 1853, and delegates were present from Sacramento and Marysville to represent the people of those cities.  At the meeting they out-talked and out-voted us, and we returned rather cast down; but we quietly laid it up in our inmost hearts to rely solely upon ourselves, and rebuild <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>393</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>While at Sacramento City, in the fall of 1853 and the succeeding winter, I was several times at the rancho of Samuel Norris.  This place is about six miles from the city, and lies upon the north bank of the American River.  As all our work in rebuilding the city had been successfully finished, and the place put in the best condition, I had a little time and inclination for some amusement.  Norris had four well-trained dogs.  The first was an old dog he called "Old Bull," a cross between the cur and bull-dog.  The others were greyhounds.  The first of these was about five years old; the other two, about two years old, were brother and sister.  The slut was jet-black in color, and was one of the most beautiful animals I ever saw.  She was a little fleeter than her brother, and the fleetest of the pack.  Nothing could exceed the ease and grace of her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>394</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>One evening Norris told me how he had exterminated the numerous coyotes in his vicinity.  He said that, mounted on a good horse, he would go out with his four dogs, and when the greyhounds came in sight of a coyote, in the prairie or in open woods, they immediately gave chase.  When they had overtaken the wolf, the foremost hound would run full tilt against him and knock him over; and, if the wolf attempted to run again, the hound would overthrow him the second time.  The coyote soon found that there was no chance to escape by flight, and would then stand and snarl, and thus keep the hounds at bay.  They would circle around him, but never attack him with their teeth until Old Bull came up.  In the mean time that brave old dog was advancing at a slow and steady pace, and when he arrived he made not the slightest stop, but laid hold of the poor wolf despite his quick, sharp, and terrible snaps; then the hounds pitched in, and the defenseless coyote had not the slightest chance for his life, but was strung out full length and speedily dispatched.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Next morning, after an early breakfast, mounted on fleet but gentle horses, Norris and myself set out to run down the large jack-rabbits then plentiful in that vicinity.  One of these rabbits will weigh as much as two or three of the cotton-tail rabbits of the Western States; and, although their gait in running seems to be very awkward, they are so swift that it requires the fleetest greyhound to catch them.  Indeed it is very doubtful whether any single greyhound could catch one of these rabbits, as the animal would dodge the dog, and thus widen the distance between them.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>Norris had a smooth, open, and gently undulating stubble-field, about a mile long and three fourths of a mile wide.  Although the stubble had been so closely pastured that we could apparently see an animal of that size at the distance of fifty yards, yet the rabbit would fold his long ears to his body, and then lie so close to the ground (which he much resembled in color) that we never in a single instance could see him until he started to run, although often within eight or ten yards of him.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The old greyhound, though about as fleet as the rabbit, was not so fast as either of the other hounds, but he was active, vigilant, and tough, and always started the game.  He would run hither and thither, searching in every place, while the two young hounds trotted along at their ease twenty feet or so behind him, never looking for the rabbit, but keeping their attention fixed on the old hound.  The first thing we would know, up would start the rabbit not more than eight or ten feet ahead of the old hound, and then the race began, the rabbit and the hounds running at the top of their speed.  It was a most exciting chase.  Gradually the slut would overtake the other hounds, and we could see her gain upon them inch by inch until she passed them, and then as gradually gain upon the rabbit.  When she approached within about four feet of the rabbit, her brother being about a length behind her, the animal would suddenly turn at right angles to the left or right, and the two foremost hounds would run over a little before they could stop, and, by the time they could turn and start again, the rabbit would be fifteen or twenty feet ahead.  But the old hound was on the watch, and, the moment he saw the rabbit double, he would turn and cut across, so as to run to a point that would be about as close to the rabbit as he was at the start.  In the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The hounds would catch the first rabbit in running half a mile, and the second one in running a mile, and the third would outrun them and make his escape.  I observed that, in running down an incline, the hounds would run comparatively faster and the rabbit more slowly; but, in going up an incline, the rabbit would run correspondingly faster.  When the speed of two animals is the same on level ground, the larger one will run faster than the smaller in descending an incline, but more slowly in ascending.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In these races, the only thing that Old Bull did was to come up as soon as he could after the death, and, like the lion in the fable, appropriate all the game to himself.  The hounds never objected, as they knew his power and courage too well to contest his pretensions.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Norris said he had seen the speed of his greyhounds conclusively tested with that of the antelope.  On one occasion he was out with his horse and dogs, when he saw a band of some forty antelopes grazing in open woods.  He quietly approached as near as he could, and, when the antelopes started to run, he and the hounds pursued them at full speed.  The attention of the fleeing animals seemed to have been fixed on him, and they measured their pace so as to keep about a hundred yards ahead.  In this way the two fleetest hounds were permitted to approach within about twenty yards of the hindmost antelopes, the foremost ones being about forty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE OF 1856--MY FIRST VOYAGE AT SEA--INCIDENTS. In the month of March, 1854, I returned to my home in Santa Clara County.  At that time I had a large interest in the town of Alviso, situated at the southern extremity of the Bay of San Francisco, where I had erected a large frame dwelling-house in 1850.  This building was constructed of the best eastern pine lumber, except the frame, was two stories high, was twenty-nine by forty-eight feet, and contained ten or twelve rooms.  I employed the remainder of 1854 in removing this house from Alviso to San Jose&acute;, about nine miles distant.  To remove it, we took it all apart, piece by piece, without injuring any of the materials, except the shingles, and put it together again, each plank in its proper place.  I worked hard at it myself, as did my two sons, John and Armstead, then about grown.  I employed Stincen, the carpenter of Sacramento, whose name has already been mentioned in connection with Tom the quack.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>My first residence in San Jose&acute; cost me six thousand dollars, and it was afterward sold for one thousand.  My second residence cost me ten thousand, and afterward sold for two thousand.  These instances will indicate the shrinkage in value of real estate in San Jose&acute;.  It is but justice to say that the prices mentioned would not at present be a fair criterion of the value of real estate in that city, which would rule neither so high nor so low as the rates mentioned.</P>
055.sgm:<P>During the years 1855 and 1856 I had no business employment, having quit the practice of my profession early in 1854, and devoted my time to reading.  In the early part of August, 1856, I was attacked for the first time with neuralgia; and from that date until May, 1861, I had at intervals a succession of attacks, so that I was sick two thirds of the time during that period.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In 1856 the Vigilance Committee of San Francisco was in full and successful operation.  I opposed this organization on the ground of principle, as I considered it incipient rebellion and a fatal precedent.  It is very true that the good people of San Francisco had great reason to be dissatisfied with the administration of criminal justice.  So many of the then residents of the city considered themselves but sojourners; while they, and many who regarded themselves as permanent settlers, were so eager in the pursuit of wealth that they could not be induced to serve on juries, that that duty thus devolved upon those unworthy of the trust.  The consequence was that the guilty escaped, and crime continued unrestrained, until the situation became almost intolerable. I made two most vigorous speeches against the Committee.  These were my last speeches.  It is not my purpose to go fully into that exciting event, as it is a matter of history accessible to all.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>In August and September, 1856, I made my first sea-voyage. My son-in-law, C. T. Ryland, and myself left San Francisco, on the 20th of August, on board the steamship John L. Stephens, for Panama.  Supposing myself to be very susceptible to sea-sickness, I dreaded a voyage, thinking I should suffer severely.  I had been suffering from a slight attack of neuralgia for some days, and I remembered the medical maxim that the human system will not generally tolerate more than one disease at the same time, and that the principal one will banish all the others.  When the ship had passed the heads and was at sea, I became sea-sick, and I never once thought of the neuralgia for some days.  But, as soon as I had entirely recovered from the sea-sickness, the neuralgia came limping back by slow degrees.  My own experience therefore proved the truth of that medical maxim.  On my return from New York, on board the steamship bound to Aspinwall, I became acquainted with a most intelligent gentleman who was far gone with consumption, and was on his way to South America in the hope that the change might restore him to health.  While most of the passengers were sea-sick, he was not at all affected.  This fact, he sorrowfully told me, he regarded as an indication of approaching death.  From the best estimate I can make, after having made three trips between San Francisco and New York by sea, about seven per cent. of the passengers escape sea-sickness entirely, three per cent. are sick the entire voyage, and ninety per cent. are sick from one to five days.</P>
055.sgm:<P>At Aspinwall we went on board the steamship George Law, bound for New York.  We came by Havana, but the yellow fever was then prevailing there to such an extent that our commander, Captain Herndon, deemed it best not to enter the harbor, but to take in a supply <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The moon set that night about 10 P. M., and we had all been asleep some hours when, about three o'clock A. M., I was awakened by Ryland's entering the cabin door.  He was more wakeful than we were, had heard some stir on deck, had quietly left his berth, gone above, learned the cause, and returned.  I at once asked him what was the matter.  He solemnly replied, "We are aground."  The ship had run in too close to the shore, and had reached a position upon a coral reef, on the eastern coast of Florida, from which she could not then retreat.</P>
055.sgm:<P>This was about the 9th of September, and the equinoctial storm was just before us.  I at once comprehended the terrible situation.  We had on board about one thousand passengers.  I hastily dressed myself, went on deck, and took a calm survey; and I thought that I could discern through the darkness the dim outlines of a low bushy shore to our left.  The ship was beating upon the reef.  When a large wave rolled under her she rose, and when it receded she came down upon the rocky bottom with a melancholy thump.  The human ear never heard a sound more terrible than that made by a great ship thumping upon a rock.  It is a dead, dull sound, ominous of death.  The ship struck at about full tide, and when the tide went down she was as still as a house on shore.</P>
055.sgm:<P>After remaining on deck a short time, I went below, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>The darkness was so great that nothing could be done until daylight.  When day returned, the shore was in plain view about five miles distant.  The water was so shallow and so clear that we could see the bottom of the ocean as plainly as one can see the carpet on the floor.  At the distance of some two miles to our right we could see the deep, blue water, while around the ship the water was apparently green, owing to its being so shallow.  The day was calm and beautiful.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Captain Herndon ordered a large portion of the coal to be thrown overboard, and the passengers went to work with a will to lighten the ship.  There were among our passengers two experienced navigators, who had before this been engaged in commanding whaling-vessels, and were brave, hardy, and skillful seamen.  They gave their utmost assistance.  Captain Herndon was going all the time.  I did not see him stop to eat or drink.  No man could possibly have done more.  The two sea-captains put on cheerful faces, went among the lady passengers, and assured them there was no danger; but they would tell me confidentially that our peril was great, as we were at the mercy of the first gale, and that the calm, beautiful weather was but the prelude to the dread equinoctial storm.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>Toward noon several wreckers came in sight, and soon sailed all around and close to us.  Soon afterward a large Spanish clipper-ship hove in sight, and, seeing our signals of distress, came as near to us as it was safe for her to do.  Captain Herndon went out in a small row-boat to meet her, and made arrangements with her master to take on board a portion of our passengers.  When he returned he announced to the passengers that a certain number could go aboard the clipper, and took down the names of those who were willing to go.  Ryland and I decided to go.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the mean time large quantities of coal had been thrown into the sea, a heavy anchor attached to an immense hawser had been thrown forward some distance, and the men were hauling upon it with all the force they could apply to the capstan.  The tide had risen to its full height, the wheels of the ship were put in motion, and, just as we, with our carpet-bags in our hands, were about to descend into the small boats to go to the clipper, the steamship glided off the reef as easily as the sea-bird rises from the summit of the wave.  As already stated, the ship had run in too close to the shore, and, when its dim outlines had been discovered by the man on the watch, her wheels were reversed; but, in the attempt to regain the deep water, she ran upon a bump in the reef, and stuck fast.  The water gradually deepened from the shore to the blue water, as we could readily perceive from the difference in its apparent color.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As we slowly passed toward the anchor, Captain Herndon ordered the hawser to be cut, which was promptly done by one of the sailors.  It was about three o'clock in the afternoon of that beautiful day, and all the passengers were on deck.  Many efforts of the same kind had been previously made to haul off the ship, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Soon after the shouts had ceased, I met Captain Herndon on deck, when he threw his arms around my neck, wept, and said, "Governor, my heart was almost broken."  I remember him with feelings of the most tender regard.  He was a noble man, and an honor to his race.  One year after that time, while still in command of the same steamship (though her name had been changed to that of the Central America), his vessel went down at sea in an equinoctial storm off Cape Hatteras, and he and most of his passengers perished.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The ship was so little injured that in due time we arrived safely in the port of New York.  Next morning I read in the daily papers an account of the voyage and arrival of the George Law, but not one word was said about our having been aground upon a coral reef on the coast of Florida.</P>
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055.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>APPOINTED A JUSTICE OF THE SUPREME COURT--PAINFUL INCIDENT--ANTICIPATED OUR CIVIL WAR--MY VIEWS UPON THAT SUBJECT. FROM New York I went West as far as Platte County, Missouri, visited the scenes and friends of my early days, and returned to California about the 2d day of December.  I was appointed a Justice of the Supreme Court of California by Governor J. Neely Johnson, and my commission bears date January 13, 1857.  This position I held until my term expired early in October, 1858.</P>
055.sgm:<P>While occupying a seat on the Supreme Bench, a remarkable circumstance occurred, which I felt more intensely than I can describe.  My brother, Glen O. Burnett (two years younger than myself), then resided in Oregon.  He had been an invalid for two or three years, and I expected to hear of his death.  One day in 1857 an old acquaintance of both of us came to me in Sacramento City, and informed me that he had just received a letter from his father-in-law, in which it was stated that my brother died the day previous to the date of the letter.  As the writer lived in Oregon, only about twelve miles from my brother, I had not the slightest doubt of the fact.  About three months had passed, and I was sure my brother was dead, when, one evening, after I had closed my judicial labors for the day, and while I was descending the outside iron stairs that led from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>I spent the month of December, 1859, and the month of January, and a small portion of February, 1860, in the city of New York.  During that time I attentively read all the most important Congressional debates.  Early in March, 1860, I returned to California, and told my friends that there would be civil war in case the Republican candidate should be elected President of the United States.  No one agreed with me in this opinion.  I thought that I saw, form the tone, temper, and matter of the speeches of the Southern members and Senators, that they had generally determined upon war in the contingency mentioned.  It required only about one fourth of the population of the United States to produce civil war.  As in such a contest there can practically exist only one party in the rebellious division, it required only a decisive majority of the Southern people to bring on the war.  The minority would have not only to submit, but to aid and assist.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I was born and reared in the slave section of the United States, and most of my relatives resided there.  I knew well the sincerity and courage of the Southern people; but it was a question of principle, and not of feeling.  The unity and perpetuity of this great nation were a cardinal object with me.  I could not fight against the grand old flag.  If an intelligent stranger from another planet were to visit this earth, and were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:the flags of all the nations of this world placed before him, he would unhesitatingly select the Stars and Stripes as the most brilliant and magnificent of them all.  No one can ever look upon that flag and forget it.  Besides, it is the symbol of the first great nation that ever established political and religious liberty in its fullness and perfection.  Whatever defects may exist in our theory of government can be corrected, even at the expense of revolution; <HI REND="italics">but the unity and integrity of the nation can never be destroyed</HI>
055.sgm:.  The day of weak, defenseless States has passed away for ever.  Only great governments can succeed, now or hereafter.  If our country should err for a time, and commit temporary injustice, we must trust her still, and patiently and lovingly wait for her returning sense of justice, as a dutiful son would for that of his father or mother.  He who trusts the <HI REND="italics">ultimate</HI>
055.sgm:<P>During the war I was called upon publicly to express my opinion in regard to it.  My answer was published at the time, but, as usual with me, I preserved no copy.  As already stated, I published a pamphlet of more than one hundred printed pages, in which I gave my views in full.  I voted for Abraham Lincoln for his second term.</P>
055.sgm:<P>DETERMINE TO ENGAGE IN BANKING--ELECTED PRESIDENT OF THE PACIFIC ACCUMULATION LOAN COMPANY--THE INSTITUTION PUT IN PRACTICAL OPERATION--DIFFICULTIES IN OUR WAY--CHANGE THE NAME TO "PACIFIC BANK." When I had finished my work, "The Path which led a Protestant Lawyer to the Catholic Church," which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>But what business to engage in was the question.  I had always been unsuccessful in mercantile pursuits, and was determined never to engage in them again.  I was too old to go back to the farm.  In considering the matter fully, it occurred to me that banking would suit me better than any other occupation.  It was an honest business, in which the temptation to do wrong was really less than in almost any other secular pursuit.  We had in California a gold currency, and that which we lent was of full quantity, of pure quality, and of fixed value.  All we asked of our debtors was to return to us the same amount of gold coin they had borrowed, with the addition of the interest, which was at the lowest market rates.  We did not lend money (like some individual money-lenders) with the view of ultimately becoming the owners of the mortgaged property, as no bank would wish to own real estate, except its banking-house.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Furthermore, it was not only an honest business, but one very useful to all parties concerned.  While the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Therefore, after calm and full deliberation, I came to the fixed conclusion that I would go into the business of banking when a fair opportunity should offer. I was then, as now, fully aware of the prejudices existing in the minds of many persons against the business.  But I am one of those independent men who rely upon their own judgment in regard to their own business.  I do not follow the opinions of others, unless they agree with my own.  My business is <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
055.sgm:<P>I had not capital enough to engage in the business alone, and I could find no one desirous of going into it, who could put up the same amount that I could.  Being determined not to endanger the competency I had already acquired, so far as I could reasonably avoid it, I had to bide my time.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1863 I was consulted by some of the officers of the "Pacific Accumulation Loan Company" in regard to the framing of its by-laws, and gave my views promptly.  I was then residing in San Jose&acute;.  This institution had been incorporated early in February, 1863, with a capital stock of five millions of dollars, divided into fifty thousand shares of the par value of one hundred dollars each, and its principal place of business was in the city of San Francisco.  On the 3d of June, 1863, I was notified by the Secretary that I had been chosen President, to fill the vacancy occasioned by the resignation of Mr. Samuel Brannan, and came at once to San Francisco.  I found several defects in the charter and by-laws, some of which I did not approve.  First, I did not like the name.  Second, the capital was too large.  Third, the by-laws provided that the Board of Directors could only demand payments upon the stock subscribed for in monthly installments, not exceeding two per cent.  The first thing was to obtain subscriptions for the capital stock, and then it would require four years and two months to call in the amount subscribed.  I saw before me the work of a lifetime; yet, as I had a basis to stand upon, I deliberately determined to undertake the enterprise of ultimately establishing the soundest and most reliable bank in the city.  I had no special knowledge of the business, as I had never been trained in this most difficult of all secular pursuits.  Circumstances had thrown me into different kinds of business during my varied experience, but I had made it a general rule not to engage in more than one business at the same time, and to devote my whole attention for the time being to the work I had in hand, and to learn it as early as possible.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Books of subscription for the capital stock of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Upon my return to the city, I was informed that Mr. Brannan had positively declared that the enterprise <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
055.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">should</HI>
055.sgm:<P>It is but simple justice to Samuel Brannan to state that he is the father of the bank.  Without his determined action, it would never have gone into successful operation.  He was the first man in California, so far as I am informed, that spoke out in public against the introduction of slavery into this country.  With all his faults, he has many noble qualities, and has done much for California.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When we opened the bank, on the 8th of October, 1863, we had less than twenty thousand dollars capital paid in.  We had about seven hundred thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>411</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>About the end of the year 1863 I found to my surprise that all the directors except myself were in favor of paying a dividend early in 1864.  I wished to accumulate a surplus fund, but they outvoted me, and for the time I was compelled to submit.  In 1864 we paid dividends upon the capital paid in, at the rate of two per cent. a month.  In 1865 they were reduced to one and a half and one and a quarter, and in 1866 to one and one fifteenth per cent. a month.  Dividends were then paid semiannually, on the first days of January and July.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As I had foreseen, in the summer and fall of 1866 the bank sustained losses to such an extent as to compel the suspension of dividends for fifteen months.  When we were about to resume, I introduced a resolution that the bank would pay monthly dividends at the rate of ten per cent. per annum, until the further order of the Board.  I was the only one who voted for this resolution.  The dividends were put at one per cent. a month, payable monthly.  In the summer of 1871 the bank again sustained losses which compelled a second suspension of dividends.  The last monthly dividend was paid September 1, 1871.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In the mean time we had amended the by-laws in several respects, and, by authority of a special act of the State Legislature, we changed the name of the institution to "Pacific Bank," its present corporate title.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>After the second suspension of dividends, September 1, 1871, and before we could resume, the majority of the stock fell into the hands of sound, safe, conservative men, who understood banking, and who agreed with me not to resume the payment of dividends until January, 1877.  In the mean time we accumulated, in the space of five years and four months, a surplus fund of more than half a million dollars.  Our capital of one million is now full-paid, and we have a handsome surplus.</P>
055.sgm:<P>WILD BANKS--SPECULATIVE CHARACTER OF OUR PEOPLE--INCIDENT. I think I can safely say that no sound bank was ever established under greater difficulties than the Pacific.  I am sure that I was never engaged in any business enterprise that required so much thought, judgment, labor, firmness, and perseverance.  We had not only to overcome the great difficulties in our charter and by-laws, and the serious errors of our governing stockholders, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>About two years after our little bank opened its doors for business, one of the leading capitalists of San Francisco, and one of the original incorporators who refused to subscribe for any of the stock, upon hearing some one speak of the Pacific Accumulation Loan Company, asked, "Is that thing going yet?"  About 1873 I met an officer of one of the large banks in the city, then in the full tide of success (as was generally supposed), who twittingly remarked to me, "Governor, the signs upon your bank windows are quite pretentious.  They completely take us down."  I made no reply.  There was ample opportunity for "patience to have her perfect work."</P>
055.sgm:<P>Before the suspension of the largest banks in this city, August 26, 1875, the market value of our stock was less than that of any respectable bank in the city; but when that event occurred, and the wild banks went down to the level of their intrinsic demerits, our stock went up to the head of the list, except that of one other bank.  The stock of this <HI REND="italics">void</HI>
055.sgm:<P>But we had not only to overcome these great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P>Speculation first ran wild in real estate, then in water-ditches, and for the last fifteen years in mining stocks.  In no city on earth is it so difficult to ascertain the true financial condition of men as in San Francisco.  With all due care, the average losses of a bank in this city, taking a series of ten years together, will run from two to four per cent. per annum upon the amount loaned.  Nothing but the current high rate of interest enabled us to make a decent profit.</P>
055.sgm:<P>All must concede that mining is one of the leading interests of this coast, and that permanent investments in mines are a legitimate business, though exposed to more risks than most other avocations.  The investor in a mine has two risks to encounter: first, the character of the mine itself; second, the character of its management, which is the greater risk of the two.  If the mine be poor, it can not be made to pay even by the best management.  If it be rich, those who practically control its management are very apt to depreciate the market value of the stock, by working for a time the poor ores, or by other devices, and thus compel the board of directors to levy and collect a series of assessments.  This process will be continued until the weaker stockholders are forced to sell their stock; and the unprincipled managers, through their agents, buy it in, having the certificates issued in the name of some person as trustee.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>But investing in the legitimate business of mining is one thing, and speculating in mining stocks is another and a very different thing.  The first is useful and honest, because it develops and adds to the wealth of the country, while the second does not develop or add to its wealth or morals in any form whatever.  All the necessaries and comforts of life are the products of labor and skill honestly applied.  But the speculator and gambler are leeches upon society, and the worst of all speculators is the speculator in mining stocks.  It is the most deplorably demoralizing of all occupations dignified by the name of business.  It speedily corrupts crowds of people, and keeps them idle ever afterward; because the man who has once experienced the wild excitement and tasted the insane luxury of a successful speculation in mining stocks is, as a general rule, for ever totally unfitted for any useful occupation.  What sound business man would ever employ as a clerk a young man who had been once successful in mining-stock speculations?  What is such a being fit for during the remainder of his life?  If unsuccessful in his first effort, he is peculiarly fortunate, for then he may be saved from that worse than gambling pursuit.  But it is just about as difficult to cure the once successful speculator as to reform the confirmed drunkard.</P>
055.sgm:<P>For one or two years before the late rise in the market value of mining stocks, crowds of men in the prime of life could be seen standing on the streets idle.  Their listless faces and seedy, dilapidated appearance indicated extreme laziness and destitution.  But since the rise they appear jubilant.  They are now seen on the streets with clean-shaven faces, neatly combed hair, new clothes, new hats, and new boots nicely polished.  They seem as much revived as withered grass after a plenteous fall of rain.</P>
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055.sgm:<P>It is well known to all intelligent men, who have been in business in this city for any considerable time, that mining speculators will readily sacrifice their best friends, <HI REND="italics">because they can</HI>
055.sgm:<P>A man who had once been in the habit of lending on mining stocks as collateral told me an incident within his own knowledge.  He lent a man a sum of money, and took from the borrower what is called an "ironclad note," secured by the pledge of a certain number of shares of a certain mining company.  The note was payable one day after date, and contained a clause stipulating that the borrower should keep up the margin on the stock.  If it should depreciate in its market value, the borrower was to put up more stock, or reduce the debt by a proportionate payment in money.  In this case the stock was declining in value, and the lender was continually calling upon the borrower to keep good the margin.  This the lender did several times, and the margin was made good by the borrower putting up more stock.  The lender urged the speculator to sell, but he refused, insisting that the depression was only temporary.  But the stock still continued to decline, and the lender as continually called for more stock, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>417</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The borrower at last had no more stock to put up, and no money to reduce the debt.  He concluded to go to a large stock-speculator, and ask <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
055.sgm:<P>MERCHANTS AND OTHER BUSINESS MEN OFTEN SECRETLY ENGAGE IN STOCK-SPECULATIONS--ILLUSTRATIVE CASES OF SPECULATION--FAILURES SOMETIMES FALSELY ATTRIBUTED TO SPECULATION IN MINING STOCKS. Men engaged in mercantile and other kinds of business in this city are often secretly concerned in speculating in mining stocks.  If the firm has a temporary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>418</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:surplus of money, one of the younger partners is very apt to propose to invest that surplus, and no more, in mining stocks.  Each speculator pays himself the vain compliment to think that, by watching the market carefully, <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
055.sgm: can know when to buy and sell or that <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
055.sgm:<P>On the contrary, if a firm be embarrassed pecuniarily, then the partners are tempted to engage in speculations in mining stocks as a measure of relief.  If successful (as in some <HI REND="italics">rare</HI>
055.sgm:<P>These men fraudulently hold themselves out to the business world as <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
055.sgm: engaged in regular and useful business.  Their stock operations are profoundly secret.  The certificates of stock are adroitly put in the name of some man as trustee, and endorsed by him in blank on the back, and thus pass from hand to hand like a note endorsed in blank or a bond payable to bearer.  You may examine the books of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
055.sgm: the numerous companies in this city, and you will never find any stock standing in the names of these men.  Not a share.  The first thing known is the failure of the house.  Men above  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>419</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Another difficulty in the way of commercial banking in this city was the absence of good collaterals.  Very few of our business men had invested in United States bonds, because the rate of interest was too low, and our State bonds had been mostly absorbed by the State School Fund, while our best county bonds had gone to the East and to Europe. The only abundant collaterals were mining stocks, and these were not reliable, with all the "iron-clad" notes that could be taken.  We were, therefore, compelled to lend on names, and to a large extent upon single names.  Hence the great losses sustained, and the very moderate net profits realized.  Besides, the amount of bank deposits in San Francisco is much less in proportion to bank capital than in other commercial cities.</P>
055.sgm:<P>In Illustration, I will mention a few cases.</P>
055.sgm:<P>A millionaire came from the East to spend the winter in California, and brought letters of introduction to me.  We had many conversations about business, and I urged him not to touch mining stocks.  But in a month or two the yellow fever of speculation obtained the mastery over him.  He was about sixty years of age, and his annual income was about one hundred thousand dollars.  He said to me at last that he had concluded to risk fifty thousand dollars in mining stocks, as he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>420</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>One of our leading capitalists informed me that on one occasion he determined to engage in speculation in mining stocks.  He said his practice was to purchase when they were highest, for fear they would go higher, and to sell when they were lowest, for fear they would go lower.  He soon found that he had sustained losses to the amount of more than eight thousand dollars.  He also said that the most amusing feature in his case was the fact that his losses occurred while he was dealing in the stock of a mine of which he was president.  His experience proved that no man can see beyond the point of the pick.</P>
055.sgm:<P>A gentleman of my acquaintance told me that one evening in 1878 he was riding in a street-car in this city, and that there sat opposite to him a neatly but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>421</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:not extravagantly dressed married lady, some twenty-five years old.  She was evidently a woman of education.  Soon a gentleman, who appeared to be an acquaintance of herself and husband, entered the car, and took a seat beside her.  She was a loud, fluent talker, and at once commenced, and soon explained to him their present as compared with their former condition.  She said they had been rich, but had lost all in mining stocks; that they had given up their fine residence, splendid furniture, and magnificent horses and carriage; that they had dismissed their numerous servants, and had taken a small, neat, but comfortable cottage; that she rose early and prepared breakfast, then went out and taught a class in music, returned and cooked dinner and supper; and, in fact, that she did all her house-work herself, and never was so busy or more healthy.  At the end of her narrative she paused for a moment, and then exclaimed, with increased emphasis, " <HI REND="italics">But we had a grand time while it lasted</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The same gentleman informed me that he knew a merchant in one of the interior cities of California who was a partner in a most respectable mercantile firm, which for years had done a safe, prosperous, and honorable business.  This man was considered an exemplary member of society in his city, but he became tired of his position, sold out his interest in an excellent business, and went into speculations in mining stocks.  My informant said he had not seen this man for several years, when he met him in the streets of San Francisco in 1878, and inquired how he was progressing.  The man replied, "You know I was at one time worth one hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars in cash; but I have lost it all.  I would not have regarded the loss of the money so much, had I not lost it on a <HI REND="italics">sure thing</HI>
055.sgm:."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>422</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>On one occasion a well-dressed lady came to the bank and engaged in a long conversation with our cashier.  On passing through his department several times, I observed the lady frequently weeping.  After she had left, I inquired of the cashier as to the subject of the interview.  He stated substantially that she came to sell him an elegant copy of Audubon's "Birds of America," and had explained to him the reasons for offering it for sale.  She said that she was then living with her second husband; that her first husband, who was much older than herself, had died and left her a fortune; that her second husband was of suitable age for her; that she had married him some eight months before, and soon after his return from Europe, whither he had gone to complete his education; that he was a finely educated gentleman; that they had been some months in San Francisco on a visit; that they had invested all her money in mining-stock speculations, and had lost all; and that they were upon the verge of actual want, and were compelled to sell everything they could spare to procure the mere necessaries of life.  It was evident that her second marriage was a love-match; and that, while her second husband was an accomplished gentleman, he was but a child in business.  This case was too sad to laugh at.</P>
055.sgm:<P>When I arrived in San Francisco in March, 1849, I found an old settler residing here with his family.  He was a man of means, and left the city about 1855, and settled in one of the States east of the Rocky Mountains.  About 1873 he sent a telegram to his banker in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>423</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>But I have every reason to believe that failures are sometimes falsely attributed to speculations in mining stocks.  This pretense is resorted to in order to swindle creditors.</P>
055.sgm:<P>For example, a firm composed of two or more partners, finding business dull and expenses and losses greater than gains, deliberately determine to cheat their creditors, and in this way to make a handsome profit.  How to do so successfully, and with the least possible delay and disgrace, is the question with them.  Bankruptcy they know to be not only a slow but an uncertain mode; and, to save anything, they must hide their money, commit perjury, and incur a stain upon their business honor that will stick to them as long as they live.  They therefore adopt the common plan of compromising with their creditors.  But to do this successfully they must make out what claims to be a full and true statement of their assets and liabilities, and must be prepared to satisfy their creditors that this statement is true.  Perhaps only six months before they had made a statement in full to the mercantile agencies, or to some of their creditors, showing the firm to have been then in a fair condition.  But, when they make out a statement for a compromise, showing so great a difference, how are they to account for the discrepancy between the two statements?  Every sensible business man will at once see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>424</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>436</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>425</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>TRUE RULE AS TO BANK CONTRIBUTIONS--BANKING A TRYING BUSINESS--THE INFALLIBLE BANKER--FIVE MAIN POINTS TO CONSIDER IN MAKING LOANS--DEVICES TO OBTAIN CREDIT. Soon after our little bank went into practical operation, we were called upon to contribute from the corporate funds for various charitable purposes.  This bank, being the first incorporated commercial institution in this city, had to take a just stand upon this subject and maintain it.  Up to this period all the commercial banks in San Francisco were mere partnerships, and of course could legally and justly give away the partnership funds by the consent of all the partners.  But incorporated banks were placed in a new and totally different position, though this difference was not apparent for a time to those who asked for contributions.  Our charter did not allow the officers of the bank to give away the money of the stockholders; and, had the officers done so, they would have been individually liable.  Besides, it was an unjust principle to ask the bank to give in its corporate capacity, and then go to each stockholder and ask him to give as an individual.  This would have been a double burden.  Our stockholders claimed the undoubted right to bestow their charities upon such objects as their judgment approved, and in such amounts as they, in their own opinion, could reasonably spare.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It is a wise and salutary feature in the charter of incorporated banks, that no power is conferred upon the officers to give away the funds of the institution.  An individual banker or a partnership can well do so, as they bestow only their own money, and not that of others.  Most bank officers have but a small amount of stock in the institution, and, if allowed to give away its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>426</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>I soon saw what the ultimate result must be, should we act upon a false theory; and I took the stand that, <HI REND="italics">as a bank</HI>
055.sgm:<P>As already stated, I had had no special training as a banker.  I possessed, as I thought, a fair amount of general business knowledge.  In my business transactions, I acted upon Lord Chesterfield's rule of politeness--"softness in the manner, but firmness in the execution"; and I found this an admirable rule for a banker.  My first care in my new position was to comprehend the true situation.  I had engaged in a trying and perilous business, that required for its successful management not only a comprehensive knowledge of business in general, but a superior judgment of men-- the highest order of business capacity.  I was often forcibly reminded of that profound couplet of Pope:.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The good must merit God's peculiar care;<LB>But who, but God, can tell us who they are?"<LB></HI>
055.sgm:<P>I soon found that a banker would be called either a hard man or a fool.  If he lent the money of the bank <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>438</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>427</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>A banker is exposed to every <HI REND="italics">possible</HI>
055.sgm: test, as he meets every class of men, in all their various conditions and moods. If he is avaricious, they will be very apt to overcome him with presents and commissions.  If he is vain and has a lust of praise, they will flatter him to his heart's content.  If he is indolent and good-natured, they will pleasantly induce him to make bad loans.  If he is too kind-hearted, they will overcome his sympathies. If he is timid, they will bully him.  If he is excitable, they will worry and confuse him.  If he is not clear-headed, they will out-talk and persuade him.  In short, he has to encounter <HI REND="italics">every</HI>
055.sgm: class of men: the good, safe business man, with whom it is a pleasure to deal; the partially insane and abusive man, when pecuniarily embarrassed; the vain, conceited man, who thinks he knows it all, and piles up his advice; the eager, visionary, financial dreamer, full of "hopes and schemes"; the bold, reckless, and unprincipled speculator; the cheat, the forger, the thief.  Each one comes with his speech prepared in advance.  A banker will in due time find out that the best talkers are generally "men of words and not of deeds."  They talk remarkably well, but do not generally pay.  The chronic borrower, from long practice, understands borrowing as a science.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>439</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>428</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>A banker may for a time gain the reputation of possessing an <HI REND="italics">infallible</HI>
055.sgm: judgment of men, if he will only adopt the bold plan of quickly and promptly saying yes or no to all applications for loans.  If a good man comes and asks for a loan, and it is instantly granted, he, <HI REND="italics">knowing</HI>
055.sgm: that he is good, goes away, saying to himself, "What a splendid judge of human nature!"  If the visionary comes, and as promptly obtains a loan, he, <HI REND="italics">thinking</HI>
055.sgm: himself good, goes away admiring the wonderful instinct of the banker.  So of all other classes of borrowers who <HI REND="italics">succeed</HI>
055.sgm:<P>In considering a proposed loan, there are five main points of inquiry:</P>
055.sgm:<P>1.  Is the proposed borrower thoroughly honest?</P>
055.sgm:<P>2.  Has he an adequate capital?</P>
055.sgm:<P>3.  Is his business a reasonably safe one?</P>
055.sgm:<P>4.  Does he manage it well?</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>429</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>5.  Is he a good economist in his living?</P>
055.sgm:<P>All these should concur to make a loan a fair business risk.</P>
055.sgm:<P>We are often forced to form a judgment of men from very trifling circumstances; but these are keys to the position.  Men may successfully conceal their real characters in important matters, but will reveal them in little things.  If a man borrows money, and at the same time is found insuring his life for the benefit of his family, or improving a homestead, or living above his means, or driving fine horses, or doing any other thing incompatible with the condition of an honest debtor, those who lend him money will be very apt to receive a notice to attend a meeting of creditors.</P>
055.sgm:<P>It is surprising how many devices (most of them old, but some of them new) unprincipled and extravagant men will resort to in order to obtain money.</P>
055.sgm:<P>For example, a speculator will purchase and pay for a valuable and productive parcel of real estate, which he will <HI REND="italics">never</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Another speculator sets out in his early manhood to speculate in produce, say cotton or grain, and he deliberately adopts a theory, either originated by himself or suggested to him by some older head.  He determines to conduct the business as carefully as he can, but upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>441</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>430</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:borrowed capital and at the risk of others.  If he should succeed, he will pocket all the profits; if he should fail, his creditors must bear all the loss.  He will be liberal in his charities and in his contributions to public objects, as his generosity costs <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
055.sgm: nothing, and he receives great praise without merit.  He will be a generous patron of the fine arts, and be called a man of fine taste.  In the course of time he suspends, and compromises with his creditors at a fraction on the dollar, giving them a verbal promise (not binding in law) that he will in time pay every dollar of his old debts, without interest.  At this, his first suspension, we will assume for the sake of illustration that his total assets amount to five hundred thousand dollars, and his liabilities to the same amount, which he discharges with two hundred and fifty thousand, thus netting that sum by the compromise.  He now has a handsome capital, and commences business again, and for a time he succeeds well.  He now borrows still more largely, and out of this <HI REND="italics">borrowed</HI>
055.sgm:<P>In the mean time he marries and rears a family in splendor and in the enjoyment of all the luxuries of the world.  In the course of time, however, he overreaches himself in his expenses and speculations, and suspends a second time, calls his creditors together again, and proposes another compromise upon the old basis.  He assures them that he will pay every dollar in the future, as he did in the past, if they will only discharge him.  His creditors remember well his former noble act, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>431</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:they consider it, and easily agree to release him upon the terms proposed.  In the second suspension he makes a much larger profit than in the first.  He starts again with increased capital to run the same career.  But at his death it will be found that his life had been insured to a large amount for the benefit of his family, not of his creditors, although <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Whenever any man lives extravagantly, and at the same time owes any considerable amount of money, his credit in bank should be very low, whatever may be his <HI REND="italics">apparent</HI>
055.sgm:<P>I have lately seen a letter from a man twenty-four years old, who is a student at college, to his father, from which I am permitted to take the following extract: " <HI REND="italics">The moment a man spends too much on himself, he is to be watched</HI>
055.sgm:.  Now, I mean whether his income is one hundred dollars a year or five hundred dollars a year.  This rule applies whether he has or has not vices, is or is not honest, a Christian or not one.  You must not understand me as meaning the old proverb, <HI REND="italics">If a man spends more than he earns, he will wind up in the poor-house or penitentiary.</HI>
055.sgm: He may save <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>432</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>There is a depth of sound practical judgment shown in this extract, which is remarkable as coming from one so young and inexperienced.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Natural and reasonable wants are few and limited, while artificial and unreasonable wants are many and unlimited.  When, therefore, a man <HI REND="italics">begins</HI>
055.sgm:<P>And I lay down this rule as <HI REND="italics">generally</HI>
055.sgm: true: If a man <HI REND="italics">once</HI>
055.sgm: goes through insolvency or bankruptcy, or compromises with his creditors, or indulges in unreasonable expenses, he is unworthy of credit.  I say <HI REND="italics">generally</HI>
055.sgm:<P>A GOOD BANKER MAY OFTEN SAVE HIS CUSTOMERS FROM LOSSES AGAINST THEIR WILL--INCIDENTS OF THE SUSPENSION OF CERTAIN BANKS IN 1875--DIFFICULTY OF OBTAINING FAITHFUL EMPLOYEES.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Sometimes the greatest good a sound banker can do his customers, and the one for which he receives at the time the fewest thanks and the most censure, is to check <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>433</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Other young business men, who have had no fortune left them, will be very anxious to make a fortune speedily, so that they can enjoy it before they become old.  When they come to their banker with paper for discount, these ardent customers are nearly always certain to consider <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
055.sgm:<P>About a month and a half before the suspension of certain large banks in this city in August, 1875, a customer of ours rushed into our bank one day, and said to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>445</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>434</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>Another service a banker may do his customers, especially young business men, is to require them to pay their notes punctually at maturity.  This practice keeps them active, vigilant, and firm in making collections from their own customers.  If unduly indulged themselves by their bankers, they in turn become too indulgent, and ultimate ruin is the legitimate result.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I remember a case wherein I erred myself, to the injury of our customer as well as our own, by being too indulgent.  He kept a good balance in the bank, and we had loaned him, upon his own name, the sum of four thousand dollars.  He was a man of mature age, steady habits, good character, and fair capital.  The loan ran on for several years, and was renewed from time to time, the interest being always punctually paid.  Finally, this staid, industrious old gentleman went into speculations in mining stocks, and, as usual, lost all.  The first I knew of his failure was from his own melancholy letter informing me of the fact.  I sent for him, and we had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>435</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>When the run on the banks occurred in 1875, we knew nothing of it until it commenced.  We were then told that there was a run on a certain bank, and in half an hour afterward that bank closed its doors.  In a panic the crowd of depositors seem to have an infallible instinct.  They will be certain to first run on the weakest bank, and then on others in proportion to their want of strength.  This run on the banks conclusively proved the truth and reason of the Scripture command, "Be ye always ready."</P>
055.sgm:<P>We at once stopped all loans, and required those who were not depositors with the bank to pay their notes as they fell due; otherwise they would go to protest.  We were compelled, for our own protection, to adopt and inflexibly enforce this peremptory rule.  They urged us to permit the endorsers to waive demand and protest.  I saw that, if we did this in one case, we must in many, and would thus be compelled to carry the customers of other banks through the crisis.  I said, "Pay or be protested.  The rule is as inflexible as the laws of the Medes and Persians."</P>
055.sgm:<P>One man had two notes falling due on the same day, and he urged me to let them go over, upon a waiver of demand and protest, as he could not possibly pay them when due.  I said, "You must pay or be protested."  He urged and urged again and again; and about half an hour before the bank closed for the day he went out, declaring the notes must go to protest.  But about fifteen minutes later he came into my office, flaunting the notes in my face, and saying he wanted to quarrel with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>447</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>436</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:me.  I told him to sit down and I would hear him.  He complained and grumbled about my harshness, and said I had hurt his feelings.  After he had finished, I said to him quietly and good-humoredly: "I have my money now, and I think I can stand your grumbling."  At this he laughed heartily, and went away.  A day or two afterward I mentioned the circumstance to the endorser of the notes, and he at once said, "Why, he had already provided for those notes."  The truth was, the maker had other notes falling due within a few days, and was not <HI REND="italics">certain</HI>
055.sgm:<P>In many cases I was very sorry for the parties whose notes we were compelled to protest.  I remember the case of a most admirable man, whose hair was gray, and who was evidently a gentleman in every sense of the term.  I had never seen him before, because he had never before asked indulgence on a note of his.  He assured me that his note had never gone to protest in a single case; and it was so hard, at this period of his life, to have his note protested.  He exhibited the truest financial feeling and honor, and told me that he would pay the note within two days if I would permit the endorser to waive.  I assured him of my kindest feeling toward him, and of my fullest confidence in his good faith; but the rule of the bank was inflexible and must be carried out.  He went away sorrowful, and left me so.  I knew he was a true man.  The note went to protest, and he paid it within two days thereafter.  I then said to him, "Do not let this protest give you any pain.  In such a crisis as this, the notes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>448</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>437</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>The suspension occurred on Thursday, and on the Tuesday following a gentleman of my acquaintance, who was an officer of an interior bank, came into my office smiling, and inquired whether I thought any money could be borrowed in San Francisco on United States bonds as collateral.  I laughed, and told him I <HI REND="italics">rather</HI>
055.sgm:<P>One of the greatest difficulties in conducting a bank is to obtain faithful and competent officers and other assistants.  This is especially so in California, as so few young men are natives, whose families are well known here.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The discipline in a bank must be as rigid as that in an army.  If an employee willfully and deliberately disobeys orders, he should be discharged.  If, when caught in making a mistake, he manifests no feeling, no regret, but takes it coolly and indifferently, it shows that he has deliberately trained his feelings to bear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>449</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>438</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:reproof, and he is not to be trusted.  If he shirks his duty, and throws an unfair proportion of the work upon others, he exhibits an unjust disposition, and should be discharged.  If he is late in coming to the bank, so as just to save his time, he had better be watched.  If he is too fond of display, and carries a little cane for show, you had better conclude,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Little cane,Little brain;<LB>Little work,<LB>And big shirk."<LB></HI>
055.sgm:<P>He will spend too much time on the streets to show himself.  If he is a fast young man in <HI REND="italics">any way</HI>
055.sgm:<P>But a young man of good habits, pleasant manners, fair health, and good temper, who saves up a portion of his income, may be safely trusted.  To bear the continual strain of good economy is a clear proof of integrity, good, sound, practical common sense, and self-control.  Such a man soon becomes independent in his circumstances, and does not need to steal.  Occasionally a young man may be found who is competent, sober, economical, and industrious, and who will yet steal from sheer avarice; but such cases are remarkably rare.  An inordinate love of pleasure is the ruin of very many young men in our day.  Extravagance in dress and living is the great besetting sin of the times, in almost every portion of the world.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>450</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>439</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>EXTREME WEALTH NOT THE HAPPIEST CONDITION IN LIFE--REASONS FOR THIS CONCLUSION. Since the fundamental change in my religious views, I have not sought to accumulate a large fortune, nor desired to become a millionaire.  I understood myself, whether others understood me or not.  I do not consider it the happiest state of life.  Far from it.  The poor need money to supply their wants, while the extremely rich desire more wants to absorb their wealth.  Extreme wealth and extreme poverty are two <HI REND="italics">opposites</HI>
055.sgm:<P>As a general rule, it is very difficult to acquire a <HI REND="italics">large</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Before a man can engage in these evil practices, he must first expel from his bosom all genuine love for his race.  He must first make his selfish thirst for wealth the absorbing passion of his life, and to the same extent crush or smother every feeling of his better nature.  He must first destroy his <HI REND="italics">capacity</HI>
055.sgm: for the enjoyment of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>451</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>440</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>But, when he attains his position as millionaire by these unjust means, he is not at the summit of human happiness.  There are thousands of vexations in his path.  His wealth is almost certain to be overestimated five to one; and, while such a false estimate may flatter his vanity, he is expected to give in charity or otherwise an amount in proportion to this overestimate.  If he fails to do this, then he is severely censured by his fellow men; and if he does comply with these expectations he soon ceases to be rich. He is forced by circumstances to become to a great extent an isolated being, and must limit his friendships to a very small circle.  In fact, he can scarcely know the happiness of disinterested friendship, or of devoted love for his children.  If he mingles freely in society, and is kind and cordial in his manners, many of those he meets will seek to take advantage of these circumstances to ask for pecuniary favors.  Committees of both men and women call on him for contributions for charitable and other purposes, and will bring every influence to bear upon him.  If he responds, the amount will hardly equal their expectations, or secure their genuine respect. He can not go through the streets of a city like other men.  If he attempts it, he must dash along at a rapid rate, to avoid importunity on the way.  If he gives or lends at all, he is beset so often and so persistently that he enjoys no privacy and no peace.  If he gives nothing, then he is reproached very justly.  He is compelled to go through the streets in his carriage, and to have his regular office-hours for seeing people, and his home in the country, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>452</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>441</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:where he can not be seen; or he must spend much of his time abroad, to escape the incessant importunities of friends and relatives, who desire loans they are likely never to return.  If he is vain, they will flatter him to any desirable extent. If he receives any favors, he will often be expected to return about ten to one.  Like the president of a large bank, who received a present of a fine Durham calf from an applicant for a large loan, he is very certain to become a victim if he consents to accept presents.  In short, he is forced to become a being unlike others.  To his condition the lines of Pope are most applicable:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Painful pree&die;minence! yourself to view,<LB>Above life's weakness, and its comforts too."<LB></HI>
055.sgm:<P>But the most deplorable feature in the condition of a millionaire, whose fortune has been acquired by unjust means, is the unhappy effect it generally has upon his own descendants, and upon a large proportion of his relatives.  Is is not the <HI REND="italics">practical</HI>
055.sgm: way to found, but to extirpate, a family.  How few of the chidren and relatives of such men ever become good and happy members of society!  This is particularly true in our country, where the law of entail does not exist.  When a rich American dies, his property speedily goes into the hands of his heirs or legatees, or into the pockets of the lawyers; and, in nine cases out of ten, those who share his estate become poor before they die.  It is well known that rich men make the most complex and silly wills of any class of people in our country.  His children are reared in idleness and luxury.  They may have a fair classical education, but no knowledge of business or of economy.  The father is generally too busy and too selfish, and the mother too fond of travel and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>453</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>442</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:display, to teach the children any practical ideas of the serious business of life.  When the large fortune is divided among a number of children, the portion that falls to each one is not sufficient long to maintain his expensive habits, because he is ignorant of the cardinal principles of practical business.  Every true business man knows that it requires more sound business knowledge to <HI REND="italics">retain</HI>
055.sgm:<P>Even if the parents use all reasonable measures properly to rear and educate their children, they will have a most difficult task to accomplish.  They will find it impossible to conceal from their children the fact that the parents are rich; and it is exceedingly difficult, when they are once in the possession of this knowledge, to make the young people understand the <HI REND="italics">absolute</HI>
055.sgm:<P>The result is, the children half obey their parents while they <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
055.sgm:, be at the same time resolve in their own minds to show their parents, in due time, how to enjoy a fortune.  Nine out of ten of the children of rich parents ultimately become poor, sour, unhappy, and worthless members of society.  They generally make bad matches.  The reason is obvious.  Their inferiors in fortune are far more obsequious, deferential, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>454</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>443</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:and attentive than their equals.  Poor young men who have <HI REND="italics">just</HI>
055.sgm:<P>But the effect upon the other relatives is generally most injurious.  If one of a number of brothers becomes very rich (and especially if such riches be acquired by improper means), then some of them will become agrarians, and urge a division.  Some of them will be ambitious to rival the rich brother, and will plunge into wild speculations and fail.  One portion of them will refuse to do anything they are competent to do, and others will run wild.  Most of them will be extremely envious of the rich brother.  When he assists one, he must aid all the others, or they will complain bitterly among the kin, and often among strangers.  To aid so many in comparative idleness and wild speculations is a huge task.  The largest fortune will soon vanish under such exorbitant demands.  Each one thinks he ought to live as well as the rich brother; and they will do their utmost practically to carry out their views.  If they do not administer upon his estate during his life, they are very apt to succeed after his death.  The ultimate general result will be, that not one member of the family, remote or near, not even the rich man himself, will be really and substantially benefited by his riches.  He has only accumulated this large fortune for others to waste, to their own material injury.</P>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>455</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>444</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>It is exceedingly difficult for a rich man to protect himself against the countless devices of those who seek his wealth.  In large commercial cities especially, they will beset him with every possible plea.  Many of the cases will be meritorious, as the world is full of real misery; while many will be false, as the world is full of vice.  To protect himself effectually, the rich man must be armed with the quills of the porcupine, or covered with the hide of the rhinoceros.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Not long since a man came to a rich old acquaintance in San Francisco, and asked for the loan of about one hundred and twenty-five dollars, to pay his passage to New York.  He told a most plausible story, and intimated very plainly that he would commit suicide in case he failed to obtain relief.  The rich man was deeply concerned, and came to me for advice.  It seemed as if the man's life would be lost by his own criminal act in case he could not obtain the sum desired.  If the rich man refused the request, then he might, to some extent, be answerable for the life of a fellow creature.  If he advanced the money, he might do so to an unworthy man, and be thus encouraging vice by rewarding it.  While we were considering the question, we ascertained that this man had drawn from a bank, only two or three days before, about one hundred and seventy-fivedollars.  The request was refused; and within a day or two thereafter the man came into the office of the rich man, and boastfully showed him the amount of money he had applied for, alleging that he had obtained it from another person.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">general</HI>
055.sgm: result is as I have stated.  Of course, there are exceptions enough to prove the truth of the general rule.  All the close observations of a long and active life have satisfied me, beyond a doubt, of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>456</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>445</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:wisdom and truth of the sentiment written some thousands of years ago, and found in the grand old Bible:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"<HI REND="italics">Give me neither poverty nor riches.</HI>
055.sgm:."<LB></HI>
055.sgm:<P>WIVES SHOULD BE CONSULTED ABOUT ALL IMPORTANT AFFAIRS--DAUGHTERS SHOULD BE TAUGHT A KNOWLEDGE OF BUSINESS--CONCLUSION.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The late Colonel John Thornton, then the most distinguished man of Clay County, Missouri, when considering a serious business proposition I submitted to him in 1835, made a remark to me that at once arrested my attention, and met my hearty approbation, it seemed to me to be so sensible and so just.  He said: "Burnett, your proposition strikes me favorably; but before I decide upon it I must go home and consult my wife.  It is a rule with me to consult her upon all important matters."</P>
055.sgm:<P>I adopted it myself, and have only violated it once or twice, and was justly punished when I did.  I have for many years kept my wife well informed of the true state of my business affairs; and we both have taught our sons and daughters to understand business.  She and myself have divided the labors and duties of life between us.  For example, when we came to live in San Francisco in 1863, I said to her, "Wife, I have to run the bank, and you must run the house."  She replied, "All right.  You furnish me the money, and I will attend to the house."</P>
055.sgm:<P>As we were well advanced in life, and as we had a private residence in San Jose&acute;, and as I could use all my little capital under my own supervision, we decided to occupy a rented house, and we have been tenants ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>457</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>446</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>In the course of my long and busy life, I have known many rich widows, and about three fourths of them lost all or most of their estates for want of business knowledge.  Their parents and husbands taught them nothing about business, and, when they became widows, they readily fell victims to the wiles of others.  We men are engaged in business all our lives, and we never learn too much about it; and it is not at all surprising that women who have never been taught business, and never had any practical knowledge of it, should be overreached and cheated by the numerous and plausible sharpers that are sure to encounter them.</P>
055.sgm:<P>I knew a rich widow, who lent all the money of the estate in the month of May to a smooth, pleasant, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>458</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>447</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>My wife and myself have now (September 26, 1878) lived together more than fifty years.  We have lived happy lives, and I trust we may die happy deaths.  Our two sons and two daughters are well married.  The two sons and one daughter reside in this city, and the other daughter in San Jose&acute; and we can see all the children and grandchildren within three hours.  Our children are all that we could reasonably wish them to be; and our grandchildren, so far, have given us no pain, but have been a great source of pleasure to us in our old age.  We have been greatly blest, for which we can not be too thankful to our Heavenly Father.  Although <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Time's defacing waves<LB>Long have quenched the radiance of our brows,"<LB></HI>
055.sgm: our affection for each other is as warm and devoted as it ever was.<LB><HI REND="blockindent">"The heart that once truly loves never forgets, But as truly loves on to the close; As the sunflower turns on her god when he sets<LB>The same look that she turn'd when he rose."</HI>
055.sgm:<P>We have put our house in order.  Our labors are about ended.  We know not the future; but we abide <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>459</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>448</PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:God's holy will with faith, resignation, and hope.  Charles Carroll of Carrollton said, in his ninety-sixth year, that nothing gave him so much satisfaction as the fact that he had regularly discharged his religious duties.  It is so with us.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Though we are living now, 'twill soon be o'er;<LB>Adown the West<LB>Life's sun is setting, and we see the shore<LB>Where we shall rest."</HI>
055.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
055.sgm:<BACK><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>460</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<AD><P>American Authors and Artists.<LB><HI REND="italics">NEW ILLUSTRATED COOPER</HI>
055.sgm:. The Novels of J. Fenimore Cooper. With 64 Engravings on Steel, from Drawings by F. O. C. DARLEY.<LB>Complete in 16 volumes.  Price for the complete set, $16.00.</P>
055.sgm:<P>***This edition of the Novels of Cooper is the cheapest ever offered to the public.  It contains the entire series of novels, two being bound in each volume; and the series of steel plates, from drawings by F. O. C. Darley, originally engraved for the finer editions, at a great cost, which are conceded to be the best work on steel ever produced in America.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The Homes of America.<LB>With 103 Illustrations on Wood.  Edited by Mrs. MARTHA J. LAMB, author of "The History of the City of New York."  Quarto.  In full morocco, price, $12.00; in cloth, extra gilt, price, $6.00.</P>
055.sgm:<P>"The Homes of America" is a superb holiday volume, of quarto size, exquisitely printed on toned paper, containing engravings of the highest art-character, illustrating the homes of America in the Colonial, the Later, and the Modern Periods.  It will have a leading place among the holiday books of the season.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Landscape in American Poetry.<LB>Illustrated from Original Drawings by J. APPLETON BROWN.  Descriptive Text by LUCY LARCOM.  Large octavo.  In full morocco, price, $8.00; in cloth, extra gilt, price, $4.00.</P>
055.sgm:<P>The illustrations in the volume are of remarkable freshness, and illustrate, so far as practicable, the actual scenes described in the verses of Bryant, Longfellow, Lowell, Whittier, and others of our poets.  The engravings, therefore, apart from their striking and artistic beauty, have associations that add greatly to their value and interest.</P>
055.sgm:<P>American Painters.<LB>Being Biographical Sketches of Fifty leading American Artists, with Eighty-three Examples of their Works, engraved on Wood, in the most perfect manner.  In cloth, extra gilt, price, $7.00.</P>
055.sgm:<P>As an evidence of the value and beauty of this volume, we may mention that the cost of the engravings was nearly <HI REND="italics">thirteen thousand dollars</HI>
055.sgm:<P>For sale by all booksellers; or sent, post-paid, to any address in the United States, on receipt of price.</P>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">D. APPLETON &amp; CO., Publishers, New York.</HI>
055.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>461</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<HEAD>RECENT PUBLICATIONS.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>I.<LB><HI REND="italics">THE PATHOLOGY OF MIND</HI>
055.sgm:<P>SUMMARY OF CONTENTS: Sleep and Dreaming; Hypnotism, Somnambulism, and Allied States; The Causation and Prevention of Insanity: (A) Etiological; The Causation and Prevention of Insanity: (B) Pathological; The Insanity of Early Life; The Symptomatology of Insanity; Clinical Groups of Mental Disease; The Morbid Anatomy of Mental Derangement; The Treatment of Mental Disorders.</P>
055.sgm:<P>II.  <HI REND="italics">THE CHEMISTRY OF COMMON LIFE</HI>
055.sgm:<P>SUMMARY OF CONTENTS: The Air we Breathe; The Water we Drink; The Soil we Cultivate; The Plant we Rear; The Bread we Eat; The Beef we Cook; The Beverages we Infuse; The Sweets we Extract; The Liquors we Ferment; The Narcotics we Indulge in; The Poisons we Select; The Odors we Enjoy; The Smells we Dislike; The Colors we Admire; What we Breathe and Breathe for; What, How, and Why we Digest; The Body we Cherish; The Circulation of Matter.</P>
055.sgm:<P>III.  <HI REND="italics">PROGRESS AND POVERTY</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"I propose to seek the law which associates poverty with progress, and increases want with advancing wealth; and I believe that in the explanation of this paradox we shall find the explanation of those recurring seasons of industrial and commercial paralysis which, viewed independently of their relations to more general phenomena, seem so inexplicable."-- <HI REND="italics">Extract from Introduction.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>IV.  <HI REND="italics">GREAT LIGHTS IN SCULPTURE AND PAINTING</HI>
055.sgm:<P>"This little volume has grown out of a want felt by a writer who desired to take a class through the history of the great sculptors and painters, as a preliminary step to an intelligent journey through Europe."-- <HI REND="italics">From Preface</HI>
055.sgm:<P>For sale by all booksellers; or sent, post-paid, to any address in the United States, on receipt of price.</P>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">D. APPLETON &amp; CO., Publishers, New York</HI>
055.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>462</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<HEAD>THE TURNER GALLERY.</HEAD>
055.sgm:<P>A SERIES OF One Hundred and Twenty Engravings on Steel,<LB>FROM THE WORKS OF<LB>J. M. W. TURNER, R.A.</P>
055.sgm:<P>Each plate is accompanied by historical and critical remarks, compiled from authentic sources, so that the whole affords a most instructive guide to the study of Turner's unrivaled pictures.</P>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Two folio volumes.  Price, half morocco</HI>
055.sgm:, $32.00; <HI REND="italics">full morocco</HI>
055.sgm:<P>TURNER, the world-renowned English painter, is not only acknowledged to be the greatest landscape-painter England has produced, but he is, by general consent, placed next to, if not by the side of, Claude Lorraine, the most distinguished of the great Continental masters in landscape-art.  Turner's paintings, being remarkable for breadth of effect and of shadow, and brilliant representation of light, are peculiarly adapted for engraving.  It is, indeed, remarkable that, although the most vivid colorist of modern times, no painter's works are so susceptible of reproduction by the graver.</P>
055.sgm:<P><LB>THE POET AND PAINTER: Or, Gems of Art and Song.<LB><HI REND="italics">An imperial 8vo volume, containing Choice Selections from the English Poets</HI>
055.sgm:.<LB>Superbly illustrated with Ninety-nine Steel Engravings, printed in the best manner on the page with the text.</P>
055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">New edition: cloth, extra</HI>
055.sgm:, $12.00; <HI REND="italics">morocco, antique, or extra</HI>
055.sgm:<P>D. APPLETON &amp; CO., PUBLISHERS, NEW YORK.</P>
055.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>463</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">We can not too highly commend this latest scheme for presenting good literature in comely and convenient shape, at extremely low prices</HI>
055.sgm:<P><LB>Appletons' New Handy-Volume Series.<LB>BRILLIANT NOVELETTES; ROMANCE, ADVENTURE, TRAVEL, HUMOR; HISTORIC, LITERARY, AND SOCIETY MONOGRAPHS.</P>
055.sgm:<P>1.  <HI REND="bold">Jet: Her Face or her Fortune?</HI>
055.sgm:<P>2.  <HI REND="bold">A Struggle.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>3.  <HI REND="bold">Misericordia.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>4.  <HI REND="bold">Gordon Baldwin,</HI>
055.sgm: and <HI REND="bold">The Philosopher's Pendulum.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>5.  <HI REND="bold">The Fisherman of Auge.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>6.  <HI REND="bold">The Essays of Elia.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>7.  <HI REND="bold">The Bird of Passage.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>8.  <HI REND="bold">The House of the Two Barbels.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>9.  <HI REND="bold">Lights of the Old English Stage.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>10.  <HI REND="bold">Impressions of America.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>11.  <HI REND="bold">The Goldsmith's Wife.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>12.  <HI REND="bold">A Summer Idyl.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>13.  <HI REND="bold">The Arab Wife.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>14.  <HI REND="bold">Mrs. Gainsborough's Diamonds.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>15.  <HI REND="bold">Liquidated,</HI>
055.sgm: and <HI REND="bold">The Seer.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>16.  <HI REND="bold">The Great German Composers.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>17.  <HI REND="bold">Antoinette.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>18.  <HI REND="bold">John-a-Dreams.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>19.  <HI REND="bold">Mrs. Jack.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>20.  <HI REND="bold">English Literature.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>21.  <HI REND="bold">Raymonde.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>22.  <HI REND="bold">Beaconsfield.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>23.  <HI REND="bold">The Multitudinous Seas.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>24.  <HI REND="bold">The Disturbing Element.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>25.  <HI REND="bold">Fairy Tales:</HI>
055.sgm:<P>26.  <HI REND="bold">Thomas Carlyle:</HI>
055.sgm:<P>27.  <HI REND="bold">A Thorough Bohemienne.</HI>
055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>464</CONTROLPGNO>
055.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
055.sgm:<P>28.  <HI REND="bold">The Great Italian and French Composers.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>29.  <HI REND="bold">Ruskin on Painting.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>30.  <HI REND="bold">An Accomplished Gentleman.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>31.  <HI REND="bold">An Attic Philosopher in Paris;</HI>
055.sgm:<P>32.  <HI REND="bold">A Rogue's Life:</HI>
055.sgm:<P>33.  <HI REND="bold">Geier-Wally:</HI>
055.sgm:<P>34.  <HI REND="bold">The Last Essays of Elia.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>35.  <HI REND="bold">The Yellow Mask.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>36.  <HI REND="bold">A-Saddle in the Wild West.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>37.  <HI REND="bold">Money.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>38.  <HI REND="bold">Peg Woffington.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>39.  <HI REND="bold">"My Queen."</HI>
055.sgm:<P>40.  <HI REND="bold">Uncle Cesar.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>41.  <HI REND="bold">The Distracted Young Preacher.</HI>
055.sgm: By THOMAS HARDY.  <HI REND="bold">Hester.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>42.  <HI REND="bold">Table-Talk.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>43.  <HI REND="bold">Christie Johnstone.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>44.  <HI REND="bold">The World's Paradises.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>45.  <HI REND="bold">The Alpenstock.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>46.  <HI REND="bold">Comedies for Amateur Acting.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>47.  <HI REND="bold">Vivian the Beauty.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>48.  <HI REND="bold">Great Singers: Faustina Bordoni to Henrietta Sontag.</HI>
055.sgm:  Paper, 30 cts.  49.  <HI REND="bold">A Stroke of Diplomacy.</HI>
055.sgm:<P>50.  <HI REND="bold">Lord Macaulay.</HI>
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055.sgm:<P>Any volume mailed, post-paid, to any address within the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price.</P>
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055.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>465</CONTROLPGNO>
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055.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">D. APPLETON &amp; CO., Publishers, New York</HI>
058.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-058</TITLE>
058.sgm:<TITLE>From the Kennebec to California; reminiscences of a California pioneer. Selected and arranged by Lucy Ellis Riddell. Introduction by Robert Glass Cleland. Edited by Laurence R. Cook: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
058.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
058.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
058.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
058.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
058.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>58-14191</LCCN>
058.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
058.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 443333</COPYRIGHT>
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058.sgm:WESTERN HERITAGE SERIES<LB>I<LB><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<LB>FROM THE KENNEBEC TO CALIFORNIA</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">from the</HI>
058.sgm: KENNEBEC<LB><HI REND="italics">to</HI>
058.sgm: CALIFORNIA<LB><HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of a California Pioneer</HI>
058.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">by</HI>
058.sgm: HENRY HIRAM ELLIS<LB><HI REND="italics">1829-1909</HI>
058.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Selected and arranged by Lucy Ellis Riddell</HI>
058.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Introduction by Robert Glass Cleland</HI>
058.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Edited by Laurence R. Cook</HI>
058.sgm:</p><P>Warren F. Lewis, <HI REND="italics">Publisher</HI>
058.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, California</HI>
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058.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Copyright 1959</HI>
058.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">By Warren F. Lewis, Publisher</HI>
058.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 59-14191</HI>
058.sgm:</p><P>PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA<LB>BY MURRAY &amp; GEE, INC.</p></DIV>
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058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Preface</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>Some 40 years after the passing of my father, looking over the contents of an old camphor chest, a collection of old newspapers, books, magazines, family papers, letters and clippings of a lifetime, I found the beginning of a manuscript of his life.</p><P>Jotted down on the backs of letters, scrap paper in account books, diaries and envelopes were notes of much more of his early life, with newspaper clippings of his public life and services in San Francisco.</p><P>Among this unorganized material I came across these prophetic words:  "Old age and waning powers, which I fully realize, make me know that I cannot hope to write my simple story and make it interesting to my children; yet 'tis a duty I owe to those who will come after me to encourage them to fix their eyes on noble aspirations and to believe in the family motto, <HI REND="italics">Nil Desperandum</HI>
058.sgm:."</p><P>And so I take up the task and joy of piecing together some of the unusually interesting facts and experiences found on these fading bits of paper.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Yes, Father, before more weight of years falls upon me, I will endeavor to carry on and make of these many sketches the "Story" you wanted to leave to your children</HI>
058.sgm:.</p><P>I dedicate it to them and their progeny, hoping some will find in this tale of a self-made man, a pioneer and patriot, inspiration to attain, by the principles and ambition which guided his life, something above mediocracy.</p><P>LUCY ELLIS RIDDELL<LB><HI REND="italics">Altadena, California</HI>
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058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Introduction</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>Born in Waterville, Maine, June 15, 1829, Henry Hiram Ellis arrived in California in July, 1849, shortly after his 20th birthday.</p><P>Thereafter he was, in succession, a gold miner, owner and captain of a Sacramento River boat, owner and captain of a Pacific trading vessel, laborer at odd jobs in San Francisco, policeman, captain of detectives, Chief of Police, merchant, and U.S. Consul at Turks Island in the West Indies.</p><P>He was an active participant in the times of the Vigilante Committees of '51 and '56, and, as Chief of Police, had an important role in the Safety Committee of '76.</p><P>During the Civil war he served as U.S. Marshal of Northern and Southern California.</p><P>In January, 1849, Ellis and his father, Charles Henry Ellis, left Boston for California as passengers on the sailing vessel, <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058.sgm:.</p><P>They arrived in San Francisco separately, however, under circumstances related in this book and also in the diary of the elder Ellis, which appears in the book, <HI REND="italics">"California Gold Rush Voyages, 1848-1849</HI>
058.sgm: " (Huntington Library, 1954).</p><P>His father was born on Cape Cod (Ellisville) Massachusetts, April 9, 1806, a descendant of Lieut. John Ellis who came from Plymouth, England, in 1630 to the Colony in Massachusetts.  Though born of a seafaring race, C. H. Ellis had no love for the sea and after a few voyages, became a merchant and lumberman.  None too successful as a business man, he went down in the great panic of 1837 and never recovered from the blow and thereafter his family saw him infrequently and received but little support from him.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<P>Henry H. Ellis' boyhood days were spent in poverty, his mother struggling to support herself and her two sons.  How he overcame all difficulties and made a place for himself in the affairs of men, will be told in the following pages.</p><P>The publisher assumes (on Mrs. Riddell's assurance) that the material in this book is original and accurate, but recognizes that the unorthodox method of its preparation may have offered opportunities for inaccuracies to slip in.  If such there be, the publisher will not be held responsible.</p><P>ROBERT GLASS CLELAND<LB><HI REND="italics">San Marino, California</HI>
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058.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Contents</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Preface</HI>
058.sgm:<HSEP>vii <HI REND="italics">Introduction</HI>
058.sgm:<HSEP>ix<LB>Chapter I<HSEP>3<LB>Chapter II<HSEP>13<LB>Chapter III<HSEP>28<LB>Chapter IV<HSEP>40<LB>Chapter V<HSEP>48<LB>Chapter VI<HSEP>68 <HI REND="italics">Index</HI>
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058.sgm:<P>FROM THE KENNEBEC TO CALIFORNIA</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<P>Chapter 1</p><P>In December, 1848, believing that the confinement of city life was impairing my constitution, I permitted my yearning for the sea to return.  Nineteen years old, I had neared the top in foundry work and had fulfilled my promise to my mother to give up the sea for awhile and work ashore.</p><P>At that fateful moment my father came to Boston to see me and announced that he had taken passage for California in January in the brig <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058.sgm:.  At once I decided that I too would seek my fortune in the west.  Having become engaged to Elizabeth Capen of Boston, I was eager to establish myself financially, and this seemed a providential opportunity.</p><P>It was not so much that I believed all the wonderful stories that were told of the gold discovery; rather it was that the writers described California as a country of romance and great opportunity for young men.  If it did not prove to be just that, there was Mexico next door, where there must be employment for skilled mechanics.  And if that failed, was I not a sailor, able to land on my feet wherever I should fall?</p><P>So I said to Father, "I'll go with you."</p><P>But Father said "No," because I was doing well where I was, and there, he felt, I should remain, taking care of Mother.  I disregarded his advice, which was also a command.  My resolve had been taken, my years of probation were long past.  The very next morning I presented myself to the captain and agent of the <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058.sgm: as an applicant for the position of second mate, which I had learned was not filled.</p><P>My bleached face and my shore togs were not the best recommendations to present to a shipping office, but I was put through a thorough nautical examination and was questioned about my experience and the ships on which I had sailed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:where we had landed, lo, there was the brig under full sail passing by!  Parties had landed, scoured the country, fired guns, and spent the afternoon looking for me.  Now they made me out, backed the foretops'l, lowered a boat, and sent the mate, Fieldstead, to take me off.</p><P>When I landed on deck, Captain Higgins blessed me in true nautical style.  Father, however, was delighted, and I soon forgot my recent peril.</p><P>It was at Port Famine that I determined not to continue in the <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058.sgm:.  My gorgeous dream of a passenger's heaven had been dissipated.  If I was to work my passage after it had been paid for, I could do better, I decided, and reach my destination more quickly, aboard some fore-and-after-rigged vessel which could more easily make its passage through the Strait--and most of them did so.</p><P>So, quietly, I made my arrangements with a young Englishman (George) of the Governor's household, who agreed to keep me.  Meantime our only two able seamen--a New Hampshire man, Griffith, and a Portuguese called Joe, a Western Islander--had provisioned a boat and left for parts unknown in the direction of the Atlantic.  They were never heard from again.  It was supposed that they fell victims to the Tierra del Fuegians, who were more than suspected of being cannibals.</p><P>When the day of sailing arrived, George was alongside with a boat.  When the anchor was weighed and the brig was paying off, I jumped under her jib to the gangway ladder, cried out to Father, "Good-bye, I'll meet you in California," and to Captain Higgins, "Good-bye, sir, I'll beat you to San Francisco," and leaped into the boat.</p><P>Paying no attention to the captain's urgent command, "Come back," I grabbed the second pair of oars, and my new friend and I soon covered the distance to the shore.</p><P>My father had been speechless, for though I had confided to him my intention, if opportunity offered, to desert the brig for a faster sailing ship, he apparently did not think that the opportunity would offer, or, if it did, that I would really take such a chance.  I interpreted as consent his slight interest in the matter.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:</PAGEINFO><P>I have before me Father's diary of the entire voyage.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
058.sgm: I should like to quote from the diary at length, but will say only that the <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058.sgm: was nearly lost off Cape Horn, where she was driven by bad weather.  Finally, in July, 1849, she arrived in the harbor of San Francisco.  After I left her at Port Famine, I never saw her again, though some of her passengers and crew met in reunion in after years.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">In 1954 this diary was published by the Huntington Library in the volume, <HI REND="italics">California Gold Rush Voyages, 1848-1849.</HI>
058.sgm:<P>My new friend, George, the Englishman, was interpreter and major-domo to the Patagonian Governor.  Sharing his room and bed of skins, I was well satisfied with the change from the crowded cabin and miserable fare of the brig to large quarters, fresh guanaco meat (llama), and vegetables.  A few days were pleasantly passed in hunting guanacos and in fishing.</p><P>On Sunday evening everybody attended a fandango, and a motley gathering it was:  women of every shade, type and color, in whose veins flowed the blood of the ancient Incas, the Moors of Granada, the Castilians from Andalusia, the sturdy Breton, the lively Frank, the persistent German, and the omni-present American.  As for the men, they were shipwrecked and runaway saliors, ticket-of-leave men, convicts who had served their time, and a number of no particular calling.  No doubt the majority had left their country for the country's good.</p><P>Time passed pleasantly.  I had not yet wearied of the strange, novel life when one pleasant April morning a convict came running from the beach shouting, "Um pile hata!  Um pile hata!"  (A schooner! A schooner!).  All hands rushed for the embarcadero, where a boatload of people had just landed from the most beautiful specimen of seagoing architecture I had ever seen:  the New York pilot boat, <HI REND="italics">William G. Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm:.  I went to the beach to meet the people, and an astounding experience befell me.</p><P>Let me go back two and a half years to the fall of 1846, to Wharf No. 7 in Boston, during my unsuccessful endeavor, at 17 years of age, to ship on a deep sea vessel.  It was a dreary rainy evening. My old schoolfellow and shipmate, Neal Nye, was getting his dunnage aboard the new ship <HI REND="italics">Boston</HI>
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058.sgm:bound for Galveston, as one of her crew.  I was to follow as soon as I was paid off and an opportunity came to sail that way.  We were to meet in Galveston or New Orleans and put into execution a half-formed, wild scheme of privateering, to make reprisals upon the enemies of commerce.  War with Mexico had just been declared, and we expected to make the most of it.</p><P>But man proposes, God disposes.  In six weeks I was on the Mediterranean, and Neal was with Zachary Taylor on the Rio Grande, doing battle for his country.  He saw the war through, then returned home to die, afflicted with that terrible disease, dysentery, which laid low more of our brave countrymen than did Mexican bullets.  I was told he had died, and mourned his loss keenly.</p><P>Then on this bright morning, at the end of the world, in a convict settlement in Patagonia, Neal and I miraculously again stood face to face!</p><P>"Harry Ellis!"</p><P>"Neal Nye!"</p><P>The exclamations came forth simultaneously.  A warm handclasp helped dispel the incredulity on our faces, and an hour's chat cleared all mystery.</p><P>"How in the name of fate did you get here?"</p><P>"When were you resurrected?"</p><P>Similar questions came thick and fast.  More important was the question, how could I secure passage on board the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm:? But that came after Neal and I had overhauled our logs together and retold our emotions when each thought the other dead, for Neal had not heard of me since we parted at the sailing of the <HI REND="italics">Boston</HI>
058.sgm:, and he assumed I had gone down to Davy Jones' locker long ago.  I had been equally certain that he had laid down his moorings in that port from which neither seamen nor landsmen return to give us bearings or distance.  But here we were--two dead men!</p><P>Would Captain White give me passage?  I offered him the watch that had been given me by my father.  It was the only valuable possession I had, and I offered it with promises of payment in full for passage when I should gather my share of wealth from the rivers and mountains of California.  Neal had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:offered to share his berth with me, and now I was as eager to get away from the miserable settlement as previously I had been to get ashore.  Finally, when I proposed to work my passage, the offer found favor with the practical skipper.  I was accepted.</p><P>The crew of the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm: consisted of Captain White, a New York pilot (Captain Sturgess), the navigator (George Johnson), the mate (Daniel Lane), seamen, the cook, and myself.  In addition there were nine passengers, including the captain's son Cornelius, a Captain Simmons, my friend Neal Nye, Geroge Rogers (a sick man), and several others.  All hands except the cook lived in the cabin.</p><P>The schooner was not only beautiful to look upon, but was a fast, superior vessel.  She would lie within three points of the wind and outsail anything we fell in with.  Beating through the Strait, Captain White handled her to perfection, but in blue water he was as helpless as a child.  Knowing nothing of navigation, he was miserable when out of sight of land.</p><P>Captain Sturgess had joined the vessel at Rio de Janeiro, taking the place of a man named Whittlesey, who, off Cape St. Roque, was washed off the bowsprit and drowned.  Sturgess, an old shipmaster who had grown grey in the merchant service, had navigated all seas and visited all lands.  He was a genial, cautious gentleman.</p><P>Captain Simmons, who also had joined at Rio, was an old sea dog.  Where he first had seen light he kept a profound mystery.  According to his own testimony, and that of many scars and wounds on his body, he had led a lawless life.  He had been engaged in the wars between Uruguay and her neighbors, Argentina and Brazil.  For years he had taken part in the slave trade between Brazil and the African coast.  Rumors of piracy were whispered.  To Captain White he became an object of suspicion.</p><P>Lest Simmons try to stir up mutiny aboard, Captain White instructed his son to dog his footsteps.  Then White managed to get possession of all the firearms belonging to the passengers and crew.  Nye and Lane, the mischief-makers, kept the worthy captain in a constant state of alarm, repeating imaginary bloody deeds that Simmons was supposed to have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:committed--among which throat-cutting and walking the plank were conspicuous.  Plots were rumored to be on foot to take the vessel and compel all who would not join the mutiny to walk the plank, as in the buccaneering days of Morgan, Dampier and company.</p><P>Poor Simmons, innocent of any such intentions, and at a loss to account for the behavior of the captain and crew, was, like the rest of us, only too eager to reach California and repair his broken fortune.  A few months before he had joined the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm:, his vessel and cargo of ebony had been captured within sight of Pernambuco by a British cruiser.  He and his crew had escaped to land with what they had on, nothing more.</p><P>These practical jokes worked on the captain's timidity to such an extent that he put in to the Galapagos Islands under pretense of procuring fresh water and provisions.  As soon as the anchor was down he called a consultation with a trusted few, revealing his intention to land and then abandon old Simmons, leaving him to his fate.</p><P>It took much argument and some threats to make Captain White relinquish his plot to force Simmons to play the role of a second Robinson Crusoe.  The islands were not inhabited.  When all hands pledged themselves to be responsible for the good conduct of Simmons, White finally gave in.  All went well thereafter to the end of the voyage.</p><P>While at the Galapagos Islands we captured a large green turtle in shallow water and a dozen terrapin from the high table land.  The terrapin were plentiful, some of them three feet across and four or five feet long.  They are a land turtle and require no fresh water.</p><P>Many whalers were cruising for sperm whales in that latitude; yet every vessel that sighted us squared her yards and crowded all sail, intent upon giving us a wide berth.  We were angered and mortified.  Captain White believed with good reason that evidently our craft was an object of suspicion to the blubber hunters.  Long and low in the water, with flush decks, raking masts, little or no sheer, and a straight bowsprit, she indeed looked forbidding enough to justify the fear evidently entertained by the "lime-juicers" that she was a pirate.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:suddenly in the midst of a great fleet of vessels of every kind, size, and nation.</p><P>We were obliged to let everything go by the run, and by the sudden jibing of the foreboom I was struck on the head and knocked senseless into the waist, with half my body hanging over the rail.   Had it not been for the prompt aid of Lane, I would have finished my career then and there.  My quick recovery was the subject of good natured raillery from the ship's company.  The assured me they had no fears for my safety, for "one born to be hanged will never be drowned."</p><P>I might say here that the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm: met with a most in- glorious end.  Captain White took her to Shoal Water Bay, Oregon, where she anchored.  The ebb tide left her aground.  Several canoes manned by Indians paddled out to her, probably out of mere curiosity, but Captain White and his son, panic-stricken, took to their boat and pulled away.  Finding her abandoned, the Indians plundered and burned her to the water's edge.  That was the end of "the finest specimen of marine architecture" of her class to enter San Francisco Bay to that date.  Captain White and his son became Columbia River pilots. Both were lost on the bar when their boat capsized.</p><P>Thirty years later, 11 members of the passengers and crew of the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm: met, as we had from time to time.  Now I have outlived them all.  Several of the crew met violent deaths.  One was washed overboard near the Ladrone Islands.  Another, his brother, was knocked overboard and drowned in Suisun Bay.  A third is buried in the Convent Burial Ground, just below our home in San Francisco. A fourth reached his home in Connecticut to lie with his ancestors.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter 2</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>THOUGH I HAD sailed for California with little faith in the gold stories, when I landed my skepticism turned to amazement. Strange sights greeted me everywhere.  Already gathered here were representatives from many nations.  For the most part they lived in adobe houses, shacks and tents, from the waterfront to Telegraph Hill (then known as Loma Alta), over the sand dunes west for several blocks, and south in a sort of valley to California Street.</p><P>Vivid impressions remain:  Goods piled up on the streets and sold there . . . everywhere piles of gold dust, from fine scale river gold to coarse nuggets mixed with quartz . . . everywhere gambling, coins of every kind piled on gaming tables . . . men with their buckskin bags bursting with the yellow dust . . . silver selling at 16 ounces to one of gold . . . silver of any kind, from the "tin" of Peru to the English shilling . . . a rupee at 50 cents . . . money changers of the streets thriving and waxing fat . . . the dispenser of liquids, taking a pinch of flake gold out of the miner's bag for every drink . . . traders weighing out fine gold in grains or pennyweight . . . paying $5 fare to go to, or come from, a vessel . . . mechanics getting $20 a day . . . chickens selling at $3 apiece,  eggs at 50 cents apiece, drinks at a dollar.</p><P>The harbor was full of abandoned vessels, perhaps 900 of them.  Masters and crews had gone to the mines.  In some cases masters were left with their ships on their hands.  Hundreds of these abandoned ships, such as the <HI REND="italics">Mada Kay</HI>
058.sgm:, and old slaver, rotted and sank in the bay, and today (1904) many hulls lie under the lower streets of the city, having been moored at the wharves and abandoned.</p><P>Seventeen months earlier, when some shiny flakes, tied up in a dirty rag--flakes which "might be gold"--were brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:into Sutter's Fort, an army was started on its way to California. Sailing from every port, crawling over desert and mountains in prairie schooners, Americans, Mexicans, Russians, Hawaiians, Chinese, Australians and many others, with their strange tongues, costumes and countenances, met in this melting pot in a confusion indescribable.</p><P>In 1848 Yerba Buena had a population of about 50 people; in 1849, when the gold rush was on, it was estimated at 20,000, coming and going.  Even navy and army posts were deserted, and the population of San Francisco was correspondingly increased.  It was predominantly a male population, living turbulently under the rule of a disorganized army.</p><P>(I quote Major Roger Butterfield.  Incidentally, when I brought my bride to San Francisco four years later, in 1853, she was fearful to go out on the streets alone, so unusual was the sight of a woman, especially a modest one, in San Francisco.)</p><P>And this was Eldorado!</p><P>The very next day after we arrived, several of us from the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm: took passage for Sacramento on a 15 ton sloop loaded with Chilean flour.  The 20 passengers were crowded on the deck, for, as the sloop had been a longboat, she had no cabin.</p><P>We made good progress until we reached the slough.  There the large trees which overhung the banks literally took the wind out of our sails.  Since the sails were of no account in the narrow slough, it took us a week to work our way through.  We lived on a stew composed of bacon, flour, beans, fish, birds, and chili peppers, too hot for most of us to stomach.</p><P>Captain Simmons was almost eaten alive with mosquitoes, which clouded the slough.  So distorted was his face, it lost the semblance of humanity.  So badly was he poisoned, he could not protect himself from further attack.  I saw him black with the pests.  On landing, we had to carry him ashore in a hammock.  A few more days on the slough, and the mosquitoes would have been the death of him.</p><P>(So bad were the mosquitoes, even boatmen would abandon the river boats for other jobs.)</p><P>When Captain Simmons was able to travel, we set out for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:Lacy's Bar on the North Fork of the American River.  While the rest of us walked, the captain rode in a Spanish oxcart as part of the freight.  The carretta, for the service of which we paid 20 cents per pound, had solid wooden wheels on wooden axles, which shrieked loudly enough to wake the dead.</p><P>After a long trek through valleys and over mountains, we arrived at Lacy's Bar and prepared for our mining operations by making two rockers of tree trunks.</p><P>In our mining we met with fair success, never taking out less than one to three ounce per day per man.  For a week Lane and I each took out 18 ounces a day.</p><P>The first gold I panned out, about half an ounce, I put in a letter  and mailed to a certain young lady in Boston.  Six months later the treasure, in a dirty, dilapidated, torn envelope, reached its destination.  Evidently it had been carried about in the pocket of the man who had undertaken to deliver it.  Though the gold lay loose in the folds of the paper, not one scale was missing.  That identical gold is preserved today.</p><P>It was during this period, on August 18, 1849, that my mother wrote me the following letter:</p><P>"My Dear Child:  I have at last received a letter from you, although you are at the ends of the earth, as it were.  Need I tell you how anxious I have been ever since you left, more especially for six weeks past?</p><P>"I heard a long time ago of the <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058.sgm: being in the Straits of Magellan.  Gilman wrote me of seeing the printed news in a paper 20 of July, and where you could be after that I could not tell, unless you were shipwrecked.  But your letter has come at last and I received it with rejoicing and thankfulness, as I believe everybody else did, for no sooner did the news come that a letter was in the office from California than men flocked to hear and see who it was from.  It was all over town in five minutes.</p><P>(She then mentions a number of local people and other letters received from California.)</p><P>"Mr. Crosby is on his way to San Francisco in the <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058.sgm: from New York.  He is hired by William and Daniel Moors of Waterville to run a steamboat up the Sacramento River, and they carried the boat on board the <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058.sgm:.  Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:description of California, that our editor may have the pleasure of publishing something from the land of gold.  You have had my prayers for your success and still have them.  Yes, my child, you shall still have them.  Write again.  I say write and I will pay the postage with pleasure.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
058.sgm: Describe your country a little.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">There were no stamps or postal facilities.  Letters were personally carried and delivered.  Letters were folded, addressed on blank side of sheet, sealed with wax, and later on amount of postage was marked on the outside.</NOTE>
058.sgm:<P>"Do not work on the Sabbath, my child."</p><P>The 18 ounce finds were beginners' luck and bad for us, for when the finds fell off to three ounces, we were willing to listen to the tale of discovery of "the source of gold," the famous "Gold Lake."</p><P>Excitement over this supposed find had broken out about the time of our arrival in California.  It was generally believed that such a head did exist, the fountain source from which all the gold in California had issued.  It was reported that a certain woman, the first white woman to arrive in Sacramento by the mountain route, had the proofs of the existence of such a lake and was willing to divulge that information.</p><P>From our company of 30, five of us were selected to interview her.  We waited upon her and she showed us two large bags of coarse gold.  Remembering the strange sights in the big city, we were ready to swallow her story as literal truth.  All of us were rather short in our knowledge of geology.  I, the youngest on the bar, not yet 21 years old, was a youthful enthusiast.</p><P>Her story was that she and her husband had left the Missouri River with a company of 50 or more.  Upon reaching the Sierra Nevada Mountains, the two of them had turned off and had entered a canyon in search of food for their weary animals.  Taking turns riding their horses, and leading their three pack mules, they had wandered from one canyon to another.  Finally they had thrown away most of their heavy provisions, caching one lot in a lateral canyon and making short rations of the remainder.</p><P>One night they had camped in a little valley where there was good feed and water.  Then, wandering on as before, they had come to a lake about a mile long and a fourth of a mile <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:born leader, bravest of the brave, he was also gentle as a child.</p><P>A few days of rest and food, and we were off again for the South Fork of the Yuba.  There we settled on a small series of bars a mile long.  So steep was the descent to the river that we could not get our animals out over the same route, and accomplished it finally only by working them slowly down stream.  Meantime the long grass on the river banks furnished them abundance of feed.</p><P>In this deep gorge, where the sun shone but a few hours of the day, we mined until late in November.  During all that time we did not see another human being, and yet in the mountains above the stream, in a spot where I supposed nobody had ever been, I found in a cleft in a rock a piece of newspaper.  It was a Dublin paper, and on it were these lines by Shelley:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"How beautiful this night!  the balmiest sigh<LB>Which vernal zephyrs breathe in evening's ear<LB>Were discord to the speaking quietude<LB>That wraps this moveless scene."<LB>"Heaven's ebon vault,<LB>Studded with stars unutterably bright,<LB>Through which the moon's unclouded grandeur rolls,<LB>Seems like a canopy which love had spread<LB>To curtain her sleeping world."<LB></HI>
058.sgm:</p><P>Evidently someone else had been enchanted with this spot, as was I.</p><P>There was a ranch and store, called French Corral, about 15 miles distant, where Lane had left our animals, but we never visited it until we left for good.  Since our mining was only moderately successful, when the first rains came we left hastily for French Corral.  We had been told that it was dangerous to remain in a canyon during the rainy season, as the river would rise from 20 to 40 feet in a single night--a wall of water which would sweep everything before it.</p><P>It was in this location that I made a remarkable find.  Some distance upstream from camp, a large rock in the middle of the river had roused my curiosity.  I determined to investigate it.  One Sunday, a day we always took for rest, I swam out to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:the rock and found on its far side a broad, flat surface, just above water line, with a round hole about three feet in diameter and about as deep.  Such a cavity, called a well-hole, is worn by the action of swirling, eddying water, aided by sand and perhaps stones.</p><P>This one was filled with gravel and small cobbles held together by rust.  I broke up the particles with my pick head and washed out nearly two ounces of coarse gold, all as rusty as iron.  It must have been deposited in its remarkable hiding place ages before.  Because it held great interest for me, I have kept some of it, along with my first clean-up on Lacy's Bar.</p><P>When Lane left us at French Corral, he started out to find my old bay, the horse we had abandoned.  Strangely enough he did find him, right where we had left him three months before, but now entirely well and fat as a seal.  We rejoiced, of course.</p><P>At French Corral we were told marvelous tales of rich diggings to be found about Deer Creek and Grass Valley; so we turned our steps that way--and found it to be the identical spot where The Parson had camped in August.  But what a transformation!  The beautiful vale was changed into a busy, ugly mining camp.  Nearly the entire valley had been dug over.  Shafts and holes were scattered over its once smooth grass surface.  A canvas town had sprung up amid the debris and ruins of Dame Nature.</p><P>The spot we had christened Grass Valley was now known as Deer Creek.<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
058.sgm: At least 2,000 miners were now at work in the neighborhood.  It was one of the richest camps ever known.  Millions had been taken out.  All the creeks, gulches, and dry watercourses were found to be immensely rich, and the country for miles around had been taken up in claims.  We were told that The Parson's party had carried away a fortune, and we were shown holes 50 to 100 feet square where from 50 to 100 pounds of gold had been taken.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">And now again as Grass Valley.--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058.sgm:<P>Over this untold wealth we had passed without a suspicion of the precious deposit literally under our feet.  We had left the golden bed to tramp weary miles, to toil and slave out of sound of fellow man for an ounce or two a day!</p><P>To say we were heartsick, discouraged and bitter at our ill <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:, then lying at Sacramento, to complete his apprenticeship with the New York pilots.  As his leave had expired, he resolved to return to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:something definite after the wild goose hunt in California.</p><P>He and I owned seven animals over in "Boston," and he suggested that I buy his interest for six ounces of gold.  I replied that I was done with horses and mules and never cared to see another, that he could have my half to do with as he pleased.  He persisted, and the upshot was that he talked me out of the six ounces.  Even "Big Bay," the horse we had abandoned and then rescued, and of which I was very fond, I abandoned again.  Hard times make hard decisions.</p><P>Meantime, poor Captain Simmons had contracted poison oak to a serious degree.  His body swelled so badly that on our return to Sacramento we found him at death's door.  Making a bed of boughs and brush in an oxcart, we placed him in it and shipped him to Sutter's  Fort for medical treatment.</p><P>Michael Fitz Simmons must have been born under an unlucky star.  Though I never saw him again, I learned that he prospered for a time in San Francisco, where he bought up all the deserted whaleboats in the bay and then rented them out.  Bad luck trailed him, for the first norther of the winter knocked his boats into splinters on the rocks off Clark's Point.</p><P>Later he went to Sydney, purchased a cargo of potatoes and returned.  On the very day of his arrival home, in an altercation with the ship's surgeon, he was stabbed to the heart and instantly killed.  So ended the fantastic career of a colorful old salt.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter 3</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>THE MORNING FOLLOWING Dan Lane's departure for New York, I purchased the <HI REND="italics">Gazelle</HI>
058.sgm:, a schooner of 160 tons, for $6,000.  As I had only 125 ounces of gold ($2,000), I was obliged to take two partners, Daniel and Orlando Stoddard, brothers, and they provided most of the remainder.  On the deferred payments we were to pay interest at 10 per cent per month.  On this ship I would be at home, on "solid ground," in my element, though the deck floated on water.</p><P>We made a trip to San Francisco Bay and returned with a full cargo.  We netted $6,500, and this within three weeks' time--which, in our opinion, was better than mining.</p><P>Another thrill at this time was finding, while wading knee-deep in mud on Front Street, Sacramento, an old schoolfellow, Hooper Sheldon.  We took him to San Francisco in our boat.</p><P>Not all trips in the <HI REND="italics">Gazelle</HI>
058.sgm: were so fortunate.  In  fact, our experiences discouraged us.  It rained every day.  Our cabin was drenched, as were our clothes.  We worked like galley slaves, night and day, till all of us were suffering from fever and ague.  The surprising thing was, not that we were sick, but that we survived the hardships and exposure of that rainy season.</p><P>"Stuck on the hogback" was a common experience for those ships plying between San Francisco and Sacramento, for both "windjammers" and steamers carrying mail and the wealth of the mines ran onto the sand bars in that old river.</p><P>An experience around Christmas, 1849, and New Year's, 1850, will illustrate.  I had taken on a load of wood on the American River, and because of rising water (it rained incessantly) was obliged to drop down off Sacramento, where I came to anchor about sunset.  I saw the town adrift and afloat.  Some shanties were capsized, floating at angles through the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:streets.  Masses of people were crowded into boats, or were floating on such makeshift rafts as were available, heading for the natural levees along our inland streams.</p><P>I took a boat for the shore and had no sooner reached there than I was nearly swamped by desperate people wading through mud and deep water to reach the boat.  The river bank was piled with boxes and bales of goods of every description.  To add horror to the scene of general misery, half the population were victims of hunger and the ever-present sickness, dysentery, and death was taking a large toll.</p><P>Three times I attempted to land, and each time was nearly swamped by the rush of frantic people for the boat.  When no more could crowd in, some of them even clung to its sides.  I abandoned the idea of landing, upped anchor and drifted away in the darkness from the heart-rending scene.  Our decks were overloaded by those who scrambled aboard and by our freight, which covered deck and hold, leaving no accommodations for passengers.  Nor were we provisioned for any extras.</p><P>Just before daylight, Christmas morning, I drifted broad-side onto an island, covered with tall sycamore trees, that stood at the head of the slough.  (No vestige of such an island has been visible for many years.)  Our vessel was drawing 12 feet of water, and we were broadside to the tide, which was running fast.  Our hold and deck were filled with wood, except for an opening for the man at the wheel, and our small cabin was crowded with passengers with neither food nor bedding.  We discharged the deckload of wood, giving some relief to the passengers if not to the vessel</p><P>That afternoon the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
058.sgm: from New York, making the trip from San Francisco to Sacramento, while attempting to pass, was borne down upon us by the irresistible tide of the main river.  Our jibboom rammed her wheelhouse full length, snapping off at the bowsprit cap, winding her foretopmast stay around the wheel shaft of the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
058.sgm:.  The topmast bent like a whipstaff and was carried away at the masthead.  It described several circles in the air, passed outside the main rigging and descended end foremost through the companion hatch, remaining upright in the cabin deck.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:At the moment of the crash, a passenger saved himself from instant death by a jump from the cabin.  It was fortunate that no one was injured by the freak accident.</p><P>The next day, as if to add insult to injury, the steamship <HI REND="italics">McKimm</HI>
058.sgm: (Captain Farnam of New Orleans), on her first voyage, with passengers for Sacramento, had no sooner poked her nose out of the slough into the main river than the strong tide caught her and bore her down on top of us.  She cleared by taking all the stanchions clean from the waist to the knight-head.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">McKimm</HI>
058.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
058.sgm: attempted to pull us off the next day, but, after twice parting the cable, gave it up.  The situation was gloomy.  Short on grub, long on water, fast on an island!  A view from the crosstrees showed the great, angry river bearing down upon us with the wreckage that accompanied such floods: trees, whole shanties, lumber, dead animals, everything that could float.  A little to the west was the yawning opening of the old river, and between, a dense thicket of tule grass, covered as far as the eye could see with a seething, roaring waste of water.</p><P>After we had discharged most of our cargo, the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
058.sgm: made a final and successful attempt to pull us off.  It was then New Year's Day--1850!  Two days later we landed at Benicia, the first bit of terra firma we could reach.  There I landed most of my uninvited guests, some 50 or 60 as forlorn-looking wretches as ever walked ashore in a mud bank.  Some never survived their experience.  One of the passengers, a Mr. Hutchings, who had become a mere bundle of bones, I put on board the <HI REND="italics">Mary Ellen</HI>
058.sgm: in San Francisco Bay.  The wood I sold for $40 a cord.</p><P>In later years I met Mr. Hutchings several times and we talked over our experiences on the Sacramento.</p><P>At sea there is something sublime in riding out a storm.  The cockleshell that man has presumed to thrust between the great forces of nature and himself would seem to be utterly crushed and overwhelmed by the warfare of the elements raging around it.  Nevertheless, man and his cockleshell generally manage to pull through.  This experience on the river, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:the constant rains, were to some extent ill with fever, ague and dysentery.</p><P>I had experienced such rains, floods and mass evacuation in my shipping on the river the winter previous, but being at sea I did not know at that time (1850) that it was here that my father, Charles H. Ellis [See <HI REND="italics">California Gold Rush Voyages</HI>
058.sgm:, Huntington Library Press, 1954], died of cholera at 44 years of age.  He and his brother Russel, trading in and out of Humboldt Bay, were caught in that evil tide.  Uncle Russel cared for my father and escaped the disease.</p><P>On my return to San Francisco another uncle and his son succumbed to it.  It took me all day to get through the sand roads to the graveyard and return to Bay State Row.  The burial ground on Market Street where the City Hall now stands (1904) was full of water.  Uncle Thomas built Bay State Row, but Ellis Street is a better memorial to the Clan of whom there were many who came to California.</p><P>I decided to return to the sea, with its fascination and its good returns for one's labor.  My years of experience from boy-hood up had taught me that freighting by water was the cheapest kind of transportation and that there was money to be earned as long as there was freight to be moved and as long as supplies were the dominant need in this undeveloped country.</p><P>And so I turned my eyes to the trade of the Coast and the Sandwich Islands.  Ports in Mexico, on the Gulf of California and in Lower California were readily accessible and offered various products for export which were needed in the Gold Rush days.  So after buying the brig <HI REND="italics">John Dunlop</HI>
058.sgm: from Mr. Morris and Lieutenant Blair, I made voyages to Cape St. Lucas, San Jose, Loretta, San Blas, Guyamas, and Acapulco, and longer ones to the Sandwich Islands.  I remained in this shipping business till 1854.</p><P>My cargoes were varied: Passengers, shipwrecked crews, provisions (from onions and potatoes to flour, spice, coffee and sugar), even cats!  I shall tell about the cats later.  Off Monterey, on one voyage, I picked up many bags of flour, jettisoned, probably, but good for immediate use.  In my own vessel I was most successful in this coast and island trade, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:but investments with others proved my undoing.</p><P>Excerpts from a letter I wrote my mother from San Francisco on October 28, 1850, will tell of other experiences which quickly matured a 21-year-old boy:</p><P>"After a voyage of three months, I arrived here yesterday, from Oyster and Markie Islands in the South Pacific, with a cargo of fruit, pigs, poultry and other products too numerous to mention.  I wrote to you after my voyage to the Sandwich Islands, but did not inform you of this voyage, thinking it might worry you.</p><P>"Yesterday, the day we arrived, was a day of great celebration, marking California's admission into the Union as a state.</p><P>[Note--After President Fillmore signed his approval of statehood for California, September 9, 1850, the news did not reach San Francisco for over a month.  Signal arms on Telegraph Hill announced the coming of the mail steamship <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
058.sgm:, which fired salutes as she entered the bay.  The populace turned out in an uproar. Bonfires were lighted on the hill, Rincon Point and the islands, and cannon roared all day.  A grand ball climaxed the celebration.]</p><P>"It was as grand an affair as I ever beheld, equally as interesting as any Fourth of July I ever witnessed, but I have not time to give you all the particulars.  I refer you to the public  journals.</p><P>"The day closed mournfully enough, and it was my painful duty to assist saving survivors of a terrible catastrophe.</p><P>"About five o'clock in the afternoon, I was standing on the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
058.sgm: with some friends, when we were startled by an explosion near us.  Cannon had been firing all day and it still kept up.  In half a minute came the cry 'A steamer has blown up!' from every quarter.  We hastened to the scene of the accident at once, and, oh, horror of horrors, the sight which presented itself baffles description.</p><P>"The steamer <HI REND="italics">Sagamore</HI>
058.sgm:, about the size of your Kennebec steamers, crowded with over 150 passengers, was leaving the dock for Stockton when the boilers burst.  The boat was splintered to atoms and sank to the bottom, leaving the water dyed with human blood, and dotted with arms, legs, and trunks of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:bodies.  Horrible sight!  My companion and I took my boat and assisted in saving survivors, four men and two ladies, all of whom were injured.  One man said that he had been blown ten feet in the air; another was blown through the cabin window; many were scalded on faces and exposed parts of the body.  It was supposed that 50 were alive and 30 injured.</p><P>"Darkness closed over the scene before all was over and the human fragments gathered into barrels.  I hope never to behold again such a sight, but am thankful that I was made an instrument to assist the survivors.  One man had embarked on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
058.sgm: two days before and she had gone to the bottom, no one knowing how many lives were lost.  He tried again on the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
058.sgm:, and within five minutes he had been hurled through the air to land unharmed on the dock!</p><P>"I am sorry to inform you that cholera has made its appearance in our state.  There are a few cases in our city, but it can never obtain a strong hold here, because of the strong daily sea breezes."</p><P>During my voyages I met with many interesting and sometimes dangerous experiences.  It was in 1851 that I took a party of passengers, including a tough lot of miners 'tween decks, 45 in all, to Mazatlan.  They were mostly Southerners headed for Texas by way of Mexico.  Arriving at Mazatlan, we found that cholera was raging.  The wheat crop in the State of Sonoma had failed and famine was abroad.  In its wake thousands of victims died of the plague.</p><P>My passengers were imprudent, indulging in excesses of many kinds.  As a result, 17 of them died before the party left the plague-stricken city, and probably more died before they got home.  I had an attack myself.  While I was confined to my room in the home of Dr. Bevans, to whom I had brought a cargo of drugs, news of the number of dead gathered from the streets, and of the deaths of my passengers, would be brought to me daily.  Dr. Bevans was an old mountaineer and trapper who had settled in Mazatlan 25 years before.</p><P>Ned Bevans, a nephew of the doctor, was very ill and given up by the doctor, for after the cramps had subsided he collapsed. But after the doctor's aide had poured a bottle of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:I helped recover the last oar.  But when I reached shore, reaction set in.  My legs refused to bear me, and it was some time before I recovered from the shock of my narrow escape.</p><P>In the same year, 1851, I was lying in the harbor of acapulco when word was received of the wreck of the <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
058.sgm:, one of the Vanderbilt Nicaraguan steamship line.  I was chartered by Clapp &amp; Co. to go to the rescue of Captain Blethen and his passengers.  The ship was reported to be lying about 10&deg; south of Acapulco.  This information proved to be wrong, but on the strength of it I sailed nearly to the Gulf of Tehuantepec.</p><P>The fact was, the <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
058.sgm: had gone ashore about 50 miles from the port, and, as the coast tends sharply to the east there, I passed her the first night out.  Returning, we found her, but by that time the passengers had gone to Acapulco by shore. I returned to port and fitted my brig for passengers.</p><P>On the beach lay an abandoned bark that had been built in and had sailed from Cincinnati, down the Ohio and the Mississippi, through the Gulf of Mexico and around South America.  She was the only ship that attempted that route from so far inland, a long passage.  After touching at Panama, she was 90 days making Acapulco.  As she was not coppered, she had been eaten badly by teredo worms, and of course was leaking badly.  Also, she was out of water and provisions. A floating coffin, she had lost a third of her crew and passengers during the voyage.</p><P>From this wreck I took mahogany ceiling planks and fitted up berths and water tanks.  The water in the tanks became bad and caused some dysentery, but "Dr." Jaby Waters and the medicine chest patched them up, and we lost none of our passengers en voyage to San Francisco.  On the other rescue ships there were a number of deaths.</p><P>(Jaby Waters was an old schoolmate.  He had lost one hand and was ill, so I took him along for his health.  The title of "Doctor" was my own idea.)</p><P>Ten days out, we were 10&deg; south of Acapulco, and this position becoming known to some of the passengers, they held the usual indignation meeting indulged in by landsmen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:There was a saying, "A people who can and won't trade must be made to trade."</p><P>Ten years' imprisonment, plus heavy fines, were the penalties imposed on a ship's master for smuggling.  The guilty parties, Schendorff, a Hungarian (who had picked up Spanish in a month's time), Campbell and Hogan, disappeared.  The latter went into Sonoma, Mexico, in the interior, and was never heard from again.  Hogan and the Hungarian were sent to prison in San Francisco.  Later, Schendorff, a hot-headed fellow, killed a Chinaman, Hop Ken, in San Francisco.  On one occasion I salvaged a cask of Jamaica rum, covered with grass and barnacles, from a derelict off the Mexican coast.</p><P>The brig <HI REND="italics">Fortune</HI>
058.sgm: was twice seized with a cargo of flour at San Jose and Mazatlan by English steam warships, but was released at both ports without trouble.</p><P>Like everyone else, I found the Sandwich Islands fascinating and the amphibious natives a curiosity.  Their water feats, of surf-riding, diving through the great rolling konas and from 100 foot cliffs into the sea, their sailing and rowing in their native dugout canoes with outriggers, were amazing.  My boat, swept by a kona onto a coral reef, had her bow stove in.  I had it repaired by Campbell of Lahina, the coffee port.  Campbell made a fortune there in sugar.  Later, in San Francisco, he was kidnaped and held four days.  His kidnaper was apprehended and sentenced to 20 years in prison.</p><P>While waiting for the repairs on my boat, I lost my watch in 20 fathoms (120 feet) of water.  It was recovered by one of the natives.</p><P>In 1890 I revisited the Islands with my daughter Lucy and identified old ports and scenes.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter 4</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>I HAD DONE well in my freight and passenger shipping, and now I looked forward to the time when I could return to Boston and claim the girl I left behind me.  But I could not follow the sea and leave her meanwhile in the rough, frontier city of San Francisco, with all its hardships.  Marriage would mean I must give up the sea.  I had attained one ambition:  I was master and owner of my vessel.  Why not pursue another ambition on shore, where I could have a family life?</p><P>So it was, in 1853, that I went on to Boston and married Elizabeth Capen.  Shortly after, we sailed for California on a long, hard passage with about 200 other brides and grooms, across the Isthmus via Nicaragua.  When at last we arrived in California, I sold my vessel, and with the money made some investments which proved to be unfortunate.  One of these was the building of a trading post at Humboldt Bay, from which we operated a pack train to the Trinity mines.  My partners were Captain Miller (who had sailed with me as mate, and whose daughter later married our eldest son, Harry) and Edward Sanger, another friend.</p><P>The failure of this enterprise, together with the rascality of another business associate, my partner in the transportation of stone from Monterey for the construction of Fort Point, San Francisco, crippled me financially, and induced me to make assignment to my agents, Mason, Durand &amp; Co.  I was left without a dollar, with a wife, and with a baby in the offing.</p><P>Though I had seen a competency melt away in a few months' time, my determination and energy were undaunted.  Since I had decided to live ashore, I fell back on first principles:  manual labor at whatever came to hand.  It was not easy.  Shore duties proved hard for me after spending all my time aboard ship for five years, and before that having stolen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:away to sea at every opportunity ever since I was 14 years old.</p><P>I worked in a lumber yard and a furniture warehouse.  I outfitted vessels.  I carried newspapers.  I did a little of everything, and my labor was well paid.  Three times I lost all I had accumulated, but through it all my wife and I were optimistic.  I just worked harder and longer.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
058.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">Mother often spoke of the times when the going was hard and the cupboard pretty bare.  "Several times your father picked up gold coins from the street," she told us, "and they were godsends indeed."  I do not remember that she mentioned the value of the coins, but probably it was not large.  Gold coins were common currency.  Silver dollars were unknown, and there was no paper money on the coast for many years.  Some of the $50 gold slugs of the period that found their way east were to many men strong inducements to join the gold-seekers.--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058.sgm:<P>In September, 1854, I wrote to my mother:</p><P>"On Thursday the 27th we met with an accident.  However, fortunately, no damage was done.</p><P>"Our house was being lowered to the grade of the street when the underpinning gave way, letting the house fall about eight feet into the street.  The house was smashed up, but Lizzie and the baby were not hurt in the slightest degree.  Lizzie was upstairs in her chamber, with the baby in her lap, just ready to put it into its morning bath, when the house fell. Lizzie was not a bit frightened, but took some pains and time to hunt up something to wrap up the baby.  And the baby did not even cry.</p><P>"We will not lose anything, for the landlord makes our loss good. About $50, furniture and dishes, all that was broken.  We will be settled in three or four days."</p><P>I will add this line written in another letter:</p><P>"Lizzie was not only perfectly calm, but on going to the door, she quietly asked, `Is anyone hurt?'  The workmen, frightened for her, were speechless with amazement."</p><P>Another incident proved me to be an amphibious creature, not to be drowned.  While I was stowing lumber in a scow alongside a large ship in San Francisco Bay, an unusually long board came over the side.  As I walked backward, stepping upon a single board, it snapped off and I went down the weather end of the lighter.</p><P>As the tide was running a strong ebb, I knew that if I failed to catch the end of the board when I emerged from under the lighter, I should be chilled to death before making <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:the nearest ship's cable to leeward.  All this, and more, passed through my mind in the half minute I was under water.  I was fortunate enough, however, to catch the lumber and scramble up in time for the next board that came down.  No one on board knew anything about my involuntary bath, nor was I any the worse for it.</p><P>Another time, in the Bay of Monterey, where I was loading stone for Fort Point, San Francisco, I attempted to land in a heavy surf in a yawl with four oarsmen.  I was steering with a long oar.  We were caught by an outer roller, and the boat fairly ended over, but without breaching to.</p><P>I came to the surface near Scotty, a beachcomber and one of the four oarsmen.  I asked him if we should make for the boat or the shore, but got no reply.  He was half strangled.  Realizing just then that a heavy roller was about to break behind me, I remembered my experiences on coral reefs and was afraid that I would be taken down by the comber and ground up on the bottom.  I let myself down, therefore, and the comber passed over me.  When I came out on the other side, I noticed that the distance between Scotty and me had greatly increased.  I hailed him again, and he told me to swim for the land.</p><P>Around my waist I wore a long Spanish <HI REND="italics">banda</HI>
058.sgm:, or silk sash, six or eight feet long.  One end of this sash got adrift and wound itself around my legs, impeding me greatly.  Meanwhile, too, I was repeating the process of letting myself down whenever a comber came upon me, and I was rapidly becoming exhausted.</p><P>I managed to get clear of the <HI REND="italics">banda</HI>
058.sgm:, my boots, and pants, but even then could make no progress toward the shore, for, though I was a good swimmer, the heavy undertow was taking me out as fast as I could swim in.  There I was, held in the outer rollers, exhausting my strength and realizing I could hold out but a short time longer.  When the next roller came I knew my only chance was to try keeping afloat instead of submerging, and let the roller push me toward shore.  This it did, but with such speed that I was half drowned when I finally got a footing, and when I got on shore I could not stand.  Scotty, who had reached shore long before I did, came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:to my rescue and supported me as I struggled toward solid ground.</p><P>I remember how troubled I was because my underdrawers were green instead of white.  Then the color faded to black, and I knew no more for the next hour.  The other three crewmen were never found.</p><P>It may be in order here to indulge briefly in a retrospect of the days of '49 and what followed upon the great tidal wave of the human sea that overflowed this then practically unknown shore of California.  I quote in part from an address I gave in 1894 before the Pioneer Society in San Francisco</p><P>"California came to us by the strongest of all measures, the fortune of war.  After our conquest of Mexico, we paid $15,000,000 for what belonged to us by the law of nations.  In the world's history no parallel case can be found.</p><P>"Since the migration of the Children of Israel, there was never such an exodus out of all lands as was seen in the year 1849.  Prior to that time, a few whale ships from Nantucket had made voyage to Yerba Buena, or San Francisco.  A dozen or two huts and two or three adobe buildings near the bay shore constituted the town.  Fifty years later that little hamlet had grown to a city of 350,000 souls, famous the world over.</p><P>"Marshall's discovery of gold set the world ablaze.  Ships from every port in the world poured their living flood upon the golden shore of California.  At one time more than a thousand ships rode at anchor in our grand bay.  Very few could get away, owing to the crews' leaving for the `diggins.'  Many of the officers also took French leave.  Many vessels were quite abandoned and many never left port.  Some were hauled upon the mud flats and converted into storeships, lodging houses, saloons, etc., as for example the <HI REND="italics">Apollo</HI>
058.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Tamaroo</HI>
058.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
058.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Susan Drew</HI>
058.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Euphemia</HI>
058.sgm: (later the prison brig, <HI REND="italics">Oporto</HI>
058.sgm: ).</p><P>"Later on, many vessels could be seen surrounded by streets, filled in by leveling the sand hills.  Never before was seen the spectacle of ships, other than phantom ships, looming up in the heart of a city.  Battery Street to this day is paved--not on the surface, but at the bottom--with hulls of vessels.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<P>"In 1851 I filled my water cask from the first artesian well bored in California, under the stern of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
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058.sgm:houses were Hell.  Their `ropers' brought in victims to be plundered and often murdered.  The Barbary Coast with its bawdy women, drinking, fighting, dueling, and gambling was a primary factor in the organization of the first Vigilance Committee.</p><P>"Hundreds of professional men were obliged to turn their hands to manual labor for the first time in their lives, and every man was as good as, or better than, his neighbor.  Preachers became waiters; doctors, cooks; lawyers, faro dealers.  Carpenters' wages were $15 a day; laborers', $10.  At night the entire population assembled at the gaming halls to enjoy fine music and to look up friends, but mostly to woo fickle Fortune.</p><P>"A band of ticket-of-leave men, or Sydney Ducks, from the convict settlements of Australia, together with criminals from all lands, organized for plunder.  They called themselves the `Hounds,' and later the `Regulators.'  All were public robbers, with their worldly estates on their backs-- and their purse was every honest man's pocket!  They paraded the streets with fife and drum, armed to the teeth, and they robbed at night.</p><P>"Their murders and robberies became so bold and freqent that the citizens called a meeting on the Plaza (at that time used as a corral, horse market, and general stamping ground).  They appointed my cousin, A. I. Ellis, sheriff with 230 constables under him. Many of the Regulators were arrested and put on board the warship <HI REND="italics">Warner</HI>
058.sgm:.  They escaped final punishment, for the alcalde was but a figurehead and there were no prisons.  The determined vigor of the improvised police force broke up and scattered the gang.</p><P>"That winter of '49 was very severe for rain fell in torrents and continuously.  Streets became quagmires.  Horses and mules were lost in the unfathomed depths of Montgomery Street."</p><P>This was the crude city where we were to make our home.  Come weal, come woe, I was henceforth to be identified with San Francisco. I believe I participated in, or was an observer of, all the major events of the exciting period of the city's great development. Moreover, as a member, and later Chief, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:of the San Francisco Police Department I was in a favorable position to know the inside story of much that went on.</p><P>It was in 1855 that I was appointed a member of the police force.  Since childhood I had been a student of men, and at last I had come into my own.  I could glance at a man and instantly note his characteristics of countenance, manner, dress, and carriage, and could recognize a person from his back as readily as from his face.  This was a valuable asset in the game I was to follow.  Long a reader of Charles Dickens, I had studied his keen analysis of character.</p><P>Early in my detective work a San Francisco newspaper said of me:</p><P>"Henry H. Ellis, one of the sharpest detective policemen of San Francisco, has recently unraveled a carefully conceived swindling transaction, greatly to the satisfaction of all honest men and the admiration of his friends."<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
058.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">Years later, in 1909, when my father died, another newspaper said of him:<LB>"He figured actively in most of the criminal cases, not alone in San Francisco, but also in all sections of the state and our neighbors both north and south and over our country.  That was at a time when crime and criminals were rampant and desperate, and officers were daily called upon to show the physical and moral stuff of which they were made.  It may be said that he helped build the state and was proud of the part he had played."--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058.sgm:<P>It was in June, 1851, before I had joined the police force, that the first Vigilance Committee was organized.  I had become a member of that committee, had participated in its activities, and had been one of the men who affixed their signatures to its constitution.</p><P>I should like to emphasize that the Vigilance Committees of 1851 and 1856 were not composed of ruffians.  On the contrary, their membership included most of the good, solid citizens of San Francisco.  The members were serious and thoughtful, and the committee activities were for the most part supported by the constituted authorities.  Indeed, during the existence of the Vigilance Committee of 1856, I was a member of the police force--yet was in full sympathy with the committee's objectives.</p><P>After my first appointment to the force, I did not have to wait long to see action.  In November, 1855, U. S. Marshal William H. Richardson was murdered by the gambler Charles Cora, but because Cora was wealthy and a man of influence, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:he was not convicted.  He was tried, it is true, but the jury disagreed, and he was returned to jail.</p><P>It was at this juncture that James King ("of William"), editor of the <HI REND="italics">Daily Evening Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm:, was murdered because of his criticism of the lawless elements of the city and his denunciation of corruption.  The murderer was James P. Casey, a corrupt politician whom King had attacked in his newspaper columns, revealing the information that Casey was an ex-convict from Sing Sing Prison.</p><P>The shooting of King--whose editorial courage had made him a hero--resulted in an immediate outburst of popular indignation.  Casey was hustled away to jail, and I was one of the officers delegated to guard him.  But the rapidly swelling crowd, intent on lynching Casey, made it evident that he would have to be moved to a better protected building.  We rushed him to the county jail, then placed ourselves on guard on the jail steps, where we were subjected to insults and threats from the mob.</p><P>In the midst of mounting excitement, the Vigilance Committee of 1856 was born and James King died, six days after the shooting.  His death intensified the resentment against both Cora and Casey.  They were tried before the committee, found guilty, and hanged--on the very day and at the hour of King's funeral.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter 5</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>THE 22 YEARS (1855 to 1877) that I spent on the police force were spectacular in the growth of the city.  The mention of a few case records will show the development in crime and the organizations formed to combat it.</p><P>When I joined the force it was a body of only 50 men; at my retirement as Chief there were over 150 regular police officers and 300 specially appointed men.  At no time was the force adequate to combat the depraved members of society who flocked to this haven of easy riches.</p><P>Let me try to give some idea of the range of cases I worked on.  I cannot include all; they would fill a volume.</p><P>"Theft" included everything from petty larceny to grand larceny, from pickpockets to horse thieves, from bank robberies to piracy; "Murders" everything from children to adults, in high and low places, on land and sea; "Confidence Games" everything from gold dust to gold bricks, embezzlement, forgery, and counterfeiting.  And always there was the "Chinese Question," a problem in murder, gambling, assault, theft, smuggling, prostitution, and disease.  A perhaps equally difficult problem was "Hoodlumism," which had grown with the years:  young scoundrels who defied the law and officers of the law, and who indulged in most of the crimes of the calendar.</p><P>It was into this maelstrom of ambition, despair, mental and physical disease, perversion and scum that I was launched at the age of 26.</p><P>Counterfeiting, forgery and confidence games of all kinds required more time, patience and skill to expose than did other crimes.  Many such were thrown into my lap.  I shall cite one case.  It became known to Chief of Police Burke that a quantity of bogus coin and greenbacks was afloat in San Francisco, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:contracted with Baker for $30,000 in $5 bills.  After this information had been given the parent bank in London, a cabled answer was received to seize everybody connected with the affair, together with all paraphernalia used.</p><P>Correspondence between Ah Tuck and No How King revealed the difficulties they had encountered in securing paper that would produce good impressions.  Finally they had brought paper from England, and also from there a machine that would do the work, the only machine in the United States being in official use in Washington.<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
058.sgm: Baker had wished to withdraw his contract, but under threat had to go on.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">The heading at the top of one of these letters is interesting:  "Eleventh day of eleventh moon, eighth of Tong-Chee."  In other words, December 8, 1869.--H.H.E.</NOTE>
058.sgm:<P>Shadowed by the police, Baker delivered to Ah Sam 1,242 counterfeit bills.  Ah Tuck appeared shortly, demanding the notes and copper plates and threatening to shoot Baker if he did not recover them from Ah Sam.  Whereupon Baker made his exit through a rear door and reported to the police.</p><P>While this was going on, Chief Crowley and I appropriated the first buggy we came to and followed Ah Sam to the place where the Chinaman lived.  Feigning sickness and ignorance of the English language, Ah Sam was stretched upon a bed.  A search revealed the notes hidden between sheets of fine rice paper.  Ah Tuck, awaiting Ah Sam and the notes, was easily apprehended.  Claiming he was a "very sick man," he was quite concerned because his clothes were "all aboard steamer," as indeed they were, and as Ah Tuck, also, would have been, had we not acted with alacrity at the right time.</p><P>Another clever theft concerned, not a gold brick, but a box of $3,800 in gold coin, shipped by the firm of Hop Yik &amp; Co. to a branch in Hong Kong, on the clipper ship <HI REND="italics">Sea Serpent</HI>
058.sgm:.  On opening the box at the port of consignment, it was found that it contained, not gold, but San Francisco paving stones.  Box and contents were shipped back to San Francisco, and the captain of the vessel, held responsible, was obliged to pay the loss of the $3,800.</p><P>For six months no light was shed on the mystery.  Officer Gammon and I were assigned the case.  Our newspaper advertisement for the identity of the drayman who had hauled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:watch on Second Street) prevented him from following Abraham Lincoln in March '61.</p><P>Such criminals challenged the San Francisco officers of the law.</p><P>There was one daring swindler named Veldhingsen who signed checks of from $350 to $450, forging the name of J. P. H. Gildermeister, Consul at San Francisco for The Netherlands.  All the checks were endorsed as partly paid, and this fellow had the audacity to send from Santa Clara by Wells Fargo Express for the collection of a balance of $40 from Gildermeister himself<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
058.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">Veldhingsen was a native of the Island of Celebes and was of Dutch extraction.  He was a penman by profession and while serving his prison sentence wrote personal cards equal to copperplate in their fine execution.  Among these papers I found one of some he had made with Father's name.--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058.sgm:<P>Seeking to avoid trouble with the police, Veldhingsen had shifted his base of operations from one suburban town after another, but I continued hot on his heels, and finally caught up with him on a country road, where Veldhingsen, to escape detection in a public conveyance, was traveling in a farmer's wagon.  I arrested him, took him to San Francisco, and helped send him to prison.</p><P>On another occasion the trail of a criminal who had absconded with a large sum of money took me into Utah.  After I had secured my man, I returned to California with him as my prisoner, only to encounter in Sacramento the most difficult experience of the entire chase.  Because the crime had not been committed in San Francisco but in Sacramento, the Sacramento police, as I learned, were out to take my prize away from me.  There was a considerable award involved in the capture, and there was also the prestige attached to the successful conclusion of such an important case.  Though the Sacramento police were my friends, I determined to outwit them.</p><P>As the stage on which my captive and I were passengers approached Sacramento, I concluded that my only hope was to put my trust in the prisoner.  I therefore confided to him my dilemma, assuring him that his best chance for a light and just sentence lay with the San Francisco police and courts.  To avoid capture in Sacramento, therefore, I urged the man to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:cooperate with me in a plan I had devised.  He was more than willing.</p><P>The prisoner left the stage before it reached Sacramento.  The plan was for him to hire a horse and thus proceed to a place below Sacramento.  There he would take a boat for the remainder of the trip to San Francisco, where I was to meet him.</p><P>Thus I arrived in Sacramento alone.  When I stepped off the stage I was greeted, as I had expected to be, by several of the Sacramento policemen.  With downcast countenance I remarked that the trip had been a hard one.</p><P>"But where is your prisoner?" asked one officer.</p><P>I shrugged my shoulders.  "Gone."</p><P>"You mean you let him get away?"</p><P>"Looks like it, doesn't it?" I answered.  Then, showing a little annoyance, I continued, "I don't want to talk about it.  So if you gentlemen will allow me to go to my hotel, I'll get some of this grime off my skin."</p><P>After thus eluding the Sacramento officers, I took the night boat, and finally arrived in San Francisco, anxious lest my prisoner not turn up.  But the man kept his word.  He arrived on schedule, and, being able to restore the sum he had taken (which I had secreted on my own person), he drew a comparatively light sentence.  Thereafter he regarded me as his friend.<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
058.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3">Father had the faculty of winning the trust of his prisoners.  He claimed he had never handcuffed a prisoner when in public.  He always appealed to the self respect of a man and was always ready to aid him.  To make good with a criminal record took more courage than most men had, said Father, but he would encourage them, nevertheless, and secure positions for them.--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058.sgm:<P>A similar case was a chase for a fleeing cattle-thief, which was written up in the Chicago <HI REND="italics">Lakeside Monthly</HI>
058.sgm: of July, 1872, under the heading, "A Bit of Early California," as follows:</p><P>"As fast as stage horses could travel, I took off for Salt Lake City.  A hunt in that city for an absconding cattle-thief convinced me that I had passed my quarry.  So I backtracked by next stage, which had but one other passenger, a well-built, intelligent young man.  The stage was otherwise filled with sides of bacon, with which we constantly fought as it slithered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:no gamble, he die!"  Their dens were far below the ground surface, with trapdoors and mole-like passageways for escape, which could not be followed.</p><P>Out of a force of 150 police, but 12 could be assigned to the Chinese quarter, and often these had to be withdrawn for some emergency elsewhere.  Nevertheless the police were accused of neglect of neglect of duty and disregard of our laws, "our fair city becoming a sink of corruption, a nursery of loathsome crime and practices most vile in the history of mankind."  When this diatribe was addressed to me (this was after I had become Chief) through the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
058.sgm:, I replied:</p><P>"It is probable that in area and population the Chinese quarter requires double the police force that would be required for the same area and population of whites.  It is difficult to be positive even on this point.</p><P>"They have to be protected not only from their own disorder, but from the equally disorderly whites.  It takes constant surveillance to keep the filth of the Chinese quarter down to an endurable limit.  Special police there detailed hire their own dustmen to remove rubbish and accumulations.  It is next to impossible to find out anything from the Chinese themselves."</p><P>Immigration was at its peak at the time of my service, and the Mongolian problem was a major nightmare.  Chinese were variously employed.  They were hard workers and served the public in many capacities.  With two huge baskets suspended from their shoulders, they were the street cleaners.  Carrying similar baskets, they were the vegetable, fruit, and fish vendors from door to door.  They did most of the laundry work, the law requiring that they work in sight of the public.  They could be seen through window or open door, sprinkling the clothes by blowing the water in a spray from their mouths.  In railroad-building, hordes of them did good work, under hard conditions.</p><P>Many were domestic servants, and very fine ones, if trained or experienced, outdoing the mistress in buying and managing kitchen accounts, as well as in cooking.  In some cases they became valued members of the household.  Such was the case with a connection of our family who had such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:a servant for over 20 years.  When illness and death came, the servant stepped in and shared the burden. In this particular case, "Charley" became assistant nurse, lifting and caring for a case of total paralysis as if it were his own mother.</p><P>Yet some of their cold-blooded murders and other crimes were terrible, for the Chinese devised devious ways with their special instruments for killing:  long knives, hatchets, and barbed leather, which in a single blow could rake a head or face, destroy sight, and disfigure for life.</p><P>Officer Rose and I cleared up several such cases of attempted murder, committed in order to rob the victims.  One of these was a young couple in Alameda who were slashed in their sleep at dead of night.  After failing in his attempt to secure the money (hidden under the mattress), the Chinese houseboy showed such horror and sympathy that he put the officers off his track for several weeks.</p><P>When he and his accomplice were finally apprehended, one newspaper said: "H. H. Ellis has been indefatigable in the search, and to him is due directly or indirectly all the credit for the discovery of the criminal."</p><P>In a case nearer home, a nephew, also a police officer, detailed for work in the Chinese section, was about to capture his man when the Chinaman struck at him with a long knife and laid bare his cheekbone, fortunately missing his eyes.  Ned carried the scar for the rest of his life, but the assassin paid for his crime.</p><P>The Chinese were expert thieves, burglars, and smugglers. Smuggling was the art by which they managed to get opium, and also prostitutes, into the city.  On one raid in Chinatown, five cases and 20 jars of opium were found, stolen from the ship <HI REND="italics">Reindeer</HI>
058.sgm:.</p><P>When the ship <HI REND="italics">Lord of the Isles</HI>
058.sgm: brought 1,012 more coolies into San Francisco, the anger of the people mounted to threats.  To cope with whatever unpleasantness might arise, I stationed a squad of men at the wharf and placed others along the route that the Chinese would follow to reach their quarters. Word had reached me that the Kensington Club of the Mission had assembled and were planning to march down to the steamer.  But though crowds gathered along the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:they presented to me a large document, expressing, in Chinese and English, appreciation and gratitude for justice done in their behalf.  Beautifully framed, it hangs in a conspicuous place among my lodge and other membership certificates.</p><P>In my contact with the Chinese in California and also abroad in their own country, I learned to admire the better class, and never have I had occasion to change my mind.  They were the embodiment of honesty.  Their word was as good as their bond.</p><P>At times, in my search for fraud and theft, I was obliged to turn from the land to the sea.</p><P>Once, news reached San Francisco of the wreck off Santa Cruz of the schooner <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058.sgm:, waterlogged and capsized in heavy seas, with two of her men washed overboard and lost.  Captain J. W. Swann reported that he, the first mate, the second mate, and the cook had landed in a small boat at Santa Cruz, and that the cargo of spirits (insured for $16,000) was floating on the sea in all directions.</p><P>On the day of the report, the <HI REND="italics">Mary Ellen</HI>
058.sgm: came alongside the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058.sgm:, attempting to tow her into Santa Cruz, but was unable to manage the waterlogged vessel.  The wrecking schooner <HI REND="italics">A. J. Wester</HI>
058.sgm: was immediately dispatched to Santa Cruz to salvage as much as possible of the cargo and the vessel, but found no wreck and no floating spirits.  Meantime Captain Swann had "found" the wreck and moored it off the mouth of the Salinas River.  Mr. Ringot, sent by the underwriters, got the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058.sgm: onto the beach and freed her of water, but found no trace of a cargo.  A few casks branded "Alcohol" lay on the beach, but contained only water.  The vessel was then towed to San Francisco for investigation.</p><P>Here is where Captain Lees and I came into the case.  A report which seemed reliable stated that the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058.sgm: had been seen near Drake's Bay, north of the Golden Gate, during the time she was reported absent.  The four officers of the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058.sgm: were arrested, and at midnight the <HI REND="italics">Waylander</HI>
058.sgm: carried Captain Lees and me to Drake's Bay.</p><P>Under Point Reyes we found a curious rock-bound cave, the entrance of which could be approached only with difficulty in the rolling surf.  In the upper part of the cave we found, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:covered with sailcloth, a part of the cargo of the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058.sgm:, 100 cases and 24 barrels of spirits, ships' stores, and ropes by which the cargo had been rafted ashore.</p><P>Captain Swann claimed that on her first attempt to sail, the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058.sgm:, after several days, had returned to port for some minor repairs, and that it was during that interval that a part of her cargo was removed and dummy barrels of water were substituted. She had been flooded by the removal of bolts in the casing of her centerboard.  Also, the masts had been removed in a crude manner.  She was seized as she lay at anchor, most of her cargo was recovered, and an attempt at piracy foiled.  The daring scheme would have netted the conspirators the tidy sum of $90,000, to be bled from the owners, insurance, customs, and underwriters.  Both insurance regulations and United States laws had been violated.</p><P>Almost as bad as the slayings of Orientals and whites were the cases in which ship captains would shanghai men from the San Francisco waterfront.  Because many men would desert ship in San Francisco to go to the mines, the captains were at times desperate for hands, and there were shore men who practiced a lucrative trade in capturing men in saloons, on the waterfront, or alone on the streets at night, drugging or crippling them, taking them aboard ships that were about to sail.</p><P>In one such case in 1869, a man named Charles Cahill mysteriously disappeared, leaving a family in great distress of mind and destitute.  It was thought at first that he might have fallen off the wharf where he was employed, but a cannon was fired over the spot and the area dragged without result.  Suspecting that Cahill had been shanghaied, the Chief of Police telegraphed to other ports on the coast to place them on the alert and wrote to United States consuls in foreign ports for the same purpose.</p><P>It was in Callao, Peru, that Cahill was finally rescued, after four months of enforced labor aboard the ship <HI REND="italics">Garibaldi</HI>
058.sgm:.  In San Francisco he had been walking along Davis Street on Saturday afternoon after work when he met two acquaintances.  After they had drunk together, Cahill became unconscious, evidently drugged.  When he came to his senses, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:he found himself at sea as a sailor on the <HI REND="italics">Garibaldi</HI>
058.sgm:. At Callao, the ship's captain, when confronted by the consul, released Cahill, but paid him nothing for his services.  He was given a free passage back to San Francisco, and there Officer Sallenger and I arrested the two who had shanghaied him.</p><P>In those days, Captain Isaiah W. Lees, whose name has been mentioned in these pages, was a central figure of the detective police.  Appointed to the force in 1853, he became assistant captain three years later and retained that position till the Vigilance Committee assumed control of government.  By the Vigilantes he was reduced to the rank of detective, but was reappointed to his former position by Chief Curtis.</p><P>I was a year older, and together we formed a team.  In 1866 Lees was appointed Captain of Detectives by Mayor Coon, Chief Burke and Judge Rix.  He followed me as Chief of Police.</p><P>As for myself I quote the <HI REND="italics">Evening Post</HI>
058.sgm: of November, 1874:</p><P>"Henry H. Ellis has regular features and dark whiskers and moustaches which entirely conceal his mouth.  His nose is somewhat aquiline, his expression is keen and searching, and from his sharp eyes nothing escapes detection.  He is methodical and stately in manner, uses enough words to convey his meaning and no more, and works on his cases so quietly that half the time his confreres never know what he is doing.  He is a prominent member of the Society of Pioneers.</p><P>"Captain Ellis is a native of Maine, a mariner by occupation, and before his connection with the police force 19 years ago had attained the position of master and owner of his vessel.  Captain Ellis' forte is the mysterious.  He is never so much at home as when gathering the disconnected details of a startling crime and weaving them into an unbroken chain of evidence.  Poisoning cases, in which analyses, motives, and doubts are mixed up in inextricable confusion, and which require the utmost precaution and ingenuity to unravel, are also among his strong points.  Much of his time is taken up with cases which never appear in newspapers."</p><P>A few years after my appointment to the force the following item appeared in one of the San Francisco papers:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<P>"Captain Ellis was appointed to the police force in 1855 and since then has filled the positions of license collector, deputy provost marshal during the Civil War, and deputy U.S. marshal under Marshals Raabe and Rand.  For the last few years he has been connected with the detective branch of the department, engaged in ferreting out and bringing to justice the perpetrators of some of the most extensive crimes committed on the coast.  Chief Crowley has appointed him bailiff of the police court, and the bestowal of this honor on one of the most popular and experienced men in the department will be hailed with general satisfaction."</p><P>On New Year's Day, 1866, this testimonial appeared in the papers:</p><P>"Officer Ellis of the San Francisco Police Detectives today received a magnificent badge of solid gold in the shape of a shield beautifully enameled and surmounted with a diamond-eyed eagle, holding a star in his beak.  This testimonial was given by the bankers of San Francisco in acknowledgment of valuable services rendered, and was manufactured to order."</p><P>Accompanying the badge was the following letter, engrossed on parchment, with the autographs of 16 bankers appended:</p><P>"We the undersigned bankers of the City of San Francisco take pleasure in presenting the accompanying testimonial, a gold star, to Detective Officer Henry H. Ellis as an expression of our high appreciation of the skill and industry he has displayed in the detection and conviction of various forgers and counterfeiters within the city in the last few years."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter 6</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>POLITICS HAS ALWAYS played a large part in municipal affairs, and San Francisco in the early days was no exception.  In 1875, after serving on the police force for 20 years, I was nominated for Chief on the People's Independent Ticket, and was elected on my record, the last Chief to be elected by the direct vote of the people.  "The Ring," as the political machine was called, temporarily lost out.  It was an advantage for me to be elected on an independent ticket, for I thus had no obligations to any member of the Ring.</p><P>When I was nominated, the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm: said editorially:</p><P>"Henry H. Ellis, our candidate for Chief of Police, is a native of Maine.  He is of the sixth generation of a race of seamen, and naturally took early to the sea.  He has filled every position on board ship, from boy to master.  He arrived in California in June, 1849, a youth of 20, and before he was of age was master and owner of a vessel engaged in the Island and Mexican trade out of this port down to 1854.</p><P>"He has during this time engaged in other enterprises.  In early days he was engaged with a partner, established a trading post at Humboldt Bay, and aided in building a pack trail to the Trinity mines.  They were among the first to take up and improve land in the same vicinity.  He has also been prominent in other industrial enterprises.</p><P>"He is the head of a large family, all born in this city, and is thoroughly identified with the city's material interests and prosperity in every way.  He is a man of good habits, character and repute, and has hosts of friends who have charged themselves with the task of electing him on Wednesday next.</p><P>"Ellis has been a member of the police force for 20 years continuously in this city.  He has filled all grades up to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:captain, and for many years he figured prominently in most of the cases of importance.  During the latter portion of the reigns of Crowley and Cockrill his duties have been of a more private character, and therefore he has not been so prominently before the public as formerly.</p><P>"His entire record in this city for 26 years, as a private citizen and officer, has been above reproach.  His capacity and integrity are undoubted.  He will make an excellent Chief."</p><P>Above this editorial appeared two scathing articles about the incumbent Chief and one of the candidates for Mayor, denouncing them as candidates of the Ring.  It was this opposition bloc which I had to fight.</p><P>To quote the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm: of February, 1876, only a few months after my election:</p><P>"Chief of Police Ellis entered upon his duties with a full understanding, from long practical experience, of the needs of the city in his responsible department.  It was anticipated that Mr. Ellis would make a good officer, and thus far he has realized every anticipation that was entertained of his sterling ability."</p><P>About the same time the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
058.sgm: made these comments on my work:</p><P>"The police department, which lately seemed to run itself (toward the ground), gives every indication of having a head.  The force had stagnated, and the moral scum which covered it is evaporating under the freshening breeze of business.  Chief Ellis is doing what a chief of police is supposed to be elected for--giving the affairs of his department his personal supervision and making that his exclusive business.  The effect is apparent in every direction.  Not a man on the force but is stimulated by his superior example, either to renewed effort or to mind his P's and Q's.</p><P>"The Chief yesterday made an order relieving the supernumerary force in his own office and on the harbor force, ordering them to report for street and patrol duty.  New assignments are intended to strengthen the street force in the western and southwestern sections of the city.  The changes caused a good deal of fluttering, but no doubt the policy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:of the new regime is `acquiescence or resignation, and no back talk'."</p><P>On my accession the police force numbered 155 effective men.  I did not contemplate increasing its number, but rather its efficiency.  I differed with the Mayor, elected at the same time, in his opinion that the special police, a force of 300 or more men, should be abolished, for to do so, I felt, would leave a vacuum not easily filled.  I promised that an earnest campaign would be at once organized against the hoodlums of the city, who actually were more troublesome than the older criminals.  Also I vowed that every effort in my power would be made to suppress gambling.</p><P>The many wharfs along the growing city front were intended at first merely to enable the deep-water ships to discharge their cargo.  Gradually, however, the piers, which were built wide for the purpose of loading and discharging cargo, were extended till they supported small shops and stores.  Open spaces in between were filled with refuse and sand from excavations, so that new land was created from Montgomery Street to the present Front Street.</p><P>In the early days these piers provided a covering for the poor, the criminal, the hunted.  They supplied even more--a playground.  "Wharf Rats" became a general name for the frequenters of this rendezvous, including children of tender age, hoodlums, and escapees from justice.</p><P>A reporter from the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm: made a trip with an officer through this subterranean area.  Taking bits of candles for light, they scrambled down the rocks at Union and Front Streets and beheld nothing but rocks and dull, repulsive, sluggish tidewater swishing about, bringing to light bits of broken bottles, iron, and refuse of all kinds.  Crawling and squirming some 200 feet from the water's edge, they came to an abandoned thieves' nest, with four crude coffin-shaped beds of stone filled with rice matting, and fastened to planks overhead a piece of coarse canvas, screening the lodgers from observation.  After his investigation the reporter wrote:</p><P>"Few will comprehend the extent and accessibility of the subterranean retreat along the city front.  Before the bulkheads were built, boats could be rowed up to a point on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:culminating in robbery and in many recent instances murder.  Aye, murder, for the pleasure of killing--as witness the unavenged Page, Taafe, and Earl.  The police are charged by the citizens and press with apathy or something worse.</p><P>"Professional thieves and burglars, as a class, are nothing when compared with these White Sioux, who are reared in the shadows of churches--outlaws that are like human wolves, hunting their prey in packs, more cowardly than the beasts they imitate in their bloody instincts.  They dare not attack a man single-handed, but in gangs they are devoid of shame, and know no mercy.</p><P>"From this loud-crying evil the reputation of our fair city and state is suffering abroad.  Our citizens have moved in the matter of the evil of Chinese immigration, and an able committee has laid the grievance before the government at Washington.  Both houses of Congress joined in appointing a commission of three members to come amongst us and investigate the matter, with the power and will to aid us to throw off the evil if we deserve any consideration.</p><P>"What showing can <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
058.sgm: make, what relief obtain?  None whatever if the hoodlum evil continues to overshadow all others.</p><P>"Good citizens are amazed at the merciless doings of these devils and wonder that they cannot be stamped out.  It is neither merciful nor charitable for parents to allow these young hoodlums to escape punishment.  On the contrary, it is both merciful and charitable to bring them to justice.  Many might be saved from a future career of crime, and parents might be brought to realize the dangers surrounding their sons, and so lift them out of the groove into which they have fallen and which leads to the penitentiary and the gallows.</p><P>"Every officer will understand that a record is being kept of the duty he performs.  The deserving of the department will surely be rewarded.  Dereliction of duty will also receive its deserts, but I hope there will be no occasion to record any instance of it.  One hoodlum of pronounced type--young or old--disposed of is of more importance than the capture of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:half a dozen ex-convicts.  You have filled the jail to overflowing, but the task is now to fill the House of Correction.</p><P>"It is much to be regretted that citizens too often are averse to giving testimony in cases where hoodlums are defendants.  In such exigencies it devolves upon us to swear to complaints and to bring the reluctant witnesses into court to testify.  Only last night a citizen was knocked down and robbed at the Mission by young hoodlums, and the act was witnessed by another citizen who refused to testify in the matter.  An officer swore to the complaint, the parties are under arrest, and the reluctant witness to the affair will be brought into court."</p><P>At the same time that I made the above statement to the officers, I appealed to the citizens to cooperate with the officers in breaking up this reign of terror by appearing as witnesses when called upon.  Without witnesses, the hoodlums could not be prosecuted.</p><P>Before my election as Chief, several papers had censured the police, and the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm: of November 24, 1875, on the eve of my taking over, criticized the outgoing Chief as unqualified for the office, as he had been a merchant before his election, with no police experience.</p><P>"In this respect," said the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm:, "the new Chief will be a great improvement.  He has for years been connected with the police department in various capacities.  He is an officer of experience and tact.  He will also be sure of support in the Police Commission for any changes in the discipline or organization that he may think it advisable to introduce.  He and Judge Louderback are representatives of the People's Party, and with them the removal of the police force from all political influences is a cardinal doctrine."</p><P>There were several administrative issues on which Mayor Bryant and I differed.  Possibly the most important was the special police force to reinforce the regulars.</p><P>Said Mayor Bryant:  "I shall oppose the system of special policemen and shall endeavor to have it abolished.  If any citizen wants an officer, let him send to headquarters and get one of the regular force.  There are some 300 or 400 of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:these special policemen in the city whose duties should all be performed by the regular force."</p><P>The opposing view is expressed in a newspaper article of the day:</p><P>"Chief Ellis, in his annual report, shows that the force, though far smaller in proportion to the size of the city it protects than any similar body of police in any other large city, has done more real work and under greater disadvantages than are met with in other places.  There are 154 names on the roll as against 2,159 in New York, 1,089 in Philadelphia, and 8,833 in London.  In the opinion of many persons in San Francisco, this city needs a considerably stronger protection in proportion to the inhabitants than any of these other cities.  Its criminal element is of a more desperate, aggressive kind and it has a vicious class almost peculiar to itself."</p><P>Again:</p><P>"Chief Ellis's system of grading the efficiency of his subordinates by the number of arrests made is a good one, although at times it has been abused.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
058.sgm: The Chief was compelled to resort to it on finding, when he assumed control of the force, that some of the names on the roll were credited with no arrests, a fact which indicated that these officers were not making themselves particularly useful.  When the record system was introduced, a gratifying improvement was noticed.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">This system had been vigorously opposed.--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058.sgm:<P>"Proof that the assertion that the police of San Francisco are as efficient an organization as can be found elsewhere is the fact that 50 per cent of property stolen was recovered and that the arrests per officer were 141 as against 37 in New York, 8 in London, and similarly small averages in other cities.  The force has been drilled in the use of the police baton, and the value of this instruction was demonstrated in the recent riots.</p><P>"Among minor improvements suggested by the Chief, we are glad to note that he recommends the adoption of a uniform of the style worn by the police of New York.  That which is worn here is about as ugly and as little adapted to its purpose as could be imagined.  If the police are to be uniformed at all, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:it should be in a distinctive way.  There is no special reason why the uniform should be hideous.</p><P>"There is no doubt that the usefulness of the force has been largely increased under the skillful management of Chief Ellis, whom the city has to thank for his painstaking and well-directed efforts to improve the force."</p><P>Politics ruled the municipal jobs in San Francisco, as in other cities; and of course with changes of administration, no continuity of action could be maintained, as the Chief of Police was elected every two years.  My predecessor, a business man, did not and could not bring to the office first-hand knowledge of criminal life as I, with my 20 years' experience, could.</p><P>Whigs and Democrats fought out their battles, and both had much to say of an administrator who had been elected by the People's Independent Ticket.  Even the new Mayor would not too greatly oppose the prevailing sentiment.  He was too shrewd to enter upon a course such as had wrecked a previous administration.</p><P>The Police Department is the test and standard of good municipal government.  As one newspaper article of the day expressed it: "Without a reliable system, very little can be effected, even by so competent an officer as Mr. Ellis."</p><P>In the preceding administration it would seem that there was little or no cooperation between the officers of the law and the courts.  According to Judge Louderback:</p><P>"Justice is nearly as bad as it was in 1856.  Then the Roughs had the city, and it was impossible to convict one of them.  Now the Gentlemen have the city, and all efforts to secure a conviction of anyone of that class are futile."</p><P>Public officials are ever under attack, even after they have retired.  In June, 1889, after a man named Rice had been killed by an ex-officer, the <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Evening Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm: carried an item to the effect that applicants for positions on the police force, "when Ellis was Chief," paid $500 each for appointments to duty.  I immediately wrote the following letter, which the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm: published:</p><P>"My term of office as Chief of Police expired December 3, 1877, and my associates in the Police Commission were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:Mayor Bryant and Judges Wright, Louderback and Farrell.  Police appointments were not sold during my term.  The person arrested for killing  Rice was appointed on the 4th of May, 1880, two and a half years after I ceased to be Chief of the department.</p><P>"You will understand that it is of grave concern to me that 12 years after I severed my connection with the department my name should be coupled with the disparaging rumors of nine years ago, and that through the columns of the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm: --a blow from an unexpected quarter.  Will you please give this the same publicity that was given the rumor?"</p><P>In reply the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm: said:</p><P>"We have to speak a good word also for ex-Chief of Police Ellis, and must say he was the best Chief that ever ruled in San Francisco or perhaps ever will.  He was a simon-pure American, and it was Americans who voted him in!"</p><P>Then followed a list of bosses, religious groups "and hundreds of others who have helped to make San Francisco a political Hell."</p><P>One of the important events during my period as Chief was the organization of the Safety Committee of 1877.  The story is told by William T.  Coleman in the <HI REND="italics">Century Magazine</HI>
058.sgm: of November, 1891.  Mr. Coleman had been chairman of both the Vigilance Committee of 1851 and that of 1856.  I quote from his article:</p><P>"For 21 years the good influence of the great Vigilance Committee (of 1856) endured.  Then came a movement in July, 1877, the importance of which has never been appreciated, either in California or elsewhere.  It was the direct out-growth of the railway strikes and socialistic agitation in New York, Buffalo, Pittsburgh, and other large eastern, cities.</p><P>"At first it was thought no outbreak would occur in San Francisco, even though the Chinese question was troublesome, but on July 23 Mayor Bryant and Chief of Police Ellis, having unmistakable evidences of very serious trouble, called on General McComb, Commander of the State forces, and requested him to hold his entire force in readiness to support the peace officers."</p><P>Fearing that the militia would not be able to cope with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm: of my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:term, when no favors were expected and the donors had no axes to grind.</p><P>Commenting on my retirement, the <HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
058.sgm: said:</p><P>"Mr. Ellis will be missed.  We never had a harder working or more able officer.  He will leave the force to his successor in a well disciplined and smoothly working condition.  There are still defects to be cured.  The special and substitute system is not a good one, and there is too much wire-pulling in the matter of appointments.  There are too many cliques, and there is too much diplomacy in retaining positions.  Still, these evils have been considerably mitigated lately.</p><P>"While we welcome the coming, let us also speed the parting guest.  Chief Ellis has stepped down and out.  His record is before the public.  While we have not hesitated to condemn some of his official acts, on the whole we are bound to credit him with having done his duty under very trying circumstances, in a dignified and successful manner.  This was especially noticeable during the July disturbances, an occasion that called for the display of executive qualities of the highest order."</p><P>I retired from the San Francisco Police Department unhappy in my relations with the professional politicians who surrounded me, but secure in the knowledge that I had done my job well and that my ability, integrity and industry were understood and appreciated by my brother officers and the citizens at large.</p><P>In a letter to my mother in November, 1877, before the expiration of my term, I tried in the following words to calm her anxiety, resulting from a misunderstanding of a previous letter:</p><P>"I had stated to you that, while Chief of Police, under the law I could not leave the state.  That is all.  Referring to it, you express the hope that I have `done nothing wrong.'</p><P>"No misfortune has overtaken me.  I voluntarily retire from office at the expiration of my term next month, after 22 years' service, with a clear and perfect record.  I declined a renomination on account of ill health, and other reasons equally patent.</p><P>"I retire with the proud consciousness of having done my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:whole duty, and leaving the department as its head and chief. 'Tis a matter of pride to me to say that in the various occupations in which I have been engaged I have always become the master.  Am I not my mother's son?</p><P>"As for committing a crime, with me 'tis simply a moral impossibility.  My affairs public and private are in a very satisfactory condition."</p><P>EDITOR'S NOTE:<LB>After his retirement Capt. Ellis lived for 32 years.  Though a sufferer from inflammatory rheumatism, he embarked in 1878 on a business partnership, joining an old shipmate, his mate when he was sailing the Pacific, in a hay, grain and feed business (Ellis &amp; Miller) at 21 Spear Street, San Francisco.</p><P>That same year he took a trip around the world with members of his family, and the following year revisited New England, where he busied himself acquiring family heirlooms.</p><P>On his return to California he built a new home in Sunol Glen which was thereafter to be the family seat and which became the major interest of his life.</p><P>Two more trips, one to the Hawaiian Islands and the other around the world, were followed by an appointment in his 70th year to a consular position at Turks Island in the West Indies.  The experience proved unpleasant, and he returned home after a year.</p><P>The remainder of his life was spent quietly.  He worked at his memoirs, attended numerous lodge and other organizational meetings, and managed his estate.  His death was on December 15, 1909.</p><P>Laurence R. Cook<LB><HI REND="italics">Occidental College</HI>
058.sgm:,<LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
058.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
058.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<P>INDEX</p><P>abandoned ships, 13<LB>Acapulco, 32, 36<LB>Ah Sam, 51<LB>Ah Tuck, 51<LB><HI REND="italics">A. J. Wester</HI>
058.sgm:, 64<LB><HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
058.sgm:, 69<LB>American River, 19, 26, 28<LB><HI REND="italics">Apollo</HI>
058.sgm:, 43<LB>Argentina, 9<LB>Baker, George D., 51<LB><HI REND="italics">banda</HI>
058.sgm:, 42<LB>Barbary Coast, 45<LB>Baron Forbes &amp; Co., 38<LB>Bay of Monterey, 42<LB>Bay State Row, 32<LB>Bear River, 19<LB>Benecia, 30<LB>Benecia arsenal, 78<LB>Bevans, Dr., 34<LB>Bevans, Ned, 34<LB>"Big Bay," 27<LB>Blair, Lieutenant, 32<LB>bogus bank notes, 50<LB>Booth, J. A., 53<LB>Boston, 3, 7, 15, 40<LB><HI REND="italics">Boston</HI>
058.sgm:, 8<LB><HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm:, 68, 69, 70, 74, 76, 77<LB>Burke, Chief, 48, 50, 66<LB>Butterfield, Major Roger, 14<LB>Brazil, 9<LB>British Columbia, 58<LB><HI REND="italics">Brontes</HI>
058.sgm:, 26<LB>Bryant, Major, 74, 76, 77<LB>Cahill, Charles, 65<LB><HI REND="italics">California Gold Rush Voyages</HI>
058.sgm:, 7, 32<LB>Callao, Peru, 65<LB>Campbell, Mr., 35<LB>Cape Horn, 7, 60<LB>Capen, Elizabeth, 3, 40<LB>Cape St. Lucas, 32<LB>Cape St. Roque, 11<LB>cargos, variety of, 32<LB>carretta (see <HI REND="italics">Spanish oxcart</HI>
058.sgm: ), 15<LB>Casa Grande, 60<LB>Casey, James P., 47<LB>Castro, Jose Marc, 60<LB><HI REND="italics">Century Magazine</HI>
058.sgm:, 77<LB>Chile, Government of, 5<LB>"Chinese Question," 48<LB><HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
058.sgm:, 61<LB>Clapp &amp; co., 36, 37<LB>Clapp &amp; Winslow, 38<LB>Clark's Point, 11, 27<LB>Cockney Jack, 55<LB>Cockrill, 69<LB>Coleman, William T., 77, 79<LB>Columbia River Pilots, 12<LB>"Committee of Safety," 78<LB>Convent Burial Ground, 12<LB>Coon, Mayor, 66<LB>Cora, Charles, 46<LB>Cornelius (White), 9<LB>Cortez, 54<LB>cost of passage to San Francisco, 4<LB>coyotes, 23<LB>Crawford, Robert, 49, 50<LB>crime in San Francisco, 48<LB>Crosby, Mr., 15, 16<LB>Crowley, Chief, 52, 67, 69<LB>Curtis, Chief, 66<LB><HI REND="italics">Daily Evening Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm:, 47<LB>Deer Creek, 25<LB>Democrats, 76<LB>Donovan, 53, 54<LB>Drake's Bay, 64<LB>Dublin paper, 24<LB>Ducks, 31, 45<LB>dysentery, 19<LB>earthquake of October, 1868, 54<LB>El Dorado, 44<LB>Ellis, A. I., 45<LB>Ellis, Charles H., 32<LB>Ellis, Henry Hiram, 8, 46, 53, 59, 62, 67, 68, 72, 75, 76, 77, 80<LB>Ellis, Russell, 32 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<LB>Emigrant Road, 18, 19, 20<LB><HI REND="italics">Euphemia</HI>
058.sgm:, 43<LB><HI REND="italics">Evening Post</HI>
058.sgm:, 66<LB>fandango, 7<LB>Farnam, Captain, 30<LB>Farrell, William, 49<LB>Fieldstead, the mate, 6<LB>Fillmore, President, 33<LB>Fitspatric, Henry, 59<LB>Fort Point, 40, 42, 49<LB>Fort Sutter, 18<LB><HI REND="italics">Fortune</HI>
058.sgm:, 39<LB>Foster's Bar, 19, 21<LB>French corral, 24, 25<LB>Galapogos Islands, 10<LB>Galveston, 8<LB>Gammon, Officer, 28<LB>Garabaldi, 65<LB><HI REND="italics">Gazelle</HI>
058.sgm:, 28<LB>George, the Englishman, 6, 7<LB>Gildermeister, J. P. H., 56<LB>Gill, James, 35<LB>Gilman, 15<LB>Goat Island, 79<LB>Golden Gate, 64<LB>Gold Lake, 17, 18<LB>Grass Valley, 25<LB>Guadalajara, 37, 38<LB>guanaco meat, 7<LB>Gulf of California, 32<LB>Gulf of Tehuantepec, 36<LB><HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm:, (see <HI REND="italics">William C. Haskstaff</HI>
058.sgm: )<LB><HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm:, crew of, 9<LB>Harding, Sam, 38<LB>Hayes, President Rutherford B., 78<LB>Hayes Valley, 72<LB>Higgins, Captain, 8<LB>Hoag, Caldius, 21, 26<LB>"hogback, stuck on the," 28<LB>hoodlumism, 48, 71, 72<LB>Hop Ken, 39<LB>Hop Yik &amp; Co., 52, 53<LB>Hounds, the, 45<LB>Humboldt Bay, 32, 40, 68<LB>Huntington Library, 7<LB>Huntington Library Press, 32<LB>Hutchings, Mr., 30, 32<LB>impressions of San Francisco on arrival, 13<LB>Indian village, 18<LB>Indians, killed by earthquake, 55<LB>Irwin, Governor, 78<LB><HI REND="italics">John Dunlop</HI>
058.sgm:, 32<LB>Johnson, George, 9<LB>Kennebec steamers, 33<LB>Kensington Club, 62<LB>King, James, 47<LB>King, Rev. Starr, 55<LB>Lacy's Bar, 15, 25<LB>Ladrone Islands, 12<LB>Lahina, 39<LB><HI REND="italics">Lakeside Monthly</HI>
058.sgm:, 57<LB>Lane, Daniel, 5, 12, 24, 26, 28<LB>La Paz, 35<LB>La Plata, 4<LB>llamas, 5<LB>Lees, Isaiah W., 49, 50, 53, 64, 66<LB>Loma Alta, 13<LB>Long Wharf, 37<LB><HI REND="italics">Lord of the Isles</HI>
058.sgm:, 62<LB>Loretta, 32, 38<LB>Los Angeles, 60<LB>Louderback, Judge, 76, 77<LB>Lower California, 32<LB>McComb, General, 77, 78<LB>McDonald, Henry Fitspatric, 59<LB><HI REND="italics">McKimm</HI>
058.sgm:, steamship, 30<LB><HI REND="italics">Mada Kay</HI>
058.sgm:, 13<LB>Mare Island Navy Yard, 78<LB><HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
058.sgm:, 34<LB>Market Street, 32<LB>Markie Island, 30<LB>Mason, Durand &amp; Co., 40<LB><HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058.sgm:, 15<LB>Mazatlan, 34, 35, 38, 39<LB>Mexican vaqueros, 18<LB>Miller, Captain, 40<LB>Miners' Bank, 44<LB>Marshall's discovery, 43<LB>missionaries, 21<LB>Missouri River, 17<LB>Monterey, 32, 40 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<LB>Monterey, Bay of, 42<LB>Montgomery Street, 45<LB>Morris, Mr., 32<LB>Moors, William and Daniel, of Waterville, 15<LB>Nantucket, 43<LB>new land created, 70<LB>New Orleans, 8<LB><HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
058.sgm:, 33, 34, 43, 44<LB>Nicaragua, 40<LB>No How King, 51<LB><HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
058.sgm:, 36<LB><HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058.sgm:, 3, 8, 7, 15, 72<LB>Nye, Neal, 7, 8, 9</p></DIV>
058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>opium, 62</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P><LB><HI REND="italics">Oporto</HI>
058.sgm:, 43</p><P>O'Rea, Paris, 38<LB><LB><HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
058.sgm:, mail steamship, 33</p><P>Oyster Island, 33</p><P>old slaver, 13</p><P>Pacific Mail Steamship Company, 79</p><P>Pajaro Valley, 60</p><P>Panama, 36</p><P>Parker House, 44</p><P>Parson, the, 21, 25, 26</p><P>Patagonia, 5, 8</p><P>Patagonian Governor, 7</p><P>People's Independent Ticket, 76</p><P>Pioneer Society, 43</p><P>piracy foiled, 65</p><P>Point Reyes, 64</p><P>Point Conception, 11</p><P>Point Famine, 5, 6, 7</p><P>Potrero, 72</p><P>prostitutes, Chinese, 62<LB><HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
058.sgm:, 80</p><P>Raabe, Marshall, 67</p><P>railway strikes, 77</p><P>Ralph, a German, 21, 22, 23</p><P>Rand, Marshal, 67</p><P>Regulators, the, 45<LB><HI REND="italics">Reindeer</HI>
058.sgm:, 62</p><P>Rice, Captain, 37</p><P>Richardson, U.S. Marshal William H., 46</p><P>Rincon Point, 33</p><P>Ringot, Mr., 64</p><P>Rio de Janeiro, 9</p><P>Rio Grande, 8</p><P>Rix, Judge, 66</p><P>Rogers, George, 9</p><P>Rose, Detective, 55, 62</p><P>Roughs, 59, 76</p><P>Sacramento, 3, 14, 18, 26, 28, 31</p><P>Sacramento River, 15, 26, 30</p><P>Safety Committee, 77<LB><HI REND="italics">Sagamore</HI>
058.sgm:, 33</p><P>sailors shanghaied, 71</p><P>Salico, Trellisfera, 35</p><P>Salinas River, 60, 64</p><P>Sallenger, Officer, 66</p><P>Salt Lake City, 59</p><P>San Buenaventura, Valley of, 54</p><P>San Diego, 60</p><P>San Francisco, 4, 7, 11, 12, 18, 28, 30, 32, 33, 36, 37, 38, 39, 41, 42, 43, 45, 48, 52, 56, 57, 58, 60, 62, 63, 64, 65, 68, 75, 76</p><P>San Francisco Bay, 11, 12, 28, 41</p><P>San Francisco Police Department, 46, 50</p><P>San Francisco, population in 1849, 14</p><P>Sandwich Islands, 32, 39<LB><HI REND="italics">San Francisco Evening Bulletin</HI>
058.sgm:, 76</p><P>Sanger, Edward, 40</p><P>Santa Clara, 56</p><P>Santa Cruz, 54</p><P>Santa Inez Mission, 54</p><P>San Jose, 32<LB><HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058.sgm:, 64, 65</p><P>Schendorff, a Hungarian, 39</p><P>sea lions, 5<LB><HI REND="italics">Sea Serpent</HI>
058.sgm:, 52<LB><HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
058.sgm:, 29, 30</p><P>sharks, experiences with, 35</p><P>Sheldon, Hooper, 28</p><P>Shelley, verses by, 24</p><P>Shoal Water Bay, 12</p><P>shanghaing of sailors, 71</p><P>sickness among the miners, 26</p><P>Sierra Nevada Mountains, 17</p><P>Simmons, Captain, 9, 10, 14, 27</p><P>Six Companies, 63</p><P>smuggling, 38, 60, 62</p><P>Society of Pioneers, 66</p><P>Sonoma, State of, 34</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:<P>Southern California, 54</p><P>South Fork, 21</p><P>Spanish oxcart (see <HI REND="italics">carretta</HI>
058.sgm: ), 15</p><P>sperm whales, 10</p><P>Steep Hollow, 18, 19, 23</p><P>Stockton, 33</p><P>Stoddard, Daniel and Orlando, 28</p><P>Straits of Magellan, 4, 15</p><P>Sturgess, Captain, 9, 11</p><P>Suisun Bay, 12</p><P>Summers, Captain, 27</p><P>Sup Lum Kee, 53<LB><HI REND="italics">Susan Drew</HI>
058.sgm:, 43</p><P>Sutter's Fort, 14, 23, 38</p><P>Swann, Captain J. W., 64, 65</p><P>Sydney, 27</p><P>"Sydney Ducks," 31, 45<LB><HI REND="italics">Tamaroo</HI>
058.sgm:, 43</p><P>Taylor, Zachary, 8</p><P>Telegraph Hill, 13, 33</p><P>teredo worms, 36</p><P>Tepic, 39</p><P>Thuller and Sanger, 37</p><P>Tierra del Fuegians,</p><P>Trinity mines, 40, 66</p><P>ticket-of-leave men, 31</p><P>United States Hotel, 26</p><P>Uruguay, 9</p><P>under-strappers, 5</p><P>Vanderbilt Nicaraguan Line, 36</p><P>Van Dieman's Land," 5</p><P>Veldhingsen, daring swindler, 56</p><P>Vigilance Committee, 45, 46, 47, 66, 77, 78</p><P>wages at Sacramento, 31</p><P>walking the plank, 10<LB><HI REND="italics">Warner</HI>
058.sgm:, 45</p><P>Waters, "Dr." Jaby, 36</p><P>Waterville, 15</p><P>Watson, Judge, 60</p><P>Watsonville, 60<LB><HI REND="italics">Waylander</HI>
058.sgm:, 64</p><P>Wells Fargo Express, 56<LB><HI REND="italics">Wester, A. J.</HI>
058.sgm:, 64</p><P>whalers, 10</p><P>"Wharf Rats," 70</p><P>Whigs, 76</p><P>White, Captain, 8, 9, 10, 12</p><P>"White Sioux," 72, 73</p><P>Whittlesay, 9, 11<LB><HI REND="italics">William C. Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm:, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14<LB><HI REND="italics">William C. Hackstaff</HI>
058.sgm:, crew of, 9</p><P>Winslow, Mr., 21, 23</p><P>Woolwich, Tom, 35</p><P>Wright, Judge, 76</p><P>Yerba Buena, 14, 43</p><P>Yuba River, 19, 21, 24</p></DIV>
058.sgm:<DIV>
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058.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Henry Hiram Ellis, last Chief of Police of San Francisco elected by direct vote of the people, 1875</HI>
058.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<P>MY BOYHOOD and YOUTH</p><P>By HENRY HIRAM ELLIS<LB><HI REND="italics">[Fifty copies of this section, containing information for family consumption only, were privately printed and bound into as many copies of the regular trade edition</HI>
058.sgm:.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PROLOGUE</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>"It's a girl, Henry!"</p><P>As the opening of the door and the announcement came simultaneously, Henry (my father) looked up from his reading with an expression of relief and pleasure.</p><P>"Thank the Lord for a change!" he exclaimed.  "Come in, Lottie, and tell me how Lizzie is."</p><P>"Lottie" ("Aunt Charlotte," father's cousin) came into the library.  She might have stepped from an Apache Indian tribe, so lithe, spare of frame and erect was she, with her deep-set dark eyes beneath heavy brows and her coal black hair combed straight back from a weather-tanned face.  But the smile and snapping good humor in her eyes and the contour of her head and face, revealed the New England strain of ancestry.  Dressed in a calico wrapper of no particular color, which hung "like a yard of pump water," to quote this nautical father of mine, Lottie nevertheless held one's attention by the grace and poise of body and the strength of her personality.</p><P>Clothes were of small concern to this seasoned pioneer, one of the brave women who came West with their men across the plains in covered wagons.  Indeed, she drove one of the four-horse teams, enduring the hardships and withstanding Indian attacks.  In one such attack, she thrust her four year old daughter between her feet, clamped a wooden water bucket over her head, and whipped her horses into a dead run to join the others.  Arrows penetrated the wagon side and cover but missed the driver and her child.  Aunt Charlotte was a wonder and inspiration to us children.</p><P>"Lizzie is doing fine, Henry," she answered, "and you have the prettiest baby girl you ever laid eyes on.  I haven't time to stop.  Lizzie will need me shortly, and I must look after the boys a bit.  They mustn't feel their noses out of joint because a baby has arrived, and a girl at that!  And be sure Henry, you remember that, too!"  With the timely admonition, father was left to himself for it would be indelicate for him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:Coit Tower now stands), and a street intersection was not the best location for a baseball diamond, but the steep ascent made slow going for two-wheeled carts loaded with coal, or for winded horses as they zig-zagged up Lombard Street, the only street available for residents of the Hill.  A few of the city streets were paved with planks or cobblestones, but not Lombard.  The heavy rains cut the yellow clay into small ravines, gullies, and holes which wore down somewhat during the long, dry season.</p><P>There were broad, planked sidewalks spiked down, but the worn planks and spikes, rising to menace shoes, the split and splintered wood and knot-holes, were a constant source of annoyance.  When the street was blasted for sewers and the boys dug in for forts and fights, a dynamite accident occurred.  When the warning signal sounded retreat, a neighbor boy was too deliberate and a piece of rock pierced his mouth and chin.  The wounded "hero" recovered, however, amid due sympathy.</p><P>To interrupt the games and call in the boys, every family used a hand bell and all knew each bell.  "There goes Johnsons', Efforts', the Ellis'!" etc.  and away they would run.</p><P>Meiggs Wharf was another rendezvous for the boys.  They might get a chance to go out on a fishing boat, and the sailors were a fascination as were the monkeys and other animals brought from far places.</p><P>One might say that the inhabitants of Telegraph Hill were as heterogeneous a lot as the Zoo of Meiggs Wharf, but we will say a cosmopolitan lot.  This was San Francisco.  The Irish Browns, the English Efforts, and the Welsh Jones were our closest friends.  My chum was born of a sweet Scotch mother and a dour Scotch father.  Gertrude stayed the night more often with me than I with her.  Breakfast was difficult enough at any time but a soup plate of oatmeal with <HI REND="italics">milk</HI>
058.sgm: and no sugar was too difficult for me.  Opposite lived a Spanish family, patrician descendants, grantees from the crown of Spain.  They retained their courtly manners.</p><P>Our neighbor on the south was a Slovene with an American wife.  It was she who lost her baby with diphtheria.  He was a wholesale fruit dealer, and both finely educated.</p><P>Below them, was a French-German combination, whose children I envied, for they spoke three languages, and employed three maids who spoke the three languages!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Waterville, Maine, 1850.  Birthplace of Henry Hiram Ellis, 1829.  (House with cross</HI>
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058.sgm:half-yard.  Always there was a dog, if only a mangy stray off the street.  One day, when Mother was resting quietly on the lounge, the menagerie owner came into the room with a shaggy bundle in his arms:  pleadingly he asked, "Please, Mother, mayn't I keep this billy goat, Johnny says it will give milk in a year?"</p><P>Rising to her feet, no longer indisposed, Mother exclaimed, "No, run find that boy, tell him we will have no billy goats, milk or no milk!"</p><P>Still reminiscing and musing on the years to come, "I must make some memoranda for my book," says Father, "for already in the twenty years, many interesting experiences are dimming in memory's chamber, and I want to leave the story of my life to my children."  And so began the accumulation of notes that at odd moments and on odd scraps of paper, were jotted down.  It is from those notes, I have woven Father's life story.  Now, for the major part of this book, he will tell his own story.  I gladly yield the stage to him.</p><P>LUCY ELLIS RIDDELL<LB><HI REND="italics">Casita de Loma Vista</HI>
058.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Altadena, California</HI>
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058.sgm:<HEAD>MY BOYHOOD AND YOUTH
058.sgm:<LB>By HENRY HIRAM ELLIS</HEAD><P>1829--A small craft is launched, and sails through home waters with toil and poverty, imagination and determination.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Poverty for a boy is his best inheritance; that is, if he has ambition</HI>
058.sgm:."</p><P>I had both, yet I write of myself with some misgivings, for I have limited ability and less education.  My active, adventurous life has been successful because of the principles I believed in and practiced, and I hope my descendants will find the story interesting and helpful.</p><P>My birthplace was a small community of old English, French and Scotch families, set off and incorporated in 1802, from Winslow, Maine, which was settled in 1754 by Captain John Winslow.  He built Fort Halifax (a block-house of huge logs) as a defense against the Indians, at the junction of the Kennebec and Sebasticook rivers.</p><P>Mother's ancestors, Nehemiah Getchel and Asa Redington, were early settlers.  They built a dam and double sawmill on the Kennebec and began lumbering from the magnificent primeval forests of hard woods which covered the country.</p><P>Redington had been a Revolutionary soldier, and Getchel a guide for Benedict Arnold's ill-fated expedition up the Kennebec and Chaudiere rivers--the attempt to bring the French to our side in the war.  Poorly equipped and trained, battling blizzards, icy waters and starvation, they failed.  But it was a bold, heroic move for a man who later betrayed his country.</p><P>Our little home was built on the brink of Power's Hill, overlooking a depression, which had been a sort of bay, where, it was claimed, Arnold had built and repaired some of his canoes.</p><P>Another ancestor, Mother's father, James Crommett, was a deserter from the English ranks in Quebec.  To lose his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:the world by my own unaided efforts.  I took on heavier duties, but above all I was still a schoolboy with abounding life and the urge to play.  Teddy Roosevelt once said, "No boy will be much of a man unless he is a good deal of a boy."  I fear I was too much of a boy to be a good deal of a man, but my ambition knew no limit.  I disilke to enlarge on my boyhood exploits, but to suppress them would be like <HI REND="italics">Hamlet</HI>
058.sgm: with Hamlet left out.</p><P>I went to school in winter, but was "bound out" on Clifford's farm in summer for $2 a month.  I became inured to hard labor, breakfast and supper by candlelight, labor in the fields all day, milking and care of stock by lanternlight.  I would go to bed dead tired.</p><P>I fell off the rack of hay one day and broke both bones in my left arm.  I was most impatient at a delay in my work of 10 hours before it was set.</p><P>Out of school hours in winter I did chores for Mother, some of which were not easy.  I banked the house with snow for the winter, tunneled through drifts which sometimes reached the eaves of our little house to make exit to the outdoors, and brought all water a distance of two blocks in summer heat and winter bitter cold, in buckets suspended from a wooden yoke on my shoulders.  I chopped wood, I hauled grain to the mills, returning with slabs, lumber or edgings to be sold, and on Saturdays, when farmers brought produce to town, I would make a stand opposite our house on Silver and Main Streets and help with their sales.  When Mother's grain was milled, she had it separated in the bag.  Flour, midlings (graham) and bran, all were utilized.</p><P>Our yellow school building on the Common had a little portico over the entrance about the size and shape of a schooner's galley, and within, near the entrance, was a huge fireplace with big iron dogs.  The room was black with smoke and age.  Near the fireplace was a huge desk which would hold three boys.  I knew, for once I was locked in it during the lunch hour for some misdemeanor, I doubled my knees under me, when the coast was clear, heaved up and split the top.</p><P>[Father must have been difficult for the teacher, who was his cousin, Rebecca Ellis.  We have a tiny pipe carved from a knot in his desk in this same schoolroom.--L.E.R.]</p><P>There were two meeting houses in the village, a Baptist and a Universalist.  Mother belonged to the former, which was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Coat of Arms of the Capen Family</HI>
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058.sgm:the teeth and sold the silver.)</p><P>I loved trees to the point of adoration, caring little for short-seasoned flowers.  One Sunday I dug from a swamp, and carried home on my back, two elm trees the size of walking sticks and planted them in Mother's yard.  Thirty years later I had the surviving one cut down and sawed into planks and joists at Uncle Thode's mill--a great concession on his part, for the trunk was full of knots which did much damage to the saws.  I fear Uncle Thode did penance for many years for the picturesque profanity that sounded through the old mill while my elm tree was being processed.</p><P>The town refused to take the lumber on the docks, so Cousin Charles Crommett stowed it in the top of his barn, where it remained several years.</p><P>When again I visited Mother, I had it shipped for a Cape Horn passage on the main hatch of the ship <HI REND="italics">Farnham</HI>
058.sgm:.  The Captain refused at first to ship it as freight, but I found that he had a tender place in his heart for family relics, and I worked that interest to good purpose.  We compromised and I saw the lines made fast to the deck ringbolts to secure its passage on deck.</p><P>Of all the wood I know, elm is the worst for twisting and warping, and when my tree arrived in San Francisco it looked like a bundle of snakes.  The West Coast Furniture Co.  (one of W. C. Ralston's enterprises) accepted my order to make it into a piece of furniture.  A cold water bath soaked out the salt, followed by a steam bath to straighten the lumber.  Finally it was kiln dried.  The result from their shop was a beautiful sideboard which has never sprung or warped in the least.</p><P>On a piece of oak from the ship <HI REND="italics">Kearsage</HI>
058.sgm: is the family coat of arms, mounted atop the center cabinet, a piece of walnut from the frigate <HI REND="italics">Constitution</HI>
058.sgm: records the family motto.</p><P>The most gratifying fact of the whole operation is that the San Francisco police force, hearing of the enterprise, took it out of my hands.  As I was then no longer a factor in that organization, it was a compliment to me and my work when I was its chief.</p><P>Heirlooms were always fascinating to me, and I gathered many for our home when visiting our ancestral dwellings.</p><P>Rummaging through the garret of the Ellisville home near Plymouth, Massachuetts, I found an old dilapidated maple chair.  It was made with rush bottom, one corner in front, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:and my destiny.</p><P>Privation at the outset of life teaches self reliance.  I was to become a shipmaster, and I held an undefined idea that it was but a ladder to attain better things.  But I had to bide my time, earn money, help Mother, and get on with my schooling.  I attended the Academy and the Institute for short periods, paying some of the cost by "firing" and cleaning the building (janitor service).  There I made more progress in a short time than I made in all the winters spent in the yellow schoolhouse.</p><P>About this time I consulted my Uncle William, who had been a seaman, about going to sea.</p><P>"Go to Boston," said he, "and if you behave yourself, you may in time, and with good luck, become a coachman."</p><P>"A coachman!" I, who had dreamt of enchanted isles in the Southern Seas and of wealth untold! No doubt Uncle William was honest, but he had no vision!</p><P>Failing to gain Mother's consent to go to sea, I planned to escape.  Packing my few belongings in a little hide-covered trunk, I consulted our neighbor, Captain Jewell of the <HI REND="italics">Titanic,</HI>
058.sgm: but did not tell him my determination to get afloat on blue water.  He persuaded Mother to permit me to make a voyage on his boat, which plied between Waterville, Augusta and Hollowell, which was tidewater on the Kennebec.  She freighted oats, potatoes, corn and wheat.</p><P>Captain Jewell paid me $7 a month--quite a respectable sum for a boy of 14 years.  After $2 on the farm, it seemed munificent to me, and before me was the world of waters.  Mother should have half of all my earnings!</p><P>I found myself installed as assistant cook and general roustabout, which I discovered meant being a servant to ignorant, brutal men.  One of these was a rough Canadian who spoke no English, but could swear a blue streak in English as well as French.</p><P>At Augusta the men sent me ashore with two bits and a ten-quart pail for beer.  Entering the first saloon I saw, I paid the money and asked for beer.  The beer was drawn from a big ironbound barrel, and in my pail was about two inches deep.  Till then I had never seen except in bottles.</p><P>"Is this all I get?" I asked.</p><P>"What do you expect? The whole hogshead?"</p><P>The boatmen tasted the beer, spat it out, and glared at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:me.  "What is this?  Poison?  Throw the stuff overboard!"</p><P>When out of sight, I tasted it and found it bitter as gall.  The only beer I had known till then was harmless spruce beer, innocent of alcohol.</p><P>Captain Jewell treated me well.  He was a noble fellow, never allowing himself to show anger, even when raging beneath a calm exterior.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Titanic</HI>
058.sgm: was flat bottomed, with one square sail.  Therefore it could sail before the wind only.  We were often at anchor, giving us an opportunity to explore on shore.  In two trips in her I gained knowledge and experience.</p><P>Our return cargo was West Indian sugar, molasses, codfish and rice.</p><P>At Hollowell I had my first view of an ocean vessel.  With wonder and delight I wandered over her vast proportions, envying the cabin boys in their conspicuous buttons, and I was fairly dazzled by the captain in uniform.  Admirals Drake, Sampson and Howard (a kinsman) became small potatoes before this spectacle.  Could I soar to such heights, and wear a gold-braided cap?  My determination to get to sea was confirmed.</p><P>With this goal in mind, I confided in Captain Jewell, and while remonstrating mildly, knowing Mother's anxiety, secretly he favored my plan and aided me in getting a berth on the schooner <HI REND="italics">Susan</HI>
058.sgm: to work my way to Boston, the mecca of all New England seamen.  Aboard the <HI REND="italics">Susan</HI>
058.sgm: I went, agreeing to load and discharge cargo, which was wheat in bulk and handled a half bushel at a time--one man in the hold, another on the wharf.</p><P>Then I started looking along the waterfront for a big deep-water vessel that would be going on a long voyage.  Although I now had some idea of work aboard ship, and some book knowledge, I was forced to admit I had never made an ocean voyage.  I offered to work without wages, but got the same answer always: "You would be of no use on this ship."</p><P>I visited a dozen vessels the first day and returned to the <HI REND="italics">Susan</HI>
058.sgm: discouraged.  Another day with the same result. Ordinary and able seamen were a drug on the market just then.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Susan's</HI>
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058.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Capen Farm, Dorchester, Massachusetts, Settled and named by Barnard Capen, 1628.  Birthplace of Elizabeth (Capen) Ellis,1828.</HI>
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058.sgm:was a greenhorn.  I mentioned my experience on the <HI REND="italics">Susan</HI>
058.sgm: and one mate laughingly said that his captain had gone ashore "to buy her (the <HI REND="italics">Susan</HI>
058.sgm: ) for a longboat!"</p><P>No deep-water ship would take me.</p><P>After a week of continuous effort, offering to work my way on several Indian and China traders, I was reluctantly compelled to take Captain Weston's advice and ship on a coaster.</p><P>Meantime I had written Mother, again asking her consent to go to sea.  At that stage, with my determination, she could of course do no less than grant it.</p><P>But to get into a good coaster I found as difficult as to make a Calcutta voyage.  I went to a shipping office that I had noticed on Commercial Street now Atlantic Avenue and met the shipping master.  He told me he would take me as a landsman on a whaler for a three months' voyage on the Pacific.  He told great tales--how he had come to Boston, shipped aboard a whaler, and returned with $5,000.  I could do the same.  The ship was at New Bedford and he would pay my passage there.</p><P>He also confided that when he first saw a ship he had to ask what it was.  I knew he lied.  He sounded too unreliable to suit me.  I told him I would come next day, and I did, bringing with me a boy whom I had met, also looking for a voyage.  The fairy tales of this plausable talker captivated the lad and he signed articles at once.  I refused.</p><P>Turning to my friend, the shipmaster said, "You, my boy, will come back home with a fortune, but that boy (meaning me) will never amount to shucks!"</p><P>Convinced that to become a thorough seaman I must gain actual experience in vessels of all rigs and sizes, I shipped on a little ten-ton fore-and-after, the <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
058.sgm: for New York, going through Long Island Sound.  From there I took a fine, large schooner, the <HI REND="italics">Surprise</HI>
058.sgm:, for Philadelphia.  Then I shipped on a full-rigged brig, the <HI REND="italics">Fanny Coit</HI>
058.sgm:, to Baltimore and Charleston.  There my kinsman, Lieutenant Charles Howard (afterwards lost at sea), secured a berth for me in the <HI REND="italics">Ann Welch</HI>
058.sgm:.  (The son of this Charles Howard was General Charles Howard of the Marine Corps.  I met him later in Waterville in 1904.)  The <HI REND="italics">Ann Welch</HI>
058.sgm: took me to Apalachicola, Pensacola, Mobile, New Orleans and Galveston.</p><P>Again I shipped on a coaster plying between Calais, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:Maine, and Galveston, Texas.  My pay was the sum of seven dollars a month.  Though but a boy in years, I did a man's work, and it was difficult to wait till I could demand an able seaman's wages.  On deep-water ships, boys are the fags of all the crew, from master to fo'cs'l, and must take a lot of unmerited abuse.  Taking in cargo with the crew, stowing and discharging it was a man's work.  Stowing and handling the winch were accomplishments which merited promotion, and I determined to master the job.</p><P>Experiences on the coasters live vividly with me to this day.  On the <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
058.sgm:, the crew consisted of Captain Simms, whose normal condition was drunkenness, one able seaman, and two boys, Jim and me.  The ship was unseaworthy and should have been condemned years before.</p><P>Returning from Eastport with a cargo of lumber, the deck piled high with laths, we encountered a gale which parted the outhauler of the mainsail.  English Bill, the seaman, to save himself, jumped into the boat hanging from the stern davits.  The ringbolt drew out, letting the bow of the boat and Bill into the sea.  Weighted with oilskins, heavy boots and sou'wester, Bill was unable to swim in such weather.  I at once put the helm into the becket and threw overboard several bundles of laths.</p><P>Captain Simms, realizing that the vessel was going about, and seeing the laths in the water, turned savagely to me and threatened to throw me overboard unless I put the vessel back on course instantly.  I could but obey the merciless command, though I saw poor Bill, arms extended, go down into the sea.  I have seen many a poor fellow make passage across the dark river, but never have I been so affected as by Bill's drowning.</p><P>Meantime, everything aloft on the <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
058.sgm: became a wreck.  Halyards parted, sails split from clew to earing, and the vessel rolled fearfully in the trough of the sea.  She was held together by 10 heavy iron bands running across decks down over the bends, rivited through her timbers.</p><P>I concluded my only hope of safety was in the boat, which was hanging by one davit and plunging her full length at every swell of the head sea; but I was ordered to go overside and pass a line around her bow.  Though this was a difficult and dangerous order, I obeyed with alacrity, hoping the boat would break adrift and enable me to part company with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:Captain Simms and the <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
058.sgm:.  However, I managed to pass the bight around the bow and to reach deck again, half drowned.</p><P>We cleared the wreckage, and she got off again under part sail, though with difficulty, for the main peak forethroat and jib halyards were parted and the rigging not being ratted down, we could reach the masthead only by shinning up the shrouds.  Then, ordered to make some coffee (having no galley, we cooked in the cabin), I found the cabin filled to our knees with water.  With pumps we freed her of water by midnight, Jim and I working on our knees, under the jaws of the main boom.</p><P>The misery of that day and night can never be obliterated from memory.  Our diet on days following was cold meat and hardtack soaked with salt water.  Captain Simms required Jim and me to work the vessel as best we could.  When drunk, Simms was a devil incarnate, and drunk he was most of the time.  That we finally reached Boston was a miracle.</p><P>There were pleasant experiences which offset ones like that related above!  Luscious Jersey peaches!  Baltimore bacon!  Hunting wild pigs in Pensacola, the land of shanties, song and cotton--those heavy bales which we loaded all day long!  The thrilling sight when the mighty <HI REND="italics">Great Western</HI>
058.sgm: came majestically up New York Harbor to Peck's Slip, where crowds awaited her, one of the first steam vessels to cross the Atlantic!  The fire in Chestnut Street Theatre, Philadelphia, when the crew of the <HI REND="italics">Fannie Coit</HI>
058.sgm: was called to help in the rescue of those overcome by smoke, one of whom was a very pretty girl indeed!</p><P>Not so pleasant was loading pig iron in the Baltimore Basin when it was so hot and stormy that lightning played along the ship's chains.</p><P>That same night, running up the coast for New York, we ran into a dense fog.  About midnight a cry rang out sharp and clear, "Keep off, keep off!"  We could discern nothing, but again the cry, "Keep off, keep off!</p><P>From which quarter did it come?</p><P>Suddenly the collision!  A French ship off our bow!  Our anchor, torn from the fo'cs'l deck, fell onto the Frenchman, one fluke piercing the deck.  It took six hours of night work to clear, and we made port running up Long Island Sound.</p><P>At last I realized my dream of sailing the ocean blue in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:full-rigged ship.  She was the <HI REND="italics">Neuduh</HI>
058.sgm: bound for Amsterdam, Holland.</p><P>By 1847 I had sailed in everything from flat river-boats to a full-rigged ship, visited all ports from Calais, Maine, to Galveston, Texas, ports of the West Indies, South America and Europe, and risen to the position of second mate at 17 years of age.  Also I had gained experience and knowledge from all sorts and conditions of men on both sea and land.</p><P>In the spring of that year, having been away for more than three years, I made a visit home.  There had been times when this roving sea life with its hardships had discouraged me, but this visit to my native village convinced me that never again could I be content with such a humdrum existence.  Imagine, then, my dismay when Mother exacted from me a promise that I would remain ashore two years--where, she did not care so long as it was on terra firma.  It seemed the death knell of all my hopes, but reluctantly I gave her my word.</p><P>Going to Boston, I secured employment in the bell foundry of H. N. Hooper &amp; Co., on Causeway Street near where the great North Station now stands.  My advance there  was rapid, satisfactory to my employer and myself.  I worked like a slave, never taking a vacation save when burned by exploding molten metal.</p><P>I had found a real home almost in the shadow of Old North Church (of Paul Revere fame), and the Baldwins became as second parents to me.  Near by was Copps Hill and the old Salem Burying Ground.  Also near was the home of Joseph F. White, where I met Elizabeth Capen, his niece and my future bride.  They were descendants of <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058.sgm: ancestors. [See Genealogy, White family.]<ANCHOR ID="nA">*</ANCHOR>
058.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nA"><P>A letter from H.H. Ellis, aged 18, to his mother, written from Boston, November 22, 1847, reads in part:</p><P>"I conclude you wish to hear how I got the situation I now hold.  I went up to the foundry and was told by the office clerk that they did not want any apprentices, as business was very dull--and if they did, I was too old by three or four years.</p><P>"But I did not make up my mind to learn that trade for nothing; so I asked him where Mr. Hooper was.  He was out.  Then I asked for Mr. Blake.  He was busy.  Lastly I asked to see Mr. Richardson.  As good luck would have it, he came in from the finishing room.  He asked me the same questions and `guessed they did not want anybody.'  I then asked him to give me some work.  He said he was busy, but to call on Monday morning and he would let me know.  The rest I will tell you some day.</p><P>"Congratulate me on my promotion to the rank of caster.  The day I wrote you last, the `Old Man,' as we call Mr. Richardson, put me to casting.  That is three steps from moulder.  I took the place of a journeyman who had been at the place seven years.  I have charge of a trough and a man under me, who has been at work 12 years.  In the foundry, apprentices who were here before me are still moulders, and I have been here barely five months.  They call me a fool for killing myself, but I laugh at them.</p><P>"I have not told you all this to boast, but to satisfy you that I am doing well."(end of footnote)</p></NOTE>
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058.sgm:<P>This home of cultured people, with their discussions of literature, travel and the arts, opened new vistas to me.</p><P>A rabid reader of the few books hitherto available to me, I now became a gourmand, with the Boston Public Library my treasure house of literary edibles.</p><P>[The story is continued in the main part of this book.]</p><P>Thirty years after my work and life in Boston I revisited my "second home" there.  The Baldwins were the same good people, changed physically, of course--but then, everything else seemed changed, too.  What had happened to the house?  Had the rooms been divided?  How shrunken they appeared, as compared with my memories of them!</p><P>Elizabeth and I were married in Gardiner, Maine, in 1853, and immediately thereafter we sailed for California with 200 other newly married couples.  She was the daughter of General Aaron Capen and Izanah White Capen.  Both the Capen and the White famlies had settled in New England in the 16th century. [See Genealogy.]</p></DIV>
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058.sgm:<HEAD>EPILOGUE</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>Again we return to Father as he sits reading late in the afternoon.  No longer did he burn the midnight oil as he read till the wee hours; yet, a habit of many years was not to be broken easily, if ever.  He usually joined us at breakfast now; we became intimate and were able to know the depths of his character.</p><P>Hardships of early sea life, labor in pioneer days, the exacting, strenuous duties of twenty-two years of detective work, always on the alert, nights more than days, contending with political factions and baffling problems of crime in a new, almost unorganized city, began to take their toll before the office of Chief ended.  Acute attacks of rheumatism became more frequent, severe, and of longer duration so that leisure was a relief he coveted.  However, active he must be, at least in mind.</p><P>Partnership in the firm of Ellis and Miller, "Hay, Grain and Feed" gave an interest without entailing active duty, and provided an outlet for mind and resources.  Also it brought together two old shipmates who had sailed the seas together when trading on the coast and islands of the Pacific in Pioneer days.</p><P>It was natural for Father to turn to the sea as a source of rest and relaxation; so, it was but a few months after his term of office expired before he was again on the rolling deep, taking sister Iza and brother Bert on a warm voyage to the Far East, China and Japan, via Hawaii, Australia and the isles between.</p><P>An entry in Father's diary dated May 24, 1878, written at sea, reads:  "Homeward bound; will arrive tomorrow.  Since we left home, Dec. 5, we have completed more than the circuit of the globe, in miles about 26,000.  We have visited the islands of Hawaii, Navigators, New Zealand, Tasmania; cities of Sidney and Melbourne, Australia, and the entire eastern and northern coast of that island continent; also New Guinea, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Family of Capt. H. H. Ellis, San Francisco, California, 1869.  Left to right: Iza Vesta; Capt. Ellis; Robert Ellis; Henry Cromwell; Franklin Capen; Lucy; Elizabeth (Capen) Ellis, wife of H. H. E. and Philip Austin</HI>
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058.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">"Elliston," Sunol, California.  Home built by Henry Hiram Ellis, 1890.  Named for ancestral village, "Ellisville," settled by ancestors on Cape Cod, near Sandwich, Massachusetts, 1830</HI>
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058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GENEALOGY</HEAD>
058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GENEALOGY OF THE WHITE FAMILY IN AMERICA</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Accompanying a gift of oil portraits of his father and mother, (Capt. John White and Vesta [Dunbar] White), Joseph F. White gave the following memorandum to Elizabeth (Capen) Ellis, his niece, (daughter of his sister, Izanah [White] Capen</HI>
058.sgm:.)</p><P>"Dictated by my parents at Poplar Street, Boston, Mass., 1847:  My father, Capt. John White, was born in Randolph, March 9th, 1777.  His father's name was Lott White.  His grandfather's name was Micah White, who, with his ancestors, belonged to Weymouth and originated from the Whites at the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth.  Perigrine White was the first White child born in New England.  His (Capt. John White) mother's name was Polly (Mary) Tower before marriage.  She was born in Braintree, now Randolph.</p><P>Mother's name was Vesta Dunbar, born in South Bridgewater, Apr. 6, 1779; moved to Warren, Maine with her parents when six years old.</p><P>My grandmother, Mary (Tower) White, died at Dorchester, Aug. 1804, aged 49 years.  My grandfather, Lott White, died at Dorchester, 1820, aged 70 years.  My mother (Vesta [Dunbar] White,) died at Charleston, May, 1855, aged 76 years."</p><P>(Signed) Joseph F. White<LB>Charles Street, Boston 1847</p><P>"This additional record made by me for Henry H. Ellis and Elizabeth (Capen) Ellis of California.  Elizabeth is the daughter of Maj. General Capen of Dorchester and grand-daughter of Vesta Dunbar White, and my niece.  I desire this paper to accompany the portraits of my father and mother, heretofore presented to the Ellis family of Elliston, California.</p><P>(Signed) at Boston this 20th Nov., A.D., 1892</p><P>Joseph White said that his parents claimed direct descent from Perigrine White of the <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058.sgm:, but as all records of White and Capen families were destroyed when lightning struck and burned the Capen home on Deer Island, Maine, in 1858, I have so far been unable to prove this claim.</p><P>This much of the White genealogy is vouched for by several sources.</p><P>1.  Micah White, b. Dec. 10, 1721; m. Susanna Eager, daughter of farmer of Braintree; Micah d. 1802, Titticut; his son</p><P>2.  Lott White, b. 1748/9; d. 1820; m. Polly (Mary) Tower.  His son</p><P>3.  John (Capt.) White, b. 1777; d. 1847; m. Vesta Dunbar; b. 1779.  Their daughter</p><P>4.  Izanah White, b. abt. 1800; d. 1844; m. Maj. Gen. Aaron Capen.</p><P>5.  Elizabeth Capen, b. Dec. 22, 1828; d. Sept. 13, 1913</p><P>QUOTE FROM THE BOSTON TRANSCRIPT OF DEC. 3, 1906.</p><P>"Ebenezer Gay White, born in Gardiner, Me., May 6th, 1796, married Izanah Capen.  She was the daughter of Major General Capen.  Her mother's maiden name was White (Vesta Dunbar) and she was a direct descendent of Perigrine White, the first child of English parents born in New England on board the <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GENEALOGY OF THE CAPEN FAMILY.</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>FIRST GENERATION<LB>BERNARD CAPEN, b. in England; m. Joan, dau.  Oliver Purchase, 1596; d. Nov. 8, 1638, aged 76 years; Joan, d. Mar. 26, 1653, age 75 years.<LB>Their children:</p><P>SECOND GENERATION<LB>1.  Ruth, b. Aug./Sept, 1600, in England.</p><P>2.  Suzannah, b. Apr. 7, 1602; d. Nov. 13, 1666.</p><P>3.  JOHN (CAPT.), b. Jan. 12, 1612.  (Came to Dorchester with parents in ship <HI REND="italics">Mary and John</HI>
058.sgm:, May 30, 1630); d, Dec. 1690; m, 1st, Redigon Clapp, Oct. 20, 1637; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:, in 1630 and with others settled and named Dorchester, Mass.  He was a freeman and grantee of Crown lands.  He was a Selectman for 16 years; Representative for 6 years; Town Clerk for 13 years and military officer, 50 years.  John and his mother, Mrs. Bernard Capen, gave and signed compact for the FIRST FREE PUBLIC SCHOOL in America at Dorchester.</p><P>His son, Joseph, graduated from Harvard College, 1677; became Administrator, (Minister) in Topsfield, Mass. and was called "Parson Capen."  The original house was still there in 1955.  (Visited by a family connection, Mr. and Mrs. G.M. Oschier, 1955).</p><P>Samuel G. was the first Unitarian minister in South Boston, and his son Charles J. was Master of Boston Latin School for 50 years.  (He was called "Cudjo" by the students.  Also a musician, he was organist for 20 years in the Unitarian Church, Dedham, Mass.)</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<P>In Gardiner, Me., stands a town monument, inscribed:  "MASSACHUSETTS YOUNGEST MAJOR GENERAL--AARON CAPEN."</p><P>General Capen was in command of troops when the Madawuska War was threatened, and considered inevitable on the Eastern border of Maine, owing to disputed boundary between Maine and British Provinces.  (Above item taken from an old manuscript by Gen. Aaron Capen) H.H.E.</p><P>General Aaron Capen was Major General of Massachusetts Militia at 32 years.  He was in command at the time of the visit of Gen. Marquis de Lafayette in 1824 the troops on Boston Common.  General and led the escort to Boston and reviewed Capen entertained the French General in his home in Dorchester.</p><P>REPORT AT ADJUTANT'S OFFICE, taken by George B. Grant (grandson), of GENERAL AARON CAPEN, BOSTON, MASS., DEC. 13, 1880.<LB>Aaron Capen of Dorchester, Mass., b. Apr. 10, 1796; d. Apr. 25, 1886.<LB><HI REND="italics">Ensign</HI>
058.sgm: 1st Regiment<LB>1st Brigade<LB>1st Division........May 7, 1822<LB><HI REND="italics">Lieutenant</HI>
058.sgm: 1st Regiment<LB>1st Brigade<LB>1st Division....Feb. 20, 1823.  Transferred to Rifle Company, May 5, 1823<LB><HI REND="italics">Major</HI>
058.sgm: --Same Company as above, Sept. 26, 1823<LB><HI REND="italics">Colonel</HI>
058.sgm: --Same Company as above, June 21, 1824<LB><HI REND="italics">Brig. General</HI>
058.sgm: --Same Company as above, April 9, 1827<LB><HI REND="italics">Major General</HI>
058.sgm: --Same Company as above, Feb. 22, 1829<LB>He was long associated with the principal military and civil officers of Boston, and neighboring town and was noted as a prompt and energetic officer.</p><P>The Capen farm in Dorchester was jointly owned by Aaron and his younger brother, Lemuel.  After his mother's (Joan, wife of John) death, his father, John, asked Aaron to take charge of the farm.  Against his own judgment, he consented to do so.</p><P>He raised the farm to a high state of cultivation, increased crops and livestock; cleared 8 acres of pasture land, and blasted rock (boulders) to build 120 rods of double stonewall across front of entrance.  (See illustration.)  It was said that one could trot a horse on this wall.  Aaron also built a barn on the marsh, and other out buildings.</p><P>By a combination of fraudulent circumstances, his brother, Lemuel forced Aaron, who had put so much labor and his own means, after his father's death, on the property, while Lemuel had done neither, to relinquish the property to him, Lemuel.  See STATEMENT OF AARON in pamphlet, several copies of which are in hands of Ellis descendents.</p><P>Aaron moved his family to Maine, 1834.  From the government he purchased two islands of nearly 8,000 acres, covered with timber, for $1.25 an acre.  He became Agent to the logging interests on the Kennebec River (whose source is Moosehead Lake).  He built a home on Deer Island, which was struck by lightning and destroyed, June 1858, and with it all family documents, including those showing his legal interest to the Dorchester property.  Courts had confirmed his rights to the property, but on the evening before the decision was to be rendered, Lemuel, committed suicide by drowning.</p><P>"THE OLD CAPEN HOMESTEAD AT DORCHESTER"<LB>"The <HI REND="italics">Capen Farm</HI>
058.sgm: has been in possession of the family since 1630, a period of 240 years.  Its extensive and symmetrical area, its sightliness and healthful elevation commend it favorably to the committee.  The price, moderate, 5 1/2 cts. per foot."<LB><HI REND="italics">Quotation, in part, from a Boston paper, dated 1870</HI>
058.sgm:.</p><P>Thus the <HI REND="italics">Capen Farm</HI>
058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GENEALOGY OF THE ELLIS FAMILY IN AMERICA</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>(<HI REND="italics">The original Norman name as recorded in the Dooms Book, 1188, was Ellese; Elice; Els</HI>
058.sgm:.)</p><P>FIRST GENERATION<LB>LIEUT. JOHN ELLIS, b. in Kent Co. (probably) England, abt. 1599; Came to Lynn, Mass. abt. 1630; removed to Sandwich, Mass., 1635; d. Dec. 1677; m. 1645, Elizabeth, daughter of Edmund Freeman 1st and granddaughter of Gov. Prince. Children were:</p><P>1.  Mordecai, b. 1651<LB>2.  John, b. n.d. ............<LB>3.  Nathaniel, b. 1656<LB>4.  Samuel, b. n.d. ............<LB>5.  MATHIAS, b. June 2nd, 1657, in Sandwich, Mass.</p><P>SECOND GENERATION<LB>MATHIAS, called Junior, son of Lieut. John; m. 1678, Mary, daughter of John Burgess <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:23, 1896; m. Ed Edices; Guerdon, b. June 30, 1898; m. Emma White.<LB>3.  FRANKLIN, b. Oct. 3, 1860; d. July 21, 1951; m. 1st, Anna Christina Behne; their children:  Nina, b. June 5, 1889; d. Sept. 23, 1955; m. W. E. Anderson; Lucy, b. Oct. 26, 1892; m. Harold A. Riley; Walter Capen, b. Sept. 23, 1893; m. Anita ................; Second marriage, Cora ................; no issue.<LB>4.  PHILIP AUSTIN, b. July 14, 1862; d. Aug. 11, 1945; m. Carrie Belle Deal.  Had two children:<LB>Grace Elizabeth, b. Apr. 24, 1885; m. Carroll Locher.  No issue. Austin Deal, b. Dec. 24, 1889; m. Gladys ..............2nd m. Ella Spurbec; no issue.<LB>5.  ROBERT, b. Apr. 17, 1867; m. Lydia Gertrude Steane.  No issue.<LB>6.  LUCY, b. Apr. 18, 1869</p><P>NINTH GENERATION <LB>LUCY, daughter, Henry and Elizabeth Ellis; m. Charles Riddell, Dec. 22, 1898; Their children were:<LB>1.  (Twin) Jean Dinsmore, b. Sept. 12, 1900; m. Jesse Lee Wilson. No issue<LB>2.  (Twin) Elizabeth Frances, b. Sept. 12, 1900; m. George M Ocshier; they had one daughter, Glenna Jean.<LB>3.  Helen Roberta, b. July 20, 1903; m. Dr. Byron W. Gutheil.  They had two children:<LB>Byron W. Jr.; m. Mary Anne O'Connor<LB>Charlene Helen; m. James Mathias<LB>4.  Grahame Ellis, b. July 22, 1905; m. Madeline McLinn.  They had three children:<LB>Lucy Ellis, 3rd, b. Oct. 9. 1943<LB>Mary Lynn, b. Oct. 11, 1944<LB>Grahame Ellis, Jr. b. Aug. 8, 1946<LB>5.  Lucy Ellis, b. Feb. 15, 1910; m. Donald Ellis Huntington.  Their three sons were:<LB>Donald E. Jr., b. Oct. 11, 1934<LB>Charles Riddell, b. Feb. 20, 1938<LB>David Riddell, b. June 13, 1944</P></DIV>
058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MAYFLOWER DESCENDANTS AND OTHER FAMILIES ALLIED TO THE ELLIS FAMILY</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>Philip Warren; John Howland; Samuel Fuller; Richard Gardiner; Miles Standish; erton; Thomas Rogers; John Alden; Edwin Henry Sampson; George Soule; Isaac Alerton; Thomas Rogers; John Alden; Edwin Leister.  Perigrine White claimed as ancestor of Elizabeth Capen through her mother Izanah White.</p><P>Phillippe Delano was ancestor to mother of Henry Hiram Ellis, she being daughter of Anne (Delano) Crommett.  The Delanos were large farmers in Sidney, Me; also early settlers in Waterville.  They descended from Jean de Launy and Marie C. Mahun, Huguenots driven from France, by persecution, to Leydon, Holland, where they joined the Walloon church.  They gave several hospices for the persecuted, also built a church in which Phillippe was christened in 1603.  They came to New England in the ship <HI REND="italics">Fortune</HI>
058.sgm: in 1624.</p><P>The original name, <HI REND="italics">de Launy</HI>
058.sgm:, became <HI REND="italics">de la Noe</HI>
058.sgm: and finally Delano Philip m. Hester Dewbury from Gloucester, England. Duxbury is a corruption of her name.  Philip m. 2nd, Mary Churchill. They had nine children.  The family was one of the position and means.  Jonathan was one of the purchasers of Dartmouth, 1652.  Philip and Benny gave permission to build on their land, "Front of ye gallerie of Town House", 1714.</p><P>Judah in 1773, addressing the people, said, "Liberty or death", for a war cry.  His daughter Priscilla, m. a Sanford; 2nd, Dr. Spooner.  She d. Kent, Ohio, in her 95th year.</p><P>Pegleg 1st, b. Dartmouth 1761; d. Sidney, Me., 1854, at 92 yrs; m. Sarah Sampson.  Their children:</p><P>Benjamin, Ruby, Pegleg Jr., Able, Silas, Anna and Anna 2nd, b. Sidney, Me., Sept. 20, 1774; d. Aug. 19, 1808; m. James Crommett Jr., son of James and Abigail Pinkham Crommett of Waterville, Apr. 14, 1793.<LB>Their daughter, Cynthia Irish Crommett m. Charles Henry Ellis, who became the father of Henry Hiram Ellis.  Pegleg 1st built a grist mill on Delano Brook, near the bank of the Kennebec River, Waterville.  It was on this gristmill where Henry H. Ellis found the Delano family clock, and Galusha, daughter of Sarah Elizabeth Delano gave it to him.  Pegleg Jr., had four sons in the Civil War.  Nathan was a naval captain in the Revolution; Samuel was killed in King Philipp's war; Zabdial was killed at Harlem battle, Sept. 16, 1776.</p><P>Amassa, was a famous navigator; commanded one or more English ships of discovery and published a book of voyages and travel in 1817; joined Privateers War (22 guns of Boston) and served 9 months at Fishkill.  In 1775 Jonathan Delano served in Pegleg Wadsworth's Company; Malachi, Luther and Samuel served in Andrew Sampson's Company.</p><P>(Above records were taken from <HI REND="italics">History of Duxbury; Revolutionary Records; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
058.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058.sgm:; grave stones at Sidney, Me.; <HI REND="italics">History of Winthrop, Me.,</HI>
058.sgm: Maine State Library; others from Savage's <HI REND="italics">Genealogical Dictionary</HI>
058.sgm:; Farmer's <HI REND="italics">Genealogical Registry</HI>
058.sgm:; Davis' <HI REND="italics">History of Plymouth</HI>
058.sgm:; Davis' <HI REND="italics">Ancient Landmarks of Plymouth</HI>
058.sgm: and from many other sources.</p><P>Records of Ellis family in England say that John Ellis was Dean of Hereford, A.D. 1559.  ( <HI REND="italics">Wills and Cathedrals</HI>
058.sgm:, p. 64.  Barry's <HI REND="italics">Genealogy</HI>
058.sgm: mentions the Ellis Coat of Arms, Bangs, Kent Co., England.)  In 1643 Lieut. John with others between ages of 16 and 60, able to bear arms, were commanded to hold themselves in readiness for a call to arms at Plymouth.  Arthur Ellis came to New England, 1630; Edwin in 1652; James of Stonington, 1653.  John of Dedham (freeman) went to Medfield, 1653; m. Susan Lumber; m. 2nd, widow of John Clapp of Dorchester.</p><P>Most of the Ellis families settled in Plymouth, Sandwich and Ellisville, so named from these settlers, many of whom followed the sea.  Father visited the old ancestral home in Ellisville, Sandwich, Cape Cod, many times.  I was with him in 1889, and was awed by the size of the huge chimney.  The house of hand hewn timber seemed to be built around the fireplace.  It was a yawing cavern, 11 ft. between the breast, a large brick oven on one side and a swinging crane.  It held easily a half cord of wood.  I walked in and looked up through the chimney, to see stars.</p><P>Floors and ceilings were of oak showing still the marks of the ax blows.  Backlogs were hauled by oxen with a chain stretching across the floor, oxen on one side of the house, log on the other.  When opposite the fire place it was then rolled into the back of the opening, to last for some days.  On the stairway landings, built around the chimney were closets which would hold, so it was said, a full company of soldiers.  Built about 1690 it was still occupied when destroyed by fire, 1900.</p><P>Forests were of oak originally, after clearing pine growth.  Being near Cape Cod, the estate was intersected by sloughs which furnished eels--and the bogs, nearby, cranberries--both sold on the New York Market.</p><P>Many deeds and other documents of 1600 and 1700 proved the family to be "freemen"--not indentured servants.</P></DIV>
058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GENEALOGY FOR MEMBERSHIP IN THE D.A.R. AND THE SOCIETY OF DAUGHTERS OF THE MAYFLOWER.</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>(Lucy Ellis Riddell, member, June 1954.  State No. 1898; National No. 20341)<LB>1.  Francis Cook of the <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058.sgm:.  His daughter was<LB>2.  Jane Cook who m. Experience Mitchell, and had<LB>3.  Sarah Mitchell, b. abt. 1645; d. on or after 1689; m. abt. 1661 to John Hayward, b. at Duxbury, Mass., abt. 1642; d. at Duxbury, 1710; their son<LB>4.  Thomas Hayward, b. at Bridgewater, Mass., Jan. 10, 1674/5; d. at Bridgewater, Mar. 20, 1741 in 67th year; m. at Bridgewater, Mass., on June 5, 1706 to Bethiah Brett, b. at East Bridgewater, Mass., on Aug. 14, 1745.  Their daughter was<LB>5.  Mary Hayward, b. at Bridgewater, Mass., Jan. 4, 1718/9; d. at Bridgewater, Mass., Feb. 3, 1793, age 74; m. at Bridgewater, Mass., on Feb. 11, 1745/6 to Samuel Dunbar, b. Bridgewater, Mass., on May 17, 1704; d. at Bridgewater, Mass., on Apr. 17, 1786; son<LB>6.  Daniel Dunbar, b. at Bridgewater, Mass., Aug. 13, 1748; d. at Warren, Me., Sept. 30, 1824; m. at Bridgewater, Mass., or Brocton, May 2, 1773 to Abigail Kingman; b. at Bridgewater, Mass., Sept. 4, 1749; d. at Warren, Me., Sept. 24, 1830.  Their daughter<LB>7.  Vesta Dunbar, b. at South Bridegwater, Mass., April 6, 1779; d. Charlestown, Mass., May 18, 1855; m. at Warren, Me., 1797; d. at Boston, Mass., July 1847, Age 70.  Their daughter<LB>8.  Izanah White, b. Milton, Mass., Mar. 11, 1801; d. Gardiner, Me., on May 11, 1845, age 44 years; m. at Dorchester, Mass., October 3, 1821 to Aaron Capen; b. at Dorchester, Mass., Apr. 10, 1796; d. Gardiner, Me., Apr. 25, 1856.  Their daughter<LB>9.  Elizabeth Capen, b. at Dorchester, Mass., Dec. 22, 1828; d. at Sunol, California, Sept. 16, 1913; m. at Gardiner, Me., July 5, 1853 to Henry Hiram Ellis, b. Waterville, Me., June 15, 1829; d. at San Francisco, Dec. 15, 1909.  Their daughter<LB>10.  Lucy Ellis, b. San Francisco, April 18, 1869; d. ................; m. at Sunol, California, Dec. 22, 1898 to Charles Riddell, b. Allegheny (Pittsburgh) Penn., July 4, 1867; d. .............</P></DIV>
058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GENEALOGY FOR MEMBERSHIP IN THE SONS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION.</HEAD>
058.sgm:<P>(Henry Hiram Ellis elected to membership, November 19, 1902.  National No. 14722.  California State No. 447.)<LB>Henry Hiram Ellis, b. Waterville, Me., <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:June 15, 1829; m. Elizabeth Capen, July 5, 1853; son of<LB>Charles Henry Ellis, b. Apr. 6, 1806, Ellisville, Mass., m. Cynthia Irish Crommett, June 9, 1827.  Son of<LB>William Ellis, 3rd; b. Dec. 15, 1771; m. Feb. 28, 1793, Hepsibah Blackwell, b. ................ 1772, Sandwich, Mass. Son of Thomas Ellis, b. 1745; m. 1767, Jerusha Clark, dau. of Israel and Deborah (Pope) Clark.  Son of<LB>William Ellis, 2nd; b. ............ 1719, Sandwich, Mass.; m. abt. 1743, Patience Brewster.  Son of<LB>William Ellis, 1st; b. ............ 1693; m. abt. 1718, Jane Allerton. Son of Mathias Ellis, b. June 2, 1657, Sandwich, Mass., m. 1678, Mary Burgess.</p><P>Thomas Ellis, Private in Capt. Nathaniel Hammond's Company (4th Plymouth Company) Lieut. Col. White's Regiment.  Enlisted July 30, 1780.  Service, 9 days at Rhode Island on Alarm.</P></DIV>
058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>RECORDS OF SERVICE FOR SONS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION AND DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION.</HEAD><P>Thomas Ellis and Israel Clark (father of great grandmother of Henry H. Ellis) enlisted in Plymouth, in Oct. 1777, for five months service to guard prisoners who surrendered with Gen. Burgoyne.</p><P>Elizabeth (Riddell) Oschier, daughter of Lucy Ellis Riddell, who is a daughter of Henry Hiram Ellis, joined the Daughters of the American Revolution Apr. 16, 1949.  National No. 384743.</p><P>Descendents of Lucy Ellis Riddell eligible for membership in Daughters of the American Revolution through her mother's line (Capen) as follows:</p><P>JOHN CAPEN, b. June 3, 1745, in Dorchester, Mass., was private in Capt. Lemuel Clapp's 1st Dorchester Co., March 4, 1776 which took Dorchester Heights.  Col. Benjamin's Regiment, May-Aug. 1779; Sergeant in same company, Nov. 1779-Jan. 1780-May 1780; as Corporal Aug. 1--Oct. 16, 1780.<LB>AARON CAPEN, son of John Capen, was b. Apr. 1796, Dorchester, Mass; his dau. Elizabeth Capen, m. Henry Hiram Ellis.  Their dau. Lucy Ellis, m. Charles Riddell.  (See genealogies for details.)</p><P>HENRY ELLIS CAPEN, deceased, nephew of Elizabeth Capen Ellis, was a member, Maine State, S.A.R. from June 1904/5.  He was son of Aaron Capen, b.  1822, who was son of Aaron Capen, b.  1796, who was son of John Capen, b.  1745.  (See Capen Genealogy.)</P></DIV>
058.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MAXIMS AND EPIGRAMS.  H.H.E.</HEAD>
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058.sgm:<DIV><P>NOTES</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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058.sgm:<P>NOTES</p></DIV></DIV>
058a.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-058a</TITLE>
058a.sgm:<TITLE>From the Kennebec to California; reminiscences of a California pioneer. Selected and arranged by Lucy Ellis Riddell. Introduction by Robert Glass Cleland. Edited by Laurence R. Cook: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
058a.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
058a.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
058a.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
058a.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
058a.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>58-14191</LCCN>
058a.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
058a.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 443333</COPYRIGHT>
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058a.sgm:<LB>FROM THE KENNEBEC TO CALIFORNIA</P>
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058a.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">from the</HI>
058a.sgm: KENNEBEC<LB><HI REND="italics">to</HI>
058a.sgm: CALIFORNIA<LB><HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of a California Pioneer</HI>
058a.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">by</HI>
058a.sgm: HENRY HIRAM ELLIS<LB><HI REND="italics">1829-1909</HI>
058a.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Selected and arranged by Lucy Ellis Riddell</HI>
058a.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Introduction by Robert Glass Cleland</HI>
058a.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Edited by Laurence R. Cook</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Warren F. Lewis, <HI REND="italics">Publisher</HI>
058a.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, California</HI>
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058a.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Copyright 1959</HI>
058a.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">By Warren F. Lewis, Publisher</HI>
058a.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 59-14191</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA<LB>BY MURRAY &amp; GEE, INC.</P>
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058a.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Preface</HEAD>
058a.sgm:<P>Some 40 years after the passing of my father, looking over the contents of an old camphor chest, a collection of old newspapers, books, magazines, family papers, letters and clippings of a lifetime, I found the beginning of a manuscript of his life.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Jotted down on the backs of letters, scrap paper in account books, diaries and envelopes were notes of much more of his early life, with newspaper clippings of his public life and services in San Francisco.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Among this unorganized material I came across these prophetic words:  "Old age and waning powers, which I fully realize, make me know that I cannot hope to write my simple story and make it interesting to my children; yet 'tis a duty I owe to those who will come after me to encourage them to fix their eyes on noble aspirations and to believe in the family motto, <HI REND="italics">Nil Desperandum</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>And so I take up the task and joy of piecing together some of the unusually interesting facts and experiences found on these fading bits of paper.</P>
058a.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Yes, Father, before more weight of years falls upon me, I will endeavor to carry on and make of these many sketches the "Story" you wanted to leave to your children</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>I dedicate it to them and their progeny, hoping some will find in this tale of a self-made man, a pioneer and patriot, inspiration to attain, by the principles and ambition which guided his life, something above mediocracy.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>LUCY ELLIS RIDDELL<LB><HI REND="italics">Altadena, California</HI>
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058a.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Introduction</HEAD>
058a.sgm:<P>Born in Waterville, Maine, June 15, 1829, Henry Hiram Ellis arrived in California in July, 1849, shortly after his 20th birthday.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Thereafter he was, in succession, a gold miner, owner and captain of a Sacramento River boat, owner and captain of a Pacific trading vessel, laborer at odd jobs in San Francisco, policeman, captain of detectives, Chief of Police, merchant, and U.S. Consul at Turks Island in the West Indies.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>He was an active participant in the times of the Vigilante Committees of '51 and '56, and, as Chief of Police, had an important role in the Safety Committee of '76.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>During the Civil war he served as U.S. Marshal of Northern and Southern California.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In January, 1849, Ellis and his father, Charles Henry Ellis, left Boston for California as passengers on the sailing vessel, <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>They arrived in San Francisco separately, however, under circumstances related in this book and also in the diary of the elder Ellis, which appears in the book, <HI REND="italics">"California Gold Rush Voyages, 1848-1849</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>His father was born on Cape Cod (Ellisville) Massachusetts, April 9, 1806, a descendant of Lieut. John Ellis who came from Plymouth, England, in 1630 to the Colony in Massachusetts.  Though born of a seafaring race, C. H. Ellis had no love for the sea and after a few voyages, became a merchant and lumberman.  None too successful as a business man, he went down in the great panic of 1837 and never recovered from the blow and thereafter his family saw him infrequently and received but little support from him.</P>
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058a.sgm:<P>Henry H. Ellis' boyhood days were spent in poverty, his mother struggling to support herself and her two sons.  How he overcame all difficulties and made a place for himself in the affairs of men, will be told in the following pages.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The publisher assumes (on Mrs. Riddell's assurance) that the material in this book is original and accurate, but recognizes that the unorthodox method of its preparation may have offered opportunities for inaccuracies to slip in.  If such there be, the publisher will not be held responsible.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>ROBERT GLASS CLELAND<LB><HI REND="italics">San Marino, California</HI>
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058a.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Contents</HEAD>
058a.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Preface</HI>
058a.sgm:<HSEP>vii <HI REND="italics">Introduction</HI>
058a.sgm:<HSEP>ix<LB>Chapter I<HSEP>3<LB>Chapter II<HSEP>13<LB>Chapter III<HSEP>28<LB>Chapter IV<HSEP>40<LB>Chapter V<HSEP>48<LB>Chapter VI<HSEP>68 <HI REND="italics">Index</HI>
058a.sgm:<HSEP>83</P>
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058a.sgm:<P>FROM THE KENNEBEC TO CALIFORNIA</P>
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058a.sgm:<P>Chapter 1</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In December, 1848, believing that the confinement of city life was impairing my constitution, I permitted my yearning for the sea to return.  Nineteen years old, I had neared the top in foundry work and had fulfilled my promise to my mother to give up the sea for awhile and work ashore.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>At that fateful moment my father came to Boston to see me and announced that he had taken passage for California in January in the brig <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>It was not so much that I believed all the wonderful stories that were told of the gold discovery; rather it was that the writers described California as a country of romance and great opportunity for young men.  If it did not prove to be just that, there was Mexico next door, where there must be employment for skilled mechanics.  And if that failed, was I not a sailor, able to land on my feet wherever I should fall?</P>
058a.sgm:<P>So I said to Father, "I'll go with you."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>But Father said "No," because I was doing well where I was, and there, he felt, I should remain, taking care of Mother.  I disregarded his advice, which was also a command.  My resolve had been taken, my years of probation were long past.  The very next morning I presented myself to the captain and agent of the <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>My bleached face and my shore togs were not the best recommendations to present to a shipping office, but I was put through a thorough nautical examination and was questioned about my experience and the ships on which I had sailed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Immediately after the agreement had been concluded, my father walked into the office.  Amazed at what had taken place, and seeing that I was determined to go, he proposed, after a conference with the captain, to pay for my passage, if a vacancy in the passenger list should occur.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Luckily, in a few days, by unexpected turn of fortune, there was a cancellation.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Any chance of getting into the cabin by other than the traditional sailor's route had never occurred to me.  To me the captain's cabin had always been a sanctum sanctorum.  Passengers I had looked upon as favored mortals, to be envied.  And now here was I, ready to enter the cabin as a gentleman passenger instead of as a member of the crew, cap in hand.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Cost of the passage was $600.  Later I paid this debt, with interest, to a creditor of Father's.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>When we sailed, on January 16, 1849, I was the proudest and happiest man in all that ship's company.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The crew consisted of ordinary seamen only, plus boys.  During the voyage the crew's inability became evident when we encountered heavy weather.  It became necessary to strengthen the watches by using some of the passengers who could do seamen's duty, and of these, of course, I was one.  The duties were light until we reached the Straits of Magellan, through which the captain had unwisely determined to pass.  Struggling through the Straits in a square-rigged vessel in the teeth of a constant gale was no easy task.  Often the sea was blown almost smooth; there the ocean breathes deeply.  To take advantage of the tides, we were obliged to work night and day, letting go, heaving up anchor.  Working ship was the order of the hour.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I had had an experience off La Plata which convinced me I was earning my passage.  At night, while reefing the foresail, I lost my hold and my balance through the sudden filling of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>After three weeks of hard work we reached Port Famine, a convict settlement, the "Van Diemen's Land" of the Government of Chile, situated on the north shore of the Strait, at the southern extremity of Patagonia.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Of the inhabitants, the greater portion were the worst class of convicts, though there was also a little community of free people, mysteriously gathered from all nations and climes.  The colony was under the despotic sway of a governor, who had a company of soldiers and numerous petty officers and under-strappers.  They were a tough lot of citizens, little better in appearance than the prisoners they guarded.  What induced them to stay and how they lived were beyond the ken of man.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>During the delay caused by a search ashore for food and water, the volunteer crew members enjoyed their liberty.  To even the score, the rest of the passengers brought the supplies aboard.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>At ebb tide we would land, to hunt and explore.  One day we landed in a little bight, between rocky headlands, to intercept a number of sea loins, some brown and some white, that were basking in the sun on an elevation near the shore.  The entrance was narrow, only about 20 feet across.  Landing and firing into them was the signal for the animals to head for deep water.  Our presence did not hinder them in the least.  The frightened beasts, with loud roars, plunged pell-mell into the water, overthrowing several of us.  Bruised and half drowned, we made safety in a wild scramble.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Another time, four of us landed and made our way into the interior, where we discovered a herd of llamas feeding on pampas grass.  In the excitement of the chase, and because of the grass, which was higher than our heads, I became separated from my companions.  Not until sundown did I think of returning.  Then, in much trepidation, I made my way rapidly to the coast, realizing that time and tide wait for no man.  Perhaps the brig had sailed!</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I directed my course to intercept her, and sure enough, as I climbed a ridge of hills overlooking the Straits, miles from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>When I landed on deck, Captain Higgins blessed me in true nautical style.  Father, however, was delighted, and I soon forgot my recent peril.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It was at Port Famine that I determined not to continue in the <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>So, quietly, I made my arrangements with a young Englishman (George) of the Governor's household, who agreed to keep me.  Meantime our only two able seamen--a New Hampshire man, Griffith, and a Portuguese called Joe, a Western Islander--had provisioned a boat and left for parts unknown in the direction of the Atlantic.  They were never heard from again.  It was supposed that they fell victims to the Tierra del Fuegians, who were more than suspected of being cannibals.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>When the day of sailing arrived, George was alongside with a boat.  When the anchor was weighed and the brig was paying off, I jumped under her jib to the gangway ladder, cried out to Father, "Good-bye, I'll meet you in California," and to Captain Higgins, "Good-bye, sir, I'll beat you to San Francisco," and leaped into the boat.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Paying no attention to the captain's urgent command, "Come back," I grabbed the second pair of oars, and my new friend and I soon covered the distance to the shore.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>My father had been speechless, for though I had confided to him my intention, if opportunity offered, to desert the brig for a faster sailing ship, he apparently did not think that the opportunity would offer, or, if it did, that I would really take such a chance.  I interpreted as consent his slight interest in the matter.</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>I have before me Father's diary of the entire voyage.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
058a.sgm: I should like to quote from the diary at length, but will say only that the <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058a.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">In 1954 this diary was published by the Huntington Library in the volume, <HI REND="italics">California Gold Rush Voyages, 1848-1849.</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>My new friend, George, the Englishman, was interpreter and major-domo to the Patagonian Governor.  Sharing his room and bed of skins, I was well satisfied with the change from the crowded cabin and miserable fare of the brig to large quarters, fresh guanaco meat (llama), and vegetables.  A few days were pleasantly passed in hunting guanacos and in fishing.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>On Sunday evening everybody attended a fandango, and a motley gathering it was:  women of every shade, type and color, in whose veins flowed the blood of the ancient Incas, the Moors of Granada, the Castilians from Andalusia, the sturdy Breton, the lively Frank, the persistent German, and the omni-present American.  As for the men, they were shipwrecked and runaway saliors, ticket-of-leave men, convicts who had served their time, and a number of no particular calling.  No doubt the majority had left their country for the country's good.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Time passed pleasantly.  I had not yet wearied of the strange, novel life when one pleasant April morning a convict came running from the beach shouting, "Um pile hata!  Um pile hata!"  (A schooner! A schooner!).  All hands rushed for the embarcadero, where a boatload of people had just landed from the most beautiful specimen of seagoing architecture I had ever seen:  the New York pilot boat, <HI REND="italics">William G. Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Let me go back two and a half years to the fall of 1846, to Wharf No. 7 in Boston, during my unsuccessful endeavor, at 17 years of age, to ship on a deep sea vessel.  It was a dreary rainy evening. My old schoolfellow and shipmate, Neal Nye, was getting his dunnage aboard the new ship <HI REND="italics">Boston</HI>
058a.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>But man proposes, God disposes.  In six weeks I was on the Mediterranean, and Neal was with Zachary Taylor on the Rio Grande, doing battle for his country.  He saw the war through, then returned home to die, afflicted with that terrible disease, dysentery, which laid low more of our brave countrymen than did Mexican bullets.  I was told he had died, and mourned his loss keenly.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Then on this bright morning, at the end of the world, in a convict settlement in Patagonia, Neal and I miraculously again stood face to face!</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Harry Ellis!"</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Neal Nye!"</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The exclamations came forth simultaneously.  A warm handclasp helped dispel the incredulity on our faces, and an hour's chat cleared all mystery.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"How in the name of fate did you get here?"</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"When were you resurrected?"</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Similar questions came thick and fast.  More important was the question, how could I secure passage on board the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:? But that came after Neal and I had overhauled our logs together and retold our emotions when each thought the other dead, for Neal had not heard of me since we parted at the sailing of the <HI REND="italics">Boston</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Would Captain White give me passage?  I offered him the watch that had been given me by my father.  It was the only valuable possession I had, and I offered it with promises of payment in full for passage when I should gather my share of wealth from the rivers and mountains of California.  Neal had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>The crew of the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>The schooner was not only beautiful to look upon, but was a fast, superior vessel.  She would lie within three points of the wind and outsail anything we fell in with.  Beating through the Strait, Captain White handled her to perfection, but in blue water he was as helpless as a child.  Knowing nothing of navigation, he was miserable when out of sight of land.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Captain Sturgess had joined the vessel at Rio de Janeiro, taking the place of a man named Whittlesey, who, off Cape St. Roque, was washed off the bowsprit and drowned.  Sturgess, an old shipmaster who had grown grey in the merchant service, had navigated all seas and visited all lands.  He was a genial, cautious gentleman.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Captain Simmons, who also had joined at Rio, was an old sea dog.  Where he first had seen light he kept a profound mystery.  According to his own testimony, and that of many scars and wounds on his body, he had led a lawless life.  He had been engaged in the wars between Uruguay and her neighbors, Argentina and Brazil.  For years he had taken part in the slave trade between Brazil and the African coast.  Rumors of piracy were whispered.  To Captain White he became an object of suspicion.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Lest Simmons try to stir up mutiny aboard, Captain White instructed his son to dog his footsteps.  Then White managed to get possession of all the firearms belonging to the passengers and crew.  Nye and Lane, the mischief-makers, kept the worthy captain in a constant state of alarm, repeating imaginary bloody deeds that Simmons was supposed to have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Poor Simmons, innocent of any such intentions, and at a loss to account for the behavior of the captain and crew, was, like the rest of us, only too eager to reach California and repair his broken fortune.  A few months before he had joined the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>These practical jokes worked on the captain's timidity to such an extent that he put in to the Galapagos Islands under pretense of procuring fresh water and provisions.  As soon as the anchor was down he called a consultation with a trusted few, revealing his intention to land and then abandon old Simmons, leaving him to his fate.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It took much argument and some threats to make Captain White relinquish his plot to force Simmons to play the role of a second Robinson Crusoe.  The islands were not inhabited.  When all hands pledged themselves to be responsible for the good conduct of Simmons, White finally gave in.  All went well thereafter to the end of the voyage.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>While at the Galapagos Islands we captured a large green turtle in shallow water and a dozen terrapin from the high table land.  The terrapin were plentiful, some of them three feet across and four or five feet long.  They are a land turtle and require no fresh water.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Many whalers were cruising for sperm whales in that latitude; yet every vessel that sighted us squared her yards and crowded all sail, intent upon giving us a wide berth.  We were angered and mortified.  Captain White believed with good reason that evidently our craft was an object of suspicion to the blubber hunters.  Long and low in the water, with flush decks, raking masts, little or no sheer, and a straight bowsprit, she indeed looked forbidding enough to justify the fear evidently entertained by the "lime-juicers" that she was a pirate.</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>In bad weather, on the wind with a head sea, she was a diving bell, her deck under water most of the time.  In very heavy weather the jib had to be triced up the forestay to prevent its being washed away.  This business, a tough job, usually fell to me, as an extra hand working his way on ship.  To do the job it was necessary to go out to the end of the bowsprit, outside the stay, with a bunch of spun yarns, and, beginning at the head of the sail, to gather and knot it together between each hoop.  As work progressed, the sail was triced up the stay.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Meantime the vessel would plunge into the sea, burying me at times fathoms deep--or so it seemed.  Clasping the bowsprit with my legs, clinging tightly with my arms to the stay, I would hold my breath until she showed her nose above water again.  Coming to the surface was most trying of all, for as she brought her nose upward, the weight of water, pressing my body against the stay, almost squeezed the life out of me.  It was under just such circumstances that poor Whittlesey had been lost off Cape St. Roque, as above stated.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Fortunately this operation was required only four or five times and, fortunately, too, I had recovered from an illness which came near sending me to Davy Jones' locker shortly after leaving the strait.  Simmons and I succumbed to a common ailment aboard ship, where fresh vegetables and fruit were not served the crew, and, as a consequence, constipation is suffered to the extent that the bowels do not function at all.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Our navigator, Captain Sturgess, had a hard time with the captain, who was determined to make the land and run up the coast.  No argument the old seaman used made any impression on the captain, a harbor pilot, who, as I have already said, was miserable when out of sight of land.  Upon various pretexts of the navigator, and under loud mutterings of the passengers, the vessel held her westing until we reached the latitude of Point Conception.  From there we made a free wind of it and then a dead beat to San Francisco Bay, which we entered on June 25, 1849.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Going up the harbor, the captain, wishing to make a display, set every stitch of canvas he could crowd on her, although the wind was dead aft.  The result was that, rounding Clark's Point, and hauling our wind, we found ourselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>We were obliged to let everything go by the run, and by the sudden jibing of the foreboom I was struck on the head and knocked senseless into the waist, with half my body hanging over the rail.   Had it not been for the prompt aid of Lane, I would have finished my career then and there.  My quick recovery was the subject of good natured raillery from the ship's company.  The assured me they had no fears for my safety, for "one born to be hanged will never be drowned."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I might say here that the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Thirty years later, 11 members of the passengers and crew of the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter 2</HEAD>
058a.sgm:<P>THOUGH I HAD sailed for California with little faith in the gold stories, when I landed my skepticism turned to amazement. Strange sights greeted me everywhere.  Already gathered here were representatives from many nations.  For the most part they lived in adobe houses, shacks and tents, from the waterfront to Telegraph Hill (then known as Loma Alta), over the sand dunes west for several blocks, and south in a sort of valley to California Street.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Vivid impressions remain:  Goods piled up on the streets and sold there . . . everywhere piles of gold dust, from fine scale river gold to coarse nuggets mixed with quartz . . . everywhere gambling, coins of every kind piled on gaming tables . . . men with their buckskin bags bursting with the yellow dust . . . silver selling at 16 ounces to one of gold . . . silver of any kind, from the "tin" of Peru to the English shilling . . . a rupee at 50 cents . . . money changers of the streets thriving and waxing fat . . . the dispenser of liquids, taking a pinch of flake gold out of the miner's bag for every drink . . . traders weighing out fine gold in grains or pennyweight . . . paying $5 fare to go to, or come from, a vessel . . . mechanics getting $20 a day . . . chickens selling at $3 apiece,  eggs at 50 cents apiece, drinks at a dollar.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The harbor was full of abandoned vessels, perhaps 900 of them.  Masters and crews had gone to the mines.  In some cases masters were left with their ships on their hands.  Hundreds of these abandoned ships, such as the <HI REND="italics">Mada Kay</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Seventeen months earlier, when some shiny flakes, tied up in a dirty rag--flakes which "might be gold"--were brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>In 1848 Yerba Buena had a population of about 50 people; in 1849, when the gold rush was on, it was estimated at 20,000, coming and going.  Even navy and army posts were deserted, and the population of San Francisco was correspondingly increased.  It was predominantly a male population, living turbulently under the rule of a disorganized army.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>(I quote Major Roger Butterfield.  Incidentally, when I brought my bride to San Francisco four years later, in 1853, she was fearful to go out on the streets alone, so unusual was the sight of a woman, especially a modest one, in San Francisco.)</P>
058a.sgm:<P>And this was Eldorado!</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The very next day after we arrived, several of us from the <HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>We made good progress until we reached the slough.  There the large trees which overhung the banks literally took the wind out of our sails.  Since the sails were of no account in the narrow slough, it took us a week to work our way through.  We lived on a stew composed of bacon, flour, beans, fish, birds, and chili peppers, too hot for most of us to stomach.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Captain Simmons was almost eaten alive with mosquitoes, which clouded the slough.  So distorted was his face, it lost the semblance of humanity.  So badly was he poisoned, he could not protect himself from further attack.  I saw him black with the pests.  On landing, we had to carry him ashore in a hammock.  A few more days on the slough, and the mosquitoes would have been the death of him.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>(So bad were the mosquitoes, even boatmen would abandon the river boats for other jobs.)</P>
058a.sgm:<P>When Captain Simmons was able to travel, we set out for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>After a long trek through valleys and over mountains, we arrived at Lacy's Bar and prepared for our mining operations by making two rockers of tree trunks.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In our mining we met with fair success, never taking out less than one to three ounce per day per man.  For a week Lane and I each took out 18 ounces a day.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The first gold I panned out, about half an ounce, I put in a letter  and mailed to a certain young lady in Boston.  Six months later the treasure, in a dirty, dilapidated, torn envelope, reached its destination.  Evidently it had been carried about in the pocket of the man who had undertaken to deliver it.  Though the gold lay loose in the folds of the paper, not one scale was missing.  That identical gold is preserved today.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It was during this period, on August 18, 1849, that my mother wrote me the following letter:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"My Dear Child:  I have at last received a letter from you, although you are at the ends of the earth, as it were.  Need I tell you how anxious I have been ever since you left, more especially for six weeks past?</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"I heard a long time ago of the <HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>(She then mentions a number of local people and other letters received from California.)</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Mr. Crosby is on his way to San Francisco in the <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058a.sgm: from New York.  He is hired by William and Daniel Moors of Waterville to run a steamboat up the Sacramento River, and they carried the boat on board the <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058a.sgm:.  Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"My dear child, I wrote you a letter by him and he said he would try and get it to you.  I am thus particular to write you about him because I want you to see him.  His advice, you may depend upon, will be very valuable to you.  He calculates to be gone from home two years.  He made himself well acquainted with that land before he started.  Tell him his family were all well the 17 of August and hoping to hear from him as soon as possible.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>(After several pargaraphs of purely personal interest she continues.)</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Do right and you will reap the reward.  It am fully sensible that you will have to undergo some hardships and privations of daily comforts in that new country, however beautiful and rich it may be in gold.  I want you to be prudent and not expose your health.  What will you do for a house to sleep in, what for a bed to lie on? I am in the dark as to what they do there.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"I think the best constitution will be broken down by exposure to night air.  If you have a tent, will it be comfortable for your health?  Will it be secure from robbers and all those evils a new country is exposed to?  I wish you had let me know you were intending to go there.  I could have provided you a good many necessary little things, which I know you forgot in your sudden departure.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"I charge you again about your health.  Don't go without your regular meals on any account, no, not if you could get a peck of gold dust while you were eating.  Your health is more valuable to you than all the gold in California.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"And again, your morals are next in danger.  Be careful you are not led into difficulties by not knowing your associates, not trusting anyone until you have tried and proved them.  I think that was your motto.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"I do not blame you for going to California.  I know it held out temptation for a young man who has his fortune to make.  Still, I wish you had been contented in Boston.  It may all prove for the best yet.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Again I say, write as often as possible and give some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:description of California, that our editor may have the pleasure of publishing something from the land of gold.  You have had my prayers for your success and still have them.  Yes, my child, you shall still have them.  Write again.  I say write and I will pay the postage with pleasure.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
058a.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">There were no stamps or postal facilities.  Letters were personally carried and delivered.  Letters were folded, addressed on blank side of sheet, sealed with wax, and later on amount of postage was marked on the outside.</NOTE>
058a.sgm:<P>"Do not work on the Sabbath, my child."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The 18 ounce finds were beginners' luck and bad for us, for when the finds fell off to three ounces, we were willing to listen to the tale of discovery of "the source of gold," the famous "Gold Lake."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Excitement over this supposed find had broken out about the time of our arrival in California.  It was generally believed that such a head did exist, the fountain source from which all the gold in California had issued.  It was reported that a certain woman, the first white woman to arrive in Sacramento by the mountain route, had the proofs of the existence of such a lake and was willing to divulge that information.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>From our company of 30, five of us were selected to interview her.  We waited upon her and she showed us two large bags of coarse gold.  Remembering the strange sights in the big city, we were ready to swallow her story as literal truth.  All of us were rather short in our knowledge of geology.  I, the youngest on the bar, not yet 21 years old, was a youthful enthusiast.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Her story was that she and her husband had left the Missouri River with a company of 50 or more.  Upon reaching the Sierra Nevada Mountains, the two of them had turned off and had entered a canyon in search of food for their weary animals.  Taking turns riding their horses, and leading their three pack mules, they had wandered from one canyon to another.  Finally they had thrown away most of their heavy provisions, caching one lot in a lateral canyon and making short rations of the remainder.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>One night they had camped in a little valley where there was good feed and water.  Then, wandering on as before, they had come to a lake about a mile long and a fourth of a mile <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Realizing at last that they had lost all trace of the main party, they had set out across the mountains and after untold hardships had reached Fort Sutter.  Her husband had gone on to San Francisco to purchase provisions and to outfit a company to return to the lake, where they expected to gather a few golden millions and then go back east.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>She could give only indefinite directions as to the location of the "find," but she said it was about 30 miles east of Steep Hollow, near the summit.  Steep Hollow was a well known spot on the Emigrant Road.  Travelers would cut down trees in the mountains and attach them to the after ends of their wagons, to prevent them from ending over while descending the long, steep declevity into the "hollow."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The woman's story sounded plausible.  There was the gold to corroborate it, in such quantities that it must have been gathered some place.  Moreover, she was well informed, talked modestly, using good language, and was about 25 years old.  If the spot she described could be located, each of us could help himself to whatever gold he wanted and then return home--for no man would wish to remain in this country, where no rain fell for six months!</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Thirty of us thereupon formed a company, returned to Sacramento, and purchased a pile of provisions as big as a house, consisting mostly of Chilean flour and peppers, Oregon bacon, Sandwich Island coffee, and saleratus that was weighed ounce for ounce with gold dust.  Other purchases included rockers, tools, pots, pans, 30 horses and an equal number of mules, to make up the pack train.  All this we piled beneath a grand old oak tree while we made ready for Gold Lake.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Every morning several horses would be missing from the remuda, but the Mexican vaqueros would finally round them up and return them to us for an ounce of gold dust a head.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>We packed the mules and started, but in about 15 minutes some of the packs loosened, others came in contact with trees or with one another, animals stampeded, smashing cradles, ripping open the sacks and strewing the trail with flour, beans, and the rest of our provisions.  After a week, this state of affairs ended in a grand row, and the company broke up.  The common property was divided, and five of us formed a new group and started for this new "Eldorado."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>We got on well, becoming expert at packing our little train.  Packing is an art--and some of our company had never seen a mule before they arrived in California!</P>
058a.sgm:<P>When we arrived in Steep Hollow we met returning prospecting parties.  They were a miserable, forlorn-looking lot, half starved and used up.  Like us they had left "good diggings," spent all their money, lost half their animals, and thrown away their tools.  Now they were returning, sick, ragged and hungry, uttering curses loud and heavy on the woman who was author of the swindle.  Three-fourths of these miners were suffering from dysentery, the disease from which thousands of California pioneers died, as the result of poor food, hardship, and exposure incidental to such a life.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It goes without saying that we abandoned our expedition, disillusioned and disheartened; then set about making new plans.  To the time of this writing I have been at a loss to understand the woman's motive for circulating her hoax, which was believed because men's heads and judgment were not entirely level and sound.  Tall tales had affected them so that her magnificent fabrication of falsehood was swallowed without salt.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>We moved our camp east a few miles from the Emigrant Road, and from there made prospecting expeditions to the headwaters of the American and Bear Rivers.  Having heard of the rich finds at Foster's Bar on the Yuba, we continued on there, traveling through wilderness where white men had never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Because of our ignorance of roadcraft and mountain travel, we made hard work of our travels.  Like the King of France, we would march up one side of a mountain, then down the other side, instead of around it, wearing out ourselves and our animals in the process.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>One night, after an unusually hard day, I discovered that my pack horse must be abandoned.  Several days before, he had been cut by the ironshod rocker of a cradle, and a gash six inches long was infected with maggots.  The poor beast seemed to be on his last legs, but I washed and thoroughly cleaned the wound, bound a piece of bacon rind on it with a piece of sacking, and left him in a well watered valley, where there was abundant grass.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>He had been a fine animal, and, as we had been companions night and day for weeks, I was much attached to him.  When traveling, I did not picket him but gave him his freedom.  When he had had his feed he would return to camp and remain near me until he was wanted.  One can imagine my sorrow on abandoning him.  I hoped, but did not expect, to see him again.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>One day, as we were winding around the base of a mountain, shortly after leaving Emigrant Road, the sharp crack of a rifle suddenly broke the stillness.  Its echo had hardly died away when another shot ran forth.  A ball passed through the cradle and perforated the washpan, which was slung to our pack animal.  Nobody was to be seen, nor were there any indications of Indians or whites.  Moreover, the Indian trail we were following had apparently not been traveled that year.  We were nonplused and have been ever since.  Who was the huntsman and what was his motive?</P>
058a.sgm:<P>We had another surprise that day, a pleasant one.  Toward nightfall, turning into a natural roadway or pass, we were astonished to find fresh wagon tracks.  Soon we came upon a camp of seven missionaries, just arrived from their journey across the plains.  In search of grass and water for their poor animals, they had strayed with their two wagons into this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>One of the missionaries showed to Claudius Hoag, one of our party, a quantity of coarse gold which had been found in the creek at the head of the valley, but we had traveled a day's journey before Hoag mentioned the fact to the rest of us.  He was severely taken to task for his stupidity, and some of the party were ready to turn back, but as we had covered many difficult miles, the majority decided to go on.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>We made our way to the forks of the Yuba River and Foster's Bar, prospecting the streams as we went along.  As we knew nothing of dry digging, it never occurred to us to look elsewhere than in beds on the bars and banks of waterways.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>At the Forks we found a tent store that was kept by a man named Winslow, who lay helpless with a broken leg.  His partner, a victim of the scourge, dysentery, lay dead.  Our arrival was most welcome, for we buried the body of the one, and as far as possible made the other comfortable.  Then, replenishing our haversacks, we resumed our way to Foster's Bar.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>There we found a crowd of people who had pre-empted all the ground that looked promising, and as our party had no money with which to buy claims, we started on our return to the Forks and the South Fork of the Yuba.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Another disagreement as to route separated us.  Ralph, a German, and I headed one way; the other five another.  Endeavoring to follow Indian trails, we went astray.  After two days we saw from a high ridge a large river a mile below us, which we believed to be the Yuba.  With difficulty we led our horses down the mountain as far as possible, made them fast on a little bench, and continued on foot.  Ralph agreed to go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>When darkness overtook me I retraced my steps to where we had parted and then began the dangerous ascent to the bench.  To reach solid ground it was necessary to climb an almost perpendicular, 100 foot cliff of loose shale.  I made it, but with cuts and bruises.  Climbing to where the horses were fast, I sat down to await Ralph.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Two hours must have passed, when at last I was overjoyed to hear Ralph's whistle directly beneath the bench.  The whistling continued for half an hour while I shouted myself hoarse in answer.  At length, hearing no more, I concluded he had fallen from the ledge of rocks and hurled to his death on the boulders below.  Never before or since, as the tedious hours dragged their slow length through, have I passed such a night of misery.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I knew that Ralph was the embodiment of stored energy, that difficulty and danger only stimulated him to greater exertion, that to him there was no such word as "fail," and that he had the endurance of an Apache.  Yet in my imagination I could see my wonderful companion lying mangled on the rocks.  What was I to do with his body and his effects?  And how was I to get out of this trackless wilderness alone?  Fears, anxiety, and the howling of coyotes tortured me all the night.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>At the first streak of dawn I began the descent again.  Halting, considerably unnerved, on the little ledge above the cliff, I feared to look down on the horrible picture I had so vividly seen in my mind.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Suddenly a crackling noise broke the stillness.  With bated breath, every function of my body becoming eyes and ears, I watched and listened.  A short distance down river, a moving object stirred the thick underbrush.  Then Ralph appeared!</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Up to that moment I had remained comparatively firm, but now his sudden appearance, alive and well, unmanned me.  I wept like a child.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The joy of that hour will live with me always.  It seemed I had nothing more on earth to ask for.  He was alive; my cup of happiness was full.  I made a rush for him and in my youthful enthusiasm would have hugged him to my heart.  But my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"You damn fool, for what a fire you not make already?  All night in the river you leave me mit cold to die.  Why a fire have you not made?"</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I saw my mistake and confessed my stupidity, but the day passed before he forgave me my blunder.  In my disturbed emotions I had forgotten that while I could hear his signals, coming from below, he could not hear mine, as I was half a mile above him.  Nor had it occurred to me to build a fire.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Having heard nothing from me and seeing no signal fire, he had attempted to cross the river, which was shallow and rapid at that point, to reach fires on the other side which he could see but I could not.  He had slipped off the rocks and been carried down stream a quarter of a mile before he was able to gain the shore.  Half drowned and fearfully bruised, he had lain down on a flat stone, covered his breast with his blouse and haversack, and shivered through the long night.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>My lesson was painfully learned.  By evening I was forgiven for "one damn big fire not making," and having struck a well traveled trail during the day, we soon were back at the Forks.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>We found Winslow, the storekeeper, getting about on crutches, with a man to assist in his tent store.  Replenishing our haversacks again, we continued on to our rendezvous near Steep Hollow.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>There, several days later, we found that our companions had been awaiting us three days.  All of us (except Ralph, whom nothing seemed to affect) were thoroughly used up, for want of food and because of the hardships we had undergone.  An added annoyance at night was the coyotes--bold pests that howled and barked continually and even tugged at our saddles under our heads.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Next day Ralph was off for Sutter's Fort.  I never saw him again, but later I heard he had kept a hotel.  It is safe to assume that he did not keep it for long, for such a restless spirit would ever be eager to be off on a new adventure.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>A few days of rest and food, and we were off again for the South Fork of the Yuba.  There we settled on a small series of bars a mile long.  So steep was the descent to the river that we could not get our animals out over the same route, and accomplished it finally only by working them slowly down stream.  Meantime the long grass on the river banks furnished them abundance of feed.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In this deep gorge, where the sun shone but a few hours of the day, we mined until late in November.  During all that time we did not see another human being, and yet in the mountains above the stream, in a spot where I supposed nobody had ever been, I found in a cleft in a rock a piece of newspaper.  It was a Dublin paper, and on it were these lines by Shelley:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"How beautiful this night!  the balmiest sigh<LB>Which vernal zephyrs breathe in evening's ear<LB>Were discord to the speaking quietude<LB>That wraps this moveless scene."<LB>"Heaven's ebon vault,<LB>Studded with stars unutterably bright,<LB>Through which the moon's unclouded grandeur rolls,<LB>Seems like a canopy which love had spread<LB>To curtain her sleeping world."<LB></HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Evidently someone else had been enchanted with this spot, as was I.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>There was a ranch and store, called French Corral, about 15 miles distant, where Lane had left our animals, but we never visited it until we left for good.  Since our mining was only moderately successful, when the first rains came we left hastily for French Corral.  We had been told that it was dangerous to remain in a canyon during the rainy season, as the river would rise from 20 to 40 feet in a single night--a wall of water which would sweep everything before it.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It was in this location that I made a remarkable find.  Some distance upstream from camp, a large rock in the middle of the river had roused my curiosity.  I determined to investigate it.  One Sunday, a day we always took for rest, I swam out to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>This one was filled with gravel and small cobbles held together by rust.  I broke up the particles with my pick head and washed out nearly two ounces of coarse gold, all as rusty as iron.  It must have been deposited in its remarkable hiding place ages before.  Because it held great interest for me, I have kept some of it, along with my first clean-up on Lacy's Bar.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>When Lane left us at French Corral, he started out to find my old bay, the horse we had abandoned.  Strangely enough he did find him, right where we had left him three months before, but now entirely well and fat as a seal.  We rejoiced, of course.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>At French Corral we were told marvelous tales of rich diggings to be found about Deer Creek and Grass Valley; so we turned our steps that way--and found it to be the identical spot where The Parson had camped in August.  But what a transformation!  The beautiful vale was changed into a busy, ugly mining camp.  Nearly the entire valley had been dug over.  Shafts and holes were scattered over its once smooth grass surface.  A canvas town had sprung up amid the debris and ruins of Dame Nature.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The spot we had christened Grass Valley was now known as Deer Creek.<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
058a.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">And now again as Grass Valley.--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058a.sgm:<P>Over this untold wealth we had passed without a suspicion of the precious deposit literally under our feet.  We had left the golden bed to tramp weary miles, to toil and slave out of sound of fellow man for an ounce or two a day!</P>
058a.sgm:<P>To say we were heartsick, discouraged and bitter at our ill <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>There was much sickness among the miners from the scourge of fever and dysentery, and the fatality rate was high.  That and the fact that our little valley was now covered with claims, plus the nearness of the rainy season, made us decide we had had enough, and we headed south for Sacramento.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Soon after leaving Deer Creek we fell in with two teamsters who had erected a large tent.  At their invitation to share it for the night, we gladly spread our blankets beneath its shelter, for it was raining heavily.  Except for the blue arch of heaven, it was our first covering in months, or since we had left with the mining expedition.  About midnight, however, we awoke to find ourselves in about six inches of water, our blankets dripping.  We were glad to retreat to the shelter of the oxcart.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Morning revealed that the tent had been set up over a bowl-shaped hollow, and all the water that was shed from the canvas flowed directly into the tent.  This was our first and last night under such a shelter.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Arriving at Sacramento, we placed our animals--four horses and three mules--on the little peninsula called Boston, formed by the junction of the Sacramento and American Rivers and the slough.  By building a brush fence about 40 rods long, we secured them in good quarters with plenty of feed.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>That night we enjoyed the privilege, with 50 others, at a dollar a head, of spreading our blankets on the barroom floor of the United States Hotel.  Packed together like sardines, we were insured warmth as an offset to other discomforts.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Dan Lane and I parted company in Sacramento, he to go to New York via Panama on the bark <HI REND="italics">Brontes</HI>
058a.sgm:, then lying at Sacramento, to complete his apprenticeship with the New York pilots.  As his leave had expired, he resolved to return to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>He and I owned seven animals over in "Boston," and he suggested that I buy his interest for six ounces of gold.  I replied that I was done with horses and mules and never cared to see another, that he could have my half to do with as he pleased.  He persisted, and the upshot was that he talked me out of the six ounces.  Even "Big Bay," the horse we had abandoned and then rescued, and of which I was very fond, I abandoned again.  Hard times make hard decisions.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Meantime, poor Captain Simmons had contracted poison oak to a serious degree.  His body swelled so badly that on our return to Sacramento we found him at death's door.  Making a bed of boughs and brush in an oxcart, we placed him in it and shipped him to Sutter's  Fort for medical treatment.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Michael Fitz Simmons must have been born under an unlucky star.  Though I never saw him again, I learned that he prospered for a time in San Francisco, where he bought up all the deserted whaleboats in the bay and then rented them out.  Bad luck trailed him, for the first norther of the winter knocked his boats into splinters on the rocks off Clark's Point.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Later he went to Sydney, purchased a cargo of potatoes and returned.  On the very day of his arrival home, in an altercation with the ship's surgeon, he was stabbed to the heart and instantly killed.  So ended the fantastic career of a colorful old salt.</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter 3</HEAD>
058a.sgm:<P>THE MORNING FOLLOWING Dan Lane's departure for New York, I purchased the <HI REND="italics">Gazelle</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>We made a trip to San Francisco Bay and returned with a full cargo.  We netted $6,500, and this within three weeks' time--which, in our opinion, was better than mining.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Another thrill at this time was finding, while wading knee-deep in mud on Front Street, Sacramento, an old schoolfellow, Hooper Sheldon.  We took him to San Francisco in our boat.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Not all trips in the <HI REND="italics">Gazelle</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"Stuck on the hogback" was a common experience for those ships plying between San Francisco and Sacramento, for both "windjammers" and steamers carrying mail and the wealth of the mines ran onto the sand bars in that old river.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>An experience around Christmas, 1849, and New Year's, 1850, will illustrate.  I had taken on a load of wood on the American River, and because of rising water (it rained incessantly) was obliged to drop down off Sacramento, where I came to anchor about sunset.  I saw the town adrift and afloat.  Some shanties were capsized, floating at angles through the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>I took a boat for the shore and had no sooner reached there than I was nearly swamped by desperate people wading through mud and deep water to reach the boat.  The river bank was piled with boxes and bales of goods of every description.  To add horror to the scene of general misery, half the population were victims of hunger and the ever-present sickness, dysentery, and death was taking a large toll.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Three times I attempted to land, and each time was nearly swamped by the rush of frantic people for the boat.  When no more could crowd in, some of them even clung to its sides.  I abandoned the idea of landing, upped anchor and drifted away in the darkness from the heart-rending scene.  Our decks were overloaded by those who scrambled aboard and by our freight, which covered deck and hold, leaving no accommodations for passengers.  Nor were we provisioned for any extras.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Just before daylight, Christmas morning, I drifted broad-side onto an island, covered with tall sycamore trees, that stood at the head of the slough.  (No vestige of such an island has been visible for many years.)  Our vessel was drawing 12 feet of water, and we were broadside to the tide, which was running fast.  Our hold and deck were filled with wood, except for an opening for the man at the wheel, and our small cabin was crowded with passengers with neither food nor bedding.  We discharged the deckload of wood, giving some relief to the passengers if not to the vessel</P>
058a.sgm:<P>That afternoon the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
058a.sgm: from New York, making the trip from San Francisco to Sacramento, while attempting to pass, was borne down upon us by the irresistible tide of the main river.  Our jibboom rammed her wheelhouse full length, snapping off at the bowsprit cap, winding her foretopmast stay around the wheel shaft of the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
058a.sgm:.  The topmast bent like a whipstaff and was carried away at the masthead.  It described several circles in the air, passed outside the main rigging and descended end foremost through the companion hatch, remaining upright in the cabin deck.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>The next day, as if to add insult to injury, the steamship <HI REND="italics">McKimm</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">McKimm</HI>
058a.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>After we had discharged most of our cargo, the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
058a.sgm: made a final and successful attempt to pull us off.  It was then New Year's Day--1850!  Two days later we landed at Benicia, the first bit of terra firma we could reach.  There I landed most of my uninvited guests, some 50 or 60 as forlorn-looking wretches as ever walked ashore in a mud bank.  Some never survived their experience.  One of the passengers, a Mr. Hutchings, who had become a mere bundle of bones, I put on board the <HI REND="italics">Mary Ellen</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>In later years I met Mr. Hutchings several times and we talked over our experiences on the Sacramento.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>At sea there is something sublime in riding out a storm.  The cockleshell that man has presumed to thrust between the great forces of nature and himself would seem to be utterly crushed and overwhelmed by the warfare of the elements raging around it.  Nevertheless, man and his cockleshell generally manage to pull through.  This experience on the river, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Life was adventurous and hard.  My last trip to and from Sacramento involved two near-tragedies.  Because of the scar-city of seamen, I picked up a crew of "Sydney Ducks," or Australian ticket-of-leave men.  At Sacramento they refused to discharge cargo.  After giving them due notice, I employed men from the levee at $12 a day to take their places.  The Australians made threats against me.  Knowing well what type of men I had to deal with, I settled with them pistol in hand.  Later, after we had gotten under way and I was at the wheel, several shots were fired at me from under cover of the wooded banks.  The shots missed me and passed through the mainsail.  I could not see my assailants, but I knew my late crew were endeavoring to "square the yards" with me.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Not long afterwards, coming down the river, our vessel fouled with a big sycamore.  I took an ax up the tree to cut away a large limb.  The limb gave way, and down I plunged with it, head foremost, striking the rail of the vessel and falling stunned into the river.  After sinking twice, I was fished out and hauled aboard more dead than alive.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Often have I pondered over my escape, convinced that a little cherub sits aloft, watching over poor Jack!</P>
058a.sgm:<P>To recall and write of these incidents is pastime now, but then they were grim events indeed.  My experience was that of most of the gold seekers.  While the few made fortunes, the majority went through tragic experiences similar to my own.  The flotsam and jetsam that crowded the cities, having lost the little they brought, were reduced to living by their wits, and not always were the wits good.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Difficulties of freighting on the river, including trouble with boats, men, and the elements, played no small part in my determination to abandon that trade and turn my efforts in another direction.  Also, larger, steam-propelled vessels put us windjammers in the background, for steamers were not retarded by adverse tides and winds, although they, too, sometimes failed to clear the hogback in the river.  Another factor involved was our miserable health.  All of us, as the result of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>I had experienced such rains, floods and mass evacuation in my shipping on the river the winter previous, but being at sea I did not know at that time (1850) that it was here that my father, Charles H. Ellis [See <HI REND="italics">California Gold Rush Voyages</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>On my return to San Francisco another uncle and his son succumbed to it.  It took me all day to get through the sand roads to the graveyard and return to Bay State Row.  The burial ground on Market Street where the City Hall now stands (1904) was full of water.  Uncle Thomas built Bay State Row, but Ellis Street is a better memorial to the Clan of whom there were many who came to California.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I decided to return to the sea, with its fascination and its good returns for one's labor.  My years of experience from boy-hood up had taught me that freighting by water was the cheapest kind of transportation and that there was money to be earned as long as there was freight to be moved and as long as supplies were the dominant need in this undeveloped country.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>And so I turned my eyes to the trade of the Coast and the Sandwich Islands.  Ports in Mexico, on the Gulf of California and in Lower California were readily accessible and offered various products for export which were needed in the Gold Rush days.  So after buying the brig <HI REND="italics">John Dunlop</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>My cargoes were varied: Passengers, shipwrecked crews, provisions (from onions and potatoes to flour, spice, coffee and sugar), even cats!  I shall tell about the cats later.  Off Monterey, on one voyage, I picked up many bags of flour, jettisoned, probably, but good for immediate use.  In my own vessel I was most successful in this coast and island trade, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Excerpts from a letter I wrote my mother from San Francisco on October 28, 1850, will tell of other experiences which quickly matured a 21-year-old boy:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"After a voyage of three months, I arrived here yesterday, from Oyster and Markie Islands in the South Pacific, with a cargo of fruit, pigs, poultry and other products too numerous to mention.  I wrote to you after my voyage to the Sandwich Islands, but did not inform you of this voyage, thinking it might worry you.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Yesterday, the day we arrived, was a day of great celebration, marking California's admission into the Union as a state.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>[Note--After President Fillmore signed his approval of statehood for California, September 9, 1850, the news did not reach San Francisco for over a month.  Signal arms on Telegraph Hill announced the coming of the mail steamship <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"It was as grand an affair as I ever beheld, equally as interesting as any Fourth of July I ever witnessed, but I have not time to give you all the particulars.  I refer you to the public  journals.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"The day closed mournfully enough, and it was my painful duty to assist saving survivors of a terrible catastrophe.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"About five o'clock in the afternoon, I was standing on the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"The steamer <HI REND="italics">Sagamore</HI>
058a.sgm:, about the size of your Kennebec steamers, crowded with over 150 passengers, was leaving the dock for Stockton when the boilers burst.  The boat was splintered to atoms and sank to the bottom, leaving the water dyed with human blood, and dotted with arms, legs, and trunks of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"Darkness closed over the scene before all was over and the human fragments gathered into barrels.  I hope never to behold again such a sight, but am thankful that I was made an instrument to assist the survivors.  One man had embarked on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
058a.sgm: two days before and she had gone to the bottom, no one knowing how many lives were lost.  He tried again on the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"I am sorry to inform you that cholera has made its appearance in our state.  There are a few cases in our city, but it can never obtain a strong hold here, because of the strong daily sea breezes."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>During my voyages I met with many interesting and sometimes dangerous experiences.  It was in 1851 that I took a party of passengers, including a tough lot of miners 'tween decks, 45 in all, to Mazatlan.  They were mostly Southerners headed for Texas by way of Mexico.  Arriving at Mazatlan, we found that cholera was raging.  The wheat crop in the State of Sonoma had failed and famine was abroad.  In its wake thousands of victims died of the plague.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>My passengers were imprudent, indulging in excesses of many kinds.  As a result, 17 of them died before the party left the plague-stricken city, and probably more died before they got home.  I had an attack myself.  While I was confined to my room in the home of Dr. Bevans, to whom I had brought a cargo of drugs, news of the number of dead gathered from the streets, and of the deaths of my passengers, would be brought to me daily.  Dr. Bevans was an old mountaineer and trapper who had settled in Mazatlan 25 years before.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Ned Bevans, a nephew of the doctor, was very ill and given up by the doctor, for after the cramps had subsided he collapsed. But after the doctor's aide had poured a bottle of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>In my illness I was provided with a nurse girl, Trellisfera Salico by name.  Coming in after an errand outside, she was apparently as well as usual, but in half an hour she was rolling on the floor in mortal agony.  That same afternoon she was carried out dead.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>James Gill, manager of the estate for Dr. Bevans, lived through the plague, only to die of sunstroke while riding horseback from Mazatlan to San Blas.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Practically none of the Mexican ports on the Pacific had harbors. Vessels had to stand off shore in open roadsteads and run small boats ashore with passengers and freight.  La Paz was such a port.  It was while at anchor there off a small, rockbound cove, awaiting a cargo of onions and other products, that I had a thrilling and fearful experience.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Mr. Campbell, a passenger, rode down with me to the boat landing, where I set the usual signal for the boat, hoisting a flag.  It had been our habit to take a swim in the cove while awaiting the boat.  We knew that sharks abounded on the coast, but as none had ever appeared in the cove, I plunged in as usual.  Mr. Campbell declined to take a dip.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I swam about until the boat neared the entrance to the cove, when the whim seized me to swim out to meet her.  Reaching the entrance, I turned to meet the boat broadside on, when I heard Campbell shout, "Sharks! Sharks!"  Then he leaped up and ran for the beach.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I was abeam and two fathoms (12 feet) distant from the boat when Tom Woolwich, later captain of the port, who was steering with a long oar, lifted it and threw it overboard, hoping to distract the sharks' attention from me.  One of the oarsmen did the same, while I made three or four long, hard strokes, enabling me to place my hands on the gunnel of the boat.  Exerting more than usual strength, I flopped into the boat, just as three huge sharks set the water in a foam and passed under us.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Woolwich sank back in the stern sheets as white as a ghost, terrified and helpless as an infant.  I laughed at him as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>In the same year, 1851, I was lying in the harbor of acapulco when word was received of the wreck of the <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>The fact was, the <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>On the beach lay an abandoned bark that had been built in and had sailed from Cincinnati, down the Ohio and the Mississippi, through the Gulf of Mexico and around South America.  She was the only ship that attempted that route from so far inland, a long passage.  After touching at Panama, she was 90 days making Acapulco.  As she was not coppered, she had been eaten badly by teredo worms, and of course was leaking badly.  Also, she was out of water and provisions. A floating coffin, she had lost a third of her crew and passengers during the voyage.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>From this wreck I took mahogany ceiling planks and fitted up berths and water tanks.  The water in the tanks became bad and caused some dysentery, but "Dr." Jaby Waters and the medicine chest patched them up, and we lost none of our passengers en voyage to San Francisco.  On the other rescue ships there were a number of deaths.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>(Jaby Waters was an old schoolmate.  He had lost one hand and was ill, so I took him along for his health.  The title of "Doctor" was my own idea.)</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Ten days out, we were 10&deg; south of Acapulco, and this position becoming known to some of the passengers, they held the usual indignation meeting indulged in by landsmen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Mutterings, complaints and all but open mutiny went on for several days, when fortunately the wind gradually hauled, and the vessel headed north, bowling along with the trade winds.  We ran alongside Long Wharf without letting go anchor and landed every man in good health, only 35 days out from Acapulco.  It was an excellent record.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>These people had sailed in midwinter, and the dreadful heat of the tropics, the change of diet, the lack of restrictions as to indulgences, and the inadequate exercise had laid them open to the epidemic of cholera that was raging the length of the coast.  Though I had a full crew, the consul, Captain Rice, forced me to take two of the shipwrecked crew aboard.  One of these men I made mate.  I never received anything from the government for this service, for Thuller and Sanger of the steamship line entered suit against Clapp &amp; Co., my charterers, and won the suit, under a law of the United States providing for the relief of destitute sailors.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The cargo of onions was a bad investment for my charterers, but the cats from Acapulco did better.  I sold them at $1 per animal in rat-ridden San Francisco.  The rats in the city had become a menace, not only because they were destroying food, but because they were vicious and had bitten several persons.  No doubt they swam ashore, except where hawsers, connecting ship and shore, provided runways.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Bringing produce from the interior of Mexico was difficult.  The onions referred to above (from Guadalajara), fruit, flour, beans, dried and smoked meats, sugar, and coffee had to be transported in crates of 100 pounds on the backs of mules over mountain trails from the inland valleys to the coast.  There were no roads.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>When I, with my 100 words of Spanish, attempted to tell the natives about railroads, saying they were "ships that ran on wheels on the land," I was discredited and accounted the gringo Munchausen.</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Heat and humidity probably accounted for the losses in some merchandise.  Miners' supplies came mostly from South America, because, for a time after Sutter's Fort was abandoned, there was no more manufacturing of machinery and tools in California.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I accepted commissions for freight from any port and for any articles.  Bringing oranges from Loretta, I bought wrapping paper from a priest.  These papers proved to be church records of births, deaths, and marriages of the district parishioners.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>One of my charterers was a Mr. Pierce from Bombay, India, an indigo planter who sold his plantation for 60,000-pounds, and brought $300,000 to San Francisco.  In San Francisco he became a drunkard and, figuratively speaking, died in the gutter, leaving his widow, one of the most beautiful women I ever saw, entirely dependent on friends.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Since most of my trade was chartered, I ran no risk, but I made more money when I carried my own cargo.  On one trip chartered by Clapp &amp; Winslow I took a general cargo from Mazatlan, including some wine and liquor.  My steward was a Negro named Paris O'Rea.  During the voyage he broached an $18 case of brandy, and followed that with English ale.  Of course we found him drunk in his bunk with a dozen empty bottles.  For safety's sake we secured him spread-eagle, but he escaped from the brig and swam ashore.  A year later, in San Francisco, he was arrested, and my friend Sam Harding, constable, fined him $100 for the ropes which he had cut to escape.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>There was a good deal of smuggling going on, and through some women passengers aboard my ship I became involved in it.  The United States and English consuls were very helpful in time of need, as were the captains of port.  The Mexican Government was all for getting out of such incidents all the duties and fines that were possible.  Baron Forbes &amp; Co. of Tepic and Guadalajara, kings of production in that area, played host to me for two months as a "safety" measure.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In those days, smuggling was considered a just and moral business in Mexico and indeed in all Spanish-American states.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Ten years' imprisonment, plus heavy fines, were the penalties imposed on a ship's master for smuggling.  The guilty parties, Schendorff, a Hungarian (who had picked up Spanish in a month's time), Campbell and Hogan, disappeared.  The latter went into Sonoma, Mexico, in the interior, and was never heard from again.  Hogan and the Hungarian were sent to prison in San Francisco.  Later, Schendorff, a hot-headed fellow, killed a Chinaman, Hop Ken, in San Francisco.  On one occasion I salvaged a cask of Jamaica rum, covered with grass and barnacles, from a derelict off the Mexican coast.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The brig <HI REND="italics">Fortune</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Like everyone else, I found the Sandwich Islands fascinating and the amphibious natives a curiosity.  Their water feats, of surf-riding, diving through the great rolling konas and from 100 foot cliffs into the sea, their sailing and rowing in their native dugout canoes with outriggers, were amazing.  My boat, swept by a kona onto a coral reef, had her bow stove in.  I had it repaired by Campbell of Lahina, the coffee port.  Campbell made a fortune there in sugar.  Later, in San Francisco, he was kidnaped and held four days.  His kidnaper was apprehended and sentenced to 20 years in prison.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>While waiting for the repairs on my boat, I lost my watch in 20 fathoms (120 feet) of water.  It was recovered by one of the natives.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In 1890 I revisited the Islands with my daughter Lucy and identified old ports and scenes.</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter 4</HEAD>
058a.sgm:<P>I HAD DONE well in my freight and passenger shipping, and now I looked forward to the time when I could return to Boston and claim the girl I left behind me.  But I could not follow the sea and leave her meanwhile in the rough, frontier city of San Francisco, with all its hardships.  Marriage would mean I must give up the sea.  I had attained one ambition:  I was master and owner of my vessel.  Why not pursue another ambition on shore, where I could have a family life?</P>
058a.sgm:<P>So it was, in 1853, that I went on to Boston and married Elizabeth Capen.  Shortly after, we sailed for California on a long, hard passage with about 200 other brides and grooms, across the Isthmus via Nicaragua.  When at last we arrived in California, I sold my vessel, and with the money made some investments which proved to be unfortunate.  One of these was the building of a trading post at Humboldt Bay, from which we operated a pack train to the Trinity mines.  My partners were Captain Miller (who had sailed with me as mate, and whose daughter later married our eldest son, Harry) and Edward Sanger, another friend.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The failure of this enterprise, together with the rascality of another business associate, my partner in the transportation of stone from Monterey for the construction of Fort Point, San Francisco, crippled me financially, and induced me to make assignment to my agents, Mason, Durand &amp; Co.  I was left without a dollar, with a wife, and with a baby in the offing.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Though I had seen a competency melt away in a few months' time, my determination and energy were undaunted.  Since I had decided to live ashore, I fell back on first principles:  manual labor at whatever came to hand.  It was not easy.  Shore duties proved hard for me after spending all my time aboard ship for five years, and before that having stolen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>I worked in a lumber yard and a furniture warehouse.  I outfitted vessels.  I carried newspapers.  I did a little of everything, and my labor was well paid.  Three times I lost all I had accumulated, but through it all my wife and I were optimistic.  I just worked harder and longer.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
058a.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">Mother often spoke of the times when the going was hard and the cupboard pretty bare.  "Several times your father picked up gold coins from the street," she told us, "and they were godsends indeed."  I do not remember that she mentioned the value of the coins, but probably it was not large.  Gold coins were common currency.  Silver dollars were unknown, and there was no paper money on the coast for many years.  Some of the $50 gold slugs of the period that found their way east were to many men strong inducements to join the gold-seekers.--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058a.sgm:<P>In September, 1854, I wrote to my mother:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"On Thursday the 27th we met with an accident.  However, fortunately, no damage was done.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Our house was being lowered to the grade of the street when the underpinning gave way, letting the house fall about eight feet into the street.  The house was smashed up, but Lizzie and the baby were not hurt in the slightest degree.  Lizzie was upstairs in her chamber, with the baby in her lap, just ready to put it into its morning bath, when the house fell. Lizzie was not a bit frightened, but took some pains and time to hunt up something to wrap up the baby.  And the baby did not even cry.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"We will not lose anything, for the landlord makes our loss good. About $50, furniture and dishes, all that was broken.  We will be settled in three or four days."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I will add this line written in another letter:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Lizzie was not only perfectly calm, but on going to the door, she quietly asked, `Is anyone hurt?'  The workmen, frightened for her, were speechless with amazement."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Another incident proved me to be an amphibious creature, not to be drowned.  While I was stowing lumber in a scow alongside a large ship in San Francisco Bay, an unusually long board came over the side.  As I walked backward, stepping upon a single board, it snapped off and I went down the weather end of the lighter.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>As the tide was running a strong ebb, I knew that if I failed to catch the end of the board when I emerged from under the lighter, I should be chilled to death before making <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Another time, in the Bay of Monterey, where I was loading stone for Fort Point, San Francisco, I attempted to land in a heavy surf in a yawl with four oarsmen.  I was steering with a long oar.  We were caught by an outer roller, and the boat fairly ended over, but without breaching to.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I came to the surface near Scotty, a beachcomber and one of the four oarsmen.  I asked him if we should make for the boat or the shore, but got no reply.  He was half strangled.  Realizing just then that a heavy roller was about to break behind me, I remembered my experiences on coral reefs and was afraid that I would be taken down by the comber and ground up on the bottom.  I let myself down, therefore, and the comber passed over me.  When I came out on the other side, I noticed that the distance between Scotty and me had greatly increased.  I hailed him again, and he told me to swim for the land.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Around my waist I wore a long Spanish <HI REND="italics">banda</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>I managed to get clear of the <HI REND="italics">banda</HI>
058a.sgm:, my boots, and pants, but even then could make no progress toward the shore, for, though I was a good swimmer, the heavy undertow was taking me out as fast as I could swim in.  There I was, held in the outer rollers, exhausting my strength and realizing I could hold out but a short time longer.  When the next roller came I knew my only chance was to try keeping afloat instead of submerging, and let the roller push me toward shore.  This it did, but with such speed that I was half drowned when I finally got a footing, and when I got on shore I could not stand.  Scotty, who had reached shore long before I did, came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>I remember how troubled I was because my underdrawers were green instead of white.  Then the color faded to black, and I knew no more for the next hour.  The other three crewmen were never found.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It may be in order here to indulge briefly in a retrospect of the days of '49 and what followed upon the great tidal wave of the human sea that overflowed this then practically unknown shore of California.  I quote in part from an address I gave in 1894 before the Pioneer Society in San Francisco</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"California came to us by the strongest of all measures, the fortune of war.  After our conquest of Mexico, we paid $15,000,000 for what belonged to us by the law of nations.  In the world's history no parallel case can be found.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Since the migration of the Children of Israel, there was never such an exodus out of all lands as was seen in the year 1849.  Prior to that time, a few whale ships from Nantucket had made voyage to Yerba Buena, or San Francisco.  A dozen or two huts and two or three adobe buildings near the bay shore constituted the town.  Fifty years later that little hamlet had grown to a city of 350,000 souls, famous the world over.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Marshall's discovery of gold set the world ablaze.  Ships from every port in the world poured their living flood upon the golden shore of California.  At one time more than a thousand ships rode at anchor in our grand bay.  Very few could get away, owing to the crews' leaving for the `diggins.'  Many of the officers also took French leave.  Many vessels were quite abandoned and many never left port.  Some were hauled upon the mud flats and converted into storeships, lodging houses, saloons, etc., as for example the <HI REND="italics">Apollo</HI>
058a.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Tamaroo</HI>
058a.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
058a.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Susan Drew</HI>
058a.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Euphemia</HI>
058a.sgm: (later the prison brig, <HI REND="italics">Oporto</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"Later on, many vessels could be seen surrounded by streets, filled in by leveling the sand hills.  Never before was seen the spectacle of ships, other than phantom ships, looming up in the heart of a city.  Battery Street to this day is paved--not on the surface, but at the bottom--with hulls of vessels.</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"In 1851 I filled my water cask from the first artesian well bored in California, under the stern of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"Thousands of men and one or two hundred women from Mexico, Honolulu and Spanish America, whose presence was anything but elevating to the reckless, cosmopolitan population, could be seen night and day at the general meeting places:  gambling saloons.  Of homes there were none.  Men lived on hulks of ships, in canvas tents and board shanties; others in their blankets wherever night overtook them.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Goods were heaped in huge piles on the streets and vacant lots.  Currency was coin and gold dust.  Everything near the size of our dollars, halves and quarters passed without question.  High boots cost from $30 to $100 a pair (and everybody wore them).  Flour sold at $40 a barrel; saleratus for equal weight in gold dust.  It was economy to buy new shirts instead of washing old ones, as washing cost from $12 to $20 for a dozen pieces.  Fifty vara water and sand lots increased from $12 to $10,000.  When buildings were finally erected, rents were enormous.  The Parker House opposite the Plaza brought $120,000, the Miners' Bank $75,000, the El Dorado $40,000 per annum.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"The gambling houses were gorgeous in decorations, mirrors and paintings.  Fine music was given by skilled musicians.  Women acted as cashiers (croupiers) at the gaming tables, and every game of chance known was played.  I saw Briant, who ran for Sheriff, stake $10,000 on the turn of a card.  He lost.  The tables groaned under the weight of the golden piles heaped upon them.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"The better class of gambling houses were admirably conducted and quiet.  Drunken men were thrown out.  The choicest of wines and liquors were served with suppers.  Low class <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"Hundreds of professional men were obliged to turn their hands to manual labor for the first time in their lives, and every man was as good as, or better than, his neighbor.  Preachers became waiters; doctors, cooks; lawyers, faro dealers.  Carpenters' wages were $15 a day; laborers', $10.  At night the entire population assembled at the gaming halls to enjoy fine music and to look up friends, but mostly to woo fickle Fortune.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"A band of ticket-of-leave men, or Sydney Ducks, from the convict settlements of Australia, together with criminals from all lands, organized for plunder.  They called themselves the `Hounds,' and later the `Regulators.'  All were public robbers, with their worldly estates on their backs-- and their purse was every honest man's pocket!  They paraded the streets with fife and drum, armed to the teeth, and they robbed at night.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Their murders and robberies became so bold and freqent that the citizens called a meeting on the Plaza (at that time used as a corral, horse market, and general stamping ground).  They appointed my cousin, A. I. Ellis, sheriff with 230 constables under him. Many of the Regulators were arrested and put on board the warship <HI REND="italics">Warner</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"That winter of '49 was very severe for rain fell in torrents and continuously.  Streets became quagmires.  Horses and mules were lost in the unfathomed depths of Montgomery Street."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>This was the crude city where we were to make our home.  Come weal, come woe, I was henceforth to be identified with San Francisco. I believe I participated in, or was an observer of, all the major events of the exciting period of the city's great development. Moreover, as a member, and later Chief, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>It was in 1855 that I was appointed a member of the police force.  Since childhood I had been a student of men, and at last I had come into my own.  I could glance at a man and instantly note his characteristics of countenance, manner, dress, and carriage, and could recognize a person from his back as readily as from his face.  This was a valuable asset in the game I was to follow.  Long a reader of Charles Dickens, I had studied his keen analysis of character.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Early in my detective work a San Francisco newspaper said of me:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Henry H. Ellis, one of the sharpest detective policemen of San Francisco, has recently unraveled a carefully conceived swindling transaction, greatly to the satisfaction of all honest men and the admiration of his friends."<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
058a.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">Years later, in 1909, when my father died, another newspaper said of him:<LB>"He figured actively in most of the criminal cases, not alone in San Francisco, but also in all sections of the state and our neighbors both north and south and over our country.  That was at a time when crime and criminals were rampant and desperate, and officers were daily called upon to show the physical and moral stuff of which they were made.  It may be said that he helped build the state and was proud of the part he had played."--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058a.sgm:<P>It was in June, 1851, before I had joined the police force, that the first Vigilance Committee was organized.  I had become a member of that committee, had participated in its activities, and had been one of the men who affixed their signatures to its constitution.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I should like to emphasize that the Vigilance Committees of 1851 and 1856 were not composed of ruffians.  On the contrary, their membership included most of the good, solid citizens of San Francisco.  The members were serious and thoughtful, and the committee activities were for the most part supported by the constituted authorities.  Indeed, during the existence of the Vigilance Committee of 1856, I was a member of the police force--yet was in full sympathy with the committee's objectives.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>After my first appointment to the force, I did not have to wait long to see action.  In November, 1855, U. S. Marshal William H. Richardson was murdered by the gambler Charles Cora, but because Cora was wealthy and a man of influence, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>It was at this juncture that James King ("of William"), editor of the <HI REND="italics">Daily Evening Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>The shooting of King--whose editorial courage had made him a hero--resulted in an immediate outburst of popular indignation.  Casey was hustled away to jail, and I was one of the officers delegated to guard him.  But the rapidly swelling crowd, intent on lynching Casey, made it evident that he would have to be moved to a better protected building.  We rushed him to the county jail, then placed ourselves on guard on the jail steps, where we were subjected to insults and threats from the mob.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In the midst of mounting excitement, the Vigilance Committee of 1856 was born and James King died, six days after the shooting.  His death intensified the resentment against both Cora and Casey.  They were tried before the committee, found guilty, and hanged--on the very day and at the hour of King's funeral.</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter 5</HEAD>
058a.sgm:<P>THE 22 YEARS (1855 to 1877) that I spent on the police force were spectacular in the growth of the city.  The mention of a few case records will show the development in crime and the organizations formed to combat it.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>When I joined the force it was a body of only 50 men; at my retirement as Chief there were over 150 regular police officers and 300 specially appointed men.  At no time was the force adequate to combat the depraved members of society who flocked to this haven of easy riches.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Let me try to give some idea of the range of cases I worked on.  I cannot include all; they would fill a volume.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Theft" included everything from petty larceny to grand larceny, from pickpockets to horse thieves, from bank robberies to piracy; "Murders" everything from children to adults, in high and low places, on land and sea; "Confidence Games" everything from gold dust to gold bricks, embezzlement, forgery, and counterfeiting.  And always there was the "Chinese Question," a problem in murder, gambling, assault, theft, smuggling, prostitution, and disease.  A perhaps equally difficult problem was "Hoodlumism," which had grown with the years:  young scoundrels who defied the law and officers of the law, and who indulged in most of the crimes of the calendar.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It was into this maelstrom of ambition, despair, mental and physical disease, perversion and scum that I was launched at the age of 26.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Counterfeiting, forgery and confidence games of all kinds required more time, patience and skill to expose than did other crimes.  Many such were thrown into my lap.  I shall cite one case.  It became known to Chief of Police Burke that a quantity of bogus coin and greenbacks was afloat in San Francisco, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>It was a month before we spotted our suspect, by name William Farrel, lately returned from the east, bringing $10,000 in bogus coin and $500 in greenbacks.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Lees and I employed a "decoy duck" whom we named Smith, known as a sport and not too dependable, but who would appeal to Farrel.  Smith managed to meet Farrel, won his confidence, representing himself as one of the "brotherhood," and bought $100 worth of "queer" for a double eagle (a $20 gold piece).  Later Smith bought more bogus money, in both coin and paper money, which gave us the evidence we wanted to convict Farrel.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>But Smith was now under suspicion by the regular police as a companion of Farrel, and under advice of attorney and judge, Lees and I delayed revealing his true identity.  We then brought into the case a new man, whom we called Crawford.  Crawford represented himself as a friend of Smith, a "koinicker" and jailbird who had had his wits sharpened by solitary meditation, coarse fare and hard work in the east.  He was en route to Idaho and new fields and wished to purchase some queer for which he would pay well in watches and jewelry brought from the east.  Actually Robert Crawford was a private clerk and friend of Chief Burke.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Farrel queried Smith about Crawford, but Smith cunningly replied that he would not lie to him, and certainly would not tell him the truth, for in his business it was necessary to keep secrets.  Farrel had his spies watching Crawford, but as he and Smith were in constant company, frequenting gambling halls and other questionable places, Farrel concluded that Crawford was all right and consented to give him the coin.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>At their next meeting Crawford showed him a steamship ticket for Portland, on a vessel sailing next day, and over a game of cards "stolen" jewelry was exchanged for $1400 in bogus coin.  On the day following, Farrel accompanied Crawford to the steamer and saw him off.  Crawford immediately changed his clothes, removing his disguise, and was put ashore at Fort Point.  Two days later Farrel was arrested <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"Crawford!" said Captain Lees.  "I have heard of that man and am eager to catch him."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"But he took the steamer for Oregon," said Farrel.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Maybe, but I think a man of that description is under arrest now," said Lees; whereupon I was sent out to investigate, and in a rather rough manner brought Crawford in.  Farrel claimed that Crawford had sold him the watches, while Crawford claimed that Farrel had paid him in queer and had lots of it on hand.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Still playing his part, Crawford was taken off, to the pretended indignation of Lees and me.  Farrel was willing to testify against Crawford, and Lees convinced him it would be to his best interest to relinquish the coin and surrender himself.  Farrel revealed a "plant" of coin in the sand hills, but on digging for it we discovered it had been removed, by an "accomplice."  Farrel tried to escape, but Lees' pistol dissuaded him, and Farrel thereupon revealed the true location of the queer.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The game was won.  Farrel realized he had been outwitted.  He was tried and sentenced to six years in prison.  "Smith" abandoned his shady companions, went east, and occupied a respectable position in business and society.  "Crawford" resumed his clerkship for Chief Burke.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In the case just related the actor was really a "fence" for a counterfeiter, but in the next one we shall see a genuine counterfeiter at work.  Then a captain, I was able to prevent two Chinamen from flooding San Francisco with $37,000 worth of bogus bank notes on the chartered bank of India, Australia and China, one of the most extensive and clever forgeries ever consummated in this city.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Two natives of the Flowery Kingdom, leading spirits in the transaction, with lithographic plates, finished and unfinished notes, paging machines, and other equipment, had been captured just in time to prevent their escape to China.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It was a curious coincidence in my routine life that first gave intimation of the bold scheme.  Having occasion to visit an engraver on a personal matter, I was shown some fine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>The engraver stated that the order had been given by a Chinaman wishing only the figure 5, which he wished to use on a brand of fine tea.  Later, the Chinaman had said, he might use the dollar sign as a price mark.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I pondered the matter, intuitively feeling there was crooked work and something more in the wind than the scent of tea.  After consulting my chief, I was given orders to ferret out the matter.  In my investigation I discovered that several other lithographers had made similar dies and that George D. Baker's establishment was then at work on a series of bank notes ordered by a Chinaman, Ah Tuck.  Baker had questioned Ah Tuck about his authority for ordering the notes.  Ah Tuck claimed that his father, one of the directors of the Bank of India, wanted to learn if the work could be as well done in California as in London.  Ah Tuck claimed he had consulted a lawyer who told him the work was legal.  Thereupon Baker had begun the work.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Ah Tuck frequently came to examine the work as it progressed.  On discovering any discrepancy he would become excited, criticizing Baker and threatening him.  One day when I was calling on Baker for further information, the door was suddenly thrown open and Ah Tuck entered.  I left immediately, whereupon Ah Tuck questioned Baker about his visitor.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Just a customer for whom I have done some work," said Baker.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Pointing to one of the notes on the table, Ah Tuck demanded, "Did he see this?"</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"No, no, he didn't see that."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The Chinaman seemed satisfied, grumbling, "Very well, but I want you to know I will not put up with any treachery."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I detailed officers to shadow Ah Tuck and his confederate, Ah Sam, at the same time laying the conspiracy before the officers of the Bank of California.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The man behind the scene was found to be a Chinaman in London named No How King.  Through Ah Tuck he had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Correspondence between Ah Tuck and No How King revealed the difficulties they had encountered in securing paper that would produce good impressions.  Finally they had brought paper from England, and also from there a machine that would do the work, the only machine in the United States being in official use in Washington.<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
058a.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">The heading at the top of one of these letters is interesting:  "Eleventh day of eleventh moon, eighth of Tong-Chee."  In other words, December 8, 1869.--H.H.E.</NOTE>
058a.sgm:<P>Shadowed by the police, Baker delivered to Ah Sam 1,242 counterfeit bills.  Ah Tuck appeared shortly, demanding the notes and copper plates and threatening to shoot Baker if he did not recover them from Ah Sam.  Whereupon Baker made his exit through a rear door and reported to the police.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>While this was going on, Chief Crowley and I appropriated the first buggy we came to and followed Ah Sam to the place where the Chinaman lived.  Feigning sickness and ignorance of the English language, Ah Sam was stretched upon a bed.  A search revealed the notes hidden between sheets of fine rice paper.  Ah Tuck, awaiting Ah Sam and the notes, was easily apprehended.  Claiming he was a "very sick man," he was quite concerned because his clothes were "all aboard steamer," as indeed they were, and as Ah Tuck, also, would have been, had we not acted with alacrity at the right time.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Another clever theft concerned, not a gold brick, but a box of $3,800 in gold coin, shipped by the firm of Hop Yik &amp; Co. to a branch in Hong Kong, on the clipper ship <HI REND="italics">Sea Serpent</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>For six months no light was shed on the mystery.  Officer Gammon and I were assigned the case.  Our newspaper advertisement for the identity of the drayman who had hauled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Sup Lum Kee, known as "Charlie," a young, educated business man, confidential clerk of Hop Yik &amp; Co., was as keen as any Yankee.  By employing a number of draymen he had the box delivered finally to his own house, where he substituted another box stencil-marked in Chinese.  The second box he transferred by still another drayman to the vessel, during the rush hour of departure.  The bill of lading given the drayman was filled out by Charlie himself for his firm.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Drayman No. 3 had become a little suspicious at this unusual procedure, and when Charlie had tried to bribe him to leave town after the advertisement had appeared in the newspaper, the wise drayman communicated with us, but became "invisible" to his Chinese employer.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Finally confronted with the evidence, Sup Lum Kee confessed and was convicted on his own evidence.  He had collected $4,000 in insurance and in his affluence had taken unto himself a small-footed damsel from the Flowery Kingdom.  But his prosperity was short-lived.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It was in the sixties, too, just after the assassination of Abraham Lincoln, that a San Francisco black-lined newspaper carried the headline, "Search of J. A. Booth's trunk."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>This heading and the article under it were concerned with the fact that Officers Lees, Ellis and Rose had been ordered to search for the trunk of the brother of the assassin of President Lincoln.  J. A. Booth had departed from San Francisco for the Atlantic states by the last steamer.  After a long search we found the trunk, but nothing in it that would implicate J. A. Booth in the horrible transactions of his brother, though there were letters expressing Copperhead and Secession sentiments.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Another notice in the same column is interesting:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"The wretch Donovan, who was held yesterday to answer before the County Court for expressing joy at the assassination of Lincoln, was previously notorious.  About two years ago he was arrested in this city by Captain Lees and Officer Ellis for killing a man in Aurora, and was sent there for trial."</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Enumerating sundry crimes from which Donovan had escaped punishment, the article ended:  "What else could be expected of such a man, and who but an outlaw and murderer could rejoice at such a foul and bloody deed, as that which causes a whole nation to mourn?"</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Parenthetically, not all the excitement of those days was of human origin.  The earthquake of October 1868 so alarmed my mother that she wrote me an anxious letter from New England.  In reply I wrote her:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Your two or three recent letters on earthquakes and other interesting subjects came to hand in due course.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"I regret very much that you people in the east take such a despairing view of our gentle undulations.  You ask me to give you my ideas concerning our recent shake-ups.  First as to facts.  On the 21st of October last, about 8 o'clock a.m., we were visited by a shock that did damage to property to the amount of about $300,000 (owners' estimate) and caused the loss of five lives.  Damage to buildings was confined to poorly constructed walls and foundations, almost entirely on made land.  Wooden houses were not injured in the least.  The loss of life was occasioned by frantic individuals who, seized by panic, did what persons usually do--rushed into danger instead of remaining quiet or moving off to a place of safety.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Sensational stories about great fissures in the earth vomiting forth smoke, fumes of brimstone and other villainous smells have emanated from the frenzied brains of those people who were simply getting in advance a taste of what is possibly in store for them in the future.  All moonshine, my dear mother.  This country has been known to Europeans for about 300 years, and was colonized by the Spaniards about 100 years ago.  During the first 150 years, say, earthquakes were of frequent occurrence and always most severe in Southern California.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"The history of earthquakes since the formation of the Missions by the old padres shows that they are slowly decreasing.  In the year 1812 was the only shock attended by loss of life to any extent, since the great Cortez discovered and named the Vermilion Sea (Gulf of California).  In that year on a Sunday at the Mission of Santa Inez, Valley of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"Can you of New England who are making such a dismal howl about what you are pleased to call our 'misfortune' make so good a showing?</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"As to sacrificing property, as you call it, I assure you we have no necessity for so doing.  The value of real estate has not been affected by the great quake except a narrow strip of made ground immediately on the waterfront, and we have full faith and confidence in the bottom upon which we stand.  Affectionately your son, H.H.E."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The pickpocket has always found his trade lucrative, and some professionals in my day kept the larger cities busy apprehending and jailing them.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Cockney Jack's" specialties were the uncontrollable mourners during funeral services, the deeply religious at church, and the highly emotional in the theater.  Detective Rose and I were alerted at the funeral of Rev. Starr King, for years a Unitarian minister in San Francisco.  I was particularly happy to be on hand, for I had attended King's church services whenever possible and was a great admirer of him.  There was a large crowd at the services and Jack had made several hauls before he was arrested.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In St. Mary's Cathedral during High Mass for the repose of the many who perished in the burning of the cathedral in Santiago, Chile, Cockney Jack again demonstrated his prowess by committing several robberies.  He had served several terms at Blackwell's Island, from which he had also made two or more remarkable escapes.  Once he had swum the bay to New York; at another time he and "Big Sam" tied their chains around their necks and swam Long Island Sound to Green Point, compelling a blacksmith there to knock off their shackles.  In one winter season two of them escaped by jumping the blocks of ice in the Hudson River under fire from the prison.  His arrest in Philadelphia (for theft of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Such criminals challenged the San Francisco officers of the law.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>There was one daring swindler named Veldhingsen who signed checks of from $350 to $450, forging the name of J. P. H. Gildermeister, Consul at San Francisco for The Netherlands.  All the checks were endorsed as partly paid, and this fellow had the audacity to send from Santa Clara by Wells Fargo Express for the collection of a balance of $40 from Gildermeister himself<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
058a.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">Veldhingsen was a native of the Island of Celebes and was of Dutch extraction.  He was a penman by profession and while serving his prison sentence wrote personal cards equal to copperplate in their fine execution.  Among these papers I found one of some he had made with Father's name.--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058a.sgm:<P>Seeking to avoid trouble with the police, Veldhingsen had shifted his base of operations from one suburban town after another, but I continued hot on his heels, and finally caught up with him on a country road, where Veldhingsen, to escape detection in a public conveyance, was traveling in a farmer's wagon.  I arrested him, took him to San Francisco, and helped send him to prison.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>On another occasion the trail of a criminal who had absconded with a large sum of money took me into Utah.  After I had secured my man, I returned to California with him as my prisoner, only to encounter in Sacramento the most difficult experience of the entire chase.  Because the crime had not been committed in San Francisco but in Sacramento, the Sacramento police, as I learned, were out to take my prize away from me.  There was a considerable award involved in the capture, and there was also the prestige attached to the successful conclusion of such an important case.  Though the Sacramento police were my friends, I determined to outwit them.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>As the stage on which my captive and I were passengers approached Sacramento, I concluded that my only hope was to put my trust in the prisoner.  I therefore confided to him my dilemma, assuring him that his best chance for a light and just sentence lay with the San Francisco police and courts.  To avoid capture in Sacramento, therefore, I urged the man to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>The prisoner left the stage before it reached Sacramento.  The plan was for him to hire a horse and thus proceed to a place below Sacramento.  There he would take a boat for the remainder of the trip to San Francisco, where I was to meet him.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Thus I arrived in Sacramento alone.  When I stepped off the stage I was greeted, as I had expected to be, by several of the Sacramento policemen.  With downcast countenance I remarked that the trip had been a hard one.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"But where is your prisoner?" asked one officer.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I shrugged my shoulders.  "Gone."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"You mean you let him get away?"</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Looks like it, doesn't it?" I answered.  Then, showing a little annoyance, I continued, "I don't want to talk about it.  So if you gentlemen will allow me to go to my hotel, I'll get some of this grime off my skin."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>After thus eluding the Sacramento officers, I took the night boat, and finally arrived in San Francisco, anxious lest my prisoner not turn up.  But the man kept his word.  He arrived on schedule, and, being able to restore the sum he had taken (which I had secreted on my own person), he drew a comparatively light sentence.  Thereafter he regarded me as his friend.<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
058a.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3">Father had the faculty of winning the trust of his prisoners.  He claimed he had never handcuffed a prisoner when in public.  He always appealed to the self respect of a man and was always ready to aid him.  To make good with a criminal record took more courage than most men had, said Father, but he would encourage them, nevertheless, and secure positions for them.--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058a.sgm:<P>A similar case was a chase for a fleeing cattle-thief, which was written up in the Chicago <HI REND="italics">Lakeside Monthly</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"As fast as stage horses could travel, I took off for Salt Lake City.  A hunt in that city for an absconding cattle-thief convinced me that I had passed my quarry.  So I backtracked by next stage, which had but one other passenger, a well-built, intelligent young man.  The stage was otherwise filled with sides of bacon, with which we constantly fought as it slithered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"Gathering clues along the way, I was convinced that I would find my man in a new Nevada town, which we reached at nightfall next day.  It would be difficult to hold this man as my prisoner, for he had absconded from British Columbia, had only passed through San Francisco, and I had no authority to apprehend him, commissioned only by the victimized cattle owners.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"I easily spotted my man in the barroom and finally persuaded him that he would be better protected under my care than to run the risk of lynch law as a cattle thief in Nevada or California.  Approaching the head bully in the barroom, I explained to him that I would need his assistance to protect the prisoner from the `roughs' while we got a little sleep, awaiting the next stage.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"I then went to my companion of the coach, enlisting his interest in a plot to spirit away my prisoner.  He was quite ready to enlist on the side of law and order and secretly secured a vehicle to take him and the prisoner to the next town, 30 miles west.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Meanwhile, I joined the men in the barroom, where, between drinks, they questioned me about the prisoner and the money, whether any part of the latter had been recovered.  `Not a cent of money has been recovered yet,' said I, with $35,000 tucked away in my clothing.  Drinks were freely imbibed.  Calling the leader, I reminded him of his assurance of help should any of the rascals attempt to get my man.  I then went upstairs to get a little rest, aware that a counter plot was hatching.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"From a sound sleep I was awakened by blows on my barricaded door.  Knowing well who my callers were, I was ready with my six-shooter when I opened the door to my visitors.  After some hard swearing and bloody threats, the gang realized that they were dealing with the `Law' and withdrew to continue to try to outwit me.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"I did not think they would pursue me, but beside the road as I mounted the stage next morning I saw the wreck of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"Confiding my predicament to my friend, we made new plans. Hastily leaving the stage on reaching Sacramento with this friend securely handcuffed, we made for the boat, while our tough companions sought authorities in town.  As we gained the gangplank, a rough hand was laid on my shoulder, and we were marched off to the Justice, I violently protesting.  The gathering crowd followed to watch proceedings, thus covering the easy escape of the real prisoner.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Upon questioning us, the judge learned that the `prisoner at the bar' had never absconded with anybody's money, and far from being restrained from his liberty, he had accompanied `The Captain' just for fun.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"`And the handcuffs?'</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"`Oh, I just wore them because they were an easy fit.'</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"`And what is your name?' thundered the judge.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"`Henry Fitspatric, Your Honor.  I fell in with Captain Ellis at Salt Lake City and thought I would like to go all the way in his company.  Sorry you delayed us, gentlemen, for we both have urgent business in San Francisco!'</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Having overplayed their hand, the Roughs were intensely disgusted, for meantime the real thief was headed down stream for San Francisco, where he met me as planned.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Shortly after, I entered the office of a good friend and was surprised to see the `prisoner' of my late trip.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"`Well, well, Captain, so you brought Harry home with a pair of handcuffs!  Allow me to introduce my partner, Mr. Henry Fitspatric McDonald.'</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"`Happy to meet you again, Captain.  It was fun while it lasted, though I didn't think it necessary to give those inquisitive chaps in Sacramento the benefit of my full name!  Should I ever run for office I didn't want it said that a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>In running down criminals, I traveled horseback as far as Los Angeles and San Diego.  I had become acquainted with some of the great rancheros and enjoyed their hospitality.  Once, at the end of the season, I visited the Casa Grande of Jose Marc Castro in Pajaro Valley.  Here were gathered the Castilian families from leagues around for a grand rodeo, feast and fandango.  It was a gay affair, with the senors in Spanish dress costumes, set off by brilliant silk bandos.  The senoras were even more colorful, but were dignified and matronly, watching the gay senoritas and their antics with the young males of the company.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Among other Americans present was Judge Watson of potato fame, afterward an apple grower who settled near the mouth of the Salinas River and founded the town called Watsonville.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The old don had three hand organs of Italian type, which he exhibited with pride.  These and most of the house furnishings had been brought around Cape Horn by Boston hide-droghers, who traded "notions" for hides and tallow.  Thousands of cattle were slaughtered yearly for this trade, the carcasses being useless.  In '49 I had asked permission to kill a steer on the coast shore and was told by the owner, "You are more than welcome to the meat, but be sure you do not mar the hide."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The Chinese were a law unto themselves, played well the game of "No savvy," hadn't the faintest idea of the laws of sanitation, and were clever enough to smuggle large amounts of opium, fine goods and women into the city from boats which were examined on leaving China and again before docking in San Francisco.  These goods, including women, were walled in behind false partitions in the baggage holds of ships and spirited out and away in small boats (even when the vessels lay in quarantine, because of smallpox and other diseases).  Some men on shipboard would abet this kind of smuggling, for a price, which added to the difficulty.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Gambling, which often led to murder among themselves, could not be suppressed.  As one Chinaman said, "Chinaman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Out of a force of 150 police, but 12 could be assigned to the Chinese quarter, and often these had to be withdrawn for some emergency elsewhere.  Nevertheless the police were accused of neglect of neglect of duty and disregard of our laws, "our fair city becoming a sink of corruption, a nursery of loathsome crime and practices most vile in the history of mankind."  When this diatribe was addressed to me (this was after I had become Chief) through the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"It is probable that in area and population the Chinese quarter requires double the police force that would be required for the same area and population of whites.  It is difficult to be positive even on this point.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"They have to be protected not only from their own disorder, but from the equally disorderly whites.  It takes constant surveillance to keep the filth of the Chinese quarter down to an endurable limit.  Special police there detailed hire their own dustmen to remove rubbish and accumulations.  It is next to impossible to find out anything from the Chinese themselves."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Immigration was at its peak at the time of my service, and the Mongolian problem was a major nightmare.  Chinese were variously employed.  They were hard workers and served the public in many capacities.  With two huge baskets suspended from their shoulders, they were the street cleaners.  Carrying similar baskets, they were the vegetable, fruit, and fish vendors from door to door.  They did most of the laundry work, the law requiring that they work in sight of the public.  They could be seen through window or open door, sprinkling the clothes by blowing the water in a spray from their mouths.  In railroad-building, hordes of them did good work, under hard conditions.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Many were domestic servants, and very fine ones, if trained or experienced, outdoing the mistress in buying and managing kitchen accounts, as well as in cooking.  In some cases they became valued members of the household.  Such was the case with a connection of our family who had such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Yet some of their cold-blooded murders and other crimes were terrible, for the Chinese devised devious ways with their special instruments for killing:  long knives, hatchets, and barbed leather, which in a single blow could rake a head or face, destroy sight, and disfigure for life.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Officer Rose and I cleared up several such cases of attempted murder, committed in order to rob the victims.  One of these was a young couple in Alameda who were slashed in their sleep at dead of night.  After failing in his attempt to secure the money (hidden under the mattress), the Chinese houseboy showed such horror and sympathy that he put the officers off his track for several weeks.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>When he and his accomplice were finally apprehended, one newspaper said: "H. H. Ellis has been indefatigable in the search, and to him is due directly or indirectly all the credit for the discovery of the criminal."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In a case nearer home, a nephew, also a police officer, detailed for work in the Chinese section, was about to capture his man when the Chinaman struck at him with a long knife and laid bare his cheekbone, fortunately missing his eyes.  Ned carried the scar for the rest of his life, but the assassin paid for his crime.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The Chinese were expert thieves, burglars, and smugglers. Smuggling was the art by which they managed to get opium, and also prostitutes, into the city.  On one raid in Chinatown, five cases and 20 jars of opium were found, stolen from the ship <HI REND="italics">Reindeer</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>When the ship <HI REND="italics">Lord of the Isles</HI>
058a.sgm: brought 1,012 more coolies into San Francisco, the anger of the people mounted to threats.  To cope with whatever unpleasantness might arise, I stationed a squad of men at the wharf and placed others along the route that the Chinese would follow to reach their quarters. Word had reached me that the Kensington Club of the Mission had assembled and were planning to march down to the steamer.  But though crowds gathered along the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>The Chinese were both sinned against and sinning.  They needed protection from the hoodlum element, which persecuted them at every opportunity.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The Mongolian wore his native clothing in those days:  baggy trousers, loose jacket, native shoes, long white hose, and a long queue or pigtail, with colored silk braided into the very end. Those queues offered convenient holds when anyone wished to subdue the wearer, and the bad element among the white population used such holds at every opportunity.  To throw mud into a laundry door and so distress the "heathen Chinese" was good sport.  "China boy" had little redress.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>On one occasion, two white men walking behind a Chinaman on one of San Francisco's principal streets felled the Chinaman with a blow on the head.  He fell on the cobblestones, bleeding profusely, while his assailants watched from the curb 20 feet away.  The Chinaman died on the way to the hospital, yet, though crowds gathered, the assailants were allowed to make their escape.  The one person, a woman, who witnessed the attack, fearing for her own future safety, asserted she did not see the attackers clearly enough to identify them.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Nor was this an unusual incident.  Many a poor Chinaman was found dead in street or alley, sometimes the victim of his own kind.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Brought into the country because of our necessity for laborers, especially for railroad work, the Chinese now refused to return to their native land, and we found it impossible to rid ourselves of an ever-growing menace.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>To do justice to the law-abiding element among them was as much a duty, I felt, as to capture and punish the lawless.  In this effort I had the collaboration of the Six Companies, a body of high-class Chinese, who represented law and order to their people and whom I admired and respected.  Evidently they felt some debt of gratitude to me, too, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>In my contact with the Chinese in California and also abroad in their own country, I learned to admire the better class, and never have I had occasion to change my mind.  They were the embodiment of honesty.  Their word was as good as their bond.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>At times, in my search for fraud and theft, I was obliged to turn from the land to the sea.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Once, news reached San Francisco of the wreck off Santa Cruz of the schooner <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>On the day of the report, the <HI REND="italics">Mary Ellen</HI>
058a.sgm: came alongside the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058a.sgm:, attempting to tow her into Santa Cruz, but was unable to manage the waterlogged vessel.  The wrecking schooner <HI REND="italics">A. J. Wester</HI>
058a.sgm: was immediately dispatched to Santa Cruz to salvage as much as possible of the cargo and the vessel, but found no wreck and no floating spirits.  Meantime Captain Swann had "found" the wreck and moored it off the mouth of the Salinas River.  Mr. Ringot, sent by the underwriters, got the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Here is where Captain Lees and I came into the case.  A report which seemed reliable stated that the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058a.sgm: had been seen near Drake's Bay, north of the Golden Gate, during the time she was reported absent.  The four officers of the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058a.sgm: were arrested, and at midnight the <HI REND="italics">Waylander</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Under Point Reyes we found a curious rock-bound cave, the entrance of which could be approached only with difficulty in the rolling surf.  In the upper part of the cave we found, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:covered with sailcloth, a part of the cargo of the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Captain Swann claimed that on her first attempt to sail, the <HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Almost as bad as the slayings of Orientals and whites were the cases in which ship captains would shanghai men from the San Francisco waterfront.  Because many men would desert ship in San Francisco to go to the mines, the captains were at times desperate for hands, and there were shore men who practiced a lucrative trade in capturing men in saloons, on the waterfront, or alone on the streets at night, drugging or crippling them, taking them aboard ships that were about to sail.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In one such case in 1869, a man named Charles Cahill mysteriously disappeared, leaving a family in great distress of mind and destitute.  It was thought at first that he might have fallen off the wharf where he was employed, but a cannon was fired over the spot and the area dragged without result.  Suspecting that Cahill had been shanghaied, the Chief of Police telegraphed to other ports on the coast to place them on the alert and wrote to United States consuls in foreign ports for the same purpose.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It was in Callao, Peru, that Cahill was finally rescued, after four months of enforced labor aboard the ship <HI REND="italics">Garibaldi</HI>
058a.sgm:.  In San Francisco he had been walking along Davis Street on Saturday afternoon after work when he met two acquaintances.  After they had drunk together, Cahill became unconscious, evidently drugged.  When he came to his senses, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:he found himself at sea as a sailor on the <HI REND="italics">Garibaldi</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>In those days, Captain Isaiah W. Lees, whose name has been mentioned in these pages, was a central figure of the detective police.  Appointed to the force in 1853, he became assistant captain three years later and retained that position till the Vigilance Committee assumed control of government.  By the Vigilantes he was reduced to the rank of detective, but was reappointed to his former position by Chief Curtis.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I was a year older, and together we formed a team.  In 1866 Lees was appointed Captain of Detectives by Mayor Coon, Chief Burke and Judge Rix.  He followed me as Chief of Police.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>As for myself I quote the <HI REND="italics">Evening Post</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"Henry H. Ellis has regular features and dark whiskers and moustaches which entirely conceal his mouth.  His nose is somewhat aquiline, his expression is keen and searching, and from his sharp eyes nothing escapes detection.  He is methodical and stately in manner, uses enough words to convey his meaning and no more, and works on his cases so quietly that half the time his confreres never know what he is doing.  He is a prominent member of the Society of Pioneers.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Captain Ellis is a native of Maine, a mariner by occupation, and before his connection with the police force 19 years ago had attained the position of master and owner of his vessel.  Captain Ellis' forte is the mysterious.  He is never so much at home as when gathering the disconnected details of a startling crime and weaving them into an unbroken chain of evidence.  Poisoning cases, in which analyses, motives, and doubts are mixed up in inextricable confusion, and which require the utmost precaution and ingenuity to unravel, are also among his strong points.  Much of his time is taken up with cases which never appear in newspapers."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>A few years after my appointment to the force the following item appeared in one of the San Francisco papers:</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"Captain Ellis was appointed to the police force in 1855 and since then has filled the positions of license collector, deputy provost marshal during the Civil War, and deputy U.S. marshal under Marshals Raabe and Rand.  For the last few years he has been connected with the detective branch of the department, engaged in ferreting out and bringing to justice the perpetrators of some of the most extensive crimes committed on the coast.  Chief Crowley has appointed him bailiff of the police court, and the bestowal of this honor on one of the most popular and experienced men in the department will be hailed with general satisfaction."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>On New Year's Day, 1866, this testimonial appeared in the papers:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Officer Ellis of the San Francisco Police Detectives today received a magnificent badge of solid gold in the shape of a shield beautifully enameled and surmounted with a diamond-eyed eagle, holding a star in his beak.  This testimonial was given by the bankers of San Francisco in acknowledgment of valuable services rendered, and was manufactured to order."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Accompanying the badge was the following letter, engrossed on parchment, with the autographs of 16 bankers appended:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"We the undersigned bankers of the City of San Francisco take pleasure in presenting the accompanying testimonial, a gold star, to Detective Officer Henry H. Ellis as an expression of our high appreciation of the skill and industry he has displayed in the detection and conviction of various forgers and counterfeiters within the city in the last few years."</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter 6</HEAD>
058a.sgm:<P>POLITICS HAS ALWAYS played a large part in municipal affairs, and San Francisco in the early days was no exception.  In 1875, after serving on the police force for 20 years, I was nominated for Chief on the People's Independent Ticket, and was elected on my record, the last Chief to be elected by the direct vote of the people.  "The Ring," as the political machine was called, temporarily lost out.  It was an advantage for me to be elected on an independent ticket, for I thus had no obligations to any member of the Ring.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>When I was nominated, the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"Henry H. Ellis, our candidate for Chief of Police, is a native of Maine.  He is of the sixth generation of a race of seamen, and naturally took early to the sea.  He has filled every position on board ship, from boy to master.  He arrived in California in June, 1849, a youth of 20, and before he was of age was master and owner of a vessel engaged in the Island and Mexican trade out of this port down to 1854.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"He has during this time engaged in other enterprises.  In early days he was engaged with a partner, established a trading post at Humboldt Bay, and aided in building a pack trail to the Trinity mines.  They were among the first to take up and improve land in the same vicinity.  He has also been prominent in other industrial enterprises.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"He is the head of a large family, all born in this city, and is thoroughly identified with the city's material interests and prosperity in every way.  He is a man of good habits, character and repute, and has hosts of friends who have charged themselves with the task of electing him on Wednesday next.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Ellis has been a member of the police force for 20 years continuously in this city.  He has filled all grades up to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"His entire record in this city for 26 years, as a private citizen and officer, has been above reproach.  His capacity and integrity are undoubted.  He will make an excellent Chief."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Above this editorial appeared two scathing articles about the incumbent Chief and one of the candidates for Mayor, denouncing them as candidates of the Ring.  It was this opposition bloc which I had to fight.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>To quote the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"Chief of Police Ellis entered upon his duties with a full understanding, from long practical experience, of the needs of the city in his responsible department.  It was anticipated that Mr. Ellis would make a good officer, and thus far he has realized every anticipation that was entertained of his sterling ability."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>About the same time the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"The police department, which lately seemed to run itself (toward the ground), gives every indication of having a head.  The force had stagnated, and the moral scum which covered it is evaporating under the freshening breeze of business.  Chief Ellis is doing what a chief of police is supposed to be elected for--giving the affairs of his department his personal supervision and making that his exclusive business.  The effect is apparent in every direction.  Not a man on the force but is stimulated by his superior example, either to renewed effort or to mind his P's and Q's.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"The Chief yesterday made an order relieving the supernumerary force in his own office and on the harbor force, ordering them to report for street and patrol duty.  New assignments are intended to strengthen the street force in the western and southwestern sections of the city.  The changes caused a good deal of fluttering, but no doubt the policy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>On my accession the police force numbered 155 effective men.  I did not contemplate increasing its number, but rather its efficiency.  I differed with the Mayor, elected at the same time, in his opinion that the special police, a force of 300 or more men, should be abolished, for to do so, I felt, would leave a vacuum not easily filled.  I promised that an earnest campaign would be at once organized against the hoodlums of the city, who actually were more troublesome than the older criminals.  Also I vowed that every effort in my power would be made to suppress gambling.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The many wharfs along the growing city front were intended at first merely to enable the deep-water ships to discharge their cargo.  Gradually, however, the piers, which were built wide for the purpose of loading and discharging cargo, were extended till they supported small shops and stores.  Open spaces in between were filled with refuse and sand from excavations, so that new land was created from Montgomery Street to the present Front Street.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In the early days these piers provided a covering for the poor, the criminal, the hunted.  They supplied even more--a playground.  "Wharf Rats" became a general name for the frequenters of this rendezvous, including children of tender age, hoodlums, and escapees from justice.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>A reporter from the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"Few will comprehend the extent and accessibility of the subterranean retreat along the city front.  Before the bulkheads were built, boats could be rowed up to a point on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"At low tide we traveled for an hour and a half as far as Commercial Street, without so much as wetting our feet, and were glad to come to light of day, stand upright, and straighten our backs.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Around this waterfront, sent out by their parents, were many little children, ragged and shoeless, armed with baskets, ropes, and sacks, wandering among the sawmills and railroad tracks, sent out to gather anything loose enough to appropriate:  shavings, bits of wood, coal, salt, lumber.  Some followed the coal carts to salvage any lumps that might fall from the load, and to beg for bits from the drivers.  Some pried chips of bark from the lumber piles; others picked up fallen fruit or vegetables from the streets.  At one time as many as 200 of these `rats' were sent out as scavengers, to mingle with the depraved of both classes.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"There are numerous thieves and vagabonds, both boys and men, who deposit plunder under the rocks and bide their time to carry it away successfully.  Every few weeks the harbor police capture some of the vagabond boys who sleep in the hay or under the wharf and bring them to court as fit candidates for the Industrial School.  Generally orphans or runaways, these lads are often ahead of the older rascals as far as brazen effrontery, hardihood and cunning are concerned."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The Chinese problem and hoodlumism, fostered by the condition described above, were two major problems in the seventies, when I was Chief.  Children so raised could hardly escape growing into evil adults.  As for the older hoodlums, they were a menace to all the city.  They would collect in gangs to attack pedestrians, rob houses, terrify women, smash up stores (including saloons which refused to give them liquor), and even shoot and kill.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It was almost impossible to secure evidence against them, for a squealer suffered further harm at their hands.  Neither <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"For its size," said one editorial, "our police department is exceptionally efficient; its members are brave, determined, persevering and intelligent; and its directors willing to do right and secure captures and convictions wherever possible.  But for the population of this city, our force is ridiculously inadequate.  The mere handful of men whom Chief Ellis has at his disposal would require more than human ability could they be at hand to suppress the constant outrages which disfigure our civilization from the Potrero to Hayes Valley, from the Mission to North Beach."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The deadly viciousness of these attacks finally gave the hoodlums the name of "White Sioux."  They had not hesitated to shoot at officers and even hand-grapple with them, sometimes taking the officers' weapons and using them against their owners.  Almost weekly there was a murderous attack, which finally resulted in my calling my entire force together and addressing them as follows:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"The late murders on our public streets, and the consequent alarm of peaceable citizens, make it imperative for me to address you for the fourth time on this all-important subject.  All other classes of criminals sink into insignificance before this gigantic curse.  Peaceable citizens live in a constant state of terror, and from fear of personal violence are deterred from giving testimony.  The residents of Hayes Valley are talking of banding together as a vigilance committee for mutual protection.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"What a commentary on our efficiency as guardians of the public safety! I am ashamed--and I hope that you are--that the people should consider such action necessary for the safety of their persons and property.  Commencing with the assaulting and stoning of Chinamen, in which they were too often encouraged by parents and hoodlums of larger growth, they have proceeded to felonious assaults on citizens, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"Professional thieves and burglars, as a class, are nothing when compared with these White Sioux, who are reared in the shadows of churches--outlaws that are like human wolves, hunting their prey in packs, more cowardly than the beasts they imitate in their bloody instincts.  They dare not attack a man single-handed, but in gangs they are devoid of shame, and know no mercy.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"From this loud-crying evil the reputation of our fair city and state is suffering abroad.  Our citizens have moved in the matter of the evil of Chinese immigration, and an able committee has laid the grievance before the government at Washington.  Both houses of Congress joined in appointing a commission of three members to come amongst us and investigate the matter, with the power and will to aid us to throw off the evil if we deserve any consideration.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"What showing can <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"Good citizens are amazed at the merciless doings of these devils and wonder that they cannot be stamped out.  It is neither merciful nor charitable for parents to allow these young hoodlums to escape punishment.  On the contrary, it is both merciful and charitable to bring them to justice.  Many might be saved from a future career of crime, and parents might be brought to realize the dangers surrounding their sons, and so lift them out of the groove into which they have fallen and which leads to the penitentiary and the gallows.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Every officer will understand that a record is being kept of the duty he performs.  The deserving of the department will surely be rewarded.  Dereliction of duty will also receive its deserts, but I hope there will be no occasion to record any instance of it.  One hoodlum of pronounced type--young or old--disposed of is of more importance than the capture of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"It is much to be regretted that citizens too often are averse to giving testimony in cases where hoodlums are defendants.  In such exigencies it devolves upon us to swear to complaints and to bring the reluctant witnesses into court to testify.  Only last night a citizen was knocked down and robbed at the Mission by young hoodlums, and the act was witnessed by another citizen who refused to testify in the matter.  An officer swore to the complaint, the parties are under arrest, and the reluctant witness to the affair will be brought into court."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>At the same time that I made the above statement to the officers, I appealed to the citizens to cooperate with the officers in breaking up this reign of terror by appearing as witnesses when called upon.  Without witnesses, the hoodlums could not be prosecuted.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Before my election as Chief, several papers had censured the police, and the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"In this respect," said the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>There were several administrative issues on which Mayor Bryant and I differed.  Possibly the most important was the special police force to reinforce the regulars.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Said Mayor Bryant:  "I shall oppose the system of special policemen and shall endeavor to have it abolished.  If any citizen wants an officer, let him send to headquarters and get one of the regular force.  There are some 300 or 400 of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>The opposing view is expressed in a newspaper article of the day:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Chief Ellis, in his annual report, shows that the force, though far smaller in proportion to the size of the city it protects than any similar body of police in any other large city, has done more real work and under greater disadvantages than are met with in other places.  There are 154 names on the roll as against 2,159 in New York, 1,089 in Philadelphia, and 8,833 in London.  In the opinion of many persons in San Francisco, this city needs a considerably stronger protection in proportion to the inhabitants than any of these other cities.  Its criminal element is of a more desperate, aggressive kind and it has a vicious class almost peculiar to itself."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Again:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Chief Ellis's system of grading the efficiency of his subordinates by the number of arrests made is a good one, although at times it has been abused.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
058a.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">This system had been vigorously opposed.--L.E.R.</NOTE>
058a.sgm:<P>"Proof that the assertion that the police of San Francisco are as efficient an organization as can be found elsewhere is the fact that 50 per cent of property stolen was recovered and that the arrests per officer were 141 as against 37 in New York, 8 in London, and similarly small averages in other cities.  The force has been drilled in the use of the police baton, and the value of this instruction was demonstrated in the recent riots.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Among minor improvements suggested by the Chief, we are glad to note that he recommends the adoption of a uniform of the style worn by the police of New York.  That which is worn here is about as ugly and as little adapted to its purpose as could be imagined.  If the police are to be uniformed at all, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"There is no doubt that the usefulness of the force has been largely increased under the skillful management of Chief Ellis, whom the city has to thank for his painstaking and well-directed efforts to improve the force."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Politics ruled the municipal jobs in San Francisco, as in other cities; and of course with changes of administration, no continuity of action could be maintained, as the Chief of Police was elected every two years.  My predecessor, a business man, did not and could not bring to the office first-hand knowledge of criminal life as I, with my 20 years' experience, could.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Whigs and Democrats fought out their battles, and both had much to say of an administrator who had been elected by the People's Independent Ticket.  Even the new Mayor would not too greatly oppose the prevailing sentiment.  He was too shrewd to enter upon a course such as had wrecked a previous administration.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The Police Department is the test and standard of good municipal government.  As one newspaper article of the day expressed it: "Without a reliable system, very little can be effected, even by so competent an officer as Mr. Ellis."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In the preceding administration it would seem that there was little or no cooperation between the officers of the law and the courts.  According to Judge Louderback:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Justice is nearly as bad as it was in 1856.  Then the Roughs had the city, and it was impossible to convict one of them.  Now the Gentlemen have the city, and all efforts to secure a conviction of anyone of that class are futile."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Public officials are ever under attack, even after they have retired.  In June, 1889, after a man named Rice had been killed by an ex-officer, the <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Evening Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm: carried an item to the effect that applicants for positions on the police force, "when Ellis was Chief," paid $500 each for appointments to duty.  I immediately wrote the following letter, which the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"My term of office as Chief of Police expired December 3, 1877, and my associates in the Police Commission were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"You will understand that it is of grave concern to me that 12 years after I severed my connection with the department my name should be coupled with the disparaging rumors of nine years ago, and that through the columns of the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>In reply the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"We have to speak a good word also for ex-Chief of Police Ellis, and must say he was the best Chief that ever ruled in San Francisco or perhaps ever will.  He was a simon-pure American, and it was Americans who voted him in!"</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Then followed a list of bosses, religious groups "and hundreds of others who have helped to make San Francisco a political Hell."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>One of the important events during my period as Chief was the organization of the Safety Committee of 1877.  The story is told by William T.  Coleman in the <HI REND="italics">Century Magazine</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"For 21 years the good influence of the great Vigilance Committee (of 1856) endured.  Then came a movement in July, 1877, the importance of which has never been appreciated, either in California or elsewhere.  It was the direct out-growth of the railway strikes and socialistic agitation in New York, Buffalo, Pittsburgh, and other large eastern, cities.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"At first it was thought no outbreak would occur in San Francisco, even though the Chinese question was troublesome, but on July 23 Mayor Bryant and Chief of Police Ellis, having unmistakable evidences of very serious trouble, called on General McComb, Commander of the State forces, and requested him to hold his entire force in readiness to support the peace officers."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Fearing that the militia would not be able to cope with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Both requests were promptly complied with, and within 24 hours 1,760 rifles and 500 carbines were assembled.  Rolls of membership were opened for signature, a password was chosen, badges marked "Committee of Safety" were distributed under authority of the Mayor and myself, and members were sworn in as special police.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>It was deemed unwise, in arming all members, to display so large a force of arms, so 6,000 hickory pick handles were converted into large police clubs, and, with side arms, every member was thus armed. The entire force was organized into companies of 100, which selected their own officers.  All were ordered under drill, instruction, and general discipline.  By night there was an effective force for duty under my control.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Under a general authority given by the Mayor and the Chief of Police," continues Mr. Coleman, "our members sent on duty were sworn in as special police.  It was my specific aim, and I made it my duty, to confine the powers of each member to aiding the police; and in the whole action of the force and patrol I allowed no step to be taken except by direction and request of the peace officers, conveyed through me.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Before night we sent out details for active duty, under orders of the Chief of Police."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>An intense feeling existed throughout the city on the night of the 25th, and as the criminal and lawless elements were gathered in crowds and squads in every part of the city, causing much annoyance and fear, the committee agreed with me that to arrest these people with no adequate means to imprison them would be unwise.  The committee therefore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights a feeling of fear was general in the city, fire being most dreaded.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Much of the information," says Mr. Coleman, "was received through the Chief of Police, and as such reports of disorder were communicated to me or my adjutant, we either sent telegraphic orders to ward commanders to act, or dispatched strong bodies of men from the main hall to the scene of action.  A Cavalry force of 300 patrolled the manufacturing area of the city, fearing the setting of more fires.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"On Friday night we supported the police in the largest and severest engagement of the campaign.  We were informed of the enemy's movements, including a proposed attack on our headquarters and barracks.  The main attack was designed against the Pacific Mail Steamship Company's properties, because of its connection with the Chinese immigration.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"It began by firing the large lumber yards and surrounding combustible material.  The attacking force was large.  The firemen and fire brigade were soon in action with all the available police; our forces, numbering 700 men, arrived soon after, on a double-quick in good order (to reinforce the fire brigade).  The engagement became general and was stubbornly contested for about two hours, at the end of which time the united forces had routed the rioters in every quarter . . . (and the National Guard took over).</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"On Saturday, the 28th, we withdrew all our forces from active duty. . . . The Chief of Police advised me that he was satisfied he could then take care of the city."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>At the expiration of my period as Chief, on December 5, 1877, the entire police force presented me with a gold watch and chain.  In the stem of the watch was a large diamond, and on the cover was my family coat of arms.  This gift I valued greatly, for it was given me at the <HI REND="italics">expiration</HI>
058a.sgm: of my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Commenting on my retirement, the <HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>"Mr. Ellis will be missed.  We never had a harder working or more able officer.  He will leave the force to his successor in a well disciplined and smoothly working condition.  There are still defects to be cured.  The special and substitute system is not a good one, and there is too much wire-pulling in the matter of appointments.  There are too many cliques, and there is too much diplomacy in retaining positions.  Still, these evils have been considerably mitigated lately.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"While we welcome the coming, let us also speed the parting guest.  Chief Ellis has stepped down and out.  His record is before the public.  While we have not hesitated to condemn some of his official acts, on the whole we are bound to credit him with having done his duty under very trying circumstances, in a dignified and successful manner.  This was especially noticeable during the July disturbances, an occasion that called for the display of executive qualities of the highest order."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>I retired from the San Francisco Police Department unhappy in my relations with the professional politicians who surrounded me, but secure in the knowledge that I had done my job well and that my ability, integrity and industry were understood and appreciated by my brother officers and the citizens at large.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>In a letter to my mother in November, 1877, before the expiration of my term, I tried in the following words to calm her anxiety, resulting from a misunderstanding of a previous letter:</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"I had stated to you that, while Chief of Police, under the law I could not leave the state.  That is all.  Referring to it, you express the hope that I have `done nothing wrong.'</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"No misfortune has overtaken me.  I voluntarily retire from office at the expiration of my term next month, after 22 years' service, with a clear and perfect record.  I declined a renomination on account of ill health, and other reasons equally patent.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"I retire with the proud consciousness of having done my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>"As for committing a crime, with me 'tis simply a moral impossibility.  My affairs public and private are in a very satisfactory condition."</P>
058a.sgm:<P>EDITOR'S NOTE:<LB>After his retirement Capt. Ellis lived for 32 years.  Though a sufferer from inflammatory rheumatism, he embarked in 1878 on a business partnership, joining an old shipmate, his mate when he was sailing the Pacific, in a hay, grain and feed business (Ellis &amp; Miller) at 21 Spear Street, San Francisco.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>That same year he took a trip around the world with members of his family, and the following year revisited New England, where he busied himself acquiring family heirlooms.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>On his return to California he built a new home in Sunol Glen which was thereafter to be the family seat and which became the major interest of his life.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Two more trips, one to the Hawaiian Islands and the other around the world, were followed by an appointment in his 70th year to a consular position at Turks Island in the West Indies.  The experience proved unpleasant, and he returned home after a year.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>The remainder of his life was spent quietly.  He worked at his memoirs, attended numerous lodge and other organizational meetings, and managed his estate.  His death was on December 15, 1909.</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Laurence R. Cook<LB><HI REND="italics">Occidental College</HI>
058a.sgm:,<LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
058a.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>INDEX</P>
058a.sgm:<P>abandoned ships, 13<LB>Acapulco, 32, 36<LB>Ah Sam, 51<LB>Ah Tuck, 51<LB><HI REND="italics">A. J. Wester</HI>
058a.sgm:, 64<LB><HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
058a.sgm:, 69<LB>American River, 19, 26, 28<LB><HI REND="italics">Apollo</HI>
058a.sgm:, 43<LB>Argentina, 9<LB>Baker, George D., 51<LB><HI REND="italics">banda</HI>
058a.sgm:, 42<LB>Barbary Coast, 45<LB>Baron Forbes &amp; Co., 38<LB>Bay of Monterey, 42<LB>Bay State Row, 32<LB>Bear River, 19<LB>Benecia, 30<LB>Benecia arsenal, 78<LB>Bevans, Dr., 34<LB>Bevans, Ned, 34<LB>"Big Bay," 27<LB>Blair, Lieutenant, 32<LB>bogus bank notes, 50<LB>Booth, J. A., 53<LB>Boston, 3, 7, 15, 40<LB><HI REND="italics">Boston</HI>
058a.sgm:, 8<LB><HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:, 68, 69, 70, 74, 76, 77<LB>Burke, Chief, 48, 50, 66<LB>Butterfield, Major Roger, 14<LB>Brazil, 9<LB>British Columbia, 58<LB><HI REND="italics">Brontes</HI>
058a.sgm:, 26<LB>Bryant, Major, 74, 76, 77<LB>Cahill, Charles, 65<LB><HI REND="italics">California Gold Rush Voyages</HI>
058a.sgm:, 7, 32<LB>Callao, Peru, 65<LB>Campbell, Mr., 35<LB>Cape Horn, 7, 60<LB>Capen, Elizabeth, 3, 40<LB>Cape St. Lucas, 32<LB>Cape St. Roque, 11<LB>cargos, variety of, 32<LB>carretta (see <HI REND="italics">Spanish oxcart</HI>
058a.sgm: ), 15<LB>Casa Grande, 60<LB>Casey, James P., 47<LB>Castro, Jose Marc, 60<LB><HI REND="italics">Century Magazine</HI>
058a.sgm:, 77<LB>Chile, Government of, 5<LB>"Chinese Question," 48<LB><HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
058a.sgm:, 61<LB>Clapp &amp; co., 36, 37<LB>Clapp &amp; Winslow, 38<LB>Clark's Point, 11, 27<LB>Cockney Jack, 55<LB>Cockrill, 69<LB>Coleman, William T., 77, 79<LB>Columbia River Pilots, 12<LB>"Committee of Safety," 78<LB>Convent Burial Ground, 12<LB>Coon, Mayor, 66<LB>Cora, Charles, 46<LB>Cornelius (White), 9<LB>Cortez, 54<LB>cost of passage to San Francisco, 4<LB>coyotes, 23<LB>Crawford, Robert, 49, 50<LB>crime in San Francisco, 48<LB>Crosby, Mr., 15, 16<LB>Crowley, Chief, 52, 67, 69<LB>Curtis, Chief, 66<LB><HI REND="italics">Daily Evening Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:, 47<LB>Deer Creek, 25<LB>Democrats, 76<LB>Donovan, 53, 54<LB>Drake's Bay, 64<LB>Dublin paper, 24<LB>Ducks, 31, 45<LB>dysentery, 19<LB>earthquake of October, 1868, 54<LB>El Dorado, 44<LB>Ellis, A. I., 45<LB>Ellis, Charles H., 32<LB>Ellis, Henry Hiram, 8, 46, 53, 59, 62, 67, 68, 72, 75, 76, 77, 80<LB>Ellis, Russell, 32 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<LB>Emigrant Road, 18, 19, 20<LB><HI REND="italics">Euphemia</HI>
058a.sgm:, 43<LB><HI REND="italics">Evening Post</HI>
058a.sgm:, 66<LB>fandango, 7<LB>Farnam, Captain, 30<LB>Farrell, William, 49<LB>Fieldstead, the mate, 6<LB>Fillmore, President, 33<LB>Fitspatric, Henry, 59<LB>Fort Point, 40, 42, 49<LB>Fort Sutter, 18<LB><HI REND="italics">Fortune</HI>
058a.sgm:, 39<LB>Foster's Bar, 19, 21<LB>French corral, 24, 25<LB>Galapogos Islands, 10<LB>Galveston, 8<LB>Gammon, Officer, 28<LB>Garabaldi, 65<LB><HI REND="italics">Gazelle</HI>
058a.sgm:, 28<LB>George, the Englishman, 6, 7<LB>Gildermeister, J. P. H., 56<LB>Gill, James, 35<LB>Gilman, 15<LB>Goat Island, 79<LB>Golden Gate, 64<LB>Gold Lake, 17, 18<LB>Grass Valley, 25<LB>Guadalajara, 37, 38<LB>guanaco meat, 7<LB>Gulf of California, 32<LB>Gulf of Tehuantepec, 36<LB><HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:, (see <HI REND="italics">William C. Haskstaff</HI>
058a.sgm: )<LB><HI REND="italics">Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:, crew of, 9<LB>Harding, Sam, 38<LB>Hayes, President Rutherford B., 78<LB>Hayes Valley, 72<LB>Higgins, Captain, 8<LB>Hoag, Caldius, 21, 26<LB>"hogback, stuck on the," 28<LB>hoodlumism, 48, 71, 72<LB>Hop Ken, 39<LB>Hop Yik &amp; Co., 52, 53<LB>Hounds, the, 45<LB>Humboldt Bay, 32, 40, 68<LB>Huntington Library, 7<LB>Huntington Library Press, 32<LB>Hutchings, Mr., 30, 32<LB>impressions of San Francisco on arrival, 13<LB>Indian village, 18<LB>Indians, killed by earthquake, 55<LB>Irwin, Governor, 78<LB><HI REND="italics">John Dunlop</HI>
058a.sgm:, 32<LB>Johnson, George, 9<LB>Kennebec steamers, 33<LB>Kensington Club, 62<LB>King, James, 47<LB>King, Rev. Starr, 55<LB>Lacy's Bar, 15, 25<LB>Ladrone Islands, 12<LB>Lahina, 39<LB><HI REND="italics">Lakeside Monthly</HI>
058a.sgm:, 57<LB>Lane, Daniel, 5, 12, 24, 26, 28<LB>La Paz, 35<LB>La Plata, 4<LB>llamas, 5<LB>Lees, Isaiah W., 49, 50, 53, 64, 66<LB>Loma Alta, 13<LB>Long Wharf, 37<LB><HI REND="italics">Lord of the Isles</HI>
058a.sgm:, 62<LB>Loretta, 32, 38<LB>Los Angeles, 60<LB>Louderback, Judge, 76, 77<LB>Lower California, 32<LB>McComb, General, 77, 78<LB>McDonald, Henry Fitspatric, 59<LB><HI REND="italics">McKimm</HI>
058a.sgm:, steamship, 30<LB><HI REND="italics">Mada Kay</HI>
058a.sgm:, 13<LB>Mare Island Navy Yard, 78<LB><HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
058a.sgm:, 34<LB>Market Street, 32<LB>Markie Island, 30<LB>Mason, Durand &amp; Co., 40<LB><HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058a.sgm:, 15<LB>Mazatlan, 34, 35, 38, 39<LB>Mexican vaqueros, 18<LB>Miller, Captain, 40<LB>Miners' Bank, 44<LB>Marshall's discovery, 43<LB>missionaries, 21<LB>Missouri River, 17<LB>Monterey, 32, 40 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<LB>Monterey, Bay of, 42<LB>Montgomery Street, 45<LB>Morris, Mr., 32<LB>Moors, William and Daniel, of Waterville, 15<LB>Nantucket, 43<LB>new land created, 70<LB>New Orleans, 8<LB><HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
058a.sgm:, 33, 34, 43, 44<LB>Nicaragua, 40<LB>No How King, 51<LB><HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
058a.sgm:, 36<LB><HI REND="italics">North Bend</HI>
058a.sgm:, 3, 8, 7, 15, 72<LB>Nye, Neal, 7, 8, 9</P>
058a.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>opium, 62</HEAD>
058a.sgm:<P><LB><HI REND="italics">Oporto</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>O'Rea, Paris, 38<LB><LB><HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Oyster Island, 33</P>
058a.sgm:<P>old slaver, 13</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Pacific Mail Steamship Company, 79</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Pajaro Valley, 60</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Panama, 36</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Parker House, 44</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Parson, the, 21, 25, 26</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Patagonia, 5, 8</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Patagonian Governor, 7</P>
058a.sgm:<P>People's Independent Ticket, 76</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Pioneer Society, 43</P>
058a.sgm:<P>piracy foiled, 65</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Point Reyes, 64</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Point Conception, 11</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Point Famine, 5, 6, 7</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Potrero, 72</P>
058a.sgm:<P>prostitutes, Chinese, 62<LB><HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Raabe, Marshall, 67</P>
058a.sgm:<P>railway strikes, 77</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Ralph, a German, 21, 22, 23</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Rand, Marshal, 67</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Regulators, the, 45<LB><HI REND="italics">Reindeer</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Rice, Captain, 37</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Richardson, U.S. Marshal William H., 46</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Rincon Point, 33</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Ringot, Mr., 64</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Rio de Janeiro, 9</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Rio Grande, 8</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Rix, Judge, 66</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Rogers, George, 9</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Rose, Detective, 55, 62</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Roughs, 59, 76</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Sacramento, 3, 14, 18, 26, 28, 31</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Sacramento River, 15, 26, 30</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Safety Committee, 77<LB><HI REND="italics">Sagamore</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>sailors shanghaied, 71</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Salico, Trellisfera, 35</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Salinas River, 60, 64</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Sallenger, Officer, 66</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Salt Lake City, 59</P>
058a.sgm:<P>San Buenaventura, Valley of, 54</P>
058a.sgm:<P>San Diego, 60</P>
058a.sgm:<P>San Francisco, 4, 7, 11, 12, 18, 28, 30, 32, 33, 36, 37, 38, 39, 41, 42, 43, 45, 48, 52, 56, 57, 58, 60, 62, 63, 64, 65, 68, 75, 76</P>
058a.sgm:<P>San Francisco Bay, 11, 12, 28, 41</P>
058a.sgm:<P>San Francisco Police Department, 46, 50</P>
058a.sgm:<P>San Francisco, population in 1849, 14</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Sandwich Islands, 32, 39<LB><HI REND="italics">San Francisco Evening Bulletin</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Sanger, Edward, 40</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Santa Clara, 56</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Santa Cruz, 54</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Santa Inez Mission, 54</P>
058a.sgm:<P>San Jose, 32<LB><HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Schendorff, a Hungarian, 39</P>
058a.sgm:<P>sea lions, 5<LB><HI REND="italics">Sea Serpent</HI>
058a.sgm:, 52<LB><HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>sharks, experiences with, 35</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Sheldon, Hooper, 28</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Shelley, verses by, 24</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Shoal Water Bay, 12</P>
058a.sgm:<P>shanghaing of sailors, 71</P>
058a.sgm:<P>sickness among the miners, 26</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Sierra Nevada Mountains, 17</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Simmons, Captain, 9, 10, 14, 27</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Six Companies, 63</P>
058a.sgm:<P>smuggling, 38, 60, 62</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Society of Pioneers, 66</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Sonoma, State of, 34</P>
058a.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
058a.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
058a.sgm:<P>Southern California, 54</P>
058a.sgm:<P>South Fork, 21</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Spanish oxcart (see <HI REND="italics">carretta</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>sperm whales, 10</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Steep Hollow, 18, 19, 23</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Stockton, 33</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Stoddard, Daniel and Orlando, 28</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Straits of Magellan, 4, 15</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Sturgess, Captain, 9, 11</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Suisun Bay, 12</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Summers, Captain, 27</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Sup Lum Kee, 53<LB><HI REND="italics">Susan Drew</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Sutter's Fort, 14, 23, 38</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Swann, Captain J. W., 64, 65</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Sydney, 27</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Sydney Ducks," 31, 45<LB><HI REND="italics">Tamaroo</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Taylor, Zachary, 8</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Telegraph Hill, 13, 33</P>
058a.sgm:<P>teredo worms, 36</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Tepic, 39</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Thuller and Sanger, 37</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Tierra del Fuegians,</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Trinity mines, 40, 66</P>
058a.sgm:<P>ticket-of-leave men, 31</P>
058a.sgm:<P>United States Hotel, 26</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Uruguay, 9</P>
058a.sgm:<P>under-strappers, 5</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Vanderbilt Nicaraguan Line, 36</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Van Dieman's Land," 5</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Veldhingsen, daring swindler, 56</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Vigilance Committee, 45, 46, 47, 66, 77, 78</P>
058a.sgm:<P>wages at Sacramento, 31</P>
058a.sgm:<P>walking the plank, 10<LB><HI REND="italics">Warner</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Waters, "Dr." Jaby, 36</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Waterville, 15</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Watson, Judge, 60</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Watsonville, 60<LB><HI REND="italics">Waylander</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Wells Fargo Express, 56<LB><HI REND="italics">Wester, A. J.</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>whalers, 10</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"Wharf Rats," 70</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Whigs, 76</P>
058a.sgm:<P>White, Captain, 8, 9, 10, 12</P>
058a.sgm:<P>"White Sioux," 72, 73</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Whittlesay, 9, 11<LB><HI REND="italics">William C. Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14<LB><HI REND="italics">William C. Hackstaff</HI>
058a.sgm:<P>Winslow, Mr., 21, 23</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Woolwich, Tom, 35</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Wright, Judge, 76</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Yerba Buena, 14, 43</P>
058a.sgm:<P>Yuba River, 19, 21, 24</P>
058b.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-058b</TITLE>
058b.sgm:<TITLE>From the Kennebec to California; reminiscences of a California pioneer. Selected and arranged by Lucy Ellis Riddell. Introduction by Robert Glass Cleland. Edited by Laurence R. Cook: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
058b.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
058b.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
058b.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
058b.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
058b.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>58-14191</LCCN>
058b.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
058b.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 443333</COPYRIGHT>
058b.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
058b.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058b.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
058b.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058b.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Henry Hiram Ellis, last Chief of Police of San Francisco elected by direct vote of the people, 1875</HI>
058b.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
058b.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058b.sgm:<P>MY BOYHOOD and YOUTH</p><P>By HENRY HIRAM ELLIS<LB><HI REND="italics">[Fifty copies of this section, containing information for family consumption only, were privately printed and bound into as many copies of the regular trade edition</HI>
058b.sgm:.]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
058b.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
058b.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PROLOGUE</HEAD>
058b.sgm:<P>"It's a girl, Henry!"</p><P>As the opening of the door and the announcement came simultaneously, Henry (my father) looked up from his reading with an expression of relief and pleasure.</p><P>"Thank the Lord for a change!" he exclaimed.  "Come in, Lottie, and tell me how Lizzie is."</p><P>"Lottie" ("Aunt Charlotte," father's cousin) came into the library.  She might have stepped from an Apache Indian tribe, so lithe, spare of frame and erect was she, with her deep-set dark eyes beneath heavy brows and her coal black hair combed straight back from a weather-tanned face.  But the smile and snapping good humor in her eyes and the contour of her head and face, revealed the New England strain of ancestry.  Dressed in a calico wrapper of no particular color, which hung "like a yard of pump water," to quote this nautical father of mine, Lottie nevertheless held one's attention by the grace and poise of body and the strength of her personality.</p><P>Clothes were of small concern to this seasoned pioneer, one of the brave women who came West with their men across the plains in covered wagons.  Indeed, she drove one of the four-horse teams, enduring the hardships and withstanding Indian attacks.  In one such attack, she thrust her four year old daughter between her feet, clamped a wooden water bucket over her head, and whipped her horses into a dead run to join the others.  Arrows penetrated the wagon side and cover but missed the driver and her child.  Aunt Charlotte was a wonder and inspiration to us children.</p><P>"Lizzie is doing fine, Henry," she answered, "and you have the prettiest baby girl you ever laid eyes on.  I haven't time to stop.  Lizzie will need me shortly, and I must look after the boys a bit.  They mustn't feel their noses out of joint because a baby has arrived, and a girl at that!  And be sure Henry, you remember that, too!"  With the timely admonition, father was left to himself for it would be indelicate for him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:Coit Tower now stands), and a street intersection was not the best location for a baseball diamond, but the steep ascent made slow going for two-wheeled carts loaded with coal, or for winded horses as they zig-zagged up Lombard Street, the only street available for residents of the Hill.  A few of the city streets were paved with planks or cobblestones, but not Lombard.  The heavy rains cut the yellow clay into small ravines, gullies, and holes which wore down somewhat during the long, dry season.</p><P>There were broad, planked sidewalks spiked down, but the worn planks and spikes, rising to menace shoes, the split and splintered wood and knot-holes, were a constant source of annoyance.  When the street was blasted for sewers and the boys dug in for forts and fights, a dynamite accident occurred.  When the warning signal sounded retreat, a neighbor boy was too deliberate and a piece of rock pierced his mouth and chin.  The wounded "hero" recovered, however, amid due sympathy.</p><P>To interrupt the games and call in the boys, every family used a hand bell and all knew each bell.  "There goes Johnsons', Efforts', the Ellis'!" etc.  and away they would run.</p><P>Meiggs Wharf was another rendezvous for the boys.  They might get a chance to go out on a fishing boat, and the sailors were a fascination as were the monkeys and other animals brought from far places.</p><P>One might say that the inhabitants of Telegraph Hill were as heterogeneous a lot as the Zoo of Meiggs Wharf, but we will say a cosmopolitan lot.  This was San Francisco.  The Irish Browns, the English Efforts, and the Welsh Jones were our closest friends.  My chum was born of a sweet Scotch mother and a dour Scotch father.  Gertrude stayed the night more often with me than I with her.  Breakfast was difficult enough at any time but a soup plate of oatmeal with <HI REND="italics">milk</HI>
058b.sgm: and no sugar was too difficult for me.  Opposite lived a Spanish family, patrician descendants, grantees from the crown of Spain.  They retained their courtly manners.</p><P>Our neighbor on the south was a Slovene with an American wife.  It was she who lost her baby with diphtheria.  He was a wholesale fruit dealer, and both finely educated.</p><P>Below them, was a French-German combination, whose children I envied, for they spoke three languages, and employed three maids who spoke the three languages!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Waterville, Maine, 1850.  Birthplace of Henry Hiram Ellis, 1829.  (House with cross</HI>
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058b.sgm:half-yard.  Always there was a dog, if only a mangy stray off the street.  One day, when Mother was resting quietly on the lounge, the menagerie owner came into the room with a shaggy bundle in his arms:  pleadingly he asked, "Please, Mother, mayn't I keep this billy goat, Johnny says it will give milk in a year?"</p><P>Rising to her feet, no longer indisposed, Mother exclaimed, "No, run find that boy, tell him we will have no billy goats, milk or no milk!"</p><P>Still reminiscing and musing on the years to come, "I must make some memoranda for my book," says Father, "for already in the twenty years, many interesting experiences are dimming in memory's chamber, and I want to leave the story of my life to my children."  And so began the accumulation of notes that at odd moments and on odd scraps of paper, were jotted down.  It is from those notes, I have woven Father's life story.  Now, for the major part of this book, he will tell his own story.  I gladly yield the stage to him.</p><P>LUCY ELLIS RIDDELL<LB><HI REND="italics">Casita de Loma Vista</HI>
058b.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Altadena, California</HI>
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058b.sgm:<HEAD>MY BOYHOOD AND YOUTH<LB>By HENRY HIRAM ELLIS</HEAD>
058b.sgm:<P>1829--A small craft is launched, and sails through home waters with toil and poverty, imagination and determination.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Poverty for a boy is his best inheritance; that is, if he has ambition</HI>
058b.sgm:."</p><P>I had both, yet I write of myself with some misgivings, for I have limited ability and less education.  My active, adventurous life has been successful because of the principles I believed in and practiced, and I hope my descendants will find the story interesting and helpful.</p><P>My birthplace was a small community of old English, French and Scotch families, set off and incorporated in 1802, from Winslow, Maine, which was settled in 1754 by Captain John Winslow.  He built Fort Halifax (a block-house of huge logs) as a defense against the Indians, at the junction of the Kennebec and Sebasticook rivers.</p><P>Mother's ancestors, Nehemiah Getchel and Asa Redington, were early settlers.  They built a dam and double sawmill on the Kennebec and began lumbering from the magnificent primeval forests of hard woods which covered the country.</p><P>Redington had been a Revolutionary soldier, and Getchel a guide for Benedict Arnold's ill-fated expedition up the Kennebec and Chaudiere rivers--the attempt to bring the French to our side in the war.  Poorly equipped and trained, battling blizzards, icy waters and starvation, they failed.  But it was a bold, heroic move for a man who later betrayed his country.</p><P>Our little home was built on the brink of Power's Hill, overlooking a depression, which had been a sort of bay, where, it was claimed, Arnold had built and repaired some of his canoes.</p><P>Another ancestor, Mother's father, James Crommett, was a deserter from the English ranks in Quebec.  To lose his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:the world by my own unaided efforts.  I took on heavier duties, but above all I was still a schoolboy with abounding life and the urge to play.  Teddy Roosevelt once said, "No boy will be much of a man unless he is a good deal of a boy."  I fear I was too much of a boy to be a good deal of a man, but my ambition knew no limit.  I disilke to enlarge on my boyhood exploits, but to suppress them would be like <HI REND="italics">Hamlet</HI>
058b.sgm: with Hamlet left out.</p><P>I went to school in winter, but was "bound out" on Clifford's farm in summer for $2 a month.  I became inured to hard labor, breakfast and supper by candlelight, labor in the fields all day, milking and care of stock by lanternlight.  I would go to bed dead tired.</p><P>I fell off the rack of hay one day and broke both bones in my left arm.  I was most impatient at a delay in my work of 10 hours before it was set.</p><P>Out of school hours in winter I did chores for Mother, some of which were not easy.  I banked the house with snow for the winter, tunneled through drifts which sometimes reached the eaves of our little house to make exit to the outdoors, and brought all water a distance of two blocks in summer heat and winter bitter cold, in buckets suspended from a wooden yoke on my shoulders.  I chopped wood, I hauled grain to the mills, returning with slabs, lumber or edgings to be sold, and on Saturdays, when farmers brought produce to town, I would make a stand opposite our house on Silver and Main Streets and help with their sales.  When Mother's grain was milled, she had it separated in the bag.  Flour, midlings (graham) and bran, all were utilized.</p><P>Our yellow school building on the Common had a little portico over the entrance about the size and shape of a schooner's galley, and within, near the entrance, was a huge fireplace with big iron dogs.  The room was black with smoke and age.  Near the fireplace was a huge desk which would hold three boys.  I knew, for once I was locked in it during the lunch hour for some misdemeanor, I doubled my knees under me, when the coast was clear, heaved up and split the top.</p><P>[Father must have been difficult for the teacher, who was his cousin, Rebecca Ellis.  We have a tiny pipe carved from a knot in his desk in this same schoolroom.--L.E.R.]</p><P>There were two meeting houses in the village, a Baptist and a Universalist.  Mother belonged to the former, which was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Coat of Arms of the Capen Family</HI>
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058b.sgm:the teeth and sold the silver.)</p><P>I loved trees to the point of adoration, caring little for short-seasoned flowers.  One Sunday I dug from a swamp, and carried home on my back, two elm trees the size of walking sticks and planted them in Mother's yard.  Thirty years later I had the surviving one cut down and sawed into planks and joists at Uncle Thode's mill--a great concession on his part, for the trunk was full of knots which did much damage to the saws.  I fear Uncle Thode did penance for many years for the picturesque profanity that sounded through the old mill while my elm tree was being processed.</p><P>The town refused to take the lumber on the docks, so Cousin Charles Crommett stowed it in the top of his barn, where it remained several years.</p><P>When again I visited Mother, I had it shipped for a Cape Horn passage on the main hatch of the ship <HI REND="italics">Farnham</HI>
058b.sgm:.  The Captain refused at first to ship it as freight, but I found that he had a tender place in his heart for family relics, and I worked that interest to good purpose.  We compromised and I saw the lines made fast to the deck ringbolts to secure its passage on deck.</p><P>Of all the wood I know, elm is the worst for twisting and warping, and when my tree arrived in San Francisco it looked like a bundle of snakes.  The West Coast Furniture Co.  (one of W. C. Ralston's enterprises) accepted my order to make it into a piece of furniture.  A cold water bath soaked out the salt, followed by a steam bath to straighten the lumber.  Finally it was kiln dried.  The result from their shop was a beautiful sideboard which has never sprung or warped in the least.</p><P>On a piece of oak from the ship <HI REND="italics">Kearsage</HI>
058b.sgm: is the family coat of arms, mounted atop the center cabinet, a piece of walnut from the frigate <HI REND="italics">Constitution</HI>
058b.sgm: records the family motto.</p><P>The most gratifying fact of the whole operation is that the San Francisco police force, hearing of the enterprise, took it out of my hands.  As I was then no longer a factor in that organization, it was a compliment to me and my work when I was its chief.</p><P>Heirlooms were always fascinating to me, and I gathered many for our home when visiting our ancestral dwellings.</p><P>Rummaging through the garret of the Ellisville home near Plymouth, Massachuetts, I found an old dilapidated maple chair.  It was made with rush bottom, one corner in front, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:and my destiny.</p><P>Privation at the outset of life teaches self reliance.  I was to become a shipmaster, and I held an undefined idea that it was but a ladder to attain better things.  But I had to bide my time, earn money, help Mother, and get on with my schooling.  I attended the Academy and the Institute for short periods, paying some of the cost by "firing" and cleaning the building (janitor service).  There I made more progress in a short time than I made in all the winters spent in the yellow schoolhouse.</p><P>About this time I consulted my Uncle William, who had been a seaman, about going to sea.</p><P>"Go to Boston," said he, "and if you behave yourself, you may in time, and with good luck, become a coachman."</p><P>"A coachman!" I, who had dreamt of enchanted isles in the Southern Seas and of wealth untold! No doubt Uncle William was honest, but he had no vision!</p><P>Failing to gain Mother's consent to go to sea, I planned to escape.  Packing my few belongings in a little hide-covered trunk, I consulted our neighbor, Captain Jewell of the <HI REND="italics">Titanic,</HI>
058b.sgm: but did not tell him my determination to get afloat on blue water.  He persuaded Mother to permit me to make a voyage on his boat, which plied between Waterville, Augusta and Hollowell, which was tidewater on the Kennebec.  She freighted oats, potatoes, corn and wheat.</p><P>Captain Jewell paid me $7 a month--quite a respectable sum for a boy of 14 years.  After $2 on the farm, it seemed munificent to me, and before me was the world of waters.  Mother should have half of all my earnings!</p><P>I found myself installed as assistant cook and general roustabout, which I discovered meant being a servant to ignorant, brutal men.  One of these was a rough Canadian who spoke no English, but could swear a blue streak in English as well as French.</p><P>At Augusta the men sent me ashore with two bits and a ten-quart pail for beer.  Entering the first saloon I saw, I paid the money and asked for beer.  The beer was drawn from a big ironbound barrel, and in my pail was about two inches deep.  Till then I had never seen except in bottles.</p><P>"Is this all I get?" I asked.</p><P>"What do you expect? The whole hogshead?"</p><P>The boatmen tasted the beer, spat it out, and glared at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:me.  "What is this?  Poison?  Throw the stuff overboard!"</p><P>When out of sight, I tasted it and found it bitter as gall.  The only beer I had known till then was harmless spruce beer, innocent of alcohol.</p><P>Captain Jewell treated me well.  He was a noble fellow, never allowing himself to show anger, even when raging beneath a calm exterior.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Titanic</HI>
058b.sgm: was flat bottomed, with one square sail.  Therefore it could sail before the wind only.  We were often at anchor, giving us an opportunity to explore on shore.  In two trips in her I gained knowledge and experience.</p><P>Our return cargo was West Indian sugar, molasses, codfish and rice.</p><P>At Hollowell I had my first view of an ocean vessel.  With wonder and delight I wandered over her vast proportions, envying the cabin boys in their conspicuous buttons, and I was fairly dazzled by the captain in uniform.  Admirals Drake, Sampson and Howard (a kinsman) became small potatoes before this spectacle.  Could I soar to such heights, and wear a gold-braided cap?  My determination to get to sea was confirmed.</p><P>With this goal in mind, I confided in Captain Jewell, and while remonstrating mildly, knowing Mother's anxiety, secretly he favored my plan and aided me in getting a berth on the schooner <HI REND="italics">Susan</HI>
058b.sgm: to work my way to Boston, the mecca of all New England seamen.  Aboard the <HI REND="italics">Susan</HI>
058b.sgm: I went, agreeing to load and discharge cargo, which was wheat in bulk and handled a half bushel at a time--one man in the hold, another on the wharf.</p><P>Then I started looking along the waterfront for a big deep-water vessel that would be going on a long voyage.  Although I now had some idea of work aboard ship, and some book knowledge, I was forced to admit I had never made an ocean voyage.  I offered to work without wages, but got the same answer always: "You would be of no use on this ship."</p><P>I visited a dozen vessels the first day and returned to the <HI REND="italics">Susan</HI>
058b.sgm: discouraged.  Another day with the same result. Ordinary and able seamen were a drug on the market just then.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Susan's</HI>
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058b.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Capen Farm, Dorchester, Massachusetts, Settled and named by Barnard Capen, 1628.  Birthplace of Elizabeth (Capen) Ellis,1828.</HI>
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058b.sgm:was a greenhorn.  I mentioned my experience on the <HI REND="italics">Susan</HI>
058b.sgm: and one mate laughingly said that his captain had gone ashore "to buy her (the <HI REND="italics">Susan</HI>
058b.sgm: ) for a longboat!"</p><P>No deep-water ship would take me.</p><P>After a week of continuous effort, offering to work my way on several Indian and China traders, I was reluctantly compelled to take Captain Weston's advice and ship on a coaster.</p><P>Meantime I had written Mother, again asking her consent to go to sea.  At that stage, with my determination, she could of course do no less than grant it.</p><P>But to get into a good coaster I found as difficult as to make a Calcutta voyage.  I went to a shipping office that I had noticed on Commercial Street now Atlantic Avenue and met the shipping master.  He told me he would take me as a landsman on a whaler for a three months' voyage on the Pacific.  He told great tales--how he had come to Boston, shipped aboard a whaler, and returned with $5,000.  I could do the same.  The ship was at New Bedford and he would pay my passage there.</p><P>He also confided that when he first saw a ship he had to ask what it was.  I knew he lied.  He sounded too unreliable to suit me.  I told him I would come next day, and I did, bringing with me a boy whom I had met, also looking for a voyage.  The fairy tales of this plausable talker captivated the lad and he signed articles at once.  I refused.</p><P>Turning to my friend, the shipmaster said, "You, my boy, will come back home with a fortune, but that boy (meaning me) will never amount to shucks!"</p><P>Convinced that to become a thorough seaman I must gain actual experience in vessels of all rigs and sizes, I shipped on a little ten-ton fore-and-after, the <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
058b.sgm: for New York, going through Long Island Sound.  From there I took a fine, large schooner, the <HI REND="italics">Surprise</HI>
058b.sgm:, for Philadelphia.  Then I shipped on a full-rigged brig, the <HI REND="italics">Fanny Coit</HI>
058b.sgm:, to Baltimore and Charleston.  There my kinsman, Lieutenant Charles Howard (afterwards lost at sea), secured a berth for me in the <HI REND="italics">Ann Welch</HI>
058b.sgm:.  (The son of this Charles Howard was General Charles Howard of the Marine Corps.  I met him later in Waterville in 1904.)  The <HI REND="italics">Ann Welch</HI>
058b.sgm: took me to Apalachicola, Pensacola, Mobile, New Orleans and Galveston.</p><P>Again I shipped on a coaster plying between Calais, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:Maine, and Galveston, Texas.  My pay was the sum of seven dollars a month.  Though but a boy in years, I did a man's work, and it was difficult to wait till I could demand an able seaman's wages.  On deep-water ships, boys are the fags of all the crew, from master to fo'cs'l, and must take a lot of unmerited abuse.  Taking in cargo with the crew, stowing and discharging it was a man's work.  Stowing and handling the winch were accomplishments which merited promotion, and I determined to master the job.</p><P>Experiences on the coasters live vividly with me to this day.  On the <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
058b.sgm:, the crew consisted of Captain Simms, whose normal condition was drunkenness, one able seaman, and two boys, Jim and me.  The ship was unseaworthy and should have been condemned years before.</p><P>Returning from Eastport with a cargo of lumber, the deck piled high with laths, we encountered a gale which parted the outhauler of the mainsail.  English Bill, the seaman, to save himself, jumped into the boat hanging from the stern davits.  The ringbolt drew out, letting the bow of the boat and Bill into the sea.  Weighted with oilskins, heavy boots and sou'wester, Bill was unable to swim in such weather.  I at once put the helm into the becket and threw overboard several bundles of laths.</p><P>Captain Simms, realizing that the vessel was going about, and seeing the laths in the water, turned savagely to me and threatened to throw me overboard unless I put the vessel back on course instantly.  I could but obey the merciless command, though I saw poor Bill, arms extended, go down into the sea.  I have seen many a poor fellow make passage across the dark river, but never have I been so affected as by Bill's drowning.</p><P>Meantime, everything aloft on the <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
058b.sgm: became a wreck.  Halyards parted, sails split from clew to earing, and the vessel rolled fearfully in the trough of the sea.  She was held together by 10 heavy iron bands running across decks down over the bends, rivited through her timbers.</p><P>I concluded my only hope of safety was in the boat, which was hanging by one davit and plunging her full length at every swell of the head sea; but I was ordered to go overside and pass a line around her bow.  Though this was a difficult and dangerous order, I obeyed with alacrity, hoping the boat would break adrift and enable me to part company with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:Captain Simms and the <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
058b.sgm:.  However, I managed to pass the bight around the bow and to reach deck again, half drowned.</p><P>We cleared the wreckage, and she got off again under part sail, though with difficulty, for the main peak forethroat and jib halyards were parted and the rigging not being ratted down, we could reach the masthead only by shinning up the shrouds.  Then, ordered to make some coffee (having no galley, we cooked in the cabin), I found the cabin filled to our knees with water.  With pumps we freed her of water by midnight, Jim and I working on our knees, under the jaws of the main boom.</p><P>The misery of that day and night can never be obliterated from memory.  Our diet on days following was cold meat and hardtack soaked with salt water.  Captain Simms required Jim and me to work the vessel as best we could.  When drunk, Simms was a devil incarnate, and drunk he was most of the time.  That we finally reached Boston was a miracle.</p><P>There were pleasant experiences which offset ones like that related above!  Luscious Jersey peaches!  Baltimore bacon!  Hunting wild pigs in Pensacola, the land of shanties, song and cotton--those heavy bales which we loaded all day long!  The thrilling sight when the mighty <HI REND="italics">Great Western</HI>
058b.sgm: came majestically up New York Harbor to Peck's Slip, where crowds awaited her, one of the first steam vessels to cross the Atlantic!  The fire in Chestnut Street Theatre, Philadelphia, when the crew of the <HI REND="italics">Fannie Coit</HI>
058b.sgm: was called to help in the rescue of those overcome by smoke, one of whom was a very pretty girl indeed!</p><P>Not so pleasant was loading pig iron in the Baltimore Basin when it was so hot and stormy that lightning played along the ship's chains.</p><P>That same night, running up the coast for New York, we ran into a dense fog.  About midnight a cry rang out sharp and clear, "Keep off, keep off!"  We could discern nothing, but again the cry, "Keep off, keep off!</p><P>From which quarter did it come?</p><P>Suddenly the collision!  A French ship off our bow!  Our anchor, torn from the fo'cs'l deck, fell onto the Frenchman, one fluke piercing the deck.  It took six hours of night work to clear, and we made port running up Long Island Sound.</p><P>At last I realized my dream of sailing the ocean blue in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:full-rigged ship.  She was the <HI REND="italics">Neuduh</HI>
058b.sgm: bound for Amsterdam, Holland.</p><P>By 1847 I had sailed in everything from flat river-boats to a full-rigged ship, visited all ports from Calais, Maine, to Galveston, Texas, ports of the West Indies, South America and Europe, and risen to the position of second mate at 17 years of age.  Also I had gained experience and knowledge from all sorts and conditions of men on both sea and land.</p><P>In the spring of that year, having been away for more than three years, I made a visit home.  There had been times when this roving sea life with its hardships had discouraged me, but this visit to my native village convinced me that never again could I be content with such a humdrum existence.  Imagine, then, my dismay when Mother exacted from me a promise that I would remain ashore two years--where, she did not care so long as it was on terra firma.  It seemed the death knell of all my hopes, but reluctantly I gave her my word.</p><P>Going to Boston, I secured employment in the bell foundry of H. N. Hooper &amp; Co., on Causeway Street near where the great North Station now stands.  My advance there  was rapid, satisfactory to my employer and myself.  I worked like a slave, never taking a vacation save when burned by exploding molten metal.</p><P>I had found a real home almost in the shadow of Old North Church (of Paul Revere fame), and the Baldwins became as second parents to me.  Near by was Copps Hill and the old Salem Burying Ground.  Also near was the home of Joseph F. White, where I met Elizabeth Capen, his niece and my future bride.  They were descendants of <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058b.sgm: ancestors. [See Genealogy, White family.]<ANCHOR ID="nA">*</ANCHOR>
058b.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nA"><P>A letter from H.H. Ellis, aged 18, to his mother, written from Boston, November 22, 1847, reads in part:</p><P>"I conclude you wish to hear how I got the situation I now hold.  I went up to the foundry and was told by the office clerk that they did not want any apprentices, as business was very dull--and if they did, I was too old by three or four years.</p><P>"But I did not make up my mind to learn that trade for nothing; so I asked him where Mr. Hooper was.  He was out.  Then I asked for Mr. Blake.  He was busy.  Lastly I asked to see Mr. Richardson.  As good luck would have it, he came in from the finishing room.  He asked me the same questions and `guessed they did not want anybody.'  I then asked him to give me some work.  He said he was busy, but to call on Monday morning and he would let me know.  The rest I will tell you some day.</p><P>"Congratulate me on my promotion to the rank of caster.  The day I wrote you last, the `Old Man,' as we call Mr. Richardson, put me to casting.  That is three steps from moulder.  I took the place of a journeyman who had been at the place seven years.  I have charge of a trough and a man under me, who has been at work 12 years.  In the foundry, apprentices who were here before me are still moulders, and I have been here barely five months.  They call me a fool for killing myself, but I laugh at them.</p><P>"I have not told you all this to boast, but to satisfy you that I am doing well."(end of footnote)</p></NOTE>
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058b.sgm:<P>This home of cultured people, with their discussions of literature, travel and the arts, opened new vistas to me.</p><P>A rabid reader of the few books hitherto available to me, I now became a gourmand, with the Boston Public Library my treasure house of literary edibles.</p><P>[The story is continued in the main part of this book.]</p><P>Thirty years after my work and life in Boston I revisited my "second home" there.  The Baldwins were the same good people, changed physically, of course--but then, everything else seemed changed, too.  What had happened to the house?  Had the rooms been divided?  How shrunken they appeared, as compared with my memories of them!</p><P>Elizabeth and I were married in Gardiner, Maine, in 1853, and immediately thereafter we sailed for California with 200 other newly married couples.  She was the daughter of General Aaron Capen and Izanah White Capen.  Both the Capen and the White famlies had settled in New England in the 16th century. [See Genealogy.]</p></DIV>
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058b.sgm:<HEAD>EPILOGUE</HEAD>
058b.sgm:<P>Again we return to Father as he sits reading late in the afternoon.  No longer did he burn the midnight oil as he read till the wee hours; yet, a habit of many years was not to be broken easily, if ever.  He usually joined us at breakfast now; we became intimate and were able to know the depths of his character.</p><P>Hardships of early sea life, labor in pioneer days, the exacting, strenuous duties of twenty-two years of detective work, always on the alert, nights more than days, contending with political factions and baffling problems of crime in a new, almost unorganized city, began to take their toll before the office of Chief ended.  Acute attacks of rheumatism became more frequent, severe, and of longer duration so that leisure was a relief he coveted.  However, active he must be, at least in mind.</p><P>Partnership in the firm of Ellis and Miller, "Hay, Grain and Feed" gave an interest without entailing active duty, and provided an outlet for mind and resources.  Also it brought together two old shipmates who had sailed the seas together when trading on the coast and islands of the Pacific in Pioneer days.</p><P>It was natural for Father to turn to the sea as a source of rest and relaxation; so, it was but a few months after his term of office expired before he was again on the rolling deep, taking sister Iza and brother Bert on a warm voyage to the Far East, China and Japan, via Hawaii, Australia and the isles between.</p><P>An entry in Father's diary dated May 24, 1878, written at sea, reads:  "Homeward bound; will arrive tomorrow.  Since we left home, Dec. 5, we have completed more than the circuit of the globe, in miles about 26,000.  We have visited the islands of Hawaii, Navigators, New Zealand, Tasmania; cities of Sidney and Melbourne, Australia, and the entire eastern and northern coast of that island continent; also New Guinea, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Family of Capt. H. H. Ellis, San Francisco, California, 1869.  Left to right: Iza Vesta; Capt. Ellis; Robert Ellis; Henry Cromwell; Franklin Capen; Lucy; Elizabeth (Capen) Ellis, wife of H. H. E. and Philip Austin</HI>
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058b.sgm:<illus entity="a058-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">"Elliston," Sunol, California.  Home built by Henry Hiram Ellis, 1890.  Named for ancestral village, "Ellisville," settled by ancestors on Cape Cod, near Sandwich, Massachusetts, 1830</HI>
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058b.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:<HEAD>GENEALOGY</HEAD>
058b.sgm:<HEAD>GENEALOGY OF THE WHITE FAMILY IN AMERICA</HEAD>
058b.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Accompanying a gift of oil portraits of his father and mother, (Capt. John White and Vesta [Dunbar] White), Joseph F. White gave the following memorandum to Elizabeth (Capen) Ellis, his niece, (daughter of his sister, Izanah [White] Capen</HI>
058b.sgm:.)</p><P>"Dictated by my parents at Poplar Street, Boston, Mass., 1847:  My father, Capt. John White, was born in Randolph, March 9th, 1777.  His father's name was Lott White.  His grandfather's name was Micah White, who, with his ancestors, belonged to Weymouth and originated from the Whites at the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth.  Perigrine White was the first White child born in New England.  His (Capt. John White) mother's name was Polly (Mary) Tower before marriage.  She was born in Braintree, now Randolph.</p><P>Mother's name was Vesta Dunbar, born in South Bridgewater, Apr. 6, 1779; moved to Warren, Maine with her parents when six years old.</p><P>My grandmother, Mary (Tower) White, died at Dorchester, Aug. 1804, aged 49 years.  My grandfather, Lott White, died at Dorchester, 1820, aged 70 years.  My mother (Vesta [Dunbar] White,) died at Charleston, May, 1855, aged 76 years."</p><P>(Signed) Joseph F. White<LB>Charles Street, Boston 1847</p><P>"This additional record made by me for Henry H. Ellis and Elizabeth (Capen) Ellis of California.  Elizabeth is the daughter of Maj. General Capen of Dorchester and grand-daughter of Vesta Dunbar White, and my niece.  I desire this paper to accompany the portraits of my father and mother, heretofore presented to the Ellis family of Elliston, California.</p><P>(Signed) at Boston this 20th Nov., A.D., 1892</p><P>Joseph White said that his parents claimed direct descent from Perigrine White of the <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058b.sgm:, but as all records of White and Capen families were destroyed when lightning struck and burned the Capen home on Deer Island, Maine, in 1858, I have so far been unable to prove this claim.</p><P>This much of the White genealogy is vouched for by several sources.</p><P>1.  Micah White, b. Dec. 10, 1721; m. Susanna Eager, daughter of farmer of Braintree; Micah d. 1802, Titticut; his son</p><P>2.  Lott White, b. 1748/9; d. 1820; m. Polly (Mary) Tower.  His son</p><P>3.  John (Capt.) White, b. 1777; d. 1847; m. Vesta Dunbar; b. 1779.  Their daughter</p><P>4.  Izanah White, b. abt. 1800; d. 1844; m. Maj. Gen. Aaron Capen.</p><P>5.  Elizabeth Capen, b. Dec. 22, 1828; d. Sept. 13, 1913</p><P>QUOTE FROM THE BOSTON TRANSCRIPT OF DEC. 3, 1906.</p><P>"Ebenezer Gay White, born in Gardiner, Me., May 6th, 1796, married Izanah Capen.  She was the daughter of Major General Capen.  Her mother's maiden name was White (Vesta Dunbar) and she was a direct descendent of Perigrine White, the first child of English parents born in New England on board the <HI REND="italics">Mayflower</HI>
058b.sgm: lying at anchor."</p><P>GENEALOGY OF THE CAPEN FAMILY.<LB>FIRST GENERATION<LB>BERNARD CAPEN, b. in England; m. Joan, dau.  Oliver Purchase, 1596; d. Nov. 8, 1638, aged 76 years; Joan, d. Mar. 26, 1653, age 75 years.<LB>Their children:</p><P>SECOND GENERATION<LB>1.  Ruth, b. Aug./Sept, 1600, in England.</p><P>2.  Suzannah, b. Apr. 7, 1602; d. Nov. 13, 1666.</p><P>3.  JOHN (CAPT.), b. Jan. 12, 1612.  (Came to Dorchester with parents in ship <HI REND="italics">Mary and John</HI>
058b.sgm:, May 30, 1630); d, Dec. 1690; m, 1st, Redigon Clapp, Oct. 20, 1637; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:, in 1630 and with others settled and named Dorchester, Mass.  He was a freeman and grantee of Crown lands.  He was a Selectman for 16 years; Representative for 6 years; Town Clerk for 13 years and military officer, 50 years.  John and his mother, Mrs. Bernard Capen, gave and signed compact for the FIRST FREE PUBLIC SCHOOL in America at Dorchester.</p><P>His son, Joseph, graduated from Harvard College, 1677; became Administrator, (Minister) in Topsfield, Mass. and was called "Parson Capen."  The original house was still there in 1955.  (Visited by a family connection, Mr. and Mrs. G.M. Oschier, 1955).</p><P>Samuel G. was the first Unitarian minister in South Boston, and his son Charles J. was Master of Boston Latin School for 50 years.  (He was called "Cudjo" by the students.  Also a musician, he was organist for 20 years in the Unitarian Church, Dedham, Mass.)</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:<P>In Gardiner, Me., stands a town monument, inscribed:  "MASSACHUSETTS YOUNGEST MAJOR GENERAL--AARON CAPEN."</p><P>General Capen was in command of troops when the Madawuska War was threatened, and considered inevitable on the Eastern border of Maine, owing to disputed boundary between Maine and British Provinces.  (Above item taken from an old manuscript by Gen. Aaron Capen) H.H.E.</p><P>General Aaron Capen was Major General of Massachusetts Militia at 32 years.  He was in command at the time of the visit of Gen. Marquis de Lafayette in 1824 the troops on Boston Common.  General and led the escort to Boston and reviewed Capen entertained the French General in his home in Dorchester.</p><P>REPORT AT ADJUTANT'S OFFICE, taken by George B. Grant (grandson), of GENERAL AARON CAPEN, BOSTON, MASS., DEC. 13, 1880.<LB>Aaron Capen of Dorchester, Mass., b. Apr. 10, 1796; d. Apr. 25, 1886.<LB><HI REND="italics">Ensign</HI>
058b.sgm: 1st Regiment<LB>1st Brigade<LB>1st Division........May 7, 1822<LB><HI REND="italics">Lieutenant</HI>
058b.sgm: 1st Regiment<LB>1st Brigade<LB>1st Division....Feb. 20, 1823.  Transferred to Rifle Company, May 5, 1823<LB><HI REND="italics">Major</HI>
058b.sgm: --Same Company as above, Sept. 26, 1823<LB><HI REND="italics">Colonel</HI>
058b.sgm: --Same Company as above, June 21, 1824<LB><HI REND="italics">Brig. General</HI>
058b.sgm: --Same Company as above, April 9, 1827<LB><HI REND="italics">Major General</HI>
058b.sgm: --Same Company as above, Feb. 22, 1829<LB>He was long associated with the principal military and civil officers of Boston, and neighboring town and was noted as a prompt and energetic officer.</p><P>The Capen farm in Dorchester was jointly owned by Aaron and his younger brother, Lemuel.  After his mother's (Joan, wife of John) death, his father, John, asked Aaron to take charge of the farm.  Against his own judgment, he consented to do so.</p><P>He raised the farm to a high state of cultivation, increased crops and livestock; cleared 8 acres of pasture land, and blasted rock (boulders) to build 120 rods of double stonewall across front of entrance.  (See illustration.)  It was said that one could trot a horse on this wall.  Aaron also built a barn on the marsh, and other out buildings.</p><P>By a combination of fraudulent circumstances, his brother, Lemuel forced Aaron, who had put so much labor and his own means, after his father's death, on the property, while Lemuel had done neither, to relinquish the property to him, Lemuel.  See STATEMENT OF AARON in pamphlet, several copies of which are in hands of Ellis descendents.</p><P>Aaron moved his family to Maine, 1834.  From the government he purchased two islands of nearly 8,000 acres, covered with timber, for $1.25 an acre.  He became Agent to the logging interests on the Kennebec River (whose source is Moosehead Lake).  He built a home on Deer Island, which was struck by lightning and destroyed, June 1858, and with it all family documents, including those showing his legal interest to the Dorchester property.  Courts had confirmed his rights to the property, but on the evening before the decision was to be rendered, Lemuel, committed suicide by drowning.</p><P>"THE OLD CAPEN HOMESTEAD AT DORCHESTER"<LB>"The <HI REND="italics">Capen Farm</HI>
058b.sgm: has been in possession of the family since 1630, a period of 240 years.  Its extensive and symmetrical area, its sightliness and healthful elevation commend it favorably to the committee.  The price, moderate, 5 1/2 cts. per foot."<LB><HI REND="italics">Quotation, in part, from a Boston paper, dated 1870</HI>
058b.sgm:.</p><P>Thus the <HI REND="italics">Capen Farm</HI>
058b.sgm: became the Home for the Tubercular of Boston.</p><P>GENEALOGY OF THE ELLIS FAMILY IN AMERICA</p><P>(<HI REND="italics">The original Norman name as recorded in the Dooms Book, 1188, was Ellese; Elice; Els</HI>
058b.sgm:.)</p><P>FIRST GENERATION<LB>LIEUT. JOHN ELLIS, b. in Kent Co. (probably) England, abt. 1599; Came to Lynn, Mass. abt. 1630; removed to Sandwich, Mass., 1635; d. Dec. 1677; m. 1645, Elizabeth, daughter of Edmund Freeman 1st and granddaughter of Gov. Prince. Children were:</p><P>1.  Mordecai, b. 1651<LB>2.  John, b. n.d. ............<LB>3.  Nathaniel, b. 1656<LB>4.  Samuel, b. n.d. ............<LB>5.  MATHIAS, b. June 2nd, 1657, in Sandwich, Mass.</p><P>SECOND GENERATION<LB>MATHIAS, called Junior, son of Lieut. John; m. 1678, Mary, daughter of John Burgess <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm: in 1624.</p><P>The original name, <HI REND="italics">de Launy</HI>
058b.sgm:, became <HI REND="italics">de la Noe</HI>
058b.sgm: and finally Delano Philip m. Hester Dewbury from Gloucester, England. Duxbury is a corruption of her name.  Philip m. 2nd, Mary Churchill. They had nine children.  The family was one of the position and means.  Jonathan was one of the purchasers of Dartmouth, 1652.  Philip and Benny gave permission to build on their land, "Front of ye gallerie of Town House", 1714.</p><P>Judah in 1773, addressing the people, said, "Liberty or death", for a war cry.  His daughter Priscilla, m. a Sanford; 2nd, Dr. Spooner.  She d. Kent, Ohio, in her 95th year.</p><P>Pegleg 1st, b. Dartmouth 1761; d. Sidney, Me., 1854, at 92 yrs; m. Sarah Sampson.  Their children:</p><P>Benjamin, Ruby, Pegleg Jr., Able, Silas, Anna and Anna 2nd, b. Sidney, Me., Sept. 20, 1774; d. Aug. 19, 1808; m. James Crommett Jr., son of James and Abigail Pinkham Crommett of Waterville, Apr. 14, 1793.<LB>Their daughter, Cynthia Irish Crommett m. Charles Henry Ellis, who became the father of Henry Hiram Ellis.  Pegleg 1st built a grist mill on Delano Brook, near the bank of the Kennebec River, Waterville.  It was on this gristmill where Henry H. Ellis found the Delano family clock, and Galusha, daughter of Sarah Elizabeth Delano gave it to him.  Pegleg Jr., had four sons in the Civil War.  Nathan was a naval captain in the Revolution; Samuel was killed in King Philipp's war; Zabdial was killed at Harlem battle, Sept. 16, 1776.</p><P>Amassa, was a famous navigator; commanded one or more English ships of discovery and published a book of voyages and travel in 1817; joined Privateers War (22 guns of Boston) and served 9 months at Fishkill.  In 1775 Jonathan Delano served in Pegleg Wadsworth's Company; Malachi, Luther and Samuel served in Andrew Sampson's Company.</p><P>(Above records were taken from <HI REND="italics">History of Duxbury; Revolutionary Records; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:; grave stones at Sidney, Me.; <HI REND="italics">History of Winthrop, Me.,</HI>
058b.sgm: Maine State Library; others from Savage's <HI REND="italics">Genealogical Dictionary</HI>
058b.sgm:; Farmer's <HI REND="italics">Genealogical Registry</HI>
058b.sgm:; Davis' <HI REND="italics">History of Plymouth</HI>
058b.sgm:; Davis' <HI REND="italics">Ancient Landmarks of Plymouth</HI>
058b.sgm: and from many other sources.</p><P>Records of Ellis family in England say that John Ellis was Dean of Hereford, A.D. 1559.  ( <HI REND="italics">Wills and Cathedrals</HI>
058b.sgm:, p. 64.  Barry's <HI REND="italics">Genealogy</HI>
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058b.sgm:<BACK><DIV><P>NOTES</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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058b.sgm:<P>NOTES</p></DIV>
059.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-059</TITLE>
059.sgm:<TITLE>California sketches.  By O.P. Fitzgerald: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
059.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
059.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
059.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
059.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
059.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
059.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
059.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>02-19015</LCCN>
059.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
059.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>3459</COPYRIGHT>
059.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA SKETCHES.<LB>BY<LB>O. P. FITZGERALD.</P>
059.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"<HI REND="italics">And one upon the West <LB>Turned an eye that would not rest,<LB>For far-off hills whereon his joys had been</HI>
059.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">FOURTH EDITION</HI>
059.sgm:<P>NASHVILLE, TENN.:<LB>SOUTHERN METHODIST PUBLISHING HOUSE.<LB>1880.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by<LB>O. P. FITZGERALD,<LB>in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>AUTHOR'S PREFACE.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>THESE Sketches wrote themselves, as it were.  About three years ago my friend, Prof. Alonzo Phelps (formerly of Harvard University), in reply to my remark that somebody ought to preserve the vanishing phases of the early California life, said, "Yes, it ought to be done, and you are the man to do it."  The matter was then dismissed from my mind as the flattering suggestion of a partial friend. After leaving California, every thing connected with my life, or that had come under my observation while there, assumed a fresh interest to my own mind.  The remark of my friend was remembered, and, more to gratify a kindly impulse than with a view to make a volume, in snatches of such leisure as an editor gets, the penciling of these humble Sketches began.  Now that the little book is finished, I am at least half sorry it was ever begun.  Yet there has been a pleasure in writing it.  The old days have come back to me again, and images that were fading have stood before me in the form and color of life.  Ah! if I could make them stand thus before my kind readers!  The Sketches are all from real life.  In one or two instances names are disguised for obvious reasons.  I have told the story as I saw it, and as I remember it.  There is no fancy-sketch among these chapters.  If I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>My motive in publishing in this form is not a bad one.  It is not literary ambition; for I am conscious that the risk is equal to the possible gain in that direction.  It is not to put a shadow upon the memory of the dead, or to inflict a pang upon a living soul.  My motive is such as all noble spirits would approve, but which need not be stated here.  With these words I send forth my little book, leaving it to its fate.</P>
059.sgm:<P>One of these chapters is from a different hand.  Which one it is, is left to the discrimination of the critical reader.</P>
059.sgm:<P>O. P. FITZGERALD.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Nashville, September, 1879.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>MY FIRST SUNDAY IN THE MINES<HSEP>7<LB>CISSAHA<HSEP>14<LB>A YOUTHFUL DESPERADO<HSEP>28<LB>A WOMAN OF THE EARLY DAYS<HSEP>33<LB>LOST ON TABLE MOUNTAIN<HSEP>41<LB>FULTON<HSEP>52<LB>BLIGHTED<HSEP>59<LB>STRANDED<HSEP>65<LB>LOCKLEY<HSEP>72<LB>FATHER COX<HSEP>81<LB>AN INTERVIEW<HSEP>89<LB>STEWART<HSEP>97<LB>THE ETHICS OF GRIZZLY HUNTING<HSEP>107<LB>A MENDOCINO MURDER<HSEP>114<LB>BEN<HSEP>120<LB>OLD TUOLUMNE<HSEP>124<LB>THE BLUE LAKES<HSEP>127<LB>A CALIFORNIA MOUNTAIN ROAD<HSEP>133<LB>DR. ELEAZAR THOMAS<HSEP>135<LB>FATHER ACOLTI<HSEP>144<LB>MY FIRST CALIFORNIA CAMP-MEETING<HSEP>150<LB>THE TRAGEDY AT ALGERINE<HSEP>160<LB>CALIFORNIA TRAITS<HSEP>168<LB>CALIFORNIA WEDDINGS<HSEP>182<LB>NORTH BEACH, SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>197<LB>ST. HELEN'S AT SUNRISE<HSEP>208</P>
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059.sgm:<HEAD>MY FIRST SUNDAY IN THE MINES.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>SONORA, in 1855, was an exciting, wild, wicked, fascinating place.  Gold-dust and gamblers were plentiful.  A rich mining camp is a bonanza to the sporting fraternity.  The peculiar excitement of mining is near akin to gambling, and seems to prepare the gold-hunter for the faro-bank and monte-table.  The life was free and spiced with tragedy.  The men were reckless, the women few and not wholly select.  The conventionalities of older communities were ignored.  People dressed and talked as they pleased, and were a law unto themselves.  Even a parson could gallop at full speed through a mining camp without exciting remark.  To me it was all new, and at first a little bewildering, but there was a charm about it that lingers pleasantly in the memory after the lapse of all these long years from 1855 to 1879.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Sonora was a picture unique in its beauty as I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>Descending to the main street again, I found it crowded with flannel-shirted men.  They seemed to be excited, judging from their loud tones and fierce gesticulations.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"They have caught Felipe at French Camp, and they will have him here by ten o'clock," said one of a group near me.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes, and the boys are getting ready to swing the -- greaser when he gets here," said another, savagely.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>On inquiry, I learned that the gentleman for whose arrival such preparation was being made was a Mexican who had stabbed to the heart a policeman named Sheldon two nights before.  The assassin fled the town, but the sheriff and his posse had gotten on his track, and, pursuing rapidly, had overtaken him at French Camp, and were now returning with their prisoner in charge.  Sheldon was a good-natured, generous fellow, popular with the "boys."  He was brave to a fault, perhaps a little too ready at times to use his pistol.  Two Mexicans had been shot by him since his call to police duty, and though the Americans justified him in so doing, the Mexicans cherished a bitter feeling toward him.  Sheldon knew that he was hated by those swarthy fellows whose strong point is not forgiveness of enemies, and not long before the tragedy was heard to say, in a half-serious tone, "I expect to die in my boots."  Poor fellow! it came sooner than he thought.</P>
059.sgm:<P>By ten o'clock Washington street was densely thronged by red and blue-shirted men, whose remarks showed that they were ripe for mischief.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Hang him, I say!  If we allow the officers who watch for our protection when we are asleep to be murdered in this way nobody is safe.  I say hang him!" shouted a thick-chested miner, gritting his teeth.</P>
059.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"That's the talk! swing him!"  "Hang him!"  "Put cold lead through him!" and such like expressions were heard on all sides.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Suddenly there was a rush of the crowd toward the point where Washington street intersected with the Jamestown road.  Then the tide flowed backward, and came surging by the place where I was standing.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"There he comes! at him, boys!"  "A rope! a rope!"  "Go for him!" shouted a hundred voices.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The object of the popular execration, guarded by the sheriff and posse of about twenty men, was hurried along in the middle of the street, his hat gone, his bosom bare, a red sash round his waist.  He was a bad-looking fellow, and in the rapid glances he cast at the angry crowd around him there was more of hate than fear.  The flashes of his dark eyes made one think of the gleam of the deadly Spanish dirk.  The twenty picked men guarding him had each a revolver in his hand, with Major Solomon, the sheriff, at their head.  The mob knew Solomon.  He had distinguished himself for cool courage in the Mexican war, and they were well aware that those pistols were paraded for use if occasion demanded.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The prisoner was taken into the Placer Hotel, where the coroner's jury was held, the mob surrounding the building and roaring like a sea.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"There they come! go for him, boys!" was shouted as the doors were flung open, and Felipe appeared, attended by his guard.</P>
059.sgm:<P>A rush was made, but there was Solomon with his twenty men pistol in hand, and no man dared to lay a hand on the murderer.  With steady step they marched to the jail, the crowd parting as the sheriff and his posse advanced, and the prisoner was hurried inside and the doors locked.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Baffled thus, for a few moments the mob was silent, and then it exploded with imprecations and yells.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Break open the door!"  "Tear down the jail!"  "Bring him out!"  "Who has a rope?"  "Out with him!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>Cool and collected, Solomon stood on the doorstep, his twenty men standing holding their revolvers ready.  The County Judge Quint attempted to address the excited mass, but his voice was drowned by their yells.  The silver-tongued Henry P. Barber, an orator born, and whose sad career would make a romance of thrilling interest, essayed to speak, but even his magic voice was lost in the tornado of popular fury.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I had climbed a high fence above the jail-yard, where the whole scene was before me.  When Barber gave up the attempt to get a hearingfrom the mob, there was a momentary silence.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"Will you hear me a moment?  I am not fool enough to think that with these twenty men I can whip this crowd.  You can overcome us by your numbers and kill us if you choose.  Perhaps you will do it--I am ready for that.  I don't say I can prevent you, but I do say [and here his eye kindled and his voice had a steel-like ring] <HI REND="italics">the first man that touches that jail-door dies</HI>
059.sgm:<P>There was a perceptible thrill throughout that dense mass of human beings.  No man volunteered to lead an assault on the jail-door.  Solomon followed up this stroke:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Boys, when you take time to reflect, you will see that this is all wrong.  I was elected by your votes, and you are acting in bad faith when you put me in a position where I must violate my sworn duty or fight you.  This is the holy Sabbath-day.  Back in our old homes we have been used to different scenes from this.  The prisoner will be kept, and tried, and duly punished by the law.  Let us give three cheers for the clergy of California, two of whom I see present [pointing to where my Presbyterian neighbor, the Rev. S. S. Harmon, and I were perched conspicuously], and then go home like good citizens."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Courage and tact prevailed.  The mob was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>I lingered alone, and was struck with the sudden transition.  The sun was sinking in the west, already the town below was wrapped in shade, the tops of the encircling hills caught the lingering beams, the loftier crest of Bald Mountain blazing as if it were a mass of burnished gold.  It was the calm and glory of nature in sharp contrast with the turbulence and brutality of men.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Wending my way back to the hotel, I seated myself on the piazza of the second story, and watched the motley crowd going in and out of the "Long Tom" drinking and gambling saloon across the street, musing upon the scenes of my first Sunday in the mines.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CISSAHA.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>I FIRST noticed him one night at a prayer-meeting at Sonora, in the Southern Mines, in 1855.  He came in timidly, and took a seat near the door.  His manner was reverent, and he watched the exercises with curious interest, his eyes following every gesture of the preacher, and his ears losing not a word that was said or sung.  I was struck with his peculiar physiognomy as he sat there with his thin, swarthy face, his soft, sad, black eyes, and long black hair.  I could not make him out; he might be Mexican, Spanish, Portuguese, "Kanaka," or what not.  He waited until I passed out at the close of the meeting, and, bowing very humbly, placed half a dollar in my hand, and walked away.  This happened several weeks in succession, and I noticed him at church on Sunday evenings.  He would come in after the crowd had entered, and take his place near the door.  He never failed to hand me the half dollar at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>I was sitting one morning in the little room on the hill-side, which was at once dining-room, parlor, bed-chamber, and study, when, lifting my eyes a moment from the book I was reading, there stood my strange foreigner in the door.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Come in," I said kindly.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Making profound salaams, he rushed impulsively toward me, exclaiming in broken English--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"My good brahmin!  My good brahmin!"  with a torrent of words that I could not understand.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I invited him to take a seat, but he declined.  He looked flushed and excited, his dark eyes flashing.  I soon found that he could understand English much better than he could speak it himself.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"What is your name?"  I asked.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Cissaha," he answered, accenting strongly the last syllable.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Of what nation are you?"  was my next question.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Me Hindoo--me good caste," he added rather proudly.</P>
059.sgm:<P>After gratifying my curiosity by answering my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>This was Cissaha's story.  He had come to me for redress.  I felt no little sympathy for him as he stood before me, so helpless in a strange land.  He had been shamefully wronged, and I felt indignant at the recital.  But I told him that while I was sorry for him, I could do nothing; he had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"No, no!"  he said passionately; "you my good brahmin; you go Whisky Hill, you make Flank Powell pay my money!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>He seemed to think that as a teacher of religion I must be invested also with some sort of authority in civil matters.  I could not make him understand that this was not so.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You ride horse, me walk; Flank Powell see my good brahmin come, he pay money," urged Cissaha.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Yielding to a sudden impulse, I told him I would go with him.  He bowed almost to the floor, and the tears, which had flowed freely as he told his tale of wrongs, were wiped away.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Mounting Dr. Jack Franklin's sorrel horse--my pen pauses as I write the name of that noble Tennessean, that true and generous friend--I started to Whisky Hill, my client keeping alongside on foot.</P>
059.sgm:<P>As we proceeded, I could not help feeling that I was on a sort of fool's errand.  It was certainly a new <HI REND="italics">role</HI>
059.sgm:<P>I found that Cissaha was well known in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"There my good brahmin-- <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"Powell is a rough customer," said a tall young fellow from New York, who stood near the trail with a pick in his hand; "he will give you trouble before you get through with him."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Cissaha only shook his head in a knowing way and hastened on, keeping my sorrel in a brisk little trot.</P>
059.sgm:<P>A stout and ill-dressed woman was standing in the porch of Mr. Powell's establishment as I rode up.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Is Mr. Powell at home?  I asked.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes, he is in the house," she said dryly, scowling alternately at Cissaha and me.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Please tell him that I would like to see him."</P>
059.sgm:<P>She went into the house after giving us a parting angry glance, and in a few minutes Mr. Powell made his appearance.  He looked the ruffian that he was all over.  A huge fellow, with enormous breadth between the shoulders, and the chest of a bull, with a fiery red face, blear blue eyes red at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:the corners, coarse sandy hair, and a villainous <HI REND="italics">tout ensemble</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"What do you want with me?"  he growled out after taking a look at us.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I understand," I answered in my blandest tones, "that there has been some difficulty in making a settlement between you and this Hindoo man, and at his request I have come over to see if I can help to adjust it."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"--you!"  said the ruffian, "if you come here meddling with my affairs I'll knock you off that horse."</P>
059.sgm:<P>He <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
059.sgm:<P>Cissaha looked a little alarmed, and drew nearer to me.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I looked the man in the eye and answered--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I am not afraid of any violence at your hands.  You dare not attempt it.  You have cruelly wronged this poor foreigner, and you know it.  Every man in the camp condemns you for it, and is ashamed of your conduct.  Now, I intend to see this thing through.  I will devote a year to it and spend every dollar I can raise if necessary to make you pay this debt!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>By this time quite a crowd of miners had gathered around us, and there were unmistakable expressions of approval of my speech.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"That's the right sort of talk!" exclaimed a grizzly-bearded man in a red shirt.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Stand up to him, parson!" said another.</P>
059.sgm:<P>There was a pause.  Powell, as I learned afterward, was detested in the camp.  He had the reputation of a bully and a cheat.  I think he was likewise a coward.  At any rate, as I warmed with virtuous indignation, he cooled.  Perhaps he did not like the expressions on the faces of the rough, athletic men standing around.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"What do you want me to do?" he asked in a sullen tone.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I want you to pay this man what you owe him," I answered.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The negotiations begun thus unpromisingly ended very happily.  After making some deduction on some pretext or other, the money was paid, much to my relief and the joy of my client.  Mr. Powell indulged in no parting courtesies, nor did he tender me the hospitalities of his house.  I have never seen him from that day to this.  I have never wished to renew his acquaintance.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Cissaha marched back to Sonora in triumph.</P>
059.sgm:<P>A few days after the Whisky Hill adventure, as I was sitting on the rear side of the little parsonage to get the benefit of the shade, I had another visit from Cissaha.  He had on his shoulder a miner's pick and shovel, which he laid down at my feet.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"What is that for?" I asked.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"My good brahmin look at pick and shobel, then no break, and find heap gold," said he, his face full of trust and hopefulness.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I cast a kindly glance at the implements, and did not think it worth while to combat his innocent superstition.  If good wishes could have brought him good luck the poor fellow would have prospered in his search after gold.</P>
059.sgm:<P>From that time on he was scarcely ever absent from church services, never omitting to pay his weekly half dollar.  More than once I observed the tears running down his cheeks as he sat near the door, eye and ear all attent to the service.</P>
059.sgm:<P>A day or two before my departure for Conference, at the end of my two years in Sonora, Cissaha made me a visit.  He looked sad and anxious.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You go way?" he inquired.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes, I must go," I answered.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You no come back Sonora?" he asked.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"No; I cannot come back," I said.</P>
059.sgm:<P>He stood a moment, his chest heaving with emotion, and then said--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Me go with you, me live where you live, me die where you die"--almost the very words of the fair young Moabite.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Cissaha went with us.  How could I refuse to take him?  At San Jose he lived with us, doing our cooking, nursing our little Paul, and making himself generally useful.  He taught us to love curry and to eat cucumbers Hindoo fashion--that is, stewed with veal or chicken.  He was the gentlest and most docile of servants, never out of temper, and always anxious to please.  Little Paul was very fond of him, and often he would take him off in his baby-wagon, and they would be gone for hours together.</P>
059.sgm:<P>He never tired asking questions about the Christian religion, and manifested a peculiar delight in the words and life of Jesus.  One day he came into my study and said--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Me want you to make me Christian."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I can't make you a Christian--Jesus can do it," I answered.</P>
059.sgm:<P>He looked greatly puzzled and troubled at this reply, but when I had explained the whole matter to him, he brightened up and intimated that he wanted to join the Church.  I enrolled his name as a probationer, and his delight was unbounded.</P>
059.sgm:<P>One day Cissaha came to me all smiling, and said--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Me want to give all the preachers one big dinner."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Very well," I answered; "I will let you do so.  How many do you want?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Me want heap preachers, table all full," he said.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<LB>He gave me to understand that the feast must be altogether his own--his money must buy every thing, even to the salt and pepper for seasoning the dishes.  He would use nothing that was in the house, but bought flour, fowls, beef, vegetables, confectionery, coffee, tea, everything for the great occasion.  He made a grand dinner, not forgetting the curry, and with a table full of preachers to enjoy it, he was a picture of happiness.  His dark face beamed with delight as he handed around the viands to the smiling and appreciative guests.  He had some Hindoo notion that there was great merit in feasting so many belonging to the brahmin caste.  To him the dinner was a sort of sacrifice most acceptable to Heaven.</P>
059.sgm:<P>My oriental domestic seemed very happy for some months, and became a general favorite on account of his gentle manners, docile temper, and obliging disposition.  His name was shortened to "Tom" by the popular usage, and under the instructions of the mistress of the parsonage he began the study of English.  Poor fellow! he never could make the sound of f or z, the former always turning to <HI REND="italics">p</HI>
059.sgm:, and the latter to <HI REND="italics">g</HI>
059.sgm:<P>A change came over Cissaha.  He became all at once moody and silent.  Several times I found him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>One afternoon the secret came out.  He came into my room.  There were traces of tears on his cheeks.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I go 'way--can stay with my pather [father] no more," he said, with a quiver in his voice.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Why, what is the matter?" I asked.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Debbil in here," he answered, touching his forehead.  "Debbil tell me drink whisky; me no drink where my pather stay, so must go."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Why, I did not know you ever drank whisky; where did you learn that?" I asked.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Me drink with the boys at Flank Powell's--drink beer and whisky.  No drink for long time, but debbil in here [touching his forehead] say <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
059.sgm:<P>He was a picture of shame and grief as he stood there before me.  How hard he must have fought against the appetite for strong drink since he had been with me!--and how full of shame and sorrow he was to confess his weakness to me!  He told me all about it--how he had been treated to beer and whisky by the good-natured miners, and how the taste for liquor had grown on him, and how he had resisted for a time, and how he had at last yielded to the feeling that the devil was too strong for him.  That the devil was in it, he seemed to have no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"You should pray, Cissaha."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Me pray all night, but debbil too strong--me <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
059.sgm:<P>He left us.  The parting was very sad to him and us.  He had a special cry over little Paul.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You my pather [to me]; you my mother [to my wife]; I go, but me pack you both always in my belly!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>We could but smile through our tears.  The poor fellow meant to say he would still bear us in his grateful heart in his wanderings.</P>
059.sgm:<P>After a few months he came to see us.  He looked seedy and sad.  He had found employment, but did not stay long at a place.  He had stopped awhile with a Presbyterian minister in the Sacramento Valley, and was solicited by him to join the Church.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Me tell him no!" he said, his eye flashing; "me tell him my pather done make me Christian; me no want to be made Christian again."</P>
059.sgm:<P>The poor fellow was true to his first love, sad Christian as he was.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Me drink no whisky for four, five week--me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>That was what he had come for chiefly.  I gave him the form of a short and simple prayer.  He repeated it after me in his way until he had it by heart, and then he left.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Once or twice a year he came to see us, and always had a pathetic tale to tell of his struggles with strong drink, and the greed and violence of men who were tempted to oppress and maltreat a poor creature whose weakness invited injustice.</P>
059.sgm:<P>He told us of an adventure when acting as a sheep-herder in Southern California, whither he had wandered.  A large flock of sheep which he had in charge had been disturbed in the corral a couple of nights in succession.  On the third night, hearing a commotion among them, he sprang up from his bunk and rushed out to see what was the matter.  But let him tell the story:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Me run out to see what's matter; stars shine blight; me get into corral; sheep all bery much scared, and bery much run, and bery much jump.  Big black bear jump over corral fence and come right for me.  Me so flighten me know nothing, but raise my arms, run at bear, and say, <HI REND="italics">E-e-e-e-e-e</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"Well, how did it end?" I asked.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"Me scream so loud that bear get scared too, and he turn, run bery fast, jump over corral, and run away."</P>
059.sgm:<P>We did not doubt this story.  The narration was too vivid to have been invented, and that scream was enough to upset the nerves of any grizzly.</P>
059.sgm:<P>We got to looking for him at regular intervals.  He would bring candies and little presents for the children, and would give a tearful recital of his experiences and take a tearful leave of us.  He was fighting his enemy and still claiming to be a Christian.  He said many things which showed that he had thought earnestly and deeply on religious subjects, and he would end by saying, "Jesus, help me!  Jesus, help me!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>He came to see us after the death of our Paul, and he wept when we told him how our dear boy had left us.  He had had a long sickness in the hospital.  He had before expressed a desire to go back to his own country, and now this desire had grown into a passion.  His wan face lighted up as he looked wistfully seaward from the bay-window of our cottage on the hill above the Golden Gate.  He left us with a slow and feeble step, often looking back as long as he was in sight.</P>
059.sgm:<P>That was the last of Cissaha.  I know not whether he is in Hindostan or the world of spirits.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A YOUTHFUL DESPERADO.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>THERE'S a young chap in the jail over there you ought to go and see.  It's the one who killed the two Chinamen on Woods's Creek, a few weeks ago.  He goes by the name of Tom Ellis.  He is scarcely more than a boy, but he is a hard one.  May be you can do him some good."</P>
059.sgm:<P>This was said to me by one of the sheriff's deputies, a kind-hearted fellow, but brave as a lion--one of those quiet, low-voiced men who do the most daring things in a matter-of-course way--a man who never made threats and never showed a weapon except when he was about to use it with deadly effect.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The next day I went over to see the young murderer.  I was startled at his youthful appearance, and struck with his beauty.  His features were feminine in their delicacy, and his skin was almost as soft and fair as a child's.  He had dark hair, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:bright blue eyes, and white teeth.  He was of medium size, and was faultless in <HI REND="italics">physique</HI>
059.sgm:<P>This fair-faced, almost girlish youth, had committed one of the most atrocious double murders ever known.  Approaching two Chinamen who were working an abandoned mining claim on the creek, he demanded their gold-dust, exhibiting at the same time a Bowie-knife.  The Chinamen, terrified, dropped their mining tools and fled, pursued by the young devil, who, fleet of foot, soon overtook the poor creatures, and with repeated stabs in the back cut them down.  A passer-by found him engaged in rifling their pockets of the gold-dust, to the value of about twenty dollars, which had tempted him to commit the horrid crime.</P>
059.sgm:<P>These were the facts in the case, as brought out in the trial.  It was also shown that he had borne a very bad name, associating with the worst characters, and being suspected strongly of other crimes against life and property.  He was convicted and sentenced to death.</P>
059.sgm:<P>This was the man I had come to see.  He received me politely, but I made little progress in my attempt to turn his thoughts to the subject of preparation for death.  He allowed me to read the Bible in his cell and pray for him, but I could see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"Have you a mother living?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes; she lives in Ohio, and is a member of the Baptist Church."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Does she know where you are?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"No--she thinks I'm dead, and she will never know any better.  It's just as well--it would do the old lady no good.  The name I go by here is not my real name--no man in California knows my true name."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Even this chord did not respond.  He was as cold and hard as ice.  I kept up my visits to him, and continued my efforts to win him to thoughts suitable to his condition, but he never showed the least sign of penitence or feeling of any kind.  He was the only human being I have ever met who did not have a tender spot somewhere in his nature.  If he had any such spot, my poor skill failed to discover it.</P>
059.sgm:<P>One day, after I had spent an hour or more with him, he said to me--</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"You mean well in coming here to see me, and I'm always glad to see you, as I get very lonesome, but there's no use in keeping up any deception about the matter.  I don't care any thing about religion, and all your talk on that subject is wasted.  But if you could help me to get out of this jail, so that I could kill the man whose evidence convicted me, I would thank you.  -- him!  I would be willing to die if I could kill him first!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>As he spoke his eye glittered like a serpent's, and I felt that I was in the presence of a fiend.  From this time on there was no disguise on his part; he thirsted for blood, and hated to die chiefly because it cut him off from his revenge.  He did not deny the commission of the murders, and cared no more for it than he would for the shooting of a rabbit.  As a psychological study, this fair young devil profoundly interested me, and I sought to learn more of his history, that I might know how much of his fiendishness was due to organic tendency, and how much to evil association.  But he would tell nothing of his former life, and I was left to conjecture as to what were the influences that had so completely blasted every bud and blossom of good in one so young.  And he was so handsome!</P>
059.sgm:<P>He made several desperate attempts to break jail, and was loaded down with extra irons and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A WOMAN OF THE EARLY DAYS.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>ONE day in the summer of 1856, I was called to attend a wedding in the city of Sonora.  At the appointed hour I repaired to the house designated, a neat little cottage surrounded with flowers and shrubbery.  A pleasant party had already assembled in the snug little parlor.  In a few minutes the bridegroom entered the room.  He was a fine specimen of manly beauty.  He had a faultless figure, a handsome, winning face, and graceful manners, a little dashed with Californian <HI REND="italics">abandon</HI>
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059.sgm:<P>This marriage made a brief sensation.  The parties were both well known, and the bride's California life made one of those romantic episodes so common in those early days.  The romance, alas! was too often tinged with the darker colors of sin.  So it was in this case.  This is the story of Kate S--, as told to me by herself:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I was the youngest child of a happy family near L--, in Pennsylvania.  I was called pretty, and was the pet of the household.  When I was scarcely sixteen, while still a school-girl, a wealthy neighbor proposed to marry me.  My father favored the proposal.  I was startled by it, and told my father I did not and could not love him, and would not marry him.  My lover persisted in his addresses, my father seconding his suit, and at last I consented to wed him.  O how bitterly have I rued the day!  I could not love him, and I soon ceased to respect him.  He was cold, selfish, and jealous.  He petted and flattered me at first, but soon discovering that I did not love him, and only endured his caresses, his conduct changed into systematic injustice and oppression.  When a child was born to us, I tried to love him for its sake.  I tried to do my duty as a wife, but was unhappy, despite the wealth for which I had been sold.  My husband's business took an unfortunate turn, and he lost nearly all he had.  Then he became still more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"In 1849 he suddenly avowed his purpose to go to California, and started at once, leaving me with my father.  He had been in California about a year, when he wrote to me, giving an encouraging account of his success, asking me to go to him, and promising to do every thing in his power to make me happy.  I thought it my duty to go, still indulging a lingering hope that he might be a different man, and that we might yet be happy.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I wrote to him, telling him when I would start, and asking him to meet me in San Francisco on my arrival.  When we passed through the Golden Gate, entered the bay, and landed at the wharf, I looked in vain for him among the crowds in waiting.  He was not there--every face was strange.  After waiting in San Francisco two days, I proceeded to Sonora, whence his letters had been written, having barely money enough to meet the expense of the journey.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"On my arrival at Sonora, I learned that he was in the vicinity, and sent for him.  He came, but greeted me coldly, though he seemed glad to see the child, then six years old.  He engaged board for me at a hotel, but left the place without paying.  When the bill was presented to me, having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"Sonora was then almost one great gambling-hell.  Almost everybody gambled.  The dealers of the games were mostly women.  The largest gambling-hell in the city belonged to an old man, one of its most influential citizens.  I was surprised when he came to me one day and proposed to employ me as a monte-dealer.  I shrank from the proposal.  He offered me large wages, and promised to protect me as his own daughter.  At last I yielded, and was soon regularly dealing cards at a monte-table.  My employer was delighted with the result.  Crowds were gathered nightly round the table at which I presided.  I was utterly miserable.  I loathed the very sight of the money I made so rapidly.  Many fearful scenes did I witness in that gambling-hell--men shot dead over the table at which I sat, young men stripped of their last dollar, rushing out desperate, ready for robbery or suicide, old men cursing their luck with clenched hands, and tearing their gray hairs in frenzy--it is horrible to think of it!</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"It was here that I met Frank B--.  He was a gambler of the more gentlemanly sort, and I met him frequently.  I was constantly exposed to insults from the drunken and half-drunken men who frequented the place.  One night a burly ruffian was more grossly insulting than was usual.  Frank B-- was standing near, and quick as thought felled him to the floor with a heavy blow of a loaded cane which he always carried.  The desperado rose to his feet furious with rage, and drawing a Bowie-knife rushed upon Frank, but he was seized, disarmed, and thrust out into the street, after rough handling by a dozen strong men.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Not long after this occurrence, Frank proposed to marry me.  I already knew that I loved him, but I told him that I was a married woman, and could not listen to him.  Steps were taken to procure a divorce.  By his advice I left the gambling-hell, and was full of joy at my release.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Pending the proceedings for divorce, I went to San Francisco, where I passed through temptations and troubles of a very painful character, but which I would forever forget if I could.  At length, the divorce having been effected, I returned to Sonora, where I have lived until now.  It seems as if a dark and troubled dream had passed away, and I had awoke to a bright and happy morning."</P>
059.sgm:<P>After their marriage, they seemed to be perfectly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"Good news!" said she to me one day as I entered the cottage.  "Good news!  Frank has got a deputyship in one of the county offices, and will change his life."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Tears of joy were in her eyes as she told me, and my congratulations were most hearty.  In a few days he entered upon his new employment with a hopeful and happy heart.  When I met him in the streets he seemed to walk more erect, and his eye met mine with a more manly and independent expression.  Handsome before, now he looked noble.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Only a few weeks had elapsed when, having visited a town some twelve miles distant, he was seized with a fever and was brought home in a state of delirium.  His wife had a presentiment from the first that the attack would be fatal.  He seemed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>The blow was a terrible one to her.  Her grief was so wild and fearful that even feminine criticism was awed into silence or melted into sympathy.  Frank's sudden death, and his wife's anguish, broke down the barriers which had previously limited her social life, and she was made to feel the throb of the sympathetic heart of the place.  Conventionalities were swept away by the breath of sorrow.  The only women who held aloof from the mourner were those who had a painful consciousness that their own social standing was somewhat equivocal.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I visited her, and sought to point her to the Source of true consolation.  She interrupted me by demanding fiercely--her eyes fairly blazing--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Do you think my husband is in heaven?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>Not giving me time to answer, she continued in a defiant tone, walking the floor as she spoke, her long hair disheveled, and her hands clasped--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Don't speak to me of religion, unless you can tell me <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
059.sgm: is happy!  If <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
059.sgm: is not saved, I do not wish to be!  <HI REND="italics">Where he is--no higher, no lower--is my heaven</HI>
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059.sgm:<P>She fought a hard battle with poverty and temptation in the mines, drifted down to San Francisco, still looking young and beautiful, and--shall I spoil a romance by telling it?--married a rich man, and is living in luxury.  But I choose to believe all the heart she had to give was buried in Frank B--'s grave on the hill above Sonora.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LOST ON TABLE MOUNTAIN.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>TABLE Mountain is a geological curiosity.  It has puzzled the scientists, excited the wonder of the vulgar, and aroused the cupidity of the gold-hunter.  It is a river without water, a river without banks, a river whose bed is hundreds of feet in the air.  Rising in Calaveras county, it runs southward more than a hundred miles, winding gracefully in its course, and passing through what was one of the richest gold-belts in the world.  But now the bustling camps are still, the thousands who delved the earth for the shining ore are gone, the very houses have disappeared.  The scarred bosom of Mother Earth alone tells of the intensely passionate life that once throbbed among these rocky hills.  A deserted mining-camp is in more senses than one like a battle-field.  Both leave the same tragic impression upon the mind.</P>
059.sgm:<P>What is now Table Mountain was many ages ago a river flowing from the foot of the Sierras into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>I can modestly claim the honor of having preached the first sermon on the south side of Table Mountain, where Mormon Creek was thronged with miners, who filled Davy Jamison's dining-room to attend religious service on Wednesday nights.  It was a big day for us all when we dedicated a board-house to the worship of God and the instruction of youth.  It was both church and school-house.  I have still a very vivid remembrance of that occasion.  My audience was composed of the gold-diggers on the creek, with half a dozen women and nearly as many babies, who insisted on being heard as well as the preacher.  I "kept the floor" until two long, lean yellow dogs had a disagreement, showed their teeth, erected their bristles, sidled up closer and closer, growling, until they suddenly flew at each other like tigers, and fought all over the house.  My plan was not to notice the dogs, and so elevating my voice, I kept on speaking.  The dogs snapped and bit fearfully, the women screamed, the children <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>There were such strong signs of a storm one Wednesday afternoon, that I almost abandoned the idea of filling my appointment on Mormon Creek.  The clouds were boiling up around the crests of the mountains, and the wind blew in heavy gusts.  But, mounting the famous iron-gray pacing pony, I felt equal to any emergency, and at a rapid gait <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:climbed the great hill dividing Sonora from Shaw's Flat, and passing a gap in Table Mountain, was soon dashing along the creek, facing a high wind, and exhilarated by the exercise.  My miners were out in force, and I was glad I had not disappointed them.  It is best in such doubtful cases <HI REND="italics">to go</HI>
059.sgm:<P>By the time the service was over, the weather was still more portentous.  The heavens were covered with thick clouds, and the wind had risen to a gale.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You can never find your way home such a night as this," said a friendly miner.  "You can't see your hand before you."</P>
059.sgm:<P>It was true--the darkness was so dense that not the faintest outline of my hand was visible an inch from my face.  But I had confidence in the lively gray pony, and resolved to go home, having left the mistress of the parsonage alone in the little cabin which stood unfenced on the hill-side, and unprotected by lock or key to the doors.  Mounting, I touched the pony gently with the whip, and he struck off at a lively pace up the road which led along the creek.  I had confidence in the pony, and the pony seemed to have confidence in me.  It was riding by faith, not by sight; I could not see even the pony's neck--the darkness was complete.  I always feel a peculiar elation on horseback, and delighted with the rapid speed we were making, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>Taking a small hand-lantern with half a candle, and an umbrella, I started for Sonora on foot, leaving the pony in the corral.  The rain began to fall just as I began to ascend the trail leading up the mountain, and the wind howled fearfully.  A particularly heavy gust caught my umbrella at a disadvantage and tore it into shreds, and I threw it away and manfully took the rain which now poured in torrents, mingled with hail.  Saturated as I was, the exercise kept me warm.  My chief anxiety was to prevent my candle from being put out by the wind, of which the risk seemed great.  But I protected my lantern with the skirt of my coat, while I watched carefully for the narrow trail.  Winding around the ascent, jumping the mining ditches, and dripping with the rain, I reached the crossing of Table Mountain, and began picking my way among the huge lava-blocks on the summit.  The storm struck me here unobstructed, and it seemed as if I would be actually blown away.  The storm-king of the Sierras was on a big frolic that night!  I soon lost the narrow trail.  My piece of candle was burning low--if it should go out!  A text came into my mind from which I preached the next Sunday: " <HI REND="italics">Walk while ye have the light</HI>
059.sgm:."  It was strange that the whole structure of the discourse shaped itself in my mind while stumbling among those rugged lava-blocks, and pelted by the storm which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:seemed every moment to rage more furiously.  I kept groping for the lost trail, shivering now with cold, and the candle getting very low in my lantern.  I was lost, and it was a bad night to be lost in.  The wind seemed to have a mocking sound as it shrieked in my ears, and as it died away in a temporary lull it sounded like a dirge.  I began to think it would have been better for me to have taken the advice of my Mormon Creek friends and waited until morning.  All the time I kept moving, though aimlessly.  Thank God, here is the trail!  I came upon it again just where it left the mountain and crossed the Jamestown road, recognizing the place by a gap in a brush fence.  I started forward at a quickened pace, following the trail among the manzanita bushes, and winding among the hills.  A tree had fallen across the trail at one point, and in going round it I lost the little thread of pathway and could not find it again.  The earth was flooded with water, and one spot looked just like another.  Holding my lantern near the ground, I scanned keenly every foot of ground as I made a circle in search of the lost trail, but soon found I had no idea of the points of the compass--in a word, I was lost again.  The storm was unabated.  It was rough work stumbling over the rocks and pushing my way through the thick manzanita bushes, bruising my limbs and scratching my face.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"Who are you? and what do you want here at this time o'night?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Let me in out of the storm, and I will tell you," I said.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Not so fast, stranger--robbers are mighty plenty and sassy round here, and you do n't come in 'til we know who you are," said the voice.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I told them who I was, where I had been, and all about it.  The door was opened cautiously, and I walked in.  A coarse, frowzy-looking woman sat in the corner by the fire-place, a rough- looking man sat in the opposite corner, while the fellow who had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"This is a pretty rough night," said one of the men, complacently; "but it's nothing to the night we had the storm on the plains, when our wagon-covers was blowed off, and the cattle stampeded, and"--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Stop!" said I, "your troubles are over, and mine are not.  I want you to give me a piece of candle for my lantern here, and tell me the way to Sonora."</P>
059.sgm:<P>The fact is, I was disgusted at their want of hospitality, and too tired to be polite.  It is vain to expect much politeness from a man who is very tired or very hungry.  Most wives find this out, but I mention it for the sake of the young and inexperienced.</P>
059.sgm:<P>After considerable delay, the frowzy woman got up, found a candle, cut off about three inches, and sulkily handed it to me.  Lighting and placing it in my lantern, I made for the door, receiving these directions as I did so:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Go back the way you came about two hundred yards, then take a left-hand trail, which will carry you to Sonora by way of Dragoon Gulch."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Plunging into the storm again, I found the trail as directed, and went forward.  The rain poured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"Where am I?" I asked, thoroughly bewildered, and not recognizing the place or the persons before me.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Dis is de Shaw's Flat Lager-beer Saloon," said the Dutchman.</P>
059.sgm:<P>So this was not Sonora: after losing the trail I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>After a sound sleep, I rose next day a little bruised and stiff, but otherwise none the worse for being lost on Table Mountain.  The gallant gray pony did not escape so well; he never did get over his lameness.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FULTON.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>HE was a singular compound--hero, hypochondriac, and saint.</P>
059.sgm:<P>He came aboard the <HI REND="italics">Antelope</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"I am glad to see you, and hope you will live holy and be useful in California," he said.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"As this is the first time we have ever met," he continued, "let us have a word of prayer, that all our intercourse may be sanctified to our mutual good."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Down he kneeled among the trunks, valises, and bandboxes in the little state-room (and we with him, though it was tight squeezing amid the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>Rising at length from our knees, we entered into conversation.  After a few inquiries and answers, he said--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"It is very difficult to maintain a spiritual frame of mind among all these people.  Let us have another word of prayer."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Down he went again on his knees, we following, and he wrestled long and earnestly in supplication, oblivious of the peculiarities of the situation.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Conversation was resumed on rising, confined exclusively to religious topics.  A few minutes had thus been spent, when he said--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"We are on our way to the Annual Conference, where we shall be engaged in looking after the interests of the Church.  Let us have another word of prayer, that we may be prepared for these duties, and that the session may be profitable to all."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Again he knelt upon his knees and prayed with great fervor.</P>
059.sgm:<P>When we rose there was a look of inquiry in the eyes of my fellow-missionary, which seemed to ask, Where is this to end?</P>
059.sgm:<P>Just then the dinner-bell rang, and we had no opportunity for farther devotions with Brother Fulton just then.</P>
059.sgm:<P>It was observed during the Conference session <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"Bishop, I am in great mental distress; you will excuse me for interrupting the business of the Conference, but I can bear it no longer."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"What's the matter, Brother Fulton?" asked that bluff, wise old prelate.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I am afraid I have sinned," was the answer, with bowed head and faltering voice.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"In what way?" asked the Bishop.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I will explain:  On my way from the mountains I became very hungry in the stage-coach.  I am afraid I thought too much of my food.  You know, Bishop, that if we fix our affections for one moment on any creature more than on God, it is sin."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Well, Brother Fulton," said the Bishop, "if at your hungriest moment the alternative had been presented whether you should give up your God or your dinner, would you have hesitated?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"No, sir," said Brother Fulton meekly, after a short pause.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Well, then, my dear brother, the case is clear, you have done no wrong," said the Bishop in his hearty, off-hand way.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>The effect was magical.  Fulton stood thoughtful a moment, and then, as he sat down, burst into tears of joy.  Poor, morbidly-sensitive soul! we may smile at such scruples, so foreign to the temper of these after-times, but they were the scruples of a soul as true and as unworldly as that of a&acute; Kempis.</P>
059.sgm:<P>He was sent to the mines, and he was a wonder to those nomadic dwellers about Vallecito, Douglass's Flat, Murphy's Camp, and Lancha Plana.  They were puzzled to determine whether he was a lunatic or a saint.  Many stories of his eccentricities were afloat, and he was regarded with a sort of mingled curiosity and awe.  It was but seldom that even the roughest fellows would utter profane language in his presence, and when they did, they received a rebuke that made them ashamed.  Before the year was out he had won every heart by the power of simple truthfulness, courage, and goodness.  The man who insulted, or in any way mistreated him, would have lost caste with those wild adventures who, with all their grievous faults, never failed to recognize sincerity and pluck.  Fulton's sincerity was unmistakable, and he feared not the face of man.  He made converts among them, too.  Many a profane lip became familiar with the language of prayer in those mining camps where the devil was so terribly regnant, and took no pains to hide his cloven foot.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>One of Fulton's eccentricities caused a tedious trial to an old hen belonging to a good sister at Vallecito.  He was a dyspeptic--too great abstemiousness the cause.  His diet was tea, crackers, and boiled eggs.  Being a rigid Sabbath-keeper, he would eat nothing cooked on Sunday.  So his eggs were boiled on Saturday, and warmed over for his Sunday meals.  About the time of one of his visits to Vallecito, the sister referred to had occasion to set a hen.  The period of incubation was singularly protracted, running far into the summer.  The eggs would not hatch.  Investigation finally disclosed the fact that by somebody's blunder the boiled eggs had been placed under the unfortunate fowl, whose perseverance failed of its due reward.  "Bless me!" said the good-natured sister, laughing, "these were Brother Fulton's eggs.  I wonder if he ate the raw ones?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>Fulton had his stated times for private devotion, and allowed nothing to stand in the way.  The hour of twelve was one of these seasons sacred to prayer.  One day he was ascending a mountain, leading his horse, and assisting a teamster by scotching the wheels of his heavy wagon when his horses stopped to get breath.  When about half way up, Fulton's large, old-fashioned silver watch told him it was twelve.  Instantly he called out--</P>
059.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"My hour for prayer has arrived, and I must stop and pray."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Wait 'til we get to the top of the mountain, won't you?" exclaimed the teamster.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"No," said Fulton, "I never allow any thing to interfere with my secret prayers."</P>
059.sgm:<P>And down he kneeled by the roadside, bridle in hand, and with closed eyes he was soon wrapt in devotion.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The teamster expressed his view of the situation in language not exactly congruous to the exercise in which his fellow-traveler was engaged.  But he waited until the prayer was ended, and then with a serene face Fulton resumed his service as scotcher, and the summit was reached in triumph.</P>
059.sgm:<P>While on the San Ramon Circuit, in Contra Costa county, he met a man with a drove of hogs in a narrow, muddy lane.  The swine took fright, and despite the frantic efforts of their driver, they turned, bolted by him, and rushed back the way whence they had come.  The swine-herd was furious with rage, and let loose upon Fulton a volley of oaths and threats.  Fulton paused, looked upon the angry fellow calmly for a few moments, and then dismounted, and kneeling by the roadside, began to pray for the man whose profanity was filling the air.  The fellow was confounded at the sight of that ghostly-looking man on his knees <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>Fulton itinerated in this way for years, fasting rigidly and praying incessantly, some thinking him a lunatic, others reverencing him as a saint.  Thinner and thinner did he grow, his pallid face becoming almost transparent.  Thinking its mild climate might benefit his health, he was sent to Southern California.  One morning, on entering his room, he was found kneeling by his bedside dead, with his Bible open before him, and a smile on his face.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>BLIGHTED.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>ALCOHOL and opium were his masters.  He alternated in their use.  Only a brain of extraordinary strength, and nerves of steel, could have stood the strain.  He had a large practice at the Sonora bar, was a popular politician, made telling stump speeches, and wrote pungent and witty editorials for the <HI REND="italics">Union Democrat</HI>
059.sgm:, conducted by that most genial and unselfish of party pack-horses, A. N. Francisco.  He was a fine scholar, and so thoroughly a gentleman in his instincts that even when drunk he was not vulgar or obscene.  Cynicism and waggery were mingled in his nature, but he was more cynic than wag.  An accidental meeting under pleasant circumstances, and agreement in opinion concerning certain current issues that were exciting the country, developed a sort of friendship between us.  He affected skepticism, and was always ready to give a thrust at the clergy.  It sometimes happened that a party of the wild <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>He was shy of all allusions to himself, and I do not know how it was that he came to open his mind to me so freely as he did one morning.  I found him alone in his office.  He was sober and sad, and in a different mood from any in which I had ever before met him.  Our conversation touched upon many topics, for he seemed disposed to talk.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"How slight a circumstance," I remarked, "will sometimes give coloring to our whole character, and affect all our after-life!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes," he answered, "bitterly do I realize the truth of your remark.  When I was in my fourteenth year an incident occurred which has influenced all my subsequent life.  I was always a favorite with my school-teachers, and I loved them with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>Here he paused a few moments, and then went on:--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Soon a new teacher took his place.  He was unlike the one we had lost.  He was a younger man, and he lacked the gentleness and dignity of his predecessor.  But I was prepared to give him my confidence and affection, for then I had learned nothing else.  I sought to gain his favor, and was diligent in study and careful of my behavior.  For several days all went on smoothly.  A rule of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"`Come here, sir!'</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I obeyed.  Grasping me tightly by the collar, he said:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"`How dare you whisper in school?'</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I told him I had not whispered.  `Hearing my name called, I only turned to'--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"`Don't dare to tell me a lie!' he thundered, lifting me from the floor as he spoke, and tripping my feet from under me, causing me to fall violently, my head striking first.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I was stunned by the fall, but soon rose to my feet, bruised and bewildered, yet burning with indignation.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"`Take your seat, sir!' said he--enforcing the command by several sharp strokes of the rod--`and be careful in future how you lie to me!'</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I walked slowly to my seat.  A demon had entered my soul.  For the first time I had learned to hate.  I hated that man from that hour, and I hate him still!  He still lives, and if I ever meet him, I will be even with him yet!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>He had unconsciously risen from his seat, while his eyes flashed, and his face was distorted with passion.  After a few moments, he continued:</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"This affair produced a complete change in my conduct and character.  I hated my teacher.  I looked upon him as an enemy, and treated him accordingly.  Losing all relish for study, from being at the head I dropped to the foot of my class.  Instead of seeking to merit a name for good behavior, my only ambition was to annoy the tyrant placed over me.  He treated me harshly, and I suffered severely.  He beat me constantly and cruelly.  Under these influences my nature hardened rapidly.  I received no sympathy except from my mother, and she did not understand my position.  I felt that <HI REND="italics">she</HI>
059.sgm: loved me, though she evidently thought I must be in the wrong.  My father laid all the blame on me, and, with a stern sense of justice, refused to interfere in my behalf.  At last I began to look upon him as the accomplice of my persecutor, and almost hated him too.  I became suspicious and misanthropic.  I loved no one but my mother, and sought the love of no other.  Thus passed several years.  My time was wasted, and my nature perverted.  I was sent to college, for which I was but poorly prepared.  Here a new life begun.  My effort to rise above the influences that had been so hurtful to me failed.  My college career soon terminated.  I could not shake off the effects of the early injustice and mismanagement of which I was the victim.  I came to California in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>He spoke truly.  The mortgage was duly foreclosed.  He died of <HI REND="italics">delirium tremens</HI>
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059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>STRANDED.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>JUST as the sun was going down, after one of the hottest days of the summer of 1855, while we were seated in the rude piazza of the parsonage in Sonora, enjoying the coolness of the evening breeze, a man in his shirt sleeves came up, and in a hurried tone inquired--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Does the preacher live here?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>Getting an affirmative answer, he said--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"There is a very sick man at the hospital who wishes to see the Southern Methodist preacher immediately."</P>
059.sgm:<P>I at once obeyed the summons.  On reaching the hospital, my conductor said--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You will find him in there," pointing to one of the rooms.</P>
059.sgm:<P>On entering, I found four patients in the room, three of whom were young men, variously affected with chronic diseases--rough-looking fellows, showing plainly in their sensual faces the insignia of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"Are you the preacher?" he asked in a feeble voice, as I approached the bedside.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes; I am the preacher.  Can I do anything for you?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I am glad you have come--I was afraid I would not get to see you.  Take a seat on that stool--the accommodations are rather poor here."</P>
059.sgm:<P>He paused to recover breath, and then went on:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I want you to pray for me.  I was once a member of the Methodist Church, in Georgia; but O sir, I have been a bad man in California--a wicked, wicked wretch!  I have a family in Georgia--a dear wife and"--</P>
059.sgm:<P>Here he broke down again.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I had hoped to see them once more, but the doctors say I must die, and I feel that I am sinking.  No tongue could tell what I have suffered, but the worst of all is my shameful denial of my Saviour.  What a fool I have been, to think that I could prosper in sin!  Here I am, stranded, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>After directing his attention to various passages of the Bible expressive of the infinite and tender love of God toward the erring, I kneeled by his cot and prayed.  His sighs and sobs gave indication of deep feeling, and when I arose from my knees the tears were running from his eyes, and his face wore a different expression.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Return unto me, and I will return unto you," he said, repeating the words which I had quoted from the word of God--"return unto me, and I will return unto you"--lingering upon the words with peculiar satisfaction.  He seemed to have caught a great truth.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I continued my visits to him for several weeks.  He gave me the history of his life, which had been one of vicissitude and adventure.  He had been a soldier in the Seminole war in Florida, and he had much to say of alligators, and Indians, and Andrew Jackson.  All the time his strength was failing, his eyes glittering more intensely.  His bodily sufferings were frightful; the only sleep he obtained was by the use of opiates.  But an extraordinary change had taken place in his mental state.  To say that he was happy would be putting it too <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"There's a great change in the old man," said the nurse one day; "he doesn't fret at all now."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"O I have been so happy all night and all day!" he said to me the last time I saw him.  "I have only refrained from shouting for fear of disturbing these poor fellows, my sick room-mates.  I have felt all day as if I could take them all in my arms, and fly with them to the skies!"  And his face was radiant.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The next morning he was found on the floor by his bedside--dead.  He had died so quietly that none knew it.  His papers were placed in my possession.  In his well-worn pocket-book, among letters from his wife in Georgia, receipts, and private papers of various kinds, I found the following lines, which he had clipped from some newspaper, and which seemed tear-blotted:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>COME HOME, PAPA!<LB>(<HI REND="italics">A little girl's thoughts about her absent father</HI>
059.sgm:.)<LB>Come home, papa! the shades of night<LB>Are gathering in the sky;<LB>The fire-fly shines with fitful light,<LB>The stars are out on high,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<LB>And twinkles bright the evening star:<LB>We have waited long--come home, papa!<LB>Come home! the birds have gone to rest<LB>In many a forest tree;<LB>Within thy quiet home, thy nest,<LB>Thy bird is waiting thee;<LB>She softly sings, to cheer mamma,<LB>The while she waits--come home, papa!<LB>Come home!  A tear is glistening bright<LB>Within my mother's eye;<LB>Why stay away so late to-night<LB>From home, mamma, and I?<LB>"Alas!" "alas!" her moanings are<LB>That thou canst not return, papa!<LB>She says the white-sailed ship hath borne<LB>Thee far upon the sea,<LB>That many a night and many a morn<LB>Will pass nor bring us thee;<LB>But bear thee from us swift and far,<LB>And thou mayst not come home, papa!<LB>I thought thou wouldst return when light<LB>Had faded on the sea:<LB>How can I fall asleep to-night<LB>Without a kiss from thee?<LB>Thy picture in my hand I hold,<LB>But O the lips are hard and cold!<LB>Come home!  I'm sad where'er I go,<LB>To find no father there:<LB>How can we live without thee so?<LB>I'll say my evening prayer,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<LB>And ask the God who made each star,<LB>To bring me home my dear papa!<LB>ANSWERED.<LB>I'll come! I'll come! my darling one,<LB>Though long from thee I've tarried.<LB>For thee within my anxious breast<LB>The fondest love I've carried<LB>Where'er I've roamed o'er land or sea.<LB>Be not dismayed, I'll come to thee.<LB>When evening shades around thee fall,<LB>And birds have gone to rest,<LB>O sing, thou sweetest bird of mine,<LB>Within thy lonely nest!<LB>Sing on! sing on! to cheer "mamma"<LB>"The while she waits" for thy "papa."<LB>O tell thy mother not to weep,<LB>But let her tears be dry,<LB>And ne'er for me to let them creep<LB>Into her cheerful eye;<LB>For though I've strayed from her afar,<LB>She soon shall welcome home "papa."<LB>Though "white-sailed ship" hath borne me far<LB>Across the restless sea--<LB>Though many nights and morns have passed<LB>Since last I dwelt with thee--<LB>Yet, lovely one, I tell thee true,<LB>But death can sever me from you.<LB>O lay that picture down, sweet child,<LB>And calmly rest in sleep,<LB>And for my absence long from thee<LB>I pray thee not to weep!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<LB>I'll come! I'll come again to thee,<LB>In "white-sailed ship" across the sea.<LB></HI>
059.sgm:<P>But no "white-sailed ship" ever bore him to the loved ones across the sea.  He sleeps on one of the red hills overlooking Sonora, awaiting the resurrection.</P>
059.sgm:<P>As these are not fancy sketches, but simple recitals of actual California life, the lines above were copied as found; the friendly reader therefore will not judge them with critical severity.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LOCKLEY.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>He was eccentric, and he was lazy--very eccentric, and very lazy.  The miners crowded his church on Sundays, and he moved around among them in a leisurely, familiar way, during the week, saying the quaintest things, eating their slap-jacks, and smoking their best cigars.  He occupied a little frame house near the church in Columbia, then the richest mining camp in the world, in whose streets ten thousand miners lounged, ate, drank, gambled, quarreled, and fought every Lord's-day.  That bachelor parsonage was unique in respect of the furniture it did not contain, and also in respect to the condition of that which it did contain.  Lockley was not a neat house-keeper.  I have said he was lazy.  He knew the fact, accepted it, and gloried in it.  On one occasion he invited four friends to supper.  They all arrived at the hour.  Lockley was stretched at full length on a lounge which would have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"Lockley, where's your supper?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"O it isn't cooked yet," he drawled out.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Parker," continued Lockley, "make a fire in that stove.  Toman, you go up town and get some crackers, and oysters, and coffee, and a steak.  Oxley, go after a bucket of water.  Porterfield, you hunt up the crockery, and set the table."</P>
059.sgm:<P>His orders were obeyed by the amused guests, who entered into the spirit of the occasion with great good humor.  Oyster cans were opened, the steak was duly sliced, seasoned, and broiled, the coffee was boiled, and in due time the supper was ready, and Lockley arose from the lounge and presided at the table with perfect enjoyment.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Two of these guests had a tragic history.  Oxley and Parker were killed in Mexico, at the massacre of the Crabb party.  Porterfield died in Stockton.  Toman, I think, lives somewhere in Indiana.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I saw one of Lockley's letters from Los Angeles, whither he had been sent by Bishop Andrew, in 1855.  It was as follows:</P>
059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LOS ANGELES, August, 1855.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dear Porterfield</HI>
059.sgm::--I have been here six months.  There are three Protestant churches in the place.  Their united congregations amount to ten persons.  My receipts from collections during six months amount to ten dollars.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:have been studying a great scientific question, namely, the location of the seat of hunger.  Is it in the stomach, or in the brain?  After consulting all the best authorities, <HI REND="italics">and no little experience</HI>
059.sgm:<P>LOCKLEY.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I had a letter from him once.  It was in reply to one from me asking him to remit the amount of a bill he owed for books.  As it was brief, I print it entire:</P>
059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MARIPOSA, April, 1858.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dear Fitz</HI>
059.sgm::--Your dunning letter has been received and--placed on file.<HSEP>Yours,<HSEP>E. B. LOCKLEY.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The first time I ever heard him preach was at San Jose, during a special meeting.  Poising himself in his peculiar way, with an expression half comic, half serious, he began:  "I have a notion, my friends, that in a gospel land every man has his own preacher--that is, for every man there is some one preacher, who, from similarity of temperament and mental constitution, is adapted to be the instrument of his salvation.  Now," he continued, "there may be some man in this audience so peculiar, so cranky, so much out of the common order, <HI REND="italics">that I am his man</HI>
059.sgm:<P>Lazy as he was out of the pulpit, in it he was all energy and fire.  He had read largely, had a good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:memory, and put the quaintest conceits into the quaintest setting of fitting words.  His favorite text was,  "There remaineth a rest to the people of God."  That was his idea of heaven--rest to "sit down" with Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob, in the kingdom of God.  On this theme he was indeed eloquent.  The rapturous songs, the waving palms, the sounding harps of the New Jerusalem, were not to his taste--what he wanted, and looked for, was rest, and all the images by which he described the felicity of the redeemed were drawn from that one thought.  His idea of hell was antithetic to this.  The terrible thought with him was, that there was no rest there.  I heard him bring out this idea with awful power one Sunday morning at Linden, in San Joaquin county.  "In this world," said Lockley, "there is respite from every grief, every burden, every pain in the body.  The mourner weeps herself to sleep.  The agony of pain sinks exhausted into slumber.  Sleep, sweet sleep, brings surcease to all human griefs and pains in this life.  <HI REND="italics">But there will be no sleep in hell</HI>
059.sgm:!  The accusing conscience will hiss its reproaches into the ear of the lost, the memory will reproduce the crimes and follies by which the soul was wrecked forever, the fires of retribution will burn on unintermittingly.  One hour of sleep in a thousand years would be some mitigation--but the worm dieth not, the fire <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>He was original in the pulpit, as everywhere else.  At one time the preachers of the Pacific Conference seemed to have a sort of epidemic of preaching on a certain topic-- <HI REND="italics">The Choice of Moses</HI>
059.sgm:.  The elders preached it at the quarterly meetings, and it was carried around from circuit to circuit, and from station to station.  There was not much variety in these sermons.  They all bore a generic likeness to each other, indicating a common paternity, at least, for the outlines.  The matter had become a subject of pleasant banter among the brethren.  There was consequently some surprise, when at the session of the Annual Conference, Lockley announced for his text:  "Moses chose rather to suffer affliction with the people of God, than to enjoy the pleasures of sin for a season."  It was the old text, but it was a new sermon.  The choice of Moses was, in his hands, a topic fresh and entertaining, as he threw upon it the flashes of his wit, and evoked from it suggestions that never would have occurred to another mind.  "Mind you," he said at one point, "Moses chose to suffer affliction <HI REND="italics">with the people of God</HI>
059.sgm:.  I tell you, my brethren, the people of God are sometimes very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>One warm day in 1858 he started out with me to make a canvass of the city of Stockton for the Church-paper.  We kept in pretty brisk motion for an hour or two, Lockley giving an occasional sign of dissatisfaction at the unwonted activity into which he had been beguiled.  Passing down Weber Avenue, on the shady side of a corner store he saw an empty chair, and with a sigh of relief he sank into it.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Come on, Lockley," said I; "we are not half done our work."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I sha'n't do it," he drawled.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Why not?"  I asked.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"The Scripture is against it," he answered with great seriousness of tone.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"How is that?"  I asked with curiosity.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"The Scripture says, `Do thyself no harm,'" said he, "and it does me harm to walk as fast as you do.  I sha'n't budge."</P>
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059.sgm:<P>Nor did he.  I spent two or three hours in different parts of the city, and on my return found him sitting in exactly the same attitude in which I had left him, a picture of perfect contentment.  Literally, he hadn't budged.</P>
059.sgm:<P>While on the Santa Clara Circuit he drove a remarkable little sorrel mare named by him Ginsy.  Ginsy was very small, very angular, with long fetlocks and mane a shade lighter than her other parts, a short tail that had a comic sort of twist to one side, and a lame eye.  The buggy was in keeping with Ginsy.  It was battered and splintered, some of the spokes were new and some were old, the dash-board was a wreck, the wheels seesawed in a curious way as it moved.  And the harness!--it was too much for my powers.  It was a conglomerate harness, composed of leather, hay rope, fragments of suspenders, whip-cord, and rawhide.  The vehicle announced its approach by an extraordinary creaking of all its unoiled axles, a sort of calliopean quartette that regaled the ears of the fat and happy genius who held the reins.  Lockley, Ginsy, and that buggy, made a picture worth looking at.</P>
059.sgm:<P>While Lockley was on this circuit the Annual Conference was held at San Jose.  As Bishop Kavanaugh was to preach on Sunday morning, it was expected that an overwhelming congregation would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Brother Kelsay, how shall we bring these solemn services to a close</HI>
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059.sgm:<P>"Let us pray," said Kelsay.<LB>They kneeled, and Kelsay led in prayer, the old man keeping his place and sitting position.  The benediction was then formally pronounced, and that service ended.</P>
059.sgm:<P>His death was tragic and pitiful.  A boy, standing in the sunken channel of a dry creek, shot at a vicious dog on the bank above.  The bullet, after striking and killing the dog, struck Lockley in the chest as he was approaching the spot.  He staggered backward to a fence close at hand, fell on his knees, and died praying.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FATHER COX.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>FATHER COX was a physical and intellectual phenomenon.  He was of immense girth, weighing more than three hundred pounds.  His face was ruddy and almost as smooth as that of a child, his hair snow-white and fine as floss-silk, his eyes a deep blue, his features small.  His great size, and the contrast between the infantile freshness of his skin and white hair, made him a notable man in the largest crowd.</P>
059.sgm:<P>He was converted, and joined the Methodist Church, after he had passed his fiftieth year.  He had been, as he himself phrased it, the keeper of a "doggery," and was no doubt a rough customer.  Reaching California by way of Texas, he at once began to preach.  His style took with the Californians; great crowds flocked to hear him, and marvelous effects were produced.  He was a fine judge of human nature, and knew the direct way to the popular heart.  Under his preaching men wept, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>Father Cox was in his glory at a camp-meeting.  To his gift of exhortation was added that of song.  He had a voice like a flute in its softness and purity of tone, and his solos before and after preaching melted and broke the hard heart of many a wild and reckless Californian.</P>
059.sgm:<P>His sagacity and knowledge of human nature were exhibited at one of his camp-meetings held at Gilroy, in Santa Clara county.  There was a great crowd and a great religious excitement, Father Cox riding its topmost wave, the general of the army of Israel.  Seated in the preachers' stand, he was leading in one of the spirited lyrics suited to the occasion, when a young man approached him and said--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Father Cox, there's a friend of mine out here who wants you to come and pray for him."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Where is he?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Just out there on the edge of the crowd," answered the young fellow.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Father Cox followed him to the outskirts of the congregation, where he found a group of rough-looking fellows standing around, with their leggings and huge Spanish spurs, in the center of which a man was seen kneeling, with his face buried between his hands.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"There he is," said the guide.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Is he a friend of yours, gentlemen?" asked Father Cox, turning to the expectant group.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes," answered one of them.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"And you want me to pray for him, do you?" he cotinued.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"We do," was the answer.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"All right--all of you kneel down, and I'll pray for him."</P>
059.sgm:<P>They looked at one another in confusion, and then one by one they sheepishly kneeled until all were down.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Father Cox then kneeled down by the "mourner," and prayed as follows:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"O Lord, thou knowest all things.  Thou knowest whether this man is a sincere penitent or not.  If he is sincerely sorry for his sins, and is bowing before Thee with a broken heart and a contrite spirit, have mercy upon him, hear his prayer, pardon his transgressions, give him Thy peace, and make him Thy child.  But, O Lord, if he is not in earnest, if he is here as an emissary of Satan, to make mockery of sacred things, and to hinder Thy work, kill him--kill him, Lord"--</P>
059.sgm:<P>At this point the "mourner" became frightened, and began to crawl, Father Cox followin him on his knees, and continuing his prayer.  The terrorstricken sinner could stand it no longer, but sprang <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>The sequel of this incident should be given.  The mock penitent was taken into the Church by Father Cox soon after.  He left the camp-ground in a state of great alarm on account of his sacrilegious frolic.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"When the old man put his hand on me as I kneeled there in wicked sport, and prayed as he did, it seemed to me that I felt hot flashes from hell rise in my face," said he; "right there I became a true pentent."</P>
059.sgm:<P>The man thus strangely converted became a faithful soldier of the cross.</P>
059.sgm:<P>At a camp-meeting near the town of Sonoma; in 1858, Father Cox, who was preacher in charge of that circuit, rose to exhort after the venerable Judge Shattuck had preached one of his strong, earnest sermons.  The meeting had been going on several days, and the Sonoma sinners had hitherto resisted all appeals and persuasions.  The crowd was great, and every eye was fixed upon the old man as he began his exhortation.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Boys," he began, in a familiar, kindly way, "boys, you are treating me badly.  I have been with you all the year, and you have always had a kind word and a generous hand for the old man.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:I love you, and I love your immortal souls.  I have entreated you to turn away from your sins, to repent, and come to Christ and be saved.  I have preached to you, I have prayed for you, I have wept over you.  You harden your hearts, and stiffen your necks, and will not yield.  You <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
059.sgm: be lost!  You <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
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059.sgm:<P>It was overwhelming.  The pathos and power of the speaker were indescribable.  There was a "break-down" all over the vast congregation, and a rush of penitents to the altar, as one of the stiring camp-meeting choruses pealed forth from the full hearts of the faithful.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Father Cox's ready wit was equal to any occasion.  At a camp-meeting in the Bodega Hills, in "opening the doors of the Church," he said:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Many souls have been converted, and now I want them all to join the Church.  When I was a boy, I learned that it was best to string my fish as I caught them, lest they should flutter back into the water.  I want to string my fish--that is, take all the young converts into the Church, and put them to work for Christ, lest they go back into the world"--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You can't catch <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"I am not fishing for <HI REND="italics">gar</HI>
059.sgm:<P>The gar-fish is the abomination of all true fish-ermen--hard to catch, coarse-flavored, bony, and nearly worthless when caught.  The vulgar fellow became the butt of the camp-ground, and soon mounted his mustang, and galloped off, amid the derision even of his own sort.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>Father Cox had a naturally hot temper, which sometimes flamed forth in a way that was startling.  It would have been a bold man who would have tested his physical prowess in a combat.  Beside him an ordinary-sized person looked like a pigmy.  Near San Juan, in Monterey county, he had occasion to cross a swollen stream by means of the water-fence above the ford.  The fence was flimsy, and Father Cox was heavy.  The undertaking was not an easy one at best, and Father Cox's difficulty and annoyance were enhanced by the ungenerous and violent abuse and curses of an infidel blacksmith on the opposite side of the stream, who had worked himself into a rage because the immense weight of the old man had broken a rail or two of the fence.  The situation was too critical for reply, as the mammoth preacher Cox "cooned" his way cautiously and painfully across the rickety bridge, at the imminent risk every moment of tumbling headlong into the roaring torrent below.  Meanwhile the wicked and angry blacksmith kept up a volley of oaths and insulting epithest.  The old Adam was waking up in the old preacher.  By the time he had reached the shore he was thoroughly mad, and rushing forward, he grasped his persecutor and shook him until his breath was nearly shaken out of him, saying--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"O you foul-mouthed villain!  If it were not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>The blacksmith, a stalwart fellow, was astonished; and when Father Cox let him go, he had a new view of the Church militant.  This scene was witnessed by a number of bystanders, who did not fail to report it, and it made the old preacher a hero with the rough fellows of San Juan, who thenceforward flocked to hear his preaching as they did to hear nobody else.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The image of Father Cox that is most vivid to my mind as I close this unpretentious sketch, is that which he presented as he stood in the pulpit at Stockton one night, during the Conference session, and sang, "I am going home to die no more," his ruddy face aglow, his blue eyes swimming in tears, his white hair glistening in the lamp-light.  He sleeps on the Bodega Hills, amid the oaks and madronas, whose branches wave in the breezes of the blue Pacific.  He has gone home to die no more.</P>
059.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>AN INTERVIEW.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>AS I was coming out of the San Francisco post-office one morning, in the year 185--, a tall, dark-skinned man placed himself in front of me, and fixing his intensely glittering eyes upon me, said in an excited tone--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Sir, can you give me a half hour of your time this morning?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes," I replied, "if I can be of any service to you by so doing."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Not here, but in your office, privately," he continued.  "I must speak to somebody, and having heard you preach in the church on Pine street, I felt that I could approach you.  I am in great trouble and danger, and must speak to some one!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>His manner was excited, his hand trembled, and his eye had an insane gleam as he spoke.  We walked on in silence until we reached my office on Montgomery street.  After entering, I laid down my letters and papers, and was about to offer him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"This conversation is to be private, and I do not intend to be interrupted."</P>
059.sgm:<P>As he turned toward me I saw that he had a pistol in his hand, which he laid on a desk, and then sat down.  I waited for him to speak, eyeing him and the pistol closely, and feeling a little uncomfortable, locked in thus with an armed madman of almost giant-like size and strength.  The pistol had a sinister look that I had never before recognized in that popular weapon.  It seemed to grow bigger and bigger.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Have you ever been haunted by the idea of suicide?" he asked abruptly, his eyes glaring upon me as he spoke.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"No, not particularly," I answered; "but why do you ask?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Because the idea is haunting <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"What has put the idea of suicide into your mind?" I inquired.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"My life's a failure, sir; and there is nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>I was making some reply, when he broke in--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Hear my history, and then tell me if death is not the only thing left for me," laying his hand upon the pistol as he spoke.</P>
059.sgm:<P>When he told me his name I recognized it as that of a man of genius, whose contributions to a certain popular periodical had given him a wide fame in the world of letters.  He was the son of a venerable New England Bishop, and a graduate of Harvard University. I will give his story in his own words, as nearly as I can:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"In 1850 I started to California with honorable purpose and high ambition.  My father being a clergyman, and poor, and greatly advanced in years, I felt that it was my duty to make provision for him and for the family circle to which I belonged, and of which I was the idol.  Animated by this purpose, I was full of hope and energy.  On the ship that took me to California I made the acquaintance and fell into the snares of a beautiful but unprincipled woman, for whom I toiled and sacrificed every thing for eight years of weakness and folly, never remitting a dollar to those I had intended to provide for at home, carrying all the while an uneasy conscience and despising myself.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"I had learned to gamble, of course, but now I resolved to quit it.  For two years I kept this resolution, and had in the meantime saved over six thousand dollars.  Do you believe that the devil tempts men?  I tell you, sir, it is true!  I began to fell a strange desire to visit some of my old haunts.  This feeling became intense, overmastering.  My judgment and conscience protested, but I felt like one under a spell.  I yielded, and found my way <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"The very next day I was surprised by the offer of a lucrative subordinate position in a federal office in San Francisco.  This was not the first coincidence of the sort in my life, where an unexpected influence had been brought to bear upon me, giving my plans and prospects a new direction.  Has God any thing to do with these things? or is it accident?  I took the place which was offered to me, and went to work with renewed hope and energy.  I made a vow against gambling, and determined to recover all I had thrown away.  I saved every dollar possible, pinching myself in my living, and supplementing my liberal salary by literary labors.  My savings had again run high up in the thousands, and my gains were steady.  The Frazer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:River mining excitement broke out.  An old friend of mine came to me and asked the loan of a hundred dollars to help him off to the new mines.  I told him he should have the money, and that I would have it ready for him that afternoon.  After he had left, the thought occurred to me that one hundred dollars was a very poor outfit for such an enterprise, and that he ought to have more.  Then the thought was suggested--yes, sir, it was <HI REND="italics">suggested</HI>
059.sgm:<P>He paused a moment in his rapid recital, pacing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"Now, sir, candidly, don't you think that the best thing I can do is to blow out my brains?" said he, cocking the pistol as he spoke.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The thought occurred to me that it was no uncommon thing for the suicidal to give way to the homicidal mania.  The man was evidently half mad, and ready for a tragedy.  That pistol seemed almost instinct with conscious evil intention.  If a suicide or a homicide was to end the scene, I preferred the former.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"How old are you?" I asked, aiming to create a diversion.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I am forty-five," he answered, apparently brought to a little more <HI REND="italics">recollection</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"I should think," I continued, having arrested his attention, "that whatever may have been your follies, and however dark the future you have to face, you have too much manhood to sneak out of life by the back-door of suicide."</P>
059.sgm:<P>The shot struck.  An instantaneous change passed over his countenance.  Suicide appeared to him in a new light--as a cowardly, not an heroic act.  He had been fascinated with the notion of having the curtain fall upon his career amid the blaze of blue lights, and the glamour of romance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"You should be ashamed of yourself, sir," I continued.  "You are only forty-five years old; you are in perfect health, with almost a giant's strength, a classical education, extensive business experience, and with a knowledge of the world gained by your very mistakes that should be a guarantee against the possibility of their repetition.  A brave man should never give up the battle--the bravest men never give up."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Give me the pistol," he said quietly; "you need not be afraid to trust me with it.  The devil has left me.  I will not act the part of a coward.  You will hear from me again.  Permit me to thank you.  Good-morning."</P>
059.sgm:<P>I did hear from him again.  The devil seemed indeed to have left him.  He went to British Columbia, where he prospered in business and got rich, became a pillar in the Church of which his father was one of the great lights, and committed not suicide, but matrimony, marrying a sweet and cultured English girl, who thinks her tall Yankee husband the handsomest and noblest of men.</P>
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059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>STEWART.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>I FIRST met him in New Orleans, in February, 1855.  He was small, sandy-haired and whiskered, blue-eyed, bushy-headed, with an impediment in his speech, rapid in movement, and shy in manner.  We were on our way to California, and were fellow-missionaries.  At the Advocate office, on Magazine street, he was discussed in my presence.  "He won't do for California," said one who has since filled a large space in the public eye; "he won't do for that fast country--he is too timid and too slow."  Never did a keen observer make a greater mistake in judging a man.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Stewart stood with us on the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Daniel Webster</HI>
059.sgm: that afternoon as we swept down the mighty Mississippi, taking a last, lingering look at the shores we were leaving, perhaps forever, and gazing upon the glories of the sunset on the Gulf.  I remember well the feelings of mingled sadness, and curiosity, and youthful hopefulness, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"Do you believe in presentiments?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes, I do," was my half-jocular reply.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"So do I," he said with great solemnity; "and I have had a presentiment ever since we left New Orleans that we should never reach California, that we should be caught in a storm, and the ship and all on board lost."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">I</HI>
059.sgm: have had a presentiment," I answered, "that we <HI REND="italics">shall</HI>
059.sgm: arrive safe and sound in San Francisco, and that we <HI REND="italics">shall</HI>
059.sgm:<P>He looked at me sadly, and sighed as he looked out upon the boiling sea that seemed like molten copper under the midday blaze of the tropical sun, and no more was said about presentiments.</P>
059.sgm:<P>He was with us at Greytown, where we went <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:ashore and got our first taste of tropical scenery, and where we declined a polite invitation from a native to dine on stewed monkey and boiled iguana.  (The iguana is a species of big lizard, highly prized as a delicacy by the Nicaraguans.)  He enjoyed with us the sights and adventures of the journey across the isthmus.  This was a new world to him and us, and not even the horrible profanity and vulgarity of the ninety "roughs" who came in the steerage from New York could destroy the charm and glory of the tropics.  Among those ninety drinking, swearing, gambling fellows, there were ninety revolvers, and as we ascended the beautiful San Juan River, flowing between gigantic avenues of lofty teak and other trees, and past the verdant grass-islands that waved with the breeze, and swayed with the motion of the limpid waters, the volleys of oaths and fire-arms were alike incessant.  Huge, lazy, rusty-looking alligators lined the banks of the river by hundreds, and furnished targets for these free-and-easy Americans, who had left one part of their country for its good, to seek a field congenial to their tastes and adapted to their talents.  The alligators took it all very easy in most cases, rolling leisurely into the water as the bullets rattled harmlessly against their scaly sides.  One lucky shot hit a great monster in the eye, and he bounded several feet into the air, and lashed the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:water into foam with his struggles, as the steamer swept out of sight.  The sport was now and then enlivened by the appearance of a few monkeys, at whom (or which) the revolvered Americans would blaze away as they (the monkeys) clambered in fright to the highest branches of the trees.  Whisky, profanity, and gunpowder--three things dear to the devil, and that go well together--ruled the day, and gave proof that North American civilization had found its way to those solitudes of nature.  Birds of gayest plumage fluttered in the air, and on either hand the forest blazed in all the vividness of the tropical flora.  Now and then we would meet a bungo, a long, narrow river-boat, usually propelled by oars worked by eight tawny fellows whose costume was--a panama hat and a cigar!  Despite their primitive style of dress, their manners contrasted favorably with the fellow-passengers of whom I have spoken.  But I must hurry on, nor suffer this sketch to be diverted from its proper course.  How we had to stop at night on the river and lie on the open deck, while the woods echoed with the revelry of the "roughs"--how we were detained at Fort Castilio, and how I fared sumptuously, being taken for a "Padre"--how I didn't throw the contemptible little whiffet who commanded the lake steamer overboard for his unbearable insolence--how we landed in the surf <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>Stewart was sent to the mines to preach.  This suited him.  Some men shrink from hardships; he seemed to dread only an easy place.  Walking his mountain circuit, sleeping in the rude miners' cabins, and sharing their rough fare, he was looked upon as a strange sort of man, who loved toil and forgot self.  Such a man he was.  His greatest joy was the thought that he could do a work for his Master where others could not or would not go.  It was with this feeling that he took the work of agent for the Church-paper and the college, and wandered over California and Oregon doing what was intensely repugnant to his natural feelings.  He once told me that he had been such a sinner in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:his youth that he felt it was right that he should bear the heaviest cross.  The idea of penance unconsciously entered into his view of Christian duty, and when he was "roughing it" in the mountains in midwinter, his letters were most cheerful in tone.  In the city he was restive, and the more comfortable were his quarters the more eager was he to get away.  He had fits of fearful mental depression at times, when he would pass whole nights rapidly pacing his room, with sighs, and groans, and tears.  His temper was quick and hot.  At a camp-meeting in Sacramento county, he astonished beyond measure a disorderly fellow by giving him a sudden and severe caning.  After it was over, Stewart's shame and remorse were great.  Everybody else, however, applauded the deed.  He had seen service as a soldier in the Mexican war, and was noted for his daring, but now that he belonged to a non-combatant order, he was mortified that for the moment his martial instincts had prevailed.  His moral courage was equal to any test.  No man dealt more plainly and sternly with the prevalent vices of California, nor dealt more faithfully with a friend.  Many a gambler and debauchee winced under his reproofs, and many a Methodist preacher and layman had his eyes opened by his rebukes.  But he was tender as well as faithful, and he rarely gave offense.  He loved, and was loved by, little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>THE PARABLE OF THE FISHERMEN.<LB>A certain great king ordered two companies of fishermen to go out and fish in a large stream that flowed through his dominions, and in the evening bring in the fruits of their day's toil, to supply the tables of the Royal Palace.  The companies went out early in the morning, and began to fish.  Soon, however, Company A claimed the whole stream, and tried to drive away Company B.  Every effort, fair and unfair, was put forth to this end.  Whenever, especially, Company B succeeded in taking any fish, then a cruel and relentless war was waged against them; a part <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:of Company A was at once sent to muddy the water, to break their nets, and to make such dreadful noises as to frighten away the fish.  Under these disadvantages, if Company B were able to take any fish, a great effort was made to rob their basket, and put them in the basket of Company A.  If Company A could not get them out of the basket of Company B, the next effort was to so <HI REND="italics">damage</HI>
059.sgm:<P>Now all this was done when there was plenty of room for both companies, and more fish than both of them could possibly take.  Indeed, multitudes of fish were frightened away by the noise, and swam out into shallows, and bogs, and quagmires.  Such quantities thus perished that the land stank because of them, and a dreadful pestilence followed.  Then the king was wroth.  But who was to blame?</P>
059.sgm:<P>When evening was now come, both companies had caught a few little fishes, but a part of these few were seriously damaged.  They returned to the palace with misgivings, and presented their almost empty baskets.<HSEP>J. C. S.</P>
059.sgm:<P>YANKEE JIMS, July 11, 1858.</P>
059.sgm:<P>(Stewart claimed that he belonged to "Company B"--as all do, as does everybody else.)</P>
059.sgm:<P>When the war broke out in 1861, Stewart was preaching in Los Angeles county.  The roar of the great struggle reached him, and he became restless.  He felt that he ought to share the dangers and sufferings of the South.  In reply to a letter from him asking my advice, I advised him not to go.  But in a few days I got a note from him, saying that he had prayed over the matter, and felt it his duty to go--he was needed in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>Shortly after crossing the Mexican border, he fell in with a man who gave his name as McManus, who told him he also was bound to Texas, and offered his company.  Stewart consented, and they rode on together in what proved to be the path of fate to both.  On the third day that they had journeyed in company, they stopped in a lonely place under the shade of some trees near a spring of water to rest and eat.  As usual, Stewart read a chapter or two in his pocket-Bible, and then took out his diary and began to write.  McManus now saw the opportunity he was seeking.  Seizing Stewart's gun, he placed the muzzle against his breast, and fired.  He staggered back and fell, the life-blood gushing from his heart, and with a few gasps and moans he was dead.  The last words he had just traced in his diary were these: "Lord Jesus, guide and keep me this day."  Providence has presented to my mind no greater or sadder mystery than such a death for such a man.</P>
059.sgm:<P>McManus rode back to the little town of Rosario, scarcely caring to conceal his awful crime <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE ETHICS OF GRIZZLY HUNTING.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>ON the Petaluma boat I met him.  He was on his way to Washington City, for the purpose of presenting to the President of the United States a curious chair made entirely of buck-horns, a real marvel of ingenuity, of which he was quite vain.  Dressed in buckskin, with fringed leggings and sleeves, belted and bristling with hunters' arms, strongly built and grizzly-bearded, he was a striking figure as he sat the center of a crowd of admirers.  His countenance was expressive of a mixture of brutality, cunning, and good humor.  He was a thorough animal; wild frontier life had not sublimated this old sinner in the way pictured by writers who romance about such things at a distance.  Contact with nature and Indians does not seem to exalt the white man, except in fiction.  It tends rather to draw him back toward barbarism.  The renegade white only differs from the red savage in being a shade more devilish.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"This is Seth Kinman, the great Indian-fighter and bear-hunter," said an officious passenger.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Thus introduced, I shook hands with him.  He seemed inclined to talk, and was kind enough to say he had heard of me, and voted for me.  Making due acknowledgment of the honor done me, I seated myself near enough to hear, but not so near as to catch the fumes of the alcoholic stimulants of which he was in the habit of indulging freely.  His talk was of himself, in connection with Indians and bears.  He seemed to look upon them in the same light--as natural enemies, to be circumvented or destroyed as opportunity permitted.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You can't trust an Injun," he said; "I know 'em.  If they git the upper-hand of you, they'll cinch you, sure.  The only way to git along with 'em is to make 'em afeard of you.  They'd put a arrer through me long ago if I had n't made 'em believe I was a <HI REND="italics">conjurer</HI>
059.sgm:.  It happened this way: I had a contract for furnishin' venison for the troops in Humboldt, and took along a lot of Injuns for the hunt.  We had mighty good luck, and started back to Eureka loaded down with the finest sort of deer-meat.  I saw the Injuns laggin' behind, and whisperin' to one another, and mistrusted things was n't exactly right.  So I keeps my eye on 'em, and had old Cottonblossom here [caressing a long, rusty-looking rifle] ready in case any thing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>He winked knowingly and chuckled, and then went on:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I stopped and let the Injuns come up, and then got to talkin' with 'em about huntin' and shootin'. I told 'em I was a conjurer, and couldn't be killed by a bullet or arrer, and to prove it I took off my buckskin shirt and set it up twenty steps off, and told 'em the man who could put a arrer through it might have it.  They were more than a hour shootin' at that shirt--the same I've got on now--but they couldn't <HI REND="italics">faze</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"How was that?" asked an open-mouthed young fellow, blazing with cheap jewelry.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Why, you see, young man, this shirt is well tanned and tough, and I just stood it up on the edges, so that when a arrer struck it, it would natarally give way.  If I had only had it on, the arrers would have gone clean through it, and me too.  Injuns are mighty smart in some things, but they all believe in devils, conjurin', and such like.  I played 'em fine on this idee, and they were afeard to touch me, though they were ready enough if they had dared.  While I was out choppin' wood one day, I see a smoke risin', and thinkin' somethin' must be wrong, I got back as soon as I could, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:sure enough my house was burnin'.  I know'd it was Injuns, and circlin' round I found the track of a big Injun; it was plain enough to see where he had crossed the creek comin' and goin'.  I got <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
059.sgm:<P>Whether or not this incident was apocryphal I could not decide, but it was evident enough that he intensely relished the notion of "skelping" an Indian.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I want you to come up to Humboldt and see me kill a grizzly," he continued, addressing himself to me.  "An' let me tell you now, if ever you shoot a grizzly, hit him about the ear.  If you hit him right, you will kill him; if you don't kill him, you spile his mind.  I have seen a grizzly, after he had been hit about the ear, go round an' round like a top.  No danger in a bar after you have hit him in the ear--it's his tender place.  But a bar's mighty dangerous if you hit him anywhere else, an' don't kill him.  Me an' a Injun was huntin' in a chaparral, and cum across a big grizzly.  We both blazed away at him at close range.  I saw he was hit, for he whirled half roun', and partly keeled over; but he got up and started for us, mad as fury.  We had no time to load, and there was nothin' left but to run for it.  It was nip and tuck between us.  I'm a good runner, and the Injun wasn't slow.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>He paused, and looked around complacently.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Did the bear kill the Indian?" asked the young man with abundant jewelry.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"No; he <HI REND="italics">chawed</HI>
059.sgm:<P>At this point the thought came into my mind that if this incident must be taken as a true presentation of the ethics of bear-hunting as practiced by Mr. Kinman, <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"Was you ever in Napa City?" he inquired of me.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I answered in the affirmative.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Did you see the big stuffed grizzly in the drugstore?  You have, eh?  Well, I killed that bar, the biggest ever shot in Californy.  I was out one day lookin' for a deer about sundown, and heerd <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:the dogs a-barkin' as they was comin' down Eel River.  In a little while here come the bar, an' a whopper he was!  I raised old Cottonblossom, and let him have it as he passed me.  I saw I had hit him, for he seemed to drag his <HI REND="italics">lines</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"What do you mean by aggravating the bear?" asked a bystander.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I would just take big rocks and go up close to him, and hit him between the eyes.  You ought to have heerd him <HI REND="italics">yowl!</HI>
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059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>At this point in the narration Kinman's sinister blue eyes gleamed with brute ferocity.  My aversion to making him my hunting companion increased.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"After I had my fun with him, I took old Cottonblossom and planteda bullet under his shoulder, and he tumbled over dead.  It took four of us to pull him out of that hole, and he weighed thirteen hundred pounds."</P>
059.sgm:<P>I had enough of this, and left the group, reflecting on the peculiar ethics of bear-hunting.  The last glimpse I had of this child of nature, he was chuckling over a grossly obscene picture which he was exhibiting to some congenial spirits.  His invitation to join him in a bear-hunt has not yet been accepted.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A MENDOCINO MURDER.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>AMONG my occasional hearers when I preached on Weber Avenue, in Stockton, was a handsome, sunny-faced young man who, I was informed, was studying for the ministry of the Presbyterian Church.  His manners were easy and graceful, his voice pleasant, his smile winning, and his whole appearance prepossessing to an unusual degree.  He was one of the sort of men that everybody likes at first sight.  I lost trace of him when I left the place, but retained a decidedly pleasant remembrance of him, and a hopeful interest in his welfare and usefulness.  My surprise may be imagined when, a few years afterward, I found him in jail charged with complicity in one of the most horrible murders ever perpetrated in any country.</P>
059.sgm:<P>It was during my pastorate in Santa Rosa, in 187--, that I was told that Geiger, a prisoner confined in the county jail, awaiting trial for murder, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"I little thought when I saw you last that we would meet in such a place as this," he said, with emotion.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"How comes it that you are here?  Surely you cannot be the murderer of a woman?" I asked, perhaps a little abruptly.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"It is a curious case, and a long story," he said; "it will all come out on the trial."</P>
059.sgm:<P>I looked at him with an interrogation point in my eyes.  Could that pale, meditative, scholarly-looking young man be capable of taking part in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>Briefly given, here is the story of the murder as gathered from the evidence on the trial, and recollected after the lapse of several years:</P>
059.sgm:<P>Mrs. Strong was a middle-aged woman, with the violent temper and hardened nature so often met with in women who have been subjected to the influences of such a life as she had led--among rough men, and in a rough country where might too often makes right.  Geiger and Alexander lived not far from the Strongs, in the wildest region of Mendocino county.  A quarrel rose between these two men on one side, and Mrs. Strong on the other, concerning land, the particulars of which have passed my memory.  It seems that the right of the case lay rather with the men, and that Mrs. Strong, with a woman's peculiar talent for provocation, rather presumed on her sex in ignoring their claims, at the same time forfeiting all right to consideration on that score by violent language and unwomanly taunts whenever she met them.  According to the most charitable theory (and to me it seems the most reasonable), Geiger and Alexander, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>Of course Mrs. Strong was missed, and search for her began, in which her two murderers were forced to join.  What a terrible time that was for the two men--those rides through the woods and can&tilde;ons, a hundred times passing the dreadful spot, with its awful secret!  Surely worse punishment on earth for their terrible crime could not be conceived.  Those two instruments of human torture which the Inquisition has never surpassed, Remorse and Fear, were both gnawing at the hearts of these wretched men during all of that long and futile search.  But it was given up at last, and they breathed easier.</P>
059.sgm:<P>A few weeks after, an Indian on his pony, riding through the woods, felt thirsty, and turned down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:the can&tilde;on to a spot where the trees stood thick, and the rocks jutted out over the water like greedy monsters looking at their helpless prey beneath.  He stooped to quench his thirst in the primitive fashion, but before his lips had touched the water his roving eye caught sight of a swaying something a little way up the stream that made even that stolid red man shrink from drinking that sparkling fluid, for it had flowed over the body of a dead woman.  Mrs. Strong was found.  The force of the stream had washed away the weighting-stones from the lower limbs, and the stream having fallen several feet since the heavy rains of the past weeks, the feet of the corpse were visible above the water.  The stone was still attached to the neck, thus keeping all but those ghastly feet under the water.  The long-hidden murder was out at last, and the quiet Indian riding away on his tired pony carried with him the fate of Geiger and Alexander.  When the news was told, it was remembered how unwilling they had been to search near that spot, and how uneasy and excited they had seemed whenever it was approached.  Indeed, they had been objects of suspicion to many, and the discovery of the body was followed immediately by their arrest.  The trial resulted in the acquittal of Alexander, the justice of which was questioned by many, and a sentence of life-long imprisonment for Geiger.  Before his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>BEN.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>BEN was a black man.  His African blood was unmixed.  His black skin was true ebony, his lips were as thick as the thickest, his nose was as flat as the flattest, his head as woolly as the woolliest.  His immense lips were red, and their redness was not a mark of beauty, only giving a grotesque effect to a physiognomy no part of which presented the least element of the &aelig;sthetic.  He had neither feet nor legs, but was quite a lively pedestrian, shuffling his way on his stumps, which were protected by thick leather coverings.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Ben, when I first knew him, kept a boot-black stand near the post-office in San Francisco.  He also kept postage-stamps on sale.  He was talkative, and all his talk was about religion.  His patrons listened with wonder or amusement.  A boot-black that talked religion in the very vortex of the seething sea of San Francisco mammonism, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>He slept at night in the little cage of a place in which he polished boots and shoes by day.  Many a time when I have passed the spot at early dawn, on my way to take the first boat for Sacramento, I have heard his voice singing a hymn inside.  A lark's matin song could not be freer or more joyful.  It seemed to be the literal bubbling over of a soul full of love and joy.  The melody of Ben's morning song has followed me many and many a mile, by steam-boat and by rail.  It was the melody of a soul that had learned the sublime secret which the millionaires of the metropolis might well give their millions to buy.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Ben had been a slave in Missouri in the old days <HI REND="italics">ante bellum</HI>
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059.sgm:<P>"How came you to be so crippled, Ben?" I asked him one day as he was lingering on the final touches on my second boot, being in one of his happiest and most voluble moods.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"My feet and legs got froze in Mizzoory, sir, and dey had to be cut off."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"That was a hard trial for you, wasn't it?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"No, sir, it didn't hurt me as much as I 'spected it would, an' I know'd it was all for de bes', else 't wouldn't have happened ter me.  De loss o' dem legs don't keep me from gittin' about, an' my health's as good as anybody's.  De Lord treats me kin', and mos' everybody has a kind word for Ben.  Bless God, he makes me happy widout legs!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>The plantation <HI REND="italics">patois</HI>
059.sgm:<P>Ben had a great joy when his people bought and moved into their house of worship.  He gave a hundred dollars, which he had laid by for that object a dime at a time.  It made him happier to give that money than to have been remembered in Vanderbilt's will.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I wanted ter give a hundred dollars to help buy de house, an' I know de Lord wanted me to do it, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>Ben's big, dull, white eyes were not capable of much expression, but his broad, black face beamed with grateful satisfaction as he gave me this little bit of personal history.  A trustee of his Church told me that they were not willing at first to take the money from Ben, but that they saw plainly it would not do to refuse.  It was the fulfillment of a cherished object that he had carried so long in his simple, trusting heart, that to have rejected his gift would have been cruelty.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The last time I saw Ben he was working his way along a crowded thoroughfare, dragging his heavy leathers, his head reaching to the waist of the average man.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"How are you, Ben?"  I said, as we met.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Bless God, I'm first-rate!" he said, grasping my hand warmly, his face brightening, and every tooth visible.  It was clear he had not lost the secret.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Ben was not a Methodist--he was what is popularly called a Campbellite.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>OLD TUOLUMNE.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>THE former residents of Tuolumne county, California, meet once a year in some city or town, and celebrate "auld lang-syne" by an oration, a poem, a dinner, and other exercises.  These occasions become more interesting as the old times recede.  The author of this little volume was called to the office of poet laureate in 1875, and these verses are the result:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The bearded men in rude attire,<LB>With nerves of steel, and hearts of fire--<LB>The women few, but fair and sweet,<LB>Like shadowy visions dim and fleet--<LB>Again I see, again I hear,<LB>As through the past I dimly peer,<LB>And muse o'er buried joy and pain,<LB>And tread the hills of youth again.<LB>As speeds the torrent, strong and wild,<LB>Adown the mountains roughly piled,<LB>To find the plain, and there to sink<LB>In thirsty sands that eager drink <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<LB>The streams that toward the ocean flow,<LB>As on, and ever on, they go--<LB>Their course as brief, their doom as sure--<LB>A rush, a flash, and all is o'er!--<LB>So tides of life that early rolled<LB>Through old Tuolumne's hills of gold,<LB>Are spread and lost in other lands,<LB>Or swallowed in the desert sands,<LB>Where manhood's strength and beauty's bloom<LB>Have rushed to meet the common doom;<LB>The arm of might, the heart of love,<LB>The soul that soared to worlds above;<LB>The high intent that scaled the heights<LB>Where false Ambition's treacherous lights<LB>Delusive shine to mock and cheat<LB>The wretch who climbs with bleeding feet.<LB>O days of youth!  O days of power!<LB>Again ye come for one glad hour,<LB>To let us taste once more the joy<LB>That Time may dim, but not destroy.<LB>Again we feel our pulses thrill<LB>To hear sweet voices long since still;<LB>Again Hope's air-built castles bright<LB>Rise up before the enchanted sight.<LB>Ye are not lost!  The arm of might,<LB>The smile of beauty and brow of light,<LB>The love, the hope, the high emprise,<LB>The visions born in paradise.<LB>As all the streams that sink from sight<LB>In desert sands, and leave the light,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<LB>To the blue seas make silent way,<LB>To swell their tides some future day--<LB>So lives that sink and fade from view,<LB>Like scattered drops of rain or dew,<LB>Shall gather with all deathless souls,<LB>Where the eternal ocean rolls!<LB></HI>
059.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA, June 17, 1875.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE BLUE LAKES.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>IT is not strange that the Indians think the Blue Lakes are haunted, and that even the white man's superstition is not proof against the weird and solemn influence that broods over this spot of almost unearthly beauty.  They are about ten miles from Lakeport, the beautiful county-seat of Lake county, which nestles among the oaks on the margin of Clear Lake, a body of water about thirty miles long, and eight miles wide, surrounded by scenery so lovely as to make the visitor forget for the time that there is any ugliness in the world.  The first sight of Clear Lake, from the highest point of the great range of hills shutting it in on the south, will never be forgotten by any one who has a soul.  After winding slowly up, up, up the mountain road, a sharp turn is made, and you are on the summit.  The driver stops his panting team, you spring out of the "thorough-brace," and look, and look, and look.  Immediately below you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:is a sea of hills, stretching away to where they break against the lofty rampart of the coast-range on your left, and in front sinking gradually down into the valley below.  The lake lies beneath you, flashing like a mirror in the sunlight, its northern shore marked by rugged brown acclivities, the nearer side dotted with towns, villages, and farms, while "Uncle Sam," the monarch peak of all the region, lifts his awful head into the clouds, the sparkling waters kissing his feet.  I once saw "Uncle Sam" transfigured.  It was a day of storm.  The wind howled among the gorges of the hills, and the dark clouds swept above them in mighty masses, the rain falling in fitful and violent showers.  Pausing at the summit to rest the horse, and to get a glance at the scene in its wintry aspect, I drew my gray shawl closer, and leaned forward and gazed.  It was about the middle of the afternoon.  Suddenly a rift in the clouds westward let the sunshine through, and falling on "Uncle Sam," lo, a miracle!  The whole mountain, from base to summit, softened, blushed, and blazed with the prismatic colors.  It was a transfiguration.  The scene is symbolic.  Behind me and about me are cloud and tempest, typing the humanity of the past and the present with its conflicts, and trials, and dangers; before me the glorified mountain, typing the humanity of the future, enveloped in the rainbow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>The Blue Lakes lie among the hills above Clear Lake, and the road leads through dense forests, of which the gigantic white-oaks are the most striking feature.  It passes through Scott's Valley, a little body of rich land, the terraced hills behind, and the lake before.  Winding upward, the ascent is so gradual that you do not realize, until you are told, that the Blue Lakes are six hundred feet above the level of Clear Lake.  The lakes are three in number, and in very high water they are connected.  They are each perhaps a mile in length, and only a few hundred yards in width.  Their depth is immense.  Their waters are a particularly bright blue color, and so clear that objects are plainly seen many fathoms below the surface.  They are hemmed in by the mountains, the road being cut in the side of the overhanging bluff, while on the opposite side bold, rugged brown cliffs rise in almost perpendicular walls from the water's edge.  A growth of oaks shades the narrow vale between the lakes, and the mountain-pine, and oak, madrona, and manzanita clothe the heights.</P>
059.sgm:<P>There are the Blue Lakes.  A solemnity and awe steal over you.  Speech seems almost profane.  The very birds seem to hush their singing as they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>The feeling of superstitious awe is perhaps increased by the knowledge of the fact that no Indian will go near these lakes.  They say a monster inhabits the upper lake, and has subterranean communication with the two lower ones, and of this monster they have a mortal terror.  This terror is explained by the following legend:</P>
059.sgm:<P>Many, many moons ago, when the Ukiah Indians were a great and strong people, a fair-haired white man, of great stature, came from the sea-shore alone, and took up his abode with them.  He knew many things, and was stronger than any warrior of the tribe.  The chief took him to his own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>The Indians would go miles out of their way to avoid the haunted spot, and more than one white man affirmed that they had seen the Monster of Clear Lake.</P>
059.sgm:<P>One stormy day in the winter of eighteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"There's the Monster!"  I suddenly exclaimed.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Where?" asked my companion, starting, and straining his gaze upon the lake below.</P>
059.sgm:<P>There it was--a long, dark mass, with serpent-like movement, winding its way across the lake.  It suddenly vanished, without lifting above the water the woman's head with the bright hair and filmy eyes.  My companion expressed the prosaic idea that it was a school of fish swimming near the surface, but I am sure we saw all there was of the Monster of the Blue Lakes.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A CALIFORNIA MOUNTAIN ROAD.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>WE wound along the mountain way,<LB>My friend and I, and spake no word;<LB>We felt that air should but be stirred<LB>By bird's rich note, or wind's soft play.<LB>The deep blue sky to us said, "Hush;"<LB>The pure, soft air could not bear speech;<LB>And steep decline, and lofty reach,<LB>Kept silence all with tree and bush.<LB>What need for words when every sense<LB>Was full to brim?  We had no thought,<LB>But only felt the glow, and caught<LB>The mightiness, the joy intense.<LB>Uplifted high above it all,<LB>The shrouded maid, St. Helen,<ANCHOR ID="n18-1">*</ANCHOR>
059.sgm: lay;<LB>From either side there swept away<LB>A stretch of bare, brown earth, the pall.</HI>
059.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-1">Mount St. Helena is so called on account of its resemblance to the form of a recumbent maiden, when seen from the south.</NOTE>
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059.sgm:<P>The nearer slopes were clothed in green,<LB>With here and there the topaz flame<LB>Of poison-oak, of deadly fame;<LB>While far below was faintly seen,</P>
059.sgm:<P>In depths of shade, the foaming flow<LB>Of water from the mountain height.<LB>The can&tilde;on's sides were hung with light,<LB>Young trees, and starred with flowers' glow.</P>
059.sgm:<P>And oft from out the wild brush-wood,<LB>Like to some slender Indian maid,<LB>Upstarting from the thicket's shade,<LB>The redskin tree, Madrona, stood.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Behind us lay the giant stair,<LB>By which we pigmies reached this height;<LB>Each lessening step in that soft light<LB>Was violet-robed by the magic air.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Ah! that fair day!  'Twas crowned, complete;<LB>For that true friend who shared my ride,<LB>And Nature's self who stood beside,<LB>My dearest were, and they did meet.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Since then, my friend has left my side<LB>For Mother Earth's, and buried deep<LB>Where sea-winds wail, he sound doth sleep;<LB>And half is gone from tree and tide.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Though all unchanged that scene may be,<LB>Its charm for me would now be pain.<LB>I could not ride that road again,<LB>My friend in earth, and not with me.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>DR. ELEAZAR THOMAS.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>YOU and I are new-comers to California, and having had no part in the strifes in which some of our brethren have been engaged, we will act as peace-makers, and keep these belligerents quiet."</P>
059.sgm:<P>This was the half-playful remark of Dr. Eleazar Thomas, one of a group of preachers sitting in the parlor of the then editor of the <HI REND="italics">California Christian Advocate</HI>
059.sgm:<P>The speaker, like myself, had just arrived in California, in the capacity of a Methodist preacher--he from the North, and I from the South.  He was a man of pleasing and commanding presence, tall, ruddy-complexioned, with blue eyes, and lightish hair, with deliberate and distinct enunciation, and a winning manner.  Take the best points of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:Presbyterian preacher of the best class, and the best points of a Methodist preacher of the best class, and the combined result would be just such a man as he appeared to me that evening.  And now, after the lapse of twenty-four years, this description seems to suit him still.  Subsequent events recalled to my mind the remark I have quoted, but with widely different feelings at different times.  He became the editor of the Northern Methodist, and I of the Southern Methodist organ, in San Francisco.  The <HI REND="italics">California Christian Advocate</HI>
059.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Pacific Methodist</HI>
059.sgm: were like batteries planted on Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim respectively, waking the echoes by their cannonading in many an editorial duel.  The war drove us farther and still farther apart in opinion, but every time we met we drew closer to each other in personal attachment.  In those unhappy days, many a friendship was hopelessly wrecked by differences of political opinion--a fact which shows how ardent were the convictions on both sides, and explains the fact of a five years' deadly conflict between men speaking the same language, reading the same Bible, praying to the same God, reared under the same constitution, and cherishing the same historic memories.  Both sides were in earnest, and it was their sad fate to be compelled to fight out a quarrel bequeathed to them by their glorious but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"But you may see which side God was on by the result."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"That will not do," I answered; "if the triumph of brute force is to be taken as evidence of the Divine approval, you will have to unread the larger part of history.  On that principle, those that crucified Jesus were right, and he was wrong; the mob was right, and Stephen was wrong; Rome was right, and the victims she ground under her Iron heel were wrong; Austria was right, and Hungary was wrong; Russia was right, and poor Poland was wrong.  As I read history, it teaches that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:the right has usually been advanced, not by its triumphs on the bloody field, but by the sublime fortitude of its adherents under defeat, and in the midst of suffering and sorrow.  If I were to presume to interpret the providence of God, and to infer what are his designs, a different conclusion might be reached.  A strong nation conquers the weak nation.  The able-bodied ruffian flogs the feeble-bodied saint.  Three men in the wrong will, in an appeal to brute force, be more than a match for one in the right.  That is the usual course of events.  Now and then God makes bare his arm in such a way as to show that the race is not always to the swift, nor the battle to the strong.  God may have been on the winning side in the late war, as you say, but it will not do for a Christian man to assume that He is always on the side that prevails on the bloody field.  That would be making him <HI REND="italics">particeps criminis</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"Well, we can at least agree in the hope and prayer that He will overrule all for the good of all in our land, and that with peace may come mutual forgiveness and universal prosperity."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes; I can unite heartily with you in that hope and prayer."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Give me your hand," he said impulsively; "henceforward we must all stand together, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>He stood to that pledge, meaning what he said.  We met frequently, and I always felt that my spirit was sweetened, and my horizon broadened, by intercourse with this strong thinker who had cast aside the strait-jacket of provincialism and bigotry, and whose own vision had a widening range.  Agreeing in spirit, our very differences of opinion enhanced the charm of his society and the relish of his conversation.  This man was the type of an immense class, both North and South, whose traditions and natural affiliations made them stubborn antagonists in war times, but to whose broad patriotism, conscientious conservatism, and sweet Christian spirit, our country must look for the speedy restoration and perpetual enjoyment of the blessings and benefits of national union.  When, as a fraternal delegate to the Pacific Conference (with Dr. M. C. Briggs as associate), held at Vacaville in 1868, after his beautiful and touching address, I rose and extended him my hand in token of fraternity, I did so all the more cordially because I knew that behind his glowing, fraternal words, there was beating a warm, fraternal heart.  The scene was dramatic, but not intentionally so, when, as the interview proceeded, the tide of good-feeling rose higher and higher, until, sweeping away all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>When Dr. Thomas was appointed by the President of the United States a peace commissioner to the Modoc Indians, all Californians recognized his fitness for the position.  If a peace policy was to be followed, it was proper that a minister of the Prince of Peace should be called into service.  Whether the "Quaker policy," so called, was the right one, is a question concerning which the men on the border and the theorists in older communities have always differed.  William Penn was successful in dealing with Indians.  So were Andrew Jackson, Jack Hays, and General Crook--but in a different way.  The history of the Modoc war may be taken as typical of the whole history of our dealings with the Indians.  The whites were arbitrary, and the Indians savage and treacherous.  The immediate cause of the war was the attempted forcible removal of the Indians to a reservation, in the fall of 1872.  The Modocs, who had already a bad reputation, resisted.  The small detachment of soldiers sent to remove them was attacked, and, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:after a brisk fight, the Modocs fled to the hills along the Oregon line, killing twelve or fourteen unfortunate whites on their retreat.  The United States soldiers sent to operate against them failed to accomplish any thing farther than to get several of their number killed and scalped.  The Indians took refuge in the lava-beds--a mass of volcanic rock in Siskiyou county, California, about three miles wide and six miles long, and in places rising to a considerable height.  These rocks are honeycombed with holes and caves, affording shelter and concealment for thousands of men.  They are four hundred and eighty miles north of San Francisco, and about two hundred miles from Crescent City, on the extreme northern coast-line of California.  Mount Shasta, 14,440 feet above the sea, glacier-crowned, is seventy miles south.  Captain Jack, chief of the Modocs, intrenched in this stronghold of nature, defied the United States army, repelling every assault, shooting down the soldiers with impunity.  The Indians became more exacting in their demands, believing themselves impregnable.  At this juncture the four Peace Commissioners--General Canby, Dr. Thomas, and Dyar and Meacham--met a delegation of Modoc warriors by invitation of Captain Jack, who stipulated that none but the commissioners should be present, and that all should go unarmed.  On the morning of May 11, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:1873, Captain Jack, with four warriors, issued from the lava-beds, and in a chosen spot met the commissioners.  The formalities usual on such occasions were gone through with, several "talks" were had, and the negotiations seemed to be making good progress, when, quick as thought, the treacherous Modoc chief snatched a pistol which he had concealed on his person, and shouting to his men, " <HI REND="italics">Hetuck!"  "Hetuck</HI>
059.sgm:<P>So ended the mission of the peace-maker, and so died my friend.  His body was brought to San Francisco, and was given such a burial as is bestowed only upon heroes and public benefactors.  The civil dignitaries of the State and city, the officers and soldiers of the army, the venerable and honored ministers of Christ, and a vast multitude of sorrowful men and women, gathered at the sanctuary on Powell street, where his voice was first heard in San Francisco, uniting to honor a man who lived nobly and died gloriously at the post of duty.  To our poor human sight, it seems as if in the battle that is being fought for all that is dear and distinctive in our Christian civilization in California, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FATHER ACOLTI.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>I FIRST met him one day in 1857, in the Santa Cruz Mountains.  Stopping at a sort of wayside inn near the summit to water my horse, a distinguished-looking man, who stood by his buggy with a bucket in his hand, saluted me--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Good-morning, sir.  You wish to water your horse--may I wait on you?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>His manner would have melted in a moment a whole mountain of conventional ice, it was so cordial and so spontaneous.  Disregarding my mild protest against being waited on by my senior, he filled the bucket from the sparkling fountain, and gave it to the thirsty animal, still panting from the long climb up the mountain-side.  In the meantime we had exchanged names and occupations--he, Father Acolti, a priest, and teacher in the Jesuit College at Santa Clara; and I, the writer of these humble Sketches.  As he stood there before me, he looked like any thing rather than a disciple <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>Father Acolti and I met often after this.  On the highway, in the social circles of the lovely Santa Clara Valley, and especially in the abodes of sickness and poverty, I crossed his path.  He seemed to have an instinct that guided him to the needy and the sorrowing.  It is certain that the instinct of suffering souls led them to the presence of the old priest, whose face was so fatherly, whose voice was so gentle, whose eye melted so readily with pity, and whose hand was so quick to extend relief.</P>
059.sgm:<P>There was a tinge of romance in Father Acolti's history.  He was an Italian of noble birth.  A beautiful woman had given him her heart and hand, and before one year of wedded happiness had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:passed she died.  The young nobleman's earthly hope and ambition died with her.  He sold his estates, visited her tomb for the last time, and then, renouncing the world, applied for admission into the mysterious order of the Society of Jesus, an organization whose history makes the most curious chapter in the record of modern religious conflict.  Having served his novitiate, he was ready for work.  His scientific attainments and tastes naturally drew him to the work of education, and doubtless he heartily responded to the command to repair to California as one of a corps of teachers who were to lay the foundations of an educational system for the Roman Catholic Church.  But in reality, the Jesuits had entered California nearly ninety years before, and laid the foundations upon which their successors are now building.  The old mission-churches, with their vineyards and orchards, are the monuments of their zeal and devotion.  The California Digger Indians were the subjects of the missionary zeal of the early Jesuit Fathers, and whether the defect was in the methods of the teachers, or in the capabilities of their Indian neophytes, the effort to elevate those poor red brethren of ours to the plane of Christian civilization failed.  They are still savages, and on the path to extinction.  The Digger will become neither a citizen nor a Christian.  He is one of the very lowest of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>One fact in Father Acolti's history invested him with peculiar interest in the minds of the people: He was of noble blood.  I do not know how many persons in the Santa Clara Valley whispered this secret to me as a fact of great importance.  Democrats and republicans as they are in theory, no people on earth have in their secret hearts a profounder reverence for titles of nobility than the Americans.  From Father Acolti himself no hint of any thing of the kind was ever heard.  He never talked of himself.  Nor did I ever hear him mention his religious views, except in very general terms.  It is said, and perhaps truly, that the Jesuits are all propagandists by profession; but this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>After my removal to San Francisco, he too was transferred to the metropolis, and assigned to duty in connection with the Jesuit church and college, on Market street.  Here again I found his tracks wherever I went among the poor and the miserable.  Whether it was a dying foreigner in the sandhills, a young man without money hunting for work, a poor widow bewildered and helpless in her grief, a woman with a drunken husband and a house full of hungry children, a prisoner in the jail, or a sick man in the hospital, Father Acolti's hand was sure to be found in any scheme of relief.  Meeting him on the street, you would catch a glow from his kind face and friendly voice, and in most instances leave him with a smile at some little pleasantry that rippled forth as he stood with his hand resting familiarly on your shoulder.  He loved his little joke, but it was never at the expense of any human being, and his merriment never went farther than a smile that brightened all over his broad face.  There was that about him that repelled the idea of boisterous mirth.  The shadow of a great sorrow still lay in the background of his consciousness, shading and softening his sky, but not obscuring its light.  As his step <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MY FIRST CALIFORNIA CAMP-MEETING.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>A CALIFORNIA camp-meeting I had never seen, and so when the eccentric Dr. Cannon, who was dentist, evangelist, and many other things all at once, sent me an invitation to be present at one that was soon to come off near Vallecito, in Calaveras county, I promptly signified my acceptance, and began preparation for the trip.  It was in 1856, when we occupied the parsonage in Sonora that had been bequeathed to us in all its peculiar glory by our bachelor predecessors.  It had one room, which served all the purposes of parlor, library, dining-room, and <HI REND="italics">boudoir</HI>
059.sgm:.  The book-case was two dry-goods boxes placed lengthwise, one above the other.  The safe, or cupboard, was a single dry-goods box, nailed to the red-wood boards, of which the house was built, with cleats for our breakfast, dinner, and tea-sets, which, though mentioned here in the plural form, were singular in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:more than one sense of the word.  The establishment boasted a kitchen, the roof of which was less than the regulation height of the American soldier, the floor of which was made by nature, the one window of which had neither sash nor glass, the door of which had no lock, but was kept shut by a small leather strap and an eight-penny nail and its successors.  The thieves did not steal from us--they couldn't.  Dear old cabin on the hill-side!  It brings up only pleasant memories of a time when life was young, and hope was bright.  When we closed the door of the parsonage, and, sitting behind McCarthy &amp; Cooper's two-horse team--one a beautiful white, the other a shining bay--dashed out of town in the direction of the bold and brawling Stanislaus, no fear was felt for any valuables left behind.  The prancing of that spirited white horse on the narrow grade that wound its way a thousand feet above the bed of the river was a more serious matter, suggesting the possibility of an adventure that would have prevented the writing of these Sketches.  The Stanislaus, having its sources among the springs and snows of the Sierras, was a clear and sparkling stream before the miners muddied it by their digging its banks and its bed for gold.  It cuts its way through a wild and rugged region, dashing, foaming, fighting for its passage along narrow passes where the beetling cliffs and toppling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>An expected circus had rather thrown the camp-meeting into the background.  The highly-colored sensational posters were seen in every conspicuous place, and the talk of the hotel-keepers, hostlers, and straggling pedestrians, was all about the circus.  The camp-meeting was a bold experiment, under the circumstances.  The camp-ground was less than a mile from Vallecito, a mining camp, whose reputation was such as to suggest the need <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>During the first day and night of the meeting, small but well-behaved audiences waited upon the word, manifesting apparently more curiosity than religious interest.  The second night was a solemn and trying time.  The crowd had rushed to the circus.  Three or four preachers and about a dozen hearers held the camp-ground.  The lanterns, swung in the oaks, gave a dim, uncertain light, the gusts of wind that rose, and fell, and moaned among the branches of the trees threatening their extinguishment every moment.  One or two of the lights <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"The Lord is going to do a great work here," he said at the close of the service, rubbing his hands together excitedly.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"What makes you think so?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"The devil is busy working against us, and when the devil works the Lord is sure to work too.  The people are all at the circus to-night, but their consciences will be uneasy.  The Holy Spirit will be at work with them.  To-morrow night you will see a great crowd here, and souls will be converted."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Perhaps there were few that indorsed his logic, or shared his faith, but the result singularly verified his prophecy.  The circus left the camp.  The reaction seemed to be complete.  A great crowd came out next night, the lights burned more brightly, the faithful felt better, the preachers took fire, penitents were invited and came forward for prayers, and for the first time the old camp-meeting choruses echoed among the Calaveras hills.  The meeting continued day and night, the crowd increasing at every service until Sunday.  Many a wandering believer, coming in from the hills and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>On Sunday, Bishop Kavanaugh preached to an immense crowd.  That eloquent Kentuckian was in one of his inspired moods, and swept every thing before him.  For nearly two hours he held the vast concourse of people spell-bound, and toward the end of his sermon his form seemed to dilate, his face kindled into a sort of radiance, and his voice was like a golden trumpet.  Amens and shouts burst forth all around the stand, and tears rained from hundreds of eyes long unused to the melting mood.  California had her camp-meeting christening that day.  Attracted by curiosity, a Digger Indian chief, with a number of "bucks" and squaws, had come upon the ground.  The chief had seated himself against a tree on the outer edge of the crowd, and never took his eyes from the Bishop for a moment.  I watched him almost as closely as he watched the Bishop, for I was curious to know what were the thoughts passing through his benighted mind, and to see what effect the service would have upon him.  His interest seemed to increase as the discourse proceeded.  At length he showed signs of profound emotion; his bosom heaved, tears streamed down his tawny cheeks, and finally, in a burst of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:irrepressible admiration, he pointed to the Bishop, and exclaimed, " <HI REND="italics">Capitan</HI>
059.sgm:!" " <HI REND="italics">Capitan</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"Hark! listen to that song," said the Bishop, as a chorus, in a clear, bugle-like voice, floated out upon the midnight air.  The words I do not clearly recall; there was something about <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The sweet fields of Eden,<LB>On the other side of Jordan,<LB></HI>
059.sgm:<P>and a chorus ending in "hallelujah."  I seemed to float upward on the wings of that melody, beyond the starry depths, through the gates of pearl, until it seemed to mingle with the sublime doxologies of the great multitude of the glorified that no one can number.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"What opera can equal that?  There is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>The Bishop's thought was not new, but I had a new perception of its truth at that moment.</P>
059.sgm:<P>One of the converts of this camp-meeting was Levi Vanslyke.  A wilder mustang was never caught by the gospel lasso.  (Excuse this figure--it suits the case.)  He was what was termed a "capper" to a gambling-hell in the town.  Tall, excessively angular, jerky in movement, with singularly uneven features, his face and figure were very striking.  He drifted with the crowd to the camp-ground one night, and his destiny was changed.  He never went back to gambling.  His conscience was awakened, and his soul mightily stirred, by the preaching, prayers, and songs.  Amid the wonder and smiles of the crowd, he rose from his seat, went forward, and kneeled among the penitents, exhibiting signs of deep distress.  An arrow of conviction had penetrated his heart, and brought him down at the foot of the cross.  There he knelt, praying.  The services were protracted far into the night, exhortations, songs, and prayers filling up the time.  Suddenly Vanslyke rose from his knees with a bound, his face beaming with joy, and indulged in demonstrations which necessitated the suspension of all other exercises.  He shouted and praised God, he shook hands with the brethren.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>Vanslyke was converted, a brand plucked from the burning.  No room was left for doubt.  He abandoned his old life at once.  Soon he felt inward movings to preach the gospel, and began to study theology.  He was a hard student, if not an apt one, and succeeded in passing the examinations (which in those days were not very rigid), and in due time was standing as a watchman on the walls of Zion.  He was a faithful and useful minister of Jesus Christ.  There was no backward movement in his religious life.  He was faithful unto death, taking the hardest circuits uncomplainingly, always humble, self-denying, and cheerful, doing a work for his Master which many a showier man might covet in the day when He will reckon with His servants.  He traveled and preached many years, a true soldier of Jesus Christ.  He died in great peace, and is buried among the hills of Southern Oregon.</P>
059.sgm:<P>An episode connected with this camp-meeting was a visit to the Big Tree Grove of Calaveras.  Every reader is familiar with descriptions of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:wonderful forest, but no description can give an adequate impression of its solemn grandeur and beauty.  The ride from Murphy's Camp in the early morning; the windings of the road among the colossal and shapely pines; the burst of wonder and delight of some of our party, and the silent yet perhaps deeper enjoyment of others, as we rode into the midst of the Titanic grove--all this made an experience which cannot be transferred to the printed page.  The remark of the thoughtful woman who walked by my side expressed the sentiment that was uppermost in my own consciousness as I contemplated these wonders of the Almighty's handiwork: "God has created one spot where he <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE TRAGEDY AT ALGERINE.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>HOW Algerine Camp got its name I cannot tell.  It was named before my day in California.  The miners called it simply "Algerine," for short.  They had a peculiar way of abbreviating all proper names.  San Francisco was "Frisco," Chinese Camp was "Chinee," and Jamestown was "Jimtown."  So Algerine was as many syllables as could be spared for this camp, whose fame still lingers as one of the richest, rowdiest, bloodiest camps of the Southern mines.  Situated some seven or eight miles from Sonora, if in the early days it did not rival that lively city in size, it surpassed it in the recklessness with which its denizens gave themselves up to drinking, fighting, gambling, and general licentiousness.  The name suited the place, whatever may have been its etymology.  It was at the height of its glory for rich diggings and bad behavior in 1851.  Lucky strikes and wild doings were the order of the day.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>With all its wickedness, Algerine had a public opinion and moral code of its own.  The one sin that had no forgiveness was stealing.  The remaining nine of the Ten Commandments nobody seemed to remember, but a stand was taken upon the eighth.  Men that swore, ignored the Sabbath, gambled, got drunk, and were ready to use the pistol or knife on the slightest pretext, would flame with virtuous rage, and clamor for capital punishment, if a sluice were robbed, or the least article of any sort stolen.  A thief was more completely outlawed than a murderer.  The peculiar conditions existing, and the genius of the country, combined to develop this anomalous public sentiment, which will be illustrated by an incident that occurred in the year above referred to.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>About 9 o'clock one morning, a messenger was seen riding at full speed through the main street of Sonora, his horse panting, and white with foam.  He made his way to the sheriff's office, and on the appearance of one of the deputies, cried--well, I won't give his exact words, for they are not quotable; but the substance of his message was that a robbery had been committed at Algerine, that a mob had collected, and that one of the supposed robbers was in their hands.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Hurry up, Captain, or you'll be too late to do any good--the camp is just boiling!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>Captain Stuart, the deputy-sheriff, was soon in the saddle, and on the way to Algerine.  Stuart was a soldierly-looking man, over six feet high, square-shouldered, brawny, and with a dash of gracefulness in his bearing.  He had fought in the war with Mexico, was know to be as brave as a lion, and was a general favorite.  On a wider field he has since achieved a wider fame.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"There they are, Captain," said the messenger, pointing to the hill overlooking the camp from the north.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"My God! it's only a boy!" exclaimed Stuart, as his eye took in the scene.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Stripped of all but his shirt and white pants, bareheaded and barefooted, with a rope around his neck, the other end of which was held by a big, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"It's a shame, boys, to hang a child like that," said one, with a choking voice.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"It would be an eternal disgrace to the camp to allow it," said another.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Immediately surrounding the prisoner there was a growing party anxious to save him, whose intercessions had made quite a delay already.  But the mob were blood-thirsty, and loud in their clamor for the hanging to go on.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Up with him!"  "What are you waiting for?"  "Lift him, Bill!" and similar demands were made by a hundred voices at once.</P>
059.sgm:<P>In the midst of this contention Stuart, having dismounted, pushed his way by main strength through the crowd, and reached the side of the prisoner, whose face brightened with hope as the tall form of the officer of the law towered above him.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The appearance of the officer seemed to excite the mob, and a rush was made for the prisoner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"Keep back, you hounds!  I'll blow out the brains of the first man that touches this boy!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>The front rank of the mob paused, keeping in check the yelling crowd behind them.  The big fellow holding the rope kept his eye on Stuart, and seemed for the moment ready to surrender the honors of leadership to anybody who was covetous of the same.  The cowardly brute quailed before a brave man's glance.  He still held the rope, but kept his face averted from his intended victim.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Stuart, taking advantage of the momentary silence, made an earnest appeal to the mob.  Pointing to the pale and trembling boy, he reminded them that he was only a youth, the mere tool and victim of the older criminals who had made their escape.  To hang him would be simply murder, and every one who might have a hand in it would be haunted by the crime through life.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Men, you are mad when you talk of hanging a mere boy like that.  Are you savages?  Where is your manhood?  Instead of murdering him, it would be better to send him back to his poor old mother and sisters in the States."</P>
059.sgm:<P>The central group, at this point, presented a striking picture.  The poor boy standing bareheaded in the sun, looking, in his white garments, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>Again cries of "Up with him!"  "Hang him!"  "No more palaver!" were raised on the outer ranks of the mob, and another rush was made toward the prisoner.  Stuart's voice and eye again arrested the movement.  He appealed to their manhood and mercy in the most persuasive and impassioned manner, and it was evident that his appeals were not without effect on some of the men nearest to him.  Seeing this, several of the more determined ruffians, with oaths and cries of fury, suddenly rushed forward with such impetuosity that Stuart was borne backward by their weight, the rope was grasped by several hands at once, and the prisoner was jerked with such violence as to pull him off his feet.</P>
059.sgm:<P>At this moment the sound of horses' hoofs was heard, and in another instant the reckless <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:daredevil, Billy Worth, mounted on a powerful bay, pistol in hand, had opened a lane through the crowd, and quick as thought he cut the rope that bound the prisoner, and, with the assistance of two or three friendly hands, lifted him into the saddle before him, and galloped off in the direction of Sonora.  The mob was paralyzed by the audacity of this proceeding, and attempted no immediate pursuit.  The fact is, Worth's reputation as a desperate fighter and sure shot was such that none of them had any special desire to get within range of his revolver.  If his virtues had equaled his courage, Billy Worth's name would have been one of the brightest on the roll of California's heroes.  At this time he was an <HI REND="italics">attache&acute;</HI>
059.sgm:<P>The mob dispersed slowly and sullenly, and, as the sequel proved, still bent on mischief.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The next morning the early risers in Sonora were thrilled with horror to find the poor boy hanging by the neck from a branch of an oak on the hill-side above the City Hotel.  The Algerine mob had reo&uml;rganized, marched into town at dead of night, overpowered the jailer, taken out their victim, and hung him.  By sunrise, thousands, drawn by the fascination of horror, had gathered to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>A singular fact must be added to this narrative.  The tree on which the boy was hanged was a healthy, vigorous young oak, in full leaf.  <HI REND="italics">In a few days its every leaf had withered</HI>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CALIFORNIA TRAITS.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIANS of the golden decades have never been surpassed in spontaneous, princely generosity.  If a miner got hurt by a "cave," or premature explosion, it only took a few hours to raise five hundred or a thousand dollars for his widow.  The veriest sot or tramp had only to get sick to be supplied with all that money could buy.  There never was another people so open-handed to poverty, sickness, or the stranger.  They were wild, wicked fellows, and made sad havoc of the larger part of the decalogue; but if deeds of charity are put to the credit of sinners, the Recording Angel smiled with inward joy as he put down many an item on the credit side of the eternal ledger.  This trait distinguished all alike--saints and sinners, merchants and miners, gamblers and politicians, Jews and Gentiles, Yankees and Southerners, natives and foreigners.  Here and there would be found a mean, close-fisted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>A notable exhibition of this spontaneous and princely generosity in the Californians took place in 1867.  The war had left the South decimated, broken, improverished--a land of grief and of graves.  Already in 1866 the gaunt specter of Famine hovered over the fated South.  The next year a general drought completed the catastrophe.  The crops failed, there was no money, the war had stripped the Southern people of all but their lives and their land.  It was a dark day.  Starvation menaced hundreds of thousands of men, women, and children.  By telegraph, by newspaper correspondents, and by private letters, the distressing news reached California.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>A poor widow in Sonoma county, reading in the newspapers the accounts given of the suffering in the South, sent me six dollars and fifty cents, with a note saying she had earned the money by taking in washing.  She added that it was but a mite, but it would help a little, leaving it to my discretion to send it where it was most needed.  Her modest note was published in <HI REND="italics">The Christian Spectator</HI>
059.sgm:<P>The whole movement was carried out in true Californian style.  A single incident will illustrate the spirit in which it was done.  A week or two after the widow's note had been published, I had occasion to visit San Jose.  It was Saturday, the great day for traffic in that flourishing city.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:streets were thronged with vehicles and horses, and men and women, sauntering, trading, talking, gazing.  The great center of resort was the junction of Santa Clara and First streets.  As I was pushing my way through the dense mass of human beings at this point, I met Frank Stewart<ANCHOR ID="n24-1">*</ANCHOR>
059.sgm: --filibuster, philosopher, mineralogist, and editor.<LB></P>
059.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-1">Stewart was with Walker in Nicaragua, and wrote an entertaining narrative of that romantic and tragic historical episode, entitled "The Last of the Filibusters."</NOTE>
059.sgm:<P>"Wait here a moment," said Stewart to me.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Springing into an empty express-wagon, he cried "O yes," "O yes," "O yes," after the manner of sheriffs.  The crowd gathered around him with inquiring looks.  I stood looking on, wondering what he meant.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Fellow-citizens," said Stewart, "while you are here enjoying prosperity and plenty, there is want in the homes of the South.  Men, women, and children there are starving.  They are our own countrymen--bone of our bone, and flesh of our flesh.  We must send them help, and we must send it promptly.  I tell you they are starving!  In many homes this very night hungry children will sob themselves to sleep without food!  But yonder I see an old neighbor, whom you all know," pointing to me; "he has recently visited the South, is in direct communication with it, and will be able to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>I attempted a retreat, but in vain.  Almost before I knew it they had me on the express-wagon, talking to the crowd.  It was a novel situation to me, and I felt awkward at first.  The whole proceeding was a surprise.  But there was sympathy and encouragement in the upturned faces of those Californians, and I soon felt at ease standing in my strange pulpit in the open air.  My audience kept growing, the people deserting the street auctioneers, the stores, the saloons, and the sidewalks, and pressing close around the express-wagon.  After describing scenes I had witnessed, I was giving some details of the latest news from the distressed localities, when a dark-skinned, grave-looking little man pressed his way through the crowd, and silently laid a five-dollar gold-piece on the seat of the express-wagon, at my feet.  The effect was electric.  Another, another, and another followed.  Not a word was spoken, but strong breasts heaved with emotion, and many a bronzed cheek was wet.  I could not go on with my speech, but broke down completely.  Still the money poured in.  It seemed as if every man in the vast throng had caught the feeling of the moment, as the Angel of Mercy hovered over the spot, and shed the dews of heaven <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"Sell this for the benefit of the cause."</P>
059.sgm:<P>This was indeed a new <HI REND="italics">role</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"Who will give five dollars for this cask of wine, the money to go to help the starving?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I will," said a man from Ohio, standing directly in front of me, advancing and laying down the money as he spoke.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Who else will give five dollars for it?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"I will"--"And I"--"And I"--"And I"--the responses came thick and fast, until the gallon-cask of wine had brought in eighty-five dollars.  The last purchaser, a tall, good-natured fellow from Maine, said to me as he turned and walked off--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Take the cask home with you, and keep it as a memento of this day."</P>
059.sgm:<P>The crowd scattered, and I gathered and counted the silver and gold that lay at my feet.  It filled the canvas sack furnished by a friendly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>It ought to be added here that, in this work of relief for the South, Northern men and women were not a whit behind those from the South.  The first subscriber to the fund, and the most active worker in its behalf in San Francisco, was Thomas H. Selby, a New-Yorker of noble and princely spirit, whose subsequent death robbed California of one of its richest jewels.  I am glad to claim national kinship with such men and women.</P>
059.sgm:<P>On the afternoon before Thanksgiving-day, in eighteen hundred and sixty-something, two little girls came into my office, on Washington street.  One was a chubby, curly-headed little beauty, about five years old.  The other was a crippled child, about ten, with a pale, suffering face, and earnest, pleading blue eyes.  She walked with crutches, and was out of breath when she got to the top of the long, narrow staircase in the third story of Reese's building, where I dispensed "copy" for the printer and school law for the pedagogues in those days.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"I am lying sick on Larkin street, near Sacramento, and there is not a mouthful to eat or cent of money in the house."</P>
059.sgm:<P>I recognized the signature as that of a man I had met at the Napa Springs two years before; he was then, as now, an invalid.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I took my hat and cane, and followed the children.  It was painful work for the crippled girl, climbing the hill in the face of the heavy wind from the sea.  Often she had to pause and rest a few moments, panting for breath, and trembling from weakness.  When we reached the house, which was a rickety shanty, partly buried in the sand, a hollow-eyed, hopeless-looking woman met us at the door.  She had the dull, weary look of a woman worn out with care and loss of rest.  On a coarse bedstead lay the invalid.  As soon as he saw me he pulled the quilt over his head, and gave way to his feelings.  His sobs fairly shook the frail tenement.  Looking around, I was shocked to see the utter absence of every thing necessary to the comfort of a family.  They had parted with every article that would bring a little money with which to buy food.  Where the children, five in number, slept I could not conceive.  Making a short stay, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>The next day my purpose was to go to Calvary Church and hear a sermon from the brilliant Dr. Charles Wadsworth, with whom striking and eloquent thanksgiving-sermons had long been a specialty.  On my way to church I thought of the helpless family in the sand-hills, and I resolved to change my thanksgiving programme.  The thought was suggested to my mind that I would go up one side of Montgomery street and down the other, and ask every acquaintance I should happen to meet for a contribution to my <HI REND="italics">prote&acute;ge&acute;s</HI>
059.sgm: on Lar kin street.  The day was lovely, and all San Francisco was on the streets.  (You must go to California to learn how delightful a November day can be.)  Before I had gone two squares so much specie had been given me that I found it necessary to get a sack to hold it.  On the corner of California street I came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>The sad, hollow-eyed woman met me at the door.  I handed her the sack--she felt its weight, began to tremble, staggered to the bed, and sinking down upon it, burst into a fit of violent weeping.  The reaction was too sudden for her--poor, worn creature!  The sick man also cried, and the children cried--and I am not sure my own eyes were dry.  I left them very soon, and wended my way homeward to my cottage on the western edge of Russian Hill, above the sea.  My thanksgiving dinner was enjoyed that day.</P>
059.sgm:<P>About seven years afterward a man overtook me on the street in San Francisco, and grasping my hand warmly, called me by name:</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Don't you know me?  Don't you remember the man to whom you brought that money on thanksgiving-day, seven years ago?  I'm the man.  That money made my fortune.  I was able to obtain medicines and comforts which before I had not the means to buy; my mind was relieved of its load of terrible mental anxiety; my health began to improve from that day, and now I am a well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>What more he said, as he held and pressed my hand, need not be repeated.</P>
059.sgm:<P>If we search for the cause of this Californian trait of character, perhaps it may be found in the fact that the early Californians were mostly adventurers.  (Please remember that this word has a good as well as a bad sense.)  Their own vicissitudes and wrestlings with fortune gave them a vivid realization of the feelings of a fellow-man struggling with adversity.  It was a great Brotherhood of Adventure, from whose fellowship no man was excluded.  They would fight to the death over a disputed claim; they would too often make the strong hand the test of right; they gave their animal passions free play, and enacted bloody tragedies.  But they never shut their purses against the distressed, nor turned a deaf ear to the voice of sorrow.  Doubtless the ease and rapidity with which fortunes were made in the early days also contributed to produce this free-handedness.  A man who made, or hoped to make, a fortune in a week, did not stop to count the money he spent on his schemes, his passions, or his charities.  Cases came to my knowledge in which princely fortunes were squandered by a week of debauch with cards, wine, and women.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>A sailor struck a "pocket" on Wood's Creek, and took out forty thousand dollars in two days.  He went into town, deposited the dust, drew several thousand dollars in coin, and entered upon a debauch.  In a day or two the coin was exhausted, the gamblers, saloon-keepers, and bad women having divided it between them.  Half-crazed with drink, he called for his gold-dust, and taking it to the "Long Tom," he began to bet heavily against a faro-bank.  Staking handfuls of the shining dust, he alternately won and lost, until, becoming excited beyond control, he staked the entire sack of gold-dust, valued at twenty-eight thousand dollars, on a single card, and--lost, of course.  He went to bed and slept off the fumes of his drunkenness, got money enough to take him to San Francisco, where he shipped as a common sailor on a vessel bound for Shanghai.  He expressed no regret for the loss of his treasure, but boasted that he had a jolly time while it lasted.</P>
059.sgm:<P>In Sonora there was a rough, whisky-loving fellow, named Bill F--, who divided his time between gambling, drinking, and deer-hunting.  One day he took his rifle and sallied forth in search of venison.  He wandered among the hills for several hours without finding any game.  Reaching a projection of Bald Mountain, a few hundred yards below the summit, tired and hot, he threw himself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>"What's this?" he suddenly exclaimed.  "Hurrah!  I have struck it! It's gold!  It's gold!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>And so it was gold.  Bill had struck a "pocket," and a rich one.  His deer-hunt was a lucky one after all.  Marking well the spot, he lost no time in hurrying back to Sonora, where he provided himself with a strong, iron-bound water-bucket, and then returned with his treasure, which amounted to forty thousand dollars.  The "pocket" was exhausted.  Though much labor and money were expended in the search, no more gold could be found there.  Bill took his gold to town, and was the hero of the hour.  But one way of celebrating his good fortune occurred to his mind.  He went on a big spree-whisky, cards, etc.  He was a quarrelsome and ugly fellow when drinking.  The very next day he got into a fight at the City Hotel, and was shot dead, leaving the most of his bucketful of gold-dust unspent.  The time and manner of Bill's death was, in its result, the best thing known of his history.  A strange thing happened: the money found its way to his mother in Pennsylvania, every dollar of it.  Public sentiment aided the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CALIFORNIA WEDDINGS.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>IF the histories connected with the California weddings that I have attended could be written out in full, what tragedies, comedies, and farces would excite the tears and laughter of the susceptible reader!  Orange blossoms and pistols are mingled in the matrimonial retrospect.  The sound of merry wedding-bells, the wails of heart-broken grief, and the imprecations of desperate hate, echo in the ear of memory as I begin this chapter on California Weddings.  Nothing else could give a better picture of the vanishing phases of the social life of California.  But prudence and good taste restrain my pencil.  Too many of the parties are still living, and the subject is too delicate, to allow entire freedom of delineation.  A guarded glance is all that may be allowed.  No real names will be called.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Mounted on "Old Frank" one clear, bracing morning in 1856, I was galloping along the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>But little was said by us.  The pace was too rapid for conversation, and neither of us was in the mood for commonplaces.  My fellow-horseman's face, usually wearing half a sneer and half a frown, bore an expression I had never seen on it before.  It was an expression of gentleness and thoughtfulness, and it became him so well that I found myself frequently turning to look at him.  Suddenly reining in his horse, he cried to me--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Stop, parson; I have something to say to you."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Checking "Old Frank," I waited for him to come up with me.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Will you be at home to-morrow?"</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"Yes, I shall be at home."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Then come to this address at 1 o'clock, prepared to perform a marriage ceremony."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Penciling the address on a slip of paper, he handed it to me, and we rode on, resuming the rapid gallop which was the only gait known to the early Californians.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The next day I was punctual to the appointment.  In the parlor of one of the coziest little cottages in the lower part of the city I found a number of lawyers, and other well-known citizens, with several women.  The room was tastefully decorated with flowers of exquisite odor.  A beautiful little girl about four years old came into the apartment.  Richly and tastefully dressed, perfectly formed, elastic and graceful in her movements, with dark eyes, brilliant and large, and cheeks glowing with health, she was a sweet picture of fresh and innocent childhood.  She looked around upon the guests, shyly declining the caresses that were offered her.  Taking a seat by one of the women, she sat silent and wondering.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Is n't she a perfect beauty!" said Dr. A--, whose own subsequent marriage made a strange chapter in the social annals of the place.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes, she is a little queen, and I am glad for her sake that this little affair is to come off," said another.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>In a few minutes G--entered the room with a woman on his arm.  She was fair and slender, with a weak mouth and nervous manner.  Traces of tears were on her cheeks, but she was smiling.  The company rose as I advanced to meet them, and remained standing while the solemn ceremony was being pronounced which made them husband and wife.  When the last words were said, they kissed each other, and then G--, yielding to a sudden impulse, caught up the little girl in his arms, and almost smothered her with passionate kisses.  Not a word was spoken, but many eyes were wet.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The guests were soon led into another room, in which a sumptuous repast was spread, and when I left champagne corks were popping, and it was evident that the lately silent company had found their tongues.  Toasts, songs, and speeches were said and sung in honor of the joyful event just consummated --the marriage of this couple which ought to have taken place five years sooner.  A little child had led the sinners back into the path from which through passion and weakness they had strayed.</P>
059.sgm:<P>It was after 9 o'clock one night in the fall of the same year that, hearing a knock at the door, I opened it, and found that my visitor was Edward C--, young man who was working a mining claim on Dragoon Gulch, near town.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"Annie B-- and I intend to get married tonight, and we want you to perform the ceremony," he said, not waiting for ordinary salutations.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Is n't this a strange and sudden affair?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Yes, it is a runaway match.  Annie is under age, and her guardian will not give his consent."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"If that is the case, you will have to go to somebody else.  The law is plain, and I cannot violate it."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"When you know all the facts, you will think differently."</P>
059.sgm:<P>He then proceeded to give me the facts in the case, which, briefly told, were these: He and Annie B-- loved each other, and had been engaged for several months, with the understanding that they were to be married when she should come of age.  Annie had a few thousand dollars in the hands of her brother-in-law, who was also her legal guardian.  This brother-in-law had a brother, a drunken, gambling, worthless fellow, whom he wished Annie to marry.  She loathed him, and repelled the proposition with indignation and scorn.  The brother and brother-in-law persisted in urging the hateful suit, having, it was thought, fixed a covetous eye on Annie's convenient little patrimony.  Force had even been used, and Annie was deprived of her liberty and locked in her room.  Her repugnance to the fellow increased the more he tried to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"I will never marry him--never!  I will die first!"  Annie had exclaimed in a burst of passion, at the close of a long altercation.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You are a foolish, undutiful girl, and will be made to do it!" was the angry reply of the brother-in-law as he turned the key in the door and closed the interview.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Late that afternoon Annie was on the street with her sister, and meeting her lover, they arranged to be married at once.  She went to the house of a friendly family, while he undertook to get a minister and make other preparations for the event.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"This is the situation," said the expectant bridegroom.  "The only way by which I can get the right to protect Annie is to marry her.  If you will not perform the ceremony, we'll get a justice of the peace to do it.  Annie shall never go back to that house.  We intend to be married this night, come what may!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>I confess I liked his spirit, and my sympathies responded to the appeal made to them.  He seemed to read as much in my face, for he added in an offhand way--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Get your hat and come along.  They are all waiting for you at D--'s."</P>
059.sgm:<P>On reaching the house I found that quite a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>The ceremony finished, the congratulations were hearty, the blushing bride having to stand a regular osculatory fire, according to the custom.  Refreshments were then distributed, and seated on the bed, on chairs, stools, and boxes, drafted for the occasion, the delighted guests gave themselves up to social enjoyment.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"What is that?" exlaimed a dozen voices at once, as the most terrific sounds burst forth all around the house, as if Pandemonium had broken loose.  The bride, whose nerves had already been under high tension all day, fainted, the women screamed, and the children yelled with fright.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"It's only a <HI REND="italics">charivari</HI>
059.sgm: " ( <HI REND="italics">shivaree</HI>
059.sgm:, Anglice), said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>In the meantime the discord raged outside.  It seemed as if every thing that could make a particularly unpleasant sound had been brought into service--tin pans, cracked horns, crippled drums, squeaking whistles, fiddles out of tune, accordions not in accord, bagpipes that seemed to know that they must do their worst--the whole culminating in the notes of a single human voice, the most vile and discordant ever heard.  It was equally impossible not to be angry, and not to laugh.  The bridegroom, an excitable man of Celtic blood, taking the demonstration as an insult, threatened to shoot into the crowd of musicians, but was persuaded to adopt a milder course, namely, to treat.  That was the law in the mines, and it was a bold man who would try to evade it.  The only means of escape was utter secrecy, and somehow or other it is next to impossible to conceal an impending wedding.  It is a sweet secret that the birds of the air will whisper, and it becomes the confidential possession of the entire community.  Opening the door, C-- was greeted by a cheer, the music ceasing for the moment.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Come, boys, let's go to the Placer Hotel and take something," said he, forcing a cheerful tone.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>Three cheers for the bridegroom and bride were proposed and given with a will, and the party filed away in the darkness, their various instruments of discord emitting desultory farewell notes, the last heard being the tootings of a horn that seemed to possess a sort of ventriloquial quality, sounding as if it were blown under ground.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The brother-in-law made no opposition to the wedding.  Public opinion was too clearly against him.  All went smoothly with the young married couple.  It was a love-match, and they were content in their little one-roomed cottage at the foot of the hill.  When I last heard from them they were living near the same spot, poor but happy, with a family of eleven children, ranging from a fairhaired girl of nineteen, the counterpart of Annie B-- in 1856, to a chubby little Californian of three summers, who bears the image and takes the name of his father.</P>
059.sgm:<P>While busily engaged one day in mailing the weekly issue of the <HI REND="italics">Pacific Methodist</HI>
059.sgm:, at the office near the corner of Montgomery and Jackson streets, San Francisco, a dusty, unshaved man with a slouched hat came into the room.  His manner was sheepish and awkward, and my first impression was that he wanted to borrow money.  There is a peculiar manner about habitual borrowers which is readily recognized after some experience <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"Do you know anybody about here that can marry folks?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>I answered in the affirmative.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"May be you <HI REND="italics">mought</HI>
059.sgm:<P>I told him I thought I "mought," being a minister of the gospel.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Well, come right along with me.  The woman is waiting at the hotel, and there's no time to lose--the boat leaves at 2 o'clock."</P>
059.sgm:<P>Seeing me making some adjustment of a disordered neck-tie, he said impatiently--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Do n't wait to fix up--I tell you the boat leaves at 2 o'clock!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>I followed him to the Tremont House, and as we entered the parlor he said--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Git up, old lady; that thing can be put through now"--addressing a very stout, middle-aged woman with a frowzy head, sitting near a window.</P>
059.sgm:<P>The lady addressed in this off-hand way rose to her feet and took her place by the side of the not very bridegroomish gentleman who had been my conductor.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Do you not want any witnesses?" I asked.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>"We haven't time to wait for witnesses--the boat will leave at 2 o'clock," said the man.  "Go on with your ceremony."</P>
059.sgm:<P>I began the ceremony, she looking triumphant and defiant, and he subdued and despondent.  There were two children in the room--a freckled-faced boy and a girl, the boy <HI REND="italics">minus</HI>
059.sgm:<P>"What do you charge for that?" said the bridegroom, as I concluded the ceremony.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I made some conventional remark about "the pleasure of the occasion being an ample compensation," or words to that effect.  In the meantime he had with some difficulty untied a well-worn buckskin purse, from which he took a ten-dollar goldpiece which he tendered me with the remark--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Will that do?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>I took it.  It would not have been respectful to decline.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You may go now," said the newly-married man; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
059.sgm:<P>The whole transaction did not take more than ten minutes.  I trust the bridal party did not miss that boat.  The one-eyed boy gave me a malevolent look as I started down the stairs.</P>
059.sgm:<P>One day in 1869 a well-known public man came to my office and asked a private interview.  Taking him into the rear room, and closing the door, I invited him to unfold his errand.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"There is trouble between my wife and me.  The fact is, I have done wrong, and she has found it out.  She is a good woman, but very peculiar, and if something is not done speedily I fear she will become deranged.  I am uneasy about her now.  She says nothing will satisfy her but for me to solemnly repeat, in the presence of a minister of the gospel, the marriage vows I have violated.  I am willing to do any thing I can to satisfy her.  Will you name an hour for us to call at your office for the purpose of being remarried?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>"The suggestion is such a strange one that I must have time to consider it.  Come back at four this afternoon, and I will give you an answer."</P>
059.sgm:<P>I laid the case before a shrewd lawyer of my acquaintance, and asked his advice.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Marry them, of course," said he at once.  "The ceremony has no legal quality whatever, but it is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>The gentleman returned at four, and I told him to come at ten the next morning, promising to perform the wished-for ceremony.</P>
059.sgm:<P>They came punctual to the minute.  Excluding a number of visitors, I locked my office door on the inside, and gave my attention to the strange business before me.  They both began to weep as I began solemnly to read the marriage service.  What tender recollections of earlier and happier days crowded upon their minds, I know not.  Their emotion increased, and they were sobbing in each other's arms when I had finished.  She was radiant through her tears, while he looked like a repenting sinner who had received absolution.  The form for the celebration of the office of holy matrimony, as laid down in the Ritual of my Church, never sounded so exquisitely beautiful, or seemed so impressive before; and when he put a twenty-dollar piece in my hand, and departed, I thought remarriage might be wise and proper under some circumstances.</P>
059.sgm:<P>I had the pleasure of officiating at the nuptials of a goodly number of my colored friends in San Francisco, from about 1857 to 1861.  One of these occasions impressed me particularly.  A venerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:black man, who was a deacon in the colored Baptist Church on Dupont street, called at my office with a message requesting me to visit a certain number on Sacramento street, at a given hour, for the purpose of uniting his brother and a colored lady in marriage.  Remembering the crude old English couplet which says that <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>When a wedding's in the case,<LB>All else must give place,<LB></HI>
059.sgm:<P>I did not fail to be on time.  The company were assembled in the large basement-room of a substantial brick house.  A dozen or fifteen colored people were present, and several white ladies had gathered in the hall to witness the important ceremony.  When the bridegroom and bride presented themselves, I was struck with their appearance  The bridegroom was a little old negro, not less than seventy years old, with very crooked legs, short forehead, and eyes scarcely larger than a pea, with a weird, "varmint-like" face, showing that it would not take many removes to trace his pedigree back to Guinea.  The bride was a tall and well-formed young black woman, scarcely twenty years old, whose hair (or wool) was elaborately carded and arranged, and who wore a white dress, with a large red rose in her bosom.  The aged bridegroom hardly reached her shoulders as she stood by him in gorgeous array.  They made a ludicrous couple, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"I ain't scared-- <HI REND="italics">Ise been 'long here befo</HI>
059.sgm:<P>It was the first time I ever broke down in a serious service.  We all laughed, the bridegroom and bride both joining in heartily, and the tittering did not subside until the ceremony was ended.  Evidently the old sinner had a history.  How often he had been married--after a fashion--it would have been hazardous to guess.  No doubt he had been there before.</P>
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059.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>NORTH BEACH, SAN FRANCISCO.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P>NORTH BEACH, in its gentle mood, is as quiet as a Quaker maiden, and as lovely; but when fretted by the rude sea-wind, it is like a virago in her tantrums.  I have looked upon it at the close of a bright, clear day, fascinated by the changing glories of a gorgeous sunset.  The still ships seemed asleep upon the placid waters.  Above the Golden Gate hung a drapery of burning clouds, almost too bright for the naked eye.  Tamalpais,<ANCHOR ID="n25-1">*</ANCHOR>
059.sgm: towering above the Marin hills, wrapped in his evening robe of royal purple, sat like a king on his throne.  The islands in sight, sunlit and calm, seemed to be dreaming in the soft embrace of the blue waters.  Above the golden <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:glow of the breezy Contra Costa hills the sky blushed rosy red, as if conscious of its own charms.  As the sun sank into the Pacific in a blaze of splendor, the bugle of Fort Alcatraz, pealing over the waters, told that the day was done.  And then the scene gradually changed.  The cloud-fires that blazed above the Gate of Gold died out, the purple of Tamalpais deepened into blackness, in the thickening twilight the sunlit islands faded from sight, the rose-tinted sky turned into sober gray, the stars came out one by one, and a night of beauty followed a day of brightness.  Many a time, from my bay-window, on such evenings as this, have I seen young men and maidens walking side by side, or hand in hand, along the beach, whispering words that only the sea might hear, and uttering vows that only the stars might witness.  Here I have seen the weary man of business linger as if he were loth to leave a scene so quiet, and go back to the din, and rush, and worry of the city.  And pale, sad-faced women in black have come alone to weep by the sea-side, and have gone back with the traces of fresh tears upon their cheeks, and the light of renewed hope in their eyes.  On bright mornings, new-married couples, climbing the hill whose western declivity overlooks the Golden Gate and the vast Pacific, have felt that the immensity and calm of the ocean were emblematic of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-1">A lofty peak of the coast-range that shoots its bare summit high into the sky north of the bay, and within a few miles of the Golden Gate, from which the view is one of marvelous scope and surpassing beauty.</NOTE>
059.sgm:<P>North Beach, in its stormy mood, had also its fascination for the storm-tossed, and the desolate, and the despairing.  It was hither that Ralston hurried on that fatal day when the crash came.  His death was like his life.  He was a strong swimmer, but he ventured too far.  The wind sweeping in through the Golden Gate chill and angry, the white-capped waters of the bay in wild unrest, the gathering fog darkening the sky, were all symbolic of the days of struggle and the nights of anguish that preceded the final tragedy.  He died struggling.  If he had come out of that wrestle with the sea alive, he would have been on his feet to-day, for he embodied in himself the energy, the dash, the invincible courage of the true Californian.  Ralston did not commit suicide.  He was not a man of that type.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Sitting in my bay-window above the beach one stormy evening about sunset, my attention was arrested by the movements of a man sitting on the rocks in the edge of the water, where the spray <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"Why didn't you let me alone?  If you had, it would all have been over now.  Am I doomed to live against my will?  The very sea refuses me a grave!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>I made some remark, with the view to calm and encourage him.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"You mean well, and I ought to thank you, sir; but you have done me an ill turn.  I want to die, and get out of it all."</P>
059.sgm:<P>"What is the trouble, my friend?" I inquired, the question prompted by pity and curiosity.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>He turned suddenly, stared at me a moment, and said fiercely--</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Never mind what my trouble is.  It is what death only can relieve.  Why didn't you let me die?"</P>
059.sgm:<P>He was a heavy-set man of fifty, with iron-gray whiskers, a good, open, intelligent face, and neatly dressed in a suit of gray cloth.</P>
059.sgm:<P>He reeled as he spoke, and would have fallen had he not been supported by kind hands.  He was taken to the hospital, where the bullet was extracted from his head, and he got well.  Who he was, and what was his story, was never found out.  He kept his secret.</P>
059.sgm:<P>About sunrise one morning, looking out of my window, I saw a crowd huddled around some object on the beach.  Their subdued behavior suggested a tragedy.  The North Beach rabble, in its ordinary mood, is rather noisy and demonstrative.  The hoodlum reaches his perfection here.  The hoodlum is a young Californian in the intermediate stage between a wharf-rat and a desperado, combining all the bad qualities of both.  He is dishonest, lewd, insolent, and unspeakably vulgar.  He glories in his viciousness, and his swagger is inimitable.  There is but one thing about him that has the semblance of a virtue, and that is his courageous fidelity to his fellow-hoodlums.  He will defend one of his kind to the death in a street-fight, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>It was a man hanging by his neck from the highest tier of a lot of damaged hay-bales that had been unloaded on the beach.  He had come out there in the night, taken a piece of hay-rope, adjusted it to his neck with great skill, fastened it to a topmost bale of hay, and then leaped into eternity.  It was a horrid spectacle.  The man was a Frenchman, who had slept two nights in a recess of the hay-pile.  The popular verdict was, insanity or starvation.  From a look at the ghastly face, and poor, thin frame, with its tattered garments fluttering in the breeze, you might think it was both.  The previous night had been colder than usual; perhaps hanging was to his mind a shorter and easier death than freezing.  Nobody knows--he, too, kept his secret.</P>
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059.sgm:<P>Almost opposite my bay-window was a large rock, which was nearly covered by the tide at high water, and over which the surf broke with great violence when a north wind drove the waters upon the beach.  The North Beach breakers sometimes run so high as to send their spray over the high embankment of Bay street, and their thunder makes sublime music on a stormy night.  One day when the bay was lashed into anger by a strong wind from the north-west, and the surf rolling in heavily, a slender young girl was seen hurrying along the beach with downcast look and a veil over her face.  Without pausing, she waded through the surf and climbed the rock, and lifting her veil for a moment, and disclosing a pale, beautiful face as she cast a look at the sky, she threw herself into the sea, her veil floating away as she sank.  A rush of the waves dashed her body back against the rock, and, as it swayed to and fro, fragments of her dress were visible.  A passing cartman, who had witnessed her wild leap, plunged into the water, and with some difficulty caught the body, and brought it to the shore.</P>
059.sgm:<P>"Poor thing!  She's only a child," said a redfaced, stout woman, who was the mistress of a notorious beer-house on the flat, but whose coarse features were softened into a pitying expression as she looked upon the fair, girlish face, and slender form <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"God pity the darlin'!  She's still alive," said another woman of the same class, as she stooped down and put her hand upon the girl's heart.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Lifting her tenderly in their strong arms, she was carried into a house close at hand, and by the use of proper means brought back to consciousness.  What were her thoughts when she opened her eyes, and in the half-darkened room looked around upon the rough denizens of the flat, I know not.  Her first thought may have been that she had awaked in the world so awfully pictured by the grand and gloomy Florentine.  Hiding her face with her hands, she gave way to an agony of grief.  Her secret was the old story.  Though but a school-girl, she had loved, sinned, and despaired, her weakness and folly culminating in attempted self-murder.  Beyond this no more will be told: I will keep her secret, having reason to hope that the young life which she tried to throw away at North Beach is not wholly blighted.  She is scarcely out of her teens now.</P>
059.sgm:<P>Here a famous gambler, Tom H--, came in the early part of an afternoon, and lying down at the foot of the huge sand-hill above the beach, shot himself through the breast.  A boatman found him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>Above us, on the hill-side, lived a family consisting of the mother, and father, and three children.  One of the children was a bright, active little fellow, five or six years old, who had the quickest foot and merriest laugh of all the little people that were in the habit of gathering on the beach to pick up shells, or play in the moist sand, or toy with the waves as they ended in a fringe of foam at their feet.  On a windy day the little fellow had gone down to the beach, and amused himself by watching the waves as they broke upon the embankment of the new street that was rising out of the sea.  At one point there was a break in the embankment, leaving a passage for the waters that ebbed and flowed with the tide.  A narrow plank was thrown <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>"O God!  My child! my child!"</P>
059.sgm:<P>The spot where the child was drowned was in full view from the house, and the poor mother <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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059.sgm:<P>There is yet another aspect of North Beach that lingers in memory.  I have lain awake during many a long night of bodily pain and mental anguish, listening to the plash of the waves as they broke gently upon the beach just below, and the music of the billows soothed my tortured nerves, and the voice of the mighty sea spoke to my troubled soul, as the voice of Him whose footsteps are upon the great waters, and whose paths are in the seas.  And it was from our cottage at North Beach that we bore to the grave our child of suffering, our Paul, whose twenty summers were all clouded by affliction, but beautiful in goodness, and whose resting-place beside another little grave near San Jose makes us turn many a wistful look toward the sunset.</P>
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059.sgm:<HEAD>ST. HELEN'S AT SUNRISE.</HEAD>
059.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Written on the cars in Russian River Valley, California, at sunrise, February</HI>
059.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">THE shadows of darkness at day-break are flying,<LB>The clouds o'er the valley hang heavy and chill;<LB>The morning-star fades, its pale gleam is dying,<LB>As the day-beams brighten o'er the wood-covered hill.<LB>We swept down the valley as the night-curtain lifted,<LB>And the cold gray of morning spread over the sky,<LB>And the clouds in thick masses the strong wind had drifted<LB>Up the sides of the mountains which towered so nigh.<LB>Lo! a glory supernal!  St. Helen's, snow-covered,<LB>White, silent, and awful, sat high on her throne;<LB>The clouds at her foot, where the storm-angel hovered,<LB>The clear light revealing the sky-piercing cone.<LB>O glory yet greater!  The white, silent mountain,<LB>Transfigured with sunrise, flames out in the light<LB>That beams on its face from its far-distant fountain,<LB>And bathes in full splendor its East-looking height.<LB>My soul, in that moment so rapt and so holy,<LB>Was transfigured with Nature, and felt the deep spell;<LB>My spirit, entranced, bent meekly and lowly<LB>With rapture that only an angel could tell.<LB>When the night-mists of time around me are flying,<LB>When the shadows of death gather round me apace,<LB>O Jesus, my Sun, shine on me when dying,<LB>Transfigure my soul with the light of thy face!</HI>
060.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-060</TITLE>
060.sgm:<TITLE>California sketches; new series.  By O.P. Fitzgerald. With an introduction by Bishop George F. Pierce: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
060.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
060.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
060.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
060.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
060.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
060.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
060.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 00-856</LCCN>
060.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
060.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>14972</COPYRIGHT>
060.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<LB>CALIFORNIA SKETCHES.<LB>NEW SERIES.<LB>BY O. P. FITZGERALD.<LB>WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY BISHOP GEORGE F. PIERCE.  <HI REND="blockindent"><HI REND="italics"><LB>The bearded men in rude attire,<LB>With nerves of steel and hearts of fire,<LB>The women few but fair and sweet,<LB>Like shadowy visions dim and fleet,<LB>Again I see, again I hear,<LB>As down the past I dimly peer,<LB>And muse o'er buried joy and pain,<LB>And tread the hills of youth again.</HI>
060.sgm:<P>SOUTHERN METHODIST PUBLISHING HOUSE,<LB>NASHVILLE, TENN.<LB>1881.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881, by<LB>O. P. FITZGERALD,<LB>in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.</P>
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060.sgm:<HEAD>A WORD.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>ENCORES are usually anticlimaxes.  I never did like them.  Yet here I am again before the public with another book of "CALIFORNIA SKETCHES."  The kind treatment given to the former volume, of which six editions have been printed and sold; the expressed wishes of many friends who have said, Give us another book; and my own impulse, have induced me to venture upon a second appearance.  If much of the song is in the minor key, it had to be so: these Sketches are from real life, and "all lives are tragedies."<HSEP>THE AUTHOR.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Nashville, September, 1881.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>THE first issue of the "California Sketches" was very popular, deservedly so.  The distinguished Author has prepared a Second Series.  In this fact the reading public will rejoice.</P>
060.sgm:<P>In these books we have the romance and <HI REND="italics">prestige</HI>
060.sgm:<P>These Sketches furnish good reading for anybody.  For the young they are charming, full of entertainment, and not wanting in moral instruction.  They will gratify the taste of those who love to read, and, what is more important, beget the appetite for books among the dull and indifferent.  He who can stimulate children and young men and women to read renders a signal service to society at large.  Mental growth depends much upon reading, and the fertilization of the original soil by the habit wisely directed connects vitally with the outcome and harvest of the future.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Dr. Fitzgerald is doing good service in the work already done, and I trust the patronage of the people will encourage him to give us another and another of the same sort.  At my house we all read the "California Sketches" --old and young--and long for more.</P>
060.sgm:<P>G. F. PIERCE.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>DICK<HSEP>7<LB>THE DIGGERS<HSEP>15<LB>THE CALIFORNIA MAD-HOUSE<HSEP>30<LB>SAN QUENTIN<HSEP>41<LB>"CORRALED"<HSEP>51<LB>THE REBLOOMING<HSEP>62<LB>THE EMPEROR NORTON<HSEP>71<LB>CAMILLA CAIN<HSEP>79<LB>LONE MOUNTAIN<HSEP>82<LB>NEWTON<HSEP>92<LB>THE CALIFORNIA POLITICIAN<HSEP>99<LB>OLD MAN LOWRY<HSEP>113<LB>SUICIDE IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>120<LB>FATHER FISHER<HSEP>133<LB>JACK WHITE<HSEP>145<LB>THE RABBI<HSEP>153<LB>MY MINING SPECULATION<HSEP>161<LB>MIKE REESE<HSEP>166<LB>UNCLE NOLAN<HSEP>175<LB>BUFFALO JONES<HSEP>181<LB>TOD ROBINSON<HSEP>189<LB>AH LEE<HSEP>198<LB>THE CLIMATE OF CALIFORNIA<HSEP>204 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:AFTER THE STORM<HSEP>212<LB>BISHOP KAVANAUGH IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>214<LB>SANDERS<HSEP>229<LB>A DAY<HSEP>238<LB>WINTER-BLOSSOMED<HSEP>248<LB>A VIRGINIAN IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>257<LB>AT THE END<HSEP>263</P>
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060.sgm:<HEAD>DICK.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>DICK was a Californian.  We made his acquaintance in Sonora about a month before Christmas, <HI REND="italics">Anno Domini</HI>
060.sgm:<P>At the request of a number of families, the lady who presided in the curious little parsonage near the church on the hill-side had started a school for little girls.  The public schools might do for the boys, but were too mixed for their sisters--so they thought.  Boys could rough it--they were a rough set, any way--but the girls must be raised according to the traditions of the old times and the old homes.  That was the view taken of the matter then, and from that day to this the average California girl has been superior to the average California boy.  The boy gets his bias from the street; the girl, from her mother at home.  The boy plunges into the life that surges around him; the girl only feels the touch of its waves as they break upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:embankments of home.  The boy gets more of the father; the girl gets more of the mother.  This may explain their relative superiority.  The school for girls was started on condition that it should be free, the proposed teacher refusing all compensation.  That part of the arrangement was a failure, for at the end of the first month every little girl brought a handful of money, and laid it on the teacher's desk.  It must have been a concerted matter.  That quiet, unselfish woman had suddenly become a money-maker in spite of herself.  (Use was found for the coin in the course of events.)  The school was opened with a Psalm, a prayer, and a little song in which the sweet voices of the little Jewish, Spanish, German, Irish, and American maidens united heartily.  Dear children! they are scattered now.  Some of them have died, and some of them have met with what is worse than death.  There was one bright Spanish girl, slender, graceful as a willow, with the fresh Castilian blood mantling her cheeks, her bright eyes beaming with mischief and affection.  She was a beautiful child, and her winning ways made her a pet in the little school.  But surrounded as the bright, beautiful girl was, Satan had a mortgage on her from her birth, and her fate was too dark and sad to be told in these pages.  She inherited evil condition, and perhaps evil blood, and her evil life seemed to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Among the children that came to that remarkable academy on the hill was little Mary Kinneth, a thin, delicate child, with mild blue eyes, flaxen hair, a peach complexion, and the blue veins on her temples that are so often the sign of delicacy of organization and the presage of early death.  Mike Kinneth, her father, was a drinking Irishman, a good-hearted fellow when sober, but pugnacious and disposed to beat his wife when drunk.  The poor woman came over to see me one day.  She had been crying, and there was an ugly bruise on her cheek.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Your riverence will excuse me," she said, courtesying, "but I wish you would come over and spake a word to me husband.  Mike's a kind, good craythur except when he is dhrinking, but then he is the very Satan himself."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Did he give you that bruise on your face, Mrs. Kinneth?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yis; he came home last night mad with the whisky, and was breaking ivery thing in the house.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Here the poor woman broke down and cried, hiding her face in her apron.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Little Mary was asleep, and she waked up frightened and crying to see her father in such a way.  Seeing the child seemed to sober him a little, and he stumbled on to the bed, and fell asleep.  He was always kind to the child, dhrunk or sober.  And there is a good heart in him if he will only stay away from the dhrink."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Would he let me talk to him?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yis; we belong to the old Church, but there is no priest here now, and the kindness your lady has shown to little Mary has softened his heart to ye both.  And I think he feels a little sick and ashamed this mornin', and he will listen to kind words now if iver."</P>
060.sgm:<P>I went to see Mike, and found him half-sick and in a penitent mood.  He called me "Father Fitzgerald," and treated me with the utmost politeness and deference.  I talked to him about little Mary, and his warm Irish heart opened to me at once.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"She is a good child, your riverence, and shame on the father that would hurt or disgrace her!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>The tears stood in Mike's eyes as he spoke the words.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>"All the trouble comes from the whisky.  Why not give it up?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"By the help of God I will!" said Mike, grasping my hand with energy.</P>
060.sgm:<P>And he did.  I confess that the result of my visit exceeded my hopes.  Mike kept away from the saloons, worked steadily, little Mary had no lack of new shoes and neat frocks, and the Kinneth family were happy in a humble way.  Mike always seemed glad to see me, and greeted me warmly.</P>
060.sgm:<P>One morning about the last of November there was a knock at the door of the little parsonage.  Opening the door, there stood Mrs. Kinneth with a turkey under her arm.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Christmas will soon be coming, and I've brought ye a turkey for your kindness to little Mary and your good talk to Mike.  He has not touched a dhrop since the blissed day ye spake to him.  Will ye take the turkey, and my thanks wid it?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>The turkey was politely and smilingly accepted, and Mrs. Kinneth went away looking mightily pleased.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I extemporized a little coop for our turkey.  Having but little mechanical ingenuity, it was a difficult job, but it resulted more satisfactorily than did my attempt to make a door for the miniature kitchen attached to the parsonage.  My object was to nail some cross-pieces on some plain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>We named him Dick.  He is the hero of this Sketch.  Dick was intelligent, sociable, and had a good appetite.  He would eat any thing, from a crust of bread to the pieces of candy that the school-girls would give him as they passed.  He became as gentle as a dog, and would answer to his name.  He had the freedom of the town, and went where he pleased, returning at meal-times, and at night to roost on the western end of the kitchen-roof.  He would eat from our hands, looking at us with a sort of human expression in his shiny eyes.  If he were a hundred yards away, all we had to do was to go to the door and call out, "Dick!"</P>
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060.sgm:<P>"Dick!" once or twice, and here he would come, stretching his long legs, and saying, "Oot," "oot," "oot" (is that the way to spell it?).  He got to like going about with me.  He would go with me to the post-office, to the market, and sometimes he would accompany me in a pastoral visit.  Dick was well known and popular.  Even the bad boys of the town did not throw stones at him.  His ruling passion was the love of eating.  He ate between meals.  He ate all that was offered to him.  Dick was a pampered turkey, and made the most of his good luck and popularity.  He was never in low spirits, and never disturbed except when a dog came about him.  He disliked dogs, and seemed to distrust them.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The days rolled by, and Dick was fat and happy.  It was the day before Christmas.  We had asked two bachelors to take Christmas-dinner with us, having room and chairs for just two more persons.  (One of our four chairs was called a stool--it had a bottom and three legs, one of which was a little shaky, and no back.)  There was a constraint upon us both all day.  I knew what was the matter, but said nothing.  About four o'clock in the afternoon Dick's mistress sat down by me, and, after a pause, remarked:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Do you know that to-morrow is Christmas-day?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes, I know it."</P>
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060.sgm:<P>Another pause.  I had nothing to say just then.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Well, if--if--if any thing is to be done about that turkey, it is time it were done."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Do you mean Dick?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes," with a little quiver in her voice.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I understand you--you mean to kill him--poor Dick! the only pet we ever had."</P>
060.sgm:<P>She broke right down at this, and began to cry.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"What is the matter here?" said our kind, energetic neighbor, Mrs. T--, who came in to pay us one of her informal visits.  She was from Philadelphia, and, though a gifted woman, with a wide range of reading and observation of human life, was not a sentimentalist.  She laughed at the weeping mistress of the parsonage, and, going to the back-door, she called out:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Dick!"  "Dick!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>Dick, who was taking the air high up on the hillside, came at the call, making long strides, and sounding his "Oot," "oot," "oot," which was the formula by which he expressed all his emotions, varying only the tone.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Dick, as he stood with outstretched neck and a look of expectation in his honest eyes, was scooped up by our neighbor, and carried off down the hill in the most summary manner.</P>
060.sgm:<P>In about an hour Dick was brought back.  He was dressed.  He was also stuffed.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE DIGGERS.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>THE Digger Indian holds a low place in the scale of humanity.  He is not intelligent; he is not handsome; he is not very brave.  He stands near the foot of his class, and I fear he is not likely to go up any higher.  It is more likely that the places that know him now will soon know him no more, for the reason that he seems readier to adopt the bad white man's whisky and diseases than the good white man's morals and religion.  Ethnologically he has given rise to much conflicting speculation, with which I will not trouble the gentle reader.  He has been in California a long time, and he does not know that he was ever anywhere else.  His pedigree does not trouble him; he is more concerned about getting something to eat.  It is not because he is an agriculturist that he is called a Digger, but because he grabbles for wild roots, and has a general fondness for dirt.  I said he was not handsome, and when we consider his rusty, dark-brown <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>The first Digger I ever saw was the best-looking.  He had picked up a little English, and loafed around the mining-camps picking up a meal where he could get it.  He called himself "Captain Charley," and, like a true native American, was proud of his title.  If it was self-assumed, he was still following the precedent set by a vast host of captains, majors, colonels, and generals, who never wore a uniform or hurt anybody.  He made his appearance at the little parsonage on the hill-side in Sonora one day, and, thrusting his bare head into the door, he said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Me Cappin Charley," tapping his chest complacently as he spoke.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Returning his salutation, I waited for him to speak again.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You got grub--coche carne?" he asked, mixing his Spanish and English.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Some food was given him, which he snatched rather eagerly, and began to eat at once.  It was evident that Captain Charley had not breakfasted that morning.  He was a hungry Indian, and when he got through his meal there was no reserve of rations in the unique repository of dishes and food <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Me take um?" asked Captain Charley, pointing to the treasure he had discovered.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Leave was given, and Captain Charley lost no time in taking possession of the coveted goods.  He chuckled to himself as one article after another was drawn forth from the pile which seemed to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Mucho bueno!"  exclaimed Captain Charley, as he proceeded to array himself in a pair of trousers.  Then a shirt, then a vest, and then a coat, were put on.  And then another, and another, and yet another suit was donned in the same order.  He was fast becoming a "big Indian" indeed.  We looked on and smiled, sympathizing with the evident delight of our visitor in his superabundant wardrobe.  He was in full-dress, and enjoyed it.  But he made a failure at one point--his feet were too large, or were not the right shape, for white men's boots or shoes.  He tried several pairs, but his huge flat foot would not enter them, and finally he threw down the last one tried by him with a Spanish exclamation not fit to be printed in these pages.  That language is a musical one, but its oaths are very harsh in sound.  A battered "stove-pipe" hat was found among the spoils turned over to Captain Charley.  Placing it on his head jauntily, he turned to us, saying, <HI REND="italics">Adios</HI>
060.sgm:, and went strutting down the street, the picture of gratified vanity.  His appearance on Washington Street, the main thoroughfare of the place, thus gorgeously and abundantly arrayed, created a sensation.  It was as good as a "show" to the jolly miners, always ready to be amused.  Captain Charley was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>The next Digger I noticed was of the gentler (but in this case not lovelier) sex.  She was an old squaw, who was in mourning.  The sign of her grief was the black adobe mud spread over her face.  She sat all day motionless and speechless, gazing up into the sky.  Her grief was caused by the death of a child, and her sorrowful look showed that she had a mother's heart.  Poor, degraded creature!  What were her thoughts as she sat there looking so pitifully up into the silent, far-off heavens?  All the livelong day she gazed thus fixedly into the sky, taking no notice of the passers-by, neither speaking, eating, nor drinking.  It was a custom of the tribe, but its peculiar significance is unknown to me.</P>
060.sgm:<P>It was a great night at an adjoining camp when the old chief died.  It was made the occasion of a fearful orgy.  Dry wood and brush were gathered into a huge pile, the body of the dead chief was placed upon it, and the mass set on fire.  As the flames blazed upward with a roar, the Indians, several hundred in number, broke forth into wild wailings and howlings, the shrill soprano of the women rising high above the din, as they marched around the burning pyre.  Fresh fuel was supplied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>The Digger believes in a future life, and in future rewards and punishments.  Good Indians and bad Indians are subjected to the same ordeal at death.  Each one is rewarded according to his deeds.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The disembodied soul comes to a wide, turbid river, whose angry waters rush on to an unknown destination, roaring and foaming.  From high banks on either side of the stream is stretched a pole smooth and small, over which he is required to walk.  Upon the result of this <HI REND="italics">post-mortem</HI>
060.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>The Indian who was in life a mixed character, not all good or bad, but made up of both, starts across the fateful river, gets on very well until he reaches about half-way over, when his head becomes dizzy, and he tumbles into the boiling flood below.  He swims for his life.  (Every Indian on earth can swim, and he does not forget the art in the world of spirits.)  Buffeting the waters, he is carried swiftly down the rushing current, and at last makes the shore, to find a country which, like his former life, is a mixture of good and bad.  Some days are fair, and others are rainy and chilly; flowers and brambles grow together; there are some springs of water, but they are few, and not all cool and sweet; the deer are few, and shy, and lean, and grizzly bears roam the hills and valleys.  This is the limbo of the moderately-wicked Digger.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The very bad Indian, placing his feet upon the attenuated bridge of doom, makes a few steps forward, stumbles, falls into the whirling waters below, and is swept downward with fearful velocity.  At last, with desperate struggles he half swims, and is half washed ashore on the same side from which he started, to find a dreary land where the sun never shines, and the cold rains always pour down from the dark skies, where the water is brackish and foul, where no flowers ever bloom, where leagues may be traversed without seeing a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>The worst Indians of all, at death, are transformed into grizzly bears.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The Digger has a good appetite, and he is not particular about his eating.  He likes grasshoppers, clover, acorns, roots, and fish.  The flesh of a dead mule, horse, cow, or hog, does not come amiss to him--I mean the flesh of such as die natural deaths.  He eats what he can get, and all he can get.  In the grasshopper season he is fat and flourishing.  In the suburbs of Sonora I came one day upon a lot of squaws, who were engaged in catching grasshoppers.  Stretched along in line, armed with thick branches of pine, they threshed the ground in front of them as they advanced, driving the grasshoppers before them in constantly-increasing numbers, until the air was thick with the flying insects.  Their course was directed to a deep gully, or gulch, into which they fell exhausted.  It was astonishing to see with what dexterity the squaws would gather them up and thrust them into a sort of covered basket, made of willow-twigs or tule-grass, while the insects would be trying to escape, but would fall back unable to rise above the sides of the gulch in which they had been entrapped.  The grasshoppers are dried, or cured, for winter use.  A white man who had tried them told <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>When Bishop Soule was in California, in 1853, he paid a visit to a Digger campoody (or village) in the Calaveras hills.  He was profoundly interested, and expressed an ardent desire to be instrumental in the conversion of one of these poor kin.  It was yet early in the morning when the Bishop and his party arrived, and the Diggers were not astir, save here and there a squaw, in primitive array, who slouched lazily toward a spring of water hard by.  But soon the arrival of the visitors was made known, and the the bucks, squaws, and papooses, swarmed forth.  They cast curious looks upon the whole party, but were specially struck with the majestic bearing of the Bishop, as were the passing crowds in London, who stopped in the streets to gaze with admiration upon the great American preacher.  The Digger chief did not conceal his delight.  After looking upon the Bishop fixedly for some moments, he went up to him, and tapping first his own chest and then the Bishop's, he said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Me big man--you big man!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>It was his opinion that two great men had met, and that the occasion was a grand one.  Moralizers to the contrary notwithstanding, greatness is not always lacking in self-consciousness.</P>
060.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"I would like to go into one of their wigwams, or huts, and see how they really live," said the Bishop.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You had better drop that idea," said the guide, a white man who knew more about Digger Indians than was good for his reputation and morals, but who was a good-hearted fellow, always ready to do a friendly turn, and with plenty of time on his hands to do it.  The genius born to live without work will make his way by his wits, whether it be in the lobby at Washington City, or as a hangeron at a Digger camp.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The Bishop insisted on going inside the chief's wigwam, which was a conical structure of long tule-grass, air-tight and weather-proof, with an aperture in front just large enough for a man's body in a crawling attitude.  Sacrificing his dignity, the Bishop went down on all-fours, and then a degree lower, and, following the chief, crawled in.  The air was foul, the smells were strong, and the light was dim.  The chief proceeded to tender to his distinguished guest the hospitalities of the establishment, by offering to share his breakfast with him.  The bill of fare was grasshoppers, with acorns as a side-dish.  The Bishop maintained his dignity as he squatted there in the dirt-- <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
060.sgm: dignity was equal to any test.  He declined the grasshoppers tendered him by the chief, pleading that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:he had already breakfasted, but watched with peculiar sensations the movements of his host, as handful after handful of the crisp and juicy <HI REND="italics">gryllus vulgaris</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"Brother Bristow, I propose that we retire."</P>
060.sgm:<P>They retired, and there is no record that Bishop Soule ever expressed the least desire to repeat his visit to the interior of a Digger Indian's abode.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The whites had many difficulties with the Diggers in the early days.  In most cases I think the whites were chiefly to blame.  It is very hard for the strong to be just to the weak.  The weakest creature, pressed hard, will strike back.  White women and children were massacred in retaliation for outrages committed upon the ignorant Indians by white outlaws.  The there would be a sweeping destruction of Indians by the excited whites, who in those days made rather light of Indian shooting.  The shooting of a "buck" was about the same thing, whether it was a male Digger or a deer.</P>
060.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"There is not much fight in a Digger unless he's got the dead-wood on you, and then he'll make it rough for you.  But these Injuns are of no use, and I'd about as soon shoot one of them as a coyote" (ki-o-te).</P>
060.sgm:<P>The speaker was a very red-faced, sandy-haired man, with blood-shot blue eyes, whom I met on his return to the Humboldt country after a visit to San Francisco.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Did you ever shoot an Indian?"  I asked.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I first went up into the Eel River country in '46," he answered.  "They give us a lot of trouble in them days.  They would steal cattle, and our boys would shoot.  But we've never had much difficulty with them since the big fight we had with them in 1849.  A good deal of devilment had been goin' on all roun', and some had been killed on both sides.  The Injuns killed two women on a ranch in the valley, and then we sot in just to wipe 'em out.  Their camp was in a bend of the river, near the head of the valley, with a deep slough on the right flank.  There was about sixty of us, and Dave--was our captain.  He was a hard rider, a dead shot, and not very tender-hearted.  The boys sorter liked him, but kep' a sharp eye on him, knowin' he was so quick and handy with a pistol.  Our plan was to git to their camp and fall on em at daybreak, but the sun was risin' just as we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"`Out with your pistols!  pitch in, and give 'em the hot lead!'</P>
060.sgm:<P>"In we galloped at full speed, and as the Injuns come out to see what was up, we let 'em have it.  We shot forty bucks--about a dozen got away by swimmin' the river."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Were any of the women killed?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"A few were knocked over.  You can't be particular when you are in a hurry; and a squaw, when her blood is up, will fight equal to a buck."</P>
060.sgm:<P>The fellow spoke with evident pride, feeling that he was detailing a heroic affair, having no idea that he had done any thing wrong in merely killing "bucks."  I noticed that this same man was very kind to an old lady who took the stage for Bloomfield--helping her into the vehicle, and looking after her baggage.  When we parted, I did not care to take the hand that had held a pistol that morning when the Digger camp was "wiped out."</P>
060.sgm:<P>The scattered remnants of the Digger tribes were gathered into a reservation in Round Valley, Mendocino county, north of the Bay of San Francisco, and were there taught a mild form of agricultural life, and put under the care of Government agents, contractors, and soldiers, with about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>There is one thing a Digger cannot bear, and that is the comforts and luxuries of civilized life.  A number of my friends, who had taken Digger children to raise, found that as they approached maturity they fell into a decline and died, in most cases of some pulmonary affection.  The only way to save them was to let them rough it, avoiding warm bed-rooms and too much clothing.  A Digger girl belonged to my church at Santa Rosa, and was a gentle, kind-hearted, grateful creature.  She was a domestic in the family of Colonel H--.  In that pleasant Christian household she developed into a pretty fair specimen of brunette young <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>The Digger seems to be doomed.  Civilization kills him; and if he sticks to his savagery, he will go down before the bullets, whisky, and vices of his white fellow-sinners.</P>
060.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE CALIFORNIA MAD-HOUSE.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>ON my first visit to the State Insane Asylum, at Stockton, I was struck by the beauty of a boy of some seven or eight years, who was moving about the grounds clad in a strait-jacket.  In reply to my inquiries, the resident physician told me his history:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"About a year ago he was on his way to California with the family to which he belonged.  He was a general pet among the passengers on the steamer.  Handsome, confiding, and overflowing with boyish spirits, everybody had a smile and a kind word for the winning little fellow.  Even the rough sailors would pause a moment to pat his curly head as they passed.  One day a sailor, yielding to a playful impulse in passing, caught up the boy in his arms, crying:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"`I am going to throw you into the sea!'</P>
060.sgm:<P>"The child gave one scream of terror, and went into convulsions.  When the paroxysm subsided, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"`Tommy, here is your mother--don't you know me?'</P>
060.sgm:<P>"The child gave no sign of recognition.  He never knew his poor mother again.  He was literally frightened out of his senses.  The mother's anguish was terrible.  The remorse of the sailor for his thoughtless freak was so great that it in some degree disarmed the indignation of the passengers and crew.  The child had learned to read, and had made rapid progress in the studies suited to his age, but all was swept away by the cruel blow.  He was unable to utter a word intelligently.  Since he has been here, there have been signs of returning mental consciousness, and we have begun with him as with an infant.  He knows and can call his own name, and is now learning the alphabet."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"How is his health?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"His health is pretty good, except that he has occasional convulsive attacks that can only be controlled by the use of powerful opiates."</P>
060.sgm:<P>I was glad to learn, on a visit made two years later, that the unfortunate boy had died.</P>
060.sgm:<P>This child was murdered by a fool.  The fools <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"There is a lady here whom I wish you would talk to.  She belongs to one of the most respectable families in San Francisco, is cultivated, refined, and has been the center of a large and loving circle.  Her monomania is spiritual despair.  She thinks she has committed the unpardonable sin.  There she is now.  I will introduce you to her.  Talk with her, and comfort her if you can."</P>
060.sgm:<P>She was a tall, well-formed woman in black, with all the marks of refinement in her dress and bearing.  She was walking the floor to and fro with rapid steps, wringing her hands, and moaning piteously.  Indescribable anguish was in her face--it was a <HI REND="italics">hopeless</HI>
060.sgm: face.  It haunted my thoughts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>There is a sacredness about such an interview that inclines me to veil its details.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I am willing to talk with you, sir, and appreciate your motive, but I understand my situation.  I have committed the unpardonable sin, and I know there is no hope for me."</P>
060.sgm:<P>With the earnestness excited by intense sympathy, I combated her conclusion, and felt certain that I could make her see and feel that she had given way to an illusion.  She listened respectfully to all I had to say, and then said again:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I know my situation.  I denied my Saviour after all his goodness to me, and he has left me forever."</P>
060.sgm:<P>There was the frozen calmness of utter despair in look and tone.  I left her as I found her.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I will introduce you to another woman, the opposite of the poor lady you have just seen.  She thinks she is a queen, and is perfectly harmless.  You must be careful to humor her illusion.  There she is--let me present you."</P>
060.sgm:<P>She was a woman of immense size, enormously fat, with broad red face, and a self-satisfied smirk, dressed in some sort of flaming scarlet stuff, profusely tinseled all over, making a gorgeously <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"How do you like my dress?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>It was not the first time that royalty had shown itself not above the little weakness of human nature.  On being told that her apparel was indeed magnificent, she was much pleased, and drew herself up proudly, and was a picture of ecstatic vanity.  Are the real queens as happy?  When they lay aside their royal robes for their graveclothes, will not the pageantry which was the glory of their lives seem as vain as that of this tinseled queen of the mad-house?  Where is happiness, after all?  Is it in the circumstances, the external conditions? or, is it in the mind?  Such were the thoughts passing through my mind, when a man approached with a violin.  Every eye brightened, and the queen seemed to thrill with pleasure in every nerve.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"This is the only way we can get some of them to take any exercise.  The music rouses them, and they will dance as long as they are permitted to do so."</P>
060.sgm:<P>The fiddler struck up a lively tune, and the queen, with marvelous lightness of step and ogling glances, ambled up to a tall, raw-boned Methodist preacher, who had come with me, and invited him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>During the session of the Annual Conference at Stockton, in 1859 or 1860, the resident physician invited me to preach to the inmates of the Asylum on Sunday afternoon.  The novelty of the service, which was announced in the daily papers, attracted a large number of visitors, among them the greater part of the preachers.  The day was one of those bright, clear, beautiful October days, peculiar to California, that make you think of heaven.  I stood on the steps, and the hundreds of men and women stood below me, with their upturned faces.  Among them were old men crushed by sorrow, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:old men ruined by vice; aged women with faces that seemed to plead for pity, women that made you shrink from their unwomanly gaze; lion-like young men, made for heroes but caught in the devil's trap and changed into beast; and boys whose looks showed that sin had already stamped them with its foul insignia, and burned into their souls the shame which is to be one of the elements of its eternal punishment.  A less impressible man than I would have felt moved at the sight of that throng of bruised and broken creatures.  A hymn was read, and when Burnet, Kelsay, Neal, and others of the preachers, struck up an old tune, voice after voice joined in the melody until it swelled into a mighty volume of sacred song.  I noticed that the faces of many were wet with tears, and there was an indescribable pathos in their voices.  The pitying God, amid the rapturous halleluiahs of the heavenly hosts, bent to listen to the music of these broken harps.  This text was announced, <HI REND="italics">My peace I give unto you</HI>
060.sgm:<P>Among those standing nearest to me was "Old Kelley," a noted patient, whose monomania was the notion that he was a millionaire, and who spent most of his time in drawing checks on imaginary deposits for vast sums of money.  I held one of his checks for a round million, but it has never yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"That's Daniel Webster!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>I don't mind a judicious "Amen," but this put me out a little.  I resumed my remarks, and was getting another good start, when he again broke in enthusiastically:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Henry Clay!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>The preachers standing around me smiled--I think I heard one or two of them titter.  I could not take my eyes from Kelley, who stood with open mouth and beaming countenance, waiting for me to go on.  He held me with an evil fascination.  I did go on in a louder voice, and in a sort of desperation; but again my delighted hearer exclaimed:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Calhoun!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Old Kelley" spoiled that sermon, though he meant kindly.  He died not long afterward, gloating over his fancied millions to the last.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"If you have steady nerves, come with me and I will show you the worst case we have--a woman half tigress, and half devil."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Ascending a stair-way, I was led to an angle of the building assigned to the patients whose violence required them to be kept in close confinement.</P>
060.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Hark! don't you hear her?  She is in one of her paroxysms now."</P>
060.sgm:<P>The sounds that issued from one of the cells were like nothing I had ever heard before.  They were a series of unearthly, fiendish shrieks, intermingled with furious imprecations, as of a lost spirit in an ecstasy of rage and fear.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The face that glared upon me through the iron grating was hideous, horrible.  It was that of a woman, or of what had been a woman, but was now a wreck out of which evil passion had stamped all that was womanly or human.  I involuntarily shrunk back as I met the glare of those fiery eyes, and caught the sound of words that made me shudder.  I never suspected myself of being a coward, but I felt glad that the iron bars of the cell against which she dashed herself were strong.  I had read of Furies--one was now before me.  The bloated, gin-inflamed face, the fiery-red, wicked eyes, the swinish chin, the tangled coarse hair falling around her like writhing snakes, the tiger-like clutch of her dirty fingers, the horrible words--the picture was sickening, disgust for the time almost extinguishing pity.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"She was the keeper of a beer-saloon in San Francisco, and led a life of drunkenness and licentiousness until she broke down, and she was brought here."</P>
060.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Is there any hope of her restoration?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I fear not--nothing short of a miracle can re-tune an instrument so fearfully broken and jangled."</P>
060.sgm:<P>I thought of her out of whom were cast the seven devils, and of Him who came to seek and to save the lost, and resisting the impulse that prompted me to hurry away from the sight and hearing of this lost woman, I tried to talk with her, but had to retire at last amid a volley of such language as I hope never to hear from a woman's lips again.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Listen!  Did you ever hear a sweeter voice than that?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>I had heard the voice before, and thrilled under its power.  It was a female voice of wonderful richness and volume, with a touch of something in it that moved you strangely--a sort of intensity that set your pulses to beating faster, while it entranced you.  The whole of the spacious grounds were flooded with the melody, and the passing teamsters on the public highway would pause and listen with wonder and delight.  The singer was a fair young girl, with dark auburn hair, large brown eyes, that were at times dreamy and sad, and then again lit up with excitement, as her moods changed from sad to gay.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"She will sit silent for hours gazing listlessly out of the window, and then all at once break forth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:into a burst of song so sweet and thrilling that the other patients gather near her and listen in rapt silence and delight.  Sometimes at a dead hour of the night her voice is heard, and then it seems that she is under a special <HI REND="italics">afflatus</HI>
060.sgm:<P>The shock caused by the sudden death of her betrothed lover overthrew her reason, and blighted her life.  By the mercy of God, the love of music and the gift of song survived the wreck of love and of reason.  This girl's voice, pealing forth upon the still summer evening air, is mingled with my last recollection of Stockton and its refuge for the doubly miserable who are doomed to death in life.</P>
060.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SAN QUENTIN.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>"I WANT you to go with me over to San Quentin next Thursday, and preach a thanksgiving-sermon to the poor fellows in the State-prison."</P>
060.sgm:<P>On the appointed morning, I met our party at the Vallejo-street wharf, and we were soon steaming on our way.  Passing under the guns of Fort Alcatraz, past Angel Island--why so called I know not, as in early days it was inhabited not by angels but goats only--all of us felt the exhilaration of the California sunshine, and the bracing November air, as we stood upon the guards, watching the play of the lazy-looking porpoises, that seemed to roll along, keeping up with the swift motion of the boat in such a leisurely way.  The porpoise is a deceiver.  As he rolls up to the surface of the water, in his lumbering way, he looks as if he were a huge lump of unwieldy awkwardness, floating at random and almost helpless; but when you come to know him better, you find that he is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>At San Quentin nature is at her best, and man at his worst.  Against the rocky shore the waters of the bay break in gentle plashings when the winds are quiet.  When the gales from the southwest sweep through the Golden Gate, and set the white caps to dancing to their wild music, the waves rise high, and dash upon the dripping stones with a hoarse roar, as of anger.  Beginning a few hundreds of yards from the water's edge, the hills slope up, and up, and up, until they touch the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>The gate is opened for us, and we enter the prison-walls.  It is a holiday, and the day is fair and balmy; but the chill and sadness cannot be shaken off, as we look around us.  The sunshine seems almost to be a mockery in this place where fellow-men are caged and guarded like wild beasts, and skulk about with shaved heads, clad in the striped uniform of infamy.  Merciful God! is this what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>Seated upon the platform with the prison officials and visitors, I watched my strange auditors as they came in.  There were one thousand of them.  Their faces were a curious study.  Most of them were bad faces.  Beast and devil were printed on them.  Thick necks, heavy back-heads, and low, square foreheads, were the prevalent types.  The least repulsive were those who looked as if they were all animal, creatures of instinct and appetite, good-natured and stupid; the most repulsive were those whose eyes had a gleam of mingled sensuality and ferocity.  But some of these faces that met my gaze were startling--they seemed so out of place.  One old man with gray hair, pale, sad face, and clear blue eyes, might have passed, in other garb and in other company, for an honored member of the Society of Friends.  He had killed a man in a mountain county.  If he was indeed a murderer at heart, nature had given him the wrong imprint.  My attention was struck by a smooth-faced, handsome young fellow, scarcely of age, who looked as little like a convict as anybody on that platform.  He was in for burglary, and had a very bad record.  Some came in half laughing, as if they thought the whole affair more a joke than any thing else.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:Mexicans, of whom there was quite a number, were sullen and scowling.  There is gloom in the Spanish blood.  The irrepressible good nature of several ruddy-faced Irishmen broke out in sly merriment.  As the service began, the discipline of the prison showed itself in the quiet that instantly prevailed; but only a few, who joined in the singing, seemed to feel the slightest interest in it.  Their eyes were wandering, and their faces were vacant.  They had the look of men who had come to be talked at and patronized, and who were used to it.  The prayer that was offered was not calculated to banish such a feeling--it was dry and cold.  I stood up to begin the sermon.  Never before had I realized so fully that God's message was to lost men, and for lost men.  A mighty tide of pity rushed in upon my soul as I looked down into the faces of my hearers.  My eyes filled, and my heart melted within me.  I could not speak until after a pause, and only then by great effort.  There was a deep silence, and every face was lifted to mine as I announced the text.  God had touched my heart and theirs at the start.  I read the words slowly:  <HI REND="italics">God hath not appointed us to wrath, but to obtain salvation by our Lord Jesus Christ</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"My fellow-men, I come to you to-day with a message from my Father, and your Father in heaven.  It is a message of hope.  God help me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>An unexpected dramatic effect followed these words.  The heads of many of the convicts fell forward on their breasts, as if struck with sudden paralysis.  They were the men who were in for life, and the horror of it overcame them.  The silence was broken by sobbings all over the room.  The officers and visitors on the platform were weeping.  The angel of pity hovered over the place, and the glow of human sympathy had melted those stony hearts.  A thousand strong men were thrilled with the touch of sympathy, and once more the sacred fountain of tears was unsealed.  These convicts were men, after all, and deep down under the rubbish of their natures there was still burning the spark of a humanity not yet extinct.  It was wonderful to see the softened expression of their faces.  Yes, they were men, after all, responding to the voice of sympathy, which had been but too strange to many of them all their evil lives.  Many of them had inherited hard conditions; they were literally conceived in sin and born in iniquity; they grew up in the midst of vice.  For them pure and holy lives were a moral impossibility.  Evil with them was hereditary, organic, and the result of association; it poisoned their blood at the start, and stamped itself on their features from their cradles.  Human law, in dealing with these victims of evil <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"I do not try to disguise from you, or from myself the fact that for this life your outlook is not bright.  But I come to you this day with a message of hope from God our Father.  He hath not appointed you to wrath.  He loves all his children.  He sent his Son to die for them.  Jesus trod the paths of pain, and drained the cup of sorrow.  He died as a malefactor, for malefactors.  He died for me.  He died for each one of you.  If I knew the most broken, the most desolate-hearted, despairing man before me, who feels that he is scorned of men and forsaken of God, I would go to where he sits and put my hand on his head, and tell him that God hath not appointed him to wrath, but to obtain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>As the speaker sunk into his seat, there was a silence that was almost painful for a few moments.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"CORRALED."</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>"SO you were <HI REND="italics">corraled</HI>
060.sgm:<P>This was the remark of a friend whom I met in the streets of Stockton the morning after my adventure.  I knew what the expression meant as applied to cattle, but I had never heard it before in reference to a human being.  Yes, I had been <HI REND="italics">corraled</HI>
060.sgm:<P>It was in the old days, before there were any railroads in California.  With a wiry, clean-limbed pinto horse, I undertook to drive from Sacramento City to Stockton one day.  It was in the winter season, and the clouds were sweeping up from the south-west, the snow-crested Sierras hidden from sight by dense masses of vapor boiling at their bases and massed against their sides.  The roads were heavy from the effects of previous rains, and the plucky little pinto sweated as he pulled through the long stretches of black adobe mud.  A cold wind struck me in the face, and the ride was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>Toward night a cold rain began to fall, driving in my face with the head-wind.  Still many a long mile lay between me and Stockton.  Dark came on, and it was dark indeed.  The outline of the horse I was driving could not be seen, and the flat country through which I was driving was a great black sea of night.  I trusted to the instinct of the horse, and moved on.  The bells of a wagon-team meeting me fell upon my ear.  I called out,</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Halloo there!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"What's the matter?" answered a heavy voice through the darkness.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Am I in the road to Stockton, and can I get there to-night?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You are in the road, but you will never find your way such a night as this.  It is ten good miles from here; you have several bridges to cross--you had better stop at the first house you come to, about half a mile ahead.  I am going to strike camp myself."</P>
060.sgm:<P>I thanked my adviser, and went on, hearing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"I am belated on my way to Stockton, and am cold, and tired, and hungry.  Can I get shelter with you for the night?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You may try it, if you want to," answered the unmusical voice abruptly.</P>
060.sgm:<P>In a few moments a man appeared to take the horse, and taking my satchel in hand, I went into the house.  The first thing that struck my attention on entering the room was a big log-fire, which I was glad to see, for I was wet and very cold.  Taking a chair in the corner, I looked around.  The scene that presented itself was not rea&uml;ssuring.  The main feature of the room was a bar, with an ample supply of barrels, demijohns, bottles, tumblers, and all the <HI REND="italics">et c&oelig;teras</HI>
060.sgm:.  Behind the counter stood the proprietor, a burly fellow with a buffalo-neck, fair skin and blue eyes, with a frightful scar across his left under-jaw and neck; his shirt-collar was open, exposing a huge chest, and his sleeves were rolled up above the elbows.  I noticed also that one of his hands was minus all the fingers but the half of one--the result probably of some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Blast it, Dick, <HI REND="italics">don't cuss so loud</HI>
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060.sgm:<P>There was some potency in "the cloth" even there.  How he knew my calling I do not know.  The remark directed particular attention to me, and I became unpleasantly conspicuous.  Scowling glances were bent upon me by two or three of the ruffians, and one fellow made a profane remark not at all complimentary to my vocation--whereat there was some coarse laughter.  In the meantime I was conscious of being very hungry.  My hunger, like that of a boy, is a very positive thing--at least it was very much so in those days.  Glancing toward the maimed and scarred giant who stood behind the bar, I found he was gazing at me with a fixed expression.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Can I get something to eat?  I am very hungry, sir," I said in my blandest tones.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes, we've plenty of cold goose, and may be Pete can pick up something else for you if he is sober and in a good humor.  Come this way."</P>
060.sgm:<P>I followed him through a narrow passage-way, which led to a long, low-ceiled room, along nearly the whole lenght of which was stretched a table, around which were placed rough stools for the rough men about the place.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Pete, the cook, came in, and the head of the house turned me over to him, and returned to his duties behind the bar.  From the noise of the uproar going on, his presence was doubtless needed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Are you a preacher?" he asked.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I thought so," he added, after getting my answer to his question.  "Of what persuasion are you?" he further inquired.</P>
060.sgm:<P>When I told him I was a Methodist, he said quickly and with some warmth:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I was sure of it.  This is a rough place for a man of your calling.  Would you like some eggs?  we've plenty on hand.  And may be you would like a cup of coffee," he added, with increasing hospitality.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I took the eggs, but declined the coffee, not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I used to be a Methodist myself," said Pete, with a sort of choking in his throat, "but bad luck and bad company have brought me down to this.  I have a family in Iowa, a wife and four children.  I guess they think I'm dead, and sometimes I wish I was."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Pete stood by my chair, actually crying.  The sight of a Methodist preacher brought up old times.  He told me his story.  He had come to California hoping to make a fortune in a hurry, but had only ill luck from the start.  His prospectings were always failures, his partners cheated him, his health broke down, his courage gave way, and--he faltered a little, and then spoke it out--he took to whisky, and then the worst came.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I have come down to this--cooking for a lot of roughs at five dollars a week, and all the whisky I want.  It would have been better for me if I had died when I was in the hospital at San Andreas."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Poor Pete! he had indeed touched bottom.  But he had a heart and a conscience still, and my own heart warmed toward my poor backslidden brother.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You are not a lost man yet.  You are worth a thousand dead men.  You can get out of this, and you must.  You must act the part of a brave man, and not be any longer a coward.  Bad luck and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I know all that, Elder.  There is no better little woman on earth than my wife"--Pete choked up again.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You write to her this very night, and go back to her and your children just as soon as you can get the money to pay your way.  Act the man, and all will come right yet.  I have writing-materials here in my satchel--pen, ink, paper, envelopes, stamps, every thing; I am an editor, and go fixed up for writing."</P>
060.sgm:<P>The letter was written, I acting as Pete's amanuensis, he pleading that he was a poor scribe at best, and that his nerves were too unsteady for such work.  Taking my advice, he made a clean breast of the whole matter, throwing himself on the forgiveness of the wife whom he had so shamefully neglected, and promising by the help of God to make all the amends possible in time to come.  The letter was duly directed, sealed, and stamped, and Pete looked as if a great weight had been lifted from his soul.  He had made me a fire in the little stove, saying it was better than the barroom; in which opinion I was fully agreed.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"There is no place for you to sleep to-night <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:with out <HI REND="italics">corraling</HI>
060.sgm:<P>I shuddered at the prospect--fourteen bunks in one small room, and those whisky-sodden, loudcursing card-players to be my room-mates for the night!</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I prefer sitting here by the stove all night," I said; I can employ most of the time writing, if I can have a light."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Pete thought a moment, looked grave, and then said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"That won't do, Elder; those fellows would take offense, and make trouble.  Several of them are out now goose-hunting; they will be coming in at all hours from now till day-break, and it won't do for them to find you sitting up here alone.  The best thing for you to do is to go in and take one of those bunks; you need n't take off any thing but your coat and boots, and"--here he lowered his voice, looking about him as he spoke--" <HI REND="italics">if you have any money about, keep it next to your body</HI>
060.sgm:<P>The last words were spoken with peculiar emphasis.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Taking the advice given me, I took up my baggage and followed Pete to the room where I was to spend the night.  Ugh! it was dreadful.  The single window in the room was nailed down, and the air was close and foul.  The bunks were damp <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:and dirty beyond belief, grimed with foulness, and reeking with ill odors.  This was being <HI REND="italics">corraled</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"I can't stand this--I will go back to the kitchen."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You had better follow my advice, Elder," said he very gravely.  "I know things about here better than you do.  It's rough, but you had better stand it."</P>
060.sgm:<P>And I did; being <HI REND="italics">corraled</HI>
060.sgm:, I had to stand it.  That fearful night!  The drunken fellows staggered in one by one, cursing and hiccoughing, until every bunk was occupied.  They muttered oaths in their sleep, and their stertorous breathings made a concert fit for Tartarus.  The sickening odors of whisky, onions, and tobacco filled the room.  I lay there and longed for daylight, which seemed as if it never would come.  I thought of the descriptions I had heard and read of hell, and just then the most vivid conception of its horror was to be shut up forever with the aggregated impurity of the universe.  By contrast I tried to think of that city of God into which, it is said, "there shall in no wise enter into it any thing that defileth, neither whatsoever worketh abomination, or maketh a lie; but they which are written in the Lamb's book of life."  But thoughts of heaven did not suit the situation; it was more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:suggestive of the other place.  The horror of being shut up eternally in hell as the companion of lost spirits was intensified by the experience and reflections of that night when I was <HI REND="italics">corraled</HI>
060.sgm:<P>Day came at last.  I rose with the first streaks of the dawn, and not having much toilet to make, I was soon out-of-doors.  Never did I breathe the pure, fresh air with such profound pleasure and gratitude.  I drew deep inspirations, and, opening my coat and vest, let the breeze that swept up the valley blow upon me unrestricted.  How bright, was the face of nature, and how sweet her breath after the sights, sounds, and smells of the night!</P>
060.sgm:<P>I did not wait for breakfast, but had my pinto and buggy brought out, and, bidding Pete good-by, hurried on to Stockton.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"So you were <HI REND="italics">corraled</HI>
060.sgm:<P>I gave him the name.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Dave W--!" he exclaimed with fresh astonishment.  "That is the roughest place in the San Joaquin Valley.  Several men have been killed and robbed there during the last two or three years."</P>
060.sgm:<P>I hope Pete got back safe to his wife and children in Iowa; and I hope I may never be <HI REND="italics">corraled</HI>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE REBLOOMING.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>IT is now more than twenty years since the morning a slender youth of handsome face and modest mien came into my office on the corner of Montgomery and Clay streets, San Francisco.  He was the son of a preacher well known in Missouri and California, a man of rare good sense, caustic wit, and many eccentricities.  The young man became an <HI REND="italics">attache&acute;</HI>
060.sgm: of my newspaper-office and an inmate of my home.  He was as fair as a girl, and refined in his taste and manners.  A genial taciturnity, if the expression may be allowed, marked his bearing in the social circle.  Everybody had a kind feeling and a good word for the quiet, brightfaced youth.  In the discharge of his duties in the office he was punctual and trustworthy, showing not only industry but unusual aptitude for business.  It was with special pleasure that I learned that he was turning his thoughts to the subject of religion.  During the services in the little Pine-street church <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:he would sit with thoughtful face, and not seldom with moistened eyes.  He read the Bible and prayed in secret.  I was not surprised when he came to me one day and opened his heart.  The great crisis in his life had come.  God was speaking to his soul, and he was listening to his voice.  The uplifted cross drew him, and he yielded to the gentle attraction.  We prayed together, and henceforth there was a new and sacred bond that bound us to each other.  I felt that I was a witness to the most solemn transaction that can take place on earth--the wedding of a soul to a heavenly faith.  Soon thereafter he went to Virginia, to attend college.  There he united with the Church.  His letters to me were full of gratitude and joy.  It was the blossoming of his spiritual life, and the air was full of its fragrance, and the earth was flooded with glory.  A pedestrian-tour among the Virginia hills brought him into communion with Nature at a time when it was rapture to drink in its beauty and its grandeur.  The light kindled within his soul by the touch of the Holy Spirit transfigured the scenery upon which he gazed, and the glory of God shone round about the young student in the flush and blessedness of his first love.  O blessed days!  O days of brightness, and sweetness, and rapture!  The soul is then in its blossoming-time, and all high enthusiams, all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>His college-course finished, my young friend returned to California, and in one of its beautiful valley-towns he entered a law-office, with a view <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:to prepare himself for the legal profession.  Here he was thrown into daily association with a little knot of skeptical lawyers.  As is often the case, their moral obliquities ran parallel with their errors in opinion.  They swore, gambled genteelly, and drank.  It is not strange that in this icy atmosphere the growth of my young friend in the Christian life was stunted.  Such influences are like the dreaded north wind that at times sweeps over the valleys of California in the spring and early summer, blighting and withering the vegetation it does not kill.  The brightness of his hope was dimmed, and his soul knew the torture of doubt--a torture that is always keenest to him who allows himself to sink in the region of fogs after he has once stood upon the sunlit summit of faith.  Just at this crisis, a thing little in itself deepened the shadow that was falling upon his life.  A personal misunderstanding with the pastor kept him from attending church.  Thus he lost the most effectual defense against the assaults that were being made upon his faith and hope, in being separated from the fellowship and cut off from the activities of the Church of God.  Have you not noted these malign coincidences in life?  There are times when it seems that the tide of events sets against us--when, like the princely sufferer of the land of Uz, every messenger that crosses the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:threshold brings fresh tidings of ill, and our whole destiny seems to be rushing to a predoomed perdition.  The worldly call it bad luck; the superstitious call it fate; the believer in God calls it by another name.  Always of a delicate constitution, my friend now exhibited symptoms of serious pulmonary disease.  It was at that time the fashion in California to prescribe whisky as a specific for that class of ailments.  It is possible that there is virtue in the prescription, but I am sure of one thing, namely, that if consumption diminished, drunkenness increased; if fewer died of phthisis, more died of <HI REND="italics">delirium tremens</HI>
060.sgm:.  The physicians of California have sent a host of victims raving and gibbering in drunken frenzy or idiocy down to death and hell!  I have reason to believe that my friend inherited a constitutional weakness at this point.  As flame to tinder, was the medicinal whisky to him.  It grew upon him rapidly, and soon this cloud overshadowed all his life.  He struggled hard to break the serpent-folds that were tightening around him; but the fire that had been kindled seemed to be quenchless.  An uncontrolled evil passion is hell-fire.  He writhed in its burnings in an agony that could be understood only by such as knew how almost morbidly sensitive was his nature, and how vital was his conscience.  I became a pastor in the town where he lived, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>My friend had married a lovely girl, and the cottage in which they lived was one of the cosiest, and the garden in front was a little paradise of neatness and beauty.  Ah!  I must drop a veil over a part of this true tale.  All along I have written under half protest, the image of a sad, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Save him, Doctor, save him!  He is the noblest of men, and the tenderest, truest husband.  He loves you, and he will let you talk to him.  Save him, O save him!  Help me to pray for him!  My heart will break!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>Poor child!  her loving heart was indeed breaking; and her fresh young life was crushed under a weight of grief and shame too heavy to be borne.</P>
060.sgm:<P>What <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
060.sgm:<P>By a coincidence, after my return to San Francisco, he came thither, and again became my neighbor at North Beach.  I went up to see him one evening.  He was very feeble, and it was plain that the end was not far off.  At the first glance I saw that a great change had taken place in him.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"O Doctor, I am a wonder to myself!  It does seem to me that God has given back to me every good thing I possessed in the bright and blessed past.  It has all come back to me.  I see the light and feel the joy as I did when I first entered the new life.  O it is wonderful!  Doctor, God never gave me up, and I never ceased to yearn for his mercy and love, even in the darkest season of my unhappy life."</P>
060.sgm:<P>His very face had recovered its old look, and his voice its old tone.  There could be no doubt of it--his soul had rebloomed in the life of God.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The last night came--they sent for me with the message,</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Come quickly!  he is dying."</P>
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060.sgm:<P>I found him with that look which I have seen on the faces of others who were nearing death--a radiance and a rapture that awed the beholder.  O solemn, awful mystery of death!  I have stood in its presence in every form of terror and of sweetness, and in every case the thought has been impressed upon me that it was a passage into the Great Realities.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Doctor," he said, smiling, and holding my hand; "I had hoped to be with you in your office again, as in the old days--not as a business arrangement, but just to be with you, and revive old memories, and to live the old life over again.  But that cannot be, and I must wait till we meet in the world of spirits, whither I go before you.  It seems to be growing dark.  I cannot see your face--hold my hand.  I am going--going.  I am on the waves--on the waves--."  The radiance was still upon his face, but the hand I held no longer clasped mine--the wasted form was still.  It was the end.  He was launched upon the Infinite Sea for the endless voyage.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE EMPEROR NORTON.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>THAT was his title.  He wore it with an air that was a strange mixture of the mock-heroic and the pathetic.  He was mad on this one point, and strangely shrewd and well-informed on almost every other.  Arrayed in a faded-blue uniform, with brass buttons and epaulettes, wearing a cocked-hat with an eagle's feather, and at times with a rusty sword at his side, he was a conspicuous figure in the streets of San Francisco, and a regular <HI REND="italics">habitue&acute;</HI>
060.sgm: of all its public places.  In person he was stout, full-chested, though slightly stooped, with a large head heavily coated with bushy black hair, an aquiline nose, and dark gray eyes, whose mild expression added to the benignity of his face.  On the end of his nose grew a tuft of long hairs, which he seemed to prize as a natural mark of royalty, or chieftainship.  Indeed, there was a popular legend afloat that he was of true royal blood--a stray Bourbon, or something of the sort.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:His speech was singularly fluent and elegant.  The Emperor was one of the celebrities that no visitor failed to see.  It is said that his mind was unhinged by a sudden loss of fortune in the early days, by the treachery of a partner in trade.  The sudden blow was deadly, and the quiet, thrifty, affable man of business became a wreck.  By nothing is the inmost quality of a man made more manifest than by the manner in which he meets misfortune.  One, when the sky darkens, having strong impulse and weak will, rushes into suicide; another, with a large vein of cowardice, seeks to drown the sense of disaster in strong drink; yet another, tortured in every fiber of a sensitive organization, flees from the scene of his troubles and the faces of those that know him, preferring exile to shame.  The truest man, when assailed by sudden calamity, rallies all the reserved forces of a splendid manhood to meet the shock, and, like a good ship, lifting itself from the trough of the swelling sea, mounts the wave and rides on.  It was a curious idiosyncrasy that led this man, when fortune and reason were swept away at a stroke, to fall back upon this imaginary imperialism.  The nature that could thus, when the real fabric of life was wrecked, construct such another by the exercise of a disordered imagination, must have been originally of a gentle and magnanimous type.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:broken fragments of mind, like those of a statue, reveal the quality of the original creation.  It may be that he was happier than many who have worn real crowns.  Napoleon at Chiselhurst, or his greater uncle at St. Helena, might have been gainer by exchanging lots with this man, who had the inward joy of conscious greatness without its burden and its perils.  To all public places he had free access, and no pageant was complete without his presence.  From time to time he issued proclamations, signed, "Norton I.," which the lively San Francisco dailies were always ready to print conspicuously in their columns.  The style of these proclamations was stately, the royal first person plural being used by him with all gravity and dignity.  Ever and anon, as his uniform became dilapidated or ragged, a reminder of the condition of the imperial wardrobe would be given in one or more of the newspapers, and then in a few days he would appear in a new suit.  He had the <HI REND="italics">entre&acute;e</HI>
060.sgm: of all the restaurants, and he lodged--nobody knew where.  It was said that he was cared for by members of the Freemason Society to which he belonged at the time of his fall.  I saw him often in my congregation in the Pine-street church, along in 1858, and into the sixties.  He was a respectful and attentive listener to preaching.  On the occasion of one of his first visits he spoke to me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I think it my duty to encourage religion and morality by showing myself at church, and to avoid jealousy I attend them all in turn."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He loved children, and would come into the Sunday-school, and sit delighted with their singing.  When, in distributing the presents on a Christmas-tree, a necktie was handed him as the gift of the young ladies, he received it with much satisfaction, making a kingly bow of gracious acknowledgment.  Meeting him one day, in the spring-time, holding my little girl by the hand, he paused, looked at the child's bright face, and taking a rose-bud from his button-hole, he presented it to her with a manner so graceful, and a smile so benignant, as to show that under the dingy blue uniform there beat the heart of a gentleman.  He kept a keen eye on current events, and sometimes expressed his views with great sagacity.  One day he stopped me on the street, saying</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I have just read the report of the political sermon of Dr.--(giving the name of a noted sensational preacher, who was in the habit, at times, of discussing politics from his pulpit).  I disapprove political-preaching.  What do you think?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>I expressed my cordial concurrence.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>"I will put a stop to it.  The preachers must stop preaching politics, or they must all come into one State Church.  I will at once issue a decree to that effect."</P>
060.sgm:<P>For some unknown reason, that decree never was promulgated.</P>
060.sgm:<P>After the war, he took a deep interest in the reconstruction of the Southern States.  I met him one day on Montgomery street, when he asked me in a tone and with a look of earnest solicitude:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Do you hear any complaint or dissatisfaction concerning me from the South?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>I gravely answered in the negative.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I was for keeping the country undivided, but I have the kindest feeling for the Southern people, and will see that they are protected in all their rights.  Perhaps if I were to go among them in person, it might have a good effect.  What do you think?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>I looked at him keenly as I made some suitable reply, but could see nothing in his expression but simple sincerity.  He seemed to feel that he was indeed the father of his people.  George Washington himself could not have adopted a more paternal tone.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Walking along the street behind the Emperor one day, my curiosity was a little excited by seeing him thrust his hand into the hip-pocket of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>He was seldom made sport of or treated rudely.  I saw him on one occasion when a couple of passing hoodlums jeered at him.  He turned and gave them a look so full of mingled dignity, pain, and surprise, that the low fellows were abashed, and uttering a forced laugh, with averted faces they hurried on.  The presence that can bring shame to a San Francisco hoodlum must indeed be kingly, or in some way impressive.  In that genus the beastliness and devilishness of American city-life reach their lowest denomination.  When the brutality of the savage and the lowest forms of civilized vice are combined, human nature touches bottom.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The Emperor never spoke of his early life.  The veil of mystery on this point increased the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>The end of all human grandeur, real or imaginary, comes at last.  The Emperor became thinner and more stooped as the years passed.  The humor of his hallucination retired more and more into the background, and its pathetic side came out more strongly.  His step was slow and feeble, and there was that look in his eyes so often seen in the old and sometimes in the young, just before the great change comes--a rapt, far-away look, suggesting that the invisible is coming into view, the shadows vanishing and the realities appearing.  The familiar face and form were missed on the streets, and it was known that he was dead.  He had gone to his lonely lodging, and quietly lain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CAMILLA CAIN.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>SHE was from Baltimore, and had the fair face and gentle voice peculiar to most Baltimore women.  Her organization was delicate but elastic--one of the sort that bends easily, but is hard to break.  In her eyes was that look of wistful sadness so often seen in holy women of her type.  Timid as a fawn, in the class-meeting she spoke of her love to Jesus and delight in his service in a voice low and a little hesitating, but with strangely thrilling effect.  The meetings were sometimes held in her own little parlor in the cottage on Dupont street, and then we always felt that we had met where the Master himself was a constant and welcome guest.  She was put into the crucible.  For more than fifteen years she suffered unceasing and intense bodily pain.  Imprisoned in her sick-chamber, she fought her long, hard battle.  The pain-distorted limbs lost their use, the patient face waxed more wan, and the traces of agony were on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:it always; the soft, loving eyes were often tear-washed.  The fires were hot, and they burned on through the long, long years without respite.  The mystery of it all was too deep for me; it was too deep for her.  But somehow it does seem that the highest suffer most:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The sign of rank in Nature<LB>Is capacity for pain,<LB>And the anguish of the singer<LB>Makes the sweetness of the strain.<LB></HI>
060.sgm:<P>The victory of her faith was complete.  If the inevitable <HI REND="italics">why?</HI>
060.sgm: sometimes was in her thought, no shadow of distrust ever fell upon her heart.  Her sick-room was the quietest, brightest spot in all the city.  How often did I go thither weary and faint with the roughness of the way, and leave feeling that I had heard the voices and inhaled the odors of paradise!  A little talk, a psalm, and then a prayer, during which the room seemed to be filled with angel-presences; after which the thin, pale face was radiant with the light reflected from our Immanuel's face.  I often went to see her, not so much to convey as to get a blessing.  Her heart was kept fresh as a rose of Sharon in the dew of the morning.  The children loved to be near her; and the pathetic face of the dear crippled boy, the pet of the family, was always brighter in her presence.  Thrice death came into the home-circle with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:its shock and mighty wrenchings of the heart, but the victory was not his, but hers.  Neither death nor life could separate her from the love of her Lord.  She was one of the elect.  The elect are those who know, having the witness in themselves.  She was conqueror of both--life with its pain and its weariness, death with its terror and its tragedy.  She did not endure merely, she triumphed.  Borne on the wings of a mighty faith, her soul was at times lifted above all sin, and temptation, and pain, and the sweet, abiding peace swelled into an ecstasy of sacred joy.  Her swimming eyes and rapt look told the unutterable secret.  She has crossed over the narrow stream on whose margin she lingered so long; and there was joy on the other side when the gentle, patient, holy Camilla Cain joined the glorified throng.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>O though oft depressed and lonely,<LB>All my fears are laid aside,<LB>If I but remember only<LB>Such as these have lived and died!<LB></HI>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LONE MOUNTAIN.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>THE sea-wind sweeps over the spot at times in gusts like the frenzy of hopeless grief, and at times in sighs as gentle as those heaved by aged sorrow in sight of eternal rest.  The voices of the great city come faintly over the sand-hills, with subdued murmur like a lullaby to the pale sleepers that are here lying low.  When the winds are quiet, which is not often, the moan of the mighty Pacific can be heard day or night, as if it voiced in muffled tones the unceasing woe of a world under the reign of death.  Westward, on the summit of a higher hill, a huge cross stretches its arms as if embracing the living and the dead--the first object that catches the eye of the weary voyager as he nears the Golden Gate, the last that meets his lingering gaze as he goes forth upon the great waters.  O sacred emblem of the faith with which we launch upon life's stormy main--of the hope that assures that we shall reach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:the port when the night and the tempest are past!  When the winds are high, the booming of the breakers on the cliff sounds as if nature were impatient of the long, long delay, and had anticipated the last thunders that wake the sleeping dead.  On a clear day, the blue Pacific, stretching away beyond the snowy surf-line, symbolizes the shoreless sea that rolls through eternity.  The Cliff House road that runs hard by is the chief drive of the pleasure-seekers of San Francisco.  Gayety, and laughter, and heart-break, and tears, meet on the drive; the wail of agony and the laugh of gladness mingle as the gay crowds dash by the slow-moving procession on its way to the grave.  How often have I made that slow, sad journey to Lone Mountain--a <HI REND="italics">Via Doloroso</HI>
060.sgm: to many who have never been the same after they had gone thither, and coming back found the light quenched and the music hushed in their homes!  Thither the dead Senator was borne, followed by the tramping thousands, rank on rank, amid the booming of minute-guns, the tolling of bells, the measured tread of plumed soldiers, and the roll of drums.  Thither was carried, in his rude coffin, the "unknown man" found dead in the streets, to be buried in potter's-field.  Thither was borne the hard and grasping idolater of riches, who clung to his coin, and clutched for more, until he was dragged away <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>The first time I ever visited the place was to attend the funeral of a suicide.  The dead man I had known in Virginia, when I was a boy.  He was a graduate of the Virginia Military Institute, and when I first knew him he was the captain of a famous volunteer company.  He was as handsome as a picture--the admiration of the girls, and the envy of the young men of his native town.  He was among the first who rushed to California on the discovery of gold, and of all the heroic men who gave early California its best bias none was knightlier than this handsome Virginian; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Ten minutes afterward he lay on the floor of his room dead, with a bullet through his brain, his hair dabbled in blood.  At the funeral-service, in the little church on Pine street, strong men bowed their heads and sobbed.  His wife sat on a front seat, pale as marble and as motionless, her lips compressed as with inward pain; but I saw no tears on the beautiful face.  At the grave the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"There lies as noble a gentleman as ever breathed, and he owes his death to that fiend!" pointing his finger at the wife, who stood pale and silent looking down into the grave.</P>
060.sgm:<P>She gave him a look that I shall never forget, and the large steely-blue eyes flashed fire, but she spoke no word.  I spoke:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Whatever may be your feelings, or whatever the occasion for them, you degrade yourself by such an exhibition of them <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"That is so, sir; excuse me, my feelings overcame me," he said, and retiring a few steps, he leaned upon a branch of a scrub-oak and sobbed like a child.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The farce and the tragedy of real life were here exhibited on another occasion.  Among my acquaintances in the city were a man and his wife who were singularly mismatched.  He was a plain, unlettered, devout man, who in a prayer-meeting or class-meeting talked with a simple-hearted earnestness that always produced a happy effect.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"What shall I do?  How can I live?  I have lost my all!  O! O! O!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>It was the dead man's wife.  Significant glances and smiles were interchanged by the by-standers.  Approaching the carriage in which the woman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Hush!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>She understood me, and not another sound did she utter.  Poor woman!  She was not perhaps as heartless as they thought she was.  There was at least a little remorse in those forced exclamations, when she thought of the dead man in the coffin; but her eyes were dry, and she stopped very short.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Another incident recurs to me that points in a different direction.  One day the most noted gambler in San Francisco called on me with the request that I should attend the funeral of one of his friends, who had died the night before.  A splendid looking fellow was this knight of the faro-table.  More than six feet in height, with deep chest and perfectly rounded limbs, jet black hair, brilliant black eyes, clear olive complexion, and easy manners, he might have been taken for an Italian nobleman or a Spanish Don.  He had a tinge of Cherokee blood in his veins.  I have noticed that this cross of the white and Cherokee blood often results in producing this magnificent physical development.  I have known a number of women of this lineage, who were very queens in their beauty and carriage.  But this noted gambler was illiterate.  The only book of which he knew or cared much was one that had fifty-two pages, with twelve <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Parson, can you come to number--, on Kearney street, to-morrow at ten o'clock, and give us a few words and a prayer over a friend of mine, who died last night?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>I promised to be there, and he left.</P>
060.sgm:<P>His friend, like himself, had been a gambler.  He was from New York.  He was well educated, gentle in his manners, and a general favorite with the rough and desperate fellows with whom he associated, but with whom he seemed out of place.  The passion for gambling had put its terrible spell on him, and he was helpless in its grasp.  But though he mixed with the crowds that thronged the gambling-hells, he was one of them only in the absorbing passion for play.  There was a certain respect shown him by all that venturesome fraternity.  He went to Frazer River during the gold excitement.  In consequence of exposure and privation in that wild chase after gold, which proved fatal to so many eager adventurers, he contracted pulmonary disease, and came back to San Francisco to die.  He had not a dollar.  His gambler friend took charge of him, placed him in a good boarding-place, hired a nurse for him, and for nearly a year provided for all his wants.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>"I knew him when he was in better luck," said he, "and felt like I ought to stand by him."</P>
060.sgm:<P>At the funeral there was a large attendance of gamblers, with a sprinkling of women whose social <HI REND="italics">status</HI>
060.sgm:<P>I was sitting in my office at work on the same afternoon, when the tall and portly form of the gambler presented itself.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Parson, you went through that funeral this morning in a way that suited me.  Take this, with my thanks."</P>
060.sgm:<P>As he spoke he extended his hand with ever so many shining gold pieces--twenties, tens, and fives.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"No," I said; "it is contrary to the usage of my Church and to my own taste to take pay for burying a fellow-man."</P>
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060.sgm:<P>After thoughtfully considering a moment, he said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"That suits me.  But would you object to wearing a little trinket on your watch-chain, coming from a man like me?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>Seeing his heart was set on it, I told him I would not decline taking such a token of his good-will.  The gift of a most beautiful and costly Japanese crystal was the result.  I wore it for many years, and when it was lost at Los Angeles, in 1877, I felt quite sorry.  It reminded me of an incident that showed the good side of human nature in a circle in which the other side is usually uppermost.</P>
060.sgm:<P>My pencil lingers, as I think of this far-away resting-place of the dead, and as I lay it down, I seem to hear the ocean's moan and the dirge of the winds; and the pale images of many, many faces that have faded away into the darkness of death rise before me, some of them with radiant smiles and beckoning hands.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>NEWTON.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>THE miners called him the "Wandering Jew."  That was behind his back.  To his face they addressed him as Father Newton.  He walked his circuits in the northern mines.  No pedestrian could keep up with him, as with his long form bending forward, his immense yellow beard that reached to his breast floating in the wind, he he strode from camp to camp with the message of salvation.  It took a good trotting-horse to keep pace with him.  Many a stout prospector, meeting him on a highway, after panting and straining to bear him company, had to fall behind, gazing after him in wonder, as he swept out of sight at that marvelous gait.  There was a glitter in his eye, and an intensity of gaze that left you in doubt whether it was genius or madness that it bespoke.  It was, in truth, a little of both.  He had genius.  Nobody ever talked with him, or heard him preach, without finding it out.  The rough fellow who offended <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"What do you mean?" he thundered, stopping and fixing his keen eye upon the rowdy.</P>
060.sgm:<P>A rude and profane reply was made by the jeering sinner.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Quick as thought Newton rushed upon him with flashing eye and uplifted bucket, a picture of fiery wrath that was too much for the thoughtless scoffer, who fled in terror amid the laughter of the crowd.  The vanquished son of Belial had no sympathy from anybody, and the plucky preacher was none the less esteemed because he was ready to defend his Master's cause with carnal weapons.  The early Californians left scarcely any path of sin unexplored, and were a sad set of sinners, but for virtuous women and religion they never lost their reverence.  Both were scarce in those days, when it seemed to be thought that gold-digging and the Decalogue could not be made to harmonize.  The pioneer preachers found that one good woman made a better basis for evangelization than a score of nomadic bachelors.  The first accession of a woman to a church in the mines was an epoch in its history.  The church in the house of Lydia was the normal type--it must be anchored <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>He visited San Francisco during my pastorate in 1858.  On Sunday morning he preached a sermon of such extraordinary beauty and power that at the night-service the house was crowded by a curious congregation, drawn thither by the report of the forenoon effort.  His subject was the faith of the mother of Moses, and he handled it in his own way.  The powerful effect of one passage I shall never forget.  It was a description of the mother's struggle, and the victory of her faith in the crisis of her trial.  No longer able to protect her child, she resolves to commit him to her God.  He drew a picture of her as she sat weaving together the grasses of the little ark of bulrushes, her hot tears falling upon her work, and pausing from time to time with her hand pressed upon her throbbing heart.  At length, the little vessel is finished, and she goes by night to the bank of the Nile, to take the last chance to save her boy from the knife of the murderers.  Approaching the river's edge, with the ark in her hands, she stoops a moment, but her mother's heart fails her.  How can she give up her child?  In frenzy of grief she sinks upon her knees, and lifting her gaze to the heavens, passionately prays to the God of Israel.  That prayer!  It was the wail of a breaking heart, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:a cry out of the depths of a mighty agony.  But as she prays the inspiration of God enters her soul, her eyes kindle, and her face beams with the holy light of faith.  She rises, lifts the little ark, looks upon the sleeping face of the fair boy, prints a long, long kiss upon his brow, and then with a firm step she bends down, and placing the tiny vessel upon the waters, lets it go.  "And away it went," he said, "rocking upon the waves as it swept beyond the gaze of the mother's straining eyes.  The monsters of the deep were there, the serpent of the Nile was there, behemoth was there, but the child slept as sweetly and as safely upon the rocking waters as if it were nestled upon its mother's breast-- <HI REND="italics">for God was there</HI>
060.sgm:<P>In a revival-meeting, on another occasion, he said, in a sermon of terrific power: "O the hardness of the human heart!  Yonder is a man in hell.  He is told that there is one condition on which he may be delivered, and that is that he must get the consent of every good being in the universe.  A ray of hope enters his soul, and he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:sets out to comply with the condition.  He visits heaven and earth, and finds sympathy and consent from all.  All the holy angels consent to his pardon; all the pure and holy on earth consent; God himself repeats the assurance of his willingness that he may be saved.  Even in hell, the devils do not object, knowing that his misery only heightens theirs.  All are willing, all are ready--all but <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
060.sgm: man.  He refuses; he will not consent.  A monster of cruelty and wickedness, he refuses his simple consent to save a soul from an eternal hell!  Surely a good God and all good beings in the universe would turn in horror from such a monster.  <HI REND="italics">Sinner, you are that man</HI>
060.sgm:<P>The words were something like these, but the energy, the passion, the frenzy of the speaker must be imagined.  Hard and stubborn hearts were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>This old man of the mountains was a walking encyclopedia of theological and other learning.  He owned books that could not be duplicated in California; and he read them, digested their contents, and constantly surprised his cultivated hearers by the affluence of his knowledge, and the fertility of his literary and classic allusion.  He wrote with elegance and force.  His weak point was orthography.  He would trip sometimes in the spelling of the most common words.  His explanation of this weakness was curious: He was a printer in Mobile, Alabama.  On one occasion a thirty-two-page book-form of small type was "pied."  "I undertook," said he, "to set that pied form to rights, and, in doing so, the words got so mixed in my brain that my spelling was spoiled forever!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>He went to Oregon, and traveled and preached from the Cascade Mountains to Idaho, thrilling, melting, and amusing, in turn, the crowds that came out to hear the wild-looking man whose coming was so sudden, and whose going was so rapid, that they were lost in wonder, as if gazing at a meteor that flashed across the sky.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He was a Yankee from New Hampshire, who, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE CALIFORNIA POLITICIAN.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>THE California politician of the early days was plucky.  He had to be so, for faint heart won no votes in those rough times.  One of the Marshalls (Tom or Ned--I forget which), at the beginning of a stump-speech one night in the mines, was interrupted by a storm of hisses and execrations from a turbulent crowd of fellows, many of whom were full of whisky.  He paused a moment, drew himself up to his full height, coolly took a pistol from his pocket, laid it on the stand before him, and said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I have seen bigger crowds than this many a time.  I want it to be fully understood that I came here to make a speech to-night, and I am going to do it, or else there will be a funeral or two."</P>
060.sgm:<P>That touch took with that crowd.  The one thing they all believed in was courage.  Marshall made one of his grandest speeches, and at the close <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>That was a curious exordium of "Uncle Peter Mehan," when he made his first stump-speech at Sonora: "Fellow-citizens, <HI REND="italics">I was born an orphin at a very early period of my life</HI>
060.sgm:<P>In the early days, the Virginians, New Yorkers, and Tennesseans, led in politics.  Trained to the stump at home, the Virginians and Tennesseans were ready on all occasions to run a primary-meeting, a convention, or a canvass.  There was scarcely a mining-camp in the State in which there was not a leading local politician from one or both of these States.  The New Yorker understood all the inside management of party organization, and was up to all the smart tactics developed in the lively struggles of parties in the times when Whiggery and Democracy fiercely fought for rule in the Empire State.  Broderick was a New Yorker, trained by Tammany in its palmy days.  He was a chief, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:who rose from the ranks, and ruled by force of will.  Thick-set, strong-limbed, full-chested, with immense driving-power in his back-head, he was an athlete whose stalwart <HI REND="italics">physique</HI>
060.sgm: was of more value to him than the gift of eloquence, or even the power of money.  The sharpest lawyers and the richest money-kings alike went down before this uncultered and moneyless man, who dominated the clans of San Francisco simply by right of his manhood.  He was not without a sort of eloquence of his own.  He spoke right to the point, and his words fell like the thud of a shillalah, or rang like the clash of steel.  He dealt with the rough elements of politics in an exciting and turbulent period of California politics, and was more of a border chief than an Ivanhoe in his modes of warfare.  He reached the United States Senate, and in his first speech in that august body he honored his manhood by an allusion to his father, a stone-mason, whose hands, said Broderick, had helped to erect the very walls of the chamber in which he spoke.  When a man gets as high as the United States Senate, there is less tax upon his magnanimity in acknowledging his humble origin than while he is lower down the ladder.  You seldom hear a man boast how low he began until he is far up toward the summit of his ambition.  Ninety-nine out of every hundred self-made men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Broderick's great rival was Gwin.  The men were antipodes in every thing except that they belonged to the same party.  Gwin still lives, the most colossal figure in the history of California.  He looks the man he is.  Of immense frame, ruddy complexion, deep-blue eyes that almost blaze when he is excited, rugged yet expressive features, a massive head crowned with a heavy suit of silver-white hair, he is marked by Nature for leadership.  Common men seem dwarfed in his presence.  After he had dropped out of California politics for awhile, a Sacramento hotel-keeper expressed what many felt during a legislative session: "I find myself looking around for Gwin.  I miss the chief."</P>
060.sgm:<P>My first acquaintance with Dr. Gwin began with an incident that illustrates the man and the times.  It was in 1856.  The Legislature was in session at Sacramento, and a United States Senator was to be elected.  I was making a tentative movement toward starting a Southern Methodist newspaper, and visited Sacramento on that business.  My friend Major P. L. Solomon was there, and took a friendly interest in my enterprise.  He proposed to introduce me to the leading men of both parties, and I thankfully availed myself of his courtesy.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I am with you, of course.  My mother was a Methodist, and all my sympathies are with the Methodist Church.  I am a Southern man in all my convictions and impulses, and I am a Southern Methodist in principle.  But you see, sir, I am a candidate for United States Senator, and sectional feeling is likely to enter into the contest, and if it were known that my name was on your list of subscribers, it might endanger my election."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He squeezed my arm, told me he loved me and my Church, said he would be happy to see me often, and so forth--but he did not give me his name.  I left him, saying in my heart, Here is a politician.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Going on together, in the corridor we met Gwin.  Solomon introduced me, and told him my business.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I am glad to know that you are going to start a Southern Methodist newspaper.  No Church can do without its organ.  Put me down on your list, and come with me, and I will make all these fellows subscribe.  There is not much religion among them, I fear, but we will make them take the paper."</P>
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060.sgm:<P>This was said in a hearty and pleasant way, and he took me from man to man, until I had gotten more than a dozen names, among them two or three of his most active political opponents.</P>
060.sgm:<P>This incident exhibits the two types of the politician, and the two classes of men to be found in all communities--the one all "blarney" and selfishness, the other with real manhood redeeming poor human nature, and saving it from utter contempt.  The senatorial prize eluded the grasp of both aspirants, but the reader will not be at a loss to guess whose side I was on.  Dr. Gwin made a friend that day, and never lost him.  It was this sort of fidelity to friends that, when fortune frowned on the grand old Senator after the collapseat Appomattox, rallied thousands of true hearts to his side, among whom were those who had fought him in many a fierce political battle.  Broderick and Gwin were both, by a curious turn of political fortune, elected by the same Legislature to the United States Senate.  Broderick sleeps in Lone Mountain, and Gwin still treads the stage of his former glory, a living monument of the days when California politics was half romance and half tragedy.  The friend and <HI REND="italics">prote&acute;ge&acute;</HI>
060.sgm: of General Andrew Jackson, a member of the first Constitutional Convention of California, twice United States Senator, a prominent figure in the civil war, the father <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Gwin was succeeded by McDougall.  What a man was he! His face was as classic as a Greek statue.  It spoke the student and the scholar in every line.  His hair was snow-white, his eyes bluish-gray,and his form sinewy and elastic.  He went from Illinois, with Baker and other men of genius, and soon won a high place at the bar of San Francisco.  I heard it said, by an eminent jurist, that when McDougall had put his whole strength into the examination of a case, his side of it was exhausted.  His reading was immense, his learning solid.  His election was doubtless a surprise to himself as well as to the California public.  The day before he left for Washington City, I met him in the street, and as we parted I held his hand a moment, and said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Your friends will watch your career with hope and with fear."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He knew what I meant, and said, quickly:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I understand you.  You are afraid that I will yield to my weakness for strong drink.  But you may be sure I will play the man, and California shall have no cause to blush on my account."</P>
060.sgm:<P>That was his fatal weakness.  No one, looking upon his pale, scholarly face, and noting his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"McDougall commands as much attention in the Senate when drunk as any other Senator does when sober," said a Congressman in Washington in 1866.  It is said that his great speech on the question of "confiscation," at the beginning of the war, was delivered when he was in a state of semiintoxication.  Be that as it may, it exhausted the whole question, and settled the policy of the Government.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"No one will watch your senatorial career with more friendly interest than myself; and if you will abstain wholly from all strong drink, we shall all be proud of you, I know."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Not a drop will I touch, my friend; and I'll make you proud of me."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He spoke feelingly, and I think there was a moisture about his eye as he pressed my hand and walked away.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I never saw him again.  For the first few months he wrote to me often, and then his letters came at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>The typical California politician was Coffroth.  The "boys" fondly called him "Jim" Coffroth.  There is no surer sign of popularity than a popular abbreviation of this sort, unless it is a pet nickname.  Coffroth was from Pennsylvania, where he had gained an inkling of politics and general literature.  He gravitated into California politics by the law of his nature.  He was born for this, having what a friend calls the gift of popularity.  His presence was magnetic; his laugh was contagious; his enthusiasm irresistible.  Nobody ever thought of taking offense at Jim Coffroth.  He could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:change his politics with impunity without losing a friend--he never had a personal enemy; but I believe he only made that experiment once.  He went off with the Know-nothings in 1855, and was elected by them to the State Senate, and was called to preside over their State Convention.  He hastened back to his old party associates, and at the first convention that met in his county on his return from the Legislature, he rose and told them how lonesome he had felt while astray from the old fold, how glad he was to get back, and how humble he felt, concluding by advising all his late supporters to do as he had done by taking "a straight chute" for the old party.  He ended amid a storm of applause, was rei&uml;nstated at once, and was made President of the next Democratic State Convention.  There he was in his glory.  His tact and good humor were infinite, and he held those hundreds of excitable and explosive men in the hollow of his hand.  He would dismiss a dangerous motion with a witticism so apt that the mover himself would join in the laugh, and give it up.  His broad face in repose was that of a Quaker, at other times that of a Bacchus.  There was a religious streak in this jolly partisan, and he published several poems that breathed the sweetest and loftiest religious sentiment.  The newspapers were a little disposed to make a joke of these ebullitions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:of devotional feeling, but they now make the light that casts a gleam of brightness upon the background of his life.  I take from an old volume of the <HI REND="italics">Christian Spectator</HI>
060.sgm: one of these poems as a literary curiosity.  Every man lives two lives.  The rollicking politician, "Jim Coffroth," every Californian knew; the author of these lines was another man by the same name:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>AMID THE SILENCE OF THE NIGHT.<LB>"Behold, he that keepeth Israel shall neither slumber nor sleep."<LB>Psalm cxxi.<LB>Amid the silence of the night,<LB>Amid its lonely hours and dreary,<LB>When we close the aching sight,<LB>Musing sadly, lorn and weary,<LB>Trusting that to-morrow's light<LB>May reveal a day more cheery;<LB>Amid affliction's darker hour,<LB>When no hope beguiles our sadness,<LB>When Death's hurtling tempests lower,<LB>And forever shroud our gladness,<LB>While Grief's unrelenting power<LB>Goads our stricken hearts to madness;<LB>When from friends beloved we're parted,<LB>And from scenes our spirits love,<LB>And are driven, broken-hearted,<LB>O'er a heartless world to rove;<LB>When the woes by which we've smarted,<LB>Vainly seek to melt or move;<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<LB>When we trust and are deluded,<LB>When we love and are denied,<LB>When the schemes o'er which we brooded<LB>Burst like mist on mountain's side,<LB>And, from every hope excluded,<LB>We in dark despair abide;<LB>Then, and ever, God sustains us,<LB>He whose eye no slumber knows,<LB>Who controls each throb that pains us,<LB>And in mercy sends our woes,<LB>And by love severe constrains us<LB>To avoid eternal throes.<LB>Happy he whose heart obeys him!<LB>Lost and ruined who disown!<LB>O if idols e'er displace him,<LB>Tear them from his chosen throne!<LB>May our lives and language praise him!<LB>May our hearts be his alone!<LB></HI>
060.sgm:<P>He took defeat with a good nature that robbed it of its sting, and made his political opponents half sorry for having beaten him.  He was talked of for Governor at one time, and he gave as a reason why he would like the office that "a great many of his friends were in the State-prison, and he wanted to use the pardoning power in their behalf."  This was a jest, of course, referring to the fact that as a lawyer much of his practice was in the criminal courts.  He was never suspected of treachery or dishonor in public or private life.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>His good nature was tested once while presiding over a party convention at Sonora for the nomination of candidates for legislative and county offices.  Among the delegates was the eccentric John Vallew, whose mind was a singular compound of shrewdness and flightiness, and was stored with the most out-of-the-way scraps of learning, philosophy, and poetry.  Some one proposed Vallew's name as a candidate for the Legislature.  He rose to his feet with a clouded face, and in an angry voice said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Mr. President, I am surprised and mortified.  I have lived in this county more than seven years, and I have never had any difficulty with my neighbors.  I did not know that I had an enemy in the world.  What have I done, that it should be proposed to send me to the Legislature?  What reason has anybody to think I am that sort of a man?  To think I should have come to this!  To propose to send me to the Legislature, when it is a notorious fact that you have never sent a man thither from this county <HI REND="italics">who did not come back morally and pecuniarily ruined</HI>
060.sgm:<P>The crowd saw the point, and roared with laughter, Coffroth, who had served in the previous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Coffroth grew fatter and jollier; his strong intellect struggled against increasing sensual tendencies.  What the issue might have been, I know not.  He died suddenly, and his destiny was transferred to another sphere.  So there dropped out of California-life a partisan without bitterness, a satirist without malice, a wit without a sting, the jolliest, freest, readiest man that ever faced a California audience on the hustings--the typical politician of California.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>OLD MAN LOWRY.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>I HAD marked his expressive physiognomy among my hearers in the little church in Sonora for some weeks before he made himself known to me.  As I learned afterward, he was weighing the young preacher in his critical balances.  He had a shrewd Scotch face, in which there was a mingling of keenness, benignity, and humor.  His age might be sixty, or it might be more.  He was an old bachelor, and wide guesses are sometimes made as the ages of that class of men.  They may not live longer than married men, but they do not show the effects of life's wear and tear so early.  He came to see us one evening.  He fell in love with the mistress of the parsonage, just as he ought to have done, and we were charmed with the quaint old bachelor.  There was a piquancy, a sharp flavor, in his talk that was delightful.  His aphorisms often crystallized a neglected truth in a form all his own.  He was an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Society in the mines was limited in that day, and we felt that we had found a real <HI REND="italics">thesaurus</HI>
060.sgm:<P>He had left the Church because he did not agree with the preachers on some points of Christian ethics, and because they used tobacco.  But he was unhappy on the outside, and finding that my views and habits did not happen to cross his peculiar notions, he came back.  His religious experience was out of the common order.  Bred a Calvinist, of the good old Scotch-Presbyterian type, he had swung away from that faith, and was in danger of rushing into Universalism, or infidelity.  That once famous and much-read little book, "John Nelson's Journal," fell into his hands, and changed his whole life.  It led him to Christ, and to the Methodists.  He was a true spiritual child of the unflinching Yorkshire stone-cutter.  Like him he despised half-way measures, and like him he was aggressive in thought and action.  What he liked he loved, what he disliked he hated.  Calvinismhe abhorred, and he let no occasion pass for pouring into it the hot shot of his scorn and wrath.  One <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:night I preached from the text, <HI REND="italics">Should it be according to thy mind</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"The first part of your sermon," he said to me as we passed out of the church, "distressed me greatly.  For a full half hour you preached straightout Calvinism, and I thought you had ruined every thing; but you had left a little slip-gap, and crawled out at the last."</P>
060.sgm:<P>His ideal of a minister of the gospel was Dr. Keener, whom he knew at New Orleans before coming to California.  He was the first man I ever heard mention Dr. Keener's name for the episcopacy.  There was much in common between them.  If my eccentric California bachelor friend did not have as strong and cool a head, he had as brave and true a heart as the incisive and chivalrous Louisiana preacher, upon whose head the miter was placed by the suffrage of his brethren at Louisville in 1874.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He became very active as a worker in the Church.  I made him class-leader, and there have been few in that office who brought to its sacred duties as much spiritual insight, candor, and tenderness.  At times his words flashed like diamonds, showing what the Bible can reveal to a solitary thinker who makes it his chief study day and night.  When needful, he could apply caustic that burned to the very core of an error of opinion or of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I didn't want to beat Annie."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Robert won the prize, and the day came for its presentation.  The house was full, and everybody was in a pleasant mood.  After the prize had been presented in due form and with a little flourish, Lowry arose, and producing a costly Bible, in a few words telling how magnanimously and gallantly Jonathan had retired from the contest, presented it to the pleased and blushing boy.  The boys and girls applauded California fashion, and the old man's face glowed with satisfaction.  He had in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>The old man had too many crotchets and too much combativeness to be popular.  He spared no opinion or habit he did not like.  He struck every angle within reach of him.  In the state of society then existing in the mines there were many things to vex his soul, and keep him on the warpath.  The miners looked upon him as a brave, good man, just a little daft.  He worked a miningclaim on Wood's Creek, north of town, and lived alone in a tiny cabin on the hill above.  That was the smallest of cabins, looking like a mere box from the trail which wound through the flat below.  Two little scrub-oaks stood near it, under which he sat and read his Bible in leisure moments.  There, above the world, he could commune with his own heart and with God undisturbed, and look down upon a race he half pitied and half despised.  From the spot the eye took in a vast sweep of hill and dale: Bald Mountain, the most striking object in the near background, and beyond its dark, rugged mass the snowy summits of the Sierras, rising one above another, like gigantic stair-steps, leading up to the throne of the Eternal.  This lonely height suited Lowry's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>There was an intensity in all that he did.  Passing his mining-claim on horseback one day, I paused to look at him in his work.  Clad in a blue flannel mining-suit, he was digging as for life.  The embankment of red dirt and gravel melted away rapidly before his vigorous strokes, and he seemed to feel a sort of fierce delight in his work.  Pausing a moment, he looked up and saw me.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You dig as if you were in a hurry," I said.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes, I have been digging here three years.  I have a notion that I have just so much of the earth to turn over before I am turned under," he replied with a sort of grim humor.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He was still there when we visited Sonora in 1857.  He invited us out to dinner, and we went.  By skillful circling around the hill, we reached the little cabin on the summit with horse and buggy. The old man had made preparations for his expected guests.  The floor of the cabin had been swept, and its scanty store of furniture put to rights, and a dinner was cooking in and on the little stove.  His lady-guest insisted on helping in the preparation of the dinner, but was allowed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUICIDE IN CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>A HALF protest rises within me as I begin this Sketch.  The page almost turns crimson under my gaze, and shadowy forms come forth out of the darkness into which they wildly plunged out of life's misery into death's mystery.  Ghostly lips cry out, "Leave us alone!  Why call us back to a world where we lost all, and in quitting which we risked all?  Disturb us not to gratify the cold curiosity of unfeeling strangers.  We have passed on beyond human jurisdiction to the realities we dared to meet.  Give us the pity and courtesy of your silence, O living brother, who didst escape the wreck!"  The appeal is not without effect, and if I lift the shroud that covers the faces of these dead self-destroyed, it will be tenderly, pityingly.  These simple Sketches of real California-life would be imperfect if this characteristic feature were entirely omitted; for California was (and is yet) the land of suicides. In a single year there were one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:hundred and six in San Francisco alone.  The whole number of suicides in the State would, if the horror of each case could be even imperfectly imagined, appal even the dryest statistician of crime.  The causes for this prevalence of self-destruction are to be sought in the peculiar conditions of the country, and the habits of the people.  California, with all its beauty, grandeur, and riches, has been to the many who have gone thither a land of great expectations, but small results.  This was specially the case in the earlier period of its history, after the discovery of gold and its settlement by "Americans," as we call ourselves, <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
060.sgm:.  Hurled from the topmost height of extravagant hope to the lowest deep of disappointment, the shock is too great for reaction; the rope, razor, bullet, or deadly drug, finishes the tragedy.  Materialistic infidelity in California is the avowed belief of multitudes, and its subtle poison infects the minds and unconsciously the actions of thousands who recoil from the dark abyss that yawns at the feet of its adherents with its fascination of horror.  Under some circumstances, suicide becomes logical to a man who has neither hope nor dread of a hereafter.  Sins against the body, and especially the nervous system, were prevalent; and days of pain, sleepless nights, and weakened wills, were the precursors of the tragedy that promised change, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>A noted case in San Francisco was that of a French Catholic priest. He was young, brilliant, and popular--beloved by his flock, and admired by a large circle outside.  He had taken the solemn vows of his order in all sincerity of purpose, and was distinguished as well for his zeal in his pastoral work as for his genius.  But temptation met him, and he fell.  It came in the shape in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Among the lawyers in one of the largest mining towns of California was H. B--.  He was a native of Virginia, and an <HI REND="italics">alumnus</HI>
060.sgm: of its noble University.  He was a scholar, a fine lawyer, handsome and manly in person and bearing, and had the gift of popularity.  Though the youngest lawyer in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:town, he took a front place at the bar at once.  Over the heads of several older aspirants, he was elected county judge.  There was no ebb in the tide of his general popularity, and he had qualities that won the warmest regard of his inner circle of special friends.  But in this case, as in many others, success had its danger.  Hard drinking was the rule in those days.  Horace B-- had been one of the rare exceptions.  There was a reason for this extra prudence.  He had that peculiar susceptibility to alcoholic excitement which has been the ruin of so many gifted and noble men.  He knew his weakness, and it is strange that he did not continue to guard against the danger that he so well understood.  Strange?  No; this infatuation is so common in every-day life that we cannot call it strange.  There is some sort of fatal fascination that draws men with their eyes wide open into the very jaws of this hell of strong drink.  The most brilliant physician in San Francisco, in the prime of his magnificent young manhood, died of <HI REND="italics">delirium tremens</HI>
060.sgm:, the victim of a self-inflicted disease, whose horrors no one knew or could picture so well as himself.  Who says man is not a fallen, broken creature, and that there is not a devil at hand to tempt him?  This devil, under the guise of sociability, false pride, or moral cowardice, tempted Horace B--, and he yielded.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:Like tinder touched by flame, he blazed into drunkenness, and again and again the proud-spirited, manly, and cultured young lawyer and jurist was seen staggering along the streets, maudlin or mad with alcohol.  When he had slept off his madness, his humiliation was intense, and he walked the streets with pallid face and downcast eyes.  The coarser-grained men with whom he was thrown in contact had no conception of the mental tortures he suffered, and their rude jests stung him to the quick.  He despised himself as a weakling and a coward, but he did not get more than a transient victory over his enemy.  The spark had struck a sensitive organization, and the fire of hell, smothered for the time, would blaze out again.  He was fast becoming a common drunkard, the accursed appetite growing stronger, and his will weakening in accordance with that terrible law by which man's physical and moral nature visits retribution on all who cross its path.  During a term of the court over which he presided, he was taken home one night drunk.  A pistol-shot was heard by persons in the vicinity some time before daybreak; but pistol-shots, at all hours of the night, were then too common to excite special attention.  Horace B--was found next morning lying on the floor with a bullet through his head.  Many a stout, heavy-bearded man had wet eyes when the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>In the same town there was a portrait-painter, a quiet, pleasant fellow, with a good face and easy, gentlemanly ways.  As an artist, he was not without merit, but his gift fell short of genius.  He fell in love with a charming girl, the eldest daughter of a leading citizen.  She could not return his passion.  The enamored artist still loved, and hoped against hope, lingering near her like a moth around a candle.  There was another and more favored suitor in the case, and the rejected lover had all his hopes killed at one blow by her marriage to his rival.  He felt that without her life was not worth living.  He resolved to kill himself, and swallowed the contents of a two-ounce bottle of laudanum.  After he had done the rash deed, a reaction took place.  He told what he had done, and a physician was sent for.  Before the doctor's arrival, the deadly drug asserted its power, and this repentant suicide began to show signs of going into a sleep from which it was certain he would never awake.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"My God!  What have I done?" he exclaimed in horror.  "Do your best, boys, to keep me from going to sleep before the doctor gets here."</P>
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060.sgm:<P>The doctor came quickly, and by the prompt and very vigorous use of the stomach-pump he was saved.  I was sent for, and found the would-be suicide looking very weak, sick, silly, and sheepish.  He got well, and went on making pictures; but the picture of the fair, sweet girl, for love of whom he came so near dying, never faded from his mind.  His face always wore a sad look, and he lived the life of a recluse, but he never attempted suicide again--he had had enough of that.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"It always makes me shudder to look at that place," said a lady, as we passed an elegant cottage on the western side of Russian Hill, San Francisco.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Why so?  The place to me looks specially cheerful and attractive, with its graceful slope, its shrubbery, flowers, and thick greensward."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes, it is a lovely place, but it has a history that it shocks me to think of.  Do you see that tall pumping-apparatus, with water-tank on top, in the rear of the house?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes; what of it?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"A woman hanged herself there a year ago.  The family consisted of the husband and wife, and two bright, beautiful children.  He was thrifty and prosperous, she was an excellent housekeeper, and the children were healthy and well-behaved.  In appearance a happier family could not be found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>About dusk a sudden shriek was heard, issuing from the water-tank in the yard, and the Irish servant-girl came rushing from it, with eyes distended and face pale with terror.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Holy Mother of God!  It's the Missus that's hanged herself!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>The alarm spread, and soon a crowd, curious and sympathetic, had collected.  They found the poor lady suspended by the neck from a beam at the head of the staircase leading to the top of the inclosure.  She was quite dead, and a horrible sight to see.  At the inquest no facts were developed throwing any light on the tragedy.  There had been no cloud in the sky portending the lightning-stroke that laid the happy little home in ruins.  The husband testified that she was as bright and happy the morning of the suicide as he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>One of the most energetic business men living in one of the foot-hill towns, on the northern edge of the Sacramento Valley, had a charming wife, whom he loved with a deep and tender devotion.  As in all true love-matches, the passion of youth had ripened into a yet stronger and purer love with the lapse of years and participation in the joys and sorrows of wedded life.  Their union had been blessed with five children, all intelligent, sweet, and full of promise.  It was a very affectionate and happy household.  Both parents possessed considerable literary taste and culture, and the best books and current magazine literature were read, discussed, and enjoyed in that quiet and elegant home amid the roses and evergreens.  It was a little paradise in the hills, where Love, the home-angel, brightened every room and blessed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I see our way out of these troubles, wife," he said one night, as they sat hand in hand in the bed-chamber, where the children were lying asleep.  "We will all die together!  This has been revealed to me as the solution of all our difficulties.  Yes, we will enter the beautiful spirit-world together!  This is freedom!  It is only getting out of prison.  Bright spirits beckon and call us.  I am ready."</P>
060.sgm:<P>There was a gleam of madness in his eyes, and, as he took a pistol from a bureau-drawer, an answering gleam flashed forth from the eyes of the wife, as she said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes, love, we will all go together.  I too am ready."</P>
060.sgm:<P>The sleeping children were breathing sweetly, unmindful of the horror that the devil was hatching.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"The children first, then you, and then me," he said, his eye kindling with increasing excitement.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He penciled a short note addressed to one of his old friends, asking him to attend to the burial of the bodies, then they kissed each of the sleeping children, and then--but let the curtain fall on the scene that followed.  The seven were found next day lying dead, a bullet through the brain of each, the murderer, by the side of the wife, still holding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>Other pictures of real life and death crowd upon my mind, among them noble forms and faces that were near and dear to me; but again I hear the appealing voices.  The page before me is wet with tears--I cannot see to write.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FATHER FISHER.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>HE came to California in 1855.  The Pacific Conference was in session at Sacramento.  It was announced that the new preacher from Texas would preach at night.  The boat was detained in some way, and he just had time to reach the church, where a large and expectant congregation were in waiting.  Below medium height, plainly dressed, and with a sort of peculiar shuffling movement as he went down the aisle, he attracted no special notice except for the profoundly reverential manner that never left him anywhere.  But the moment he faced his audience and spoke, it was evident to them that a man of mark stood before them.  They were magnetized at once, and every eye was fixed upon the strong yet benignant face, the capacious blue eyes, the ample forehead, and massive head, bald on top, with silver locks on either side.  His tones in reading the Scripture and the hymns were unspeakably solemn and very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:musical.  The blazing fervor of the prayer that followed was absolutely startling to some of the preachers, who had cooled down under the depressing influence of the moral atmosphere of the country.  It almost seemed as if we could hear the rush of the pentecostal wind, and see the tongues of flame.  The very house seemed to be rocking on its foundations.  By the time the prayer had ended, all were in a glow, and ready for the sermon.  The text I do not now call to mind, but the impression made by the sermon remains.  I had seen and heard preachers who glowed in the pulpit--this man burned.  His words poured forth in a molten flood, his face shone like a furnace heated from within, his large blue eyes flashed with the lightning of impassioned sentiment, and anon swam in pathetic appeal that no heart could resist.  Body, brain, and spirit, all seemed to feel the mighty afflatus.  His very frame seemed to expand, and the little man who had gone into the pulpit with shuffling step and downcast eyes was transfigured before us.  When, with radiant face, upturned eyes, an upward sweep of his arm, and trumpet-voice, heshouted, "Halleluiah to God!" the tide of emotion broke over all barriers, the people rose to their feet, and the church ree&uml;choed with their responsive halleluiahs.  The new preacher from Texas that night gave some Californians a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"He is the man we want for San Francisco!" exclaimed the impulsive B. T. Crouch, who had kindled into a generous enthusiasm under that marvelous discourse.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He was sent to San Francisco.  He was one of a company of preachers who have successively had charge of the Southern Methodist Church in that wondrous city inside the Golden Gate--Boring, Evans, Fisher, Fitzgerald, Gober, Brown, Bailey, Wood, Miller, Ball, Hoss, Chamberlin, Mahon, Tuggle, Simmons, Henderson.  There was an almost unlimited diversity of temperament, culture, and gifts among these men; but they all had a similar experience in this, that San Francisco gave them new revelations of human nature and of themselves.  Some went away crippled and scarred, some sad, some broken; but perhaps in the Great Day it may be found that for each and all there was a hidden blessing in the heart-throes of a service that seemed to demand that they should sow in bitter tears, and know no joyful reaping this side of the grave.  O my brothers, who have felt the fires of that furnace heated seven times hotter than usual, shall we not in the resting-place beyond the river realize that these fires burned out of us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Fisher did not succeed in San Francisco, because he could not get a hearing.  A little handful would meet him on Sunday mornings in one of the upper-rooms of the old City Hall, and listen to sermons that sent them away in a religious glow, but he had no leverage for getting at the masses.  He was no adept in the methods by which the modern sensational preacher compels the attention of the novelty-loving crowds in our cities.  An evangelist in every fiber of his being, he chafed under the limitations of his charge in San Francisco, and from time to time he would make a dash into the country, where, at camp-meetings and on other special occasions, he preached the gospel with a power that broke many a sinner's heart, and with a persuasiveness that brought many a wanderer back to the Good Shepherd's fold.  His bodily energy, like his religious zeal, was unflagging.  It seemed little less than a miracle that he could, day after day, make such vast expenditure of nervous energy without exhaustion.  He put all his strength into every sermon and exhortation, whether addressed to admiring and weeping thousands at a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>He had his trials and crosses.  Those who knew him intimately learned to expect his mightiest pulpit efforts when the shadow on his face and the unconscious sigh showed that he was passing through the waters and crying to God out of the depths.  In such experiences, the strong man is revealed and gathers new strength; the weak one goes under.  But his strength was more than mere natural force of will, it was the strength of a mighty faith in God--that unseen force by which the saints work righteousness, subdue kingdoms, escape the violence of fire, and stop the mouths of lions.</P>
060.sgm:<P>As a flame of fire, Fisher itinerated all over California and Oregon, kindling a blaze of revival in almost every place he touched.  He was mighty in the Scriptures, and seemed to know the Book by heart.  His was no rose-water theology.  He believed in a hell, and pictured it in Bible language with a vividness and awfulness that thrilled the stoutest sinner's heart; he believed in heaven, and spoke of it in such a way that it seemed that with him faith had already changed to sight.  The gates of pearl, the crystal river, the shining ranks of the white-robed throngs, their songs swelling as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I have been out of the body," he said to me one day.  The words were spoken softly, and his countenance, always grave in its aspect, deepened in its solemnity of expression as he spoke.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"How was that?"  I inquired.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"It was in Texas.  I was returning from a quarterly-meeting where I had preached one Sunday morning with great liberty and with unusual effect.  The horses attached to my vehicle became frightened, and ran away.  They were wholly beyond control, plunging down the road at a fearful speed, when, by a slight turn to one side, the wheel struck a large log.  There was a concussion, and then a blank.  The next thing I knew I was floating in the air above the road.  I saw every thing as plainly as I see your face at this moment.  There lay my body in the road, there lay the log, and there were the trees, the fence, the fields, and every thing, perfectly natural.  My motion, which had been upward, was arrested, and as, poised in the air, I looked at my body lying there in the road <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>His voice had sunk into a sort of whisper, and the tears were in his eyes.  I was strangely thrilled.  Both of us were silent for a time, as if we heard the echoes of voices, and saw the beckonings of shadowy hands from that Other World which sometimes seems so far away, and yet is so near to each one of us.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Surely you heaven, where angels see God's face,<LB>Is not so distant as we deem<LB>From this low earth.  'T is but a little space,<LB>'T is but a veil the winds might blow aside;<LB>Yes, this all that us of earth divide<LB>From the bright dwellings of the glorified,<LB>The land of which I dream.<LB></HI>
060.sgm:<P>But it was no dream to this man of mighty faith, the windows of whose soul opened at all times Godward.  To him immortality was a demonstrated fact, an experience.  He had been out of the body.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Intensity was his dominating quality.  He wrote <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:verses, and whatever they may have lacked of the subtle element that marks poetical genius, they were full of his ardent personality and devotional <HI REND="italics">abandon</HI>
060.sgm:<P>I saw in the <HI REND="italics">Texas Christian Advocate</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"About ten years ago," says Dr. M., "when the train from Houston, on the Central Railroad, on one occasion reached Hempstead, it was peremptorily brought to a halt.  There was a strike among the <HI REND="italics">employe&acute;s</HI>
060.sgm: of the road, on what was significantly called by the strikers `The Death-warrant.'  The road, it seems, had required all of their <HI REND="italics">employe&acute;s</HI>
060.sgm: to sign a paper renouncing all claims to moneyed reparation in case of their bodily injury while in the service of the road.  The excitement incident <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:to a strike was at its height at Hempstead when our train reached there.  The tracks were blocked with trains that had been stopped as they arrived from the different branches of the road, and the <HI REND="italics">employe&acute;s</HI>
060.sgm: were gathered about in groups, discussing the situation--the passengers peering around with hopeless curiosity.  When our train stopped, the conductor told us that we would have to lie over all night, and many of the passengers left to find accommodations in the hotels of the town.  It was now night, when a man came into the car and exclaimed, `The strikers are tarring and feathering a poor wretch out here, who has taken sides with the road--come out and see it!'  Nearly every one in the car hastened out.  I had risen, when a gentleman behind me gently pulled my coat, and said to me, `Sit down a moment.'  He went on to say: `I judge, sir, you are a clergyman; and I advise you to remain here.  You may be put to much inconvenience by having to appear as a witness; in a mob of that sort, too, there is no telling what may follow.'  I thanked him, and resumed my seat.  He then asked me to what denomination I belonged, and upon my telling him I was a Methodist preacher, he asked eagerly and promptly if I had ever met a Methodist preacher in Texas by the name of Fisher, describing accurately the appearance of our glorified brother.  Upon my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"`I am a Californian, have practiced law for years in that State, and, at the time I allude to, was district judge.  I was holding court at--[I cannot now recall the name of the town he mentioned], and on Saturday was told that a Methodist camp-meeting was being held a few miles from town.  I determined to visit it, and reached the place of meeting in good time to hear the great preacher of the occasion--Father Fisher.  The meeting was held in a river <HI REND="italics">can&tilde;on</HI>
060.sgm:.  The rocks towered hundreds of feet on either side, rising over like an arch.  Through the ample space over which the rocks hung the river flowed, furnishing abundance of cool water, while a pleasant breeze fanned a shaded spot.  A great multitude had assembled--hundreds of very hard cases, who had gathered there, like myself, for the mere novelty of the thing.  I am not a religious man--never have been thrown under religious influences.  I respect religion, and respect its teachers, but have been very little in contact with religious things.  At the appointed time, the preacher rose.  He was small, with white hair combed back from his forehead, and he wore a venerable beard.  I do not know much about the Bible, and I cannot quote <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:from his text, but he preached on the Judgement.  I tell you, sir, I have heard eloquence at the bar and on the hustings, but I never heard such eloquence as that old preacher gave us that day.  At the last, when he described the multitudes calling on the rocks and mountains to fall on them, I instinctively looked up to the arching rocks above me.  Will you believe it, sir?--as I looked up, to my horror I saw the walls of the <HI REND="italics">can&tilde;on</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"When he had closed his narrative, I said to him: `Judge, I hope you have bowed frequently since that day.'  `Alas! no, sir,' he replied; `not much; but depend upon it, Father Fisher is a wonderful orator--he made me think that day that the walls of the <HI REND="italics">can&tilde;on</HI>
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060.sgm:<P>He went back to Texas, the scene of his early labors and triumphs, to die.  His evening sky was not cloudless--he suffered much--but his sunset was calm and bright; his waking in the Morning Land was glorious.  If it was at that short period of silence spoken of in the Apocalypse, we may be sure it was broken when Fisher went in.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>JACK WHITE.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>THE only thing white about him was his name.  He was a Piute Indian, and Piutes are neither white nor pretty.  There is only one being in human shape uglier than a Piute "buck"--and that is a Piute squaw.  One I saw at the Sink of the Humboldt haunts me yet.  Her hideous face, begrimed with dirt and smeared with yellow paint, bleared and leering eyes, and horrid long, flapping breasts--ugh! it was a sight to make one feel sick.  A degraded woman is the saddest spectacle on earth.  Shakespeare knew what he was doing when he made the witches in Macbeth of the feminine gender.  But as you look at them you almost forget that these Piute hags are women--they seem a cross between brute and devil.  The unity of the human race is a fact which I accept; but some of our brothers and sisters are far gone from original loveliness.  If Eve could see these Piute women, she would not be in a hurry to claim them as her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>There was a mystery about Jack White's early life.  He was born in the sage-brush desert beyond the Sierras, and, like all Indian babies, doubtless had a hard time at the outset.  A Christian's pig or puppy is as well cared for as a Piute papoose.  Jack was found in a deserted Indian camp in the mountains.  He had been left to die, and was taken charge of by the kind-hearted John M.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Moving to the beautiful San Ramon Valley, not far from the Bay of San Francisco, the Whites took Jack with them.  They taught him the leading doctrines and facts of the Bible, and made him useful in domestic service.  He grew and thrived.  Broad-shouldered, muscular, and straight as an arrow, Jack was admired for his strength and agility by the white boys with whom he was brought into contact.  Though not quarrelsome, he had a steady courage that, backed by his great strength, inspired respect and insured good treatment from them.  Growing up amid these influences, his features were softened into a civilized expression, and his tawny face was not unpleasing.  The heavy under-jaw and square forehead gave him an appearance of hardness which was greatly relieved by the honest look out of his eyes, and the smile which now and then would slowly creep over his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>I first knew Jack at Santa Rosa, of which beautiful town his patron, Mr. White, was then the marshal.  Jack came to my Sunday-school, and was taken into a class of about twenty boys taught by myself.  They were the noisy element of the school, ranging from ten to fifteen years of age--too large to show the docility of the little lads, but not old enough to have attained the self-command and self-respect that come later in life.  Though he was much older than any of them, and heavier than his teacher, this class suited Jack.  The white boys all liked him, and he like me.  We had grand times with that class.  The only way to keep them in order was to keep them very busy.  The plan of having them answer in concert was adopted with decided results.  It kept them awake--and the whole school with them, for California boys have strong lungs.  Twenty boys speaking all at once, with eager excitement and flashing eyes, waked the drowsiest drone in the room.  A gentle hint was given now and then to take a little lower key.  In these lessons, Jack's deep guttural tones came in with marked effect, and it was delightful to see how he enjoyed it all.  And the singing made his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>The truths of the gospel took strong hold of Jack's mind, and his inquiries indicated a deep interest in the matter of religion.  I was therefore not surprised when, during a protracted-meeting in the town, Jack became one of the converts; but there was surprise and delight among the brethren at the class-meeting when Jack rose in his place and told what great things the Lord had done for him, dwelling with special emphasis on the words, "I am happy, because I know Jesus takes my sins away--I know he takes my sins away."  His voice melted into softness, and a tear trickled down his cheek as he spoke; and when Dan Duncan, the leader, crossed over the room and grasped his hand in a burst of joy, there was a glad chorus of rejoicing Methodists over Jack White, the Piute convert.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Jack never missed a service at the church, and in the social-meetings he never failed to tell the story of his new-born joy and hope, and always with thrilling effect, as he repeated with trembling voice, "I am happy, because I know Jesus takes my sins away."  Sin was a reality with Jack, and the pardon of sin the most wonderful of all facts.  He never tired of telling it; it opened a new world <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Jack's baptism was a great event.  It was by immersion, the first baptism of the kind I ever performed--and almost the last.  Jack had been talked to on the subject by some zealous brethren of another "persuasion," who magnified that mode, and though he was willing to do as I advised in the matter, he was evidently a little inclined to the more spectacular way of receiving the ordinance.  Mrs. White suggested that it might save future trouble, and "spike a gun."  So Jack, with four others, was taken down to Santa Rosa Creek, that went rippling and sparkling along the southern edge of the town, and duly baptized in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost.  A great crowd covered the bridge just below, and the banks of the stream; and when Wesley Mock, the Asaph of Santa Rosa Methodism, struck up <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>O happy day that fixed my choice<LB>On thee, my Saviour and my God,<LB></HI>
060.sgm:<P>and the chorus--<LB><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Happy day, happy day, when Jesus washed my sins away,<LB></HI>
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060.sgm:<P>was swelled by hundreds of voices, it was a glad moment for Jack White and all of us.  Religiously it was a warm time; but the water was very cold, it being one of the chilliest days I ever felt in that genial climate.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You were rather awkward, Brother Fitzgerald, in immersing those persons," said my stalwart friend, Elder John McCorkle, of the "Christian" or Campbellite Church, who had critically but not unkindly watched the proceedings from the bridge. "If you will send for me the next time, I will do it for you," he added, pleasantly.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I fear it was awkwardly done, for the water was very cold, and a shivering man cannot be very graceful in his movements.  I would have done better in a baptistery, with warm water and a rubber suit.  But of all the persons I have welcomed into the Church during my ministry, the reception of no one has given me more joy than that of Jack White, the Piute Indian.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Jack's heart yearned for his own people.  He wanted to tell them of Jesus, who could take away their sins; and perhaps his Indian instinct made him long for the freedom of the hills.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I am going to my people," he said to me; "I want to tell them of Jesus.  You will pray for me?" he added, with a quiver in his voice and a heaving chest.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>He went away, and I have never seen him since.  Where he is now, I know not.  I trust I may meet him on Mount Sion, with the harpers harping with their harps, and singing, as it were, a new song before the throne.</P>
060.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Postscript</HI>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE RABBI.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>SEATED in his library, enveloped in a faded figured gown, a black velvet cap on his massive head, there was an Oriental look about him that arrested your attention at once.  Power and gentleness, child-like simplicity, and scholarliness, were curiously mingled in this man.  His library was a reflex of its owner.  In it were books that the great public libraries of the world could not match--black-letter folios that were almost as old as the printing art, illuminated volumes that were once the pride and joy of men who had been in their graves many generations, rabbinical lore, theology, magic, and great volumes of Hebrew literature that looked, when placed beside a modern book, like an old ducal palace along-side a gingerbread cottage of to-day.  I do not think he ever felt at home amid the hurry and rush of San Francisco.  He could not adjust himself to the people.  He was devout, and they were intensely worldly.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:thundered this sentence from the teacher's desk in the synagogue one morning:  "O ye Jews of San Francisco, you have so fully given yourselves up to material things that you are losing the very instinct of immortality.  Your only idea of religion is to acquire the Hebrew language, <HI REND="italics">and you don't know that</HI>
060.sgm:<P>His belief in God and in the supernatural was starlingly vivid.  The Voice that spoke from Sinai was still audible to him, and the Arm that delivered Israel he saw still stretched out over the nations.  The miracles of the Old Testament were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"There was no need of any literal angel to shut the mouths of the lions to save Daniel; <HI REND="italics">the awful holiness of the prophet was enough</HI>
060.sgm:<P>His face glowed as he spoke, and his voice was subdued into a solemnity of tone that told how his reverent and adoring soul was thrilled with this vision of the coming glory of redeemed humanity.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He knew the New Testament by heart, as well as the Old.  The sayings of Jesus were often on his lips.</P>
060.sgm:<P>One day, in a musing, half-soliloquizing way, I heard him say:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"It is wonderful, wonderful! a Hebrew peasant from the hills of Galilee, without learning, noble birth, or power, subverts all the philosophies of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>He half whispered the words, and his eyes had the introspective look of a man who is thinking deeply.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He came to see me at our cottage on Post street one morning before breakfast.  In grading a street, a house in which I had lived and had the ill luck to own, on Pine street, had been undermined, and toppled over into the street below, falling on the slate-roof and breaking all to pieces.  He came to tell me of it, and to extend his sympathy.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I thought I would come first, so you might get the bad news from a friend rather than a stranger.  You have lost a house; but it is a small matter.  Your little boy there might have put out his eye with a pair of scissors, or he might have swallowed a pin and lost his life.  There are many things constantly taking place that are harder to bear than the loss of a house."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Many other wise words did the Rabbi speak, and before he left I felt that a house was indeed a small thing to grieve over.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He spoke with charming freedom and candor of all sorts of people.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Of Christians, the Unitarians have the best heads, and the Methodists the best hearts.  The Roman Catholics hold the masses, because they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Do you mean the literal restoration of the Jews to Palestine?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>He looked at me with an intense gaze, and hastened not to answer.  At last he spoke slowly:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"When the perturbed elements of religious thought crystallize into clearness and enduring forms, the chosen people will be one of the chief factors in reaching that final solution of the problems which convulse this age."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He was one of the speakers at the great Mortara indignation-meeting in San Francisco.  The speech of the occasion was that of Colonel Baker, the orator who went to Oregon, and in a single campaign magnetized the Oregonians so completely by his splendid eloquence that, passing by all their old party leaders, they sent him to the United States Senate.  No one who heard Baker's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"They tell us that the Jew is accursed of God.  This has been the plea of the bloody tyrants and robbers that oppressed and plundered them during the long ages of their exile and agony.  But the Almighty God executes his own judgments.  Woe to him who presumes to wield his thunderbolts!  They fall in blasting, consuming vengeance upon his own head.  God deals with his chosen people in judgment; but he says to men, Touch them at your peril!  They that spoil them shall be for a spoil; they that carried them away captive shall themselves go into captivity.  The Assyrian smote the Jew, and where is the proud Assyrian Empire?  Rome ground them under her iron heel, and where is the empire of the C&aelig;sars?  Spain smote the Jew, and where is her glory?  The desert sands cover the site of Babylon the Great.  The power that hurled the hosts of Titus against the holy city Jerusalem was shivered to pieces.  The banners of Spain, that floated in triumph over half the world, and fluttered in the breezes of every sea, is now the emblem of a glory that is gone, and the ensign of a power that has waned.  The Jews are in the hands of God.  He has dealt with them in judgment, but they are still the children <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>The words were something like these, but who could picture Baker's oratory?  As well try to paint a storm in the tropics.  Real thunder and lightning cannot be put on canvas.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The Rabbi made a speech, and it was the speech of a man who had come from his books and prayers.  He made a tender appeal for the mother and father of the abducted Jewish boy, and argued the question as calmly, and in as sweet a spirit, as if he had been talking over an abstract question in his study.  The vast crowd looked upon that strange figure with a sort of pleased wonder, and the Rabbi seemed almost unconscious of their presence.  He was as free from self-consciousness as a little child, and many a Gentile heart warmed that night to the simple-hearted sage who stood before them pleading for the rights of human nature.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The old man was often very sad.  In such moods he would come round to our cottage on Post street, and sit with us until late at night, unburdening his aching heart, and relaxing by degrees into a playfulness that was charming from its very awkwardness.  He would bring little picture-books for the children, pat them on their heads, and praise <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"No, no--my books and my poor school-children are enough for me."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He died suddenly and alone.  He had been out one windy night visiting the poor, came home sick, and before morning was in that world of spirits which was so real to his faith, and for which he longed.  He left his little fortune of a few thousand dollars to the poor of his native village of Posen, in Poland.  And thus passed from California-life Dr. Julius Eckman, the Rabbi.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MY MINING SPECULATION.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>"I BELIEVE the Lord has put me in the way of making a competency for my old age," said the dear old Doctor, as he seated himself in the arm-chair reserved for him at the cottage at North Beach.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"How?"  I asked.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I met a Texas man to-day, who told me of the discovery of an immensely rich silver mining district in Deep Spring Valley, Mono county, and he says he can get me in as one of the owners."</P>
060.sgm:<P>I laughingly made some remark expressive of incredulity.  The honest and benignant face of the old Doctor showed that he was a little nettled.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I have made full inquiry, and am sure this is no mere speculation.  The stock will not be put upon the market, and will not be assessable.  They propose to make me a trustee, and the owners, limited in number, will have entire control of the property.  But I will not be hasty in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>The next day I met the broad-faced Texan, and was impressed by him as the old Doctor had been.</P>
060.sgm:<P>It seemed a sure thing.  An old prospector had been equipped and sent out by a few gentlemen, and he had found outcroppings of silver in a range of hills extending not less than three miles.  Assays had been made of the ores, and they were found to be very rich.  All the timber and waterpower of Deep Spring Valley had been taken up for the company under the general and local preemption and mining laws.  It was a big thing.  The beauty of the whole arrangement was that no "mining sharps" were to be let in; we were to manage it ourselves, and reap all the profits.</P>
060.sgm:<P>We went into it, the old Doctor and I, feeling deeply grateful to the broad-faced Texan, who had so kindly given us the chance.  I was made a trustee, and began to have a decidedly business feeling as such.  At the meetings of "the board," my opinions were frequently called for, and were given with great gravity.  The money was paid for the shares I had taken, and the precious evidences of ownership were carefully put in a place of safety.  A mill was built near the richest of the claims, and the assays were good.  There were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>At this point I began to be troubled.  It seemed, from reasonable ciphering, that I should soon be a millionaire.  It made me feel solemn and anxious.  I lay awake at night, praying that I might not be spoiled by my good fortune.  The scriptures that speak of the deceitfulness of riches were called to mind, and I rejoiced with trembling.  Many beneficent enterprises were planned, principally in the line of endowing colleges, and paying church-debts.  (I had had an experience in this line.)  There were further delays, and more money was called for.  The ores were rebellious, and our "process" did not suit them.  Fryborg and Deep Spring Valley were not the same.  A new superintendent--one that understood rebellious ores--was employed at a higher salary.  He reported that all was right, and that we might expect "big news" in a few days, as he proposed to crush about seventy tons of the best rock, "by a new and improved process."</P>
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060.sgm:<P>The board held frequent meetings, and in view of the nearness of great results did not hesitate to meet the requisitions made for further outlays of money.  They resolved to pursue a prudent but vigorous policy in developing the vast property when the mill should be fairly in operation.</P>
060.sgm:<P>All this time I felt an under-current of anxiety lest I might sustain spiritual loss by my sudden accession to great wealth, and continued to fortify myself with good resolutions.</P>
060.sgm:<P>As a matter of special caution, I sent for a parcel of the ore, and had a private assay made of it.  The assay was good.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The new superintendent notified us that on a certain date we might look for a report of the result of the first great crushing and clean-up of the seventy tons of rock.  The day came.  On Kearny street I met one of the stockholders--a careful Presbyterian brother, who loved money.  He had a solemn look, and was walking slowly, as if in deep thought.  Lifting his eyes as we met, he saw me, and spoke:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">It is lead</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"What is lead?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Our silver mine in Deep Spring Valley."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Yes; from the seventy tons of rock we got eleven dollars in silver, and about fifty pounds of as good lead as was ever molded into bullets.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>The board held a meeting the next evening.  It was a solemn one.  The fifty-pound bar of lead was placed in the midst, and was eyed reproachfully.  I resigned my trusteeship, and they saw me not again.  That was my first and last mining speculation.  It failed somehow--but the assays were all very good.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MIKE REESE.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>I HAD business with him, and went at a business hour.  No introduction was needed, for he had been my landlord, and not tenant of his ever had reason to complain that he did not get a visit from him, in person or by proxy, at least once a month.  He was a punctual man--as a collector of what was due him.  Seeing that he was intently engaged, I paused and looked at him.  A man of huge frame, with enormous hands and feet, massive head, receding forehead, and heavy cerebral development, full sensual lips, large nose, and peculiar eyes that seemed at the same time to look through you and to shrink from your gaze--he was a man at whom a stranger would stop in the street to get a second gaze.  There he sat at his desk, too much absorbed to notice my entrance.  Before him lay a large pile of one-thousand-dollar United States Government bonds, and he was clipping of the coupons.  That face! it was a study as he sat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Good morning."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He turned as he spoke, and cast a look of scrutiny into my face which said plain enough that he wanted me to make known my business with him at once.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I told him what was wanted.  At the request of the official board of the Minna-street Church I had come to ask him to make a contribution toward the payment of its debt.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"O yes; I was expecting you.  They all come to me.  Father Gallagher, of the Catholic Church, Dr. Wyatt, of the Episcopal Church, and all the others, have been here.  I feel friendly to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:Churches, and I treat all alike--it won't do for me to be partial-- <HI REND="italics">I don't give to any</HI>
060.sgm:<P>That last clause was an anticlimax, dashing my hopes rudely; but I saw he meant it, and left.  I never heard of his departing from the rule of strict impartiality he had laid down for himself.</P>
060.sgm:<P>We met at times at a restaurant on Clay street.  He was a hearty feeder, and it was amusing to see how skillfully in the choice of dishes and the thoroughness with which he emptied them he could combine economy with plenty.  On several of these occasions, when we chanced to sit at the same table, I proposed to pay for both of us, and he quickly assented, his hard, heavy features lighting up with undisguised pleasure at the suggestion, as he shambled out of the room amid the smiles of the company present, most of whom knew him as a millionaire, and me as a Methodist preacher.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He had one affair of the heart.  Cupid played a prank on him that was the occasion of much merriment in the San Francisco newspapers, and of much grief to him.  A widow was his enslaver and tormentor--the old story.  She sued him for breach of promise of marriage.  The trial made great fun for the lawyers, reporters, and the amused public generally; but it was no fun for him.  He was mulcted for six thousand dollars and costs of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"You had better come another day--the old man has just paid that judgment in the breach of promise case, and he is in a bad way."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Hearing our voices, he said,</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Who is there?--come in."</P>
060.sgm:<P>I went in, and found him sitting leaning on his desk, the picture of intense wretchedness.  He was all unstrung, his jaw fallen, and a most pitiful face met mine as he looked up and said, in a broken voice,</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Come some other day--I can do no business to-day; I am very unwell."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He was indeed sick--sick at heart.  I felt sorry for him.  Pain always excites my pity, no matter what may be its cause.  He was a miser, and the payment of those thousands of dollars was like tearing him asunder.  He did not mind the jibes of the newspapers, but the loss of the money was almost killing.  He had not set his heart on popularity, but cash.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He had another special trouble, but with a different sort of ending.  It was discovered by a neighbor of his that, by some mismeasurement of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"What is the matter?" mused the puzzled citizen; "Reese has made some discovery that makes him think he has the upper-hand, else he would not talk this way."</P>
060.sgm:<P>And he sat and thought.  The instinct of this class of men where money is involved is like a miracle.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>"I have it!" he suddenly exclaimed; "Reese has the same hold on me that I have on him."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Reese happened to be the owner of another lot adjoining that of his enemy, on the other side.  It occurred to him that, as all these lots were surveyed at the same time by the same party, it was most likely that as his line had gone six inches too far on the one side, his enemy's had gone as much too far on the other.  And so it was.  He had quietly a survey made of the premises, and he chuckled with inward joy to find that he held this winning card in the unfriendly game.  With grim politeness the neighbors exchanged deeds for the two half feet of ground, and their war ended.  The moral of this incident is for him who hath wit enough to see it.</P>
060.sgm:<P>For several seasons he came every morning to North Beach to take sea-baths.  Sometimes he rode his well-known white horse, but oftener he walked.  He bathed in the open sea, making, as one expressed it, twenty-five cents out of the Pacific Ocean, by avoiding the bath-house.  Was this the charm that drew him forth so early?  It not seldom chanced that we walked down-town together.  At times he was quite communicative, speaking of himself in a way that was peculiar.  It seems he had thoughts of marrying before his episode with the widow.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>"Do you think a young girl of twenty could love an old man like me?" he asked me one day, as we were walking along the street.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I looked at his huge and ungainly bulk, and into his animal face, and made no direct answer.  Love!  Six millions of dollars is a great sum.  Money may buy youth and beauty, but love does not come at its call.  God's highest gifts are free; only the second-rate things can be bought with money.  Did this sordid old man yearn for pure human love amid his millions?  Did such a dream cast a momentary glamour over a life spent in raking among the muck-heaps?  If so, it passed away, for he never married.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He understood his own case.  He knew in what estimation he was held by the public, and did not conceal his scorn for its opinion.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"My love of money is a disease.  My saving and hoarding as I do is irrational, and I know it.  It pains me to pay five cents for a street-car ride, or a quarter of a dollar for a dinner.  My pleasure in accumulating property is morbid, but I have felt it from the time I was a foot-peddler in Charlotte, Campbell, and Pittsylvania counties, in Virginia, until now.  It is a sort of insanity, and it is incurable; but it is about as good a form of madness as any, and all the world is mad in some fashion."</P>
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060.sgm:<P>This was the substance of what he said of himself when in one of his moods of free speech, and it gave me a new idea of human nature--a man whose keen and penetrating brain could subject his own consciousness to a cool and correct analysis, seeing clearly the folly which he could not resist.  The autobiography of such a man might furnish a curious psychological study, and explain the formation and development in society of those moral monsters called misers.  Nowhere in literature has such a character been fully portrayed, though Shakespeare and George Eliot have given vivid touches of some of its features.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He always retained a kind feeling for the South, over whose hills he had borne his peddler's pack when a youth.  After the war, two young ex-Confederate soldiers came to San Francisco to seek their fortunes.  A small room adjoining my office was vacant, and the brothers requested me to secure it for them as cheap as possible.  I applied to Reese, telling him who the young men were, and describing their broken and impecunious condition.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Tell them to take the room free of rent--but it ought to bring five dollars a month."</P>
060.sgm:<P>It took a mighty effort, and he sighed as he spoke the words.  I never heard of his acting similarly in any other case, and I put this down to his credit, glad to know that there was a warm spot in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>His health failed, and he crossed the seas.  Perhaps he wished to visit his native hills in Germany, which he had last seen when a child.  There he died, leaving all his millions to his kindred, save a bequest of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars to the University of California.  What were his last thoughts, what was his final verdict concerning human life, I know not.  Empty-handed he entered the world of spirits, where, the film fallen from his vision, he saw the Eternal Realities.  What amazement must have followed his awakening!</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>UNCLE NOLAN.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>HE was black and ugly; but it was an ugliness that did not disgust or repel you.  His face had a touch both of the comic and the pathetic.  His mouth was very wide, his lips very thick and the color of a ripe damson, blue-black; his nose made up in width what it lacked in elevation; his ears were big, and bent forward; his eyes were a dull white, on a very dark ground; his wool was white and thick.  His age might be anywhere along from seventy onward.  A black man's age, like that of a horse, becomes dubious after reaching a certain stage.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He came to the class-meeting in the Pine-street Church, in San Francisco, one Sabbath morning.  He asked leave to speak, which was granted.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Bredren, I come here sometime ago, from Vicksburg, Mississippi, where I has lived forty year, or more.  I heered dar was a culud church up on de hill, an' I thought I'd go an' washup wid 'em.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:went dar three or fo' Sundays, but I foun' deir ways did n't suit me, an' my ways did n't suit dem.  Dey was Yankees' niggers, an' [proudly] I's a Southern man myself.  Sumbody tole me dar was a Southern Church down here on Pine street, an' I thought I'd cum an' look in.  Soon 's I got inside de church, an' look roun' a minit, I feels at home.  Dey look like home-folks; de preacher preach like home-folks; de people sing like home-folks.  Yer see, chillun, I'se a Southern man myself [emphatically], and I'se a Southern Methodis'.  Dis is de Church I was borned in, an' dis is de Church I was <HI REND="italics">rarred</HI>
060.sgm: in, an' [with great energy] dis is de Church which de Scripter says de gates ob hell shall not prevail ag'in it! ["Amen!" from Father Newman and others.]  When dey heerd I was comin' to dis Church, some ob 'em got arter me 'bout it.  Dey say dis Church was a enemy to de black people, and dat dey was in favor ob slavery.  I tole 'em de Scripter said, `Love your enemies,' an' den I took de Bible an' read what it says about slavery--I can read some, chillun--`Servants, obey yer masters in all things, not wid eye-service, as men-pleasers, but as unto de Lord;' and so on.  But, bless yer souls, chillun, dey would n't lis'en to dat-- <HI REND="italics">so I foun' out dey was abberlishen niggers, an' I lef' 'em</HI>
060.sgm:<P>Yes, he left them, and came to us.  I received <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Yer ought ter be killed fer goin'ter dat Southern Church," said one of his colored acquaintances one day, as they met in the street.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Kill me, den," said Uncle Nolan, with proud humility; "kill me, den; yer can't cheat me out ob many days, nohow."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He made a living, and something over, by rag-picking at North Beach and elsewhere, until the Chinese entered into competition with him, and then it was hard times for Uncle Nolan.  His eye-sight partially failed him, and it was pitiful to see him on the beach, his threadbare garments fluttering in the wind, groping amid the rubbish for rags, or shuffling along the streets with a huge sack on his back, and his old felt hat tied under his nose with a string, picking his way carefully to spare his swollen feet, which were tied up with bagging and woolens.  His religious fervor never cooled; I never heard him complain.  He never ceased to be joyously thankful for two things--his freedom and his religion.  But, strange as it may seem, he was a pro-slavery man to the last.  Even after the war, he stood to his opinion.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>"Dem niggers in de South thinks dey is free, but dey ain't.  'Fore it's all ober, all dat ain't dead will be glad to git back to deir masters," he would say.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Yet he was very proud of his own freedom, and took the utmost care of his free-papers.  He had no desire to resume his former relation to the peculiar and patriarchal institution.  He was not the first philosopher who has had one theory for his fellows, and another for himself.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Uncle Nolan would talk of religion by the hour.  He never tired of that theme.  His faith was simple and strong, but, like most of his race, he had a tinge of superstition.  He was a dreamer of dreams, and he believed in them.  Here is one which he recited to me.  His weird manner, and low, chanting tone, I must leave to the imagination of the reader:</P>
060.sgm:<P>UNCLE NOLAN'S DREAM.<LB>A tall black man came along, an' took me by de arm, an' tole me he had come for me.  I said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"What yer want wid me?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I come to carry yer down into de darkness."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"What for?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"'Cause you didn't follow de Lord."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Wid dat, he pulled me 'long de street till he come to a big black house, de biggest house an' de thickest walls I eber seed.  We went in a little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:do', an' den he took me down a long sta'rs in de dark, till we come to a big do'; we went inside, an' den de big black man locked de do' behin' us.  An' so we kep' on, goin' down, an' goin' down, an' goin' down, an' he kep' lockin' dem big iron do's behin' us, an' all de time it was pitch dark, so I couldn't see him, but he still hel' on ter me.  At las' we stopped, an' den he started to go 'way.  He locked de do' behin' him, an' I heerd him goin' up de steps de way we come, lockin' all de do's behin' him as he went.  I tell you, dat was dreafful when I heerd dat big key turn on de outside, an' me 'way down, down, down, dar in de dark all alone, an' no chance eber to git out!  An' I knowed it was 'cause I didn't foller de Lord.  I felt roun' de place, an' dar was nothin' but de thick walls an' de great iron do'.  Den I sot down an' cried, 'cause I knowed I was a los' man.  Dat was de same as hell [his voice sinking into a whisper], an' all de time I knowed I was dar, 'cause I hadn't follered de Lord.  Bymeby somethin' say, "Pray."  Somethin' keep sayin', "Pray."  Den I drap on my knees an' prayed.  I tell you, no man eber prayed harder'n I did!  I prayed, an' prayed, an' prayed!  What's dat?  Dar's somebody a-comin' down dem steps; dey's unlockin' de do'; an' de fus' thing I knowed, de place was all lighted up bright as day, an' a white-faced man stood by me, wid a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>In his prayers, and class-meeting and love-feast talks, Uncle Nolan showed a depth of spiritual insight truly wonderful, and the effects of these talks were frequently electrical.  Many a time have I seen the Pine-street brethren and sisters rise from their knees, at the close of one of his prayers, melted into tears, or thrilled to religious rapture, by the power of his simple faith, and the vividness of his sanctified imagination.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He held to his pro-slavery views and guarded his own freedom-papers to the last; and when he died, in 1875, the last colored Southern Methodist in California was transferred from the Church militant to the great company that no man can number, gathered out of every nation, and tribe, and kindred, on the earth.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>BUFFALO JONES.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>THAT is what the boys called him.  His real Christian name was Zachariah.  The way he got the name he went by was this: He was a Methodist, and prayed in public.  He was excitable, and his lungs were of extraordinary power.  When fully aroused, his voice sounded, it was said, like the bellowing of a whole herd of buffaloes.  It had peculiar reverberations--rumbling, roaring, shaking the very roof of the sanctuary, or echoing among the hills when let out at its utmost strength at a camp-meeting.  This is why they called him Buffalo Jones.  It was his voice.  There never was such another.  In Ohio he was a blacksmith and a fighting man.  He had whipped every man who would fight him, in a whole tier of counties.  He was converted after the old way; that is to say, he was "powerfully" converted.  A circuit-rider preached the sermon that converted him.  His anguish was awful.  The midnight hour found him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:in tears.  The Ohio forest resounded with his cries for mercy.  When he found peace, it swelled into rapture.  He joined the Church militant among the Methodists, and he stuck to them, quarreled with them, and loved them, all his life.  He had many troubles, and gave much trouble to many people.  The old Adam died hard in the fighting blacksmith.  His pastor, his family, his friends, his fellow-members in the Church, all got a portion of his wrath in due season, if they swerved a hair-breadth from the straight-line of duty as he saw it.  I was his pastor, and I never had a truer friend, or a severer censor.  One Sunday morning he electrified my congregation, at the close of the sermon, by rising-in his place and making a personal application of a portion of it to individuals present, and insisting on their immediate expulsion from the Church.  He had another side to his character, and at times was as tender as a woman.  He acted as class-leader.  In his melting moods he moved every eye to tears, as he passed round among the brethren and sisters, weeping, exhorting, and rejoicing.  At such times, his great voice softened into a pathos that none could resist, and swept the chords of sympathy with resistless power.  But when his other mood was upon him, he was fearful.  He scourged the unfaithful with a whip of fire.  He would quote with a singular fluency <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Sister, do you ever pray?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>The startled woman nearly sprang from her seat in a panic as she stammered hurriedly,</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; yes, sir."</P>
060.sgm:<P>She did not attend his class-meeting again.</P>
060.sgm:<P>At a camp-meeting he was present, and in one of his bitterest moods.  The meeting was not conducted in a way to suit him.  He was grim, critical, and contemptuous, making no concealment of his dissatisfaction.  The preaching displeased him particularly.  He groned, frowned, and in other ways showed his feelings.  At length he could stand it no longer.  A young brother had just closed a sermon of a mild and persuasive kind, and no sooner had he taken his seat than the old man arose.  Looking forth upon the vast audience, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"You preachers of these days have no gospel in you.  You remind me of a man going into his barn-yard early in the morning to feed his stock.  He has a basket on his arm, and here come the horses nickering, the cows lowing, the calves and sheep bleating, the hogs squealing, the turkeys gobbling, the hens clucking, and the roosters crowing.  They all gather round him, expecting to be fed, and lo, his basket is empty!  You take texs, and you preach, but you have no gospel.  Your baskets are empty."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Here he darted a defiant glance at the astonished preachers, and then, turning to one, he added in a milder and patronizing tone:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You, Brother Sim, do preach a little gospel--in your basket there is <HI REND="italics">one little nubbin</HI>
060.sgm:<P>Down he sat, leaving the brethren to meditate on what he had said.  The silence that followed was deep.</P>
060.sgm:<P>At one time his conscience became troubled about the use of tobacco, and he determined to quit.  This was the second great struggle of his life.  He was running a saw-mill in the foot-hills at the time, and lodged in a little cabin near by.  Suddenly deprived of the stimulant to which it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"I was resolved to conquer, and by the grace of God I did," he said.</P>
060.sgm:<P>That was a great victory for the fighting blacksmith.</P>
060.sgm:<P>When a melodeon was introduced into the church, he was sorely grieved and furiously angry.  He argued against it, he expostulated, he protested, he threatened, he staid away from church.  He wrote me a letter, in which he expressed his feelings thus:</P>
060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>San Jose&acute;, 1860.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>DEAR BROTHER:--They have got the devil into the church now!  Put your foot on its tail and it squeals.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Z. JONES.</P>
060.sgm:<P>This was his figurative way of putting it.  I was told that he had, on a former occasion, dealt with the question in a more summary way, by taking his ax and splitting a melodeon to pieces.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Neutrality in politics was, of course, impossible to such a man.  In the civil war his heart was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"It is all over--the praying man is gone," he said; and he sobbed like a child.  From that day he had no hope for the Confederacy, though once or twice, when feeling ran high, he expressed a readiness to use carnal weapons in defense of his political principles.  For all his opinions on the subject he found support from the Bible, which he read and studied with unwearying diligence.  He took its words literally on all occasions, and the Old Testament history had a wonderful charm for him.  He would have been ready to hew any modern Agag in pieces before the Lord.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He finally found his way to the Insane Asylum.  The reader has already seen how abnormal was his mind, and will not be surprised that his stormtossed soul lost its rudder at last.  But mid all its veerings he never lost sight of the Star that had shed its light upon his checkered path of life.  He raved, and prayed, and wept, by turns.  The horrors of mental despair would be followed by gleams of seraphic joy.  When one of his stormy moods was upon him, his mighty voice could be heard above all the sounds of that sad and pitiful company of broken and wrecked souls.  The old class-meeting instinct and habit showed itself in his semi-lucid intervals.  He would go round among <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Now, Rogers, you must pray.  If you will get down at the feet of Jesus, and confess your sins, and ask him to bless you, he will hear you, and give you peace.  But if you won't do it," he continued, with growing excitement and kindling anger at the thought, "you are the most infernal rascal that ever lived, and I'll beat you into a jelly!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>The good Doctor had to interfere at this point, for the old man was in the very act of carrying out his threat to punish Rogers bodily, on the bare possibility that he would not pray as he was told to do.  And so that extemporized class-meeting came to an abrupt end.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Pray with me," he said to me the last time I saw him at the Asylum.  Closing the door of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TOD ROBINSON.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>THE image of this man of many moods and brilliant genius that rises most distinctly to my mind is that connected with a little prayer-meeting in the Minna-street Church, San Francisco, one Thursday night.  His thin silver locks, his dark flashing eye, his graceful pose, and his musical voice, are before me.  His words I have not forgotten, but their electric effect must forever be lost to all except the few who heard them.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I have been taunted with the reproach that it was only after I was a broken and disappointed man in my worldly hopes and aspirations that I turned to religion.  The taunt is just"--here he bowed his head, and paused with deep emotion--"the taunt is just.  I bow my head in shame, and take the blow.  My earthly hopes have faded and fallen one after another.  The prizes that dazzled my imagination have eluded my grasp.  I am a broken, gray-haired man, and I bring to my God <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Glory be to Jesus!" exclaimed Father Newman, as the speaker, with swimming eyes, radiant face, and heaving chest, sunk into his seat.  I never heard any thing finer from mortal lips, but it seems cold to me as I read it here.  Oratory cannot be put on paper.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He was present once at a camp-meeting, at the famous Toll-gate Camp-ground, in Santa Clara Valley, near the city of San Jose&acute;.  It was Sabbath <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"This is a mount of transfiguration.  The transfiguration is on hill and valley, on tree and shrub, on grass and flower, on earth and sky.  It is on your faces that shine like the face of Moses when he came down from the awful mount where he met Jehovah face to face.  The same light is on your faces, for here is God's shekinah.  This is the gate of heaven.  I see its shining hosts, I hear the melody of its songs.  The angels of God encamped with us last night, and they linger with us this morning.  Tarry with us, ye sinless ones, for this is heaven on earth!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>He paused, with extended arm, gazing upward entranced.  The scene that followed beggars description.  By a simultaneous impulse all rose to their feet and pressed toward the speaker with awe-struck faces, and when Grandmother Rucker, the matriarch of the valley, with luminous face and uplifted eyes, broke into a shout, it swelled into a melodious hurricane that shook the very hills.  He ought to have been a preacher.  So he said to me once:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I felt the impulse and heard the call in my early manhood.  I conferred with flesh and blood, and was disobedient to the heavenly vision.  I have had some little success at the bar, on the hustings, and in legislative halls, but how paltry has it been in comparison with the true life and high career that might have been mine!"</P>
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060.sgm:<P>He was from the hill-country of North Carolina, and its flavor clung to him to the last.  He had his gloomy moods, but his heart was fresh as a Blue Ridge breeze in May, and his wit bubbled forth like a mountain-spring.  There was no bitterness in his satire.  The very victim of his thrust enjoyed the keenness of the stroke, for there was no poison in the weapon.  At times he seemed inspired, and you thrilled, melted, and soared, under the touches of this Western Coleridge.  He came to my room at the Golden Eagle, in Sacramento City, one night, and left at two o'clock in the morning.  He walked the floor and talked, and it was the grandest monologue I ever listened to.  One part of it I could not forget.  It was with reference to preachers who turn aside from their holy calling to engage in secular pursuits, or in politics.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"It is turning away from angels' food to feed on garbage.  Think of spending a whole life in contemplating the grandest things, and working for the most glorious ends, instructing the ignorant, consoling the sorrowing, winning the wayward back to duty and to peace, pointing the dying to Him who is the light and the life of men, animating the living to seek from the highest motives a holy life and a sublime destiny!  O it is a life that might draw an angel from the skies!  If there is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>He looked at me as he spoke, with flashing eyes and curled lip.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"That is all true and very fine, Judge, but it sounds just a little peculiar as coming from you."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I am the very man to say it, for I am the man who bitterly sees its truth.  Do not make the misstep that I did.  A man might well be willing to live on bread and water, and walk the world afoot, for the privilege of giving all his thoughts to the grandest themes, and all his service to the highest objects.  As a lawyer, my life has been spent in a prolonged quarrel about money, land, houses, cattle, thieving, slandering, murdering, and other villainy.  The little episodes of politics that have given variety to my career have only shown me the baseness of human nature, and the pettiness of human ambition.  There are men who will fill these places and do this work, and who want and will choose nothing better.  Let them have all the good they can get out of such things.  But the minister of the gospel who comes down from the height of his high calling to engage in this scramble does that which makes devils laugh and angels weep."</P>
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060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>This was the substance of what he said on this point.  I have never forgotten it.  I am glad he came to my room that night.  What else he said I cannot write, but the remembrance of it is like to that of a melody that lingers in my soul when the music has ceased.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I thank you for your sermon to-day--you never told a single lie."</P>
060.sgm:<P>This was his remark at the close of a service in Minna street one Sunday.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"What is the meaning of that remark?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"That the exaggerations of the pulpit repel thousands from the truth.  Moderation of statement is a rare excellence.  A deep spiritual insight enables a religious teacher to shade his meanings where it is required.  Deep piety is genius for the pulpit.  Mediocrity in native endowments, conjoined with spiritual stolidity in the pulpit, does more harm than all the open apostles of infidelity combined.  They take the divinity out of religion and kill the faith of those who hear them.  None but inspired men should stand in the pulpit.  Religion is not in the intellect merely.  The world by wisdom cannot know God.  The attempt to find out God by the intellect has always been, and always must be, the completest of failures.  Religion is the sphere of the supernatural, and stands not in the wisdom of men, but in the power of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, neither have entered into the heart of man, the things which God hath prepared for them that love him.  But God hath revealed them unto us by his Spirit</HI>
060.sgm:<P>Here was the secret he had learned, and that had brought a new joy and glory into his life as it neared the sunset.  The great change dated from a dark and rainy night as he walked home in Sacramento City.  Not more tangible to Saul of Tarsus was the vision, or more distinctly audible the voice that spoke to him on the way to Damascus, than was the revelation of Jesus Christ to this lawyer of penetrating intellect, large and varied reading, and sharp perception of human folly and weakness.  It was a case of conversion in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>AH LEE.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>HE was the sunniest of Mongolians.  The Chinaman, under favorable conditions, is not without a sly sense of humor of his peculiar sort; but to American eyes there is nothing very pleasant in his angular and smileless features.  The manner of his contact with many Californians is not calculated to evoke mirthfulness.  The brickbat may be a good political argument in the hands of a hoodlum, but it does not make its target playful.  To the Chinaman in America the situation is new and grave, and he looks sober and holds his peace.  Even the funny-looking, be-cued little Chinese children wear a look of solemn inquisitiveness, as they toddle along the streets of San Francisco by the side of their queer-looking mothers.  In his own land, over-populated and misgoverned, the Chinaman has a hard fight for existence.  In these United States his advent is regarded somewhat in the same spirit as that of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>Ah Lee was an exception.  His skin was almost fair, his features almost Caucasian in their regularity; his dark eye lighted up with a peculiar brightness, and there was a remarkable buoyancy and glow about him every way.  He was about twenty years old.  How long he had been in California I know not.  When he came into my office to see me the first time, he rushed forward and impulsively grasped my hand, saying:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"My name Ah Lee--you Doctor Plitzjellie?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>That was the way my name sounded as he spoke it.  I was glad to see him, and told him so.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You makee Christian newspaper?  You talkee Jesus?  Mr. Taylor tellee me.  Me Christian--me love Jesus."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Yes, Ah Lee was a Christian; there could be no doubt about that.  I have seen many happy converts, but none happier than he.  He was not merely happy--he was ecstatic.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The story of the mighty change was a simple one, but thrilling.  Near Vacaville, the former seat of the Pacific Methodist College, in Solana county, lived the Rev. Iry Taylor, a member of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Ah Lee was converted--converted as Paul, as Augustine, as Wesley, were converted.  He was born into a new life that was as real to him as his consciousness was real.  This psychological change will be understood by some of my readers; others may regard it as they do any other inexplicable phenomenon in that mysterious inner world of the human soul, in which are lived the real lives of us all.  In Ah Lee's heathen soul was wrought the gracious wonder that makes joy among the angels of God.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The young Chinese disciple, it is to be feared, got little sympathy outside the Taylor household and a few others.  The right-hand of Christian fellowship was withheld by many, or extended in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Ah Lee became a frequent visitor to our cottage on the hill.  He always came and went rejoicing.  The Gospel of John was his daily study and delight.  To his ardent and receptive nature it was a diamond mine.  Two things he wanted to do.  He had a strong desire to translate his favorite Gospel into Chinese, and to lead his parents to Christ.  When he spoke of his father and mother his voice would soften, his eyes moisten with tenderness.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I go back to China and tellee my fader and mudder allee good news," he said, with beaming face.</P>
060.sgm:<P>This peculiar development of filial reverence and affection among the Chinese is a hopeful feature of their national life.  It furnishes a solid basis for a strong Christian nation. The weakening of this sentiment weakens religious susceptibility; its destruction is spiritual death.  The worship of ancestors is idolatry, but it is that form of it nearest akin to the worship of the Heavenly Father.  The honoring of the father and mother on earth is the commandment with promise, and it is the promise of this life and of life everlasting.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>About twice a week Ah Lee came to see us at North Beach.  These visits subjected our courtesy and tact to a severe test.  He loved little children, and at each visit he would bring with him a gayly-painted box filled with Chinese sweetmeats.  Such sweetmeats! They were too strong for the palates of even young Californians.  What cannot be relished and digested by a healthy California boy must be formidable indeed.  Those sweetmeats were--but I give it up, they were indescribable!  The boxes were pretty, and, after being emptied of their contents, they were kept.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Ah Lee's joy in his new experience did not abate.  Under the touch of the Holy Spirit, his spiritual nature had suddenly blossomed into tropical luxuriance.  To look at him made me think of the second chapter of the Acts of the Apostles.  If I had had any lingering doubts of the transforming power of the gospel upon all human hearts, this conversion of Ah Lee would have settled the question forever.  The bitter feeling against the Chinese that just then found expression in California, through so many channels, did not seem to affect him in the least.  He had his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Ah Lee has vanished from my observation, but I have a persuasion that is like a burning prophecy that he will be heard from again.  To me he types the blessedness of old China new-born in the life of the Lord, and in his luminous face I read the prophecy of the redemption of the millions who have so long bowed before the Great Red Dragon, but who now wait for the coming of the Deliverer.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE CLIMATE OF CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>HAD Shakespeare lived in California, he would not have written of the " <HI REND="italics">winter</HI>
060.sgm: of our discontent," but would most probably have found in the summer of that then undiscovered country a more fitting symbol of the troublous times referred to; for, with the fogs, winds, and dust, that accompany the summer, or the "dry season," as it is more appropriately called in California, it is emphatically a season of discontent.  In the mountains of the State only are these conditions not found.  True, you will find dust even there as the natural consequence of the lack of rain; but that is not, of course, so bad in the mountains; and with no persistent, nagging wind to pick it up and fling it spitefully at you, you soon get not to mind it at all.  But of summer in the coast country it is hard to speak tolerantly.  The perfect flower of its unloveliness flourishes in San Francisco, and, more or less hardily, all along the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:coast.  From the time the rains cease--generally some time in May--through the six-months' period of their cessation, the programme for the day is, with but few exceptions, unvaried.  Fog in the morning--chilling, penetrating fog, which obscures the rays of the morning sun completely, and, dank and "clinging like cerements," swathes everything with its soft, gray folds.  On the bay it hangs, heavy and chill, blotting out everything but the nearest objects, and at a little distance hardly distinguishable from the water itself.  At such times is heard the warning-cry of the fog-horns at Fort Point, Goat Island, and elsewhere--a sound which probably is more like that popularly supposed to be produced by an expiring cow in her last agony than any thing else, but which is not like that or any thing in the world but a fog-horn.  The fog of the morning, however, gives way to the wind of the afternoon, which, complete master of the situation by three o'clock P.M., holds stormy sway till sunset.  No gentle zephyr this, to softly sway the delicate flower or just lift the fringe on the maiden's brow, but what seamen call a "spanking breeze," that does not hesitate to knock off the hat that is not fastened tightly both fore and aft to the underlying head, or to fling sand and dust into any exposed eye, and which dances around generally among skirts and coat-tails with untiring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>But it is after the sun has gone down from the cloudless sky, and the sea has recalled its breezes to slumber for the night, that the fulfillment of the law of compensation is made evident in this matter.  The nights are of silver, if the days be not of gold.  And all over the State this blessing of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>The country here during this rainless season does not seem to the Eastern visitor enough like what he has known as country in the summer to warrant any outlay in getting there.  He must, however, understand that here people go to the country for precisely opposite reasons to those which influence Eastern tourists to leave the city and betake themselves to rural districts.  In the East, one leaves the crowded streets and heated atmosphere of the great city to seek coolness in some sylvan retreat.  Here, we leave the chilling winds and fogs of the city to try to get warm where they cannot penetrate.  Warm it may be; but the country at this season is not at its best as to looks.  The flowers and the grass have disappeared with the rains, the latter, however, keeping in its dry, brown roots, that the sun scorches daily, the germ of all next winter's green.  Of the trees, the live-oak alone keeps to the summer livery of Eastern forests.  Farther up in the mountain counties, it is very different.  No fairer summer could be wished for than that which reigns cloudless here; and with the sparkling champagne of that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Still we do get very tired of this long, strange summer, and the first rains are eagerly looked for and joyously welcomed.  The fall of the first showers after such a long season of bareness and brownness is almost as immediate in its effects as the waving of a fairy's magic wand over Cinderella, sitting ragged in the ashes and cinders.  The change thus wrought is well described by a poet of the soil in a few picturesque lines:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Week by week the near hills whitened,<LB>In their dusty leather cloaks;<LB>Week by week the far hills darkened,<LB>From the fringing plain of oaks;<LB>Till the rains came, and far breaking,<LB>On the fierce south-wester tost,<LB>Dashed the whole long coast with color,<LB>And then vanished and were lost.<LB></HI>
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060.sgm:<P>With these rains the grass springs up, the trees put out, and the winds disappear, leaving in the air a wonderful softness.  In a month or two the flowers appear, and the hills are covered with a mantle of glory.  Bluebells, lupins, buttercups, and hosts of other blossoms, spring up in profusion; and, illuminating every thing, the wild California poppy lifts its flaming torch, typifying well, in its dazzling and glowing color, the brilliant minds and passionate hearts of the people of this land.  All these bloom on through the winter, for this is a winter but in name.  With no frost, ice, or snow, it is more like an Eastern spring, but for the absence of that feeling of languor and debility which is so often felt in that season.  True it rains a good deal, but by no means constantly, more often in the night; and it is this season of smiles and tears, this winter of flowers and budding trees, in which the glory of the California climate lies.  Certainly nothing could be more perfect than a bright winter day in that State.  Still, after all I could say in its praise, you would not know its full charm till you had felt its delicious breath on your own brow; for the peculiar freshness and exhilaration of the air are indescribable.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Sometimes in March, the dwellers on the bay are treated to a blow or two from the north, which is about as serious weather as the inhabitant of that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:favored clime ever experiences.  After a night whose sleep has been broken by shrieks of the wind and the rattling of doors and windows, I wake with a dullness of head and sensitiveness of nerve that alone would be sufficient to tell me that the north wind had risen like a thief in the night, and had not, according to the manner of that class, stolen away before morning.  On the contrary, he seems to be rushing around with an energy that betokens a day of it.  I dress, and look out of my window.  The bay is a mass of foaming, tossing waves, which, as they break on the beach just below, cast their spray twenty feet in air.  All the little vessels have come into port, and only a few of the largest ships still ride heavily at their anchors.  The line separating the shallow water near the shore from the deeper waters beyond is much farther out than usual, and is more distinct.  Within its boundary, the predominant white is mixed with a dark, reddish brown; without, the spots of color are darkest green.  The sky has been swept of every particle of cloud and moisture, and is almost painfully blue.  Against it, Mounts Tamalpais and Diablo stand outlined with startling clearness.  The hills and islands round the bay look as cold and uncomfortable in their robes of bright green as a young lady who has put on her springdress too soon.  The streets and walks are swept <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>This climate of California is perfectly epitomized in a stanza of the same poem before quoted:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>So each year the season shifted,<LB>Wet and warm, and drear and dry,<LB>Half a year of cloud and flowers,<LB>Half a year of dust and sky.<LB></HI>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>AFTER THE STORM.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>(Penciled in the bay-window above the Golden Gate, North Beach, San Francisco, February 20, 1873.) <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>ALL day the winds the sea had lashed,<LB>The fretted waves in anger dashed<LB>Against the rocks in tumult wild<LB>Above the surges roughly piled--<LB>No blue above, no peace below,<LB>The waves still rage, the winds still blow.<LB>Dull and muffled the sunset gun<LB>Tells that the dreary day is done;<LB>The sea-birds fly with drooping wing--<LB>Chill and shadow on every thing--<LB>No blue above, no peace below,<LB>The waves still rage, the winds still blow.<LB>The clouds dispart; the sapphire dye<LB>In beauty spreds o'er the western sky,<LB>Cloud-fires blaze o'er the Gate of Gold,<LB>Gleaming and glowing, fold on fold-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<LB>All blue above, all peace below,<LB>Nor waves now rage, nor winds now blow.<LB>Souls that are lashed by storms of pain,<LB>Eyes that drip with sorrow's rain;<LB>Hearts that burn with passion strong,<LB>Bruised and torn, and weary of wrong--<LB>No light above, no peace within,<LB>Battling with self, and torn by sin--<LB>Hope on, hold on, the clouds will lift;<LB>God's peace will come as his own sweet gift,<LB>The light will shine at evening-time,<LB>The reflected beams of the sunlit clime,<LB>The blesse&grave;d goal of the soul's long quest,<LB>Where storms ne'er beat, and all are blest.<LB></HI>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>BISHOP KAVANAUGH IN CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>HE came first in 1856.  The Californians "took to" him at once.  It was almost as good as a visit to the old home to see and hear this rosy-faced, benignant, and solid Kentuckian.  His power and pathos in the pulpit were equaled by his humor and magnetic charm in the social circle.  Many consciences were stirred.  All hearts were won by him, and he holds them unto this day.  We may hope too that many souls were won that will be stars in his crown of rejoicing in the day of Jesus Christ.</P>
060.sgm:<P>At San Jose&acute;, his quality as a preacher was developed by an incident that excited no little popular interest.  The (Northern) Methodist Conference was in session at that place, the venerable and saintly Bishop Scott presiding.  Bishop Kavanaugh was invited to preach, and it so happened that he was to do so on the night following an appointment for Bishop Scott.  The matter was talked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:of in the town, and not unnaturally a spirit of friendly rivalry was excited with regard to the approaching pulpit performances by the Northern and Southern Bishops respectively.  One enthusiastic but not pious Kentuckian offered to bet a hundred dollars that Kavanaugh would preach the better sermon.  Of course the two venerable men were unconscious of all this, and nothing of the kind was in their hearts.  The church was thronged to hear Bishop Scott, and his humility, strong sense, deep earnestness, and holy emotion, made a profound and happy impression on all present.  The church was again crowded the next night.  Among the audience was a considerable number of Southerners--wild fellows, who were not often seen in such places, among them the enthusiastic Kentuckian already alluded to.  Kavanaugh, after going through with the preliminary services, announced his text, and began his discourse.  He seemed not to be in a good preaching mood.  His wheels drove heavily.  Skirmishing around and around, he seemed to be reconnoitering his subject, finding no salient point for attack.  The look of eager expectation in the faces of the people gave way to one of puzzled and painful solicitude.  The heads of the expectant Southerners drooped a little, and the betting Kentuckian betrayed his feelings by a lowering of the under-jaw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:and sundry nervous twitchings of the muscles of his face.  The good Bishop kept talking, but the wheels revolved slowly.  It was a solemn and "trying time" to at least a portion of the audience, as the Bishop, with head bent over the Bible and his broad chest stooped, kept trying to coax a response from that obstinate text.  It seemed a lost battle.  At last a sudden flash of thought seemed to strike the speaker, irradiating his face and lifting his form as he gave it utterance, with a characteristic throwing back of his shoulders and upward sweep of his arms.  Those present will never forget what followed.  The afflatus of the true orator had at last fallen upon him; the mighty ship was launched, and swept out to sea under full canvas.  Old Kentucky was on her feet that night in San Jose&acute;.  It was indescribable.  Flashes of spiritual illumination, explosive bursts of eloquent declamation, sparkles of chastened wit, appeals of overwhelming intensity, followed like the thunder and lightning of a Southern storm.  The church seemed literally to rock.  "Amens" burst from the electrified Methodists of all sorts; these were followed by "halleluiahs" on all sides; and when the sermon ended with a rapturous flight of imagination, half the congregation were on their feet, shaking hands, embracing one another, and shouting.  In the tremendous religious impression made, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>He came to Sonora, where I was pastor, to preach to the miners.  It was our second year in California, and the paternal element in his nature fell on us like a benediction.  He preached three noble sermons to full houses in the little church on the red hill-side, but his best discourses were spoken to the young preacher in the tiny parsonage.  Catching the fire of the old polemics that led to the battles of the giants in the West, he went over the points of difference between the Arminian and Calvinistic schools of theology in a way that left a permanent deposit in a mind which was just then in its most receptive state.  We felt very lonesome after he had left.  It was like a touch of home to have him with us then, and in his presence we have had the feeling ever since.  What a home will heaven be where all such men will be gathered in one company!</P>
060.sgm:<P>It was a warm day when he went down to take the stage for Mariposa.  The vehicle seemed to be already full of passengers, mostly Mexicans and Chinamen.  When the portly Bishop presented himself, and essayed to enter, there were frowns and expressions of dissatisfaction.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>"Mucho malo!" exclaimed a dark-skinned Sen&tilde;orita, with flashing black eyes.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Make room in there--he's got to go," ordered the bluff stage-driver, in a peremptory tone.</P>
060.sgm:<P>There were already eight passengers inside, and the top of the coach was covered as thick as robins on a sumac-bush.  The Bishop mounted the step and surveyed the situation.  The seat assigned him was between two Mexican women, and as he sunk into the apparently insufficient space there was a look of consternation in their faces--and I was not surprised at it.  But <HI REND="italics">scrouging</HI>
060.sgm: in, the new-comer smiled, and addressed first one and then another of his fellow-passengers with so much friendly pleasantness of manner that the frowns cleared away from their faces, even the stolid, phlegmatic Chinamen brightening up with the contagious good-humor of the "big Mellican man."  When the driver cracked his whip, and the spirited mustangs struck off in the California gallop--the early Californians scorned any slower gait--everybody was smiling.  Staging in California in those days was often an exciting business.  There were "opposition" lines on most of the thoroughfares, and the driving was furious and reckless in the extreme.  Accidents were strangely seldom when we consider the rate of speed, the nature of the roads, and the quantity of bad whisky consumed by most of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Old man Holden told me to go in ahead or smash every thing, and I made it!" exclaimed White, with professional pride.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The Bishop was fortunate enough to escape with unbroken bones as he dashed from point to point over the California hills and valleys, though that heavy body of his was mightily shaken up on many occasions.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He came to California on his second visit, in 1863, when the war was raging.  An incident occurred that gave him a very emphatic reminder that those were troublous times.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>He was at a camp-meeting in the San Joaquin Valley, near Linden--a place famous for gatherings of this sort.  The Bishop was to preach at eleven o'clock, and a great crowd was there, full of high expectation.  A stranger drove up just before the hour of service--a broad-shouldered man in blue clothes, and wearing a glazed cap.  He asked to see Bishop Kavanaugh privately for a few moments.</P>
060.sgm:<P>They retired to "the preachers' tent," and the stranger said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"My name is Jackson--Colonel Jackson, of the United States Army.  I have a disagreeable duty to perform.  By order of General McDowell, I am to place you under arrest, and take you to San Francisco."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Can you wait until I preach my sermon?" asked the Bishop, good-naturedly; "the people expect it, and I don't want to disappoint them if it can be helped."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"How long will it take you?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Well, I am a little uncertain when I get started, but I will try not to be too long."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Very well; go on with your sermon, and if you have no objection I will be one of your hearers."</P>
060.sgm:<P>The secret was known only to the Bishop and his captor.  The sermon was one of his best--the vast crowd of people were mightily moved, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I have just received a message which makes it necessary for me to return to San Francisco immediately.  I am sorry that I cannot remain longer, and participate with you in the hallowed enjoyments of the occasion.  The blessing of God be with you, my brethren and sisters."</P>
060.sgm:<P>His manner was so bland, and his tone so serene, that nobody had the faintest suspicion as to what it was that called him away so suddenly.  When he drove off with the stranger, the popular surmise was that it was a wedding or a funeral that called for such haste.  These are two events in human life that admit of no delays: people must be buried, and they will be married.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The Bishop reported to General Mason, Provostmarshal General, and was told to hold himself as in duress until further orders, and to be ready to appear at head-quarters at short notice when called for.  He was put on parole, as it were.  He came down to San Jose&acute; and stirred my congregation with several of his powerful discourses.  In the meantime the arrest had gotten into the newspapers.  Nothing that happens escapes the California journalists, and they have even been known to get hold of things that never happened at all.  It seems that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>About three weeks after the date of his arrest, I was with the Bishop one morning on our way to Judge Moore's beautiful country-seat, near San Jose&acute;, situated on the far-famed Alameda.  The carriage was driven by a black man named Henry.  Passing the post-office, I found, addressed to the Bishop in my care, a huge document bearing the official stamp of the provost-marshal's office, San Francisco.  He opened and read it as we drove slowly along, and as he did so he brightened up, and turning to Henry, said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Henry, were you ever a slave?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes, sah; in Mizzoory," said Henry, showing his white teeth.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Did you ever get your free-papers?"</P>
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060.sgm:<P>"Yes, sah--got'em now."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Well, I have got mine--let's shake hands."</P>
060.sgm:<P>And the Bishop and Henry had quite a handshaking over this mutual experience.  Henry enjoyed it greatly, as his frequent chucklings evinced while the Judge's fine bays were trotting along the Alameda.</P>
060.sgm:<P>(I linger on the word Alameda as I write it.  It is at least one beneficent trace of the early Jesuit Fathers who founded the San Jose&acute; and Santa Clara missions a hundred years ago.  They planted an avenue of willows the entire three miles, and in that rich, moist soil the trees have grown until their trunks are of enormous size, and their branches, overarching the highway with their dense shade, make a drive of unequaled beauty and pleasantness.  The horse-cars have now taken away much of its romance, but in the early days it was famous for moonlight drives and their concomitants and consequences.  A long-limbed four-year-old California colt gave me a romantic touch of a different sort, nearly the last time I was on the Alameda, by running away with the buggy, and breaking it and me--almost--to pieces.  I am reminded of it by the pain in my crippled right-shoulder as I write these lines in July, 1881.  But still I say, Blessings on the memory of the Fathers who planted the willows on the Alameda!)</P>
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060.sgm:<P>An intimation was given the Bishop that if he wanted the name of the false-swearer who had caused him to be arrested he could have it.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"No, I do n't want to know his name," said he; "it will do me no good to know it.  May God pardon his sin, as I do most heartily!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>A really strong preacher preaches a great many sermons, each of which the hearers claim to be the greatest sermon of his life.  I have heard of at least a half dozen "greatest" sermons by Bascom and Pierce, and other noted pulpit orators.  But I heard <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
060.sgm: sermon by Kavanaugh that was probably indeed his master-effort.  It had a history.  When the Bishop started to Oregon, in 1863, I placed in his hands Bascom's Lectures, which, strange to say, he had never read.  Of these Lectures the elder Dr. Bond said "they would be the colossal pillars of Bascom's fame when his printed sermons were forgotten."  Those Lectures wonderfully anticipated the changing phases of the materialistic infidelity developed since his day, and applied to them the <HI REND="italics">reductio ad absurdum</HI>
060.sgm: with relentless and resistless power.  On his return from Oregon, Kavanaugh met and presided over the Annual Conference at San Jose&acute;.  One of his old friends, who was troubled with skeptical thoughts of the materialistic sort, requested him to preach a sermon for his special benefit.  This request, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:the previous reading of the Lectures, directed his mind to the topic suggested with intense earnestness.  The result was, as I shall always think, the sermon of a life-time.  The text was, <HI REND="italics">There is a spirit in man; and the inspiration of the Almighty giveth them understanding</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"O I thank God that he sent me here this day to hear that sermon!  I never heard any thing like it, and I shall never forget it, or cease to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Do n't you wish you were a Kentuckian?" was the enthusiastic exclamation of a lady who brought from Kentucky a matchless wit and the culture of Science Hill Academy, which has blessed and brightened so many homes from the Ohio to the Sacramento.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I think the Bishop was present on another occasion when the compliment he received was a left-handed one.  It was at the Stone Church in Suisun Valley.  The Bishop and a number of the most prominent ministers of the Pacific Conference were present at a Saturday-morning preaching appointment.  They had all been engaged in protracted labors, and, beginning with the Bishop, one after another declined to preach.  The lot fell at last upon a boyish-looking brother of very small stature, who labored under the double disadvantage of being a very young preacher, and of having been reared in the immediate vicinity.  The people <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Bless God!  <HI REND="italics">he uses the weak things of this world</HI>
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060.sgm:<HI REND="italics">to confound the mighty</HI>
060.sgm:<P>This impromptu remark was more amusing to the hearers than helpful to the preacher, I fear; but it was a way the dear old brother had of speaking out in meeting.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I must end this Sketch.  I have dipped my pen in my heart in writing it.  The subject of it has been friend, brother, father, to me since the day he looked in upon us in the little cabin on the hill in Sonora, in 1855.  When I greet him on the hills of heaven, he will not be sorry to be told that among the many in the far West to whom he was helpful was the writer of this too imperfect Sketch.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SANDERS.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>HE belonged to the Church militant.  In looks he was a cross between a grenadier and a Trappist.  But there was more soldier than monk in his nature.  He was over six feet high, thin as a bolster, and straight as a long-leaf pine.  His anatomy was strongly conspicuous.  He was the boniest of men.  There were as many angles as inches in the lines of his face.  His hair disdained the persuasions of comb or brush, and rose in tangled masses above a head that would have driven a phrenologist mad.  It was a long head in every sense.  His features were strong and stern, his nose one that would have delighted the great Napoleon--it was a grand organ.  You said at once, on looking at him, Here is a man that fears neither man nor devil.  The face was an honest face.  When you looked into those keen, dark eyes, and read the lines of that stormy countenance, you felt that it would be equally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>This was John Sanders, one of the early California Methodist preachers.  He went among the first to preach the gospel to the gold-hunters.  He got a hearing where some failed.  His sincerity and brain-power commanded attention, and his plucken forced respect.  In one case it seemed to be needed.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He was sent to preach in Placerville, popularly called in the old days, "Hangtown,"  It was then a lively and populous place.  The mines were rich, and gold-dust was abundant as good behavior was scarce.  The one church in the town was a "union church," and it was occupied by Sanders and a preacher of another sect on alternate Sundays.  All went well for many months, and if there were no sinners converted in that camp, the few saints were at peace.  It so happened that Sanders was called away for a week or two, and on his return he found that a new preacher had been sent to the place, and that he had made an appointment to preach on his (Sanders's) regular day.  Having no notion of yielding his rights, Sanders also inserted a notice in the papers of the town that he would preach at the same time and place.  The thing was talked about in the town and vicinity, and there was a buzz of excitement.  The miners, always ready for a sensation, became interested, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I preach here to-day, sir!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>That settled it.  There was no mistaking that look or tone.  The tall stranger muttered an inarticulate protest and subsided.  Sanders proceeded with the service, making no allusion to the difficulty until it was ended.  Then he proposed a meeting of the citizens the next evening to adjudicate the case.  The proposal was acceded to.  The church was again crowded; and though ecclesiastically Sanders was in the minority, with the genuine love for fair-play which is a trait of Anglo-Saxon character, he was sustained by an overwhelming majority.  It is likely, too, that his plucky bearing the day before made him some votes.  A preacher who would fight for his rights suited those wild fellows better than one who would assert a claim that he would not enforce.  Sanders preached to larger audiences after this episode in his "Hangtown" pastorate.</P>
060.sgm:<P>It was after this that he went out one day to stake off a lot on which he proposed to build a house of worship.  It was near the Roman Catholic Church.  A zealous Irishman, who was a little more than half drunk, was standing by.  Evidently he did not like any such heretical movements, and, after Sanders had placed the stake in the earth, the Hibernian stepped forward and pulled it up.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>"I put the stake back in its place.  He pulled it up again.  I put it back.  He pulled it up again.  I put it back once more.  He got fiery mad by this time, and started at me with an ax in his hand.  I had an ax in my hand, and as its handle was longer than his, <HI REND="italics">I cut him down</HI>
060.sgm:<P>The poor fellow had waked up the fighting preacher, and fell before the sweep of Sanders's ax.  He dodged as the weapon descended, and saved his life by doing so.  He got an ugly wound on the shoulder, and kept his bed for many weeks.  When he rose from his bed he had a profound regard for Sanders, whose grit excited his admiration.  There was not a particle of resentment in his generous Irish heart.  He became a sober man, and it was afterward a current pleasantry among the "boys" that he was converted by the use of the carnal weapon wielded by that spunky parson.  Nobody blamed Sanders for his part in the matter.  It was a fair fight, and he had the right on his side.  Had he shown the white feather, that would have damaged him with a community in whose estimation courage was the cardinal virtue.  Sanders was popular with all classes, and Placerville remembers him to this day.  He was no rose-water divine, but thundered the terrors of the law into the ears of those wild fellows with the boldness of a John the Baptist.  Many a sinner quaked under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>I shall never forget a sermon he preached at San Jose&acute;.  He was in bad health, and his mind was morbid and gloomy.  His text was, <HI REND="italics">Who hath hardened himself against him, and hath prospered</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"Who hath defied God and escaped?" he demanded, with flashing eyes and trumpet voice.  And then he recited the histories of nations and men that had made the fatal experiment, and the doom that had whelmed them in utter ruin.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"And yet you hope to escape!" he thundered to the silent and awe-struck men and women before him.  "You expect that God will abrogate his law to please you; that he will tear down the pillars of his moral government that you may be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>His haggard face, the stern solemnity of his voice, the sweep of long arms, the gleam of his deep-set eyes, and the vigor of his inexorable logic, drove that sermon home to the listeners.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He was the keenest of critics, and often merciless.  He was present at a camp-meeting near San Jose&acute;, but too feeble to preach.  I was there, and disabled from the effects of the California poisonoak.  That deceitful shrub!  Its pink leaves smile at you as pleasantly as sin, and, like sin, it leaves its sting. The "preachers' tent" was immediately in the rear of "the stand," and Sanders and I lay inside and listened to the sermons.  He was in one of his caustic moods, and his comments were racy enough, though not helpful to devotion.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"There! he yelled, clapped his hands, stamped, and-- <HI REND="italics">said nothing</HI>
060.sgm:<P>The criticism was just: the brother in the stand was making a great noise, but there was not much meaning in what he said.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"He made one point only--a pretty good apology for Lazarus's poverty."</P>
060.sgm:<P>This was said at the close of an elaborate discourse on "The Rich Man and Lazarus," by a brother who sometimes got "in the brush."</P>
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060.sgm:<P>This last criticism was directed against a timid young divine, who was badly frightened, but who has since shown that there was good metal in him.  If he had known what was going on just behind him, he would have collapsed entirely in that tentative effort at preaching the gospel.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Sanders kept up this running fire of criticism at every service, cutting to the bone at every blow, and giving me new light on homiletics, if he did not promote my enjoyment of the preaching.  He had read largely and thought deeply, and his incisive intellect had no patience with what was feeble or pointless.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Disease settled upon his lungs, and he rapidly declined.  His strong frame grew thinner and thinner, and his mind alternated between moods of morbid bitterness and transient buoyancy.  As the end approached, his bitter moods were less frequent, and an unwonted tenderness came into his words and tones.  He went to the Lokonoma Springs, in the hills of Napa county, and in their solitudes he adjusted himself to the great change that was drawing near.  The capacious blue sky that arched above him, the sighing of the gentle breeze through the solemn pines, the repose of the encircling mountains, bright with sunrise, or purpling in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>REV. JOHN SANDERS.<LB>Many are the afflictions of the righteous, but the Lord delivereth him out of them all.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The spring flowers were blooming on the grave when I saw it last.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A DAY.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>AH, that blessed, blessed day!  I had gone to the White Sulphur Springs, in Napa County, to get relief form the effects of the California poison-oak.  Gay deceiver!  With its tender green and pink leaves, it looks as innocent and smiling as sin when it woos youth and ignorance.  Like sin, it is found everywhere in that beautiful land.  Many antidotes are used, but the only sure way of dealing with it is to keep away from it.  Again, there is an analogy: it is easier to keep out of sin than to get out when caught.  These soft, pure white sulphur waters work miracles of healing, and attract all sorts of people.  The weary and broken-down man of business comes here to sleep, and eat, and rest; the woman of fashion, to dress and flirt; the loudly-dressed and heavily-bejeweled gambler, to ply his trade; happy bridal couples, to have the world to themselves; successful and unsuccessful politicians, to plan future triumphs or brood over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>It was in 1863, when the civil war was at its white heat.  Circumstances had given me undesired notoriety in that connection.  I had been thrust into the very vortex of its passion, and my name made the rallying-cry of opposing elements in California.  The guns of Manassas, Cedar Mountain, and the Chickahominy, were echoed in the foot-hills of the Sierras, and in the peaceful valleys of the far-away Pacific Coast.  The good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:sense of a practical people prevented any flagrant outbreak on a large scale, but here and there a too ardent Southerner said or did something that gave him a few weeks' or months' duress at Fort Alcatraz, and the honors of a bloodless martyrdom.  I was then living at North Beach, in full sight of that fortress.  It was kindly suggested by several of my brother editors that it would be a good place for me.  When, as my eye swept over the bay in the early morning, the first sight that met my gaze was its rocky ramparts and bristling guns, the poet's line would come to mind:  "'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view."  I was just as close as I wanted to be.  "I have good quarters for you," said the brave and courteous Captain McDougall, who was in command at the fort; "and knowing your <HI REND="italics">penchant</HI>
060.sgm:<P>The name and image of another Federal officer rise before me as I write.  It is that of the heroic soldier, General Wright, who went down with the "Brother Jonathan," on the Oregon coast, in 1865.  He was in command of the Department of the Pacific during this stormy period of which I am speaking.  I had never seen him, and I had no special desire to make his acquaintance.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"It has come at last!" was my exclamation as I read the note left by an orderly in uniform notifying me that I was expected to report at the quarters of the commanding-general the next day at ten o'clock.  Conscious of my innocence of treason or any other crime against the Government or society, my pugnacity was roused by this summons.  Before the hour set for my appearance at the military head-quarters, I was ready for martyrdom or any thing else--except Alcatraz.  I did n't like that.  The island was too small, and too foggy and windy, for my taste.  I thought it best to obey the order I had received, and so, punctually at the hour, I repaired to the head-quarters on Washington Street, and ascending the steps with a firm tread and defiant feeling, I entered the room.  General Mason, provost-marshal, a scholar and polished gentleman, politely offered me a seat.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"No; I prefer to stand," I said stiffly.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"The General will see you in a few minutes," said he, resuming his work, while I stood nursing my indignation and sense of wrong.</P>
060.sgm:<P>In a little while General Wright entered--a tall and striking figure, silver-haired, blue-eyed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>Declining also his cordial invitation to be seated, I stood and looked at him, still nursing defiance, and getting ready to wear a martyr's crown.  The General spoke:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Did you know, sir, that I am perhaps the most attentive reader of your paper to be found in California?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"No; I was not aware that I had the honor of numbering the commanding-general of this department among my readers."  (This was spoken with severe dignity.)</P>
060.sgm:<P>"A lot of hot-heads have for sometime been urging me to have you arrested on the ground that you are editing and publishing a disloyal newspaper.  Not wishing to do any injustice to a fellowman, I have taken means every week to obtain a copy of your paper, the <HI REND="italics">Pacific Methodist</HI>
060.sgm:<P>I bowed, feeling that the spirit of martyrdom was cooling within me.  The General continued:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I have sent for you, sir, that I might say to you, Go on in your present prudent and manly course, and while I command this department you are as safe as I am."</P>
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060.sgm:<P>There I stood, a whipped man, my pugnacity all gone, and the martyr's crown away out of my reach.  I walked softly down-stairs, after bidding the General an adieu in a manner in marked contrast to that in which I had greeted him at the beginning of the interview.  Now that it is all over, and the ocean winds have wailed their dirges for him so many long years, I would pay a humble tribute to the memory of as brave and knightly a man as ever wore epaulettes or fought under the stars and stripes.  He was of the type of Sidney Johnston, who fell at Shiloh, and of McPherson, who fell at Kennesaw--all Californians; all Americans, true soldiers, who had a sword for the foe in fair fight in the open field, and a shield for woman, and for the non-combatant, the aged, the defenseless.  They fought on different sides to settle forever a quarrel that was bequeathed to their generation, but their fame is the common inheritance of the American people.  The reader is beginning to think I am digressing, but he will better understand what is to come after getting this glimpse of those stormy days in the sixties.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The guests at the Springs were about equally divided in their sectional sympathies.  The gentlemen were inclined to avoid all exciting discussions, but the ladies kept up a fire of small-arms.  When the mails came in, and the latest news was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>The Sabbath morning dawned without a cloud.  I awoke with the earliest song of the birds, and was out before the first rays of the sun had touched the mountain-tops.  The coolness was delicious, and the air was filled with the sweet odors of aromatic shrubs and flowers, with a hint of the pine-forests and balsam-thickets from the higher altitudes.  Taking a breakfast <HI REND="italics">solus</HI>
060.sgm:, pocket-bible in hand I bent my steps up the gorge, often crossing the brook that wound its way among the thickets or sung its song at the foot of the great overhanging cliffs.  A shining trout would now and then flash like a silver bar for a moment above the shaded pools.  With light step a doe descending the mountain came upon me, and, gazing at me a moment or two with its soft eyes, tripped away.  In a narrow pass where the stream rippled over the pebbles between two great walls of rock, a spotted snake crossed my path, hurrying its movement in fright.  Fear not, humble ophidian.  The war declared between thee and me in the fifteenth verse of the third chapter of Genesis is suspended for this one day.  Let no creature die to-day but by the act of God.  Here is the lake.  How beautiful! how still!  A land-slide had dammed the stream where it flowed between steep, lofty banks, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:backing the waters over a little valley three or four acres in extent, shut in on all sides by the wooded hills, the highest of which rose from its northern margin.  Here is my sanctuary, pulpit, choir, and altar.  A gigantic pine had fallen into the lake, and its larger branches served to keep the trunk above the water as it lay parallel with the shore.  Seated on its trunk, and shaded by some friendly willows that stretch their graceful branches above, the hours pass in a sort of subdued ecstasy of enjoyment.  It is peace, the peace of God.  No echo of the world's discords reaches me.  The only sound I hear is the cooing of a turtle-dove away off in a distant gorge of the mountain.  It floats down to me on the Sabbath air with a pathos as if it voiced the pity of Heaven for the sorrows of a world of sin, and pain, and death.  The shadows of the pines are reflected in the pellucid depths, and ever and anon the faintest hint of a breeze sighs among their branches overhead.  The lake lies without a ripple below, except when from time to time a gleaming trout throws himself out of the water, and, falling with a splash, disturbs the glassy surface, the concentric circles showing where he went down.  Sport on, ye shiny denizens of the deep; no angler shall cast his deceitful hook into your quiet haunts this day.  Through the foliage of the overhanging boughs the blue sky is spread, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>It is nearly dark when I get back to the hotel.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"Did you know there was quite a quarrel about you this morning?" asks one of the guests.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The words jar.  In answer to my look of inquiry, he proceeds:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"There was a dispute about your holding a religious service at the picnic grounds.  They made it a political matter--one party threatened to leave if you did preach, the other threatened to leave if you did not preach.  There was quite an excitement about it until it was found that you were gone, and then everybody quieted down."</P>
060.sgm:<P>There is a silence.  I break it by telling them how I spent the day, and then they are very quiet.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The next Sabbath every soul at the place united in a request for a religious service, the list headed by a high-spirited and brilliant Pennsylvania lady who had led the opposing forces the previous Sunday.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WINTER-BLOSSOMED.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>I THINK I saw him the first Sunday I preached in San Jose&acute;, in 1856.  He was a notable-looking man.  I felt attracted toward him by that in definable sympathy that draws together two souls born to be friends.  I believe in friendship at first sight.  Who that ever had a real friend does not?  Love at first sight is a different thing--it may be divine and eternal, or it may be a whim or a passing fancy.  Passion blurs and blinds in the region of sexual love: friendship is revealed in its own white light.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I was introduced after the service to the stranger who had attracted my attention, and who had given the youthful preacher such a kind and courteous hearing.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"This is Major McCoy."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He was a full head higher than anybody else as he stood in the aisle.  He bowed with courtly grace as he took my hand, and his face lighted with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I have met a man that I know I shall like," was my gratified exclamation to the mistress of the parsonage, as I entered.</P>
060.sgm:<P>And so it turned out.  He became one of the select circle to whom I applied the word friend in the sacredest sense.  This inner circle can never be large.  If you unduly enlarge it you dilute the quality of this wine of life.  We are limited.  There is only One Heart large enough to hold all humanity in its inmost depths.</P>
060.sgm:<P>My new friend lived out among the sycamores on the New Almaden Road, a mile from the city, and the cottage in which he lived with his cultured and loving household was one of the social paradises of that beautiful valley in which the breezes are always cool, and the flowers never fade.</P>
060.sgm:<P>My friend interested me more and more.  He had been a soldier, and in the Mexican war won distinction by his skill and valor.  He was with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>He was a skeptic.  Bred to the profession of medicine and surgery, he became bogged in the depths of materialistic doubt.  The microscope drew his thoughts downward until he could not see beyond second causes.  The soul, the seat of which the scalpel could not find, he feared did not exist.  The action of the brain, like that of the heart and lungs, seemed to him to be functional; and when the organ perished did not its function cease forever?  He doubted the fact of immortality, but did not deny it.  This doubt clouded his life.  He wanted to believe.  His heart rebelled against the negations of materialism, but his intellect was entangled in its meshes. The Great Question was ever in his thought, and the shadow was ever on his path.  He read much on both sides, and was always ready to talk with any from whom he had reason to hope for new light or a helpful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:suggestion.  Did he also pray?  We took many long rides and had many long talks together.  Pausing under the shade of a tree on the highway, the hours would slip away while we talked of life and death, and weighed the <HI REND="italics">pros</HI>
060.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">cons</HI>
060.sgm:<P>"The structure and adaptations of the horse harnessed to the buggy in which we sit, exhibit the infinite skill of a Creator."</P>
060.sgm:<P>On this basis I reasoned with him in behalf of all that is precious to Christian faith and hope, trying to show (what I earnestly believe)that, admitting the existence of God, it is illogical to stop short of a belief in revelation and immortality.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The rudest workman would not fling<LB>The fragments of his work away,<LB>If every useless bit of clay<LB>He trod on were a sentient thing.<LB>And does the Wisest Worker take<LB>Quick human hearts, instead of stone,<LB>And hew and carve them one by one,<LB>Nor heed the pangs with which they break?  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<LB>And more: if but creation's waste,<LB>Would he have given us sense to yearn<LB>For the perfection none can earn,<LB>And hope the fuller life to taste?<LB>I think, if we must cease to be,<LB>It is cruelty refined<LB>To make the instincts of our mind<LB>Stretch out toward eternity.<LB>Wherefore I welcome Nature's cry,<LB>As earnest of a life again,<LB>Where thought shall never be in vain,<LB>And doubt before the light shall fly.<LB></HI>
060.sgm:<P>My talks with him were helpful to me if not to him.  In trying to remove his doubts my own faith was confirmed, and my range of thought enlarged.  His reverent spirit left its impress upon mine.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"McCoy is a more religious man than either you or I, Doctor," said Tod Robinson to me one day in reply to a remark in which I had given expression to my solicitude for my doubting friend.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Yes, strange as it may seem, this man who wrestled with doubts that wrung his soul with intense agony, and walked in darkness under the veil of unbelief, had a healthful influence upon me because the attitude of his soul was that of a reverent inquirer, not that of a scoffer.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The admirable little treatise of Bishop McIlvaine, on the "Evidences of Christianity," cleared away <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>A friend of his lay dying at Redwood City.  This friend, like himself, was a skeptic, and his doubts darkened his way as he neared the border of the undiscovered country.  McCoy went to see him.  The sick man, in the freedom of long friendship, opened his mind to him.  The arguments of the good Bishop were yet fresh in McCoy's mind, and the echoes of his mighty appeals were still sounding in his heart.  Seated by the dying man, he forgot his own misgivings, and with intense earnestness pointed the struggling soul to the Saviour of sinners.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I did not intend it, but I was impelled by a feeling I could not resist.  I was surprised and strangely thrilled at my own words as I unfolded to my friend the proofs of the truth of Christianity, culminating in the incarnation, death, and resurrection, of Jesus Christ.  He seemed to have grasped the truths as presented, a great calm came over him, and he died a believer.  No incident of my life has given me a purer pleasure than this; but it was a strange thing!  Nobody could have had access to him as I had--I, a doubter and a stumbler all my life: it looks like the hand of God!"</P>
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060.sgm:<P>His voice was low, and his eyes were wet as he finished the narration.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Yes, the hand of God was in it--it is in every good thing that takes place on earth.  By the bedside of a dying friend, the undercurrent of faith in his warm and noble heart swept away for the time the obstructions that were in his thought, and bore him to the feet of the blessed, pitying Christ, who never breaks a bruised reed.  I think he had more light, and felt stronger ever after.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Death twice entered his home-circle--once to convey a budding flower from the earth-home to the skies, and again like a lightning-stroke laying young manhood low in a moment.  The instinct within him, stronger than doubt, turned his thought in those dark hours toward God.  The ashes of the earthly hopes that had perished in the fire of fierce calamity, and the tears of a grief unspeakable, fertilized and watered the seed of faith which was surely in his heart.  The hot furnace-fire did not harden this finely-tempered soul.  But still he walked in darkness, doubting, doubting, doubting all he most wished to believe.  It was the infirmity of his constitution, and the result of his surroundings.  He went into large business enterprises with mingled success and disappointment.  He went into politics, and though he bore himself nobly and gallantly, it need not be said that <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
060.sgm: vortex <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>From time to time we were thrown together, and I was glad to know that the Great Question was still in his thought, and the hunger for truth was still in his heart.  Ill health sometimes made him irritable and morbid, but the drift of his inner nature was unchanged.  His mind was enveloped in mists, and sometimes tempests of despair raged within him; but his heart still thirsted for the water of life.</P>
060.sgm:<P>A painful and almost fatal railway accident befell him.  He was taken to his ranch among the quiet hills of Shasta County.  This was the final crisis in his life.  Shut out from the world, and shut in with his own thoughts and with God, he reviewed his life and the argument that had so long been going on in his mind.  He was now quiet enough to hear distinctly the Still Small Voice whose tones he could only half discern amid the clamors of the world when he was a busy actor on its stage.  Nature spoke to him among the hills, and her voice is God's.  The great primal instincts of the soul, repressed in the crowd or driven into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A VIRGINIAN IN CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>"HARD at it, are you, uncle?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"No, sah--I's workin' by de day, an' I an't a-hurtin' myself."</P>
060.sgm:<P>This answer was given with a jolly laugh as the old man leaned on his pick and looked at me.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You looked so much like home-folks that I felt like speaking to you.  Where are you from?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"From Virginny, sah!"  (pulling himself up to his full height as he spoke).  "Where's you from, Massa?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I was brought up partly in Virginia too."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Whar'bouts in Virginny?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Mostly in Lynchburg."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Lynchburg! dat's whar I was fotched up.  I belonged to de Widder Tate, dat lived on de New London Road.  Gib me yer han', Massa!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>He rushed up to the buggy, and taking my extended hand in his huge fist he shook it heartily, grinning with delight.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>This was Uncle Joe, a perfect specimen of the old Virginia "Uncle," who had found his way to California in the early days.  Yes, he was a perfect specimen--black as night, his lower limbs crooked, arms long, hands and feet very large.  His mouth was his most striking feature.  It was the orator's mouth in size, being larger than that of Henry Clay--in fact, it ran almost literally from ear to ear.  When he opened it fully, it was like lifting the lid of a box.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Uncle Joe and I became good friends at once.  He honored my ministry with his presence on Sundays.  There was a touch of dandyism in him that then and there came out.  Clad in a blue broadcloth dress-coat of the olden cut, vest to match, tight-fitting pantaloons, stove-pipe hat, and yellow kid gloves, he was a gorgeous object to behold.  He knew it, and there was a pleasant selfconsciousness in the way he bore himself in the sanctuary.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Uncle Joe was the heartiest laugher I ever knew.  He was always as full of happy life as a frisky colt or a plump pig.  When he entered a knot of idlers on the streets, it was the signal for a humorous uproar.  His quaint sayings, witty repartee, and contagious laughter, never failed.  He was as agile as a monkey, and his dancing was a marvel.  For a dime he would "cut the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>What was Uncle Joe's age nobody could guess--he had passed the line of probable surmising.  His own version of the matter on a certain occasion was curious.  We had a colored female servant--an old-fashioned aunty from Mississippi--who, with a bandanna handkerchief on her head, went about the house singing the old Methodist choruses so naturally that it gave us a home-feeling to have her about us.  Uncle Joe and Aunt Tishy became good friends, and he got into the habit of dropping in at the parsonage on Sunday evenings to escort her to church.  On this particular occasion I was in the little study adjoining the dining-room where Aunt Tishy was engaged in cleaning away the dishes after tea.  I was not eavesdropping, but could not help hearing what they said.  My name was mentioned.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"O yes," said Uncle Joe; "I knowed Massa Fitchjarals back dar in Virginny.  I use ter hear 'im preach dar when I was a boy."</P>
060.sgm:<P>There was a silence.  Aunt Tishy couldn't swallow that.  Uncle Joe's statement, if true, would have made me more than a hundred years old, or brought him down to less than forty.  The latter was his object; he wanted to impress Aunt Tishy with the idea that he was young enough to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"What made dat nigger tell me a lie like dat?  Tut, tut, tut!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>She cut him ever after, saying she wouldn't keep company with a liar, "even if he was from de Souf."  Aunt Tishy was a good woman, and had some old-time notions.  As a cook, she was discounted a little by the fact that she used tobacco, and when it got into the gravy it was not improving to its flavor.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Uncle Joe was in his glory at a dinner-party, where he could wait on the guests, give droll answers to the remarks made to call him out, and enliven the feast by his inimitable and "catching" laugh.  In a certain circle no occasion of the sort was considered complete without his presence.  There was no such thing as dullness when he was about.  His peculiar wit or his simplicity was brought out at a dinner-party one day at Dr. Bascom's.  There was a large gathering of the leading families of San Jose&acute; and vicinity, and Uncle Joe was there in his jolliest mood.  Mrs. Bascom, whose wit was then the quickest and keenest in all California, presided, and enough good things were said to have made a reputation for Sidney Smith <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Missus, who is yer kinfolks back dar in Virginny, any way?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>The names of several were mentioned.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Why, dem's big folks," said Uncle Joe.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes," said she, laughingly; "I belong to the first families of Virginia."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I don't know 'bout dat, Missus.  I was dar 'fore you was, an' I don't 'long to de fus' families!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>He looked at it from a chronological rather than a genealogical stand-point, and, strange to say, the familiar phrase had never been heard by him before.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Uncle Joe joined the Church.  He was sincere in his profession.  The proof was found in the fact that he quit dancing.  No more "pigeonwings,"  "double-shuffles," or "breakdown," for him--he was a "perfessor."  He was often tempted by the offer of coin, but he stood firm.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"No, sah; I's done dancin', an' don't want to be discommunicated from de Church," he would say, good-naturedly, as he shied off, taking himself away from temptation.</P>
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060.sgm:<P>A very high degree of spirituality could hardly be expected from Uncle Joe at that late day; but he was a Christian after a pattern of his own--kind-hearted, grateful, simple-minded, and full of good humor.  His strength gradually declined, and he was taken to the county hospital, where his patience and cheerfulness conciliated and elicited kind treatment from everybody.  His memories went back to old Virginia, and his hopes looked up to the heaven of which his notions were as simple as those of a little child.  In the simplicity of a child's faith he had come to Jesus, and I doubt not was numbered among his little ones.  Among the innumerable company that shall be gathered on Mount Zion from every kindred, tribe, and tongue, I hope to meet my humble friend, Uncle Joe.</P>
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060.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>AT THE END.</HEAD>
060.sgm:<P>AMONG my acquaintances at San Jose&acute;, in 1863, was a young Kentuckian who had come down from the mines in bad health.  The exposure of mining-life had been too severe for him.  It took iron constitutions to stand all day in almost ice-cold water up to the waist with a hot sun pouring down its burning rays upon the head and upper part of the body.  Many a poor fellow sunk under it at once, and after a few days of fever and delirium was taken to the top of an adjacent hill and laid to rest by the hands of strangers.  Others, crippled by rheumatic and neuralgic troubles, drifted into the hospitals of San Francisco, or turned their faces sadly toward the old homes which they had left with buoyant hopes and elastic footsteps.  Others still, like this young Kentuckian, came down into the valleys with the hacking cough and hectic flush to make a vain struggle against the destroyer that had fastened upon their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"I know that I have at most but a few months to live, and I want to spend them in making preparation to die.  You will oblige me by advising me what books to read.  I want to get clear views of what I am to do, and then do it."</P>
060.sgm:<P>It need scarcely be said that I most readily complied with his request, and that first and chiefly I advised him to consult the Bible, as the light to his path and the lamp to his feet.  Other books were suggested, and a word with regard to prayerful reading was given, and kindly received.</P>
060.sgm:<P>One day I went over to see my friend.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"How are you to-day?"  I asked.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I am annoyed, sir--I am indignant," he said.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"What is the matter?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Mr.--, the --preacher, has just left me.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He told me that my soul cannot be saved unless I perform two miracles: I must, he said, think of nothing but religion, and be baptized by immersion.  I am very weak, and cannot fully control my mental action--my thoughts will wander in spite of myself.  As to being put under the water, that would be immediate death; it would bring on a hemorrhage of the lungs, and kill me."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He leaned his head on the table and panted for breath, his thin chest heaving.  I answered:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Mr.-- is a good man, but narrow.  He meant kindly in the foolish words he spoke to you.  No man, sick or well, can so control the action of his mind as to force his thoughts wholly into one channel.  I cannot do it, neither can any other man.  God requires no such absurdity of you or anybody else.  As to being immersed, that seems to be a physical impossibility, and he surely does not demand what is impossible.  My friend, it really makes little difference what Mr.-- says, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>I took up the Bible, and he turned a face upon me expressing the most eager interest.  The blessed Book seemed to open of itself to the very words that were wanted.  "Like as a father pitieth his children, so the Lord pitieth them that fear him."  "He knoweth our frame, and remembereth that we are dust."  "Ho, every one that thirsteth, come to the waters."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Glancing at him as I read, I was struck with the intensity of his look as he drank in every word.  A traveler dying of thirst in the desert could not clutch a cup of cold water more eagerly than he grasped these tender words of the pitying Father in heaven.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I read the words of Jesus: "Come unto me all ye that labor and are heavy-laden, and I will give you rest."  "Him that cometh unto me I will in no wise cast out."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"This is what God says to you, and these are the only conditions of acceptance.  Nothing is said about any thing but the desire of your heart and the purpose of your soul.  O my friend, these words are for <HI REND="italics">you!</HI>
060.sgm:<P>The great truth flashed upon his mind, and flooded it with light.  He bent his head and wept.  We knelt and prayed together, and when we rose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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060.sgm:<P>"It is all right now--I see it clearly; I see it clearly!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>We quietly clasped hands, and sat in silent sympathy.  There was no need for any words from me; God had spoken, and that was enough.  Our hearts were singing together the song without words.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You have found peace at the cross--let nothing disturb it," I said, as he pressed my hand at the door as we left.</P>
060.sgm:<P>It never was disturbed.  The days that had dragged so wearily and anxiously during the long, long months, were now full of brightness.  A subdued joy shone in his face, and his voice was low and tender as he spoke of the blessed change that had passed upon him.  The Book whose words had been light and life to him was often in his hand, or lay open on the little table in his room.  He never lost his hold upon the great truth he had grasped, nor abated in the fullness of his joy.  I was with him the night he died.  He knew the end was at hand, and the thought filled him with solemn joy.  His eyes kindled, and his wasted features fairly blazed with rapture as he said, holding my hand with both of his:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I am glad it will all soon be over.  My peace has been unbroken since that morning when God <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>Before day-break the great mystery was disclosed to him, and as he lay in his coffin next day, the smile that lingered on his lips suggested the thought that he had caught a hint of the secret while yet in the body.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Among the casual hearers that now and then dropped in to hear a sermon in Sonora, in the early days of my ministry there, was a man who interested me particularly.  He was at that time editing one of the papers of the town, which sparkled with the flashes of his versatile genius.  He was a true Bohemian, who had seen many countries, and knew life in almost all its phases.  He had written a book of adventure which found many readers and admirers.  An avowed skeptic, he was yet respectful in his allusions to sacred things, and I am sure his editorial notices of the pulpit efforts of a certain young preacher who had much to learn were more than just.  He was a brilliant talker, with a vein of enthusiasm that was very delightful.  His spirit was generous and frank, and I never heard from his lips an unkind word concerning any human being.  Even his partisan editorials were free from the least tinge of asperity--and this is a supreme test of a sweet and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"I can't agree with you on that subject, and we will let it pass," he would say, with a smile, and then he would start some other topic, and rattle on delightfully in his easy, rapid way.</P>
060.sgm:<P>He could not stay long at a place, being a confirmed wanderer.  He left Sonora, and I lost sight of him.  Retaining a very kindly feeling for this gentle-spirited and pleasant adventurer, I was loth thus to lose all trace of him.  Meeting a friend one day, on J Street, in the city of Sacramento, he said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Your old friend D--is at the Golden Eagle hotel.  You ought to go and see him."</P>
060.sgm:<P>I went at once.  Ascending to the third story, I found his room, and, knocking at the door, a feeble voice bade me enter.  I was shocked at the spectacle that met my gaze.  Propped in an arm-chair in the middle of the room, wasted to a skeleton, and of a ghastly pallor, sat the unhappy man.  His eyes gleamed with an unnatural brightness, and his features wore a look of intense suffering.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"You have come too late, sir," he said, before I had time to say a word.  "You can do me no good now.  I have been sitting in this chair three weeks.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>He paused, panting for breath; and then he continued, in a soliloquizing way:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I played the fool, making a joke of what was no joking matter.  It is too late.  I can neither think nor pray, if praying would do any good.  I can only suffer, suffer, suffer!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>The painful interview soon ended.  To every cheerful or hopeful suggestion which I made he gave but the one reply:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Too late!"</P>
060.sgm:<P>The unspeakable anguish of his look, as his eyes followed me to the door, haunted me for many a day, and the echo of his words, "Too late!" lingered sadly upon my ear.  When I saw the announcement of his death, a few days afterward, I asked myself the solemn question, Whether I had dealt faithfully with this light-hearted, gifted man when he was within my reach.  His last look is before me now, as I pencil these lines.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"John A--is dying over on the Portrero, and his family wants you to go over and see him."</P>
060.sgm:<P>It was while I was pastor in San Francisco.  A--was a member of my Church, and lived on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"He is dying and delirious," said a member of the family, as I entered the room where the sick man lay.  His wife, a woman of peculiar traits and great religious fervor, and a large number of children and grandchildren, were gathered in the dying man's chamber and the adjoining rooms.  The sick man--a man of large and powerful frame--was restlessly tossing and moving his limbs, muttering incoherent words, with now and then a burst of uncanny laughter.  When shaken, he would open his eyes for an instant, make some meaningless ejaculation, and then they would close again.  The wife was very anxious that he should have a lucid interval while I was there.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"O I cannot bear to have him die without a word of farewell and comfort!" she said, weeping.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The hours wore on, and the dying man's pulse showed that he was sinking steadily.  Still he lay unconscious, moaning and gibbering, tossing from side to side as far as his failing strength permitted.  His wife would stand and gaze at him a few moments, and then walk the floor in agony.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"He can't last much longer," said a visitor, who felt his pulse and found it almost gone, while his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Thank God!" his wife exclaimed, her hot tears falling on his face, that wore a look of strange serenity.  Then she half whispered to me, her face beaming with a softened light:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"That old song was one we used to sing together when we were first married in Baltimore."</P>
060.sgm:<P>On the stream of music and memory he had floated back to consciousness, called by the love whose instinct is deeper and truer than all the science and philosophy in the world.</P>
060.sgm:<P>At dawn he died, his mind clear, and the voice of prayer in his ears, and a look of rapture in his face.</P>
060.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>Dan W--, whom I had known in the mines in the early days, had come to San Jose&acute; about the time my pastorate in the place began.  He kept a meat-market, and was a most genial, accommodating, and good-natured fellow.  Everybody liked him, and he seemed to like everybody.  His animal spirits were unfailing, and his face never revealed the least trace of worry or care.  He "took things easy," and never quarreled with his luck.  Such men are always popular, and Dan was a general favorite, as the generous and honest fellow deserved to be.  Hearing that he was very sick, I went to see him.  I found him very low, but he greeted me with a smile.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"How are you to-day, Dan?"  I asked, in the off-hand way of the old times.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"It is all up with me, I guess," he replied, pausing to get breath between the words; "the doctor says I can't get out of this --I must leave in a day or two."</P>
060.sgm:<P>He spoke in a matter-of-fact way, indicating that he intended to take death, as he had taken life, easy.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"How do you feel about changing worlds, my old friend?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I have no say in the matter.  I <HI REND="italics">have got to go, and that is all there is of it</HI>
060.sgm:<P>That was all I ever got out of him.  He told me he had not been to church for ten years, as "it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Shall I kneel here and pray with you?"  I asked.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"No; you needn't take the trouble, parson," he said, gently; "you see I've got to go, and that's all there is of it.  I do n't understand that sort of thing--it's not in my line, you see.  I've been in the meat business."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Excuse me, my old friend, if I ask if you do not, as a dying man, have some thoughts about God and eternity?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>"That's not in my line, and I could n't do much thinking now any way.  It's all right, parson--I've got to go, and Old Master will do right about it."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Thus he died without a prayer, and without a fear, and his case is left to the theologians who can understand it, and to the "Old Master" who will do right.</P>
060.sgm:<P>I was called to see a lady who was dying at North Beach, San Francisco.  Her history was a singularly sad one, illustrating the ups and downs of California life in a startling manner.  From opulence to poverty, and from poverty to sorrow, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"She is unconscious, poor thing!" said a lady who was in attendance, "and she will fail of her dearest wish."</P>
060.sgm:<P>The dying mother lay with a flushed face, breathing painfully, with closed eyes, and moaning piteously.  Suddenly her eyes opened, and she glanced inquiringly around the room.  They understood her.  The daughter and her betrothed were sent for.  The mother's face brightened as they entered, and she turned to me and said, in a faint voice:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Go on with the ceremony, or it will be too late for me.  God bless you, darling!" she added as the daughter bent down sobbing, and kissed her.</P>
060.sgm:<P>The bridal couple kneeled together by the bed of death, and the assembled friends stood around in solemn silence, while the beautiful formula of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>Of the notable men I met in the mines in the early days, there was one who piqued and puzzled my curiosity.  He had the face of a saint with the habits of a debauchee.  His pale and student-like features were of the most classic mold, and their expression singularly winning, save when at times a cynical sneer would suddenly flash over them like a cloud-shadow over a quiet landscape.  He was a lawyer, and stood at the head of the bar.  He was an orator whose silver voice and magnetic qualities often kindled the largest audiences into the wildest enthusiasm.  Nature had denied him no gift of body or mind requisite to success in life; but there was a fatal weakness in his moral constitution.  He was an inveterate gambler, his large professional earnings going into the coffers of the faro and monte dealers.  His violations of good morals in other respects were flagrant.  He worked hard by day, and gave himself up to his vices at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"It is the old story," said an acquaintance of whom I made inquiry concerning him: "he has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>It happened afterward that his office and mine were in the same building and on the same floor.  As we met on the stairs, he would nod to me and pass on.  I noticed that he was indeed "failing."  He looked weary and sad, and the cold or defiant gleam in his steel-gray eyes was changed into a wistful and painful expression that was very pathetic.  I did not dare to invade his reserve with any tender of sympathy.  Joyless and hopeless as he might be, I felt instinctively that he would play out his drama alone.  Perhaps this was a mistake on my part: he may have been hungry for the word I did not speak.  God knows.  I was not lacking in proper interest in his well-being, but I have since thought in such cases it is safest to speak.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"What has become of B--?" said my landlord one day as we met in the hall.  "I have been here to see him several times, and found his door locked, and his letters and newspapers have not been touched.  There is something the matter, I fear."</P>
060.sgm:<P>Instantly I felt somehow that there was a tragedy in the air, and I had a strange feeling of awe as I passed the door of B--'s room.</P>
060.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>A policeman was brought, the lock forced, and we went in.  A sickening odor of chloroform filled the room.  The sight that met our gaze made us shudder.  Across the bed was lying the form of a man partly dressed, his head thrown back, his eyes staring upward, his limbs hanging loosely over the bedside.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Is he dead?" was asked in a whisper.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"No," said the officer, with his finger on B--'s wrist; "he is not dead yet, but he will never wake out of this.  He has been lying thus two or three days."</P>
060.sgm:<P>A physician was sent for, and all possible efforts made to rouse him, but in vain.  About sunset the pulse ceased to beat, and it was only a lump of lifeless clay that lay there so still and stark.  This was his death--the mystery of his life went back beyond my knowledge of him, and will only be known at the judgment-day.</P>
060.sgm:<P>One of the gayest and brightest of all the young people gathered at a May-day picnic, just across the bay from San Francisco, was Ada D--.  The only daughter of a wealthy citizen, living in one of the valleys beyond the coast-range of mountains, beautiful in person and sunny in temper, she was a favorite in all the circle of her associations.  Though a petted child of fortune, she <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>A few days after the May-day festival, as I was sitting in my office, a little before sunset, there was a knock at the door, and before I could answer the messenger entered hastily, saying:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I want you to go with me at once to Amador Valley.  Ada D-- is dying, and wishes to be baptized.  We just have time for the six o'clock boat to take us across the bay, where the carriage and horses are waiting for us.  The distance is thirty miles, and we must run a race against death."</P>
060.sgm:<P>We started at once: no minister of Jesus Christ hesitates to obey a summons like that.  We reached the boat while the last taps of the last bell were being given, and were soon at the landing on the opposite side of the bay.  Springing ashore, we entered the vehicle which was in readiness.  Grasping the reins, my companion touched up the spirited team, and we struck across the valley.  My driver was an old Californian, skilled in all horsecraft and road-craft.  He spoke no word, putting his soul and body into his work, determined, as he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Here we are!" he exclaimed, as we dashed down the hill and brought up at the gate.  "It is eight minutes to nine," he added, glancing at his watch by the light of a lamp shining through the window.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"She is alive, but speechless, and going fast," said the father, in a broken voice, as I entered the house.</P>
060.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>He led me to the chamber of the dying girl.  The seal of death was upon her.  I bent above her, and a look of recognition came into her eyes.  Not a moment was to be lost.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"If you know me, my child, and can enter the meaning of what I say, indicate the fact if you can."</P>
060.sgm:<P>There was a faint smile and a slight but significant inclination of the fair head as it lay enveloped with its wealth of chestnut curls.  With her hands folded on her breast, and her eyes turned upward, the dying girl lay in listening attitude, while in a few words I explained the meaning of the sacred rite and pointed her to the Lamb of God as the one sacrifice for sin.  The family stood round the bed in awed and tearful silence.  As the crystal sacramental drops fell upon her brow a smile flashed quickly over the pale face, there was a slight movement of the head--and she was gone!  The upward look continued, and the smile never left the fair, sweet face.  We fell upon our knees, and the prayer that followed was not for her, but for the bleeding hearts around the couch where she lay smiling in death.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Dave Douglass was one of that circle of Tennesseans who took prominent parts in the early history of California.  He belonged to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>"Never give up the fight!" he said to me, with flashing eye, the last time I met him in Stockton, pressing my hand with a warm clasp.  It was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>He was taken sick soon after.  The disease had taken too strong a grasp upon him to be broken.  He fought bravely a losing battle for several days.  Sunday morning came, a bright, balmy day.  It was in the early summer.  The cloudless sky was deep-blue, the sunbeams sparkled on the bosom of the Calaveras, the birds were singing in the trees, and the perfume of the flowers filled the air and floated in through the open window to where the strong man lay dying.  He had been affected with the delirium of fever during most of his sickness, but that was past, and he was facing death with an unclouded mind.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I think I am dying," he said, half inquiringly.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Yes--is there any thing we can do for you?"</P>
060.sgm:<P>His eyes closed for a few moments, and his lips moved as if in mental prayer.  Opening his eyes, he said:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"Sing one of the old camp-meeting songs."</P>
060.sgm:<P>A preacher present struck up the hymn, "Show pity, Lord, O Lord forgive."</P>
060.sgm:<P>The dying man, composed to rest, lay with folded hands and listened with shortening breath and a rapt face, and thus he died, the words and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>During my pastorate at Santa Rosa, one of my occasional hearers was John I--.  He was deputy-sheriff of Sonoma County, and was noted for his quiet and determined courage.  He was a man of few words, but the most reckless desperado knew that he could not be trifled with.  When there was an arrest to be made that involved special peril, this reticent, low-voiced man was usually intrusted with the undertaking.  He was of the good old Primitive Baptist stock from Caswell County, North Carolina, and had a lingering fondness for the peculiar views of that people.  He had a weakness for strong drink that gave him trouble at times, but nobody doubted his integrity any more than they doubted his courage.  His wife was an earnest Methodist, one of a family of sisters remarkable for their excellent sense and strong religious characters.  Meeting him one day, just before my return to San Francisco, he said, with a warmth of manner not common with him:</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I am sorry you are going to leave Santa Rosa.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>There was a tremor in his voice as he spoke, and he held my hand in a lingering grasp.</P>
060.sgm:<P>Yes, I knew him.  I had seen him at church on more than one occasion with compressed lips struggling to conceal the strong emotion he felt, sometimes hastily wiping away an unbidden tear.  The preacher, when his own soul is aglow and his sympathies all awakened and drawn out toward his hearers, is almost clairvoyant at times in his perception of their inner thoughts.  I understood this man, though no disclosure had been made to me in words.  I read his eye, and marked the wishful and anxious look that came over his face when his conscience was touched and his heart moved.  Yes, I knew him, for my sympathy had made me responsive, and his words, spoken sadly, thrilled me, and rolled upon my spirit the burden of a soul.  His health, which had been broken by hardships and careless living, began to decline more rapidly.  I heard that he had expressed a desire to see me, and made no delay in going to see him.  I found him in bed, and much wasted.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I am glad you have come.  I have been wanting to see you," he said, taking my hand.  "I have been thinking of my duty to God for a good while, and have felt more than anybody has suspected.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>We had many interviews, and I did what I could to guide a penitent sinner to the sinner's Friend.  He was indeed a penitent sinner--shut out from the world and shut in with God, the merciful Father was speaking to his soul, and all its depths were stirred.  The patient, praying wife had a wishful look in her eyes as I came out of his room, and I knew her thought.  God was leading him, and he was receptive of the truth that saves.  He had one difficulty.</P>
060.sgm:<P>"I hate meanness, or any thing that looks like it.  It does look mean for me to turn to religion now that I am sick, after being so neglectful and wicked when I was well."</P>
060.sgm:<P>"That thought is natural to a manly soul, but there is a snare in it.  You are thinking what others may say, and your pride is touched.  You are dealing with God only.  Ask only what will please him.  The time for a man to do his duty is when he sees it and feels the obligation.  Let the past go--you cannot undo it, but it may be forgiven.  The present and an eternal future are yours, my friend.  Do what will please God, and all will be right."</P>
060.sgm:<P>The still waters were reached, and his soul lay at rest in the arms of God.  O sweet, sweet rest!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
060.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
060.sgm:<P>He was baptized at night.  The family had gathered in the room.  In the solemn hush of the occasion the whispers of the night-breeze could be heard among the vines and flowers outside, and the rippling of the sparkling waters of Santa Rosa Creek was audible.  The sick man's face was luminous with the light that was from within.  The solemn rite was finished, a tender and holy awe filled the room; it was the house of God and the gate of heaven.  The wife, who was sitting near a window, rose, and noiselessly stepped to the bed, and without a word printed a kiss on her husband's forehead, while the joy that flushed her features told that the prayer of thirty years had been answered.  We sung a hymn and parted with tears of silent joy.  In a little while he crossed the river where we may mingle our voices again by and by.  There is not money enough in the California hills to buy the memory of that visit to Santa Rosa.</P>
062.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-062</TITLE>
062.sgm:<TITLE>The early days of my episcopate.  By the Right Rev. William Ingraham Kip: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
062.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
062.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
062.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
062.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
062.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
062.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
062.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>11-26997</LCCN>
062.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
062.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>13578</COPYRIGHT>
062.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<HEAD>THE EARLY DAYS OF MY EPISCOPATE</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:THE<LB>EARLY DAYS OF MY EPISCOPATE</P>
062.sgm:<P>BY THE<LB>RIGHT REV. WM. INGRAHAM KIP, D.D., LL.D.<LB><HI REND="italics">BISHOP OF CALIFORNIA</HI>
062.sgm:<P>NEW YORK<LB>THOMAS WHITTAKER<LB>2 &amp; 3 BIBLE HOUSE<LB>1892</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1892,<LB>BY THOMAS WHITTAKER.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>INSCRIBED<LB>BY THE AUTHOR<LB>TO HIS FRIEND AND BROTHER<LB>THE RIGHT REVEREND WILLIAM FORD NICHOLS, D.D.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>THIS account of the early days of my episcopate was written in the year 1859-1860, with the intention of bequeathing the manuscript to my family, to be put to press after my life had closed, and when the generation of which it speaks should have passed away.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Thirty-one years have come and gone since then.  I live to see the fulfilment of many prophecies it makes the death of many hopes it records.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Beyond the allotted span of years, I meet the new generation that I had made my heirs.  With me still are many friends of the olden time, to whose solicitations I yield in sending forth this work unaltered from the shape it took when I sat down to write the story of the early days of the Church in California, to bequeath it--as Lord Bacon, in his will, did his "name and memory"--"to the next ages."</P>
062.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">March</HI>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>I. THE APPOINTMENT<HSEP>1<LB>II. CONSECRATION<HSEP>6<LB>III. THE VOYAGE TO ASPINWALL<HSEP>12<LB>IV. PASSAGE OF THE ISTHMUS<HSEP>24<LB>V. VOYAGE UP THE PACIFIC<HSEP>36<LB>VI. WRECK OF THE "GOLDEN GATE"<HSEP>47<LB>VII. SAN DIEGO<HSEP>56<LB>VIII. DEPARTURE FROM SAN DIEGO<HSEP>64<LB>IX. SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>70<LB>X. CLIMATE<HSEP>82<LB>XI. THE FIRST SUNDAY<HSEP>89<LB>XII. GRACE CHURCH<HSEP>94<LB>XIII. SACRAMENTO<HSEP>100<LB>XIV. STOCKTON<HSEP>115<LB>XV. MY FIRST CONVENTION<HSEP>124<LB>XVI. MARYSVILLE, GRASS VALLEY AND NEVADA<HSEP>131<LB>XVII. SAN JOSE&acute;<HSEP>154 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<LB>XVIII. MONTEREY<HSEP>165<LB>XIX. THE SPECIAL CONVENTION<HSEP>186<LB>XX. BENICIA<HSEP>197<LB>XXI. SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>203<LB>XXII. RURAL PARISHES<HSEP>242<LB>XXIII. RETURN<HSEP>248<LB>XXIV. CONCLUSION<HSEP>263</P>
062.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<HEAD>I.<LB>THE APPOINTMENT.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>MY interest in behalf of California had been awakened long before I ever expected to be personally connected with the Church on the Pacific.  When I was living in Albany, as Rector of St. Paul's Church, my family physician had a brother-in-law, who was one of the Wardens of Trinity Church, San Francisco.  His letters were regularly read to me, until I became acquainted with the history and advancement of the Church in that city.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In 1852, Mr. Mines, the Rector of Trinity Church, died, and the Vestry wrote to friends in the East for a successor.  The charge was offered to several persons, and at last to the Rev. Christopher B. Wyatt, Assistant Minister of the Church of the Holy Apostles in New York.  About this time, when one day talking with my physician on the subject of California, the question was put to me, I believe by his wife, as if a sudden thought,--"Why would not <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
062.sgm: go?"  The suggestion struck me favorably.  I had been fifteen years in Albany,--had built up a large congregation,--and it seemed as if there was no room for progress or enlargement in the future.  On the other hand, in San Francisco was a new field,--a rising empire,--and there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>Shortly afterwards, I received a call to St. Peter's Church, Baltimore, vacant by the removal of Dr. (since Bishop) Atkinson, to Grace Church.  I determined not to accept it, but having occasion the next week to visit Baltimore, to lecture before some association, I deferred my answer till then.  On the afternoon of my arrival, I called on my old friend Bishop Whittingham.  As I entered his study, he greeted me with--</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Well, I hope you have not come here to tell me you are not going to St. Peter's!"</P>
062.sgm:<P>I answered him that such was my decision, and then we talked it over.  In the course of our conversation I mentioned, incidentally, that if Mr. Wyatt did not accept the call to San Francisco it would be offered to me, and that I was strongly disposed to go.  Bishop Whittingham seemed to catch at this as suggesting new thoughts.  He looked down a moment, and then said in his rapid, impressive way:</P>
062.sgm:<P>"I've new light!  I've new light!  You must go to California, but not as a Presbyter.  You must go out in another capacity.  If you'll go to California, I'll pardon you for not coming to St. Peter's!"</P>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This was the germ of the California Episcopate</HI>
062.sgm:.  Here was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>In October, 1853, the General Convention met in New York, and the subject of Episcopal supervision for California was a prominent matter before it for discussion.  Some time before, the Convocation in California had formed itself into a Diocese, and the question at issue was, whether, as Missionary Bishops, by Canon VIII. of 1844, are elected "to exercise Episcopal functions in States or Territories <HI REND="italics">not organized into Dioceses</HI>
062.sgm:<P>I was accordingly nominated by my old friend Bishop Wainwright.  Bishop Williams told me afterwards that the talk which ensued was exceedingly amusing.  My qualifications were freely discussed, then those of my wife; then our parents were talked over, and finally they got back to our grandparents, showing a belief in inherited traits rather unusual in this country.  Some of the Bishops who were afraid my Churchmanship was rather too elevated in its character, proposed to Bishop Alonzo Potter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>At the same session, the Rev. F. T. Scott, D.D., of Georgia, was nominated as Missionary Bishop of Oregon and Washington Territories.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Both these nominations were at once forwarded to the House of Clerical and Lay Deputies, where they met with some opposition.  The point with regard to California was the constitutional difficulty which had already been mooted in the House of Bishops.  With regard to Oregon and Washington Territories, it was thought by many that the appointment was premature.  Both were, however, confirmed by a large majority.</P>
062.sgm:<P>On the same day I received several telegraphic messages from New York, informing me of the result and urging me to come down at once.  The next morning's mail brought a shower of congratulatory letters from my friends among the Bishops, and I accordingly departed for New York.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I confess, this matter came upon me as a surprise.  Although it had been so much talked about for the last few months, I had doubted to the last moment whether any decided action would be taken by the House of Bishops.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>This was in fact summing up the matter.  There was no room for hesitation or discussion on my part.  After twenty-six Bishops had said it was my duty to go, all I could do was to assent.</P>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II.<LB>CONSECRATION.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>WHEN I look back to the election and consecration, everything seems to me like a dream.  The consecration was over before I had recovered from the first effects of the surprise produced by the election.</P>
062.sgm:<P>When I reached New York, I found the House of Bishops on the point of adjourning.  They had been in session about three weeks and each one was impatient to get hom to his Diocese.  They insisted, therefore, on the consecration at once taking place.  In fact, so hurried was this matter, that I never received any official notice of my election nor did I in any way send an acceptance.  The Bishops talked to me as if my going were taken for granted, and they acted accordingly.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Our Presiding Bishop,--Brownell of Connecticut,--from his age and growing infirmities, was too much exhausted by the long sitting of the House to officiate at the consecration.  As I was to be the first Missionary Bishop sent to the Pacific, he appointed to act as consecrator in his place, Bishop Kemper, the first Missionary Bishop ever elected in our Church.  It was an arrangement very agreeable to my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The consecration was appointed to take place in Trinity Church, New York, the next week, on October 28th, the Festival of St. Simon and St. Jude.  The Bishops who took part in the services were, Kemper (Wisconsin), A. Lee (Delaware), Boone (Foreign Missionary Bishop to China), Freeman (Arkansas), Burgess (Maine), Upfold (Indiana), Whitehouse (Illinois), and Wainwright (New York).  Besides these, two clergymen were present from our mother Church of England, and read the lessons.  These were the Venerable Archdeacon Trew, of Nassau, West Indies, and Edmund Hobhouse, Fellow of Merton College, Oxford, since appointed Bishop of Nelson in New Zealand.  The presentation of the candidate was to have been made by my old friends, Bishops Whittingham and Wainwright.  The former, however, was too ill to leave his room, and Bishop Upfold was substituted.  Bishop Brownell appointed, to deliver the sermon, my brother-in-law, Bishop Burgess of Maine.  His discourse was from I Thess. i. 5--"For our Gospel came not unto you in word only, but also in power, and in the Holy Ghost, and in much assurance, as ye know what manner of men we were among you for your sake."  From this eloquent production I must make two extracts.  The first is his description of California: --</P>
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062.sgm:<P>"In this foremost temple of the great mart and metropolis of this new western world, we are assembled for a work which cannot be without fruit in distant regions.  From this spot, and from the act which we are now to accomplish, the course, if Providence favors it, is straight to the Golden Gate which opens towards eastern Asia.  He who shall enter there as the first Protestant Bishop, will see before him the land which is the treasure house of this Republic.  Behind it are the vales and rivers and snowy mountains, which are to our far west the farther west, and amidst them lie the seats of that abominable and sensual impiety, 'the cry of which goes up to heaven, like that of Sodom and Gomorrah, from the valley of the Dead Salt Sea.  Still beyond spread the deserts which divide, but will not long divide, the Christians of this continent.  Upon the edge of this vast field he will stand when he shall place his foot on the shore of the Pacific.  There he is to labor, and there, in the common course of Providence, are to be his life-long abode and his grave.  There he is to be occupied in laying the foundations of a Church which must be a pillar and ground of the truth for wide lands and for unborn millions.  While it retains and upholds the doctrine and the discipline of the Apostles, it must pre-eminently shine as a city set on an hill, and as a light of the world.  Few of the issues can he live to witness.  But, in the years to come, if years are given him, he must recall the prospects which opened upon him in this hour, and again when he saw the coast of that Western Ocean."</P>
062.sgm:<P>The other is the conclusion,--the address to the candidate--which draws a picture of the difficulties to be encountered, which each year has since realized:--</P>
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062.sgm:<P>And now, my dear brother, now, more than ever before, this work is to be made yours, with the highest responsibilities, the largest sphere, the most various tasks, and I will not refrain from adding, the most peculiar perils.  It is not the Episcopate alone, nor the Missionary Episcopate alone.  It is an Episcopate to be exercised where fellow laborers are still to be gathered; where seminaries are yet to be founded; where congregations are mostly to be begun.  There is no past on which you can lean; and it is more than possible that around you will be little of that support which we need and find among the incitements and encouragements of well-established Christian communities.  The minister of Christ whose charge is remote and lonely, must walk with God, or sink into spiritual slumber; for no mortal aid will fan continually the flame upon his inward altar.  You go where thirst for gold, impatience of restraint, the vices of adventurers, and all the ills of unavoidable lawlessness, have been before you; where the softening and instructive influences of old age and of childhood, can, as yet, be little known, and where female piety throws but a small measure of its familiar light over the surface and the heart of society.  A lover of the world, a pleaser of men, a reed shaken by the wind, has nowhere his place among the standard bearers of Christ; but least of all, on such an outpost, beleaguered by such temptations.  But of the scene of your labors you will soon know much more than any of us now understand from afar.  There is one armor, and but one, which will prepare you both to defend your own soul, and to carry forward the banner of Christ and of His Church.  Many prayers ascend for you in this house; they can ask for you nothing so needful and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The day opened with a driving rain storm, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:continued through the morning.  At noon, however, it cleared and the sun came out brightly.  The <HI REND="italics">Church Journal</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"The weather was exceedingly unpleasant during the early part of the morning, but after the consecration of the Bishop, and as the Communion office was proceeding, the clouds broke away, and a gleam of tinted sunshine fell upon the altar and lighted up the sanctuary.  This was beautifully illustrative of the history of the Church in California.  The beginnings have long been overcast with storms and clouds, overhung with darkness and gloom.  But now that a Bishop has been consecrated for her, and clergy will flock with him to labor in the desolate places of that spiritual wilderness, we doubt not that the clouds will ere long break, and roll away, and the All-glorious Sun of Righteousness will shine cheeringly upon a land abundantly bringing forth her increase."</P>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III.<LB>THE VOYAGE TO ASPINWALL.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>So anxious were the Bishops for me to reach my field of labor, that they pressed my immediate departure.  I found it, however, no easy work to break up all the plans of a life-time and to prepare to go out to an entirely strange land; yet less than a month was devoted to this.  I was obliged to spend the next week in a rapid visit to St. James' College, Maryland, where I had promised to deliver the address before the Literary Societies, the Commencement having been postponed to this late period on account of sickness during the summer.  It, however, added much to the pleasure of the journey to have the company of my friend Mr. Hobhouse.  Then came two weeks of labor and packing at Albany, with the pain of an auction that dispersed old familiar household treasures which I could not take with me.  Then the leave-taking and the farewell sermon, and on Monday I turned my back upon what had been my home for fifteen years. Two days' visit to West Point, to take leave of my son Lawrence,--a few days at New Haven, at Mrs. Hillhouse's, where my wife was enabled to meet with most of her family,--and we went to New York to sail.  My last clerical duty was on Sunday morning, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, Dec</HI>
062.sgm: <P>found me on board the steamer <HI REND="italics">George Law</HI>
062.sgm:<P>At two P. M. the steamer fired her gun, and the last cable which bound us to the wharf was thrown off.  As we slowly glided out into the stream, and saw sorrowing relatives and friends standing on the wharf and waving their last adieus, we felt that our ties to home were broken and we were fairly under way.  It is easy to talk of severing the associations of a lifetime, and going forth to seek a new home, "not knowing the things that shall befall us there"; but when it comes to the actual reality, and we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>At five P. M. the engine was stopped for a few moments, and a small boat came alongside to take the pilot off to his own little vessel, which was dancing on the waves a short distance from us.  Our steamer had previously been searched, and tickets shown to find out those who had smuggled themselves on board.  This is a necessary precaution before we get to sea, particularly in these California vessels, as so many, when funds are wanting, are willing to adopt any measures to get to the land of gold.  Two or three poor wretches were detected and sent back in the pilot's boat. As they were handed--not in the most gentle manner--over the side of the steamer, we were aroused by terrific shrieks, and found they proceeded from a poor German who was being forced into the boat.  He shouted and yelled and clung to the railing, and in all my life I never saw such a picture of agony and despair as was depicted on his ghastly face.  "I paid de ship; oh, mine goots, mine goots, I leave mine goots.  Mine comrade, mine comrade!" he shrieked. "Put him off,"  sternly shouted the captain.  But just as his last hold was being unclasped by the sailors, there was a rush through the crowd, and another German appeared, holding out a ticket.  It was the missing document, just in time to save him.  It seemed that both their names had been placed on the same ticket, which was in charge of his comrade, the clerk had not noticed it, and their ignorance of English prevented them from making the proper explanations.  No wonder he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The first evening was dreary enough.  It was excessively cold, and there was no fire.  Upon appealing to one of the black waiters in behalf of the ladies, he gave us the comforting reply--"No fire aboard dis ship, 'cause you be warm in two days."  There were about seven hundred passengers, the majority of them a very rough set.  In fact it cannot be otherwise, as most of those who flock to California from all parts of the world are mere adventurers.  The unavoidable confusion of this crowd contrasts badly with the order and propriety of our vessels to Europe.  There are about a hundred and fifty first cabin passengers.  As soon as they have finished a meal, the second cabin passengers pour in to get theirs at the same table.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Then, too, there are thieves who go up and down in these steamers for the purpose of stealing.  The returning Californians, who are supposed to be well supplied with gold, are their particular victims. There is necessity, therefore, for the most vigilant police.  On the second day out, a passenger's trunk was opened and rifled. The key was found in the steerage, and a man whom a waiter had seen at two o'clock in the morning in the first cabin was arrested.  He was stripped and examined by the captain and purser, but nothing was found to convict him.  The next day, the mate arrested a steerage passenger who was loading his revolver, as he said, to shoot another. The pistol was confiscated and the man informed that if he indulged in amusements of that kind, he should have summary justice executed upon him.</P>
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062.sgm:<P>In the first few days we had the most remarkable run I have ever seen at sea.  There were scarcely any waves or wind, and everything about us was as calm as it could have been on the Hudson river, presenting no possible inducements to sea-sickness.  Our progress has averaged about two hundred and twenty miles a day.  On board of a ship "one day telleth another."  We lounge in the cabin, try to read, and walk on the deck.  A few, who have the <HI REND="italics">entre&acute;e</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"Sometimes we ship a sea, alas! and sometimes see a ship</P>
062.sgm:<P>We went, one morning, under the direction of the Captain, on an exploring expedition through the ship.  We descended by the narrow iron stairs story after story, until we got below the surface of the water.  There were the immense boilers, and all around us the massive machinery working as smoothly and quietly as possible, seeming, in the results they produced, to be the very triumph of human ingenuity.  The two engines cost about $80,000.  Thence we went down into the crowded steerage.  There, open berths are ranged on each side, and they struck us, particularly when we reached the tropics, as decidedly more comfortable than our closed staterooms.  Open portholes at the sides and gratings above give air and light, while, owing to the assiduous care of Mr. Howard, the first mate, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The first cabin presents a curious appearance, of an evening when the sea is quiet and all can be out.  Dispersed along the tables, which stretch the whole length of the cabin, are perhaps a hundred men playing cards, though all gambling is strictly forbidden.  Many more passengers, male and female, are scattered about, talking or trying to read while a musician who has placed his notes on the table is practising on the violin as coolly as if he were in his own room alone.  By ten o'clock, however, all is quiet in the cabin, for no lights are permitted, after that hour, in the staterooms.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Friday noon found us exactly in the latitude of St. Augustine, and the air gave proof that we were rapidly drawing near to the tropics.  The little stove in the Captain's room (the only one, by the way, in the ship), has been taken down, and to-day the awnings are to be put up.  Overcoats are discarded, and the decks present a summer scene.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The Festival of the Nativity dawned upon us as beautiful a day as the imagination could conceive.  There seemed scarcely a ripple on the sea, and not a steamboat on the Hudson, in the month of June, passes over a smoother surface.  At 8 o'clock we made our first land, the little Island of Maraguana, exactly as the Captain had predicted.  At ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The days now are growing longer.  At half-past six the sun had just set, and the west was covered with golden clouds.  The air was as warm as June, and in the evening the passengers were all gathered on deck, the brilliant constellations in this southern sky rendering it as bright as moonlight.  And thus closed the Festival, as pleasant a day as could be spent, were it not for the consideration of absence from those we hold dear.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Hot--hot! We passed the point of Cuba in the night, and are now within sight of the hills of San Domingo.  A steamer is seen on the distant horizon, which the Captain decides to be the <HI REND="italics">Yankee Blade</HI>
062.sgm:, that left <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>At daylight we had before us the prospect of this beautiful scenery, the high mountains back, and the old city on a plateau at their base.  The steamer weighed anchor at six o'clock and went in three miles to the wharf.  The groups of cocoanut trees with their tufted tops made picturesque features as they rose out of the gardens of the city.  Our first visitors were troops of negroes, who plunged into the water to swim round the ship and dive for coins thrown to them, a performance in which they never failed to be successful, coming up with the money in their mouths.  In company with a few friends, I went on shore and took breakfast at the hotel.  In that delightful atmosphere, before the coolness of the morning had gone off, the breeze blowing in through the open windows, our breakfast of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>Kingston has an antique air, and at the same time marks of a visible decay.  The houses are all alike, with large piazzas and every contrivance for avoiding heat.  Nothing, however, but the arrival of a steamer infuses any life into the place.  The streets are crowded with the most wretched looking negroes to be seen on the face of the earth.  Lazy, shiftless, and diseased, the men will not work since the Manumission Act has freed them.  Even coaling the steamer is done by women.  About a hundred march on board in a line, with tubs on their heads (tub and coal together weighing about ninety pounds), and with a wild song empty them into the hold.  The men work a day, and then live for a week on its wage.  The depth of degradation to which the negro population has sunk, is, we were told, indescribable.  The inhabitants of Sodom were pure compared with them.  "Once," said a gentleman to me, "you did not see an untidy negro in the streets.  Now, look at them!"--pointing to a group of squalid wretches.  This is the unvarying testimony of the residents.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Everything about the streets has a very tropical appearance.  Turbaned negro women are everywhere, offering for sale the greatest profusion of fruits.  We took a carriage to drive into the country, stopping on our way at the Parish Church, which happened to be open.  It is a venerable building in the form of a cross, the walls and pavement covered with monuments of the old aristocracy of the island, or of British officers who had died here.  The Rector, the Rev. Dr. Stewart, had not yet arrived for service, but the sexton, having learned my name, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>Just beyond the city is a fair country house, once occupied by Santa Anna during one of his temporary exiles from Mexico.  The barracks, too, where the West India Regiment is quartered, are near the city.  The Regiment is composed of negroes under the command of British officers.  The privates, with their black faces and crimson uniforms, made a curious appearance.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We drove out to the residence of the Bishop, Aubrey George Spencer.  He is a grandson of Lord Spencer and a descendant of the great Duke of Marlborough.  Both the Bishop and his brother, the late Bishop of Madras, had visited the States, where I had become acquainted with them.  His residence is about four miles from the city, and is the most beautiful place in the neighborhood.  It was purchased by the government for an Episcopal residence, but has been given up by the Bishop for a college.  I regretted to find he was absent for health at his place farther up the mountains, as it would have afforded me pleasure to renew our acquaintance.  The Rev. W. Hanford, of the college, was there, who received us with the utmost cordiality, and with whom we spent a pleasant half-hour.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The summer houses differ only in size.  They have broad verandahs, and the luxuriant gardens are often fenced in with cactus, twelve feet high.  The roads were crowded with negro women on their way to market, their fruit carried in large baskets on their heads, or on little donkeys driven before them.  On our way through town we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Star of the West</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We have an accession of passengers.  Fifty coolies, imported into Kingston from the East Indies, to work in place of the negroes, are going to labor on the Panama Railroad.  Poor fellows!  they will probably soon find their graves.  At two o'clock the gun again fired, and, as before, we swept out into a smooth and summer sea.</P>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
062.sgm:<P>For two days we have been sailing over the Caribbean Sea.  How the very name brings up the stories I read in my boyhood of the exploits of the bold buccaneers in these waters!  The north star, night after night, is sinking in the heavens, while on the edge of the horizon, toward morning, we see the brilliant Southern Cross--that emblem of our salvation--gemmed on the skies, on which the old Spanish Cavaliers gazed with such mysterious awe.  To-night we expect (D. V.) to reach Aspinwall.</P>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV.<LB>PASSAGE OF THE ISTHMUS.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>WE entered the harbor of Aspinwall late at night (Dec. 29th), and at sunrise next morning, from the vessel's deck, had the whole landscape before us.  It is a beautiful bay, with a little straggling settlement of one street which curves round in a semi-circle parallel to the edge of the water.  The steamers formerly landed at Chagres, nine miles distant; but this place has been substituted for it, because at Chagres they were obliged to anchor some distance from the shore, and landing in boats was not only difficult, but also dangerous in stormy weather.  Aspinwall has therefore grown up at once, as a depot.  It consists merely of a few wooden hotels with imposing names, and residences for those connected in any way with the steamer and railroad companies.  Thick forests hem in the line of houses, and cocoanut trees with their high tufts wave over them and grow to the water's edge.  It presents a beautiful scene, and no one, in the warm and balmy atmosphere which was so grateful to us that morning--looking forth on the deep green foliage, the golden sunlight bathing everything, and the clear waters rippling to the shore--would imagine that the air is loaded with miasma.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>When steamers stopped at Chagres, passengers were poled up the river Chagres to Cruces, against a rapid current, often taking three or four days, though they could descend in a few hours.  Now, the Panama Railroad, which begins at Aspinwall, has partly obviated this difficulty.  It extends about twenty-five miles, and by next autumn is expected to be carried through to Panama.  When this is done, one of the greatest inconveniences of a passage to California will be over.  The difficulty now is, not only the risk and trouble of getting yourselves over the Isthmus, but also your baggage.  The safest plan is to send it from New York by express.  This, however, is expensive, costing from forty cents upward a pound, from New York to San Francisco.  Then it is necessary that all articles liable to be injured by water, such as silk dresses and papers, should be enclosed in a tin box with the top soldered in and with a light wooden covering; for the mules, in crossing from Cruces to Panama, will sometimes lie down in the water, and before they can be forced up, trunks are saturated.  A person named Hinckley had recently established an express from ship to ship, that is, from Aspinwall to Panama.  He charged twelve cents a pound, and it was probably the best and safest way for travellers to get their personal effects through.  He sold transit tickets for the Isthmus, including railroad, boat and mule tickets, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
062.sgm: from New Orleans and the <HI REND="italics">Yankee Blade</HI>
062.sgm: from New York came in, a few hours after we did.  After a bad breakfast on the steamer, we prepared to leave Aspinwall.  The train started at nine A. M., and that morning it consisted of eleven passenger cars.  The road leads through an unbroken forest, part of it a wet marsh, but overywhere something new to us from the luxuriance of tropical vegetation.  The cocoanut, palm, and date trees were about us, while occasionally there was some giant of the forest which looked as if it had been attaining its growth since Columbus discovered the country.  Many of them were draped with vines to the top, while the whole formed a dense thicket, which seemed impenetrable.  Beautiful flowers occasionlly bloomed in the forest; so that there was nothing to remind us that it was the end of December.  Every few miles we found ourselves on the banks of the chagres River, which winds round into all sorts of twistings.  Now and the we passed a native hut.  It was always thatched with straw, sometimes without any sides, perfectly open, or else with sides of light bamboo only.  The natives were lounging about, or reclining in their hammocks, almost naked, fine specimens of the <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
062.sgm:.  Occasionally, too, we saw groups of the Irish, who were employed as workmen on the railroad.  They looked pale and miserable, and reminded me of the wretched peasantry seen in the vicinity of the Pontine Marshes in Italy.  It is almost certain death to them to be employed here, and we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>At some little hamlet of the natives, between Barbacos and Gorgona, the railroad at present ends.  Here passengers were discharged on the top of a high, steep, muddy bank of the Chagres River.  This was "confusion worse confounded," and passengers, trunks,express bales and all, were tumbled down to the river in a miscellaneous mass.  Here was lying a number of boats and barges of various forms, in which we were to embark.  Our own was a broad, flat-bottomed boat, holding about thirty-five persons, with a low, wooden awning over it, so that there was just room to sit upright.  On the outside was a broad ledge, on which our six native boatmen walked up and down from the bows to the stern, as, singing a monotonous song, they poled the boat up the river.  They were naked, but for a little cotton cloth around the loins.  The distance was nine miles, and we were nearly five hours in accomplishing it; for the current was strong, and often we seemed to make scarcely any progress.  The scenery, however, was wild and splendid, though the animal life which once abounded has gone.  The waters were formerly filled with alligators, that basked in the sun, and the overhanging trees gay with parrots and monkeys, chattering among the branches; but the rush of Americans through this route, with the constant discharge of their revolvers, has frightened them into other retreats.</P>
062.sgm:<P>As on the railroad, we saw nothing but native huts, and frequently passed women washing clothes on the banks.  After travelling about three miles, we reached Gorgona.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Between five and six o'clock we came within sight of Cruces, and were beginning to felicitate ourselves on our journey's end, when the owner of the boat, who is called the <HI REND="italics">patrone</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We reached Cruces just at evening, to find that, in addition to our own shipload of several hundreds, the hamlet was crowded with returning Californians on their way over from Panama.  Cruces has a population of a few hundred natives and mongrels, all the original houses being the usual thatched bamboo huts.  There is an old dilapidated stone Church, built two centuries ago by their Spanish conquerors, now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>But the worst was to come.  At bedtime the gentlemen of the party were shown to a large garret.  The walls were covered with wooden bunks three tiers high, two more rows through the centre, and the intervals filled with cots.  On each of these cots and bunks was a single sheet, (which looked as if it had been used for a year), no bed, but a pillow without any case.  Here we were to sleep with some two hundred others, of the class we saw downstairs.  We threw ourselves down in our clothes, but sleep was out of the question.  All around us was one wild confusion, kept up through the night.  I have heard sailors talk in the forecastle, and prisoners in the galleys, "but never aught like this."  There were not only the most awful blasphemies that human <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We endured it till about midnight, when my son and I rose and wandered downstairs.  Here, every place was full, men sleeping on benches and under tables, till about one o'clock, when a tremendous noise arose out of doors.  There was a rush, then were heard shouts and blows, and oaths in Spanish, all ending in a regular fight which drew every one to the doors and windows.  It was the arrival of some hundreds of mules, which were to take on the express.  It took an hour to load and get them off.  At this time, too, in one of the native houses near, a <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
062.sgm: was going on, and singing and the music of castinets were united with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>At three o'clock in the morning the tables were again spread, and then commenced a succession of breakfasts, lasting till all the assembled company had gone, some to Panama and some to Aspinwall.  At daylight we called the ladies and paid our bill,--one dollar apiece lodging for those who had bunks, and two dollars each for the ladies who were in the <HI REND="italics">private</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Then came a new scene of confusion, the selection of mules.  Hundreds were brought up and we who had Hinckley's tickets selected from them as we could.  But not being wise in the subject of mules, it proved to me a matter of chance.  Those I received for Mrs. Kip and my son Willie were good; mine was miserable.  The express baggage is bound on mules, two trunks on each; six mules are put under the charge of two natives, and so they set off in small parties.  The wonder to me is, that half the baggage gets safely to Panama, as it is in the power of these natives at any time to drive their mules to one side in the woods and rifle the trunks.  This undoubtedly is sometimes done; for when we left Panama several mules had not yet arrived, and the passengers had to go without their trunks, though the express agent assured them, of course, that the missing baggage would probably soon be in, to be forwarded by next steamer.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In this way, in small parties, the passengers set out from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>As soon as we left Cruces, we plunged into the forest.  The road is but a narrow bridle path through the gorges of the mountains, often just wide enough for a single mule to pass, with high rocks rising twenty feet on each side.  Trees overhang it, and in some places it is so dark that a Kentuckian present said, "it reminded him of the entrance to the Mammoth Cave."  It turns round sharp angles, so that one halting behind, fifty feet, cannot be seen by his party.  Now, there is a high shelving rock to scramble up,--then, one equally steep to descend; so that we involuntarily shut our eyes, and do not pretend to guide the mules.  In these rocks there are often holes for the mule's feet, into which he invariably puts them, for they have been worn by the use of those who have passed over the road for centuries before him.  These deep ravines are sometimes filled up to the mule's knees with mud and water.  Into this he dashes, splashing it over his rider, so that when he reaches Panama he is in anything but a presentable state.  At times, the road expands into a broader space, where there are a few native huts, or a Spaniard has a place of refreshment for travellers.</P>
062.sgm:<P>There is some historical interest about this road.  For centuries it was an Indian path across the Isthmus.  Then the Spanish conquerors came, who improved it, paved it in some places with heavy stones, and over this brought on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>My party soon outrode me, and in the course of the day I was with four or five companies for a time.  Most of the day, however, I was alone.  One one occasion I came up with Mrs. Kip and our party, resting at a native hut.  Finding they intended to remain some time, I passed on, as my mule went so slowly.  I had hired a native to accompany me as guide, to prevent my getting off the path; but after going with me for a couple of miles, he deserted, and went back.  Reaching the native hut, he was recognized by Mrs. Kip and questionedas to why he had left me.  He stated, in reply, that I had got into a by-path and been murdered.  As such things do happen on the Isthmus, and she knew I was alone and unarmed, it can be imagined what an excitement was produced.  The Spaniard at whose hut they were stopping, and who, I afterwards learned, was one of the greatest scoundrels on the Isthmus, did all he could to augment her fears, that he might induce her to employ him to send an express on to Panama.  Fortunately, just at that time, some returning Californians who were crossing towards Cruces came up.  They remembered me by the description my party gave, and having seen me after the native had left, assured them that I must be safe.  However, they were left in the greatest uncertainty till they came up with me, two hours later.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>In the meanwhile I had gone on alone about six or seven miles, whipping up my lagging mule till he and I were tired out.  Now and then some of our own passengers passed me, or two or three almost  naked natives, armed with their machettes or long knives, but we only exchanged greetings.  Perfectly wearied, I thought I must be near my journey's end, when, riding up to a little romantic river, I found some of our passengers resting there, and learned that I had yet six miles to go.  Just then, others, who had passed Mrs. Kip, came up and told us of her fright, and we waited till she arrived.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I subsequently found that this travelling alone was a foolish risk.  The natives, once harmless, have become so civilized as every month to be growing more dangerous and untrustworthy.  One of our passengers, who was alone, was knocked senseless and stripped.  The express party found him in that state and brought him in.  A lady who got behind her party was robbed in the same way.  My son Willie, when at one time he had loitered out of sight of his friends, met some natives who put their hands on him and demanded brandy, but finding he had none, let him go on.  No molestation, however, was offered to me.</P>
062.sgm:<P>A few miles from Panama we leave the mountains and descend into the open country.  Just outside of the city we meet with massive ruins--the remains of former generations--now entirely buried in the rank tropical vegetation, everything showing that a greater race formerly held the country.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We straggled in, as our mules were able, at different times.  Willie got in with one party at half past three o'clock.  Mrs. Kip came in with another at five, having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>V.<LB>VOYAGE UP THE PACIFIC.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>MY first view of the Pacific was from the high grounds which overlook Panama.  It would perhaps have been proper to have got up a sensation on the occasion, but after eleven hours spent on an obstinate mule, I was incapable of any emotions but those of utter weariness.  The prospect, however, from that point was a fine one, with the city below partly hemmed in by its old walls, and then the wide-spread bay beyond.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The old city of Panama was some nine miles further south, but after various sieges, and sacking by the buccaneers, it was entirely abandoned, and the present city founded at the head of the bay.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It possesses the advantage of being further from the ocean, and in a place of greater security against attacks from that side, as vessels of any size are obliged to anchor at least two miles off.  The old city, we were told, is entirely in ruins.  Dense forests have now grown up where it stood, and all that can be seen among the crumbling ruins is the old church tower rising through the foliage.  In this climate, when a place is once deserted, nature immediately asserts her claim to it, and in a few seasons the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>The present city of Panama, like all these old Spanish cities in New Grenada, has the appearance of having been built by an entirely different race from that which now inhabits it.  And such is the case.  The old Spaniards who erected these massive buildings have been succeeded by degenerate descendants of a mongrel race, without enterprise or energy.  They are contented to live in the residences of their predecessors till they fall into ruins, but seem to have not even the skill to repair them.  Panama, indeed, before the emigration to California, had sunk down until it was gradually dying a natural death.  The rush of Americans through it has galvanized it into a temporary animation; but as soon as the railroad is finished, the depot of which will be without the city, it will relapse into its former repose.  The walls around it, massive in their day, are now crumbling to pieces, as is the fine old battery on the point where some enormous pieces of Spanish brass cannon are still mounted.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The greater part of the city seems at one time to have been owned by churches or monasteries.  Most of these are in ruins, the wild vines growing over their walls.  The Cathedral of the Grand Plaza is a very large building, with two high towers, and the front ornamented with statues of saints in niches.  It is built of a rich brown stone, but the sides and towers have been whitewashed, for want <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>The Aspinwall House, with its fine large rooms, reminding us by their polished floors of a French or Italian hotel, compensated for the miserable night at Cruces.  It is on the foreign plan, affording rooms only, while the lodgers go out to a restaurant for their meals.  The native population, as the people in the south of Europe, seem to live in the streets; and the general air of the houses, together with the costumes of the richly dressed women we met, with the black veils thrown over their heads, would have rendered it easy for us to imagine ourselves in a city of old Spain.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It was New Year's Eve when we entered Panama, but the weather was exceedingly hot, and the peculiarly oppressive atmosphere was very exhausting.  Fortunately for us, a ship had arrived a few days before, bringing ice from Sitka in Russian America, and we enjoyed what was a rare luxury in Panama.  Glasses of ice-water at one dime each were in great demand at that time.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The next day was Sunday, although no one would have suspected it from anything to be seen in the city.  The influx of the steamer's passengers was one of the harvests of the shop-keepers of Panama, and every place of business was open to enable them to avail themselves of it.  There is a service performed here for the benefit of the few American residents, by a Congregational minister.  He called on me immediately after breakfast, and offered the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Our steamer, the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm: is probably the most magnificent sea steamer afloat.  Since she came into the Pacific, she has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We went to sea at nine o'clock Sunday night, and for the first week there was but little variety.  We soon settled our selves down to our daily employments of reading and writing, until a home feeling was created.  The principal business of most, however, was to keep themselves cool, for the weather was hot and summer clothes in demand.  We were some distance from the coast, though we occasionally saw some point; the moonlight nights were beautiful, and the Southern Cross just seen on the horizon.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday evening, January</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We reach the Bay of Acapulco, Mexico.  Here the steamer is obliged to stop, to lay in her supply of coal.  We went in at about nine o'clock.  It was almost as light as day, so that we were able to see the features of this singular harbor.  The channel winds among some islands, turns one or two sharp angles, until we find ourselves opposite the little town, when, looking back, we cannot see the passage by which we have entered.  We are completely hemmed in by high hills and seem to be floating in a little lake.  The town itself is an insignificant place on a narrow plateau at the foot of the mountains, and is said to be the hottest place on the coast.  We found the air perfectly stifling, being entirely cut off from the fresh breezes of the ocean.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We have had some cases of Isthmus fever on board, but none so far has ended fatally.  Persons crossing the Isthmus are liable to fever if care is not taken, although my wonder is that more are not prostrated by it.  Many, just arriving from a cold climate, indulge at once in tropical fruits, eat oranges, pine-apples, bananas, and even cocoanuts which the natives hardly eat, and expose themselves to the sun and the night air.  Almost as pernicious as these fruits is the water on the Isthmus, which should not be drunk alone, for it is filled with decayed vegetable matter.  The fever is particularly fatal among the steerage passengers (we had at one time twenty ill from this cause), who, in addition to other acts of imprudence, heat their system with brandy.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The weather has been very pleasant, except some little roughness when crossing the Bay of Tehuantepec, and again in passing the three hundred miles at the entrance of the Gulf of California.  We were in this situation on Sunday the 8th, yet I was sufficiently free from sea-sickness to have service in the saloon in the morning.  Every arrangement was made by Captain Isham to facilitate this object, and we had quite a numerous congregation assembled to unite in the first public worship they had been permitted to enjoy in this year.  Thursday morning we made Cape St. Lucas, and had our first view of California.  Everything so far has gone on admirably.  We have, one day, made as much as three hundred and five miles in twenty-four hours, and our Captain is in high spirits, expecting to make the shortest run ever known.  He looks forward to our breakfasting in San Francisco, next Saurday morning.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, January</HI>
062.sgm:<P>(I copy from my journal).  Last night came the reverse.  At eight o'clock the engine stopped, and on examination it was found that the massive shaft, about twenty inches in diameter, had broken in two.  Providentially we were thirty miles from the coast, with the wind setting off shore.  Had it been otherwise, with the strong current there is drawing towards the land, we might have shared the fate of the <HI REND="italics">Independence</HI>
062.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">America</HI>
062.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Winfield Scott</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:<P>At daylight, the <HI REND="italics">Uncle Sam</HI>
062.sgm:<P>During the morning the sea went down, and we have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:done nothing all day, but drift--drift to the west.  The Captain estimates that we have drifted about thirty-five miles farther off coast.  In the direction we are going, we should bring up one of these days at the Marquesas Islands.  We are not by any means in a pleasant situation.  If we get under way, with one wheel, we can work our way in slowly, over the nine hundred miles of ocean yet to be traversed.  If any accident should happen, and the remaining wheel be disabled, what is to be done?  Our sails are too light to produce much effect, and we should have to wait for a favorable breeze and try to get in to shore, to anchor in some place of safety until relieved.  Besides, there are between nine hundred and one thousand persons on board, and the steamer has not provisions for a protracted voyage.  The Captain has to-day taken measures to guard against this contingency.  We have been put upon two meals a day, breakfast and dinner; tea is abolished.  Some of the ladies, as usual at twelve o'clock, sent one of the waiters to the pantry for lunch, when he came back with the announcement,--"Lunches <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>A quiet, idle day.  The engineers are working at the machinery, in the hope of getting under way in a few days.  The passengers are yawning, sleeping, playing cards from morning till night, trying to read, or discussing our prospects for the future.  The water is as smooth as a mill-pond, and we are slowly going westward with the drift of the ocean, for there is no wind.  It seems strange to see this magnificent steamer, that lately dashed so rapidly through the sea, floating along so helpless and disabled.  We are now served with salt water <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Dolphins and sharks have been playing about the ship all day.  One of the latter was so close to the surface that we could see the pilot fish which always accompanies it, swimming at its side.  The sea is alive with shoals of porpoises, while at a distance we saw a number of small grampus whales.  During the evening there was a large whale not far from us, as we could hear him blow when he rose to the surface.  It was bright moonlight, and we sat in the gallery by our staterooms till a late hour, watching the stars set, one by one, as if their light were quenched in the waste of waters about us.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>. It is rather amusing to hear the opinions of the passengers as to the cause of our accident, and their prophecies of the future.  One Spanish gentleman thus agreeably sketched out our programme:--</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Fust, dere will be hungry; den, dere will be no sugar water."</P>
062.sgm:<P>"But"--said some one,--"there's plenty of sugar on board."</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Ah! I mean de water dat is not salt, for de drink and de shave.  Den, dere will be no wine.  Den, de machinery is fix, an--he no go."</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We kept on drifting until Saturday evening, when it was announced, to the great joy of all, that the machinery was partially repaired, so that one wheel could be used.  Since then we have been heading for San Diego, the most southern point of Northern California, about five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>In the meanwhile, provisions are growing scarce, and we have been put on an allowance of water.  Part of a tumblerfull is given to each one at dinner, none of which is to be taken from the table.  Sunday morning a committee from the four-hundred passengers in the steerage came to the Captain to demand an increase of food.  Upon his refusing to comply, they warned him, that "there were some dangerous men in the steerage."  He thanked them for their information, "as in case of any trouble he should know how to deal with them."  Some of the cabin passengers, however, find it rather long to go without anything to eat from two P. M. till eight A. M. the next day, with the keen appetite people have at sea.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Early this morning we passed within a mile of a whaler, which sent a boat off to us to procure papers.  She was from New Bedford, and had been out somewhat over two years, having on board three thousand barrels of oil.  The boat passed under our quarter, and the papers which could be collected were thrown to it.  They will be read and reread, advertisements and all.  We have again got back to the coast, having made land in the afternoon, and are now in the track of the steamers, so that we may meet the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<HI REND="italics">John L. Stephens</HI>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We have been, for the last few days, getting slowly forward.  Providentially the weather has been calm, and we are approaching San Diego, where we can procure provisions to add to our stock.  It is evening, and the headlands show that we are not many miles distant.  The Captain says we shall reach the harbor about midnight, and we seem therefore to have come to the end of another stage in our protracted voyage.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VI.<LB>WRECK OF THE "GOLDEN GATE."</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>WE entered the harbor of San Diego at about one o'clock on Wednesday morning, the 18th.  It was a calm and beautiful day, that dawned upon us with the softness of atmosphere characteristic of this climate.  The air was as warm as that of June.  On coming on deck, at sunrise, we found ourselves in a deep bay, around which we looked in vain for the town of San Diego.  The landing, or <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The Captain, at daylight, rode up to the town, and succeeded in procuring about fifteen miserable bullocks, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>At three o'clock they got up steam, and we prepared to leave the harbor.  About the same time, a small steamer, the <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
062.sgm:, trading between this place and San Francisco, which also had arrived early in the morning, weighed her anchor and set out on her return.  While the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
062.sgm: was at this time about a mile from us.  Our flag was at once run up with the union down, as a signal of distress, and she came to us.  A boat was sent off to her with a heavy hawser, and her engine was put in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:motion to drag us off.  After straining the hawser to its utmost capacity, without moving us, it suddenly parted.  Another was sent off, which also snapped, in a short time, with the same ill success.  The tide at this time was rapidly falling; and it became evident that it was of no use at present to repeat the experiment.  Captain Haley (of the <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
062.sgm:<P>With the close of the day, most unexpectedly came signs of a change of weather.  The sea became very rough, and the swell of the surf around us gave token of a wild night.  The <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
062.sgm:, however, which was anchored near us, about six o'clock took another hawser, and for some time renewed the attempt.  But after several efforts, which produced no effect, the cable broke like the others.  Seeing it to be a hopeless case, with the storm every moment increasing, and the sea then so high that no boat could pass between the two steamers, the <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Some six months afterwards, I had occasion to go with Captain Haley in his steamer, from San Francisco, down the coast to Monterey.  I asked him what he thought of us that evening, when he went off.  He said, "that for two hours he thought of nothing but himself, that he had never been in such a hurricane, he could not see his course, and did not know to that day how he found his way up the harbor.  When, however, he had time to think of us, he gave up all hope of ever seeing us again."</P>
062.sgm:<P>As the hawser parted, the gale struck us with its full <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:violence.  It was utterly unlike anything I had ever experienced.  It seemed to grow dark at once.  It was indeed one of those tornadoes which occur but once in twenty years on the Pacific, but which when they do come are fearful in their strength.  As it struck the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Another difficulty of our situation arose from the fact, that we had nearly one thousand persons on board.  Most of these, from character and want of self-discipline, could not exert over themselves the control necessary at a crisis of danger, when the strict government of a ship-of-war was requisite.  When, therefore, our ship first went upon the reef, as she keeled over on one side, throwing passengers and everything movable to the windward, there was such a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>And then, every few moments the sea would raise the immense mass and throw it still farther among the breakers, where it would come down with a crash.  This was repeated again and again, and followed by a cracking and straining beneath our feet, which seemed to the uninitiated as if it were parting at midships.  Then every one would hold his breath for a minute or two, till he saw whether the ship were going to pieces, and when he found she had survived that shock, would catch it again with a long gasp.  Every time, too, that she thus struck on her side, there would be a wreck of everything breakable, the very noise of which added to the confusion and fear.  Even the dining tables and settees, which were clamped down with strong iron fastenings, were torn up and hurled to the other end of the saloon.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The question, indeed, on which everything in regard to us rested, was, whether or not the steamer was strong enough to bear all this thumping through the night, without going to pieces.  Had it broken up, few of us could have reached the shore, from which we were more than a mile distant, with wild breakers intervening.  As it was, providentially for us, our steamer was built with the strength of a frigate.  The Captain, next morning, said, that "there was not another steamer on that coast, that could have left at daylight more than a few planks scattered along the shore."  A shipmaster, too, who was at the landing, told us he watched us through the early part of the night, by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>There was another danger, too, even if she held together, which was foreseen and feared by those who were experienced in such matters.  The steamer (as I have stated in a previous chapter), has an upper saloon, the staterooms of which are built on the guards, which extend ten feet over the sides, and form, therefore, the floor of those rooms.  At one o'clock in the morning, the sea commenced tearing up these guards, as she lay over on the windward side, so that as the waves breached over her, they dashed through the staterooms into the saloons.  As she was settling more and more on that side, it was feared that the staterooms and upper works would be entirely carried away, when the sea would necessarily pour down into the lower cabin and fill it.  In this case, even if she held together, the thousand persons on board would be driven forward, to take their stand at the bow, a place which afforded hardly foothold for such a crowd.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Attempts were made during the night to right her, by getting up some sails, but they were at once blown to ribbons, and the foremast cracked in such a way as to be useless.  The engine was kept going, to avail ourselves of any favorable change in the position of the vessel, until the water rose to the furnace gratings, when the fires were necessarily put out.  The passengers were then all summoned to take their stand upon the starboard guards, to try and trim her by the counterbalance of their weight.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>And thus the night,--to many the most anxious they had ever passed--wore away.  Our hope was, that when, towards morning, the tide turned, the gale, as frequently happens, would abate.  I confess, I never in my life so often consulted my watch, or looked so earnestly for the dawn of day.  About three o'clock, after some thumping and straining, the steamer seemed gradually to right herself, so that one danger was lessened.  Why this favorable change occurred,  I have never found any one able to give an explanation.  Probably, as she was driven further upon the reef, she worked her way down into the sand, and got into a more even position.  Happily for us, the reef was entirely of sand, for had there been a single rock beneath her, she would have gone to pieces in two hours.  Towards morning, as we had hoped, the gale abated.  Looking over our beautiful saloon, more than a hundred feet long, I was struck with its changed and desolate appearance.  It was thoroughly drenched, as the sea had swept through it; while tables and settees were torn up and piled against the openings which the waves had made.  On the floor, the passengers were lying in every attitude, having sunk into sleep from utter exhaustion.</P>
062.sgm:<P>There is one consideration, however, connected with this night, which we could not but bear in mind.  It is admitted by all with whom we have conversed, that our grounding on the Zuninga Shoal was providential for us, and probably saved the lives of hundreds.  Had we not done so, we should, in a few minutes more, have passed Point Loma, and been out to sea.  It would have been impossible for us to have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>When the next morning dawned, the wind had abated, and the gale had evidently passed over, though the sea was still exceedingly high.  At eight o'clock, the <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
062.sgm:<P>During the next night, which, providentially for us, was perfectly calm, she did not move in her position, except to list over farther on her side.  This was probably caused by the shifting of the water in her; and towards morning, the sea having gone down, the guns of the steamer were fired, as a signal to the shore.  This brought down the <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
062.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:and the <HI REND="italics">Southerner</HI>
062.sgm:<P>In the afternoon, after taking on the passengers, with a portion of the baggage, the <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
062.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Southerner</HI>
062.sgm: returned up the bay to their former anchorage, and before night all were safely landed on the Plaza, rejoiced once more to set foot on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VII.<LB>SAN DIEGO.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>WHEN we landed from the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:, the usually quiet shore of San Diego presented an unaccustomed scene.  Instead of a solitary individual moving here and there, nearly a thousand people were scattered about the beach.  And a most desolate looking and feeling company we were!  As many as possible had taken refuge under the few roofs there were, while the rest were in parties on the shore, seated on their trunks and wondering what they should do for the night.  The hills back of the Plaza are covered with low straggling bushes, as far as the eye can reach, without a single tree, and therefore furnished no fuel as a means of cooking for the crowd which had been fasting since morning.  I afterwards learned there was much suffering through that night.  Many had of course to camp out in the open air, while ladies, who were fortunate enough to obtain a shelter, found that this was all they had secured.  It was generally an entirely vacant room, with nothing in the shape of bed or bedding.  In addition to hunger, we suffered from cold, for though the days at this season are warm, the nights are chilly, particularly for those whose resting-place is the bare ground and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Towards evening a steamer was seen coming in, which proved to be the <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm: from San Francisco.  On the report of the <HI REND="italics">Uncle Sam</HI>
062.sgm:, that she had spoken us, lying-to, disabled in a rough sea, it was naturally supposed that we would get into some place to refit.  The <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm: was therefore at once despatched by the agents of the company, with a hundred picked men and the proper machinery for a wreck.  The Captain had instructions to look into every port on her way down, until he found us, and to render us any assistance we might need.  Her arrival certainly was most opportune.  The <HI REND="italics">Southerner</HI>
062.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Goliah</HI>
062.sgm: sailed next morning, with such passengers as chose to go in them, having been chartered by the company for that purpose.  As they, however, were small and excessively crowded, our own party were advised to remain and await the departure of the <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm:, which would go in a few days, after doing what she could for the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:<P>As it was, "the lines had fallen to us in pleasant places."  It was my good fortune to recognize in the United States collector at the Plaza, Mr. Bleecker, an old New Yorker, who promptly took every step necessary for our comfort.  Our luggage was placed in his storehouse, while he at once mounted his horse, and rode up to San Diego, to charter a large wagon to take us thither.  Mr. Bleecker returned towards evening, with an invitation from Don Juan Bandini, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>"My party"--which Don Juan invited--really consisted of Mrs. Kip and my son; but some of our steamer friends, hearing there was an opening for obtaining lodgings, at once joined us and mounted the wagon.  I scarcely knew what to say to them, when I found that "my party," children included, amounted to nearly a dozen.  Our host, however, gave us a most hospitable welcome.  An admirable supper in the Spanish style-- <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
062.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Until the coming of the Americans, these people led a life of ease and quiet, in the midst of the fullest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:abundance of everything they could desire.  Kind hearted and hospitable, their houses were always open to strangers who were worthy of their confidence.  Their lives were spent, indeed, in idleness, for, in this climate and with this soil, but little was demanded of them.  The Indian population furnished them with servants, and their time was passed in those amusements which their fathers had brought with them from old Spain.  Then came our countrymen, who robbed their ranches, seized their lands, and drove them to the wall.  At the very time that Don Juan was showing this unbounded hospitality to a party of American strangers, who had no claim upon him--several of whom could not even speak his language--his son arrived from one of his ranches on the other side of the line, ninety miles distant.  He had ridden in on a single horse in one night, to announce to his father, that Walker's company of <HI REND="italics">filibusters</HI>
062.sgm:<P>His residence at San Diego, at which we have now been domesticated for nearly a week, is just on the edge of the town.  It is built in the Spanish style, around the sides of a quadrangle into which most of the windows open, and is only one story high, with massive walls of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
062.sgm:<P>San Diego is a little Spanish town of about a thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:inhabitants, built in a straggling style, and with a perfectly foreign air.  The houses are mostly constructed of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Opposite to Don Juan's is a long Spanish house, the residence of the Padre, one end of which is fitted up as a Chapel.  I looked into it when passing, but found everything, pictures, images, etc., in the worst possible state of tawdriness.  One of our countrymen--a steerage passenger from the ship--followed me in, and lounged round the place with his hat on and a cigar in his mouth!  Four miles further up the harbor is New Town, a more recent settlement, where several of our army officers are quartered; while six miles farther back in the country, at the old Mission of San Diego, a force of about one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>San Diego, just now, is unusually lively.  Our passengers have most of them moved up to the town, where the cabin passengers provide themselves with lodgings as they best can.  The steerage passengers, numbering about three hundred, have been most of them quartered in a deserted hotel, just beyond the town.  Here they are divided into messes, and daily rations are given them by the purser of the steamer.</P>
062.sgm:<P>A schooner, chartered by the company, has just arrived.  The agent is trying to induce a hundred of the steerage passengers to go in her, to prevent the <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm: from being overloaded; but though he offers them five dollars apiece premium, besides a dollar a day during the voyage, they hold back, suspicious of some deception.  In the meanwhile, the <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm: is exerting all her force to get off the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Sunday has come--our first Sunday in California.  Opposite to us, near the little Romish Chapel, are four bells, tied to a frame-work by thongs of ox-hide.  When it is time for Mass, two little boys mount the fence by them, and beat them with stones in each hand.  They have been ringing at different hours this morning, and the people crowding to the Chapel until it was filled to overflowing.  The Indian population are all dressed in their gayest garments, while a party of <HI REND="italics">filibusters</HI>
062.sgm:, armed to the teeth, are lounging <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>I was requested, by some of the residents, to hold service, and was, of course, happy to comply.  We had the room used as the court-room, which is occupied by Mr. Reynolds in the afternoon.  There was no opportunity of giving much notice, and service was not expected, as Mr. Reynolds is never here in the morning; yet there were about fifty persons present, including several of the army officers and their families.  We returned thanks for our late escape from the perils of the sea, and, by a singular coincidence, the Psalm for this morning,--the twenty-second day of the month--contained that description so applicable to our late situation:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"They that go down to the sea in ships, and occupy their business<LB> in great waters;<LB>"These men see the works of the Lord, and His wonders in the deep.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<LB>"For at His word the stormy wind ariseth, which lifteth up the<LB> waves thereof.<LB>"They are carried up to the heaven, and down again to the deep;<LB> their soul melteth away because of the trouble.<LB>"They reel to and fro, and stagger like a drunken man, and are <LB> at their wit's end.<LB>"So when they cry unto the Lord in their trouble, He delivereth<LB>them out of their distress.<LB>"For He maketh the storm to cease, so that the waves thereof are<LB>still.<LB>"Then are they glad, because they are at rest; and so He bringeth<LB>them unto the haven where they would be."<LB></HI>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VIII.<LB>DEPARTURE FROM SAN DIEGO.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>WITH difficulty, we procured to-day something like a large farm wagon, to drive out to the mission of San Diego.  It is about six miles back in the country, our road being most of the way through a perfectly level valley between the hills.  Just beyond the town of San Diego stands a single palm, which is the only tree to be seen for miles in any direction.  The country, like the hills about the Plaza, is covered with low bushes.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Seventy years ago, California was almost entirely divided among these missions, founded originally by the Franciscans.  All the arable land for miles around their residences was cultivated for the fathers by the Indians who were under their influence.  They pretended to hold these lands merely as guardians of the Indians, though their care was often anything but disinterested.  Several years before the occupation by the Americans, these possessions were most of them sequestered by the Mexican Government, and the mission buildings are generally falling to ruin.  These old fathers, however, settled themselves with great judgment.  They chose fine locations, erected solid buildings, and, by planting immense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>The Mission of San Diego originally comprehended a large tract of country, embracing in its jurisdiction several minor Missions under its control.  The buildings are on a hillside.  They have an extensive view down the valley, and are substantially built of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm:.  In the centre is a fine large church, which at that time they were preparing to transform into barracks for the soldiers.  It is well proportioned, with an air of stateliness.  The remains of the pulpit, solidly built of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Here, I had the pleasure of meeting the Rev. Mr. Reynolds, the first clergyman of this Diocese whom I had seen.  He had been prevented from fulfilling his usual engagement in San Diego, the preceding Sunday afternoon, so that I had not before become acquainted with him.  An hour was passed pleasantly with the family of one of the gentlemen attached to the army.</P>
062.sgm:<P>To-day one of the steerage passengers quartered in town died of the Isthmus fever.  Poor fellow, he had just escaped the perils of the sea, to meet his end on land.  He was from Pennsylvania, and as he was not a Romanist, they came to me to perform the funeral service.  Some distance from the town, there is a little enclosure set apart for the interment of foreigners, and thither, towards evening, about a dozen of his late comrades carried him, when I read the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>In the course of the morning, I had, too, witnessed the funeral of an Indian child, in the Romish burying-ground.  The coffin was covered with a gray-colored paper of the kind with which we cover our walls.  The relatives crouched down on the ground around the grave, while the Padre read the service and sprinkled the holy water, and not a sound was heard until he had finished the prayers and turned to go.  Then there burst forth a wild wail of grief, and all rushed forward to throw the first earth into the grave with their hands.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday morning, Jan</HI>
062.sgm:<P>, arrived the summons for us to repair to the <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm:, which was ready to sail for San Francisco; and with regret we took leave of our kind hosts, the Bandinis, by whom we have been entertained for six days with a generous hospitality.  Upon reaching the Plaza, we found that the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:.was lying in the inner harbor, having got off the day before.  Fortunately, during this week had occurred the spring tides, when the water rises to a greater height than at any other time.  Taking advantage of this, as the tide rose every night, by carrying out anchors, and having hawsers on board the <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm: to pull them, she was at length floated off, though leaking badly.  During the past week, we had been accustomed to watch her progress anxiously, every morning climbing a hill back of the town, from which we could see her, though ten miles distant.  Here, by taking several ranges with objects near us, we could judge whether her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:position had changed during the night.  She was now anchored with the hulk into which her cargo had been discharged by her side, and the <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm: (which looked like a mere lighter in comparison with the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We were rowed out to the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:, and after a pleasant dinner with Captain Isham, in the evening we were transferred to the <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm:, which sailed for San Francisco.  After we got under way, one of our cabin passengers, a Mr. Gibson, was found to be missing.  As he was known to have gone to bed on board of the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:, thinking that we should not sail till morning, his absence created considerable amusement, on the supposition that he had overslept himself, and would be annoyed next morning at finding himself left behind.  We subsequently learned, that the next day he was found lying senseless in the hold of the hulk.  To reach the <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm:;it was necessary to descend a plank from the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:, and cross the deck of the hulk to the other side where our steamer was lying.  With the most culpable carelessness, the hatches of the hulk were left open, and I remember how, with many warnings, and by the aid of a lantern, Captain Isham piloted Mrs. Kip and myself around them to the steamer.  In the darkness, and perhaps confusion of being just aroused from sleep, Mr. Gibson must, in crossing, have fallen down a distance of twenty-two feet.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:There he lay, undiscovered, from nine in the evening until early next day.  One side of his head was almost crushed in and his shoulder was broken.  He was removed to the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm: was, of course, excessively crowded, as she was not intended for one-third the number of passengers which were now on board of her.  Yet the weather proved to be calm, so that the few days of our voyage passed without inconvenience.  The most dangerous part of the passage is through the channel of Santa Barbara, which is only a few miles wide, with the coast on one side and a chain of rocky islands on the other.  It is said, there is a variation of the compass here, owing to some local attraction, which renders it useless in passing through the channel.  It is generally foggy, so that steamers run great risks in getting through.  In this way, the <HI REND="italics">Winfield Scott</HI>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday morning</HI>
062.sgm:<P>, the fortieth day since we left New York, terminated our voyage.  As day was breaking we found ourselves off the harbor of San Francisco.  From its opening the inner harbor is distant several miles, forming one of the most magnificent places in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:world for shipping.  As we approached, a gun was fired from the steamer, which echoed far and wide over the hills on which the city is built.  The first thing which struck us was the crowd of shipping at the wharves, reminding us of the wharves of New York.  Another gun was fired, as we drew nigh the pier, when, early as it was, crowds were seen pouring down from the city.  In addition to the passengers' friends who were anxiously expecting them, after so protracted a voyage, many came to learn the fate of the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IX.<LB>SAN FRANCISCO.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>IT is curious to stand on the deck of a crowded steamer, as she is passing through the "Golden Gate" and entering the noble harbor of San Francisco.  There are a few returning Californians, who are pointing out every object of interest with which they were formerly familiar; but the majority of the passengers are gazing with earnestness on the untried scene which is to them but the land of promise.  Most of them have come as adventurers to that new home, and the result is yet to show whether any of their expectations are ever to be realized.  Some are coming to retrieve broken fortunes, and, instead of reaping the golden harvest, how many will find a grave in the already crowded cemetery of San Francisco--dying, "strangers in a strange land"--; or else be glad, in a few months, to take passage home in some returning steamer!  Many are ladies and children, whose husbands and fathers, having succeeded in business, have now sent for their families to join them.  We belonged to none of these classes; yet none, probably, looked out with more interest on their future home than we did, when on that beautiful Sunday morning, just as the sun was rising over the distant mountains, we found ourselves entering the harbor.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>The first thing which strikes the stranger with surprise, on passing through the streets of San Francisco, is the excellence of the buildings in this city which is little more than five years old.  In Montgomery Street, there are massive edifices of granite and brick which would not look out of place in the thoroughfares of our old cities at the East.  The first generation of houses was, of course, of the frailest kind--the mere temporary expedient of settlers, and but one remove from the tents in which they had been living.  The great fires which desolated the city swept these away--for they burned like tinder--but cleared the ground for more substantial dwellings.  Houses were imported from abroad in large numbers.  One, of white granite, seventy feet front and three stories high, was prepared in China, the stone all cut and ready to put up.  The first company of Chinamen who came out were imported with it, to erect the building.  There is a large wooden house, the second story of which projects ten feet over the first, which to one who has been on the Rhine, suggests at once reminiscences of the "Fatherland."  It was brought out by some Germans.  There is one from Belgium.  That large, chateau-looking building, on the hill, just back of the city, came from France; it is now occupied as the French Consulate.  Every little while you meet with a house half composed of minute panes of glass, which unmistakably show its Chinese origin.  Walk through Mission Street, and on each side of the way are neat and pretty cottages--there must be a dozen in all--exactly alike, which were sent out from Boston.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Every month witnesses a striking change in the outward appearance of the city--a change so great that a six months' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>The whole tone of society is rapidly altering, and one who forms his estimate from the accounts of four years ago, must be widely mistaken.  Then the city was composed, almost entirely, of men.  There were no accommodations for ladies, and the gentler sex would have been sadly out of place among the hardships which marked those days.  Then, we are told, a lady in the street was an object of wonderment, and all stopped and turned round to look at her.  The great disproportion between the sexes still continues, though it is rapidly decreasing.  At the last census, two years ago, there were about thirty thousand males and five thousand females--a curious and probably unprecedented anomaly.  In the usual proportion, there were men enough in San Francisco for a city of one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants.  The population is now estimated at about fifty thousand.  Every steamer brings out ladies and families, domestic ties are forming or renewing, here as elsewhere the softening and refining influence of female society <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>There is something about San Francisco which, strange as it may seem, constantly reminds me of Paris.  There is a freedom from the stiffness and conventionalities of Eastern cities, and a liveliness not seen there.  The splendid cafe&acute;s and restaurants on every street are always open and filled with company.  Families occupy apartments in the foreign style.  The population has come together from every civilized nation on the earth, and from some which can scarcely claim that character.  Every state in our country is represented, and every nation in Europe.  There are thousands of Chinese who occupy streets entirely appropriated to them, and as you see them at their various employments, you could imagine yourself in Canton.  Now and then, you see the Asiatic look of the Malays and Hindoos.  The islands of the Southern Sea have contributed their proportion.  It is curious how near you seem to be to divers odd places which before you have only read about. Placards are up, giving notice of the sailing of ships for Australia and New Zealand.  Last week a steamer was advertised to go on a pleasure excursion to the Sandwich Islands, to be absent but thirty days; and this morning, in the post-office, I was quite startled by hearing one of the porters call out,--"Which is the Sandwich Islands mail?"</P>
062.sgm:<P>What most astonishes a new-comer is the scale of prices.  When I reached San Francisco, it was at its height.  Luxuries commanded a prohibitory price.  Apples, for instance, I have often seen at five dollars apiece.  Rents were startling.  Near my lodgings (in Stockton Street) was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>There were many wooden cottages in the city.  At the East they would cost about fifteen hundred dollars each.  They were without plaster, linen being stretched across the partitions and then papered.  They looked very well, but were highly inflammable.  It was owing to the character of these buildings that the city was so often entirely desolated by fires.  I never dared to hire one, because I was afraid to trust in it my books and papers.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Another disadvantage was, that you could hear noises from one end of the house to the other.  If a child cried in the southeast corner, you heard it in the northwest with as much distinctness as if in the same apartment.  And yet, these cottages rented, on an average, for one hundred and twenty-five dollars a month.  As it was, I took apartments in a brick building,<ANCHOR ID="n9-1">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1"><HI REND="italics">Virginia Block</HI>
062.sgm:<P>In a few months I was able to procure a house which had just been erected.  It was of timber plastered over in the cheapest style, two stories without a garret, twenty-two feet front by thirty feet deep.<ANCHOR ID="n9-2">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm: For this I paid, for the first year, one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-2">In California Street, just below Stockton.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<P>The ordinary price for meals is one dollar.  In the fashionable restaurants of San Francisco, it is, of course, much more for a dinner, but one dollar is the ordinary price in the smallest country towns throughout the State.  Gentlemen are in the habit of hiring rooms in one place and taking their meals at another.  The ordinary price for good board in this way, (board alone,) is sixteen dollars a week.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Servants' wages were,--cooks', from seventy to one hundred dollars a month, chambermaids', from forty to seventy dollars, and nurses', five dollars a day.  Common laborers were paid three dollars a day, and mechanics much more.  A doctor's fee was ordinarily about eight dollars a visit.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Life was not less strange to us in its social aspects, and I can best convey my impressions by following closely the very words of my journal, from which this chapter has been taken.  It must, therefore, be understood as written in 1854, soon after my arrival.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"People live by fortnights in California."  Such is the remark we heard a short time after we arrived, and every fortnight we spend impresses it upon us.  At these intervals of time the steamers arrive and depart, and thus twice a month all the old associations with the East are revived and memories of "home," (as they all call it,) are rekindled.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It is a time of some excitement when the steamers go.  On the 1st and 15th of each month, two of these magnificent vessels,--one for the Panama and the other for the Nicaragua route--are lying side by side, ready at noon to set off for their destination.  Through the morning they are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Few of those who go, however, expect to remain at the East.  There are some, indeed, who have achieved a fortune and depart to settle down in its enjoyment "at home."  And yet many of these, after trying the experiment, have come back again.  They say--"Everything is so tame at the East."  They miss, too, this delightful climate, and find the weather too hot in summer and too cold in winter.  Although they talk about "home," just as the old English colonists used to, of England, nine-tenths of those now in the country will live and die here.  The majority of those who leave on the steamers are merely going on a visit, to return in a few months, or to bring out their families, or on temporary business.</P>
062.sgm:<P>But still greater is the excitement when the steamers arrive.  For days beforehand they are looked for and the time of their coming is calculated.  If delayed a few days, the community is filled with anxiety, and countless speculations are indulged in, to account for their non-appearance.  Friends and relatives are expected, or letters are looked for, and thus everyone has an interest in their coming.  To show the amount of correspondence, even at this early day, I will mention, that one mail recently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>It is at the post-office, however, that this excitement is greatest.  As soon as the mails begin to open, and for several days after, it is besieged by crowds.  To prevent confusion, the direction has been issued, to fall in line in the order of arrival, and consequently, from each of the half-dozen openings for delivery, there extend long lines of men, stretching off into the street and winding around like long serpents.  Sometimes there are more than a hundred in each line, and thus one slowly moves up, and, after waiting for hours, finds oneself at the goal, the head instead of the tail of a long series.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Sometimes an impatient man of business pays a handsome sum for the place of a person who has nearly reached the head.  A friend told me that he went one morning just before day was breaking, and then found himself No. 11.  No. 1 had been there since just after midnight, and when seven o'clock came had the satisfaction of hearing the clerk say, in answer to his inquiry,--"Nothing for you."</P>
062.sgm:<P>Such are some traits of California life.  A gentleman described it to me lately very truly, when he said: "Everything here is hurry-skurry.  It is like living on curry.  But what will the world do for excitement when California settles down?"  The active and energetic have thronged hither from all parts of the world, and there is a rush and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:hurry to grasp sudden fortunes.  Blanks in the lottery are of course innumerable, yet they are seldom heard of, while the prizes are published, and are sufficient to keep alive the hopes of all.  Men who five years ago were worth nothing, are now millionaires.  The changes in the value of property, are almost incredible.  I pass every day a square<ANCHOR ID="n9-3">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-3">In Montgomery Street.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<P>Public morals, however, are improving.  A short time ago Sunday was the great business day.  Now, the counting houses and more respectable shops close.  It is true the theatres are open, and present their highest attractions for that evening, --horse-racing, bear-fighting, etc., are going on, and gambling saloons are in full operation.  Still, there has been a great advance.  Through the morning, at least, the streets are comparatively quiet, and the churches are well attended.  In this respect, Sunday here has somewhat a Continental character.  The gambling saloons now are diminishing in number, and are less and less frequented by the higher class of men.  Three years ago, gentlemen were here without their families, and had really no other comfortable places to resort to.  They slept at their counting houses and offices, and took their meals at eating houses.  When night came, the only bright, cheerful looking places, were the brilliantly lighted gambling saloons, where, too, they had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Still, there is much, very much, to be done here, to breast this current of intense worldliness which is sweeping everything before it.  In 1852 it was so impossible to procure the conviction of a criminal, that a Vigilance Committee was formed of the first men in San Francisco, who, sustained by public opinion, sat as a private court, forcibly seized prisoners when the public courts would have acquitted them, and hanged them in the streets before assembled thousands.  The feeling is still prevalent, that a man must fall back on his right of vindicating himself, and although the duellist is by statute disqualified for public office, this law is a dead letter.  The highest public officers have fought, some of them repeatedly, and only last week a member of the Legislature was killed in a duel with a brother member.  Public opinion has not yet set its seal of reprobation on such things.  As you walk through the streets with one well acquainted with men and matters, he points out to you--"That is the man who killed--in a duel."  "That is Mr.--who shot--last winter!" etc.  Yet their position, neither socially nor politically, seems much affected by it.</P>
062.sgm:<P>But here, as elsewhere, there is the other side.  Here are also the good and the true hearted, the earnest Christian, and those who have retained their fidelity to the principles they learned in their old homes.  In no part of the world would the Church, after a time, be better supported.  Yet we need the aid of our brethren at the East, till it can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>I have written this, after reading a letter just received from a friend in England,<ANCHOR ID="n9-4">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm: dated from "Merton College, Oxford," and it is impossible to imagine the contrast to my mind between the "quiet and still air of delightful studies" which breathes through it, coming out at times involuntarily and the rush and hurry of life about me.  It is strange to look on this exciting scene without sharing in it, being in it yet not of it.  My correspondent says--"There is a general rejoicing here at the successful issue of the visit.<ANCHOR ID="n9-5">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm: The Venerable President of Magdalen College,<ANCHOR ID="n9-6">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm: now in his ninety-ninth year, thanked God that he had lived to see the beginning of a union, which (said he) is the most important step that can be effected for the consolidation and strengthening of Reformed Christendom.  He specially rejoiced in your mission, because it recognizes the Bishop as the <HI REND="italics">essential</HI>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-4">Rev. Edmund Hobhouse, Fellow of Merton College, since Bishop of Nelson, New Zealand.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-5">Referring to the Delegation of the Church of England to ou General Convention in 1853, consisting of Dr. Spencer, ex-Bishop of Madras, Archdeacon Sinclair, and Rev. Earnest Hawkins, Secretary of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-6">Rev. Dr. Routh.  He died next year.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<P>Another,<ANCHOR ID="n9-7">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm: who is widely known in this country for authorship in Church literature, writes me--"I cannot forbear telling you how much I am interested in the success of your undertaking, and how earnestly I hope that God's blessing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-7">Miss Sewell--author of "Amy Herbert," etc., etc.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<P>Doubly pleasant, indeed, to us who are laboring in this "far-off land," are these proofs of the Unity of the Church!</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>X.<LB>CLIMATE.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>WHEN a person feels homesick in San Francisco, he is very apt to say, "Well, after all, one compensation for living here is the climate."  The atmosphere is certainly most bracing and exhilarating.  Day after day, often for a long period, the air is so pure and balmy that it is a luxury to inhale it.  We realize that it adds to the mere physical pleasure of living.  Nowhere have I found winter weather so much like that of Naples as in some places on the coast, such as San Diego, Santa Barbara and Monterey, but the summers are very different, as the great heat of the South of Italy is here unknown.</P>
062.sgm:<P>There is, however, no division of summer and winter, but of the rainy and dry seasons.  The former takes the place of winter, and the latter of summer.  The dry season begins about in May, and after that no rain falls till November or December.  All the moisture which vegetation receives is from the dews or the fogs at night.  Of course, the country then begins to dry up, the plains in the interior become parched and dusty, and, except where there are evergreens, not a bit of green is seen.  In San Francisco, the mornings through this season are generally warm and balmy, but about noon high winds set in from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>The inhabitants complain of these cold winds, and yet they are preferable to the heat of our Atlantic States.  They are, too, great preservatives of health, giving us a new atmosphere every twenty-four hours.  Without this, there would be danger of the plague amid the filth and crowd of the Chinese quarter.  I have seen, too, steamers infected with cholera come directly to the wharf, after having lost fifty or sixty passengers on their way up the coast--in one case patients had died after entering "the Heads'--and although hundreds rushed on board to meet their friends, and the sick were carried up into town, this was the last we heard of it.  In any other city cholera would have spread like wildfire.  Here it is not thought necessary even to make sanitary laws.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In October or November there may be a few occasional showers, though I have known the rainy season not to set in until about Christmas.  Then the winds have ceased, and when it is not rainy, the air is so fresh and balmy, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Before I reached here, I expected, during the rainy season, to find it raining almost all the time.  There is, in this respect, a great difference in different seasons, yet generally, (and I am now writing after five years' experience,) I do not think more rain falls here during the six months of the rainy season, than usually, during the same length of time, at any period of the year on the Atlantic coast.  We arrived here in January, the middle of the rainy season, but for the first ten days we had rain but part of two days, with some showers at night.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I believe no city in the world is more healthy than San Francisco.  Consumption never originates in it, and from its high position on the hills, it cannot be liable to chills and fever.  Should any miasma be generated, it would be swept away by the high winds of summer.  The effect of the climate indeed is very visible on those who have been here for some years.  They are larger, more robust, and have a ruddy, English look, which is not so often seen on the Atlantic coast.  In walking the streets one is struck with the stout, athletic appearance of the male portion of the population.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Many of these remarks about temperature apply to San Francisco only.  In the state there is every variety of climate.  Back from the coast a few miles, through the beautiful valleys of Santa Clara, or Sonoma, or Napa, it is warmer, but with a climate which cannot be surpassed in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>I one day came down the Sacramento Valley, when the thermometer in the sun registered 127&deg;, but I did not feel the heat more than I should have done at the East, at 90&deg;.  Then, too, it is one peculiarity of the climate of this country, that however hot it may be through the day, it is always cool at night.  I scarcely remember to have known in any part of California, a night when it was comfortable to sleep without a blanket.  In consequence there is no exhaustion of the system.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Another feature of the climate, and one which prevents the heat from being felt as much as in other countries, is the exceeding dryness of the atmosphere.  The old Californians (Mexicans) after killing a bullock are accustomed to cut the flesh in strips, (it is here sold by the yard), and to hang it up for a few days in the open air till it becomes entirely dried.  It is called "jerked beef."  When passing their houses in the interior, I have seen the piazza, between the pillars, entirely festooned in this way.  In any other country beef would be spoiled in a few hours, by this exposure.  On the plains I have noticed a peculiar effect of this dryness of the air.  In riding over them I have sometimes passed the carcase of a dead animal which had been left where it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>And yet, the mortality among those who came to California has been fearful.  The two cemeteries at San Francisco--"Yerba Buena" and "Lone Mountain"--stretch far and wide with their almost countless graves, while through the length and breadth of the land, on the hillsides, and in the ravines and gulches through the mines, thousands are sleeping their last sleep, the very spot where they were laid forgotten.  The sick have come here but to die.  Every steamer brings those in failing health, who resort to this climate as their last hope of restoration.  But having postponed the change too long, they come only to swell the bills of mortality of San Francisco.  The exposure in the mines, too, is terrible.  All day long, men inspired by the "greed of gold" work under the burning sun, standing perhaps up to their knees in water.  Their food is insufficient and their accommodations such as give them but little shelter.  Is it strange, then, that disease attacks them, particularly when so many are entirely unprepared by previous training to endure such hardships?  Many, too, are without friends or any associates who know them or care for their welfare.</P>
062.sgm:<P>One day, at a mining camp, it is noticed that some one who has a "claim" near by has not appeared in the morning to dig as usual.  Perhaps a miner, more benevolent than the rest, visits his tent and finds him seriously ill.  For a day or two, a little attention is paid him, but the third morning he is found to be dead.  No one knows him and he is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>This ignorance of each other's names, I found to be particularly frequent with young men of respectable families.  They feel, in their present position, as if they had sunk themselves and are willing to live <HI REND="italics">incog</HI>
062.sgm: until "their pile is made," and they can emerge again into respectability.  They, therefore, are known to their companions by some <HI REND="italics">sobriquet</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Many--very many--die on the journey over the prairies; and when their companions arrive at the Pacific, four or five months afterwards, they have entirely forgotten their existence and make no report.  Not unfrequently, too, in riding over the wide plains of California, one comes to the bleached skeleton of some human being--all that the wolves have left.  He has set out alone from the mines on his return to San Francisco.  Weary, and perhaps ill, he attempts to walk across one of those wide-stretching plains betweenthe Sierra Nevada range of mountains and the sea.  Standing on its verge, the traveler, deceived by the exceeding transparency of the atmosphere, thinks that he can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Or, discouraged at the "diggings," he wanders in broken health to San Francisco.  Here he becomes worse and is carried to the hospital.  Before he has declared his name or residence, the power to do so is gone.  In a few days he is numbered with the dead, no papers are discovered about him to show who he is, and his sole record is found in the coroner's report at the end of the week:--"A man apparently about thirty years of age."  And thus, in California, hundreds pass away, for whom fond hearts at home are yearning, hoping for letters month after month, always ignorant of the fate of the loved and lost.  Constantly the steamers have brought me letters from families, not only in our own country, but in England, making inquiries for members of their little circles who had gone years ago to California and from whom no news had been received.  Probably their closing scenes might be described in one of the ways I have mentioned above.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XI.<LB>THE FIRST SUNDAY.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>I HAVE already mentioned, that it was at dawn on Sunday that we entered the harbor of San Francisco and saw before us the city scattered widely over a series of hills which seemed like "the seven hills" of Rome.  What a contrast to the scene which was presented but a few years before, when there was scarcely a hut on the borders of this quiet bay!  The harbor, and afterwards the city took the name of the old Mission of St. Francis, the buildings of which still remain nestling under the hills, about three miles from the city.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The member of the committee who came on board to receive us proved to be Mr. Augustine Hale, whose letters to his sister in Albany had first awakened my interest in behalf of California. A carriage was waiting, and in a short time we found ourselves at the house of William Neely Thompson, Esq., another member of the committee.  This, for the next fortnight was our home, where everything was done which kindness and hospitality could suggest.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The Rev. Mr. Wyatt at once called on me and insisted on my immediately commencing duty.  I confess, I felt but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:little like engaging in a service, for I had not recovered from all we had passed through during the previous ten days.  But everything in California is <HI REND="italics">onward</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The church was founded by the Rev. Flavel S. Mines.  After laboring awhile and having this edifice erected, his health failed and he died of consumption.  The church is his fitting monument, and he now sleeps beneath its chancel in the hope of a glorious resurrection.  The building was curiously constructed of sheet iron, plastered inside.  On the arrival of Mr. Wyatt and his entrance on the Rectorship, about eight months before my own coming, the church was enlarged by widening it some twenty feet.  At this time the parish was in the very height of prosperity, with a noble, energetic congregation, comprising as much intellect and cultivation as I ever saw gathered in a similar assemblage.  The proportion of gentlemen, (as of course is usual in this city,) was much greater than one is accustomed to see at the East, and before I knew them personally, I was struck with the mere outward appearance they presented.  Everything betokened activity and energy of mind.  There was nothing among the non-Episcopal congregations which could at all compete with the Church, and as the only other Episcopal congregation in the city, Grace Church, was merely in existence, almost all there was of <HI REND="italics">the Church</HI>
062.sgm:<P>In the morning I read the Ante-Communion Service and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>" `And that Rock was Christ.'  It is a text which seems to embrace within itself the very substance and fulness of the Gospel.  And I cannot but rejoice, brethren, that the first message I am permitted to deliver in this place is from words condensing within themselves the whole system of which our Lord was Himself the earliest herald, and which He bequeathed to His ministers to publish to the ends of the world.  Commencing now a new era in my public ministry, and with a great gulf separating the past, with its thronging memories, from the shadowy future, it is fitting that these words should be at once my present theme and the type of what should be my message in days that are to come.  I would have them go on with me, spreading their influence over all that I may say when ministering in holy things, till to me, as to all others, that solemn hour comes when Christ the Rock shall be the dying mortal's only refuge.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"In obedience, brethren, to that voice of the Church to which we can only bow in reverence, I come to you, to labor with you in her cause,--in the words of the Apostle,--`your servant for Jesus' sake.'  I have left the associations of a life-time, to spend the remaining years which God may grant me, where the length and breadth of a continent separate me from scenes which the past has hallowed.  I have left the graves of those most dear to me, to find my own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:where to me the soil has been consecrated by no kindred dust.  Yet I feel that everywhere, over the wide earth, the Church is one,--the same in her spirit and her holy ordinances,--and wherever, therefore, I can stand, as to-day, by the side of her altar, and surrounded by her members, <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"There is indeed, my brethren, a spirit abroad in this land which cannot but rebuke the faint hearted and the idler, and awaken him to zeal and energy.  Where worldliness is earnest, and every faculty is braced to the utmost in the strife for the prizes of this perishing life, shall the follower of the Lord be slothful, when he is struggling for the souls of `a multitude which no man can number,'--when the reward of his labor is to be a crown which fadeth not away?  Everything indeed around you, brethren, summons you to aid those whose cry amid the strife is--`Come up to the help of the Lord!'  Your land, overleaping the natural stages of growth, is springing up at once to a giant manhood with a rapidity never before witnessed, and while this generation is yet on the stage, its spiritual destinies may be determined for all coming time. You are settling this question, therefore, not for yourselves alone, but for your children and your children's children.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"How noble the cause, therefore, in which we are to labor! Who could be recreant in such a contest?  Who can even predict the future which opens before us if we are faithful to these mighty interests which are thus entrusted to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XII.<LB>GRACE CHURCH</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>Now that more than five years have passed since my arrival in this country, as I look back upon them, how many of my most pleasing associations centre in Grace Church!  It is to me the most home-like place in California.</P>
062.sgm:<P>At the first settlement of the country, when the Rev. Mr. Mines came across the Isthmus, the Rev. Dr. Ver Mehr, at the same time, arrived by the way of Cape Horn.  Each had his friends and supporters, and each party commenced the formation of a congregation.  It was a sad mistake, the effects of which the Church in this city feels to the present day.  There should have been but one congregation, instead of two, which divided the energies of the Church.  I have already mentioned the founding of Trinity Church by Mr. Mines. He was a man of energy and talents, and nothing but his failing health and early death prevented the accomplishment of all his  hopes.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Dr. Ver Mehr, too, was a man of talents, highly accomplished, and particularly skilled as a linguist.  He was, however, a Belgian, and had never acquired the English language sufficiently to succeed as a preacher.  He was a fine writer, and his sermons delivered by any one else <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>About 1849, in the first outbreak of the California excitement, I happened to be staying with Bishop Doane at "Riverside," when one evening, Dr. Ver Mehr, then one of the teachers at St. Mary's Hall, came in to inform the Bishop, that he proposed going to California.  I listened to the discussion which followed, without having any idea that I should ever be personally interested in the matter.  I remember, however, that the Bishop strongly urged him not to attempt it.  He stated to him, that he was not personally adapted to a new country, nor was his style of scholarship that which was needed here.  In fact, he prophesied to him exactly the result which afterwards happened.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Grace Church was "built in troublous times," in Powell Street, but unfortunately not paid for.  For some years there was a constant struggle, and Grace Church was always in the field begging money, either by subscription papers, or though the medium of fairs.  Every little while it would be in the hands of the sheriff.  The result was, that the fine lot which the church owned, and which, had it been preserved intact, would have been a splendid site for a larger church when prosperous times came, was pared down, and all of it sold but the ground under the wooden church and the rectory next door, at the corner.  To gather a permanent congregation seemed out of the question.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In the meanwhile, Dr. Ver Mehr and his family had an equally hard struggle for existence.  The church in its depressed condition, could not afford to give them a support, and for several years they endeavored to make up the deficiency by the varying success of a school.  At length, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>This withdrawal took place about four months before my arrival.  From that time, of course, the condition of the church was looked upon as hopeless.</P>
062.sgm:<P>There was generally a Morning Service on Sundays, by the Rev. Orange Clark, D.D., (who had come out as Chaplain of the U. S. Marine Hospital), but there was no Pastor, and in fact scarcely any congregation.  Most of those who felt any interest in the Church had joined Trinity.</P>
062.sgm:<P>On the second Sunday morning after my arrival I officiated in Grace Church, Dr. Clark reading prayers.  There was a full congregation, drawn together, of course, by curiosity, as scarcely any of them belonged there.  Outside of the building, the appearance of things was desolate enough.  Powell Street had not yet been graded, and the church, instead of standing as it now does, several feet below the street, was then some distance above it.  In front a deep gully intersected Powell Street at right angles, through which a small stream of water flowed.  The church was therefore only accessible in Powell Street, from the South, and in rainy weather, there being no planking, hardly accessible at all, as there was danger of being mired.  On the corner was the rectory--a miserable little shanty.  It was shortly after leased for five years to Mr. Vandewater, who, at great expense to himself, transformed it into a tasteful cottage and subsequently purchased it.</P>
062.sgm:<P>That week, the two wardens, Judge Wilde, formerly of Georgia, and Dr. Tripler, chief of the Medical Staff, U. S. Army, on this coast, came to invite me to take the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Thus I commenced my new Rectorship.  After a short time the debt was paid, and the church filled up, so that a competent support was assured to a Rector.  At first, I held service in the morning and afternoon, but soon found that the habits of the people would make it impossible to gather a congregation in the afternoon.  I was obliged, therefore, to have an evening service, and I think that at the present time there is not in the city any religious service on Sunday afternoon.  For about a year Dr. Ver Mehr remained as Assistant Minister, though living at Sonoma.  During that time he came to San Francisco several times to officiate for me on Sunday, when I was obliged to be absent from the city.  This, however, was inconvenient, and as, in the meanwhile, other clergymen had come to the Diocese, so that I could get an occasional supply elsewhere, his connection with the church was dissolved at the end of the first year.</P>
062.sgm:<P>From this time, until my return East, in April, 1857, this was the scene of my labors when I could spare time from other parts of the Diocese.  And of all the twenty years which I spent as a Pastor, there are none to which I look back with so much unalloyed pleasure as to the three and a half years' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Our communicants increased in number to about one hundred and fifty, and for some time there were more than twenty families on the sexton's list, waiting for pews.  For a long while I had been confident, that by building a large church, so that more room could be afforded, and the pew rents so reduced as to bring them within the means of many who could not take them at the present rates, the congregation could be doubled.  In this opinion the Vestry agreed, and a lot was purchased at the corner of Stockton and Sacramento Streets, where it was expected that a new edifice would be erected in the spring and summer of 1857.  Unfortunately, however, after one half the purchase money had been paid, it was discovered that the title was defective.  The difficulties accompanying this were very depressing and delayed the undertaking two years.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1857, it became necessary that I should go East, and I accordingly sailed on the 20th of April.  On the Sunday before, I ordained Ferdinand C. Ewer to the Diaconate, and as he was the only clergyman unemployed, I left him in charge of the church.  It was not until the middle of December that I returned, but during all this time I had most encouraging reports of Mr. Ewer's success in keeping up the congregation.  On my return, therefore, I resigned the Rectorship, and left the charge entirely to him.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Since then the course of the parish has been prosperous.  A lot has been purchased on the corner of Stockton and California Streets, which is now excavating for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XII.<LB>SACRAMENTO.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>A FEW days after my arrival, I had an earnest letter from the Vestry of the church at Sacramento, urging me to take the Rectorship and settle at that place.  Although fully aware of the importance of Sacramento, as the second city in the State, very strong reasons impelled me to feel that San Francisco was the proper place for my residence.  It is the headquarters of all influence in California, the port at which all from the East must necessarily land, and therefore I could probably do most for the general interests of the Church in this Diocese, by a residence at San Francisco.  I determined, however, that Sacramento should be the first place in the interior I would visit, and arrangements were therefore made for my holding service there on the third Sunday after my arrival.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>On Friday, February 4th</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>, at four P. M., I left San Francisco for Sacramento.  The steamers on these rivers are beautifully arranged, with staterooms, a handsome saloon, and every comfort that is found on the fine steamboats at the East.  Travelling is, however, expensive in this country, either by land or water.  To Sacramento the distance is one hundred and twenty miles, much less than that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>After crossing the wide-spread bay of San Francisco, we reached the entrance of two straits.  The most westerly leads out between the high opening known as the Golden Gate, and in the distance we can see the white waves of the Pacific rolling along with their heavy swell, and dashing up against the rocks.  We took the other strait, which is about six miles long and leads into an inner bay called San Pablo.  The strait is studded with little islands, which vary in color, some of them being of red rock, while some are perfectly white with guano.  Toward night they are covered with the sea birds.  The Bay of San Pablo is about twelve miles in diameter, and would furnish anchorage to the largest navy in the world.  Several little streams empty into it, and on one side is an island which has received the name of Mare Island.  In the early settlement of the country, before the wild game had been driven off into the interior, they who coasted along by these shores were accustomed to see roaming over this island a herd of elk, always accompanied by a wild mare, who seemed to act as leader and gallop at their head.  She had left her natural associations with the wild horses pasturing on the neighboring hills, and made her home with these new friends.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We then entered the Straits of Carquinez, with the little village of Benicia (a military station) on the one side, and Martinez on the other.  Seven miles distant on Napa River, is another little town--Vallejo.  General Vallejo, who was military governor of the country before its occupation by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>For the whole distance, after leaving San Francisco, the ranges of mountains by which we were surrounded had the same appearance.  Their shape impresses you with the idea that they have been formed by volcanic action.  And so, undoubtedly, they were.  The strata are rent asunder and piled up in confusion, showing traces of great convulsions.  Since we have been in San Francisco there have been several shocks of earthquakes; some of which seemed to us quite severe, though no damage was done.  There is something unmistakable in the motion.  The tremulousness of the earth is unlike any other shock.  In the southern part of the State they are more frequent.  Sometimes, we are told, the earth rocks like a cradle and great damage ensues.  The old Californians shake their heads significantly when they see the three and four story houses of San Francisco, and prophesy that one day there will come an earthquake which will shake them to the ground.  Their own plan of building was certainly more suitable for the country,--houses one story high, with <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm:<P>But to return to the mountains about San Francisco.  No rocks are seen,--nothing but the round knolls and glades on the hill-sides, generally without a single tree.  The meadows, however, at the base are fringed and dotted with clumps of trees, which sometimes extend up the little glens.  But on the higher parts of the hills,  which are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Above every other object towers Mount Diabolo, three thousand feet high, rugged and scathed, bearing all the marks of an extinct volcano.  It is probably for this reason that the early Spaniards bestowed upon it the name it bears, while everywhere else along the coast, they scattered the names of Apostles and Saints.  On one side, blue and irregular, stretches the Coast Range, and then far on the eastern horizon, as the declining rays of the sun fall on their snowy peaks, we see, like a silvery chain, the mountains of the Sierra Nevada.</P>
062.sgm:<P>After the first fifty miles, our course was through broad plains, on which at times little groups of antelopes were seen grazing, or through waste marshes covered with rank vegetation.  Through this, "the slough," as they call it, winds in every direction. We sail for ten miles, and have really advanced but two.  We look over it and see the white sail of some vessel peeping out, as if it were anchored on the land.  The slough is so narrow that at times it seems as if two vessels would hardly have room to pass, and so close do we often run to shore that it would be possible to jump from the deck of the steamer to the meadow at our side.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:Sometimes, we turn angles so sharp that the stern of the boat grounds, and it requires some man&oelig;uvering to get round the corner.  Here and there a squatter has established himself on the shore, and prepared a little patch of land to raise a crop of vegetables; or where the plains are interspersed with trees, a woodman has planted his shanty on the bank, and there the smaller steamers stop to "wood up."  Then there is seen a scattered village of the Digger Indians, their little huts built of the <HI REND="italics">tules</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Occasionally, on the way, we had pointed out to us the site of projected cities which existed on paper only.  In the first rush of adventurers to this country, amid every other kind of speculation, that in land was very prominent.  It was seen, of course, that there must be some large cities, and the only question was, "where." Speculators seized on sites which seemed to offer good anchorage for commercial purposes, and cities were laid off, and diagrams published, and the lots offered for sale.  Unfortunately for their golden dreams in this part of the country, San Francisco and Sacramento have monopolized the commercial business, and the other promising young cities have faded away into nothingness.  We passed one of the most famous of these shemes, in Suisun Bay, about fifty miles from San Francisco.  On a level plain, with the range of barren mountains behind it, stand three or four houses, which were intended to be the germ of a future metropolis rejoicing in the awkward name of "New York of the Pacific."  As there is no particular reason why anyone should live there,--no trade, no productions but mosquitoes,--these houses will probably be abandoned before long, and the silence of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>I awoke in the morning to find myself at Sacramento.  It lies on a beautiful stream, Sacramento River, about three hundred yards in width.  The country all about it is perfectly flat.  There are no wharves, but hulks are moved close to the shore and fastened to the roots and trunks of trees which grow along the edge.  Over these, steamers make their landings.  A few hundred yards above, is the confluence of the American and Sacramento Rivers.  Here the shore is lined with trees, so that looking away from the young city to the north, as the rays of the rising sun fell upon the masses of foliage, there was nothing to remind us that the busy haunts of men were growing up so near.  With wonderful rapidity Sacramento has grown to be the second city in the state.  It is laid out with the streets at right angles, those running north and south being named after the numbers, those east and west, after the letters of the alphabet.  Standing, as it does, on a level plain, removed from the sea breezes, it is exceedingly hot during the summer months, the mercury rising to over a hundred degrees.  Still, it is very healthy, for in these inland places there is a purity and a dryness in the atmosphere which seem to prevent the heat from being felt as much as it would at the East, when of the same degree.  At the first settlement of the city, many of the forest trees were preserved, and oaks and sycamores, frequently six feet in diameter, lined some of the streets, throwing widely their boughs and furnishing in summer a most grateful shade.  Shortly after, however, the city was swept by a desolating fire which left little of it standing, and the fine old trees <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Sacramento is one of the most bustling cities in the State.  It is one of the principal points from which the mines are supplied, and as you walk through its streets you see the huge wagons, with their six or eight mules, loading with goods; or you meet them on the plains in the broad Sacramento Valley, slowly toiling on to the mountains.  Twenty-two lines of stages leave the city every day.  The inhabitants have shown a degree of enterprise and energy in building up this place for which it would be difficult to find a parallel in any part of the world.  They have been desolated, not only by fire, but by water.  During the rainy season the river rises above the level of the plain on which the city stands, and there have been times when the streets were passable only in boats.  A levee has, however, been thrown up on the river bank, so high, as, probably, effectually to remedy this evil.  In addition to these drawbacks, the city commenced with a competitor.  Three miles down the river, the town of Sutter was founded, which it was supposed would be a formidable rival.  It stands on rising ground, and seems to be in a more pleasant situation than Sacramento.  But it did not prosper.  There was need for one town only, and therefore, as Sacramento grew, Sutter dwindled away.  It is now almost depopulated. Four or five brick buildings, one of them as large as a first class hotel, stand in lonely dignity overlooking the plain below--mere memorials of disappointed hopes.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It seems strange that in a city of this size and importance the Church has not been securely established.  I find many Church people scattered about among its population; some, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:for the present, are attending the services of the different denominations, with the danger of becoming entirely alienated, and, at all events, having their children grow up in utter ignorance of the Church in which their fathers were reared; while other go nowhere and are relapsing into utter indifference on the subject.  The Church in Sacramento has indeed been singularly unfortunate.  In September, 1849, the Rev. Mr. Burnham, of New Jersey, came here in feeble health, and after officiating for a few weeks, became too weak to continue the services and died in the early part of the following year.  It is a strange proof of the facility with which we are forgotten, that I found it difficult to obtain the name of this young missionary, four years after his death.  Even the gentleman in whose house he died could not recollect it!  Then, the Rev. Mr. M. visited the parish and held occasional services for a few months, when he abandoned the ministry and left the country.  In October, 1850, the Rev. Orlando Harriman assumed the charge, but his health failing, he returned to New York in March, 1852.  Then occasional services were held by the Rev. Mr. Pennell, a clergyman of the Church of England, the Rev. Orange Clark, D. D., chaplain to the U. S. Marine Hospital at San Francisco, the Rev. John Reynolds, chaplain of the U. S. A., the Rev. Augustus Fitch, and the Rev. John Morgan.  The three last mentioned returned to the East.  None of these seemed to find sufficient encouragement, and abandoned the field.  At one time the subject of the permanent establishment of the Church was taken up by the people with considerable energy, and a sufficient sum of money subscribed to purchase a lot.  While deliberating on its location, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Standing at the foot of J Street, the principal business street, it presents a strange appearance.  There is scarcely a house in it more than one story high.</P>
062.sgm:<P>These slight wooden `structures with canvas partitions were put up hastily after the fire, and their occupants have not yet been able to replace them with better buildings.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Not knowing any one in Sacramento, I went to the Orleans Hotel, where shortly after breakfast, Jos. W. Winans, Esq., called on me and invited me, with my son, to stay with him at a house, where in company with several other young men, he was keeping bachelor's hall; an invitation which we accepted.  This indeed is the usual style of living, even the married men having in few instances, as yet, brought out their families, as they are only trying an experiment here.  There are therefore but few ladies, and the number of families is small.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I spent Saturday with Mr. Winans in visiting the principal people who were known to have been attached to the Church at home, or who had shown any predilection for it, to kindle up anew their zeal and prepare them for exertion it its favor.  Sunday morning came, rainy and cold.  The flat, unpaved streets were lying in pools of water, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>The next day I met several of the gentlemen of the church, with reference to its re-organization.  As a result they shortly after procured a new incorporation, (Mr. Winans and Dr. J. F. Montgomery, Wardens,) and a clergyman was called from the East.</P>
062.sgm:<P>While at Sacramento, I drove out with a gentleman over the plains which compose the Valley of the Sacramento.  It extends--I think about sixty miles--to the foothills, and is covered with scattered oak trees, like a rolling oak prairie in some of our western states.  About a mile above the city, on the river, we passed an old <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm: house at what was the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
062.sgm: (or place of landing,) when General Sutter first came into the valley.  Two miles farther, on the plain, is Sutter's fort.  It is a parallelogram, about four hundred feet each side, thus giving room within for the buildings and also for enclosures for the cattle.  Here, in the early days of California, the old General ruled like a feudal lord.  With grants from the Mexican government of many leagues of land, he had a territory much larger than most of the German principalities, and with a small band of determined white men about him--trappers and hunters from their youth,--from his fort he controlled the Indians on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:plains.  When gold was discovered and the rush of Americans came, he received the hundreds of immigrants who arrived, with open-handed hospitality.  His cattle were killed for their use, and often his land was freely given to them.  He became thus the prey of sharpers, who gradually stripped him of his possessions.  The patriarch of California and the pioneer--all she has given him is the empty title of Major General of the militia, a cocked hat and a pair of epaulets!  His fort, which is historical in the annals of California, is now deserted,--the wall broken down,--and the annual rains are gradually destroying the <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The old General now lives at the Hock Farm, on Feather River, some ten miles below Marysville.  As he happened to be in Sacramento at this time, he called on me, but as I was absent, he saw my son.  He talked over his past history with him and "fought his battles o'er again."  A Swiss by birth, he had served in the European armies, and at one time occupied the same tent with Louis Napoleon.  But the old General's day is over.  He could not contend against the tide of Anglo-Saxon energy which is sweeping over this land, and it is probable that not an acre of his once vast possessions will be bequeathed to his children.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
062.sgm:<P>, I was again in Sacramento, for the purpose of holding a service the next evening.  The claims of business are so great, that it is hard for many to break away from their week-day cares and devote themselves for an hour to the calls of the other world.  The Legislature, too, was just breaking up and held an evening session.  Notwithstanding, the attendance was good, and everything I see convinces me that they need only a clergyman of proper spirit and talents, to build up a strong congregation.</P>
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062.sgm:<P>It is strange how unexpectedly persons' paths in life cross each other.  Two years before this, in the depth of winter, I had been lecturing at Rochester, N. Y., before the Young Men's Association, when, the next morning, on entering the cars for Albany, I met one of the Mr. Rochesters.  He requested me to take charge of his cousin, Mrs. B., who had come with her children from Kentucky, and was on her way to New York, to sail for California, where she was to join her husband.  I did so, and when we reached Albany, at evening, took her to the ferry-boat by which she was to cross to take the night train for New York.  Here I took leave of her, feeling that she was going to the ends of the earth, and certainly never expecting to see her again.  From that time she scarcely crossed my mind until unexpectedly I met her at Sacramento, which is now her home.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In the course of the day, I visited the Legislature, a body which in this State seems to have the power of locomotion to a great degree.  The primary meetings, when the Constitution was formed, were held at Monterey.  Then it met at Vallejo, and then at San Jose.  Then it removed to Benicia, and in the middle of this session it transported itself to Sacramento.  As the Governor, of course, follows the Legislature around the State, by remaining in office for a few years, he has a good opportunity to become acquainted generally with his constituents in various parts.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I saw the Legislature to disadvantage, as just at the close of the session every member is striving to have some favorite bill taken up.  The election of a United States Senator, too, was absorbing all attention, and every other question <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The speaker of the assembly was introduced to me as Mr. Fairfax.  As in my youth I had spent a winter in Virginia, and knew all his family, I inquired to which branch he belonged, and found that he was the present holder of the title, as "Burke's Peerage" entitles him, "Lord Fairfax of Cameron, the tenth baron."  When I last saw him at his father's, he was three or four years old.  Another curious meeting in this far-off land!</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Summer had come and its heat was prevailing throughout the interior, when I found it necessary to go again to Sacramento, in answer to the appeal of a member of the Church, who, just recovering from a lingering illness, wrote to me of her "very great desire to join once more in the beautiful service."  There were others, too, who needed spiritual services, and I felt I could not neglect the call.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The hills about had put on their deepest golden hue, as the wild oats had dried, it being five months since they had had any rain; and the evergreen trees which grow in the valleys and defiles were thrown out into strong relief.  I awoke in the morning to find myself at the wharf, and in as different a climate as if I had dropped suddenly from the temperate into the tropic zone.  When I left San Francisco the afternoon before, the cool sea breezes were blowing, and I wore an overcoat.  At Sacramento I found it oppressively hot, and during the three days I was there, the mercury must have risen above 100&deg;.</P>
062.sgm:<P>A month previous, another sweeping fire had desolated the city, when twelve squares were burned over.  Some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The Vestry have lately had an answer from the clergyman to whom the call was forwarded.  He declines the invitation, and they are again seeking an incumbent.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Saturday was spent, as usual, in visiting members of the congregation, and particularly one young man who was lying at the hotel, in the last stage of consumption.  He had been confirmed at home, where he knew some members of my family, and had a few days before asked his attendants to procure for him, if possible, the attendance of a clergyman of the Church.  Being sensible of his situation, it was a source of great consolation to him, to have her solemn rites brought to him in that hour.  There is something indeed dreadful in thus dying, away from home, without a friend or relative to stand by the bed-side--to feel the longing for "old familiar faces" in that last hour of nature's feebleness, as, in this case, where, resigned to all that should befall him in the coming world, the sick boy declared his only regret to be that he could not see his family.  And yet, how many die in this way in California--without even a friend to close their eyes,--abandoned to servants--or more frequently, in the interior, without any attendance at all.  How many thousands, for whom friends at home are anxiously looking, have died without leaving even the record of a name behind them, and now are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>On Sunday, I had two services as usual, and administered the Holy Communion to twenty-one communicants.  I also baptized two children.  In the afternoon I administered the Communion to the young man I have mentioned, it being the first time he had received that Sacrament.  Three days afterwards, he died, and, as I had left the city, a layman read the burial service at his grave.</P>
062.sgm:<P>This was my last visit to the parish while it was without a clergyman.  On the 19th of November, two months afterwards, the first Rector, the Rev. Horace L. E. Pratt, arrived and entered on his duties.  From that time, the history of the parish is written in the annual parochial reports.</P>
062.sgm:<P>On Monday at noon, I left for home.  The steamer was crowded with miners--stout, hairy, athletic fellows, most of them having revolvers strapped at their sides.  Upon conversation with one of them, I learned that a flume had broken in the mountains a fortnight before, and as the supply of water was thus cut off from extensive "diggings," more than a thousand miners had been thrown out of employ.  Some were going down to San Francisco for recreation; others were going home.  Very few had succeeded in "making their pile."</P>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIV.<LB>STOCKTON.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>My first visit to Stockton was by appointment for Sunday, February 17th, 1854, in the month after my arrival.  The steamer leaves San Francisco at four o'clock in the afternoon, and reaches there before daylight the next morning, unless detained by fogs or lowness of water in the river.  After proceeding for some hours by the same route as to Sacramento, passing Benicia, we turn aside and enter the San Joaquin River.  Until dark, I found the scenery the same as that of the Sacramento River,--broad meadows covered with <HI REND="italics">tules</HI>
062.sgm:<P>I arose at daylight, and learned that we were still a few miles from Stockton, while the mist which had detained us was gradually rolling off the wet marshes as the sun's rays penetrated through it.  The whole scenery below Stockton--meadows covered with rank, luxurious vegetation--reminded me vividly of the Pontine Marshes.  Formerly, they were tenanted by herds of elk, which were often lassoed by the native vaqueros, but the increasing population has driven them farther into the recesses of the country.  Antelopes, at some seasons of the year, are still seen in bands, feeding on the herbage,--the coyotes (a small species of wolf) make there their home--while innumerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>As we approached Stockton, we entered a "slough" of the river, which leads up through the centre of the town, where it is crossed by several bridges.  The town itself, like Sacramento, stands on a level, and although it would seem from its situation that it must be exposed to a deadly malaria, yet it is tolerably healthy.  Some intermittent fever prevails in the autumn, but it seems to be of a mild type and readily to give way to medical treatment.  During the summer, a breeze from the sea sets up the valley in the latter part of the day, which moderates the excessive heat and at the same time sweeps away malaria.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The earliest white men who visited this place were the trappers from the North,--they were hardly permanent enough to be called settlers.  These sloughs of the river once abounded with beaver, which are still occasionally seen in their waters.  Thither came little parties sent out by the North West Company.  They penetrated through the country wherever traces of beaver were found--encamping by the side of these streams,--leading a wild life, like that of the Indians themselves, to whom they assimilated in their habits, and whose squaws often became their wives.  When the season closed, loaded with pelfries, they repaired to the nearest trading post of the Company.  There, the winter was often spent in revelry, until spring found them penniless and ready to set out once more on a new expedition.  Many of those who came to Stockton were Canadian French, some of whose descendants still remain at a little settlement on the plains, about six miles from Stockton, called French Camp.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The first permanent settler, however, was Mr. Webber, a German gentleman, who in 1844 obtained a Government grant of a tract of land, covering the country for about eleven leagues, and embracing within its bounds the whole site of the present city, which he took active measures to have colonized.  His residence is just below the town, on the borders of the slough.  At immense expense, he has thrown up banks to protect himself from the rising of the water, and formed flower gardens which give a cheerful air to his place.  Few persons, however, would have chosen the location he has selected, when, by going back a mile on his grant, he might have found beautiful sites covered with old oak trees.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Stockton is admirably situated for inland trade, being surrounded by mining districts to which it furnishes supplies.  The <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We reached the wharf on the slough at seven o'clock, when I was met by the warden of the church, Mr. Eastman, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Notice of our service had been given in the public papers, and a large room in the court house was provided, where the judge's seat made a good pulpit and the jury room answered for a vestry room. There were about three hundred persons present.  The number of Prayer Books produced, and the nature of the responses, gave evidence of a degree of churchmanship which argued well for the founding of a strong congregation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Monday also was spent in visiting the members of the Church, and particularly one who was exceedingly ill.  It was a great satisfaction to me to be able, in the last closing hours of life, to repeat in her hearing those familiar prayers to which for so many years she had been a stranger.  She died that night, after my departure, and the burial service was read by the warden of the church.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I left in the steamer, at four o'clock.  Through the whole evening, and as long as I remained on deck, the scenery around us was lighted up by fires.  The dry <HI REND="italics">tules</HI>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
062.sgm:<P>I went to Stockton a few weeks ago, to perform the marriage service, and again, last week, to spend Sunday.  Until a Rector arrives, the only way of keeping the Church alive is by services of this kind.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The vestry have been endeavoring to get a lot, but owing to the unsettled land titles in this part of the country, they have been discouraged from attempting to acquire property.  Nothing can be done until there is a legal decision on the validity of Mr. Webber's grant.  They wrote me lately, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>On this occasion, I stayed with the Resident Physician of the State Insane Asylum.  This institution is situated on the side of the river opposite that on which the greater part of the town is built, but, as I mentioned before, connected with it by bridges.  This side is now building up with dwelling houses, which will make it the finest part of the city.  The asylum is about a half a mile out, where the rolling prairie commences, and is surrounded by trees.  From this place, for miles the country is covered with clumps and groves of oaks, just as it is in the Sacramento Valley.  I rode over it, one day, for several miles, and found the same characteristics of scenery.  Unless a person had some distant landmark in sight, he might easily lose his way on these extensive plains.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The asylum is a long brick building, having now only two stories, though an appropriation has been made, at the late meeting of the Legislature, to enlarge it.  At present <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>"Doctor! is that one of the directors?"</P>
062.sgm:<P>"No."</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Who is he?"</P>
062.sgm:<P>"He's a Bishop."</P>
062.sgm:<P>"What sort of a Bishop?  A Methodist?"</P>
062.sgm:<P>"No; an Episcopal Bishop."</P>
062.sgm:<P>"I'm glad of it.  If he had been a Methodist Bishop, I should have had to kill him.  I'm commanded to kill all the Methodists."</P>
062.sgm:<P>In proportion to the population, insanity is perhaps five times more frequent in California than in any other country.  Adventurers come here from every quarter of the globe, with extravagant hopes of speedy fortune.  When these fail, the restless, undisciplined brain is easily upset.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The following is one of many instances I have known.  One morning I was summoned to the door by a man in the dress of a miner, who said he wished to have some conversation with me.  I, of course, invited him in, and, after we were seated, he took out a small Bible, and said that he had just come from the mines and desired to ask me some questions on religious subjects.  I found in five minutes, that he was entirely deranged, his topics of conversation being a mixture of religion and mining.  He had met with something in Job, about "the vein of gold and silver," <ANCHOR ID="n14-7">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm: and also about "the island of the innocent,"<ANCHOR ID="n14-8">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm: and he wished to find <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-7">Job xxviii 1.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-8">Job xxii. 30.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<P>There is one peculiarity of the California Insane Asylum (which I trust will have been altered before these pages see the light), that should awaken the indignation of all the other states sending their citizens to the Pacific.  In every other Christian country where I have been, the physician who presides over an insane asylum is carefully selected with regard to his fitness for the post, and then holds his office for life or during the continuance of good behavior.  Here, the position is made a prize to reward political partisans.  At every change of politics in the State, out goes the physician of this institution.  Then commences a course of lobbying at the Legislature, and exertions of friends, and the place is finally given to one whose supporters can command most party influence.  Thus, the life and intellect of hundreds of these poor invalids are made the sport of politicians.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Of course, if the power changes every two years, so often must the doctor.  Even if he should be a good physician, (and this does not enter into the calculations of the politicians), he may have no particular skill in the treatment of insanity.  This is a special gift.  And even if he should have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:it, he has no time to study the cases, to watch their changes and conform his treatment to their peculiarities.  The whole matter is a disgrace to humanity, and when it has been in agitation, and I have heard the claims of the incapables urged because their relatives had done service to <HI REND="italics">the party</HI>
062.sgm:<P>In November, the Rev. James S. Large arrived in Stockton and entered on his duties as Rector.  With this visit, therefore, ended my charge as furnishing an occasional supply to the parish.  For the future, my visitations were the usual ones made by a Bishop to the Church.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XV.<LB>MY FIRST CONVENTION.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>The earliest Convention (so called) was held in Trinity Church, San Francisco, in July, 1850, as it is expressed in the report,--"for the purpose of organizing the Diocese of California."  The opening sermon was preached by Dr. Ver Mehr, and the Rev. Flavel S. Mines was appointed chairman.  The Convention met for eight evenings in succession, and adopted a constitution that could have been expanded to meet all the wants of a Diocese the size of New York.  Besides the ordinary Standing Committee, they appointed a Board of Trustees of the Episcopal Fund; a Board of Trustees of the Diocesan Fund; Trustees of the College and Theological Seminary; and a Board of managers of the Presbyterium, (a place for disabled clergymen,) and of the Sanitarium, (a home for infirm widows).  Most of these institutions, after a lapse of years, have not yet commenced their existence.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It is a fact but little known to the Churchmen of this day, that the early founders of the Church on this coast had no idea of uniting with the general Church at the East.  There is no recognition of it in any of their proceedings.  They ignored the name of the "Protestant Episcopal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Knowing that while in this position no Bishop would be consecrated for them, the question of attempting to procure the episcopate from the Greek Church was discussed, previous to the meeting of the Convention.  The Missionary Committee had cut off the stipends for California.  Dr. Ver Mehr and Mr. Mines were of the opinion that the ecclesiastical authority at the East had no jurisdiction over the doctor, who never had been a missionary, or over Mr. Mines, whom by their action they had discarded; and that, therefore, they had a right to organize independently.</P>
062.sgm:<P>But, apparently abandoning the idea of recourse to the Greek Church, the Convention elected as their Bishop the Rt. Rev. Horatio Southgate, who, having been consecrated for a Mission to Turkey, from which he had lately returned, was already a Bishop.  He, however, declined the invitation.  Then three years passed away, during which time nothing further was done to organize the Church.  And when the Convention met in May, 1853, in their report they say: "The Diocese of California, organized in 1850, has remained about stationary--we are obliged to confess it; nay, it may in the eyes of some have seemed to be defunct.  It exists, but in verity we cannot say more."  The Rev. Flavel S. Mines had been removed by death.  Marysville, where the Rev. Augustus Fitch had commenced a parish, was vacant, by his removal to the East in the previous year, and the Standing Committee reported: "At this time the parish at Marysville is defunct."  The same was the case with Sacramento and Stockton.  The two parishes in San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Still no advance had been made in procuring Episcopal supervision.  The idea was entertained here, that as they had regularly organized themselves into a Diocese, the General Convention could not appoint a Missionary Bishop over them.  They therefore appointed a committee to correspond with different Bishops, and procure from some one of them a visit for temporary services.  The report of the Standing Committee contains the following equivocal language: "As a Diocese we ought to manage our own affairs.  <HI REND="italics">Whether we ask for admission into union or not</HI>
062.sgm:<P>At the General Convention of 1853, therefore, California was regarded in the House of Bishops with an evident feeling of distrust.  The impression seemed to be, that the Diocese wished in some way to be independent, and that its organization was made to prevent the appointment of a Missionary Bishop.  The General Convention, therefore, entirely ignored the action of the Diocese, on the ground that it had not subscribed to the Constitution of the Church,--refused to receive its delegates, (two lay delegates being present,)--and the House of Bishops proceeded to the election of a Missionary Bishop.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Before I left New York, considerable doubt was expressed as to the state in which I should find things on my arrival on the Pacific coast.  The last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:conversation I had with one of the members of the Missionary Committee, (Rev. Chas. Halsey), on board the <HI REND="italics">George Law</HI>
062.sgm:, just before she left the wharf, was on this point.  He said to me:--"If there is any opposition, we will at once send into the Diocese half a dozen missionaries, who will give the majority to right principles, and be <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
062.sgm:<P>I, however, had no cause of complaint.  The day after my arrival, the Standing Committee waited on me to present a series of resolutions of welcome, and at our Convention, four months later, the following preamble and resolutions were adopted.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Whereas, this Convention, at its session in May, 1853, adopted measures to obtain an Episcopal visitation of the Diocese of California, by some one of the Bishops of Dioceses in union with the General Convention, under the supposition that California, being an organized Diocese, was precluded from the privilege of having a Missionary Bishop placed in charge over her; And whereas, the General <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
062.sgm:<P>On arriving in California, the question for me to decide was, whether I should regard the Church as still without an organization--mere missionary ground--(which the very action of the House of Bishops in electing me would have justified my doing), and thus begin <HI REND="italics">de novo</HI>
062.sgm:<P>My first Convention in the Diocese met May 3rd, 1854, in Trinity Church, San Francisco.  But two Clergymen were present, the Rev. Orange Clark, D. D., late Chaplain of the U. S. Marine Hospital, and the Rev. C. B. Wyatt, (the only parochial clergyman in the Diocese,) of Trinity Church, San Francisco.  There were lay delegates from three Churches, Trinity and Grace, San Francisco, (I had taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>"In concluding this address, my brethren of the clergy and laity, I would ask to call your attention to one point connected with the organization of the Church in this Diocese.  You are aware that the application for admission to the General Convention, at the late meeting of that body, was not favorably received, nor were the delegates from this Diocese admitted to seats, on the ground that there was no provision in your Constitution, or in the resolutions requesting admission for your delegates, which subscribed to the Constitution and Government of the Protestant Episcopal Church in the United States.  The omission of this clause was, of course, inadvertent, and, it seems to me, that the very application to be admitted into union, was <HI REND="italics">ipso facto</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"There is nothing, that I can discover, in the Constitution of the Church here, which impeaches the validity of its past action or its present organization as a Diocese.  To prevent, however, any further mis-construction and to remove any obstacles which may thus exist in the way of our entire union with our brethren at the East, would it not be well for you to remedy this omission in your Constitution?  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>A committee was thereupon appointed,--consisting of the Bishop, Rev. Dr. Clark, Rev. Mr. Wyatt, and D. S. Turner, Esq.,--who reported an addition to the proper article in the Constitution, by which this omission was supplied.  And then the Church in this Diocese was prepared to take its proper place in the Church in our country.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVI.<LB>MARYSVILLE, GRASS VALLEY AND NEVADA.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>LENT and Easter were over when I determined to see something of the mining regions of the state.  On the afternoon, therefore, of Easter Monday, April 17, 1854, I left San Francisco, in company with Mrs. Kip and my son, in the <HI REND="italics">Bragdon</HI>
062.sgm:, which was to go through to Marysville.  It was with some little compunction that we selected her, for her engine is high pressure, and on one of these boats, only ten days before, the boiler had burst and killed thirty passengers.  However, as the result proved, she carried us both safely and pleasantly to our destination.  As we left our wharf, the <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
062.sgm:<P>On the following morning, at Sacramento, we left the river of that name and entered the Feather River.  The old Californians called it the <HI REND="italics">Plumas</HI>
062.sgm:, on account of the myriads of wild fowl seen on its waters, but Americans have anglicized it to <HI REND="italics">Feather</HI>
062.sgm: River.  The scenery here begins to change in one respect.  In a former chapter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:in describing my visit to Sacramento, I mentioned that the lower part of these rivers, above San Francisco, was almost destitute of trees.  Here they are again seen, reminding us of home and the East.  Broad, prairie-like plains stretch out on each side, which are occupied with a constant succession of <HI REND="italics">ranches</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We had not more than eight or ten cabin passengers.  One of them, with whom I became acquainted, was going up to the mines as one of the partners in a grand company which was spending fifty thousand dollars in laying bare about fifteen hundred feet of the bed of the Feather River.  Out of twenty feet square of the bed, they, last year, took one hundred and seventy-five thousand dollars, and, in this proportion, he expected to make some millions out of their grand operation.  As I never heard anything further of the company, I suppose it exchanged--as most mining companies did--golden hopes for leaden realities.</P>
062.sgm:<P>About ten miles below Marysville is the ranch of the old pioneer, General Sutter.  It is one of the most beautiful places as to situation that I have seen in any country.  The house, except in the centre, is but one story high.  It extends perhaps a hundred feet,--the portico in front covered with vines,--and has a very picturesque appearance.  It stands on a perfectly level plateau, which rises eight or ten feet above the river and stretches back for miles to the mountains.  Here and there, over the whole extent, are clumps of large oak trees, and the country, dotted with groups of cattle, presents the appearance of a wide-spread <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We should have reached Marysville at ten o'clock, but owing to some accident in the machinery, we did not arrive till three hours later.  We felt, however, that this was an advantage, for the day was beautiful and we had a good opportunity of seeing the varied scenery of the river.  Had we made the proper time, much of the river above Sacramento would have been passed before daylight.  About half a mile from Marysville we left the Feather River and turned into a narrow, rapid stream, called the Yuba, so fringed with trees at its mouth as entirely to conceal the town, nor did we see it until we were close upon it.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Marysville is a thriving, growing town of about eight thousand inhabitants.  The hotels are well filled and a constant stream of trade passes through it.  The Presbyterians and Methodists have congregations established here, and the Baptists are making an effort to obtain a footing.  An appointment had been made for me for Tuesday evening, and I found the Methodist house of worship had been courteously offered for our service.  The attendance was exceedingly good, as on a week-day evening most persons in California are too busy to attend to anything but matters which are "of the earth earthy."  There is evidently a large number of Churchmen at Marysville.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In the afternoon I walked down to the Feather River, and, crossing by a primitive ferry-boat attached to a line stretched across, went on a visit to the Indian village on the other side.  The inhabitants are a remnant of the Digger tribe, and are the most degraded Indians I have ever seen.  They dig a cellar room about three feet deep, then place <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>They have one curious custom.  When a member of the family dies, they burn the body, and mix the ashes with pitch procured from the pine tree.  This is smeared over their bodies and particularly over the head.  I have sometimes met them in the mountains, entirely naked, and with the whole head, except the eyes, ears and mouth, coated an inch thick, causing them to look like demons.  This is left to wear off and its permanency regulates the length of their mourning.</P>
062.sgm:<P>At six o'clock next morning (Wednesday), we took the stage for the mining country.  It was a long wagon with a wooden top, holding twelve persons inside.  About half of the passengers were Germans, and as they chattered away in their native gutturals, I could imagine myself in an <HI REND="italics">eil wagen</HI>
062.sgm: in Austria.  For the first seven miles the country was perfectly flat table-land, but it is rapidly being fenced in and appropriated.  We passed immense fields of wheat and barley, some of them nearly a mile in length.  Here and there were clumps of grand old trees, while the distant hills formed a fine background to the picture.  We began, in a few miles, to ascend the hills, after having forded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Along the banks of the river, for several miles, extend flats of sand and gravel, well known as the "Long Bar."  The whole space has been dug over, sometimes two or three times, until it is covered with piles and mounds of earth, like gigantic sand hills.  Most of the miners, we were told, had lately left for some new and richer mines recently discovered at Iowa Hill, but some were still scattered about through the whole length, working singly or in small companies.  Most of them use the common old-fashioned rocker.  They fill it with earth and water, and rock it back and forth like a cradle, until the earth is washed out; while the gold, being heavier, sinks to the bottom.  Some had long sluices--wooden troughs with a stream of water running through them.  Into these they shovel the earth, and in the bottom are slats which catch the gold as it sinks, while the earth runs off with the water.  When the gold is as fine as powder, they are obliged to resort to quicksilver to separate it from the sand.  The miners, we found, were making only from two and a half to three dollars a day.  The expense of living, however, is now much less than formerly.  Meals are given at the shanty eating-houses for eight dollars a week.  The charge two years ago was twenty dollars.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Mingled with these miners are Chinese, who live on the merest trifle, and therefore can afford to work for a smaller remuneration than Americans.</P>
062.sgm:<P>All along the river are tents or log cabins, or, at best, hastily built board houses, in which the miners are living.  The population, is, of course, exceedingly fluctuating, and on the rumor of a richer mine, two-thirds of the people will emigrate.  The only way for the Church to reach these districts, is to have itinerating missionaries who can go around among them and preach from cabin to cabin.  Still, each of the inland villages is the centre of a mining population, and a Church established in any one of them would reach hundreds who are laboring in the vicinity.  Many of them, too, were members of the Church at home, and need only to be sought out and recalled to their old associations.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We were all day passing through hills covered with noble timber.  Sometimes there would be a wide expanse of country, beautifully rolling and set with clumps of trees--giant old oaks, the largest I had ever seen.  For a gentleman's residence here are the most beautiful sites, entirely free from all underwood and presenting an unequalled park ready made by nature.  The oaks were at times interspersed with pines, sometimes an hundred and fifty feet high, straight as an arrow, each fit to be "the mast Of some great ammiral."  The fields, too, and open spaces were covered with the wild flowers which abound in such profusion in California.  The prevailing colors were yellow and purple, though others were mingled with them.  Sometimes there would be several acres of the same hue, completely covering the field.  At times, as we rose on the side of a hill, we could see, stretching before us like a panorama, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:wide expanse of valley and hill-side.  In the plain beneath us rose <HI REND="italics">the Buttes</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We constantly passed the sluices or flumes built by miners to carry water from some distant stream to the "dry diggings."  These are ditches about two feet square, excavated from the ground, where it is possible, but often passing over the valleys in wooden aqueducts.  They are tapped, and a stream is let out to each company of miners that hires from the company.  The Flume Company get about six dollars a day from each company taking their supply.  One of these which we repeatedly passed,--the Deer Creek Ditch,--is twenty-five miles in length.</P>
062.sgm:<P>There is a peculiar code among the miners, and they are strong enough to enforce their own laws.  One principle is, that no mineral lands can be held by proprietors.  A village lot can be, but not a field for agricultural purposes.  An individual may therefore have a fine field in grain, when it is discovered to be a "gold digging," and at once a hundred men encamp upon it, cut it up in shares, and turn up the whole surface for their own benefit.  As soon as miners arrive in a new digging, they elect an alcalde.  Any individual has then a right to appropriate a claim, varying from fifteen to sixty feet square, according to the richness of the mine.  He drives a post at each corner, another in the centre having on it his name, pays the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Sometimes, when a hill is equally rich throughout, it is entirely leveled to the plain.  If there is a plentiful supply of water, they begin at the top and cut down until they fairly wash it all away.  In some places, we saw excavations twenty and thirty feet deep, which had been made by the miners.  In others, they sink shafts to even a hundred feet in depth, until they strike the right vein; then they will follow a vein from one hill-side to another, and trace it on through a wide extent of country.  Often, rocks have to be blasted, and perhaps weeks and even months spent in making tunnels and preparing to wash, when "the lead" is lost and the whole scheme proves a failure.  The finding of the gold, indeed, sets at naught all ordinary geological laws.  It seems as if the whole country had been turned up by the action of fire, its strata thrown into confusion, and gold makes its appearance just where all scientific men said it could not be found.</P>
062.sgm:<P>There is no record of the countless deaths which are taking place from exposure in the mines.  Laboring under the hot sun and in the water, sleeping on the bare ground with only canvas overhead, and with unwholesome provisions, the miner, reared, perhaps in ease, sinks into sickness "which is unto death."  A young friend of mine lived, one winter, for weeks in the mines, on bread he made from pounded acorns.  Unlike the majority of his companions, however, he lived to tell of it.</P>
062.sgm:<P>At noon we reached Rough and Ready--a straggling village of five hundred inhabitants.  It has been built up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We reached Grass Valley at four o'clock.  It is said to be one of the most beautiful places among the mountains, and is surrounded by some of the richest mining spots.  On one side are the famous "Gold Hill" mines, and near are the quartz crushing mills.  The population of Grass Valley is estimated at about two thousand, though this must include the floating mining population.  We stopped at the hotel (a third-rate country tavern), but on inquiring for rooms, I found that Madame Anna Thillon was "starring" it here at the little theatre, and, with her troupe, had taken all the best apartments.  The host at last showed us two miserable rooms, which were all he had for us.  I then inquired for the ladies' parlor, and was informed that Madame Thillon had engaged it for her dining-room.  "Where then"--asked I--"is the lady to sit?"  He opened the door of the desolate looking, uncarpeted dining-room, with a close stove at the end, and intimated that this was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>I knew no one in Grass Valley, but a friend in Marysville had given me the name of Mr. Winchester, and had written to him the day before, to announce my coming, though without knowing whether he was a Churchman.  So, my next step was to seek Mr. Winchester.  I found his home pleasantly situated on the verge of the town, and on sending in my name had a most cordial welcome.  I was further delighted to hear that he was an attendant on the Church.  Learning that my family were with me, he walked down to the hotel to insist on our taking up our abode with him.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We found Mrs. Kip not in the most cheerful frame of mind, and after some faint expressions of reluctance, she consented to accept his hospitality.  We accordingly moved our quarters to Mr. Winchester's pleasant residence.  His family are at the East, and we were inducted into their place.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Upon consultation with Mr. Winchester, it was thought best that I should go to Nevada (as I wished to visit there), on Friday, hold service in the evening, and then return and spend Sunday at this place, where a large public hall could be procured for that purpose.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>In the night we heard the sound of rain, somewhat to our surprise, as we supposed the dry season had commenced and we should see no more rain till next November.  However, Grass Valley is in the mountains, three thousand feet above the level of the sea, and therefore an exception.  It has poured all day, and at times there has been heavy thunder.  How strange it is to realize where I am!  I sat in the window and looked out over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>In the afternoon, during a temporary lulling of the rain, we walked over to the quartz crushing mills.  These are established by a stock company in London, and are the most perfect in California.  Their machinery, sent out from England, bore on it the name so famous to machinists--"James Watt &amp; Co., Soho," and is exceedingly beautiful.  The company has spent about half a million of dollars, and the result of the experiment is yet to be reached.  They can crush about seventy tons of ore a day.  After being crushed several times, till reduced to a powder, it is passed through sluices where the gold and black sand are caught in the lining of blankets.  These are then washed out, and the gold is separated by quicksilver.  A few hundred yards distant is the celebrated "Gold Hill," from which several fortunes have already been made.  The top and surface have been worked over by miners, while at the base it has been honey-combed with tunnels following the veins of gold quartz.  We entered one about five feet high, extending into the heart of the mountain for six hundred and fifty feet, with lateral passages.  At the end of it the miners were then getting out quartz.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Mr. Walsh, the superintendent, mentioned to me a fact which shows what a lottery mining is.  He pointed out a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Rain still pouring down.  At eight, the stage called for me to go to Nevada.  The distance is but four miles, over a mountain of the Sierra Navada range, Nevada being situated on the other side of it.  We toiled up the mountain and through the old woods, by a road which this sudden torrent of rain had cut up, so that our vehicle rocked from side to side, and constant orders were given for all to lean to the right or left, to prevent it from going over.  All this was sadly to the terror of the only lady passenger, who most earnestly wished herself in San Francisco.  On the summit of the mountain, the storm, for a time, changed to snow, and then back again to rain as we descended to Nevada.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Nevada is unlike any other American town I ever saw.  Built up by the miners, without any plan, its streets are narrow and irregular, and it seems crowded into a defile of the mountain.  The hills tower around it on all sides, covered with gigantic pines, one of which was lately cut down measuring two hundred and fifty feet in length.  Change its wooden houses to heavy stone and surround it with a wall, and it would be exactly like some towns perched up in the recesses of the Apennines.  Everything looked gloomy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>I entered Nevada without knowing what success I should have in arranging a service for the evening, or that any steps had been taken for that object.  The manner in which I was obliged, on this journey, to <HI REND="italics">feel</HI>
062.sgm: my way from place to place, is a fair specimen of the way we, here, must "seek for Christ's sheep that are dispersed abroad."  When I left Marysville I did not know an individual at Grass Valley or Nevada, or whether anyone there was attached to the Church.  I have already stated how I found Mr. Winchester and had made arrangements for Sunday.  But what was to be done at Nevada?  It was then Wednesday, and my service would have to be on Friday evening--short time, at the best, for arrangements and notice--and Mr. Winchester did not know the name of a single individual there, likely to be connected with the Church.  At a venture, however, he wrote to a Mr. B--, editor of the <HI REND="italics">Nevada Journal</HI>
062.sgm:<P>This publication brought out other Churchmen, who seemed rejoiced to hear that the Church was to take some notice of them.  Still, the advertisement would be seen by but few, as it was issued within only a few hours of the time--it was raining violently--and Nevada, being without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Just before evening, the weather cleared.  Still, the mud rendered the streets almost impassable.  As they were not lighted, there was no such thing as picking our way.  The Congregational meeting-house (since burned down) was a neat little building, holding about two hundred.Our attendance was about fifty, being forty-five more than I expected under such circumstances.  But as they came dropping in, and I saw from their dress that a number of them were miners, I felt an earnestness and interest in preaching, greater even than I have felt in some of the splendid churches at the East.  After service several of the congregation, who proved to be among the leading men of Nevada, were introduced to me, and they expressed a strong desire to organize a Church and have regular services.  And thus ended the first service ever performed in Nevada.  Years hence, should the Church be established and flourishing in this place, its members will look back with interest to our initiative on that rainy evening.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The situation of this place, crowded between the mountains, prevents its being built in the straggling style usual when we commence a town with "magnificent distances."  It is perfectly compact, and contains some seven thousand inhabitants, a part being the floating population of miners who surround the town.  There are small Congregational and Baptist societies, and a little handful of Methodists, divided, as usual in this country, between two chapels,--Methodist North and Methodist South.  Such are the beauties of schism!  The number of those, however, who attend any service is lamentably small.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Around Nevada are the most extensive mining operations in the State.  The whole land is rich with gold, and even a part of the town has been undermined, and the houses are propped up by beams.  It is said, there is not a foot of ground but contains gold; but as labor is too high to have it all worked, only the rich veins are followed out.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We walked out this morning a few hundred yards beyond the limits of the town, and suddenly found ourselves on the edge of a precipice on the side of the mountain, down which we looked an hundred feet.  It is an immense excavation made by the miners, who have thus literally washed away half the mountain.  The earth is gradually carried away in their sluices, down to Deer Creek, which runs through the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>There is a rich deposit of gravel, from fifty to one hundred feet broad, which runs through these hills.  It was once the bed of a river.  It winds from hill to hill like a serpent, and to trace it tunnels are driven, so that these hills are all perforated and honey-combed.  When it is struck at a distance below the surface, a shaft is sunk, up which the earth is drawn that it may be washed out.  These shafts again are all connected by tunnels, to give a circulation of air and to prevent the collection of noxious gases.  We saw one, a hundred and thirty feet deep, at the bottom of which five men were working, while the earth was drawn up by horse power.  The gold here is all of the best kind, but never found in lumps or grains, only in powder as fine as flour.  It can be collected, therefore, by quicksilver only, which is placed in the sluices through which the water and earth are poured.  The quicksilver, by its natural affinity, attracts the gold and amalgamates it while the earth runs off in the water.  By application of heat to a retort, the quicksilver is then evaporated, leaving the pure yellow metal.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It is never safe in California to judge of a person by his dress.  You are thrown into contact with rough-looking people in a stage coach, and before you have travelled five miles, find they are college-bred,--perhaps professional men at the East.  You speak to a miner in a red flannel shirt, about the geological formation of the mine in which he is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We were looking at a deep excavation, when a person ascended from it dressed like a miner, and, coming forward, called me by name.  His face seemed familiar, but I could not recognize him, and he was obliged to introduce himself.  Six or seven years ago he was a vestryman of my church in Albany, being then a merchant in extensive business.  About five years ago he came out to the mines, where he had suffered all kinds of reverses, and endured the usual hardships, until now he was beginning to reap a reward in the prospect of fortune.  He had extensive claims on these hills, and employed fifteen or twenty workmen in his "diggings," which he was preparing to work by machinery.  His family had joined him a few months before, and were living in a board cabin he pointed out to me, which he had erected on the hills near his claims.  His wife and daughter had been communicants in my church in Albany, and I walked over to see them.  The home in which I had last met them, was a three story brick house.  Such unexpected encounters are common in California, and this was the second I had had in Nevada in twenty-four hours.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Among the vegetable productions of California peculiar to this country, is the soap plant, which the gentleman with me pointed out growing on these hills.  It looks like a lily, and has a large bulbous root.  He pulled up one, crushed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>After spending the greater part of the day in visiting those who were favorable to the object for which I had come, and making the necessary arrangements to establish the Church, at four o'clock we set out in the stage on our return to Grass Valley.  The day had been beautiful; the roads were already drying up; the air was pure and bracing; and there could be no greater contrast than between our ride this afternoon and that through the storm of the day before.  We wound in and out among the old patriarchs of the forest, and everything had an air of freshness, as if we were in a newly discovered land.  I cannot remember that I ever enjoyed a ride more.  In about an hour we reached Grass Valley, and found ourselves again at the hospitable residence of Mr. Winchester.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>As beautiful a day as ever shone!  The diggings which I see from my window are nearly deserted, only a solitary miner here and there using his pick.  A few Indians and Chinese are scattered about.  In the village a few shops only are open, together with some gambling saloons kept by Frenchmen, whose object is to decoy the miners into spending the hard-earned wages of the week.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We had a morning service in a public hall, and a congregation of about fifty, among them some of the most influential families in the village.  Quite a number, too, were young men of the class adapted to form the strength of a congregation.  In the afternoon we removed to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>There is some society to be found in this distant village as refined as any in our eastern states.  On Thursday afternoon I had spent a very pleasant hour at the house of Mr. Melville Atwood.  He is from England, and has come out to direct the scientific arrangements of the English Quartz Company.  His wife is a sister of Prof. Forbes of London, who, in science, has a world-wide celebrity.  We had promised to dine with them on Sunday evening.  In addition to his family, we found a guest staying with him--Sir Henry Huntley.  Sir Henry is a captain in the British navy and was formerly Governor of Prince Edward's Island.  He was sent out from England, in command of a company of Cornish miners, to superintend the quartz works belonging to an association there.  Of course the company went to pieces, as the courtly Sir Henry was not intended by nature for such work.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We did not send to the stage office till last evening, and then found that every place was taken and we must remain another day.  Willie has been out in the diggings trying mining.  He washed out several pans <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Mrs. Kip had been with me, making visits and perfecting our acquaintance with the people of Grass Valley.  We passed, in the village, an exceedingly pretty cottage, inhabited by Lola Montes.  It has a conservatory behind it, and flowers and bird cages about it, giving it an air of taste and refinement.  She is said to have a pension from the King of Bavaria, who, when she was his <HI REND="italics">chere amie</HI>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The rain came on again last evening, and it has literally poured through the night.  This morning was not much better; but as these mountain storms sometimes last for a week, nothing remained for us but to set out for home.  The stage--a long wagon--came at seven o'clock, and, ourselves included, there were twelve inside.  Just as we set off, the rain ceased and we had no more that day.  Through the morning, however, it was like a fitful April day,--alternate clouds and sunshine.  We took a different road through the country, from that by which we came, traversing the side of the mountains and directing our course towards Sacramento.  The mountain streams had been swollen by the rains, and in several through which we passed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:the water came up to the body of the carriage.  Then, too, we were constantly kept on the <HI REND="italics">qui vive</HI>
062.sgm:<P>At noon we reached Auburn, so named by one of the first setters, who came from Auburn in the State of New York.  Situated, however, as it is, among the mountains, it cannot be called <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the plain."<LB></HI>
062.sgm:<P>It is now a stirring mining town, surrounded by extensive diggins; but let the mines give out or better ones be discovered five miles distant, this would soon be "the deserted village."  As we left the town, we passed through a street inhabited entirely by Chinese, who are to be met with in all parts of the mines.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Descending into the plain below, we had magnificent views of the Valley of the Sacramento which stretched far as the eye could reach, seeming to be an unbroken expanse of forest land.  The sun was shining brightly, and every pleasant little nook we passed appeared to be occupied by miners.  Sometimes there was a neat cabin, as if the occupant had made up his mind to a long residence, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>A few miles farther on we reached the level of the plain--the distance from the mountains to Sacramento is about thirty miles,--a rolling country covered with clumps of old oaks scattered about.  Here would be a single tree, there a clump of half a dozen, then a wide grove.  We passed hundreds of sites where I could not help imagining how beautiful some of the old halls in England would look, if they could be transported to these spots.  It extended, too, as far as the eye could reach, often for miles without a habitation or a fence.  The late rains had laid the dust, everything was fresh and green, the atmosphere was just cool enough, and altogether it was a delightful drive.  Now and then we came to a ranch house kept as a hotel, where we changed horses, or to the cabin and little enclosure of a settler.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Of the land which belongs to the United States Government, any actual settler may appropriate to himself a hundred and sixty acres, free of purchase; and as we looked at this wide expanse of magnificent unsettled country, with its fine agricultural advantages, and remembered the millions of toiling farmers in the old world, who are laboring year after year for a mere subsistence and are crushed down by taxes, I asked myself, why will they not come over and "possess the land" which seems to be waiting for their occupancy.  And one day the Valley of the Sacramento will be thus filled.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The great drawback in the greater part of this Valley is the want of water.  Late in the summer the herbage is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>As the twilight deepened, we could see the teamsters, in different parts of the plain, kindling fires by the side of their huge wagons and preparing to camp out for the night; while the little prairie wolves (coyotes), startled by the noise of our vehicle, sprang up and dashed away into the darkness.  It was just at evening that we crossed the river by a bridge, and entered the streets of Sacramento, having driven about seventy miles since breakfast.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVII.<LB>SAN JOSE.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>It was in May after arrival that I made my first visit to San Jose&acute; and the first service of our Church was held there.  This was followed by other visits at intervals, and although five years have now elapsed, and, owing to the want of clergy, we have never had a resident minister there, yet, in pursuance of my plan, I record the visit as the first effort in behalf of our Church in that place, and, therefore, when the Church is established and San Jose&acute; has lost all its old California features, to be a matter of interest.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We left San Francisco, on Monday morning at eight o'clock.  The stage had nine inside, all but ourselves being French.  For the first few miles the road was over hills like those which immediately surround San Francisco, with scarcely a tree to be seen.  Then we came to the wide-spread plains, stretching, far as the eye can reach, towards the edge of the ocean.  For miles there will be no fences or enclosures--no houses, only one vast prairie.  Here and there we see herds of the wild cattle, easily distinguished from the domestic by their large branching horns, or groups of wild horses grazing about.  Then, a herdsman, wrapped in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:his <HI REND="italics">scrape</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Having been up very early and finding the monotony of the road rather tiresome, I had fallen asleep, when, shortly after eleven, I was awakened by the stopping of the vehicle.  I roused up, and opening my eyes, seemed to have dropped into another country.  The stage was standing before a tasteful house and around us were groves of noble trees.  On the other side of the road were cultivated pleasure grounds, while through the foliage was seen a country seat, with its conservatory on one side.  I rubbed my eyes and asked where I was.  I found we had reached San Mateo, one of the favorite summer resorts of the San Franciscans.  With a mild atmosphere, freed from the high winds which prevail nearer the ocean, these secluded valleys furnish a pleasant change from the city.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Beyond San Mateo, the country is diversified with fine rolling surface and groups of old trees extending to the horizon.  Occasionally we passed noble ranches comprising thousands of acres.  Sometimes a single field of grain will contain three hundred acres.  It was a delightful drive through the mild and balmy air, and at three o'clock in the afternoon we reached Santa Clara.  This is a little village, the houses of which are about equally divided between the old Spanish <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm: buildings, as usual one story high, and the new, pertlooking residences of the late American settlers.  At the edge of the town is a three-storied, red brick building, without an attempt at ornament, or a tree or a shrub near it; looking very uncomfortable and very much out of place, as if it had wandered away from some city.  This, I was told, was a school belonging to the Methodists, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>This place is the seat of the old Romish Mission of Santa Clara.  The old church, with its low walls, covers a great extent of ground.  The front has a coat of white plaster gaudily painted with figures in the Spanish style.  The old mission buildings attached to the church have been converted into a college, which contains a large number of pupils.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Alameda</HI>
062.sgm:<P>This place is considerably larger than Santa Clara, and has the same mixture of American and old Californian population.  The valley in which it is situated is about twenty miles broad by a hundred long, hemmed in by mountains.  With a climate of perpetual summer, it is considered one of the garden spots of California, and when the projected railroad connecting it with San Francisco is finished, this valley will be filled with the villas of citizens who will take refuge here at times from the crowded city.  The legislature once met here, but it proved to be too dull a place for their taste and they preferred the bustle of Sacramento.  It is indeed as quiet as can well be conceived, presenting a strange contrast to the usual excitement of California.  We look out from the balcony of the house where we are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:staying, and opposite are Spanish <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday</HI>
062.sgm:.  <LB>We drove out for about a mile, to a ranch on which is an artesian well.  The proprietor was boring for water, when, at about seventy-five feet below the surface the instrument fell out in a stream of water three and a half feet deep, and a rapid current at once gushed forth.  The head of water is seven inches in diameter, and placing in it a pipe five feet high, it rose at once with great force to the top.  There is sufficient volume of water to irrigate a farm of one thousand acres.  On the next ranch, a short distance off, the experiment was tried again with the same success.  These were the first efforts of the kind, but since then water has been obtained, not only for the town, but for any part of the valley, thus supplying the only need which was felt,--water in the dry season.  There is evidently a subterranean stream running under the valley.</P>
062.sgm:<P>On the <HI REND="italics">Alameda</HI>
062.sgm:<P>In the afternoon a gentleman called to take me driving.  We crossed the plain to the mountains about seven miles distant.  For the greater part of the way there was no road, but we were guided by taking for our direction the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We were going to visit a gentleman from New York, who was owner of a wide tract of land at the base of the hills, which he was placing under cultivation.  We found his primitive wooden house on the first knoll at the base of the high mountains rising stage after stage behind it.  From the front we had a magnificent panoramic view of the plains, bounded at the distant horizon by mountains, except at one spot where we saw dimly the blue line of the ocean.  Below us stretched out his wide fields--thousands of acres under cultivation, without a single fence.  It was agriculture on a scale which dwarfed into insignificance most of our Northern and Eastern farms.  His cattle had free range over the mountains, and we saw them several miles distant coming over the hills, driven home by his herdsmen on horseback, to be shut up for the night.  His <HI REND="italics">corral</HI>
062.sgm: (enclosure for cattle) was in a ravine through which a stream of water flowed.  The great advantage of farming here is, that no forage need be hoarded up for winter.  Stock feed out the whole year and take care of themselves.  In the dry season, they find food in the ravines through which the streams flow, or feed on the wild oats on the hills.  The winter, too, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:is so mild that they require no shelter.  At the East, the prominent object on a farm is the barn.  Here, you never see one.  "All out doors" is the barn, and for the cattle the <HI REND="italics">corral</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We reached the village again at evening, often puzzled to determine the direction we should take, as we were so buried in the tall grass as to be able to see nothing about us.  I can readily understand, how on these, to the eye, boundless plains, travelers are often lost, and wander for days before they regain the proper direction.</P>
062.sgm:<P>On our way, we passed a little wooden building, which my companion pointed out to me as a school-house, in which a curious assembly meets two evenings in the week.  It is composed of grown up and even middle aged people,--generally Westerners who had originally no advantages of education--gathered there to learn spelling.  Though the object was highly praiseworthy, their efforts--he said--were sometimes most ludicrous.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>At San Jose&acute; the Romanists have founded the largest female seminary they have in the State.  It is an extensive brick building, with one side left unfinished that a wing may be added.  Its cost, so far, has been about seventy-five thousand dollars.  On visiting it, we were received by one of the sisters, who conducted us through the different departments.  There is one room for the California (Spanish) girls, who bore on their countenances the unmistakable marks of their race, another for the English girls, and a third for the smallest children.  The dormitories and other rooms are all exceedingly neat, and the charges, as shown by their printed circular, apparently very cheap.  I understand, however, from those who have had daughters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>There are fourteen sisters in charge of the establishment, and about one hundred and fifty pupils.  Of the latter, one half are Americans and very many are Protestants.  All are obliged to attend Mass, and I satisfied myself, that, notwithstanding great professions to the contrary, the sisters do exert a constant, although silent, influence to draw pupils to their faith.  Of this we had a convincing proof before our visit was ended.  When we entered the little chapel, I was surprised to see the young lady (a pupil) who was conducting us around, kneel and cross herself most devoutly.  Upon inquiry, I found she was a "convert," made so before she had been there three months, and baptized without the knowledge of her parents.  These women, therefore, to whose care her training had been committed, instructed her to begin her religious life by violating one of her first duties.  But while Protestant parents will continue sending their children to such places, they must expect like results.</P>
062.sgm:<P>From there we walked to the parish church of San Jose&acute;.  It was locked, but a <HI REND="italics">sub-pretre</HI>
062.sgm:, whom we found in the porch of a cottage near by, sent a boy to open it for us.  Like all other churches of the kind, it is of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm:<P>At evening we had our first service.  The Presbyterian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>A party was formed to-day to drive out to the celebrated Almaden Quicksilver Mines.  After going a few miles, we crossed the plain and entered the mountains, where the scenery was beautiful, as we drove around the hills covered with park-like oaks.  The road wound by a running stream, and now and then we passed the ranch of a Californian.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The quicksilver works are very extensive, the mine being the richest in the world.  This year, the company makes one million of dollars worth of quicksilver.  The cinnabar is so rich that it yields seventy per cent.  The works are of brick, and we were shown the large reservoirs filled with quicksilver.  The atmosphere is most stifling, and must be destructive to health, as we were told that breathing it sometimes salivated the workmen.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The ascent to the mines is by a winding path leading up the mountain for more than a mile, and then there is a descent of some three hundred steps.  I did not attempt this entrance into the bowels of the earth, but contented myself with the report of those who did go.  Most persons make such expeditions merely to boast of them.  Chateaubriand, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>From the side of the hill a spring wells out.  The water has a strong medicinal quality, resembling soda water, and effervesces in the same way, when mixed with syrup.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We lunched under the trees, picnic fashion.  By the side of us ran a stream, and just within sight were some canvas and reed houses which the Californians erect for the hot weather.  Their inmates, however, make but little use of them, except for sleeping, their days being spent in the open air.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The drive back was delightful, the air as balmy as that of Italy.  In San Jose&acute; everything was so quiet that it seemed as though the whole town must be asleep.  Likely most people were taking a siesta as enough of the old Spanish population remains, to counteract in a degree the restlessness of the Americans among them.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We left in the stage at seven in the morning, to return to San Francisco by a different route on the other side of the bay.  For almost the whole distance, the road led over wide-spread plains, sometimes for miles without a fence or a house.  The country has a "sealike sweep," while the hills are set round it like a mighty frame.  Often the road could hardly be marked, while the wild mustard, with its yellow flowers, was higher than the horses' backs.  Occasionally, nestling in a sunny nook, we would pass some <HI REND="italics">milpas</HI>
062.sgm:, --Indian huts of weeds or brush,--or an old California house with the occupants lounging out of doors--or the more comfortable looking wooden house of some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:American settler, who had "located" on the plain and enclosed his garden about him.  Several times we drove over the dry pebbly beds of the <HI REND="italics">arroyos</HI>
062.sgm:<P>After a ride of about twelve miles, we turned aside to what was once the Mission of San Jose&acute;.  The Mission house, a spacious <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm: building, with long corridors, is now occupied by Mr. Beard.  The church, like all the old Spanish churches, covers a great deal of ground, and bears on its front traces of once having had fresco paintings.  It is still held by the priests.  The little settlement around it consists of a tavern and a few <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm: houses, occupied principally by Spaniards and Californians.  Everything around them is primitive--even the low carts standing at their doors, with two wheels about two feet high, each cut in the most clumsy style out of a solid block of wood.  The long ranges of native huts, once occupied by the Indian converts, are still visible, but broken down and roofless, while each rainy season wears away the <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Mr. Beard, the present owner of the Mission building, is one of the greatest agriculturists in California.  He claims the whole plain for some leagues around, and from the Mission you see his fields stretch over the lower ground for miles.  They are well fenced in and show the energy of American cultivation.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Here we took in two new passengers--Spanish women, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:with their <HI REND="italics">rebozos</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We stopped once at a little hamlet called Union City, to change horses, and again at a tavern built upon Castro's Ranch, to dine.  At three o'clock we reached the Bay--passed through the growing towns of Alameda, Clinton and Oakland, within a mile of each other, situated among groves of oak trees, and soon to be covered by the villas of the San Franciscans--and taking the ferry, in three quarters of an hour, arrived at home.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVIII</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>MONTEREY.<LB>A SEVERE illness in the summer, probably the result of my passage over the isthmus and change of climate some months before, had quite prostrated me; but having made an appointment at Monterey for the 30th of July, I determined to endeavor to fulfill it.  I hoped that the change of air and a short sea voyage would, before Sunday came, fit me for my duties.</P>
062.sgm:<P>On the previous Thursday afternoon at four o'clock I left San Francisco, with Mrs. Kip, in the steamer <HI REND="italics">Sea Bird</HI>
062.sgm:<P>When I left my stateroom at seven the next morning, I found from the revolution of the wheels that the steamer was going very slowly.  The Captain supposed us to be opposite the Bay of Monterey; yet being unable to see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Monterey is a straggling Spanish town, built without any regard to order, at the head of the bay.  Back of it, on three sides, the ground rises into hills, the slopes of which are richly wooded with old oak trees.  Under the Mexican rule it was the capital of California and the residence of the principal families, who were attracted hither, partly by its delicious climate and partly by its being the headquarters of the gayeties of the province.  Under the American government it retained, for a short time, its importance.  Here in 1850 was held the first convention, which adopted the State Constitution and took measures for obtaining admission into the Union.  Delegates thronged to it from all parts of California. It was held under the authority of Gen. Riley, the Military Governor, and for a time Gen. Sutter, the pioneer of California, presided over its deliberations.  The staring wooden taverns which were run up at this period are still standing, some of them now closed and unoccupied.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Monterey is now as quiet a place as Zimmerman himself could have desired in which to realize his dreams of solitude.  Business has departed, except the little trade necessary for the daily wants of its population.  You see no one in the streets, but a few Spaniards and Indians, who seem to have, as is really the case, nothing to do.  There are scarcely any vehicles; and all is quiet until some Californian dashes along at the usual head-long speed.  The houses, scattered without much regard to order, are mostly of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm:<P>No sooner had we dropped anchor than a shore boat came off for passengers and landed us on the rocks at the edge of the basin.  I had come to Monterey, principally at the request of Mrs. Boston's family, one of the American <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>Bayard Taylor, in his "Letters from California," dwells much upon the peculiar sound of the surf, as it rolls and breaks upon this shore.  I know not whether it was mere imagination, but it has often seemed to me, as I listened to these sounds, that they had a quality all their own.  Even when the surface was unbroken, there was a constant swell which lined the borders of the bay, far as the eye could reach, with a brief display of silver foam; and every moment it broke upon the shore with solemn regularity, as if the ceaseless pulsations of the mighty Pacific.  This seemed to me more impressive, thus rolling up the bay with a long, dirge-like moan, than the wilder dashings of the waves upon Point Lobos; and doubly so at night, when I have lain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>It seemed, too, as if the town was as quiet as the bay.  No sound came up from it.  The bustle of Yankee energy seemed not yet to have broken in upon its primitive repose.  Except some children playing about, the cattle lazily feeding, or an occasional foot-passenger,--generally a Spanish woman with the <HI REND="italics">rebozo</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The most exciting scene that passed before the window during my stay was the capture of one of the wild California cattle by a Spaniard on horseback who had attempted to drive it forward without success.  The animal seemed obstinately bent on going in a direction contrary to his wishes, when, with the utmost rapidity, he threw his long lariat with the slip knot at the end.  By some sleight of hand which I could not understand, it struck the fore-leg, and encircled it at once, the horse planted himself firmly on the ground to enable him to sustain the shock; and in an instant the animal was lying helpless on its back.  This was repeated several times, and always with the same unerring precision.  It is their usual way of capturing cattle on the wide plains or hill-sides.  The animals are suffered to run wild until wanted; when the <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
062.sgm: rides up to the herd, selects the one he wishes, and while the terrified animal is thundering along at full speed, by a whirl of the hand which is hardly perceptible, the lariat strikes his foot, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The only walk on which I ventured during these two days, (and this sent me exhausted to bed, before dark,) was to the Fort which is not far from Mrs. Boston's house.  It is on high ground overlooking the bay.  The breast-work which has been thrown up, surmounted by several large cannon, surrounds the space devoted to barracks, arsenal and parade ground.  There was once a large garrison stationed here; but although the United States' flag still floats gaily over it, its glory has departed, and a single officer, (in charge of the military stores remaining in the depot,) and a sergeant, are the only occupants of the barracks.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The climate is perfectly delicious.  I was delighted with its balminess the day I landed, and every day of my stay increased my appreciation of it.  The temperature seems to be equable, differing but a few degrees throughout the whole year.  During this, which is the dry season, no rain ever falls; but early in the morning and in the evening, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The service of our Church had never been held in Monterey. Some years ago, on the first occupancy of the town by the Americans, the Rev. Calvin Colton, Chaplain in the U. S. Navy, a Congregational minister, was stationed here.  He was appointed Alcalde, and while here erected a stone building for a Town Hall, which is now called "Colton Hall," and is one of the most substantial public buildings in California.  He also published "Three Years in California," a diary of life in Monterey which gives a good picture of the society and life in this country.  Subsequently, another Presbyterian minister, Mr. Willy, resided here for a short time as Chaplain to the garrison, but for some years there have been no Protestant services of any kind.  The old Romish Church is the only place of public worship.  On Saturday we heard the bells ringing violently, and were told it was to notify the inhabitants that the next day was Sunday.  Perhaps this is necessary in the perfect tranquillity of Monterey, where they "take no note of time," where nothing disturbs the quiet of the day, but the moaning of the wind through the pine trees and the breaking of the waves upon the beach.</P>
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062.sgm:<P>On Sunday morning the sound of these bells came floating over to us in the perfect stillness.  The Church is on the opposite side of the town, standing where the ground begins to rise into the hills, and from my window I can see group after group winding their way up to its doors.  For our service we had the Court Room in Colton Hall, the room in which the convention which adopted the first Constitution of this State, held its meetings.  The Congregation numbered about sixty, and at the Holy Communion four came forward, some of whom had not for a long time enjoyed this privilege.  "Your sermon," said a gentleman to me, after service, "is the first I have heard for four years."  In the afternoon the attendance was much larger, as many of the Spanish ladies came in to witness the services, though unacquainted with the language.  After the second lesson, I baptized five children; and having given, in place of the sermon, an extemporaneous address explanatory of Confirmation, I conferred that rite on one lady who that morning received the Communion for the first time.  In the early part of the week I visited many of the Americans, particularly those who had brought their children for baptism.  They all expressed themselves anxious to have the services of the Church; but they are too few in number to take any steps towards this, nor is there any reason to suppose that Monterey will increase or strengthen its American population.  In fact, since my visit it has diminished; and the removal of Mrs. Boston's family has taken away the only one of any influence.  Twelve miles distant, on Salinas Plains, I am told an agricultural population is settling, but of course it is scattered at the ranches.</P>
062.sgm:<P>As the steamer was not to return from San Diego till <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>As soon as we left the town, we found ourselves in the old oak woods.  Then, there would be a space destitute of trees--then we would drive through the forest by a road on which the grass was growing, while the branches on each side swept against us as we passed.  There was every variety of scenery, as we went over hills bare of trees, and through valleys into whose tangled foliage the sun could not penetrate.  These woods are filled with game; often grizzlies are met there, but we saw nothing except innumerable squirrels, and a solitary prairie wolf (coyote) which crossed our path.  We forded the Carmel River, at this season a shallow stream, but in the rainy season filled to the banks with an impassable flood.  During the drive of seven miles, we passed but one house, the owner of which had cleared extensively around him for a farm.  At last we approached the seaside, and after driving through woods where there seemed to be no road, we emerged a few hundred yards from the beach, in an open space dotted with scattered trees.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The scenery around is of the wildest character.  It seems as if some mighty convulsion had rent the rocks asunder, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The rocks here are covered with shells, some very beautiful, and also with the greatest variety of sea-weeds that I have ever seen.  Among them is the mucilaginous plant which is so much used by the Chinese for soup.  It is here collected in great quantities, and has become an important object of export.</P>
062.sgm:<P>There is, however, another natural production at this place which excites much more attention.  Long before we reached the margin of the sea we heard an indistinct roar and bellowing which seemed something different from the booming sound of the waves.  It proceeded from the sea lions with which this is a favorite resort.  A few hundred yards from the shore is a ledge of rocks, forming an island, on which they crawl up to bask in the sun.  There, hundreds of them, of every size, can be seen at once, and their roaring is heard above the sound of the waves.  They are huge, unwieldy masses, sometimes eighteen feet in length, appearing like great lizards as they crawl up on the rocks or slide back again into the water.  Sometimes, a monster who seemed the patriarch, would raise himself up and bellow, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>We returned for about four miles by the same road over the Carmel River, and then turned aside to visit the old Mission of Carmel.  To find it, however, seemed no easy work; as the road had been so long disused that it was overgrown with grass, and difficult to distinguish from other paths in the woods.  We tried several, where the branches almost met from the sides and swept over us as we passed, but they ended in the dense forest and we were obliged with difficulty to turn and regain the main road.  We at last found the right one, and after driving for two miles emerged into the cleared fields which surround the old Mission Church.  The situation is beautiful (as are always the sites of the old missions), surrounded by the hills, and with a distant view of the ocean.  The church still stands unaltered in its front, having on one side of it the range of offices unchanged.  On the other side, the huts which once formed the habitations of the Indian converts have entirely disappeared, as have the other outbuildings, and corrals in which the old fathers once herded their thousands of cattle.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We drove into the quadrangle, about four hundred feet square, formed by the deserted offices of the Mission.  They are built of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
062.sgm: and are now rapidly falling to decay.  A gentleman who visited the church a few weeks before, found it entirely open, the doors swinging loosely on their hinges, and all the old relics of former worship left as they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>At this time it was open, as the Padre from Monterey was here, removing some of the ornaments and furniture to his church.  The church itself is lofty, with a Gothic arch, and some parts of the ornamental stone work are carved with considerable skill.  It is nearly two hundred feet in length, so that there is something stately in its appearance as you stand at the lower end and look up.  The wall of the chancel has been elaborately gilded and painted, but the colors are now fast fading away, from exposure to the air and weather.  The whole building is of stone, except the chancel end, which is unfortunately of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
062.sgm:.  The roof over the end where the altar once stood has fallen in, and a few more rainy seasons will finish the dilapidation of the building.  At the left hand is a small chapel for the Baptistery, where the large font, carved from a species of yellow stone, with a heavy wooden cover, stood as it did the day the last child received from it the waters of baptism.  Next to it is a pretty little chapel which was used for the daily Mass and Vespers.  The altar is still there, with a picture of angels over it, some of the heads of which are very well executed.  On the altar was the printed Gospel with prayers, framed and glazed.  It seemed as though the officiating priest had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:left it there but yesterday.  On the walls were painted the <HI REND="italics">Te Deum, Gloria in Excelsis</HI>
062.sgm:<P>In the sacristy--a large room on the other side of the church--we saw the old paintings and images.  I turned over the former, but found most of them to be daubs, portraits of saints and martyrs.  Among them was one of a Padre landing on the coast, with a violin in his hand.  In the background are seen the Indians, whom tradition asserts he attracted by the music of his instrument before beginning his sermon.  The images are about four feet high, of wood, well carved, some with gilded mitres on their heads, and one, (whose name I could not learn), representing an African, perfectly black, with woolly head.</P>
062.sgm:<P>A wax figure as large as life, representing the dead Christ, had been left lying in the nave of the church.  It was uninjured, except that some of the panes of the glass case which covered it were broken.  The Padre had now brought out some Indians to carry it to Monterey to ornament his own church.  They were placing poles under it, to carry it as on a bier.  On our way home we passed it, and as we approached Monterey we met groups of sen&tilde;oras, who had gone out to receive it.  A few hours afterwards, the bells of the Church rang out a loud peal, and we heard there had been quite a service for its reception.</P>
062.sgm:<P>This was the Padre's first visit to the place, and he there fore knew little about it.  He was a Mexican, speaking only Spanish.  In front of the altar many of the priests had been buried, and he removed the slab from a tomb in the pave <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>In the tower still hang the three old Spanish bells, one of which is yet perfect, but the other two have been broken and are now useless.  Thirty years ago, their sound, as it swept over these hills, called hundreds of Indians to daily prayers.</P>
062.sgm:<P>After leaving the church, we walked over to an extensive pear orchard, planted by the Padres, the fruit of which some Californians were employed in gathering.  A small house had been built in the orchard, where lived an American, who, having married a Mexican wife, had settled down here, usurping the grounds of the Mission.  As we were looking over the gate, his wife came out and welcomed us in with the grace which seems peculiar to these Spanish women.  She was exceedingly handsome, and from her appearance I supposed her to be a young girl.  She had, however, been for some years a wife, and was the mother of three children.  She conducted us into her house, a single room, with a little partition to conceal the bed, and an earthen floor; but where she presided with a dignity not often seen in aristocratic saloons.  It is a trait, however, we have often remarked in the native women.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Our road home led for some way through the deserted clearings of the old fathers, by their ruined corrals, and then through the thick chaparral where the birds alone broke the silence of these solitudes, until we emerged in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>Beneath, Monterey was spread out, covering a gentle slope of land for three quarters of a mile.  Two miles below was seen Point Pinos at the southern extremity of the harbor, from which the bay curved round to An&tilde;o Nuevo, its northern side, twenty miles distant.  Behind, the country rose in ridges to the Toro Mountains, while through the clear air without a cloud, could be seen far off on the northern horizon, the mountains of Santa Cruz and the Sierra de Gavilan, beyond the Salinas plains where the virgin soil is already broken by the enterprise of American immigrants.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The next morning we took another drive, to Point Pinos below the town.  The road is through the pine forest, often scarcely to be traced in the open glades, and then through dense chaparral which still furnishes a lurking place for the grizzly bear.  The point projects out into the ocean, with irregular masses of sand-stone, which, like those at Point Lobos, seem to be thrown into every fantastic form.  Among these the waves dash up, while the foam and swell roll over them, and break upon the shore with a shock which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>A short distance from the shore is a substantial stone lighthouse, which only waits for the lantern to be forwarded from San Francisco, to commence its duties.  It is much needed at this place, for although the bay is more than twenty miles wide at the entrance, owing to the fogs at night, vessels frequently go ashore.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Every morning at nine, the sound of the bells is borne to us, across the little plain, from the church which is situated on the rise of the hills beyond, and one morning we walked over to it.  It is of stone and a good-sized building, very much resembling the church at the Carmel Mission, but not kept in good repair.  For some reason,--perhaps to save trouble--the windows on one side have been entirely closed with <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The interior of the church is like that of most chapels I have seen in this country.  There was nothing remarkable except a curious picture of Heaven and Hell, one of those poor paintings so often seen in the Romish churches which attempt to bring down the future state to the most sensual minds.  Heaven is represented by a pyramid on which are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>We crossed a little lagoon that flows up from the harbor and walked up for a mile to a beautiful headland which projects out on the opposite side of the bay.  I had often looked at it from my window, and been attracted by its picturesque appearance, covered, as it was, with old oaks.  We found it as peaceful and quiet as it seemed in the distance; and that most appropriately it had been selected as the Romish burying ground.  The low wall which surrounded it had been concealed from us by the trees which threw their shade over every part of it.  There were no monuments, generally only wooden head-boards and graves to mark the place where the former inhabitants of the little town were quietly sleeping.  Outside the wall, under the shadow of a noble tree whose branches entirely cover it, is an enclosure surrounding the marble altar-shaped tomb of the wife of Lieut. Sully, U. S. A.  She was a member of one of the old California families residing at Monterey and died at the early age of seventeen.  A more peaceful spot could not be found.  Nothing breaks the stillness but the notes of the birds, or the sound of the "old unchanging ocean."</P>
062.sgm:<P>A delightful degree of good feeling is evinced towards Americans by the highest class of California families residing in Monterey.  Some of them are the old landed families who occupied an influential position under the Spanish and Mexican governments.  Others are refugees from Lower California.  One of them was Governor of Lower California, but espoused the American cause during the war <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:with Mexico, under the supposition that on the return of peace the United States would insist on the cession of that country also.  As this was not done, he was obliged to exile himself and take refuge under our flag.  Californians have been so abused and cheated by the Americans, that we wonder they can be polite to any.  Yet they are most remarkably courteous towards those entitled to their respect.  There is a degree of cordiality and warm-heartedness in their manner which I have never found exceeded.  The ladies still retain the old Spanish costume, with the <HI REND="italics">rebozo</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We do not wonder at this, for most of the male portion of the Californians do not seem to have the good qualities possessed by the women.  They retain much of the old Spanish character, with the evils of the Mexican disposition engrafted on it.  They are generally idle and without energy, caring for nothing but horses and doing nothing which cannot be done on horseback.  Bull fights, bear fights, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:particularly gambling form their amusements.  For the last their passion is intense and they will pass entire days and nights at <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The size of the California families would astonish our countrymen at the East.  I became acquainted with some members of one family in which there were twenty-two children by [th]e [sa]me father and mother.  In another there were eighteen, while the ordinary number would be more than twelve.</P>
062.sgm:<P>On the last morning of our stay in Monterey, we drove into the country, about five miles, to the ranch of Don Jose&acute;.  He and his wife accompanied us on horseback.  The Donn&tilde;a rode well, as most of the California women do, many of them being even skillful in throwing the lariat.  Their style of riding appears awkward to an American, as they sit on the right side of the horse, though this is really the more natural way.  The left hand is thus used for holding the reins, while the right arm is free.  Our road lay directly through one of the ravines which run up among the hills back of the town, through the unbroken forest, except in one place where the old trees were lying prostrate on the hillside, cut down by some enterprising American who intends to set out a vineyard on that spot.  The farther we advanced into the country removed from the influence of the sea breeze, the warmer it became; but there is a freshness about this soft vaporous atmosphere which keeps it from being oppressive.</P>
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062.sgm:<P>Don Jose&acute;'s ranch stretches over several miles.  The house is in a hollow among the hills, with some living springs behind it, which are sufficient, in the dry season, to irrigate the gardens.  The servants were Indians, among whom we saw a woman ninety-six of age, born before the first coming of the whites or even of the earliest Franciscan Missionaries.  Her hair was long and gray, and her face deeply wrinkled, but she seemed to have as much elasticity and strength as most persons at sixty.  She can carry--Don Jose&acute; told me--a burden of a hundred pounds.  These Indians are slaves.  Frequently, when in the country, finding young Indians about the house, I have asked the proprietor where he got them, and received for answer,--"I gave five dollars apiece for them"--or, "My friend Mr. P. purchased them of some of the tribe and presented them to me."</P>
062.sgm:<P>On our return we stopped at Don Jose&acute;'s house in town to lunch, where we were most hospitably entertained.  His daughter played some pieces on the piano for us, with great taste and skill.  As American habits creep in, this instrument is, in many California houses, taking the place of the guitar, whose music they inherited from their Spanish ancestors.</P>
062.sgm:<P>While we were at dinner on Thursday, we heard a gun--the notice that the <HI REND="italics">Sea Bird</HI>
062.sgm: had again arrived.  During the afternoon she took on board her freight, and at about six o'clock, after saying good-bye to our kind friends, we were rowed over to her.  Another hour and we were out of the harbor and in the swell of the ocean, which soon sent most of the passengers to their staterooms.  After rather a rough night, we found ourselves, at breakfast time, once more entering the Golden Gate, and by nine o'clock were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIX.<LB>THE SPECIAL CONVENTION</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>THERE is a grave defect in our present canon on Missionary Bishops.  When six presbyters have been one year in a Missionary Jurisdiction as parish priests, they may organize a Diocese and elect their own Bishop.  They may choose the Missionary Bishop who has been over them or not, as they please.  If, through prejudice or intrigue, his own clergy decline to retain him as their permanent Bishop, they place him before the Church as unfit for the office in which he has been tried.  Professionally, therefore, he is ruined.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Almost invariably, too, a frontier Diocese is one to which unruly and unworthy clergymen have resorted, as most removed from the reach of Episcopal authority.  Over these he must exercise discipline; yet as soon as he attempts it, he arrays them against him and they at once look forward to the approaching election as the opportunity for retaliation.  As six clergy are sufficient to elect, it places the matter in the hands of a very small clique.  Four men combining against their Missionary Bishop can drive him from the Diocese.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Our venerable pioneer, Bishop Kemper, the first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>From his letter, dated "Lake Superior, Aug. 10th, 1855," I make some extracts: "They collected many hundreds to induce men to come to my Mission to accomplish their object.  I can however rejoice, even in advancing old age, that the Lord reigneth and that no weapon formed against this Church or the purity thereof shall prosper. . .  My all but determination never to retire from the Missionary field was really altered by these intrigues.  The efforts were begun in Wisconsin, and the candidate even named for its Episcopate.  Then, at the solicitation of the clergy, I consented to accept."</P>
062.sgm:<P>Four or five years have now passed, and when I look back upon these schemes, (of which I heard at this time from other sources), so disgraceful and unchristian, I realize how time has rectified all these evils.  Even the "candidate for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>To remedy this, the canon should be amended to provide that when a Missionary Jurisdiction attains sufficient strength to organize as a Diocese, the Missionary Bishop may continue in charge as Diocesan if he so elect, as now the Assistant Bishop succeeds the Bishop of a Diocese.  This would place a Missionary Bishop in an independent position, and by freeing him from the influence of intriguing clergy and future elections, would enable him to enforce the proper authority of his office.  Such an amendment was passed by the House of Bishops in the General Convention of 1853, but was thrown out by the Lower House in their jealousy of the authority of the Bishops.</P>
062.sgm:<P>My own experience was very much the same as Bishop Kemper's.  Before I had been two years in the Diocese, I found myself surrounded by a network of plots.  Any little disaffection arising in consequence of my official acts, which if left to itself would soon have died away, was seized on and fostered to give it strength.  In two instances where clergy had difficulties with their vestries, and where justice compelled me to decide unfavorably to them, their influence was at once enlisted against me.</P>
062.sgm:<P>When Convention met in 1856, these schemes, although they exerted no influence, had gone so far that as soon as the session was over, I felt it necessary to crush them out.  One of the clergy engaged in them was presented for trial for falsehood and slander, and was suspended from the ministry.  The testimony at the trial, placed in my hands full proof of the conspiracy and forever ended it.  Some months <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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062.sgm:<P>The clergy took precisely the same course which had been adopted by their brethren in Wisconsin.  They determined to elect me Diocesan Bishop at once, and thus remove all occasion of scheming.  As I expected to return to the East in April, and could not therefore be at the annual Diocesan Convention which met in May following, it was resolved that I should be asked to call a Special Convention to meet before my departure.  I accordingly received the following request:--</P>
062.sgm:<P>TO the RIGHT REV. WM. INGRAHAM KIP, D.D.,<LB>Missionary Bishop of California:<LB>RIGHT REVEREND AND DEAR SIR:--The undersigned, Presbyters and Lay Members of the Church in California, respectfully request of you to call a Special Convention of the Diocese of California, at as early a date as may be convenient for you to preside in the same.</P>
062.sgm:<P>San Francisco, Nov. 5th, 1856.</P>
062.sgm:<P>CLERGY.<LB>Rev. James W. Capen,<HSEP>Rev. Frederick W Hatch, D.D.<LB>Rev. Edmund D. Cooper,<HSEP>Rev. William H. Hill,<LB>Rev. Orange Clark, D.D.,<HSEP>Rev. David F. Macdonald,<LB>Rev. Elijah W. Hager,<HSEP>Rev. J. Avery Shepherd,<LB>Rev. John L. Ver Mehr, LL. D.</P>
062.sgm:<P>PARISHES.<LB><HI REND="italics">Christ Church, Auburn</HI>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Emmanuel Church, Coloma</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Emmanuel Church, Grass Valley</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Grace Church, Sacramento</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Grace Church, San Francisco</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Church of the Sacraments, Sacramento</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">St. John's Church, Oakland</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">St. John's Church, Stockton</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">St. John's Church, Marysville</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">St. Paul's Church, Benicia</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Trinity Church, Nevada</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Trinity Church, Folsom</HI>
062.sgm:<P>From a feeling of delicacy, I hesitated some time before I complied with this petition, well knowing that their object <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>It accordingly met in Grace Church, Sacramento.  The sermon at the opening of the Convention was preached by the Rev. Dr. Hatch, the oldest clergyman in the Diocese.  After the preliminary exercises, I made the following address:--</P>
062.sgm:<P>"MY BRETHREN OF THE CLERGY AND LAITY:<LB>"For the first time since the organization of the Church in this Diocese, you have been called to assemble as a Special Convention.  So widely are our parishes separated that I realize what great personal sacrifice both clergy and laity make to gather at any one place in this diocese, especially at this season when facilities for travel are diminished.  I would not, therefore, without some urgent reason, issue any summons which should call you together.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"In the present case, however, I am relieved of all responsibility.  In the end of November, I received a request `to call a Special Convention of the Diocese of California at as early a date as might be convenient for me to preside in the same.'  A copy of this paper will be handed to the Secretary to be published in the Convention report.  This request was signed by every clergyman now in the Diocese having a seat in Convention,<ANCHOR ID="n19-9">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm: and by members of the vestry of every Parish (with one exception), in union with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:the Convention.  Members of the vestries of two other Parishes, which had been organized since the last Annual Convention, and which have just asked for admission into the Diocese, had also added their names.<ANCHOR ID="n19-10">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-9">Of the only clergymen in any way connected with the Diocese whose names were not signed, one was absent in the Atlantic States, and the other suspended.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-10">Christ Church, Auburn, and Trinity Church, Folsom.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<P>"There was, in addition, my brethren, another consideration of a personal nature to myself, which caused this request to harmonize with my own views and feelings.  It will not be in my power to be with you at the Annual Convention of the Diocese in May next.  An absence of now more than three years from my former residence at the East, renders it necessary that I should be there in the end of May, to attend to some matters of private business.  I shall be obliged, therefore, to return to the Atlantic States (Providence permitting), by the steamer of April 20th.  I am happy, therefore, to avail myself of this opportunity to meet you once more united as a council of the Church.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Notices were issued on the 5th of December for the Special Convention, and this day was chosen, thus affording two months for the preparation and careful consideration of any business which it may be judged expedient to bring before you.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"And now, brethren, I commend you, in all your deliberations, to Him `who by His Holy Spirit did preside in the councils of the blessed Apostles, and has promised, through His Son Jesus Christ, to be with His Church to the end of the world.'"</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Calling the Rev. Dr. Clark to the chair, I then left the Convention.  After appointing a committee to bring in a report on the power of the Diocese to elect and the expediency of doing so, the Convention adjourned till evening.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In the evening, the committee reported in the affirmative on both points submitted to them, and it was determined at once to proceed to the election.  The choice was unanimous, both with the clergy and laity, nine clergymen being present and nine parishes represented.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I was at that time the guest of John B. Harmon, Esq., and at about nine o'clock in the evening, he drove up to his house to say, that the election was over and the members of the Convention desired that I should return to their meeting.  As I entered the church they all rose, and when I reached the chancel the election was announced to me by the Rev. Dr. Clark.  I then made them an address of which this was the substance:</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Called, my brethren, by your request, to meet you once more in this Convention, I am happy to avail myself of the opportunity to thank you for the mark of confidence you have given by the unanimous election which your President has just announced to me.  It is not the mere absence of any dissenting voice which causes me to regard it with so much satisfaction.  It is the hearty feeling which has characterized all your proceedings, and which, since the first calling of this Convention, has been displayed in the expressions volunteered to me, not by the clergy only, but by the laity also, in every part of the Diocese.  You have now officially placed on record a declaration of these feelings, and I regard the manner in which it has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>"This endorsement of the course I have pursued is the more valuable from the peculiar circumstances in which we have been placed.  I have no hesitation in saying, that the difficulties which surround us in laying the foundation of the Church in this portion of the Pacific coast, are without a parallel in any other region of our country.  We have a population, earnest and intellectual, gathered from every quarter of the world in the last few years, as yet strangers to each other, and engaged in the hot and eager struggle after gain.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"This is a land of intellect, yet of intellect devoted to this world's purposes.  It is a land of gold, yet but little of the gold thereof is consecrated to the service of Him whose are the treasures for which men dig and delve.  Few, too, will interest themselves in the great interests of the country, for the majority have little intention of founding here their permanent home.  Yet to this population, so excitable and fluctuating, we are to bring the gospel, and ours is the task to endeavor to mould them into a united and Christian people.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"But if these things render the work difficult to you who minister in holy things, the difficulties are doubly increased which gather around him who is to act as your Bishop.  He is to be the arbiter in every dispute, and the reference for every complaint; and if he cannot remove every evil, remedy every disappointment, and obviate difficulties which are often the result of the folly or the inefficiency of the sufferers, he is denounced as not worthily discharging his high duties.  Unlike an old community, there is here no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>"The spirit of insubordination, too, which reigns around us is liable even to infect the Church.  There is a constant need of discipline, and yet the very authority to enforce that discipline must be vindicated against the unruly and the evil.  In such a state of things how difficult becomes the duty (inculcated upon him in the consecration service,) to `be so merciful, that he be not too remiss,' to `so minister discipline, that he forget not mercy!'</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Under these circumstances, my brethren, more than three years have passed.  They have been the most important years of this Diocese, when the foundation of the Church has been laid, and those principles have been settled, (sometimes not without contest,) which are to guide us in our future course.  And now, that your unanimous vote has stamped the approval of the Diocese upon my administration in the past, I feel that it is a pledge for your support, should we be fellow laborers in coming days.  And what I have been, you will always find me.  The warfare in which we are engaged is one of principle, and from that I cannot swerve.  Should opposition arise, I can only say to the gainsayer--`With me it is a very small thing that I should be judged of you, or of man's judgment; he that judgeth me is the Lord.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"With regard to my acceptance, it is impossible for me at present to give an answer.  The decision of this question depends upon considerations which cannot be settled here.  On my return to the East I shall be able to determine; and should it be the will of Providence that we are again to be fellow laborers in this land, I trust when the summer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>During the summer, the election was confirmed by the Bishops and Standing Committees of the different Dioceses, and then the Church matters of California settled down into a peace which to the present time has remained unbroken.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XX.<LB>BENICIA.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>BENICIA is about thirty miles from San Francisco.  The Stockton and Sacramento steamers, leaving this city every afternoon at four o'clock, stop there at six o'clock; so that it is of easy access from here.  At the first settlement of the country great efforts were made to constitute it the emporium of the Pacific, but San Francisco took the lead, owing to its superior situation, and Benicia settled down into an inconsiderable place.  For a little while the Legislature met there, but the members found it too quiet and the assembled wisdom of the State was transferred to Sacramento.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Benicia is now a scattered town, with "magnificent distances" between the houses.  About a mile distant, connected with the town proper by straggling dwellings, is another settlement which has gathered around the works of the Pacific Steamship Company.  A mile beyond this, and behind the hills, is the United States' Reservation, occupied as a military post.  If the townspeople, the steamer employe&acute;es, and the army people could be gathered into one place, they would together make quite a town.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>On account of its easy accessibility, Benicia has been chosen as a site for several schools; as not only do steamers stop there, but stages run from that point to the valleys above.  There is a large seminary for girls and another for boys, while the Romanists have established the convent of St. Catherine, the inmates of which devote themselves to the education of their boarders.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Shortly after my arrival in California, this was made the Army Headquarters, and General Wool and staff were removed thither from San Francisco, very much to their dissatisfaction.  By this order, both Churches in this city lost some of their most efficient supporters, among whom were Dr. Tripler, warden of Grace Church; and Major Edward D. Townsend, Assistant Adjutant General, who belonged to Trinity.  These gentlemen, upon settling at Benicia, soon made a move to have the services of the Church; and I accordingly licensed Major Townsend to act as lay reader.</P>
062.sgm:<P>My first visit to this place--and, I believe, the first occasion on which service was performed by a clergyman of our Church--was in the first year of my residence in the Diocese, October 21st, 1854.  I reached there at dusk; and being met on the wharf by Dr. Tripler and Major Townsend, I was driven out to their quarters, as I was to be their guest.  During the time they were stationed there--for the next two years--this was always my home, and there are few scenes in this land to which I look back with more pleasure, than to my visits to their quarters.  In long talks, protracted far into the night, some of my most agreeable hours were spent.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>The next day, Sunday, we had service in the Court House.  A good congregation was present and after service and sermon, I administered the Holy Communion to eight persons.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Then a few months passed, during which I was unable to repeat my visit.  Major Townsend, however, was laboring with all the earnestness of a most devoted parish priest, seeking out children for Baptism and so preparing candidates for Confirmation that I found my seeing them previous to the rite was only a form.  A large room, formerly used as a Masonic Lodge, was hired, and converted into a pretty chapel, with vestry room adjoining.  The chancel was properly fitted with altar and other necessaries and the walls were covered with oaked paper.  In my Convention Address, the following May, I make this mention of Major Townsend's efforts: "Since my former visitation to this place, a suitable room has been provided, and furnished in a church-like manner.  It will be remembered that no services of the Church have been held here, except those of the two Sundays I was able to spend in the place.  Everything else,--the Sunday services, the seeking children for Baptism and preparation of candidates for Confirmation--has been done by the lay reader.  I cannot refrain, my brethren of the laity, from calling your attention to this little parish, thus organized and kept in existence by the exertions of one of your own number, as an evidence of how much can be effected by the laity when the lack of clergy prevents their having the services of an ordained minister."</P>
062.sgm:<P>On the 22nd of February, 1855, I made another visitation.  In the previous week the parish had been organized by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>In July I again visited them, and held service one Tuesday evening, remaining for several days to visit the families.  On the following Friday, I went over to Vallejo with the Major, and in the evening held the first service of our Church in that place.  It is about seven miles from Benicia and separated by a narrow river from the Navy Yard at Mare Island.  The population of the place was then about one thousand, many of whom are workmen employed in the Navy Yard.  A Methodist chapel had been erected there, which was offered for our use, and notwithstanding the notice of but a few hours before, there was a good attendance, consisting of the officers and their families from Mare Island and the people at Vallejo.  I returned the same evening to Benicia and the next day to San Francisco.</P>
062.sgm:<P>During the following January, 1856, we lost the aid of Major Townsend, as he was ordered to Washington.  A more devoted and valuable layman I have never known; not only regularly dischargingthe Sunday duties of lay reader, but also the weekly and daily duties of "seeking for Christ's sheep that are dispersed abroad" and inducing them once more to place themselves within the hallowing influence of the services of the Church.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Providentially, at the time of Major Townsend's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>During the next three years but little progress was made.  The officers and their families, on whom we chiefly depended, were constantly changing, and after about six months Mr. Macdonald removed to Coloma.  Then there was a succession of lay readers, Dr. Tripler, Capt. Gardiner of the First Dragoons, Dr. Murray, U. S. A., and Lieut.  Julian McAllister of the Ordnance Corps.</P>
062.sgm:<P>During the winter of 1858-9, I frequently spent Sunday there, having service in Benicia in the morning, and at Martinez in the afternoon.  At the latter place the Methodist chapel was always offered for our use.  I generally had also a third service at night.  The Female Seminary, Miss Atkins principal, contained at that time about seventy pupils, the majority of whom attended the services at the chapel and indeed took charge of the music.  They collect here from all parts of the State and in a year or two scatter to their homes, to be the future mothers of our people.  Feeling how great an influence they might exert, I arranged for a Sunday evening service whenever I should be in Benicia.  My service at the school was a familiar, extemporaneous lecture, prefaced by singing and the reading of some collects.  During the last season (August, 1859), I held a special Confirmation at the school the evening before the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>In May, 1859, the Rev. E. W. Hager became Missionary here, officiating on alternate Sundays at this place and Napa.  As, however, he returned to the East in September, but little was effected.</P>
062.sgm:<P>During the following autumn, a lot was procured and subscriptions made for building the church edifice.  The project was carried through, and a neat wooden church of Gothic architecture erected at a cost of about fifteen hundred dollars.  It was consecrated in January, 1860.  The day was beautiful and balmy, and the services were admirably conducted.  The Rev. Messrs. Thrall and MacAllister of this city took part in the service.  The Rev. Messrs. Ewer and Chittenden intended to be present, but, having trusted to the Suisun boat of that morning, arrived too late.  Thus the parish is established on a firm basis and will be supplied by services from this city until it can procure a permanent Rector.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXI.<LB>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</HEAD>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>I.  <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
062.sgm:<P>I HAD several times had urgent requests from the few Americans at Los Angeles, to pay them a visit; and also letters from Captain Gardiner, our Lay Reader at Fort Tejon in the south-eastern part of the State, expressing the same desire.  He reads service on Sunday, but they wished to have the Holy Communion administered and some children baptized.  He offered, as travelling is unsafe in that part of the country, to send an escort of Dragoons down to Los Angeles to accompany us on our return.  I had therefore made arrangements to take the journey.  At Los Angeles we were to be joined by the Hon. Edward Stanly (late of North Carolina), who went down by the previous steamer.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I had been prevented during the whole of the past year from visiting the southern part of the State, as it is infested by the worst class of whites and Mexicans, who often rob in large parties, and render it unsafe to travel, except with a party thoroughly armed.  Major E. D. Townsend, U. S. A. (whom I have already mentioned as our lay reader at Benicia), having been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:ordered to inspect Forts Tejon and Miller, had to pass through the country, and I availed myself of the opportunity to go with him.  Some other friends had offered to join us, for the purpose of seeing the country, so that we expected to be strong enough in numbers to dispense with Captain Gardiner's Dragoons.  Besides Mr. Stanly and Major Townsend, the party consisted of my youngest son, Willie, and myself, James E. Calhoun, (son of the late Vice-President, John C. Calhoun, of South Carolina) and Jas. T. Smith<ANCHOR ID="n21-1">*</ANCHOR>
062.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-1">Afterwards Rev. J. tuttle Smith of New York.</NOTE>
062.sgm:<P>My objects were, to spend a Sunday at Los Angeles, where the services of the Church had never been held, for I was the first clergyman of our Church in Southern California, except Mr. Reynolds at San Diego--another Sunday at Fort Tejon,--another at Fort Miller, where there had never been a service,--and generally, to see what is the character of the southern half of the State, with reference to the future prospects of the Church.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
062.sgm:<P>At four P.M. we were on boar of the steamer <HI REND="italics">Republic</HI>
062.sgm: for San Diego.  The last time Captain Baby and I voyaged together, he was mate of the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm: when we were wrecked at San Diego, and I found therefore that he looked rather suspiciously at me.  The clergy, in such cases, are regarded by sailors as Jonahs.  We had about fifty passengers.  The fog was rolling in when we sailed, and no sooner had we passed the Heads and struck the swell of the ocean, than we plunged into a dense bank, in which it was impossible to see for twenty feet.  The Captain says, he never went out in so thick a fog.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We anchored at the usual place in the bay, when the boats came off and took us to shore.  Monterey is unchanged since I had service here in August of last year.  Everything is as quiet and beautiful as formerly--a perfect Spanish town.  Major Townsend and I went to see Mrs. Boston's family, (with whom I stayed on my last visit), and then took a walk through town, and visited Colton Hall and the old Church.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Mr. Calhoun and Willie in their walk saw a characteristic California scene.  Two men who had been quarrelling, proposed settling the dispute on the spot by the duello.  So they drew pistols and prepared to take their ground.  It was just in front of a house, the owner of which came out and objected to their selecting that spot for the fight.  This brought on a kind of triangular contest, when the last comer seeing a magistrate leaning against the fence a short distance off, appealed to him to stop them.  Instead, however, of doing so, he threatened to arrest the pacificator for interfering.  The quarrel had now diffused itself and got into other hands; and perhaps the hot blood had time to cool, so the difficulty was made up.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The last half hour on shore was passed with the Hon. Mr. Wall, collector of the port.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Three weeks afterward, his dead body pierced by seven balls, was found on the road a few miles from Monterey, and at a short distance from it the body of a gentleman, his companion.  They had been attacked by a party of five mounted Senorians.  Later, in attempting to capture these men, Mr. Layton, another of our Churchmen here, was killed with two others.  I mention this to show the necessity for my armed escort in travelling in this southern country.</P>
062.sgm:<P>At three P.M. we sailed, but the sea proved to be rough, and most of us were soon in our state-rooms.  The rest of the day, and through the night, we were pitching about in a dreamy, uncomfortable state of being, afraid to move for fear of consequences.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The sea smoother, but the fog still dense.  In the morning the Captain found he had run too close in shore, and was near the spot where, last year, the unfortunate <HI REND="italics">Yankee Blade</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara has its old California population, and there seem to be few Americans settled there.  Everything, therefore, is primitive and quiet.  The houses are all open, as if they people lived out of doors; and the agricultural implements, scattered about, are of the same clumsy patterns their fathers used in Mexico a hundred years ago.  The town is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>A mile and a half back, on the rising ground at the base of the hills, stands the old Mission of Santa Barbara.  We walked out to it; and found the same evidences of decay and dilapidation which characterize all the California Missions.  There is, as usual, an extensive range of buildings, once occupied by the priests, and terminated at one end by a large church.  Around were the remains of their vineyards and gardens, with a few slight houses, about which some Indians were lounging in the sun, the relics of their once numerous bands of converts.</P>
062.sgm:<P>As we found there was a solitary priest still residing here and keeping up the services of the Church, we knocked at his door and brought him out,--an old man in the coarse gray Franciscan dress.  Calling an Indian boy, he sent him to unlock the church for us.  It was like all the other Mission churches, with little to recommend it but its size, and having, at the entrance, the usual horrible pictures of Purgatory and Paradise.  In front of the building was a circular reservoir with a carved stone fountain.  It is now dry and dusty.  We found there was a series of these reservoirs on the mountain side, on successively rising planes, and connected by canals.  In this way water was brought fourteen miles from its source in the mountains.  Now, however, most of them are dry, their stone ornaments are broken in pieces, and the surrounding country, which the old Padres thus irrigated and made like a garden, is fast relapsing into its former wildness.  It is a lovely spot, however, commanding a wide view of the country and bay, and was selected with the usual good taste of the friars.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:</PAGEINFO><P>We walked back again to the shore.  The <HI REND="italics">Ewing</HI>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>At about seven A. M. we anchored opposite to San Pedro, four hundred and twenty miles from San Francisco, and the end of our voyage.  Here we leave the steamer, which goes on to San Diego.  At the edge of the water is a high bank, and from this the plain extends far as we can see.  There are three <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The plains were covered with thousand of cattle and horses, quite reminding us of the descriptions of old California times.  In the twenty-five miles of our journey, there were but two or three shanties, erected by squatters who were raising cattle, and not a fence or enclosure, except the <HI REND="italics">corrals</HI>
062.sgm: about them.  We reached Los Angeles in about two hours and a half, having changed horses once on the way.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Los Angeles has all the characteristics of an old Spanish town.  It contains about five thousand inhabitants, two thousand of whom may be Americans or English.  The houses are almost invariably one story high,--a style of building which an occasional earthquake has rendered advisable.  All around it is a perfect garden, luxuriant with every kind of fruit.  We visited one vineyard, which, besides a profusion of other fruits, contained fifty thousand vines of a large blue grape.  Part of these grapes are each week sent to San Francisco by the return steamer from San Diego, and part are manufactured into wine.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Availing ourselves of this day to see something of the surrounding country, we drove out about eleven miles to the San Gabriel Mission.  It stands in a most lovely country, but like all the others I have visited, is now in a state of decay.  The single priest remaining here,--a Frenchman speaking no English,--took us into the sacristy and showed us the rich fabrics, heavy with gold embroidery,--remains of their former glory,--and probably brought originally from Spain.  We entered the large church, once filled with their Indian converts, but now of a size entirely useless.  Several children were on their knees before the chancel, who went on with their devotions without seeming to notice our party.  The eldest was reading aloud from some devotional book, while the others responded at intervals.  The heavy stone walls of the church were hung with the usual pictures.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Around the Mission is a country unsurpassed for fertility.  It is well irrigated by little streams from the mountains, that have been led through the fields by the labor of the old Padres.  The only settlers, however, are the lowest class of Spanish Californians or Indians, whose little huts are scattered about, among which the children were running around in a state of entire nudity.  In the hands of our Eastern farmers, this country, with its perpetual summer, would become a perfect Eden.</P>
062.sgm:<P>About a mile from the Mission is a rich tract of wooded country, called the <HI REND="italics">Monte</HI>
062.sgm:<P>On our way home we stopped at the vineyard of a gentleman, (Hon. Mr. Wilson, who is one of those most interested, in Los Angeles, in the establishment of the Church,) and I describe it to show what Providence has done for this country.  It is about seven miles from town.  The house stands on rising ground, and from the front of it there is a view of many miles of rich landscape, much of it dotted with oak trees.  His men were all busy in the manufacture of wine; and while some of them were bringing in the grapes in baskets, others, standing in the vats with their naked feet, were literally "treading the wine press."  The proprietor receives eight thousand dollars a year from the sale of his wine alone.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In the vineyard, besides the grapes, we found a collection of fruit which I had never seen equalled in any part of the world.  There were melons of all kinds, figs just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Until within the last six months, there had been no religious service of any kind in Los Angeles, except that of the Roman Church.  As the preaching there was in Spanish, the Americans never went to it, and were without anything to mark the coming of Sunday.  At that time the Presbyterians sent a minister here who officiated in one of the public court rooms, while the Methodists erected a small building and commenced their services.  The latter place had been offered to us for our services on this day.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We had service morning and evening,--the first time our solemn liturgy was ever heard in this section of the country.  At the morning service there were about eighty present, and a much larger number in the evening.  The next day, just before leaving the place, I baptized the four children of a gentleman, whose family, at the East, had been attached to the Church.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I found several such families in this place, whom I sought out and visited.  They are literally "Christ's sheep dispersed abroad in this naughty world."  Before leaving, I had an opportunity of conferring with a number of the inhabitants.  They told me, the persons present had been much impressed with the dignity and solemnity of our service,--that neither Presbyterianism nor Methodism could exert any influence on this population,--but they had no doubt the Church could be established under very favorable circumstances.  They wanted something which did not preach Nebraska or Kansas, slavery or anti-slavery, and that was not identified with any of the <HI REND="italics">isms</HI>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>I have no doubt they are right, and that they would be able to support a clergyman, as they professed to be ready to do so as soon as the right man could be sent.  This work, however, calls for a man of zeal and energy, with considerable ability as a preacher and knowledge of the world as well.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Our Church people at the East, residing all their lives in a settled state of society, have no idea of the difficulty of forming a congregation from a population who have not heard the gospel preached for years, who are living under no religious restraints, and among whom the religious element is yet to be created.  It is a work of faith, and time, and patience.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Yet to how many of our energetic young men this should present a noble field!  Here they would be the first heralds of the Church; and instead of wearing out their lives in a severe and changing climate, they might make a home in one of the healthiest places in the world.  A perpetual summer reigns; and for this reason, perhaps, the early Spaniards named it the City of Los Angeles, (the City of the Angels).  I certainly have never seen a country which more fully realizes Bishop Heber's description-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"-----every prospect pleases,<LB>And only man is vile."<LB></HI>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II.  Fort Tejon.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monday, Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Captain Gardiner had sent down from <HI REND="italics">Fort Tejon</HI>
062.sgm: (about a hundred miles distant,) a large heavy ambulance wagon, for no other is adapted to the mountain passes through which our road leads.  It was drawn by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Bell was well armed, and all the gentlemen with me had their rifles and revolvers.  I was the only one of the party without any weapon.  As the party was so strong, Captain Gardiner had not thought it necessary to send any escort, as he had intended, believing that we were able to take care of ourselves.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It may seem strange to an Eastern reader to hear of a Bishop's visitation made with such accompaniments, but here there is no help for it.  The country through which we are to pass is infested with California and Mexican outlaws, whose trade is robbery, and who will often shoot down a traveller for the sake of the horse on which he is mounted.  Our friends in Los Angeles warned us, when we left the vehicle to walk, as we were often obliged to do for miles at a time, not to straggle off, but to keep together.  Sometimes these banditti attack in troops, as in the murder of Mr. Wall at Monterey, which I have mentioned.  At other times a single Mexican on horseback dashes by the unsuspecting traveller.  As he passes within twenty feet, suddenly the lariat, which he carries coiled up at his saddle bow, is whirled round his head, and ere the traveller can put himself on his defence, its circle descends with unerring precision, and he is hurled senseless from his horse.  Then, too, in camping out at night, our rest may be invaded by a grizzly bear, as they abound in these mountains.  They often exceed sixteen hundred pounds in weight, and are so tenacious of life that an encounter with them is more dangerous than with an African lion.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We left at eleven o'clock and had hardly got out on the plains, about two miles from Los Angeles, when, in descending a gulch, part of the harness broke, the mules whirled around, and we were saved from an overturn only by the snapping off of the pole.  Nothing could be done where we were, so Bell had to take a couple of mules, return to town and have a new pole made.  We were therefore left for some hours with the wagon and the other mules.  I read, or looked out over the apparently interminable plains, while my companions practiced rifle shooting.  About three in the afternoon our driver returned, and we made a new start.  We shortly passed through a chain of hills, and then again over the plains for seventeen miles.  Not a living object was seen for hours, till, toward evening, the coyotes came out, and we saw them loping along, as they followed us, with their long gallop.  They were often in troops, in one of which we counted seven.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In consequence of our delay by the accident, night closed long before we reached our destination.  We drove on some time in darkness, till the appearance of a single light, a long distance ahead, showed that we were approaching some habitation.  After a time we reached enclosures,--the first we had seen since leaving Los Angeles,--and found ourselves at the old Mission of San Fernando.  The buildings are the most massive I have seen in this country.  Along the whole front runs a corridor, which must be three hundred feet in length, supported by heavy square stone pillars.  Some of the apartments are forty feet long, with thick stone walls and stone floors, reminding me of old castellated mansions in the south of Europe.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Several other travellers arrived late at night from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We had letters to Don Andreas Pico, the present owner of the Mission, and as he was absent, presented them to his major-domo, who treated us with all the hospitality in his power.  We had a regular Spanish supper, <HI REND="italics">olla podrida, frijolas</HI>
062.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We were up at dawn, expecting to be off early, but were detained an hour for breakfast.  Our morning ablutions were performed at a little stream in front of the door, which the old Padres had led there to irrigate their gardens.  We availed ourselves of this delay to inspect the buildings.  The church is like all other Mission churches, except in one particular.  It forms one side of a quadrangle, the other three sides of which are buildings about ten feet high.  This space was formerly used for bullfights, and the spectators were accommodated on the roofs of these buildings.  There are two very extensive vineyards, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We had a Spanish breakfast exactly similar to our supper the night before.  Upon offering to pay the major-domo, he refused to receive anything.  We then urged him to take a present for himself, but he said, "No; when strangers come along, if they make me a present, I receive it; but not from the friends of Don Andreas."  And all this was announced with the highest Castilian manner.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It was seven o'clock before we left the Mission, and after proceeding a few miles, we reached the San Fernando Pass, where the road has been cut through a deep defile in the mountains.  Here we had to get out and walk for some miles, and the scenery was the wildest I have seen since I crossed the Alps.  How our heavy wagon was to get over, was a marvel to us.  At one place was a ledge of rocks almost perpendicular, about four feet high, down which it plunged as if it would turn over and crush the mules, while we involuntarily held our breath as we looked on.  In the pass, two Indians on horseback met us as we were walking, and were loud in their demands for money, till some of the gentlemen allowed their arms to be seen, when their tone was moderated considerably.  Had my companions been unarmed, it was evident they would have had no scruples about enforeing their wishes.</P>
062.sgm:<P>After passing the hills, our course for twenty-two miles was over a level plain, at the termination of which we entered, what was stated to be the most dangerous part of our journey,--a can&tilde;on, or winding defile through the mountains, about seventeen miles long.  It is a narrow pass, hemmed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We stopped just at the entrance of it, near the only house there is for twenty miles in any direction, to take lunch and rest our mules.  We had to choose this spot on account of a spring there.  A short time before, this house had become so notorious a resort of robbers, that a party came out from Los Angeles, captured its inmates,--two Americans and four Mexicans,--and hanged them on the spot.  As the spring by which we halted was only a few hundred yards distant, we noticed that the house had a new set of occupants, but did not learn whether its character had improved.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It was about noon when we entered the defile, the branches of trees on both sides often sweeping against our wagon, and long before sunset involving us in twilight.  Many parts of it reminded me of our ride through the mountains on the Isthmus, from Cruces to Panama.  So, on our mules dragged the heavy wagon over the rocks and through the streams, while most of the way we walked.  Through the whole day we met no human beings and did not wish to, as they probably would not be of the class we would like to encounter.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It is strange to travel thus through a country with the feeling that every one you meet is supposed to be an enemy, and is to be treated accordingly.  Mr. Calhoun has had occasion sometimes to ride about in this region by himself, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We had intended to extricate ourselves from the can&tilde;on before daylight ended, so as to encamp on the open plain beyond.  But when night closed about us, we were still five miles from the end, our mules were tired out, and it was rapidly becoming too dark to thread our way through the ravines.  We therefore turned aside on reaching a level spot, with the little stream on one side and high rocks behind us.  A fallen tree furnished an abundance of wood for our fire, which was supplied with large logs to last through the night.  Here our basket of provisions was opened, tea boiled, and reclining about the fire we had our evening meal.  Willie and I slept in the wagon, the boards of which we found hard enough, while the rest lay round the fire wrapped in their blankets.  Rifles were fresh capped, revolvers examined, and each slept with his arms within reach.  No regular watch was kept, as some one was up every hour to replenish the fire, and the mules picketed around would prove the best sentinels.  On the first approach of men or wild beasts, in such cases, they exhibit an uneasiness which cannot but rouse up at once the whole party.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We were up before daybreak, and on our way as soon as it was light enough to see the path.  We were obliged to walk the greater part of the five miles through the ravine.  At last, we emerged into an open <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Where the valley expands into the wide plains, Elizabeth Lake was pointed out to us at a distance.  It is about half a mile long, and lay glittering in the sunlight, exactly like snow of the most dazzling whiteness.  On coming near, we found it was without a drop of water but filled with a deposit of saleratus.  Not far off was the canvas hut of a settler, the only house we were to pass in our day's journey, near which lay the remains of three bears he had lassoed and killed.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The plains here are about fifteen miles in width.  As the day advanced it became intensely hot; yet we were obliged to push on until we could reach some water to prepare our breakfast and refresh our mules.  About half past ten o'clock, after traveling five hours, we reached a little spring, at which we stopped, as there is no water for the next fourteen miles.  By damming it up we obtained enough for our wants.  There was, however, no shade, and no tree within miles of us.  We all scattered, therfore, about the plain to collect sticks, and the wagon was arranged so as to get as much shade as possible on one side of it.  Into this we crowded, and our fire was built to prepare for breakfast.  Some of our party were almost exhausted, but we found that hot tea equally with sleep merited the praise of being <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Tired nature's sweet restorer."<LB></HI>
062.sgm:<P>We had a long, hot drive all day over the plains.  There was no timber, except in one place, where the plain was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>In the middle of the afternoon we reached the only water to be found for many miles, and, of course, had to remain till next morning.  It is a small spring, of which an Irishman has taken possession.  He has a canvas house of one room, and supports himself by his gun, and by furnishing provisions to parties passing over the plains.  A pile of antelope skins lying near the house, gave an intimation of what our fare was to be, and we soon had a dinner of the meat, cooked for us out in the open air.  Towards evening, some of our party went to the neighboring hills to try to shoot an antelope for themselves, but came back unsuccessful.  At night, we camped out near the house.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In the evening a man arrived on horseback, leading another horse.  He proved to be a Mormon belonging to a party, camped twelve miles distant in the hills, by whom he had been sent down for provisions.  He was a perfect specimen of the wild, reckless, swearing class of men who infest this country, utterly careless of his own life and regardless of that of every one else.  Late at night, to our relief, he took his departure, and we heard him shouting and singing, as he went up through the hills, "making night hideous" with his ribaldry.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday</HI>
062.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The stars were shining when we arose, and as there is no dressing to be done, it does not take us long to prepare for our journey.  Before we set out, "Irish John" cooked breakfast for us.  In a few miles the plains ended and we reached the hills, and then wound through valleys dotted with old oak trees.  Occasionally we saw a little lake, and, as on the day before, frequent bands of antelopes.  About noon we reached Tejon Pass, a valley hemmed in by mountains.  At its entrance a large dry lake of saleratus glittered in the sun.  The loose powder wafted up by the wind hung over it like a white cloud.  The valley here is several miles wide, and as we drove through it we saw on the soft earth, the whole length of our way the tracks of two large grizzlies which had shortly preceded us.  As we approached the military post, Bell cracked his whip vigorously, and the tired mules, urged to a spasmodic effort, dashed up to the officers' quarters where we found Captain Gardiner ready to receive us.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The post at the Tejon is on a little plain, entirely surrounded by high mountains, which give it a confined appearance.  It is, however, beautifully situated in a grove of old oaks.  Under one of these, which stands on the parade ground, in 1837, Peter Le Bec, an old hunter, was killed by a bear, and his companions buried him at its foot.  They then stripped the bark, for some three feet, from the trunk of the tree; and carved on it an inscription, surmounted by a cross, which remains to this day, though the bark is beginning to grow over it on all sides.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The barracks,--handsome <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm: buildings,--were being erected around the sides of the parade ground.  None of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:them were yet finished, and the soldiers were living in tents.  The officers, too, were living under canvas, except Captain Gardiner, who had a small temporary <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
062.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>To-day Major Townsend attended to his official duties.  The soldiers were all paraded for him to inspect.  As their horses are pasturing four miles off, they were inspected as infantry.  Most of the horses have lately come over the plains with Colonel Steptoe's command, by the way of Salt Lake, and will need some time to recruit from the fatigues of the march, where both water and forage were often exceedingly scarce.  The Major afterwards inspected every department of the post.  The officers were all invited to meet us at dinner at Captain Gardiner's.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday</HI>
062.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We all dined to-day at Captain Kirkham's.  He had one canvas tent in front for his family, and another, a few feet back of it, for his kitchen.  Between them was a large oak tree, and under it was stretched an awning connecting the two tents.  This was the diningroom.  Beside the table rose the rough trunk of the old tree, so that we had (as one of the party remarked), "oak carvings about us."</P>
062.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we rode out about four miles, through the passes of the mountains, to where the dragoons' horses were pasturing, and in the evening, in company with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday</HI>
062.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">Oct</HI>
062.sgm:<P>There is no service of the Church within two hundred and fifty miles of this place, nor a religious service of any kind nearer than Los Angeles.  It happens, however, (not an unusual circumstance in the army,) that all the officers at this post are Churchmen--several are communicants--and Captains Gardiner and Kirkham have their families residing here.  The former was, therefore, some months ago, licensed to act as lay reader, and one service has been regularly performed.  My object in spending the Sunday here, was, by myself holding service, to give in the minds of the men a sanction to that of the lay reader--to administer the Holy Communion, which some of them have had no opportunity of receiving since they left the Atlantic States--and also to baptize several children, whose families may remain for years at this secluded post, without the opportunity of seeing a clerygman.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We had service in a large room of the unfinished barracks.  All the officers and quite a number o the men attended.  At the Holy Communion there were seven recipients besides the members of our own party.  At noon, at Captain Kirkham's quarters, I baptized his infant, only one week old, and after the Second Lesson in the afternoon, baptized the child of Captain Gardiner.  In the evening I visited the family of a soldier who had died that day.  He was buried early the next morning, his comrades firing their volleys over his grave, after I had read the burial service.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Thus ended my visit at this dragoon station, made so pleasant by the warm hospitality of the officers.  I was fully compensated for all the fatigue of the journey by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III.  <HI REND="italics">The Plains and Fort Miller</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>About eleven o'clock we took leave of our hosts, several of the officers accompanying us on horseback for our first day's ride.  We had the same driver and heavy ambulance as before, with six mules, a dragoon on horseback to act as guide, and two saddle horses, so that we could in turn have the relief of a ride and also lighten the wagon of our weight.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In the first few miles through the pass of the mountains the scenery was exceedingly wild, and the descent so great that we had to walk most of the way.  The road descends twenty-four hundred feet in five miles.  From the mountain side we had a view of the plain stretching as far as the eye could reach, and in the distance, glancing in the sunlight, the waters of Kern Lake.  Just as we entered on the plain, we passed a small Indian village of about forty persons,</P>
062.sgm:<P>After skirting the mountain for some twelve miles, we arrived at the Indian Reservation.  Here we were obliged to stop for the rest of the day, as Major Townsend was ordered to investigate its condition.  There is here a tract of thirty thousand acres set apart by Government for the Indians, but at present there are not three hundred residing on it.  At this season however the wild Indians from the mountains have come down to unite with them in holding their annual Dog Feast, so that there are about one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We drove on about four miles to the residence of the Indian agent.  He has a plain house, with one room on each side of the hall, where he lives with eight or ten employees.  A short distance from the house, on a little knoll, is the grave of one of his men who was killed a month before by a grizzly.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The agent entertained us to the best of his ability, giving one room in which there was a bed, to myself and son, and the only other room to the rest of our party, who slept on the floor wrapped in their blankets.  We had for dinner, some tough meat, and hot bread as heavy as lead, coffee sweetened with a kind of maple sugar made on the premises, but no milk.</P>
062.sgm:<P>After attempting this dinner it was thought advisable to have a gallop on horseback before we endeavored to sleep.  In the latter part of the afternoon, therefore, Mr. Stanly and Willie rode down to the Indian camp, while the rest of our party waited till dark to go with the Indian agent, who was to provide us with horses and act as guide.  There was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>There was to be a war dance late in the evening by some of the wild Indians, which was to take place outside of the camp.  A large fire was made, and we waited for an hour, during which some of the Indians, who had been at one time at the old Missions, were singing songs in a nasal tone very much like the intoning of the service by the old Padres, from whom they had undoubtedly acquired it.  Tired out with waiting, I went into an unoccupied Indian lodge near by, and threw myself down to rest.  As I lay there, looking up to the roof above me made of tule reeds, through which the occasional glimmering of the stars was seen, the only light being the glare of the fires before the opening of the lodge, and listening to the discordant singing of the Indians without, I thought how strange it was to find myself in such a situation in this wild country on the Pacific coast.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Hearing at last that the war party had finished painting and were nearly ready, we walked out in search of them.  We found them grouped around the dim embers of a fire, singing in a low, droning tone, as if preparing their spirits for the task.  After a time they rose, and repairing to where the large fire had been built, ranged themselves before it.  The musicians, seated on the ground on the other side, began playing a rude chant,--in which the dancers joined,-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Then commenced the dance, which was so violent in its character that the perspiration rolled off them in streams.  It was a commemoration of the dead, and as those who died in battle were mentioned in succession, the leader went through the representation of their deaths, throwing himself down on the ground and acting the last scene with its struggles and exhaustion.  Sometimes he assumed the precise attitude of the antique statue, "the Dying Gladiator."  As the dance went on, they seemed to work themselves up into an intense excitement, and would continue it, we were told, till morning.  It was a wild scene as the glare of the fire fell upon the dancers and a thousand Indians gathered in a circle round them, and when I looked around on our little party in this dense throng of excited savages, I felt some apprehension as to what the rising war spirit might lead to.  I confess, I was somewhat relieved when late at night the signal was made to disengage ourselves from the crowd of Indians and get without the camp, preparatory to our return.  It was clear star-light and there was something exhilarating in our ride, as for about an hour we followed the guidance of the agent over what seemed to us the pathless prairi.e</P>
062.sgm:<P>Can anything be done for the spiritual benefit of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>I copy the above paragraph from my journal kept at that time.  Several years have since passed, and no steps have yet been taken to improve the condition of the Indians.  In fact, they are subjected to outrages from our wild frontier settlers which must soon end in their extermination.  When, years hence, this narrative is first submitted to the eye of a reader, I believe there will not be an Indian living within the bounds of this State; but then, looking back upon the time that has passed, and the tribes which have melted like the snow-drift, leaving no trace behind, we fear the record in regard to them will be--"no man cared for their souls."</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We were up by daylight, and after washing at a little stream near the house, had breakfast at the agent's.  After driving about six miles, we came to some springs called "the sinks," where we found two men who had camped during the night.  This was the last water we were to see for more than thirty miles, and here, too, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>By mid-day the sun was burning hot, and we had dragged over wastes of sand till our animals drooped and we ourselves were almost exhausted.  At noon, we halted for a few minutes to rest, though in the glare of the sun; and without leaving the ambulance, took such lunch as our stores afforded.  Then on--on we toiled for the rest of the day.  We met but one person--a Mexican on horseback.  During the afternoon the ground became rolling, and as we dragged up each knoll, we hoped to see some traces of the promised river, but before us was only a new succession of the same barren mounds.  Our driver and the guide began an animated discussion about the direction of the different trails, and we feared that they had mistaken their way.  At length Major Townsend, riding forward to the crown of one of the mounds, announced that he saw the river below.  We found that it was in a deep valley with a line of trees through it, showing the presence of water.  We left the ambulance to let it drive down the precipitate bank, and walked half a mile to the Kern River, having travelled thirty-three miles without water.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Kern River is about one hundred feet broad, and at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We crossed the river and encamped in a grove of cottonwoods and willows, perfectly tired out.  Never was the sight of water so grateful to us, and we now could realize the meaning of the Oriental description,--"a barren and dry land, where no water is."  A good bath in the river, however, refreshed us, and after building our fire and having supper, we spent a pleasant evening reclining on our blankets about the burning logs.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We were awakened before dawn by the howling of the coyotes about us, and, after a few hurried mouthfuls, were off before six o'clock.  Late at night we had seen on the opposite side of the river a fire, showing that some travellers had camped there.  At daylight they crossed, and we found they were two men from the Upper Mines who were going on horseback to the Kern River mines.  On the plains they had taken the wrong trail and wandered about all day, almost dying of exhaustion.  As one of them expressed it--"starved to death for want of water."  Providentially, late at night, they struck the Kern River.</P>
062.sgm:<P>After leaving the grove by the river, we entered at once among the most desolate hills.  Not a sign of herbage was seen on them--not enough to attract a bee.  We met with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Our guide informed us that at noon we should reach a camping ground where there was water.  At that time we saw indeed a line of green trees in one of the valleys, showing a water course, but on reaching it, we found it almost entirely dry.  There were two springs near it, but they were strongly impregnated with sulphur, so that we "could not drink of the waters for they were bitter."  We had to content ourselves, therefore, with the hope of reaching White River in the evening.  We saw, however, numerous places around where stakes had been driven into the ground for picketing animals, showing that it had been frequently used as a camping ground.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The journey of the afternoon was as oppressive as that of the morning.  We were constantly passing through deep gulches and over hills where we had to get out and walk.  Often, when we had taken refuge behind some rock, against the heat of the sun, did we realize the force of that Scripture imagery--"Like the shadow of a great rock in a weary land!"  Towards evening a large grizzly was seen about a mile from us among the hills.  Mr. Stanly and Major Townsend, who were on horseback, together with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>At sunset, we saw at a distance in the valley, the line of green trees which marked the course of White River.  At the sight, our exhausted animals seemed to toil on with new vigor; but our disappointment cannot easily be described when we found that it was entirely dry, nothing but a bed of shining sand.  We had travelled thirty-three miles, equal to fifty-three miles of ordinary travel.  We crossed on the dry bed, and after ranging up and down the bank for some miles, came to the canvas house of a squatter, near which we camped, in a grove of oaks.  He had dug a shallow well, which was not a spring, but the water oozed up through the earth, and was as muddy, therefore, as the usual water of our gutters.  We procured enough, however, to make some tea, though there was none for our poor animals after their hot day's work, and after a hasty meal we were soon asleep around our fire.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We were stirring long before dawn, and off as soon as it was light enough to harness, it being necessary to push on as fast as possible to find water.  The country was of the same character as yesterday, sandy and desolate.  When going up a hill, we discovered that one of the hind wheels was just coming off.  The lynch-pin was gone, and we were detained while our guide rode back some miles to look for it.  His search, however, was vain, and as a last resource he cut off the end of his hickory whip <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>A few miles further on we met a wretched looking man traveling on foot on his way to the mines.  He seemed almost exhausted.  We relieved his wants as far as we could, by giving him something to eat and drink, and directed him where he could find the spring we had left.  He is one of the many who, in traversing these wastes alone, sink down and die.  Their remains are not seen by any traveller for months; and their friends at home never know the manner of their end.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Two hours after this we met the sheriff with his posse, who informed us he had been breaking up a band of robbers, some of whom had been taken, while others were still lurking in the thickets on Tulare River, where we expected to encamp.</P>
062.sgm:<P>At noon we reached Three Creeks, but found it dry.  A squatter by the river had, however, dug some pits, from which we procured a small supply of water.  We passed through the same kind of country till the middle of the afternoon, when we saw at a distance the trees on the banks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>After a refreshing bath in the beautiful clear water of the river, we had a visit from a settler who had stationed himself near our camping ground.  As the officers were accustomed to go back and forth by this trail, he had formed an acquaintance with many of them, and now came to ask us to tea at his cabin.  We were most happy to accept his invitation and shall long remember the hospitality of these good people.  Their cabin was but a single room, with beds in the corners, but they gave us a capital tea, at which they presided with a dignity not often seen in "the States."  We spent an hour after tea with our host, during which time he entertained us with accounts of his manner of life in this secluded spot, with adventures in the wilderness, and stories of grizzlies attacking parties in the thickets by the river where we had camped.  That night we were a little more careful than usual in keeping our fire replenished.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>On our way by daybreak.  I awoke with a feeling of illness which increased during our drive of nineteen miles over a scorched plain.  We at length entered an oak forest of the most splendid trees, having in it, here and there, small settlements of Indians who were busily engaged in collecting their winter store of acorns.  After going through this for nine miles we came to a stream called "Four Creeks," which we crossed, and camped beyond among the oaks.  It was but little past noon, but the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>My illness having increased, I lay down on the hard boards of the wagon, where I remained till sundown, wondering, in case I was to be really ill, what I should do--two days' journey from any physician or settlement.  Towards evening, feeling better, probably from rest and abstinence, I crossed the river to a shell of a house which a squatter had erected on the opposite side, where we got some tea.  The woman who prepared it for us was suffering from fever and ague, which is common on all these river bottoms.  Her wretched appearance did not make the prospect of our night's rest in the open air very agreeable.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We were up before light, and drove about nine miles through the oaks to a solitary house where we breakfasted.  The house consisted of but one room, three of its corners occupied by beds.  The next eighteen miles were over the hot plains,--then about seven miles through the forests again, crossing several dry river beds filled with cobble-stones, till late in the afternoon we reached King's River, a bright stream about two hundred feet wide.  We forded it and found on the opposite side a beautiful plateau covered with oaks.  Two teamsters who had camped there with their mules, told us they were obliged to cross the plains we had been over, in the night, to avoid the excessive heat.  There were large bodies of Indians on the banks, whom we visited after our camping was arranged.  They were living in the open air, without even any lodges, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Being out of provisions we purchased some fish of the Indians, while Major Townsend and our guide forded the river on their horses, and riding up some distance came to a settler's shanty, where they bought some chickens and eggs.  Fallen trees furnished us an abundant supply of fuel for our cooking and for fires through the night.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We had expected to have reached Fort Miller this evening, but found ourselves thirty miles distant.  We had lost time, owing to the necessity of arranging our journey each day with regard to the supply of water.  Stay where we were, however, over Sunday, we could not.  We had no provisions, and the air was so malarious, that we found the Indians about us, though born on the spot, rapidly decreasing in numbers through the effects of the fever and ague.  Nothing remained for us, therefore, but to push on next morning and reach Fort Miller as early as possible, that at least a portion of the day might be devoted to its proper object.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We were up this morning by four o'clock, long before the faintest streak of dawn appeared in the east.  After a hasty breakfast of sea biscuit and hard boiled eggs, we set off while it was so dark that we could not see the trail through the open woods, but were obliged for some miles to trust to the sagacity of the mules, leaving them to walk and find the path for themselves.  After a few miles we emerged from the oak openings, when the rest of our way was, as usual, over the dusty, scorched plains.  Between ten and eleven o'clock, we reached the hills overlooking Fort Miller; but missing the road, we had to dismount, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>As the formidable cavalcade of two ambulances, three horsemen, and a party on foot, wound round the hills towards the post, the officers, (as we afterwards learned,) turned out with their glasses to see who could be coming, as they had only expected Major Townsend and myself.  The post is situated on a plateau overlooking the town and river.  There are only about seventy men of the Third Artillery stationed here.  The officers met us as we arrived, and we had a warm welcome.  Major Townsend went with Lieut. Loeser and the rest of us to Dr. Murray's quarters.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The service of our Church had never been held here, nor, when Sunday came, had there been anything to mark the day.  Arrangements were soon made, after our arrival, for service in the evening, and a broad hall in one of the buildings devoted to the officers was cleared for that purpose.  The officers with their families, and many of the soldiers attended, and after the Second Lesson I baptized the child of one of the privates.  A beginning having thus been made, before I left the post, I licensed Dr. Murray, the surgeon, a communicant of the Church, to act as lay reader, and arrangements were made for having the service every Sunday.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We remained at the post for two days, resting from the fatigue of our journey and enjoying the open hospitality of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Long before daylight, we were up and our little stage with two horses was ready.  After taking leave of our kind entertainers, we commenced our journey on the banks of the San Joaquin.  At about nine o'clock we stopped at a solitary house intended for teamsters, where, for one dollar each, we had a breakfast; but everything was so filthy that we could hardly eat even after our long morning ride.  The drive, for the whole day--was over the same kind of country as during the preceding week--desolate plains varied with an occasional hill and river, and then a cattle ranch.  At noon we reached a place similar to the one at which we had breakfasted, where they wished us to dine, but we declined, and preferred waiting till we reached Snelling's at evening.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>As we stopped at a solitary ranch to change horses, the owner got in and went on with us.  I had noticed two very fine looking young Indians, about eighteen years of age, standing before the door, and remarked to him that they were the best specimens of IndiansI had seen.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Yes," said he, "I was offered twelve hundred dollars for one of those boys.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"But how," I asked, "could you sell him?"</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Why, just as I could anything else--my horse or my cow.  I got him some years ago and trained him up.  He's mine.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"But suppose," I continued, "he should leave you and refuse to work any more."</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Then, I should do just as I have done before,--catch him and put him right down to his work."</P>
062.sgm:<P>"If you were nearer San Francisco," remarked Mr. Stanly, "there might be such a thing as a <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"That might do, sir, in San Francisco, but let me tell you that here in the mountains, might makes right."</P>
062.sgm:<P>The next topic was the story of a gambler who came and "squatted" on his ranch to levy blackmail on him and his brother.  After narrating his grievances and annoyances, Mr. Stanly asked--</P>
062.sgm:<P>"What became of him?"</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Oh, my brother shot him with a derringer.  The ball went in here," (touching one temple,) "and came out here," (touching the other temple).  And all this was said just as coolly as if he were describing the shooting of a coyote.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Then came a description of the killing of Joaquin, a noted bandit, for whose head the government had offered a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>I have given these conversations to illustrate the character of the men, wild and lawless, generally from the frontier of the West, who have formed so much of the emigration to this country.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Just before dark we reached Snelling's, a small settlement with fine trees about it.  The hotel here is large and seemed full, this being a central point from which stages go up through Mariposa County.  There is probably no place in California which collects so many outlaws as this tavern, or which is so marked for deeds of bloodshed.  After supper we retired early to prepare for our last day's travel.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Off in the stage by bright moonlight, which fortunately lasted till daylight.  We had six passengers, including a Chinaman.  After fording the Stanislaus River, we ate breakfast at a tavern on the bank.  The country we passed through is much richer and more thickly settled.  Oak trees are scattered park-like through it, and we passed cultivated farms, increasing in frequency as we approached Stockton.  We reached there at four in the afternoon, just in time for the boat.  Here, for the first time in several days, we had an opportunity to dress, and the next morning awoke at the wharf in San Francisco, after having been absent about a month.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Thanks to kind Providence, we reached home without a single accident.  I believe but one of our party suffered any ill effects from the journey.  More than a year <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXII.<LB>RURAL PARISHES.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>THERE are several places in California, where the Church has been founded, the story of each of which is short, and yet the annals of this diocese would not be complete if it were omitted.  I shall group them together therefore in a single chapter, taking them in succession.</P>
062.sgm:<P>At the close of my first year's residence here--in 1854--I received an urgent appeal from a young man at Coloma, to pay it a visit.  He described it as a thriving town--the county seat--and yet, without any place of religious worship.  I determined therefore in the following month to go there.</P>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
062.sgm:<P>, I was officiating at Marysville, where Mr. Hager had recently begun his labors.  The following day, Monday, I left Marysville, to return to Sacramento, in the little, high pressure steamer, <HI REND="italics">Pearl</HI>
062.sgm:.  Another steamer started at the same time, so that we raced down at the top of our speed, reaching Sacramento at two P. M.  Five mornings afterwards, the <HI REND="italics">Pearl</HI>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>On Tuesday, I took the stage at daylight for Coloma in the mountains of El Dorado County.  It was a long and wearisome ride.  The distance is about fifty-five miles, but it was the rainy season--the roads had been cut up--and there were occasional showers through the day.  After about twenty miles, the road turns aside into the mountain mining district.  We passed through several little mining settlements, such as Negro Hill, and Mormon Island; and in the gulches and ravines saw the miners, by twos and threes, at their hard tasks.  The country, too, is traversed in various directions, by ditches and flumes constructed to carry water to the "diggings."  We reached our destination at about four in the afternoon, where my correspondent met me; and I found a place had been provided for me at the hotel.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The town proper of Coloma contains only between six and seven hundred inhabitants, but a numerous mining population is scattered around it.  Although ranked among the mining towns it has beautiful gardens which are famous for their fruit, and extensive vineyards are being planted in the vicinity.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It is a beautifully situated place, surrounded by high mountains on which the lights and shadows play; and the effects, particularly at sunset, are sometimes exceedingly fine.  Through the mountains, flows a little stream, on which is a mill that has become historical as the spot where gold was first discovered in California.  Some men were digging a mill race for General Sutter, when their attention was attracted by the glittering ore.  This led to further explorations, the riches of California were disclosed, and as soon as the news reached the world, the rush of immigration began.  While here, I saw the first piece of gold that was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>In the evening I met some members of the Church who were arranging a choir for their first service.  Wednesday was spent with Mr. Searle in visiting all those in the town whose tendencies were in favor of the Church.  In the evening, the Court House was crowded, and I held service and preached, baptizing an infant after the Second Lesson.  The next day I returned to Sacramento, reaching there in time for the noon boat for San Francisco.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I found, as they had told me, there was not a religious service of any denomination held in Coloma.  Now and then, some wandering Methodists came, but they were generally so illiterate that the congregation could not listen to them with patience.  While I was there measures were taken to erect a Church--a subscription was commenced--and they soon after wrote me, that a plan had been adopted and the building commenced.</P>
062.sgm:<P>During the following May, I once more visited Coloma, arriving there on the evening of the 11th.  The first object which greeted my sight as we entered the town, was the little Church which had been built since my last visit.</P>
062.sgm:<P>On the next day--Saturday--I drove over to Placerville, eleven miles distant, in company with Judge Robinson of Coloma, who kindly volunteered to be my guide.  My object was to inquire into the feasibility of establishing the Church in that place, and if possible, to become acquainted with some of those who were Churchmen at home.  While <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The Court House was well filled for our services both morning and evening, when I read service and preached.</P>
062.sgm:<P>I remained over the next day for the purpose of visiting the different members of the Church; and to give some advice with regard to the interior and chancel arrangements of the new building.</P>
062.sgm:<P>During the following January, 1856, the Rev. James W. Capen arrived and entered on his duties as Rector.  The health of his wife, however, in a few months, obliged him to remove to Oakland for sea air.  Then the Rev. D. F. Macdonald came, who remained for more than a year.  During their residence I visited the parish several times, and on one Sunday evening officiated at Placerville in the Presbyterian house of worship, which was crowded.  About this time, however, Coloma began to decline.  The "diggings" in the neighborhood proved less rich, and the removal of the county seat to Placerville took away some of the best people.  Mr. Macdonald went to Stockton; and while I write this the church is without a pastor.  If possible, I will send some one to Placerville, who will hold occasional services at Coloma.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Oakland is another rural parish.  It is situated directly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>The result was, that a commodious room was arranged for service, with altar, chancel, pulpit, vestry-room, etc.  I spent Sunday, Dec. 17th there, and held the first service, reading prayers and preaching, morning and afternoon.  Then, Rev. Mr. Syle, who had gone to China as a missionary, but being unable to accomplish anything there had settled down in Oakland, took the parish.  In a few months, however, it died on his hands and he returned to China.  Then Mr. Capen removed thither from Coloma on account of his wife's health.  In a few months, however, he returned to the East.  Then the room used for a chapel was burned down, and for two years nothing further was done.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Then Rev. Benj. Akerly entered on his duties as missionary, and by his untiring energy the congregation was collected and the present Church erected, which was consecrated March, 1860.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Among my most pleasant recollections is that of my first service at Petaluma.  Mr. Wickersham, one of the congregation, had called on me, and I made an appointment for Tuesday, March 10th, 1857.  I found Petaluma, a flourishing town which had sprung up in the last two years, and as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>It was a soft and beautiful moonlight night.  In accordance with notice given, I had Evening Service and preached in the Methodist house of worship, which had been offered for our use.  The building was crowded, very many not being able to obtain admission.  Immediately after service I baptized two children, and the next day returned to San Francisco.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Napa is a similar agricultural community.  My first visit there was on July 31, 1858.  I officiated in the morning in the Presbyterian house of worship, and again in the evening in the Methodist meeting house.  These were our first services in Napa.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXIII.<LB>RETURN.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>WITH this chapter I conclude the history of my early labors in this Diocese.  On April 20th, 1857, I returned to the Atlantic States, with my family.  Our voyage down the coast was in the <HI REND="italics">Golden Age</HI>
062.sgm:, over an unrippled sea, and with every attending circumstance to make it pleasant.  On the other side, our steamer was the <HI REND="italics">Central America</HI>
062.sgm:<P>During this summer my election as Diocesan was ratified by the Bishops and Standing Committees; and in the autumn I prepared to return to California.  It was not, however, until November 20th that I was able to set out.  Of my own family, I had only my wife with me.  My eldest son Lawrence, (a Lieutenant in the Third Artillery,) I left stationed at Governor's Island, and my other son, Willie, was a student at Yale College.  I had, however, the wife and daughters of the Hon. William Duer under my charge.</P>
062.sgm:<P>A more disagreeable voyage than this proved to be, is seldom made.  I copy the record of it from my letter to Rev. Dr. Van Kleeck, as published in the <HI REND="italics">Spirit of Missions</HI>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>I.<LB><HI REND="italics">My dear Brother</HI>
062.sgm::  It was with no pleasant feelings that I parted from you, as well as my other friends, on the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Star of the West</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Shall I give you an account of our voyage?  It has little of adventure, but it may be interesting to some of your readers, who have friends in this land, merely as showing what a voyage to California sometimes is.</P>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>It was evident enough, before we cleared the Narrows, that our steamer was crowded to excess and greatly overloaded.  She is but eleven hundred burthen, (little more than one third that of the steamer which is to receive us on the Pacific,) and carries probably more than a thousand passengers.  The officers acknowledge seven hundred and sixty passengers, while she might comfortably accommodate half that number.  The first night out of New York, in winter, is always dismal.  The severe cold--the single stove in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Saturday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>To gain places for more passengers, two rows of state-rooms have been built on the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Star of the West</HI>
062.sgm: --the only steamer in which I have sailed on the Atlantic which has such upper works.  The <HI REND="italics">San Francisco</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday</HI>
062.sgm:, 22nd.  No Sabbath-day of rest and quiet; but our vessel still pitching, we remained in our berths through the morning.  At noon, I was up for the first time since we left New York, and managed to get Mrs. Kip to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>At night, a renewal of the gale.  We have in our state-room not only more motion than in any other part of the ship, but we hear more of the force of the waves.  Below us, at the stern, the parted waters meet again, and seethe and dash together, and we cannot escape the ceaseless sound.  Every few moments a wave would strike the bows, and our vessel would seem to stop as though a giant had struck her, and quiver for a moment in every plank, and then again dart forward on her way.  As our upper cabin creaked, and seemed to sway in the wind as we rolled, the fears of my wife reached their height, and most earnest were her entreaties to me to take her down into the lower cabin.  Knowing, however, that it was perfectly suffocating there, where every table and seat, and even the floor, had its occupants, I was obliged to insist on our running the risk of the upper cabin.</P>
062.sgm:<P>In the night we were opposite Cape Hatteras, and probably near the spot where the ill-fated <HI REND="italics">Central America</HI>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monday</HI>
062.sgm:, 23rd.  Sea still high.  We have lately been making, against this head wind and sea, but one hundred and fifty miles in twenty-four hours.  Our steamer, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>When able to leave our berths we took refuge in the Captain's room, where we remained till late in the evening.  The other ladies under my charge I have not seen for two days.  They are in the dining room cabin, where I have not dared to venture; and I suppose, like myself, they are <HI REND="italics">hors du combat</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The night was the worst we have yet had; not only very rough, and with a strong head sea striking our bows, but at midnight a rain storm commenced, and it poured in torrents.  In the last few days and nights the crowded steerage passengers must have suffered terribly.  We have been frequently shipping seas, from which it was impossible to protect those forward.</P>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>During the next few days, though never calm, it was sufficiently smooth to bring out the passengers, some of whom had not been seen since we left New York.  We have the strange medley to be seen nowhere but in a California steamer--army and navy officers; Spaniards, Mexicans, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:Costa Ricans, (whom Walker had dislodged, returning home; ladies going to join their husbands in California; two Presbyterian missionaries returning to the Sandwich Islands; six Sisters of Charity; and over one hundred children.  We have the usual developments of evil, which mark those who have broken away from the restraints of home, and who, by their conduct, falsify the old maxim--" <HI REND="italics">Coelum, non animum mutant, qui trans mare current</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Among our passengers is the celebrated German traveller, Wagner, who, twenty years ago, won a world-wide reputation by his explorations in Africa and afterwards in the East.  He is now sent out by the King of Bavaria as head of an exploring party, to spend a couple of years in examining the Equatorial Regions of South America, on the western coast.  They go from the Isthmus to Peru.  With him is a distinguished artist, and also a German Baroness who has joined the party to pursue certain botanical researches.  On her card, which she gave me, her name is <HI REND="italics">La Baronne de Hermayr Hortenbug, ne&acute;e Baronne de Sternburg</HI>
062.sgm:<P>26th.  In the evening made our first land, the light on Salt Keys, one hundred and twenty-three miles from Havanna.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>27th.  At eight A. M. when I came on deck, found we were coasting along the shores of Cuba.  The "Gem of the Antilles" was before us, and in the distance was seen Moro Castle, at the entrance of the harbor of Havana.  In an hour more we had come to anchor.  A narrow passage, strongly fortified on both sides, is the only entrance.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We were soon surrounded by boats from the city, and after the proper officials had made their visit, were permitted to go on shore. The first thing at landing was to go to an officer on the wharf, where passports were furnished us, for which we paid one dollar each.  We walked up to the public square on which the palace fronts.  It is filled with tropical trees--the palm, the cocoa, and the banana--presenting a strangely beautiful view to one from a colder clime.  Soldiers meet us at every turn, and it is said that thirty thousand can be collected in this city in a few hours.  The streets are narrow, to secure shade and coolness, and the high, substantial houses and shops remind one of cities in the South of Europe.  Ladies, in their light summer dresses with the <HI REND="italics">rebozo</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The usual vehicle is the <HI REND="italics">volante</HI>
062.sgm:, a kind of gig holding two, with very long shafts, so that the horse is at a distance from the carriage, and is ridden by the driver postilion fashion.  We hired several of these for our party, and set off to see the city and its environs.  Driving through the large open square where the fashion of Havana assembles in the cool of the evening, and through the parade ground, we reached the open country beyond.  In every part of the city are marble fountains, generally surmounted by a statue of one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We drove out to a deserted villa, about four miles from the city.  We heard that it had been for years in chancery, and had thus been suffered to fall to decay.  The house itself was rapidly crumbling to pieces, its frescoes peeling off, and its gay colors fading.  Around it, stretched long walks, lined with statues, now mutilated, but showing that it had once possessed every convenience for comfort and pleasure.  We saw the out-houses, where the proprietor must once have kept an extensive aviary and zoological collection.  All the departments were untenanted but one, through which a stream of water flowed, where a solitary alligator was yet imprisoned.  The air was like June, and as we walked around the grounds, we saw on every side evidence of the luxury of this climate.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We returned to the city by a different road, affording similar scenes.  Our next visit was to the Cathedral, a fine, extensive building, the exterior presenting a venerable appearance, and the chancel within being rich with varied marbles.  Beneath this was buried the remains of Columbus--"the worthy and adventurous general of the seas"--as the old Spanish chronicles call him.  He died at Valladolid, in 1506, and in 1536 his remains were transported to St. Domingo, that he might rest in the new world which he had discovered.  When that island was ceded to France in 1796, they were once more removed and interred in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:Cathedral of Havana, that they might be in Spanish soil.  They were brought with great parade on the man-of-war called the <HI REND="italics">Discoverer</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Against the wall, on one side of the chancel, is the monument, the upper part of which contains the portrait of Columbus, in bold relief, while on the lower part, surrounded by nautical instruments, is the Spanish inscription, of which this is the translation:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh, remains and imae of the great Columbus!<LB>May ye last a thousand ages, preserved in the urn<LB>And in the remembrance of our nation!<LB></HI>
062.sgm:<P>It was blowing very fresh when we left the wharf in a little sail-boat manned by native boatmen.  It danced over the waves, to the great terror of the ladies, and it required a series of tacks to bring us up to the steamer.  At three o'clock we were again under way, having taken in about seventy passengers, who came from New Orleans.</P>
062.sgm:<P>28th.  Another rough day.  We had, too, this morning, an alarm of the most fearful kind that can occur at sea.  We were just leaving the breakfast table, when below in the second cabin there was a rush, and the shriek of women, and the cry of fire.  It took but a few steps to bring the Captain to the spot.  One of the women, in a room below containing three berths on each side with a narrow passage between them, had undertaken to cook with an alcohol lamp.  After lighting it, she left the room, when a roll of the ship upset it, and in an instant the burning alcohol was all over the floor.  The children shrieked, when a man in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We are now beginning to have a new firmament about us.  The old familiar constellations which shine upon our own land have some of them sunk below the horizon, and in place of them we have the Southern Cross.</P>
062.sgm:<P>30th.  The sea smooth, but we have the excessive heat of the tropics.  For some days there has been a whispered report of sickness aboard.  It has gradually deepened into certainty, and to-day the officers acknowledged that yellow fever is prevailing.  It is fearful to be crowded together thus, in this stifling heat, with an infectious disease gradually increasing, and no way of escape.</P>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday</HI>
062.sgm:, Dec. 1st.  To-day the deaths began.  The steamer has been stopped three times in seven hours to enable me to read the Burial Service.  In the morning, a man died,--at noon, his daughter,--and in the afternoon, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>To show the crowded state of the steamer and the impossibility of separating the sick and dying from the well, I will mention one fact.  There was but one saloon, out of which the state-rooms opened (except the few on deck), and where we were obliged to take our meals.  On the cushions of this saloon, during the last few days, two ladies, a mother and daughter, have been dying of the black vomit, in full sight of our dinner table.  The mother died as we entered Aspinwall, and the daughter, it was known, could not survive till night.</P>
062.sgm:<P>This night many of the passengers passed on deck, rather than risk the pestilential air of the cabin.</P>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday</HI>
062.sgm:, Dec. 2nd.  Near Aspinwall; and well for us it is so.  A few days' longer crowding together, would have infected half our passengers.  We heard another death reported early in the morning, and with great thankfulness took our last breakfast on this vessel.  But never can we forget that Capt. Gray has done everything in the power of man under these difficult circumstances.  He has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>II.<LB>We came in sight of Aspinwall at about nine o'clock.  It is my third visit to it, yet there seems but little improvement.  A few wooden hotels, and shops whose only harvest is reaped from the steamer passengers, are the abodes of those who choose to live on this pestiferous spot.  The palm trees wave above it and around  s all the luxuriance of tropical vegetation.  Two miles from shore, the U. S. steam frigate, <HI REND="italics">Wabash</HI>
062.sgm:<P>We landed at ten o'clock, and as the train did not leave till three P. M., remained at one of the hotels.  There are but few Americans here, the inhabitants being principally Mexicans or natives.  The sick were now selected from the passengers, and left behind in a hospital belonging to the Company.</P>
062.sgm:<P>It was a pleasant afternoon, unusually cool, when we set off for Panama.  I made the journey four years since, by boat, up Chagres River for one day, and then another day from Cruces on mules, through the mountain passes.  Now, by the railroad, the fifty-five miles are travelled over in about four hours.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Just beyond Aspinwall, is the cottage in which John L. Stephens died.  After all his experience in Egypt and the East, he yielded on this spot to the deadly malaria.  Our train went but slowly, for the heavy rains had, in some places, undermined the road; yet every moment opened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We reached Panama just before dark.  Since the massacre by the natives, two years ago, the passengers have not been permitted to enter the city.  The depot is without the walls, and we were conveyed at once to the steam-tug.  Here we were all crowded on board, while the steerage passengers were towed behind in barges; and in about an hour we reached the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
062.sgm:.  We have a magnificent steamer, three times the size of the <HI REND="italics">Star of the West</HI>
062.sgm:<P>A fortnight's voyage is before us, yet the Pacific is not liable to storms, and we dread it less than we did our thirteen days on the other side.  We have reason to be thankful for our preservation from the dangers through which we have already passed, and may well say, in the words of Dr. Wm. Croswell's Traveller's Hymn--slightly altered,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Lord, go with us, and we go<LB>Safely, through the weariest length,<LB>Travelling, if Thou will'st it so,<LB>In the greatness of Thy strength;<LB>Through the day, and through the dark,<LB>O'er the deep and pathless sea,<LB>Speed the progress of our bark,<LB>Bring us where we fain would be.<LB></HI>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>But I must curtail the rest of this narrative, particularly as I have already given, four years ago, my experience on the Pacific.  For the first week we were speeding on over a scarcely rippled sea.  With a splendid steamer and cloudless weather, there was nothing we could wish altered.  As we crossed the Gulf of Tehuantepec, and again in passing the Gulf of California, we had rough weather, as is usual, for the wind sweeps down over these bodies of water. On the morning of the 8th, we stopped at Acapulco, Mexico, to coal.  The entrance to the harbor is by a winding passage, and the inner basin is so enclosed that you are surrounded by the hills and cannot see where you were admitted.</P>
062.sgm:<P>We remained here through the day, anchored a short distance from shore, so that the passengers had an opportunity of landing.  Acapulco is a mere Mexican town, commanded by a fort, and picturesque from the palm trees which line the shore.  Amid the political troubles of Mexico it has been rather famous for its turbulence, and at the present time some two hundred of its political prisoners are confined on a desolate island a few miles from shore.  As our steamer passed in the evening we saw their fires at the water's edge.  The canoes, rowed by [t]he half naked natives, soon surrounded our steamer, bringing a plentiful supply of all tropical fruits.  I did not go on shore, as it was my third visit to this place, but our stopping formed a pleasant episode in the voyage.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The following evening we ran into Manzanillo, another Mexican port, to land some passengers.  It is an obscure town, but the place at which the steamers, on their downward trip, generally receive a large amount of silver <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>We spent two Sundays on board.  On the first, I read service and preached in the saloon.  On the second, as the Rev. Dr. Armstrong, from the Sandwich Islands, was to preach, I went forward, and held service among the steerage passengers.  A small cask was covered with the American flag, for my desk, while the congregation sat down on the deck in circles around me.  There were probably no Churchmen among them, for I saw no Prayer Book.  I therefore read a few appropriate Collects and a Lesson, and preached a short extemporaneous sermon.  In the hymns, however, which I gave out two lines at a time, they joined most heartily.</P>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday morning</HI>
062.sgm:, 16th.<LB>We crossed the bar at about four o'clock, and in an hour more were at the wharf.  Our two guns rang over the hill-sides, and shortly we were greeted with a warm welcome, and the announcement that kind friends had put our house in order and that the fires were now lighted and breakfast preparing.  So we drove home and sat down to our morning meal as quietly as if we had never left the house.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXIV.<LB>CONCLUSION.</HEAD>
062.sgm:<P>I now lay down my pen.  During the past year I have at leisure moments--sometimes with intervals of weeks--noted down my early experience in this Diocese.  When our successors read this volume, I trust it will furnish them with some interesting facts with regard to the early Church on the Pacific.</P>
062.sgm:<P>How will this narrative seem to them?  When they are worshipping in splendid buildings and members of powerful parishes, how will they regard our early struggles?  With us the contest is a hard one, as we strive in an unsettled state of society to inculcate a regard for the things which are "unseen and eternal" on a people given up to the greed of gold.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Children of the next generation! to you we bequeath this contest.  Living over our dust and inheriting the fruit of our labors, we pray you worthily to wage this warfare till you resign your weapons to others and join us in the land of spirits.</P>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">March</HI>
062.sgm:<BACK><DIV><AD><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>THE BEAUTIFUL LAND:<LB>PALESTINE,<LB>HISTORICAL, GEOGRAPHICAL AND PICTORIAL:<LB>DESCRIBED AND ILLUSTRATED AS IT WAS AND AS IT NOW IS, ALONG THE LINES OF<LB>OUR SAVIOUR'S JOURNEYS.<LB>BY<LB>JOHN FULTON, D.D., LL.D.<LB>Introduction by the Rt. Rev. HENRY C. POTTER, D.D.<LB>ILLUSTRATED BY FIFTEEN MAPS AND CHARTS, OVER THREE HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS, AND<LB>A GRAND PANORAMA OF JERUSALEM.<LB>"This handsome volume is especially designed for the large number of Bible students who never expect to visit the Holy Land.  Dr. Fulton is a learned clergyman of the Episcopal Church, who ranks high as a clear, forcible and thoughtful writer, and his record of a leisurely journey made through Palestine is well worth reading.  Many books have been written about the Holy Land, but hardly any of them are available for the uses of the ordinary student. . . . To take such a journey with a well-instructed and sympathetic cicerone, is a great privilege.  In traveling it is not enough to see; one needs also to know what to see and how to see it.  Dr. Fulton does not simply reproduce the atmosphere of the distant past so that it lives again before us, though he does that; but he relates to us in a pleasant fashion the later history of the localities whose story he tells, so that the chasm between the days of old and the present day is bridged over for the reader."-- <HI REND="italics">From the New York Tribune</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"The title of this book is a full description of its character and contents.  It is indeed a most valuable volume for the Christian student or traveler to the Holy Land.  The idea of traveling along the lines of our Lord's journeys is certainly original, and the exceeding care and pains which Dr. Fulton has taken to be accurate in his statements and thorough in every part of the work increase its value."-- <HI REND="italics">From the New York Observer</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"What a book, we think, for every Bible-teacher to be possessed of!  Certainly, at least, no Sunday-school should be without one or more library copies for the teacher's reference, to the enlightenment of his task of making all things clear to the musing and questioning minds of the young.  It is a compendium of all that is certainly known of that Beautiful Land, related in a style of rare attractiveness, and it will be found a fitting gift for pupils who have excelled in their Bible lessons and studies."--<HSEP><HI REND="italics">From the Living Church</HI>
062.sgm:<P>STYLES.<LB>1.  Handsomely bound in best silk cloth, with rich and artistic stampings in ink and gold on front cover and back.  Price, $3.75.</P>
062.sgm:<P>2.  The same style, with full gilt edges.  Price, $4.50.</P>
062.sgm:<P>3.  In half morocco binding, library style, strong and elegant.  Price, $6.00.</P>
062.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">An Agent wanted in every parish.  For terms apply to</HI>
062.sgm:<LB>THOMAS WHITTAKER, 2 AND 3 BIBLE HOUSE, NEW YORK.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>THREE IMPORTANT WORKS IN<LB>CHURCH HISTORY.<LB>I.<LB>History of the American Episcopal Church.  From the Planting of the Colonies to the End of the Civil War.  By Rev. S. D. McCONNELL, D.D.  Third Edition.  8vo, cloth, $2.00.<LB>"Among the most notable and valuable of the books that appeared during the past year--in the closing period of the book season--was, `The History of the American Episcopal Church' from the planting of the colonies to the end of the Civil War.  The author, the Rev. Dr. McConnell, is one of the most vigorous, clear-minded, progressive and valuable men enlisted in the ranks of the Protestant Episcopal clergy.  He has given us a book of rare merit and great interest, one marked feature of which is its fairness, its determination to tell the true story of the Church without desire to give her more credit than she deserves, or withhold from her any of the praise to which she is entitled. . . . Not only do the literary execution of the work and the pervasive spirit of candor and impartiality deserve peculiar commendation, but one is struck with the patient and vigilant scholarship which, in depicting the relation of the Episcopal Church to the colonial communities, has sought out the original authorities."-- <HI REND="italics">Buffalo Commercial</HI>
062.sgm:<P>II.<LB>The Church in Nova Scotia, and The Tory Clergy of the Revolution.  By Rev. ARTHUR WENTWORTH EATON, B.A.  12mo, cloth, $1.50 <HI REND="italics">net</HI>
062.sgm:.<LB>"This is a book of historical value and interest, not merely to Anglican and Episcopalian Churchmen, but to all students of early American history.  Nova Scotia ought to have a great deal of interest for Americans, for it was to that Province that thousands of New York and New England tories went at the time of the American Revolution.  As might naturally be expected these tories were nearly all staunch and devoted Anglican Churchmen, so that while on one hand their withdrawal seriously weakened the Episcopal Church in this country, it made Nova Scotia, the oldest Colonial diocese of the Church of England, the most important centre of Anglicanism on this continent.  That alone would make a chronicle of Anglicanism in Nova Scotia well worth reading even if it were not for the circumstance that it is also necessarily and inferentially a history of the society and political life of the Province.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Mr. Eaton, who is himself a Nova Scotian, already distinguished in the world of letters, has done his work well.  His study of the old archives of Nova Scotia has been thorough and painstaking.  He is not only imbued with that genuine respect for facts which distinguishes the true historian, but he is also gifted with that sympathetic imagination which is so essential for a comprehensive and lucid presentation of facts."-- <HI REND="italics">N. Y. Tribune</HI>
062.sgm:<P>III.<LB>The Constitution of the American Church: Its History and Rationale.  The Bohlen Lectures for 1890.  By Rt. Rev. WILLIAM STEVENS PERRY, D.D.  12mo, cloth, $1.50.<LB>"Bishop Perry could scarcely have rendered a more acceptable service to this generation than he has done by writing this book. . . . We wish that our Bishops and all examining chaplains would insist upon the study of this book by candidates as a necessary qualification for ordination."-- <HI REND="italics">The Standard of the Cross</HI>
062.sgm:<P>THOMAS WHITTAKER, 2 AND 3 BIBLE HOUSE, NEW YORK.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>THE CYCLOP&AElig;DIA OF<LB>NATURE TEACHINGS.<LB>WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY REV.<LB>HUGH MACMILLAN, LL.D., F.R.S.E.,<LB>AUTHOR OF "BIBLE TEACHINGS IN NATURE," ETC.<LB>8vo, Cloth Extra.  Price, $2.50.<HSEP>Just Out.<LB>One of the most characteristic features of modern culture is the attention given to the facts, moods and suggestions of "Nature."</P>
062.sgm:<P>Teachers and preachers are feeling the need for illustrations from Nature in their pulpit, platform and class work, and as the scientific knowledge and the love of Nature increase in schools and in congregations, there must be an increasing demand for illustrations taken from the spheres in which audiences are becoming daily more interested.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The Cyclop&aelig;dia of Nature Teachings is a collection of remarkable passages from the writings and utterances of the leading authors, preachers and orators, which embody suggestive or curious information concerning Nature.  Each passage contains some important or noteworthy fact or statement which may serve to illustrate religious truth or moral principles, the extracts being gleaned from the widest and most varied sources.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The passages are arranged alphabetically under subjects, and subdivided so as to elucidate the topic treated of and illustrate it in every possible way.  Thus under the head of THE AIR, we find on this subject passages are given on THE BEAUTY OF CLOUDS, THE MYSTERIES OF THE CLOUDS, CHANGES IN THE SKY, MISTS AND SUNSHINE, THE MESSAGE OF THE HEAVENS, SKY INFLUENCES, AUTUMN, SUNSHINE, PLANTS, THE ATMOSPHERE, etc., etc.</P>
062.sgm:<P>That the Cyclop&aelig;dia is a work of true value and reliable information will be seen by the names of the following authors, from whose writings, among many others, some of the extracts are taken, viz., RUSKIN, JEFFERIES, MACLAREN, McCOOK, HUGH MACMILLAN, BEECHER, SMILEY, WILSON, PULSFORD, GUTHRIE, FROUDE, LYTTON, ROBERTSON, ARTHUR, ARNOT, HERSCHEL, PROCTER, FABER, TAYLOR, DAWSON, HELPS, EMERSON, DICKENS, AGASSIZ, PARKER, CONDER, CHALMERS, BALDWIN, BROWN, CUVIER, RICHTER, G&OElig;THE, etc.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The volume forms a most valuable work of reference, and by its orderly arrangement puts its wealth of information and suggestion at the disposition of the student or teacher; but the varied character of the selections, the freshness of the subjects treated, and the literary grace of many of the paragraphs will also make the work welcome to general readers.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The Cyclop&aelig;dia of Nature Teachings is furnished with a very copious index of subjects, and also one of Bible texts.</P>
062.sgm:<P>NEW YORK: THOMAS WHITTAKER, 2 AND 3 BIBLE HOUSE.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>PROF. T. K. CHEYNE'S WORKS.<LB>The Origin and Religious Contents of the Psalter, in the Light of Old Testament Criticism and the History of Religions.  With an Introduction and Appendixes.  Eight Lectures Preached before the University of Oxford in the Year 1889.  8vo, cloth, $4.00.<LB>"The Oriel Professor at Oxford (Dr. Cheyne) is an earnest, conscientious and industrious critic.  His Bampton Lectures are the outcome of twenty years' study and research.  He asks to be considered not a `fledgeling,' but a critic of fully adequate experience, not a `Germanizer,' but an honest English worker in Biblical exegesis.  He settles on the principles of the `higher criticism' numerous disputed questions in regard to the Book of Psalms."-- <HI REND="italics">N. Y. Times</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The Book of Psalms; or, the Praises of Israel.  A new Translation, with Commentary.  8vo, cloth, $3.00.<LB>"We not only welcome this volume by the Canon of Rochester as a delight to scholars, but also commend it to all devout laymen and students who, believing the Bible to be the Word of God, may yet have to complain of having it expounded, and the Gospel preached, in seventeenth century phrase, and with the traditionalist's fear of the dreadful nineteenth century knowledge that is so rapidly cracking the rind of authorized opinions."-- <HI REND="italics">The Critic</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The Prophecies of Isaiah.  A new Translation, with Commentary and Appendixes.  Revised.  Two volumes in one.  8vo, cloth, $4.00.<LB>"Mr. Cheyne's work is in many respects one of the most noteworthy of our day. . . He has been a devout and careful student of Isaiah for some twenty years past."-- <HI REND="italics">N. Y. Times</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"We rejoice that a Commentary which must be marked `indispensable,' is thus put within the reach of a larger number of those who love the great prophet."-- <HI REND="italics">Andover Review</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"The qualities of Mr. Cheyne's Commentary would make it a good book in any language, or almost in any condition of Biblical learning.  It is perspicuous without being superficial, and terse without the omission of anything of importance."-- <HI REND="italics">Academy</HI>
062.sgm:<P>Job and Solomon; or, the Wisdom of the Old Testament.  8vo, cloth, $2.50.<LB>"This is certainly one of the most fascinating and delightfully readable works in Biblical criticism that has come under our eye for a long time.  If Robertson Smith or Welhausen had a style like that of Cheyne the rapidly advancing science (or art) of Biblical criticism would soon be amazingly popular."-- <HI REND="italics">The Critic</HI>
062.sgm:<P>The Hallowing of Criticism.  Nine Sermons on Elijah, Preached in Rochester Cathedral.  12mo, cloth, red edge, $2.00.<LB>THOMAS WHITTAKER, Publisher,<LB>2 and 3 Bible House, New York.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>THE RIGHT ROAD.<LB>A Hand-Book for Parents and Teachers.<LB>BY THE<LB>REV. JOHN W. KRAMER.<LB><HI REND="italics">12mo, cloth binding,<HSEP>Price, $1.25.</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"There is not a dull page in it.  Even the bad boy who dislikes moral lectures will like pleasant chats: he will take the moral pills for the sake of their sugar coating, if for nothing else.  Parents will find this excellent book helpful in getting their children on the right road and keeping them there."-- <HI REND="italics">The Home Journal</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"`The Right Road' presents John W. Kramer's plan of giving instruction to children, and of arousing their personal interest in the principles and practice of Christian morality.  By means of simply worded observations, and a great variety of short stories, he undertakes to teach a child something about personal responsibility, right and duty.  Under duty, instruction and illustrations are given concerning duties to one's self--such as cleanliness, temperance, truthfulness, courage, self-control, order, thrift, culture and purity, duties to others--honor of parents, patriotism, honesty, justice, mercy, philanthropy, courtesy, gratitude and kindness to animals, duties to God--embracing reverence, worship and service."-- <HI REND="italics">The Interior</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"As a treatise on practical ethics the book has decided merits.  It treats of nearly all aspects of morality, setting forth the nature and the obligation of the various kinds of duty in a clear and simple style and in a manner likely to interest the young.  The different virtues and vices are illustrated by numerous examples in the story form, some of them historical, other fictitious, and many of them are fitted not only to illustrate the habits of good conduct, but to inspire the reader with a love for them.  The book is more manly than such books usually are, the strong and positive virtues being given the importance that justly belongs to them.  The last section of the book and duty to God is excellent, and is by no means uncalled for in times like these."-- <HI REND="italics">Critic</HI>
062.sgm:<P>THOMAS WHITTAKER, 2 AND 3 BIBLE HOUSE, NEW YORK.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>AUBREY L. MOORE'S WRITINGS.<LB>"With preachers like Phillips Brooks and M. Bersier the late Rev. Aubrey L. Moore was not unworthy to take rank, though his strength lay, perhaps, in delicacy of spiritual perception rather than in the more ordinary and popular forms of pulpit eloquence."-- <HI REND="italics">The London Times</HI>
062.sgm:<P>I.<LB>Sermons Preached in the Chapel Royal, Whitehall.  By the late Rev. AUBREY L. MOORE.  12mo, cloth, $1.50.<LB><HI REND="italics">Just Out</HI>
062.sgm:<P>II.<LB>The Message of the Gospel.  By the late Rev. AUBREY L. MOORE.  12mo, cloth, 75 cents.<LB>This volume contains three addresses on the Message of the Gospel; two on Vocation; and six sermons before the University of Oxford on the following topics: "The Veil of Moses," "The God of Philosophy and the God of Religion," "The Claim to Authority," "The Power of Christ on Moral Life," "The Presence of God in the Christian and the Church," "Decision for God."<LB>"In bulk this is a small book, but like a jewel casket, small itself, its contents are of great price."-- <HI REND="italics">The Churchman</HI>
062.sgm:<P>III.<LB>Some Aspects of Sin: Three Courses of Lent Sermons.  By the late Rev. AUBREY L. MOORE.  12mo, cloth, 75 cents.</P>
062.sgm:<P>IV.<LB>Science and the Faith.  Essays of Apologetic Subjects.  With an Introduction.  Second Edition.  12mo, cloth, $1.50.</P>
062.sgm:<P>THOMAS WHITTAKER, Publisher,<LB>2 and 3 Bible House, New York.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>CANON FARRAR'S SERMONS.<LB>I.<LB>EVERY-DAY CHRISTIAN LIFE;<LB>Or, Sermons by the Way.<LB>By FREDERICK W. FARRAR, D.D.  12mo, cloth, $1.25.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"These sermons by Canon Farrar are the ordinary discourses of a parish priest to a customary congregation.  They are upon subjects of every-day life.  There is no wide-ranging speculation among them; nothing to gratify the seeker after suggested heresies, or at least the novelties of modern rationalism.  But they are very delightful sermons to read--full of tender thought and happy suggestion, and written in a style which when the English clergy do attain it is one of the happiest known to the pulpit.  As the other extreme of English preaching, the dead-and-alive manner of mere perfunctory talk is hateful to the last degree, so is this, its opposite, peculiarly pleasant."-- <HI REND="italics">The Churchman</HI>
062.sgm:<P>II.<LB>TRUTHS TO LIVE BY:<LB>A Companion to "Every-Day Christian Life."<LB>By the same author.  12mo, cloth, $1.25.<LB>"This is a volume of practical sermons written in a style free from mere technical language.  The discourses are just what Dr. Farrar claims them to be--simple pastoral sermons.  They deal mainly with doctrinal and fundamental subjects as they represent an attempt "to make clear some of the most essential truth of Christian faith."-- <HI REND="italics">The Observer</HI>
062.sgm:<P>CONTEMPORARY PULPIT LIBRARY.<LB>New Sermons by the leading Anglican Preachers.  Square 12mo, cloth, gilt top, $1.00 each.<LB>No. 1.  FIFTEEN SERMONS.  By CANON LIDDON.</P>
062.sgm:<P>No. 2.  SIXTEEN SERMONS.  By BISHOP MAGEE.</P>
062.sgm:<P>No. 3.  TWENTY SERMONS.  By ARCHDEACON FARRAR.</P>
062.sgm:<P>No. 4.  FOURTEEN SERMONS.  By CANON LIDDON.</P>
062.sgm:<P>No. 5.  FIFTEEN SERMONS.  By BISHOP LIGHTFOOT</P>
062.sgm:<P>THOMAS WHITTAKER,<LB>2 AND 3 BIBLE HOUSE, NEW YORK.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>THE DIVINE LITURGY.<LB>Being the order for Holy Communion historically, doctrinally, and devotionally set forth in fifty portions.  By the Rev. HERBERT MORTIMER LUCKOCK, D.D., Canon of Ely.  414 pp.  12mo, cloth, $2.00.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"We can heartily recommend this as one of the best things of the kind yet published for the general reader.  It treats of the history of all parts of the service, rubrics, the text itself, technical and liturgical terms and expressions, and also the ritual acts in rendering the service, giving brief expositions of the meaning and teaching, with practical suggestions of a devotional character.  The author's position is that of a positive but conservative Churchman, in the best sense Catholic.  His style is clear and simple."-- <HI REND="italics">Pacific Churchman</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"We gladly give our recommendation of "The Divine Liturgy" in its historical aspect, and add that we can think of nothing equal to it in trustworthiness and wide array of facts."-- <HI REND="italics">The Christian Union</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"The Catholic mindedness, historical accuracy, and wise caution, of Canon Luckock is nowhere more apparent than in this important work.  It will prove a most valuable help to the parochial clergy in the regular instruction of communicant classes, a design which he had in view in its preparation.  The book is in fifty portions, so that in the case of monthly instruction, it would extend as a manual of aid for a period of four years."-- <HI REND="italics">Living Church</HI>
062.sgm:<P>BY THE SAME AUTHOR.<LB>AFTER DEATH.  An Examination of the Testimony of the Primitive Times respecting the state of the Faithful Departed and their Relationship to the Living.  Fifth edition, revised.  12mo, cloth.  $1.50.</P>
062.sgm:<P>STUDIES IN THE HISTORY OF THE PRAYER BOOK.  With Appendices.  Second edition.  12mo, cloth, $1.50.</P>
062.sgm:<P>FOOTPRINTS OF THE SON OF MAN, as traced by St. Mark.  Being eighty portions for private study, family reading and instruction in Church.  With an Introduction by the Lord Bishop of Ely.  New and cheaper edition, complete in one volume.  12mo, cloth, $1.75.</P>
062.sgm:<P>THE BISHOPS IN THE TOWER.  A Record of Stirring Events affecting the Church and Non-conformists from the Restoration to the Rebellion.  12mo, cloth, $1.50.</P>
062.sgm:<P>THOMAS WHITTAKER,<LB>2 AND 3 BIBLE HOUSE, NEW YORK.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>CANON ROW'S NEW BOOK.<LB>CHRISTIAN THEISM.<LB>A Brief and Popular Survey of the Evidences upon which it rests, and the Objections urged against it considered and refuted.  By C. A. Row, M.A.  Small 8vo, cloth, $1.75.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"Prebendary Row has attained high repute by his previous publications, but we doubt if he has written anything more likely to be useful than the present volume, in which he sets forth in a popular form and with clearness and force of style the chief reasons on which Christian theistic belief is founded.  It is avowedly a popular argument, adapted to the needs of the multitude of people who justly complain that many excellent treatises dealing with the subject are `over their heads.'  It also claims to be a comprehensive survey of the whole question as it is now debated, and grapples with current difficulties and objections which, if they do not subvert the faith of many, do nevertheless prevail with some, and cause widespread disquiet and perplexity."-- <HI REND="italics">The Standard of the Cross</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"Among all the works of Prebendary Row in the general line of Apologetics of Christian belief, and they are many, this will be the most prominent in the list, the most thoroughly and lastingly useful."-- <HI REND="italics">The Living Church</HI>
062.sgm:<P>BY THE SAME AUTHOR.<LB>REASONS FOR BELIEVING IN CHRISTIANITY.  Addressed to busy people. 12mo, cloth, gilt top, 75 cents.</P>
062.sgm:<P>CHRISTIAN EVIDENCE VIEWED IN RELATION TO MODERN THOUGHT.  Bampton Lectures for 1877.  Fourth Edition.  8vo, cloth, $3.75.</P>
062.sgm:<P>A MANUAL OF CHRISTIAN EVIDENCES.  16mo, cloth, 75 cents.</P>
062.sgm:<P>FUTURE RETRIBUTION, VIEWED IN THE LIGHT OF REASON AND REVELATION.  8vo, cloth, $2.50.</P>
062.sgm:<P>THOMAS WHITTAKER,<LB>2 AND 3 BIBLE HOUSE, NEW YORK.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>REASON AND AUTHORITY<LB>IN RELIGION.<LB>BY J. MACBRIDE STERRETT, D.D., Professor of Ethics and Apologetics in Seabury Divinity School.  Author of "Studies in Hegel's Philosophy of Religion."  12mo, cloth, $1.00.</P>
062.sgm:<P>PRESS NOTICES:<LB>"A philosophical, keen and clever mind has given us in brief form, one of the most satisfactory studies upon these important topics that we ever tried."-- <HI REND="italics">The Living Church</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"A thoughtful and prudent balancing of the arguments and considerations that are apt to be uppermost in the speculations of open and inquiring minds in these times."-- <HI REND="italics">The Independent</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"I have never seen so much thought put into so narrow limits or so clearly and concisely stated."-- <HI REND="italics">Rev. E. A. Warriner</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"This book is a vigorous essay on the burning question regarding the seat of authority in religion.  It is marked throughout by candor, vigor and incisiveness of thought and will repay a careful reading."-- <HI REND="italics">The New Englander and Yale Review</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"The author of this volume has already become favorable known to all thinkers upon such themes by his `Studies in Hegel's Philosophy of Religion.'  His honesty and fairness, his clearness of statement, and the vigor of his style unite to form a model in this method of discussion.  It is a book compelling close thought, and filled with stimulating, healthful, interesting work for good thinkers or those who would become such."-- <HI REND="italics">Public Opinion</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"He writes as a scholar and a philosopher, and his discussion in the present work is timely and fitted to restrain adventurous minds from dangerous extremes."-- <HI REND="italics">The Interior</HI>
062.sgm:<P>THOMAS WHITTAKER,<LB>PUBLISHER,<LB>2 &amp; 3 BIBLE HOUSE, NEW YORK.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>CHRIST IN THE NEW<LB>TESTAMENT.<LB>By THOMAS A. TIDBALL, D.D., Rector of St. Paul's Church, Camden, N. J.  With an Introduction by S. D. MCCONNELL, D.D.  12mo, cloth, $1.25.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"We notice on nearly every page the extensive reading of its author and the judicial mind, which not only attempts but proves the authenticity of the New Testament Books and their drift and purpose.  The first lecture is to us the most striking; but all show learning and the Christian spirit.  We know of no work which in like compass introduces so well the various books of the New Testament."-- <HI REND="italics">The Southern Churchman</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"The volume is scholarly, reverent, gracefully written, spiritual in tone; a really good book that makes one better as it clears his mind and lifts his heart."-- <HI REND="italics">Every Thursday</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"Dr. Tidball's style is felicitous for the lecture room, exact in expression, careful in the right presentation and due rounding of his facts, and agreeably free from any pedantries of learning."-- <HI REND="italics">Living Church</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"It can stand on its own merits as a popular presentation of a subject of perennial freshness."-- <HI REND="italics">The Critic</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"While there is little that is directly polemic in these pages, this purpose is largely attained, and that in the best possible manner.  To each of the writers of the New Testament the question is virtually addressed, `What think ye of Christ?' and the answer is of great apologetic value.  Through all the obvious differences of style and treatment can be seen the one Lord and Saviour, and these apparent variations serve only to give a clearer outline of the life and work of the Great Exemplar."-- <HI REND="italics">Churchman</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"The introductory chapter to this volume, consisting of thirty pages, is in substance very similar to the `Introduction to the New Testament' as commonly found in good commentaries.  It treats of the origin and formation of the several books of their authors, of their general scope, and of recent criticism.  It also gives an excellent definition of inspiration--the manner and measure of it.  Then follow nine other chapters in which the author gives a study of the whole New Testament, in groups of books--the Synoptic Gospels, St. John's Gospel, The Acts, the Pauline Epistles, etc., the main object being to bring out their testimony to Christ as the Son of God and Saviour of the World."-- <HI REND="italics">Pacific Churchman</HI>
062.sgm:<P>THOMAS WHITTAKER,<LB>PUBLISHER,<LB><HI REND="italics">2 &amp; 3 BIBLE HOUSE HOUSE,<HSEP>NEW YORK</HI>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>THE PRAYER=BOOK REASON WHY.<LB>A Book of Questions and Answers on the Doctrines, Usages, and History of the Church as suggested by the Liturgy.  For Parochial and Sunday-school uses.  By Rev. NELSON R. BOSS, M.A.  16mo, paper covers, 20 cents, net.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The design of this book is three-fold.  (1). To familiarize the reader with the Doctrines, History and Ritual of the Church, as they are suggested by the Offices; (2). To bring out clearly and concisely those principles of Historic Christianity which distinguish the Episcopal Church from all other religious bodies; (3). To furnish clear and concise answers to the popular objections so commonly raised against the Church by those not familiar with her ways.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Bishop Seymour says:<LB>Whoever reads "The Prayer-Book Reason Why" will find it a treasury of useful information.  I welcome it heartily.  I believe its publication will be eminently useful and beneficial.  It covers a great deal of ground and instructs as it goes forward.</P>
062.sgm:<P>The Rev. Dr. Samuel Buel, Emeritus Professor of Systematic Divinity in the General Theological Seminary, says:<LB>The book is a desideratum which I wonder has not been disclosed before.  That it is eminently fitted to do great good I cannot doubt, and that it will be a most useful book in the hands of the pastors of the Church I firmly believe.  Throughout the work the Church herself has spoken for the benefit of her children.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Bishop Littlejohn says:<LB>To thousands of adult members of the Church, if the book could only be placed in their hands, it would be a valuable help to clear and sound thinking on the very important subjects of which it treats.</P>
062.sgm:<P>Mr. Whittaker, the Publisher, says:<LB>In almost every case where I send out a sample copy of "The Prayer-Book Reason Why," more copies are immediately ordered.</P>
062.sgm:<P>PUBLISHED BY<LB>THOS. WHITTAKER, 2 and 3 BIBLE HOUSE NEW YORK,<LB>And For Sale by all Church Booksellers.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>THE CHIEF THINGS;<LB>OR, CHURCH DOCTRINE FOR THE PEOPLE.<LB>By REV. A. W. SNYDER.<LB>12 <HI REND="italics">mo, Cloth binding</HI>
062.sgm:, $1.00.<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Paper covers</HI>
062.sgm:. 50 <HI REND="italics">Cents</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"It is just what we want."-- <HI REND="italics">Bishop Whitehead</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"It is an indispensable aid in parish work."-- <HI REND="italics">Rev. C. W. Leffingwell, D.D</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"The author has gathered into a volume twenty-six essays on just those topics and questions pertaining to Church faith and worship, on which a multitude of people, both without and within our congregations, need to be instructed.  The statements are always clear, concise, direct, and persuasive.  There is nothing extravagant, overwrought, fantastic, or bitter.  Many of the essays would make excellent chapters for lay reading."-- <HI REND="italics">Rt. Rev. F. D. Huntington, D.D</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"It does not deal with the one thing needful in order to be saved, but with a considerable number of things that is necessary to believe, in order to be sound.  It is written in a stirring, off-hand way, and the person who reads it carefully, and uses it freely, will be a perpetual thorn in the flesh of all sectarian associates, and generally regarded by disinterested parties as decidedly a tough nut to crack.  The book is a beautiful specimen of typographical art."-- <HI REND="italics">Standard of the Cross</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"It enunciates the `Chief Things' so clearly that the wayfaring man, though a fool, can hardly mistake the meaning.  The thoughts are so clear and clean cut, that the book must be helpful to many seekers after truth and the Church."-- <HI REND="italics">Rt. Rev. W. A. Leonard, D.D</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"The Church throughout this land of ours is badly in need of just such teaching as this book contains."-- <HI REND="italics">Rt. Rev. E. G. Weed, D.D</HI>
062.sgm:<P>*** <HI REND="italics">Copies sent by mail, postage free, on receipt of price</HI>
062.sgm:.<LB>THOMAS WHITTAKER,<LB>2 and 3 Bible House,<HSEP>NEW YORK.</P>
062.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
062.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
062.sgm:<P>Thoughts on Life, Death<LB>and Immortality.<LB>Selected from the unpublished writings of the late Samuel Smith Harris, Bishop of Michigan.  By CHARLOTTE WOOD SLOCUM.  12mo, cloth, gilt edges, $1; cloth plain, 75 cents.</P>
062.sgm:<P>"These thoughts of Bishop Harris are simply admirable."-- <HI REND="italics">Southern Churchman</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"The work of selection has been performed by Charlotte Wood Slocum, who knew Bishop Harris intimately, and was fully aware of his extreme sensibility to print.  She has done her task with taste and judgment, and both religion and literature are enriched by her efforts."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Post</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"There is in these thoughts the originality which comes from personal and independent experience, there is the fiery glow that faith and hope alone minister, there i[s] the simplicity that sheer earnestness alone finds utterance in."-- <HI REND="italics">The Churchman</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"A collection of solid nuggets and polished gems."-- <HI REND="italics">The Independent</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"They show the writer had profited by experience in the school of life, and the practical sagacity lends additional value to the brief discourses, which have a delightfully unpremeditated air.  Evidently the Bishop understood how far every man may make his own world.  It is rather singular that these passages do not appear to suffer from loss of context, but the lack of elaboration only serves to throw the thought into higher relief.  These are tonic utterances, and show a manly spirit; the remarks on responsibility and the issues of life may be taken as typical extracts."-- <HI REND="italics">Detroit Free Press</HI>
062.sgm:<P>"This little volume of extracts furnishes new proofs of the high ideals cherished by Dr. Harris, of his catholicity of spirit, and of his loyalty to Christ's gospel."-- <HI REND="italics">The Interior</HI>
062.sgm:<P>THOMAS WHITTAKER,<LB>PUBLISHER,<LB>2 &amp; 3 BIBLE HOUSE,<HSEP>NEW YORK.</P>
063.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-063</TITLE>
063.sgm:<TITLE>California life illustrated.  By William Taylor, of the California Conference: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
063.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
063.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
063.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
063.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
063.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
063.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
063.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-750</LCCN>
063.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
063.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
063.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<LB><illus entity="a063-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ENTRANCE TO THE GOLDEN GATE.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA LIFE<LB>ILLUSTRATED.</P>
063.sgm:<P>BY WILLIAM TAYLOR,<LB>OF THE CALIFORNIA CONFERENCE,<LB>AUTHOR OF "SEVEN YEARS' STREET PREACHING IN SAN<LB>FRANCISCO" AND "ADDRESS TO YOUNG AMERICA."</P>
063.sgm:<P>When a traveler returneth home, let him not leave the countries where he<LB>hath traveled altogether behind him.--LORD BACON.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Then shalt thou lay up gold as dust, and the gold of Ophir as the stones of<LB>the brooks.--JOB xxii, 24.</P>
063.sgm:<P>SIXTEEN ENGRAVINGS.<LB>ELEVENTH THOUSAND.</P>
063.sgm:<P>New York:<LB>PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR<LB>BY CARLTON &amp; PORTER, 200 MULBERRY-STREET.<LB>1858.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1858, by<LB>D. L. ROSS,<LB>in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of<LB>New-York.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>MISSIONARY LIFE.<LB>First View of California Coast--Entrance through the Golden Gate--"Let go the Anchor"--Lassoing a Bullock--Wonderful California News by Mr. M.--Prices--Wages--Gold--Gamblers--One Church and that a Jail--One Preacher and he a Gambler--First Impressions of San Francisco--The Canvas City--Vain Search for Methodists--"No such Creatures in the Place"--Bark Hebe, Captain Stetson--His Men left to the Mercy of the Patagonian Indians--Their Rescue--J. H. Merrill--"Brother Finley"--John Troubody--Father White's Family--Shanty with Blue Cover--First Sermon--First Class-Meeting--Its Peculiarities--Palmer J. Whiting, the Shepherd Boy--Our Oregon Chapel--No House for the Preacher--Captain Otis Webb, the noble Outsider--John B. Seidenstricker--His Dreams and Hardware--Collins and Cushman--Life in the Redwoods--Preacher building a House--Carpenter's Wages--Home--Rats--Garden--"Greens fifty Cents a Fork"--Chickens--Milk--Egg Currency--Cheap Cow--Hard Winter, etc<HSEP>PAGE 13<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>MISSIONARY LIFE--CONTINUED.<LB>Oregon and California Mission Conference--The Superintendent--Gambler's Donation--Preacher taken down by a Stage Actor--Captain Gelson--Church Lots out of Town--Dedication of First Methodist Episcopal Church--Rev. William H. Hatch "in the Lurch"-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:Baltimore California Chapel--Early Church Organizations, and Pioneer Missionaries--Revs. T. Dwight Hunt, O. C. Wheeler, S. Woodbridge, (Where is the Capital of California?) J. W. Douglass, S. H. Willey, Alfred Williams, J. A. Benton, Drs. Vermehr and Mines--Stranger's Friend Society--Charity Hospital--City Fathers--Sacrifice of City Property--San Francisco Bible Society--Colonel M'Kee, Indian Agent--Number of Indians in California--Their Colonization<HSEP>PAGE 52<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>MISSIONARY LIFE--CONTINUED.<LB>First Quarterly Meeting--Salary of Preacher--Rev. J. Doane--First Preaching to the Gamblers--Infant Society--Its Peculiarities--Scarcity of Females--The Pioneer Family--Alfred Love and the Grizzly Bear--Specimen Members of our First Society: John Troubody, Willet M'Cord, L. F. Budd, (who wouldn't rent his House to a Rum-seller,) Alexander Hatler, J. B. Bond, D. L. Ross, R. P. Spier, W. H. Coddington, (the Sabbath-keeping Butcher,) Robert Beeching, (the Musician who wouldn't play for thirty Dollars per Night,) Isaac Jones, (who would rather starve than set Type on Sunday)--Early Local Preachers--Exhorters--Class-leaders--Second Class organized--First Sunday-school--First Watch-meeting--Arrival of "the Methodist Company"--Their Shipwreck in the Bay--Calvin Lathrop--Wheeling Firewood--The "Darkey" who struck the Gold Lead in "Negro Hill."<HSEP>77<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>MISSIONARY LIFE--CONTINUED.<LB>First Visit to Sacramento City--Band of Elk--Dr. Grove W. Deal--Rev. Isaac Owen--Sufferings of his Family--Rev. James Corwin--Preaching in the Baltimore California Chapel--Flood of Waters--City Submerged--Chapel swept from its Foundations--Stock drowned--Liberality of Steamboat Companies--"Mules not Preachers"--Rev. Mr. Owen's Family driven by the Flood to San Francisco--"Sister Merchant"--Presiding Elder at a Washtub--The smoking Preacher who wouldn't help his Wife--J. Bennett--First Visit to San Jose&acute; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:Santa Cruz--"In the Mud"--Early Settlers of San Jose&acute;--First Itinerant Horse--His "ups and downs"--Asa Finley--Chicken for Breakfast--California Shepherd Dogs--Mountain Scenery--First Church Arbitration--First "Protracted Meeting" in Santa Cruz--Lost in the Night--Waked up the Indians--Prayed with the Gamblers--A Night with the Hunters--Return Home<HSEP>PAGE 104<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>MISSIONARY LIFE--CONTINUED.<LB>"A Screw loose" with Sister Merchant--She claims the Preacher's House--Lights and Shades of Insanity--Daniel Webster's Private Secretary in the Hospital--Insane Asylum in Stockton--Preacher's Trunk broken open in Daylight--"He fell on his Knees and begged us to kill him"--Itinerant Horse eating Hay at fifteen Cents a Pound--"Book Concern of the Pacific"--Death of Rev. Mr. Owen's Daughter--Rev. William Roberts--Death of William H. Stevens--"Daddy's dead, and I don't know what to do with him"--Dr. Deal in the Legislature--New Church--Horse-race--Shark-catching--Hospital Scenes--Clearing the Track for old Grizzly--Quarterly Meeting in Santa Cruz--"The Stranger taken in"--Arrival of Missionaries from the Methodist Episcopal Church, South--Two Methodist Organizations--J. D. Hoppe--Birthday Reflections<HSEP>132<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>SOCIAL LIFE IN CALIFORNIA.<LB>Its Nature and essential Conditions--The latter wanting--Adam's single Wretchedness--His ten thousand California Sons--Tearful Adieus--Telescope of manifest Destiny--Initiation of "Green-horns"--California Lodging-house--Bunks--Third Plague of Egypt--Blankets passed round--Rev. Mr. Trumbull and the Fleas--Ranches--Social Life "dried up"--Why?--Despondent ones--Mr. P.'s Bonnets--Men didn't want them--Hole in Captain Wooley's Pocket--Money leaked out--Shanty robbed--Dog-days--"Every Dog has his Day"--S. S. dying on the Sand-hill--H. S. in the Station-house--Substitutes for Wives, Sisters, and Daughters--The Harmonious Family-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:Social Life superseded by Excitement--Excitants--Ordinary and Extraordinary--Prices--Wages--"Big Lumps," etc.--Tippling--Gambling--Great Ventures--House of the strange Woman-- <HI REND="italics">Soire&acute;e</HI>
063.sgm: --Temple of Virtue--Sunday Amusements--The Mission--Russ's Garden--Oakland Horse-racing--Bear and Bull-fighting--Specimen of Ethics--Dueling<HSEP>PAGE 161<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>SOCIAL LIFE--CONTINUED.<LB>Sunday Traffic--Liberal Catholic--Excursions--Dog-fight--Going to Heaven by Steamboat--"The Sagamore"--Her Explosion--Horrible Tragedy--Philip Groves--Fandangoes--Circuses, Monkey Shows, etc.--Excitants extraordinary--Political Mass-meetings, etc.--Lynch Law--Ship Challenge--Captain W.'s "Persuader"--"New Diggings"--"Gold Bluffs"--Pacific Mining Company--Gold by the Ship-load--Dr. H. on "Short Allowance"--Letters from Home--Joseph Stocker--Bachelors--Written Order for a Wife--Courting by Proxy--Marriage on Sight--Disproportion of the Sexes--Great Evil--Men newly Rigged--D. O. Shattuck's Family on the Wreck of the "North America"--Arrival of Families and betrothed Ones--Disappointment and Agony--Variety of touching Scenes<HSEP>184<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>HOSPITAL REMINISCENCES.<LB>Depot of Death--Preacher begging to see his dying Brothers--The old Tar--"Pay Rooms"--"Lower Wards"--Careless Nurses--Dreadful Mortality--Prevailing Disease--"Dead Cart"--Captain Lock--Sleeping with Corpses--"Foul Play with the Dying"--Captain Welch refusing to have his Leg cut off--John Purseglove scrambling away from Death--Charity of the Church--Free-Masons--Odd-Fellows--Scurvy Patients--Medicine from the Sand-hills--Grateful Spaniard--Hopefulness and Hopelessness of Death-bed Repentance--Variety of Scenes given for Illustration--Hospital Improvements--United States Marine Hospital--Doctor M'Millen--Preaching in the Dining-room--Conversion of J. H. Perry<HSEP>217 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>EXTENT AND RESOURCES OF CALIFORNIA.<LB>Former Ideas of "Californy"--Impression of early Emigrants--Vast Desert--Adventurous Farmers--Potato Mania like Gold Fever--John had "no Idea the World was so big"--Comparative Extent of California--Agricultural Resources--Statistical Exhibit of Products in 1856--"Some Pumkins"--Three Dollar Apple--Fruit and Fruit Trees--Grapes--Live Stock--Wild Game--Fisheries--Lumber Business--Number and Cost of Saw-mills--Number and Cost of Grist-mills--Manufactories of various Kinds--Ferries and Bridges--Mineral Products: Silver, Copper, Iron, Magnetic Iron, Platinum, Chromium, Gypsum, Nickel, Antimony, Cinnabar, Bitumen, Coal, Marble, Granite, Buhr Stones, and Gold--Discovery of Gold, and aggregate Yield to the present Time--Various Modes of Mining illustrated--Number and Cost of Quartz-mills--"Rich Diggins"--Length and Cost of Canals and Ditches--"California Register"<HSEP>PAGE 247<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>LIFE AMONG THE MINERS.<LB>Industry of the Miners--Faith, Hope, Energy--"Live Yankee Company"--"Good Prospects"--Miner's Orphan Boy--Not all successful--Why?--"Packing"--"Prospecting"--Social Condition--Effect of Female Influence--Moral Condition--Not anxious to go to Heaven--Stage-coach and Elijah's Horses--How they keep Sunday--Meetings and Laws--Best Christian in the Mountains--Preaching at Long Bar--Old Captain wouldn't pray--Congregation got drunk--Their Liberality--Preacher Merchant--His back Door ajar on Sunday--His Bar--Success--Reverses--Brother H.'s Store--Wouldn't sell on Sunday--Called an old Fool--"Boys" advertised him--Made his "Pile"--Good Qualities of Miners--Liberality--Contempt for mean, little Things--The live Chicken Roaster--His Sentence--Alameda Butcher--No Riots in California as in Eastern Cities--Riot in Washington City--Murder of a Miner's Wife--Murderer hung by Judge Lynch--Hanging of Jenkins--Better Day coming--Freedom of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:Speech--Night Preaching in the Streets of Sonora and Jamestown--Opposition Line--Permanence of Mining Operations--Success of the Gospel--Improvement of Society--Fall of the Gambling Goliah--Better Observance of the Sabbath<HSEP>PAGE 277<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>CALIFORNIA AS A MISSIONARY FIELD.<LB>God's two leading Modes of Evangelizing the World--Importance of Foreign Missions--A. M. Brown--A Persecutor--Dying with Cholera in Constantinople--Picked up by a Missionary--Converted--A Preacher--Sent to the Sandwich Islands--God's grand Design in sending Heathens to the Gospel--Success of Home Missions among the Africans, Scandinavians, Germans, etc.--Representatives of all Nations in California--Effect of Yankee Civilization--John Chinaman "just same von Melican Man"--Preaching in M'Ginnis's Store--Chinese Reporter--Translation of his Notes--The Gospel preached to the Representatives of all Nations at once--Scene described in the " <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francisco</HI>
063.sgm: "--Text recorded in the Sand-bank--Keeper of the Gate to Hell--Whisky Barrel Pulpit--Great Variety of the Audience--"What's the News?"--Slighted Irishman--St. Patrick--Italian Refugees--Defense of Spanish Boy--Maltese--Manilla Men's Donation to the Preacher--The Prussian--"De Handt of Got is on me"--"De pig Snake"--"De Debil"--His Conversion--Shipped "to go and tell Mudder"--Methodist Kanakas--Obstructions--Ultitimate Triumph<HSEP>304<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>BIT OF EXPERIENCE--CONCLUSION.<LB>Seamen's "Bethel" and "Home in San Francisco"--Successes--Reverses--Book-making--Leave of Absence--J. P. Haven--Passage Money--Arrival in New-York--Funds out--Death in the Family--Publishing Book--Scarlet Fever--Small-pox--Rheumatism--Labors--Trials--Triumphs--Return to California, etc., etc.--Summary of California Life yet to be illustrated<HSEP>333</P>
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063.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>ENTRANCE TO THE GOLDEN GATE<HSEP>2<LB>SAN FRANCISCO IN 1849, FROM THE HEAD OF CLAY-STREET<HSEP>18<LB>A STREET SCENE ON A RAINY NIGHT<HSEP>46<LB>INTERIOR OF THE EL DORADO<HSEP>79<LB>SACRAMENTO CITY<HSEP>105<LB>CALIFORNIA LODGING-ROOM<HSEP>166<LB>CITY OF OAKLAND<HSEP>181<LB>CITY HALL ON FEBRUARY 22, 1851<HSEP>191<LB>THE POST-OFFICE, CORNER OF PIKE AND CLAY STREETS<HSEP>202<LB>ARRIVAL OF A STEAMSHIP<HSEP>212<LB>UNITED STATES MARINE HOSPITAL<HSEP>243<LB>NEW WORLD MARKET, CORNER OF COMMERCIAL AND LEIDSDORFF STREETS<HSEP>258<LB>SUTTER'S MILL<HSEP>266<LB>HANGING OF JENKINS ON THE PLAZA<HSEP>298<LB>CHINESE FEMALES<HSEP>312<LB>CHINESE MERCHANTS<HSEP>316</P>
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063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.<LB>MISSIONARY LIFE.</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P>ON the 21st day of September, 1849, the captain of our noble ship said: "We are now in latitude about five miles north of the Golden Gate.  Never having entered the port of San Francisco, I thought it best to run a few miles north, and feel my way down the coast till I could find the entrance."  We could at that moment distinctly hear the breakers, but were enveloped in so dense a fog that the man at the look-out could not see the length of the ship ahead.  The breeze was dying away, and to proceed on our course was very hazardous, for if we should get too far "in shore," and have no wind to enable us to "tack, and wear off," a current setting in might carry us on to the rocks.  We therefore "stood off" a while, hoping the fog would rise, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:it did not.  The breeze, however, sprang up a little, and Captain Wilson said: "We'll head on toward those breakers, and see what we can find."  That shrill command, "'Bout ship," sent a thrill of commingled hope and fear to the hearts of the entire ship's company.  There we were, in untried seas, running through a fog, which utterly darkened the field of vision in every direction, right toward the breakers, whose thunder pealed its warning notes into our ears with increasing distinctness as we advanced.  But we had unshaken confidence in the skill of our commander, and said, "Go on."  We had tried him during a long voyage round Cape Horn; had witnessed his perfect self-possession as he stood amid the wreck of our masts and rigging, which had been thrown down in tangled prostration on the deck of our noble ship by the sudden burst of a "white squall;" had seen him convert his deck into a shipyard, and make masts, yards, and rigging, and refit, without putting into port, or losing a day's sail; and again we said to our grand old captain in the fog, "Go on."  So on and on we went till, as suddenly as striking a sunken reef, we ran out of the darkness into the brightest day of California's sunshine.  The whole coast, as far as the eye could reach, was, in a moment, spread out to the rapturous gaze of one hundred passengers, who had not seen the land but once for one hundred and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>There lay the land we had longed for; over us were the brightest skies we ever had seen; around us were myriads of ducks and pelicans, and other fowls of the sea in vast variety.  Beneath us were several whales spouting and playing about our ship, often coming within thirty feet of us.  Some of the passengers discharged their revolvers at them without any apparent effect.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Thus entertained we sailed down the coast, ran without a pilot through the Golden Gate,<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
063.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">See Frontispiece.</NOTE>
063.sgm:<P>During our voyage of five months and three days we heard no tidings from California, except at Valparaiso.  There we were informed by "The latest news from San Francisco," that lawless anarchy reigned, that there was no security for life or property, and that the few families who had the bad fortune to go to California had been obliged to leave, not excepting even the family of the territorial governor.  Such news reminded me of the sayings of some of my friends, who had charged me with cruelty for taking my family to that "barbarous land."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Under these circumstances we were all very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>"Yes," said he, "we have one preacher, but preaching won't pay here, so he quit preaching and went to gambling.  There is but one church in town, and that has been converted into a jail."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Some one told him that I was a minister, and had the frame of a church aboard.  He advised by all means to sell the church, assuring me that I could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<illus entity="a063-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO IN 1849, FROM THE HEAD OF CLAY-STREET.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>When we reached the summit of the hill above Clark's Point, we stopped and took a view of the city of tents.  Not a brick house in the place, and but few wooden ones, and not a wharf or pier in the harbor.  But for a few old adobe houses, it would have been easy to imagine that the whole city was pitched the evening before for the accommodation of a vast caravan for the night; for the city now contained a population of about twenty thousand, and I felt oppressed with the fear that under the influence of the gold attraction of the mountains, those tents might all be struck some morning, and the city suddenly leave its moorings for parts unknown.  But my business ashore was to see whether I could find any lovers of Jesus, and, especially, any bearing the name of Methodist, who could tell me how the land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:lay, and of the whereabouts of my fellow-missionary, Rev.  Isaac Owen, who had started with his family "over the plains" before I sailed from Baltimore, and whom I expected to find on my arrival.  I was introduced to the business firms of Dewitt &amp; Harrison, Bingham, Reynolds, &amp; Co., and Finley &amp; Co., and spoke to many other persons; and everywhere I went made diligent inquiry whether or not there were any Methodists in the city? but everywhere learned that no such creatures lived in the place, or if they did, they had neither seen nor heard of them.  After prosecuting my fruitless Methodist hunt till noonday, I fell in with Captain Stetson, master of the bark Hebe, from Baltimore, and accepted his invitation to dine with him aboard his vessel.  I had seen his passengers as they embarked in Baltimore for the "land of gold," and saw him set sail on his California voyage, and listened now with mournful interest to the captain's narrative of his eventful and in some respects disastrous voyage.  In attempting to pass through the Straits of Magellan he had been obliged to cast anchor, and await a favorable wind to enable him to go through the Straits.  While there, some of his passengers concluded to go ashore.  I believe there were seven of them who had taken their guns to have a little pleasure on the frozen shores of Patagonia.  But during their absence a furious gale arose, which swept the bark from her moorings.  She dragged her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>All the captain's earnest efforts to get back to his lost men proved ineffectual.  Having no anchors left, he could not make a near approach to the land, in that stormy region, so he was under the painful necessity of leaving his adventurous sportsmen to the rigors of a Cape Horn winter, and to the tender mercies of the Patagonian Indians, considered the most merciless of their kind.  Happily, however, for the poor fellows, after enduring great sufferings from cold, hunger, and Indian barbarity, they finally escaped in a vessel that was passing through the Straits.</P>
063.sgm:<P>At Valparaiso the captain supplied his bark with anchors.  While there he became acquainted with Rev. Dr. Vermehr, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
063.sgm:<P>After dinner I again went ashore, and renewed my Methodist search.  Hearing some one speak of Merrill's Hotel, I was reminded of a published letter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Finding Mr. Merrill, I ascertained sure enough that he was the man referred to by Brother Roberts.  He said he was not a Methodist himself, but he knew of a number of them in the city; "and yonder," said he, "is their new church," pointing to an uncovered frame on a neighboring hill.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"There is a Methodist family," continued he, "living down there in that adobe house; and Mr. Finley, the head of the family, is sick, and I have no doubt would be glad to see you."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I will be pleased to call on them," said I.</P>
063.sgm:<P>So Mr. Merrill went with me, and introduced me to Brother and Sister Finley.  I was delighted that I had found at least one good Methodist family in California, and talked very freely with Brother and Sister Finley about the interests of our common Methodism on the Pacific coast, and asked them many questions.  I then had a good season of prayer at the bedside of Brother Finley; after which they frankly informed me that I was mistaken in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>I covered my disappointment as well as I could, but felt glad that I had made their acquaintance, for I had come to the conclusion that they were a kind and good family, whatever they might be called; an opinion I have never changed during a subsequent acquaintance of seven years.</P>
063.sgm:<P>As I was taking my leave of these my <HI REND="italics">first Methodist</HI>
063.sgm: acquaintances, I was met at the door by a plain-looking man, five feet eight, and was introduced to him as Brother John Troubody.  "He is a Methodist," said Sister Finley with a smile; and such I found him to be, a <HI REND="italics">truebody</HI>
063.sgm: in every respect, true as a personal friend, and true to the interests of the Church.  He introduced me to Rev. O. C. Wheeler, the Baptist minister of the city, who invited me to fill his pulpit the next day at 11 A. M. Brother Troubody then introduced me to Brother Asa White's family.  Brother White was a local preacher from Illinois, more recently from Oregon.  His sons and daughters, of whom he had a large family, were sociable and kind, and were all, except two small boys, members of the Church.  They lived in the woods, in Washington-street, near Powell, in the neighborhood of where our chapel was being built.  Their habitation was a small rough board house, one story high, covered with blue cotton cloth.  It was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Brother Roberts organized a small class in San Francisco in 1847, on his way to Oregon.  The class consisted of Alexander Hatler and wife, Aquila Glover and wife, and three or four others.  Brother Glover was appointed the leader, but being a timid man, he never led the class after Brother Roberts left, and no class-meetings were held there, as Brother Hatler and others informed me, till the spring of 1849, when Brother White arrived from Oregon.  He settled his family first in a blue tent, in the woods, near the corner of Jackson and Mason streets.  Into this tent the scattered sheep were immediately gathered, and regular class-meetings were held from that time.  Elihu Anthony, a local preacher, who lived a short time in the city, and then settled in Santa Cruz, assisted in these meetings, but Brother White was the responsible leader.  The class numbered, upon my arrival, about twenty persons, and the traveling Methodist adventurers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>At Brother White's I received a letter from Brother Roberts, informing me that I was appointed to San Francisco, and that my fellow-missionary, Brother Owen, was "appointed to Sacramento City and Stockton."  Altogether that was to me an afternoon of thrilling interest, and contrasted hopefully with the unfruitful efforts of my forenoon adventure.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I returned to our ship in the evening with a full budget of news for the entertainment of my waiting family.  Oceana, our beautiful little missionary girl, born on the South Atlantic, off "Rio de la Plata," in the region of pamperos and storms, was now about three months old.  Native country she had none; the sea had been her home, the land she had never yet seen.  Her mother, nearly exhausted by the monotonous wear and tear of sea life, and the wasting effects of chronic diarrhea, was hardly able to walk ashore, but the idea of getting off ship, and of finding a resting-place on the land, was so exhilarating, that the next morning, Sunday, September 23d, she accompanied me to Mr. Wheeler's church, on Washington-street where I preached on the divinity of Jesus, from the text, "What think ye of Christ?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>There was profound attention and good order <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>"I don't believe it!  I don't believe it!"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Wait, my old friend," said I, "till I get through, and let us take it one at a time."</P>
063.sgm:<P>But he continued to mutter to those about him, till Mr. Wheeler arose and commanded him to hush instantly or leave the house!  He got up abruptly, and walked out, and I proceeded.</P>
063.sgm:<P>That occasion was to me, and I believe to many, a "season of refreshing from the presence of the Lord."  We dined with Brother Troubody, who then lived in a small house on Washinton-street.  He soon afterward built the first brick dwelling in the city, on the corner of Washington and Powell streets; a four-story house, about twenty-six by fifty feet, in which he still lives.</P>
063.sgm:<P>At three P.M. we attended class-meeting in the "shanty with the blue cover."  The place was full of men, and many stood outside the door.  Their experiences were characterized by originality, freshness, and thrilling interest.  Some had "crossed the plains;" others were just from a voyage round Cape Horn; some had, on their passage across the Isthmus, seen scores of their friends swept away by the malignant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>All had loved ones far away, who had been praying for them.  Their prayers had been answered; but their friends did not dream that they, in California, were in a Methodist class-meeting.  They thought that California was but another name for Pandemonium; that nothing could be done there without the consent of the god of the country, alias, the devil; and that he never would allow a Methodist class-meeting to be held there.  Indeed they could hardly believe the testimony of their own senses, and realize that in California they were then enjoying an old-fashioned class-meeting.  I will note an experience or two as a specimen.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Palmer, from New-York, said: "I used to be happy in God, but I backslid.  When I departed from the Lord I got into trouble, and the further I went from him the more my troubles increased.  Everything seemed to go ill with me, so I made up my mind to leave New-York and make a voyage round Cape Horn to California, and thus get rid of my troubles.  But I had been out to sea but a few days when I found, to my sorrow, that I had brought all my troubles with me, and left all my comforts behind.  My health was bad, my head and heart <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>The old man, with repeated exclamations of "Glory to God!" took his seat and wept aloud.  They were tears of joy and gladness.</P>
063.sgm:<P>After leading the class inside the "shanty," I led the outsiders, among whom I found James Whiting, a native of Buenos Ayres, South America, who had been converted to God through the instrumentality of our missionary there, Rev. D. D. Lore.  James told us a simple, sensible, touching story of his life as a shepherd boy in orphanage.  He was brought up with the sheep, lived among them, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>That was a class-meeting never to be forgotten.  The rustic appearance of the men, and the pointed, lively impression of their narratives on my mind, are in my memory like a favorite old picture, to which the successive roll of years adds but increasing interest.</P>
063.sgm:<P>We spent the following week in learning California prices and modes of life, and in trying to secure a house in which to live.  Captain Wilson kindly invited <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>"We sell nothing by measure here," replied he, "for man or beast.  Everything is bought and sold by weight, ma'am."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Well, what do you ask per pound for potatoes?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Fifty cents per pound, ma'am."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I'll take a pound to begin with," said she, laying down the money; and he gave her for fifty cents but one potato.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I priced some South American apples, nearly as tough as leather; fifty cents apiece.  We ascertained that fresh beef was selling for fifty cents per pound; dried apples, seventy-five cents per pound; Oregon butter, two dollars fifty cents per pound; flour, fifty dollars per barrel; and provisions of every kind proportionably high.  None of these things moved us, however, for we had brought with us a year's supply of all the substantials of life.  The only difficulty with us was to get a house in which to live.  Rev. O. C. Wheeler, I learned, was paying five hundred dollars a month rent for such a house as we needed, a small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>There stood in the neighborhood of our chapel a one-story rough board shanty, about twelve feet square, with a shed roof of the same material, promising, altogether, but very little protection from the storms of approaching winter; but I thought as a last resort I would try and get my wife and babes into it till something better could be obtained.  I learned that the rent for the shanty was forty dollars per month.  I immediately applied for it, but lo!  it had been secured for the personal occupancy of a reverend Episcopal brother, in "the regular succession;" and I, a poor irregular, was left to do the best I could.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I then spoke of building a little house, but lumber was selling for from three hundred to four hundred dollars per thousand feet.  To pay such prices, and build a hosue with my little stock of funds was out of the question.</P>
063.sgm:<P>In the mean time I had my household goods and provisions taken ashore, paid ten dollars per dray-load to have them hauled up on the hill near the chapel, and there they lay piled up in the open air for a fortnight.  That was prior to the advent of petty rogues in California.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>On my second Sabbath, at eleven A. M., I again occupied th e pulpit of Brother Wheeler, and had a gracious meeting.  At three P. M. we had another great class-meeting in the "shanty with the blue cover."  Many of the brethren with whom we had prayed, and sung, and shouted the Sabbath before had gone to parts unknown; but a new recruit had come in of the same sort.  After class the question was raised, "How shall our preacher get a house to live in?" It was decided that the only way was to build one; and then an effort was made in the class to see how much could be raised toward that desirable end.  But the sojourners "were <HI REND="italics">strapped</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Captain Otis Webb, son of old Father Daniel Webb of the Providence Conference, though nothing himself but a high-minded outsider, (the Lord bless the outsiders!  I have found among them some of the best friends I ever had in my life,) hearing of our situation, sent us word that he was building a house near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:our chapel, which would be finished in a week, and that we were welcome to the use of it, rent free, for a month.  So after remaining a fortnight in port aboard ship, enjoying the hospitality of Captain Wilson, we moved into the new house of Captain Webb, a one-and-a-half story house, containing five rooms, and would have rented for about four hundred dollars a month.  Thus the evil day, in regard to shelter, was postponed for a month at least.  We were, however, without fireplace or stove; but, through a propitious dream of John B. Seidenstricker, of Baltimore city, we had a supply of table furniture, and some good ovens and skillets.  About the time of our appointment as missionaries to California, John dreamed one night that he had given us free access to his hardware store for a supply of everything we might need in our new home; so in the morning when he awoke he dressed himself, and hastened immediately to tell us his dream and give it a practical fulfillment, which he did with a free good-will.  The Lord bless him!  It was neither the first nor the last act of Christian kindness we have received at his hand.  So building a camp-fire out of doors, we brought our ovens and skillets into use.  That did pretty well until the rains began to descend upon us, and then for a sick wife to stand over a drowning fire was not exactly the thing.  We had room in doors for a stove, but a small cooking-stove was worth at least one hundred dollars.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>The question now was, "What shall we do at the end of the month?"  Some said, as the Missionary Society had sent us there they would be bound to support us.  I replied that the Missionary Society never had, and never could support a man at California rates; that my rent alone for a year would be about five thousand dollars, to say nothing of other expenses; that the society, moreover, was in debt, and that I never expected to draw on them for a dollar while in California.  I said to the brethren that if nothing better opened I would take my ax and wedge, and go to the Redwoods, fifteen miles distant across the bay, and get out lumber for a house, and build it myself.  They said I could not do it; but could suggest no other way of getting a house.</P>
063.sgm:<P>A brother who had located from the traveling ranks to try his fortunes in California, said: "Poor Brother Taylor will work himself sick, and that will end the matter.  It had been better for him to come to California on his own hook as I did."  I said that I had come in the order of Providence, and that I did not believe that God would allow my family to suffer for want of shelter.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>I saw no other way, however, but to go to the Redwoods, and leave the result with the Lord.  Alexander Hatler, a brother from Missouri, who, with his good wife, had emigrated to that land before gold was discovered, said he would go with me, and help me get out lumber.  So on Tuesday, the 10th of October, we set sail for the Redwoods, in company with some of Father White's family, who had a shanty in the woods, where the old man and his sons spent much of their time, getting out and hauling lumber.</P>
063.sgm:<P>We landed where the town of San Antonia is now located.  We then had five miles to walk, and climb a mountain, carrying our packs of blankets, provisions, and working tools.  We reached the shanty a little after dark.  Brother Hatler and I put our stock of provisions into the family mess, and were admitted as guests, with the privilege of wrapping in our own blankets, and sleeping on the ground, under the common shelter.  After supper we listened to Father White's thrilling backwoods stories till bedtime; and then at the family altar we made the tall forests vocal with our song of praise.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The next morning Brother Hatler and I found a large log that some woodsman had abandoned, which we thought could be worked to good advantage.  We drove all our wedges into it, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>On Thursday we worked till noon on another log.  Being very large we had to bore it, and burst it open with powder; but it was too cross-grained for our purpose.  We then selected a large tree, and chopped at it till dark.  The next morning brought our giant of the forest to the ground; but, alas! we could not work it.  It was difficult to find a tree with straight grain and easy to split; but the trees were so large, many of them measuring twelve feet in diameter, that when a good one was opened it yielded almost a yardful of lumber.  But we did not succeed in getting the right tree.</P>
063.sgm:<P>On Friday P. M. we returned to the landing, so as to take the land breeze early on Saturday morning, and be in the city in time for the appointments of the Sabbath.  We lay on the beach that night, in the open air, to gaze at the stars, listen to the howling of the coyotes, (a small species of wolf,) or the gabble of multiplied thousands of wild geese, and the quacking of wild ducks, or meditate, or sleep, as we felt inclined.  I took my turn at each of these, especially the last.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The city brethren were not at all disappointed with the result of our trip to the woods.  It was just as they expected; but I surprised them by telling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>That was my fourth Sabbath in the city, and the second to preach in our new chapel.  It was crowded that day, and we had a memorable season.  I made provision for my appointments on the following Sabbath, so as not to be under the necessity of returning from the woods for a fortnight.  Brother Hatler could not leave his business to return with me to the Redwoods, so I had to depend on my own muscles and skill alone.  That week I wrought very hard, and was a little scared one night, as the following extract from my journal will show:</P>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"<HI REND="italics">Friday, October</HI>
063.sgm:<P>--We are here on the territory of grizzly bears and wild cats, which are frequently seen by the wood-choppers.  I had some expectation of a visit from a grizzly last night.  We butchered a calf in the evening, which we had purchased from a Spaniard, and had it in the shanty.  I lay before the open door, and thought if bruin should come in to get some veal I would have the honor of his first salutation.  But, thought I, the God who saved me from the dangers of the deep will surely keep the bears off me.  With these reflections I fell into a sweet sleep.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"After midnight I was suddenly awakened by a noise outside the hut.  I sprang up, saying to myself, `There's the bear, sure enough!' when in he came; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>On Friday, the 19th of October, I went to a woodman's tent, to sharpen my draw-knife, and found there a man, by the name of Haley, very far gone with diarrhea.  Soon as I mentioned the subject of religion to him he burst into tears, and cried like a child.  He told me that he had once enjoyed religion, and had been a member of the Baptist Church; but, in his wanderings in these Western wilds, he had got off the track, and lost his religion.  I prayed with him, and he promised to give his heart, there and then, to God.  When I called to see him the next day I found him rejoicing in the love of Jesus.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"O, I'm so glad," said he, "that you called in yesterday to see me!  I had thought of sending for you, but I felt so guilty I could not have the courage to do so; but now I feel that God, for the sake of Jesus, has pardoned all my sins.  My soul is happy:  I am not afraid to die now."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Poor fellow!  I expected him to die within a few days, but afterward learned that he recovered.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Three years after this, one night, at the close of meeting in the Bethel, in San Francisco, a man introduced himself to me, and asked me if I remembered praying with a dying man in the Redwoods, in 1849.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>I replied:  "Yes, sir, I do."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Said he:  "I am that man; and my soul is still happy in God."</P>
063.sgm:<P>I believe this was the first man I was permitted to lead to Jesus in California.  A little of my Redwood experience is noted in my journal of Saturday, October 20, as follows:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I experience a good degree of the love of God in my soul this evening; but I should feel better could I spend the approaching Sabbath at some point more important.  O that my house were built, and my family settled, that I might be wholly given up to the great work of my mission.  I feel, however, that I am working now, in this Redwood, for the Missionary Society and the Church, and that, by the labor of a few weeks, I can live without another draft on the funds of the society.  O my Master, help me in my work of avoiding expense to the Missionary Board, and in my work of saving sinners in California!"</P>
063.sgm:<P>It may not be amiss here to insert another bit of experience from my journal:</P>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"<HI REND="italics">Sunday morning, October</HI>
063.sgm:<P>--For retirement and meditation I have strolled out to the top of a high hill.  The sky is clear as crystal, and the sun is shining with a California radiance, unknown in other lands.  O this is a delightful Sabbath, and I have just been waking the echoes of the wilderness with that sweet song:</P>
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063.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>`Welcome sweet day of rest,<LB>That saw the Lord arise,' etc.<LB></HI>
063.sgm:<P>Looking eastward I see a dense forest of huge redwood timber; doubtless the veritable cedars of Lebanon.  West and north, hills and mountains stretch to the uttermost line of the ken of vision, and the scene, in its barrenness and sterility of appearance, is only relieved here and there by a small oasis, and by the herds of cattle feeding on the dry grass.  Southward the whole valley, for fifty miles, is filled with fog.  It looks as though a firmament of white broken clouds had dropped from the heavens, and settled over the whole region of the Bay of San Francisco and its adjacent vales.  Here I stand on a summit above the clouds.  Many walk beneath those clouds in comparative darkness, while I bathe in the brightest sunlight.  It is well for every lover of Jesus to rise above the world, and dwell on the Mount of Holiness, walking `in the light as God is in the light.'</P>
063.sgm:<P>"A little to my right are two graves.  There sleep the dust and buried hopes of two California adventurers.  Whence were they?  What their names?  Who are their parents?  Do they yet live to inquire after their sons in the far West?  What was the character of these sons?  What the circumstances of their death?  Where now are their souls?  These are questions which arise in my mind, but no voice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>I may here add that I preached that Sunday under the shade of a large redwood tree to twenty-five woodsmen.  One of my hearers, a man of forty-five years, heard preaching that day for the last time.  He soon afterward took suddenly ill, and died, and was added to the two lonely strangers on the neighboring hill.  The ensuing week I finished my work in the woods.  My scantling, which I bought in a rough state, split out like fence rails, I hewed to the square with my broadax.  I got my joists from a man who had a saw-pit.  I made three thousand shingles, and gave them for twenty-four joists, seventeen feet long.  I bought rough clapboards six feet long, and shaved them down with my draw-knife for weather-boarding; and thus got in the woods all the materials for a two-story house sixteen by twenty-six feet, except flooring, doors, and windows.  I bought the doors from a friend at a reduced price, eleven dollars per door.  The windows one dollar per light, ten by twelve inches.  It cost me twenty-five dollars per thousand feet to get my lumber hauled to the landing, and the regular price of freight from there to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>After digging a foundation on the church lot, rear of the chapel, and getting my lumber ready for building a parsonage, I was led to change my choice of location by the following facts, as noted from my journal:</P>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"<HI REND="italics">Friday, October</HI>
063.sgm:<P>--I have all along designed building a parsonage on the church lot, thinking that when the brethren should get through with the chapel debt, they might refund to me the actual cash I expend in the building.  But I find that, though I shall save more than half the cash cost of such a house by my own labor, it will nevertheless cost more money than the brethren will feel able to pay, and much more probably than they would have to pay two years hence for a house that will suit them much better for a parsonage.<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
063.sgm: Moreover, if I build on the church lot, we shall have to carry all the water we use up a long, steep hill; or, if brought to us, it will cost us twelve cents per bucket.  If, therefore, I can get a lot convenient to water, and build on my own account, and thereby save the society the enormous rents, or present rates of building a parsonage, I shall be doing the Church a good service in that regard, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">Brother Simonds built there three years afterward a better parsonage for less than half the cost of my house.</NOTE>
063.sgm:<P>In the mean time Brother Hatler bought a lot, and built a house for himself and family on Jackson-street, above Powell, and proposed to me, if I would buy the next lot adjoining and build, and be his neighbor, he would dig a good well at our door, and would advance me the money to pay for my lot, and let me refund it when I could, without interest.  So I bought a lot next door to Brother Hatler, twenty-three by one hundred and thirty-seven and a half feet, for twelve hundred and fifty dollars.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Brother Hatler, being a carpenter, gave me instruction and some help in building my house.  I hired a few carpenters to hasten the business, as the wet season was upon us, till I got the house under roof.  I paid my carpenters twelve dollars a day, and while they were at work for me, the men of their craft in the city struck for higher wages, sixteen dollars a day, threatening a penalty, which I need not mention, on any carpenter who should work for less; so I had to come up to the figures of sixteen dollars per day.  So soon, however, as I got my house under roof, I dismissed my men, and did the rest of the work with my own hands, except occasionally a brother passing along would give me a few hours' work.  Clarkson Dye, now proprietor of the Tremont House, New-York, put up my stairs.  Treat Clark gave me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>In six weeks from the time we moved into Captain Webb's house we moved into our own, and thus avoided paying one cent of rent.  I had two rooms up stairs to rent, to help pay for the building, and had one fitted up for strangers, and especially for preachers, if we ever should be favored with the company of any.  We had just got it furnished when Rev. J. Doane and his wife, missionaries for Oregon, arrived, and rejoiced to find so good a "prophet's room" in San Francisco.  But we waited more than a year before the first recruit of missionaries for California arrived.</P>
063.sgm:<P>A forcible entry was made into my house as soon as I got it under roof, by an immense immigration from all climes of the rat tribe.  Their multitude almost equaled that of the frogs of Egypt, and they were everywhere, in "bed-chambers," "ovens," and "kneading troughs."  We could scarcely walk the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<illus entity="a063-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A STREET SCENE ON A RAINY NIGHT.</P>
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063.sgm:streets at night without being brought into contact with them.  I brought one to an untimely end one night by accidentally setting my foot on it in the street.  I have seen them swimming in the bay, from ship to ship, and when pursued they would dive and swim under water like minks.  Mrs. Taylor had a beautiful counterpane, presented to her by friends in Baltimore, which she laid away carefully for safe keeping.  One night, as she was taking it up for examination, she found it cut full of holes, and out sprang two China rats, white as cotton, with bright colored eyes surrounded by a streak of red.  Having never seen any of that color before, their appearance produced quite a sensation in the family; we succeeded in capturing one of them, and having heard that if a singed rat were turned into a nest of rats they would all leave the house, we tried the experiment on our China fellow.  We gave his white coat a good singeing, not, however, so as to hurt his feelings, and let him go.  I really thought that the unsightly appearance of his ratship, and the smell of fire he bore away with him, would be a caution to all the family.  His China friends took the hint and left, but the huge gray and black rats stood their ground and held possession of the premises.  Those who could build rat-proof houses were highly favored among men.  I used to see this notice on the door of a little house built over a well: "Shut the door and keep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:the rats out of the well, the <HI REND="italics">nasty things</HI>
063.sgm:<P>In addition to building materials for our house, I brought from the woods material to fence in the back part of our lot for a garden. But says one, "Are you a carpenter and gardener too?"  I am neither one nor the other, but I had faith in God, and lacked not confidence in my own muscles, and in my skill to direct them in building, digging, and doing whatever else was necessary for a living in the land to which we had been sent to labor for God.  Our garden flourished so that in a few weeks from the commencement of the rains in October, we had turnips, greens, and lettuce in abundance, a luxury enjoyed, I believe, by but one other family in the city.  A restaurant keeper, passing by our garden one day, said to Mrs. Taylor: "I would like to buy some of your greens, madam; what do you ask for them?"  "We have not offered any for sale," she replied, "but as we have more than we need, you can have some at your own price."  Said he, "I'll give you ten dollars for a water-pail full."  He took them, paid the money, and in a few days returned for more.  Mrs. Taylor filled his pail again, and told him she would not take ten dollars for them, but would be well satisfied with eight.  She then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>We were now pretty well fixed, but Mrs. Taylor thought our little home would look more homelike if we could have a few chickens. So she applied to a neighbor lady who had a good stock of poultry, and the lady replied that she would be happy to accommodate her, and as she was the missionary's wife, she might have them at a reduced price.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"How much, Mrs. C., will you charge me for a rooster and two hens?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"You can have the three, madam," replied Mrs. C., "for eighteen dollars."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Mrs. Taylor paid the price demanded, and brought home the fowls.  I built a house for their accommodation, and put a lock on it to secure them at night, but some hungry fellow came along a few nights afterward, pulled a board off the rear end of the house, and carried away the cock and one of the hens, and we saw them no more.  The remaining hen soon paid for herself in eggs.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Having to buy milk for our little Oceana, we got a supply daily from a neighbor, at the low rate of one dollar per quart.  One dollar and a quarter per quart was the selling price, but being missionaries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>In the course of human events our milkwoman moved away, and we bought for milk some kind of a chalk mixture that made our little girl sick; so I sent to Sacramento City, where good cows could be got cheap, and bought a cow for two hundred dollars, and then we had plenty of good milk of our own.  Such was life in California in 1849.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I have gone thus into detail, not to exhibit mine as a peculiar case, for it was not so, but simply to illustrate California life.  As for sufferings I had none.  My labors in house building were simply a good acclimating process, which increased my physical power, and prepared me the more effectively to endure the ministerial toil to which I was called.  As for comforts, I was better off than most of my neighbors.  We had a comfortable home, while the great mass of our "city folks" lived in very inferior shanties and tents.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I have often gone out in the morning after a stormy night, and found whole rows of tents lying flat on the ground, and scattered in every direction <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P>MISSIONARY LIFE--CONTINUED<LB>WHEN the organization of the "Oregon and California Mission Conference" was authorized by the General Conference of 1848, Rev. WILLIAM ROBERTS, who had been sent as missionary to Oregon the year before, was appointed superintendent of the missionary work in both territories; a good appointment, for he is a capable, noble brother, and a faithful minister of the Gospel; but his services were in great demand in Oregon, and being fully committed to the work there, and having his family and home there, more than seven hundred miles distant from San Francisco, he was only able to render to California the semiannual visit of a few weeks.</P>
063.sgm:<P>His first visit as superintendent was in the summer of 1849, during which he preached in San Francisco, Sacramento City, Coloma, and perhaps at other points.  A friend, who heard him preach at Coloma, says that Rev. Mr. Damon, from the Sandwich Islands, preached that day in the same house, and a "hat collection" of one hundred and thirty dollars was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Without casting the slightest reflection on Brother Damon, for I believe him to be a faithful man of God, I would remark that the conduct of the gambler is a good illustration of a prominent characteristic of Californians generally, however wicked; for while they will not endure low abuse, they want a man, and especially a minister of the Gospel, to speak out the whole truth fearlessly, boldly, and to make thorough work of whatever he undertakes.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I heard of a would-be preacher in California, who tried to become "all things to all men" in a sense that the great apostle would not approve.  He fell in company with a fine-looking man, whom he took to be a gambler, and made himself very agreeable to him indeed, till finally the latter remarked:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"The old fogies at home would be horror-stricken to see a man of your cloth associating so familiarly with one of my profession."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"O," said the preacher, "I look upon your profession in a very different light from that of most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:ministers.  California is a peculiar country; a country of chance in every department of business; and <HI REND="italics">games</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"By Harry!"  rejoined the other; "do you mean to insinuate that I am a gambler?  If I were a gambler I wouldn't show myself in decent society.  I belong to the <HI REND="italics">stage</HI>
063.sgm:<P>The justly mortified preacher found that he had set his moral standard too low for California common sense, and quite undershot his mark.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I will in justice say, that I know of no <HI REND="italics">regular</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Brother Roberts on this trip secured from Captain Sutter the donation of a church lot in Sacramento City; and hearing that I was bringing with me, via Cape Horn, the frame of a church from Baltimore, he decided that it, on arrival, had better be shipped to Sacramento City, and he would, immediately on his return, have one for San Francisco, framed and shipped from Oregon.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Captain Gelson set apart for the Methodist Episcopal Church in San Francisco, a fifty vara lot, one hundred and thirty-seven and a half feet square, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The church site on Powell-street was, like Mount Zion, "beautiful for situation;" the top of a high hill, above the town, commanding a grand view of the bay and surrounding country, and requiring nearly all who desired to worship there to say: "Let us go up to the house of the Lord."  But the <HI REND="italics">going up</HI>
063.sgm:<P>The Gelson lot, however, which was twice as large, and was sold for half the price of this, was within less than four years in nearly the center of the city, and one of the best church sites in it, but could not be bought for less than thirty thousand dollars.</P>
063.sgm:<P>On this visit to California Brother Roberts brought with him his blankets, sleeping and traveling gear, and on his arrival bought and rigged up a mule, and thus traveled on "the foal of an ass" in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>On his next visit, a few months later, he brought his blankets again; but we informed him that he need not untie them, as California had so risen in the scale of civilization, and had so advanced in internal improvements, that she could furnish at least one bed, blankets and all, for the ministers who might visit her shores.  He ascertained that it was even so, and I saw no more of his blankets.</P>
063.sgm:<P>On my arrival in San Francisco I found the frame of the said church from Oregon up, and the floor laid; size, twenty-five by forty feet.  There was as yet no regular board of trustees; but Brothers Troubody, Hatler, White, and others were earnestly at work "building a house for the Lord."  They had paid eleven hundred dollars freight on the lumber from Oregon, and were paying the carpenters as the work proceeded, so that when the church was finished they owed nothing except the cost of the lumber in Oregon, which was nearly fifteen hundred dollars.  Some months afterward, when Brother Roberts presented the lumber bill, they raised and paid over nearly five hundred dollars, and turned over to Brother <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>This, the second Protestant, and first Methodist church built in California, was dedicated the third Sunday after my arrival, October 8th, 1849.  I preached the dedication sermon to a crowded house, from: "The voice of him that crieth in the wilderness, Prepare ye the way of the Lord, make straight in the desert a highway for our God.  Every valley shall be exalted, and every mountain and hill shall be made low, and the crooked shall be made straight, and the rough places plain.  And the glory of the Lord shall be revealed, and all flesh shall see it together; for the mouth of the Lord hath spoken it."  I was assited in the dedicatory services by Rev. O. C. Wheeler, Baptist minister; Rev. Alfred Williams, Presbyterian; and Rev. T. Dwight Hunt, Congregationalist.</P>
063.sgm:<P>These were all the Protestant pastors in the city at that time, except Rev. Mr. Mines and Rev. Dr. Vermehr, who, though friendly enough in social life, did not, being Episcopal clergymen, give us an ecclesiastical fraternization.  But the three brethren above named all extended to me a hearty welcome on my arrival, and afterward ever exhibited gentlemanly courtesy, and the good-will of a common Christian brotherhood.</P>
063.sgm:<P>In connection with our dedication service, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>I met with this ship's company at Valparaiso, <HI REND="italics">enroute</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Brother Hatch had made no calculation on going to manual labor.  His prospects of success and usefulness were built alone on the unity and success of the company; but now it was all broken up, and he was left in the lurch, which was almost as shocking to his nervous system as to his bright hopes, and <HI REND="italics">lee-lurched</HI>
063.sgm: him so low in a spell of sickness, that for weeks it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:was very doubtful whether he ever would <HI REND="italics">right up</HI>
063.sgm:<P>From an intimate personal acquaintance with Brother Hatch during most of his sojourn of a couple of years in California, I have to say of him, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Our congregations being too large for our little church, we made, in the early part of 1851, an addition to the rear end of it, twenty feet in depth by thirty-five in width, giving the house the form of the letter T.  This enlargement cost about sixteen hundred dollars.</P>
063.sgm:<P>In 1854 the original church was sold and moved off the lot, and a fine wood edifice erected, fifty by eighty feet, at a cost of about fifteen thousand dollars.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The old church is now used as a dwelling on an adjoining lot.</P>
063.sgm:<P>THE BALTIMORE CALIFORNIA CHAPEL, though second in its erection by a few weeks, was the first Protestant church ever prepared for California use.  It was framed in Baltimore by John W. Hogg, in February, 1849, having doors, windows, tin roof, and everything furnished, just ready, like the materials of Solomon's temple, for being put up.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The friends in Baltimore not only thus provided a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Though the Methodists were the first Protestants to explore California as a missionary field, Rev. William Roberts and Rev. J. H. Wilbur, Methodist missionaries to Oregon, having as early as May, 1847, visited San Francisco, Monterey, and other points, and made earnest appeals to the Church on the importance of sending missionaries there immediately; and though the General Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church, as early as May, 1848, authorized the organization of the "Oregon and California Mission Conference,"  and the appointment of two missionaries for California that year, still, in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Rev. T. D. HUNT, who had for some time been in the service of the "American Board of Commissioners of Foreign Missions," arrived in San Francisco, from the Sandwich Islands, in October, 1848.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Three days after his arrival he was formally invited by the prominent citizens of the place, of every religious persuasion, to reside among them, and act as chaplain of the town for one year, dating from November 1, 1848.  A salary of two thousand five hundred dollars was voted at the public meeting as compensation for his services, and was promptly subscribed, and paid in quarterly installments.  The school-house on the Plaza was appropriated by the town as the place of public worship, and services were at once held in it at eleven o'clock A.M., and half past seven P.M. of every Sabbath."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Acting thus as chaplain for the town, Mr. Hunt did not organize a Church until July, 1849, when he organized the "First Congregational Church."  Their first house of worship, size about twenty-four by forty feet, was built on the corner of Jackson and Virginia streets, and was dedicated February 10, 1850; four months after the dedication of our chapel on Powell-street.  They subsequently built a brick church on the corner of California and Dupont <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The steamship California, which arrived in San Francisco, February 28, 1849, brought four missionaries from New-York, namely, Rev. O. C. Wheeler, a Baptist, Rev. S. Woodbridge, an Old School Presbyterian, Rev. J. W. Douglass, and Rev. S. H. Willey, both New School Presbyterians.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Rev. O. C. WHEELER immediately commenced operations in San Francisco, and on June 24, 1849, organized the "First Baptist Church."  They soon afterward built a church on Washington-street, between Dupont and Stockton streets, size about thirty by fifty feet, which was the first Protestant church built in California.  They have since erected a brick edifice on the same site, in which Rev. B. Brierly officiates as pastor, Rev. Mr. Wheeler having gone to Sacramento City.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Rev. S. WOODBRIDGE established a Church in Benicia, where he still resides as pastor.  He was chaplain of the California Legislature, during the sojourn of that <HI REND="italics">migratory institution</HI>
063.sgm: in Benicia; for the location of the State Legislature was, for several years, one among the ten thousand contingences of California life.  San Jose&acute; was first fixed by law as the capital of the state.  Subsequently General M. G.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The next year, when the law-makers assembled in the new capital, they were not exactly satisfied with the new State House, nor the accomodations afforded by the town for their comfort; in short, they believed that the general had not fulfilled his contract with them, and about arrived at the conclusion that his offer was predicated on the sale of city property, which had not been so productive as was anticipated, and they did not feel like waiting till the money could be made in that way.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Benicia, a rival town seven miles distant from Vallejo, then put in a bid for the job of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:accommodating that honorable body, and through some <HI REND="italics">logrolling</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Rev. J. W. DOUGLASS preached a year or two in San Jose&acute;, and afterward became editor and publisher of "The Pacific," a religious paper published in San Francisco.  Mr. Douglass subsequently returned to New-York, and the said paper is now edited by Rev. Mr. Brayton.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Rev. S. H. WILLEY landed at Monterey, and remained there a year and a half.  During his stay there the convention that framed the State Constitution met in Monterey, and Mr. Willey officiated as chaplain.  He subsequently went to San Francisco, and organized the "The Second Presbyterian Church" in that city, of which he is still pastor.</P>
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063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Rev. ALBERT WILLIAMS arrived in San Francisco, in the steamship Oregon, April 1, 1849.  After preaching a few times in the public school-house on the Plaza, he organized, on the 20th of May, the "First Presbyterian Church," composed at that time of six members.  On the west side of Dupont-street, between Pacific-street and Broadway, they pitched a large tent, "which had been the marquee of a military company in Boston, and in it during the remainder of the dry season of 1849 they statedly held their meetings.  It was plainly but neatly furnished with matting, pulpit, seats, and seraphine, and afforded accommodations for about two hundred persons." Mr. Williams also taught a small school in this tent.  Their first church was built on Stockton-street, near the corner of Broadway, and was dedicated on the 19th of January, 1851.  The materials had been purchased and framed by the liberality of friends in New-York, so the society in San Francisco had to pay nothing on the materials, except the freight from New-York, the respectable little item of three thousand dollars; and putting up and finishing the church cost ten thousand dollars more.  It was of the early Gothic style of architecture, thirty-five feet wide by seventy-five feet in depth, and would seat eight hundred persons.  So Mr. Williams, after waiting more than a year and a half, had now the best church in the state, and a good congregation.  They, however, enjoyed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Rev. J. A. BENTON, Congregationalist, arrived in the summer of 1849, and organized a church in Sacramento City, of which he is still the pastor.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Rev. F. S. MINES, an Episcopal clergyman, also arrived in the summer of 1849, and organized "Trinity Church," the first of his denomination in California.  They built a small chapel next door north of the Methodist chapel on Powell-street, which was ready for use about January 1st, 1850.  They afterward sold out to the Rev. Mr. Prevaux, Baptist minister, for an academy, which he successfully established, and built of corrugated iron a more commodious church on Pine-street, between Montgomery and Kearney-streets.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Mr. Mines died in 1852, the only clergyman who has ever deceased in that city.  Rev. Dr. Wyatt is his successor.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Rev. Dr. VERMEHR, also an Episcopal clergyman, arrived, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
063.sgm: Cape Horn, a few days before I did, in September, 1849.  He organized "Grace Parish" in April, 1850.  "Grace Chapel" was opened for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Of these pioneer missionaries, the two Episcopal clergymen named, and the Rev. Messrs. Hunt, Wheeler, and Williams, were, as before stated, the only pastors established in San Francisco on my arrival; and with the two exceptions before mentioned, they received me with a cordial greeting as a co-laborer with them in the great work of evangelization in California.  I know not that a discordant note was ever struck to disturb the harmony of our mutual friendly relations.  As evidence of the fraternal feelings existing between us, we all dedicated our respective churches at twelve M., to afford the other congregations opportunity to get through with their regular morning services in time for the people to attend, and the ministers to participate in the dedicatory services.  We also in those days had a ministers' meeting every Monday morning, where we prayed for each other, and for our respective charges, and exchanged words of mutual comfort and encouragement.  We also discussed questions of general interest, and projected plans for promoting our common cause in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>For the relief of destitute and sick strangers, the "Strangers' Friend Society" was organized in our church in Powell-street, about February 1st, 1850.  Brothers Hunt, Wheeler, and Williams, with their congregations, all took an active part in this society, and it was the means of affording temporary relief to many sufferers.  The society was not continued beyond the emergences of that winter; but another important movement grew out of it, which, if it had been successful in the accomplishment of its ends, would have resulted in great good to the city, and to thousands of sick strangers.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The principle of farming out the care of the sick to the lowest bidder, on which the city fathers were acting, was deplored by reflecting men as a great evil.  The city was then paying five dollars per day for the care of each charity patient.  The physician's honesty and sympathy might lead him to give to each patient five dollars' worth of attention, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>At a public meeting of "The Strangers' Friend Society," at the Baptist Church, on the 19th of February, 1850, a committee was appointed to draft and present a memorial to the City Council, praying for the erection by the city of a charity hospital.  The committee consisted of the Revs. Wheeler, Hunt, Williams, and J. B. Bond, E. Townsend, Dr. Logan, and myself.  The committee, after various meetings, prepared their memorial, to which was appended a plan illustrating the character of the contemplated hospital, and a constitution for its government, all of which were duly presented to the City Council.  The city fathers seemed well pleased with our suggestions and plans, and said it would be just the thing needed if they had the money to carry it into effect; but, for want of funds, they respectfully declined to act.  They, however, continued to pay out from four hundred to six hundred dollars per day for the care of the sick, even at the reduced rate of four dollars per day each patient.  It was not many months until a debt of sixty-four thousand dollars hung over the city for the care of her sick strangers, for the recovery of which suit was instituted and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Another work in which we had hearty concert of action, was the organization of the Bible Society, of which the "Annals of San Francisco," a book full of valuable historical matter, published by Appleton &amp; Co., New-York, has the following notice:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"On October 30th, 1849, a meeting of citizens friendly to the formation of a `Bible Society,' was held in the Methodist Episcopal Church in Powell-street, at which Rev. T. Dwight Hunt presided, and Mr. Frederic Billings acted as secretary.  Addresses were delivered by F. Buel, agent of the `American Bible Society,' Messrs.  F. Billings, and W. W. Caldwell; and on motion of Mr. William R. Wardsworth, the `San Francisco Bible Society,' auxiliary to the `American Bible Society,' was organized, a constitution adopted, and the following officers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"The depository of the society was destroyed by fire on the morning of the 26th of April, 1853; in place of which a new fire-proof brick building has been erected on the lot belonging to the society, No. 376 Stockton-street, between Union and Green-streets.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"The officers for 1854 are: President, Hon. D. O. Shattuck; vice-presidents, Rev. B. Brierly, Rev. M. C. Briggs, and Rev. S. H. Willey; secretary, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>When Colonel M'Kee, one of the Indian agents appointed by the government at Washington to treat with the California Indians, was about to enter upon the discharge of his duties, he came to our ministers' meeting to consult them as to the best mode of reaching and civilizing the red men of the Pacific.  We discussed the subject at large, and all concurred in the views of the colonel, namely: to colonize them on reservations, and place them under competent tutors, appointed by government, who should teach them husbandry and mechanism, and protect them against the rum-selling, extortionary, peddling fraternity of mean white men, who had been such a curse to all the Indian tribes of the East; and then, as soon as practicable, employ teachers to teach them science, and then missionaries to teach them salvation.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Such was, in substance, the plan there submitted and concurred in, and we all prayed over it, and committed it to the care of the red man's God and ours.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The plan has met with much opposition from three classes.  First, from the Indian exterminators, who maintain that nothing can be done successfully to elevate, or long to perpetuate the red race; that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Some of the last named class urge their objections no doubt from honest motives, but others from selfishness, because the plan, if properly executed, will debar them from their favorite mode of taming and civilizing the Indians, namely, by selling them rum, and robbing them of their furs or their gold dust.</P>
063.sgm:<P>But the colonization plan, notwithstanding all opposition, has, for the time it has been in operation, been successful beyond all precedent in Indian history.</P>
063.sgm:<P>In October, 1856, I got the following statistics in San Francisco, in the office of Col. T. J. Henly, superintendent of Indian affairs in California:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"The number of Indians now collected and residing on reservations is, at</P>
063.sgm:<P>Klamath<HSEP>2,500</P>
063.sgm:<P>Nome Lackee<HSEP>2,000</P>
063.sgm:<P>Mendocino<HSEP>500</P>
063.sgm:<P>Fresno<HSEP>900</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Tejon<HSEP>700</P>
063.sgm:<P>Nome Cult Valley, attached to Nome Lackee<HSEP>3,000</P>
063.sgm:<P>King's River, attached to Fresno<HSEP>400</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Making in all ten thousand.  The number of Indians not connected with the reservations cannot be correctly estimated.  The following statement is made up from the most reliable information I have been able to obtain:</P>
063.sgm:<P>On and attached to reservations, as above<HSEP>10,000</P>
063.sgm:<P>In San Diego and San Barnardino Counties<HSEP>8,000</P>
063.sgm:<P>Los Angelos, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Monterey, Santa Clara, and Santa Cruz Counties<HSEP>2,000</P>
063.sgm:<P>Tulara and Mariposa<HSEP>2,500</P>
063.sgm:<P>Tuolumne, Calaveras, San Joaquin, Alameda, and Contra Costa Counties<HSEP> 4,100</P>
063.sgm:<P>Sacramento, Eldorado, and Placer Counties<HSEP>4,500</P>
063.sgm:<P>Sutter, Yuba, Nevada, and Sierra Counties<HSEP>3,500</P>
063.sgm:<P>Butte, Shasta, and Siskiyou Counties<HSEP>5,500</P>
063.sgm:<P>Klamath, Humboldt, and Trinity Counties<HSEP>6,500</P>
063.sgm:<P>Mendocino, Colusi, Yolo, Napa, Sonoma, and Marin Counties 1,500</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Making the total number of Indians within this superintendence sixty-one thousand six hundred."</P>
063.sgm:<P>I learn that during the year 1857 another thousand Indians have been gathered in, and settled on the reservations.  To illustrate the practical operation of this plan of colonization I here insert the following testimony concerning the Nome Lackee Reservation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"I cannot close this report without speaking of the healthy and flourishing condition of Nome Lackee Reservation, which is situated twenty miles west of the Sacramento River, at the foot of the Coast Range.  Under the management of V. E. Geiger, it is in a more flourishing condition than ever before.  Mr. Geiger is much beloved by the Indians, and keeps them under the strictest discipline; but still they are contented and happy.  Between thirty and forty thousand bushels of grain were raised on the reservation this year, the work being all done by the Indians.  Under the management of Mr. Geiger it will be but a short time till all the Indians in the northern part of California will be safely settled on the reserve."</P>
063.sgm:<P>I am sorry to say that the plan, so far as it relates to schools, and the preaching of the Gospel among the Indians on the reservations, has not as yet been carried into effect.  I hope it will be very soon; for, however dull the parents may be, the children are bright, and capable of elevation.  O how my heart has bled for them, as I have witnessed their sports, and listened to their merry shouts, as they skipped over the hills!  I loved them as myself, being my brethren; and longed to see them enjoy my privileges of enlightenment and salvation.</P>
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063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P>MISSIONARY LIFE--CONTINUED.<LB>As we before stated, Rev. William Roberts organized a small class in San Francisco, in the summer of 1847, which was reorganized in the spring of 1849, by Brother Asa White.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The first quarterly meeting in California was held in our chapel on Powell-street.  It commenced by the organization of a quarterly conference, on Saturday night, December 2, 1849.  John Troubody, Alexander Hatler, and Willet M'Cord were elected stewards.  Resolutions were passed, expressing thanks to the Missionary Board for sending them a missionary, and pledging themselves for his support, beyond the appropriation they had already made.  The said new board of stewards fixed my salary and table expenses at two thousand dollars per year, including the missionary appropriation of seven hundred and fifty dollars, I finding and furnishing my own house.</P>
063.sgm:<P>On the Sunday of our quarterly meeting Rev. J. Doane, missionary, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
063.sgm: to Oregon, preached at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>An idea of the prestige of the gambling fraternity, and the magnificence of their saloons in those days, may be obtained from the accompanying cut, representing, to the life, the interior of the El Dorado, a large gambling-house, at the northeast corner of the Plaza.  The tables, loaded with gold and silver, you cannot see for the multitude; but in the rear end of the saloon you see, elevated on a stage, a band of the best musicians the country could furnish, sending forth their melody in such sweetness and variety as to crowd the house, and hold in admiration the promiscuous masses in the streets.  I have heard them sing and play, "Home, sweet, sweet home," till homeless wanderers, by hundreds, would stand entranced, seeming to live for a time in the embrace of loved ones, surrounded by all the sweet associations of the past.  Alas! it was but the song of the siren.</P>
063.sgm:<P>On the right may be seen the beautifully ornamented bar, with splendid mirrors in the rear, around which many a jolly circle of hopeful young prodigals drank to each other's health the deadly draught.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<illus entity="a063-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INTERIOR OF THE EL DORADO.</P>
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063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The brethren knew that if the gamblers should regard my attempt to preach on the Plaza, thrilling every one of their saloons with the echoes of an unwelcome Gospel, as an interference with their business, and should shoot me down, there would be no redress.  It would simply be said, "The gamblers killed a Methodist preacher."  At the appointed time I was on the Plaza, accompanied by Mrs. T. and a few friends.  I got Mrs. T. a chair, and put her in care of Dr. B. Miller, and appropriated a carpenter's workbench, which stood in front of the largest gambling-saloon in the place, as my pulpit.  At that moment Clarkson Dye, thinking I might need some protection against the rays of the burning sun, went across to Brown's Hotel, and asked for the loan of an umbrella to hold over the preacher.  He was met with the reply: "I won't let my umbrella be used for such a purpose, but if I had some rotten eggs I'd give them to him."  He had to pay nine dollars per dozen for eggs, and couldn't afford to throw them at the preacher.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Taking my stand on the work-bench I sang:<LB><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Hear the royal proclamation,<LB>The glad tidings of salvation,<LB>Publishing to every creature,<LB>To the ruin'd sons of nature.<LB>Jesus reigns, he reigns victorious<LB>Over heaven and earth most glorious,<LB>Jesus reigns!<LB>"See the royal banner flying,<LB>Hear the heralds loudly crying,<LB>Rebel sinner, royal favor<LB>Now is offer'd by the Saviour.<LB>Jesus reigns, etc.<LB>"Hear, ye sons of wrath and ruin,<LB>Who have wrought your own undoing;<LB>Here is life, and free salvation,<LB>Offer'd to the whole creation.<LB>Jesus reigns, etc.<LB>"'Twas for you that Jesus died,<LB>For you he was crucified,<LB>Conquer'd death, and rose to heaven,<LB>Life eternal's through him given.<LB>Jesus reigns, etc.<LB>"Here is wine, and milk, and honey,<LB>Come and purchase without money;<LB>Mercy, like a flowing fountain,<LB>Streaming from the holy mountain.<LB>Jesus reigns, etc.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<LB>"For this love, let rocks and mountains,<LB>Purling streams and crystal fountains,<LB>Roaring thunders, lightning blazes<LB>Shout the great Messiah's praises.<LB>Jesus reigns, etc.<LB>"Turn unto the Lord most holy,<LB>Shun the paths of sin and folly;<LB>Turn, or you are lost forever,<LB>O now turn to God your Saviour!<LB>Jesus reigns, etc."<LB></HI>
063.sgm:<P>By the time the song ended, I was surrounded by about one thousand men.  Restless hundreds, always ready for the cry, "A whale! a whale!" or any other wonder under the sun, came running from every direction, and the gambling-houses were almost vacated.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I had crossed the Rubicon, and now came the tug of war.  Said I, "Gentlemen, if our friends in the Atlantic states, with the views and feelings they entertained of California society when I left them, had heard that there was to be preaching this afternoon on Portsmouth Square, in San Francisco, they would have predicted disorder, confusion, and riot; but we who are here believe very differently.  One thing is certain, there is no man who loves to see those stars and stripes floating on the breeze, (pointing to the waving flag of our Union,) and who loves the institutions fostered under them; in a word, there is no true <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Every man present was a "true American" for that hour.  Perfect order was observed, and profound attention given to every sentence of the sermon that followed.  That was our first assault upon the enemy in the open field in San Francisco, and the commencement of a seven years' campaign, which is illustrated in my book on "Street Preaching in San Francisco."  I preached in the chapel that evening to a crowded house, and four men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>I preached every night during that week, and three persons professed to experience religion; the first revival meeting in California.  The little society was greatly refreshed, and especially encouraged by the fact that God could and did convert sinners in that land of gold and crime, a thing almost as incredible, even among Christians, at that time in California as the doctrine of the resurrection among the Sadducees.  We had, upon the whole, though minus a presiding elder, a good old-fashioned quarterly meeting, never to be forgotten.</P>
063.sgm:<P>During the fall of 1849 we had but one class, which met every Sunday at three o'clock P. M.  It contained but about thirty members; the meetings, however, were swelled by a constant stream of immigrating Methodism, to an average attendance of sixty persons, and frequently numbering as high as ninety.  We had but very few females, a lack we keenly felt; for the great man, Moses, could not get along well without a sister to help him; and the Great Prophet, of whom Moses was a type, needed Marys and Marthas, and Joannas, who stood by him, `mid shame and scorn,' to the death, the last to listen to his dying groans, the first to hail his welcome rising, and bear the coronation tidings of the King of Glory to their poor, frightened, desponding brethren.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>What could the great apostle to the Gentiles have done but for the help of Phebe, Priscilla, and others, of whom he says: "I entreat thee also, true yoke-fellow, help those women which labored with me in the Gospel, whose names are in the book of life."  But there, in California, we had to do the best we could with the assistance of but very few sisters.  I had one, thank the Lord, who stood by me in every battle; but in a class-meeting of ninety persons we could number only two or three ladies.  Yet we had glorious meetings notwithstanding, for they all had mothers, wives, or sisters far away, whose influence followed them across the continent, and over oceans, and there, vibrating on every nerve, stirred the tender sensibilities of their souls, and caused them, on the utterance of that sweet but mighty word HOME, to weep like children.  By a rapid association of kindred thoughts their minds were carried forward to the longed for meeting again with distant loved ones, and the possible doubt of not meeting them again on mortal shores, led them to the anticipation of the glorious meeting of friends on the shores of immortality, and the inseparable and unceasing friendships of a home in heaven.  Their uplifted hands, streaming eyes, and joyous shouts told of their far-reaching hope and faith, which pierced through the darkness of death, and fixed their unclouded gaze on the glories of God's own home, and theirs.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Those class-meetings, composed of Christian adventurers from every land, were intellectual, social, and religious feasts, full of heaven and glory.  I never expect to see any more exactly like them.  In that infant society there were some noble men; I will here notice a few of them.</P>
063.sgm:<P>ASA WHITE, now past the meridian of life, a hardy sun-tanned pioneer of the woods, was a man of good common sense, and very generous heart, a local preacher of moderate abilities, a good exhorter, full of fire.  He had three married daughters with him at that time, who, with his good wife and two of his sons-in-law, were all zealous Methodists.  They could have a good meeting any time, whether anybody else came or not.  They were closely bound together as a family band, by mutual confidence and ardent affection, and could have made a fortune, and done a great deal of good in almost any place in California, had they settled down; but they had been pioneers all their lives, moving westward in the van of early emigration, and having reached the western limit of the continent, they spent their time in moving up and down the shore, now in Oregon, now in California, then again to Oregon, then back again to California, men, women, and children, all of the same mind, and all moving together.  They seemed, by their constant migrations, to say: "O that we had a new continent of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>ALFRED LOVE, the unconverted son-in-law in the family, came the nearest making a permanent settlement in California of any of them.  He was a very kind-hearted fellow, a sincere friend to the cause of religion, and I often tried to persuade him to be reconciled to God.  He admitted the truth of all I said, but still pursued his own course.</P>
063.sgm:<P>One day he went out into the mountains alone to take a hunt.  In working his way through a chaperel thicket, he suddenly stumbled on a huge grizzly bear.  The grizzly put after him at full speed.  Alfred dropped his gun, and ran for life, but soon perceived by the cracking of the brush behind him, and the heavy footfall of old bruin, that he was rapidly gaining on him.  His course led him across a deep ravine, in the bottom of which was a deep cut washed out by the winter torrents.  He had no time to get round it, and in attempting to jump across the cut, his foot slipped, and down he fell to the bottom.  As he struck, the terrors of death got <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>I heard him say afterward: "While I lay there every moment expecting the bear to jump on me, I was so sorry I had not taken Mr. Taylor's advice, and given my heart to the Lord, while I had opportunity; but I thought it was all over with me then."</P>
063.sgm:<P>JOHN TROUBODY is by birth an Englishman, but crossed the water with his wife in early manhood.  He lived a while in Pennsylvania; then in Missouri; and moved across the plains to California in 1847, or 1848.  He appears to be a slow man in everything, but he steps so cautiously and constantly, that he always comes out about even with the fastest in every race.  He has acquired a handsome property in California.  A man of unbending religious integrity, a true friend of the Methodist Episcopal Church, and has never forgotten "the rock whence he was hewn, nor the hole of the pit whence he was digged."  His wife was also a member of the Church, and their house may be set down, I think, as the first Methodist preacher's home in California.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>WILLET M'CORD, from Sing Sing, New-York, was by no means a noisy Methodist.  He always had on hand a dish of wit and pleasantry for the social circle, and was always in his place in the class-room and prayer-meeting.</P>
063.sgm:<P>L. F. BUDD was a remarkably simple-hearted, inoffensive, conscientious brother, of generous, refined feelings, and stern integrity.  He had spent several years in Costa Rica, Central America, as commercial agent for some mercantile firm, and was instrumental in leading a wealthy coffee planter there to Christ.  This planter corresponded regularly with Brother Budd in San Francisco.  I used to read his letters with great interest.  They were full of spirit and life, and earnest prayers for the redemption of the Central American states from the chains of sin and superstition.  I am sorry I have forgotten the planter's name.  Budd went from Costa Rica to California, in the employ of the same house; and in the palmiest days of San Francisco for money-making, gave his time to his employers at a small salary, fixed according to Eastern rates, till the term of his engagement expired.  He then invested his earnings in a house, which was to let for several months before it was occupied, while he had applications for it almost every week.  He always inquired:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"For what purpose do you wish to rent my house?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I want to keep a boarding-house and a bar."</P>
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063.sgm:<P>To which he always replied, "I can't let my house for the sale of grog."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Finally a man, who greatly desired the house, tried to argue him out of his position.  Said he: "Budd, I don't see why you should be so squeamish here in California; why, you are worse than the old fogies at home.  The people will have liquor; somebody will supply the demand, at great profit, and I may as well do it and make money as anybody; and now I'll give you three hundred dollars per month for your house, and will take good care of it; and what does it matter to you what I use it for, if I return it in good order?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>Said Brother Budd, in reply: "My dear sir, the curse of God is hanging over this rum-traffic and all its abettors, and my policy is to stand from under."</P>
063.sgm:<P>He had no family, but being very anxious again to see his sisters and other kindred in the East, he wound up his business in 1853, and on his homeward passage sickened and died.  He was a great admirer of the ocean.  I have often heard him tell of the blessed seasons of communion with God he enjoyed in Costa Rica, as he strolled daily along the oceanshore from sunset till dark in quiet meditation.  When the sea shall give up her dead, L. F. Budd will beyond a doubt have a glorious resurrection.</P>
063.sgm:<P>ALEXANDER HATLER, from Missouri, one of my earliest and best California friends, with a heart full <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>J. B. BOND, son of Dr. Thomas E. Bond, deceased, did not make a loud profession of religion, and yet he was foremost in every good work, distributing tracts, visiting the sick, attending class, praying in the prayer-meetings, and giving his money freely to the Church and the poor.  We missed him greatly when he returned to New-York.</P>
063.sgm:<P>D. L. Ross, our "most excellent Theophilus," good humored and pious, a sincere lover of God and of Methodism, was one of the strongest pecuniary bulwarks of our Church enterprises in California.  We hoped to have retained him and his amiable wife; but after a few years they weighed anchor, and returned to New-York.  The Lord reward them here, and in the day of eternity give them a mansion in heaven.</P>
063.sgm:<P>R. P. SPIER (I will not call him an old bachelor, for he is not so old but that there is still hope in his case) is as pure and conscientious, I believe, as was Joseph in Egypt; very cautious and correct in everything he does, though better qualified for "bookseller and stationer" than governor of Egypt.  He went into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>WILLIAM HENRY CODINGTON, from Sing Sing, New-York, almost a beardless youth, opened a butcher-shop on Kearney-street.  Sabbath-breaking was almost universal throughout the land, and I don't suppose that any other butcher had as yet dreamed of keeping the Sabbath in California; but young Codington hung up in a prominent place in his shop this sign: "THIS MARKET CLOSED ON SUNDAYS."  I know several butchers who were then considered very wealthy, doing a great business seven days in the week, who have since gone into insolvency, and some of them into an untimely grave, while Brother Codington has acquired a handsome property, married a good wife to help in its enjoyment, and grown up a man of God, and a pillar in the Church.</P>
063.sgm:<P>ROBERT BEECHING, from New-York, had a hard time of it in crossing the plains.  The first Sunday morning after his arrival in San Francisco he met me at the church door, apologized for his rough appearance and threadbare clothing, and told me of his sufferings and reverses on his way to the land of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>I saw in him, at a glance, a man, a Christian, a gentleman, and, taking him by the hand, conducted him to the "highest seat in the synagogue."  He being a fine musician, some gamblers offered him thirty dollars per night if he would play in their saloon.  There he was, five thousand miles distant from his family, minus friends, money, and employment.  By playing an instrument, which was his delight even at home, he could make thirty dollars every night; how quickly he might make his "pile," return to his family, and do good with his money.  It was a well-circumstanced temptation, and he was almost led to a parley with the enemy.</P>
063.sgm:<P>That week, when he came to class at my house on Jackson-street, he related in the meeting the facts as above given, and said, "`Truly God is good to Israel, even to such as are of a clean heart.  But as for me, my feet were almost gone; my steps had well nigh slipped; for I was envious at the foolish, when I saw the prosperity of the wicked.'  I have thought, `Verily I have cleansed my heart in vain, and washed my hands in innocency.'  I have at least tried to serve God for many years; but in my great trials I seemed to be almost forsaken.  `Behold, these are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>His tall, manly form, flowing tears, sweet commanding voice, all contributed to produce an effect in the class-room which I cannot describe.  He then sang a triumphant song of Zion, which thrilled every heart.</P>
063.sgm:<P>ISAAC JONES was a Welsh local preacher, and by trade a printer.  He was employed in the office of the "Evening Picayune," and made a special agreement with the proprietor of that journal that he should never be called on to work on Sunday.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Some weeks afterward his employer said to him one Saturday night: "Jones, the steamer has just arrived, and we have so much new matter to set up that I want you to lend a hand with the boys, and set up a few thousand ems to-morrow."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"My dear sir," replied Jones, "I am willing to work till twelve o'clock to-night, and commence work again at one o'clock on Monday morning; but you know I told you in the commencement that it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>"O well, never mind, go on in your own way," said the proprietor.</P>
063.sgm:<P>A few weeks after his employer came in late one Saturday night, and said to him again: "Now, Jones, it's no use talking; you see what a quantity of matter we have to set up for the next issue, and a great deal of it must go in type to-morrow.  It has to be done, and you may just as well help to do it as for the other boys to do it all.  The fact is, I won't have a man about me unless he is willing to work at all times whenever he is needed.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Well," said Jones, "I shall be very sorry to lose my situation, for it is very expensive living here, and I am dependent on the daily labor of my hands for the support of my family; but if my continuance in your office and my support depend upon my working on the Sabbath, I'll beg my bread from door to door, or if need be I'll starve in the streets rather than desecrate God's holy day."</P>
063.sgm:<P>After bustling round among the type-stands a while, the proprietor replied: "Well, Jones, you are a good workman and an honest fellow, and I don't want you to leave me."  Jones's triumphant death, and that of his good wife, Mary, are noticed in my "Seven Years' Street Preaching in San Francisco," p. 353.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>WILLIAM PHILLIPS and his son JOHN were English hardware merchants, and true as steel.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I mention these "few names in Sardis, [California,] which have not defiled their garments," simply as specimen illustrations of a large class of sin-hating, God-fearing men in our first society in San Francisco, and of a noble band of martyr spirits to be found in perhaps all the early Church organizations of the country, of different denominations.  In popular esteem in those days religion was at a large discount.  There were no inducements to make a stalking-horse of religion; hence, hypocrites and milk-and-water Christians stood aloof.  Asa White and Colonel Allen from Kentucky, Robert Kellan, M. E. Willing, Calvin Lathrop, and James M'Gowan were our early local preachers in San Francisco.  Our early class-leaders were Richard T. Hoeg, Horace Hoag, and J. W. Bones.  William Gafney, now of the California Conference, and H. Hoag were exhorters.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Our second class in the Powell-street Charge was organized about January, 1850, and met every Tuesday evening at my house in Jackson-street.  We had glorious meetings there, in which souls were occasionally converted to God.  A small Sunday school was organized in our church in the fall of 1849, of which Robert Kellan was superintendent.  It was a weak and delicate plant in Zion, but we watered and cultivated it, and it lived and grew, and is now quite a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:tree, bearing fruit to the glory of God.  As was before mentioned, Rev. William Roberts, missionary, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"MONTEREY, <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"DEAR SIR:--I hereby send to you the library of primary Sunday-school books, of which I spoke when at San Francisco.  They were found yesterday, and the captain of the Commodore Shubrick, I expect, will bring them to you without charge.  There are one hundred and three volumes of books, one dozen cards, and one dozen catechisms, and also one register or receiving-book.  These books are the property of the Sunday School Union of the Methodist Episcopal Church, and I place them in your hands for the use of the school under your care, with the hope that God's blessing may rest upon this effort to bless the youth of the land.<LB>"I am yours respectfully</P>
063.sgm:<P>"WILLIAM ROBERTS."</P>
063.sgm:<P>That Sunday school, numbering about twenty scholars, was kept up, as Mr. Merrill informed me, through the summer of 1847, soon after which gold was discovered, which caused a general stampede of both <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"<HI REND="italics">January</HI>
063.sgm:<P>.--On last evening I preached in our chapel to about thirty persons, and held a watch-meeting.  Though our meeting was not large, it was an occasion of great interest.  After sermon, from the text, "What shall I render unto the Lord for all his benefits toward me?  I will take the cup of salvation, and call upon the name of the Lord.  I will pay my vows unto the Lord now in the presence of all his people," we occupied some time in the relation of Christian experience.  A majority of all present spoke of the benefits they had received at the hands of God during the past year, and especially while encountering the dangers of the deep or of the desert.  The exercises were concluded as the new year was being ushered in, by solemnly singing on our knees the covenant hymn:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Come, let us use the grace Divine,<LB>And all, with one accord,<LB>In a perpetual covenant join<LB>Ourselves to Christ the Lord," etc.<LB></HI>
063.sgm:<P>HYMN 1054, Methodist Hymn Book.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>About this time the "Methodist Company," in the ship Arkansas, Captain Shepherd, arrived.  According to their advertisement in New-York, the company was to be composed entirely of Methodists, and many joined it with that understanding, thinking it the rarest chance that ever was to get to California without being brought into contact with the wicked rabble that mixed in with promiscuous companies.  But when they got out to sea and gathered the flock together, they soon found that the goats outnumbered the sheep.  The voyage, socially and morally, was by no means a pleasant one; and I have no doubt that many of them adopted St. Paul's conclusion: that to be freed "altogether" from "fornicators, covetous, extortioners, or idolaters," "then must ye needs go out of the world."  The night of their arrival in the port of San Francisco, before they could land, a heavy gale caught their ship, which dragged her anchors, and was carried by the violence of the storm till she struck Bird Island.  There they were in midnight darkness, thumping among the breakers; and for a time they thought the whole ship's company must perish right there in their destined port; but by cutting away the masts they finally succeeded in saving the hull, cargo, and passengers.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The captain was subsequently known in San Francisco as Judge Shepherd.  He brought a few very mean men to California; but also some as noble and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:good, perhaps, as ever landed in that port; such men, for example, as Calvin Lathrop, who for seven years was favorably known in California in the various relations of minister of the Gospel, Bible-class leader, gold digger, and clerk, and who filled so efficiently and satisfactorily for years the office of publishing agent of the <HI REND="italics">California Christian Advocate</HI>
063.sgm:<P>It was several weeks after my arrival in San Francisco before I heard anything of my fellow-missionary, Rev. Isaac Owen, who had started with his family "across the plains" about the time I sailed from Baltimore.  I felt great solicitude for his welfare, having heard much of the hazards of the overland route to California.  After a few weeks, however, my mind was relieved by the news of his safe arrival in Sacramento City.  Nearly four months had now elapsed, and yet we had not seen each other, neither having had time to visit the other.  Friday, the fourth of January, 1850, found me making preparations to go to Sacramento City to see my colleague.  First, I had to provide for my pulpit the Sabbath I should be absent, and I found a supply in James M'Gowan and M. E. Willing, local preachers, lately arrived in the ship Arkansas.  Second, I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Wood in the market was forty dollars per cord, and very poor stuff at that.  I couldn't afford to burn wood at those rates.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The sand hills back of where I lived had been thickly covered with evergreen scrub oaks, but they had all been cut off, clean as a newly-mown meadow.  I, however, took my ax and went to work on a stump, and soon found, to my agreeable surprise, that more than half the tree was under ground; that the great roots spread out horizontally just under the surface; so I had a good supply of wood at the simple cost of cutting, and loading it on my wheel-barrow and rolling it home.  I had made a rare discovery, but, like the darkey who first struck the rich gold lead in "Negro hill," I soon had plenty of men to share my fortune.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The said colored man, I am told, went into the mines to dig some gold for himself, and thinking the "diggins" all free for everybody, he struck into the first good-looking place he came to.  Presently along came a rough-looking miner, who said, angrily, "What are you doing there in my claim, you black rascal?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"O massa, I didn't know dis are your claim!"</P>
063.sgm:<P>He then went off a little way, and saw a hole in which he thought he might find gold, so he jumped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>"Get out o' my hole, you cursed nigger, or I'll knock your head off!"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Lor'sa, massa, me didn't know dis are your hole!  Good Lor'sa, massa, where must I go?</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Go up on the top of that hill, and dig," replied the miner, not dreaming that there was gold there; for as yet the value of hill diggings had not been found out.</P>
063.sgm:<P>But the poor old colored man went on the hill, and "sunk a shaft," (just like digging a well,) and wrought there several months, when it was discovered that he had struck a "rich lead," and was taking out the "big lumps."  He then soon had plenty of company to share in his rich discoveries.  The hill was afterward known as "Negro hill," and has yielded hundreds of thousands of dollars.</P>
063.sgm:<P>By Friday night I had my arrangements all made for an early start next morning for Sacramento City.</P>
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063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.<LB>MISSIONARY LIFE--CONTINUED.</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P>ON Saturday, January 5, 1850, at 7 o'clock A. M., I embarked on the steamer Senator for Sacramento City, a distance of one hundred and twenty-five miles.  As we ascended the Sacramento River we saw a large band of elk.  They ran along the bank of the river in our direction several hundred yards, seeming as desirous to look at us as we were to look at them.  On the sharp crack of a rifle in the hands of one of our passengers they changed their course, and gave us a wider berth, and soon disappeared in their own wild woods.  A buck elk, with a head of full-grown horns, leaping over the hills, is a majestic looking animal.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Arriving in Sacramento City at 7 o'clock P. M., I was conducted by a stranger through one vast mud-hole of nearly half a mile to the house of Dr. Grove W. Deal.  I had known the doctor well in Baltimore, and loved him much; saw him about a year before embark for California in the schooner Sovereign, via Panama, and often, during a tedious voyage round Cape Horn, comforted myself with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<illus entity="a063-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SACRAMENTO CITY.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>There I received a hearty welcome, and found a noble-hearted, jovial set of fellows, and there we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>I will not attempt to give a history of Brother Owen. Dr. Thurston, who, for the last five years, has been gathering materials in California for a book, asked Brother Owen to give him a sketch of his life for his book.  After looking over a list of autobiographic notices in the doctor's book, by different ministers, and observing that special reference was made to the cities in which they had lived, and the colleges in which they had graduated, he penned something like the following: "Isaac Owen was born in Vermont, raised in Coon range on White River, in the wilderness of Indiana; costumed in buckskin, fed on pounded cake; educated in a log school-house.  First book, Webster's spelling-book; first lesson in two syllables, commencing with `Baker.'  Converted in the woods, licensed to preach on a log; first circuit, then called Otter Creek Mission, embraced a part of five counties.  Last heard of, a missionary in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>He is a man of indomitable energy and perseverance.  I once heard Bishop Morris say of him that "Owen never gives up; he always does what he undertakes; if he can't do it one way he will another."  He is apt in expedient in every emergency.  He says he never was lost but once, and that was when a little boy.  He was away in the wilderness alone; night was settling down upon him; the woods were full of wolves, wild cats, and panthers; and he knew not which way to go.  After a little cogitation an expedient struck him.  He cut a rod, caught his dog, and gave him a severe flogging, then letting the dog go, he instinctively cut for home as fast as he could run, and young Owen after him at the top of his speed.  He thus got his bearings, and safely reached home a little after dark.</P>
063.sgm:<P>He says he never was in "straitened circumstances" but once.  He had been out on a hunt, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Brother Owen is one of the greatest beggars in the world.  He was for five years the agent of the Indiana Asbury University; so that besides natural talent for it, he is thoroughly skilled in the business.  When he thinks a certain portion of a man's money ought to be appropriated to a special church enterprise in which he is engaged, (and he always has one such on hand,) and gets after him, that man had just as well, like old Dan Boone's coon, give up at once.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Rev. James Corwin had been a member of the same conference (Indiana) with Brother Owen, and located to accompany him to California, first, to help him with his family across the plains, and, secondly, to enter into the itinerant work with him on the Pacific.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>He is a preacher of medium talent, faithful as a pastor, acceptable to the people, and very useful, not only in getting sinners converted, but in building churches and parsonages.  He has no family of his own, but builds for those who have.  After helping Brother Owen to build a parsonage for his family in Sacramento City, he took an appointment, and has been in the regular work ever since.</P>
063.sgm:<P>On the Sabbath morning above referred to, at Brother Owen's request, I preached to a full house, from, "God commendeth his love toward us, in that, while we were yet sinners, Christ died for us."  Brother Owen preached at three P.M., and I again in the evening.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The next day the doctor and I dined with Brother Owen's family, and a sumptuous dinner it was, too; roast pork, sweet potatoes, and a variety of good things, hardly to be expected in California at that day.  Brother Owen and wife had hardly recovered from the wear and tear of their long journey across the plains.  They had a hard time in getting to California, and a sad reverse after their arrival.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Though I could hear nothing of them for several weeks after my arrival, they had reached the northern part of the territory about the same time that I reached San Francisco; and he preached near where the town of Grass Valley is now located, on the same Sabbath in which I commenced operations in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:Bay city.  Thence he came on by land as far as Benicia, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
063.sgm:<P>When they got to Sacramento City, therefore, they were destitute of everything but the rough traveling clothes in which they appeared.  They lived for a short time in a small tent, but Brother O. soon got able to move around among the people, and went to work with his usual zeal.</P>
063.sgm:<P>In a short time the chapel was up and ready for use, and he was at the time of my visit in a new parsonage, that cost about five thousand dollars.  The society was in prosperous condition, and they had pledged themselves to give their minister a salary of four thousand dollars; one thousand dollars of which, however, Brother Owen appropriated toward the payment for the parsonage.</P>
063.sgm:<P>We walked and talked together for several days, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:and laid the basis of an intimate and solid mutual friendship, which has remained unbroken to the present time, and will, I have no doubt, last forever  We also matured plans for future operations.  A book depository was to be established, and the country supplied with a pure religious literature; academies and a university were to be founded for the education of the rising generation; but at present we had to explore, and organize societies, so far as possible, without neglecting the charges to which we had been appointed.  We agreed that I should, in addition to my work in San Francisco, travel south to San Jose&acute; and Santa Cruz, and organize societies; and that he should do what he could north of San Francisco, and thus prepare the way for other missionaries.  We spent a part of Wednesday, the ninth of January, in Dr. Deal's upper room; and in the afternoon, when we came down to return to the parsonage, lo! a river came rolling down the street, meeting us.  Half the city was already submerged, and the swelling flood hasted to bury the remainder.  A wagon happened to pass near us at that moment, and Brother Owen paid the driver two dollars to take him a couple of blocks, whence he got a boatman to ferry him home.  I took refuge in the doctor's house till after tea; but as the tide was still rising, and as I preferred to go to sea in a boat rather than a house, I commended my Baltimore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>The scene next morning is briefly described in my journal as follows:</P>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"<HI REND="italics">Thursday, January</HI>
063.sgm:<P>--This morning I went up on the foretop of a store-ship anchored near our steamer, to take a survey of an entire city under water.  I could not discover a single speck of land in sight, except a little spot of a few feet on the levee near our boat.  The boatmen were navigating the streets in whale boats in every direction."</P>
063.sgm:<P>That day I returned to San Francisco, accompanied by Brother Corwin, who was on his way to Stockton, where he organized a society, and built a church and parsonage, partly by subscription and in part by his own hands; he, like the great Prophet of Nazareth, being a carpenter as well as a preacher.</P>
063.sgm:<P>We paid for our meals aboard the Senator two dollars each; the price of a state-room for one night was ten dollars; the fare alone from San Francisco to Sacramento City was thirty dollars.  Charles Minturn, the agent in San Francisco, gave me a free passage up; and through the mediation of Captain Gelson I obtained a similar favor in Sacramento City, by which on that single trip I saved sixty dollars.  Brother Corwin, however, not being considered exactly in the regular succession, had to pay his fare.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>Captain Gelson, as one of the owners of the steamer M'Kim, that plied between the two cities named, offered a free passage to all <HI REND="italics">regular</HI>
063.sgm:<P>It was said, for example, that a man took passage on a Sacramento boat for himself and a lot of mules.  When the captain demanded his fare he replied.  "O, I'm a preacher, sir."  "Indeed!" said the captain, and, pointing to the mules, inquired, "and are these preachers, too?"  The fellow had to "walk up to the captain's office and settle."  In consequence of these abuses the company passed a resolution making it necessary for all ministers wishing to travel on their boats to apply to the president of the company, who would, on the evidence that they were ministers, give them a free ticket.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>Upon the whole, the liberality of California steamboat companies toward ministers of the Gospel stands unrivaled in the history of steamboat navigation, and has saved to the preachers (all of them poor enough in regard to means) an expense in traveling amounting to an aggregate of thousands of dollars.  Stage proprietors in California have also shown a commendable liberality in the same way.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The Sacramento flood prevailed for days, bearing on its heaving bosom the tents and small buildings of the city, and a large proportion of their stock, consisting principally of horses, mules, cows, and oxen, which had been brought over the plains by hundreds.  There was but little opportunity of saving the stock, because the valley, for the width of several miles, and in length for more than a hundred miles, was an unbroken sea of waters.  The dwellers of the inundated city took refuge in the second stories of the few houses that remained, and in boats, and in the vessels that lay at anchor in the river.  Our Baltimore chapel was carried from its foundations into the street, but not seriously injured.  Brother Owen and family, after a few days' imprisonment in the upper story of their parsonage, determined to move to San Jose&acute; Valley, a distance of one hundred and seventy-five miles, and seek a place of residence on dry land.  Sacramento City was inundated two or three times, which led to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>On the 17th of January Brother Owen and family arrived in San Francisco, on their way to San Jose&acute; Valley.  To give themselves some time for recuperation and preparations for their new home in San Jose&acute;, they made a temporary settlement in "Asa White's house with the blue cover," which, naturally enough, in view of the migratory character of its owners, was vacant at that time.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Having Brother Owen in the city to fill my pulpit, I embraced the opportunity to fulfill a promise to visit San Jose&acute; and Santa Cruz.  Mrs. Taylor being out of health, and having the care of her babes and household duties, I thought it necessary to get some one to assist her during my absence.  A Sister Merchant, an old maiden lady, had arrived a few weeks before, having made the voyage of Cape Horn, passing the dreary hours of the trip in composing <HI REND="italics">poetry</HI>
063.sgm:.  She was sincerely pious, no doubt, and uttered many shrewd and sensible sayings; and yet it was evident that somewhere in her mental constitution there was a screw loose; still she was regarded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Mrs. Taylor tells the following in regard to one of this class:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I said to a missionary on arriving, whose delicate wife seemed ill-fitted for the labor and toil of pioneer life, `You will have to help do the washing.'  `Not I,' replied the brother; and to my certain knowledge he never did.  How appropriate!  how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Sister Merchant was very much pleased with the idea of living in the preacher's family--always loved the preachers and their wives.  She had been sick, but had fully recovered, and was ready "to take all the work off Mrs. Taylor, and nurse the baby too."  I thought myself highly favored in getting my pulpit and my family so well provided for during my contemplated absence of two weeks, and myself well provided with a traveling companion in the person of Brother J. Bennett, an exhorter in our Church, who was then on his way from the mines in Coloma to his family in Santa Cruz.  On Saturday, January 19th, at half past nine A.M., we took passage aboard a little steamer for San Jose&acute;; distance, fifty miles, forty-two by water and eight by land; fare, twenty-five dollars each on the steamer, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>We reached the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Several American families, principally from Kentucky and Missouri, had settled there as early as 1846, and others later; in all now numbering about thirty, among whom were several Methodist families, namely: William and Thomas Campbell, and families, Captain Joseph Aram, a member of the convention that framed the constitution of the state, and family.  Old Mr. Young was not then a Methodist, but his wife was, and their house was the preaching-place and the preacher's home.  Charles Campbell, a local preacher, had been preaching there regularly for several months.  Several Cumberland Presbyterian families also united with us, until such time as it might be practicable for them to organize for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>That night I preached at Mr. Young's again, and many rejoiced with tears that the long desired day had come, when they should hear the voice of a regular minister, and be gathered into a fold, and receive the ordinances of the Lord's house.  The next day Brother Bennet and I tried to get a horse to carry us over the creeks and rivers, and assist us on our way to Santa Cruz; distance, thirty miles by mule trail across the rugged coast-range of mountains.  We might have walked, but did not like to wade the streams; and besides, Brother Bennet had a heavy "miner's pack," which we had carried alternately the Saturday night before until we thought it decidedly cheaper to employ the aid of a little horse-power.  We found that the cheapest rate at which we could hire a horse was eight dollars per day, and as I did not expect to return for ten days, a very short calculation convinced us that "that would not pay."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Finally we succeeded in buying, for eighty dollars, a young red horse, very poor, hair all turned the wrong way, his mane pulled out by the roots, and his head nearly off.  He had been tied to a mule, which ran away with him, and dragged him half a mile by the neck; and really, if he had not been a better horse than his appearance indicated, it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>However illustrious the line of itinerant horses in California may become, let it be remembered that the specimen we have exhibited is the head of the succession, the <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
063.sgm:<P>There were at the time of our purchase plenty of good horses out on the plains, but not available in time for our purposes; so we did the best we could.  In the afternoon we rigged up our young charger to go on our journey a few miles, and lodge at the house of William Campbell.  When we got to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Arriving at Brother Campbell's at nightfall, we immediately sent out an appointment for preaching that night, and got in all the neighborhood, consisting of three families and six travelers, and had a good meeting.</P>
063.sgm:<P>After preaching we went and spent the night with Asa Finley and family.  They treated us with great kindness, and gave us an early breakfast of chickens and eggs, reputed to be a favorite dish with the preachers; the first and only place where I received such fare in California for nearly two years.  The mountain scenery of that day's travel was beautiful, and grand beyond description.  Now a grove of redwood trees of immense size, and now a vast field of wild oats, cut in every direction with the trails of deer and grizzly bears.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Crossing the foot-hills we passed a large herd of sheep, guarded by a shepherd's dog, who alone had the care of the flock.  He kept between us and his sheep, and gave us to understand, by his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Those dogs are very common in California, and guard the sheep committed to their care with ceaseless vigilance day and night.  But for them the coyotes, which are very numerous, would make dreadful havoc among the sheep.  I heard of a California dog that took special care of the weak lambs of his flock, and was frequently seen to pick up the lagging lamb, and carry it in his mouth to its mother.  Such illustrious examples in the canine tribe excite feelings of profound contempt against those lazy dogs that do nothing but eat, and sleep, and snap at the children.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Ascending to the mountain summit, the view was enchanting.  Looking eastward we saw the splendid valley of San Jose&acute;, adorned in its beautiful new dress of green, spotted over with large bands of cattle, horses, mules, and sheep.  Looking westward, over mountain peaks, foot-hills, and valleys, a distance of twelve or fifteen miles, there lay the great Pacific, spread out in silent grandeur as far as our ken could scan the horizon, and six thousand miles beyond.  Night overtook us in the mountains; and, having no moonlight, we had no small difficulty in finding our way out.</P>
063.sgm:<P>At Santa Cruz I found a class of about twenty members, among whom were four local preachers.  One of the preachers was a young man of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>On Saturday, at eleven A. M., I preached in the house of Elihu Anthony from, "Therefore, leaving the principles of the doctrine of Christ, let us go on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>After preaching that night, two of Brother Bennet's daughters presented themselves as seekers of religion, the first female penitents I had seen in California.  I made a plan of preaching appointments for the local preachers, and left the work in their hands till I should return in the spring.  I was much pleased with my visit.  Santa Cruz is a delightful place, situated on the north side of Monterey Bay, enjoying a pleasant sea-breeze, in the midst of one of the most fertile spots in the country.  The American portion of the population at that time was composed principally of families who had settle there before the gold discovery, and had their children growing up around them, and hence the place <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>On Tuesday, the 29th of January, I retraced my steps alone over the mountains to San Jose&acute; Valley.  It rained on me the whole day, and for several hours in the morning the fog was so dense that I was in great doubt as to what direction I was steering.  The narrow mountain path was in many places very steep, slippery, and dangerous.  In one such place my little horse fell down, and finding that he was on the eve of taking a roll down the mountain, I sprang off on the upper side, and let him have his roll to himself.  Such a slide would probably have killed a common horse, but the little fellow was very tough, and like some unpromising young preachers I have seen, there was a great deal of "out-come" in him, for I learned he afterward made a fine horse.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I met two Spaniards on the mountain, who asked me for matches, and wanted me to stop and talk, but I did not like the looks of the fellows much, and made no tarrying.  By the time I got through the mountains night overtook me, and that part of the valley being a vast sea of water and mud, I lost my way.  In trying to find Brother Finley's place, I came to an Indian hut, and had a great fight with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"Well, boys, let's go to bed."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Agreed," responded another.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Said I: "Gentlemen, if you've no objections, I propose that we have a word of prayer together before we retire."</P>
063.sgm:<P>They looked at each other and at me a moment, in evident surprise, when the bar-keeper, who was standing behind his bar, waiting an opportunity to sell to each fellow a retiring "nip" for twenty-five cents per head, said:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I suppose, sir, there's no objection."</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"Thank you, sir," said I, and added: "And now let us all kneel down, as we used to do with the old folks at home, and ask the Lord for his blessing."</P>
063.sgm:<P>I believe that every gambler of them kneeled down, as humbly as children, and I had a blessed season in praying for them, and for their mothers and sisters, whom they might or might not ever again see on mortal shores; but that the wandering adventurers in California, with their mothers and sisters at home, might all give their hearts to God, believe in Jesus, and be prepared for a happy greeting on the other shore, and a home in heaven.</P>
063.sgm:<P>They took no more <HI REND="italics">nips</HI>
063.sgm:<P>On Thursday morning I started for San Francisco, distance fifty miles, through mud and water, a great part of the way, up to my horse's knees.  I passed Whisman's before noon, the only public house on the road, or private one either, except two or three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>About nine o'clock at night I reached San Franciskito Creek, which was booming and overspreading its banks.  It made such a roaring and crashing that I tried in vain to get my horse into it, and the darkness was so dense that I could not tell where I was to land if he had gone in.  Turning back I saw a light not far distant, and, approaching, found it to be a hunter's camp, occupied by three men, two of whom were very drunk.  They granted me permission to lodge with them, that is, to warm by their fire, and sleep on the ground in a blanket they loaned me.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I staked my horse out to grass; for though the valley was flooded, it was covered with new grass, about eight inches high, and returning to the fire, the drunker man of the two met me, and said, "I want to have a word with you," and, staggering round behind the tent, he took my arm, and said, "Stranger, you mustn't mind anything that man there may say to you.  He's a clever feller, but he's pretty drunk to-night.  Stranger, you mustn't mind him."</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>After I seated myself by the fire the three men told their experience.  The details were too horrible to be repeated.  When they got through they wanted me to tell mine: so I gave them a little of my experience.</P>
063.sgm:<P>As I proceeded they stared at me, and finally one of them said, "You're a preacher, ain't you?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Yes," I replied; "I pass for one."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"O, good Lord, didn't ye catch us?" said they, with sundry apologies for their vulgar talk in the presence of a preacher. "We didn't dream that there was a preacher in the country."</P>
063.sgm:<P>After that they gave me extra attention, and I left them, after an early breakfast, feeling that I owed them a debt of gratitude, and homeward I went, expecting to find Mrs. Taylor quite recruited in health by the opportune aid of good Sister Merchant.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P>MISSIONARY LIFE--CONTINUED.<LB>ON my return from Santa Cruz I learned that Sister Merchant, instead of being servant in the family, had assumed to be mistress, and had all hands, with a neighboring family added, to wait on her.  The day after I left, by some means, <HI REND="italics">several more screws</HI>
063.sgm:<P>She took possession of an upper room, which had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>At that time we had no asylum for the insane in California, and yet such was the constant overstretching of mind and muscle, that a great many persons became deranged, and their condition was indeed deplorable.  Some such were sent to the hospitals, some to the "Prison Brig," and some were confined in private outhouses, with about as much care as a wild animal would command.  I remember one in the hospital who thought he was in prison and was suffering, and verbally detailing all the horrors of false imprisonment, dragged away from his family, and imprisoned for life, without ever letting him know with what offense he was charged.  He wept and bewailed his desolate condition, nobody to plead his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>When I would assure him that he was not in prison, but being unwell he was placed in that house, which the city had kindly provided for sick strangers, for medical treatment, and that he would soon be well, and could then go and see his family, "O, is that it!  O, I'm so glad!  I'm so glad!"  he would rejoice a minute, and then slide back into his hopeless prison.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Another I used to see in the hospital, said he was Daniel Webster's private secretary.  He was always cheerful, and polite as a French dancing-master.  He was constantly receiving company.  "Good morning, Commodore Perry.  I'm very happy to see you so unexpectedly.  Walk in, walk in, commodore.  Give me your cap, and be seated.  I'll call Mr. Webster.  I know he'll be delighted to see you.  He was speaking of you only this morning at the breakfast table.  I was just reading, commodore, as you came to the door, one of your dispatches from the seat of war.  That was a dreadful fight you had with the Philistines!  The American navy never had such a contest before, and never before achieved so glorious a victory!  All glory to the American navy!  all honor to Commodore Perry!  Let the stars and stripes float forever!  I say."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Those two poor fellows were both harmless, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>But I used to see a man who was considered dangerous.  He was tightly laced in a strait-jacket, and bound down to the ground floor of a basement room in the hospital, dark, damp, cold, and cheerless as <HI REND="italics">Hades</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Poor fellow, how I pitied him in my very soul!</P>
063.sgm:<P>A Captain B. was taken to a hospital near where I lived, and was confined in a stable.  He complained of very bad treatment, and at all hours we could hear his ravings.  He tore off his own clothes, and must have suffered from cold.  Mrs. Arington living near, getting permission of the doctor to visit the captain, and give him his meals occasionally, took him in hand, and treated him kindly; he ceased his ravings, and spent much of his time in lauding the dear woman who became his friend when he had none.  He subsequently recovered.</P>
063.sgm:<P>In January, 1852, a state Lunatic Asylum was commenced in the city of Stockton, which has since received annual appropriations by the State Legislature for improvements, and for the cure of the insane.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The appropriations for the year 1854 amounted to one hundred and fifty-three thousand dollars.  Eighty thousand of that amount was for the erection of a main building, which is thus described in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"The main building, just erected and finished, is a brick structure, seventy feet square, three stories high.  The first story is fifteen feet in the clear, contains eight rooms and two halls, fourteen feet wide.  The second story is twelve feet in the clear, contains sixteen rooms, with halls same as in the first story.  The third story is eleven feet in the clear, contains eighteen rooms, with halls same as in the lower stories.  There is a ventilator in every room, flues in all the rooms in the first story, and in all the principal rooms in the second and third stories.  The height of the top of the spire from the ground is one hundred and nine feet, and height of top of pediment from the ground is sixty-one feet."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Table IV of said report, "shows the number of admissions, recoveries, discharges, deaths, and the number remaining in the hospital at the close of each year since the organization of the institution," up to the close of 1854:</P>
063.sgm:<P>A German gardener came to me, saying "that he had hired himself for a year, at a hundred dollars per <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"We must have it," said they, "and if you don't give it up peaceably, we'll take it by force."</P>
063.sgm:<P>The sick babe was crying in the kitchen, the crazy woman was singing and shouting up stairs, and there were two savage-looking men contending against one sick woman.  Mrs. Taylor replied: "I told you before that the paper was in that trunk, and I can't get it.  If it is your mind to break open the trunk, you do it at your own risk," and with that she left them, and went to her babe.  They then broke open my trunk by knocking the bottom out of it, and after rummaging through all my papers, letters, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The old fellow dropped on his knees, and weeping like a whipped child, begged us to kill him; said he had "never been arrested for any offense in his life, had always tried to support a good character, and now in his old days to be put into the chain-gang was worse than death."  So we had compassion on him, and after further admonition dismissed the case.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>On going through the hospital, on my return, I was shocked to see what sad havoc death had made among the poor fellows with whom I had sympathized and prayed the day before I left the city.  Having added a horse to the number of my family cares, I had occasion to take some new lessons in California prices.  Bought a sack of barley, one hundred and fifty pounds, for fifteen dollars.  Bought a hundred pounds of hay, miserable stuff too, for fifteen dollars, and carried it all home on my horse at one load.  But having promised to preach occasionally at San Jose&acute; and Santa Cruz, and take the pastoral oversight of them, I found it cheaper to keep a horse, even at those rates, than to pay the enormous fare of public conveyances.</P>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">February</HI>
063.sgm: 10 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Brother Owen and I, assisted by a few brethren, dug the foundation, and commenced the erection of a small book-room, adjoining our church on Powell-street.  Carpenters' wages were so enormously high, twelve dollars per day, that we did most of the work with our own hands.  Brother Owen, after his appointment to the missionary work in California, spent some time in collecting funds and books, and shipped for California about two thousand dollars' worth of books.  They arrived per ship Arkansas, and on January 16th, 1850, I got them ashore, paying for lighterage five dollars per ton--fifteen dollars.  They were discharged from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>While Brother Owen's family still occupied Father White's shanty in San Francisco, their little daughter, two years old, took croup, or something similar, and on February 13th died.  It was a beautiful child, and having carried it over the plains, it had become <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Brother Owen built a small one-story house, half a mile east of the town of San Jose&acute;, into which he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>On the 2nd of March, 1850, while I was at work in the book-room, Brother Troubody and a good-looking stranger came in, and I was introduced for the first time to Rev. William Roberts, our superintendent.  The great pleasure of meeting a fellow-laborer, experienced by those in distant fields, where such meetings are like angel visits, can hardly be conceived by any but the subjects of it.  Brother Roberts put up with us, and occupied our prophet's room.  We felt it a great privilege to enjoy his company, not only on account of the novelty of it, but especially because he is a Christian gentleman of high order--one of the Lord's noblemen.  He preached in our chapel at eleven A. M. next day, from, "Whosoever shall confess me before men, him shall the Son of man also confess before the angels of God."  It was a pointed, practical sermon, which was to me as manna to the hungry soul.  He preached again at night an excellent sermon on the witness of the Spirit.  That day, at three P.M., I preached, from a pile of lumber on Mission-street, the funeral sermon of William H.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"Little boy, what's the matter with you?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Daddy's dead, and I don't know what to do with him!"</P>
063.sgm:<P>The lad conducted the man into a small tent, and there lay his dead father all alone.  It was said that he owned a farm in Missouri, and had plenty of friends at home; but lingered and died, unknown to any but his little boy.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The circumstances attending the protracted illness of Brother Stevens were most distressing; but he was triumphant over all by the grace of Jesus, and said when dying, "Tell my wife I die in peace, and go home to heaven.  I expect to meet her and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Brother Roberts spent nearly four weeks in California at that time, two Sabbaths in San Francisco, and the rest of his time in Stockton and Sacramento City.  He sailed for Oregon on the 29th of March.  On the same day I made my second visit to San Jose&acute;, accompanied by my family.</P>
063.sgm:<P>We were met on our arrival by our old friend, Dr. Grove W. Deal, who was a representative from Sacramento in the Territorial Legislature, then in session in San Jose&acute;.  The doctor filled his seat in the Legislature during the week, and preached the Gospel to his fellow-law-makers on the Sabbath.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I shall not attempt to report the good which he may have accomplished there, except to say that a bill for the incorporation of Church property was presented, in which it was provided that the trustees should be elected by the society, and the doctor had it so amended as to recognize any board of trustees duly elected or <HI REND="italics">appointed</HI>
063.sgm:<P>I saw an example six years afterward, of the practical importance of that amendment.  An effort was made in a lawsuit to ignore the legal existence of a Methodist board of trustees.  The lawyer on the other side said:</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"This is not a legal board of trustees, because they never were duly elected by the society."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"True," replied another, "they were not elected by the society, but they were duly appointed by the preacher in charge."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Yes," answered the other, "but, according to the statute, they must be <HI REND="italics">elected by the society</HI>
063.sgm:<P>He had not read the statute lately, if ever, and did not know that when it was being molded it had passed through the hands of a Methodist preacher.  He was then requested to read the statute, and he found, to his disappointment, that it decided against him the point on which he had hung all his hopes of success in the suit.</P>
063.sgm:<P>On Saturday the 30th, I accompanied Doctor Deal to the Assembly Hall, and witnessed the election of the first district judges in the territory.  Next day I preached at Mr. Young's, and also in the Senate Chamber.  After preaching in the morning we had a blessed class-meeting.  A Frenchman and his Spanish wife were in class, and upon Brother C. Campbell's recommendation were admitted into society on probation.  They soon afterward moved away, and I know not what became of them.</P>
063.sgm:<P>On Monday, April 1, I opened a subscription for the erection of a Methodist Episcopal Church in San Jose&acute;.  That was election day there for county officers, and hence a day of great excitement in town, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>I was abroad among the people making interest for my new church enterprise, but would not turn my head to see the race, which to many was matter of as great surprise as my apparent want of interest in the shark catching on my voyage to California.</P>
063.sgm:<P>One Sunday, in the South Pacific, just after preaching, I was seated on deck reading the Bible, when lo, a cry, "A shark! a shark!"  All hands ran abaft to see the great man-eater of the deep.  Many said to me as they passed, "Come and see the shark; he's a rouser."  Several baited hooks were thrown out, swallowed, and bitten off.  At one time they hooked it, and drew it up to the taffrail, when the line broke, and down it dropped.  Finally they harpooned it, and, in the midst of universal shouting and hurraing, it was drawn aboard.  It was a huge monster.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Colonel Myers returning from the scene, said to me, as I sat still reading the word,</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Did you not see the shark?"</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"No, sir," said I.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Why, not?"  said he, with great surprise.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I was engaged," replied I, "in reading the word of the Lord, which to me is of more importance than shark killing, especially on the Sabbath;" and added: "Colonel, if I were engaged in conference with a king on important business, and should in the midst of his conversation, on the occurrence of some trivial excitement, catching a shark, for example, jump up and leave him abruptly, I would be treating him with great disrespect, would I not?  I have just been reading a message from, and holding a conversation with the GREAT KING, and I think to stop short and run away to see a fish killed on this his holy day, would not be treating him with becoming courtesy."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"True," said he; "that's consistent; you're right."</P>
063.sgm:<P>So in the great horse-race excitement I was engaged in preparing to build a house for the Lord; and I did not wish to give countenance to such entertainments.</P>
063.sgm:<P>After spending a couple of days in San Jose&acute; solicting for our new church, and getting on subscription about two thousand dollars, I returned to San Francisco.  My visit to the hospital the day after my return is thus noted in my journal:</P>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"<HI REND="italics">April</HI>
063.sgm:<P>--Visited hospital this P.M. Eight or ten persons have died during my brief <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"Poor M., one of the men I rescued from the other hospital, (see "Seven Years' Street Preaching in San Francisco," etc., p. 66,) died cursing and swearing in the bitterest despair.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"D. is an honest-looking pioneer, a man of good common sense and information; has been religiously educated, has a Methodist wife at home, but is sinking to the grave without salvation.  He says: "It's so presumptuous, now that I'm dying, to offer myself to God; I cannot do it.  It is impossible for me to receive pardon!"</P>
063.sgm:<P>These are but specimens of a various multitude of cases.  The day after the above was penned I was called to see Dr. G.  He lay in a small shanty on a sand hill, near what is now the corner of Montgomery and Pine streets; and as his case will illustrate the condition of hundreds whom I have seen encounter death on those distant shores, I will give a brief description of it.</P>
063.sgm:<P>He was an intelligent man, had been favored with good literary and religious educational advantages, had a pious wife at home; but there he was, an isolated stranger among strangers, reduced to penury, far gone with chronic diarrhea, utterly dispirited, no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>I urged him to seek God's favor, and trust in the merits of Jesus.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Too late now," said he; "I have been so presumptuous and wicked there's no hope for me.  I sometimes catch at something that inspires a little hope, but again lose my hold, and all is darkness.  There appears to be a thick vail between God and my soul; a bar that I cannot get over.  I feel that when I leave this world I shall have <HI REND="italics">no home and no employment</HI>
063.sgm:<P>I talked, and sung, and prayed, and did everything I could to inspire a hope in the poor fellow's heart, in the light of which he might find his way to the cross of Jesus, but all without effect.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>At another time when I called to see him, for I saw him frequently, he said:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I have been trying since you were here to seek Jesus, but I cannot find him."</P>
063.sgm:<P>When I represented to him the mercy of God in Christ, he replied:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"God has given me commandments to keep, but I have broken them all my life.  I often felt guilt and sorrow for my sins, but did the same things again, and now God has gone from me."</P>
063.sgm:<P>I then gave him the Saviour's illustration of importunity in seeking, and his encouraging command and promise: "Ask and ye shall receive; seek and ye shall find; knock, and it shall be opened unto you."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I fain would ask," replied he; "but when I try I talk to vacancy, I find not the ear of God; I know not how to seek, and I cannot find the place to knock."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Alas!  thought I, poor Esau; birthright gone, and no place for repentance.  How my soul pitied him.  I then said, "O my dear brother, you must not give yourself up to despair."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"It has given itself to me," said he; "it covers my soul with the pall of death, and overwhelms me in darkness without hope."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Soon after this interview, when death struck him, he begged most imploringly: "Help me up!  O do help me up!  Set me down on the floor."</P>
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063.sgm:<P>He was helped out of bed by those present, and gasped and died before they could get him back.  What madness and folly to postpone the great business of life, for the accomplishment of which the Lord does not give us too much time nor strength, to such an hour, when time and strength have fled.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Wednesday, April 10, found me on my way a second time to Santa Cruz, to organize a quarterly conference, and hold a meeting.  Before starting that morning I sold a lot of Methodist books to a Brother Walker, to take to New South Wales; also sold my horse to W. O. Johnson for one hundred and fifty-two dollars, reserving two trips on him to Santa Cruz, thereby securing the end without the risk and expense of keeping him.  Bought him to save expense; amount saved, one hundred and sixty dollars; sold him to save expense; cost in the country one hundred and ten dollars; brought in the city one hundred and fifty-two dollars.  Johnson afterward told me he was a "lucky horse" for him; said after making ten thousand dollars in California, his livery stable was burned, and everything in it except "Charley."  He had to begin the world again with nothing but that horse, but started the same business with him, and in two years regained all he had lost.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I did better with that horse than I did with the mule on which I traveled a couple of months in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The following scrap from my journal notes an incident of that trip to Santa Cruz:</P>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"<HI REND="italics">Friday, April</HI>
063.sgm:<P>--On my way to quarterly meeting in Santa Cruz; now seated at one P.M. under the shade of an ancient oak, which stands on the summit of the coast range of mountains between San Jose&acute; Valley and the Pacific Ocean, from which both are in view.  I am in the midst of one of nature's grand pasture fields of wild oats and grass.  While my horse is grazing, having taken my cold lunch alone, I have just had a precious season of prayer `on the mount.'  Jesus often went up into a mountain to pray.  I have prayed on many a mountain on both the Eastern and Western slopes of the continent, and have always found the mount a good place for prayer.  Its pure air, its grand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"Jesus had a reason for going up into a mountain to pray.  I now mount my horse and travel on; very warm; have to walk a great deal, because of the roughness and danger of the way.  Half past four P.M., have just got through the mountain, and seated myself in the midst of one of nature's most beautiful flower-gardens to rest.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"The Lord has lavished more beauty on California than upon any spot I have ever seen.  The perfect transparency of her atmosphere, the salubriousness of her climate, the sublimity of her mountains, the invigorating freshness of her ocean breezes, the beauty of her valleys, and the variety and extent of her native flower-gardens, carpeting hill and dale for miles together with all the colors of light, are quite without a parallel anywhere in `Uncle Sam's' dominions, if not in the world.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"For a couple of miles back, as I came through a dense chaperel thicket, I have been on the track of a grizzly bear.  His track, by measurement, was fourteen inches long and seven wide; he must have been a monster.  I was on the look-out at every turn of the path to see him start up before me, and wondered whether or not he would clear the track.  The path was cut so deeply by the winter torrents, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Organized and held our quarterly conference on Saturday, April 13th, at four o'clock P.M.  Renewed the preaching license of E. Anthony, A.A. Hecox, H.S. Loveland, and Enos Beaumont; and at that meeting licensed Alexander M'Lean to exhort.  He afterward became a very useful young preacher in California, but feeling it his duty to take a course at the Biblical Institute in Concord, we very reluctantly gave him up, hoping that he would afterward go into the work in California.  He took his course; I believe graduated, and is still a preacher, though not in the itinerant work.  I am decidedly in favor of a thorough preparation of mind and heart for the work of the Christian ministry; but when a man is called of God to preach the Gospel, and in the order of Providence is as actively and efficiently committed to the work as was Brother M'Lean, I very much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:question whether it is his duty to leave the <HI REND="italics">regular</HI>
063.sgm:<P>On my way to the meeting above referred to, I put up at a public house, where they made no charge except for my horse, and invited me to stay with them whenever I could; said they were "always glad to see the preachers."  Returning, I spent a night at the same place, and took with me three travelers, who designed going elsewhere.  My host talked very kindly to me, but charged us all alike, five dollars and fifty cents each for our night's  lodging and breakfast.  I could not account for the change of his conduct toward me, unless, 1st, his covetousness got the mastery of his "kind feelings for the preachers;" or, 2d, his wife, who seemed to be the personification of grasping cupidity, charged him to charge me.</P>
063.sgm:<P>He was like a <HI REND="italics">Christian</HI>
063.sgm:<P>On my return to San Francisco, I learned that the first missionaries from the Methodist Episcopal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:Church, South, Dr. Jesse Boring, and Brothers Pollock and Winn had arrived.  Up to that time, Methodism in California had been as true to its native instincts--devotion of heart to God, and the union of a common brotherhood, through that favorite nursery of Christian sympathy, the class-meeting--as the needle to the pole; a unit; no North nor South ever mentioned.  The only question they ever asked me on their arrival, anywhere from Maine to Florida was, "Are you a Methodist preacher?"  "Yes, sir, I pass for one."  "I thought so," was generally the reply, followed by another, "shake hands," and a hearty, mutual congratulation on the enjoyment of the blessings and privileges of our common Methodism on the Pacific coast.  And I really thought by burying all local prejudices, and by uniting the cool, calculating heads of the North, and the warm hearts of the South in one body, and then have that body in vested with the characteristic energy of California life, and then have all sanctified to God, we would raise up on the Pacific coast the greatest people in the world.  I must say, therefore, that I looked with fearful apprehension upon an effort to make " <HI REND="italics">twain</HI>
063.sgm: " of that which, I thought, for the honor and efficiency of our common Methodism in California, should be but ONE.  I immediately went, however, and called on the newly arrived brethren of the Church, South.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"<HI REND="italics">Thursday, April</HI>
063.sgm:<P>--Learned on my return to-day, that the representation of the Southern Church had arrived, and in company with Dr. B. Miller, I called and spent an hour with them.  They avow neutrality on the slavery question; say they do not believe that slavery ever will exist in California, but that the Church, South, as a Christian Church, claim the privilege of sending missionaries to China, California, or wherever they think they can do good.  I take them to be Christian men, and true ministers of the Gospel, and as such I shall treat them till they convince me that I am mistaken.  There is a great work for Christian men and ministers to do in California, and if the Lord has sent these men here to help do it, I pray that he may open their way for harmonious action with other Churches, and give them great success in saving souls; if the Lord has not sent them here, I hope he will send them back where they came from, and the sooner the better.  I shall leave them in his hands, and not attempt to drive them away. I shall give them a welcome to my pulpit and to my heart, as men of God, while they act as such.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Brother Pollock was stationed in Sacramento City, and was cordially received by Brother Owen, who not only invited him to his pulpit, but gave him a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>But I am clearly of the opinion, that however sincere and holy the ministers of both parties, one organization of Methodism in California would accomplish at least twice the amount of good in the salvation of sinners, and the redemption of that fair land, than the <HI REND="italics">two</HI>
063.sgm: are accomplishing, or can accomplish.  True, we have not spent much time and ammunition in fighting each other, and never expect to; but our relative position is such that there are hundreds, and probably thousands, who would have been warm friends of either branch had it been alone, who will commit themselves to neither, situated as we are.  I will illustrate the truth of this view of the subject by a specimen case.  J. D. Hoppe, a merchant in San Jose&acute;, member of the convention that framed the constitution of the state, a friend to Methodism, had been a Church member in Missouri, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The chapel we built in San Jose&acute; during the summer of 1850 is still in use by a flourishing society and Sunday school: a good station, giving support to a preacher and family.</P>
063.sgm:<P>As a bit of personal experience in California, I will insert a birthday notice from my journal:</P>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"<HI REND="italics">Thursday, May</HI>
063.sgm:<P>I am this day twentynine years of age.  How astonishing to me that I am entering my thirtieth year.  I feel like a boy.  I have not at all, as yet, realized my aspirations for literary and spiritual attainment, nor my ideal of manhood.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
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063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P>SOCIAL LIFE IN CALIFORNIA.<LB>SOCIAL life indeed!  Precious little of that article found or even tolerated in California for years.  California was a vast social Sahara.  The element of social life, to be sure, is inherent in our being, and has, perhaps, a more prominent and varied manifestation in human life, than any othe principle essential to humanity.  Its most appropriate sphere of manifestation is in the well orderd family.  It gives vitality and felicity to connubial, paternal, maternal, and filial relationships.  It constitutes the integral bond which unites the family together, the severance of which is as the lightning bolt entering a man's soul.  The man or woman in whom this principle is dead is a misanthrope, and abides in darkness, uncheered by one ray of light or hope; loves neither father, nor mother, nor brother, nor sister, nor son, nor daughter; a miserable being all alone in the world.  The man who has no appropriate object on which to exercise his social affections, is a Selkirk, standing on his lonely island, surrounded by an ocean waste, fit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The tearful adieus of fathers, and sons, and brothers, as they departed for California, told of the deep-gushing fountains of social sympathy and affection which swelled their hearts.  For weeks afterward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:they gazed daily, with tearful interest, at the mementoes from loved ones, already painfully distant; but they had launched out on unexplored seas of wealth-seeking adventure, and must look ahead.  Many were without moral quadrant, compass, or chart, but all had the telescope of manifest destiny, through which they could see in the distance the auriferous mountains.  Dark clouds sometimes intercepted their vision, but their edges were so beautifully fringed by the sunshine of hope, that they only added grandeur to the scene.  Each one felt as certain of getting there, and of "making his pile," as did the prophet Balaam, when trotting over to Mount Peor; but, poor fellows, how many of them, like the prophet, were "driven to the wall."  Having reached the land of gold, and the flurry and surprises of the arrival over, then came the initiation of the "green horns," as they were familiarly called, into the mysteries of California life, which was a very interesting, and in many cases a very serious affair.  Some meeting friends there, had but little difficulty; but many arrived destitute of both friends and funds.  All, however, soon learned that to succeed in California, every man must be selfreliant and independent, a <HI REND="italics">brave</HI>
063.sgm: on his own account.  Home reflections and associations brought painful contrasts to view, and led to gloomy forebodings, and must hence be dismissed from their minds.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>To the foregoing sleeping arrangements, if you add a few coarse gray blankets, you will have an original California lodging-house furnished.  I heard it positively asserted by many, who had been made tremblingly sensible of the fact, that in some houses a few pair of blankets supplied a houseful of lodgers.  As the weary fellows "turned in" one after another, they were comfortably covered till they would fall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<illus entity="a063-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CALIFORNIA LODGING-ROOM.</P>
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063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Others, not willing to pay much for the mere name of "boarding at the hotel," formed mess-companies, pitched their own tent, bought a skillet and coffee-pot, and kept "bachelor's hall."  This mode of life is familiarly known in California as "ranching."  Their tent or cabin is called the "ranch," from "rancho," the Spanish name for a farm.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:large proportion of the miners still live in this way.  "Ranchers" usually cook by turns; sleep in bunks furnished with a pair of blankets, and a few old clothes; a pair of trowsers rolled up with an old coat, make a pretty good pillow.  "Wash-day" among the ranchers comes but seldom, and is never welcome; for there are no wives, nor daughters, nor Bridgets to do the washing.  In San Francisco, in 1849-50, there was but little washing done.  Men had not yet learned how, and to have it done cost from six to nine dollars per dozen; so it was generally found cheaper to give their check-shirts a good wearing, (white was out of the question,) and then shed them off into the streets, and put on new ones.  I have seen dozens of shirts lying around in the streets and vacant lots, which had thus been worn once and never washed.  There were yet other fortune-seekers who, instead of ranching in companies, went alone.  How they lived I know not; but they slept each in a home-made cot, at each end of which was a fork, driven into the ground, in which lay a ridge-pole, with just enough of canvas stretched over it to cover the cot.  The cot, tent, and all were not four feet high.  There was one of this kind during the winter of 1849-50 near where I lived on Jackson-street.  In the morning I could see the fellow crawl out of his cot from under his little tent, sometimes head foremost; at other times his feet would first appear.  While I have seen large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The various classes thus described are not made up of the isolated cases, but represent the great mass of the early denizens of the golden land; men who wore check-shirts, and gray or red flannel, instead of coats; trowsers, fastened up by a leather-girdle, such as was worn by John the Baptist, and they were planted down to their knees into the coarsest boots the market afforded.  These were the men who, but a few months before, were known among their friends at home as doctors, lawyers, judges, and mechanics, clothed in broadcloth and fine linen, each one a center of social light and life, around which daily revolved the beautiful and gay, fair daughters, sisters, and wives.  How did these men so soon become rustics in California?  What has become of their polish and social life?  I'll tell you.  A large class of California adventurers thought about home, and mourned their absence from loved ones, till gloom and despair settled down on their souls.  Hope died, energy and effort were paralyzed, and they became helpless and worthless.  Some of this class moved round like specters a few months, and then managed to beg, or otherwise secure their passage home to their friends.  Whether social life ever had a sound revival in them I know not.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>There was one of this class with whom I was acquainted, who took a shipment of bonnets to California in 1849.  There were very few American ladies in the country; the Spanish ladies wore no bonnets, so my friend P. found no sale for his bonnets.  In vain he peddled them round among the men; no one wanted a bonnet.  He had some money also, but knew not what to do with it.  Once or twice a week he came to consult me as to what he had better do?  Said I: "My dear fellow, you must go to work; you cannot long bear California expenses unless you draw upon California resources.  Moreover, if you continue to mope about the streets you will take the blues so badly that you'll die; you must do something.  If you can't open a large store, open a stand on the sidewalk until you can do better; if you can't do that, go to work on the streets, roll a wheel-barrow at four dollars per day."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I can't work on the streets," said he; "I've always been accustomed to merchandising, and can't do manual labor; but I must go into business."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Very well," said I; "seek an opening to-day, and go at it."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Some time after this, as I passed down Commercial-street, I saw Mr. P. striding diagonally across the street to meet me.  His face seemed much elongated, and I expected to hear a sad tale.  Approaching me he said:</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>"Mr. Taylor, what shall I do?" choking with an agony of emotion.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"What's the matter now, Mr. P.?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"O," said he, "I loaned my money to my mess-mate.  He said he wanted it but a few days, till I got ready to go into business, and now he's got my money and gone.  I shall never see him again!"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Well, Mr. P.," I replied, "I'm very sorry for you; but it's no use to mourn over lost money any more than over spilled milk.  There's Captain Wooley, whom I know well, who made a thousand dollars, and one day last week as he was leaving his ship he put his purse containing his one thousand dollars in gold dust into his pocket; but poor fellow, he has no wife with him to sew up the holes in his pocket, so as he was descending his ship's ladder his purse, gold and all, slipped through a hole in his pocket into the bay.  Well, sir, the captain said he never looked back, nor lost one minute grieving over it.  He knew it was gone, and just went to work with great purpose of heart to make another thousand.  And yesterday as I walked out on Montgomery-street, a man called me by name: `Mr. Taylor, look here; I made five thousand dollars, and had it hid away in my shanty here, and last night some rascal came and stole every dollar of it; so I'm just where I started.  But never mind,' continued he; `I'll go to work and make five thousand more, and will try and put it where the rogues <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<illus entity="a063-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NEW WORLD MARKET, CORNER OF COMMERCIAL AND LEIDSDORFF STREET</P>
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063.sgm:<P>The census returns of 1856 make the following exhibit of live stock in California:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"One hundred and six thousand nine hundred and ninety-one horses; thirty thousand six hundred and forty-one mules and asses; six hundred and eighty-four thousand two hundred and forty-eight cattle; two hundred and fifty-three thousand three hundred and twelve sheep; four thousand five hundred and forty-four goats; one hundred and eighty-six thousand five hundred and eighty-five swine; two hundred and sixty-six thousand three hundred and thirty-six poultry."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Wild game and fowl abound in California; elk, deer, grizzly bears, etc., wild geese, brants, duck, etc., by the hundred million.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Fisheries are becoming a fruitful product of the California coast.  "A company of Portuguese in Monterey have gone into the whale fishery along the coast, and have taken from whales which they have captured since March, 1856, say eight months, sixteen thousand gallons of oil, which were sold for twelve thousand dollars."</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>"Salmon fisheries are carried on upon the Sacramento River for a distance of fifty miles, extending south from a point ten miles north of Sacramento City.  The season embraces five months, from February to April, and from October to November, inclusive, of each year.  There are about four hundred men engaged in this business, employing a capital of seventy-five thousand dollars.  The number of salmon taken during the season of 1856 was estimated at four hundred and fifty thousand, nearly four thousand per day.  The average weight is about fifteen pounds each, amounting in the aggregate to six million seven hundred and fifty thousand pounds, which, at twelve and a half cents per pound, the average price of the sales throughout the year, amounts to eighty-four thousand three hundred and seventy-five dollars.  There are several establishments at Sacramento engaged in the salting, smoking, and packing of these fish for home consumption, and to supply the demand from abroad."</P>
063.sgm:<P>The bays and rivers abound in sturgeon and other fish in almost endless variety.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The lumber business is carried on extensively.  Timber is not well distributed through the agricultural regions of the state; there are millions of acres, not only in the valleys, but on hills and mountains, without a tree or sapling; one vast meadow with a heavy growth of grass and wild oats just ready for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>"The product of lumber in several counties forms an important part of their resources.  In Tuolumne County alone the sales are estimated to exceed eight hundred thousand dollars per annum.  The number of mills in the state is three hundred and seventy-three, of which one hundred and seventy are propelled by steam, and two hundred and two by water.  Cost of erection estimated at two and a half millions of dollars.  Aggregate capacity is about five hundred millions of feet per year."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"In addition to the above, there are several mills in San Francisco and Sacramento employed in the sawing and dressing of lumber.  The exports of lumber for 1854, 1855, 1856, amounted in the aggregate to one hundred and ninety thousand and twenty-six dollars."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"The number of grist-mills in the state is one hundred and thirty-one.  The aggregate run of stone two hundred and seventy.  Sixty-seven mills are propelled by steam, and fifty-four by water.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>The San Francisco Sugar Refinery, employing one hundred and fifty hands.</P>
063.sgm:<P>San Francisco Cordage and Oakum Manufactory, in successful operations.  The buildings connected with the works are of the most extensive and permanent character.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Pioneer Paper-Mill, thirty miles from San Francisco, in Marin County, with a capacity to turn off fourteen and a half tons per week.  The cost of the establishment, complete, is about ninety-two thousand dollars."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"There are fourteen iron founderies at present in operation in the state, several of which are of an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>There are eighteen Tanneries at present in the state, employing capital to the amount of ninety-four thousand dollars.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The amount of capital employed by the different ferries of the state is estimated at three hundred thousand dollars.  This amount does not include the cost of the steamers employed on the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers.  There are one hundred and seventeen bridges constructed, the aggregate cost of which is about five hundred and fifty thousand dollars."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Ship-building is becoming quite an important branch of business in San Francisco.</P>
063.sgm:<P>There are distilleries enough in the state to produce a stream of liquid fire sufficient in volume and venom to kill all the people in it, the producers included.  The limits of this work will not allow me to give a more definite and detailed account of the various manufactories above referred to, nor an enumeration of many others worthy of notice.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The mineral products of California, so far as reported by the state geologist, Dr. Trask, are, in addition to that of gold, of which the world in general has been notified, as follows: Silver, copper, iron, sulphate of iron, magnetic iron, platinum, chromium, (the fine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Bitumen is found in large quantities in the southern part of the state.  "There cannot be less than four thousand tons of asphaltum lying upon the surface of the ground in the Counties of Los Angeles and Santa Barbara alone, within a few miles of the coast.  Its value, delivered in San Francisco, would not be less than sixteen dollars per ton, equal in value to sixty-four thousand dollars."  Nothing has been done in this line of business as yet, for the reason, I suppose, that induced Robert Sears, a friend of mine, to give up the lime-making business.  Robert spent a year in the manufacture of lime in Santa Cruz, and sent a large shipment, the result of his year's toil, of as good lime as ever was produced, to San Francisco.  He came up in company with me, from one of my Santa Cruz trips, to San Francisco, full of hope, to draw his money, but, alas for poor Bob! the lime-market was overstocked, and all the lime he had would pay but about half his freight bill.  He immediately left for the mines, believing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<illus entity="a063-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S MILL.</P>
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063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Coal is found in abundance, and exhaustless stores of marble, granite, and burr-stones.  These are all regarded as sources of mineral wealth to the state, most of which are yet undeveloped, quicksilver and gold being the only two which have attracted much attention.  Gold is the staple of the country.  Its discovery was made by James W. Marshall, in Coloma Valley, about sixty miles east of Sacramento City, in the month of January, 1848.  This gold discovery was not subsequent to the treaty by which California was ceded to the United States, as has been asserted in my hearing, by men in high position, the said treaty not taking effect till the 30th of May, 1848; but the treaty was made before the news of the gold reached the treaty-making parties.  Marshall was employed by Captain Sutter, to build a saw-mill.  In the prosecution of his work he turned a stream of water from the river into the tail-race, for the purpose of widening and deepening it by the strength of the current.  After the water was shut off Marshall saw, at the foot of the race, some shining yellow stuff, which had been washed out and exposed to view by the action of the water, and gathering a handful of it, he ran away and told his employer.  The echoes of his voice shook the world, and all nations responded to his thrilling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"The amount of treasure manifested at the port of San Francisco from 1849 to the close of 1856, is three hundred and twenty-two millions, three hundred and ninety-three thousand, eight hundred and fifty-six dollars;" but besides that amount, millions have been carried away in private hands.  I remember, a few years ago, a party of returning Californians, in being conveyed in a boat from the landing to the steamer in Virgin Bay, were capsized, and many of them sunk like lead, with the wieght of the gold belted about their persons; while their poor brothers, who, perhaps, had no gold to carry, were picked up and saved.  A lucky miner once fell into the San Juan River, and finding that his bag of gold was too heavy for his body, he took it off, and clenched it in his teeth, but it immediately put his head under water, so he let go the hard earnings of years, and by the greatest exertions saved his life; according to the devil's scripture, "Skin for skin, yea, all that a man hath will he give for his life."  Job ii, 4.</P>
063.sgm:<P>From the best available sources of information, it is estimated that the California gold mines have yielded, within the period above specified, "nearly <HI REND="italics">six hundred millions of dollars</HI>
063.sgm:<P>There are various modes of mining, some of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:most prominent of which I will mention.  Early miners in California confined their operations almost exclusively to <HI REND="italics">surface diggings</HI>
063.sgm: along the banks of the water-courses, or sufficiently near to be hauled to the streams for washing.  At present <HI REND="italics">deep diggings</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Dr. Trask, state geologist, gives the following specimens of cost and profits of some successful operations of this kind:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"The cost of opening the Mameluke hill, near Georgetown, by the parties interested, exceeded forty thousand dollars, while the receipts for the same, during the period of little more than one year, has exceeded five hundred thousand.  Another case is that of Jones's Hill, the opening of which has already cost above thirty-four thousand dollars, the receipts being above two hundred and eighty-four thousand dollars; and still another in the County of Nevada, (Laird's Hill,) the expense of opening which was nearly forty thousand dollars, while the receipts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"The above is mentioned only for the purpose of conveying a better idea of the expenses and profits of what is denominated deep mining in this state; and the localities named form but a small proportion of the aggregate of similar workings.  In the counties of Nevada, Sierra, Placer, El Dorado, Amador, and Calaveras, there are scores of adits and other workings of similar dimensions, which have already cost sums varying in amount from ten thousand dollars upward to the figures given above, and from which proportional profits have been derived."</P>
063.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">River diggings</HI>
063.sgm: are carried on but about six months in the year, while the rivers are low.  The mode is to divert the stream from its channel, so as to work the river bed.  This is done by "wing dams," so constructed as to carry the stream all to one side, and open to mining purposes a <HI REND="italics">part</HI>
063.sgm: of the original channel; but more extensively by building a dam across the entire river, and by throwing the whole stream into a large "flume," constructed of timber and plank, in size and strength sufficient to carry the entire volume of the river.  I saw one a little below Downieville, which carried the whole of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>An immense flume, with its wheels, and pumps, and small flumes, together with the hundreds of men engaged in disemboweling the bosom of the ancient river, and dragging to light the hid treasures it had concealed, it may be, ever since the days of Noah, presents a very lively scene.  All these works are generally swept away by the high tides of the "former rains."</P>
063.sgm:<P>The great desire of the miners to work out their claims, generally keeps all hands busy in getting out the gold till the floods come, and then there is but little opportunity left for saving any fluming timber or accompanying appliances.  A member of a fluming company on the north fork of Feather River, told me that in the summer's work they did not make enough to pay expenses till the last fortnight of the season, when, from beneath a single boulder, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>As an illustration of the extent of such operations, we note the following:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"A portion of Feather River, in the vicinity of Oraville, is at the present time under contract for a distance of two hundred thousand feet, at an expense of four hundred and ninety thousand dollars."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Some idea of the extent to which <HI REND="italics">quartz mining</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"The number of quartz mills in operation in the state is one hundred and thirty-eight, of which eighty-six are propelled by water, forty-eight by steam, and four by horse-power.  The aggregate number of stamps connected with these mills is fifteen hundred and twenty-one.  The cost of machinery is estimated at one million seven hundred and sixty-three thousand dollars."</P>
063.sgm:<P>The quartz rock is quarried out, broken up, stamped, and ground to powder, from which, by means of water and quicksilver, the gold dust is extracted.</P>
063.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Hydraulic mining</HI>
063.sgm: is also carried on very extensively.  The mode is to convey through a canvas duck hose, a volume of about twenty inches of water, with a fall of from thirty to three hundred feet, which presses the water through an iron or brass inch and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The sluices, which are from twelve to eighteen inches deep, and as wide as deep, are made of plank, and extend in length from one to three hundred yards; in the bottom of them are cross bars, called "rifle boxes," to catch the gold, while all the gross material is carried away by the stream.  Along these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Gold-mining of every description requires water, and hence the <HI REND="italics">dry diggings</HI>
063.sgm:<P>The extent of this department of business may be illustrated by the following statistical exhibit in regard to canals and ditches: "There are four thousand four hundred and five miles of artificial water courses for mining purposes in California, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>It is proper to add, that "the progress already made in the construction of these works has been, with but few exceptions, accomplished by the miners themselves."  If the limits of this book would admit of it, I would insert a great many more facts and incidents in regard to mining operations.  The information contained in this chapter in regard to the resources of California, is compiled principally from the official reports of Dr. Trask, state geologist, and the returns of the state census for the year 1856.  I have a number of those reports and census returns in my possession, but I am indebted for the compiling of most of the statistics of this chapter, and some remarks in quotation, to "The State Register and Year Book of Facts, for the year 1857," a 12mo volume, published annually by Henry G. Langley and Samuel A. Matthews, of San Francisco, and James Queen, of Sacramento City.  The Register is the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P>LIFE AMONG THE MINERS.<LB>CALIFORNIA miners are a hardy, muscular, powerful class of men, possessing literally an extraordinary development of hope, faith, and patience, and a corresponding power of endurance.  They have in my opinion done more hard work in California, within the last eight years, than has ever been done in any country by the same number of men, in the same length of time, and I think I may safely say double that length of time, since the world was made.</P>
063.sgm:<P>All that is necessary to convince any man of the truth of this position, is for him to travel through the mines and see what has been done, in the leveling of hills and mountains, filling up of valleys, the digging of about five thousand miles of ditches and canals through mountains on mountains piled, the construction of aqueducts across deep canons, or gorges, from mountain to mountain, and the hundreds of acres of "bed-rock" under the mountains they have laid bare, and scraped and swept like a ship's deck.  He will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>There is as much difference between the muscular action of a California miner and that of a man hired by the month to work on a farm, as between the agonizing, aimless movements of the sloth and the pounce of the panther.  As an illustration of miners' hope, faith, patience, and endurance, I will instance the "Live Yankee Company" of Forest City.  I was informed when there that, as an experiment, they commenced a drift into the mountain between that city and Smith's flat.  The mountain was so high that it was impossible to prospect it by sinking a "shaft" to the "bed rock," the nearest way to the heart of the mountain being in a line from the base.</P>
063.sgm:<P>They soon encountered a strata of solid rock, as hard nearly as pig metal.  The company having no capital outside of their muscular power and indomitable energy, had to get their provisions on credit, and worked in that drift, boring, blasting, and digging for three years before they got the "color;" but "struck a lead" at last, and were amply repaid for all their toil.  They took out a single "lump," while I was there, worth seven hundred dollars.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The miners are not all successful, but they nearly all abound in hope and energy.  I seldom ever met with one who had not a "good prospect."  No <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:matter what his past disappointments and losses had been, he was going to do first rate as soon as he could get his claim open, or his "pay dirt washed out."  Even the little boys of the country partake of this spirit.  A "lucky miner," determining to take his family back to the Atlantic side, came on as far as San Francisco, and while stopping at Hillman's Hotel, awaiting the day of embarcation, went out one night and fell among thieves, who robbed and murdered him.  His body, three days afterward, was found in the bay.  His poor widow was almost heart-broken, and her little miner boy, only four years old, when he heard that his pa' was dead, went to her and said, "Ma, don't cry!  <HI REND="italics">don't cry</HI>
063.sgm:<P>That all miners are not alike successful, is a fact growing out of a variety of causes.  Some chance to get richer claims than others.  Some have better health than others.  Working in the rivers is very injurious to health.  Those rivers are fed by the leakage of mountains capped with perpetual snow, and are in midsummer almost as cold as ice-water.  To wade and work in this ice-water from day to-day, under the burning heat of summer sunshine, freezing the lower extremities and scorching the brain, will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>A Baltimorean made five thousand dollars in the mines, and started to go home to his family, but was induced to go into a fluming operation, and spend a summer in the river.  He concluded that it was no use to go home with but five thousand dollars, when by staying a few months longer he could double that amount.  The operation was unsuccessful, and the poor man not only lost every dollar of his money, but by working in the water so much lost his health, and never got further homeward than to San Francisco.  I found him there in the charity hospital just as he was sinking to the grave.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Many injure their health working in drifts, especially when they are working under leaky ground.  I saw a tunnel, near Forest City, from the arch of which water came down continually, like rain torrents, and one of the men engaged in it had been down with inflammatory rheumatism, unable to move a limb for weeks.  A sick man not only loses his time, but his purse, subject to the drainage of California rates of expenditure, very soon discharges all its dust.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Again, in some mining districts the cost of living is enormous.  There are large towns, and thousands of miners, away in isolated regions so completely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Packing has hence become a very extensive and profitable business.  A pack train usually numbers from thirty to one hundred mules, each carrying a burden of about three hundred pounds, of every imaginable shape--bales, barrels, boxes, crates, bags, and everything that the necessities or luxuries of a mining city could demand.  To live in such regions, therefore, costs perhaps fifty per cent. more than in places easy of access.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Again, many miners are very reckless; they sport, and spree, and waste their hard earnings.  Others, again, spend all they make in "prospecting."  The prospectors constitute a very large and useful class of miners.  They are always dreaming of immense treasures of undiscovered wealth.  No matter how well they are doing, when they get a few hundred dollars ahead they must be off, with pick, and pan, and miner's pack, and seldom ever stop till their money is gone, and then they set to work in one place again till they can make "another raise."  They are constantly discovering "new diggings," and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>As a specimen of California prospecting, I will mention the case of my friend C.  He arrived in San Francisco in 1850, and got employment at Mission Dolores in the brick-making business, which was his trade, at seven dollars per day, with the promise of steady work by the year.  After making a few hundred dollars he became dissatisfied.  Said he:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I've not seen my mother for several years, and I can't stay more than a year or two in California; and I see plainly enough that in time seven dollars per day won't make such a pile as I want."</P>
063.sgm:<P>So he gave up his situation and went to the mines, where <HI REND="italics">he knew</HI>
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063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>I met with him a couple of years afterward, and said: "Well, friend C., how do you get along?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"O, pretty well," replied he; "I opened a first-rate claim in Mariposa County last year, but just as I got it in good working condition the water failed, so I had to let it lie over.  When the time came that I could have worked it, I happened to be away up near Downieville, and having a good claim there I didn't go back to Mariposa.  I have taken out a great deal of gold, but in prospecting from place to place I have spent it all; but I have some good claims which will pay big by and by."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Three years after that I met Friend C. in American Valley.  "Halloo, my old friend; how do you get along?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"O, pretty well," replied he; "but I'm not ready to go home yet."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I presume your dear old mother would be glad to see you by this time."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Yes, indeed, and I would be glad to see her; but I can't go home till I make something."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Well, how near are you ready?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I don't know.  I have made money; but in traveling from place to place I have spent it all.  I have been up to Oregon since I saw you, and had a chance to get a first-rate farm there, if I could have stayed; but I had some rich claims in Mariposa, and thought I ought to come down and look after them; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Another, with whom I was acquainted, who had not seen his family for six years, said to me one day: "For five years I have set a time to go home about every six months; but every six months has found me either dead-broke, or doing so very well I could not leave."  But few of this adventurous class, the prospecters, will submit to the mortification of returning to their friends without money, and but few of them are likely ever to have enough at any one time to pay their passage home; while nearly all of them, with their mining skill, might make a fortune if they would remain in one place, and save their earnings.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">social condition</HI>
063.sgm: of a large proportion of the miners of California has been bad, but is now rapidly improving.  Separated as they have been from all socializing home influences, and especially from virtuous female society, reduced to constant toil and the roughest modes of life, they became rustics, and many of them became very vulgar and profane.  Many men of fine mind and good education have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The introduction of virtuous women and good families is working a hopeful social reform throughout the mining regions.  I heard a letter-carrier's salutation to a company of miners, which was vulgar and scandalous in the extreme.  From the miners he came to the house at which I was stopping, and addressed the lady of the house in a most polite, chaste, and gentlemanly manner.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">moral condition</HI>
063.sgm: of the miners is by no means what it ought to be.  But very few of them are particularly anxious to go to heaven.  I preached to a large assembly of miners one Sunday afternoon in the streets of Placerville, a flourishing mining city of six thousand inhabitants.  In front of my goods-box pulpit stood a stage-coach, which was crowded to its utmost capacity with as many of my auditors as were fortunate enough to secure so good a seat.  I endeavored to show the multitude before me their unfitness for heaven in their unregenerated state, their utter want of sympathy with God, or adaptation to the immunities of heaven.  To illustrate the truth of my position, I said: "If God should dispatch a rail-car train to the city of Placerville this afternoon to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Sabbath-breaking and profane swearing are prominent in the catalogue of miners' offenses against the Lord.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Sunday in the mines was remembered only as a day for trading, recreation, spreeing, business meetings, and preparation for the business of the ensuing week.</P>
063.sgm:<P>It was very common to see large cards hung up in boarding-houses and business places, like this: "All bills paid up here on Sunday."  That was the day for miners to get their blacksmith work done, and lay in their supply of provisions for the week; the day for holding public meetings for the enactment of miners' laws, or other municipal business.  Under a general statute, every mining district enacts its own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>In a preaching tour I made through the mines, as late as 1855, I traveled nearly a week without the privilege of any Christian association, and I longed for the opportunity of shaking a Christian's hand, and of feeling the warming sympathy of a heart that loved Jesus.  On entering a mining town I inquired in the hotel at which I put up, whether there were any professors of religion in that town.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Yes," answered the landlord, "there is one.  Mr. T., our blacksmith, is a good Christian man."</P>
063.sgm:<P>And different boarders added: "Yes, Mr. T. is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>So, at my earliest convenience, I hastened to see Brother T.  He received me very cordially, and introduced me to his family, all of whom looked very neat and respectable, and I rejoiced in the privilege of meeting so exemplary a Christian family away in those wild woods.</P>
063.sgm:<P>As soon as I took my seat I inquired of Brother T. how he was prospering in religious life.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Well," replied he, "I think I am getting along pretty well, considering all the circumstances; but not so well as I did in Illinois, where I enjoyed the public means of grace.  My greatest drawbacks here are my having no religious meetings to go to, and my having to work on Sunday.  I support my family by blacksmithing, and the miners must have most of their work done on Sunday; and, to tell you the truth, I have worked in my shop here every Sunday except two for five years.  One Sunday I was sick, and couldn't work; and one Sunday I went to hear the only sermon ever preached on this creek, which was delivered by Brother Merchant."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"O," thought I, "shades of the fathers! if this is the `best man in these mountains,' the Lord pity the worst."</P>
063.sgm:<P>I traveled nearly a week before I found another Christian. He was an old ship-master, a good old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>At the appointed hour, Sunday morning, I had a large audience to preach to under the shade of an ancient pine.  The sound of the Gospel had never echoed through those hills before.  Looking over my audience I discovered my old captain, and felt glad to think that I had at least one praying heart, who could sympathize with my mission and my message of mercy.  After meeting I asked the old captain to take a walk with me "up into the mountain to pray." I felt that I needed the warming influence of a little prayer-meeting, and I supposed he did too.  Finding a suitable place, I sang a few verses and prayed; I then sang again, and thinking I had got the good brother pretty warm, and that he in turn would contribute to the fire of my own heart, I called on him to lead in prayer.  But I couldn't get a grunt out of him.  Thought I, "Poor old captain, he is dried up."</P>
063.sgm:<P>I announced an afternoon appointment for preaching in the same place, and thought from the size of the morning audience, and the apparently good effect of the preaching upon them, that I would have a much larger congregation, and a better time, at the second appointment.  But, to my surprise and mortification, I did not have more than twenty hearers, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:and when I cast about to know the cause, I learned that, according to custom, nearly the whole population of the neighborhood had by that hour of the day become too drunk to attend preaching.  Such a variety of antics as they displayed beat anything I had ever witnessed.  Next morning I found most of them sober, and ready to work; and to show their appreciation of my ministerial services, they gave me a donation for my Bethel cause of nearly one hundred dollars.  The cases here given are to illustrate the general character of the miners in those regions.  I found in nearly every place I visited honorable exceptions--sober, serious men, who deeply deplored the prevailing wickedness of the miners; and everywhere I went there was a general expression of desire for the regular preaching of the Gospel, and the establishment of its institutions among them, and a liberal support for a preacher and his family was pledged.  I found a few merchants, too, who would not sell goods on the Sabbath.  A man of my acquaintance, who passed for a minister of the Gospel before he went to California, opened a provision store in the southern mines.  He commenced business with the determination not to sell liquor, nor to break the Sabbath.  He had a moderate degree of success on that principle, but nothing to compare with the success of his business competitors, who sold liquor and kept open on Sunday.  His <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Finally, there came a night in which he was surprised by the Indians, who stampeded his cattle, burned up his store, goods and all, and the ex-reverend gentleman fled for his life, and begged his way down to Stockton as poor as Lazarus.  He regarded his reverses as a judgment for his apostasy, and repented his fall.  When I made his acquaintance he was in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"Halloo! old man, we've come to buy some provisions from you.  We are very glad you have opened a store in these diggings; it's what we have wanted here for a long time."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Well, boys," Brother H. replied, "I have opened a store here, and intend to keep a good supply of everything you may need; but I want you to understand from the start, that I will never sell you any liquor, and will never sell you goods of any kind on Sunday."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Well, old man, you my just as well pack up your duds and go home, for you can do nothing here on those terms.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"You have a right to your opinion, boys," replied Brother H., "but I intend to do right, whether I make anything or not.  If I can't make a living without poisoning my neighbor by selling rum, and offending God by breaking his holy day, I'll <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"Old man," rejoined the miners, "we are hungry, we ate the last of our provisions yesterday evening, and have come to get something to cook for our breakfast.  Let us have enough to satisfy our hunger to-day, and we will come to-morrow, and lay in a supply for the week."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Boys, you can fast and pray to-day," replied the old man, "and you'll learn, next time, to make timely provision for the wants of the Sabbath."</P>
063.sgm:<P>With that the miners got mad and swore a while at the "old fool," and left; but everywhere they went they told about an "old fogy who had come up into the mountains to teach us all how to keep Sunday."  They thus advertised him all through those mountains, and thinking men at once came to the conclusion that a man maintaining such a position must be an honest man.  "We can depend on the word of such a man as that.  Rely upon it he won't cheat us."  The result was that the better class of miners poured in upon him for supplies at such a rate, that in a few months he "made his pile," and returned East to his family.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Wicked as were the mass of California miners, they have always displayed some good qualities.  They have all encountered hardships and sufferings, and most of them have hearts to sympathize with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>A butcher in the town of Alameda received a similar notice from a similar court, giving him two hours.  About the middle of his last hour I saw him driving away with his effects in a wagon.  Among his movables were several live sheep, one of which got loose in the midst of the town, jumped out, and ran for life.  The butcher and one of his men pursued it a few squares, and finally shot it, threw it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Notorious rogues were often discharged from a town or mining camp in that way, while notorious murderers were hanged by the neck.  Judge Lynch has transacted a great deal of business in California.  I designed inserting a chapter of facts and incidents illustrating the history of Lynch law and Vigilance Committee operations in California, and the natural and Providential laws under which those facts have been manifested, but my space in the present book will not admit of it.  However much may be said in condemnation of Judge Lynch's court and its proceedings, there is this to be said in favor of the denizens of California, that riots, and a promiscuous shooting into the masses, killing the innocent with the guilty, such as have been enacted in Baltimore and other Eastern cities, have never been known in California.  Such, for example, as I saw last May in Washington City, when, to quell an election riot that had occurred and passed over without any mortal effects three hours before, one hundred and ten hired soldiers, with muskets each loaded with ball and three buckshot, fired upon an unsuspecting crowd of citizens, instantly killing eight unoffending men, besides wounding many others.  That I witnessed, if, to be sure, getting up from my dinner-table just across the street and standing behind a brick wall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Such riots, and such promiscuous shooting and killing I have never yet heard of in California.  In the administration of California Lynch law, so far as I have known or heard, the thunderbolt of public fury has always fallen only on the head of the guilty man who by the enormity and palpable character of his crime excited it, and then not until after his guilt was proved to the satisfaction of the masses composing the court.</P>
063.sgm:<P>For example:  A stranger called late one evening at the cabin of a miner who had his wife with him, and begged for lodgings, saying that he was a poor traveler, had been unfortunate in business, etc.  The miner and his good wife pitied the poor stranger, took him in, and treated him to the best they had.  The next morning after breakfast the miner had occasion to go away a few miles, and left the man at his house.  When he got out of sight, the accommodated stranger murdered the woman and proceeded to rob the house.  Before he got quite through, however, with his nefarious work, the miner returned, saw what was done, and raised the alarm.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The murderer was caught and tried.  A meeting of miners was called to order, a judge appointed to try the case; witnesses were examined, and the guilt of the criminal proved, upon which the judge stated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<illus entity="a063-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HANGING OF JENKINS ON THE PLAZA.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>I give this fact without comment, simply to illustrate the character of Judge Lynch's proceedings.  The accompanying cut will illustrate a similar tragedy, and the first of that kind enacted in San Francisco by the Vigilance Committee of 1851.  Jenkins was hung from a cross-beam at the south end of "the Old Adobe on the Plaza," within a few feet of my pulpit.  This is the "Old Adobe" to which frequent allusion is made in my "Seven Years' Street Preaching in San Francisco," from the front veranda of which, as seen in the cut, I for several years preached to the excited varieties of the world.</P>
063.sgm:<P>It is a fact, which I believe is generally admitted, that just in proportion as the LAW acquires power in California for the protection of her citizens, in that proportion Lynch law is dispensed with; and I believe that when the legal authority of the state attains to a degree of honorable dignity and strength sufficient for the accomplishment of its glorious ends throughout that commonwealth, Judge Lynch will resign his office, and forever decline re-election. </P>
063.sgm:<P>I would remark further in regard to the miners, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>For example: I went into the city of Sonora at nine o'clock one Saturday night, not knowing a man in the place; and finding the streets crowded with miners, who had gathered in from all parts of the surrounding mountains, I felt a desire to tell them about Jesus, and preach the Gospel to them; so I got a brother whom I chanced to meet, to roll a goods' box into the street, nearly in front of a large crowded gambling-house, and taking my stand, I threw out on the gentle zephyrs of that mild April night one of Zion's sweetest songs, which echoed among the hills, and settled down on the astonished multitudes like the charm of Orpheus.  My congregation packed the street from side to side.  Good order and profound attention prevailed, while the truth, in the most uncompromising terms, was being proclaimed.  At the close of the exercises many, strangers to me, who had heard me preach in the streets of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>I preached in Jamestown one night under similar circumstances.  I got permission of a butcher to convert his meat-block into a pulpit; I tried to have the butcher himself converted, but did not succeed in that, though he made very humble confessions, and, like Herod under the preaching of John, "did many things."  Selecting the best point for a crowd, I happened again to be in front of a large gambling-house.  Some of the gamblers, thinking that I was putting on too strong an "opposition line," took offense and tried to run me off the track.  They knew the character of the miners too well to attempt to confront the preacher personally; so to try and scatter my audience, they tied some tin pans to a dog's tail, and sent him off with a clatter, they yelling after him.  Stopping short in the midst of my sermon, I said:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"There they go, poor fellows; they want to make their souls happy.  Rather a poor intellectual entertainment, tying tin pans to a dog's tail; but I presume it's the best they can do, so we'll let them go and make the most of it."</P>
063.sgm:<P>By that time they were out of sight, out of hearing, and the attention of my audience stimulated and improved.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The social and moral condition of the California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The deep diggings, hydraulic and quartz mining, are all carried on for years in the same locations; and in many places the miner can calculate in advance the returns of a year's labor, as certainly and definitely as can the mechanic, merchant, or farmer.  The mining towns commenced eight years ago, and which it was believed would be abandoned to the coyotes in two or three years, as the mines in those localities would be worked out, have generally gone on, increasing in size and permanence every year, and bear now as hopeful indications of living to the end of the world, as do the agricultural and commercial towns.  I am not speaking of the paper towns and cities peddled about in numberless scores by speculators, but which never had an existence except on their beautifully colored maps; the mining towns I have in my mind when instituting the above comparison, are such as Nevada, Grass Valley, Columbia, Sonora, each containing an average of five thousand inhabitants; and a hundred others of various sizes, equally prosperous and permanent.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The miners everywhere through the mountains are settling their families; schools and churches are multiplying in every direction.  Besides the ministers of other denominations, who are doing a great work for God, there are upward of ninety itinerant preachers in connection with the California Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church, who are sounding the jubilee trump from Dan to Beersheba, from Yreka to San Diego.  Gambling has gone down, under the pressure of an indignant public sentiment, a thousand per cent.  below par, and all the "hells" in the state were closed three years ago by the hand of the law.  The great Goliah of Gath, the gambling fraternity of California, which defied all Israel for years, has fallen, and his decapitated carcass has been delivered over to the vultures.  The Sabbath is honored much more now than formerly, and though many, very many and great evils remain, yet social and moral progress are now the order of the day in California.</P>
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063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA AS A MISSIONARY FIELD.<LB>GOD, in his word and in his providences, has revealed and established two leading modes of spreading the tidings of salvation to perishing sinners of distant lands.  The first is to send the Gospel to them in heathen lands, by his embassadors; and the second is to send them to the Gospel in Christian lands, by his providences. </P>
063.sgm:<P>The Divine authority of the first mode is found in the great commission: "Go ye into all the world, and preach the Gospel to every creature;" but the apostles receiving it were to tarry at Jerusalem, until endued with power from on high.  By the time the power descended upon them, God, in his providence, developed the second mode.  When the apostles came down from that celebrated upper room, from that extraordinary protracted prayer-meeting, with hearts of love and tongues of fire, lo! right at their doors were assembled representative dwellers of at least fifteen different nations.  These all listened to Peter's great pentecostal sermon, and not only heard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The fact is, their views in regard to foreign missionary work and the redemption of the race were, as yet, so contracted, that they would not preach the Gospel to any but Jews, even at home, until by the exhibition of the "great sheet," with its animals of every kind, St. Peter's sectarian shackles were unloosed, and he was compelled, by the direct command of God, to go and preach to the house of Cornelius.  St. Paul was the first foreign missionary to go abroad and establish missions among the heathen, and make a practical demonstration of the first mode referred to; but in nearly every place he visited, he found scattered abroad the pentecostal seeds of truth, which had been borne, as it were, on the wings of the wind by the efficient workings of the second mode.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Without stopping to show that those two modes of missionary enterprise bear respectively the sanctions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:of Divine providence in every age of the Church's history, I would simply say, that never, perhaps, since the days of St. Paul, have they been more clearly exhibited than at the present hour.  The planting and sustaining of Christian missions among the heathen and semi-heathen nations of Europe, Asia, Africa, and Oceanica, are in strict accordance with the first mode.  Foreign missionary work, therefore, is Scriptural in its authority, and therefore necessary, and must be sustained at whatever cost, however long we may have to wait to see the fruits of an abundant harvest.  The practical results, however, arising from the labors of foreign missionaries, of all Christian denominations, are, upon the whole, hopeful and cheering.  They survey and plot the unoccupied territories of Immanuel's lands, establish militant posts, and garrisons for soldiers of the cross, and bear the truce-flag of redemption to the uttermost parts of the earth.  Foreign missions are worth more than the cost of sustaining them, for the influence they exert on the commercial adventurers and seamen of Christian nations.  Many a prodigal son has been arrested and brought to Christ in foreign lands by Christian missionaries, who could not, perhaps, have been reached anywhere else.  I will give one single case to illustrate this position.  A. M. Brown, a sailor of my acquaintance, was extremely wicked and profane, an avowed enemy of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:Christ and his Church, and especially of missionaries in foreign fields.  He openly opposed the missionaries at the Sandwich Islands, Navigator's Islands, and other islands of the Pacific, and did everything in his power to throw obstructions in their way.  From the Pacific he shipped to Constantinople, and was there, a few days after leaving the vessel, seized with the cholera, and under the dreadful shock fell helpless and alone in the streets.  I have heard him say: "While I lay there in the streets of Constantinople, dying, as I believed, I thought on my past life, and awoke to a sense of my dreadful condition as a sinner; I felt that I should soon be in hell; despair, with all its horrors, seized my soul; and thinking that it was then too late to pray, I said to myself, Why didn't I attend to that before?  Why didn't some one kindly warn me of my danger?  I had a father, who once made a profession of religion, but he never told me what a dreadful thing it is to die in sin, and go to hell.  Why didn't some preacher, or some Christian friend tell me of all this?  No man hath cared for my soul, and now I'm dying in the streets of a foreign city, and going to hell.  And," said he, "in an agony of despair, I cursed the day of my birth, and cursed my father for his neglect, and cursed the preachers, and cursed the Church; and then my paroxysms of pain would come on, and I writhed under the scorching rays of the sun till life was almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"When all hope had gone from me, a man, whom I supposed to be an Englishman or an American, came and looked at me, and I thought, O that he would speak to me in a language I can understand!  He spoke to me; but, alas!  it was in the Turkish language.  Seeing that I could not understand him, he addressed me in my own mother tongue; such music never thrilled my soul before.  He spoke, too, such words of kindness and sympathy as never before fell on my guilty ears.  He had me taken up and conveyed to his house, and under his skillful treatment and care I was relieved in a few hours.  That good Samaritan was an American missionary.  He saved my life; and, more than that, he led me to Christ.  Three days after my recovery, while still at his house under his instruction, God, for Christ's sake, spoke my sins forgiven, and healed my soul."</P>
063.sgm:<P>From that day Brown became a steadfast, zealous Christian. He was for several years a local preacher in my charge in San Francisco, and one of the most efficient workmen I had.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I received a request from the "Hawaiian Tract <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>But however important and glorious the foreign missionary work, I believe that the greatest achievements of American missionary enterprise are now in progress, and will ere long be accomplised, through the second mode, above indicated.  "The abundance of the sea" is now being "converted," and used, more effectively than ever, for the great purposes of the Gospel.  The nations are flowing together as they never did before, and flowing especially in all their variety to Protestant America.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The tide of emigration from European nations has been rolling in for more than a century, and now the tide from Eastern heathen nations is bearing its tens of thousands to our Pacific shores.  What glorious Gospel achievements have already been gained among those resident on our shores, and how wonderful the reflex power of them on kindred and friends in the various lands whence they came, and how many, like the "Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites, and dwellers in Mesopotamia," etc., have gone back to tell of the "wonderful works of God," through all the countries whence they came.  Mark the success <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The Methodist mission in China was commenced about the same time that Brother Jacoby was sent back to Germany, and after all the toil, and expense, and sacrifice of life which have been given to the Chinese mission, those zealous missionaries have never yet been able to report the conversion of more than six Chinamen.  I do not mean to institute any invidious comparisons, or to say one word against the Chinese mission.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The mission is necessary and must be sustained, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<illus entity="a063-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHINESE FEMALES.</P>
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063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>But let the wisdom and mercy of God be adored, he has another mode which is already beginning to shed the light of hope on the future of China.  The Missionary Society is supporting a few men in China, who have to devote half a dozen years in acquiring the language so as to gain access to the Chinese mind, and then a dozen years more will be necessary to wear off their prejudices against foreigners, so as to give them access to the Chinese heart.</P>
063.sgm:<P>But, in the mean time, God in his providence has forty thousand long-cued fellows in California, at no expense to anybody, studying the English language, through which the Gospel message will reach their hearts, and then, they, by the thousand, it may be, can return on the principle we have illustrated, and carry the tidings of salvation to the perishing millions of their own land.  True, but little has been done as yet, in the way of direct Christian effort, for the conversion of the Chinese in California.  Rev. William <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>But though so little direct effort has been put forth by the Church in this direction, still, much has been done, and the way is being prepared, in the order of Providence, for their conversion by and by.  They acquire our language with considerable facility.  They soon become impressed with our superiority over them, and so soon begin to give up their national prejudices and exclusiveness.  When a Chinaman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<illus entity="a063-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHINESE MERCHANTS.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>From that time he begins to learn the English language and pry into everything.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I preached one night in the summer of 1855 in M'Ginnis's provision store-room, at Twelve Mile Bar, on the east branch of the North fork of Feather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Then said Chippee: "What you call him talk las night?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"That was Mr. Taylor, from San Francisco," replied the clerk.</P>
063.sgm:<P>He noted the name in his book, and then said, looking and pointing upward: "What you call him, <HI REND="italics">Him</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"We call him God," answered the clerk.</P>
063.sgm:<P>So he noted that in his journal also.</P>
063.sgm:<P>He then gave the following brief translation of his notes from the wrapping-paper, which I now have in my possession:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Tell all men, no gamble; tell all men, no steal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>That was the first sermon Chippee ever heard, and those were the ideas he gathered from it.  What the spirit of inquiry thus awakened in his mind may lead to, who can tell?  But besides the forty thousand Chinamen referred to, whose numbers are every year increasing, we have in California the representatives of all other nations.  What St. Peter saw in <HI REND="italics">vision</HI>
063.sgm:, on the house-top of Simon the tanner, is exhibited in <HI REND="italics">fact</HI>
063.sgm:<P>What I said of the Chinese is true of the rest; they are learning our language and our civilization, and the way is opening for their reception of the Gospel, and thence they may bear the news to the ends of the earth.  It has been my lot to preach the Gospel hundreds of times, if not to every creature, at least to specimen representatives of all the creatures, I suppose, of human kind in this lower world.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The following account of preaching the Gospel to all the world in San Francisco is given in the "Annals;" due allowance must be made for the writer's poetical allusion to the singing on the occasion:</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>"Suddenly from the piazza of an old adobe on the Plaza arises the voice of one crying in the wilderness.  He `raises' a hymn in a voice which would be dreadful in its power were it not melodious.  Hark!  you may hear the words half a mile off.  The City Hall sends back the echo like a soundingboard.  You may stand at the foot of Merchantstreet and distinguish every sentence: `The chariot!  the chariot! its wheels roll in fire!'  Had the vehicle spoken of really rolled over the planked streets of the city, it is doubtful if the tumult of its lumbering wheels could have drowned the voice of him who was thus describing, in thunder-like music, its advent.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"That voice at once arrests attention.  The loiterer turns aside from his careless walk, stops, and listens.  The miner, in his slouched hat and high boots, hears the sounds of worship, recollects the day, thinks of the home and the dear ones far away, and of the hours when he, too, worshiped with them in the old church pew, in the country town, with the graves of the rude forefathers of the village visible from the spot where he sat; the old elm-trees bending gracefully beneath the weight of years and foliage, over the dust of those who planted them; and where he listened to the trembling words of the gray-haired old clergyman as he read, or spoke from that oldfashioned pulpit, and he joins the motley crowd. </P>
063.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The loafing Mexican arouses from his reverie, and from the smoke of his cigarette, gives an extra puff from his nostrils, throws his variegated <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"John Chinaman passes along, and, seeing books, and being of a literary turn, ceases to jabber in the language of Confucius, joins the outskirts of the company, and risks the integrity of his yard-long <HI REND="italics">queue</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"The Malay, with his red-pointed cap, stops a moment to wonder, and, perhaps, forgets a while the well-known trade of piracy when listening to a Gospel which he cannot comprehend.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"It is not long ere there is a sufficient audience.  The singing has brought together the congregation.  There is room enough for all.  The worship progresses.  Prayer, singing, reading of the Scriptures, text and sermon follow.  All can hear, all can see; there is no sexton nor usher, nor is one needed.  It is a primitive service, very earnest, and by no means ridiculous."--P. 671.</P>
063.sgm:<P>I think I never felt a greater thrill of pleasure in proclaiming a free Gospel to the human varieties of California, than I did one Sunday morning a few years ago on Long Wharf in San Francisco.  It happened that morning, when the time came for my wharf appointment, that I was minus a text.  I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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063.sgm:<P>Then said I, "It is usual in sermonizing to institute inquiries something like these:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I.  What are the facts in this case?</P>
063.sgm:<P>"II.  What are the causes or occasions of those facts?</P>
063.sgm:<P>"III.  What are the consequences?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>With that arrangement I proceeded and had a good time, but waked up a great excitement among the rum-sellers.  Opening our fires right at the mouth of their dens, there was no popping at a man of straw, or sham-fighting.  When I succeeded in making out a case, I pointed out my man, and the home-thrust of the prophet Nathan to the guilty king of Israel, "Thou art the man," was backed by the concentrated gaze of a thousand listeners.  Such thrusts were hard to bear, but harder to resist, and the guilty, after one cry of complaint, usually got out of sight.</P>
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063.sgm:<P>On the Sunday morning above referred to, I found no drunken man to suggest a theme, but I met a brother who said, "Good morning, Brother Taylor; what's the news this morning?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Good news, my brother, good news!  Jesus Christ died for sinners."  Said I to myself, "I've got it."</P>
063.sgm:<P>So on I went, and took my stand on the head of a whisky barrel in front of the worst rum hole in the city; if there could be a worse one it was at the opposite corner, just across the street.  I guess the latter was the worst, for they would not let me preach in front of it.  I preached there a few times, and the proprietor sent me word that I blocked up the street, and cut off access to his house, and he didn't want me to preach there any more.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The next Sunday after I received his message, I stood on a pile of wood about thirty feet from his door, and by way of apology for changing my pulpit, said to the people: "That man there complains that I block up the entrance to his house, and forbids my preaching there any more.  He is a gate-keeper of the way to hell, and is bound to keep the passage clear, so that all who are silly enough to go to hell may walk in without hinderance.  He's a generous soul, is he not?  Moreover, a man who steals God's holy day, and spends it in the work of human destruction, can't afford to lose an hour of it."</P>
063.sgm:<P>Then the proprietor of the opposition death line on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>On the occasion I was going to describe, I sung together a vast crowd, of such a variety of human kind as never was seen except in California.  Peter's congregation on the day of Pentecost, for <HI REND="italics">variety</HI>
063.sgm:, was but a small affair compared with it.  When the songs ended, I said: "Good morning, gentlemen; I am glad to see you this bright Sabbath of the Lord.  What's the news?  Thank the Lord, I have good news for you this morning: `Behold, I bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all people.'"  I then addressed them as individual representatives of the different nations thus: "My French brother, look here!"  He looked, with earnest eye and ear, while I told him what Jesus had done for him and his people.  "Brother Spaniard, I have tidings for you, sen&tilde;or," and told him the news, and requested him to tell his people.  "My Hawaiian brother, don't you want to hear the news this morning?  I have glad tidings of great joy for you, sir."  I then told him the news, and that his island should "wait for the law" of Jesus, together with other "isles."  "John Chinaman, you, John, there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"And may it plase your riverence, and have ye nothing good for a poor Irishman?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Why," my dear Irish brother, "I ask your pardon, sir," I replied, "I did not mean to pass you by.  Thank the Lord, I have good news for you, my brother.  Jesus Christ, by the grace of God, tasted death for every Irishman on the Emerald Isle; and let me tell you, my brother, that if you will this morning renounce all your sins, and submit to the will of God, Jesus, your Saviour, will grant you a free pardon, and clean all the sins and all the devils out of your heart as effectually as your people say St. Patrick cleared the snakes and toads out of Ireland."</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Thank you, sir," said he, "I raly belave ivery word you say, and I'll try and be a betther man."</P>
063.sgm:<P>There is, beyond a doubt, a spirit of inquiry at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>An intelligent-looking Italian came to me to know where he could get an Italian Bible.  "A Spanish Bible will do," said he; "I can read Spanish pretty well, but I prefer an Italian Bible, as I want to read to my companions."  He informed me that he was one of a party of twelve Italian refugees, who took part in the revolution of 1848, and had to flee for their lives; said that he and his party had been in California eighteen months, and had often heard me preach in the streets, and were anxious to become acquainted with our Bible and the Protestant religion.  They liked the preaching so far as they could understand it, and thought that was just the religion the Italians needed.  I went with him, and he got a Bible from a branch depository of that glorious institution, the American Bible Society.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The Italian afterward told me that he and his companions were delighted with the great things they found in the Bible.  He said they spent their evenings in reading and talking about it.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Those fellows despised oppression.  I saw a Spaniard in Clay-street one day beating his little boy.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The next time I saw the Italians, they ran across the street to meet me, and inquired very particularly about the welfare of the little boy for whom they had fought.</P>
063.sgm:<P>A company of Maltese lived near me for several years.  I gave them a Testament, and told them about St. Paul's shipwreck and sojourn on their native island, and how well their ancient ancestors treated the servant of God.  They seemed as much delighted with the book as if I had given them the family records of their fathers.</P>
063.sgm:<P>A company of Manilla men wintered near me during the winter of 1849-50.  I used to tell them about Jesus, and they attended my preaching in "the highways."  They could not, at that early day, understand much English, but to show their appreciation of their preacher, when in the spring they were about leaving for the mountains, they brought me a present, consisting of a variety of their native tools, etc.</P>
063.sgm:<P>One Sunday, as I was preaching in Washington <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"O, dat what I like; tell everybody 'bout Jesus; I never saw such free preaching and free Jesus before.  O, I likes it!  When you preach again?"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"This afternoon, on the Plaza, at four o'clock," said I.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"O, I'll be there!  I likes it!"</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Are you acquainted with Jesus?" said I.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"O yes, bless de Lord, I'se got him right in here," replied he, putting his hand on his breast; "I loves him wid all my heart."</P>
063.sgm:<P>I saw him at preaching several times afterward.  He always took his stand close in front of me, and gazed, and listened, and wept, and seemed to enter almost into the spirit of good old Simeon.  I have no doubt that he enjoyed the pardoning mercy of God, and was ready, like Simeon, at the call of his Master to say: "Lord, now lettest thou thy servant depart in peace, according to thy word: for mine eyes have seen thy salvation, which thou hast prepared before the face of all people; a light to lighten the Gentiles, and the glory of thy people Israel."</P>
063.sgm:<P>At an experience meeting in our Seamen's Bethel in San Francisco, a Prussian arose, and said:</P>
063.sgm:<P>"I come to California to git golt; now I don't care about de golt; I want to find dat Yaesus you all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>We all prayed earnestly for him, and he was clearly converted to God.  As soon as he found Jesus, he said he wanted to go back to his own country to tell his mother about Jesus; and about a year afterward he took passage, saying he was going home to tell his mother about Jesus.  I have seen a number of Scandinavians converted in San Francisco; and the first thing a converted young Dane, or Swede, or Norwegian talks about when he finds Jesus, is his "dear mudder."  They want to go straightway and tell "mudder" all about it.</P>
063.sgm:<P>We have, in connection with Yreka station in Siskiyou County, about four hundred miles north of San Francisco, a class of, I believe, eighteen Methodist Kanakas, Sandwich Islanders.  They have one of their own men for leader; and Brother Stratton, who was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>But now, thank the Lord! the spring-time of religious life has come, much that seemed to be dead has revived, and all over the country are seen buds and blossoms, and "fruit unto holiness;" and songs in the vales are heard, like the songs of the ancient captive people of God when returning and coming to Zion.  Notwithstanding all past and present obstructions, the Church may command greater facilities for the conversion of the heathen in California than she can have in a foreign field.  In the first place, as we have shown, their contact with American ingenuity and energy knocks their national <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>In California the heathen are learning, and will yet learn more perfectly to discriminate between the mere subjects of Christian nations, and the Christians in fact; and there the missionary has at once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Let any man weigh the facts we have in part indicated, and he will see that the gold magnet of California was pointed by an all-wise and merciful Providence, for the purpose of attracting and enriching the nations, not in gold, but godliness; and that when these "strangers and foreigners" shall have acquired our language, and some knowledge of the institutions of Christianity, a Pentecostal gust of glory may burst upon them, and they by thousands see and experience "the wonderful works of God," and return to their homes God's own embassadors, to carry the truce flag of redeeming mercy to their perishing brethren, and declare to them in their own vernacular tongue, the royal proclamation of peace and pardon through the blood of Jesus.  Upon a careful review of the foregoing facts taken together with the proximity of California to the heathen millions of Asia, and Japan, and Oceanica, etc., and her constant inter-communication with them, I come to the deliberate conclusion that California is to-day, in the openings of Providence, the most important missionary field under the sun.  "The harvest truly is plenteous, but the laborers are few: pray ye therefore the Lord of the harvest, that he will send forth laborers into his harvest."</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
063.sgm:<P>BIT OF EXPERIENCE--CONCLUSION.<LB>For the information of my friends who inquire why I am here, five thousand miles from my conference, and my California field of labor, and when I expect to return, I will very briefly insert a bit of my experience.</P>
063.sgm:<P>After organizing the Powell-street Church in San Francisco--the first Methodist Episcopal society in California--which I served two years, I was appointed to establish in that port a seamen's Bethel enterprise, which was to comprise the erection of a large <HI REND="italics">church</HI>
063.sgm: for the seamen and sojourners of the nations who were constantly thronging our streets, and the establishment of a <HI REND="italics">home</HI>
063.sgm: for the shipwrecked and destitute mariners of all seas as they were crowded upon us.  I commenced without a dollar's worth of patronage from any source, except what spontaneously sprang up in the streets of that city in connection with out-door preaching; but we proceeded in the name of the Lord and the people, and within a period of two years we completed a church forty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>Up to this time the Home department of the enterprise had not been commenced, while the necessity demanding such an institution in that port was keenly felt from the beginning.  Finally, in the progress of improvements in that part of the city, an opportunity presented itself by which the trustees of our enterprise saw clearly, as they believed, that if they could obtain a loan of the funds necessary to put up the Home building, that certain available resources in hand (the nature of which we have not room here to explain, nor is it necessary) would in due time refund the money, and we would then have our enterprise completed and out of debt, without having to make any further demands on public benevolence; a most desirable consummation.</P>
063.sgm:<P>The trustees found, however, that while moneyed men were satisfied with their securities--the lot on which the Bethel stood, and the one on which they contemplated the erection of the Home--they were not willing to take the names of a Church <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>For a season everything went on prosperously, but a tide of reverses soon set in, affecting the business of the entire state, depreciating everything, and especially San Francisco real estate.  In the midst of the pressure along came a devouring fire, which swallowed up our late improvements in an hour, and our "broad and reliable basis" had by this time narrowed down by the general depreciation until, like the prophet's bedstead, it was quite too short to allow a long man, straitened out with such responsibilities as I had to bear, "to stretch himself on it, and the covering narrower than that he could wrap himself in it;" and now an unthought of alternative began to stare me in the face, more dreadful to my feelings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:than a dozen of deaths.  Two days after the fire a noble band of San Francisco merchants met together "on 'Change," and having looked over the facts and figures of our sinking enterprise, came up to the question of relief with an enthusiasm and generosity which were characteristic of merchant princes.  Said they: "This man must not be allowed to suffer.  We know how he has preached here five times a Sabbath, and labored day and night for the improvement of society in this city for half a dozen years, and here are the official documents to show that he never could have been benefited one cent by this enterprise, had it been as successful as was contemplated; and now to allow him to sink under its unforeseen and uncontrollable reverses, is a thing to which we will never consent."  That was the talk, I assure you.  It came like the voice of hope to a drowning man.  They accordingly appointed a committee of four of the best men in the city, in my opinion, to raise by subscription the funds necessary to rebuild and carry our enterprise through.  That committe, after meeting together, and looking over the ground, reported to me that they would forthwith raise ten thousand dollars, and then stand by and see that I should not suffer.  A mountain was rolled off my heart, and I returned home that day, feeling like a man just converted and saved from impending perdition.  But my rejoicing was of short continuance; for only two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>My friends, by the hundred, and most of my trustees, were thrown into tangled prostration, and buried in the common ruin.  The few friends who were left were like the standing oaks in the forest after the fury of the tornado has passed, scathed, peeled, and slivered, holding their position firmly, but having no sap to spare for their dying neighbors.  So I was now caught in what a Californian would call "a very bad snap," and how to get out was the question.  My committee and a few others did nobly; but after a few desperate struggles we had to succumb.  Everything was surrendered but the church, without a lot to stand on; and I went up to conference with a full exhibit of the facts and figures from the commencement, which were examined by that body of ministers and pronounced correct; but the unanticipated extraordinary reverses had swept the board, pay day had come, and there was nothing in the "locker."  Those California preachers are, upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Whereas</HI>
063.sgm: the Rev. William Taylor, at the request of the trustees of the Seamen's Bethel, assumed heavy personal liabilities for the Bethel enterprise; and <HI REND="italics">Whereas</HI>
063.sgm: this conference, at its session in Sacramento City, 1854, did give their sanction to the Bethel enterprise and said arrangement; and <HI REND="italics">Whereas</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
063.sgm:<P>(Signed), "ISAAC OWEN,<LB>"JOHN DANIEL,<LB>"M. C. BRIGGS,<LB>"G. S. PHILLIPS, <HI REND="italics">Committee</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Now, what was a poor Methodist preacher to do in such a case as that?  Must I be sacrificed on the altar of my devotion to the cause of God and humanity, and go down into the dark sea of bankruptcy without hope, or fall back on my own resources, and say, It shall be settled?  I chose the latter alternative.  And my resources, what were they?  What little property I had was dried up in the general depreciation, so as not to avail one copper.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>My resources consisted of a well-developed physical constitution, six feet high, and a heart full of the love of Jesus, and Gospel hope and faith.  With these I said to the Conference: "Brethren, I am fully persuaded that God, in permitting this train of reverses to befall our Bethel enterprise, has higher and better ends in view than our pecuniary success, which he will bring to light in due time; but the honor of the cause demands that at some time this whole business be satisfactorily settled.  However great the mistake in running any risk in the premises, the Lord knows the purity of the motives underlying the whole matter, and I believe he will in mercy permit such a settlement; and in view of all the facts, I have made up my mind to "face the music," trust in God, and settle it.  How or when the Lord only knows, or how much he will enable me to pay, I cannot tell; but enough to satisfy all parties concerned under the circumstances, and vindicate the honor of his cause."</P>
063.sgm:<P>In the midst of those reverses I had, for the first time in my life, an attack of rheumatism, which kept me in doors a few days; and being unable to do anything else, I tried my hand in writing out a few death scenes; and finding that my pen went much easier than I expectcd, I became interested and encouraged, and in connection with my regular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>On the eve of the session of conference to which I have referred, it struck me one morning that I ought to go to New-York and publish my book, and it might become the entering wedge toward relieving my embarrassments; and moreover, that, with twelve years' experience in street-preaching, I might by my example, in connection with my book on that subject, enlist the sympathies of the Church more fully on behalf of the ten millions of outsiders in the United States, for whom there are no church accommodations.  The more I thought of it, the more plausible it seemed; but there were two apparently insurmountable difficulties in my way.  First, I could not leave without the consent of my conference, and I knew they had no men to spare; and second, I could not go without money to pay my passage.  To leave my family would cost more than to take them with me, and that would cost, with myself, about seven hundred dollars; quite an item for a man who had not money enough to take him fifty miles to conference and back.  But when I started to conference I submitted the matter to the Lord in this way: I said to the Lord, that if it were his will and my duty to go East, I would take two facts as an expression of his will, and never doubt.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>I was not presumptuous nor enthusiastic; I did not expect the Lord to work a miracle, or anything of that sort, for my accommodation; but I did not know of a friend I had "unbroke," to whom I could go for the money; and I knew that it was a law in the spiritual kingdom, not to send a man to wage "a warfare at his own charges."  At any rate I was willing to leave the case in the hands of the Lord, and let the decision of the question, to go or not, turn on those two conditions.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Strange as it may appear, without solicitation, and most unexpectedly, I received on the second day of the session of conference, the following note from Judge Haven, a noble, high-minded outsider, who had known me and my labors from the commencement:</P>
063.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">Aug</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"MY DEAR BROTHER TAYLOR,--The Mail Company will take you and family, for $675, and knock off $375, leaving $300, which I have to-day collected for you, so that it will cost you nothing to get home.</P>
063.sgm:<P>"Yours truly,<HSEP>J. P. HAVEN."</P>
063.sgm:<P>I read it and said, "Thank the Lord for that; I think I see in that an important link in the chain of Providence."  On the last day of the session <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Whereas</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Signed,<LB>"M. C. BRIGGS,<LB>"E. THOMAS,<LB>"J. D. BLAIN."<LB>We came to New-York as strangers in a strange city, in which the high rates of boarding very soon exhausted our little stock of funds; and when our little California boy died we had not money enough to bury him.  It was Christmas day, and while the multitudes were rejoicing without, I sat with the partner of my missionary trials, triumphs, and reverses, in the house of mourning; and as we wept <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:over our dead, she inquired, "William, how much money have you left?"  "Two dollars and seventy-five cents; not enough to buy a coffin for our dear Willie."  But we knew in whom we had believed, by whom we had never been forsaken in the darkest storms we had ever seen.  We looked to our Father in heaven, and he sent us sympathizing friends in our need.  A good brother bought us a coffin, and hired a hack, in which we conveyed our boy to the house of the dead, and thanked God for comfort in the dark days.  Then, again, when I tried to get my book through the press, I could not find a publishing house that would touch it without the cash; a thousand dollars must be paid as soon as the work was done, and I had not a dollar in the world; but I made a contract on the faith that the Lord would help me some way; so the night before it was necessary to close the contract, up turned a live Californian, a merchant prince, who knew me and my cause, and said he, "Go ahead, Taylor; I'll back you;" so out came the book.  While getting that book through the press it struck me that I could write a better one, but I was so occupied for a year after, that I could get no time for writing, except one week in Philadelphia, last summer, having but six sermons to preach, I sat down and wrote, "ADDRESS TO YOUNG AMERICA, AND A WORD TO THE OLD FOLKS," a little book which is selling well, and, I believe, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>In regard to my return to California, I have only to say, that I expect to return from choice.  I labor for the salvation of sinners as cheerfully and earnestly in one place as another, but my family are homesick to get back to California, and I prefer it to any other country, both for myself and for my boys, and I am held here only by the pressure of the mission for which I came.  I travel from city to city, and have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>First, The Lord is with us in great mercy, and has cheered us with his comforting presence during every hour of our reverses and afflictions, and has graciously sanctified them all to our spiritual advancement.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Secondly, Though absent from my conference and my adopted field of labor, I am, nevertheless, at work in the vineyard of God, preaching regularly, in doors and out, except during the periods of confinement referred to, from eight to twelve sermons a week, and have had the happiness of seeing many hundreds of souls converted.</P>
063.sgm:<P>In the third place, I am doing more for the relief of my needy cause than I can hope to do in any circuit or station, and hence feel it my duty to work on in this way till my cause is relieved, or till my duty in some other direction is clearly indicated in the order of Providence.  If I had a few "kinsmen" here, or in California, who could redeem their brother, and let me up from this crushing responsibility, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:would be free at once to go into the <HI REND="italics">regular</HI>
063.sgm:<P>It was my design in this book to finish my story in regard to the "Book Concern of the Pacific;" to tell of the California Christian Advocate, its life, death, funeral expenses of nine thousand dollars, and its resurrection in time to publish to the world the first notice of its own death; in short, I designed giving specimen exhibitions of missionary life in California, from the commencement down to the present period.  I also designed giving life-takings of individual men and women, personal adventures, perils by sea and land; well-authenticated thrilling facts and real scenes, illustrating California life in all its departments.  Also some account of ancient relics of history, government works, charitable institutions, and to tell of the natural wonders of the land --its sublime mountains, crowned with crystal and eternal snow, whose tears water the vales in summer heat; its mineral springs; its streams and waterfalls; Yohamite Falls, the greatest wonder of the kind in the world, leaping from mountain heights <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>But my book is full.  In missionary life I have but briefly illustrated the first seven months coming under my own observation.  I have only "prospected" and "opened" a rich historic mine, running through a period of more than seven years, which yet remains to be "worked out," besides the lateral "drifts" to which I have just referred.</P>
063.sgm:<P>Now, in view of these facts, I feel inclined to add another volume.  If I can command the time, and the public demand will justify the expense, a second volume of "CALIFORNIA LIFE ILLUSTRATED" shall be forthcoming.</P>
063.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
063.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>SEVEN YEARS'<LB>Street Preaching in San Francisco,<LB>EMBRACING<LB>INCIDENTS AND TRIUMPHANT DEATH SCENES.</P>
063.sgm:<P>TESTIMONY OF THE PRESS.<LB>"AMONG the first of our noble army of occupation in California was the Rev. William Taylor.  In labors he has been more abundant, and as fearless as laborious.  His book, as a book of mere incident and adventure, possesses uncommon interest; but as a record of missionary toil and success its interest is immensely increased.  The sketches of personal character and death-bed scenes are thrilling."-- <HI REND="italics">Ladies' Repository</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"The observation and experience recorded abounds with the most pleasing interest, and the scenes are described with much graphic power and felicity."-- <HI REND="italics">Baltimore Sun</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"This is a graphic description of the labors of a missionary among the most complex, and perhaps most wicked, and at the same time excited and active population in the world.  It is a very rich book, and deserves a large sale."-- <HI REND="italics">Zion's Herald</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"As a religious history, it occupies a new department in Californian literature; and its incidents and triumphant death scenes are of the most interesting character."-- <HI REND="italics">The American Spectator</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"It is a very entertaining volume, full of adventure, grave and gay, in the streets of a new city, and among a peculiar people."-- <HI REND="italics">New-York Observer</HI>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"This work is valuable, not merely from its very sincere and sound religious spirit, but from the curious popular traits which it imbodies, and the remarkable insight it affords into the striking and highly attractive peculiarities of the Methodist denomination.  We defy any student of human nature, any man gifted with a keen appreciation of remarkable development of character, to read this book without a keen relish.  He will find in it many singular developments of the action of religious belief allied to manners, customs, and habits all eminently worthy of study.  The straightforward common sense of the author, allied to his faith, has resulted in a shrewd enthusiasm, whose workings are continually manifest, and which enforces our respect for his earnestness and piety, as well as affording rare materials for analysis and reflection.  The <HI REND="italics">nai&caron;vete&acute;</HI>
063.sgm: of the author is often pleasant enough; in some instances we find it truly touching."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Bulletin</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"We like the spirit and daring of the author of this book.  But few like him live among men.  With an undoubted piety, and courage like a lion, he preached Christ at a time, in San Francisco, when Satan reigned about as triumphant as he ever has on any other spot of the cursed earth.  The book will be read, and it will do good wherever it is read."-- <HI REND="italics">Buffalo Chr. Advocate</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"This book is a real contribution to the religious history of that country.  For raciness of style it is one of the most readable books that has fallen into our hands."-- <HI REND="italics">Pittsburgh Chr. Adv</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"The state of society which Mr. Taylor describes is almost anomalous, and his pictures are boldly and clearly drawn"-- <HI REND="italics">New York Evening Post</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Similar opinions to the foregoing have been given by the Western, Southern, and Richmond Christian Advocates, Christian Advocate and Journal, National Magazine, Methodist Quarterly Review, Harper's Magazine, and many others.</P>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>The London Review for April, 1858, devotes nearly four pages to " <HI REND="italics">Seven Year's Street Preaching in San Francisco</HI>
063.sgm:<P>California Life Illustrated.<LB>"Mr. Taylor, as our readers may see by consulting our synopsis of the Quarterlies, is accepted on both sides of the Atlantic, as well as on the shores of the Pacific, as a regular `pioneer.'  The readers of his former work will find the interest aroused by its pages amply sustained in this.  Its pictorial illustrations aid in bringing California before us."-- <HI REND="italics">Methodist Quarterly Review</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"For stirring incidents in missionary life and labors, it is equal to his former work, while a wider field of observation furnishes a still more varied store of useful and curious information in regard to California.  It will well repay the reader for the time he may spend on its bright pages.  The publishers have done their part well.  The book is 12mo., in good style of binding, and printed on fair paper."-- <HI REND="italics">Pittsburgh Advocate</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"It is a work of more general interest than the author's `Seven Years' Street Preaching in San Francisco.'  It enters more largely into domestic matters, manners, and modes of living.  Life in the city, the country, `the diggings,' mining operations, the success and failures, trials, temptations, and crimes, and all that, fill the book, and attract the reader along its pages with an increasing interest.  It is at once instructive and entertaining."-- <HI REND="italics">Richmond Christian Advocate</HI>
063.sgm:<P>Rev. DR. CROOKS, of New-York, after a careful reading of California Life Illustrated, recorded his judgment as follows: "This is not a volume of mere statistics, but a series of pictures of the many colored life of the Golden State.  The author was for seven years engaged as a missionary in San Francisco, and in the discharge of his duties was brought into contact with persons of every class and shade of character.  We know of no work which gives so clear an impression of a state of society which is already passing away, but must constitute one of the most remarkable chapters in our nation's history.  The narrative is life-like, and incident and sketch follow in such rapid succession, that it is impossible for the reader to feel weary.  This book, and the author's ` <HI REND="italics">Young America</HI>
063.sgm:,' and ` <HI REND="italics">Seven Years' Street Preaching in San Francisco</HI>
063.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
063.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
063.sgm:<P>"Full of interesting and instructive information, abounding in striking incident, this is a book that everybody will be interested in reading.  Indeed scarcely anything can be found that will give a more picturesque and striking view of life in California."-- <HI REND="italics">New-York Observer</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"Mr. Taylor has recently published a work entitled <HI REND="italics">California Life Illustrated</HI>
063.sgm:, which is one of the most interesting books we ever read--full of stirring incident.  Those who wish to see California life, without the trouble of going thither, can get a better idea, especially of its religious aspects, from this and the former book of Mr. Taylor on the subject, than from any other source conveniently accessible."-- <HI REND="italics">Editor of Christian Advocate and Journal, N. Y</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"The influx of nations into California, in response to the startling intelligence that its mountains were full of solid gold, opened up a chapter in human history that had never before been witnessed.  At first it seemed as if `the root of all evil,' did indeed shoot into a baneful shade, under which none of the virtues could breathe; but soon Christianity and Gospel missionaries begun to be seen.  Among the most active of them was William Taylor, who now, on a return to the Atlantic States, gives to the world a-description of what he saw.  It is an original, instructive book, full of facts and good food for thought, and as such we heartily commend it."-- <HI REND="italics">Zion's Herald</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"It is a series of sketches, abounding in interesting and touching incidents of missionary life, dating with the early history of the country, and the great gold excitement of 1849, and up, for several years, illustrating, as with the pencil of a master in his art, the early phases of civil and social life, as they presented themselves, struggling for being and influence amid the conflicting elements of gold mania, fostered by licentiousness and unchecked by the sacred influence of religion, family, and home; containing a striking demonstration of the refining, purifying tendencies of female influence, rendered sanctifying, when pervaded by religion; giving such an insight into the secret workings of the human heart and mind as will be in vain sought for in the books called mental and moral philosophy; withdrawing the vail which ordinarily screens the emotions of the soul, leaving the patient student to look calmly at the very life pulsations of humanity, and grow wise.  Statistically the work is of great value to those seeking information concerning the country, with a view to investment or settlement."-- <HI REND="italics">Texas Advocate</HI>
063.sgm:<P>"The author of this volume is favorably known to many readers by his previous work, in which he relates the experience of seven years' street preaching in San Francisco.  He here continues the inartificial but graphic sketches which compose the substance of this volume, and, by his simple narratives, gives a lively illustration of the social condition of California.  During his residence in that state he was devoted exclusively to his work as a missionary of the Methodist Church, and, by his fearlessness, zeal, and self-denial, won the confidence of the whole population.  He was frequently thrown in contact with gamblers, <HI REND="italics">chevaliers d' industrie</HI>
063.sgm:, and adventurers of every description, but he never shrunk from the administration of faithful rebuke, and in so doing often won the hearts of the most abandoned.  His visits to the sick in the hospitals were productive of great good.  Unwearied in his exertions, he had succeeded in establishing a system of wholesome religious influences when the great financial crash in San Francisco interrupted his labors, and made it expedient for him to return to this region in order to obtain resources for future action.  His book was, accordingly, written in the interests of a good cause, which will commend it to the friends of religious culture in California, while its own intrinsic vivacity and naturalness will well reward the general reader for its perusal."-- <HI REND="italics">Harper's New Monthly Magazine</HI>
063.sgm:<P>For sale by CARLTON &amp; PORTER, 200 Mulberry-st., N. Y.</P>
065.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-065</TITLE>
065.sgm:<TITLE>Incidents on land and water, or Four years on the Pacific coast. Being a narrative of the burning of the ships Nonantum, Humayoon and Fanchon, together with many startling and interesting adventures on sea and land.  By Mrs. D.B. Bates: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
065.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
065.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
065.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
065.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
065.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
065.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
065.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-1055</LCCN>
065.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
065.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
065.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P><illus entity="a065-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NONANTUM.</P>
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065.sgm:<P>INCIDENTS ON LAND AND WATER,<LB>OR<LB>Four Years on the Pacific Coast.<LB>BEING A NARRATIVE OF THE<LB>BURNING OF THE SHIPS NONANTUM, HUMAYOON AND FANCHON,<LB>TOGETHER WITH MANY STARTLING AND INTERESTING<LB>ADVENTURES ON SEA AND LAND.</P>
065.sgm:<P>BY<LB>MRS. D. B. BATES.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Boston:<LB>JAMES FRENCH AND COMPANY.<LB>1857.</P>
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065.sgm:<P>Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by<LB>MRS. D. B. BATES,<LB>in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.<LB>STEREOTYPED AND PRINTED BY<LB>W. F. DRAPER, ANDOVER.</P>
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065.sgm:<DIV><P>TO MY MOTHER,<LB>WHOSE CHERISHED MEMORY,<LB>WHILE WANDERING FAR FROM YOUTHFUL SCENES<LB>HAS OFTEN PROVED A TALISMAN IN THE HOUR OF NEED;<LB>THE RECOLLECTION OF WHOSE DISINTERESTED LOVE,<LB>HAS GIVEN ME COURAGE TO MEET AND BRAVE SEVEREST TRIALS;<LB>THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED<LB>BY THE AUTHOR.</P>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>KIND READER!  This simple unembellished history of portions of my life's experience requires no preface.  Its deficiencies, I trust, will save it from unjust criticisms; if justly deserved, may they be in all lenity bestowed, modified by sympathy, and kindness for the humble historian.</P>
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065.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<HSEP>Page.<LB>My Childhood's Home,<HSEP>11<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>The Departure,<HSEP>12<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>Fire on board Ship Nonantum at Sea,<HSEP>17<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>The Falkland Islands,<HSEP>23<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>A South Sea Rookery,<HSEP>39<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>Departure from the Falklands, and second fire off Cape Horn,<HSEP>45<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>Third fire at sea.  Burning of the Ship Fanchon on the Coast of Peru,<HSEP>57 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>The Desolate Beach,<HSEP>68<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>Arrival and Residence at Payta,<HSEP>73<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>Arrival at Panama and visit Taboga,<HSEP>82<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>Arrival at San Francisco.  Extensive Conflagration.  Its Consequences, etc., etc.,<HSEP>96<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>Leave San Francisco for Marysville,<HSEP>111<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>Situation and Climate of Marysville.  Peep at the Country, Inhabitants, etc.<HSEP>125<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>Hotel Keeping and Life in a Canvas Shanty,<HSEP>137<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>Description of an Indian Rancheria and its Occupants,<HSEP>149<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>A Conflagration.  Hotel Keeping resumed.  Marysville Inundated,<HSEP>156 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>A Journey up the Sacramento Valley.  Descriptions of things seen and heard,<HSEP>163<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>Trip to French Corral.  Mountain Scenery.  Mountain Ball, etc.<HSEP> 169<LB>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>Journey to Park's Bar.  Experience in Mining.  Fatal results of Gambling,<HSEP>192<LB>CHAPTER XX.<LB>Visit to Gen. Sutter's residence.  Description of the grounds.  The Pleasant Surprise, or the Musical Miner.  Good Fortune of a Lady in California.  Emigrant Wagons.  Belles of the Plain.  Interesting and Ludicrous Incident.  The English Gold Diggers.  Loss of Life,<HSEP>205<LB>CHAPTER XXI.<LB>The Orphan Child.  Delights of Stage-Coaching in California.  The Hen that laid the Golden Eggs,<HSEP>222<LB>CHAPTER XXII.<LB>Execution of a man in Marysville.  The petty theft the results of bad Influence.  Accident at the Mines.  "Obstinate as a Mule."  Mysterious Disappearance of Dunbar.  Cold Blooded Murder.  Disinterested Benevolence,<HSEP>232<LB>CHAPTER XXIII.<LB>Hardships of the Mountain Settlers during the winter of 1852.  A Brother's Experience,<HSEP>254 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER XXIV.<LB>Peculiarities of John Chinaman.  Conflagration in Marysville,<HSEP>263<LB>CHAPTER XXV.<LB>Farewell to Marysville.  Departure.  Arrival at San Francisco.  Leave San Francisco for Home,<HSEP>271<LB>CHAPTER XXVI.<LB>Incidents of the passage.  Burial at Sea,<HSEP>275<LB>CHAPTER XXVII.<LB>Arrival at Panama.  Description of Hotels.  Walks about the city.  The Battlement,<HSEP>283<LB>CHAPTER XXVIII.<LB>Crossing the Isthmus.  Grave by the road-side.  The beautiful Valley of Obispo.  Take the cars for Aspinwall,<HSEP>291<LB>CHAPTER XXIX.<LB>Embark for Home, on board the North Star.  A distressed family,<HSEP>307<LB>CHAPTER XXX.<LB>Arrival at New York,<HSEP>314<LB>CHAPTER XXXI.<LB>Incidents illustrative of Morals in California,<HSEP>315<LB>CHAPTER XXXII.<LB>Conclusion,<HSEP>334</P>
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065.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>IN the town of Kingston, in the State of Massachusetts, not many miles distant from that ancient and time-honored bay whose waters years ago kissed the prow of the "May Flower" as she approached a sterile and inhospitable shore, is situated the home of my childhood.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The dear old homestead, the scene of so many fond recollections, had descended from father to son for generations.  The storms of many winters had beaten upon its roof; time had left its impress without, in the shape of moss-covered shingles; but within, all was youthful joy and gladness.  Not a link in that family circle had been severed.  In love and affection were we nurtured.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Although years have intervened since those sunny days of childhood, how often, while sojourning in distant lands, would memory recall with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>ON the 27th of July, 1850, I sailed from Baltimore in the ship <HI REND="italics">Nonantum</HI>
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065.sgm:<P>With bright hopes and glowing anticipations we left our native land.  Well was it that no prophetic visions presaged the future that awaited us.  We were wholly unconscious at the time of the remarks uttered by the spectators assembled upon the wharf, to the effect that coal was a dangerous cargo to take upon so long a voyage.</P>
065.sgm:<P>By the lessons taught by the bitter experiences of that memorable year, many shipmasters have duly profited.  Now, they stow their coal in casks, or in small quantities, have it dry when placed on board, and give it sufficient ventilation.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The ship's crew consisted of the usual complement of sailors, first and second officers, carpenter, cook, and steward; also two boys, who particularly attracted my attention.  They were pleasant little fellows, who, being possessed of a mania for the sea, had left their homes to seek their fortunes upon the treacherous deep.  Many times during the voyage had they occasion to bless the captain's wife for a bite of something good from the cabin table, slyly given to them, and in secret eaten.</P>
065.sgm:<P>This was not my first voyage.  To me the cabin of a wave-tossed vessel, and a trip across the deep green ocean, was never monotonous or disagreeable, never being afflicted with that unpleasant nausea <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Moonlight nights at sea are my especial delight.  How I love to gaze upon the illimitable deep, and watch each ripple gleaming and sparkling in the broad and trackless pathway like myriads of diamonds beneath the effulgent beams of the glorious orb of night!  Almost imperceptibly, a holy calm pervades my being, and absorbs all other faculties.  With what reluctant feelings, on such evenings as these, would I resign my seat upon deck, even after the night was far spent.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Before leaving Baltimore, my husband had purchased a beautiful Newfoundland dog, of the largest species; to which, on account of the remarkable sagacity he displayed, I became very much attached.  In my daily promenade upon deck, he was ever by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Then I had two goats on board to furnish milk, not being sailor enough to drink the strong coffee made on ship-board.  They were very playful, and once a day were allowed the liberty of the deck, which they readily improved by racing and frolicking about, in which they were joined by Dash.</P>
065.sgm:<P>In pleasant weather, when off the coast of Brazil, I have sat for hours on the ship's rail fishing for albatross, one of the largest and most formidable of the South Sea birds, as they majestically sailed along in the wake of the ship, watching the bait (a piece of pork fastened to the hook, and a small bit of board attached to the line to float it,) so temptingly displayed.  After swallowing it, and finding themselves captured, there was no struggling to free themselves, but, as you hauled in the line, they would sail gracefully along in all their native beauty and dignity.  The assistance of the two boys was required in bringing them to the deck, where, after freeing them from the hook, (which, the boys always assured me, did not hurt them in the least,) they would survey the scene around them with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Another amusement was taking a dish of crumbs, and, by throwing over a handful, call a flock of cape-pigeons to the ship's side.  Each one eager to secure his share, they would dive far down into the clear water to get those that were sinking.  Sometimes, to deceive them, I would throw over a bone that would sink rapidly.  Down they would all go after it out of sight; then appear again, chattering,--scolding, I called the incessant noise they kept <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Flocks of "Mother Carey's chickens" were occasionally following in our wake.  Those tiny little things, ever on the wing, often excited my sympathy.  About this time, the faithful dog I had learned to love so well sickened, and daily grew worse.  Every remedy we could devise was called into requisition, but availed nought.  One night, after I had retired, he dragged himself to my berth, placed his nose close to my face, and whined and moaned piteously.  I afterwards thought it prophetic of evil in the future.  Upon making my appearance upon deck the next morning, there lay the noble animal-dead.  Poor old Dash! the remembrance of thee and thy many virtues will live long on memory's leaf.</P>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>DAYS and weeks passed on, until we were in the latitude of the Rio de la Plata.  So mild and pleasant had been the weather, that I was half inclined <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Suddenly the aspect of affairs changed, and we encountered a terrific storm, the bare recollection of which almost makes me shudder.  The ship's cabin was a house upon deck; and, as the storm increased in violence, the angry waves dashing higher and higher as each successive blast lashed the mighty deep, fears were entertained that the house would be forcibly detached from the deck.  Heavy shutters were fastened against the windows as a protection to the glass against the storm, thereby rendering the cabin dark as night.  A lantern was kept burning through the day, as well as by night.  Owing to the violent motion of the ship, I was compelled, for the most part of the time, to keep my berth, to prevent being dashed against the cabin walls.  I very reluctantly consented to confine myself to my state-room, but not, however, until I had received some severe bumps.  So <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Oh, it was terrible to lie so many hours listening to the roaring of the storm without!  I wished very much to get a glimpse of the ocean when lashed into such fury, but there was no aperture whereby I could gratify my curiosity.  I had only to pray, and listen alone.  My husband was constantly on deck, taking neither refreshment nor sleep.  I wondered not at his anxiety, although I knew not then the imminent danger impending from fire as well as water; for, the second morning after the commencement of the storm, smoke had been discovered between decks.  The alarming truth instantly flashed upon our minds.  The gas that originated from the coal had generated fire.  Orders were immediately given to get up provisions and water sufficient to last until we could be released from our awful situation.  While thus engaged, several of the men were rendered senseless from the effects of the gas.  They next proceeded to close the hatches, and caulked every seam tightly, in the hope of arresting the progress of the fire it was impossible to extinguish.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Captain B-- shaped his course for the nearest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>I also noticed the steward caulking some of the seams in the pantry.  Upon inquiry, he gave me to understand it was necessary to use this precaution, to prevent any liquids he should chance to spill from running down on the cargo,--a foolish excuse, to be sure; but, however, it proved effective.  But, when the gas and smoke escaped through seams which were apparently water-tight, and made its appearance in the cabin, concealment was no longer possible.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Upon learning the sad truth, for a time all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:fortitude and self-control forsook me.  I thought of my dear old home far away, in its quiet seclusion; of the loved ones wont to assemble there to talk and pray for the safety of the absent one.  I felt I should never more behold them, and that they would ever remain in ignorance of our fate.  After the first moments of despair, Hope again asserted her empire.  Repinings, I reasoned, were useless.  The Almighty hand which formed the channels of the deep had power, I knew, to preserve us, and guide us, amidst storm and darkness, to our homes and havens of rest.  The greatest consternation prevailed among the crew.  At times the gale would abate, only to be renewed with increased violence.  We were soon obliged to vacate the cabin, which was filled to suffocation with gas; and, for five consecutive days and nights, I remained in a chair which was lashed to the deck.  It was quite cold, and often I was drenched with the water and spray that would dash at short intervals across the deck.  Never can I forget those dreary days of suffering that I sat gazing from the narrow deck upon the boundless expanse of tossing, foam-crested billows.  As far as eye could reach, no friendly sail appeared to which we could look for safety; nothing was seen but the sweeping surge, as it came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>If possible, the nights exceeded in anxiety the days; impenetrable darkness surrounded us, relieved only by sheets of white foam dashing over the bows, as the doomed ship madly plunged into the angry waters.  When one sea more powerful than another would strike her, causing her to tremble in every timber, I would grasp my chair, shut my eyes, and think we were fast being engulfed in the sea.  Oh, those nights of agony!  Never, through all the vicissitudes of after life, will one thought, one feeling, then endured, fade from the volume of memory.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Each day the ship was getting hotter; gas and smoke were escaping at every seam.  We constantly feared an explosion, as the natural consequence of so much confined gas.  What a solace to me, in those days of trial, was the trust, the implicit confidence, I felt in that mighty Guardian Power that is ever around and about us, and in whose protection we are forever safe!</P>
065.sgm:<P>On the twelfth day after fire was first discovered, we made the Falkland Islands.  As we approached <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>THE entrance to the outer bay is called Port William.  About twenty miles up this bay, an English colony is established.  The entrance to Port William is designated by a tall flag-staff.  At the time of our arrival, it was blowing a close-reefed-topsail breeze, directly down the bay; and, as night was approaching, the captain deemed it advisable to select the most sheltered situation at hand, and anchor until morning.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Formerly, this colony was located up Berkley's Sound, and called Port Louis.  It has since been removed to its present site, and styled Port Stanley.  The Falkland Islands are situated in the South <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:Atlantic Ocean, where the mariner guides his course at night by the sacred constellation of the Southern Cross, and between the parallels of 51 deg. and 53 deg. south, and extending from 57 deg. to nearly 62 deg. west.  The only two of considerable size are the East and West Falkland.  These are separated by a channel.  Around these islands are numerous rocks, whose distance from the shores, where tides run strongly, and winds are violent as well as sudden, renders it rather difficult to navigate.  In approaching land, and particularly when entering a harbor, a good look-out should be kept for fixed kelp, which grows upon every rock covered by the sea, and not far below the surface.  Lying upon the water, the leaves and stalk serve as well as a buoy to warn of hidden danger.  A region more exposed to storms, both in summer and winter, it would be difficult to mention.  High winds are prevalent, and very violent at times.  During the summer, a calm day is an extraordinary event.  Generally speaking, the nights are less windy than the days.  Altogether, the appearance of these lonely isles of the South are dismal and uninviting in the extreme.  Moorland and black bog extend in nearly every direction; although there are valleys affording coarse, excellent grass, upon which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The ship being safely moored, I entreated my husband to take me on shore.  After much persuasion, he consented.  A boat was lowered, in which, after much difficulty, I was placed.  This was effected by tying a rope around my waist, and lowering me down the ship's side; then watching an opportunity when the boat was in a right position, to "lower away."  This method was of necessity adopted, the sea being so rough, I lacked the courage to leave the ship the usual way.  When my feet were placed once more on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
065.sgm:<P>We approached, and, judging from the writing found upon the walls, it had been the resort of sailors thrown upon that inhospitable coast.  In it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Nothing could be seen in any direction inland but barren hills; yet, cheerless as was the prospect on shore, no entreaty, or even command, of my husband, could induce me to return to that burning ship.  Here was a sad dilemma for my husband to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Next morning, as we were about to repair to the boat,--for, upon reflection, I concluded that to be the only way by which the settlement could be reached,--a horseman appeared in the distance, riding at a furious pace directly for us.  As he approached, and reined in his jet-black steed in front of our party, I certainly never beheld such a perfect specimen of equestrian grace and manly beauty.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Springing from his horse, he accosted us in a language unintelligible to all except "Old Tom," as he was designated by his shipmates.  He proved to be one of a class of men denominated guachos, who are employed in lassoing and bringing in wild cattle.  Tom soon acquainted him with every particular concerning us; whereupon he insisted that the capitan's sen&tilde;ora should go with him to his ranch, about four miles distant, where every attention would be lavished by his sen&tilde;ora to render me comfortable until I could proceed to the settlement.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Our Spanish friend laughed at the idea of my being afraid to mount his spirited horse, and even objecting to be seated in front of him--the manner in which they often ride with sen&tilde;oritas.  He mounted his horse alone; while Mr. Wood and myself walked by his side.  My husband returned to the ship.  We found it very tiresome travelling over the bogs, with the wind blowing almost a gale.  After panting and puffing, and being obliged several times to stop and recover breath, we reached the top of a little eminence; and there, sure enough, was the veritable ranch.  It looked so pleasant and home-like about the little cottage, that in vain I endeavored to repress those outgushings of the heart engendered by the sight of objects which recalled vividly to mind home, and all the warm and kindly associations connected therewith.</P>
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065.sgm:<P>A lovely little Spanish woman met us at the door, and, after exchanging a few words with her husband, she embraced me affectionately, led me to a pleasant little room looking out upon the bay, and placed a loaf of bread and pitcher of milk on a table by my side.  She seemed really grieved because I could not swallow one mouthful.  My feelings were fast gaining the ascendency.  So much sympathy as she expressed, by her gestures and tender offices, completely won my affections.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I had taken very little food after learning the ship was on fire, and, with feelings all the while wrought to such a state of excitement, the revulsion well-nigh prostrated me.  In the meantime, word had reached the settlement that there was a ship in distress outside, and a number of the most popular men of the place had started to render any necessary assistance.  Sometime after noon, they reached the Spaniard's house, where we were, and learning of Mr. Wood the particulars, took him into the boat, and, with the exception of three of them, proceeded to meet the ship.  It was blowing so hard, they would be compelled to beat the ship up the bay, which would, of course, occupy some time.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Mr. Hamlin, the physician, the surveyor-general, and the clergyman, (the three who remained,) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Therefore, I bade adieu to my beautiful Spanish friend, and about sundown reached the narrow entrance to the inner harbor.  Two large wooden men stand on each side of the entrance, pointing towards the town.  Passing through, you find yourself in one of the nicest, land-locked harbors in the world, where ships of the largest tonnage can lie in safety.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The town is built at the base of the hills, which rise gradually from this beautiful basin.  How far away from the busy, bustling world seemed this little hamlet! and how quiet and serene, I thought, must pass the lives of those dwelling upon this remote isle!  The sun was shedding his last golden rays upon the surrounding hill-tops, before retiring to his hesperian couch.  While inanimate nature was welcoming me to this haven of rest, how inexpressibly lonely I felt at heart, surrounded by strangers!  No doubt they would extend a friendly greeting; but, oh, how my heart yearned for the warm welcome of some home-friend!</P>
065.sgm:<P>Mr. Hamlin took me to his house, where I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Late in the afternoon, the ship appeared at the entrance.  After dropping anchor, my husband called a survey, opened her hatches, and found her to be so badly on fire, they decided to run her ashore, and scuttle her.  He selected a spot which happened to be opposite the little grave-yard.  Slowly and majestically was she wafted to her place of rest.  Never more would she gallantly breast old oceans's wave.  With tearful eyes I watched her motions.  She had been my home so long, I loved her as such.  They cut holes in her side, and sank her in depth of water sufficient to cover the fire.  For two days she was enveloped in steam, which precluded all possibility of gaining the deck.  After the fire was extinguished, they stopped the holes, and worked the pumps incessantly, without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:diminishing in the least the depth of water in the ship.  She had bilged; her beams and stancheons were burnt off; and her lower deck had fallen in.  She was condemned and sold at auction.  It was our intention to go directly home, as soon as an opportunity presented.  The isolated situation of the island prevented its being visited often, especially by ships homeward-bound; therefore, our stay there might be indefinitely protracted.  There were about four hundred inhabitants in this remote colony, consisting of English, Spanish, and French.  The people were under the immediate jurisdiction of a governor, who ruled with despotic power.  The governor, clergyman, doctor, governor's secretary, surveyor-general, and lawyer, are appointed by the queen, and receive a salary of four hundred pounds sterling per year, with the exception of the governor, who has eight hundred.  These, with their families, also Lloyd's agent, and <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
065.sgm: merchant, constitute the gentry, as they style themselves.  The governor lives in princely style.  To be seated in his reception-room, one would imagine himself in some English palace.  Everything has been transported from England--both house and furniture.  All the frame-buildings on the island were brought either from England or the main-land.  Those of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>There is not a tree on the island, with the exception of a few apologies for the same in the governor's garden.  They, upon being transplanted into such ungenial soil, had assumed a stinted, sickly appearance.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The governor was a stern, austere-looking personage, greatly to be feared, and seldom loved.  One little incident, that came under my own immediate perception, I will relate.  It will serve, in a measure, to illustrate his arbitrary propensities.  His household consisted of himself, wife, and two sons.  The eldest was an imbecile, and so perfectly child-like in his disposition, that he readily won the sympathy of all the inhabitants.  The youngest was a wild, head-strong sort of a chap, about fourteen years of age.  For him they had employed a young governess, whom they brought with them from England.  This young lady they treated more like a menial than as a companion for their children.  They looked upon the young instructress as one born to labor and endure, seemingly unconscious that there were as deep fountains of sorrow and love <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The governor's wife boasted of being a descendant of the "fair maid of Perth."  I have no reason to doubt the tie of consanguinity, although she certainly had not inherited any of the personal attractions of her lovely progenitor.</P>
065.sgm:<P>They were all very kind to us, showing every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>To diminish our expenses, we concluded to go to housekeeping.  My husband rented the only vacant building in the place, a miserable, barn-like shanty, for which he paid the exorbitant sum of thirty dollars per month.  Thither we moved ourselves: we had little else to move.  Nearly every one contributed some article of domestic use.  Our larder was supplied with wild-fowl and beef, also a species of fish which are taken from the numerous streams which intersect the country.  They are designated trout, but do not in appearance or flavor resemble our own speckled trout, which by epicures are considered such a nice treat.  No kind of vegetables could be procured at any price.  The inclemency of the weather, even in summer months, precludes the growth of the most hardy kind.  Cold storms <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Often, when seated at my window, my attention had been attracted towards a lovely little girl, with soft dark eyes, and long auburn ringlets hanging in rich profusion over her shoulders.  She was usually accompanied by a tall, dignified, melancholy-looking individual, who, I afterwards learned, stood in the relation of father.  His very countenance, which was seldom irradiated by a smile, bore traces of ineffable sorrow.  They would spend hours in sailing around the bay in a fancy yacht, which he kept moored opposite our house.  Upon inquiry, I learned that for some time the gossiping and wonder-loving portion of the community had been kept in constant agitation regarding the mystery that surrounded Mr. Montague (for by that name was he known) and his family.  He kept himself aloof from all society; and the only servant he kept had never been known to speak an intelligible word to any one.  She seemed devotedly attached to her master, and guarded little Myrtie with watchful tenderness.  Myrtie came to my door one day, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:bringing me a basket of nice little fish, and gracefully presented them, saying that she often amused herself by fishing.  After that, she became a daily visitor.  Daily my interest in that child increased.  She was wonderfully endued with intellectual powers for one of her years.  One day, she said to me, "Do you know why I brought you those fish?  and what brings me every day to see you?"  I told her I did not.  Said she, "I do so love to look in your face!  It makes me feel happy.  I always think of some one I loved well, and called mamma.  It seems such a long time ago,--so <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
065.sgm:<P>"I never saw her again.  Then old `Nurse Bell' took care of me.  We sailed on the water a long, long time before we came here."  Her papa, she said, "was very kind, and she loved him; but she could love him better, if he would talk more about mamma."  When she asked him to tell her <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
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065.sgm:about her, he would shake his head, look very gloomy, and say, "Your mamma is in heaven."  Her father was her only instructor, and she was far advanced in her studies.  He also taught her music: she played and sang sweetly.  For once I felt inclined to pardon the inquisitive; for they certainly had food for idle speculation.  Dear little Myrtie! often have I sighed when thinking of your lonely situation, uncheered by the presence of that guardian angel of childhood--a mother--on whom you could bestow that wealth of affection concentrated in an almost <HI REND="italics">too</HI>
065.sgm:<P>The winter preceding our arrival at the islands had been one of unusual inclemency.  Communication with the main-land was entirely cut off before the winter's supply of hay and grain had been procured.  In consequence, the cattle suffered incredibly.  The snow, for two months, lay upon the ground to the depth of two feet.  All the sustenance the cattle could obtain was insufficient to keep off starvation.  They were often found dead, thirty and forty in heaps together.</P>
065.sgm:<P>When the English first established this colony, they intended to export hides, tallow, seal-skins, and seal-oil.  As yet, they have shipped no tallow.  Sealing is carried on to a considerable extent.</P>
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065.sgm:<P>England's convicts, when banished to the sunny isle of Australia, are not as deserving of the sympathy of the philanthropist as are those old pensioners, to the number of thirty, who, with their families, have been induced, by the promises held out to them, and which they have found, to their sorrow, can never be fulfilled, to leave merry England, for a home on these barren islands.</P>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>The feathered tribes are very numerous on these islands of Southern hemisphere.  Of penguins, there are four kinds--the king penguin, the macaroni, the jackass, and the rookery.  The first of these is much larger than a goose; the other three are smaller, differing in appearance in several particulars.  They all walk upright, with their legs projecting from their bodies in the same direction with their tails.  When fifty or more of them are seen in file, they appear, at a distance, like a company of soldiers.  They carry their heads high, with their wings drooping like two arms.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>When tamed, the penguin becomes quite tractable.  A lady at the isle had domesticated and made quite a pet of a king penguin, which she, however, proposed to relinquish for the sum of thirty dollars.  She had taught him to sit at table with her.  A sip of coffee he seemed to enjoy with much gusto; and if, perchance, she attempted to raise the cup to her lips before first presenting his majesty with a draught, he would, quick as thought, with a blow from one of his "hands," dash the cup to the floor.  He followed her about the house as a child follows its mother; and she assured us he was a great deal of company for her when alone.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Another sea-fowl peculiar to the islands is the upland-goose, which is about the size of our domestic goose.  Their plumage is rich and glossy: that of the gander is dazzlingly white.  The down is equal to that of the swan.  The teal are also found here, and far surpassing in beauty those of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Previous to our arrival, three other vessels had put into the harbor in distress, and had been condemned.  The crews of these vessels were constantly out gunning.  I would see them often returning over the hills, laden with those beautiful white geese, looking like so many swans.  A Dutch captain, whose vessel had been condemned, was very contentedly pursuing the "even tenor of his way," bringing in the game, while "mine frow" was as industriously manufacturing feather beds.  Never having heard them say anything about getting away, I presume they are yet at the old vocation.</P>
065.sgm:<P>A moral philosopher and naturalist would be highly interested in contemplating, for days, the operations of a South Sea rookery, observing the order and regularity with which everything is conducted.  When a sufficient number of penguins, albatross, etc., are assembled on shore, they proceed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Although the penguin and albatross profess such sincere attachment for one another, they not only form their nests in a different manner, but the penguin will rob her friend's nest, whenever an opportunity presents; being ambitious, I suppose, to produce a large family.  The penguin's nest is formed by an excavation in the earth; while that of the albatross if formed by throwing up a mound of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The camp of the rookery is in continual motion; penguins passing through the different paths, on their return from aquatic excursions, eager to caress their mates after a temporary absence; while the latter are passing out in quest of refreshment and recreation.  At the same time, the air is almost darkened by an innumerable number of albatross hovering over the rookery, continually lighting, and meeting their companions; while others are rising, and shaping their course for the sea.  To see these creatures of the ocean so faithfully discharge the duties assigned them by the great Creator; to witness their affectionate re-unions, their numerous acts of tenderness and courtesy to each other, the reflection naturally arises, that, if there was only as much harmony and genuine affection between wedded pairs of the human family, the connubial state would then indeed be "all that we dream of heaven."</P>
065.sgm:<P>We had remained at the islands about a month, when the ship Humayoon, from Dundee, (McKenzie, master,) bound to Valparaiso, laden with coal, tar, and liquors, put into port to procure water and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>I cast a last, sad, lingering look at the old Nonantum, and bade adieu to kind friends, whom, probably, I should never meet again on the journey of life, although they would be often remembered.  During my sojourn at the islands, although I found kind friends, I passed many a gloomy hour.  As the season approached which, from time immemorial, in dear old New England, has been observed as a day of thanksgiving and prayer,--a day, of all others, when severed families assemble under the paternal roof, to meet once again the loved friends of their youth, to tread again the paths hallowed by childhood's earliest recollection,--the anniversary of such a day, while in this remote region, crowded my memory with reminiscences of the past, pleasurable, from the associations which they recalled, and painful, from the position which I then occupied.</P>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>ONCE more I found myself on board a good ship, bounding gayly over the blue waters.  Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>He was a skilful navigator, and, on his voyages around Cape Horn, invariably passed through the Straits of Le Maire, which separate Staten Land from Terra del Fuego, and, by "hugging the land," escape some of the severe blows so prevalent in that region.  He having been on several exploring expeditions in those waters, I experienced a degree of security I should not otherwise have felt in approaching so near to huge and jagged rocks, that for ages had reared their frowning heads, as if in defiance of old ocean's roar.  We passed the veritable Cape Horn (situated on Hermit Island) in such close proximity, one could distinctly discern the barren soil.  While I stood gazing at the conical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<illus entity="a065-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BURNING OF THE HUMAYOON.</P>
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065.sgm:<P>That night, it came on to blow tremendously.  Next morning, we found ourselves eighty miles from land, and, horror of horrors, the ship on fire!  My heart refused to give credence to the startling report, until my eyes beheld it.  Our worst fears were too soon confirmed by the flames darting upwards, and igniting the hatch the men were vainly endeavoring to caulk; for fear had paralyzed their faculties.  When that burnt and fell in, the flames shot upward almost to the top-mast-head.  The combustible nature of the cargo caused the fire to increase with wonderful rapidity.  The long-boat was launched, and I was placed therein, with my pet-goat; for I would not leave her behind: the other I had given to Myrtie.  After several ineffectual attempts to get at some bread and water, the fire and smoke drove them all in confusion to the boat.  They pulled off a short distance, and we gazed in sadness and silence upon what was so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:recently our happy home, now a burning wreck.  The calmness of despair pervaded my whole being: all was comprehended at a glance,--eighty miles from land, and that an inhospitable coast, inhabited only by savages; without bread or water; in an open boat, exposed to the inclemency of Cape Horn weather!  People on the land, seated by their pleasant firesides, imagine they can understand our feelings at that time; but it is impossible.  Even when danger, in its most appalling form, threatens on the land, there is generally some avenue of escape open.  But at sea, with nought but a frail plank between you and a watery grave,--and that so fragile, one dash of those mighty waves might annihilate it,--oh, the horror of such a situation can <HI REND="italics">never</HI>
065.sgm:<P>All at once, the joyful cry of "Sail, ho!" was shouted from our midst; and, far away, I could descry a speck upon the ocean.  Nearer and nearer it came, until, when within about a mile of us, she "hove to," and lowered away a boat, which came bounding over the water to our relief.  This ship proved to be the Symmetry, of Liverpool, Captain Thompson, bound to Acapulco, and laden with coal.  How that word rang in my ears!  It seemed to me every ship that floated was coal-laden.  We repaired <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Captain Thompson now made sail, and soon the remains of that noble ship which, only twelve days previously, had borne us from our island retreat, was obscured from our view.  Her commander dropped a tear to her memory, and retired in silence to the cabin.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Captain Thompson was accompanied by his wife and family.  I was pleased at the idea of enjoying for a season, however brief, the society of a female friend.  Capt. Thompson had previously informed us that our stay on board the Symmetry must of necessity be prolonged no farther than such a time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Night had now spread its sable mantle over the world of waters; the bright constellations were reflected in the deep; and the noble ship, with majestic and graceful motion, was cleaving a pathway for herself through the rapidly heaving billows.  My thoughts, as my eyes wandered over the waste of waters, were busy with the past and present,--for the future I could only hope.  But a few months had intervened since leaving Baltimore; and yet how much intense anxiety, actual suffering, and harrowing suspense, were crowded into that short space!  One day on board a burning ship, with no hope of escape; then a port of safety in view; then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:on board another ship, with every prospect of a speedy termination of our eventful voyage; then, again, assailed by fire, and obliged to seek safety in an open boat, far from land; and then transferred to a place of temporary safety,--for what could we expect but a recurrence of those awful scenes, while on board a coal-laden ship?  "What," thought I, "will be the end?  Shall I ever be permitted to reach in safety the land of my birth?"  I dared not entertain a hope seemingly so fallacious.  As time progressed, I was often reminded, by painful contrast, of the fleeting happiness enjoyed on board the Humayoon.  <HI REND="italics">There</HI>
065.sgm: a spirit of harmony and love seemed to pervade the whole ship's company.  The reverse of this at sea is disagreeable in the extreme; and the truth of this assertion was never more clearly demonstrated than on board the Symmetry.  In lieu of heart-stirring songs and happy faces, gloomy frowns, and curses "not loud but deep," met the ear at every turn; anarchy and discord went hand in hand.  Daily I scanned the ocean in search of a sail, anticipating a happy change, yet dreading what I most desired; for had not experience taught me that whatever we most earnestly desire, when attained, often proves the source of the keenest misery?  At the expiration <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>In the interim, Captain McKenzie had effected a compromise with Captain Thompson, to the effect that he would sail as near to the port of Valparaiso as would render it safe and feasible for Captain McKenzie and crew to embark in their long-boat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>I should judge, the two ships lay about a mile apart.  Soon after we welcomed Captain Lunt on board the Symmetry, the heavens became suddenly overcast; and, as appearances betokened a squall, it was thought advisable for me to depart instantly with Captain Lunt; while my husband should collect what effects we had preserved from the Humayoon and my goat, and come in the ship's boat.  Thinking and hoping we should reach the Fanchon before the squall struck, they watched us with intense anxiety from the ships.  When little more than mid-way between the ships, it came.  Drenched with spray, and clinging to my seat, I dared not express my terror other than by looks.  "Do not be alarmed," said Capt. Lunt.  "There is no danger to be apprehended.  We shall soon reach the Fanchon; and, when once on her deck, all trouble and danger will flee away."  By such cheering words, he endeavored to divert my thoughts from our by no means enviable situation.  My heart almost ceased its pulsations as we bounded over the white-crested billows.  How intently were we watched by those on board the Symmetry!  When we would disappear from their view in the trough of the sea, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:Mrs. Thompson would exclaim, "They are gone! they are lost!" and, when we appeared on the top of some mighty wave, would the fervent exclamation, "Thank God, they are safe!" ascend from every heart.  By some mischance or other, in attempting to get alongside, we were swept towards the ship's stern.  She was plunging and rolling terribly.  "My God, we are under the stern!" was the hasty ejaculation borne to my ears; and there, towering high above us over our frail boat, was the noble ship, threatening instant destruction.  It was but momentary.  By almost superhuman exertion, the boat's crew succeeded in placing our frail bark beyond the reach of imminent danger; and, as the ship dashed down into the bosom of her native element, we were beyond her reach, but not far enough to escape the tumultuous dashing of the waters, which for an instant caused me to doubt my being in the boat.  The second attempt to reach her side was crowned with success.  A rope was thrown from the ship, which was caught by those in the boat.  It required the united exertions of all to keep the boat from being dashed to pieces against the ship's side.  It seemed almost an impossibility for me to ascend the side of the ship unassisted; but so I must go, if I went at all, and that right <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<illus entity="a065-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TRANSFER FROM THE SHIP SYMMETRY TO THE FANCHON.</P>
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065.sgm:speedily.  I could scarcely retain an upright position in the boat; and yet, as the ship rolled towards us, my instructions were to jump and catch the man-ropes, and cling hold until she careened the other way, and then to climb the steps as quickly as possible.  The water was boiling and surging between the ship and the boat in such a manner as to intimidate a much <HI REND="italics">larger</HI>
065.sgm: female than myself.  Captain Lunt was to give the word when to jump; and, when "Now is your time!  now is your time!"  came thundering in my ears, all my innate fortitude deserted me; I was powerless to move.  Captain Lunt, rightly conjecturing that, unless moved by some sudden impulse of resentment, I should never gain the deck, looked and spoke his feelings of disapproval so palpably, (he afterwards assured me it cost him no small effort to conceal his genuine feelings,) that I felt would make an attempt, "live or die, sink or swim."  When next the word was given, it was promptly obeyed.  I jumped, caught one of the ropes with both hands, and clung with the tenacity of one whose only hope of preservation depended upon a firm grasp.  I was all the time cheered by the cry of "Hold on; you are safe!"  In a moment I had clasped the other rope, ascended the steps, and was placed upon deck by the mate.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:I could recollect nothing more distinctly, until I found myself in a beautiful cabin, attended by an old man, judging from his silvered locks; yet his fresh and healthy appearance gave evidence that, although "Father Time" had whitened his hair, he had made but few inroads upon a healthy constitution.  He was the steward--an old and devoted servant to the captain, in whose employ he had been for seventeen years.  He was a native of England.  His words of consolation to me were, "God bless your dear little heart!"  accompanied by a pat on my shoulder; "may you never be in such a situation again.  Lord bless you!  The sight of one of my girls in a like situation would well-nigh break my heart."  Soon my husband arrived in safety.  Captain Lunt made sail, and, long before the shades of evening descended, the Symmetry was scarcely discernible.  The Fanchon was far her superior, as regarded sailing qualities and symmetrical proportions.  All the symmetry the other could boast of lay in the name.  I wished her success, and a safe arrival at her destined port.  She had been my home for thirteen days; and, although there were many disagreeable incidents connected with our stay on board, yet she had appeared to render assistance, when our hopes were at the lowest ebb.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>OUR home on board the Fanchon was all the most fastidious could desire.  Captain Lunt was possessed of all those gentlemanly attributes which are calculated to win the possessor friends, and respect from all with whom he associates.  Ever joyous and light-hearted, the salutary effects produced by the exercise of these excellent properties seemed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:to pervade the hearts of all subject to his control.  He also being a judicious disciplinarian, the greatest neatness and order imaginable prevailed throughout the ship.  Our fancied security--our sanguine expectations that our troubles from fire at sea were at an end--our hopes of a safe and speedy termination of our voyage--all these heart-cheering feelings were sustained and strengthened by reiterated assurances from Captain Lunt that there was no danger whatever of the Fanchon's burning, she was so well ventilated.  In fact, he attributed the destruction of the other ships to want of proper ventilation.  Besides, he argued, that if there had been the least probability of its taking fire, it would have done so long ago.  We all conceded his arguments were decidedly conclusive; and, for a few days, anxiety, fear, suspense, and all the attendant train of harrowing reflections, were strangers to my bosom.  But as frail and fleeting as are all the evanescent joys of earth were my hopes.  On the 25th of December, in the evening, as we sat conversing of the day, and the manner in which they were celebrating it at our far distant homes, and vainly wishing that, by another Christmas, our places in the family circle would not be vacant, a puff of air was wafted into the cabin, so strongly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>They failed, however, in eradicating from my mind the impression that the coal was on fire.  Upon retiring for the night, the thought of being, for the third time, on board a burning ship, so harassed me as to completely banish slumber from my pillow.  Next morning, the captain instituted a search throughout the ship, which proved, beyond a doubt in his mind, there could be no fire.  We were now about twelve hundred miles from land, with a fair wind, on the direct course for San Francisco.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Things remained in this state for two or three days.  I cannot affirm that the minds of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
065.sgm: were perfectly free from apprehension; yet, as strict watch was kept, and nothing except that disagreeable smell of gas was apparent to confirm my fears, I felt a little more at rest.  The third day, as Capt. Lunt was watching one of the large ventilators on deck, he saw something having the appearance of smoke escaping therefrom.  He sprang down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>For several days in succession, it would remain perfectly calm.  The nights were beautifully serene; not a cloud, or the slightest film of vapor, appeared on the face of the deep blue canopy of the heavens.  The moon, and countless starry host of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>At night, signal-lights were kept burning, in the hope of attracting the attention of some vessel which might be passing.  For days look-outs were stationed aloft, and more than once were our ears gladdened with the joyful cry of "Sail, ho!" which as often proved a vain illusion.  The strained vision and anxious solicitude of those on the look-out caused them to imagine they saw that which they vainly desired to behold.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I was induced, by the entreaties and advice of my husband, seconded by those of Captain Lunt, to adopt gentlemen's apparel.  Considering the danger and exposure we might be subjected to, should we be compelled to remain any length of time in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:the boats,--to which, unless relief arrived from some other source, we should resort to soon,--it was not, everything considered, a bad idea, which might never have been carried into effect had Capt. Lunt been as large in stature as my husband.  Accordingly, from the captain's wardrobe was selected a pair of black pants, a green hunting-coat, black satin vest, bosom, and collar worn a&grave; la Byron, and a purple velvet smoking-cap.  Arrayed in this garb, I was scarcely recognizable by my friends on board.  Days came and passed, and yet no relief appeared.  Daily, convincing proofs appeared to warn us of the slow but sure destruction of the ship, in the form of gas and smoke, which were escaping through every seam.  The beautiful paint-work and gilding of the cabin assumed the darkest hue; everything on board seemed shrouded in the sable habiliments of mourning.  Slowly and gradually we neared the land; and, after three weeks of intense suspense and solicitude, the exulting cry of "Land, ho!" was echoed far and near.  It was an uninhabited part of the coast of Peru--a small bay, or, rather, indenture made in at this place, called the Bay of Sechura.  Into this bay the ship was guided; and, when about two miles from shore, she was brought to an anchor, at about four o'clock, P.M.  As soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:as the wished-for haven appeared, I hastened to my state-room, and doffed my male attire, supremely happy to exchange what I had so reluctantly adopted, and what each succeeding day of usage rendered still more distasteful.  Rest assured, O ye of the opposite sex, that I, for one, will never attempt to appropriate to myself the indispensables, or the love of lordly power which usually accompanies them, but leave <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
065.sgm:<P>Long before we reached our anchorage, the roaring of the surf, as it dashed upon the lonely beach, sounded like a mournful dirge to our ears.  There appeared to be a short stretch of sandy beach, circumscribed by high and jutting rocks.  Around us, on either side, were innumerable breakers, threatening destruction as we approached nearer; yet we heeded not our dangerous proximity to sunken rocks, but the noble ship bounded gayly over the waters, unmindful of the destiny awaiting the doomed.</P>
065.sgm:<P>In the distance could be discerned the Andes Mountains, rearing their lofty heads in silent grandeur, and seeming to penetrate the blue dome of the o'er-arching heavens.  Immediately upon bringing the ship to an anchor, preparations were made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:to effect a landing in the boats.  Captain Lunt and my husband deposited their nautical instruments and charts, and some few articles of clothing, in a chest which they had rendered as nearly waterproof as possible, and consigned it to one of the boats.  We threw overboard all the spare spars upon deck, and everything that would float.  We had no provisions or water to take on shore, and had been refreshed with none through the day.  There was one pig on board that had left Baltimore in the ship, and one hen.  These, together with my pet-goat, the sailors took under their own immediate protection, and succeeded in landing them on the beach.  The pig, in the height of his terror, beat an instantaneous retreat into one of the numerous caves, or recesses, situated at the base of perpendicular cliffs, which rose nearly two hundred feet, and presented an effectual barrier to any attempt that might be made to scale them.  I recollect distinctly my sensations on leaving the ship in a boat; how intently I watched the foaming surf we were fast approaching, and which had already engulfed the boat in advance; then an indistinct recollection of roaring and splashing of water,--of voices heard above the din of all, giving directions,--of being dragged, minus bonnet and shawl, through the surf <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<illus entity="a065-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BURNING OF THE FANCHON ON THE COAST OF PERU.</P>
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065.sgm:upon the sandy beach.  Of my very unceremonious introduction within the precincts of the province of Peru, I have no very pleasing recollections.  After removing everything off the ship's deck, they ran her still nearer in, and scuttled her; but the fire had made such progress, it was impossible to save her.  In two hours after we left her deck, she burst out into a sheet of flame.  The fire caught to the sails, which were spread to the breeze, and she was a sheet of fire to the mast-heads.  Here, in this lonely bay, lay the fine ship Fanchon, and burnt to the water's edge.  Nothing could exceed the almost awful profoundness of the solitude by which we were surrounded--a silence broken only by the roaring and crackling of the flames, as they wreathed and shot far upward, illuminating the midnight darkness, and casting the reflection of their fiery glare far out over the lonely deep,--and the deep roar of the eternally restless waves, as they dashed in rapid succession upon the beach at our feet.  It is quite impossible to convey by language an adequate conception of the solemn magnificence of this midnight scene.  The burning ship in the foreground, the light from which revealed the sublime altitude of the mountains in the background, whose barren heads seemed to pierce the sky, every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>I sank into an unquiet slumber superinduced by exhaustion, fairly cried myself to sleep, and rested my weary limbs upon a couch of beach-sand.  Next morning, we discovered several rafts (or, as they are there denominated, balsas) coming into the bay.  They were covered with Indians--a sort of mongrel race, who live principally upon their balsas, scarcely ever visiting the shore except to procure water and potatoes.  They subsist mostly upon raw fish.  They speak the Spanish language.  They anchored their crafts outside the surf, then dove into the water, and swam to the shore.  They were nearly in a state of nudity.  Their demeanor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:was entirely pacific.  They advanced towards us with hands extended, in token of friendship.  They had been attracted to the spot by the light from the burning ship, and had assembled in considerable numbers, doubtless in the hope of obtaining pillage, as they rather demurred in rendering any assistance, unless stimulated by a promise of compensation.  For "mucha pesos," they agreed to furnish us with water and sweet potatoes while we remained upon the beach.  They peremptorily refused to take us to Payta,--the nearest settlement, which was fifty miles distant,--thinking, doubtless, it would be a more profitable speculation for them to protract our stay upon the beach, until, at least, the "pesos" were all gone.  I was constrained to offer my pet-goat to them, in exchange for water: she had long since ceased to furnish milk.  Poor thing!  after having encountered so many fiery trials, she was but a wreck of her former self.  Much as I regretted to part with her, I felt it to be a duty I owed her, for past favors received, to mitigate her woes as far as it lay in my power.  With a last, sad, lingering look at her mistress, and a despairing farewell bleat, she was dragged away.  The natives informed us we were fifteen leagues from any fresh water; thereby giving us to understand that we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>HERE indeed was a new phase of existence, gloomy enough in anticipation, yet far preferable to the dangerous scenes in which it had heretofore been my fortune to participate.  The sailors pitched four small tents; two for themselves, and two for the officers.  These served for a shelter at night; but, during the day, when the sun shone with an almost scorching fervency of heat, unmitigated by a single cloud on the face of the sky, it was almost impossible to remain in them.  To augment our troubles, the fleas were so numerous and so bloodthirsty, that for a few days I was in perpetual motion.  When once they made a lodgment in our clothing, it was useless to attempt to exterminate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:them; and <HI REND="italics">they</HI>
065.sgm:<P>Captain Lunt proposed to send to the American Consul at Payta for assistance to remove us from the beach.  His mate, Mr. McCrelles, of Belfast, Maine, volunteered to go, accompanied by four of the sailors.  The next day after our arrival there, they embarked on their voyage to obtain the relief we so much needed.  Their directions were, to keep close in shore; and, with God's blessing, they would arrive at Payta, and assistance would reach us at the expiration of a week.  We watched the little boat until she looked like a speck upon the water; and, with many an unuttered prayer for her safe arrival, we turned our thoughts landward, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>There was the skeleton of a whale perfect, and entirely exposed.  How long the remains of this huge aquatic monster had been bleaching under the scorching rays of that tropical sun, we had no means of ascertaining.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The Indians faithfully kept their promise, and each succeeding day they visited us with a plentiful supply of water and potatoes; the bill of fare varied occasionally by the introduction of some very offensive fowl, which they positively asserted were "esta bueno." An amusement in which I often indulged was to chase innumerable crabs, with which the beach was literally covered in the mornings.  They would, upon the first intimation of pursuit, disappear instantly into their holes in the hard sand.  By remaining perfectly quiet for some time, they would again assemble in numbers, which the least movement on my part would again put to flight.  They would make greater progress running <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The pig remained secreted in his cavernous retreat, which no entreaties on our part could induce him to vacate.  Not until driven to the last extremity by the pangs of hunger, did he venture to reconnoitre from the aperture.  After viewing his companions in distress for a little time, he gained sufficient courage to eat potatoes from my hand.  After that, he became quite domesticated, and, with the hen, used to share the sailors' tent with them at nights.</P>
065.sgm:<P>During this time, I was unconsciously assuming the dark and swarthy hue of the native women, from being constantly exposed to the scorching glare of a tropical sun.  My habiliments, too, were becoming exceedingly soiled, from constant use both by night and day.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The love and spirit of adventure had, from earliest infancy, been strongly implanted in my nature; and, during this voyage, certainly, this predilection for thrilling adventure had been amply gratified.  Yet, had not the fiery ordeal through which it had pleased the God of love to bring me been for good, it would have been averted.</P>
065.sgm:<P>A week had now elapsed since the departure of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>We repaired to our tent with our minds illy reconciled to passing another night victims to the insatiable fleas, whose cry still was, Blood, blood.  All at once we heard the clanking of chains letting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>As you enter the harbor of Payta from sea, the town presents a most uninviting appearance.  It is built at the base of sand hills.  The houses have the appearance of mud huts; the roofs covered with tile.  Upon a nearer approach, not a green <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>A wide and pleasant balcony surrounds the entire house at the second story.  Large windows, and still larger doors, open upon this balcony, and render it an airy and delightful residence.  From this balcony you have a fine view of the harbor, dotted with ships of almost every nation.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>I often availed myself of the use of Mr. Ruden's library.  In this room was suspended a hempen hammock, in which I enjoyed many a delightful siesta.  The bedsteads were all of polished brass, and very beautifully curtained with bright-colored satin.  Some of them cost as high as one thousand dollars.  The pillow-slips and counterpanes were solid embroidery, executed by the delicate hands of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:lovely Spanish sen&tilde;oritas.  They were placed on the beds over a lining of pink or blue cambric, thereby displaying to great advantage the fine needle-work.  Even the toilet-towels were embroidered at each end a quarter of a yard in depth, and then fringed.  We breakfasted at ten o'clock, and dined at five, P.M.  At nine, P.M., a servant would bring us a most excellent cup of tea, which we generally enjoyed seated upon the balcony.  Through the day we were regaled with all the delicious fruits indigenous to a tropical clime, among which were several kinds I had never before tasted--the palta and cherrymoyer.  The first-named is shaped something like cucumber, and is eaten with pepper and salt.  The flavor of the cherrymoyer is perfectly delicious.  This fruit is about the size of the largest kind of Baldwin apple, and very pulpous.  The fruit, together with the water, and all the vegetables consumed in Payta, and all with which the shipping is supplied, is transported across a desert of sixteen miles in width, upon mules' backs, from a town called Piura--a perfect garden of Eden, through which flows a pellucid river.  When the ladies of Payta visit Piura to refresh themselves with a sight of the beautiful in nature, they are transported in a palanquin, which is rested upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>There was a church near to Mr. Ruden's house, which I often frequented--at the matin hour, and again at vespers--to get a view of the lovely brunettes, who, with heads uncovered, were kneeling in every direction, upon soft mats brought every day by a servant, following in close proximity to the sen&tilde;ora or sen&tilde;orita.  I admire their style of beauty.  The clear olive complexion; the soul and sympathy which beam from their dark, lustrous eyes; their long, black, glossy hair; their natural ease, grace, and warmth of manner; the lip so full of sentiment and love, that, if the eyes were closed, the face would retain its exquisite expression; their vivacity of manner in conversation-- <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
065.sgm:<P>The walls of the churches are hung with coarse paintings, and engravings of the saints, etc., etc.  The chancel is decorated with numerous images and symbolic ornaments used by the priests in their worship.  Gold paper and tinsel in barbaric taste are plastered without stint upon nearly every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>While at Payta, the United States sloop-of-war Vincennes, Commander Hudson, arrived in port.  The officers frequently dined with Mr. Ruden.  By invitation of Captain Hudson, we all dined on board the Vincennes.  We were welcomed alongside by a salute of twenty-one guns--a compliment usually conferred upon a consul when he visits ships of the line.  We spent the afternoon most agreeably; and the refined hospitality, courteous manners, intelligent and interesting conversation of our host, made us regret the rapidly fleeing moments.  It was a beautiful moonlight eve when we left the Vincennes in the captain's barge, rowed by those men-of-war sailors, dressed with such uniform neatness.  Not a ripple disturbed the placid and glossy surface of the water.  At night so pure is the atmosphere, that the moon gives a light <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:sufficiently powerful for the purposes of the reader or student who has good eyesight.  There is no necessity of burning the "midnight oil;" nature here lights the lamp for the bookworm.  So phosphorescent is the water, that every dip of the oars is followed by a stream of light resembling fire.  When we were at Payta, we were informed that no rain had fallen during the preceding seven years.  We met there a friend from whom we had parted on the broad Pacific, never expecting to meet again--Captain McKenzie.  Yes! the pleasant Scotch captain we left on board the Symmetry.  Captain Thompson had faithfully fulfilled the stipulation to leave them near the port of Valparaiso.  From thence he had taken passage in an English steamer bound to Panama, and from there he would cross the isthmus, proceed to New York, and from there to England.  The steamer touched at Payta to remain an hour, and Captain McKenzie stepped on shore to have a view of the town.  Nearly the first persons he saw were Captain Lunt and my husband.  When he parted from us last, we were bound to San Francisco.  Judge, then, of his astonishment at meeting them there.  He knew at once some unforeseen calamity had driven them from their course.  From previous events his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The bark Carbargo, Captain Barstow, was loading at Payta for Panama.  The captain was a native of Pembroke, Mass., and, being acquainted with our friends at home, felt quite an interest in our welfare.  He very kindly offered to give us a passage to Panama.  Upon his assuring me he had not a cargo of coal, but mules, sheep, and fowl instead, I felt I might safely trust myself once more on board another vessel.  It was a lovely day we bade good-bye to Mr. Ruden and other friends, with whom we had passed many pleasant hours during a four weeks' sojourn at Payta.  I had changed somewhat in my personal appearance since first I beheld those everlasting sand-hills.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Here we are again on ship-board; and I have no better business, all these long summer days, than to watch those thirty large mules, ranged along the deck, fifteen on a side, their heads facing the vessel's rail, with just a path between the rows.  They were the finest-looking mules I ever saw.  The South American mule is larger, as a general thing, than the Mexican mule.  The captain anticipated realizing a handsome sum for them.  They were in excellent order, and were blessed with such nice long tails, which is considered quite an acquisition.  One morning early, I heard such a loud talking on deck, and in no very pleasant tones either, I conjectured something awful had happened.  I soon ascertained the cause of the clamor.  One of the mules had broken his fastening in the night, and, not being discovered, had the extreme audacity to deprive nearly all his brother mules of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>UPON arriving in the harbor of Panama, we came to an anchor about two miles from the city.  Ships scarcely ever go nearer on account of rocks.  It is not a very good harbor for vessels to lie in with safety, it is so open.  At anchor close by us was the ship Marianna, of San Francisco, Captain Rossiter.  He recognized my husband as an old acquaintance, invited us on board his ship, where he was enjoying the society of his wife and an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:interesting little child.  Captain Rossiter informed us he was going to take his ship down to Taboga, an island which lies about ten miles from Panama.  The P.M.S.S. Co. have a depot there.  All the steamers, when in port, lie there.  The shipping frequent this place to get a supply of water, which gushes in clear rivulets down the sides of the mountains.  A little steamer plies constantly between Taboga and Panama for the accommodation of passengers, who are constantly flocking from the miasma-infected city of Panama, to inhale the health-breathing zephyrs of this island retreat. The shore is very bold.  Ships of the largest tonnage lie within a stone's throw of the shore.  Nearly all the washing is carried from the city, and here cleansed in the running streams by the native women, and spread upon the bushes to dry.  At this time there were three hotels there, and quite a number of native populace.  Since the time I allude to, they have been visited by a destructive fire.  It has been rebuilt, however.  We spent one happy week here.  Daily Mrs. Rossiter and myself wandered up and down the mountain's side, protected from the sun's rays by the umbrageous foliage which formed a complete net-work above our heads.  Here grew the cocoa-nut and pine-apple.  The monkeys <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:chattered and swung from branch to branch above our heads.  The parrot and paroquet screamed at us from their leafy habitations.  Birds of beautiful plumage were carolling their sweetest notes, giving to these sylvan mountain-slopes a truly vivifying appearance.  Here, thought I, in company with loved ones, could I dream away a happy existence.  The impersonations of romance and solitude could scarcely find a more congenial abode than this beautiful and sequestered isle.  At the expiration of this memory-treasured week, which was, indeed, an oasis in the waste over which I had been wafted, we returned to an anchor at Panama.  That night I was suddenly and severely attacked with what was conceded to be, by all, Panama fever of the most malignant kind.  The next day I was carried on shore, through the city, to a house outside the city gates, owned by a gentleman from New Orleans. For the use of one furnished room and board, the sum of forty dollars per week was required.  It was a large, barn-like dwelling.  Nearly all the rooms were rented to Spaniards.  The partitions which divided the house into apartments only extended to a height sufficient to conceal the occupants from one another, without in the least obviating the noise and disturbance naturally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:occurring from so many living under one roof.  Even this tenement, rough as it was, far exceeded, in point of cleanliness and healthy location, the crowded, and at that time filthy, hotels of the city.  Ours was a corner room in the second story, fronting the street.  Large doors, very much resembling barn-doors, opened from two sides of the room upon a balcony, that indispensable appendage to all the dwellings situated in tropical climes.  Every breath of air which fanned my burning brow seemed wafted from a heated furnace.  For days I lay a victim to that consuming fever, part of the time in blissful unconsciousness.  I say blissful, because my thoughts wandered to my distant home, and I was relieved, for the time being, from the agonizing thoughts that in intervals of reason obtruded themselves upon me.  I was attended by no physician.  Captain Rossiter administered dose after dose of calomel, until my system was completely prostrated.  Well was it for me that my knowledge of the Spanish language was so limited; otherwise I might have been shocked by the language of some of the inmates of the house.  Every footfall, every loud word, echoed and reverberated through that hollow building, sending, at each recurrence, a pang of agony through my burning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>When raised by pillows in my bed, I had a view of the street leading to the rear gates of the city, and day after day could I see the silent dead borne to their last resting-place.  At that time, Panama was crowded with Americans waiting to be conveyed to the gold-studded placers of California.  Alas! many of the number never reached the goal they so ardently desired, and for which they had sacrificed their own happiness, and that of those dearer to them than aught else except gold, the yellow dust of temptation.  Truly it may be said to be "the root of all evil," when it allures thousands from their peaceful homes, to meet an untimely death.  Reflections such as these had a decided tendency to depress still more my already despondent heart.  My recovery, at times, was considered doubtful.  It was too sickly to entertain the idea of remaining there longer than was absolutely necessary.  I was too weak to attempt to cross the Isthmus; therefore, all hope of returning home was abandoned.</P>
065.sgm:<P>It was decided to take passage at once for San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:Francisco. We remained one month at Panama.  During the last two or three days of our stay, I walked a short distance each day.  One of our walks we extended as far as the burying-ground.  What a shunned and desolate spot was that American burial-ground at Panama,--a mere necessary receptacle of lifeless flesh and crumbling bones,-- not even a stone raised to mark the last resting-place of the many loved friends who had breathed their last sigh in a strange land, and by strangers been consigned to mother earth!  A little piece of board was sometimes reared, with the name, age, and place of residence, marked thereon; but often this little mark of respect and affection had been displaced by mules, numbers of which are constantly grazing among the graves.  No inclosure protects these often nameless mounds; straggling bushes struggle with rank and choking weeds that overtop them.  The whole place bears a deserted, forsaken aspect--untrodden by the feet of memory and love.  It is within sight of the bay, whose waters, as they eternally dash against the shore, seem to be chanting a requiem for the departed.  The evening before we left Panama, our attention was attracted by what we conceived to be a torch-light procession, issuing from the city gate.  Upon a nearer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:approach, it proved to be a funeral cortege.  First came several horsemen bearing torches; these were followed by a band of music, playing very lively, heart-stirring strains; then came an open bier, carried by natives, upon which was borne the lifeless remains of a sweet little cherub, a lovely Spanish child--lovely even in death.  It seemed to be in a sitting posture.  In each hand was placed a wax candle; wreaths of flowers entwined its angelic brow, and were strewn in rich profusion upon the bier.  Innumerable wax tapers were inserted around the outer edge of the bier, which shed an ethereal halo upon the little form of clay, which had so recently been the pride and joy of fond parents.  Then followed another company of equestrians and pedestrians.  It had the appearance of some joyous festive scene rather than a funeral procession. And, truly,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Why should we mourn for the child early called<LB>From the sin and the suffering of this darkened world?<LB>Though ties of affection may early be riven,<LB>Why wish back on earth the dear loved one in heaven?"</HI>
065.sgm:<P>Oh, how I suffered, while at Panama, for a draught of cold water, to allay that feverish, burning thirst which seemed to be consuming the very life-blood in my veins!  By the time they could get the clear, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:cool water from the gurgling rivulets of Taboga to Panama, it would be tepid, and I would turn fromit in disgust.  Often, in my hours of delirium, would I fancy myself at home, travelling again the little school path.  I would arrive at the running brook which wandered through green meadows, and was spanned by a rustic bridge, over which, for twelve happy years, our little feet had skipped each day, on the way to and from school.  Then I would fancy myself leaning far over the grassy brink-- so far, I could touch my lips to the transparent surface, and imbibe draught after draught of the sparkling liquid.  Pleasing hallucination! too quickly dispelled by returning reason.  In my lucid moments, I was ever thinking of the old well at home, and wishing for <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
065.sgm:<P>We took passage in the steamer Republic for San Francisco.  The price of our tickets at that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>I saw nothing of the city of Panama except what met the eye in passing through its narrow streets,--more properly, lanes,--bounded on either side by high, prison-looking buildings, with iron bars in lieu of window-sashes.  Plenty of naked natives, all eager to carry us on board in their bungoes (boats),--a noisy, wrangling set they were,--assembled there upon the beach.  Immediately upon reaching the steamer, I repaired to my state-room, and, in an exhausted state, was assisted into my berth.  I remained in this situation through all the hurry and bustle incident to the departure of an ocean steamer, but then was fated to be disturbed in a manner I little dreamed of.  A lady came to the state-room, and very unceremoniously demanded my berth, saying her ticket, which she had purchased in New York, called for it.  Here was a dilemma!  The ticket calling for that berth had been sold twice.  Captain Hudson was called to the rescue.  He decided I should not be removed.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Upon getting out to sea, my recovery was visibly accelerated by the invigorating sea-breezes and cheerful companionship of our fellow-voyagers.  I made many pleasant acquaintances, and formed friendships which have endured to the present,--not the fashionable friendship of an hour, which dishonor the name, but attachments that have stood the test of adversity and misfortunes.  The steamer Republic had on board four hundred passengers.  Thirty out of this number were ladies,--the largest number which, at that time, had been taken on board any one steamer to San Francisco.  There were but very few of them accompanied by their husbands; the remainder were going to meet their liege lords, from whom they had been separated, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The steamer put into Acapulco to coal up.  The harbor reminded me somewhat of Port Stanley, although it is not quite so completely land-locked.  The natives swam off to the ship in numbers; while the passengers amused themselves by throwing over pieces of money, which, as it was sinking, they dove after, and obtained with surprising dexterity.  They appeared again upon the surface, in an incredibly short space of time, with their dark countenances illumined by a grin, illustrative of much delight, holding high the hand, and displaying the rescued coin.  Then they would deposit it quickly in their mouths, and be in readiness for another dive.  The most successful one was easily detected by his protuberant cheeks.  To deceive, one of the passengers threw over a button.  Upon discovering the deception practised, no enticement could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Not having recovered my health sufficiently to endure a tiresome tramp, I only saw that part of the town in immediate proximity to the harbor.  I was very favorably impressed, however.  It was the cleanest, neatest, most cheerful-looking Spanish town I had ever beheld.  Shops of every description met the eye, almost bewildering the senses with the multifarious display.  The cafe&acute;s at every corner sent out a cheering welcome to the olfactory organ; the bazaar was thronged with people displaying fruit in all its stages, sufficient, if partaken of, to prostrate the whole ship's company; and the incomprehensible jargon of the venders reminding one of (as some express it) "bedlam let loose."  Sometimes one feels half inclined to purchase, if for nought else than to win one of those irresistible smiles from the sen&tilde;orita in attendance.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Upon entering the harbor, the first thing that met my eye was the ship Symmetry, which came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Soon we were again steaming our way along the coast to San Francisco.  One night, we were all startled from our slumbers by the quick ring of the fire-bell, and the wild shout of "Fire!  fire!"  ringing loud and clear from the deck.  Oh, what a rushing and screaming with the ladies!  what terrified looks, as they crowded and pushed one another up the stairs, in mad haste to gain the deck!  It was a scene of terrible confusion; in the midst of which I stopped to put on shoes and stockings.  I say not this to boast of more self-possession or calmness in moments of peril than naturally belongs to the sex; but, having been so often subjected to the fiery ordeal during that eventful year, I had learned to expect it as a matter of course, and was not so startled or unprepared by the recurrence of such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:an event as those more favored, who had recently left pleasant homes, and had encountered nought but sunshine.  It appeared one of the waiters had gone to the engineer's room (which was upon deck) to draw alcohol from a cask.  It ignited by a spark from the lamp; the cask exploded, and set fire to the room.  The boy rushed out in terror, rang the bell, and cried "Fire!"  at the top of his voice.  One of the engineers, who was in bed at the time, was severely burned.  The greatest confusion prevailed for awhile, after the passengers gained the deck <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
065.sgm:<P>It was pronounced at once by all the ladies, that I must be the "Jonah;" and really I began to think there might be some truth in the assertion.</P>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>THE last of April, 1851, after an eventful and tedious voyage, we approached the entrance to the harbor of San Francisco, appropriately denominated the "Golden Gate."  The entrance is about a mile and a half in breadth.  The waters of the bay appear to have opened for themselves a passage through the elevated ridge of hills next to the shore of the Pacific, which rise abruptly on either side of the opening.  There is always depth of water sufficient to admit ships of the largest size; and so completely land-locked and protected from the winds is the harbor, that vessels can ride at anchor in perfect safety, in all kinds of weather.  The harbor is sufficient to accommodate all the navies in the world.  As the emigrant approaches California from the ocean, Monte Diabolo is the first land by which the eye is greeted.  It is situated in Contra Costa county, sixty or seventy miles distant from Sacramento, in a south-westerly direction.  According to the best information obtained, the altitude of this mountain is about five thousand feet above the level of the sea.  It stands at the north-western termination of the inner coast range, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Yerba Buena (sweet herb) is an island in the bay, and almost directly fronting the city of San Francisco, a mile or so distant.  There are several small islands in the bay.  Opposite San Francisco, on the north side of the bay, is a place called Sausolito, where, at an early period in the history of San Francisco, vessels repaired, preparatory to sailing, to take in their water.  Now, water-boats are plying between Sausolito and the city, affording ample remuneration for the toil.  On the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>At a distance of a mile and a half from the entrance to the bay, are the remains of an old fort.  It is fast going to decay, daily threatening a complete ruin.  The guns are dismounted, and some of them are half decomposed from exposure to the weather.  When I passed through the Golden Gate for the last time, there was in process of erection a fortification on one of the bluffs commanding the entrance.  Outside, lay the wreck of the clipper-ship Golden Fleece; the ceaseless motion of the waves chanting a requiem over her remains.</P>
065.sgm:<P>At San Francisco, during the summer and autumnal months, the wind blows directly from the ocean, rendering the temperature cool enough in the afternoon for woollen clothing, in midsummer.  The mornings are usually calm and pleasantly warm.  About sunset, the wind dies away, and the nights are comparatively calm.  In winter months, the wind blows in soft, balmy breezes from the southeast; the thermometer rarely sinking below 50 deg.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Such a hurry, such a bustle, so much excitement!  We are nearing the wharf at San Francisco.  What crowds of men assembled upon the pier, ready to rush on board as soon as the steamer is made fast!  I almost envied those who were going to meet loved friends.  We knew none, to give us a cheerful greeting, in that city of strangers.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Mrs. B--, a lady who was accompanied by her husband, and myself seated ourselves upon deck, to witness the meetings.  So many joyful tears were shed, such heartful embraces!  Fathers caressing little ones they had never before seen; they in turn frightened half out of their wits at finding themselves in the arms of such frightful objects.  Sometimes we could scarcely repress the tears at witnessing some affecting scene; at others, constrained to laugh outright at some really ludicrous sight.  One delighted husband said, "Why <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>My husband and myself, by invitation of the captain, concluded to remain on board that night.  He insisted upon our occupying his room in his absence, as business called him ashore.  "Everything," said he, "is at your disposal, except my tooth-brush."</P>
065.sgm:<P>Next morning, upon going ashore, my husband met a cousin of ours, who was residing in Happy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>How unique to me seemed everything in San Francisco, when first I paced its sandy streets leading to Happy Valley!  They were building up the water-lots rapidly.  The old ship Niantic, of Boston, seemed quite up town.  Upon the deck of this condemned ship was reared quite an imposing edifice, bearing the signature of the Niantic Hotel.  Streets were extended far beyond it, bayward.  The interstices between some of these streets were not yet filled.  I grow dizzy even now, thinking about it.  In our haste to reach Happy Valley, and avoid, as far as lay in our power, those interminable sand-hills, it was proposed to cross one of those interstices on a hewn timber, which, at least, must have been nearly one hundred feet, and at a height of twelve feet, I should think, from the green slimy mud of the dock.  I succeeded pretty well, until about halfway over, when, finding myself suddenly becoming very dizzy, I was obliged to stop, get down on my knees, and hold on to the timber.  I was afraid to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Upon leaving, three years afterwards, I traversed that same locality.  It had become the richest business part of the city.  There were nicely paved walks, bounded on either side by massive granite and brick structures, an ornament to the city--the pride and the glory of the energetic pioneers, representatives from every state in the Union.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Very soon after our arrival occurred the largest conflagration ever recorded in the annals of San Francisco.  The memorable fire of the 3d of May, 1851, will ever be remembered by all residents of the place at that time with feelings of pain and commiseration.  Oh! it was a night of intense suffering to hundreds of human beings.  We were startled from our slumbers between the hours of eleven and twelve, by the to me familiar cry of "Fire!"  My first thought, upon awakening, was, "I am on terra firma, I can run."  Fires, at that time of paper-and-cloth-architectural memory, raged with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The streets were full of drays, rushing along with breakneck speed, to deposit goods and all kinds of merchandise in any possible place of safety.  What rich bales of silk, and fine clothing, were tumbled topsy-turvy into hastily made excavations in the innumerable sand-hills around the valley.  Some were depositing valuables in the few (what were then supposed to be) fire-proof buildings, which had been erected at considerable expense.  Often buildings were on fire before the inmates, in their consternation, could find an article of clothing; and they would rush into the crowded street in their night-clothes, nearly distracted with the deafening shouts of the excited multitude.  The wind seemed to blow fiercely.  The insatiable flames came roaring and rushing onward, darting its thousand-forked tongues of fire far up into the midnight sky.  The fire companies, what few there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:were, were prompt and energetic in action; but even <HI REND="italics">they</HI>
065.sgm:<P>In one instance, a company, with their engine, were driven to the verge of a wharf by the fiery pursuer.  Mrs. B-- and myself were standing upon the door-step, witnessing with trembling hearts its nearer approach and nearer.  It was heart-rending to witness the distress of delicate women, driven from their homes at midnight, with no protection from the chilly winds but their night-clothes, lamenting, not their own fate, but the uncertain fate of those near and dear to them, who were combatting with the fiery elements for the preservation of life and property.  Oh, it was a sad spectacle!  Yet, even amid it all, might be seen some heartless person divesting himself of his own soiled apparel, to be replaced with new, purloined from some pile of ready-made clothing.  How much of value, that night, the dishonest ones appropriated to their own use!</P>
065.sgm:<P>Still nearer came the flames, until only one block of buildings separated them from the Oriental Hotel.  That once on fire, and no human power could save Happy Valley.  All the engines were brought to play upon this block, which was owned by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:Macondry, and by him occupied as a warehouse.  The bravely-fought struggle was viewed with varying emotions of hope and fear.  At length the never-ceasing powers of man conquered.  They succeeded in arresting the progress of the fire king, and the little hamlet of Happy Valley was preserved.  At early dawn, we visited the scene of the fire.  It would require a more graphic description than could ever emanate from pen of mine to do justice to the scene of destruction there presented.  Lifeless bodies, literally burned to a cinder, wholly unrecognizable by nearest relatives, lay near to the walls of the half-demolished brick structure.  They had fled to this building as a place of safety, thinking it to be, what all considered it, fire-proof.  The flames raged around it with unresisting fury: the heat became very intense.  The occupants vainly endeavored to effect an egress.  One poor fellow rushed to remove the heated bolts, and actually burned all the flesh from his hands before effecting his object.  Then he was seen to rush frantically forth into the flames, stagger, turn, and run a little way in an opposite direction--then fall.  He was dragged from the flames by some daring, humane hand, and his life preserved; although he was maimed and crippled, and rendered blind, for life.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:I saw the poor being afterwards, and heard him relate the painful story.  The scenes I witnessed that day might wring tears from a heart of stone.  Men who, a few short hours before, were worth thousands and hundreds of thousands, now sat weeping over the ashes of their once splendid fortunes.  Some who were not possessed of sufficient self-command and fortitude to meet and brave life's severest trials, had sought consolation for every woe in the intoxicating cup; others sat, the images of mute despair, their grief too profound to permit a tear or sigh to escape as a mitigation of their deep-seated sorrow; some had already commenced fencing in their lots, although the smouldering ashes emitted an almost suffocating heat.  These hasty proceedings were at that time expedient, to prevent their lots from being jumped; for these were the days of squatter memory, when possession was nine-tenths of the law.  We were in pursuit of Mr. and Mrs. B--.  With her I had formed a close intimacy on board the steamer.  Her husband, previous to the fire, was established in a lucrative business, but who had now shared the fate of all.  Where was Mrs. B-- and her little daughter Nelly?  They were obliged to run in their nightclothes.  Mr. B-- deposited two or three trunks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:of their most valuable clothing in one of those fire-proof buildings, and, of course, they were burnt, leaving them nothing which they could call their own out of their once abundant supply.  Mrs. B-- that night sought and found protection at an hospital kept by a friend of hers, a doctor from New York.  The building was situated upon the summit of one of the many hills which surround the city, and about a mile from where she had lived.  This distance she ran, without even shoes or stockings, almost dragging her little girl along, who was so terrified as to be almost incapable of supporting herself.  After learning her whereabouts, I hastened to see her, and found her, where she was obliged to remain for the time being, in bed.  I supplied her with a few articles of clothing from my limited wardrobe; but she being a much taller person than myself, we were really at a loss how to make her appear respectable, unless she would consent to make her debut in Bloomer costume.  "Necessity is indeed the mother of invention;" and, after some crying, and a good deal more laughing, we had her equipped for a promenade.  Then Nelly was released from "durance vile;" but it would have puzzled wiser heads than ours to have designated her costume.  Poor child! how she lamented the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The owner of this domicile had gone to the States; the agent for which was also absent in the mines.  Therefore, our husbands had the audacity to take quiet possession; and, before night, we were duly installed in our new house.  Perhaps some of my readers may have the curiosity to know how we so readily furnished our intended boarding-house, while nearly the entire city was in ruins.  Well, in the house we found two bedsteads, with a miserable straw bed upon each; quite a good cooking-stove, with a few appurtenances attached; a pine table, constructed of unplaned boards; and old boxes, in lieu of chairs.  Dishes, knives and forks, and spoons, we had picked up from the heterogeneous mass of half-consumed rubbish upon the former site of Mr. B--'s store.  But, at such a time as that, if one could get anything to eat, he never stopped to see if his fork was blessed with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>We were to receive twelve dollars per week for board.  Don't laugh: that was cheap board, when you take into consideration the exorbitant price of provisions.  For butter we paid one dollar and a half per pound; beef steak, twenty-five cents per pound; and all else in proportion.  Vegetables were sold by the pound, and dearly sold, too.  I never prepared a meal, but what I thought of the old woman who had but one kettle in which to cook everything.  We made coffee in the tea-kettle mornings; and, at night, made tea in the same.</P>
065.sgm:<P>There was a well of water at some distance from the house, near the foot of the hill; and, oh, what a deep one it was!  The bucket, which would contain two pailfuls, had to be drawn to the top by a windlass.  The united exertions of Mrs. B-- and myself were scarcely sufficient to bring it to the top.  Oh, how we have laughed, and tugged, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>ABOUT seven weeks from the time of our arrival in San Francisco, we found ourselves on board one of the river steamers bound to Marysville.  I parted with regret from Mrs. B--.  We had lived, and laughed, and suffered together <HI REND="italics">so</HI>
065.sgm:<P>The upper division of the bay of San Francisco is called the Suisun.  Situated upon the strait connecting the two divisions, is the town of Benicia, on the north, and the pleasant little hamlet of Martinez, on the south side.  How sunny and pleasant looked the valleys bordering on the bay! the luxuriant growth of wild oats therein affording excellent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>In some places the river is nearly half a mile in width.  It makes some very graceful bends.  The land bordering on this magnificent stream is very low, and subject to inundations, which is a serious impediment to the advancement of agriculture, to which the soil is admirably adapted.  Three years afterwards, when sailing down this majestic stream, I witnessed with delight many spots of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>With the name of Feather River the early Anglo-Californian associates the commingled sentiments of many a pleasure and pain.  The rich tributes of gold which rewarded his toil could not compensate for the saddened yearnings of the heart.  All that he loved on earther were far away from him; his condition was hazardous in the extreme; no friend, perhaps, was near with a solace; and, but for the inspiriting unction of a constantly indulged hope, even the <HI REND="italics">future</HI>
065.sgm:<P>The steamer turns her prow to the right, and is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:gracefully cutting her way through the waters of Feather River.  I kept constantly upon deck to inhale the balmy air, and to look out upon the lovely and ever-changing landscape.  Sometimes the trees would crowd the bank to the very brink; some gracefully bending to kiss the water; some rearing their stately heads high above, but stretching their wide arms over its margin; all faithfully mirrored far down in its glassy depth, though sometimes the reflections were partially obliterated, and sometimes, for a moment, the <HI REND="italics">whole</HI>
065.sgm:<P>There were on board several distinguished persons, who proposed a visit to Capt. Sutter's ranch.  This delightful residence is situated on the left bank of Feather River, as you are proceeding up stream.  Visitors of distinction are landed at the foot of his garden.  The steamer runs in close proximity to the bank fronting his dwelling.  They usually give him a salute after landing visitors.  Sometimes an answering salute is given from a mounted cannon standing in the centre of his garden.  Near to it is erected a tall flag-staff. The dwelling-house is constructed of adobe brick, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>He emigrated to the United States, and was naturalized.  From thence, after a series of romantic incidents, he located himself in California, in the midst of numerous and hostile tribes of Indians.  With a small party of men, which he originally brought with him, he succeeded in defending himself until he erected his fort.  Several times, when besieged by hostile foes, he has subsisted upon grass alone for many days.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The land bordering upon Feather River is more elevated than that bordering upon the Sacramento.  Soon, far ahead, is discernible the dividing line in the water, where the muddy waters of the Yuba River mingle with the deep, blue, translucent current of Feather River.</P>
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065.sgm:<P>The banks of the Yuba, at its junction with Feather River, are romantic in the extreme.  There is a thick growth of trees bestudding the banks, and dipping gracefully into the stream; the branches of the taller uniting overhead, and forming a leafy canopy, almost entirely excluding the rays of the sun from the smoothly gliding current.  The beautiful weeping-willows fringing the margin, the creeping vines twining their tendrils around the trunks of the trees, and the variety of shrubbery, give it a decidedly tenebrious appearance, and keep the eye of the traveller, who gazes from the deck of some one of the numerous steamers plying the stream, constantly occupied in tracing the variety of features which this and similar views are constantly presenting.</P>
065.sgm:<P>A short distance above the cove-shaped entrance to the Yuba River, and at the head of steamboat navigation, is situated the town of Marysville.  At the time I first saw it, the sun was just gilding the tops of the little canvas stores surrounding the plaza.  This little square seemed literally swarming with people, who had gathered around the landing.  Some had resorted thither from motives of idle curiosity, to gaze at the people as they stepped ashore, hoping, perhaps, to recognize the form and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>I was perfectly delighted with the appearance of this little inland city.  Every little collection of canvas stores and dwellings in California were denominated cities.  Marysville, at that time, boasted of several large frame buildings, among which were the above-mentioned hotels.  It was ranked the third city in regard to size and improvements in Upper California.</P>
065.sgm:<P>It is useless to attempt to convey to the minds of any, except those who were pioneers to California, the unique appearance of those littlle bustling, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>On the night of our arrival, there was a travelling theatre to open for the first time in Marysville; and a mounted horseman was galloping <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:through the streets, announcing, at the top of his voice, the programme of the evening's performance.  After supper, being somewhat fatigued from the journey up river, I retired, but not to sleep.  Such a din and confusion as was kept up in the street!  A bowling alley and gambling house on the opposite side of the way each contributed their share to the babel-like confusion, that seemed to reign triumphant.  Our room was situated in the front part of the building, the only access to which was from the balcony; and the only way of admitting any air into the room was by leaving open the door, which served the double purpose of window and door.  Sometime in the night, we were aroused by some person moving about the room.  I was terribly frightened, thinking, of course, it was some robber or assassin.  My husband accosted the intruder with "Halloa! what do you want here?"  The reply was, "I am coming to bed! what business have <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
065.sgm: in my bed?  Come, vamos!" and, in the mean time, he was making preparations to strike a light.  Said my husband, "There is a lady here; <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
065.sgm: occupy this room.  Now leave instanter, or I will assist you."  He started to the door, muttering, "I will see the landlord about this; if there was not a lady here, I would see who the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>It seemed, upon inquiry, that our room had been previously occupied by two brothers.  Upon our arrival, the house being crowded, and one of the brothers absent for a few days, the landlord had proposed to the remaining one to resign his double bed for a single one, in order to accommodate us.  The absent brother returned late in the night, and the bar-keeper, through negligence or ignorance, omitted to inform him of the change; and thereby I was frightened half out of my wits at this midnight intrusion.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Ladies were very scarce in Marysville; at this time there were not more than half a dozen, at the most, who were deserving of the appellation.  Comparatively speaking, there were no children.  I had lived there more than a year before the merry voice of childhood gladdened my ears.  There were no churches, no school-houses.  All were intent upon the one great object that had lured them so far from their native land.  There were assembled representatives from every clime and country on the face of the globe.  The European, the Asiatic, the African, the Anglo-Saxon, the Sandwich-Islander, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:all, whose general interests and pursuits were so varied, had here convened for one and the same purpose--to get gold.  No law was acknowledged except Lynch law; and the penalty for offences, so summarily enforced by the vigilance committees, served admirably to keep in check the murderous, villanous propensities of too many of the refugees from justice from all parts of the world.  Alas! many of them had found a shelter in the almost inaccessible fastnesses of the mountains, remote from the regular settlements, and beyond the reach of organized vigilance committees.  In the solitary recesses of the Sierra Nevada were little clusters of men, with nothing but the trees, and perhaps a little canvas tent, for shelter, and <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
065.sgm:<P>Board at the United States Hotel at that time was four dollars per diem for the single person; therefore, with our limited means, we could remain here but a short time.  The Tremont Hotel had been recently erected, and I learned the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>While stopping at the Tremont, I witnessed what to me was a novel sight; and if, kind reader, you will pardon the digression, I will endeavor to relate, in a manner which I hope will interest, the method of taming a wild horse.  The first I saw was an unusual collection of people, and in their midst a horse blindfolded, with a Mexican vaquero in the act of mounting.  When once seated on the back of these wild, fleet animals of the plains, it is next to an impossibility to unhorse them.  From the nature of their pursuits and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:amusements, they have brought horsemanship to a degree of perfection challenging admiration, and exciting astonishment.  All things being in readiness, the blinder was removed.  The horse, for the first time in his life feeling the weight of man upon his back, with distended nostrils, eyes glaring like orbs of fire, and appearing to protrude from their sockets, gave a succession of fierce snorts, performed sundry evolutions which would have puzzled the master of a gymnasium to have imitated, and then dashed off at a furious rate, seemingly determined to free himself from his captor, or die in the attempt.  It was an exciting and cruel sport to witness.  The reeking sides of the poor beast were covered with foam and blood, which had been drawn by driving those merciless spurs into the flesh.  Both horse and rider would disappear for a few moments in some distant part of the town, then reappear again, dashing madly on.  Finally, the horse, in passing the Tremont Hotel, which was all thrown open in front to admit air, sprang, quick as a flash, upon the piazza, and dashed madly into the bar-room.  In making his ingress so suddenly, the Mexican's head had been forcibly struck against the top of the door, and he fell stunned to the floor.  The inmates of the bar-room, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:numbering about twenty, fled in every direction.  The bar-keeper, a very corpulent person, made his egress through a small back window-- <HI REND="italics">so</HI>
065.sgm: small, that, upon ordinary occasions, he would never have had the presumption to attempt it, as it was actually endangering his life by so suddenly thrusting his portly figure through so small an aperture; but now, out of two evils, he was constrained to choose the least.  The horse, finding himself in undisputed possession of the room, stood for an instant surveying himself in an extensive mirror suspended behind the long marble slab.  Then, prompted by an irresistible desire to become better acquainted with the image reflected in the glass, or possessing the principles of teetotalism to such an extent that he was bent upon immediate annihilation, he dashed furiously at the bar, upsetting it, and dashing the splendid mirror into a thousand pieces, demolishing the elegant cut-glass decanters, while the contents ran profusely upon the floor.  He also dashed to pieces several large arm-chairs, valued at twelve dollars apiece.  Then he passed through a side-door into a large saloon, traversed that without doing any material damage; and, when in the act of leaving the house, the Mexican, who had, in the meantime, recovered his senses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>THE Sierra Nevada Mountains and the coast range run nearly parallel with the shores of the Pacific.  The first are from one hundred to two hundred miles from the Pacific, and the last from fifty to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>North of the city of Marysville is a plain of several miles in extent.  This flat expanse is dotted with evergreen oaks, the shape and foliage of which, previous to minute examination, present an exact resemblance of the apple-tree.  When it was impossible to procure apples at any price, or even after they were as low as fifty cents apiece, when enjoying a walk upon the plains I would be constrained, in opposition to my knowledge to the contrary, to look under the trees, wishing I could only find <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
065.sgm:<P>In a westerly direction from Marysville are situated the Butte Mountains, which present a singular appearance.  They constitute one of the sublimest features of California scenery, rising as they do abruptly from the level plain which extends for miles around them.  There are three high elevations, which, seen from a distance, might be aptly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:compared to three mountain islands, rising from the surface of the ocean.  It is said that, standing on the top of the Butte Mountains in a clear day, with a telescope in hand, Monte Diabolo can be plainly seen: the space lying between is nearly three hundred miles.  Feather River forms the western boundary to the city limits.  The Yuba River opposite the plazza is wider than at any other place.  When bank-full, I should judge it to be nearly three hundred yards in width.  In the dry season, it is fordable for teams; and there is also a ferry across the river.  The most of the city at first was built around the plazza, which is less elevated than the plain which extends back.  Since then, owing to frequent inundations of the plazza, from which residents sustained material damage, they have removed most of the business houses to the upper part of the city.  Marysville, I think, following the course of the river, is about two hundred miles, and perhaps two hundred and fifty, from San Francisco.  The first rains there usually fall in November, and last until May.  As soon as the ground becomes moistened, the grass, and other hardy vegetation, springs up; and, by the middle of December, the landscape is arrayed in a robe of fresh verdure; the plains, which, during the dry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Deep gullies that intersect the country, and which during the dry summer appear as if they never saw a drop of water, now become the channels of rapidly rushing streams.  So much do they resemble rivers, that I heard one novice, who made his first appearance at this season, inquire, pointing to one of these sloughs, "Do they catch salmon in that river?"  Some of them are deep and miry.  Teamsters, who have attempted to ford them, have sometimes lost their lives in the attempt.  When these sloughs are very much swollen by heavy rains, all communication with the country back is cut off.  The season for sowing grain commences as soon as the ground is sufficiently moistened to permit of ploughing, and continues until March.  There were some fine ranches along the banks of the Yuba.  The bottom lands are very rich and productive, yielding an excellent harvest of wheat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>I must confess I never before saw it rain (I should say pour) so unceasingly for such a length of time,--a week, perhaps, every day and night, and sometimes longer; then the sun would shine out quite warm for a week; then rain again.  The mud in the streets was perfectly awful to behold, but much more awful to find yourself sinking into the miry depths.  The rain in the valley was snow in the mountains; and, forty miles from Marysville, the snow might be ten feet deep or more, while in the city it would be sufficiently warm to sit with the windows open.  When the dry season commences, then farewell to green grass, bright flowers, and everything pertaining to the beautiful, and prepare yourself to be suffocated with dust and sand, debilitated by the oppressive heat, and devoured by myriads of fleas.  All this, and much more, you must endure, if you remain in Marysville through the summer.  But, if not engaged in business, you can flee away to the mountains, and in some sequestered vale enjoy the lovely scenery, the cool spring water, inhale the invigorating mountain air, and, for exercise, climb to the summits of the mountains, timbered with large pines, firs, and cedars, with a smaller growth of magnolia, manzanita, hawthorn, etc., etc.  Notwithstanding the heat is so intense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>It seemed so strange to me, after one of those hot days, not to see any appearance of a shower, not the slightest film of vapor in all the vast azure vault.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Some of the smaller houses were constructed of zinc.  A lady who occupied one positively averred that the sides of the house were so hot, that she had only to place her dough, when she was going to bake bread, in close proximity to the wall, where the heat was sufficient to cook it.  These zinc shanties were all abandoned before the summer was half spent.  They were positively more like ovens than dwellings.</P>
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065.sgm:<P>There is but little disease in the country arising from the climate.  On some of the rivers, where vegetation is rank, and decays in autumn, the malaria produces chills and fever, which sometimes, when neglected too long, proves fatal.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The soil and climate of California is peculiarly adapted to the culture of the grape.  The delicious richness and flavor of the California grapes nothing of the fruit kind can equal.  The cactus grows spontaneously in California, and some of the inclosures are hedged in by this plant, which grows to an enormous size, and makes an impervious barrier against man and beast.  The stalks of some of the plants are of the thickness of a man's body, and grow to the height of fifteen feet.  One of the most serviceable of the California plants is the soap-plant.  The root, which is the saponaceous portion of the plant, resembles the onion, and possesses the quality of cleansing linen equal to any soap.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The wild animals of California are the wild horse, elk, black-tailed deer, antelope, grisly bear, beaver, otter, cayote, hare squirrel, and a variety of other small animals.  The interior lakes and rivers swarm with myriads of wild geese, ducks, and other birds; the pheasant and partridge are numerous in the mountains.</P>
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065.sgm:<P>For salubrity I do not think there is any climate in the world superior to that of California.  I have known people in the country who have been exposed much of the time to great hardships and privations, sleeping most of the time in the open air, and never suffering the first pangs of disease, or the slightest indications of ill-health.  California is rich in mineral productions of all kinds.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Wheat, barley, and other grains, can be produced in the valleys without irrigation.  Oats grow spontaneously, and with such rankness as to be considered a nuisance upon the soil.  I have seen acres of these growing so high as to almost hide the cattle feeding among them.  The oats grow to the summits of the hills, but not so tall as in the valleys.  All the variety of grasses which cover the country are heavily seeded, and, when ripe, are as fattening to the stock as the grains with which we feed our stock in this country.  Nearly all the fruits of temperate and tropical climates can be produced in perfection in California.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The Californians do not differ materially from the Mexicans, from whom they are descended.  The native Californian is almost constantly on horseback, and, as horsemen, excel any I have seen in other parts of the world.  The Californian saddle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:is the best that has ever been invented for the horse and rider.  It is scarcely possible to be unseated by any ordinary casualty.  The bridle-bit is clumsily made, but so constructed that the horse is compelled to obey the rider, upon the slightest intimation; the spurs are of immense size.  With his horse and trappings, serape and blankets, a piece of beef, and he is content, as far as personal comforts are concerned.  His amusements consist of the fandango, game of monte, horse-racing, and bear and bull-fighting; and a very exciting sport among them is the lassoing of wild cattle.  They are trained to the use of the lasso (riata, as it is here called) from their infancy.  A vaquero, mounted on a trained horse, and provided with a lasso, proceeds to the place where the herd is grazing.  Selecting an animal, he soon secures it by throwing the noose of the lasso over the horns, and fastening the other end around the pommel of the saddle.  During the first struggles of the animal for liberty, which usually are very violent, the vaquero sits firmly in his seat, and keeps his horse in such a position that the fury and strength of the beast are wasted, without producing any other result than his own exhaustion.  The animal, soon ascertaining that he cannot release himself from the rope, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The native Californian ladies lack the clear, olive complexion so much admired in the pure Castilian; but they are equally as animated in conversation, and their dark eyes flash with all the intelligence and passion characteristic of the Spanish woman.  There are few things more beautiful than their manner of salutation.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Among themselves, they never meet without embracing; but to men and strangers on the street they lift the right hand to near the lips, gently inclining the head toward it, and, gracefully fluttering their fingers, send forth their recognition with an arch beaming of the eye that is <HI REND="italics">almost</HI>
065.sgm: as bewitching as a kiss.  They dance with much ease and grace: the waltz appears to be a favorite with them.  Smoking is not prohibited in these assemblies, nor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>In Marysville were assembled women from all parts of the world; and I assure you it was an interesting study to watch the different natures, dispositions, tastes, pursuits, manners, and customs of these fair representatives of distant climes.  But among them all, the Yankee women stand preeminent, so far as regards principle, industry, and economy, and, as a general thing, are as often sought after for companions for life by the opposite sex as those who can claim pree&die;minence in mere personal attractions, and are destitute of the more sterling attributes, so essential to prosperity and happiness through the varied phases of real life.</P>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>I WILL now give you a sketch of our hotel-keeping in California.  My husband rented the Atlantic Hotel, which was not a very spacious one, for two hundred and twenty-five dollars per month.  For our cook we paid two hundred and fifty per month, our steward one hundred and twenty-five, and for all other assistance in a similar proportion.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The house was always filled to its utmost capacity; and the prospect of future success was flattering in the extreme, provided I had strength given me to sustain the weight of care and labor necessarily devolving upon me.  Often, on account of exorbitant demands from servants,--demands which could not reasonably be granted,--I would be compelled to work early and late, for days and weeks in succession.  Not having been accustomed to living and working in such excessive heat, my system became debilitated; I felt my strength gradually yielding to excessive weakness; and, in a little less than three months from the time we went to the Atlantic, I was seized with a fever.  For weeks I lay very sick.  My physician pronounced my recovery hopeless unless removed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The dimensions of the lot upon which this shanty was erected were one hundred and sixty by eighty feet.  It was represented to be an excellent location, destined to be soon in the heart of a big city.  My husband paid four hundred dollars for the place; and, as an evidence of the sudden and enormous rise of real estate in California, where there was the least prospect of a city rushing into existence,--for in that country cities have no state of infancy,--I will here add, that, three years afterwards, this same lot, with the addition of a better building, though not an expensive one, was valued at twelve thousand dollars, and could have been disposed of quickly for that sum.  During the two months that I was prostrated by sickness, my sufferings were intense, both physical and mental.  Doctors at that time were charging five and eight dollars a visit.  The state of the country was such, it was almost impossible to procure the comforts of life, unless one was possessed of a fortune.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:Eggs were seven dollars per dozen; milk, one dollar per quart; and, for six weeks, I was not allowed to eat any thing except boiled milk.  Our income had ceased when we sold out the hotel.  Every day my disorder was growing worse, and our funds were growing less.  The sides of our little shanty were constructed of rough clapboards, not very nicely matched; in some places, you could put your hand through the interstices.  The roof was canvas, and miserably old at that.  The front part of this domicile could boast of a few boards, which served as an apology for a floor.  Old boxes and trunks served in lieu of chairs.  When I was able to sit up, there was no chair to sit in.  My husband procured one at Sacramento,--quite an inferior cane-seated rocking-chair,--for which he paid the exorbitant sum of twelve dollars.  That was the first and only chair which ever graced our miserable abode.  My bed and even pillows were of straw; and oh, how hard they seemed to my poor and emaciated frame! for I was reduced to a mere skeleton.  At times, when the fever raged, how grateful I should have been for one drop of cold water.  All the water with which the city was supplied was taken from the Yuba River.  It was quite warm, and rendered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>In close proximity to our dwelling was a second-class boarding-house, from which, especially at night, issued discordant sounds of noisy revelry, mingled with angry bickerings.  All this was peculiarly trying to one whose nerves were wrought to the utmost tension.  When nights I would be left alone for hours together, I suffered inconceivably from fright.  When my husband would go out, he would lock the door upon the outside; for I was too feeble to rise from the bed without assistance, and far too timid to remain alone with the doors unfastened.  Every fresh burst of uproarious mirth or frightful anger issuing from the contiguous building would send a thrill of horror through my veins.  Oh, how my thoughts, during those lonely nights, would wander to my home!  How my heart yearned for the soothing words and kind attentions, so soul-cheering when emanating from the sympathetic bosoms of disinterested and tender friends!  All this was denied me.  I had formed no female acquaintances in this place.  There was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:no one to come and smooth my hard pillow, or utter cheering, consoling words.  The present was dark and dreary, with no bright star beaming through the murky horizon of the future.  One day I was no less pleased than surprised at the appearance of a lady in my room, whose benevolent, pleasant countenance plainly implied peace, hope, and happiness.  She introduced herself as Mrs. S--, recently from Cincinnati.  Her residence being near, she had accidentally heard of my situation, and had visited me for the express purpose of rendering any assistance in her power.  No kind mother could have been more attentive to the wants of a loved child, than was Mrs. S--to mine through the remainder of my sickness.  She had her own family to attend to; yet every day she found time to visit me, and minister kindly to my wants.  How anxiously I watched for her coming! and when I would hear her light footstep, and listen to the gentle accents of her sweet voice, I could only acknowledge her presence but by tears.  She was a messenger of peace and love, a truly pious and exemplary woman, and, during my residence in Marysville, ever remained my firmest friend.  She prospered in Marysville; and may kind Providence <HI REND="italics">ever</HI>
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065.sgm:<P>About this time the country was unusually agitated.  The villanies practised and murders committed by an organized band of cut-throats, of whom the notorious mountain robber, Joaquin, was the chief, had excited the horror, and aroused the vengeance, of the entire populace of Upper California.  No effort had been spared to capture him, dead or alive; but, with the perfect adroitness of an accomplished scamp, he ever eluded and bid defiance to pursuit by mounting some one of the many fleet steeds at his command, and fleeing to the almost inaccessible fastnesses of the mountains.  His path was ever stained with human blood.  A reward of one thousand dollars for the apprehension of Joaquin, offered by Governor Bigler, was still further increased by the sum of three thousand added to it by the Chinese.  These people are industrious, economical, and timid.  It was ever the policy of Joaquin and his associates to prey with particular severity upon the Chinese.  Frequent thefts were committed in their camps; and, when resistance was attempted, they were butchered with a heartless cruelty, becoming the sanguinary nature of the murderer and outlaw.  When suddenly surprised, he would boldly face his enemies, and receive their bullets on his breast, which glanced or were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>All Spanish countries have their guerillas and ladrones; but a feature of this kind, precipitated into American communities, and attended with such unparalleled atrocities, without the power of the people to avenge, was something astonishingly rare indeed.  California was not the place of his birth, and he could not, therefore, have had any national jealousies because of the occupancy of the country by the Americans.  He seemed to murder merely for the love of the sport, and to rob because it was a life of excitement, requiring great risk in its accomplishment, and yielding large profits when attended with good luck.  But his career of villany was limited; and, when he least expected it, he was seized upon to expiate his crimes by an ignominious death.  But I am anticipating.  One night, I was excessively alarmed by an unusual commotion about the town.  Ringing of bells, galloping of horses, groups of people rushing past, talking fiercely,--all conspired to confirm the belief in my mind, that the vigilance committee were about to execute summary punishment upon some guilty offender.  I awoke my husband: he dressed himself as quickly as possible, and issued forth to ascertain the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>A few days previous to this, the citizens of Marysville and vicinity had been horribly shocked by the announcement in their midst of a cruel murder, perpetrated on the road between Hansonville and Marysville.  A citizen of Marysville had carried a load of goods to Hansonville, and disposed of them for the sum of fifteen hundred dollars.  On his return, he was pursued and overtaken by some Mexicans, supposed to be of Joaquin's band, lariated and drawn from his wagon, and mangled in a horrible manner.  On the same day, a passenger wagon was intercepted, and every passenger murdered; even the horses' throats were cut.  And now this last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The particulars of the affair were these: That night, a little Mexican boy, who resided at the Sonorian Camp, prompted by feelings of revenge for a punishment that day received, came to the sheriff, and revealed Joaquin's place of concealment.  Buchanan, eager, doubtless, of achieving unparalleled renown by capturing this notorious robber chieftain, with a select few hastened to the spot designated by the boy.  In their march, they were compelled to step over a fallen tree lying immediately in their path.  They had no sooner planted their feet upon the trunk of the tree, when a dozen armed men sprang to confront them, and discharged their revolvers in their faces.  The consternation of the sheriff and his party was universal.  Those of the number who were not so disabled as to prevent escape, beat a hasty retreat.  Among these was Buchanan.  He had not fled many paces, when he received a mortal wound, as he supposed, which brought him to the ground.  He was dragged along by his companions to the Sonorian Camp, where a litter was procured, upon which he was transported to his home in town.  Three or four hundred of the inhabitants armed themselves with fire-arms <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:from the hardware store above alluded to, and proceeded to the ambuscade of the terrible robber chief.  My husband departed with the troop, previously locking me into the little shanty; for I dared not remain for an instant, in such exciting times, with the door unfastened.  For fear he would not return in the morning before the heat became too oppressive for me to bear, he raised a window in the room, and dropped the curtain.  Then I was alone, a prey to my gloomy fancies.  Every noise I heard, I fancied was from some terrible Mexican effecting an entrance through the window, and, in imagination, could already discern the swarthy, murderous visage, and detect the sharp, glittering blade of the assassin's knife.  The memory of that night, even now, is accompanied with a shudder.  Soon daylight began to dawn, and with the shades of night vanished all my fears.  I was so weakened by sickness, that, like a child, who is naturally prone to superstition and fear when alone in the dark, the sufferings I endured that night were similar.  The forenoon crept on apace, and yet that band of armed men had not returned, I knew, by the silence which reigned in the streets.  As I lay, wishing my husband would return, the window-curtain parted suddenly, and one of the ugliest-looking faces was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:thrust into the room I ever beheld.  At first, I was nearly paralyzed with terror; then, recovering my faculties, I exclaimed, at the top of my voice, "Vamos! vamos!"  Knowing him to be Spanish by his look, I addressed him in his own language; yet, feeling that was not sufficiently expressive, I added, by way of effect, a few English invectives, which fell <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
065.sgm: harmlessly upon his uncomprehending ear.  I have often since been amused at the recollection of the amount of courage displayed in words, when I was so entirely helpless and imbecile, as far as action was required.  He very leisurely reconnoitred the apartment, cast a look commingled of scorn and pity upon me, turned upon his heel, and disappeared.  What was the object of this visit of espionage, I never could conjecture.  About noon, my husband returned.  The party had been unsuccessful in the pursuit; had caught glimpses of the retreating party several times, but they had finally eluded pursuit.  The people returned chagrined and discomfited to their homes, to hear, in a week, of other murders still more atrocious.  The sheriff was alive at noon, but no hopes were entertained of his recovery, as the ball, to all appearance, had entered his side, and passed out at the breast.  His friends stood around the bed, momentarily expecting him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Oh, how happy I felt when I could walk out once more!  Distinctly do I recollect the first day I left the shanty for a walk.  I went the distance of a square to visit my kind friend Mrs. S--.  Upon my return, I found a dear brother whom I had not seen for two years and more.  Oh, the joy of that meeting!  Words would inadequately express my feelings.  Only one month had elapsed since he bade adieu to home and friends, laden with so many messages of love; and now here he was, beside me, repeating what father, mother, brothers, sister, had said such a short time ago.  It seemed as if I had been transported to the dear old home; had met the family assembled around the hearthstone, and together we had spoken sweet words of counsel and of love.  The night succeeding his arrival, we sat and conversed together until daylight began to dawn, we had so much to say-- <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
065.sgm: so many questions to ask; <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
065.sgm: so much to relate.  He was very much shocked to see me looking so much like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:a wreck of my former self.  Sickness and trouble--yes, <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>Soon after my brother's arrival, I received a visit from my esteemed friends, Mr. and Mrs. B--and Nelly.  During their stay, we visited Yuba city, situated about half a mile from Marysville, on the opposite bank of Feather River.  It may not be amiss to state, that Yuba city, with the exception of three or four houses, has been removed to Marysville.  There is, however, an Indian rancheria existing there, which draws many visitors to the spot.  We started, one bright morning, in a two-horse team, to visit the rancheria.  It was proposed to ford the stream.  Accordingly, we started for the ford.  The banks of the river are quite precipitous; and, as we descended the steep slope, and saw the wide, rolling river below, we felt (Mrs. B--and myself) as though we would rather never see an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>An Indian rancheria consists of a number of huts, constructed of a rib-work or frame of small poles, or saplings of a conical shape, covered with grass, straw, or tule, a species of rush, which grows to the height of five or six feet.  The huts are sometimes fifteen feet in diameter at their bases, and the number of them grouped together vary according to the number of the tribe which inhabit them.  The Indians are generally well made, and of good stature, varying from five feet four inches to five feet ten, with strong muscular developments.  Their hair is long, black, and coarse; and their skin is a shade lighter than that of a mulatto.  It is universally conceded that the California Indians possess but few, if any, of those nobly daring traits of character which have distinguished the savage tribes of the Atlantic States, from the days of King Philip down to the notorious Billy Bowlegs.</P>
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065.sgm:<P>The extreme indolence of their nature, the squalid condition in which they live, the pusilanimity of their sports, and the general imbecility of their intellects, render them rather objects of contempt than admiration.  They are deficient in all those manly arts which have given measurable immortality to the Cherokees.  They have none of the invention of the Sioux, Pottawatamies, or other north-western Indians, and are outwitted by the cunning even of the "Tontos," whose own self-applied vernacular assigns no higher rank in aboriginal tradition than that of <HI REND="italics">fools</HI>
065.sgm:<P>They place entire dependence on nature's bounty for support.  If the crop of acorns fails, or the mountain streams send not forth their usual schools of fish,--snails, worms, roots, and insects, furnish food with which they appease the gnawings of hunger.  There is a kind of grass in the valleys the Indians eat, that is pleasant to the taste and nutritious.  In the season of this grass, I have seen numbers of them all out feeding like cattle.  The children all go naked.  This grass has a tendency to increase their ordinary dimensions; and you will often hear it remarked, as one makes his appearance, "There comes a little grass-fed."  We saw them making their acorn bread (parn they call <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:bread).  To render it short and rich, they mashed up angle-worms, and put in it.  After baking it,--which they did by making an excavation in the earth, and building a fire therein; when the earth was sufficiently heated, they scraped out the ashes, put in the bread, and covered it over with hot ashes,--they generously insisted upon our eating a piece.  The keenness of our appetites was considerably repressed, however, by witnessing the several employments of the tribe.  One old squaw was relieving her husband's head of a score of vermin, which she ate with an apparent relish.  She practised, however, the principle of self-abnegation to perfection, by occasionally tossing some of the finest-looking ones down his throat, for which he smacked his thanks with apparent zest.  The hair on the heads of the chiefs is all drawn up, and tied in a knot on the top of the head, and ornamented with feathers.  The squaws' heads look like pitchmops; the hair is very thick, coarse, and black, and cut square round the head.  No part of the forehead is visible; the hair falls to the eye-brows.  They have jet-black eyes; and some of them have a decidedly pleasant expression with the eye.  The little babies are beauties.  Their mothers learn them to swim, as soon as an old duck does her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The longevity of the race is proverbial.  We saw some who looked more like mummies than living beings.  They bring them out of the huts, and set them in the sun, days; and there we saw them sitting, their eyelids drooping so you could not perceive the eyeball, limbs perfectly motionless, and so shrivelled and black as to be absolutely repulsive to the sight.  Some of their limbs are affected with a loathsome cutaneous disease.</P>
065.sgm:<P>When one of their number dies, they consume the body by fire, grind the bones to ashes; then the near relations mix these ashes with pitch, and daub their heads and faces with it, as a badge of mourning.  During this process, and for several consecutive days and nights, they keep up a loud <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Their mode of costume almost defies description, it is so omnifarious.  Sometimes they imitate the style adopted by our first parents in Paradise.  The women are especially delighted to get on a man's shirt, in which they will parade the streets apparently as pleased with themselves as any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:fashionable belle when sporting the most costly fabric.  I was once exceedingly amused at the sight of an Indian and his squaw promenading the street, dressed a&grave; la mode.  He sported a pair of boots, and an old, faded piece of calico over his shoulders, as an apology for a serape.  She was dressed in a red flannel shirt, over which she had drawn an old black satin sack, which some one had given her, or which she had stolen.  Over their black heads was elevated a shattered umbrella, and her arm was placed within his.  Immediately in advance of them were walking a very fashionably dressed gentleman and lady.  The countenances of the "Digger" and his mehala (an appellation given to the squaws) were illuminated with a grin expressive of much delight, entertaining, no doubt, the satisfactory belief that they were equally as much admired by observers as those in advance of them, whose motions and walk they were vainly endeavoring to imitate.  They are inveterate gamblers; but I think it would puzzle wiser heads than mine to understand their games.  They appear to place some value upon money, with which they gratify their gambling propensities.  They flock in numbers into the back yards of hotels, and greedily devour all the offal destined to be thrown to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The rivers abound in excellent salmon, which the Indians spear in great numbers, and dispose of in the towns.  They are the finest I ever tasted.  Some of them are three and four feet long, and weigh fifty pounds or more.  It is amusing to see the Indians spearing them.  They stand in the river on rocks or shoal places, looking intently into the water with the spear elevated, waiting, perfectly motionless, for a sight at one.  Instantly the spear descends, and, as sure as it does, it buries itself in the body of the fish.  Their aim is unerring.</P>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>AT this time my husband was engaged in transporting goods to the towns above Marysville.  He kept his horses in a shed at the rear of our dwelling.  One night we were aroused by the cry of "Fire!"  Upon opening my eyes, the room was as light as day.  It appeared as if the whole city <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>This time, too, the canvas shanty welcomed us back again to town.  Had it been of any value, perhaps it would have shared the fate of its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:neighbors; but, valueless as it was, it looked better to me upon my return than a mass of smoking ruins in lieu.  What oversights a person will commit when alarmed, or agitated by the cry of "Fire!"  One of these nights I dressed myself hastily, put on my dress (which fastened in front) hind-side before, and fastened every hook securely.  Of course, I never discovered my mistake until I returned to the house.  Soon after this, my brother left for the mines.  When the rainy season commenced, our house was a poor protection from the rain.  It ran through the canvas roof as through an old sieve.  We soon vacated it, and went to the Oriental Hotel.  This building my husband rented for the sum of six hundred dollars per month, furniture included.  It was a spacious new building, at that time the finest in the place.  Our expenses were eighteen hundred dollars per month.  We employed three cooks.  To our head cook we gave three hundred per month, and all the other domestics in a like proportion.  To one little boy, not much higher than the table, who was employed to wait upon the cooks, clean knives and forks, bring in wood, etc., we paid the exorbitant sum of sixty-five dollars per month.  Notwithstanding our expenses were so much, the net profits were ample.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:We had twenty and twenty-five dollars per week for board.  The house was always crowded.  While we were at the Oriental Hotel, the city was inundated.  Oh, that was indeed a gloomy time!  A vast amount of property was destroyed, and some lives lost.  The sudden melting of the snow in the mountains swelled the mountain streams to rushing torrents.  The most intense excitement prevailed in Marysville, as the Yuba River, swollen to its utmost capacity, was still rapidly rising.  What a wildly rushing, roaring, foaming mass of water came thundering on!  Higher and yet higher it came, until the plaza was fairly submerged.  Trucks were rushing to and fro, laden with merchandise being conveyed to the upper part of the city.  Many objected to leaving their houses, thinking the water would abate, until they were obliged to make their egress through the windows, and in boats were taken to dry land.  The Oriental fronted on quite high land.  At the back was a large basement, where was situated the culinary department, also the servants' apartments.  All this part of the building was entirely submerged, and the water lacked but a few inches of being to the first floor.  Night was coming on, and the water was still rising.  Fear and anxiety sat enthroned upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:countenances of all.  A short time previous to this, there had been erected on the plaza two brick blocks.  The water undermined the foundation of these buildings, and that night they fell with a terrible crash.  It is almost impossible to convey to the minds of those not present any correct idea of the gloomy aspect of affairs during the inundation.  Towards morning, the waters ceased to rise any higher, yet did not subside in the least.  A man residing on a ranch about five miles above Marysville, in attempting to save some cattle from drowning, was swept from his horse by the force of the current, and was borne down stream with astonishing rapidity.  He managed to keep his head above water, but was unable to clutch at anything whereby he might save himself.  As he neared the landing at Marysville, all the latent energy of his being was aroused to save his life, as that would be his last chance.  There was a large steamer lying there, made fast to the big tree on the plaza.  Any one who has visited Marysville will recollect this venerable tree.  Some of the earliest pioneers to this place recognize it as an old friend, under whose protecting arms they have for many nights sought a shelter.  With almost superhuman exertions, he caught hold of one of the paddle-wheels of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Feather River, too, overflowed her banks, and, in a south and westerly direction from Marysville, nothing could be seen but one unbroken sheet of water.  Many of the smaller houses were washed down stream.  One couple, living on a ranch twenty miles from Marysville, on the bank of Feather River, and far from any other habitation, were driven for safety to the top of a table.  As the water rose higher, they were obliged to rise higher.  It was a little bit of a shanty.  They knocked a hole through the roof, and crept out thereon.  They soon found they must vamos from there; so they embarked in some sort of a craft (tub or barrel), and paddled off to a little island.  After congratulating themselves upon their miraculous escape, they found they were not the only occupants of this island retreat: a big grisly bear had preceded them.  Not relishing such close companionship as he seemed inclined to offer, they quickly beat a retreat to a large tree, and, seated in its topmost branches, carefully guarded by "Old Bruin," they passed twenty-four gloomy hours.  When assistance arrived from a neighboring ranch, in the shape of a boat well manned, it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>My brother had returned from the mines, and was living upon a ranch on the banks of the Yuba.  He swam his horse quite a distance to save a woman and child.  When he arrived at the shanty, they were perched upon a table, calmly awaiting their fate.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The boats were sailing in every direction about the city; and all through the night could be heard the shrill cry of "Boat, ahoy!" resounding far over the waters.  All night long, on the opposite side of the Yuba, sat a Spaniard on the ridge-pole of his house, at one end, while, at the other end, was a big rat, each anxiously expecting relief.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Very gradually the waters began to subside; but it was a week before the city was passable at all.  One small house which was washed down stream, and lodged some distance below, the owner afterwards recovered; and, after placing it upon its original site, he corralled it, for fear of a similar accident.</P>
065.sgm:<P>We kept the Oriental four or five months; but the numerous cares devolving upon me were too wearing for my constitution.  Could I have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>ABOUT this time, in company with my brother, I took a journey a distance of eighty miles up the Sacramento River.  The whole distance, the route lay through the most beautiful valley of which imagination can conceive.  It was the season for flowers, and in every direction the most beautiful floral blossoms met the eye.  Oh, the beautiful ranches (farms we should call them) that were situated on the banks of this magnificent stream!  We passed some fields of wheat, containing five hundred acres in one inclosure.  We forded numerous streams which intercepted our course.  We saw herds of antelope bounding gracefully from our path.  To some we got sufficiently near to see their clear, bright, shining eyes.  Their graceful symmetry of form, their agile, sylph-like motions, all combine to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>We saw, too, the elk, in large numbers.  Once, as we were approaching a stream, there were several drinking therefrom.  As soon as they perceived us, they reared aloft their heads, surmounted by huge and stately antlers, and dashed away with the velocity of the wind.  As we neared a ranch belonging to MR. N--, everything bespoke the wealth and prosperity of the ranchholder.  He possessed a herd of one thousand horses.  That day they were corralled, for the purpose of branding those not already bearing the owner's mark.  This seems to me a cruel process, yet an unavoidable one there, where so many different people's stock are running together over the plains.  They blindfold the beast, and chain it to a post deeply imbedded in the earth.  Then the blacksmith takes the branding-iron, bearing the owner's stamp, heats <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>We travelled on through elysian valleys, until we reached our destination.  The only objection a person could have to a residence in these sunny vales is the annoyance one is subjected to from myriads of musquetoes, which, at certain seasons, swarm the country.  I have seen laborers at work in the fields with green veils tied to their hats, and drawn down over their faces, and fastened about their necks.  When we reached our destination (the ranch of Mr. S--), I was very much fatigued; but that, in a measure, was dispelled by the hearty welcome I received from Mrs. B-- (Mr. S--'s daughter), an interesting lady from New York, who arrived in the country at the time I did.  Her father was a very wealthy ranchholder.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Their dwelling-house was constructed of adobe brick.  It was only one story high, but more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>One chill autumn eve in 1850, might have been seen a man a little past the meridian of life, whose silvered locks and furrowed cheeks gave evidence of past griefs, of sufferings that had roughly stirred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:the deep fountains within,--else the surface would not have been so deeply channelled,--standing irresolutely before the door of a neat mansion in New York city.  Conflicting emotions of pleasure and of pain were rapidly crossing each other upon his countenance; and well they might, for he was standing, after an absence of nineteen years, at the door of his own house, desiring, yet scarcely daring, to enter.  He summoned courage to ring; the door opened, and he crossed the threshold of his home,--confronted his wife--how changed from the young and blooming woman he left so long ago! yet, the instant their eyes met, the recognition was mutual.  The little Bessy he left a babe, was all the child remaining at home.  He remained with his wife and child that winter; but there existed a yearning for his home in California, that he vainly endeavored to conquer.  He must return.  Would his wife and child go with him?  The daughter would, for she manifested unusual affection for her father, so recently found.  The wife preferred to remain behind.  In the spring, father and daughter left New York for the home in California.  They were unavoidably detained at Panama.  While there, the daughter became acquainted with a young gentleman from her native <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Mrs. B-- is a lovely woman, well qualified to grace the most refined and intelligent society.  There was a novelty and charm connected with their residence in that remote place, which rendered life peculiarly pleasant.  The extensive tract of land which Mr. S. possessed (since the confirmation of the ranch titles) has rendered him immensely wealthy.  Immediately upon our arrival, our horses were allowed to revel in the luxuries of wild oats.  They were actually up to their eyes in acres of the nutritious grain.  After the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>NOW came a report to Marysville that rich diggings had been discovered at a place designated French Corral, which was about fifty miles from Marysville.  This intelligence (as it ever does in California) caused hundreds of people, of all classes and professions, to rush simultaneously to the spot where gold was so gratuitously deposited.  My husband was desirous of going too; and, possibly, he might establish a boarding-house there, if the prospect bid fair.  So one morning, about a week after the tide of emigration had commenced flowing so rapidly, we started, and foolishly too, in a one-horse buggy.  It was reported there was a good wagon-road leading directly to the place.</P>
065.sgm:<P>But what would be called a good wagon-road <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:there, would be considered utterly impassable here.  Neither my husband nor myself had ever travelled in the mountains; if we had ever done so, no doubt we should have possessed wisdom enough to have taken the journey upon mules--decidedly the best mode of conveyance in the Sierra Nevada region.  Early one morn in the month of June, we left the town of Marysville, long before the inhabitants had awakened from their drowsy slumbers, and pursued our course in a north-easterly direction, following the course of the Yuba, crossing and recrossing it several times during the day.  About twenty miles from town, we struck the low hills (as they are termed) of the vast and gigantic Sierra Nevada range.  Low hills! thought I.  I should call them mountains, and higher ones, too, than I had ever dreamed of travelling over.  Recollect, kind reader, I had been reared away down on Cape Cod, where there are only a few slight elevations, justly denominated sand-banks.  After reaching the top of a high hill, (I suppose I must call it so, but it would suit my ideas better to say mountain,) the wheels were chained, preparatory to a descent.  How my heart beat, and how I wished myself back again, before we reached the base!  It was one of my pet horses that drew us, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>How entirely different was the scenery now from that enjoyed when traversing the beautiful valley of the Sacramento a short time previous! and yet in what close proximity these different sections lay!  I could scarcely realize that I had not travelled thousands of miles, to reach a country so very dissimilar.  After one becomes accustomed to mountain travel, I know not to which of these decidedly dissimilar landscapes the lover of nature would yield the palm.  After overcoming in part the emotions of fear, I was perfectly entranced at beholding the lofty mountains towering far above us, their sides and summits timbered with large pines, firs, and cedars.  And then how quiet and lovely looked those little valleys, so hidden and enclosed from the world, completely hemmed in by the grand and sublime elevations of nature's most magnificent handiwork!  Oh, what dark and gloomy-looking defiles were disclosed to view!--fit rendezvous for the sanguinary assassin, or the dark-skinned treacherous savage.  An involuntary shudder ran through my frame, as we wended our way through these silent mountain recesses.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I half-expected, every moment, to hear the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:whizzing of an Indian arrow past my ear, or the sharp click of the murderer's revolver.  We were well armed, for it was dangerous to travel in those mountains unarmed.  But I very much doubted my ability, so far as regarded courage, to use any weapon, (except woman's weapon,) even in self-defence.  Often, as you enter one of these little valleys, your eyes will be greeted with the sight of a little shanty.  Sometimes they call these mountain-glens corrals; and certainly they are corralled in by almost impervious barriers.  One, in particular, arrested my attention.  This valley was of an emerald green.  Through it ran a clear, gurgling mountain-stream, the music of its waters inviting the weary wayfarer to sip of the health-promoting beverage.  (I regret to add, at that time in California the health-inspiring properties of pure, unadulterated cold water were seldom tested.)  Several cattle and mules were nibbling the green grass.  But the prettiest feature of all, in my estimation, was an intelligent, bright-eyed little woman, seated just outside the door, under the shade of a magnolia, with a smiling, rosy little baby in her arms.  I was out of the buggy in an instant, and had the little darling in my arms.  There we obtained refreshments.  There was quite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>We will now glance back through many years to the innocent days of childhood--to this lady's pleasant home on the banks of the lovely Connecticut.  Not far from the shores of the Sound, which receives its limpid waters, stood a quaint, old-fashioned farm house; and <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
065.sgm:<P>Then those children, who had lived, and loved, and played together so long, must separate.  The heroine of my story, and a lad a few years her senior, belonging to the other family, had, almost unconsciously, as it were, conceived and cherished an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>In vain our heroine--now grown to a lovely and interesting woman--sought to deter her father from consummating this long-cherished plan of removal to the city of Zion.  We can conjecture how much she was influenced in adopting such a course by the knowledge which she had recently obtained that the lover of her youth, to whom she had, in defiance of oft-repeated solicitations to the contrary, ever proved faithful, was about to seek her for a fulfilment of his boyish pledge.  Her father was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The grief of the child under this affliction was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>In less than one week from this second bereavement, while fording a river, the father lost his life.  Thus was the daughter left alone, the last of her family.  She continued her journey with the company, and arrived safely at Salt Lake city.  Here another trial awaited her.  She had not been long there, before the great prophet, Brigham Young, selected her to swell the list of his spiritual wives, of whom at that time there were about thirty.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>One night, the occupants of this hotel were aroused by the appalling cry of "Fire!" in their midst.  The building was in a blaze.  Every one was rushing to obtain egress.  At such a time, woe to those prostrated upon a bed of sickness!  The shrieks of a sick man arrested the rapid steps of this woman, flying for safety from the devouring element.  Many had rushed past, unmindful of his call for succor, intent only on self-preservation; but the kind heart of woman could not resist this touching appeal to her sympathies.  She caught him in her arms, (for he was reduced to a mere skeleton, from intense suffering,) and rushed forth, just in time to escape the falling timbers.  By the assistance of another person, the sick man was conveyed to comfortable quarters, where every attention was rendered him by the lady who had preserved his life on that eventful night.  Owing to extreme <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Now I will proceed on our journey.  I regretted to leave that beautiful spot, so rural, so retired, so far from the busy haunts of man.  It had such a serene aspect, it seemed to me to be one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Finally we came to a little mountain town called Bridgeport.  It consisted of three little shanties and a toll-bridge, which spanned the Yuba River.  The setting sun was just gilding the tops of the surrounding mountains, as we halted in front of one of the dwellings to inquire the distance to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:French Corral.  They informed us it was about five miles.  They told us there was a pretty high mountain just beyond, and advised us to discontinue our journey for that night.  They seemed so particularly solicitous for us to remain all night, their shanty was so filthily dirty, and they themselves were such savage, hirsute-looking objects, that I entreated my husband to go on.  I thought, out of two evils, we were choosing the least by proceeding.  I came to a different conclusion, however, before we reached our destination.  My husband paid one dollar and a half toll, and we crossed a high bridge, under which rolled the Yuba.  At this place, it was a rapidly rushing stream.  It went foaming and dashing over innumerable rocks which intercepted its progress, overleaping every barrier, acknowledging no superior power.  Unceasingly it rolled on its course, its waters mingling with those of her sister rivers, and <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
065.sgm:<P>Directly after crossing the Yuba, we commenced the toilsome ascent of the highest mountain we had yet encountered.  At the commencement of the ascent, my husband alighted to walk up the mountain, and I was to drive up.  The poor horse started with all the energy he possessed, in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>I was fearful, every moment, the horse would fall, from utter exhaustion.  He was covered with white foam, and his tongue was extended from his mouth.  I screamed for my husband at the top of my voice; but he was puffing and blowing far down the mountain.  I finally contrived to get the carriage wedged in between two rocks.  I then got out, and went to the relief of the horse.  Poor fellow!  I thought he was dying, for some time.  When my husband appeared in sight, his appearance betokened about as great exhaustion as the horse.  After a good rest, we all proceeded up, I on foot too.  Three or four times I threw myself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:on the ground in utter exhaustion.  We could not proceed as leisurely as we would, had night not been so close upon us.  The summit was reached; and what a magnificent view greeted my wondering vision!  The road wound round the mountain near the top.  The sides of the mountain had been cut down, and a very good level road formed, of just sufficient width for only one carriage to pass round at a time.  A horn, which is found at each termination of this narrow pass, is loudly sounded by travellers, before entering on the road, as a warning of their approach.  The distance from this road down an almost perpendicular descent was one thousand feet; and at the base of the mountain rolled the foaming waters of the Yuba River.  Yet from that dizzy height it had the appearance of a white ribbon no wider than your hand.  The outside wheels of the buggy ran within three feet of the edge of the precipice.  Nothing could induce me to ride (even with our gentle horse) in such close proximity to the frightful chasm.  My husband jumped in and rode around, while I went plodding along, almost ankle-deep in the red sand.  Presently I heard voices behind.  I turned to look, and there, a few paces behind me, were two dark, swarthy, bewhiskered  individuals, each mounted on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>When they overtook me, one said, "Good evening, madam; this is a hard road to travel over Jordan."  To this I made no reply.  Said the other, "Wont you ride?  you look tired."  I told him there was a carriage waiting for me just round the mountain.  So they rode on.  Soon I found my husband waiting for me.  I quickly accepted his invitation to ride, for I feared meeting with other adventures, which might not terminate so pleasantly.  We travelled on, expecting to reach the corral every moment.  There were no more such high elevations on our route as the last we had surmounted;  but there were a plenty high enough, I assure you.</P>
065.sgm:<P>But for the brilliant rays of the queen of night, we should have been compelled to encamp in the mountains.  Nothing could exceed the grandeur and sublimity of these mountain-glens and can&tilde;ons, walled in by those grand and lofty mountains, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>About ten in the evening, we made our descent into the valley bearing the name of French Corral.  We were perfectly astonished at beholding such a collection of canvas houses--large frame boardinghouses and and hotels, brilliantly lighted gambling-saloons without number, and Spanish dance-houses, French cafe&acute;s, drinking-saloons, etc., ect.</P>
065.sgm:<P>It may not be amiss to state here the manner of building frame-houses, when the time occupied in building was two days for a private dwelling, four days for a hotel, and six days for a church.  The last mentioned, however, was not often raised.  A building would boast of a very slight frame, not boarded, but split clapboard nailed on to the frame, and the outside was finished.  Upon the inside, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Begging pardon for this digression, I will proceed with the description of this speedily-rushed-into-existence mining town.  We were directed to the California Hotel, as one capable of rendering the best accommodations.  Thither we accordingly went, and received a hearty reception.  Every attention benighted, tired travellers could reasonably require, was cheerfully conferred.  Next morning, we rose from our couches of straw, rather lame, to be sure, but anxious, nevertheless, to reconnoitre the town.  We first repaired to the mines.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>It is difficult, after all the descriptions he may read, for any one who has not been in the mines to obtain any correct idea of the manner in which they are worked, or of the difficulties and singular vicissitudes in life to which the miner is exposed.  If the miner be dependent upon others for his water by paying for it weekly, success demands that he should be an early riser.  Before the first dawn of light breaks upon the sky above him, he opens his eyes, rolls over on his hard bed, stretches his stiffened limbs, and, feeling about for his boots, places his hand upon something resembling an icicle, into which his feet are thrust, and the labors of the day commenced.  He kindles his fire, (that is, if he boards himself,) fills and sets on the coffepot, fries his "flap-jacks" and his pork, or warms up his beans, and the morning repast is prepared.  It is then quickly eaten; and, by the time it is daylight, the miner is beside his tom.  The water is let on, and in half an hour's time he is standing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The success of the miner depends a great deal upon luck.  He many be industrious, economical, possessed of good morals, labor perseveringly for months, and sometimes years, and still be poor, as far as the acquisition of gold is concerned; while, perhaps, an unprincipled spendthrift in a few months may realize a fortune.  A claim, too, may prospect rich, and yet, upon working it, yield scarcely sufficient to defray the expenses.  Sometimes, also, adjoining claims which prospect alike may prove, one rich, and the other poor.  I knew one fellow who had worked three weeks upon his claim, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>We found, upon walking about the town, that nearly every other building was a boarding-house.  So much competition had reduced board to twelve dollars per week, which would not pay, considering the fact of having to pay six cents per pound freight for the transportation of provisions from Marysville; so my husband relinquished the idea of opening a house there, and decided to return to Marysville on the following day.  That night, there was to be a grand ball at the Corral; and Mrs. R--, the wife of the gentleman who kept the house where we stopped, was very anxious for me to accompany her to witness the proceedings.  Accordingly, in the course of the evening, we stepped in, as silent spectators of the festive scene.  I was rather surprised at beholding such a recherche&acute; assemblage.  By the appearance of the company, I should not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Here, fifty miles from the settlements, were convened a collection of gentlemen and ladies, who had come, some ten, some twenty, and some thirty miles, to join in the merry dance.  I saw two Bostonians there.  It was a select company: all gamblers were excluded.</P>
065.sgm:<P>After having regaled ourselves with some refreshments, which the polite and gentlemanly host insisted upon our partaking, we took our leave, as, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>It is a peculiar feature of the climate in California, that, as soon as the snow disappears from the earth, the flowers spring up spontaneously.  There is no frost in the ground, and the heavy body of snow lying thereon serves to keep it warm.  While at the Corral, I was presented with an elegant bouquet, which a gentleman told me he gathered between two snow-banks, in such close proximity to each other, that, with his arms extended, he could reach the snow on either side.  The rising sun, next morning, found us at the top of that high mountain, very near the spot where he bade us adieu on our journey up.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Neither ourselves nor the horse were as fatigued as when we made the ascent; therefore, it did not appear half as formidable; yet I preferred being upon my feet.  It was really frightful to look at  the horse and buggy.  The wheels were both chained: yet how the poor horse had to brace his feet at every step!  It was on this same mountain, the following August, as a party of emigrants, who travelled across the plains, were descending in an ox-team, the wagon pitch-poled, distributing the contents (which consisted of a woman and two or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>When we reached Bridgeport, we were accosted by the toll-gatherer with "Well, I reckon as how you had a right smart heap of trouble that night, afore you reached the top of the mountain.  I allowed you would be for turning back; but I have always heard say, them Yankee women never would give up beat."  How he knew I was a Yankee, was beyond my comprehension; for he did not hear me speak, as I recollect of.  Must be my countenance was the index of the nation  to which I belonged; and I believe it does speak Yankee as well as my tongue; for I was never taken for anything else, except once--.</P>
065.sgm:<P>We met with no adventure particularly worth relating on our homeward journey.  When we descended again to the foot of the hills, they really seemed clipped of nearly one-half their altitude since I had passed over them.  I was also surprised at the wonderful amount of courage I had acquired during the trip.  Now I laughed at travelling over those hills I before had cried at.  That night, the little canvas house received within its walls a tired couple.  Not long after this did it afford us a home.  My husband sold it, and we went to the Tremont Hotel, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>SOON after this, I took a journey, in company with several ladies and gentlemen from San Francisco, to a mining locality, called Park's Bar, situated about twenty miles from Marysville.  After leaving the plain, our route lay through a thick growth of what is there termed chaparell.  It resembles, at a distance, the hawthorn.  So dense is this growth of bushes, it affords grand lurking-places for the assassin.  Many a poor miner, as he has trudged along, with his blankets upon his back, perhaps well laden with the shining dust, has at this place been pounced upon, and relieved of his burden, and perhaps his life, by some one of the many desperadoes who infest the country.</P>
065.sgm:<P>A gentleman of the company related an incident which occurred, as a friend of his was once travelling this particular locality.  He was driving a mule-team very leisurely along, in close communion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:with his thoughts, when, all at once, he was startled from his reverie by the sudden halting of his mules.  Upon looking up, there, close in advance of the mules, were two huge grisly bears, amusing themselves with their cubs.  His heart was in his mouth in an instant.  How could he compete with two such formidable antagonists, should they simultaneously attack him?  His mules betrayed the terror they were suffering by one long, continuous bray, in which they were speedily joined by their no less frightened driver.  This horrid din, suddenly bursting upon this bruin coterie, had the desired effect.  They instantly disappeared in the surrounding chaparell; while the teamster pursued his way with all possible dispatch, congratulating himself upon having escaped, at least, a very <HI REND="italics">feeling</HI>
065.sgm: embrace.  While speaking of this graminivorous animal, allow me to add, that I was acquainted with a family who had in their possession a cub, so tame that he used to play about the floor with the children as harmlessly as a pet-kitten.  He was prized so highly, they had declined several tempting offers to part with him.  Some hunters had shot his mother, and were dragging her off, when this little cub ran after them, sprang upon its dead mother, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>About mid-day, we arrived at our destination--quite a little town, picturesquely situated upon the banks of the Yuba.  Those little mountain towns are, to me, invested with a charm, a novelty, that is perfectly bewitching.  After refreshing ourselves at a hotel in the vicinity, we repaired to the mining ground, as we laughingly remarked, to prospect.  Some of the miners were so very gallant as to offer us the use of their pans, at the same time assuring us that they would allow us all the gold dust we were lucky enough to pan out.  It was considered rich diggins at this spot; therefore, the vision of a heap of gold dust incited us at once to doff our lace sleeves and fancy fixings, and enter zealously upon this to us novel method of obtaining that coveted metal.  Oh, it was back-aching work, I assure you!</P>
065.sgm:<P>Since that one half hour's work in the mines, how much sympathy I have felt for the gold-diggers!  The thought at once obtruded itself, that if some of the wives of these poor miners whom I had known could but realize one half of the toil and hardships their husbands endure in the acquisition of wealth, or of even a competency, by the use of the pan and shovel, they would not be half so lavish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Although the earth was yielding at the rate of ten cents to the panful, we very soon came to the conclusion, that we had rather suffer the privations incident to poverty than toil longer in that burning heat; so, wiping the perspiration from our vermilion countenances, we repaired to the hotel; from whence, after a short rest, I sallied forth to visit several female acquaintances of mine who resided at the Bar.  They were ladies who, upon their first arrival in the country, had boarded with us awhile, until their husbands could provide a suitable abode for them in the mines.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I found one of them, a Mrs. Q--, suffering excessively from a terrible fright she had received the night previous.  The facts were these:  They kept a boarding-house, where they accommodated about forty persons.  In the night, they were both awakened by a noise in their room.  Before they could move, and even before her husband could grasp a revolver which lay loaded under his pillow, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>I felt in hopes the party would conclude to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>During my residence in California, situated as I was most of the time in a hotel, I had ample opportunity to study human nature in all its varied phases.  Scenes of misery, too, I witnessed, enough to fill a volume, were they all recorded.  Scenes of gayety and splendor also diversified the way.  I attended one wedding in Marysville, the cost of which was currently estimated at two thousand dollars.  The bride was a fair widow of thirty, (and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>People in our staid, matter-of-fact, puritanical towns, can have but a faint conception of the ever varying, ever-changing scenes, pertaining to a life in California, where fortunes are made and lost in a day; friends die, and are forgotten soon, in the constant whirl of excitement which surrounds one.  People who, when I first arrived in California, were considered immensely rich in this world's goods, long before I left were reduced to penury.  The motto there is, "Nothing risked, nothing gained."  They will perhaps invest all they possess in some great speculation, (always bound to succeed,) and lose the whole.  Then, again, vice versa.</P>
065.sgm:<P>What shocked me more than all else in California was, to see the poor, sick, and often penniless people, brought to the hotels (there were no hospitals in Marysville at that time) to die; and then, when the soul had taken its flight to the spirit-land, to see the hearse drive to the door, take the body, which had been deposited in a rough box without the usual apparelling for the grave, and start off to the place of interment alone!  Not one solitary mourner to follow the remains, or drop the tear of affection at the grave of one who, perhaps, in some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>One day there were two brothers, brought by their father to the Tremont Hotel.  They were sick with a fever.  After a week of intense suffering, they died, and the lone father followed them to their last resting-place.  A few days subsequent to this event, he was attacked with the same fever which had proved fatal to his sons.  He soon felt convinced that he, too, must die.  When the proprietor of the house asked him if he had friends in the Atlantic states, to whom he wished word to be conveyed, "No," said he; "I am the last of my race.  I have no friend living to mourn for me."  He even declined naming the place of his birth.  In a few days after that, he lay beside his boys.</P>
065.sgm:<P>At another time, the mangled form of a young and intelligent-looking man was brought to a hotel.  He had been crushed in a horrible manner by the falling of a large rock where he was at work.  His head and chest alone remained uninjured.  A younger brother accompanied him to the hotel, and remained as his nurse.  Every night he used to slip quietly from his suffering brother's room, and repair to the gambling-houses, and there stake <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>One night, I heard the call so long continued, and so plaintively uttered, I could endure it no longer.  I rose, dressed myself, and repaired to the sufferer's room.  I found him all alone.  "I wish, madam," he said, "you would waken Jack.  He sleeps so soundly, I never can arouse him in the night.  I call until I am fearful of awakening the occupants of the surrounding rooms, and then I desist.  But now I think I am dying."  I told him his brother's bed was vacant.  He seemed very much distressed at his brother's absence.  Search was immediately instituted.  He was found at a gambling-table, betting.  He was summoned to the bedside of his brother.  After a while, the sick man revived.  He lingered through the next day.  At night, his physician enjoined his brother to remain constantly with him, as it was not probable he would survive until morning.  The passion for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The brother had passed the night in one of the many dens of infamy that abounded, and which shed, and still do, a withering blight over the fair and sunny valleys of the richest country the sun ever shone upon.  See, in this case, what a pernicious influence those gilded saloons of vice have upon the unstable mind of youth.  Here were two brothers, who had been reared by fond parents in the fear and admonition of the Lord.  Through their childhood they had loved one another; and together they had repaired to a distant land to seek their fortunes.  The younger, whose mind was more vacillating, had by degrees yielded to the song of that siren, Vice, until she had lured him to her haunts, causing him to forget home, friends, and even a dying brother, to follow in the train of the tempter.</P>
065.sgm:<P>My prayers are, and ever have been with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Go into the villages and towns throughout the Atlantic States, and in how many will you not find one, at least, who has been a heart-sufferer from the effects of those dens of sin and iniquity, which, until the organization of the vigilance committee, threw open their gilded doors, even in the glare of noon-day, to allure the weak-minded and unsuspecting!  And even the strong-minded have sometimes fallen a prey to their seductive wiles.  How many homes have been rendered desolate, how many families disunited and severed, how many hearts as well as fortunes broken, by the prevalence of that one great sin, gambling!  and it has been an almost universal vice in California.</P>
065.sgm:<P>How many enterprising and ambitious men have I known who emigrated with their happy wives to California, their hearts buoyant with bright anticipations of the future!  Success for awhile crowned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The young wife, neglected by her husband, her brilliant hopes crushed,--unless she be possessed of a strong mind, and has friends there to guide and guard her,--rather than return alone to the home of her childhood, gradually loses her self-respect, and finally swells the list of those we blush to name.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Those upon whom the sun of prosperity has ever shone, know not how bitterly painful is the first clouding over of youth's sweet visions--the first crushing blight of confidence and love--the first consciousness that life is not so fair and bright, nor friends so kind and true, as we have pictured them.  Not from observation wholly do I asseverate these statements--by sad experience have these sentiments become deeply imbedded in my heart.  I have known, and felt, and suffered <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
065.sgm:, in my short life.  But, when the wife's cup of misery is full to overflowing, and she returns to the home of her youth, expecting to receive the sympathy she so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Oh, ye slanderers!  pause in your career; for it is one of the most heinous sins that the instigator of all evil ever conceived, and from which every pure heart will turn with loathing and disgust.  If the professed slanderer ever has any moments of serious reflection, how severe must be the accusations of that faithful monitor within; for to how many, in the course of their life-time, have they cast their poisoned arrows, dipped in the foul extract of their own hearts, which, while it <HI REND="italics">kills</HI>
065.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>ONE bright morning, toward the latter part of the month of September, I left Marysville for a drive to General Sutter's residence, situated about eight miles below Marysville.  You cross Feather River at Yuba city, and follow the banks of this lovely stream, the scene varied and beautified by nature's incomparable adornments, until the picturesque mansion of the affable and dignified general greets the eye.  The road leads to the back entrance of the spacious, square court-yard, which is surrounded by a range of buildings on three sides.  Several large and stately trees rear their umbrageous branches far above the roofs of the adobe buildings, which, from their sylvan retreat, peep out a ready welcome to the tired stranger.  The grounds around the dwelling are tastefully and beautifully adorned with numerous parterres, some of which are inclosed with hedges of cactus.  Here I saw the first cultivated rose that had greeted my eye since leaving New England.  How the sight of those roses carried me back to the neat New England homes, embowered with honey-suckle and roses!  It was actually fragrant with home, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>We were invited by the general to enter his pleasant-looking domicile, which invitation we cheerfully accepted.  We were regaled with grapes, as luscious, I dare say, as the forbidden fruit which tempted the occupants of paradise.  The wines proffered,--the produce of the vines of California,--having attained age, were pronounced of an excellent quality in substance and flavor.  Sweet music, discoursed by one of the general's sons, enhanced the pleasure of this often-remembered visit.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The Indians in the immediate vicinity are devoted to the general's service; while the only remuneration they ask or expect is their food.  His house servants are all the female Diggers.  The general's family carriage is drawn by two sleek-looking mules; and the driver's box is occupied by a Digger Indian, in costume a&acute; la fancy.  Mrs. Sutter generally denies herself to all visitors; but the regret generated by her absence speedily vanishes in the presence of the affable, courteous general, who ever welcomes his visitors with a cordiality inseparable from the man, whose integrity never bent to wrong or pusillanimous expediency, and who, armed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>We arrived back to Marysville just as the red orb of day touched the rim of the western horizon, covering it all with crimson and gold, and filling the world with a flood of evening glory.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I was often amused, while sojourning at the Tremont, by witnessing the transformations effected by a change of apparel on the inhabitants of the mountains, when they made temporary visits to the valleys.  One day, a weary and care-worn-looking miner entered the bar-room of the hotel.  Nought of his countenance was visible save his eyes and nose; for over his brow was drawn a soiled Kossuth hat; while the lower part of his face was entirely concealed by an abundant growth of hair.  He deposited his blankets upon the floor, advanced to the bar-keeper, and inquired for the proprietor of the house.  To him this soiled and travelled-stained miner delivered up thousands for safe keeping.  He seated himself in the gentlemen's parlor, eyeing intently for some moments an open piano.  Upon his advancing toward it, and seating himself upon the music-stool, a smile, bordering on derision, involuntarily passed from one to another of the occupants of the room.  The smile, however,was speedily <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:changed to looks of astonishment, when, after running his fingers hastily over the keys, music such as we sometimes hear in our dreams, but <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
065.sgm:<P>When next he appeared in their midst, the metamorphosis was so complete as to utterly prevent recognition, had he not again seated himself at the piano.  He remained several weeks at the hotel, and often delighted us with specimens of his musical talent.  He was considered by connoisseurs as the greatest performer upon the piano in all California.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I never saw a miner without thinking how little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The good fortune of a lady in California, which came under my especial observation, I will here record.  Upon the arrival at Marysville of one of the up-river boats, a fine-looking lady, whose age might perhaps be thirty or thereabouts, came to the Tremont Hotel, and desired an interview with the proprietor.  She informed him she was entirely destitute of funds, as the journey from New York had been more expensive than she had expected, and begged, as a favor, the loan of twenty dollars.  Could she obtain that amount, she intended to pursue her way to Downieville, where she hoped and expected to find a friend and relative.  The proprietor accordingly proffered the required sum, although somewhat doubtful of receiving it again, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:or even of seeing the recipient.  The next morning she resumed her journey; and the remembrance of this fine-looking widow was obliterated by the occurrence of other and more important affairs.  Five or six weeks had elapsed, when, one day, she astonished us all by appearing in our midst.  Upon meeting the proprietor, "Oh," said she, "I have been <HI REND="italics">so</HI>
065.sgm: successful! and now I have come to liquidate old debts."  The nature of the success was this:  She arrived at Downieville, found the one of whom she was in pursuit, and he built her a canvas house, procured her a cooking-stove, a long board table, and some wooden benches, and she commenced keeping a boarding-house.  She soon had thirty or forty boarders, for each of which she received twelve dollars per week.  One day, as she was sweeping her floor,--which, by the way, was nothing but the earth,--she saw something glitter.  Upon examination, it proved to be a lump of gold.  She searched farther, and found the earth was full of particles of gold.  She instantly summoned to her presence the friend who had assisted her in locating herself in such rich diggings.  They removed the table, benches, and stove.  Upon the last-named utensil a dinner was in progress; but who would think of preparing a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>That day they two took from the kitchen floor, as she termed it, five hundred dollars, mostly in lumps.  Every day witnessed similar success.  As soon as she could think of leaving her treasures for two days, she hastened to Marysville to cancel her debts.  Afterwards she became a frequent visitor at the house.  I became very well acquainted with her; and one day she related the cause of her leaving home alone, to seek a home in California.  She was married very young, and in opposition to the wishes of her parents.  Unfortunately, her married life proved miserable in the extreme.  After a lapse of years, she returned penniless, with one child, to the home of her youth, where she received a hearty welcome from her father; but the gentle, loving mother, whom she had forsaken, had gone long since to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>It was a novel sight to me to watch the emigrant wagons, as they passed through Marysville to their different destinations.  How dusty and travel-stained they appeared, after a four and five months' journey across those almost boundless prairies, after fording those mighty streams, whose waters had been navigated by nought save the red man's canoe, effecting a passage through lonely can&tilde;ons and over towering mountains, enduring almost every hardship the human frame is capable of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>How emaciated the cattle looked; and no wonder, for how many long and weary miles they had travelled!  I almost fancied those old oxen actually smiled for joy at arriving at their destination; yet many of their number had given out on the way, and their bones lay bleaching in the sun.</P>
065.sgm:<P>A lady who had travelled across the plains told me how sad it made her feel when she saw the cattle giving out on the way.  Said she, "Those dumb beasts would express so much sorrow in their faces when they began to falter in their pace, they would look so wishfully into the face of the teamster, and low so mournfully, I knew they understood their situation."</P>
065.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the sufferings and hardships those emigrants endure while on their "winding way," all is forgotten when they reach the settlements.  Their swarthy, sun-burned faces are radiant with joy as they pass along.</P>
065.sgm:<P>It is astonishing how much one of those wagons will hold.  I saw one passing with eight holes cut in the canvas on one side, and a child's face peeping out at every one of these holes.  Besides the children it contained, there were cats, dogs, beds and bedding, cooking-stove, tin pans, and kettles.</P>
065.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Two emigrant wagons passed through town one day, each driven by two beautiful-looking girls--beautiful, although browned by exposure to the weather.  In their hands they carried one of those tremendous, long ox-whips, which, by great exertion, they flourished, to the evident admiration of all beholders.  Their surpassing beauty gained for them the appellation of the "belles of the plains."  In two weeks from the time they attracted so much attention, driving each three yoke of oxen through town, they were married to gentlemen whom they had never seen until they arrived in California, and who had never seen them until they beheld them as teamsters.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I often saw ladies at the hotel who had resided eight and twelve months at different bars far up in the mountains, where they were the only females, and during all this time would not see a lady to speak to.  You can imagine how fast they would talk, upon getting where there were plenty of their own sex.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I was quite amused at an incident related by one of those ladies, who had been for eight months thus isolated from all society.  Her husband kept a boarding-house, where he accommodated about thirty miners, which were all that worked at that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:place.  A short time previous to the occurrence of the scene here related, these miners had had some trouble with a tribe of Indians whose rancheria was not far distant.  They had heard several times that they meditated an attack upon all the whites in their vicinity, and for some time they had been upon their guard; but, as they heard nothing from them, they had relaxed their watchfulness.  One day, when they were all at work in the mines, and this lady alone in the house, instantaneously a deafening war-whoop rang in her ears.  She ran to the door, and saw, at a little distance from the house, about two hundred painted Indians, armed with bows, arrows, and hatchets, advancing at a rapid pace.  She rushed from the house, frightened half to death, (as she expressed her feelings,) and ran, screaming, to the spot where the men were at work.  They, hearing the war-whoop and her screams, and seeing the whole tribe making such a rapid descent, naturally supposed they were coming to exterminate them; and if so, flight was out of the question.  There was no alternative but to meet the foe, and fight with picks and shovels; for their fire-arms were in the house, and the Indians were between the house and where they were.  They directed Mrs. -- to flee across the river, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>"Reaching it, I would hide myself for a few moments, and then think, `They will surely find me here; I must find a better place than this;' and then leave it in search of another.  In this way I hid myself a dozen times.  Finally, I climbed up into the branches of a large tree, and there remained, for how long I could not tell--the time seemed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:interminable.  Then I heard some one shouting.  I was so terrified, I could scarcely retain my seat.  Soon I heard my own name called, and recognized my husband's voice.  <HI REND="italics">He</HI>
065.sgm:<P>It seemed these Indians had started, in honor of some great occasion, to visit a neighboring tribe.  They had painted and armed themselves, as they ever do when they start upon a journey to celebrate any great event.  Their object in raising such a war-whoop was, doubtless, a sportive one; for they passed the miners with their countenances illumined with a broad grin.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The lady, who was from the New England States, returned to her house with some idea of the sufferings of the early New England settlers.  It was days before she recovered her usual equanimity.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Another lady told me that she was the first who arrived at Can&tilde;on Creek, situated a hundred miles from Marysville, in the Sierra Nevada Mountains; and that, when she arrived at the top of the mountain which overlooked the ravine in which the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>As a specimen of the sort of accommodations a traveller is likely to meet with in a journey through the more unsettled parts of the mountains, I will describe a public-house on the trail (as it was called) that I once had occasion to stop at.  It was a little log shanty, kept by a woman--of what color I was unable to determine, on account of the dirt upon her person.  She hailed from out West, somewhere.  I think it must have been far West, where the cleansing properties of soap and water were not often tested.  There was no floor in this shanty but the earth, and even that looked as if it had never been swept.  How could I stay, and eat, and sleep in so much dirt?  There was no alternative; night was close at hand, and no other <HI REND="italics">public-house</HI>
065.sgm: within <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:many miles.  She prepared us a <HI REND="italics">good supper</HI>
065.sgm:<P>At one time there came down from the mountains the most comical-looking old couple I ever beheld.  They were English, and had emigrated to the Western States ten years previous to the date of my story.  They had been in California two years, during which time they had never left the mines.  She worked mining with her husband.  It was the commencement of the rainy season when they left the mines; and all she had on, to protect her from the weather, was a thin, faded calico gown--one which she had brought from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:England ten years before; and it was the best garment she possessed.  Over her shoulders she wore a calico jacket, and on her head an apology for a sun-bonnet.  Her husband wore a Mackintosh, which reached to his heels, and on his head an old hat, and oh, what a hat!  Altogether, they were the most forlorn-looking couple one would wish to see.  They carried penury in their very countenances.  I pitied her so, I gave her a gentleman's dressing-gown, which had been left at the hotel.  It was rather soiled, to be sure; but then it was better than anything which she had.  When she went away, she wore it off.  They had started home to England, by the way of New York.  When the bar-keeper requested him to register his name, he made a cross; and she was as ignorant as he.  At night she asked me if I would give her a room with good fastenings to the doors and windows, as they had a good deal of gold dust with them.  I inquired to know where it was, as they brought no baggage with them, except a little bag, which she carried on her arm.  She said it was in belts around their waists.  I told her, if it were much, she had better deliver it up to the proprietor of the house for safe keeping.  Said she, "Oh, no, I would not lose sight of it for anything!  I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>I often thought of them after they left, and felt assured in my own mind that they would lose their money before they arrived home.  They were two very simple people, and betrayed by their looks evident signs of fear of robbery.  The next news I heard of them was, that they were both drowned at Virgin Bay, while going from the shore in a boat to get on board the steamer.  The particulars were these: The boat was loaded with passengers; and, it being rather rough, they became frightened, and all rushed to one side, and capsized her.  This old couple, having so much gold about their persons, sank immediately; while those who were not burdened with gold were quickly picked up by other boats.  Thus these two old people, who had lived in poverty all their days, died rich, clutching the treasures for which they had toiled so hard, and to obtain which, they had denied themselves the comforts of life.  The school of poverty in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>WHILE in California, I had charge, for a while, of a little girl, whose mother had died just as the steamer upon which she was on board neared the wharf at San Francisco.  The father, mother, and two children were on board the ill-fated Independence, which was wrecked, and then burnt, on the coast of Old California.</P>
065.sgm:<P>When she commenced burning, the father hoped to save his family from the flames by swimming with them to the shore.  Being an expert swimmer, he thought that, by taking one at a time, he might succeed in bringing them all to the land.  He suspended his wife over the ship's side farthest from the flames, wrapped the babe of ten months in a shawl, and consigned it to the care of a passenger until his return, took the little girl of four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Long before they reached the land, she was senseless.  In the meantime, the flames were increasing with such rapidity that it behooved the father to hasten back, in order to save his wife from the devouring element.  He left the little girl senseless upon the beach, dove into the foaming surf, and was several times borne back to the shore before he could get beyond it.  As he neared the burning wreck, the flames burst out afresh, forcing the frightened passengers to leap into the angry waters.  The gentleman who held the babe threw it into the ocean to save himself.  In its descent, the shawl became detached from it, and the child fell into the water a short distance from the mother, but beyond her reach.  In one of its little hands it held a toy; and, as it was borne off on the top of a receding wave, its little plump arms were raised, and the mother saw the white dimpled hand firmly grasping the toy.  She could look no longer.  Her babe was hastening on to swell the angel-band in the courts of the blessed!</P>
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065.sgm:<P>When her husband reached her, the flames were close around; her dress had even been scorched.  With her he started back to the shore.  But very few could have breasted the angry waters as he did; but he was impelled by a motive which seemed to lend strength to his well-nigh exhausted frame.  He reached the shore with his wife.  Some one had found the little girl senseless, and had succeeded in restoring her to consciousness.  The body of the infant was afterwards washed ashore, with the toy grasped in its hand.  They made its little grave on the lonely beach, and placed it therein.</P>
065.sgm:<P>For three or four days these shipwrecked passengers remained upon the beach, their only nourishment being molasses and vinegar.  They were then taken on board a vessel, and carried to San Francisco.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The mother, weakened by exposure, and suffering from a hurt which she received in her side while being suspended from the ship, breathed her last just as she was nearing their destined port.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Little Rosa (her name was Rosa Taylor) often told me the sad story in her artless, baby way.  How impressive was her manner, when, seated in a little chair by my side, her dimpled face upturned, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Rosa staid with me three months, while her father was at the mines.  Then he came, and took her away to Oregon.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I must not forget to mention the delights of stage-coaching in California.  In the first place, the coaches are built of the strongest materials to be obtained, and are sufficiently large to carry from twenty to thirty persons.  In the dry season, when the rivers are low, large boats do not run to Marysville, and most of the travel is effected by stages.  I once rode to Sacramento and back in one of those six-horse coaches, when the passengers, inside and out, numbered twenty-eight.  The thermometer stood at 110 deg., and the dust was so dense as to almost suffocate one.  We were all obliged to <HI REND="italics">unpack</HI>
065.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>By the time you arrive at the end of your journey, your eyes, nose, and mouth are filled with dust, as well as your clothes.  One day's ride ruins the clothes; but, if a person is blessed with a strong constitution, he may possibly survive several consecutive days' riding in those crowded coaches.  The roads between Marysville and Sacramento are very level, it being a vast plain the whole way.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Journeying through the mountainous sections of the country in coaches, is perfectly awful.  The passengers are obliged to alight, and push behind the vehicle, to assist the horses up every hill, and, when they arrive at the summit, chain the wheels, all get in, and ride to the base of the next mountain, in danger every moment of being overturned, and having their necks broken.  For thus working their passages they have to pay exorbitant fares.</P>
065.sgm:<P>One night, about eleven o'clock, a lady came into the hotel, looking more dead than alive.  She was leading a little girl, of about seven years of age, who was in the same plight as the mother.  They were both covered with bruises, scratches, and blood, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>All the Chinamen, with their long cues reaching to their heels, were rolling and tumbling about in the most ungraceful manner imaginable.  They were vociferating at the top of their voices in a language which, if spoken calmly, and with the greatest mellifluence, is harsh and disagreeable in the extreme.  "And," said she, "such a horrid din of voices as rang in my ears, it was scarcely possible to conceive of; which, together with the fright, was almost sufficient to deprive me of reason."  The driver was seriously hurt, and so were some of the horses; but the inside passengers escaped without having any limbs broken, but their cues were awfully disarranged.</P>
065.sgm:<P>In the dry season, there were as many as a dozen coaches which left Marysville every morning, and as many would arrive every evening.  Generally, they were all loaded to their utmost capacity.</P>
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065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>In California, two-thirds of the population seem to be constantly travelling (in search of new and rich diggins, I suppose).  It was quite amusing to listen to the rigmarole which each driver had over, as they reined in their horses in front of the different hotels.  The names of the different localities along their routes, which they would sometimes work into laughable doggerel, the cracking of their whips, and the jokes cracked upon one another, were quite diverting.</P>
065.sgm:<P>At the time I was in Marysville, it was not safe to walk around in the suburbs of the town, in a dark evening, unless armed.  Late one evening, as myself and husband were riding into town, we distinctly heard the click of a revolver, and two reports followed in quick succession.  The balls whizzed past our ears, giving us no very agreeable sensation, I assure you.  There was no moon, but it was starlight.  Whether we were taken for people for whom some one was lying in wait, with the view of plunder or murder, or for what those shots were fired, ever remained a mystery to us.  At any rate, it gave us such a fright, I never was caught out there again after dark.</P>
065.sgm:<P>There was one house in Marysville which had been in process of erection four years, and was not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Now, I will relate one hen story; not about a renowned Shanghai, but a genuine, old-fashioned, yellow hen.  Hens at that time, in California, were among the things to be coveted: the meanest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:specimens were sold at five dollars apiece.  Some of the Spanish population kept quite a number of fowl.  A lady told me she wanted to purchase a male hen; that an old Spaniard came to her house one day, who, she knew, had fowl to sell.  <HI REND="italics">She</HI>
065.sgm:<P>When I lived in the canvas shanty, a partition of cloth ran across the centre of the building.  On one side of the partition stood my bed, and on the other my brother's.  An outer door opened into this room.  One day, an old yellow hen walked in very unceremoniously, hopped upon the bed, and prepared to lay.  Soon she jumped off, and left an egg.  She conducted the whole affair with the greatest secrecy, not even indulging in that greatest luxury of all, cackling.  Of course, I fed her, very glad indeed of her egg, as they were fifty cents apiece.  The next day, she came again, and left another; and so she kept on, until she had laid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>After I had been living at the Tremont some time, I went to my room one day, and there, on the window-seat, was perched the identical old hen that I had sold.  My window was open, and she had flown in.  She appeared delighted to see me, and evinced her delight by singing quite merrily.  She seemed determined to room with me, and I allowed her to remain until I could go and find the one to whom I sold her.  He had moved, and was not to be found.  Of course, the hen was mine again; but, situated as I now was, I could not accommodate her with a room in the house, and for which she seemed to have a decided predilection.  I therefore placed her to board out on a ranch.  She continued <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:to lay eggs and raise chickens, until I realized, from the sale of them, forty-five dollars.  I then sold her again for five dollars, as she was getting rather old.  In one week after I sold her, she died, from <HI REND="italics">grief, I suppose, at being sold</HI>
065.sgm:.  From that old yellow hen I made quite a <HI REND="italics">pile</HI>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>I RECOLLECT the execution of one man in Marysville, which created quite an excitement in town.  One day my ears were assailed with the most piercing shrieks.  Upon inquiry, I learned that a man had been arrested by the Vigilance Committee for stealing.  A great crowd had collected in the street in front of the committee's rooms, among whom was the wife of the man arrested; and hers were the shrieks which rent the air.  Two little children were following her, crying, "You shall not hang my father!  you must not kill him!"  Finally the committee rendered him up into the hands of the law.  He had his trial, was condemned, and sentenced to be hung.  While he was in jail, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The night previous to the day upon which he was to be executed, she made an attempt to fire the city, in the hope, doubtless, that her accomplices in guilt would effect his liberation while the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The next day, she begged permission to visit her husband in his cell.  She was allowed to go, but not alone; but, somehow or other, she managed (they supposed) to slip something into his hand, for, a short time after the interview, when they went to take him to the gallows, they found him insensible, whether from fear, or from something which he had taken, they could not ascertain.</P>
065.sgm:<P>He was taken to the gallows, and the forms of execution enacted, although he manifested no appearance of life whatever.  While this last act was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Every day, for some time after, might be seen this woman, dressed in a garb of the deepest mourning, holding each of her children by the hand, and traversing the streets, apparently in great distress.  It was thought she made this public display of grief to excite sympathy.  Soon after this, she disappeared from the city.</P>
065.sgm:<P>It often made me feel sad, during my residence in California, to see the people recently from the Atlantic states so hopeful and buoyant in spirits, anticipating such rich harvests of gold, with which they would return to their homes and families, I knew so well the sufferings and hardships they would be likely to endure before they could return, if they ever did.  But I ever refrained from casting a shade of melancholy over the bright future in prospective by prophetic warnings.  I recollect one gentleman in particular, who was <HI REND="italics">so</HI>
065.sgm:<P>He departed for the mines, and, in three months from that time, was brought back, crippled for life!  While blasting rocks, he had one arm so shattered that he was obliged to have it amputated above the elbow.  Both eyes were rendered sightless for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>I often amused myself for hours, studying, not human nature, but mule nature.  It is really astonishing to witness those pack-mules, and see the wonderful knowledge they display by their manoeuvres.  In packing them for a trip to the mountains, the Mexicans load them unmercifully.  They make them carry loads weighing from three hundred to three hundred and fifty pounds, and strap the articles on so tightly that I should think it would stop their breaths.  The poor creatures will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:tremble under such an unmerciful load, and sometimes I have seen them, after going a little way, fall from exhaustion, and the weight of their load.  Then those cruel Mexicans would beat them, until the blood would run from their noses; and, if they were very much reduced from previous hard usage, they would die, with that heavy pack strapped to them.  These pack-mules have such a horror of going with their loads to the mountains, that, after they are packed, and are waiting for the remainder of the train, (these trains sometimes consist of fifty and sixty mules,) they will endeavor to secrete themselves away behind some building or wagon, and keep so very still and quiet, seemingly listening and hoping they may not be found.  By and by, when the old, cruel Mexican warns them of his presence by a heavy slap with the piece of untanned hide he invariably carries in his hand, accompanied with the expression of <HI REND="italics">hippa, mula</HI>
065.sgm:<P>These trains are led by a horse, with a bell attached to his neck.  He is designated the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>When they return to the valley again, they are so delighted, that when they get to within a mile or two of the town, they commence running, and braying at the top of their voices.  And then look out for the dust!  Such clouds of it as they will raise in passing a house, is almost suffocating.  You must hasten, and close the doors and windows, otherwise the house will be filled.</P>
065.sgm:<P>"As stubborn as a mule," is an old adage; and I have seen this maxim verified oftentimes.  I have seen them so obstinate, you might kill, but never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>At one time, there was great excitement in the mountains respecting the mysterious disappearance of a man named Dunbar, who kept a public-house on the trail leading from Marysville to Onion Valley, on Slate Creek.  These public-houses, by the way, were nothing more than little shanties; and the only servant generally employed about them was a cook.  Travellers who passed and repassed Dunbar's house, and found no one there but his cook, (a young man formerly from Lowell, Massachusetts,) naturally inquired for Dunbar, and was told that he had gone to San Francisco.  Finally, the house was closed.  Then suspicions were rife <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The cook, very naturally, was the first person suspected of perpetrating this horrid murder.  He was traced to San Francisco and arrested, just as he was stepping on board a steamer bound to Panama.  He was accused of the murder, appeared very much agitated, and finally confessed what he knew about the affair.  One night, two people came from a mining locality near by to Dunbar's house, and requested a night's lodging.  They frequently came there, and passed the night.  That evening, they played cards with Dunbar; and, in the course of the evening, he had occasion to go to a chest which stood in the room, and deposit some money.  In this chest was about five thousand dollars.  Whether they saw it, or whether he told them he had it, he (the cook) did not know.</P>
065.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>One of the men came to him in the kitchen, and disclosed their intentions of murdering Dunbar that night, and securing his money, which they would share with him, if he would take an oath of eternal secrecy; if not, his life would pay the forfeit.  Fear compelled him to agree to this proposal.  Just then, Dunbar and the other villain came into the kitchen, and advanced to the outer door; whereupon the other one caught up an axe near by, and struck Dunbar a blow on the back of the head, causing him to fall.  Then followed another blow, which completed the work of death.  He was then buried as above described, and the money taken possession of by the murderers.  Said he, "They offered me a share of their ill-gotten treasures; but no--I would not pollute my fingers by receiving one dollar of their blood-stained gold.  Dunbar was a friend to me, and gladly would I have saved him from the horrid death which awaited him, had it been in my power so to do; but I was paralyzed with terror at the horrid revelation to which I had just listened.  When they departed, I should have hastened to some authority, and made instant disclosure of the whole transaction; but was deterred from so doing by the fear of being murdered by those fiends in human shape.</P>
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065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>"I then determined to leave the country; which determination I was in the act of putting into execution when arrested.</P>
065.sgm:<P>"I declare to you, I am innocent of all or any participation whatever in the horrid affair."</P>
065.sgm:<P>The two murderers were at once arrested.  They had changed their place of residence, but were soon ferreted out; and all three were sentenced to be hung at Slate Creek.  My brother was present at the execution.  The two murderers died as they had lived--hardened sinners--profaning and blaspheming until the last.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The cook declared his innocence to the latest moment, and begged, even after the rope was adjusted about his neck, to be allowed to write to his wife.  This boon was granted him.  He then asked if he might make a few remarks.  He commenced; and so eloquently did he plead for pardon, so heart-softening were his remarks, that, had not the mob been so exasperated by previous horrid disclosures made by the two murderers, he would and ought to have been pardoned.  They had gone so far as to say, "All who are in favor of hanging this man, go down the hill; and all who are not, go up;" and, as the majority started to go down the hill, some of the more ferocious ones caught the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>One more story of blood and murder I will relate, and then close the calendar of murders.  As I was sitting in the parlor, one day, I saw the people in the street all running towards the front of the hotel.  I stepped out upon the balcony to ascertain the cause of this unusual excitement, and beheld a sight that almost curdled the blood in my veins.  There lay the form of a man, dead.  His clothes were saturated with blood; his ghastly face upturned; and upon his death-stamped features rested a look of mortal agony.  It was the body of one well known in our midst.  He was coming from one of the mining bars above Marysville, driving a mule-team, when he was accosted by a man whom he overtook on the road with a request to give him a ride; which request he accordingly granted.  The stranger jumped into the wagon, and took a seat behind the teamster.  They conversed as they rode along, until they came to an unfrequented part of the road, when the stranger suddenly plunged a knife into the body of the teamster.  It was a murderous blow, and carried death in its unerring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Many more murders, equally revolting, I might recount; but I have told enough to give one an idea of the crime existing at that time in California.  I need not say, at that time; it still exists, and, I fear, ever will.  Vigilance committees may, for a while, intimidate the blood-thirsty villains; but they can never rid the country of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
065.sgm:<P>Early in the year 1849, an enterprising, energetic young man, left the town of D--, situated in one of the Western States, to seek his fortune in California.  He was already in possession of a sum sufficient to defray his expenses to those golden shores, which held forth so many charms to an adventurous spirit, leaving but little remaining in his purse upon his arrival.</P>
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065.sgm:<P>Glittering visions of lumps of gold haunted his waking, as well as sleeping, moments.  He was restless and impatient, until he found himself bounding gayly over the wild, heaving billows of the broad Atlantic.  Being an orphan, deprived, at an early age, of the watchful tenderness of a mother's love, the judicious precepts and examples of a father, he had learned early in life the salutary lesson of self-reliance.  No sad yearnings filled his heart, as he paced the steamer's deck on the eve of departure.  The delights and social joys of a pleasant home left behind, the remembrance of a loving mother's tearful farewell, rose not in his mind, to cause the tear of affection and regret to bedew his cheek.  He was leaving none behind to mourn his departure.  To him the future looked bright and beautiful, as it ever does to the young, hopeful, and aspiring heart, over which the chilling waves and bitter disappointments of the cold, selfish world has never rolled.</P>
065.sgm:<P>There was one passenger on board, who, from his taciturn, repulsive manner, had made no friends, and formed no acquaintances.  A few days before their arrival at Chagres, he was missed from his accustomed seat at table.  He no more paced the deck with that quick, uncertain tread, ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>They reached the isthmus of Panama.  All were hastening to secure their passage upon the steamer then waiting at Panama to convey them to their destined port.  Each and all were struggling for themselves.  The party to which the hero of my story had attached himself were toiling on their "winding way," when their attention was attracted to a hammock, suspended between two trees, in which, to all appearance, lay a man in the agonies of death.  They hastened to his side, and discovered, to their surprise, the repulsive stranger of steamer memory.  In a feeble voice, he besought them, in mercy, to take him along, and not leave him to die alone!  It appeared he had employed some natives to take him across the isthmus.  They had quarrelled among themselves, purloined the last dollar from the sick man, (Mr. B--,) and vamosed, leaving him to the fate which was inevitable, unless he was assisted and provided for immediately.  The hot fever-blood was coursing wildly through his swollen veins; yet there was but one, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>As some extenuation for the apparently heartless course pursued by all that company of emigrants, (all except one,) I will state their relative circumstances.  They had purchased their tickets at an exorbitant price, with perhaps the last dollar at their command.  The steamer was waiting; time was pressing; at such a day she was going to leave Panama, and, if not there, they lost their passage.  Panama was crowded with people, waiting to get even a foothold upon the deck of any floating craft that would bear them to the desired haven.  The delay that must necessarily accrue from assisting that suffering person would, in all probability, cost them their passage, and they would be left penniless in a foreign land.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The call of suffering humanity was counterbalanced by the whisperings of self.  They soliloquized, and hushed the breathings of conscience with thoughts like these: "I must look to my own interest.  No one would lend a helping hand to raise <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
065.sgm:, if I were sinking.  He did not make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:friends with us when in health and prosperity; but now, when he is dying, he calls for succor from those he formerly shunned.  I cannot assist him.  He will probably die before night.  I must hurry on."  So they did hurry on, all except Mr. W--.  <HI REND="italics">His</HI>
065.sgm: heart was boiling over with the "milk of human kindness."  Said he, "If I go on, and leave this man to die alone, the image of his pale, sad face will be ever by my side.  The memory of my heartless conduct will cast a dark shade over my whole future existence.  I <HI REND="italics">cannot</HI>
065.sgm: and I <HI REND="italics">will not</HI>
065.sgm:<P>In a softened voice he addressed the now nearly unconscious man, and, taking the feverish hand in his, said he, "Cease your anxiety.  I will stay with you, and take care of you."  One by one, he saw all his company depart; and he was alone with the sick one, in the unbroken solitudes of a Granadian forest.  He held a flask of water to the lips of the sufferer, and bathed his fevered brow.  This somewhat revived him.  Hours passed on, and they were still alone.  Finally, two Carthaginians came along, and were induced, by the promise of a liberal reward, to carry the sick man to Panama.  After a toilsome journey, which well-nigh proved fatal to Mr. B--, they arrived at Panama, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:were too late for the steamer: she had been gone nearly a day.  There was no alternative but to wait until they could secure a passage upon another.  Mr. W--'s funds were fast dwindling away before the exorbitant demands of the Panama "land-sharks."  Who, among those who were compelled to remain there days and weeks, when the tide of emigration was rushing irresistibly on towards the far-famed gold placers of California, can <HI REND="italics">ever</HI>
065.sgm:<P>When able to converse, the invalid informed Mr. W-- that he had a valuable cargo on board a vessel then on her way around Cape Horn; and that, upon her arrival at San Francisco, in part payment of the debt of gratitude he owed to him, he (Mr. W--) should receive a share of the profits derived from the sale thereof.  He also spoke of a failure in business which had occurred a short time previous to his departure; but omitted to mention, however, the fact that he had acted very dishonestly as regarded that failure, and also that he had been very unceremoniously smuggled on board the steamer, to elude the bigilance of officers of justice.  He expected his wife to join him soon in California: perhaps she might come on the next steamer.</P>
065.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>They were detained in Panama four weeks, during which time he was carefully nursed by Mr. W--.  In the meantime, his wife arrived, with money sufficient to purchase a ticket for her husband.  Mr. W-- had not the wherewithal to purchase one; therefore, he procured a situation as waiter on board.  Upon their arrival at San Francisco, as the ship was not due for some two months, Mr. W-- concluded to proceed at once to the mines.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Every day, at that time, might have been seen little companies of men, with their blankets and tin pans strapped to their backs, commencing their toilsome march into the interior.  Far up those mighty streams they wandered, and penetrated far into the solitary fastnesses of those mountain gorges, where the foot of white man never trod before.  Forming one of a party of miners who followed the course of the American River, was our friend W--.  For three weary months they prospected in those dreary wilds, camping out, rolling themselves in their blankets, with no roof to shelter them from the night air.  The twinkling stars, far, far above them, peeping out a gentle good-night from the azure dome, were like messengers of hope to those poor wayfarers.  Sickness overtook them, and death <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>For many weeks he lay hovering at the portal of death's mysterious door.  Finally, a strong constitution triumphed: this once, the destroying angel was cheated of its prey.  He recovered slowly, and, at the expiration of many weeks, found himself treading the streets of San Francisco, weak, penniless, and alone--alone, in a land of strangers.  He bethought himself of Mr. B--, made inquiries concerning him, and ascertained that the ship had arrived which had contained his property; that he had disposed of it at an immense profit, and had gone to reside in Sacramento city.  Slowly and painfully he dragged his weakened frame to one of the piers from whence departed the up-river boats, and gained a hearing with one of the captains, to whom he stated his situation.  He very kindly gave him a passage to "Sac' city."  When landed upon the Levee, it was mid-day.  So weak was he, that it was late in the afternoon before he reached <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Imagine his feelings as he turned from that door, sick in body, and sicker far at heart at this display of sordid selfishness and heartless ingratitude.  He crawled back again to the Levee, where he remained that night, supperless, shelterless, and penniless.  He again solicited a passage to Marysville, where resided an acquaintance of his who kept a hotel.  To him he applied for a situation to work; for, sick as he was, his independent spirit spurned the idea of begging.  He was at once engaged to wash dishes; for which service he received seventy-five dollars per month.  After serving awhile in this capacity, he was promoted to steward, with an increase of salary.  From this post he was admitted as a partner; and, from that day, "Dame Fortune" lavished upon him her richest gifts.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Just three years from the time he composed his wearied limbs for a night's rest, in the open air, on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Curiosity prompted him to inquire after the welfare of Mr. B--.  He learned he was a houseless vagabond around the streets of San Francisco.  From affluence, he was reduced to a state of beggary.  His wife had proved faithless, and decamped with all the money she could get.  In endeavoring to drown his sorrow in the intoxicating cup, he had lost, dollar by dollar, the remainder of his fortune.  That for which he had sacrificed honor, principle, and every trait which ennobles and exalts man, had "taken to itself wings," and the misguided man was bereft of all which renders life a blessing.  From this "ower true" tale may be deduced a moral.</P>
065.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>IN the fall of 1852, my brother was in the mines, on the north fork of the Yuba, about one hundred miles above Marysville.  As the rainy season was commencing, and knowing his claims to be on the river, where they could not be worked except in the dry season, I was daily expecting him to arrive in Marysville, as he had written to that effect; yet he came not.  Daily I heard accounts of large quantities of snow falling; and it finally fell to such a depth, that all communication with the settlements in the mountains was cut off before the winter's supply of provisions had been transported thither.  Fears were entertained that the mountain population would suffer incredibly for the want of food; and so they did.  Finally, a straggling, emaciated, exhausted party arrived in town from Downieville, which is eighty miles distant from Marysville.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Fifty miles of the route they had traversed over snow, which lay to the depth of ten and fifteen feet, and part of the time sinking, at every step, up to their arm-pits in it.  Two or three of their number had given out and died on the way.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>What anxiety I felt on my brother's account, knowing that he must depend upon Downieville for his supplies!  No tidings whatever could I obtain of him, and did not for four months.  During this time, remnants of parties were arriving, completely exhausted, and reporting great distress in the mountains.  At the expiration of that time, the express-men opened for themselves a passage through the snow.  Then I received a letter, stating the following particulars:</P>
065.sgm:<P>He had made every preparation for leaving his log cabin as soon as there was any appearance of snow, when one of his partners (he had two) was violently seized with the mountain fever.  Then came the first fall of snow.  What could they do?  They could not leave him to die alone, and it was impossible to move him.  For one month he was constantly delirious.  He had no physician to attend him, and there he lay, day and night, talking to his mother and friends at home, in happy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Downieville was twenty miles distant, and thither one of them must go to obtain provisions; for they were entirely destitute of everything in the eatable line, and almost destitute of money. They had sent their gold to Marysville the day before the partner was taken sick, reserving only sufficient to defray their expenses down.</P>
065.sgm:<P>My brother started to go to Downieville, previously assisting his partner to tie the sick man on to his pallet of straw; for, in moments of violent delirium, one person could not compete with him in strength.</P>
065.sgm:<P>In an exhausted state he reached Downieville, and found provisions very scarce, and dear as gold dust.  For ham he paid eighty cents per pound; for flour, one dollar and a half per pound; and everything in a like proportion.  For one ten pounds of flour, which he bought during the winter, he paid twenty-five dollars.  He wanted to get some corn meal to make gruel for the sick man, and succeeded in getting one pound, for which he paid the exorbitant sum of two dollars.</P>
065.sgm:<P>With a back-load of provisions--which weighed sixty-one pounds, and cost one hundred dollars--he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>"I then started again for Downieville, so hungry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>"Thus we lived on for four long, weary months.  The fever settled in the sick man's toes, and they all decayed.  Finally, he began to convalesce; but it was six months from the time he was taken with the fever before he was able to walk.  How grateful he felt to us, who had almost sacrificed our lives to stay by and nurse him!  He would cry, and say, `If I am ever worth a fortune, you shall share it with me.'  Before I left the country, he had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>"During all these winter months, we never shot but one deer; and then we feasted!  The snow lay to such a depth, we could not go hunting; and game was very scarce, too.</P>
065.sgm:<P>"The provisions which we consumed during three months amounted to five hundred dollars, and then never had as much as would satisfy our appetites at any one meal."</P>
065.sgm:<P>My brother described the snow-slides in the mountains as grand and frightful.  A body of snow would commence rolling at the summit of a mountain, collecting and increasing in size as it rolled, until it came with such velocity, and in such a mass, that it would snap off large trees in its descent as easily as if they had been whip-sticks.  One could hear the rushing, roaring sound it made, for miles.  It is necessary to build their cabins in such a position that they will not be in danger of annihilation from these slides.  Cabins have been swept away, and the inmates killed, by snow-slides.</P>
065.sgm:<P>As soon as the rocks around the cabin began to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>A lady once told me, who had lived in the mountains, that every day, after her housework was done up, she would take her crevicing-spoon, and go out among the rocks searching for gold.  She resided there one year, and, during that time, had collected five hundred dollars in that way.</P>
065.sgm:<P>When the spring opened, my brother concluded to remain through the dry season, and for eighteen months he was a dweller in those mountain solitudes, and not once during that time visiting the valley.  In his rambles, one day, he found the skeleton of a human being.  What sad reflections the sight of those bones called up!  He dug a grave, and buried them.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The grisly bears were quite plenty around them; and one day, while they were out mining, "Old Bruin" made a descent into their cabin, helping himself to everything the place contained, and overturning tin pans, pots, and kettles, and everything within his reach.  He swallowed all their butter, for which they had paid one dollar and a half per pound, and marched off, no doubt delighted with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>At one time an old hunter came to their cabin with his dog, and reported himself to be very expert at killing grislys.  They took their guns, and accompanied him.  They soon routed an enormously large bear, whose roar seemed to shake the earth.  He first turned his attention to the dog, which appeared terribly frightened, and ran away as fast as his legs would carry him.  Then he turned upon the brave hunters, who quickly followed the example of the dog.  They fled to some tall trees,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>At one time, he was mining on Can&tilde;on Creek, and had occasion to cross the mountains to Slate Range.  Many of these mountains are perennially covered with snow.  When travelling in the mountains, clothes more than you have on your back are burdensome and unnecessary.</P>
065.sgm:<P>After going a short distance from the camp, he hung an overcoat on the limb of a tree, set his carpet-bag at the foot of it, and buried what gold he had with him at a short distance from the tree, carefully noting the spot.  He then pursued his journey.  Upon arriving at his destination, his mining operations detained him there eight months.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>At one time, in company with two or three others, started to go from one mining locality to another.  They were obliged to camp out for four nights upon the snow; and in some of the deep ravines, which were filled by the sliding of the snow into them, they judged it to be at least fifty feet in depth.  Nights, they would roll themselves in their blankets, and lie down upon the snow, with nought above them but the blue dome of the star-lighted heavens, and sleep as soundly, and be visited by dreams as sweet, as ever blessed their midnight slumbers in nicely carpeted chambers, on beds of down.</P>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>Before I leave California, I must give you a sketch of John Chinaman,--not the Johns in general, but a particular John, who lived in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:Tremont Hotel as a chamber servant for more than a year.  He could talk good broken English, was quick in his motions, and very neat.  I liked John better than any other of the chamber servants, he was so faithful.  Often I would be so amused at his remarks, that I would have to stop, and laugh heartily.  Then he would look <HI REND="italics">so</HI>
065.sgm:<P>He had been in California four years, during all of which time he had been out to service, never receiving less than one hundred dollars per month.  He had about three thousand dollars out at interest, for which he received three per cent. a month.  He was very penurious, never indulging in any luxury, save most excellent tea, which he kept for his own private use.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Sometimes, when I would be sick, he would come to my door, bringing a cup of his tea, and say, "You drinkee this, Missa Bessa; make you well quick."  He placed implicit faith in the healing properties of his tea.</P>
065.sgm:<P>His money, his tea, and his cue were his especial delight. Days when he would have a great deal to do, engaging his time until late in the evening,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Upon first arriving in California, he went as house servant to Senator Gwin.  Afterwards, he lived with a Mr. Peck.  He would say sometimes, "Only three very good ladees in Californee."--"Who are those, John?"--"Missa Gwina, Missa Pecka, and Missa Bessa. Missa Gwina, she one very good ladee; she talkee, laughee, all day long, eat watermelon, drink champagne; she one very good ladee."  John seemed to estimate the qualifications of Mrs. Gwin by the quantity of good and expensive things which she ate and drank. Watermelons were twelve dollars apiece, and champagne ten dollars per bottle.  Then he would say, "Missa Pecka one very good ladee, but she too fatter.  Missa Bessa, she no too fatter; she too smallee, too sickee (sometimes I would have ill turns); she go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>One day, he was very unceremoniously rushed into matrimony.  The particulars of this hurried marriage were as follows: John was one day passing along one of the streets occupied mostly by Chinese, when his ears were assailed with horrid screams which issued from a building near by.  He burst in the door, which was fastened, and there found a Canton Chinaman unmercifully beating one of his slaves, a young girl of about sixteen years.  John, who was very tender-hearted, could not bear to see that; so he knocked down the Chinaman, took the girl, whom he never saw until then, and ran with her to the hotel, and wanted me to secrete her in my room.  It appears there is an almost deadly feud existing between the Canton and Ningpo Chinamen.  As soon as the Canton Chinaman recovered himself sufficiently to realize what had happened, he collected about thirty of his partisans, and started to arrest John for assaulting him, and carrying off his slave.</P>
065.sgm:<P>This was apprehended by the people at the hotel, who all felt very much interested for John.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>They were married before her master found her; and therefore he never recovered his slave.  John had a small house in the back yard of the hotel, and in it he placed his wife.  She was not domestic at all, and there she sat with her hands folded, when not engaged in embroidering.  And there I left them when I started for the States.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Most of the washing and ironing in California is performed by Chinamen.  They take the clothes to the rivers, and beat them on stones and boards, which they place in particular positions.  Their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>They have a dish of water standing beside them, to which they put their mouths, and draw up such a quantity of the water, that their cheeks are inflated to their utmost capacity.  All the while they are shoving this vessel back and forth, they are blowing the water out of their mouths, which falls like spray upon the garment, and renders it of an equal dampness.  They iron very smoothly, and the clothes have a beautiful polish.  For ironing dresses, they have differently shaped sauce-pans.  They wear out the clothes very much beating them so; and it is almost dangerous to stand in the vicinity of their washing resorts, the shirt-buttons fly so like hail-stones.</P>
065.sgm:<P>There is a place, a little out from San Francisco, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>A short time before I left Marysville, the city was visited by another conflagration, which came very near destroying the Tremont Hotel.  It occurred between ten and eleven o'clock, one Sunday.  The fire originated in the square directly opposite the hotel; and, what wind there was being fair to bring it directly to the house, the greatest consternation prevailed.  The ladies were all dressed to attend church.  They commenced packing their things, and throwing them out the doors and windows.  The proprietor ordered every woollen blanket in the house to be produced, wet thoroughly,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>While this was going on outside, the people were rushing in, and removing beds and furniture.  In their haste to remove large pieces, they tore down partitions, and otherwise injured the house; breaking out windows, sash and all, to eject some piece of furniture.  Individuals who had been boarding in the house, and had not deposited their money in the safe, ran to their trunks, took it out, and gave it to me for safe keeping.  I had my pockets so filled with gold and gold dust, it was really burthensome to move about.  The most valuable things were removed out on the plains, and I stood guard over them; for they required strict watching, there were so many standing round, ready to take anything they could lay their hands upon.  Several times the roof of the hotel was on fire; but, by the strenuous exertions of the people, it was extinguished.  The flames were darting over and around it, yet the building was preserved, at the risk, almost, of their own lives.  The proprietor's face was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>IN the spring of 1854, I bade adieu to Marysville, and started for San Francisco, preparatory to leaving for the Atlantic States.  Three years previously, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>I was borne down those magnificent streams for the last time; yet every object is distinctly daguerreotyped in my mind as I saw it then.  Yes!  I bade all those scenes a final adieu; and would that I could have bade farewell to heart-troubles also.  But how tenaciously they will gather around the fountain of memory, ever ready to spring to the surface, at the mention of some name, or half-forgotten word either of kindness or reproof!  It was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>That day, three steamers left that wharf, within an hour of each other, for the Atlantic States,--the "Uncle Sam," the "Panama," and the "Cortez."  I went on board the "Uncle Sam."  She was the last to leave, and was crowded with passengers: she had on board about eight hundred people.</P>
065.sgm:<P>When the gun was fired,--the signal for departure,--as the echo reverberated over the waters, I fancied it to be one unanimous farewell emanating from the breasts of all on board,--a farewell to the sunny vales and towering mountains, to the gold-studded placers and majestic streams, the deep ravines and rocky can&tilde;ons, of beloved California.</P>
065.sgm:<P>What different emotions swelled the bosoms of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Some were returning, from a residence in that city and country, to their Eastern homes, blessed with an abundance of the shining metal which had lured them to its shores, and perhaps entirely destitute of all those principles of virtue and honesty that ever shed a brilliant lustre over the human mind, and give to the humble, indigent, and sorrow-stricken, a passport to a happy home above.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The possession of wealth does not necessarily pervert the human heart; and yet how often do we see the possessor utterly regardless of the feelings of the worthy poor!  Wealth too often takes the precedence of intellect; and many times we have seen the gifted mind struggling through years of poverty, uncheered by even an encouraging word <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>AFTER passing out at the Golden Gate, all three of the steamers were visible, each freighted with a rich cargo of human beings, and cleaving for themselves a pathway through the blue waters.  The "Uncle Sam" and "Panama" were bound direct to Panama; the "Cortez" to San Juan.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The first night out on board a crowded steamer!  Who that has experienced it can <HI REND="italics">ever</HI>
065.sgm:<P>For a person like myself, who was not sea-sick, and had no babies to worry about, and had only to enact the part of a silent spectator, the Babel-like confusion which reigned triumphant only served to divert my mind from my own sad thoughts, and I began to study the characters of my room-mates, through the science of physiognomy.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The back of the sofa could be lifted up, so as to form a sort of shelf over the seat.  This shelf, directly over the person who was lying upon the sofa, would be decidedly disagreeable and uncomfortable.  The mother planned for that great boy to sleep upon this shelf, directly over me.  To this I, of course, objected, knowing that he had a berth provided for him in the second cabin.  Upon my objecting, the mother became determined that he <HI REND="italics">should</HI>
065.sgm: sleep there.  I then appealed to the young man, asking him if he thought it would be very agreeable to lodge in a little state-room, with three ladies, a baby, and a parrot.  He acknowledged it would not, and refused to comply with his mother's commands.  Therefore, I got rid of him; which by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The married daughter was a very lady-like, genteel sort of a person, totally dissimilar from her mother, and rather a victim to her (the mother's) dictatorial propensities.  The adopted daughter was one of those good-natured, immovable sort of persons, always pleasant, yet doing about as she pleased, although receiving a severe reprimand every five minutes in the day from the old lady.  The baby was a little darling, inheriting his mother's gentle disposition.  The parrot was not a whit more quiet than its mistress.  As soon as day began to break, he would begin to scream, after this fashion: "Come to breakfast;" "Six o'clock;" "Hot coffee;" "Mother! mother!" and such like expressions.  If it was amusing at first, it soon became very annoying.  There was one parrot on board so exceedingly profane and annoying, that its life was several times threatened by the passengers who roomed in close proximity to it.  The woman to whom it belonged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:valued it above price.  It could speak the English and Spanish languages quite <HI REND="italics">fluently</HI>
065.sgm:<P>After we had been at sea a few days, the weather, which had been agreeably cool, changed to oppressive heat.  The air in those little state-rooms was so confined and unhealthy, it behooved those who were able, to rise early in the morning, and go upon deck to inhale the balmy air.  But, then, it was rather unpleasant to be hunted about as we were by the sailors, who were washing down the decks.  We would perch ourselves upon something; and then, just as we were congratulating one another upon securing a nice seat, swash would come the water in torrents, compelling us to run for another seat, which would only afford us a similar temporary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>There were two or three female cabin passengers very sick with fever; and, oh, how they suffered, confined in a close state-room, with a raging fever consuming their very vitals!</P>
065.sgm:<P>One of the greatest sufferers was a lady who had been brought on board on a bed.  She was dying of consumption.  She was sick at home, and her physician had recommended a voyage to California.  Thinking she might receive some benefit from a residence in that salubrious climate, her husband had taken her there.  She had not remained there long, before she felt convinced that she must die.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The morning sun rose fair, but it shone upon a death-stamped countenance--upon loving lips forever silent--upon the cold hand which gave no returning pressure.  She had passed away, with the names of her darlings upon her lips.</P>
065.sgm:<P>As the sun was sinking into the western waters, the steamer's course was stayed.  The body of the devoted wife and loving mother was borne upon deck, covered by the American flag.  Near by stood the bereaved husband, whose heart seemed wrung with the keenest sorrow.  The stillness of death reigned on board that crowded steamer.  In calm, serene accents, a minister of Christ breathed forth an earnest, heart-felt prayer; and the remains were launched into the bosom of the restless ocean.  A splash, and all was over.  The waves which had parted to receive that form of clay continued their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>If the spirits of departed friends are conversant with our spirits, if they are indeed ministering angels to those whom they loved while in the flesh, the midnight slumbers of those motherless babes that night were blessed and sanctified by the seraphic presence of the beatified mother.  In their infant dreams, it is the knowledge of her presence which causes those radiant smiles to flit across their fair, innocent faces.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Dear children!  Many a tear of sympathy was dropped at the thought of their uncertain future, as the revolving wheels of the steamer carried us farther and farther from their mother's grave, which they could never look upon!</P>
065.sgm:<P>In a little while, all was gayety and mirth, bustle and confusion, singing and dancing, on board that floating structure.  This being my first voyage after the eventful fiery one, my feelings were constantly agitated, thinking it possible a recurrence of those former scenes might be enacted.  There were some on board who were acquainted with the history of my voyage out to California;<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>One night, while seated in the door of my stateroom, I was very much amused at the remarks passed between two of the sailors, who were laying down hose upon the deck, as was the usual custom, as a precaution against fire.  Says one, "Dick, what are you laying that extra hose for?"  "Why," said he, "didn't you know there is a woman on board who never went to sea but what the ship she was on board of burnt before reaching her destination?"--"There isn't, though."--"Yes, there is; and I haven't the least idea the Uncle Sam will ever reach Panama."--"Have you seen her?  How does she look?"--"I don't exactly know which one it is; but they say she looks just like any other woman."  Thus the conversation continued for some time, to my great amusement.  But the spell was broken; the startling cry of "Fire!" was not heard; and no event of importance occured, by which the nerves of the most sensitive could be shocked.</P>
065.sgm:<P>We had two more burials at sea before reaching Panama.  They were two firemen, who dropped dead while at their posts of duty, during the excessively hot weather.</P>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>After twelve days and some hours' sail from San Francisco, the old, walled city of Panama rose to view.  The steamer's gun was fired; she dropped her anchor; and a fleet of boats and bungoes were seen approaching.  They neared and surrounded the ship.  Most or all of them were manned by swarthy-visaged, half-naked Carthaginians, and a mongrel race of natives, whose appearance and gestures were equally as repulsive.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Such a perfect Babel as that steamer's deck presented!  Some running to and fro, looking for baggage, some bargaining and bantering with the boatmen, boatmen fighting with one another for a berth next the gangways, ladies screaming at the top of their voices, children bawling in unison, and parrots joining in the chorus!  Curses and oaths, singing and shouting, filled up the intervals of this hurly-burly scene.  I stood agape with astonishment at witnessing the haste and recklessness with which they rushed, helter-skelter, down the gang-ways, and tumbled (some of them headlong) into the boats.  More than one individual I saw floundering in the water; and carpet-bags and valises were floating about quite merrily.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>I was determined to wait until the last, rather than go with such a rush; and I did wait, until the coast was clear.  Then our party, which consisted of four or five ladies and gentlemen, secured seats in a boat, and bade good bye to the Uncle Sam.  We had gone but a short distance from the ship, when we heard the report of a gun booming over the water.  The steamer Panama, which left in company with us, had arrived.  She had about five hundred passengers on board; and, with the eight hundred who had just left the Uncle Sam, the hotels in Panama would be likely to be rather crowded.  It behooved us to hasten, in order to secure a place on the floor, if nowhere else.</P>
065.sgm:<P>As we neared the shore, the water was full of natives, who waded off almost up to their necks, surrounded the boat, and arrested its progress.  The boatmen are agreed with the natives on the shore to manage thus, in order to secure as many pieces of money as possible.  No entreaties or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:threats could induce the boatmen to budge one inch nearer to the shore.  There was no alternative but to place ourselves upon the backs of these natives, and (as the expression is) ride post-back to the shore.  Before placing ourselves in this rather unladylike position, there was much screaming, and laughing, and crying, and scolding; but it all terminated in one general post-back ride to the shore.  The natives being so submerged, one could not judge well of their muscular developments; and some of the more corpulent ladies were afraid to trust their immense proportions on the back of a slender native, for fear of being dropped.  This accident did happen to some of them; and it was ever accompanied with much laughing and joking at the sufferer's expense.  Finally, we were all landed,--some in one shape, and some in another.  More than a dozen natives surrounded me, all holding their hands for a bit, (ten cents,) each claiming the honor of having carried me on his back to the shore.  They all bore such a striking resemblance to one another, and having on no garments by which they could be distinguished, I was sorely troubled to know to whom I was indebted for my novel ride.  It was settled, however, to their satisfaction.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>This was in the afternoon, and our appetites were considerably sharpened by the rather scantily furnished tables which had been spread on board the steamer for one or two days previous to our arrival.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Six or seven of us ladies were shown to a room on the second floor, which overlooked the courtyard in the centre of the range of buildings.  Each story was surrounded by a balcony.  Our room had no windows, but two very extensive doors, which opened like folding-doors on to the balcony.  The partitions all through the house only ran two thirds of the height to the ceiling; so there was plenty of ventilation and plenty of noise circulating through the house.  There was not a particle of paint or paper in the whole building.  The walls and partitions were of rough boards, and these were all whitewashed.  The great vaulted passages leading through the house, and the great wide, worn staircases, presented a cheerless and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>From the balcony opposite our door we could watch the proceedings in the cook-room; and it was amusing to watch those half-naked natives knock over the fowl, of which there were numbers in the back yard, about half-divest them of their feathers, hurry them into a kettle, and by the time they were well heated through, run with them to the tables, if they were not met on the way there by the half-famished passengers, who would snatch the half-cooked viands from their hands, and beat a hasty retreat to their rooms.</P>
065.sgm:<P>In vain we waited to be summoned to supper.  Finally, one of our party made a descent upon the cooks, and procured the wherewith to appease, in a measure, our hunger.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The Uncle Sam's passengers had intended to get mules, and start that night from Panama to cross the isthmus; and this could have been accomplished, had not the natives been so shrewd.  When they saw the steamer Panama coming in directly after the Uncle Sam, they rightly conjectured, that,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>I saw in some places the ruins of old churches and convents.  Some portions of the high stone walls would be standing, out of the sides of which were growing bushes and small trees.  The sight of those trees growing out of high stone walls at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:once attracted my attention.  For how many ages must those old walls have been exposed to burning suns and deluging rains, to have thus afforded sustenance for those scraggy shrubs and trees!  The stones were all moss-grown, and rank vines were running in great profusion over the decaying ruins.  An air of silent desertion seemed to pervadethose ruinous remains, which gave rise to melancholy reflections.  They forcibly reminded one of the mutability of all things earthly.  Just as the setting sun was casting its red beams upon the high and narrow stained-glass windows of the rich old cathedral, we were wandering under its vaulted roof, feasting our astonished senses with a sight of the massive gold and silver ornaments which were displayed in such rich profusion upon the walls.  What an air of mystery and gloom seemed to surround us!  How our voices echoed and reverberated in the far-off niches and recesses of this gloomy-looking edifice.  Several times I was startled by the appearance of some old monk, with his cowl closely drawn, who would start from some niche in the wall, where he had remained unperceived and, without uttering a word, hold out a silver plate, whereupon you were expected to deposit a piece of money.  When once more in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>We then repaired to the vestibule of a convent, not with the expectation of gaining admittance, however.  There was a wooden frame which turned in the wall, after the manner of those yard-gates which turn upon a pivot, and on which stood a pitcher of water and a glass.  After drinking, a person is expected to leave a piece of money beside the pitcher.  Every few moments, this frame is turned by an unseen hand; but, when the pitcher and glass appear again, the money, if there had been any beside it, had disappeared.</P>
065.sgm:<P>It being a moonlight evening, several of us ladies, accompanied by one gentleman, started to prosecute our walk through some other parts of the city.  We passed through several streets, or, as they appeared to me, lanes; but they looked <HI REND="italics">so</HI>
065.sgm:<P>What a night was that at Panama!  So many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>As soon as daylight dawned, the natives began to swarm in the streets with their mules, opposite to the hotels, and the people commenced bargaining for the use of them.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The railroad was completed from Aspinwall to within eighteen miles of Panama.  Eighteen miles!  When we came to traverse the route, it seemed thirty, at least.  As the rains had commenced, we were advised to travel the Cruces route, as the Gorgorna route would be impassable on account of the mud.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Some of the passengers who had before traversed the Cruces route advised all the ladies to dispense with the side-saddle altogether, as it would be utterly impossible for them to retain their seats, unless upon the gentleman's Spanish saddle.  Most of us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The natives asked twenty dollars for the use of a good, plump-looking mule, to take us to Obispo, at which place was the terminus of the railroad; but one could get a miserable-looking animal, which, in all probability, would die on the way, and leave you to prosecute the remainder of your journey on foot, for twelve and fifteen dollars.  For my mule I paid twenty; and, many times during the journey, I had occasion to congratulate myself for having secured such a gentle, kind, serviceable little animal.  I really became so attached to him during the journey, that I parted from him with regret.  Generally, the natives from whom you hire your mules, and pay for them in advance, trot along with the company, and are ready, upon your arrival, to take the animal.</P>
065.sgm:<P>There was great frolicking and laughing with the ladies while fixing away on the mules.  I shall never forget <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
065.sgm:<P>About five o'clock in the morning, I left the hotel, in company with thirty or more of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>One of our passengers (a widow lady, with two little children) was very sick indeed when she arrived at Panama.  She was advised to remain there for the present; but, although she felt convinced that her days on earth were numbered, she preferred to go on with the company.  She was placed in a hammock: each of her little children (one twelve months, and the other three years) were carried on the backs of natives, who walked by her side.</P>
065.sgm:<P>When only six miles out from Panama, she breathed her last-drawn sigh.  They stopped, dug a grave for the mother by the lonely way-side, and deposited her remains therein.  It was a sad spectacle. Well was it for those little orphans that their extreme youth prevented them from realizing the extent of their affliction.</P>
065.sgm:<P>A kind-hearted woman--although the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Two others of our number died, and were buried on the way. One was a gentleman whose mule had died, and he was footing it along, when he suddenly fell, and expired.  Probably his death was caused by disease of the heart.  One steerage passenger, who was walking across, died from overheating himself.</P>
065.sgm:<P>For the distance of six miles, our route lay over a good, paved road, and we galloped along, exceedingly delighted with the scenery, our mules, and the good road.  "If this is crossing the Isthmus," said one, "I shall never believe again the horrid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>The scenery through the mountains almost defies description.  There are defiles through the solid rock, so narrow as to admit only one mule at a time; while, on each side, the rocks rise to the height of fifteen, twenty, and, in some places, thirty feet.  These rocks are surmounted by tall trees, whose dense foliage, blending overhead, completely excludes the sight of the blue sky above.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Sometimes these narrow passes are so descending, as to render it almost impossible to retain your seat upon the mule.  In some places there are regular stepping-stones, into each of which little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Those mules are so careful and sure-footed, and so well accustomedto travelling through those frightful places, that there is no necessity whatever of guiding them.  You have only to place the bridle over the pommel of the saddle, (those Spanish saddles have a high pommel in front,) and look out for yourself.  In descending, we were obliged to lean far back on the animal's back, and grasp the crupper with all our might.  It seemed as if our safety depended solely upon the strength of the crupper.  How I cried sometimes, with fright!  but then I was careful not to let any one see me, and generally took the time for such ebullition of feeling when it was raining hard, and the water would unavoidably be coursing down my face.</P>
065.sgm:<P>How careful those mules were!  That day I learned to love them.  In going down those rocky flights, they would hold their heads low down, then put one foot over and plant it firmly in one of those little holes, then the other in the same way, then bring their hind feet on to the same shelf,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Once, as there were about fifty mules all in a line, ascending one of those steep mountain passes, the one in advance, which was laden with three large trunks, made a misstep, and fell.  These animals are so sure-footed that they never stumble except when giving out, and never fall, unless to die.  This one was very weak, and failing fast, but might have succeeded in reaching the top of this dangerous pass, had not the trunks swayed on one side, and hit the rocks, thereby causing him to fall.  When passing up those rocky flights, it is utterly impossible for a mule to step backwards, off one of those shelves, without falling, and as utterly impossible to turn the mule about, on account of the extreme narrowness of the way.  The fallen mule, in making desperate attempts to rise with those heavy trunks lashed to him, as a natural consequence kept falling back, thereby crowding hard upon those behind him.  I was seated on the fifth mule in the rear of the fallen one.  Such a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>How firmly my little mule planted his feet upon the shelf he was on, rounded himself into as small a compass as possible, and awaited his fate.  He seemed to comprehend the whole; and, by his looks, I fancied he said, as a token of assurance to me, "I will die here rather than take one step backwards."  Finally they disengaged the trunks from the animal, and hoisted them up on to the banks above.  As the mule was evidently dying, they cut his throat, and lifted him up also.  This scene detained us more than an hour; for those natives seemed to make no progress towards extricating the mule from his painful position, but were running to and fro, bawling at the top of their voices, hunting ropes, and ordering one another.  The passengers who were far behind were calling loudly to know what was the cause of the detention.  Some were cursing the tardy natives; the women were crying with fear; and, if a daguerreotype view could have been taken of the scene, I think it would have had a tendency to deter some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Upon entering one of those defiles, the natives who are on foot (and there are generally quite a number with each party) go in advance, and keep up a loud shouting, to prevent any party which may be coming in an opposite direction from entering, as it would be death to one or other of the parties' mules, should they meet.  We occasionally passed over the carcasses of mules in these places, which had been killed to afford others a passage.  We were so fearful that the natives would not make noise enough, that we joined in the shouting, and felt truly grateful when we emerged from the bowels of the earth.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The day previous to our arrival at Panama, the steamer Illinois arrived at Aspinwall, with a load of passengers from New York for California.  In crossing, we all met at different points on the way.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Sometimes, upon arriving at a defile, we would hear a loud shouting within; then we would halt, rein our mules out on each side of the way, and await their egress.  Some, upon emerging from the defile, looked very much jaded and fatigued; others were laughing and joking.  How earnestly we eyed them, as they appeared one after another,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Upon thus meeting, each party would accost the other with all the freedom and familiarity of old acquaintances; and some of the remarks which were passed were really laughable.  Upon the back of one mule were seated two persons, a young man and an elderly woman.  At sight of them, some of the gentlemen of our party hurrahed, which was answered by the woman with a wave of her calash, (she wore one of those large old-fashioned green ones,) and a "Hurrah for California!"  "That is right," said one, addressing the young man, "take your mother with you; if we had, we might have been spared much suffering."  And thus they joked.  Some who had been rather unsuccessful advised the emigrants to turn back, even then.  "Why?"  said they, "is there not plenty of gold in California?"  "Yes, there is gold enough; but you may not be lucky enough to get any of it."</P>
065.sgm:<P>They gave us no encouragement as to the route over which they had passed.  All said, "Expect to find it as bad and worse than you can possibly conceive of."  This was disheartening, I assure you.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Sometimes the trail would be quite passable, and then one could enjoy the scenery.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>On the way we passed several hotels,--nothing more than canvas shanties, with large signs attached, bearing the appellations of "Astor House," "St. Charles Hotel," "Revere House," etc.  The were kept by Americans, and at them one could procure plenty of fruit and liquors of all kinds; but the wise ones were very abstemious, as a great deal of the sickness on the isthmus is engendered by eating and drinking to excess in a climate so excessively warm.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Oh, how tired we grew!  and yet, at every hotel, the distance seemed to increase rather than decrease.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Upon first entering the forests on the isthmus, my attention was directed to what looked like ropes hanging from the trees.  I soon found them to be vines that had run up on the trees, out on the branches, and were suspended therefrom in every direction.  They were leafless, and the color of a rope.</P>
065.sgm:<P>We crossed the Chagres River once only before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>One young lady from Marysville was very much frightened, and kept constantly asserting that she should be drowned, she knew.  Upon reaching the brink of the river, she suddenly reined in her mule, just as he was going to step in.  He became offended at such treatment, and shook her off plump into the river.  Such a screaming!  You would have thought a dozen women were in the river.  She was brought out, and placed again upon her mule, with instructions how to proceed, and was carried safely over.  The water was not up to our stirrups, in the deepest place; but it looked black and deep, down in that dark ravine.  I breathed more freely when safely across.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Once we came to a little slough, over which was built a narrow bridge of poles.  I happened to be ahead at that place, and called to know whether I should cross the bridge, or follow the trail through the slough, which looked very miry.  They told me to let the mule act his own pleasure.  He first tried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>After this, we met two gentlemen on mule-back, and of them we inquired the distance to Obispo.  The reply from one was, "I should think it was a dozen miles, and the very worst road you ever travelled."--"Oh, no," said the other, "not so bad as that.  This is the gentleman's first trip to California.  When he has crossed the Isthmus two or three times, he will not get so quickly discouraged.  It is about two miles to Obispo; and rather a rough road, to be sure, but not worse than you have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>It was two o'clock in the afternoon, and we had been riding since five in the morning, without once leaving our mules, over a road which, for its rugged, uneven, and dangerous passes, beggars description.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Suddenly we heard the shrill whistle of a steam engine.  Our lagging spirits revived.  We toiled on, and reached the top of an eminence which overlooked the beautiful valley of Obispo; and there, far below us, we beheld a scene calculated to inspire the most despondent with renewed hope and courage.  There was the terminus of the railroad; and on the track were twelve long cars, headed by an engine, which was puffing and blowing, and sending forth whistle after whistle, long, loud, and clear, its echoes awakening the hitherto unbroken solitude of the primeval forests of New Granada.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Several hundred United States troops had arrived there, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
065.sgm:<P>When we arrived in the valley, and halted in front of the depot, I suppose our forlorn, jaded appearance excited the sympathy of those there assembled, for many stepped forward to assist us in dismounting.  They lifted us from our saddles, and placed us, not upon our feet,--for not one of the ladies in the company could stand,--but flat upon the ground in the mud.</P>
065.sgm:<P>One lady in particular--who rode nearly the whole way, holding her babe on the saddle in fron of her--fainted, the moment they lifted her from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Upon leaving Panama, she had consigned it to the care of a gentleman, who was going to take it across the Isthmus on the saddle with himself; but whose mule gave out, and fell with him.  In endeavoring to save the infant from injury, he received several severe contusions on his back and head, from the effects of which he did not recover during the journey to New York.  This so frightened the mother, that she took the babe herself; and, in consequence of thus exerting her strength to take care of herself and child,--when those who had no child to attend to could scarcely retain their seats,--she came very near dying.</P>
065.sgm:<P>After remaining a few moments in the mud, I made an attempt to walk.  I would go a few steps, and then fall; pick myself up again, take a few more steps, and then tumble the other way.  I attributed my inability to walk partly to my Indiarubber boots slipping on the muddy ground, and partly to the benumbed and stiffened state of my limbs.  While I was thus staggering about in the vain endeavor to reach a hotel, a gentleman came along, picked me up, and carried me to the desired haven.</P>
065.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>CARS were in readiness to take us immediately to Aspinwall, where the steamer North Star was waiting to convey us to New York.  Many of the gentlemen took passage in them; but the ladies were too exhausted to think of proceeding farther that day; and, as the specie and baggage had not all arrived, there was no danger of the North Star sailing until the next night.</P>
065.sgm:<P>So we all retired, and did not rise again until the next morning.  Our accommodations at Obispo were similar to those at Panama--great rush, nothing to eat, and not much to lie upon.</P>
065.sgm:<P>In the morning, as we were well-nigh famished, a gentleman of the party invited a friend of mine and myself to breakfast with him, as he had been to the trouble of purchasing something, and hiring it cooked expressly for himself.  The breakfast consisted of broiled chicken, fried plantains, and eggs.  That meal cost five dollars, and it was the only one I had while at Obispo.  That forenoon, our baggage arrived, and, while out on the plaza, it was exposed to one of the hardest showers I ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>I must not leave the beautiful valley of Obispo without descanting upon its loveliness.  It was inclosed by lofty hills, whose sides and summits were clothed with the most beautiful tropical foliage.  There grew the tall palm-tree, laden with its milky fruit; the luscious pine-apple; also bananas, and plantains in abundance.</P>
065.sgm:<P>There were, perhaps, twenty native bamboo-huts, thatched with the woven fibre of the palm-leaf, scattered about the valley; around the doors of which, and under the leafy shade of the lime and palmetto, lounged the indolent natives, of both sexes.  And why should they exert themselves, when nature has so abundantly supplied their wants?</P>
065.sgm:<P>They appeared perfectly happy and contented in their ignorance.  No soaring aspirations for fame caused them to pass sleepless nights and anxious days.  They were slaves to no goddess of fashion; and, if they had any pride, I cannot conceive to what point it tended, unless it was an overweening desire to excel in roasting monkeys.  Oh, this was a sunny spot!  I can see it, even now, in my mind's eye, as it appeared when viewed from the top of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>About four o'clock in the afternoon, we seated ourselves in the cars bound to Aspinwall.  Those cars on the Isthmus had cane seats and backs, and were, therefore, not so comfortable for the sick, sore, and lame, as if they had been otherwise.</P>
065.sgm:<P>We were borne over the track quite slowly, as the many short curves which the road made prevented their going with greater speed.  The railroad seemed to follow the bed of the Chagres River.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>How frightened the parrots, paroquets, and monkeys, must have been, when the iron horse first startled those leafy solitudes with his fiery snort!  Never again will profound stillness reign triumphant along the course of the Chagres River.  Those feathered songsters, of brilliant plumage, lured to its vine-clad banks by the gentle ripple of its tiny waves, will fly, startled from their leafy coverts, at the approach of the iron steed.</P>
065.sgm:<P>By and by, the town of Aspinwall appeared to view.  The country all about looked so sunken and marshy, as to impress the beholder at once with an idea of its unhealthy location.  It was quite a place, however, and at that time seemed to be all alive with people.  We passed from the cars directly on board the steamer, as it was near night, and we wished to get possession of our rooms before sailing.  I ascertained the steamer would not get away before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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065.sgm:<P>Being very weary, I concluded to lie down, and get a nap in the first part of the evening, in order to be awake, and be on deck, when we left Aspinwall.</P>
065.sgm:<P>When next I opened my eyes, it was broad daylight.  Aspinwall was far out of sight, and we on the broad Atlantic.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Amid all the bustle and confusion preparatory to sailing, even firing of guns, I had slept soundly.  One lady, thinking I would like to see Aspinwall by lamp-light, endeavored to awaken me; said she spoke my name several times, and shook my arm, but still I slept on; and she left me to the enjoyment of my dreams.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Upon going on deck, I met again all the Uncle Sam's passengers, and saw many strangers who had come on board at Aspinwall.  On the North Star I had only two room-mates, and was minus baby and parrot.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Now that I was on the Atlantic, I felt that the distance between home and myself would be speedily annihilated.  Nothing occurred worthy of note during the passage; and, on the ninth day after leaving Aspinwall, we made Sandy Hook.  It is impossible to describe my sensations upon nearing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>312</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:my native land, after an absence of four years.  I was returning <HI REND="italics">alone</HI>
065.sgm:<P>When the health officer boarded us, I saw a sight that would have drawn pity from the breast of the most obdurate.  It appeared that at Aspinwall there had been brought on board, and placed in the steerage, three sick individuals, the remnant of a family of eight persons, who had left New York for California a short time previous.  On their arrival at the Isthmus, the father and mother had sickened, and died.  The six children started to cross to Panama.  They were robbed of all their money on the way; and, ere they arrived at Panama, the two eldest brothers and one sister died, leaving a young brother and two sisters, penniless and sick.  In this condition they were found by some good Samaritan, brought back to Aspinwall, and placed on board the North Star.  They were very sick indeed--in fact, but just alive; but their sickness was not of an infectious nature.</P>
065.sgm:<P>While preparations were being made to lower away a boat in which to take them to the hospital, they were brought aft, and placed upon deck.  One look at those poor, sick, emaciated children of sorrow would so stamp itself upon the pages of memory,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The eldest girl was about sixteen; the other might be fourteen, and the boy twelve.  Not two months since, they had left New York, a healthy, happy family.  Now the remaining three were brought back to die in the hospital.  The eldest girl died in the boat while being transported to the hospital.  The other two, I have no doubt, quickly followed her, as they looked more like tenants of the tomb than aught else.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I must not forget to mention the fate of those two little orphans whose mother was buried on the Isthmus.  The kind-hearted lady who took them in charge had faithfully fulfilled her mission.  The children were well and happy, in their guileless innocence.  A collection was taken for them on board the North Star, to the amount of three hundred dollars.  This, added to the two hundred previously taken, was delivered up to the lady who had them in charge; and she was going with them to Cincinnati, at which place a sister of the deceased mother resided, and to whom the dying mother had bequeathed them.</P>
065.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>WE neared the city of New York.  Soon its domes, turrets, and spires, became more distinct.  We were fast nearing home.  Home!  How the mention of that word sent a thrill to my heart!  It is scarcely possible to describe my feelings at that time; exuberant joy, mingled with sorrowful reminiscences which came crowding thick and fast over the ocean of memory, overshadowing all the bright hopes and sunny feelings of the heart.</P>
065.sgm:<P>We reached the wharf late in the afternoon.  It is needless to describe the bustle incident to the arrival of an ocean steamer, crowded with passengers.  It is enough to say, that after being jammed, and jostled, and crushed, to your infinite satisfaction, you find yourself on board a hack, bound to one of the many hotels which intersperse the city.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The next day, I was too sick to start for home, completely prostrated by excitement, I suppose.  The next day, I left New York.  The following morning, I neared my native town.  The station was reached; I left the cars.  I had purposely kept my arrival secret, the better to take them by surprise.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>BEFORE laying aside my pen, I am constrained to say a word regarding the moral tone of society as it existed in California as early as the years 1851 and 1852.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Recollect, kind reader, that the state of society in California at the present day is as unlike what it was at the time alluded to above as are the golden tints of the eastern sky ere the glorious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>To what cause could be attributed this lack of morality, which seemed to pervade the greater portion of the community at that early day, and which necessarily dimmed the lustre of the brightest gem in God's magnificent footstool?  Was it the atmospheric influence which surrounded them? or were the evil propensities of their natures more forcibly displayed for the very reason that they felt themselves beyond the reach of all those conventional forms of society which, in our puritanical country, serve to restrain, more or less, the inherent evil of our natures?</P>
065.sgm:<P>Travellers who have wandered in the sunny regions of a tropical clime, and have mingled with the inhabitants, can scarcely fail to perceive the effect of that balmy, blissful atmosphere upon the human passions.  Their quick, impulsive natures, warm and generous hearts, overflowing with love and affection; the bewitching naivete&acute; of manner so characteristic of the females has often proved a theme for the poet and historian.</P>
065.sgm:<P>California, although not situated within the tropics, many of its sunny vales possess all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>It is oftentimes the case that persons naturally pure, and possessed of good principles, by constant intercourse with those whose nationalities are less stringent with regard to morality, are almost unconsciously, as it were, led to adopt customs, and imbibe sentiments that at first were quite revolting to their natures.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Ever willing to place the best construction upon another's conduct, I would much rather infer that all of the evil which displays itself is the result of a vacillating mind, unable to withstand temptation, rather than of an innate desire to set at defiance the laws of God and man.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Persons from all classes were to be found in California,--the moral and the immoral, the tempter and the tempted.  Well may it call a blush to the cheek of our own sex, when I assert that the immoral predominated, as far as the female portion of the community were concerned.  I have been an unwilling observer of transactions, which, had they been related to me, would have shaken my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Now, it is characteristic of my humble self to illustrate every subject by relating some event which has come under my personal observation, and which will, I think, serve to interest.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Among the first who emigrated from the city of Boston to the western El Dorado were a mother and daughter.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The daughter, yet scarcely fifteen years of age, gave promise of extreme loveliness.  Carefully had that mother guarded her, lest a too early acquaintance with the chilling realities of life should rob her young and guileless heart of a portion of its pristine purity and undimmed faith.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Of that mother's early history but little was known; yet it was often whispered by the gossiping ones that the remembrance of her own sad, youthful experience had given that shade of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The better to acquire a competency, wherewith to surround the loved one with all those appliances of comfort so desirable to a young and beautiful girl, the mother determined to seek a home within the precincts of the "Golden State."  Better, far better, had she immured herself and child in the catacombs of Rome than thus to have launched their frail bark upon the golden wave of a California sea.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The most ambitious votary of admiration there at that time must have been satisfied, and even satiated, with the amount of homage, adulation, and heartless flattery, which was poured into their too willing ears.  One can realize the danger likely to be incurred by placing a young, lovely, and attractive female in a country where virtue was regarded by the mass only as a name, and while she was yet too young to discriminate between the respectful homage of sensible gentlemen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Nightly they would convene in those gilded halls of iniquity, and pursue their soul-killing avocation.  To be sure, they nightly won their thousands, little caring for the mental agony of their victims, whom they had robbed of the last ounce of dust, which they had been months, perhaps, accumulating, and which they had intended to have transmitted to their families in their far distant homes.  Wait patiently, wife and little ones,--wait patiently for the father and husband to learn the best and most effective lesson ever taught by that inexorable schoolmaster, experience!  If his first lesson is severe indeed, as a general thing, he is not over anxious to risk a second recital, and the absent wife may hope again to welcome his loved image to the now sorrowful home.</P>
065.sgm:<P>These professed gamblers are never content with ruining those of their own sex, but are ever on the alert and the watch for victims from among the youthful, unsophisticated, and beautiful of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the vigilance of her mother, she had formed an acquaintance with one of the most enticing of the gambling brotherhood.  For weeks and months he had been gradually gaining a strong foothold upon her affections, by practising all those insidious arts which too often successfully entrap the uninitiated.  He knew he was beloved, and, knowing that, felt secure of his victim.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The affection bestowed upon that dissolute gamester was deserving a better object.  Upon the promise of a speedy marriage, she left her mother's roof; and together they fled to one of the interior towns.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Who can graphically describe that mother's anguish, upon learning the flight of her darling?  Within a few hours of their departure, the bereaved, heart-broken, and nearly frantic woman was on the track of the seducer and his victim.  She arrived about midnight at the town where the fugitives had taken up their abode.  After travelling nearly thirty-six hours without once tasting food, or taking any rest, this grief-stricken woman procured a suitable disguise, and, arming herself with a "Colt's revolver," started on her mission of death.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Grief had rendered her frantic, and, in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>She threaded her lonely way through the nearly deserted streets of that inland city, never wavering in her murderous intentions, until she paused at the entrance of one of those brilliantly lighted gambling-saloons which spread their contaminating influence on all around.  She entered, expecting and hoping to find the object of pursuit engaged in his nefarious vocation.  She saw, however, only the usual appurtenances of these houses of sin.  Elegantly attired women, within whose natures long since had expired the last flickering spark of feminine modesty, were seated, dealing cards at a game of Faro or Lansquenet, and, by their winning smile and enticing manner, inducing hundreds of men to stake their all upon their tables. The stricken mother passed through the crowd, but could nowhere see the object of her search.</P>
065.sgm:<P>In this manner she visited all the houses of like reputation, with similar success.  By some means <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>What power had changed that mother's anger to grief too deep for utterance?  Was it the vivid recollection of a similar scene, enacted long, long ago, in which she had participated?  Did the form of her kind and sainted mother rise before her?  Yes; she beheld again, in fancy, that calm, sad face, the memory of which had often disturbed her midnight slumbers.  These harrowing recollections of the would-be-forgotten past were quite too overpowering.  It was long before she was restored to consciousness; and not until repeatedly assured by that deeply dyed villain, that he would make ample restitution by marrying her daughter, could she be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>Months flew by, scarcely heeded by the happy child.  The long-deferred marriage proved no source of grief to her.  She <HI REND="italics">loved</HI>
065.sgm:<P>Perhaps he would have married her,--for he seemed happy only when in her presence,--if he had not been indissolubly bound to another.  Lillie had yet to learn that stunning truth.  It must be so; yet how he trembled, and shrank from making a disclosure, which, he well knew, would chill the very life-blood in her veins!</P>
065.sgm:<P>The wife of his youth, tired of living alone in her distant home, had formed the determination to join her husband, and follow his fortunes in the "Golden Empire."  Her decision was irrevocable.  Even the time was appointed when he should meet her at the bay.  He felt, at times, like flying with Lillie to parts unknown; for, depraved as he was, she, by her artless, winning ways, and rich wealth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>They left, that day, for San Francisco,--he, to meet his injured, unloved wife; she, to be received in the arms of her wronged, but still loving mother.  Under the influence of a powerful narcotic, which had been administered at her own option, she was conveyed to her mother's house; and there we will leave her for the present.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Behold how majestically that mammoth ocean steamer cuts her way through the sparkling waters of the bay!  Now she gracefully turns her prow towards one of the piers, that is crowded with people.  What varied emotions fill the bosoms of those there assembled!  Some are eagerly, anxiously, expecting the loved wife, from whom they have been separated, perhaps for years; others, dreading, fearing, to meet those whom they have ceased to love, and wish they may never behold again.  There were many who had formed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The meeting once over, he felt he could sustain his part no longer.  Pitiable wife! Henceforth she must be content with a bountiful supply of pocket money.  She may revel in luxury, be surrounded with splendor, have every wish gratified but the one yearning desire to possess her husband's love.  That was denied to her.  She felt the estrangement keenly.  What a miserable life was hers!  Night after night, as her aching head pressed her lonely pillow, she prayed that death might end her sufferings.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Early morn, perhaps, would bring her husband home.  Perchance his only word of salutation would be, "Well, wife, last night I won two, three, or four thousand dollars," just as the case might be; for he was one of those successful gamblers who are well versed in all the tricks used to defraud the unwary.  Yes, his coffers were heaped high with his ill-gotten treasures!  What cared the wife for riches, if she must ever be treated with that cold, studied politeness, always so freezing to the loving recipient?  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>In the interim, what had become of Lillie?  Had she repented of her sin, and chosen purity's white robe, with which to deck her faultless figure?  Ah, no!  She did not possess moral courage sufficient to brave the heartless sarcasm, the keen reproach, of that class who are ever ready to judge their fellow-mortals, and who ever forget that divine precept which teaches us that "to err is human; to forgive, divine."  And then, after taking the first step in wickedness, it is much easier to follow on in the downward track, than it is to turn, and tread the flowery path of purity, which leads to the mansion of happiness.</P>
065.sgm:<P>After the lapse of a few months, she returned to the inland city; "for," she remarked, "it is some pleasure to breathe the same atmosphere, to traverse the same streets, and frequent the same places of resort as the dearly loved."  She rushed recklessly into dissipation.  Her extreme beauty, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>One day she would appear in splendid Turkish costume, which admirably displayed her tiny little foot encased in richly embroidered satin slippers.  Thus would she promenade the thronged thoroughfares of the city, the observed of all observers.  Again she might be seen, superbly dressed after the fashion of that class of people denominated "fast men."  How gracefully she held the ribbons, and with what dexterity she managed her spirited horse, as she dashed madly on over the broad plains which surrounded the city.  In the use of the cigarita she equalled, in point of fascination, the dark-eyed Spanish women.</P>
065.sgm:<P>I have seen her mounted on a glossy, lithelimbed race-horse,--one that had won for her many thousands on the course,--habited in a closely-fitting riding-dress of black velvet, ornamented with a hundred and fifty gold buttons, a hat from which depended magnificent sable plumes, and, over her face, a short white lace veil of the richest texture, so gossamer-like, one could almost see the fire of passion flashing from the depths of her dark, lustrous eyes.  She took all captive.  Gold and diamonds were showered upon her.  Her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The unloved wife, finding that all efforts to reclaim her husband's love proved futile, decided to return to the home of her youth.  She took passage from San Francisco in a steamer upon which Lillie's mother had also secured her passage; for, despairing of ever reclaiming her daughter, she was hastening to leave a country where so much existed to remind her of her fallen child.  Thus were these two sorrowing females thrown together on ship-board; yet neither by word or look did they recognize each other.  The mother still cherished the same revengeful feelings towards the seducer; and the proud wife rejected the idea of allowing, even for a moment, the mother of one who unconsciously had been instrumental in causing the sky of her existence to be shrouded in dark, impenetrable gloom, to suspect that she was suffering from unrequited affection.</P>
065.sgm:<P>The husband was happy again with Lillie, until about two years after his wife's departure, when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>There were many beautiful, depraved women in California who, previous to leaving their homes in the Atlantic States, had lived virtuous lives; many who had been the light and the life of the home circle--who had, indeed, been an ornament to the society in which they moved.  Some of them were desirous of acquiring riches; and, hearing such glowing accounts of fortunes so speedily amassed in California, and also being possessed of an adventurous spirit, started, as they termed it, to seek their fortunes.  Some went with their husbands, some with their fathers, some with their brothers, and too many went alone.</P>
065.sgm:<P>To such as had felt and known all the inconvenience arising from a limited purse, and thought that if they were blessed with riches, or a competency even, their happiness would be complete,--to such, I assert, it was a dangerous country to go to, unless their principles were as firm as the rocks of their native hills.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>After awhile, she became tired of her rather monotonous life, and conceived the idea of going to one of the interior cities, to see if she could find something better to do.  An offer was made of forty dollars an evening, if she would sit at a Lansquenet table, and deal the cards.  At first she shrank with horror at the idea of thus appearing in a gambling-house.  Then she thought of her widowed mother at home, deprived of all the comforts and luxuries so acceptable to the middle-aged and feeble.  Said she, "What an amount of money I can earn in this way, wherewith to surround mother with every comfort, and yet not compromise my honor in the least!"  Mistaken girl!  No woman could long remain virtuous in one of those gilded saloons of vice, surrounded, as she must necessarily be, by men who looked upon the opposite sex very much in the same light as does the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>The night approached on which Jennie was to make her debu&circ;t in the sporting world.  With a palpitating heart, she repaired, in company with her employer, to one of the most magnificent gambling establishments in the city.  Upon entering, the dazzling brilliancy of the surrounding appurtenances, the delicious strains of magical music which burst upon her ear, were perfectly enchanting; but, as she raised her eyes to the walls, (from which depended numerous pictures, all calculated to excite the grosser passions of man, and which were inclosed in magnificently gilded frames,) she drank in at a glance her position, and fainted.  She was taken to her hotel, and left, for that night, to her own gloomy reflections.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Oh, Jennie, if you had but listened to, and been guided by, the spirit-influence of your Guardian Angel, who is ever near and ready, unless obstinately resisted, to soothe the agitated, wavering heart, and, by sweet, whispered breathings of divine counsel, is able to lead the troubled soul to drink of the sweet waters of eternal happiness!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>For some time she retained all her original purity; and then the angels in heaven might have wept, when they saw the tempter secure of his victim.  She had launched her skiff upon the sea of immorality, freighted with that priceless treasure, virtue; and, in exchange for which, it had returned to her laden with gold, wherewith she could supply her dearly loved mother's every want.  Thus she lived for months; not quite so daring as Lillie, yet drinking sufficiently deep at the Lethean fount to hush all the whisperings of conscience.  She finally terminated her profitable career of vice by marrying a wealthy, popular man in one of the mountain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>She now moves in good society in one of our Eastern cities, surrounded with all the appliances of wealth, in possession of the love of a popular and respected husband.  Who, among her numerous friends, would stop to make inquiries of her past life?  And, even if her fashionable acquaintances knew of her past follies, I am rather inclined to think they would "wink" at them rather than lose a <HI REND="italics">wealthy friend</HI>
065.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII.</HEAD>
065.sgm:<P>Now, kind friends, a few farewell words, and my story closes.  On my ride from the depot home, I passed the old, familiar trees; yet, thought I, they have certainly grown smaller.  And the brook, too <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>There, before me, was the old homestead, the spot where my heart first learned attachment; where my mind had first opened its eyes; where a mother had tenderly nurtured me, from earliest infancy.</P>
065.sgm:<P>How sensibly the shadows of retrospection came creeping over my heart, as I first drew in sight of that endeared place!  The roofs and windows looked familiar to my eye; the old trees waved their arms as of yore.  I reached the door, raised the latch, and was locked in the embrace of father, mother, brothers.  But the sister whom I had left there a light-hearted girl, had gone to gladden and cheer another's home.  She had pressed one darling babe to her bosom for a short space; then it had winged its way to blissful realms above, and left the mother desolate.</P>
065.sgm:<P>Now, you have accompanied me on my eventful voyage to California, around Cape Horn, on board burning ships; have sympathized with me in sorrow, joyed with me in pleasure; crossed the Isthmus with me, astride a mule; in fact, followed me through "dangers seen and unseen;" and, finally,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
065.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
065.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
068.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-068</TITLE>
068.sgm:<TITLE>Six months in the gold mines:  from a journal of three years' residence in Upper and Lower California. 1847-8-9.  By E. Gould Buffum: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
068.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
068.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
068.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
068.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
068.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
068.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
068.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc01-767//r63</LCCN>
068.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
068.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
068.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>SIX MONTHS</P>
068.sgm:<P>IN THE GOLD MINES:</P>
068.sgm:<P>FROM A JOURNAL OF</P>
068.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Three Years Residence</HI>
068.sgm:<P>IN</P>
068.sgm:<P>UPPER AND LOWER CALIFORNIA</P>
068.sgm:<P>1847-8-9.</P>
068.sgm:<P>BY<LB>E. GOULD BUFFUM,<LB>LIEUTENANT FIRST REGIMENT NEW YORK VOLUNTEERS.</P>
068.sgm:<P>PHILADELPHIA:</P>
068.sgm:<P>LEA AND BLANCHARD.</P>
068.sgm:<P>1850.</P>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1850,</P>
068.sgm:<P>BY LEA AND BLANCHARD,</P>
068.sgm:<P>In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of</P>
068.sgm:<P>Pennsylvania.</P>
068.sgm:<P>PHILADELPHIA:</P>
068.sgm:<P>C. SHERMAN, PRINTER.</P>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>TO</P>
068.sgm:<P>JOHN CHARLES FRE&acute;MONT,</P>
068.sgm:<P>THE UNITED STATES SENATOR</P>
068.sgm:<P>FIRST CHOSEN TO REPRESENT THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA;</P>
068.sgm:<P>THE HISTORY</P>
068.sgm:<P>OF WHOSE INVALUABLE PIONEER LABOURS</P>
068.sgm:<P>WILL ENDURE AS LONG AS THE MOUNTAINS, VALLEYS, AND PLAINS</P>
068.sgm:<P>WHICH HIS COURAGE AND INDOMITABLE ENTERPRISE EXPLORED,</P>
068.sgm:<P>AND HIS GENIUS HAS ILLUSTRATED,</P>
068.sgm:<P>This Memorial of Adventure,</P>
068.sgm:<P>BY PERMISSION,</P>
068.sgm:<P>IS MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,</P>
068.sgm:<P>BY</P>
068.sgm:<P>THE AUTHOR.</P>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>PUBLISHERS' NOTICE.<LB>THE pages of this work, in consequence of the public interest in all that appertains to California, have been hurried through the press, without the revision expected by the author; there may be, therefore, some slight errors detected through the pages.  The writer of the work, formerly connected intimately with the New York press, has been a resident and explorer of California for more than three years, and still remains there.  The proof sheets could not, therefore, well be submitted to his revision.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Philadelphia, May, 1850.</P>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>INTRODUCTION,<HSEP>13<LB>CHAPTER I.<LB>Departure for the Mines--The Victims--Adventures of a Night on San Francisco Bay--Voyage in a Launch--My Companion Higgins--Resolutions of the Passengers--The Bay of San Pablo--The Straits of Carquinez--Benicia--The Bay of Suisun--The Sacramento--Beautiful Scenery--Montezuma--Monte Diablo--Camp on Shore--Hala-chum-muck--Firing the Woods--Schwartz's Rancho--A "manifest destiny" Man--Involuntary Baptism--Sacramento City--The Embarcadero,<HSEP>25<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>Arrival of our Party--The Mountaineer--A "prospecting" Expedition--The Start--California Skies in November--A Drenching--Go-ahead Higgins--"Camp Beautiful"--John the Irishman--The Indian's Grave--A "rock" Speech--The Return--Herd of Antelope--Johnson's Rancho--Acorn Gathering--Indian Squaws--Novel Costume--The Rancheria--Pule-u-le--A Bear Fight,<HSEP>35<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>Yuba River--A Clean Shirt an Expensive Luxury--Yankee Pedler--The Upper and Lower Diggings--Foster's Bar--The Gold-Rocker--Gold-Digging and Gold-Washing--Return to the Embarcadero--Captain John A. Sutter--Curious Currency--Sutter's Fort--Sam Brannan <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:and Co.--Washing Clothes--Salmon Shooting--Green Springs--Weaver's Creek--A Teamster's Bill.<HSEP>49<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>Our Log Cabin--Pi-pita-tua--Increase of our Party--The Dry Diggings of Weaver's Creek--The "Pockets" and "Nests"--Theory of the Gold Region--My First Day's Labour in the <HI REND="italics">Placers</HI>
068.sgm: --Extravagant Reports from the Middle Fork--Start for Culoma--Approach of the Rainy Season--The "Devil's Punch-Bowl,"<HSEP>59<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>Sutter's Mill--Discovery of the Placers--Marshall and Bennett--Great Excitement--Desertion of the <HI REND="italics">Pueblos</HI>
068.sgm:, and general Rush for the Mines--Gold-Mine Prices--Descent into a <HI REND="italics">Can&tilde;on</HI>
068.sgm: --Banks of the Middle Fork--Pan Washing--Good Luck--Our Camp--Terrific Rain Storm--Sudden Rise of the River,<HSEP>67<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>Mormon Exploration of the Middle Fork--Headquarters of the Goldhunters--The North Fork--Smith's Bar--Damming--Great Luck of a Frenchman and his Son--Kelsey's Bar--Rise and Fall of the Rivers--Return to Weaver's Creek--Agricultural Prospects--Culoma Sawmill--An Extensive and Expensive Breakfast--"Prospecting" on the South Fork--Winter Quarters--Snow-storm--A Robbery--Summary Justice--Garcia, Bissi, and Manuel--Lynch Law--Trial for attempt to Murder--Execution of the Accused--Fine Weather--How the Gold became distributed--Volcanic Craters,<HSEP>77<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>Monotonous Life at Weaver's Creek--Dry Diggings Uncertain--Discovery of a Rich Ravine--Great Results of One Day's Labour--Invasion of my Ravine--Weber and Dalor--The Indian Mode of Trading--A Mystery--Settlement of Weaverville--Price of Gold-dust in the Winter of 1848--Gambling--Cost of Provisions--Opening of the Spring--Big Bar--Attack of the Land Scurvy--Symptoms and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:Treatment--Lucky Discovery--Progress of Culoma--Arrival of the First Steamer--Broadway Dandies wielding Pick and Shovel--Indian Outrages--Capture and Execution of Redskins,<HSEP>89<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>Extent and Richness of the Gold Region of Upper California--Are the "Gold-washings" inexhaustible?--A Home for the Starving Millions of Europe and the Labouring Men of America--Suicidal Policy of our Military Governors--Union of Capital, Labour, and Skill--A Word to Capitalists--Joint-stock Companies--The Gold-bearing Quartz of the Sierra--Experience of Hon. G. W. Wright--Extraordinary Results of pulverizing Quartz Rock--The Gold Mines of Georgia--Steam Engines and Stamping Machines--Growth of Sacramento and San Francisco,<HSEP>103<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>The Mexican System of Government--Establishment of the Legislative Assembly of San Francisco--Seizure of the Town Records--Address of the Assembly recommending the Formation of a State Government--Interference of Brevet Brigadier-General Riley--Public Meeting--Organization of the State Convention--The Constitution--The Elections,<HSEP>113<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>Growth of San Francisco--Number of Houses erected--Prices of Real Estate--Rents--Wages of Mechanics and Labourers--Gambling--Prices Current--Climate--Churches--Steamboats--Statistics of Shipping, &amp;c., &amp;c., &amp;c.,<HSEP>121<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>Weber--Sullivan--Stockton--Hudson--Georgetown--Sam Riper--The Slate Range--The "Biggest Lump" yet found in California,<HSEP>125 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>Recapitulation--Population of the Mining Region--Average Amount of Gold Dug--Requirements of a Gold-Digger--The Best Season--In what kind of Soil is Gold Found?--Washing Machines--California a Habitable Country--The Learned Professions,<HSEP>131<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>The Old Towns of California,<HSEP>139<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>The New Towns of California,<HSEP>149<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>Lower California,<HSEP>159</P>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>ON the 26th day of September, 1846, the 7th Regiment of New York State Volunteers, commanded by Colonel J. D. Stevenson, sailed from the harbour of New York under orders from the Secretary of War, to proceed to Upper California.  The objects and operations of the expedition, the fitting out of which created some sensation at the time, are now too well understood and appreciated to require explanation.  This regiment, in which I had the honour of holding a lieutenant's commission, numbered, rank and file, about seven hundred and twenty men, and sailed from New York in the ships Loo Choo, Susan Drew, and Thomas H. Perkins.  After a fine passage of little more than five months, during which we spent several days pleasantly in Rio Janeiro, the Thomas H. Perkins entered the harbour of San Francisco and anchored off the site of the town, then called Yerba Buena, on the 6th day of March, 1847.  The remaining ships arrived soon afterwards.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Alta California we found in quiet possession of the American land and naval forces--the "stars and stripes" floating over the old Mexican <HI REND="italics">presidios</HI>
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068.sgm:<P>The now famous city of San Francisco, situated near the extreme end of a long and barren peninsular tract of land, which separates the bay of San Francisco from the ocean, when first I landed, on its beach was almost a solitude, there being not more than twelve or fifteen rough houses, and a few temporary buildings for hides, to relieve the view.  Where now stands the great commercial metropolis of the Pacific, with its thirty thousand inhabitants, its busy streets alive with the hum of trade, were <HI REND="italics">corrals</HI>
068.sgm:<P>With the discovery of the gold mines, a new era in the history of California commences.  This event has already changed a comparative wilderness into a flourishing State, and is destined to affect the commercial and political relations of the world.  Between California as she was at the period of the cession to the United States and as she is at this time, there is no similitude.  In two short years her mineral resources have been developed, and she has at once emerged from obscurity into a cynosure upon which nations are gazing with wondering eyes.  Her mountains and valleys, but recently the hunting grounds of naked savages, are now peopled with a hundred thousand civilized men; her magnificent harbours crowded with ships from far distant ports; her rivers and bays navigated by steamboats; her warehouses filled with the products of almost every clime, and her population energetic, hopeful, and prosperous.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Although a history of California as she was would convey an entirely false idea of California as she is, it may not be amiss to look back a few months and see whence has sprung the young giantess now claiming admission on equal terms among the starry sisterhood of our Union.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Prior to the discovery of the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm: the country was thinly peopled, the inhabitants being mostly native <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:Californians, Mexicans, and Indians.  The better classes lived the indolent life of <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
068.sgm:; their wealth consisting in immense herds of cattle and horses running wild upon the hills and plains.  The Indians, with the exception of those living in a wholly savage state, were little better than serfs, and performed all the drudgery and labour.  The great staples and principal articles of trade were hides and tallow, for which goods at enormous prices were taken in exchange.  Money was the scarcest article on the coast, many persons never seeing a dollar from one year's end to another, ox hides having acquired the name and answering the purpose of "California bank notes."  The amusements of the country were gambling and <HI REND="italics">fandangoes</HI>
068.sgm:, freely participated in by both sexes, and all classes of the community.  A few American, English, and French merchants resided at San Francisco, Monterey, Santa Barbara, and Los Angelos, who conducted the whole mercantile business of the country.  The missions, once flourishing establishments, stripped of their privileges by the Mexican government, had fallen to decay.  The native inhabitants, a kind, hospitable, and light-hearted race, too indolent even to desire more than an <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
068.sgm: house for a dwelling, beef and <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
068.sgm: for food, and spirited horses to bear them dashingly over the hills and prairies, were either the victims of the tyranny of the central government, or of <HI REND="italics">pronunciamentos</HI>
068.sgm: and petty civil broils; and California, with her delicious climate, her inexhaustible resources, and important geographical position, might to this day have remained an almost unknown region, visited occasionally by a trading vessel with an assorted cargo, to be exchanged for hides, had not a mysterious Providence ordained the discovery of the golden sands of the Rio Americano.  This event at once gave a tremendous impetus to commerce and emigration, and may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>Upper California, as defined by the old maps, embraces the region of country lying between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra de los Mibres on the east, and the Pacific Ocean on the west; and is bounded on the north by the 42d degree of latitude, and on the south by <HI REND="italics">Baja</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The boundaries of the new "State of California" as fixed by the Constitution are as follows, viz.: "Commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d degree of north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude west from Greenwich, and running south on the line of said 120th degree of west longitude until it intersects the 39th degree of north latitude; thence running in a straight line in a south-easterly direction to the river Colorado, at a point where it intersects the 35th degree of north latitude; thence down the middle of the channel of said river, to the boundary line between the United States and Mexico, as established by the treaty of May 30, 1848; thence running west and along said boundary line to the Pacific Ocean, and extending therein three English miles; thence running in a northwesterly direction, and following the Pacific coast to the 42d degree of north latitude; thence on the line of said 42d degree of north latitude to the place of beginning.  Also all the islands, harbours, and bays, along and adjacent to the Pacific coast."</P>
068.sgm:<P>The new state, embracing the whole country between the Pacific and the 120th degree of west longitude, includes both the western and eastern flanks of the Sierra, and must contain an area of at least one hundred and fifty thousand square miles, being from one hundred to two hundred and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>There have never been greater mistakes made by writers than in describing and estimating the climate and resources of California.  The most contradictory statements have been made, only to be reconciled on the ground that the country was seen from different points, and at different seasons of the year.  It seems to have been forgotten that Upper California embraces a region of country extending along the coast of the Pacific a distance of more than six hundred miles, with a difference of ten degrees of latitude, affording scope for a wide range and vast difference of climate.  The whole surface of the country is broken up into mountains, valleys, and plains, and is traversed from north to south by the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range, some of the volcanic peaks of the former rising to the height of sixteen thousand feet into the region of perpetual snow.  The country directly bordering the coast has a high mean temperature, while a few miles interior the climate will be found of the mildest and most genial character--the atmosphere being remarkable for its softness and purity.  Taking a general view, I doubt much if any country in the world can boast a more equable and salubrious climate.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The soil of California, like the face of the country, is extremely diversified.  The hills are usually barren, while throughout the whole territory are well-watered valleys, whose soil is a rich black loam, capable of producing many of the tropical fruits, and all the products of the temperate zones.  I cannot say I consider California, in its present condition, an agricultural country.  The rich and extensive valleys which exist from north to south are indeed susceptible of the highest cultivation, and will produce in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:greatest luxuriance, but the hills along the Coast Range are generally barren and sandy, and almost devoid of shrubbery, while the plains, during eight months of the year, are parched with the summer heat.  There is this to be said, however;--the experiment has never been fairly tried.  When the mineral region shall offer less temptation than at present, and American industry and ingenuity have been brought to bear, the capacities of the soil will be fairly tested.  The extensive and fertile valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, which offer the greatest inducements to the agriculturist, lie north of San Francisco.  The lower Sacramento valley is about one hundred and seventy miles long, and about sixty broad in the widest part.  The valley of the San Joaquin is nearly three hundred miles long, and from fifty to sixty miles wide.  Both of these valleys are well wooded, and are watered by the two great rivers (from which they take their name) and their tributaries, and abound with a great variety of game.  Herds of elk, black-tailed deer, and antelopes are seen bounding over the hills and plains,--and grizzly bears, <HI REND="italics">coyotes</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The great difficulty in the way of extensive agricultural operations is the lack of rain.  But wherever the soil can be irrigated, everything grows most luxuriantly; and it is astonishing to what an extent the wild oats and rye, which cover the Coast Range and some of the foot hills of the Sierra, grow even without it.  In most places where the land can be irrigated, a succession of crops may be raised throughout the year.  Water can always be found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>South of San Francisco lie the beautiful and fertile valleys of San Jose and San Juan--the garden spot of California.  In these valleys, and in the whole southern country below Point Conception and the <HI REND="italics">Cuesta de Santa Jues</HI>
068.sgm:, about latitude 35&deg; most of the tropical and all the fruits of the temperate zone are produced in great profusion.  Figs, grapes, olives, bananas, pomegranates, peaches, apples, quinces, pears, melons, and plums of the finest quality grow abundantly. The olive of California is larger than the French, and declared by <HI REND="italics">gourmets</HI>
068.sgm: to be far superior in flavour,--while the wine pressed from the Californian grape needs only to become better known to be appreciated.  Among the fruits of California growing wild throughout the whole country, is the <HI REND="italics">tuna</HI>
068.sgm:<P>In mineral resources California stands unrivalled.  To say nothing at present of her immense <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm: of gold, she contains within her bosom minerals of other kinds sufficient to enrich her.  In the north, on the Coast Range above Sonoma, saltpetre, copper, sulphur, and lead, have been found in large quantities; the latter so pure, that I was told by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:an old hunter two years ago, that he had frequently run his bullets from the ore.  Silver mines have been discovered on the south side of San Francisco Bay, and near the <HI REND="italics">Pueblo de San Jose</HI>
068.sgm:<P>California occupies a geographical position of the first rank and importance, and must eventually control the commerce of the vast Pacific.  With a coast extending more than six hundred miles from north to south, indented with numerous bays and harbours, connected with her golden interior almost to the base of the lofty Sierra by navigable streams, blessed with a mild and salubrious climate, and capable of sustaining a large population, she must one day become the <HI REND="italics">entrepo&circ;t</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The following pages have been written <HI REND="italics">currente calamo</HI>
068.sgm:, in moments stolen from the cares of business, within sound of the click of hammers, the grating of saws, and all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxii</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:noise, bustle, excitement, speculation, and confusion of San Francisco, and on the eve of my departure for a further exploration of the great southern mines.  Under these circumstances, no particular regard has been paid to style.  It is not to be expected that a California goldhunter can afford to bestow hours on the mere polishing of sentences and rounding of periods like a Parisian <HI REND="italics">litterateur</HI>
068.sgm:.  They contain a narrative of my journey to, and life and adventures in, the golden region of California, during the autumn, winter, and spring of 1848-9, with a full and complete description of the principal <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm:, the process of extracting gold from the earth, and the necessary machines and implements; a theory of the origin of the golden sands; an account of the gold-bearing quartz of the Sierra Nevada; a history of the rise and progress of the principal new towns and cities; the formation of the state government, and a six months' residence on the Gulf of Lower California.  I have endeavoured to give a truthful narrative, and statistics upon which reliance may be placed, with a view to a better understanding of the subject than can be gained from the garbled, and in some cases maliciously untrue statements, which have flooded the eastern press, written in some cases by men who have never been farther than the town of San Francisco or Stockton, and who of course know nothing of the country or the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The statements of one attracted to California by other charms than those of gold, a resident within her borders for nearly three years, conversant with the language, manners, and customs of her inhabitants, an observer of her wonderful growth, and a gold-digger for six months, will undoubtedly be received with consideration; and if I succeed in imparting to my readers (every one of whom has probably a brother or some dear friend here), a correct <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxiii</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>At the time of the discovery of the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm:, I was stationed at La Paz, Lower California, but being ordered to Upper California, arrived at Monterey in the middle of June, 1848, about six weeks after the discovery had been made public.  The most extravagant stories were then in circulation, but they were mostly viewed as the vagaries of a heated fancy by the good people of Monterey.  I was ordered to the Pueblo de los Angelos for duty, where I arrived on the fourth day of July, and remained with the detachment with which I was connected until it was disbanded, on the 18th day of September, 1848.  The day of our disbandment was hailed with joy such as a captive must feel on his release from slavery.  For three long months we had anxiously awaited the event.  The stories from the mines breathed the spirit of the Arabian tales, and visions of "big lumps" floated before our eyes.  In three days <HI REND="italics">La Ciudad de los Angelos</HI>
068.sgm: was deserted by its former occupants, and wagons and horses laden with tin pans, crowbars, iron pots, shovels, pork, and pickaxes, might have been seen on the road to the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm:.  On the 18th of October, I reached San Francisco, where a curious state of things was presented.  Gold dust and coin were as plentiful as the sea-shore sands, and seemed to be thought about as valuable.  The town had but little improved since I first saw it, as upon the discovery of the mines it had been nearly deserted by its inhabitants.  Real estate had been slowly depreciating for several months, and the idea of San Francisco being a large city within two years had not yet been broached.  Merchandise of all descriptions was exceedingly high.  Flour was selling at $50 per barrel; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:dried beef 50 cents per pound; coffee 50 cents; shovels $10 each; tin pans $5 do.; crow-bars $10 do.; red flannel shirts $5 do.; common striped shirts $5 do.; common boots $16 per pair; and everything else in proportion.  I made a few purchases and held myself in readiness to start for the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm:<P>San Francisco, January 1st, 1850.</P>
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068.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Departure for the Mines--The Victims--Adventures of a Night on San Francisco Bay--Voyage in a Launch--My Companion Higgins--Resolutions of the Passengers--The Bay of San Pablo--The Straits of Carquinez--Benicia--The Bay of Suisun--The Sacramento--Beautiful Scenery--Montezuma--Monte Diablo--Camp on Shore--Hala-chum-muck--Firing the Woods--Schwartz's Rancho--A "manifest destiny" Man--Involuntary Baptism--Sacramento City--The Embarcadero.</P>
068.sgm:<P>ARMED with a pickaxe, shovel, hoe, and rifle, and accoutred in a red flannel shirt, corduroy pants, and heavy boots, and accompanied by two friends, I found myself, on the afternoon of the 25th of October, 1848, wending my way to the only wharf in San Francisco, to take passage for the golden hills of the Sierra Nevada.  The scenes that for days had met my eyes, and even as I was stepping on board the launch, might have damped the ardour of a more adventurous man.  Whole launch-loads of miserable victims of fever and ague were daily arriving from the mining region--sallow, weak, emaciated and dispirited--but I had nerved myself for the combat, and doubt not that I would have taken passage when I did and as I did, had the arch-enemy of mankind himself stood helsman on the little craft that was to bear me to El Dorado.  We had engaged and paid our passage, and such was our eagerness to get a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>The "Ann" was a little launch of about ten tons burden, a mere ship's boat, entirely open, and filled with barrels and merchandise of every kind, and eight human beings, who, besides ourselves, had taken passage in her.  I looked at her,--there was not room upon her deckless hull to stow a brandy bottle securely.  We tried to reason the captain into an idea of the danger of proceeding with so much freight, but the only reply he gave us was, that "he received four dollars a hundred for it."  There was no alternative, so in we jumped, and about dusk the boat was under way, and scudding with a fair wind across the bay of San Francisco.</P>
068.sgm:<P>There was, of course, no room to cook on board, and there was no galley or furnace to cook in; and, indeed, there was nothing to cook, as in our hurry we had neglected to make purchases of any necessary articles of food, and expected to be furnished with our meals among the other accommodations of our boat.  The captain generously offered us some cheese and crackers, and after regaling ourselves on these, we commenced instituting a search for sleeping-places.  It was by this time dark, and black clouds were sweeping over the sky.  The wind had changed, and we were beating off and on Angel Island, while the spray was dashing over our boat's sides, which were nearly level with the water from her great load.  It augured anything but a pleasant night, and here were eleven of us, with a prospect of rain and spray, forced to find some means of sleeping on the pile of barrels or boxes that loaded the boat, or pass a night of sleeplessness.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Sharper-sighted than my companions, I had spied out a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:box of goods lying aft that rose above the mingled mass around it, and upon which, by doubling myself into a most unnatural and ungentlemanly position, I could repose the upper portion of my body, while my heels rested on the chines of a pork-barrel, at an angle of about forty-five degrees above my head.  With a selfishness peculiar to the human race, I appropriated the whole of this couch to myself, and was already in the land of dreams, with bright visions of "big lumps" and bigger piles of gold flitting before my spiritual eyes, when I felt myself roughly shaken, and awaking, found Higgins, one of my companions, standing at my side, who coolly informed me that "my time was up, and it was now his turn."  It seems that, during my absence in the visionary world, a council had been held by all hands, in which it was gravely decided and resolved, <HI REND="italics">First</HI>
068.sgm:, "that there was no other feasible sleeping-place than the box then occupied by me;" <HI REND="italics">Secondly</HI>
068.sgm:, "that it was contrary to the laws of all human society, that one man should appropriate to his own private and individual use <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
068.sgm: of this world's goods;" and <HI REND="italics">Thirdly</HI>
068.sgm:, "that, for the next twenty-four hours, all hands should in rotation take a nap upon the box."  When Higgins woke me, the rain-drops were pattering upon my " <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
068.sgm:<P>Morning at length came, as morning always will, even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The straits of Carquinez are about one mile in width, and six in length, and connect the bay of San Pablo with that of Suisun.  Near the head of the straits and the entrance to Suisun Bay, is placed the city of Benicia.  This town was the first laid out among the new towns of California, and many months before the discovery of the mines gave a tremendous impetus to town making.  Benicia seems destined to become a great city, and perhaps rival San Francisco in point of commercial importance,--possessing, as it unquestionably does, many advantages over it.  The banks are bold and steep, and sufficient depth of water is found here at all seasons for vessels to lie and discharge their cargoes directly at the bank; while at San Francisco the tide only serves once in twenty-four hours, and even then all cargoes are obliged to be transported in launches and scows from the ships, which are forced to lie at some distance from the shore, in consequence of the broad flat in front of the town.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Leaving Benicia, we proceeded into the bay of Suisun, and passing the delta of the San Joaquin, entered the magnificent Sacramento, the Hudson of the western world.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:lofty Palisades are not here; but to the lover of the picturesque and beautiful, the tall oak groves, through which the deer, the elk, and antelope are bounding, the golden hue of the landscape, the snowy peaks of the distant Sierra, the lofty Mount Diablo, and the calm, broad, and placid river, present a scene upon the Sacramento as enchanting as that which broke upon the enraptured vision of old Hendrick Hudson.  At the entrance of the river the land is low and somewhat marshy, being covered with a thick, rank growth of <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
068.sgm:, a species of rush, of which the Indians make baskets, chairs, and many little articles.  On the left bank of the entrance to the Sacramento was the magnificent city of Montezuma, consisting of one unfinished house, through which the autumn winds were rattling.  This is one of the paper towns laid out some three years since, and abandoned since the discovery of the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm: has brought out more favourable points of location.  The Sacramento here is about a mile in width; and to the right, rising up apparently from the end of the <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
068.sgm:<P>At the mouth of the river there is very little timber; but in our progress upward we found the oak and the sycamore growing most luxuriantly; and, extending back on the left bank as far as the eye could reach, a spreading prairie of wild oats and mustard, the latter raising its yellow-flowered head to the height of many feet.  We "tied up" for the nigth about four miles from the entrance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The next day, there being no wind, we were obliged to pull for it, and about dusk reached Hala-chum-muck, or, as it is now called, "Suisun," a city under that cognomen having been laid out here.  The "city" is on the left bank of the river, and about fifteen miles from its mouth, on a bold, high bank, and surrounded by a fine growth of oak timber.  Hala-chum-muck is an old stopping-place on the river; and finding the remains of a house here, we "tied up," and going on shore, and making a fire from the remnants of some boards, which had been pulled from the roof of the house, cooked another supper, and slept on the ground, with a small piece of roof over our heads.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Hala-chum-muck derives its name from an Indian story connected with it.  Many years ago, a party of hunters were encamped here for the night, and being attacked by Indians, after a brave resistance were all killed, with the exception of one, who, as he was escaping, was followed with a cry from the Indians of "Hala-chum-muck" (nothing to eat), probably, as he had been forced to throw down his rifle, signifying thereby that they would leave him to die of starvation.  The spot has, ever since that time, borne the name of "Hala-chum-muck."</P>
068.sgm:<P>There were three families living here, with a stock of cattle, when the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm: were discovered, and Hala-chum-muck was bidding fair to be a town; but on the reception of the golden news, they deserted their ranchos, and the crews of launches which stopped here soon killed off the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>We continued our progress up the river, occasionally stopping and amusing ourselves by firing the woods on either side, and watching the broad flames as they spread and crackled through the underbrush.  On the night of the 30th, we hauled up at the rancho of Schwartz--an old German, of whom Bryant speaks as a man who has forgotten his own language, and never acquired any other.  He is certainly the most curious specimen of humanity it was ever my lot to witness.  He emigrated to California some ten years since, and obtained a grant of six leagues of land, extending up and down the Sacramento River; and in the progress of time he will probably be one of the riches land-holders of California.  He has built upon the bank of the river a little hut of <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
068.sgm:<P>I underwent an operation at Schwartz's rancho, that sealed my full connexion and communion with the region to which I was travelling.  It was no less than an impromptu baptism in the golden waters of the Sacramento.  We had built a fire on shore, and having purchased from Schwartz a few pounds of beef at gold-digger's price, <HI REND="italics">i.e.</HI>
068.sgm: one dollar per pound, had eaten our supper, when I started for the launch, which lay about ten yards from the shore, to get my blankets.  The only conveyance was an old log <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:canoe of Schwartz's; and seating myself in it, in company with one of my companions and an Indian boy he had brought with him, we pushed off.  The Indian was seated in the canoe's bow, and was frightened by the oscillating motion given to it, when it was first pushed off from the shore.  To balance the roll upon one side, he leaned to the other, and finding a corresponding motion in that direction, he reversed his position, and leaning too far, upset the canoe, and all three of us.  I, with a heavy overcoat on, and my rifle in hand, tumbled into about fifteen feet of water.  I dropped the rifle as though it were boiling lead, and made the best of my way to the shore.  We all arrived safely on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The beautiful plain on which is now located the thriving and populous city of Sacramento, was, when I first landed there, untenanted.  There was not a house upon it, the only place of business being an old store-ship laid up upon its bank.  Where now, after a lapse of only one year, a flourishing city with a population of twelve thousand stands, I pitched my tent on the edge of a broad prairie.</P>
068.sgm:<P>To complete the party with which we intended going to the mines, we were obliged to wait at the Embarcadero for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>We pitched our tent, cooked our provisions, and anxiously waited the arrival of the men, a prey to the greatest excitement,--continually hearing as we did, the most extravagant stories from the mining region.  The intense heat of the summer solstice had given way to autumn's cooling breezes, and parties were daily arriving at and leaving the Embarcadero; the former with their pockets well lined with gold dust, and the latter with high hopes and beating hearts.</P>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Arrival of our Party--The Mountaineer--A "prospecting" Expedition--The Start--California Skies in November--A Drenching--Go-ahead Higgins--"Camp Beautiful"--John the Irishman--The Indian's Grave--A "rock" Speech--The Return--Herd of Antelope--Johnson's Rancho--Acorn Gathering--Indian Squaws--Novel Costume--The Rancheria--Pule-u-le--A Bear Fight.</P>
068.sgm:<P>ON the 7th of November our party arrived,--their horses, of which they brought five, jaded with the travel in the mountains; and it was not until the 16th that we were able to make a start.  Being, of course, entirely ignorant of the best locality to which to proceed, and being all young, strong, and enthusiastic, we determined to strike out a new path, and go on an exploring expedition in the mountains, in the hope that fortune would throw in our way the biggest of all lumps, and that we might possibly find the fountain head of El Dorado, where, gushing in a rich and golden lava from the heart of the great Sierra, a stream of molten gold should appear before our enraptured eyes.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Fortune, or rather misfortune, favoured us in this project.  We were visited one evening in camp by a man, who informed us that he had recently been on a "prospecting" expedition with a party of three others, and that after nearly reaching, as he thought, the fountain head of gold, the party was attacked by Indians, and all, with the exception of himself, killed.  The "prospect," he told us, was most favourable, and learning from him the direction of the mountains in which he had been, with two pack-horses lightly laden <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>We crossed the Rio de los Americanos about a mile above Sutter's Fort, and, encamping upon its opposite bank, started on the morning of the 17th.  The sky promised a heavy rain storm; nothing daunted, however, we pushed on in the direction of the Bear River settlements, and about noon the sky's predictions were most fully realized.  The rain fell in big drops, and soon broke upon us in torrents.  The wind blew a hurricane, and we were in the apparent centre of an open prairie, with a row of sheltering trees about four miles distant, mockingly beckoning us to seek protection beneath their thick and wide-spreading branches.</P>
068.sgm:<P>We pushed on, and succeeded in reaching the trees, which proved to be evergreen oaks, in a little more than an hour, wet to the skin.  The little clothing we had brought with us, and packed upon the horses' backs, was also wet, and our bread reduced to the consistency of paste.  We were dispirited, but managed to build a fire beneath the trees, and remained there throughout the day.  The rain ceased at nightfall, and making a sorry supper from our wet bread and slimy meat, we stretched ourselves on the ground, wrapped in our blankets, heartily cursing our folly in travelling out of the beaten track with the hopes of rendering ourselves rich and our names immortal.  But tired men will sleep even in wet blankets and on muddy ground, and we were half compensated in the morning for our previous day's adventures and misfortunes by as bright a sunshine and clear a sky as ever broke upon a prairie.  Gathering up our provisions, we made a start, for the purpose of reaching, before night set in, a ravine, where we were, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>About dusk we reached a dry "arroyo," which we supposed to be the one indicated on the rough draft of the road we were to travel, given us by the mountaineer who had first impressed our minds with the idea of this expedition.  We unpacked, built a roaring fire in the centre of the <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The tantalizing morning again broke fair, and it was decided to remain where we were throughout the day, and make another attempt at drying our provisions, and at the same time fully decide what to do.  Two of the party (myself included) wished either to turn back and try some other part of the "diggins," or proceed on the main road which we had been travelling, and near which we were then encamped, directly to the Yuba River, at a distance, as we supposed, of about thirty miles.  But the go-ahead party was too powerful for us, and, headed by Higgins, a man of the most indomitable perseverance, pictured to us the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>We travelled up the "arroyo" till nearly sunset, when we struck the foot-hills of the mountains.  We had seen no foot-tracks, except an occasional naked one of an Indian, and I became fully satisfied that we had taken the wrong "arroyo" as our diverging point.  The ground over which we had travelled that day was a miserable stony soil, with here and there a scrubby oak tree growing.  As we struck the foot of the mountains the scene was changed.  Rich, verdant, and fertile-looking valleys opened out before us, and tall oaks threw a luxuriant, lengthened evening shadow upon the gentle slope of their ascent.  We entered the midst of these valleys, and, after proceeding nearly a mile, came to the prettiest camping spot I ever saw.  An expansion of the valley formed a circular plain of about a mile, in diameter, surrounded on all sides, excepting at its one narrow entrance, with green, tree-covered, and lofty hills.  A tall growth of grass and wild oats, interspersed with beautiful blue and yellow autumnal flowers, covered the plain, and meandering through it, with a thousand windings, was a silvery stream, clear as crystal, from which we and our thirsty horses drank our fill, and relished the draught, I believe, better than the gods ever did their nectar.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>We selected a gentle slope, beneath a huge rock, near the western hill-side, for our camping ground, and, again building a fire, were about to content ourselves with a supper of mouldy bread, when a jolly son of the Emerald Isle who was one of our party, in diving among the little bags of which our packs consited, found one of burnt and ground coffee, which we did not know we possessed, and another of sugar, both to be sure a little wet, but nevertheless welcome.  Talk of the delights of sipping the decoction of the "brown berry" after a hearty dinner at "Delmonico's!"  That dish of hot coffee, drunk out of my quart tin pot, in which also I had boiled it, was a more luxurious beverage to me than the dew-drops in a new-blown rose could be to a fairy.  I slept delightfully under its influence till midnight, when I was called to stand my turn of guard duty, which, as we were in an Indian region, all knew to be necessary; and I, who so often with my sword belted around me, had commanded guard as their officer, watched post with my old rifle for nearly two hours.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The day broke as clear and beautiful upon our enchanting valley as the previous one had closed.  After partaking of another pot of hot coffee and some mouldy bread, I took a stroll across the little stream, with my rifle for my companion, while the others, more enthusiastic, started in search of gold.  I crossed the plain, and found, at the foot of the hill on the other side, a deserted Indian hut, built of bushes and mud.  The fire was still burning on the mud hearth, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>Leaving this spot, I returned to camp, and, as the gold-hunters had not yet come back, still continued to stroll around it.  The top of the rock beneath which we had slept was covered with deep and regularly made holes, like those found in the rocks where rapids of rivers have fallen for centuries and worn them out.  It was long before I could account for the existence of these, but finally imagined, what I afterwards found to be the fact, that they were made by the continual pounding of the Indians in mashing their acorns.  In the vicinity I observed several groves of a species of white oak ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus longiglanda</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The gold-hunters finally returned, and with elongated countenances reported that, though they had diligently searched every little ravine around our camp, the nearest they could come to gold-finding was some beautiful specimens of mica, which John the Irishman brought in with him, insisting that it was "pure goold."  We camped again in the valley that night, and the next morning held another council as to what we should do and whither we should go.  Higgins, as usual, was for going ahead; I was for backing out; and the little party formed itself into two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:factions, Higgins at the head of one, and I of the other.  Mounting the rock, I made not exactly a "stump," but a "rock" speech, in which, to my own satisfaction, and, as it proved, to that of the majority of the party, I explained the madness of the idea of starting into the mountains on foot, without a guide, and with but about two or three days' provisions remaining.  We had seen but few deer so far, and knew not whether there were any in the mountains.  I recommended that we should immediately pack up, and strike what we thought to be the best course for Johnson's Rancho, on Bear River, about fifteen miles from Yuba.  I succeeded, and we packed up and retraced our steps, with somewhat heavy hearts, down the little valley.  We left our blessing on the lovely spot, named our camping ground "Camp Beautiful," and proceeded on our way, following the base of the mountains.  There was no road, and we knew not whither we were going, only that we were in the right direction.  The country outside of the mountains was miserably poor and barren, the soil being covered with a rocky flint.  It is entirely destitute of timber, excepting on the banks of the "arroyos," which were then dry, and are all skirted with magnificent evergreen oaks.  We were travelling in a northwesterly direction, and hoped to reach Bear River at night; coming, however, to a little stream, we camped upon its margin, and the next day started again, refreshed by a good night's sleep, but dispirited from our ignorance of where we were, or whither we were going, besides being foot-sore from our travel over the flinty pebbles.  About noon we saw, at a distance of some three or four miles, an immense flock of what we took to be sheep.  Elated at the prospect of being near a rancho, we speedily unpacked a horse, and using the pack lashing for a bridle, I mounted him, and galloped at full speed in the direction of the flock, hoping to find <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>We travelled on slowly, for we were wearied and heartsick, and at about four o'clock in the afternoon, having traversed a very circuitous route, the horses were unpacked and the small quantity of remaining provisions put in our pockets.  Higgins, the owner of one of the horses, mounted his, and John the Irishman, who was suffering with a rheumatic complaint, the other.  I was so weary and weak that I could scarcely support myself, and my feet were so covered with blisters, and so swollen, that every step I took seemed like treading on sharpened spikes.  How I wished myself back in "Camp Beautiful,"--in Texas--anywhere but where I was.  I was lagging behind the party, when John, turning round, saw me, and stopped his horse; as I came up to him he dismounted and forced me to take his place.  God bless thee! generous Irishman.  Beneath a rough exterior he had a heart which beat with feelings and emotions to which many a proud bosom is a stranger.  How I loaded him with thanks, and only received his unsophisticated reply, that I "was tireder than he was."  About dark we struck a stream of water, and all but Higgins were ready and glad to camp and eat the last remains of the mouldy bread and beef.  The persevering energy of Higgins had not in the least degree failed him, and without getting off his horse, he bade us "good-bye," and assured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>We procured some provisions here, and started for the Yuba, and without any mishaps reached the camping ground, about three miles from the river, early in the afternoon.  We camped, and Higgins and myself started on a hunting expedition, for the purpose of getting some game for supper.  We made our way into the hills, and were travelling slowly, trailing our rifles, when we stopped suddenly, dumbfounded, before two of the most curious and uncouth-looking objects that ever crossed my sight.  They were two Indian women, engaged in gathering acorns.  They were entirely naked, with the exception of a <HI REND="italics">coyote</HI>
068.sgm: skin extending from the waists to the knees.  Their heads were shaved, and the tops of them covered with a black tarry paint, and a huge pair of military whiskers were daubed on their cheeks with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:the same article.  They had with them two conical-shaped wicker baskets, in which they were placing the acorns, which were scattered ankle deep around them.  Higgins, with more gallantry than myself, essayed a conversation with them, but made a signal failure, as after listening to a few sentences in Spanish and English, they seized their acorn baskets and ran.  The glimpse we had taken of these mountain beauties, and our failure to enter into any conversation with them, determined us to pay a visit to their headquarters, which we knew were near by.  Watching their footsteps in their rapid flight, we saw them, after descending a hill, turn up a ravine, and disappear.  We followed in the direction which they had taken, and soon reached the Indian <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
068.sgm:.  It was located on both sides of a deep ravine, across which was thrown a large log as a bridge, and consisted of about twenty circular wigwams, built of brush, plastered with mud, and capable of containing three or four persons.  As we entered, we observed our flying beauties, seated on the ground, pounding acorns on a large rock indented with holes similar to those which so puzzled me at "Camp Beautiful."  We were suddenly surrounded upon our entrance by thirty or forty male Indians, entirely naked, who had their bows and quivers slung over their shoulders, and who stared most suspiciously at us and our rifles.  Finding one of them who spoke Spanish, I entered into a conversation with him--told him we had only come to pay a visit to the <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
068.sgm:, and, as a token of peace offering, gave him about two pounds of musty bread and some tobacco which I happened to have in my game-bag.  This pleased him highly, and from that moment till we left, <HI REND="italics">Pule-u-le</HI>
068.sgm:, as he informed me his name was, appeared my most intimate and sworn friend.  I apologized to him for the unfortunate fright which we had caused a portion of his household, and assured him that no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>Pule-u-le showed us the bows and arrows, and never have I seen more beautiful specimens of workmanship.  The bows were some three feet long, but very elastic and some of them beautifully carved, and strung with the intestines of birds.  The arrows were about eighteen inches in length, accurately feathered, and headed with a perfectly clear and transparent green crystal, of a kind which I had never before seen, notched on the sides, and sharp as a needle at the point.  The arrows, of which each Indian had at least twenty, were carried in a quiver made of <HI REND="italics">coyote</HI>
068.sgm:<P>I asked Pule-u-le if he had ever known of the existence of gold prior to the entrance of white men into the mines.  His reply was that, where he was born, about forty miles higher up the river, he had, when a boy, picked it from the rocks in large pieces, and amused himself by throwing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:them into the river as he would pebbles.  A portion of the tribe go daily to the Yuba River, and wash out a sufficient amount of gold to purchase a few pounds of flour, or some sweetmeats, and return to the <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
068.sgm:<P>Highly pleased with our visit, and receiving a very earnest invitation to "call again," we left the <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
068.sgm: and proceeded towards the camp.  About half way from the <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
068.sgm: a loud braying, followed by a fierce growl, attracted our attention, and in a few moments a frightened mule, closely pursued by an enormous grizzly bear, descended the hill-side within forty yards of where we stood leaning on our rifles.  As the bear reached the road, Higgins, with his usual quickness and intrepidity, fired, and an unearthly yell from the now infuriated animal told with what effect.  The mule in the interval had crossed the road, and was now scampering away over the plains, and Bruin, finding himself robbed of his prey, turned upon us.  I levelled my rifle and gave him the contents with hearty good will, but the wounds he had received only served to exasperate the monster, who now made towards us with rapid strides.  Deeming prudence the better part of valour, we ran with all convenient speed in the direction of the camp, within a hundred yards of which my foot became entangled in the underbrush, and I fell headlong upon the earth.  In another instant I should have fallen a victim to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Yuba River--A Clean Shirt an Expensive Luxury--Yankee Pedler--The Upper and Lower Diggings--Foster's Bar--The Gold-Rocker--Gold-Digging and Gold-Washing--Return to the Embarcadero--Captain John A. Sutter--Curious Currency--Sutter's Fort--Sam. Brannan and Co.--Washing Clothes--Salmon Shooting--Green Springs--Weaver's Creek--A Teamster's Bill.</P>
068.sgm:<P>NEXT morning early, in better spirits than we had enjoyed for a week previously, we started for Yuba River.  About a mile from the camping-place we struck into the mountains, the same range at whose base we had been before travelling, and which are a portion of the Sierra Nevada.  The hills here were steep and rugged, but covered with a magnificent growth of oak and red-wood.  As we reached the summit of a lofty hill, the Yuba River broke upon our view, winding like a silver thread beneath us, its banks dotted with white tents, and fringed with trees and shrubbery.</P>
068.sgm:<P>We had at last reached the "mines," although a very different portion of them than that for which we started.  We turned out our tired horses, and immediately set forth on an exploring expedition.  As my clothing was all dirty and wet, I concluded to indulge in the luxury of a new shirt, and going down to the river found a shrewd Yankee in a tent surrounded by a party of naked Indians, and exposing for sale jerked beef at a dollar a pound, flour at a dollar and a half do., and for a coarse striped shirt which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:I picked up with the intention of purchasing, he coolly asked me the moderate price of sixteen dollars!  I looked at my dirty shirt, then at the clean new one I held in my hand, and finally at my little gold bag, not yet replenished by digging, and concluded to postpone my purchase until I had struck my pick and crowbar into the bowels of the earth, and extracted therefrom at least a sufficiency to purchase a shirt.  The diggings on Yuba River had at that time been discovered only about three months, and were confined entirely to the "bars," as they are called, extending nearly a mile each way from where the road strikes the river, on both its banks.  The principal diggings were then called the "upper" and the "lower diggings," each about half a mile above and below the road.  We started for the upper diggings to "see the elephant," and winding through the hills, for it was impossible to travel all the way on the river's bank, struck the principal bar then wrought on the river.  This has since been called Foster's Bar, after an American who was then keeping a store there, and who had a claim on a large portion of the bar.  Upon reaching the bar, a curious scene presented itself.  About one hundred men, in miner's costume, were at work, performing the various portions of the labour necessary in digging the earth and working a rocking machine.  The apparatus then used upon the Yuba River, and which has always been the favourite assistant of the gold-digger, was the common rocker or cradle, constructed in the simplest manner.  It consists of nothing more than a wooden box or hollowed log, two sides and one end of which are closed, while the other end is left open.  At the end which is closed and called the "mouth" of the machine, a sieve, usually made of a plate of sheet iron, or a piece of raw hide, perforated with holes about half an inch in diameter, is rested upon the sides.  A number of "bars" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:or "rifflers," which are little pieces of board from one to two inches in height, are nailed to the bottom, and extend laterally across it.  Of these, there are three or four in the machine, and one at the "tail," as it is called, i. e. the end where the dirt is washed out.  This, with a pair of rockers like those of a child's cradle, and a handle to rock it with, complete the description of the machine, which being placed with the rockers upon two logs, and the "mouth" elevated at a slight angle above the tail, is ready for operation.  Modified and improved as this may be, and as in fact it already has been, so long as manual labour is employed for washing gold, the "cradle" is the best agent to use for that purpose.  The manner of procuring and washing the golden earth was this.  The loose stones and surface earth being removed from any portion of the bar, a hole from four to six feet square was opened, and the dirt extracted therefrom was thrown upon a raw hide placed at the side of the machine.  One man shovelled the dirt into the sieve, another dipped up water and threw it on, and a third rocked the "cradle."  The earth, thrown upon the sieve, is washed through with the water, while the stones and gravel are retained and thrown off.  The continued motion of the machine, and the constant stream of water pouring through it, washes the earth over the various bars or rifflers to the "tail," where it runs out, while the gold, being of greater specific gravity, sinks to the bottom, and is prevented from escaping by the rifflers.  When a certain amount of earth has been thus washed (usually about sixty pans full are called "a washing"), the gold, mixed with a heavy black sand, which is always found mingled with gold in California, is taken out and washed in a tin pan, until nearly all the sand is washed away.  It is then put into a cup or pan, and when the day's labour is over is dried before the fire, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>On this visit to Foster's Bar I made my first essay in gold-digging.  I scraped up with my hand my tin cup full of earth, and washed it in the river.  How eagerly I strained my eyes as the earth was washing out, and the bottom of the cup was coming in view! and how delighted, when, on reaching the bottom, I discerned about twenty little golden particles sparkling in the sun's rays, and worth probably about fifty cents.  I wrapped them carefully in a piece of paper, and preserved them for a long time,--but, like much more gold in larger quantities, which it has since been my lot to possess, it has escaped my grasp, and where it now is Heaven only knows.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The labour on Yuba River appeared very severe, the excavations being sometimes made to a depth of twelve <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>We concluded to return to the <HI REND="italics">Embarcadero</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The history of John A. Sutter, and his remarkable settlement on the banks of the Sacramento, has been one of interest since California first began to attract attention.  Captain Sutter is by birth a Swiss, and was formerly an officer in the French army.  He emigrated to the United States, became a naturalized citizen, and resided in Missouri several years.  In the year 1839 he emigrated to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:the then wilderness of California, where he obtained a large grant of land, to the extent of about eleven leagues, bordering on the Sacramento River, and made a settlement directly in the heart of an Indian country, among tribes of hostile savages.  For a long time he suffered continual attacks and depredations from the Indians, but finally succeeded, by kind treatment and good offices, in reducing them to subjection, and persuading them to come into his settlement, which he called New Helvetia.  With their labour he built a large fort of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
068.sgm:<P>Sutter's Fort is a large parallelogram, of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
068.sgm: walls, five hundred feet long by one hundred and fifty broad.  Port-holes are bored through the walls, and at its corners are bastions, on which cannon are mounted.  But when I arrived there its hostile appearance was entirely forgotten in the busy scenes of trade which it exhibited.  The interior of the fort, which had been used by Sutter for granaries and storehouses, was rented to merchants, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>With all our worldly gear packed in an ox-wagon, we left Sutter's Fort on the morning of the 1st of December, and travelling about seven miles on the road, encamped in a beautiful grove of evergreen oak, to give the cattle an opportunity to lay in a sufficient supply of grass and acorns, preparatory to a long march.  As we were to remain here during the day, we improved the opportunity by taking our dirty clothing, of which by that time we had accumulated a considerable quantity, down to the banks of the American Fork, distant about one mile from camp, for the purpose of washing.  While we were employed in this laborious but useful occupation, Higgins called my attention to the salmon which were working up the river over a little rapid opposite us.  Some sport suggested itself; and more anxious for this than labour, we dropped our half-washed shirts, and started back to camp for our rifles, which we soon procured, and brought down to the river.  In making their way over the bar, the backs of the salmon were exposed some two inches above water; and the instant one appeared, a well-directed rifle-ball perforated his spine.  The result was, that before dark Higgins and myself carried into camp thirty-five splendid salmon, procured by this novel mode of sport.  We luxuriated on them, and gave what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>Next morning we packed up and made a fresh start.  That night we encamped at the "Green Springs," about twenty-five miles distant from Sutter's Fort.  These springs are directly upon the road, and bubble up from a muddy black loam, while around them is the greenest verdure,--the surrounding plain being dotted with beautiful groves and magnificent flowers.  Their waters are delicious.</P>
068.sgm:<P>As the ox-team was a slow traveller, and quarters were to be looked for in our new winter home, on the next morning Higgins and myself were appointed a deputation to mount two horses we had brought with us and proceed post-haste to the "dry diggings."  We started at 10 A. M., and travelled through some beautiful valleys and over lofty hills.  As we reached the summit of a high ridge, we paused by common consent to gaze upon the landscape and breathe the delicious air.  The broad and fertile valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin lay stretched at our feet like a highly coloured map.  The noble rivers which lend their names to these rich valleys were plainly visible, winding like silver threads through dark lines of timber fringing their banks; now plunging amid dense forests, and now coming in view sparkling and bright as the riches they contain; the intermediate plains, here parched and browned with the sun's fierce rays; there brilliant with all the hues of the rainbow, and dotted with the autumnal flowers and open groves of evergreen oak.  Herds of elk, black-tailed deer, and antelope browsed near the mountain sides, on the summit of which the eagle builds his eyry.  The surrounding atmosphere, fragrant with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>Next morning our party arrived with the team, and from the representations of our friends, we concluded to remain at Weaver's Creek, and pitched our tent on the banks of the stream.  Our teamster's bill was something of an item to men who were not as yet accustomed to "gold-mine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Our Log Cabin--Pi-pita-tua--Increase of our Party--The Dry Diggings of Weaver's Creek--The "Pockets" and "Nests"--Theory of the Gold Region--My First Day's Labour in the <HI REND="italics">Placers</HI>
068.sgm:<P>THE day after our arrival, in anticipation of the immediate commencement of the rainy season (a time dreaded by strangers in all California, and particularly in the northern region), we determined to build a log house, and were about to commence operations, when we received an offer for the sale of one.  We examined it, and found a little box of unhewn logs, about twenty feet long by ten wide, which was offered us at the moderate price of five hundred dollars.  The terms, however, were accommodating, being ten days' credit for the whole amount.  With the reasonable expectation that we could pay for our house by gold-digging in a less time than it would require to build one, we purchased it, and ere nightfall were duly installed in the premises.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Our party now consisted of ten, viz.: Higgins and a Marquesas Islander he had picked up somewhere, and who had changed his heathenish appellation of <HI REND="italics">Pi-pita-tua</HI>
068.sgm: to the more Christian and civilized name of "Bob;" five of our disbanded volunteers; a man by the name of Russell, the same of whom Dana speaks in his "Two Years before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The "dry diggings" of Weaver's Creek being a fair specimen of dry diggings in all parts of the mining region, a description of them will give the reader a general idea of the various diggings of the same kind in California.  They are called "dry" in contradistinction to the "wet" diggings, or those lying directly on the banks of streams, and where all the gold is procured by washing.  As I before said, the stream coursed between lofty tree-clad hills, broken on both sides of the river into little ravines or gorges.  In these ravines most of the gold was found.  The loose stones and top earth being thrown off, the gravelly clay that followed it was usually laid aside for washing, and the digging continued until the bottom rock of the ravine was reached, commonly at a depth of from one to six feet.  The surface of this rock was carefully cleared off, and usually found to contain little crevices and holes, the latter in miner's parlance called "pockets," and in which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>The gold, which, by some great volcanic eruption, has been scattered upon the soil over an extensive territory, by the continual rains of the winter season has been sunk <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>Our party's first day's labour produced one hundred and fifty dollars, I having been the most successful of all.  But we were satisfied, although our experience had not fulfilled the golden stories we had heard previous to our reaching the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>About this time, the most extravagant reports reached us from the Middle Fork, distant in a northerly direction about thirty miles from Weaver's Creek.  Parties who had been there described the river as being lined with gold of the finest quality.  One and two hundred dollars was not considered a great day's labour, and now was the time to take advantage of it, while in its pristine richness.  The news was too blooming for me to withstand.  I threw down my pickaxe, and leaving a half-wrought crevice for some other digger to work out, I packed up and held myself in readiness to proceed by the earliest opportunity, and with the first party ready to go for the Middle Fork.  An opportunity soon offered itself, as a party of three who had already been there and returned, were about proceeding thither again.  We considered it a great act of generosity on their part to allow us to accompany them on their second trip, as during their first exploration on the river they had found a place where no white man had ever before trod, and where gold was said to exist in large pockets and huge bulky masses.  One of my companions and myself determined to go, and if successful inform our whole party, who were then to follow.</P>
068.sgm:<P>It was now near the middle of December, and the dreaded rainy season we knew must soon commence.  Occasional black clouds dimming the clearness of that mountain sky gave us warning of it; but strong in health, and stronger still in hope and determination, we heeded no warning; put our instruments of labour on the backs of two sorry-looking mules, and shouldering our rifles started away from Weaver's Creek on a fine afternoon, the clear sunshine and cooling autumn breeze playing through the lofty oak and cypress trees, giving us new vigour and new hope.</P>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>Our road for the first three miles lay across a lofty hill, which formed the dividing line (although that hill was anything but an "imaginary point extended") between our little community at Weaver's Creek and the "Dry Diggings" <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
068.sgm:<P>Passing to the northward of the Dry Diggings, we encamped at dusk in a little oak grove about three miles from Sutter's Mill, killed a deer, ate a hearty supper, spread our blankets on the ground, and slept quietly and peacefully beneath a star-studded and cloudless heaven.  Next morning we went into Culoma, the Indian name for the territory around Sutter's Mill, and here we were to purchase our provisions previous to going to the river.  Three stores only, at that time, disputed the trade at what is now the great centre of the northern mining region; and where now are busy streets, and long rows of tents and houses, was a beautiful hollow, which, in our romantic version, we named as we were entering it, "The Devil's Punch-Bowl."  Surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains, its ingress and egress guarded by an ascent and descent through narrow passes, it seemed like a huge bowl <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Sutter's Mill--Discovery of the Placers--Marshall and Bennett--Great Excitement--Desertion of the <HI REND="italics">Pueblos</HI>
068.sgm:, and general Rush for the Mines--Gold Mine Prices--Descent into a <HI REND="italics">Canon</HI>
068.sgm:<P>DURING the month of January, 1848, two men, named Marshall and Bennett, were engaged in the erection of a saw-mill located by John A. Sutter on the South Fork of the American River, at a point, where oak, pine, cypress, and cedar trees covered the surrounding hills, and where Indian labour was to be procured at a mere nominal price.  These were the motives that prompted Sutter to establish a mill and trading post in this, then unknown, region.  Little did he imagine or foresee that, in the hands of an overruling Providence, he was to be the instrument to disclose to mankind riches of which the most sanguine daydreamer never dreamt, and open caves in which the wonderful lamp of Aladdin would have been dimmed by the surrounding brightness.</P>
068.sgm:<P>One morning Marshall, while examining the tail-race of the mill, discovered, much to his astonishment, some small shining particles in the sand at the bottom of the race, which upon examination he became satisfied were gold.  Not content, however, with his own investigations, some specimens which were found throughout the whole race were sent to San Francisco by Bennett, where an assayer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:removed all doubt of their nature and purity.  The discovery was kept a profound secret while Bennett proceeded to Monterey and tried to obtain a grant of the land on which the gold had been found from Colonel Mason, then Governor of the Territory.  Colonel Mason informed him, however, that he had no authority to make any such conveyance, and Bennett returned to San Francisco, where he exhibited his specimens to Sam. Brannan, Mr. Hastings, and several others.  A number of persons immediately visited the spot, and satisfied their curiosity.  Captain Sutter himself came to San Francisco, and confirmed the statements of Bennett, and about the 1st of April, the story became public property.  Of course, the news spread like wild fire, and in less than one week after the news reached Monterey, one thousand people were on their way to the gold region.  The more staid and sensible citizens affected to view it as an illusion, and cautioned the people against the fearful reaction that would inevitably ensue.  Yet many a man who one day boldly pronounced the discovery a humbug, and the gold-hunters little better than maniacs, was seen on the morrow stealthily wending his way, with a tin pan and shovel concealed beneath his cloak or <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
068.sgm:, to a launch about proceeding up the golden Sacramento.  Before the middle of July, the whole lower country was depopulated.  Rancheros left their herds to revel in delightful liberty upon the hills of their ranchos; merchants closed their stores, lawyers left their clients, doctors their patients, soldiers took "French leave." Colonel Mason, then Governor of California, was himself seized with the "mania," and taking his adjutant and an escort, started for the mines, "in order to be better able to make a report to the Government."  The alcalde of San Francisco stopped the wheels of justice, and went also.  Every idler in the country, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>In San Francisco, the very headquarters of all the business in California, there were, at this time, but seven male inhabitants, and but one store open.  In the mean time the most extravagant stories were in circulation.  Hundreds and sometimes even thousands of dollars were spoken of as the reward of a day's labour.  Indians were said to pay readily a hundred dollars for a blanket, sixteen for a bottle of grog, and everything else in proportion.  In the mean time, new discoveries had been made at Mormon Island, as far north as the Yuba River, and as far south as the Stanislaus; and the mining population had swelled to about three thousand.  The stories that had been put in circulation in regard to the richness of the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm:<P>But I have digressed in my narrative, and must now return to Culoma.  We purchased from one of the stores two hundred pounds of flour, for which we paid three hundred dollars, one hundred pounds of pork for two hundred dollars, and sugar and coffee at a dollar a pound, amounting to another hundred dollars, making in all six hundred dollars expended for about two months' provisions.  We crossed the South Fork, and mounting a lofty hill overlooking the river, encamped for the night on its summit.  The next day we descended the hill, and passing through a long and watered valley, struck the "divide" or ridge, which overhangs the river at a point three miles above the "Spanish Bar," at dusk.  We again encamped, anxious for a long and invigorating sleep to prepare us for a descent in the morning.</P>
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068.sgm:<P>The hill was so steep and entirely trackless and covered with such a thick scrubby brush, that we abandoned the idea which we had entertained of leading our mules with their packs on down to the river; and distributing the load, each one took his share of the half of it, and commenced the terrible descent into the <HI REND="italics">canon</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The banks of the Middle Fork, on which we encamped, were rugged and rocky.  Awful and mysterious mountains of huge granite boulders towered aloft with solemn grandeur, seeming piled up upon each other as though some destroying angel had stood on the summit of the lofty hills and cast promiscuously these rocks headlong down the steep.</P>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>What a wild scene was before us!  A river rapidly coursing through a pile of rocks, and on each side of it hills that seemed to reach the clouds.  The mountains that overlook this river are about two miles in height, and are probably as difficult of travel as any in the world.</P>
068.sgm:<P>It puzzled us greatly to find a camping-place, although we had no tent to pitch, and only wanted room to spread our blankets on a rock.  I searched the river up and down for fifty yards in this laudable endeavour, and finally succeeded in finding a little triangular crevice, formed by two boulders resting against each other, into which I crept, and slept that night, with the pleasant anticipation that the rocks above might possibly give way, in which case my golddigging dreams would meet with a woful denouement by my being crushed to atoms.  No such fate overtook me, however, and the next morning I arose fresh and hearty, to commence my first day's labour on the golden banks of the Middle Fork.</P>
068.sgm:<P>We had packed on the back of one of our mules a sufficient number of boards from Culoma to construct a machine, and the morning after our arrival placed two of our party at work for this purpose, while the rest of us were to dig; and, taking our pans, crowbars, and picks, we commenced operations.  Our first attempt was to search around the base of a lofty boulder, which weighed probably some twenty tons, in hopes of finding a crevice in the rock on which it rested, in which a deposit of gold might have been made; nor were we unsuccessful.  Around the base of the rock was a filling up of gravel and clay, which we removed with much labour, when our eyes were gladdened with the sight of gold strewn all over its surface, and intermixed with a blackish sand.  This we gathered up and washed in our pans, and ere night four of us had dug and washed twenty-six ounces of gold, being about four hundred and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The next day, our machine being ready, we looked for a place to work it, and soon found a little beach, which extended back some five or six yards before it reached the rocks.  The upper soil was a light black sand, on the surface of which we could see the particles of gold shining, and could in fact gather them up with our fingers.  In digging below this, we struck a red, stony gravel that appeared perfectly alive with gold, shining and pure.  We threw off the top earth and commenced our washings with the gravel, which proved so rich, that, excited by curiosity, we weighed the gold extracted from the first washing of fifty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>Our camp was merry that night.  Seated on the surface of a huge rock, we cooked and ate our venison, drank our coffee, and revelled in the idea that we had stolen away from the peopled world, and were living in an obscure corner, unseen by its inhabitants, with no living being within many miles of us, and in a spot where gold was almost as plentiful as the pebble stones that covered it.</P>
068.sgm:<P>After working three days with the machine, the earth we had been washing began to give out, and it became necessary for us to look for a new place: accordingly on the fourth morning, we commenced "prospecting."  Three of us started down, and three up the river.  I sauntered on ahead of the party on the lower expedition until, about three hundred yards from camp, I found a pile of rocks that I thought afforded a reasonable "prospect."  I started down to the river bank, and seated myself at the foot of a vast rock to look around me.  I observed above me, and running in a direct course down the rocky bank, a large crevice, which I carefully searched as high up as I could reach, but found only a very small quantity of gold.  Being disappointed in this, I determined to trace the crevice to its outlet, confident that there a deposit of gold must have been made.  I traced the crevice down nearly to the edge of the water, where it terminated in a large hole or pocket, on the face of a rock which was filled with closely packed gravel.  With a knife and spoon I dug this out, and till when near the bottom of the pocket, I found the earth which I brought up in my spoon contained gold, and the last spoonful I took from the pocket was nearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>The gold thus found in pockets and crevices upon the river banks, is washed from the hills above them.  In searching for the course of the metal, I have found small quantities by digging on the hill-tops, and am fully persuaded that the gold is washed by the rains, until seeking, as it always does, a permanent bottom, it rests in any pocket or crevice that can prevent it from being washed further, or falls into a stream running at the base of the hills, to find a resting-place in its bed, or be again deposited on its banks.  If this theory be true, the beds of the rivers whose banks contain gold must be very rich in the precious metal, and recent labours in damming and turning the courses of certain portions of them, have so proved.  The richest deposits of gold upon the rivers are found on what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>There are two theories upon which the superior richness of the bars can be accounted for.  The first is, that the river in its annual overflows has made the deposits of gold here, and that being more level and broad than the river's banks, they retain a larger quantity of the gold thus deposited.  The other, and the only one that accounts for the formation of the bars themselves, is, that where they now are, the river formerly ran; and that they were once the river's bed, but that from some natural cause, the channel has been changed and a new one made; and thus, are left dry, these large portions of the river's bed which annually receive fresh deposits of gold from it in its overflow.</P>
068.sgm:<P>We were all ready to commence operations on our new place in the morning, when, on waking, we found the sky hazy, and soon after breakfast a severe rain set in.  We crept into our holes and remained there through the day, hoping for a cessation of the rain before the morning, but it continued pouring in torrents.  Never have I seen rain come down as it did then and there; not only the "windows" but the very floodgates "of heaven" seemed opened upon us, and through that doleful night we lay upon our blanketed rocks, listening to the solemn music of the swollen river rushing rapidly by us, and the big rain torrents pouring upon its breast.  In the morning we found that the river had risen four feet, and observing, high above our camp, the marks of the height to which it had attained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Mormon Exploration of the Middle Fork--Headquarters of the Gold-hunters--The North Fork--Smith's Bar--Damming--Great Luck of a Frenchman and his Son--Kelsey's Bar--Rise and Fall of the Rivers--Return to Weaver's Creek--Agricultural Prospects--Culoma Sawmill--An Extensive and Expensive Breakfast--"Prospecting" on the South Fork--Winter Quarters--Snow-storm--A Robbery--Summary Justice--Garcia, Bissi, and Manuel--Lynch Law--Trial for attempt to Murder--Execution of the Accused--Fine Weather--How the Gold became distributed--Volcanic Craters.</P>
068.sgm:<P>THE banks of the Middle Fork have proved richer than those of any other tributary of the Sacramento River.  The fork is the central one of three streams, which rise in the Sierra Nevada, and course their way to the American Fork, a large branch of the Sacramento, into which they empty.  The first exploration of the Middle Fork was made in the latter part of June, 1848, by a party of Mormons who had been at work upon the South Fork, and had left them for the hills in search of richer deposits than were found there.  The first diggings were made at the Spanish Bar, which is about twelve miles in a direct line from Sutter's Mill, and has yielded at least a million of dollars.  The Middle Fork has now been explored to its very source in the Sierra, but has not been found so rich above as it was below.  Since my first trip there, I have travelled for thirty miles on both its banks, and never yet washed a pan of its earth without finding gold in it.  When the immense tide of emigration began to pour in from the United States, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>About ten miles beyond the Middle Fork, and coursing in the same direction, is another stream, the North Fork, whose banks have proved nearly equal in richness to those of the Middle Fork.  Within the past spring and summer some fifteen points on this river have been dammed, the channel turned, and the bed of the river dug. In one case, a party of five dammed the river near what is now called "Smith's Bar."  The time employed in damming off a space of some thirty feet was about two weeks, after which from one to two thousand dollars a day were taken out by the party, for the space of ten days,--the whole amount of gold extracted being fifteen thousand dollars.  Another party above them made another dam, and in one week took out five thousand dollars.  In other cases, where unfavourable points in the river were selected, little or no gold was found; and a fair average of the amount taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>Here is an immense field for a combination of capital and labour. As yet no scientific apparatus has been introduced, and severe manual labour alone has produced such golden results.  When steam and money are united for the purpose, I doubt not that the whole waters of the North and Middle Forks will be turned from their channels, and immense canals dug through the rugged mountains to bear them off.  There are placers upon the Middle Fork, where, within a space of twenty square feet, are lying undisturbed pounds of gold.  This may appear startling; but facts and experience have led me to an analogical mode of reasoning, which has proved it to my own mind conclusively.  A Frenchman and his boy, who were working on the Middle Fork in November, 1848, found a place in the river where they could scrape from the bottom the sands which had gathered in the crevices and pockets of the rocks.  These were washed in a machine, and in four days' time the father and son had taken from the river's bed three thousand dollars, and this with nothing but a hoe and spade.  Two men on Kelsey's Bar, on the Middle Fork, adopted the same process, and in two days washed from the earth, thus procured, fifty pounds of gold, amounting to nearly ten thousand dollars.  The great difficulty in the way of labouring in this manner is, that there are very few places where the water is sufficiently shallow to permit it, and the river bed is so rocky, and the current so strong, that it is only in places where it becomes a pool of still water that the soil can be taken from its bottom.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The width of the Middle Fork is in most places about thirty feet, and that of the North a little less.  The current of both rivers is very strong, being at the rate of five or six miles an hour.  The beds of these rivers are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>During the months of September, October, and November, and sometimes a part of December, the rivers are at their lowest ebb, when the water is from three to eight feet deep in the Middle and North Forks.  In the latter part of December, or the early part of January, when the yearly rains commence, the rivers become swollen, sometimes rising eight or ten feet in the course of a week's rain.  During the winter the rivers are continually rising and falling, as the rains cease or commence again.  About the first of March, the snows which have fallen during the winter begin to melt on the mountains, and flow in little streams down the mountain sides.  Every warm day raises the rivers perceptibly, sometimes to the extent of four feet in a single day, so that in the heat of summer they are fifteen feet higher than in the fall.  The only practicable time for damming is in the fall, or early in the spring.</P>
068.sgm:<P>When I dropped the thread of this narrative, I left myself about to start up the hill on my return with the remainder of the party to Weaver's Creek.  We found the journey up more toilsome than it had been before, as the soil was reduced to a pasty consistency, into which we sank ankle deep at every step, and the rocks were rendered so slimy and slippery by the rain, that it was with great difficulty we could maintain our foothold when climbing over them.  After a tedious three hours' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>We reached the mill about nine o'clock in the morning, a little too late to get a breakfast at one of the stores, where sometimes the proprietor was sufficiently generous to accommodate a traveller with a meal for the moderate price of five dollars.  The only resource was to lay a cloth on the storekeeper's counter, and make a breakfast on crackers, cheese, and sardines.  In order not to make a rush upon the trade, we divided ourselves into three parties, each going to a different store.  Mac and myself went together, and made a breakfast from the following items;--one box of sardines, one pound of sea-biscuit, one pound of butter, a half-pound of cheese, and two bottles of ale.  We ate and drank with great gusto, and, when we had concluded our repast called for the bill.  It was such a curiosity in the annals of a retail grocery business, that I preserved it, and here are the items.  It may remind some of Falstaff's famous bill for bread and sack.</P>
068.sgm:<P>One box of sardines,<HSEP>$16 00</P>
068.sgm:<P>One pound of hard bread,<HSEP>2 00</P>
068.sgm:<P>One pound of butter,<HSEP>6 00</P>
068.sgm:<P>A half-pound of cheese,<HSEP>3 00</P>
068.sgm:<P>Two bottles of ale,<HSEP>16 00</P>
068.sgm:<P>Total,<HSEP>$43 00</P>
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068.sgm:<P>A pretty expensive breakfast, thought we!  If I ever get out of these hills, and sit and sip my coffee and eat an omelet, at a mere nominal expense, in a marble palace, with a hundred waiters at my back, I shall send back a glance of memory at the breakfast I ate at Culoma saw-mill.</P>
068.sgm:<P>We laid over at the mill during the day, and travelled a mile or two up and down the South Fork "prospecting."  It appeared remarkable that here, where the gold was first discovered, and while hundreds and thousands were crowding to the mines, not a single man was at work upon the South Fork.  But very little digging has ever been done at the mill, although I doubt not there will yet be found vast deposits of gold on the banks of the South Fork.  We tried several places, and invariably found gold, but in such small quantities that we thought it would not be profitable to work there; and the day after, as the rain had ceased, we went into Weaver's Creek, with a huge load of blankets on our backs, sweating under a broiling sun.</P>
068.sgm:<P>We found our companions there, anxiously waiting for our return, and eager to listen to the glowing report we made them of our early success, but disappointed almost as much as we were at the unfortunate ending of the affair.  We determined to settle down quietly for the rest of the winter in our log house, and take our chance among the dry diggings.  It had by this time commenced snowing; and from the first until the fifteenth of January it continued falling heavily, so that by the middle of January it was about four feet deep on a level.  All labour was of course suspended, and we lay by in our log house, and amused ourselves by playing cards, reading, washing our clothing, and speculating on the future results of gold-digging.  By the middle of January the snow ceased, and the rain again commenced; and in a few days, the snow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>A scene occurred about this time that exhibits in a striking light, the summary manner in which "justice" is dispensed in a community where there are no legal tribunals.  We received a report  on the afternoon of January 20th, that five men had been arrested at the dry diggings, and were under trial for a robbery.  The circumstances were these:--A Mexican gambler, named Lopez, having in his possession a large amount of money, retired to his room at night, and was surprised about midnight by five men rushing into his apartment, one of whom applied a pistol to his head, while the others barred the door and proceeded to rifle his trunk.  An alarm being given, some of the citizens rushed in, and arrested the whole party.  Next day they were tried by a jury chosen from among the citizens, and sentenced to receive thirty-nine lashes each, on the following morning.  Never having witnessed a punishment inflicted by Lynch-law, I went over to the dry diggings on a clear Sunday morning, and on my arrival, found a large crowd collected around an oak tree, to which was lashed a man with a bared back, while another was applying a raw cowhide to his already gored flesh.  A guard of a dozen men, with loaded rifles pointed at the prisoners, stood ready to fire in case of an attempt being made to escape.  After the whole had been flogged, some fresh charges were preferred against three of the men--two Frenchmen, named Garcia and Bissi, and a Chileno, named Manuel.  These were charged with a robbery and attempt to murder, on the Stanislaus River, during the previous fall.  The unhappy men were removed to a neighbouring house, and being so weak from their punishment as to be unable to stand, were laid stretched upon the floor.  As it was not possible for them to attend, they were tried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:in the open air, in their absence, by a crowd of some two hundred men, who had organized themselves into a jury, and appointed a <HI REND="italics">pro tempore</HI>
068.sgm: judge.  The charges against them were well substantiated, but amounted to nothing more than an attempt at robbery and murder; no overt act being even alleged.  They were known to be bad men, however, and a general sentiment seemed to prevail in the crowd that they ought to be got rid of.  At the close of the trial, which lasted some thirty minutes, the Judge put to vote the question whether they had been proved guilty.  A universal affirmative was the response; and then the question, "What punishment shall be inflicted?" was asked.  A brutal-looking fellow in the crowd, cried out, "Hang them."  The proposition was seconded, and met with almost universal approbation.  I mounted a stump, and in the name of God, humanity, and law, protested against such a course of proceeding; but the crowd, by this time excited by frequent and deep potations of liquor from a neighbouring groggery, would listen to nothing contrary to their brutal desires, and even threatened to hang me if I did not immediately desist from any further remarks.  Somewhat fearful that such might be my fate, and seeing the utter uselessness of further argument with them, I ceased, and prepared to witness the horrible tragedy.  Thirty minutes only were allowed the unhappy victims to prepare themselves to enter on the scenes of eternity.  Three ropes were procured, and attached to the limb of a tree.  The prisoners were marched out, placed upon a wagon, and the ropes put round their necks.  No time was given them for explanation.  They vainly tried to speak, but none of them understanding English, they were obliged to employ their native tongues, which but few of those assembled understood.  Vainly they called for an interpreter, for their cries were drowned by the yells of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The bad weather had cleared off, and our gold-digging life was again commenced; and the little ravines that ran down from the hillsides afforded us ample field for labour.  The regularity and extent with which the gold is scattered in California is remarkable.  When wearied with our continual labour in the immediate vicinity of our house, we would sometimes start on a "prospecting" expedition some five or six miles distant.  During all these searches I have never yet struck a pickaxe into a ravine without finding gold,--sometimes, however, in such small quantities as not to justify the expenditure of individual manual labour.  Through this vast territory it is scattered everywhere, as plentifully as the rich blessings of the Providence that created it.  Our labours usually yielded us sixteen dollars per day to each man throughout the whole winter.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Various have been the speculations upon the manner in which the gold became distributed in the gold-region of California.  Some have supposed that, like the stones that cover the earth's surface, it was always there; and others, that it has sprung from some great fountain-head, and by a tremendous volcanic eruption been scattered over an extensive territory.  With these latter I agree; and observation and experience have proved to me most conclusively the truth of this theory.  The gold found in every placer in California bears the most indubitable marks of having, at some time, been in a molten state.  In many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:parts it is closely intermixed with quartz, into which it has evidently been injected while in a state of fusion; and I have myself seen many pieces of gold completely coated with a black cement that resembled the lava of a volcano.  The variety of form, which the placer gold of California has assumed, is in itself sufficient evidence of the fact that it has been thrown over the surface while in a melted state.  The earliest comparisons of the California gold were to pieces of molten lead dropped into water.  The whole territory of the gold region bears the plainest and most distinct marks of being volcanic.  The soil is of a red, brick colour, in many places entirely barren, and covered with a flinty rock or pebble, entirely parched in the summer, and during the rainy season becoming a perfect mire.  The formation of the hills, the succession of gorges, the entire absence of fertility in many portions, distinctly exhibit the result of a great up-heaving during past times.  But there is one phenomenon in the mining region which defies all geological research founded upon any other premises than volcanic formation.  Throughout the whole territory, so generally that it has become an indication of the presence of gold, a white slate rock is found, and is the principal kind of rock in the mining region.  This rock, instead of lying, as slate rock does in other portions of the earth, in horizontal strata, is perpendicular, or nearly so; seeming to have been torn up from its very bed and left in this position.  On the banks of the Middle Fork are several excavations, which can only be accounted for upon the supposition that they were at some time volcanic craters.  There is one of these on the mountain side, about five miles below the "Big Bar;" from which, running down to the base of the mountains, is a wide gorge entirely destitute of verdure, while the earth around it is covered with shrubbery.  This, I am fully convinced, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Monotonous Life at Weaver's Creek--Dry Diggings Uncertain--Discovery of a Rich Ravine--Great Results of One Day's Labour--Invasion of my Ravine--Weber and Dalor--The Indian Mode of Trading--A Mystery--Settlement of Weaverville--Price of Gold-dust in the Winter of 1848--Gambling--Cost of Provisions--Opening of the Spring--Big Bar--Attack of the Land Scurvy--Symptoms and Treatment--Lucky Discovery--Progress of Culoma--Arrival of the First Steamer--Broadway Dandies wielding Pick and Shovel--Indian Outrages--Capture and Execution of Redskins.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Our life at Weaver's Creek became exceedingly monotonous.  There were about three hundred people then at work at this point, and whenever a new ravine was opened, everybody swarmed to it, and in a few days it was "dug out."  Moreover, dry digging is exceedingly uncertain.  Where it is necessary to search among the crevices of rocks to find the gold deposits, one may at times dig and delve through the whole day without striking a single deposit of gold.  In this respect they are entirely different and far inferior in point of certainty to the wet diggings upon the banks of rivers.  In the latter, where the gold is nearly equally distributed among the earth, a certain amount of labour will produce a certain reward; while in the former, success may not attend the operations of the gold-digger.  There is a remarkable peculiarity in the gold of all dry diggings, which is, that the formation of gold in every ravine is different, so much so that one acquainted with the character <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>Tired of the old ravines, I started one morning into the hills, with the determination of finding a new place, where I could labour without being disturbed by the clang of picks and shovels around me.  Striking in an easterly direction, I crossed a number of hills and gorges, until I found a little ravine about thirty feet in length embosomed amid low undulating hills.  It attracted my attention, I know not why, and clearing off a place about a yard in length, I struck the soil which contained the gold.  The earth on the top was a light black gravel, filled with pebbly stones, which apparently contained no gold.  Below this was another gravel of a reddish colour, and in which the fine particles of gold were so mingled that they shone and sparkled through the whole of it.  A little pool of water, which the rains had formed just below me, afforded a favourable place to test the earth, and scooping up a pan-ful, I took it down and washed it, and it turned out about two dollars.  I continued digging and washing until I reached a slate rock, in the crevices of which I found many little nests or clusters of gold, some of them containing eight or ten dollars.  These latter were intermixed with a heavy red clay from which the gold was almost inseparable.  The gold was of the finest quality, both in size and richness, and I flattered myself that I had here at last found a quiet place, where I could labour alone and undisturbed, and appropriate to myself the entire riches of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:whole ravine.  When I reached and had explored the surface of the slate rock, I tried the experiment of breaking the rock itself into small pieces and washing it.  This proved as rich as the red gravel, turning out two dollars to a pan-ful.  The results of that day's labour were one hundred and ninety dollars worth of gold dust, and I returned to the house with a most profound secrecy resting on my countenance, and took good care not to expose to my companions the good luck I had experienced.  But either my eyes betrayed me, or some prying individual had watched me, for the next morning, when busily at work in my ravine, I found myself suddenly surrounded by twenty good stout fellows, all equipped with their implements of labour.  I could say or do nothing.  Pre-emption rights are things unknown here, and the result of the matter was, that in three days the little ravine, which I had so fondly hoped would be my own property, was turned completely upside down.  About ten thousand dollars worth of gold dust was extracted from it, from which I realized a little over a thousand.  Merely the body of the ravine, however, was dug, and after it was entirely deserted, many a day I went to it, solitary and alone, and took from one to three ounces out of its banks.  In the early discovery of the mines, and the first working of the "dry diggings," it was supposed that the gold existed only in the beds of the ravines.  But since a more philosophical idea of the cause of gold deposits has been entertained, it is found that, in many cases, depending upon the character of the soil, the banks upon each side prove richer in gold than the ravines themselves.  The gold having descended from the hillsides, should it before reaching the ravine strike a rocky gravel or hard clay, will remain there instead of descending farther; and thus it happens universally, that when gold is found upon the sides or banks of a ravine, the soil is of one of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The diggings upon Weaver's Creek were first wrought by a German, Charles M. Weber, a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
068.sgm: on the San Joaquin, who went thither in the early part of June.  He carried with him articles of trade, and soon gathered around him a thousand Indians, who worked for him in consideration of the necessaries of life and of little trinkets that so win an Indian's heart.  He was soon joined by William Dalor, a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
068.sgm: near Sutter's Fort, and the two, together with the labour of the Indians, soon realized at least fifty thousand dollars.  By this time, individual labourers began to come in, and one of Dalor's men one morning started into the hills for newer and fresher diggings.  He struck <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>Indians still frequent this vicinity in considerable numbers, having acquired a taste for the luxuries of mouldy bread, putrescent codfish, and jerked beef, which form so large a portion of the stock in trade of the provision-dealers who supply the miners.  I have often been amused to witness the singular manner in which they make their purchases.  When the gold was first discovered, they had very little conception of its value, and would readily exchange handfuls of it for any article of food they might desire, or any old garment gaudy enough to tickle their fancy.  Latterly, however, they have become more careful, and exhibit a profounder appreciation of the worth of the precious metal.  When they desire to make any purchases from a dealer, they usually go in a party of ten or twelve, and range themselves in a circle, sitting on the ground, a few yards distant from the shop, and then in a certain order of precedence, known to themselves, but not laid down in the learned Selden, they proceed to the counter in rotation, and make their purchases, as follows: placing on the palm of the hand a small leaf or piece of paper, on which is perhaps a tea-spoonful of gold dust, the Indian stalks up to the dealer, and pointing first at his <HI REND="italics">dust</HI>
068.sgm: in hand, and then at whatever article he may desire, gives a peculiar grunt-- <HI REND="italics">Ugh</HI>
068.sgm:!--which is understood to mean an offer; if the dealer shakes his head, the Indian retires, and returns with a little more gold dust, going through the same ceremony continually until a sufficient amount is offered, when the dealer takes it and hands over the coveted article.  The only conceivable object of this mode of proceeding is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>About the first of February, the rains and snows commenced again with four-fold vigour, and continued through the whole month with little or no interruption.  Inured, however, by our previous experience, and stimulated by an ambition that will carry men through dangers and difficulties which else would appal them, we continued our labours in right good earnest, and returned many a night to our log hut drenched with the rains that had been pouring on us through the day.  A blazing log fire, and a pipe of tobacco, compensated us for the hardships we had endured, and we were ready, the next morning, to undergo the same for the like object.  One morning, after a severe rain storm and swell of the river, I was passing up its banks, and gazing earnestly upon it, when my attention was suddenly arrested by the sight of gold lying scattered over the surface of the shore.  I commenced gathering it up, and soon had exhausted it.  How it came there I was never able to satisfactorily determine.  Some of the pieces, to the weight of two and three dollars, were lying ten feet above the edge of the river's bank, and every little stone had gathered round it a greater or less quantity.  The first day I picked up about four ounces, and waited for another rain.  It came that night, and the next morning I found gold there again as plentiful as it had been the day before.  In addition to this, I observed, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The banks of the creek, which should be called "Weber's" instead of "Weaver's," are well lined with lofty, magnificent oak and pine trees, and the soil along the banks is capable of producing the common articles of agriculture in great profusion.  A town, with the name of "Weaverville," has now been formed upon the direct site <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>Among the peculiarities consequent upon the extraction of gold, may be mentioned the fact, that in Weaver's Creek, during the whole winter of 1848, the price paid in silver or gold coin for gold dust was from six to eight dollars per ounce.  I, myself, bought some hundred ounces of a Mexican for six dollars and a half.  The only object in selling gold for coin was to procure specie for gambling purposes,--and gambling was the life of two-thirds of the residents there at that period.  At the same time, communication with San Francisco and Sacramento City having been closed by the rains, provisions were enormously high.  A few items will give an idea of gold-mine prices.  Flour was selling at one dollar per pound, dried beef at two dollars, sugar at a dollar, coffee seventy-five cents, molasses four dollars per gallon, pork two dollars per pound, miserable New England rum at fifty cents per glass or eight dollars per bottle, and tobacco at two dollars per pound.  At these prices, the trader and transporter realized a greater profit from the miner's labour than the miner himself; but provisions must be had, and no price, however great, could deter the labourer from purchasing the necessaries of life.</P>
068.sgm:<P>About the first of March, the long and severe winter broke up, and, tired of our winter quarters, our party made a division of the remaining provisions and cooking utensils, broke up housekeeping, and most of us started for the Middle Fork.  Our travel was not diversified by anything new or strange, and, upon striking the river, we proceeded up it about eighteen miles above the "Spanish Bar" to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The soil on this bar was exceedingly sandy, and the surface was covered with huge imbedded rocks, which required an immense amount of severe manual labour to remove.  Below this was a red gravel, which was united with gold, the washing of which turned out about four ounces per day to each man.  I was again dreaming of fortune and success, when my hopes were blasted by an attack of a terrible scourge that wrought destruction through the northern mines during the winter of 1848.  I allude to the land scurvy.  The exposed and unaccustomed life of two-thirds of the miners, and their entire subsistence upon salt meat, without any mixture of vegetable matter, had produced this disease, which was experienced more or less by at least one-half of the miners within my knowledge.  Its symptoms and progress may not be uninteresting.  It was first noticed in the "Dry Diggings," where, about the middle of February, many persons were rendered unable to walk by swellings of the lower limbs, and severe pains in them.  It was at first supposed to be rheumatism, and was treated as such.  But it withstood the most powerful applications used in that complaint, and was finally decided to be scurvy.  So long as the circumstances which caused it continued, the disease made rapid progress.  Many, who could obtain no vegetables, or vegetable acids, lingered out a miserable existence and died,--while others, fortunate enough to reach the settlements where potatoes and acids could be procured, recovered.  I noticed its first attack upon myself by swelling and bleeding of the gums, which was followed by a swelling of both legs below the knee, which rendered me unable to walk; and for three weeks I was laid up in my tent, obliged to feed upon the very articles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>I was almost in despair: with only a blanket between myself and the damp, cold earth, and a thin canvass to protect me from the burning sun by day, and the heavy dews by night, I lay day after day enduring the most intense suffering from pain in my limbs, which were now becoming more swollen, and were turning completely black.  Above me rose those formidable hills which I must ascend ere I could obtain relief.  I believe I should have died, had not accident discovered the best remedy that could have been produced.  In the second week of my illness, one of our party, in descending the hill on which he had been deer-hunting, found near its base, and strewn along the foot-track, a quantity of beans which sprouted from the ground, and were in leaf.  Some one, in descending the hill with a bag of them on his back, had probably dropped them.  My companion gathered a quantity and brought them into camp.  I had them boiled, and lived entirely on them for several days, at the same time using a decoction of the bark of the Spruce tree.  These seemed to operate magically, and in a week after commencing the use of them, I found myself able to walk,--and as soon as my strength was partially restored, I ascended the hill, and with two companions walked into Culoma, and by living principally upon a vegetable diet, which I procured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>I found matters very much changed at Culoma; the little settlement of three houses had grown into a large town.  Buildings were being erected in all parts of it, and hundreds of tents whitened the plain.  The steamer Oregon had just arrived at San Francisco on her first trip upward from Panama; and the fleet of sailing vessels loaded with passengers, attracted by the report of the gold discovery in the United States, had begun to arrive.  All sorts of people, from the polished Broadway dandy, who never handled an instrument heavier than a whalebone walking-stick, to the sturdy labourer who had spent his life in wielding the pickaxe and the shovel, had come to California, and all for one common object,--to dig gold; and one class was as enthusiastic, and anticipated as good success, as the other.  As there were no such accommodations as hotels at Culoma, everybody was living in tents, cooking their own provisions, and getting ready to pack up and proceed to the Middle Fork.  Some of them had commenced working on the banks of the South Fork in the immediate vicinity of the mill, and could be daily seen sweating (for the weather by this time had become exceedingly warm) under a load of tools sufficient to dig a whole canal, on their way to, or coming from their places of labour.  As I have before said, very little gold has been found in the vicinity of the mill,--and the gold-diggers there, at that time, were rewarded by not more than five dollars per day.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Most of them had brought with them some one of the many newfangled machines that were manufactured in the United States, after the reports of the gold discovery reached there, like the razors of Pindar, "to sell."  They were of all imaginable shapes and sizes, some of them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>About this time, reports were daily arriving at the settlements of outrages committed by Indians upon whites in the vicinity of the North and Middle Forks.  A report which afterwards proved to be strictly correct, came to the mill, that a party of Indians had descended to the camp of five white men on the North Fork, while the latter were engaged in labour, had broken the locks of their rifles which were in their tents, and then fallen upon and cruelly beaten and murdered them.  A large party, headed by John Greenwood, a son of the celebrated mountaineer, was immediately mustered at the mill, and started in pursuit of the Indians, and tracked them to a large Indian <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
068.sgm: on Weaver's Creek.  This they attacked, and after killing about twenty of them, took thirty prisoners, and marched to the mill.  Here they underwent a trial, and six of them, having been proved to have been connected with the party who killed the white men, were sentenced to be shot.  They were taken out in the afternoon after their arrival, followed by a strong guard, and, as was anticipated, a little distance ahead being allowed them, they ran.  They had no sooner started than the unerring aim of twenty mountaineers' rifles was upon them, and the next moment five of the six lay weltering in their blood.  Soon after this, several expeditions were fitted out, who scoured the country in quest of Indians, until now a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:redskin is scarcely ever seen in the inhabited portion of the northern mining region.  Their <HI REND="italics">rancherias</HI>
068.sgm:<P>After having remained some time at the mill, I returned to my old residence at Weaver's Creek.  I found it deserted; the opening of the warm spring weather had drawn away the entire population, both of our settlement and the "Dry Diggings," to the richer <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Extent and Richness of the Gold Region of Upper California--Are the "Gold-washings" inexhaustible?--A Home for the Starving Millions of Europe and the Labouring Men of America--Suicidal Policy of our Military Governors--Union of Capital, Labour, and Skill--A Word to Capitalists--Joint-stock Companies--The Gold-bearing Quartz of the Sierra--Experience of Hon. G. W. Wright--Extraordinary Results of pulverizing Quartz Rock--The Gold Mines of Georgia--Steam Engines and Stamping Machines--Growth of Sacramento and San Francisco.</P>
068.sgm:<P>THE gold region of Upper California is embraced in the country on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, and extending over an already explored space of six hundred miles.  Within the last six months, explorations have been made as far south as King's River, which flows into the Great Tulare Lake.  Above this are the Stanislaus, Mokelunne, Tuolumne, and Mariposa, all tributaries of the San Joaquin, and upon all of which gold has been found, and daily the southern portion of the gold region is becoming more known.  The two great streams, which with their tributaries, fence in the present gold region, are the Sacramento and San Joaquin.  The most probable theory, however, in regard to the extent of the gold region, is, that it is in the whole range of mountains, extending from the Sierra Nevada, or rather the branches thereof, through Upper California, Mexico, Peru, and Chili, although it is positive that there are nowhere in the course of the range, such extensive and rich gold-washings as are found between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers.  Many years before the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill, a <HI REND="italics">placer</HI>
068.sgm: had been wrought at San Bernadino, about thirty miles southeast of the town of Santa Barbara.  The gold was of the same character as that of the upper region, although found in much smaller quantities, and it is well known that for many years extensive gold <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm:<P>Throughout this whole region there is not a stream, valley, hill, or plain, in which gold does not exist.  It seems to be the natural product of the soil, and is borne like the sand along the river courses.  In travelling over some three hundred miles of this territory, I have never yet struck a pick or a knife into any spot where gold would be likely to be deposited, without finding it in greater or less quantities.  Until lately, it was supposed that the gold existed only in the ranges of the Sierra Nevada, and that what is called the "Coast Range," bordering the whole coast of California, was destitute of it.  But experience has already proved the incorrectness of this theory.  A party headed by Major P. B. Reading, some time in the spring of 1849, struck into the Coast Range of mountains, about two hundred miles north of Sacramento City, and are still labouring there very successfully, having found gold not only in quantities, but in large pieces and of the finest quality; and I doubt not that when the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
068.sgm:<P>I do not believe, as was first supposed, that the gold-washings of northern California are "inexhaustible."  Experience has proved, in the workings of other placers, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:the rich deposits of pure gold found near the surface of the earth, have been speedily displaced, and that with an immense influx of labouring population, they have totally disappeared.  Thus, in Sonora, where many years ago fifteen and twenty, and even fifty dollars per day, were the rewards of labour, it is found difficult at present with the common implements to dig and wash from the soil more than from fifty cents to two dollars per day to a man.  So has it been partially in the richer and more extensive placers of California.  When first discovered, ere the soil was molested by the pick and the shovel, every little rock crevice, and every river bank was blooming with golden fruits, and those who first struck them, without any severe labour, extracted the deposits.  As the tide of emigration began to flow into the mining region, the lucky hits upon rich deposits, of course, began to grow scarcer, until, when an immense population was scattered throughout the whole golden country, the success of the mining operations began to depend more upon the amount of labour performed than upon the good fortune to strike into an unfurrowed soil, rich in gold.  When I first saw the mines, only six months after they were worked, and when not more than three thousand people were scattered over the immense territory, many ravines extending for miles along the mountains were turned completely upside down, and portions of the river's banks resembled huge canals that had been excavated.  And now, when two years have elapsed, and a population of one hundred thousand, daily increasing, have expended so great an amount of manual labour, the old ravines and river banks, which were abandoned when there were new and unwrought placers to go to, have been wrought and re-wrought, and some of them with good success.  Two years have entirely changed the character of the whole mining region at present discovered.  Over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>That the mere washings of pure gold will at some day become exhausted is not to be doubted, although for fifty years at least they will be wrought to a greater or less extent.  In the ravines of dry diggings that have been, in mining parlance, entirely "dug out," any man, with a mere sheath-knife and crowbar, can extract five dollars a day.  The earth here has been thrown up from the body of the ravines in reaching the rock, and in other places the ground has been merely skimmed over, and many parts of the ravine left untouched; and upon the rivers banks the very earth that has been thrown aside as useless, and even that which has been once washed, will still, with careful wasching in a pan, turn out from three to ten dollars per day.  It is therefore evident, that so long as even such wages as these can be made, men will be found to work the placers.  The starving millions of Europe will find in the mountain gorges of California a home with profitable labour at their very door-sills, and the labouring-men of our own country will find it to their interest to settle among the auriferous hills.  The miserably suicidal policy, which some of our military officers in California have attempted to introduce, has already proved not only its worthlessness, but the absolute impossibility of carrying it into effect.  Never in the world's history was there a better opportunity for a great, free, and republilcan nation like ours to offer to the oppressed and down-trodden of the whole world an asylum, and a place where by honest industry, which will contribute as much to our wealth as their prosperity, they can build themselves happy homes and live like freemen.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Long after the present localities, where the washing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>Never in the history of the world was there such a favourable opportunity as now presents itself in the gold region of California for a profitable investment of capital; and the following are some of the modes in which it may be applied.  I have before shown, and experience and observation have demonstrated it to me, that the beds of the tributaries to the two great rivers that flow from the Sierra Nevada are richer in gold than their banks have yet proved to be.  There are many points, at each one of which the river can easily be turned from its channel by a proper application of machinery.  Dams are then to be erected and pumps employed in keeping the beds dry.  Powerful steam machines are to be set in operation for the purpose of tearing up the rocks, and separating the gold from them.  The hills and plains are also to be wrought.  Shafts are to be sunk in the mountain sides, and huge excavators are to bring to the surface the golden earth, and immense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>As yet no actual mining operations have been commenced in the gold region of California, for the two reasons, that they require a combination of labour and capital, and that the gold-washings have thus far proved so profitable as to make them the most desirable.   But there is a greater field for actual mining operations in California than was ever presented in the richest districts of Peru or Mexico.  The gold-washings, which have thus far enriched thousands, are but the scum that has been washed from the beds of the ore.  I would not wish to say one word to increase the gold mania, which has gone out from California, and has attracted from the whole world thousands upon thousands of men who were not at all fitted to endure the hardships consequent upon a life in her mountanious regions, or the severe labour which was necessary to extract gold from the earth.  It is to be hoped that this mania, however, has now given way to the "sober second thought," and that men have learned to listen to facts, and take the means to profit by them in the most proper manner.  I should not consider myself as acting in accordance with duty, were I to assume the responsibility of publishing to the world an account of the gold mines of California, did I not, like the witness upon the stand, "tell the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth."</P>
068.sgm:<P>Throughout the range on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, and in every little hill that branches from it, runs a formation of quartz rock, found sometimes at a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>In pulverizing and extracting the gold from about one hundred pounds of this rock, Mr. Wright found, that the first four pounds yielded twelve dollars worth of gold, which was the largest yield made, while throughout the whole the smallest yield was one dollar to the pound of rock, and this in many cases where not a particle of gold could be discerned with the naked eye.  Mr. Wright has now in his possession a specimen of this quartz weighing twelve pounds, which contains six hundred dollars, or more than one quarter of its weight in pure gold; and one dollar to the pound of rock is the lowest amount which he has ever extracted.</P>
068.sgm:<P>In the gold mines of Georgia, where at present nearly all the profits result from the extraction of gold from the quartz rock, a fifteen horse power machine, working twelve "stamps," will "stamp" or pulverize a thousand bushels of the rock per day.  The pulverization is the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:important item in the extraction of the gold, as after the rock is reduced to powder, the gold can be very easily secured either by washing or making an amalgam of quicksilver, or by a combination of both processes.  Now, in Georgia, if each bushel of rock should produce twelve and a half cents, the profits would be good.  If twenty-five cents, greater; and if fifty, enormous.  A bushel of the quartz rock weighs about seventy-five pounds, and we thus find that instead of, as in Georgia, yielding from ten to twenty-five <HI REND="italics">cents</HI>
068.sgm: to the bushel, the gold rock of California at its lowest estimate will yield seventy-five <HI REND="italics">dollars</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The city of Sacramento had assumed a very different aspect at the time I reached it on my return from the northern mines, from that which it exhibited when I previously left it.  Where the old store-ship used to be, on the banks of the Sacramento, tall-masted ships were moored, and the extensive plain on which I pitched my tent was dotted with houses.  Around the fort itself, which is nearly two miles from the bank of the river, houses had begun to spring up.  Building-lots which, four months previously, had sold at from fifty to two hundred dollars, were now held by their owners at from one to three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>Getting on board a launch, I spent a weary five days in sailing down the Sacramento, and arrived at San Francisco in the early part of May.  What a change had occurred in six months!  San Francisco, when I saw it before, was almost entirely deserted, everybody having gone to the mines.  Now it was being daily recruited by the arrival of travellers across the plains, by vessels around Cape Horn, by Sandwich Islanders, Chinese, French, English, and Mexicans.  The age of speculation had commenced.  The building-lots which, when I landed in San Francisco, were granted by the alcaldes for the sum of fifteen dollars, and in the autumn before were worth but five hundred, had now risen in value to from three to five thousand.  Hundreds and thousands of men with capital were arriving, who readily seized upon the opportunities for speculating.  Houses were going up on the vacant lots, and the town beginning to assume an air of business.  Goods of all kinds had fallen in price, owing to the arrival of fleets of loaded ships from all parts of the world, and in some cases from wilful neglect on the part of consignees.  Large hotels had been erected, and life began to be rendered comfortable.  Gambling in all its forms was carried on to an enormous extent, and money, as before, was almost as plentiful as the sea-sands.</P>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>The Mexican System of Government--Establishment of the Legislative Assembly of San Francisco--Seizure of the Town Records--Address of the Assembly recommending the Formation of a State Government--Interference of Brevet Brigadier-General Riley--Public Meeting--Organization of the State Convention--The Constitution--The Elections.</P>
068.sgm:<P>WHEN I arrived in San Francisco, the causes had already been set in operation which have worked out for California a state government; and though they sprang out of a local question, the result was a general one.  The tracing of these causes may not be uninteresting to those who are looking upon California now as a full-grown state.</P>
068.sgm:<P>As the town of San Francisco began to fill up with American citizens, lovers of law and order, it was thought necessary that a better form of town government than then existed was requisite to secure the rights of person and property.  Thus far the old Mexican system of <HI REND="italics">alcaldes</HI>
068.sgm: or chief-justices, and <HI REND="italics">ayuntamientos</HI>
068.sgm: or town councils, had retained, and the people were living under a law which they did not understand; a law subject to great abuses, in the hands of those who did not themselves comprehend it; and it was determined that the system should be changed, and one which was understood be substituted.  In compliance with a call signed by a large number of respectable citizens of the town, a mass meeting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>On the 21st day of February, an election was held, in compliance with the above resolutions, and a legislative assembly, consisting of fifteen members, three judges, a register, and sheriff, was elected.  One of the first acts of the Legislative Assembly, which only claimed authority over the district of San Francisco, was to abolish the office of alcalde, considering it not only unnecessary, but incompatible with American institutions; and in compliance with the act of the Assembly, Myron Norton, Esq., chief-magistrate, directed a note to T. M. Leavenworth, late <HI REND="italics">alcalde,</HI>
068.sgm: requesting him to deliver to the new government the records of the town.  To this note Mr. Leavenworth made no reply, and another one of the same tenor was sent by Mr. Norton.  This received the same treatment as the first.  Trouble appeared to be brewing, and, as is usual in such cases, many, who had been the first to propose and aid the new movement, were found at this time most wofully wanting.  A code of laws had already been established by the Assembly, and the wheels of the new local government were ready to be put in operation, when it was found very difficult to procure a quorum for business at the meetings of the Legislative Assembly, and it was decided that additional members should be added thereto.  On the 11th of May, another election was held, at which a large and respectable vote was cast, and ten members of the Assembly were chosen--and, some informality having occurred at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>California, and San Francisco in particular, were in a curious political state of existence.  From the time of the treaty of peace with Mexico until the arrival of Generals Smith and Riley, Colonel R. B. Mason, who had, during the war, been military commander and governor of California, had continued in the exercise of his authority, and the country had been ruled by the same laws and usages as during the war, when it was actually a territory belonging to Mexico.  In express contradiction of at least the intention and understanding of the government at Washington, Colonel Mason had appointed collectors, and collected revenue in the ports of California, and in all respects the military government had been continued; and now, when the people of San Francisco, in their sovereign capacity, had established a local government for their own protection, they found themselves interfered with by a military commander.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The Legislative Assembly, however, went on, receiving, as it did, the support of the whole community.  A court-house was established, and courts organized; and Judge Norton finding that Mr. Leavenworth still made no reply to his note, after waiting a reasonable time, issued a writ of replevin, and gave it into the hands of the sheriff, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>This was in the early part of the month of June, and was the first concerted movement coming from any authorized body to recommend the formation of a state government for California.  Mr. Leavenworth returned from Monterey, and, acting in the double capacity of a "returned officer" and a bearer of despatches, brought with him two proclamations issued by Gen. Riley, which were dated, one the 3d, and the other the 4th of June, and were found posted up in several parts of the town the morning after Mr. Leavenworth's arrival. The streets of San Francisco, on the morning of the 10th of June, presented a most exciting scene.  Little knots were gathered around the streets engaged in loud discussion, and crowds were collected in the vicinity of the proclamations reading them.  The first was a long one, and commenced by stating that as Congress had failed to extend a government over California, it became the duty of the people to organize one; that he, (Gen. Riley) "in accordance with instructions from <HI REND="italics">the Secretary of War</HI>
068.sgm:," had assumed, for the present, the civil government of the territory, and that he conceived it his duty to organize the old Mexican system, and put it in active operation until such time as a constitution and laws <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The second proclamation was addressed merely to the citizens of San Francisco, in relation to the seizure of the town records by order of Judge Norton, and called upon all good citizens to assist in restoring them to the "proper authorities."</P>
068.sgm:<P>Various were the feelings excited, and as various the opinions expressed in regard to these proclamations, but a large majority of the people of San Francisco were fully decided in the idea that Gen. Riley had assumed an authority, which, even if it was "in accordance with the instructions of the Secretary of War," was one which he had no right to assume, and was in fact nothing more nor less than an unjust usurpation of power.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Trouble was again anticipated, and it was understood that, backed by Gen. Riley's proclamation, the former <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
068.sgm:, Mr. Leavenworth, would attempt the re-seizure of the town records.  A few days after the publication of this document, a writ was served upon the town Register, calling for their delivery; he refused to give them up, and when an attempt was made to seize them, a force of about fifty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:of the most respectable citizens, gathered at the court-house, determined, if necessary, to resist <HI REND="italics">vi et armis</HI>
068.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">alcalde's</HI>
068.sgm:<P>On the 12th of June, a large meeting was held in Ports-mouth Square, for the purpose of taking steps towards the establishment of a state government for California.  The call for this meeting had been signed by a large number of respectable citizens, and was issued before Gen. Riley's proclamations were published, and could therefore have no connexion with them.  This meeting was addressed by Hon. T. Butler King, Hon. Wm. M. Gwin, William A. Buffum, Esq., and other speakers, all of whom urged the propriety of the immediate formation of a state government for California.</P>
068.sgm:<P>In reply to the proclamations of Gen. Riley, an address was issued by the Legislative Assembly of San Francisco, written by Peter H. Burnett, the present governor of California, setting forth in a clear and succinct manner, the right of the people, in the absence of a territorial government established by Congress, to legislate for themselves, and justifying, in a masterly way, the course which had been pursued by the Legislative Assembly.</P>
068.sgm:<P>In order to avoid all difficulty and confusion, and arrive, by the shortest and most practicable mode, at the "consummation devoutly to be wished," the establishment of a state government for California, the Assembly and their supporters united cordially with the other citizens of California, and on the first day of August an election was held <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The convention met, and a more sensible and dignified body of men never assembled in any portion of the world.  After six weeks' severe labour, a constitution was prepared and laid before the people of California for their ratification or rejection.  It was a constitution of the most radically democratic character, and most admirably adapted to the wishes and wants of the people over whom it was to be extended.</P>
068.sgm:<P>On the 13th day of November an election was held, at which the state constitution received an almost unanimous ratification, and at the same time a governor, and the necessary state officers, members of the state legislature, and two members of Congress, were chosen.  The choice for governor fell upon Peter H. Burnett, Esq., one of the early emigrants to Oregon, and who there received the appointment as judge of the Supreme Court, an enterprising citizen of California, and one of the first to declare the rights of her people.  John M'Dougal, Esq., formerly of Kentucky, was elected lieutenant-governor, and George W. Wright, and Edward Gilbert, representatives to Congress.  The first State Legislature met at the capital, the Pueblo de San Jose&acute;, on the 15th of December, and elected Hon. John C. Fremont, and Wm. M. Gwin, Senators to the Congress of the United States.  The action of Congress is thus alone necessary to constitute California one of the sovereign states of the American Union, and it is earnestly to be hoped that that august body will no longer trifle with the interests or the demands of so great and powerful a people.  The struggles of California have been arduous, her trials severe; she has been taxed for the support of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>In tracing the causes which have created California a state, it will be seen that that little body of men, the Legislative Assembly of San Francisco, were the first to set the ball in motion, and I cannot refrain from giving them the credit which is their due.  The proclamation of General Riley would probably not have been issued to this day, had not the body of which I have spoken taken the preliminary steps, and although General Riley deserves gratitude from the people for what he did, and as a man, is one of "nature's noblemen," I shall ever look upon his assumption of power as Civil Governor of California as unwarranted and unjust.</P>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Growth of San Francisco--Number of Houses erected--Prices of Real Estate--Rents--Wages of Mechanics and Labourers--Gambling--Prices Current--Climate--Churches--Steamboats--Statistics of Shipping, &amp;c., &amp;c., &amp;c.</P>
068.sgm:<P>WITHIN the past six months, the growth of San Francisco has been enormous.  During that time, at least a thousand houses have been erected, of all sizes and forms.  The hills around the town are now covered with buildings, and every spot of ground near the centre is occupied.  When it is taken into consideration, that lumber during this time has never been lower than two hundred and fifty, and often as high as four hundred dollars per thousand, and carpenters' wages have been at from twelve to twenty dollars a day, it must be conceded on all hands, that the Californians are at least an enterprising people.  During this time the price of real estate has risen in proportion with the growth of the town, property being now fifty per cent. higher than it was six months since.  A lot on Portsmouth Square, which was purchased some three years ago for fifteen dollars, and sold last May for six thousand, was purchased a few days since for forty thousand dollars!  The mere ground-rent of a little piece of land of sufficient size to erect a house upon, in any of the public streets, varies from one hundred to five hundred dollars per month.  Rents of houses are, of course, in proportion to the price of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>San Francisco possesses one of the most capacious and magnificent harbours in the world; one in which the navies of all the maritime powers could ride at anchor in perfect safety.  From its entrance to its head is a distance of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:about twenty miles, and branching from it are two other large bays--San Pablo, and Suisun.  The entrance to the harbour is guarded by lofty hills, about five thousand feet apart, and could be protected with the greatest ease.  But the town of San Francisco itself is not fitted by nature as a pleasant residence.  During the spring, summer, and autumn, cold northwest winds are continually blowing, sometimes with such severity as to destroy buildings, and always filling the streets with a dense cloud of dust.  From December to March, during the continuance of the rainy season, the streets, which have been filled with dust in the summer, become perfect pools of mud and mire, so that in some of them it is almost impossible to travel.  The climate is one of the most peculiar in the world.  During the summer the weather is so cold that a fire is always needed, and the surrounding hills are dry and burned up; while in the winter, in the intermissions between the rains, the weather is delightfully warm and May-like, and the hills become clothed with a lovely verdure.  Among the improvements in the town are several wharves, which have been completed within a short time past.  The principal of these, the central wharf, built by a joint-stock company, extends into the harbour a distance of two hundred and ninety-two feet, and will, when completed, be twenty-one hundred feet in length, enabling vesselsto lie abreast, and discharge their cargoes directly upon it.  Several churches have also been erected; and there are now in the town seven, of the following denominations, viz.: Catholic, 1; Episcopalian, 2; Baptist, 1; Presbyterian, 2; Methodist, 1.  There are also two public schools in operation.  Some ten or twelve steamboats are plying on the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, and the bay of San Francisco; so that travelling has ceased to be so disagreeable as it was when I went up the Sacramento in a little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The following table, kindly furnished me by the Collector of the port, exhibits the amount of tonnage in San Francisco on the 10th of November, 1849, together with the number and national character of the vessels in the harbour.</P>
068.sgm:<P>American tonnage,<HSEP>87,494</P>
068.sgm:<P>Foreign do.<HSEP>32,823</P>
068.sgm:<P>Total amount of tonnage,<HSEP>120,317</P>
068.sgm:<P>No. of ships in harbour,<HSEP>312</P>
068.sgm:<P>No. of do. arrived from April 1st, to November 10th,<HSEP>697</P>
068.sgm:<P>Of which there were,</P>
068.sgm:<P>American,<HSEP>401</P>
068.sgm:<P>Foreign,<HSEP>296</P>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Weber--Sullivan--Stockton--Hudson--Georgetown--Sam Riper--The Slate Range--The "Biggest Lump" yet found in California.</P>
068.sgm:<P>THAT immense fortunes have been made in California is beyond a doubt; many of them, assuredly, have been by gold-digging and trading, the latter occupation, in some cases, proving even more profitable than the former.  The man who has been most fortunate in the mines is, probably, Charles M. Weber, a German, of whom I have previously spoken, who left his rancho on the first discovery of gold, and collecting a large herd of Indians, placed them at work at various mining points, finding them in provisions, and purchasing their gold from them with blankets at a hundred dollars apiece, and every other article of trade at correspondingly enormous prices.  The untutored Indian, who had spent all his life in roaming over his native hills, subsisting upon acorns and wild game, and clothed in the skins of the deer and the wolf, the moment he found himself able to live sumptuously upon flour, and some of the little luxuries of life, and clothe his swarthy limbs in an elegant Mexican <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
068.sgm: or Yankee blanket, was ready to part with his gold, of the value of which he had no idea, on the most accommodating terms.  I have seen Indians at Culoma, who, till within the previous three months, had been nude as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>It is said that Weber, before he gave up the digging of gold, had, by the labour and trade of the Indians, made between four and five hundred thousand dollars.  He then purchased the ground on which the flourishing town of Stockton now stands, laid it out in building lots, and is now probably worth over half a million of dollars, and his present trade and sale of lots will, without doubt, double this amount in one year.</P>
068.sgm:<P>John Sullivan, an Irishman, who, when I first arrived at San Francisco, was driving an ox-team, some time in the summer of 1848, discovered a <HI REND="italics">canon</HI>
068.sgm: near the Stanislaus River, which proved so rich that ere the winter was over he had taken from it twenty-six thousand dollars worth of gold dust.  With this he established a trading post, purchased property in San Francisco, and is now on the highroad to a large fortune.  The <HI REND="italics">canon</HI>
068.sgm:<P>A man named Stockton, who came to California in the same ship with me, and who was a private in our regiment, settled upon the Stanislaus River, in the early part of September, 1848.  He was a keen, trading genius, and, striking out of the beaten track, bought a mule, and started, with a small lot of trinkets and little articles of luxury, into the mountain Indian region.  Here his faculties "for driving bargains" were brought into full play, and it is said to be a fact, that he has sold several boxes of raisins to the Indians at their weight in gold!  Stockton made a great deal of money; but lately, through some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>A young man named Hudson, from New York, I think, discovered a deep <HI REND="italics">canon</HI>
068.sgm: between the town of Culoma and the Middle Fork, about eleven miles distant from the former place, and six from the latter.  This is a place which, in my travel to the Middle Fork and back, I have crossed four times without ever thinking of disturbing it.  But in the summer of 1849, Hudson struck into it, and by digging some four feet reached the granite bed of the <HI REND="italics">canon</HI>
068.sgm:, on which lay immense masses of gold.  In the course of six weeks he had dug some twenty thousand dollars.  The gold in this <HI REND="italics">canon</HI>
068.sgm: is all large and of the purest quality, being generally entirely exempt from the admixture of quartz, which is usually found in large pieces.  The largest piece found here, and which I had the pleasure of seeing, weighed a little over fourteen pounds clear gold, and was worth nearly two thousand eight hundred dollars.  The success of every one who has worked in this <HI REND="italics">canon</HI>
068.sgm:<P>A boy, nineteen years of age, named John C. Davenport, from New Bedford, took out here, one day last fall, seventy-seven ounces, and the next day nearly ninety ounces of pure gold.  The <HI REND="italics">canon</HI>
068.sgm:<P>A young man, named Samuel Riper, from Waterloo, New York, who, with three companions, went on to the Yuba River in June, 1849, in company with Dr. Bullard, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>About seventy miles from the mouth of the Yuba River is a curious formation of rock called "The Slate Range;" it is upon the bank of the river, and extends along it.  Above it are lofty and precipitous hills, exceedingly difficult and dangerous of descent,--but the richness of the slate rock beneath has well compensated all who have endured the toil of descending.  "The slate lies about four feet below the earth's surface, and between the thin strata the gold is found adhering to the rock.  Over sixty thousand dollars worth of gold has been taken from this range during the past summer.</P>
068.sgm:<P>But one of the most curious circumstances in connexion with the gold mines occurred at the old "Dry Diggings," of which I have previously spoken.  These were entirely deserted last spring, having been used as a mere wintering place, and abandoned when the weather admitted of travelling.  As emigration rushed in, however, people again began to settle at the old working-places, and the "Dry Diggings" were soon again filled up.  The houses were placed in a long valley, through which a stream ran, and as the diggings thus far had all been found in the ravines <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>Dr. H. Van Dyke, with a company of about thirty men, went on to the North Fork in August last, and constructed a dam on that river just above its junction with the American Fork.  Within the first three days after the drainage was completed, the company had taken out fifteen thousand dollars; and afterwards, for nearly a month, made from five to twelve ounces a day per man.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The largest piece of gold which has yet been found was picked up in a dry ravine near the Stanislaus River, in September, 1848.  It contained a large admixture of quartz, and weighed a little over twenty-five pounds, being worth five thousand dollars.  A piece weighing twenty-seven ounces and a half was found by a young man named Taylor at "Kelsey's Dry Diggings," on the South Fork, about eight miles from Culoma.  I saw this piece at the Mill last spring, and it is now in the possession of Hon. Edward Gilbert, one of our representatives in Congress <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>Recapitulation--Population of the Mining Region--Average Amount of Gold Dug--Requirements of a Gold-Digger--The Best Season--In what kind of Soil is Gold Found?--Washing Machines--California a Habitable Country--The Learned Professions.</P>
068.sgm:<P>IT is proper, before closing this work, and it will probably be expected, that I should make a sort of recapitulation, and give some advice in regard to prospects and plans of proceeding in the gold mines of California.  To advise is always a difficult task, and in this instance it is peculiarly so;  but I will endeavour to give a fair statement of facts, and the best advice I can.  The number of persons at present labouring in the various portions of the mining region is about one hundred thousand.  Of these, at least one-third are Mexicans, Chilenos, Pacific Islanders, and Chinese, and the remainder Americans, English, French, and Germans; and I should divide their locations as follows: on the North, Middle, and South Forks, say twenty thousand; on the Stanislaus, Mokelumne, Tuolumne, Merced, Mariposa, and other tributaries of the San Joaquin, forty thousand; on Yuba and Feather Rivers, twenty thousand; and, scattered over the various dry diggings, twenty thousand more.  During the past summer and autumn, I should estimate the average quantity of gold dug daily at eight dollars to a man; for although it is by no means uncommon for an individual to "strike a lucky <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:place," and some days take out from a hundred to a thousand dollars, others spend whole days in search and labour, without finding more than two or three dollars a day.  From my own experience in the mines I am, however, satisfied, that, during six months in the year, a stout man, with health, energy, and perseverance, can average sixteen dollars a day in almost any portion of the placers; and that, for twenty years, from three to ten dollars a day can be made by individual labour.  Still, I would advise all who are in good positions at home to remain there.  The labour and hardships consequent upon the life of a gold-digger are of the most severe and arduous nature.  Prying and breaking up huge rocks, shovelling dirt, washing it with wet feet all day, and sleeping on the damp ground at night, with nothing above but a thin covering of canvass, or a leaky log roof, are not by any means agreeable to one who has been accustomed to the civilized life of cities.  Richelieu says, that "the pen is mightier than the sword."  Many a fine, spruce young clerk coming to California with golden dreams of wealth before him has proved, to his sorrow, that the crowbar is heavier than the pen.  I hesitate not to say, that the labour of gold-digging is unequalled by any other in the world in severity.  It combines within itself the various arts of canal-digging, ditching, laying stone walls, ploughing, and hoeing potatoes,--and adding to this a life in the wilds of the mountains, living upon poor provisions, continually exposed either to the burning rays of the sun, or the heavy dews of night, and the occupation becomes anything but a pleasant one.  But to a man endowed with a constitution to endure hardship, with hands that have been accustomed to labour, and with a heart which suffers not itself to be sorrowed with disappointment, there was never a better opportunity in the world to make a fortune, than there is at present in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>To those who do come, I would give a few words of advice, which may be of service.  Bring with you very little clothing and provisions, as they will only prove a burden.  These can be purchased in San Francisco almost at New York prices.  Never come without money, as gold is not to be found in the streets of San Francisco.  You may be delayed several days before going to the mines, and board at from sixteen to fifty dollars a week will soon make a large hole in a small sum of money.  Arrived at San Francisco, beware of the vices prevalent there.  Drinking and gaming are the principal, and in fact the only amusements of the town, and many a poor fellow, landing there with high hopes, has been fleeced and turned adrift upon society with a broken heart.  Purchase no provisions in San Francisco.  The expenses of transportation are so great, (freight up the river being from two to four cents per pound, and by teams to the various mining points from fifteen to fifty,) that your provisions will cost more in money and time than they would if purchased in the mines.  Flour is now selling in the gold regions at about fifty cents per pound; this seems like a great price, but you will find it cheaper than to carry it with you, and will soon find that it is much easier to pay fifty cents for a pound of flour when you are making sixteen dollars a day, than it is to pay three cents when you are making but one.  For the same reason that you should carry no provisions, carry but little clothing.  A mere change is sufficient, and clothes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The best season for proceeding to the mines is about the end of the month of August.  The waters which have been swollen by the melting of the snows in the summer, have then subsided, and the heat of the summer months has then given way to the cooling breezes of autumn.  From that time till the middle of December, the weather is most delightful, and the opportunities for profitable labour are far better than at any other time.  About the middle of December, the rainy season commences; the rivers immediately commence rising, and labour is prevented both by this and the inclemency of the weather.  The life of the miner during the winter months is exceedingly unpleasant, and I would advise no one to proceed to the gold region after the month of November.  The rainy season usually closes about the middle of February, but the roads are exceedingly muddy until the first of March, and from that time till July, labour can be performed to advantage in the various dry-diggings, and upon some of the rivers.  By this time the hot and sickly season commences, and the waters upon the rivers are at their greatest height.  The thermometer ranges from 90&deg; to 120&deg; in the shade at noonday, and the heavy dews of night fall upon the labourer, who has been all day at work beneath a broiling sun.  This of course produces disease, and in that wild region, where the comforts and attendance that should ever surround a sick man's bed, are unknown, disease is usually followed by death.  The most prevalent diseases during this time are fever and ague, and bilious fevers of the most virulent nature.  But I am satisfied that, setting aside the prevalence of diseases common to all new countries, a large portion of the sickness of the summer months is caused by the exposure consequent upon the present mode of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>It has been a frequent inquiry in the United States, "In what kind of soil is gold found?"  The answer is, that it is found in no one particular kind of soil, but in every variety from the common loose black earth to the hardest clay.  I have found, in the dry diggings of Weaver's Creek, pieces of gold, some of them weighing nearly a quarter of an ounce, lying in the upper black soil within two inches of the surface.  It is sometimes found embedded in a hard white clay, at other times in a red, and at others in a blue clay.  As a general thing, I have found that where the gold is coarse, it usually descends until it reaches one of the above-mentioned clays, while the finer particles rest upon the gravelly stratum nearer the surface, and thus fine gold is most frequently found mingled with red gravel.</P>
068.sgm:<P>In regard to bringing machines to California for the purpose of washing gold, I must caution the miner to be careful and judicious in their selection.  Some of the more recent inventions are valuable, especially the "Quicksilver Gold Separator," which is constructed to operate with quicksilver in such manner as to save the fine particles of gold which in the ordinary cradles or rockers are lost.  The only object of a machine of any kind is to break up and keep in motion a larger quantity of earth than a pan would hold, and at the same time prevent the gold from being lost.  I saw, last spring, hundreds of huge, bulky machines, which had been brought round Cape Horn, and which would require, each one of them, a large ox-team to convey them to the mining region, lying piled upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>A great mistake has been made by people who have emigrated to California, or who have desired to emigrate, in considering it merely as a temporary home, a sort of huge goose, out of which a few feathers were to be plucked, and then forsaken.  It is for this reason that the life of the miner is at present tenfold more arduous than it otherwise would be, and never was there a more egregious error in regard to the character of the country.  Gold is not the only product of the soil in California.  Her fertile valleys and rich prairies are capable, when cultivated, of producing an untold store of agricultural wealth.  Her lofty pines and spreading oak trees afford an abundant supply of material for the erection of comfortable dwellings.  Her thousand streams, pouring down every hillside and winding through her plains, furnish an inexhaustible supply of water-power, and her forests, mountains, and lakes abound with game of every description.  In the immense valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, are millions of acres of land entirely unreclaimed, upon which any man may settle and make a fortune in a few years by the cultivation of the soil.  Some hundred and fifty miles above Sacramento City, on the Sacramento River, are large tracts of valuable, well-watered land, much of which is unreclaimed, other portions being for sale at mere nominal prices.  On one of these tracts, at "Lawson's Rancho," wheat was last year raised at an average of forty-five bushels to the acre, and is now selling delivered on the rancho at six dollars a bushel!  Cattle bring from forty to a hundred dollars a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>California is a habitable country, and should be looked upon no longer as a mere temporary residence.  A state government has been organized, the sheltering hand of law stretched over its borders, and life there can be made as comfortable as life in any other portionof the world.  Let then the gold-digger come, and from the never-failing hills gather a rich supply of treasure.  Let the farmer come, and from the abundant soil produce the necessaries of life, and enrich himself from them.  Let the mechanic and labourer come, and build up the towns of this new country, and let the ladies of our land come, and with their smiles bring peace and happiness into the wilderness.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The world was sad!--the garden was a wild!--<LB>And man, the hermit sighed, till woman smiled!"<LB></HI>
068.sgm:<P>In this connexion, it may be well to state, that although California presents one of the finest fields in the world for mechanical and industrial pursuits, it is as yet an unpromising region for what are called "the learned professions;" and I would advise no more "of that ilk" to wend this way.  The country is already overrun with young lawyers and doctors, who are too feeble physically to succeed as gold-diggers, and seek in vain for fees.  Nearly all the law business done here is in the hands of a few prominent individuals, who are handsomely paid for what they do, but could readily transact ten times the amount of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>THE OLD TOWNS OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
068.sgm:<P>MONTEREY.</P>
068.sgm:<P>THE town of Monterey is situated upon the large bay of that name, formed by the curve of land between Point An&tilde;o Nuevo on the north, and Point Pinos on the south.  Until the adoption of the present constitution for California, Monterey was always the seat of government of the territory, and the residence of her military governors and other officers.  The town presents a very neat and pretty appearance, with its houses of white-plastered <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
068.sgm: and its surrounding hills covered with lofty pine trees.  It retains its old Spanish peculiarities, and Yankee innovation have as yet made but little progress there.  The Spanish <HI REND="italics">don</HI>
068.sgm:, clothed in his <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
068.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">calcineros</HI>
068.sgm:, still walks through the streets with his lordly air, and the pretty <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;orita</HI>
068.sgm:, her dark eyes peering through the folds of her <HI REND="italics">reboso</HI>
068.sgm:, skips lightly along the footpath.  The ancient customs are still continued here, and the sound of the guitar and the light shuffling of pretty feet are heard nightly in the <HI REND="italics">casas</HI>
068.sgm:.  I saw here a few weeks since a funeral celebrated in the old style, which, although by no means new to me, exceedingly astonished some Yankee friends who had but just arrived.  A procession of some hundred people, men, women, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>About six miles from Monterey lie the mission and valley of Carmel, one of the prettiest spots in all Upper California, and one of the most favourable for agricultural pursuits; and twenty-five miles distant is the great valley of San Juan, ten miles in width, and thirty miles in length.  This valley possesses a climate peculiar to itself, and a soil of exceeding richness.  The winds from the ocean are mellowed before they reach here, and fall with a delicious coolness upon this beautiful vale.  The agricultural products are principally corn, wheat, and potatoes, which are taken to Monterey and sold at good priccs.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The bay of Monterey abounds in fish of every variety, but particularly mackerel, which can be caught in great quantities with a hook and line directly in the harbour.  The town contains about one thousand inhabitants, and its climate is superior to that of any other locality on the coast, although during the summer a dense fog usually rises for a few hours in the morning.  A fort has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA.</P>
068.sgm:<P>South of Monterey is the town of Santa Barbara, a place celebrated for its being the residence of the aristocracy of California, as well as for its beautiful women.  There is no harbour to the town, and vessels are obliged to lie at anchor in an open roadstead, often at many miles distant from the shore; and during the spring and fall, when the southeast winds prevail, they are scarcely safe lying here; a high surf is constantly running on the beach, and it is only by the greatest skill in "beaching" a boat that one can escape a severe ducking.  The position of the town of Santa Barbara is one of the most beautiful in California.  On the right, toward the water, is a lofty hill, rising nearly a thousand feet, from the summit of which the little town resembles one of those mud villages, which school-boys mould in clam-shells.  Directly back of the town is a range of almost impassable hills, which run in a diagonal direction, and join the Coast Range at San Luis Obispo.  In front is the broad bay, embraced between two points, and having a smooth beach of nearly thirty miles in extent.  A mile back from the town, at the head of a gentle slope, is the mission of Santa Barbara, with its venerable white walls and cross-mounted spires.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The town itself is situated upon a plain of some ten miles in extent, and contains about one hundred and fifty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:houses, built of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
068.sgm:, all one story in height.  Most of these houses contain but two rooms, a large one called the <HI REND="italics">sala</HI>
068.sgm:, and a small chamber.  These houses contain no stoves or fire-places, all the cooking operations of a family being performed in the <HI REND="italics">cocina</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The people of Santa Barbara are kind and hospitable.  I was stationed there three months, and scarcely a day elapsed that our mess-table did not exhibit some choice specimen of California cookery, made up by the hands of some fair sen&tilde;orita, as a present to " <HI REND="italics">los officiales Americanos</HI>
068.sgm:."  But here, as all over California, among the native population, laziness is the great characteristic of the people.  A fine horse to ride, plenty of beef and <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
068.sgm: to eat, and <HI REND="italics">cigaros</HI>
068.sgm: to smoke, and they are satisfied.  The whole day with them is spent on horseback, in lazily riding from one tavern to another, or galloping furiously, at the risk of their necks, along the streets.  The residents of Santa Barbara are principally <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
068.sgm:, who visit their <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
068.sgm: once or twice a year, to attend to the marking and killing of their cattle, and spend the remainder of the year in their town residence, enjoying life to their utmost capacity.  Each <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
068.sgm: usually keeps around the town a sufficient number of cattle for food, and whenever any beef is wanted, a bullock is slaughtered in a manner that would cause the eyes of the English societies for the suppression of cruelties to animals to stare aghast.  The animal is first to be caught, which is effected in this manner.  A <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
068.sgm: or herdsman, mounted upon a fleet horse, and provided with a strong rope, with a noose at one end, and called a <HI REND="italics">lasso</HI>
068.sgm:, rides furiously into the herd of cattle, and selecting the one he wishes swings his lasso around his head, gives a loud yell, at the same time throwing the <HI REND="italics">lasso</HI>
068.sgm: and planting it over the horns and head of the vanquished bullock.  So expert <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:are they in the use of the <HI REND="italics">lasso</HI>
068.sgm: that they seldom fail at the first trial in catching an animal running at the distance of thirty or forty feet.  The animal being captured, he is dragged into town, and being conducted within a <HI REND="italics">corral</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The favourite amusement of the Californians is dancing, and Santa Barbara is more celebrated for its <HI REND="italics">fandangos</HI>
068.sgm: than any other town on the coast.  These occur nearly every evening in the week, it being always easy to get up an impromptu ball in five minutes, by calling in a guitar or harp player.  At these balls there is no exclusiveness, the high and low, rich and poor, all meet on perfect equality, and dance away their sorrows, if they have any, upon the same mud floor.  No scented cards of invitation are sent to the favoured few, but all who choose enter and  participate freely.  At church and at fandangos Californians all find a level.  It appears as natural for Californians to dance as to breathe or eat.  Often have I seen little girls, scarce six years of age, flying through a <HI REND="italics">cotillon</HI>
068.sgm:, or circling in the giddy waltz, or dancing with great skill their favourite <HI REND="italics">jotah</HI>
068.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">jarabe</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The town of Santa Barbara contains about five hundred inhabitants, among whom are the Norrigas and Carillos, the two great families of California.  It is a beautiful place of residence, with a mild, springlike climate, and around it are some of the pleasantest rides in all California.  About four miles distant is the little town of <HI REND="italics">Montecito</HI>
068.sgm: (little mountain), a collection of farm-houses, where large quantities of vegetables are grown.  Three miles beyond this, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>The mission of Santa Barbara is, at the present time, in a better condition than any other mission in the country.  About fifty of the converted Indians still remain here and cultivate the soil.  Around the old mission building are several extensive orchards, in which figs, apples, pears, and peaches are grown, and two or three vineyards, producing a grape from which excellent wine is made.  <HI REND="italics">The Padre Presidente</HI>
068.sgm:<P>PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELOS.</P>
068.sgm:<P>One hundred and ten miles south of Santa Barbara is the <HI REND="italics">Pueblo de los Angelos</HI>
068.sgm: (City of the Angels), the garden spot of California.  It is situated at the end of an immense plain, which extends from San Pedro, the port of the <HI REND="italics">Pueblo</HI>
068.sgm:, twenty-five miles distant, to this point.  As in all California towns, the houses are built of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
068.sgm: and are covered with an asphaltum, which is found in great quantities, issuing from the ground near the town.  The northern portion of the town is laid out in streets, and appropriated as the residence of the trading citizens, while the southern part is made up of gardens, vineyards, and orchards.  Through all these a large stream runs, which is used to irrigate the soil.  The vineyards are lovely spots; acres upon acres of ground are covered with vines, which are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:trimmed every year, and thus kept about six feet in height, and in the fall of the year are hanging thick with clusters of grapes.  In addition to these, apples, pears, peaches, plums, and figs are raised in great abundance.  An American, named Wolfskill, has here a vineyard containing thirty thousand bearing grape-vines, from which he makes annually a thousand barrels of wine, and two or three hundred of <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
068.sgm:, the brandy of the country.  Some of this wine is a very superior article, resembling in its flavour the best Madeira, while another kind, the <HI REND="italics">vino tinto</HI>
068.sgm:, is execrable stuff.  With proper care and apparatus, however, the grape of the <HI REND="italics">Pueblo</HI>
068.sgm:<P>Until the late astonishing growth of San Francisco, the Pueblo was the largest town in California, containing about two thousand inhabitants, who are principally wealthy rancheros, and those who reside there to cultivate the grape.  Game of many kinds abounds in the vicinity of the Pueblo.  During the rainy season, the plains in the direction of San Pedro are covered with millions of geese and ducks, which are shot by the dozen, while the surrounding hills afford an abundance of quails, deer, elk, and antelope.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The inhabitants of the Pueblo are of the better and wealthier class of Californians, and have always been strongly disposed towards the institutions of Mexico, and at the time of the conquest of California, they fought with a determined resistance against the naval forces of Commodore Stockton.  They have now, however, become reconciled to the institutions of our country, and will, I doubt not, in a few years make as good a set of democrats as can be found in Missouri or Arkansas.  They are very strongly attached to the Roman Catholic Church, and are probably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>About ten miles from Los Angelos, is the mission of San Gabriel, located upon the river of that name, whose banks for miles are girdled with grape-vines.  This is one of the prettiest spots in California, and affords a fine opportunity for the raising of fruit.  The country around the Pueblo is by far the most favourable portion of southern California for the settlement of foreigners.  Possessing a climate of unequalled mildness, and a soil of great fertility, it must inevitably, ere long, be surrounded by a large population.</P>
068.sgm:<P>SAN DIEGO.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The town of San Diego is the southernmost of Upper California, the boundary line established by the late treaty running one marine league south of it.  The harbour here, next to that at San Francisco, is the best on the whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>THE NEW TOWNS OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
068.sgm:<P>THE enormous price of real estate in San Francisco, and the continual rapid tide of emigration, will ere long cause the settlement of the new towns seated at various points in the vicinity of the mining region.  Many of these are entirely new, but have grown and are growing with great rapidity.  I propose giving a description of their locations as a guide to those who may desire to settle in any of them.</P>
068.sgm:<P>BENICIA.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The town or city of Benicia, which in the king's English means Venice, is situated in the straits of Carquinez, thirty-five miles from San Francisco, which it promises yet to rival in point of commercial importance.  The ground upon which it is seated is a gentle slope descending to the water, and as it reaches it becoming almost a plain.  There is sufficient water at its bank to enable vessels of the first class to lie at anchor there, and discharge their cargoes, and the harbour is safe and exempt from violent winds.  Benicia contains already about a thousand inhabitants, including a garrison of soldiers, having been made the head-quarters of the Pacific division of the United States <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>MARTINEZ.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The town of Martinez is also located on the straits of Carquinez, nearly opposite Benicia.  The site of the town is pleasant, being upon a high bank, while the plain around it is well wooded.  The proprietor is William M. Smith of San Francisco, who is making arrangements for building the town.</P>
068.sgm:<P>NEW YORK OF THE PACIFIC.</P>
068.sgm:<P>At the junction of the river San Joaquin and the bay of Suisun, lies New York of the Pacific.  The town is seated on a broad and well-watered plain, covered with many groves of magnificent oaks, extending from the waters of the bay and the river San Joaquin to the hills some three miles back.  So gradual is the slope that it seems a perfect level, viewed from the river's bank; but standing at the base of the hills looking toward the water, the slope will be found to be perfect and regular to the water's edge, where it terminates upon a fine sand-beach, from five to ten feet above the level of the highest tide.  New York is beautifully laid out, with large reserves for churches, a university, and other public edifices, and is perhaps one of the most healthy points in the country, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<P>New York is surrounded on all sides by the most fertile agricultural districts of Northern California.  The Sacramento, San Joaquin, and San Jose&grave; valleys being tributary to this point which is as the centre of so many radii, while the entire land travel from San Jose&grave; and the Contra Costa, and indeed of all southern California, flows through this channel.  The whole transportation to the rich placers of the Stanislaus, Mokelumne, Tuolumne, Merced, and Mariposa, as well as the famous mines of the Middle, North, and South Forks, Feather and Yuba rivers, must pass the new city.  The great railroad, destined to connect the Pacific Ocean and the Mississippi River, will undoubtedly terminate at New York, as it is in a direct line with the only pass in the mountains through which a railroad can reach the waters which empty into the Bay of San Francisco.  This is a fact well established by the most distinguished engineers.  Through the enterprise of Col. J. D. Stevenson and Dr. William C. Parker, both of the New York regiment of volunteers, the first survey of the bay of Suisun and the adjacent waters was made.  These gentlemen are the principal owners of New York.</P>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>SUISUN.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The city of "Suisun," alluded to in the first chapter of this narrative under the cognomen of Hala-chum-muck, is laid out on the west bank of the Sacramento, at a distance of eighty miles from San Francisco, and is about half-way between San Francisco and Sacramento City.  The town is seated on high ground, and is entirely free from the <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
068.sgm:<P>SUTTER.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The city of Sutter is beautifully located on the eastern bank of the Sacramento River, adjoining Sacramento City, and is perhaps the most eligible site for a commercial town in all Northern California.  It is situated on the highest and healthiest ground on the whole river, the banks at this point not being subject to the annual overflow.  The largest class of steamboats and all vessels navigating the Sacramento River, can lie and discharge their cargoes directly at its banks.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Sutter was originally laid out by Captain J. A. Sutter and others, but has not until recently been brought forward by its proprietors.  It has, however, a thriving business population, and promises to become a city of the first size and importance.  Excellent roads diverge from this point to the rich placers of the North, Middle, and South Forks, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>VERNON.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Vernon is situated on the east bank of Feather River at the point of its confluence with the Sacramento, one of the most eligible positions for a town in the whole northern region of California.  The banks of the river are high and not subject to overflow, and this point is said to be at the head of ship navigation on the Sacramento.  The ground is a gentle slope, surrounded by a beautiful country.  From the town of Vernon, good and well travelled roads diverge to the rich mineral regions of the North and Middle Forks, Bear Creek, Yuba and Feather Rivers, rendering the distance much less than by any other route.  The town is growing rapidly, and promises to become a great depot for the trade of the above-mentioned mines.  The proprietors are Franklin Bates, Elisha O. Crosby, and Samuel Norriss.</P>
068.sgm:<P>BOSTON</P>
068.sgm:<P>The city of Boston is located on the northern bank of the American Fork, at its junction with the Sacramento River, about one hundred yards above the old <HI REND="italics">Embarcadero</HI>
068.sgm:, the site upon which Sacramento City now stands.  It extends upon the banks of both rivers for several miles, and is destined to become a flourishing town.  The banks of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>Boston  has been surveyed byy J. Halls, Esq., and Liet. Ringgold, U. S. N., andd is laid out in squares of two hundred and forty feet by three hundred and twenty feet, subdivided each into eight building lots eighty feet by one hundred and twenty feet, with large public squares, and reservations for school-houses, churches, and public buildings.  One of the peculiar advantages of Boston is that, being located on the northern bank of the American Fork, it is not necessary in proceeding to the gold mines to cross that river, which is exceedingly high and rapid at some seasons of the year.  The direct and most travelled road proceeds from this point to the rich placers of the Yuba, Feather River, Bear Creek, and the North, Middle, and South Forks of the American.  The soil is of the richest description, the surrounding scenery highly picturesque, and the plains in the immediate vicinity are covered with wild game of every variety which California affords.  The title to the land is indisputable, coming by warranty deed from Captain J. A. Sutter to Eleab Grimes, Hiram Grimes, and John Sinclair, bearing date August 10th, 1843.  The present owner is Hiram Grimes, Esq.  Lots are selling rapidly at from $200 to $1000 each, and before many months the city of Boston on the golden banks of the Rio Sacramento will rival its New England namesake in business and importance.</P>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>STOCKTON.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The town of Stockton is the great mart through which flows the whole transportation and travel to the placers of the Stanislaus, Mokelumne, Mariposa, Mercedes, Tuolumne, and King's River, and the various dry diggings lying between them.  Stockton is to the southern mines what Sacramento is to the northern.  The town is located upon a slough, or rather a succession of sloughs, which contain the back waters formed by the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers.  It is about fifty miles from the mouth of the San Joaquin, and one hundred from San Francisco.  The ground is high and does not overflow, and is the centre of the two great tracts of arable land which constitute the valleys of the rivers above named.  Vessels drawing from nine to ten feet of water can proceed up the San Joaquin to Stockton, and discharge their cargoes on the bank.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The town of Stockton was laid out in the latter part of 1848 by Charles M. Weber, and has been growing rapidly since.  Eight months ago there were but one frame building and a few tents, and now it is a town containing a population of nearly two thousand permanent residents, and a movable population of about a thousand more, on their way to and from the southern mines.  Several large brigs and schooners are constantly lying at the banks, and two steamboats and a large number of launches are constantly running from San Francisco.  Real estate has risen greatly in value within the past six months,--lots, which could have been purchased at that time for $300, being now worth from $3000 to $6000.  A theatre has been established at Stockton, and the town promises ere long to be a large and populous city.</P>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>STANISLAUS.</P>
068.sgm:<P>This town is laid out on the north bank of the Stanislaus River, at its junction with the San Joaquin.  The Stanislaus River is the first and largest tributary of the San Joaquin, and the river is navigable for ordinary-sized schooners and launches to this point, which, being nearer the southern mining region than Stockton, will doubtless become a great resort for miners and traders in that vicinity.  The town was originally laid out by Samuel Brannan &amp; Co.</P>
068.sgm:<P>SOUTH SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The city of South San Francisco is located on the bay, about two miles south of San Francisco, which it promises to rival at no very distant day.  The depth of water at this point is the same as that in the harbour of San Francisco, and it is said that vessels are more securely protected from the wind.  At many points in front of the town, vessels of the largest class can lie within a boat's length of the shore.  The land rises in a gentle slope, and is of a rich clayey soil, which effectually prevents dust during the prevalence of the customary winds on the bay.  The surrounding scenery is delightful, and near the town is the rich and beautiful valley in which is located the old mission of <HI REND="italics">Dolores</HI>
068.sgm:.  A stream of fine water, sufficient to supply all the shipping in the harbour, runs through the town, and the only practicable road from San Francisco to San Jose&grave;, Monterey, and the whole lower country, passes directly by it.  South San Francisco, though it may never equal its northern namesake, will at least become, at no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>ALVESO.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The want of a great commercial town at the head of the great bay of San Francisco has been supplied by the location of Alveso.  It is situated at the head of the bay, on the Guadalupe River, a stream running directly through the centre of the town, and navigable at all seasons of the year to vessels drawing twelve feet of water.  The depot and business headquarters of the two finest valleys in California, the Santa Clara and the Pueblo, where everything required for their already numerous population must be received; convenient of access to the gold mines, and directly on the route between them and San Francisco; with a climate unequalled, even in Upper California; with pure water; free from inundations at all seasons; with mills which even now furnish lumber at one-third its price in San Francisco,--the town of Alveso must inevitably grow into importance.  It has been carefully surveyed and laid out into lots; contracts have been made for the immediate erection of warehouses and dwellings, and a bridge is now being built across the Guadalupe River, connecting the two portions of the town.  The proprietors are J. D. Koppe, Peter H. Burnett, and Charles B. Marvin, who will doubtless reap a rich harvest, the fruits of their judicious enterprise.</P>
068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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068.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
068.sgm:<P>LOWER CALIFORNIA.</P>
068.sgm:<P>THE territory of Lower California (California Baja) has been so much misrepresented, that although partially foreign to the object of this work, I consider it may not be uninteresting to learn something of a country which, I am satisfied, will one day create almost as much excitement in the old world as her northern sister has already done.  A residence of six months upon the gulf of California entirely changed the opinion I had previously entertained of the country, which had been based upon reports of those who had merely sailed up or down its rugged coast.  It has been described as the "tail end of an earthquake,"--as possessing a soil upon which nothing could be grown, a hot and sickly climate, and containing no internal resources of value.</P>
068.sgm:<P>Lower California extends from Cape St. Lucas to a line running one marine league south of San Diego, being bounded on the west by the Pacific Ocean, and on the east by the gulf of California.  I went to Lower California in the full anticipation of living a miserable life for the time it would be necessary for me to remain there.  But how much was I surprised, on landing in La Paz, on the afternoon of July 21st, 1847, to find the prettiest town I had then seen in California.  The streets were lined with willow trees, which, meeting overhead, formed an arch, affording a delicious shade at midday.  The houses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:were all of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The detachment of the 7th regiment of New York Volunteers, which was ordered to La Paz, consisted of two companies, "A" and "B," under command of Lieut.  Col. Henry S. Burton.  When we arrived, we found that country in a quiet state; and although no American force had ever been stationed there, the inhabitants appeared very much pleased at our arrival, and manifested no hostility toward us.  Our orders were to take possession of, and hold the country; and in accordance with these we landed, and pitched our camp in the plaza, previous to removing into a large barrack, which was not then quite completed.  When our men were fairly barracked, the officers were allowed to live in rooms in the town, and select such places as they chose.  I found a room in the house of Don Francisco Silva, a Portuguese, who had lived long in the country, and owned the finest vineyard and fruit garden in the town.  Here I lived in a style of Eastern luxuriance.  Never before did I, and never shall I desire to enjoy life in greater perfection than I did there.  My room was in the rear of the house, and fronting upon a garden filled with grape-vines, fig, orange, lime, banana, and pomegranate trees, loaded with fruit.  I slept in a swinging cot, surrounded by a silken canopy, as a protection from mosquitoes; and often have I taken my cot, swung it before the limbs of a large fig-tree, and slept beneath that clear, unclouded sky, rocked to slumber by the delightful evening land-breeze.  In the morning, before breakfast, I would pick from the limbs and eat a few dozens of ripe, fresh figs, by way of giving me an appetite.  But the most delicious portion of this delicious life was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>If an epicure wishes to enjoy life at a low rate, I advise him to go to Lower California.  The Gulf affords every variety of fish, and all the tropical fruits grow in the greatest profusion.  For several months we lived upon green turtle, caught directly in front of the town,--some of them weighed one hundred and fifty pounds, and were sold to us at twenty-five cents apiece.  In addition to this, the shores afforded mussels and oysters in great plenty, and the soil produces every variety of vegetables.  Among the fruits of Lower California is one which grows wild, and is peculiar to the country, called the <HI REND="italics">petalla</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The climate of Lower California is equal to that of Italy or Persia.  During the whole year, the thermometer never varies ten degrees, usually ranging from eighty to ninety degrees, except at noon, when it sometimes reaches one hundred.  In the winter, no other than thin clothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>The healthiness of the country is remarkable.  During our sojourn there of more than a year, no death from sickness occurred in our detachment of more than a hundred men, and but two deaths during the whole time in the town, which consisted of fifteen hundred inhabitants.  An officer of our regiment who was stationed in Upper California, and who had been pronounced by his physicians to be in the last stage of pulmonary consumption, as a last resort went to Lower California.  The result was, that in three months he completely regained his health, and I saw him a few days since a stout, hearty man.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The people of Lower California are a curious race of beings; isolated from their mother country and neglected by her, they have assumed a sort of independence of thought and action which I never found in Upper California; but a kinder-hearted, more hospitable class of people never lived.  Their thatched houses are ever open for the reception of visiters, and a glass of wine and a paper cigar are always offered to any one who chooses to enter.  The manner in which the people of La Paz live is peculiar.  In the main street, the houses are built of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
068.sgm:, whitewashed, with roofs principally of cane and palm-tree, laid flat and covered with the shell of the pearl oyster.  Some of them are of more than one story in height.  Some of the floors are laid with large square bricks, but by far the greater portion of them are of the native mud.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:In the interior arrangement, little attention is paid to decoration.  A few camp-stools covered with leather, or a drum-shaped seat with a piece of raw hide drawn over it, a table, a bed, and an earthen jar filled with water, usually compose the furniture.  The bed is usually very neat, with clean linen sheets and curtains, with red satin covered pillows.  In the other parts of the town and on the outskirts, the houses are very small, some of them of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
068.sgm:<P>But the women, "Heaven's last, best work," how shall I describe them?  They are found in Lower California of all shades, from the blackest ebony to the whitest lily.  Where such a variety of colour could have arisen, I cannot imagine.  Their dress is usually a skirt, merely reaching to the waist, while above this, is a white bodice which does not reach quite so high in the neck as is required by the strict rules of feminine modesty.  They wear no hats or bonnets, but in lieu of them a <HI REND="italics">reboso</HI>
068.sgm:<P>Simple as are these articles of dress, the La Paz girls <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:delight as much as their more refined sisters in our nothern cities in exhibiting themselves to advantage.  I have seen a fair sen&tilde;orita on her way to church, as barefooted as the day she first trod the earth, carrying on her shoulders a beautiful silk <HI REND="italics">reboso</HI>
068.sgm:<P>In fact the morals of the whole community, male and female, need improving.  An old priest named Gabriel, who, at the time I was there, was Padre Presidente of Lower California, in open violation of his vows of chastity, was living in the family relation, and had been the means of bringing into the world no less than eleven children.  One of these had taken his name, always travelled with him, and was himself studying for the priesthood.  I witnessed a very amusing incident once with Gabriel, in which I bore a part, and which exhibits the peculiar state of morals among some of the priesthood of Mexican territory.  Gabriel was a most inveterate gambler, and often amused himself, when on his parochial tours, by opening a game of monte&grave; for any of his parishioners who chose to bet against him, although he often found difficulty in obtaining a game, because, as the "knowing ones" said, "El padre sabe mucho."</P>
068.sgm:<P>Soon after our arrival at La Paz, Gabriel, who resided in Todos Santos, came over to visit his flock in La Paz, and as we were then the lions of the place, he invited the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>After our amusement had been in progress about half an hour, during which time the padre had beaten us to the amount of a few dollars, the bell of the church tolled.  The padre laid down his cards and said with perfect <HI REND="italics">nonchalance</HI>
068.sgm:: "Dispensarne Sen&tilde;ores, tengo que bautizar un nin&tilde;o."  (Excuse me, gentlemen, I have a child to baptize.)  He invited us to proceed to the church with him, and when we arrived, we found a woman with a child anxiously waiting in the doorway.  When, however, the padre was ready to commence operations, it was found that there was no one present to stand in the capacity of <HI REND="italics">compadre</HI>
068.sgm:<P>Among such a people, ignorant but kind, and in such a glorious climate, I passed my days in happiness and pleasure.  When the shades of evening gathered around us, a little knot of us used to assemble beneath a spreading <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>Sometimes we took little excursions upon the broad and placid bay, and one of these, which extended to a visit to the Pearl Fishery, I will relate:</P>
068.sgm:<P>On a clear, beautiful, moonlit night, in the latter part of October, a party of three of us, in a little fishing-boat, stood out from the Bay of La Paz, to proceed to the Pearl Fishery of San Lorenzo, about twenty miles distant.  We chose the night, for its coolness, and for the delicious land breeze which blew our little boat so rapidly over the water, and afforded so pleasing a contrast in feeling to the burning sun and stirless atmosphere of a tropical climate.</P>
068.sgm:<P>To one who has never been buoyed on the waters of the Gulf of California, no description can convey an accurate idea of its stillness and beauty, when, at the close of the long, sunny day, it is resting beneath the smile of the unclouded, starry sky, which is ever above it.  Like a little inland lake in summer-time, unrippled and mirror-like, its waters were so clear that, even by moonlight, its shell-paved bottom was plainly discernible.  Millions of little emerald-coloured gems of phosphorescent light, were floating over its bosom; and the track of the leaping porpoises and golden dolphins was followed by a stream of liquid fire.</P>
068.sgm:<P>As we neared "Pichelingo," the entrance to the harbour, we observed on the beach, about a mile distant, a bright light, and as the land breeze was dying away, we made for it, thinking that probably a party of divers were there, on their way to the fishery.  We stood in, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:soon reached the light, which we found to be a fire built on shore.  We landed, hauled up our boat, and found two tall, naked Indians, engaged in cooking their evening meal of <HI REND="italics">pozzoli</HI>
068.sgm:<P>About 11 o'clock we rounded the low, sandy point, which forms one side of the entrance to the pretty little bay of San Lorenzo.  We were received on the beach by about three hundred tall, black-looking Indians, prepared to start on their daily occupation of diving.  Through the politeness of one of the "armadores," or owners, six of the <HI REND="italics">busos</HI>
068.sgm: (divers) were placed in our boat, and we pushed off for the fishing-ground, near the shore of the huge rocky island of Espiritu Santo.  Thirty canoes, filled with divers, started with us, and in half an hour we were on the ground.  Here the water was the most beautifully clear I ever saw.  It was some four or five fathoms in depth, but so transparent that the pearly treasures in its bed were as plain to our sight as though air only separated them from us.  The divers divested themselves of every particle of clothing, with the exception of a girdle tightly bound round their lions, and armed with nothing but a sharp-pointed stick, about a foot in length, used for the double purpose of fighting sharks and digging up the shell, they commenced their labours.  Starring up suddenly on the gunwale of the boat, and giving a shrill whistle, to expel the air from their lungs, with a dive as graceful as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>These divers are Indians from the Slake River, in the province of Sonora, who come every season to the coast of California to pursue their avocation.  About three o'clock the whole fleet started for the shore, and, arrived there, each <HI REND="italics">buso</HI>
068.sgm: carried his pile of shell on the beach, and the crew of each boat, forming a circle, threw into its centre one-half of their shells.  These were the property of the <HI REND="italics">armador</HI>
068.sgm:, and were first opened, and the pearls given to him.  The old fellow stood by, watching the divers very closely, as some of them are exceedingly expert in suddenly swallowing any valuable pearl they may chance to find in the owner's pile.  The pearls are found in the body of the oyster, of all sizes, from that of a pin's head to that of a walnut.  Sometimes a hundred oysters are opened without finding a single pearl, while in others many are found.  When the owner's oysters are all opened, each diver commences on his own pile; and any valuable pearl he may find is usually sold to the <HI REND="italics">armador</HI>
068.sgm:<P>The pearl fisheries of Lower California have been carried on since the earliest discovery of the country, and immense fortunes have been made in them.  There are at present about one hundred vessels yearly engaged in this business <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>The oysters being all opened, the divers take their first meal in the day, which consists of nothing more than a bowl of <HI REND="italics">atole</HI>
068.sgm:, a kind of water-gruel, with a little dried meat thrown into it.  This, and the use of the boats, is all that is furnished by the <HI REND="italics">armador</HI>
068.sgm:<P>It was the last day of the fishing season, and before we left, as was always the custom, the little brush houses, temporarily thrown up on the beach, were fired by the divers, and a general jubilee held.  We left them in the most glorious state of intoxication, and setting sail once more, after spending another night on the beach of Pichelingo, we arrived safely in La Paz the next day at noon.</P>
068.sgm:<P>The great resources of Lower California are its mines of silver, gold, cooper, and iron, the former metal being most abundant.  The whole mountain range, which extends along the coast, is one immense silver mine, equal in richness to those of Mexico or Peru.  At the present time only three or four mines are wrought, owing to the lack of energy in the inhabitants, and the entire absence of scientific mining apparatus,--all the necessary labour being performed by men and mules.  In making inquiries for a place to search for silver in Lower California, the old settlers in reply merely point their fingers to the mountain range, and say, "Por hay" (that way, anywhere there); and it is a fact, that a shaft may be sunk in any part of the mountains, and silver ore always extracted, varying in richness from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:fifteen to seventy per cent.  of pure silver.  The principal silver mines at present wrought are in San Antonio, halfway from La Paz to Cape St. Lucas.  These are owned by the Hidalgos, who send annually out of the country about two hundred thousand dollars worth of <HI REND="italics">plata pina</HI>
068.sgm:<P>Near Loretto are large and extensive copper mines; lead and iron are found everywhere, and gold-washings have always been wrought in the country with considerable success.  If this territory ever becomes settled by an energetic population, millions of wealth will be annually gathered in its borders, and it will stand side by side in point of riches with the countries that have already made themselves famous by the wealth lying in their bosoms.</P>
068.sgm:<P>As an agricultural country Lower California is rather deficient, although there are many watered valleys which produce in great profusion all the common culinary vegetables, and wherever the soil can be irrigated, it produces all the tropical fruits and the vegetables of the temperate zones in great luxuriance.  Cotton of the finest staple grows wild upon the plains around La Paz, and cane, from which a very good article of sugar is made, grows all over the land.  Wine is made from the grape of the country, which is of the most delicious kind.</P>
068.sgm:<P>When we went to Lower California, our orders were to assure the inhabitants that their country was to be retained as a portion of the territory of the United States.  The message of President Polk and the proclamation of Commodore Shubrick supported this idea, and upon the representations thus made, the most influential inhabitants committed themselves to the American cause, and were exceedingly gratified with the expected result.  In the month of November, we were attacked by a Mexican force of six hundred, under command of Don Manuel Pineda, a captain in the Mexican army, who published a long proclamation threatening death and destruction to the Californians who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:supported our cause.  Notwithstanding this, during a severe and trying siege, which lasted six weeks, many of the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
068.sgm:<P>Never in the history of wars among civilized nations was there a greater piece of injustice committed, and the United States government deserves for it the imprecations of all who have a sense of justice remaining in them.  The probability is, that some ignorant scribbler, who had cast his eyes upon the rugged rocks that girdle her sea-coast, had represented Lower California as a worthless country, and that, forgetting justice and good faith, our government left this compromised people to suffer at the hands of their own brethren.  The result was that many of them were obliged to fly from their country and go to Upper California, their property was confiscated and they can never return to their homes but with the brand of traitors resting upon them.</P>
068.sgm:<P>It is the duty of our government to repair if possible the wrong thus done.  Lower California must at some time inevitably be a territory of the United States.  It is a peculiarity of the Yankee race that, like the western farmer, they only want to possess "all the land that joins them;" and this country, isolated as it is from Mexico, inhabited by a people who heartily hate the institutions of their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
068.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
068.sgm:<P>In order to prevent the disastrous consequences which must ensue from a re-enaction of the Texas tragedies, and to render justice to a people whose confidence has been abused by our government, I would respectfully recommend to the home government the immediate commencement of negotiations for the purchase of this valuable and interesting territory.  The appointment of commissioners to report upon its resources and its value in a naval point of view, would be speedily followed by its purchase, and thus would be prevented the piratical expeditions for the seizure of the country which otherwise will soon be under taken.</P>
068.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
069.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-069</TITLE>
069.sgm:<TITLE>The diary of a forty-niner. Edited by Chauncey L. Canfield: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
069.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
069.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
069.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
069.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
069.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>21-4325</LCCN>
069.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
069.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>285717</COPYRIGHT>
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069.sgm:<P>THE DIARY OF A FORTY-NINER</p><P><HI REND="italics">Edited by</HI>
069.sgm:</p><P>CHAUNCEY L. CANFIELD</p><P>BOSTON AND NEW YORK</p><P>HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY</p><P>The Riverside Press Cambridge</p><P>1920</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1906, BY MORGAN SHEPARD COMPANY</p><P>ALL RIGHTS RESERVED</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>TO MY WIFE, MY CHUM FOR</p><P>A QUARTER OF A CENTURY,</p><P>THIS BOOK IS LOVINGLY</p><P>DEDICATED</p><P>CHAUNCEY L. CANFIELD</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>Now and again there comes out of the dim past something which opens up an hitherto unknown or forgotten page in history.  A copper implement from a lake midden, a chipped arrow head from a cave, a deciphered hieroglyphic from the face of a granite rock, a ruined temple in an overgrown jungle by means of which we rescue a chapter that tells of men's works and men's lives, former generations, who cumbered the earth for a brief time and passed away and of whose existence even tradition is silent.  There are fascinating revealments that excite a momentary interest only, for, barring the scientist, we live in the present, and how our remote ancestors throve or what they did gives us but little concern.  The long ago is vague, the cave dwellers and the temple builders existed in fable land, and, while we concede the importance of the discoveries, we leave the study to the specialists and magazine writers and do not burden our mind with ancient history.  This indifference not only obtains with reference to the tribes and peoples who have disappeared off of the earth; it is equally true of comparatively recent events.</p><P>Probably no one thing has had a greater influence upon the progress and expansion of our own country than the discovery of gold in California in 1849, following the material wealth that it added to the world's store.  Figures of billion gold production have been recorded and preserved, but beyond <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:that there is no authentic or truthful record.  That unique period is without its historian, and in only a vague way is it comprehended.  The present generation is content to adopt Bret Harte's tales as veracious chronicles of life in the foothills and mining camps of the "Fifties," yet every old pioneer knows that his types were exaggerated, the miners' dialect impossible and unknown; but he illumined his pages with genius, he caught the atmosphere, and neither protest nor denial are sufficient to remove the belief that he was writing real history.  As for the latter day romancers, who attempt to reproduce pioneer times, they are usually mushy imitators of Harte who romance without knowledge or understanding.  Those old, free, careless days were and are without parallel.  The conditions that created them vanished with the exhaustion of the shallow "diggings," and when in creek, gulch and ravine the golden harvest had been gathered life became prosaic and dull, with the dullness propriety asserted itself, the conventions of a more exacting social order crept in and the amazing foothill days of the "Fifties" existed only as legend and tradition.</p><P>Perhaps it was best.  Men were getting dangerously close to Paganism, yielding to the beckoning of "the wild," the insidious climatic influence of the pine-clothed hills, and it was well that the shackles of civilization should again fetter them.  A great empire demanded development, fertile valleys invited cultivation, and the "cow counties" (as the plains were contemptuously termed by the miners), with the decay of mining, began to assert their importance and supremacy.  In the "Sixties" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:new conditions sprang into existence and finis was written to the characteristics of the days of "'49."</p><P>To write understandingly of that period one must have lived in it; to catch the spirit one must have been a part of it.  In these prosy days of railroads and trusts it is a fable, resting on no better authority than the romancers' creations or senile maunderings of the belated pioneer.  And yet the half has not been told.  Then fact was romance and romance fact.  To be rich was not to be envied, to be poor brought no reproach.  Brawn and muscle counted for more than brains; health and strength was a more available capital than a college education.</p><P>There lately came into possession of the editor of the text that follows this preface a stout, leather-bound book of some three hundred pages, containing a jumble of accounts and records of happenings and incidents ranging from the cost of provisions and supplies to notes of the doings of mining chums and neighbors.  Bearing every evidence of genuineness, it purported to be the experiences of one Alfred T. Jackson, a pioneer miner who cabined and worked on Rock Creek, Nevada County, California.  In the lapse of the fifty odd years since it had been written, the ink had faded and turned yellow, many of the lines were barely legible, and a dozen of the first leaves of the book had been torn away.  Fortunately, the remainder was intact and the subject matter proved to be of vital historical interest.  Here at last was a truthful, unadorned, veracious chronicle of the placer mining days of the foothills, a narrative of events as they occurred; told in simple and, at times, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:ungrammatical sentences, yet vivid and truth compelling in the absence of conscious literary endeavor.  One speculates as to the motive that impelled the author to persist in his diary.  He was not a Pepys, his naive confessions do not always give the real state of his mind or the true reasons for his actions.  He was inclined to self-deception, was not frank with himself while pretending that its pages were intended only for his own eye.  It is reasonable to believe that he entertained a lurking idea that it might see the light and this, with the relaxation it afforded him from a contemplation of his hardships and sordid surroundings, made it a pleasant Sunday evening task.  At any rate, it is a unique contribution to the history of the era subsequent to the discovery of gold on the flanks of the Sierra Nevadas.  It sets forth graphically the successive steps in gold mining, from the pan and rocker to the ground sluice and flume, and the quaint belief of the pioneers that the placer gold deposits would soon give out, that the sojourn was but a transient one and that nothing then remained but a return to the "States."  Equally interesting is the gradual evolution of the diarist, from the Puritanical New Englander, bound and shackled with the prejudices of generations, narrow and limited in his views and opinions, morally uncontaminated and unsophisticated in his experiences, to the broader and more typical Californian whose mental growth was stimulated by the freedom of his environment and associations.  He becomes tolerant, worldly wise, more charitable to his fellowmen, convinced that over and beyond the horizon of the Litchfield hills, from whence he came, there was a world worth knowing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:and a life better worth living.  The stay in the foothills made the at first alluring prospect of a return to his old home, even as the richest man in the village, not only irksome to contemplate, but impossible to endure.</p><P>That he was deeply indebted to "Pard," who was at one and the same time his mentor and friend, the record gives ample proof.  Who among the old Californians that does not recall the instances of those wonderful friendships, resulting from like associations?  "They cabined together in the `Fifties'"; that signified a relationship, intimate and more self-sacrificing than that of brothers, a love that rose superior and forgave the irascibility resulting from toil, exposure and fatigue; that overlooked the exasperating repetition of sour bread and a scorching in the bean pot, and condoned the irritating effects of hard fare and rude shelter.  Our hero convincingly illustrates the growth and strength of the affection that bound each to the other with "hooks of steel" and the interdependence their close companionship created.</p><P>No less fascinating is the romance interwoven in the pages of the diary.  Its culmination, leaving the man on the threshold of a new life, while tantalizing in the vagueness of what the future might be, does not admit of a doubt that this sturdy, self-reliant American was equal to a successful grapple with life's problems in whatever path he might take.</p><P>As a final word, the inside of the front cover bore the name of Alfred T. Jackson, Norfolk, Litchfield County, Conn., October 10, 1849.  The entries range over a period of two years and the people referred to were persons who actually existed, not only in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I<HSEP>1<LB>The Hardships of a Miner's Life--Letters From Home--The Express Rider and His Welcome Call--The Beginnings of Nevada City--Tapping a Monte Bank--A Fascinating Twenty-One Dealer--Wingdaming the River--An Indian Funeral Ceremony--The Ups and Downs of Mining--The Advent of the Long-Tom on Rock Creek.<LB>CHAPTER II<HSEP>15<LB>Bunking With Pard--A Rich Claim--The First Ground Sluice--Siestas Under the Big Pine--Naming the Town--A Dog Fight and a Purchase--The Grass-Widow Secures a Mate--A Shivaree and Its Consequences--Banished From Selby Flat--Anderson's Eccentricities.<LB>CHAPTER III<HSEP>25<LB>A Rattlesnake on the Trail--Claim Jumping and a Tragedy--Miners' Courts and the Alcalde--Raising the Anti-Debris Question--The First Sermon and a Liberal Collection--A Welcome Storm--Pack Mule Load of Coarse Gold--Riparian Rights--An Expensive Chicken Broth--Begging Letter From North.<LB>CHAPTER IV<HSEP> 35<LB>The Forest in Autumn--A Sluice Robber and the Whipping Post--North as a Monte Dealer--An Encounter With a Highwayman--High-Priced Hay--Another Meeting With the Frenchwoman--Mexicans Discover a Big Bonanza--An Eviction by Force--Recognition of the Rights of Foreign Miners.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER V<HSEP>45<LB>Weather Contrasts--Anticipating the Exhaustion of the Placers--A Lively Dance at Selby Flat--The Fight Between the Jackass and the Ferocious Bear--Decamping Showmen--The Town Celebrates the Event--A Foothill Ditty--The Murder of Henry North--Following the Channels Under the Mountain--The Growth of Nevada City.<LB>CHAPTER VI<HSEP>55<LB>A Real Estate Speculation--Encounter With a Road Agent--Discovery of Rich Quartz Veins at Grass Valley--A Valuable Specimen--Madame Ferrand Visits Rock Creek--Rich Diggings on the North Yuba--Generosity of the Pioneers--The Twenty-One Dealer's Fortune.<LB>CHAPTER VII<HSEP>65<LB>A Trip to San Francisco--Speculating in Sandhill Lots--High Living--Hetty Breaks the Engagement--Back in the Claim--Nevada County Organized--Drawing Money From a Gravel Bank--More Gold Discoveries--The Rescue of a Party of Unfortunate Immigrants--The "Lost Grave."<LB>CHAPTER VIII<HSEP>75<LB>Murder on the Trail--A Pursuing Posse--Wanted, a French Dictionary--Caring for the Distressed Immigrants--Jackson's Confession--The Jolly Crowd at the Saleratus Ranch--A Midnight Concert and a Row--Haying in the Mountains--Letters From Home--The Old Folks Taking it Easy--A Peace Persuader--Pard's Disposition Changes for the Better.<LB>CHAPTER IX<HSEP>87<LB>Women Arriving in the Country--Our Hero Wrestles With the French Language--A Waiter Who Could Not Understand His Native Tongue--The Rival Fourth of July Celebration at Selby Flat--Close to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Lynching Bee--Pard Gets a Surprise--Forming a River Mining Company--The Sandhill Speculation Prospers--Anderson's Revelation.<LB>CHAPTER X<HSEP>97<LB>Fascination of the Sierra Foothills--An Ideal Friendship--Lousy Level--Jack and the Mountain Lion--The Burning Pine--Sawmill Invasion of the Forests--Mounting a Broncho--Cruel Punishment Dealt to Petty Thieves--Departure for the River.<LB>CHAPTER XI<HSEP>107<LB>Fluming the South Yuba--In the Bed of the Stream--A Picturesque Camp--Guarding the Gold Dust--Extending the Real Estate Speculation--Jackson Forms the Reading Habit--The Fascination of the "Three Musketeers"--A Reformation at Selby Flat--An Experimental Vegetable Garden on Rock Creek--The Biggest Poker Game to Date.<LB>CHAPTER XII<HSEP>117<LB>A Trip to the Mountains--An Experience in a Sierra Snowstorm--Perils of the North Fork Can&tilde;on--An Opportune Find of a Deserted Cabin--Entertainment For Man and Beast--The Return to Rock Creek--Hospitable Miners--Discovery of the Big Blue Lead--Opening the Ancient River Channels.<LB>CHAPTER XIII<HSEP>129<LB>Setting Sluice Boxes--Promised Christmas Feast at Selby Flat--The First Newspaper Established--Hermit Platt Tells His Story--A Pioneer Overland Expedition Across the Arid Arizona Deserts--Perils and Dangers of the Journey--A Welcome Oasis--Arrival at Don Warner's Ranch--Sad News Awaits the Argonaut at San Francisco.<LB>CHAPTER XIV<HSEP>137<LB>A Sensation on the Flat--The Mysterious Disappearance of the Turkeys--The No-Gobbler Betters Win <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Their Wagers--An Angry Landlord--The Saleratus Ranch Under Suspicion--Just a Plain, Everyday Dinner--The Rendezvous and a Feast Down the Creek--The Sweetheart Delays Her Return--The Jackass Escapes a Serenade.<LB>CHAPTER XV<HSEP>145<LB>Strange Disappearance of Carter and Ristine--A Deserted Shanty--Ristine's Death--Revelations at the Inquest--Who Stole the Turkeys?--A Rich Streak on the Bed-Rock--Pard Bars the Banjo--Hetty has a Change of Heart--The Interior of a Miner's Cabin--A Sentimental Picture--Friendship, Prosperity, and Contentment.<LB>CHAPTER XVI<HSEP>155<LB>The Raging Yuba--A Visit to the River--Bad Case of Jim-Jams--A Swarm of Tin-Jacketed Imps--Sunday in Nevada--Food Famine in the Mining Camps--Rattlesnake Dick Shoots Up the Town--A Quartz-Mining Speculation and its Failure.<LB>CHAPTER XVII<HSEP>163<LB>A Formidable Indictment of the Turkey Thieves--An Old-Time Legal Document--Haled into Court--The Trial, the Verdict, and the Penalty--A Safety Valve for the Wild Spirits--The Jackass Not For Sale--Pard's Tender Heart--His Consideration for Bird and Beast and Affection for His Cabin-Mate--The Donkey's Correct Principles.<LB>CHAPTER XVIII<HSEP>171<LB>Jackson Visits the Neighboring Mining Camps--Pocket-Hunting at Rough and Ready--A Puzzle for the Theorists--A Section of a Dead River--Speculation on the Genesis of Gold--The Old-Timers' Dictum--First Visit to the Theater--Pard Returns From San Francisco--A Profitable Investment--Jackson Decides to Marry His French Sweetheart.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER XIX<HSEP>181<LB>Pard Brushes Up in His Profession--No Deference Paid to Wealth--How Fortune Favored Jenkins--When You Have Got the Luck, It's With You From Start to Finish--Jim Vineyard's Hard Streak--A Moving Tale of a Missed Opportunity--One Man's Loss Another Man's Gain--Trousers Pockets vs. Money Belts.<LB>CHAPTER XX<HSEP>189<LB>The Unsociable Couple on Round Mountain--Good Fellowship Among the Pioneers--The Tax-Collector Passes the Miners By--A Woman in Breeches--Marie Returns From France--Adoption of a New Method of Sluicing--The Dog and Donkey Strike up a Friendship--Frank Dunn and His Eccentricities--Posing as a Horrible Example.<LB>CHAPTER XXI<HSEP>199<LB>A Successful Experiment--A Joke on the Visitors--Road Agents Hold Up a Stage--Unchivalric Treatment of the Woman Passenger--Meeting of the Lovers--Jackson's Word Picture of the Beauties of the Landscape, Viewed From Sugar Loaf--The Reconciliation of Anderson and his Wife--Marie's Comments.<LB>CHAPTER XXII<HSEP>207<LB>A Placid Life--Marie Observes the Proprieties--Pard Plans for the Future--The Progress of a Love Idyll--Reelfoot Williams and His Gang--Jack's Warning--Robbery of the Blue Tent Store--A Fruitless Pursuit--Negotiating the Sale of Mining Properties--Shallow Placers Worked Out and Deep Diggings Taking Their Place.<LB>CHAPTER XXIII<HSEP>217<LB>A Combination to Work Rock Creek--Extracting Gold From Blue Cement--The Critical Cats at Selby <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Flat--French Cooking in the Old Cabin--The Influx of Chinamen into the Mines--A Joint Visit to Round Mountain--Marie Predicts an Explosion--No Cause for Interference.<LB>CHAPTER XXIV<HSEP>225<LB>The Partners Sell Out the Creek Claim--Jackson's Reputation in His Old Home--Providing for the Jackass's Future--The Slocum Farm Has No Attraction--Loafing the Days Away--Rushes to New Localities--Trouble on Round Mountain--Scandalmongers' Tongues Let Loose--Chinamen Show Fight and are Run Off of Deer Creek.<LB>CHAPTER XXV<HSEP>233<LB>Sad Termination of the Round Mountain Mystery--A Suicide's Cynical Farewell--The Intrusion of the "Eternal Feminine"--Pard's Remarks--"Let There Be No Clack of Idle Tongues"--An Impressive Ceremony and a Solitary Grave--The Partners Grow Sentimental Over the Old Log Cabin and Their Mutual Experiences--Preparing for a Leave-Taking.<LB>CHAPTER XXVI<HSEP>239<LB>Distributing Personal Effects--Pard's Farewell Dinner--"Zey Are Ze Good Boys"--Champagne and Its Effects--The Last Sitting Under the Old Pine Tree--Voices of the Night Chorus a Melancholy Farewell--Wind-up of Jackson's Diary--The Fate of Hetty and a Last Word in Regard to the Actors Who Have Figured in the Old-Time Record.<LB>EPILOGUE<HSEP>249</p></DIV></DIV>
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069.sgm:<BODY><DIV><DIV>
069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>THE HARDSHIPS OF A MINER'S LIFE--LETTERS FROM HOME--THE EXPRESS RIDER AND HIS WELCOME CALL--THE BEGINNINGS OF NEVADA CITY--TAPPING A MONTE BANK--A FASCINATING TWENTY-ONE DEALER--WINGDAMING THE RIVER--AN INDIAN FUNERAL CEREMONY--THE UPS AND DOWNS OF MINING--THE ADVENT OF THE LONG-TOM ON ROCK CREEK.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>MAY 19, 1850.</p><P>--The pork I bought in town last night is the stinkenest salt junk ever brought around the Horn.  It is a hardship that we can't get better hog meat, as it's more than half of our living.  We fry it for breakfast and supper, boil it with our beans, and sop our bread in the grease.  Lord knows we pay enough for it.  When I first settled on the creek it was a dollar a pound and the storekeeper talks about it being cheap now at sixty cents.  I believe that if it were not for the potatoes that are fairly plenty and the fact that the woods are full of game, we would all die of scurvy.  There is plenty of beef, such as it is, brought up in droves from Southern California, but it's a tough article and we have to boil it to get it tender enough to eat.  There is a hunter who lives over on Round Mountain and makes a living killing deer and peddling the meat among the miners.  He charges fifty cents a pound for venison steaks and he told me he made more money than the average miner.  I paid seventy-five cents apiece in town yesterday for two apples and did not begrudge the money.  I was told that they were grown in Oregon, which seemed strange, as I did not know that country had been settled long enough to raise fruit.</p><P>Will sell no more dust to M--.  He allowed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:only $17.00 an ounce and then blew out two dollars' worth of fine gold; said it was not clean.  Jerry Dix, who is only two claims above me on the creek, gets $18.50 for his at the store, but it always weighs short.  They are all in a ring to rob us poor miners.  Sent an eleven dollar specimen home to dad.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sack of flour</HI>
069.sgm: $14.00</p><P><HI REND="italics">Ten lbs. pork</HI>
069.sgm: 6.00</p><P><HI REND="italics">One lb. tea</HI>
069.sgm: 2.50</p><P><HI REND="italics">Ten lbs. beans</HI>
069.sgm: 3.00</p><P><HI REND="italics">Two cans yeast powders</HI>
069.sgm: 1.00</p><P><HI REND="italics">Five lbs. sugar</HI>
069.sgm: 2.50</p><P><HI REND="italics">Codfish</HI>
069.sgm: 2.00</p><P><HI REND="italics">Twenty lbs. potatoes</HI>
069.sgm: 6.00</p><P><HI REND="italics">Five lbs. dried apples</HI>
069.sgm: 1.50</p><P><HI REND="italics">Pair boots</HI>
069.sgm: 16.00</p><P><HI REND="italics">Can molasses</HI>
069.sgm: 3.00</p><P><HI REND="italics">Duck overalls</HI>
069.sgm: 2.50</p><P><HI REND="italics">Shirt</HI>
069.sgm: 2.00</p><P><HI REND="italics">Shovel</HI>
069.sgm: 2.50</p><P><HI REND="italics">Pick</HI>
069.sgm: 2.50</p><P>$67.00</p><P>I was charged four dollars for delivering the lot at the creek Sunday morning.  Forgot to get some powder and shot.  Paid four bits apiece for two New York Heralds.</p><P>There is another man who is making money.  All of our letters come by mail to Sacramento and are then sent by express to Hamlet Davis, the storekeeper on Deer Creek, who acts as postmaster, although he has no legal appointment.  He is the big gold dust buyer of the camp and can afford to do the work for nothing, as it brings most of the miners to his store.  Johnny Latham, the express <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:rider, contracts to carry letters and papers for two bits each and rides the trails and creeks for miles around delivering them, beside selling newspapers to such as want the latest news from the "States."  We are always pleased when his mule heaves in sight and would gladly give him the weight of the letters in gold if we had to.  How heartsick we get for news from the old home way off here out of the world and there is no disappointment quite as bad as when he passes us by without handing over the expected letter.  My folks are mighty good; they never miss a steamer.</p><P>Everybody on the creek gone to town and it's pretty lonesome.  I had to answer letters from Norfolk and that made me more homesick.  I wonder what mother would say if she saw my bunk.  Have not put in fresh pine needles for three weeks.  I know she would like my bread; the boys all say I am the best bread baker on the creek.  Wrote her a good long letter and sent dad the "Miners' Ten Commandments."</p><P>Wouldn't I like to be with them just for a day!</p><P>MAY 26, 1850.</p><P>--Rocked sixty buckets each day during the week and got 7 1/2 ounces.  Only worked half a day Saturday.  Did not go to town.  Sent over by Jim Early for some tobacco--five plugs for two dollars.  Went hunting this morning; killed seventeen quail and four pigeons.  They make a good stew if the rotten pork didn't spoil it, but it's better than the bull beef the butcher packs around.  Took a snooze in the afternoon till the squawking of the blue jays woke me up.  I don't mind them so much, but when the doves begin to mourn it seems <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:as if I couldn't stand it.  I get to thinking of dear old mother and dad and the old place, and wondering what they were all doing.  I know.  They went to church this morning, and then set around and did nothing until chore time.  I'll bet they didn't forget me.</p><P>I hear there are three women over on Selby Flat.  Selby's brother, keeping a boarding house, and a grass-widow from Missouri, a skittish old woman who is looking for another husband.  The camp has more people than the settlement at Caldwell's store on Deer Creek.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">(Note.--The camp at Caldwell's store grew into the present Nevada City.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>What we miss more than anything else is that there are no women in the country, or comparatively few.  Barring out the greasers and the squaws, I don't suppose there are twenty in all of Yuba County, outside of Marysville.  With few exceptions they are of no particular credit to their sex.  To one who was born and brought up where there were more women than men, it is hard to realize what a hardship it is to be deprived of their company.  To hear some of the miners talk--the married ones--you would think their wives were angels, and maybe they were, but I guess it is because they are so far away.  Still, when I recall Hetty North, it seems as if she was the dearest girl in the world, and, although we used to have lots of quarrels and tiffs and broke off our engagement a dozen times, I don't believe we would have a cross word if she were here with me now.</p><P>JUNE 2, 1850.</p><P>--Claim paying pretty well.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Washed out over five ounces, besides two nuggets, one nine and one eleven dollars.  Could do better if the water did not bother so much.  Got two long letters from home.  Thank God, they are all well, or were a month ago.  Dad got the two hundred I sent him; says I mustn't stint myself to send money home.  The neighbors think I am making a big fortune and many of the boys are planning to go to California this summer.  Henry North has sold a yoke of oxen and his three-year-old colt, and starts next month.  That is this month and he must be on the way.  I like Henry, but I care more for his sister Hetty.  I wonder if she will wait as she promised, until I get back.  Baked enough bread to last until Saturday.  Anderson spent the evening at the cabin.  He is crazy on river mining.  He and friends have located claims on the Yuba and are going to turn the river when the water runs low.  He is certain if he can get down on bed-rock he will take out gold by the bucketful.  Wants me to join the company.</p><P>JUNE 9, 1850.</p><P>--Went to town yesterday afternoon.  With last week's washings I had eighteen ounces besides the nuggets.  Spent $27 at the store and deposited $200.  Had two bully meals at the hotel; first pie I have eaten since I got here.  The town is full of drunken miners.  Have kept my promise to mother and have not touched a drop since I started.  Went into the Bella Union gambling saloon.  The place was full and running over with gamblers and miners, and the latter seemed to be trying to get rid of their money as fast as possible.  At some of the tables they were playing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:for high stakes, as much as one hundred dollars on the turn of a card.  Monte was the most popular game and while I was there "Texas Bill" tapped one of the banks for two thousand dollars and won on the first pull.  Then he took the dealer's seat and the banker quit until he could raise another stake.<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">(Note.--"Tapping the bank" was the wagering by an outsider of an amount equalling the cash backing the game.  Bets were usually limited to fifty dollars a single bet, but flush gamblers would often dare the dealer to accept a wager decided by a single deal of the cards, which if won doubled the bank's capital or broke it.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>There was a young French woman dealing twenty-one.  She was as pretty as a picture.  Began betting just to get near her and hear her talk.  I lost seventy dollars and she did not notice me any more than she did the rest of the crowd.  What would Hetty say if she knew I gambled?  Four days' hard work gone for nothing!</p><P>JUNE 16, 1850.</p><P>--Worked but three days last week.  Had the cholera morbus pretty bad, but some Jamaica Ginger fetched me around all right.  Took out just two ounces.  Henry North wrote me a letter from San Francisco.  He was broke and wanted enough money to come here.  Sent him fifty dollars.  I'll be glad to see him.  Got a long letter from dad.  He says mother is grieving about me being so far away and is afraid I will fall into temptation.  She knows from what she sees in the papers that California must be an awful wicked place.  Dad tells her that I come from old Connecticut stock and he isn't afraid of his boy not coming out all right.  Wonder what he'd say if he knew about my losing money in a game of chance.</p><P>I hear that Anson James and his partner took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:out fourteen hundred dollars on Brush Creek last week.  That beats Rock Creek, but Brush is all taken up.  Anderson is after me to go river mining with him.  He is getting up a company of ten men; has seven now and they will put up two hundred and fifty dollars apiece for capital.  They want that for lumber, which costs one hundred dollars a thousand, and they need twenty thousand feet for wingdam and a flume, whatever that means.  If my claim gives out before August, may go with them.  Saw two deer on the hill back of the cabin and Anderson says a grizzly was killed up at the head of the creek last week.  There are thousands of wild pigeons in the woods, but they are not fit to eat.  The acorns they feed on make their flesh taste bitter.</p><P>JUNE 23, 1850.</p><P>--Have not heard from Henry North.  He ought to have been here last week.  I have been fairly homesick all the week, working in the claim alone, and I am so dead tired when night comes that it's a task to cook supper, although there isn't much to cook.  There is always a pot of cold beans and I fry a piece of pork for the grease, to sop my bread in, and make a cup of tea.  I roll up in the blankets and go to bed at eight o'clock and try to get to sleep just to keep from thinking, although I can't always do it.  Thoughts of the old home will come into my head and it brings up everything that has happened since I was a boy.  The frogs croak down in the creek just as they did on Norfolk Pond, and it's the lonesomest sound on earth, barring the doves.  There is a sort of a dog here that the greasers call a coyote, and you would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:swear when night comes on that there were a thousand of them yelping in the hills and around the cabin.  Sometimes I get up and go outdoor, out under the stars, and wonder what Hetty is doing and whether she will wait.  If she saw me sniffling and the tears rolling down my cheeks she would think I wasn't much of a man.  I wish Henry North would come--it wouldn't be so lonesome.  Rich diggings have been found on Kanaka Creek and a lot of miners have gone over to take up claims.  Took out a little over five ounces for the week.</p><P>There is an Indian campoody up on the ridge above Brush Creek, where about two hundred Digger Indians are camped.  They are the dirtiest lot of human beings on earth.  One has to be careful going near the place, or he will surely get the itch.  They will eat anything, acorns, grasshoppers, or seeds, and I have seen an old squaw pull a rotten pine log apart hunting for a white grub as big as my little finger, and, when she found one, swallow it alive with as much relish as if it were a fat oyster.  There are two white men who have taken squaws to live with them in their cabins down on the river, but it is looked on as a disgrace and no decent miner will associate with them.  The Indians burn their dead and I went over to the ridge with Jim Gleason to a buck's funeral Friday night.  It was a queer ceremony.  They piled up a cord or more of pine limbs, wrapped the buck in a blanket, deposited his body on the pile, together with his bow and arrows, clothes and small belongings, and set it on fire.  The bucks of the tribe set around outside in the shadows, glum and silent as ghosts.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:squaws joined hands and kept up a stamping, first with one foot and then the other, wailing together in a mournful chorus, which sounded like "wallah tu nae" and which they repeated over and over as long as I stayed there.  Others replenished the fire with fresh pine knots and limbs.  The main attraction was an old, ugly squaw, who, I was told, although no relation to the buck, was chosen chief mourner.  She went into a frenzy, howling and screeching like mad, contorting and twisting her body and spinning round and round until she exhausted herself and tumbled to the ground.  Then she would come to and crawl to the fire, get hold of a piece of wood out of which the pitch was frying and daub it over her head and face until her hair was saturated with tar.  They say that she never washes herself or tries to get the pitch off, and the buck's wife can't take another man until the tar wears away.  It got to be monotonous and disgusting and I came away by midnight, but the Indians kept it up two nights, or until the last vestige of the body was burned up.  What heathens they are to dispose of their dead in such a barbarous way instead of burying them decently in the ground!</p><P>JUNE 30, 1850.</p><P>--This last week was my lucky one.  Wednesday I struck a crevice in the bed-rock on the rim of the creek and it was lousy with gold.  It took me two days to work it out and I got almost twenty-nine ounces, which with three ounces rocked the first two days raised the week's work to more than five hundred dollars.  Sent dad seven hundred dollars last night.  That makes twelve hundred dollars that he has of my savings.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:The strike helped me to get rid of the homesick feeling that has made me miserable for two weeks.  Seems to me old Litchfield is nearer than it was, and I may fetch it before the rains come.  The only thing bothering me is that the claim is almost worked out and I'll have to hunt new diggings soon.  Strange I haven't heard from North since I sent him that fifty dollars.  I got a letter from Hetty, however, the first I have received, asking me to look after him.  Said he was weak and easily led.  This is no place for weaklings, but I'll take care of him for her sake.  Had two square meals in town yesterday.  They put me out of face with my regular grub.</P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<p>picking a banjo and singing a song in town to-day and it kept running in my head.  It was about "Joe Bowers from Pike."  The second verse was:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I used to love a gal there, they called her Sally Black,<LB> I axed her for to marry me, she said It was a whack;<LB>But, ses she to me, Joe Bowers, before We hitch for life,<LB>You ought to have a little home to Keep your little wife.<LB></HI>
069.sgm:</p><P>If I can save enough money to buy the Slocum farm next to our place and Hetty says "yes," I'll have that "little home and little wife" and that will be about all I want on this earth.  I would like to have enough capital so that I would not have to slave from sunrise till dark as I did on dad's farm.  I don't know as the work was any harder than what we do here, but there is a difference.  There all we got was just about a bare living, at the best a few hundred dollars put away for a year's work, but here one don't know what the next stroke of the pick, or the next rocker full of dirt, may bring forth--an ounce or twenty ounces it may be.  That is the excitement and fascination that makes one endure the hardships, working up to one's knees in cold water, breaking one's back in gouging and crevicing, the chance that the next panful will indicate the finding of a big deposit.  That's the charm and it would be a great life were it not for the nights and the lonely cabin with only one's thoughts for company.  It brings up to my mind a piece I used to recite at school.  "Oh, solitude! where are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:the charms that sages have seen in thy face?"  It's deadly lonesome and there are times when it seems as if I just could not stand it any longer.  Baked two big loaves of bread in the Dutch oven.  That will last through the week.</p><P>JULY 21, 1850.</p><P>--Two weeks since I took up my pen.  My hands are all calloused and I can do better work with a shovel than writing diaries.  Have had bad luck; only cleaned up a little over four ounces and the claim is pretty near played out.  Anderson offers me a share in his claim.  He's working on a dry gulch just about half a mile north of the cabin.  It's rich on the bed-rock, but he has to strip off about ten feet of top dirt and then pack the gravel down to the creek a couple of hundred yards.  He offers me one-half a share in the ground if I will help him cut a ditch from the creek to the claim to carry the water to it.  We will have to dig about a quarter of a mile.  He says there is a new way of taking out gold by a machine called a Long Tom.  He saw it working at Kellogg's claim on Brush Creek and as much dirt can be put through it in a day as one can with a rocker in a week.  I will go over and look at it to-morrow.  Anderson is a good fellow and the only one on the creek I care much about.  He is from Syracuse, New York, and has a good education.  If I take his offer we will cabin together and it won't be so lonesome.  Haven't heard a word from North and I don't know where to write him.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>BUNKING WITH PARD--A RICH CLAIM--THE FIRST GROUND SLUICE--SIESTAS UNDER THE BIG PINE--NAMING THE TOWN--A DOG FIGHT AND A PURCHASE--THE GRASS--WIDOW SECURES A MATE--A SHIVAREE AND ITS CONSEQUENCES--BANISHED FROM SELBY FLAT--ANDERSON'S ECCENTRICITIES.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>JULY 28, 1850.</p><P>--I went over and saw the Long Tom working.  It will revolutionize mining if it will save the gold.  Took plans of it.  I'm handy with tools and knocked one together without much trouble.  The Nevada blacksmith charged me four dollars to punch the holes in the sheet-iron plate.  Set it up on the claim Friday and took out about two ounces that day.  Worked a strip eight feet square.  That is as much as I did in a week with a rocker.  All the miners up and down the creek came to see it working.  I had offers of two ounces apiece to make three of them, but I've promised Anderson to begin work on the ditch as soon as I get through with the claim.  Had a letter from dad that gave me the blues.  Dear old mother is ailing and pining to see me--afraid something will happen to me.  Well, I am way off out of the world, but I've got the best of health.  I wrote her a long letter cheering her up and promising I would come back as soon as I got six thousand dollars together.  Dad says Hetty is a good girl and I could not pick out a better wife and that she comes over to the place regularly and asks them to read to her my letters.  Some of the married miners are planning to bring their wives out from the States.  About the only thing holding them back is the certainty that it will not take long to clean up all the gold there is in the country and then there would be nothing left to do except to go back again.  A lot argue that they can go to farming in the valleys; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:but with the mines worked out and the miners gone out of the mountains, where would they have a market for what they raised?</p><P>AUGUST 4, 1850.</p><P>--Had a great streak of luck last week.  Worked out the claim and before I moved the Tom, tried some of the rocker tailings.  They were as rich as if the dirt had not been washed and I took nineteen ounces out of the riffle box beside a nugget that weighed nearly an ounce.  I've taken out of the claim about one hundred and twenty ounces and have sent dad fifteen hundred dollars.  It's cost me about five hundred dollars to live and I've got six ounces in the yeast powder box under the big stone in front of the fire place.  Am worried about North.  I don't care for the fifty dollars, but it's singular that he doesn't show up or write.</p><P>AUGUST 11, 1850.</p><P>--Anderson moved his traps over to my cabin and we are living together.  It makes a lot of difference having a pard with you, somebody to talk and tell your troubles to, although he laughs at me, swears that I have no troubles and don't know what troubles are.  I have told him about the old folks and Hetty and about my plan to buy the Slocum farm, and he says: "Don't worry about the girl, she will wait for you fast enough as long as you are sending home money; and as for troubles, when you are married then you will begin to know something about them."  I asked him if he was married and he said "yes" and then shut up like a clam.  We have dug more than half the ditch and will finish it this week.  There are a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:couple of gray squirrels that frolic around in the big pine tree near the cabin.  I got the shotgun out, but Anderson said: "Why kill God's creatures?  Let them live their lives."  He's strange in some things.  He laid there half the afternoon, watching them scampering around the limbs or setting up on their hind legs eating pine nuts, and said there was more satisfaction in enjoying their antics than eating squirrel stew.</p><P>AUGUST 18, 1850.</p><P>--We finished the ditch on Thursday and turned in the water.  It carries a lot more than we need and when we ran it into the gulch, Anderson got a new idea.  We put a trench down through the middle of the ravine and there was a pretty heavy fall.  The top dirt is nothing but red clay and he began picking the dirt and watching it run off into the creek and then he said: "What is the use of shoveling this all off when the water will do it for us?"  Sure enough, it worked like a charm.  We pulled off our shoes, turned up our overalls, jumped into the trench and worked away like beavers, and the water did more work in one day than both of us could have stripped shoveling in a week.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">(NOTE.--Anderson had stumbled on another great step in mining, viz., ground sluicing, and without doubt was one of the first to adopt this method.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>By Saturday noon we had cleared off a strip forty feet long and ten feet wide, and will set the Long Tom to-morrow and clean it up.  It looks like pretty good ground, as we could pick up lots of pieces of gold, some of them weighing two bits.</p><P>The weather is awfully hot; believe it is warmer than summer in the States, but it don't bother us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:much to work when it's the hottest and I have not heard of anybody being sunstruck.  It's curious how quickly it cools off after sundown.  A breeze starts and blows up the creek strong enough to sway the tops of the pine trees, and the noise it makes through the branches sounds like a lullaby.  Since Pard came to camp with me, we spend an hour or two every evening after supper sitting out under a big sugar pine that grows just in front of our cabin, smoking our pipes, but we don't talk much.  It is all so solemn and still, that is, it seems so until you begin to hear what Pard calls "voices of the night"; the frogs, the owls, the rasp of the tree toad, or the howl of a wolf way off in the mountain, and if it was not for the glimmer of a light in Platt's cabin, down the creek, we would think we were two castaways lost in a wilderness.  I believe it is that sort of feeling that drives so many of the boys to drinking, or carousing around the saloons hunting excitement.</p><P>AUGUST 25, 1850.</p><P>--This last week was fine.  We set the Tom Monday morning, put a box at the head of it and were three days and a half washing out the ground, which was about two feet thick; cleaned up the bed-rock and we got sixty-three ounces.  We stripped off about thirty feet more by noon yesterday and will begin washing to-morrow.  Anderson insisted on my taking half.  I thought I ought to pay him something for the share in the claim.  He wouldn't listen; said we were partners and he was bound to see that I got that Slocum farm and Hetty, just to teach me that there was trouble in the world.  He gets letters from home, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:but they don't seem to give him much comfort.  He reads them, swears under his breath, tears them in bits and sulks for the rest of the day.  I sent a draft for five hundred dollars to the old folks last night.  That is two thousand dollars I've saved in less than six months.</p><P>A woman who kept a boarding house at Selby Flat was killed yesterday.  She got tangled in a lariat and was dragged to death by a mule.</p><P>We walked down to the Yuba River yesterday.  There are about 200 miners working on the bars and banks, and they are doing pretty well.  None of them have been able to get into the bed of the stream, as there is no way of turning the water.  Anderson says there is no use of trying it now, as the rains would come before we could get to work, but he believes there is gold by the bucketful if he could get it.  We bought about a hundred dollars worth of grub Saturday.  There is a little beast here they call a woodrat and he plays the devil with anything left exposed about the cabin.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 1, 1850.</p><P>--Washed up two days and sluiced top dirt the rest of the week.  The ground is still rich.  We got forty-one ounces.  That is as well as they are doing over on Brush Creek.</p><P>I bought a new suit of clothes yesterday, black broadcloth; two white shirts; a Peruvian hat and a pair of fine boots.  The hat cost sixteen dollars, the boots twenty-one dollars, and the whole outfit, with necktie and handkerchiefs, one hundred and five dollars.  I put them on this morning and went to town.  Pard said I looked like a sport.  It's so long since I wore decent clothes that I felt like a fool.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:I was told that the people living round Caldwell's store held a meeting and called the place "Nevada City."  Nevada is Spanish for snow.  The Frenchwoman is still dealing twenty-one.  I went in to see her and started to make a bet when she said: "You can't play at this game.  Gamblers are barred."  I stammered out that I wasn't a gambler, but she said: "You can't play that on me," and I quit.  She's got a voice like music and just her speaking to me in that way put me all in a flutter.  There are a few women in the town, mostly Mexicans.</p><P>There was a dog fight down on the bridge and a lot of money bet on it.  The losing dog was pretty badly chewed up, his forelegs bitten through and through, but he never whimpered.  His owner was disgusted and swore he would kill him.  I asked him what he would take for the dog, and I got him for two ounces.  He could not walk and I had to carry him.  My new boots hurt me like sin and by the time I got to the top of Sugar Loaf hill I had to take them off and walk over two miles in my stocking feet carrying my boots and the dog.  When I got to the cabin my new clothes were a sight, but Anderson never laughed.  He set to work washing the blood off the dog and binding up his legs.  When I told him the story he said I was a good fellow and that the look out of the dog's eyes and the way he licked my hand was worth more than I paid for him.</p><P>SEPTEMBER 8, 1850.</p><P>--We took out only thirty ounces this past week.  The gulch is getting narrow and there is a scant fifty feet more before we reach the ditch.  There is a flat of about half an acre <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<DIV> 
069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>A RATTLESNAKE ON THE TRAIL--CLAIM JUMPING AND A TRAGEDY--MINERS' COURTS AND THE ALCALDE--RAISING THE ANTI-DEBRIS QUESTION--THE FIRST SERMON AND A LIBERAL COLLECTION--A WELCOME STORM--PACK MULE LOAD OF COARSE GOLD--RIPARIAN RIGHTS--AN EXPENSIVE CHICKEN BROTH--BEGGING LETTER FROM NORTH.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>SEPTEMBER 15, 1850.</p><P>--Claim is nearly played out.  We cleaned up fifteen ounces last week and will work it out by Thursday.  Sent five hundred dollars more to dad yesterday and I have got about three hundred on hand.  I get the nicest kind of letters from dad.  Mother is better because she thinks I will soon make enough to satisfy me and come back.  Hetty says I ought to be there by Thanksgiving, but that is foolishness.  If I am there by the next one I will be satisfied.  I'm not so homesick since Anderson came to live with me.  He is better educated than I am, has been through college and has had more experience, but he doesn't put on any airs and we get along together like brothers, although he has his blue spells.  He never answers any letters that he gets, so far as I know, and those he receives are forwarded to him from San Francisco instead of coming here direct.  He never goes to town, nor spends a cent except for grub.  We killed a big rattlesnake on the trail to the claim Wednesday.  It was coiled up under a bush and struck at and hit me on the bootleg.  I jumped about ten feet and Anderson smashed its head with a stone.  He was white as a sheet and called me a darn fool for not looking where I was going.  I got mad and told him he need not worry about my not being able to take care of myself, then he put his arm around my neck and said he did not mean it; but I had come into his life and he did not want me to go out of it just yet.  He's a character.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>SEPTEMBER 22, 1850.</p><P>--We finished up the claim last week.  It about petered out.  We got only five ounces.  We are going to try the flat and if that don't pay we will go off prospecting.  There was a fight on the creek last week.  Donovan, an Irishman, jumped a claim, and when the rightful owner warned him off he drew an Allen's pepper box and shot Tracy, to whom the claim belonged, in the leg.  Tracy beat the Irishman over the head with a shovel and left him for dead, although he did not die until yesterday.  Tracy was taken over to town and tried before a fellow who sets himself up for an alcalde and was then turned loose, as it was a clear case of self-defense.  This is the first death on Rock Creek.  The miners are indignant over Tracy being taken to Nevada.  There is no more law there than on Rock Creek.  Some fellow claims to be a sort of judge, but he's got no legal authority and a miners' court is just as binding here as in town.  We held a meeting of all the miners along the creek, and Anderson made a speech.  Said it was an unwarranted usurpation and an invasion of our rights, and we resolved that we would not permit it to happen again.  We buried Donovan on the hill, and sold his tools and traps at auction, including his cabin, for $140.  Nobody <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:knows what to do with the money, as it is not known where he came from.  Anderson was made custodian of the proceeds in case any claimant should turn up.<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">(Note.--An Allen's pepper box was a pistol much in vogue in the early days, a singularly ineffective gun, more dangerous to the possessor than anyone else.  It got its name from its fancied resemblance to the old-fashioned pepper box.  It had six barrels which revolved, and was a most clumsy piece of mechanism, although thousands were sold in the East to the early gold-seekers.  A joke of the times was a standing reward for proof that any one had been hurt or wounded by its discharge.  In a trial of a miner for assault with a deadly weapon and intent to kill, held before a sapient justice of the peace in Mariposa in 1851, the prisoner was discharged, the justice ruling that an Allen's pepper box could not be considered as falling under the head of deadly or dangerous.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>--We have worked on the ditch all the week, making it twice as large.  The dirt on the flat is twenty feet deep and the more water we have the quicker we can sluice it off.  I haven't much faith in its paying, although the bank on the creek prospects pretty well.  I think Jack--that's our dog--is mighty ungrateful.  I bought him and lugged him to the cabin when he couldn't walk and now he has got no particular use for me, but he just worships Anderson.  Sleeps on the foot of his bunk nights, follows at his heels every minute of the day, or makes a bed of his coat alongside the claim; and if Anderson happens to get out of sight, howls and runs around like a crazy beast.  When I mentioned it to Anderson he looked serious and said: "Don't get jealous, old fellow; you've got the folks at home and Hetty--I've got nothing but Jack, and a dog's love is better than none," and he walked out with the dog at his heels wagging his stump of a tail.  I was completely upset.  Anderson sat out under the pine tree for an hour with the dog's head in his lap and then came in cheerful-like, slapped me on the back and said: "Don't mind me being grumpy, I've got you too; but white man is mighty uncertain."</p><P>OCTOBER 6, 1850.</p><P>--We turned the water into the ditch Monday and sluiced out the flat until Thursday.  That afternoon a deputation of miners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:from below us on the creek came to the claim and notified us that we must quit.  The mud we were sending down the stream buried them under slumgullion, and the water was so thick they could not use it in their rockers.  Anderson said that was reasonable and that we would hold up until we could think of some scheme to remedy it.</p><P>We have talked it over and I don't see how we can avoid it unless we wait until the creek below is all worked out.  The nights are cold and we have to keep up a fire in the fireplace.  Kellogg was over from Brush Creek to look at our ditch.  Says he is going to make a survey this week to bring the water into Brush Creek and if it is feasible he will give us four hundred dollars for the piece we have dug.  They say he has made a pile of money and has bought up a lot of claims on Selby Hill.<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">(NOTE.--This is the first record of the raising of the anti-debris question.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>OCTOBER 13, 1850.</p><P>--There has not been a drop of rain, nor has there been a cloud in the sky since May last; but it thickened up early in the week and Tuesday night when I awoke the rain was pattering on the roof--a regular old-fashioned storm.  Anderson woke up, too, and we got up and started a big fire and sat and listened to the gusts of wind blowing through the pine tree tops and sheets of water slapping up against the south side of the cabin.  The rain sounded good.  The whole country was dusty and dried up, and I felt as if I wanted to go out and stand bareheaded in the storm.  It rained all day Wednesday, and Anderson, who went up to the claim in the afternoon, came back <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:laughing and said he did not think the miners would bother us for a while on the slumgullion question.  There was four feet of water in Rock Creek and rocks rolling down it as big as a bushel basket.  It did not quit until Thursday afternoon.  It washed out the head of the ditch and we have not fixed it up yet.  Jack is in disgrace.  He ran down a skunk Friday and we just couldn't stand him in the cabin until Anderson used up all of our soap washing him.  He smells yet.  We haven't made a dollar for two weeks.</p><P>OCTOBER 20, 1850.</p><P>--We got the ditch repaired and the water turned on the flat by Thursday and have been running off the top dirt.  It's amazing the amount we move and it astonishes all our neighbors.  A lot of them are looking out for side hill diggings below us and will try the same process.  Anderson says it will be a good idea to extend our ditch and sell the water to the miners who might want to use it, but I don't see what right we have got to it more than anybody else.  Anyway, he has put a notice at the head of the ditch claiming all the water it will hold, and as there is no law in the case he says he will make a law out of the precedent.</p><P>Had a letter from Henry North from Sacramento.  Says he has been working there and has a great chance to make money if he had the capital.  Asks me to loan him a thousand dollars.  Anderson says to "go slow."  I'd do it for Hetty's sake, but he ought to have written before this.  A lot of miners have gone about forty miles north of here on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:another branch of the river where they say rich, coarse gold diggings have been discovered.  A pack mule load of gold was brought into town from there last week and there was one piece worth three thousand dollars, and lots from an ounce to twenty ounces.  Many of the miners think this is the discovery of the source of gold; that is, where it grows.  There is one fact that bears out this theory.  The higher the miners get up in the mountains, the coarser the gold.  Around Nevada County, so far as I know, it is seldom that a nugget is found that weighs over an ounce, while up on Kanaka Creek one has been found that weighed twenty-one pounds and several from five to fifteen pounds, and I am told that there is very little fine dust in those diggings. I hope they won't find the fountain head until I have turned my gold into some kind of property.<ANCHOR ID="n3-3">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-3">(NOTE.--The first claim to water rights on record in Nevada County.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>OCTOBER 27, 1850.</p><P>--We have had a great week.  There is a streak up through the middle of our flat that is lousy with gold.  We took out one hundred and eleven ounces and only worked a small portion of what we uncovered.  We had a meeting of the miners at our place yesterday afternoon to decide in regard to ditch and water rights, and it was a hot one.  Some of them claimed that water was as free as air and no one had a right to monopolize it, and they would have carried the day, but Anderson proposed as a compromise that all interested should pitch in and build a ditch on shares.  As there were only a dozen or so who had any use for the water outside of the creek bed, this was agreed to.  These are the ones who have taken up flat claims like ours and are anxious to prospect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:them.  We give our ditch to the company and have a one-sixth interest in the extension.  I don't see what good it will do, but Anderson says common consent makes law and the action will establish our rights.  Have had two good letters from home.  Mother wants me to return for Thanksgiving and I'd like to be there, but the chances to get rich are too good to leave now.  Dad writes that he has bargained for the Slocum Farm for four thousand dollars, and if I have another lucky week I will send him the balance.  Somehow I don't feel so eager to go back and live on it as I did three months ago.</p><P>NOVEMBER 3, 1850.</p><P>--Another fair week, although not so good as the previous one.  We are working the flat about forty feet wide and the sides do not pay as well as the middle streak, but we took out sixty-five ounces.  The miners have been driven out of the creek bed by too much water and a great many have left for other diggings.  There are two men cutting the extension to our ditch.  Spent the day in Nevada City, as they call it now.  There are over two thousand miners working in the vicinity of the town and most everybody doing well.  My little Frenchwoman has gone away.  I asked for her and they told me she was dealing over at Centerville.<ANCHOR ID="n3-4">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-4">(Note.--The Grass Valley of to-day was first named Centerville because it was midway between the two more important mining towns of Rough and Ready and Nevada City.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>There is no particular reason why I should be so much interested, although I was disappointed in not seeing her.</p><P>A minister preached in the United States Hotel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:dining room and the place was filled, but there were only three women in the crowd.  I was told he took up a collection and raked in four hundred dollars.  That is as good as mining and not as hard work.  Our minister in Norfolk would be satisfied with that much for a year.</p><P>NOVEMBER 10, 1850.</p><P>--Anderson was taken sick Thursday and has been out of his head for two days.  I got a doctor from town and he says he has a bilious fever and with good care he will come out all right.  I've got to like Anderson mighty well and I should feel bad if anything should happen to him.  His crazy talk in his delirium was mostly about his wife.  I guess they had a flare-up about her extravagance and other foolishness, and that's why he left and what makes him so grumpy about home matters.  Poor old Jack has been miserable, licking Anderson's hands and face and whining like a sick baby, and I had to tie him up.  The boys around have been very good, offering to set up nights and bringing in quail and squirrels for him, but he has not eaten a morsel.  Doctor says to make him some broth.  I've managed to get along, but I'm nearly dead for sleep.</p><P>Another begging letter from North.  I don't see what right he has to ask me for a thousand dollars and without any explanation as to what he wants it for.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>THE FOREST IN AUTUMN--A SLUICE ROBBER AND THE WHIPPING POST--NORTH AS A MONTE DEALER--AN ENCOUNTER WITH A HIGHWAYMAN--HIGH-PRICED HAY--ANOTHER MEETING WITH THE FRENCHWOMAN--MEXICANS DISCOVER A BIG BONANZA--AN EVICTION BY FORCE--RECOGNITION OF THE RIGHTS OF FOREIGN MINERS.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>NOVEMBER 17, 1850.</p><P>--Pard is all right again, thank the Lord, although not able to work yet.  I hired a man to rustle for some chickens and he found three after a two days' hunt.  He paid $24 for them and with his horse hire and time they cost me $50, but I don't begrudge it for I made chicken broth and Pard said it went right to the spot.  We have had another big storm.  It rained three days steady.  The grass is coming up, the hill sides are all green and it looks like spring instead of fall.  While it is mighty pretty, it isn't like autumn back in old Litchfield where the sumachs and the maples are all ablaze at this time of the year.  I worked in the claim alone for three days and cleaned up fourteen ounces.  After dividing with Anderson I have got over two thousand dollars on hand and will send it to dad next week.  Pard says I would do better to buy land in California, but that's foolishness.  The gold will all be dug out after a while, and after that I don't see what there is to stay in this country for.</p><P>NOVEMBER 24, 1850.</p><P>--We both worked this week and took out eighty-nine ounces.  When I think of how much money I am making it seems like a dream.  I used to work for a dollar a day in haying time, and our hired man on the farm gets twelve dollars a month and found.  The regular miners' wages here are eight dollars a day and very few men will hire out.  I sent the two thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:dollars to dad and told him to buy the farm for me, so whatever happens I will have that, but the more I think of it the less I feel like running it.  I don't suppose I could make more than five hundred dollars a year off of it at the best, and then have to work four times as hard as I do here, but then this is not going to last always.  We caught an Indian cleaning up our riffle box Saturday night.  When the miners found out about it they insisted on his being punished and it was decided to tie him up to a tree and give him fifty lashes on the bare back.  Nobody would volunteer to do the whipping, so we drew lots and Dick Stiles got the job.  He used a double half-inch rope, but the Indian after the first half-dozen strokes made such a howl that we let him go, although there was not a red mark on his back.</p><P>DECEMBER 1, 1850.</p><P>--Although there was nothing to show it, we observed Thursday as Thanksgiving, as that was the legal day in the States.  All we did was to lay off and eat quail stew and dried apple pie.  I thought a lot about the old folks and would like to have been home with them, and I guess I will be next year, although Slocum's farm doesn't seem to be as enticing as it was when I first started out to buy it.  Dad writes that Hetty blames me for not looking up her brother, who don't write any letters home.  I think she is unreasonable.  I didn't take any contract to look out for him and he is as old as I am.  Pard and I talked it over and he says why not take a holiday and a trip to Sacramento, and then I can decide what to do.  We worked four days and cleaned up forty-one ounces.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>DECEMBER 22, 1850.</p><P>--This is the first I have written in three weeks.  I've been to Sacramento.  Pard insisted on my going; said that after nursing him through his sickness I needed a rest, so I bought a mustang and saddle, paid sixty dollars for the horse and seventy-five for the saddle and bridle.  Sacramento is the liveliest place I ever saw.  There are over five thousand people living there, mostly in tents, and not more than a dozen wooden houses in the place.  Hundreds of people from San Francisco are coming up the river every day, and the bank is piled up with all sorts of goods and provisions for the mines.  About every tent is a gambling house and it made my head swim to see the money flying around.  I had a big job hunting up North and then only found him by accident.  I was almost sorry that I came across him, for I discovered that he had turned sport and was dealing "monte."  He pretended to be very glad to see me and then let out that what he wanted the money for was to start a game of his own, sure that he could win a fortune.  Gracious, what would Hetty and his folks say if they knew he had become a gambler.  He got very chilly when I wouldn't let him have the dust, but made me promise that I would not write anything home about it.  He is living with a Mexican girl and I don't think they are married.</p><P>I thought a lot about Pard while I was away.  We were strangers a few months ago, and now I couldn't love an own brother any better.  He was just as glad to see me as I was to see him, and Jack pretended he was overjoyed.  The old dog is so fat he can hardly toddle and with Pard petting him he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:certainly has a good time.  Pard took out of the claim one hundred and twenty-two ounces while I was gone and insists on sharing it, and I could not argue him out of it.  He is mighty set when he wants to be.</p><P>Jim McCord, who lives about half a mile down the creek, was held up by robbers on the divide about a week ago while on his way back from town.  He showed fight and one of the highwaymen shot him in the knee, shattering the bone.  Dr. Hunt has been attending him and says mortification has set in and his leg will have to be cut off.  That's pretty rough on Jim.</p><P>The widow who married the young fellow at Selby Flat has shook him and come back to the Flat again.  She says he was "no account," but the boys think he was glad to get rid of her.</p><P>DECEMBER 29, 1850.</p><P>--We decided to keep the horse, as it would be handy to ride to town and over the country.  Green feed is plenty, but no oats or grain to be had for love or money.  We had to have some feed in case of snow, so Christmas day I rode down to Centerville and found a man who had cut some wild oats in a valley below that town.  He wanted two hundred and fifty dollars a ton and fifty dollars more for delivering it on Rock Creek, and I bought it at that figure.  That would cause dad to hold up his hands, but then they don't make thirty dollars a day on an average in old Connecticut.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">(Jackson's figures are verified on the authority of one Johnson, who, in 1851, sold ten tons of hay, which he had cut on a tract of land he had settled on in Penn Valley, at two hundred and fifty dollars a ton, delivered at Rough and Ready, a distance of four miles.)</NOTE>
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069.sgm:<P>While at Centerville I hunted up the pretty Frenchwoman.  She knew me and asked where I had been and what game I was running.  I could hardly make her believe that I was a miner and not a sport.  Her pretty French accent was very fascinating.  She says she is coming back to Nevada in a little while and then she will ride over to the claim some day.  I don't believe she will, but if she does it will cause a sensation on the creek.</p><P>The doctor cut off McCord's leg the day before Christmas and he died the next day.  We buried him on the hill along side of Donovan.  He had one thousand two hundred dollars in dust, which we sent to his wife, who lives in New York City.  It was pitiful to hear him mourn about her and his children before he died.</p><P>Only worked three days this week and took out fifteen ounces and a half.  Our claim is as rich as those over on Brush Creek, and that ground has been considered the best of any around this section.  There are lots of miners tramping over the country from one locality to another and we hear stories of the big yield of gold everywhere in the foothills.  I have talked with men from Mariposa and Tuolumne Counties who claim to have left ounce diggings because they had heard of better places North.  It is strange what a restless, discontented lot of gold seekers roam around from one county to another.  They can't make money fast enough at an ounce a day, but are prospecting for some spot where they can take out a bushel or more of gold in a week, and as there have been plenty of such strikes made it keeps them excited and continually on the tramp.  I was chatting yesterday with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:miner from Mariposa County and he was telling me of the discovery at a camp called Bear Valley that had set the country wild.  It seems there are a lot more Mexicans in that part of the State than here and they do a good deal of mining.  It was noticed that for a couple of weeks the "greasers" had been very flush, selling lots of dust at the store and playing "monte" for high stakes.  Some of the miners put a watch on them and found them panning on a flat about a mile from the town, and they soon found out that the Mexicans had struck the biggest kind of a deposit.  It made them mad to think that a lot of "greasers" were getting the benefit of it, so they organized a company and drove them away by threats and force and then worked the ground themselves.  Out of a space forty feet square they took out two hundred and ten thousand dollars and that was the end of it; just a big pocket of gold mixed in the rocks, specimen gold he said, that is, jagged and rough and not rolled and waterworn as the dust is in the creeks and ravines.  It was an outrage on the Mexicans, but the jumpers justified their action on the ground that California had been ceded to the United States, and that white men had superior rights to the mines.  Anyway, they got away with the gold.</p><P>JANUARY 5, 1851.</p><P>--Another year and I have been away from the States twelve months.  I was desperately homesick for a while, but since Anderson and me became partners I am fairly well reconciled, although at times I long to see the old folks.  I have not done so badly, for I have sent father four thousand five hundred dollars, have about a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:thousand dollars on hand and we have been offered and refused ten thousand dollars for the claim.  We will probably work it out in three or four months and then hunt another one.  Pard still wants to go to river mining, and maybe we will.  We had another big week working up the center of the claim and cleaned up ninety-seven ounces.  If it only holds out I will soon be a rich man.  Our neighbors have finished the ditch and it is over a mile long.  We share the water, each using it for one day, and as it carries twice as much water as when we first dug it, there is enough to sluice off top dirt and keep us five days cleaning up the gravel and bedrock.  Kellogg, of Brush Creek, has started to cut a ditch taking the water out of the creek a mile above us, but we have notified him that he must not interfere with the amount we want in our ditch.  We do not propose to allow the water to be taken to another creek to our injury.</p><P>JANUARY 12, 1851.</p><P>--It's been raining all the week and the creeks are running bank-full.  Over on Deer Creek it drove all the miners out and filled their claims with rock and gravel.  They have struck the richest kind of diggings up on Nigger Hill above Nevada, in deep ground, and they have to coyote to get the dirt.  They say that they are making a hundred dollars a day to the man.  A dozen Frenchmen own one of the richest of the claims, and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:party of roughs drove them out and jumped the ground on the pretext that the Frenchmen were not American citizens and could not legally hold mining claims.  There was a big excitement and a miners' meeting called, which decided that the Frenchmen's titles were as good as anybody else's and so the foreigners got the ground again, which shows that we have more regard for other people's rights than the Mariposa miners.  We got our hay over last week, but the fellow swore he would not deliver another ton for five hundred dollars.  I don't blame him, as there was no road farther than Selby Flat, but we cut away the brush and helped him to get through.  Selby Flat is getting to be quite a place.  Three families, who came across the plains from Missouri and Illinois, have settled there in the last month.  One of the "Pikes" has two daughters, so that there are now seven women on the flat and they talk about giving a dance there next week.<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">(Note.--"Coyoting" was a local descriptive term of a mining method which meant the sinking of shafts, and running small drifts from the bottom in the bedrock in all directions until the excavated banks became dangerous, when the shaft would be abandoned and another sunk close by.  It was dangerous work and many a miner lost his life by caving banks.  It was the direct precursor of regular drift mining, when the tunnels were systematically timbered.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>We had a poor week on the claim.  Only took out eleven ounces.  The pay seems to be in a streak about four feet wide up the center; still, eleven ounces is not so bad after all.  I get the nicest letters from home; think I may go back in the spring.  I sent dad a thousand dollars for himself and told him I did not want him nor mother to work hard any more.  Wrote him to get a hired girl for her and if he bought the Slocum farm to just lay back and boss the two.  We can stand hired men at twelve dollars a month.  Some of the claims down below us are doing very well, but none are paying as much as ours.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>WEATHER CONTRASTS--ANTICIPATING THE EXHAUSTION OF THE PLACERS--A LIVELY DANCE AT SELBY FLAT--THE FIGHT BETWEEN THE JACKASS AND THE FEROCIOUS BEAR--DECAMPING SHOWMEN--THE TOWN CELEBRATES THE EVENT--A FOOTHILL DITTY--THE MURDER OF HENRY NORTH--FOLLOWING THE CHANNELS UNDER THE MOUNTAIN--THE GROWTH OF NEVADA CITY.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>JANUARY 19, 1851.</p><P>--Have not written much about Pard lately, but he is a great comfort.  He is a different man than when we joined fortunes, doesn't sulk and get moods as he did at first, and I notice he doesn't tear up his letters any more.  He says it is all on account of our dog Jack who came along just at the right time, but that is all nonsense, although it is wonderful how much they think of each other.  The rain is over, the nights are cold and frosty, but the grass is growing and wild flowers are blooming.  When I think of the old Norfolk place, which at this time of the year is buried under big snowdrifts, I don't feel as if I cared to leave this country.  It seems a pity that when it is all worked out there will be nothing to stay for.  Pard has a different opinion.  He predicts that they will grow wheat and fruit in the valleys and California will be a rich and big State, and he tells me that he is thinking of investing five thousand dollars in real estate at the Bay.  The claim paid eighteen ounces this last week.</p><P>JANUARY 26, 1851.</p><P>--There was a lively time over at Selby Flat Wednesday night.  The landlord gave a ball at the hotel.  All the women were there--seven of them--and about two hundred men.  They had a fiddler--Mart Simonson; one of the best I ever heard.  It was great sport for a while, but towards morning some of the men got too much gin aboard and a quarrel started about the right <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:to dance with one of the Missouri girls.  Pistols were drawn, the lights put out, at least a hundred shots fired; but, funny enough, only one man was hurt--Sam Creeley, who was hit in the leg.  I went out through a window and did not wait to see the finish.  It was too exciting for me.</p><P>Had a long letter from dad.  He has bought the Slocum farm in my name, but now it's mine I would not go back and work on it as I did on the old place under any circumstances.  I couldn't content myself.  Pard laughs at me and says how about that little song I used to sing:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A little farm, a little wife,<LB>A dozen babies, a happy life."<LB></HI>
069.sgm:</p><P>A foot of snow fell last week, but it soon melted off.  Claim still paying well.</p><P>FEBRUARY 2, 1851.</p><P>--The town went clean crazy this afternoon.  I would not have believed that white men could have made such fools of themselves if I had-not been there.  When I was over in Nevada yesterday I saw on the front of Cald-well's store a big poster which said there was going to be a grand fight between a ferocious grizzly bear and the champion fighting jackass of the State, the scrap to take place Sunday afternoon in a valley just beyond the ridge on the trail to Centerville (Grass Valley).  The bill claimed that the jack had whipped two bulls and killed a mountain lion in previous fights at Sonora, and was expected to be a fair match for the grizzly.  Most everybody thought it was a sell, but we found out that a ring had been built and preparations made for the fight.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:I was curious to see it and rode down to the valley in the afternoon along with about all the rest of the population.</p><P>Sure enough, there was a stockade about forty feet in diameter, made of split pine stakes driven in the ground and bound together around the top with strips of rawhide.  It looked pretty weak to hold a big grizzly, but one of the showmen said the jack would keep the bear too busy for him to think of breaking away, so we concluded to chance it.  A large cage held the beast, a trap door opening into the ring, and we could hear the bear growling, although the chinks were stopped up so that nobody could see the prisoner.  The fighting jackass was hitched to one of the stakes and for looks he didn't show to whip a sick pup, let alone a fierce grizzly; but the boss was willing to take odds in his favor, although no one wanted any bets on the game.  A rope about two hundred feet from the ring stretched around the stockade.  It cost a dollar to get inside, and as at least two thousand rustled for logs and stumps to stand on and paid the money it was a pretty profitable speculation.  After waiting an hour or more the crowd grew impatient and yelled for the show to begin, but the boss would not start it until a lot of outsiders, who had climbed trees and were trying to see the fight free had put up the same price as the rest of us, and, as we all thought that was fair, they had to pungle.</p><P>The jackass was turned loose and started in nibbling grass as if he were not particularly concerned in the proceedings.  Then, after a lot of fiddling around, two men pried open the trap door, and we all held our breaths, expecting to see a grand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:rush of a ferocious beast and a dead burro.  The bear wouldn't come out until they poked him with a pole, and when he finally waddled into the enclosure there was a roar from the crowd that made the woods ring.  Instead of a fierce, blood-thirsty grizzly it was only a scared little cinnamon bear that didn't weigh over four hundred or five hundred pounds.  He sat on his haunches for a minute, frightened almost to death by the noise and the crowd, and then walked in a friendly way toward his opponent.  The donkey wasn't making friends and when the bear got close enough the jackass whirled and gave him a couple of thundering kicks in the ribs, and then went on eating grass as if bears were nothing to him.  The bear picked himself up, made a break for the fence, went over it in two jumps and started for the chapparal.</p><P>The crowd scattered in every direction, except a few who banged away at the beast with revolvers, but it got safely into the brush and that was the last seen of Mr. Bear.  Everybody began yelling to hang the showmen, but in the excitement they had taken to their horses, lit out of the country and there was nothing left but the jackass.  A procession was formed, the animal in the lead, and we all tramped back to town, shouting, singing and banging away with pistols.  When we reached Cald-well's store the place went mad.  The crowd would drive the burro into a saloon, insist on pledging him for drinks, then redeem him by taking up a collection for the bill, and repeat at the next saloon.  The town was in for a grand drunk, but I soon got tired of it and rode home.  I told Pard about it and he remarked that as we could not make the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:jackass drink he was the only sensible one in the outfit.  It was a pretty good trick and the fellows cleaned up at least two thousand dollars and got away with it.  I noted one queer thing and that was the song in which everybody joined.  A half dozen would sing the verse:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"There was an old woman had three sons,<LB>Joshua, James and John.<LB>Josh was hung, James was drowned,<LB>And John was lost and never was found.<LB>And that was the end of the three sons,<LB>Joshua, James and John."<LB></HI>
069.sgm:</p><P>Then the crowd shouted out the chorus, which was:</p><P>"John I.  Sherwood, he's a going home."</p><P>Nobody seemed to know who Sherwood was, or why he was going home.  Pard says he heard the same song and chorus over at Hangtown and Spanish Dry Diggings before he came here.</p><P>Prices of all sorts of grub are down one-half of what they were six months ago and everything is getting pretty reasonable.  Flour is only eight dollars a sack, pork and bacon twenty-five cents a pound, and tobacco retails at fifty cents a plug.</p><P>The claim is still holding out well; we have taken out one hundred and twenty-one ounces in two weeks.  It is the best anywhere around Rock Creek, but our ditch partners are doing pretty well.  I hope to clean up about ten thousand dollars beside what I have sent home; then I shall be pretty well fixed.</p><P>FEBRUARY 9, 1851.</p><P>--I have had a shock this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:week that has made me feel bad.  Wednesday the expressman brought me a letter and a package from Sacramento, addressed to me.  The letter was signed Brant Phillips and said that Henry North had been stabbed and killed in a gambling house last Tuesday night in a row with a Mexican.  He lived only a few hours after being stabbed, and had asked that I should be written to as I knew his folks.  The Mexican has escaped and they had buried North outside the town.  There were no letters or papers and he had no money or property except the ivory-handled pistol which Phillips sent along in a package with the letter.  It makes me feel grieved and conscience smitten, as it seems as if I ought to have persuaded him to come here.  Pard says I am not to blame, that he was just one of the weak kind that was bound to go wrong and I could not have influenced him any different if I had had the chance.  After talking it over we agreed it was best not to write the truth, as it would do no good and make his folks feel worse, so I wrote father that a bank caved on North at Mormon Bar, where he was mining, and to tell his people that the accident caused his death.  It would be an awful disgrace in their eyes if the real facts should come out; but I don't see how they can, as nobody knows anything about North except myself.</p><P>The claim is still paying well; and to think that Henry might have been alive and sharing in it if he hadn't been so foolish!  I want to write to Hetty, but don't feel capable of telling her a string of lies.</p><P>FEBRUARY 16, 1851.</p><P>--Strong and his two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:partners made a big strike last week.  They are working in the creek bank a quarter of a mile below us and it leaked out that they took out over three thousand dollars in six days.  Nobody begrudges them their luck for they are good fellows.  The news has brought a lot of miners to the creek, prospecting along the banks, but no more discoveries have been made.</p><P>I was over on Selby Flat yesterday afternoon and found that while the bed of Brush Creek is about worked out the lead seems to run into the hill.  Several companies are following it, sinking shafts and running drifts, and all getting good returns.  Kellogg has taken out over twenty thousand dollars and several others are doing as well.  They have got the same kind of diggings on the other side of Sugar Loaf and there is no telling how much gold there is in this country if the channels run into the hills.  Pard says we had better follow our streak up past the ditch, as it may develop the same as the Brush Creek leads.</p><P>I got a long letter from home and dad says he thinks I ought to be satisfied with what I have made and come home to comfort mother and him.  It does not seem as if this was the right sort of a life for a man--no women, no church, nothing of what there was in Norfolk, but then there is a lot in this country that Norfolk hasn't got.  One isn't so cramped and it seems as if there was more room to turn around in.  I used to think Squire Battell was the richest man in the world, and he ain't worth more than thirty thousand dollars.  If I can go back with that much I would not mind; but I never could settle down again to farm work.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>FEBRUARY 23, 1851.</p><P>--It's been no such winter as '49 and '50.  About a quarter as much rain and only a foot of snow, which melted nearly as fast as it fell.  The nights are frosty, but the middle of the day is warm and the grass is up six inches.  Nevada is getting to be quite a town.  There are more than one hundred frame buildings beside a lot of tents and log cabins and they are talking about building a theater.  There is another town down the ridge, called Rough and Ready and it's as lively as Nevada.  They hung a nigger there last week for stealing.  It's a queer thing how well we get along without any courts or law.  Over in Nevada the miners have elected an alcalde, but his decisions are not binding, only as they are accepted by the people.  Most of the cases are mining disputes and a miners' jury decides these.  Stealing is punished by a whipping and banishment.  Outside of a few cutting and shooting scrapes among the gamblers there have been no serious crimes, and it is a fact that we are more orderly and better behaved as a rule than the eastern towns from which we came.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>A REAL ESTATE SPECULATION--ENCOUNTER WITH A ROAD AGENT--DISCOVERY OF RICH QUARTZ VEINS AT GRASS VALLEY--A VALUABLE SPECIMEN--MADAME FERRAND VISITS ROCK CREEK--RICH DIGGINGS ON THE NORTH YUBA--GENEROSITY OF THE PIONEERS--THE TWENTY-ONE DEALER'S FORTUNE.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>MARCH 2, 1851.</p><P>--In the last month we have taken a little over four thousand dollars out of the claim and it will take us considerable longer to work it out than we expected, as the flat seems to pay pretty well all over.  I have got over two thousand dollars on hand beside what I have sent home, so that I have made more than my mark; still I am not going to quit as long as it pays as it does now.  Pard tells me that with what he had before we joined fortunes and what he has made since, he has over ten thousand dollars.  He has not sold any of his dust, but has it buried, nobody knows where but himself.  He thinks it is too much money to lie idle and has made up his mind to invest it in San Francisco lots.  He wants me to join him in the speculation and argues that some day it will be a big city.  I haven't got much faith in it and neither has anybody else to whom I have talked about it; but as I owe to him the most of my good luck I did not feel like refusing, so agreed to put in what I have saved.  He says we will make a trip to the Bay in a month or so from now and look over the ground together.  One thing is certain.  We are all fooled in the quantity of gold there is in this country.  We thought a year ago that the rivers, creeks and gulches contained it all, although somewhere there would be found the source of it; an immense deposit of pure gold from which all the dust and nuggets were broken off and washed down the streams.  Several parties have hunted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:for this, but they haven't come across it yet.  We do find that the gold streaks run into the banks and under the hills and, in some places, as at Rough and Ready, on the tops of the ridges, and instead of being played out there are more and richer diggings discovered every day.  I would not be surprised if it took three or four years before it will all be worked out.</p><P>MARCH 9, 1851.</p><P>--Rode over into Nevada this morning and loafed around all day.  Took dinner at the Hotel de Paris and who should I meet there but my little French girl.  She recognized me and apologized for calling me a gambler.  Said she had made a lot of money dealing Twenty-One, most of which she had saved and sent back to France; but she was tired of the life and thought she would quit soon and go back to her own country.  She asked me a lot about myself, where I was working, and said if I didn't mind she would ride out and see me some day during the week.  Of course I replied "Come along"; but I have said very little to Pard about her and I guess he will be surprised if she should come.  Still, I don't think there is a chance of her making the trip.  This is about as pleasant a day as I have passed since I have been in California.  Had quite an adventure on my way home.  It was after dark, although the moon was shining, and as I struck into the trail beyond Selby Flat some fellow grabbed the bridle and ordered me to get off the horse.  My foot at his side had slipped out of the stirrup.  Without thinking I gave him a kick in the head which made him let go.  Then I jabbed my heels into the horse and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:started off at a gallop, but I hadn't gone forty feet away when he turned loose his gun.  Luckily he didn't hit me and I was soon out of shooting distance.  Pard called me a fool for taking such chances and I guess I was, but I got off all right anyway.</p><P>The town is all excitement over the discovery of good inside rocks.  Over in Grass Valley (Centerville it seems had been discarded) they found veins of a white stone which we call quartz and some of it has great masses and leaves of gold mixed in.  It is the same sort of rock that most of the pebbles in our gravel is made of and we have found in our claims several of these pebbles that had gold in them.  We thougt they were curious and had no idea that there were solid streaks of it.  I saw one piece in Hamlet Davis' store to-day that had been brought up from Grass Valley.  It was as big as my head and all covered over with gold.  Davis said there was as much as five hundred dollars in it.  There was a big crowd looking at it, discussing its origin, and a great many were of the opinion that this was the source of the gold we had been looking for.  Others agreed that if there was much more like it there would be so much gold taken out that it would get to be cheaper than iron.</p><P>MARCH 16, 1851.</p><P>--Sure enough, Madame Ferrand--that's her name--came over to Rock Creek Thursday.  We were eating dinner and when I went out and helped her off her horse Pard came near falling off his chair.  I introduced her and she began laughing and said her ride had given her an appetite and would we please invite her to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:dinner.  Of course we asked her to eat; it was mighty poor grub: tea, beans, bread and dried apple sauce, but she seemed to like it.  She talks fairly good English; but imagine my surprise when Anderson began to jabber away in French to her.  I was out of the running and was a little provoked, especially as it was the first I knew that Pard could speak any foreign lingo.  She wanted to see us working, so we took her up to the claim and showed her how to pan out dirt.  Pard saw to it that she had a rich pan, and with our help she washed out half an ounce.  Then she sat on the bank chatting until pretty near sundown, when we went back to the cabin and had supper.  She wasn't very complimentary about our shanty.  Said she would come over some day and tidy it up, and Pard whispered to me: "The Lord forbid."  I saddled up the horse and rode to town with her.  So far as I know she is the first woman that has ever been on Rock Creek.  She told me that she had come to California with her husband in '49; that he learned her how to deal Twenty-One.  After making a lot of money in San Francisco they went to Sacramento, where he was taken sick and died of cholera.  Then she came to Nevada with some Frenchmen and won a lot more money here, but she had got sick of it and refused to deal any more.  She had an eighth interest in the French claim at Coyoteville and as soon as she sold that out was going back to France, as with what she and her husband had made she had money enough to live on the rest of her life.  I got back to the cabin about ten o'clock.  Pard was asleep and Jack didn't make any fuss, so I slipped into bed without waking him up.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>MARCH 23, 1851.</p><P>--I have had to stand a lot of joshing from Pard over the Madame's visit, especially as she has made two more trips out here since last Sunday.  Of course, I told him she was only a passing acquaintance and he laughed and said: "She is a fascinating little devil, and if she wants you she will land you sure."  That is all nonsense.  It is pleasant to talk to a pretty woman, particularly if she is decent.  So far as I can learn, nobody has a word to say against her except her gambling, but she is no more to me than I am to her and that is nothing.</p><P>It looks as if our flat is going to turn out to be a much bigger claim than we expected.  The gravel, which is from two to four feet deep, pays pretty well and there are rich streaks on the bed-rock that pan out big.  If it holds out we will have at least four months' more work.  We average about forty ounces a week, and at that rate ought to take out eleven or twelve thousand dollars more.</p><P>If we do I will be about fourteen thousand dollars ahead for a little over a year's work.  That is more than most of the miners are making, but there are lots of richer diggings.  Brush Creek has paid a hundred dollars a day to the man and on Coyote Hill they have taken out as high as two and three thousand dollars a day.  A couple of miners came down from the North Fork of the Yuba and brought forty-three thousand dollars with them--a pack mule load.  They took it from a bar called Good-year in less than two months' work.  They say there are a lot more claims just as rich.  There has been quite a stampede of miners from here.  It's a curious thing that our gold is mostly fine, very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:few nuggets, and the gold from there is coarse.  They say there was one piece found which was worth six thousand dollars.  As near as we could make out the new diggings are about fifty miles north and farther up in the mountains.  There is still a lot of excitement about quartz, although it has simmered down some.  A general search has been made for these veins and many found, but, contrary to expectation, the majority have no gold in them or so little that the stone is not worth pounding up.</p><P>MARCH 30, 1851.</p><P>--It is astonishing how many people are coming to California.  The hills are crowded with miners and prospectors and we hear good reports everywhere.  Dozens pass by our cabin every day, bound for the streams farther up the mountains, and as many more on their way back.  It don't seem possible, but it is strange the number of hard luck stories one hears, for there are many who are disgusted with the country and are tramping their way back to San Francisco.  There was a big fire in Nevada last week and all of the principal stores, hotels and houses were burned down.</p><P>We have had a sad case on the creek.  Allen Talbot, who is little more than a boy, has been ailing all winter and has been struck with paralysis.  He is completely helpless and the doctor says the only chance he has is to go to a hospital.  He had no money, so we raised a subscription.  Pard and I gave a hundred dollars and altogether we raised seven hundred and fifty dollars.  The lad was taken away yesterday and it is a question if he ever recovers.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>As a rule, considering the exposure and hardships, the most of us are in the best of health.  It's a queer sort of life we lead; back-breaking work all day; doing our own cooking and washing; no amusements, except a friendly game of euchre and an occasional trip to town.  There is nothing there worth while, except the gambling saloons and the Mexican girls at the fandango house.  We long for the company of decent women, and while there are a few scattered around and more coming, still the miners do not get much chance to associate with them.  I am looked upon as particularly favored, because Madame Ferrand rides out to the claim to see me, and it is a pleasure to be with her, but that will all end shortly.  Pard and I are going to the Bay next week and she is going along, and will leave for France shortly after.  She sold her share in the French claim for seven thousand dollars and tells me she has got about forty thousand dollars put away.  That is a pretty good stake for a woman.  I have learned quite a lot of French and can talk a little to her in her own language.</p><P>Sam Carter was bitten by a rattlesnake last week over on Round Mountain.  He was out hunting and set down on a log and the snake struck him in the leg.  He cut out the bite with his knife, rushed to town and the doctor brought him through all right, but it was a narrow squeak.</p><P>Kellogg has finished his ditch to Brush Creek.  It is about three miles long.  He has agreed not to interfere with us, but there is plenty of water for everybody.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>A TRIP TO SAN FRANCISCO--SPECULATING IN SANDHILL LOTS--HIGH LIVING--HETTY BREAKS THE ENGAGEMENT--BACK ON THE CLAIM--NEVADA COUNTY ORGANIZED--DRAWING MONEY FROM A GRAVEL BANK--MORE GOLD DISCOVERIES--THE RESCUE OF A PARTY OF UNFORTUNATE IMMIGRANTS--THE "LOST GRAVE."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>APRIL 6, 1851.</p><P>--Pard, the Madame and I are off for the Bay to-morrow.  It was a question what we would do with our claim, as under mining law a day's work must be done every week to hold it.  Finally Tom Gleason and Jack Fisk agreed to strip top dirt for us once a week, we to pay them an ounce apiece a day for their work.  They are good friends of ours and will keep the jumpers off.  Pard is the leader and the most popular man on the creek and we are not afraid of any of our neighbors, but some outsiders might take a notion to the ground.  We live up to our home-made law strictly and it is understood that unless the specified amount of work is done the claim is open to location, even when the tools have been left in it.  We have had one case on the creek of a young fellow from Maine, who has been laid up with the rheumatism pretty nearly all winter.  He had a good claim and in order to hold it for him the boys have taken turns working it for him, putting in one day a week.  We have taken out nearly enough to pay for his grub and now he is back working it himself and doing well.</p><P>Pard dug up his dust; it was under the chimney back of the cabin. I gave him two thousand five hundred dollars to go along with it and he has sent it down to the Bay by Freeman &amp; Company's express.  He says it will almost break his heart to part with "Jack," but Gleason has promised to take good care of both the dog and the horse.  We have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:engaged seats and paid passage in Bower's stage to Sacramento and will take boat from there down.</p><P>APRIL 27, 1851.</p><P>--Back after a three weeks' trip.  We have had a great time and it has been a holiday that both Pard and I have enjoyed.  It was like getting back into civilization again, although San Francisco is not the same sort of place as most eastern cities.  There is a rush of people going and coming, men from the mines with their pile and men from the States on their way to make it.  We lived high while we were there; our meals averaged about two dollars each, but we did not begrudge it after a year's steady diet of pork and beans.  The gambling houses were a sight and it was good for sore eyes to see so many well dressed and good looking women.  Pard made his investment, buying about twenty fifty-vara lots about half a mile out on the Mission road and six over on North Beach.  The madame insisted on putting in some money and took eight fifty-varas at four thousand dollars.  I never had less faith in an investment.  Our land is nothing but a pile of white sand and, while there is some chance for North Beach to grow, the city will never get out to our Mission lots in a hundred years.</p><P>The neighbors were all glad to see us back and Jack went wild.  I don't know which was the happiest--Pard or the dog.  Nobody had bothered our claims; Gleason and Fisk had kept their contract and we will begin work again to-morrow.</p><P>MAY 4, 1851.</p><P>--Am not in the best of spirits.  Things happened at the Bay that I did not tell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Pard about and I have got a couple of letters from home that are not pleasant.  Father writes that mother's health is failing and advises me to quit and come home.  Believes my being there would do her more good than any medicine.  If I thought it was anything serious I would go, but while I am doing so well here it does not seem right to drop the chance to make a fortune.  Anyway, I will wait until I get another letter.  Henry North's death has been a great shock to his folks, but it would be worse if they knew the truth.  Hetty wrote me the meanest kind of a letter, blaming me for not looking out for her brother, while it was a fact that I never knew where he was until I hunted him up in Sacramento.  His murderer has not been captured.  I guess nobody tried very hard, as it was a gambling row anyhow.  Hetty throws me over, says she can't trust her happiness to me.  That's like a woman, but I don't know but it's for the best and I am not taking her decision very much to heart.</p><P>After three weeks' rest mining comes hard for a time, but we are both getting used to it again.  We cleaned up the ground that Gleason and Fisk had sluiced off and took out fifty-four and one-half ounces.  That more than pays our expenses for the trip.</p><P>MAY 11, 1851.</p><P>--Nevada is all built up again since the fire; better and more substantial than it was before.  They have also built a Methodist Church on the hill west of the town and have a regular preacher.  It was pleasant to notice eight or ten women in the congregation.  The Legislature made a new county and called it Nevada, and an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:election was held while we were gone to the Bay.  Caswell was elected judge and Johnny Gallagher sheriff, so that now we have a regular law outfit.  Gallagher has appointed Anderson deputy for Rock Creek district and we have a peace officer here with legal authority.  If we get along as peacefully as for the past year, Pard won't be very busy.</p><P>Showed Pard Hetty's letter and he said, "Give her time; she don't mean it."  He seemed to think I was not worried over it, which is true.  I have got nothing to blame myself for and why should I let her play see-saw with me.  I answered her letter and told her she was the best judge, and, although she had been very unjust, it was for her to decide.  Pard don't know how matters stand between me and my French sweetheart.  I have not told him that she wanted me to marry and go back to France with her and I was almost persuaded to do it, and that she finally decided to make a visit to her home and come back in the fall and then we should come to some agreement.  I believe I would have made the jump had it not been for fear of what my folks would say and now I am half sorry that I did not go.  She wrote me just before she left on the steamer, but it is in French and I can't read a word of it and am ashamed to ask Pard to translate it.</p><P>MAY 18, 1851.</p><P>--We put in a steady week's work and got forty-one and three-quarters ounces.  It's like drawing money out of a bank and we have three months more ahead of us if it all pays.  The bedrock is nearly level, but rises up on both sides of the flat and there is no gravel on the hill.  The water has gone down in Deer Creek and the miners are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:getting back into the bed, but it was pretty well worked out last year and isn't paying very well.  The best diggings are up on Nigger Hill and Manzanita Flat and there is another place called Gold Run and a flat at the head of it that is rich.  Amos Laird &amp; Co. have most of the flat and I heard that for the past month they have been taking out on an average of one thousand dollars per day.  There are three or four companies on the head of Brush Creek that are doing well.  They are working ground that is from thirty to fifty feet deep, coyoting and drifting.  Kellogg is blasting out a rock cut fifteen or twenty feet through the solid granite to drain the channel.  He and his partner have taken out over seventy thousand dollars in the past year.  Good diggings have also been found on Shady Creek and Badger Hill and there are four or five hundred miners working in that vicinity.  It seems as if there was no end to it; we hear of strikes every day and in every direction and we are sometimes tempted to go prospecting, but our claim is too good to quit just yet.  The miners generally agree that one should be content with ounce diggings.</p><P>Early in the week a miner came down from Sailor Ravine and told us that up on the ridge where the emigrant road comes through the mountains a party was camped and were in distress and that he was going into town to get relief for them.  Pard, who is always first when aid for the sick or sore is wanted, volunteered to go with him and hurry along the supplies and suggested that I should take the horse, ride up where they were and hearten them up a bit by letting them know that a relief party was coming.  I found them camped about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:eight miles up the ridge and they were certainly in a bad fix.  There were three families, men and their wives and five children, one baby not a month old that had been born on the Humboldt desert.  The mother was nothing but skin and bone, a young woman, and she could scarcely walk she was so weak and worn out.  It was pitiful to see her cling to and try to nurse the baby, so forlorn that the sight would have melted a heart of stone.  The rest of them did not look much better and one, a young girl fourteen years old, was sick to the point of death.  They had four yoke of oxen, who were walking skeletons, and, to look at them, it was a miracle that they had succeeded in crossing the mountains, as they were in deep snow all the way until they reached their last camping ground, where they had got out of it and in a place where there was some grass feed for their cattle.  Their grub had given out and they did not have enough provisions on hand for another meal.  It was one of the saddest plights I ever saw, but I cheered them up and told them they need not worry any more as there would be plenty for them all before sundown.  Sure enough, Pard, Lawyer Dunn and Tom Buckner rode into the camp before dark, driving a pack-mule loaded with all kinds of grub.  It wasn't long before a good hot meal was prepared; there were willing cooks, and we assured the emigrants that their troubles were over.  The poor girl was too sick to eat; in fact, was almost unconscious.  Her sufferings were too much for Buckner and he swore he would have a doctor there by midnight, if he had to bind him hand and foot and bring him by main force.  Buckner is a good fellow if he is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>MURDER ON THE TRAIL--A PURSUING POSSE--WANTED, A FRENCH DICTIONARY--CARING FOR THE DISTRESSED IMMIGRANTS--JACKSON'S CONFESSION--THE JOLLY CROWD AT THE SALERATUS RANCH--A MIDNIGHT CONCERT AND A ROW--HAYING IN THE MOUNTAINS--LETTERS FROM HOME--THE OLD FOLKS TAKING IT EASY--A PEACE PERSUADER--PARD'S DISPOSITION CHANGES FOR THE BETTER.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>MAY 25, 1851.</p><P>--On Thursday last a fellow rode up post haste to the claim and inquired if one of us was an officer, and when Pard answered that he was a deputy sheriff the man said he was coming in on the trail from Kanaka Creek and just after crossing the river found two men dead; both shot and evidently murdered that morning as they were not stiff yet.  Pard left me to clean up while he went down the creek to summon a posse, and the man went on to town to inform the sheriff.  By the time he got back with his men, five beside me, I was ready and we started for the place.  When we got to Blue Tent we learned that a party horseback--two Mexicans and a white man--had been seen before noon skirting the hill and making through the woods for the ridge.  It was five o'clock in the afternoon before we got to where the men lay and there was everything to prove that they had been murdered.  One was shot through the head and the other three times in the back.  They were Americans, and as there were no arms or money on them there was no doubt they had been robbed.  The sheriff arrived about dusk, but there was nothing to do except set a watch to guard the bodies from the coyotes and send a man up the trail to find out who the murdered men were.  Our party tramped back to the creek tired out, but we were lucky enough on the way to get some grub and coffee from the miners at Blue Tent.  We learned a couple of days later that the men were miners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:from New Orleans Camp; that they had cleaned up about seven thousand dollars between them and were on their way to Nevada and the Bay when they were killed.  We buried them down on the bank of the river, as it was impossible to pack their bodies in to town.  Pard with my horse is off with the sheriff hunting the murderers and has been away since Friday.  I cleaned up yesterday afternoon and got twenty-seven ounces.  Have not been able to read my letter yet; tried to get a French dictionary in town and found that books were as scarce as hens' teeth, so had to send to San Francisco for it.  Think I will study French.  Pard would help me out, but I hardly like to ask him as I do not exactly know how he would look at it.  If I can screw up my courage I think I will tell him all about the madame.  What with the starving emigrants and the murderers we have had an exciting week.</p><P>JUNE 1, 1851.</p><P>--We are certainly having glorious weather.  The days are getting a little warm, but the nights are cool and one, to be comfortable, has to sleep under a blanket.  We gather up the fresh pine needles occasionally and renew our mattress filling, and the pine smell is not only very pleasant but also seems to be a regular sleeping tonic.  The longer one lives here the more the country grows on one.  When I was at San Francisco, where it was foggy, windy and disagreeable, my thoughts turned to the mountains and I longed to get back to Rock Creek again.  Pard has his theory about it and in his learned way says the main charm is that we go back to nature, where we belong; throw off our artificial <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:civilization and turn Pagans, and that the closer we get to Mother Earth the more we are in accord with what the Great Cause intended for us.  This all may be, but pork and beans get monotonous just the same as having none but the society of men makes one wish for the sight of and companionship with a woman.  Still, I am afraid I am getting spoiled for I do not feel as if I could take up again the drudgery and hard work of my old life, and if it was not for the old folks I should care very little about going back to New England again.</p><P>We heard from our emigrants and they are all right.  Two of the men have hired out to the boss of the saw mill on Deer Creek and with the oxen are going to snake logs this summer for the mill.  The family with the sick girl came over to Blue Tent and have settled down there.  The miners in that vicinity have done everything to make them comfortable and are putting on airs because a white family is living there.  The sick girl is well again and as lively as a kitten.</p><P>I have made a clean breast of it to Pard and showed him Marie's letter.  He read it carefully and before translating it to me said that it was written by a good woman.  There was not very much to it and some parts of it made me blush, although it was all very simple and nothing to be ashamed of.  Said she was first attracted by my fresh young face and her wonder that anyone so innocent looking could be a gambler, and when she found out her mistake and heard about me buying the crippled dog and packing him home she was interested.  There was a lot more and I guess I must have been pretty soft when we were together <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:at the city.  I don't believe she will ever come back, but Pard insists that I don't know anything about women, their whims and inclinations, and I can make up my mind that she has come into my life and will not go out without a struggle.  The "old boy" was mighty good, did not laugh or make fun of me or Marie, but said I would have to choose between her and Hetty and that I better quit mooning around like a sick calf and when the crisis came make my choice like a man.  He does not know that the engagement with Hetty is off.  Pard says it is a romance of the pines, although there is nothing very romantic in a hero in a flannel shirt and overalls.</p><P>The claim pays regularly and it is almost certain that we will clean up ten or twelve thousand dollars apiece.</p><P>JUNE 8, 1851.</p><P>--After doing our washing yesterday, one flannel shirt and the dishes, and baking a batch of bread in the Dutch oven I went over to Selby Flat.  There is a young fellow living there called MacCalkins, who has been to our claim several times until we got pretty well acquainted, and he told me what a jolly crowd he cabins with, what good times they have together and has asked me and Pard to come on a visit some Saturday evening.  I coaxed Anderson to go along; said he did not feel like having a stag blowout; rather have a pasear with Jack over on the river, but for me to make the trip and pick up some new friends, it might cure my melancholy.  Pard gets sarcastic occasionally about my sweethearts.</p><P>Well, I went and stayed until three o'clock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Sunday morning and it was a noisy old time if nothing else.  There are six young fellows living together in a big log cabin they have built near the flat and all are working on Brush Creek.  As I remember their names, there were John Dunn, MacCalkins, Charlie Barker, Henry Shively, Delos Calkins and John Hall.  They have christened their cabin Saleratus Ranch and they are certainly the wildest bunch of boys on the creek.  Barker had killed a buck down on Myers ravine and they prepared a regular blowout of a supper: Baltimore cove oysters, venison steak, fried potatoes and dried apple dumplings and it was well cooked.  After supper we sat under an old oak tree, smoked our pipes and exchanged experiences.  They were all doing well on their claims.  There was not a foot of Brush Creek that was not rich and, like everybody else, they were working to make their pile and go back to the States.  I could see in spite of all their joshing that some of them were lonesome and discontented.  After a while they struck up some old songs.  Barker had a sweet voice and sang Scotch airs:  "The Banks and Braes of Bonnie Doon," "Highland Mary" and "The Auld Wife of Alder Valley."  The Calkins' swore these were too solemn and started a nigger song with the lively chorus:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Did you ever see a gin sling made out of brandy?<LB>Johnny am a lingo lay.<LB>Did you ever see a yaller gal suckin' lasses candy?<LB>Johnny am a lingo lay.<LB></HI>
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069.sgm:some of them pretty rocky, and along about eleven o'clock they proposed to serenade the folks up on Selby Flat.  Each one took a gold pan and a stick.  That was the band and the boys paraded around the flat singing a lot of verses they had made up.  Every miner they could find was routed out of his cabin and it was not long before there was at least a hundred in the crowd, banging on the pans and shouting the chorus:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>On Selby Flat we live in style;<LB>We'll stay right here till we make our pile.<LB>We're sure to do it after a while,<LB>Then good-bye to Californy.<LB></HI>
069.sgm:</p><P>Of course, the hotel barroom was doing a great business and some of the men got uproariously drunk.  One big fellow by the name of Bob Odell began to pick on me because I would not drink and sneer at me on account of the French girl.  By and by he called her a name I couldn't stand and I knocked him head over heels and would have hammered the life out of him had not the boys dragged me off, and that broke up the party.  I went back to the cabin, bid them good-bye, went home, woke up Pard and told him about the things and he advised me to shake Selby Flat.  Said they were good fellows, but lack of home ties and restraint made them reckless.  I guess he is right--whiskey and deviltry seem to go hand in hand.</p><P>Some rich diggings have been struck over on Blue Tent above Illinois bar, where the trail crosses the river.  I hear that at Gopher Point they are taking out two and three ounces to the hand.  We cleaned up last week forty-two ounces, but we keep it quiet.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:It's no good blowing your horn when there is nothing to gain.</p><P>JUNE 15, 1851.</p><P>--I did some work last week that brought back old times.  We have kept the horse I bought to ride to Sacramento and there is plenty of feed for him now.  The hills are covered with grass, but later in the year it all burns up and then we have to provide fodder.  There is a clearing up on the mountain of some dozen of acres where the grass grew pretty rank and we concluded we would cut it and stack it for fall and winter use.  I had a dickens of a time finding a scythe and rake and had to ride down to a valley below Rough and Ready before I could get them.  The owner would not sell, but agreed to loan them for a week provided I would pay ten dollars for their use and deposit thirty dollars for the safe return, which I did.  It took Pard and me three days to mow and cure it and we stacked about three tons.  Counting two days going and returning the scythe and rake and two men three days' cutting, Pard says our hay stack cost us about six hundred dollars.  After all, we don't look at it that way; we both enjoyed the change of work, although it was harder than mining.  We certainly do live an irresponsible, free and easy sort of a life.  Every day on the claim counts for a hundred dollars, but we don't mind skipping a day, laying off for an afternoon, or quitting work sun two hours high.  Pard says the claim is a treasure house and it doesn't make any difference whether we draw out our gold in one month or three, as long as we know it is there.</p><P>Letters from home came yesterday.  Dad says he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:doesn't blame me for wanting to stay while I am making so much money.  He writes that mother is better and that since I sent the thousand dollars they are playing rich folks.  He is bossing the two farms and mother has a hired girl.  She has bought a new black silk dress for church and he a new buggy, and that is all they have used of it.  Bless them!  I suppose they think that is awful extravagant.  Hetty has not been to see them but once since she heard of her brother's death, but he thinks she will come out all right.  There are wonderful tales going round old Norfolk about my getting rich and half the town is California crazy.  I would not have believed a year ago that Hetty's thoughts or actions would be of so little interest to me.</p><P>I rode over to Nevada yesterday and bought a revolver from Zeno Davis.  I hear that the fellow I had a fight with at Selby Flat has threatened to do me up when he meets me and Pard says that a good pistol is a great peace persuader.  I won't hunt any trouble and I won't run from it.</p><P>Last week was an off week, but we are going now to put in steady work until we clean up our ground.</p><P>JUNE 22, 1851.</p><P>--We put in good licks all the week and took out thirty-eight ounces.  It's astonishing how steadily the claim yields.  Another thing that makes it pleasant is the change in Pard's disposition.  Instead of moping around and sulking, as he used to, he has brightened up and is as cheerful as a robin.  Then he doesn't get into the dumps when he gets letters from home, and they come regularly.  He got one last night and after reading it he said:  "It may not be so in Hetty's case, but there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>WOMEN ARRIVING IN THE COUNTRY--OUR HERO WRESTLES WITH THE FRENCH LANGUAGE--A WAITER WHO COULD NOT UNDERSTAND HIS NATIVE TONGUE--THE RIVAL FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION AT SELBY FLAT--CLOSE TO A LYNCHING BEE--PARD GETS A SURPRISE--FORMING A RIVER MINING COMPANY--THE SANDHILL SPECULATION PROSPERS--ANDERSON'S REVELATION.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>JUNE 29, 1851.</p><P>--They are going to have a Fourth of July celebration and barbecue at Selby Flat in opposition to Nevada.  Half a dozen more families have settled there in the last month.  Both of the Missouri girls are married; women can't stay single long in this country.  Anderson has been asked to deliver the oration and although he bucked at first he finally accepted.  It's astonishing how everybody looks up to Pard: he seems to be a born leader.  I hear the Saleratus crowd are going to have a burlesque entertainment in the evening.  Pard asked me to spend the day in Nevada, as if I would consent to stay away and he making a speech.  He is afraid I will have trouble with Odell.  Delos Calkins was over here last week and said the fellow was only a big bully and that the ranch would stay with me.  I told him I would look out for No. One and did not need any backers, although, of course, I was pleased that they sided with me.</p><P>Another letter from Marie.  Pard read it for me, although I have been studying French with his aid, an Ollendorf grammar and French dictionary.  If any one should hear us around the cabin he would think we had both gone crazy.  Of all the fool questions and answers that grammar takes the prize.  Pard asks me in French if "I have the tree of my Uncle's garden?" and I say "No, <HI REND="italics">Jai ne pas</HI>
069.sgm:; but I have the rosebush of my cousin," and we keep up this lingo for an hour.  I don't believe I will ever learn to speak it.  I thought I was getting along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:fine and couple of Sundays ago I went into the Hotel de Paris at Nevada.  I told the French waiter what I wanted for dinner and in his own language.  I repeated it to him twice and then he shrugged his shoulders and said: "I talk ze French and ze Italian and speak of ze English a leetle, but ze Dutch I do not understand."  I was so hot that I walked out without my dinner.  I told Pard and he said he must have been an <HI REND="italics">homme de la campagne</HI>
069.sgm: and did not catch on to my Parisian accent.  I think Pard was joshing me, but he kept a sober face and maybe that was the reason.</p><P>Marie says she bought a <HI REND="italics">chateau</HI>
069.sgm: --that's a house--just outside of Paris, but that she is coming back on a visit to California this winter.  It makes my heart jump when I think of seeing her again.</p><P>JULY 6, 1851.</p><P>--I have had an exciting time this week.  Everybody in the neighborhood went over to Selby Flat for the Fourth.  Kellogg read the Declaration of Independence and Pard made one of the best speeches I ever listened to.  The crowd went wild over it and I was mighty proud of him.  There was at least a thousand people on hand.  Along toward evening the barbecue came off, an ox roasted whole and a half a dozen sheep.  The Saleratus Ranchers and their friends organized a company called the "Rag, Tag and Bobtail Rangers," dressed up and paraded in the most ridiculous costumes they could invent and marched around the flat, singing, yelling and shouting until they were so hoarse they could not whisper.  I was looking on peaceably, not interfering with anybody, when I heard a shot and felt a sting in my shoulder.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:whirled around and saw Pard wrestling with Odell.  He wrenched a pistol away from him and beat him over the head until he was insensible.  then he ran to me and said: "Boy, are you hurt?" but I wasn't--just a little graze on my collarbone.  I never saw anybody quite as excited as Pard until he found out that there was no harm done.  The fellow came to by this time and the crowd wanted to hang him, but Pard interfered, saying it would be a disgrace to the camp, so they agreed to banish him, giving him twenty-four hours to pack up and leave with penalty of hanging if he ever came back.  That was enough Fourth of July for Pard and me and we went back to the creek and I got lectured all the way home about getting into scrapes.  I didn't kick back for I knew he was making believe so I wouldn't think he cared much and was trying to hide his real feelings.  When we got to the cabin we let Jack out and sat under the tree, the moon shining, the wind sighing through the pine boughs, the dog at our feet, and we got as sentimental as two old maids.  He told me what a lonely man he had been until we began cabining together and how luck had turned and fortune had favored him in many ways since then.  He looks on me as a sort of younger brother and I am sure I could not like an own brother any better.  Jack wagged his tail as if he understood it all, and I enjoyed the evening better than the celebration; but Selby Flats knocked the spots off of Nevada all the same.</p><P>JULY 13, 1851.</p><P>--It was Pard who got a surprise this week.  We had a special invitation to come over to Selby Flat Wednesday night and, although <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Pard did not want to go, a delegation came over for us and we could not very well refuse.  We did not know what was up and they would not let on, but when we got there we found a crowd of about a hundred miners gathered at the hotel.  Of course, it was drinks all around; you can't do anything in this country without setting 'em up first, and then Henry Shively made a talk.  Said that the miners of Brush and Rock Creeks and the residents of Selby Flats were proud of the fact that they had a man among them who, as an orator, laid over anything that the town of Nevada could produce as was demonstrated by his Fourth of July speech and that the Nevada City lawyers were not to be mentioned in the same class as Anderson.  Then he produced a big gold watch that weighed about a pound and presented it to Pard as a token of the boys' appreciation.  Pard was so taken back that for a while he couldn't speak, but he finally caught on and gave them a nice talk.  Then he set up the drinks again and we left for the cabin.  When we got there we looked over the watch by candle light; it certainly was a stunner and must have cost three or four hundred dollars.  There was an inscription:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Presented to L. T. Anderson, July Fourth,<LB>1851, by his admiring friends and miners<LB>of Brush and Rock Creeks.  He made the<LB>eagle scream."<LB></HI>
069.sgm:</p><P>For some reason Pard did not seem to be very chirrupy and when I asked him what ailed him he said: "Alf, I've been playing it pretty low down on you boys.  My name ain't Anderson and I never can wear this watch where I am known."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>I nearly fell off the bench, but he kept on talking: "There is nothing wrong, Alf; I am as straight as a shoe string.  There were reasons that when I came here made me change my name, but matters are coming out different than I expected and it won't be long before I will be the man I was before I left Syracuse.  When the right time comes I will tell you the whole story and you will not be ashamed of your pard."</p><P>Then, as usual, when he got to feeling off, he whistled to the dog and they went out into the dark.  You could have knocked me down with a feather, but I had sense enough not to follow.  It's a puzzle, but I'll bet my pile there is nothing wrong about Pard.</p><P>JULY 20, 1851.</p><P>--We formed our river company; eight of us, and we let a contract to a couple of Maine men to whipsaw out twenty thousand feet of lumber at one hundred dollars per thousand.  Pard is engineering the scheme and says that about the last of August it will be low water and then we will do some lively work wingdamming the stream.  He is sure that the bed of the river will pay big if we can get at it and stay in it long enough to clean up a good sized strip of it.  I don't know a thing about it except that it does seem reasonable that with gold all along the banks and in every creek and gulch that runs into it the gold ought to find its way into the trough of the river.  That's the way it is along Deer Creek, and we were told by some miners who came down from the North Yuba, which seems to be a branch of our river, that in the fall of '50 they managed to get into it in a half-dozen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:places and that two or three of the companies cleaned up fortunes.  One thing sure, all our old theories about gold don't amount to much.  Instead of the deposits petering out, the miners are strikingit richer in every direction and in places where we did not think of looking for it a year ago.  On Selby Hill there is a deep channel running into the mountain and there is more gold in it than there was on Brush Creek.  On the other side of Sugar Loaf, way up on the hill, there is another big streak that seems to run in the same direction as Deer Creek, only it is five hundred feet higher up.  Then down at Grass Valley they are taking out chunks of gold from quartz.  Since this discovery the miners have got it into their heads that these rocks are the most likely source of the gold and some parties have built a crushing machine which pounds up the rock and leaves the gold free to catch in sluices.</p><P>JULY 27, 1851.</p><P>--Our claim is pretty nearly played out.  There may be a month's more work, but the bed-rock raises up on each side of the flat along the hill and there is no gravel in that direction.  Pard thinks we had better work together for a couple of weeks and then he will go down on the river to get things ready, leaving me to clean up.  If we take out three thousand dollars more I will have made altogether twelve thousand dollars, counting what I have sent home and invested with Pard at the Bay.  He got a letter from John Perry, his agent who is looking after the lots, and he tells him he can double his money if he wants to sell, but Pard says: "Let's hold on and make a big stake <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:or nothing."  One night last week after supper, we were sitting out under the old tree, when he spoke up suddenly and said: "Alf, there is no reason why I should not tell you part of my story and my real name.  I am not ashamed of it and there is no reason why I should conceal it."  Then he went on to say that his true name was--and that he was born at Syracuse, went through college, studied law and practiced in his own town until he came here.  He did not build up much of a business and while he was as poor as Job's off ox he married a girl who had considerable money in her own right.  He loved her dearly, but she was extravagant, fond of society and luxury, which he could not afford from his own income, and she would not settle down until he could make his way.  Then they began quarreling and she nagged him about her money and her family until he could not stand it any longer and, the gold fever breaking out, he left for California.  He made up his mind never to go back until he had as much money as his wife, and, if he failed, why then he would disappear for good.  She thought he was in San Francisco, wrote to him there and the letters were forwarded by a friend to Nevada.  For some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:time past she has been coaxing him to return or let her come here, and he had promised to go to the States next spring.  That is all there was to the story.  He did not say much about what she was writing, but I knew from the change in him that things were different from what they were when I first met him, and he was pretty happy over it.  Of course, he would have to keep the name of Anderson until he left Nevada, as he could not explain the situation to anyone but me.  I can see now why he used to be so sarcastic about the troubles women could make.  I hope it will come out all right.<ANCHOR ID="n9-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1">(NOTE.--While Jackson's frank revelations concerning himself, his experiences, loves and adventures can with safety be given to the world, as he and his kin have vanished into the unknown, the name that he reveals as the rightful one of his partner is another matter.  It is that of one who stood among the foremost at the San Francisco Bar and high in the councils of the State; famous and successful as a pleader in many of the noted cases before the courts, an orator of persuasive eloquence and, withal, a man of fortune.  He has been dead many years, but his immediate descendants are living in California, enjoying the fruits of his wealth and the benefits of his honorable name.  While there is nothing disgraceful in the episode, still it is a chapter in his domestic affairs in which the hero must remain unidentified.</NOTE></DIV>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>FASCINATION OF THE SIERRA FOOT--HILLS--AN IDEAL FRIENDSHIP--LOUSY LEVEL--JACK AND THE MOUNTAIN LION--THE BURNING PINE--SAWMILL INVASION OF THE FORESTS--MOUNTING A BRONCO--CRUEL PUNISHMENT DEALT TO PETTY THIEVES--DEPARTURE FOR THE RIVER.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>AUGUST 3, 1851.</p><P>--What a funny kind of life this is.  While I think it all over it seems as if I was dreaming and must soon wake up.  And yet the old life in the Connecticut hills is as far away and vague as if it were on another planet.  Then I was content to jog along on the farm working from sunrise to dark for eight months in the year and usually snowed up for the other four months.  To be sure, we had our fun, the singing school, the sleigh rides, the husking bee, skating on Norfolk pond and I was pretty well content, but I could not stand it now; it looks dull beside what I have gone through since I have been here.  If it was not for dad and mother I don't believe I should care to go back.  Now I am easily worth ten thousand dollars and perhaps more, which two years ago would have seemed to be a pile of money, but it doesn't look very big to me now I have got it.  Not that I do not have to work hard, but the harness does not gall me as it used to.  The country is not more beautiful than the Litchfield hills; it is all burned up, dry and dusty, our grub is bad and our cooking worse, but when night comes round and we have had our wash and supper and go out under the big tree, Pard and I smoking our pipes, Jack nosing around and answering the bark of the coyote or sprawled out at our feet, cocking his ears at our talk, the wind singing through the pine trees, the frogs croaking in the creek, it seems as if only one thing was wanted to make it perfect--a good woman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:for a companion to enjoy it with you.  Pard says: "You remember what happened when Eve came into Paradise?  She would make you move into town, put on store clothes and wear a collar.  You could not get her to sit out under the tree for fear of snakes."  Then he laughed and said: "Make the most of it--it won't last forever."  It would puzzle anyone if they should overhear us.  We talk in French until my jaws get twisted, and then we plan what we are going to do in the future.  Pard is going to the Bay and will open a law office and I don't know what I will drift into.  He says that in later years he will meet me on the Paris Boulevards and that I will be so Frenchified that he will not know me.  That's all fancy, although it is not so bad a prospect if things turn out as I would like.<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
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069.sgm:<P>Pard is snoring in bed, with Jack curled up on the foot of the bunk, and it is time to turn in.  I am writing a lot more in this diary than when I started it and saying things I would not care to have anybody read.  I think I will burn it up soon, although I like to go over it and see how it all happened.</p><P>AUGUST 10, 1851.</p><P>--Pard is spending his days down on the river, and as it is only about four miles he rides over and back, morning and evening.  I have not paid much attention to it  as it seems to me it is going to be a hard job, but Pard has figured it all out from ideas of his own and hints that he has picked up from the fellows who did the same sort of work last fall up on the North Fork.  He broke out laughing at supper last night, and when I asked him what made him so good natured he said: "What do you think they call the bar below our claims on the river--`The Lousy Level.'"  There are some pretty rough names to the gulches and flats around here, but that is the worst of all of them.  The bar is really a flat and about a dozen men are working on it, all doing well.  The river is very low now, and Pard thinks we will be able to get into it in a couple of weeks.  He will take down five men to-morrow and begin to lay out the work.  We pay these men ten dollars a day.  We will not have to build any cabins, brush shanties will do, as we have to quit at the first storm.  I ordered a bill of grub at Caldwell's yesterday, about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:two hundred and fifty dollars' worth, which will be packed down this week, beside sledge hammers, nails, saw and some other tools.  There will only be four of the company to lend a hand, as the rest are doing too well on their creek claims to leave them for the river, so we will hire eight men to help us, if we can get them.  It's lonesome working alone, although I have Jack for company, as Pard won't let the dog go to the river--it's too long a tramp.  Jack had a narrow escape Friday.  I heard him barking furiously up the gulch above the ditch and went to see what the trouble was.  It was lucky I did, for I heard a spitting and snarling up in an old oak tree and there on a limb was a big mountain lion, lashing his tail and getting ready for a spring.  I think he heard me coming, or it would have been good-bye Jack!  I banged away at the beast with my six shooter and think I hit him.  He jumped from the tree, made for the brush and that was the last of him.  Pard saw a she grizzly and two cubs on the river trail last week, but he had not lost any bears and gave her the go-by.  Mountain lions are plenty, although this is the first one I have seen.  Think I can clean up the rest of the claim this week, and then we have decided to nail up the cabin and go down on the river and stay there until the rains.</p><P>AUGUST 17, 1851.</p><P>--Finished up the old flat and abandoned the claim.  Brought the "Tom" and sluice boxes to the cabin.  We may want to use them later.  I figure out that with the five thousand five hundred dollars I have sent home, the twenty-five hundred dollars invested at the Bay and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:dust I have on hand I am worth over eleven thousand dollars, not counting any increase in the Frisco lots.  That is doing pretty well for eighteen months' work; still, there is nothing extraordinary about it, as many have made ten times as much.  On the other hand, a lot of the boys are just where they started, but in the majority of cases it is by reason of their improvidence rather than bad luck.  It is easy come and easy go, and it makes spend-thrifts out of the careless, happy-go-lucky fellows.</p><P>As Pard don't need me I am going to lay off for a week and loaf.  We want another horse, and I will try and pick up a broncho somewhere.  Got a long letter from home yesterday, which I answered last night.  Mother's health is better and the old folks are taking it easy.  I guess it is all up between Hetty and me.  Dad says she does not visit them any more and she is telling everybody that she has given me the mitten.  All right, I won't contradict her, and if Marie should come back this fall there won't be any strings on me.  If, by any chance, I should marry a Frenchwoman, what a buzz there will be in old Norfolk.  A couple of the Saleratus Ranch boys were over to see me this afternoon.  They are curious about our river scheme, but have not much faith in it.  I hear there are two other companies who are going into the same sort of mining on the river above Rose's Bar.  The weather has been blistering hot for the past ten days and the air is full of smoke from mountain fires.  The dry needles burn like tinder.  An old dead sugar pine over on the mountain caught fire last night, and it was a great sight to see it burn.  The flames shot up in the air at least four hundred feet and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:although it was two miles away I could hear the crackling and roaring plainly.  This is a great timber country.  There are several kinds of pines, but what they call the sugar pine is the finest of the lot.  Some of them are twelve feet in diameter and two hundred and fifty feet high.  It seems a pity that there should not be some use for it.  There is a sawmill at Grass Valley, which is kept busy turning out lumber for houses for the towns round-about, and what little the miners need for boxes, and another one up on Deer Creek, just started, but it doesn't look as if there was demand enough to keep two of them going.  Twenty sawmills could not use up the supply in a thousand years.<ANCHOR ID="n10-2">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-2">(Note.--And yet fifty years have almost deforested the foothills.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>AUGUST 24, 1851.</p><P>--I have lazed around all the week between the cabin and town.  I picked up a pretty good mustang in Nevada, paid eighty dollars for him, and the first time I rode him I wished mustangs had never been invented.  He bucked me all over Main Street.  The town turned out to see the fun and I could hear them yell: "Go it, Yank; go it, broncho!" but I stuck to him until I got up on the trail and then I got off and made a few remarks so hot that they burned up the chapparal.  Gracious, my backbone still aches!  Queer thing that when I led him up on the flat and got on again he loped off as steady as a plow horse.</p><P>While I was in town Thursday the crowd tied up three men to the bridge over Deer Creek and gave them twenty-five lashes apiece, on the bare back, then turned them loose and banished them from the place with a threat to hang them if they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:came back.  All three were petty thieves, who had been caught stealing.  I could not help pitying the poor devils.  Two of them howled for mercy, but one gritted his teeth and cursed the crowd with every stroke.  There were but a few miners there and it would be hard to get together a worse lot of savages than the ones who stood around gloating over the wretches.  The chances are that nine out of ten of the lookers-on, if they got their deserts, deserved the same sort of punishment that was being dealt out to the culprits.  The trouble is that most of the men are too ready to set themselves up as judges and, swayed by their passions, inflict penalties, even to sentences of death, on insufficient evidence.  Only three weeks ago the mob hung a Chilean at Rose's Bar for horse stealing and the next day the horse he was accused of stealing was found in the hills above French Corral.</p><P>We have packed our pots, kettles, tin plates and Dutch oven down to the river camp, and I will nail up the old place and join the crowd in the morning.  I sort of hate to leave it, although we will come back in the fall when we get through with our new enterprise.  Looking back on the year past, I have had a pretty good time on the creek and have been more than lucky.  There is no better companion than Pard, we have made money, our neighbors are mostly good fellows and, while it has been hard work and rough living, we have had health and appetites that would breed a famine.  I have spent the day writing letters, one to Marie and a long one home to the folks.  Won't have much time for writing for the next month or two.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>FLUMING THE SOUTH YUBA--IN THE BED OF THE STREAM--A PICTURESQUE CAMP--GUARDING THE GOLD DUST--EXTENDING THE REAL ESTATE SPECULATION--JACKSON FORMS THE READING HABIT--THE FASCINATION OF THE "THREE MUSKETEERS"--A REFORMATION AT SELBY FLAT--AN EXPERIMENTAL VEGETABLE GARDEN ON ROCK CREEK--THE BIGGEST POKER GAME TO DATE.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>OCTOBER 19, 1851.</p><P>--I certainly have put in eight weeks of about as hard work as ever mortal man did, but am through with it and have made some money.  It cost us for material, including everything, three thousand dollars, and we paid out four thousand dollars for labor.  We took out twenty-nine thousand dollars in twenty-one days' work for fourteen men, or nearly fourteen hundred dollars a day.  We worked both day and night, eight men in daylight and six men at night.  We will divide twenty-two thousand dollars, or about twenty-seven hundred and fifty dollars for each one of the company.  That is not bad, but it did not pay as much as the flat on the creek.  Pard is disappointed, but I am very well satisfied.  It was great work.  First we built a flume close up on the north side of the river and about three hundred feet from the head of our claims, five hundred feet long, eight feet wide, and sides three and one-half feet high.  We put up a dam diagonally from the head of the claim to the head of the flume, turning all of the water in the river through the flume.  Then we built another dam at the foot of the flume to keep the back water out, and that gave us a stretch of five hundred feed of the river bed fairly dry.  We ran two Toms and three rockers steady, wheeling dirt to the Toms and using the rockers wherever we found gravel.  There were a lot of big boulders on the bed-rock, and it was around these and in the crevices that we got most of the gold.  There was one big <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:pot hole that we thought would be full of dust, but we did not get an ounce out of it.  The richest spots were down stream in front of the boulders.  We got one pan under a five-ton rock that had fourteen ounces.  The most of the gold was fine.  The biggest piece we found weighed a little less than an ounce and quite a lot from a dollar to three dollars.  At night we built big wood fires and used pitch pine torches to work by and the can&tilde;on made a pretty picture, lit up by the blaze.  On the 14th it began to cloud up and looked like it was storming up in the mountains and on the 15th it rained hard.  The river began to raise and we got our tools out and by night the water was coming over the dam.  At midnight she was booming, and in the morning it was a rushing torrent and there was no sign of dam, flume, or anything else to show where we had been at work, so we broke camp and took the trail for town.  We packed the gold in on the old horse with four of us to guard it, and deposited it in Mulford's bank.  I was mighty glad when we got it there for it has been a trial ever since we started to take it out, and the more we got, the more worry.  Pard took charge of it during the day, slept on top of it--he worked nights--and I did the same at night.  There was not much danger, however, as there were fifteen of us, including the cook--a pretty big gang for thieves to tackle.  We have agreed to lay off for a couple of weeks, and what we will do then is uncertain.  Pard talks of taking a trip to the Bay to be gone about ten days, to look after matters there, and wants me to go along; but I don't believe I will.  If he finds things favorable he will buy some more real estate and I am willing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:to invest some more on his judgment.  He tells me many of the coast valleys are settling up with farmers, who are raising hay and grain and are getting big prices for their crops.  It may be a good farming country, but it looks pretty uncertain to me where there isn't a particle of moisture for seven months in the year.</p><P>OCTOBER 26, 1851.</p><P>--The rain has settled the dust and washed off the trees so that they are bright and clean.  Sitting in the cabin door and looking out in the woods, one can't help noticing the different shades of green.  It is not like our October woods back home, a blaze of color; but all the hues from the almost black of the firs to the almost yellow of the alder and every intermediate shade.  It certainly is restful to the eye.  The days are perfect and so are the nights, only it grows chill at sunset and I pile up the logs in the big fireplace and enjoy the warmth until bedtime.  The mornings are frosty and cold, but the sun soon warms it up.  The sunsets at this time of the year are grand, especially on clear days.  Just as the sun goes down the whole western sky is a vivid crimson red, and seen through the pine trees it looks as if the world was on fire.  Pard went to Frisco early in the week to be gone a fortnight, and I am laying off and having a lazy time until he comes back.  We bought a lot of books along during the summer and some pretty solid ones, among them a set of "Chambers' Encyclopedia of English Literature" and a few novels.  I have not read very much as I was generally too tired after supper to do anything but sleep, but since Pard went away I started <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:in on the "Three Guardsmen," written by a Frenchman by the name of Dumas.  I never realized before how much pleasure there was to be had in reading.  There are seven volumes, and I have read them by the firelight until I could not hold my eyes open any longer, and tackled them again after breakfast, lying on my back under the old pine tree, so interested that I forgot when dinner time came around.  There are four heroes: Athos, Porthos, Aramis and D'Artagnan, and they surely had most surprising adventures.  I like D'Artagnan best, although Porthos is a great fellow.  It's wonderful how in reading so interesting a romance one forgets everything around him and lives in another world.</p><P>Have ridden over on Brush Creek a couple of times visiting my old acquaintances.  They were all busy, and it was pleasant to sit on the bank and watch them work.  They are curious about the results of our river mining.  It has got round that we took out a hundred thousand dollars and I did not say yes or no, as some of the partners might not want the facts given.  Selby Flat is getting to be quite a place.  There are at least a couple of dozen women living there.  The wives of some of the wildest boys on the creek have come out to join their husbands, and it has sobered them down considerably.  Jim Peters was drowned last week.  He was a hard worker, but would go on a big spree occasionally.  He got full on the Flat at one of the saloons and started for his cabin after dark.  He must have stumbled and fallen while crossing the creek for they found him face downward, dead, in less than a foot of water.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>Rode over to the river yesterday.  The water has gone down and there is no trace of our work left, except the brush shelters on the bank.  I hear that the two companies below us did as well, if not better, than us.  I have changed my ideas a good deal about this country.  I thought a year ago that by this time there would not be any gold left and that the foothills and mountains would be as deserted as they were when we first came.  But it isn't so.  More and bigger deposits are found every day and there seems to be no end to it.  If it keeps on, gold won't be worth much more than lead.<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1">(It kept on and has added a billion or more to the world's stock of the precious metal, and, notwithstanding Jackson's fears, it is about as valuable and much harder to get than in the "Fifties.")</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>NOVEMBER 2, 1851.</p><P>--Pard got back yesterday.  I did not know him when he struck the cabin.  He had shaved his beard all off, except his mustache, and was dressed up in a "biled shirt"--the first I ever saw him wear--and a suit of black broadcloth, but he soon shed his good clothes and got into woolen shirt and overalls.  Jack was as badly fooled as I was and started to eat Pard up until he got a smell of him, and then the old dog went crazy.  Pard tells me that he has invested eight thousand dollars more, of which three thousand dollars is for me, if I want it, and that he was offered eighteen thousand dollars clear profit on our first investment, but did not take it as he was satisfied that by next spring he could sell out for from forty to fifty thousand dollars more than we put in.  If this is so, I am worth fifteen thousand dollars.  We have been planning what we will do this winter, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:but have not come to any conclusion yet.  Pard thinks we had better try the gulch above the ditch and see if the rich streak runs into the hill.  It paid up as far as the ditch, but the bank is thirty feet deep and we will have to prospect it by drifting.  He has fully made up his mind to go to the Bay to live next spring, and if he leaves I do not think I will stay here.  Our neighbor, Platt, who lives in the cabin below us on the creek, has been experimenting this summer with a garden.  He enclosed and spaded up about a hundred feet square and planted beans, peas, corn, tomatoes, lettuce, potatoes and melons, and all but the melons turned out fine.  He sent us up some string beans and tomatoes some time ago and yesterday, in honor of Pard's return, he brought over a dozen ears of corn, a peck of potatoes and a lot of lettuce.  We had a grand feast.  It was the first mess of green vegetables we have had on the creek, although there has been some for sale in town.  Platt talks about putting in an acre or more next spring, as he believes he can make a lot of money raising garden truck.  We can also get a quart of fresh milk occasionally.  Scott has taken up a little ranch on the head of the creek and has four cows.  He charges a dollar a quart, but it is worth it.  I also got a couple of pounds of fresh butter of him last week.  It did not taste like the stinking, strong firkin butter brought out from the States.  Grub of all kinds is getting to be pretty reasonable.  The storekeepers in town are stocking up for the winter.  I counted nine twelve-mule teams unloading yesterday on Main Street.  These teams are a sight, from six to eight span of big mules hauling three wagons.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:load eight and ten tons, charge forty dollars a ton, and make the round trip from Sacramento to Nevada and return in about a week.  The mules are mostly from Kentucky, and I am told that some of the outfits are valued at ten thousand dollars.</p><P>Barker was over to see us to-day and told us of a big poker game that has been running at Coyoteville this week.  There were four partners in one of the richest claims on the hill and they got to gambling together.  They started in playing five dollars ante and passing the buck.  Then they raised it to twenty-five dollars ante each, and Jack Breedlove, one of the partners, cleaned out the rest of them, winning twenty-two thousand dollars.  Not satisfied with this they staked their interests in the claim, valuing a fourth at ten thousand dollars, and, when the game quit, Zeke Roubier, another of the partners, won back eight thousand dollars and held to his fourth interest.  The other two went broke and Breedlove ended by owning three-fourths of the claim and winning fourteen thousand dollars in gold, so that altogether he was thirty-four thousand dollars ahead.  He offered his old partners work in the mine at an ounce a day, which they refused, packed their blankets and started out in search of new diggings.  They surely were a couple of fools and, as it was a square game, they can only blame themselves.  The gamblers over in Nevada City play for high stakes, but this miners' game is said to be the biggest one that has been played anywhere around this section.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>A TRIP TO THE MOUNTAINS--AN EXPERIENCE IN A SIERRA SNOWSTORM--PERILS OF THE NORTH FORK CAN&tilde;ON--AN OPPORTUNE FIND OF A DESERTED CABIN--ENTERTAINMENT FOR MAN AND BEAST--THE RETURN TO ROCK CREEK--HOSPITABLE MINERS--DISCOVERY OF THE BIG BLUE LEAD--OPENING THE ANCIENT RIVER CHANNELS.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>NOVEMBER 9, 1851.</p><P>--Pard and I have loafed around all the week, not doing much of anything.  It rained a couple of days, but has cleared off and is pleasant, although cold, and we keep a fire going in the fireplace about all of the time.  Pard suggested that we take a trip off up in the mountains and see what they are like.  We have often stood up on the ridge, looked off at the range and snow peaks miles away and agreed that some day we would explore them, but we have been too busy working to spare the time.  We are now in the mood and to clinch it Pard bought a jackass from a Mexican in town and brought him over here.  We will use him to pack our grub and cooking outfit and we have planned to start to-morrow or next day.  Platt will take care of Jack until we get back.</p><P>I have had a sober talk with Pard about our futures.  I got another letter from Marie--I can talk pretty fair French and read it--and she says she is surely coming back by the first of the year, if not sooner.  Pard says he doesn't want me to go wrong and it is time to quit fooling or else take it up seriously.  He argues that I have no right to lead her on unless my intentions are honorable.  I had to confess that I had made her a partial promise before she went away but did not have much faith in her coming back.  Now it all seems like a dream.  I never liked another woman as well.  She is straight, and I think I am willing to marry her, but what will the old folks say: a foreigner and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Catholic, and I brought up a strict Presbyterian.  Norfolk will set me down for a lost sheep.  Not that I care what their opinions or criticisms may be, as I have about made up my mind that I will never go back there except on a visit.  To all of which Pard says that I am hit hard--and he thinks by the symptoms that I will make her my wife if all of New England objects and that it is in her favor that she has seen more or less of the world.  He says it's proof enough of her feelings if she is willing to come five thousand miles to join me and that she would make me a truer and more agreeable companion than some little, sniffling, narrow-minded Puritan brought up on Calvinistic doctrine and mince pie, predestined to dyspepsia and doctrinal doubting.  That is a mean fling at Hetty; but then Pard likes Marie and is prejudiced in her favor.  Oh, well, I have got a month or more to decide and I won't worry until the time comes.</p><P>NOVEMBER 30, 1851.</p><P>--Back from our trip.  Got home Thursday and we were gone eighteen days.  It was in the main a pleasant journey, although we had a snowstorm experience that I do not care to repeat.  We camped the first night on the ridge above Illinois Bar and then went on to New Orleans Flat and from there to Alleghany and over to La Porte and Port Wine.  All of these places were rich and most of them coarse gold camps, and we heard some big stories of the amount of dust the miners were taking out.  The richest place we found in our travels was at Goodyear Bar on the North Fork, and the ravine that leads down to it.  We were told for a fact that the bed-rock in this ravine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:was bare for a mile; that the gold lay along it in piles and that it was picked and scooped up without panning or washing.  They swear that it yielded over two hundred and fifty thousand dollars; one piece weighing four hundred ounces and a lot more from five up to a hundred ounces.  The claims on the bar were only twenty-four feet square, and as high as twenty thousand dollars had been taken out of some of them.  That beats Brush Creek, although there are claims on Coyote Hill that paid nearly as well.  After leaving Goodyear Bar, we went over on to Can&tilde;on Creek and followed it down past Brandy City diggings to the river.  It had been pleasant weather up to that time, but it clouded up after we left Brandy diggings and when we got down to the mouth of the can&tilde;on it was snowing so hard that we could not see twenty feet ahead of us.  We followed up along the north bank to Slate Creek, stumbling along in the snow, which by this time was two feet deep, and nearly lost one of our horses which slipped off the bank.  Luckily the brute fell into the river and by hard work we got the animal back on the trail.  We were soaking wet and half frozen, and it was almost dark when we reached the mouth of Slate Creek.  By good fortune we found a big log cabin on the flat, locked up and nobody home.  It was no time to stand on ceremony, so we broke open the door and took possession.  I rustled up a lot of wood--there was a dead pine tree close by and some oak logs alongside the cabin--and built a blazing big fire in the fireplace.  That was the most comfortable and cheerful blaze I ever experienced.  We could not leave the horses and the jack out in the storm, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:they would have perished before morning, so we cleared away the truck from one end of the cabin and brought them inside; the shanty was big enough for all of us.  Then we rummaged around and found a sack of flour, a bag of corn-meal, some pork and beans of course, and a canister of tea.  Best of all there were two bunks with mattresses filled with dry grass, which we ripped open.  We gave the fillings to the animals and they tackled it as if it had been the best of timothy hay.  It did seem as if Providence interfered in our behalf.  Our pack of provisions was soaked through and without shelter we certainly would have perished in the storm.  Instead, we had plenty to eat, a good fire, a tight shanty, roomy enough for us all, and we knew it could not be very far to some inhabited miners' camp.  A wilder night there never was.  We were down in the bottom of a deep can&tilde;on, at least three thousand feet below the top of the ridge and seemingly completely out of the world.  The snow fell in flakes as big as my hand, the wind shrieked and howled and blew in gusts that rocked the cabin, and every once in a while we could hear the crash of a big pine tree blown down by the gust.  A dozen times during the night Pard and I fought our way out into the storm, breaking off the dead branches of the pine log for our fire, as we did not dare to let it go out, and then fought our way back again.  There was no sleep for us that night, and yet through it all the horses and the jack munched away at their fodder contentedly, not seeming to mind the rumpus a bit.  That is the difference between animals and men.  We were worried over the prospect and they apparently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:shifted the responsibility on our shoulders and the tempest had no terrors for them.  The storm kept us in all the next day.  We confiscated the cornmeal, mixed it with about half flour and made a mash for the animals, which they enjoyed hugely, and I managed to chop off a lot of young alder branches on the creek for them to browse on.  There was plenty of grub for Pard and I, but there was a question of how long we would be forced to stay there.  We would have given a few ounces to have been back in our old Rock Creek cabin.  However, that night the storm let up and the next day the sun was shining bright.  We knew that Oregon Creek was not very far away on the south side of the stream, and as it was mined all along its course we would be sure to find help.  Pard wrote a note to whoever owned the cabin giving our names, address and why we burst it open, and about nine o'clock we started out.  By taking advantage of the bare spots where the wind had blown the snow away and breaking trail through the woods--in places it was four feet deep--we managed by three o'clock in the afternoon to climb out on the top of the ridge.  Here again we were in the biggest kind of luck, for we came out within a quarter of a mile of a station and packers' stopping place where there was plenty for man and beast.  We stayed there two days resting up and then left for home and had no more trouble.  That day we crossed the Middle Fork and put up at the Ford and the next day traveled through Cherokee, crossing our own river at the north of Rock Creek, and were soon back on our old stamping ground and safe and sound.  All in all, we enjoyed the trip.  We saw a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:lot of wild country, some grand scenery, and wherever we went we found men hunting and digging for gold.  I guess we stopped at forty cabins on the way: never failed to get an invitation to grub, never were allowed to pay a cent, and I want to put it down right here that bigger hearted, more generous, or more hospitable men than there are in these mountains never lived on earth.  Pard says yes--and deeper can&tilde;ons, higher peaks, nor wilder tempests cannot be found anywhere else.  It makes us both pretty sober when we think of our two nights and a day down on the North Yuba river gorge.</p><P>DECEMBER 7, 1851.</p><P>--Now that we are capitalists I believe we have both grown lazy.  At least since we got back from our hard trip to the mountains we have done nothing much beside riding around the country to near-by localities and loafing about the cabin projecting and planning as to what we will do this winter.</p><P>One of our friends is working a claim on Gopher Point, just below Blue Tent, which he seems to think is rich.  He offered us a quarter interest for $2,000.  We rode over to look at it and concluded we did not want to buy.  It is different from any other diggings in this part of the country, and is a puzzle to all of the miners.  A bed of blue gravel lies about six hundred feet above the river, on a steep side hill, and seems to run into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:mountain.  All of the gravel down on Rock and Brush Creeks and on the Nevada side of Sugar Loaf is a loose mixture of quartz pebbles and sand easily washed, but this deposit has neither sand nor quartz and is as hard as a rock.  The miners have to use blasting powder to blow it up and then it comes out in great chunks and has to be broken up with sledge hammers before it can be washed.  There is no question that it is rich, as we could see the gold sticking to the rocks; but the men are not making very good wages on account of the difficulty of separating the dirt from the cobbles.  I remember now that MacCalkins, who went to Walloupa and Gouge Eye last summer when there was an excitement over the discovery of bench claims in that locality, described this same sort of gravel that had been found where Greenhorn Creek cut through it.  As that is on the south side of the ridge, it looks as if the streak ran clear through underneath the mountain.<ANCHOR ID="n12-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1">(Note.--The Gopher Point miners had struck into the ancient river channel since known as the Blue Lead, now definitely and distinctly located a distance of forty miles from Smartsville on the west, where it debouched into the ocean that then washed the shores of the Sierra Nevada foothills, to Dutch Flat on the southeast, where it had its watershed in the high mountains.  At least fifty million dollars in gold have been taken out of this old channel from the many openings along its course.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>Friday we rode over and along Deer Creek to learn about a new method of mining being done there.  The miners put in a long string of sluice boxes, dovetailing into each other with a lot of riffles in the bottom, then shovel all of the dirt in from both sides, forking out the cobbles and stones with a long handled, six-tined fork.  A lot of dirt can be handled in this way, and although the creek bed had been worked over before with rockers and Toms, they say they are making more going over it the second time than when it was first mined.  Rock Creek has all been worked out and abandoned and if Deer Creek pays to work over it ought to do the same.  We decided to try it and will start <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:in next week.  First, however, we had to call a miners' meeting and adopt a new law to the effect that in a creek that had been previously mined, under the old twenty-four foot rule, the ground could be taken up and held in claims of three hundred feet in length and from bank to bank.  We located two this morning for ourselves and got Platt, Dixon, McManus and Ames, our neighbors, to take up four more and transfer them to us by purchase, we agreeing to give them one hundred dollars each if the ground paid.  That gives us control of eighteen hundred feet.  Then the same crowd repeated the deal, so that each one holds fifteen hundred feet and among us we have over a mile of the creek bed.</p><P>Another letter from home and I received a box of things that mother made and sent.  The dear old mother, what a queer idea she has of the climate out here.  There were in the box a dozen pair of thick woolen socks, two pairs of mittens and a heavy worsted comforter.  She said she thought they would be useful this winter and that I would like them because she knit them herself.  God bless her!  Here I am going around in my shirt sleeves.  Best of all were daguerreotypes of her and father.  She wrote that they had ridden over to Winsted to have them taken and that she wore her new black silk dress.  Dad looks as spruce as a banker and mother is a beauty if she is fifty-two years old.  Down in the corner of the box was a Bible.  She said she knew I had the one she gave me when I came away, but maybe I had thumbed it until it was worn out.  I would not tell her for a thousand dollars that I had not opened it for six months.  Gracious! how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>SETTING SLUICE BOXES--PROMISED CHRISTMAS FEAST AT SELBY FLAT--THE FIRST NEWSPAPER ESTABLISHED--HERMIT PLATT TELLS HIS STORY--A PIONEER OVERLAND EXPEDITION ACROSS THE ARID ARIZONA DESERTS--PERILS AND DANGERS OF THE JOURNEY--A WELCOME OASIS--ARRIVAL AT DON WARNER'S RANCH--SAD NEWS AWAITS THE ARGONAUT AT SAN FRANCISCO.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>DECEMBER 14, 1851.</p><P>--We bought enough lumber in town last week to make a dozen sluice boxes and had it hauled out here.  There were about five hundred feet and the mill charged twenty-five dollars for it and fifteen dollars extra for delivering.  We have got the boxes made and, if it does not storm, will be ready to set them in the creek next week.  If it's a wet winter we are not going to do very much, as a steady rain raises the water so that it would wash out our sluices in no time.  In the meantime we will drift into the bank at the head of our old claim and see if the rich streak runs into the hill.  Our neighbors down the creek have all got pretty fair claims and are doing well.  Platt tells us that he and his partner have taken out over five thousand dollars since they started in and they have got considerable ground left.</p><P>Henry Shively was over to the cabin last night and brings the news that there is going to be a grand ball at Selby Flat Christmas Eve, and that the landlord of the hotel promises a turkey dinner on Christmas.  Henry says that the boys are betting that it will be turkey buzzard, as nobody ever heard of turkey in this country.  He wants me to come over to the dance, but I don't think I will.  The last ball I went to on the Flat I came away through the window instead of the door and it was altogether too lively for me.  Nevada is putting on airs lately.  The citizens are figuring on building a brick courthouse and the town has a weekly paper.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:It is not much of a newspaper, but we subscribed for a copy at twenty dollars a year to help it along.  There are about thirty families settled down there and the moral people have got up a petition requesting the storekeepers to close on Sundays.  That is asking too much, however, as everybody comes to town on that day to do the week's trading.</p><P>DECEMBER 21, 1851.</p><P>--It has rained more or less all the week and the water is so high in the creek that there is no chance to get our sluice boxes in place.  Our neighbor at the next cabin, "Silent Platt," as we call him, stuck a pick in his foot and has been laid up for a few days.  He's a queer stick in some ways, rarely goes to town or anywhere else except to his claim, and does but little talking; doesn't seem to be interested in anything.  That's why we call him "Silent Platt."  We were surprised Thursday when he came up to our cabin and spent the day and evening with us, and then we found out why he had become almost a hermit.  We made him feel at home and then he told his story.  It seems that he was foreman in a clock factory in New York, making a pretty good living, but not getting ahead very much, so when the California fever broke out he and his chum, who worked in the same shop, made up their minds to seek their fortune together.  He was married and had one baby, a little four-year-old girl, and he fixed it for his wife and child to live with his wife's mother on a farm she owned near Hartford, Connecticut.  He had saved about five hundred dollars and it took about all of this to outfit himself for the trip.  He joined a company of fifty adventurers that was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:formed in New York City, and instead of coming around the "Horn," as most of these associations did, the members planned to go to Texas and then overland until they reached California.  They chartered a bark to take them to Galveston and there outfitted for the journey.  Each member of the party bought two mules, one to ride and one to pack, together with grub and cooking utensils, and were even foolish enough to pack along picks and shovels and other useless truck, which, however, soon became burdensome and were thrown away.  A captain and other officers were selected, and it was agreed that they would all stand together until they reached Southern California.  They knew nothing about the country between Texas and California, except by vague report, as there was no road and no white man had ever traveled it, with the exception of a company of United States Dragoons, which had gone through in 1846.  They heard stories of long deserts, heat and hostile Indians, but they were all young and adventurous and had gone too far to turn back.  They got along all right until they had journeyed through the north of Western Texas, and then their hardships began.  From what Platt related, it seems that from there on until they reached this State the whole territory is nothing but a vast, hot, arid region with only here and there a patch of grass and a dried up river bed.  They had to make long marches under a burning sun to reach water and forage and, when found, lay for a week to recruit their animals.  They were ambushed twice by Indians, nine of the party were killed and two died from the effects of heat and too much mescal that was procured at various Mexican <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:villages.  At these places they managed to buy a small stock of corn and beans and finally fell in with the Pima tribe of Indians on the Gila River, who were more than friendly and did all that was possible to help and succor the party.  After staying with the tribe for ten days they pushed on for the Colorado River, two Indians going along as guides.  Here they had to build rafts to cross and swim the mules, and one of the party was drowned in crossing.  The next one hundred and fifty miles were the worst of the journey.  They were forced to travel nights, as the sun was too hot in the day time, and they found water in but two places.  On the morning of the second day Platt lost his partner.  They had not had a drop to drink for twenty-four hours, but were expecting to find a sink hole which the Indians had told them about, when his partner jumped off his mule and started to run into the desert.  He had gone clean crazy.  He ran about a mile when he fell and died in a fit.  The best they could do was to cover him with a little sand and leave him in his lonely grave.  Platt said that long before they saw any indication of water the mules, which had been barely crawling along, pricked up their ears and broke into a lope, and, sure enough, around the turn of a spur of the hills they came to a perfect little oasis, about half an acre of green grass and willow trees and a pool of fresh spring water, fifty feet across and four feet deep.  The mules were frantic and rushed into it with their packs and saddles on, drank their fill and then laid down and rolled over and over.  They had but little grub left, but they stayed there two days, in order to strengthen up the animals, as this was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:the first good feed they had had since leaving the Gila River.  Here they turned off into the San Jacinto mountains and rode seventy miles to Warner's ranch, where their troubles were over.  Platt says that Don Warner was the most hospitable man on earth.  The party stayed at the ranch a week, the men and the mules were given all that they could eat and drink, and at the end Warner refused to accept a cent for it.  From the ranch they went to Los Angeles, where the party broke up and scattered.  The trip consumed six months and eleven days from New York City to Los Angeles.<ANCHOR ID="n13-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1"><P>(NOTE.--In simple words, Jackson calls up a graphic picture of an overland journey in which the pioneers encountered hardships and adventures of sufficient interest to fill a volume, and it would be an historical contribution well worth having.  There is a striking coincidence corroborating fully Platt's narrative.  Singularly enough, the father of the compiler of this diary, a pioneer, was a member of this same party, and, as a boy, the writer has often listened to the relation of the incidents, hair-breadth escapes and sufferings of these pioneer gold hunters.  And what splendid courage it illustrates!  Plunging into a terra incognita, at that time less known than the interior of Africa, these Argonauts, with superb self-confidence and magnificent daring, allured by tales of the "Golden Fleece," undertook the journey with as little hesitation as a Native Son, nowadays, projects a Pullman car trip across the continent.  And of such mental and physical make-up were the majority of the "Forty-niners."</p><P>The compiler can add to Platts' story that the party did not break up at Los Angeles.  Two or three stayed in that town and Platt followed the coast to San Francisco.  The majority kept on, crossing into the San Joaquin Valley, through Tejon Pass, finally settling in Mariposa County, the first mining region reached from that direction.  What a sturdy lot of old boys they were, these typical American adventurers, and how little the present generation knows of or cares about them.)</p></NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>Here the sad part of Platt's story came in.  He was anxious to hear from home and knew that there should be letters for him at San Francisco.  He had written from Galveston and San Antonio, but, of course, nothing had reached him on the trip and he hurried on as fast as possible, eager to get the home news before striking for fortune at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>A SENSATION ON THE FLAT--THE MYSTERIOUS DISAPPEARANCE OF THE TURKEYS--THE NO--GOBBLER BETTERS WIN THEIR WAGERS--AN ANGRY LANDLORD--THE SALERATUS RANCH UNDER SUSPICION--JUST A PLAIN, EVERYDAY DINNER--THE RENDEZVOUS AND A FEAST DOWN THE CREEK--THE SWEETHEART DELAYS HER RETURN--THE JACKASS ESCAPES A SERENADE.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>DECEMBER 28, 1851.</p><P>--Selby Flat has had a sensation which has furnished the boys no end of fun.  There was no turkey dinner Christmas, that is, at the hotel, although the landlord swears that his birds furnished a private feed to somebody and he is vowing vengeance on those he suspects of depriving his boarders of a grand blowout.  The majority were skeptical as to there being any turkeys procurable and they backed their opinions with their money, while a few who were in the secret took all of the bets offered, knowing that the landlord had made arrangements a month previous with a peddler from the valley, who assured him that he was going to bring a load from a flock that had been raised on a ranch below Marysville and had agreed to deliver to him a dozen fat birds.  Sure enough, a week before Christmas, he arrived with six coops full--a hundred altogether; had no difficulty in selling them at from eight to ten dollars each, and the landlord got his dozen, as agreed.  Those who bet on a turkey dinner wanted to be paid their stakes then and there, but the wagers were on a Christmas feast and the stakeholders decided to wait until that day before giving up the money.  It was a sure thing, so no objection was made.  The birds were cooped up and stuffed with all they could eat, the landlord advertised the feed at two dollars and a half a head, and was rash enough to promise mince pie for dessert.  Two days before Christmas the dreadful word went around <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:that the turkeys had disappeared, and the Flat was all torn up over the news.  The landlord was frantic, but had no clue as to the thieves, although he, as well as everybody else around the Flat, suspected the Saleratus Ranch boys, they being usually at the bottom of any deviltry going on.  He even went so far as to demand that Pard, who is the deputy sheriff, should search their cabin, but Anderson declined unless a search warrant was sworn out, which the landlord, who had nothing to go on beyond his suspicions, could not very well do.  The women pronounced it a shame and the men said it would be unhealthy for the occupants of any cabin near which turkey feathers or bones might be found.</p><P>It was just a plain, ordinary dinner at the hotel, except for the mince pie, and was followed by a Christmas dance.  After the dinner the guests--about fifty of them--decided that they would pay a visit to the Saleratus Ranch and see what sort of holiday grub the boys were having.  If they expected to find turkey they were badly disappointed, for there was nothing in sight but the regular old pork and beans and boiled beef.  The ranch boys said that they had fully expected to eat a turkey dinner at the hotel, which, of course, was not to be had, so as they had their mouths made up for a taste of the bird, they were all going over to Nevada for supper, as turkey was plenty in that town, and, sure enough, about three o'clock they all started for that place.  After that nobody suspicioned them, and it was the general belief that some thieving Indian from the campoody, over the ridge, had robbed the turkey roost.  I was saddling up my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:horse to go into town when Charlie Barker came over to the creek and asked me and Pard to meet a lot of the boys down where Brush and Rock Creeks come together, about two miles below Selby Flat.  He was grinning and chuckling over some great joke and wouldn't let on what it was, but teased us to go with him to the rendezvous.  Pard suspected what was up and said that as an officer of the law he guessed he had better stay away, but just for curiosity I went along.  The cabin we were bound for was Jack Ristine and Carter's place.  The rest of the boys went up the road to Sugar Loaf, as if on the way to Nevada, but instead branched off down the ridge and hill, and when just before dark we reached the shanty, there were about twenty of them gathered there and, shameful to tell, the turkeys were there too.  It seems that all of those who had bet on there being no turkey dinner were in a plot.  They had stolen the birds, taken them down to the creek, killed and picked them, throwing the feathers into the running water, and then half a dozen, who were not suspected, had slipped away Christmas day and helped Ristine and Carter prepare the feast.  It was a bully good supper and I must say I enjoyed it.  The boys were full of fun, and as whiskey was more than plenty, they were soon full of that too.  They sang and told stories until about eleven o'clock, then gathered up the bones and remnants of the supper, dug a hole in the bank of the creek and buried the remains three feet deep.  They all stood around the hole, or grave, as they called it, bareheaded, while Arthur Brooks delivered a funeral oration over the "dear departed."  As they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:were getting uproarious I slipped away and came back home.  I told Pard about it and he laughed and said that the boys did not mean any harm but it was just a little rough on the landlord.</p><P>JANUARY 4, 1852.</p><P>--I had a disappointment for my New Year.  I have been expecting every day to hear that Marie got back to San Francisco, but instead I got a letter saying that unless I insisted on her coming at once she would wait a couple of months more before starting for America.  She was looking after her investments and visiting her people--she had a mother and two sisters living in Paris--and as she did not know when we would go back together, was staying longer than she planned.  The letter gave me a fit of the blues and I almost made up my mind to take a plunge, leave the country and go to Paris myself.  Pard hurt me by jokingly suggesting that some Frenchman had cut me out, and maybe he is right; but if that is true what would be the use of me making the journey for nothing.  I wrote her a long letter, telling her that I was in earnest, and if she intended to keep her promise she must come back without delay.</p><P>It doesn't look as if we were going to get into the creek very soon with our new mining scheme, as it keeps on raining just enough to raise the water to a flood level.  In the meantime we have got tired of loafing and have started to drift on our old claim.  It is not paying very big.  The streak of pay dirt is only about two feet wide and a foot deep.  We have to shore up the ground with timber and it takes us a lot of our time cutting it.  We drifted about eight feet last week and took out eleven ounces.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>Our jackass is getting to be a nuisance and is almost as much of a pet as Jack, although we don't let him sleep in the cabin, a liberty which, judging by his actions, he seems to think should be allowed him as well as the dog.  He gives us a concert in the early morning that wakes up the woods; follows at our heels to the claim; when we visit our neighbors, trots along as if social duties were in his line, and "he-haws" and brays whenever we are out of sight.  Pard says that with the exception that he is too fat, he has all the symptoms of being in love.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>STRANGE DISAPPEARANCE OF CARTER AND RISTINE--A DESERTED SHANTY--RISTINE'S DEATH--REVELATIONS AT THE INQUEST--WHO STOLE THE TURKEYS?--A RICH STREAK ON THE BEDROCK--PARD BARS THE BANJO--HETTY HAS A CHANGE OF HEART--THE INTERIOR OF A MINER'S CABIN--A SENTIMENTAL PICTURE--FRIENDSHIP, PROSPERITY, AND CONTENTMENT.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>JANUARY 11, 1852.</p><P>--The country is stirred up over a mysterious tragedy that nobody seems able to solve.  Neither Ristine nor Carter, the two miners at whose cabin we ate our Christmas supper, have been seen by anybody since that night.  No attention would have been paid to this, as the boys do not keep track of each other to any extent, had it not been that Sunday, a week ago, Henry Shively went down to their place to pay them a visit.  He found the door of the cabin open, and no sign of the men around.  This would not have seemed strange had not the inside of the shanty looked as if no one had been there for a week.  The fire was dead in the fireplace and a pot of beans that hung on the hook had been there for days, as the contents were sour and mouldy.  The flour sack had been gnawed open in places and flour was scattered over the floor--no doubt the work of coyotes and mountain rats.  Nothing else seemed to have been disturbed.  Shively went down to their claim, which was close by, and found their Tom and tools in place, the picks and shovels and the Tom iron were rusty, proving that they had not worked in the mine for a week or more.  Thinking itqueer he concluded to come up and tell Pard the circumstances, which he did, meeting Anderson on the trail coming back from town.  Pard turned back and went with him to their cabin, taking Platt along.  They found everything as Shively had told them, noted that the best clothes were hanging over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:their beds, a shotgun and rifle on pegs over the fireplace, and a six-shooter under one of the pillows.  On a little shelf by the window, where the gold scales stood, there was a yeast powder can with about five ounces of gold in it.  It was certain from the looks of things that the men had no intention of leaving, and it was also sure that they had not been near their cabin or their claim for a week or ten days.  Pard came home and told me about it and next morning early we rode down to Selby Flat to see if anything had turned up to explain the mystery.  Nobody there had seen anything of the missing men since Christmas.  After talking it over it was agreed that a delegation should go over to Nevada and find out if they had been there, or had left by any of the stage lines, while about twenty of us formed a searching party to look the country over in the vicinity of the cabin.  In the middle of the forenoon we heard some of the boys shouting up on the hill and, on going to them, found out that they had discovered Ristine's body under a manzanita bush.  It was in bad shape and the coyotes had torn off both arms, but the face was not touched.  A watch was left, the coroner notified, and that afternoon an inquest was held.  Outside of the fact that Ristine was dead, nothing was developed and the jury returned a verdict of "died from unknown causes."  Then a thorough search of the cabin was made and inside of the mattresses a big buckskin purse was found, which contained about eight hundred dollars in dust.  In a box under the other bunk there were three yeast powder cans that were full to the top with gold.  We buried Ristine close to where we found his body and it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:was a sickening job.  From letters in the box it was learned that both men were married.  One came from Reading and the other from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.  There is no suspicion of robbery, for there was nothing stolen, and it doesn't look like murder, for if one had killed the other the murderer would certainly have hidden the traces of his crime and not have left the gold dust behind if he intended to quit the country.  The general opinion is that Carter is dead and that his remains will be found somewhere around.</p><P>Even a tragedy generally has its funny side.  At the inquest it all came out about the turkey supper, and now the landlord says he will sue the crowd for damages, prosecute them for petty larceny, and the sinners are wondering if he will carry out his threat.</p><P>We worked in the drift the rest of the week, but it is not panning out very well.  We cleaned up seven ounces, but that is more than grub money, and we will stay with it until we can get into the creek.  I bought a banjo when I was over in town Tuesday and am learning to pick it.  Pard says that as a nuisance it is a toss up between me and the jackass.</p><P>JANUARY 18, 1852.</p><P>--It rained, snowed, and has been disagreeable weather all week.  The drift is slow work, as it takes about half the time to cut timbers and put them in place.  Timbering is not a greenhorn's job and we made a poor fist at it until we went over to Coyoteville and took notes of the drift mines there.  We struck a rich little streak in the tunnel, not more than three inches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:wide and right on the bedrock.  It looked as if it had been poured out of a bag, it was so regular.  We panned it out and as far as we followed it we got an ounce to the pan.  Altogether, we took out over twenty ounces.  That is like old times.</p><P>Pard struck a bargain with me.  If I would agree not to practice on the banjo when he was around--I don't see why he don't like it for I can already play "Old Bob Ridley" and "Camptown Girls" pretty well--he would read aloud to me a new novel that he had bought: "Nicholas Nickleby," by an Englishman named Dickens.  I had already read his "Pickwick Papers" and it was a great book, so I agreed and the consequence has been that we have not gone to bed a night this week before midnight.  Some of the chapters are very funny and some pathetic, but it is all interesting.  I am not very sentimental, but as I stretched out on the bunk listening, the big drops of rain pattering on the roof, the wind whistling through the trees and the firelight flashing on Pard's handsome face, I thought this was a pretty good old world after all, and I was lucky to be in it.  Pard's voice was like a lullaby and I got to thinking of Marie and dreaming of the future.  Perhaps some day I might see London and Yorkshire and follow D'Artagnan's road through France.  Then Pard shut the book with a slam and said I was a lunkhead and he would not read any more to such an unappreciative fellow.  He did not know what dream pictures I was conjuring up.</p><P>There have been no more discoveries about Ristine and Carter and it seems as if it would always be a mystery.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>JANUARY 25, 1852.</p><P>--It turned out cold and there has been a big snowstorm.  The whole country is covered with snow three feet deep.  It was a pretty sight, the spruce and fir trees loaded with snow, and when the sun comes out they sparkle like diamonds.  It put me in mind of the hemlock woods in old Litchfield.</p><P>I got a long letter from Hetty, the first she has written in months, and now I am up a tree.  She says that when the news came to her of her brother's death she was nearly crazy with grief and did not realize how harsh a letter she had sent to me.  Now she is sorry for it, admits that she has been unjust and if I will forgive her we will forget all about it and be the same to each other that we were before it happened.  I wish she had not changed her mind, for I do not have the liking for her that I did when I started for California.  Marie is in my mind all day, I dream of her nights and I never can go back to my boyish love.  I have not shown Pard the letter yet, and don't think I will.  Somehow I am getting so that I do not like to have him ridicule me.  In a great many ways I am a different man than I was when I left the States.  I thought I was a pretty smart fellow around the old neighborhood, and was chock full of conceit.  Now I can look back and see what a greenhorn I was in many respects.  I had a fair schooling, for beside the district school house I went three terms to the academy.  After that I worked on the farm steadily until I started for California.  The farthest I was ever away from home up to that time was to Litchfield, the county seat, sixteen miles.  I never read anything but the New York Tribune and the Litchfield <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Inquirer, two papers that dad subscribed for.  Mother was dead set against novels and the only books we had in the house were "Pilgrim's Progress," "Fox's Book of Martyrs," "Pollock's Course of Time," "Young's Night Thoughts," "Calvin's Institutes of the Christian Religion," "Jonathan Edwards' Sermons," and the Bible, of course.  That was pretty dry stuff and I did not take to it.  I knew less about the world than I did about Heaven, for, from what I could hear, I had an idea that New York was the biggest city on earth.  I knew better, but that was my narrow way of thinking.  Pard drew a diagram, which he said expressed my mental and geographical ideas, as follows, and I guess he was right:</p><illus entity="a069-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Norfolk<HSEP>United States<HSEP>The World</p></CAPTION>
069.sgm:<P>Well, I have outgrown that, and while I don't set up for a traveler, or claim much experience, I certainly see everything in a different light.  Our old cabin is not much to look at outside or inside; dad wouldn't keep his hogs in such a place, yet one could not be more comfortable or more contented than I have been for the past year.  I have been lonesome at times and have had blue spells, but they did not last very long.  There is nothing but a dirt floor, which we wet down every day to keep it hard, a couple of bunks filled with pine needles where we roll up in our blankets and on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:which we sleep like logs; three-legged stools for seats; a plank for a table; an open fireplace five feet wide; an iron kettle and a coffee pot; a Dutch oven and a frying pan to cook in; it used to be tin plates and cups until we got high-toned and bought crockery; grub stored away most anywhere; a shelf full of books--we have bought about fifty volumes altogether--and that is about all.  We put a big oak-back log in the fireplace, pile up big chunks in front and the wind can howl, the snow fall and the rain beat on the roof, what do we care?  The flames leap up the chimney and light the old cabin, the dog stretches out in front of the fire and grunts with contentment or dreams, for often his legs twitch, he whimpers and barks softly, his eyes closed, then wakes up, looks at us in a foolish way until he realizes his surroundings, and goes to sleep again.  Pard grows sentimental and quotes poetry and gets down a book, reads a chapter or two and we are off in our minds to England, France, or Spain (we are reading Irving's "History of Granada").  Then we turn into our bunks, the fire dies down to coals, and as they sputter and sparkle I lie and watch the glow and see all sorts of pictures until my eyelids grow heavy, and I don't know anything more until I get a dig in the ribs and Pard says: "Get up, you lazy whelp, and help get breakfast."</p><P>I suppose we are contented because there is nobody to boss us--"Not even a woman," puts in Pard--have money enough so that we need not live this way if we don't want to, no scandal, no gossip, and nobody to criticise us as long as we keep off of other people's corns, a jolly good lot of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:neighbors who live as we do, and our friendship, which is the thing that counts more than all the rest.  Naturally, I don't want to live this way forever and we have our plans for the future; but in the meantime and until things ripen, we are satisfied with the old cabin.<ANCHOR ID="n15-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1">(NOTE.--Jackson draws a graphic sketch of the miner's life and touches partially on its fascination.  Of course he had his plans for the future; they all had, but in many cases the plans bore no fruition, and the footbills held them to the end.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>The snow is so deep that it is difficult to cut timber and we did little work during the week.  The rich streak held on for about four feet, and from that and the rest of the gravel we made seventeen and one-half ounces.  It has rained or snowed steadily for almost two weeks.  We bought a couple of pairs of rubber boots and two tarpaulin coats to tramp between the cabin and the claim.  Luckily, we had laid in enough grub to last a month; there is plenty of hay for the horses and the jackass, and they are as fat as butter, so none of us are suffering any hardships.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>THE RAGING YUBA--A VISIT TO THE RIVER--BAD CASE OF JIM-JAMS--A SWARM OF TIN-JACKETED IMPS--SUNDAY IN NEVADA--FOOD FAMINE IN THE MINING CAMPS--RATTLESNAKE DICK SHOOTS UP THE TOWN--A QUARTZ-MINING SPECULATION AND ITS FAILURE.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>FEBRUARY 1, 1852.</p><P>--We had a glimpse or two of the sun last week; but it rained most of the time, carrying off the snow with it.  I rode down to the Yuba River yesterday afternoon and it was a sight to see.  The river is more than bank full, all of ten feet deep, and a madder, wilder rush of water was never seen.  I could hear the great rocks grinding and crushing against each other as they rolled over and over, big logs and pine trees swirling down the stream or tumbling end over end as they butted against some obstruction, and the noise was deafening.  It was a grand sight and did not look much like the place where we mined last fall.</p><P>We very nearly had another tragedy on the creek early in the past week.  Andy Collins, an Irishman, who has lived alone in his cabin, about a mile below us, for a year or more, has been a hard drinker ever since we have known him.  He bought his rum by the gallon and kept soaked all the time.  Tuesday night he had a bad attack of the jim-jams, and his nearest neighbor, O'Neil, heard him yelling and shrieking like all possessed.  He rushed down, opened the door and found Collins cowering in one corner, striking at imaginary swarms of imps in the air.  "Don't you see them?" he yelled; "little devils with tin jackets on.  Look at them coming down the chimney and through the window, hundreds of 'em!"  With that he rushed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:through the door, out into the rain and darkness, and O'neil lost sight of him.  He at once roused everybody up and down the creek, but we might as well have looked for a needle in a hay mow.  We kept up the search until one or two o'clock and then quit until daylight.  The general opinion was that he had jumped into the creek and had been drowned, as there was four feet of water in it, and running like a mill race.  He was not born to be drowned, for we found him next day over on Round Mountain, nearly dead with exposure and cold.  It was a job to pack him back, as we had to make a litter to carry him.  We got him into his cabin, warmed him up, and when he came to, dosed him with strong tea.  He was in his right senses, too, and had forgotten all about his little tin devils.  Now we have got to nurse him and sit up with him nights until he gets on his legs again.  No whiskey for me.  We have never had a drop in the cabin since we have lived here.</p><P>It has been a poor week on the claim.  While there is plenty of gravel, it is almost barren.  All we got for our week's work was a little over an ounce.  That isn't even grub wages.  Still, we are not as unlucky as we might be.</p><P>Anderson received a letter from Perry, our agent, saying that he could sell out our holdings, including North Beach, at an advance of twenty-two thousand dollars.  It was a tempting price to me, as I would get in all, with what I put in, over ten thousand dollars.  Pard said, "No, let's hold on until we clean up fifty thousand dollars."  I think he is making a mistake, but I am bound to stay with him, and trust to his judgment.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>FEBRUARY 8, 1852.</p><P>--I spent the day over in Nevada.  It is getting to be quite a big town.  What a contrast it is to our poky, slow New England villages.  There are half a dozen stores which carry all kinds of provisions and hardware, two jewelry shops, two bakeries, a gunsmith store, butcher shop, five hotels, and gin mills too numerous to mention.  Saturday night and Sundays--I forgot, one church--are the lively days.  Then there are two or three thousand miners in town, the majority drinking, gambling and carousing.  Woolen shirts and duck overalls are the fashion, and if you see anybody dressed up it's a sure thing he is either a gambler or a lawyer.  What beats me is the craze the miners have for gambling.  Every saloon has some sort of game running, and the big ones have a dozen.  "Monte," "Red and Black," "Chuck-a-luck," "Twenty-one," "Rondo," and "Fortune Wheels" are the banking games, and they play poker and "Brag" for big stakes.  The fool miners work hard all the week and then lose their dust at these games of chance.  There does not seem to be much chance about them, for nobody ever heard of a miner winning anything.  Of course, the miners don't all gamble; in fact, a lot of them do their trading, get a square meal at the hotel, and go back to their claims.  Still, enough waste their money to keep the sports slick and fat.  I suppose they are looking for excitement--anything to break the monotony--and this is the way they get it.</p><P>Charley Donaldson, who had a rich claim on Brush Creek, worked it out last fall and left for the States with six or seven thousand dollars.  In a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:couple of weeks he was back again hunting for new diggings, and it leaked out afterward that he lost every cent in a Frisco gambling hell.  I have never tried my luck but once, and then I lost seventy dollars in half an hour.  I don't regret it, though, for then it was when I met Marie and it was more than worth the price.</p><P>It looks as if it were going to be as wet a season as Forty-nine.  It has rained or snowed almost every day for a month.  Teaming has quit and the stages don't make regular trips.  Provisions have jumped up to double prices.  Flour is scarce and the storekeepers are asking thirty dollars for a hundred pound sack.  Last winter they all put in big stocks.  It was a dry season and they lost money.  This year they thought they could team the same as last and did not lay in heavy supplies, and, as a consequence, if the rains don't let up, there is a prospect of a famine.  I am told that there are eight big team outfits loaded with flour, stuck in the mud, between here and Sacramento.  Rattlesnake Dick, a sport and a desperado from Auburn, was chased out of town last week.  He shot up a fandango house, held up a monte bank and then abused Stanton Buckner like a pickpocket, making the old fellow go down on his knees and beg for his life.  About this time the citizens began to gather with shotguns and Dick took to his horse and struck out for some other camp.  Buckner is a nice old fellow, a lawyer, prides himself on his Kentucky breeding, and swears that nothing but blood will wipe out the insult.  I guess he won't hunt Dick very far.</p><P>A prospector found what is supposed to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Carter's hat and coat down in Myers Ravine.  Outside of that there have been no developments.  Some think that Carter is still alive and has left the country, but the majority believe he is dead.  It is a strange affair.</p><P>We worked a little in the tunnel and found nothing worth while.  The weather is too bad to do any prospecting and there is no telling when we can get into the creek.  Mining is almost suspended, except where they are drifting and coyoting.  At Grass Valley they are working several big quartz veins and it is said that they are very rich.  At the Rocky Bar claim over seventy-five thousand dollars have been taken out in the last four months.  They have found two or three quartz veins along Deer Creek that pay pretty well, working them by the Mexican arrastra process.  A scientific cuss in Nevada has formed a company to get the gold out of the quartz by a new method and is selling shares like hot cakes at ten dollars a share.  He is going to build a furnace and melt the gold out of the rock.  It may be all right, but I don't know anything about quartz mines and have not bought any stock.  I hear, as a rule, miners have fought shy of the investment, as the majority are skeptical and don't believe in any new-fangled process for getting gold out of rocks, but the business men don't feel that way.  I am told that the merchants, lawyers and a great many sporting men have put money into the scheme and the inventor has raised about forty thousand dollars.  He is grading off a site for his furnace on Deer Creek, opposite the town, has sent below for fire-bricks and machinery, and is burning a kiln of charcoal for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:fuel.  His idea is to raise a sufficient heat in the furnace to melt the rocks, run it off at a spout, contending that the gold, being so much heavier, will sink to the bottom and can then be taken out pure and solid.  It is all right in theory, but I have not much faith in its success.  To hear the investors talk, however, you would think they were already millionaires.<ANCHOR ID="n16-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1">(Note.--It did not work.  He could not separate the gold from the slag and the forty thousand dollars was a clear loss.)</NOTE></DIV>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>A FORMIDABLE INDICTMENT OF THE TURKEY THIEVES--AN OLD-TIME LEGAL DOCUMENT--HALED INTO COURT--THE TRIAL, THE VERDICT, AND THE PENALTY--A SAFETY VALVE FOR THE WILD SPIRITS--THE JACKASS NOT FOR SALE--PARD'S TENDER HEART--HIS CONSIDERATION FOR BIRD AND BEAST AND AFFECTION FOR HIS CABIN-MATE--THE DONKEY'S CORRECT PRINCIPLES.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>FEBRUARY 15, 1852.</p><P>--The boys over on Selby Flat are having a bushel of fun in these slack times.  When the inquest was held on Jack Ristine, it leaked out that there had been a turkey supper at his cabin.  Two or three of the witnesses, who were on oath, gave it away under pressure, and the landlord, who has not yet got over being mad, applied to the justice of the peace for warrants for as many of those as he learned were at the feast.  As he could not swear as to who stole the birds, he wanted them arrested as accessories to the crime.  The judge refused to issue the warrants and the miners got hot and leagued together to quit patronizing both the hotel and barroom.  This brought him to his senses, he apologized and agreed to drop the matter.  It gave the boys a hunch, especially those who had lost their bets, and for deviltry they called a miners' court, preferred charges against the lucky ones who had won their money, on the theory that they must have had guilty knowledge of the larceny or else they would not have been so anxious to bet.  The charges were drawn up in mock legal form and were as full of "whereases," "whereins," "aforesaids" and "be it knowns" as a lawyer's brief.  As I recall the document, it runs about as follows:</p><P>"Whereas, Before, on, about, or preceding Christmas Day, some party or parties unknown to the complainants, but by strong and corroborative <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:circumstantial evidence, suspected to be [here followed about twenty names, including my own and my Saleratus Ranch friends], and</p><P>"Whereas, We believe these aforesaid named parties did feloniously, surreptitiously, not having the peace and dignity of Selby Flat, its hitherto untarnished and unstained name and reputation at heart, enter, break into and force open a certain coop known to have contained one dozen gobblers, and did abstract, take away, carry off and levant with the said birds, the aforesaid turkeys, being the property of the proprietor of the Selby Flat Hotel, and</p><P>"Whereas, Said gobblers having been provided, bought and procured for the delectation, comfort, sustenance and happiness of your petitioners, it being understood, agreed and promulgated that the aforesaid and before-named birds were to be roasted, stuffed, cooked, garnished and served to the denizens of Selby Flat, a town situated and being in and about Brush Creek, Nevada County, State of California, U. S. A., irrespective of previous condition, sex, or color, at the rate of two dollars and fifty cents per capita, with mince pie and fixings thrown in, and</p><P>"Whereas, Said felonious abstraction wrought upon your petitioners great mental and physical anguish, disturbing their peace of mind as well as the dignity of Selby Flat, and</p><P>"Whereas, The above-named and aforesaid parties did, contrary to the Statutes of the Commonwealth (See Randall on non sequitur, vol. IV, page 32), enter into a conspiracy, based, founded upon and made possible by their guilty knowledge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:of the intended forcible and felonious abstraction of the previously mentioned gobblers, wheedle, entreat and coax innocent bystanders, to wit, your petitioners, to wager, hazard, and bet certain sums of money in regard to the presence of the aforesaid turkeys at a Christmas dinner, and</p><P>"Whereas, It is a well known and deep founded principle of common law, as well as an obiter dicta, in all well regulated sporting circles, that no man can take advantage of or profit by betting on a dead sure thing;</p><P>"Therefore, your petitioners respectfully pray this court, taking into consideration the heinousness and enormity of the offense, to adjudge the aforesaid and before-named parties of the first part guilty of foul murder, and that if the court and jury be inclined to mercy and should hesitate to impose capital punishment, that the least penalty to be meted out to these outlaws and disturbers of their neighbors' turkey roosts be the return to your innocent and defrauded petitioners of the monies they were induced to put up, chance, and risk on a game where the cards were stacked `agin'em.'"</p><P>There was a lot more to it which I can't remember, and it was a gay afternoon consumed in taking testimony, swearing witnesses and making mock speeches.  It was nearly dark before the trial was finished and the case submitted to the jury, which brought in a verdict without quitting their seats, of "Rape in the first degree."  The sentence was drinks ad libitum for the town, and the landlord got even as the crowd patronized his bar with a free hand and purse.</p><P>After I went home and got to thinking it over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:it all seemed childish and foolish, but Pard differed with me.  He argued that the lives we led were dismal enough and that anything that would break the monotony and furnish amusement was a safety valve.  I guess he is right, for, nonsensical as it was, I enjoyed it as much as any of them.  After all, there was a damper to it, for even at our wildest we could not help thinking of the mysterious fate of Ristine and Carter, and that the last we ever saw of them was when we were eating supper in their cabin.</p><P>FEBRUARY 22, 1852.</p><P>--It has been fairly pleasant all the week, but we have done very little, as the water is still up in the creek and the drift is played out.  Pard thinks he will make a trip to the Bay, and wants me to go along, but I don't feel like it just yet.  We are both tired of loafing, and I think we would pull up and leave if we had not set our minds on working Rock Creek.  We have our interests in our river claims, but we can't get into them before next August, at the earliest, and as our partners are willing to buy our shares, I think we will sell out to them.  We have a fourth interest, and have been offered six thousand dollars for it by outsiders.</p><P>I have not answered Hetty's letter yet.  It is a puzzle what to say to her.  If she had not broken the engagement I should feel bound to stick, even if my feelings have changed, but she cannot expect to play fast and loose with me.  To be honest, I love Marie more than any other woman on earth, and if she comes back and is in the same mind as when she went away, the chances are that we will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:make the match.  The only hesitation I have is as to what the old folks will say, but I will take her back to them, and Marie is sure to win them over.</p><P>Pard is always growling about the jackass disturbing his rest and making him look foolish by trotting around after him like a dog, so I proposed, as we had no particular use for him, that we sell him.  Gracious! he flared up and wanted to know if he did not have a right to associate with a jackass of his own choice, when I was running with a dozen or more.  This was a fling at the crowd over at Selby Flat.  I have been going over there two or three nights in a week not thinking that I was leaving Pard alone or that he cared much for my company.  If it had not been for the twinkle in his eye I would have snapped back, but I saw he was not in earnest, so I replied if the beast and I were not enough jackasses for him he was welcome to get more.  He said that he would acknowledge that the jack didn't have a very tuneful voice and his song was not as melodious as that of some of the birds but he preferred his note to that of the blue jay, and insisted that he was an animal of good principles.  He did not associate with bad company, drink whiskey, or break any of the commandments, and if he, the donkey, was jackass enough to put trust in a man he was not going to abuse it.  "The fact is, Alf," he said, "Jack' [that's the dog] and he are great comforts to me.  I have told them in confidence all about my past life and it doesn't seem to have lowered me in their opinion a bit.  Under the circumstances I can't go back on either of them."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>Pard is a queer stick.  When I think it over I have never known him to kill animal, bird, or reptile, with the exception of the rattlesnake that struck at me on the trail, nor have I ever heard him say an unkind word of a living soul.  He has been a big brother to me, and I can look back and see how happy we have been together, but still he insists that the obligation is on his side.  The only thing in the future that troubles me is the possibility that our partnership will break up when we leave here.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>JACKSON VISITS THE NEIGHBORING MINING CAMPS--POCKET-HUNTING AT ROUGH AND READY--A PUZZLE FOR THE THEORISTS--A SECTION OF A DEAD RIVER--SPECULATION ON THE GENESIS OF GOLD--THE OLD-TIMER'S DICTUM--FIRST VISIT TO THE THEATER--PARD RETURNS FROM SAN FRANCISCO--A PROFITABLE INVESTMENT--JACKSON DECIDES TO MARRY HIS FRENCH SWEETHEART.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>FEBRUARY 29, 1852.</p><P>--Pard left for San Francisco Monday, and I have been wandering over the country all the week.  I rode over to Rough and Ready Tuesday and found a lively camp.  The diggings have been very rich all around it and they have found on the ridge, near Randolph Flat, claims that have paid big.  A peculiarity is the number of rich pockets that have been struck.  A miner named Axtell uncovered one two weeks ago, from which he has taken out fourteen thousand dollars, and there have been any number that yielded from five hundred to five thousand dollars.  There are miners who follow pocket mining exclusively, and there certainly is a fascination to it.  They will work for weeks without making grub and then come across a pocket from which they will take out hundreds or thousands.  As one of them said to me:  "It's like playing a number on `Red and Black.'  You may make a hundred bets without winning a cent, but when it does come up you get a hundred for one."  I guess we all like to gamble.  There is a place below Nevada City that is like Rough and Ready in the way of deposits, and that is Red Hill.  I am told that they find the gold there in little narrow clay streaks and when they discover one it is sure to be rich.  It's a peculiar sort of gold, not nuggets or ordinary dust, but flaky and in thin leaves, and so light that a yeast powder can full will not weigh more than four or five ounces.  It has been a puzzle to the mining sharps, as it knocks out all theories <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:of gold coming down from the high mountains or out of the quartz veins exclusively.  No one can, after seeing these flakes of gold, sometimes two inches square and as thin as a wafer, stuck in the clay, dispute that it grew there.  And here is another puzzle.  I was over to Red Dog Wednesday and stayed there all night.  The miners told me that for a couple of years mining there was about the same as around Nevada.  Greenhorn Creek and the gulches and ravines were rich, but were all worked out.  Last fall they ran into blue gravel cemented, which had paid well, and they are working along this streak for three miles or more.  The queer thing is that the majority believe that their claims are in the bed of an old river, and to prove it they say that the bed-rock rises on both sides of a well defined channel, that all of the rocks and boulders are smooth and water-worn, and that they find petrified logs and impressions of leaves that floated down the stream when it was running.</p><P>This may all be, but how did it come that there are two hundred feet of clay (lava) on top, and how is it that a river could run up on the side of a mountain?</p><P>At the hotel that night there was a lot of discussion and argument as to how the gold came there, but none of them was very convincing.  An old fellow said to me: "Never mind these scientific cusses.  I'll give you the right one.  Gold is just where you find it and you are as likely to come across it in one place as another."  The next day I crossed over the trail to Grass Valley and had a look at the quartz mines.  There is something that upsets all of our notions.  In two or three places <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:they have followed these veins of white, glassy rock down into the bed-rock for seventy-five feet and they don't seem to pinch out.  I did not find anybody to explain how gold got inside this hard rock, and I guess nobody knows.  I saw on my way home that in the valley where we had the bear and jackass fight, the timber had been cut off, a race track laid out, and on Sunday night there is to be a quarter of a mile dash for two thousand dollars, between "Wake Up Jack"--a horse that belongs to the Nevada postmaster--and "Come Along Johnny"--a Marysville horse.  I have never seen a race horse and believe that I will ride over to it.  I'm getting to be real sporty.  They built a theater in Nevada, down over Deer Creek, and a company from Sacramento has been playing there all the week.  I had never been to a play, so Friday night I went over and took it in.  They played a piece called "The Stranger," and at first I could not see where the enjoyment came in.  It was so ridiculous to see a lot of people upon a raised platform making believe something was happening that was real, when anybody in his right senses knew better, but before I realized it I was that interested in Mrs. Waller's troubles [what old-time theatre-goer does not recall the weepy Mrs. Waller?] that I forgot where I was, that these were only play actors, and the tears rolled down my checks over the heroine's trials and sufferings.  It came out all right and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:I must admit that the performance was worth the money.<ANCHOR ID="n18-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-1">(NOTE.--Jackson touches on a subject that in pioneer days furnished matter for elaborate discussion.  The geologist and expert had not invaded the field at that time and in the early "Fifties" there were many theories, absurd and otherwise, as to the genesis of the gold deposits.  The one generally accepted was that which attributed its origin to a huge vein or deposit high up in the mountains and this ignis fatuus lured many to long, weary and fruitless searches.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>Had a letter from Marie, which makes me feel a lot better.  She says that she will surely come back in a month or two and that I must remember that the only reason for her return is to see me, as what little money she has invested in San Francisco would not be sufficient inducement for her to make a long, tiresome voyage.  The letter was written the latter part of January, and it may be possible that she is now on her way.  I have fully made up my mind that if she wants me she can have me, no matter what anybody thinks about it.</p><P>MARCH 7, 1852.</p><P>--Pard got back from the Bay Monday night and came straight over to the cabin.  We have done nothing during the week but talk over our own affairs and plan for the future.  He says San Francisco, in his opinion, is bound to be a large city, and that, even if the gold is all dug out of the country, it has resources enough to get along without it.  We can clean up a profit of twenty-four thousand dollars on our land investments, but he is not going to sell out at that figure.  If I don't want to stay he will give me fourteen thousand dollars for what I have put in, which includes principal and profits.  That makes me worth over twenty thousand dollars, but I am not going to accept his offer for a while yet.  We are both tired of the hard work and the hard fare of a miner's life.  It was different when we were taking out of our claim forty or fifty ounces a week; but it is worked out, and, outside of our interest in the river claims and our project to wash over Rock Creek, there is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:nothing ahead.  Pard says that his wife has agreed to join him in the spring, and would come at once if he would say the word.  He has made up his mind, however, to brush up a little on the law (he brought a lot of law books back with him), and the old cabin is just the place to do his reading.  Then in the spring he will go to San Francisco, provide a home for his wife and open an office.  There is plenty of litigation, principally over the Spanish land grants and titles, and he is confident that he can work up a good practice.  He has enough to live on now without touching his wife's money, so that that trouble cannot come between them again.  Now he can see that he was unreasonable, and the greater part of the fault was on his side in asking her to live a poor man's life when she had plenty of money of her own, and was not brought up that way.  He wants me to go along, and says that I can study law with him, but frankly tells me that he doesn't believe I will ever make a good lawyer, not that I have not got brains enough, but he doesn't think I have a legal mind or inclination.  That is true.  I never had any hankering to be a lawyer, doctor, or preacher.</p><P>On my side, I made a clean breast of it and confessed that there was an understanding between Madame Ferrand and myself, and when she came back from France we would visit the old folks together and then get married, but that neither she nor I had any idea of settling down in my old home.  Pard said that it was that sort of a situation that any advice from him would be impertinent.  He was most favorably impressed with the madame, if she returned it was proof of a sincere attachment, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:that she was capable of a great, unreasoning love.  It was not my money that she was after, for she had more than I.  Beside, she was taking as many chances as I was.  I showed him Hetty's last letter, and he said it was up to me to decide, although he knew without me telling him what the decision would be.  If I had not come to California and had lived my life out on the farm, Hetty would have been the right sort of a helpmeet, but I had got out of the leading strings and would never be contented to fall back into that old rut.  Not that I was not unsophisticated and anything but worldly wise, still I had grown too big for the Litchfield hills.  Then he got sarcastic and remarked that, anyway, the woman I married would boss me, and that the madame would probably make the yoke easier than the little Puritan.  All he asked was that after I had seen a little of the world I would come back to San Francisco, where we could be together, and he would keep us both straight.  Dear old boy!  He does not like the idea of our parting, and neither do I.  Well, our talk settled it.  We will stay here until spring, not bothering to work very much, and then leave to carry out our plans.</p><P>I went over to the race at Hughes' track this afternoon.  There was a big crowd and a lot of excitement and reckless betting.  There were a half dozen Marysville sports on hand and they backed their horse without stint.  "Wake Up Jack," the Nevada horse, won the race by ten feet in a distance of a quarter of a mile, and they say the home gamblers were ahead more than twenty thousand dollars.  Just for fun, I ventured a hundred dollars on "Wake Up Jack," and gained that much.  I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:said nothing to Pard about it, as he would surely give me a lecture on the folly of it.  I note one thing, whenever I am around where gambling is going on I have an inclination to join in and I can now understand why so many miners are inveterate gamblers.  The best way is to keep away from it and out of temptation.</p><P>The remains of Carter's body were found last week near the head of Myers Ravine, about a mile from his cabin.  There was nothing but the skull bones, gnawed clean, and his shirt, overalls and boots; but the hair was the same color, and in the pocket of the overalls there were a knife, pipe and tobacco pouch that were known to have belonged to him.  No sort of theory as to their deaths fits the case.  It was not robbery.  If it had been a quarrel and they had killed each other, their bodies would not have been found a mile apart.  So far as known, they lived on the best of terms, and they were good fellows who had no enemies.  It is not likely that both went crazy and wandered off to die.  Some think that they may have accidentally poisoned themselves; but it is all guesswork and a great mystery.<ANCHOR ID="n18-2">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-2">(NOTE.--It may be added that it was a mystery that was never solved, and in those stirring times, when incident followed incident so rapidly, the memory of it soon faded from men's minds.)</NOTE></DIV>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>PARD BRUSHES UP IN HIS PROFESSION--NO DEFERENCE PAID TO WEALTH--HOW FORTUNE FAVORED JENKINS--WHEN YOU HAVE GOT THE LUCK, IT'S WITH YOU FROM START TO FINISH--JIM VINEYARD'S HARD STREAK--A MOVING TALE OF A MISSED OPPORTUNITY--ONE MAN'S LOSS ANOTHER MAN'S GAIN--TROUSERS POCKETS VS. MONEY BELT.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>MARCH 14, 1852.</p><P>--When we thought the rain over and a few weeks of good weather due, it began to storm again, and it is now worse than ever.  My companion does not mind it, as he has settled down to studying his law books, and the rain is an excuse not to buckle to hard work again.  In fact, if we carry out our project to work Rock Creek, he proposes to hire a substitute, as he pretends to be rusty in his profession and needs all the time he will have to spare to brush up before we go to San Francisco.  I have no profession to study up and the hours hang heavy on my hands.  I have written the old folks that I will be home early in the summer, and they are delighted.  So am I, with the exception that I am not certain exactly how they are going to take to Marie.  A foreigner and a Papist--what a shock that will be to mother, saying nothing about the gossip of my boyhood friends and neighbors.  I will trust Marie to win her way with the old folks, and don't care a snap of my finger about the rest of them.  On the other hand, what a big man I will be back there, returned from California with a sack full of gold, and the richest man in the village, with the exception of old Squire Battell!  What little difference it makes to us here whether a man has money or not.  I know half a dozen men on Selby Hill who have taken out in the past year anywhere from forty thousand to sixty thousand apiece, and a dozen more who have made still more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:than that from mining ground on Gold Flat, Coyoteville and Manzanita Hill.  They don't put on any airs and nobody envies them.  We don't ask what a man is worth or how much he has got.  The only question is, is he a good fellow?  If he is, he is one of us; if he isn't, we let him alone.  Even brains and education do not count for very much and some of the most ignorant are the most prosperous.  Mining is not a complicated process, and, as far as I can see, is more a question of luck than anything else.  A miner from Auburn was telling me the other day of a case that happened there last summer.  A man named Jenkins was working at the head of Missouri Gulch, "tomming."  His diggings were just fair, about half an ounce a day.  He had built a little dirt reservoir to catch what water there was, which was very scarce.  The gulch headed in a flat and up at the end of it, where it rose up to the hills, there was a running spring, the water seeping into the flat and going to waste.  In order to make his own supply hold out, he dug a narrow trench and ran the seepage into his reservoir.  It worked all right for a few days and he paid no further attention to it, not even going up on the flat for a week.  One morning he noticed that the water was not running in the ditch and, supposing that a gopher had tapped it, he put his shovel on his shoulder and walked along the trench to see what the trouble might be.  When about half way across he was astonished to see that the bottom of his ditch for twenty feet or more was one yellow mass of gold.  It was an immense rotten quartz deposit, and inside of a month he had taken out forty-one thousand dollars.  That was surely blind <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:luck; still, there was another phase of it that was luckier.  The flat was unclaimed ground, open to location by anybody.  The gold must have been there in plain view day and night for a week or more.  Miners were tramping around in every direction hunting diggings, yet by pure chance not one happened to cross the flat that week.  Fortune started in to favor Jenkins and did not make any half work of it.  As my friend said, "It just shows that when you've got the luck, it's with you from start to finish."  Then he rounded off with what he called a hard luck story.  The mountains are full of miners tramping around from one section to another, wandering over the country, men leaving with their piles or hunting better diggings, and there are numerous hold-ups and murders on the trails that become known only when somebody runs across the bodies.  As we are all strangers to each other outside of our immediate neighborhoods, the identity of the murdered man is rarely discovered and but little interest is taken in apprehending the murderers.  Jim Vineyard, who was mining a bar on the Middle Fork of the Yuba, [Vineyard was father-in-law of Cherley De Long of Marysville, afterward Congressman from Nevada and U. S. Minister to Japan] was up to the store on Kanaka Creek one Sunday, having a good time with a crowd of the boys, and remarked that he had a streak of mighty hard luck during the week.  "What's the matter, Jim, isn't the claim paying?" asked one of his friends.  "Oh, h--l, the claim is all right; it was this way, you see.  I was working on the mine Thursday afternoon, windlassing gravel, when I saw a floater (a drowned man) come <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:bobbing down the river and it drifted on to the upper edge of the bar.  It was some poor miner who had fallen in somewhere up the stream.  I went through his pockets to see if there was anything that would reveal who he was; but found nothing except a knife, plug of tobacco and a buckskin purse with three hundred dollars of dust in it.  Of course, I kept the purse, as somebody might recognize it and prove his identity."  Jim paused to take another drink and the crowd did not seem to catch the point.</p><P>"I don't see anything very unlucky about that," interjected his friend.  "You don't," retorted Jim.  "Wait until you hear the rest of it.  I was too busy and too tired to haul the body out and bury it, so I just gave it a shove and let it float along down stream.  Jack Batterson is fluming about a mile below my bar and the fool corpse had to jam into the head of his flume, instead of going on down the river to the plains.  If it had, then I would never have known how mean fortune could be.  Just why Jack stripped its clothes off, I don't know; any sensible, sympathetic man that had the interest of the corpse at heart would have dug a hole and put it under ground, clothes and all, but he didn't; maybe he wanted the clothes for an extra suit; anyway, he took them off and I'm d--d if he didn't find a money belt around the waist with twelve hundred dollars more dust inside, and now he is crowing over me because I was not smart enough to make a better search.  If you don't call that hard luck, then I don't know what the article is."</p><P>The crowd agreed that it was pretty tough on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Jim and proceeded to help him forget it by ordering drinks all around.</p><P>I must say I was a little shocked by the heartlessness of the incident, although my friend contended that it was a good joke on Jim, and it was so regarded by everybody on the Middle Fork.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>THE UNSOCIABLE COUPLE ON ROUND MOUNTAIN--GOOD FELLOWSHIP AMONG THE PIONEERS--THE TAX-COLLECTOR PASSES THE MINERS BY--A WOMAN IN BREECHES--MARIE RETURNS FROM FRANCE--ADOPTION OF A NEW METHOD OF SLUICING--THE DOG AND DONKEY STRIKE UP A FRIENDSHIP--FRANK DUNN AND HIS ECCENTRICITIES--POSING AS A HORRIBLE EXAMPLE.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>MARCH 21, 1852.</p><P>--There is a queer couple living up on the slope of Round Mountain at the gap where it breaks off into the Rock Creek Can&tilde;on.  All sorts of stories and rumors about them and their doings have been in circulation, although nobody had any acquaintance with them or knew any facts about their operations.  It was noticed, however, that they never were away from the cabin at the same time, that they made no friends or visits and that when anyone came around their neighborhood they were gruff and unsocial.  As this is a great country for everybody minding his own business, no attention would have been paid to them if their manners and customs had not been so different from the general rule.  If there is one thing above another that prevails, it is the good-fellowship among us all.  If a man is taken sick, is hurt, or in bad luck, there is not one of us that is not ready to nurse him or put our hands into our pockets if necessary.  We don't ask who he is, where he came from, or what is his religion.  On the other hand, men are coming and going all the time.  You may have known a man for a year, then you miss him, see a stranger at his cabin, and ask what has become of the old occupant and the answer will be, "Oh, he has made his pile and gone back to the States," or, "His claim petered out and he's off prospecting," or, "He went with the rush to Gold Bluff, or the Kern River excitement," and then you forget him.  It's all a hurly-burly with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:nobody making plans to live here permanently.  We were talking about this over at Selby Flat the other night and the crowd was unanimous in denouncing the extravagance of a project that was being agitated to build a brick courthouse at Nevada City.  No matter how much gold is discovered, it cannot last always--not more than a few years at most--and when it is gone what will there be to keep up a town, or to live for, and then all of the money spent on stone buildings and courthouses will go to waste.</p><P>I don't suppose I ought to growl about it.  So far as I know, the tax-collector does not bother us miners.  Our log cabins are not worth taxing, our claims are exempt, and if the town people want to pay for these follies, it is their privilege.  The outside towns--Grass Valley, Rough and Ready and Selby Flat--are doing some lively kicking over the courthouse scheme, and there is talk of a fight to take away the county seat from Nevada City.</p><P>Out of curiosity I rode over to see the couple who live on Round Mountain, and I made a funny discovery.  If one of them is not a woman dressed in men's clothes, then I don't know a woman when I see one.  The cabin is a queer sort of shanty, about thirty feet long, built into the bank so that the roof comes down even with it.  There are two doors, one narrow and the other five feet wide.  There is a wheelbarrow track leading out of the wide door to a dump-pile of waste dirt and a Tom set in the ravine below, where, evidently, the pay dirt is washed.  I could see at once that they were tunneling into the hill from the back of the cabin, although if it had not been for the dump-pile, Long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:Tom and wheelbarrow track no one would have suspected that any mining was going on in the vicinity.  While I was sitting on my horse taking in all this, a slight young fellow came out wheeling a barrow of dirt.  He seemed startled to see me, turned his head away, dumped his dirt, pulled his hat down over his eyes and went back through the door without even saying good morning.  I started to ride away when another man appeared at the door--a long-whiskered, stout-built fellow who did not seem to be at all pleased at my being there--and asked me roughly what I wanted.  I replied that I wanted nothing, was riding around the country, happened to come across the place, had halted a minute and that was all.  He turned to go back, hesitated, then looked around and asked me to get down and hitch the horse.  I was so curious that I accepted the invitation and in a few minutes we were sitting out on the dump-pile in the sun chatting away like old friends.  I think he is a Western man by his accent, not that I asked any questions, not having the chance.  He did the questioning, and kept me busy answering, not seeming to know anything about what was going on anywhere, neither in his own neighborhood nor abroad, and although he did not appear to be an ignorant man in a general way, he certainly lacked information on current happenings.  The young fellow failed to show up, and, after an hour or so, the man excused himself for a minute--it was past noon--came back and asked me if I would not stop for dinner.  I was dying to see the inside of the cabin and accepted.  Well, you never saw a neater place.  Twenty feet of it was partitioned off.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:was a board floor, swept and clean, a curtain to the window, paper, the edges cut in scallops, on the shelves, a home-made double bed nicely made up, and pillows.  The table was covered with a tablecloth made of flour sacks sewn together, but white and clean, and the crockery all washed since breakfast.  I wondered what sort of finicky miners these could be, so different in their housekeeping from the rest of us, when the young fellow began to put the grub on the table.  That settled it.  He had his hat off, and "he" was a woman dead sure.  If there had been nothing else, the cooking would have proved it; hot biscuit, fried quail with a thin strip of bacon wrapped around them, beans, of course, but not greasy beans, a fine cup of coffee, and doughnuts.  Gracious!  That was the first doughnut I had eaten since leaving Connecticut.  He just introduced her as his partner without any explanation and I did not ask for any, although it looked funny to see a pretty, black-haired, black-eyed woman dressed up in a woolen shirt, overalls and boots.  I had sense enough to keep my mouth shut on the subject and we ate our dinner as if there was nothing strange in the situation.  After it was over and we had smoked our pipes, she in the meantime clearing off the table and washing the dishes, he asked me to come in and look at his mine.  He had run a tunnel into the mountain from the back of his cabin and was in a hundred feet or more.  He said he had stumbled on it by accident, built the cabin as I saw it, just for a notion, that it had paid and was still paying very well and he would stay with it until it was worked out.  He came out with me when I got ready to go away, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:shook hands and asked me to ride over again, and then said that he knew that he had the reputation of being unsociable and eccentric; that maybe he was, but if I got acquainted I would find out he was not a bad sort; that while it seemed as if there was a mystery there really wasn't, and there was not much to tell.  If I made him another visit he would explain, not because he had to, but that he could understand how it looked queer to an outsider.  Then he got sort of gruff and said it was nobody's business but his own, and I rode away.  Pard and I talked it over and we agreed that the woman was without doubt his wife, who preferred to live with her husband in this way rather than be separated.  If they wanted to lead hermit lives they had the right.  Really, the only strange part of it is her dressing in men's clothes and working in the mine.  I would not let any wife of mine do that sort of thing.</p><P>MARCH 28, 1852.</p><P>--After all my doubts and fears Marie arrived in San Francisco by the last steamer, and I got a letter from her yesterday.  She says she will spend a week or ten days there and will then come to Nevada, and that I am not to come to meet her, but wait until she arrives.  Pard says I am too absurdly happy to be in my right mind, and I guess I am, although a week is a long time to wait and I have had a notion to go down after her anyway.  Instead, however, we began setting our sluices in the bed of the creek, the water having run down so as not to interfere very much, and Pard is as tired of reading as I am of loafing.  It has taken us all of the week to get the boxes in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:place and we will begin sluicing in the dirt to-morrow.  We are going to try the same plan on the creek that we did on the flat, ground-sluice the dirt and let in run through the sluices.  We found out that on Deer Creek they have adopted another plan, doing away with cross riffles and forking out, and, instead, paving some of the boxes with cobbles and the rest with heavy slats and Hungarian riffles.  If this works all right we can put a lot of dirt through, as there is plenty of water and fall for a tailrace.</p><P>The country is looking fine.  Since the rain quit and the sun shone, the grass is up three inches on the hillsides and the oaks and sycamores are leaving out.  The horses and jackass are rolling fat, and even Jack seems to like the coming of spring time.  He has got to be a very sedate and serious dog.  He and the jackass have struck up a great friendship and wander over the hills together all day long, but invariably bring up at the cabin when night comes on.  We stake out the horses, as they might feed off too far and be stolen, or lost, if we let them run loose.  Mother writes me that she surely expects me home in June and that I must not break my word.  I don't think I will go back on it.  It will all be decided as soon as I see Marie.</p><P>Another miner lost his life through whiskey.  Bill Grace, who had been having a night of it over in Nevada, started for home about midnight on Tuesday.  He disappeared, and his partner, who could get no trace of him in town, or elsewhere, found his body Thursday in an old shaft on Selby Hill.  There was about ten feet of water in the shaft and, of course, he was drowned.  There is a good deal of complaint about these old abandoned shafts and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:there is talk of the miners taking some action to compel the claim owners to cover them up.  It is dangerous even for sober men to walk around dark nights.</p><P>Frank Dunn, of Nevada, was over to see Pard yesterday.  He is one of the brightest lawyers in the State, and liked by everybody, but he has a bad failing.  He will go on long sprees and is so uncertain in his habits that his clients lose faith in him. He made a proposition to Pard to form a partnership and practice together, but Pard declined; he is set in his determination to go to San Francisco.<ANCHOR ID="n20-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-1">(NOTE.--Dunn was all that Jackson says, a bright lawyer and a leader of the early Nevada bar.  In the old days his witty sayings, idiosyncrasies and queer bibulous fancies were talked of and repeated by everybody in the county.  He died, I believe, in 1856, and is buried in the old Pine Tree Graveyard.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>They tell many amusing stories of Dunn and his habits.  They found him one day sitting in the street in the sun, his back against the liberty pole on the Plaza, owlishly viewing the surroundings.  One of his friends remonstrated and tried to persuade him to seek the obscurity of his room.  "What for?" said Dunn.  "Is there anything in the statutes of the State of California contrary to my occupying the small space which I have so pree&die;mpted on this highway?  Is there any reason, if I am so minded, that I should not teach my fellow citizens the great moral lesson of the overthrow and debasement of genius by the Demon Rum?  Am I not better employed than if in a stifling, tobacco perfumed courtroom, beating law into the skull of a thick-headed judge, who don't know Blackstone from white quartz?  No, I will not remove myself from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>A SUCCESSFUL EXPERIMENT--A JOKE ON THE VISITORS--ROAD AGENTS HOLD UP A STAGE--UNCHIVALRIC TREATMENT OF THE WOMAN PASSENGER--MEETING OF THE LOVERS--JACKSON'S WORD PICTURE OF THE BEAUTIES OF THE LANDSCAPE, VIEWED FROM SUGAR LOAF--THE RECONCILIATION OF ANDERSON AND HIS WIFE--MARIE'S COMMENTS.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>APRIL 4, 1852.</p><P>--We bucked down to sluicing the creek Monday morning, and as we had plenty of water we put through a pile of dirt.  It was working in the dark, for neither one of us knew whether we were saving any gold or not.  I had my doubts and Pard was not sure, as the stuff ran through with a rush and it did not seem as if the riffles would catch the gold.  It began to rain Friday night and we cleaned up the best we could Saturday morning, as we knew the creek would rise and carry out our sluices unless we got them up on the bank.  We were agreeably surprised to find that we had caught fourteen ounces.  Most of it was very fine, but there was a little coarse gold the size of pumpkin seeds and one nugget that weighed nine dollars.  While not wonderfully rich it will pay pretty good wages.  It will take three or four days to get our boxes set back in the creek, and, as it is liable to rain more or less during April, we have concluded not to try it again until the first of the month.  By that time the winter rains will be over.</p><P>We had a good joke on John Hall and Delos Calkins this morning.  I have got so I can speak French fairly well, and when the boys dropped over on a visit Pard and I jabbered away at each other in that language, throwing in a little English to Delos and John occasionally when they broke into the conversation.  They listened awhile, but got more and more disgusted, and finally Delos said: "You think you are smart, but I think you are a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:couple of d--n fools.  What is it, Choctaw or Greek?"  We told him it was French and that it was our custom to converse with each other in that polite language, and he said we were a pair of galoots, who didn't know the difference between French and Patagonian.  He offered to bet us an ounce apiece that we could not tackle the proprietor of the Hotel de Paris in Nevada and throw that lingo at him for five minutes without being taken for lunatics and chucked out into the street.  Then he began to grin as if he had caught on to a new idea and said: "Why, of course, he's going to talk to her in her own language, `Parley vous Francais, Madam?'"  How they got on to it I don't know, but the boys all know that Marie is coming back and that there is something in the wind; so part of the joke was on me after all.</p><P>We had a talk with them about our new method of mining on Rock Creek, and they have taken the pointer and are going to work a portion of Brush Creek the same way.  We told them part of our plans and that we are going to leave the country early in the summer and they were genuinely sorry to hear it.  They like me, but are specially fond of Anderson.  He has been a sort of umpire in all of the disputes that have arisen and a peacemaker in the neighborhood of quarrels.  They made up their minds to run him for the Legislature next election, but our going away spoils their plans.  After they left Pard said that before he went away he intended to get them all together, give them a blowout and then tell them his real name and why he had sailed under false colors.  He felt that he had to do it, both in justice to them and himself.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>The country above and all the trails have been infested with a gang of highwaymen for the past three months and it has not been safe to travel, as they robbed and murdered right and left.  It is Reelfoot Williams' gang and he and his followers do not seem to be afraid of anything or anybody.  Wednesday morning they held up the Nevada stage near Illinoistown and they got away with seventy-five hundred dollars.  There were only two passengers aboard, a man and a woman.  He gave up two hundred and thirty dollars, all that he had.  She swore she did not have any money, but they were mean enough to search her and, although she fought like a tiger cat, it did not do her any good.  Sure enough, they found six slugs (fifty dollars each) in her stockings, which they confiscated, and rode away laughing.  The man said that she came pretty near getting even in the tongue lashing she gave them, and that, until her tirade, he did not known that the English language had such possibilities.</p><P>APRIL 13, 1852.</p><P>--I went over to Nevada both Monday and Tuesday afternoons to meet the stage, thinking that possibly Marie might be aboard, but she wasn't.  I swore I would not go again until I heard from her, but I guess I would if she had not saved me the trouble, for about three o'clock Wednesday afternoon Pard and I were sitting out under the tree, and I was thinking about saddling the horse and taking a ride, when Jack began to bark, and here she came riding down the trail as pretty a sight as ever I saw.  My heart beat like a trip hammer, my head felt dizzy, and I did not have sense enough to help her off her horse.  Pard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:saved me the trouble, for which I didn't thank him, but she paid no attention to him; she just flung her arms around my neck and began laughing and crying and calling me "mom chere."  I was mightily embarrassed for a minute, until I saw out of the tail of my eye Pard and Jack disappearing up the trail.  Then I gave her as warm and loving a welcome as she had me.  Wasn't it lucky that we weren't working, and I had on clean clothes?  I hitched her horse and then we sat down on the clean pine needles holding each other's hands, and if I lived a thousand years I never could write down half we said in the next hour.  Gracious!  Isn't she pretty with her crinkly brown hair, her laughing eyes and her white teeth.  I never realized before how handsome she is.  I sprung my French on her and she just laughed and said I spoke it so well that she could understand some of it.  After a while Pard strolled back, patted her hand and told her that to see me happy was to make him the same; all that I wanted was a good wife, and he was sure that she would make me one; that he loved me as well as if I was his own brother; and then he choked and whistled to Jack and started for the trail again, but we would not let him go.  We discussed all of our plans and came to a mutual understanding.  Pard got supper--I was too busy talking and had no appetite anyhow--and about ten o'clock we both rode to Nevada with her, for the sake of the proprieties, as Pard put it.  That, to me, was the happiest evening of all my life.  Since then she has been over every day, generally getting here about nine o'clock in the morning--she has a room at the Hotel de Paris--stays until after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:supper and then I ride back with her in the twilight.  I don't think there is any other place on earth where the evenings are as beautiful as they are here.  We ride up to Sugar Loaf gap and look off on the country, the sky all aglow with the setting sun, a great ball of red fire dropping down behind the Yuba ridge, Deer Creek winding down the can&tilde;on, the pine trees on the opposite slope standing out like black giants against the background, and as the darkness falls the lights twinkle and flash in the town lying at our feet, a breeze stirring as soft and caressing as--well, I am at a loss for words, but it is just good to live.  When I tell Pard of it he says:  "Yes, you're in love and every prospect pleases."  Poor old Pard, he watches us as if we were a couple of children.  She has petted, played and fondled Jack until the old dog has about thrown off the rest of us.  Pard says he used to have a dog and two jackasses, and now he has only a single jackass left.  Marie has coaxed him into telling his story and she says: "You poor man, you tried to throw away the best thing on earth, a good woman's love."  He pleads guilty, but insists that he repented in time.  It is settled that Pard's wife will meet him in San Francisco in June.</p><P>We had a marriage up at Scott's ranch last week and Marie and I went to it by invitation.  Lou Hanchett, the boss miner on the ridge, has been courting a pretty girl at Selby Flat.  They were friends of the Scotts, and the wedding was held at their place.  About twenty of the boys from Selby Flat were there, as well as all of the miners from Rock Creek.  Lou provided a big blow-out and ended up with a dance, which we kept up until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:midnight and then scattered.  Hanchett is one of the best fellows in the country, but the boys are not exactly pleased with his capturing the belle of the county and taking her away from the Flat.<ANCHOR ID="n21-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-1">(Note.--Hanchett and wife settled at the camp afterward known as Moore's Flat, where he discovered and opened one of the richest mines in the State.  A girl baby was born to them in 1853, who passed her girlhood in that pretty mountain town.  She married George Crocker, son of Charles Crocker, one of the original projectors and builders of the Central Pacific Railroad, and died in Paris two years ago.  Lou Hanchett and wife still survive and are living in San Francisco at the present time.)</NOTE></DIV>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>A PLACID LIFE--MARIE OBSERVES THE PROPRIETIES--PARD PLANS FOR THE FUTURE--THE PROGRESS OF A LOVE IDYLL--REELFOOT WILLIAMS AND HIS GANG--JACK'S WARNING--ROBBERY OF THE BLUE TENT STORE--A FRUITLESS PURSUIT--NEGOTIATING THE SALE OF MINING PROPERTIES--SHALLOW PLACERS WORKED OUT AND DEEP DIGGINGS TAKING THEIR PLACE.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>APRIL 18, 1852.</p><P>--It's a queer life we are leading, but it could not be pleasanter.  I have given her my horse to ride and Pard lets me use his animal.  Mine is the gentler one and I would not trust Marie on a bucking horse.  Pard says that in the present state of affairs a jackass will do him.  The landlady of the Hotel de Paris and Marie are countrywomen, and are great friends, which makes it very pleasant, as she has a companion to live with and it stops talk.  Marie gets her breakfast at the hotel and then rides out to the cabin.  Then we sit around in the shade until dinner time.  Marie calls it <HI REND="italics">de&acute;jeuner a&grave; la fourchette</HI>
069.sgm:, and says dinner time doesn't come until six o'clock.  We've hunted the town for dainty things to eat and have a regular picnic cooking our meals.  It's astonishing to see how neat we have got to be, beds made up, dishes washed, cabin tidied up as clean as we can make it, and we have even swept the dooryard.  Marie rubs her finger over the plates and shows us the grease on them and says: "We have not used of ze soap plenty enough" and "ze dish cloths, they are so dirty."  Pard calls her a little tyrant, but he is as pleased as a boy, and Jack has gone daffy.  Some of the afternoons when it is not too hot we ride together over the hills, but generally sit around under the pine trees chatting and planning the future.  Pard is set on my going into some kind of business at San Francisco.  First of all, though, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:we will visit the old folks, although not to settle down there.  Marie says: "Perhaps ze fazzer and ze muzzer zey will not like it t'at I take zeir boy, but I t'ink I will make zem to love me," and Pard says she is a pretty witch whom nobody could help liking.  Then she wants me to visit Paris and meet her mother and sisters and then, "if San Francisco," shrugging her shoulders, "well, what ze husband he desire, ze good wife she should do ze same."  Pard roars at this and says good doctrine before marriage, but wait until afterwards.<ANCHOR ID="n22-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-1">(NOTE.--It will be seen that Jackson's diary has degenerated or risen, as the reader is pleased to view it, into a love romance, pure and simple, and the prosaic facts of his existence do not get the same detail as before, but the situation is idyllic.  That this hard-headed Yankee and vivacious Frenchwoman should drift together from opposite ends of the earth and form a mutual attachment that ignored family ties, opposing religions and contrary views from almost any standpoint, braving the sneers and criticisms of the world, each with an abiding faith in the other's affection, constitutes a romantic episode, and, I was about to add, a strange one.  I qualify this, however, for I can recall dozens of instances that were quite as unreasonable from a commonplace standpoint.  Love has no reasons, no excuses, and the sexual instinct will not be denied.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>We rubbed pretty close to a nasty adventure Thursday.  Reelfoot Williams' gang has been raiding the trails and roads for the past month.  Posses have been raised to chase and capture them, and there was a fight two weeks ago between the robbers and a Marysville posse down below Rose's Bar.  A deputy sheriff and one of his men were killed, but the thieves got off scot free.  We have heard of them around Nevada County, and they held up the stage near Illinoistown a couple of weeks ago.  We had just finished dinner when Jack growled and Pard went to the door to find out what the trouble was.  He saw a lot of men coming up the trail about fifty yards away, and it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:popped into his mind that they were the highwaymen.  He jumped back and grabbed his rifle and I followed suit with the shotgun and pistol.  We both stood in the door and when they rode up they saw we were heeled and had the advantage of being inside.  They halted, hesitated a minute, the leader fell back and said something to one of the men, and then asked if they were on the Blue Tent trail.  Pard answered, "Yes, keep right along and you will get there."  The spokesman, a good-looking fellow with long, light hair and mustache, wanted to know if we took them for a lot of d--n robbers, and Pard replied: "Never mind what we take you for, move along"; and they went.  After <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:they were out of sight Pard said I had better take Marie back to Nevada and he would go along and raise a posse.  Marie was as courageous as either one of us and kept as quiet as a mouse while they were at the cabin, but on the way to town tried to coax me not to go with the party, said that thief catching was not my business, and so did Pard, but I was not going to let him take any chances that I was not willing to share, even if he was a deputy sheriff.  So I went.  We might as well have stayed at home for all the good it did, although we found out we were right in thinking them highwaymen.  An hour after they left us they robbed the Blue Tent store of a lot of provisions and eight hundred dollars in dust.  It was five o'clock before we started and dark by the time we reached Blue Tent.  We pushed on to Humbug [now North Bloomfield] but they had not been seen there and we figured out that they had gone down the ridge toward Cherokee.  We went there the next day, but they had kept out of view and we heard no more of them.  I got a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:good sight of the party at the cabin.  There were five of them, three white men and two greasers.  The fellow who did the talking was without doubt the leader, Williams, the other two were Rattlesnake Dick and Jim Mosely, and the two Mexicans, Alverez and Garcia.  We have not the least doubt that they had intended to rob us, and would have done so if Jack had not given us warning.  Good old Jack, he showed right there that he is worth all the trouble he ever gave us.<ANCHOR ID="n22-2">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:<P>APRIL 25, 1852</p><P>.--It has not rained for ten days and we will be able to get back into the creek again if we do not have any more showers.  Neither Pard nor I are very anxious to continue mining and we have an offer from some of the Brush Creek boys which we may take up.  We told them the result of our first week's washing and they proposed to come over and work with us a week, and if it yielded as well as in the beginning they would form a company to run it on shares and give us twenty per cent. of what they took out.  We have agreed to their proposal and will begin putting in the boxes as soon as the water runs down a little more.  I am anxious to get away, but Pard says he will not leave until the time comes to meet his wife.  She will start from New York the 21st of May.  I asked Marie what we should do and she says that while there is nothing to keep her here except my convenience, still, after all Pard had done for me, and considering what our relations may be in the future, we had better postpone our complete happiness for a little while.  Pard is much pleased over our decision.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>We have bargained to sell our interests in the river claim to the other members of the company for six thousand dollars.  If the creek turns out well, I will have pretty close to twenty-five thousand dollars, so I am comparatively a rich man.  Marie tells me that she has twenty thousand dollars in French Rentes, which, as I understand it, are government bonds; the five thousand dollars invested in Frisco lots, and a country place near Paris, for which she paid fourteen thousand dollars.  This place she wants her mother and sisters to live in, rent free, if I am willing, and they have enough income of their own to get along on nicely.  As if I were going to have anything to say about what she does with her money!  I will never touch a cent of it, although she insists that when we are married it is mine.  Pard says she has it well invested and not to disturb it, as I have enough of my own to go into business or speculate with.</p><P>I notice that the miners now, instead of mining alone, or with a single partner, as was generally the rule at first, have got to forming companies of half a dozen or a dozen men and working their claims more systematically and extensively.  Ounce diggings are not as easily found as they were a year or two ago and the creeks, gulches, and shallow placers are pretty well worked out.  There are a lot of deep diggings, mostly operated by means of shafts, and some of these are down as much as one hundred and fifty feet.</p><P>On Coyote and Manzanita Hills they have rigged up whims, and hoist the dirt by horsepower, and at Red Dog and its vicinity they have built water wheels, which they use both to pump and raise the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>A COMBINATION TO WORK ROCK CREEK--EXTRACTING GOLD FROM BLUE CEMENT--THE CRITICAL CATS AT SELBY FLAT--FRENCH COOKING IN THE OLD CABIN--THE INFLUX OF CHINAMEN INTO THE MINES--A JOINT VISIT TO ROUND MOUNTAIN--MARIE PREDICTS AN EXPLOSION--NO CAUSE FOR INTERFERENCE.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>MAY 2, 1852.</p><P>--We got our sluice boxes back in the creek, finishing yesterday, and John Dunn and three of his partners will start in to-morrow morning.  They are going to adopt the same plan that we tried, using as big a head of water as the boxes will carry, and ground-sluice all of the gravel through with as little handling as possible.  The bed-rock will have to be creviced and cleaned by hand.  If it pays they will make the same proposition to Platt and Dixon.  They have enough ground of ours to keep them busy all summer.  Dunn and his crowd are taking up all of the vacant ground on Brush Creek and will work it in the same way.  It is a pity we did not know enough two years ago to wash the ground through sluices, instead of rocking it.  We could have cleaned up a fortune in a month.  We thought when the Long Tom came in, that it would never be improved upon.  Now one rarely sees either rocker or Tom except in dry gulches and ravines where water is scarce.<ANCHOR ID="n23-1">*</ANCHOR>
069.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-1">(NOTE.--Jackson was speculating on the availability of gravel deposits that a few years afterward, when hydraulicking came into vogue, proved to be the most valuable hydraulic mines in the world, as the subsequent operations at North Bloomfield, Malakoff, Columbia Hill, Badger Hill, etc., demonstrated.  Jackson and his Pard might have been tempted to a longer stay in the foothills had they had a glimmering of the possibilities.)</NOTE>
069.sgm:<P>I was over on Gopher Point a short time ago.  The miners are having lots of trouble getting gold out of the cement.  They run some of it through sluices, but the water has but little effect on it, and half of it goes into the tailrace without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:breaking up.  The richest of it they spread out on the bare bed-rock and let it weather slack, and then pound it up with sledge hammers.  In spite of all this they are making money.  Over on the other side of the river, at Humbug, they have struck some good diggings and quite a large mining camp has sprung up there.  It is a loose quartz gravel, easily washed, and they say that there are immense beds of it covering three or four miles up and down the ridge.  It doesn't all pay; in fact, there are only a few spots that are rich enough to work, but there is a little gold through it all.  If there was only some way to wash big quantities of it cheaply, there is lots of gold to be taken out.</p><P>Marie and I have paid a visit to Selby Flat, but I think we will avoid that place in the future.  The boys treated us nicely and as respectful as could be; but the women--they are a lot of cats. There is not one of them that can hold a candle to Marie for good looks; and as for reputation, well, the most of them are good women, but there were a few who sneered behind our backs and were inclined to be very uppish, and those were the ones who had no reputation to speak of.  All because she had dealt a gambling game and that is all they can say against her.  I was inclined to give them a piece of my mind, but Marie laughed at it and said: "You foolish boy, never quarrel wiz a woman.  You cannot fight wiz her and her tongue is too much for you."  Of course, she is right; but it is this sort of thing that makes me want to get away from here.  We have jolly times at the cabin, however.  She always brings over some dainty to eat from the hotel or stores, and we get up all sorts of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:fancy dishes, that is, she does, and Pard and I do the rough work.  She says cooking is an art in her country, and I guess it is, for she has about spoiled us and it would be a tough proposition to have to go back to our old grub.  We have got down to coffee and bread for breakfast and neither one of us can tackle fried pork and beans any more.  It doesn't make much difference, as we do not get up until nine o'clock.  Pard rolls out at daylight to fire rocks at the jackass, who insists on giving us an early concert every morning.  We let Jack out to keep him company, and that seems to soothe his troubled spirit.  It is a strange thing the attachment between the two animals.  It's worth while being awakened to know that we have not got to crawl out, get breakfast and then tackle a hard day's work in the mud and water.  Marie gets back to the hotel regularly before dark and won't let me stay later than ten o'clock.  "It is for what ze people would say, my Alfred," and I strike out for the cabin.  Pard is deep in his books, but he drops them and we chat and plan until midnight.  We both wish the days would go by faster.  The "old boy" is longing to see his wife and looking eagerly forward to the meeting.</p><P>Dunn and his partners put in the week on our Rock Creek claims and are well satisfied with the returns.  They took in MacCalkins and Barker on the lay and six of them tackled it.  It doesn't make any difference to us how many are interested, as we get twenty per cent. of what comes out.  They cleaned up yesterday afternoon and had fifty-one ounces.  That will give us two hundred dollars for our rake off and they are averaging about an ounce <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:apiece per day.  Dunn has an idea that he can do still better by increasing the size of the boxes.  They are now using ten by twelve-inch bottoms and ten-inch sides.  He has ordered at the mill two and a half feet bottoms and eighteen-inch sides of two inches thickness, and will set these in the bed of the creek, anchoring them down permanently so that flood water will not carry them away.  He says he is convinced that if he can hold them down he can catch most of the gold in the dirt that is carried down when the water is high and then clean up the creek at low water.  I do not see any reason why it should not work.  Anyway, the experiment will cost us nothing.</p><P>Chinamen are getting to be altogether too plentiful in the country.  Six months ago it was seldom one was seen, but lately gangs of them have been coming in from below.  There is a big camp of them down on Deer Creek, below Newtown, and we found a lot of them getting ready to work on the bars on the Yuba River.  Pard and I chased a dozen off of our river claims and warned them that we would shoot them if we found them there again.  We called a miner's meeting and adopted a miner's law that they should not be allowed to take up or hold ground for themselves nor should they mine worked or unworked ground unless purchased from a white owner.  Some were for driving them out of the country entirely, but the majority thought it would be a good thing to sell them claims, as it was an easy way to make money.  Pard says it is a great mistake to let them get any sort of a foothold; but as we are going to quit mining, our objections were not as strong as they might have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:been.  I understand that most of the camps have adopted the same sort of law.  They are not looked upon as human beings and have no rights that a white man is bound to respect, except in protecting them in their titles to ground that they have regularly bought under agreed conditions.  Their big camp on Deer Creek was raided a couple of weeks ago, it is said, by a gang of Mexicans, two of them were killed and the remainder scattered all over the country.  Report says that the Greasers got away with over thirty thousand dollars.  The Chinamen appealed for protection, but nobody paid any attention to them.  There were over fifty living in the camp and they ought to have been able to protect themselves; but they seem to be great cowards and will not fight under any circumstances.</p><P>I told Marie about my visit to the couple on Round Mountain and she proposed that we ride over and see them.  We found them at home and still working the tunnel, and the man, while not particularly glad to see us, was decent enough to ask us to get off of our horses and come inside the cabin.  I don't think he liked the idea of Marie getting acquainted with the women, although he made no objection.  She was as shy as a deer and no doubt ashamed of her man's dress--she was still wearing overalls and shirt--and we left them together while he and I went outside for a chat.  He was as curious as ever about what was going on outside and kept me busy for an hour posting him up to date on the news.  Then we were called in to luncheon, which Marie had helped to get ready, and we had a nice meal.  I noticed the woman's eyes were red and that she had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:crying.  Marie stepped on my foot and I had sense enough to say nothing awkward.  When we bid them good-bye the women kissed each other and Marie promised to see her again soon.  As soon as we were out of earshot she said indignantly: "Oh! he is what you call ze great brute; no, he does not beat her, she say he is not cruel, but she is all ze same as one prisoner and her heart it is for to break, she is so <HI REND="italics">isolement</HI>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>THE PARTNERS SELL OUT THE CREEK CLAIM--JACKSON'S REPUTATION IN HIS OLD HOME--PROVIDING FOR THE JACKASS'S FUTURE--THE SLOCUM FARM HAS NO ATTRACTION--LOAFING THE DAYS AWAY--RUSHES TO NEW LOCALITIES--TROUBLE ON ROUND MOUNTAIN--SCANDALMONGER'S TONGUES LET LOOSE-CHINAMEN SHOW FIGHT AND ARE RUN OFF OF DEER CREEK.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>MAY 9, 1852.</p><P>--The creek claim panned out well for the week, the clean-up yesterday amounting to sixty-one ounces.  Dunn and his partners have been at the cabin all the afternoon bargaining to buy the claims outright, and we agreed on terms.  They are to give us three thousand dollars in cash and we turn the ground over to them.  This suits both of us, as we will go away next month and do not want any interests left behind, as neither of us calculate on coming back.  As we have already agreed to sell our interests in the river claims for six thousand and are to receive our money on June 1, we will have nine thousand dollars to divide between us, which is not very bad for a winter's work.</p><P>I had some nice letters from home and a copy of the Winsted Herald, in which there is an item that Mr. Alfred Jackson, of Norfolk, had made his fortune in the California mines and would soon return and settle down in his old home.  I guess the editor is mistaken about my settling down.  Norfolk is too small a village for me, although there was a time when I thought it was the greatest place on earth.  I am beginning to believe with Pard that this is going to be a great State, and the chances are that here will be my home.  First, however, I am going to see something of the world; we will go to Europe and roam around for six months or more.  Pard says it will be an ideal honeymoon trip and one that will expand my ideas, broaden me out, and that I will get rid of some of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:my Puritan notions.  It may be so, but I guess my bringing up has not been any great drawback.  Come to think of it, he has got as many queer ideas as I have.  He has asked me to give him Jack, which I am very glad to do.  I like the old dog mighty well, but somehow he was fonder of Pard from the beginning, and besides, I could not very well take him to the States with me.  Then he is going to take the jackass below with him; says he will turn him out on a ranch where he can get a good living without work.  He explained that he could not bear to think of somebody packing him with heavy loads over the rough trails and beating him to death.  So he is with all of God's creatures, a tender heart for everything that lives.</p><P>For the past month everything has seemed as unreal to me as a dream, and the thought comes once in a while that I may wake up and find such to be the case.  It is not quite three years since I left home and the people wondered at my courage in venturing into an unknown country at the ends of the earth.  Now it seems as if it was the center of the universe instead of the hub, and I have a sort of pity for those who are ignorant of its attractions.  I have become a reader and a student.  Books, which at one time were a weariness, delight me.  I came away engaged to be married to a good girl.  Now, although she is the same Hetty, I am not the same man, and I know that we are not suited to each other.  I was poor, now I am comparatively rich, and I have ambitions and aspirations to push on in the world and carve out a career, where three years ago I would have been content to take the Slocum farm and vegetate on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:it the rest of my life.  I have faith that Marie will not only make me a good wife, but also the companion I need as a stimulus to my ambitions.  And then Pard, who has been such a comfort and aid to me, made me solemnly promise that when I get through with my wanderings I will come back to San Francisco and settle down there where we can still have each other's friendship.  He quotes Emerson, "When you are sure of your friend, hold to him with hooks of steel."  Well, it is a great change in three years and who knows what the next three years will bring?</p><P>MAY 16, 1852.</p><P>--The days go by most pleasantly and we are almost as irresponsible as three children.  The rains are over, the summer's heat has come and the foothills are an earthly paradise. We have even become too lazy to ride around the country.  I content myself with an evening gallop to town and back, and the rest of the time we loaf under the trees.  Pard quotes some old Greek poet about the Elysian Isles, "Where Rhadamanthus dwells, and pain and sorrow come not, nor rain or wind, and the never dying zephyrs blow softly off the ocean."</p><P>That will do very well just now, but it would not be very apt during one of our winter storms with a gale blowing through the pines, the limbs breaking and crashing to the ground, and everything in an uproar.  I have a copy of Byron and am reading aloud his "Childe Harold."  It is a great poem.</p><P>Nevada City is growing out of all bounds and is a big town.  There are at least five thousand people living in and around it, and it is fast filling up with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:families from the States; wives and children come out to join their husbands.  As a consequence, it is getting to be a much more orderly and decent community.</p><P>They nearly had a famine during the winter rains, but the roads are all in good order again and prices of all kinds of supplies reasonable.  They are talking of building a wagon road over Sugar Loaf, down Rock Creek to the river, bridge that stream, and then over the Yuba divide to Cherokee and San Juan, both of which having grown to be good-sized and prosperous mining camps.  The upper end of Shady Creek has paid well and good diggings have been found on Badger Hill, but the best pay in that section has been taken out of Blind Shady, a gulch that empties into Big Shady Creek.  I am told that there are a dozen claims on this ravine that have averaged a hundred dollars a day to the man.  It does seem as if there was no end to the gold deposits.  There has been a big rush to Gold Bluff, on the ocean beach above Trinidad, but most of the miners have come back badly disappointed.  There were marvelous stories of the waves washing up dust on the beach by the bushel, but it was all an exaggeration.  While there was some gold found, it was difficult to gather and in no such quantities as reported.  It is curious how restless the majority of the miners are and how ready to pack up and drift away on the strength of mere rumors.</p><P>Marie is a prophet.  There has been an explosion on Round Mountain and we can hardly get head or tail of it.  Anyway, there was a shooting match, and nobody hurt, the woman has skipped the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:country with some other man and the one we thought her husband is back in the cabin alone, refusing to talk to anybody and more unsociable than ever.  Marie saw the woman in Nevada with a stranger.  They stayed there for a couple of days and then took the stage for parts unknown.  From the little that the woman confided to Marie, the stranger called her companion out of the cabin and, after a few high words, drew a pistol and began shooting.  He took to the brush and she did not think he was hit.  Then she changed her dress, put on the clothes that belonged to her sex and came away with the new comer.  She seemed to concede the stranger's right of possession, and was not unhappy.  The sheriff went out to the cabin, the intruder having told him of the occurrence; expecting, possibly, to find a mortally wounded or dead man.  On the contrary, he found the man unhurt and unwilling to give any details or make any complaint.  There is a lot of gossip and talk over it and every man has a theory.  The prevailing opinion is that the fellow had run away with some man's wife, or mistress, and sought seclusion and concealment in their odd cabin on the mountain; that the wronged man had traced the guilty pair, tried to kill his wife's paramour, and, not succeeding, had to forgive her, taken her back and had gone away without any further attempt to avenge his wrongs, that is, if he had any to avenge.  It's funny to hear the "cats" over at Selby Flat talk about it.  Not one of them has a good word for the woman and think the husband must have been a mean spirited fellow in consenting to take her back.  But, then, women have queer ways and don't see things in the same light that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:men do.  They do say that the one who talks the most and the worst is badly tarred with the same stick.  She has poked her nose into my affairs and I should have called her husband down long ago had it not been that we were going away soon and Pard's pleadings not to make a nasty rumpus over it.</p><P>The miners on Deer Creek, below the town, turned out last week and drove all of the Chinamen off that stream.  The heathen had got to be impudent and aggressive, taking up claims the same as white men and appropriating water without asking leave.  They cut one of the miner's dams and, when he attempted to repair it, chased him away, brandishing their shovels and making a great hullabaloo.  He passed the word up and down the creek, and that afternoon about fifty miners gathered together, ran the Chinamen out of the district, broke up their pumps and boxes, tore out their dams, destroyed their ditches, burned up their cabins and warned them not to come back under penalty of being shot if they made a reappearance.  The miners' actions are generally endorsed and there is a disposition to bar the Chinks out of the district.  It is said that they are coming to the State by thousands, and, if not molested, they would soon overrun the country.  Below Newtown they have got possession of two or three miles of the creek and are not disturbed, as they acquired the ground by purchase from white speculators.  I am told that they paid in the neighborhood of forty thousand dollars for the claims they are working.  It is a sight to see them on the trails, packing two big baskets of stuff on the ends of a bamboo pole and carrying a load that would stagger a jackass.</P></DIV>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>SAD TERMINATION OF THE ROUND MOUNTAIN MYSTERY--A SUICIDE'S CYNICAL FAREWELL--THE INTRUSION OF THE "ETERNAL FEMININE"--PARD'S REMARKS--"LET THERE BE NO CLACK OF IDLE TONGUES"--AN IMPRESSIVE CEREMONY AND A SOLITARY GRAVE--THE PARTNERS GROW SENTIMENTAL OVER THE OLD LOG CABIN AND THEIR MUTUAL EXPERIENCES--PREPARING FOR A LEAVE--TAKING.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>MAY 23, 1852.</p><P>--It would seem as if we had at last got to the final chapter in the story of the Round Mountain couple and it has ended in a sad sort of way.  John Hall, who was out hunting yesterday afternoon, passed by the cabin and, seeing no signs of life and receiving no response to his call opened the door, which was unlocked, and went in.  He was shocked to find the man on the bed lifeless and cold.  There were no traces of violence and Hall says the man looked more like one asleep than dead.  The cabin was undisturbed and if it had not been for a letter left on the table there would have been no reason to believe that he had died from other than natural causes.  However, the note and the traces of crystals of arsenic in a cup clearly indicated that he had committed suicide.  The letter, which I copied, was strange and pitiful.  He had written in a clear, firm hand:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"<HI REND="italics">Whoever finds my body, if it has not gone back to its original "elements before discovery, will if it taxes not his humanity too "much, dig a hole and cover it with clean earth and there let it rot "without mound or stone to mark the place.  It is only an atom "that of its own accord goes back from whence it came.  While it "dwelt on earth, it found men rogues and women false.  It inspired "hate and treachery, but could not compass love.  Fearing its own "company, distrusting all men and despising all women, it arrogated "the right to end an existence that was thrust upon it without its "consent.  There is no one left to mourn or rejoice; and if there is "an unproved hereafter, of which no man knows, it will at least have "repose from the clack of idle tongues</HI>
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069.sgm:</p><P>There was no signature and, singularly enough, there was not a soul who knew the man's name.  Pard, to whom I read the copy of the letter, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:quite affected and said that, while it was morbid and cynical, it showed, whoever he was, a man of more than ordinary intelligence, one who had drank the cup to the bitter dregs.  "Be sure, Alf," he continued, "it's the eternal feminine; to some of us they are angels, to others--this poor fellow, for example--the reverse.  I hope they will carry out his last wish, and I will go over this afternoon and see that they do."  I went along and found quite a crowd.  There was a coroner's inquest and a verdict of suicide, and then Pard proposed that we carry out the dead man's last request.  We dug a hole on the hillside, about a hundred yards away from the cabin, rolled the body up in blankets and deposited it in the bottom.  The crowd asked Pard to say something and he made a few remarks, in substance as follows:</p><P>"Boys, a sermon would be a hollow mockery, a eulogy pure invention, for of his virtues or his failings we know nothing.  He was a man, who having tasted life, found it unpalatable and pushed it aside.  From what little we know, he loved, sorrowed, despaired and laid down the burden.  The only tribute we can pay him is to not vex the air roundabout his old dwelling place, to quote his epitaph, `with the clack of idle tongues.'"</p><P>Then we filled the grave, rolled a big rock on it and went away.  It was a simple but most impressive ceremony and one could see that it had made an impression on the crowd.  Happy, careless fellows, they went from curiosity, and came away filled with great pity for the dead.  After we got back to the cabin we could not help speculating on it all.  Marie, who had stayed away, was in tears <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:over the story and the last letter.  "Poor fellow," she said, "perhaps somewhere a muzzer she wait and she mourn for him and he comes not."  I rode over to town with her, but we were both low spirited and melancholy and had but little to say to each other.  Altogether, it is about the saddest Sabbath day I have spent in this country, and it has set me thinking how little we know or care about the affairs of those other than ourselves or immediate friends.</p><P>MAY 30, 1852.</p><P>--In two weeks more we will bid the place good-bye and leave it, so far as I can see, for all time.  I think we would go sooner, as we are all getting impatient and restless, but we will not receive the money for our river claims until the 8th of June and must wait to close that transaction.  Dunn and company, who have bought and paid for our creek ground, are doing well, and are satisfied with the bargain.  They have got the lumber on the ground for their big flume, half of the boxes made and will begin to put it in this week.  They have also succeeded in buying up the most of Brush Creek below the flat and will flume it in the same way.  All of the Saleratus Ranch boys are interested and I hope they will make a fortune.  They are a jolly lot of fellows and, excepting Pard, my best friends, and they don't like to hear of our going away.  Pard has planned to give a farewell supper to them and about twenty others, including Platt, Dixon, Gleason, and Fisk, our Rock Creek neighbors, and there he is going to carry out his intentions of telling them his right name and his reason for sailing under false colors, as he calls it.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI.</HEAD>
069.sgm:<P>DISTRIBUTING PERSONAL EFFECTS--PARD'S FAREWELL DINNER--"ZEY ARE ZE GOOD BOYS"--CHAMPAGNE AND ITS EFFECTS--THE LAST SITTING UNDER THE OLD PINE TREE--VOICES OF THE NIGHT CHORUS A MELANCHOLY FAREWELL--WIND-UP OF JACKSON'S DIARY--THE FATE OF HETTY AND A LAST WORD IN REGARD TO THE ACTORS WHO HAVE FIGURED IN THE OLD-TIME RECORD.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>JUNE 6, 1852.</p><P>--Only a week more and it is good-bye to Rock Creek.  We have arranged all our plans and will leave here on the 14th for San Francisco.  Marie will take the stage and wait for us until we arrive, and will carry Jack along with her.  The old dog will make no objection, as he is as fond of her as of us.  Pard has arranged with a teamster to drive the jackass to Sacramento and we will ride that far on our horses and then take the boat.  We calculate to reach the city by the 18th at the latest, and may get there a day earlier.  Pard expects to meet his wife about the 20th.  She left New York, or was to, on the 22d of May.  The old boy is as restless as a caged animal and paces up and down in front of the cabin until he has worn a path for a hundred feet or more, as well as wearing out Jack's patience.  The dog started in to follow him, and it was fun to watch him look at Pard when he made the turn at each end.  Jack soon gave it up as a piece of foolishness, this walking all the time and getting nowhere.  It was an idiosyncrasy that he pardoned, but refused to be a party to, preferring to curl up alongside of Marie and be petted.</p><P>We have not got very much baggage to bother us.  I have packed up all of the old letters and home trinkets and will send them by express.  What little stuff we leave behind in the way of crockery, cooking utensils, etc., the neighbors are welcome to.  I will give Calkins my shotgun and Charlie Barker <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:my banjo.  I have a pride in keeping up this diary to the last, and will write in it again next Sunday and carry it with me in my saddle bags.  We are going to have a blow-out at the Hotel de Paris Wednesday night, a sort of a farewell to those of our friends that we care to say good-bye to.  Marie and the landlady are arranging for it, and we will surely have a good feast.</p><P>JUNE 13, 1852.</p><P>--There are only six more blank pages in this book and I don't think I will fill them, neither will I start another one.  I don't think I have written anything here that I would be ashamed to have my wife read.  Pard has gone over it from start to finish and says that I ought to keep it until I am old and gray-haired.  Then it will take on a new meaning and I will regret those glorious days when "youth was mine."  I don't exactly catch his meaning, but it is certain that I shall look back to the old creek and the memories of it and its surroundings, and it will be a pleasant rememberance.</p><P>We had our dinner Wednesday evening and there were seventy-seven of us altogether, including the Saleratus Ranch boys and our neighbors.  Marie looked in and helped the landlady awhile.  There was real champagne, a couple of baskets of it, and before I knew it Pard had me by one arm and Marie by the other and the guests stood up and drank a toast to France and America and the pair whose prospective alliance would surely bring happiness to a representative of each country.  I was too embarrassed to speak and the champagne choked me--it was the first time I had tasted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:it--but Marie bubbled over with glee and said, "Oh! zey are ze good boys, and in our hearts we will nevair, no nevair, forget zem," and then she ran away and was seen no more that night.</p><P>After she had gone Pard got up and made what he called his confession.  He explained why he had taken the name of Anderson and, while he regretted the deceit, still there was no man in the world that he was ashamed to look in the face and he could only beg their pardon and return them a watch that did not bear his name.  You should have heard the shouting, everybody yelling: "No! No!  Keep it and we will give you another one," crowding around and grasping his hand, and then MacCalkins yelled out: "What's in a name, anyhow?"  Barker struck up:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"For he's a jolly good fellow."<LB></HI>
069.sgm:</p><P>And we made the old hotel ring.  Then we marched around the table, singing:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"For he was a dandy man,<LB>With his rocker, pick and pan,<LB>And it took him quite a while<LB>Before he made his pile."<LB></HI>
069.sgm:</p><P>I don't remember much more about it.  The table began to swim around, my head got dizzy.  Pard took me out in the air, helped me on my horse, and we started home.  My! I was sick on the way and the next morning my head ached to split.  If that is the way champagne makes one feel, I don't want any more of it.</p><P>Pard and I sat out under the old pine tree tonight for the last time--we will be busy to-morrow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:getting our traps into town--and neither one of us was in the best of spirits, although as far as we can see there is nothing but happiness ahead of us.  The moon beams shimmered down through the pine needles, the frogs croaked in the creek, a coyote barked up on the hill, the echo of the hoot of an owl drifted up from the trail.  We have listened to the same sounds every night for years, but somehow this evening it seemed as if they were all saying "Good-bye.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:<P>HERE THE DIARY ENDS.</p><P>(So we bid good-bye to Pard and Jackson, Marie and Hetty, Jack, the dog, and the donkey, to "ze good boys" of Rock and Brush Creeks.  The days of placer mining, as depicted in the diary, came to an end long ago, the glory of Selby Flat, that once "beat Nevada City in a Fourth of July celebration" has departed; even the patient Chinamen glean no more from the worked-out creeks, gulches and ravines.  The romance and the sordid facts are but dim memories and the Argonauts have gone to seek the golden fleece in the land just beyond the sunset.</p><P>They were good old days and when Jackson forgot to put his diary in the saddle bags he left for posterity a record unique and invaluable.  We have had a surfeit of the stoic gambler, uncouth miner, draggle-tailed courtesans and impossible school-mistresses.  These were inventions touched, distored and illuminated by Bret Harte's genius.  The later-day writers who attempt to reproduce this early life with their sentimental pathos are as far away from the spirit of the "Fifties" as mush and molasses from "Lobster a&acute; la Newburg."  While Jackson's narrative may not rank high as literature, he has given in his diary a faithful, accurate, and vivid picture, from the miner's point of view, of foothill mining life.  As he was writing it for his own amusement and not for posterity, the weaving into it of his romance is to be pardoned.  For myself, I confess that to me this has been one of its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:chief fascinations.  Its great interest, however, is the details we glean of the everyday life, of how much yellow dust the claim yielded, the growth of mining camps, the queer theories as to the genesis of gold, the incidents and happenings in town and country, the comedies and tragedies; these constitute history not to be found elsewhere.  Yet, to note the gradual development and mental growth of this New England Puritan, the intrusion of "the eternal feminine," the hesitation and doubt, the surrender and final culmination of it at the point most novelists end the final chapter, the marriage altar, surely that was a romance of the foothills.  However, all this had best be left to the reader.  I trust that he has been as much entertained in following Jackson's fortunes as I in deciphering and transcribing them from the blotted pages and faded ink of his old diary.</p><P>A final word.  Nevada pioneers will recall many of the men who figure in the diary.  John Hall, John Dunn, Henry Shively, Barker, the Calkinses, these were all Forty-niners, well known in local annals.  Niles Searls, Tom Williams, Frank Dunn, Stanton Buckner--whose dignity was so badly ruffled by "Rattlesnake Dick"--were members of the bar, and Zeno P. Davis, the gunsmith, was a familiar character.  The brick courthouse that was pronounced an extravagance because there would be no use for it after the gold gave out is replaced by a still more costly one.  The "Hotel de Paris" flourished until late in the sixties, and the quartz veins, so quaintly described as white rock with gold in it, are still yielding treasure.  Rock and Brush Creeks are overgrown and choked with growth of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:alder and willow, the pines that towered above the rude log cabin were felled long ago and a second growth takes their place, the old trails replaced by dusty highways; yet the coyotes bark, the frogs croak, and the owls hoot in chorus, as when Jackson interpreted it all as a "good-bye."  The flourishing mining camps that he visited, the euphonious "Red Dog," Cherokee, Humbug, Rough and Ready, You Bet, Coyoteville, and Blue Tent are but travesties of the old times; even "Lousy Level" is known no more.  I am sure we are indebted to Jackson in so far as his diary gives us a glimpse of those golden days.</p><P>Moved by a spirit of curiosity as to the later career of Jackson, I made inquiries by letter at his old home, Norfolk, Connecticut.  I did not get much information from my correspondent--woman, by the way--but enough to determine that Jackson did not return to tarry in that placid village.  She said that a family of Jacksons lived on Pond Hill, about a mile from the town, on a farm; that they had sold the property just before the war, left the State, and it was said that San Francisco was their destination.  They had a son who had made a fortune in California and had come back on a visit, accompanied by his wife, a foreign woman (mark the contempt of the phrase), and that was all she knew of the Jacksons.  She devoted a dozen pages to that interesting girl, Hetty North, which I will try to condense into as many lines.  The Norths were prominent people of Colebrook township.  Hetty was accomplished, her education was finished off in the Hartford Seminary, she played the melodeon, was a handsome, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:black-haired, black-eyed beauty, and had taught school at Colebrook Center.  In 1860 she married a prosperous farmer and then went, not exactly crazy, but eccentric; embraced spiritualism and all the other "isms" of the time.  Some four years before her death she took to her bed, although affected with no malady, and there she resolutely remained until her dying day.  In the light of this I think Jackson is to be congratulated on his escape, and I doubt not that he was far happier with the "foreign woman."  As for Anderson, it has been explained in a previous note that he became a leader in the State as a lawyer, politician, orator, and millionaire, and that for various reasons it is better that his identity should remain undisclosed.)</p><P>THE END</P> 
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069.sgm:<DIV><P>EPILOGUE.</p><P>The publication of "THE DIARY OF A FORTY-NINER" was interrupted and delayed by a catastrophe that for a brief time put aside all interest in literary matters.  On the morning of April 18 occurred the violent earthquake and the beginning of the fire, that within three days reduced San Francisco to ashes.  When the conflagration ceased the city had reverted almost to its original conditions, when, as the pueblo of Yerba Buena, it was a cluster of adobe houses and had not reached sufficient importance to be dignified by location on a map.  The compiler of "The Diary" had watched it from its earliest beginnings, through all its growth and transformation into an important city.  As the outlines of the hills and valleys that formed its site came into view and its desolation was realized, it came to the few left of us, old pioneers, how much we loved the place and with what sentiment we regarded it.  We did not mourn the destruction of the modern fourteen-story buildings, the big business blocks of later years, or the fine residences of the Western Addition; but there were old shacks, dilapidated houses, one-story shanties that had not given way to modern progress, and that told of the life of the old days.  When they were built we were young men, who in all of the ups and downs of the town, the fires that devastated it, the exodus to other fields where new gold discoveries had been made and which threatened to depopulate the city, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:the wane of gold products, wet seasons and dry seasons, had kept our faith in its ultimate grand destiny, and we saw our courage justified and our predictions close to fulfillment, when, a little rocking of the earth, and behold! it was blotted out.</p><P>In that fateful forty-eight seconds, numbed and paralyzed by the crash and wreck, the dull, sinister roar that seemed to be nature's threat to end all things, the menace that some malign power added as a dirge to the death throes of the world, there flitted through our brain the questioning thought as to whether it was a continental cataclysm, or a mere local disturbance.  Were the old Sierras shaken to their foundation and undergoing a remoulding such as characterized the era when her mighty rivers were buried a thousand feet deep in lava?  Was it another upheaval of the more recent Coast Range, or a new mountain-making process?  There was a tinge of regret, even in that moment of supreme peril, that the works of the upbuilder should come to naught.  It was local and the foothills are still there.  At least, us old boys, who counted in our memories as the red-letter days in our lives those we spent in the "Fifties" on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada range, had a harbor of refuge and it would not be much of a hardship if we were driven back to our early haunts.  To be sure, the ounce diggings were gone, the cabins had rotted away, the unsightly scars we had left when we had overturned the flats, bars and hillsides in our search for gold had taken on a new aspect, for nature, ever laboring to restore the original condition, had renewed the soil and replanted the barren wastes.  The balmy air, the swaying pines, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:the spreading oaks invited us to peace and the simple life.  Would it not be better to gather together what remained to us, get back to the foothills and pass the remainder of our days in idle contentment?  Of course, it was only a dream, although an alluring one, and none will desert the city in its extremity.</p><P>Sturdy Jackson and his old "Pard" are resting in Lone Mountain Cemetery and the overturning and shattering of their monuments did not disturb their slumber.  The city they helped to build is ashes and de&acute;bris, but their pioneer spirit still lives and animates their descendants, and doubtless the same steadfast purpose that created a prosperous commonwealth will be equal to the reconstruction of the destroyed city.  It will not be the "Bay," as we miners used to term it; that will live only in our memories for the brief time that we linger and in the legends and traditions passed on to our descendants.  The hurly-burly of the "Fifties," that strange mixture of discordant elements, that life that had almost resolved itself into its primitive beginnings, that levelling of social standards that put us all on an equality, the freedom from the thousand vexatious trammels of our modern business methods, the days of the circulation of the slug (a locally-coined gold piece valued at fifty dollars) and when our smallest coin was a two-bit piece, when strength and muscle counted for more than brains, when the scarcity of good women elevated them in our esteem to goddesses, to whom we paid a profound and sincere deference very much modified in these modern times--all of these characteristics vanished in the long ago and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:with the atmosphere that made San Francisco unique.</p><P>Since the earthquake it has been current comment that the city had reverted to "Forty-nine" conditions; but we old fellows know better than that.  There is not the least resemblance, except in one or two disastrous fires in '50 and '51 when we took on sackcloth and ashes for a brief time.  The ruins are picturesque in their desolation, but they are a mass of twisted iron beams, fallen brick and stone, tangled electric and telephone wires--all betraying modernity.  When we were burned out in the "Fifties" there were no de&acute;bris problems confronting us, there was nothing but ashes and the gentle trade winds that swept them into the bay.  Those who allude to the resemblance to a '49 camp are of the ilk that we term "Pullman Car Pioneers," who make their sightseeing pilgrimage on the restored trolley-car lines, or dash over the paved streets in automobiles where we plodded in mud ankle-deep or rode a bucking mustang across the drifting sandhills.</p><P>Glory be! the foothills are as firm on their granite base as in the days when, served by youth, we built our cabins beneath lofty sugar pines, baked our bread in the Dutch ovens, ate our primitively cooked meals on rough planked tables, smoked our pipes in the gathering twilight while we discussed with our neighbors the luck of the day, or took the trails for the nearest camp in search of relaxation and distraction from the monotony of our toil.  We fancied then that we were martyrs; that we were enduring hardships, exposure and wearisome banishment; that there were no compensations except "striking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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069.sgm:it rich," not realizing that we were having the "time of our lives," and that, in future years, we would like Jackson, evoke from out of the past pleasant recollections of the log cabin, the claim in the gulch and ravine, the care-free hours, when we accounted to no one either in the matter of our habits or our pleasures, when hospitality and good-fellowship were the rule, when nobody fawned on the rich or flouted the poor--yes, they were golden, unmatchable days, and when we old boys get together we are prone to grow garrulous and rather pity these young fellows, our descendants, who know nothing of that era of steamer days, of Broadway Wharf and the tide of sturdy humanity that gathered there every afternoon on its way to the mines, crowding the Sacramento and Stockton boats; of that favorite hostelry, the What Cheer house, where the majority of the visiting miners put up and which would not accept women as guests; of the hundred landmarks that have been swept away.  With them has gone all that made San Francisco dear to us; and, while we admire their courage, energy, fortitude and optimisim,--concede that they inherit the spirit that possessed and was typical of the "Argonaut,"--we shake our heads and bid good-bye to the last link of the golden age.  Our memories were of "when the water came up to Montgomery Street"; now our successors will date from the time "when the fire reached Van Ness Avenue."</p><P>C. L. CANFIELD.</p><P><HI REND="italics">San Francisco, Cal., August 1, 1906</HI>
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069.sgm:<P>The Riverside Press</p><P>CAMBRIDGE . MASSACHUSETTS</p><P>U.S.A.</p></DIV></BACK>
070.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-070</TITLE>
070.sgm:<TITLE>One man's gold; the letters and journal of a forty-niner, Enos Christman. Compiled and edited by Florence Morrow Christman: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
070.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
070.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
070.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
070.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
070.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
070.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>30-30332</LCCN>
070.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
070.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 30040</COPYRIGHT>
070.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>One Man's Gold</P>
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070.sgm:<illus entity="a070-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ENOS CHRISTMAN<LB>From a daguerreotype made in California in 1851.</P>
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070.sgm:<P>One Man's Gold</P>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Letters &amp; Journal of a Forty-Niner</HI>
070.sgm:<P>ENOS CHRISTMAN</P>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Compiled &amp; Edited by</HI>
070.sgm:<P>FLORENCE MORROW CHRISTMAN</P>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">New York</HI>
070.sgm:<P>WHITTLESEY HOUSE</P>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc</HI>
070.sgm:<P>1930</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1930, BY FLORENCE MORROW CHRISTMAN</P>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Published by</HI>
070.sgm:<P>WHITTLESEY HOUSE</P>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Trade Division of the</HI>
070.sgm:<P>MCGRAW-HILL BOOK COMPANY, INC.</P>
070.sgm:<P>370 SEVENTH AVENUE, NEW YORK</P>
070.sgm:<P>First Edition</P>
070.sgm:<P>PRINTED IN THE U. S. A.</P>
070.sgm:<P>BY THE QUINN &amp; BODEN COMPANY, INC., RAHWAY, N. J.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ACKNOWLEDGMENT</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>I wish to acknowledge my gratitude to ANN</P>
070.sgm:<P>LININGTON for her never-failing help and</P>
070.sgm:<P>encouragement in the making of this book.</P>
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070.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>The Contents</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>PART ONE<LB>The First Letter Bag<HSEP>3<LB>The Sea Journal -- 1<HSEP>10<LB>PART TWO<LB>The Second Letter Bag<HSEP>57<LB>The Sea Journal -- 2<HSEP>61<LB>PART THREE<LB>The Third Letter Bag<HSEP>87<LB>The California Journal -- 1<HSEP>104<LB>PART FOUR<LB>The Fourth Letter Bag<HSEP>159<LB>The California Journal -- 2<HSEP>169<LB>PART FIVE<LB>The Fifth Letter Bag<HSEP>209<LB>The Homeward Journal<HSEP>259<LB>PART SIX<LB>The Sixth Letter Bag<HSEP>271<LB>From the Pennsylvania Journal<HSEP>278</P>
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070.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>List of Illustrations</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>Enos Christman<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">The Europe<HSEP>Facing page</HI>
070.sgm: 24<LB>A Page from the Sea Journal<HSEP>76<LB>A Letter from Ellen Apple<HSEP>96<LB>The Gold Miner<HSEP>132<LB>"Killed in a Fracas with Gamblers"<HSEP>194<LB>"A Pretty Good Paper for the Place and Opportunities"<HSEP>228<LB>A Letter to Ellen from Enos Christman<HSEP>252</P>
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070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Foreword</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>The tin box had no air of mystery although it had stood for three-quarters of a century in a dark closet under the stairs of an old Pennsylvania house.  It was just a tin box--square-topped and high, double-padlocked and rusted.  Every one knew that all it contained was old letters and papers.  It had been designed by one who had gone adventuring, to guard the records of his journeyings.   But when his voice had become a memory, the old box was drawn from its corner, and again the dreams and the experiences of Enos Christman lived.</P>
070.sgm:<P>In the year 1849, Enos was a youngster of twenty, apprenticed to the Hon.  Henry S. Evans to learn the art, trade and mysteries of a printer in the <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Men from the four corners of the earth and from the seven seas flocked to the diggings and were swallowed in the great maelstrom which turned California within a few months from a quiet, peaceful land into a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>Announcements appeared in the newspapers, "All who are interested in the California expedition will meet at candlelight in the court house."  Gold seekers were organized into companies in every city, town and hamlet.  The California Gold Mining Association of Philadelphia was formed.  Many of the West Chester boys, stricken with gold fever, had left for the Sacramento shore.  Caught in the prevailing epidemic, his enthusiasm fired by the stories of riches to be dug from the sands, Enos joined the gold seekers.  Instead of crossing the plains in a covered wagon, where the dangers from Indians and the desert thirst deterred many, or taking his way across the deadly Isthmus of Panama, he chose the water route around Cape Horn, the longest route and probably the most dangerous, and set forth in a sailing vessel.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Enos was betrothed to Ellen Apple and it was for the love of Ellen, as well as for the love of adventure, that he went to look for gold.  He hoped to return to the States with his pockets full of gold and make her his wife.  And it was for Ellen that he kept a journal, as she had asked him to do.  He was an observer, a reporter, with an urge to write fostered by his training in the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>The journal was found in the old tin box.  It was yellowed with age and the ink of its closely written pages was faded.  Here, carefully packed away, were the love letters of Enos and Ellen, and a faint odor of must.  (There is nothing of love in the journal, for with Enos love and journals were two things, separate and apart.)  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:To make it very real, here were the miniatures, the "likenesses," which were made for keepsakes--"Ellen," in her poke bonnet, who had traveled many miles while "Enos" had reposed in Captain Apple's parlor.  There were letters from Peebles Prizer, Enos' friend and fellow apprentice in the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>The material seemed to possess a living spirit of its own which moved the mass toward the form into which it has been molded.  Care was taken to preserve the authenticity of the original documents, although they have been quite freely condensed and edited.  Often, material from the letters was put into the journal in order to avoid repetition, and occasionally the story was augmented from newspaper clippings found among its pages.  Some of the names that appear are now fictitious.  No twentieth century comment has been added to disturb the reality of the picture.</P>
070.sgm:<P>ONE MAN'S GOLD is Enos' book.  Enos was not a famous man, but he and Ellen and Prizer tell a story of the historic and romantic period in which they lived, faithfully from the point of view of their own generation.</P>
070.sgm:<P>FLORENCE MORROW CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<P>NEW YORK, N. Y.</P>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
070.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<HEAD>Part One<LB>THE FIRST LETTER BAG<LB>THE SEA JOURNAL--I</HEAD>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The First Letter Bag</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm:<LB>Jones Hotel, Philadelphia,<LB>Saturday, June 30th, 1849.</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Ellen:--We did not sail today as we anticipated when I last saw you, but expect to sail next Tuesday morning.  The longer the vessel delays now, the worse it will be for me.  Were it not for sweet hope in the future this trial would break me down; and this morning, as it is, my heart has been heavy.  Mr. Prizer is down here but will be at West Chester this evening and will give you this letter.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Last evening I was up to see your sister and I must return my thanks to you for the cordial welcome with which I was received.  She furnished me with a list which I found very valuable.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I had a daguerreotype likeness taken, which will be sent to you with this.  Take it, and may it ever be a source of comfort to you.  Should I have the good luck ever to return, I hope the mutual pledges given by us may be fulfilled, and believe me that I cannot change.  My feelings at parting now, you can better imagine than I can describe.</P>
070.sgm:<P>If I can write opposite New Castle, I shall.  And do not, on your part, fail to write frequently.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your likeness will be stored away in the safest place and the original, unless memory is false to her duty, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Ever yours,</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. C.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm: Office, July 1, 1849,<LB>Sunday, 5 o'clock P.M.</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Christman:--I have the gratifying announcement to forward to you that your old friend, DeWitt Clinton Atkins, will accompany you on your long journey.  I feel quite easy now in regard to you.  It will make a vast difference.  He will arrive in the city tomorrow morning, it being impossible for him to have his things ready before.  You will secure him passage and make all necessary arrangements to have him in your section, as this is the desire of the editor.  He will be a valuable member, as you want a mechanic along with you with his tools for building houses.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Everything looks natural in the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I had the pleasure of taking a walk last evening with Misses Apple and Bradshaw.  Ellen is a little sad.  It is a matter of surprise and admiration to observe the pure and innocent devotion she manifests towards you.  I know not what her feelings may be after a while; but I am confident that her love towards you now is as pure as an angel's.  I shall pay her every courtesy and render her every favor in my power.</P>
070.sgm:<P>My supper is ready and I must close.  Be pleased to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I will send this letter, containing one from Miss Apple, to you with Clinton.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Farewell,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<LB>West Chester, Pa.,<LB>July 1st, 1849.</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Enos:--I received your very interesting letter by Mr. Prizer and every word it contained made a deep impression on my heart.  It will be a pleasure to read it when you are in a distant land.  Hope is a cheering thing.  My greatest pleasure will be to look forward to the future when we shall meet again.  I was glad to hear the vessel is not going to sail until Tuesday as it will give you time to make such preparation as will be necessary to your comfort hereafter.  Be sure to take care of your health, for with it you can enjoy everything; without it you can enjoy nothing.  Money is a very convenient thing but if you should not be successful, do not be discouraged.  If you have your health and return to America, you will find even little West Chester large enough to make a comfortable living, for you have ambition and enterprise enough to earn a living where other people can.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I return many, many thanks for your likeness.  You could not have sent me anything which would have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I wish you would keep a journal of every day's transactions and when you write in it, tell particularly of your comforts, your privations, your seasickness, everything just as it is.  I expect there will be many changes in your absence, but I will endeavor to keep an account of them and when I write to you, give them all.</P>
070.sgm:<P>My sister came up in the steam car yesterday.  She told me she has regretted so much that she did not give you a few little things that are of no value in themselves, but which you could not obtain after you have left us.  She wishes you would go to her house and get a little bundle of old rags and some salve that will cure everything in the shape of a cut, bruise or burn, that she had for you, but felt a delicacy in offering.  And Sister <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>The news from the gold mines is certainly favorable.  No one doubts that there is plenty of gold there.  But do not forget what I told you, that gold cannot buy health.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Take a Bible with you which will be the best and most profitable book you can read, and trust in Providence for a safe return.  Now I must bid you a long and sad farewell.  It is hard to separate but I trust it is all for the best.  Lastly, I shall repeat that I wish you all the success, all the good luck, all the prosperity that has ever fallen to the lot of man.  And if all should fail, be not discouraged.  Hope for the best.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Miss Bradshaw, Mr. Prizer and I were out taking a little walk last evening.  I know you think nothing of that because he was a friend to me while you were here and I hope he will continue to be.  I am expecting him every moment to call for my letter, as he said he would put it in his envelope.  I remain,</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yours truly and sincerely,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm:<LB>Cabin of the <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm:, <LB>Delaware River, <LB>Wednesday, July 4, 1849.</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>Dearest Ellen:--We are now at anchor about five miles below Wilmington.  We have come this far on our voyage without meeting with anything particularly strange or surprising, except a capsized schooner and half a dozen men just above water floating upon her.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>It is a magnificent moonlight evening.  While our passengers are enjoying a dance aboard the steamer which tows us, I embrace the opportunity of writing to her I love.  I have just had a pleasant promenade on the deck of the steamboat, but I can tell you what would have made it much pleasanter--your company.  But I must not complain.  I knew the cost and have hazarded everything.  Your miniature proves a great source of comfort.  I have thought of you very often--I may say almost constantly.  Your letter breathes the true spirit and could I doubt the sincerity of your affection, I could also doubt that the world is in existence.  I can assure you that while remembrance lasts, you will not be forgotten.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I called at your sister's and obtained the salve and rags of which you spoke.  They seemed as anxious to fit me out as if I had been their brother and for this kindness I have you wholly to thank.  Return them my deepest gratitude.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I presume the Guards made a stir in West Chester this afternoon; I am sorry I could not spend the day with them, but I shall remember that I sailed for San Francisco on the Fourth of July, 1849, leaving all that's near and dear for yellow gold.  The steamboat will leave us in the morning, so this will be the last letter you are likely to receive from me for some months, as we do not expect to stop before we reach Valparaiso on the western coast of South America.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Since I have parted with my friends, I have been in very good spirits and felt very well.  Our bread is as hard as a brickbat and about as palatable but I made a very good breakfast on it notwithstanding.  It is navy bread, made of rye flour and bran.  The only thing I dread is seasickness and that will be fearful.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I have just been on deck to participate in the Captain's treat--brandy and cheese--and now my friends are making merry.  We have four violins on board besides quite a number of other musical instruments, so we will not suffer for want of harmony of sound.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You told me you had been walking with Prizer and said you knew I would think no harm of that.  I can answer and assure you that I would consider myself very ungenerous and selfish indeed if I had any objections to your walking with him or any other respectable person after having left you to be gone two or three years.  It pains me to know you think me so selfish.  Remember that it will be my pleasure to know that you are happy and enjoying yourself and it would not be reasonable to suppose you could do that if shut up in the house and not permitted to see any one.  Try to make yourself as happy as possible until my return and then it will be my happiness to study yours.  And what you have said to me in regard to care of health, apply to yourself, for health, after all, is the greatest of all blessings.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I am going ashore at New Castle and will take this with me.  I must bid you farewell, with the promise that I will write at the first opportunity.  I remain,</P>
070.sgm:<P>As ever yours,</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Sea Journal--I</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday</HI>
070.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">July 11th</HI>
070.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">1849</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Weeft Pine Street Wharf, Philadelphia, on Tuesday evening, July 3d, amid the shouts and cheers of assembled hundreds and anchored below the Navy Yard until next morning.  In order to complete some necessary repairs, we were detained in the Delaware River and Bay until Saturday afternoon , July 7th, when the steamer which towed us down the river left us at the Capes.  After passing the breakwater we soon lost sight of land, and as the green hills and trees disappeared, a melancholy sensation seized upon us as we reflected that this might be the last time we would be permitted to gaze upon the beautiful hills and vales of our native land.  This sensation soon wore away, however, as we came to look around and beheld nothing but the heaving ocean stretched out before us and the blue sky above.  This, to one unaccustomed to the like, was a sight at once grand and imposing.  Toward the end of the day, many of the passengers began to get seasick and I felt a little squeamish myself.  I turned in, however, early and slept soundly until morning, when I too was seized with the prevailing epidemic.</P>
070.sgm:<P>My feelings and emotions on leaving my friends and my native land on such an expedition, I cannot describe.  I have left all that is near and dear and turned my face towards a strange land, expecting to be absent two or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:three years, hoping in that time to realize a fortune; and then return and be greeted by kind friends.  And this hope is my greatest consolation and comfort.  Often memory carries me back to the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>The ship is owned and fitted out by G. W. Hathaway &amp; Co., of Philadelphia.  They advertised accommodations for first and second cabin passengers, the former at $200 and the latter at $160.  Thirty of the passengers are members of the California Gold Mining Association of Philadelphia, of which I am one, as well as my friend, DeWitt Clinton Atkins.  They are as merry a set of fellows as ever sailed.  Our Association engaged 2d cabin passage with Mr. N. B. Finley, the agent of Hathaway &amp; Co., and by him they were assured that they would be furnished the same fare as the first cabin passengers, and that the difference in price was made in consequence of the first cabin passengers being furnished with everything, while the lower cabin passengers furnished their own bedding and table furniture, and occupied the cabin between decks.  A contract was drawn up enumerating the articles and quantity of food to be allowed each one in the lower cabin.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Our Association is divided into five sections.  I am director of Section No. 5 which consists of six men.  We each paid thirty dollars and purchased the following for use after arrival in San Francisco: 3 bbls. pilot bread, 2 do. pork, 1/2 do. beef, 1 do. beans, 1 do.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>My personal outfit I bought with the money furnished me by Mr. Evans upon my departure.  He is to receive fifty per cent of my earnings for two years after my arrival in California, in payment for the outfit as well as for six months' service which I owe him as apprentice.  I have everything I can think of and over fifty dollars of my own in my pocket.  As near as I can recollect at this time, the following comprises what I have brought with me: One government rifle, one navy pistol, one small rifle pistol, belt for same; six lbs. powder, six lbs. balls, 1,500 caps, large bowie knife, 17 pairs new heavy pantaloons, 12 new flannel shirts, 18 new checked shirts, five white muslin shirts, seven coats, five waistcoats, six new cotton neck cloths, 8 pairs of boots, shoes and slippers, four hats and caps, 18 pairs stockings, one nightcap, combs, brushes; ten lbs. of lead for casting bullets, six jars of pickles, one bottle of blackberry syrup, one lb. essence of beef, box of fresh water soap, do. of salt water, 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, peppermint, camphor, sulphur and brimstone, laudanum, twine, ropes, shaving apparatus, table knife, fork, spoon, plate, tin cup, iron frying pan, wash basin, etc.; a variety of books and stationery; bed and bedding, a bundle of rags and a box of all-healing salve.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Should I ever ship again I would take the following additional articles: Two or three dozen of mineral water, box of raisins, and a few other delicacies for use during seasickness.  In addition to the articles mentioned in the foregoing list, I have taken a gallon of best fourth-proof brandy which I intend as medicine and for emergencies.  We have given up to our Captain, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We have about fifty-one passengers on board, among whom are six lady passengers, one little boy three years old and one infant at its mother's breast.  Three of the ladies are in our cabin. This will add much to our social comforts, for without the smiles of woman nothing can prosper.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Today the passengers are all busily engaged in curing a lot of cabbage bought for their own convenience.  Our fare is pretty hard, but as we are not quite regulated yet, more of this anon.  I believe I am the only male passenger out of over forty who is free from the vice of using tobacco, either smoking or chewing.  Some play cards or dominoes to while away the time.  All, I believe, are supplied with books and many are commencing journals.  All are disposed to minister to the comfort of others.  So far we have progressed as a band of brothers and have had a delightful passage except that many of us have been seasick.  DeWitt and I were miserable, indeed, but are recovering slowly.  One of the sailors on board who had been sick and in a melancholy mood stabbed himself in the breast.  He was taken on shore at New Castle, Delaware, and sent to Philadelphia.  We fear he cannot recover.</P>
070.sgm:<P>On the evening of the Fourth of July, the Declaration of Independence was read by R. C. Stocton.  Fiddling and dancing accompanied by drinking were kept up nearly all night.  Next day some of the passengers, in consequence of the proceedings of the previous night, slept nearly all day.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We have not yet spoken a vessel and feel as if we were a little isolated community floating all alone on the broad bosom of the Atlantic, but we raised our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Following our vessel are quite a number of birds resembling our common barnswallow, called Mother Carey's chicks, which, it is said, will follow us until we reach Cape Horn.  While in the river we espied numerous sturgeons jumping out of the water, displaying their full length.  Since we have come into the Atlantic we have seen many porpoises which appear about as large as full-grown hogs--the best comparison I can make, never having seen one except as they rise on the surface of the water.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, July 21st</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Several of the passengers have been attacked again with seasickness; among the number, friend Atkins and myself.  I undertook to make some soup out of essence of beef, but not being able to obtain boiling water was not very successful.  Atkins ate some of it notwithstanding.  He is rapidly recovering and ate a hearty dinner tonight of codfish and potatoes.  As I am still unable to eat, I have consulted the doctor.  Many others are still on the sick list.  Our first steward has been so bad that little hope was entertained for his recovery, but I am now happy to say that under the treatment of Dr. Harris, he is slowly recruiting.  We have found the weather quite warm enough without our coats, in this respect much pleasanter than on shore.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We had made about 1,200 miles southeast of Philadelphia in a strong, fair wind, and hoped soon to change our course to a more southern direction, but quite a calm followed and the water continued as smooth as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We have seen thousands of dolphins, but up to this time have been able to catch only two.  One was harpooned by a sailor, the other caught with a hook and line.  The largest was rather larger than a fine shad.  They are without scales and are said to be very good eating.  An effort was made to harpoon some porpoises, but without success.  We saw hundreds of them, also five grampuses, or young whales, somewhat heavier than a horse.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The water of the ocean appears of a dark blue.  When taken up in a basin it is as clear as can be, but very salty and cannot be used for cooking purposes.  It would be amusing to some of our old washer-women to witness us washing our clothes and putting them out to dry.  I used to deem it play, but recent experience in washing, in salt water and without soap, has taught me to appreciate the feelings for which the ladies are proverbial on a washing day. I made my de&acute;but in washing clothes while on the Delaware River. This morning I made my second effort since leaving Philadelphia, and I have just examined my clothes and find them not quite clean.  I expect to be an expert hand at the business by the time I reach San Francisco.  Many did their washing today and are now taking in their clothes.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Many of the passengers who are expert swimmers enjoyed themselves by bathing in the open ocean.  A canvas was put out, giving those who could not swim an opportunity to bathe.  Mr. Holland, the President <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>This afternoon a slight wind sprung up and we are now moving along quietly.  In the distance there are two vessels.  Perhaps we may speak one of them.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July 25th</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--About one o'clock Saturday night one of the vessels came near to us and we spoke her.  She was a Danish brig, from Santa Cruz to Copenhagen.  Five different sails were in sight in the morning, apparently bound in the same direction that we are, but they left us towards evening.  The Captain accounts for our meeting so many vessels all at once by saying that in case of a calm, vessels will come together at some certain point.  On account of contrary winds and calm we were enabled to make but little or no progress on our way, being driven too much in a northeastern direction, but the wind has now veered around to the northwest, just the direction we have been wanting it, and our course is now southeast.  We have had several showers.  The sky was covered with clouds in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday the Association held a meeting and each member secured the professional services of Dr. Harris for two years by paying one dollar and sixty-three and a half cents.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We have seen a number of small flying fish.  I suppose they derive their name from the fact that they rise up out of the water and fly along over its surface for hundreds of yards, and then dart under the waves again.  They are a great curiosity.  They seem to use their fins as wings.  About twilight a large school of grampuses came floating lazily toward us, sporting within a few rods of the vessel.  They would weigh, I suppose, from eight hundred to a thousand pounds each.  It was quite diverting to see these huge monsters of the deep jump six or eight feet out of the water and then come down with a tremendous splash.  The passengers have been successful in taking two large dolphins by hook and line.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The moon now shines until bedtime and adds greatly to the beauty of the evening.  Sometimes I lie on deck in reverie, viewing her sweet countenance and thinking I can almost hold communion with loved ones left behind.  I have just been out on the forecastle and listened to a number of sentimental songs by the sailors.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We are now in latitude 35 deg. N. and longitude 51 deg. W.--observation taken by the moon, though usually taken by the sun.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I fear that ere morning I shall feel under the weather.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July 29th</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--I was sick, very sick, but feeling better, I ate a very hearty breakfast of fresh bread, the first we have had since leaving the Capes.  I was hungry at supper last night, but could not eat our mush, which had been about half boiled for breakfast and then warmed instead of fried for supper. </P>
070.sgm:<P>I am sorry we have not a clergyman on board for if it would do no other good, it would at least give us a little variety and drive the dull sameness of every day away, at least once a week.  However, we have plenty of good stories told, and some talk is made of establishing a debating society.  I hope it will be done.  It would not only afford amusement, but also an opportunity for improvement.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We are getting along very handsomely on our course, making 4 to 6 knots per hour and 153 miles in the last 24 hours.  Two vessels were in sight yesterday but they distanced us in the afternoon.  Another vessel in sight this morning neared us towards noon.  We hoisted our flag and she did likewise.  We flew up our name and she raised hers.  Presently she came within speaking distance and crossed our bows.  Our Captain had stationed himself at a proper place, with his speaking trumpet, and hailed her with, "Where bound?"  She answered, "California."  "Where you from, pray?"  "Boston."  "How long out?"  "Twelve days--with fair wind."  She asked us similar questions and was answered.  Her name was <HI REND="italics">John Parker</HI>
070.sgm:.  She then gave us three cheers and we returned six.  She had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>It will be a long while before I forget that Monday is the day of all others in the week for work in the old <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, August 3d</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Early this morning the dog belonging to Mr. Devine was taken with a fit as if mad, and this being observed by Mrs. Devine, she seized her by the throat and threw her overboard.</P>
070.sgm:<P>It is now just one month since we left Philadelphia and we are not yet 2,000 miles from there.  If we do not progress faster hereafter it will take us about eight months to reach San Francisco.  We are now getting into the Trade Winds, latitude 28 deg. and longitude 39 deg., and hope to make much better progress.  The Captain tells us we will see no more seaweed, which has been very abundant, until we get in latitude 18 deg. S.  We expect to cross the Equator in about two weeks.  The weather has been remarkably cool and pleasant, nothing like as oppressively hot as July and August usually are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I have repacked my trunk and placed camphor in all the woolen clothing, and have done my first mending.  I flatter myself it was as well done as any "knight of the Goose" could have done it.  We pared our onions and put them in a barrel to pickle.</P>
070.sgm:<P>About half a dozen of our passengers appear to be inveterate rum drinkers.  Last night they raised a fuss among themselves and annoyed all well-disposed persons by their boisterous conduct.  This morning one of them made his appearance decorated with a black eye.  He fell out of his hammock.  It is highly probable that these worthies will be placed on shore at the first port we stop unless they mend their ways.  They have been intoxicated nearly half of the time since leaving port.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Another week on the Atlantic is ending and here we might pause and with wisdom reflect on the future.  Our greatest pleasure now would be once more to place our feet on beloved <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, August 16</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Last evening a number of the second cabin passengers, myself included, took a sociable glass and then another, and the dose was repeated until we got on a "regular bust."  Three poor fellows were entirely overcome and prostrated.  The party kept up until long after the noon of night, but we all, with the exception of one, made our appearance at the breakfast table to stay our eager appetites.  This has been my first frolic since leaving home and, as I can't say they are of much benefit, it will most probably be my last.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The day was ushered in with an accident to one of our Association, Mr. James Monroe, who was precipitated down the steps with the coffee pot full of coffee.  The coffee was spilled and scalded his right arm and hand from the elbow down.  Sweet-oil and turpentine were immediately applied and it is now doing quite well.  A rumpus was raised at the breakfast table which came near resulting in a fight.  One of the passengers seized the coffee pot out of another's hand in a very rude manner.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We crossed the Tropic of Cancer in damp and disagreeable weather, and are now in the Trade Winds.  Our old ship rocked so we could not stand without holding fast to something, and interfered considerably with locomotion.  The trunks in our cabin got rolling about and stirred up a great muss.  A jar of pickles was broken.  We made 163 miles in 24 hours.  Many of the passengers were very seasick.  We removed our trunks and washed our cabin, not before the sailors had refused the Captain's request to cleanse it, however, and we had no other remedy.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I saw two birds about the size and appearance of our whippoorwill, but I am unable to learn their name.  Doyle is reported to have <HI REND="italics">beat his wife</HI>
070.sgm:.  I have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Last night the ocean presented a very singular and beautiful appearance, being covered with floating islands of a bright substance called <HI REND="italics">Medus&aelig; Pelucen</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, August 29</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We have been <HI REND="italics">blessed</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding our nearness to the Equator, this has been the coldest day we have experienced since leaving port.  Indeed it is so cold that many have brought out their overcoats, and they are quite comfortable.  We now have bid farewell to many of the stars visible at home, among others the North Star.  The "pointers" can be seen early in the evenings.  They soon disappear below the horizon but we are repaid for the absence of these by the appearance of others not visible in our northern latitude.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have just witnessed a somewhat novel sight--four of the passengers playing euchre with dominoes by moonlight.  I sold a quart of brandy for $1.50.  Some cheese and a cup belonging to Mr. Sterling are missing.  The cup is said to be in the possession of one of the sailors.  I have been seasick again and suffered severely from headache today.  We had fresh bread for breakfast.  It is promised twice a week hereafter.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, September 9</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We crossed the Equator Friday, August 31st, in longitude 23 deg. W.  In the evening, pursuant to custom, old Neptune and his assistants made their appearance, dressed in the most grotesque style, and every one on board had to stand treat or be "shaved."  The shaving consists in having tar and oil rubbed over your face and scraped off with an old knife or file, not a very pleasant operation, by the way.  Much sport was had on this occasion, but I missed it, as well as the "shaving," on account of severe illness--confined to my berth.  I have been sick with the fever which rendered my situation very bad.  I have just been on deck, the first time for days.  Since my recovery from the fever, my head is getting better and I hope to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Friday we made 208 miles, the best run we have made.  I saw a large turtle this morning.  A few of Mother Carey's chickens have been following in our wake since crossing the line but have now left us.  A fair wind is blowing but the weather is rather fickle; we have had alternate sunshine and showers--three rainbows, one in the morning and two towards evening.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Dick, Mack, Tilghman &amp; Co. had a frolic aloft and, after emptying the bottles, threw them on deck, which came near creating a serious disturbance.  Also a duel was nearly had between Dick and the doctor.  <HI REND="italics">Rick, vez</HI>
070.sgm:<P>There is nothing to be seen from one end to the other but a dreary waste of blue sky above and rolling water below.  Yet this is what has so often been pictured as something beautiful to look upon, and entertaining to be tossed about upon.  But notwithstanding all that has been said of its charms, its novelty is now over and it hath no charms any longer for me.  It is nearly ten weeks since we left port.  Truly a long while to see nothing but sky and water and our own good ship, and yet it will be a long while again before we reach port.  I am tired of it and wish to be on shore, and there are others who are as anxious in this respect as myself.  "But there's a good time coming, boys."  We'll push <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<illus entity="a070-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"SKY AND WATER AND OUR OWN GOOD SHIP" Engraving of <HI REND="italics">The Europe</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>During the past two weeks, in lieu of fresh-baked bread twice a week we have been receiving buckwheat cakes and corn bread every alternate morning.  The cakes, to be sure, are not nice, light, round cakes, but large, square ones an inch thick, and baked in a pan of fat instead of on a bake plate, yet we count it "high living" and devoutly pray that it may continue during the remainder of the voyage, as one "good" meal a day is not to be sneezed at.  It would do our friends good to witness the eagerness with which these "delicate" dishes are devoured.  When breakfast time arrives a rush is made and the plates are soon emptied, and woe to the poor wight who happens to get behind, for he is sure to go without breakfast and unless it happens to be "duff day," Thursday or Sunday, he has but a poor relish for anything until the next breakfast is brought forward.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Our latitude is 18 deg. S.  This morning we sounded for bottom to the depth of 70 fathoms but found none.  We are now in the neighborhood of a bank or shoals called "Adois," I think, and about 200 miles from shore.  I saw a dead duck floating along.  We have stopped a leak in the head of the vessel.</P>
070.sgm:<P>After dinner, the brig <HI REND="italics">Howland</HI>
070.sgm: came within hailing distance.  He told us that he was 45 days from Boston to Rio de Janeiro, also that he spoke the brig <HI REND="italics">Virginia</HI>
070.sgm: a few days since, 60 days from New Orleans to California.  We told him we were from Philadelphia, 60 days outbound to California, gave him our longitude as he did his--his 36 deg. 12[min] W., our own 36 deg. 10[min] W.--and requested him to report in the States, the ship " <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm: --all well," and then parted with six <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:round cheers for the Yankee captain.  One of the men on their forecastle cheered with such great earnestness that we witnessed him spring into the air some three or four feet and come down, sprawling on his <HI REND="italics">latter end</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I just saw one Mother Carey's chicken.  They appear to be found almost everywhere in the ocean.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, September 21</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We have crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.  The sea has been exceedingly rough and I have not felt like writing.  The way the vessel rocked from side to side and rattled the dishes and trunks was a caution to Davy Crockett.  It has been impossible for many of the passengers to sleep as we were one moment with the feet up and the next with the head.  All kinds of furniture in the cabin were being dashed and rolled about in beautiful style.  The wind increased until it blew quite a gale, howling and whistling through the rigging as on a bleak December morning.  The ocean roared and dashed as though the Furies were waked up within her, yet our good old ship glided over it like the swift courser over the smooth and level surface.  We find our cabin very comfortable, much more so than the upper one, and now during the evening our table is crowded by readers and card players.  Our thickest woolens are in requisition.  Two vessels came near us, but owing to the roughness of the sea, we could hold no communication with them.  We signalled them, however, and as they displayed the Spanish flag, a yellow strip with one of red on each side, we supposed them from the Mediterranean bound to Rio de Janeiro.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Early this morning it commenced raining very hard and the storm continued with great violence.  The waves piled mountain high, rocking the vessel so as to make it very difficult to stand on deck, and ever anon dashing over her sides, completely deluging her.  About supper time a very heavy sea struck her, emptied the tables of their furniture and started nearly every trunk in our cabin rolling as if life were quickly instilled into it.  Mr. Devine was thrown on deck and, in falling, caught hold of the binnacle, tearing it away and breaking the oval glass and the compass, but fortunately without hurting himself.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Some days since, scores of whale birds presented themselves and remained during the day.  We caught over a dozen.  They are of a dark color, about three feet from tip of wing to tip, have a white ring round neck and eye, crooked bill, toes united in a web, with claws at the end of each.  They alight in the water and swim and dive like ducks.  They live on fish and whatever they can catch.  It was quite a novel idea to us land-lubbers to see them alight near the vessel and pick the baited hook, and then be hauled up on deck.  It is singular that they cannot rise up off the deck and fly away.  All the old seamen told us they were unfit for use, notwithstanding which we had them cooked and found them to be quite palatable.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This afternoon after the rain had ceased, birds being still quite numerous around us, the passengers took out their lines and were successful in taking a gony, a species of duck, perfectly white except over the back and wings, and measuring over six feet across the wings.  The gony was skinned for the purpose of preserving the pelt with the down on.  Being pronounced unfit to eat, the body was quartered and given to the pigs.  Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Clint and I did our washing today and a hard job it was.  I rubbed the "bark" off my fingers.  We expect that it will be too cold to wash again until we reach Valparaiso.  Dick and Mack were drunk this afternoon.  They each lost a hat.  This evening a court was established and the case of C. Yard vs. Jeremiah, alias Jas. A. Rogers, came up for trial.  The defendant was charged with wrongly taking Mr. Yard's stool out of his berth, thereby endangering a certain glass case.  <HI REND="italics">Judge</HI>
070.sgm: Price presided and there was much merriment over the occasion.  Tomorrow evening was appointed for the trial of Messrs.  Hathaway <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
070.sgm:<P>(Among our passengers is a couple just married before leaving port, Mr. and Mrs. Bates.  It is a significant fact that she is now manufacturing <HI REND="italics">little clothes</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, September 30</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--I have on two pairs of heavy pants, three pairs stockings, two shirts--and yet scarcely feel comfortable.  I put a large patch on my pantaloons, and I flatter myself that it was very well done.  As the sun shone with pleasing brightness, the sunny side of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We have had delightful moonlight evenings but the air was most too sharp to enjoy them properly.  While the weather was pleasant and the sea smooth, we repaired to the deck in the evening and mingled in the mazy dance, or listened to the charming notes of the violin.  Now that the weather has become cold, we have opened a theatre in the second cabin and "Macbeth" was played with great effect amid thunders of applause from a crowded house, many of the first cabin passengers being present.  Mr. McCowan constituted the orchestra.  We have also had a series of Shakespearean readings by Mr. Rogers, accompanied by the discordant sounds of two horns, clapping of hands, stamping and shouting.</P>
070.sgm:<P>It is a singular fact that some of the passengers have become so infatuated in the passion for cards that they play from sunrise till bedtime.  A stove was raised in the front cabin, and the table has been occupied by card players.  This evening a merry trio, a lady (?) among them, played euchre.  It is not my province to moralize, but here is a text that might be enlarged upon, though I suppose they have adopted the maxim of some of our New England fathers, "that Sabbath ends at sundown."</P>
070.sgm:<P>Last evening two of the passengers, a lady and a gentleman, took a "leveling party" and were so drunk they could hardly stand and were carrying on at a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Our largest porker was slaughtered Thursday.  It was in pretty good order, and we were promised a dinner on fresh meat, quite a delicacy.  When the hour arrived a tremendous rush was made for the table but we were disappointed in our anticipations, as the pig killed was for the especial benefit of first cabin.  However, two porkers were killed yesterday and one of them, about as big as a full-grown cat, was promised for our cabin today.  We had a good pork sea pie.  The second cabin passengers all arose from the table with gratified appetites and smiling faces, which with us is a very rare occurrence.  Deep, low mutterings usually ensue after meals, and not without cause, as this is an almost intolerable place as far as table luxuries are concerned.  Our bread now contains worms half an inch in length, and is a little musty--a hard story, but nevertheless true--and our duff is very badly cooked, not better than mere dough heated.  Complaint was made to the Captain and he gave us directions to flog the cook <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The moon shines brightly and the sky is studded with here and there a bright star.  All seems peace and glory, unlike the turbulent waters of the ocean and the yet more turbulent spirits upon the <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, October 5</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--After being nearly becalmed, with the sails flapping against the masts, a fair wind has sprung up and we are making direct for the Strait of Le Mair, which separates Staten Land or Island from Tierra del Fuego.  But not having reached the point wished for at sunset, the Captain has determined to pass around to the east of Staten Island.  At six o'clock P.M. we were 36 miles from land.  All eyes were eagerly directed shoreward, many asserting that they could discover it.  Some said they had a very indistinct view of what they supposed to be a small mountain on Staten Island.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We are in the vicinity of whales.  For several hours, while the sea was smooth, we were literally surrounded by whales, some of them of enormous size.  Three came within a few feet of the vessel, giving us a good view of them, the largest of which would measure at least forty feet and perhaps sixty or more.  To us landsmen it was a pleasing sight, and notwithstanding that we had all read and heard of their vast size, we were all thrown aback and filled with surprise, the largest elephants turning into mere pigmies when compared to these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>While sitting on the bow of the vessel, I observed various miniature rainbows reflected in the water, caused by the bright sun striking the spray as it dashed from the bow of the ship.  We have not seen any flying fish for some time, nor will we until we have warmer weather, for as cold weather approaches they disappear.  We were again greeted with seaweed, the first we have seen in latitude 18 deg. N., I think, although of a different species, being a vine with long, broad leaves upon it.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Last night a party of the "owlers" made fire in the stove which the Captain had purposely extinguished, and cooked sundry dainty dishes.  But they were disturbed and nearly discovered by the unexpected appearance of the Captain, some of them having to decamp with various baggage under their coats.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, October 11</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Our old tub has been rolling in a manner making it difficult to write.  On Monday a fair wind came up which increased to a gale towards evening when we "lay to" under "bare poles," except the "main topsail" which was "closereefed."  With contrary winds so that we could not make an inch on our course, we lay to in sight of another vessel, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The sea became in a measure quieted.  However, on Tuesday we rolled too much to have the table set at dinner, each man taking his pork and bread in his hand and practicing on the motto that fingers were made before forks.  After dark the wind rose again and snow fell in heavy squalls.  We saw a large whale under the stern of the ship while the waves were dashing around us.  Some played checkers, while the ladies favored us with several good songs and among the best, "Home Sweet Home."</P>
070.sgm:<P>Three vessels came in sight, one of which we spoke on Wednesday, the whaler <HI REND="italics">Edward</HI>
070.sgm:, of New Bedford, Massachusetts; while one of the others hoisted her colors and thus let us know she was American.  They each carried considerably more sail than we have heretofore.  To be even, our Captain ordered the canvas to be set, and we have made good time.  It appears that we outsailed all the vessels, which is the first occurrence of the kind, and has raised the <HI REND="italics">Europe's</HI>
070.sgm: reputation at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We have not seen a paper since leaving the States, and hence we know nothing of what has occurred during that time at home or abroad.  The whole earth might be revolutionized and we would be none the wiser; and the prospect is that we will have but little opportunity of knowing much for some time to come.</P>
070.sgm:<P>A distribution of the balance of the money in the hands of the President, from the contribution at New Castle, Delaware, took place, the dividend amounting to 23 cents to each member.  A few gonies and numerous Cape pigeons have followed us entirely round the "Horn." This evening the barometer indicates an approaching storm.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, October 21</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--A tremendous wave struck the vessel Tuesday morning, covering the deck with several feet of water and rolling some of the passengers from side to side, ducking them most thoroughly.  The same wave rolled a volume of water down the hatchway, covering the greater part of our cabin with three to six inches, which floated some of the trunks about and wet some of their contents.  Since shipping the heavy sea, the hatch to our cabin has been left closed.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>As we were lying to Wednesday night, another tremendous wave struck us about 12 o'clock, making the good old ship quiver like a wounded bird, and twisting our rudder into splinters like a broom.  This was not felt until morning, and when the announcement was made that we were without a rudder, terror and despair were pictured upon the countenances of many, while others treated it with rather unbecoming levity.  The Captain thought seriously of endeavoring to get back to Montevideo, or Rio de Janeiro, but upon consultation with his officers he was dissuaded from this course, and made a determined effort to reach Valparaiso.  By the valuable assistance of several passengers who are carpenters, the rudder was temporarily fixed.  Our experience around "these diggin's" would almost induce us to believe that nothing prevails but gales or dead calms, rain or snow, and but very little sunshine.  Snow showers have been almost a daily occurrence, and the decks continually wet with rain and snow, making it very disagreeable.  After a gale which carried away our spanker sheet and rocked the vessel, we found ourselves in a dead calm, when the smoothness of the sea enabled R. Taylor, who volunteered his services, to mend our rudder in such a manner that it may now be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Friday morning the startling announcement was made that on account of this continual tossing about by the storms and waves, we had unexpectedly lost about 1,400 gallons of water out of a large square iron tank and as a consequence, the passengers would be allowed but <HI REND="italics">one quart</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Pagan worshippers never clung closer to their idols than we now do to our bottles and it need not be wondered at for they constitute our all.  Some of us have often been pinched with thirst without the wherewith to quench it.  It has become a saying that misfortunes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>As we go north, quite a sensible difference for the better is felt in the atmosphere.  Two of the seamen show symptoms of the scurvy, but it is hoped it will not get bad.  A very fine sea pie was made and was enjoyed by us all today, though the porkers slaughtered were poor and lean.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This evening Rogers read a chapter in the Bible, as well as an excellent tract, to which great attention was paid by all, even some upper cabin passengers, except Messrs.  Marvin, Paine, H. and Mrs. H.  But I am glad to say that they are the only persons who thus break in upon and transgress all moral as well as divine law.  They were even boisterous enough to interfere with the reading.  Last evening songs were sung, among others "Billy Taylor."  We had fiddling and later in the night the "owlers" commenced operations and had a merry spree, keeping up their noisy revels until two o'clock this morning.</P>
070.sgm:<P>BILLY TAYLOR<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
070.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">From late eighteenth century sheet music.  Copied from "Journal of the Folk-Song Society," Vol. V, 1914-1917, London.</NOTE>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Billy Taylor was a brisk young fellow,<LB>Full of fun, and full of glee,<LB>And his mind he did discover<LB>To a lady fair and free.<LB>Four and twenty brisk young fellows<LB>Drest they were in rich array<LB>And they took poor Billy Taylor,<LB>Whom they press'd and sent to sea.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<LB>And his truelove follow'd after<LB>Under the name of Richard Car,<LB>Her lilly-white hands were bedaub'd all over<LB>With the nasty pitch and tar.<LB>Now behold, the first engagement<LB>Bold she fought among the rest<LB>Till the wind did blow her jacket<LB>And discovered her lilly-white breast.<LB>When that the captain came for to view it<LB>Says he, "What wind has blown you here?"<LB>"Sir, I be come to seek my truelove<LB>Whom you press'd I love so dear."<LB>"If you be come to seek your treasure<LB>Tell to me his name, I pray."<LB>"Sir, his name is Billy Taylor<LB>Whom you press'd and sent to sea."<LB>"If his name is Billy Taylor,<LB>He is both cruel and severe,<LB>For rise up early in the morning<LB>And you'll see him with his lady fair."<LB>With that she rose up early next morning,<LB>Early by the break of day,<LB>And there she saw bold Billy Taylor<LB>Dancing with his lady gay.<LB>With that she called for sword and pistol,<LB>Which did come at her command,<LB>And there she shoot bold Billy Taylor<LB>With his truelove in his hand.<LB>When that the captain came for to know it<LB>He very much applauded her for what she had done,<LB>And immediately made her the first lieutenant<LB>Of the glorious <HI REND="italics">Thunder Bumb</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, October 23</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--A very turbulent sea has prevented our piling on the canvas.  In the course of ten minutes we have had rain, hail, snow and sunshine.  This afternoon a penguin kept floating round the ship a long time.  This was the first penguin I ever saw and as it came up to the surface of the water appeared very much like a guinea in form and of a dark greenish color.  They are covered with feathers and have short wings but cannot fly.  The greatest peculiarity about them is the tail which is perpendicular with the body, like a fish, and answers the purpose of a rudder.  While we were watching it, a wave broke over and gave me, with several others, a good drenching.  Mr. Sterling caught a bird, as large as our common goose, and had it broiled.  It was pronounced very good.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The younger Stocton and Tilghman being drunk this afternoon, the latter was for making disturbances with several of the passengers and at length succeeded in insulting the doctor.  The lie was given on both sides and succeeded by blows, but the assailants were parted and neither was much hurt.  Tilghman was threatened with handcuffs by the Captain.  This appeared to have a good influence, for soon after he was quieted.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Last evening a noisy, drunken crowd commenced and kept on until the noon of night, soon after which a tragedy or farce was enacted which will require some explanation to make it intelligible to those who did not witness it.  Mr. H. and lady occupy a stateroom in the after-part of our cabin.  Mr. H., being one of the revellers, was pretty well "how come you so," and lay behind the stove in the upper cabin a little while.  He then came down and got into Atkins' berth where he lay a few minutes, and then into Mr. J.'s, and being routed out of the latter place, he lay on the floor near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>This tragical affair was further examined into today, but resulted in nothing but the exculpation of the individual charged, and established beyond doubt that it was nothing but a farce, designed to remove the bad impressions created by the lady's former unbecoming conduct.  The blood on the dagger is accounted for from the fact that two gonies were caught and slain by Mr. H. in the afternoon.  For fear that something more serious may grow out of this affair, a regular watch has been formed at the request of the Captain, by the lower cabin passengers, to serve each two hours.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Within the last three or four days several hats and caps have been lost overboard.  In fact, our course could almost be marked out by the caps that have been lost.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, October 29</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--The wind dead head against us for two days carried us back again to the latitude of the Horn.  On Thursday a vessel that had been seen in the distance, came up to us about noon.  It proved to be the <HI REND="italics">John Parker</HI>
070.sgm: of Boston.  He told us they had a rough time of it round the Horn, and were now on short allowance of water.  This is the same vessel we spoke when only about three weeks out; by this it will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>During a storm Saturday night our rudder again gave way and required some time to render it useful next morning.  This morning the wind died away and as the sun rose, shedding forth his welcome rays, the sea was as calm and smooth as a pretty maiden's cheek.  Soon after, a fair wind sprung up and towards evening increased to a gale accompanied by heavy rain, rendering it necessary for us to lay to or run the risk of again losing our rudder.  The early part of the day was the most agreeable we had had for about four weeks, and the decks were dry for the first time during that period.</P>
070.sgm:<P>All hands have again been engaged catching water with tin cup or bottle, off every spar and rope, wherever a drop would run down.  But very little of the water caught in this manner is fit for drinking, as it is rendered somewhat brackish from the spray which is continually dashing over the rigging.  However, it answers for culinary purposes.  Today I stood nearly an hour in the rain and cold until my fingers were quite benumbed, holding a tin cup to catch water as it dripped off one of the small boats.  This was free from salt and made a good cup of chocolate.  Since our short allowance of water commenced, we have been furnished with enough wheat flour to make four biscuits a day, but this is now stopped.  We will get that amount of wheat flour only once a week.  This renders it pretty hard to get along on a quart of water, as fresh bread required less water than anything else and it did not create a thirst as most other provisions do, especially our beef and pork.  But I shall get along handsomely as I can trade a pint of water for two biscuits per day with one of the upper cabin passengers.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Last evening Mrs. H. and Mr. Marvin commenced playing dominoes.  This being contrary to the wishes of the passengers, a committee was appointed to wait on the Captain and request him to have it stopped.  The Captain repaired below and it was immediately discontinued.  This is not the first time the same parties have outraged public opinion by playing games on Sunday evening.</P>
070.sgm:<P>At noon today we had a distant view of Cape Pillar, the northwesternmost point of Tierra del Fuego.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, November 4</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--The gale of Wednesday night was terrible, making every timber in our old craft quiver and tearing our fore-top staysail to pieces.  We had the highest sea that I have seen and I was credibly informed that the waves seldom run higher, but often much more dangerous.  The waves appeared like hills moving toward you and threatening to bury you beneath them, but as they came rolling their foamy peaks toward us, our ship mounted over them and then rolled into the hollow they formed, and righted herself to receive the "next customer."  We lost twenty miles northing within twenty-four hours, and the vessel was plunging in such a manner that we had to hold on with one hand to keep from rolling over.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The English brig, <HI REND="italics">Vigilant</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>A vessel was discovered this morning off our weather bow.  We gained on her considerably and this evening she was far astern.  All hands are in high glee on account of the fair wind today and rejoice at the prospect of getting out of this tempestous part of the ocean.  I wagered to a treat with Mr. Morrow that we would not be in Valparaiso on the 20th inst.  We are now being driven northeast by north at the rate of six knots an hour.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The great event of the day is the fresh bread question--a question that I can hardly here explain.  Thursday morning orders were given to weigh out about 1 1/2 lbs. of wheat flour and 1 1/2 lbs. of cornmeal to each of us, with the understanding that the upper cabin passengers should be treated in the same way.  This latter part of the story some of us did not believe, as false statements had often been made to us before, and therefore we resolved to receive no allowance until the whole contract should be fulfilled.  We took this view of it:</P>
070.sgm:<P>The flour appears to be nearly exhausted.  While we are put on an allowance of 1 1/2 lbs., others were to be permitted to use as much as they please, and when exhausted we would all have to suffer alike.  This would be allowing them to feast at our expense, which by the way fourteen out of twenty-six of us were not quite willing to allow, our motto being to "ask nothing but what is right and submit to nothing that is wrong."  Twelve of our party drew their allowance and ordered fresh bread for breakfast.  But the rest of us had a cold one, except chocolate or coffee.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We did not expect to have any bread until we reached Valparaiso as we determined not to receive their paltry pound and a half of flour.  But this morning we received bread and the question was settled by having it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday I killed and dressed two gonies and had the birds for dinner today.  They were first boiled in salt water and then baked in the stove.  They furnished a very good meal.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, November 12</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We have had the wind from every quarter of the compass, as well as a few hours' perfect calm with considerable rain, hail and snow, giving us an opportunity to gather rainwater, which all were eager to do.  I was successful in obtaining about three gallons of good sweet water, fit for any purpose, besides as much as I could drink.  A good drink of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Ten or twelve large albatross were caught and slaughtered, some of them weighing 22 pounds and measuring as much as 12 feet across the wings from tip to tip.  Every one now has a curiosity of some kind or other from these fine birds.  The ladies picked the feathers off several of them and took the skin off with the down on, which is very thick, for the purpose of making tippets.  Some have secured the skins to be sent home and put up; others a few large quills; the bill; a long, slender bone out of the wing which answers as a pipestem; the skin of the foot filled with wind like a bladder, which after becoming dry serves the purpose of a tobacco pouch.  We enjoyed a first-rate supper on stewed albatross and had a lot of dried apples stewed with a portion of the rainwater caught.  Notwithstanding the fact that the seamen all told us the albatross were not edible, we devoured them as if they were pheasants, not experiencing any ill effects therefrom.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The wind eventually settled in the southwest and we glided smoothly toward the north.  On Wednesday we had incessant rain squalls.  In the afternoon we quite unexpectedly came within sight of Cape Three Points, the first land we have seen since the 29th of October.  This sudden approach to land somewhat alarmed the Captain, for it proved to him that his reckoning was wrong.  At the announcement of land in sight all hands were soon on deck scanning the horizon with eager eyes.  A squall coming up at the time prevented them from discovering it at first, but soon the cloud disappeared and a glorious light burst upon the view.  A great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Saturday the wind commenced blowing with great violence.  The ocean rolled in mountain waves and its whole surface was covered with foam.  The gale was so violent that it carried away our spanker sheet and rolled over us in such a manner as almost to sweep-our decks.  The seamen began to be alarmed and the passengers put on very long faces.  Many did not retire during the night, and others turned in with their clothes on.  I, however, turned in about ten and slept very soundly until breakfast, notwithstanding the tremendous knocks the old craft received.  When we waked up we found ourselves becalmed and a smooth sea spread around us, but a light breeze arose and wafted us onward to our promised port.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This is the first day, I believe, for five weeks, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>One of the seamen now lies very feeble with the scurvy.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, November 19</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Wednesday evening, the horizon being clear toward the east, we had a fair view of the Tetas Mountains (Three Tits) on the island of Chiloe&acute; about seventy to eighty miles distant, but an unfavorable wind rendered it necessary to tack ship every few hours without making much progress on our course.  Next day it rained the whole afternoon and considerable water was caught.  A vessel was discovered early in the morning more than twenty miles ahead of us and going the same way.  Being a faster sailer than she, we came up to her about eight in the evening and soon showed her our stern.  Judging by the number of boats she carried we supposed her to be a whaler.  We have seen several whales. </P>
070.sgm:<P>We have been successful in catching four porpoises, or sea-hogs, and they furnished several meals of fresh meat all around.  Two others were likewise harpooned, but owing to their strength and agility in the water succeeded in escaping from us only to be devoured by their fellows.  The first was harpooned through and through and yet it was found very difficult to get him out of the water.  This fellow was about five feet long, and would weigh from 100 to 150 pounds, of a dark brown color on the back, and perfectly white belly.  This species is different from that found in the Atlantic and is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Within the last few days, all the birds that have been following in our wake have disappeared, excepting the Cape pigeons, or devil birds.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Without any employment and a continual sameness, time hangs heavily on all hands.  Cards have lost their charm and a party can scarcely be raised to take a game.  Drunken frolics, which were very popular for a short time, have also failed, for the bottle is empty and the spirits cannot be raised.  The newspapers, books and novels have all been read and discussed, and nothing seems to remain for us to do but sit down and brood over our ills, which is well-calculated to breed discontent.  But now as we approach port, we all have more or less correspondence to post up, and thus many of us find some little employment.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, November 20</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--This has been the happiest day we have experienced for a long while.  Early in the morning we came near the coast and continued close to it, until entering the Valparaiso harbor about 7 P.M.  We were visited by the Custom House officers and soon afterward anchored, not being permitted to land until morning.  We are all in high glee and excitement, and hence little inclination to writing.  Tomorrow we will land and get the latest intelligence.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, November 23</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Yesterday and the dayous previna mostly on shore, leaving after breakfast and returning again before supper, paying from one to two rials for conveyance in boats to the landing.  A rial is 12 1/2 cents.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There are from 70 to 80 vessels now lying in port waiting their turn for water, and at least one half of them are American bound for California.  Three or four vessels are arriving and departing almost every day.  We find hundreds of Americans here on their way to California from various parts of the States, but as yet I have not seen a familiar face.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Valparaiso is built on almost barren hills, here and there studded with wild cactus and low bushes and some other wild plants, all differing in their appearance from the plants found in the States.  The city is of a mean appearance, being for the greater part small mud-plastered huts or ranches of one story, covered with hay, or tiles and mud, and having no floors.  The streets are very winding and narrow and the houses built one above the other, presenting the appearance of a hill covered with tiles and straw, as we gaze upon them from the top, and so steep that a man must go on all fours to climb to them.  There are a few pretty decent houses of two or three stories, belonging to the better class, the windows of which are almost invariably crossed by bars of iron as our prisons are.  These are beautifully furnished and the bed is often in the front parlor.  Nearly all have pretty little gardens in the rear in which oranges, peaches and fragrant roses flourish most abundantly.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I visited one Spanish and one English cemetery and in them found some of the most beautiful sculpture I ever saw.  They are beautifully laid and planted with shade trees and rosebushes.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I visited the springs up the mountains in deep ravines where the town is supplied with water, and there the women carry their clothes to wash.  They first lay them in the pool and soap them, and then push them into a heap against the rock and beat them with a paddle.  They charge one dollar per dozen, but it wears them out very fast.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I also went to see the fort or armory.  There are about a dozen cannon around it which command the harbor, and a great many soldiers who are paid nine dollars per month.  There are numerous police, all mounted on mustangs and armed, traversing the streets day and night.  The laws are very strict, especially to foreigners.  For striking one of the police, you pay a penalty of twenty-five dollars or three months' imprisonment in the calaboose.  Prisoners for crimes are chained together and work in the streets guarded by the soldiers.  They are connected by a chain about 12 feet long locked around the ankle.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The inhabitants are of a dark, tawny complexion, with beautiful black hair and eyes.  They speak Spanish, but here and there we find one who can speak a little English.  They all drink and keep liquors for sale.  They are fond of the fandango and only require a request or an invitation to begin it.  The men wear a blanket with a slit cut in the middle, through which they slip their heads and cover their shoulders.  The women are generally very slovenly dressed and I have seen but few whom I would pronounce beautiful or even good-looking.  Today we were visited by a Chilian sen&tilde;ora only sixteen years of age, married to a young New Yorker who keeps a hotel where some of us have stopped.  She was dressed like our own ladies and looked quite pretty.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You cannot get a drink of any kind for less than a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>There are a great many foreigners who appear to transact a good part of the business.  The market is well supplied with an abundance of fruits of a splendid quality, which are cheap, oranges four inches in diameter and delicious strawberries as large as a guinea egg.  Prices of almost everything else are two or three times as high as in the States.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There is one English weekly newspaper here, quite small and miserably conducted, published by the Spaniards, at an ounce ($17) per year.  I was in the office where it was printed, but could find no one who could speak English.  They had five or six presses and about thirty workmen.  I have since understood that journeymen printers receive $10 per week.  I paid two rials for a copy of the paper.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, November 26</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On Saturday about noon the British mail steamer from Panama, carrying the mail from that place, arrived.  We all anticipated receiving papers and letters from home, but in this we have been disappointed.  Not one of our passengers has received a newspaper or letter, although they were doubtless written and started on their way, but owing to our miserable mail arrangement with the Chilian Government, they were forwarded only as far as Panama and there they remain as dead, because no one is there to pay the postage from that place.  In fact the Chilian and U. S. Governments have no postal arrangements <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>From conversation that I have had with many who came via the Horn, I learn that they have had as hard a time of it as ourselves, but others again have doubled the dreaded point without experiencing an hour's bad weather.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday, Sunday, I spent on shore, for the purpose of witnessing the <HI REND="italics">modus operandi</HI>
070.sgm: in this place.  The stores, shops and hotels were open during the day and seemed to enjoy as good a patronage, if not better than on other days.  Men were at work with their jackasses toting water from the mountains, and all kinds of business went on as usual.  In the morning the churches were open and in the evening I attended the theatre.  A comedy was tolerably played and a young sen&tilde;orita danced very prettily and the music was very good, but the audience was rather slim, but few of the <HI REND="italics">bon ton</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, December 10</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--During the past week it rained nearly one whole day, which is a very rare occurrence during the summer season.  We have had fine pleasant weather, as warm as our own summer.  When the weather is perfectly clear, the snow-covered peaks of the Andes can be seen at a great distance.  There is a well-known Spanish proverb, which I have heard here:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>From a woman at the window,<LB>From a monk in the street,<LB>And from the rising sun,<LB>We may guess what the weather is going to be.<LB></HI>
070.sgm:<P>Since we have been in port we have been exchanging civilities with various companies from the States bound for California.  We were visited one evening by a large and merry crowd from the <HI REND="italics">Mechanic's Own</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Atkins lost his purse with every cent of money in it, and on this account I advanced him ten dollars.  His purse contained between fifteen and sixteen, and although it was a small sum, nevertheless when it is all we have, it becomes a great loss.  Yesterday most of our sailors and head cook and steward were discharged at their own request, and hence we have to ship new hands.</P>
070.sgm:<P>A serious disturbance has taken place between Mr. and Mrs. H. and Messrs. M. and L. who have become very intimate since coming aboard.  Mr. H. has complained to the American Consul and it is said that the Consul has recommended them to be put on shore and also told Mr. H. that he would be justifiable in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The Chilians are now at war with the Araucanian Indians in the south, and large bodies of troops are being sent hither.  Saturday a regiment arrived here from Santiago to be sent to the theatre of war.  Early this morning I went on shore to witness the embarkation of several hundred soldiers.  Before embarking they marched through the principal streets, followed by a vast multitude of men, women and children, and as the troops entered the boats there were many heart-rending partings between husbands, brothers, friends and lovers.</P>
070.sgm:<P>During the past few days we have amused ourselves by fishing and we have been able to supply ourselves with two meals per day of excellent fish.  I had a tooth refilled by a dentist from Canada, for which I paid two dollars.  A cockfight took place in the town but this I did not witness.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have written several letters and paid 56 1/4 cents for each half ounce to the English Consul, and sent two small papers which cost 37 1/2 cents each--25 for the postage and fifty for the papers.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This afternoon we received the glad tidings that all hands should be aboard at 12 o'clock tomorrow as we would set sail at that time.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<HEAD>Part Two<LB>THE SECOND LETTER BAG<LB>THE SEA JOURNAL--2</HEAD>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Second Letter Bag</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Peebles Prizer</HI>
070.sgm: <LB>Ship <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm:, Valparaiso, <LB>Tuesday, November 27th, 1849.</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Prizer:--Enclosed with this half sheet you will find a long letter giving a full account of our voyage, which will answer for the perusal of the office and such other persons as you may think proper, and if you deem it worthy I should be pleased to see it published.  But independent of this general letter, I must have a little confidential chitchat with you.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Should any more of our friends be coming this way, tell them to beware of such men as Finley and Hathaway, who are a pack of rascally swindlers.  They have treated us in a most shameful manner and deserve the severest condemnation.  They have us now entirely in their power or I think we would have some disturbances of a serious nature.  You could hardly credit our horrible mode of living.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We have been a thundering long while coming this far and judging by the past we will hardly reach San Francisco before the first of March.  I have often thought of the old <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I have written a long letter to Miss Apple.  Of her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I suppose you and Cad Bradshaw are as thick as ever, perhaps married--and if not, how soon will you be?  And the secret order of the Gideons?  Do they all remain true to their vows of purity, or do they now pay attention to particular ladies?</P>
070.sgm:<P>I suppose you have heard from some of the California boys and that they have arrived in that place.  I would be delighted to meet old Thornbury and Whitaker, and give them a handshake of the heart, upon our arrival.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Many of us fellows have not shaved since leaving Philadelphia and look like a set of pirates.  I had a pretty extensive crop, but too it all off the other day except my imperial and mustachios.</P>
070.sgm:<P>But my sheet is full and I must close.  My next I hope to mail at San Francisco and in the meantime I remain,</P>
070.sgm:<P>Truly yours,</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. C.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm: <LB>Ship <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm:, off Valparaiso, Chile,<LB> Monday, November 19, 1849.</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>Dearest Ellen:--A long, long time has already elapsed since you have heard anything from me, or me from you.  When I first started out, I had hoped to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Ellen, you can hardly imagine how anxious I am to hear from you, to know that you are well and happy.  Your dear, sweet letter forwarded to me while in Philadelphia has been a source of great comfort and consolation to me.  I have read and reread it, again and again.  It contains a charm that words fail me to explain.  In it I find expressions which I will lay to my heart as dear and sacred things to be pondered oft and remembered forever.</P>
070.sgm:<P>To tell you of all the sweets and bitters of this voyage would require a volume, for we have had a very long and in many respects a tedious voyage of twenty weeks, where twelve should have sufficed.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Although most of the passengers recovered from the seasickness in about two weeks, Clinton and I suffered very much with it nearly two months.  At the end of that time I was taken with the fever.  It was during this time when suffering almost unto death, that I read your sweet epistle oftenest, and looked upon the likeness and ring you gave me as tokens of love.  Dearest, your sweet image was then always present to my view.</P>
070.sgm:<P>During the pleasant moonlight evenings while others were mingling in the mazy dance or making merry over the flowing bowl, I often sat on deck gazing at the silver queen of night, as an object that you might be looking upon at the same time, until the beautiful queen had hid herself beneath the horizon.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Sometimes on a pleasant Sabbath evening, the ladies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I wish you to write me at San Francisco, California, where I expect to arrive about the first of March, or perhaps sooner.  First of all, tell me particularly about <HI REND="italics">yourself</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Of the vows we made before separating, I need not speak further than to assure you I shall never regret them and hope you may never have occasion to regret them either.  If you think proper, you can remember me to your family, but this I leave to your own good judgment.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Valparaiso, November 28, 1849.</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Ellen:--Day after tomorrow the vessel sails and I must embrace this last opportunity to write you a few lines.  This may be the last letter you will receive for a long time.  As I come to seal it up, I hardly know what to say lastly to you.  I could write a month and then not have finished half I have to say.</P>
070.sgm:<P>When we reach San Francisco I hope to hear from home.  Not one of us has received a single letter or newspaper in this place.  On our arrival at the promised land, I anticipate feasting my eyes on something your hand has written, and should I be disappointed in this dear expectation, woe and black despair will sink my heart.  But this cannot be.  I know you will write me often.  Be pleased to accept the wishes of your devoted admirer for your happiness, and believe me constantly yours,<LB>E. C.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Sea Journal -- 2<LB><HI REND="italics">Friday, December 14, 1849</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Yesterday when everything was ready for our departure, our new pumps were tried and to our great disappointment did not work and had to be taken ashore again.  How long we may be delayed on this account we cannot tell.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Last evening a fracas took place on board between Messrs. H. and M. on account of the latter, with several others, accepting an invitation to a dinner on board another vessel with Mrs. H.  Mr. H. took offence at this and attacked Mr. M., giving him a black eye and otherwise slightly hurting him.  It was feared that this outbreak would lead to a general row and the signal--the American flag with a knot tied in it--was raised for interference of the men-of-war ships in port.  We were soon boarded by several officers from the Chilian vessel and the parties carried on shore.  After a hearing before the proper tribunal, they were dismissed.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Today eight of us caught, cleaned and salted a barrel of very fine fish which will last us once or twice a week until we reach San Francisco.  Atkins and I, looking ahead, have provided ourselves for an emergency by laying in a lot of cheese and flour for our own consumption.  Last evening they sent us but a small quantity for supper.  We determined to have more, and proceeded forthwith to the galley.  While one disputed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We have fifteen new passengers on board--Frenchmen who were bound for California.  When their vessel stopped at Montevideo on the east of S. A., they resolved to cross the country and meet their vessel again at Valparaiso.  In crossing the Andes they met with incredible hardships and were detained a long time, not reaching Valparaiso until after their vessel had arrived and after waiting some time for them, sailed, three days previous to their arrival, believing they had perished.  This has offered an excellent opportunity for those who are desirous to learn to write and speak the French language, and a number of us have taken our first lesson.</P>
070.sgm:<P>It having been ascertained during the day that the Captain had not laid in a sufficient supply of good provisions to last us to California, a committee was appointed to wait for the Captain and express our dissatisfaction and wishes to him.  A meeting was also held on the subject by the first cabin passengers.  The Captain made us many fair promises on our voyage, to the effect that after reaching Valparaiso he would lay in a sufficient supply of good provisions for all, but these promises he has forgotten or at least not fulfilled.  Although he has made considerable addition to the number of mouths, as we now have about 100 persons aboard, he has only about 800 pounds of flour to feed these for a period of sixty to ninety days, and other supplies are rated in the same meagre proportion.  Much feeling exists on the subject and should our grievances go unredressed, disturbances may be expected before we reach our destination.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>A fight occurred between Simpson and the doctor, the latter getting both eyes well blackened and his nose skinned.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, December 15</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--This morning the Captain went ashore and purchased a considerable addition of flour and potatoes.  About four P.M. we hoisted our anchor and set sail again for Eldorado.  One of the passengers, R. C. Stocton, not being aboard, a sharp lookout was kept as we expected he would overtake us in a small boat.  When we had proceeded about three or four miles, we espied a small boat making its way for us, but the sea being very heavy, it made little progress and we had to "bout ship" and stand in for them.  Four oarsmen were in the boat and when they reached us they were very tired.</P>
070.sgm:<P>It is 165 days since we left Philadelphia and we have made about two-thirds of the way.  We hope to land again in sixty days--the distance yet is about five or six thousand miles.  Many of the passengers are seasick, and I begin to feel a little that way myself.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, December 19</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--The "old man," as sea captains are universally called, has evinced a determination to make a quick passage from Valparaiso to San Francisco, and since we have left the former place we have had a very strong, fair wind, and every stitch of canvas spread.  During the 24 hours ending at noon yesterday we made 228 miles, being the greatest run we have made since leaving Philadelphia, by 20 miles.  At the mouth of the bay we saw a few Cape pigeons, but they did not follow us far and now not a bird is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Early this morning we came within sight of the four small islands known as the St. Felix Islands, and by nine o'clock had passed within twelve or fifteen miles of them.  At that distance they appeared to be nothing but barren rocks interspersed with lofty peaks and deep ravines.  While near the islands, we saw a number of birds of different species, the largest of which are known as "boobies."  We are now in the regular Trade Wind and it is wafting us along most beautifully.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday afternoon, Mr. Sterling's little boy, Jerome, met with a slight fall, and in the evening he was seized with a severe fit.  This was the first time the like had occurred and his parents expressed much alarm.  About eleven o'clock this forenoon the child died.  This afternoon his body was sewed up in a piece of canvas, with three cannon balls at the feet to make it sink, and then placed on a plank with the American flag around it.  A solemn prayer was said, and as the words "we now commit to the deep" were repeated by Mr. Rogers, his mortal remains were cast into the raging ocean.  He was but nine months old, and of a very good, hearty constitution. This is a solemn warning to all that we know not when we may be called to that bourne from whence no traveller has yet returned.  Alas!  How quick the change--yesterday he was in the full enjoyment of health, happily playing round his mother--today he's in his grave!  His poor mother would do almost anything to imbue life into him again for it was in her arms he safely passed the terrors of Cape Horn, and also in her arms, in an unlucky hour, he received the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, December 22</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--It is now just one weeke we bid farewell to Valparaiso, and thus far it has been the brightest in our calendar.  We have made 1,051 miles in our course, which is by far the best week's sailing since we left our native shores, and of itself enough to keep us in good cheer for a week.  No serious brawls have taken place, and consequently no black eyes or skinned noses are to be seen.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Several who commenced taking lessons in French have become tired and have given it up.  About half a dozen of us, however, have kept on and we can now begin to speak, read, and translate a few sentences.  Four or five of the Frenchmen have a pretty severe time of it on account of seasickness; all of our old passengers recovered in a day or two.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We now get along tolerably well at mealtime, much better at least than previous to our arrival at Valparaiso, and no complaints or murmurings are heard on this score.  We now have potatoes twice per day, bread four times per week and duff twice with rice, or bean soup occasionally.  This, gotten up in the manner it is, is bad enough in all conscience, but infinitely preferable to navy bread with half-inch worms in it, and salt pork and beef which formed our chief food ever since leaving home.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The atmosphere here on the Pacific is as warm as our own mid-summer.  The evenings are beautiful, moonlit, and we have just had some tunes on the violin and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, December 25</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Today has been Christmas, the day above all others for merrymaking throughout Christendom, but here we have spent it much unlike the merrymaking we have in our own distant home.  For two or three days past we were fasting on hard fare under the promise of an excellent dinner for which the cooks and stewards have all been busy making preparations.  So when we sat down, we were sadly disappointed in our pleasant anticipations.  Although we had chicken and turkey, they were so few and far between that our shares amounted to but precious little, and with the addition of two small potatoes each, all arose from the table with appetites still craving.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Some fine dishes were prepared for the upper cabin and carelessly placed in a tempting position to hungry boys and so one of them disappeared.  The Captain was immediately informed of the occurrence and came posthaste down to our cabin, swearing and cursing that he was "going to find out who did it or he would raise h--!"  The cook then charged our Jo Smith with the theft, but it was proven he was not in the neighborhood of the galley at the time of the occurrence.  When the "old man" found out that he could not hit on the right one, it only more and more incensed him.  He got into a terrible flurry and talked of "setting fire to the magazine and blowing up the whole ship, as he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, December 29</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Another week of good sailing ends with this evening, and should we be thus favored four or five weeks more, we will be safely landed again on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday morning one of the ladies playfully took a bottle of brandy out of Charley's trunk, and as he expressed much concern about it today, the lady handed it back to him.  The boys seized the opportunity to bone him for a treat, but he being a little sulky and not relishing the joke very well, threw the contents of the bottle into the sea.  Since then they have plagued him with a tenfold vigor.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>At the dinner table today in the upper cabin another fracas occurred.  It appears some words were exchanged between Mr. Sterling and Mr. Murphy at the breakfast table, but things rested without any further difficulty until the parties sat down to the dinner table, when the feud was renewed.  Mr. Murphy seized the carving knife and made at Mr. Sterling.  Mr. S., being unarmed, made his escape from the cabin while others were engaged in wresting the knife from Mr. M.  Before the knife could be taken from him, he cut Mr. Holland slightly on the hand, and Mr. Platt also received a middling severe wound in the hand.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Thursday the sky was unclouded for the first time since we left Valparaiso, and I have heard it said that where these southeast winds prevail it is seldom clear.  On that day I was twenty-one years of age, the period I was anxiously looking forward to a short year ago while laboring at the case in the old <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Last evening we were surrounded by hundreds of black porpoises and for a long while endeavored to harpoon them without success, but we caught a large fish, called by the seamen a "bonetta."  Yesterday we saw a large school of flying fish, the first we have seen on the Pacific.  They are becoming quite numerous again.  We have been fishing, but the large hawks that are now in our vicinity are more expert at it than ourselves, for they dart down from a great height and seize the little flying fish as they rise up out of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, January 1, 1850</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Yesterday ended the old and today begins a new year.  The past has been an eventful one to us all and will most likely be remembered as such by us as long as remembrance continues.  What vicissitudes we may be called on to pass through during the one just begun none of us can anticipate or conjecture with the least degree of certainty, and this being the case it is useless for me to speculate.  Last evening a few of us secured half a dozen old muskets belonging to the ship, and loaded them well and awaited the hour of twelve.  As the bell commenced tolling, a volley was fired off the after-cabin that made the welkin ring, and the performance concluded by wishing each other "a happy New Year," and drinking the same to our sweethearts and wives.  I did an extensive washing to conclude the old year.  The washing was done most beautifully and with little trouble by hanging the clothes out into the water and towing them a little while. In this manner woolen or cloth can be washed in as good if not superior manner to any other, but much care must be taken not to drag them until they ravel and go to pieces.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This afternoon Mr. M. went to Mr. H.'s stateroom and requested Mrs. H. to hand him some large quills belonging to him, which she did.  Mr. Rogers being in the cabin at the time and looking that way as though he was watching their motions, she exclaimed to him, "What are you looking at me for, you d--d s--n of a b--h!" or words to this effect.  This circumstance was mentioned to Mr. H. and he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, January 3</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Six months this afternoon since we left Philadelphia, a period long enough to give us all a dislike to long sea voyages, especially when treated as we have been: being cheated, deceived and belied in every respect relating to our fare.  Until within a few days, since leaving port, we have fared tolerably and all seemed willing to move on without any disturbance, but the most essential stores are almost exhausted, butter in the upper cabin is almost consumed, potatoes almost gone, pork getting short; and flour is now getting scarce and to be reserved for fear it may run out in case of a long passage.  Our written contract calls for 25 pounds of potatoes per week, and although they furnished some previous to our arrival at Valparaiso, they only purchased enough there to give us a scanty allowance twice per day up to this time.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Now we are to have but one potato, or one and a half, per day, with one pound of flour per week, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The dissatisfaction concerning our fare constantly increases, and it is not to be wondered at, for these villains have been practicing a shrewd system of plunder upon us ever since we paid them our passage money.  Whatever we cannot eat they give us plenty of and whatever we can eat they stint us in, not even giving us as much as our agreement calls for.  I am forced to believe them the most systematic robbers I ever heard of.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The water we got at Valparaiso is not nearly as good as the Schuylkill water, and now tastes very stale.  We mix it with a little vinegar and sugar, and this makes a fairly good drink.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday we came up with the whale ship <HI REND="italics">Napoleon</HI>
070.sgm: of Nantucket, and gave her "skipper" an invitation to come aboard of us. This invitation he accepted and soon his boat was alongside of us with half a dozen good oarsmen.  They informed us that they had been out three years and had met with but poor success, having taken but about 1,100 pounds during that time.  A short time since, they harpooned four at one time, two of which they secured but the other two escaped after breaking up the boats after them.  Some of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>Last night it was too warm to sleep in our cabin, which is none too well ventilated.  I did considerable mending this forenoon and have much more to do, but can scarcely find time to get at it.  We have made tent pins for our tent, out of our old pork barrel.  Some days since, I made a bag, or knapsack, in case such should be requisite upon our arrival.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. H. has concluded that it would be better for him and his wife not to room together any longer, and in accordance with this has fitted up an extra berth in our cabin.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, January 12</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We crossed the Equator Sunday afternoon, January 6th, in longitude 110 deg. 18[min] W.  It was cloudy and much cooler.  Until yesterday, since leaving Valparaiso, we have been favored with the southeast Trade Wind which carried us some 3,600 miles northwest, but yesterday we had the wind from every quarter with intervals of perfect calmness, and a half dozen heavy showers.  Today we were becalmed under a burning sun until about four o'clock P.M., when a fair wind from the northeast sprung up, and since then we have been moving gently forward.  This is supposed to be the regular northeast Trade and we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>While lying in the harbor in Valparaiso we were almost devoured by fleas, but we were not troubled long after we left.  Since then a new scourge has been sent to trouble us.  For a few weeks past some have been unable to sleep on account of something biting and creeping over them.  Upon search they found their bunks to be infested with bedbugs of monstrous growth and in great numbers, and now almost every one is trying his own expedients to get rid of these troublesome customers.  Some oil them and others burn them.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Sterling has made his first appearance on deck since the fracas between him and Murphy.  Mr. and Mrs. H. have again become, in a measure, reconciled with each other and now room together.  It is hoped that there may be no further occasion of brawls between them.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This afternoon some of the passengers had a great deal of sport at "Jeremiah's" expense.  He had washed out a shirt and hung it in a convenient place to dry, and some one out of mere wantonness and for the joke, took it away and hung it near the top of the mast in such a position that he could not get it.  As a consequence he became very wrathy, but after they had plagued him awhile, he got in a better humor and some one promised to get it for him tomorrow.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The vessel now presents a pretty fair appearance, as the seamen have been engaged in painting the rigging and masts.  For a long time past, cards had become quite unpopular, but they are again coming in vogue and this evening two or three sets are "at it."  Also we had several tunes on the violin and "Murph" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>To the north and south now hang dark heavy clouds, and ever and anon vivid flashes of lightning glare along the horizon, lighting up the surrounding darkness.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, January 17</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--The old craft has been flying through the water, dashing the spray from her bows at a terrible rate.  Last evening, it being feared the waves would dash into the stern windows, they were closed and as a consequence it became almost suffocating in the cabin.  It was very evident no sleeping could be done there, and several removed their beds on deck.  I took mine and lay on deck until midnight when a rain squall came up and I had to move my quarters, but without finding a place that I could sleep in.  Hence I had to keep watch until morning.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The wind has now strengthened to a gale, and we are moving, or rather jumping, along under very little canvas, with the sea so rough that it reminds us of Cape Horn.  The rolling and rocking of the vessel for the last two days has been terrible, bringing back slight sea-sickness to several of us.  We hope the wind and sea will abate and enable us to spread more canvas.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday a common hawk flew around the vessel for some time and then perched on the rigging.  After admiring it awhile, it was concluded that we must have a shot at him, and accordingly the piece was loaded and fired, but without taking effect.  The piece was, however, loaded and fired again and it brought the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>This forenoon a vessel was discovered to windward, apparently bearing for us.  When she came near we raised our colors, expecting that she would raise hers, but for some time she raised no flag at all, and at length she flew the English colors.  When near us, we halted to enable her to come up, but she man&oelig;uvred about in such a manner, one moment steering towards us and the next some other course, that we put off at full speed and she soon after crossed our wake in a southeastern course.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We had a potpie with one chicken in it for dinner.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, January 29</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--After two days of calm, we were moving rapidly along to the northeast with a strengthening wind, when it shifted to the northeast, dead ahead.  They soon tacked ship and since then our course has been northwest.  The weather has been dark and gloomy with a heavy mist falling, and this evening we have had several showers.</P>
070.sgm:<P>A week ago such a miserable dinner was sent to us that very few could bring themselves to touch it, and the Captain was requested to come down and take a view of what he had furnished us to live upon.  He came and saw it and doubtless felt somewhat abashed for he gave some directions for the future that will prove of no service to any one, and then left.  About ten days since, my cheese and other small stores laid in at Valparaiso gave out, and our potatoes being entirely exhausted, we live intolerably hard.  This morning I purchased a lot of flour from a friend who had supplied himself more liberally, and henceforth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>Today I understood for the first time that while we were in Valparaiso, an instrument of writing was gotten up, commending our Captain in the highest terms for his good seamanship, gentlemanly deportment toward passengers, etc., and signed by a select few of the first cabin passengers, the others of us not being let into the secret, and then forwarded to Mr. Hathaway!  This I suppose was done for fear that some one would send a true statement of the case home.  The signers in this case are mere fawning sycophants, for there is not a single one of them who has not heaped maledictions against him.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The souse that we have been furnished with recently for breakfast is not fit to eat and it remains untouched.  Yesterday two large pans of it were carried on deck while the Captain was at breakfast, and the American flag stuck over it.  When he came out, he saw it and enquired of the steward, "Who put it there?"  The steward told him he didn't know and was directed to take it away.  This morning a mixture of warm water and corn meal was sent us as mush, but as we expected it fried, we ordered the steward to take it back as it was impossible for us to eat it in that manner.  He returned it and the Captain was informed of the occurrence, but he has no disposition to remedy any evil, and thus the matter rests.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Friday afternoon the startling cry of "Fire!" was heard from one end of the ship to the other, and a dense cloud of heavy black smoke was seen to issue through the roof of the "galley."  Soon the hot flames rose almost high enough to catch the "main sheet" but all hands instantly rushed to the rescue and by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<illus entity="a070-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A PAGE FROM THE SEA JOURNAL</P>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, February 1, 1850</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--This morning the wind fell again and we were almost becalmed all day.  Towards evening, however, the wind sprung up from the northeast and now we are making handsome time on our course.  We are very impatient to reach the promised haven and our joy is regulated entirely by the changes of the wind.</P>
070.sgm:<P>For several days past, our vessel has been followed by large black birds, and a hook and line was put out for them and one or two caught, killed and thrown away.  We have had a great deal of sport or amusement in catching birds and tying a large bait of pork to them and then letting them go and seeing the others chase them.  This afternoon we witnessed a case of brutish cruelty by one of the Frenchmen on one of the large birds that was caught with the hook and line.  He landed the bird on deck and then cut off both its legs and in this state threw it overboard into the water.  His partner, who was also catching birds, soon after had his line cut while in his hands, by some "unknown person or persons!"  This was not a very nice trick for it was not him that hurt the bird--and he became <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>Some difficulty arising between the carpenter and Mr. Field, they took a "set to," clinched, and fell.  The former, being on top, arose and stamped his opponent in the face.  Neither was much hurt</P>
070.sgm:<P>As we approach the place of our destination the boys are busying themselves in making various bags, shot pouches, etc., out of old boot legs.  This afternoon I finished one myself.  Trade is becoming very brisk.  Soon after breakfast the boys were seized with a great mania for it, and many articles exchanged owners.  In less than half an hour I traded coats three times.  Also I sold two pairs of boots and bought one.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This forenoon some of the boys had a merry time over the flowing bowl, and this evening the sailors have taken their turn and some of them have become so wild that they are hardly fit for duty.  Almost every evening the table is filled by parties engaged in the pleasant and exciting recreation of cards.  This evening the boys got out the fiddle and had a merry dance.  They danced several "cow-tillions" and then introduced a new dance under the name of "California War Dance."  In performing the latter, six persons form a ring and place their leader in the center.  When the music strikes up they commence dancing around in a circle, and make the welkin ring by their shouting and bellowing.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, February 3</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--During the greater part of the day a thick heavy fog or mist hung over the sea, making the day damp and disagreeable.</P>
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070.sgm:<P>Yesterday the cooks killed two fine pigs, but as they did not scald them properly, they were unable to take the hair all off.  They were therefore compelled to <HI REND="italics">shave the pigs</HI>
070.sgm:.  This morning they cut off the outside of the hams and shoulders and cooked the remaining part for breakfast for the upper cabin.  At noon they made us a sea pie of the skins mixed with some salt beef, since they had used the meat for the upper cabin.  We ate the better part of it and then scooped out some of the larger pieces of this skin thickly set with hair an inch long, and placed it on a plate and carried this dainty dish on deck for the inspection of the Captain and the other passengers.  Some indignation was felt and some threats made.  The Captain blamed all upon the cooks and gave us orders to go "tear out the cooks and give them a d--d good lashing."  This he had done before but we thought he was the one to correct abuses and therefore respectfully declined.  The seamen had even a worse mess served up to them and they too complained to the Captain, and the order that had been given to us was repeated to them.  They required no second telling, but at it they went.  They made a rush for the galley, took out the assistant cook and told him to be quiet as they were not going to hurt him.  They then seized the presiding genius by the hair.  He commenced screaming in a most awful manner and endeavored to prevent them from getting him out.  He propped his shoulders against the door, but he soon found this unavailing as they gave him a kick in the face that brought the "claret" and loosed his hold.  By this time the whole ship had been alarmed and one of the Frenchmen who was scared half to death came running aft, shouting "Capitan!  Capitan!  Revolucion!"  The seamen were about to give the cook <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>It is the opinion of many that the Captain is at the head of all this, and that he makes the cooks and stewards do all this dirty work and then pushes the blame on them.  It is about in keeping with the double-facedness of the man.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, February 6</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--The fog has often been so heavy that we could see but a little way off, and at night it fell so thick that it soon penetrated through the thickest clothes, but it cleared away early this morning and the sun shone with unrivalled brilliancy.  A strong wind wafted us along smartly until this evening, when it almost ceased and we are now moving along at only three knots per hour, but this is the rate the Captain desires her to go, for he is fearful that his reckoning is wrong.  He supposed yesterday that he was several miles from shore, and accordingly sail was shortened at dark last evening and the signal light hung out.  At eight o'clock they hove the lead without finding any soundings.  His chronometer has been leading him astray for a long time and he can place no reliance upon it, but this morning he had a fair opportunity to take a lunar observation and he now hopes to be about forty miles from the entrance of the harbor in the morning, and to reach the harbor tomorrow.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This afternoon all eyes were eagerly directed shoreward.  Some asserted that a dim outline of land could be discerned while others could see nothing but clouds.  Various preparations are being made by the passengers to land immediately.  Today I finished drying some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, February 7</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Yesterday morning fried mush was promised us for breakfast this morning, and when breakfast time came we were informed that we would have to wait for it until tomorrow morning.  This the boys were not agreed to, and Mr. Schroyer proceeded forthwith to the galley and by a well-arranged <HI REND="italics">coup de main</HI>
070.sgm:<P>About nine o'clock the joyful cry of "Land, ho!" was heard and by going aloft to the fore-topsail guard, I was able to see the dim outline of several ridges of land.  At this first sight of the land of promise, oh, how my heart leaped with joy!  The water had changed in appearance from the dark blue of the wide ocean to the dirty green always found near shore.  By noon we could discern several specks in the distance, which we supposed to be vessels, but subsequently they proved to be three clusters of rugged rocks about 25 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>Soon after sunset, which was the most beautiful ever witnessed, a dark mist or fog arose, obscuring objects in the distance.  A fair wind was carrying us gallantly forward, but it was growing darker and darker every moment.  At six o'clock we crossed the bar, but the Captain not deeming it safe to enter at this time of night gave the order to "wear ship."  We stood out for sea, deeming it prudent to get a little way off, and then lie to and enter in the morning.  The vessel had hardly come about when a bright light was seen in the distance, supposed to be a light on shore.  It soon became brighter and brighter, and in a little time a dark speck was seen rapidly approaching.  We supposed it to be a steamer coming out and as we had not our signal light out, we were apprehensive that whatever it was, it would run into us.  A light was immediately raised and as she approached, our Captain sung out to the stranger to bear off.</P>
070.sgm:<P>In less time than it requires to write this, the craft was close alongside of us, and enquired if we wished a pilot.  Our Captain replied, "Aye!  Aye!"  This was joyful intelligence to us all.  In ten minutes the pilot was aboard and took command of the vessel.  Three hearty cheers were then given by us for him.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We have come to anchor, in consequence of the wind dying away, within a stone's throw of the northern shore of the entrance to San Francisco where it is only about a mile wide.  Now, 10:30 P. M., all our boys have turned in, hoping to get into port tomorrow.</P>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, February 11</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On Friday morning last we again hoisted anchor and by noon were inside of the bay in view of a greater part of the shipping opposite San Francisco, but wind and tide being against us, we had to anchor again.  Here we lay until next afternoon and in the meantime we were visited by the Custom House officers and the port physician.</P>
070.sgm:<P>On Saturday I went ashore.  The town appeared to be nothing but a mud hole at this time.  I proceeded immediately to the post office, very anxious to hear something of the objects nearest my heart, and I was gratified to the fullest extent.  Letter after letter and paper after paper were handed out until the postage amounted to six dollars out of my scanty purse of twenty-seven, but had they cost the whole twenty-seven, I should have willingly paid it, so anxious was I to hear from friends and home.  I came on board again in the evening where I have remained, employing my time in reading over my letters and papers, eagerly devouring their contents.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We expect to be landed tomorrow, and this is our last day on the <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm: after a voyage of about twenty thousand miles and 222 days since we left Philadelpia.  Although we have fared miserably aboard the <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I shall soon be on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Part Three<LB>THE THIRD LETTER BAG<LB>THE CALIFORNIA JOURNAL -- I</HEAD>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Third Letter Bag</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Christman:--It is little more than three weeks today since you left us.  Time generally passes rapidly, though these three weeks appear a long time to me.  I have missed you very much in the office; I feel the need of some confidential friend to chat with.  We are getting along pretty well, though I must be the first at the breach and the last at the route in the various duties in the office, on account of the boys being all young and inexperienced.  The editor also gets the devil in him frequently.</P>
070.sgm:<P>In West Chester everything continues pretty much as it was.  The Guards had a fine time of it on the Fourth, mustering 35 men.  The company is getting along swimmingly.  The ladies are all first-rate, but no beaux.  The beaux are all going to California.  There is considerable talk now about a number more going from West Chester.  I feel like going myself.  Be not surprised if you should meet me there.</P>
070.sgm:<P>About myself, as regards the ladies, I have something to say which may surprise you as well as it has been unexpected to many in this place.  The cord which bound Miss Bradshaw and me together has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>And now, allow me to say that Miss Apple has in no way given any cause to produce this result.  It was the promptings of a generous feeling on my part to do for her every favor, especially as she continued so melancholy in regard to your absence.  Unfortunately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>All hands send their warmest regards.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I remain,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Enos:--I received your very welcome letter and I cannot help thinking of one particular sentence you wrote, that I gave you pain when I told you about walking out with Mr. Prizer and Miss Bradshaw.  I am very sorry to give you pain, but it was not done intentionally.  That you know.  I told you because I wished you to know whom I walked out with, not because I thought you selfish by any means.  I know you are not.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I know that you have been wanting to go to that tempting place, California, and that you would never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>The other day Henry Evans was talking to Father about you and he spoke of you very highly and gave you an excellent character for all the time you were boarding with his family and working in the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I hope you have good books to read.  I regret very much that I did not think to give you some books but I was in so much trouble and I felt so badly.  I am happy to learn that you have the violins on board to pass the time away, but do not participate too much, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>There was a general turnout at the Court House on the Fourth of July, ladies by the plenty.  I said to Cad if there were one soldier more among them I could enjoy looking at them.  But as it was, I felt miserable all the time I was listening to the reading of the Declaration of Independence.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There have been strange proceedings since you left here.  Prizer has left Cad and he gallants Elizabeth Hodgson.  I expect he will write to you the whole story.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Prizer called on me last evening.  Part of the subject of conversation was about you, and part about the separation of Caroline and himself.  It is the general talk.  Cad packed everything Prizer has given her and sent them to him, with the exception of his likeness, and that she said no one should have.  She wrote him a note with them and told him that the daguerreotype she was going to keep sacred.  He told me he did not understand that, and he says he wants it.</P>
070.sgm:<P>He was also speaking about California, and he said that almost every person thinks I have an investment in the California stock.  And he says he is going to send you a letter soon, and will put my letter in with his.  I was very anxious to send a letter to you, but Mr. Prizer told me it would get there long before you, so I am contented.  I suppose since he has left Cad, he will grant me more favors than ever.  But I know I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>Sarah Cope called here the other evening and we were speaking of Cad and Prizer.  She said that Cad had hardly spoke to her for some time and she did not know the reason, but lately she had found out it was because Prizer called on Sarah.  Cad tells me she is going to wait until Ruben Haines comes back, because when he left he told her not to get married until he came back.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The other evening Cad and I thought we would be Quakers.  So we put on Quaker bonnets and plain shawls, and went up to Polly Hoffinton's.  There were four young men there and such laughing you never heard.  Cad sent her best regards to you and wished me to tell you that she goes on her own jurisdiction.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Tuesday evening I met Amanda Mercer.  Robert Lewis and Atwood Pyle came up.  They both said, "Well, Ellen, how do you do?" and I said, "I am pretty well, I believe."  And they both made reply, "I did not expect you would be after the California adventures."  I never said a word, but Amanda answered, "Ellen does not hear when you talk about California."  And so they said no more about it.  After they talked with us awhile, Robert said, "Come, Amanda, we will go this way."  And off they started, so I had to follow with Atwood, but I was too angry.  I do not wish a gentleman to gallant me about if I can possibly get out of it.  I never let them gallant about with me when my only dear was here, and I assure you that I will not while you are away.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Edward Miller was here a little while ago.  He said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>I wish your vessel would hurry and sail to Valparaiso so I could get a letter.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I must close and I am very sorry, but of course I shall write often.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I remain, as ever yours,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Fellow:--Out of doors the rain is pouring down in torrents and the storm is howling desperately.  In the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>If your vessel has had good luck she must have rounded Cape Horn, and you have become acquainted with all the dangers of this terrible passage.  I would give something handsome to know whether the California fever has subsided any with you!  When you arrive at San Francisco, the first thing you do, write to us the full particulars of your voyage.  Don't rely on any letters you may have left on the way.  They do not reach the States, particularly from Valparaiso.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Up to November 17, we were totally ignorant of your whereabouts; that was the first we have heard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>Letters have been received announcing the safe arrival in San Francisco of all our West Chester boys.  Thornbury wrote a letter to you.  I opened it.  He advises you to content yourself and stay at home.  This you receive too late.  At the time he wrote this letter he was getting ready to start for the mines.  Cale will be surprised to hear of your being in California.  Whitaker has written a very long letter which we are setting up for the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I think that you and Clint, with your tools, can do well.  You can pass yourselves off for house carpenters.  But God only knows what will become of you should you arrive in San Francisco in ill-health and with broken-down constitutions.  The fever is down in West Chester and will remain so until we hear of some of our folks finding the "big lumps."  Should I hear of you finding plenty, I will immediately start for the gold regions.  I will come the Isthmus route.  You must give me a true statement of affairs in California, as frequently as you can.  Letters come through in twenty and thirty days.</P>
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070.sgm:<P>Miss Apple was at church this morning.  Since your absence,  I have frequently called upon her, as an old friend and acquaintance.  Her devotion to you is firmly fixed, with a determination to hold out to the last.  She was delighted to hear that the <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm:<P>The editor has been away more than half the time.  He was an applicant for the appointment of an European mission and has been on to Washington several times, working with all his energy.  He intimated that he would make me a liberal offer, should he be successful, as he and his family would be absent three or four years.  In this case I will put the screws on him.  I have been waiting for this to take place for some time.  But what arrangements would be made in the office I do not know nor do I care much.  There is only one contingency which may finally result in favor of the editor.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We have been anxiously waiting for the President's message for the last week, but it has not yet been delivered, the House being unable to elect a speaker.</P>
070.sgm:<P>On Friday last I saw your mother.  She looked very well and is in good health.  She said she thought it could not be that you had gone to California.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I send you the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm: regularly, which will tell of all the news at home.  I hope you will receive it.  About town the beaux and girls are getting along as usual, very little prospects of any of the ladies getting married.  There is no use proposing to them.  They appear to be waiting for you California boys, who they expect will have lots of "rocks" when you return.  We Gideons are all standing back and do not go it more than once at one place.  You may often wonder what I am doing among the ladies.  I can sum it up in this brief sentence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>For the last two weeks meetings have been held at the Methodist Church every evening, and a number of converts have been made. In fact, we may say a great revival is going on in our midst.  Among those who have been converted and joined church are some of the hardest cases we had about West Chester.  I hope they are sincere, and it may do them good.  This morning a powerful sermon was preached by some stranger; afterwards about fifteen of these converts were taken on probation as members, among them Miss Elizabeth Hodgson.  "Old Dad" often feels solemn but cannot as yet reconcile myself to take the step that some of my companions have.  One thing I have done--I have quit <HI REND="italics">swearing</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Remember me to Clint, and accept for yourself my heartiest wishes.<HSEP>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Give my love to Bill Whitaker and take some yourself.  I hope you may always have plenty of "redboys."</P>
070.sgm:<P>BEN SWENEY.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Give my best respects to all W. C. boys and do not be surprised to see me out there soon.</P>
070.sgm:<P>JNO. W. MILES.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dearest Enos:--I cannot let an opportunity escape <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<illus entity="a070-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A LETTER FROM ELLEN APPLE</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:without addressing a few lines to you, and as Mr. Prizer informed me that he was going to write you, it is with pleasure I resume my pen to perform the same operation.  I am constantly thinking and wondering where you are and how you are, what you are doing, and if you have plenty to eat and drink.  I suppose by this time you have become accustomed to the trials and hardships of a sea voyage and I expect if your life is spared to return, you will never have a desire to repeat it.  Your vessel has been spoken once, which was quite a relief to my mind.  Your daguerreo-type proves the greatest source to my comfort.  It would be impossible for me to tell you how often I have opened it.  I hold it most dear of anything this side the ship <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Father received a letter from Theodore, the first we received since he left Rio Janeiro.  He was in San Francisco driving cart at $8.00 a day.  But a letter written three days afterward by James Dixon to his wife stated that he had quit carting and gone to roofing at 12 dollars a day.  We think it would be better for him to remain there than to go to the mines.  James Dixon is digging well at 6 dollars a day and Thornbury is about the same business.  The most distressing circumstance that occurred was the loss of one of their party.  A rope broke and a young man by the name of Little fell overboard and was drowned.  They could hear his cries for help for a full half-hour, but the sea was so rough and everything being lashed fast to double the Horn, it was impossible to save him.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>It seems a long time since you left here, and to think you are not near your place of destination yet.  Mr. Prizer is very kind to me and calls to see us frequently.  I had a very pleasant visit with my sister in the city.  I was very anxious to see the Panorama of California but my time was occupied.  They say it is true to life.  To see the men digging in the gold mines, so eager for gold!  If they would labor as hard here, perhaps they would save as much.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have had a serious time with my arm.  I slipped on the steps and sprained the nerve of my elbow and have been obliged to carry my arm in a sling for two weeks.  It is much better now and I can use it a great deal.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There has been a Methodist protracted meeting.  Mr. Houston was talking to Mr. Prizer and wanted him to go up to the Mourners' bench and just as he was leaving him, Mr. Houston said, "God bless the printers."  I hope He may, particularly one, and that is you.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Prizer was jesting today.  He said he believed he would go to California and I told him if he went, it would seem to me as if my friends had all left me.  I hardly know what to do without you.  Mr. Prizer and I were at a ball held at the Horticultural Hall on last Wednesday evening.  There were about one hundred and sixty guests.  I enjoyed myself exceedingly well.  There will be three more of the same kind.  I wish you were here to enjoy them.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I believe Miss Bradshaw is still in the market.  Mr. Prizer is gallanting Miss Cope. Mr. John Hunter is paying great attention to Miss Annie Hatch.  She has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I send you a beautiful piece of poetry and I hope you will read it and profit by it.</P>
070.sgm:<P>It has been five months and two weeks since you sailed for California.  I hope if you get there safely you will soon be tired and return.  Nothing more at present.  I remain as ever,</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yours,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Betrothed Ellen:--This day a year ago, I little dreamed that in a twelvemonth I should have encountered the terrors of Cape Horn, and after many days of severe suffering, reached the shores of this golden land, and been penning you an epistle like this.  But strange as this would have sounded then, it is now nevertheless true.</P>
070.sgm:<P>When we landed on the beach at Happy Valley, we pitched our tent and commenced life in true California fashion.  Every evening the merry notes of the violin are heard, and judging from appearances the place is not inaptly named.</P>
070.sgm:<P>After our arrival, I received many letters and papers at the post office, and not seeing any in your handwriting, I impatiently tore the envelopes off Mr. Prizer's and therein found the precious documents so eagerly looked for.  The words therein were a soothing balm to all misgivings, and assure me of your abiding and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>You speak with great earnestness of your anxiety for my future comfort and speedy return.  I can assure you that thus far I have suffered many hardships to which I have been unaccustomed, but with the exception of a slight cold, consequent upon sleeping on the ground, I feel as well in health as ever I did in my life.</P>
070.sgm:<P>In order to perpetuate the good old custom of sending letters of love and friendship on St. Valentine's Day, I must write a short letter of friendship to Miss Hunter.  Were you of a less generous disposition, I should hardly dare to tell you this, but I know you are not blinded by the foolish and jealous passions so often found in your sex.  I know you will never allow yourself to be disturbed by the petty reports often found floating through the community and always added to by busy mischief-makers.  But believe me, I would rather that the hand which now guides my pen should wither than deceive you in this.  And if you feel the least disturbed on this account you can apply to me for a copy of this letter, which I will forward you if you desire it.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You mention that on one occasion Mr. Evans was talking with your father about me and gave me an excellent character.  Now I wish you to inform me if your friends, particularly your father, mother and sister, are aware of our correspondence and engagement.  The former I suppose they do know, but the latter I cannot tell, but you can.  If they do know, what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>You and Cad must have had a merry time when you walked up to Miss Hoffinton's as Quakers.  Give my compliments to Cad and tell her she had better not wait for the California boys; they may not get back very soon.</P>
070.sgm:<P>And some of your acquaintances think you have an investment in the California Stock.  Well, if they consider me an investment it is even so.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You still rob yourself of much enjoyment, I fear, on my account, by not allowing yourself to walk with or attend parties with other acquaintances.  If any expedition is on foot that promises enjoyment, I pray you accept the invitation on my account, for nothing can give me more pleasure than to know you are well and happy.  I pray you also to abate your anxiety about me, for a continual weight upon the mind must eventually affect the system and undermine health.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Before I started and bid farewell to as good friends as ever lived, I counted the cost.  I had strong and honorable motives for encountering the terrors of Cape Horn and the dangers of a long sea voyage and here, just on my arrival in the land of promise, would be a poor place indeed to regret the undertaking.  No danger must be met half way, every difficulty should be met with manly fortitude, and my intention is to meet them in such a manner that I need never be ashamed.  I now boldly turn my face toward the celebrated Sierra <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I received a beautiful piece of poetry with your letter entitled, "'Tis Sweet to Be with God!"  I have read it with great interest but confess my inability to practice the good precepts contained therein.</P>
070.sgm:<P>In a few days we hope to leave for the diggings and what our opportunities may there be to receive or send letters, I know not, and should you not hear from me for a long time do not despair or think that I intentionally delay writing to you.  We may have to penetrate the country many hundred miles, and if so of course our mail conveniences will be few, but what there are shall be embraced by me to write to you.  I wish you to write monthly to San Francisco, and I will get your letters some time.  Theodore and his party are at the Middle diggings, I believe, Thornbury at the same we are going to, but I fear we shall meet none of them.  Remember me to your sister, and your parents.  Although a stranger to Miss Hatch, please give my compliments to her also.</P>
070.sgm:<P>That happiness may be found in your footsteps is the prayer of your devoted</P>
070.sgm:<P>ENOS CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Wednesday morning, February 27th.</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>This morning I was over two hours cooking breakfast--the rain putting out the fire, causing me great trouble, and perplexing me very much.  I know you would laugh heartily if you could see us living here in the manner we do.  I often laugh over it myself.  Just imagine three of us occupying a small tent, seven by nine feet, cooking, sleeping upon the ground, and in fact trying our hand at almost everything necessary to be done in household affairs.  But how well we succeed I shall leave you to guess.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I must now bid you a sad adieu, a long farewell, perhaps forever, but I hope not.  I hope that in a year or two we may again meet in West Chester, but our long separation, I trust, will serve only to strengthen our affection and love and when we meet, we may meet never to separate again.  But time lingers for no man, and I must close.</P>
070.sgm:<P>May heaven bless you and protect you, may you never have a want or wish ungratified is the prayer and wish of your loving</P>
070.sgm:<P>CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>THE CALIFORNIA JOURNAL - I</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, February 15, 1850</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Tuesday, February 12th, we were landed with our baggage on the beach at a place called Happy Valley, about a mile east of the city, where we soon cleared a place and put up our tent and removed our trunks and bedding into it.  We then cooked our supper of tea and fried bread, and although this meal was quite humble and prepared by our own hands, I never partook of any that I enjoyed more, not even the best cured fowl.  Being determined to have as lively a time of it as circumstances would permit, we soon after introduced the violin and enjoyed ourselves in the giddy mazes of a real Spanish fandango for an hour or two.  About nine o'clock we arranged our trunks and placed our beds upon them.  Two of our party had to lie upon the ground, but Atkins and I had trunks enough to form a platform for our beds.  We then turned in without a single weapon by us, they all being locked up in our trunks, feeling quite as secure as when surrounded by thick and massive walls, and enjoyed as good a night's repose.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Happy Valley seems to derive its name from the merry character of its citizens who all live in tents, doing their own cooking and washing, and sleeping on the ground.  The ground is owned by the government and is reserved for a navy yard.  Several fine springs of excellent water are quite convenient and wood is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>My comrade and I have rambled the city from center to circumference in search of Mr. Jonathan Griffith, to whom we had letters of introduction from Judge Strickland of West Chester.  At length we found him and he gave us a most welcome reception and treated us with great hospitality.  We were not long enquiring about our friends and learned that a few of them were in the city, not more than paying expenses, while the greater number were at the diggings where they had been almost ever since their arrival.  At the last accounts Mr. Griffith had from them, they had done but little in the way of making money.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Whitaker had been taken ill at the mines and sent to this place with sufficient funds to winter, and recruit his health if possible.  But, alas!  A melancholy tale must now be told.  Poor Whitaker grew worse and worse and had to be removed to the hospital.  After suffering there for some time, he at length yielded his spirit up to his Maker, never uttering a murmur against his hard fate.  And thus died a young man who a few months before had been filled with the brightest hopes for the future.  He was young, intelligent, amiable, kind and gentle, industrious and enterprising.  He was beloved, respected and esteemed by all who knew him, and was never guilty of a mean action.  His body was interred at the public burying-ground a little to the west of the city, near the seashore, where the howling wind and roaring surf will sing him a suitable requiem.</P>
070.sgm:<P>But his is the case of thousands.  Every neighborhood in the States will yet have to hear of the bones of some of their best beloved and respected young citizens <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, February 20</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We are detained here in Happy Valley, keeping ourselves in readiness to attend the landing of our freight.  As yet we have been unable to get our goods off the vessel on account of the Captain's being drunk nearly all the time and having already discharged three or four sets of seamen.  There is no telling when we can leave this place.</P>
070.sgm:<P>At the request of two gentlemen from Wilmington, Delaware, who were fellow passengers in the <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm:, I have written an unvarnished tale and forwarded for publication to the editors of the <HI REND="italics">Blue Hen's Chicken</HI>
070.sgm: of that place, in the hope that when the villainous conduct of Captain Palmer and his rascally employers becomes known, those who are about coming after us may escape the hardships caused by the trickery and deception of these accomplished robbers.  Indeed the vessel was a perfect <HI REND="italics">Hades</HI>
070.sgm:<P>We find that we have encumbered ourselves with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Our section, composed of six persons, owns a variety of property in common, most of which we have disposed of, but not delivered because of the difficulty in getting it off the vessel.  Some were in a great hurry to sell our tent, of which I had thus far refused my consent.  But we had an offer of $45 for it and as dissatisfaction began to prevail, I thought I should take them at their word, and the tent was sold, possession to be given Monday morning.  This took some of them aback and they began discussing what they should do on the morrow.  But I cared little what they did.  Atkins and I can agree very well, and we decided to purchase a tent of our own and go to the mines together.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Immediately after breakfast Monday morning we struck our large section tent and carried it off to Clark's Point, where we met the persons we sold it to, and they paid me forty-five dollars in gold dust.  I did not like the dust, for in money it brings only fifteen and a half to the ounce, but when I came to exchange it for money, it made forty-six dollars and fifty cents, just making the percentage they charged for changing it.  McCowan, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>In the morning we generally have a thick, heavy fog; at noon the atmosphere is as warm as June in Philadelphia, and at night a cold westerly wind blows.  This evening while I am writing, our late seamen, being encamped quite near us, are singing some merry tunes.  They have no tents but have raised a kind of hut and covered it with their blankets.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Sunday evening while I was boiling mush to fry for breakfast, a Methodist preacher came up and invited me to attend prayer meeting in a large tent quite near our own.  I soon finished the mush and went to hear him awhile.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, February 22</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--This being Washington's birthday anniversary, the flags of the shipping were floating all day and guns were fired at regular intervals.  In the evening, rockets were seen flying in all directions.  About ten o'clock the Panama mail steamer came in with about four hundred passengers.  I bought a <HI REND="italics">New York Tribune</HI>
070.sgm: for California, for which I willingly paid two bits and considered myself lucky, they having sold an hour previous at a dollar per copy.  It was dated the 17th ult. and was therefore thirty-five days on the way, a tolerable quick passage, by the way.  Also I found a paper containing old "Zack's" message.  I read it with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Hearing that printers were wanted at San Jose&acute; to print the laws of California, I went up to the city yesterday and made some enquiry about the matter but the information I received was vague and unsatisfactory.  I therefore dropt the matter and thought no more about it.  In the afternoon Atkins and myself slung our rifles over our shoulders and rambled several miles along the bay, meeting with little but high rugged bluffs interspersed here and there by gentle slopes coming down to the water's edge.  We met with no game but ducks and water birds and they took good care to keep plenty far enough out of harm's way.  We therefore posted up a target and exercised in this way.</P>
070.sgm:<P>San Francisco is built upon a kind of crescent between the hills and an arm of the bay.  It is regularly laid out, the streets crossing each other at right angles.  The Grand Plaza is now nothing but a vacant square in a central part of the town, but will doubtless improve as the city improves and may in time become a handsome place.  One-half of the dwellings are composed of canvas tents, and about one-third of the buildings are hotels and gambling houses.  We visited a great number of the latter places where we saw all kinds of gaming going on.  Gambling here is an occupation, day or night, Sunday or any other time.  The grey-headed father and the beardless boy are seen side by side vying with each other who can win or lose the fastest, and even beautiful women engage in these games with the same earnestness of the sterner sex, betting their last ounce.  I have even heard of preachers delivering a good sermon and going directly from the pulpit to the gaming table.  McGowan, one of the Chester County bank robbers, is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The new custom house is a fine building and quite an ornament to the town.  The court house is a very small one-story frame, not half as prepossessing as one of our county school houses.  Here the grave judge and his associates sit and deal out justice to the crowd, and judging from the pile of bedding stowed in one corner, it is reasonable to suppose they sleep there also.  The city has but one wharf, but more are building and for the privilege of landing a single trunk, you are charged a cool dollar.  Money here goes like dirt; everything costs a dollar or dollars.  What is considered a fortune at home is here mere pocket money.  Today I purchased a single potato for 45 cents.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, February 24</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Early this morning the body of a dead man was found near our tent, no unusual occurrence.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Having promised a friend that I would accompany him to the Mission De Lones, about three miles distant, I dressed myself in a Christian style, doffing my red shirt and slouch hat, ate some bread and drank some water for breakfast, and then proceeded to the office of my friend.  He not being quite ready, I strolled up towards the post office.  A vast crowd had assembled and placed themselves in a line long before the office had been opened; and when the window opened, every man awaited his turn with the greatest impatience.  The line was long enough to keep the last ones waiting until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>After walking over the hills about an hour through sand ankle deep, we reached the mission, and found it to be a village of about three hundred inhabitants, with several long, low, one-story mud houses, all belonging to the church and rented out to families; some as dwellings, others as stores, hotels and gambling houses.  We attended church, the first church I have been in for about eight months.  The outside presented no unusual appearance but upon entering, the eye was dazzled by the vast amount of gilding presented to view; a great number of images were very handsomely gilded; the altar was splendid and over the centre a very sparkling diamond was placed.  The Catholic Church ceremony was thoroughly performed, and during the greater part of it, the choir played upon their violins, drums and triangles.</P>
070.sgm:<P>After church we fell in with a good party of Americans formerly belonging to the Navy, but now surveying out here.  They treated us well, informed us that fandangos took place there every Sunday evening except during Lent; and this being Lent season, they had procured especial permission from the priest to hold one on the previous Sunday evening, by paying him one hundred pounds of church candles, and he would grant no more unless well paid.  Two or three scrub races and a shooting match took place, however, in the afternoon.</P>
070.sgm:<P>On arriving in the city I went to the post office, and finding the crowd of the morning considerably scattered, determined to enter the line and try my luck.  I waited a little over an hour before getting to the window and then received a few papers and proceeded to Happy Valley, making my supper on bread and water.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, February 27</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--The air is very cold and piercing and the distant hills across the bay are covered with snow.  Last evening it commenced raining and hailing and continued all night and this forenoon.  In a tent a few feet distant from our own, a party of merry Englishmen were drinking, singing and revelling in drunkenness until near daylight, when they came to our tent, borrowed some matches, and insisted upon our drinking with them.  They occasioned much merriment.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have divided the money belonging to the section and found each member was entitled to $27 and while the others lost, I gained, on account of owning two shares, having purchased Mr. Huber's interest a few days previous for $20.  This afternoon we purchased three tin pans at $2.50 each.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We were notified to remove our quarters off Uncle Sam's property.  At noon today no one had complied with this request, and a company of armed soldiers were marched into camp and removed the tents and houses of several persons who would not otherwise comply.  Resistance was expected, but all passed off quietly.  It appears that the ground has been reserved, and has since been leased to several persons by the government, whose duty it is to put it in the possession of the said renters.  We removed our tent off the forbidden ground and all appears to be right.  I am nearly laid up by the poison, having caught it from the bushes where we cut our wood.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Today we had an Irishman with us who crossed the plains.  He told us some marvelous stories about the route, and stated he would not return that way again for all the gold in California.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, March 4</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--I have done the last clothes washing I intend to do before getting to the diggings.  I borrowed a tub and large kettle of Mrs. Sterling, and the washing went much better with hot fresh water than cold salt.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Atkins and myself have carried one of my trunks to Mr. Griffith's for safe-keeping during our absence.  The distance from Happy Valley to Mr. Griffith's is about two miles and we were tired of the task long before we had proceeded half the way.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Saturday was the most unpleasant day we have spent in the valley, the rain pouring down in torrents, wetting everything through and through, and a cold wind blowing during the whole time.  It was with the greatest difficulty we could get the fire to burn sufficient to boil our beef, potatoes and chocolate.  We bought a pound of chocolate for $1, and one pint of oil for 75 cents.  Not deeming our blankets sufficient to take with us, we each bought a pair of double blankets.  One of our party, McCowan, who has not been very well for a few days past, is heartily sick of the place and has been wishing himself out of the scrape.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Sunday I rambled up toward the city for the purpose of procuring a paper giving the departure of the several boats for Stockton.  The stores and hotels are kept open during the day and evening, and many workmen are busy in the streets as on any other day.  After buying a paper for 25 cents, in strolling along the streets, I accidentally halted before the Baptist chapel, and seeing the pews arranged according to home style, I entered and seated myself.  It being early and few persons in attendance, I hauled out my paper and read it thoroughly before the congregation assembled.  It reminded me more of home than anything I have seen or felt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We have now packed our things and have everything in readiness to leave for San Joaquin (pronounced San Wakein) in the steamer <HI REND="italics">Mint</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, March 11</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On Tuesday morning last, we arose early, partook a hasty breakfast, struck our tent, and with our baggage reached the steamer as she was about to start off.  The shores of the river presented nothing but high and rugged hills covered with low bushes or short grass.  By four o'clock in the afternoon we reached the city of Benicia, a small village about fifty miles from San Francisco.  Here the steamer run alongside an old vessel answering the double purpose of storehouse and wharf, and when she went to start off, we found she was fast in the mud, but she was soon gotten off, by a little backing and pulling.  We passed rolling ground until we reached New York a little after sunset, where we halted a few minutes to land some passengers.  It is also a small village.  After passing New York, the river became narrow and crooked and difficult of navigation, and although the steamer is very small, the engine had to be stopped often and poles taken to fend her off the banks.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Mint</HI>
070.sgm: has not more than half a dozen berths in her and these are for her own workmen.  We were pretty much crowded and a spot large enough for a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>During the greater part of Wednesday, it rained and was very disagreeable travelling.  The land we passed was almost as level as a floor and at many places the river has overflowed the banks and for miles nothing but a swamp was to be seen.  We reached San Joaquin about three Wednesday afternoon, landed our goods and pitched our tent on the river bank.  We use river water which is excellent, and get our wood close by.  When we arrived there were but two one-story houses here, and one of them covered with canvas, and six or eight tents, but there are now about a dozen tents. For 20 miles either way a level prairie is stretched out to view until it reaches the base of a range of high hills, the tops of which are covered with snow.</P>
070.sgm:<P>After breakfast next morning I took my rifle and strolled up the river about a mile, until I fell in with a couple of settlers who were cultivating a small patch of ground, intending to supply this embryo city with vegetables in time to come.  Ducks and geese are plentiful along the river but they are very shy and hard to shoot.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Parties of three and four are seen passing up the river every hour or two in small boats to the different mines.  But they are all like ourselves, not knowing how near their boats will carry them to the wished-for places, but willing to go and find out for themselves.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We have concluded to store our trunk, take our tent and what clothes we can on our backs, and start on the morrow for Wood's Diggings.  Before we came, we were informed that better accommodationswere to be found here for going to the mines than at Stockton, but at the latter place persons offered to carry freight for us to Wood's Diggings for twenty dollars per cwt., and here we cannot get our goods taken up at any price, and we have not enough to load a whole train of mules, and if we had, it would cost thirty-five dollar per cwt.  As we can carry no cooking utensils except a tin cup each, we have purchased and cooked three beef tongues at 37 1/2 cents apiece to take with us, and a few pounds of pilot bread at 20 cents per lb.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Although it is now the early part of March, the trees are beginning to spread out their green foliage, and the plains skirting the river are covered with fine green grass from three to five inches long upon which a large number of mules belonging to the camp, and a few scattered herds of cattle, are feeding.  We have been greeted by a great number of coyotes, small prairie wolves, barking and howling for an hour or two.  They appeared to be quite near camp, but as they are inoffensive and do no harm except to carry off bits of provisions if they have a chance, we were not in the least disturbed.  But last night a party of Californians commenced gambling and drinking in a tent close by and kept up their infernal noise and revels until daylight this morning, then fought with knives and separated.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Early this morning notice was posted against the door of the only house in this city that an election would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, March 14</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We were informed that a train of pack mules and teams were stopping for the night a few miles distant and would be along here on their way to the mines.  We therefore concluded to wait until they came up, in the hope that we could get them to carry our baggage.  A team arrived here about four Tuesday afternoon on its way to Mariposa Diggings.  We agreed with the teamster, Mr. Cox, to carry our baggage for $50 and postponed our departure on account of the hard rain that had been falling for two days.  He is from Iowa and has his family with him, consisting of his wife, and four or five children, all of them quite small except one.  Among them are two little girls.  He crossed the mountains and lost a great deal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>During the last two days two additional houses have been erected in the city and there are now three houses under roof and that many more lying on the landing ready framed for erection.  They are mere frame shells brought from the States.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Early this morning, the weather being promising, we started on our long march, following a trail that leads along the prairie between the river and the mountains.  Soon after we started, we chased up a large and beautiful hare.  We next saw innumerable flocks of geese, duck and brant, and fired several balls at these flying, but without effect.  We also saw a number of prairie squirrels that burrow in the ground.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Soon after dinner we fell in with four or five broken-down-lookingfellows on foot who were returning from the mines, and they gave us some rather discouraging accounts.  They told us that they had been there some five or six months without being able to make anything, and that hundreds were there working for their board alone. This did not in the least abate our bright anticipations and we are determined to go and see for ourselves.  About four in the afternoon we came to a small stream crossing the prairie, making the only camping ground for several miles; here we are now encamped for the night.  We have just concluded supper, cooking nothing but a cup of chocolate and soaking pilot bread in it.  Here are three tired boys!  Oh, how my poor legs ache!  I think I could almost rest forever.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, March 16</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Night before last it rained during the greater part of the night and the following <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Here we overtook teams from Texas and Arkansas and moved on a mile or two to get to good camping ground.  Before we reached our stopping place we had to cross several sloughs.  In one of these our team came very near sticking.  Atkins crossed on the wagon.  When in the middle of the stream, our camp kettle, in which our provisions for the journey were stored, took a notion to slip off the guide-pole upon which it was hanging, and to our utter horror we saw it going down the stream.  It was soon rescued however, from  the watery element, and our "bread and dinner" saved.  Mack and I had to wade again, but here the boots were of no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We soon reached camp, cooked our supper, and put our weary bodies to rest.  My feet were blistered in a horrible manner.  During the day we saw a drove of wild horses on the plain several miles distant.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This morning being beautiful, the train moved at an early hour, and after crossing a few more sloughs, reached a more elevated plain.  Here we struck out a course and at the end of ten miles over which a civilized foot had probably never trod, we struck a wagon trail leading us on toward the Merced River.  The greater part of the plain is quite sandy and very little vegetation upon it.  We chased up a number of hare and several prairie wolves.  In the afternoon we saw a very large grey wolf lying dead on the road.  While away from its mountain home it had been unfortunate enough to fall in with some hunter.  About sunset we came to good camping ground.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Hardie's Ferry is 25 miles from San Joaquin City and our camp is 20 miles from the ferry.  You may therefore well know that the day's tramp has been no benefit to sore feet and aching bones.  We had not laid in a sufficient stock of provisions and this evening I purchased a chunk of meat of Mr.  Cox for $1.25, which is now (eight P.M.) over the fire, stewing.  We are in sight of the celebrated Sierra Nevada, whose high peaks are covered with snow the whole year round.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, March 18</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On Sunday the sun rose beautifully and at an early hour we started on our journey.  Until then we had passed over nothing but low, level plains, but as we approached the mountains the land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We commenced our journey again early this morning and crossed the Merced River about 10 A.M. in a flat boat, for which four teams, ours among the number, paid $5 each.  A team that had crossed just before us paid $10, but it was a regular trader.  The reduction was made on account of our teams belonging to emigrants reaching the mines for the first time.  The ferry is known as the New York Company's Ferry.</P>
070.sgm:<P>As soon as we crossed this river the worst part of our journey commenced, for then we entered the high hills bordering the Sierra Nevada, climbing high rugged precipices and crossing low swampy quagmires, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, March 19</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--This morning we moved on a few and encamped upon a small stream of water within less than a mile of where some two or three hundred workmen are engaged digging and washing out the precious ore.  We were a little over five days on our journey from San Joaquin City to this place and we supposse we have made about eighty or eighty-five miles.  Our long voyage at sea unfitted us for such a tramp and hence we have been almost worn out, but a day or two's rest, we hope, will restore our usual vigor.  For the past few days Atkins was apparently improving rapidly, but today he took a relapse and I fear he may have a hard sickness.  He is just able to keep out of bed, and is down in spirits a little.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There are four or five tents near our own, belonging to emigrants who came across the plains, all hardy, industrious fellows well suited for this kind of life.  After dinner we strolled out to the diggings and there saw large numbers at work, digging, washing in rockers and pans, and draining out water, for a long distance along a mountain rivulet.  These diggings are known as Burns' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>On our return from the diggings to camp we happened in a provision store, made of canvas, of course, for there are none others within many miles.  We purchased 12 lbs. of pork at 50 cents, 2 1/2 pounds of navy bread at 75 cents and one pound of brown sugar at 62 1/2 cents.  To exhibit the state of our financial affairs, I need only state that I arrived in San Francisco with $27 in my pocket and my comrade with even less, but by selling our provisions, a lot of clothes, and his tools, we raised about $85 apiece.  Now I have twenty-seven dollars and each of my partners less.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, March 21st</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Our repose at night  has been somewhat interrupted by the almost continual braying of mules feeding on the hills near by.  Yesterday morning McCowan and I wandered some distance up the creek in search of wood for shovel handles, but we found it a very difficult matter to get anything straight enough.  We therefore cut down a small oak with our hatchets, took the butt and split it in two, and dressed them.  But they made rather indifferent handles, so much so that I cut a willow last evening and use it in preference to the oak.  A short, spreading scrub kind of oak and willow are the only kind of trees I have seen in this country.</P>
070.sgm:<P>In the afternoon McCowan took his spade and I my wash pan and proceeded to the diggings.  After "prospecting" a short time and washing a panful of sand without finding any gold, we moved on and struck our spade into a new place at the water's edge.  From our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>This morning McCowan and I carried our wash pans and mining implements to a place about a mile and a half distant from our tent and dug, washed and sifted the earth for about six hours and then returned to camp early in order to cook some pancakes, or rather "slapjacks."  I gathered about a dollar of "the dust" and McCowan not quite as much.  Digging and washing in a pan is mighty hard and dirty work, and not to be laughed at; but that I anticipated, and it cannot intimidate me.  A cradle is much needed by us, but as they cannot be bought for less than $50, we have to work without.  Shovels second hand are worth $8 each.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This evening we were visited by a strolling band of Indians, six in number, armed with their bows and arrows and some of them almost nude, having nothing but a check shirt and cap on.  They are a poor, miserable-looking set of devils, speak a very little Spanish, and were out on a begging excursion.  One of our neighbors gave them beef enough for supper and breakfast.  They are making the welkin ring with their loud songs, and will sleep on the ground around a large fire during the night.  One of them had a piece of reed as thick as a man's finger and about five inches long, stuck through his ears as marks of renown.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, March 23d</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--McCowan and I started ourspecting with our pans and shovels early Friday <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>In company with Atkins who is still sick I took a walk up to Burns' store, thinking a little walk would do him good.  I carried my letters with me, the store being the express office, to forward to San Francisco and there be mailed for the United States.  The express runs up and down once a month from all the mines to San Francisco, and carries letters down upon prepaying 50 cents upon each, and brings up letters for two dollars with the postage added, to those whose names are enrolled.  This express is connected with Adams &amp; Co.'s Express in the Atlantic States, and is a great convenience to persons here.  They are favored but little at the San Francisco post office and have to hire the privilege of allowing their clerks to examine letters in the office at night after it is closed.  They deserve much credit for their energy and enterprise.</P>
070.sgm:<P>While at the store, I saw a lot of butter which they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:sell at $2.50 per pound.  I examined it particularly.  I have not seen any for so long that it has become quite a curiosity.  We purchased a small loaf of soft bread for Atkins for 75 cents.  Heretofore we have several times attempted to manufacture some good cakes out of flour, known in this country as "flap jacks," but they always came out heavy dough things which we could hardly eat.  This evening we tried it again and succeeded almost beyond our most sanguine expectations.  We had mixed up a little flour and water for the purpose of souring, but when we came to look at it this afternoon we found it had not turned.  We therefore added a little acid which soon made it sour enough.  We then mixed it up with a few handfuls of flour, and water, and added a small quantity of saleratus, and some sugar.  We took our frying pan and placed a few bits of fat pork in it and poured the batter in and baked or fried it for some time.  Such delicious cakes as we had, I have not tasted for a long time.  With a little molasses and pork they eat very well.  Our progress in the art of cooking is slow but this, I suppose, results from the want of a teacher.  We have to experiment on everything until we get it to suit our tastes, and what is learned in this way will not soon be forgotten.  We can now get up some <HI REND="italics">fine dishes</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, March 24</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We are encamped on the main road to the Mariposa Diggings and hundreds of heavily packed mules and a few teams have been passing daily.  Several of Mr. Cox's acquaintances who crossed the mountains with him are with us, and they have sent on a couple of their number to Mariposa for authentic information as to the state of things there.  Mr. Cox has concluded to wait until they return when we shall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The weather is now warm and serene as in the middle of June at home, and it being near full moon, the evenings are mild and beautiful.  The hills are covered with green verdure and the trees are sending forth their green shoots.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Cox and his friends who had been out hunting returned laden with the four quarters of a fat deer they had slain, and very kindly sent us a small piece.  We had an excellent venison supper.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, March 20</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--All things being in readiness yesterday morning and the weather being propitious, we again started on the march with the four other teams.  Our course lay nearly due east, and we soon commenced ascending high, steep and rugged hills where the scrubby oak was rivalled by the pine.  In climbing some of the steep hills our camp kettle with some well-cooked beef and pork again slipped off the guide-pole, upon which it was hanging, and when we stopped to take a little dinner and looked for it, it wasn't there.  As we advanced, the country became still more rugged and uneven.  The peaks of some of the loftiest mountains we were crossing were covered with snow, and their sides thickly studded with brushwood.  While in the States, we often read of the lofty pine and redwood that abounded so plentifully in California, but I have now travelled over nearly 300 miles through the country without seeing the first sign of anything like stately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>On account of the rain which fell yesterday afternoon and evening, the roads were bad and slippery, and we got on but slowly on our tramp today.  We had not proceeded far until we saw the huge tracks of a grizzly bear that had crossed the road on his way to some of the hills by which we were surrounded.  About ten o'clock we reached the top of a high hill from which a beautiful view was presented.  A little way before us lay stretched out for many miles a range, the summits of which were covered with a sheet of white snow; and far beyond could be seen the high peaks of the Sierra Nevada, situatedin the region of eternal snow.  A heavy cloud had for a moment obscured the sun and as it passed off, the distant snow-clad mountains shone and glistened as though they were formed of pure silver.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We passed a branch of the Agua Frio Mines where a number of French and Mexicans were industriously engaged digging and washing out the sand.  They were making but little.  About three in the afternoon we reached a good camping ground in the midst of the Mariposa Diggings and pitched our tent in the woods near the base of a high hill.  I then sallied forth in search of stores and found several.  I purchased 1/4 pound of saleratus at $2.50 per pound.  Molasses is worth $6 per gallon and brandy $3 per bottle.  For flour I paid 50 cents per pound and 62 1/2 cents for pork.  I then returned to camp and prepared some cakes for supper.  My companions are both sick and rather down in spirits.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Atkins turned in early as usual and soon after he had lain down he hollered out for me to come into the tent, and upon going in andenquiring the cause, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:found that a large red lizard six or eight inches long had taken possession of our bed.  I soon made the creature <HI REND="italics">vamos</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I have had but little time or opportunity to learn much about the mines further than that they are very rich.  According to some rules in force here, each man is allowed twenty feet on each bank of the river, that is if he can get it, but for miles the river is staked off and every foot apparently taken up, so it is very difficult to get a place.  We are here with about ten dollars each in our pockets, two out of three in ill health, provisions very high, and getting a hole difficult; all added make our prospects a little gloomy, but still I am not disposed to give up or despair.  This evening I am tired and sleepy and intend taking one of Dr. Nelson's pills upon going to bed.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, March 31st</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--I rambled several miles up and down the stream on Wednesday endeavoring to find a vacant lot.  Just before noon I squatted upon a lot which I supposed vacant and commenced digging, but when I returned from dinner an old claimant came forth and I had to leave.  In the afternoon I was more fortunate for I happened to find another which I can hold beyond doubt.  I dug a hole in it and placed my tools there as evidence it was taken up.  The next day I went down to my lot and threw out some dirt.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The weather being fine and very warm on Friday, in the forenoon I cut down and logged off a piece five feet long, of a large pine twenty inches in diameter, to hew a cradle out of it.  It was mighty hard work and such blisters as appeared on my hands before I was half done, I had not been troubled with this many a day.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday morning we again went to work.  Who would ever have thought that three old bachelors like ourselves would be caught making a cradle for our own use?  McCowan and myself worked steadily at it all day and yet it is not finished.  It will require at least another day's work.  In making it, about six feet of boards are requisite and this we had to hew out of the solid timber.  I find it the hardest work ever I was engaged in.  Boards are worth more than five times as much per hundred as they are per thousand at home, and yet this country abounds in tolerable good pine.  But there is not a saw mill within several hundred miles.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Hearing of a vacant lot about two miles down the river, I shouldered my shovel after breakfast this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:morning, and tramped down to the place, but was unable to find the particular one.  As I went for the purpose of <HI REND="italics">getting a lot</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Tomorrow an election takes place for judge, sheriff, and other county officers, and today a meeting was held at one of the drinking and gambling establishments for the purpose of forming a ticket to be voted for.  As I was returning home, I stopped a little while but the meeting had not then been organized and as I supposed it would not, I left shortly after.  I heard one Captain Miller, who was a candidate, swear he had fought the guerrillas in the Mexican War, and upon one occasion he said he had saved the United States five millions of dollars, when it was near being lost at the National Bridge.  To add to his other qualifications he was then gambling and pretty well overcome by red-eye.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, April 3d</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--It is a cool, beautiful evening and I am now seated on a log by the side of a fine blazing fire in front of our tent, giving the proceedings of the past three days.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The above picture will answer as a likeness of myself and will help to explain a miner's life.  The likeness shows me fully equipped in the garb of a miner, with rough monkey coat, broad-brimmed California hat, and long, shaggy beard, as though not shaved for half a year, which is really the case.  I am standing in a hole to the depth of my knees, with my pick raised high in the air; my spade and <HI REND="italics">washbowl</HI>
070.sgm: are lying upon the ground by my side.  A little way off is Clint Atkins <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:working a cradle, and our partner pouring water, thus extracting the yellow <HI REND="italics">ore</HI>
070.sgm:<P>A little beyond, behold a <HI REND="italics">tent</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I have tried my hand at baking bread.  After kneading up the dough, I took the frying pan, as we had no oven, and placed the dough in it, and turned a plate upside down over it.  I then placed the pan on some good live coals and also covered the inverted plate over with them.  It succeeded first-rate and we have feasted on soft bread.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Monday I passed the election ground twice but seeing no voting done did not stop.  We finished our cradle and I went down the creek several miles again in search of another lot, abandoning the one I had pitched upon last and finding another nearer home.  Yesterday McCowan and I dug a large trench through our lot but were prevented from getting down to the rock upon which the ore is deposited by the water coming in upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<illus entity="a070-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE GOLD MINER"The above picture will answer as a likeness of myself, equipped in the garb of a miner."--From a woodcut found in Enos Christman's papers.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>This afternoon, finding we were in want of provisions and nearly out of funds, we resolved to get a supply on credit if possible.  We succeeded, and lay in a stock amounting to $16.  We also purchaseda small skillet, or stewpan, to supply the place of our kettle, for three dollars, and a few nails at $1.60 per pound.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I fell in with Mr. Speeden, chief mate of the <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Atkins is convalescent, and I hope will be very well in a few days.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, April 8th</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Being stiffened and disabled by the poison for four days, I could not work much but the poison is gradually disappearing and I am again able to move around quietly.  I have done little but wash my clothes, which is always an unpleasant piece of work.  McCowan did nothing but his washing either.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Friday the sky was overcast with dark clouds.  During the night it didn't rain but <HI REND="italics">poured</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Sunday was quite dull and time hung heavily.  I read my Bible and snoozed away in the land of dreams part of the time.  Atkins has taken a relapse and is considerably worse again.  McCowan also is not as well as he was a few days since, and is now quite disgusted, with Mariposa in particular and the gold mines in general.  He is determined to leave as soon as possible and endeavor to get a berth at his trade, blacksmithing.  But <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We have several different varieties of the feathered tribe here that are not found at home, and among them is the magpie, somewhat larger than our blue jay but like him in his form and actions; and the large, jet black raven, somewhat larger than our common crow.  Numbers of partridges are seen nearly every day within a hundred yards of our tent; and almost all kinds of game, from the little burrowing prairie squirrel to the huge and fierce grizzly bear, abound within twenty miles of us either in the valleys along streams or on the borders of the snow crest Sierra Nevada.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I practised a little this morning at target firing with my rifle.  I sold a large bowie knife for five dollars, cost four in Philadelphia; and bought a sack of flour, <HI REND="italics">100</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, April 10th</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We are having delightful weather, the sun shining warm and clear from time of rising to setting without a passing cloud to dim his brightness.  Yesterday we spread out our blankets and dried them well and covered the floor of our tent with pine twigs to raise us off the ground and render our beds softer and more comfortable.  I read several chapters in the Bible.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This morning while at breakfast, Mr. Cox came up and informed me that two men were at work upon my claim.  This surprised me very much, as I had been working upon it only two days before, myself, and they had no authority as my tools were left upon the lot, thereby fully complying with the regulations which require persons holding claims to work upon them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I then sunk a hole about five feet square and about four and a half in depth on the bank of the stream, but at that depth the water came in and prevented me from going any deeper.  I commenced another hole on the opposite side, which I intend to finish tomorrow, and if possible, to dig something out of it.</P>
070.sgm:<P>While at work I saw a number of native Californians slay an ox.  It was done in this wise: They first rode after him until they succeeded in fastening the lasso upon one fore leg.  When this was done he became very furious and rushed at the horse, to which the lasso was fastened, several times.  He was then surrounded by several men with lassoes endeavoring to catch him over the head.  After rushing furiously upon them a number of times and throwing one of them head over heels down the hill, two of them caught hold of his tail and by means of the horse pulling one way and the men in the opposite direction, they had him fast long enough for one of them to fasten a loop around both his hind legs, when they threw him down, tied him and cut his throat.  As soon as they had it dressed I went over and purchased the head with the skin on it for $1.25.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, April 12th</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Early yesterday while I was digging a hole to put the beef head in, Mrs. Cox told me that the express had come in the night before.  This was glowing intelligence to me for I had wished and expected to hear from home.  I immediately proceeded to the office and found one letter from Miss Emma Hunter and although I had hoped to receive something from some others, I was satisfied with this.  I paid $2.40 for this letter and was very glad to get it.  Papers, the express could not obtain, or rather, if they did, they could not make a trip more than once in three months.  The forenoon I devoted to search of gold but the high water drove me out and I employed the afternoon in writing to Miss Hunter.  I prevailed upon Atkins to consult a physician and he gave him some medicine.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, April 15</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--The last two days have been extremely hot during the middle part of the day, without a breath of air stirring.  Saturday morning I helped my comrade, McCowan, to carry his trappings from our tent to the wagon in which he was going, and bade him a farewell grasp of the hand on his departure for San Francisco.  I then started out "prospecting" with tin pan and spade on shoulder, but met with no success.  Towards evening I dug a little on my lot, and never enjoyed a better night's rest than I did that night.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Sunday evening as we were about retiring, Mr. Speeden, in company with a friend, came to our tent and wanted to borrow our U. S. rifles to go out in pursuit of Indians.  During the evening a man had come in wounded badly and almost exhausted from the loss of blood, and related a heartrending tale about his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>They lay unmolested until about an hour before dawn, when they were both suddenly awakened by being shot through the legs with arrows.  They immediately raised up and beheld ten Indians at a short distance, and although unable to stand, they seized their rifles and fired and two Indians fell, but whether they killed them or not they were unable to tell as they could not go to see.  Many of these wild Indians fall upon the ground as if killed at the mere report of a gun.  Both of the white men had been lying with the blankets over their heads and this accounts for them being shot in the legs.  The Indians, it is supposed, took their feet for their heads and fired with the intention of shooting them in the bodies.  They were over twenty-four hours before they succeeded in stopping the flow of blood and they fainted away several times.  They were each shot through and through the legs about the knee, and they could not use them in the least.  They therefore each cut a cane or staff and turning their rifles upside down made them answer for crutches.  In this way they hobbled on a long time, when one of them, who was wounded worst, gave out.  His companion was not for leaving him, but he begged and entreated him not to lie down and perish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>This morning a company of about twenty-five, provided with arms and suitable supplies, went out in search of the lost man and in pursuit of the Indians, guided by the wounded man whose strength was so much renewed by a good night's rest and food that he was able to ride on horseback.  We gave them our rifles and one hundred balls and offered our services if their party was not strong enough.  This is the second attack the Indians have made upon lone parties, having captured a man about seven miles out a few days since.  Indeed they are getting quite troublesome and we may well fear that the red man's swift, winged arrow, his rude tomahawk, or savage scalping knife will be the messenger of The Destroyer to many a brave heart before the season is over.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Indians have been pilfering and stealing mules for a long time in this vicinity.  On one occasion three mules and a lot of flannel shirts were stolen from the lower encampment and when going to pursue, the owner found the place where they had killed and eaten the mules, leaving nothing but the skins and bones.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Our store bill was presented this forenoon for payment, the storekeeper having sold his stock and about going away.  I told him I could not pay it without selling many things that I could hardly do without, and upon thus representing the matter to him he agreed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, April 17</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--I have prospected enough to dig out about 75 cents, and I have been digging and ditching on the lot, hoping soon to master the water.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday afternoon a bloody tragedy was enacted in the town, resulting in the death of a young man named Marcey, of Massachusetts. A man named Messick accused Marcey of robbing him of seven hundred dollars while on a drunken frolic together last winter, and it is said had sworn to shoot Marcey the first time he saw him.  He had armed himself early in the morning with a double-barrelled shot gun heavily charged with buckshot, and lay in wait until the afternoon, expecting Marcey to pass that way.  By and by Marcey made his appearance, only armed with a sheath knife and revolver, as is usual in this country, and an altercation took place, in which Marcey endeavored to clear himself of the charges brought against him.  He was about going away when Messick cocked both barrels of his gun and asked the other if he was armed, and he replied that he was, and that he would fight him in a fair fight but he would not fight in that way.  Messick then told him to defend himself, to which he replied that he might fire if he would.  At this he fired one barrel which the other received principally in the right arm, and instantly turned with his back towards the man with the gun, who seeing that the other did not fall, immediately fired the other barrel which took effect through the lungs and heart.  Marcey fell, uttered a few words and was a corpse in a few minutes.  Messick, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Last night was the coldest night we have had since our arrival in Mariposa, a very heavy frost having fallen, and the tin pans containing water outside of our tent were frozen entirely over.  We sat out by our campfire, enjoying the magnificent moonlight evening.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, April 20</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Thursday morning I commenced work upon a lot in partnership with two men, and after ditching and clearing off the top of the ground, we came to the top of the blue clay.  We washed a few panfuls from which we found enough dust as we think will pay us for washing with a cradle.  We intend to wash in that way and see how it turns out.  If it pays well, we intend to get a pump as one is now kept steadily bailing water out of the hole, and we have to work in soft mud and water six inches deep.  But yesterday upon going to the hole we had dug, we found that it was entirely filled and overflowed with water, and it was deemed impracticable to work unless we stood in water up to our knees.  Not feeling at all well, I concluded that we would have to abandon it for the present, and we did nothing the remainder of the day.  We saw several lumps of gold belonging to an Irishman who is in partnership with a colored man and an American.  The largest lump was a beautiful specimen of pure gold weighing just a pound.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Speeden returned our rifles, but not in half as good order as when he received them, as well as losing the extra tube out of the box of Atkins'.  Neither did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The party found the young man, Smith, about 14 miles distant, still alive and in very good spirits, with the marks of eight arrow shots.  They brought him in but it is feared his wounds will yet prove mortal.  I understand a strong party contemplates scouring the mountains thoroughly in a few days, in search of the bloody savages.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, April 28</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Last Sunday morning, Atkins, feeling very well, proposed a walk down to the city, not having been more than one hundred yards from our tent at any previous time.  He has been ill ever since we left San Francisco and has not yet stuck his spade into the ground.  I hope he will soon be well, yet I hardly believe he will ever be able to work in the mines.  I took him around and showed him the sights.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have been dreadfully sick since last Sunday, being confined to my bed nearly all the time and taking quantities of medicine every day.  The pain is almost exclusively confined to the head and right side of the face, the result of a slight cold, but if left to continue a few days without medical treatment it would have resulted in <HI REND="italics">brain fever</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I killed a snake in our tent, and the day previous I killed two very ugly wood lizards.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, May 3</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--I have been too tired to give the proceedings of the day, and this evening the case is not much better.  Monday I went up to where Cox's boys were at work and saw them take out a little gold dust.  Then I went down the creek to look at my lot, and fell in with an old man by the name of Smith, of Michigan, who was formerly a cattle drover, well acquainted with and a warm friend of General Cass.  He wanted a hand to work for him.  We soon struck a bargain and I was to try how all things suit, at four dollars per day and found.  Tuesday morning I arose early, prepared breakfast and partook thereof heartily, and then proceeded to the theatre of work, but I waited a considerable time before my employer made his appearance.  When he came, we went to work, digging, carrying dirt, and washing pretty steadily, until near twelve o'clock when he had to go and prepare dinner for himself and me, it being in the contract for him to board me.  In half an hour he called me to dinner, consisting of a cup of coffee strong enough to float a millstone, two small pieces of fat pork, fried and burned and a pancake apiece, made of flour and water, fried in pork fat, and about as heavy as its size in lead.  After a pretty good rest we again went to work and continued until about an hour before sunset, when we stopped.  He wanted me to come on the next day and I told him I would rather board myself and he agreed to give me five dollars per day and I find myself.  We were in the water part of the time up to our knees, and washed out fourteen dollars.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>On Wednesday we washed out some sand and found about three dollars.  Mr. Smith then told me he was too poor to hire help any longer and proposed I should join him in partnership to work out a large hole.  To this I consented and expect to go to work at it in a few days.  Yesterday I went to work on the quartz diggings for a gentleman at five dollars per day.  The work was very hard, and I never did a day's work in my life that tired me as much.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This morning I felt too tired and sore to undergo another day's work like yesterday and hence I concluded to rest.  I did my washing and bought a few pounds of beef and potatoes.  The latter were for Atkins, who is worse again, and the doctor now has him under a strict course of dieting.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The weather is growing oppressively hot and today a blue smoke like our Indian summer is spread around everything, while the sun would be melting us, did not a cool and gentle breeze from the northwest purify and cool the heated air.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday May 9</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Sunday I went down to the city and received pay for three-fourths of a day's work done on Thursday last, $3.75.  I attended an auction and saw champagne and other liquors selling for a little more than one-half what they can be bought for at home.  Every kind of business, except mining, appears brisker on Sunday than any other time and the gambling and drinking houses are better patronized than on any other day.  Indeed, Sunday here is a great day.  We have Sabbath School and preaching in the fore and afternoon, and performances on the stage in the evening.  I read my Bible, made a purse, and did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Soon after breakfast Monday morning, I started in company with Mr. Cox and several others, for Agua Frio, a small stream which empties into the Mariposa, its bed much rougher than the latter.  Between here and there are some of the largest hills that I ever climbed, from the tops of which a wide and extensive view is had.  To the east the great Sierra Nevada Mountains can be seen piling their snowy peaks over each other until they are lost in the distance, and in all other directions nothing but high hills are presented, perfectly barren or covered with a few scrubby oaks and pines, or a thick coating of low bushes or chaparral.  A great number of Indians, Californians, and Mexicans, and but few Americans, are at work there, doing tolerably well--much better, I believe, than here.  We made but little.  However, it must be known that we only went out prospecting and washed but little dirt.  At night I returned home tired and weary.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The next morning I went down the creek with the intention of going to work with Mr. Smith, but found that he was still not ready.  I therefore dug a hole on my lot but was prevented from getting to the slate by the water coming in upon me.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I commenced work with Mr. Smith and a young man named Warren Phinney of Boston, for one-fourth of what we can dig out, Mr. Smith owning the lot and having done a great deal of work upon it.  I worked faithfully at the pump today, keeping the water out until noon.  Three of us washed out about five dollars, but hope to do better tomorrow.  Yesterday we washed only an hour and took out about two dollars.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>A young man camped above us died.  It is said his death was produced by taking medicine.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Strange as it may appear, it is nevertheless true that a <HI REND="italics">marriage</HI>
070.sgm:<P>While going up to camp to get my dinner I saw the express wagon pass down towards the city.  I expected letters by it and immediately after dinner I put all the money I had, seven dollars, in my pocket and went down to the express office and enquired for letters.  Four were handed me at two dollars each, making eight dollars.  I paid the seven I had and asked them to trust me for the other until evening, knowing that I had five dollars due me for a day's work last week; this I collected and paid in the evening as I had promised.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, May 14</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Friday we washed out five dollars, then worked in a small hole that required the pump to be kept going steadily.  We worked in the water most of the time over our boot tops, throwing out a heap of sand and clay to wash later.  When I returned from work I had to change my clothes, being wet nearly all over.  All day Saturday we worked hard in mud and water, and in the evening divided our pile of dust.  I had as reward for five days' hard labor, $2.90.  We hoped the work in this hole would turn out better.  I believe it was Shakespeare who said, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Sunday morning I baked a loaf of bread, washed my clothes, and read a copy of the <HI REND="italics">New York Sun</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Two more days of toil and labor are now over and I am scarcely a penny richer than when I commenced work yesterday morning, having realized only seventy-five cents.  I have now worked, faithfully, in mud and water, knee deep part of the time, and have taken out as my share the astonishing sum of $3.65.  I am convinced that we cannot get a worse place for digging than this is and would therefore be willing to leave for almost any place.  I do not believe these mines can be worked to any advantage until the middle of August or later.  Almost everybody has left and I have full faith in their wisdom as regards this particular case.  I have made arrangements to leave with Mr. Cox, who will go with a friend, Mr. Hilliard, in the morning, for Tuolumne Diggings, some 60 or 70 miles from this place the way we have to go.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We sold 32 pounds of flour to lighten the weight we had, at 20 cents per pound, and with this we have but about ten dollars, besides owing a note of fifty-six dollars for provisions, and Atkins' doctor bill of some thirty dollars.  Thus, one can see that things are going the wrong way, for we leave with a poorer hand than we came in with.  My doctor bill for five days' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>About four weeks since, this valley was crowded with gold seekers and every foot of ground on the creek was taken up for three miles, and lots were selling at from an ounce to $200; but now how changed the scene!  The valley is nearly deserted and hundreds of claims are abandoned after many days' labor upon them, mine among the rest.  Storekeepers are selling out and the place will soon be forsaken until fall, when the river bed can be worked.  The theatre has closed and in lieu thereof a bull fight takes place on Sunday next.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We heard of another murder which took place near or at Merced Diggings.  The man, named John Edwards, charged with the murder, is now in custody here and will be tried in June by the court of the county.  The evidence against him is very slight.  The murdered man was a Chinese.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, May 24</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--About noon on Wednesday, the 15th instant, we took up the line of march expecting to go to the Tuolumne Diggings.  But after going some distance the teams concluded to go on down to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We had plenty of water until we passed the Merced River, which we crossed at Water's Ferry on Friday, the morning of the third day's march.  Here the ferry man told me that I could obtain water along the road at convenient distances, so I did not fill my canteen.  We had a long parched tract of rolling prairie land, of some twenty-three miles, to cross, and I did not find any water until we came to a stagnant pool known in the country as Dry Lake.  This lake was hemmed in on all sides by high hills and as there was no outlet, the water was warm and slimy.  But notwithstanding this, being very thirsty, I lay down and heartily drank something less than a barrel.  As a consequence, as I suppose, of this imprudence, I nearly died with the colic on Sunday.  A young acquaintance and I were pushing forward, our rifles slung over our shoulders, driving a cow and calf, and we reached the next river, the Tuolumne, at twilight on Saturday evening, an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>When the teams came up, it was discovered that my companion, Atkins, was missing.  He had not been seen for some time with the teams, and I at once concluded he had taken sick and given out, and after procuring a bottle of good cool river water to carry to him, I started back and met him after going about a mile.  He had taken sick and become much exhausted for water, and had been lying by the roadside for some time, expecting I would be back after him.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Just as Mr. Cox reached the Tuolumne River at Jackson's ranch, one of the wheels of his wagon gave out, and on Sunday we lay there in a camp, in order to repair the damages.</P>
070.sgm:<P>On Monday morning when we were ready to cross the river we were informed that the ferry rope had broken and we could not cross until near evening.  In the evening we crossed the river, but it was too late to go on to the next water, so we were compelled to remain overnight.  The next day we intended to go to the Stanislaus River, but before we had proceeded far, the tire came off two of the wheels of Mr. Hilliard's wagon and we were able to go only as far as Dry Creek, very aptly called, for in its bed we found only here and there a small pond of warm stagnant water.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We crossed the Stanislaus at Islip's Ferry the next day and proceeded to the Love Tree, making twenty-two miles, where we remained overnight.  I fell in with Mr. Alex. F. Platt of Newcastle, Delaware, an old shipmate, and through him heard of many others.  He was going up to Savage's Creek where his companions were.  Yesterday we travelled about 23 miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The agricultural capacities of California have been greatly overrated, for here is a vast tract of country, eighty miles long and fifty wide, no better than a burning desert, scarcely affording sufficient coarse herbage to feed the teams that are crossing over it.  No crop could grow upon it without irrigation and the rivers are so situated that it can never be irrigated.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We have now hardly money enough to keep us a week.  We are <HI REND="italics">hard up</HI>
070.sgm:, not having five dollars at our command, yet I feel nowise disheartened or discouraged, but hope to make a <HI REND="italics">few</HI>
070.sgm: dollars this summer.  I walked to Stockton this morning and proceeded to the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Atkins is still too sick to work.  But rich or poor as long as he is sick I shall stick by him and it shall never be said of me that I deserted a friend when health and fortune failed.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, June 1</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We have moved our camp about three miles and are now encamped on the Calaveras River, a small stream.  Leaving his teams and family <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Next morning, in company with Mr. Hilliard, I crossed the Calaveras, paying 50 cents for being carried over.  We looked out for a fine lot of grass for the purpose of making hay.  Mr. Hilliard found a place where he went to work on the morrow.  We found several parties mowing, with one of which I engaged to work at five dollars per day and found.  On Wednesday morning I went to work mowing and worked until after sunset, then eat supper, and made a bed of hay and turned in.  It proved the softest I have slept in since I left Philadelphia.  In the morning I again went to work but felt too ill to continue at it later than ten o'clock, when I quit and came home to camp.  Mr. Cox has returned from the mines with an unfavorable report.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Feeling pretty well this morning, I walked into town in hopes of finding something to do, or purchase a scythe on credit.  In the latter I was entirely unsuccessful.  Scythes ready rigged for cutting grass are now bringing from forty to sixty dollars and this is considered reasonable as they sold for seventy-five and eighty dollars two weeks since.  But in the former I was rather more fortunate inasmuch as one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Stockton Times</HI>
070.sgm: told me to come to work on Tuesday, as he wished to hire help three or four days next week, and intimated that it might prove a permanent position for me.  I agreed to come at the appointed time and returned to camp with rather less weight upon my mind than I had done for several days.  The express from San Francisco came in but brought nothing for any of us.  I mailed a letter to the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, June 3</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--I remained in camp all day Sunday trying to rest, but was prevented from doing so by the devilish mosquitoes.  They are a perfect pest here, and have nearly devoured some of our party.  In order to free ourselves of these pests, we have built small fires at night for the purpose of smoking them off, but which would prove the greatest nuisance, the smoke or the mosquitoes, we were not able to determine.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This morning I accompanied Atkins across the Calaveras, where I collected the five dollars due me for last Wednesday's work.  He engaged to work at haymaking for five dollars per day and commenced forthwith.  I then returned to camp and packed his blankets and forwarded them across the river where he can get them after his first day's work is over.  This is the first labor he has undertaken since leaving San Francisco, and I fear he will not be able to endure this many days.  Messrs. Cox, Hilliard &amp; Co. purchased scythes this morning at thirty-five dollars each, and are going into the hay business tomorrow.  The grass is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>About twilight a coon fight took place in the bushes quite near camp.  We immediately went in chase but they escaped.  Coons are quite abundant here, and badgers are also found.  This evening I packed my blankets into town in order to get to work in the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June 9</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On Tuesday morning last, I commenced type sticking in the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
070.sgm:<P>The foreman gave me ten dollars last evening, at the same time telling me I could get nothing from the editor because he was lying in the sanctum, drunk.  Wages here are fifty dollars per week, and I now have some prospect of receiving steady employment as they have purchased a new press and materials and contemplate enlarging their sheet in a short time.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I walked out to where our companions were encamped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June 30</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--During the past three weeks I have been steadily engaged in the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
070.sgm: office, working late and early.  Last night I worked until twelve o'clock and this morning until nearly noon, for which I shall charge half an ounce.  I am promised, by my present employers, a permanent situation after next week in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday Atkins moved in from the Calaveras where he had been encamped, with our trappings, preparatory to starting for Sonora, whither we are soon going, he to ride express, and I to set type on the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Through Adams' Express this week I received several letters, all of which I have answered.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Part Four</P>
070.sgm:<P>THE FOURTH LETTER BAG</P>
070.sgm:<P>THE CALIFORNIA JOURNAL-2</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Fourth Letter Bag</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Friend:--This is Sunday.  The boys are sitting around the windows of the office, keeping up a continual rattling, while the wind is raging without.  The Lord only knows when I will bid farewell to the black walls of the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I had almost forgotten to say that on Thursday last I received a package of letters from you, mailed at Valparaiso, the contents of which sent joy to my heart.  These letters were the first positive intelligence we have had from you since you left the Breakwater.  They dispelled our doubt and conveyed to us and all your friends the happy news that you were then living and well.  The general letter is in <HI REND="italics">type</HI>
070.sgm: for the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm: the coming week.  Mr. Evans bid me ask you to write at every opportunity.  He was so much pleased that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>And now to that portion of the private letter to myself.  I mean that part where you ask of me as an old and true friend to state whether Miss Apple remains devoted to you.  It affords me great pleasure to be able to say that every indication and action of hers up to this time express the purest devotion to you and your welfare.  That she has been true and will remain true to the end, I have not the least doubt.  In fact, I am sometimes afraid that her intense anxiety for your safety and speedy return will prey upon her health, as it has already upon her spirits.  I often call to see her, and encourage her, telling her to hope for the best and urging her to look at the bright side of the picture.  I offer her every favor in my power, and sometimes accompany her to lectures and concerts to enliven her spirits.  The letters from you she reads and rereads.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The intelligence we have from California is very contradictory.  We scarcely know what story to believe.  From some of our California boys we have melancholy news--from others just the reverse.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Evans and all hands ask to be remembered.  I remain,</P>
070.sgm:<P>your devoted friend,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Enos:--To say I am much obliged to you for your affectionate and welcome letter would be useless.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>You spoke of the pleasant moonlight nights and thought perhaps I might be looking upon the moon at the same time.  I have had precisely the same thoughts and feelings so I think there must have been some magnetic influence across the pathless ocean.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I presume by this time you have received my letter directed to San Francisco, California.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Harrison and his daughter and Miss Leslie from Barnum's museum held two concerts here in the Cabinet.  And a new set of musicians called the Bell Ringers gave two entertainments.  The Balls for the season have ended.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There has been a great revival in the Baptist Church.  Numbers of persons have joined and I hope they will be sincere and make no false pretensions.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Hall, the watchmaker and jeweler, was robbed about the first of January.  The moon shone brightly.  Not a cloud was to be seen.  Mr. Hall was sleeping soundly in the second story of his house.  It seems as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We received a letter from Theodore dated the 23d of October.  He was then at Weaver's Creek digging gold.  But he said they had not been very successful.  They had laboured ten days for twenty dollars.  Mr. Dixon was very much discouraged, and anxious to return home.  Many are still going to California in every vessel.  But many persons have told me that only one out of every ten that goes to dig gold makes anything.  So if you should not be among the fortunate, be not discouraged but return to those who devoutly love you in good old West Chester and let well enough alone.  I think a person would require an iron constitution to stand the climate and privations that you must encounter out there.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Last night I had a delightful dream.  I dreamt that you had returned home.  You had better believe there was a sad heart made happy.  I hope my dream will soon be realized.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I do not know when I shall ever be able to repay Mr. Prizer for his kindness.  He has taken me to several places of amusement and has taken me to church frequently.  For all this I am indebted to you.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yours truly and sincerely,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Ellen:--Your letter of the 5th of March reached me at Mariposa Diggings on the 9th instant.  It was the first and only one I have received from your pen since I left San Francisco.  I had hoped to hear from you by each express which went down to the steamer.  Oh, how I could have blessed the paper your hand had travelled over.  I never retire to my humble bed without thinking of my Ellen and hoping that she is happy.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your letter told me of many interesting things, none of which I drank with more pleasure than the assurance of your continued love and constancy.  I have written you by every monthly steamer since my arrival in this country.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I fear that you are allowing your anxiety for my safety and happiness to prey upon your spirits more than they should.  But if I am right in my surmises, it will not be the first case that I have known persons at home to make themselves far more miserable and suffer much more in their solicitude for an absent friend, than he did himself.  To be sure, I have had some dark hours here and have not had enough money in my pocket at one meal to buy food for the next, yet I never suffered on that account.</P>
070.sgm:<P>A short time since, I was very ill for about a week but soon recovered and am now in excellent health and spirits.  Atkins has been ill, but is getting better and I hope will soon be well.  He thinks we are in a deplorable situation, but I think not.  Our difficulties are not serious.  All will come right in the end.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We were at Mariposa about seven weeks and during a part of that time I worked hard in mud and water two feet deep.  I sent you a specimen of "dust" of our digging and washing, about one-third of all I dug on one day.  I sent a part to Mother and another to Prizer.  We left that place with the intention of going to the Tuolumne Diggings, coming near Stockton on the way.  I wished you could have seen us on our trip from Mariposa to this place.  I know you would have hurt your sides with laughter.  The distance is about 130 miles, and the greater part of the distance I was leading a cow and calf, travelling over barren plains.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Camp life agrees with me first-rate.  I can cook some splendid dishes but it is a part I don't relish much.  I know you would laugh at some of our stews, and say our plates were dirty, but so the world wags.  I have just built up a fire, and cooked and eaten a hearty supper.  To be sure it was not as handsomely done as I have eaten in West Chester, but then the appetite is different.  I can eat now with a relish food that would have sickened me then.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Remember me to your sister, your parents if proper, and to Cad.  Write me often to San Francisco, and believe me</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your sincere</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Ellen:--A year has passed since I held thy hand and bid thee a sad adieu.  What a short time!  Yet how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>As you will see by the date of this letter, I have journeyed to Sonora.  I left all my letters in my trunk when I came here on horseback from Stockton, in care of a gentleman who promised to forward it to me next morning.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have received nothing from you since your letter of March 5th.  Your letters are of the utmost importance and were I to be as unfortunate as Theodore in not receiving any for a whole year, I don't know what I should do.  You say you cherish a letter from me.  Then how much more must I cherish a letter from you?  You are surrounded by old associations.  I am in a strange land among strangers, battling hard to climb the mountain now before me.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I can well appreciate your caution when you say that should I be among the unlucky ones, I must not be discouraged but return to those who love me devoutly and let well enough alone.  I will return--but when?  Some time since, rather a dark cloud obscured my vision, but it has cleared away and a bright sunshine now plays upon me.  I am doing much better, having found employment at my trade at a good salary.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Poor Clint truly has had a tough time of it.  He has been sick ever since his arrival in the country until within a few weeks.  He has not as yet worked more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Last night I lay down to sleep and dreamed that you were here but when I first beheld you, you were just being <HI REND="italics">married to another</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Write me often.</P>
070.sgm:<P>God bless you.</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. C.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Fellow:--I was very sorry to learn that you had not received two packages of letters which I forwarded to you.  Each one contained a letter from Miss Apple.  But I will not go over old ground.  I received a package of letters from you, brought by a recent steamer from Chagres, containing letters for me and for Miss Apple.  I could have shouted for joy for thus hearing so directly and officially from you.  I had been looking with great anxiety of your arrival at San Francisco in every arrival from California, and had almost begun to despair.  You are much better off than I thought you would be.  I think if you are blessed with health you will make a fortune in California.  I hope you may find plenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:of the big " <HI REND="italics">lumps</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I immediately delivered Miss Apple's letter.  It was a welcome epistle to her.  She often has fits of despondency, but is as devoted as ever, as the tone of her letters to you will attest.  You ask if the " <HI REND="italics">Apple remains sound</HI>
070.sgm:."  It affords me great pleasure to assure you that the Apple remains <HI REND="italics">sound</HI>
070.sgm: to the <HI REND="italics">core</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Poor Whitaker's adventure to California has been a fatal one!  His parents are almost irreconcilable, while many of his true and devoted friends lament his early loss.  The melancholy intelligence of his death gave us cause to feel alarmed in regard to other adventurers in California.  I hope and pray that Whitaker's fate may not be yours.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your letters placed a decided veto on my going to California.  Had you offered the least encouragement, in all probability I would have taken the Isthmus route instanter for the Gold Regions.  But I place all confidence in your advice and believe you counsel me properly when you advise me to stay at home.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We have some rough-and-tumble times in the office.  About two weeks ago Hunter was in the act of letting down a form in the trough when he slipped and let it fall into pi.  Oh, what a mixture it presented! Nonpareil, Brevier, Minion all thrown together in one mass of rubbage.  This was Monday night, and a more depressed set of boys never retired to rest.  I dreamed of pi all night.  However, we went to work next day and in three days we had it all cleared up and distributed.  On Monday night last the machinery which regulates the impression was put out of order, and tore off the blanket in an awful manner.  It was one o'clock before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The editor did not obtain his appointment to a foreign mission.  He may be considered politically dead in this particular.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You are no doubt very anxious to know what I am doing with the ladies.  In the first place, I do not find as much pleasure in their company as I did a year ago.  I spend most of my time in the office, reading, which I find eventually to be the most profitable way to spend it.  I go sometimes with Sallie Cope, and old friend, whom I hug occasionally when I feel like it, but she is rather old and tough.  The charm is lost in this case.  Miss Cope has a couple of cousins in the country, one of whom has almost taken my heart.  I am going out to see them next Sunday, but I will not be responsible as to how far I may be carried away.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mrs. Hunter's son is somewhere in California.  She has written to you to that effect.  I hope you may see him in your travels.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The State of California is knocking at the doors of Congress for admission into the Union, and has occupied the attention of both houses of Congress for four months past and ere this reaches you, it will form the 32d star in our firmament of States.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Tell Clint to hold out to the end.  I am glad to hear of his good spirits.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your old friend,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<P>P.S.  The editor's youngster is a boy, and he is proud of him.  That reminds me that I ought to be doing something for my country.  I was twenty-four years old on Monday.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE CALIFORNIA JOURNAL - 2</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, August 11, 1850</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On Wednesday afternoon, July 3, after having worked off the first edition of the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm: in the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
070.sgm:<P>At this time great excitement existed along the road on account of the many horrid murders that had been committed within a short time.  I had passed the bodies of three Americans who had been killed by the Mexicans when, in the distance, I saw coming towards me a figure on horse.  Being startled, I spurred my horse and he did likewise.  We sped past each other, each being determined to escape death by the hand of a Mexican.  But as we hurried past, each saw that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The day after my arrival I distributed copies of the first number of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I have known of printing offices in log cabins with the latchstring always hanging out, but here, I am seated at a table covered with papers in the middle of a "rag house," ten by fourteen feet, surrounded by all the paraphernalia of a printing establishment.  When I speak of printing materials, I do not mean that we have such an assortment of things as we had in the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm: office.  On the contrary, we have but two or three cases of old type, a wooden "stick" manufactured by my own hands with a jackknife, and an old Ramage press that has long been a pioneer in the business, the first numbers of nearly all the papers now printed in California having been printed upon it after it had been brought second-hand from the States through Mexico: 1st, the paper at Monterey; 2d, <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
070.sgm:, San Francisco; 3d, <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
070.sgm:, Sacramento City; 4th, <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
070.sgm:, Stockton; and lastly, the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:.  It well deserves the title of the "Pioneer Press."  It has spoken to millions and no one can calculate the amount of good it has already done, nor estimate what amount it is yet capable of doing.  It has already crossed the continent in its mission of good from the Atlantic shores to those of the Pacific, and is now on its way back.  I doubt not but it will next be heard from on the summit of the Sierra Nevada range, and hope it will continue in its course until it is met on the broad plains by something from the East.  Then as a reward for past <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Sonora is the county seat of Tuolumne County, about two hundred and twenty-five miles southeast of San Francisco.  The country round about is very hilly and mountainous, being forty miles from the main range of the Sierra Nevada.  Many of the mountains are covered with a rather inferior pine and scrubby oak, while others are perfectly bare or thickly covered with chaparral.  This latter constitutes the haunts of the grizzly bear, quite plentiful in this neighborhood.  Several unlucky hunters have been killed by them and others badly wounded.  Only last Sunday a man was found about four miles from this place, literally torn to pieces, quite dead, with his trusty rifle lying by his side.  It is supposed the bear came upon him suddenly without giving him time to fire.  They are very ferocious and often do much harm after they are severely wounded.  Their meat is excellent.</P>
070.sgm:<P>About two years ago this place, one of the richest mineral districts in this region, constituted the chief headquarters of the Mexicans, principally from the State of Sonora, Mexico, and was then known as <HI REND="italics">Campo de Sonora</HI>
070.sgm:.  The whole neighborhood abounded in rich diggings and for a few months they were left to pursue their labors in undisturbed peace.  Bullfights, fandangos, and other Spanish amusements took place almost every evening and the people lived quite happily, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Now miners generally are doing but poorly in this region, as they are almost everywhere else.  Individual mining is for the most part over, I believe.  Hereafter it must be carried on by large companies with extensive machinery.  The small streams and many of the flats, gulches and ravines have been dug over two or three times and in the rainy season scores of miners are to be seen walking about and every now and then stooping down to pick something up.  It is gold they are after, and sometimes they are quite successful.  The rain softens and washes off the top dirt and leaves the gold exposed on the surface.  This would be quite an interesting occupation if it would only pay a little better.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Many companies have worked for months in digging canals, building dams and turning large rivers, in the hope of reaping a rich harvest from the river bottoms.  But they have been disappointed and hundreds have left for the dry diggings.  What the thousands who are here and on their way are going to do this winter, I cannot anticipate.  An unparalleled amount of suffering will doubtless be witnessed.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This section of the country has been infested by numerous bands of Mexican guerillas, and life and property have been very insecure.  Within a fortnight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Among the persons murdered was one named Miller, of Reading, Pennsylvania.  He and his partner kept a public house on the road between this and Stockton.  One evening about bedtime, seven Mexicans came in and professed to be friends.  After taking a drink and buying a sword, one of them made a pass with it at the man behind the counter.  This was thought to be a joke and so passed off.  Soon after, however, another pass was made and this time the man was stabbed through the right breast.  A scuffle then ensued between the two Americans and seven Mexicans in which one of the former was killed and the other badly wounded.  During the affray an American teamster who was sleeping in a back part of the tent awoke and seizing a six-shooter, rushed out and shot one of the Mexicans through the head, killing him instantly.  He then had to flee for his own safety.  The Mexicans plundered the tent and left the two men for dead.  I saw the wounded man a few days after the occurrence.  He was then very low but hopes were entertained for his recovery.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Things came to a fearful pass and daily grew worse.  No one dared to travel without being armed to the teeth.  At night every one lay down with his pistol under his head and rifle by his side.  The miners along the lone hillside took turns and kept watch during the silent hours of the night.  A violent feeling of hostility existed between the Americans and Mexicans.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>On Wednesday morning, the tenth of July, three Indians and a Mexican were discovered burning the tent and bodies of two Americans about five miles from this place.  They were immediately arrested and brought here under a strong escort of armed Americans, highly excited and enraged.  They were taken before the magistrate but before the hearing was gone through with, the excited people seized the prisoners, took them to the top of an adjacent hill, selected a jury under a tree, tried and found them guilty, and sentenced them to be hung.  The sentence was about to be carried into effect, for the ropes were already around their necks and over a limb, and all that was wanting to finish their existence was the word "pull" to be given.  The Mexican was even raised off the ground and was dangling in the air.  Before the rope was stretched, he fell upon his knees, kissed a cross he carried in his bosom, uttered a prayer in Spanish, and resigned himself to his fate.</P>
070.sgm:<P>At this critical moment for the prisoners, the county judge with other citizens interfered and begged the people not to assume so great a responsibility but to let the law take its own course and justice would be done.  The prisoners were then brought back and placed in the jail but by this time the multitude had become so desperate that it was feared the jail would be torn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The coroner held an inquest and ascertained that the two Americans had been killed several days before, as their bodies were partially decomposed.  The prisoners stated that they had discovered the bodies the previous evening, and they agreed to burn them in the morning pursuant to a religious custom in vogue among their own people.</P>
070.sgm:<P>On Monday, the 14th of July, our town was thrown into a state of great excitement by the appearance in the streets of a company of about sixty men, marching to the sound of fife and drum, armed with guns and rifles, and bearing the American flag.  They had come from the scene of the late murder to see the laws carried out.  They were very excited and would scarcely submit to any delay.  They halted opposite the court house, where Judge Tuttle addressed them in a neat speech, urging them to be moderate and assuring them that the criminals would be tried as soon as possible and that justice would be done.  If they were found guilty they would speedily meet their just deserts and if not guilty, they would surely be acquitted.  He urged them to respect the laws and acquiesce in the verdict of the jury, whatever it might be.  At the conclusion of this sound advice, three cheers were proposed but the angry crowd was illy disposed to submit to the law's delays and they sullenly marched to the prison, where it was agreed that the prisoners should be tried the following day.  In the meantime a strong guard was placed over them from the ranks of the company.</P>
070.sgm:<P>A rumor reached town that the prisoners were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>In the afternoon the cases of the four men came up before the District Court.  The house was crowded with armed Americans, and while the indictment was being read to the prisoners, a gun in the hands of one of the people was accidentally discharged.  The crowd supposed that some one had fired at the prisoners and for a moment the utmost confusion prevailed; men were seen issuing from every door and window of the house.  Numberless revolvers were instantly drawn and a number of shots immediately fired in the streets.  Every man issued forth with a rifle or pistol in his hand.</P>
070.sgm:<P>At the report of the first gun I saw several Mexicans running who were fired at, and thinking there might be some hot work in sustaining the law, I seized my pistols and immediately repaired to the court room.  Here a melancholy picture presented itself.  The man whose gun had been accidentally discharged was lying in one corner, badly but not mortally wounded, the whole charge having passed through his left wrist.  In the street, the district attorney, mounted on a high stump, was endeavoring in an harangue to quiet the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The supposition then was that these men were innocent and it is not likely that if they had committed the murder they would have remained in the immediate vicinity so long after.  Had the authorities delayed one minute longer, doubtless four innocent men would have lost their lives at the hands of an excited populace.  The one hundred and ten Mexicans were confined in a corral all night and examined the next day, but without eliciting anything in regard to the late murders, and they were therefore discharged.  They had nearly all arrived in the country only a few days previous.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Accounts of the perpetration of fresh murders reached town and a meeting was called Saturday evening, July 19th, to adopt some course to ferret out these bands of murderers, which resulted in the call for a general mass meeting to be held on Sunday.  It was reported during the meeting that an armed Mexican force of over one hundred men had just passed within sight of the town, meditating an attack.  Fifty men volunteered to arm and act as guard during the night.  On Sunday the meeting was numerously attended by persons from nearly all parts of the mining district.  Great discontent prevailed, violent harangues were made and the following resolutions were adopted, with but one dissenting voice.</P>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
070.sgm:<P>These extraordinary measures have already had the effect to stop nearly all business, and times never were tighter with business men than at present.  I am opposed in principle to these measures as I believe they will have no other effect than to drive all the well-disposed foreigners from the land, while the evil doers will escape and hide in the deep recesses of the mountains.  Perhaps resistance will be made and if so, I predict that no little blood will be spilled.  For the protection of the town, guards are stationed in the outskirts every night to prevent a surprise.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Two hundred Mexicans with their pack animals marched through this place on their return home, poor and dispirited.  They had come here, many of them with their families, for the purpose of becoming good citizens and settling in the country.  They thought, and very justly, too, that they should all have to suffer because a few bad men were among them, and sooner than be the cause of disturbances, they would return to the homes which they had so recently left.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday one American shot another in the street and the occurrence was not noticed as much as a dog fight at home.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I am at work at my trade at fifty dollars per week.  Boarding is from an ounce to twenty-five dollars but by an economical arrangement mine only costs about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, August 25</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--This afternoon papers were brought up by special express from Stockton, announcing the death of General Zachary Taylor, late President of the United States.  The announcement created considerable feeling, and the Locos rave that so thorough a Whig as Fillmore should succeed him in the presidency.</P>
070.sgm:<P>On a Sabbath evening some of our best citizens sit down in front of a drinking house and sing such songs as "Dearest Mae," "O, Susanna," and "Uncle Ned."  Sunday is a great day here.  Business is more active and there is more frolic on this day than in the whole of the other six.  In the morning we have public auctions, in the afternoon the bullfight and the circus, and in the evening the circus and Dr. Collier's troupe of Model Artists, together with numerous fandango rooms, dance houses, and scores of gambling hells.  While I am writing, my friends at home perhaps are at church; here the fife and drum are calling the people to the circus.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have worked very steadily in the office all day.  This evening Atkins and I concluded to indulge in a little wine and sugar, and therefore sent and had a bottle brought.  After turning off a glass each, we have concluded to attend a fandango up town, where we will perhaps remain until midnight, looking at the Americans dancing with the Mexican sen&tilde;oritas.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, September 6</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On Monday afternoon the editor, Mr. White, and his better half, Atkins and myself went out on a gold-seeking expedition, with pick, spade and pan and as an accompaniment (the water being bad) a bottle of good wine, and washed for an hour in one of the neighboring gulches, taking out about two dollars, which we have carefully put away with the view of having it made into ornaments.</P>
070.sgm:<P>On Wednesday a large number of wild Indians, both men and women, passed through our town on their way to the Tuolumne River.  Many of them were almost nude, having nothing but a shirt on or blanket wrapped around them; the men with their bows and arrows, the women with their long conical baskets slung over their backs, kept from falling by a strap passing over the tops of their heads.  The women appeared to do all the drudgery, having their baskets, which hold about a bushel each, well filled with meat which they gather wherever they can, not scrupling to kill any one's horse or ox if they fail in finding elk or deer.</P>
070.sgm:<P>At Slater's ranch, within three miles of Sonora, two warriors of the party attempted to steal several horses kept by a Mexican.  At their approach the Mexican posted himself behind a tree and while in this position, they fired three arrows at him, one of which took effect in the left arm, near the shoulder, passing clear through it.  He then fired a pistol at them which had the effect to drive them off.  The Mexican was brought into town where the arrow was extracted and the wound dressed by a skilful surgeon.  The Indians also attempted to steal a cow and a calf from a butcher a mile or two from this place but were foiled in their attempt and driven away.  A party of armed Americans started out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>On the same day two Frenchmen found the remains of an American a few miles from town, evidently murdered, with the head lying several rods from the body, the pockets and belt cut open as with a knife, and the body much mutilated and torn by the coyotes.</P>
070.sgm:<P>About ten o'clock that night, after I had turned in, I heard a rapping at my door and upon opening, who should enter but the sheriff and levy on one half of the office.  This startled me, but I rested well until morning when I found that it was seized upon for a debt owing by one of the partners.  The proceedings were stopped and the paper was permitted to go on, by the partner's selling his interest in the concern to his creditor.  I have now $467 due me from them and they have promised me money every day for a week, but as yet I have received nary a red cent.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, September 8</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--This forenoon Mr. White, late editor of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:, with his lady <HI REND="italics">vamosed</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I arrived early and took my seat, very few having then assembled.  In a few minutes two clergymen, one a young man and the other quite grey, made their appearance.  In a quarter of an hour, while the first hymn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>In the evening a Locofoco meeting was held at which the speakers criminated and blackguarded each other until it almost broke up in a row.  I tried my luck tonight; for the first time since leaving San Francisco, at roulette and won $5.25.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, September 26</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--During the past two weeks the weather has been quite cool and threatened rain, and yesterday we had two good showers, the first since the beginning of April, which settled the dust completely.  The rain was accompanied by heavy peals of thunder, and lightning, which I had not witnessed since my arrival in this country.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Another man has come into town to have his wounds dressed, having been attacked by three Indians while lying asleep under a tree during the night.  This morning our sheriff went out and undertook to arrest two Indians.  He was fired upon by several of them, but he fired at them, upon which they put off.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The great fever of excitement in relation to foreigners and the numerous murders that were being daily committed by them a month ago, has now abated.  The guerilla bands have ceased their operations and we do not now hear of a horrid murder being perpetrated every day.  I believe there have been only two men shot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:in our streets since that time.  Three-fourths of the Mexicans who were here a month ago have left the neighborhood for their old homes in Sonora, Mexico, with rather a bad opinion of <HI REND="italics">Los Yankees</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, October 22</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On the 7th of October our election for state and county officers took place.  Everything passed off quietly, but the clerks of the election got so drunk they could not count off the votes and new ones had to be sworn in.  The result of the election will not be known for several weeks as the land of telegraphs and railroads is far distant.  Here we go by horse express.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Recently our town was thrown into excitement by the discovery of two murdered men, named Burke and Dolf, about one mile from this place.  A jury went out and held an inquest and the bodies were brought in in a wagon and placed in the hospital where they were bathed and dressed, and buried the next morning.  Their bodies were most horribly cut and mutilated, one with his head nearly cut off, from behind, a heavy gash in the face, and several deadly stabs in the breast.  The other had a single cut across the head and face, which severed it in two pieces.  They were horrible pictures to look upon.  During the day they had been to an auction and purchased some clothing, and in the evening left for Sullivan's with a small piece of beef for their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>About ten days since, the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My feet being very sore from poison, I laid by a few days, and one morning while going to my boarding house, cane in hand, whom should I meet but John L. Haines, Esq., of West Chester, Pa., and Mr. Enoch Davis of Charlestown Township.  They had just come down from the northern mines.  As they are old acquaintances, we held a long confab about friends and home, and our own successes and failures.  From them we learned of the death of Jas. Dixon, Esq., near Georgetown in the northern mines, about the first of September.  He is the fourth already dead of those who left West Chester for these auriferous regions and this, of itself, tells a fearful tale.  Mr. Theodore Apple left for home a few days after.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Atkins and I commenced mining in company with Haines and Davis.  We have been digging for the last four or five days just below town but the water has been so plentiful as to prevent us from going down to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:proper depth to get gold.  Tomorrow we hope to get <HI REND="italics">mucho oro</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, November 20</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--I tried my hand at mining for a few weeks, but upon dividing the gold we dug during my last week, we found that we had only about 1 1/4 pounds.  I hired a man to dig in my place for five dollars a day and again commenced sticking type on the 5th of November, for Marvin and Gunn.  Judge Marvin was a partner of Mr. White, former editor of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:, who has left this place.  A few weeks later, I purchased one-half of the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I have now been in this country almost a year and as yet have accumulated but little cash, but we have gotten our paper fairly started and it is increasing in value every day.  We are not enabled to print a handsome sheet as we are in the mountains, several thousand miles from a type foundry.  But we do the best we can.  I think if I remain here about another year, I will be able to sell out and return home to the dearest spot on earth.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, December 23</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We are now in the midst of winter, or the rainy season.  It has been raining steadily for the last eight or ten days.  Our mountain streams are all impassable, and communications between here and Stockton and San Francisco are entirely cut off, except by persons travelling on horseback.  The mud is ankle deep, and still rain continues to pour down.</P>
070.sgm:<P>An auriferous quartz vein has been discovered in the northern part of the town, and many people are getting half crazy at the prospect of a rich reward.  But I fear they will be woefully disappointed.  Practical men, men who have been used to this kind of mining, say that it will not prove sufficiently rich to warrant any one in erecting machinery and employing labor while the rates of everything continue as at present.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I see by the papers from the Atlantic States that the Disunionists in the South count on California joining them in a Southern confederacy.  Now, since California is admitted, let them try her.  One universal shout would go forth from California for the Union and if needs be, will fight for it.  We laugh in our sleeve at the antics of these madmen.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, March 5, 1851</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--The mail arrived today.  A large crowd of anxious expectants was in attendance.  When the letters were ready for distribution, a huge fellow stepped up.  A beard that almost covered his face and a large, heavy revolver sticking in his belt gave him the appearance of a ruffian without a tender spot in his composition.  Upon giving his name, a handsomely enveloped letter was handed him.  After weighing out his two dollars for it, he stepped aside, broke open the seal and commenced reading it.  In a few minutes I looked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:around again and saw this same burly, stern-looking man, who looked as hard as adamant, <HI REND="italics">in tears</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I observed another person in this same crowd, a pale, youthful man.  He asked for a letter and was told that none had come for him.  It was painful then to witness that young man raise his voice in blasphemy and swear his friends had forgotten him and cared nothing about him.  He called up his companions to the bar and they all enjoyed a drunken revel.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This morning the ground was covered with snow to the depth of three inches.  But snow doesn't remain in this part of California; it goes quicker than it comes.  Though the tops of the highest mountains are often covered with snow several feet deep, in the valleys it scarcely ever covers the ground.  Yesterday was warm and pleasant, with a bright sun all day, like April.</P>
070.sgm:<P>A few weeks ago Dr. Gunn's wife, an accomplished lady, and four children, ranging from four to ten years, two boys (Douglas and Chester) and two sweet little girls, arrived from Philadelphia.  They came around Cape Horn in a clipper ship.  Everything now goes on quite comfortably.  A woman about a house produces a new order of things.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, May 25</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--One who has not been in California can hardly credit the changes that take place here in a very short period of time.  But one short year ago I was crossing the barren plains on foot.  The wandering gold hunter in traversing our mountains and desert then had to carry everything he required with him, his blanket, his provisions, his frying-pan and his tea-kettle.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>This is not the only change which has taken place.  We have plenty of the good things of this world.  Provisions of all kinds can be bought now for less than half what they could then.  At that time prices ranged about as follows:--Flour, per 100 lbs., $50 to $75; Pilot Bread, $75 to $100 per 100 lbs.; Potatoes, 75 cents and $1.00 per lb.; Fresh Beef, 50 cents; Salt Pork, $1.00, etc.  Now they can be had as follows:--Flour, $10 to $14; Pilot Bread we have none for we can all get Baker's Bread; Potatoes, $12 to $15 per bu.; Fresh Beef, 25 cents per lb.; Salt Pork, 18 to 25 cents per lb.; etc.  Last summer I paid $16 per week for two meals per day; now I could get much better board with three meals per day for $8 and $10.  We still do our own cooking and washing but have not yet introduced the starch cup or smoothing iron, and we don't expect to until we return to civilized life again.</P>
070.sgm:<P>As a general thing miners are doing tolerably well.  By working hard and living economically, they can save four to five and six dollars per day.  The general average, however, will hardly range as high as this.  Many of these hard-working American miners are, I regret to say, victims of the gambling hells.  But we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I must tell what you will see by entering one of these gambling saloons.  We will walk into the Empire Saloon.  Behind a long counter on your right four men are kept busy in handing out bottles of liquor and weighing out the gold dust therefor at two bits per drink. A little farther on you will observe a fair-skinned Spanish sen&tilde;orita behind a counter filled with sweetmeats, upon which is a large urn filled with hot coffee.  The handsome and graceful sen&tilde;oritas are greatly admired by the gold seekers.  We will each take a cup of coffee, pay our four bits, and proceed to the farther end of the room, where upon a gallery erected for the purpose, we find a full band discoursing sweet music.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The walls of the room are hung with numerous lascivious paintings, and down through the middle of the room stand some eight or ten Monte, Roulette, and Faro tables, loaded with piles of silver and large bags of gold dust, and surrounded with crowds of persons of all ages, sex and color, from the pale-faced Frenchman to the ebon Ethiopian.  Later in the night when the players become excited, you can see thousands of dollars change owners upon the turn of a single card.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, June 28</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--A short time ago, Jim Hill, a man with a scar on his neck, went into a store at Camp Seco <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>This morning a party of about a dozen of our most respectable citizens went to the jail and took Hill away to stand his trial at Camp Seco.  His identity was proved and a fair and impartial trial was given before a jury of twelve men who rendered a verdict of guilty unanimously.  It was then voted to hang the prisoner and a committee of five was appointed to confer with him to endeavor to obtain disclosures in reference to others and their whereabouts.  In this they were successful.  He confessed his guilt and told of others connected with him in horse stealing and other crimes.  He is willing to die for what he has done and wishes those who led him into crime to be hung along with him.  Parties were dispatched to Sonora, Melones and other places to catch different ones that were named, all of whom had been suspected.  The doomed man is about 23 years old.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June 29</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--In almost every camp and city in the country, the most respectable portion of the community have formed what are called "Vigilance Committees" which appoint officers, organize courts, catch rascals, try them and, when found guilty, punish them by whipping, banishing or hanging.  Frightful disorders <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>A large Vigilance Committee is being organized here and we shall soon have a full police of our best citizens standing guard all the while.  Early this morning a meeting of the citizens of Sonora was held preparatory to forming this Committee.  Major Ross was called to the Chair and myself appointed Secretary.  The following resolutions were adopted:<LB><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
070.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>About 11 o'clock this morning the person arrested in Sonora last evening on Jim Hill's evidence, was taken over to Camp Seco, accompanied by Sheriff Work and others.  A form of examination was gone through and no positive evidence other than that of the doomed man appearing against him, he was honorably acquitted.</P>
070.sgm:<P>After 6 P.M. Hill was led forth to execution.  Since early morning, people from the various camps had been on their way to Camp Seco and an immense number of accomplices and other villains had collected.  After the prisoner was placed on the stand, he made a few remarks describing his life as one of crime, and warning others against following his course.  He also said that he had robbed and stolen and done other acts of crime, but had never shed blood, and he threw himself upon the mercy of the people.  This appeal to the people caused the question to be put amongst them, "Shall he be hung?"  A large number answered aye, but an equal number responded in the negative.  Immediately some hundreds of pistols were drawn and a universal stampede occurred.  Horsemen plunged through the crowd and over them, and the people ran in every direction.</P>
070.sgm:<P>George Work, the sheriff, arrived at this point and asked to be heard in his capacity as conservator of the peace.  He pledged his own life that the prisoner should be forthcoming at the District Court, if the people would deliver him into the hands of the civil authorities.  In the excitement and confusion that followed, the prisoner was taken from the stand, his hands all the while pinioned behind him, and he was thrust into a wagon which was immediately driven off at a rapid rate for Sonora.</P>
070.sgm:<P>News of the result having reached here shortly after the rescue, Mr. Edwards and Mr. Linoberg with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>They came in a wagon, with two persons alongside on horseback, with pistols drawn.  But all was of no avail.  The men in that crowd were not to be frightened.  They followed the wagon driving at a rapid rate until it struck against a post, it being dark.  George Work then jumped out with the prisoner, holding him by the collar, and both ran at full speed for the jail, plunging through the arroyo, while the crowd behind was shouting, "Stop him in front.  We are afraid to shoot, lest we may kill our friends.  Stop him in front!"  Mr. Linoberg soon caught the prisoner behind and hung on to him, compelling him to drag him along and thus impeding his progress.  Col. Cheatam also ran ahead at full speed to the jail and planting himself before the door, cocked his revolver, and as George Work and the prisoner came running up, he placed one hand on the prisoner and presenting his pistol towards George, said, "George, you have a pistol and I have a pistol.  Yours is cocked and so is mine. Blow away.  I can kill too--but let this man go!"  Others by this time came up and one party taking George, another the prisoner, no shots were exchanged and the prisoner was snatched from the hands of the law.  Sheriff Work was not inimical to the hanging of the robber Hill, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>However, two persons threw a rope over the prisoner's neck, and away he was led to the execution.  The place selected was a limb of a noble old oak behind the El Dorado in the middle of the city.  A minister was requested and 15 minutes allowed, the prisoner being surrounded by a ring of firm men who were cool and determined in the work before them.  The fifteen minutes having expired, the signal was given and in an instant the wretched man was hanging by his neck.  There was scarce a struggle.  The crowd was deeply impressed, but all were satisfied of the righteousness and necessity of the punishment.  After the body had been cut down and placed in the rough box, it was discovered that the receptacle was too small for the corpse and it was necessary, in order to nail down the lid, that half a dozen of those present stand on top of the lid and work it back and forth a number of times before it could be fastened down.  I was one of those selected and I can truthfully say it was a gruesome task.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, July 5, 1851</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--About ten days ago it was announced in all the San Francisco papers that Mr. Gunn, editor of the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:, and myself and several other persons had been killed in a fracas with gamblers.  This report, which was a falsehood from beginning to end, was published just before the sailing of the last steamer.  It is probable that it will be seen in the papers at home and occasion much distress.  I therefore concluded to write by the first mail, denying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<illus entity="a070-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"KILLED IN A FRACAS WITH GAMBLERS" Clipping from the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
070.sgm: quoted in the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I can best record the matter here by copying the following article from the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TERRIBLE AFFRAY IN SONORA Reynolds &amp; Co.'s Express Office, Sonora, Friday Night, June 27--12 o'clock.</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>Eds. Alta:--An extraordinary excitement is now raging in our town.  Three persons have been killed and four wounded.  The difficulty originated between some gamblers about an article published in the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:.  The gamblers went to the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>In haste,</P>
070.sgm:<P>D.F. Sayres, Reynolds' Express.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I can only say in reference to this that we are yet each worth a dozen dead men.  One gambler has threatened the editor with a cowhiding, but if he attempts it, a good six-shooter will probably settle him.  Our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:contradiction of the murder appears as follows in this morning's <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Our Death, burial and resurrection!</P>
070.sgm:<P>Gentle readers:--Since we last had the pleasure of inditing editorials, we have passed through thrilling scenes.  Murdered by enemies, mourned and respectfully buried by friends, and favored since by an earlier resurrection than is allotted to mankind in general, we appear before you not with "a doleful sound" from the tombs, nor with the half-hesitating tone of one who is still compounded of flesh and blood, and who of course possesses the fears and infirmities that flesh is heir to.  We are risen from the dead.--It is not permitted, however, now to communicate all that we saw while absent from this little sphere.  We can only say that we had glimpses of large companies of angels dancing and rejoicing over the intelligence from earth that horse thieves had been hung--that robbers, counterfeiters and murderers had been brought before a just tribunal and were then dangling in the air to be devoured by birds that feed on carrion.  Being endowed by our transition into the spiritual state with vision different from that which mortals possess, we can now see men at a distance of many miles and know just what they are doing, and even read the thoughts that are running through their minds.  This is the only result of the foul murder perpetrated upon our persons last Friday night and you, gentle reader, can judge whether or not now we should regret what has happened to us.--Friends at least will have this consolation:  Once killed, we cannot go through the same process again; and if we feel disposed now to unfold the cribs of iniquity and the authors of crime, we have the two-fold advantage of extra knowledge and of being neither vulnerable nor mortal.  For those who may not understand the above allusions, we copy the letter from the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
070.sgm:, and shall take the liberty of referring the public to that and other San Francisco papers whenever hereafter they wish to obtain thrilling intelligence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, August</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On Sunday, July 13, the Sonora Vigilance Committee hung another horse thief.  The following Sunday three Mexicans were tied to the whipping post, and each received twenty-five lashes well laid on.  Another Mexican was found with a stolen horse in his possession, and sentenced to receive 150 lashes, to have one-half of his head shaved, and to leave the country in 48 hours under penalty of being hanged if he ever returned.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have sold out my interest in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Sonora is a fast place and no mistake.  Such a motley collection as we have here can be found nowhere but in California.  Sonora has a population hailing from every hole and corner of the globe--Kanakas, Peruvians, Negroes, Spaniards, Mexicans, Chilians, Chinese, British convicts from New South Wales, known as "Sidney Birds," Englishmen, Frenchmen, Dutch, Paddies, and not a small sprinkling of Yankees.  We have more gamblers, more drunkards, more ugly, bad women, and larger lumps of gold, and more of them, than any other place of similar dimensions within Uncle Sam's dominions.  The Sabbath is regarded as a holiday, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I feel that I am a rover, a wanderer on the face of the earth!  In a land flowing, not with milk and honey, but with flapjacks and gold dust, far from home and kindred, and surrounded by the offscourings and scum of society, from all parts of the inhabitable globe.  All selfish, each for himself, and his Satanic Majesty for all.  I have scarcely met with half a dozen respectable women, or men with their families, since I left the Atlantic States.  The women of other nations, what few there are, are nearly all lewd harlots, who are drunk half the time, or sitting behind the gambling table dealing monte.  To see a woman who can read and write is a curiosity.  Indeed, the majority of our females are a disgrace to woman.  All, all ruined!</P>
070.sgm:<P>This state of things, I hope, will not last much longer, for every steamer which arrives in San Francisco brings many families of wives and children, and as soon as we get a few of them among us, a new order of things will commence.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The weather now is extremely warm.  We are in the dry season and will have no rain for many months.  The day has been awful hot, the mercury standing at 115 in the shade, and I must go and have a bath, paying $1.50 for it.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, September 11</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On Sunday last I attended a grand bullfight.  The place in which the exhibition took place was a large circular pen, surrounded by a high fence, on one side of which was a large door opening to a small pen where the bulls were kept confined.  About ten feet distant from this fence was a high wall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>At three o'clock the performance commenced by admitting two Mexican horsemen gaudily attired and armed with long spears; then came three or four footmen, with red flags.  They made their politest bows and after the band had played a lively air, the door opened and in bounded a large, wild bull.  At first he made at the footmen but by quick man&oelig;uvres they avoided his plunges.  He then ran at the horsemen and for a time they kept him from doing any harm by piercing him with their long spears but they were not quick enough, for he soon knocked one of the horses down and his rider senseless.  Immediately after the man fell he was removed by some of his companions, the bull's attention being attracted to one of the footmen with a red flag.  The other rider was soon unhorsed and at one time the bull bid fair to become master of the ring.</P>
070.sgm:<P>At this stage of the performance, a dusky Mexican sen&tilde;orita, magnificently dressed, entered the arena, sword in hand.  For a time she parried with the bull, pricking him slightly and stepping quickly to one side whenever he ran toward her.  He soon became furious, roaring and tossing his horns high into the air and making the most formidable plunges at the lady until, at a favorable opportunity, she plunged the sword to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Another large, wild bull was then let in, lassoed, thrown down, and fastened by a long rope, around one of his forelegs, to a ring in the middle of the pen.  A huge grizzly bear was then brought in, in his cage, and after some considerable delay and trouble, was taken out and fastened in a similar manner with the bull.  The bull was then let up and the men cleared the ring.  Bruin lay quietly on his haunches and forelegs.  After rising and looking around him the bull made a plunge at the bear, hitting him with one horn pretty forcibly in the breast.  The bear then caught the bull by the nose with his mouth and by the neck with his paws, and thus they fought more than an hour, the bear biting off one of the bull's ears and tearing his nose, while he himself received sundry severe gorings.  The animals were both considerably worried and seemed alike willing to give up the fight and it would be difficult to tell which would eventually have come out master of the field.  Thus ended the afternoon's amusement.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, September 26</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--The dry season is nearly over.  In a few weeks we may expect to be deluged in mud and water.  But now the mountains, the valleys, and the plains all look as parched and dusty as if a drop of rain had never fallen upon them.  In spring the mountains are covered with luxuriant verdure and the plains <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The agricultural resources of California have been rated too high by some and too low by others.  One who has seen it in springtime only, represents the whole country as a luxuriant garden; another who has seen it only in the summer or just before the rain set in, represents it as a barren, desolate waste.  These pictures, however, are drawn by superficial observers.  Where land is properly irrigated it will produce almost any kind of grain or vegetable that is found in the Atlantic States, and in as large quantities.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Cattle will graze in the mountains or on the river bottoms the whole year round.  When the dry season comes on, the grass is not spoiled by dews or moisture of any kind, and dries up like sweet, well-made hay.  On this, cattle will feed equally as well as on green grass.</P>
070.sgm:<P>A few days since, a deer, chased by a pack of dogs, becoming bewildered, ran through the principal street of the city and entered a drinking saloon kept by a Frenchman.  The doors and windows of the establishment were immediately well-guarded and Mr. Deer was soon captured.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Miners are not now doing so well as formerly.  While some have made fortunes, the great mass have not averaged more than three or four dollars per day.  The <HI REND="italics">placer</HI>
070.sgm: diggings of this country have been yielding a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Foreigners have not been allowed to possess any interest whatever in any quartz vein, although they have not been prevented from making contracts for working the veins, for an interest in the proceeds or on wages.  Every claim of one hundred feet or more must be marked out and the names of the claimants posted on it.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Indeed, this branch of mining is just in its infancy, but it has been demonstrated that nearly all the quartz veins in the country will pay handsomely when proper machinery is erected for crushing the quartz rock and extracting the gold therefrom.  In less than a year from now we may reasonably expect to see machinery erected on nearly every hilltop for the purpose of grinding the quartz rock.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, October 7</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--I see, by late intelligence from home, that the Atlantic papers, with few exceptions, have taken grounds against the Vigilance Committees in California and denounce them as "mobs" and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>But criminals and adventurers from every part of the globe have flocked to California in great numbers for the past three years.  If a criminal was brought up before Court, charged with some heinous offence, a confederate was always ready to step up and prove an <HI REND="italics">alibi</HI>
070.sgm:<P>In this city, these wretches were all tried before a jury of Sonora citizens and that jury's verdict fixed their punishment.  The vexations, delays and technicalities of the law through which so many criminals escape punishment were laid aside, and justice quickly and promptly vindicated.  Recently, only two persons have been arrested by the Vigilance Committee.  One a Sydney convict, who was tried for stealing a horse, was convicted and sentenced to receive fifty lashes on the bare back, have his head shaved, and never be found in the country again after twenty-four hours under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, January 25, 1852</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--The weather here is not very cold and we seldom have frost or ice.  Most of the trees are covered with green foliage, and the hills and valleys are carpeted with new grass.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Atkins has left Sonora and gone to some new diggings, known as Cherokee Camp, about fifteen miles from this place.  I accompanied him on his journey and spent the night in the camp.  We were quietly stretched out on our blankets around the fire, swapping yarns with some gentlemen whose tents were close by.  Suddenly we heard footsteps, as of some person stealthily approaching.  As we listened, the sound grew more and more distinct and we became convinced that a number of men were stealing in upon us.  As it was dark and therefore impossible to espy the intruders, each one of us quickly drew his revolver, being always on guard against marauders.  But before we could fire, two colorfully dressed sen&tilde;oritas tripped out of the darkness into the camp.  They had come out for a serenade, and proceeded to sing many merry songs, accompanying their fine voices with music picked from their guitars.  A part of the entertainment consisted of a fandango, and the dance was much enjoyed by the men participating.  They had become quite boisterous in their enthusiasm.</P>
070.sgm:<P>But the merry music changed, and the sen&tilde;oritas played softly on their guitars the sweet strains of "Home, Sweet Home," bringing to the hearts of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:sturdy men the familiar words of the song, and thoughts of friends and home.  Suddenly a sob was heard, followed by another, and yet another, and tears flowed freely down the cheeks of the gold diggers.  Pieces of gold were generously tossed into the tambourine held out to receive them.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>'Mid pleasures and palaces though we may roam,<LB>Be it ever so humble, there's no place like home!<LB>A charm from the skies seems to hallow us there,<LB>Which, seek through the world, is ne'er met with elsewhere.<LB></HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Part Five</P>
070.sgm:<P>THE FIFTH LETTER BAG</P>
070.sgm:<P>THE HOMEWARD JOURNAL</P>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Fifth Letter Bag</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Village Record Office</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Christman:--We have had a streak of information from you through Judge Strickland who received a letter from his relative in California.  This stated that you were at work at some place sticking type.  I was glad to hear that you were doing something by which we have reason to suppose you can live.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I am afraid that Clinton will never again walk the strets of West Chester, that his bones will rest in California where the remains of thousands of others repose, who left their homes with bright hopes. </P>
070.sgm:<P>There is some stranger stopping in West Chester who resembles you very much.  He is about your height, steps as you did, and wears a straw hat like your old one, with the hind part of the rim turned down.  When we first saw him, we thought you had taken the wings of the morning and stepped over here to see us.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Since last I wrote you Death has entered Mr. Evans' family, and taken our little Katie away.  She died three weeks since of dysentery.  We all miss her.  She used to sing, "Enos Christman has gone to Califoria with his washbowl on his knee."</P>
070.sgm:<P>The editor has been away about half the time.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>One night some of the boys and I got terribly tight on ale.  It was a terrible time.  We vomited all over the editor's room in the office.  Charles was rich as a Jew, according to his talk.  We had an awful time of it finding the way to bed.  I was scared next morning.  I was afraid the editor would find it out.  But he has not.  Nobody knew anything of it, but the man in the oyster cellar.  I can't bear the sight of ale since.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We have had a few parties and picnics during the season.  I have taken a number of pleasant rides with ladies, but I have not squeezed a girl since you left, in spirit and meaning.  I spend a great deal of time with Sallie Cope, more as a friend, and for social purposes, than for anything else.  True, I have courted her at times, but moderately.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The ladies all want hugging.  Mary is in a fair way of being married.  When our <HI REND="italics">devil</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I go to market now for the editor and have fine times with the girls, who think I don't know how to market.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There is to be a picnic on the Philadelphia road, towards the city, to which I have an invitation.  I have a notion to go and take Miss Apple and Miss Cope.  I called to see Miss Apple last evening.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I might write a great deal more were I certain you would receive this.  By the next mail I hope to receive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Your friend and well-wisher,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Enos:--Your truly welcome letter dated May 24th arrived in West Chester July 9th, and was gladly received by me.  Do not do me injustice and judge me wrongly.  If you do not receive answers to your letters, you may conclude they are somewhere between West Chester and California, for I always answer them by the return of the mail, and assure you of my devoted attachment.  However, I hurt my finger and the doctor said I got cold in it, and so I had it in a sling for two weeks.  But thank Providence, it is well so that I can write now.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I wish, dear Enos, when you next write that you will tell me whether your feelings have changed any toward me.  I have a great deal of sympathy for you, away from all your friends, in a foreign land, deprived of all the luxuries and nearly all the comforts of life.  You must indeed feel badly when you do not receive a letter.  You are always in my mind.  I think of you through the day and dream of you by night, sometimes seeing you in the gold mines and sometimes upon the sea.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Enos, you have made every effort to obtain gold.  You have failed in the effort.  Be not disheartened.  Riches taketh wings and flies away but happiness no one can take away from us.  I repeat what I have said in all my letters, that it is not every man's luck to make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I guess poor Clint wishes he had never heard of the gold mines.  Your description of your trip from Mariposa to your present situation is laughable but sad.  It is easier to talk about than to endure.  I don't know where you got nourishment or the cow either.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I requested you in my last letter to inquire if you could hear anything of Theodore and tell him that father and sister together have sent him 13 letters.  My sister has written seven letters to him urging him to come home, but he has not received one of them.  She says she is not uneasy about him while he has his health, but if he gets sick what is to become of him, without money or friends?  We have had brother Theodore's portrait painted from his daguerreotype.  It is most excellent.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There seems to be a great deal of excitement at this time.  Professor Webster you know was sentenced to be hung for the murder of Doctor Parkman.  He has pleaded his innocence until within a few days.  He said he was innocent of the charge and called on God as searcher of all hearts to witness the truth of his statement.  He now acknowledges the deed and says that Doctor Parkman insulted him and he flew in a passion and struck him one blow, which was fatal.  He then took off his clothes and burnt them and cut the body up in pieces and burnt the head and buried the rest of the body in different places.  If they don't hang him, no person ought ever to be hung for murder <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Philadelphia has been visited by one of the worst fires that ever was there.  Three hundred and sixty-four houses burned down and many lives were lost and many persons injured.  The loss is more than a million of dollars.  It commenced in a hay store in Water Street.  In the upper part of the building was a quantity of powder and saltpetre, which soon made a terrible explosion, throwing wood, bricks, and everything up in the air and crushing men, women and children to the ground.  It burnt every house in Water Street above Callowhill.  It commenced at four o'clock in the afternoon and burnt until twelve at night.  The scene was distressing.  Women cried for their husbands and children, many of whom have not been heard of yet.  We saw the light quite plainly here, twenty-five miles away.  I have not been to see the ruins yet but I am very impatient to go.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Crowell, our Presbyterian minister, is going to leave us.  He has had a louder call in New Jersey.  Here he gets four hundred and fifty dollars and there he is to get nine hundred and house rent free.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The country has lost her best friend, and a great and good man.  President Taylor died July the 9th.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I believe there is nothing more at present.  I remain</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yours truly and sincerely,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Peebles Prizer</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear "Old Dad":--Your welcome letter of August 4th reached me a few days since.  The reason <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I cannot yet say that I regret coming here for I believe I can and will make some money before I leave, yet I have learned a lesson which I can never forget, and it would be well for others if they could learn it without the experience I have had.  If you get the " <HI REND="italics">blues</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I should like to know who that stranger is in town who resembles me so much.  Tell me if he has as fine a <HI REND="italics">proboscis</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday I received a copy of the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Please hand the enclosed to Miss Apple.</P>
070.sgm:<P>ENOS CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Own Dear Ellen:--After waiting with impatience for several weeks at the express office, I received your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>A letter from any one is always welcome, but you cannot imagine with what joy a person far from home and friends in a land where civilization gives way to a rude and savage life, receives a letter from the object nearest his heart on earth, written with her own hand and bearing her own sweet signature.  It is a pleasure to look at it without reading, but when we come to read her own tender words, then our happiness is great beyond expression.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Clint has changed his tune from "O, California, that's the land for me" to "O, West Chester gals, ain't you coming out tonight?"</P>
070.sgm:<P>Advise me to stay and try my luck another season, and in a year from now I promise to be with you.  Or beneath the waves of the ocean, or my bones bleaching on the plains, if Providence should so will it.</P>
070.sgm:<P>It is now growing late and I join you in a petition to the Almighty that He may extend His protecting hand over us, while I remain your trusting and faithful lover,</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. CHRISTMAN.</P>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Old Friend:--I am again engaged filling up a letter to you.  I am "Old Dad," still unchanged and unchangeable.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The National Guards had a grand encampment at Paoli.  They were on the ground four days.  Some ten companies were in attendance.  Some wild scenes were enacted on the ground on Friday night, which could probably be beaten only in California.  A lot of lewd girls were on the ground, and did a lively business.  The "Pennsylvania Protectors" were there.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I am sorry for poor Clint.  If he must come home, and if it is necessary for you to make up money to send him, his friends at home will make up the amount to pay you back.  It is not fair that he should be so much of a burden upon you.  I told some of his friends that you said Clint was sick and you thought he ought to come home, but did not tell them that you had, or would have, funds to send him, fearful that they would make no effort to pay you.  You have certainly acted very generously towards him, in attending to his wants while he was sick.  I rejoice to find in you so much devotion to a companion.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Miss Apple remains unchanged towards you, as far as I can judge.</P>
070.sgm:<P>When you bid West Chester farewell I was then going it strongly with Cad.  Now we look upon each other as strangers.  I never intended to marry her, and I am glad that I have escaped from the difficulty as I have.  I would like to have a wife.  It would be so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>California appeared to be a bone of contention among members of Congress.  I suppose you in California watched the proceedings in relation to your State with great interest.  It is at last one of the states of the Union.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The last mail from California brought a paper in your handwriting, printed at Sonora on the 4th of July.  I presume you are at that place now.  Where is it?</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yours truly, farewell,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Enos:--The mail leaves New York the 14th and I flatter myself that you would be disappointed if you did not receive a letter from me.  You speak of having left your trunk at Stockton in care of a gentleman who promised to send it to you.  From the account that I have had of the Californians, it appears to me I would be afraid to trust any of them.  Although I expect there are some good men there, who have gone out like yourself to try to make a fortune in a short time.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You must have a very contented disposition to be happy, for I am sure you have none of the comforts of life.  You cannot imagine, dear Enos, how exceedingly anxious I am to see you.  I was in hopes you had made up your mind to return home this fall.  A year seems a long while to look forward to, and I feel as if it could not pass as swiftly as it has, but time flies though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I am delighted that you have quit digging the earth for what you could not find, and have taken surer means of making a living.  If you can make enough to bring you back, it is all I ask, I assure you.  Although I would have no objections to your returning with your pockets full of gold.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We received a letter from Theodore.  He had left Georgetown and gone to a place called Spanish Bar.  He was well, and expected to leave California in November next.  He said he had made plum pies the day before he wrote, and they could not be beaten in the United States, for the dirt and the tobacco juice gave them a rich flavor.  He says he received the letters you took out, one year after date.  He says he has an appetite like a threshing machine.  He had an ounce of gold stolen out of his tent.  He knew who took it, but as he was a hard case, he thought he had better say nothing about it.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Dixon has quit gold digging and keeps a register's office.  Every one that goes to the mines records his name and pays fifty cents, and every one that wants to see who is at the mines pays twenty-five cents for a search.  His wife is getting along gaily.  She is as cheerful as a lark.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I am very well now, but a while before I received your last letter I felt miserably and I felt weak.  But when I heard such cheering news, I tell you there was a great change.</P>
070.sgm:<P>They are doing the first five miles of the Plank Road between West Chester and Philadelphia over the Schuylkill.  The fever is high for the direct railroad.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Jenny Lind arrived in New York last week, which produced quite an excitement.  She will visit Philadelphia in a short time.  The lowest price of tickets for her concerts is $8.00, from that up to $10.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I must now close, by wishing you health, prosperity and speedy return.  My motto is, "Absent, but never to be forgotten."  I remain as ever yours,</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Ellen:--Your kind letter of September 8th reached me by the last mail.  Often when in a melancholy mood of mind have I sat down and perused your letters over and over again, and they have nerved me up and driven all such feelings away.  If I had not one like you to correspond with, one in whom I can confide and trust, I scarcely know what I should do.  Next to the pleasure of reading a letter from you in this far-off region is that of gazing upon your likeness.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I am perfectly well satisfied that you love for no sinister motives, at least not for wealth, for you always knew I was poor, and I know full well that your greeting would be the same did I return without a dime, as if laden with the riches of Croesus. That I am anxious to return, you cannot doubt.  My motto is, "Fear not, but trust in Providence" that I shall be enabled not to be absent much longer.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We now have a post office at this place and as I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I wish you a happy Christmas.  And now, my dear Ellen, I must close, with my prayers for your happiness and our speedy meeting, and in the meantime, I will subscribe myself,</P>
070.sgm:<P>Ever your loving</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Old Friend:--Some six West Chester boys have returned within a few days.  The most of these are much worse off than they were before they started and are now in rather bad health.  James Dixon is dead.  They are all sick of California.  I would not urge you to return--your own judgment will tell you when that is best.  But I am thoroughly satisfied that a trip to California is but an adventure, and not of much benefit in a pecuniary sense.</P>
070.sgm:<P>That you continue to preserve your health and will be able to return with your constitution unimpaired is what I devoutly wish.  Do not sacrifice your health to pay Mr. Evans.  I hope you will be able to return his money as this would not make you feel dependent upon any one.  I do sincerely hope ere another year rolls around you will be home among your friends.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The business of the <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm: office is very good, and is still increasing.  The editor's eyebrows are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:as heavy as ever, though frosted.  Quantity and fierceness remain unchanged.  Sometimes I am editor, compositor, devil and collector.  By continuing in the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I have more to do now than ever.  Thomas Poulson is willing to do anything he is told, but takes his own time to do it.  The boys in the office call him "Porkey" on account of getting so fat and snoring so loud when asleep.  He also has great difficulty in having his coats made.  His legs are so short that the tail will drag on the ground.  He says he considers himself one of Delaware's best.</P>
070.sgm:<P>William Baker is a boy to my taste and liking.  He is spirited, bold and frank.  He says he loves Miss Hodgson as ardently as ever, and she loves him, too, but the pleasures of their love are something like the fruits of the Dead Sea, more to be looked upon than enjoyed.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your humble servant still retains the cognomen of "Dad" though as yet he is not daddy of anything.  I am not prepared to get married and I must stay away from the ladies.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We have had another terrible murder committed in this community.  It occurred at Rocky Hill, and was committed on the person of a young lady, a teacher of a public school.  The person suspected of the deed is a young man now in prison awaiting a trial.  The young lady was deliberately shot down in daylight in front of the school house.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I spent last Friday evening at Apples' and I also saw Ellen in the street last night.  I design paying her a short visit this afternoon.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We receive the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:.  It is a pretty good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:paper for the place and opportunities.  Do you get the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I am enjoying prime health and getting fat.  I also have whiskers.  How are you?  Have you a beard?</P>
070.sgm:<P>With the warm regards of your old and tried friend,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Enos:--Your last letter speaks of prolonging your stay another year.  That was not cheering news.  However, I shall still keep hoping that it may be sooner than I expect.  I know that time passes rapidly away and I know that you must feel that it will be greatly to your advantage to remain, so I must not complain, for if you continue satisfied, that is worth more than all the gold in California.  I am glad you got enough of mining so soon, for a comfortable place to sleep is far preferable to the damp ground.</P>
070.sgm:<P>It seems to me that every letter that I receive from you increases my love and makes me feel that the happiest day I ever knew will be when we meet again.  You have asked me to advise you, dear Enos, about returning home.  You know I would be overjoyed to see you.  At the same time, after having gone so far as you have, and suffering the hardships you did to get there, I certainly would give it a fair trial.  I think if you will act according to your own judgment, dear Enos, all will come out right.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have glad news to tell you.  Theodore has arrived safely home.  He left San Francisco the 28th of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:September.  He went from there to Chagres.  When he arrived at Chagres, he was taken with the brain fever six hours after he landed, and lay there eight days with it.  The doctor charged him two dollars a powder and the woman where he boarded charged him two dollars for a cup of tea.  He felt weak and had no appetite.  He then took the Pacific and went to Havana where he took passage on the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
070.sgm:, which landed him at Norfolk.  When aboard the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Dixon died on the 5th of September.  Theodore nursed him until he died, and gave him as decent a burial as any person could have given him out there.  Mrs. Dixon does not seem to mind her husband's death at all.  She is still flying around.</P>
070.sgm:<P>My dear Enos, when you start home take the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Bayard Taylor was soon left a widower after he came home from his tour.  He married a Miss Agnew of Hennet and now she is dead and buried.  She was very ill when she was married.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I took that gold dust you sent me to the jeweller and had a little more put into it and had a very pretty plain ring made of it.  I kept the gold dust in a bottle for it was loose and I would soon have lost it, otherwise.  I prize your daguerreotype and that ring more than anything I have in my possession.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I remain yours most sincerely and devoutly,</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. A.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Own Dearest Ellen:--Your highly prized letter of January 13th reached me last evening in fifty-one days after it was written, having made the quickest passage of any I have received since residing in the mining district.  I have been very fortunate in receiving letters, but many have not.  If the friends of many could only know what sadness their neglect creates, they would surely write often.</P>
070.sgm:<P>It affords me extreme pleasure to dwell on the many kind expressions of encouragement, love and hope.  You must have been in a very pleasant mood when it was written for it has a happy effect on me.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Last night, while in the fairy land of dreams, I thought that I had come near West Chester, but how I got there I knew not, and the first person I met and recognized was your own dear self.  After an embrace <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>As you suggest, I must give the country a fair trial.  I can do this by staying here another year and yet return within the three year period first laid down for my absence.  You perhaps think I am deferring my return longer than I should, but you know it is necessity and not choice.  Besides we are both young and I hope we may be better prepared than now for domestic peace and tranquillity and the varied duties of husband and wife.  Of one thing I am certain, at least.  I shall be better prepared to settle down permanently than I ever have been heretofore.  At home there is little chance for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I am still at work at my business and hope to sell out in time to be home at New Year's.  Dr. Gunn's family have arrived in this place.  They came by way of Cape Horn, and were out a long while.  I now have more comfortable quarters.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You remark that Mrs. Dixon is flirting around, apparently not regarding the death of her husband much.  Such a sentence strikes deeply into the heart of every adventurer here in California.  It excites his suspicions.  Every one has left friends, in a far happier land than this, whom he loved and respected and was loved and respected by them in return.  Many have left that comfortable land to endure all kinds of hardships here, for the very purpose of bettering the condition of those at home, to return and bless them with the fruits of their labors here.  And then to learn that those wives, sweethearts, relatives and friends have forgotten them, proved recreant and false to them, is too bad.  It is enough to set many crazy.  I know that some of my friends could never use me so.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You say you have had a ring made out of the dust I sent you together with some other which you added.  I am sorry I did not send you enough to complete it.  Your letters, your likeness and your ring are the most precious treasures I possess.  I never see them without thinking of her who gave them.</P>
070.sgm:<P>It is growing late and so, dear Ellen, good night, and may happy dreams and sweet slumber bless your soft pillow.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your affectionate</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<illus entity="a0070-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"A PRETTY GOOD PAPER FOR THE PLACE AND OPPORTUNITIES"</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Friend:--I am comfortably seated in the old <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>The last mail from California brought me a letter from you, and the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm: announcing your connection with its publication.  I hope it may eventually be of advantage to you.  I would like to be with you, in publishing some paper.  I think you will make money with the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:.  Your letter for publication is a good one and will appear in the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>West Chester was the focus of great excitement growing out of a murder trial going on in Court.  The murderer was found guilty and sentenced to be hung.  This murder--a great subject of local interest--added a large number of new subscribers to our list.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Evans is a candidate for State Senator, the office of which is to be filled at the coming fall election.  If he should get the nomination, he designs to withdraw from some of the labors of publishing the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I did not hear Jenny Lind.  The admission was too high.</P>
070.sgm:<P>My old fellow, you are much mistaken when you suppose I am going to get married shortly.  No, sir.  I will give you information of it in advance, when it is to take place.  I don't want a wife--I have no use for one.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Robert Lewis went astray from the principles of the Gideons, but has since repented, paid his fine, and is again a full brother.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>A few days ago I wrote to your mother in relation to your brother Jefferson.  Samuel Evans wants a boy to assist in attending store.  I think your brother would suit him.  I hope he will come to West Chester and if he should, I would take pleasure in giving him counsel and in making him feel at home.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The returned Californians in West Chester are recovering their health and going to work, and appear now to be contented with West Chester.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Excuse the careless manner in which this is written.  I was about half asleep while penning it.  Present my warmest regards to Clint.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your old friend,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dearest Enos:--I have read and reread your truly welcome letter of November 20th.  I am indeed glad my letters, poor as they are, afford you some pleasant thoughts when you feel gloomy and low spirited.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You still talk of remaining another year.  I hope it will be all talk and you will change your mind and return next fall.  I don't want to influence you to do anything that you will regret afterwards, but I don't feel as if I could advise you to stay another year.</P>
070.sgm:<P>A majority of the West Chester Californians yet living have returned.  They seem to be perfectly satisfied with their California experience and have no disposition to try gold digging again.  None of them have amassed very large piles of gold.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I went up the street the other day and I saw Dr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I have received two papers.  I tell you, it made me look when I saw "E. L. Christman and L. C. Gunn, Editors and Proprietors."  Then I received the paper containing the advertisement of your having bought one-half of the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>You speak the truth when you say I love you for yourself, and not for wealth.  I would love you as devotedly without a dollar as if you had thousands.  At the same time I hope you will make money, for you have sacrificed much and made great efforts to make money, and I would like you to feel well repaid for your trouble.  However, I think you have acted wisely and I know you are doing all for the best.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The trial of George Pharoah was concluded on the 12th of February and on the 13th Judge Chapman passed the sentence of death upon him.  Father called on him the same day and said to him, "George, the trial is over and your fate is sealed.  It would be a great relief to many, particularly to the jury, to know the facts of the murder from you.  The testimony brought against you is true and all you can say will not make it any worse for you."  After a little hesitation, he made a full confession.  He said he shot the teacher for her watch, and the reason he did not take it was because he saw the school children coming at a short distance.  In speaking of the gun wadding corresponding with the paper in his pocket he said he intended burning it, but when he returned to the house, some persons were there, and he afterward forgot it.  There never was so much excitement in West Chester <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I had a dream the other night.  I dreamed that you had come home.  I thought I never was happier in my life but when I awoke and found it was only a dream, I felt sad, very sad.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I remain as ever, yours truly and devotedly,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Much Loved Ellen:--Yesterday I received your affectionate letter of March 16th.  To say that its contents were eagerly devoured and with pleasure dwelt upon would be superfluous.  Nearly all the letters I receive urge me to return home soon, and in this they all recommend that which I most wish to do.  None can be more anxious for my return than I am, once more to visit my native home and friends.  But I think that where a person has undertaken the task that I have, he would be made of poor stuff indeed to stop half way.  I am yet young, not twenty-three, and now is the time to use my energies.  I believe a man must succeed here if he is energetic, industrious, persevering, and economical, and believing this, I would be doing injustice to my own feelings and to my friends to leave without giving it a fair trial.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>My dear Ellen, you must not think from what I have written above, that I love you less, or that I am getting careless or indifferent about my friends or home.  I am anxious to return, and have a home of my own or rather our own, a domestic fireside.  To return with as poor a hand as I left with would almost necessarily render this next to impossible.  You and I may just as well speak just what we think to each other, and therefore, I will use no reserve and I hope you will not either.  I could not bear the idea of taking a wife where the chances would be against my supporting her, and where one lives just upon what he earns and that just sufficient.  A protracted illness or disability would be sure to produce misery and wretchedness.  For myself, I could bear anything, but to see a sweet and confiding woman suffering on my account, would render me the most miserable of wretches.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Everything is very different in this country to what it was a year ago.  Then we could scarcely get anything to make one comfortable.  Now we can live tolerably well.  Our fare is improving greatly.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I hear that there are over sixty <HI REND="italics">old maids</HI>
070.sgm: in West Chester!  That is a great number indeed!  But I believe it is their own fault.  They won't accept when the beaux do propose to them!  There are also a good many <HI REND="italics">old bachelors</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My sheet is now full and I must close.  Do write me often.  Tell me all about yourself; everything, even the most trifling, interests me.  Believe me as ever your</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: Office of the <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Christman:--This is Sunday morning and West Chester wears the usual quiet air.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The old <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>The past week in West Chester has been one of great excitement.  The Spring Exhibition of the Horticultural Society came off.  We also had a company of Oregon Indians to amuse and initiate us into the customs and habits of the Indian.  Several thousand people must have visited West Chester from different parts of the county, among whom were some of the prettiest ladies ever allowed to live.  I saw Ellen there.  I am sorry you were not with us to share some of the fun and see the pretty girls.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your brother Jefferson has been with Samuel Evans about two months.  He does not like West Chester very well, and like you and I were when we first came here, has been a little homesick.  Jefferson is a smart boy.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Present my love to Clinton and tell him if he comes back to West Chester with a "pile," he will be formidable among the ladies.  They are fond of the "rocks."</P>
070.sgm:<P>All hands bid me present their respects to you and say they would be pleased to see you in West Chester.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your old friend</P>
070.sgm:<P>PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Own Dear Enos:--It was delightful to me to read over and over again your very interesting letter.  I had to laugh when I read your dream, and I thought how much more I would enjoy the reality.  I have had some amusing dreams myself but I would not like to put them down on paper.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You speak of the effect the reception or non-reception of a letter has on a Californian.  When I am expecting a letter and do not receive one, I feel disappointed, and how much worse must you feel when you are disappointed in a strange land, and among strangers.  I hear that some men fly to intoxicating drink to enable them to bear their disappointments.  What a distressing thing it is!</P>
070.sgm:<P>I hope you may sell out to advantage.  You have been more ambitious than any person I ever knew and I am sure industry will be rewarded.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mrs. Dixon continues as gay as a butterfly.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There is a panorama of a whaling voyage round the world here at present.  I went to see it on Monday evening.  I saw Cape Horn.  While I was sitting in the Hall I called to mind the last panorama you and I went together to see.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your younger brother is in Samuel Evans' store.  I have seen him several times, but I do not see that he looks a great deal like you.  I only wish he did look more like you.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Nothing more at present.  A speedy return is the prayer of her that loves you.</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Peebles Prizer</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Prizer:--Another week is ended, another week's work is over, and we are one week nearer the grave.</P>
070.sgm:<P>When your letter reached me, I received one from Panama, but who in the deuce it could be from I could not imagine.  However, upon breaking the seal, judge my surprise to find a letter from Frederick E. Foster, dated " <HI REND="italics">Panama Herald</HI>
070.sgm: office, July 3d, 1851."  It appears that he had started for California, but being seized there with a <HI REND="italics">pecuniary disease</HI>
070.sgm: such as I have felt on more than one occasion he was unable to proceed.  To replenish his exhausted coffers, he wisely went to work sticking type and writing editorials.  Fred has had some sharp lessons since he left the old <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>But my voyage, what has it been?  After a little Fourth of July excursion of eight months' duration, I find that I have drifted round Cape Horn and landed on the western shores of the Continent, in El Dorado, on a kind of half and half wild goose chase.  Accursed gold.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Ah, why was ruin so attractive made,<LB>Oh, why fond man so easily betrayed!<LB></HI>
070.sgm:<P>Think not by this that I am disheartened.  Far be that from me.  <HI REND="italics">Persevere</HI>
070.sgm: is the sentiment.  I am only a little tired of our barbarous, semi-civilized mode of living.  Can we ever look for a reunion of the four youthful spirits who entered the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm: office a few years ago?  If that cannot be, I hope to meet them one by one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>You must have had a splendid time during exhibition week, with Indians, pretty girls, etc.  But some of the latter you have all the time, and the Indians you should see in their native costume, perfectly nude except a breechclout below the waist, at least the wild Indians here go in that state.  I have seen numbers of them.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You say that Clint will be quite formidable with the ladies if he returns with "a pocketful of rocks!"  None of us has as yet gathered a very large "pile," but we expect to remain until we do make something, if that is forever.  I am doing very well now, and shall continue as long as I can clear three or four dollars per day.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I hope Mr. Evans will be successful in receiving the nomination for the Senate.  I think it would be of some benefit to you, either an increase of wages or a permanent interest in the establishment.  I should like to have an interest in a paper like the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Haines, Atkins and Davis are all in this neighborhood.  I should like to go home now, but I came here for <HI REND="italics">pecuniary benefit</HI>
070.sgm:<P>As ever your friend,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ENOS CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Have you any notion of coming to California?</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Betrothed Ellen:--Your letter of June 4th reached me on Wednesday last.  The mail was due early in the evening, but did not arrive until very late.  I was anxious, however, to hear from you and so posted myself in a good situation and so great was the rush, I waited until near midnight before I could get my letters.  I am very much pleased with your letter and I am only sorry I cannot write you something that will please you as well.  About three weeks ago I received one from my uncle dated and mailed in December last.  Your letter was written on the fourth of June and not mailed until the 16th.  If it had been mailed a day or two after it was written, it would have reached me two weeks sooner.  Whenever you have a letter written and Prizer is not ready to send one, you can direct it plainly to Sonora, Tuolumne County, California, and drop it in the post office immediately.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Yesterday I received a letter from our old friend, Cale Thornbury, dated June 18th, 1851.  He was then on the Klamath River near Oregon.  I believe he is doing very well, but the Indians are very troublesome in that neighborhood.  He had just received a letter from home and wrote as if he were in high spirits.  Although I have not been as successful as I could have wished, I have made something, and methinks I hear Hope whispering all is well.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Nearly every steamer that arrives now brings a great many ladies.  We are having beautiful moonlight evenings and were we together who could tell the pleasures of one evening walk?  I would have ten thousand things <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>You speak of a panorama of a whaling voyage exhibiting in West Chester.  Well do I remember the last panoramic exhibition I visited. It was of the Mammoth Cave, and other pictures.  On a Saturday, I think.  I know it was a beautiful moonlight evening.  I know we had a long walk after we left the hall.  I also know that we were happy.  And, oh, for a return of those glorious, happy hours.  That was not long before I left.  Do you remember the last Sunday I was in Chester County?  Well do I remember it.  Cad and Prizer, you and I were at Unionville.  I believe your equanimity was a little disturbed at my incidentally mentioning my determination of coming to California.  But I did not think I could start so soon after.  Ellen, I do wish you were here.</P>
070.sgm:<P>And now, dear Ellen, I must close by subscribing myself, as ever devoutly yours,</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ltr <HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: Office of the <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Friend:--A long time has elapsed since I last wrote to you.  I have been participating in exciting times, in the midst of a political campaign in Pennsylvania.  I have been electioneering, more or less, for the last two months.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I ought to have written some weeks since, but I wanted to wait and give you the result of the County Convention.  On Tuesday last, Henry S. Evans was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>On the Locofoco side our mutual friend, Capt. Apple, has been nominated for Treasurer.  The Captain will run well, but I think cannot be elected.  I am in a tight place.  I probably will vote for him as a personal compliment--but not to elect him.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have been enjoying myself.  I went to Camp Meeting at Pughtown. There was a large turn-out.  Mr. Evans went with me to Camp--but not to be spiritually benefited.  There was also electioneering to be done there.</P>
070.sgm:<P>In this region of country, we have had no rain for four months past, of any moment.  Between West Chester and the Brandywine every particle of grass is dried up, and the country is parched, like winter, or even worse than winter.  This morning it commenced raining, but enough rain did not fall to lay the dust, and the sun is again shining.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Jeff is getting along quite well with Sam'l Evans.  Sam'l is full of fun, and as big a devil as ever.  The editor will soon be blessed with another little <HI REND="italics">responsibility</HI>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The ladies--the sun of attraction to some young men--I think want a little more courting and hugging.  But to hug one, and neglect the others, is like taking a single grain of sand from the seashore, as the commencement to remove the whole mass.  You make no perceptible effect.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I must stop and pay a visit at Mr. Apple's.  Enclosed you will find a letter from Miss Apple.  All hands send their warm regards.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your old friend,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Own Dear Enos:--To describe to you my anxiety for the last three weeks would be impossible, therefore you may judge what a relief your truly acceptable letter was to my mind.  When I saw by the <HI REND="italics">Ledger</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My dear Enos, I am rejoiced to find that you are alive and well.  But in a place where there are such bad times and such cold-blooded murderers, an innocent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>My sister told me to send her best respects to you and says it is against her principles to advise anybody to remain in California.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Jeffries Babb has returned from California.  He says he has made up his mind that he can make more money between here and there than he can in that country.  He was in the mineral water business in San Francisco.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I remain yours most truly and affectionately,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Own Dear Ellen:--For the last two mails previous I received nothing from you.  Your truly welcome letter of August 31st came at length and I cannot express upon paper the happiness it brought me.  Prizer, I suppose, detained it in his possession, for his letter was dated later than yours.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I was in hopes that the villainous report of our supposed murder would not reach you, for I well knew the distress it would put you all in.  I wrote by the first mail after the occurrence, denying the story altogether, so that it must only have been a little over two weeks from the time you heard the first story until you read my letter contradicting it.  My poor mother worried worst of all.  After hearing the story she could not give full credit to the contradiction until she read it over my own signature.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I know you must have been harassed between doubt and uncertainty when you read that the proprietors, Messrs.  Gunn and Christman, had been so brutally murdered.  And I am told that some of my friends really concluded at once that I had shuffled off this mortal coil, but thanks to a kind Providence, it was not true and I am still here and permitted to indulge in the pleasing task of conversing, though at a distance, with her whom I hope ere long to make "my better half."  Theodore's knowledge of the way in which stories are often raised and circulated in California must have been a great consolation to you.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I am afraid that you make the picture of life in California a little darker than what it really is.  Bad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I see by a late <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>You and I, dear Ellen, have now been corresponding a good while, and as yet, with the exception of an indirect allusion to the subject now and then, we have said but little in regard to marriage.  We are pledged to each other, and I think we may just as well have a little more to say about the matter, and I should like to hear your views and opinions in regard thereto.  I suppose your parents are satisfied with me or they would have objected to my visits while in West Chester and our correspondence since my departure.  If I could establish myself on my return, I do not see any very strong objections to our getting married soon after.  If all this should turn out as I hope it may, I should look upon that as a very happy day.  This is a matter of some importance and I think we know each other well enough to canvass it thoroughly.  I hope you will write me fully and freely on this subject in your next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>My experience thus far through the world has been of a rather rough nature, and my ramblings have taught me to wish for a home, a domestic fireside, at which I could stop with pleasure.  Dear Ellen, I wish you were here now.  If it were not for the long distance and the difficult way, and the objections others would raise to the proposition, I would at once propose some means to get you to join me in this place.  I am building a house in a pleasant part of the city, which will be finished in about ten days, and which I think I can rent for forty or fifty dollars per month, and other suitable domestic arrangements could be made, I think, without any serious difficulty.</P>
070.sgm:<P>A few evenings since I jokingly told Mrs. Gunn that I was going to send for my sweetheart to come out here.  She laughed heartily about it and asked me if I didn't want a recommendation!  I told her I did, and she and Mr. Gunn each wrote me one, which I am enclosing.  They may perhaps afford you pleasantry.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sonora, October 9th, 1851.</HEAD>
070.sgm:<P>Having been acquainted with Enos Christman for more than a year, and lived in the same house with him, so as to observe all his movements by night and by day, I can testify to his good moral character and to his industry and general amiability of disposition.  He would doubtless make an excellent husband to any young lady who deserves a good one and as such he is recommended with the fullest confidence to the ladies of Chester County in general or to one of them in particular, knowing that the ladies in that section of the Union are able to appreciate true republicanism and manliness of character.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Signed with my hand and sealed with my official seal this 9th day of October, 1851.</P>
070.sgm:<P>LEWIS C. GUNN,</P>
070.sgm:<P>(Editor <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Having been acquainted with Mr. Christman for several months, I take the greatest pleasure in saying that I most sincerely believe that any lady who may unite her fate with his can't but be happy, and that it will give me much pleasure to have for a neighbor any lady whom he shall choose for a companion.  A nice little house is being built close by.  I hope it will soon be occupied.  One thing I will say that the lady will have to depend on herself.  All domestic duties she must perform.  This is California fashion.  But there is a pleasure in being thus independent of domestics.  Health, love, contentment, abundance and bright prospects are all here .  I would recommend the Nicaragua route as being the best, as it is the quickest.</P>
070.sgm:<P>E.L.B. GUNN.</P>
070.sgm:<P>This morning I concluded to have my likeness taken, and I forward it with this to you.  I am only sorry that it is not the original that is to go and the likeness to remain.  However, unless all my calculations are defeated, I will return home next fall or summer, before the cold sets in, and perhaps early in the spring.  The likeness I think is a very fair picture of the original in his everyday working costume.  If you compare this with the one you already have, you will perhaps be able to discern a vast difference in the outer appearance, but I can assure you the inner man has not undergone so great a change.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I broke the ring which you gave me and sent it down to San Francisco to have it mended.  Last evening it came back mended and as emblematic as ever of the love which binds us together, being endless.  I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>With your last letter I received also one from Miss Hunter.  It was the first I had received from her since early last spring and I had supposed our correspondence had ceased.  In her last letter she expresses her readiness to break off the correspondence, and I have written her a short note acknowledging the receipt of her letter, telling her that it should be considered by both of us as the last communication necessary to pass between us.  I had told you before that I had received from and written letters to her, and although you have said nothing in regard to it, I deem this explanation due on my part to you.  She is the only female except yourself and my mother, between whom and myself letters have passed since my departure from West Chester.</P>
070.sgm:<P>My daguerreotype will reach you just before Christmas and you will consider it a Christmas present.  And now, again I must bid you adieu, while I remain as ever your devoted and affectionate</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: Office of the <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Christman:--Here in the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm: office, we have hardly recovered from the late political campaign.  It made us a great deal of extra work.  The smoke of battle is gradually clearing away and we find ourselves licked like thunder throughout the State.  In Chester County we did the clean thing and proved ourselves " <HI REND="italics">sound corn to the tassel</HI>
070.sgm:."  The whole county ticket has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:elected by large majorities.  Our mutual friend, Captain Apple, was not elected County Treasurer.  It was a " <HI REND="italics">poor season for Apples</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Evans is elected Senator by a large majority, and will again go to Harrisburg.  His friends worked hard to keep up his vote.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We have a line of telegraph to West Chester and feel quite proud of the construction.  The office is at Mrs. Hunter's.</P>
070.sgm:<P>On Wednesday we will have the Circus.  This will bring the negroes to town.  We have also a course of lectures at the Methodist Church, which I very much enjoy.  We boys have formed a debating society, such as we used to have in your time.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The Gideons are all true to their ancient faith.  I acknowledge that I wait upon Miss Sallie Cope pretty regularly.  She is a very pleasant girl, fine company and good pastime.  But I am not married yet.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Write soon and full.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your friend,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Dear Enos:--I received your very welcome letter of August 10th and according to your request hasten to answer.  I generally look for your letters several days before I get them, but your last one arrived the very day I expected it, which was a great pleasure to me.  I read it with eagerness, for it was kind and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I visited my sister and while in the city I had my ears pierced.  I am perfectly satisfied with the saying that pride must be punished for they have been just as sore as they could be ever since.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There is very little news except political. The men all seem to have their heads filled with that.  Father was nominated by the Democratic party for the office of treasurer but he did not think of such a thing as being elected.  He had not been to a political meeting for years, and never talked politics to any person.  He is a strong temperance man.  He said he would never have believed that men would have been guilty of the little, dirty tricks that he had seen since he was nominated.  He said he would never get an office if it required him to give drinks and lower himself to speak to men that he did not respect or countenance before.  Mr. Evans was nominated for Senator.  The Whigs carried the whole ticket in Chester County, so of course Father was defeated but not disappointed, for he had made up his mind long ago that if it was to be gained by electioneering he would never be elected.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Mrs. Joseph Henderson requested me to ask you about her brother.  He keeps a restaurant and hauls provisions.  His name is Jonathan Roberts.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I think it very likely by the time you return, Mr. Prizer will be a married man.  Take good care of yourself, and try to make yourself believe that it will be better for you to come home.</P>
070.sgm:<P>From yours sincerely and devotedly,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Christman:--You express some desire to return and state that you are tired of California.  You want to know my opinion of business.  If you have accumulated enough, or any considerable portion towards commencing business, come home at once, by all means.  But if you think you are doing better in California than you might do here, hesitate before you return.  This is weighing your return on purely business grounds.</P>
070.sgm:<P>To draw a line between the doings of yourself and me for the past two years, I would at once say you have done the better.  I do not complain, nor do I despair.  But what I state is a fact.  I have not the slightest reason to entertain a hope of any proposition to share or have an interest in the profits of the <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>From experience, and other causes, my services have become almost indispensable in the office.  I labored incessantly for Mr. Evans' nomination, and to my exertions he is probably indebted for his seat in the State Senate.  I did not do this out of an interested motive, or with any object of future benefits to myself.  I know his character well, and have discovered his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>After his arrangements are pretty well fixed for his departure for Harrisburg, I will notify him of what will be to him a startling fact--that I will expect an increased salary in the future--say not less than $10 and probably $12 per week.  Should he refuse, he will soon lose my services, for I can get $15 per week elsewhere.  I do not think he would be so great a fool as to drive me from him.  My services are worth $20 per week to him now.  He can go away for weeks and months, and his business will go on during his absence as if he were at home.  This is precisely the position I stand.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Well, that daguerreotype<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
070.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">Frontispiece</NOTE>
070.sgm:<P>Do not infer from what I have said that I do not wish to see you home.  No indeed.  You know me--how I was opposed to your going to California.  But since you have risked so much to reach it, give it a fair trial.  I have watched your movements there with more than a brother's regard.  No one will receive you with a warmer heart than myself when you think it is best to return to your earlier friends.  May success crown your efforts.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Write often, and in detail, and I remain</P>
070.sgm:<P>In haste,</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Own Dear Enos:--How shall I express the unexpected joy I felt when I received your kind letter accompanied with your daguerreotype.  You could have sent nothing but yourself, that would have been half so acceptable.  Although it was such a great pleasure to receive it, it made me feel rather sad to see how much thinner you are.  But, oh, that awful California is enough to wear flesh and bones both away.  Your hair being short, and you with moustache and whiskers, alter your appearance very much indeed.  The eyes and mouth look very natural.  The sleeves rolled up and the knife sticking in the belt, make me think that it is a hard country, for one of the very best of men to be in.  But I am glad you sent it, for I love to look at it, changed as you are.  I do hope the next surprise I meet with, will be the original himself.  Do not, dear Enos, put off coming home later than next spring.  Let it be sooner.  Just to think, beside the glorious pleasure it will be to me, what a great pleasure it will be to your dear mother.  That part of your letter which speaks of California being made as good as any new country, if men had their families there, I think is a mistake.  Enough of the right kind of men will never go there to conquer the bad part of the community.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You say very little has been said with regard to the fulfillment of our engagement.  We both, I think, understand each other.  We have the greatest confidence in each other.  We love each other.  When you return and get settled, it will be an easy matter for us to fix a suitable and proper time.  We will have plenty of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Should you be successful where you are, I do not know how I should perform the household duties, but it would certainly be my greatest pleasure to try to do them well.  As I am always assisting Mother in everything they would not be very new to me.  I am very glad Dr. Gunn's family has arrived.  It must be so much more comfortable and seem more like living to you.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There seems to be quite an excitement about Hossuth the Hungarian.  He has arrived in New York.  Great preparations are being made in Philadelphia to receive him.  Miss Catherine Hays, the Irish Swan, is now singing in Philadelphia.  She does not produce the excitement that Jenny Lind did.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I saw by the papers a few days ago an account of a young man who had left a comfortable home in the South.  He had gone to California, been very successful in three years, and returned to Philadelphia.  He was taken very sick on his passage and when he arrived in Philadelphia, had not a friend, and went to the nearest tavern which was an awfully low house in Water Street.  He remained there two weeks when he was discovered by the police, almost in the agonies of death.  He told the police he had been robbed of nearly all his money while there, but he still had two bags which he wished sent to his parents.  One bag contained four hundred dollars and the other gold dust.  He had better never heard tell of California.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We had a very heavy fall of snow which lasted nearly two weeks, then we had another snow storm, which made the best sleighing known for many years.  West Chester was unusually lively.  The cars were not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:able to run from Saturday till Thursday, the snow having drifted so much.  The mail was carried in a sleigh.  Elizabeth Hodgson, and Poulson and Baker of the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I hope you will write soon, telling me you have made up your mind to come home immediately.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Sincerely and devotedly,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dearest Ellen:--Your kindly welcome letter of Dec. 8th reached me, acknowledging the receipt of mine of the last of October, together with the daguerreotype.  It does the soul good and sends a thrill of joy through the whole system to receive and read letters like that.  In the absence of late letters, I reread some of the first ones I ever received from you.  I never read them over without being reminded of the night on which we parted the last time, the burning tears that were then shed, the mutual vows that were then made by us both, and then our last parting kiss.  Those vows I have sacredly kept and intend to fulfill them all.  I'm thinking of you nearly all the time.</P>
070.sgm:<P>You have spoken of our union and you tell me you think your parents would throw no obstacles in the way.  That is well.  Parents should be consulted in regard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<illus entity="a070-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A LETTER TO ELLEN FROM ENOS CHRISTMAN</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>In one of my former letters, I suggested that it would be almost a year from the Christmas just past before I could return home.  The announcement surprised and astonished you very much.  I could not calculate with any certainty for I then had scarcely enough funds to carry me home.  But as I told you, I have now made up my mind to return between now and the time cold weather sets in, and instead of only arriving there about next Christmas, I almost hope by that time to call you wife.  How do you think that would sound?  If I get home in September, it will be a little over the period of three years set down for my absence at the time I started.  I don't want you to get tired of waiting.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Money without any other comforts or pleasures is of little value, and for the purpose of being again in your society, I willingly yield up all these fair prospects, although dimes can scarcely be made there where dollars are here.  You have complained in several instances of my ambitious propensities.  It may be, dear Ellen, that I have too grasping a spirit, but I regard a man without a laudable ambition with a feeling bordering on contempt.  Moreover, I have found by my contact with mankind, which has been none of the smoothest, that a man lacking ambition, energy, and perseverance scarcely obtains to even a moderate degree of success.</P>
070.sgm:<P>An office companion, a fellow-printer, who has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I received a letter from Mr. Thornbury.  He said a great many funny things.  I told him you had made frequent inquiry concerning him, and he said I should give you his respects and tell you he was flourishing.  He is far north in the Indian Country and has lost considerable by Indians, but is doing very well and is in fine spirits.  He will probably return home next summer.  I would like to go in company with him.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Believe me as heretofore, faithfully yours,</P>
070.sgm:<P>E. CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Peebles Prizer to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm: Office of the <HI REND="italics">Village Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Christman:--I am glad to hear you are in such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I am kept busy almost night and day in the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear fellow, my single days are numbered.  I will be married on the evening of the 18th inst. to Sallie.  The affair will take place quietly, in the presence of a few reliable friends.  When I go to housekeeping, I will probably occupy the editor's small house, on High Street.  I mean to enjoy life.  I go into the matter coolly and thinkingly--not with the wild enthusiasm of youth.  But I will tell you in my next how I get through.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Please excuse the brevity of this letter.  I am too busy to write more.</P>
070.sgm:<P>PEEBLES PRIZER.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Ellen Apple to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Most Adored Enos:--I received your very welcome letter a few days ago and was perfectly delighted to hear from you.  It was only 38 days from the day it was written till I received it.  You say you will be home before cold weather.  The sooner the better.  It seems selfish in me, but I cannot advise you to stay.  I want you to come home.  Please, dear Enos, do not put it off longer.  Begin to settle up your affairs soon, for it will take a long time to get ready to leave a place where you have been three years.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Mr. Prizer and Miss Cope were married by the Rev. Cookman.  They had quite a large wedding.  Mother and Father were there.  As Sarah Prizer and I are not good friends, of course I was not invited to the wedding.  They sent me a card to call on them, but if it were not that Mr. Prizer had been such a kind friend to me and I respect him so much, I would never go to see them.  I have not seen Mr. Prizer since he was married.  He has been quite afflicted since, with the inflammatory rheumatism, and has been compelled to remain away from the office.</P>
070.sgm:<P>There could be no objections to my fixing a day for our wedding, but I don't think it's worth while.  I will endeavor to be through with my sewing against you come home, and then we can set whatever time you think will be suitable.  We can soon decide that matter.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Our Theodore says the moon is in the right quarter for marriages.  Report says he is going to be married to Miss Hunter, but we don't believe it, for he spends too many evenings at home and keeps too good hours.  He is always home before ten.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The contractors of the direct railroad from here to Philadelphia calculate having it in running order in twenty-three months.  The depot is to be back of us, in Market Street.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Spring will soon be here, and I hope pleasant weather.  Take good care of yourself, dear Enos, and write when you can.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Most sincerely and devotedly,</P>
070.sgm:<P>ELLEN APPLE.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Fifth Letter Bag</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Enos Christman to Ellen Apple</HI>
070.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>My Adored Ellen:--But a little while now remains ere I intend to wend my way to my old home.  My home now, only because you are there.  And I must here tell you that it is for you that I do intend to return and make my home there again.  If you were not there many would be the days, months, aye, years, that would roll over ere I again visited the scenes of my younger days.  Possibly I might never return.  But if I only reach home safely, I know I will there find a richer treasure in you than I could gather here in a whole age, a treasure that will amply repay me for all I have endured.  When I return and get settled it will be an easy matter for us to fix a proper and suitable time.  I am glad you speak so confidently that your parents have no objections.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The nearer the time approaches for my return, the more impatient and restless I am getting.  But time flies on lightning wings and a few weeks will soon roll around.  Then, I am in hopes, we will not have to be separated a very long period at a time.  The last two weeks have seemed almost as long as the last two years.  I pray Heaven that when I start for home I may be favored with pleasant weather and fair winds.</P>
070.sgm:<P>By the last mail I forwarded to Mr. Evans a draft <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
070.sgm:<P>This will be the last letter I expect to write you from this place and, indeed, my next I hope to carry to you myself.  I hardly know what more to write, except to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I am making every preparation to leave San Francisco for Panama on the first of July in some one of the various steamships plying between those two places.  I think I shall cross the Isthmus and go direct to New York.  The Nicaragua route has a bad reputation here.  I am afraid that none of my Chester County friends will return with me.  I confidently hope to be with you in the beginning of August, and until then I need not assure you that I remain, as ever,</P>
070.sgm:<P>Your adoring</P>
070.sgm:<P>ENOS CHRISTMAN.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Homeward Journal</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, June 29, 1852</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--On Monday week, at 4 1/2 o'clock A.M., I left Sonora for Stockton, in a five-horse coach of Adams &amp; Co.  In the coach were fourteen passengers--a Chilian woman, a Mexican child, two Mexicans, a Dutchman, and several Yankees.  At Stockton, I took passage on a steamer for San Francisco.  I found the city very much changed in appearance.</P>
070.sgm:<P>A large number of persons bound for Panama held a meeting on Long Wharf and formed a company of 37, myself included.  Great excitement prevailed among the passengers and steamboat runners.  The steamship <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
070.sgm: came down from Benicia.  She is a splendid boat, and a good deal of competition exists between her and the <HI REND="italics">Winfield Scott</HI>
070.sgm:, also an excellent boat.  Fare is very low on both of them, steerage to Panama being only $40.  We obtained our choice of berths in the forward saloon or cabin in the <HI REND="italics">Winfield Scott</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I shipped ninety-three ounces of gold dust to the mint in Philadelphia through Adams &amp; Co., purchased a bill of $35 in clothing, and bought a watch at auction for $34.  Our company bought the following, as private stores during our passage down:</P>
070.sgm:<P>1 case claret wine<HSEP>$4.50</P>
070.sgm:<P>3 cans oysters<HSEP>3.00</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>6 boxes sardines<HSEP>$3.00</P>
070.sgm:<P>2 lbs. white sugar<HSEP>.50</P>
070.sgm:<P>1 can crackers<HSEP>2.50</P>
070.sgm:<P>3 lbs. butter<HSEP>2.50</P>
070.sgm:<P>2 lbs. cheese<HSEP>.50</P>
070.sgm:<P>1 bottle brandy, best<HSEP>1.00</P>
070.sgm:<P>1 can preserves<HSEP>4.00</P>
070.sgm:<P>We took our stores and baggage aboard, and drew our special deposits from Adams &amp; Co.</P>
070.sgm:<P>At noon on Saturday, in cold, foggy, and gloomy weather, the plank was drawn, two guns were fired on the ship, and in a few minutes the boat moved off.  In an hour we had passed the Golden Gate and were on the broad Pacific.  We kept down the coast in sight of hilly and rugged land until evening.</P>
070.sgm:<P>All is quiet and orderly on board.  There are many passengers and all are contented and satisfied, only a few having been seasick.  So far I have luckily escaped this scourge.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The weather has become more pleasant and the sun has shone occasionally.  We are a good distance out at sea.  Yesterday the sails were out all day and we made 254 miles.  Today there is no wind and the sails are not set.  I have seen no sea birds or fish of any kind.  The passengers amuse themselves with cards and I spent an hour in this manner today with several friends.  We passed a small island about dark, name forgotten.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July 4</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We have made about 240 miles each day. I have been somewhat seasick.  After continued thunder and lightning during the night, a very little rain, and squalls, at daylight yesterday we found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>After a warm and damp night, we arrived in the harbor of Acapulco, where we were boarded by the Custom House officers and permitted to land, paying the natives 25 and 50 cents for carrying us in boats to the landing.  The natives are nearly as red as our aborigines.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Acapulco contains a population of several thousand, and is built at the foot of very high and rugged hills, extending almost to the water's edge.  The streets are narrow and run a zigzag course, but are remarkably clean and well paved.  The houses are but one story high, with few windows and no chimneys, the floors usually laid with brick and cemented, the walls of adobes plastered and whitewashed, the roof of tiles well laid and cemented with plaster.  Each large building has an open court or yard in its center and some few of the houses are carpeted.  I observed one piano.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Fruits are abundant and cheap.  Cocoanuts, oranges, lemons, limes, bananas, and melons grow in various parts of the city and vicinity.  The coco groves are a great ornament to the place, with their tall, slim, trunks without a single limb to the very top, and then a fine bunch of nuts, and their long waving leaves.  The oranges, however, are not of a very fine quality.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The climate is very warm and the inhabitants dress in the coolest and simplest manner.  They are all Catholics and spend much of their time in amusements.  They have their gambling saloons.  In the afternoon, we attended a cockfight, at which large sums were staked.  There is a very strong fort, well armed, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Board and lodging is eight dollars per week; single meals one dollar, but they can be afforded at much less.  Dry goods and liquors are as cheap as in New York.  The steamers are here supplied with stores, coal, chickens, hogs, and cattle.</P>
070.sgm:<P>We had a deal of amusement with the fishing boys, who swarmed around the boat, swimming in the water, while the passengers threw dimes for them to dive after.  They are expert divers and would sometimes go down to the depth of 25 or 30 feet and seldom miss the object sought after.  The bay is not very large but finely protected on all sides by high hills.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July 7</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Sunday night the steamship <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
070.sgm: arrived in the bay and anchored close by us.  Early next morning, one of the guns aboard our ship was fired, warning all hands to be aboard, and we took our departure and were soon out at sea.  About one o'clock Monday night, the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
070.sgm:<P>I have been sleeping on a bench on deck.  Last night was hot and sultry, with a light wind offshore.  I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July 14</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--We arrived in Panama Harbor about 2 o'clock Sunday night, and landed next morning in small boats, paying two dollars for self and baggage.  Immediately on landing, I went to the <HI REND="italics">Echo</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Panama is a much larger and better built place than I anticipated.  The houses are all very strongly built of stone and adobe, and many of them are two and three stories high.  The streets are well paved, and considerable trade is transacted.  There are a good many American stores and hotels.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I hired a handsome little horse, for $21, to cross the Isthmus.  After one of the hardest rides I ever took, over the worst roads, we arrived at Cruces, 25 miles distant, and put up at the American Hotel.  During the time of crossing, it rained about half the time, it being the rainy season, and the road at places was exceedingly rough and muddy.  Many an unlucky rider was tumbled over his animal's head and the animals of many others gave out long before they reached Cruces.  I was exceedingly lucky, only dismounting once, and my horse did not fall a single time.  I carried a carpetbag with me, but would not do so again, as a man has quite enough to take care of himself.  A few women crossed over with us and we met a few going toward Panama.  They were, of course, all much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The road is over very high hills and down steep gullies.  The cuts are often twenty feet deep through the rock and so narrow that animals cannot pass each other.  A part of the road has been well paved at one time but it is now in ruins, which often makes it worse than had it never been paved at all.  I saw very little fruit growing.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Cruces, on the north bank of the Chagres River, is built almost entirely of straight poles set upright and covered with plantain and palm leaves.  It has a population of about 2,000.  Here we overtook many of the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
070.sgm:<P>After an hour's ride down the river next morning, we arrived at Barbacoas, which is the present terminus of the railroad.  There is one hotel in Barbacoas, at which some of our passengers took dinner.  At 3 1/2 o'clock the cars started for Aspinwall, 22 miles distant, fare $8.  There were two trains and the cars were well finished.  The distance is usually accomplished in two hours, but in our case the foremost train ran off the track, broke one of the cars, and detained us about three hours.  Fortunately no one was harmed.  The road passed over a comparatively level country and runs on the river bank at places.  We passed heavy mahogany timber and luxuriant vegetation.  It was raining and quite dark when we arrived at Aspinwall, and we had some difficulty in finding hotels for lodging.  At length we groped our way to the Ocean House, where we had a tolerably decent supper, a first-rate iced lemonade, and a good cot to sleep on.</P>
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070.sgm:<P>This morning we went to the steamship office and found that all the cabin tickets were taken at $64 and $80, and as nothing better could be obtained, we had to take steerage passage in the <HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
070.sgm: at $40.  At 9 o'clock the steamship <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Aspinwall is a place of only a few months' growth, is built on a marshy spot, and consists of two wharves, the railroad station, and a few stores and hotels, the latter principally kept by Americans. </P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, July 15</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Last evening we hoisted anchor and paddled out to sea.  I slept on deck until 2 o'clock when the rain drove me in.  The weather is very warm and the sea very rough.  A good many were sick.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, July 16</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--I lay on deck again last night, but slept very little.  During the night a passenger, a middle-aged man, died and was consigned to the deep.  This morning another old gentleman from Carlisle, Pennsylvania, died and was also consigned to the watery elements.  Some think it cholera, and many of its symptoms certainly favor that opinion.  Distance 209 miles.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July 18</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--No deaths today, and the sick are getting better.  I have been quite seasick.  Friday night another passenger died and was thrown overboard.  Yesterday we passed a small island to the west and St. Domingo to the east.  There was a shower, and we saw a large water spout.</P>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, July 20</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--A terrible day on board.  There have been seven or eight deaths and burials, and a large addition to the sick-list.  There is very little wind and the sea is smooth and rolling.  We saw seven sailing vessels, nearly all bound to the northward.  The ship is making fine speed.  Distance 300 miles.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July 21</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--There are two new cases of sickness, and two deaths today.  We have passed some half-dozen sailing vessels.  There is some little gambling done aboard.  My clean shirts were stolen.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, July 23</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Wednesday night we passed two or three lighthouses and a number of sailing craft.  At 4 A.M. we put another poor fellow overboard.  Three hours later we passed the narrow entrance to the New York Harbor, where the fort is situated.  On reaching the quarantine ground we were detained two hours in taking the sick aboard to the hospital, six in number, and also one dead man, making 15 or 16 deaths aboard.  After this was finished, and just as we supposed we were going on to New York, the captain informed us that we were under quarantine for 24 hours, and if any were taken sick during that time, we would be detained longer, but that we could go ashore and remain within the hospital grounds, with a high wall surrounding them.  We were very much disappointed and some made their escape and went on to the city.  I succeeded in getting ashore, where I remained until 2 o'clock, when I was given permission by the hospital overseer, on giving my parole to return in the morning, to go to the city.</P>
070.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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070.sgm:<P>Last night with a single exception was the first time I have slept in a civilized bed for more than three years.  It was quite refreshing to turn in between two snow-white sheets and to lay one's head upon a smooth, soft pillow.  I slept only tolerably well, arose early and took breakfast, returned to the quarantine grounds, and obtained my baggage from the steamer.  Most of the passengers had rid the boat of their presence somehow or other and the few who remained on board were anxiously waiting to be set at liberty.  Two of those whom we took ashore sick have since died, making 16 or 17 deaths in all.  The others are improving rapidly.</P>
070.sgm:<P>The balance of the passengers were permitted to leave the vessel at noon, and thus ends the sea voyage.</P>
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070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Part Six</P>
070.sgm:<P>THE SIXTH LETTER BAG</P>
070.sgm:<P>FROM THE PENNSYLVANIA JOURNAL</P>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Sixth Letter Bag</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">DeWitt Clinton Atkins to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Chris:--We were all glad to hear of your safe arrival home.  We had accounts of the cholera being very bad on the Isthmus at the time you were there and I feared you would be one of its victims.  All the boys want to know if you are well and if you are married.  I tell them that you will let us know as soon as it comes off.  Haines has just received official notice of his daughter's marriage.  He would not believe that it was his daughter that was published in the <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Sonora is built up far better than ever.  There are a number of adobe, brick and stone stores and dwellings.  Dr. Gunn is building a large stone house, with cut stone front, fireproof.  It will be decidedly the best built house in town when finished.  Murray rented his house to a woman that kept a restaurant on the Plaza, next to Jaid's butcher shop, and bought mine for himself and his brother to live in.  He paid me 150 dollars, and I had to move it on to his lot which cost me about 15 dollars.  I bought canvas and made a tent to live in, then I built a sort of cabin on my lot that cost me about 50 dollars, which is neither one thing nor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>I have just set up to a regular pot of beans.  If you <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Rinedollar moved to the Omega, a large saloon built by Mr. Holden, where his hotel used to stand.  Rinedollar opened a hicomflisten eating house which proved a failure.  He was to pay 350 dollars per month rent, but he cheated Holden out of it by signing all his property over to Rose and leaving the saloon between two days.  They are at the old stand, which he says Rose is fitting up for sale.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Homer is speculating in water ditches.  He invests all his money and wants to borrow more but he doesn't work any.  Thornbury and Mendenhall are starting a new paper down towards Oregon, to be called the <HI REND="italics">Northern Herald</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Haines left the River three weeks ago with the fever and ague and put the adored McGinley to work his claim to the shares.  Since then he has left.  The claim did not pay wages, I suppose.  Enoch Davis is still there, troubled with the ague a little.  Their company has disagreed all through, some have sold out, others have abandoned it, others say it will pay well, if rightly managed.  I give you the flying reports, for I can't find two stories that will agree.  One thing certain, there have no dividends come up this way yet.  Mr. Haines came up here from the River sick and penniless, and out of almost everything needful for his comfort, which I provided for him, as far as I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>A few days after you left, I went over to Dragoon Gulch and bought a claim, paying 75 dollars for claim, Tom, and cabin.  When I bought it I could make from three to four dollars per day, and have taken out as high as $9 in a day.  I have panned $7 some days since the water has gotten too thick to wash with in the Tom.  So I think when good water comes, I can make good wages.  I have not added any money to what I had before you left.  I have not much more than kept square since I have been on the claim, on account of the water being so bad.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I am as anxious to liquidate my debt as Mr. Evans is to receive it, and I intend to pay him, as well as I can.  The longer I have the use of his money, I shall increase the amount I intended to send him when you left, provided I make that amount.  I have been thinking of building a house on my lot.  I could rent it for double the interest I am getting.  Also I thought I would send Mr. Evans what money Whitman had of mine, but I consider it not advisable for I don't wish to place myself in the same fix that Mr. Haines is in at present.  If my claim was paying me wages, I should not hesitate.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Chris, I don't feel much like writing when I am not making anything, though there will be a good chance to make money this winter and next summer.  If I do not make anything against next fall, I reckon I shall in the course of eight or ten years more, at any rate.</P>
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070.sgm:<P>You will spur up the Gideons.  I am looking for something from them soon.  Give my warmest regards to all my young friends.  If you can induce some of them to write to me, it will be considered a favor thankfully received.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Write soon and tell me everything.  I will close with my best wishes for your happiness.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I remain your sincere friend,</P>
070.sgm:<P>D. W. CLINTON ATKINS.</P>
070.sgm:<P>P.S. About the killed and wounded in my next.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Good-bye.</P>
070.sgm:<P>D. C. ATKINS.</P>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">John L. Haines to Enos Christman</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Dear Enos:--I am now writing for the purpose of conveying to you the melancholy news of the death of D. W. Clinton Atkins, your fellow traveler through many trying times during your sojourn in this far-off land.  Some of Clinton's friends think he was disheartened but to me he was far from anything of the kind.  He always seemed to be in good spirits and had great hopes of making his pile.  Poor Clint!  He lost a good friend when you left him.  I wish he had gone home with you.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I have written to his brother in Philadelphia.  I did not go into the particulars attending his getting the smallpox, of which he died, for even the duty involved upon me to give this information was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>Sometime about the middle of November, along with rain, were very high winds which blew off the canvas roof of a neighboring cabin, the inmates of which Clinton invited to shelter with him.  One of them was not well at the time, and the illness developed into the smallpox.  He lay there in Clinton's cabin for several days, the weather wet and cold, taking no care of himself.  Neither did his partner, who finally got better and went away.  A week or so after they left, Clinton thought he was going to have the smallpox, but got better and thought no more about it; neither did I.</P>
070.sgm:<P>For three or four days previous to Christmas, I had not seen him, and so on Christmas morning I thought I would go to see him and spend the day.  It is impossible to describe my surprise when arriving at his cabin, blocked up with snow, I found him there alone, covered with smallpox and totally blind.  He was sitting over his stove with a blanket around him and scarcely any fire.  As soon as he became aware of my presence, he burst out crying and said, "I am glad you have come for I thought I was to die here by myself and my cabin be my grave."  He told me he had been bad for four days, unable to get anything for himself, not even wood enough to keep him warm.</P>
070.sgm:<P>I immediately cut wood and made a good fire and put him to bed, made him some warm tea and toast and then went into town and got medicine and things necessary for his comfort.  I stayed with him until the next day and then had to leave him again and go after more things.  This time I met with Enoch Davis and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>The last two days and nights I was with him, assisting Enoch, except when I went to town for something.  It was a lonesome business, the rain or snow coming down incessantly.  Dr. Burns attended him, but could render no assistance for Clinton had taken cold before he was found.  The doctor told us if we did not watch him closely we would not know when he died.  His was one of the worst cases Dr. Burns had ever seen, and he said he had seen many, though Clinton might have recovered had he had medical aid and a comfortable place sooner.</P>
070.sgm:<P>Imagine to yourself three persons in a lonely cabin situated in a deep ravine, the rain pouring down, a dark night, and nothing to be heard save the pattering rain and the barking of coyotes; one of the three lying in the worst stages of the smallpox, his face and hands almost as black as coal; the sick one in the last hour of his life and the other two sitting by, watching in silence for the last of earth; then you can see us as we passed the night of the fourth of January, 1853, in Dragoon Gulch, California.  At the hour of six in the morning Clinton Atkins breathed his last.  Silently we stood by him for a time and then proceeded to lay him out as well as we could, but I will not tell you all.  I cannot.</P>
070.sgm:<P>As soon as it was day, I went to town and ordered a coffin and returned, the undertaker making a promise to bring it out.  I waited until 2 o'clock in the afternoon when, the coffin not coming, I got a young man working in the Gulch below to go with Enoch and see why <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
070.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
070.sgm:<P>We deposited him in it and covered him over, sat down by the grave a few minutes and asked each other if we had done all we could for him.  We rose from the wet ground and left that melancholy place, stripped ourselves and bathed, put on other clothes and left for Sonora.  This is the history of the death of that good, kind friend, Atkins.  I'll say no more.</P>
070.sgm:<P>JOHN L. HAINES.</P>
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070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>From The Pennsylvania Journal</HEAD>
070.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">May 9, 1853</HI>
070.sgm:<P>--Wife Ellen and I were in Philadelphia yesterday to see the ship <HI REND="italics">Europe</HI>
070.sgm:<P>Memory carried me back to the day that I turned my face towards a land of golden promise and I thought again of the high hopes with which I then set sail, and the melancholy reflections upon all I was leaving behind.  As we were borne out of sight of home, many of us gazed at the familiar hills and vales, feeling that perhaps we might never look upon them again.  What trying times were those that followed for Atkins and myself.  It is a true saying that health is the greatest of blessings.  How easy it was for Clint to walk into trouble.  He saw more hardships in three years than in his whole life before, and he breathed his last in his lonely cabin in that far-off land.</P>
070.sgm:<P>But the thought of the dear burthen on my arm broke in upon these musings and reminded me that all was well with me.  Indeed, my hopes have been gratified and I have realized a fortune.</P>
072.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-072</TITLE>
072.sgm:<TITLE>California gold rush merchant; the journal of Stephen Chapin David.  Edited by Benjamin B. Richards: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
072.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
072.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
072.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
072.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
072.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>56-12476</LCCN>
072.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
072.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 262354</COPYRIGHT>
072.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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072.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Huntington Library Publications</HI>
072.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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072.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">California<LB>Gold Rush Merchant<LB>The Journal of<LB>Stephen Chapin Davis<LB>Edited by<LB>Benjamin B. Richards<LB>The Huntington Library<LB>San Marino, California, 1956</HI>
072.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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072.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT 1956</p><P>BY</p><P>HENRY E. HUNTINGTON LIBRARY AND ART GALLERY</p><P><HI REND="italics">Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 56-12476<LB>The publication of this volume<LB>has been assisted by<LB>The James Irvine Foundation Publication Fund<LB>of the Huntington Library</HI>
072.sgm:</p><P>PRINTED BY ANDERSON, RITCHIE &amp; SIMON: LOS ANGELES</p><P>DESIGN BY JOSEPH SIMON</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Contents</HEAD>
072.sgm:<P>page vii<HSEP>Introduction<LB>page 3<HSEP>The Journal, 1850-1854<LB>page 105<HSEP>Notes<LB>page 119<HSEP>Index</p></DIV>
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072.sgm:<P>FOR JANET</p></DIV>
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072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Introduction</HEAD>
072.sgm:<P>IN JULY 1850 a seventeen-year-old New England boy, Stephen Davis, and his brother Josiah sailed from New York City via Panama for San Francisco and the California gold fields.  They were but two of the thousands of Argonauts who were seized by the gold fever and journeyed to the Sierra foothills.  Many of these adventurers have left accounts of their experiences; some of them are clear and well written, others are no more than a letter or two written home or a journal valiantly begun but trailing off into silence once the trip was under way.  Among the journals that have been discovered, the diary of Stephen Chapin Davis is unusual because the author sees the gold rush through the eyes of a merchant rather than a miner.  And while it is true that many young men left home to seek their fortunes, contemporary passenger lists reveal that few were under twenty years of age.  Stephen's well-composed diary is therefore all the more remarkable.</p><P>In making four Panama crossings he never fails to mention a passing ship; he tells us the cost of goods and services, and he speculates, however briefly, on the prospects and present condition of business in the many places he visits.  Through his concise day-by-day entries he emerges as vital and enthusiastic as though his daily and nightly jottings written by candlelight, on shipboard, or under a tent roof had just been put down within the past few days instead of one hundred years ago.</p><P>Stephen was an engaging prototype of the Horatio Alger heroes.  At thirteen he was at work in the textile mills, and at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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072.sgm:sixteen he went to sea.  For a year he hawked papers.  When he sailed the first time for California he purchased five hundred copies of the latest New York editions and disposed of them at Panama, Acapulco, and San Francisco.  That such a practice was not uncommon is attested to by Bayard Taylor in his classic <HI REND="italics">Eldorado</HI>
072.sgm:.  On his supply trips to San Francisco young Davis brought back newspapers to the diggings, well aware of the salability of news to men far from home.</p><P>His motto, "Perseverance, Energy and Economy," ingenuously set down in his journal at Long Bar as a constant reminder to himself, was an expression of traditional American virtues.  He was deeply interested in religion and devoted to church-going.  Indeed one has the feeling that the life of a missionary, after university training, would have suited him perfectly.  No picture of the diarist is available; whether he was tall or short, dark or fair is not so important to our understanding as to know that he was sober and God-fearing by training and conviction, loyally devoted to his family and friends, and unusually single-minded in his quest for financial success.</p><P>Stephen was born February 16, 1833, on "the old homestead" near Dunstable, Massachusetts; he died twenty-three years later on October 4, 1856, presumably of tuberculosis.  His father Mial had died in March of 1844.  Two years later, having disposed of the farm and stock, Stephen and his brothers Josiah, Stilman, Mial, and George, his sister Lucy, and their mother moved to neighboring Nashua, a flourishing town of five thousand inhabitants on the Merrimack River just across the state line in New Hampshire.  The boy immediately went to work in the Nashua Manufacturing Company's textile mills, and later did odd jobs for the family of Elder George Evans in Manchester.  In the fall he enrolled at the Nashua Literary Institution, a school conducted by David and Louisa Crosby.  In March 1847 the family was again stricken.  Their beloved Lucy contracted typhoid fever and died.  Though Stephen, Mial, and their mother also came down with the same disease, they recovered, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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072.sgm:Stephen was sent to work as office boy with the family of Dr. J. H. Graves, probably to settle the doctor's bill.</p><P>We do not know when he learned that gold had been discovered at Sutter's Mill for the news reached the eastern seaboard slowly.  Of more importance to the Davises at this time was their mother's marriage to Mr. J. L. Doty on March 15, 1848.  Within a few days Mr. Doty and his family moved into the Davis house on Harrison Street, and that summer Stephen worked with his new stepfather in his shoemaker shop, which he did not care for.  But in his leisure time he did enjoy the <HI REND="italics">Cadets of Temperance</HI>
072.sgm: and attended their meetings regularly.</p><P>In the fall he was able to return to Mr. Crosby's academy.  Stephen speaks of liking school but was increasingly aware of being unable to concentrate upon his studies, for in common with a great many other New Englanders he wanted to "go to Sea."  He dutifully attended classes and did his homework until the spring of 1849 when he went down to Boston armed with a letter of introduction to the shipping firm of Blanchard, Sherman &amp; Company.  He signed on as cabin boy with the brig <HI REND="italics">Dudley</HI>
072.sgm: sailing for Galveston, Texas, on March 1.  Homesick, seasick, and without food for five or six days, Stephen was forced to attend the captain, J. W. Yates, who had erysipelas; but he tried nevertheless to be patient and uncomplaining.  At sixteen he was eager to be independent, purposeful, and was concerned more than the average boy with the seriousness of life.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Dudley</HI>
072.sgm: was laden with a general cargo of tinware, pins, needles, scissors, combs, buttons, and perhaps cotton cloth and books.  Watching the exchange of these "Yankee notions" for a return cargo of cotton, sugar, and molasses aroused Stephen's trading sense; later he was to show real business ability in the mining territory of California.</p><P>At Galveston Stephen's abiding interest in religion again manifested itself.  He attended the Baptist church, noting that galleries on three sides of the church were occupied by slaves while the lower part was reserved for the whites.  He also <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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072.sgm:described the Catholic church, an elegantly furnished large red sandstone building with stained glass windows.</p><P>Because of harsh treatment two sailors had jumped ship, and on the return voyage Stephen served as an able-bodied seaman.  "I am drove around by the rascally mates most shamefully, but get along the best way I can."  Except that the crew sighted a large steamship headed north, which they presumed was returning passengers and gold from California on the New York-Chagres run, the trip was uneventful.  Landing in New York with wages of fifteen dollars in his pocket to show for three months at sea, Stephen wandered around the city, taking special delight in P. T. Barnum's celebrated museum of wonderful curiosities, and then returned to Nashua on the New Haven Railroad.</p><P>Back home he carried papers for his brother Mial, but his heart was not in his work; nor did he seem eager to go back to school.  He had tasted the freedom of seafaring, and perhaps too, dreams of California, nourished by reports in the newspapers that he was delivering, increased his restlessness.  We do not know the actual incidents leading to the decision of Stephen and Josiah to go to the gold country.  Stephen was seventeen now and Josiah was several years older.  Perhaps they realized that the booming territory would provide good business possibilities; perhaps they had dreams of striking it rich, although Stephen, who was not robust, seemed less interested in mining than his brother; perhaps they simply wanted to seek adventure.  At any rate, by the time another year had passed, they had made a rather solemn agreement to set out together.  Their gold rush adventure begins with Josiah on his way to New York to secure tickets on the United States Mail Steamship <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia</HI>
072.sgm:.</p><P>After a fearful Atlantic storm that wrecked many ships, they reached Chagres, eastern terminus of the Isthmian crossing.  From the grass huts of Chagres they ascended the Chagres River to Gorgona in a boat propelled by three natives, then walked the remaining part of the fifty-mile transit to Panama City, having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:encountered poor food and worse lodging, mud, and drenching tropical downpours.</p><P>Reaching Panama at last, they learned their ship, the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
072.sgm:, was due in a couple of days.  When their baggage did not arrive from Gorgona in time to meet the sailing date, Josiah went on to San Francisco and Stephen stayed behind waiting for their possessions.  He saw the sights of the old Spanish city and worked on the <HI REND="italics">Panama Echo</HI>
072.sgm: as a printer's assistant until the arrival of the next steamer two weeks later.  Panama was not crowded at this time, for passengers on the <HI REND="italics">Tennessee</HI>
072.sgm: numbered less than 150 when she left for Acapulco and San Francisco.  Stephen steamed through the Golden Gate on September 4, 1850, not quite eight weeks after leaving home.</p><P>The brothers, reunited, left San Francisco after a few days, traveling up the Sacramento and then up the Feather River by boat to Marysville.  They began their quest for gold on the Yuba River near Rose's Bar, but with only $1.40 to show for three days of backbreaking labor, Stephen decided to try his luck at some other kind of "prospecting."  After several abortive business ventures, Stephen and Josiah set up a store and boardinghouse for miners at Long Bar on the Yuba.  On their trips to San Francisco and Sacramento for supplies they carried the miners' mail.</p><P>They enjoyed a good deal of success during the next six months, but Josiah was lured to Oregon by the attractive promise of rich farm land as well as stories about the Shasta Mines.  Two months later Stephen followed him, and he arrived in San Francisco two days after the disastrous fire that occurred on the night of May 3-4, 1851.  Stephen worked his way to Astoria and Portland on a small sailing schooner, the <HI REND="italics">Merchantman</HI>
072.sgm:, only to learn upon his arrival that Josiah had been unsuccessful and was ready to return.  So Stephen remained aboard the <HI REND="italics">Merchantman</HI>
072.sgm: when the schooner returned to San Francisco with a cargo of lumber.</p><P>The Davises met again at Sacramento in September.  When <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:Stephen fell ill with dysentery and Josiah's odd-job employment began to pall, both thought of going home.  They worked passage on the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
072.sgm: to Panama, Josiah as deck hand and Stephen as waiter.  The final task assigned all hands on the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
072.sgm: on reaching Panama was transferring two and a quarter million dollars in gold dust to the tender that carried it ashore.  Then occurred one of the most dramatic incidents of the whole journal, more fully described by Stephen than was usual for him.  He and his brother trekked overland from Panama twenty-five miles to Cruces and went down the Chagres River with a party of men in a whaleboat, docking at Chagres the evening of October 21, 1851.  The following morning an altercation between the natives and the Americans developed into a general riot.  Stephen's narration of the principal events of that day and the next, which reported the death of at least three foreigners and indicated the killing of nearly a score of natives may be exaggerated, but the main facts of the case seem correct.</p><P>The brothers were back in Nashua by Thanksgiving.  All through the long winter Stephen complained of the severity of the climate and of his inability to find a satisfactory job.  By January 1852 he had resolved to return to California.  This time his brother Josiah did not accompany him, having bought a farm and settled with his wife near Wilmington, Vermont.  But fifteen other men of Nashua and vicinity were to be his companions.  Most of them had been callers at the house during the winter seeking information and advice.  All Nashua was stirred by talk of gold; Stephen's stepfather and two others had gone to the Pacific in September.</p><P>Stephen departed from New York January 21, 1852, aboard the S. S.  <HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
072.sgm: paying $160 for steerage accommodations.  The expedition across Panama was uneventful though on one occasion Stephen received some ill-natured criticism from his companions when they got lost in the jungle below Gorgona; because he had crossed twice before, he was expected to "know all the nooks and corners of Central America."  Stephen was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:forced to wait from February 4 until March 7 for passage on the <HI REND="italics">Fre&acute;mont</HI>
072.sgm: to San Francisco, during which time he estimated that there were some four thousand travelers in Panama awaiting northbound ships.</p><P>On arriving at Acapulco the emigrants on his ship learned the fate of the <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
072.sgm: which had run aground and been wrecked on February 27 a few miles down the Mexican coast.  None of the passengers had been lost in the wreck, but they had suffered great privation in reaching Acapulco.  Stephen was persuaded by one of them, George Hager, also from Nashua, to give him his ticket in an attempt to board the <HI REND="italics">Fre&acute;mont</HI>
072.sgm:.  Hager was one of several hundred who had not yet been able to obtain passage.  He and Stephen were detected at the gangway, and the purser sent Hager ashore.  Stephen was ordered off the ship too, but pleas for clemency on the part of other passengers caused the officer to relent and the boy was permitted to re-embark.  The <HI REND="italics">Fre&acute;mont</HI>
072.sgm: arrived at Long Wharf in San Francisco April 1, 1852.</p><P>Purchasing "pickles, cheese, segars," potatoes, and other provisions, Stephen boarded a sloop for Stockton, intending to set up a store in the area south of the Mokelumne River known as the Southern Mines.  His stepfather was running a boarding-house at Chili Camp.  Setting out from Stockton for Sonora, Stephen passed through Knight's Ferry, Chinese Camp, and Shaw's Flat; then he trudged around for more than a month searching for work, visiting Coulterville, Agua Fria, and Mariposa.  He had met a man named J. Hilliard from Nashua, and during the latter part of May arranged to go into business with him at Coulterville.</p><P>For two years Stephen kept a store at Coulterville on Maxwell's Creek.  During this period he wrote of his expeditions to Stockton and San Francisco for supplies.  Business was brisk, and there are gaps in the journal entries of more than a month.</p><P>News of Josiah's death reached Stephen in April 1854.  This intensified his desire to be once more with his family and friends.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:After settling affairs with Hilliard, Stephen left Coulterville on April 24.  As the result of his two years of storekeeping, he carried with him more than $3,000 in gold dust as well as part ownership in two quartz veins.  He also later received from Hilliard a check for $769 for his remaining share in the store on Maxwell's Creek.</p><P>His description of the valley out of which he rode toward Stockton is filled with a genuine feeling for the land Stephen had come to love.  The voyage to Panama on the crowded steamer <HI REND="italics">Uncle Sam</HI>
072.sgm: was smooth.  Steerage fare from San Francisco to New York was only $100, the lowest price Stephen ever paid.  While the railroad had not yet reached Panama, more than thirty miles had been opened by 1854, and he boarded the train at Obispo and rode in style to Aspinwall, the little town on Navy Bay.  Stephen sold his "dust"--170 ounces at $17.60 per ounce--to the firm of Bee Bee &amp; Company upon his return to New York and by May 26, 1854, he was back in New England, his California adventure at an end.</p><P>His zeal for education sent him back to Crosby's school to finish the spring term, and we may conclude that he graduated, for within a week he was off to Colgate University, then called Madison University, in Hamilton, New York.  He described with enthusiasm the commencement exercises which consisted of lengthy sermons and discourses as well as prepared speeches by each of the graduates.  Stephen noted that 160 of the student body of 200 were preparing for the ministry, and he was tempted to enroll himself in the fall, but he finally concluded that his health would not permit it.  He was impressed by the beauty and dignity of one of the college buildings known as "Eastern Edifice," and by the appearance of the Utica Brass Band, and he carefully noted the texts of each of the many sermons that he heard.  His roundabout return to Nashua was made over the plank road from Utica to Rome and Albany, down river in the steamer <HI REND="italics">Hero</HI>
072.sgm: to New York, and then by the steamship <HI REND="italics">Bay State</HI>
072.sgm: to Boston, and by train back to Nashua.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>In September Stephen received the money from Hilliard for his store in California and decided to join a neighbor, Jonas Kendall, in another business venture; they purchased 865 barrels of apples to sell in England.  The two young men left New York October 14, 1854, on the Collins steamer <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
072.sgm:, arriving in Liverpool twelve days later to superintend the sale.  Stephen traveled second-class (the cost of passage was $75), keeping his ears open as he always did, alert for any information that might be useful to him later.  He listened earnestly to a group of Germans who described the Fatherland in the most glowing terms.  A party of wildly gesticulating French passengers also impressed him.  But for him the most interesting people aboard were three widely different personalities--an Anglican Scotswoman, a Baptist parishioner, and a Roman Catholic priest--who discussed religion during the entire trip.</p><P>Having found a room at No. 21 Duke Street, and laying in a supply of bread and cheese for suppers, the partners made a systematic tour of Liverpool, inquiring about produce prices at the markets, attending services at Pembroke Chapel and the Great George Street Chapel, and spending their leisure time in "improving reading" at the public library or in the New York Reading Room.  On a side trip to Manchester by rail, Stephen sought out the Smithfield Market to learn the prices of apples there.  Another excursion to Birmingham provided him with an opportunity of comparing English railroads with those in the United States.  Back in Liverpool he and Kendall went to the Town Hall, to Prince's Park, and to the Philharmonic Hall where they heard Haydn's "Creation."</p><P>Finally on November 8 the <HI REND="italics">Chatsworth</HI>
072.sgm:, a sailing vessel on which the apples had been shipped, docked in Liverpool after a tempestuous crossing.  The apples brought nearly $12 a barrel, which, after costs of docking, commission to the salesman, insurance and freight, fetched the two young men a profit of nearly nine hundred per cent.  Stephen wrote home for more apples to be sent as soon as possible!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>Urged by Jonas, he had decided to return on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Niagara</HI>
072.sgm: sailing for Boston December 9, but meanwhile the partners began a tour of the larger cities of the British Isles.  At Glasgow on November 18, 1854, Stephen's journal ends abruptly with: "After breakfast took a stroll over town."  Whether he returned to the United States on the <HI REND="italics">Niagara</HI>
072.sgm: in December, or waited for another shipment of apples to arrive, how his last two years were spent--these things are unknown.  A note appended to the manuscript by his younger brother George states that by June of 1856 Stephen had become too weak to write.  He died soon afterward.</p><P>As a boy he had been afflicted with what he called scrofulous ophthalmia as well as with tuberculosis.  Surely he was beyond ordinary seasickness when he vomited blood on the way to Chagres, and tuberculosis may have been the cause of his early death.  Though he never had cholera he encountered it in many places and was as ignorant as the average man of his time about its causes; he did have dysentery which was common in the mines because of the poor diet and general lack of sanitary conditions.  In September 1853, while shingling the roof of his new store at Coulterville, he was stricken by the sun and lay ill with "brain fever" for several days.  But however much this grim catalogue of afflictions may have shortened his life, it did not prevent his having an active one.</p><P>In preparing Stephen's diary for publication I have presented in full the portion of his narrative concerned with the gold rush, the major part of his journal.  Before the story opens he had recalled his early youth in a series of irregular entries and he continued making entries for six months after his return from California.  The only change made in punctuation is the use of commas and periods rather than the dashes of varying length which flowed more naturally from Stephen's pen.  I have also taken the liberty of beginning new paragraphs where it was advisable.  The names of ships have been italicized throughout and the form of the date of entry has been made uniform.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:Abbreviations, misspellings, and quotation marks are the diarist's.  It did not seem necessary to sprinkle the text with "sic" to clarify obvious mistakes.  I have used my own judgement in transcribing capitals when necessary.</p><P>The volume itself in which Stephen wrote is a rather large 750-page "Records" book, bound in dark green cloth with calf corners and spine.  The blue-tinted pages measure 8 1/8 inches by 13 1/8 inches with a margin on the left-hand side of each page.  A sticker inside the upper left-hand corner of the front cover shows that the book was purchased at "T. Groom and Co., Importers of English and French Stationery, Boston."  The handwriting is clear and legible, and the ink shows very little fading after one hundred years.</p><P>After Stephen's death the journal passed into the hands of his brother Captain George E. Davis; a later rubber stamp on the flyleaf reads: "Providence, R.I., Abbott Davis, Oct 26 1901."  Years later, in 1923, the diary was put up at public auction by the American Art Association in New York, listed in the catalogue of the sale as "California, Item 82, Reminiscence Manuscript," along with a collection of George Washington letters and other rare Americana, including books, broadsides, pamphlets, and even ship models.  Thus it came to the attention of Henry E. Huntington.  His bid for Item 82 was accepted, and the diary returned from New England to California to become Huntington Manuscript 521.</p><P>The editor is grateful to the Trustees of the Henry E. Huntington Library for making possible the publication of this volume, and to the Huntington Library for permission to publish its manuscript journal of Stephen Chapin Davis.  He also wishes to thank Arlene Hallstrom, Helen Thompson, and Eleanor Towles for their assistance with the editing and publishing of this work.</p><P>BENJAMIN B. RICHARDS</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">California Gold Rush Merchant</HI>
072.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June-July, 1850</HI>
072.sgm:<LB>STEPHEN C. DAVIS JOURNAL--1850-1854</p><DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Since my last date I have steadily continued in the paper business and owing to the excitement in regard to the trial of Dr. J. W. Webster for the murder of Dr. Geo Parkman I have found it quite profitable.<ANCHOR ID="n1">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1">Dr. John White Webster (1793-1850), Ewing Professor of Chemistry and Mineralogy at the Harvard Medical College, brutally murdered Dr. George Parkman, uncle of the historian Francis Parkman, to whom he was indebted for something less than $2,500.  Accounts of Webster by Edmund L. Pearson and of his judge Lemuel Shaw by Zechariah Chaffee, Jr., may be found in the <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Josiah who is now at work at the Scythe Factory in West Chelmsford, and myself have concluded to go to California as soon as we can get a passage via the Isthmus.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">10</HI>
072.sgm:<P>A few days ago Josiah went to N York and bought 2 through stearage tickets paying $215. each, to sail from N.Y. July 13, not being able to get passage on a steamer sailing sooner.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We are packing up for the journey, taking with us besides a la[r]ge supply of clothing, a tent, cooking utensils, medicines, &amp;c the whole weighing some 300 lbs.  I have sold my paper business to Mial for $55.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">11</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Took the Steamboat train for N York (via Worcester &amp; Norwich) after bidding adieu to friends and home.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Arrived in New York at 7 A. M. and spent the day in looking about the city, purchasing necessaries, &amp;c.  Visited Mr Abel Spaulding's family.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">13</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I bought 500 newspapers of todays issue.  And then we immediately went on board the Steamship <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia</HI>
072.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n2">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: where we found a dense crowd embarking with their baggage, which consisted of boxes, bales, trunks, bags, valises, bundles of blankets, picks, shovels, &amp;c &amp;c which so completely covered the deck as to render locomotion very difficult.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2">Wooden side-wheel steamer, 898 tons, built in 1849, and sold to Howland and Aspinwall for the New York-Chagres run.  In 1851 she was purchased by the United States Mail Steamship Company at $187,500 for duty between New Orleans and Chagres.  John Haskell Kemble, <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route, 1848-1869</HI>
072.sgm: (Berkeley and Los Angeles, 1943), p.242.  Hereafter cited as <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route.</HI>
072.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>At 3 P.M. the Steamship left the wharf amid the cheers and shouts of the passengers and assembled multitude, and after firing a salute, put to sea.  Upon getting out to sea we found a heavy S. W. wind blowing, accompanied by a rough sea, making most of the passengers sea-sick.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July, 1850<LB>14</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This is Sunday but it being rough, and most of the passengers sea sick, there is no service.  The gale is increasing and being dead ahead retards our progress very much.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The storm is still raging with increased fury, so that we make little or no headway.  It is so rough, and the vessel tumbles about so, that we can hardly get about deck.  I am very sea sick--so that I vomit blood.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 6 oclock this morning as I was lying in my berth (on the "wether side" of the vessel), a huge wave struck her tearing through her side "between decks" from the stem to stern.  I was thrown from my berth, over to the "lea side," under baggage, berths, mattresses, passengers and completely immersed in salt water.</p><P>The scene then and there enacted, showed the calm resignation with which the Christian viewed this catastrophe, and how he was ready at any moment to meet that "God" that he has endeavored to worship and obey, and also exposed the awful condition of the sinner who having put off the "Salvation of his Soul" until a "more conveniant season," was now (to all human appearances) to be so suddenly called from time to eternity.  For a few moments we all supposed the vessel was sinking, and the cries of the affrighted passenges "Have mercy Lord," "Save Lord or we perish," was distinctly heard above the roaring of the storm, from those who but a few moments or hours before were calling down the most awful imprecations upon their head.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:It is generally supposed that passengers were washed overboard as the sea made a complete breech through the vessel, coming in on one side and going out through the other.</p><P>Immediately all the passengers were divided into watches to pump and bail the ship so as to keep her from foundering, so that each man on board works eight hours of the twenty-four.  But although the carpenter endeavored to repair the breech yet so much water came in, that the engine fires were put out; and the passengers became so discouraged that they were upon the point of giving up for lost.  But the love of life was so dear, that they resumed their tasks determined to die at their posts.  The decks were swept, and everything moveable carried away, and the rigging &amp; sails were blown away and lost, so that the vessel was a complete wreck.  But a small peace of sail was got up on the mainmast to keep her head to the wind and so we passed the day, expecting every hour would be the last.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">17</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The storm rages as severe as ever, and with a heavier sea.  The lower Cabin is the only place on board where one can shield himself from the storm--and not here entirely--for occasionally a "sea" comes tearing down the hatchway drenching the occupants of this, the only refuge on board.  Water is "swashing" about the floor of this cabin, which is covered by those, who having spent the last eight hours in pumping and bailing, are now trying to seek some repose.  Our food consists of bread that has been soaked in salt water and cheese.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This forenoon the storm continues the same as yesterday, but at noon it seemed to increase.  And at one time the capt told us that "All was lost," "there was no hope," as a huge wave came toppling down over the unfortunate vessel; but by constant exertion she was kept afloat.</p><P>In the afternoon the engine fires were kindled and the machinery put in motion, but the progress was very slow.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July, 1850<LB>19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night as I was lying on the cabin floor, under the table by the side of Josiah, one of the stewards came and lay down on the other side, and after I got asleep commenced to remove my clothes, to get at my money belt which was about my body.  He appeared to be in such a hurry, and was so bungling, that I was awakened but lay quiet, and let him proceed.  As soon however as he had got the belt off, I grabbed him, and asked him what he wanted!  He tried to excuse himself by saying that he was "dreaming," &amp;c, and in view of our fearful situation I let him go, advising him to be cautious how he got caught in such a trick again.</p><P>During the last four days, we have all worked and slept in the same suit of clothes wringing wet, not having any thing dry on board.  For the last 4 days the vessel has made only 200 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Yesterday the wind died away and the sea became smo[o]ther.  The sun came out also, so that everybody took the occasion to dry their garments, and the vessel looked like one vast "clothes yard."  Today also the vessel is so covered with wet, mouldy &amp; rusty articles exposed to the sun.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fine weather with a smooth sea.  In the morning saw Crooked Island and soon after Watkins Island.  In the afternoon passed through the channel between Cuba and San Domingo, and soon after came in sight of Jamaica.  Saw a number of vessels.  Our accomodations as Stearage passengers are so filthy that we stay on deck night and day.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Since my last date we have had fine weather and very warm.  At 2 P.M. came in sight of the high land of "Porto Bello," and at 9 in the evening came to anchor at the roadstead of Chagres.  The steamer was soon surrounded by boats, dugouts, &amp;c, the boatmen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Early in the morning went ashore in a skiff, for which we paid $2. each.  We found Chagres to be one of the filthiest places I ever saw, and is situated on a low point of land, at the mouth of the Chagres river, and consists of several "thatched huts with cane sides" and 2 or 3 framed houses occupied as hotels.<ANCHOR ID="n3">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3">Hubert Howe Bancroft in his <HI REND="italics">California Inter Pocula</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We engaged passage in a large flat-bottomed boat, with 15 others for $10. each, to Gorgona, a distance of 54 miles.<ANCHOR ID="n4">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: The scenery as we slowly worked our way up the stream was very beautiful, the banks being a thick tangled forest of tropical trees and plants many of which were covered with blossoms of beautiful varieties, while parrots, and other birds of magnificient plumage sang merrily from their leafy covert.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4">The emigrants engaged passage up the river in all types of boats.  Stephen ascended in a flat-bottomed skiff; in 1851 he returned in a whaleboat.  The steamers <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
072.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Gorgona</HI>
072.sgm: were also available, but most of the travelers were carried in native canoes, or <HI REND="italics">bongos</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The boat is manned by three Americans who work very hard, but we help them a great deal, being very anxious to get to Gorgona.  At night we generally pull up to the river bank, stop 4 or 5 hours, then go on.  We sleep sitting, reclining or anyway we can get it, but always in the boat, which is so crowded that there is no room to lie down.  We sometimes get our meals ashore at the huts on the river bank, but more often take them on board from our private stores.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">30</HI>
072.sgm:<P>After a tedious journey of 3 1/2 days, we arrived at "Gorgona," and contracted with a Spaniard to transport our baggage to Panama at 12 cts pr lb., to be delivered the next night.<ANCHOR ID="n5">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5">J. D. Borthwick left a picture of Gorgona much like Bancroft's description of Chagres: a collection of native bamboo shanties, where the inhabitants lay in hammocks a large part of the time, "patiently waiting for time to roll on."  <HI REND="italics">Three Years in California</HI>
072.sgm:<P>After getting our dinner here, at 3 P.M. a party of 15 or 20 of us started afoot for Panama in the midst of a severe shower.  We found the "road" in a horrible condition, the mud being 4 or 5 feet deep in some places,<ANCHOR ID="n6">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: and at frequent intervals were dead mules in different processes of decomposition, which were now being torn and devoured by vultures.<ANCHOR ID="n7">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: After travelling 6 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:miles and finding we had lost our way, we came to a hut where we concluded to remain for the night, being completely drenched through.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6">Emigrants had their choice of taking a trail from Gorgona, or from Cruces at the head of navigation on the Chagres River.  Panama was still some twenty miles distant.  In dry weather the Gorgona trail was not particularly difficult to travel, but in the wet season-nine months of the year in Central America-it was better to spend another day traversing the rocks and rapids of the intervening five miles above Gorgona to Cruces, then following the old Spanish gold and silver trail which, though deeply rutted, was paved in places with cobblestones.  Joseph W. Gregory, <HI REND="italics">Gregory's Guide for California Travellers via the Isthmus of Panama</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7">The year before newspaperman Bayard Taylor in his <HI REND="italics">Eldorado, or Adventures in the Path of Empire</HI>
072.sgm: (New York, 1850), I, 23, had also noticed the dead mules and the vultures that perched on branches overhead; so did Frank Marryat in <HI REND="italics">Mountains and Molehills, or Recollections of a Burnt Journal</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">31</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We got our lodgings on the ground floor of the bamboo hut, without any blanket but just as we lay in our wet clothes, paying 25 cts each for the privellege.</p><P>Starting out in good season, we found the road, and after travelling 15 miles through the mud &amp; rain, at sundown we came to native hut famished with hunger, chilled through, and exhausted, and obtained permission to occupy a "roof" set on posts, some 8 or 10 feet from the ground, for the night.  The only food we could get was boiled green corn, which we partook of largely.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Aug. 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night we slept in our wet and muddy clothes, on the ground, and this morning feel quite sore and stiff.  Our breakfast consists of the same "variety" as our supper.</p><P>The streams were very high in consequence of the late severe rains, so that they cannot be forded as usual.  One creek that in Apr[il] is dry, was now a foaming torrent, so that the only way we could cross it was to get an axe and fall a large tree, on the bank, across; but then it was swept down by the current, and we cut another which lodged, and on which we crossed, a distance of 40 or 50 feet.  The next one we came to, we could get no axe, so we climbed a tree on the bank, crawled out on a projecting limb that reached nearly over, and then let ourselves down into the creek a distance of 15 feet by a grape vine made fast to the end of the limb.</p><P>In the afternoon we arrived at Panama covered with mud from head to foot, our clothes torn into shreds, our feet blistered, and our bodies exhausted by over-exertion and exposure.<ANCHOR ID="n8">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: We ascertained that the Steamer <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
072.sgm: (the one we had tickets for) would sail the 3d inst.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8">Panama, the chief city of the Isthmus, was situated on a rocky peninsula stretching a quarter of a mile into the sea from the slopes of Mount Ancon.  The population was about 8,000.  After the discovery of gold in California, the town became a scene of bustling activity with the arrival of the foreigners.  Hubert Howe Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of Central America</HI>
072.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August, 1850<LB>2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The condition of the "emigrants" as they come in is truely deplorable having no baggage to go to, to make a shift, it being all on the road.  Our baggage, which should have [been] here last night, is not in yet.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Josiah &amp; I waited until the last moment, and then as our baggage did not come, I concluded to wait for the baggage, while Josiah went on to San Francesco to await my arrival.  Accordingly I got my ticket transfered so as to go the middle of the month.</p><P>Bid "good bye" to Josiah, and found myself a stranger, in a strange land.  I got Lodgings at a Resturant for 37 1/2 pr night, and my food by the plate, so that it cost me about $1. pr day.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Today our baggage arrived in a wet and ruinous condition, so that I was oblidged to wash each article and then dry them between the frequent showers.</p><P>I sold a number of my Newspapers for from 12 1/2 to 25 cts each, but many of them were so damaged by water as to be worthless.</p><P>I have a "Valise" containing Medicines (sent to Dr. D. J. Locke by his brother L. F. Locke of Nashua) which are very badly damaged.<ANCHOR ID="n9">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I also take charge of a Valise &amp; 2 Trunks belonging to two men who went up in the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
072.sgm: with Josiah.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9">L.F. Locke, M.D., surgeon-dentist, manufactured teeth and performed dental operations with a "skill second to none in New England."  <HI REND="italics">The Nashua Directory for the Year 1856</HI>
072.sgm:<P>While I was selling papers the Editor of the "Panama Echo"<ANCHOR ID="n10">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: got into conversation with me, and offered me employment in his printing office, which I promptly accepted, to commence tomorrow.  This afternoon I attended a cock fight, a most cruel "sport," but which is the principal amusement of the people here.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10">An English language newspaper published by a North American for the California-bound travelers.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I went to work at the printing office this morning and continued through the day, my business being to work the "press," "ink," cleaning up, &amp;c, occasionally "setting type."  The work is not very hard but it is so hot that any exertion is sure to produce great exhaustion.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>This morning 22 Mule loads of "Gold dust" started for Cruces, with over $1,000,000.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Did not work much today, being troubled with "boils."  Steamers <HI REND="italics">Sarah Sands</HI>
072.sgm: sailed for San Francisco, and the <HI REND="italics">Isthmus</HI>
072.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Eudore</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">8</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Went out to the foot of M't Bolivar with a young fellow from California, to some fruit groves, and gathered a fine lot of rich fruit.  Oranges, Limes, Mangroves, Banannas, Pine apples, &amp;c, grow wild here.</p><P>In the afternoon there was quite a fracas between some "Yankee" and some "Kanaka" sailors, in which one of the latter got his leg broke, and several others were imprisoned.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">11</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This being Sunday I attended service at the "Catholic Cathedral" which is a large quaint stone structure, of the old gloomy style of architecture, with 4 towers, each being ornamented with oyster shells.  In these towers are several bells (most of which are cracked) which are "hammered upon" by servants for the purpose, at frequent intervals during the whole 24 hours and every day in the year.</p><P>There is no Protestant worship in the City.  During the day there was 2 or 3 severe quarrels, in one of which a man was stabbed in three places very dangerously by his wife.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">13</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The weather is showery, with a hot oppressive atmosphere.  A young man named James H. Ferriss of Triangle, Broom Co., N Y is stopping here on the same errand as myself, and I find in him a very agreable companion.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">14</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Passengers are coming in from the Steamship <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
072.sgm: and present the same woeful appearance that we did, when we crossed.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August, 1850<LB>15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The mails &amp; passengers from the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">17</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the midst of a heavy shower of rain at 3 P.M. I started for the steamship <HI REND="italics">Tennessee</HI>
072.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n11">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: in an open boat, a distance of 2 or 3 miles.<ANCHOR ID="n12">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: At 6 oclock hove up achor, and started for San Francisco.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11">This was the first <HI REND="italics">Tennessee</HI>
072.sgm:, a wooden side-wheel steamer of 1,275 tons built in 1848 for the Savannah Steam Navigation Company, and intended for service between New York and Savannah.  In October 1849 she was purchased by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company for $200,000.  Arriving at Panama from New York in fifty-seven days' running time, she served on the West Coast until March 6, 1853, when she went aground at Tagus Beach, Bolinas Bay, just north of the entrance to San Francisco Bay.  <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route</HI>
072.sgm:, p. 248; Frank Soule&acute;, John H. Gihon, and James Nisbet, <HI REND="italics">The Annals of San Francisco</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12">The roadstead at Panama is a fine anchorage, but there were at this time no dock facilities.  Thus to board a north-bound steamer, it was necessary to take a small boat, often going out through the surf and shallow water on the back of a native.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>It is Sunday but there being no minister on board, there is no divine service.  Very fine weather.  Steering S.W.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Beautiful weather but very warm.  Having rounded Pt Malo last night, we are now steering W.N.W.  Saw a brig bound to the southard.</p><P>There are but about 50 cabin passengers, and 75 Stearage passengers, so that not being crowded we enjoy ourselves very much.  Capt Cole is a good commander, doing all he can to make us comfortable.  I sleep on deck, finding it much more agreable, although I am frequently roused from my slumbers by smart showers.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">23</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fine weather, and a pleasant company on board.  At noon we are 430 miles from Acapulco.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Are in sight of the mountainous coast of Mexico  Some very high peaks are visible.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 11 A.M. entered the bay of Acapulco and came to anchor.  There were 8 sail of vessels, but no steamers, the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Sands</HI>
072.sgm: having left 4 days ago.</p><P>I went ashore in a "dugout" which is rigged with a frame on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Went ashore carrying a lot of N York Papers which I sold for one dime each.  I went into the fort which I found to be a beautiful structure of white sandstone of a curious shape, and I should think capable of destroying any force that could enter the harbor.  There is a large park between the fort and town, which being well shaded with trees, is a beautiful retreat during the hot midday sun.</p><P>The Cholera is raging here now and we are admonished to beware of fruit, but it was so ripe &amp; fine that I bought a good supply.<ANCHOR ID="n13">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13">Many emigrants to the mines were struck by the dreaded Asiatic cholera on whatever route they followed, whether by land or sea.  Nearly all the journals of the forty-niners mention the disease, which attacked without warning, brought great pain and suffering, and sometimes carried away its victims in a few hours.  It was not until 1883 that the microorganism causing the disease was identified by Koch.  The men en route to California did not know that the severe outbreaks were generally caused by contaminated water.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<P>The Steamer <HI REND="italics">Carolina</HI>
072.sgm: from San Francisco with 50 passengers, and the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
072.sgm: with 200 passengers arrived in port.</p><P>Took on board 30 passengers who came through Mexico, and at 6 P.M. sailed for San Francisco.  After getting out of the harbor, saw the light of a large vessel steering to the Southard.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fine weather, with head wind, which creates a circulation, so that the heat of the sun is very comfortable.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night a man named Wm Hurd from Memphis, Tenn.  died of dysentary.  He came on board at Acapulco, unwell.  At 9 A.M. the bell tolled, and the passengers assembled on the quarter deck to witness the cerimonies of the burial of the deceased.  His body was sewed up in canvass with a heavy weight at his feet, and he lay on a plank in the lea gangway with the "American Jack" thrown over him.  The Capt then read the English burial service and at a given signal the body was consigned to the deep.  His brother was on board and mourned bitterly.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August-September, 1850<LB>30</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Crossed the mouth of the Gulf of California and are now in sight of Lower California.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sept. 2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The weather is quite cool, the wind being in the Northard.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Saw Steamship <HI REND="italics">Northerner</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 3 P.M. came in sight of the "Golden Gate" and soon after worked our way up that rock-bound channel, past "North Beach," when a full view of the harbor, shipping &amp; City of San Francisco was before us.  The Steamer went out to "Rincon point" and anchored, some 2 or 3 miles from the city.  It being 6 oclock when we came to anchor, I concluded to remain on board for the night.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>While at breakfast, Wm. G. Parkinson of Baltimore and [Mr.] Olover of Maine came on board to get their baggage that I brought from Panama, and from them I learned Josiah's whereabouts.  I went ashore with them, and put up at the "Eastern Hotel" on Jackson St, where they and Josiah board, and then went in search of Josiah, and found him at work on a house, one mile back of the city, for $5. per day.  In the afternoon went around with my Newspapers and sold quite a number.<ANCHOR ID="n14">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14">One of the New York passengers on Bayard Taylor's ship sold 1,500 copies of Horace Greeley's <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
072.sgm:, and other papers he had brought along, at one dollar a copy.  Taylor, who was working for the <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
072.sgm:, came out of the City Hotel with twelve papers that he had used to stuff in the corners of his valise, and sold them to a boy on the corner for $10.  <HI REND="italics">Eldorado</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Bought a lot of San Francisco "Dalies" at the rate of 6 1/4 cts and sold them at the rate of 12 1/2 cts each.  Also sold more of my N York papers.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I am engaged in the same business as yesterday, Josiah being still at work on the house.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">8</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Went over to Happy Valley<ANCHOR ID="n15">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: and attended worship at the Chapel of Rev. S. H. Willey, who formerly was our school-teacher in Dunstable.<ANCHOR ID="n16">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: The building was of cloth, with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:wooden frame, and was capable of seating 150 or 200 persons.  The audiance was small, and the singing rather feeble, but the preaching was good.  After the service was over, Mr Willey invited us to his house and introduced us to his family.  We remained some time and enjoyed a very pleasant conversation.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15">Happy Valley was along Yerba Buena cove reaching southward toward Rincon Point.  It was entered by a path from the junction of Bush and Battery streets by way of First Street.  The area centered between First and Second, Mission and Natoma streets.  Hubert Howe Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
072.sgm: (San Francisco, 1884-90), VI, 180 <HI REND="italics">n</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16">Samuel Hopkins Willey (1821-1914), clergyman, school teacher, editor, and author, was the second Protestant minister in California.  He sailed from New York on December 1, 1848, as a representative of the American Missionary Society and reached Monterey in February 1849.  With Padre Ramirez he served as chaplain of the state constitutional convention in the fall.  Later he became vice-president of the College of California, 1862-68, and acting president, 1868-69, and wrote <HI REND="italics">A History of the College of California</HI>
072.sgm: (San Francisco, 1887), which traced the transition from the little Contra Costa academy begun in 1853 to the University at Berkeley.  See sketch of his life by Harris Elwood Starr in <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">9</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Paid our board bill at the rate of $14. per week and took passage for Sacramento in the sloop <HI REND="italics">Mary Pope</HI>
072.sgm: for which we paid $6. and are to board ourselves.<ANCHOR ID="n17">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: In a squall lost the main hatch, and received other damage.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17">From 1849 on there was keen competition between sail and steam vessels, and between rival steam navigation companies, on the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers.  Rates were finally stabilized in February 1854 by a combination of steamboat owners and operators, known as the California Steam Navigation Company and capitalized at two and one-half million dollars.  From San Francisco to Sacramento cabin accommodations were $10, deck $7, and freight $8 per ton.  To Marysville the charges were $12 cabin, $10 deck, and freight was $15 a ton.  To Stockton on the San Joaquin costs were $10 cabin, $7 for deck passage, and freight was $6 per ton.  <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francisco</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Yesterday we got lost in one of the sloughs of the river, and found some trouble in getting on the right track, but at length arrived here last night.  I find this a flourishing city of 10,000 to 15,000 inhabitants, and that a great deal of business is done here.  But our stay was so short that we saw but little of the place.<ANCHOR ID="n18">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18">Sacramento, or as Stephen sometimes called it "Sac City," was at this time second in size and importance to San Francisco, though it was not until 1854 that it became the capital.  It was notable for its rats, the great quantity of red dust over everything, and the winter floods which inundated the city and surrounding plains.  A levee had been built which afforded some protection.  The streets were wide and straight, crossing each other at right angles, and numbered 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc. from the river and A, B, C, etc. from north to south.  J Street was the principal thoroughfare, with wharves at its foot.  <HI REND="italics">Three Years</HI>
072.sgm:, pp. 100-102; <HI REND="italics">Mountains &amp; Molehills</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At noon we (Josiah &amp; I) got a chance to work our passage to Marysville in a schooner laden with provisions.  So off we started, Josiah pulling an oar, and I steering.  The river was very low, the channel difficult, and the current rapid, and the schooner got snagged several times badly, so as to damage the cargo.<ANCHOR ID="n19">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19">By August 1850 all steam traffic, except for one little steamer, the <HI REND="italics">Yuba</HI>
072.sgm:, had been discontinued because of the low water in the Feather River.  Small vessels, propelled by sail and oar, continued to bring provisions to Marysville and other northern towns, but they reached the head of navigation only with difficulty.  See Earl Ramey, <HI REND="italics">The Beginnings of Marysville</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At noon arrived at Marysville and after getting dinner got our baggage stored at Jones warehouse.<ANCHOR ID="n20">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: We then got some provision, took our blankets, cooking utensils, some clothing, &amp;c. and started for "Long Bar" "Yuba River."<ANCHOR ID="n21">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: The sun was so hot, the road so dusty, and our packs so heavy, that we could not go very fast.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20">During the winter of 1850-51 the city of Marysville was incorporated at the place formerly known as Nye's Ranch, in that triangle of land between the Yuba and Feather rivers.  It claimed a population of nearly 10,000 in 1853.  Clarkson P. Hale and Fred Emory, <HI REND="italics">Marysville City Directory</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21">Long Bar, named because it was the longest bar on the river, had also the longest period of success.  Developed first in the fall of 1849, work was still progressing in 1858.  As Stephen and Josiah walked north and east from Marysville along the gold-rich Yuba, they passed river-bar towns and mining camps every few miles named in honor of an early man of prominence in the locality.  Thus:  Ousley's Bar was about ten miles up the Yuba at the mouth of Dry Creek and had been named for a Dr. Ousley of Missouri.  Never very rich, it was covered with mining debris from upriver by 1879.  Theodore Sicard was a French sailor who, leaving his ship in 1833, had found his way to the Yuba by 1848, and mined and traded at the spot that bore his name.  Parks Bar, the richest of all the camps on the river, had been named for David Parks who had brought his wife, the first white woman in the township, and several children with him across the plains.  So unusual was a man with a family in the mines, the place was named in his honor.  Theodore Cordua arrived in California in 1842 and had dreamed, with some success, of a huge wilderness empire akin to John Sutter's.  His claim has since disappeared, covered over by tailings from later hydraulic mining methods.  Rose Bar has also been obliterated by the ruinous debris from later mining.  Here Jonas Spect found gold on June 2, 1848, the first point where gold was discovered on the Yuba.  John Rose was a Scot who started a store there with his partner in the fall of 1848.  Kennebec Bar was named after the Kennebec Company of Maine miners who located just opposite the lower end of Long Bar.  [William H. Chamberlain and Harry L. Wells], <HI REND="italics">History of Yuba County, California</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In answer to our enquires of those we met, as to "how the mines held out" &amp;c, some told us that we could not earn our board, that we had better turn back, and go to the states as soon as possible, &amp;c, while others told us to go on, that we were on the road to fortune, and that the mines yielded immense returns.</p><P>At sundown we had got as far as the table land opposite Ousley's Bar, where we heard the rattle of the auriferous gravel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:as it passed through the machine, and saw the operation of mining for the first time.<ANCHOR ID="n22">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">17</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We awoke after sunrise feeling very sore and stiff from our tedious journey of yesterday.  After preparing our breakfast, we went down to the river to learn the operation of mining, remaining about the "bar" all day.<ANCHOR ID="n23">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23">Diggings on the regular streams in California were divided into "bed" and "bar" diggings.  Bed diggings were those made at low water or by damming the stream at a place usually covered by water at even the lowest stage.  Where the current was swift and the bedrock smooth, little gold was found.  Bars or flats were banks of sand, clay, or gravel covered only at high water.  Rich bars were often found at the mouths of canyons or gullies or at the bends in rivers on the inner side of the bend where any deposit carried down from above would lodge, those spots being richest where the water had its strongest eddy when the bar was overflowed.  Hittell, <HI REND="italics">Mining in the Pacific States</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Took our packs and started up the river.  At noon while resting under the shade of a tree at "Sicards bar" got into conversation with Mr S. D. Loud of Amesbury, Mass. who kindly invited us to take up our abode with him, which we gladly accepted.  We found him to be a very intelligent and agreable friend from whom we received much useful information.  His advice to us concerning our future operations was very beneficial.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Started this morning up the river, stopping at "Park's &amp; Corduway's" "bar" and at noon arrived at Rose's "bar".  Not liking the prospect at any of these places, in company with an old miner we started to "prospect" a certain "flat" near by that was supposed to be rich; but after a hard afternoon's work we were doomed to be totally disappointed in this, our first experiance in mining.  After cooking our simple meal, and partaking of it, we returned to the tent of our friend Mr Loud where we remained for the night.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm: <HI REND="italics">September-October, 1850</HI>
072.sgm:<LB></HEAD>
072.sgm:<P>Since my last date we have been mining on our own hook, with a pick, pan &amp; shovel furnished by Mr Loud.  The weather is scalding hot, and we find it no easy task to ply the "pick" and bend over the "pan."</p><P>At 3 P.M. we have realized the sum of $1.40 for the time and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:labor we have spent at mining in Cal. and so concluded to go down to Long "bar" to "prospect."</p><P>Late in the afternoon we arrived at Long "bar,"<ANCHOR ID="n24">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: and as we stopped into "Uncle Jeffs House" to make some enquires, a sick man lying in an adjoining room spoke to Josiah, asking him to come into his room and see him.  Very much surprised at such a request from an unseen person, he went in, and found a middle aged man lying in a berth sheltered from the burning sun by a single thickness of cotton cloth only, who was so emaciated and reduced as not to be able to help himself, and there lay, apparently in the last stages of dysentary.  He came from N. York. in the same steamers with Josiah, where they became partially aquainted, so that now he recognized Josiah's voice.  His name was Ashley Stone and [he] was from Wilmington Vt.  He requested us to remain on the "bar" until he either recovered, or his disease terminated fatally, as he expected it would.  Being in want of a cook at this hotel, I accepted an offer of $50 pr month to fill this vacancy, and immediately entered upon my duties so that I could wait upon Mr Stone constantly.  Josiah went back up to "Sicard bar" immediately, and got employment at mining at $8. per day.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24">By the spring of 1850 there were 1,000 people at Long Bar.  It boasted a steady population of 300-400, though in winter, when the mines could not be worked, it was much larger.  During 1850 a ferry was established across the river to Kennebec Bar.  There were a half-dozen stores, eight or ten saloons, six or eight hotels and boardinghouses, and a post office at this time.  <HI REND="italics">History of Yuba County</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">28</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The number I have to cook for is small so that I get along very well.  I have to bring my water nearly 1/4 mile.  Mr Stone is recovering rapidly and will probably soon go into business.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Oct. 4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Mr Stone has so far recovered as to walk out a mile or two.  Today he bought out the store of Dr Devant and has sent for Josiah to come and assist him.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Josiah came down and has agreed to work for Mr Stone 6 months for $50. per month.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">8</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Missrs Dill &amp; Brown proprietors of this Hotel, have failed; but I am fortunate in getting my pay $25.  I have agread to continue <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:in my culinary operations for the new Landlord (Mr Scott) at the same rate.</p><P>Josiah is taken sick with the fever &amp; ague so as to be confined to his cot.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">October-November, 1850<LB>18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I am afflicted with sores on my feet so that cannot walk, and can hardly stand.  I am not 1/2 mile from Josiah (who is still confined to his bed) yet I have not been able to see him for some time.  Circumstances seem to frown at us now but we hope for better times.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Josiah has recovered from his disagreable complaint and now enjoys good health.  My feet are much better, and I hope will entirely heal up in a few days.  We have concluded to accept Mr Stones offer "to sell out his store for $260," and the goods at wholesale prices.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Commenced taking account of stock which consists of Groceries, Provisions, Clothing, mining tools, &amp;c.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">28</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Finished taking account of stock which amounted to about $900. giving our note for $700.  Business is not very driving, but we spend our leisure time in preparing for winter.<ANCHOR ID="n25">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25">Large quantities of water were necessary for washing the gold-bearing earth or clay so that rain was always desirable in proper amounts for successful mining operations.  In summer the miners generally engaged in wet diggings in the river beds or alongside the streams, often throwing up heaps of auriferous gravel from dry ravines to be washed when the rainy season set in about November.  When the rivers were full the earth was carried to the watercourse or flumes were built to carry the water to the site of the earth to be washed.  Thus in October, before the rains began, business at a store might well be slack because the miners were not at that time panning out any respectable amount of gold.  Heavy rains during the winter, however, would halt mining operations altogether, and lead the men to seek amusement in town.  <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francisco</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Josiah went down to Marysville and bought some goods.  Among other things he bought 190 yards Drilling for a covering for our tent paying 30 cts pr yard.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Nov. 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We are both busy sewing our tent covering which is quite a job.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The covering is finished and we have just got an extra set of tent poles set up.  At 3 P.M. a Sheriff rode up and summonsed Josiah to appear at Court in Marysville tomorrow as juror.  Accordingly he assisted me in getting the tent cloth spread and then set out on foot for Marysville.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>Our building is 52 feet long and 17 ft wide, and consequently the covering is very large so that I could get but a small part of it tacked down.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Arose at sunrise and found the "covering" torn badly by the wind but by close application I succeeded in repairing and securing it by dark.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night at midnight Josiah arrived home, having got through sooner than was expected.  Today we have got our house in good order for winter.  We take a few boarders at $11. per week.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Since my last date we have been hard at work paving our store with cobble stones, cutting wood, &amp;c.</p><P>We get most of our goods by sending to Marysville, by Mr Humphries, a teamster who charges 3 cts pr lb for bringing from M[arysville].  I here add a list of cost and sale price of some of the principal articles:</p><P>Salt Pork<HSEP>cost<HSEP>.19<HSEP>retail<HSEP>.25 per lb</p><P>Ham<HSEP>"<HSEP>.43<HSEP>"<HSEP>.50 "</p><P>Potatoes<HSEP>"<HSEP>.21<HSEP>"<HSEP>.25 "</p><P>Onions<HSEP>"<HSEP>.83<HSEP>"<HSEP>1.00 "</p><P>Sugar<HSEP>"<HSEP>.28<HSEP>"<HSEP>.40 "</p><P>Hard Bread<HSEP>"<HSEP>.19<HSEP>"<HSEP>.25 "</p><P>Coffee<HSEP>"<HSEP>.50<HSEP>"<HSEP>1.00 "</p><P>Butter<HSEP>"<HSEP>.75<HSEP>"<HSEP>1.00 "</p><P>Flour<HSEP>"<HSEP>.19<HSEP>"<HSEP>.25 "</p><P>Tea<HSEP>"<HSEP>.80<HSEP>"<HSEP>1.50 "</p><P>Lard<HSEP>"<HSEP>.40<HSEP>"<HSEP>.60 "</p><P>Candles<HSEP>"<HSEP>.75<HSEP>"<HSEP>1.25 "</p><P>Salt<HSEP>"<HSEP>.12<HSEP>"<HSEP>.25 "</p><P>Quicksilver<HSEP>"<HSEP>.85<HSEP>"<HSEP>2.00 "</p><P>Molassess<HSEP>"<HSEP>2.50<HSEP>"<HSEP>4.00 Gall</p><P>Vinegar<HSEP>"<HSEP>2.50<HSEP>"<HSEP>4.00 "</p><P>Tacks<HSEP>"<HSEP>.50<HSEP>"<HSEP>1.50 paper</p><P>Picks<HSEP>"<HSEP>3.00<HSEP>"<HSEP>5.00</p><P>and other things in proportion.<ANCHOR ID="n26">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26"><P>A similar list of provisions prepared in 1849 for the prospective miner showed:Mess Pork<HSEP>per bbl.<HSEP>28.00</p><P>Bacon<HSEP>per lb.<HSEP>28</p><P>Hams<HSEP>do.<HSEP>35</p><P>Sausages<HSEP>do.<HSEP>40</p><P>Flour<HSEP>per bbl.<HSEP>12.00</p><P>Sugar<HSEP>per lb.<HSEP>15</p><P>Tea<HSEP>do.<HSEP>1.00</p><P>Coffee<HSEP>do.<HSEP>12 1/2</p><P>Chocolate<HSEP>do.<HSEP>40</p><P>Beans<HSEP>per bu.<HSEP>1.50</p><P>Rice<HSEP>per lb.<HSEP>10</p><P>Dried Apples<HSEP>do.<HSEP>25</p><P>Jerked Beef<HSEP>do.<HSEP>25</p><P>Lemon Juice<HSEP>per bottle<HSEP>1.00</p><P>Saleratus<HSEP>per lb.<HSEP>1.00</p><P>Vinegar<HSEP>per gal.<HSEP>1.00</p><P>These were San Francisco prices.  The author stated that because of high charges for transportation, prices in the mines could be expected to have increased 300 or even 400 per cent.  Felix Paul Wierzbicki, <HI REND="italics">California As It Is &amp; As It May Be, Or, Guide to the Gold Region</HI>
072.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">November, 1850-January, 1851<LB>24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Today it commenced raining and blowing a perfect hurricane, so that now the rainy season has fairly set in, and our tent is quite water proof.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Dec. 12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Business is tolerable good, but I remain in the Store and attend to it, while Josiah works out mining, getting from 7 to 8 dollers per day.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We have concluded to run an express to Sacramento and San Francisco for letters for miners.  Accordingly I went to Kennebec &amp; Ousleys "bars" while Josiah went to Sicard &amp; Park's "bars" and we got some 300 names to get letters for, besides some other errands, so that I went immediately.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Jan. 20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I have just returned from below bringing some 50 letters and $300. worth of goods.  I left San Francisco just after a Steamer came in from the States so that I bought 125 N York &amp; New Orleans papers at the rate of 15 cts each.  I have sold them all for 50 cts each.  The postage on letters is .40 cts, but we get $1.50 each, so that the express business more than pays the expenses of the trip, and the goods that we sell can be bought for about 1/2 in San Francisco that they can in Marysville.</p><P>Mr Hull (the blacksmith) and Wm. Middleton of Va. live with us.  Business is better, and as we have a good stock of goods, we can now compete with older stores.</p><P>Mr Stone has been down to San Francisco to find some business but has not succeeded.  So he came back bringing some goods, and having bought a tent for $150. he is now in trade here.  He is speculating considerable having bought "Uncle Jeffs House" and sold it again.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Mr Stone has sold out his store, and bought a horse &amp; cart and intends to use it in hauling dirt down to the river, but a few days after sold it, and commenced building a store near ours.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">January-February, 1851<LB>30</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Josiah's health is good, but I am troubled with sore eyes, which I expect are caused by the artificial light during these long winter evenings.  Business is tolerable good and we get along very well.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Feb. 16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This is my birth day, being 18 years old.  I have made another trip to San Francisco, and got quite a number of letters.  As soon as I come in sight of the "bar" on my return, the miners drop their tools and run to meet me, in haste to get the letters from their dear friends at home.  And those who are so unfortunate as to receive no letters, frequently <HI REND="italics">rate</HI>
072.sgm: their friends at home most severly, for neglecting so important a duty.  And as they look upon their fellow-miners (who are more fortunate) reading epistles of friendships and constancy penned in the fine hand of a female, frequently a tear comes unbidden to the eye, while the heart greives at being thus forggotton by loved ones at home.  But sometimes a letter bears a black seal, and I have seen the recipient of such a missive convulsively grasping a lock of hair it bore, uttering lamentations, and sobbing as only one can when he has lost " <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
072.sgm: " whose affection and happiness was closely entwined, and almost inseperable with his own.<ANCHOR ID="n27">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27">In describing the social life of Californians when the only news from home and the outside world was brought in two or three times a month from New York via Panama, Bancroft says, "This letter-opening at very wide intervals is a sort of gambling with fate, in which hope not unfrequently stakes happiness against fearful odds."  <HI REND="italics">California Inter Pocula</HI>
072.sgm:<P>While at Sacramento I purchased 320 lbs Quicksilver at .90 per lb.<ANCHOR ID="n28">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I bought 150 N York &amp; N Orleans papers at San Francisco and when I got on board the steamer for Sac City I had only $1.25 in money, and was about 250 miles from home.  But at Sac City I sold some $15. worth, and after paying my passage to Marysville ($12.), I bought some more papers.  So that after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:selling enough at Marysville to pay the freight on my goods (some $40.)  I had about as many as I started with.  My Mottoe was "Energy," "Perseverance," and "Economy."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28">Mercury has been used from ancient times in separating gold from the impurities in which it is found, and was in general use in California after 1849.  The fortunate chemical affinity of mercury for gold made it possible to place a small quantity of mercury--about two ounces to each ounce of gold expected, as determined by a previous test--in the bottom of pan or rocker to which the particles of gold clung leaving the sand and other foreign matter to wash away.  The resultant amalgam was then squeezed through buckskin and finally separated by retort.  In the Burke rocker, or quicksilver machine, extensive use was made of mercury, placing it behind each of a number of cleats.  <HI REND="italics">Mining in the Pacific States</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">February-March, 1851<LB>26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Josiah has just returned from San Francisco, and also a trip to Mokelume Hill to find Uncle E.G. Hutchins and Cousin T. A. Hutchins, who are mining in that vicinity.  One or both of them will come to Long bar to make arrangements for the summers work.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Mar. 8</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I have just returned from San Francisco bringing 65 letters and about a ton of goods, among which was 125 lbs wedding cake of excellent quallity, it being put up in air tight tins.  It cost me .23 cts, and we sell it for .50 cts per lb.<ANCHOR ID="n29">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29">Wedding cake may seem a strange delicacy in the life of a brawny miner, but these men seemed to indulge their expensive tastes, feasting when their pocket-books and the stock at the grocery afforded the means.  "Dame" Shirley wrote of a housewarming dinner at Indian Bar that consisted of oyster soup, fried salmon fresh caught, roast beef and boiled ham, fried oysters, potatoes and onions, mince pie and pudding (without eggs or milk), Madeira, nuts and raisins, claret and champagne, and coffee.  Louise Amelia Knapp Smith Clappe (pseud. Shirley), "California in 1851," <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
072.sgm:, II (1854) 151.  The latest edition of these remarkable letters published serially in <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer is The Shirley Letters from the California Mines, 1851-1852</HI>
072.sgm:<P>During my absence one of our lodgers, Mr Hull, had all his money stolen from under his pillow early one morning, while he had gone out to kindle a fire in his shop.  The whole population of the "bar" was at once aroused, and scouting parties were sent in all directions to bring in any suspicion persons, while large numbers were engaged in hunting about the "bar" to get some clue to it.  At last it was found by "Geo Carr" by the side of the path, from our store to the river.  Mr Middleton (one of our lodgers) went down to the river after a pail of water soon after Mr Hull went out--and before he missed the money ($1250.)--and very strong suspicions rested on him, so that at one time, the crowd made preperations to lynch him, but as there was no positive evidence Mr Stone prevailed upon the people to let him go, and he very soon after left the camp.</p><P>At another time, a man stole a pick from our store, and it being supposed that he (the theif) was a very bad man, the miners collected and came very near hanging him but finally let him go, advising him never to return to "these diggin's" if he valued his life.<ANCHOR ID="n30">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30">Charles H. Shinn's book, <HI REND="italics">Mining Camps: A Study of American Frontier Government</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This evening Cousin Thos. A Hutchins arrived from the "Mokeluma."  He and Josiah are talking of going to Oregon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">11</HI>
072.sgm:<P>After a long consultation, Josiah and Thomas have started for Oregon, with the intention of trading or farming.  Josiah takes all the ready cash (some $1300.), leaving me here with a stock of goods to the amount of $550. to close out by the 1 May, when I am to follow them.  At Sacramento Josiah bought a few articles for the store which arrived by Mr Humphries team.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Samuel Adams of N Chelmsford, Mass. arrived here today; he had some idea of going to Oregon with Josiah but was too late.  He will now remain with me on a visit.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I have received a letter from Josiah stating that he had arrived at San Francisco and should leave for Oregon by the first vessel.  I enjoy the company of Mr Adams as I should be alone were it not for him.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Mr Stone and myself have just concluded a bargain, viz, I am to give our tent, counters, scales, empty boxes, barrells, &amp;c. for a house owned by him in San Francisco on Vallejo St.  Said house is about 14 x 18, built of boards, with a single roof.  Besides the house there is a Mohagany counter, cooking stove, &amp;c.  The ground does not go with it, but belongs to James Lick, who is to receive $15. per month ground-rent.<ANCHOR ID="n31">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: The conditions of the sale are that I am to vacate the store May 1st, and he is to pay the groundrent up to Apr 25.  Accordingly we passed deeds to that effect.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31">James Lick (1796-1876) had arrived in California in 1848 with a small fortune which he invested in land, and subsequently grew very wealthy with the increase in property values.  Upon his death he became famous because of his bequests to various scientific, charitable, and educational enterprises.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the afternoon Mr Stone sold the store to Holt &amp; Lowe for $200.  He has already sold his store and stock of goods to Holt &amp; Lowe, and is now engaged in settling up his business.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">March-April 1851<LB>27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Today Mr Stone left "Long Bar" for the States.  He carried letters and money for several of the miners here to their friends <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">31</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Samuel Adams has gone down to Marysville toseek employment, having made me a very pleasant visit.  Trade is very brisk, the rainy season having set in anew.  I have the store full of boarders and lodgers, getting $12. per week for board and $2.50 for lodging.  I bought a ton of Flour of "Bancroft" for $105.  I get letters from home regularly.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">April 15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Am very busy in collecting debts, settling, &amp;c.  Mr Jacob C. Brown of Iowa assists me.  Sold my Quicksilver flasks for .75 cts each.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>A man charged with stealing ran into Dr Hagers "Drug Store," went behind the counter, seized a two ounce vial of "Laudenum," and swallowed the contents before any one could interfere.  A powerful emetic was immediately administered, so that he recovered, and had his trial.  A verdict of "Not Guilty" was rendered.</p><P>I have but little stock left, but that being unsalable, sells very slowly.  I am boarding at "Uncle Jeffs House."</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">30</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Two days ago I got out written handbills, stating my intention to close out my stock at auction today.  Accordingly at 11 A.M. the sale commenced, Mr Cady of N York acting as auctioneer, and Jas A. French of Mass as Clerk.  A tolerable good attendence was present, but goods sold very low.  However I closed out, and now have nothing to detain me here except collecting a few bills.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">May, 1851<LB>4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I have settled all up that I can but find $100. worth of bad debts.  Early this morning I left "Long bar" having bid adieu to friends and hallowed associations.  I took passage on an ox team for Marysville where I arrived at 2 P. M. and put up at the Eureka Hotel.  Deposited my dust with Messrs Cunningham &amp; Brumagim, Bankers.<ANCHOR ID="n32">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I found Kimball Webster of Hudson, N H. and Mr Carleton of Dracutt Mass here and had a very pleasant time with them.<ANCHOR ID="n33">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I became acquainted with them at "Long Bar."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n32">The banking house of Lewis Cunningham and Mark Brumagim, east side D Street between First and Second, was founded in 1850 and had a continuous existence, though under changing names and ownership, down to 1932.  <HI REND="italics">Marysville City Directory</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n33">Webster was a member of the Granite State and California Mining and Trading Company organized in Boston in March 1849.  This party of twenty-nine men had come overland from Independence, Missouri, to the Sacramento Valley (May 3-October 13, 1849).  He returned to his home in New Hampshire the latter part of August 1854.  Kimball Webster, <HI REND="italics">The Gold Seekers of '49; A Personal Narrative of the Overland Trail and Adventures in California and Oregon from 1849 to 1854</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Received a letter from Portland Oregon stating that he [Josiah] had arrived there in the Brig <HI REND="italics">Grecian</HI>
072.sgm: in 12 days from San Francisco, and that he &amp; Thomas were then preparing to go to the Oregon Mines.  They paid $50. passage to Portland.</p><P>At 6 P.M. while standing at the Steamboat landing, the steamer <HI REND="italics">Fashion</HI>
072.sgm: from San Francisco came in.  When within hailing distance the Capt shouted to the assembled multitude that "San Francisco was in ashes," that "$10 000 000. worth of property was destroyed by fire on the night of May 3d."  The effect produced upon that crowd was so powerful as to be worth noticing.  Some shouted, some groaned, some cried, "I am ruined," some seemed completely bewildered, some ran one way &amp; some another; but all felt that a great calamity had befallen California.<ANCHOR ID="n34">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34">This, the fifth and greatest, fire in the early history of San Francisco razed twenty or twenty-two square blocks causing damage estimated at between ten and twelve million dollars.  The entire business district between Pine and Broadway and from Dupont to Battery streets was destroyed in a single night.  Within ten days fully one-fifth of the number of destroyed buildings were again fit for habitation and business, or were fast approaching that condition.  Nothing was more miraculous than the way in which the city rose phoenix-like from its ashes after each of these holocausts.  <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francisco</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Got my money from the banker's and took passage in Steamer <HI REND="italics">Jack Hays</HI>
072.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n35">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: for Sacramento, where I arrived at 3 P.M., when I took passage to San Francisco in Steamer <HI REND="italics">Wilson G. Hunt</HI>
072.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n36">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n35">Built in 1849, this 31-tonner was the former <HI REND="italics">Commodore Jones</HI>
072.sgm:.  Jerry MacMullen, <HI REND="italics">Paddle-Wheel Days in California</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36">Side-wheel steamboat, 450 tons, the <HI REND="italics">Wilson G. Hunt</HI>
072.sgm: is said to have made a million dollars in her first year in California and had a long career on the Columbia River, Puget Sound, and San Francisco Bay until she was broken up in 1890.  Ibid., pp. 20, 49 (picture), 50, 53, 141; <HI REND="italics">Lewis &amp; Dryden's Marine History of the Pacific Northwest</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At daylight I went ashore, and what a scene met my view!  Two thirds of the city in ashes including all the most beautiful and prominent buildings, with here and there a chimney or portion of a wall standing as a monument to the departed.  As a great part of the city was built out in the bay, (or what was the bay), on piles, for acres around these burnt timbers looked like a timber swamp burnt off, and the streets being planked were so mutilated, if not entirely consumed, as to be almost impassible.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>And while the stifling smoke was still pouring upwards, from the smouldering ruins and fallen timbers, workman were engaged in erecting small "places of business" for those who had been so uncerimoniously turned out of their Mercantile palaces, and commodious warehouses, showing that "Yankee energy" was not parilized by even such a stroke of fortune.  Some had already erected buildings and were now engaged in buying and selling as actively as ever.</p><P>I left my "dust" at Moffat &amp; Co's Mint for coinage (1583 dwts).<ANCHOR ID="n37">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Found my house in as good condition as could be expected, but the value of it is trifling.  I tried to find the owner of the land, but after a long, unfruitful search gave it up.  Saw the sch'r <HI REND="italics">Merchantman</HI>
072.sgm: advertised for Oregon.<ANCHOR ID="n38">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Went on board to ascertain the price of passage, but the Capt offered me $35. per month to go as cabin boy with him, which I accepted on the condition that I am to be discharged at Portland.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n37">A private assaying and banking concern on the southeast corner of Clay and Dupont streets.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
072.sgm:, VI, 183 <HI REND="italics">n</HI>
072.sgm:.  In another place Bancroft says that the bankers of San Francisco had agreed in April 1851, during a panic period, to receive on deposit no coin other than that issued by Moffat &amp; Company, who were the only ones faithful in their valuation.  <HI REND="italics">California Inter Pocula</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n38">A coasting vessel that in 1858 at the time of the Fraser River gold rush carried 200 passengers north from San Francisco on her first trip.  <HI REND="italics">Lewis &amp; Dryden</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Having given the charge of my house to "E. L. Morgan &amp; Co" until my return, I entered upon my duties as Cabin boy.  The schooner is ready for sea, only waiting for a fair wind.  The crew consist of 6 sailors and the Cook, and in the cabin there is the Capt (E L Beard) the 1st &amp; 2d Mates, Mr DeWitt (the owner) two passengers, and myself.  In the afternoon the sch'r hauled out into the stream.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Set sail and commenced beating out of the harbor, with the tide in our favor.  When just under the headland of the north side of the harbor, the wind died away, while the tide swept us down onto the rocks off Pt Lobos, where she struck very heavily.  She lay thumping and beating for some time so that we could not stand on deck, the Capt cursing and shouting, and so frightened that he could do nothing, but at length a flaw of wind came and drove the sch'r between two of the principal rocks, a passage not 4 feet wider than the sch'r.  We drifted a mile or two farther and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:then came to anchor.  Had the anchor been dropped when she first commenced drifting there would have been no difficulty.</p><P>On examination we found the rudder nearly wrenched off, so that it hung by only one pintle.  The timbers and planking were also started, although she did not leak very badly, but it was found necessary to return to port to repair, and as the rudder was so out of order the Capt thought it impossible to sail her up.  Accordingly Mr DeWitt the mate &amp; 4 Sailors took a boat and went up to the City to send down a Steamer to our relief.</p><P>In the meantime signals of distress were hoisted, but no vessels came in sight.  At noon it came on to blow quite hard, and the anchor commenced dragging, each wave sending us nearer and nearer a long line of dangerous rocks which were now less than a mile distant; and as a last resort, the Capt ordered all sail to be set, which was a long and severe task for 5 persons, so that when the anchor was up, and we were fairly under way, the rocks were but a short distance under our lee, the waves about them hissing and roaring, and dashing high in the air as they came in contact, warning us of our fate if the sch'r had struck them.  The Schooner barely held her way, in a parellel line with these rocks, under a heavy press of canvas, and we feared each moment, that the rudder would give way, under the powerful strain that was forced upon it.  But at length we rounded by the last rock, and headed up the bay and met the boat coming down to our assistance.  Came to anchor for the night off Clarks Point.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Got under and ran up to Rincon Point, where we ran ashore at high tide so that "she" is high and dry at low water.  A gang of carpenters came to work on the vessel calking, &amp;c, besides taking the rudder away to repair it.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">May-June, 1851<LB>31</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The repairs are finished and the vessel is in good order.  Hauled out into the stream, ready for sailing with the first favorable wind, when the crew and 2 mates left.  The Capt shipped a new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June 2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Early in the morning set sail with a light wind, and the tide in our favor.  As we got down near the "fort" in tacking, the sch'r "missed stays" and got within the vessel's length of the rocks before the anchor could be let go.<ANCHOR ID="n39">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Soon after, got under weigh for Saucileto where we remained for the night.<ANCHOR ID="n40">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n39">Since "to stay" in nautical terminology is the same as "to tack," which is to bring the ship's head up to the wind for going about, "to miss stays" is to fail in an attempt to go about.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n40">Saucelito was a more common spelling than Sausalito from the time of the American occupation until after 1900.  In 1870, when the post office was established, the spelling Saucelito was conferred upon the town.  Erwin G. Gudde, <HI REND="italics">California Place Names</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Put to sea early with the ebb-tide and tried to get outside, but could not, so put back to Saucileto to anchor for the night.  We begin to think that some strange fatality attends this vessel, or that the Capt does not understand his business.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Got under way, and finally succeeded in getting outside.  Put to sea, with a light head wind making a course W. by S.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">10</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We have had a succession of calms and light head winds.  At noon "tacked ship" and stood N. E. by N.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the morning came in sight of land and stood in for it, but mistook Killinook head, for Cape Disappointment so that we were obliged to beat up some 30 miles.<ANCHOR ID="n41">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n41">Stephen meant Tillamook Head, thirty miles to the south of the entrance to the Columbia.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Took a Pilot from the <HI REND="italics">Mary Taylor</HI>
072.sgm: and lay off until flood tide.  Spoke the Bark <HI REND="italics">Culloma</HI>
072.sgm:, Capt Corning, 144 days from N York for Portland.  Also spoke the Bark <HI REND="italics">Keoka</HI>
072.sgm: from Portland to San Francisco, as she came out of the river.  We also saw the Bark <HI REND="italics">Louisana</HI>
072.sgm: from San Francisco, going into the river.  At noon entered the mouth of the river, and at 4 P.M. came to anchor at Astoria.  The passage through the mouth of the river is very narrow and intricate and a great many vessels are lost here anually, and also many lives.  I saw the remnants of old hulks, two of which were U.S. Vessels of war, lying about this dangerous place.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">23</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Capt "entered" the sch'r at the custom house.  Took a river pilot and proceeded up the Columbia river with a fair wind passing the curious "pyramid rock," &amp;c.  The banks of this river are covered with a dense growth of fir and pine, which is now being sawed into lumber, and shipped to San Francisco.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Ran aground on a shoal, and although every exertion was made to "kedge off" we were unsuccessful.<ANCHOR ID="n42">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Bought 5 large Salmon of an Indian for a small blanket.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n42">This was an attempt to warp or pull the ship by means of a kedge, a small auxiliary anchor taken out in a small boat, dropped, and hauled against.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Steamer <HI REND="italics">Williamette</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Steamer <HI REND="italics">Williamette</HI>
072.sgm: came along side and hauled the sch'r into deep water, when we set sail and kept running all night.  Saw the Brig <HI REND="italics">Anne E. Maine</HI>
072.sgm: and the Bark <HI REND="italics">Mary Melville</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">28</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 2 P.M. came to anchor at Portland, where we were saluted by the owners &amp; consignees by a discharge of cannon.  I went ashore and found letters from Josiah, the latest one being from the Shasta Mines, and was not very encouraging.<ANCHOR ID="n43">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I learnt from a man here, that he had returned from the mines and had now gone down to Milton.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n43">Travelers, noting the similarity of geologic structure to the California gold regions in the northern part of Oregon and beyond the Siskiyou range, had begun prospecting as early as 1850 in the Umpqua Valley where there was some success for a time.  In 1851 the rich Rogue River diggings were discovered and in various places in the Shasta Valley gold was also found.  Earlier, in the summer of 1850, gold was located near the present town of Yreka, California, on the Shasta River, but the party of discoverers was driven back south by the hostile Pit River Indians.  Hubert Howe Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of Oregon</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I got my discharge from the schooner, and while storing my baggage previously to starting for Milton, Josiah very unexpectedly came down to the vessel and hailed me.  He was so sunburnt and otherwise altered in appearance that I scarcely knew him.  While on his return he &amp; Thomas was in a severe fight with Indians but at length arrived safe.  They think of returning to California.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Josiah, Thomas &amp; I took a boat that belong to them and rowed up to an Island above Milwakie, where we went ashore.<ANCHOR ID="n44">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Cooked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:our dinner which consisted of Bacon &amp; Bread and Coffee by a fire of twigs and leaves and partook of it from the grassy turf with as much satisfaction as though it were a most gorgeous feast.  We then came back and saw a sunday school celebration, Steamboat excursion &amp;c.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n44">Milwaukie was up the Willamette River a few miles from Portland.  Founded in 1847, it was named after Milwaukee, Wisconsin, the spelling of which varied in the early days.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Josiah &amp; Thomas have engaged to work their passage to San Francisco in the Sch'r <HI REND="italics">Alert</HI>
072.sgm: which will sail in a few days.<ANCHOR ID="n45">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: In the meantime they are at work cutting wood, &amp;c, at about $4. per day.  I have concluded to remain in the <HI REND="italics">Merchantman</HI>
072.sgm: until we arrive at San Francisco, the Capt being very anxious for me to do so, and has increased my wages.  My work is not very hard, but very vexatious, to attend to the wants of a nervous and illnatured Capt.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n45">Not the ship <HI REND="italics">Alert</HI>
072.sgm: of Richard Henry Dana, Jr., but a Pacific Coast schooner that carried passengers to the Fraser River diggings in 1858 and engaged in sealing some ten years later under the command of captains William Spring and Hugh McKay.  Spring was the pioneer of modern sealers.  <HI REND="italics">Lewis &amp; Dryden</HI>
072.sgm:<P>While in the outskirts of this so called "city" I measured a fallen tree that was 320 feet in length, 5 feet in diameter at the butt, and 2 feet in diameter within 20 feet of the top, and in this 300 intervening feet there was not a knot or defect.  These trees are burnt down by boring a hole through the butt, and setting fire to the pitch as it oozes out, which finally consumes the whole circumference.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Alert</HI>
072.sgm: (with Josiah &amp; Thomas on board) was towed down to Milton to take on a deck load.</p><P>A short time ago the Capt was arrested for cruel treatment to the cook, and in the trial I was brought up as witness for plaintif.  The Capt was fined $5, and costs.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Finished discharging cargo, and ran up to Captain Baker's place "La Roche" to load with lumber.</p><P>A few days ago as one of the sailors was swung over the "shore" side of the vessel painting, he fell off the staging into the water, and although his body was recovered in 4 minutes, life was extinct.  It being a hot day, it is supposed that he was sun-struck.  He was buried without any ceremony, by the Schooner's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July-August, 1851<LB>Aug. 3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The mate, cook, one sailor, and myself took the quarter boat and went up to Oregon City after the Capt.<ANCHOR ID="n46">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: We were obliged to get out, and drag the boat over the rapids which are very troublesome.  In coming down the Capt took the tiller, and as we were dashing down the rapids, the mate saw that we were going directly on to a "buoy" that is anchored here.  The Capt did not notice it, when the mate sprang to the stern, jerked the Capt from the tiller, put it "hard aport" and shouted to me (as I pulled the bow oar), "Pull Stephen for Gods sake pull or we are lost," and the next instant we scraped by the huge timber with such a velocity, that now I shudder when I think of it.  Had we came in contact with it (as we came very near doing) the boat would have been upset, and in such a current I fear we should have found watery graves.  Not long since the Capt had a large party of Ladies &amp; Gentlemen take dinner with him on board the "Schooner."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n46">Oregon City on the Williamette River in Clackamas County was laid out and named in 1842 by Dr. John McLoughlin, chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company.  In the correspondence of the Methodist mission established there in 1843, it was often referred to as Willamette, or Willamette Falls.  Lewis A. McArthur, <HI REND="italics">Oregon Geographic Names</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Sch'r came down to Portland to complete loading at Coffins Upper Steam Mills.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I went on a blackberry excursion a few days ago, and returned well pleased, and quite successful.  Today we have finished loading the sch'r and expect to sail tommorrow.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">13</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The steamer <HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
072.sgm: towed us down to the Columbia river last night where we anchored.  This morning commenced beating down the river and at noon arrived at St. Helens, where we came to anchor.  The Capt went up to Milton in a boat and returned at 2 P.M., just as the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Lot Whitcomb</HI>
072.sgm: hove in sight.  So the anchor was hove up, and we were taken in tow by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:the Steamer.  Soon afterwards the Bark <HI REND="italics">Culloma</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">14</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I went ashore here and found quite a rural city of som[e] 2 or 300 inhabitants.  However there is nothing very enticing or calculated to interest a stranger.  The "barracks" contain about 80 Soldiers.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Took a pilot from the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
072.sgm: and put to sea in company with the <HI REND="italics">Sea Gull</HI>
072.sgm: steamship.  Met the Brig <HI REND="italics">Anne E. Maine</HI>
072.sgm: coming in from San Francisco.  Outside the "bar" we found light head winds, with signs of foul weather.  At 4 P.M. spoke the Brig <HI REND="italics">O</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Since last date we have had a severe storm, and head winds all the time.  The vessel has rolled so that we can keep nothing secure.  There are two Cabin passengers on board.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This morning as we are running in towards the land made Point Reyes only one mile distant.  There was a dense fog at the time or we should have seen this high land sooner.  Soon after a Pilot boat spoke us but we took no pilot, although we ascertained the course to be E. by S.  At noon entered the "Golden Gate" and at 3 oclock came to anchor off Clarks Point.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Got under way and ran up to Commercial Wharf where the cargo is to be discharged.<ANCHOR ID="n47">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I went to the Post Office and found 5 letters from Josiah, the last of which states that he is at Sac City.  Tried to get my discharge but the Capt refused at present.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n47">Wharves had been started as early as 1849 to accommodate steam vessels, and to assist in loading and unloading passengers and cargo.  By October 1850 Long Wharf was 2,000 ft. long; Market Street Wharf, 600 ft.; California Street, 400 ft. long by 32 ft. wide; Cunningham's Wharf, 375 ft. long with a T at its end 330 ft. long by 30 ft. wide.  The cost of these and other wharves had been more than a million and a half dollars and they provided nearly two miles of artificial streets.  <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francisco</HI>
072.sgm:, pp. 291-292.  The largest of all these wharves was Long Wharf at the end of Commercial Street, which reached nearly a mile into the bay by October of 1850.  It had cost two hundred thousand dollars.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sept</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Capt paid me this morning and then I went to see my house and found that the receipts just paid the expenses.  I took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:dinner on board the Sch'r, when the Capt urged me strongly to remain with him, but I steadfastly refused.  At 4 P.M. took the Steamer <HI REND="italics">West Point</HI>
072.sgm: for Sacramento.<ANCHOR ID="n48">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n48">Side-wheel steamboat, 240 tons, built in 1849 in New York and sent around Cape Horn for the gold rush trade on the California rivers.  She was afterward sent to Hawaii and was wrecked on the coast of Kauai in 1856.  John Haskell Kemble, "Pioneer Hawaiian Steamers, 1852-1877," <HI REND="italics">Hawaiian Historical Society, Fifty-Third Annual Report for the Year 1944</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Early in the morning I arrived at "Sac City" and found Josiah just going to his work.  He is at work discharging vessels getting from 6 to $7. per day, and he lives on board the Bark <HI REND="italics">Coosa</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Having settled with Josiah, I went down to San Francisco in Steamer <HI REND="italics">Major Thompkins</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I bought a draft for $300. on Adams &amp; co<ANCHOR ID="n49">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: and sent it to Mary S. Davis Groton Mass.<ANCHOR ID="n50">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I then went to White &amp; Storm's and found a box of scythes had just arrived by ship <HI REND="italics">Scargo</HI>
072.sgm: for us that we ordered 9 or 10 months ago.  I left them with this firm, on sale.  I also got the returns of the "dust" I left at the mint some 6 months ago and found that it yielded about $17.75 per ounce.  At 4 P.M. took passage on the <HI REND="italics">Major Thompkins</HI>
072.sgm: for Sacramento.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n49">Adams &amp; Company had opened in June 1850 in San Francisco.  For a discussion of banks see <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francisco</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n50">Josiah's wife.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Arrived safe and found Josiah well.  I live with him on the <HI REND="italics">Coosa</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">14</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I am taken sick with dysentary today, so that I am not able to walk.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">17</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night it rained, so that it wet through our blankets, and we had a very disagreable time of it.  I have become so reduced that I can hardly stand.  I dare not eat any thing, for it makes me worse; and now the disease has got a very strong hold of me.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I am weaker, and as I can eat nothing, am in a very bad situation.  Discharges of blood are very frequent and profuse.  Josiah has gone to Marysville as boatman and will return in about a week, so that I am left alone to wait upon myself, and if I want any medicine or anything, I have to go 1/2 mile for it, although Josiah is not to blame for it, as I told him not to remain on my account.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last Sunday I was able to attend the Baptist Church, but today am so feeble that I am obliged to lie on deck nearly all day, groaning and suffering from disease.  I fear that I shall never see the friends at home again, and try to prepare myself for this great and last change.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The disease seems to be abating slowly, so that I am a little more comfortable.  I eat a great many tomatoes which seem to relish, and are as harmless as anything.  At noon, Josiah arrived from Marysville after a pleasant trip.  We are talking of going home and at length after a hasty consultation, we have concluded to go.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Picked up our baggage and settled up business previous to starting for the States.  Took passage on board Steamer <HI REND="italics">New World</HI>
072.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n51">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: for Benicia, where we arrived at 7 P.M., and having spread our blankets on the wharf, where we had a fine nights rest beneath the clear blue sky, and the "bright silver moon.<ANCHOR ID="n52">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n51">This was the famous "stolen steamboat."  Debt-ridden after being built in New York, she escaped the sheriff's men and steamed around the Horn, picking up 300 passengers for California on the way.  Put into service on the Sacramento in August 1850, the <HI REND="italics">New World</HI>
072.sgm: was a favorite until finally broken up in 1879.  She was a 530-ton side-wheeler of regal appointment and long held the speed record for the San Francisco-Sacramento run with her time of 7 hrs. 5 mins. upriver and 5 hrs. 35 mins. down.  <HI REND="italics">Paddle-Wheel Days</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n52">The base of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company was at Benicia, and it was here that their vessels were cleaned, refitted, and repaired after discharging passengers and cargo at San Francisco.  Land was cheaper at Benicia than at San Francisco and deep water came right up to the beach.  Here the P. M. S. S. Company maintained extensive machine shops and repair facilities, coal supplies, etc., just as they did at their southern terminus on Taboga Island.  <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Went on board the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
072.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n53">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: and upon application to the Capt (R. H. Pierson) we obtained situations on board, to work our passages to Panama.  Brought our baggage on board and were put on duty--Josiah as "deck hand" and I as stearage steward.  In the evening took a walk over the town.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n53">Wooden side-wheel steamer of 1,099 tons built in 1848 for the Pacific Mail Steamship Company and in regular use between San Francisco and Panama until 1855.  Ibid., pp. 239-240.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 4 A.M. got up steam, and proceeded down to San Francisco, where we arrived at 10 oclock along side Long Wharf.  Josiah &amp; I are engaged in scrubbing and cleaning.  In the evening Josiah <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">30</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Went to see Messrs "E. L. Morgan &amp; Co" in regard to the house.  Also got my money from Moffats &amp; Co's mint and deposited it with the purser for safe keeping to Panama.</p><P>After an absence of 13 1/2 months from home &amp; friends we are about to return to the land of our nativity.  What bright anticipations of hearty welcomes and joyful greetings fill our hearts now on the eve of our departure.  During this absence I have situated so as to attend worship only 4 times.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Oct. 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This being the day for sailing about 400 passengers, (mostly rough uncouth looking miners) came on board, and also about 80 Mail bags, and about $1,200,000 in "Gold dust."  At 4 P.M. after firing a salute, we left the wharf, amid the cheering of our passengers and assembled thousands on the wharf; but the weather being very foggy, the Steamer came to anchor at Saucileto for the night.<ANCHOR ID="n54">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: The work of the Stearage waiters is very laborious, there being 350 stearage passengers and only 8 waitors to attend them.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n54">The feverish excitement of Steamer Day at the beginning and middle of each month received more than ten pages in the <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francisco</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 5 A.M. hove up anchor and put to sea, with fine weather and very smooth sea.  Today the chief steward ordered me in the first cabin, so that my duties are much lighter and more agreable, my occupation being to wait upon 5 persons at the table.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 4 P.M. came to at Monterey to exchange mails and land passengers.  Was detained about an hour, and then put to sea on our course.  Fine weather.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Entered the harbor of San Diego to exchange mails.  Took on board 4 bullocks, which were swam off from the shore (2 miles distant), and then hauled on board by a rope around their horns.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">October, 1851<LB>10</HI>
072.sgm:<P>For the last 3 days, we have been running along only 2 or 3 miles distant from the shore, which is still covered with the deep green verdure of Spring, while the mountains in the background rearing their lofty peaks above the clouds, severed by roaring torrents or clear running streams, shaded by beautiful trees of tropical growth, and fanned by a gentle breeze presenting a panoramic view not to be excelled.  Occasionally a valley with its thick growth of bannanna, orange and cocoa trees sent forth its delicious perfume, making our voyage thus far, one continued scene of interest and pleasure.</p><P>At 7 P.M. came in sight of the Sugar-loaf peaks, which are the landmarks of Acapulco, (being a few miles to the Northward of this port), and at 11 P.M. came to anchor in this beautiful land-locked harbor.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">11</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Commenced taking in coal and water, from an old store-ship.  Great numbers of boats came off from shore with all kinds of tropical fruits for sale, shells, liquors, &amp;c, and little boys swam off from shore, who dove to the bottom after the dimes and quarters thrown into the clear placid waters of the bay by the passengers, to see the sport of a dozen or more of these "semi-aquatics" darting about and diving, to the great amusement of all concerned.  Sharks 8 or 10 ft in length were swiming about, apparently unmindful of these dusky bipeds, when if a white man had attempted this trick, he would have got "taken in" without fail.  I sold two dozen bottles (empty) for 150 limes, some of which I carried home.  At 7 P.M. hove up anchor and put to sea.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">14</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fine weather and smooth sea.  My living is excellent, being the same as is served to Cabin passengers.  But Josiah living the same as the Stearage passengers fares on rusty salt meats, and very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Doubled "Point Mala" last night, and at noon passed "Taboga Island" where lay the Steamships <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
072.sgm: (just arrived from N York in 54 days), and the <HI REND="italics">Carolina</HI>
072.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
072.sgm: from San Francisco, who answered our salute.<ANCHOR ID="n55">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: At 1 P.M. came to anchor at Panama.  This old Spanish town looks very natural although I have not seen it for more than a year.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n55">Taboga was the southern base of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company.  Lying some twelve miles out in the Gulf of Panama from Panama City, it was comparatively cooler than the mainland and had an abundant supply of spring water for the ships.  Because of the heavy tides, vessels could run in close to the beach at high water and be left dry on the sand when the tide receded, making it possible to clean and repair bottoms without building a dry dock.  In 1855 Flamenco Island, more convenient to the city, was purchased by the Pacific Mail for use as an operating base.  <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The vessel was soon surrounded by boats, whose owners were fighting, swearing and scolding in Spanish creating an awful din.  Stewards, waiters, sailors and all hands were placed in a line from the treasure room to the gang-way, and in this way the "Dust" was passed on board a large sloop which carries the mail also.  Thus I handled the whole of the precious metal, which I afterwards learnt to be about $2,250,000.</p><P>We went ashore in the Specie boat but owing to the tide, were oblidged to lay off 2 or 3 hours before we could come up to the market gate when we took our baggage to the Plaza House where we remained for the night.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Left our baggage at the transportation office of Mosquero, Hurtado, &amp; Co to be sent to Cruces, for which we pay 8 cts per lb; and at 9 A.M. started on foot in company with two men from Staten Island for Cruces.  It being late in the rainy season, the road is a complete mudhole, so deep and sticky as to render walking very laborious.  But we pushed on, passing travellers on foot and Mule-back until noon, when having arrived at the American House, kept by two ladies, we took dinner which consisted of beans and very "powerful" ham, without bread or potatoes, for which we paid $1. each.</p><P>We started on, passing through the narrow deep cuts, over-taking those who started 4 hours in advance of us; but finally we were compelled to slack our pace, the mud being about 3 feet deep on an average.  We pressed on however, and although one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:of our comrades became so exhausted as to almost faint, we assisted him along and at dusk had the pleasure of passing the most forward travellers who were on mules, and soon after arrived at Cruces--the first from Panama today.  Went down to the river and washed our clothes and blistered feet, and then secured a bed (i.e. a chance to lay on a floor, made of the stalks of the Suger Cane, without any bedding of any kind), at the "Strangers House."</p><P>Others soon came in so besmeared with mud and with such "woe-begone" countenances, that one would not beleive that their pockets were lined with gold, as many of them were.  As for myself, I am certain I never performed such <HI REND="italics">severe exercise</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Arose and found ourselves so stiff and sore that without the aid of two canes I could not walk, and I find a great many in my condition.  At 5 P.M. our baggage arrived in good condition.  Josiah is quite lame in consequence of yesterdays "Jaunt."  Frequent showers occur every day, so that we remain in doors most of the time.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 7 A.M. started down the river in company with 7 others in a whale boat.  There is a very strong current so that we go very fast.  Hauled up for a few moments at Gorgona, then went on, meeting a great many boats loaded with passengers who were on their way to California.  Their enquires in regard to the "gold diggin's" were numerous and amusing.</p><P>At noon stopt at a ranch where all but myself took dinner after which they paid $1. each for it, and were coming down to the boat, when the landlord (a Jamacia Negro) came running down after us, and said that Josiah had not paid for his dinner.  I and several others told him that we had seen Josiah pay him, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:he refused to listen to us, and with a drawn sword told Josiah that he should pay or ...  At the same time another darkey came down to us, armed with a rifle, with the intention of riddling some of us, if Josiah did not pay a second time.  I got so enraged that I told Josiah not to pay, let the consequences be what they might; but as our party had no arms, he said it was better to lose a dollar than to get into trouble.  So we left with no very benevolent feelings for our landlord, and with a determination not to be caught in such a fix again without arms.  In this case, if I had had a pistol, I should have <HI REND="italics">used it</HI>
072.sgm:.</p><P>At 6 P.M. arrived at Chagres and after paying $5. for our passage, put up at the "Irving House."</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We find the Steamship <HI REND="italics">Cherokee</HI>
072.sgm: in port, but we cannot get passage on her, she being full.  While standing on the levee this morning, a negro came up in his boat alongside the newly painted boat of a white man, rubbing and chafing it badly, which somewhat enraged the owner, so that from words they came to blows, and in this, the negro seemed to get the worst of it.  Upon which he jumped into his boat and took from its hiding place a long heavy cutlass, which seemed to be a signal, for immediately all the black boatman (som[e] 150 in number) did the same and jumped out onto the levee at this white man, who ran, and they after him.<ANCHOR ID="n56">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: The blacks acted like mad men, yelling, shouting, threatening the life of every white man, brandishing their weapons, &amp;c. But soon the "Alcalde" came up, and dispersed the bloodthirsty wretches.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n56">An unsigned letter from the <HI REND="italics">Panama Star</HI>
072.sgm: of October 24, 1851, reprinted in the San Francisco newspapers, indicated that the Boatmen's Club of Chagres claimed the exclusive right to transport emigrants to and from the American steamers.  This "closed shop" was not recognized by the natives of Chagres or by the Negro boatmen from Jamaica and San Domingo who were also eager to have a share of the lucrative small boat business.  A postscript from the <HI REND="italics">Panama Herald</HI>
072.sgm: was appended, considerably more grisly than the truth, in which twenty or thirty Americans and perhaps seventy or eighty natives were reported killed.  The <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
072.sgm: deplored such lurid sensationalism.  See the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Daily Herald</HI>
072.sgm:, Nov. 18, 1851, p. 2; San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Daily Alta California</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the afternoon about 200 of them came over the river in their boats armed with muskets, pistols, swords--landed on the American side--and marched through the streets shouting "war," "Murder," &amp;c.<ANCHOR ID="n57">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: When they arrived at the American Consul's office they riddled the door, which was closed and bolted, with 30 or 40 bullets, and then shot two Americans standing by--one in the leg, and the other in the head--severly.  After doing some other damage they retired to their own side of the river.  During <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:this affray the Stores were all closed, and the "returning Californians" were standing about looking on, being desirous to keep out of trouble as long as possible, but ready to take part in the quarrel when circumstances should really demand it.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n57">In <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">23</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The first thing this morning was to form a volunteer company of those who had revolvers, to protect the town from such gross insults as were perpetrated yesterday, and also to arrest and punish the murderers of the two Americans.</p><P>In the meantime boatman were engaged in carying out passengers to the Steamship <HI REND="italics">Cherokee</HI>
072.sgm: and the two blacks who killed the Americans were recognized on the levee.  So the Capt ordered 10 of his men, armed with Revolvers, to arrest them.  While performing their duty, the whole black population commenced firing at the whites, upon which the whole company came out and fired upon the blacks who now took to their boats to escape the terrible fire of Colts revolvers.  I should think that 150 shots were fired in 3 minutes by the whites, and I presume 1/2 of them were effectual, as the distance was but a few feet.  And as the blacks pulled off in their boats, I could see them drop their oar, and fall back in the boat apparently lifeless, while others, when shot, would utter a piercing scream and with a spasmodic effort, leap clear out of the boat into the river, which now assumed a reddish hue, while here and there dead bodies were floating, and also those who were struggling apparently in the last agonies of death.  The skill of the whites had done terrible execution, while the rusty horse-pistols and muskets had wounded but 2 or 3 whites, in the hands of the blacks.  When these boats arrived on the other side, the women who had come down to meet their husbands found that many of their number were widdows, upon which they set up a loud mournful wail which was distressing to hear.</p><P>Some 8 or 10 Americans who were on the black's side of the river at this time were most inhumanly butchered by the exasperated blacks who seemed to be thirsting for blood.  One of these Americans was an Auctioneer on J St in Sac City, and came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:down on the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
072.sgm: on his way home to Tenn.  He was on the bank of the river when two blacks came up to him with drawn sabres, but he seeing them, ran out into the river as far as he could wade and called on us Americans for help!  Help!!  Help!!!  But we could not save him, for a few seconds after, these two black wretches came up, and one of them hit him a terrible cut between the neck and shoulder, while the other cut his body nearly half way in two, and then went off.  The wounded man managed to crawl ashore, where he lay down on the bank as one dead.  He was alive 3 or 4 days afterwards when I saw him, although terribly mangled.</p><P>The boats that left the levee for the <HI REND="italics">Cherokee</HI>
072.sgm: with passengers were scenes of terrible conflict.  It is said that one boat load of passengers some 10 or 12 were murrdered by the black boatmen and on other boats several were killed and wounded.  And then the cruel wretches seemed to delight in acts of bloodshed, for after cutting those Americans in peices, they called on us to look and see what they had done, and said farther that they would serve us the same way.  No great consolation!</p><P>The Negro's then went and took possession of the fort on their side of the river, which completely overlooked and commanded the town on the other side.  They mounted two 54 pounders and commenced firing round and double-headed shot down into the town, upon which the merchants and others who had valuables commenced moving them out into the woods, and all the stores, hotels &amp;c were shut up and preperations were made for <HI REND="italics">war</HI>
072.sgm:.  How I wished that I had some weapon, that I need not stand still, as I am now oblidged to.</p><P>As I was standing in the door-way of the Irving house, a bullet came whizzing between me and the door casing and several struck the building.  A few minutes after, a double-headed shot came tearing down through the roof of this Hotel making a tremendous clatter.  It weighed about 60 lbs, and was two feet long.  And while Josiah and I were carrying out our baggage a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:round shot struck in the path we had just trod.  We then went out to a creek about 2 miles north of this place and remained there most of the day--so as to be out of harm's way.</p><P>We found boats running from here through the surf to the <HI REND="italics">Cherokee</HI>
072.sgm: carying passengers, and bringing cannon, ammunition, &amp;c for the use of the whites.  I helped haul this down to town, through the deep sand, and having settled upon a location for it, a breastwork of bales of hay was formed with port-holes to discharge the cannon through.  Then a fire was kept up upon the town, but could not reach the fort, it being at an elevation of about 23&deg;, and the guns being small and almost worthless.</p><P>At 2 P.M. the Steamship <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm: came in and anchored near the <HI REND="italics">Cherokee</HI>
072.sgm: which soon after left.  I went out through the serf to the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm: and found about 700 passengers on board, but few of which came ashore.  Soon after, Capt Shenck of the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm:, the American Consul and the "Alcalde" went over to the blacks side bearing a flag of truce and endeavored to effect a treaty.  But the blacks would not listen to it, so they returned and made preperations for the night.  75 armed men were patrolling the town all night and others were ready at a moments warning to prevent a surprise.</p><P>A boat belonging to the Eng Steam Frigate <HI REND="italics">Medway</HI>
072.sgm:, and manned by Capt Simonds and 4 or 5 men, all in full uniform, with the ensign floating at the stern, is the only boat allowed to pass in and out of the river today.  And she has been engaged in transporting "Gold dust" from the vault on the black's side to the <HI REND="italics">Cherokee</HI>
072.sgm:, and has succeeded in transfering the whole from its dangerous locality.</p><P>This afternoon a Rocky Mountain hunter who came down in the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
072.sgm:, posted himself behind the corner of a house, and with his long, heavy rifle picked off the black rascals who were working the cannon at the fort and doing so much damage to the town.  Although the distance was at least 1/2 mile and at such an elevation, he "brought his man" nearly every time, until about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:a dozen had "fallen," when the rest of the gunners fled from their stations, not fancying the idea of being targets for such a marksman.  The rifle which performed such feats was a very old one, the breech being splintered and bruised, and the barrel, battered, so that it looked more fit for a crow-bar than for a fire arm.  It had seen long continued rough usage, and for this reason was the more highly prized by its owner, who said that he would only part with it with his life.</p><P>At dusk we, in company with some 200 others, went out to the creek and remained for the night.  At 9 P.M. it commenced raining, and continued through the night.  We were oblidged to lay down on the cold wet earth, surrounded by Alligators, Snakes, lizzards and other poisonous reptiles, and could not divest ourselves of the thought that the sable scoundrels might take us all by surprise, and perhaps cut our throats before morning.</p><P>Immediately upon our arrival at Chagres I deposited my money with the landlord of the "Irving House" for safe keeping--and he having sent all his valuables on board the English Steamer during the meelee--I am fearful I shall have trouble in getting hold of it again, thus capping my troubles, so that I probably shall not enjoy a very sound night's rest tonight.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>According to expectation, Josiah, myself or any of our 200 bed-fellows slept very little during the night and at 4 1/2 A.M. we arrose and went down to town, and found everything quiet, and that it had been so nearly all night.  But at Sunrise the Blacks recommenced the firing, which was duly returned, and thus kept up till 10 A.M. when a deputation from both sides met on board the Schooner <HI REND="italics">James Farewell</HI>
072.sgm: (anchored in the middle of the river), to endeavor to settle the difficulty, the firing being stopt on both sides in the meantime by mutual consent.  On board the Sch'r, there was but very little conciliatory feeling among the parties, and their mission seemed to be totally unsuccessful, as the Blacks claimed (in case of making any arrangement) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:damages and priveleges, which were entirely unreasonable.  But Capt Schenck told the black "Commissioners" if they did not immediately come to terms, that he would bring the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm: close up to the fort, batter it down with his cannon, land 500 men armed to the teeth, burn and destroy their town, shoot every black that could be found, &amp;c.  Although he was overrating his power, yet this speech had the effect to bring about an amacable arrangement and peace was concluded at once.</p><P>By the terms of the treaty the Blacks are to evacuate the Fort, and to destroy the bridge that connects it with the mainland, which is the only means of access to it, while all are to resume business as usual, forgive &amp; forget, &amp;c.  So that soon the martial appearance of the place was changed to what we found it a few days ago.  Notwithstanding the treaty, there is great hostility in feeling, which occasionally bursts forth, but with no very serious consequenses.</p><P>This morning as the Iron river steamer <HI REND="italics">Gorgona</HI>
072.sgm: was going out of the mouth of the river she was assailled with a perfect shower of bullets, so that all hands on board were oblidged to shelter themselves "below" until she was beyond the reach of their "leaden rain."<ANCHOR ID="n58">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Also a heavy shot from a cannon in the fort, was discharged at them, but fell in the water beyond the Steamer.  This was before the treaty was concluded.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n58">Iron-hulled steamer built by the Panama Railroad and sent to Chagres to tow barges of materials up the river for use in constructing the railroad.  Ibid., p. 171.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<P>The Hotels, Stores, &amp;c. are now open, vessels are unloading, and everything assumes a business appearance.  In the afternoon I went out to the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm: as oarsman in a boat to bring her freight ashore.  The sea was very rough so that our boat came near swamping.  And when we came alongside the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm:, sometimes a wave would dash us up to her gangway, and the next moment we were under the wheel, and it was only by our most powerful exertions that we took a small cargo and got away safely.  Soon after we started we saw the corpse of a white man with a rope around his neck floating on the "briney deep," but the sea was so rough that we could not attempt to bring him ashore.  And <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">October, 1851<LB>25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This morning the Office is open for the sale of tickets on the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n59">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Price in the Cabin is $100. to N. York and $80. to New Orleans.  Price in Stearage to N York is $60. which rate we paid for our passage.  I got my money from our landlord who fortunately was honest, and had just got it from the Eng Steamer.  I then bought 12 oz "Gold dust" at 16.25 per oz. and at 4 P.M. took passage for the Steamship <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm: in a crazy old boat, and when we got outside found so heavy a sea running that we were in imminent danger of being capsized, but by great exertions arrived on board the Steamer completely drenched, and our baggage in the same condition.  At 7 P.M. the Steamer got under way and put to sea for Havanna.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n59">Wooden side-wheeler of 2,432 tons built at a cost of $450,000 in 1848 for the United States Mail Steamship Company and placed in service between New York and Chagres.  Ibid., p. 239.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This morning at 4 oclock we rounded Cape Antonio, and saw the lighthouse theron, and nearly all day we are running near the coast of this lovely Isle and thus witnessing its charming landscape, and sea coast in this panoramic manner.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">30</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 2 oclock this morning the steamer arrived off the harbor of Havanna, but by a odious Spanish law were detained from entering until Sunrise, when a pilot came out from the City in an open boat rowed by 12 men, took charge of the vessel and soon ran us in past the Moro Castle, (where we were hailed), and in full view of this magnificient City, which is situated on the northern shore of this, the prettiest harbor in the world.</p><P>As this is only a month after the "Lopez Invasion" there is great excitement in consequence, and large bodies of brilliantly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:dressed soldiers are moving to and fro, drilling, &amp;c.<ANCHOR ID="n60">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: As we came into the harbor, I saw a body [of] troops on the flat opposite the "Moro," amounting to several thousands, whose ornamented uniforms glistened in the morning Sun, and who were performing various evolutions to the music of a splendid "brass band," while the huge battlements and heavy fortifications of the "Moro," surmounted by the gorgeous "colors" of "Spain," presented to me a novel and interesting spectacle.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n60">The Lopez filibustering expeditions of April 1850 and August 1851 were armed attempts by Cuban revolutionists and American annexationists, led by a Venezuelan adventurer Narciso Lopez, to free Cuba from Spain.  Both attempts were unsuccessful; the second had been put down by the Spanish troops which Stephen saw drilling, and Lopez and fifty of his followers had been executed.  The spirit of "Manifest Destiny" in the air, the hundreds of restless Mexican War veterans, American speculation in Cuban bonds, as well as the attitude of the United States government all combined to favor Lopez.  Thomas A. Bailey, <HI REND="italics">A Diplomatic History of the American People</HI>
072.sgm: (New York, 1940), pp. 305, 307, 308.  A monograph, R. G. Caldwell's <HI REND="italics">The Lopez Expeditions to Cuba, 1848-1851</HI>
072.sgm: (Princeton, New Jersey, 1915), is cited by Bailey, p. 308 <HI REND="italics">n</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm: proceeded to the opposite of the bay from the city, made fast to a wharf, and commenced coaling.  The Steamship <HI REND="italics">Empire City</HI>
072.sgm: sailed from here for N York at 10 A.M., about which time the Steamship <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">31</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This morning the Steamship <HI REND="italics">Georgia</HI>
072.sgm: arrived from N York, and passengers on the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm: for N Orleans were transfered to that vessel.  I bought 150 Oranges at 1 1/2 cts each, some shells, &amp;c. and at 3 P.M. the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm: put to sea for N York with a fair wind.  The scenery along the coast was magnificient, and also the marine view, with its numerous vessels of all classes, and stearing all directions.</p><P>There are now only 40 passengers in the cabin, and 50 in the stearage.  The stear[a]ge fare is much better than in any stearage I every was in before, consisting of Turtle steaks, and soup, and all kinds of fresh meats and vegetables, fresh bread, &amp;c, and as we are not crowded, we enjoy ourselves very much, considering.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">November, 1851<LB>Nov. 3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night one of the passengers named Swetser from Portsmouth, N H. jumped overboard in a fit of insanity and was drowned, although the Steamer was immediately stopt, a boat Lowered, and every effort made to rescue him.  It was said that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:he had been one of a company in search of hidden treasures supposed to have been burried by pirates on some of the Islands in the Gulf of Mexico, and having spent a fortune in a fruitless search, was now returning home a maniac.</p><P>The wind has got around in the north and is quite severe and cold.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This morning a man named Harrison from N York died from Isthmus fever, and after being sewed up in his canvas shroud, was commited to the deep, the Capt reading the Eng burial service.  To me this occasion was very solemn, knowing that the deceased was returning from the "land of gold" after an absence of many months, to receive the warm greetings, and hearty congratulations of his friends and the sincere welcomes of his family and kindred.  But just before he came in sight of his native land, he is called to depart from time to eternity, surrounded by strangers to none of whom did he chose to confide his dying charge to his family.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 5 A.M. took a pilot, and soon after came in sight of the coast off Barnegat, the wind, blowing strong and cold from off the land, reminding us of the frigid climate we were approaching.  We passed several vessels outward bound, and at noon passed the Narrows and came to at the Quarintine ground, and after being slightly detained, proceeded on to the city and at 2 1/2 P.M. came up along side the wharf.</p><P>The day was cold and my dress consisted of tattered summer clothing so that I presented quite a woe-begone appearance, but the hack-drivers and runners were as polite and chivalrous as though I was worth hundreds of thousands of dollars.  Accordingly Josiah and I took a hack and went to Crook's Dining Saloon where we put up for the night.<ANCHOR ID="n61">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: We went to Beebees &amp; Co's, Wall St where I sold my "dust" for $17.65 per oz.  The remainder of the afternoon we spent in procuring new outfits, &amp;c.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n61">J. H. Crooks ran an eating house and hotel at 195 Washington Street.  <HI REND="italics">The New-York City Directory for 1853-1854</HI>
072.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Went to a barber shop &amp; bath house in our California rig, and came out completely transmogrified, somewhat after the fashion of people in this part of this country.  Then went down to the "Collins Dock" and saw the Steamer's <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
072.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Arctic</HI>
072.sgm: that run to Liverpool.</p><P>At 4 P.M. took passage in Steamer <HI REND="italics">Connecticut</HI>
072.sgm: for Nashua via Norwich &amp; Worcester, but at the wharf just before she started I saw Mr. Senter and another man from Nashua who were just starting for "Cal."<ANCHOR ID="n62">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: My advice and information upon this subject was as freely given as sought for in the short time we had for conversation.  Mr McQuestion of Nashua who came on to see them off, returned in in this boat, so that I had a fine time to converse with him and get the news from Nashua--and among other things that Mr J. L. Doty had started for "Cal" two months before.<ANCHOR ID="n63">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n62">This was the <HI REND="italics">Connecticut</HI>
072.sgm: (2nd), fastest steamer of her day.  She was operated on Long Island Sound by the Norwich and New London Steamboat Company in connection with the Norwich and Worcester Railroad.  Fred Erving Dayton, <HI REND="italics">Steamboat Days</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n63">Stephen's stepfather.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">November, 1851<LB>7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 8 1/2 A.M. we arrived at Groton where Josiah left me to see his wife at Uncle Thomas Hutchins' while I went on to Nashua where I arrived at 9 oclock.  As we had not written to the friends of our intention of returning, I took them entirely by surprise, but found them all well and glad to see me.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">8</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Josiah &amp; wife came over from Groton and will stop a day or two.  We have a great many questions to answer, information to give, &amp;c but pass the time very pleasantly indeed.</p><P>Thanksgiving day in N H. we observed by gathering the family together at "Mothers" to partake of "Dinner," and then spent the afternoon in pleasant conversation.  And among other things the question was asked "when shall we all meet on a simalar occasion?"  How little did we realize that never in this world should we be permitted to enjoy this privelege.</p><P>Thanksgiving in Vermont being one week later, Josiah &amp; I decided to accept Mr Stone's invitation and spend it with him.<ANCHOR ID="n64">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Accordingly we started from here the day before, but were detained at Groton Junction so that we could only go to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:Brattleboro that night.  Ascertaning that there was no means of conveyance to Wilmington until the next afternoon we determined to foot it in the morning.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n64">Especially in New England Thanksgiving was a day of family reunion, but observance of a particular day was not binding upon every state.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Thanksgiving at Vt 1851.</HEAD>
072.sgm:<P>The next morning we arose at 4 o clock and started on foot for Wilmington, a distance of 20 miles.  A storm had been raging for the last day or two so that now the snow was from 2 to 3 feet deep, and as the roads were but slightly broken out, we found it very tedious travelling.  At 8 oclock we stopt at a farm house (Mr Eames) for breakfast, and fared most bountifully.  Having hinted that we had been to Cal, we were beset by such a torrent of interrogertories that we spent an hour very pleasantly.  Notwithstanding pressing invitations to remain, and to revisit them, we again set forth on our toilsome journey.</p><P>We occasionally got a ride on some wanderer's sleigh, and at noon arrived at Wilmington finding Mr Stone well and glad to see us, also his family.  At 2 P.M. we all rode up to Mrs Stone's father's where we were welcomed by the kind people in a hospitable manner.  We partook of a splendid dinner and spent the afternoon very agreably in conversation upon our former acquaintanceship in California, &amp;c.</p><P>At dusk we rode over to Dea[con] Wilson's where we were introduced by Mr Stone, and finding a very pleasant family were soon on familiar terms and passed the evening in singing, conversation, &amp;c. to our mutual satisfaction, and then rode home with Mr Stone.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The next Sunday</HEAD>
072.sgm:<P>I acted as bearer at the funeral of a young Lady who died a few days previous.  In the evening we attended the prayer &amp; conference meeting in the Baptist church which was made very interesting by remarks of Josiah &amp; Mr Stone.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Monday.</HEAD>
072.sgm:<P>This morning Josiah and Mr Stone went and looked the farm of Mr Fox, Mr Stone in the meantime advising Josiah to buy it.  After a great deal of bargaining, Josiah at length <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Tuesday.</HEAD>
072.sgm:<P>In the morning took the stage for Brattleboro, and at night arrived at Nashua, where we found the friends somewhat surprised on learning what had been accomplished during our visit.  And upon consideration I think Josiah was sorry that he had made such preperations to "settle down" so far from the family, but he had "pledged his word" and now must go.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">January, 1851<LB>Jan. 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I am now making preperations to return to Cal, and am constantly receiving applications for companions and hardly an hour passes in the day but what I have "callers" to get information and advice on this subject.</p><P>The weather is so cold compared with what I have been in, that I do not enjoy good health and then I find no opening in business to suit me.  For these reasons I shall return, although my friends do not wish me to go out alone again.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Having procured a good outfit of clothing, Revolver, &amp;c, I am now all ready to start at 5 oclock this afternoon, when the following persons will accompany me:</p><P>J. W. Clark</p><P>Tolles Roby</p><P>Granville Dodge</p><P>Horace R. Dodge</p><P>Frank H Fisher</p><P>John Robinson</p><P>Wm Taylor</p><P>Henry Roby</p><P>Joseph Wyman</p><P>Dr Woodbury of Nashua</p><P>George Cummings Josiah Cummings of Tyngsboro.--</p><P>Wm Parkhurst Dea Thos. Parker of Dunstable.</p><P>Sumner Stewart of Vermont.</p><P>Assembled the family together, with the exception of Josiah.  Attended prayers and I bade adieu to these objects of my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The weather for the last few days has been the coldest known in 20 years, and consequently the Sound is frozen up in many places, so that our progress during the night has been slow, and at 6 A.M. we find ourselves 30 miles from N.Y. in the midst of a sheet of ice filling the entire channel and being from 2 to 12 inches in thickness.</p><P>As the California Steamships are advertised to sail from N York today we feel a great deal of anxiety to get there.  Some of the passengers who had already purchased tickets to sail today took their baggage, got on to the ice, and went to the nearest R. R. Station (5 miles distant) on foot, if they could not charter a team, and thus got into the city before noon.</p><P>The Steamer in the meantime made very slow progress as she could only get through at all by backing herself away from the ice, and then running into it with all her force, and repeating this operation for miles.  The Steamer damaged her wheels and cutwater severly, but finally arrived at N York at 4 P.M. where we found the East River frozen over so that crowds of persons were walking over from Brooklyn to N York.</p><P>As soon as we got ashore, I went to the different Cal Steamship Offices, and finding no through tickets for sale, except on the Steamer <HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
072.sgm: to sail tomorrow,<ANCHOR ID="n65">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: accordingly our party bought tickets of B. S. Haight, 7 Baterry Place for $160.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:stearage fare.  We then put up for the night at "Dunlap's Hotel" on Fulton St. and in the evening got some articles of outfit.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n65">Wooden side-wheel steamer of 1,216 tons built in 1851 and chartered to the New York and Galway line in November of that year.  From January 1852 until February 1853 the <HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
072.sgm:, owned by Henry W. Johnson and others, was operated by an independent combination known as the New York and San Francisco Steamship Line in the New York-Chagres service, competing with the regular mail lines.  See <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the morning I filled a box with soda biscuit, salt cod fish, cheese, apples &amp; smoked Beef for my provision while I crossed the Isthmus; and at 10 A.M. we all embarked on the <HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
072.sgm:, Capt Berry.</p><P>At 2 P.M. we left the wharf amid the cheers of the crowd assembled, and were soon crushing our way through the ice, which so filled the harbor that the Steamers could not leave yesterday but were detained until today.  The Steamer <HI REND="italics">Daniel Webster</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The weather is cool and damp.  At 4 P.M. entered the Gulf Stream, finding the sea smother than we expected, but a thick fog enveloping us.  I am not very sea-sick but feel quite out of order in the region of the Stomach, in which condition several of our party were in.  At noon distance run 260 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">23</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the morning 4 vessels in sight, also the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Danl. Webster</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The weather is damp and rough so that more than one-half of the passengers are seasick, and some of our party are home-sick also.  The <HI REND="italics">Danl. Webster</HI>
072.sgm: is in sight and ahead.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night it rained so hard that I could not sleep on deck as usual, but took my lodgings on the cabin floor, as I have no berth or place to sleep.  Our fare in the stearage is quite hard so as to cause much grumbling among the passengers; but Capt Berry does all in his power to improve our condition, and is a noble generous man.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fine weather and quite warm.  We are in sight of Crooked and Inagua Islands.  There are 4 sail in sight, and the <HI REND="italics">Danl. Webster</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Early this morning we passed between Cuba &amp; San Domingo.  At 5 P.M. passed Jamaica within 15 miles of the high land that surrounds Kingston.  At noon the fireman's mess boy was sunstruck while sitting on the rail.  He has lost his reason and his life is despared of.  Fine weather but very warm.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">28</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The sea is not quite so smooth and calm as yesterday, but the weather is very warm, the thermometer standing at 90&deg;.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The sea is a little rougher than usual.  Saw breakers and two Islands to the west of us.  Mr. Stewart of Londonderry, Vt. is quite sea-sick, homesick, besides having symptoms of a fever.  He has not been well since we left N York.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">30</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 11 A.M. took a pilot and ran into the harbor of San Juan, where we arrived at noon.  We found the <HI REND="italics">Danl. Webster</HI>
072.sgm: had arrived two hours before us.  In port are 12 vessels among which are the U. S. sloop of war <HI REND="italics">Albany</HI>
072.sgm:, a Brittish Sloop of war, and the Brittish Brig of war <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
072.sgm:, the one that fired into the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Prometheous</HI>
072.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n66">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n66">Refusing to pay port dues at San Juan, Nicaragua, which he deemed unlawful, Commodore Vanderbilt in his steamer <HI REND="italics">Prometheus</HI>
072.sgm: started to leave the harbor in the fall of 1851.  Upon authority of the British Consul, the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
072.sgm: fired across the bows of the <HI REND="italics">Prometheus</HI>
072.sgm: and forced her to lay to until the enraged Vanderbilt had paid the charges.  The affair ended peaceably by an interchange of notes, of protest and disavowal, between the United States State Department and the British Foreign Office.  Wheaton J. Lane, <HI REND="italics">Commodore Vanderbilt, An Epic of the Steam Age</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I found upon going ashore that the town was situated on low land, and in fact the country round about here seems to be of a low marshy character, covered with a thick growth of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:underbrush and in some places with a fine forest.  There are some good frame houses brought from the U. S. but most of them are bamboo huts, with thatched roofs.  The population consists mostly of natives with a few white men from all parts of the U. S. and Europe, and taking them all together, I beleive that they are the most depraved, corrupt and rascally set of people that is often found in one locality.  I found the tropical fruits here in abundance, but not of good quality.  I bought a lemon measuring 13 inches in circumference here.</p><P>I went on board to supper, and then 39 of us hired a long boat and went ashore where we remained until 11 oclock seeing the sights, among which was a fandango that was quite a novelty to most of us, and which I was not very much interested in.  As we had got into the boat to come on board two bullets were fired at us from the opposite side of the bay, one of which struck a man's boot, and the other grazed a man's arm; and it is wonderful that some of us were not seriously hurt, but we finally got on board and took lodgings for the night on deck.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">January-February, 1852<LB>31</HI>
072.sgm:<P>After taking in 100 tons of coal, at 10 A.M. we got under way for Chagres.  While on our way out of the harbor, a boat containing 5 or 6 of our passengers came off from the town to come on board but were too late.  The weather is very warm with occasional showers.  At 7 P.M. we passed a steamer about a mile distant steering W.N.W.  A man in the stearage is sick with small-pox.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Feb. 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Since we left San Juan we have been running in sight of the coast, which is very uneven and mountainous, and at 11 A.M. we came to anchor in the roadstead of Chagres.  The steamer <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
072.sgm: from N York came in two hours before us.  Upon going ashore I found business going on quietly and things looking quite different from what they did 3 months ago.</p><P>I hired a yawl to carry 11 of us to Gorgona at $5. each, and started at 4 P.M., but as we had but 3 boatman, we did [not] go as fast as some of the boats.  At 7 oclock we came to Gatun, about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 2 A.M. started on our tedious journey up river, and at 7 oclock arrived at "Dos Hermanos" where we took breakfast.  Then proceeded on to the R.R.Station, where all but one of us got out and walked up on the R.R. track 4 miles, where we waited for the boat to come up.  Then got on board, and went up to within 2 miles of "Palenquilla," from where we footed it as before.  We started from Palenquilla at 4 P.M. up the river and passed the most difficult navigation of the river, and the most dangerous rapids; and at 7 P.M. hauled up alongside a sand bank, where we built a fire, cooked our supper and then spread our blankets on the river bank where we slept soundly for the night.  The boatman have used poles today, to propel the boat, and as we were in the midst of dangerous rapids, one of the boatman missed his hold, and the next instant we were dashing down stream with the torrent onto some rocks, which had we touched would have capsized, if not drowned, us, but by great exertion we managed to get ashore unharmed.  Tis said that many boats have been lost here and several lives.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Arose early, so that we had our breakfast cooked and ate, by daylight, when we started up the river--the most of us walking in a trail along the bank--which was shaded by a natural arbor, consisting of short bushy trees on each side interwoven at the top wild vines, and covered with flowers of every variety, color and perfume.</p><P>At "Adams's," 6 miles below Gorgona, all but one of our boats company started on foot for Gorgona.  After travelling one mile in sight of the river the main trail diverged from it, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<HI REND="italics">February</HI>
072.sgm:, 1852 according to instructions, we followed it; but soon suspecting we were wrong, took another trail leading (as we supposed) towards the river, and in a S.W. direction.  Finding we were a long ways out of the way, we struck out for the river, as near as we could judge, and could find trails, as we could only go where they led, the thicket was so impenatrable.  We kept on in this way for about 8 miles when we passed a deserted "Ranche" in an opening in the forest, but as we could get no information here we pushed on until the trails became so indistinct and unpassible, that we could go no farther, when we held a consultation, in which the whole company called upon me to extricate them from this disagreeable "fix," thinking that as I had crossed the Isthmus twice--although I never was within 10 or 12 miles of this locality--that I must know all the nooks and corners of Central America and thereby rescue them from their somewhat perilous situation.  Mr Wyman in particular felt very bad, and rated us soundly for piloting him here, while at frequent intervals he uttered sobs &amp; prayers, groans &amp; curses at the bad luck.  We finally concluded to retrace our steps, and when we reached the "opening in the forest," we found about 100 of our fellow passengers who had got onto the wrong track as well as ourselves.</p><P>We were fortunate enough to get a native guide to pilot us in to Gorgona so that we arrived there at 4 P.M. and found the boat had been there two hours.  We engaged Mr John McCall to transport our baggage to Panama at 7 cts pr lb, and at 7 P.M. a party of 23 of us started for Panama, and having gone 4 miles, stopt for the night at a native's hut.  I, being the only one who could speak Spanish, was employed as interpriter to secure food, lodging, &amp;c.  Being all very tired from our long day's walk, we slept soundly on our bed of poles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We arose very early, took a lunch, and as soon as we could see resumed our journey.  This being the "dry season" the road is quite dry although very rough so that I get along very well; and as most of our company do not choose to travel very fast, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:but take the whole day to get to Panama, I pushed on, stopping at all the houses on the road to rest a moment, and arrived at Panama at 2 P.M., putting up at a French Hotel outside the walls of the city.  Passengers from the Steamer U S were coming in in squads until late in the evening.</p><P>As we came on the pioneer Steamer of the "Independant Line" (a new company) there is no Steamers to connect on the Pacific.  But an Agent came out with us to purchase or charter them, to convey us to San Francisco.  This Agent is here, but has not as yet been able to make any arrangements in securing a Steamer; and I am afraid that he will not succeed as there are no Steamers in port that have not a full complement of passengers engaged, and sailing vessels are scarce.  And there being a number of persons here waiting passage to San Francisco, the prospects for a speedy departure seem quite doubtful.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This morning I feel "stiff" and somewhat "used up" from the effects of my journey, but well otherwise.  Our baggage arrived this morning in good order.  Wrote a letter home to Stilman.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Agent redeemed our tickets this morning not being able to secure us a passage, so that now we must each one lookout for himself.  At 4 P.M. I started for Taboga in the Sloop <HI REND="italics">Cora</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>After taking a thorough search I find no situation, and 8 A.M. came back to Panama in Steamer <HI REND="italics">Taboga</HI>
072.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n67">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I then bought a ticket on the ship <HI REND="italics">Blonde</HI>
072.sgm: of the American Consul, paying $122 1/2.  Several of the Nashua Boys bought tickets on the same vessel.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n67">The <HI REND="italics">Taboga</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">8</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Steamer <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
072.sgm: sailed today for San Francisco with 600 or 700 U.S. Troops.  Passengers from the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Georgia</HI>
072.sgm: from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">9</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fine weather.  I enjoy myself very well in conversation with friends, reading, &amp;c.  The fruit here is very fine now and I eat a great deal, which has a beneficial effect on my health.  The Pine apples, Oranges, Melons &amp; mangroves are as fine as I wish to eat.  Stearage tickets on a Steamer to San Francisco are selling for $200. to $250.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">10</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the morning a party of us went out to a creek 2 miles from town and bathed, washed our clothing, &amp;c.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">11</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This afternoon the Doctor and a few more of our party went down to the beach to embark on the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
072.sgm: as she is advertised to sail today.  But as she did not come up from Toboga, they went down there in the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Toboga</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This afternoon the <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">13</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Sold my ticket for $7. less than I gave for it, intending to go by Steamer.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">14</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Beautiful weather.  There are some 4000 persons in this city waiting passage to San Francisco.  Hundreds of persons are encamped in the edge of the forest one mile back of the town, where they cook their own food and sleep on the ground.  And consequently there is a great deal of sickness, and considerable mortality.  Small Pox, Measles, Isthmus Fever and Yellow Fever are the prevailing diseases.  Of those who reside in town having comfortable accomodations, there is but little sickness.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Steamer <HI REND="italics">New Orleans</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>A fine shower of rain today for the first time during our stay here.  Mr Stewart is sick with Panama fever, but we are doing all we can for his recovery.  His system is in a bad situation, being completely relaxed from the effects of so sudden and severe a change of climate.  His mind is also torpid, and seems to be somewhat affected with his body, though he is perfectly sensible of everything around him.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">17</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 3 P.M. the passengers for ship <HI REND="italics">Blonde</HI>
072.sgm: went on board, and upon consideration Mr Stewart decided to embark, as he has a ticket on this vessel and as F. H. Fisher, J Parkinson, J. W. Clark and some others have tickets on this vessel, so that he will have friends to take care of him, he went on board.  In the evening the <HI REND="italics">Blonde</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Went down to the market and bought 20 doz Eggs at 42 cts per doz.  Also purchased a stout barrel, and 200 lbs Salt, to pack the Eggs in.  I am intending to fill the bbl and carry the Eggs with me to San Francisco on a steamer, where I think I can sell them to good advantage.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Frank Fisher came up from Toboga where the <HI REND="italics">Blonde</HI>
072.sgm: now lays, and tried to sell his own, Mr Stewart's, and Mr Parkinson's tickets.  He does not like the ship, she being old, badly ventilated, badly provisioned, crowded with passengers, &amp;c. Mr Stewart is on board and is no better, and we have made arrangements with the American Consul to refund the money on these three tickets, so that Mr Stewart will have an opportunity to recruit.  In the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I have thought of purchasing a Resturant here that is now doing a large business, but the price asked is enormous, so I have given up the idea.  Today I bought 50 Doz Eggs at the same rate as yesterday, and packed them all in the bbl.  The Steamers <HI REND="italics">Cherokee, West Wind</HI>
072.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night two Irishman got into a quarrel in which one of them came very near getting killed.  Frank Fisher came up from Taboga where he left Mr Stewart sick, in about the same condition as while here.  As Frank is going back to wait upon him, I am to remain here to purchase tickets on the next Steamer for the party.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>It is Sunday and there being no protestant worship I attended the services at the Cathedral, which consisted of the ceremonies, formalites and rites of the Catholic Church in all their bigotry and supstition.</p><P>In the afternoon I followed a body of Priests to a cock-fight which is got up under their superintendance and for their special benefit.  I did not enjoy this bloody scene and soon after left, and saw the ceremonies of a funeral of a woman of high rank, and I thought them to be of a revolting character, to any but Savages.  The burial place here consists of a wall about 7 feet thick and 9 feet high enclosing a square plot of ground of about 1/2 acre.  This wall is filled with cavities, resembling ovens, which open into this enclosure, there being 3 rows one above another running around the wall, and into these tombs the corpses are laid away and the entrence sealed up.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">23</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 9 A.M. John Parkinson came up from Taboga, and reports Mr Stewart about the same.  As this is a Holiday with the natives I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Steamer <HI REND="italics">Fremont</HI>
072.sgm: arrived 22 days from San Francisco, with 40 passengers.  The Steamers <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Office of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company was anounced to be open at 9 o'clock this morning.  So Frank Fisher, John Parkinson and myself stationed ourselves at the Office door 3 hours beforehand so as to be sure to be "first," as there are only 17 tickets for Sale.  But before the door was opened, about 1000 persons were assembled to be the "lucky ones," and although we exerted every nerve to maintain our position we found it impossible, as the violent heavings of that excited mass of human flesh could not be resisted by a few men, but when the door opened the crowd rushed for the "ticket delivery" with frantic efforts, and with such force as to make the building tremble like an aspen leaf; and I found myself 3 or 4 feet from the loop-hole from where the tickets were to be obtained, and with no immediate prospect of arriving at this important position.  The crowd was terrific, so that I was thankful that I had eaten no breakfast and as it was got along without serious injury.  But to make a long story short, Fisher &amp; Parkinson bought tickets No 16 &amp; 17, and if there had been one more I should have got it, but as it was, I was "just too late."  Wrote down to Stewart, advising us [him?] to come up here if he was able, and if not able, to write.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>As we received nothing by the boat this morning Fisher &amp; Parkinson will go down at 4 P.M. to see and take care of Mr Stewart.  In the meantime they have sold their tickets that they bought yesterday for $200. each, thus making $50. each by the operation.  The Steamer <HI REND="italics">Tennessee</HI>
072.sgm: and ship <HI REND="italics">Rowena</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>By this morning's boat I received a line from Frank Fisher, stating that Stewart was quite sick, and requesting me to get the hospital physician "Dr Dudley," and with him come down by the afternoon boat, also to bring some medicines.  I saw the Doctor who could not go.  But at 4 P.M. I went on board the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Taboga</HI>
072.sgm: and at 6 oclock landed at Taboga, where I met Frank, who told me that Mr Stewart died that morning at 9 1/2 oclock, and that he had burried him in the American burying ground on a distant shore of the Island.  His disease was an inward fever caused by being partly sun struck while crossing the Isthmus.</p><P>His spirits have been drooping ever since we left N York and so sudden a change of climate from cold to hot, enervated his system so as to invite disease.  And while walking across the Isthmus he experienced sufficient exposure to implant the seeds of the fatal disease from which he died.  A doctor attended him during his sickness, but did not consider him very sick until a few hours before he died.  And to us all his death was quite unexpected.  The last hour of his life he seemed unconscious of what was passing around him and Mr Fisher could not get anything from him in regard to his wishes in the disposition of his money, clothes, &amp;c.  The "last few moments" he seemed quite at ease, and finally dropped away without a struggle.</p><P>Mr Fisher took his money, $287, clothes, &amp;c, got a coffin made, and at 1 P.M. carried the corpse in a boat to the grave on the slope of the Island, and under an Orange tree, with a round stone at the foot of his grave, is all there is to mark the last resting place of Sumner Stewart.</p><P>Frank Fisher went with me to the grave, and I thought how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:sad it must be to die in a foreign land, among strangers--without father, mother, brother, or sister to offer consolation, sympathy, and the many little offices that affection would devise.  His grave is surrounded by the lifeless bodies of his countrymen, who like him have paid their lives a forfeit, in their haste to get Gold.  His grave is in one of "Nature's" loveliest dell's, where the soft balmy breezes that ripple along the smooth surface of the bay, and rustle through the branches of those beautiful trees loaded with their rich-hued tropical fruit, together with the long heaving swell of the mighty Pacific, continually beating against the rocky shores of the Island on which his body is to remain until the "Resurection Day," sing a mournful requiem over his grave.</p><P>The tidings of his death came so suddenly upon me that I was almost overpowered, and I thought I would have given anything to have been with him in his last hours, perhaps to express some consoling word before he should "go hence to be no more."  The expenses of his sickness and burial amounted to about $65. and as Frank has attended him, and is somewhat acquainted with his affairs, he will take charge of them now.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">February, 1852<LB>28</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We collected the clothes, &amp;c of Stewart's and went up to Panama.  Gloomy thoughts come over me when my mind recurs to the scenes of the last two days, and it reminds me of the importance of being prepared for the "last great change."</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Today is Sunday, and I again feel my lonely condition at passing my Sabbaths where there is no protestant worship.  A few days ago as I strolled down to the market early in the morning, I saw the body of a man--apparently an American--lying on the ground very much distorted and swollen and covered with vermin.  He had probably been attacked with some of the epidemics so prevalent and fatal here, and died before he could receive assistance.  The body remained here 4 or 5 hours after I saw it, when the American Consul had it removed.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">March, 1852<LB>1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fine weather as usual.  Frank Fisher and I are engaged in selling the clothes of Mr Stewart, and as we sell mostly to the natives, my little knowledge of Spanish is quite useful.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Passengers by Steamer <HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Steamer <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Schooner <HI REND="italics">Josephine</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fisher, Parkinson &amp; myself, have bought Stearage tickets on the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Fremont</HI>
072.sgm: to San Francisco for $255. each.<ANCHOR ID="n68">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: There have been several indignation meetings on the plaza today in regard to the <HI REND="italics">Josephine</HI>
072.sgm: affair; and the general tone of the people seem to be, to bring out the prisioners and hang them.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n68">Note that Stephen later calls her a "propeller," or screw-driven vessel; she was unlike most of her contemporaries, which were side-wheelers.  Tonnage was only 559.  <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Passengers from Steamer <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
072.sgm: are coming in from Chagres.  I sold my Eggs at a Resturant for about what the[y] cost me.  In the evening the purchaser came to me "jumping mad" and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:ordered me to pay back the egg money, which I respectfully declined doing.  Upon which he swore, threatened and intreated but all to no purpose, as I sold the Eggs as <HI REND="italics">they were</HI>
072.sgm:, and was determined to stick to the bargain.  Wrote a letter home.  Tickets on the <HI REND="italics">Fremont</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Bought a lot of fruit, and at 3 P.M. Fisher, Parkinson and myself took a boat for the <HI REND="italics">Fremont</HI>
072.sgm: where we arrived in safety.  Before I went on board, the "egg purchaser" came to me and made the most profound apologies for his conduct to me yesterday, and desired that everything might be forgotton.  So we shook hands, and parted as friends.</p><P>At 6 P.M. the <HI REND="italics">Fremont</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">8</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We are running in a southerly direction within 2 miles of the N.E. coast of the bay where the scenery is delightful.  At 3 P.M. we passed the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Isthmus</HI>
072.sgm: bound to Panama from San Francisco.  The <HI REND="italics">Fremont</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">9</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This morning we left the mouth of the Bay and put to sea.  Saw 2 Ships in the offing, beating their way into the bay.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">10</HI>
072.sgm:<P>A rough sea, with a head wind.  We are now off the Gulf of Tehuantepec.  Fisher, Parkinson &amp; I sleep on the hurricane deck on a lot of trunks.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">11</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At noon passed a large Eng Ship bound down with a fair wind.  Broke the crank of the propeller by which we were detained 8 hours.  And while thus disabled a Small Schooner passed close under the stern, in which a large number of piratical looking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Warm weather and quite smooth.  Saw multitudes of blackfish, also a shark and a sun-fish.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">13</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The passengers in the Stearage issued a series of complaints in regard to our fare.  Upon which the Capt (John M. Dow) came forward and attended to our wants in good shape.  At noon we are 1060 miles from Panama, and 350 from Acapulco.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">14</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Sea Smooth and weather warm.  Our progress is so slow as to be almost discouraging.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This morning came in sight of land for the first time in 5 days.  Sea is smooth, and weather warm.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In sight of the coast all day.  At 4 P.M. entered the harbor of Acapulco, and made fast alongside a coal-ship.  Found the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
072.sgm: just leaving for "San Juan Del Sur" with 900 passengers, she having arrived here this morning from San Francisco.</p><P>We here learned that the Steamer <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
072.sgm: bound from San Juan to San Francisco with 900 passengers on board was run on to the beach 100 miles below here, on a clear starlight night so that the vessel was a total loss, although the passengers were all saved, but suffered severly on their journey up here.  They are all here now, but some in a starving condition, having lost all their money, clothes, &amp;c.  Some of them have a little money, but not enough to pay their passage to San Francisco, and others are without a dollar, and are suffering from sickness and privation and their case is worse than that of the emigrants at Panama.</p><P>Fisher, Parkinson, &amp; I put up at a "Chinese House," the best in town, where we partook of a fine supper of Eggs, Chickens, fresh pork, &amp;c, which was an agreeable change from our Ship fare.  I also found the best Chockalate here that I ever tasted.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:Frank Fisher found one of his old acquaintances who was a passenger by the <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">17</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We slept on nice cot-beds last night and enjoyed ourselves finely.  I was offered $300. for my ticket to San Francisco but refused.  Frank &amp; I went out to a creek about a mile from town where we took a bath that refreshed us very much.</p><P>At the American Hotel I came across Geo D. Hager of Nashua who was one of the wrecked passengers, and is now without any means of getting to San Francisco having only 10 or $12.  He asked my advice and assistance and finally entreated me to assist in getting him on board the <HI REND="italics">Fremont</HI>
072.sgm:, to which I finally assented, though with some doubts of our success.  Accordingly, Fisher, Parkinson and I went on board showing our tickets at the gangway as required.  I then took Fisher's ticket and my own and went ashore where I found Hager anxiously waiting my arrival with his carpet bag of clothes, all he had saved from shipwreck.  I then gave him my ticket and took his baggage and went on board telling him to follow in 1/2 hour.  I got on board safely, and also slyly got the carpet bag on board and then waited for the result of the operation.  Soon after he came off in a boat with a lot of others, and came up the gangway, showed his ticket to the Purser and was about to pass, when he was detected by the Steward as a stranger and an investigation was had in the matter, which was concluded by the Purser taking the ticket from Hager, and sending him ashore.  Soon after I went to the Purser after the ticket, when he informed me that I had lost my passage by giving my ticket to another person, and that I must pack up and go ashore.  I remonstrated with him but to no purpose, and he finally preomptoryly commanded me to go ashore, or he would put me there.  So I gave some directions to Fisher in regard to my baggage and then stepped into a boat and started for the beach, but had not proceeded far when the Purser called me back <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:and told me to come on board, which I did, when he told me that I might go in the <HI REND="italics">Fremont</HI>
072.sgm: to San Diego and in the meantime he would enquire into the matter.  But I found the reason of his calling me back was that the passengers expostulated with the Purser, and told him that it was a shameful proceeding in him to leave a boy like me in a foreign land, &amp;c.  So to preserve his own reputation, but not with any friendly feelings to me, I was permitted to go on.  He ernestly entreated me to explain the whole affair, but I refused fearing that he would again send me ashore.</p><P>At 3 P.M. the passengers were all sent onto the coal-ship along side and the Steamer searched for stow-a-ways.  Two men were found in the coal-bin completely covered up with coal, who were uncerimoniously taken out and put ashore.  Then the passengers were transfered to the Steamer by showing their tickets, myself being an exception.</p><P>At 4 P.M. got under way and put to sea, running out through the North Channel (a narrow rocky passage), and were soon breasting the billows of the Pacific.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fine weather, with head winds.  The high mountainous coast of Mexico in sight all day.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Beautiful weather and tolerable smooth sea.  The air is somewhat cooler than it was a week ago.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Passed in sight of Cape Corriantes.  Fine weather as usual.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This being Sunday there was preaching on the Quarter deck by a Methodist Minister, the first protestant worship I have had an opportunity of attending since I left home.  Saw a huge shark.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Nothing of importance has taken place here for the last 6 days, having had good weather, although we do not enjoy ourselves firstrate we get along so slow.  At 11 A.M. we were spoken by a Pilot boat but did not take a pilot, and an hour after entered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:the harbor of San Diego where we found the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
072.sgm:, which left Panama 8 days after us.</p><P>The American town of San Diego is situated on the shore of the bay in front of the anchorage, and consists of a few scattered houses, the most of which are grogshops.  We could not purchase any bread or fruit although it is said that everything is in abundance at the Spanish town, 9 miles from here at the head of the bay.  I did not go up there, but went ashore at the American town and found that the apathy and indolence of the natives had supplanted the energy and industry of the Americans.  This Bay is surrounded by a ridge of hills, which protect it on all sides except the S.W.</p><P>After taking in coals &amp; water, at 7 P.M. in company with the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
072.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Fremont</HI>
072.sgm: again started for San Francisco.  Upon getting outside found the sea rising and a storm gathering from the N.W.<ANCHOR ID="n69">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n69">The historian, H. H. Bancroft, was aboard the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
072.sgm: en route to California.  In <HI REND="italics">California Inter Pocula</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">28</HI>
072.sgm:<P>A severe storm raging, and the bold rocky coast in sight on our lee, about 8 miles distant.  The Steamer ships a great deal of water, and labors severly in the heavy sea, so that the propeller was out of the water much of the time as her bow dove down into the trough of a sea, and the next moment the stern was burried in the sea up to the deck.  In consequence of which the Engineer stood at his post for a long time shutting off steam as the propeller rose out of water, and putting on steam as it sank back again, thus getting all the power that could possibly be applied, which did not increase our distance from the dangerous looking coast that was still close under our lee at dark.  And had the gale increased we must have gone ashore where a terrible fate would have awaited us.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>During the night the gale abated but there is still a heavy sea on.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">April, 1852<LB>Apr. 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Early this morning the Steamer was stopt, as it was so foggy that nothing could be seen 1/2 mile distant, and the Capt concluded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:that he was in the vicinity of San Francisco.  And at 9 A.M. the fog cleared up and displayed to our anxious vision the "Golden Gate," or entrance to the harbor, a few miles distant.  So we were soon in the calm and placid waters of the bay and then observed the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
072.sgm: coming in about 9 miles astern.  I afterwards learned that she put into Monteray for fuel.</p><P>At 1 P.M. we came up alongside Long Wharf at the same time as the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Found 4 letters in Post Office for me containing good news from home.  In the afternoon went over to Happy Valley and called on Rev S. H. Willey, where I spent a pleasant hour.  He and his family are in good health and pleasantly situated.  His people also have built a new church.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I settled with E. L. Morgon &amp; Co, receiving $12. rent for my house on Vallejo St for 7 months.  Also received $78. from Bel[k]nap &amp; White for Scythes consigned to them a year ago, which proves a bad speculation as they cost over $110.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fine weather and warm.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I purchased 20 Sacks Potatoes at 3 1/2 cts. pr lb. also pickles, cheese, segars, &amp;c. to the amount of $150.  In the afternoon, Fisher, Parkinson, Buel &amp; Morriss went up to Sacramento.  The Steamer <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Shipped my freight on board the sloop <HI REND="italics">A. V. Frazer</HI>
072.sgm:, Capt Johnson, for Stockton.  I left my trunk on board a storeship and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I embarked on board the sloop at 5 A.M. and soon after got under way with a good breeze.  The Capt has been engaged in this business 4 years and understands the route completely, so we experianced no such mishaps as on my first trip to Sacramento.  The Capt, one man and myself are the only persons on board, who eat and sleep in the cabin, my couch being a bench.  At night came to anchor in the San Joakuin river 20 miles above N York and 80 miles from San Francisco.<ANCHOR ID="n70">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: During the night it rained severely.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n70">This was New-York-of-the-Pacific fifty miles above San Francisco on the southern shore of Suisun Bay.  Bayard Taylor said that despite "its aspiring but most awkward name...there never will be a large town there, for the simple reason that there is no possible cause why there <HI REND="italics">should</HI>
072.sgm: be one."  <HI REND="italics">Eldorado</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">8</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 5 A.M. hove up anchor and got under way with a fair wind but at 7 oclock came to a bend in the river where there is a head wind and tide.  So came to anchor waiting for a fair wind.  Steamers and Sail vessels are constantly passing us.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">9</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 4 A.M. all hands warped the sloop up stream 1/2 mile, from where we had a fair wind up to Stockton where we arrived at noon.<ANCHOR ID="n71">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Could not find a team to take my goods to Sonora at a reasonable price.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n71">Stockton, at the head of a slough extending three miles from the San Joaquin River, was the supply point for the Southern Mines.  Though it was 130 miles from San Francisco, tide water reached to its harbor which could accommodate 100 steamers in the heart of the city.  <HI REND="italics">The Stockton Directory and Emigrants' Guide to the Southern Mines</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">10</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Bargained with Mr Peyton to transport my freight to Sonora or Shaws Flat<ANCHOR ID="n72">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: for 3 1/2 cts pr lb.  Also settled with Capt Johnson paying $6. per ton freight, my passage free.  Loaded my freight on a 4 mule team and started for Sonora at 3 P.M.  Got stuck in a mudhole, but finally arrived at the 14 mile House where we put up for the night, although I slept on the load of goods.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n72">Shaw's Flat, a few miles from Sonora, was on the east slope of Table Mountain, a ridge that dominates the landscape in Tuolumne County, and was named after Mandeville Shaw, who planted an orchard there in 1849.  H.E. and E.G. Rensch and Mildred Brooke Hoover, <HI REND="italics">Historic Spots in California; Valley and Sierra Counties</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">11</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 6 A.M. the team started in company with 12 or 15 others, one of which was loaded with Chinese goods and followed by about 50 Celestials on their way to the mines.  At 10 A.M. my team got into a mudhole, and in pulling out, broke the axle.  So we were oblidged to unload and get another waggon which detained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At sunrise we resumed our journey and soon arrived at "Knights Ferry" where we were detained an hour waiting to cross.<ANCHOR ID="n73">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I sold 2 or 3 sacks of potatoes here, and at the Hotels on the road.  We went on 12 miles farther to the "Tuolumne House," when I struck off for the "Chinese Diggings" and arrived there at 5 P.M., where I was told that Mr J. L. Doty kept a boarding house but found that it was not so.<ANCHOR ID="n74">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: But I found some old acquaintances with whom I spent the night pleasantly.  I find walking so much very tiresome as I have walked about 25 miles today.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n73">The first ferry to be established on the Stanislaus River, about thirty-eight miles southeast of Stockton.  William Knight of Indiana had settled here in 1849 and in November of that year upon Knight's death the business passed into the hands of John C. and Lewis Dent, brothers-in-law of General U. S. Grant.  Ibid., pp. 449-450.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n74">This was Chinese Camp on the road from Knight's Ferry to Sonora, about ten miles southwest of Sonora.  So named because many Chinese worked the surface mines in this vicinity; it is estimated as many as 5,000 by 1856.  <HI REND="italics">A Memorial and Biographical History of the Counties of Merced, Stanislaus, Calaveras, Tuolumne, and Mariposa, California</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">13</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At Sunrise started for Oak Springs where I found my teamster with one of his mules so lame that he could not go on, but he got another one and started on.  At 3 P.M. we arrived at Shaws Flat where I sold part of my load, and my teamster refused to go farther, which left me in a bad fix; but by the kindness of Mr Crow I stored my goods in his butcher's shop, which was an open building but was the best I could get.  I paid my teamster about $90. and he started back immediately.  In the evening I found George Hale from Nashua who is mining here, and stopt with him over night.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">14</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the morning went over to "Humbug Flat" and saw Moses F. Kimball for whom I had letters.  He is cooking for a sawmill company, and George A. Johnson is engineer for the same company.  I remained here to dinner and sold my Colt's Revolver to Kimball for $35, and have partly agreed with him to purchase my goods.  Returned to "Shaws Flat" but did not succeed in selling anything.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">April, 1852<LB>15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Became acquainted with Mr Munroe of Nashua with whom I took a stroll through the mining regions about here and visited several Quartz veins.  After, we went over to Sonora.<ANCHOR ID="n75">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: In the afternoon returned to Geo Hale's cabin, which for the present is my home.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n75">Sonorian Camp, as it was first known, was established by a group of Mexican miners from the state of Sonora in 1848.  It has been estimated that gold valued at forty million dollars has been mined within a radius of two miles of Sonora.  Ibid., pp. 508-511.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Sold some of my goods at remunerative rates.  I also washed my clothes and cooked some.  Mr Hale is at work by the day at $4. and does not come home to dinner.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">17</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I find trade very qui[e]t.  In the evening Mr Hilliard of Nashua came over from Chili camp and I had an introduction to him for the first time.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the morning went over to Sonora after letters.  And at 10 A.M. in company with Kimball &amp; Hale started over to Chili camp where we arrived in season to partake of a fine dinner at the boarding house of J. L. Doty who is engaged in this business in company with Mr Lossee.  They have bought a house and have 20 or 25 boarders, and are now doing well, but in a month or two the dry season will come on, when the miners will all leave.  In the afternoon Kimball &amp; Hale returned to "Shaws Flat" while I have concluded to remain here a few days.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I have been looking about here but find no encouragement to go into business.  Doty &amp; Lossee own a share in a mining claim here but do not [get] much if anything from it.  Mr Doty is very anxious for me to buy out his partner, with whom he does not agree very well, but I do not think it would be good policy so I shall not.  Mr Hilliard came over from Sonora, in search of employment, but does not succeed.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm:<P>While eating breakfast Mr Hilliard invited me to go with him down to Mariposa to see some of the Nashua Boys; and also to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:perpendicular bank, apparently by a root or twig, ready to be dashed down the precipice by the weight of a sparrow, while from the thick tangled forest beyond, came the harsh discordant screeching's of the "Mountain hawk" or the "wild Eagle," which accorded well with the wild appearance of nature around.</p><P>In the other direction the country gradually assumed a level, the mountains and hills gradually diminishing in size, until the eye rested on a vast plain which extends for hundreds of miles in the valley of the San Joakin.  This being the first time I ever witnessed a scene of such variety and extent, I stood spell bound with astonishment and wonder, and I thought if the Atheist could see this landscape he would no longer say "There is no God."</p><P>We proceeded on down the mountain on the other side which was steeper, but not so long, as on the other side.  Our path now lay over a very uneven country intersected by deep revines, and covered with a thick underbrush called "Chapperel," the very place of all others most favorable for highwaymen and land pirates.  At 5 P.M. we came to the "Pen&tilde;a Blanco House" where the waggon road comes in from Stockton on the way to Coultersville.<ANCHOR ID="n76">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: We resumed our journey after resting a few moments, and at 6 P.M. arrived at Coultersville on Maxwells Creek just as the supper bells were ringing.<ANCHOR ID="n77">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: So we sat down to a bountiful table at Cashman &amp; Sullivan's boarding house and partook of a hearty supper after our walk of 30 miles.  We found N. E. Hale, Dr. Woodbury, J. A. Hood, G. Dodge, Wm Taylor, John &amp; Joseph Langdell and Blodgett of Nashua located here for the present, and most of them with good prospects.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n76">Pen&tilde;on Blanco was the Spanish name for the large gold-bearing quartz ledge that cropped out about three miles northwest of Coulterville.  Catherine Coffin Phillips, <HI REND="italics">Coulterville Chronicle</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n77">The founder of Coulterville, George M. Coulter of Pennsylvania, brought a load of provisions there in the spring of 1850.  He set up a store under a tree and hoisted a large flag, called by the Mexican miners <HI REND="italics">banderita</HI>
072.sgm:, to advertise his presence.  The place was called Banderita for a time but Coulter's popularity with the men was such that it became Coulterville when the post office was established.  Chapter VII, "The Formative Fifties", of Mrs. Phillips' book is a winsome account of life in the settlement when Stephen was there.  <HI REND="italics">Coulterville Chronicle</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>It rained through the night and now is pouring down, so that we cannot continue our journey.  But I enjoy the time in company with our Nashua friends too well to consider it any loss.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>23</HEAD>
072.sgm:<P>The Storm still continues, but we are in good quarters and good company also.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>This morning the rain has abated although it is still cloudy; but at 8 A.M. I got a "Donkey" of N.E. Hale, and Hilliard and I started for Mariposa, taking the trail down the creek to the Quartz Mill where we turned off in the direction of the Mercede River.<ANCHOR ID="n78">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n78">As soon as alluvial gold was found in the creeks and along the streams, men of mining experience began to search for the source veins from which the deposits had come.  The first gold quartz vein was discovered near Mariposa in 1849 and mills for the pulverizing of the gold-bearing quartz were established in that year.  The area around Mariposa and Coulterville, in the southern part of the mother lode, was exceptionally rich in quartz and other gold-bearing ore.  Donald C. Cutter, "The Discovery of Gold in California," <HI REND="italics">The Mother Lode Country</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We soon reached an eminence from where we could look down and see the "Mercede" some 3 miles distant, apparently not more than 2 or 3 feet wide, and separating two ridges of mountains, one on each side.  This elevation is 3000 or 4000 feet above the river and from it can be seen the plains below Mariposa, the country about Sonora, the Snow-capped "Sierra Nevada" Mountains, and the plains in the direction of Stocton.  We soon arrived at "Split-Rock" Ferry where we crossed, and followed a trail up the bank of the river 3 miles to Ridley's Ferry where we rested a few moments and saw a Quartz Mill in operation.  We then commenced climbing the mountain, and I found it the most tedious job I ever attempted, for after travelling about 2 hours, we met a man coming down of whom we asked the distance to the summit, and his answer though not very consoling was true, when he told us, "He reckoned we were about half way up the hill."  The Sun was very hot, and my "Donkey" was not able to carry me.  I was very much fatigued when we arrived at the top of this, the highest point of land I ever was on, and from where a magnificent birds-eye view of the adjacent country is to be obtained.</p><P>At 3 P.M. we arrived at the settlement in "Bear Valley" where we got a most unwholesome lunch, and then pushed on.<ANCHOR ID="n79">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: But in the labrynth of trails we got onto the wrong one, and were soon heading for Stockton; but meeting a man of whom we enquired, we were put on the right track.  Soon after leaving the Norwegian tent I was chased by a wild Bull and think I should have been seriously hurt, had it not been for the "Donkey" who I used as a breastwork to keep off this dangerous enemy.  Hilliard in the meantime kept at a safe distance behind with the only pistol we had.  But we finally got rid of this troublesome customer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:and pushed on to Mariposa.  But at dark arrived at a miner's cabin hoping to stay over night, but were sternly refused, and directed to "Agua Frio" about 2 miles distance.<ANCHOR ID="n80">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: So we went on, getting lost 2 or 3 times, tumbling into diches, holes, &amp;c, and at 9 P.M. arrived at this town, putting up at a Dutch Hotel and paying $1. for the privelege of spreading our blankets on the ground, which was wet and muddy, inside the tent.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n79">Though there are thirty Bear Valleys in California, the one Stephen traveled through was named by John C. Fre&acute;mont in 1848.  The town of Bear Valley, built and owned by Fre&acute;mont, lay about thirteen miles northwest of Mariposa.  <HI REND="italics">California Place Names</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n80">Hidden from the sun all day long, a cool stream of water gushing from the mountainside gave its name to the mine at this spot, as well as to the settlement that sprang up around it.  Ibid., p. 4. </NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Passed a sleepness night and arose early and went over to Mariposa where we found Wm Ward, J. B. Knowlton &amp; C. C. C. Hill of Nashua by whom we were cordially received.<ANCHOR ID="n81">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: After dinner Ward, Hilliard &amp; I went down the river about 4 miles prospecting, and found some tolerable good claims, but did not conclude to work any of them.  Arrived back in the cabin at sunset.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n81">Mariposa, the singular form of the Spanish <HI REND="italics">Las Mariposas</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>After looking about we see no very good opening for business, so at 10 A.M. we started back for Coultersville.  We got lost in "Bear Valley" but finally came out all right an arrived at Ridleys Ferry at dusk, but concluded to go on to Split-Rock Ferry, which we reached at 9 P.M. and spread our blankets in the ferry house for the night.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At Sunrise started on leisurely and at 10 A.M. arrived at Coultersville and were very glad to rest the remainder of the day, as I have walked about 70 miles in the last 3 days, and slept on the wet ground.  Granville Dodge is here and is quite feeble in health.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">28</HI>
072.sgm:<P>It rains so that we cannot resume our journey to "Shaws Flat" as we intended.  Mr Geo. A. Johnson came over from Sonora after Mr Boynton, and both intend to return there with us tomorrow.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">April-May, 1852<LB>29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 7 A.M. Johnson, Boynton, Hilliard, and I started for Sonora &amp; Shaws Flat.  We took dinner at "Pages Ranche," and arrived at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">30</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Visited Mr Kimball and got pay for some goods he has sold for me during my absence.  Then came back to Shaws Flat which I make my home.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">May 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the morning Hilliard and I went over to Sonora and made some enquiries in regard to business, but don['t] see anything lucrative [t]here.  So we have partly concluded to go into business at Coultersville.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Went with Mr Kimball over to Columbia, Santiago and Springfield.  Saw Mr Jaquith of Milford, N H. at the former place.  In the afternoon went over to Sonora for letters, as the mail is just in from the States, but there is none for me or Mr Doty.  I have sold out my goods that I brought from San Francisco, but did not make much.  Hilliard and I are still staying with Geo.  Hale and paying our share of the expenses.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Hilliard and I have decided to go into business at Coultersville soon as possible, so we both went out in search of capital, he having none, and I only $200.  I went to Mr Kimball and sold him 2 shares in Nashua &amp; Lowell R R for $208. and borrowed $50. for which I gave my note.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 9 A.M. I started for Chili camp where I arrived at noon.  Found Mr Doty in good health but business dull.  I received $100. for Mr Doty, giving him an order on Brother Stilman for that amount, and having rec'd $177 1/2 of Hilliard, am now on my way to San Francisco to purchase goods.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 10 A.M. I started on foot for Stockton, Mr Doty accompanying me about 2 miles, when I went on alone 10 miles, and then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Early in the morning started on, and at noon took dinner at the "14 mile house" and arrived at Stockton at 3 P.M.  Upon looking around I find that I cannot purchase goods to advantage here.  Put up at the "Eastern Exchange."<ANCHOR ID="n82">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n82">The Eastern Exchange Restaurant was near Montgomery's Auction Store on Levee Street.  Here Tucker, Mitchell &amp; Company kept permanent and transient boarders, with or without lodging, serving meals at all hours.  Advertisement in <HI REND="italics">Stockton Directory</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 3 P.M. I took passage in Steamer E.  <HI REND="italics">Corning</HI>
072.sgm: for San Francisco.<ANCHOR ID="n83">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n83">This little 86-tonner had been one of the steamboats in the rate war beginning in December 1851 on the San Joaquin River, when the deck passage from Stockton to San Francisco was only $1.50.  She succumbed to competition about April 1852, and was later reported to have supplied the mines on the Tuolumne River in periods of high water and also to have engaged in a twice-daily ferry service from San Francisco to Oakland.  <HI REND="italics">Paddle-Wheel Days</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">8</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In San Francisco.  Recd 2 letters from home, and bought a few goods.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">9</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This is Sunday, but I am quite unwell so I do not go to church.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">10</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Dull and misty weather, with some rain.  Bought a few goods.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">11</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Stormy and very disagreable weather.  I bough about $400. worth of goods.  Also met Mr Barr of Nashua who has lately arrived from the States.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Hired a man and tore my house down on Vallejo St. and carried the old lumber to a "yard" for sale on commisson.  In the afternoon received a letter from Hilliard stating that things were taking a different turn from what he expected and requesting me to defer purchasing any more for the present.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">13</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Stored the goods I have purchased and at 4 P.M. took passage on the Steamer <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
072.sgm: for Stockton.<ANCHOR ID="n84">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n84">The <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
072.sgm: displaced 153 tons and was a competitor of the <HI REND="italics">Erastus Corning</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">14</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 9 A.M. arrived in Stockton, which was too  late for the Stages, so I am obliged to lay over until tomorrow.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">May, 1852<LB>15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 6 A.M. in company with James H. Barr and Wm Gardiner, I took the Mariposa Stage, arriving at noon at Heath &amp; Emory's Ferry,<ANCHOR ID="n85">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: and at night at Dickinsons Ferry on the Tuolumne River after a hot, tedious and dusty ride.  I slept in the Stage with a generous old Spaniard, who was a very agreable companion.  Being low in funds I carry my food with me, so my expenses are very small.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n85">Heath &amp; Emory's Ferry was situated on the Stanislaus River twenty-seven miles from Stockton on the road to the Mariposa, Merced, Tuolumne, and San Joaquin diggings.  The road via this ferry was said to be the only good winter road to the mines.  <HI REND="italics">Stockton Directory</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I was aroused at 4 A.M. by the passengers taking their seats for Mariposa.  So I bade good bye to Barr and Gardiner who went on in the stage while I started on foot up the river for Coultersville carrying with me a bundle of blankets and provisions.  At 8 A.M. I arrived at Branche's Ferry just as a team was starting out for Coultersville, and as I was unacquainted with the route, I accepted the teamster's offer to accompany him and put my bundle on the waggon.  The road lay over a barren rolling country and the sun being very hot we were glad to come in sight of the "New Diggins Ranche," where we halted for dinner, and at 1 1/2 P.M. started on, but were soon brought to another halt, in going up a steep hill, where we were oblidged to unload part of the cargo before we could proceed.  The road now lay over a very rough road, but we were successful in reaching the "Dutch Ranche" at 9 oclock in the evening without any accident.  I have walked 25 miles today.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">17</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Early in the morning I started over the mountain for Coultersville where I arrived at 10 A.M. finding Hilliard who had just arrived from Sonora.  We are stopping at the tent of Dodge &amp; Langdell, consulting in regard to future operations.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Raining as usual when I am at Coultersville.  Our business is arranged, and I shall start for San Francisco as soon as the weather will permit, to bring the goods here, while Hilliard and Dodge are erecting a house for us.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the morning started for Stockton on a team and stopt for the night at Branch's Ferry on the Tuolumne.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Resumed our journey early but travelled quite slow, and at night put up at the "Lone Tree House."</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Started very early and went to the "14 Mile House" where we got breakfast, then went on and arrived at Stockton at noon.  Distance from Coultersville 80 miles.  I drove a 4 mule team, and paid $6. besides for my passage.  At 4 P.M.  I took passage in Steamer <HI REND="italics">Sophia</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Waked up and found myself in S.F. I hurried around and bought $200. worth of goods, and shipped them with those I had previously bought on board the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Sophie</HI>
072.sgm: for Stockton, and took passage in the same vessel.<ANCHOR ID="n86">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n86">The correct spelling is <HI REND="italics">Sophie</HI>
072.sgm:.  She was a side-wheel steamboat of 148 tons, making three trips weekly between Long Wharf, San Francisco, and Stockton.  <HI REND="italics">Paddle-Wheel Days</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">23</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Arrived at Stockton Sunrise, but it being Sunday I did nothing, and am not in suitable condition to attend church.  I saw Geo. D. Hager who I left at Acapulco.  He arrived at San Francisco a day or two ago in the Clipper Ship <HI REND="italics">Northern Light</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I chartered a 6 mule team, paying 3 1/2 cts per lb freight.  But it could carry only 4000 lbs so I was obliged to leave the remainder 1450 lbs in "Seeman's Stable" to be sent on the first opportunity.<ANCHOR ID="n87">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Started out in season to arrive at the "Lone Tree Ranche" at sunset, whe&die;re we remained for the night.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n87">J. W. Seaman's livery on Centre Street above Market.  <HI REND="italics">Stockton Directory</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Started on and at noon arrived at Heath &amp; Emory's Ferry, where in crossing the floating bridge, we could not pull up the bank on the other side, until the load was removed.  At night we stopt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">May-June, 1852<LB>26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Started on and walked 12 miles in the hot sun without finding any water, so that when we reached Branch's Ferry we were quite exhausted.  In crossing the river which was very high, and the current very swift, our team loaded the boat so deep that the water boiled over the gunwale, and we expected to sink every moment, but by great exertion managed to get over before she filled with water.  It made me tremble to think how near I came of loosing my life and property all at once.  At sunset we arrived at Martin's Ranche where we remained for the night.  We have left part of our load at this the "New Digging's Ranche."</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 10 A.M. started on, and found much difficuty in pulling up the hills, but finally arrived at George's Ranche with one wheel "used up."</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">28</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Unloaded the wagon and the teamster (Geo Hirst) started back to Stockton after another waggon, while I walked over to Coultersville, where I arived at 2 P.M. and found Hilliard and Dodge waiting for materials, goods to complete the house.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>One of us will go out to George's Ranche with "Donkeys" to bring in 2 or 3 boxes which contain the tentcloth, tools, &amp;c as soon as we can secure the services of these useful animals.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">30</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Hilliard started out with 2 "Donkeys" and brought in the desired articles, after a great deal of trouble.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">31</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I am at work sewing the tentcloth in an old log-hut, while Hilliard and Dodge are finishing the frame.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We are at work as yesterday.  At noon Mr Doty came over from Chili Camp, having closed business there without making anything, and is now in search of employment.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The 1450 lbs of freight left at Stockton arrived today by packmules at 3 cts pr lb.  We are employed the same as usual.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Dr Woodbury gave Mr Doty a claim 1/4 of a mile from here, and I found a pick, pan &amp; shovel.  So Mr Doty went up and prospected it, but as it never has been worked, the ground is very hard, and also very rocky, so that it required the hardest kind of work to get into it.  He found some gold but not as much as he would like to.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Hilliard is helping me today sew the tentcloth, so that we get along quite fast.  Mr Doty worked a little in the claim, but has finally concluded to abandon it.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We have finished our tentcloth, and in the afternoon took our "Donkey" and went over the hills two miles, and dragged some timbers down for our house.  The frame is nearly ready for covering.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Sunday.  Last night I was taken with the bowel complaint severly, but this morning feel better after taking a bath in the beautiful creek here.  The weather is clear and beautiful.  Mr Doty went back to Chili Camp, not liking the Digging's about here.  Yesterday Mr Knowlton passed through here on his way to Mariposa from Sonora.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We have got the cloth on the frame and Dodge is at work finishing the inside.  Some Irishmen have gone into the claim, abandoned by Mr. Doty and are making about 2 oz each per day<ANCHOR ID="n88">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n88">On Maxwell's Creek the diggings were rich at this time.  J. Ross Browne noted that the common yield there in 1852 was fifteen to twenty dollars per day per man.  <HI REND="italics">Resources of the Pacific Slope</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We have got the counter &amp; shelves made and are getting along very well only that I have a very troublesome "boil" on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June 19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We have opened our shop for business today, although everything is an unfinished state, and the prospect for business seems to be good.  Doct Woodbury has lanced my "boil" which is now some eas[i]er, although very sore.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We have a fair amount of trade and hope to do well.  We are still improving and finishing our store so as to make it attractive and conveniant.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July 3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>We have got our building lined, an awning up, and hope soon to finish our building operations.  I have 2 "Felons" on my right wrist which the Dr has lanced, and are very painful.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Independance day!  Nothing of importance occured, except a great many miners from the adjacent country are in town to have a "good time."</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Aug. 15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>As the streams about here are dried up, or too low to work, most of the miners have gone to the rivers until the rainy season sets in, so that trade is quite dull.</p><P>Dr Woodbury has left an excellent run of practice, and gone to San Francisco and most all of the other Nashua Boys have taken their departure.  Since we came here, we have boarded with G Dodge, paying about $11. per week, each, and $7. per day for work.  But as he has now broke up house-keeping we board with Mr Brock.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sept. 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>A day or two ago Mr Brock &amp; I went over to Sonora mule-back, via Chili.  We started in the morning, took dinner at Stevens Bar, and then struck up Woods Creek passing through Jacksonville, and 2 or 3 chinese camps, and stopt for the night at a Dutchman's tent.  The next morning started early, over the mountains that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:lay on each side of this creek, and reached Chili camp in season for breakfast.  I found Mr Doty had gone on to the Stanislaus River cooking for a party.</p><P>We arrived at Sonora in season for dinner which we partook of with a friend of Mr Brock, who is in the provision business here.  We remained here until the next morning when we returned, after a pleasant but short vacation from our secular pursuits.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I have just returned from a trip to San Francisco on which I started a week ago from here in company with Mr Quigley, a merchant of this place.  We left here at 3 P.M. expecting to lodge at Branch's Ferry.  But the evening was so dark that we were oblidged to camp down near the "New Diggings" using our saddles for pillows, using the saddle blankets for our covering.  We arose very early the next morning and took breakfast at "Branche's," then went on to the "Lone Tree Ranche," where we put up our jaded horses for the night.  The next morning we arrived in Stockton at 9 A.M.  I put up my horse at a stable, delivered 36 oz Gold Dust to Messers Hager &amp; Kimball for Mr Brock, completed some other business, and at 4 P.M. took the boat for San Francisco.  I found the cholera raging here, to some extent.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I arrived at San Francisco and spent a few days purchasing goods, then started back with my freight to Stockton.  The Cholera is raging at S. F. although not very severely.  There are plenty of luscious pears and grapes in the market which may be the cause of this fearful disease.  I shipped my goods to Coultersville at 3 cts per lb. then got onto my horse and rode back to C[oultersville].</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Oct. 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Hilliard in company with Brock have gone to whip-sawing lumber to be used in making toms, sluices, &amp;c.<ANCHOR ID="n89">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Their pit is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:about 1 1/2 miles from here, where they live in a tent, leaving me in charge of the store.  Their Lumber sells for .37 pr foot.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n89">Sluicing was the most important of all mining inventions for washing dirt.  Built of 1 1/2 in. boards 12 or14 ft. long, sections of the sluice were fitted together to form troughs of 50 to 1,500 feet and even longer.  The sluice was set with an inclination of from 1 in. to 1 1/2 in. fall per foot; it was fitted with numerous riffle bars along its whole length.  The largest size sluices could wash as much as 450 cu. yds. a day, and a small sluice could wash all the dirt thrown in by a dozen men or more.  The riffle bars and all exposed wood rapidly wore away under the great body of water and large stones so that lumber to keep the sluice in repair must have been much in demand.  <HI REND="italics">Mining in the Pacific States</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Dec. 13</HI>
072.sgm:<P>While it was yet so dark this morning that we could just pick our way, Alex. Stair, Stetson and myself mounted on horses, started for San Francisco.<ANCHOR ID="n90">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I had $800. of my own and $2000. for Mr Brock to be delivered in Stockton.  We arrived at Don Pedro's Bar at 8 A.M., took breakfast, and Stetson finally concluded to go no farther.  So Stair &amp; I started on, but as he had the best animal he got ahead of me, and thus left me to pursue my journey alone.  At 11 A.M.  I arrived at Knight's Ferry, my horse completly worn out and unable to go farther; in fact, I feared she would die, as she would neither eat or drink anything.  I hired her taken care of at $1.50 per day and the next morning took the Stage for Stockton.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n90">Alexander Stair was a friend of George Coulter.  With James Mason Hutchings, the celebrated San Francisco journalist, and several others, he made the first tourist expedition to the Yosenite Valley in 1855.  <HI REND="italics">Coulterville Chronicle</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The roads were in an awful condition, it having rained almost constantly for the last two weeks.  But we managed to get into French Camp at 7 P.M.  All about he&die;re seems to be one vast mudhole, except occasionally a sheet of water covers a few acres of land.  It is impossible for teams to go into Stockton, the ground in this vicinity being low and completely saturated with water.  The next morning I went in a boat to Stockton which is 7 miles distant by water and 2 by land.</p><P>I delivered Brock's money to Hager &amp; Kimball, and at 2 P.M. took passage on Steamer <HI REND="italics">Sophie</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Arrived at San Francisco and purchased 200 books, phamphlets, magazines, &amp;c, also some Rubber Boots, &amp;c.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>It has been raining here incessantly for the last 5 days, so I have concluded to wait no longer for it to cease and have shipped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:my goods on board Steamer <HI REND="italics">C. M. Webber</HI>
072.sgm:, and took passage on her for Stockton.<ANCHOR ID="n91">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n91">Side-wheeler of 144 tons, which had been named for the founder of Stockton.  <HI REND="italics">Paddle-Wheel Days</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 9 A.M. arrived at Stockton, and found it inundated.  The wharf was mostly under water.  Several bridges were swept away.  A few buildings also were carried off by the flood, which was rising every hour, and was already in many of the Stores so as to compel the occupants to remove goods from the floor onto shelves, counters, &amp;c.  Ferrys were established across the principal streets which were now foaming cataracts, and unsafe to cross, or traverse with carriages.  A large wholesale produce store got adrift and commenced floating down stream but finally got caught, and settled down on a corner, where it remained in a very peculiar situation.  Although a great deal of property has been moved from the first to the second stories of the buildings, yet the loss is immense.  The water is from 1 to 4 feet on the first floors of the stores here, and produces great consternation among the merchants.</p><P>For miles around a vast sheet of water presents itself to view, with a fleet of houses, some apparently at anchor and some in motion, while boats are out in every direction steming the flood, rescuing families from their aquatic situations, and also picking up goods that are floating in [every] direction.  Those who have farms are oblidged to go and come in boats, perhaps over the same roads that they trod dry and dusty one month ago.  I have got my goods stored at Hager &amp; Kimballs, and lodge at their store with Mr Chase, their clerk.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>For the last 3 days I have been waiting for the water to fall, but as it still continues to fall <HI REND="italics">from above</HI>
072.sgm: and there is no cessation of this weather, I am determined to get home as soon as possible.  So I filled my saddle-bags with late States papers, bought a Rifle, and took my India Rubber Boots in a sack, and at 2 P.M. took a boat for French Camp where I arrived at dark.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">23</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Paid $12 1/2 passage to Knights Ferry and started at 6 A.M. in the face of a cold storm and over the worst road I ever wish to see.  And after a most tedious day's journey we arrived at Heath &amp; Emory's Ferry, a distance of 20 miles, where we put up for the night.  The stage was crowded and there was no accomodations for us here, so I passed the night shivering and thinking of better times.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Started on and followed up the river which is now a foaming, turbid torrent and at noon arrived at Knight's Ferry at noon.  The weather is still rainy but I found my horse in a better condition than I left her, so I determined to push on home.  Taking my Rifle, Saddle-bags and bag of Boots (which I found very inconveniant), I mounted my steed and started towards the snow-covered Mountains, which are not a long distance off.  At dusk I arrived at the Tuolumne House where I put up for the night.  After supper the Landlord treated all hands to the best the house afforded, of both eatables and drinkables, that they might be better able to celebrate Christmas Eve. that was now passing away.  Except myself, all present were in <HI REND="italics">high spirits</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This morning the people here seem somewhat ashamed of last night's proceedings, but console themselves by saying that Christmas comes only once a year.  I pay 25 cts per lb for hay for my horse, and $1.50 per meal for my food, and as the expenses are thus very high I started out in the midst of a severly cold rainstorm for home.</p><P>The road is in such a terrible condition that my horse cannot go faster than a walk, which is very tedious for me in the face of this severe tempest.  At 3 P.M. I arrived at Don Pedro's Bar and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:baited my horse while I went around to the miner's cabins selling my papers of which I sold quite a number.<ANCHOR ID="n92">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n92">Names for Pierre ("Don Pedro") Sansevain, a French pioneer of 1839, who mined here in 1848, and was a member of the constitutional convention.  On the Tuolumne River the Don Pedro Reservoir now covers the site of the old mining camp.  <HI REND="italics">California Place Names</HI>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">January, 1853<LB>Jan. 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I have sold my Rifle for $20. more than I gave for it, my boots at 100 pr ct profit and most of my papers also, so that the heavy expenses of my journey are more than paid from the profits already.</p><P>For the last 30 days it has rained almost incessantly, so that this creek is higher than ever known before, and cannot be crossed, as there is no bridge &amp; it is impossible to ford it.  There is no provisions in town, nor can any arrive while the roads are in such a situation, and many miners are compeled to go to the cities in consequence.  The last flour that was in town sold for $130. per bbl. and hard bread for $1.00 per pound.  The City of Sacramento is completely inundated, the water being 18 inches higher than ever known before.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">10</HI>
072.sgm:<P>An evening or two since as a party of us were sitting up in our store until 11 or 12 oclock, we heard a stifled breathing of snuffling sound; but supposing it to be some hogs smelling about our tent, we did not mind anything about it.  But the next morning we found a man lying in his tent, (3 or 4 rods from ours), with his throat cut from ear to ear, and still tightly clenching the fatal instrument (a sharp case knife) in his hand.  He had rolled out of his bunk onto the floor, and the noise we heard must have been his last struggles for breath.  His partner was a venerable looking, white-headed old man, who lay in his berth on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:opposite side of the tent, and says he heard nothing of what took place.  The[y] were both criminals from Sydney, and had <HI REND="italics">drank</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">17</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night Brock's store was cut into through the canvass, and a trunk containing $1600. was taken from the sleeping apartment, a room about 8 x 12 feet over his kitchen, in which R R Brock, Granville Dodge, Edmund Foster and Thomas C. Connor were sleeping at the time.  A ladder put together with ropes was used in climbing up on the outside to where the trunk was, with only a thickness of canvas to protect it from invaders, although as Connor lay on the floor his head must have touched it.  The citizens turned out in all directions, and soon found the trunk with the valuables abstracted, in a deserted cabin.  No clue can be obtained of the theives, although Connor is suspected of being an accomplice.  Foster lost about $300. that he had deposited in the trunk.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Mr Doty came over from Chili camp and will spend a few days with us.  He has a severe boil on his hand.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Mar. 20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Late last evening, as a party of us were sitting around our stove, we were suddenly disturbed by a howling of dogs.  Upon going out to ascertain the cause, we found a mad dog chasing and biting every animal he could come across.  We armed ourselves, and went out in search of the brute, and although several good shots were obtained we did not succeed in killing him.  The next morning all the dogs in town, except those chained were shot, and also one hog that was running mad.  The dog that caused all this disturbance was killed at Colorado Bar by a miner.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Mr Cruikshank and his partner found a "chisper," or lump of gold &amp; quartz, weighing 15 1/2 lbs.  They found it on Gentry's Gulch, about 8 miles from here, lying on the top of the ground, near the trail where hundreds of persons had passed.  Upon breaking up the "piece" they obtained 135 oz's gold of which I got a few specimens.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Mr Hilliard has sold out to me and this morning started for San Francisco, via Sonora, on his way home.  The reason of his starting so suddenly is because he has received intelligence of the severe illness of his mother, and he fears he shall never see her again alive.  He carries about $1650. in Gold dust with him and the good wishes of us all.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>A violent rainstorm is raging which makes business quite good in town.  Last night Mrs Coulter presented her husband a fine little daughter, this being the second birth in town.  The other was a daughter of Mr &amp; Mrs Carman's, born about 3 months ago.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">May 6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Received a letter from Hilliard dated "San Francisco Apr 30," stating that he was about to embark on board the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June 15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>A few days ago James Shimer and I started from here in the morning for Chinese Camp, to take the stage the next morning for Stockton.  I carried 8 lbs of Dust for Mr Brock, and 10 lbs for myself, and found it a great burden as I walked the whole distance, 25 miles, in the hot sun.  In fact I galled my feet so that I did not get over it for a long time.  Took the stage the next morning as I intended, and arrived at Stockton in season to take the boat for San Francisco.</p><P>Spent the next two days there in purchasing goods, of which I purchased about $1200. worth, among which are tools and hardware sufficient for erecting a wooden building for me next fall.  I also purchased a large quantity of preserved provisions, fruits, &amp;c.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>I came to Stockton, and shipped my freight to Coultersville with Shimer's goods at 3 cts per lb.  Then took the Stage for Green Springs from where I walked to Coultersville.  The freight arrived a few days afterwards, some of it in a damaged condition.  Albert Cleaves is at work on the mountain Ranch getting out lumber for my new house.  During my absence Wm Norton takes charge of mystore.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July 4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>A public dinner and Oration came off here today with great <HI REND="italics">eclat</HI>
072.sgm: and was quite a celebration for this country.  Tickets for the dinner are $5.  There are a great many persons here from the surrounding mining region.  Towards night, everybody had celebrated so <HI REND="italics">hard</HI>
072.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">freely</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I bought of Lewis Anderson 1/10 of the Virginia Vein, and 1/4 of the Texas Veins for $1200.<ANCHOR ID="n93">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: He was owing me about $135, the remainder of which I paid him in cash.  This is my first dealing in Quartz property although I have been frequently advised to purchase.  G. Dodge commenced work on my house today, while J. W. Clark who has recently come in here, is his partner, and is working his mining claim.  I pay Dodge $6. per day and board.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n93">The Virginia was a large outcropping quartz vein in Mariposa County from which a good deal of gold was mined.  <HI REND="italics">Resources of the Pacific Slope</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">31</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Tore down my old house and am therefore oblidged to suspend business for the present.  We are putting up the new frame on the site of the old one.  The old building was 18 ft square with an L, while the new one will be 24 feet square, with an L and a chamber.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sept. 4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>While shingling the roof with Dodge I was partially sun struck, and for 2 or 3 days lay on the floor of my new house, nearly crazy with the brain fever.  I finally got bled very powerfully, when I felt a little easier, and the desease of my brain left there and settled in my right ear causing a total deafness there.<ANCHOR ID="n94">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I pay $16. per load for hauling my lumber 4 miles, and very small loads at that.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n94">Brain fever was what is now known as acute cerebral meningitis.  It may be derived from a shock, from inflammation in adjacent structures, or from tuberculosis.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">October, 1853<LB>7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Opened my house which I like very much, as I now have a comfortable bed in my little chamber which is much better than to sleep on the ground, or counter, without any mattrass, as I have done for the last 18 months.  Trade is good.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In company with Mr Shepard, Wm.Norton, Mr &amp; Mrs Coulter and baby and son <HI REND="italics">George</HI>
072.sgm: (who I carried), I started on horseback for Green Springs.  We left Coultersville at 3 P.M., took tea at Don Pedro's Bar, and at 10 oclock arrived at Green Springs, where we found everybody retired.  But upon makingknown our wants, we were speedily furnished good lodgings and our weary animals, good stabling.</p><P>The next morning at sunrise we took the stage for Stockton in season to arrive there before the full heat of the day set in.  Immediately went to San Francisco, made my purchases, shipped my goods, and arrived home in less than a week.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>While at work cleaning my lamps J Hilliard came in, very much to my surprise and joy.  He left N York the 1st of Oct. and has had therfore a very short, and he tells me a pleasant trip.  His mother has recovered and now enjoys very good health.  So he has returned to take up his abode in Cal. for an uncertain length of time.  In answer to my thousand questions in regard to the folks at Nashua, he reports favorably, except in Josiah's case, who he says is very sick, and fears he will not recover soon.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Nov. 7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I have hired Hilliard one month for $100.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This is Thanksgiving, which is celebrated by us by partaking of a dinner of wild ducks roasted, stewed quails, mince pie and a very fine watermelon just picked from the vines, all of which we heartily enjoyed.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">December, 1853-April, 1854<LB>Dec. 7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I have hired Hilliard for $80. per month and board until Spring.  This town is much improved of late, there being several new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Feb. 20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Quartz Mill one mile below here, that has been in process of erection for the last 8 months costing some $80 000., started on today on trial, so I went down to witness it.  The Engine is from England, of 80 horse power, and works finely, and the prospect is that the Mill will be successful.  The machinery and buildings are built very firm and must be capable of great wear.<ANCHOR ID="n95">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n95">This was a stamping mill for crushing the quartz ore.  Quartz mining required more capital, more expensive machinery, and more scientific knowledge than placer mining, but essentially the processes were similar.  After quarrying, the gold-bearing quartz was broken to the size of a hen's egg and pulverized.  At first the crushing was done with heavy stones in the arrastra or in the Chilean mill.  But by 1861 95 per cent ofall quartz was pulverized by stamps.  The stamps were wooden shafts shod with heavy iron shoes, and driven by machinery.  The quartz was pulverized either wet or dry, but in either case water and quicksilver were generally used in the stamping box to carry away and amalgamate the gold.  The amalgam was caught in a coarse blanket or cowhide, washed from time to time, and retorted, or washed over a sluice box, as in placer mining, where the amalgam was caught behind the riffle bars in the bottom of the sluice.  Probably from 10 to 20 per cent of the gold was lost in both placer and quartz mining, but improved methods in quartz operation have been devised since the gold rush.  Improvements are in methods of separation; stamping the ore remains an important step in the process.  See <HI REND="italics">Mining in the Pacific States</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Mar. 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Being 21 years of age I was drafted as juryman on a case before the Justice (G. W. Harrison), a few days ago.  Hilliard has been to Mariposa and ascertained that Wm. Ward is intending to return to Nashua about May 1 and I am hoping to settle my business so as to accompany him.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">April 23</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last evening, Knowlton, Ward and his partner came over from Mariposa on their way to Sonora.  They departed this morning for Sonora, where Ward will take the stage for Stockton day after tomorrow, where I shall meet him, and the other two will return to Mariposa.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>After settling up my business as much as possible, I am at length ready to start home.  It is now 2 1/4 years since I left Nashua last &amp; the friends have been urging my return for some time.  It is but a short time since I heard of brother Josiah's death, which came upon me so sudden and afflicting, that I desire to be with my friends and kindred, and not be a wanderer in this cold and wicked world.  I have given a power of attourney to J Hilliard, giving him full and unlimited charge of my property which consists of the Store &amp; goods, Quartz, (from which I have already rec'd $350.) notes &amp; accounts, &amp;c.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>At 9 A.M. after receiving the good wishes of the people here (especially of Genl. G. W. Harrison), I set forth in company with R. R. Brock &amp; Mr Nelson for Green Springs.  As my horse walked slowly up that beautiful valley, I looked back at my house, the place that for 2 long years had been the scene of my labors, toils, anxieties and privations.  And now at the hour of departure, my heart ached at the thought of bidding adieu to that loved spot and to this lovely vale now clothed in her richest garb of green interspersed with myriads of wild flowers, the almost intoxicating perfume of which is wafted along on the gentle morning breeze, while the feathered songsters are making the air resound with their melodious praises to their Creator.  And to bid adieu to long-tried and true friends, and to some of them <HI REND="italics">forever</HI>
072.sgm:, was a thought that almost overpowered me.  As I rode along, a feeling of gloom and lonliness came over me, which I could not entirely dispel, for I was now leaving a home that I had built up and established here in the wilds of Cal by my own energies and exertions.</p><P>But we were soon engaged in enlivening conversation as we dashed along past those venerable hills and forrests that I was now viewing, perhaps for the last time.  I had with me as the result of my two years labor, 190 ounces Gold dust and a check on W. B. Agard, the Agent of the quartz Co. payable June 15.  We were all armed with Colt's Revolvers, besides Brock's dog "Top," who was a noble animal, and would have done us good service had it been required.  I took these precautions, as a great many Mexicans knew of my coming away with money, and I determined to be prepared for whoever I might meet.  At 11 we arrived at Don Pedro's Bar where Mr Nelson remained, while Brock &amp; I pushed on to Green Springs where we arrived at 4 P.M. after a hot and dusty ride.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Arose early and took breakfast.  Then settled with Brock, paying him $10. for his services, besides the Hotel bill which was $9.  At 7 A.M. the Stage came along for Stockton, on which I took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:passage, while Brock returned to Coultersville.  Arrived at Stockton at 3 P.M.  Left my "dust" at the store of Ruggles &amp; Nudd<ANCHOR ID="n96">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: and put up at the Weber House.<ANCHOR ID="n97">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: In the evening went to the City Hospital and made enquires after John Watson of Nashua who died here last Feb. of Lung difficulty.  A Mr Kingsley was with him in his last hours, and took possession of his effects.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n96">Ruggles, A. D. Nudd &amp; Company were at 2 Merchants' Row.  <HI REND="italics">Stockton Directory</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n97">R. Manning, proprietor; corner of Main and Centre streets.  <HI REND="italics">Stockton Directory</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I saw Mr Quigley and Esquire Hart.  And in the afternoon Robert Perkins of Coultersville, with his two slaves, arrived from Sonora on their way to North Carolina.  I visited Mr Kingsley (from Manchester), who is an engineer in a flouring Mill.  From him I gained some information in regard to the sickness and death of J Watson.  At 4 P.M. took passage in Steamer <HI REND="italics">Sophie</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">27</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Arrived here at San Francisco this morning and put up at the Franklin House where I found Ward.  After breakfast got my money from the safe of the <HI REND="italics">Sophie</HI>
072.sgm: and got my trunk also at the hotel, when I went to the U. S. Branch Mint to get my dust coined.  But as it could not be done for a week, I concluded to carry it to N York with me.  Accordingly sold 20 oz's to Wells, Fargo &amp; Co to defray my expenses home.<ANCHOR ID="n98">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: I tried to get my Draft discounted but could not short of 10 per ct per month so I left it in the hands of Page, Bacon &amp; Co for collection and remittance.<ANCHOR ID="n99">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n98">"Wells, Fargo &amp; Co's New York, California and European Express and Banking Company.  Capital $500,000...Express Buildings, Montgomery Street...dispatch an Express, in charge of special messengers, on Each of the regular Steamers running between New York and San Francisco, both by the Panama and Nicaragua Routes.  Treasure and small parcels received for shipment by either route up to the latest moment.  Insurance effected in the Best Companies..."  <HI REND="italics">LeCount &amp; Strong's San Francisco Directory for the Year 1854</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n99">Page, Bacon &amp; Co., Bankers, Montgomery, Corner of California Street, San Francisco, Draw at Sight, or on time, in sums to suit, on London, New York, Boston, Philadelphia...Gold Dust and Exchange Purchased at Current Rates."  Ibid., p. 28 (advertisement).  A complete list of banking houses in San Francisco will be found in this directory on p. 232.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">28</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Steamers <HI REND="italics">Uncle Sam, Panama</HI>
072.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Cortes</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">29</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Mr Ward &amp; I bought 2d Cabin Tickets on the Steamers <HI REND="italics">Uncle Sam</HI>
072.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">North Star</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">30</HI>
072.sgm:<P>I attended divine service at the 1st Baptist Church both in the morning and evening.  Rev Benj. Brierly (formerly of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:Manchester) is the pastor.<ANCHOR ID="n100">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: The number present was not large, but the services were very interesting.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n100">"First Baptist Church--Washington, Street, between Dupont and Stockton, Services at 11 A.M. and 7 1/2 P.M. Sabbath and Bible Class at 2 1/2 P.M. Rev. B. Brierly Pastor; residence, Jackson Street, three doors from Powell Street."  Ibid., p. 238.</NOTE>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">May, 1854<LB>May 1</HI>
072.sgm:<P>John S. Holmes of Paris Me., Mr Lund of Nashua and Robert Perkins and his slaves took passage in Steamer <HI REND="italics">Cortez</HI>
072.sgm:.  Ward &amp; I got our baggage on board the <HI REND="italics">Uncle Sam</HI>
072.sgm: in good season;<ANCHOR ID="n101">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: and I deposited my money with the "Purser" for safe keeping, taking his receipt for the same, and paying 1 pr ct therefore.  After the usual confusion and excitement of such an occasion, at 4 P.M. we cast off from the wharf which was completely crowded with spectators and put to sea.  About the time of leaving the cheering was so enthusiastic that most of us made ourselves [hoarse].  Capt J. M. Aikin was present to witness the departure of his brother for the "States."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n101">Wooden side-wheel steamer, 1,433 tons, designed to carry 800 passengers.  <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The Steamers <HI REND="italics">Cortes &amp; Panama</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">2</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The sea is tolerable smooth, with a light breeze in our favor.  It is quite cool on deck, so that most of the passengers remain below.  I am troubled with sea sickness today although not severly.  Saw a schooner to the Eastward.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">3</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The weather remains rather cool with a smooth sea.  Quite a number of the passengers are sea-sick.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">4</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Fine comfortable weather with light breezes in our favor.  At noon the distance from San Francisco is 700 miles.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">5</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Passed in sight of Maguerreta Island where the Steamship <HI REND="italics">Independance</HI>
072.sgm: was lost with 150 lives last summer.<ANCHOR ID="n102">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Distance run 245 miles.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n102">This was one of the most terrible of all maritime disasters in the fifties.  The <HI REND="italics">Independence</HI>
072.sgm: (Vanderbilt's Independent Line) struck a sunken reef about a mile off Margarita Island, off the coast of Lower California; the sea was smooth, the time was just before dawn February 16, 1853, and the atmosphere was perfectly clear at the time.  As she was being beached about five miles from the place where she first struck, it was discovered that the vessel was on fire and panic seized the ship.  Almost half of the 400 persons aboard perished.  <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francisco</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">6</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At sunrise passed Cape St Lucas.  Fine weather and light favorable winds.  Distance run 278 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">7</HI>
072.sgm:<P>In the morning divine service was held on the quarter deck, one of the stearage passengers, who is an aged Methodist preacher, officiating.  The Capt (Wm Mills) attended with marked interest, and I presume is a proffesser of religion.  In the afternoon came in sight of the Mexican coast and find the breeze blowing off the coast to be very warm and fragrant.  I now sleep on deck nights instead of the confined place allotted to us.  Distance ran 250 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">8</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night passed a Steamer bound to San Francisco.  Fine weather and warm, and are running in sight of the mountainous coast of Mexico.  In the Afternoon passed in sight of the high peaks of land near Acapulco.  Distance run 261 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">9</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This morning a young married Lady died of consumption, and was immediately buried in the ocean with the usual ceremonies.  The prominent head lands of the coast are just visible in the N.E.  At 4 P.M. the thermometer stood at 90&deg; in the shade.  Distanc run 250 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">10</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The sea is smooth and glassy, and the sun burning hot.  In the evening, it clouded up and we saw severe Lightning.  Latt 13-21, Long 94-14.  Distance run 255 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">11</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night we had a fine shower, and this morning the air is pure and much cooler, the thermometer standing at 95&deg;.  Sea is smooth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">12</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Last night a fireman died of heat and over exertion, and this morning was buried with the usual ceremonies.  The day is cloudy which terminated in a shower very much to our comfort.  Saw a great many whales.  Latt 9-50, Long 86-16.  Distance run 240 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">13</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Saw the land last night, and also this morning.  At noon saw two vessels inshore of us.  In the afternoon saw very high land, and at 3 P.M. passed between the Island of Montiosa and the main land, while two hours after we were dodging among the Quibo Islands.  The weather is misty and showery.  Latt 7-44, Long 82-44.  Distance run 240 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">14</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 3 A.M. doubled "point Malo," and entered the bay of Panama.  At noon passed the Island and town of Taboga, exchanging salutes with the new Steamer <HI REND="italics">Sonora</HI>
072.sgm: lying here, and at 1 P.M. came to anchor abreast of Panama.</p><P>The crowd was so great to get ashore that Ward and I did not land until 4 P.M. and then in different boats, the one in which I came being so leaky, that one man was oblidged to bail constantly to keep her free.  We sent our baggage to Aspinwall by Express paying 15 cts pr lb, and then put up at the American Hotel, paying for Supper, Lodging and Breakfast $3. in advance.  Several started across to the Railroad on foot, but it soon came on to rain, and we were glad we were not of that number.  At noon Distance run 264 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">15</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Slept with my money under me, as there are about 20 lodgers in the same room, and the house is accessible to all the bandits of the Isthmus.  We were awakened by the gong at 1 A.M. to prepare for breakfast, which was served an hour and half afterwards and was the most disgusting meal I ever saw.  Then Ward, Mr Stevens <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:of Ind. and I hired mules for $15. each and started across to Obispo.  We had only proceeded 10 or 12 miles when Ward's mule became so exhausted that he could go no farther, and he was oblidged to walk. 2 or 3 miles farther on my mule gave out and I was oblidged to go on afoot, but Mr Stevens kindly carried my 15 lbs of gold for me on his mule, while I kept along as fast as his mule would go.  But it soon set in to rain and the roads being very bad I blistered my feet severly, the distance seeming very long.  But at noon our drooping spirits were revived by hearing the familiar tone of a locomotive for the first time in 2 1/2 Years.<ANCHOR ID="n103">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: And hurrying on we soon arrived at the Depot where a large number of our passengers were waiting to take passage in the 2 oclock train for Aspinwall.<ANCHOR ID="n104">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n103">The Atlantic terminus of the railroad was at Navy Bay, said to have been discovered and named by Columbus on his third voyage.  It was a much better anchorage than the open roadstead at Chagres.  Clearing at Manzanilla Island had begun in May 1850, and the first train of working cars had passed over the rails to Gatun October 1, 1851.  On January 27, 1855, the last rail was laid and the following day an engine crossed from the Atlantic to the Pacific.  Fessenden Nott Otis, <HI REND="italics">Illustrated History of the Panama Railroad</HI>
072.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n104">The little settlement which grew up at the docks on Manzanilla Island in Navy Bay was not given a name until February 1852, when it was formally called Aspinwall after William Henry Aspinwall, the chief member of the firm of Howland and Aspinwall, and president of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company (1848-56), whose vision and enterprise had made the Panama railroad possible.  <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At the appointed time the train, consisting of 8 long passenger, and 3 baggage cars, started for Aspinwall.  The distance is about 30 miles and the fare $12 1/2.  We arrived at our destination at 5 1/2 P.M. after a pretty ride through very romantic scenery.  I deposited my dust at the Rail Road Office, and put up at the "Gem House" and soon after came across Mr Ward who unknowingly to me came down in the same train.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">16</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Came across Joseph. F. French of Haverhill, Mass. with whom I became acquainted at Long Bar.  Also his partner Isaac--.  They arrived at Panama 3 weeks ago in the Steamship <HI REND="italics">Santiago</HI>
072.sgm: from Callao, Peru, where they arrived in a ship from Australia, where they have been mining for the last year with good success.<ANCHOR ID="n105">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: They saw Fred. A. Crosby, formerly of Coultersville, at Callao where he afterwards died of yellow fever.  French thinks of going back to Callao to open a clothing store, and says it is a beautiful climate, the conveniances of living are excellent and the pecuniary prospects good.  He goes to N York in the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Illinois</HI>
072.sgm: which sails in a few days.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n105">The great rush in Australia began in August 1851 with the discovery of gold first at Ballarat, then later in the Mt. Alexander region, and in 1852 at Bendigo and the Owens River, all in the colony of Victoria.  The influx of foreigners, though perhaps 15,000 per month in the last four months of 1852, mostly from the British Isles and Europe, never approached the magnitude of the California immigration.  Victoria had by 1855 grown from less than 100,000 to over 400,000, and in 1856 the colony became self-governing under its new constitution.  William P. Morrell, <HI REND="italics">The Gold Rushes</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This town is located on low, marshy land and must be unhealthy, and also a very disagreable place to reside in, the weather being hot, sultry and showery.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>At 3 P.M. the Purser of the Steamer <HI REND="italics">North Star</HI>
072.sgm: notified the passengers to come on board tonight.<ANCHOR ID="n106">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm: Accordingly I got my "Dust" from the kind hearted old man at R.R. Office, who congratulated me on my success and charged me to be careful not to lose it, and delivered it to the Purser of the <HI REND="italics">North Star</HI>
072.sgm:, taking his receipt and paying one per ct freight.  At 6 P.M. the cars came in with the remainder of the passengers, and all the baggage.  Consequently all hands rushed to the Express office to be the first to get their baggage, fearing that all would not have time, before the Steamer sailed.  But the Capt of the <HI REND="italics">North Star</HI>
072.sgm: came in and told us that all should have ample time.  The process of delivering so large a quantity of luggage by the single package promised to last a long time.  So I bribed one of the attendents to bring my trunk from the farther end of the room where it lay, so that I got it by waiting an hour while many were compeled to wait 6 or 7 hours.  I then took my trunk on board the <HI REND="italics">North Star</HI>
072.sgm:, found my berth and went to bed.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n106">Wooden side-wheel steamer, 1,868 tons, built in 1853 for Cornelius Vanderbilt and used as a private yacht for a European excursion.  She entered New York-Aspinwall service for Vanderbilt in February 1854 and was later (Sept. 1854-Jan. 1855) operated for the United States Mail Steamship Company.  <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">17</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Arose early, went on deck and found we were at sea, with the high lands of the Isthmus looming up astern.  The weather is fine, but very warm, and the sea smooth.  At noon made 101 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">18</HI>
072.sgm:<P>Steering N.N.E. with quite a heavy Easterly wind, but towards night both wind and sea calmed down.  Distance run 260 miles.</p><P>Since leaving San Francisco I have become acquainted with a young man named Chas. A. Barkley of Mok Hill and formerly of N York where he is now going to visit his friends.  Also with Ephraim Case, of Bradford Co. Pa, who wishes to sell me his Ranche on the Sacramento and Jackson road, called the "Keystone Ranche" for $4900.  Geo W. Morriss of Ind also came with us from S.F. who went up from Panama to S.F. 2 years ago in the <HI REND="italics">Fremont</HI>
072.sgm:.  An Italian is on board, who found a lump of pure gold weighing 25 lbs at Columbia.  He is now a lunatic and confined on board, and report says the reason of it is that he has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">19</HI>
072.sgm:<P>During the night and this morning the sea is quite rough, with a heavy head wind, and frequent showers.  At 10 A.M. made the Island of San Domingo and 3 hours later came abreast of it, and only 3 miles distant, so that we could see the smoke curling upwards from the cabins which were concealed from our view by the tropical foliage.  Distance run 255 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">20</HI>
072.sgm:<P>As my berth is near the engine room I was awakened at 5 o'clock this morning by a violent ringing of the signall bell, upon which the Engines were immediately stopt and reversed.  I immediately went on deck and found that the steamer was heading on to rocky beach which was not 1/2 a mile distant.  The rock-bound coast extended round on each side, on which the breakers dashed their foam high in the air, and had the Steamer gone on 5 minutes longer probably a large number of our 1200 passengers would have been lost.  The Steamer backed about a mile, then altered her course and pursued her way.  The cause of this circumstance was that the night had been dark and foggy so that nothing could be seen until the fog lifted just in season to prevent our noble steamer from being dashed in peices on the rocks, and this being a dangerous locality in consequence of the numerous Islands and the heavy wind a beam which had drifted us out of the course intended.  At noon saw low land on the starboard beam.  The sea is quite rough, with a heavy head wind.  Saw a brig on our larboard beam.  Distance run 244 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">21</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The sea is quite rough and a gale is blowing from the S.E.  At noon saw a schooner close-hauled on our Starboard beam.</p><P>It being Sunday the Purser distributed tracts among the passengers, it being too rough and wet to hold divine worship.  Distance run 250 miles.  Distance from N. York 875 miles.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">May, 1854<LB>22</HI>
072.sgm:<P>A heavy sea running with occasional showers.  At 10 A.M. met a large Barque on our larboard side.  In the evening the wind died away.  Latt 30-22, Long 74-04.  Distance run 252 miles.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">23</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The weather is very fine and the sea is tolerable smooth, but the Steamer rolls heavily in consequence of running in the trough of the sea.  Latt 34-47, Long -- --.  Distance run 265 miles.  In the afternoon passed close to a ship and a barque both bound South and towards night saw a number of sail.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">24</HI>
072.sgm:<P>The weather clear and beautiful and a smooth sea so that our steamer is gliding along the water very fast.  Passed very near to several vessels and was spoken by Pilot boat No 6, but did not patronize, as there is a pilot on board who was brought from N York the last outward passage.</p><P>At 10 A.M. I counted 30 vessels in sight, and an hour later came in sight of Barnegat, passing up in full view of the low Sandy shore of New Jersey.  At noon we were within 10 miles of the high lands of Navesink, having made 291 miles the last 24 hours.  At 3 P.M. the Steamer came to at Quarrentine where we were detained 2 hours in landing 4 sick persons, 2 Girls &amp; 2 boys, all of one family, who had lost their father and mother on the Isthmus by Panama fever, and which now had prostrated them.</p><P>In going up to the city I got my money from the Purser who strictly charged me to be very careful and not get victimized out of my money in this great metropolis.  At 6 P.M. made fast along side the wharf, but the crowd was so great that we did not go ashore until 7, when we took a carraige for Lovejoys Hotel.  But finding they were full, we finally put up at Wilsons Hotel for the night.<ANCHOR ID="n107">*</ANCHOR>
072.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n107">Lovejoys Hotel at 34 Park Row, corner of Beekman Street, was owned and operated by James S. Libby who was also president of the 6th Avenue Railroad.  William Wilson kept a hotel at 127 Liberty Street.  <HI REND="italics">The New-York City Directory for 1853-1854</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">25</HI>
072.sgm:<P>This Hotel is supported and carried on by a rowdyish class of people and therefore we took measures to repel any attack that might be made, for they knowing we were from Cal. would naturally suppose we had money.  But we passed the night in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:safety and [paid] our bill, which was outrageous, glad to get away from such a set of Sharks at any price.  We went down to Wall St to sell our dust but found the banking houses not yet opened.  So we got some clothing, took a bath, &amp;c. and then sold our "Dust" to Beebee &amp; Co.  I had 170 oz's which I sold at 17.60 and Ward had 72 oz's for which he got $17.65 per oz his being much better than mine.  I took a check on Gilbert &amp; Sons of Boston for $2900, Ward taking all his in cash.  After dinner, we looked about the city until 4 P.M. when we took passage on the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Connecticut</HI>
072.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">26</HI>
072.sgm:<P>At 8 1/2 A.M. we arrived at Nashua in safety and found the friends glad to see us.  But I miss Josiah.  He is gone.</p><P>Mr Dotty arrived home about a month ago and is now at work for A Willoughby in the shoe business.  Stilman is at work in Barr &amp; Co's Store, Mial is clerk for S. N. Wilson &amp; Co, and George is in the bookstore of W. R. Wilcox.</p></DIV>
072.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
072.sgm:<P>Abbotts, of Long Bar, 63<LB>Acapulco, Mexico, viii, xi, xiii, 11-12, 35, 65-67, 98<LB>Adams, Samuel, of Chelmsford, Mass., 22, 23<LB>Adams &amp; Co., bank, San Francisco, 32, n.49<LB>Adams's, below Gorgona, 54<LB>Agard, W. B., 95<LB>Agua Fria, near Mariposa, xiii, 76, n.80<LB>Aikin, J. M., captain, 97<LB><HI REND="italics">Albany</HI>
072.sgm:, 52<LB><HI REND="italics">Alert</HI>
072.sgm:, 29, n.45<LB><HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
072.sgm:, San Francisco, 66<LB>American Art Association, New York, xvii<LB>Anderson, Lewis, 92<LB><HI REND="italics">Anne E. Maine</HI>
072.sgm:, 28, 31<LB><HI REND="italics">Arctic</HI>
072.sgm:, 47<LB>Aspinwall, Panama, xiv, 99, 100, n.104<LB>Astoria, Oregon, xi, 27, 28, 31<LB><HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
072.sgm:, xv<LB>Australian gold rush, 100, n.105<LB><HI REND="italics">A. V. Frazer</HI>
072.sgm:, 69</p><P>Baker, captain, 29<LB>Bancroft, H. H., historian, n.69<LB>Bancroft, merchant, of Long Bar, 23<LB>Baptist church, ix, 33, 48, 96-97, n.100<LB>Barkley, Charles A., of Mokelumne Hill and New York, 101<LB>Barnegat, New Jersey, 46-47, 103<LB>Barnum, P. T., x<LB>Barr, James H., of Nashua, N.H., 78, 79<LB><HI REND="italics">Bay State</HI>
072.sgm:, xiv<LB>Beard, E. L., captain of <HI REND="italics">Merchantman</HI>
072.sgm:, 25-32<LB>Bear Valley, near Mariposa, 75, 76, n.79<LB>Bee Bee &amp; Co., New York, xiv, 46, 104<LB>Belknap and White, San Francisco, 69<LB>Benicia, NE of San Francisco, 33, n.52<LB>Berry, captain of <HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
072.sgm:, 51, 52<LB>Birmingham, England, xv<LB>Blodgett, of Nashua, N.H., 74<LB><HI REND="italics">Blonde</HI>
072.sgm:, 56, 58<LB>Boynton, of Sonora, 76<LB>Branch's Ferry, Tuolumne River, 79, 80, 81, 84<LB>Brierly, Benjamin, reverend, of Mass., 96<LB>Brock, R. R., storekeeper, Coulterville, 83-85, 90, 91, 95, 96<LB>Brooklyn, New York, 50<LB>Brown, Jacob C., of Iowa, 23<LB>Brumagim.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
072.sgm: Cunningham &amp; Brumagim, bank<LB>Buel, William F., colonel, 69</p><P>Cady, auctioneer, of New York, 23<LB><HI REND="italics">California</HI>
072.sgm:, xi, 8, 9, 31, 56<LB>California Steam Navigation Co., San Francisco, n.17<LB>Cape Antonio, Cuba, 44<LB>Cape Corrientes, Cuba, 67<LB>Cape Disappointment, Washington, 27<LB>Cape St. Lucas, 98<LB>Carlton, George, of Dracutt, Mass., 24, n.33<LB>Carman, Mr. and Mrs., of Coulterville, 91<LB><HI REND="italics">Carolina</HI>
072.sgm:, 12, 36<LB>Carr, George, 21<LB>Case, Ephraim, of Bradford Co., Penn., 101<LB>Catholic church, x, 10, 59<LB>Chagres, Panama, x, xvi, 6-7, 38-44, 53, 59, n.3, n.56<LB>Chagres River, Panama, x, xii, 54-55, n.3, n.6<LB><HI REND="italics">Chatsworth</HI>
072.sgm:, xv<LB><HI REND="italics">Cherokee</HI>
072.sgm:, 38-41, 59<LB>Chili Camp, near Coulterville, xiii, 72, 77, 81, 82, 83, 84, 90<LB>Chinese Camp, near Sonora: mines of, 70, 71, n.74; Chinese Diggings, 71; xiii, 91<LB>Cholera, xvi, 12, 84, n.13<LB>Clark, J. W., of Nashua, N.H., 49, 58, 92<LB>Clarks Point, 26, 31, 97<LB>Cleaves, Albert, 92</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">C. M. Webber</HI>
072.sgm:, 86, n.91<LB>Cole, captain of <HI REND="italics">Tennessee</HI>
072.sgm:, 11, 12<LB>Colgate University, Hamilton, New York, xiv<LB>College of California, Berkeley, n.16<LB>Collins, J., captain of brig <HI REND="italics">O</HI>
072.sgm: --, 31<LB>Colorado Bar, 90<LB><HI REND="italics">Columbia</HI>
072.sgm:, 30<LB>Columbia, Calif., 77, 80<LB>Columbia River, Wash., 28, 30<LB><HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
072.sgm:, 12, 36<LB>Commercial Wharf, San Francisco, 31<LB><HI REND="italics">Commodore Jones.  See Jack Hays</HI>
072.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Connecticut</HI>
072.sgm:, 47, 104, n.62<LB>Connor, Thomas C., 90<LB><HI REND="italics">Coosa</HI>
072.sgm:, 32<LB><HI REND="italics">Cora</HI>
072.sgm:, 56<LB>Cordua's Bar, Yuba River, n.21<LB>Corning, captain of <HI REND="italics">Culloma</HI>
072.sgm:, 27<LB><HI REND="italics">Cortez</HI>
072.sgm:, 96, 97<LB>Coulter, Mr. and Mrs. George M.: son born to, 91, 93; Coulterville named for, n.77; n.90<LB>Coulterville: Stephen's store at, 77-94; flood at, 89; xiii, xiv, xvi, 74, 76, n.77, n.88<LB><HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
072.sgm:, 59<LB>Crooked Island, Bahama Islands, 6, 52<LB>Crooks, J. H., 46, n.61<LB>Crosby, David and Louisa: school of, viii, ix, xiv<LB>Crosby, Fred A., of Coulterville, 100<LB>Crow, butcher, of Shaw's Flat, 71<LB>Cruces, Panama, xii, 10, 36, 37, n.6<LB>Cruikshank, of Coulterville, 91<LB>Cuba: Havana, 44-45; Morro Castle, 44, 45; 6, 52<LB><HI REND="italics">Culloma</HI>
072.sgm:, 27, 31<LB>Cummings, George, of Tyngsboro, Mass., 48<LB>Cummings, Josiah, of Tyngsboro, Mass., 49<LB>Cunningham &amp; Brumagim, bank, Marysville, 24, n.32</p><P><HI REND="italics">Daniel Webster</HI>
072.sgm:, 51, 52<LB>Davis, Abbott, xvii<LB>Davis, George E., captain, Stephen's brother, viii, xvi, xvii, 104<LB>Davis, Josiah, Stephen's brother and his companion on first trip to California: 3-9, 13-22, 23, 24, 28-29, 31-49; in fight in Panama, 37; buys farm, 48, 49; death of, 94; mentioned, vii, viii, x-xii, xiii, 57, 93, 104, n.21, n.33<LB>Davis, Lucy, Stephen's sister, viii<LB>Davis, Mary S., of Groton, Mass., Josiah's wife, 32, 47, n.50<LB>Davis, Mial, Stephen's father, viii<LB>Davis, Mial, Stephen's brother, viii, x, 3, 104<LB>Davis, Stephen Chapin: first California-Oregon expedition, 3-47; in Northern Mines, 14-24; to Oregon, 25-31; second California trip, 50-104; in Southern Mines, 70-95<LB>Davis, Stilman, Stephen's brother: letter to, 56; viii, 77, 104<LB>Devant, Dr., of Long Bar, 16<LB>DeWitt, owner of <HI REND="italics">Merchantman</HI>
072.sgm:, 25, 26<LB>Dickinsons Ferry, on the Tuolumne River, 79<LB>Docks and wharves: at San Francisco, 31, 33, 69, n.47; at Panama, n.12; at Chagres, n.103<LB>Dodge, Granville, of Nashua, N.H., 49, 58, 74, 76, 79, 81, 82, 83, 90, 92<LB>Dodge, Horace R., of Nashua, N.H., 49, 58<LB>Dodge, Parker, of Nashua, N.H., 85<LB>Don Pedro's Bar, Tuolumne River, 85, 87, 93, 95, n.92<LB>Dos Hermanos, Chagres River, 54<LB>Doty, J. L., of Nashua, N.H., Stephen's stepfather, ix, xiii, 47, 71, 72, 77, 81, 82, 84, 90, 104<LB>Dow, John M., captain of <HI REND="italics">Fre&acute;mont</HI>
072.sgm:, 65, 68-69<LB>Dry Creek, Calif., 81, n.21<LB>Dudley, Dr., of Panama, 61<LB><HI REND="italics">Dudley</HI>
072.sgm:, ix<LB>Dutch Ranch, near Stockton, 79, 88<LB>Dysentery, xii, xvi, 12, 16, 32<LB>Eames, farmer, of Vermont, 48</p><P>Eastern Exchange Restaurant, Stockton, 78, n.82</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>East River: frozen over, 50<LB><HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
072.sgm:, 53, 63<LB><HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
072.sgm:, river steamer, 78, 84, n.84<LB>E. L. Morgan &amp; Co., San Francisco, 25, 34, 69<LB><HI REND="italics">Empire City</HI>
072.sgm:, 45<LB><HI REND="italics">Erastus Corning</HI>
072.sgm:, 78, 84, n.83<LB><HI REND="italics">Eudora</HI>
072.sgm:, 10<LB>Evans, George, of Manchester, N.H., viii<LB><HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
072.sgm:, 52, n.66</p><P><HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
072.sgm:, 10, 11<LB><HI REND="italics">Fashion</HI>
072.sgm:, 24<LB>Feather River, Calif., xi, n.19<LB>Ferriss, James H., of Triangle, Broom Co., New York, 10<LB>Fisher, Frank H., of Nashua, N.H., 49, 57-69<LB>Foster, Edmund, 90<LB>Foster, Mrs. John A., of Nashua, N.H., 102<LB>Fourteen Mile House, near Stockton, 70, 78, 80<LB>Fox, farmer, of Vermont, 48-49<LB>Fraser River gold rush, n.38, n.45<LB>Fre&acute;mont, John C., n.79<LB><HI REND="italics">Fre&acute;mont</HI>
072.sgm:, xiii, 60, 63, 64-69, 101, n.68<LB>French, James A., of Mass., 23<LB>French, Joseph F., of Haverhill, Mass., 100<LB>French Camp, near Stockton, 85, 86</p><P>Galveston, Texas, ix<LB>Gardiner, William, 79<LB>Gatun, Panama: fandango at, 54; 53-54<LB>Gentry's Gulch, near Coulterville, 91<LB><HI REND="italics">Georgia</HI>
072.sgm:, 45, 56-57<LB>Gilbert &amp; Sons, Boston, 104<LB>Glasgow, Scotland, xvi<LB><HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
072.sgm:, 36, 57, 69, 91<LB>Gorgona, Panama, x, xi, xii, 7, 37, 53, 54, 55, 57, n.5, n.6<LB><HI REND="italics">Gorgona</HI>
072.sgm:, 43, n.4, n.58<LB>Graves, J. H., Dr., ix<LB><HI REND="italics">Grecian</HI>
072.sgm:, 24<LB>Green Springs, near Coulterville, 92, 93, 95</p><P>Hager, Dr., owner of drugstore, Long Bar, 23<LB>Hager, George D., of Nashua, N.H., xiii, 66, 80<LB>Hager &amp; Kimball, Stockton, 84, 85, 86<LB>Haight, B. S., of New York, 50<LB>Hale, George, of Nashua, N.H., 71, 72, 77<LB>Hale, N. E., of Nashua, N.H., 74, 75<LB>Happy Valley, San Francisco, 13, 34, 69, n.15<LB>Harrison, G. W., general, justice of peace at Coulterville, 94, 95<LB>Harrison, of New York, 46<LB>Hart, Esquire, 96<LB>Havana.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
072.sgm: Cuba<LB>Heath &amp; Emory's Ferry, Stanislaus River, 79, 80, 87, n.85<LB><HI REND="italics">Hero</HI>
072.sgm:, xiv<LB>Hill, C. C. C., of Nashua, N.H., 76<LB>Hilliard, J., of Nashua, N.H., Stephen's business partner, xiii, xiv, 72-77, 78, 79, 81-85, 89, 91, 93, 94<LB>Hirst, George, teamster, 81<LB>Holmes, Charles, of Coulterville, 94<LB>Holmes, John S., of Paris, Maine, 97<LB>Hood, J. A., of Nashua, N.H., 74<LB>Hull, blacksmith, of Long Bar, 19, 21<LB>Humbug Flat, near Shaw's Flat, 71<LB>Humphries, teamster, of Marysville, 18, 22<LB>Huntington, Henry E., xvii<LB>Hurd, William, of Memphis, Tenn., 12<LB>Hutchings, James Mason, n.90<LB>Hutchins, E. G., Stephen's uncle, 21<LB>Hutchins, Thomas A., Stephen's cousin, 21-22, 24, 28-29, 32, 47</p><P><HI REND="italics">Illinois</HI>
072.sgm:, 100<LB>Inagua Island, Bahama Islands, 52<LB><HI REND="italics">Independence</HI>
072.sgm:, 98, n.102<LB>Indians, 28, n.43<LB><HI REND="italics">Isthmus</HI>
072.sgm:, 10, 64<LB>Isthmus Fever, 46, 57, 103</p><P><HI REND="italics">Jack Hays</HI>
072.sgm:, former <HI REND="italics">Commodore Jones</HI>
072.sgm:, 24, n.35<LB>Jacksonville, Calif., 83<LB>Jamaica, 6, 52</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">James Farewell</HI>
072.sgm:, 42<LB>Jaquith, of Milford, N.H., 77<LB>Johnson, captain of <HI REND="italics">A. V. Frazer</HI>
072.sgm:, 69<LB>Johnson, George A.: at Humbug Flat, 71; at Coulterville, 76<LB><HI REND="italics">Josephine</HI>
072.sgm:, 63<LB>Justice in the mines, 21, n.30</p><P>Kendall, Jonas, xv, xvi<LB>Kennebec Bar, Yuba River, 19, n.21, n.24<LB><HI REND="italics">Keoka</HI>
072.sgm:, 27<LB>Kimball, Moses F., 71, 72, 77<LB>Kingsley, of Manchester, N.H., 96<LB>Kingston, Jamaica, 52<LB>Knight's Ferry, Stanislaus River, xiii, 71, 85, 87, n.73<LB>Knowlton, J. B., of Nashua, N.H., 76, 82, 94</p><P>Langdell, John and Joseph, of Nashua, N.H., 74, 79<LB>La Roche, Oregon, 29<LB>Lick, James, 22, n.31<LB>Liverpool, England, xv<LB>Locke, D. J., Dr., 9<LB>Locke, L. F., Dr., Nashua, N.H., 9, n.9<LB>Long Bar: Stephen's store at, 16-24; viii, xi, 14, n.21, n.24<LB>Long Island Sound: frozen over, 50<LB>Long Wharf, San Francisco, xiii, 33, 69, n.47<LB>Lopez, Narciso, n.60<LB>Lopez affair, 44-45, n.60<LB>Lossee, J. L. Doty's partner, 72<LB><HI REND="italics">Lot Whitcomb</HI>
072.sgm:, 30<LB>Loud, S. D., of Amesbury, Mass, 15<LB><HI REND="italics">Louisiana</HI>
072.sgm:, 27<LB>Lumber: prices of, 85, n.89; mentioned, xi, 28, 29, 84<LB>Lund, of Nashua, N.H., 97</p><P>McCall, John, 55<LB>McKay, Hugh, n.45<LB>McKenzie, George, of Halifax, N.S., 30<LB>McLoughlin, John, Dr., n.46<LB>McQuestion, of Nashua, N.H., 47<LB>Madison University.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
072.sgm: Colgate University<LB><HI REND="italics">Major Thompkins</HI>
072.sgm:, 32<LB>Manchester, England, xv<LB>Manning, R., n.97<LB>Margarita Island, off the coast of Lower California, 98, n.102<LB>Mariposa: Stage, 79; xiii, 72-73, 75, 76, 79, n.78, n.81<LB>Martin, N. C., of Nashua, N.H., 63, 69<LB><HI REND="italics">Mary Melville</HI>
072.sgm:, 28<LB><HI REND="italics">Mary Pope</HI>
072.sgm:, 14<LB>Marysville, Calif., xi, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20-21, 23, 24, 32, n.19, n.20<LB><HI REND="italics">Mary Taylor</HI>
072.sgm:, 27<LB>Maxwell's Creek, Coulterville, location of Stephen's store.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
072.sgm: Coulterville<LB>Measles, 57<LB><HI REND="italics">Medway</HI>
072.sgm:, 41-42, 44<LB>Merced River, Calif., 75<LB><HI REND="italics">Merchantman</HI>
072.sgm:, xi, 25-32, n.38<LB>Middleton, William, of Virginia, 19, 21<LB>Mills, William, captain of <HI REND="italics">Uncle Sam</HI>
072.sgm:, 98<LB>Milton, Oregon, 28, 29, 30<LB>Milwaukie, Oregon, 28, n.44<LB>Mining operations:  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
072.sgm: nn.22, 23, 25, 28, 78, 89, 95<LB>Moccasin Creek, Calif., 73<LB>Moffat &amp; Co., San Francisco, 25, 34, n.37<LB>Mokelumne River, Calif., xiii, 21<LB>Monterey, Calif., 34, 69<LB>Montiosa Island, 99<LB>Morriss, George P. [or George W.], of Indiana, 69, 101<LB>Mount Bolivar, Panama, 10<LB>Mountain Brow, near Stanislaus, 71</p><P>Nashua, N.H., viii, x, xii, xiv, 47, 49, 93, 94, 104<LB>Nelson, of Coulterville, 95<LB>New Diggings Ranch, near Stockton, 79, 81, 84<LB><HI REND="italics">New Orleans</HI>
072.sgm:, 58<LB>Newspaper sales, viii, x, 3, 9, 12, 13, 19, 20, 87, 88, 89<LB><HI REND="italics">New World</HI>
072.sgm:, 33, n.51<LB>New-York-of-the-Pacific, on Suisun Bay, 70, n.70</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Niagara</HI>
072.sgm:, xvi<LB><HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
072.sgm:, xiii, 65, 66<LB><HI REND="italics">Northerner</HI>
072.sgm:, 13<LB><HI REND="italics">Northern Light</HI>
072.sgm:, 80<LB><HI REND="italics">North Star</HI>
072.sgm:, 96, 101-103, n.106<LB>Norton, William, Coulterville, 92, 93<LB>Oak Springs, between Chinese Diggings and Shaw's Flat, 71</p><P>Obispo, Panama, xiv, 100<LB><HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm:, 41, 43, 44-45, 60, n.59<LB>Olover [Oliver?], of Maine, 13<LB>Oregon, xi, xii, 21-22<LB><HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
072.sgm:, 33-36, 40, 41, n.53<LB>Oregon City, Oregon, 30, n.46<LB><HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
072.sgm:, n.4<LB>Ousley's Bar, Yuba River, 14, 19, n.21</p><P><HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
072.sgm:, 47, 65<LB><HI REND="italics">The Pacific</HI>
072.sgm:, newspaper, 34<LB>Pacific Mail Steamship Co., 60, n.11, n.52, n.53, n.55<LB>Page, Bacon &amp; Co., bank, 96, n.99<LB>Palenquilla, Chagres River, 54<LB>Panama, vii, viii, x-xi, xii, xiii, xiv, 7-12, 33, 34, 36, 37, 55, 56-64, 65, 68, 69, 96, 97, 99, n.6, n.8, n.12, n.69<LB><HI REND="italics">Panama Echo</HI>
072.sgm:, xi, 9<LB>Panama Railroad, 99-100, n.103<LB>Parker, Thomas, deacon, of Dunstable, Mass., 49<LB>Parkhurst, William, of Dunstable, Mass., 49<LB>Parkinson, John, 58-69<LB>Parkinson, William G., of Baltimore, Md., 13<LB>Parkman, Francis, n.1<LB>Parkman, George, Dr., 3, n.1<LB>Parks, David, n.21<LB>Parks' &amp; Cordua's Bar, Yuba River, 15, 19, n.21<LB>Pen&tilde;on Blanco House, near Coulterville, 74, 88, n.76<LB>Perkins, Robert, of North Carolina, 96, 97<LB>Peyton, of Stockton, 70<LB><HI REND="italics">Philadelphia</HI>
072.sgm:, x, 3, 45, n.2<LB>Pierson, R. H., captain of <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
072.sgm:, 33<LB>Point Lobos, near San Francisco, 25<LB>Point Malo, Panama, 11, 36, 99<LB>Point Reyes, north of San Francisco, 31<LB>Portland, Oregon, xi, 24, 28, 30<LB><HI REND="italics">Prometheus</HI>
072.sgm:, Vanderbilt's ship, 52, n.66<LB>Pyramid Rock, on Columbia River, 28</p><P>Quartz veins, 72, 92, n.78<LB>Quibo Islands, 99<LB>Quigley, merchant, of Coulterville, 84, 96<LB>Quigley, old miner, 73</p><P>Ramirez, Padre, n.16<LB>Ridley's Ferry, Merced River, 75, 76<LB>Rincon Point, San Francisco, 13, 26<LB>Riot at Chagres.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
072.sgm: Chagres<LB>Robbins, Frank, of Nashua, N.H., 85<LB>Robinson, John, of Nashua, N.H., 49<LB>Roby, Henry, of Nashua, N.H., 49<LB>Roby, Tolles, of Nashua, N.H., 49<LB>Rose's Bar, Yuba River, xi, 15, n.21<LB><HI REND="italics">Rowena</HI>
072.sgm:, 61<LB>Ruggles and Nudd, Stockton, 96, n.96</p><P>Sacramento: flood at, 89; xi, 14, 19, 20, 22, 24, 32, 70, n.18<LB>Sacramento River, xi, n.17<LB>St. Helen's, Oregon, 30<LB>San Diego, 34, 68<LB>San Domingo, 6, 52, 102<LB>San Francisco: fire at, 24-25, n.34; vii, viii, xi, xiii, 9, 13-14, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 28, 32, 33, 68, 77, 78, 79, 80, 84, 85, 86, 91, 93, 96-97<LB>San Joaquin River, 70, n.17<LB>San Juan: fandango at, 53; 52-53, 65<LB>Sansevain, Pierre, n.92<LB>Santiago, Calif., 77<LB><HI REND="italics">Santiago</HI>
072.sgm:, 100<LB><HI REND="italics">Sarah Sands</HI>
072.sgm:, 10, 11<LB>Sausalito, 27, 34, n.40<LB><HI REND="italics">Scargo</HI>
072.sgm:, 32<LB><HI REND="italics">Sea Gull</HI>
072.sgm:, 31<LB>Seaman, J. W., Stockton: livery of, 80, n.87<LB>Senter, of Nashua, N.H., 47<LB>Shasta Mines, Oregon, xi, 28, n.43<LB>Shaw's Flat, near Sonora, xiii, 70, 71, 72, 76, 77, n.72</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
072.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
072.sgm:<P>Shenck, captain of <LB><HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
072.sgm:, 41, 43, 46<LB>Shepard, of Coulterville, 93<LB>Shimer, James, 91<LB>Sicard's Bar, Yuba River, 15, 16, 19, n.21<LB><HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
072.sgm:, 60<LB>Simonds, captain of <HI REND="italics">Medway</HI>
072.sgm:, 41<LB>Smallpox, 53, 57, 81<LB>Sonora, Calif., xiii, 70, 72, 75, 76, 77, 83-84, n.75<LB><HI REND="italics">Sonora</HI>
072.sgm:, 99<LB><HI REND="italics">Sophie</HI>
072.sgm:, 80, 85, 96, n.86<LB>Spaulding, Abel, of New York, 3<LB>Spect, Jonas, n.21<LB>Split-Rock Ferry, Merced River, 75, 76<LB>Spring, William, n.45<LB>Springfield, Calif., 77<LB>Stair, Alexander, friend of George Coulter, 85, 88, 89, n.90<LB>Steerage fares, xiv, xv, 3, 7, 14, 20, 24, 44, 50, 53, 56, 57, 61, 63, 64, 66, 87, n.17<LB>Stetson, of Coulterville, 85<LB>Stevens, of Indiana, a companion across Isthmus, 99-100<LB>Stevens Bar, Tuolumne River, 73, 83<LB>Stewart, Sumner, of Londonderry, Vt., 49, 52, 58-63<LB>Stockton: flood at, 86; xiii, xiv, 70, 74, 75, 77, 78, 80, 81, 82, 84, 85, 86, 91, 92, 93, 96, n.71<LB>Stone, Ashley, of Wilmington, Vt., 16, 17, 19-23, 47-49<LB>Sutter's Mill, near Coloma, ix<LB>Swetzer, of Portsmouth, N.H., 45-46</p><P><HI REND="italics">Taboga</HI>
072.sgm:, 56, 57, 61, n.67<LB>Taboga Island, Panama, 36, 56, 57, 58-59, 61-62, 64, 99, n.52, n.55<LB>Taylor, William, of Nashua, N.H., 49; at Coulterville, 74<LB><HI REND="italics">Tennessee</HI>
072.sgm:, xi, 11, 61, n.11<LB>Thanksgiving, 47-48, 93, n.64<LB>Tillamook Head [Killinook Head], Oregon, 27, n.41<LB>"Travels in Oregon," article by Josiah Davis, 34<LB>Tuberculosis, xvi, 98<LB>Tuolumne River, 73, 79, 80</p><P>Umpqua Valley, Oregon, n.43<LB>Uncle Jeff's house, Long Bar, 16, 19, 23<LB><HI REND="italics">Uncle Sam</HI>
072.sgm:, xiv, 96-99, n.101<LB><HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
072.sgm:, xii, 50, 51-53, 56, 63, n.65<LB>United States Mail Steamship Co., New York, x, n.2, n.59, n.106</p><P>Vanderbilt, Cornelius, commodore, n.66, n.106</p><P>Wages, x, xi, 13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 25, 29, 32, 82, 83, 92, 93, n.88<LB>Ward, William, of Nashua, N.H., 76, 94, 96-100, 104<LB>Watlings Islands [Watkins Island], West Indies, 6<LB>Watson, John, of Nashua, N.H., 96<LB>Webster, John White, Dr., 3, n.1<LB>Webster, Kimball, of Hudson, N.H., 24, n.33<LB>Wells, Fargo &amp; Co., bank, 96, n.98<LB><HI REND="italics">West Point</HI>
072.sgm:, 32, n.48<LB><HI REND="italics">West Wind</HI>
072.sgm:, 59<LB>White &amp; Storm, San Francisco, 32<LB>Wilcox, W. R., owner of bookstore, Nashua, N.H., 104<LB>Willey, Samuel Hopkins, reverend, 13-14, 34, 69, n.16<LB><HI REND="italics">Williamette</HI>
072.sgm:, 28<LB>Willoughby, A., of Nashua, N.H., 104<LB>Wilmington, Vt., 48<LB>Wilson, deacon, of Wilmington, Vt., 48<LB><HI REND="italics">Wilson G. Hunt</HI>
072.sgm:, 24, n.36<LB>Woodbury, Dr., of Nashua, N.H., 49, 74, 82, 83<LB>Woods Creek, Calif., 83<LB>Wyman, Joseph, of Nashua, N.H., 49, 55, 85</p><P>Yates, J. W., captain of <HI REND="italics">Dudley</HI>
072.sgm:, ix<LB>Yellow Fever, 57, 100<LB>Yosemite Valley, n.90<LB><HI REND="italics">Yuba</HI>
072.sgm:, n.19<LB>Yuba River, Calif., xi, 14, n.21</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-073</TITLE>
073.sgm:<TITLE>Alonzo Delano's California correspondence:  being letters hitherto uncollected from the Ottawa (Illinois) Free Trader and the New Orleans True Delta, 1849-1952. Edited by Irving McKee. Maps by Stewart Mitchell. Decorations by Harry O. Diamond: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
073.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
073.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
073.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
073.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
073.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>53-1743</LCCN>
073.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
073.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 85933</COPYRIGHT>
073.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:<P>Alonzo Delano's</p><P>California Correspondence</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:<P>Alonzo Delano's</p><P>California Correspondence</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:<P>Alonzo Delano's</p><P>California Correspondence</p><P>Being letters hitherto uncollected from the Ottawa (Illinois)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: and the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, 1849-1852.</p><P>Edited with an Introduction and</p><P>Notes by Irving McKee.  Maps by Stewart Mitchell.</p><P>Decorations by Harry O. Diamond</p><illus entity="a073-0003" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
073.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO BOOK COLLECTORS CLUB: 1952</p><P>Sacramento, California</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>PUBLICATION NO. 5</p><P>SACRAMENTO BOOK COLLECTORS CLUB</p><P>COPYRIGHT, 1952</p><P>SACRAMENTO BOOK COLLECTORS CLUB</p><P>MANUFACTURED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA</p><P>BY GRANT DAHLSTROM AT THE CASTLE PRESS, PASADENA, CALIFORNIA</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>Acknowledgments</p><P>AS IN the case of its previous publications, the Sacramento Book Collectors Club comes before its public with a co-operative enterprise.  The present work owes its inception to Mr. Harold Holmes, of Oakland, who first collected transcripts of Alonzo Delano's letters in Eastern newspapers.  At the timely suggestion of Mr. Walter Stoddard, Mr. Holmes then very generously turned these over to the Club, along with various photostats of the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:.  Mrs. Allan Ottley performed the arduous task of transcribing all the letters, and Mrs. Edgar Sayre arranged for photographic reproduction of maps, illustrations, and other material.</p><P>Of the many librarians who generously contributed, two at least must be named.  Mr. Arthur Whitenack, of Reddick's Library, Ottawa, Illinois, superintended the photostating of the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: letters and researched many local names.  Miss Caroline Wenzel and her staff in the California State Library provided the indispensable aid which apparently attends every work dealing with the Golden State's history.</p><P>To particularize our debt further would be to present a roster of the Club's members, all of whom extended advice and encouragement.<LB><HI REND="italics">The Book Committee</HI>
073.sgm::</p><P>MICHAEL HARRISON</p><P>MARION TINLING</p><P>IRVING McKEE</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Table of Contents</HEAD>
073.sgm:<P>Tehama Block-- <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: Depot--<LB>Sacramento City<HSEP><HI REND="italics">facing</HI>
073.sgm: xi<LB>INTRODUCTION<HSEP>xi<LB>1. St. Joseph, April 19, 1849<HSEP>1<LB>2. St. Joseph, April 21, 1849<HSEP>8<LB>3. English Grove, April 30, 1849<HSEP>12<LB>4. Harney's Landing, May 2, 1849<HSEP>15<LB>5. Lawson's Settlement, California, September 18, 1849<HSEP>16<LB>6. Sacramento City, September 30, 1849<HSEP>21<LB>7. Upper Diggings, Feather River, October 12, 1849<HSEP>22<LB>8. Valley of the Sacramento, November 19, 1849<HSEP>26<LB>9. Dawlytown, February 16, 1850<HSEP>36<LB>10. Sacramento City, March 2, 1850<HSEP>39<LB>11. Ottawa Bar, March 12, 1850<HSEP>46<LB>12. Ottawa Bar, March 22, 1850<HSEP>52<LB>13. Dawlytown, April 4, 1850<HSEP>61<LB>14. Oleepa, May 8, 1850<HSEP>64<LB>15. Oleepa, May 12, 1850<HSEP>69<LB>16. Yateston, June 14, 1850<HSEP>75<LB>17. Dawlytown, June 25, 1850<HSEP>77<LB>18. Stringtown, July 22, 1850<HSEP>81<LB>19. Stringtown, July 29, 1850<HSEP>84<LB>20. Independence, September 1, 1850<HSEP>88<LB>21. Independence, October 20, 1850<HSEP>94<LB>22. Marysville, October 31, 1850<HSEP>96<LB>23. Sacramento City, November 5, 1850<HSEP>99<LB>24. San Francisco, November 15, 1850<HSEP>101 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<LB>25. San Francisco, January 15, 1851<HSEP>105<LB>26. San Francisco, April 1, 1851<HSEP>108<LB>27. Grass Valley, Nevada County, June 11, 1851<HSEP>112<LB>28. San Francisco, June 13, 1851<HSEP>117<LB>29. Grass Valley, Sierra Nevada Quartz Mines, June 29, 1851  120<LB>30. San Francisco, August 1, 1851<HSEP>123<LB>31. Sacramento City, August 6, 1851<HSEP>128<LB>32. Grass Valley, August 30, 1851<HSEP>131<LB>33. Grass Valley, September 29, 1851<HSEP>134<LB>34. Shasta City, October 20, 1851<HSEP>138<LB>35. Parkman, Ohio, June, 1852<HSEP>142<LB>36. Parkman, Ohio, August 1, 1852<HSEP>144<LB>INDEX<HSEP>149<LB>MAPS<LB>From Ottawa to the Platte<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Front End Papers</HI>
073.sgm:<LB>From Nebraska to California<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Front End Papers</HI>
073.sgm:<LB>"Upper Diggings," Feather River<HSEP>xxvi<LB>The "Gold Lake" Country<HSEP>xxvi<LB>From Lassen's Meadows to the<LB>Gold Diggings<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Back End Papers</HI>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><illus entity="a073-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Tehama Block-- <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: Depot--Sacramento City.</p><P>THIS illustration appeared on the front page of the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, May 11, 1851.  It is a copy, with modifications, of a wood engraving reproduced in the Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:, March 31, with the comment: "The building measures 34 feet on Front street and 63 on J street.  The apartment occupied as the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: Depot, originally rented for $1,200 per month.  What its present rent is we are unable to say, but if newspaper literature pays a profit, the rent ought to be nearly as high as formerly, as from the Depot are issued semi-monthly, six thousand five hundred copies of the California <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, the best paper that comes to California."</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">True Delta's</HI>
073.sgm: chief modification of the <HI REND="italics">Union's</HI>
073.sgm: illustration was the introduction of figures hawking the New Orleans daily in front of the building.  One of these, the later caption informs us, is Alonzo Delano's friend, Colonel Joseph Grant: "The figures of the honest miners returning from the scene of their labors, with well filled pouches hastening to Col. Grant's office to exchange their dust for legal coin and <HI REND="italics">True Deltas</HI>
073.sgm: --the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: agents displaying the favorite she et, and the portly figure of the indefatigable Col. Grant, as he stands on the balcony with a pile of <HI REND="italics">True Deltas</HI>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Introduction</HEAD>
073.sgm:<P>"SIXTY, seventy, or eighty years ago, Old Block needed no introduction to his public."  Thus begins an account of Alonzo Delano<ANCHOR ID="ni-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: which is at once definitive and sympathetically humorous.<ANCHOR ID="ni-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: The present editor acknowledges at the outset a considerable debt to the late Ezra Dane, who first properly introduced California's genial and whimsical Forty-Niner to the twentieth century.  With charm and delicacy Dane invoked the magnificent nose, in spite--or because--of which Old Block became a prodigy fondly cherished throughout the State and a citizen deeply respected in Grass Valley.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-1">Pronounced DELLano.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-2">G. Ezra Dane, ed., <HI REND="italics">Alonzo Delano's Pen-Knife Sketches, or Chips of the Old Block</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Delano was born July 2, 1806, at Aurora, New York, the tenth of the eleven children of Dr. Frederick Delano and his wife, Joanna Doty.  The worthy physician was himself a great-grandson of Jonathan De La Noye, an offspring of French Huguenots.  De La Noye, in turn, was the great-great-great-great-grandfather of Franklin Delano Roosevelt.  Thus our humorist can be termed a third cousin, twice removed, of the thirty-second President.  And for three centuries the members of this prolific clan generally pronounced the name Delano as did the Roosevelts.<ANCHOR ID="ni-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-3">Joel A. Delano, <HI REND="italics">Genealogy, History, and Alliances of the American House of Delano, 1621 to 1899</HI>
073.sgm: (New York, 1899), 294-505.  The town of Delano in Kern County, however, is pronounced DeLAYno, although named in 1873 after another of Alonzo's cousins, Columbus Delano (1809-1896), Secretary of the Interior under President Grant.  Erwin A. Gudde, <HI REND="italics">California Place Names: A Geographical Dictionary</HI>
073.sgm:<P>But Alonzo knew nothing of his most illustrious American relatives; as Dane puts it, "he was the plainest of plain Americans."  Educated in the local academy, he embarked at the age of fifteen upon a career of counter-jumping which took him to various frontier settlements of Ohio and Indiana.  When he revisited his native Aurora in 1830 to woo and wed Mary Burt, he was a lean young man, some five feet ten inches in height, with brown hair and blue eyes--and a conspicuous nose.<ANCHOR ID="ni-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: He later recalled his amatory success with typical self-deprecation and gallantry: "I fooled one good looking girl, and pulled the wool over her eyes in such a way as to make her believe I was a handsome young scamp, and she took me for better or worse, and is now the mother of my children."<ANCHOR ID="ni-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: These <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:last, a son named Fred and a daughter Harriet, were born about 1833 and 1843 respectively, probably at South Bend, Indiana, where Delano conducted a general store.  July, 1848, found him at Ottawa, Illinois, presumably engaged in the same occupation; his social and fraternal success here is indicated by the fact that he was Noble Grand, or first officer, of the original Ottawa Lodge of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows.  Here he might have remained, except for two decisive circumstances: he was afflicted with consumption, and gold had been discovered in California:<ANCHOR ID="ni-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><P>My constitution had suffered sad inroads by disease incident to western climate, and my physician frankly told me, that a change of residence and more bodily exertion was absolutely necessary to effect a radical change in my system--in fact, that my life depended upon such a change, and I finally concluded to adopt his advice.  About this time, the astonishing accounts of the vast deposits of gold in California reached us, and besides the fever of the body, I was suddenly seized with the fever of the mind for gold; and in hopes of receiving a speedy cure for the ills both of body and mind, I turned my attention "westward ho!" and immediately commenced making arrangements for my departure."<ANCHOR ID="ni-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><P>Such was the spirit of this Argonaut, who fancied the man-killing California mining country as a health resort.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-4">Marion V. Conaway, Delano's neighbor at Grass Valley, 1870-1874, in a letter to Milton J. Ferguson, March 13, 1919, Ms. in the California State Library.  See also the caricature by Charles Nahl in <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-5">Alonzo Delano, <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains and Among the Diggings</HI>
073.sgm: (New York, 1936), 9-10.  This was originally published as <HI REND="italics">Life on the Plains and Among the Diggings</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-6">Mary Delano Fletcher, M.D. (1830-1914), a god-daughter of Delano, suggested the birth dates of his children and the nature of his illness in an undated letter to James L. Gillis, Ms. in the California State Library.  Harriet was nine years old in 1852.  <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:, 58.  For his Ottawa lodge, see <HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New, a Complete History of Ottawa, Illinois (Ottawa, 1912-1914), 156-157.</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-7"><HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>A "California Company" had been formed at Dayton, a village situated a few miles above Ottawa on the Fox River, under the command of "Captain" Jesse Green.  St. Joseph, Missouri, was to be the company's first place of rendezvous.  Being a man of some substance, Delano purchased cattle and a wagon, dispatched the first across country under hired escort, and shipped the second by water to St. Joseph.  In addition he engaged three young Ottawans, Matthew Harris, Robert Brown, and Eben Smith, to assist him on the journey and to repay him for their share of supplies and equipment with one half the profit they would earn during the first year away from home--"a contract which was then common."  Thereupon, with Harris, Brown, Smith, and a fourth Ottawan named Isaac H. Fredenburg as "the companions of my mess," Delano bade farewell to wife and children on April 5, 1849, and proceeded by wagon to Peru, Illinois, a day's ride down the Illinois River.  That evening they boarded the steamer <HI REND="italics">Revolution</HI>
073.sgm: for St. Louis.<ANCHOR ID="ni-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-8"><HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:<P>How or when Delano first manifested journalistic propensities we shall probably never know.  Certain it is, however, that before his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:departure he agreed with the brothers William and Moses Osman, proprietors of the Ottawa weekly <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, to write a "California Correspondence" in exchange for one or more mail subscriptions.  Besides penning the letters, he kept a journal which also appeared, in part, in the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, and he later simultaneously maintained a second correspondence with the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:.  The journal formed the basis of Delano's second book, <HI REND="italics">Life on the Plains and Among the Diggings</HI>
073.sgm: (1854).  But the thirty-six letters, of which he evidently did not retain copies, contain matter of such interest as to deserve rescue from the newspaper files in which they have lain, buried and forgotten, for more than a hundred years.</p><P>Dating from April 19, 1849, to August 1, 1852, they relate graphically the events of the river voyage to St. Joseph, the hazardous overland journey, and the sojourns in Sacramento, the mines, San Francisco, and points north.  The saving grace of humor, for which Delano was later to achieve fame under his <HI REND="italics">nom de plume</HI>
073.sgm:, is present in judicious quantities, but the letters are essentially serious and realistic.  For our correspondent was keenly aware that his public consisted of hardhanded farmers and merchants who looked for an accurate report of the pains as well as the pleasures of the adventure.  He thus turns appropriately from a sparkling narrative of coffee-making on an overcrowded river steamboat to the death by cholera of a member of a Virginia company: "The first use made of the spade that was taken to turn up the golden sands of California, was to bury one of their own companions amid the rocky bluffs of the Missouri" (April 19).</p><P>Scientific historians of the Great Gold Rush may discover little that is essentially new in the letters, but <HI REND="italics">aficionados</HI>
073.sgm: will detect an authentic flavor of considerable value.  For here we see the Forty-Niners close up, in their broadbrimmed hats, their checked and woolen shirts, and their high boots.  They are a patriotic lot, ready to chase all foreigners--whether Indian, Mexican, or British--out of their own California (in which they had not yet set foot).  But they are also peaceable and respectable, or as Delano writes, "they are almost entirely composed of energetic, well-informed, resolute law-and-order men, who have characters at home, and who cannot at once depart from the habits and mental training from childhood of a civilized and moral community" (April 21).  Like Delano, and like later generations of American voyagers, they yearn continually for mail from "the States;" upon quitting St. Joseph for the Indian country, our correspondent poignantly notes: "I got no letters from home and have not received the least word from any of my friends since I left, and now, probably, shall not" (April 30).  Ten months of toil and danger without a word from Ottawa lay ahead; only a vision as of the Promised Land sustained him and his fellows.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>The Dayton (Illinois) Company, with which Delano had cast his lot, committed two costly errors.  In attempting to follow the "Nemaha Cut-off" some distance north of St. Joseph, it got lost, and instead of saving time fell eight or ten days behind those who from the start had stuck to the St. Joseph Road.  Three harrowing weeks after having crossed the Missouri, the train at last found the Road, only to encounter two more weeks of cold and rainy weather which benumbed the emigrants' fingers "while pitching tents, guarding cattle, preparing meals, gathering fuel so scantily distributed, and a thousand <HI REND="italics">et ceteras</HI>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:acquaintance, he set out on October 1 for the "upper diggings" of the Feather River.  At Dawlytown, adjoining Bidwell Bar on the South Fork, Delano and Pomeroy opened a store on the 10th.<ANCHOR ID="ni-9">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-9"><HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>News went to Ottawa of deflated mining and inflated prices, the latter enabling the partners to show a profit of six hundred dollars in two weeks.  On October 25 Delano drove back to Sacramento to replenish their stock, but torrential rains caused the loss of an ox in fording the Yuba River and prolonged the return trip by six weeks, three of which he passed at "Mud Hill" near Oroville.<ANCHOR ID="ni-10">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: His letter of November 19 is replete with vivid details of that hard season, when poverty-stricken miners by the hundreds underwent exposure to the elements, malnutrition, and disease.  Back at Dawlytown, he found the camp largely deserted, Dame Rumor having lured the emigrants to the South Fork's upper reaches.  A bout with the ague detained Delano for three weeks; then on January 2, 1850, he set out with Pomeroy and two others for the latest El Dorado.  Laborious ascents through rain and snow brought them to two bars in the neighborhood of Stringtown, one of which they named Ottawa; in accordance with a new miners' "law," they commenced working the claims within ten days of discovery.<ANCHOR ID="ni-11">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-10"><HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-11"><HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:<P>At Mud Hill, Delano had met and been host to "Colonel" Joseph Grant, versatile agent of the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Daily True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: and a veteran of the upper diggings.  In February a gracious letter and a bundle of <HI REND="italics">True Deltas</HI>
073.sgm: --latest news from the States--arrived at Stringtown from Grant, now in Sacramento.  The letter asked Delano to undertake a California Correspondence for the benefit of a vast and expectant Louisiana public; his enthusiastic reply of February 16 is the first of eighteen letters published in the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:.  But the thrill of solicited authorship was nothing compared to the receipt, late that month, of his first letter from Illinois, from Mary Delano: "This I walked fifteen miles [to Dawlytown] to get when I heard of the arrival of the Express a week ago, and I would have walked a hundred for another with the greatest of pleasure" (March 2).  He returned to Ottawa Bar, where the company now apparently consisted of nine members, with redoubled vigor:</p><P>More labor, more exposure; but " <HI REND="italics">veni, vidi, vici</HI>
073.sgm:."  We took our rations again, and axes, and set out.  The logs were cut and rolled together, shingles split out of the beautiful pine and put on the roof, a large fireplace and chimney built, stools, shelves, bedsteads, and door made, &amp;c., &amp;c., all of which occupied about ten days, and it rained most of the time, while two more of the company were engaged in getting up provisions.  At last we were comfortably settled in the best quarters which I have found in California, with enough to eat, such as it is, a good roof over us, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:any amount of hard work before us, and perhaps not a dollar in either bar to repay our toil, or it may be a fortune (March 22).</p><P>High water prevented mining operations in April, and Delano visited mushrooming Sacramento, and then Marysville, where a thousand newcomers inhabited buildings of cloth and wood.  Five months before "but a single adobe house" had marked the place.  Here he witnessed a jury trial of two men caught red-handed in grand larceny; they were sentenced "each to receive one hundred lashes on the bare back, and, if found in town in the morning, a fine of a thousand dollars and two years' labor in the chain gang of San Francisco.  Sentence was immediately executed" (April 4).  As he adds, Delano himself was nearly " <HI REND="italics">strapped</HI>
073.sgm: " at the time, possessing a total capital of only thirty-two dollars--"enough to sustain me one week, as the price of board then ranged."  Nothing if not adaptaable, he set himself up in Marysville as a miniature painter ("having a little skill in drawing"); in three weeks, at an ounce a head, he cleared four hundred dollars.  Half of this went down the drain of speculation in "paper town lots."  The rest, in partnership with one T. E. Gray of Florida, he invested in a real estate claim on the Feather about twenty miles above Marysville.  Here, adjoining two villages of Indians, one of them called Oleepa, Gray and Delano determined to lay out a town, open a tent store and a tent hotel, and await customers.  In the course of these labors our correspondent exercised his talents as artist and physician (the latter a family inheritance) to win popularity among the scantily clad Oleepans:<ANCHOR ID="ni-12">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><P>There are about fifty naked wretches sitting on the ground in front of my building, in the sun, laughing, singing, and taking comfort, all playing the same tune and beating time with their hands on their bodies, for it is slap, slap, slap, as the tormenting mosquitoes bore into their naked, copper-colored hides (May 8).</p><P>A few days later he penned a semi-humorous account of how he successfully treated an inflammation behind Chief Oleepa's ear with horse liniment and an opium pill; this and other cures gained him such credit that he was able to report exhaustively on intimate observations of Maidu architecture, interior decoration, culinary arts, religion, dancing, dialects, burial rites, courtship, marriage, morals, gambling, and superstitions (May 12).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-12"><HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:<P>A letter dated June 14 is devoted to the fabulous Jim Beckwourth, Indian-fighter, scout, and explorer, who discovered a low-altitude pass over the Sierra subsequently named for him.  Another (June 25) recounts the strenuous but fruitless adventures of his friends, Colonel Grant and Captain John Freeland, in the Feather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:River diggings the previous November; it closes with a narrative of a bloody battle between emigrants and Indians in Nevada one summer day of '49.</p><P>The Oleepa business ended in financial failure.<ANCHOR ID="ni-13">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: During the last days of June I had my affairs in the Valley arranged and came here to superintend the working of this claim," Delano writes from Stringtown (July 22), in introduction of a series of narrow escapes--from a falling tree, a steep mountain precipice, and a scorpion's sting in the night.  A week later the humor waxes mellower as he describes the snug little cabin at Stringtown, its old-fashioned fireplace, bake kettle, and yeast pail, with which he is particularly familiar since "I am the cook."  Other furnishings include a library--a volume of Shakespeare, Goldsmith's <HI REND="italics">Vicar of Wakefield</HI>
073.sgm:, a work of natural philosophy, and a geological treatise--all of which he laboriously carried from St. Joseph.  An old violin hangs on the wall, and thereby also hangs the sad tale of old Turner, Henry County (Illinois) fiddler, who died in January and now lies buried in the hillside above the cabin.  Delano serves as juror in a civil action, weighing the conflicting claims of two mining companies; the verdict in favor of one is acquiesced in by the other without a murmur (July 29).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-13"><HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:<P>His own group, now comprising "four large messes or companies," invested "over thirteen thousand dollars in labor" at Stringtown, but no treasure revealed itself.  Meanwhile the notorious Gold Lake fever swept the diggings: up in the mountains northeast of Stringtown, some forty miles as the crow flies, there was a mountain full of gold and a lake lined with it.  Miners by the hundreds girded their loins for one more desperate sortie, and expeditions by the score converged upon the wilds north of the Yuba.<ANCHOR ID="ni-14">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Early in August, Delano hopefully formed a partnership with some friends at Marysville in a trading post to be established in the Gold Lake region.  Having secured a stock of goods, a junior clerk (American), and a muleteer (Mexican), he set out on August 14.  The journey over mountain trails occupied about two weeks, in the course of which three mules vanished, our adventurer dismissed the Mexican for insubordination, and precipices claimed their moiety of the goods.  But by September, Delano had established himself in a mountain camp on Nelson Creek called Independence Bar, with a thousand or two potential patrons around him.<ANCHOR ID="ni-15">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-14">Gudde, "Gold Lake," <HI REND="italics">California Place Names</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-15"><HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>"In this pure and bracing atmosphere there is no sickness," he announces to readers of the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, and then relates the hardships of newly-arrived emigrants who have barely survived the droughts and snows of 1850, only to face more formidable perils:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:<P>We shall see more suffering, more destitution this winter than there ever has been, and although there is gold in the mountains, the indefatigable attempt to get it of those who came a year ago without success, wheresoever courage, strength and manhood have been used to their full extent, surely should convince you at home that it is folly to forsake a living business at home and come here in the desperate search of gold.</p><P>Moreover, affairs in the Valley have deteriorated; "chill, fevers, ague, and flux" prevail, and the sanguinary Squatter Riots in Sacramento, August 14 and 15, involving the proponents and opponents of Sutter's Mexican land title, resulted in the killing of seven men, including the Sheriff, and the wounding of a half dozen others (September 1).<ANCHOR ID="ni-16">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: The gloom thickens in the ensuing weeks: "The miners have been mostly frightened away by a succession of stormy weather, rain in the valleys and snow in the mountains...I went out and rocked the cradle an hour or so for pastime, and got only twenty-five cents; so I gave it up."  He completely (but not irrevocably) loses faith in California: "Oregon will be the greatest of the two."  The only enjoyments left in life are sociable repasts with the miners and hours devoted to sketching the scenery and contemplating an excursion to Gold Lake and Gold Mountain (October 20).  This last is the subject of a letter full of geological observation (buttressed by the library) and unfulfilled yearning for treasure.  But the end of October finds him back at Marysville, "in the throng of civilized man--a washed, combed and shaven <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
073.sgm: " (October 31); the next week he is in Sacramento, "a citizen of the world with nothing to do"--but report on the living and dying during the city's great cholera epidemic (November 5).<ANCHOR ID="ni-17">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: The next day he is in San Francisco.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-16">Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-17"><HI REND="italics">History of Sacramento</HI>
073.sgm:<P>In this Phoenix of the Pacific (it had already burned down four times),<ANCHOR ID="ni-18">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Delano becomes "a dweller on Long Wharf, and a dealer in squashes and cabbages"--and correspondent for another newspaper.  This was the <HI REND="italics">California Daily Courier</HI>
073.sgm:, which, during the next two and a half years, published the <HI REND="italics">jeux d'esprit</HI>
073.sgm: to be collected in 1853 as <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches, or Chips of the Old Block</HI>
073.sgm:, his first book.<ANCHOR ID="ni-19">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: According to one contemporary journalist, he was well paid for the correspondence; more certainly, these refinements of his experiences in the upper diggings--for such they largely were--account for much of his subsequent reputation as co-founder with "John Phoenix" (George Horatio Derby) of California humor, "fluttering," as Ezra Dane analyzes it, "between absurdity and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xix</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:pathos."<ANCHOR ID="ni-20">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: The sojourn in San Francisco also resulted in three letters celebrating with appropriate irony the luxuries of city life as contrasted to the enforced asceticism of Independence Bar and environs.  A notable preliminary was the steamboat voyage down the Sacramento River financed by the genial Colonel Grant--"Everything in tip-top style, cabins, tables, staterooms, magnificent; cook, steward, chamber-boy, and waiter, civil and obliging, and the captain a gentleman."  Then comes the spectacle of the Bay, jammed with ships whose masts form "a vast forest of dead pines;" streets full of people wearing respectable clothes; "carts, drays, candy stands, bookracks, newsboys, and the Lord knows what all"--and a woman!  With Grant he visits the barque <HI REND="italics">Constance</HI>
073.sgm:, Captain John Barry, out of Salem; fries a mess of griddle cakes, and hears Captain Welsh's tales of the Ryukyu Islands (November 15).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-18">Frank Soule&acute;, John H. Gihon, and James Nisbet, <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francsico</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-19">San Francisco <HI REND="italics">California Daily Courier</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-20"><HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Weighing two seasons in the diggings, Delano finds he has nothing to show but a farm at Oleepa and memories.  He warns his New Orleans readers of imminent deflation in San Francisco (January 15, 1851) and his Ottawa public of inflated tales from the placers.  But after four months he alters his view of business prospects in the new seaport: "I think it must become one of the most important cities on the Pacific."  If only his wife and children were with him, he would prefer living here "to any town east of the Rocky Mountains."  He even promises not to return to Ottawa if Editor Osman will pass the hat and pay the three dependent Delanos' passage.  (Osman apparently preferred to have his correspondent come back.)  He describes the Oriental inhabitants, and Colonel Joseph Watkins of Virginia, who knew Jefferson and Marshall in the flesh, and he reports on the new (to California) science of quartz mining which promises to supplant the old placer (April 1).</p><P>Quartz mining brings him back for a brief visit to the diggings.  In March he became San Francisco agent for the Sierra Nevada Quartz Mining Company;<ANCHOR ID="ni-21">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: in June he locates a vein of quartz at Grass Valley for the company, sells out his stock of merchandise, and invests the proceeds in the vein.  "The desire for wealth brought me here," he writes from Grass Valley, "and the weary search for gold hath made misery often my companion; yet, although I have not been completely successful and have run many risks, I am not discouraged and will still plod on."  Thereupon follows an account of quartz prospects in the vicinity (June 11), filling a column and a half in the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:.  Meanwhile a fire devastated San Francisco in May;<ANCHOR ID="ni-22">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: having lost over twelve hundred dollars, Delano castigates <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:the criminal element which he believes responsible.  Then, temporarily re-established in his San Francisco office, he effectively defends himself against some vicious gossip:</p><P>As your country [Ottawa] is great for reports, I have been amused--not offended--at one I recently heard respecting myself and to this effect, "that Delano provided nothing for his family when he left home, that he has sent them nothing since he has been here, and that he traveled across the plains with another woman."  As for the first two, it may spoil a good story when I refer the lovers of the dark side to my own family for the truth of the two first counts, and for the third, I simply ask those who traveled in our train to state the facts.  As for women, I did save the life of one here in San Francisco, and gave her shelter and protection after the fire for two or three days, until she got a situation with Captain Sutter's family at one thousand dollars a year; and could you hear her story, it would be that of respect, and that even here a <HI REND="italics">man</HI>
073.sgm: may do a <HI REND="italics">good</HI>
073.sgm: deed which he may not blush to own.  Except for this one, who by circumstances was thrown upon my protection by a course of events--an interesting tale of itself--when a man should blush <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
073.sgm: to do as I did, and when I was encouraged by pious and good people of both sexes, there are not three other females in California that even know my name; and I do not blush, nor need any of my friends blush for any act of mine since I have been in this God-forsaken land, nor will they have occasion to.</p><P>From slanderers he turns to thieves and murderers who provoked the San Francisco Vigilance Committee of 1851; he applauds its necessary usurpation of powers maladministered by a corrupt executive and judiciary.  Felonies are again out of hand, but reports of rampant prostitution are exaggerated (June 13).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-21">His business card reads: "Sierra Nevada Quartz Mining Company--A. Delano, Agent--Office, opposite New World Hotel, on Long Wharf, where a large number of specimens can be inspected."  San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-22">This was the fifth of six "great fires," on December 24, 1849; May 4, June 14, and September 17, 1850; May 4 and June 22, 1851.  Soule&acute; <HI REND="italics">et al., Annals</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Around Grass Valley the peaceable miners, tending seven crushing mills, organized Vigilance Committees of their own: "One was formed here last night, and we are ready to pay our respects to all scoundrels who may be inclined to pay us a visit."  Prices are falling, but the miners raise their own vegetables.  "We have a daily stage and mail passing through from Sacramento City to Nevada City, although a year ago a road was not opened, and the Indians were killing and driving off the whites" (June 29).  A Vigilance Committee has commenced drastic operations in Sacramento (August 1).  Another "great fire," San Francisco's sixth in three years, has finally wiped out Delano's office there, but he consoles himself with a monthly salary of three hundred dollars now tendered him by the Sierra Nevada Quartz Mining Company in exchange for his services as its Grass Valley superintendent.  He bids farewell to the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: with a facetious epistle: "I find my time so much occupied that I shall be unable to continue my correspondence with your paper, and of course must relinquish all claim on you for sending <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:your paper either to me or to my friends on my account . . . There is lots of news, but the papers have it all, and letter-writers are getting below par.--Money is scarce and taters is fell" (August 6).</p><P>But there are five more letters to the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxii</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:again to California,"<ANCHOR ID="ni-23">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and the next month finds him at Parkman, Ohio, whence he addresses the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: once more on the subject of the Golden State: "California is indeed a great country, with a beautiful climate and fertile soil, and in this last particular I have been compelled to change my opinion."  He also feels compelled, however, to warn emigrants against the danger of surplus agricultural production, the scarcity of minable gold, and the ever-present hardships of the westward journey by whatever route: "I would rather take a family to California by the land route, provided the emigration <HI REND="italics">did not exceed ten thousand</HI>
073.sgm:, than through Central America, with the present facilities of traveling up the San Juan River and to San Juan del Sur" (June, 1852).  His last California Correspondence, also from Parkman, displays most confidence in the new State: "the elements of prosperity are at work which, in an unparalleled short period in the history of nations, must place it among the most prominent States of the Union for wealth and extensive business operations."  The final letter also foreshadows a new connection which was to sustain him for the next four years: "Livingston and Wells are known among the successful pioneers of expresses, and I see by the public papers that they are extending their operations by association to California under the name of Wells, Fargo and Company . . . Some of those connected with them I have known from childhood, and I speak understandingly when I say that more energetic, faithful, and perfectly responsible men do not exist in any express company than these" (August 1).  Delano failed to mention--perhaps because it might have given his letter an air of bias--the fact that he had been appointed Grass Valley agent for this company, organized by two fellow Aurorans, Henry Wells and Edwin B. Morgan, and William G. Fargo of nearby Auburn.<ANCHOR ID="ni-24">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-23"><HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-24">See the articles on Wells, Morgan, and Fargo in the <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Thus end the letters which concern us here.  While they reposed in the dust-gathering files of the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, their author prospered in the California mountain town of his adoption.  The Grass Valley <HI REND="italics">Telegraph</HI>
073.sgm: advertised him as agent for "Wells, Fargo &amp; Co.'s Express and Banking Exchange Office, opposite Beatty House, Main St."  Two events distinguished his tenure.  One morning during the financial panic of 1855 a throng of excited depositors pressed against the agency door while Delano pondered a message from his superior, the San Francisco manager, to suspend payment.  But when he opened the door at the appointed hour, according to the <HI REND="italics">Telegraph</HI>
073.sgm:, "he mounted the counter, and told the people to `Come on, he would pay out to the last dollar, and if that was not enough his own property should go.'  This, however, proved unnecessary, as he had more than sufficient on hand.  The confidence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:in the house was fully restored."<ANCHOR ID="ni-25">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: The timorous San Francisco manager was replaced and, two weeks later, the citizens of Grass Valley elected Delano their treasurer.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-25">Grass Valley <HI REND="italics">Telegraph</HI>
073.sgm:, February 27, 1855, as quoted in <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The second event was a fire which swept the town on September 13 and 14 following.  Not a single one of the three hundred buildings which had comprised the business section remained intact.  In later years the old inhabitants were to remember as the turning point in their despair an incident vividly narrated by Ezra Dane:</p><P>Something was moving down the hill from the west end of town.  It was a frame shanty, on rollers.  And who was the figure in the rumpled frock coat directing its progress?  A profile view identified him as Old Block, setting an example of California courage for the citizens.  A willing crowd gathered to assist in backing the building up against a brick vault, which was hot but still standing among the ruins where the express agency had been.  A few minutes later a ten-foot scantling was nailed over the door, roughly lettered "Wells, Fargo &amp; Co.'s Express Office"--and Old Block, so the county history tells us, "stood smiling behind his counter, amid the smouldering ruins and with the ground still warm beneath his feet, ready, as he said, `to attend to business.'"<ANCHOR ID="ni-26">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-26"><HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:, xvi. Cf.  <HI REND="italics">History of Nevada County</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Henceforth, with the honorary title of "Captain" (in deference to his leadership in '49), Delano somehow symbolized municipal progress.  But his fame was more than local.  The editors of the Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm: collected his <HI REND="italics">California Courier</HI>
073.sgm: pieces under the title <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:, with illustrations by Charles Nahl, in 1853; a second edition, without the illustrations, came out the following year.  Also in 1854 Delano's journal appeared, with revisions, as <HI REND="italics">Life on the Plains and Among the Diggings</HI>
073.sgm:.  And finally, the same year, he became somewhat ludicrously associated with the peripatetic dancer, Lola Montez, who, after entertaining San Francisco with her art and her history as a former mistress of Bohemian royalty, had come to Grass Valley to live with a newly acquired husband.  Too much the prima donna for her neighbors, however, Lola was soon being spoofed not only in the Valley but farther abroad--with Old Block as her "private secretary": "The Grass Valley <HI REND="italics">Telegraph</HI>
073.sgm: informs us," the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
073.sgm: gleefully informed the world, "that `the divine Lola,' in company with our friend `Old Block' and others, have gone to the Sierra Nevada Mountains."  Two weeks later, according to the same journal, Delano forwarded a complete account of his experiences in Lola's employ.  After the party crossed Donner Pass and encamped for the night, disaster struck: "Lola found vent, either for an exuberance of feeling or indignation, at the supposed want of consideration for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:her rank manifested by some of the party, by quarreling with her `private secretary' during the entire of one long, cold night; and the next morning a solitary horseman might have been seen descending the western slope of the Sierra Nevadas, in the direction of Grass Valley.  That man was the author of `Chips.'"  The party's cook also deserted, along with the pack mules, so that a very angry and hungry Lola walked into Grass Valley twenty-four hours later.<ANCHOR ID="ni-27">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: In various forms the story was retold for some years.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-27">San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Delano's prose and verse meandered through a number of publications, including the <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">California Farmer</HI>
073.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
073.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Telegraph</HI>
073.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Hesperian, Hutchings' California Magazine</HI>
073.sgm:, Edwin F. Bean's <HI REND="italics">History &amp; Directory of Nevada County</HI>
073.sgm:, and even the New York <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
073.sgm:.  In 1856 another collection entitled <HI REND="italics">Old Block's Sketch Book, or Tales of California Life</HI>
073.sgm: and a <HI REND="italics">jeu d'esprit</HI>
073.sgm: called <HI REND="italics">The Idle and Industrious Miner</HI>
073.sgm: came off the press.  The following year he published <HI REND="italics">A Live Woman in the Mines, or Pike County Ahead!  A Local Play in Two Acts</HI>
073.sgm:.  Although Delano originally composed this drama, apparently, for Lola Montez (perhaps as a peace offering), no record comes to hand of her having appeared in it; one historian indicates that it was performed in its author's time and another hails it as "the most distinctively Californian of the plays produced by the golden era."<ANCHOR ID="ni-28">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Finally, a pamphlet contrasting the old and new ways of going to California appeared with the title, <HI REND="italics">The Central Pacific, or '49 and '69, by Old Block</HI>
073.sgm:.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-28">George R. MacMinn, <HI REND="italics">The Theater of the Golden Era in California</HI>
073.sgm: (Caldwell, Idaho, 1941), 251. Cf. Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Democratic State Journal</HI>
073.sgm:, January 3, 1856, and Hubert H. Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Delano became a Master Mason and a member of the Town Council, and by 1856 achieved sufficient worldly success to resign the Wells, Fargo agency, open his own bank, and fetch his daughter Harriet from Ohio.  Mary remained there to care for their invalid son, Fred, who died about a year later; she then rejoined her husband and daughter at Grass Valley.  But tragedy struck the family again when Harriet lost her mind and had to be taken to an asylum near the ancestral home in New York.  This sad circumstance probably accounts for Delano's trip of 1866 to Nicaragua, whence he dispatched his humorless "Nicaragua Letters" to the <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:.  Five years after his return, in 1871, his patient wife died.<ANCHOR ID="ni-29">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-29">Mary Delano Fletcher, <HI REND="italics">op. cit.; Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:, xvi-xix; <HI REND="italics">Journal of Proceedings of the Grand Lodge of the State of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>With a cashier to manage the bank and a Chinaman to maintain his house, Captain Delano at sixty-five returned to his early faith in Grass Valley quartz mining, which he now backed with considerable investments.  In 1872, at Truckee, he married Miss Maria Harmon of Warren, Ohio, a handsome woman in her early forties; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxv</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:the Grass Valley <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm: was pleased to "chronicle the permanent addition to our society of a lady so well known and highly esteemed in our community."  The following year he lectured at Hamilton Hall, Grass Valley, on the community's glowing future in mining, but his bank fell into difficulty in 1874.  Suddenly his health broke, and he died on September 8 of that year, bidding Maria farewell with kind and courageous words: "Give my love to all my friends.  Tell them that I was not afraid to die, and that I left the earth without ill feeling towards anybody."  Almost the entire population of Grass Valley turned out for the funeral and burial, beside Mary Delano, in Greenwood Cemetery.  Although his affairs seemed unpromising at the time of his death, within two years enough was realized to pay the bank's depositors in full and to provide for his widow and unfortunate daughter.  And in the course of the next sixty years the mines of Grass Valley yielded more than a hundred million dollars.</p><P>"I don't suppose that California owes those hundred millions entirely to Old Block," Ezra Dane concedes, "but he deserves remembrance.  He was a courageous pioneer.  He loved and inspired his fellow men.  He was the first truly Californian man of letters, and no one has described or interpreted the human elements of the Gold Rush so sympathetically as he.  Moreover, he was a jolly good fellow if ever there was one, and as John Phoenix was forced to admit when they met, By Jove, he <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
073.sgm: have a big nose!"<ANCHOR ID="ni-30">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-30"><HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:, xx-xxii; Grass Valley <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm: and Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The California Correspondence is here collected as it appeared in the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:<P>I.<LB>St. Joseph, April 19, 1849.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<LB>GENTS OF THE <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm::--This is the first infliction of a deck passenger and you may wish it the last, but as the fault is your own, I shall offer no apology, and you must e'en be content to do as I am doing, "take it as it comes."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Published in the Ottawa (Illinois) <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, May 11, 1849.  This was a small-town weekly newspaper, Democratic by persuasion, owned and edited by the brothers William and Moses Osman.  Founded in 1840, the paper lived until 1926.  William Osman (1819-1909) was born in Pennsylvania, first became associated with the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: as a printer in 1840, and owned it (sometimes solely and sometimes in part) from 1848 until his death.  <HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New, a Complete History of Ottawa, Illinois</HI>
073.sgm:, 1823-1914 (Ottawa, 1912-1914), 28.  Delano's letters in the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: and in the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<P>You have "seen the Elephant"<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and know the cost of obtaining a sight at his Trunkship.  As for me, I have scarcely obtained a view of his shadow yet, but if "coming events cast their shadows before,"<ANCHOR ID="n1-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: in due time I hope to get in close proximity of his mammoth proportions.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">"When a man is disappointed in anything he undertakes, when he has seen enough, when he gets sick and tired of any job he may have set himself about, he has `seen the elephant.'"  George W. Kendall, <HI REND="italics">Narrative of the Texan Sante Fe&acute; Expedition</HI>
073.sgm: (Chicago, 1929; original ed., 1844), 138.  William Osman had served in the Mexican War; this may be the experience to which Delano refers.  <HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3">Thomas Campbell, <HI REND="italics">Lochiel's Warning</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The day I left Ottawa<ANCHOR ID="n1-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: was delightful overhead, but the soft soil of our beautiful prairies, hub-deep to the wagons, together with the pleasing antics of a baulky horse and the frequent opportunity of having my boots blacked with some of Nature's best--no thanks to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:the porter--as we lightened our load by jumping out into the deep, deep mud, proved that all was not gold that glittered.<ANCHOR ID="n1-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: At evening we went on board the good steamer <HI REND="italics">Revolution</HI>
073.sgm: and the next morning left Peru on our golden voyage.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-4">Thursday, April 5.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-5">Cf. Shakespeare, Globe ed., <HI REND="italics">The Merchant of Venice</HI>
073.sgm:<P>"Hung were the heavens in black,"<ANCHOR ID="n1-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and ere long a <HI REND="italics">revolution</HI>
073.sgm: took place overhead.  I have not the least doubt that the deluge was occasioned by the windows of heaven being opened.  It appeared to me that the flood gates were open now, for it literally poured; and I should think that twenty days of such rain would be sufficient to drown all the rats--two-legged as well as four, in Ottawa.  We had an agreeable company on board, however, a good captain and crew, and as it rained or poured only two days and nights of the four we were going down the river, I can't complain.  I do not intend to give you a sketch of the scenery along the Illinois River, as it is too familiar to the most of your readers; but I was utterly astonished at the vast multitude and height of the Indian mounds from Beardstown quite to the mouth.  I have often read of them but had never formed an adequate idea of their number.  Every prominent bluff seemed covered and attest that a dense population of a race, now unknown, once covered this beautiful region, and whose only history is written in these hillocks that crown the summits of the bluffs or are scattered over our rich prairies.<ANCHOR ID="n1-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-6">Cf. Shakespeare, <HI REND="italics">The First Part of Henry the Sixth</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-7">Artificial mounds are prevalent in Illinois, Ohio, Wisconsin, Missouri, Minnesota, Indiana, Mississippi, Florida, Virginia, and Kentucky.  Whether they were built by the Indians or a previous culture group is not known.  John H. Cornyn, "Mound Builders and Mounds," <HI REND="italics">Encyclopedia Americana</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Monday morning<ANCHOR ID="n1-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: dawned upon St. Louis with a washing-day face, and we poor miserable bipeds, as usual, had to "stand from under" or take a ducking.  The day was a busy one, however, for, as an excellent boat was advertised to leave for St. Joseph that evening, I was anxious to complete my outfit and ship my wagon on board of her.  I therefore adopted the Sucker mode of tucking the ends of my nether garments into my boots, took an umbrella and in company with Mr. Fredenburg,<ANCHOR ID="n1-9">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Mr. Thorn,<ANCHOR ID="n1-10">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and some others of our Ottawa friends set out in search of rations.  These we found advanced in price in consequence of so many calls for California; but by the hour of starting we were told that in consequence of the rain the <HI REND="italics">Embassy</HI>
073.sgm: could not complete her lading till the following day.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-8">April 9.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-9">Isaac H. Fredenburg (1815-1884), of Ottawa.  More familiarly "Fred," he was one of the four "companions of my mess."  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:, 1, 107.  Born in Ulster County, New York, Fredenburg operated the first ferry at the junction of the Fox and Illinois rivers in 1834.  He went to California twice, but finally settled down as a business man and deputy sheriff at Ottawa.  <HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-10">Benjamin Kent Thorn (1829 or 1830-1905).  He was born in New York State; in California he served for more than forty years as sheriff of Calaveras County, capturing many desperadoes, including the celebrated "Black Bart" (Charles C. Bolton).  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>There were large numbers of emigrants in the city, but not as many as I expected to find from previous accounts.  Some of the boats went out with large loads, while others had more moderate ones; but there is no doubt but many thousands will attempt to cross the plains.  I met acquaintances at every turn: in fact it seems that I met more than I knew--is that a bull?</p><P>On Tuesday evening, all being ready, we put out into the stream with three hearty cheers from over four hundred souls, which was returned with right good will by those on the shore, and the <HI REND="italics">Embassy</HI>
073.sgm: was plowing the "Father of Waters" loaded to the gunwale with passengers, whose vision rested on the golden heights of the Sierra Nevada or the sparkling dust in the Valley of the Sacramento.  Besides our own half dozen souls from Ottawa there were companies from Tecumseh, Michigan; Dayton, Ohio; Lynchburg, Virginia; Louisville, Kentucky; besides a right small sprinkle from all other places and no place in particular.</p><P>Feeling a little aristocratic, and not wishing to see the "elephant" too soon, I thought I would take a cabin passage.</p><P>"What is the fare to St. Joseph?" I asked the clerk.</p><P>"Eight dollars, sir," was his reply.</p><P>"Can you show me a stateroom?"</p><P>"They are all taken--not a berth left; but we can give you a good comfortable mattress on the floor.  You will be very, <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
073.sgm: comfortable!--In fact it's just as pleasant."</p><P>"Hem! yes, no doubt, I think I'll try the deck.  How much for a deck passage?"</p><P>"Three dollars, but it will be very unpleasant."</p><P>"No matter, it will go to break in, and I may as well begin now," and so I took a deck passage, and the difference in price I paid to insure my wagon and goods to St. Joseph.</p><P>And now a word as to the comforts of the cabin.  It is so full that many cannot get even a mattress to sleep on, and the long tables have to be set five times in succession before all can eat, and the air is so confined that several have left it and begged to sleep in the wagons on deck.</p><P>The discomforts of the deck are pure air, a large roomy wagon with an excellent cover over it, plenty of buffalo skins and blankets to sleep on; in short, a little territory of our own which is respected by all, with a good chance to boil your own coffee at a public stove, and the privilege to eat when and how you please.  It was a most fortunate hit for me this time, and I am now writing in my own wagon with as much ease and comfort as I could in your own office.  I have repeatedly had the offer made me to swap berths, but I have good and sufficient reasons to be content with what I have.</p><P>The day of our leaving, one of the Dayton (Ohio) Company had his leg broken by a fall on the boat.  The fracture was a bad one and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:he was left at St. Louis by his companions.  And another quite serious accident occurred before starting in the Virginia Company.  A thoughtless greenhorn wishing to display his skill with a pistol, on the upper deck, discharged it through the deck into the cook room where the ball lodged in the shoulder of one of the boys belonging to the boat.  The ball was cut out by a surgeon, and the skillful marksman had his passage money returned and was set on shore to follow on as best he could.  It has perhaps served as a lesson to others, and the exhibition of pistols, bowie knives, and such innocent toys are not quite so common as before.</p><P>We entered the Missouri, twenty-five miles above St. Louis, some time after dark, and daylight found us taking in wood some miles above the mouth of the river.  Now, then, came a serious question--who will make the coffee?  Our first night had passed pleasantly, and all slept well upon our buffalo couch; but a bracing atmosphere admonished us that we had stomachs which needed "wooding up" in order to keep the engine of life in full play.</p><P>"Give me the coffee pot," said Brown,<ANCHOR ID="n1-11">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: "I'll get some water."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-11">Robert Brown, of Ottawa.  He was one of the three young Ottawans whom Delano engaged to assist him on the overland journey and to repay him for his advances with one half the profit they would earn during the first year away from home.  But upon arrival in California, Brown left Delano and never repaid him.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>"I'll boil the coffee," says Fred.<ANCHOR ID="n1-12">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: "I'll see what chance there is at the stove."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-12">Fredenburg.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>"What's the matter, Brown?"  I asked as he came back with an empty coffee pot.</p><P>"Well, there's no water to be had; that's settled."</p><P>"No water?"</p><P>"Not the first drop, unless I take river water, and that's so muddy nobody can use it."</p><P>"No place at the stove--the Dutch and French have monopolized the whole," says Fredenburg in a pet--"there ain't a chance to light a pipe."</p><P>I never wanted coffee so much in my life.  I undertook to give up the use of tea and coffee about ten days ago, and drink cold water.  I had an ague chill and fever the same day; so I concluded to defer the experiment till I got on the plains.</p><P>"Give me the coffee pot," says I, and I went down to the pump with visions of flowing coffee bowls long past and gone dancing before me.  I seized the pump-handle desperately, filled my pot from the muddy stream, elbowed my way through the crowd of Europeans to the stove, and enquired of a mustachioed, bewhiskered item of mortality if he could " <HI REND="italics">parlez-vou Francais</HI>
073.sgm:?"  " <HI REND="italics">Oui, Monsieur</HI>
073.sgm:."  "Well, then, will you please to move your pan and give me a chance at the fire?"  (Qu.--Did you ever read the story of the Irishman and the gridiron?)  "Well," says I, "I can't, but move your dish so that I can boil my coffee," and suiting the action to the word, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:gave it a jog that made him understand what I wanted; and my effrontery gained me a share in the stove and a capital cup of hot coffee.  To be sure, the mud all settled to the bottom and left the "simon pure" at the top.  Having "got the hang of the barn," as the boy did of the schoolhouse, we have had no trouble since.--Did you ever have an appetite that would not be satisfied?  O yes, you have been to Mexico, and know the effect of air upon your gastronomic cravings.<ANCHOR ID="n1-13">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: For two years past I have suffered much ill health, with loss of appetite, and especially for the last two months.  But now, for the last four or five days, I am worse than a half-starved Indian.  I've an appetite like an ant bear, and if it continues when I get among the Eutahs, you may get some feeling remarks about the exquisite flavor of a baked papoose or a roasted Indian.  My health is decidedly improving.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-13">Cf. p. 1.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:used in such occasions at home, and when the corpse was lowered into the grave, and, by the faint twilight, a friend read the Episcopal funeral service, although it was in the midst of a drizzling rain, every hat was removed simultaneously, and every heart seemed softened with respect for the deceased and reverence for God.  How little can man foresee his own destiny!  How little is the thread of life!  The first use made of the spade that was taken to turn up the golden sands of California, was to bury one of their own companions amid the rocky bluffs of the Missouri.</p><P>In the midst of the succeeding night, the slumbering crowd were again awaked by an agonizing cry in the cabin, of <HI REND="italics">Heaven</HI>
073.sgm:, have mercy on me!  Spare me, O God!  They are coming!  They are coming!  Drive them off!  Don't you see them bite me?"  A miserable wretch was paying the penalty of intemperance and, in a fit of <HI REND="italics">delirium tremens</HI>
073.sgm:, fancied that snakes were crawling over him and grinning devils were coming to carry him off.</p><P>Our heavily laden boat is making slow progress against a strong current and a strong headwind, and our trip to St. Joseph promises to be about double the usual length of time.  Friday morning developed the fact that we had some of the sporting gentry on board.  One adventurer was fleeced of every farthing of his money at the card table, and two of the cabin passengers found their pockets cut by some scientific operator.</p><P>Finding our supplies of breadstuff too small for our long trip, our boys tried to replenish our larder at several little towns, but without success.  When we reached the beautiful town of Boonville, I thought I would try my luck.  When the boat touched the landing, I jumped off and made my way to a baker and laid in a good supply of eatables.  As I was going on board, I met Brown, who exclaimed, with a joyful countenance,</p><P>"Well, I've had good luck this time.  I've got ten loaves of bread, a host of rusk, and a lot of cake."</p><P>Just then Smith,<ANCHOR ID="n1-14">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: a espying us, came up with an arm full.--"Won't we go it now, boys?  See here!  I've got a cartload."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-14">Ebenezer Smith, of Ottawa.  He was another of the three whom Delano engaged.  Despite special kindness, he too broke his contract in California.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:, 1, 30, 107.  An Ebenezer Smith died at San Francisco, aged twenty, on May 24, 1851.  San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>"The deuce," says I, "so have I!  Where's Fred?  I'll warrant he's in the commissary's department too."</p><P>Directly he came in with <HI REND="italics">supplies for St. Joseph</HI>
073.sgm:, and on taking inventory, we found that we had on hand forty loaves of bread, six dozen rusk, fifteen cards of gingerbread, besides sundry piles of nuts, apples, milk, and crackers to fill--a tolerable supply for five men for three days.</p><P>"Go it, boys, while you're young, but don't let the captain see it, or he'll charge for extra freight."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>Mr. Green's company,<ANCHOR ID="n1-15">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: including young Thorn, left St. Louis the day before we did.  Mr. Fredenburg intended going up with them, but was accidentally left.  I did not regret it, as it gave us the pleasure of his company, and his dry jokes help to destroy the tedium of our steamboat imprisonment.  Smith, too, has varnished up his old stories, so that we contrive to pass the time very agreeably.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-15">Jesse Green (1817-1907) was captain of a company from Dayton, Illinois.  Born at Newark, Ohio, he became a prosperous miller and served several terms as justice of the peace and town supervisor at Dayton, where he died.  <HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New</HI>
073.sgm:, 2, 7, 108-109; <HI REND="italics">Past and Present of LaSalle County, Illinois</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Monday evening, April 16, found us five miles below Independence landing, and the captain as well as passengers were anxious to get in that night.  The river was full of snags and required the most careful running even by daylight; still the pilot thought he could carry us safely through.  A furious storm of rain suddenly arose, our boat struck heavily twice against floating trees and Capt. Baker would run no more risk.  The boat was therefore run alongside an island, though with considerable difficulty, and we lay by till daylight, when we ran up to the landing.</p><P>The town of Independence lays three miles from the river; and the landing is only a small cluster of log houses, with two or three poor warehouses.  A high limestone bluff runs from the river and is ascended by a difficult road about a quarter of a mile in length.  At St. Louis we were told that an immense throng had congregated at Independence, five or six thousand, and that the landing was lined with wagons for a mile, so that it was difficult to find a passage through them.  I counted six wagons at the landing and forty on the bluff belonging to different companies; and I was told by a gentleman, who was collecting the names of all the emigrants, that he had visited all the encampments, that within a circle of fifteen miles there were about 2,500 only at that time.<ANCHOR ID="n1-16">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I will not hazard a guess now at the probable number who will attempt to emigrate, but I am convinced that it will be much less than was expected.<ANCHOR ID="n1-17">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-16">The gentleman who gave this information was probably the unidentified correspondent of the St. Louis <HI REND="italics">Missouri Republican</HI>
073.sgm: who shuttled between Independence and St. Joseph gathering data on the Forty-Niners and who signed himself "California."  St. Louis <HI REND="italics">Missouri Republican</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-17">Between twenty-five and thirty thousand people negotiated the California Trail in 1849, and as many more in 1850.  John W. Caughey, <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Since leaving St. Louis the weather has been cold and a strong head wind has blown for eight days in succession, which has, perhaps, had a favorable effect on the health of our passengers; still our long trip has made us anxious to be free from the imprisonment of a steamboat.</p><P>We arrived at St. Joseph on Thursday evening, April 19.</p><P>Yours truly,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>2.<LB>St. Joseph, April 21, 1849.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DEAR <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: --From the mouth of the Missouri to this place the banks of the river are high and often precipitous and rocky, though the valley is sometimes two miles wide, and the water is constantly wearing away the soil of the bottoms, which are only a deposit of the stream at some former period.  This makes the Missouri a muddy stream, resembling the water in a puddle after a shower; but after being allowed to settle a short time, the water is sweet and wholesome.  A few miles above Independence, we pass the mouth of the Kansas, and on that side up to Council Bluffs, perhaps higher, is the Indian country, their claim to which is not yet extinguished by the government; and on their side you see no sign of civilization except at Fort Leavenworth, up as far as we have come, while the opposite or north side of the river is a fine farming country, well settled a short distance on the bluff.  Fort Leavenworth stands upon the bank, perhaps an hundred rods from the river, and is like an oasis in the wilderness of prairie and cottonwood of the bottoms, with its neat barracks and surrounding brick buildings. </p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The tedium of the steamboat was at length relieved by a view of the pretty and thrifty town of St. Joseph on the 19th, about four o'clock p.m., after a ten days' confinement, from St. Louis.  It is situated upon a level plot, in a kind of amphitheatre, high ridges of broken prairie in the rear, with the river in front.  It is the county seat of Buchanan County, has a fine spacious courthouse, two or three churches, a population of two thousand souls, twenty-one mercantile stores, mechanics in proportion, three steam flouring mills and a fourth under contract; three sawmills, and I was informed that fifty-four brick and ninety frame houses were erected last season.  Twelve thousand hogs were slaughtered here last fall, and large quantities of bacon, hemp, and tobacco are brought in from the surrounding country.  It is only five years since the town was surveyed and laid out, and it promises to be a place of much importance.  It is already one of the prominent starting places for California and Oregon emigrants.</p><P>At St. Louis the emigrants have been egregiously imposed on by false representations as to the capability of furnishings outfits here.  We were told that the number of emigrants was so great that supplies could not be obtained, scarcely at any price; that the citizens were sending down the river for provisions; that board was seven dollars a week at the hotels, &amp;c.  We were, therefore, induced to lay in our bacon, a common article, at 5 3/4c. per pound; our flour at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:$4.50 per bbl.; our bread at 5 and pay 30c. freight.  We found on our arrival that the most beautiful bacon could be had and in <HI REND="italics">any quantity</HI>
073.sgm: at 4 to 5.; flour at $4 per bbl.; and board ranged from $2 to $4 per week at the hotels.</p><P>Cattle and mules, which had also been represented as being enormously high, can be had, the former at $45 to $55 per yoke and the latter from $50 to $70 each.  Other supplies can be had on quite reasonable terms, and I should advise all who are coming <HI REND="italics">not to buy in St. Louis</HI>
073.sgm: but to complete their outfit here.</p><P>We found on our arrival that Mr. Green's company had decided to move up the river to Fort Kearny, ninety-six miles.<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: The season is backward, and it will probably be ten or fourteen days before the grass will allow the emigrants to start.  By going to Fort Kearny they avoid crossing the Platte.  A good military road extends through the interior; the streams are all bridged, and they are forty-five miles advanced on their journey, having the advantage of settlements so far.  We found the first South Bend, Indiana, company here, but on the point of moving to Fort Kearny; and I think many men will adopt the same course.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">The old Fort Kearny, begun by Major General (then Colonel) Stephen W. Kearny near the present site of Nebraska City, Nebraska, in 1846, and abandoned as a military post in 1848.  See the article on Kearny in the <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:.  This place is not to be confused with the Fort Kearny on the Platte River which was called Fort Childs in 1849 and which is now marked by Kearney, Nebraska.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>This will make a division in the main body, so that a much wider range will be had for our cattle.  My cattle, with those of Mr. Cutting, are thirty miles in the country awaiting our orders.  Mr. Cutting arrived yesterday and we have despatched Mr. Smith for our cattle, having determined to take the Fort Kearny route.  We intend to leave here on Tuesday.  We have to make the melancholy record of the death of Mr. Zeluff, a member of Mr. Green's company.  He was taken with diarrhea and suffered it to run without attention six days, when vomiting and cramps set in and terminated his existence in a few hours.  That company left here few hours before our arrival and went out five miles, when Mr. Zeluff died, and yesterday they stopped to bury him.</p><P>Messrs. Morril.<ANCHOR ID="n2-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and Thorn, who are attached to our mess, went on with Mr. Fredenburg's wagon in the Dayton (Green's) company, and we expect to overtake them at the Fort, and then we intend to unite with Captain Tutt's company of South Bend, all old friends of mine.<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3">John Morrill (b. 1827), of Ottawa.  Born at Concord, New Hampshire, he fought in the Mexican War and followed the gunsmith trade.  He mined in California until 1853, when he returned to Ottawa to become a farmer and raise a family.  Starting as a captain, he was brevetted brigadier general in the Civil War.  <HI REND="italics">History of LaSalle County, Illinois</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">Charles M. Tutt was "president" of a company of thirty men from South Bend, where Delano had conducted a general store.  South Bend <HI REND="italics">Register</HI>
073.sgm:, February 22, 1849, as quoted in the South Bend <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
073.sgm:, April 9, 1933; <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>There are here, and in this vicinity, from two thousand to twenty-four hundred men, but not over three thousand at this time.  Every steamboat brings its hundreds, and the next ten days may swell the number to five or six thousand.</p><P>I have ventured to predict ten thousand as the probable number who will attempt to cross the plains.  It may exceed that calculation, but from present indications twenty and thirty thousand is far beyond the mark.<ANCHOR ID="n2-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-5">But cf. p. 7.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>In the motley crowd assembled at this point, you see every variety of costume and arrangements for traveling according to the taste and ability of the emigrants.  It seems to be a general disposition to set fashion at defiance, or rather it is fashionable to be unfashionable.  As a general custom, however, a check or woolen shirt, a Mexican broadbrim, small crown, white or brown wool hat, high boots reaching up on the knee, as uncomfortable as can be made <HI REND="italics">a&acute; la</HI>
073.sgm: seven league boots of Peter Schlemihl,<ANCHOR ID="n2-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: is the general character of your imaginary Croesus.  Then others of more refined taste, who never dreamed perhaps of such exquisiteness at home, have cultivated a most precious pair of mustaches and whiskers, while others are trying to coax a pair to grow without success, <HI REND="italics">a&acute; la Baboonia</HI>
073.sgm:, and with a finer display of bowie knives and revolvers may hide the trembling of a coward heart.  And these men, most of whom are strangers to hardships, are about launching forth upon a sea of toil, where their habits must change and where all their comforts, aside from providential contingencies, depend upon themselves, their sagacity and ingenuity.  They must drive and attend their own teams, repair all "breaks," wash and mend their own clothes, bake their own cakes, cook their own meat, brown and boil their own coffee, in short, be teamster, carpenter, blacksmith, shoemaker, tailor, cook and bottle-washer all in one.  Lawyers, physicians, counter-jumpers, ladies' man, dandy, think of this and weep, because the gold won't come to you, but is obstinately bent on having you go to it at the sacrifice of so much paste blacking, cologne water, gin slings, and mint juleps.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-6">Hero of <HI REND="italics">Peter Schlemihls wunderbare Geschichte</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The women are all grinning at the thought of what a fist you will make on the bank of a puddle washing your own clothes without soap, or trying to <HI REND="italics">stop up</HI>
073.sgm: a hole in your shirt with a darning needle; and I fancy I hear my own better half, exclaiming half triumphantly, as I am sweating over the fire roasting coffee, with buffalo chips, after a rain, "It's good enough for you; you might have staid at home instead of going off on a wild goose expedition.  You'll find <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:out that women are worth something after all."  Never mind, boys--" <HI REND="italics">de gustibus non</HI>
073.sgm:," &amp;.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>For Gold the sailor plows the main;<LB>For Gold the farmer plows the land;<LB>For Gold we rag, tag, and bobtail, red shirts,<LB>Buckskin-pants,<LB></HI>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:of our movements from this place and after we get off of all mail routes; we shall embrace every opportunity of sending an account of our doings, with, perhaps a sprinkle of some of our "sayings."</p><P>Yours truly,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p><illus entity="a073-0007" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>3.<LB>English Grove, 38 miles below Fort Kearny Monday, April 30, 1849.<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DEAR <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: --Last Monday morning, about daybreak, we were awakenedby groans and sounds of distress at the side of our wagon.  "Who is that?--what is the matter?"  was a simultaneous inquiry.  "It is me--O!--I'm in such pain!--I'm very sick!"  We instantly roused up and found Mr. Harris<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: was not with us and that he was the sufferer.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">Matthew Harris, of Ottawa.  He was one of the three youths whom Delano engaged to assist him on the journey.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>On getting out of the wagon, we found him leaning against a wheel in great agony of pain, occasionally retching convulsively; and, on learning that he had been up two or three times before, we became at once satisfied that the cholera had insinuated its poisonous fangs amongst us.  I immediately gave him a large dose of laudanum, the only remedy or palliative at hand, and sent for a physician, who came within an hour and commenced an active course of medicine.</p><P>He grew worse, however, nothwithstanding all our efforts.  Vomiting, purging, cramping became excessive--with cold limbs and hands, and cold sweat pouring from his brow; still we worked over him till noon, when we found the symptoms had changed.  The vomiting, purging, and cramping ceased, his limbs became warm and the pain in the bowels was much less severe.  In this condition <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:he remained for three hours, thinking, with us, that he was better.  About four o'clock in the afternoon, while laying in comparative ease, he was taken with gasping for breath and in ten minutes he lay a corpse before us.</p><P>Such a sudden and unaccountable change overwhelmed us for a moment.  We could scarcely believe him dead; yet it was palpable to our senses, and the stern reality bid us prepare for the last obsequies for the dead.  We laid him out as well as our slender means would permit and kept watch till morning when, with heavy hearts, we dug his grave and, with none to help us in the last sad rite, we consigned him "to that bourn from which no traveler returns." <ANCHOR ID="n3-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-3">Cf. Shakespeare, <HI REND="italics">Hamlet</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Poor Harris!  with high hopes he left home, and this was the end of them.  He was a man of singularly honest and upright intentions, of great moral worth, simple in his habits, and sincere in his professions.  A Christian, he lived as near to what he believed his duty as the weakness of human nature allowed him.  We felt that one of our best men had been taken.  This is the only case that I am cognizant of where cholera has been fatal to a temperate man.  He never drank ardent spirits as a beverage and was temperate in all his habits.  My impression is that the state of the atmosphere was the cause.  In the lower part of the town was one or two slaughter houses, around which were large quantities of pigs' feet, several dead cattle and hogs, which created an effluvia almost insufferable; and I cannot understand why the corporation of St. Joseph allows such abominable nuisances to exist when cholera is among them and so many hundreds of people are daily arriving.</p><P>With regard to general operations I can add but little to my former letter.  The arrivals by steamboats are becoming less; some are already tired of the expedition and are offering their teams and outfit for sale, while others are moving off to different points; so that instead of increasing at St. Joseph the numbers are rather decreasing.</p><P>After repairing our wagon bows, which were damaged in St. Louis, my team, under Mr. Fredenburg's directions, started up the river on Wednesday, April 26, towards Fort Kearny, to join the Dayton Company, which had preceded us, while I remained behind to get letters and papers by the next mail.  That night I received a touch of the elephant--a rub of the "shadow of coming events."<ANCHOR ID="n3-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I began to grow cold, and, hang me, if fire would warm me.  In about an hour and a half, I got warm, warmer, warmest; and now ice wouldn't cool me.  I tried the effect of cold water--humph!  I had by some means swallowed a steam engine and all the water I poured down was converted into vapour at once; and, like the insatiable leech, there was a cry of "give, give, give!" till I thought my boiler would burst and I should be blown to atoms.  A regular chill and fever was on me.  The next morning I "went it" on blue mass: not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:high mass, but blue pill, and lay up to dry, thinking that by Friday I could go on.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-4">Cf. Campbell, <HI REND="italics">Lochiel's Warning</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Friday morning the sun rose pleasantly and I arose smiling, under the impression that we would shine in company that day.  I fed my pony early (I suppose the sun had fed his before I was up), intending to start after breakfast.</p><P>After a cup of coffee the sun put his head into a cloud and I put mine bewteen two blankets with another chill, which ended with another heating-up operation.  However, after noon I got off my bed and on my pony, determined to get away from the cologne of St. Joseph.  I was so weak I could hardly sit on my horse, but the pure air revived me, and I gained strength every mile, and by the time I reached the pretty town of Savannah, fourteen miles, I felt quite comfortable.</p><P>On Saturday I overtook my team, and then commenced an active warfare against <HI REND="italics">internal combustion</HI>
073.sgm:.</p><P>By the way, I got no letters from home and have not received the least word from any of my friends since I left, and now, probably, shall not.</p><P>We have been traveling over a high rolling prairie for the last two days, with considerable settlements.  We reached here yesterday at noon and learned that Mr. Green, instead of going to Fort Kearny to cross the river, had crossed eight miles south of us, and that the South Bend company had gone on to the Fort; so that this divides the two companies for the present.  I have sent my wagon to join the Dayton company and am laying up here to give my cold chills "a lick" if they don't give me "Jesse."  You will perceive by my writing that I am not desperately sick and don't expect to be: I stop as a matter of precaution to attend to myself in season.  I took cold the night poor Harris died in watching over him.  The rest are all well.</p><P>The grass on the bottom is good, but it will not be fit to start on the plains under ten or fifteen days.</p><P>By the way, it is a singular fact, so far as my observation extends, that all those who have been sick either lived on the river or came up it, while those who came across the country have not been attacked by disease of any kind.  I am now well enough to join my company, which I propose to do tomorrow, and shall then be in the Pottawatomie country.<ANCHOR ID="n3-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I have an opportunity to forward this to St. Joseph tomorrow and shall embrace it.  I think I shall be able to write you again before we leave.  It is twelve miles to the nearest post office.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-5">Now northeast Kansas, where a county is so named, after the Potawatomi Indians who were forcibly transported there in 1837-1838 from Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, and Wisconsin.  Irving McKee, "The Trail of Death: Letters of Benjamin Marie Petit," <HI REND="italics">Indiana Historical Society Publications</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Truly yours,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>4.<LB>Harney's Landing, May 2, 1849.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DEAR <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: --I left my comfortable quarters, where I had stopped to recruit and dose off the chills, this morning and came here to join our company.  They have been encamped on the opposite side of the river in Indian Territory several days, but as the grass is good out at least fifteen miles, they have broken up camp and have determined to move as far as grass will allow.  I shall cross after dinner and overtake them.  We shall then be beyond any regular public conveyance--shall have to depend entirely upon chance. I shall embrace any which may occur to continue my correspondence.  I am happy to say that my health is re-established.  I learn that all our company are well.  We do not go to Fort Kearny, but strike for Grand Island on the Platte.  And now commence our wanderings, and whether they will continue as long and be as varied as those of the children of Israel, remains to be seen.  I fear, however, that one of their evil deeds will be in some measure imitated by us; that is, the worship of the "Golden Calf."  May we not forget, however, that there is a God in Israel.  This is sixty miles above St. Joseph.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, June 1, 1849.  Harney's Landing, sixty miles up the Missouri River from St. Joseph, is not on present-day maps.  It was apparently named after Major General (then Brigadier) William S. Harney, Indian-fighter in the Platte country.  <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Truly yours,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>5.<LB>Lawson's Settlement, California, September 18, 1849. Sierra Nevada Mountains, September 13.<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DEAR MARY--We are now within three days of Lawson's Settlement, in the Valley of the Sacramento; and if a bird was ever rejoiced to escape its thraldom, I shall be much more so to get to the end of this long, weary, and vexatious journey.  A man deserves to be well paid who makes his first overland journey to California, for he can form no idea of the many trials he may be subjected to.  The fatigues of the journey--the hardships of traversing an almost barren wilderness of nearly two thousand miles, I care but little for; but it is the narrow-minded ribaldry--the ceaseless strife which is constantly marring the tranquility of such a crowd--a mass of men in which each individual acts independent of all the rest, caring for none but himself, which renders it almost insufferable.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1"><P><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, November 23, 1849.  The editor's superscription reads: "Through the kindness of Mrs. Delano we have been permitted to publish the following highly interesting letter from her husband, now in the gold mines."</p><P>Mary Burt Delano (1808-1871) became Delano's wife at Aurora, New York, in 1830.  They had two children, Fred and Harriet, born about 1833 and 1843 respectively.  The family was reunited at Aurora in 1852 and, after Fred's death, at Grass Valley about 1857.  Mrs. Delano was "universally esteemed as a most exemplary lady."  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:, February 22-23, 1871; <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:, vii, 57-58; Mary Delano Fletcher, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
073.sgm:.</p><P>"Lawson's Settlement" was the ranch of Peter Lassen, famed Danish explorer of California, on the south side of Deer Creek at its junction with the Sacramento River.  Lassen settled here in 1844 and three years later named the place Benton City (after Missouri's expansionist Senator) in the vain expectation that it would become a permanent metropolis as the terminus of the Lassen Trail.  In 1849 it was the best-known point, next to Sutter's Fort, in interior California.  <HI REND="italics">Illustrated History of Plumas, Lassen, and Sierra Counties</HI>
073.sgm: (San Francisco, 1882), 332; Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>We have reached this point without accident to ourselves or our cattle, a somewhat extraordinary thing considering what we have passed through, but it has been accomplished only by the utmost vigilance and care on our part.  We have been nearly three weeks longer on the road than we expected or should have been, but for circumstances.<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: When we were going down the Humboldt River, a report began to be accredited among the emigrants that there was a new road that led to Feather River, or the Sacramento, or the somewhere, that it was an hundred miles nearer to the mines, a better route, no difficulty in crossing the mountains (Sierra Nevada), and plenty of grass and water all the way, and that we should not have to cross the barren desert of the Great Basin.  We watched for days <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:for the turning-off place, and in the meantime various reports were circulated about the road, and we did not know what to believe.  In fact nobody knew certain whether there was a road leading to California that way, though there was one to Oregon.  In much doubt we finally came to the turning-off point and our company determined to take it anyhow, as there was forty-five miles of desert on the old road without grass or water; and a story became prevalent that when we got out ten miles on the new road, there was grass, in fifteen miles water and some grass, and after thirty-five miles there was good forage all the way.  We took it--there was no grass for sixty-five miles and but one spring, a mile off the road, where water could be had for the cattle; in short, we were on the desert and drove the whole distance without feeding our cattle, and no water except at the commencement.  Our train was the fourth that had taken the road, and I counted on the last thirty miles fifty oxen dead from exhaustion on the desert.  Yet our cattle went through well.  We then came to a large boiling spring which irrigated about twenty acres of land, and a little distance below the spring the water became cool enough for the cattle to drink.  We lay here till 'most night and then moved to better and more grass seven miles beyond, where we lay over one day.  There we had two twenty-mile stretches of desert to pass without grass or water, so that our <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
073.sgm: desert proved to be one hundred and five miles; yet we passed safely through and without loss, although many who followed us lost their cattle and had to abandon their wagons and pack through on foot.  We now came to a tribe of very hostile Indians, like those we had been with on the Humboldt--they are a thieving set; they would come near at nightfall and either steal mules, horses, or cattle, or shoot them with arrows so that they could not be taken along, and then come in and get them after the emigrants are gone.  We keep strict guard and save ours.  We passed five hundred miles among the robbers; in fact, we are only two days beyond them.  Some desperate encounters have been had between them and the whites, when in search of cattle or mules; for they fight well cornered, but run if they can.  Yet I have been in the mountains alone by day and by night, have slept alone when the wolves have come howling within two rods of me, and have met with no trouble whatever from either Indians, robbers, or wolves; still, it was a risk.  One gets used to it, and I have had no more fears in traveling alone, miles from any camp, than if I had been on a public road at home.  We have seen many things I cannot speak of now, but have noticed them in my journal.  At last we went northward till we met a government train going to the Humboldt with supplies for troops going in, and from them we learned that we should find a road just opened across the mountains to California, but that our route would be about three hundred miles farther than the one by the old road.  We passed through a <HI REND="italics">can&tilde;on</HI>
073.sgm: twenty-five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:miles.<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:against had we known of the desert, by taking along grass and water.  I cannot tell you in a letter what I have seen or passed through; even a journal is too limited; yet what would look like hardship at home proves, on trial, to be no hardship after we get used to it.  I have written you every chance, but there has been no sure one since I left Fort Laramie till Charles Fisher overtook us on the Humboldt.  I wrote by him and entrusted him with my journal up to Fort Hall, as he was going direct to Sutter's and would mail them.<ANCHOR ID="n5-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I am very anxious to hear from you; I have not heard a word from my friends since the day I left Ottawa.  I shall write as often as possible, and shall not close this until I reach the settlements.  We have not seen a house for four and a half months, and have passed through many scenes which I must leave to recount on my return.  I have felt quite uneasy about you during the sickly season but hope to be assured of your health before long</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">Delano later revised this estimate of lost time to four weeks or more.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3">High Rock Canyon, Nevada.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-4">Charles A. Fisher, of Ottawa, was given the first part of Delano's journal, covering May 22--July 17, but apparently the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: never received it.  The second part, however, July 18--September 16, was published in that paper.  <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, February 29, 1850.  Fisher was reported as having gone to the Yuba River mines.  <HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:<P>September 17.--At length I am in the settlements.  We had arrived to within a little over fifty miles of Lawson's, and the road lay over barren mountains, and it was necessary for our train to lay over a day or two at the last grass, and I concluded to walk on.  Taking a shirt and tying the ends together to make a knapsack, I shouldered it, together with my blanket, water-bottle and tin cup, and set out about two o'clock p.m.  The road was rocky and bad all the way, with long hills to go up and down, and water only at long intervals, and then in deep <HI REND="italics">can&tilde;ones</HI>
073.sgm: (ravines) a mile from the road.  I walked twelve miles and came up with a Missouri camp with whom I was acquainted, and they invited me to spend the night with them.  This was the last water for twenty-two miles.  In the morning I started on, and at noon kindled a fire among the tall pines of a dense forest and made a cup of coffee with some of the water in my flask.  I was now on an elevated ridge one hundred feet high and in many places only wide enough for a road.  This continued for sixteen miles, and at four o'clock I reached a watering place and went a mile down a precipice to fill my bottle--a very laborious task--and then went on two miles.  Here I met Colonel Watkins, of whom I have spoken in my journal and with whom I have traveled a great deal.<ANCHOR ID="n5-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: He insisted on my taking up quarters with him for the night, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:but his train had not one drop of water.  From that in my flask we made a cup of tea and we were soon sleeping soundly on the ground.  I preferred sleeping near a camp, for this forest swarms with grizzly bears and large wolves and panthers, their tracks being very frequent in the road.  In the morning we had a very little tea from the water left, though two of his men walked four miles after night and got a pailful.  I then walked eight miles, where I went down a still more steep precipice to a creek, kindled a fire and made another good cup of coffee, which revived me very much.  About two o'clock I reached the Sacramento Valley, and at five I came in sight of the first house, belonging to Colonel Davis, of Tennessee.<ANCHOR ID="n5-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:, 33; San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:, April 27, 1857; <HI REND="italics">Catalogue of the Officers and Alumni of Washington and Lee University, Lexington, Virginia</HI>
073.sgm:, 1749-1888, p. 59; <HI REND="italics">Register of the General Assembly of Virginia, 1776-1918</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-6">Peter L. Davis (1798-1867) had a plot on the north side of Deer Creek, a mile east of Lassen's.  Born at Asheville, North Carolina, he came to the Feather River via the Lassen Trail in October, 1848.  Beginning in 1850, he resided successively in Santa Clara, San Joaquin, and Humboldt counties.  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:, June 26, 1867; San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:, July 1, 1867; <HI REND="italics">History of Santa Clara County</HI>
073.sgm: (San Francisco, 1881), 659; Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>This is nothing but a trading post of two families, Lawson and Davis.  They live in low, mean, mud houses of unburnt brick ( <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
073.sgm: ).</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>My health never was better, and my ambition to be making something is equally as good.  I shall soon write you again and I hope to know more of the gold region.  I have been unable while on the road to write to any of my friends, but shall now embrace my first leisure to do so.</p><P>God bless you.  I am</p><P>Affectionately yours,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>6.<LB>Sacramento City, Two miles from Sutter's Fort, September 30, 1849.</HEAD>
073.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>MESSRS. EDITORS--I have been here four days and am on the point of leaving for the Upper Sacramento.  I have much information to write you at my first leisure.  It has been with much difficulty that I have written at all, our labors have been so severe, and it has been done chiefly at our noon halts under the shade of our wagon.  The Valley has been much misrepresented by writers with regard to beauty and fertility.  I would not exchange a good farm on one of our rich prairies for the whole of it; and instead of the beautiful Italian sky, it is smoky and unserene.  The grass is dry and parched, with nothing green but the leaves of the oaks.<ANCHOR ID="n6-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: But there is gold in the mountains and opportunities for making money beyond anything I ever saw.  The mines for six hundred miles are yielding well, though it is a kind of lottery in finding rich leads.  Many are discouraged at not finding it plenty enough to scrape up, and are disgusted and leaving for home; many have been sick, made so by imprudent exposure and living.--New mines are being discovered even up in the Cascade Mountains.  I do not regret coming, and shall remain, for I can make something; so can anybody who will work.  I hope you have received the other portions of my journal which have all been duly sent.<ANCHOR ID="n6-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Letters and papers I wish directed to me at Sacramento City, as there is a post office here.  One word to all: Let no man come here who will not be willing to work steadily.  As near as I can learn, a kind of average is about one ounce per day, though I have seen many who have not made more than five to ten dollars, while many have made and are making hundreds--thousands--in a few hours.  You may dig a week and do little or nothing, and this discourages many, and they leave disgusted; but all say the wheel will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:turn, keep digging.  I shall be gone above about a month and in the time will try to give you a true and impartial statement of things as they are without any poetry.  The South Bend and Hennepin<ANCHOR ID="n6-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: companies are all in safe, and I have met several old friends who emigrated to Oregon some years before.  Our company has separated; most of them gone to the Yuba mines, some to the Sacramento, and so on.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-2">This disparaging view of California is repeated in succeeding letters.  But in 1852 Delano frankly confessed his error.  Cf. p. 142.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-3">Cf. p. 19.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-4">South Bend, Indiana, and Hennepin, Illinois.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Truly yours,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>7.<LB>Upper Diggings, Feather River, October 12, 1849.<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DEAR SIR--I have tried a long time to write you, but, since crossing the Missouri River, either sickness, extreme fatigue, or constant labor have totally prevented me.  I have scarcely been able to write to my own family; and I have been compelled to make my journal, hastily written, subserve the place of correspondence to my most intimate friends, to whom I hoped and intended to have written frequently.  You can form no idea of the labor, fatigue, trials and patience of an overland journey to this country.  While traveling along the Platte for hundreds of miles, cold and rainy weather benumb your fingers while pitching tents, guarding cattle, preparing meals, gathering fuel so scantily distributed, and a thousand <HI REND="italics">et ceteras</HI>
073.sgm: blunt your faculties; and when the hour of quiet arrives at dark, you sink on your hard couch exhausted.  It is the same when you reach the burning sand after passing the Platte; and, in addition to this, while traveling down the Humboldt (or Mary's River) the utmost vigilance is required to keep marauding bands of Indians from stealing or maiming your cattle; and you become wearied and worn out, so that if you lay over a day, you cannot collect sufficient energy scarcely to wash a shirt or mend your ragged and dilapidated garments.  Any man who makes a trip by land to California deserves to find a fortune.  The most of my writing has been done at our noon halts, often in the burning sun, for the little shade afforded by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:wagon would be occupied by the wearied men.  But we have got safely through without losing or laming any of our cattle, a somewhat unusual circumstance, and no serious mishap occured except running short of provisions and living about three weeks on hard, dry bread and coffee.  My journal, published in the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n7-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: will give you a general outline of our daily marches and adventures by the way; so I will not speak of them here.  We made two grand errors:  first, in taking the Nemaha Cut-off,<ANCHOR ID="n7-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: which put us back eight or ten days; and next, leaving the Mary's River and taking the Oregon and California Trail,<ANCHOR ID="n7-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:, February 2, 1850.  The superscription reads: "The following letter from Mr. Delano was addressed to Sheriff Hurlbut, of this place, through whose politeness we are permitted to publish it."  Henry Hurlbut was sheriff of La Salle County, 1846-1851.  <HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New</HI>
073.sgm:, 12.</p><P>This letter was probably written at Dawlytown, a camp at the lower end of Bidwell Bar on the South Fork of the Feather, where Delano had opened a store with F. C. Pomeroy on October 10th.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:, 109, 112; Phil T. Hanna, "Dawlytown," <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of California Land Names</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-2">Cf. p. 19.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-3">A name apparently ironically applied to the route followed by the party from the Missouri to the Platte.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-4">I.e., the Lassen Trail.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>A. DELANO.</p><P>P.S.--October 23.<ANCHOR ID="n7-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: --I came down from the mines for a new supply of provisions today.  I find them fifty per cent. higher than when I was here before.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-5">This postscript was probably written at Sacramento.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>8.<LB>Valley of the Sacramento, November 19, 1849.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DEAR <HI REND="italics">FREE TRADER</HI>
073.sgm::--I take the first leisur moment that I have had since my arrival in this Paradise of California to redeem the promise I made of giving you what I know to be facts of this much-praised country and of the charming Valley of the Sacramento, and the leisure which I now enjoy is forced upon me by the rains and the utter impossibility of operating during the autumn.  We had been led to believe that on reaching the Valley we should find a delightful climate, green with flowers and ever-blooming herbage, a luxuriant soil unsurpassed by any in the world.  It was the 16th of September when I first set foot upon the Sacramento Valley.  The sun was burning hot, the grass was dry and crisp, with no vegetation except upon the immediate banks of the stream, where the scrubby oaks still retained their verdure from the effects of the water which the thirsty soil soaked up, and the whole Valley looked as dry and vegetation as dead to all intents and purposes as you ever saw it in the States upon the approach of winter or a long continued drought.  For miles in many places there were large and deep cracks in the earth produced by the glowing sun, and we found no water along the road <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:often for fifteen and twenty miles when we came to a creek or river, except now and then a muddy pond hole so brackish as to be used only from absolute necessity.  The Valley may be from thirty to forty miles wide in many places, but not always.  The road down the Valley from Lawson's to Sacramento City approaches occasionally within ten to fifteen miles of the California (and Gold) mountains, but the atmosphere was so hazy that I could not distinguish their outline and often could not see them at all even in that short distance, and but once since I have been in the Valley--the 13th of November, has it been clear enough to see the Coast Range and both sides of the Valley distinctly.  Whether this is always the case or not I do not pretend to know; I simply state the case as I saw it this fall.  In passing ranchos and on my arrival at the city, I saw more sickness from fever and chill and flux than I ever saw before, and Mr. Bryant in speaking of the salubrity of the climate, says that dead cattle emit no offensive smell but dry up.<ANCHOR ID="n8-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: This is not so; animal matter decays as soon and emits as offensive an effluvia here as at home though no dew falls during the long dry season, so that sleeping outdoors is not unpleasant.  The days are excessively warm and the nights become so cool towards morning that extra clothing is necessary for comfort.  We supposed that the labor of crossing the plains would have fitted emigrants to bear the climate better than those who came by sea.  But so far as my observation goes, there was no difference.  All suffered sickness alike, and one was as likely to be taken down as another.  And thousands were sick, and still are.  Indian corn and potatoes do not thrive well, though they can be raised, and but one crop of wheat can be raised in a year.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, March 30, 1850.  This letter must have been written at Mud Hill, near Oroville, where Delano was weather-bound most of November.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-2">Edwin Bryant (1805-1869) was the author of a very popular guidebook entitled <HI REND="italics">What I Saw in California--Being a Journal of a Tour of the Emigrant Route and South Pass of the Rocky Mountains across the Continent of North America, the Great Desert Basin, and through California, in</HI>
073.sgm: 1846 <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
073.sgm: '47 (Philadelphia, 1848).  The book was reprinted many times.  One passage reads: "The atmosphere is so pure and preservative along the coast, that I never saw putrified flesh; although I have seen, in midsummer, dead carcasses lying exposed to the sun and weather for months, they emitted no offensive smell.  There is but little disease in the country arising from the climate" (Chap. XXXVIII).  In later letters Delano again attacks these and other views, mainly of California's scenery and agricultural future.  Cf. Chap. XXIX.  For Bryant's career, see <HI REND="italics">Appletons' Cyclopaedia of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:<P>If there is rain, enough wheat will grow without irrigation; otherwise the land must be watered.  To sum it all up, it is no agricultural country, it will not compare with the western prairie, and its chief value consists in the mines.  The mountains are a barren waste which cannot be cultivated, and the Valley is an arid plain unfit for an agriculturalist to spend his time and labor upon.  The ranchos are from ten to twenty miles apart.  These are rude houses without floors, built of sun-dried brick, owned by men either squatting on the land or by those holding a grant from the Mexican governors of California, a dubious title which the U. S. Government may or may not recognize.  These men claim from ten to one hundred <HI REND="italics">leagues</HI>
073.sgm: of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:land, making a landed aristocracy which must control the country if their claim is recognized by our Government, and which will eventually produce much disturbance unless the U. S. buy them out.  Should their claims not be acknowledged, the titles to the lots sold in San Francisco, Sacramento City and other places are good for nothing and can be held only by pre-emption, and this will open a wide door for litigation and trouble.<ANCHOR ID="n8-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Near each ranch is generally a village of Indians.<ANCHOR ID="n8-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: --These are for the most part perfectly naked at all seasons of the year, the women having only a small tuft of grass before them, though those employed about the house are dressed " <HI REND="italics">a la Americain</HI>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:mountains are treacherous and unsafe, and will be until they become acquainted with the power and strength of their Anglo-Saxon neighbors.--And now for the real value of California, the staple commodity which has made it an El Dorado, and the only thing which renders it of consequence in a commercial point of view and which has induced so many to leave home and friends, to encounter hardships, sickness and privation, and finally to lay their bones in the lonely dells or high mountain tops of this volcanic and sunburned country, so far from home and kindred--Gold is the talisman.  Gold is the lamp of Aladdin.  Gold is the magic wand.  And it is here, but howfew, alas!  of that mighty throng that passed the plains will have their dreams of wealth realized.  Many have made fortunes, many are still doing so, but you do not hear of those who do not get enough to pay their board, of those whom disease has prostrated in the mines before they have dug an ounce, and the difficulties to be encountered before it can be obtained.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-3">Delano anticipates here the Sacramento Squatter Riots of 1850, involving the proponents and opponents of Sutter's Mexican land title and resulting in considerable bloodshed.  In general, the validity of Mexican titles was maintained.  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
073.sgm:, August 15-16, 1850; Josiah Royce, "The Squatter Riots of '50 in Sacramento," <HI REND="italics">Overland Monthly</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-4">Maidu Indians. A. L. Koeber, <HI REND="italics">Handbook of the Indians of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>I shall tell you the whole story as I see it, and then let those come who wish to.  I will give no advice.  I will neither discourage nor advise anyone to come.  They may come and get rich, or they may come and remain poor, and they may die.</p><P>The gold appears to lay in the mountains in a certain range running north and south.  Fine gold is found at the foot of the mountains, in the streams and ravines, being washed by the floods from higher points.  At about the same range and depth of ravines from twenty to thirty miles from the Valley coarse gold or lumps are found, and although everbody run to the rivers and go up as high as they can, the fact seems to have been generally overlooked that it exists in the same range where the depth of ravines are the same.</p><P>I believe a man may go anywhere up such a ravine and find gold in lumps, and this range extends for hundred of miles, and probably through Oregon and on into Asia.  Much is said of gold diggings on Trinity River, which heads in Klamath Lake and flows among the Cascade Mountains to the Pacific.<ANCHOR ID="n8-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: This has been discovered within the last season, and I do not doubt but rich mines exist there, for the upheaval of those mountains are higher and the dislocation of strata greater than in the California mountains; so that in the range the gold will be easily come at, and more ravines exist to work in.</p><P>It has been found impossible hitherto to penetrate very high up the mountains from the difficulty of getting provisions up, and strong parties are more necessary on account of the treacherous savages who inhabit the hills.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-5">Delano is in error her; the Trinity River rises in the Scott Mountains, Trinity County.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>But passes are being found and obstacles overcome, and men are working their way gradually up, and will do so until they finally succeed in getting to the highest point of the golden range.  As to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:left to go at once into the mines on their arrival, but they were very few.  Some of these have done well, while many have done but little.  But by far the greatest part were obliged to get provisions before they could make a step towards the mines.  The seasons was somewhat advanced before they arrived; many were without money and had to go to work to earn enough before they could buy provisions.  Others rushed to the mines and went to work without experience, depending on their luck for subsistence.  Without tents, many without blankets to shield them from the cold night air, living on pork and hard bread, with a burning sun by day, hundreds were stricken down by disease; many died, while others were unfitted for work for the rest of the season.  On my arrival at the mines there was a heavy rain of twelve hours, and I know of four men who lay out in it, all of whom were too sick with chills and flux to sit up.  I let my own blanket and buffalo skin go to cover one man from the storm within two hours after my arrival.  His bones now lay on the mountains's side where the cold storm will trouble him no more.  I know of companies of ten to fifteen men who crossed the plains, everyone of whom were down sick at once, with no one to wait on them.  Some recovered and some died.</p><P>And there were many men who were taken sick on their arrival, before they could dig an ounce.  Four men passed my shanty, where I am now writing, yesterday, who were in that condition, and they are trying to get to the Coast, hoping to find a change of climate there.</p><P>My friend Chipman has been unfortunate.<ANCHOR ID="n8-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I have just learned that he was taken with the scurvy on the road and now hobbles about on crutches.  He has been within eight miles of me a month, and an accident only made us acquainted with our proximity.  I shall see him tomorrow and minister all in my power to his wants.  And those who went to the city for supplies--about the time of their return and before many got to their intended diggings, the rainy season set in; so that those who could have went to work can do but little till next spring--say June, when they must start off for more provisions; yet proper arrangements with their companies will enable them to do something, however.  My own adventures will give you an inkling of some of a miner's troubles, which I will give you directly, and hundreds are at this moment much worse off than I am.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-6">Otherwise unidentified, he came from Ottawa and died at Long's Bar in December, 1849.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>There has been much sickness, not only in the mines but through the Valley generally, and a good deal of suffering--I have seen it and could fill sheets with individual cases.  If there is anything like getting acclimated to the country, the emigrants are going it with a rush, Mr. Bryant to the contrary notwithstanding.  Hundreds are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:leaving the mines on account of the scarcity of provisions.  The rainy season has set in, and there are not provisions enough in these mines for those at work; of those who leave (and scores pass by my shanty daily) many expect to support themselves by labor in the city, but at this season business is suspended there, and they will find nothing to do at any price, and I do not believe that there are tents and houses enough to contain the throng that are rushing in.  If a man has gold enough to support him and a tent, it may do to go to the city, but if he has neither he may die of want, for there are so many cases that common charity cannot relieve them.  Yet, strange enough, it is the best country to make money in I ever saw, and a man who can and will work is pretty sure of congressman's wages, at least during the season of labor, which will be after the rains and floods are over.  The rains have played the deuce with the calculations of a good many.  They had been at work in the mines, some successfully, and having got enough to purchase supplies, dispatched a team after them.  The rains have come on, and twenty-four hours have made the roads so bad in this beautiful and charming Valley that they are either fast in the mud on the Valley plain, wealth-bound on the bank of some stream or slough, or trying to count the stars amid the fogs and clouds of the first hill.  The latter is my case precisely.--I have not yet found out exactly how many stars there are in the Milky Way, but I know within a few feet how deep the mud is between me and my camp at Bidwell Bar,<ANCHOR ID="n8-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: only ten miles distant.  Well, I lent my yoke and chains today to a man to pull an ox out of the mud that got mired fast, although he was driving his cattle unyoked before him, and this is on a side hill of the mountain.  You know I came here to make money.  On my arrival at Lawson's, the two men who had engaged to work a year for me that I brought through, left me <HI REND="italics">as a matter of course</HI>
073.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n8-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and I took charge of my own team.  On reaching the city, I took a load of provisions and started off for some place, not knowing exactly where, but to be governed by circumstances.  The third day I lost one of my best oxen--strayed and got lost myself in hunting for him in a tangled morass where the brush, pea and grape vines were so thick as to make it almost impossible to get through.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-7">Named after John Bidwell (1819-1900), who first discovered gold on the Feather River, in 1848.  A native of Chautauqua, New York, he accompanied the first emigrant train to go overland from the Missouri to California (1841).  He was conspicuous thereafter as soldier, landowner, and congressman.  <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-8">Robert Brown and Ebenezer Smith. Cf. pp. 4, 6.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>I got out, however, after a half day's hard labor, but did not find my ox and was compelled to buy another.  Circumstances directed me to the Feather River mines, and I cleared six hundred dollars in two weeks on my load, and started for the city about the 20th of October for a recruit.  No accident occurred in going down, but the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:day before reaching the Yuba the 3rd of November, the rains commenced, although the old settlers assured us that we would have no trouble from rains till about Christmas.  It poured down steadily for twenty-four hours and then held up.  We drove five miles to the Yuba, where we had to lay up, as there was no grass nor water for the next twelve miles--too long a drive for the afternoon.  The next morning we started out (there being three wagons in company) and I, being acquainted with the ford, took the lead.  I observed that the river was swollen, but still thought it fordable and drove in.  The opposite landing was only wide enough for a wagon to go up the bank, and I noticed my leaders were giving ground, and I jumped into the river to keep them up, but I found the current so strong that I was glad to get back on the wagon.  As the water went deeper the current was stronger, and I soon saw my cattle could not stem it and were now at least two rods below the landing, unable to gain an inch upstream, and when within three rods of the shore they turned down the stream.  I stopped them and jumped in to keep them towards the bank at least, but now I could not stand, and the current whirled me away like a shaving.  I caught hold of my leader's horn as I was passing him and drew myself back to the wagon.  I reflected that all <HI REND="italics">my capital</HI>
073.sgm: was there and that it was of the first moment to save my cattle.</p><P>No aid could be given me by my friends on shore, as the current would sweep them away, and they stood there helpless, expecting to see me go to <HI REND="italics">Davy Jones'</HI>
073.sgm: bag and baggage, every instant.  I got out between the wheel cattle and, with the utmost labor, finally succeeded in getting the chain unhooked in about half an hour.  The cattle started for the back shore, and I started for the wagon, but I was whirled away again with no more consideration by the foaming waters than if I had not been a teamster.  But I caught hold of one of my oxen's tail and in this inglorious manner was tailed out, so chilled by the cold mountain stream that I could scarcely stand.  Towards noon I went up to a ranch nearby to see if I could get a horse to ride in to my wagon, when a fiery young fellow swore he could get my wagon out or draw it to h--1.  "Well, my fine fellow, if you will do it I will give you ten dollars and risk the wagon's going to the d--1."  He took three yoke of strong cattle and a horse--drove down to the river, when his courage evaporated entirely and he dared not even ride in.  I then took his horse and rode in myself, and availing myself of the aid of a strong company that had just arrived, I took one end of a rope, while they held to the other; landing into my wagon and sending my horse ashore, I contrived to fasten the rope to the wagon tongue, when the men hauled it to the shore safe and sound.  With much labor I cut a path through the thicket of willows which line the bank, dug the bank down, unloaded my wagon, and secured my load, just as a second edition of the first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:rain commenced, when I retreated to my wagon, where I spent a delicious night with the river foaming under me and the heavens "hung with black,"<ANCHOR ID="n8-9">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: though I was this side up and kept dry, all but my wet clothes.  The next morning the river was lower (as there had been no rain during the previous day) and the other wagons passed safely over, and hitching five yoke of cattle to my wagon tongue, it was drawn out and we soon started off.  But now it rained and we found the rich soil of this charming Valley so <HI REND="italics">unctuous</HI>
073.sgm: that it was dark before we reached our campground, our cattle completely exhausted, ourselves completely soaked, and our song of "Susanna, don't you cry,"<ANCHOR ID="n8-10">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: washed out of our memories by the trouble of getting our fires lighted and of cooking our suppers in the rain--in fact, we "just took a cold bite and went right to bed."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-9">Shakespeare, <HI REND="italics">The First Part of Henry the Sixth</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-10">Stephen C. Foster, <HI REND="italics">Oh! Susanna</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The next morning dawned with outpourings upon us, and for my especial comfort I was violently seized with bloody flux, brought on, probably, by extreme exposure.  We lay there six days, during which it rained incessantly.  I found my comfort in two doses of calomel and about half a ton of opium (or less) which straightened my internal relations, and the good and kind care of my companions, Messrs. Billinghurst, of Chicago, and Erholtz Holland of New Lisbon, Ohio, brought me to my feet.  They stuck to me like brothers, and their nursing probably went as far as the medicine to make me whole again--and we stick together yet in the mud on the mountainside, and we will stick together after we get out of the mire.</p><P>As soon as we could move, we left our delightful quarters and, crossing a deep slough that now was a deep and rapid torrent in four days, we reached the first hill at the foot of the mountains twenty miles distant.<ANCHOR ID="n8-11">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-11">Mud Hill, near today's Oroville.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>One would naturally suppose that once upon the high ground where the water had a chance to run off readily, the road would have been better, but we found the contrary to be the case.  Ascending the first bench, the soft red soil was so completely saturated that any farther movement was utterly out of the question, for in or out of the road, the cattle sunk up to their bellies in mire, and scarcely an hour had passed that some courageous and go-ahead individual did not get fast, and several could not get their cattle out at all, and they perished miserably in the mud.  There was not a blade of grass, and the only way left was for us to send our cattle back to the plain below, ten miles, to graze while we erected a kind of bough house (not a "bower of roses") and determined to await the course of events.  Up to the present time, over two weeks, I have been on duty as bodyguard to the wagons.  Our men come down and take up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:provisions as they need them, and instead of clearing over a thousand dollars which I should have done with ease upon my load, it is now probable that I shall stay here and eat it all up, and mine is not a solitary instance.  It is only an exemplification of hundreds of teams who "went down into Egypt" for corn<ANCHOR ID="n8-12">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: when I did.  Most of them are still behind, unable to cross the streams, while their companions above are practicing the art of living without food or nearly approximating to it.  In the meantime provisions are so scarce and high that hundreds are leaving for the city to buy provisions, intending to spend the winter on the spoils they have already won.  Flour here is $200 per bbl., pork, $200; sugar, 75c. per pound; butter, $2.50; rice, 50c.; hard bread, $1.25c.; molasses, $5 per gallon; vinegar, $5; tobacco, $1; pipes from 25 to 50c.; fresh beef, 50c., &amp;c. &amp;c., so that during the rainy season a man can just about pay his way.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-12">Genesis xlii: 2.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Yet you daily hear of men who have been successful and who have got enough to satisfy them in a few weeks.  Now I believe this to be the actual state of things at this time.  What another season may bring about, I cannot say; but I presume that arrangements will be made to get up provisions so that miners will be better supplied than they are this fall.  Heavy shipments of provisions from the States must pay well next year unless it is brought here by speculators.  When I first went to Sacramento City, I bought flour at $15 per bbl.  Towards the close of the season the speculators put it up to $40.  I saw a barrel of sauerkraut sell for $100; pickles (common) sell at $4 per gallon, and were measured in a two-quart measure.  They have been scarce and are an invaluable article and almost indispensable in the mines as an anti-scorbutic.  Vinegar in the city sells for $1.00 per gallon.  The character of the miners so far as I have seen, as a general thing, is highly respectable.  As much order reigns here as at home, and thus far property is more safe.  No serious difficulties have occurred, and slight difficulties are adjusted by arbitration.</p><P>Firearms and bowie knives are nuisances, and when a man makes a claim, it is respected as long as he works it, as long as he leaves his pick and tools in it.</p><P>I still keep a journal of incidents from which I may occasionally copy for you, but this communication is intended simply to place the actual state of things before you as they now exist, independent of a regular routine of events.  I am obliged to close this as I have an opportunity of sending it off.  Since my leaving home to the present moment, I have not heard a single word from any of my friends.  The mails are more than three months behind.  I have written you fully of my whole trip besides one or two minor communications, and have written to many friends besides.  Whether you will receive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:my letters or not, I cannot say.  An express in now in operation between here and the States, and I shall hereafter send my letters by it to be mailed at some post office in the States, although the cost of each letter is one dollar paid to the agents.  I wish all communications and papers to me, to be directed to Sacramento City.</p><P>Truly yours,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>9.<LB>Dawlytown, February 16, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n9-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DID you ever receive a visit from St. Nicholas in your childhood?  With what pleasure did you take down the little well-filled stocking, suspended by a fork at the ingle-side before daylight of a merry Christmas morning, and how your heart swelled with joy as you drew from the deep recess of knit woolen the treasures which the good Santa Claus had left in token of his kind remembrance.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1"><P>New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Daily True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, April 26, 1850.  This was a Democratic paper, launched on November 18, 1849, and destined to survive until 1866.  Its chief owners and editors were John Maginnis (d. 1863) and M. G. Davis (d. 1865).  New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Weekly True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, March 7, 1863; New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Weekly Times</HI>
073.sgm:, January 14, 1865; Winifred Gregory, <HI REND="italics">American Newspapers, 1821-1936</HI>
073.sgm:.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">California True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, a semi-monthly "steamer" edition of the New Orleans daily, attained the remarkable circulation of 6,500 at Sacramento early in 1851, and according to a local competitor it was the "best paper that comes to California."  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:, March 31, 1851.</p><P>As the body of the present letter makes clear, it was addressed to "Colonel" Joseph Grant, agent for the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, whom Delano had met at Mud Hill, near Oroville, the previous November, when Grant was prospecting.  Since then the agent had written to Delano asking him to undertake a California correspondence for the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, and he is happy to comply.</p><P>Colonel Grant, prominent in California, 1850-1851, was probably the Joseph Grant who sailed on the brig <HI REND="italics">Octavia</HI>
073.sgm:, June 26, 1849, on her regular run from New Orleans to Chagres, Panama.  New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
073.sgm:, January 30, April 6, June 6, 1850; C. W. Haskins, <HI REND="italics">Argonauts of California</HI>
073.sgm: (New York, 1890), 477.  Colonel Joseph Grant conducted a well-advertised business combining real estate, auctioneering, bookselling, money dealing, and the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: at Front and J Streets, Sacramento, the following two years.  He ran unsuccessfully for mayor in 1850 and announced he would campaign for governor.  Sacramento's first formal historian called attention in 1853 to his promotional, charitable, and eccentric traits.  And Delano admired him without reservation.  But Grant seems to have disappeared entirely, late in 1851, although a Joseph Grant was an original member of the San Francisco Stock and Exchange Board of 1862, and a Joseph Osborn Grant (1818-1883) flourished as a carpenter at Benicia.  San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:, February 16, April 2, 10, October 9, 1850; Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
073.sgm:, October 8-20, December 9, 11, 16, 18, 23, 1850; New Orleans <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, January 9--October 8, 1851; San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
073.sgm:, March 10-24, 1851; Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:, March 19--June 19, 1851; Dr. John F. Morse, <HI REND="italics">First History of Sacramento</HI>
073.sgm: (Sacramento, 1945; original ed., 1853), 3-16; San Francisco <HI REND="italics">California Chronicle</HI>
073.sgm:, April 30, 1856; "Joseph O. Grant," Petition for Letters of Administration, Ms., 1883, in Solano County Courthouse; Joseph L. King, <HI REND="italics">History of the San Francisco Stock and Exchange Board</HI>
073.sgm:<P>It was a dark, gloomy day, and I was sitting somewhat moodily in my cloth-covered cabin, engaged in the pleasing, though somewhat aristocratic (a&grave; la California) occupation of baking the bread <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:which I had mixed up in the morning, when the curtain door of my log palace was suddenly drawn, and our mutual friend Dawly<ANCHOR ID="n9-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: appeared, with a bundle of papers and a note from you<ANCHOR ID="n9-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: which Captain Freeland<ANCHOR ID="n9-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: had brought up from the city.  Had old Santa Claus himself appeared with his precious gifts, I could not have been half so much gratified as the sight of that package from you afforded me, and I fear that some of my expressions savored more of childish delight than the calm pleasure of a man of forty.<ANCHOR ID="n9-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: You have been in the mountains, and know how isolated we are from the world, and particularly at this season of the year when all intercourse with <HI REND="italics">below</HI>
073.sgm: is nearly suspended, and we are left to seek amusement from our own reflection--you can well appreciate the pleasure with which I received your gift.  The sight of a late newspaper is rare among us, and when one arrives in the mines it is read and reread, with all its advertisements even, and then it passes from hand to hand till little is left to entitle it to the distinction of being a newspaper.  Suffice it then to say, that the package was most truly acceptable, and for which I thank you.  When you next visit these diggings I shall be able to afford you something better for a breakfast than that of my self-praised battercake.  I have made decided improvement in my culinary education since your sojourn with me at Mud Hill, having taken lessons from that old dame, Madame Necessity; and now, instead of confining my experiments in cooking to heavy griddle cakes, I have been elevated to the high dignity of breadbaker.  I most truly hope to be able to give you specimens of my proficiency, at my cabin the coming spring.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-2">A young merchant, otherwise unidentified, for whom Dawlytown was named in 1849.  Hanna, <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of California Land Names</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-3">Colonel Grant.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-4">John Freeland, captain of the Independent Company of Louisiana Volunteers.  William H. Roberts, <HI REND="italics">Mexican War Veterans</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-5">Delano was forty-three.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>I remained mudbound at my quarters at the hill for three weeks, enjoying the <HI REND="italics">magnificent</HI>
073.sgm: scenery of Table Mountain, which was occasionally peeping out of a cloud of fog, or taking a shower bath for days together, as if to drive away the chills and fever of this accursed climate by hydropathy, when at length, between a race of the sun struggling to shine and the rain to PUT HIM OUT, the road became solid enough to keep my cattle from sinking lower down than their bellies in mud, and I availed myself of the opportunity to get through, in which I succeeded by holding my breath and driving two days to get ten miles.  Trouble of conscience for ever leaving home and coming to this <HI REND="italics">delightful</HI>
073.sgm: and Bryant-praised Valley, or something else, produced a severe attack of neuralgia, and I was confined to my bed for three weeks, when I had ample time to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:groan from intense pain and study patience in all sorts of the most approved styles.  On my recovery, for it is a fact that I did not die, I projected a prospecting tour up the South Fork in search of gold and for the purpose of more fully re-establishing my health.  A party of nine was organized, it being dangerous to go with less on account of the hostility of the Indians, and in order to give weight to our enterprise we carried our blankets, five days' rations, making our packs about thirty pounds each, besides our prospecting tools, rifles and ammunition.  We left in buoyant spirits--in fact we were soon convinced that high as our hopes were, we were rising in the world, and at every step became more and more elevated, for such infernal hills and mountains as we passed over--but you have been on the South Fork; you did not carry our packs, though.</p><P>No need of mules here any longer, for after the first day we all became as mulish as the d--l could desire.  We were gone just a week and penetrated the snow above the can&tilde;on, but in return were penetrated with the frost and cold of the high peaks, while the rain sought shelter in our bosoms, on the lower grounds, for it rained every day and night but one while we were gone, and we looked more like drowned rats than gentlemen gold-seekers.  Strange to say, we did not even take a cold, and I gained in strength every day, although wet to the skin all the while.  No doubt we should have been drowned were it not for the large quantities of raw, fat, salt pork which we ate.  Like the ark, we were pitched within and without.  And where was our gold?--echo answers, where! I did not see any, but I saw many places where it ought to be--my pocket, for instance.</p><P>We were fortunate enough, however, to secure a bar,<ANCHOR ID="n9-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and we are making preparations for removing there as soon as possible.  We made some discoveries, too, which may be valuable.  Our location is at Wood's Bar, about four or five miles below the Can&tilde;on,<ANCHOR ID="n9-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: where you will find us.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-6">"Ottawa Bar," below Forbestown, on the South Fork of the Feather River.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-7">This can&tilde;on is apparently the one about a mile and a half above Enterprise.  Cf. p. 92.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>With regard to "Notes on California," I will comply with your request with pleasure, and will embrace my first leisure to write a "plain, unvarnished tale"<ANCHOR ID="n9-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: of things as I see them.  Most of the people who were here in the fall have gone and are going above,<ANCHOR ID="n9-9">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and we have nearly a deserted village.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-8">Shakespeare, <HI REND="italics">Othello</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-9">That is, up the South Fork of the Feather River.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>A. D.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>10.<LB>Sacramento City, March 2, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DEAR <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: --I think the last time I wrote you was from my fortress on Mud Hill (the first mountains from the Valley below my winter quarters), where I lay mud-bound watching " <HI REND="italics">the sun by day and the moon by night</HI>
073.sgm: "<ANCHOR ID="n10-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: for a propitious moment when I might slide home between the showers.  The time at length arrived when the road became firm enough to entitle it to the name of <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
073.sgm:, and I moved my boots with my wagon and its load of truck and plunder to Dawlytown.  There, to compensate me for the weeks of toil I had endured in getting up from the city, the pleasant bath I took in the Yuba, where I very nearly lost my life, wagon, goods and cattle, another three weeks of repose was decreed me by the Fates in the shape of neuralgia, with which I suffered all the pain of "Goblins damned,"<ANCHOR ID="n10-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: but which Dr. Willoughby<ANCHOR ID="n10-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: assured me would leave me in better health than I had seen for years.  Thus far his predictions have been verified, and I am now capable of enduring more fatigue than I ever was before, and Heaven knows I have encountered it.  An excursion in the mountains about the 1st of January followed, which occupied a week, during which it rained night and day constantly, and increased the weight of our packs most sensibly, although "we carried weight" without it, consisting of seven days' rations (which we ate up in six, and feasted on cold water on the seventh), our firearms, ammunition and prospecting tools.  We penetrated about fifty miles among the hills, wading through snow, fording streams deeper than our boots, clinging to rocks in passing precipices, keeping a good lookout for the <HI REND="italics">natives</HI>
073.sgm:, who were ready to "pink" us if caught napping, and faring sumptuously upon hard bread.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-2">Cf. Psalms cxxi: 6.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-3">Shakespeare, <HI REND="italics">Hamlet</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-4">Dr. D. W. C. Willoughby (1814-1875).  Born in Vermont, he studied medicine and settled in Indiana, whence he crossed the plains to California in 1849.  He died in San Francisco.  San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>I made one happy discovery--that the mountains are decidedly the most cold-water country I ever saw, and I give it as my decided opinion--mark me--it is only my own private opinion from which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:all men may differ--that temperance societies are not needed in those elevated ranges, that it is wholly useless to preach temperance principle upon those mountain peaks.  I arrived at this important conclusion from two simple facts--first, because there are neither grog shops nor people there, and second, the most confirmed tippler cannot carry enough of the "ardent" with him to last a week, and he is compelled to use no other beverage than pure cold water.  We finally made a claim on two bars on the South Fork of Feather River which are held by our company of nine men and where we are now engaged in the work which brought us to California.  These bars of which I speak are low places along the river bank where a deposit of sand, gravel and loose rock was made by the water and where an opportunity is given to cut a race by which to drain the stream from its bed.  The gold, being deposited from the hills by the rains and mountain rills into the river, is carried by the current into eddies, holes or pockets, so that it is generally found most abundant in the main bed of streams, and when the water can be turned off it has generally been found to yield a golden harvest.  Of course these bars are sought for and it is considered fortunate to obtain one.  The South Fork of Feather River had been but little prospected until late last fall, and as late as December there were but three or four cabins for the distance of twenty miles above Dawlytown.  I started out the moment my health permitted, though at great risk, the second day of January, when to our great surprise we found a cabin nearly every mile and sometimes little settlements of five to ten houses, so great had been the rush up to the Fork when its deposits became known.--These were almost wholly those persons who had remained on Long's and Bidwell bars (the latter where I made my first <HI REND="italics">debut</HI>
073.sgm: ) and who had supplied themselves with provisions to remain in the mountains during the winter, thus having the advantage of those who might come on in the spring.  When I arrived at Bidwell's or Dawlytown from my last trip to the city, a great change had taken place.  Tents and people had disappeared, and the population was reduced nearly three fourths, but on going up the Fork I found a great part of our old friends in various locations, living snugly in comfortable log cabins on their claims.  The utmost respect is paid by miners to each other's claim.  Some little difficulty occurred last fall between two companies respecting the right to a claim or a portion of it, when a general convention was called at the Oregon Bar on the South Fork on New Year's day, for the purpose of defining what constituted a claim and to have a general and mutual understanding with regard to each other's rights.  Among intelligent and liberal men, this matter was soon settled upon just and equitable principles.</p><P>Every man or company making a claim to a bar or to portions, to put up three written notices giving the boundary of his claim.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:then must take actual possession within ten days and commence his work in some tangible form so that it was apparent he would be a bona fide occupant and not claim to the exclusion of others.  He then registered his name or bar on the books of the Association (thus formed) and became a member, and in the event of others attempting to drive him off, he was entitled to the protection of all the companies constituting the Association.  He was allowed all the bed of the stream which he drained to a medium stage of water and then ten feet front and thirty back from that point.  This is a general outline of the plan, although there are of course a few minor details as the condition of things required, but this is looked to and spoken of along the river with as much deference and respect as if it was the law of the land.  Indeed, as things are now situated in the mines, an action of Congress or of our own Legislature is wholly unnecessary, and if either undertakes to erect a Miners' Code without practical experience, I shall then look for difficulties which will not occur so long as the miners are left to themselves.<ANCHOR ID="n10-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-5">A comprehensive account of California miners' codes and their operation is given in Charles H. Shinn, <HI REND="italics">Mining Camps: A Study in American Frontier Government</HI>
073.sgm:<P>As soon as we made our claims, we commenced preparations to establish them; in due time our cabins were built, although we had to pack our provisions about fifteen miles, over hills that a mule could scarcely pass, and our two races are nearly completed, ready to put in our dams as soon as the spring floods subside.  I never was so much exposed, never worked so hard, never fared so roughly as I did during those preliminary arrangements, and it seemed as if my health and strength gained with the emergency, and I now find myself in more comfortable quarters than I have been in since I have been in California.</p><P>Time will not permit me to give you an account of the flood this winter, but I will simply say that from a high mountain, from which I had an extended view, I estimated that at least one quarter of this Earthly Paradise, this charming and fertile Valley (oh!) was under water.  Hundreds of cattle and mules were drowned and floated down to rejoice with the aromatic scent of their putrid carcasses the refined olfactory nerves of the citizens of Sacramento and other towns springing up on the River--(where's Mr. Bryant?), and the loss of property in Sacramento City by the overflow has been very great.  For a particular description of the scene here I must refer you to the N. O.  <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, whose able and talented correspondent was an eye-witness.<ANCHOR ID="n10-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Among the indignants of the city when the flood was bearing off tents, houses, &amp;c., the Methodist church turned around on its foundation like a dancing master on his heel as if in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:high dudgeon to enquire of the neighboring dwelling as they were about departing:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Ye graceless chiefs, where are ye goin'<LB>While I am here sae busy sowin'?--( <HI REND="italics">Burns</HI>
073.sgm: --not quite),<ANCHOR ID="n10-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<LB></HI>
073.sgm:</p><P>and a steamboat has put a blush on all the canals in Amsterdam, for it actually puffed through the main street and discharged its cargo into Starr, Bensley and Company's store.<ANCHOR ID="n10-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-6">Colonel Grant.  For the great Sacramento flood of 1850 (and the ones of 1852, 1853, 1861, and 1878) see <HI REND="italics">History of Sacramento</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-7">These are Burns' words, but not his lines.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-8">One of the principal stores at Sacramento.  John Bensley (1812-1889), a native of Herkimer County, New York, and a graduate of Columbia College, came to California in 1849.  He organized a water works in San Francisco in 1857, and many other California companies.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:, 127; San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Learning that a "change came o'er the spirit of my dream"<ANCHOR ID="n10-9">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: with regard to the honesty of some of our Californians, and that they were stealing cattle on the plains, with a Digger-like propensity, to supply the places of their own lost ones, I thought it best to go "down into Egypt"<ANCHOR ID="n10-10">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and look after my own, which had been turned out after I reached Dawlytown in the fall.  I succeeded in finding three and, driving them back, brought my wagon to the Valley, and disposed of the whole concern, believing that my prospects in the mines are better than trading.  As I had to come halfway to Sacramento to find a market I just kept on to see if it were not possible to find a letter from home.  I may as well say that I have been disappointed, and the only letter which I have received since I left Ottawa from any friend was one from my wife dated August 25.  This I walked fifteen miles to get when I heard of the arrival of the Express a week ago, and I would have walked a hundred for another with the greatest pleasure.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-9">Byron, <HI REND="italics">The Dream</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-10">Genesis xlii; 2.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>I have written the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: by every opportunity while cross-the plains, have sent a full (or nearly full) copy of my journal from leaving the Missouri up to my arrival in California,<ANCHOR ID="n10-11">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and several other letters, and I have not received even a paper from Ottawa.  Of course this must be the fault of the mails, and not of my friends.  I arrived here day before yesterday at night.--Yesterday morning on going into the street I met Charles Fisher, William Irwin, Captain Reed<ANCHOR ID="n10-12">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and S. B. Gridley from Ottawa,<ANCHOR ID="n10-13">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Mr. Reynolds, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:William Miller, from South Bend, Indiana,<ANCHOR ID="n10-14">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and Colonel Wilson, from Mishawaka, Indiana.<ANCHOR ID="n10-15">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: By some of them I heard of the Dayton Company, who have done very well in the mines, and of Mr. Fredenburg and B. K. Thorn.  The latter I was glad to hear was doing well.  As a general thing those who have staid in the mines, worked steadily, and have not run about prospecting all over the country, have done something.  Those of our South Bend friends that I have met have done something--some of them well.--I met Mr. Rood<ANCHOR ID="n10-16">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: on my way down.--He was going to the Yuba mines in high spirits.  He has located himself at Vernon, twenty-five miles above this place,<ANCHOR ID="n10-17">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and is well satisfied with what he has done and is doing.  W. McNeil is with me (in the mines), a kind-hearted, generous man--as good a fellow as ever trod shoe leather--"may he live a thousand years."<ANCHOR ID="n10-18">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: This is about all the personal news I can give of interest in your community--except the death of James Bacon--he died a short time ago in Yubaville.  I was much surprised on coming to the Valley to see the change which a few weeks have wrought by our indefatigable Anglo-Saxons.  When I made my trip down from Lawson's in September, there were but three houses or ranchos on the road, a distance of perhaps an hundred and twenty or twenty-five miles.  There may have been half a dozen on and off the road in the Valley.  Now there is a house every five or six miles, not only on the road where water can be obtained even where the land has been overflowed, but from Vernon down houses appear nearly every mile, and I was assured that this was the case at least seventy miles above Lawson's.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-11">Cf. p. 19.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-12">Henry J. Reed (b. 1814), of Ottawa.  He came to La Salle County from Erie, Pennsylvania, in 1834 and served in the Mexican War, becoming a captain.  In 1849 he went to California and remained two years, but returned to Ottawa to settle down as a farmer.  <HI REND="italics">History of LaSalle County, Illinois</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-13">Samuel B. Gridley (d. 1876) was prominent for over forty years at Ottawa as a dealer in dry goods and manager of a gas company.  <HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New</HI>
073.sgm:, 38, 77; Elmer Bladwin, <HI REND="italics">History of LaSalle County, Illinois</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-14">William Miller went overland from South Bend to California in 1849 and remained until 1852, when he returned to South Bend to become a successful contractor, miller, banker, and mayor.  Goodspeed Bros.,  <HI REND="italics">Pictoral and Biographical Memoirs of Elkhart and St. Joseph Counties, Indiana</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-15">Charles Lincoln Wilson (1813-1890).  Born in Maine, he crossed the plains and mountains to San Francisco in 1849 and brought the first steamer to the upper waters of the Sacramento River, all the way to Lassen's.  He was the first promoter of a Sacramento Valley railroad.  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Themis</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-16">Walter D. Rood, from the Ottawa region.  "In 1849 he went to California with the Green party.  Twenty years later he returned to LaSalle County."  <HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-17">The name Vernon was changed to Verona in 1906.  Gudde, <HI REND="italics">California Place Names</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-18">William McNeil, of Ottawa.  <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, February 9, 1850; <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>New towns are springing up, defective as titles are, and business seems thriving in them all.  On reaching the Yuba, I found the town of Marysville, where three months ago only an adobe house existed; a mile below on the Feather is Yuba City, which at that time did not contain a house; two miles below this Eliza, just commenced and buildings going up rapidly; at Bear Creek, where I lost an ox last fall in a swamp, a town plot is being surveyed, and at the mouth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:of Feather River, where late in the fall only a ranch existed, Nicolaus is laid out, houses going rapidly up, and lots selling off like hot cakes.<ANCHOR ID="n10-19">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: At the upper towns lots sell for from five hundred to three thousand dollars, and so with the lower towns.  Although this city has been under water, lots are still advancing and improvements going on continually.  A levee will be built around it to keep out the floods, and it must always be a town of importance, but in all these places the time will, must, come when the bubble will burst and many individuals be ruined.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-19">This town was named after Nicolaus Allgeier, a Hudson's Bay trapper who came to California in 1840, worked for Sutter, and settled here about 1846.  Hanna, <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of California Land Names</HI>
073.sgm:.  Colonel Grant advertised lots at Nicolaus.  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
073.sgm:<P>During the flood a large portion of the Valley was overflowed between the Yuba and Bear Creek.  A Mr. Spencer, at whose house I stopped in my peregrination, told me he was obliged to crawl onto the roof of his house to save himself, although it stands at least thirty feet above the river, and that a neighbor sailed in a boat back to the mountains, some twelve or fifteen miles.--Now, the roads are good, the grass green, and the plain dotted with herds of cattle, where a few days ago all was a wide waste of turbid water.</p><P>And this is the charming Valley you have read so much of at home, as surpassing everything else in loveliness.  I am much amused at the sage remarks of some of the New York editors, respecting California.  In speaking of the gold after its exhaustion, they dilate upon its agricultural capacities, its central position, its high destiny, &amp;c.  (Well, I <HI REND="italics">reckon</HI>
073.sgm: it is about in the middle of the earth, if you begin to measure exactly opposite, &amp;c.)  It is no more fit for farming purposes than I am for preaching.  Exhaust the gold and it will no longer attract ships to its shore only to carry back the poor devils who are caught here in search of El Dorado, and instead of ships taking in cargoes of tea at San Francisco, they will quietly pursue their way from the Atlantic ports through the Isthmus canal, if it is built; if not, around the Cape, wind and weather permitting, to Canton, and receive their lading as usual from the brother of the sun and moon, and seven stars, and other planets.  But as the auctioneer says, "I can't dwell;" nobody will believe it till they come and see--come then and get all the gold you can, for sure enough <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
073.sgm: is here, <HI REND="italics">if you can get it</HI>
073.sgm:; then you may talk understandingly of its high destiny and superior advantages over your really rich, beautiful and fertile prairies at home.  Had I not seen them I might have thought the Valley of the Sacramento beautiful, but I have seen them.--Beauty is a comparative quality, and by that standard I judge.</p><P>Among the most pleasant acquaintance which I have formed in this "never-saw-the-like country" is that of Joseph Grant, Esq., the accomplished correspondent of the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>Misery makes strange bedfellows, saith the adage, and a day's walk together in the mountains during the rains, and a night spent in company at my ranch on Mud Hill, opened the door of our hearts, and we walked into an intellectual feast that I shall never forget.  I do not mean to eulogize any man, but here where there are so many castes, shades and qualities, and when hardships have been mutually endured, and you find a man stands upon his own bottom through it all without flinching, your heart will warm towards him in spite of you.  Picture to yourself a well-educated, well-bred, open-hearted gentleman, one of much thought, originality of mind, just conceptions, with a rare knowledge of human nature <HI REND="italics">as it is</HI>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:this winter.  During the rains, boats occasionally ascend Feather River with supplies nearly to the mountains.  My neighbor and friend, Mr. Dawly, who is trading, has associated with a jovial, good-hearted man yclept Captain Freeland, late of the U. S. Army, and as brave a man as any who was at the storming of Chapultepec.  They have a boat on the river, and Captain Freeland happened to be below and on his way to the city.  One afternoon the hands on board wanted some fresh meat, and Freeland and the captain of the boat went on shore to try to kill a deer.  A short walk brought them to the open plain where they discovered two men butchering a wild ox.  "Ah, my fine fellow, we've caught you at it," shouted Freeland.  "We have you now sure enough."  Much to his surprise, the two men seized their arms, &amp;c., and started off at full run across the plain.  The secret was out.  They had stolen the ox, and supposing Freeland and his companion to belong to the ranch and the owners, they took to their heels.  Freeland and the captain walked up and finished the butchering and took possession of the beef and carried it to the boat and were supplied with all the fresh meat they wanted for many a day.  My time has expired, and I can give you no more <HI REND="italics">on dits</HI>
073.sgm: now.  You will hear from me from time to time.  Direct your papers and letters to me at Sacramento City--I may stand a remote chance of getting them.</p><P>Truly yours,</p><P>A. Delano.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II.<LB>Ottawa Bar, March 12, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DEAR SIR--Without offering any other apology for trespassing on your time than my own inclination and the kind remembrances of our acquaintance, I sit down on a rainy day to write you of California.  It is quite likely that you are, ere this, surfeited with such news, for it must be that the papers are filled with the lucubrations of a multitude of letter-writers, but the changes in this recently explored country are so great that it would almost be a constant occupation for a man to keep pace with them with his pen.  The great emigration last year has indeed wrought great changes in the aspect of things socially and politically, and the vast crowd that we learn is coming out the present season will not experience the same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:hardships and destitution on their arrival that we did, although they will have enough, God knows, to curse the day they set out.  On our arrival in the Valley last year, there were but four ranchos on the road for a distance of two hundred miles (from Reading's diggings<ANCHOR ID="n11-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: to Sacramento City), and now there are stopping places and towns at convenient distances along the whole route where the necessaries of life can be obtained, although at exorbitant rates, while that character for unheard-of honesty among the people in towns where thousands of dollars worth of property lay continually exposed night and day is undergoing a change.  A recent visit to Sacramento made me cognizant of the great and rapid change three months had produced.  I found towns springing up along the banks of the navigable streams, with speculation rife in town lots as you ever knew it in the city where ninety days ago not a single house stood.  Lots are selling in these newly laid-out towns from five hundred to three or four thousand dollars, with titles not worth a pin, and the whole country in my humble opinion is bound to be a scene of litigation and a sea of trouble.  The whole domain of the inhabitable portions of Alta California consists chiefly of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys.  But a small portion of these are any way suited for agricultural purposes, and much of that even is overflowed by the floods of winter and spring, and this whole country is in the hands of a few, say forty or fifty men, who claim the territory under Mexican grants.  Sutter, for instance, lays claim to a hundred square miles, Lawson to ten, Davis to as much more, while Neal,<ANCHOR ID="n11-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Potter,<ANCHOR ID="n11-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and Reading take the rest, occupying--rather claiming, the Valley of the Sacramento from Sacramento City to Reading's mines.  The southern portions of the country are held in the same way by the very few.  In the meantime the emigration of last year is here and many who came with families for the purpose of making a permanent home, and others who, unable to dig or disappointed in mining, are disposed to work on lands which they thought originally belonged to <HI REND="italics">our government</HI>
073.sgm:, have taken possession upon the principle and are warned off by these Mexican claimants.  Men who have braved the perils of an overland journey to this country and who, perhaps, are unable to return, will have a home.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, May 18, 1850.  The editor accounts for the formal tone of this letter by explaining that it was written to Judge John D. Caton (1812-1895), of Ottawa.  He was born at Monroe, New York, practiced law at Utica, and in 1839 went to Illinois, where he was Justice of the State Supreme Court, 1842-1864.  <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:, Delano signs the letter "Fraternally yours," indicating that Caton was a brother in the I.O.O.F., and commends his family "to the care of my brethren."  Cf.  <HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-2">On Clear Creek in present-day Shasta County.  Pierson B. Reading (1816-1869) came overland to California in 1843, worked for Sutter as clerk and chief of trappers, and secured the grant of Santa Buenaventura rancho in 1844.  Reading served in the California Battalion, 1846-1847, as a major, and ran for governor in 1851.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-3">Samuel Neal (d. 1859) came to California in 1844, worked for Sutter, and received a Mexican grant near present-day Chico.  He helped Fremont in the insurrection of 1846.  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:, August 22-23, 30, 1859; Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-4">John Potter settled in the Chico region, 1844-1846, and in 1848 profitably employed Indians in the mines.  He died about 1851.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>They would be willing that these claimants and pioneers should have a princely fortune, perhaps, but they will have an abiding place <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:for themselves, their wives and children, and any attempt to dislodge them will produce a combination and union which will require a military force to break up.  Should the government recognize these Mexican grants, it places the multitude at the mercy of the few, engrafting in fact the peon system of Mexico or the feudal tenure of Europe upon our republican institutions in California, making a few lords of the soil with a multitude of dependents upon their will, a state of things to which our Anglo-Saxon race are strangers and to which they will not submit.  Should the government not acknowledge the right of these Mexican claims, and assume the fee simple of the soil in itself, and by its justice and liberality confirm the squatters in their professions even by paying a fixed price for their lands, much of the difficulty will be obviated, and so too even if government concurs in the validity of those claims, if it <HI REND="italics">will buy out</HI>
073.sgm: the claimants and then confirm to the present occupants the righ of pre-emption.  In this unsettled state of things, towns are laid out, lots and ranches change hands, and at prices, too, that cannot be sustained even in this land of gold; so that when the bubble bursts, as it surely will, litigation, failures and trouble must ensue, making a paradise for lawyers and a hell for clients.<ANCHOR ID="n11-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I do not anticipate for California that high destiny which many of our citizens at home do.  I have read several plausible and well-written editorials upon the subject in various city papers, but they originated with men either interested in some scheme or unacquainted with the actual condition of the country.  I believe that in political economy every prosperous State must depend upon its own proper resources for its prosperity.  For instance, New England has its waterpower, its wool, &amp;c.; the Middle Western and Southern states have their crops, timber, wool, coal, tobacco, sugar, &amp;c.,&amp;c., to give employment to the shipping of our seaboard.  As an agricultural country, California will amount to nothing.  The climate and most of the soil is antagonistic, and an ordinary population must be fed and clothed by importation.  Its true source of wealth is in its mines, and so long as they continue prolific, commerce to a certain extent will be drawn to its shores.  Its being a halfway house to China amounts to nothing.  A merchant in New York fitting out a ship for a load of tea will avail himself of the Isthmus canal when completed, but intsead of purchasing a cargo at San Francisco, paying there a commission and profit, storage, &amp;c., will send his ship direct as usual to Canton, and buy from first hands, and then return by the usual route to New York, rather than make a forty or fifty days' sail out of the way of San Francisco.  If a railroad is even built from the States, it cannot compete in prices of freight with steamships or sail vessels and pay a profit to the San Francisco dealer.  A railroad, however, will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:benefit the <HI REND="italics">traveling</HI>
073.sgm: community and be beneficial as a communication.  The gold mines are the true and legitimate source of wealth of California, and after their exhaustion, you may mark the decline of this unjustly praised country.  It may reach a mushroom growth, but it will eventually be thrown upon its own resources and sink to its own proper level.  Oregon will be substantially benefited; for there, wheat can be grown and its waterpower will produce the flour to feed California, while its manufactures of woolen goods will be exchanged for the mineral wealth of its sister State.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-5">Cf. Royce, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
073.sgm:<P>I found in my recent visit below<ANCHOR ID="n11-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: that great anticipations were formed as to the amount of gold to be raised the coming season in the mines.  This, I think, will be in some measure justified.  A much larger number of persons are engaged in the mines, than heretofore--new mines are opened--new discoveries are made, and the use of quicksilver will be more general than usual in mining.  The use of the latter in separating the gold from the sand is beginning to be understood, and the quality of fine gold obtained by its aid is nearly doubled while the expense is but little increased.  Bars that have been worked over in the old mode by the common rocker will pay well with a quicksilver machine.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-6">To Sacramento the previous October.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>I have heard of some extraordinary results, and we shall work the bars in which I am concerned in that way, though you will always bear in mind that no gold can be obtained only by hard labor, privation and hardships.</p><P>There are two things which cannot be ascertained with any certainty--the actual number of men engaged in the mines and the amount of gold raised.  I have seen statements of arrivals of gold in the United States, and the average amount is sometimes compared with the numbers who left the States.  Now the fact is that thousands who came over are not engaged in mining, while a large amount of that which is raised goes to Oregon, Mexico, Chile and South America, the Sandwich Islands, China and Europe without even passing through the United States.  This drain of gold to foreign nations might be stopped by an action of our government, in which it would be heartily seconded by the American population here.  I surely can see no more injustice in such a measure than in forbidding foreigners from cutting timber on our public lands.  There is one thing which even our government may find a difficulty in carrying out, and that is the laying out of mines in lots.  This is a matter which has already regulated itself, and miners have made their own laws, which are as much respected as any action of Congress can be, for they are founded upon justice and equity.</p><P>It amounts simply to about this: that a man is entitled to work <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
073.sgm: that portion of a stream he actually turns from its bed, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:the streams are of such a nature that very extensive claims cannot be made, while numerous bars afford room for many occupants.  No set of men, without being acquainted with localities and the " <HI REND="italics">modus operandi</HI>
073.sgm: " of mining, can make good laws regulating claims.  The wisest thing Congress can do, at present at least, is to pass the subject " <HI REND="italics">sub silento</HI>
073.sgm:."<ANCHOR ID="n11-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Knowing, as you do, the character of the miners, you will not wonder at the order and good feeling that pervades generally throughout, and so far I have known of no difficulty of a serious nature since my residence in the mines. A mint is much needed here, for now gold dust sells at sixteen dollars per ounce, when its actual value is eighteen to twenty dollars, and then in purchasing drafts in addition to that rate for gold we are obliged to pay from five to ten per cent. premium, or at that rate, for the transportation of gold dust to the States.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-7">Silently.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>At the close of the digging season last fall a large portion of the miners went to Sacramento and San Francisco.  The most of these were men who had come into the mines late and had barely accumulated a few hundred dollars, while the high price of provisions made them fancy that while they could not subsist in the mines, the more moderate rates in the cities would enable them to get through the winter with their slender means.  Among them, however, were many who had made nothing and who depended on their labor there for support.  The consequence was, those places were soon filled with a needy crowd.  Wages fell, for there was no business at that season, and want and suffering and starvation stared them full in the face.  The dissipations, too, of the city induced many who had a little money to indulge, and they were soon left penniless.  And then came the other alternative.  Stealing became as common as before it had been unknown, and property was no longer safe in being exposed, and it now has to be guarded with the same care as in a <HI REND="italics">civilized</HI>
073.sgm: country, where <HI REND="italics">law and order</HI>
073.sgm: prevail.  I am happy to say that in the mines things in this respect remain in " <HI REND="italics">statu quo</HI>
073.sgm:."--Gambling, too, maintains its foothold in the old towns as well as the new.  Every public house, every saloon (and there are multitudes of splendid ones), has its band of music to attract a crowd and a row of gambling tables around their spacious halls.  I know of a young man who had worked till he had got $18,000 and started for home.  On reaching Sacramento, he placed $16,000 in the hands of a friend to keep while he took the $2,000 and went to the monte table.  He soon lost it, and went to his friend and took the $16,000 to redeem his luck.  This he lost also, and instead of going home, his own folly forced him back into the mines a penniless wretch.</p><P>Another went in with his fall's labor in his pocket, about $1,600 or $1,800.  This he soon lost, and with perfect <HI REND="italics">sang froid</HI>
073.sgm: he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:exclaimed--"Gentlemen, you have got all my money--give me an ounce to get back to the mines with."  The gambler handed him sixteen dollars without a word, and the poor fool went back to his labor and his privations again.  These occurred but a few days ago.</p><P>Living has been very dear in the country; if a man could make each day pay its way during the winter, he was doing well on the whole.  Those who remained in the mines through the winter were those chiefly who had been able and fortunate enough to secure provisions before the rains set in.  Yet many trusted to luck for supplies.--I know two men who paid out $1,400 from the middle of November to the middle of February for their provisions alone.  This is easily enough accounted for by flour $300 per bbl., pork $200, sugar $1 per pound, molasses $12 per gallon, vinegar $5, potatoes 75c. to $1.25 per <HI REND="italics">pound</HI>
073.sgm:, &amp;c. &amp;c.  My recent trip to Sacramento and back actually cost me a hundred dollars, traveling expenses, though I slept on the ground and indulged in no luxuries, and it is only one hundred miles.  I walked all the way down to within twenty-five miles, and when I came back I rode about half way in the steamboat and walked the rest.  I paid an ounce to have a bag of clothes carried twelve miles.  The price of a meal is now $1.50 everywhere, a chance to sleep under a tent or roof $1.00, and you have to find your own bedding and blankets.  At only two places in California have I ever found milk for my coffee, and I never saw butter on the dinner table.  A common (and very common too) dried apple pie costs a dollar, a small baker's loaf, fifty cents.  If you feel aristocratic enough to indulge in oysters, half a dozen costs $1.50.  By the way, I never go within smelling distance of them, they smell so strong of the pocket.  Oranges are from 75c. to $1 each, ale and cider 25c. per glass, so that it pays a man to drink nothing but cold water.  We pay 50c. to get our letters carried to a post office, and if any are brought back (a circumstance which has happened to me in only one solitary instance) we pay from $1 to $2, as we <HI REND="italics">can light upon chaps</HI>
073.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n11-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and 40c. postage.  Do you not think the mines ought to yield well to live in such a country?  I know of four men who washed out $100,000 in four weeks, sold their claim for $1,000, which was paid in two days, and $4,000 taken out before the rains set in.  I have picked up gold on a sidehill after a rain, but in quantity too small to pay.  As an offset I know of hundreds who have made nothing in weeks of hard labor, of those who have died miserably for want of medicine and mere necessaries, and those whose constitutions are ruined forever before they could earn a dollar.  Such is California now, and such will be the fate of thousands that are rushing in from the States with high hopes and bright anticipations.  I had no idea of inflicting a letter upon you of such unconscionable length, and although there is still much left untold, I will not trespass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:longer on your patience.  I am in better health than I have been in five years, though I have had a severe acclimation, and I have at least a year of hard labor before me in working out the bars I have become possessed of.  During my uncertain absence, I commend my family to the care of my brethren, and I do not doubt that they will receive from you such attention as your kindness of heart will prompt you to bestow.  My kind regards to Mrs. C.<ANCHOR ID="n11-9">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I need scarcely say that I shall be glad to hear from you.  Direct all communications to Sacramento City.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-8">Find someone to pay.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-9">Laura Adelaide Sherrill Caton (d. 1892); she was married in 1835.  <HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New, 90; U. S. Biographical Dictionary and Portrait Gallery: Illinois Volume</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Fraternally yours,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p><illus entity="a073-0011" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>12.<LB>Ottawa Bar, Feather River,<ANCHOR ID="n12-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>IF CALIFORNIA at this moment has little real claim to notoriety among the countries of the globe, it may be entitled the land of incidents, for you can scarcely make a journey of twenty miles without meeting some adventure worthy a paragraph.  It was during a walk of ten miles in the mountains, through a drizzling rain in November, that I became acquainted with our mutual friend, G--.<ANCHOR ID="n12-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: My wagon and goods lay mudbound on the brow of the first mountain above the Valley, and I had built a bower (not of roses) by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:roadside, waiting the course of the storms, hoping there might be a cessation of strife between the sun and rain long enough to enable me to get up to my location at Dawlytown.  It was during a casual visit to my headquarters that I saw Mr. G- -, and on my return he was my companion and guest for the night.  It is by his request that I write you, though the subject is an "oft-told tale" and nothing new can well be added.  I speak of California--of California as I found it.  Not the land of Ophir, where Solomon got his gold, nor of the dwelling-place of the Genius of Aladdin, but simply of one hundred and thirty miles of the famed Valley of the Sacramento and of the neighboring mountains which I have traveled over.  I am one of that class of nomad Anglo-Saxons who, in their modest desire of obtaining sudden wealth by picking the golden lumps from the piles which the mountain groaned under here (once), crossed the plains last summer, and in order to get to the gold region before all others, took the cut-off to Feather River, about sixty-five miles above the sink of Mary's River.<ANCHOR ID="n12-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: For this happy hit, I had the pleasure of going four hundred miles further than by the old road; of living three weeks on hard bread and coffee, and nothing else; of fighting Indians nearly all the way; and finally of reaching the confines of El Dorado four weeks later than those who kept the "even tenor of their way"<ANCHOR ID="n12-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: on the old route.  All that I had read of the Valley of the Sacramento, previous to leaving the States, was highly in favor of its beauty, the fertility of its soil, the salubrity of its climate, and the clearness of its atmosphere, all of which led me to expect a kind of natural Eden, and by passing many weeks on barren sand plains, nearly destitute of vegetation, or crossing rocky and barren mountains, I was in a good condition to appreciate any change for the better.  The view from the mountain, as far as I could see, was pleasant, but I thought at the moment that it would not compare with the rich views of many of our western prairies; and I think so still.  The following is a short extract from my journal on the day I reached the Valley, which is to the point on the first and third counts:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-2">Grant.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-3">The Lassen Trail left the Humboldt (or Mary's) before the sink. Cf. pp. 16-17, 23.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-4">Cf. Thomas Gray, <HI REND="italics">Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard</HI>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"September 16</HEAD>
073.sgm:<P>--On regaining the road and ascending a high hill, the Valley of the Sacramento lay before me, five or six miles distant.  I could discern green trees and a level bottom, but the day was too smoky for an extended view."</p><P>There are trees, and occasionally groves, but in nearly every instance they are on the banks of the stream, or on soil that is subject to being overflowed by the winter floods, or where sloughs or wet places moisten the earth sufficiently to afford sap to sustain their growth.  The trees in the Valley are of the stunted growth; you can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:scarcely find one of eighteen inches in diameter that is sound at the butt or fit for staves.  They are often large at the butt and branch out to an enormous distance, but do not grow tall and thrifty, as we see them in the mountains or at home.</p><P>In immediate proximity to the streams, the soil appears fertile, and good crops of wheat can be raised if the land can be irrigated.  But three or four miles from the stream, unless in the vicinity of sloughs, the grass is dry and crisp by August, and where any attempt is made at farming, deep trenches are dug around the field, from some creek, to irrigate the dry and parched soil.  I have not seen any as large potatoes here even as is common at home, and they can grow only in the neighborhood of streams.</p><P>Extract 2.--"For some miles after reaching the Valley the ground was covered with round stone and debris which appeared to have been originally thrown out by some volcano, and then washed by floods to their present place of deposit."</p><P>I say without hesitation, let no man come here for agricultural speculation while there is a corner left between the Alleghenies and the Platte.  The soil is no better than the prairies of Indiana, Illinois and Missouri, while rain rarely falls between June and November.</p><P>In speaking of the salubrity of the climate, Mr. Bryant says (I quote from memory) that "the purity of the air is such that dead carcasses of animals emit no offensive smell.<ANCHOR ID="n12-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-5">Cf. p. 27.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>This may be so on the Coast, for I have not yet been there; but unless Mr. B.'s olfactory nerves are hopelessly disordered, he must be convinced by this time that it will not apply to the Valley of the Sacramento.  The stench around Sacramento City in September and October was almost insufferable, arising from putrid carcasses of mules and oxen that had perished in the mire of the slough on the north side of the city, and nowhere in the Valley where I have been, have I found it different in this respect from the States.  So far as my observation extends I should judge that five sixths of the emigrants from the States have suffered from sickness--bloody flux, diarrhea, and chills and fever, and I have been told by those who have lived here three and four years that they are subject to the same diseases.  This must always be so, for the fervid heat of the summer sun produces rapid decay of vegetable and animal matter along the low grounds, and the cold nights are on the other extreme, which no prudence can obviate.  I never saw so much suffering and misery from disease in all my life as I have seen during a five months' residence in California.</p><P>A great share of those who arrived in the Valley and the mines in good health were, more or less, stricken by disease, and I could give you many heart-rending individual cases.  It is more than an even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>So you see that you have to travel long distances for water in the season you need it most.  As for the clearness of the atmosphere, it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"Nov. 12:</HEAD>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:certain distance where the depth of the ravine is about the same and find it--of course in greater or less quantities, for it does not appear to be equally distributed.  But exciting as the existence of gold is in the mountains, it is by no means certain that anyone can get it.  The labor of digging it has not been understood, nor the risks and exposure of finding it appreciated.  It does not lay on top of the ground to be picked up like acorns under an oak.  To begin the process then.  The gold-hunter must first find a location.</p><P>To do this, he puts five or six days' rations into his knapsack, straps his blankets to his shoulders, for nobody moves here without his bed on his back, takes a pick, pan and shovel, firearms and ammunition, making his load fifty pounds if he is determined to succeed before he returns.  Then he follows the course of some stream up the mountains, climbing high hills, descending deep ravines, day after day, sleeping on the ground at night, clambering over rocks along the stream, and loosening the dirt with his pick occasionally to try his luck.  When he finds it in apparent quantity to pay for working he returns, in order to get ready to go to work.</p><P>He either gets a mule or takes provisions on his back, and exploring a road to his location that a mule can get over, though this cannot always be found, he returns to "dig for gold."</p><P>If he works in the bank, he digs down till he comes to the <HI REND="italics">base rock</HI>
073.sgm: or to hard clay, and then washes the dirt nearest to and on the rock, and in the crevices.  If he works in the bed of the stream, he often finds it necessary to turn the water through a side race, which is a work of much labor, and then he must move the gravel, rocks and stones, sometimes to the depth of six or seven feet, until he comes to the <HI REND="italics">bed stone</HI>
073.sgm:, where the gold is mixed with the last dirt, which he washes out.  He sometimes finds lumps of gold lodged in the crevices after he removes the earth, but as a general thing he has to perform a vast deal of hard labor before he gets to the base rock.  The reason of gold always being at the bottom, you know, is because it has more density than sand or gravel, and when it is washed by water, of course sinks first.  A good deal of mirth has been excited among the miners at reading a notice in the papers that some wise citizens of Chicago are coming out with a mud machine attached to a scow, to scrape up the mud from the bed of the Sacramento and wash it for gold.  Before they get a scale, they will have to scrape the mud to the base rock, and then go down in diving bells and dig the dirt out of the crevices with spoons, and then, as the Indian said of the white man, it's " <HI REND="italics">mighty onsartain</HI>
073.sgm:."  The miner may spend weeks and scarcely get enough to pay his board; and this has been the case with, I may well say, thousands the past fall.  Again: he may be fortunate and strike a good place, and take up thousands of dollars.  When this last is the case, it is sounded far and near; every paper is ringing with it, and more converts to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:mountains about fifty miles, and the Lord only knows how much farther we should have gone had our provisions held out; but stomachs are stubborn things to contend with, and we were finally compelled, by "stress of weather and short allowance," to face about and made tracks for the settlements, tying our girths pretty tight about us on the last day to keep our stomachs quiet.  The result of our wild goose chase was a knowledge of the country, a discovery of dry diggings on the mountain, a good track for a road, and the location of two bars on the river.  And then to take possession of our bars before anybody else, a cabin must be built, provisions got up over a track that a mule could hardly walk.  More labor, more exposure; but " <HI REND="italics">veni, vidi, vici</HI>
073.sgm:."  We took our rations again, and axes, and set out.  The logs were cut and rolled together, shingles split out of the beautiful pine and put on the roof, a large fireplace and chimney built, stools, shelves, bedsteads, and door made, &amp;c., &amp;c., all of which occupied about ten days, and it rained most of the time, while two more of the company were engaged in getting up provisions.  At last we are comfortably settled in the best quarters which I have found in California, with enough to eat, such as it is, a good roof over us, and any amount of hard work before us, and perhaps not a dollar in either bar to repay our toil, or it may be a fortune.  But we shall try.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"To catch Dame Fortune's golden smile,<LB>Assiduously wait upon her;<LB>And gather <HI REND="italics">gold</HI>
073.sgm: by every wile<LB>That's justified by"--confounded hard work.<ANCHOR ID="n12-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<LB></HI>
073.sgm:</p><P>The last line doesn't rhyme exactly, but it's "true as preaching."  So you see an inkling of life in the mines, though the half is not told.  There is one thing I beg leave to speak of, and that is the perfect equality which reigns with us.  Sparta could not hold a candle to it.  The judge, the ex-member of Congress, the lawyer, the merchant, the farmer, the mechanic, the sailor, the soldier, the scholar, all grades, shades and classes, "mingle, mingle, mingle," and you would as often take the dunce for the judge, as the judge for himself.  The height of fashion is to cook your own grub and carry your own basket on your back, while your holiday suit, like my own, is-- <HI REND="italics">mem</HI>
073.sgm:.--a soiled buckskin coat, a tattered vest, pants like Noah's ark, with a multitude of windows and a large doorway in the seat, socks with tops but no bottoms, cowhide boots with your toes peeping out like frogs to view the weather, while this image of our Maker is topped out with a hat that looks as if it had had the ague since it was first made, for its rags and tatters seem to have conned the beggar's petition by heart--</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh, pity the sorrows of a poor old--hat,<LB></HI>
073.sgm:</p><P>while--but look in that pocket looking-glass--you haven't shaved for the last three months.  No soap is no excuse; you might have singed it off with a burning pine knot.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-8">Cf. Burns, Epistle to a Young Friend.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Now, Mr. Editor, if you have any doubt of the truth of this description of a miner's appearance, just come and see for yourself, and I will wager my hat (and if I lose it I shall have none at all) against a year's subscription to the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>13.<LB>Dawlytown, California, April 4, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n13-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>ON MY return from the mountains, I found the water too high for mining operations, and we probably shall be unable to do but little before the 1st of June, when the rains are over and the snows melted.  And here is one of the drawbacks upon mining.  During the winter, no man can work for the rains, and on the streams the water continues so high from melting snows and spring rains that, on Feather River at least, little or nothing can be done till June.  In August, the intense heat of the sun drives the miners from the ravines, so that really about four months of the year only can be taken as a <HI REND="italics">maximum</HI>
073.sgm: for mining on the rivers.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<P>As high as this stream is worked, it is chiefly done by throwing dams across at the head of bars, and the water is turned from its bed through a race, and the bed of the stream is then worked out.  I do not know of a single bar for forty miles up from the Valley, that is not claimed by companies who have their races dug and who will put in their dams as soon as the water falls sufficiently.  Hitherto, the common rocker has been in general use, but now quicksilver machines are introduced and, by another season, will most probably supersede the old cradle.  Little or nothing is lost by these machines, and the results have sometimes been astonishing, even on bars which have been worked over by the old rocker.  A new and expeditious mode of building dams has been recently introduced which promises much success.  It is simply filling bags with sand and laying them on each other, breaking joints like laying up bricks in a wall.  They become compact and shut out the water completely, while an efficient dam can be built in a few hours.</p><P>As a general thing, the health of those who remained in the mines during the winter is good, and those who survived the sickness and exposure of last fall are in robust health.  Still, whether they will be able to stand the labor and intense heat of summer remains to be seen.  Provisions are now obtained in the mines with much less difficulty than they were last fall, and in greater variety, so that the meagre diet of the miners can be replaced by that more healthful.  Trading establishments keep pace with the crowds forcing their way into the mountain recesses, and competition is rapidly reducing the exorbitant prices which were common last fall.  Still prices are high.  Labor in the mines is worth from ten to twelve dollars per day; a single meal, not only in the mountains but in the Valley generally, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:is $1.50.  New towns are springing up at points convenient to the mines, and speculations in town lots with dubious titles are as rife as they were at home in 1836.</p><P>High water preventing any mining operations, I came down to this place a few days ago, where I shall remain until the streams are low enough to work in the mines.  In November last, there was but a single adobe house here.  Now there is a town with a population of a thousand souls, an active, busy stirring place, at the mouth of the Yuba, with a fleet of whale boats, small schooners, and, during the floods, daily steamboats, discharging cargoes on the levee.<ANCHOR ID="n13-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: But for some of the <HI REND="italics">unique</HI>
073.sgm: California buildings, wood and cloth combined, and the costume and peculiar habits of the citizens, you might well fancy yourself still at home in the "land o' the leal."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-2">This could only be Marysville.  Cf.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>One of the peculiar concomitants of a town in Alta California is gambling.  The most spacious tents and halls are rather gorgeously fitted up, decorated with pictures, and at one end a splendid bar affords the means of giving courage to the unsophisticated, and enables him to lose in a few moments the hard earnings of months of toil and privations, while around the room rows of tables stand, with piles of money, with various games to "take the stranger in."  At some of the tables, Mexican women preside at <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
073.sgm:, and they always get a crowd around them.  I was taken a little aback yesterday at seeing a young woman perambulating the streets in men's attire.  I was told she was married.  It is certain she has a marvelous penchant for wearing the breeches, and her husband might as well assume petticoats at once.  It is not uncommon to see Mexican women astride of horses, and they ride well too.  We do not grow fastidious in such matters, after living among Indians who have worn Adam and Eve's morning dresses all their lives.  As brandy, ale, wine, cider, &amp;c., cost only two bits a drink now, any fool can afford to drink, and you would be astonished at the number of such fools among us.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"E'en ministers ha' been ken'd<LB>At times a rousing whid to vend,<LB>An nail't wi' scripture,"<ANCHOR ID="n13-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<LB></HI>
073.sgm:</p><P>and I was rather more amused than edified last Sunday by hearing a reverend gentleman of the Methodist persuasion holding forth the sublime truths of Sacred Writ from a pile of boards in the public square and preaching the necessity of regeneration.  He kept a drinking house in one of the back streets, and could at any time give practical evidence of the power of spirit.  After all this strange medley of right and wrong, of what we have been taught to look on as good or bad, the principle of law and order still exists, and crime, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:aggression or violent outbreaks are as unusual as in the States; and I do not doubt that, in the course of time, future emigrations, as well as the early habits of those now here, will give tone to society in California, and out of this chaos a different state of things will be produced.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-3">Cf. Burns, <HI REND="italics">Death and Doctor Hornbook</HI>
073.sgm:<P>A large yield from the mines is anticipated the present season, and this is justly predicated upon two reasons.  There are many more engaged in mining, and the work is carried on more scientifically with the use of quicksilver.  You cannot judge of the amount of gold raised here by quotations from arrivals in the United States.  Large amounts go to Oregon, the Sandwich Islands, Mexico, South America, Europe, and even China, of which you receive no advices.</p><P>That we are advancing in the science of law, especially for the punishment of offenders, you will readily acknowledge from one of the incidents of the day.  Last night, one of the gambling houses of this town was <HI REND="italics">slit</HI>
073.sgm: through with a knife, and some thieves entered and stole a trunk belonging to the proprietor, containing a thousand dollars.  This morning, one of the thieves offered a pistol for sale that was in the trunk, which led to his detection and that of an accomplice.  A grand jury was summoned, and one of the culprits plead guilty.  A true bill was found against both, and a petit jury was impanelled forthwith before the alcalde.  The tide of fortune was against the culprits, and they were sentenced each to receive one hundred lashes on the bare back, and, if found in town in the morning, a fine of a thousand dollars and two years' labor in the chain gang of San Francisco.  Sentence was immediately executed.  They were tied to a tree, their backs laid bare, and a brawny arm soon paid them the penalty of dishonesty, much to the edification of a large throng of bystanders in the public square.  One of them appeared penitent and was probably young in crime; the other, when his back was bared, showed indubitable proof of a former acquaintance with the cat and no doubt was an old offender.  On their discharge, they disappeared in the crowd and can now go and try their light-fingered propensity in some other community.  But a small portion of the money was recovered.  As there are no prisons, this is the only way of punishment, and this speedy justice will not be without its effects upon others.  Having an opportunity of sending this to Sacramento, I am writing hurriedly.<HSEP>A. D.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>14.<LB>Oleepa, May 8, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n14-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>I WAS most highly gratified a few days since by receiving a letter from you, which gave me more news from home than I had received in all before.  Indeed, the mails seem tired of persecuting me any longer, for within the last two months I have received (count with your fingers so that you will make no mistake) three letters from my wife dated severally August 25, October 21, January 12--one from my sister,<ANCHOR ID="n14-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: December 2, one from Colonel Morgan of New York,<ANCHOR ID="n14-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: December 18, and you of February 4--all but the first one and Colonel Morgan's came within the last two days, and I have read and reread them so often that I have committed them to memory to serve until I strike another lead.--Well, this is the merry month of May--hot enough to roast eggs--men.  The hens in this country don't lay--'cause there isn't any.  Eggs are brought by sea from Acapulco at six dollars per dozen.  I wish some Yankee would establish a manufactory here, so as to reduce the price a little.  But speaking of May, it reminds me of where I was a year ago, sailing by point of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:compass on the plains between the two Nemahas,<ANCHOR ID="n14-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and by this time thousands of our fellow citizens have commenced their long and weary route of suffering towards this land of distress, sickness, and death, for in few words, such will be the inevitable fate of many who will cross the plains.  So many reminiscences of my trials present themselves so vividly to my imagination, that I can scarcely write at all, so ardently do I desire to be with them to tell them how to avoid the difficulties and suffering which we encountered, and much may be avoided if they knew how.  In one of my communications to you, I spoke of the pocket map which you presented me on my leaving Ottawa, but from a word dropped in your letter, I conclude you never received it.--It was a copy of Fremont's,<ANCHOR ID="n14-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: most conveniently arranged in sections, so that by turning a leaf two or three days' travel lay before us.  We found it of infinite use.  The distances were accurately laid down, and the notes and remarks were perfectly correct.  Many trains were benefited, and something of the kind would be very useful to emigrants.  Ours was only on this route to sixty miles west of Fort Hall, but now a new and better route is found from Bear Springs which saves about an hundred miles' travel, leaving Fort Hall to the north.  It seems as if a man may live years in a few months in this country, so many are the changes and the scenes which he goes through.  Every transit from the mountains to the Valley, or from the Valley to the mountains, brings its adventures.  If I could detail but a small portion of the experience of travelers to this country, it would form as interesting and exciting a book of the kind as ever was published.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, July 6, 1850.  Oleepa was an Indian village on the Feather River one half mile south of Yateston.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-2">Harriett Delano (b. 1797), after whom he apparently named his daughter Harriet.  In "Old Block at Home" he refers to his reunion with his "only sister," a grandmother and widow, at Aurora, but her married name does not appear.  His parents had eleven children; but only four attained middle age, apparently--Austin, Harriett, Mortimer Frederick, and Alonzo.  <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:, 57-58; Joel A. Delano, <HI REND="italics">Genealogy</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-3">Probably Edwin B. Morgan (1806-1881), of Aurora, one of the original officers of Wells, Fargo and Company, with which Delano was later associated.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-4">The Little Nemaha River and the North Fork of the Nemaha River, in present-day Nebraska. Cf. p. 23.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-5">John Charles Fremont, <HI REND="italics">Report of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains in the Year 1842, and to Oregon and North California in the Years 1843-'44</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Colonel Taylor, of St. Louis, in coming out last season with a part of his company, left their train and started for California.  They lost their horses, and in an attempt to make a cut-off, got lost in the Wind River Mountains in August, where the snow was ten feet deep.  For many days they had no provisions, only what they killed and that was but little, and just as the last ray of hope was departing, and they had concluded that death was inevitable, they regained the road and succeeded in getting through by walking fifteen hundred miles.</p><P>My neighbor, T. E. Gray,<ANCHOR ID="n14-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: came through Central America on foot.  On the Pacific he took a whaleboat and put to sea, was once washed overboard in a storm, but arrived safely in San Francisco in twenty-seven days.  Among the unfortunate sufferers who were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:caught in the November snows of the last emigration was a gentleman who told me that, in a desperate attempt to reach the settlement, he took his knapsack and started to walk in about two hundred miles.  In about three days his provisions were all gone but one day's ration of flour and a small piece of bacon.  He overtooka family where there were three women and three or four little children who had not a mouthful to eat, and the men had gone out to seek aid.  Their cattle had all died and they were left helpless.  With a self-denial and generosity that few can fully appreciate but those who have seen such things, he gave all his provisions to the helpless and starving sufferers, and walked three days in snow knee-deep, without food himself, before he ate anything.  The family were rescued by the Government relief train.<ANCHOR ID="n14-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: But such things are so common that they have ceased to be a subject of conversation.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-6">Of Florida.  He was a passenger on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Galveston</HI>
073.sgm:, which sailed from New Orleans for Panama on February 2, 1849.  Haskins, <HI REND="italics">Argonauts of California</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-7">U.S. military authorities in California sent troops eastward with supplies in the winters of 1849-1850.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>A rather droll meeting happened to me last fall among hundreds of others.  During my last trip to Sacramento City just before the rains set in, I was driving my ox team in company with two other teams over a dry arid plain, without grass or water--night was approaching, and no sign of a camping ground appeared, and tired and jaded, suffering alike with hunger and thirst, we were anxiously looking round for a resting place for the night.  Directly an old man overtook us, driving a smart span of mules in a light wagon, and we inquired where we should find grass and water.  "About four miles from this," he replied courteously.  "I camped there on my way down, and it is the only place you will find.--It will be after dark before you reach it.  I will drive on, kindle a fire, and you will see it when you get to it--it is about half a mile off the road, but you will see my fire."  He drove on and we followed slowly. When we came in sight we found that he had been as good as his word, for there was a bright fire, and on driving up we found our friend cooking his supper.  We soon joined him in this agreeable operation, and soon we were amused at his wit and originality.  Though rough in his appearance and somewhat <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
073.sgm: in his language, we soon saw he was a well-educated man and a gentleman.  After spending the evening quite agreeably in story-telling and discussing various topics, we spread our blankets on the ground and turned in, without once inquiring where each other was from.  While we were breakfasting next morning, the old gentleman happened to drop a remark about Indiana.  "Are you from Indiana?" I interrogated.  "Yes."  "What part of it?"  "O, from down on the Wabash where they have the ague so hard that it shakes the feathers off all the chickens."  A sort of recollection flashed through my mind like lightning.--"Is your name Patrick?"  "Yes"--said he, looking up.--"Dr. Sceptre <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:Patrick, from Terre Haute?"<ANCHOR ID="n14-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: continued I.  "Yes, that is my name--who the d--l are you?"  "You were once a student of my father--he was Dr. Frederick Delano."<ANCHOR ID="n14-9">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: "My God, is it possible?--and you--youmust be A--!" Our knives and our breakfast dropped from our hands instantly, and they were clutched in the warm grasp of "auld lang syne."  I had not seen him for sixteen years--"and now, Patrick, situated as you were at home, with every comfort about you, with your reputation and circumstances, what sent you on this wild chase to California?" He had been a member of the Legislature and a somewhat prominent man at home.  "Why, I'll tell you--my health was very poor, and I thought the exercise, excitement, and change of air might be beneficial, and so it has, but I like to have died on the road."  "How so?"  "Why, I had the cholera, and came within an ace of slipping my wind.  I was taken suddenly and most severely, and there was not a man near me who understood dealing out a dose of medicine, except our d--d fool of a pepper doctor.  I was vomiting, purging, and suffering all the pain of infernal regions, when I told them to give me a large dose of calomel, opium and camphor, and not to count the grains either.  But the pepper doctor urged me to take a dose of No. 6--.  `Go to the d--l with your No. 6; give me the calomel, and quick too, or I am a dead man.'  But the fool kept talking about his No. 6--No. 6 all the while, till finally to satisfy him, and at the same time while I was writhing in agony, I told him to pour it down me.  He immediately turned out a double dose, and I took it.  Then I thought I should die.  The remedy was worse than the disease, and I thought my insides were all on fire, and I roared out for water, `water, water, for God's sake, or I <HI REND="italics">shall die</HI>
073.sgm:.'  But there was not a drop of water to be had and all were much alarmed, but I did not throw the medicine up.  `Well, give me something--I'm burning up--give me brandy, fire, or turpentine, anything.'  The doctor jumped to the brandy jug and poured out half a glass full, and before I knew it I had swallowed nearly all of that, but it was only adding fuel to flame, for the poor frightened devil had made a mistake in the jug and poured out another quadruple dose of No. 6.  Now I thought I was gone sure, but it stuck, and stopped my vomiting, and then he was willing to give me my medicine, and that stuck.  In the course of an hour or so it operated, and the disease was checked, and I got well."  Our time was spent, and we parted, like the "two dogs resolved to meet some other day."<ANCHOR ID="n14-10">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-8">Dr. Sceptre (or Septer) Patrick (1784 or 1785-1859).  Born in Indiana, he died in Sacramento.  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-9">D. 1825. Joel A. Delano, <HI REND="italics">Genealogy</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-10">Burns, <HI REND="italics">The Twa Dogs</HI>
073.sgm:<P>I am located for the present in the fine flourishing town of Oleepa, at the head of steamboat navigation on Feather River.  Our fine and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:populous town consists of a cloth store, over which I am the presiding genius (Genius of the Lamp, <HI REND="italics">vamos</HI>
073.sgm:, for I am here), one cloth hotel about opening, under the direction of Mr. Gray, aforesaid from Florida, and two Indian ranchos composed of about four hundred Indians, most of whom, disdaining Parisian fashions, are dressed in nature's costume.<ANCHOR ID="n14-11">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Were it not for the mosquitoes, this would be a very convenient dress for the climate, where modesty is of no account.  There are about fifty naked wretches sitting on the ground in front of my building, in the sun, laughing, singing, and taking comfort, all playing the same tune and beating time with their hands on their bodies, for it is slap, slap, slap, as the tormenting mosquitoes bore into their naked, copper-colored hides.  It will be in June before the water will be low enough to do anything in the mines, and then I shall shoulder "de shubble and de hoe" and make tracks for the mountains.  Since my sickness of last fall and winter, the climate seems to agree with me, and it may eventually prove best suited for my constitution.  There has been another great fire in San Francisco.  It is estimated that from five to ten million dollars' worth of property has been destroyed.<ANCHOR ID="n14-12">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-11">Maidu Indians.  Kroeber, <HI REND="italics">Handbook of the Indians of California</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-12">This was the second "great" San Francisco fire, on May 4, 1850.  Soule&acute; <HI REND="italics">et al., Annals</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The lower towns are improving rapidly in the arts of civilization.  San Francisco, Sacramento, &amp;c., &amp;c., are graced with theatres, celebrated singers and dancers, model artists, &amp;c.--admittance two dollars, front seats reserved for the ladies. Fudge--let'em come this way and they can see Indian dances, and naked men, women, and children by the quantity for nothing, with a large sprinkle of grizzly bears, black wolves, and coyotes, with deer, elk and antelopes, rats, mice, and ground squirrels thrown into the bargain.  So far from its being a novelty we do not notice them.  I have not seen many of the Ottawa boys lately.  I saw Joseph Reddick<ANCHOR ID="n14-13">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: not long since.  He has a first-rate claim on the Middle Fork of Feather River, and will do well.  Mr. Fredenburg and B.K. Thorn are near Mr. Green, all doing a fair business.  Armstrong<ANCHOR ID="n14-14">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: is at Long's Bar, on the river, with good prospects before him.  Indeed, those who are now well and have secured claims cannot fail of meeting with fair success. Gold is found in large quantities in the Cascade Mountains, towards Oregon, and a strong current is setting that way, but it is a horrid country of sharp, broken and rugged mountains.  McNeil is with me, one of the best men in the world.  Mr. Pope is <HI REND="italics">doing well</HI>
073.sgm: on the Yuba.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:He is a good and honest man, deserving success. Smith and Brown have a bakery at Yuba City.--I have not heard one word from Dr. Hall<ANCHOR ID="n14-15">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: since last fall--he richly deserves the best fortune.--Mr. Rood has a grocery at Eliza, two miles below Marysville--says he is doing well.  Young Loring<ANCHOR ID="n14-16">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: has a claim about five miles above my upper one in a rich district.  Mr. Bacon<ANCHOR ID="n14-17">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and Dan. Stadden are dead, and it is rumored that Captain Reed was drowned a few weeks ago in Feather River.<ANCHOR ID="n14-18">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: This is about the only news I am possessed of with regard to our boys--we have all got places and are ready to go to work as soon as the floods permit.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-13">Of Ottawa, a son of William Reddick.  He was a soldier in the Mexican War and died in California in 1870.  <HI REND="italics">Ottawa</HI>
073.sgm::  <HI REND="italics">Old and New</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-14">Probably one of the seven sons of Joseph Armstrong, of Ottawa: John S., born 1810; George W., 1812; William E., 1814; Joel W., 1816; Jeremiah R., 1818; Perry A., 18238 and Isaiah J., 1829.  <HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-15">Dr. Josiah Hall, of Ottawa.  A physician and blacksmith, and a Patriarch of the Sons of Temperance, he died at Ottawa in 1876.  <HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-16">Thomas Loring, of Ottawa.  He is reported as being on the Feather River in February, 1850.  <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-17">James Bacon, of Ottawa, "died of congestive chills at Weaverville" early in 1850.  <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-18">This was unfounded.  Cf. p. 42.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>15.<LB>Oleepa, May 12th, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n15-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>MY PRESENT communication will be a chapter on the Indians. I hesitated whether I would expose one of Colonel Grant's mountain rambles, together with Captain King's adventure,<ANCHOR ID="n15-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: but I finally concluded to leave persons and adventures until my next.  My opportunity of seeing the dark-skinned aborigines has been somewhat extended within a few months, and this may diversify the thousand and one California communications with which we are boring our Atlantic brethren.  I am at present living in immediate proximity of two large Indian villages, where the night revels of these poor savages, together with the howling of the coyote, are my evening lullaby, while during the day I am waited on or stared at as a great "medicine man" by a gaping crowd of credulous Indians.  God help my practice as a physician.  Beyond putting a plaster (if I have it) on a sore toe, or offering a bottle of hartshorn to a fainting person, my practice does not extend, and the veriest pepper quack in the land might blush to own me as one of the faculty. I found the chief (Oleepa) sitting by his fire one night, holding his head with his hand, evidently suffering with pain.  On examination, I found a slight swelling just back and a little below his ear.  I saw at once it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:was simply a slight inflammation, which would produce suppuration unless it could be reduced.  I had scarcely any medicines with me, but I knew that opodeldoc was good for horseflesh, and I thought it might do for Indians; so I rubbed a little on it, gave him a pill of opium, and sent him to bed. In two days the swelling was gone and the chief well, and my credit as "high as the skies" as a "medicine man;" and I have a full run of practice, which I extend <HI REND="italics">free gratis for nothing</HI>
073.sgm:.  One poor devil came to me with a sore skin.  Having no Peleg White or Jew David<ANCHOR ID="n15-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: by me, I washed it clean with Castile soap, put a thin piece of fat bacon on a rag and bound it on the happy Indian's leg, and told him he would be well in three sleeps.  It would have got well anyhow.  Bacon is good for the inside of a white man, so I though it <HI REND="italics">might</HI>
073.sgm: do outside on an Indian.  But I will brag no more of my medical talents until I invent some patent medicine, and then I will send you any quantity of Indian certificates to prove that a man will never need employ me but once, for I shall kill him the first time.  I have had considerable curiosity in finding out their customs and for this purpose have been a good deal among them.  Their houses resemble coal pits, being a framework within an excavation in the ground and the dirt thrown over it, a hole being left in the top for the smoke to go out, and another about two feet square at the bottom to serve as a door: this is by a passage four or five feet long, and it is close work to get in by crawling on your hands and knees.  Once in, they are quite capacious, but dingy with smoke, and filthy. I have frequently crawled in and sat by their fires in the cool evenings, and I have always been well treated, and at any time when they have been eating, was always invited to a share.  Their bread is made of acorns pounded fine and dried, and they make a cake of a kind of grass by boiling it first, then working it over with their hands into a pulpy substance, flattening it out and drying it over their fires.  Both are very palatable, aside from their dirty mode of preparing it.  Their mode of cooking the beautiful salmon caught here makes them delicious; it is simply by laying heated stones upon them until they are thoroughly cooked.  I like them better than any other mode I ever tried.  Men and women generally wear their hair short, shaved quite close on the top of the head.  I have been amused at their mode of cutting hair; sometimes they burn it off with a coal and sometimes turn it over a flat stick and saw it off with the edge of a clam shell.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-2">Cf. pp. 77-80.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-3">"Jew David, or Hebrew Plaster, is the only reliable remedy for <HI REND="italics">Rheumatism</HI>
073.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">Lame Backs or Sides</HI>
073.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">Spinal Disease</HI>
073.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">White Swelling</HI>
073.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">Hard Tumors</HI>
073.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">Corns</HI>
073.sgm:, &amp;c."  Advertisement in the Boonville (Missouri) <HI REND="italics">Observer</HI>
073.sgm:<P>In intelligence, they are far behind the Indians east of the Rocky Mountains.  Unless they have been employed by the whites so as to obtain clothes, they go naked, the men entirely so, and the women wear only a short apron of grass before them.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:<P>They have some idea of a Superior Being or Spirit greater than themselves, but have few, if any, religious ceremonies.  The moon is an object of veneration, and they occasionally give her a dance offering.  They are fond of dancing and often indulge in it without any other visible object than that of pleasure.  Their music is a monotonous cadence of guttural sounds to which they keep time with their feet.  It is somewhat singular that different <HI REND="italics">rancheri&acute;as</HI>
073.sgm:, though only four and five miles apart, speak different dialects, though there appears to be a common means or general language of communication among the different tribes.</p><P>Each village has its separate chief whose government is of the most liberal, patriarchal kind.  Different tribes have different customs: in their burials, some burn their dead, some bury them extended at full length, covering them with skins or sticks, then throwing in dirt; while others bend the body and legs together in a sitting posture, winding them up tightly with cords, and then place them into holes in the ground, putting in water, provisions, and little mementos of affection to serve them on their way to the land of spirits.</p><P>An affecting anecdote was related me by an eyewitness of a burial among one of the mountain tribes.  Mr. Johnson, late proprietor of the ranch which bears his name on Bear River,<ANCHOR ID="n15-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: brought up a boy and girl from childhood.  They were educated as well as the circumstances of the country would allow, and while the girl was instructed in the domestic arts, the boy was learned in the science of agriculture.  Both were trusty, and Mr. Johnson was much attached to them.  In the course of time they arrived to a marriageable age, and the boy wanted a wife.  Mr. Johnson proposed that he should take the girl, which being perfectly agreeable to their inclination, they were married.  In a year or two the boy was taken sick and died.  Mr. J. desired to have a somewhat expensive funeral to testify his regard for his adopted children, but the poor girl begged him to let her bury her beloved husband beside the bones of her father in the hills.  Of course he at once consented, and he with all his domestics and several friends escorted the body to the mountains, where they were met by the rude mountaineers with every demonstration of sorrow, who placed the body on a pile and set fire to it.  They then began to dance around it with songs of lamentation, each casting into the flames some precious offering, while the widow stripped herself completely of her civilized garments, threw them into the fire, and Mr. Johnson's domestics each pulled off their new hats, which he had just paid eighteen dollars apiece for, and cast them on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:the burning pile of the deceased fellow and friend.  When all was consumed, the Indians gathered up the ashes in their hands and scattered them to the winds.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-4">William Johnson, a native of Boston and mate of the ship <HI REND="italics">Alciope</HI>
073.sgm:, came to California in 1841.  Four years later he purchased the Gutierrez rancho on the Bear River.  About 1852 "he either died or went to the Sandwich Islands."  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:was tied around my shoulders.  I laughed and told him the baby was too small; I could put it in my pockets; but when he could run about I would trade.  They laughed in turn and told me he would then be worth more.</p><P>They beg without scruple or shame.  A few days since I was sitting among a crowd, when one of them asked me for my handkerchief.  He wanted it to wear on his head.</p><P>"O, no!"  I told him.  "I cannot spare it--I want it to wipe my nose with."  "Ugh! you have a hat (pointing to mine) and I have none.  You can blow your nose as I do," and suiting the action to the word, turned a triumphant look upon me, as much as to say, "I have learned you something, old fellow," and the whole crowd laughed merrily at my ignorance.  What a barbarian I am.  Well, my education must be my excuse.  There are many other incidents to illustrate Indian character but it would make too long a letter, and I will close by a single anecdote illustrating their credulity, if my medical practice is not sufficient.  Extract from my Journal:</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"January 30.</HEAD>
073.sgm:<P>--The second day after McNeil and I reached ou cabin,<ANCHOR ID="n15-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: our Indian friends returned.  It was a cold, rainy, gusty day, and they came naked into our cabin, the rain dripping from their hair, while they drew near the fire shivering with cold.  We had no particular objection to their visit, only on account of their propensity for stealing, which with them is no crime, and as they might come when we were absent or busily at work on our race, and take what they chose from the cabin, we thought it was best to get rid of them quietly, and I tried their credulity for the occasion.  I told them that I was a conjurer, that I came from the rising sun and had control over the elements.  Occasionally a gust of wind and rain came that was terrific, and the smoke drove down the chimney enough to suffocate us.  I took advantage of the approach of these guests to beckon up the chimney, which was often followed by a ready response from the god of the storm, and a severe gust followed.  Then I examined their heads phrenologically (I understand that science about as well as medicine).  This excited them, and they frequently enquired if it was <HI REND="italics">wano</HI>
073.sgm: (good)?  "Yes, " I replied, "it was good," though they were evidently uneasy.  At length after a few manipulations of animal magnetism, and occasional gyrations towards the chimney as each gust approached, I sat down with a grave face and began to sketch their likenesses on a smooth board.  They watched me closely till they began to see something of a resemblance to themselves, now and then looking at each other in apparent alarm, when a strong gust coming which instantly filled the room with smoke, Mac suddenly jumped up and rushed to the door, and opening it, looked out to see if any goblins answered my summons.  No sooner was the door opened, than our Indian friends started to their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:feet and bolted outright, preferring to "bide the pelting of the pitiless storm"<ANCHOR ID="n15-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: rather than stay longer in the den of a monster who called the storm from the clouds and took their spirits from themselves and made them fast to the board.  We have not seen them since.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-5">At Ottawa Bar.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-6">Shakespeare, <HI REND="italics">King Lear</HI>
073.sgm:<P>I had the good fortune to see a copy of the California edition of the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, which Dr. Angle, of the Angle and Company's Express, gave me.<ANCHOR ID="n15-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I noticed a copy from a Springfield, Illinois, paper of a horrid circumstance said to have occurred in the train of Captain Green, of Fox River, Illinois, of his son<ANCHOR ID="n15-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: who killed a squaw and who was afterwards given up and flayed alive by the Indians in presence of his father and the company.  It is a sheer fabrication from beginning to end.  I came nearly all the way in that train and have seen them since my arrival here.  In the first place, young Green neither killed a squaw nor had any difficulty with the Indians.  In the next place, if he had, that company, <HI REND="italics">nor no other which crossed the plains last season</HI>
073.sgm:, would have given a man up to the tender mercies of the Indians; they would all have fought till they died.  And in the last place, any man who knows old Mr. Green knows that he has grit enough to stand as long as a man can stand against any body of Indians alive.  He is an old Indian-fighter, and you may be assured no son or friends of his would be skinned before his eyes while he could pull a trigger or wield a knife.  They are now piling up the golden rocks in the mountains.  Water still too high to work in the mines and probably will be till June.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-7">Dr. M. B. Angle (c. 1820-1865), of Illinois.  He came overland with Delano and lent him two hundred dollars.  He was for several years president of the Pacific Medical College (the first medical school in California), founded in San Francisco by the College of the Pacific about 1858.  He died at Redding.  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:, 27, 52, 109; San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:, October 1, 1865; Morse, <HI REND="italics">First History of Sacrament</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-8">Ge&acute;orge Green. Cf. p. 112.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Truly yours,</p><P>A.</p><illus entity="a073-0014" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
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073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>16.<LB>Yateston, June 14, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n16-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DID YOU ever hear of Jim Beckwith?<ANCHOR ID="n16-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: There is a class of men in California whose adventures, if written out, would equal, if not surpass the works of fiction.  For many years living in the mountains, enduring all the privations and suffering incident to such a life, from choice, forsaking the comforts of a civilized land to gain a scanty and precarious living among savages--these men have been awakened to a desire of procuring wealth by the universal attraction of California, and have emerged from their bleak and desolate hills among the Rocky Mountains, to form an atom of the thousands crowding here for gold; and of this bold, determined and fearless class is Jim Beckwith.  He is a free mulatto from Missouri, originally.  By a combination of circumstances he found himself a mountaineer and the chief of the Crow Nation, among the Black Hills, high up in the vicinity of the North Platte.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, June 26, 1850.  Yateston was named for Captain John Yates, an Englishman by birth who came to California from Mazatlan in 1842 and was employed by Sutter as master of his launch.  Yates was "second to have been owner of land in the Chico region," 1846-1847.  In 1851 he went to the Sandwich Islands, where he was living in 1872.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:, V, 782; <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-2">James P. Beckwourth (1798-c. 1867), "hunter, squaw-man, raconteur."  Born in Virginia of a mulatto mother and a white father, he went with William H. Ashley and Andrew Henry on their famous exploring expedition of 1823 and with Ashley to the Rocky Mountains in the winter of 1824-1825.  He married a succession of Indian maidens.  In 1844 he settled in California, where he discovered the low-altitude pass over the Sierra which bears his name.  <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:<P>According to the custom of Indians who are friendly with each other, Jim had a wife among the Blackfeet as well as among the Crows.  Being out once upon some wild excursion, he met a party of Blackfeet going to war with some neighboring tribe; and at their solicitation, he joined them.  They were victorious and returned with a number of scalps; among them was that of a mountaineer whom some of the Indians had killed.  Jim took this opportunity to go and see his wife among the Blackfeet, and a great festival was held in their large town to celebrate their victory.  In the lodge which Jim's wife occupied were three or four French traders, with their goods, whose curiosity led them to the door of the lodge to witness the antics of the Indians, while Jim sat moodily by a small fire inside, leaning his head in his hands and holding no communion with the noisy and reckless throng without.  Raising his eyes he observed the curiosity of the Frenchmen who were gazing at the crowd, and he addressed them, "Why do you stand looking upon that scene?"</p><P>"Because we want to see them dance," they replied.</p><P>"Do you not know that the scalp of a white man is among them and can you look coolly on and see them rejoice over his death?  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:at some convenient opportunity, and after remaining in the lodge a few days he determined to try to reach his own tribe.  The old man selected a guard who were pledged to protect him to a certain point on the way and then give him the start of them about six miles before they pursued him, if they were determined to kill him.  They obeyed the instructions, and Jim started off.  As soon as they reached the point of his final departure, they stopped, and as soon as he was out of sight, he ran with all his might, for he knew too well what his fate would be if they overtook him.  By almost superhuman exertions, he succeeded in outrunning them and in about three days reached the Crows in safety.</p><P>He is now in California, and I am told is waiting for the snows to melt on the mountains, when he starts as a bearer of dispatches to some of the distant inland posts.  His has been a life of impetuous daring, and this is only one of the many stories which are related of him.</p><P>The waters are slowly subsiding, and people are leaving the Valley in crowds for the mines.  I go up to work on my claim next week.</p><P>A. D.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>17.<LB>Dawlytown, June 25, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n17-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>THE RAINY season had commenced, and if <HI REND="italics">non gustibus disputandum</HI>
073.sgm: was ever exemplified, it was in the month of November, 1849, in California.  It was during one of these not gentle floods that two friends of mine were climbing over the steep mountains through which the South Fork of Feather River forces its way in its rapid course to the parent stream, and although not like Don Quixote, seeking adventures, adventures came to them which might have honored the Flower of Chivalry himself.  They had started on a prospecting tour for gold, and in a region then imperfectly known where, even in good weather, the passage of the hills and ravines was laborious, but now so slippery and the stream so swollen by the floods, it was almost impossible to get along.  Supplies, too, on the route were entirely out of the question, and in addition to a pan, pick and shovel, they were compelled to bear upon their shoulders a week's rations, cooking utensils, firearms and ammunition for protection against the savages, and their blankets, which soon being saturated with water, doubled their weight.  They had got only about a couple of miles from Bidwell Bar, the last station on the river, when the rain increased so much that they were fain to encamp in a deep gorge, hoping that the morning sun would beam more auspiciously upon them--.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
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073.sgm:<P>"By heaven, Captain Freeland, this is too bad; we can't get along at this rate; let us lay over until tomorrow."  "I believe you are right, Colonel Grant," replied Freeland, "this is worse than the hills of Yucatan, for although they were steep and slippery enough, it did not rain like this when we followed the Indians among them."  "Well, old soldier," responded Grant, "where shall we encamp?  The chance for that, even, is somewhat precarious."  "There is a good spot on the hillside under that tree," said Freeland.  "What! across that mad stream?  How can we cross?"  "O, we can do it," said Freeland, and to show that it could be done, he attempted to jump from the root of a tree upon a rock near the opposite bank, and he <HI REND="italics">did land</HI>
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073.sgm:several small children besides the parents, in the wilderness, many hundred miles from the settlements, and their condition was indeed deplorable.  Their case excited the compassion of some of the trains, and a company of twenty-five men, under the command of Captain King, volunteered to go in pursuit and recover the cattle, if possible.  After proceeding several miles over the mountains, the company by some means got divided in passing up a gorge, and Captain King found himself with three others, named Elliott,<ANCHOR ID="n17-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Moore<ANCHOR ID="n17-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:to the Indian's head, blew out his brains and ended this terrible encounter by the death of his foe, and the white men stood victorious upon this desperate battlefield.  Moore eventually recovered, but the cattle were lost entirely, and the unfortunate emigrant was assisted to reach the Valley of the Sacramento by the other trains.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-2">Perhaps the Captain Elliott, from Missouri, mentioned as having been in a fight with Indians.  <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-3">Possible William Moore, from Mishawaka, Indiana.  Cf. p. 83.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>A. D.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>18.<LB>Stringtown, July 22, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n18-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>EDITORS <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: --During the last days of June I had my affairs in the Valley arranged and came here to superintend the working of this claim.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<P>After nearly completing our dam, the water, which is still high, percolated through the race and the gravel and the unfinished dam so much that our claim was not dry enough to work.  We thought, however, that by throwing out a wing at the head of our claim we could drain a bar sufficiently dry to sink a hole to the bedrock.  Accordingly we commenced operations by falling a tall pine that stood on the brink convenient for the purpose of making an abutment.  Our company was composed of a Frenchman, the first discoverer of gold in Australia,<ANCHOR ID="n18-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: an Englishman from Sydney, New Holland, one New Yorker, three stout Yankees from Maine, and three men from Maryland.  The most of us were in the river clearing the bed from brush and dirt.  When the tree was ready to fall, the word was given, and all got out in time but myself.  I happened to be in the middle of the stream and in the deepest part, and owing to the strong current was unable to get out.  I made a few steps upward, watching the tree, when I became satisfied it was coming on to me.  I stepped back, when it swayed around, and it was now clear that I was directly in its course.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-2">This seems a remarkable anachronism, since gold was not discovered in Australia until February, 1851.  "Australia," <HI REND="italics">Encyclopaedia Britannica</HI>
073.sgm:<P>My wife and helpless children came into my mind; still I felt perfectly collected, with the thought that if I was killed my companions could tell what had become of me, which was more than many a poor fellow who has perished in the weary search for gold could have done for him, and strange as it may seem a ray of comfort shot through my heart.  But there is no man who is threatened with such a death who will not instinctively make an exertion to save his life, however worthless it may be to him.  Of course these thoughts passed through my mind in much less time than it takes to tell it.  I made one desperate effort more to avoid the falling tree, and could only take two steps against the strong current, and the stones <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:being covered with slime and very slippery, I fell at full length under water as the tree came crashing thundering down, and I found myself with only a slight bruise amid the branches and spreading limbs, within two or three feet of the trunk, verifying the old proverb that "he who is born to be hung will never be drowned."  Raising myself like a turtle from the water, I saw the men standing aghast on the bank, sure that I was killed.  "Well, boys," I shouted, shaking off the water, "she lays exactly right--could not have done better if we had tried."</p><P>"My God!  are you hurt?" was the eager inquiry.  "No--no, not in the least.  Let us trim it, cut it off, and crack in our dam in less than no time."  I don't know why it was, but at that moment my escape was not in my mind, but the men were so much agitated that they could scarcely speak.</p><P>"By Gar!" gasped the honest Frenchman.--"Ough!  Monsieur--" and placing his hand on his heart, "you just feel him here--thump, thump, thump.  I see the tree--he fell.  I see you no get out--I see him kill you sure.  I not could speak--my tongue stood still in my mouth wide open," and all gave me hearty congratulations.--One of our strongest men from Maine, a powerful man named Dunning,<ANCHOR ID="n18-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: took the axe to trim the limbs from the tree, and getting upon the trunk stepped off again.  "I can't do it," he said; "my knees are so weak that I cannot stand--I never was so frightened in my life," and it was not until they became calm that I began fully to appreciate my almost miraculous escape, and then I confess that for a little while my knees were weak too.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-3"> Zophar Dunning (1825-1899).  A native of Charleston, Maine, he arrived in California in 1850 by ship via Australia.  After his mining days he resided in Butte and Nevada counties, San Francisco, and Marysville, where he died.  Iola Dunning, Ms. in Pioneer File, California State Library.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Our wing dam being finished, we endeavored to sink a hole, but the water came in so fast that we were compelled to abandon it for a few days, till the water subsided still more and until we could contrive to drain off more water.  Taking advantage of a couple of days of leisure, I went over to the Middle Fork, in company with Dunning and Periam,<ANCHOR ID="n18-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and Norton from Mishawaka.<ANCHOR ID="n18-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: --The distance was only ten miles by a good mule path to the top of the ridge.  From there we had a splendid view.  The mountains are broken and piled up in a manner which defies description.--Bare ledges of rocks rear their dark heads in confused and broken masses, while at one point we observed a waterfall at the distance of five or six miles which appeared like a thread hanging about midway in a gorge where the mountains were three thousand feet high.  The perpendicular fall is said to be from eight hundred to a thousand feet.  Our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:view was bounded on the east by a long high granite mountain, perfectly bald without a shrub of vegetation, which is said to extend many miles parallel with the Valley.--Nothing could be more picturesque or romantic.  We thought of attempting to reach the falls and commenced a descent to the river, where we held several claims.  It was quite perpendicular, but so steep that if we had lost a foothold we should have slid and tumbled more than a thousand feet over the decayed granite, but by taking an angling course we reached the bottom in safety.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-4">From Chicago. Cf. p. 85.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-5">William Norton, "now deceased."  David R. Leeper, <HI REND="italics">Argonauts of 'Forty-Nine</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Refreshing ourselves from our knapsacks, we attempted to reach the fall by clambering over the rocks along the run.  An hour's hard labor only brought us half a mile, and we were finally compelled to give it up this time.</p><P>And then came the task of climbing the hill.  It took us fully two hours and a half, and by nightfall we had reached a little rill, when, exhausted, we sank upon the ground and slept soundly till morning.  We reached home completely used up, a little before noon of the second day.</p><P>It is said that misery makes strange bedfellows--so does California.  I had one the other night.  Now don't blush--but it is a fact--I was fairly caught.  I slept in the open air on the ground.  Towards morning I was awakened by something pricking my side.  Supposing it to be an ant or bug of some kind, half-asleep, I brushed it hastily away and turned over and went to sleep again.  A little after daylight, I awoke, and throwing off the clothes, there lay snugly nestled by my side a large scorpion.  Whether it was him that stung me or something else, I cannot tell, but I felt no inconvenience from it, and they are very poisonous.  I soon made beef of him and have thoroughly shook and examined by blankets ever since on retiring to bed.  Speaking of being poisoned reminds me that I have seen many men poisoned badly by a species of oak which grows in the mountains.<ANCHOR ID="n18-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Its effects are much worse than the poison ivy at home.  I have seen men almost blind, covered with sores from head to foot, and completely laid up by simply rubbing against it; yet I have handled it with impunity.  It produces no effect on me whatever.--It is a dwarf oak shrub with small leaves, though it sometimes reaches as high as a man's hands.--It is very plenty in the mountains, and those that it affects have to be very watchful.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-6">Poison oak.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>The emigration begins to arrive, and so far as I hear are disappointed and sick of California.--We do not pity them, for they have been advised better.  Among my acquaintances are W. B. Hollister and William Moore and family from Mishawaka.  The early emigrants will find but few difficulties; the last must suffer on the route.</p><P>I have seen nor heard anything of any of the Ottawa Company  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:since I last wrote.  In my next I shall probably be able to say something of the good and ill success of the mines.  At present <HI REND="italics">au revoir</HI>
073.sgm:.</p><P>A. DELANO.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>19.<LB>Stringtown, Feather River, July 29, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n19-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>ARE YOU fond of romantic views?  Is there a touch of the sublime in your nature?  Can you enjoy a rural scene?  Sit down then, on that old keg--there, pull up the hoops a little, or the staves will fly, and you'll <HI REND="italics">squat</HI>
073.sgm:.  Periam, pass that pipe to the <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
073.sgm:; drive off the lizards; the gentleman ain't used to 'em yet; they are harmless as young toads and just as good to catch flies.  Now cast your eyes around my cabin; that deep old-fashioned fireplace I helped to build myself; I found it rather harder work than lolling over the counter, trying to sell a yard or two of lace edging, with an abundance of small talk, to a pretty young lady.  By the way, I would give an ounce just to look at a--.  How I am digressing.  That bake kettle I paid ten dollars for and lugged it over hill and dale for miles, thinking more of the good bread I could now have, rather than the fatigue.  I used to bake in that old frying pan that hangs on a nail over the fireplace, but that we use now only for frying meat and fritters in.  The bake kettle is an industrious and worthy article, and good-natured withal, for it bakes all the bread for four large messes or companies.  That crowbar, leaning so jauntily against the end of a log, is my poker, as we don't need it in the river digging just now; and on those shelves, made of staves split out of pine logs, you see a pile of sundries, tin pails, coffee pot, tin pans and plates, knives and broken forks, empty bottles, pickle jars, cans containing prepared meats, potatoes, &amp;c., from New York (we live high now), a hairbrush, comb, grease dish, &amp;c.  There hangs our yeast pail; always renew it with flour when you bake, and you'll have good bread--the flour barrel stands in the corner quite handy.  Now look at the other side: that pine box standing on two long pegs in the fourth log contains my library.  Shakespeare and the Vicar of Wakefield are looking down on us good-humoredly, and well they may; for when we were throwing away provisions, clothes, and almost everything else last year on the plains to lighten our loads so that <HI REND="italics">we could</HI>
073.sgm: get through, I saved these two worthies from destruction, and they have repaid me over and over during the weary rains of winter and--no matter.  There they are, with a work on natural philosophy which my father gave me when I was a boy, together with one on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:geology, and just below you see a file of the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, which I receive through the kindness of your agent, and this constitutes my reading privileges.  Without the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, I should be lost in utter ignorance of what transpired in <HI REND="italics">America</HI>
073.sgm:, for it is about the only paper which comes to hand.  Those boots hanging up there belong to one of the boys and hang against the wall as a decoration, we having no pictures.  In the window you see a vial containing calomel and one of castor oil.  I'm about half sick today, and for fear I shall not make it quite out, I am about to take a dose before I close this letter, for I am threatened with fever, even in this very <HI REND="italics">healthy</HI>
073.sgm: climate ( <HI REND="italics">vide</HI>
073.sgm: Bryant and others).  In the rear are our bunks, made with an axe and an inch auger--the mattresses are of rough plank, split out of pine trees.  Our floor was built when the country was made, and we have not ventured to disturb this part of creation, so that we tread on our mother earth, in or out of the cabin.  Among various decorations, equal to the boots on the wall, there hangs an old violin that has a reminiscence attached to it which is of more importance than even its own soft tones.  It belonged to an elderly man named Turner, from Henry County, Illinois.<ANCHOR ID="n19-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: He had made a bargain with a man to bring him to California, but on reaching Fort Laramie, the man sold his wagon and packed through, leaving Turner to shift for himself.  Without a friend to aid him, with no money or provisions, without the means of going backward or forward, poor Turner was like a shipwrecked mariner upon a desolate coast, for while many ships were sailing by, it seemed impossible to make them notice his signals of distress.  Happily for him, Messrs. Billinghurst, Brown and Periam, of Chicago, came along, and pitying his forlorn condition, they took him aboard their wagon, although their own supplies were none too abundant.  On the road across the plains, Turner was taken with scurvy, and instead of being a help to them on their arrival in the mines, he was only a continued tax upon their generosity and good feeling when even the necessaries of life were procured with difficulty, and notwithstanding disease had made him irritable, they did not relax their assiduity for his comfort, and it was "without the hope of fee or reward."  He moved with them from Long's Bar to this place in November, and if, at times, he was able to draw the bow to "auld lang syne" and "sweet, sweet home" with plaintive melody, with the tears trickling down his careworn cheek, it was destined that "wife nor children more should he behold, nor friends nor sacred home."  He gradually grew worse, and died the last of January.  He lies upon the hillside above our cabin, and his violin and a half-written letter is all the mementos left of poor Turner.  May God help his widowed wife and fatherless children.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-2">Perhaps S. K. Turner, listed as from Illinois and at St. Joseph.  St. Louis <HI REND="italics">Missouri Republican</HI>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:admitted as a State into the Union, we are going as quietly on as if that even had taken place.<ANCHOR ID="n19-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-3">Admission Day was September 9, 1850, but the news did not reach San Francisco until October 18 following.  <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches, x.</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Elections have been held, State, county and town officers elected.  Courts are duly organized, and proceeding to try cases and writs begin with "State of California," &amp;c. &amp;c.; and while you are quarreling among yourselves at home about admitting us free and untrammeled into the Union, we are at work minding our own business and, apparently, unconcerned about what course you take with regard to us.  If we are not recognized as a State what becomes of all the decisions in our courts of justice, of the acts of the sheriffs, of collectors of revenue, &amp;c &amp;c.? all, all, illegal--all of no account?  Fudge!  the very people who voted for a State constitution and legislature will sustain their acts, unless an armed force prevents them, and they will have law and order and justice, in spite of your brawling politicians and barroom debaters.  We have some glorious spirits in California.  Amid all the dissipation, the gambling and drinking of the Valley towns, we have a class in the mountains--men of intellect, of scientific acquirements, that would honor any community, who are drawn together by a bond of union which proceeds from hardships endured together, a sympathetic disposition, perhaps enhanced by suffering and privations; and these men are superior to the attraction of vice in the towns.  Our Sundays and hours of leisure are spent together, and it is then we sometimes forget our toil and trials.  If home and its endearments enter into the conversation, it is closed by the wish, and O!  expressed in the most heartfelt manner, that if we are successful and once get home, we will meet while on earth at least once a year.</p><P>The Indian tribes in the mountains are still quarreling among themselves.  Near the Yuba, and between that river and the South Fork of Feather River, are the Pikeys, a thievish and treacherous race.  On the east side of the South Fork, and between it and the Middle Fork of the Feather, are the Olos,<ANCHOR ID="n19-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: a tribe entirely friendly with the whites.  A battle between the two tribes took place a few days ago, about three miles from this place, in which two of the Olos were wounded and three of the Pikeys killed.  The object of the battle appeared to be to steal squaws, and during the fray the squaws of the Olos were protected by a strong guard.  While they were engaged a miner happened to come along and called out to the Pikeys to desist and go home.  One of the warriors replied to him by an insulting and indecent gesture, when the miner coolly raised his rifle and applied a bullet plaster to the exposed part of the reckless savage, and dropped him in his tracks.  The Pikeys then desisted, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:but gave notice to the Olos that they would come again today and try it over.  Several whites turned out from our settlement to see the fun, but the Pikeys did not appear, though the Olos are summoning their friends to be ready for a grand affair.  They were highly delighted with the medical practice of the old miner, and are describing the scene with much gusto to the whites at work on the various bars.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-4">Pikeyand Olo are evidently names of villages or village chiefs, or both, of the Maidu.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Truly yours,</p><P>A.D.</p><illus entity="a073-0015" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>20.<LB>Independence, September 1, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n20-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>I AM one hundred and fifty miles in the mountains, amid the most sublime scenery I ever saw, where the snow still lingers on the hills and where the ice freezes in our buckets every night.  In this pure and bracing atmosphere there is no sickness, and two months from this time the living throng who forced their way into these wilds will be compelled to return to the Valley to escape the deep snows which will then encumber this desolate portion of California.  My transitfrom the Valley was a series of adventures which I have partially and briefly detailed to the N. O.  <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n20-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: one of whose correspondents I am (by request --I write none others), and it was one of the most interesting excursions I ever made.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-2">Apparently not published.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>I will not detail it to you, as there is subject matter enough left for a full communication without it.  The evening previous to my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:leaving Marysville I had the felicity of receiving your welcome letter and one from my wife, being the only ones I have received from Ottawa since the date of the 25th March.  I also received a copy of the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, being the fourth number which has reached me in California.</p><P>Hereafter direct all communication to Marysville, Yuba County.  I wish I had more of as attentive correspondents as yourself, for one of our greatest pleasures is receiving letters from home--as a proof of this--"Hello, Handy" (a capital fellow from Albion, Michigan, and whose tent joins mine)--"had you rather get a letter from home and go without your dinner, with a mountain appetite, or get your dinner and go without the letter?"--"I had rather have the letter anytime--why, there's no comparison."  That's my case exactly, so send on your letters.  I am in the region of the fabulous Gold Lake,<ANCHOR ID="n20-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: but even here there are, as elsewhere, good and poor diggings, and many a poor fellow is delving away without being able scarcely to earn the salt for his porridge, while a few, a very few, are doing well or passably so, and yet this is the richest portion of golden California which I have seen.--You know my predictions with regard to the sufferings of the coming overland emigrants.  They are pouring in upon us and in such a condition as to excite pity from hearts of stone.  Last year the great fault of the emigrants was in loading.  The present year the emigrants seem to have fallen into the other extreme. They had not provisions enough, and then many started with horses for the sake of greater speed.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-3">The rumor of a lake with golden pebbles appears to have started in 1849; in the summer of 1850 it gathered momentum, aided by interested traders.  By the end of the year swarms of unattached miners were combing the Sierra in search of the lake.  The name Gold became attached to a body of water in Plumas County, but it had ordinary pebbles.  Gudde, <HI REND="italics">California Place Names</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Last year the grass was unusually good, better than it had been for many years.  But now, either from drought or heavy snows, the grass was dried up, or the melting snows filled the valleys with water and overflowed the grassy bottoms.  The valley of the Humboldt, where we traveled many days along the borders of the stream, this year was a vast lake and the emigrants were obliged to take the hills, frequently making long and laborious detours to avoid or get around side valleys where scarcely any forage could be obtained.  I recollect one place where they were compelled to go thirty miles over difficult mountains out of their course to make about six.  One man paid an Indian fifteen dollars to swim to a little island on the Humboldt and bring over grass enough to feed his mule.  Under these circumstances teams gave out, horses and mules broke down, provisions were exhausted, and hundreds of miles from the settlements and far from aid, men, women and children were left entirely destitute, without a mouthful to eat and without the means of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:amount raised by them, it would present a fearful array of figures against California.  I believe there have been more fortunes made here by trading and speculation than by mining.  The hundred-thousand-dollar men are those who have got rich by speculations, trade or gambling.</p><P>Nearly all the claims on the South Fork of Feather River have failed as high as the can&tilde;on.<ANCHOR ID="n20-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-4">Apprently about a mile and a half above Enterprise. Cf. p. 38.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Four or five have proved good.  A company a mile below Stringtown who had made three or four thousand dollars last winter on the Middle Fork took up a claim a little above on the South Fork, built a dam and race at an expense of two thousand dollars and did not get a dollar.  Another company built a dam and race at an expense of over fourteen thousand dollars and did not get three hundred.<ANCHOR ID="n20-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: A dozen companies in the vicinity erected dams at from three to ten thousand dollars, and after enduring the labor of prospecting in the winter rains, building cabins, making roads over mountains and suffering incredible hardships with the fortitude which belongs to the American race, have relinquished their claims without getting a dollar, perfectly bankrupt and in debt for the very bread they ate while at work with high anticipations of a fair remuneration.  And the traders too have suffered by extending credits to those men who would pay them if they could--but cannot.  I know the most of these men personally, and a more industrious and honorable class of men do not exist.  In the grand rush to Gold Lake two months ago, thousands of men were in the mountains making the search, and what was the consequence?  Why, some good deposits were found and a few made rich or comfortably off, but the great mass made nothing.  So it is here.  And who is to blame for holding such high attributes to California, for showing but one side of the picture, which induces men, women and children to leave home, friends and comforts to launch forth into a sea of uncertainty, of misery, death, and only of doubtful success, but those through whom they glean their information, the conductors of the presses?  The failure of dams is not confined to Feather River alone, but so far as I can learn, it is about the same on all the streams which have been extensively dammed to get at the bed of the stream.  Perhaps my statements may not be credited by those who rely upon the arrivals of gold quoted in the papers and by the more ardent at home.  All I have to say then is, "Come and try it yourselves--the gold is in the mountains-- <HI REND="italics">get it</HI>
073.sgm:."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-5">This may refer to Delano's experience near Stringtown.  Cf. p. 86.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>In a letter to Hon. J. D.  Caton which I see you have published,<ANCHOR ID="n20-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I spoke of the condition of things with regard to land titles and squatters' rights.  The matter has been festering until it has reached <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:a head and has broken out.  Congress has delayed to admit California as a State, quarreling over an abstract question with which we have nothing to do<ANCHOR ID="n20-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and thus indirectly countenancing the vicious and evil-disposed in their course against law and order.  You will see by the papers the sanguinary conflict of the squatters on town lots in Sacramento City with the constituted authorities.<ANCHOR ID="n20-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: This is one of the results of the delay in allowing us to settle our own matters and is only a prelude to other excesses.  The authorities are determined to maintain the laws of a State whether admitted or not, and I for one think it highly important for the good of society that they should do so.  But the squatters on town lots should not be included with squatters on vacant lands or on the vast claims made under Mexican grants.  For instance, if I first lay claim to 160 acres of land and comply with the requisitions of the law, the land properly becomes mine.  If I lay out a town on this 160 acres, which is all I can hold by law, my right extends over the whole plat.  If another person occupies one of my town lots he trespasses on my equitable rights, and it is in some such way that the difficulty originated at Sacramento City, the squatters refusing to yield their claims to the original proprietors, although there is another dispute with the first occupants on account of its being held as a Mexican grant.--It is certain that the plat was laid out before a State government was organized.  The Sacramento squatters are a formidable body of men determined to have a home, but I think they will finally be compelled to yield.<ANCHOR ID="n20-9">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: But there is another question in embryo which will not be so easily settled, and that is squatting on government land--rather upon Mexican grants, for there is not three hundred square miles of desirable land such as can be cultivated in California but what is claimed by a few individuals under Mexican grants.  The squatters on this land have the sympathies of the mass of the population, for they think it unreasonable that the few should control the many and deprive them of an abiding place in a new country like this, and under the circumstances which brought them here and compelled them to stay.  Here then is another serious affair in embryo and a matter which will be yielded only at the point of the bayonet.  Unless Congress settles the matter in some equitable way soon, difficulties of a most serious nature will ensue.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-6">P. 46.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-7">The issue of whether it should be a slave or free State.  Robert G. Cleland, <HI REND="italics">History of California: The American Period</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-8">The Squatter Riots of August 14 and 15.  Cf. Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-9">They were.  royce, <HI REND="italics">op. cit.</HI>
073.sgm:<P>I think I have written you respecting the miners' law on claims.  This is a matter which takes care of itself and is as faithfully obeyed as any law of Congress, and it is hardly written, much less printed.  I appealed a few days ago to the President of the Association for a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:copy of the law for the purpose of sending it home for publication.  After a diligent search, it was ascertained that but a single copy existed, and that was ten miles distant.  But it is well understood, and when you hear of one miner <HI REND="italics">suing</HI>
073.sgm: another on a disputed claim, it is not before a judicial tribunal but before the self-constituted miners' court.</p><P>But I talk so much of California that I doubt not you, as well as your readers, are wearied--and surely it is no pleasure for me to describe the actual condition of things as I see them.  When you get tired of paying the postage on my lucubrations, say so, and I will trouble you no more.</p><P>Perhaps I repeat things over and over like old story-tellers; I keep no copies of my letters and cannot tell what I have written before.  I should be glad to get the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, but the only paper I get from the States with any degree of regularity is the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, which comes through my friend Mr. Grant.</p><P>It is now sickly in the Valley, chill, fevers, ague and flux prevailing; but in the mountains as high as this nobody is sick.</p><P>Send all communications through New York.</p><P>Truly yours,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>21.<LB>Independence, October 20, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n21-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>IT IS with a kind of desperation that I seize the pen this morning as an antidote to ennui.  The miners have been mostly frightened away by a succession of stormy weather, rain in the valleys and snow on the mountains; and I am also preparing to evacuate these diggings in two or three days.  I shall remove to the mouth of the creek<ANCHOR ID="n21-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: four miles below, where about two hundred and fifty men are preparing winter quarters where, by the appearance of the trees, the snow falls forty or fifty feet deep.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-2">Nelson Creek.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>The miners who are left here are all out at work, and I went out and rocked the cradle an hour or so for pastime, and got only twenty-five cents; so I gave it up, and not to let the time hang heavily on my hands, I take up my pen to make you pay a postage to Uncle Samuel, who never refuses such contributions, although his boys may grumble sometimes at having to make them.  I shall return to the Valley as soon as I dispose of my traps, and then I have several operations in view.  I generally succeed better at hard work than in mining, and I have discovered, after an outlay of two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:thousand dollars, that my steamboat force and horsepower is not equal to the labor of digging and sweltering in the sun.  I have talked so much of scenery that people must be tired of it; but Heaven knows that if they had a spice of my disposition, they would never weary in looking at what there is around us here.  Eight miles from here is an old volcano.<ANCHOR ID="n21-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I had a fair view of it yesterday, and before I go to the Valley I shall visit it.  At its base is the richest deposit yet found in this vicinity.  If I could get ropes and the right men to handle them I would see what there is inside--that is, I would go into it as far as I could and be pulled out again; I'll have a peep anyhow.  I am cogitating a subject for one of these days, but I want to go below first--I mean "the present state of California."</p><P>I think when the sufferings of the emigrants both on the plains and after their arrival is known at home, our people will begin to see California stripped of her gaudy robes, her paint and outward adornments, which have been so liberally heaped upon her by thoughtless letter-writers and culpable editors, and they will be content to stay at home and reap their own grain, and enjoy the comforts which they really possess, rather than come here to starve or pick up what would be thrown from their own tables at home to satisfy the cravings of hunger.  The <HI REND="italics">greatness of California</HI>
073.sgm:!  Faugh!  Great for what and for whom?  Great at present as an outlet to a portion of the surplus wheat, pork and clothes, blacklegs, prostitutes and vicious at home, and for the would-be politicians of the country and the ultras who quarrel over us in Washington.  Oregon will be the greatest of the two, and here is another theme.  She will have more wealth in time by selling her potatoes to us at five dollars per bushel, her lumber at thirty dollars per M, her flour, her pork, and soon her woolens, her leather, &amp;c., &amp;c., than we shall have with all our mines.  If I was a politician (thank God <HI REND="italics">I am not</HI>
073.sgm: ), I would gather statistics enough to satisfy any political economist on this subject.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-3">Little Volcano, in Plumas County.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>I am a little curious to learn what effect a residence in California has had upon that portion of emigrants who have returned, whether they have as easily relapsed into steady habits again when surrounded by the moral influences of our old country, as they (not all, be it understood) fell into the snares of vice without any such restraint here.  Could not we get up some tall lectures on what we have seen--eh?  <HI REND="italics">The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire</HI>
073.sgm: by that most beautiful of all writers, Gibbon, or the rise and progress of Mormonism, couldn't hold a candle to it; it's the subject I mean, not our style or descriptive powers.</p><P>It is noon and near dinnertime.  Will you join me?  Don't fear a griddle-cake infliction.  No, no, just a plain family dinner--fried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:potatoes and ham.  I made some gingerbread yesterday--all but the ginger (that I couldn't get)--it's good, too, and that shall be our dessert.  Will you have a glass of wine?--just bring it along, for I haven't got it; but there is chocolate enough left from my breakfast to warm over again.  Come, boys, move that monte bank off the table; the Colonel<ANCHOR ID="n21-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and I want to dine. Hardy, drive that mule out of the tent; let him wait till we get through.  There, Colonel, scrape off that old cigar, take that keg and go your death.  Pshaw!  Colonel, don't pick your teeth with the fork; take your bowie knife.  What's the use of being so effeminate?  Now, tumble down on my mattress and take a siesta, while I talk to the boys.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-4">Unidentified.  Probably not Grant, who was busy in Sacramento.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>I have been sketching a little since I have been here, and succeed in getting correct outlines much better than I hoped for; but no pencil can do justice to the sublime scenery of the mountains.  You shall have an impress of the Middle Fork volcano.<ANCHOR ID="n21-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: If in going into it I meet old Pluto, I will get a description of the infernal regions, and if I find him in a communicative humor, I will ask him to explain the cause of the "mysterious knockings" which are bothering brother Greeley<ANCHOR ID="n21-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and many other wise ones at home.  I wish I was rich enough to stop work.  I would just make one grand tour through this mountain range, for you not only get one magnificent view but you see a hill ahead that you long to be on for the sake of another.  Once there, something new, varied and grand entices you on like an <HI REND="italics">ignis fatuus</HI>
073.sgm:, so that there seems no end, and you are compelled to remain unsatisfied--as I am to wind up for want of paper.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-5">Little Volcano.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-6">Horace Greeley, editor of the widely read and copied New York <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Adieu,</p><P>A. D.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>22.<LB>Marysville, October 31, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n22-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>I'VE "come down," in the language of the monte dealers, but not in their sense of the expression, with the dust.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<P>I have only made a transit from the mountain snows of the Sierra to the sunny Vale of the Sacramento, unharmed by the desperado or the treacherous savage, and I once more move in the throng of civilized man--a washed, combed and shaven <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
073.sgm:.  I see many changes in matters and things which have occurred during my last sojourn in the mountains, but presuming that your other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:correspondents will keep you sufficiently advised of them, I will speak now of mountain life.</p><P>I was as near <HI REND="italics">the Gold Lake</HI>
073.sgm: as any one probably ever was, and although I saw its blue and ice-cold water, I <HI REND="italics">did not</HI>
073.sgm: The mass of matter which had been thrown out was quartz (at least it is called so), apparently mixed with some substance which rendered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:it as hard as flint and by the action of fire presented many fantastical forms--in some instances translucent--sometimes with the crystals perfectly formed, at others partially destroyed.  I preserved a few fine specimens.  There was no lava, and some of the peculiar volcanic debris which I have often observed in the Rocky Mountains and on the hills west of the Sierra Nevada, in the Oregon Range.  Outcrops of slate appeared at and near the base; and along the river bank, directly at the foot of the mountain, one of the richest deposits was found which I have known, one man taking out $1,500 in a single pan full.  I do not, however, give this as a specimen of the richness of the placer, for this was about all that was found in that spot.  Since the general failure of dams, experiments have been made by sinking shafts in the hills and ravines, and this, at the depth of from ten to twenty feet, has been attended with success in many instances.  It is necessary to go to the bedrock, which is done with great labor often.  These latter experiments have been made in the mountains immediately bordering the Valley, from six to fifteen miles distant.  It seems as if gold loses its value with miners.  Some--indeed many who are successful--save their earnings; yet multitudes, after months of toil and privation, first in hunting a location through rain and snow or in the broiling sun, and then in the labor of digging, when they begin to reap the reward of their perseverance, squander it away as if its very possession burned their fingers.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-2">Little Volcano.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>When I first went to Independence, there were companies who every day took out from one hundred and fifty to two hundred dollars.  This continued for three weeks, when the equinoctial storm came on with rain and snow.  Fearing they would be caught by the deep snow which falls so high up, they became panic-stricken and fled from the diggings.  When they left, many had not money to pay small bills due for provisions.  The reason was simply that they had gambled it away, and on reaching the Valley I saw some of these very men at work for their board, and some at a nominal price of six dollars a day.  Wherever good placers are found the gambler is sure to follow; and another fashion is fast coming into use, which will be fully so when <HI REND="italics">that philanthropic importation arrives from France</HI>
073.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n22-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Well, somebody will be benefited by the improvidence of miners.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-3">Prostitution.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>A. D.</p><illus entity="a073-0016" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>23.<LB>Sacramento City, November 5, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n23-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>. . .AS FOR the aristocracy of wealth, I don't know what it is here, nor the aristocracy of employment, and that is one of the good features of the country.  Look at that rough-looking customer driving a dray, and now look into that eating house or hotel, at that plainly dressed woman behind the counter or waiting upon the table.  How do you know but that the drayman has been a member of Congress, is a gentleman of education and distinction, or the woman a lady of refined manners, reared in the lap of luxury, and with a high order of talents?  Go to an evening party; they may be the life and soul of as elite, as polished a circle as you ever saw.  What would you think of a man selling newspapers about the streets of Ottawa?  Would your aristocrats make him at home in their circles?  I tell you (for I know him well) that a more polished gentleman does not exist.  His acquirements are of the highest order, and he could fascinate you with his intellectual conversation, and no one man in California possesses more influence with the mass, who is more courted or more trusted than he, and all doors are open to receive him.  He can be the madman or the critic as he pleases, and he knows what he is about!  Yet selling newspapers in the streets of this city is his employment.<ANCHOR ID="n23-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-2">This is Colonel Grant.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Intellect is the true aristocracy as yet, and "birds of a feather flock together."  <HI REND="italics">Sans</HI>
073.sgm: hat, shoes or shirts.  If employment were to drive a man from kindred association where the d--l should I find company?</p><P>Since I have been a citizen of this ilk, I have actually and <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
073.sgm: been teamster, cook, canal digger, engineer, doctor, merchant, mule driver, miner, artist, and speculator, mended my own clothes, washed my own shirts, the last a confounded mean job, and I always mentally exclaimed, God help the poor women! as I was rubbing in the soap, and went barefoot for two weeks.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>Really though, if I was going to a party either in Illinois or Sacramento, I would sew up the holes in my pants and get a pair of shoes or not go, just to save the feelings of my friends who might be a little scrupulous, for in "Turkey you must do as the Turkeys do" and gobble accordingly.  When I lived with the Indians, I paid a decent regard to their feelings and customs, and in extreme hot days only wore my shirt, and the only remark it occasioned was the ridiculous whiteness of my legs; but they called me "tope Wanamah" (good fellow) and seemed to regard me as one of their own kind.</p><P>I am at this moment a citizen of the world with nothing to do.  Desirous of a little relaxation I came here on a visit to my friend Colonel Grant, and he has invited me to go to San Francisco with him.  We leave at noon to return in three days, and I promise myself a feast as well from his companionship as from a new view of the Pacific.  When I return, it will be "work, work, work" like Robin Rougham.<ANCHOR ID="n23-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: "Nothing in the world but work," but whether it will be in the preaching line, blacking boots, selling matches or pork and potatoes, I cannot tell.  There are two questions which always puzzle me to answer.  Where I live and what my business is.  It is just anywhere and anything which turns up.  If you want to go into a speculation come out and I will give you a share (thirty lots) in Yateston or Hamilton.  If you want business you may go snucks with my Indians in catching salmon or crickets.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-3">Delano probably means Robin Roughhead, a poor cottager and farm laborer, hero of a romantic comedy of 1799 entitled <HI REND="italics">Fortune's Frolic</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Cholera is here, thirty to sixty deaths per day.<ANCHOR ID="n23-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Gamblers beginning to be frightened and many leaving.  Business falling off rapidly.  There appears to be a greasing up of the clouds and we begin to look for the rains.  I have seen none of the Ottawa boys lately except Robert Brown.  He told me that all whom he had heard from who were engaged in damming the rivers had lost money.  I have not seen Fredenburg nor B. K. Thorn since I parted from them last fall and have only two or three times heard from them indirectly.  I do not know where they are or what their success has been.  It is strange I do not get the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:.  I have received only five numbers, but letters come now with much regularity.  How many of you citizens may we expect next year?</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-4">Sixty to 120 deaths a day were reported, and four fifths of the population left town, during the great epidemic of October and November, 1850.  <HI REND="italics">History of Sacramento</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The great wealth obtained by those who came out last year, the exquisite pleasure of the trip enjoyed by those who came this summer, together with the brilliant prospects before them this winter, will induce another heavy emigration.  Plenty of gold dust in the mountains, boys; only get it.</p><P>Yours,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>24.<LB>San Francisco, November 15, 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n24-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>DIG, dig, dig, and so I did, till I dug two thousand dollars and over, but hang me if I didn't dig it out of pocket instead of in.  I prospected through spectacles and can&tilde;ons with spectacles and without, and such spectacles as I saw of men who had dug and worked till their faces were gaunt and their nether garments were dilapidated, with pockets torn off, proved the truth of the old saw that "all is not gold that glitters."<ANCHOR ID="n24-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: So I came to the conclusion that if I was made for the mountains the mountains were not made for me to get rich in.  I had heard, too, that to make money a man must go where people are, for there the money is.  I had been where people were not, and I knew it didn't pay, so I commenced prospecting in new diggings.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-2">Shakespeare, <HI REND="italics">The Merchant of Venice</HI>
073.sgm:<P>When I left Marysville I had no more idea of going below Sacramento City than you have of going to the moon, but I wanted to see Colonel Grant.  You know him--so do I, like a book--Mem., keep a copy of that book always on hand.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>Now, how he treated me I shan't say, only that if he has many such hangers-on, he'll be ruined; from which, and from his multitude of friends, "God deliver him."  If he had only one shirt he'd tear it in two and give the half to a friend.  He was going to San Francisco and invited me to accompany him, an offer which my modesty could not resist, especially as the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: is, somehow, a password not to be questioned by steamboat men on the Sacramento when it comes through his lips.  I had heard of San Francisco, a kind of out-of-the-way place in the lowlands, where barbarians from all countries congregated, where the fulsomeness of their ridiculous fashions, manners, and customs offends the eye, and I determined to go, even at the expense of losing caste.  You know I came across the plains, that I have lived chiefly in the mountains, that I have sung of the native beauties in their grass aprons and costumes <HI REND="italics">a&grave; la Nature</HI>
073.sgm:, that I have praised the noble-hearted miners with their flowing beards, that I have described the scenery of the hills, and that my experience in the world above (I mean up the River) is such that I can see and judge without prejudice, however different things may be from what I have been accustomed to.  Pshaw! there's no egotism in that--not here, anyhow--so don't pucker your mouth yet; you'll pucker it worse by and by.</p><P>Did you ever hear of the <HI REND="italics">New World</HI>
073.sgm:?  Not Captain Columbus's nor any of the islands about New Orleans.  I mean the steamboat on the Sacramento, Captain Wakeman--ain't she a crack boat, and ain't the Captain some?<ANCHOR ID="n24-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Everything on board goes like clockwork except the engine, and that goes by steam, and the boat goes like a locomotive.  Everything in tip-top style, cabins, tables, staterooms, magnificent; cook, steward, chamber- <HI REND="italics">boy</HI>
073.sgm:, and waiter, civil and obliging, and the Captain's a gentleman.  Can I say more?  It will pay a man to lay over a week just to make a trip on her.  Well, we went on board.  The cholera was bad at Sacramento, and Colonel Grant was not well.  A rumbling in the lower regions was a premonitory symptom, and knowing that No. 6 was good for the epidemic, he wisely took stateroom No. 6, which with a free use of morphine, cayenne pepper, and camphor finally quieted the symptomatic indication of volcanic eruption.  This is a horrible volcanic country about these days.  I found the country as we passed along most tediously level, and I sighed for fifty pounds' weight on my back and a mountain to climb.  How awfully dull it was, not a hill which would make a greenhorn puff, and the poor engine had to do it all.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-3">Captain Edgar Wakeman (1818-1875).  Coincidentally, Wakeman also commanded a steamboat named the <HI REND="italics">New Orleans</HI>
073.sgm: on the Sacramento in 1850.  He later earned the admiration of Mark Twain, who immortalized him three times as a Captain in fiction and who publicly solicited aid when Wakeman was old, ill, and needy.  Morse, <HI REND="italics">First History of Sacramento</HI>
073.sgm:, 56; San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:, December 14, 1872; May 10, 1875; Ivan Benson, <HI REND="italics">Mark Twain's Western Years</HI>
073.sgm:<P>We arrived at San Francisco before daylight, and I sallied out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:after sunrise to view a scene which to me was entirely new.  How sadly was I disappointed.  I had heard the beauty of the Bay described, its capacity to hold thousands of ships, and the town as a city.  Why, gentlemen, I couldn't see the Bay at all, for the ships, jammed together like a vast forest of dead pines, hid it entirely, and I "couldn't see the town for houses."  Now there isn't a single <HI REND="italics">rancheri&acute;a</HI>
073.sgm: in California that you can't see the whole at a glance with all the women and children; and here you couldn't begin--it was abominable.  A stranger would require a guide to find his way to any point along the trails, and had it not been for the kind care of Colonel Grant, I should have been prospecting up to this time--a lost miner in the gulches.  All the people, and the trails were full as if they had found new diggings, wore clothes--actually fine white shirts, dress coats, and whole pants, with hair combed and brushed like new wigs, boots blacked, and you could scarcely find a check or red flannel shirt in the whole crowd.  And then there were carts, drays, candy stands, bookracks, newsboys, and the Lord knows what all in the trails, so plenty that it kept me on a dogtrot to elbow my way through and keep up with the Colonel.  Why, I actually saw a woman, at least the Colonel said it was one, with a parasol over her head, a bonnet on, and hang me if she wasn't <HI REND="italics">dressed all over</HI>
073.sgm: in silk.  Thinks I to myself, she never drove team on the sand plain nor made acorn bread in a ranch, poor thing.  Here she is cooped up in town without knowing anything of the beauties of nature!  I pitied her from my soul.</p><P>Everybody knew Colonel Grant just as if he had always lived in the mountains, and they all seemed glad to see him, shaking hands till his arm ached, and finally they got to shaking hands with his shadow.  I was his shadow, for the tall houses hid the sun so that he couldn't have any other.  So I shook hands till my legs ached, and I finally told the Colonel he must get another shadow, for I was used up.  "Well," says he, "let's go to sea."  "Go to see who?" says I.  "Pshaw!  I mean prospecting on the Bay."  "Very well," said I, "I'm ready, pick in hand; lead, I'll follow your trail."  So he made tracks for a wherry, and after pulling a long way out, we brought up at the foot of the barque <HI REND="italics">Constance</HI>
073.sgm:, Captain Barry, from Salem.<ANCHOR ID="n24-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Here was a relief--we couldn't go on board without climbing, and I began to feel at home.  Climbing the side of a tall ship was no ways equal to climbing a hill five miles high, and the time it took was ridiculously small, but it rested me exceedingly, although it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:prospecting on an entirely new trail.  We were met on deck by Captain Barry, whose frank and cordial hospitality was equal to that of an old miner.  I somehow felt at home at once, on being ushered into the cabin.  That perhaps is not strange, for I have lived in <HI REND="italics">cabins</HI>
073.sgm: or tents nearly all the time I have been in California, and the fashion of climbing to get into it was much more agreeable than that of stepping off of a flagstone into a hotel; and here, too, I could see a check shirt and a tarpaulin hat without that everlasting bowing and scraping of the barbarians on shore, and the masts, so trim and straight, put me in mind of the glorious old pines of the mountains.  Thinks I to myself, this going to sea is not so bad after all.  The sea-faring hombres are a civilized race with souls as large as their ships.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-4">Captain John Barry (1805 or 1806-1876), a native of Salem.  He was second officer of the <HI REND="italics">Friendship</HI>
073.sgm: of Salem when she was cut off and captured by Malays on the coast of Sumatra in 1831.  The <HI REND="italics">Constance</HI>
073.sgm: arrived at San Francisco on August 10, 1850, 177 days from Boston, and departed for Manila November 15 following.  San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:, August 11, 1850; Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
073.sgm:, November 18, 1850; Salem (Massachusetts) <HI REND="italics">Register</HI>
073.sgm:, January 24, 1876; San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Pacific Marine Review</HI>
073.sgm:<P>We met several captains of other ships on board, and somehow, between tales of the ocean and tales of the mountains and desert, the time slipped like a mountain slide, and it was tea time before a gulch was tested.  "Captain," says Grant, "shall you have any griddle cakes for supper?"  "I do not think my cook knows how to make them," replied Captain Barry.  "Come, D., roll up your sleeves and go into the cookroom and go at it," said G.  The captains all laughed at the idea--"He cook?  What does he know about cooking?  No, no, that's breaking ground a little too strong."  "I tell you what," said G., "I must have griddle cakes for supper, and he can make them--I know it."  "Captain," says I, rising and throwing off my coat and cap, "don't you know that I came across the plains and have lived in the mountains?  Did you ever see a miner who could not cook, wash, mend, make shoes, prospect, and spin yarns?  Tell the cook to tote up the flour, and I'll tote up the cakes."  We had griddle cakes for tea--I made 'em, and G. said they were better than those I made for him last fall on Mud Hill.</p><P>Captain Welsh, of the <HI REND="italics">Merlin</HI>
073.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n24-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: was on board, and he gave a most interesting account of a recent visit to Loo Choo, one of the dependencies of Japan.<ANCHOR ID="n24-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: It seemed to me that there were many particulars connected with his visit which would be of importance to our government to know, but as the recital is his own private property, I shall not touch it.  He is a gentleman of talents and can make out (as he intends doing) a highly interesting document respecting that strange and peculiar people.  I hope you will get his letter, and I promise you a rich treat from its perusal.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-5">Perhaps Charles Welsh, an American sea captain who first came to California in 1848 and died at San Francisco in 1883.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-6">Now the Ryukyu Islands.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>We passed two nights on shipboard enjoying the hospitality of Captain Barry, whom I shall long remember, spending our days among the barbarians on shore.  I might give you a labored description of San Francisco, but I have hardly time now to go into particulars.  I don't think you have got a clear idea of it from any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:description which I have read, nor of the manners and customs of the natives.  The town is abominably crowded with people, all dressed from top to toe.  I haven't seen a naked man or woman in the streets, and their ways are as <HI REND="italics">outre&acute;</HI>
073.sgm: as their appearance.  The buildings are overgrown things with doorways so large that you can walk in without getting on your hands and knees.  Beef and bread are so ruinously cheap that the very dogs are fed on it, and when a man uses salt, he piles it up to waste just as if it cost nothing, and I actually saw a little boy throw away a piece of bread <HI REND="italics">which he could not eat at once</HI>
073.sgm:.  Just think of the poor starving souls on the plains.  Water is of no more account than if a spring lay in every gulch, and--well, well, live and learn--notwithstanding my repugnance, I have about been persuaded to spend this winter here.</p><P>A.D.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>25.<LB>San Francisco, January 15, 1851.<ANCHOR ID="n25-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>ONE year ago this day I was hard at work in the Feather River mountains, whenever the rains would permit, in building a fireplace and finishing off a comfortable cabin on a claim which I had taken up, with the bright anticipation that at the present writing I would be comfortably seated in a snug, carpeted room at home, with my family around me and a few friends, discoursing upon the wonders which I had seen, of the perils I had encountered, and showing with honest pride the curious specimens which I had picked up in the mines of California; and what has been the result?  The building was completed, the work done, and I never worked so hard in my whole life.  I lived with the utmost prudence and calculated to a nicety, but not only that claim, but twelve others in which I was interested, failed--all failed, and not a dollar was obtained, and by the changes incident to the country, I have become a resident and man of business in the most astonishing city of the Union.  And yet I should not complain--nor do I.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<P>With only four dollars in my pocket when I arrived at Sacramento City last year, I have contrived to handle thousands, and although a great deal of it would not stick to my fingers; yet some of it did, and a portion of it is in a shape which neither "moth will corrupt nor thieves break through and steal," being a farm on the navigable waters of Feather River.<ANCHOR ID="n25-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: You never would dream that the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: had been the cause of my being a resident of San Francisco; yet such is the fact.  You know the history of my first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:acquaintance with Colonel Grant.  By his solicitation I became your correspondent, and that correspondence made us acquainted with each other, which soon ripened into intimacy, and the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: was a bond of union between us.  When I came down from the Gold Lake mountains in October, I paid Colonel Grant a friendly visit and, at his invitation, visited San Francisco for the first time, which resulted in my establishing myself for the time being in business here.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-2">Matthew vi: 19.  The "farm" was probably at Oleepa.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Had it not been for the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: my first acquaintance with Colonel Grant would have ended where it began, at Mud Hill, and had it not been for the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, I should not have classed among my friends one of the most generous, noble-hearted gentlemen I ever knew, despite of all his eccentricities.</p><P>Men who live isolated in the mountains know but little of what is going on in the Valley, only in a general way, and those who live in the cities can scarcely understand and appreciate fully what is going on in the mines.  Conflicting accounts often reach both parties, and I hesitate to describe only what I see.  What I have written of the mountain region and such portions of California which I have seen, I have no reason to change.  I simply described it as I saw it.  I am now in a new sphere, and with a change of season, a change of climate, and a great change of association, I find myself in quite a new scene.  And if I could make it pay I would vary the scene still more, for I would see the whole country--aye--and other countries too.</p><P>Last year, from the 3rd of November till about the 1st of February, it was pouring down "from the flood gates of Heaven" like big guns.  The rivers overflowed their banks and more than one quarter of the Valley was submerged.  This year, up to the present time, there has not been near as much rain as is usual at home, and the weather has been luxuriously pleasant.</p><P>The climate on the Coast I think is healthy and decidedly desirable for a residence, and were it not for three especial reasons--a wife and two children at home--I should not think of returning.  The valley of Santa Clara and the country around San Jose produce the finest vegetables in the world, as our markets, well supplied, abundantly testify, and when California shall have disenthralled herself of the immorality, the vice, and hordes of Mexican and Sydney villains,<ANCHOR ID="n25-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: as well as a sprinkling from other countries, this portion of it will be desirable as a home.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-3">"In the early part of the winter of 1850...Sydney convicts began to arrive."  <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains</HI>
073.sgm:<P>But now we are in a crisis, the result of which must bring ruin and misfortune to a multitude of individuals, though it may end in substantial benefit to the country.  A failure in the mines, as well as a failure in the city, throws men upon their individual resources; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:and as the best business which has been followed the past season has been that of horticulture, thousands, by a natural impulse, are looking to Mother Earth for her bounty to replenish their pockets.  This, of course, will develop the agricultural resources of the country, as well as find a permanent and industrious population employment.  The country at this moment is overstocked with merchandise and provisions.  In the mines, unless it may be in those most distant, there is more than can be sold during the winter; and this is the case in all the towns.  Everything imported from the States is selling at a ruinous sacrifice, and as the <HI REND="italics">want</HI>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:capital of a hundred thousand dollars and are selling off shares at a hundred dollars a head.  What fools--when they could have made so much more by a week's work in sifting gold at the Bluff--ahem!  But fools are not all dead, and they are actually making large sales of shares.  I have seen several gentlemen of intelligence who have visited the spot, who say that it is a ridiculous humbug.</p><P>A. D.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>26.<LB>San Francisco, April 1, 1851.<ANCHOR ID="n26-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>EDS. OF <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: --Don't you want to come to California?  Don't you want to get rich?  Do not the piles which we are taking out excite your acquisitiveness?  Well, why don't you come?  You read the papers and of course see the accounts of the new diggings daily discovered.  And you occasionally see men returning with piles, and why can't you get it if they can?  Let me see.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The gold is here for a certainty; for a certainty new mines are found, and as certainly the papers report it; men go home, too, with money.</p><P>O, aye, it takes a confounded sight of labor and prison fare to look for the placers, and when you get your finger on it, the placer is displaced like the flea's whereabouts and--what amount actually do men bring home?  You hear amounts variously estimated; but do you know--do they show you their piles?  I have been sometimes amused with reports from your scandal-loving country of the sums which various men have the reputation of bringing home, when it leaks out here not unfrequently that for thousands you should read hundreds.  Good Lord--why, I could show you on paper that I am worth from twenty to forty thousand dollars; but if I should show you the gold it might sink to tens.  Paper currency is unknown in any other way only as State, county and city script, and that at about sixty per cent. discount--but calculating a man's wealth here on paper generally proves at greater discount than city script.</p><P>We hope, however, that this fact will not be made known, and that the gold fever will continue; for we have lots of Indians to kill off and about six hundred miles of mountains to settle, and confidently expect an increase of at least twenty thousand souls to our population,<ANCHOR ID="n26-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: besides the usual mode of peopling new territories.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-2">The influx of 1851 was well over twenty thousand, but less than that of each of the two preceding years.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>If you come, don't bring any money; for what is the use when you can shovel it up?  It will plague you to keep it when you do--that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:know to be a fact from experience.  If you are determined to come, let me give you a few words of advice, so that you can pass muster and be respectable among us.</p><P>First, drink brandy; then learn to play at <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
073.sgm:; become a member of some church; rob somebody to get your hand in; fill your pockets with bogus dollars; then slope<ANCHOR ID="n26-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: between two days, and you will be prepared to go into business immediately on your arrival without preliminary practice; and you no doubt will be appointed a judge or elected to some office.  If you are not, stick to gambling till your turn comes.  If you want some inferior business, you can get a silent partner--sometimes called a sleeping partner, though not always silent--and open a cigar store; and then with what you can steal, you will do something in the diggings.  I have only to add that you will be in a great country, among a great people, and be one of us.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-3">Run away.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>For the last four months I have been a citizen of San Francisco.  As I am a candidate for no office under the sun of California, I can safely say that my interests are not exclusively identified with those of the dear people, but no doubt would be with a fat office in perspective.  As it is, I can't well do any other way than tell you the truth.</p><P>Well, then, San Francisco is a town such as I never saw before.  There is a vast amount of intellect, science, and go-ahead-activeness in its mixed population, and I think it must become one of the most important cities on the Pacific so long as the mines continue productive, and they cannot be exhausted in a lifetime.</p><P>The climate is salubrious, and the country along the Coast is healthy; but dead animals in these latter days do emit an offensive effluvia, in spite of what it might have been in Mr. Bryant's times.  In sober prose I like San Francisco and the seacoast, and if my three especial reasons<ANCHOR ID="n26-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: were fairly domiciled here, I should prefer living here to any town east of the Rocky Mountains.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-4">Wife and two children.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>As for giving you a labored description of the town, I shan't do it; for you have read descriptions over and over in the papers, and then a bosom friend of mine--ycleped "Old Block," has "done the deed,"<ANCHOR ID="n26-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and I hate to write what has been written over and over.<ANCHOR ID="n26-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-5">Shakespeare, <HI REND="italics">Macbeth</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-6">His "Pen Knife Sketches...by an Old Block" were appearing in the <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
073.sgm:.  San Francisco <HI REND="italics">California Daily Courier</HI>
073.sgm:, June 21, 1851.  Cf.  <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:<P>If you will get up a subscription and send me my three reasons, I won't come back at all, but will take a trip to the Celestials and give you sketches from China--as for that matter I could do it almost any day by looking from my office into the street; for we have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:Chinese men and women as well as natives from all nations and some parts of the moon.  The latter resemble the people of earth very much; only they have tails, wings, and are born with their clothes on, and generally fulfill their promises.  For a particular description of these last, please see my journal when I go there, page 56.</p><P>Our citizens have been lately gratified with the sight of about a dozen Japanese who were picked up at sea in a shipwrecked condition, far from their native land, by an American ship and brought to this port.  You know that Japan has been a sealed country to the world and but little is known of its customs.  They resemble somewhat in appearance the Chinese; but there is a marked difference, and it is hoped their advent among us may lead to an intercourse with their nation.  I was walking along Long Wharf, one of the principal thoroughfares of our city, on Sunday, in company with a number of ladies and gentlemen, when we met them promenading.  We mutually stopped to gaze at each other; the ladies especially attracted their attention, and they apparently seemed unable to determine to what class of humanity the countrywomen belonged, and, like my Indians last summer, appeared to ask each other, "What things those animals were?"--They appear to be an inquisitive but inoffensive race. They are treated with kindness and attention.</p><P>Had you received the first part of my journal<ANCHOR ID="n26-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: you would have learned of my first introduction to a somewhat remarkable man, Colonel Joseph S. Watkins, formerly of Virginia.  In our trying transit across the plains, we became well acquainted with and formed a warm friendship for each other, and among the thousand petty annoyances of the journey calculated to engender ill-feeling, we had a mutual sympathy which an ignorant, agitatious, and self-willed class of our companions could not understand nor appreciate.  I could give you many anecdotes of his goodness of heart and greatness of soul, and you would come to the conclusion that he is of the "salt of the earth," with but few like him.  We parted on our arrival in the Valley, though with the expectation of soon meeting again; but this was prevented by a strangecourse of events, an interesting history in itself, and until within a few days we lost sight of each other.  About three weeks ago I put a notice in the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
073.sgm: inquiring of him.<ANCHOR ID="n26-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: This happily reached him in the southern mines, and he immediately addressed a letter to me, and two days ago I was gratified with a visit from him.  A man who was an intimate friend of Jefferson and Marshall, who for a term of twenty-one years occupied a prominent station in the councils of Virginia, a man of large scientific and literary acquirements and of great experience in life, could not fail to be a useful and amusing companion, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:although he has not been successful as a millionaire, he is extensively known in California, respected for his talents, and beloved for his virtues.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-7">Cf.p. 19.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-8">Delano ran a business card in the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The attention of Californians is beginning to be turned to quartz mining extensively, and so far as present prospects are concerned, it promises more certain return than any other mode of working gold.  I do not choose to speak of it more particularly now, as much is experimental; but thus far it has been generally successful.  I have given my views upon the subject for publication to a gentleman from New York, both geologically and practically, and will not trouble you by a repetition.</p><P>Rich veins have been discovered, and I have traced one personally 150 miles.  The only way these can be successfully worked is by the concentration of capital; individual labor can do but little.</p><P>My opinion is that here is the fountainhead of all the gold and that this species of mining will form for a hundred years to come the legitimate mining, and one of the principal sources of wealth, of California.  Extraordinary developments have been made, and I may speak more particularly hereafter.  I will, however, mention that it will cost from fifteen to twenty thousand dollars to open a mine and get it ready for practical mining, and science is necessary to be successful.</p><P>I forget what your laws and customs are at home.  I know only the customs of the Pacific.  Will you please inform me whether my wife is married again or not?  If a man dines out here, he may find himself turned out of house and home when he comes back to tea, and is met in the door by the other husband to tell him his bread and butter "isn't as it used to was."</p><P>A lady came here from the States to join her husband, who was at work in the mines.  On her arrival, he dispatched a friend with funds to pay expenses and bring her up to his mountain home.  Not hearing from them, "he went down into Egypt"<ANCHOR ID="n26-9">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and found his friend married to his wife, and keeping house together. Like a sensible man, however, he went back to the mines and "tended tu what he was duin."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-9">Genesis <HI REND="italics">xlii</HI>
073.sgm:<P>I could give you a list of the latest robberies and murders, but you will get enough by the papers which I send you by the steamers regularly.</p><P>I saw Keefer and Olmstead<ANCHOR ID="n26-10">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: a short time since--well and doing well.  I see by a paper that Jesse Green has returned safe, for which I heartily rejoice; for a better man never crossed the plains, nor one whose success would give me more pleasure.  I hope to take him by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:the hand next fall.  I have not seen George Green.  I heard he was hard at work, but with what success I did not learn.  Direct all communications to me here.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-10">John Olmstead, of Ottawa.  He had a store at Placerville in December, 1849.  <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Yours truly,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p><illus entity="a073-0018" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>27.<LB>Grass Valley, Nevada County, June 11, 1851.<ANCHOR ID="n27-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>ONCE more in the mountains--once more among the everlasting hills of California, the land of circumstance and of adventure.  How truly may it be said that "no man knoweth what the morrow may bring forth."<ANCHOR ID="n27-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: When I last descended from the snow-capped peaks of the Snowy Mountains,<ANCHOR ID="n27-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I thought that it was for the last time and that that my weary feet would no more climb their dizzy heights, nor my tongue again be parched by burning thirst.  But, alas, a life of ease is not for me, and, until the sun of life goes down, I may hardly hope for rest.  Yet "hope on, hope ever," and in California even hope for heaven.  The desire for wealth brought me here, and the weary search for gold hath made misery often my companion; yet although I have not been completely successful and have run many risks, I am not discouraged and will still plod on.  Trade in the city became dull and fluctuating, and an opportunity occurring of selling out to advantage, it could not be neglected, for here you must go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:with the current.  Stemming it is destruction; so I closed for the time my "merchandise."  About the same time the subject of quartz mining began to attract attention and my mining experience was sought.  I examined a vein at Grass Valley, between Yuba and Bear rivers, made a favorable report, backed up by an offer to invest all I possessed in the world, and became a party in a quartz mining company.  And this species of mining will be the text of my sermon.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-2">Cf. James iv: 14</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-3">Sierra Nevada</NOTE>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:gray granite, partially decomposed.  Occasionally a large boulder is found through which they blast.  They are following the vein, not downward, but horizontally.  There are other tunnels at Nevada City, but none so rich as this have been discovered, and in some the vein has not been struck.</p><P>At Grass Valley, five miles below Nevada City, are probably the most extensive quartz mining operations that exist at this moment in California.  Late last fall a layer of quartz was struck in sinking a shaft for coyote digging on the top of a hill, since called Gold Hill, which was found to contain a large deposit of gold.  The quartz here seems to lay in slabs and boulders as if it had been raised and a mass of earth, falling in, filled the cavity, leaving the quartz near the surface; and consequently, although there is a large quantity of ore, there is not a regular vein, unless at a greater depth than it has been prospected.  Across a small ravine south, and perhaps eighty rods distant from Gold Hill, is Massachusetts Hill, where the Sierra Nevada Quartz Mining Company is located.<ANCHOR ID="n27-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-4">Delano was a member of this company.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>On this hill the last-named company are in active operation and are opening their mine scientifically so that it may be worked for years.  Here they struck a well-defined vein four inches thick and which increased in richness and thickness as they proceeded down, when at the depth of sixty feet the vein was eighteen inches thick, the dip being to the east at an angle of forty-five degrees.  At this depth they came to water, but the vein can be followed north and south above the water.  They then commenced a tunnel at the base of the hill about an hundred and fifty feet below its apex, and had proceeded only twenty feet when they struck what is supposed to be a lateral vein twelve inches thick of the same character of earth as at Gold Tunnel at Nevada City.  They are continuing the tunnel through this vein in the direction of the vein which they must reach within two hundred feet.</p><P>You may judge something of the character of the vein when I tell you that they employed from five to twenty men at an expense of five dollars per day in prospecting--have dug at least four hundred feet, and probably nine tenths of the labor in opening the mine has been unproductive of revenue; yet they have paid all expenses of labor, board and tools, and acquisition of working territory from the mine itself, by crushing pieces of quartz by hand in a mortar and washing <HI REND="italics">without quicksilver</HI>
073.sgm:, and have at this moment ten thousand dollars' worth of rock and rich earth raised (estimating it at thirty dollars per ton, the price paid at the mills) clear of expense.</p><P>The mines in that vicinity do not sell their richest specimens to the crushing mills.  It is only the refuse rock or that in which gold is not visible to the naked eye.  The rich specimens the miners crush themselves by hand, and these yield one to ten dollars, and even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:two ounces to the pound.  Indeed, I have one piece weighing nine ounces avoirdupois which, by estimating its specific gravity, contains three ounces of gold.</p><P>I will at some convenient opportunity send you a specimen.  One of the specimens weighing fourteen pounds, from this vein, containing over six hundred dollars, was sold to go to the World's Fair,<ANCHOR ID="n27-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:by an expense of two or three thousand dollars a vein may be prospected and a degree of certainty arrived at which will justify a farther expenditure.  I append a calculation predicated upon <HI REND="italics">what is actually done</HI>
073.sgm: at some of the mines at Grass Valley.  I will take a twelve-horsepower engine with poor crushers and imperfect machinery and exorbitant wages as a basis:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-5">The first international exhibition, at the Crystal Palace, London, 1851.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>10 tons crushed in 24 hours is<HSEP>   20,000 lbs.</p><P>Yield per pound<HSEP><HSEP><HSEP><HSEP>5c.</p><P>Total per day<HSEP><HSEP><HSEP>      $1,000.00</p><P><HI REND="italics">Expenses</HI>
073.sgm:.</p><P>20 men at $10 per day, men</p><P>boarding themselves      $200</p><P>Wear and tear and extras   100--     300.00</p><P>Profit<HSEP><HSEP><HSEP>     $    700.00</p><P>One year, say days<HSEP><HSEP>     300</p><P>$210,000.00</p><P>Leaving a profit of two hundred and ten thousand dollars per year.  Men can be hired at from three to five dollars per day; and with proper machinery thirty and forty tons of rock can be crushed as well as ten, which, of course, increases your profits.  Now, instead of estimating the yield at five cents make it one half or two and one half cents, and you will find you are doing rather a snug cash business; and then hit upon some method of saving all the gold, and instead of two and one half cents to the pound, you will have from fifteen to twenty-five cents at least.</p><P>God forbid that I should mislead anyone on this subject.  I have suffered too much myself to wish even a dog to endure what I have but I desire to give my countrymen the truth and the benefit of my experience without my hardships.  It is an impression gaining favor here that quartz mining will become a legitimate business of California as much as woolgrowing in the Western States, and I confess that I am compelled to adopt that opinion from what I have seen.  I have personally traced this vein by outcrops and excavations more than a hundred and fifty miles, and feel confident of its extent.  It passes through the country in a southeast and northwest direction, following the main direction of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and the general dip is to the east at an angle of forty-five degrees.  There are evidences of silver in quantities, but I defer that subject until my information is more definite, although I have seen beautiful specimens of pure metal that had been melted like the lumps of gold which we find.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>The awful fire at San Francisco has beggared hundreds and ruined thousands.<ANCHOR ID="n27-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I, too, come in for my share of loss and at present can only say as the fellow did when the saddle turned and threw him into the mud, "just like my d----d luck."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-6">This was the fifth "great fire." Soule&acute; <HI REND="italics">et al., Annals</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Truly yours,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>28.<LB>San Francisco, June 13, 1851.<ANCHOR ID="n28-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>FRIENDS OSMAN--I was most agreeably surprised by a visit from my friend Dr. Hall, who is on his way home.  If I can rejoice at the success of any man, it is at his, for one of a better heart or more moral honesty I never met.  He is one who returns unscathed by the vices of California and is the same here as at home.  He is among those who are entitled to my best regards, and I cordially hope that his last days may be prosperous and happy.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<P>I wish you would tell McNeil to write me, for in our long sojourn together, in the hour of trial and amid danger and difficulty, I learned to appreciate his kindness and good will.  Oh! how I should love to sit down with some of those old returned Californians and while away an hour or two in talking over our travels along the Nemahas, the Platte, the plains, the desert, the can&tilde;ons, and the mountains.  I could almost come on purpose to see Captain George Green and the brave old pioneer, his father, and other good men and true who suffered the perils of that arduous trip.  You see my heart is expanding towards them, and I can't help giving utterance to my feelings.</p><P>As your country is great for reports, I have been amused--not offended--at one I have recently heard respecting myself and to this effect, "that Delano provided nothing for his family when he left home, that he had sent them nothing since he has been here, and that he traveled across the plains with another woman."  As to the first two, it may spoil a good story when I refer the lovers of the dark side to my own family for the truth of the two first counts, and for the third, I simply ask those who traveled in our train to state the facts.  As for women, I did save the life of one here in San Francisco, and gave her shelter and protection after the fire for two or three days, until she got a situation with Captain Sutter's family at one thousand dollars a year; and could you hear her story, it would be that of respect, and that even here a <HI REND="italics">man</HI>
073.sgm: may do a <HI REND="italics">good</HI>
073.sgm: deed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:which he may not blush to own.  Except this one, who by circumstances was thrown upon my protection by a course of events--an interesting tale of itself--when a man should blush <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
073.sgm: to do as I did, and when I was encouraged by pious and good people of both sexes, there are not three other females in California that even know my name; and I do not blush, nor need any of my friends blush for any act of mine since I have been in this God-forsaken land, nor will they have occasion to.  I feel that it is scarcely necessary for me to speak a word in defense of myself, and I drop the subject.</p><P>We are in the midst of certainly a moral and nearly a political revolution.  The outrages upon the order-loving people have been so great--so many murders, robberies, and incendiary conflagrations have been committed, not only here but throughout California, and so wretchedly has the law been administered, that the people have arisen in their might to <HI REND="italics">protect themselves</HI>
073.sgm:.</p><P>Since the great fire, eight different palpable attempts have been made to fire the city.  It is no longer safe to walk the streets after dark unarmed, and we do not know when we lay down at night but that before the morning sun our dwellings may be burnt to ashes.  The magistrates and police cannot execute the laws if they would.  Lawyers are found who will make the technicalities and subtleties of the law subservient to the horde of villains who are in our midst, to screen them from justice.  The penal colonies of Great Britain are emptying their hordes of convicts upon our shores, and every arrival from Sydney swells the number by hundreds.  A mass meeting was held on the Plaza yesterday--another today, and another will be held tomorrow, to adopt some measures to protect ourselves and check the crime that is carrying murder and desolation to our citizens in their dwellings.  This is no fancy sketch.  Ask any man who is returning from California--he will attest its truth.</p><P>A man was caught in the act of setting fire to the city a few days ago.  He is in the hands of the law <HI REND="italics">and will escape</HI>
073.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n28-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Night before last a man was caught with a safe which he had stolen.  He was seized, tried by the citizens fairly and impartially, found guilty, and hung before daylight.<ANCHOR ID="n28-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-2">On June 3, 1851, Benjamin Lewis underwent a preliminary examination on the charge of arson; his indictment was twice quashed for "defects" and he was released.  Soule&acute; <HI REND="italics">et al., Annals</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-3">On June 10 John Jenkins stole a safe from a store on Long Wharf.  At midnight the Vigilance Committee hanged him.  <HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:<P>There are thousands upon the Plaza today, and with a small exception, the feeling of self-defense was the ruling one.  A few attempted to stem the popular current, and a gang of bullies and rowdies attempted to put down the movement on the part of the people, and at one time there were indications of a severe fight.  But the people triumphed--resolutions passed which amounted to little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:else than revolution, and tomorrow another mass meeting is to be held.</p><P>All men regret that the exigencies of the case demand the stormy interposition of the people to punish crime, but lamentable as it is, the case is necessary.  No man has ever been legally executed for murder in San Francisco, and but two in the State,<ANCHOR ID="n28-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: out of the hundreds committed.  In one of the cases alluded to it was for a cool unprovoked murder of an influential citizen.  The culprit was condemned to be hung, but the Governor (McDougal) gave him a respite and then a full pardon, but the people broke into the jail and executed the just sentence themselves.<ANCHOR ID="n28-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Some forty persons have been murdered here since last fall, and every murderer has escaped.  You can form but little idea of the actual state of things, but Dr. Hall can tell you more than I have time to write.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-4">Bancroft lists fifteen executions in the State during the first nine months of its existence, but which, if any, were strictly legal is not now discoverable.  <HI REND="italics">Popular Tribunals</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-5">Hamilton McCauley was tried, convicted of murder, and sentenced to death by the Napa court of sessions in March, 1851, the execution to take place on May 15.  Governor McDougal sent a reprieve, but it failed to arrive in time to prevent the hanging.  <HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:., I, 166-170.  John McDougal (1818-1866), second governor of California, was a "gentlemanly drunkard, and democratic politician of the order for which California was destined to become somewhat unpleasantly notorious."  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The city is nearly rebuilt since the fire.  I am once more in my old office--rather, in a new one, where the old one stood.  I find my actual loss by the fire was a little over twelve hundred dollars, but as luck would have it, it didn't break me.  It came a little hard, as it was money loaned out.--Quartz mining is still good and will be for ages.</p><P>Business, I mean merchandising, is good for nothing.  Goods are lower than in New York--even in the mines it does not pay as a general thing.  Men dare not employ capital, and there is neither confidence nor credit.</p><P>I am writing out my journal as I get leisure, and although I have not determined to publish it, I may conclude to do so eventually.<ANCHOR ID="n28-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-6">It was published in part in the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, February 8-9, 1850, and in full as <HI REND="italics">Life on the Plains and Among the Diggings</HI>
073.sgm:<P>After leaving the Humboldt we were in a country but little known, and almost every day presented something new and strange.  I saw in a number of the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: that a regular trade had sprung up between San Francisco and Sydney in importing women who are sold at public auction.  This is certainly news to us.  No such thing has happened since I have been a resident of the city, and all I can learn about it is that about a year ago some females were brought from Sydney, and by their own consent their time was sold by the Captain long enough to pay their passage.  I send you a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
073.sgm: (Daily) which contains a Pen Knife Whittling--the last number.<ANCHOR ID="n28-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: --I am writing hurriedly, as you perceive.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-7">The San Francisco <HI REND="italics">California Daily Courier</HI>
073.sgm:<P>I can't tell when I shall come home.  Perhaps your newsmongers will have me married again soon, and then you know I shall not dare come.  There are many of your citizens for whom I entertain warm feelings of friendship, and I hope to take them by the hand within a year.--I'm growing garrulous and will close.</p><P>Truly yours,</p><P>A. DELANO</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>29.<LB>Grass Valley, Sierra Nevada Quartz Mines, June 29, 1851.<ANCHOR ID="n29-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Climate</HI>
073.sgm:, &amp;c.--I'm going to give a lecture.  Please be seated and attend respectfully to the speaker.  I am about to make some experiments, my dear hearers (or readers), for your edification, and you will of course follow my directions in order that your understanding may be properly enlightened with regard to the subject before us.  Climate, then, the first matter for our consideration, is bounded on the West by Sacramento City.  Wheugh! who ever heard of climate being a geographical discovery before?--attention! then--no interruption.  We do up things in California to suit ourselves, and the Lord knows some of 'em are antagonistic to all natural and human laws.  If we freeze in San Francisco and sweat in the Valley of the Sacramento, it is our privilege to do so.  I am now in the sweat region and am about giving you its boundaries according to my discoveries.  Climate, then, is bounded on the North by the Cascade and Pit River Mountains; on the East by Nevada City, Auburn, and that line of hills; on the South by Mount Diablo, and how much further I can't tell, as I have only been to the Devil--I meant the Devil's Mountain.  It has been a mooted point whether the sun is hot or cold, but it is generally allowed that the sun makes the climate warm.  In California there are two causes--first, big fires underground--second, the sun overhead--and by climbing Mount Diablo just beyond Sacramento City in a hot day, you will see that the sun is a red-hot mass that sends his burning rays hizzing and fizzing from above to meet the steam and internal heat of the fires under the Valley of the Sacramento, so that the climate here is between two fires, and would you experiment on the warmth of this climate?  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:Well, take off your coat--"good"--now your vest--"very well"--slip off your pants--"ridiculous"--off with your shirt--" <HI REND="italics">git out</HI>
073.sgm: "--why, the natives do it here--now go to a baker's oven just as he is putting in his bread, and crawl in, and you'll not only be done brown but get a pretty correct idea of the climate about these days in this part of California.  At this blessed moment I am setting in my nice log cabin breathing the hot pure mountain air of this pleasant location, divested of all covering except shirt and pants and I wish they were off--and my handkerchief is doing duty manfully, but hang me if it can dry up the streams that course o'er my brows.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Now for the "and so forth."  The determination of the people in the cities to protect themselves against the lawless gangs of desperados who are bringing ruin upon the whole country is extending itself to the mining districts.  Sensible that such felons will take refuge in the mines when an asylum is no longer afforded them in the cities, the miners are associating for the purpose of punishing crime, and Vigilance Committees are organizing.  One was formed here last night, and we are ready to pay our respects to all scoundrels who may be inclined to pay us a visit.  Repugnant as this course is to Americans who are brought up in the school of law and order, there is no other way to save our lives and to protect our property, for the technicalities of the law have been perverted to screen the guilty and protect them in their career of crime so long that nothing is left but a resolution in fact to put the law into the hands of the people to protect themselves.  You will learn by the public prints the infamous use made of the pardoning power by Governor McDougal in granting a full and free pardon to a murderer, a wanton and deliberate murderer.<ANCHOR ID="n29-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: It is but a sample of the manner in which the law has been administered by those entrusted with its execution.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-2">Cf. p. 119</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>I am cognizant of all the transactions of the people at San Francisco, having taken an active part in some of the public meetings there; yet I leave a description of them to others.  I am now at work on my claim in the mountains.  The condition of things is lamentable in other ways than the disorders of judicial proceedings.  Business is nearly at a stand.  By the late fires thousands are completely ruined and thrown out of employment.<ANCHOR ID="n29-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Those who can stand the sun and severe labor go to the mines, but there are many, very many, who are unused to labor and although they may have the will, do not possess the strength and are in vain seeking employment.  At this time the best business and literary talent can be employed in San Francisco for their board. Indeed, I know men of ability, of honesty, and of good morals, who could not even get that, and have not money either to live on or to get out of town.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:never wanted to be rich so much in my life as since the fire.  Rich, humph!  Do you know that Colonel Grant has become a prophet?  He had the impudence to declare to Dr. Morse<ANCHOR ID="n29-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: the other day that I never would be rich.  The only thing I care about the prophecy is it's truth.  Well, I can't steal, and if I can't get rich without, I shall enjoy the company of two Californians who can <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Teach me to feel another's woe,"<ANCHOR ID="n29-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<LB></HI>
073.sgm:</p><P>and Grant re-Morse for my sins of omission--eh, Colonel--?  Let's see, where was I?  O, talking about business.  It is but little better in the mines than in the cities.  Goods and provisions are abundant and cheap, affording but little profit.  So many have rushed into trade that profits are cut down to little more than a living, and although mining is uncertain, yet at this moment it is, in my opinion, the surest business of the country.  Agriculture is attended to, and where land can be irrigated very good crops are raised.  I think there will be potatoes enough raised very nearly to supply the demand.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-3">The sixth "great fire" occurred June 22, 1851.  Soule&acute; <HI REND="italics">et al., Annals</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-4">Dr. John Frederick Morse (1815-1874), physician, editor of the Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:, and local historian.  San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-5">Pope, <HI REND="italics">The Universal Prayer</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Many places are found in the mountains--the foothills--which can be cultivated, for the mountain streams afford the means of irrigation.  One of our company has 160 acres enclosed, and we are eating lettuce and radishes of his raising, and his potatoes are doing well.  Indian corn has a bilious look, but barley and wheat thrive well.  I think it possible to raise potatoes enough in the mountains to supply the miners.  If this is ever done, it will cut off one great item of trade below.</p><P>A general meeting of quartz miners is called to be held at Sacramento City on the 2d of July, for the purpose of agreeing on some general regulations respecting the amount of territory which a man may hold.<ANCHOR ID="n29-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: This call is not responded to by all of the quartz districts.  In some the laws are just and liberal, founded upon equity, and the utmost harmony reigns, as is the case here.  It is thought that each district can make its own laws, which will apply better to its own locality than any general law.  Here, the laws are made and allow a man to hold by preemption one hundred square feet of quartz ground, but he may purchase and hold for the purpose of running machinery, or for working actually, any number of claims within reason.  To change this law might do much injustice to those who have made improvements or who have bought claims for the purpose of working crushing mills, and as all are satisfied now, our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:people have determined to let well enough alone and not go into convention.  This community is an orderly, peaceable and quiet one.  There are seven crushing mills in operation, and many people at work.  There are many scientific, literary and well-educated gentlemen among them, and several families are located here.  We have a daily stage and mail passing through from Sacramento City to Nevada City, although a year ago a road was not opened, and the Indians were killing and driving off the whites.  And lastly, I want to tell you a true story and conclude.  Just before the great fire I was coming up here on foot; I took a cut across the mountains by a trail which led me several miles from any settlement.  Passing along a dark and deep ravine which was as still and silent as the grave, I suddenly came upon the remains of an old camp where had stood a solitary and isolated miner's tent.  In one corner I saw, partly covered with dirt, the remains of a newspaper, and prompted by curiosity I carefully uncovered it and looking at the head, saw that it read <HI REND="italics">California True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:.  Comment is unnecessary, but I <HI REND="italics">know</HI>
073.sgm: how that poor fellow felt when he was poring over its pages in that lonely spot.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-6">The miners met and on July 3 passed a resolution limiting each claim on "the lead" to three hundred feet for the claimant and 150 feet for each partner.  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:<P>A. DELANO.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>30.<LB>San Francisco, August 1, 1851.<ANCHOR ID="n30-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>WHEN THE history of California shall be written, after time has mellowed the asperities of passing events, the occurrences of the present day will form a singular but strange chapter for the perusal of the statesman and philanthropist, as well as the bookworm. In a country whose people are proverbial for their love of justice and order, where the force of early education and of public example has tended to the observance of the law for the preservation of order and the protection of those rights which belong to free citizens, a state of things exists which borders upon anarchy and threatens to dissolve the social compact of the community; in fact, they have already arrived at the point where strong individual combinations are required to protect life and property from organized bands of desperadoes and heartless men who have made the existing laws an instrument to protect them in crime and high-handed villainy.  If this state of things existed in a single town, city, or district, the evil could be corrected by the law itself, but strange to say the whole length and breadth of California is so beset with unprincipled men who set law, order and justice alike at defiance, or make use of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:first, by its technicalities, to subvert the others, that a revolution has become necessary for the protection of rights and at this moment exists in progress throughout the State. On every side is suspicion and distrust of men and authorities.  In the cities, as well as in the mountain wilds, it is unsafe for men to go unarmed, and particularly after nightfall; and even in thoroughfares in the largest towns, men are compelled to take the middle of the street, fearful that the first man they meet may be an assassin or robber with a slung shot or pistol.  For a long time this was patiently endured.  That reverence for existing law which is almost an intuitive feeling with Americans endured there, to await its action, in the hope that its just administration would rid society of its pests and excrescences; but when at length it was seen that the executive itself, if not in actual collusion with crime, pardoned it in its most glaring deformity; that criminals almost universally escaped punishment; that in more than two hundred murders in less than a year but a single legal execution had taken place in the whole State,<ANCHOR ID="n30-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: that the police force was wholly inefficient and sometimes even connected with the commission of crime; that witnesses notoriously perjured themselves to screen their companions in guilt and prove an alibi; that public officers were guilty of peculation and malfeasence; and that for the guilty to be in any event condemned to prison was only affording an easy mode to escape punishment by the insecurity of the jails and the negligence of the jailors; in short, when it was found that under the administration of the law the insecurity of life and property increased instead of diminished, the people became aroused to a sense of their own wrongs and, convinced that there was no other mode of redress, resolved to take the punishment of their aggressors into their own hands, not in opposition to law and order, but to aid the law to do what of itself it could not do, protect the honest part of the community.  Not a morning paper appeared in San Francisco that did not herald the perpetration of some robbery or murder the previous night in the city, and it was the same from the mines and different parts in the whole country.  In distant counties, goaded on to desperation by repeated acts of violence, the citizens occasionally tumultuously arose and seized the perpetrator, when the constituted authorities would interfere, generally with success, and the criminal almost invariably would escape punishment, till at length it became a byword and reproach when an arrest was made: "He will escape by the law."  Up to the present moment, although within the past year at least forty murders have been committed in San Francisco and its immediate vicinity, there has never been a legal execution.  In several glaring cases the perpetrators were admitted to merely nominal bail, without the ceremony of incarceration, and were free to continue their assaults <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:and depredations.  Incendiarism was so common that whenthe citizenlaid down at night, his papers and valuables, as well as clothes, were placed in a situation where they could be seized at a moment's warning, and the thought was constant that before daylight should appear he might be a houseless, homeless, ruined man.  These things could no longer be endured.  Self-preservation rendered it imperative that the first law of nature should be observed, and that unless some united effort was made, society must resolve itself into its primitive elements and brute force be the only defense against aggression and violence.  Every ship from the penal colonies of Great Britain only added numbers to the English convicts already here, while the vicious of all nations seemed by instinct to find a rendezvous on our shores, so that California contained hordes of the most accomplished villains who had passed through every grade of crime and were prepared to practice their infernal arts upon the honest and industrious part of the community at the moment of their arrival.  Under this state of things an association was organized in San Francisco, composed of its best and most prominent citizens, which soon swelled to a thousand, encouraged and approved by nine tenths of the whole community, who were determined to bring palpable offenders to prompt and speedy justice.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-2">Cf. p. 119.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Their first act was to take into custody a thief who was caught in the act of stealing a safe.  He was fairly tried before a jury immediately summoned, full proof of guilt was adduced, and without noise or parade he was taken to the plaza about midnight and hung on the piazza of the Adobe.<ANCHOR ID="n30-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-3">This was the Jenkins affair.  Cf. p. 118.  The "Adobe" was the Custom House on the northwest corner of Portsmouth Plaza.  Soule&acute; <HI REND="italics">et al., Annals</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The second day after, a public meeting was called at which thousands of citizens were assembled, who, with but one single dissenting voice (from a lawyer), ratified by vote the acts of the Vigilance Committee (as it was called).<ANCHOR ID="n30-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-4">At the meeting, held June 11, H. K. Clarke "almost alone" protested against the Committee's actions. San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>A second meeting took place the following day at which a series of resolutions were introduced, the object of which was to sustain the Committee in purifying the city from the pest of society and censuring the uncertain and tardy administration of justice by the officers of the law.  An attempt was made to prevent the passage of these resolutions by a prominent member of the Legislature, backed up by a gang of rowdies and gamblers whom he had rallied around him and who endeavored to interfere with the meeting by violent and unfair means.  But the resolutions passed by overwhelming acclamation.<ANCHOR ID="n30-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: --A revolution had in fact taken place.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-5">On June 12 David C. Broderick (1820-1859), President of the State Senate (later U. S. Senator from California), effectively led the opposition to the Committee, but its actions were finally endorsed the next day.  <HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:, June 13-14, 1851; "Broderick," <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:effect of instigating the Courts to renewed energy and more prompt execution of law and of justice; and when the time shall arrive that there is sufficient honesty and power in the Courts to faithfully discharge their duties in repressing crime and bring offenders to justice, they will at once resign the right of arrogating to themselves the power of punishing the guilty and leave it with those whose duty it is to protect the honest against fraud and violence.</p><P>By the indefatigable energy of the Vigilance Committee a notorious robber was arrested, and the proof was so satisfactory that he was condemned to death.  Previous to his execution, Stuart confessed his crimes,<ANCHOR ID="n30-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and brought to light what had long been suspected, that organized bands of desperadoes existed,<ANCHOR ID="n30-11">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: that certain lawyers were engaged to protect them with the chicanery of the law, and men of standing were implicated as aiders and abettors in their nefarious practices.  Upon the execution of Stuart in open day at the instance of the committee, the authorities expressed themselves as being highly indignant of what they termed an outrage (on what?--their authority?--certainly not on justice).  A grand jury was impaneled at the instance of the Judge,<ANCHOR ID="n30-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: who charged them that an awful outrage had been committed in thus hanging a man contrary to law, although the felon had confessed himself guilty of the blackest crimes, and they were directed to bring in a true bill of indictment.  The Mayor,<ANCHOR ID="n30-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: too, came out with a proclamation on the subject, but the Committee, disregarding those impotent offerings of spleen, calmly and deliberately pursued the even tenor of their way,<ANCHOR ID="n30-9">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: determined that justice <HI REND="italics">should</HI>
073.sgm: overtake the guilty.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-6">James Stuart, arrested for murder and robbery, was hanged by the Vigilance Committee on the Market Street Wharf, July 11, 1851.  Soule&acute; <HI REND="italics">et al., Annals</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-7">Justice Alexander Campbell (1820-1911) of the county court of sessions.  San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:, June 13, 1851; <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-8">Charles J. Brenham (1817-1875).  San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:, July 12, 1851; May 11, 1875; Soule&acute; <HI REND="italics">et al., Annals</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-9">Gray, <HI REND="italics">Elegy</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-11">On the 4th of July at Nevada City, a young man whom I had known many years told me that he was offered seven hundred dollars a month to steal mules, horses and cattle.  It is needless to say that he indignantly refused.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>A few days ago at Sacramento City, a young man just from the mines, named Wilson, was robbed in open daylight by four desperadoes who decoyed him to an unfrequented part of the city.  An alarm was raised, and in half an hour the robbers were in the hands of the Vigilance Committee.  The authorities interfered and promised most solemnly that they should be tried immediately without delay, and they were finally given up.  It became known the following day that the trial had been postponed four days by the interference of the lawyers, when the people assembled and in a determined manner called upon the executors of the law to redeem their promises, and told them decidedly that unless they proceeded at once with the trial, they would take the prisoners themselves.  Seeing that the people were not to be put off with promises, they then went <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:on with the examination <HI REND="italics">according to law</HI>
073.sgm:, and a week has been dragged along, during which one has been sentenced to ten years' imprisonment, two to be hung, and one remains to be tried.  The testimony is positive, as the robbery was witnessed by several individuals; yet, had not the Courts been urged on by the people, weeks would have, in all probability, been consumed; and it is not at all improbable that the villains might have escaped.<ANCHOR ID="n30-10">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-10">James Wilson was robbed of two hundred dollars on July 9, and the next day William Robinson, John Thompson, James Gibson, and Owen Cruthers were indicted.  A Vigilance Committee was organized, July 11.  A jury convicted Robinson, July 15.  Robinson, Gibson, and Thompson were sentenced to death, July 20.  All three were hanged, August 22.  Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:<P>And such is the present condition of California.  With a beautiful climate, abounding in the elements of wealth and of comfort, it is on the verge of anarchy from the imbecility of its rulers; and were it not for the stern determination of the honest part of community to rid the country of its hideous excrescences, it would soon resolve into the primitive condition of society when justice and protection could only be given by the power of the sword and the will of the strong.  You will think the picture too highly drawn.  You will think I am excited.  On the contrary, I am of a dispassionate temperament, and the portrait may be judged by every public account which you receive through the press, as well as at the hands of returning Californians.</p><P>Yours,</p><P>A. D.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>31.<LB>Sacramento City, August, 6, 1851.<ANCHOR ID="n31-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN: I find my time so much occupied that I shall be unable to continue my correspondence with your paper and of course must relinquish all claim on you for sending your paper either to me or to my friends on my account.--Since the fire of the 4th of May,<ANCHOR ID="n31-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I have been, like thousands of others, a gentleman loafer, living on the glories which were left after the fire had done its worst and thinking what I would do if I was a <HI REND="italics">respectable</HI>
073.sgm: man--that is, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:if I had money.  As a man's merit is chiefly measured by the fullness of his purse, my claim to the high consideration of my countrymen is only moderate; but I console myself with the pleasing reflection that I care but devilish little about it.  I have just read two numbers of the <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm: and a letter written by Mr. Gum to Mr. Keefer, by which I see that you are blessed with floods, scarcity of money, office seekers, and high life below stairs<ANCHOR ID="n31-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: in various ways.  The conclusion that we come to here is that no man knows anything unless he has been to California, for we are about fifty years ahead in knowledge to you poor deluded mortals at home.  When we see you chaffering and higgling about a few cents in county operations or a half a cent in the price of coal, it looks mighty small, and the conclusion we come to is that you are a picayune people.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31-1"><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31-2">At San Francisco.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31-3">Cf.  <HI REND="italics">High Life Below Stairs</HI>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:trouble to dress and undress.--Pshaw! what's the use of dictating to women what dress they shall wear?  They'd do as they please anyhow.  I intend to let all my wives take their own way and thereby save myself a hatchelling.</p><P>Murder, robberies and gambling is on the wane.  The glorious Vigilance Committees are teaching the courts their duty, and order is coming out of chaos and confusion.</p><P>Had Milton lived now he would have placed the scene of the grand combat in California; at all events his devils would have found plenty of ammunition here.</p><P>There is no suffering on the plains this year so far.  But '49 and '50 will afford a thrilling theme for some future historian.  Saw Keefer just now--he is doing well, and I am glad of it.  He is an energetic, industrious man, and has the milk of human kindness in his veins.  I saw Pete Hoes at Grass Valley last week--is doing nothing, and probably will not.<ANCHOR ID="n31-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I haven't got to drinking, stealing or gambling yet, but expect to commence in a day or two.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31-4">Peter Hoes, of Ottawa.  He was reported to have been in San Francisco in September, 1849.  <HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:<P>There is lots of news, but the papers have it all, and letter-writers are getting below par.--Money is scarce and taters is fell.<ANCHOR ID="n31-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31-5">Le., fallen in price.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Yours, &amp;c.,</p><P>A. DELANO.</p><illus entity="a073-0019" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
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073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>32.<LB>Grass Valley, August 30, 1851.<ANCHOR ID="n32-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>ONCE more a miner--once more a delver in earth in search of its hidden treasures.  Speculation, merchandise, literary efforts, idling and the various employments which men are <HI REND="italics">forced</HI>
073.sgm: into in this unparalleled country, unparalleled for good and evil, have again settled into primitive operations, and I am again a mountaineer, my castle a cabin, my frills a red shirt, my hope in the mines, and my heart with my family beyond the Missouri.  But gracious heaven! what a change two years has produced.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n32-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm: You would little dream that that modest, quiet man, standing by that puffing, stamping, noisy crushing mill, without a particle of ostentation in his manner, dressed in a plain, coarse, drab corduroy dreadnought coat and pants, with high coarse leather boots reaching above his knees, his head covered with a broadbrim California hat and his somewhat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:prominent nose bridging a pair of spectacles, was the artist who illustrated the admirable works of Stephens' <HI REND="italics">Petraea</HI>
073.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Yucatan</HI>
073.sgm:, with drawings taken on the spot.<ANCHOR ID="n32-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: It is even he, and if you would make him blush, why speak to him of his works?  He has too much modesty to intrude himself on your notice, but if you will draw him out you will find him a gentleman as well as an artist, and he is the president of his company and one of the proprietors of the mill.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n32-2">(1799-1856).  A native of England, Catherwoodwas also a railroad promoter.  He came to San Francisco in 1849, took an active interest in a Panama railroad, and was now associated with the Benicia-Marysville railroad survey.  He returned to England in 1852 and was lost on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
073.sgm:, never heard of after leaving Liverpool for New York in 1856.  Frederick Boase, <HI REND="italics">Modern English Biography</HI>
073.sgm: (3 vols., London, 1892-1901), I, 571; Victor W. Von Hagen, <HI REND="italics">Frederick Catherwood, Archt</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n32-3"> Lloyd Stephens (1805-1852).  Known as "the American traveler," he wrote <HI REND="italics">Incidents of Travel in Egypt, Arabia, Petraea, and the Holy Land</HI>
073.sgm: (2 vols., New York, 1838); <HI REND="italics">Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan</HI>
073.sgm: (2 vols., New York, 1841), with sixty-five plates by Catherwood; and <HI REND="italics">Incidents of Travel in Yucatan</HI>
073.sgm: (2 vols., New York, 1843).  Stephens was also a steamship and railroad executive, associated with a transatlantic line, the Hudson River Railroad, and the Panama Railroad; he went with Catherwood to South America in 1839 on a confidential mission for President Van Buren.  <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:<P>A year ago there were no inhabitants here.--Occasionally a solitary miner might be seen resting his weary limbs in the shade of a magnificent pine, or while prospecting under the weight of his blankets, mining tools and transient supply of pork and hard bread, keeping a cautious watch with his hand on his trusty rifle to guard against surprise, not knowing but in another instant an arrow from the bow of some lurking treacherous savage might terminate his toil and earthly career at one and the same moment.  Now in this immediate vicinity there are probably two thousand men at work, with all the comforts of life within their reach, and the only danger is from the robber and midnight assassin, and these are now held in check.  Families are coming in, and although female influence is but little felt, still the germ is laid, and the lower mines will soon present that feature in the happiness of isolated man.</p><P>I must confess, however, that my former ideas of the purity and stern morality of the opposite sex have been somewhat lowered--perhaps my ideas have been too exalted--but it too often happens here that females who have borne unexceptionable characters at home adopt the code of morals of the country and instead of endeavoring to stem the current, float along with it.  I am no casuist and will not seek for the cause.  This sentiment may draw down upon me the frowns of my fair countrywomen at home, but I can't help it, and as I am no candidate for even a place in their affections, I shall take the world as I find it and ask no favors.</p><P>Near us is an Indian ranch filled with dirty, squalid, disgusting savages, but as I have given you a picture of Indian life, I will not advert to it now.  They are peaceable and quiet, and their chief is friendly to the whites.  The nights are getting cold, and my blankets are scarcely sufficient to keep me warm, but the days are hot.</p><P>A. D.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>33.<LB>Grass Valley, September 29, 1851.<ANCHOR ID="n33-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>SCIENCE is progressive.  The wonderful development of the power of steam by Fulton was only the prelude to vast and material improvement, until it has at length reached the perfection exhibited at the present day.  It is so in mechanics--it is the same in astronomy, in geology; it will be so in mining and its <HI REND="italics">modus operandi</HI>
073.sgm:.  On the first discovery of gold in the placers of California, the first mode of washing was by the pan; then a rough rocker was substituted, which was subsequently much improved, and quicksilver introduced.  This was succeeded by the Long Tom and then by the sluice, by which it was found that dirt which would not pay by the pan or rocker yielded a handsome profit, and ground which had been passed over as worthless was found to contain gold in such quantities that fortunes were made.  When the first quartz veins were worked the specimens, or those pieces in which gold was visible only, were saved, and these were pounded out by hand, until by repeated experiments and the introduction of machinery it was found that much of the rock which had been discarded was really rich and contained gold enough to make its extraction a profitable labor.  Another discovery followed, that the dirt in immediate proximity with, and in which the quartz was imbedded, was rich, often richer than the quartz itself, and it was not until many tons had been thrown away or mixed up with valueless dirt that this fact became known, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:now, on visiting a mine, you will see its pile of quartz on one side and its pay dirt, as it is termed, on the other.  The first mill erected here was a small one, by water power, which proved a failure.  This proceeded from the want of a proper application of the power.  The next was a twelve-horsepower steam engine, which was abandoned or sold out by the company, after involving them in debt.  Another steam mill of the same power was put into operation and by being properly constructed and prudently managed, was successful, and this company became the purchasers of the first steam mill, and after spending money enough to get it into the right condition and making such improvements in the mode of saving gold as were suggested by their experiments, this mill was made effective.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n33-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
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073.sgm:or have written has been according to the best information I could obtain at the time.  Since my first communication on quartz mining, I have acquired more particular knowledge.  It still continues to excite a lively interest in our State.  Among other distinguished visitors to Grass Valley, General Atocha,<ANCHOR ID="n33-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: of whom you are cognizant, has made a tour of observation, and it gave me pleasure to afford him all the knowledge I possessed of mines and mining. I found him an intelligent and agreeable gentleman, with enlarged views and a mind capable of formingand carrying out great designs, and I have spent no time more agreeably in California than the two evenings and one day that we were together.  I sincerely hope that the result of his investigations may prove profitable both to himself and Mexico.  Ex-Governor Blanshard, of Vancouver Island,<ANCHOR ID="n33-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and Captain Fanshawe, of the British Navy,<ANCHOR ID="n33-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: were here at the same time, and all seemed delighted with their visit.  It is a pleasure to meet gentlemen of any nation.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n33-2">Colonel A. J. Atocha was the personal representative of General Antonio Lo&acute;pez de Santa Anna in the U. S., 1846-1848.  Wilfrid H. Callcott, <HI REND="italics">Santa Anna</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n33-3">Richard Blanshard, first governor of Vancouver, left the island August 27, 1851, to return to England. Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of British Columbia</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n33-4"> Edward G. Fanshawe (1814-1906), captain, Royal Navy, 1845; rear admiral, 1863; lord of the admiralty, 1865; vice admiral, 1871; K. C. B., 1881.  <HI REND="italics">Dictionary of National Biography, Second Supplement</HI>
073.sgm:<P>The Sierra Nevada Quartz Mining Company, of which I have spoken in a former communication, have sold out their mine to Dr. J. Delavan, the agent of the Rocky Bar Company,<ANCHOR ID="n33-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and he is erecting machinery and driving ahead with characteristic Yankee energy.--Some of the mills have taken out eight hundred to a thousand dollars per day, though this must always vary according to the quality of the rock and other circumstances; some days more, somedays less.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n33-5">Dr. James Delavan. Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
073.sgm:, November 24, 1849.  The Rocky Bar Company was "memorable as the first of its class to mine on a large scale in the pockets of Eastern investors." <HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
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073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>34.<LB> Shasta City, October 20, 1851.<ANCHOR ID="n34-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>THE AIR was bracing but not cold when at sunrise on the morning of the 4th, I took a seat with the driver on the box of the stage for Shasta City, whose local is among the foothills and at the very southern base of that rugged broken range of mountains which stretch from the extreme northern end of the Valley of the Sacramento through to Oregon, and thence in wild and solemn grandeur through the British and Russian possessions in North America, and interrupted only by the narrow Strait of Behring into Asia.  Crossing the Sacramento as we left town, we were soon gaily rolling over the bosom of the broad Valley, with the bold dark outline of the Coast Range looming up on the west, and on the east the Sierra Nevada with its broad foothills seemed gradually to rise till at a great distance it blended with the sky like sombre clouds without indicating its own extreme altitude, still presenting a prominent and vivid component part in the charming view.  Occasionally we were driving along the banks of the river through groves of evergreen oak and then launching out into a tule swamp miles in length, overflowed by the river in flood seasons, making a large lake, when about eleven o'clock we reached the city of Fremont, our first change. <ANCHOR ID="n34-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: This important town is situated near the confluence of Rio de las Plumas (Feather River) with the Sacramento, and stands an example of the speculative <HI REND="italics">energy</HI>
073.sgm: of the Californians of '49.  Like every other town on a navigable stream it is at the head of navigation, though steamboats do run an hundred miles above.  It contains about forty houses, twelve of which are occupied by families; the others are to rent on easy terms to any who would like a quiet nook far from the noise and bustle of the city.  In the fall and winter of '49 it possessed extensive water privileges, for during the overflow the communications between the houses was by means of boats, and an acquaintance of mine who was the wealthy proprietor of eight hundreds lots in the city assured me the fishing on them was excellent.  For any person desirous of making a <HI REND="italics">permanent</HI>
073.sgm: investment an excellent opportunity is offered here.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-2">A town across the Sacramento River from Verona (formerly Vernon).  Fremont was founded in 1849 and abandoned not long after Delano's visit.  H. E. and E. G. Rensch and Mildred B. Hoover, <HI REND="italics">Historic Spots in California: Valley and Sierra Counties</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Leaving Fremont with its reminiscences, we drove along the Sacramento for a few miles, when our road launched out upon the plain, where for fifty miles there was no water, only in wells dug at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:intervals of eighteen to twenty miles, and where much of the way the tules and vegetable mould indicated submersion in flood season, making it by no means a desirable location for the biped creation.  The plain was dotted with large herds of elk, antelope, and deer which in seeming security scarcely moved beyond gunshot from us,barely raising their heads with curiosity as we passed, as if to enquire what the devil we were doing on their stamping ground, while we on our part were smacking our lips with the poetic thought of a broiled steak from their haunches.  About sixty miles above Sacramento City, between the Sacramento and Feather rivers and about midway of the plain, rises a strange, queer, isolated old mountaincalled the Buttes,<ANCHOR ID="n34-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: that looks as if it had been one of the hills which the fallen angels had used for ammunition in Milton's <HI REND="italics">Paradise Lost</HI>
073.sgm:.  There it stands, where the Valley is twenty miles wide on either side, lifting its bare, craggy, misshapen, undescribable brown peaks two thousand feet towardsheaven, baring its rough brows to the elements, its furrowed and rent sides attesting the power of time and might of the Almighty, and a beacon to the bewildered traveler on the plain.  It is one of the strange things of California which defies my power of description, and the only way I can get at it is to leave a blank thus, and let you fill it with an artist's pencil to suit your own imagining.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-3">Sutter Buttes, Colusa County.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>As the sun disappeared behind the dark hills of the Coast Range, his rays still shone brightly on the high crest of the Buttes, and it seemed as if twilight was approaching before the old mountain gave up the contest for light and fairly bade us good night.  A little after dark we were sitting down to a glorious supper at the city of Colusa, a thriving capital of just twelve houses, beautifully situated on the west bank of the river and of course at the head of navigation--that is, for steamboats that don't run higher.  Adjoining the town is a large village of Indians.<ANCHOR ID="n34-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: I was strolling along the river by starlight after having discussed a savory elk steak, when I was startled by an unearthly yell, a sound of lamentation from the direction of the Indian village.  Curious to know the cause of this sudden outcry, I bent my steps in that direction. Before every lodge were seated several women and children who were piteously lamenting with tears of grief coursing down their cheeks, while in groups the men sat silent or talking in subdued tones, and I never saw a whole community who seemed more grief-stricken than these untutored and naked savages.  An old warrior replied to my enquiry by informing me that five of their men had accompanied a gentleman of Colusa  to the mines to dig for gold. Four of them had set out on their return <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:alone, when they were assaulted by the mountain Indians and two of them killed; the others, making their escape, had just arrived with the sad intelligence.  With them it was a national calamity and their grief was as sincere as it was touching.  And death was rife among them.  Supported in the arms of three or four squaws a woman was dying.  The death rattle was in her throat, and before morning she too was numbered with the dead.  All night long the wailings were continued, and as we left early the following morning we observed a large circle of squaws dancing a slow and measured tread around the body of their departed sister.  May the Great Spirit be propitiated and the soul of the poor savage be made happy accordingto its capacity.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-4">Wintun Indians.  Kroeber, <HI REND="italics">Handbook of the Indians of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Our nearest approach to the Coast Range was probably not nearer than fifteen miles.  We could see that a range of lesser but rugged hills extended along the base of the main range with apparently a valley between them, but from this the mountains seemed to rise in broken and abrupt masses to a great height, more like the Sierra, from the desert on the eastern side of the snowy mountains.  They appear too broken to admit of a wagon road, and only here and there show signs of vegetation, but up to this time it is a sealed and mysterious country opening a new field of enterprise and of toil to some future explorer.  All I could learn was that a party of men had once attempted to make explorations. Teh mountains.  They were gone from home six days, had ascertained that gold existed in the hills, that there were fine valleys with beautiful streams flowing through them and an abundance of magnificent pines, but that the country was inhabited by bold and warlike tribes who were hostile and treacherous and that an ingress among those lofty hills was attended with difficulty and danger.<ANCHOR ID="n34-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: But the time will soon come when the attention of the indomitable Yankee will be diverted from the eastern mountains towards the West, and then the tales of suffering, of toil and blood, of savage warfare and Christian cupidity, will find a locale in the broad, broken belt between the Pacific Ocean and the Valley of the Sacramento.  As we approached the termination of the Valley towards the close of the third day, the ground became more uneven, and near Red Bluff we entered the foothills which were the stepping stones to the united ranges of the Coast and Sierra Nevada mountains.  On the left were the lofty, rugged peaks of the Coast, before us the Trinity and Sacramentomountains stood out in bold relief, and on the east and north the Sierra was surmounted by the snow-clad points of Lawson's Peak and Shasta Butte, the latter rising like a white cloud an hundred and twenty miles distant, attaining the immense altitude of thirteen thousand feet.<ANCHOR ID="n34-6">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: The road <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:became more broken, the hills higher, till at dark we arrived at Shasta City, the extreme point attainable by wagons in this direction in the mountains.  Beyond this, mules alone can thread the narrow and intricate passes of the hills, and the constant arrival and departure of large pack trains with supplies for thousands of miners in that isolated country gave the town an appearance of life and bustle quite unexpected.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-5">The Lassik Indians inhabited Mendocino County.  <HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-6">Mount Shasta is actually 14,161 feet high.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>Here the stores were well filled with merchandise, the hotels afforded comfortable quarters and their tables were loaded with not only the comforts but the luxuries of California, and the dream of hardship  is only to be realized in the mountain country beyond.  From this point northward it is necessary to go with some show of force and to keep a constant guard at night to prevent attacks from the Indians, and during the day it is not safe to leave the train even for a short distance.  Yet an hundred and fifty miles north of Shasta City is a rich valley, thirty to fifty miles long by three to five wide, taking its name from the gigantic Butte at its head and affording a local habitation, even in this distant and isolated region, for another town of five hundred houses, called Shasta Butte City.<ANCHOR ID="n34-7">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: Would you believe it that such a town exists in this remote region?  It is even so.  Supplies are brought by mules from the south, while on the north a very feasible wagon road is opened to Oregon City, from whence supplies are also drawn; so that a communication is now open through the wildest imaginable country from California to Oregon.  The geography of the Cascade Mountains is no longer a mystery, and the rivers are explored, rich valleys are found, and their cultivation already begun.  The northern Indians are a larger, more intelligent and more warlike race than those of California.  They wear clothes and live in log or wood dwellings and are very ingenious in many articles of domestic manufacture, while a portion of their country is valuable for agricultural purposes.<ANCHOR ID="n34-8">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-7">New Yreka.  Gudde, California Place Names.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-8">Battles between the whites on the one hand and the Shasta, Pit River, Rogue River, and Modoc Indians on the other were fought from 1851 on, culminating in the bloody Modoc War of 1873, which cost the lives of eighty-one whites and uncounted Indians.  After this the Indians remained on reservations assigned to them.  Caughey, <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>In the neighborhood of Shasta I observed vast quantities of auriferous quartz, more than can be exhausted in hundreds of years, and I also saw many specimens which were brought in from Shasta Butte City, from Scott and Trinity rivers and their affluents, indeed in all directions, north and eastward, for an hundred miles or more.  The imagination can scarcely stop at estimating the amount of mineral wealth still existing undistrubed in its matrix in the northern mountains; yet, while it is there, men will not stop to calculate the expense, the difficulty and hazard of life in obtaining it.</p><P>A. D.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>35.<LB>Parkman, Ohio, June, 1852.<ANCHOR ID="n35-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>EDS.  <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: --My last communication was from Grass Valley, California, dated, I think, in February.  I do not know whether it reached you or not, but it was my last from the land of gold.<ANCHOR ID="n35-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: On my arrival at home, I became fully aware of the vastness of the throng which is hurrying on to distress, to misery, and immense suffering by a headlong journey across the plains.  If a true representation of the condition of California would have any effect in preventing individual suffering, the readers of the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm: would be benefited, for your columns have set forth these things in their proper light always, and to me it seems strange that people should become so infatuated as to rush into dangers with eyes wide open.  California is indeed a great country, with a beautiful climate and fertile soil, and in this last particular I have been compelled to change my early opinion.<ANCHOR ID="n35-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: And gold is there in such quantities that I do not believe that the labor of a century can exhaust it.  But because such is the fact, do not let any man say, "If it is there, I can get it."  There are difficulties in the way which are insuperable.  There are just as smart men there who are as industrious, as energetic and prudent, as the best who are now on their way.  Three years' experience <HI REND="italics">proves</HI>
073.sgm: that where one of these energetic men is successful, hundreds are scarcely making a living.  From the commencement to the present moment the continual cry of "new discoveries--rich diggings," has been brought to the public eye, and how many have been successful?  Not one tenth part of those engaged in mining, and those are mostly of that class of men whose nerves and sinews are braced to stand the severe labor by practice from childhood.  Thousands of those who cannot endure the labor of the mines, or who have been unsuccessful, have returned to the Valley and are exercising the various trades and professions to which they were accustomed at home, so that every trade is overrepresented, and profits are cut down to a living business--in many instances scarcely affording that--and before I left, hundreds were unable to obtain employment for their board.  And when you add fifty thousand souls to those already there, the number of helpless ones will increase rather than diminish.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n35-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, June 23, 1852. The editor writes: "The following interesting letter from a gentleman whose former contributions to the columns of the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n35-2">Apparently it was not received.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n35-3">Cf. p. 21.</NOTE>
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073.sgm:<P>There may be five thousand farms opened in California this season, perhaps more, and next year double that number.  Farming at this moment is profitable, but will it continue so to the end of time?  When I first went there, all our vegetables were brought from the Sandwich Islands, Australia, and Oregon, and a small part from Spanish America, and the prices were exorbitant.</p><P>Now California raises her own vegetables, or nearly so, and in such abundance that prices have fallen almost immeasurably.  For instance, in 1849-50 potatoes sold in San Francisco from twenty to thirty cents per pound.  These were brought from abroad.  Now they are sold, of a superior quality and raised at home, at from three to five cents.  Importation has virtually ceased.  Flour is still imported, but in one year California will raise wheat enough for home consumption; in two there will be a surplus, and with no outlet prices must fall so much as to reduce farming to a mere living profit.  The soil of California is capable of producing a greater amount than that of our Western prairies even.  Sixty and eighty bushels of wheat to the acre is common.  I have many statistical items in my possession attesting its agricultural capacities, and you know my early opinion was at antipodes with this.  Now all this in political economy is well, and speaks well for the capacity of the State; but when we reflect that beyond home consumption the market will be limited, the natural inference is that farming in a short time will be no more profitable than other kinds of business.  And those who cannot work cannot live.  The immense emigration of this year<ANCHOR ID="n35-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: will probably keep the prices of provisions up for the season.  They may, in fact, advance, while the price of labor will decline and thousands seek employment as they do now, in vain; but at the moment there is a surplus, which will be within the next two years, there will be no sale.  The only business that I know of now that is not being overdone is lumbering.  The mountains are accessible for wagons and railroads and can furnish the lumber which is now imported, and will do so as soon as the prices of labor and hauling are sufficiently reduced to compete with importing prices.  The country is large enough and productive enough to support a dense population, and individual suffering would be less if it was filled up by degrees; but one great difficulty is, too many are rushing in at once before the way is sufficiently prepared for them.  Now a limited number can cross the plains safely and with comfort if properly provided, but this year there are too many going at once.  In addition to the stock actually required to draw the wagons on the road, a large number of cattle are being driven for market.  They will generally reach the Rocky Mountains in safety--that is, there will be grass enough to sustain the cattle.  But immediately on going through the South Pass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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073.sgm:the desert country commences, grass will be difficult to obtain and, I believe, impossible for so great a number.  The consequence will be that the cattle of emigrant trains will die, and families will have a <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
073.sgm: shipwreck, hundreds of miles from human aid.  If they have money to duplicate their teams from droves, they may be partially relieved; but very many will not be able to pay the California prices which will be asked, and they will be left to get along the best way they can, which will be on foot, or die.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n35-4">The climax of the Gold Rush may dated 1852, when more than 100,000 went to California.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
073.sgm:<P>We shall probably receive as heart-rending accounts of the sufferings of the present emigration across the plains as any which have preceded it.  After the emigration of 1850, such was the waste of property on the road that travelers from Salt Lake or between trading posts in the region, where there was little or no wood, were scarcely troubled a single night to collect fuel to cook with, for the wagons abandoned and the furniture, handles of picks, shovels, axes, &amp;c., &amp;c., furnished them an abundant supply, and this will probably be the case after the present emigration has passed.</p><P>I had intended to have spoken of the Nicaragua route in this communication, but it is already long enough.  With my experience in crossing the plains I would rather take a family to California by the land route, provided the emigration <HI REND="italics">did not exceed ten thousand</HI>
073.sgm:, than through Central America, with the present facilities of traveling up the San Juan River and to San Juan del Sur.  As it is, I would not risk their lives this year, either way.</p><P>A.D--.</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>36.<LB>Parkman, Ohio, August 1, 1852.<ANCHOR ID="n36-1">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:<P>THE IMMENSE resources of California, as yet only partially developed, afford to the political economist and to business men a fruitful theme of contemplation.  Although there is now much individual suffering and misfortune, the elements of prosperity are at work which, in an unparalleled short period in the history of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:nations, must place it among the most prominent States of the Union for wealth and extensive business operations.  With a most prolific soil, a genial climate, with vast mineral wealth, the genius of the people only requires the fostering protection of a liberal government to develop these resources, and where public effort fails in many instances to carry out important ends, individual associations will not be wanting for their consummation.  In a country so new as California, having so vast a field for varied enterprise, Government cannot at once effect all the facilities necessary for the transaction of the immense business carried on by its citizens; and the commercial world, but for individual association, would labor under immense disadvantages.  The transmission of dust and coin from one extreme point to another, from the most distant mines over almost impracticable mountain roads to the Atlantic States, would be next to impossible, with certainty, by any Government provision.  The merchant at home or in the cities along the Pacific seaboard might look in vain for remittances if dependent on Post Offices, and at isolated points the poor, toil-worn miner would live for months without the gratification of hearing from home or of sending a portion of his hard-earned gains to those who are dearer to his memory than life, were it not for the express companies which individual enterprise has established.  These, in fact, have grown out of the necessity of the case, and by system, energy, and perseverance have grown into an important link in the great chain of commercial enterprise.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36-1"><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, August 12, 1852.  The superscription is a glowing valedictory, but no more than Delano deserved: "We have pleasure in publishing the following letter from one of the ablest correspondents it was our good fortune to secure in California in the early days of the gold discoveries.  The writer, Mr. A. Delano, left Ohio [actually Illinois] among the first of the bold adventurers to the shores of the Pacific, and passed through the perilous trials which then beset those who heroically braved the dangers of flood and field in their exciting explorations.  His letters to this paper were graphic, truthful, eloquent and patriotic, overflowing with generous sentiment and the spirit of manly independence so characteristic of the sons of the glorious West.  Should he again return to California--and who that has once been there can long remain away?--we hope to hear from him frequently, as of yore, and shall always cheerfully and gladly give him a conspicuous place in the columns of the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<P>At first established for the speedy transmission of letters, money, and small packages from one important town to another along the principal roads and thoroughfares of the Atlantic States, by degrees they have spread, like the veins of the human system from the principal arteries, not only over the body corporate of our own country, but their fibres reach Europe, Asia--in fact, the whole civilized globe; and no country has felt their vivifying influence more than California.  These connected links reach every mountain and dell where civilized man finds an abiding place.  Almost every bar and diggings beyond the reach of mail arrangements has its connecting express line, and the glistening eye of the sunburnt miner, as through them he receives the missive of love from home, attests the estimation in which they are held in California.  But for them, how many hearts would be sad--how many hopes disappointed!</p><P>Why, I myself had toiled a year, suffering all that human nature could endure on the plains and in the mines, without hearing a single word from my family, and although they had written monthly by the mail, the first letter I received to tell me they were still alive was delivered into my hands by a mountain express.<ANCHOR ID="n36-2">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: To Californians and those connected with them, this is a matter of infinite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:importance, and a grand consideration is that of responsibility.  No man likes to trust valuable packages to irresponsible hands, and it is a matter of public congratulation that companies of undoubted means, as well as of indomitable energy, are in existence.  Livingston and Wells<ANCHOR ID="n36-3">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: are known among the successful pioneers of expresses, and I see by the public papers that they are extending their operations by association to California, under the name of Wells, Fargo and Company.  These veterans of the Express are too well known for comment.  Some of those connected with them I have known from childhood,<ANCHOR ID="n36-4">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm: and I speak understandingly when I say that more energetic, faithful, and perfectly responsible men do not exist in any express company than these.  They have commenced their California Express with an actual capital of three hundred thousand dollars, have contracted for the transmission of parcels with the U. S. Mail steamers, thus avoiding the possibility of delay, and they send a trusty messenger with every ship.  Their arrangements for crossing the Isthmus are such that speed and certainty are assured, and drafts drawn by them are honored as surely as those of any bank in the Union.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36-2">Cf. p. 42.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36-3">Johnston Livingston was associated with Henry Wells in an express business in New York State, 1845-1854, before the formation of Wells, Fargo and Company.  Henry Wells, <HI REND="italics">Sketch of the Rise, Progress, and Present Condition of the Express System</HI>
073.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36-4">Cf. p. 64.</NOTE>
073.sgm:<P>The ramifications of their express will extend to every mining district in California, as it does now to nearly every town in the Atlantic States; and the estimation in which they are held on the Atlantic will insure their success on the Pacific side of the continent.  As an old miner, knowing the wants and feelings of that busy class of our California community, I most humbly wish them success.  I sail on the 5th for San Francisco, and you will hear from the again as usual, from time to time.<ANCHOR ID="n36-5">*</ANCHOR>
073.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36-5">But this apparently was the last Delano letter published in the <HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:<P>Yours,</p><P>A. DELANO</p><illus entity="a073-0022" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
073.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>Index</HEAD>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<P>Acapulco, Mexico, 64<LB><HI REND="italics">Across the Plains and Among the Diggings</HI>
073.sgm: (orginially <LB><HI REND="italics">Life on the Plains and Among the Diggings</HI>
073.sgm: ), xi-xiii, xv-xvii, xxiii, 1-2, 4, 9, 12, 16, 19, 22-23, 25-26, 31, 38, 42-43, 62, 64, 74-75, 106, 119<LB>Admission Day, 86-87, 93<LB>Albion, Michigan, 89<LB><HI REND="italics">Alciope</HI>
073.sgm:, a ship, 71<LB>Allgeier, Nicolaus, 44<LB>Allingham, John T., 100<LB>American River, 55, 132<LB>Amsterdam, 42<LB>Angle and Company, 74<LB>Angle, Dr. M. B., xiv, 74<LB><HI REND="italics">Appletons' Cyclopaedia of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:, 27<LB>Armstrong family, 68<LB>Asheville, North Carolina, 20<LB>Ashley, William H., 75<LB>Asia, 29, 56, 138, 145<LB>Atocha, General A. J., xxi, 137<LB>Auburn, California, 120<LB>Auburn, New York, xxx<LB>Aurora, New York, xi, xxi-xxii, xxiv, 16, 64, 142<LB>Australia, 81-82, 106, 118-119, 125-126, 143<LB>Bacon, James, 43, 69<LB>Baker, Captain, 7<LB>Baldwin, Elmer, 42<LB>Bancroft, Hubert H., xxiv, 16, 20, 47, 55, 66, 71, 75, 104, 108, 119, 137, 143<LB>Barry, Captain John, xix, 103-104<LB>Bean, Edwin F., xxiv<LB>Bear Creek, 43-44<LB>Beardstown, Illinois, 2<LB>Bear River, 55, 71, 113, 131<LB>Bear Springs, Idaho, 65<LB>Beckwourth (or "Beckwith"), James P., xvi, 75-77<LB>Beckwourth Pass, xvi, 75<LB>Bedford Company, 86<LB>Behring Strait, 138<LB>Benicia, 36, 132<LB>Bensley, John, 42<LB>Benson, Ivan, 102<LB>Benton City, 16<LB>Benton, Senator Thomas H., 16<LB>Bible, 35, 39, 42, 105, 111-112<LB>Bidwell Bar, xv, 22, 32, 40, 77<LB>Bidwell, John, 32<LB>Billinghurst, Mr., 34, 85<LB>"Black Bart" (Charles C. Bolton), 2<LB>Blackfeet Indians, 75-77<LB>Black Hills, 75<LB>Blanshard, Richard, xxi, 137<LB>Boase, Frederick, 132<LB>Bolton, Charles C. ("Black Bart"), 2<LB>Boonville, Missouri, 6<LB>Boonville (Missouri) <LB><HI REND="italics">Observer</HI>
073.sgm:, 70<LB>Boston, 71, 103, 107<LB>Brenham, Charles J., 127<LB>Broderick, David C., 125<LB>Brown, Mr., of Chicago, 85<LB>Brown, Robert, xii, 4, 6, 32, 69, 100<LB>Bryant, Edwin, 27, 31, 37, 41, 54, 85, 109<LB>Buchanan County, Missouri, 8<LB>Burch, Charles H., 55<LB>Burns, Robert, xii, 42, 59, 62, 67<LB>Butte County, 82<LB>Byron, 42<LB>Calaveras County, 2<LB><HI REND="italics">California Farmer</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiv<LB>Callcott, Wilfrid H., 137<LB>Campbell, Alexander, 127<LB>Campbell, Thomas, 1, 13<LB>Canton, 44, 48<LB>Cape Horn, 25, 44<LB>Cascade Mountains, 21, 29, 68, 120, 140-141<LB><HI REND="italics">Catalogue of the Officers and Alumni of Washington and Lee University</HI>
073.sgm:, 19<LB>Catherwood, Frederick W., xxi, 132-133<LB>Caton, John D., 46, 51-52, 92<LB>Caton, Laura A. S., 52<LB>Caughey, John W., 7, 141<LB>Central America, xxii, xxiv, 25, 36, 44, 65, 132-133, 143, 144, 146<LB><HI REND="italics">Central Pacific, The</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiv<LB>Chagres, Panama, 36<LB>Chamisso, Adelbert von, 10<LB>Chapultepec, Mexico, 46<LB>Charleston, Maine, 82<LB>Chautauqua, New York, 32<LB>Chicago, 34, 57, 82, 85<LB>Chico, 47, 75<LB>Chile, 49, 115, 136 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<LB>China, 48-49, 63, 109<LB>Chinese, xix, 109-110<LB>Chipman, 31<LB>Clarke, H. K. W., 125<LB>Clear Creek, 47<LB>Cleland, Robert G., 93<LB>Clemens, Samuel L., 102<LB>Coast Range, 27, 56, 138-140<LB>College of the Pacific, 74<LB>Columbia College, 42<LB>Colusa, xxi, 139-140<LB>Colusa County, 139<LB>Conaway, Mary V., xi<LB>Concord, New Hampshire, 9<LB><HI REND="italics">Constance</HI>
073.sgm:, a ship, xix, 103-104<LB>Cornyn, John H., 2<LB>Council Bluffs, Iowa, 8<LB>Crow Indians, 75, 77<LB>Cruthers, Owen, 128<LB>Crystal Palace, London, 115<LB>Cutting, Mr., 18<LB>Dane, G. Ezra, xi, xviii, xxv<LB>Davis, M. G., 36, 142<LB>Davis, Peter L., 20, 47<LB>Dawly, Mr., 37, 46, 79<LB>Dawlytown, xv, 22, 36, 38-40, 42, 53, 61, 77, 79<LB>Dayton, Illinois, xii, xiv, 7, 9, 13-14, 43<LB>Dayton, Ohio, 3<LB>Dean, Edwin F., xxxiv<LB>Deer Creek, 16, 20, 113, 131<LB>Delano, Alonzo ("Old Block")--pronunciation of surname, xi-xii<LB>appearance, xi<LB>birth and family, xi<LB>early career and marriage, xi<LB>voyage to St. Joseph, Missouri, xii-xiii<LB>overland journey, xiii-xiv, 12-27<LB>in the upper diggings, xiv-xxv, 22-98, 111-116, 120-123, 131-137<LB>at Sacramento and San Francisco, xviii-xxi, 99-112, 117-120, 123-130<LB>Shasta City, xxi, 138-141<LB>Nicaragua and New York, xxi-xxii, xxiv<LB>Ohio, xxii, 142, 145<LB>publications, xiii, xxiii-xxiv<LB>second marriage and death, xxv<LB>Delano, Austin, 64<LB>Delano, Columbus, xi<LB>Delano, Fred, xi-xii, xix-xxi, xxiv, 16, 22, 46, 105, 109, 117, 131<LB>Delano, Dr. Frederick, xi, 64, 67<LB>Delano, Harriet, xi-xii, xix-xxi, xxiv-xxv, 16, 22, 46, 64, 105, 109, 117, 131<LB>Delano, Hariett, 64<LB>Delano, Joanna Doty, xi, 64<LB>Delano, Joel A., xi, 64, 67<LB>Delano, Maria Harmon, xxiv-xxv<LB>Delano, Mary Burt, xi-xii, xiv-xv, xix-xxi, xxiv-xxv, 10, 16, 19, 21-22, 46, 64, 89, 105, 109, 111, 117, 131<LB>Delano, Mortimer F., 64<LB>Delano, California, xi<LB>De La Noye, Jonathan, xi<LB>Delavan, Dr. James, 137<LB>Derby, George Horatio, xviii, xxv<LB><HI REND="italics">Dictionary of American Biography</HI>
073.sgm:, xxii, 15, 32, 46, 75, 125, 133<LB><HI REND="italics">Dictionary of National Biography</HI>
073.sgm:, 137<LB>Donner Pass, xxiii<LB>Dunning, Lola, 82<LB>Dunning, Zophar, 82<LB>Eliza, 43, 69<LB>Elliott, 80-81<LB><HI REND="italics">Embassy</HI>
073.sgm:, a steamboat, 2-3<LB><HI REND="italics">Encyclopaedia Britannica</HI>
073.sgm:, 81<LB><HI REND="italics">Encyclopedia Americana</HI>
073.sgm:, 2<LB>England (see Great Britain), 132, 137<LB>English Grove, Missouri, 12<LB>Enterprise, 38, 92<LB>Erie, Pennsylvania, 42<LB>Europe, 48-49, 63, 145<LB>Fandango Pass, xiv<LB>Fanshawe, Captain Edward G., xxi, 137<LB>Fargo, William G., xxii, xxiv, 64, 146<LB>Feather River, xv-xvii, 16, 20, 22, 24, 32, 38, 40, 43-44, 46, 52-53, 55, 58, 60-61, 64, 67, 69, 77, 81-84, 86-87, 92, 96, 105, 138-139<LB>Ferguson, Milton J., xi<LB>Fires--<LB>Grass Valley, xxiii<LB>San Francisco, xviii-xx, 68, 117, 119, 121-123, 128<LB>Fisher, Charles A., 19, 42<LB>Fletcher, Dr. Mary Delano, xii, xxiv, 16<LB>Floods, 41-42, 44, 106, 129<LB>Forbestown, 38<LB>Ford, Henry L., 55<LB>Fort Childs, 9<LB>Fort Hall, Idaho, 19, 65<LB>Fort Kearny, Nebraska, 9, 12, 13-15<LB>Fort Laramie, Wyoming, 19, 85<LB>Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, 8<LB>Foster, Stephen C., 34 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<LB>Fox River, Illinois, xii, 2, 74<LB>France, 98<LB>Fredenburg, Isaac H. ("Fred"), xii, 2, 4, 6-7, 9, 13, 43, 68, 100<LB>Freeland, Captain John, xvi, 37, 46, 78-79<LB>Fremont, California, 138<LB>Fremont, John Charles, 47, 65<LB>Frenchmen, 75-76, 81-82<LB><HI REND="italics">Friendship</HI>
073.sgm:, a ship, 103<LB>Fulton, Robert, 134<LB><HI REND="italics">Galveston</HI>
073.sgm:, a steamer, 65<LB>Gibbon, Edward, 95<LB>Gibson, James, 128<LB>Gihon, John H., xviii-xix, 68, 117-118, 121, 125, 127<LB>Gillis, James L., xii<LB>Gold Bluff, 107-108<LB>Gold Hill, 114<LB>Gold Lake, xvii-xviii, 89, 92, 97<LB>Gold Lake mountains, xvii-xviii, 97, 106<LB>Goldsmith, Oliver, xvii, 84<LB>Gold Tunnel, 113-114<LB>Goochland County, Virginia, 19<LB>Goodspeed Bros., 43<LB>Goose Lake, 18<LB>Grand Island, Nebraska, 15<LB>Grant, Colonel Joseph, xv-xvi, xix, 36-38, 41, 44-45, 52-53, 69, 78-79, 85, 94, 96, 99-106, 122<LB>Grant, Joseph, 36<LB>Grant, Joseph Osborn, 36<LB>Grant, Ulysses S., xi<LB>Grass Valley, xi, xix-xxii, xxiv-xxv, 16, 112-116, 120-121, 130-137, 142<LB>Grass Valley <LB><HI REND="italics">Telegraph</HI>
073.sgm:, xxii-xxiv<LB>Grass Valley <LB><HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:, xxv<LB>Gray, T. E., xvi, 65, 68<LB>Gray, Thomas, 53, 127<LB>Great Britain (see England), 118, 125, 137-138<LB>Greeley, Horace, 96<LB>Green, George, 74, 112, 117<LB>Green, Jesse, xi, 7, 9, 14, 43, 68, 74, 111, 117<LB>Gregory, Winifred, 36<LB>Gridley, Samuel B., 42<LB>Gudde, Erwin A., xi, xvii, 43, 89, 141<LB>Gum, Mr., 129<LB>Gutierrez rancho, 71<LB>Hall, Dr. Josiah, 69, 117, 119<LB>Hamilton, 100<LB>Handy, 89<LB>Hanna, Phil T., 22, 37, 44<LB>Hardy, 96<LB>Harney's Landing Missouri, 15<LB>Harney, William S., 15<LB>Harris, Matthew, xii, 12-14<LB>Haskins, C. W., 36, 65<LB>Hawaii (see Sandwich Islands)<LB>Hennepin, Illinois, 22<LB>Henry, Andrew, 75<LB>Henry County, Illinois, xvii, 85<LB>Herkimer County, New York, 42<LB><HI REND="italics">Hesperian</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiv<LB>High Rock Canyon, Nevada, 17-18<LB><HI REND="italics">History of LaSalle County, Illinois</HI>
073.sgm:, 9, 42<LB><HI REND="italics">History of Nevada County</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiii<LB><HI REND="italics">History of Sacramento</HI>
073.sgm:, xviii, 41, 100<LB><HI REND="italics">History of Santa Clara County</HI>
073.sgm:, 20<LB>Hoes, Peter, 130<LB>Holland, Erholtz, 34<LB>Hollister, W. B., 83<LB>Hoover, Mildred B., 138<LB>Hudson River Railroad, 133<LB>Hudson's Bay Company, 44<LB>Humboldt County, 20<LB>Humboldt (or Mary's) River, xiv, 16-19, 22-23, 53, 79, 89-90, 119<LB>Hurlbut, Henry, 22<LB><HI REND="italics">Hutchings' California Magazine</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiv<LB><HI REND="italics">Idle and Industrious Miner, The</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiv<LB>Illinois River, xii, 2<LB><HI REND="italics">Illustrated History of Palumas, Lassen, and Sierra Counties</HI>
073.sgm:, 16<LB>Independence Bar, xvii, xix, 88, 94, 98<LB>Independence, Missouri, 7-8<LB>Independent Company of Louisiana Volunteers, 77<LB>Independent Order of Odd Fellows, xii, 46, 52<LB>Indians, xiii-xiv, xvi-xvii, xx-xxi, 2, 5, 8, 11, 14-15, 17, 22-23, 28, 38-39, 42, 47, 58, 64, 68-81, 87-89, 96, 100, 108, 110, 123, 129-130, 133, 139-141<LB>I.O.O.F., xii, 46, 52<LB>Irwin, William, 42<LB>Isthmus of Panama, 25, 36, 44, 65, 132-133, 146<LB>Japan, xix, 104, 110<LB>Japanese, xix, 104, 110<LB>Jefferson, Thomas, xix, 110<LB>Jenkins, John, 118, 125-126<LB>"John Phoenix"<LB>(see Derby, George Horatio) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<LB>Johnson, William, 71-72<LB><HI REND="italics">Journal of Proceedings of the Grand Lodge of the State of California</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiv<LB>Kansas River, 8<LB>Kearney, Nebraska, 9<LB>Kearny, Stephen W., 9<LB>Keefer, Mr., 111, 129-130<LB>Kelley, Mr., 136<LB>Kendall, George W., 1<LB>Kern County, xi<LB>King, Captain, 69, 80<LB>King, Joseph L., 36<LB>Klamath Lake, 29<LB>Klamath River, 107<LB>Kroeber, A. L., 28, 68, 139-140<LB>La Salle County, Illinois, 22, 42-43<LB>Lassen (or "Lawson's") Peak, 140<LB>Lassen (or "Lawson"), Peter, xiv, 16, 20, 47<LB>Lassen Trail, xiv, 16, 20, 23, 53<LB>Lassen's (or "Lawson's") Settlement, xiv, 16, 18-20, 27, 32, 43, 55<LB>Lassik Indians, 140<LB>"Lawson" (see Lassen)<LB>Leeper, David R., 82<LB>Lewis, Benjamin, 118<LB><HI REND="italics">Life on the Plains and Among the Diggings</HI>
073.sgm: (see <LB><HI REND="italics">Across the Plains and Among the Diggings</HI>
073.sgm: )<LB>Little Nemaha River, 65, 117<LB>Little Volcano, 95-98<LB>Liverpool, 132<LB><HI REND="italics">Live Woman in the Mines, A</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiv<LB>Livingston, Johnston, xxii, 146<LB>London, 115<LB>Long's Bar, 40, 68, 85<LB>Loo Choo (Ryukyu Islands), xix, 104<LB>Loring, Thomas, 69<LB>Louisville, Kentucky, 3<LB>Lynchburg, Virginia, xiii, 3-5<LB>McCauley, Hamilton, 119, 121, 124<LB>McDougal, Governor John, 119, 121, 124<LB>McKee, Irving, 14<LB>McMakin, G. S., 113<LB>MacMinn, George R., xxiv<LB>McNeil, William, 43, 68, 73-74, 117<LB>Maginnis, John, 36, 142<LB>Maidu Indians, xvi, xx, 28, 38-39, 47, 58, 64, 68-74, 87-88, 96, 100, 110, 123, 129-130, 133<LB>Malays, 103<LB>Manila, 103<LB>"Mark Twain," 102<LB>Marshall, John, xix, 110<LB>Mary's River (see Humboldt)<LB>Marysville, xvi-xviii, 43, 61-62, 69, 82, 89, 96, 101, 132<LB>Massachusetts Hill, 114-115<LB>Mazatlan, 75<LB>Memphis, Tennessee, 19<LB>Mendocino County, 140<LB><HI REND="italics">Merlin</HI>
073.sgm:, a ship, 104<LB>Mexicans, xviii, 27-28, 47-48, 60, 62, 93, 106, 137<LB>Mexican War, 1, 5, 9, 37, 42, 46, 68<LB>Mexico, 5, 48-49, 63-64, 75, 78, 115, 137, 143<LB>Miller, William, 42-43<LB>Milton, John, 130, 139<LB>Miners' codes and associations, xv, xvii, 40-41, 49-50, 58, 63, 86-87, 93-94, 122-123<LB>Mishawaka, Indiana, 43, 80, 82-83<LB>Mississippi River, 3<LB>Missouri River, xiii-xiv, 4, 6-8, 14-15, 22-23, 42, 131<LB>Modoc County, 141<LB>Modoc War, 141<LB>Monroe, New York, 46<LB>Montez, Lola, xxiii-xxiv<LB>Moore, William, 80-81, 83<LB>Morgan, Edwin B., xxii, 64<LB>Morrill, John, 9<LB>Morse, Dr. John F., 36, 74, 102, 122<LB>Mount Diablo, 120<LB>Mount Shasta, 140-141<LB>"Mud Hill," xv, 26, 34-37, 39, 45, 52-53, 104, 106<LB>Nahl, Charles, xi<LB>Napa, 119<LB>Neal, Samuel, 47, 55<LB>Nebraska City, 9<LB>Nelson Creek, xvii, 94<LB>Nemaha Cut-off, xiv, 23, 65<LB>Nemaha River, 65, 117<LB>Nevada City, xx, 113-114, 120, 122, 128<LB>Nevada County, 82, 112<LB>Newark, Ohio, 7<LB>New Holland (Australia), 168<LB>New Lisbon, Ohio, 34<LB>New Orleans, xix, 36, 65, 102<LB>New Orleans <LB><HI REND="italics">California True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, 36, 74, 123<LB><HI REND="italics">New Orleans</HI>
073.sgm:, a steamboat, 102<LB>New Orleans <LB><HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
073.sgm:, 36 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<LB>New Orleans <LB><HI REND="italics">True Delta</HI>
073.sgm:, xiii, xv, xix-xxii, xxv, 1, 36-37, 41, 44-45, 52, 60-61, 69, 75, 77, 84-85, 88, 94, 96, 99, 101-102, 105-106, 112, 123, 131, 134, 138, 142, 144, 146<LB><HI REND="italics">New World</HI>
073.sgm:, a steamboat, 102<LB>New York City, xxi, 44, 48, 84, 94, 111, 115, 119, 132<LB>New York <LB><HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
073.sgm:, 36<LB>New York <LB><HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiv<LB>New York <LB><HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
073.sgm:, 96<LB>Nicaragua, xxi-xxii, xxiv, 144<LB>Nicolaus, California, 44, 55<LB>Nisbet, James, xviii-xix, 68, 117-118, 121, 125, 127<LB>Norton, William, 82<LB><HI REND="italics">Octavia</HI>
073.sgm:, a ship, 36<LB>"Old Block," Delano's pseudonym, xi, xxiii-xxv, 109, 120<LB><HI REND="italics">Old Block's Sketch Book</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiv, 105<LB>Oleepa, an Indian chief, xvi, 69-70<LB>Oleepa, an Indian village, xvi-xvii, xix, 64, 67-69, 105<LB>Olmstead, John, 111<LB>"Olos" (Indians), 87-88<LB>Oregon, xviii, 8, 17-18, 22-23, 29, 49, 63, 68, 95, 98, 138, 141, 143<LB>Oregon and California Trail, 23, 141<LB>Oregon Bar, 40<LB>Oregon City, 141<LB>Oroville, xv, 26, 34, 36<LB>Osman, Moses, xiii, 1, 21, 81, 108, 117<LB>Osman, William, xiii, xix 1, 5, 16, 21, 35, 64, 81, 89, 94, 108, 117<LB>"Ottawa Bar," xv, 38, 40, 46, 52, 58, 73<LB>Ottawa, Illinois, xii-xiii, xv, xix-xx, 1-4, 6, 9, 12, 19, 42-43, 46, 65, 68-69, 83, 89, 99, 100, 111, 130<LB>Ottawa (Illinois) <LB><HI REND="italics">Free Trader</HI>
073.sgm:, xiii, xvii, xix-xx, xxii, xxv, 1, 8, 12, 15-16, 19, 21-23, 26, 39, 42-43, 46, 64, 69, 80-81, 88-89, 94, 99-100, 108, 111, 117, 119, 128-130<LB><HI REND="italics">Ottawa: Old and New</HI>
073.sgm:, xii, 1-2, 7, 22, 42-43, 46, 52, 68-69<LB><HI REND="italics">Overland Monthly</HI>
073.sgm:, 28<LB><HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
073.sgm:, a steamer, 132<LB>Pacific Medical College, 74<LB>Panama, 25, 36, 44, 65, 132-133, 146<LB>Panama Railroad, 132-133<LB>Parkman, Ohio, xxii, 142, 144<LB><HI REND="italics">Past and Present of LaSalle County, Illinois</HI>
073.sgm:, 7<LB>Patrick, Dr. Sceptre, 66-67<LB><HI REND="italics">Pen-Knife Sketches</HI>
073.sgm:, xi, xviii-xix, xxii-xxv, 9, 16, 87, 109, 120, 137<LB>Periam, 82, 84-85<LB>Peru, 115<LB>Peru, Illinois, xii, 2<LB>Peter Schlemihl, 21<LB>"Pikeys" (Indians), 87-88<LB>Pit River, xiv, 18, 120<LB>Placerville, 111<LB>Platte River, 9, 15, 22-23, 54, 75, 117<LB>Plumas County, 89<LB>Pomeroy, F. C., xiv-xv, 22<LB>Pope, Alexander, 122<LB>Pope, Mr., 68<LB>Potawatomi (or Pottawatomie) Indians, 14<LB>Pottawatomie County, Kansas, 14<LB>Potter, John, 47, 55<LB>Reading, Pierson B., 47<LB>Red Bluff, 140<LB>Reddick, Joseph, 68<LB>Reddick, William, 68<LB>Redding, 74<LB>Reed, Henry J., 42, 69<LB><HI REND="italics">Register of the General Assembly of Virginia, 19</HI>
073.sgm:<LB>Renfro and Company, 86<LB>Rensch, H. E. and E. G., 138<LB><HI REND="italics">Revolution</HI>
073.sgm:, a steamboat, xii, 2<LB>Reynolds, Mr., 42<LB>Roberts, William H., 37<LB>Robinson, William, 128<LB>Rocky Bar Company, xxi, 137<LB>Rogue River, 141<LB>Rood, Walter D., 43, 69<LB>Roosevelt family, xi<LB>Roosevelt, Franklin D., xi<LB>Royce, Josiah, 28, 48, 93<LB>Russia, 138<LB>Ryukyu Islands, xix, 104<LB>Sacramento, xiii, xv-xvi, xviii, xx-xxi, 20-21, 25, 27-28, 32, 35-37, 39-42, 44-47, 49-52, 54-56, 63, 66-68, 93, 96, 99-102, 105, 120, 122-123, 126-128, 132, 138-139<LB>Sacramento <LB><HI REND="italics">Democratic State Journal</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiv<LB>Sacramento <LB><HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
073.sgm:, 137<LB>Sacramento <LB><HI REND="italics">Themis</HI>
073.sgm:, 43<LB>Sacramento River, xiv, xix, 16, 18, 21-22, 26, 41, 43, 53, 57-58, 102, 138-139<LB>Sacramento <LB><HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
073.sgm:, xviii, 28, 36, 44, 93, 103<LB>Sacramento <LB><HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiii-xxv, 2, 16, 20, 36,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<LB>47, 67, 122, 128<LB>Sacramento Valley, xiv, xvii, xxi, 3, 16, 20-21, 23, 26-28, 29, 31-32, 34, 37, 39, 41-44, 47, 52-56, 58, 61, 65, 77, 81, 83, 87-88, 90, 94-98, 106, 110, 120, 131-132, 138-140, 142<LB>St. Joseph, Missouri, xii-xiv, xvii, 1-3, 6-10, 13-15, 85<LB>St. Joseph Rpad, xiii<LB>St. Louis, Missouri, xii, 2-5, 7-9, 13, 65<LB>St. Louis (Missouri) <LB><HI REND="italics">Republican</HI>
073.sgm:, 7, 85<LB>Salem, Massachusetts, xix, 103<LB>Salem (Massachusetts) <LB><HI REND="italics">Register</HI>
073.sgm:, 103<LB>Salt Lake, Utah, 18, 144<LB>Sandwich Islands (Hawaii), 49, 63, 71, 75, 143<LB>San Francisco, xiii, xvi, xviii-xx, xxii-xxiii, 6, 28, 39, 42-44, 48, 50, 63, 65, 68, 74, 82, 100-110, 112, 117-128, 130, 132, 143<LB>San Francisco <LB><HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
073.sgm:, 6, 19, 20, 36, 39, 74, 102-103, 122, 125, 127<LB>San Francisco <LB><HI REND="italics">California Chronicle</HI>
073.sgm:, 36<LB>San Francisco <LB><HI REND="italics">California Courier</HI>
073.sgm:, xviii, xxiii, 109, 120<LB>San Francisco <LB><HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
073.sgm:, 42<LB>San Francisco <LB><HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
073.sgm:, 127<LB>San Francisco <LB><HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
073.sgm:, xxiii-xxiv<LB>San Francisco <LB><HI REND="italics">Pacific Marine Review</HI>
073.sgm:, 103<LB>San Francisco <LB><HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
073.sgm:, xix, 36, 110<LB>San Francisco Stock and Exchange Board, 36<LB>San Joaquin County, 20<LB>San Joaquin Valley, 47<LB>San Jose, 106<LB>San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua, xxii, 144<LB>San Juan River, Nicaragua, xxii, 144<LB>Santa Anna, General Antonio Lo&acute;pez de, 137<LB>Santa Buenaventura rancho, 47<LB>Santa Clara County, 20<LB>Santa Clara Valley, 106<LB>Savannah, Missouri, 14<LB>Scott Mountains, 29<LB>Scott River, xxi, 141<LB>Shakespeare, xvii, 2, 13, 34, 38-39, 74, 84, 101, 109<LB>Shasta Butte (Mount Shasta), 140-141<LB>Shasta Butte City (Yreka), xxi, 141<LB>Shasta City, xxi, 138, 141<LB>Shasta County, 47, 141<LB>Shinn, Charles H., 41<LB>Sierra Nevada Quartz Mining Company, xix-xxi, 114, 120, 129, 137<LB>Smith, Ebenezer, xii, 6-7, 9, 32, 69<LB>Solano County, 36<LB>Soule&acute;, Frank, xviii-xix, 68, 117-118, 121, 125, 127<LB>South America, 49, 56, 63, 115, 133, 136, 143<LB>South Bend, Indiana, xii, 9, 14, 22, 43<LB>South Bend (Indiana) <LB><HI REND="italics">Register</HI>
073.sgm:, 9<LB>South Bend (Indiana) <LB><HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
073.sgm:, 9<LB>South Pass, Wyoming, 143<LB>Spencer, Mr., 44<LB>Springfield, Illinois, 74<LB>Squatter Riots, xviii, 28, 48, 60, 92-93<LB>Stadden, Dan, 69<LB>Starr, Bensley and Company, 42<LB>Stephens, John L., 133<LB>Stony Point, 79<LB>Stringtown, xv, xvii, 81, 84-85, 88, 92<LB>Stuart, James, 127<LB>Sumatra, 103<LB>Sutter Buttes, 139<LB>Sutter, John Augustus, xviii, xx, 28, 44, 47, 75, 117<LB>Sutter's Fort, 16, 19-20, 21, 25, 55<LB>Sydney, New Holland (Australia), 81, 106, 118-119<LB>Table Mountain, 37<LB>Taylor, Colonel, 65<LB>Tecumseh, Michigan, 3<LB>Tehama County, 55<LB>Terre Haute, Indiana, 67<LB>Thompson, John, 128<LB>Thorn, Benjamin K., 2, 7, 43, 68, 100<LB>Townley, James, 129<LB>Trinity County, 29<LB>Trinity River, xxi, 29<LB>Truckee, xxiv<LB>Turner, S. K. (?), xvii, 85<LB>Tutt, Charles M., 9<LB>Ulster County, New York, 2<LB><HI REND="italics">U. S. Biographical Dictionary</HI>
073.sgm:, 52<LB>Utica, New York, 46<LB>Van Buren, President Martin, 133<LB>Vancouver Island, 137<LB>Vernon (or Verona), 43, 138<LB>Vigilance Committees--<LB>Grass Valley, xx, 121, 130<LB>Sacramento, xx, 126-128, 130<LB>San Francisco, xx, 118-119, 121, 120-128, 130<LB>Von Hagen, Victor W., 132 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<LB>Wabash River, 66<LB>Wakeman, Captain Edgar, xix, 102<LB>Walsh, Esq., 115<LB>Warren, Ohio, xxiv<LB>Washington and Lee University, 19<LB>Washington, D. C., 95<LB>Watkins, Colonel Joseph S., xix, 19-20, 110-111<LB>Weaverville, 142<LB>Wells, Fargo and Company, xxii, xxiv, 64, 146<LB>Wells, Henry, xxii, xxiv, 64, 146<LB>Welsh, Captain Charles (?), xix, 104<LB>Willoughby, Dr. D. W. C., 39<LB>Wilson, Charles L., 43<LB>Wilson, James, 127-128<LB>Wind River Mountains, Wyoming, 65<LB>Wintun Indians, xxi, 139-140<LB>Wood's Bar, 38<LB>World's Fair, 115<LB>Yates, Captain John, 75<LB>Yateston, 64, 75, 100<LB>Yreka, xxi, 141<LB>Yuba City, 43, 69<LB>Yuba County, 89<LB>Yuba River, xv, xvii, 19, 22, 33-34, 39, 43-44, 55, 62, 68, 87, 113, 132<LB>Yubaville, 43<LB>Yucatan, 78<LB>Zeluff, Mr., 9</p></DIV>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<DIV><P>310 copies, of which 298 are for</p><P>sale, were printed by Grant Dahlstrom</p><P>at the Castle Press in Pasadena,</p><P>California, in December,</p><P>1952</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
073.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
073.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-074</TITLE>
074.sgm:<TITLE>A Gil Blas in California. By Alexandre Dumas.  Translated by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
074.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
074.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
074.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
074.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
074.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
074.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>34-4055</LCCN>
074.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
074.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 70409</COPYRIGHT>
074.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>A GIL BLAS IN CALIFORNIA</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>A GIL BLAS IN CALIFORNIA</P>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Translated by</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Marguerite Eyer Wilbur</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Foreword by</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Phil Townsend Hanna</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Wood Engravings by</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Paul Landacre</HI>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>ALEXANDRE DUMAS</P>
074.sgm:<P>A</P>
074.sgm:<P>GIL BLAS</P>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">in California</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles : The Primavera Press</HI>
074.sgm:<P>1933</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1934, BY THE</P>
074.sgm:<P>PRIMAVERA PRESS</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>THERE IS <HI REND="italics">a very considerable element of mystery about</HI>
074.sgm: Californie--Un An sur les Bords du San Joaquin et du Sacramento-- <HI REND="italics">Alexandre Dumas' curious book about California during the period of the gold-rush.  Few indeed are the tales of the incredible marquis that remain unknown to English-reading peoples, but there are a few, and this is one of them, for it appears in these pages in a complete English version for the first time</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">It seems extraordinary that a story of American life, and especially so competently written a tale of so romantic a period in American expansion as the California gold-rush of '49 should have been `lost' to American readers so long.  But it has been, for since it was published in Brussels in 1852, no English translation of the petit original volume has been discovered, though it was sufficiently popular in Europe three-quarters of a century and more ago, to warrant its publication in German in the same year that the original French edition appeared (1852) under the title</HI>
074.sgm: Ein Jahr an den Ufern des San Joaquin und des Sacramento, <HI REND="italics">and a second French edition in 1861, under the altered title</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of Alexandre Dumas (Alexandre Davy de la Paillterie) it may be said as it has been said of Giovanni Jacques Casanova de Seingalt, of Laurence Sterne, of Francois Rabelais and of Thomas Browne, that life gave to him a fair full meed of</HI>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<HI REND="italics">experience, and that it owed him nothing on his passing.  A prodigious worker, he exhibited an enormous capacity for the assimilation of pain and pleasure.  Both of these he recognized for the impostors that they are, and in his triumphs over them he enslaved them and capitalized them in the products of his literary industry</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dumas was born at Villers-Cotterets, July 24, 1802.  He died at Puys, near Dieppe, December 5, 1870.  In the sixty-eight years that intervened he swept forward in the literary world of two continents with a plangency that was colossal and a sum total of achievement that was phenomenal.  On his death his published works, all written after 1825, including plays, novels, travels, essays and memoirs, had attained the amazing number of 277 volumes</HI>
074.sgm:<P>Californie <HI REND="italics">appeared shortly after Dumas had reached the zenith of his career</HI>
074.sgm:.  Le Comte de Monte Cristo <HI REND="italics">was far behind</HI>
074.sgm:; Le Vicomte de Bragelonne <HI REND="italics">was fresh from his fecund mind; so, too, were</HI>
074.sgm: La Tulipe noire <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
074.sgm: Olympe de Cle&grave;ves.  <HI REND="italics">Ahead were</HI>
074.sgm: Les Blancs et les Bleus, Les Louves de Machecoul, <HI REND="italics">and--his ruinous newspaper ventures in Paris.  It was the period in Dumas' life when he was said to have operated a great literary factory; to have bought and filched ideas, and hired a corps of writers to put these ideas into printable shape over his name</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Undoubtedly Dumas had many collaborators and</HI>
074.sgm: Californie, <HI REND="italics">strangely, gives credence to the deprecatory, though admittedly exaggerated, strictures of Querard and others who have sought to minimize Dumas' accomplishments</HI>
074.sgm:<P>Californie <HI REND="italics">purports to be the story of a young Frenchman who enlisted with his countrymen in a company destined for</HI>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<HI REND="italics">the gold-fields of California.  His search for coveted riches was unsuccessful and he returned to France.  At Montmorency, a favored holiday retreat of Parisians near Paris where Dumas was visiting, the author and the fortune-seeker met in 1851</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The youth, it developed, had kept a journal of his experiences in California, and this journal, ostensibly, was made the basis of</HI>
074.sgm: Californie.  <HI REND="italics">In the preface to the journal Dumas insists: `It has been only slightly revised, slightly corrected, and not at all added to by me.'  And therein lies mystery</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Disavowing the authorship and yet neglecting to furnish the name of the author, Dumas egregiously proceeds to subscribe himself as the author!  Who did write this book, then, the youthful traveler or the elderly author?  It is impossible to say with any degree of certainty, though from the internal evidence, and omitting from consideration Dumas' disavowal of authorship, I am inclined to concur in the judgment of the translator, who notes: `I do feel very definitely the hand of Dumas throughout this record</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Moreover, there are numerous tricks of the writing trade, known only to professional writers, that have been employed throughout the work, notably a long and extraneous chapter obviously introduced to pad the tale to book-length.  The traveler may have been entirely a figment of Dumas' imagination, but it seems more probable that Dumas met him, heard his story, may even have had access to his notes, saw the dramatic possibilities of the tale and composed it immediately</HI>
074.sgm:<P>Californie <HI REND="italics">is entertaining as a tale; it is both entertaining and edifying as a contribution to our understanding of life during the gold-rush.  The chapters on market-hunting, living conditions in San Francisco, and mining methods are excellent</HI>
074.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<HI REND="italics">&amp; the story, unlike later reconstructions of the ways of the period by French authors, is remarkably free from factual errors</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">To Henry R. Wagner, California bibliophile, historian and geographer, thanks are due for calling this little known item to the attention of the translator--Marguerite Eyer Wilbur--which resulted in its publication in part in</HI>
074.sgm: Touring Topics <HI REND="italics">during 1931, and to William S. Mason thanks are likewise due for the use of the rare first edition in checking &amp; correlating the two French &amp; the German texts.  Californians will be grateful to the translator for making available to them in splendid English an important and delightful book about one of the most romantic periods in the annals of their beloved State</HI>
074.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">One may speculate to no end and with little profit on the circumstances surrounding the writing of</HI>
074.sgm: Californie.  <HI REND="italics">One can't help but wonder, at the same time, if it might not have been the subject of numerous reminiscential conversations between Dumas and his last great love--Ada Isaacs Menken</HI>
074.sgm: --Mazeppa, <HI REND="italics">boasting that she had never `lived with Houston; it was General Jackson, and Methusaleh, and other big men'--who, from captivating the hearts of California gallants, dashed to the arms of the King of Romance</HI>
074.sgm:<P>PHIL TOWNSEND HANNA.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>INTRODUCTION,<HSEP>PAGE vii.<LB>DUMAS TO HIS EDITOR,<HSEP>xiii.<LB>I: THE DEPARTURE,<HSEP>1.<LB>II: FROM HAVRE TO VALPARAISO,<HSEP>8.<LB>III: VALPARAISO TO SAN FRANCISCO,<HSEP>18.<LB>IV: SAN FRANCISCO,<HSEP>28.<LB>V: CAPTAIN SUTTER,<HSEP>43.<LB>VI: I BECOME A PORTER,<HSEP>48.<LB>VII: THE PLACERS,<HSEP>59.<LB>VIII: THE SIERRA NEVADA,<HSEP>65.<LB>IX: THE AMERICANS,<HSEP>73.<LB>X: THE SAN FRANCISCO FIRE,<HSEP>82.<LB>XI: HUNTING,<HSEP>89.<LB>XII: A NIGHT'S HUNT ON THE PRAIRIES,<HSEP>96.<LB>XIII: SNAKE-GRASS,<HSEP>105.<LB>XIV: ALUNA,<HSEP>113.<LB>XV: ALONG THE SACRAMENTO,<HSEP>132.<LB>XVI: HUNTING BEAR,<HSEP>137.<LB>XVII: THE MARIPOSA,<HSEP>140.<LB>XVIII: LIFE AS A WAITER,<HSEP>148.<LB>XIX: DEMON FIRE AGAIN,<HSEP>154.<LB>XX: CONCLUSION,<HSEP>159.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>DUMAS TO HIS EDITOR</HEAD><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>DUMAS TO HIS<LB>EDITOR</P> 
074.sgm:<P>Montmorency<LB>July 20, 1851</P>
074.sgm:<P>MY DEAR EDITOR:</P>
074.sgm:<P>YOU WILL no doubt be somewhat surprised, upon glancing down at the end of this letter, to find the signature of a man who is the most prolific writer of books, but the worst letter-writer in the world.  This situation will be somewhat clarified when you note that this letter is accompanied by a lengthy manuscript entitled <HI REND="italics">A year along the banks of the San Joaqui&acute;n and the Sacramento</HI>
074.sgm:<P>By rare good luck, I decided on the eleventh of last July to go down for two or three days to Enghien.  This trip, I may add, was not made, however, purely for pleasure--God forbid that I should indulge in such a luxury!  By no means!  Desiring rather to recount in my Memoirs a scene that had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Though aware that at Enghien mineral springs similar to those found at Pierrefonds and Auteuil had been discovered, yet I was entirely ignorant of the changes introduced by this discovery and of the fact that Enghien was on the verge of becoming a great city such as Geneva, Zurich, or Lucerne, and was indeed hoping to become a seaport like Asnie&grave;res.  Accordingly I departed for Enghien by the tram that left at ten forty-five in the evening.  At eleven o'clock I got off at the station and asked for the road leading from the station over to Enghien.  Can you imagine, my good friend, a Parisian--or what amounts to the same thing, a provincial who has been living in Paris for the last twenty-five years--asking at the Enghien station how to reach Enghien!</P>
074.sgm:<P>The result was that the guard whom I asked, believing, I suppose, that I was merely joking--but which, I can assure you, was far from my intention--the guard, concealing his feelings and with the proverbial courtesy of men in public employ, merely replied, `Go up as far as the bridge, then turn to your right.'  I thanked him and went on up to the bridge.  Having reached the bridge, I glanced toward the right and there loomed a city with which I was totally unfamiliar.  This, however, was not the Enghien I had known.  What I recalled was an immense marsh entirely covered with reeds and marshy plants, abounding in duck, sea-divers, water-fowl, and king-fishers, and with two or three houses built over it on poles.  Such was the Enghien I had known, the Enghien of my memories, the Enghien where I had gone hunting twenty-two years ago.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>As a result I mistook this conglomeration of houses for another Enghien, and started out to search for the true location.  `Go on,' I had been told, `as far as the bridge, then turn to the right.'  Now on the right was a small inconspicuous road, one used solely by pedestrians.  Such a road must surely lead to my old Enghien.  I started up this road which led to a field enclosed on all sides by hedges.  According to my ideas, while Enghien might not as yet have attained the dignity of a city, yet at least it had not descended to the level of a weed-patch.  Enghien was neither Babylon burned by Alexander, nor Carthage destroyed by Scipio.  The plow had not passed over Enghien nor had seed been planted in the furrows left by the plow; no evil spell had been cast over this wretched place--so obviously I could not be standing where Enghien had once stood.</P>
074.sgm:<P>I now retraced my steps--that major recourse of travelers who have lost their way and orators who have gone astray in their discourses.  I retraced my steps and found, again on my right, a kind of wooden bridge which led me--I was about to say into blackness, but let me correct myself--under a long, dark avenue of trees, through whose foliage I seemed to see, this time on my left, the somber waters of the marsh that moved &amp; caught reflections from the cloudy sky.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Yet the expanse of water at Enghien did not resemble a marsh; however, I was ignorant of the fact that these waters, appreciably diminished, now formed a lake.  Accordingly I went boldly along the road knowing, from the moment I saw this body of water, that Enghien could not be far away.  The thought that the end of my journey was approaching was entirely agreeable; heavy rains were beginning to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Unperturbed by what I saw, I traveled on down the road.  A sheltered glade was soon apparent.  Hastening on toward this point, I was soon clearly convinced from the local topography that I had mistaken my locations.  I had unwittingly been moving around the lake and, having started out from its southern end, had now reached its northern tip.</P>
074.sgm:<P>On the opposite side of this stretch of water gleamed two or three lights indicating the location of the houses for which I had unsuccessfully searched.  On my right and left rose--as unexpectedly as theatrical decorations that appear at the sound of a mechanic's whistle--Gothic chateaux, Swiss chalets, Italian villas, and English cottages.  On the lake, where duck, sea-divers, coots, mud-hens, and martin-fishers once lived, thousands of white spots shimmered on the waters.  These, after a cursory examination, proved to be swans.</P>
074.sgm:<P>You may recall the Parisian who wagered he could walk barefooted over the ice across the great pool of the Tuileries and who, when half way over stopped, saying, `Upon my word, this is too cold; I prefer to lose my wager!' and retraced his steps.  While I failed to follow his example, yet, foolishly or wisely, I continued along the road.  Then all the facetious remarks published about me for not having been able to make the tour of the Mediterranean in 1834 came to mind.  I imagined what might be written if it became noised <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>I followed the circular road that enclosed all this new Venice, aware that by so doing I could not go far astray.  To return to my original point of departure was essential and to go back to where I had started I was compelled to pass by the houses built along the causeway which to me constituted the solitary, unique, and true Enghien.  Finally, after traveling about a quarter of an hour, I reached the long-anticipated Enghien.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Again I believed I was mistaken, so slightly did this resemble the Enghien of 1827.  Finally, from a carriage passing by, I secured information and ascertained that I had now reached my destination.  I was directly opposite Hotel Talma.  What luck! This would just suit me, for I cherished a strong affection and admiration for this great artist.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Crossing the street, I then knocked at Hotel Talma, where everything was closed, from the vent-hole in the cellar to the loft in the garret.  This, however, merely gave me time to philosophize.  So it was not true that to forget was universal.  For here was a man who, to commemorate Talma, had bestowed on his establishment the name of the revered saint.  True, I might have preferred to have seen a monument erected in a village.  But, after all, what was I to expect?  Far better to have his name, twenty-five years after his death, inscribed on the facade of an hotel rather than not to have his name revered at all.</P>
074.sgm:<P>You are aware, my good friend, how at Westminster the statue of Garrick faces that of King George the Fourth.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xviii</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>`What,' at length asked the head, `do you want?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`I want a room, bed, and supper.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`The hotel is full,' replied the head.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The head then disappeared, the arm pulled in the shutter which was noisily closed, and from behind it the head continued to growl, `Eleven-thirty--a fine hour to ask for a room and supper!'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Half-past eleven,' I repeated, `this seems to me a proper time for supper and bed.  But if Hotel Talma is full perhaps I can find something else.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>I now sallied forth resolutely in quest of supper, a room, and a bed.  Before me from an immense building streamed brilliant lights and the sound of music.  Upon approaching, I read in gilt lettering, Hotel des Quatre-Pavillons.  Well, I said to myself, it will be most unfortunate if, under these four flags, there is no room for me.  I entered.  The ground-floor was brilliantly illuminated; the balance was totally dark.  I searched in vain for someone to approach, but here the situation was even worse than in the palace of Beauty in the Woods, where all the world slept.  At the Hotel des Quatre-Pavillons, no one, either asleep or awake, could be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xix</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>`My good friend,' I asked, `can I procure supper, a room, and a bed?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Where do you want it?' replied the servant.</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Why here, woman!'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Here?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Certainly, am I not in the Hotel des Quatre-Pavillons?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Yes, Monsieur.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Well, then, have you no rooms?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Yes, we shall have more than one hundred and fifty.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`When will that be?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`When the hotel is finished.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`But when will it be finished?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`As for that, Monsieur, I cannot say.  But if Monsieur would care to dance...'</P>
074.sgm:<P>I found the `if Monsieur would care to dance,' of the Hotel des Quatre-Pavillons, almost as impertinent as the `everything is full,' of Hotel Talma.  The result was that I soon left to search for other lodgings.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The only place for which I held out even slight hope was Hotel d'Enghien.  The proprietor of a wine-shop that was still open pointed out its location.  I went over and knocked, but this time the hotel-keeper did not even bother to reply.</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Well,' said the wine-merchant, shaking his head,`that is Father Bertrand's custom when there are no vacancies in his hotel.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`What,' I cried, `he will not even answer?'</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xx</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>`Why do so,' replied the wine-merchant, `when accommodations are not available?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>This seemed so logical that I had nothing more to say.  So I dropped my arms and let my head fall on my chest.</P>
074.sgm:<P>`However,' I murmured, `this is something I could never have believed possible.  No rooms at Enghien!'  Then, raising my head, I observed, `what about rooms at Montmorency?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Ample accommodations.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Does old man Leduc still run the Hotel du Cheval Blanc?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`No, but his son does.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Well,' I replied, `the father was an inn-keeper of the old school; the son, provided he has studied under his father--which seems reasonable,--the son must know how to get up at any hour of the night and find rooms, even when the house is full.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>And so, accompanied by the same rains which had finally turned into a steady downpour, I departed for Montmorency.  On the far side of the railroad all seemed natural and unchanged from what I had known before.  This was the same classic road over which I had travelled twenty years ago, following walls, crossing fields, passing under the shade of old walnut trees, and finally entering the village over small, sharp stones that must have been supplied to the municipality by those who had donkeys for hire in order to impress on the traveler the impossibility of traveling on foot.  I recognized the rapid ascent; I recognized the market-hall; I recognized the hostelry of Le Cheval Blanc.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The village clock was just striking a quarter past one.  Undaunted, I ventured to knock.  What would be said to me, who, two hours earlier, had been greeted almost like a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxi</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>`Why Monsieur,' she remarked, `what a state you are in.  In any event you run no risk by coming in, drying off, and changing from wet clothes.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`As for entering and drying off, I accept from the depths of my heart.  But as for other garments...'</P>
074.sgm:<P>I showed her the bundle I had been carrying under my arm since alighting from the train and which contained a shirt, two pairs of socks, a chronological manual, and a volume of Michelet's <HI REND="italics">Revolution</HI>
074.sgm:<P>`But,' she remarked, `don't let that distress you; whatever you require will be supplied by Monsieur Leduc.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>Oh saintly hospitality!  What makes you supreme and worthy of being revered is not only the fact of being offered without compensation, but also with a friendly voice and a smiling countenance.  Saintly hospitality; undoubtedly you dwell at Montmorency; and Rousseau, who was not always entirely judicious, was fully aware of his acts when he asked for hospitality at La Chevrette.  I do not know how the poor Marquise d'Espinay received you, sublime author of <HI REND="italics">Emile</HI>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxii</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>From then on their hospitality knew no bounds.  I was given the finest room in the hotel,--Mademoiselle Rachel's own chamber.  Leduc insisted on serving my supper; Marguerite prepared my bed.  Under such circumstances I acceded graciously to their every wish.  You can readily understand, my good friend, that I had to relate all that had happened &amp; how, at a quarter past one, on foot, drenched to the bones, and with a small bundle under my arm, I happened to knock at the door of Le Cheval Blanc, at Montmorency.  Had I come to demand the hospitality of an exile, like Barbaroux or Louvet?  Fortunately, I reassured Monsieur Leduc, nothing like this had happened.  I had merely come to pass a day or two at Enghien and, not having found supper, a room, or a bed, had pushed on as far as Montmorency.  Monsieur Leduc gave a sigh that was far more eloquent in its meaning than the `Thou, too,' of C&aelig;sar.</P>
074.sgm:<P>I hastened to explain to Monsieur Leduc that I had not come to Enghien for pleasure, but to work.  `Undoubtedly,' replied Monsieur Leduc, `you can work at Montmorency as well as at Enghien.  Here you will be less disturbed.'  There was such profound melancholy in these few words, `You will not be disturbed,' that I hastened at once to reply, `Yes, and in place of remaining forty-eight hours, I shall remain eight days.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`And now,' Monsieur Leduc answered, `if you plan to remain eight days, you can work on something that may surprise you.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`At what shall I work?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`On a voyage to California.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Come now, dear Monsieur Leduc, don't be foolish!'</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxiii</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>`Wait until tomorrow; I will then tell you all about it.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Very well; let us wait until tomorrow.  Moreover no one in the world is more prone to welcome the unexpected.  Once I made a trip to Egypt with Dauzats, but without seeing the country.  Find me a man as inspiring as Dauzats, who has just returned from California, &amp; I will return with him.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`I have just the man for you.  A boy arrived today with a complete journal; a boy who is a veritable Gil Blas, a boy who has been in turn a porter, a gold-seeker, who has hunted deer, bear, been an hotel-boy, a wine-merchant, and second in command of the ship on which he returned from San Francisco by way of China, the Straits of Malacca, Bengal, and the Cape of Good Hope.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`And when can I see him, my good Monsieur Leduc.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Whenever you say the word!'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`What I personally find in California,' I went on to say, `is probably quite different from what others imagine.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`What do you find there?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Oh, that is too long a story for this evening.  The hour is now two in the morning.  I am quite worn, I have dined well, and I have a good bed.  I shall see you tomorrow, Monsieur Leduc.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>The following day Monsieur Leduc brought me his traveler. He was a man twenty-six years old, with an intelligent eye, a black beard, a sympathetic voice, and a skin bronzed by the equatorial suns, for he had recently crossed the equator for the fourth time.  Before I had talked with him ten minutes I was convinced that such a man must have kept a most interesting journal.  After reading this from beginning to end I was, indeed, aware that my inference had been correct.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxiv</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>And may I now tell you personally, my dear editor, what I did not choose to reveal the other evening to Monsieur Leduc about California, giving as an excuse that the hour was too late and we were too tired.  What I wished to remark in a general way was what I have discovered on a smaller scale concerning Enghien, which is growing and increasing, whereas Montmorency is weakening and falling into decay.  The railroad, that is, civilization, passes only one hundred paces from Enghien, but passes one-half league from Montmorency.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Now, I know a small village in the south called Les Eaux; formerly, that is, about one hundred years ago, this was a prosperous village of men, women and children.  It was situated on the side of a hill, in a land rich in fruits, flowers, sweet songs, &amp; refreshing breezes.  On Sunday mornings mass was held in a gay little church bright with colored frescoes, before an altar covered with a cloth embroidered by the local women and adorned with small gilded saints made of wood.  In the evening dances were held under broad sycamores that sheltered, in addition to the dancers, interested spectators and gay drinkers--three generations of brave men who were born there, who lived there, and who expected to die there.  A road passed through the village that ran, I believe, from Tarascon to N&icirc;mes; that is, from one village to another.  The life of the small village centered about this road.  What, to the province, was merely a secondary outlet was the main artery of this little village, the aorta that caused its very heart to beat.  One day, in order to shorten the distance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxv</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The village fell into a decline, sickened, grew seriously ill, and died.  I have since seen it dead, entirely dead, devoid of all life.  The houses were quite empty, some still closed as they were on the day when those who had lived there went away; in others, open to the four winds, fires had been made on the deserted hearths with broken furniture--perhaps by lost travelers, perhaps by stray Bohemians.  The church is still in existence, the checker-like planting of sycamores will remain indefinitely.  But the church has lost its songs; the altar cloth hangs in shreds; some wild animal flying perhaps in fright from the church where it had sought refuge has overthrown one of the small wooden saints.  The sycamores, too, have lost their musicians, their dancers, their spectators, their drinkers.  In the cemetery the father waits in vain for his son; the mother, her daughter; the grandfather, his grandson.  In their graves they are astonished not to hear the earth moving around them, and inquire, `What are they doing up there?  Do people no longer die?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>This is exactly what is taking place at Montmorency, which is weakening and languishing, now that the life-giving artery has scorned this place in favor of Enghien.  Still at times mistakes are made for all strangers make the pilgrimage to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxvi</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Here is how she accomplishes her vast work which neither straits, mountains, rivers, nor oceans check.  Born in the Orient, where day dawns, civilization moves on from India and, leaving behind the ruins of enormous cities which are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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074.sgm:<P>A period of tranquility then ensues, an age when Greece gave to the world Homer, Heriod, Orpheus, &AElig;schylus, Sophocles, Euripides, and Plato--an age when the torch was lit.  Then, after Rome had conquered Sicily, Africa, Italy, the Pont, the Gauls, Syria, and Egypt, when to speak briefly, she had united them; after Christ, prophesied by Socrates &amp; predicted by Virgil, had been born, this inveterate traveler started again on her journey, dissatisfied until she could return once more to the lands from which she had departed.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Then came the decline of Rome, the downfall of Alexandria, and the loss of Byzantium, which gave way to a second--Carthage, mother of Tunis, to Granada, Seville, Cordova the Arabian Trinity which united Africa and Europe--to Florence and her Medicis from Cosmus the Elder to Cosmus the Tyrant, to Christian Rome with her Julius II, her Leo X, and her Vatican, to Paris with Francis I, Henry IV, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxviii</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>But here, no doubt, she would be embarrassed to continue on her way, for this indefatigable goddess would now have to stop, or turn back, being checked by the double desert dominating the region of the Rocky Mountains.  Checked by the Isthmus of Panama&acute;, she could not penetrate into the Pacific except by doubling Cape Horn, &amp; even by making a supreme effort all that would be saved by venturing across the Straits of Magellan would be three or four hundred leagues.  And so, for the last sixty years, scholars, geographers, and navigators of all lands have kept their eyes turned toward America.  How sacrilegious to believe that to Providence anything is impossible, that obstacles can exist to God!</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxix</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Here is what happened.  A Swiss captain, driven out by the July revolution, traveled from Missouri over to Oregon, and from Oregon to California.  Obtaining from the Mexican government a concession of land on the American fork, he was excavating, preparatory to establishing a mill-race, when he saw particles of gold scattered in this soil.  This occurred in 1848.  In 1848, the white population in California comprised some ten or twelve thousand inhabitants.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Three years have passed by since rumors, emanating from Captain Sutter, were circulated about this gold, rumors which will, in all probability, affect the entire world.  California now numbers 200,000 emigrants from all over the world.  And, out on the Pacific Ocean, near the most beautiful &amp; the finest gulf in the world, there has arisen a city destined to rival London and Paris.</P>
074.sgm:<P>And so, my good friend, the Rocky Mountains and the Isthmus of Panama&acute; are no more.  A railroad will soon run from New York to San Francisco, just as the electric telegraph already connects New York and New Orleans.  In place of the Isthmus of Panama&acute;, which is too difficult to pierce, the river Jusgnitto has been utilized and, by cutting through the mountain, a pass will be made from Lake Nicaragua through to the Pacific Ocean.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Moreover, all this is being accomplished at the very time when Abbas Pacho is building a railroad from Suez to El Areich.  The result of all this is that a civilization that started out from India has now nearly returned to India and has merely paused for a brief time on the banks of the San Joaqui&acute;n and Sacramento to ascertain whether, to regain her cradle, she should pass directly across Bering Straits, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxx</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>In the meanwhile, by utilizing the Suez railroad and route via Nicaragua, within ten years a tour of the world can be made in three months.  This is primarily why, my friend, I believe this little volume on California is worth publishing.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Sincerely yours,</P>
074.sgm:<P>ALEXANDRE DUMAS.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<BODY><P>A GIL BLAS IN CALIFORNIA</P>
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074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>1</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<HEAD>I: THE DEPARTURE</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>I WAS twenty-four years old and out of work; throughout France the sole topic of conversation at this time was the gold mines of California.  On every street corner companies were being organized for the transportation of travelers.  These monopolists made ruinous promises regarding what advantages they could offer.  I was not rich enough to sit with idle hands; but I was young enough to spend a year or more in an attempt to amass a fortune.  So I decided to risk 1,000 francs and my life--the only two things I had wholly at my disposal.  Moreover, I was already--as the sailors say--at home on the briny deep.  Among my friends was the old man of the sea; by his hand I had been baptized in the tropics when crossing the line.  As an apprenticed sailor under Admiral Dupetit-Thouars, I had made the trip out to the Marquesas Islands, had touched on the way out at Point <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:Teneriffe, Rio de Janeiro, Valparaiso, Tahiti, &amp; Nuka Hiva and at Woihavo and Lima on the return voyage.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Captain Abel Dupetit-Thouars left France on the <HI REND="italics">Venus</HI>
074.sgm: in December, 1836, returning in June, 1839.  The expedition rounded Cape Horn, visited the South Seas, Alaska, and California.  The record of this trip, <HI REND="italics">Voyage Autour du Monde</HI>
074.sgm:<P>Having arrived at this decision, there remained merely to decide which of these societies I should elect to join, a problem fairly difficult of solution.  As a matter of fact, I pondered over this at such length that my choice finally fell on one of the weakest of these organizations, a company known as the Socie&acute;te&acute; Mutuelle.  The headquarters of the Socie&acute;te&acute; Mutuelle were at No. 24, Rue Pigale, Paris.  Each member joining was required to contribute 1,000 francs for food &amp; passage.  We were to work together and share equally in all profits.  Furthermore, if one member or partner (which was the same thing) brought along any goods to sell, the company took charge of the sale of his wares and guaranteed him one-third of the profits.  In return for the 1,000 francs deposited by each member the company was to supply, upon our arrival, lodgings in wooden houses that were carried out with us on our vessel.  Connected with the enterprise were a doctor and a pharmacist; but each member had to provide himself at his own expense with a double-barreled gun, using bullets of a certain size and equipped with bayonet.  The pistols could be of whatever type or size suited the individual purchaser.  Being a hunter I attached considerable importance to this part of my equipment which, as will be soon apparent, was indeed fortunate.  Upon our arrival we were to work under leaders whom we selected from our members.  Every three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Final arrangements were made at Paris, but we were all to congregate at Nantes.  At Nantes a ship of some 400 tons was to be purchased through a local banker with whom, according to the company, arrangements had been made in advance.  This vessel, moreover, was to take on a cargo--in which we were to share profits--for which the banker was defraying the cost, merely reserving for himself a reasonable percentage of the proceeds.  All equipment was being acquired for the Society whose capital was to be reimbursed plus 5 per cent interest.  This, obviously, was an extraordinary opportunity--at least on paper.</P>
074.sgm:<P>On May 21, 1849, I departed for Nantes, where I stopped at the Hotel du Commerce.  This trip was made with two comrades who had joined this same Society and who were departing at the same time.  These two friends were Mr. Mirandole and Mr. Gauthier.  Furthermore, another old friend and neighbor from my home town, Tillier of Groslay, had already left ahead of me.  We had been companions from early childhood, and his departure had strongly influenced my decision.  Tillier had joined the Socie&acute;te&acute; Nationale.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At Nantes our troubles began.  Owing to certain questions raised between members of the Society and the directors, the banker declined to advance further capital.  As a result, the owner who had sold the boat made arrangements for a captain and hired all the sailors, thus being forced to take the entire load on his own shoulders.  Since he was in the right and since all his transactions with the Society were perfectly legal, the loss fell on the members themselves, to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The final outcome was that we were loaded into carriages that transported us from Nantes to Laval, from Laval to Mayenne, and from Mayenne to Caen.  At Caen we were placed aboard a steamer and brought to Havre.  From this port we were scheduled to set sail on July twenty-fifth.  But after the twenty-fifth, the twenty-sixth, and the twenty-seventh had come and gone, we grew restive under the absurd excuses offered.  Finally, on the twenty-seventh, we were told that we would not be ready to leave before the thirtieth.</P>
074.sgm:<P>For three days we waited patiently in the interests of our company.  By recalling how, in February, 1848, workers had spent three miserable months in the service of our country, we concluded that by comparison what we were enduring was of minor importance.  So we resigned ourselves to the delay.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But, unfortunately, on July thirtieth another statement was given out--the date of departure had been moved ahead to August twentieth.  The poorest members of our party talked of a revolt not knowing, in fact, how they were to live during these twenty-one days.  But rich shared with poor--&amp; we awaited the twentieth of August.  But on the very eve of our departure we made a new discovery; namely, that the Society being, or pretending to be, even poorer than its members, would be unable to provide many things of primary importance for a voyage such as we were about to undertake.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The day of our departure at length dawned.  Our ship was the <HI REND="italics">Cachalot</HI>
074.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">Spermaceti--whale.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Mass said on the eve of such a departure is invariably a grave affair; for some who participated, this would undoubtedly be their last mass.  Such was the comment made to me by a delightful youth nearby who was listening devoutly to this mass; he was one of the editors of the <HI REND="italics">Journal du Commerce</HI>
074.sgm:, and was called Bottin.  I silently indicated by nodding my head that I was thinking at that same moment exactly what he had just voiced.  During the elevation of the host, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>When mass was over, a proposal was made to hold a fraternal banquet at a cost of one franc, fifty centimes each.<ANCHOR ID="n1-3">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3">Approximately 30 cents; the franc was worth 20 cents, and contained 100 centimes.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>The banquet was to take place at Ingouville; at four o'clock we were all to assemble at the docks and at five o'clock take our places at the banquet table.  All were as punctual as if attending mass.  Since the participants arrived in pairs, they were seated in an orderly manner.  An effort was made to be gay.  I say an effort was made; for, as a matter of fact, everyone was sad at heart, and I strongly suspect that the more noise they made the more profound was their inward grief.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Toasts were offered for a safe journey; wishes were extended for finding the richest placers on the San Joaqui&acute;n; the thickest lodes on the Sacramento.  The master-owner of the <HI REND="italics">Cachalot</HI>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The following day in the early hours of the morning the sailors in turn paraded through the city carrying flags and bouquets.  This parade terminated at the port where the entire population had assembled to see us off and bid us farewell.  Everyone moved hastily from shop to shop.  Not until the moment of departure had actually arrived were we aware of what we might need after we had departed.  I, for my part, laid in a supply of powder and balls; ten pounds of one and forty pounds of the other.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At eleven o'clock the ship pulled out of port, sped by a pleasant little northwest breeze.  Ahead of us was an American boat being towed by the steamer <HI REND="italics">Le Mercure</HI>
074.sgm:.  We moved out from the jetty singing the <HI REND="italics">Marseillaise</HI>
074.sgm:, <HI REND="italics">Chant du De&acute;part</HI>
074.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Mourir pour la Patrie</HI>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II: FROM HAVRE TO VALPARAISO</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>ON BOARD, as I have said, were fifty passengers; of this number fifteen were women, two being in the captain's rooms and the others housed down below.  The crew consisted of a captain, a second officer, a lieutenant, eight men, and a cabin-boy.  The spar-deck, being reserved for passengers, had not been loaded with merchandise; this had been planned for the accommodation of travelers, and contained four rows of cabins.  We were two in a cabin, one bunk being over the other.  Mr. de Mirandole was my cabin-mate.  The women had separate quarters; a kind of open space had been constructed for them to the rear of larboard.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Our 150 passengers comprised members sent out by three companies; no one received what quarters he had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Our first dinner on board ship was served at five o'clock, just as land disappeared behind the horizon.  So far no one was seasick, but no one had much appetite.  The table was placed on deck, or rather the deck was used for a table.  The ship being overcrowded, the deck was cluttered with cases of sulphuric acid, kegs of water for use during the passage, and planks cut ready to be erected and made into houses upon our arrival.  In addition, we carried a dozen small houses that were already built and were no more trouble to erect than to assemble a clock.  These had been built at Havre and sold for 100 up to 125 francs.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The first day, as is customary soon after leaving port, dinner consisted of soup, some boiled meat, a quart of wine, and an extremely small portion of bread.  This at once led us to believe that bread was not abundant on board.  As a matter of fact, later on we had bread only on Sundays and Thursdays; on other days we ate biscuits.  For every eight passengers there was a large tin bowl; into this each one dipped with his plate, which was his complete table service.  We squatted down like Orientals and ate in this fashion.  That same day on toward eight o'clock in the evening, we fell in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>One of the crying needs of man who travels far, traverses a vast expanse of water, and finds himself surrounded solely by sky and water, is the need to send back news to those from whom he has just parted.  He feels so minute in this vast stretch of universe that by binding himself by means of a letter to land he affords himself the consolation of feeling that he is not utterly lost.  Unfortunate indeed are those who, under these conditions, have no one to whom to write!  The fisherman went off loaded down like a postman with mail.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The evening of our second day out the winds again veered without having caused the loss of much time, or proven wearisome.  From then on we made steady headway.  The captain who, as has been said, was quite parsimonious, owing to the small amount of wheat carried aboard, with bread, had placated us by saying that we were to put in at Madeira and take on potatoes.  The winds, however, being favorable, from the standpoint of economy of time it seemed wiser at the last moment to continue directly on our course.  Yet we did not fail to make several pointed remarks that led him to understand that we were not blind to the economies he was practising on us.  A captain, however, is king on board his vessel.  Though we were in the majority, yet he decided that we should continue on our route &amp; that a favorable wind would have to act as substitute for potatoes.  As a matter of fact, we all rejoiced at moving steadily ahead.  The <HI REND="italics">Cachalot</HI>
074.sgm:, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Off Senegal our watch sighted a ship; she proved to be an American frigate out cruising.  Altering her course she came up to us, dipping her colors.  We did the same, exchanged latitudes and longitudes--the good-morning and good-evening of sailors--then continued on our route, while the frigate proceeded on her journey.  To us these exchanges of latitude and longitude had a certain definite value for we had on board quite a poor chronometer.  Even the name of the frigate that had just rendered this service was unknown to us; except for a flamboyant band, indicating her guns, she was painted entirely black, like the ship of the Red Corsair.</P>
074.sgm:<P>As we proceeded further on toward the equator, definite signs of this region began to appear.  The waters of the sea turned a deeper blue; large banks of weeds called tropical raisins were encountered; flying fish skimmed the waters; schools of bonito and dorado passed by; the heat grew oppressive, all unfailing indications.  Fishing for bonito and dorado now began.  Such fishing becomes extremely simple and easy by making use of what has been devised by venerable fishermen along the banks of the Seine.  This is the fishing art in its infancy.  Over the bowsprit a certain number of cords are hung, on whose ends are tied what resemble flying fish.  The pitching of the ship plunges the bait in and out of the water and so each time the strings leave the water, dorado and bonito, mistaking the bait for live fish, jump for it and are caught on the hook.  This is a veritable manna that God sends in this warm latitude to us poor passengers.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The fishing was universal.  At length we reached &amp; crossed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Having already referred to the women, I shall now speak of them again.  Those on board were not, as can be readily understood, religiously inclined; as a result when our boat was well under way in addition to lotto, dominoes, backgammon, and e&acute;carte&acute;, they played another game called marriage, which consisted in its two salient aspects of being married and being divorced.  Inasmuch as there were only 15 women and 135 men on our vessel this was more than a game; it was almost an institution--a philanthropic institution.  Of the fifteen women, three were already engaged prior to our departure.  All three had genuine husbands, or rather genuine lovers, and consequently if they married it was merely a mock marriage.  Each one of these marriages was attended by functions corresponding to those fulfilled by witnesses, relatives, or priests in serious marriages.  These duties were executed with the utmost gravity.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Another serious task requiring absolute impartiality had also been devised.  This was the task of acting as judge.  Here is a typical instance.  One of our friends, B--, had brought his mistress with him.  Before leaving France he had made, at considerable personal sacrifice, a heavy purchase of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>In addition to the complaints and recriminations of her former friend who was of the belief that if he had lost his hold over her he might at least retain her personal effects, he promptly seized all her wardrobe one morning, leaving only one garment.  Warm though it was at the equator where the event occurred, what she retained was quite inadequate.  So the victim voiced her complaints and in the meanwhile called on us for assistance.  Although we may have felt that the single garment suited Mlle. X--to perfection, yet we were too fair-minded not to respond to her appeal.  A tribunal was arranged, &amp; judges appointed.  From this arose the founding of this new office.  These intermediaries handed down a decision which, in my opinion, rivaled the judgment of Solomon.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Their decision ran as follows: First, that Mlle. X--had the right to bestow her affections as she desired &amp; preferred. Second, that she could not justly be deprived of clothing, and that Juno alone had the right to appear <HI REND="blockindent"><LB><HI REND="italics">In the simple garment Of beauty recently aroused from sleep</HI>
074.sgm:<P>and as a result B-- would be required to return to her what she needed, that is, her lingerie, stockings, two dresses, a hat, and a bonnet.  Third, all other garments, being deemed superfluous, were to be retained by B--.  This decision was rendered to B-- with all the customary formalities and, since <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Our voyage continued with favorable winds.  Time and again we were within sight of the Brazilian coast.  We came close to land near Montevideo, and saw from afar this second Troy, besieged for the last eight years.  The most delicate, those who had suffered the most upon leaving, now began to grow accustomed to the sea and, despite all the minor inconveniences inevitable on such a journey, our voyage proved quite gay.  And why should we be sad?  Had not each of us elected to pursue the golden phantom called fortune?  During the day, time hung somewhat heavy on our hands, but at night all passengers came up on deck, for to attempt to sleep down below was equivalent to being asphyxiated.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Up on deck Bottin regaled us with stories.  As I have already said, he had a charming personality &amp; everyone liked him as much for his egotism as for the pleasure he gave.  In addition to his talents as story-teller and historian, Bottin was a poet and had even composed songs which were sung to us by a student from the conservatory, Hennecart by name, who was an excellent musician with a fine voice.  After reaching San Francisco he gave several evening concerts that met with signal success at the French theatre on Washington Street.  But after fire destroyed the theatre, the actors left for the mines and Hennecart found a place at a cafe&acute; called The Independence, where he sang for 500 francs a week, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Twice a week, on Thursdays and Sundays, a ball was held.  A section of the deck, which upon departure was crowded with kegs holding water, was automatically cleared as the water was consumed and this afforded deck-space to dance.  A German played the cornet and a Frenchman the fife.  The two instruments and these two musicians comprised our entire orchestra, but this did not deter us from dancing the various national dances of France with all the animation at our command.</P>
074.sgm:<P>With dancing and singing up on deck, our ship reached Cape Horn.  There, through dense fog, Tierra del Fuego was sighted.  The winds were favorable and we skirted the shores at such close range that in the open spaces great water birds were seen walking along the shore.  These creatures stopped to watch us, standing motionless on their long legs.</P>
074.sgm:<P>We killed many petrel and albatross, catching some by fishing, which was far more economical, for in place of using powder and lead, as in hunting, the fishing required only a small piece of pork.  This bait was attached to a hook and suspended on the end of a cord.  The petrel and albatross seized this bit of pork with their usual gluttony and were thus trapped by the hook.  Then they were caught, knocked down, dressed, and soaked in brandy.  By some rare culinary art our master cook succeeded in disguising the taste of the game until it was edible.  Fishing for albatross and petrel replaced in these waters our zealous angling for bonito and dorado in the tropics.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Idly fishing and hunting, we were rounding the cape <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:between land and rocks when suddenly, about nine o'clock one night, the wind that had been favorable veered abruptly and began blowing with considerable force.  Now we had known in advance of this bad passage that lies at the tip of the cape famed for its tempests, &amp; the haunt of the giant Adamastor.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">According to legend, Adamastor appeared at night when the fleet of Vasco da Gama was nearing the Cape of Good Hope, and warned the vessels not to pass his domains.  Since then his name has been synonymous with a stormy cape.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Our hopes were frustrated; the giant saw us, inflated his chest, and began to blow.  His breath strongly resembled a tempest.  We were now forced to reef the royal mast top-sails, haul in the main-sail and proceed carrying only the fore-sail, top-sail, &amp; the small jib.  But within an hour we were forced to take in reefs.  Then, as the storm gained in force, we took in all but the small jib &amp; the large top-sail, both fully reefed, Ten minutes later we were at the full mercy of the seas, and riding before the gale.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The passengers up on deck began to lose courage and demand to be allowed to go below.  Even if they had not made this request, the order would undoubtedly have been issued, for in bad weather nothing annoys the sailors so much as the passengers.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Three-quarters of the passengers had gone below when a violent wave from starboard broke open the hatches.  The waves that had been anticipating just this calamity came in through this opening, and in less than ten minutes two feet of water poured in below decks.  The trunks now began to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The hatch was covered over.  Then the pumps were started.  This time the passengers did not wait for orders to go up on deck.  When they felt the water around their knees, when they saw the trunks, valises, and boxes begin to dance, they scrambled up the ladders, leaving the hatches even more quickly than they had been engulfed.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The captain called all hands to man the pumps.  The situation was critical &amp; every man aboard responded with every ounce of his strength to the task.  Everyone seemed to feel that his neighbor was too weak to work, &amp; insisted on taking a turn.  The women were somewhat frightened at first, but when they found they were not drowned they came back laughing through the water to encourage us.  Night, an intensely black night, was passed in the same way, that is, hanging between life and death, probably a little nearer death than life.  Day finally broke, and with the dawn an east wind returned.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Damages having been repaired, our ship tranquilly resumed her course and by traveling at ten knots made up what time had been lost during the night.  Upon rounding the cape we sighted a three-master; however she was too far away for us to be able to recognize either her build or her flag.  At length we passed out into the Pacific Ocean which was recognized from afar by its waves.  From now on fine weather and favorable winds lasted until we arrived at Valparaiso.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III: VALPARAISO TO SAN FRANCISCO</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>FIFTEEN DAYS before reaching Valparaiso our supply of potatoes ran out.  This shortage was seriously felt.  For them had been substituted a concoction of wheat, brandy, and molasses.  The eight comrades who shared the same tin dish pooled their rations and made a plum-pudding, which was cooked in sacks in boiling water.  But ingenious as man maybe, potatoes do not take the place of bread; neither does plum-pudding replace potatoes.  Valparaiso now seemed to us like the promised land; among every little group was heard only the word: Valparaiso, Valparaiso!  Three months had already been spent on the water, and with Valparaiso once passed, only one-quarter of our journey remained.  The remaining three-quarters was behind us, forgotten, vanished, utterly obliterated by tempests around Cape Horn.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Finally one Tuesday from the crow's nest was heard the cry of `Land, land.'  Each passenger at once verified the truth of this report with his own eyes, then hastened to put on his best clothes, preparatory to landing, and to check over his accounts to find out exactly how much he had left to spend.  Anchor was cast in the main roadstead--that is, some three-quarters of a league off shore.  Soon, leaving Valparaiso with as much zeal as if competing for regatta prizes, were seen a dozen small boats known as whale-boats.  Within fifteen minutes these boats were swarming about our ship.  At the first mention of price by the Chilians who manned these boats, we recognized the crass absurdity of their demands.  They could not, so they said, land us for less than thirty-six sous each,--three reales in Chilian currency.<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">The sou, or halfpenny.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Having keenly argued in behalf of our interests, we finally fixed the price at one real.  Moreover, under these trying circumstances the brotherly spirit on board showed itself at its finest and best.  Those who had money looked at the money in their hands &amp; then smilingly held out their hands to their comrades.  Those who were short the full amount, or those who had nothing, came over &amp; helped themselves from the hands extended by their friends.  The price having been fixed and all now having the amount required to go ashore, pass thirty-six hours on land, and return, we all jumped quickly down into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Mirandole, who was aware of my past experiences, put himself in my charge and refused to leave me.  So we went over to the Hotel du Commerce.  As it was now five o'clock and there was not much to be done that day, we decided to visit the theatre, a magnificent building that had been put up since my last voyage.  This was situated on one of the four sides of the plaza which, if not the most beautiful, is, with its central fountain and its grove of orange-trees as dense as an oak grove and full of golden fruits, at least one of the most delightful places in the world.  In this place, with no other distractions than our day-dreams, refreshed by the evening wind, and inhaling the fragrant odor of oranges, we spent two of the most enjoyable hours of our lives.  Our companions had scattered, however, like so many school-boys out on a holiday, rushing from Fortop to Maintop.  But what are Fortop &amp; Maintop?  From what are these strange names derived?  I know nothing definite about them so I shall confine myself to answering the first question.  Fortop &amp; Maintop are two public dance-halls behind which the hills of Mabrille and Chaumie&grave;re rise.  Fortop and Maintop are to Valparaiso what music-halls are to Amsterdam &amp; the Hague.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:Here are to be found handsome Chilian women with olive complexions, large well-formed black eyes, shapely temples, and sleek, glossy-black hair, who are clad in bright-colored silks cut de&acute;collete&acute; down to the waist.  Here polkas &amp; <HI REND="italics">chillas</HI>
074.sgm:<P>The night was passed waiting for day to dawn.  The delights of the dance were superseded, the following morning, by the delights of riding.  The Frenchman, especially the Parisian, is a born horseman; he has made a study of this art and has practiced on the donkeys of mother Champaign at Montmorency, and on the horses of Ravelet, at Saint Germain.  The captain, in giving us shore leave on Tuesday evening, had warned the passengers to be ready to depart the following Thursday.  The signal for returning was to be the tri-colored French flag and the red flag flying at the foremast.  Five hours would still remain from the time the red flag was hoisted aloft.  But it was not until Thursday morning that it would be necessary to watch anxiously for the red or tri-colored flag.  Wednesday was entirely our own, from one evening to the next, a full twenty-four hours; in other words, a moment or an eternity based on whether pleasure or grief marks the passing of time.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Our main amusement for that day was to be a ride along the Santiago road, running from Valparaiso over to Avigny.  Those who did not have funds enough to hire horses remained behind in the city.  I was among those spend thrifts who, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Along the road we saw grotesque clowns, mounted on horses like the pygmies of German and Scotch ballads, pass at close range.  These proved to be magnificent Chilian riders wearing trousers split, buttoned, &amp; embroidered from where the leather is split down to the end of the boot and worn over other trousers of silk, small round vests, elegant ponchos, broad-brimmed, pointed hats, trimmed with silver galloon on their heads, carrying lassos in their hands, and sabers and pistols in their belts.  All were traveling along at a lively gallop in saddles embroidered in striking colors, on which they held their seats as firmly as if in arm-chairs.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The trip soon came to an end.  We had the appearance, in our impatience to be on the move, of attempting to outride time; and yet, without losing a moment, these indifferent hours moved on in their customary way.  In the morning our horses were fresh and in good wind; during the middle of the day they were panting and subdued; in the evening they were sad and dejected.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The women who accompanied us everywhere were even more enthusiastic, more adventuresome, and more indefatigable than the men.  Bottin was fairly bursting with energy, jokes, and gayety.  Forming into small groups, we went in for dinner.  Wherever a man travels with a party, he has his own circle of friends, those toward whom he is lukewarm, and his enemies.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The following day, Thursday, by eight o'clock in the morning everyone was down at the docks.  There we saw the red flag, and were informed that it had been up approximately two hours.  Three hours still remained.  Only three more hours; how quickly these pass for travelers who have but three hours more on shore.  Each of us utilized to the full these three hours.  Those who had funds left seized this chance to lay in a supply of what the Chilians call fruit-bread.  This bread made of fruits is, as the name indicates, a concoction of dried fruits.  These when sold are cut into thin slices, and have the shape of a round cheese.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At ten-thirty we hired for one real the same boats that had taken our party ashore.  Our group was now taken back to the ship and, upon arriving, each one reinstated himself in his or her corner.  Precisely at two o'clock anchor was hoisted and sail raised; the wind was perfect.  By dusk, land had dropped from sight.  Ahead of us were a Sardinian brig and an English three-master which we rapidly outdistanced.  We left behind lying at anchor the French frigate L'Alge&acute;rie; she had one of our sailors aboard who had been placed there in service, owing to some trouble he had with an officer.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Since few persons understand this essentially maritime expression, `placed in service,' a brief explanation will be given.  When a sailor proves unruly aboard a merchant vessel, if the captain meets a warship and if he wishes to get rid of a sailor, he `places' him in service.  In other words, any sailor whom he refuses to keep because of incorrigibility can be turned over to the government.  The sailor thus passes, at the whim of the captain, from a merchant ship over to the navy.  This, it must be conceded, is an unfortunate way of securing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The breeze was strong and the sea rough and, as we had spent forty hours ashore, seasickness now overtook those least acclimated to the pitching of our vessel.  The women in general--and I, in turn, must repeat the same remark that others have made before me--the women endured this long and tiresome voyage far better than the men.  Up until that time, oddly enough, we had not had among our 150 passengers aboard, a single case of sickness, nor even an accident.  From this fortunate situation, however we were soon cruelly to be awakened.  We had just passed Panama&acute;, crossed the line in the opposite direction from which we had passed before, and were sailing ahead under a mild breeze with all sails set, even to the studding-sails, but actually, as a matter of fact, not traveling over four or five knots an hour--which was quite remarkable considering the calms usually experienced out in these waters--when suddenly near the seventeenth parallel was heard the hideous cry, `Man overboard!'</P>
074.sgm:<P>On warships provision is made for just such emergencies.  Buoys are provided and a man is always ready to handle the pulleys of the small boats, which have only to be lowered by their ropes. So, provided the water is not rough, or a man does not know how to swim, only in rare instances is there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>`Bottin's fallen in,' I called.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Now Bottin was so generally beloved that at his name I am certain everyone put forth added energy.  By this time one of the main yards had already been hurled in off the stern of the vessel.  Bottin had been washing his clothes--we were all, as can be readily understood, our own laundry-men--and had decided to dry his linen out on the shrouds.  In so doing his foot had slipped, and he had fallen unobserved into the ocean.  Upon hearing his one cry the helms-man had looked back and observing a man appear in the wake of the vessel had, without knowing who this man was, uttered the cry that had struck terror to our hearts, the cry, `Man overboard!'</P>
074.sgm:<P>I was not mistaken.  At the words, `It's Bottin!' captain &amp; passengers realized that they must immediately unfasten the yawl which was now lowered over the deck into the water.  An officer and an assistant flung themselves--how I do not know--into the yawl.  Simultaneously, the captain ordered the ship to be brought about, allowing the three sails to remain flapping idly.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Under these conditions the accident should not have been very serious; the weather was superb and Bottin an excellent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>At first I believed a wave had covered him and that, once the wave had passed, he would reappear.  The two men in the boat shared my belief for they continued to row ahead.  But after a short time I saw them stop, look anxiously around, stand up, shield their eyes with their hands, search everywhere, turn in our direction as if to consult us, then again scan the boundless depths.  The expanse of the sea was unbroken; nothing reappeared.  Our poor friend Bottin must have been snatched by a shark.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Of the nature of his death there was little room for doubt.  He was far too good a swimmer to disappear so suddenly.  Even men who do not know how to swim come up twice or three times before finally sinking.  For over two hours a search was made near where he had last been seen.  The captain could not bring himself to recall the yawl; the lieutenant and the seaman were reluctant to return.  At length it seemed advisable to proceed on our journey; the signal of recall was given, and the yawl came sadly back, towing in the yard-arm that she had in the meanwhile rescued.  There was heavy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV: SAN FRANCISCO</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>ON JANUARY 5, 1850, despite a heavy fog a sailor who was engaged in furling a sail cried, `Land!' Throughout the sixth, however, a futile search was made for the bay, which had been passed.  Not until the morning of the seventh was its entrance finally located.  But during the sixth the fog lifted, enabling us to form some idea of the aspect of the country.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The land appeared to rise gently in the form of an amphitheatre.  On its first level were visible herds of deer and cattle grazing peacefully in fields of emerald-like greenness.  They seemed as unperturbed as if the world had just been created.  On the lowest level were grass and pastures, but no trees; on the second appeared firs of great height and thickness and, here and there, groups of hazelnut and laurel trees.  Over the third towered the crests of mountains, culminating in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>We now put out to sea in order to pass a restful night, for we were so surrounded by ships led astray, like ourselves, and also searching for the bay that there was danger of running afoul after dark.  Though remote from danger of collision, yet we did not fail to hang a ship's lantern out on the end of the flying-jib.  We were at peace with the world--a peace marked by graveness and contentment--for the world that we were about to enter was a totally foreign world.  At Valparaiso we had secured a certain amount of information that was vague because of its remoteness,--in other words, what information we received was both favorable &amp; unfavorable.</P>
074.sgm:<P>On the morning of the seventh, preparations to disembark were made.  No longer, as at Valparaiso, did we plan to seek in the city a few hours of capricious distractions or foolish pleasures, we were about to seek work, and--what is the rarest thing in the world--remuneration for our labor.  So the calmest man among us would have lied had he said that he slept soundly.  I, for my part, awoke ten times or more during the night.  On the seventh, long before daybreak, everyone was up on deck.</P>
074.sgm:<P>When the sun rose we could see land, but this was still so remote that the entrance to the bay was not even visible.  From five o'clock in the morning until noon, we ran before a quartering wind.  Not until noon, were the head lands that formed its opening for the first time faintly visible.  On the right side of the bay appeared two rocks, cut through at their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:base but connected on top, a formation that had created an arch.  All along the shores glistened sand, white as silver-dust.  Only at Fort Williams did the greenness begin to appear.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">Probably Fort Point.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Soon our attention was diverted from the left coast, where there was only, as at Sauroleta, a small bay where a few ships rode at anchor, and centered on the right side.  We were now approaching Fort Williams.  Having passed Fort Williams, two islands hove into view--Angel and Deer islands.  On our right were soon visible a few buildings like those of a farm.  These had verdure around them, but not a single tree.  This was the presidio.<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">This old Spanish presidio, founded on September 17, 1776, was a low adobe structure called Castillo de Joaqui&acute;n.  The Americans re-named it Fort Montgomery.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>On the highest hill towered the telegraph, with its long black-&amp;-white arms, arms always in movement to announce the arrival of vessels.  Below the telegraph were a few wooden houses and about fifty tents.  Opposite the telegraph lay the first anchorage.<ANCHOR ID="n4-3">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: Here out in the open air was a lazar-house where quarantine inspection was held.  Inasmuch as our ship had not touched at any country under suspicion, once having passed quarantine, permission was received to disembark.  Several members of our society at once took advantage of this to land and locate a place suitable to erect tents.  These tents had to be made of sheets.  The promised houses failed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-3">Yerba Buena anchorage off the foot of Market Street.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>This locality, which was soon discovered, proved ideal.  At dawn the following morning, acting on the advice given by our friends, we took pick-axes and shovels, went ashore, and prepared immediately to locate.  It was on January eighth, at eight o'clock in the morning, that we first alighted in California, having landed in a sloop belonging to one of our fellow-countrymen who had placed it at the disposal of our company.  We deposited our effects at the base of French Camp.  In my purse I had one sou, and one centime; and I was in debt ten francs to one of my comrades.  This was my entire fortune--but I had finally reached California.  A word now about this land which had in store for us so many disillusionizing experiences.</P>
074.sgm:<P>There are two Californias, the old and the new California.  The old, which still belongs to Mexico, is bathed on the east by the Vermillion Sea, which derives its name from the exquisite shades of its waters at sunrise and sunset, and on the west and south by the Pacific Ocean.  On the north, by an isthmus some twenty-two leagues broad, it joins New California.  Corte&acute;s was its discoverer.  Not far from the Mexican capital which, on August 13, 1521, the Spaniards had recently conquered, the adventuresome captain, who had had two caravels constructed, took command of the expedition &amp;, on May 1, 1535, reached the west coast of the great peninsula.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>What is the derivation of the name California, that has endured since the day of its discovery?  Does it come from the work of Bernal Diaz of Castille, companion-at-arms and historian of Hernando Corte&acute;s?<ANCHOR ID="n4-4">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: Does it come, as some say, from <HI REND="italics">Calida Fornax</HI>
074.sgm:; or, as Father Venegas believes, from some Indian word with which the first conquerors might have been unfamiliar or might have neglected to transmit the meaning.<ANCHOR ID="n4-5">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-4"><HI REND="italics">Histori&acute;a Verdadera de la Conquista de la Nueva Espan&tilde;a</HI>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-5">The Latin term, <HI REND="italics">Calida Fornax</HI>
074.sgm:, means fiery furnace.  In <HI REND="italics">Las Sergas de Esplandian</HI>
074.sgm:<P>The ancient capital of this land was Loreto, a town that does not number at the present more than 300 inhabitants.  The capital is now San Antonio Real, which has a population of approximately 800.<ANCHOR ID="n4-6">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: The entire population of this peninsula, which is about 200 leagues long, does not exceed 6,000 souls.  New California, called by the English &amp; the Americans Upper California, is situated between 32&deg; and 42&deg; n. lat. and 110&deg; and 127&deg; w. long.  From north to south the distance is 250 leagues, and from east to west 300 leagues.<ANCHOR ID="n4-7">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-6">San Antonio Real was nothing more than a mining camp; the capital was La Paz.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-7">The old Spanish league was 2.63 miles.  California is 780 miles long and 150 to 350 miles wide.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>New California, like the old, was discovered by Spaniards, or rather by a Portuguese, in the service of Spain.  This Portuguese was Juan Rodri&acute;guez Cabrillo, who departed on January 27, 1542, to attempt definitely to locate the famous passage that, forty-one years earlier, Gaspar de Corteseal believed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:he had discovered through North America.<ANCHOR ID="n4-8">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-8">Cabrillo sailed North from Natividad on June 27, 1542 to search for the so-called Straits of Anian.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>On March 10, 1543, Juan Rodri&acute;guez Cabrillo discovered the large Cape Mendocino, naming it Mendoza in honor of the Mexican viceroy of the same name.<ANCHOR ID="n4-9">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-9">Cabrillo's ships passed Cape Mendocino in November, 1542.  Probably not so-named until later.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Twenty years later, Philip III, casting covetous eyes on this fine land of which he had heard marvelous reports, issued orders to the Conde de Monterey, viceroy of Mexico, to colonize this new country.  For this expedition, the viceroy selected one of his bravest and most seasoned mariners.  This mariner was called Sebastian Vizcai&acute;no.  Leaving Acapu&acute;lco on March 5, 1602, Vizcai&acute;no sailed up the coast, exploring as far as Cape Mendocino.<ANCHOR ID="n4-10">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-10">Vizcai&acute;no's departure was on May 5, 1602.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Hypolite Ferry, in his scholarly work on California, cites the following passage which he extracts from the records of the expedition of Sebastian Vizcai&acute;no.<ANCHOR ID="n4-11">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-11">Ferry left a volume entitled <HI REND="italics">Description de la Nouvelle Californie</HI>
074.sgm:<P>`The climate of this country is mild,' observes the admiral of Philip III, `the soil, covered with vegetation, is extremely fertile; the country is well-populated; the natives are so human &amp; so docile that it would be simple to convert them to the Christian faith &amp; make them subjects of the Spanish crown.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>The aforesaid Sebastian Vizcai&acute;no, having questioned the Indians and many others whom he found along the shores over a long stretch of the coast, ascertained from them that on beyond their country were several extensive villages and quantities of gold and silver, reports that made him believe great riches might be discovered in these regions.  Despite this report, Spain was never cognizant of the immense value of her colony, and was satisfied merely to send governors and missionaries who were protected by military establishments which, even now, are termed presidios.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Gradually the Indians became detached, one by one, from the parent stem; some were conquered by the English or Dutch; others formed empires or independent kingdoms.  This same thing occurred with the Republic of Mexico; to this power were united the two Californias.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But before long the inefficient administration of the Mexican republic began to estrange her provinces.  Texas, who had declared her independence in 1836, proposed to Congress, on April 12, 1844, a treaty of annexation to the United States.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:This treaty, at first refused by the United States, on December 22, 1845, was definitely adopted by the two houses.<ANCHOR ID="n4-12">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-12">Texas was admitted into the Union under a joint resolution of Congress adopted on March 1, 1845.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>On May 7, 1846, the two armies met on the plains of Palo Alto.<ANCHOR ID="n4-13">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: A fight ensued; the Mexicans, defeated, retreated across the Rio Grande, &amp; over to the city of Matamoros.  Then, on May eighteenth, Matamoros capitulated.  At this time the Americans had sent out Commodore John Sloat with a fleet to wage war along the coast, while General Taylor was campaigning in the interior.  On July 6, 1846, the American fleet captured Monterey, the capital of New California.<ANCHOR ID="n4-14">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-13">The battle of Palo Alto was fought on May eighth.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-14">On July seventh Monterey capitulated.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>By the close of the year, the American land forces had occupied the provinces of New Mexico, Tamaulipas, Nuevo Leon, and Coahuila; while the sea forces had captured California.  While marching toward Mexico, General Taylor proclaimed the immense provinces through which he passed to be conquered by the American government, announcing that they had joined the united provinces.</P>
074.sgm:<P>On February 22, 1847, the two opposing forces again clashed in Nuevo Leon, between the southern extremity of the Verde Mountains, and the sources of the Leon, on the plain of Buena Vista.  The Americans had a force of 3,400 infantry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>In somewhat similar vein General Taylor wrote to Congress.  Congress at Washington voted nine regiments of volunteers &amp; to every volunteer who served a year in the Mexican war, promised to grant a tract of 160 acres of land or a pension of 100 dollars bearing 6 per cent interest.  By the same law the pay of the men in the regular army who were receiving forty-five francs a month was raised.  To defray the expense of this war, additional paper to the amount of $28,000,000 was also issued.  The American squadron was to seize Vera Cruz, as it had seized Monterey, Vera Cruz being the key to Mexico.</P>
074.sgm:<P>On March 22, 1849, an army of 12,000 men reinforced by Commodore Perry's squadron, laid siege to Vera Cruz &amp; the bombardment commenced.  After a siege of five days, the city capitulated, and with it the chateau of San Juan de Ulloa.<ANCHOR ID="n4-15">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-15">The siege of Vera Cruz lasted from March 7 to March 29, 1847.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>The Mexican army, a force of 10,000 men under General Santa Anna, awaited him two days beyond Vera Cruz in the pass of Cerro Gordo, a veritable Thermopyl&aelig; where the Mexican army was destined to meet its fate.  The route was broken by a gorge from behind which a formidable artillery stood ready to belch forth fire.  From base to summit the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>General Scott now marched on Puebla, which he occupied.  He was now only about twenty-eight leagues from Mexico City.  Then, with only 6,000 men he captured the city with its 60,000 inhabitants. On August nineteenth and twentieth he seized the strongholds of Contreras &amp; Churubusco.  On September thirteenth General Scott attacked the positions of Chapultepec and Molino del Rey.  Finally, on September 16, 1847, the Americans, victorious in all their encounters, entered the capital of Mexico.<ANCHOR ID="n4-16">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: On February 2, 1848, after three months of negotiations, peace was signed between Mexico &amp; the United States, by which New Mexico and New California were to be ceded for $15,000,000 to the United States.<ANCHOR ID="n4-17">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: The United States was further obligated to satisfy the claims to the amount of $5,000,000 held against Mexico by Texan or American subjects.<ANCHOR ID="n4-18">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-16">On September thirteenth Mexico City was captured &amp; the war terminated.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-17">The treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo; Texas was also included.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-18">These claims totalled $3,250,000.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The exchange of ratifications took place on May 3, 1848.  On the fourteenth of the following August, the American Congress voted to extend to the people of California the benefits of the laws of the Union.  They were just in time; England was already bargaining with Mexico for California, and Mexico probably would never have ceded this if, at this moment as we shall see, the Americans themselves had not been occupying this country.</P>
074.sgm:<P>While Generals Scott and Taylor were seizing Mexico, here is what was occurring in California.  In 1845, the white population of California, numbering approximately 10,000, had revolted against Mexico and placed at its head a Californian, named Pico.<ANCHOR ID="n4-19">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: To this movement had rallied three leaders of the former government--Vallejo, Castro, and Alvarado.<ANCHOR ID="n4-20">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-19">Pio Pico subsequently became the last Mexican Governor of California.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-20">Mariano Vallejo of Sonoma, Jose&acute; Castro, &amp; ex-governor Juan B.Alvarado.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>General Micheltorena, governor of the country representing Mexico, marched against the insurgents.<ANCHOR ID="n4-21">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-21">Manuel Micheltorena was brigadier-general of the Mexican army and governor of California from 1842 to 1845.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>The insurgents, subsequently regarding this country as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>At this time, on the banks of the Rio Grande at the foot of Mt.Ana&acute;huac in New Mexico, was an American officer in command of a regiment of dragoons, named Stephen W. Kearny.  With eyes turned toward California, he was beginning to be pertubed about serious complications to which American residents living out in this country might be exposed, when he received an order from Congress to cross the mountains, travel down along the banks of the Colorado River, &amp; proceed with his regiment across the unknown deserts of the Ajoutas Indians by way of Lake Nicolet to aid the operations of the American squadron &amp; protect the United States citizens located in that territory.<ANCHOR ID="n4-22">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-22">Probably the land of the Apache Indians.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>This was one of those orders issued by governments in their ignorance of localities, that are impossible of execution by those receiving them.  In fact, it was impossible to handle an entire regiment in so isolated a region, a land which was the haunt merely of trappers and Indians.  Colonel Kearny, taking 100 men, started off with them for California, leaving the balance of his regiment on the banks of the Rio Grande del Norte.</P>
074.sgm:<P>In another section of the country off towards Lake Pyramid, north of New Helvetia, another American officer, Captain Fre&acute;mont, of the corps of topographical engineers, was exploring California.<ANCHOR ID="n4-23">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: Finding himself in the midst of the insurrection, after organizing and assembling a small army <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-23">This was John C. Fre&acute;mont, in command of a party of trappers and frontiersmen, ostensibly on an exploring expedition.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>During the general insurrection there broke out at the same time a minor insurrection.  These new insurgents assumed the cognomen of bears.  Their standard was known as the Bear Flag--the symbol of the bear.  These bears marched on Sonoma, a small village situated at the northern extremity of the bay of San Francisco, and seized the fort.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Castro, one of the leaders of the first uprising, marched to Sonoma ignorant of the fact that on his flank Captain Fre&acute;mont, having left his position at the Buttes, was moving in the same direction.  The two advance-guards--Californian and Mexican--met just below the fort.  The American advance-guard had a force of some ninety men; the Californian advance-guard numbered approximately seventy men.  Captain Fre&acute;mont attacked the enemy's advance-guard, scattered it, and mached on the fort, seizing it with all its equipment.  The Americans had now reached San Francisco Bay. From this point they took possession of the village, populated almost entirely by Americans.</P>
074.sgm:<P>During the month of October, 1846, Captain Fre&acute;mont, learning that Commodore Stockton had anchored off San Francisco, went over with 180 volunteers to join him, leaving a garrison at the Fort at Sonoma.  Commodore Stockton ordered his scanty forces to embark and proceed to Monterey, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>In the meantime, the American consul, Mr. O. Larkin, returning from Monterey to San Francisco, was taken prisoner by one of the bands of Californians who patrolled the country.<ANCHOR ID="n4-24">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-24">Thomas O. Larkin, special United States agent residing at Monterey.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>In the meanwhile, after enduring unbelievable fatigue and suffering time and again for the lack of prime essentials, Colonel Kearny, with his 100 men, marched over the Rocky Mountains, crossed the sandy plains of the Navajo Indians, passed the Colorado, &amp;, after traveling through the lands of the Mohave &amp; Yuma Indians finally reached Agua Caliente.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Upon arriving he fell in with a small troop of Americans, commanded by Captain Gillespie, who told him definitely what was taking place in California and warned him that ahead of him was a troop of seven or eight hundred men commanded by General Andre&acute;s Pico, who was in control of the country.  Colonel Kearny counted his men.  There were only 180 all told, but they were resolute and well-disciplined soldiers.  He then gave the order to march on the enemy.  Americans and Californians clashed on December sixth out on the plain of San Pasqual.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The engagement was terrific; for a time the small American forces were defeated and nearly routed.  Ultimately, however, they were victorious.  Colonel Kearny, who from then on was made general, received two wounds, and had two captains, one lieutenant, two sergeants, two corporals, and ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:dragoons killed.  The Californians, on the other hand, lost two or three hundred soldiers.<ANCHOR ID="n4-25">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-25">This is exaggerated.  The losses of the Californians were probably slight.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>The following day, a detachment of marines sent by Commodore Stockton joined Kearny whom they had been sent out to meet.  Thus reinforced they continued to march on toward the north.  On December eighth and ninth, he had two more clashes with the Californians but in these engagements, as in the first battle, he emerged victorious.  At the same time Castro, now a fugitive, encountered Captain Fre&acute;mont, and after being surrounded by him, capitulated.  A few Californian troops still remained in the vicinity of Los Angeles.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Early in 1847, Captain Fre&acute;mont joined forces with General Kearny.  Their combined forces then marched on to Los Angeles where the insurgents, on January ninth and tenth, clashed; on the thirteenth, Fre&acute;mont &amp; Kearny entered Los Angeles.  California was now conquered.<ANCHOR ID="n4-26">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-26">The capitulation of Cahuenga, ending the war, was signed January 13, 1847.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>V: CAPTAIN SUTTER</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>AT THE time the treaty was signed between the United States &amp; Mexico, whereby, for the sum of $15,000,000, Mexico ceded to the United States, New Mexico and New California, there was living in California a man of Swiss descent, John Augustus Sutter, who had been a captain in the royal guards during the revolution of 1830 &amp; who, after the revolution was over, had decided to go out &amp; seek his fortune in America.<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: After a sojourn of several years in Missouri, in 1836 he left there for Oregon, a country whose resources were just beginning to be noised abroad and into which, since 1832, a few emigrants had been gradually penetrating.  Mr. Sutter crossed the Rocky Mountains, traveled over the plains inhabited by the Nez-Perce&acute;s, the Snake, and the Coeur-d'Ale&circ;ne Indians, and arrived at Fort Vancouver.  From there he sailed over to the Sandwich Islands, finally settling in 1839 in California.  Inasmuch as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">John Augustus Sutter was an internationally known figure and one of the most famous men in California.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>The Mexican government further conferred on Mr. Sutter unlimited jurisdiction over his entire district, both for the administration of justice &amp; for the direction of civil &amp; military affairs.  Two miles from the Sacramento Mr. Sutter selected a little hill on which to establish a residence.  This residence was to be not merely a house; it was to be a fort.</P>
074.sgm:<P>By negotiating with a tribal chieftain he was guaranteed an unlimited supply of workmen.  He paid them definite wages, that is, he agreed to supply them with suitable food &amp; to pay them in materials &amp; hardware.  These were the men who dug the trenches for Fort Sutter, made the bricks and erected the walls.  After the fort was built, Sutter recognized the need for a garrison.  This garrison was recruited among the natives.  Fifty Indians were given uniforms, disciplined and instructed in military tactics.  They guarded the fort with the same fidelity &amp; certainly more alertly than European troops could have done.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This fort was made the pretext for a small city called from the name of its founder, Sutterville.  In 1848 this city, or rather the nucleus of this city, consisted of a dozen houses.  Sutterville lies approximately two miles from the fort.  Mr. Sutter brought into California nearly all our European fruit-trees, and devoted several hectares of land to their cultivation.<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: Vines grew especially well and yielded extra fine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">The seeds of fruits and vegetables were brought into California mainly by the mission Fathers, and by La Perouse, an early French traveler.  The hectare is 2.47 acres.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Now the mines of Potosi&acute; were discovered by an Indian who went up into the mountains in pursuit of some cattle who had escaped from the main herd.  The discovery of the mines along the Sacramento was also the result of a coincidence.  Mr. Sutter was in need of planks for construction work; approximately 1,000 feet above the Sacramento Valley grew a remarkably vigorous kind of pine that Mr. Sutter believed would be suitable to supply him with what planks he needed.  By a mechanic named Marshall, he arranged to have constructed to handle the pines, a saw-mill turned by a water-wheel.<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3">James W. Marshall, a workman at Sutter's Fort.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Upon visiting the saw-mill to find out whether the waterfall had operated in accordance with his expectations, Mr. Marshall discovered in the accumulated sands some brilliant particles which he collected and whose value he soon recognized.<ANCHOR ID="n5-4">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: These brilliant bits were pure gold.  Mr. Marshall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-4">Gold was discovered at Coloma on January 24, 1848.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>In the beginning this was only a vague rumor, only an intermittent sound, but this was adequate to lure the more adventure-loving inhabitants of San Francisco and Monterey.  Soon the official reports of Colonel Mason, of the alcalde of Monterey, of Captain Folsom, and of the French consul, Mr. Moerenhaut were published.<ANCHOR ID="n5-5">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-5">The reports of Colonel Richard B. Mason of the United States Army; of Walter Colton, alcalde of Monterey; of Captain Joseph L. Folsom; and Mr. Moerenhaut, of Monterey were circulated throughout the United States and Europe.  See Chapter XX, notes 1, 2, 3, and 4.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Here is the ratio at which the population was on the increase in California.  In 1802, the savant Humboldt, upon compiling statistics, found 1,300 white colonists &amp; 15,562 Indian converts in California.  In 1842, Duflot de Mofras made a second tabulation; &amp; from 1,300, the colonists had increased to 5,000.<ANCHOR ID="n5-6">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: At the same time, the number of Indians scattered throughout the interior was estimated at 40,000.  Early in 1848, the white population totalled 14,000; the native <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-6">Duflot de Mofras was sent out by the French government to investigate conditions on the Pacific Coast.  His <HI REND="italics">Exploration</HI>
074.sgm:<P>This is the law of compensation: The Orient is depopulated for the benefit of the Occident; the birth of San Francisco compensates for the death of Constantinople.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VI: I BECOME A PORTER</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>WE ARRIVED in port, as I have said, on the eighth at eight o'clock in the morning.  Our first day we passed building embankments, and erecting tents.  Four of us went out to look for stakes, some moved dirt, while others constructed tents.  I was among the latter.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Of the women, thirteen out of fifteen left immediately for San Francisco where, no matter how impatient they might be to arrive, they were even more impatiently awaited.  In fact there were at that very moment in San Francisco, I believe, only about 20 women to 80,000 or 100,000 men.  So several ships had left to bring some up from Chile.  I have always regretted not having watched to see what happened when our thirteen passengers arrived in San Francisco.  Five or six of them did not even go so far as an hotel.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Toward noon the day of my arrival I found my old friend Tillier; he had arrived fifteen days ahead of me &amp; was living at French Camp.  Naturally we renewed our friendship with the utmost pleasure, and I shared his cabin until such a time as mine was finished. He was a porter down at the docks.</P>
074.sgm:<P>One of our members had his wife with him; and as she was in charge of the culinary department she sent one of us out after supplies, giving advice about current prices.  Our messenger brought back beef to make soup.  To have soup was our one ambition; for this was what we had especially missed throughout our voyage.  Beef, fortunately, had dropped one-half in price; from five francs it had gone down to fifty centimes a pound.  Of our supplies, some sugar and coffee still remained.  What our messengers reported was that current prices of all commodities had soared.  Bread varied from twenty-five to thirty centimes a pound; however, so we were told, this had recently been worth one piaster.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">Both the Spanish piaster and the American dollar were legal tender in San Francisco.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>On Portsmouth Square The El Dorado house had cost 5,500,000 francs to build.  This house took in rentals 625,000 francs each month.  This is readily understood by explaining that a bricklayer receives from 40 to 60, and a carpenter from 80 to 100 francs daily.  Land that was being granted almost gratuitously by the government only six or eight months before our arrival was valued, at the beginning of 1850, at from 100,000 to 150,000 francs for a piece 100 feet square.  We saw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>This same ratio held true with all things, both large and small.  Much joking went the rounds about the poor egg-merchant who, watching a seller of marrons make a fortune crying, `Marrons from Lyon,' was induced to cry, `Fresh eggs from Lyon.'  This merchant may have made his fortune at San Francisco, where eggs just over from France sold for five francs.  A story was told about two Gruye&grave;re cheeses, that has become almost proverbial in San Francisco; since these were the only Gruye&grave;re cheeses that had ever reached port, they belonged to the aristocracy and sold for as much as thirteen francs a pound.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Two boatmen with their skiff received 200 francs for six hours.  A pair of sea-boots that reached up above the knees, indispensable articles for walking during the rainy season in the low sections of the city, were worth in winter from 200 to 250 francs, and 100 to 150 francs in the summer season.  Physicians were numerous; the majority, however, were charlatans who had been forced to take up other professions.  Only three or four had a good reputation and a good following; for professional calls they charged from 45 to 100 francs a visit.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Instances may be cited where almost unbelievable fortunes have been made.  Several of our own countrymen who arrived shortly before us with from 100 to 2000 francs in their pockets had, by the time of our arrival, an income of 25,000 francs, not annually, but monthly.  All this was in addition <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Of the members of our association twenty-five now remained, four having left the first day for the mines.  These were the men who had funds.  That reports at Valparaiso had been so conflicting was not at all surprising.  Even at San Francisco it was difficult to decide on what to rely.  The nearest placers, that is, those of the San Joaqui&acute;n River, were a ten or twelve days' trip from the city.  Despite the conflicting rumors that were noised abroad, nevertheless how to go about searching for gold was still the main topic of conversation.  Moreover, as we were about to depart for the mines we were harassed by all that would be needed and realized how large an expenditure, even with the utmost economy, was required to be able to ascend the Sacramento or the San Joaquin and become a miner.  This is why I say that only the richest men dared start off for the placers.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Now I was not classed among the men of wealth; I have already revealed to the world at large my financial condition.  The problem, then, was how to earn what funds were needed for the journey.  Luckily in Tillier who had arrived, as I have said, fifteen days in advance, I had an excellent friend to initiate me into local conditions in California.  We remained for four days at French Camp, occupied mainly in arranging our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Our first task had been to chop wood in the forests lying on the road to the mission, and sell it.  We found a merchant who would purchase this for 90 piasters the cord, approximately 700 francs.  The wood was of young oak that burned readily.  This wood was carried in on hand-barrows, after being cut and sawed.  Anyone was permitted to cut wood.  This forest, with the exception of a few little trees that seem to linger on to indicate what these forests once were, is no longer in existence.  These same groves now comprise the gardens of the few houses that are just beginning to spring up along the road leading to the mission; one of these days they will be out in the suburbs of the city.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Our organization, as already observed, had lasted just four days; by the end of this period we had earned 100 francs apiece--enough to enable us to live.  After this first group had disbanded, every man separated his tent and his belongings from the belongings and tents of his comrades, and started off to make a fortune as best he could.  I decided to follow in Tillier's footsteps and his advice was to become a porter like himself.  So, being young and vigorous, I went out with my hand-cart and braces to station myself by the corner of a building at the port.  This proved, moreover, an excellent occupation for, thanks to the stream of new arrivals, business was flourishing.  Tillier and I carried small loads by means of our straps and large loads on our hand-carts.  On certain days whereas at such a task I might have earned perhaps five or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The Californian has coined the proverb, `There is no menial task.'  I have seen doctors sweeping the streets, and lawyers washing down the decks of vessels.  No one is ashamed of this, but shakes hands when meeting friends, and laughs.  Everyone leaving for San Francisco should provide a fund of philosophy akin to that of Lazarillo de Tormes and of Gil Blas.<ANCHOR ID="n6-2">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-2"><HI REND="italics">Lazarillo de Tormes</HI>
074.sgm:, a Spanish prose epic, by Mendoza, was published in 1554.  The French writer, Le Sage, in his <HI REND="italics">Gil Blas</HI>
074.sgm:<P>I was now living on five or six piasters daily--thirty or thirty-five francs, a niggardly allowance.  But I had a goal to attain.  This goal was to save enough for our departure.  Invariably I had been confident that the true El Dorado lay at the placers.  Within two months I had put away nearly 400 piasters--slightly more than 2,000 francs.  Tillier, who had arrived fifteen days before me, had accumulated about 200 piasters more.  During the two months I was a porter I had had ample time to go about and inspect the city.</P>
074.sgm:<P>How the city of San Francisco sprang up has already been told.  Let us now describe it as it was when we reached there; inotherwords, less than eighteen months after its foundation.  At the time of our arrival California had a population, both at San Francisco &amp; at the mines, estimated at 120,000 men.  Our party, as has been said, increased by fifteen the feminine population.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Already in this new world as in the old, where superfluity seems always to form the advance guard of necessity, several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:theatres had been constructed.  Of these, one, which has been mentioned, was up on Washington Street, &amp; here Hennecart had an engagement.  To produce comedy in that hall, there was lacking at the time our ship came in, only one thing--actors.  Fortunately the same ship that was carrying Mr. Jacques Arago, who remained at Valparaiso as the result of a little disturbance, also brought an actor named Delamarre.  Mr. Delamarre started out by engaging two women; one of them arrived on board the <HI REND="italics">Suffren</HI>
074.sgm:; the other came on the <HI REND="italics">Cachalot</HI>
074.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Cachalot</HI>
074.sgm:, as will be recalled, was our vessel.  The first of these women was known as Hortense; the second, Juliette.  Having formed this first nucleus, he recruited actors wherever possible and, one month after our arrival, his troupe was fairly well organized.  Until that time the theatre had been used only for masked balls, patterned after those held at <HI REND="italics">L'Opera</HI>
074.sgm:<P>However, there was one institution that, despite the efforts of theatre-owners to open their doors to the public and their windows to outside breezes, took precedence over concerts, masked balls and performances.  These were the gambling houses.  No sooner had gold been discovered than a way had to be devised to get rid of it.  Gambling provided the means <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
074.sgm:<P>The term gold-dust has been used deliberately, for only on rare occasions were the stakes gold or silver currency.  In such houses men actually played with mountains of gold.  At both ends of the table stood scales for weighing gold-dust.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The entire feminine population of San Francisco came to these houses to risk, during the evening, their earnings of the day; they were noted for their zealous gambling and the indifference with which they accepted losses.  Absolute equality reigned; bankers and porters rubbed shoulders at the same tables.  Here, too, were the bars--long counters over which liquor was sold.  All small glasses, all demi-tasses, all cherry or prime brandy sold for two reales Chilian currency--that is, one franc and twenty-five centimes.  Musicians were stationed in the room and gave concerts from the morning hours until ten o'clock at night.  At ten o'clock, their day being over, they departed.  The tired players then rested, while a select few cut one another's throats.  The women, as has been said, distinguished themselves by their incessant gambling &amp; their philosophic manner of accepting losses.  At this time the feminine population was daily &amp; rapidly on the increase.</P>
074.sgm:<P>That ships were constantly leaving to bring in more women has already been mentioned.  Here was a slave-trade of a new sort; one for which no legal provision had been made in the case of ships entering port.  Vessels would cast anchor at the most thickly populated places along the coast of South America from Cape Blanc to Valdivia, where appeals were sent out to pretty women whose love of an adventure lured them to try their fortune in California.  Moreover in these countries pretty, attractive women speaking Spanish were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Upon arriving in San Francisco, each one sold herself at the best price to the highest bidder among the audience that, attracted by the cargo, congregated.  As a general rule the price varied from 300 to 400 piasters; of this amount 60 piasters was returned to the captain.  This still left a handsome profit to the woman who, having been the object of speculation, ended by sharing in its profits.  Frequently the day after a woman had sold herself for 300 or 400 piasters she felt dissatisfied with her bargain, ran off from her acquirer and sold herself to a new purchaser. Then, inasmuch as there was no law protecting or upholding this traffic, the original purchasers merely lost their 300 or 400 piasters.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Moreover, all other industries were on much the same level.  At the head of essential industries should be placed the bakeries.  Nearly all the bakers were Americans of Frenchmen who made excellent bread.  This bread, which at one time was worth one dollar or one piaster a pound, had, as previously indicated, fallen to one franc, twenty-five centimes.  This was the price at the time of our arrival in California; and the price, I presume, at which it is now selling.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Next in importance were the grocers, who were invariably Americans; an unfortunate situation for newcomers who did not understand English.  An American grocer who does not understand what you ask for has this in common with a Turkish merchant, namely, that he makes no effort to understand.  So if he does not immediately understand what is wanted the customer has to look into the casks, cases, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Then came the <HI REND="italics">cafe&acute;s chantants</HI>
074.sgm:<P>The restaurants were managed for the most part by the Chinese who handled them in Chinese fashion; even their cooking was abominable.  The hotel-proprietors were French; this was obvious from the names on their hotels.  These were the Hotel de La Fayette; the Hotel Laffitte; the Hotel des Deux-Mondes.  A few charming milliners had established shops, but since there were only, at the time of my arrival,  about twenty or twenty-five women, &amp; at my departure only about two or three hundred, those who relied solely for support on the profits from their establishments would have starved.  However, about the time I left California these establishments were just beginning to prosper.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Gradually the agriculturalists arrived, bringing seeds.  They visited various locations, purchased land that suited them &amp; began clearing.  These lands belonged to the American government, or to emigrants from Mexico.  The purchasers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:usually paid for their lands out of what they raised.  Don Antonio &amp; his brother, Don Castro, owing to their industry are worth today some five or six millions.<ANCHOR ID="n6-3">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-3">This probably refers to the Rancho San Lorenzo, seven leagues square, owned by Guillermo Castro and Francisco Soto.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>The method of locating gold, the most seductive and the most popular of all occupations, an occupation that had lured Tillier and me, and whose brilliant promises had given us the courage to make such economies, now merits discussion.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VII: THE PLACERS</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>NOW THAT we had acquired the amount we had fixed as our goal, that is, when I had 400 &amp; Tillier 600 piasters, we decided to leave San Francisco &amp; push on to the placers.  What remained was to choose between the region of the San Joaqui&acute;n &amp; the Sacramento.  The advantages &amp; disadvantages of both locations were debated, our final decision falling on the San Joaqui&acute;n as being closer than the Sacramento.  Its mines, moreover, were reputed to be equally rich.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This trip proved epochal.  For one thing, the local steamers--this traffic, which has not heretofore been mentioned, was one of the most important enterprises in California--made a rate, exclusive of food, of fifteen piasters each for the trip up to Stockton.  Moreover, since the most accessible placers, which almost invariably follow the course of the small subsidiary streams of the San Joaqui&acute;n or the Sacramento, were, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Our tools included shovels, pick axes, picks, and cradles.  One cradle was sufficient for both Tillier and me, since by working together the labor was divided, one man mining while the other washed.  The cradle, a device used for washing gravel, is a tray made of wood or tin measuring twelve or sixteen inches in diameter.  This is conical in shape but fairly shallow, &amp; entirely smooth inside.  These trays, based on their size, hold from eight to twelve liters and are filled two-thirds full of soil which is beaten and thoroughly washed by holding the tray under water, thus separating the gold from the sand and gravel.  To bring extra water and to keep the cradle constantly rocking so that it will separate and turn up every little particle of gold, is the task of the miner who must frequently remain in water up to his waist.  The other miner makes the hole &amp; removes the gravel from this excavation.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Having left San Francisco, we finally reached Stockton.  On our journey we ascended Suisun Bay, passing on our left five or six islands which had not as yet been named, but which some day will have gardens like those on the islands of Asnie&grave;res and Neuilly.  Arriving at the point where the Sacramento &amp; the San Joaqui&acute;n fork, we left the Sacramento, which bends from there toward the north, &amp; followed the San Joaqui&acute;n which, swerving abruptly, winds toward the south.  The first affluent of the San Joaqui&acute;n is formed by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:junction of three rivers; the Cosumnes, the Mokelumne and a third, or central river, which has not as yet been named.<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">Subsequently called Dry Creek.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>At Stockton, a newly created city, as its name indicates, and one which had sprung up within the last two years, we purchased two mules and the necessary provisions.  These mules cost 120 piasters each.  Our provisions included fifty pounds of flour which, being damaged, was quite cheap, and which, thanks to this damage, could be purchased at the rate of fifty pounds for seven piasters.  For twenty-two piasters we purchased two hams; fifteen pounds of biscuits cost fifty centimes a pound.  A can of lard cost two and one-half piasters.  Twenty pounds of beans and three or four pounds of salt sold for twelve sous a pound.</P>
074.sgm:<P>After these purchases had been completed and the expense of the journey from San Francisco to Stockton paid, of my 400 piasters only 120 were now available.  One mule was soon loaded with our utensils, the other with our provisions.  Our destination was Camp Sonora, approximately forty leagues <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>In traveling from Stockton to the Stanislaus, the first river encountered, the route lay across superb plains studded with trees, and carpeted with the blue flowers already mentioned.  These I recognized upon inspecting them more closely as lupines.  Another flower of a red-orange color that preferred the shade of oaks and which I have since ascertained was the California poppy also flourished.  All the groves of trees were inhabited by handsome birds such as blue-jays, with their speckled heads, pheasants, and by the alluring crested partridge, a bird indigenous to California.  What quadrupeds we met were primarily gray and yellow squirrels, hares with enormous ears, and rabbits as large as rats.  We frightened a few deer, but failed to kill them.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Above the Stanislaus, which was crossed on a bridge of boats--for which, I should like to add, the charge was one piaster each--we again caught the trail that led us through more dense woods.  We now began to ascend the first low ranges of the mountains.  When not swerving off to the right or left to hunt, we had a good trail well-worn by mules and wagons along which we constantly encountered caravans carrying supplies and merchandise to the mines, or returning empty-handed to take on loads at Stockton or San Francisco.  At the approach of dusk we erected our tents, wrapped up in our blankets, and went to sleep.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Five days after our departure from Stockton we reached <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:Sonora.  At Sonora we rested, however, only twenty-four hours, for we learned from acquaintances and from comrades who had come out with us and whom we happened to meet out here that the mines were poor.  But we were informed at the same time that in the vicinity of Pine Pass new mines had been discovered that were rumored to be far richer.<ANCHOR ID="n7-2">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-2"><HI REND="italics">Passo del Pin</HI>
074.sgm:, according to the French text.  This may have been the French interpretation of the Spanish term, <HI REND="italics">Paso del Pino</HI>
074.sgm:<P>Pine Pass lay some three or four leagues from Sonora in a deep valley wedged in between two mountains.  Already a road had been opened from Camp Sonora to Pine Pass that ran through vast forests of oak and pines, forests more abundant in game than any we had yet found.  Having reached Pine Pass on toward six o'clock in the evening, there was barely time to place our mules out in pasture, put up our tents, and prepare supper before dark.  Moreover, we were so impatient to start work that we looked for a place to dig that same evening.  Thereupon we found out that in this region claims could not be selected by miners but were allotted to them by an alcalde.<ANCHOR ID="n7-3">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-3">An alcalde was a Spanish official who combined the duties of mayor, police officer, and justice of the peace.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>So we presented ourselves at the alcalde's dwelling; he was living like any ordinary mortal in a tent.  Fortunately he was a kind man who received us pleasantly.  To occupy his idle moments he kept on hand a supply of liquor; this was the reason why he encouraged as many miners as possible to locate in his neighborhood.  Sympathizing moreover with our impatience, he went out at once and staked off our location.  Our task was now to assure ourselves the following morning whether or not this claim was good.  The selection made, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The following day at seven o'clock in the morning we started work, both digging in an area of six square feet for the long-coveted treasure.  At a depth of two feet we struck rock.  This chance discovery seriously complicated our situation, for we had none of the instruments necessary to break or extract this; so we dug down below and blew up the rock with powder.  We could have blown up a cathedral, so engrossed were we in our work.  For five days we continued to extract rock from the ground.  Finally, on the sixth day a reddish soil indicating the presence of gold was uncovered.  This reddish soil usually tops, for a depth of one to one and one-half feet, auriferous gravel; it is fine, light, and soft to the touch, being composed almost entirely of silica.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Having reached the auriferous strata, we filled our cradle, hurried over to the small stream at Pine Pass, &amp; commenced the operation of washing.  As a result of our labors we took out some gold-dust.  What was secured was worth perhaps ten francs.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Though it was not the first gold we had seen, yet it was equally rich and was the first we had collected ourselves.  Mediocre as was our first washing, yet we were far from feeling discouraged.  But we worked for eight days &amp; during these eight days did not secure more than thirty piasters of gold.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Then, convinced that the mine would not support the miner, realizing that our supplies were being exhausted, and having learned that over on the slopes of the Sierra Nevada richer diggings were being found, we packed up our tents, loaded our mules, &amp; started off again.  This was on May 1, 1850.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VIII: THE SIERRA NEVADA</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>THE SIERRA NEVADA, otherwise known as the snow-capped chain, toward which we were wending our way, extends from northwest to southeast throughout the entire length of California.  This chain is far loftier than the California range.  Eternal snows crown its summits.  Lavishly endowed by nature, at almost regular intervals may be seen large wooded plateaus from which rise volcanic peaks that tower from 12,000 to 15,000 feet above sea-level.</P>
074.sgm:<P>These isolated, eternally snow-capped peaks have given to this range the name of Sierra Nevada.  This chain rises gradually, step by step, the first hills being followed by mountains, while the mountains become more &amp; more precipitous the nearer they approach the region of eternal snows.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>As in the Alps, this space is divided into regions where certain trees thrive to the exclusion of all others; at the base of the mountains are found oaks; above the oaks rise cedars; above the cedars tower pines.  However, the pines that thrive in the higher altitude &amp; which usually crown the mountains grow also in the lower ranges.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The region between the Californian range and the Sierra Nevada contains all those rich gold deposits that have lured to California all the varied representatives of the human race who have come from all over the globe.  By uniting on the south these mountain ranges form the vast Tulare Valley, if not the most fertile, at least one of the most fertile in California.</P>
074.sgm:<P>On the morning of our departure, which occurred at eleven o'clock, having realized that our tin cradle operated slowly and gave only mediocre results, we decided to build our own cradle to wash gravel.  Unfortunately, we lacked nearly everything required for making such a machine.  The bottom of the machine consisted, first of all, of a dozen planks six inches in breadth and two or three feet in length.  If we made these planks ourselves we should lose time that was becoming more and more valuable; to purchase these planks required more funds than we could supply.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Suddenly the thought came to me to go over to American Camp, situated one and one-half leagues from the diggings where we knew wine was being shipped in kegs.  There we purchased two old empty kegs for one piaster each, and some nails at an exorbitant figure.  All that was now needed was a piece of sheet iron.  I was fortunate enough to find, just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>At eight o'clock that morning we returned to our tent and began work on our machine which we completed in about two hours, with the aid of a saw, a plane, and our knives.  We then went out to try it &amp; see how it worked.  Our work proved entirely successful.  There was nothing more to hinder us from leaving for the Sierra Nevada &amp; locating some good placers.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At eleven o'clock, as I have said, we departed, climbing the first mountain that loomed up ahead of us.  Out here there was no longer a well-traveled trail.  With the sun's rays pouring down on us, we moved on through the high grass of which I have already spoken.  The mules led us at random; and in all justice to them it must be said that they knew how to find the best route.  This did not prevent us, from time to time, in falling down literally from fatigue under groves of trees, groves composed almost invariably of pines and oaks.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Twice during this trip we found running water &amp; descended to the river.  At the second stream we stopped, watered our mules, allowed them to graze a bit, and had something to eat ourselves.  At five o'clock in the evening we resumed our course.  We intended to camp at the top of the mountain, but we did not reach the summit until after nine-thirty at night.  The moon shone in full force.  We did not meet any troublesome animals, although we had heard many tales about rattlesnakes, vipers, &amp; even boa constrictors.  But all of them shun man and if for some reason they appear, it is, as I shall soon explain, merely to seek warmth.</P>
074.sgm:<P>So we camped quietly that night, intending to leave at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Upon approaching the banks of the river, its shores were found to be quite steep.  Along these banks we traveled for nearly an hour, camping about one kilometer from a high mountain that we had skirted, seven or eight hours beyond the first slopes of the Sierra Nevada.  By dawn the following morning we were again on our way.  Since leaving Sonora we had not met a single person.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Of the many gold-seekers who had already attempted this same journey and had reached their destination, all had arrived at the season when the snows were melting &amp; when the torrents of water that were pouring down from the mountains had submerged the lower plains on which was found gold.  We arrived about ten o'clock in the morning at the point toward which we had started.  On several plateaus, all more or less elevated, we discovered traces of old diggings.  This indicated that up here excavation was necessary.  We then erected our tent, pastured our animals, and set off to locate claims.  Inasmuch as surface indications were not conclusive, it was all a matter of good luck or misfortune.</P>
074.sgm:<P>We now began to work, but no sooner had we dug down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>We dined, however, with fairly good appetites, for all we now had to rely on was our own strength.  Dinner that night included ham soup, a few beans left over from the previous evening, and tortillas in place of bread.  The tortilla is a kind of wheat cake flattened between the hands and cooked in ashes.  Supper over, preparations were made for the night.  At the altitude at which we were camping, that is, approximately 3,000 feet above sea-level, the nights began to be crisp.  This condition forced us to keep ignited throughout the night the fire used for cooking supper; this being located near the opening of our tents also served to warm our feet.</P>
074.sgm:<P>We were just dropping off to sleep when off in the distance sounds resembling prolonged and plaintive wails were heard.  Both of us, hearing these sounds simultaneously, were soon wide awake &amp; at once reached instinctively for our guns.  A few seconds later more cries like the first were heard approaching; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>In all probability they would have injured neither us nor our mules.  Our principal anxiety was for our mules for they were picketed out some forty feet away.  We went out, gun in hand, to look after them, then moved them over and tied them to the stakes of our tent to await the dawn.  The balance of the night passed quietly, enabling us to get some sleep.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At daybreak we started off once more.  This time we retraced our steps and, instead of ascending the Murphy, went downstream.  On toward eleven-thirty we stopped for food, and at one o'clock began digging again.  Here we continued to find some water, but not enough to prevent work.  At a depth of from five to six feet reddish soil was uncovered.  This proved to be a type of gravel that looked highly favorable.  Having assembled and separated it, after five hours labor we collected nearly one ounce of gold, that is, gold valued at 900 or 100 francs.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Having finally found a good location we decided not to move again.  Our spirits rose in contrast to the depression of the previous evening and we anticipated still better luck the day following, for we had worked only five hours.  The next day we hoped to double our labor.  That evening we had taken the precaution of bringing our mules close in and building a roaring fire.  However, fearing a shortage of wood, while I prepared supper Tillier took his hatchet and went out to bring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>`Hello,' I called out, `what's the matter?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`The trouble is,' he replied, `that we are among wolves and they have located us this evening.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Nonsense!'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`My dear fellow, I've just seen one.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`A wolf?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Yes, he was coming down the mountain; we both saw each other at the same time and both stopped.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Where was that?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`About 100 feet back.  Since he did not move, neither did I; but I was afraid this might last a long time &amp; that you might be uneasy so I came back.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`And the wolf?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`When he did not see me any longer he must have continued on his way.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Suppose we take our guns &amp; look into the situation more closely.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>Taking our guns which, after our experience last evening, were kept constantly loaded, Tillier walked ahead, while I followed close behind him.  Some thirty feet back from the river Tillier stopped and, motioning for me to be quiet, pointed with his finger at a wolf sitting by the banks of one of the small streams that flow down and empty into the Murphy.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Of his presence there was no doubt; his two eyes, fixed on us, shone in the night like two glowing coals.  Almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The night now grew hideous; packs of wolves circled constantly around us.  Our frightened mules shook and trembled from head to foot.  Though our fire kept the wolves at a safe distance, yet we had no sleep that night.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IX: THE AMERICANS</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>TO CONTINUE to remain on where we were was now impossible; the wolves, warded off one night, might return the following night, grow bolder, devour our mules, and perhaps even us.  Such was not our object in coming to California.  So the following morning we continued to travel down along the river, dig holes, and make channels.</P>
074.sgm:<P>While we collected some gold, yet the amount was small, not over one franc a cradle.  Certainly no other place equalled the diggings we had left.  We were talking together--feeling braver by daylight--to ascertain if in spite of wolves we dared return, when suddenly we perceived a black bear tranquilly descending the mountain.  The temptation to open fire was almost overpowering.  But a tradition given strong credence in California restrained us; for the Indians are of the belief that a bear wounded by hunters goes back and enlists other bears and that all unite and return to attack the hunter.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>This seemed highly improbable; but not being acclimated as yet to solitude and isolation and being unfamiliar with this new country, we felt somewhat timid.  So we concluded to return at once to Pine Pass and go to work.  Dismantling our tent, we loaded our mules, took our bearings, &amp; were off again.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The following day in a patch of green pasture a deer was sighted grazing.  Both of us fired &amp; both shots struck the mark.  This was at the same time and economy &amp; a good speculation.  We cut our deer into pieces and, loading this on our mules, sold half at Pine Pass for twenty-five piasters.  Upon returning to the place from which we had originally started, we discovered that the work begun by us had been continued by others, then finally abandoned for lack of tools.  All the workers found gold; but it was only those who were organized in large groups that accomplished anything.  But societies or rather group organization with its concomitant responsibilities are naturally distasteful to Frenchmen; whereas, on the other hand, Americans seem to have a predilection for organization.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Out here I had an example of the rapacity of doctors.  An American who was ill sent out for a doctor, an American like himself.  This doctor called three times &amp; charged one ounce of gold for each visit.  He also sold him a dose of quinine and charged two ounces.  This was approximately 425 francs.  The result was that in California an invalid preferred to die rather than call in a doctor.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At Pine Pass there were, I should judge, about 120 or 130 workers.  Moreover, thirty-three Frenchmen from Bordeaux and Paris had assembled and, a little below the camp, had turned the course of the river.  This task had required some four months.  During this period they had consumed all their supplies and exhausted their capital.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Just as they were about to reap the fruits of their sacrifice, 120 Americans who had been merely biding their time appeared &amp; declared that they held Pine Pass; that the river was a subsidiary of the American River; that in consequence no one but Americans had the right to turn aside the stream; and that they must leave, for if they refused, since they had 120 strong and well-armed men, not a Frenchmen would be left along the river.  Now the French were clearly within their rights, but the alcalde, being an American, naturally sided with his fellow-countrymen.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Pressure was brought to bear on the French to yield.  Some withdrew to San Francisco; others went to Sonora; others left for Murphy's Camp; others, finally, remained to make channels hoping to return not entirely empty-handed.  In the end the robbery failed materially to benefit the Americans.  Rumors of this outrage soon spread throughout the country-side; all the French at Mormon Bar and Jamestown congregated, remained hidden between two mountains and, during the night, turned the river back to its normal channel.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The following morning the Americans found the river at Pine Pass flowing in its former channel.  So no one derived any profit after toiling for four months, although these labors might perhaps have brought in a million.  Aware that there was no place for us at Pine Pass, we returned to the camp at Sonora where the alcalde had originally allotted us a claim.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The distance, it will be recalled, from Pine Pass to Sonora was three or four leagues.  We arrived at eleven o'clock in the evening, pitched our tent where it had been placed before, &amp; occupied ourselves in preparing our usual supper, which had not been in any way changed except when supplemented by game, and which invariably comprised ham and beans.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The following morning we decided to work at a test channel.  The formation here consisted of a kind of loam, mixed with clayish schist and slate, which came off in flakes that dissolved in water.  There Tillier and I were able to extract approximately eighty francs of gold daily.  This barely covered our expenses, for our provisions were now nearly exhausted.  We worked, however, in this way for an entire week--from Monday morning until Saturday night.</P>
074.sgm:<P>On Sunday, a day of rest, all work stopped at the mines.  So we decided to consecrate this day of rest to a hunting-trip.  But even the game, too, now began to grow scarce and to withdraw far into the mountains.  Notwithstanding, we killed two or three pheasants and several of those charming crested partridge of which I have already spoken.</P>
074.sgm:<P>That evening we returned, saddened by the fact that the hunting, as well as mining, gave evidence of being a failure.  Upon our return we fell in with a poor French cook, who had deserted from a French whaler.  He was of the belief that he merely needed to spade up the soil to make a fortune in California.  We commenced to revise his ideas immediately.  His bedding--his sole possession--was all he carried with him.  For a few days he enjoyed the use of our supplies and the fruits of our hunting expedition.  Since he spoke Spanish, we believed that he might in some way prove useful.</P>
074.sgm:<P>After testing him for a few days and finding his personality agreeable, we took him in with us.  In addition to acting as our interpreter, he rendered us one invaluable service.  He taught us how to make bread.  Our bread was kneaded in the cradle.  Having no yeast we had to manage without it.  Spreading a bed of coals on the ground, the bread was placed on top, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>On Monday morning we decided to try another hole.  We moved on to a point called Yaqui, adjoining the placers where we had been working.  There we found five or six miners already in ahead of us.  Having been lured by some dazzling bits of gold that had been found there, we dug a hole.  For the first four feet we found a gray soil, resembling a volcanic product more than the usual type of soil.  Aware that such soil carried no gold-dust we concluded not to give it a washing.  Below this gray soil appeared a reddish substance and the operation of washing now began.</P>
074.sgm:<P>After taking in approximately eight piasters in gold, Tillier unexpectedly found a nugget that must have weighed four ounces.  This made about 345 francs that we had uncovered in one lump.  By way of celebrating, we now indulged in a bottle of Saint Julian wine at a cost of five piasters.  This was on May twenty-fourth.  Our labors were for the first time meeting with success.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But on the morning of May twenty-seventh, just as we were starting off to work, we saw circulars tacked upon the trees.  These announced that, starting from the twenty-seventh, no foreigners could dig except upon payment to the American government of a tax of twenty piasters for each man working a claim.<ANCHOR ID="n9-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1">The State legislature had placed a prohibitive tax of twenty dollars a month on all foreigners engaged in mining in California.  Thousands were now forced to abandon their claims.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>This gave us food for thought; the miner now gambled not only his time &amp; labor, but he also had to risk a comparatively large sum of money.  Our hole was already quite extensive, and would soon touch neighboring diggings.  We would have to pay sixty piasters to keep it, or sixty piasters before digging another hole.  About ten o'clock, while debating what course to pursue, we saw a group of armed Americans who had come to collect the tax.  We refused to pay.  This refusal was the signal for war.  We had less than 120 or 130 Frenchmen in all.</P>
074.sgm:<P>However, all the Mexicans at the mines joined forces with us, saying that they too owned the soil as well as the Americans.  Since they had about 4000 men all told, these added to the other recruits would have made quite an imposing army.  The Americans on the other hand numbered about 2500 or 3000 miners.  These men proposed that we organize &amp; resist, forming an army.  To us &amp; to other Frenchmen were offered the rank of officers in this army.  Unfortunately, or rather fortunately, we knew our men; at the first serious clash they might even desert and turn against us.  So we declined.</P>
074.sgm:<P>From this time on our lives were no longer safe at the placers.  Day after day reports came in not of one death but of three or four murders committed either by Mexicans or by Americans.  The only difference lay in the method used by the murderer.  The Americans would come over to the edge of the diggings and, without any discussion, kill a miner with their pistols.  Then, should one miner attempt to come to the aid of his comrade, he too would be killed with a shot.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The Mexican, on the contrary--and nearly all the Mexicans were from the province of Sonora--would approach in a friendly manner, chat, ask news of the diggings and, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:a blow from his knife, kill the very man with whom he had been chatting.<ANCHOR ID="n9-2">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-2">The name Sonora was given by the Sonoran diggers who originally camped at this point.  By 1849 it was the largest and gayest camp in California, having a population of 5,000.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Then, aware that the outcome would undoubtedly be a massacre in which we should probably be the losers, we sent messengers to Mormon Bar, Murphy's Camp, Jamestown and Jacksonville to call the French to our assistance.  The following day 350 Frenchmen came over with knapsacks on their backs, fully armed.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The Americans on their part had issued an appeal to their countrymen, &amp; received reinforcements of one hundred men who came in from neighboring placers.  Toward eight o'clock in the evening the French reinforcements made us fully aware of their protection by pitching camp between two mountains which commanded the trail.  We also armed and, abandoning our diggings, went to rejoin these arrivals.  A few Americans, more honest than the others, took sides against their fellow-countrymen &amp; came over to our camp.  Two hundred Mexicans had followed us; the rest, realizing that a clash was imminent, had vanished.</P>
074.sgm:<P>We now took up positions on the crest of the two mountains that commanded the trail.  Our 350 compatriots remained on horseback on the main trail.  We had, all told, some 700 men.  Our position was favorable; we could indefinitely intercept all communications with Stockton.  Several Americans and men from other countries were stopped.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The night was passed standing guard.  The following day toward us was seen advancing a detachment of about 150 Americans.  We now hid in the tall grass and behind trees, leaving only a lookout visible behind barricades hastily thrown up along the route.  The Americans, believing themselves sufficiently numerous to dislodge us, began the attack.  Thereupon, our men jumped out of hiding; from both mountains fire now blazed forth simultaneously, &amp; twenty Americans fell dead or wounded.  The rest fled in a body, scattering on the plains and seeking shelter in the woods.  The fugitives returned to Sonora.  But the following morning we saw them reappear, the alcalde marching at their head, carrying a cross aloft.  They reported that they had written to the governor &amp; were awaiting his reply.  A truce was accordingly arranged.</P>
074.sgm:<P>In the meanwhile, each man was free to return to his diggings.  How cautiously each miner came back is self-evident, for his life hung constantly by a mere thread.  The expected letter arrived; in this was confirmed the twenty-piaster tax, while the alcalde was given the right of life and death over all foreigners.  To live longer at Sonora was now impossible.  So we sold all our equipment and purchased enough supplies to carry us back to Stockton.  From Stockton we planned to return to San Francisco.  But what could we do there?  We did not know.  At Stockton our mules were sold for 200 piasters.  With these funds we purchased supplies &amp; engaged accommodations on a boat leaving for San Francisco.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This time the trip was made far more rapidly, for we were going downstream.  The banks of the San Joaqui&acute;n were covered with reeds; in the reeds lived a motley &amp; numerous throng of sea-wolves &amp; tortoises.  These reeds adjoined marshy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Finally, after surmounting these difficulties, on Thursday morning, June twenty-second, we entered San Francisco harbor where some wharves newly covered with houses were discovered.  Wharves &amp; houses had been built in our absence--an absence that had lasted only four months.  Utterly exhausted, Tillier and I decided to rest for two or three days, deferring until later the decision as to what should be our future occupation.  Our comrade, the cook, had remained at the mines.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>X: THE SAN FRANCISCO FIRE</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>WHEN I SAY we hoped to rest two or three days, I may perhaps have exaggerated our intentions, for upon our arrival what we had hoped for--to live at a hotel--was checked by the condition of our finances.  What we actually did was to erect our former tent with our old blankets.</P>
074.sgm:<P>French Camp was where we decided as usual to reside.  French Camp, as the name indicates, was the general rendezvous of our fellow-countrymen; however, since our departure among the primitive tents had sprung up like so many mushrooms, a dozen wooden houses occupied by laundries run both by men and women.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Upon leaving for the mines we had placed our trunks in the house of an old German who, being too old to engage in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Fires, by the way, occur constantly in San Francisco for since wood is in general use a constant series of fires is unavoidable.  Every inhabitant of California who has debts to pay has a fire!  This applies even to gambling debts.  The fire heralded by these cries proved to be a first-class fire.  It started between Clay and Sacramento streets, the section occupied by merchants dealing in wines and lumber.</P>
074.sgm:<P>By wine merchants I mean merchants selling both wines &amp; liquors.  Fanned by a vigorous north breeze the fire spread rapidly, affording from the heights from which we watched it spread a magnificent spectacle.  Alcohol and wood-yards, what more could the most fastidious fire require?</P>
074.sgm:<P>At each fresh supply of rum, brandy, or spirituous liquors that the fire touched, its intensity was redoubled; simultaneously the flames changed color.  This might have been aptly termed a magnificent illumination of Bengal fires, with its reds, blues, and yellows.  This was intensified by the American habit of handling fires by hurling tons of powder on the flames in the belief that the house, by falling, will check this monster.  The house in fact collapses, but almost invariably its flaming embers fall over across the street, setting fire to those located on the opposite side which, being built of wood and already <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>At the present time, wooden pavements have been laid for greater convenience &amp; consequently when fire starts nothing can stop it; moreover with rare intelligence a fire invariably starts just when the water supply is especially low, and since the city is always short of water even for drinking purposes, the fire moves ahead without fear of being checked in its mad progress.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But owing to this water shortage, for the consolation of those who have fires there is a corps of well-organized firemen who at a given signal rush over with splendid pumps to the scene of the disaster.  These pumps are absolutely empty, but they can pump air, and this usually has a tendency to stifle the flames.</P>
074.sgm:<P>While reluctant to say that these fires are caused deliberately, yet right in the city of San Francisco there are so many men who are interested in having San Francisco burn down that a certain amount of suspicion is inevitable.  For instance, on that day wine merchants and lumber merchants were wiped out by fire.  While this fire may have ruined its immediate victims, yet it enriched dealers in lumber and wines in other sections of the city, not to mention the owners, proprietors, and consignees of vessels that were waiting to unload, and that carried cargoes similar to what had been lost in the conflagration.</P>
074.sgm:<P>On the morning of the fire common wine had risen, for example, from 100 to 600 and 800 francs a puncheon, clearly quite an advance.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Recalling at this time that two of our friends, Gauthier &amp; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>To give any idea of the noise made under such conditions by the Americans is virtually impossible.  They come, go, scamper here and there, shout, enter the houses, break and destroy things, &amp; above all, become intoxicated.  In addition to all this, no sooner has a house burned down, than everyone digs with anything at hand among the ashes; not only at the mines is there a frenzy of gold-digging!</P>
074.sgm:<P>Among the block of burning buildings was a steel house that had come out from England, where it had been constructed.  Owing to the material of which it had been built the natural expectation was that it would defy the flames.  Everyone, in consequence, carried, rolled, pushed, &amp; piled up what he had of most value inside this building.  But the fire proved insatiable.  Upon reaching the steel edifice, it was soon enveloped with tongues of flame that lapped at it greedily, surrounding it with such intense heat that the steel began to turn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The fire traveled from north to south, being finally stopped at California Street, a broad thoroughfare which the fire, despite its relentless efforts, was unable to leap.  The fire had lasted from seven o'clock until eleven.  Five hundred houses were burned and incalculable damage caused.  All the leading wine and lumber merchants of San Francisco were ruined.  That this fire would lead to renewed building activity &amp; that in this line we might find employment was our general opinion.  But this failed to materialize.  The majority of merchants that had been burned out were Americans, and the result was that only Americans were engaged for reconstruction purposes.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Having looked in vain for work and not having found employment, Tillier and I concluded to follow the example of one of our countrymen, the Count of Pindray, who owing to his skill had been making a good living.<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: Now we had long been encouraged in this very move by an old Mexican from San Francisco, a former bear &amp; buffalo hunter named Aluna.  So Tillier &amp; I finally decided to unfold to him a plan we had devised of striking out for the prairies, and to ask him to join us in this new venture on which we hoped to embark.  He greeted our proposal with obvious pleasure; his advice was to select as the arena of our first exploits the Mariposa and Tulare valleys, regions rich in bear and buffalo.  However we begged him to make our novitiate as easy as possible and to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">The Count of Pindray, an impoverished French nobleman, was a famous character in early San Francisco.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna stood his ground manfully; but in the final analysis since Tillier and I were to supply the funds and he could not make a move without us, he was compelled to accede to our wishes.  At length we all agreed that the scene of our hunting activities should be the rolling plains extending from Sonoma to Lake Laguna, and from the ancient Russian colony to the Sacramento.<ANCHOR ID="n10-2">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-2">The Russians first settled on the coast north of San Francisco, at Fort Ross.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Good firearms were what we primarily needed for the career on which we were about to embark.  Tillier &amp; I owned excellent guns which had been thoroughly tested when hunting in the Sierra Nevada and at Pine Pass.  Next to guns, an indispensable object for our journey was a bark to make biweekly trips between Sonoma and San Francisco and from San Francisco to Sonoma.  This I went down to the port to select in person.  I decided on a boat that was propelled both by sail and oar.</P>
074.sgm:<P>For this purchase I paid 300 piasters, a mere trifle.  We then invested in supplies to last a week, carrying these on board together with an ample store of lead &amp; powder.  Strange as it may seem, the powder was not costly, the price being the same as in France--that is, four francs the pound.  Shot was more valuable; this sold for fifty and sixty centimes.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Now Aluna had an old steed that was still good enough to be taken out hunting, that could carry a man, and also serve as a pack-animal.  This saved us a certain amount of expense; so we gratefully accepted the offer he made us.  The tent we had just constructed from blankets probably would have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>On June 26, 1850, we set out after having, at the same price as before, stored our trunks with the German.  In my capacity as sailor, upon my shoulders fell the task of piloting our vessel.  Tillier and I set out alone on her; Aluna and his horse (for the animal could not be put aboard without causing the boat to capsize) were carried on one of the flat boats, which carry passengers to the mines and which can land at any desired point along the shore.  We were to proceed to Sonoma, where the first to arrive were to await for those who came later.</P>
074.sgm:<P>We were the first arrivals; but we were scarcely justified in priding ourselves on our promptness, for no sooner had we pulled our boat upon the sands than we saw Aluna, with his round broad-brimmed hat, his blanket carried in a roll around his body, his trousers split at the sides, and his round vest, coming up at a lively gallop, gun against his hip.  Even now the old hunter still made an excellent appearance in this picturesque costume, despite his advanced years.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Although somewhat reluctant to leave our boat pulled up on the bank he appeased us by saying that no one would think of moving it.  Inasmuch as he had lived here for twenty years and since he had a far more intimate knowledge of the country than we had, we relied on his past experience.  Leaving the boat in the lap of fate, we loaded our tent and supplies on the horse.  Our few cooking utensils were packed here and there until we looked more like coppersmiths going out to renew pots and pans, than hunters.  Thus loaded we struck out directly across the prairies, traveling from south to north.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XI: HUNTING</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>WHEN DISCUSSING Captain Sutter's establishment, the fertility of the soil of California was briefly indicated.  Especially when reaching the prairies that extend from Sonoma to Santa Rosa was this fertility evident.  Frequently the grass through which we were obliged to cut a trail attained a height of nine or ten feet.  Along the banks of the Murphy, pines of a thickness and height inconceivable in France were seen.  These attain a growth of 200 or 250 feet and are generally 12 or 14 feet in diameter.<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1">The traveler refers to the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
074.sgm:<P>North of San Francisco there existed in 1842 a giant pine.  Duflot de Mofras, a noted naturalist who measured it at that date, reported it to be 300 feet high and 60 feet in circumference.  In an utterly ruthless manner this dean of the Californian forests was destroyed.  Fortunately, however, science <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:assisted in this vandalism and deduced from a number of the concentric layers--each of which represents a year's growth--the age of this giant.  Adamson has seen cut down at Senegal a baobab that, according to his measurement, was 25 feet in diameter and, according to his calculation, 6000 years old.<ANCHOR ID="n11-2">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-2">The trunk of the baobab, the monkey-fruit tree of Africa, often reaches a diameter of thirty feet.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>With a plow such as was used by laborers at the time of Virgil, without harrow and thrasher, the soil of California has produced lavishly.  In 1829, the fathers of Mission San Jose&acute; sowed on their lands ten <HI REND="italics">fanegas</HI>
074.sgm: of wheat.<ANCHOR ID="n11-3">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: In 1830, 1100 <HI REND="italics">fanegas</HI>
074.sgm:, that is, a return of more than one hundred to one were harvested.  The following year they did not plant seed &amp; the soil, lying fallow, still produced 600 <HI REND="italics">fanegas</HI>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-3">The <HI REND="italics">fanega</HI>
074.sgm:<P>Eighteen months in California are adequate to grow a banana tree.  At the age of 18 months the tree fruits and dies; a crop of bananas consists, however, of 160 to 180 fruits weighting from 30 to 40 kilograms.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Mr. Boitard has estimated that a plot of land 100 meters square, planted out to bananas placed two or three meters apart, will produce 2000 kilograms of fruit.  By comparison, in the best lands of La Beauce, wheat yields only ten kilograms and potatoes a like yield.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Vineyards have been under cultivation for some time in California.  The results have been amazing.  Monterey has shipped to San Francisco loads of grapes that rival those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Out in California the year is divided into two seasons, the dry and the rainy season.  The rainy season extends from October through March; the dry season lasts from April to September.  There are few cold days during the winter season, the southeast winds that blow during these months tend to temper the climate.  The same thing occurs during summer when the northeast breezes cool the burning rays of the sun.  In the rainy season, rains fall daily; however, the rains increase from October to January and decrease from February to April.  They begin to fall about two o'clock in the afternoon, stopping on toward six o'clock in the evening.</P>
074.sgm:<P>We set out during July, the most delightful time of the year.  The temperature varied from 75&deg; to 90&deg; Fahrenheit.  From eleven o'clock in the morning to two o'clock in the afternoon this heat made hunting or traveling virtually impossible.  What was advisable was to find the welcome shade of pine or oak, &amp; sleep.  By way of compensation the afternoons &amp; evenings were delightful.  After entering the prairie we began to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna allowed us to do all the hunting without firing; obviously he was conserving his energies for game of greater importance.  He was carrying an English carbine with a single chamber that used twenty-four balls to the pound.  This quite obviously had seen considerable hard service in his hands.  Originally of flint, the gun had had a piston added at the time this improvement had first been introduced, and the crudeness of the supplementary work contrasted with the good workmanship of the original rifle.</P>
074.sgm:<P>As we moved on in a leisurely fashion we were just conjecturing whether Aluna, of whom we had so often spoken as a remarkable rifleman, would prove of any use to us except by supplying a horse when he suddenly stopped and, placing his hand on my shoulder, made a sign for me to stop.  I also signalled with my finger to Tillier who was a few paces in advance.  Everyone remained perfectly quiet.  Aluna now placed his forefinger on his mouth to indicate silence, then waved his hand in the direction of a small hill that rose on our right.  We looked in vain to ascertain what he was indicating, but we could see nothing except some twinkling feet flying from tree to tree, as if gray squirrels were leaping from branch to branch.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna by shrugging his shoulders warned us in a single gesture to lie down in the grass; at the same time he led his horse with the utmost caution into a grove of trees where he tied him short and where the thick, dense foliage hid him from sight.  Then, removing his poncho, his hat, and even his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>We remained behind, literally rooted to the spot, our eyes fixed on the plain he had indicated--a strip of mountain land nearly covered with grass and brush that appeared to be an eight or ten years' growth.  About twenty feet away Aluna disappeared through the grass &amp;, although we looked carefully in his direction, yet we heard no noises, and did not even see the tips of the grass move.  Neither a snake nor a jackal could have glided or slipped along more silently.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Suddenly we saw above the top of the copse something resembling a dry branch move; then a second branch soon appeared a short distance from the first.  Finally in the two parallel objects which had attracted our attention we recognized the horns of a deer.  The owner of these horns must have been enormous for, at their tip, the two branches were more than one and one-half meters wide.  Perturbed and uneasy, he had raised his head, for a slight gust of wind blowing from our direction that had just passed over him had no doubt warned him of some pending danger.</P>
074.sgm:<P>We lay down on our stomachs flat in the grass.  The deer was out of range of our guns; furthermore, we could see only the tip of his head.  It was impossible for him to see us but obviously he had had wind of our presence.  He moved off from us with nostrils quivering and ears bent forward to catch the slightest sound.  Simultaneously a shot like the shot of a pistol was heard.  The animal after bounding on for three or four feet then fell down in the underbrush.</P>
074.sgm:<P>We started toward him; but as I have said, we were some 600 or 800 feet away, and the natural obstacles encountered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Since this was the first deer Tillier and I had seen at close range, we kept looking at it utterly fascinated.  The creature was as large as a small horse, and weighed fully 400 pounds.  But Aluna merely loaded the animal on his horse with the bored air of a man to whom this was an everyday occurrence.</P>
074.sgm:<P>By now it was almost five o'clock.  The spot was ideal for spending the night.  A gurgling little brook came down from the mountain only ten paces from where the deer had been dispatched.  After unloading the horse I allowed him to graze.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The deer after considerable difficulty was dragged over toward the edge of the stream and was hung by one of his hind feet from the limb of an oak; this fine tree had foliage so thick that in underneath its spreading branches the ground was fairly damp.  At the same time Aluna dressed our rabbits, squirrels, and partridges, using the same methods as with the deer, whose liver supplied us with an excellent and bountiful supper.  He then urged us to save what game we could not eat; and which might be sold later on at a profit.</P>
074.sgm:<P>In the meantime the tent was being erected, the fire lighted, and the cooking started.  The liver of the deer, cooked in fat in the frying pan and seasoned with a glass of wine and a few drops of brandy, made an excellent supper.  Since there was still some fresh bread left, the repast was quite complete and when compared to our evening meals at the mines, consisting largely of beans and tortillas, seemed a feast.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Supper over, Aluna proposed that we get some sleep, but we agreed only on condition that we were to be awakened toward midnight to go out hunting with him.  One of us, however, had to remain inside the tent to prevent jackals from coming to have a share of our game.  Being elated over the results of our hunt, neither Tillier nor I cared to remain behind, so we were forced to draw for the short straw.  I was the winner, Tillier being obliged to remain behind and guard the tent.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Wrapping ourselves in our covers we were soon asleep.  But this first rest did not last long.  Scarcely had darkness descended before we were awakened by the yapping of jackals.  Their yell sounded much as if a group of children were being slaughtered.  Now &amp; again we had heard their cries when out camping but never in so large a chorus.  Drawn by the odor of fresh meat, the precaution taken by Aluna of leaving a guard near our catch was obviously of vital importance.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At midnight we departed, climbing the mountain against the wind, a ruse devised so that game further up would not get wind of us.  I asked Aluna for some advice about hunting &amp; what I was expected to do.  According to what he reported the deer recently brought down was so large that it was undoubtedly the leader of a herd.  By waiting on the banks of the stream we should, according to Aluna, meet the rest of the herd on toward two o'clock in the morning.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Unless deceived about the dead leader's followers, the banks of the stream, according to his belief, would continue to be a good place for all kinds of game.  Aluna left me in a small cove in the rocks, stationing himself 100 feet beyond.  I crouched down in my recess, passed the ramrod of my gun down its muzzle to make sure the load had not been disturbed &amp;, finding everything in order, sat watching for what might appear.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XII: A NIGHT'S HUNT ON THE PRAIRIES</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>HUNTERS lying in wait for game invariably observe that during the night, which to man means a time of rest &amp; which he usually spends in sleep, Nature, especially in warm climates, seems fully awake.  Merely the type of activity differs.  This is characterized by a sense of restlessness, mysteriousness, and pending danger for such members of the animal kingdom as roam abroad.  Nyctalops alone seem at their ease for even the rustling wing of the horned-owl, the eagle, the screech-owl, &amp; of the bat breeds mystery; even the step of the wolf, the fox &amp; the many small carnivorous animals that hunt abroad after dark is furtive &amp; cautious; only the jackal with his incessant howls seems at home in the darkness.</P>
074.sgm:<P>However, to the city-bred man transported to the heart <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Gradually, man being an animal essentially amenable to education, he acquires all the same characteristics to such a degree that they are a part of his nature; at such a time night no longer seems mysterious; by acquiring such protection against danger he feels a sense of security, for he has now learned a way of defense.</P>
074.sgm:<P>After fifteen days passed out in the prairies under Aluna's tutelage and after suffering to a marked degree all the hopes &amp; fears of a hunter, I was able to distinguish the noise of a snake gliding through the grass, a squirrel leaping from branch to branch, a deer crunching bits of gravel under foot as he went down to drink at a brook.  On my first night, however, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>However, nothing actually happened; for this was a land where bear and other ferocious animals seldom ventured, especially during the summer season.  Nevertheless, although hearing loud noises all around me, nothing was visible.  Twice or three times I heard the isolated sounds of wild creatures who, whether from caprice or fright passed only ten, fifteen, or twenty feet away.  But since they ran off on one side or behind me and so were not within range of vision, merely the noise resounded.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Then out of the silence was heard the clear, ringing report of Aluna's rifle.  Suddenly sounds were heard in every direction; then I heard what seemed like the gallop of a horse approaching.  In an instant, over on the opposite side of the stream, passed an animal of enormous size, on whom I fired at random.  To appease my conscience, I fired twice.  Then I remained motionless, as if petrified by the report of the very rifle I was holding.  Almost immediately was heard a low whistle; from this I realized that Aluna wanted me to come to his assistance.</P>
074.sgm:<P>After ascending the banks of the brook, I discovered him engaged in performing on a hind the identical operation he had performed on the deer.  Both the doe &amp; buck had been struck on the same spot and had apparently succumbed at once to the wound.  Aluna now asked me what I had fired on, so I told him about the huge animal that had rushed past.  From my description Aluna was of the belief that my two shots had been fired at an elk.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>There was no chance of accomplishing anything more that night.  Our two shots seemed to have aroused every creature on the plains and, once intimidated, they would never be imprudent enough to return.  Having made a kind of bed of branches, on this our doe was placed; then each of us took hold of one of her hind feet and, pulling this bed of branches along with the animal in order to save the hide, which was used for very fine saddles, we began to drag her toward our tent.</P>
074.sgm:<P>We found Tillier up and waiting for us.  He had not once closed his eyes, having passed all the evening scaring off jackals, who seemed to have congregated from all the far corners of the prairie to attack our game.  Several had even fallen on the remains of the deer which we had thrown about twenty feet from our tent.  That they had found their quarry was soon known by the joyful yaps of those who had located this welcome feast, for they seemed to be laughing at the disappointed yells of their famished companions.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The hunt had been successful and was enough to warrant a trip back to San Francisco.  A deer, a doe, four rabbits, four squirrels, and two crested partridges had been caught.  So Tillier and I planned to leave at once for San Francisco in order to market our game.  Aluna remained behind to look after our tent and to attempt in our absence to kill, insofar as possible, a large number of buck and doe.</P>
074.sgm:<P>After considerable difficulty the deer and doe were packed on the back of our horse; we then added by way of ornament the hares, rabbits, squirrels, and partridges.  Shortly before dawn we took the road toward San Francisco Bay.  By not losing any time, at four o'clock we were in the city.  While returning to San Francisco there was no difficulty in tracing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The morning was crisp and delightful; never had Tillier and I felt so carefree and light-hearted.  In the independent life of the hunter there is joy and satisfaction akin to that of complete freedom.  Toward five o'clock in the morning we stopped for something to eat.  We had brought along some bread that had been hollowed out and where the crumbs had been removed we had placed what remained of the liver of our deer; in addition we had a flask filled with brandy and water.  This was a repast fit for a prince.</P>
074.sgm:<P>While lunching under a green oak and while our horse fully loaded was munching some twigs from a shrub of which he was especially fond, we sighted a dozen vultures which were circling about in a strange manner.  Their band was rapidly increasing and from twelve their number soon increased to twenty or twenty-five.  From their course they seemed to be following the trail across the prairie of some animal who, from time to time, was compelled to stop.  At such times they too would stop, ascend, then come down &amp; nearly alight on the ground; the next instant they would fly off as if frightened.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Obviously off on the prairie about one quarter of a league away, something out of the ordinary was occurring.  Taking my gun and orientating myself, to avoid getting lost, by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The scavengers became more and more agitated; from various points along the horizon more birds of the same species swiftly congregated.  There was something stupendous about the force &amp; power of this flight which was rapid as a cannon shot for, once under way, the birds moved without apparent effort.  Upon arriving at the congested area each scavenger seemed to succumb to the general feeling of curiosity; and to prepare to play his part, in so far as possible, in the drama that was taking place, or about to be enacted.  Since the flight of the vultures, once they were united, was not rapid &amp; since they merely flew here &amp; there among the crowd flying alternately up and down, I gained steadily on them.  Suddenly this flapping movement ceased; they became almost motionless, gave shrill cries, fluttered their wings, and then made a concerted movement.  By now I was nearly 100 feet from the spot where at any moment they seemed about to strike.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Here the prairie was at its thickest; even by raising up on my tiptoes my head was barely on a level with the grass; but I was guided, as I have said, by the band of robbers.  Gradually I moved on ahead.  Off in another direction I perceived Tiller standing up in a tree and calling to me from afar in words that I could not distinguish, at the same time making gestures that I could not understand.  From where he was standing he seemed to be able to see what was going on, and toward this by cries and gestures he was attempting to pilot me.  Being only some 500 paces away from the scene <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>When I had taken about twenty steps I seemed to hear groans, then the sounds that accompany a desperate combat; at the same time the thieves rose, turned, and then flew down with cries of fury.  From all appearances a thief had unexpectedly closed in on their prey which they were already regarding as their own exclusive property.  Upon hearing this noise and these groans which seemed quite near at hand, I redoubled my precautions &amp;, moving constantly ahead, was soon aware that I was only separated from the scene of this struggle, whatever this might be, by a comparatively short distance.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Quietly moving over the last obstacle and crawling like an adder I reached the edge of the grass.  An animal whose species I did not at first glance recognize was crouching ten feet away from me, still moving in the last throes of agony, &amp; serving as a kind barrier to conceal some man of whom I could perceive only the tip of the gun and the top of the head.  The man, with eye fixed on the spot where I should soon appear, was prepared to fire when I advanced.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Gun, head, intense eye, all this I recognized in a single, comprehensive glance.  Suddenly jumping up I cried: `Oh, Father Aluna, don't be foolish.  Good heavens, it is I!'  `I rather thought so,' replied Aluna, lowering his gun; `so much the better, you can come and help me.  But first fire off your gun at all these brawlers and squawkers hanging around, or they will not give us a moment's quiet.'  With these words he indicated the scavengers shrieking overhead.  I fired into the thick of the flock; one robber flopped over.  By now the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The coincidence was quite simple.  In accordance with my suggestions he had gone at daybreak to examine the place where I had fired on my elk, and here, just as I had expected, found my animal had apparently been wounded, a fact relatively easy to trace from the trail of blood left in his flight.  So Aluna started off at once to follow this blood trail.</P>
074.sgm:<P>With the keen knowledge of a hunter he soon recognized that the animal was not only wounded, but had wounds in two places--the neck and the hind leg.  The wounds were in the neck because branches, at the height of six feet, bore traces of blood; and in the hind-quarters, for when the elk crossed a sandy stretch, Aluna found on the sand only the marks of three feet.  He Knew then that the fourth, in place of touching the ground, was dragging, for this left on the ground a kind of irregular ridge, all covered with clots of blood.  Assuming that, thus crippled, the animal could not travel far, he had started off in pursuit.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Approximately at the end of a league he had found the grass trampled down and heavily stained with blood where the animal, exhausted by his wounds, had been forced to stop for a brief respite.  Only at the approach of Aluna had he pulled himself up and gone on.  And so the scavengers, as is their custom when an animal is wounded out on the prairie, were following him until he fell.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Of this flight, not being versed like Aluna in the mysteries of the chase, I could not surmise the cause; however, this had guided me as it had also guided him.  Unluckily for these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIII: SNAKE-GRASS</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>THERE WAS no possible way of loading this new burden on our poor, overloaded horse; he was carrying everything he was able to carry.  But off in the distance was seen a <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
074.sgm: bound from Santa Rosa to Sonoma.<ANCHOR ID="n13-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: This belonged to one of the rancheros.  Finally a bargain was struck with him whereby for two piasters he was to allow us to load our game in his <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1">The <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
074.sgm:<P>That evening he was returning to Santa Rosa &amp; so would bring back our horse whose pack, upon arriving in Sonoma, would be placed on the boat.  Aluna now set off along the route where he expected to find good hunting.  Accompanied by Tillier we continued on our journey.  By one o'clock that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>This butcher-shop was run by an American, whom I told what I had come for and what game had just been unloaded.  Under normal conditions in San Francisco a buck is valued at sixty to eighty piasters; a doe, at thirty to thirty-five piasters; a hare at six or eight; a crested partridge at one piaster; and a squirrel at one-half piaster.  There was no fixed price for elk.  I am of the belief that this was the first elk to be sold to the San Francisco market.  We agreed on a lump sum and, in exchange for over 500 pounds of meat, received 300 piasters.</P>
074.sgm:<P>That same evening we departed.  By rowing vigorously we pulled in to Sonoma about one o'clock in the morning, then lay down in the bottom of our boat &amp; slept until five o'clock.  Soon we were again under way to rejoin Aluna.  This time we veered somewhat to the right following the east slope of a small chain of hills where the grass was considerably lower than down on the plains and where, as a result, hunting was less arduous.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Seven or eight doe soon appeared.  We managed to kill two of them.  Now we had carefully observed the operation Aluna performed after their death, an operation more necessary in a warm climate like California than in other countries.  So we selected some branches of oaks having unusually thick <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Upon our arrival we saw a doe and a buck hanging from the limb of an oak.  Aluna in the meantime had apparently not been idle.  Then as the heat was quite intense we concluded he must be taking a siesta and so looked around very quietly.  He was in fact sleeping soundly.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But something else rolled up on his poncho was sleeping with him, something that brought terror to our hearts.  For here was a rattlesnake that had come over to enjoy the warmth and softness of his woolen blanket.  Aluna happened to be sleeping on his right side.  But if he were to turn over in his sleep onto his left side, and by so doing crush the snake into the ground, the snake would be sure to strike.  Tillier and I stood motionless on the threshold of the tent scarcely daring to breathe, with our eyes glued on this deadly reptile, not knowing what to do.  At the slightest sound Aluna might move; to move might mean death.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Finally we decided to remove this deadly sleeping companion, for the snake, too, seemed lost in slumber.  Aluna's position has already been described; he was sleeping on his right side rolled up in his poncho.  The reptile had glided close to him, in fact his tail and the lower end of his body were hidden inside the folds of his coat.  Some of the upper end was so twisted as to resemble the coils of a heavy cable, while the head was folded under the neck as if asleep.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Tillier, by circling around past Aluna's head, came over to the other side and by thrusting the barrel of his gun within the coil made by the sleeping snake, stood ready with a single <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The commotion had, however, awakened Aluna.  At first he may not have understood why Tillier had his gun and I my knife; but after one brief glance at the snake the situation was obvious.  `Ah, you earthworm!' he exclaimed, with a scorn impossible to convey.  Then stretching out his long arm he seized the serpent by the tail and whistling as he swung it around two or three times, as a slinger swings a rope, knocked its head against one of the stakes of our tent.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Then, with a disdainful gesture he threw it off about twenty feet, went away, walked down to the stream, washed his hands, wiped them on some oak leaves, and coming back to us remarked, `Well, did you make a good sale?'  Tillier and I were as white as sheets.  Tillier handed him our pouch.  Aluna after counting the piasters divided them into three equal portions, then with obvious satisfaction placed his 100 piasters in a leather pouch that hung from his belt.  Dating from this episode, Aluna in the eyes of both Tillier and myself won the respect he merited.</P>
074.sgm:<P>There was still another phase of it; that is, we did not take into consideration the part played by habit.  Quite possibly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>In fact, in his travels east, he had explored lands unknown even at the present day that lie between the two routes followed by caravans, regions extending from Lake Pyramid to St. Louis, Missouri, and from Monterey to Santa Fe&acute;.  In these extensive regions where rivers, lacking outlets, disappear in the sands or terminate in salt-impregnated lagoons and marshes, lands carrying bitumen and crossed only by men &amp; animals who are equally untamed,Aluna had grown accustomed to every kind of peril.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This is the way Aluna came to know rattlers.  One evening, near the left bank of the Colorado River in the land of the Navajo Indians, after indicating the trail to two missionaries and an Englishman who were lost, Aluna, who had a loathing for beaten routes, galloped off on his horse across the prairie.  Reaching on the banks of a stream a location that seemed suitable for spending the night, Aluna unrolled his buffaloskin and arranged his saddle as carefully as a housewife prepares sleeping quarters.  To broil a few slices of deer, as well as to keep off ferocious animals during the night, he lighted a fire, first taking the precaution, however, to pull out all the grass around the place used for a hearth to avoid setting fire to the prairies.</P>
074.sgm:<P>After the fire was started and the deer-steak cooking over the coals, Aluna was afraid he might run short of wood during the night.  Observing a large pine on the far side of the creek, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Then he saw rising from the grass the head of a rattlesnake; simultaneously from a sharp pain in the knee he was aware that the serpent had just struck.  His first feeling was one of rage.  Hurling himself on the reptile, Aluna with his Mexican knife cut the viper into three or four segments.  However, he was wounded; undoubtedly mortally wounded.  To go out and cut down wood to keep the fire burning was now useless, long before the fire would be out, Aluna would be dying.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Sad &amp; dejected he retraced his steps &amp;, offering up a prayer which he believed would be his last prayer on earth, sat down again near his fire; even now he believed he could distinguish throughout his body a cold numb feeling.  As he sat preparing for death to overtake him, with leg already numb, swollen, inflamed and turning blue, he suddenly remembered--and Aluna never doubted that it was in answer to his prayer that this remedy had been sent--he suddenly remembered, I say, that in clearing out the grass around his fire he had torn out large bunches of what the Indians call snake-grass.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Making a supreme effort he dragged himself over to the spot where he recalled having seen this herb.  Here, in fact, were two or three feet of the root Aluna had extracted.  Washing and cleaning his knife, for it was still slimy and thick with blood and masticating some of the roots to save time, he broke the remaining grass into small pieces, which he put to boil in a silver cup that had just been given him by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>In the meanwhile the root boiling in the cup was forming a dark-green liquid which emitted a strongly alkaline odor.  Under normal conditions this drink would have been unbearable to swallow.  Aluna, however, diluted it with water and despite his repugnance drank the entire amount.  This act saved his life.  No sooner had he drunk this liquid than dizziness overcame him; the ground seemed to move, the sky turned livid overhead, the moon which was just rising seemed like an enormous head that had been wounded and was sweating blood.</P>
074.sgm:<P>He gave a long sigh believing the end was near, and fell down motionless on his bison-robe.  At dawn the following morning Aluna was awakened by his horse who, not knowing the cause of his master's profound slumber, was licking his face.  Upon awakening he could not at first recall what had occurred.  He experienced a general feeling of weakness, with dull pains and great lassitude.  A semi-paralysis seemed to have spread throughout the lower half of his body.  Then he remembered what had happened.</P>
074.sgm:<P>With acute anxiety he pulled his wounded leg toward him, rolled up his trousers and looked at the wound under the bandage of crushed roots which he had fastened around his leg with his handkerchief.  The wound was red and the leg only slightly inflamed.  He now renewedthe operation of the previous evening and crushed more of the healing root; this time, however, despite its alkaline odor, despite its flavor of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>After this, lacking strength to reach shade, he slipped under his buffalo robe.  There, perspiring profusely, he remained until three o'clock that afternoon.  By three o'clock he felt strong enough to go over to the stream to bathe his leg and drink a few mouthfuls of fresh water.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Although his head still felt heavy &amp; his pulse was beating feverishly, Aluna realized he was improving.  He called to his horse, who came at his master's order, put on a saddle, rolled up his buffalo-robe, took a supply of snake-grass &amp;, climbing with considerable effort up into the saddle, rode over toward a Navajo village some five or six leagues away.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Here lived some natives with whom he was on friendly terms and by whom he was warmly received.  An old Indian nursed his wound and as he was already well on the road to recovery, this wound soon healed.  From then on Aluna invariably regarded a rattlesnake bite like any ordinary accident; however, he always carried in a small skin pouch some of the grass &amp; the healing root, replenishing these whenever the opportunity afforded.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIV: ALUNA</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>ALUNA often said, as he raised his head with a certain melancholy movement, `How foolish I once was!'  We never knew to what folly he referred.  I personally believe and, despite evidence to the contrary, persisted in my belief that for Aluna these words, `How foolish I once was,' simply had reference to a time when he was in love.  From other bits of conversation dropped in the course of our long evening chats I was led to believe, as I have just said, that once Aluna had been in love and, having lost the woman he loved, had become so morose that his conduct had bordered on folly.  But how had he lost her?  This was a point that invariably remained a mystery, for as Aluna never made any definite remarks on the subject, I can speak only from inference.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At the time Aluna had conducted himself so foolishly he was living near the Wind River Mountains along the banks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>One evening after a long absence he came in and found a door he had expected to find closed standing ajar.  He believed he could see where a pile of corn which had been stacked in one corner of the cabin and which had reached almost to the ceiling had greatly diminished.  Although he did not value this supply of corn highly, and would gladly have shared this at any time with any neighbor who might have asked for it, yet Aluna did not like to have anyone take what he owned without first informing him, for in this loss he saw not only the actual robbery but also evidence of what seemed like scorn on the part of the thief toward his victim.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Under such circumstances the robbery put Aluna in bad humor.  Now the culprit had left the door open and with the expectation of returning had evidently made himself quite at home.  So Aluna lay down, keeping a kind of hatchet that was used for carpenter work close at hand.  With his Mexican knife thrust in his belt, he awaited the thief.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But for Aluna, as for all men engaged in active work, sleep, even if only for short periods, is absolutely imperative.  As a result, no matter how much Aluna tried to keep awake, he dozed off occasionally.  In the middle of the night he awakened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The thief, so it seemed, had not even taken the trouble to come over to the bed, but in the belief that Aluna was always absent, had begun noisily to forage in the pile of corn.  To Aluna this seemed absolutely brazen, and he called out in Spanish, `Who's there?'  The noise stopped, but no one answered.  Aluna jumped out of bed and, as the robber failed to reply, repeated his question in the Indian dialect.  But the question met with no more success in one language than in the other.  This silence proved annoying.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The individual in the cabin, whoever he might be, apparently intended to leave as he had entered, that is, incognito.  He even seemed to walk with slow and heavy feet, like a man who fears to be overheard, although from time to time his breathing, over which he apparently lacked control, revealed his presence.  Aluna was even inclined to believe that these steps instead of approaching the door were approaching him.  Of this he soon had no doubt; the robber, hoping to surprise him, was advancing toward the recess which he used as an alcove.  Aluna now prepared to put up a fight.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Since this gave evidence of being a hand to hand conflict, he grasped his knife in his left hand, his hatchet in his right &amp; waited.  Soon he felt rather than saw that his adversary was only about two feet away.  Reaching out his hand, he touched a rough and shaggy coat.  All doubt now vanished; his robber was a bear.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna recoiled quickly; but behind him was the wall that prevented him from moving backward.  No matter what his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna had barely time, by slipping his hand under the bear's paw, to press the handle of his knife against his Mexican cartridge belt.  As a result the more the bear clutched Aluna tightly against his body, the more the knife was forced of its own accord into the brute's chest.  In the meanwhile, with his right hand Aluna kept striking the bear's nose with the iron-clad handle of his hatchet.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The bear, however, is an animal with an extraordinarily tough hide, and it took him some time to realize that he was stabbing himself by closely hugging Aluna.  Just as the latter was beginning to find the embrace too arduous, by good luck the knife penetrated his vital organs.  Instantly the bear uttered a shriek of rage, hurling Aluna away from him.  Thrown with a violence more terrific than he had ever experienced, Aluna might have been flattened out against the wall.  But by accident he fell through the open door and rolled out about ten paces beyond.  In the struggle Aluna had, unfortunately, lost his hatchet, and as he had left his knife in the bear's stomach he was now unarmed.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Luckily, near enough to be reached was an oak stake, pointed like a sword, that had been prepared along with several others to form an enclosure around the house.  Against this stake Aluna had been thrown.  As he arose, although somewhat exhausted from the struggle, he took hold of it.  In the hands of a vigorous man like Aluna, this weapon was as deadly as a club in the hands of Hercules.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This he soon had occasion to use, for the animal, infuriated at the doublewound, followed him menacingly from the cabin.  Though not tenacious of life, yet Aluna did not propose to die in so harsh a manner as that which threatened as the maddened animal raged toward him.  Mustering every ounce of strength to meet what might prove a mortal combat, he rained on the bear a shower of blows heavy enough to break a bull's back.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But the bear, with all the adroitness of a fencer, warded off most of the blows as they fell, attempting constantly to seize the stake and wrest it from Aluna's hand.  Had it not been for his wounded paw he would have succeeded immediately, although in the end he won out.  Now that the stake had been caught by the animal Aluna made no effort to resist and merely let go his hold, which was released at the very moment when the bear was about to inflict a violent blow.  The bear, expecting him to resist, fell over backward.  Aluna, taking advantage of this brief respite to rush into his house, quickly closed the door behind him.  But the bear had no intention of allowing him to escape.  By throwing the full force of his weight against the door just as Aluna was closing it, man and beast, separated only by the door that had finally pulled off its hinges, rolled over into the room.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>As he fell Aluna put his hand on his missing hatchet and, using this and one of his arms for a shield, lifted up the door behind which he took refuge.  At the same time the bear, just as Aluna had expected, also caught hold of the door with his two paws.  Aluna then released his hold and, bringing down the hatchet that he fortunately carried, wounded the animal on the other paw.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Injured now in both front paws and with a knife buried deep in his chest the bear, finally aware that the odds were against him, began to consider trying to retreat.  Aluna had by this time manoeuvered in such a way that he could reach his gun, which up until now he had been unable to use.  With this finally in hand, he leaped up, cocked the gun, and placed it across the entrance.  While thus engaged, the moon peered out from the clouds as if to aid Aluna by enabling him to see what he was doing.  The bear seemed to hesitate for a time as if trying to decide whether to leave the house; then with a thundering growl started over toward the door.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna now barricaded the entrance, gun in hand.  But the bear still had strength enough to fight, according to his habit, at close range.  Aluna, alert to his every movement, stepped back and fired, aiming at the side opposite to where the knife had entered.  The bear, recoiling some two paces, fell over backward with a heavy thud.  The ball had pierced his heart.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Despite the fact that this bear was black, he was nearly as tall as a gray bear and weighed 800 pounds.  Had Aluna, on the other hand, met a grizzly bear, instead of having to combat a black one, the affair might have terminated in quite another manner.  The gray bear uses both teeth and claws in a fight whereas the black bear, on the contrary, does not use <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna had many other narrow escapes as well so that by comparison what he faced with us seemed of minor importance.  These dangers had left their definite impress on him;  nevertheless, he spoke of them without emotion, being invariably ready to face them again without hesitating, should the occasion arise.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But of his adventures along the Colorado River and in the swamps of Eastern Texas, where he had had two horses devoured by alligators and monsters, he spoke with deeper feeling.  Now an alligator is quite familiar to us all; but I question whether scholars or even naturalists have ever heard of a <HI REND="italics">carvana</HI>
074.sgm:.  For my part I hesitate to say that a <HI REND="italics">carvana</HI>
074.sgm: may perhaps have existed merely in Aluna's imagination.  Be this as it may, a <HI REND="italics">carvana</HI>
074.sgm:<P>This monster lives, so it seems, in Eastern Texas out in those vast marshes that present on the surface the appearance of solid ground, but which are actually nothing more than vast lakes of slime, where in a few seconds horse and rider founder.  Through these treacherous dungeons of death exist, however, a few trails marked by thick growth of reeds.  These trails are known only to the Indians and local inhabitants.  But how are they known?  This is what they themselves would probably find difficult to explain; the lone traveler, who has no possible way of locating these narrow causeways, is invariably lost in the marshes.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>In addition, still another danger exists.  Here and there off on the prairies, grow small clumps of brambles measuring fifteen or twenty feet in circumference.  If the traveler before proceeding observes closely, he recoils in fright, for coiled in these bushes may be seen the bodies of myriads of snakes unknown to the prairies, which dwell only on these leafy islands.  These reptiles are the water-moccasin, the brown viper, &amp; the red-headed black snake, three serpents whose bite is fatal &amp; more rapid perhaps in its effects than that of the rattler.  Even so, the traveler bitten by them is more fortunate than the man who is a victim of the alligator's tail or the teeth of a <HI REND="italics">carvana</HI>
074.sgm:<P>Now these two monsters have their haunts, sd already indicated, in these beds of slime.  A horse losing its foothold is immediately doomed; with eye aflame he [struggles] for an instant with bristling mane and nostrils quivering in the mire where he cannot swim; then suddenly shuddering gives a feeble quiver, as he finally feels himself being drawn down by some irresistible force into an abyss.  Gradually he disappears, struggling against some hidden enemy.  Of this monster all that is visible is a croeked tail, bristling with rough scales that glisten through the mud.  An alligator's attack and defense is made by the use of this enormoustail which, curving in a semi-circle doubles back to his jaws.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Unfortunate is the man who, through imprudence or chance crosses the path of this hideous tail!  This dangerous animal strikes with his tail whatever he wishes to devour, then pushes it toward the jaws which, as soon as the tail begins to move, open to their full capacity while the head turns to one side ready to receive what the tail is sending and which is instantaneously crushed by these hideous and deadly jaws.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>From this same alligator, however, the planters of Texas, New Mexico, and the neighboring regions secure fat which is used to grease the wheels of their mills.  During the season for hunting alligators, that is, about the middle of autumn, these animals seem to come &amp; surrender of their own accord.  Leaving their muddy lakes and slimy rivers they now emerge to seek warmer winter quarters.  In so doing they dig holes under the roots of trees, then bury themselves underground.  At this season they also gorge themselves to such an extent that they are no longer dangerous.  The negroes who hunt them at this time of year cut the tail from the balance of the body with a single blow of the hatchet, and yet even this terrific impact scarcely arouses them.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This first step accomplished, the alligators are then cut into pieces which are thrown into immense caldrons where, as fast as the water boils, the fat rises to the surface.  This a negro collects with a large spoon.  Ordinarily only one man is needed for the triple task of killing the alligator, boiling it, and extracting the fat.  Negroes, so it is said, often kill as many as fifteen alligators in a single day.  There is no record of them receiving, at this time of the year, the slightest scratch.</P>
074.sgm:<P>As for the <HI REND="italics">carvana</HI>
074.sgm:, that is quite another story.  This monster is far more destructive, far more dangerous, than the alligator at its worst.  However, none has been seen alive.  Nor is the monster of any apparent value, even if he should appear.  But when lagoons dry up, or after the rivers change their channels, dead <HI REND="italics">carvanas</HI>
074.sgm: have been found, and are known to resemble gigantic tortoises with shells ten or twelve feet long &amp; six feet wide.  The head and tail are like those of an alligator.  Hiding in the mud much as the ant-lion hides in the sands, he awaits <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>One day, however, some officers of an American engineering corps who were measuring distances between New Mexico &amp; New Orleans, saw one of their comrades fall into the jaws of a <HI REND="italics">carvana</HI>
074.sgm:<P>The anchor of a small boat was attached to a chain thirty or forty feet long; to this anchor a lamb about two weeks old was attached for bait.  The anchor and lamb were then thrown down into the mud, the far end of the chain being bound around the base of a tree.  Here a negro was stationed to guard this strange line that had been cast overboard.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The following day the negro came running to say that the <HI REND="italics">carvana</HI>
074.sgm: was dead, and that the shaking he had given to the anchor which he had in all probability swallowed had been felt on the chain, and was causing the tree to shake.  Since it was too late to attempt to land the <HI REND="italics">carvana</HI>
074.sgm:<P>At dawn the following day all met at the rendezvous.  The chain was found to have been strained to such an extent that the bark of the tree around which it was wrapped had been cut as if by a saw.  Some ropes were quickly tied to the chain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:and to these ropes were yoked two horses.  Although these horses were lashed and whipped, yet their combined efforts proved ineffectual to pull the <HI REND="italics">carvana</HI>
074.sgm:<P>At length, aware that these horses were making no headway, the farmer sent out for the two strongest oxen on his farm.  These were now yoked up with the horses &amp; also urged to pull.  For a time some hope was entertained that their efforts might bear fruit; for a moment the surface of the slime was shaken by a submarine trembling,as the tip of the animal's jaws appeared.  Suddenly the anchor, pulled violently away, rebounded from the swamps upon the banks.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Of the flukes of the anchor one was broken; the other, badly twisted, warped, and battered, carried with it bits of flesh and bone torn from the jaws of the monster.  But the creature remainedinvisible, and from the manner in which the mud was agitated, the inference was that he was lying far down in the depths of the abyss.  Of such a character were the hideous monsters that had inspired such horror in the mind of our comrade Aluna, yet the feeling he exhibited in speaking of these almost mythical creatures was tinged more with disgust than with fear.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Another day he was traveling along the Rocky Mountains between their base and a lake which had not as yet been named by any traveler.  Here Aluna was chased by a troop of shaggy Indians.  Now the cock of his gun was broken and, as he felt his horse give way under him and realized that with fresh horses the Indians must eventually overtake him, he concluded to take advantage of the fact that darkness was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>This subterfuge was quite simple; he merely lashed his horse forcing him to continue on riderless and to keep to the road.  The result was that the more the Indians gained on the horse who, relieved of his rider, now redoubled his speed and made headway, the further they would be carried away from their victim.</P>
074.sgm:<P>So, heading toward a small pine forest and having already removed his stirrups, the instant he passed under one of these trees he seized a strong branch and held on, while the horse continued on ahead.  Aluna then pulled his feet up on the same limb to which he was held only by his hands, and in a second climbed up into the tree.  A dozen savages passed at a lively gallop below.  Aluna both saw and heard them, but not an Indian caught a glimpse of Aluna.  When they were far away and when the noise of their galloping horses was no longer distinguishable, Aluna came down and looked around for a place in which to pass the night.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Within a few moments he found one of those caverns so frequently found at the base of the Rocky Mountains; this led into a vast and spacious cavern, one which, however, was full of gloom, being lighted only by the passage Aluna had discovered.  Gliding in like a snake, Aluna searched for and finally found a large stone which he rolled against the aperture so that no one, either man or beast, would attempt to come in after him.  Rolling up in his poncho, and being worn out as he was by fatigue, he was soon sound asleep.</P>
074.sgm:<P>So profoundly did Aluna sleep, especially in the beginning, that he had difficulty in waking up enough to find out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna, raising his head to convince himself he was not dreaming, put his hand down &amp; felt two baby jaguars about the size of large cats who, attracted no doubt by the odour of fresh meat, were toying with Aluna's legs, and scratching around with their claws where the slits up the sides of his trousers left his leg exposed.  He immediately realized that he had entered a cave that was the retreat of a jaguar and her young; that the mother and father were probably off hunting and would soon return and that, asa result, the only thing to do was to leave immediately.  Snatching his gun and rolling up his poncho, he started to push back the stone, abandon the refuge he had discovered, and move on out into the open.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But the moment he laid his hand on the stone he heard, less than 100 paces away, a low growl that warned him he was too late, &amp; that the female had returned.  Another growl barely twenty feet away told him she was returning at full speed.  Simultaneously he could feel against the stone the pressure of the animal attempting to come into her cave to her young.  The little ones, on their part, answered the mothers's growls by a kind of soft whimpering full of impatient threats.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna had his gun; but, as has been said, the cock was broken, making this part of the gun useless.  Aluna, however, devised a way to make it of service.  Placing his back against the stone to keep it in position, despite the efforts of the jaugar he began to load his gun as rapidly as possible.  Simple as was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Two feet away, behind the stone that kept moving every moment by the force of her pressure, roared the female jaugar.  He could feel her powerful breath at close range whenever she thrust her head in the crevices left open at points where the stone was badly joined to the wall.  Once he even felt her paw reaching in on his shoulder.  But nothing swerved Aluna from the important operation he was accomplishing.  Having loaded his gun, Aluna struck the steel to ignite a spark from the flint.  At each spark that flew off the stone he glanced around the cave all strewn with the bones of animals devoured by the two jaguars; among these bones were the two young jaguars who looked at him &amp; jumped as each spark was struck.</P>
074.sgm:<P>In the meanwhile the mother continued to storm against the stone blocking the entrance.  Aluna had however loaded his gun, and lighted his flint; his turn to be the aggressor had now come.  Turning around and keeping in so far as possible the weight of his body against the stone, he then pointed the barrel of his carbine through the crack where the jaguar's  head and paw had appeared.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Watching this strange object approach and threaten her, the jaguar finally seized it with her teeth, attempting to crush it as she would a bone.  This was the very indiscretion on which Aluna had counted.  Approaching the loaded gun with his bit of lighted tinder, he fired off the shot.  The jaguar swallowed the entire charge--lead, powder, and fire.  A smothered roar followed by a cry of agony warned Aluna that his enemy had been conquered.  He could now breath freely again.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The truce proved to be only short-lived.  As he got up from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The jaguar had paused an instant near his dead mate and roared pathetically.  Then, the funeral oration over, he hurled himself against the stone.  Aluna, from within, replied by a grunt that might perhaps be interpreted as follows: `Come on, my good friend, come on, before long we shall chat over our little affairs in person!'</P>
074.sgm:<P>In fact, with his gun loaded Aluna was on the point of striking his flint when he discovered that in the rather hasty movements he had just made he had lost his tinder-box.  His situation was extremely grave; without a tinder, no fire; without a fire, no means of defense.  The carbine, reduced to its simplest terms, was nothing more than an iron tube that as a last resort might serve as a club, and nothing more.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna felt in vain with his hands to the right and left, but could not locate it.  He searched futilely with his feet among whatever was within reach, but his foot touched only stones &amp; bones.  All this time, against the stone were being directed some severe thrusts; the jaguar breathing noisily even reached out now and again with his paw and touched the shoulder of the hunter from whose forehead drops of sweat began to pour.  Were these caused by impatience, or by fear?  Aluna, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Acting upon this impulse Aluna had only to fasten his knife in the Mexican fashion to the tip of his gun.  This was readily accomplished, for every hunter out on the plains invariably carries with him a strap arrangement by means of which, should he decide to pass the night under a tree, he either swings himself from a branch, or attaches himself to the trunk of a tree.  Tying his knife to the tip of his gun, his equipment was ready.  He then returned and leaned up against the stone in such a way that, during the move he was about to make, the bulwark on which he relied for protection could not be moved.  From the pressure directed against the stone Aluna was aware that he was dealing with no paltry enemy.  Seizing an opportune moment when the jaguar was hurling himself against the obstacle that he was attempting to break down on his side, Aluna thrust out his carbine as a soldier charges, bayonet in hand.</P>
074.sgm:<P>From the jaguar came a loud roar.  Something cracked; the carbine, wrested from the hand of its owner, rolled two paces away, while the animal jumped back with a yell.  Aluna picked up his gun and examined it.  The knife was found to have broken about two-thirds up the blade; of the handle there remained only a fragment measuring one and one-half inches, the rest being in the wound he had made.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This was what caused the howling; this was what caused <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>He seized this opportunity to rid himself first of all of the two young jaguars who had been scratching him with their claws while he was engaged in the fight with their father and mother.  Grabbing each of them in turn by their hind paws, he dashed their brains out against the walls of the cave.  Then, being very thirsty and having no water, he drank the blood of the two little ones.</P>
074.sgm:<P>What especially frightened Aluna was the fact that he was beginning to feel the lack of sleep.  Moreover, he was convinced that within a certain lengh of time this need would become imperative, &amp; could not be ignored.  While asleep the jaguar, although momentarily frightened off, might return, push back the stone, or tear one away at one side, &amp; in either event fall unexpectedly on the sleeper and devour him.</P>
074.sgm:<P>To leave was out of the question; the beast might be hiding close by &amp; leap out unexpectedly on the fugitive.  So he concluded to sleep where he was, in other words, leaning up against the stone that barred the entrance to the cave, so that the least pressure exerted against the stone would cause him to awake.  The stone did not move, and Aluna slept quite tranquilly until on toward two o'clock in the morning.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At two he opened his eyes, conscious of a noise coming from another section of the cave where he believed he recalled having seen a crevice.  Indeed, a persistent scratching sound was heard, &amp; small stones falling down like showers of hail indicated that here someone was working from outside.  Unluckily all this going on up near the roof, some twelve feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>He glanced down at his carbine.  Useless for firing, useless as a lance, this might be used as a club.  Only under such conditions it would be necessary to employ merely the barrel to avoid breaking the butt-end needlessly and thus entirely ruining his gun.  Rapidly detaching the knife from the end of the barrel, with what remained of the blade he unscrewed the wood &amp; the locks, arming himself only with the heavy barrel.  Then with tense eye, throbbing heart, &amp; arm raised he waited.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But it was soon evident that he would not have long to wait.  Heavy stones fell constantly.  Through the interstices of the ceiling the breathing of the animal was heard.  Soon daylight, or rather night, was visible, a night lighted by a moon that sent vertical rays down through the hole the jaguar was piercing.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Now and again this hole, through which Aluna caught glimpses of the sky aglow with stars, appeared to be hermetically sealed; the animal to test its size from time to time thrust his head down.  At such times the rays of light were intercepted, and as a substitute for this ray of light there shone, like two glowing carbuncles, the jaguar's flaming eyes.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Gradually the size of the hole increased.  Having lowered his head the beast then pushed in his shoulders; finally head, shoulders and body passed through and the animal coming in from outside dropped silently down on his four paws directly opposite Aluna.  Fortunately the blade of the knife that had been plunged in his shoulder prevented him from pouncing immediately on Aluna's throat.  He paused an instant, perhaps in pain; this instant was enough for his adversary.  The barrel of the carbine now fell on the jaguar's head, stunning him.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna lost no time falling on the beast and with the remaining tip of the knife soon cut the vein in his neck.  From this wound ebbed his lifeblood.  This act occurred just in time.  Aluna was by now worn out by fatigue.  Dragging the animal to a lighted spot in the cave where the soil appeared to be formed of soft sand and making a pillow of the beast who was not yet cold, he fell into a profound sleep from which he did not awake until long after daybreak.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XV: ALONG THE SACRAMENTO</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>NOW THIS mode of life which because of its freedom has so much charm, especially for men born &amp; raised in the country who frequently devote their entire lives to it, had for us, too, an inexpressible lure.  Tiring as it was to travel semi-weekly to San Francisco to sell the products of our hunting, we did not take this into consideration, or rather we accepted it, being, especially in the beginning, well remunerated for the concomitant fatigue.  Our profits frequently ran as high as three or four hundred piasters a week.  The first month we took in, after all expenses were paid, 400 piasters; however, during the last two &amp; particularly during the last week when we cleared only 150 piasters, the drop proved that this speculation was about over.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Hunting for one thing had begun to thin out in this region; furthermore, the game we were after withdrew toward Lake Laguna, the country of the Kinklas Indians, searching for regions where they would be less pursued.  Finally plans were formulated to push further away toward the northeast and find a market for what game we brought in at Sacramento City.  Upon our arrival we secured full information as to whether the placers of the Sacramento surpassed those of the San Joaqui&acute;n, &amp; whether the Young, the Yuba, or the Feather River was preferable to the mining-camps at Sonora, Pine Pass, and Murphy's.  So when our game had largely disappeared, this plan was put into execution &amp;, leaving our boat at Sonoma, we traveled on toward the American fork.  From there the range of Californian mountains was crossed from west to east.  After one and one-half days hunting our poor horse was loaded down with game.  We now found ourselves on the banks of the Sacramento.  After ascending the river for two or three hours a boat of salmon fishermen came up &amp;, for the sum of four piasters, agreed to ferry us &amp; our game over to the opposite bank.  Although the river at this point must have been nearly a quarter of a mile broad, yet our horse was able to swim across.</P>
074.sgm:<P>From the fishermen information was secured as to conditions at the mines.  While they could not give us much definite news, nevertheless they had heard rumors to the effect that the Americans were ruining everything by their banditry.  This did not in the least astonish Tillier and me, having already had a sample of their conduct along the San Joaqui&acute;n River.  Aluna for his part merely shrugged his shoulders and screwed up his lips, as much as to say, `Ah, my word, I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>We pushed on to Sacramento City and even as far as Sutter's Fort to ascertain for ourselves how far we might rely on these rumors.  What the salmon-fishers had said was confirmed; the mines were in the throes of a revolution.  Fearing to lose what little wealth we had so laboriously collected, we now retraced our steps, descending the Sacramento on a boat that we rented for forty piasters.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At Sacramento City, our game sold for eighty dollars; near the American fork, the dollar passes for legal tender, whereas on the Sacramento all transactions are computed in piasters.  The rented boat belonged to the salmon-fishers, who had guaranteed to land us where we chose provided, however, that not more than four days were required to go down from Sacramento City to Benicia, below Suisun Bay.  Aluna followed along the left bank with the horse.</P>
074.sgm:<P>So magnificent is the Sacramento Valley that it belies description, bounded as it is on the east by the Sierra Nevada, on the west by the California mountains, and on the north by Mt. Shasta.  From north to south it measures approximately 200 miles.</P>
074.sgm:<P>When the snows melt and the Sacramento overflows the level rises eight or nine feet.  This can be readily recognized by the traces of sediment deposited on the trunks of trees.  This slime, like that of the Nile, remaining on the banks of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>In certain places the Sacramento is one-half mile wide; the average depth is three or four meters, the result being that ships of 200 tons can navigate.  In the Sacramento are found great quantities of salmon which are also numerous throughout its affluents.  The salmon leave the sea in spring &amp; ascend the river in swarms for about 500 miles.  By following the main stream no obstacles are encountered, but on beyond, whether following the Sacramento or venturing up its affluents, their ascent is impeded by cascades, by dams made by the Indians or erected by farmers for some definite purpose, or even by gold-seekers, exploiting the rivers.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Here the fish struggle in vain to cross these bars or barricades.  When approaching the limb of a tree or a rock which might retard their progress, they approach, swim along it, dart underneath, trace an arc, then mustering every ounce of strength, jump frequently twelve or fifteen feet up in the air.  Their leap is always so gauged that they will fall into the upper waters toward which they are moving.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At the fork of the Sacramento and the San Joaqui&acute;n lie a dozen low, wooded islands characterized by impassable marshy areas.  These are covered with tule, a growth indigenous to all low and humid regions in this country.  To devotees of waterfowl this is a veritable collector's paradise, for these lagoons swarm with duck, cormorant, stork, kingfishers, and magpies of every kind &amp; description.  In four days we were in Benicia.  After settling our bill with the fishermen we pushed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Here Gauthier and Mirandole were found to be still quite ill, figuratively speaking, from the last fire.  They had lost approximately as much merely by moving their goods as others had actually lost by the fire.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The morning of our arrival we happened to run across one of our friends, Adolphe by name, who lived on a ranch between San Francisco Bay and the Californian range.  Adolphe invited us to come &amp; spend a day or so at his ranch, promising to allow us to participate in a lively bear-hunt, which was to take place within the next day or two.  We accepted.  During these two days Tillier and I hoped to find time to discuss what plans we would adopt for the future.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVI: HUNTING BEAR</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>THE HUNT that had been promised by our friend Adolphe was set for the day following the arrival of Tillier, Aluna, and myself at his country place which was located, as I have said, between the San Francisco Bay and the Californian mountains.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The bear which was to be pursued was the gray bear, <HI REND="italics">Ursus horribilis</HI>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna, noted for his long years of experience in this very type of hunting, had been placed in charge of the expedition.  Thirty men remained in ambush, men and horses standing ready to render mutual assistance.  At dawn the bear descended, the hunters had the wind against them &amp; a bear of less size and milder nature would have recoiled before this hint of danger.  The animal in question stopped, reared up on his hind legs, caught the wind and, recognizing clearly that trouble was brewing, concluded to go directly over to the first clump of trees where the leader of the bear-hunt was hiding.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This leader was our old friend Aluna who, accepting the challenge, bravely left his shelter &amp; marched directly toward him.  When within thirty feet of the bear he hurled his lasso toward him; this fell around his neck &amp; one of his paws.  Then, knotting the end of the lasso to the pommel of his saddle, he called out to companions, `Come on now, we have him!'</P>
074.sgm:<P>The bear remained for a moment stunned at the brusqueness of the attack of which he failed to sense the full significance.  He had received ablow without experiencing any pain and seemed to regard with astonishment, although no uneasiness, the first rope around him.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Three or four lassos were now hurled simultaneously from different directions.  All reached the animal &amp; held him more or less securely. The bear at this point turned to charge but the riders to a man urged their horses to a gallop and rode at top speed in advance.  Enmeshed in these ropes the bear experienced considerable difficulty in following them.  The remaining hunters coming out, in turn, from their hiding places entangled him still further.  In an instant the bear, with thirty lassos around him, seemed to be held as if in a net.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>He was now powerless to fight against such odds and for the first time began no doubt to regret having come down from his mountain lair, to which he yearned to return.  But this could not be accomplished without the consent of the hunters.  For an instant he attempted to break away; once he seemed about to succeed.</P>
074.sgm:<P>In a short time the thirty riders and the thirty horses were dragged 500 feet and forced, because of his great strength, to follow in his wake.  Then all veered simultaneously and, with cries of encouragement mingled with the clashing of spurs, succeeded in gaining the upper hand.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The power of resistance exhibited by this great brute was frightful to witness.  At times when the slightest opportunity offered he was able against our full force to drag us after him.  His eyes resembled two fountains of dripping blood; his mouth seemed to belch forth flames like those of a chimera; his groans resounded a league away.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Finally, not after a hunt but after a fight lasting an hour, the animal yielded; he now let himself be dragged along as far as Don Castro's rancho where, utterly exhausted, he was killed with rifles.  He weighed 1100 pounds, double that of an ordinary steer.  He was divided among all three hunters.  Some of this bear-meat sold in the San Francisco market for one piaster a pound for which the butchers, however, paid three francs.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This hunt recalled to Aluna's mind the happy days of his youth and gave him the idea, which he confided to us, of going out to hunt bear along the Mariposa and of not returning to San Francisco until on toward the middle of September.  His proposal was accepted and the very evening of our return to the city preparations were made to depart.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVII: THE MARIPOSA</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>AT THIS TIME different arrangements had to be made.  What was lacking was not a boat but a wagon and a second horse.  By selling our boat for approximately the same price we had paid for it we were able to secure both.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The presidios and ranchos which we ourselves dubbed `presides' &amp; `ranchs' have already been mentioned.  Presidios, as has been said, are small forts at which a few soldiers are stationed.  Ranchos are a kind of farm.  The name of <HI REND="italics">rancheri&acute;a</HI>
074.sgm:<P>The missions were originally large establishments maintained for the benefit of Indian subjects desiring to be instructed in the Christian faith who, once instructed in the faith, were expected to devote themselves to some specific work.  Whoever has seen one mission has seen them all; they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>These missions were Capuchin missions.<ANCHOR ID="n17-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1">All missions in Upper California were under the Franciscan Order.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>Around the establishment extended gardens and beyond the gardens clustered Indian huts, usually built of straw and reeds.  The Indian neophytes were fed at the mission.  Although the Capuchins were not remarkable cooks, yet since there was no way to rectify this out in this remote land, they prepared their own food as well as that of the Indians.  This food consisted of corn cakes, of boiled beef or mutton, and of all kinds of fruits.  They did not drink wine.  What wine was made in the mission or brought in from the settlements was kept for invalids or reserved for visitors.  Neophytes &amp; workers were instructed gratuitously.  Everything in these establishments was accomplished by persuasion, not by force.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Pueblos are nothing more than villages that were established originally by soldiers who had seen service at the presidios and to whom had been granted, in exchange for these services, a definite amount of land, which they were free to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:select wherever they preferred, provided the land they desired was vacant.<ANCHOR ID="n17-2">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-2">These pueblos were actually colonized by settlers brought up for this purpose from Mexico.  Many, however, were soldiers.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>The day of our departure we went down to pass the night at the pueblo of San Jose&acute;, situated in the center of a magnificent valley on the Guadalupe River, a small stream that descends from the Californian mountains and finally empties into the lower end of San Francisco Bay.  This is some four leagues from Mission Santa Clara with which it is connected by a long avenue entirely shaded by live oaks.  These oaks were originally planted by the Fathers with the idea that once they were grown they would cast their protecting shade over the faithful who went from the pueblo of San Jose&acute; to hear mass at Mission Santa Clara.<ANCHOR ID="n17-3">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-3">These oaks were indigenous to California; along this road the Fathers planted the Australian eucalyptus.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>The pueblo of San Jose&acute; was built in 1777, or 1778.<ANCHOR ID="n17-4">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: In 1848, that is before gold was discovered, its population numbered about 600 inhabitants who occupied 100 or 150 brick houses, scattered on both sides of a road lined with great trees.<ANCHOR ID="n17-5">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: At the present, or rather at the time when we stopped overnight at the pueblo, the settlement consisted of 1,000 houses two or three stories high, while the population, which then totaled five thousand was rapidly increasing.  The result was that instead of giving away free land, as had been done before, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-4">San Jose&acute; de Guadalupe was founded on November 29, 1777.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-5">All early houses were built of adobe, or blocks of sun-baked clay.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>The pueblo of San Jose&acute; has its mission, founded in 1797, which is situated fifteen miles north at the foot of a small chain of mountains called the Bolbones, which are nothing more than isolated spurs of the major Californian mountains.  During the few hours we remained at the pueblo of San Jose&acute; we secured some information and ascertained to our satisfaction that we might sell our game here as advantageously as at San Francisco.</P>
074.sgm:<P>In the morning we departed and went directly on toward the Californian mountains.  We had not traveled more than a day when Aluna detected the presence of bear by two infallible signs: first, by their tracks left on the sandy ground; then by the way in which the reeds, of which they are extremely fond and which grow on the banks of small streams, had been cut.  We pitched camp and waited for night to fall.  This was to be our apprenticeship in this new kind of hunt, into which Aluna initiated us during the night.  All three of us stood close together; Aluna held his lasso and carbine; Tillier and I had our double-barreled guns equipped with bayonets.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Two hours later a bear descended from the mountain and passed twenty paces away from us.  He was a black bear of small stature and did not weigh over 250 or 300 pounds.  Aluna threw his lasso which wrapped around him three or four times, then quickly tied the opposite end to the tree, took his carbine, ran toward the bear &amp;, while the creature was struggling in this strange trap, killed him with a ball through the ear.  This was a peculiar way of hunting bear that was characteristic of Aluna, but a way which, owing to our ignorance of how to handle a lasso, we could not employ.  Aluna having shown us how he captured him, then demonstrated how we were to make captures.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Our ro&circ;le was even more simple.  After our bear was killed, cleaned, and kept safely away from jackals by being hung from a limb, we then followed the track of a wolf and, exercising care to have the wind in our favor, searched for another post.  This was not difficult to find.  Aluna, stopping us at a point that seemed propitious, placed his lasso and his carbine in our hands &amp; took my double-barreled gun.  He then stood by to show me how I was to make my capture.</P>
074.sgm:<P>After waiting an hour down came a bear.  The brute stopped to drink not more than thirty paces away.  Aluna aimed at him saying, `With the way this bear is acting, I could kill him with a single shot; however, I shall merely wound him as you will see, to demonstrate what you should do.'  After this remark the attack started.  The bear, struck in the shoulder, gave a roar, looking around to see from where this injury had come.  Aluna now appeared and walked toward him.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The bear, seeing his adversary advance rather than retreat, took several steps forward to meet him and, having arrived five or six paces from Aluna, reared up on his hind legs, preparatory to smothering him.  Aluna seized this opportunity, aimed at his breast, and fired at close range.  The bear rolled over in a heap.  `This is how it is done,' Aluna called to us.  `If by chance you are forced to fire twice, or your gun sticks, you have your bayonet left.  At the first opportunity, I will show you how to use it, but this is enough for tonight.  Moreover, by now these bears must recognize the sound of guns; they have heard three of them, and will not come again.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>The following day our two bear were transported to the pueblo of San Jose&acute; and sold for 100 piasters each.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The following night we had our first real experience.  Luck was with me; the bear came within fifteen paces of us.  Tillier and I held ourselves in readiness to assist one another.  The bear stopped and, finding a clump of reeds that he relished, reared up on his hind legs, and with his front paws clutched the clump of reeds much as a reaper gathers a sheaf of wheat.  Then he began to eat, bending his head down to find the most tender stalks.  In this position his chest was exposed.  I fired.  The ball entered just below the shoulder.  The bear staggered and rolled into the brook.  Struggling desperately to rise, he was unable to climb up either one of the two steep ascents along the bank.  At the end of five minutes the death agonies began and he died uttering growls that, if tradition is to be believed, would have caused all the bears in the Californian mountains to congregate.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This terminated our apprenticeship.  We were now fullfledged hunters.  In the daytime when we were not too tired, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>On the same jaunt on which I took my deer I killed a magnificent white-and-blue snake.  Lying curled up in a clump of lupins, with his mouth open among the exquisite blue flowers that capped the bushes, he had apparently lured a gray squirrel that, fascinated by his magnetic eye, descended noisily from branch to branch.  I sent a ball through the head of the enormous reptile that hissed as he writhed.  The spell broken, the squirrel bounded instantly from the middle to the upper branches and from this tree over to a neighboring tree.  As for the serpent, not knowing whether or not he was poisonous I was careful enough to remain at a distance, but he was much too engrossed to pay any attention to me.  My shot had carried off all the upper part of his head just behind the eyes.  Aluna recognized him as belonging to the boa family, that is, to non-poisonous reptiles.  He was over nine feet long.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The destruction of this reptile &amp; a meeting with the Tachi Indians who had laid plans to carry off our wagon and our two horses were the only extraordinary episodes that occurred during the month passed in the Californian mountains.  Aluna strangled one of these Indians with his lasso; another was wounded by a shot from our gun.  The Indians, on the other hand, killed one of our horses with an arrow.  Fortunately this was the horse we had just bought, and not Aluna's animal.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The Indians' arrows are of reeds, tipped with feathers, and measure about a yard in length, six inches from their tip a smaller reed is inserted into the upper part; the result being that, when an attempt is made to extricate an arrow from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Toward the end of the month, the same situation developed that had occurred beyond San Francisco, that is, the country had either been stripped of all game, or the game had gone up or rather gone down toward the Tulare Valley; in other words, to a region too remote from San Francisco or even from the pueblo at San Jose&acute; for meat to arrive fresh.  And so our means of livelihood had failed us again and we were obliged to return to San Francisco.  However, I had nearly attained my cherished goal.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVIII: LIFE AS A WAITER</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>MY GOAL was to open up a small business of some kind in San Francisco.  The status of the gold-seeker would be lucrative if it could be carried on by companies, but our roving and capricious natures render difficult any kind of coo&die;peration.  Twenty or thirty may leave in a body, promise to remain together and devise the most elaborate plans.  But once at the placers each man forms his own opinion, holds stubbornly to it, goes off by himself, and the group disbands, frequently even before operations have been begun.  The result of all this is that, as in all human ventures, out of fifty miners who go to the placers, only five or six who are persevering by nature make fortunes; the others, less stable, become discouraged, change locations, or return to San Francisco.  Death, too, claims its toll.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Upon leaving for the mines--&amp; I have every right to give this advice to those who come after me, not having followed for my own part what I shall now advise--it is necessary to provide supplies, ammunition, and tools for the entire time to be spent there; to select some place and remain there permanently from the time this claim shows a yield; to construct a good shelter, &amp; so avoid being affected by the damp night and the cold mornings; to avoid working in the water during the heat of the sun, that is from eleven o'clock in the morning until three o'clock in the afternoon; and, finally, to be moderate with strong drink and to live on a regular schedule.  Whoever fails to follow these instructions will either accomplish nothing and so grow discouraged, or will fall ill and in all probability die.</P>
074.sgm:<P>There is still another thing of which I am fully convinced, namely that in addition to searching for gold there are ten, twenty, or even one hundred ways to make a fortune in San Francisco, for while the former method which at first glance appears fairly simple and easy yet is, on the contrary, one of the least reliable.</P>
074.sgm:<P>While in San Francisco I had occasion to observe that unquestionably the best speculation to make, among the small ventures that came to my attention, was to purchase wine in job lots from the ships that arrived and to sell this wine at retail.  Not knowing this business, however, I had to learn it.  As I have said, having once landed in San Francisco, the past is utterly ignored, and any social position held in the old world vanishes like so much mist, or, if it continues to adhere, merely tends to befog future prospects.</P>
074.sgm:<P>When I returned to San Francisco the first person I met <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>My education completed, since I had now saved up as my share while associated with Aluna, Tillier and Leon, something like 1000 piasters, which was sufficient to open a small business, I left Hotel Richelieu and started out to find a small office.  I found just what I was looking for at the corner of Pacific Street--a wooden shack, suitable for a wine-shop on the lower floor which, in addition to the one room, had an office for bookkeeping, and two sleeping chambers.</P>
074.sgm:<P>I rented these insignificant quarters for 400 piasters a month &amp; at once began work.  Obviously with a capital of only 1000 piasters and with a monthly rental of 400 piasters no time must be lost to prevent rent from eating up capital.  As I had anticipated, this proved to be an excellent speculation; the Americans ate and drank from morning until night, quitting work from time to time to have a little drink or a bite to eat.  Then came night--the best time of all--for the police force, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The gay gamblers' places were what turned night into day.  Now I was quite near La Polka and not far from El Dorado.  Among our patrons, as a result, were both ruined &amp; successful gamblers, two contrasting types, the type that weeps and the type that laughs.</P>
074.sgm:<P>What an opportunity to study the philosophy of daily life!  Men, arriving direct from the mines, would often lose 50,000 francs in gold-nuggets in a single evening, being then forced to turn their pockets inside out looking for enough gold-dust to buy a small drink.  If the dust was not there, they would beg a glass on credit, promising to pay on the next trip in from the mines.  Life inside of these gambling houses was hideous, the stakes were for gold bullion &amp; when the gambler had won, his stake was weighed in the scales.  Even necklaces, chains, watches were staked; their valuation was fixed at random and accepted at such valuation.</P>
074.sgm:<P>One night, upon hearing the cry `Murder!' we rushed out to find a Frenchman being assassinated by three Mexicans.  He had just been stabbed by knives in three places and his life was slowly ebbing from these three mortal wounds.  We carried him in this dying condition into the house, but he expired before this was reached.  His name was Lacour.  Of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Unfortunately, since the scaffolding needed to support the gallows, gallows that were to remain permanently in order to frighten assassins, had not yet been erected by carpenters, an artesian well, quite the reverse of gallows, was being dug, the idea being to lower the culprit into a hole in place of hoisting him up on the gallows.  But these were needed to supply water to the cisterns in the city; moreover, as has already been said, there was an acute shortage of water in San Francisco.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Lacking the European type of gibbet, the maritime type of gallows had to be used.  An American frigate offered to lend one of its yard-arms, an offer that had been gratefully accepted in San Francisco by the judicial authorities, since in place of a United States citizen being the victim, the culprit was a Mexican.  The execution was scheduled, so that all might enjoy it at their leisure, to take place at eleven o'clock in the morning.  By eight o'clock, Pacific Street, where the prison was located, was thronged with crowds.</P>
074.sgm:<P>At half-past ten appeared the policemen, readily recognizable by the white batons hanging from their button-holes by way of decoration.  They immediately entered the prison, whose door closed after them, taking to the condemned, through this brief opening, murmurs of impatience from twenty thousand spectators.  Finally the door reopened and the long anticipated victim appeared.  His hands were empty and his head bare; he wore split trousers, a short Mexican vest, and carried his poncho thrown over one shoulder.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The culprit was now taken down to the main wharf where a boat was lying in wait; into this he climbed with the policemen and executioners.  Twenty-five or thirty boats pushed off simultaneously from the docks, loaded with curious spectators who were unwilling to miss any part of the performance.  All along the main wharf and the entire beach crowds thronged.  I was among those who remained ashore, lacking courage to see more.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Having reached the frigate, the condemned man walked courageously aboard and there made final preparations to behung, even aiding the executioner to place the rope around his neck, adjusting it in a satisfactory manner around his throat.  This completed, over his head was thrown a great black veil that hid his face from the crowds.  At a given sig-four sailors pulled the rope jerking their victim off his feet, raising him to the end of the main yard-sail.  For an instant the body writhed convulsively, but was soon motionless.  The execution was now over.  The body was left exposed for part of the day to the public gaze, then at evening it was lowered, placed in a boat, &amp; removed to the cemetery at the presidio.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIX: DEMON FIRE AGAIN</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>DUE TO the shortage of water, an elaborate fire organization existed in San Francisco.  In the main square a fine artesian well was being dug which was designed to supply water to all cisterns in the city.  In anticipation of this water supply the firemen held daily practice without water; they could be seen running with their pumps, their American helmets, &amp; their blue trousers from one end of the city to the other, which invariably gave rise to the belief that fire had broken out in San Francisco.</P>
074.sgm:<P>During my relatively improvident youth, I was of the belief that the lack of a safe place in which to lock up my money was the sole cause of my prodigality.  Not knowing where to deposit it safely, I allowed it freely to slip into the pockets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>I found a splendid one built of iron that was so heavy that I could scarcely move it.  I was asked 150 piasters for it, but I finally secured it for 100 piasters--which was, I believe, a good bargain.  I was convinced that in case of fire a solid iron chest would be a melting-pot where I should find my gold and silver melted into bullion, but where I could ultimately recover it.  So I placed my chest at the foot of my counter and every night stored away my profits for the day.</P>
074.sgm:<P>These profits were quite satisfactory for after all expenses were paid they averaged 100 &amp; frequently 150 francs.  I had been able out of these profits to purchase at quite a favorable price five or six lots of wine and several casks of liquors and brandy from the captain of the <HI REND="italics">Mazagran</HI>
074.sgm:<P>This, as I have said, was a terrible cry, this cry of fire in San Francisco, which was built entirely of wood, especially when the city streets, in place of being left in their natural condition of dust, or mire were paved with wood and tended to spread fires by encouraging them.  Upon hearing this cry of fire, the one thought is how to escape death.  Despite this axiom of incontestible truth, I ran first for my trunk, turned the key, and threw it out of the window; I then put on my trousers, and started to escape down the stairs.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But it was now too late; there remained open only the route used by my trunk.  I had no time to delay, so I seized <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>The fire lasted two and one-half hours, burning 300 houses and all the bakery quarters.  By good luck my baker lived above Pacific Avenue; the fire did not reach him.  He offered me a refuge which I accepted.  This good man had the reputation of being a fair and just man; he was called Aristide.  There remained one last hope--my chest.  I waited in agony until the ashes were cold enough so that I might begin a search in which my friends Tillier, Mirandole, Gauthier, and my two boys joined.  One of us constantly guarded the ashes, so that no one would come in and do what we expected to do.  Finally after three days it was possible to begin to handle the ashes with a pick-axe.</P>
074.sgm:<P>I knew where the chest had been in the main room and so consequently knew where it ought to be in the cellar, since its weight led me to believe that it had fallen directly down.  But however much we dug, excavated, and explored, we did not find a trace of the chest.  I was convinced that my poor chest had been stolen.  Suddenly I found a kind of iron stalactite, scarcely as large as an egg, full of rough knobs and shimmering with the most beautiful tints of gold and silver.  My chest had melted like wax before a hot fire, &amp; this was all that remained of my strong-box!  Again the brass of Corinth had been found!</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>I could not believe my eyes when I saw that of a mass representing two cubic feet of surface, there remained a residue not larger than an egg!  I give you my word I could not understand how the solitary unique souvenir of a chest weighing sixty pounds, could be merely a gilded iron stalactite weighing only five or six ounces.  Such a thing seemed incredible.  Although an Englishman offered me 100 piasters for this bit of iron, which he wished to present to the Bureau of Mineralogy at London, I declined his offer.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Even so I desperately needed those 100 piasters.  Except for what was in my trunk, I had lost everything.  Fortunately, in my trunk were secreted a few gold nuggets I had collected during our expeditions to the placers and which I was saving to take back to France as gifts.  These nuggets I immediately converted into gold and silver coin.  By selling whatever was not strictly necessary, I scraped together 300 or 400 piasters.  This was enough to refinance some kind of a business; but I was weary of coping with bad luck.  An unkind fate seemed to have conspired to prevent me from passing a certain level.  Had I lost all my resources in France, I might have tried again &amp; had I had enough determination I might have won out against misfortune.</P>
074.sgm:<P>But back in France I had left my family &amp; some additional resources.  So I decided to give up my place to some of the numerous competitors who daily thronged hopefully to these gates, and since Captain Andy, master of the <HI REND="italics">Mazagran</HI>
074.sgm:<P>The deal was soon completed, my terms being easy.  What <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>On Sunday, October seventeenth, I went ashore for the last time.  Here several Frenchmen were expecting me at Hotel Richelieu for a farewell dinner.  Whether this was sadder or gayer than that at Havre would be difficult to say.  At Havre we were buoyant with hope; at San Francisco we were saddened by disappointment.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The following day, October eighteenth, we weighed anchor and that same evening under an excellent east wind that carried us along at eight or nine knots an hour, land dropped out of sight.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XX: CONCLUSION</HEAD>
074.sgm:<P>AND WHAT shall I say of this land that I was leaving almost as eagerly as I had once entered?  I shall tell the truth.  In so far as California has been known primarily for her remarkable climate, the fertility of her soil, the richness of her vegetation, the navigability of her rivers, California has been virtually unknown or rather erroneously known.  After the capture of San Juan de Ulloa, Mexico offered it to France who declined the offer.  After the capture of its capital it was transferred for $15,000,000 to the Americans, who purchased it merely to prevent it from passing over into the hands of England.  For a time California under this control remained as she was, that is, a region neglected by the entire world except for a few tenacious missionaries, some nomadic Indians, and a handful of venturesome emigrants.</P>
074.sgm:<P>How this resounding cry, the far-reaching cry of `Gold!' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Then finally some particles of this gold were exhibited, gold that had come from the American fork.  But Captain Folsom, to whom these were shown, merely shrugged his shoulders saying `That's mica!'  In the meantime, two or three messengers, accompanied by a dozen Indians, came in from Sutter's Fort.  They had come for implements suitable for washing sands.  With their pockets bulging with gold-dust they told marvellous tales of this discovery which was changing the Sacramento into a second Pactolus.</P>
074.sgm:<P>A few citizens now followed them back, intending to enter the employ of Mr. Sutter who was calling for workers.  But eight days later they were back again, searching for equipment for themselves &amp; giving out reports about these mines that were even more fabulous than those of the first-comers.  What resembled a kind of fever then seized the inhabitants of the settlements, the workmen at the ports, the sailors on board ship.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Here is what, on July twenty-ninth, was written by Mr. Colton, alcalde of Sonoma.  `The mining-fever has completely disrupted everything here, as it has everywhere; laborers &amp; harvesters can no longer be found; all the men in town have left for the Sierra Nevada.  Spades, pick-axes, sauce-pans, earthen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:porringers, bottles, phials, snuff-boxes, hoes, barrels &amp; even the stills have all been requisitioned &amp; have left the village with them.'<ANCHOR ID="n20-1">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm: Simultaneously Mr. Larkin, the American consul, observed that the exodus was reaching such proportions that he felt impelled to make Mr. Buchanan, Secretary of State, a report in which occurs this passage: `All the landlords, lawyers, store-keepers, mechanics, and laborers have started for the mines with their families; workmen earning from five to eight dollars a day have left the city.  The local newspaper has ceased to appear, lacking editors.  A large number of volunteers from the New York regiment have deserted.  A government vessel from the Sandwich Islands, actually at anchor, has lost its entire crew.  If this situation continues, the capital and all the other cities will be depopulated; whaling-vessels coming into the bay will be deserted by their crews.  What steps shall Colonel Mason take to retain his men?  This is a problem I cannot solve.'<ANCHOR ID="n20-2">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-1">Walter Colton was alcalde at Monterey, not Sonoma.  He subsequently joined the gold-rush.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-2">Prior to Colton's report, Thomas O. Larkin had sent in an official report dated June 1, 1848, to Washington.  The substance of this report appears in this quotation.  This report was published with the President's annual message of December 5, 1848, in <HI REND="italics">House Executive Documents</HI>
074.sgm:<P>Then, eight days later, Colonel Mason wrote in turn: `For severaldays now the situation has been so acute that I have expected the garrison at Monterey to desert in a body.  The temptation, I must admit, is great; there is little danger of being captured &amp; there is every expectation of an enormous compensation, double in one day what a soldier receives monthly in board &amp; salary.  To keep a servant is impossible; a workman, no matter what his profession, will not work for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:less than eighty francs a day and often demands as much as 100 or 110 francs.  What is to be done under such conditions?  The prices of ordinary commodities are moreover so high nad domestic labor so costly that only those who earn 500 or 600 francs daily can afford a servant.'<ANCHOR ID="n20-3">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-3">Colonel R. B. Mason's official letter was published in <HI REND="italics">House Executive Documents</HI>
074.sgm:<P>On the other hand, here is what our consul at Montery, Mr. Moerenhaut, reports: `Never in any country in the world has there been, I believe, such an upheaval.  The women and children are constantly being left alone on the most isolated farms, for even the Indians are taken away by their masters, or have left of their own accord to hunt gold; this emigration keeps increasing and is constantly gaining momentum.  The roads are thronged with men, horses, and wagons; but the cities and villages are deserted.'<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
074.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">Mr. Moerenhaut took up his official duties at Monterey on August 3, 1848.</NOTE>
074.sgm:<P>If you would like to have some idea of this exodus, follow the route of a lone brig that is bound for San Francisco, in command of a Peruvian, Captain Munraz.  He is coming up from Arica, having received his orders from San Francisco before gold was discovered.  He is coming, as is his custom, to complete his annual exchange of goods, and is ignorant of changed conditions.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Forced by contrary winds to put in at San Diego, he inquired for the latest news from California.  Here he was told what was taking place; how the city, which years ago numbered only about fifteen or twenty houses, now had from three to four hundred, and upon his arrival at the port he found a life and an activity equal to what Telemachus encountered upon touching at Salente.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Having heard this good news he departed with high hopes not only, thanks to this growing activity, over selling his cargo, but of securing new commissions and offers.  The weather was perfect.  Mt. Diablo, with the light striking it, fairly glistened and the brig directed its course direct to the anchorage at Yerba Buena.  But one thing seemed incomprehensible to Captain Munraz: he did not see a single ship at sea, nor a man moving along the shores.  What then had become of this activity of which he had heard, this growing city that had been making all the countryside resound with the pounding of hammers and the buzzing of sawas?  From all appearances this was like entering the domains of beauty asleep in the woods, except that even the sleepers were invisible.  Perhaps some fe&circ;te was taking place at the pueblo of San Jose&acute;.  Captain Munraz consulted his calendar.  Saturday, July eighth, no fe&circ;te that day!</P>
074.sgm:<P>Captain Munraz continued on ahead.  He believed that he must be dreaming.  Neither a war, a fire, nor an Indian uprising, however, was causing this silence, this profound solitude.  The city was still there; the houses were still intact; on the docks the astounded crew noted rows of tonnage piled high; along the wharves goods of all kinds were piled up at the doors of warehouses.</P>
074.sgm:<P>Captain Munraz now hailed several ships lying at anchor.  But these ships were as solitary, as silent as the docks and the warehouses.  Suddently the thought--the only one possible under the circumstances--came to Captain Munraz that the entire population of San Francisco had been recently wiped out by cholera, yellow fever, typhus, or some epidemic.  To go on would have been the height of imprudence.</P>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>So Captain Munraz gave orders to come about.  Then, as he was passing a small Mexican brig, he believed he saw something stirring aboard that resembled a human being.  He hailed this phantom.  An old Mexican sailor, his head enveloped in bandages, rose up from his kneees.  `Ship, ahoy!' called Captain Munraz, `what has become of the inhabitants of San Francisco?'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Oh!' replied the old Mexican, `they have all left for the land of gold!'</P>
074.sgm:<P>`And where is that?' laughingly asked Captain Munraz.</P>
074.sgm:<P>`Along the banks of the Sacramento are mountains and valleys where a man merely has to stoop down and gather up gold.  I am a sick man or I would go along to this land with the rest.'</P>
074.sgm:<P>Ten minutes later Captain Munraz's ship was empty.  The sailors had gone ashore, started toward the Sacramento, and the poor Captain left alone had to anchor and moor his ship as well as possible near the other empty vessels.</P>
074.sgm:<P>So at the cry of `Gold!' everyone rushed for the placers in the belief that the only way to make a fortune was to collect gold.  And each man worked at the diggings to the best of his ability aided by such tools as he was able to procure and sustained by such resources as he could command, some using pick-axes &amp; others spades, boat-hooks, or even fire-shovels.  Some, having no tools, dug down into the soil with their own fingers.  This earth was then washed with napkins, plates, sauce-pans, and straw hats.</P>
074.sgm:<P>From all directions swarmed men on horseback, families in wagons, poor devils on foot who had perhaps traveled steadily for 100 miles without a rest.  Each one, upon seeing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>As a matter of fact, instances of this were not lacking.  Mr. Neilly and Mr. Crowly, assisted by six men, had collected in six days 10 1/2 pounds of gold, valued at some 15,000 or 16,000 francs.  Mr. Vaca of New Mexico, with the aid of four men, took out 17 pounds of gold in one week.  Mr. Morris, aided only by one Indian, had, in a single claim in one ravine found 16,000 francs in gold-dust.</P>
074.sgm:<P>This type of vertigo kept constantly increasing.  Whoever left San Francisco left with the deliberate intention of becoming a miner, of searching, digging, and taking out with his own hands this precious metal.  Unfortunately, this of all kinds of speculation was the least certain, the most precarious and one that would be quickly exhausted.  The vast fortunes of San Francisco were not made at the mines.  The mines were merely the aim, the pretext.  Providence, casting her eye into the far future, had need to assemble a million men in a given corner of the hemisphere, so gold served for her excuse.  Later on she will supply them with industrial activities by way of compensation.</P>
074.sgm:<P>The future source of wealth in California will be agriculture and commerce; the search of gold, like all manual labor, will nourish man, and that is all.  That is why there is so much disillusionment in store for those who go out to San Francisco, so much discouragement among those who return.  San Francisco, and by San Francisco is meant all of New California, is just emerging from this reign of chaos and is on the point <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<BACK><DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<P>Aluna, 86, 87, 88, 92-95, 97-100, 102-119, 122-131, 133, 134, 137-139, 143-146, 150<LB>Alvarado, Juan B., 38 (also n.)<LB>American Camp, 66<LB>American Fork (river), xxix, 44, 133, 134, 160<LB>Bottin, 5, 14, 22, death of, 25-27<LB>Cabrillo, Juan Rodri&acute;guez, voyage of, 32, 33, also n.  <HI REND="italics">Cachalot</HI>
074.sgm:, 5, 6, 10, 54<LB>Cafe&acute;s Chantants, in San Francisco, 57<LB>California, vii, ix, x, xiii, xxii, xxiii, xxiv, xxix, xxx, 1, 2, n., 4, French Camp in, 31; origin of name, 32, also n.; during Mexican War, 34-38; 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, also n., 44, also n., 46, 51, population of, 53; 55, 56, 57, 59, 62, 65, 66, 73, 74, 76, 77, n., 79, n., 83, 89, 90, 91, 105, n., 106, 133, 134, 136, 137, 141, n. 142, n., 143, 159, 162, 165<LB>Californie (see also <HI REND="italics">Gil Blas</HI>
074.sgm: ), vii, viii, ix, x<LB>Cape Horn, xxviii, 2, n., 7, <HI REND="italics">Cachalot</HI>
074.sgm: at, 15, 18<LB>Castro, Jose&acute;, 38, also n., 40, 42<LB>Colton, Walter, 46, n., 160, 161, n.<LB>Corte&acute;s, Hernando, Discovers California, 31, 32<LB>Corteseal, Gaspar de, 32<LB>Drake, Sir Francis, 33<LB>Duflot de Mofras, 46, also n., 89<LB>Dumas, Alexandre, Editions of his <HI REND="italics">Gil Blas</HI>
074.sgm:, vii; life of, viii; ix, x, xxx, 46, n.<LB>Dupetit Thouars (Admiral), 1, 2, n., 20<LB>El Dorado (house), 49, 54<LB>Enghien, xiii, xiv, xv, xvii, xix, xx, xxii, xxiv, xxv<LB>Ferry, Hypolite, 34, also n.<LB>Folsom, Joseph L., 46, also n.<LB>Fort Montgomery, 30, n.<LB>Fort Williams, 30<LB>France, ix, 1, 2, n., dances of, 15; 21, 50, 53, 87, 89, 157, 158<LB>Fre&acute;mont, John C., 39, also n., 40, 41, 42<LB>French Camp, 31, 49, 51, 82<LB>Gambling, in San Francisco, 54-55; 151<LB>Gauthier, 3, 31, 84, 136, 150, 156<LB>Gil Blas, vii, xxiii, 53, also n.<LB>Gillespie, Archibald H., 41<LB>Gold Rush, vii, ix<LB>Havre, 4, departure from, 5; 8, 9, 19, 157<LB>Hennecart, 14, 15, 54<LB>Hotels (San Francisco), 57, 150<LB>Indians, 34, 39, also n., 41, 43, at Sutter's Fort, 44; 45, 46, 73, 109, 110, 112, 115, 119, 123, 124, 133, 135, 140, 141, 146, 159, 160, 162, 165<LB>Jamestown, 75, 79<LB>Kearny, Stephen W., 39, 40, 41, 42<LB>La Perouse, xxx, 44, n.<LB>Larkin, Thomas O., 41, also n., 161, also n.<LB>Loreto, 32<LB>Los Angeles, capture of in 1847, 42; 142<LB>Marshall, James W., 45, also n.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
074.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
074.sgm:<LB>Magellan (straits), xxviii<LB>Mason, Richard B., 46, also n., 161, 162, n.<LB>Mason, William S., Acknowledgment to, x<LB>Mexican War, 35-37<LB>Micheltorena, Manuel, 38, also n.<LB>Mirandole, 3, 6, 8, 20, 31, 85, 136, 156<LB>Moerenhaut, Jacob A., 46, also n., 162, also n.<LB>Mofras, See <HI REND="italics">Duflot</HI>
074.sgm:<LB>Monterey, 33, capture of, 35, also n.; 36, Sloat at, 38; 40, 41, also n., 46, also n., 90, 91, 109, 143, 161, also n., 162, also n.<LB>Montmorency, ix, xiii, xx, xxi, xxii, xxiv, xxv, 21<LB>Mormon Bar, 62, 75, 79<LB>Murphy's Camp, 75, 79, 133<LB>Nantes, 3, 4<LB>Pacific (ocean), xxviii, xxix, 5, <HI REND="italics">Cachalot</HI>
074.sgm: enters, 17; 31<LB>Panama (isthmus), xxviii, xxix, 24<LB>Paris, viii, ix, xiii, xiv, xxvii, xxix, Socie&acute;te&acute; Mutuellein, 2; 3, 53, 74, 150<LB>Pico, Andre&acute;s, 41<LB>Pico, Pio, Governor of California, 38, also n., 40<LB>Pindray, Charles de, 86, also n.<LB>Pine Pass, 63, also n., 64, 74, 75, 87, 133<LB>Rocky Mountains, xxviii, xxix, Kearny crosses, 40; 41, 43, 123, 124<LB>Sacramento (river), vii, xiii, xxix, 6, 22, 44, 45, 51, 59, 60, 87, 133, 134, 135, 160, 164<LB>San Francisco, ix, xxiii, xxix, Hennecartion., 14; 40, 41, 46, 47, 48, 49, n., 50, 51, 53, 55, 56, 59, 60, 61, 62, 75, 80, 81, 83, fires in, 84-86, also n.; 87, 89, 90, 99, 106, 132, 136, 139, 143, 147, 148, 149, 152, 154, 155, 156, 157, 158, 162, 163, 164, 165<LB>San Joaqui&acute;n (river), vii, xiii, xxix, 6, 22, 51, 59, 60, 61, 80, 133, 135<LB>San Jose&acute; (city), 142, also n., 143, 145, 147, 163<LB>San Jose&acute; (mission), 90<LB>San Pasqual, battle of, 41<LB>Sloat, John, 35, 38, 40<LB>Sonoma, Bear Flag raised at, 40; 87, 88, 89, 105, 106, 133, 136, 146, 160, 161, n.<LB>Sonora (camp), 61, 63, 68, 75, 79, n., 80, 133<LB>Stanislaus (river), 62, 68<LB>Stockton (city), 59, 60, 61, 62, 80<LB>Stockton, Robert F., 40, 42<LB>Sutter, John Augustus, xxix, 43, also n., 44, 45, gold discovery of, 46; 160<LB>Sutter's Fort (Sacramento), 44, 45, n., 89, 134, 160<LB>Talma, xvii, xviii, xix, xxi<LB>Tillier, 3, 49, 51-53, 58, 59, 60, 62, 70, 71, 76, 77, 81, 86, 87, 88, 92, 94, 95, 97, 99, 100, 101, 105-108, 133, 136, 137, 143, 145, 150, 156<LB>Vallejo, Mariano, 38, also n.<LB>Valparaiso, 17, 18, 19, life of, (3) 20-23; 29, 51, 54<LB>Vizcai&acute;no, Sebastian, 33, also n., 34<LB>Wagner, Henry R., acknowledgment to, x</P>
075.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-075</TITLE>
075.sgm:<TITLE>The land of gold; reality versus fiction.  By Hinton R. Helper: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
075.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
075.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
075.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
075.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
075.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
075.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
075.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 00-794</LCCN>
075.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
075.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
075.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>THE</P>
075.sgm:<P>LAND OF GOLD.</P>
075.sgm:<P>REALITY VERSUS FICTION.</P>
075.sgm:<P>BY</P>
075.sgm:<P>HINTON R. HELPER.</P>
075.sgm:<P>BALTIMORE:</P>
075.sgm:<P>PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR,</P>
075.sgm:<P>BY HENRY TAYLOR, SUN IRON BUILDING.</P>
075.sgm:<P>1855.</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, by<LB>HINTON R. HELPER,<LB>In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the<LB>District of Maryland.</P>
075.sgm:<P>SHERWOOD &amp; CO., PRINTERS,<LB>BALTIMORE.</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>TO THE<LB>HON. JOHN M. MOREHEAD,<LB>OF NORTH CAROLINA,<LB>These Pages are respectfully Dedicated,<LB>BY HIS<LB>SINCERE FRIEND AND ADMIRER,<LB>THE AUTHOR.</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>PREVIOUS to my departure for California, near and dear friends extracted from me a promise to communicate by letter, upon every convenient occasion, such intelligence as would give them a distinct idea of the truthfulness or falsehood of the many glowing descriptions and reputed vast wealth of California.  In accordance with this promise, I collected, from the best and most reliable sources, all that I deemed worthy of record touching the past of the modern El Dorado, relying upon my own powers of observation to depicture its present condition and its future prospects.</P>
075.sgm:<P>This correspondence was never intended for the public eye, for the simple reason that the matter therein is set forth in a very plain manner, with more regard to truth than elegance of diction.  Indeed, how could it be otherwise?  I have only described those things which came immediately under my own observation, and, beside this, I make no pretensions to extensive scholastic attainments, nor do I claim to be an adept in the art of book-making.</P>
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075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>A weary and rather unprofitable sojourn of three years in various parts of California, afforded me ample time and opportunity to become <HI REND="italics">too</HI>
075.sgm:<P>In order to present a more complete picture of California, I have added two chapters, that describing the route through Nicaragua, and the general <HI REND="italics">resume</HI>
075.sgm:<P>H. R. H.</P>
075.sgm:<P>SALISBURY, North Carolina, 1855.</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>CALIFORNIA UNVEILED.<LB>Introductory Remarks--Erroneous opinions respecting California--Sterility of the Soil--The Seasons--Destitution of Mechanical and Manufacturing Resources--Dependence upon Importations for the Conveniences and Necessaries of Life--No Inducement to become Permanent Residents of the country<HSEP>13<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>THE BALANCE SHEET.<LB>California statistically considered--Cost of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo--Price of Passage and Services of Immigrants--Total Yield of the Mines--Amount of Property destroyed by Fires, Freshets and Inundations--List of Sailing Vessels and Steamers Wrecked upon the coast--Public Debt of the State--Debts of San Francisco, Sacramento and Marysville--Loss of Life by violent measures--Extract from the Louisville Journal<HSEP>23<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>SOCIETY IN CALIFORNIA.<LB>Extraordinary Depravity and Corruption--Reasons assigned for the laxity of Morals--Much of the Degeneracy and Dissipation attributable to the absence of female society--The Case of an English gentleman--His Story--General Remarks concerning the different classes of Women<HSEP>36 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>SAN FRANCISCO.<LB>Importance of San Francisco--The Golden Gate--The Harbor--Long Wharf--A Motley Crowd--The Shipping--Names of Vessels--Vagrant Boys--Commercial Street--Wooden Tenements--The Jews--Fire-proof brick and stone structures--Montgomery street--Menial Employments--Professional Men washing dishes, waiting upon the table, and peddling shrimps and tomcods--Lawyers and Land Titles--Grog Shops and Tippling Houses--Bill of Fare of a California Groggery<HSEP>45<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>SAN FRANCISCO--CONTINUED.<LB>Clay street--Gazing in Ladies' Faces--The Gambling Houses--Heterogeneous Assemblage of Blacklegs--The Plaza--The City Hall--A Case of Bribery and Corruption--French Restaurants--Flour and other Provisions--Frauds and Adulterations<HSEP>69<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>SAN FRANCISCO--CONCLUDED.<LB>A Pistol Gallery--Doctor Natchez--Population of the City--Filling in the Bay--Lack of Vegetation--Yearning for the society of Trees<HSEP>81<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>THE CHINESE IN CALIFORNIA.<LB>National habits and traits of Chinese Character--Their Dress--The number of Chinese in California--How they employ their time--Their arrogance and presumption--Manner of Eating--Singularity of their names--Is the Chinese Immigration desirable?<HSEP>86 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>CURSORY VIEWS.<LB>The Pacific Side of the Continent much Inferior to the Atlantic Side--Poverty and Suffering in California--Rash and mistaken ideas of the country--A few very Fertile Valleys--Value of the Precious Metals to the country in which they are found--The Climate<HSEP>97<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>SUNDAY IN CALIFORNIA.<LB>Manner of Spending the Sabbath--Mixture and Dissimilarity of the Population--Dance Houses--Mexican Women--Influence of Female Society upon the Community--Churches in San Francisco<HSEP>109<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>BEAR AND BULL FIGHT.<LB>Advertisement announcing the Sport--Mission Dolores--An old Catholic Church--Preparation for the Fight--The Audience--The Attack--Progress of the Conflict--The Finale<HSEP>116<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>SACRAMENTO.<LB>City and Valley of Sacramento--The Legislature--Shabby Hotels--Teamsters and Muleteers--Excess of Merchants--Continual Depression in Business--Perfidy and Dishonesty of Consignees--California Conflagrations--The Three Cent Philosopher<HSEP>131 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>YUBA--THE MINER'S TENT.<LB>Trip to the Mines--Modus Operandi of Single-handed Mining--Names of Bars--Mining Laws--More Gentility and Nobleness of Soul among the Miners than any other Class of People in California--The case of a Highwayman--Description of a Miner's Tent--His Diet and Cooking Utensils--Toilsomeness of Mining--Proceeds of three months' labor<HSEP>147<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>STOCKTON AND SONORA.<LB>Situation of Stockton--The San Joaquin Valley--Trip to Sonora--The best Hotel in the Place--A Lunatic--A Gambling Prodigy--Shooting Affair--A case of Lynch Law--Description of Sonora--Land Speculators--Ephemeral Cities--Excitability of the Californians--The Beard--A good old Man--His Story<HSEP>161<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA VIA CAPE HORN.<LB>Embarkation from New York--A Terrible Storm--Loss of Masts and narrow escape from Shipwreck--Wreck of a Swedish Brig--An unfortunate Little Bird--Patagonia and Cape Horn--Stoppage at Valparaiso--Earthquakes--Appearance of the City--A Delectable Garden--Two Catholic Priests--Beauty of Ocean Scenery in the Pacific--The St. Felix Islands--Arrival in San Francisco<HSEP>187<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>VOYAGE FROM CALIFORNIA VIA NICARAGUA.<LB>Departure from San Francisco--Matters and Things aboard the Steamer--The Passengers--A Hoax--Arrival at San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:Juan del Sur--Novel Mode of Debarkation--Ludicrous Scenes--Trip across the Country--The Weather--Virgin Bay--Lake Nicaragua--The San Juan River--Bad Management and shabby Treatment on the Isthmus--Negro Slavery and Central America--San Juan del Norte, alias Greytown<HSEP>209<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>MY LAST MINING ADVENTURE.<LB>Projected Voyage to Australia abandoned--Trip to the Mines in Tuolumne county--My quaint Friend and Companion, Mr. Shad Back--Operations in Columbia--The Result<HSEP>225<LB>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE.<LB>Disordered State of Society--Atrocious and barefaced Crimes--Organization of Vigilance Committees--Salutary effect of their Proceedings--Defence of their Motives and Actions--A case of Lynch Law in Sacramento<HSEP>237<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>BODEGA.<LB>Trip to Bodega on a Mischievous and Refractory Mule--A Chinese Encampment--Description of the country in the vicinity of Bodega--The Village of Petaluma--Cruel Treatment of an Indian Boy--Serious Consequences result from the villainous Pranks of his Muleship--Ben, an eccentric old Negro<HSEP>254<LB>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>THE DIGGER INDIANS AND NEGROES.<LB>Indolence and Insignificance of the Digger Indians--What they eat--Means of obtaining the Necessaries of Life--Their Habits and Peculiarities--An Incident at a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:slaughterhouse--The Negroes in California--The case of a New Orleans Sea-captain and his Slave Joe--A North Carolinian and his two Negroes<HSEP>268<LB>CHAPTER XX.<LB>ARE YOU GOING TO CALIFORNIA?<LB>Resume of the preceding chapters--Arguments in favor of the Atlantic and Pacific Railway--Advantages of the Southern Route--Abstract of the Report of the Secretary of War on the several Pacific Railroad Explorations--Extracts from Letters--Conclusion<HSEP>280</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.<LB>CALIFORNIA UNVEILED.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>AN intelligent and patriotic curiosity will find the history of few countries more interesting than that of California--which has at length realized those dreams of El Dorado that beguiled so many an early adventurer from the comforts and bliss of his fireside, to delude and destroy him.  The marshes of the Orinoco, the Keys of Florida, and the hills of Mexico cover the bones of many of these original speculators in the minerals of the Western World.  They sought wealth, and found graves.  How many of the modern devotees of Mammon have done better in our newly opened land of gold?</P>
075.sgm:<P>To explain the causes of the frequent disappointment of these cherished hopes; to determine the true value of this modern El Dorado; to exhibit the prominent features of California and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>The less to weary the reader, the book has been broken up into chapters, in which the author proposes to discourse familiarly upon what he has seen and felt, as he would in a friendly letter, rather than to write a formal essay or treatise upon California.  In pursuing this plan, it is his intention to confine himself exclusively to facts, and to desribe those facts as clearly as possible, so as to leave no ground for a conjectural filling up of those outlines which his negligence may have left vague and indistinct.</P>
075.sgm:<P>In this country, where almost every event that occurs is as momentous and unaccountable as the wonderful exploits of Habib's and Aladdin's genii, to deal with any thing aside from actual matters of fact, is at once as silly and profitless a business as that of whistling against the winds.  Yet, in nine-tenths of the descriptions of life and times in California, truth and facts have been set aside, and the writers, instead of confining themselves to a faithful delineation of that which actually exists, have made astonishing and unwarranted drafts upon their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:imaginations.  Instead of detailing facts, they have written fictions; instead of making a true record, they have interwoven falsehoods with the very web of their story.  They have chronicled dreams instead of realities, and have registered vagaries as actual events and undeniable certainties.  But they have themselves been deceived.  They have been duped in listening to the delusive whispers of mischievous sirens, whose flattering suggestions and plausible stories have had such a magical influence upon their excited minds, that they have become accustomed to consider every thought of wealth that occurs to them a veritable mountain of gold;--that is to say, they have, by some strange hallucination, been converted to the belief that whatever California ought to be for their own particular ends and interests, it really is.  In the night-time they have arranged and matured prodigious plans of profit, and although many days have dawned upon them since, that time has yet to come which shall reveal to them the utter nothingness of their nocturnal reveries.  But the day will come, and it is fast approaching, when the spell must be broken.  The iron utensils, which have been transmuted into golden urns and palaces night after night, shall once and for ever resume their true quality at the approach of day.  The spell-bound shall be freed!  The reverie shall be dissipated, the false wealth analyzed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The truth is, California has been much overrated and much overdone.  She has been pressed beyond her limits and capacities.  Her managers have been rash, prodigal and incompetent, and they have embarrassed her beyond hope of relief--though, it must be acknowledged, her condition was never very hopeful, but, on the contrary, I may say with the poet, she was only "half made up."  It is plain to be seen that she was never finished.  She has never paid for herself.  An overwhelming public debt now rests upon her shoulders, and she has nothing to show for it.  She is bankrupt.  Her resources are being rapidly exhausted, and there is but lank promise in the future.  Her spacious harbors and geographical position are her true wealth; her gold fields and arid hills are her poverty.  But <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>A residence of nearly three years, during which time I have traveled over a wide extent of those parts of the State which are most highly esteemed for agriculture and minerals, has, I claim, enabled me to arrive at a pretty accurate estimate of her character and capacities; and I have no hesitation in avowing it as my candid opinion (and I have not been a very inattentive observer) that, balancing resource against defect, and comparing territory with territory, California is the poorest State in the Union.  She has little to recommend her except her fascinating metal, the acquisition of which, however, in its first or natural state, seems always to require a greater sacrifice of moral and physical wealth than a single exchange of it afterwards can possibly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>No rain falls between the first of April and the middle of November, in consequence of which the earth becomes so dry and hard that nothing will grow; and the small amount of grass, weeds, or other vegetation that may have shot up in the spring, is parched by the scorching sun until it is rendered as easy of ignition as prepared fuel.  The valleys above mentioned are the only spots exempt from this curse.  On the other hand, from the first of December to the last of March it rains, as a general thing, so copiously and incessantly, that all out-door avocations must be suspended; and as there is no mechanical or in-door labor, either of use or profit, to be performed, the people <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>If we inquire after the manufacturing and mechanical resources of the State, we will find that she has none whatever; in this respect she is as destitute as the aboriginal settlements of America.  Nor can she establish, encourage or maintain these arts, for the reason that she would be under the necessity of importing, not only the machinery and raw materials, but also the fuel.  She could not, therefore, compete with neighboring States, which have at least some of these indispensable requisites.  Nor has she any advantages or facilities for either water or steam power.  How, then, can she obtain a reputation for manufactures and mechanism, having neither the material to work, nor the force or means to work with?  She has neither cotton nor flax, coal nor timber.  She is rich in nothing, and poor in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>But this profuse exportation of gold is significant of another important fact, while at the same time it demonstrates what I have said above.  It shows conclusively that there is no inducement to invest capital permanently in this country, either in the prosecution of business or in the establishment of homes or residences.  Immigrants find neither beauty nor gain to hold them here; and I feel warranted in venturing the assertion that not more than ten per cent of the population are satisfied to remain.  Of the other ninety per cent., the bodies only subsist here--their hearts abide in better climes; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>But the women are almost unanimous in their determination not to make California any thing more than a temporary residence; and they have good reasons for this resolution.  Besides the social depravity to which I shall presently allude, and which is sufficient to shock the sensibilities of any <HI REND="italics">man</HI>
075.sgm: of ordinary morality, there are hosts of minor annoyances, resulting from the climate and the geographical position of the country, that inflict peculiar pain upon female sensibilities.  The mud, which is often knee-deep, keeps them imprisoned all the winter; while, in summer, the dust, as fine as flour and as abundant as earth itself, stifles the inhabitants, fills the houses, penetrates into every nook and corner, finds its way even into the inner drawers and chests, soils the wardrobe, spoils the furniture, and sullies every thing.  Besides, California is especially infested with vermin.  Fleas, ants, and all sorts of creeping things are as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>We have alluded to the winds, because they really are a peculiar feature in the meterology of this State.  In the summer time they blow with peculiar violence, and facilitate the spread of the great fires from which California has suffered so much.</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>THE BALANCE-SHEET.</P>
075.sgm:<P>LET us now take a glance at the <HI REND="italics">pros</HI>
075.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">cons</HI>
075.sgm:<P>Without charging California with any of the enormous expenses of the Mexican war, or the check given to the increase of population which that war occasioned, we will simply make her debtor for the amount of purchase-money that was paid for her, and for the various sums it has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>In the first place, then, California is debtor to the United States for her quota of the amount of purchase-money paid to Mexico for herself and for New Mexico, including contingent fund absorbed by Mexican claimants, as per agreement at the treaty of Guadaloupe Hidalgo, $10,000,000.  In the next place, let us see how much she is indebted to the United States for labor.  At the present time, her population is estimated at about two hundred and fifty thousand.  It is but little greater now than it was in 1849.  In '51 and '52 it was larger than it was or has been at any preceding or subsequent period.  It would probably be fair to estimate the average population at two hundred and fifty thousand for the last six years; of this number, it is supposed that from thirty to thirty-five thousand are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Thus we see California is debtor to the United States three hundred and forty-three millions two hundred and thirty thousand dollars.  Now let us examine the account which California brings as an offset to this amount.  The entire yield of the mines up to the present time, January, 1855, has been about two hundred and forty-five millions of dollars.  And this is all.  We cannot credit her with any thing else that would not be equipoised or balanced by the capital, whether owned or borrowed, brought hither from various parts of the world, and invested in business and improvements, and about which nothing has been said in the bill of charges.  Here, then, is the sum and substance of the whole matter.</P>
075.sgm:<P>And now let us see how much money has been lost in and about California by casualties, accidents and mismanagement.  The reader shall judge whether any part of the amount should be charged to the State.  As for us, we shall simply feel it our duty to furnish the statistics.  In regard to the expenses of Fremont's Battalion, of the Army of Occupation in '47 and '48, and of the wars since waged against the Indians--amounting in all to several millions of dollars, we will say nothing.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>In the annexed table is an account of the various fires that have occurred throughout the State.  It will be perceived that the date of occurrence and amount of property destroyed are both given.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>The following sailing vessels and steamers have been wrecked upon the coast within the same period:</P>
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075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>These figures show the amount of property that has been destoryed, or the amount of losses that have been sustained in California, by accidents, mishaps and mismanagement, within the last six years.  I will, moreover, give a list of lives lost by violent measures during the same period:</P>
075.sgm:<P>It may be urged that the State ought not to be held accountable for any number of these sixteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>But I deem it unnecessary to dwell on this part of my subject.  In presenting the foregoing calculations, it has been my aim to show that California is a country of unparalleled casualties and catastrophes, and to direct attention to the immense losses which have been sustained in opening its mines of wealth.  A large number of people, it seems, have got into the habit of estimating the gains without taking into consideration the cost or losses at all; and there are those, no doubt, who will attempt to find fault with the account which I have drawn up between California and the United States.  Though that account is in the main correct, I admit that slight errors may here and there exist; for, as I remarked at the outset, the debits and credits are so numerous, and of such an intricate nature, that it would be impossible to arrive at the exact amounts without the greatest research and elaboration.  If I have succeeded in undeceiving those who have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>For the benefit of the reader, and in confirmation of statements made in this chapter relative to the past and present of California, I give the following extract from the <HI REND="italics">Louisville Journal</HI>
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075.sgm:<P>COST OF CALIFORNIA GOLD.</P>
075.sgm:<P>"For the information of those persons who believe that the United States thus far have been benefited by the discovery of gold in California, we propose to submit a few remarks and calculations.</P>
075.sgm:<P>"After the close of the Mexican war and the cession by treaty to us of Upper California, the world was astonished by the announcement, toward the close of 1848 or the beginning of 1849, that immense deposits of gold had been discovered in that country.  As soon as the truth of this report was established, vast numbers of persons, young and old, flocked to that country.  There was a perfect stampede of people from every State in the Union.  Property was sacrificed to raise money with which to reach this Eldorado, where fortunes for all were supposed to be awaiting the mere effort to gather them.  The first injurious effect on the country was the sudden withdrawal of so much labor from the channels of production; it was mainly, too, that description most needed here--that is, agricultural labor.</P>
075.sgm:<P>"We are not in possession of the statistics requisite to determine with exactness the number of persons who have been taken from the old States and have gone to California.  The population of that State now exceeds two hundred thousand.  But as there is a constant stream of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:people always <HI REND="italics">in transitu</HI>
075.sgm:<P>"Now, if we estimate the average value of this labor at $25 per month each, or $300 per year, we have ($270,000,000) two hundred and seventy millions of dollars as the value of the labor taken from the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains and placed on its western side.  In addition to this, it cost on an average $200 per head as the expenses of the removal from one country to the other.  This makes ($180,000,000) one hundred and eighty millions of dollars as the cost of removal.  The sums together make the sum total of ($450,000,000) four hundred and fifty millions of dollars drained from the eastern side of the United States.  To ascertain the amount of the gold obtained from that country, we propose to take the gold coinage of the mint.  This coinage was in--</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>"As these figures make the sum total of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
075.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">This shows that there is a balance due us in lost labor and capital of over one hundred and eighty millions of dollars</HI>
075.sgm:<P>"So far as California is concerned, it is probable that this deficiency is replaced there by the value of property, real and personal, which the labor taken from this region of country has produced there.</P>
075.sgm:<P>"The injurious effect of this vast emigration has been felt in the undue stimulus it has given to the prices of produce, induced by diminished production and increased demand.</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>"Another bad effect of this gold crop has been the influence it has exerted in stimulating excessive importations of foreign goods.  In the last six years the imports will exceed the exports three hundred and three millions of dollars.  Commencing in 1849 with an import trade of only seven millions of nominal balance against this country, it rapidly increased, until, in each of the past two years, it has exceeded sixty millions of dollars."</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>SOCIETY IN CALIFORNIA.</P>
075.sgm:<P>HAVING looked into the financial condition of California, let us now briefly consider the moral and religious state of its society.  We know that we are undertaking an ungrateful and painful task--that we shall awaken the animosity of those who have an interest in enticing settlers to this golden region--that we shall provoke contradiction, and probably excite controversy; but we beseech Heaven to pardon us for speaking the truth, and challenge our antagonists to disprove our statements.</P>
075.sgm:<P>We cannot, indeed, pretend to disclose all the terrible iniquity of that society in the compass of a single chapter--the theme is too extensive, the facts too revolting.  It requires space to unfold the scroll which records such damning facts--it needs time for the mind to become sufficiently reconciled to the hideous details, to be able to listen to them without impatience or disgust.  We can, at present, do no more than open the way for a fuller exposition of the subject in subsequent chapters.  Suffice it to say that we know of no country in which there is so much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>How much of this is attributable to the metal which attracts the population, we leave others to determine.  One thing, however, is certain; mining districts do not generally enjoy a very enviable reputation in any part of the world.  Gold, especially, is thought to be so easily accessible, and the return of the miner's labor is so immediately visible, that it has ever attracted the most unthrifty and dissolute.  Men who could not be induced to work at any thing else, will spend days and weeks delving for the precious bane, hoping against hope, and laboring with an eager energy which nothing else can excite, and almost any thing else would more surely reward.  Hence, the immediate neighborhood of a gold-mine is too liable to be a sink for all the idleness and depravity of the surrounding country.  How these evils are multiplied by the absence of individual proprietorship in the land, and by the remoteness of a mining district from the beneficial restraints of public opinion, any one who gives a moment's consideration to the subject will perceive.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The exclusive devotion of labor to this one pursuit is another cause of increased laxity of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>We must not, however, commit the mistake of supposing that all the depravity of California is attributable to the nature of its industrial pursuits.  This is but one of the elements which assist in producing the deplorable state of affairs under consideration.  There are others which spring from the character of the people, and the circumstances which have brought them together.</P>
075.sgm:<P>It must be borne in mind that all the adventurers to this country have come for the express purpose of making money, and that to this end every other consideration is sacrificed.  They have come to "put money in their purses," and as a large majority of them are of a class who are rarely troubled by any qualms of conscience, they are determined to do it at all hazards.  Mammon is their god, and they will worship him.</P>
075.sgm:<P>If it be deemed desirable to make further <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Another very important cause of this wild excitement, degeneracy, dissipation, and deplorable condition of affairs, may be found in the disproportion of the sexes--in the scarcity of women.  At present, there is only about one woman to every ten or twelve men, and the result is what might be expected.  The women are persecuted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Not long since, an English gentleman, of whom myself and others had purchased some real estate in this city, came to me, requesting that, inasmuch as his wife had left him the day before, we would not let her have any money on his account.  After finishing his business instructions, he gave us the following history.  Listen to it.  Said he: "Four years ago, myself and wife, and six other men with their wives, came together in one vessel to this country.  Shortly after our arrival, family feuds and jealousies became rife in the domestic circle of one of the parties.  The man and his wife separated.  Soon their example was followed by another couple, and another, and so on, until all the marriage ties of our company were broken, except those that happily existed between myself and wife.  Left alone thus, and having been true to each other so long, and through so many opposing circumstances, I cherished the hope <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>The total disregard of the marriage tie by the majority of the men of California puts the husband, who is foolish enough to take his wife with him to that country, in a painful and embarrassing position.  Should the wife be pretty, she is the more liable to the persecution of attentions which will shock her if she be virtuous, and flatter her into sin if she is not.  She is surrounded at once by hosts of men, who spare neither money, time, nor art to win her affections from her husband.  What wonder if they often succeed?</P>
075.sgm:<P>Female virtue or chastity, in the conventional sense of the word, is known to every one, who is familiar with the internal history of society, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>As for the first class, it is not necessary to speak of them.  They fulfil their shameful destiny every where, and California only ripens their depravity a little earlier.  It is the second class who suffer chiefly from the peculiar moral atmosphere of the land of gold.  In the Atlantic States, hedged in by a healthy public opinion, guarded by jealous laws, flattered into chastity by the respectful attentions which that virtue ever commands, they might retain to their dying day that physical purity which satisfies the great majority of husbands.  In California, however, these restraints are all removed.  Public opinion arrays itself on the side of vice; the laws are powerless to punish the sins of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>The third class--of whom, I regret to say, I have met with but few in the Eureka State--have also peculiar trials to undergo.  Society in that country is a reproduction, on a large scale, of the morals of the courts of Charles II of England and Louis XV of France.  Vice only is esteemed and lauded, virtue is treated as an idle dream, an insulting pretence of superiority, or a supid folly beneath the notice of men of sense.  People do not believe in it--they scorn it, they insult it; they consider it a mere avaricious attempt to dispose of venal charms above their market value, so that the chaste woman has not only to suffer the persecution of insulting proposals, but the doubt of that virtue which repels her pursuers, and the sneers and scandal of a depraved and debased community.</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Many women, of conceded respectability in California, seem to have come out there for the exclusive purpose of selling their charms to the highest bidder.  Others, of more honest hearts, have fallen victims to the peculiar seductions of the place, but I must be allowed to pay a tribute to the sex, even in this its degenerate condition.  Paradoxical as the statement may sound, it is rigorously true that these very women have improved the morals of the community.  Any one who, like myself, has had the opportunity of seeing California before and after the advent of these women, must have been struck with the decided improvement in society since their arrival.  They have undoubtedly banished much barbarism, softened many hard hearts, and given a gentleness to the men which they did not possess before.  What, then, might we not expect from an influx of the chaste wives and tender mothers that bless our other seaboard?</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO</P>
075.sgm:<P>WE will now pay our respects to the occidental metropolis of the United States, sometimes honored with the title of the Queen City of the Pacific.</P>
075.sgm:<P>It has not been more truthfully remarked that Paris is France, than that San Francisco is California.  This is the grand mart in which all the travel, news, capital, business, and, in fact, every species of interest or employment that belongs to the State is concentrated--the nucleus around which every plan and project must first be developed before it can receive life, vigor, system and order.  It is the fountain-head of all the tributaries of trade and traffic that flow through the State--the great trestle-board or chart of operations to which all the journeymen repair for designs and instructions to pursue their labors.  It is the supreme tribunal and regulator of affairs--the heart, the life, and the stay of the State.  Contrary to the general rule, in this case the city supports the country, instead of the country nurturing and sustaining the city; and this will continue to be the case so long as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>In order to particularize a little, and to furnish the reader with a more systematic idea of the city, we will imagine ourselves in a vessel, some distance at sea, approaching the coast of California in about the lat. of 37&deg; 45' N. and lon. 122&deg; 25' W.  This will bring us to the Golden Gate, the entrance to the harbor.  This entrance is a narrow outlet, through which at least seven-eighths of the entire waters of the State find their way into the Pacific ocean.  It can be so thoroughly fortified that no maritime expedition could ever force its way through it.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Passing through the Gate, we enter the bay, and find it to be one of the largest and finest in the world, dotted with several small islands, and abounding in excellent fish of every variety.  Soon we arrive at Long Wharf; the steamer is run alongside, and we are in the Eldorado of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>By the sides of the wharves, and anchored in different parts of the commodious and noble bay, we see magnificent ships, barks and brigs from every nation of commercial note.  But of all these majestic palaces of the deep, none are equal in beauty of design and finish, in grace, symmetry and elegance, or in excellence of quality, to our own American clippers.  Thinking that it might be of interest to some of my readers, as a specimen of American marine or naval nomenclature, I have taken the pains to collect a majority of the names of these oaken chariots of old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Antelope,<HSEP>Flying Eagle,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Archer,<HSEP>Flying Fish,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Atalanta,<HSEP>Game Cock</P>
075.sgm:<P>Aurora,<HSEP>Gazelle,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Bald Eagle,<HSEP>Gem of the Ocean,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Belle of Baltimore,<HSEP>Golden Age,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Celestial,<HSEP>Golden City,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Challenge,<HSEP>Golden Eagle,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Champion,<HSEP>Golden Fleece,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Climax,<HSEP>Golden Gate,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Comet,<HSEP>Golden Light,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Contest,<HSEP>Golden Racer,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Courser,<HSEP>Golden Rule,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Dancing Feather,<HSEP>Golden State,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Dashing Wave,<HSEP>Golden West,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Dauntless,<HSEP>Gray Eagle,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Defiance,<HSEP>Gray Feather,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Don Quixotte,<HSEP>Gray Hound,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Eclipse,<HSEP>Herald of the Morning,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Empress of the Seas,<HSEP>Highflyer,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Eureka,<HSEP>Hornet,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Fearless,<HSEP>Honqua,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Flying Arrow,<HSEP>Hurricane,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Flying Childers,<HSEP>Ino,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Flying Cloud,<HSEP>Invincible,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Flying Dragon,<HSEP>John Gilpin,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Flying Dutchman,<HSEP>King Fisher,</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Mystery,<HSEP>Sirocco,</P>
075.sgm:<P>National Eagle,<HSEP>Skylark,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Neptune's Car,<HSEP>Snowsquall,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Northern Crown,<HSEP>Southern Cross,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Ocean Pearl,<HSEP>Spitfire,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Ocean Spray,<HSEP>Stag Hound,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Olive Branch,<HSEP>Storm King,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Onward,<HSEP>Sun Beam,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Oriental,<HSEP>Surprise,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Orion,<HSEP>Sword Fish,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Pampero,<HSEP>Siren,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Peerless,<HSEP>Tam O'Shanter,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Phantom,<HSEP>Telegraph,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Queen of Clippers,<HSEP>Tinqua,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Queen of the Pacific,<HSEP>Tornado,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Queen of the Seas,<HSEP>Trade Wind,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Rattler,<HSEP>Typhoon,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Raven,<HSEP>Viking,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Red Rover,<HSEP>Waterwitch,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Reindeer,<HSEP>Western Star,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Ring Leader,<HSEP>Westward Ho!</P>
075.sgm:<P>Rip Van Winkle,<HSEP>West Wind,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Rover's Bride,<HSEP>Whirlwind,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Sea Serpent,<HSEP>White Squall,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Seaman's Bride,<HSEP>White Swallow,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Shooting Star,<HSEP>Wide Awake,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Simoon,<HSEP>Wild Duck,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Light Foot,<HSEP>Wild Pigeon,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Living Age,<HSEP>Wild Ranger,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Mandarin,<HSEP>Winged Racer,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Matchless,<HSEP>Wings of the Morning,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Messenger,<HSEP>Witch of the Wave,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Meteor,<HSEP>Witchcraft,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Monsoon,<HSEP>Wizard,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Morning Light,<HSEP>Zoe,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Mountain Wave,</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Leaving the vicinity of the shipping, we wend our way towards the heart of the city.  As we proceed, we observe many objects of interest that deserve more attention than we can bestow upon them at this time.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Degradation, profligacy and vice confront us at every step.  Men are passing to and fro with haggard visages and heads declined, muttering to themselves, and looking as hungry and ferocious as the prowling beasts of an Asiatic jungle.  Before us on either side, we see a group of boys, clad in slouched hats, dirty shirts, ragged pants, and shabby shoes, without socks, who have no regular business.  Sometimes they sell newspapers in the morning, and in the middle of the day engage in various occupations, as, for instance, in peddling fruits, nuts and toys.  At this time several of them seem to have met by chance, and they have stopped to discuss the times and the progress of events.  If we were near enough, we should probably hear the right hand party criticising Madame Anna Thillon's last performance of the opera of La Somnambula, or of the Daughter of the Regiment; and those on the left giving their opinions upon the merits of Madame Anna Bishop's last oratorio or ballad concert.  After disposing of all the actors and actresses in music, opera, pantomime, tragedy and comedy, or, perhaps, after bragging of the successes of certain amours or other youthful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>The bales and stacks of hay and straw piled upon some of the wharves, deserve a passing glance, since they form the sleeping apartments of dozens of penniless vagabonds who are always wandering about the city in idleness and misery, and have no other place to rest, no bed to sleep upon, except these out-door packages of provender, into which they creep for shelter and slumber during the long hours of the night.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Continuing our perambulations in a westerly direction, we find ourselves at the foot of Commercial street, which runs almost due east and west through the centre of the city.  This street we will pass up, paying attention as we proceed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Most of the buildings in this part of the street are tenanted by those mysterious and avaricious characters whose arrival in this, as well as in other places, is always as inexplicable as that of the flies in summer, and whose exit is equally as unceremonious as that of the swallows in winter--no one knowing whence they came or whither they go--the Jews, those nomades of civilization.  These erratic and money-loving descendants of the ancient biblical patriarchs seem to follow in the wake of all adventurous Christians and gentiles who wear those convenient articles of apparel denominatedready-made clothes.  Preferring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>They do not employ any of their time or means in advancing the permanent and substantial interests of the country.  None of them engage in any sort of manual labor, except, perhaps, that which is of the most trivial and unmanly nature, such, for instance, as the manufacturing of jewelry and haberdashery.  Mining, the cultivation of the soil, in a word, any occupation that requires exposure to the weather, is too fatiguing and intolerable for them.  The law requiring man to get bread by the sweat of his brow, is an injunction with which they refuse to comply.  It is a tax they are unwilling to pay--an enigma beyond their comprehension--they will not sweat.  Dealing in ready-made clothing appears to be their peculiar forte; and this is about the only thing they follow in San Francisco--as I think <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>We observe that they have presumptuously unsurped or occupied from four to six feet of the way on either side of the street, by building little wooden racks and projections in front of their stores, for the purpose of making a more conspious display of their marketable vestments in dry weather.  In any other place than California such unjust appropriations of the streets of a city would not be tolerated; but here, where usurpation, illegality and confusion reign supreme, no attention is paid to it.</P>
075.sgm:<P>It has ever been the misfortune of the Jew to undergo the scorn and contumely of self-styled Christians, and indeed of all nations.  Since the destruction of his ancient capital by the Romans, he has been an outcast in the world, the standing butt of the Gentile's scoffs.  California is no exception to this general rule.  But little respect is shown him there; and he is continually jeered by having applied to him such annoying epithets as Christ-killer, ham-hater and anti-pork-eater.  But few of them have signs over their doors, as most men have who transact business upon their honor and reputation.  Some of them buy and sell under assumed names; but in general their business is anonymously conducted.  Bidding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Higher up the street we come to a better class of buildings than the miserable little shops we have just left, and we get a fair view of the permanent and attractive architecture of San Francisco--the brick and stone structures.  Many of these buildings are beautifully designed and symmetrically proportioned, and have fire-proof walls varying from sixteen to twenty-four inches in thickness.  They are usually from two to four stories in height.  One hotel is five stories high, being the tallest house in the State.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Probably no city in this country can boast of buildings so substantial and thoroughly fire-proof as those of San Francisco.  Besides making the walls very thick, every care is taken to have the doors, window-shutters and roofs equally stout and incombustible; nor is this precaution at all surprising, when it is remembered that this city alone has lost more than twenty-five millions of dollars by fire.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Owing to the unusual dryness of the weather, the prevalence of winds in summer, and the inadequate supply of water possessed by the city, all combustible matter is rendered so inflammable that it is quite impossible to keep it from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>It is a remarkable fact, however, that less than half of these improvements have been made with California gold.  Ask the proprietors where they got the money which they have expended in the erection of these buildings, and they will tell you it came from the Atlantic States and from Europe.  Those who occupy them, the merchants and business men from New York, London, Paris, Hamburg, Bremen, and other places, will testify to this fact.  California gold is to the world much what Southern cotton is to the North; it is not retained at home to supply the wants of the people, to afford them employment, to enrich or embellish the country, but is passed into distant hands, and afterwards brought back at a premium.  Thus the producers are continually drained, and the commonwealth necessarily impoverished by this unthrifty management.</P>
075.sgm:<P>These buildings are erected upon the most eligible and convenient sites, and form what is properly termed the business portion of the city--covering, probably, about one-sixth of its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>To acquaint ourselves with the character of the speculators and business men in San Francisco would be a curious and interesting task.  They are certainly the shrewdest rascals in the world, and a straight-forward, honest man, who acts upon principle and adheres to a legitimate system of dealing, can no more cope with them than he can fly.  But notwithstanding their shrewdness, and I might say, in some instances, their excellent business qualifications, they exhibit less method and system in their transactions than any class of traders I ever saw.  Whatever they do is done in a helter-skelter, topsy-turvy sort of way, as if they had just fallen out of their element, and were scrambling to get back again.  They never take time to do a thing well, but are always going and coming, or bustling about in such a manner, that one would suppose they were making preparations for some calamitous emergency, rather than attending to the every day routine of an established occupation.</P>
075.sgm:<P>This restless disposition is characteristic of the inhabitants of every part of the State; the mind seems all the time to be intently engaged upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Pursuing this digression a little further, it may be remarked of San Francisco that, although she is indebted to California for her existence, she is no longer dependent upon the State for her support.  San Francisco can now claim to be as much the city of the Pacific; or of the world, as of California.  The commercial advantages she enjoys, her inviting harbor and central position, are far superior in importance to any benefit she is likely to receive from the interior.  The profits she will gain from the whale-fishing fleet of the North Pacific, and from her trade with the islands of the South Pacific, with China, Oregon and Russian America, will place her in a more prominent and enviable position than it is possible for the State ever to attain.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Returning to our subject, we find ourselves as far advanced on our way as Montgomery street.  The course of this street lies north and south through the middle of the most beautiful and wealthy part of the city; it is, therefore, both the Broadway and the Wall street of San Francisco.  Every phase and trait of life and character is cognizable here.  The dramatist who would study human nature here, would have an opportunity of striking out something new, instead of repeating the old creations of his predecessors, for surely never was there so varied a page spread out before the eyes of man.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>While in this vicinity, we may observe men, who in the Atlantic States bore unblemished reputations for probity and honor, sinking into the lowest depths of shame and degradation.  Others, whose moral characters are unobjectionable, have been pecuniarily unfortunate, and are driven to the necessity of engaging in the most menial and humiliating employments.  Among the latter class, I might mention lawyers, who, to save themselves from the severe pangs of actual want, have been compelled to fish around the wharves for crabs, and to enlist themselves in the petty traffic of shrimps and tomcods.  Ministers and physicians fare no better.  In a certain hotel in this city, not long since, a lawyer was employed as a regular runner; in another, adjacent to it, a physician was engaged to pare potatoes and wash dishes; while in a neighboring restaurant, a preacher was hired to wait upon the customers and clean off the tables.  Now, does not every reasonable man know that these professional men did not voluntarily follow these inferior pursuits?  It was not a matter of choice with them.  They could not help themselves; they were out of money, out of employment, destitute of friends, and were compelled to take advantage of the first opportunity that offered of earning their daily bread.  Half the lowest and most servile situations or offices in this and other cities in the State are filled often without any orther remuneration, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>New as the country is, the dandy, that exquisite flower of a finished civilization, is not unknown.  He may be seen at any time sunning his external splendor on the side-walk, and scorning his more useful cotemporaries as loftily as though he were promenading Broadway or the Champs Elysees.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Together with bankers, stock-jobbers, and other moneyed men, we observe that the students or disciples of Blackstone, Coke and Story have selected this street for their offices.  Considering the heterogeneous composition of society in this country, the loose and unsystematic transactions of every-day business, and the unsettled state of public affairs, it will be readily perceived that there is an incessant clashing of feeling and interest, and that the result is a great deal of strife and litigation.  Disputes and difficulties relative to real property, and spurious or imaginary claims, keep the court dockets continually crowded; and the lawyers have rich and abundant opportunities for the exercise of their forensic abilities.</P>
075.sgm:<P>For the first two or three years after the settlement of California by the Americans, all attempts to organize or establish the civil law proved fruitless; and during this anarchical period no redress could be had, except by an appeal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Land titles are now as much contested as they ever were, there being in some instances as many as half a dozen claimants to a single lot.  The squatters cause most of these troubles.  Generally poor, and homeless, they settle upon any vacant or unoccupied piece of ground that suits them; and as there is a numerous body linked together for mutual support and protection, it is an extremely difficult matter for the half-sustained civil authorities to remove them.  If the law were sufficiently forcible--if there were any such thing in California as sovereign law, these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:intruders would be brought to justice, and instead of the broils and butchery now so common all over the country, peace, safety and good order would exist.  But as it is, no dependence can be placed upon the administration of justice; and unless a man takes the law in his own hands, and defends his person and property <HI REND="italics">vi et armis</HI>
075.sgm:<P>The grog-shops or tippling-houses constitute the last but not the least prominent feature of Montgomery street that we will notice at the present time.  The devil has certainly met with more than usual success in establishing so many of these, his recruiting officers, in this region; for we cannot visit any part of the state or city without finding them always at our elbow.  San Francisco might allot one to every street corner in the city, or in other words, four to every intersection of the streets, and still her number would not be exhausted.  It is astonishing what an amount of time, labor and money is misspent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Lest we should fall in love with one of these sirens, we will not go near them, but will enter one of the saloons kept by a biped of our own sex.  Across the street is a large and fashionable one, called the Blue Wing,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Where politicians most do congregate,<LB>To let their tongues tang arguments of State."<LB></HI>
075.sgm:<P>Adding ourselves to the number of its inmates, we find the governor of the State seated by a table, surronded by judges of the supreme and superior courts, sipping sherry cobblers, smoking segars, and reveling in all the delights <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>BILL OF FARE OF A CALIFORNIA GROGGERY</P>
075.sgm:<P>Bowie Knives and Pistols.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Scotch Ale,<HSEP>Burgundy,</P>
075.sgm:<P>English Porter,<HSEP>Haut Bersae&aelig;,</P>
075.sgm:<P>American Brandy,<HSEP>Champagne,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Irish Whiskey,<HSEP>Maraschino,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Holland Gin,<HSEP>Tafia,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Jamaica Rum,<HSEP>Negus,</P>
075.sgm:<P>French Claret,<HSEP>Tog,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Spanish Sack,<HSEP>Shambro,</P>
075.sgm:<P>German Hockamore,<HSEP>Fisca,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Persian Sherbet,<HSEP>Virginia,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Portuguese Port,<HSEP>Knickerbocker,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Brazilian Arrack,<HSEP>Snifter,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Swiss Absynthe,<HSEP>Exchange,</P>
075.sgm:<P>East India Acids,<HSEP>Poker,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Spirit Stews and Toddies,<HSEP>Agent,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Lager Beer,<HSEP>Floater,</P>
075.sgm:<P>New Cider,<HSEP>I O U,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Soda Waters,<HSEP>Smasher,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Mineral Drinks,<HSEP>Curacoa,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Ginger Pop,<HSEP>Ratafia,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Usquebaugh,<HSEP>Tokay,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Sangaree,<HSEP>Calcavalla,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Perkin,<HSEP>Alcohol,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Mead,<HSEP>Cordials,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Metheglin,<HSEP>Syrups,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Eggnog,<HSEP>Stingo,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Capilliare,<HSEP>Hot Grog,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Kirschwassen,<HSEP>Mint Juleps,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Cognac,<HSEP>Gin Sling,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Rhenish Wine,<HSEP>Brick Tops</P>
075.sgm:<P>Sauterne,<HSEP>Sherry Cobblers,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Malaga,<HSEP>Queen Charlottes,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Muscatel,<HSEP>Mountaineers,</P>
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075.sgm:<P>Brandy Smashes,<HSEP>Flip Flap,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Whiskey Punch,<HSEP>One-eyed Joe,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Cherry Bounce,<HSEP>Cooler,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Shamperone,<HSEP>Cocktails,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Drizzles,<HSEP>Tom and Jerry,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Our Own,<HSEP>Moral Suasion,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Red Light,<HSEP>Jewett's Fancy,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Hairs,<HSEP>Ne Plus Ultra,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Horns,<HSEP>Citronella Jam,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Whistler,<HSEP>Silver Spout,</P>
075.sgm:<P>White Lion,<HSEP>Veto,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Settler,<HSEP>Deacon,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Peach and Honey,<HSEP>Ching Ching,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Whiskey Skin,<HSEP>Sergeant,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Old Sea Dog,<HSEP>Stone Wall,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Peg and Whistle,<HSEP>Rooster Tail,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Eye Opener,<HSEP>Vox Populi,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Apple Dam,<HSEP>Tug and Try,</P>
075.sgm:<P>Segars and Tobacco.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The annual consumption of beer, wines and liquors in this State exceeds five millions of gallons, a vast deal of which is retailed at extraordinarily remunerative rates.  All of the first class establishments, I mean those that deal in good qualities, charge twenty-five cents for every drink or dram they sell; but an adulterated article, of which there is always an abundant supply in market, can be procured at about one half that price.  In some of the most popular and respectable saloons, genuine articles are always kept on hand for the benefit and accommodation of those who are willing to pay for a delicious (?) draught.  I may not be a competent judge, but this much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO--CONTINUED.</P>
075.sgm:<P>WE will now look into Clay street, which intersects Montgomery, and runs parallel with Commercial.  Next to Montgomery, this is the most fashionable street in the city; the large establishments where retailers deal in ladies' and gentlemen's dress goods being situated upon it.  The side-walks are narrow, and generally crowded to such an excess as to render it really difficult and tiresome to travel them.  To the ladies, shopping on this street is especially annoying and tedious; for they are designedly balked or hindered in their course by a set of well-dressed vagabonds, who promenade the <HI REND="italics">trestoir</HI>
075.sgm:<P>The following little circumstance, which occurred here about a year ago, will show that, however culpable it may be in those who make a regular business of gazing intently in ladies' faces, the act is sometimes induced by a natural and inoffensive regard for the opposite sex.  A very clever married lady, whose notions and ideas of things were somewhat akin to those of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The gambling-houses cannot be overlooked in a true sketch of life in San Francisco.  One of the largest and most frequented of these, called the Diana, stands a few doors above us.  The building extends, through the entire block, from Clay to Commercial street, and has a front proportionate to its depth.  The doors, which lead into it from either street, are kept wide open from nine in the morning till twelve at night, during which time the hall or saloon is generally filled to overflowing with lazy men, of little principle, whose chief employment consists in devising some sinister plans of procuring a livelihood without work.  On one side is a bar, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:attended by a <HI REND="italics">lady</HI>
075.sgm:<P>Seated around numerous tables, covered with cloth or velvet, and finished expressly for gambling purposes, are some rare specimens of greedy speculators in the folly of their fellowmen.  The proprietor of the house rents his tables to professional gamblers at a stipulated sum per month, with the condition that he is to receive a certain per centage on the net proceeds of their swindling operations.  Usually, two gamblers form a copartnership, hire one table, and station themselves opposite each other, so that each can understand every man&oelig;uvre and secret sign of the other; and when a good opportunity for cheating or defrauding presents itself to one of them, the other is always prepared to divert the attention of the audience or of the interested party from his partner's motions.  Every possible variety of gaming that can be accomplished by cards and dice is practiced here; and every false and dishonest trick is resorted to (often with more than anticipated success) to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>At one of the tables we observe two proprietors, as before described.  One of them is a lank, cadaverous fellow, with a repulsive expression of low cunning, full of hypocrisy and deceit, taciturn in disposition, unengaging in manners, who was formerly a Baptist preacher in Connecticut.  The other has a vinous, fat, and jolly countenance, is open-faced, enjoys a joke, is lively, laughs at his partner for being so melancholy, is affable and courteous to strangers, talks a great deal, as might be expected, since, before he came to California, he was considered on of the most promising young lawyers in Mississippi.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The proprietors of another table are two old gentlemen of "three score years and ten," whose white hairs and wrinkled brows would seem to belong to a more honorable station in life than that assigned them by destiny.  A third table is used by a couple of Spaniards, whose scowling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:brows and treacherous eyes indicate that they are better qualified for the transaction of infamous and atrocious deeds, than for fair dealing or magnanimous behaviour.  A Jew and Jewess have command of the fourth table; the fifth is under the direction and management of a French <HI REND="italics">gentleman</HI>
075.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">lady</HI>
075.sgm:<P>I neglected to mention before, that, in some conspicuous point of the principal houses of this character, there is generally erected a stage or platform, upon which a company of musicians perform at intervals of a quarter of an hour.  This they are employed to do for the purpose of enticing unsuspecting strangers and passers-by.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Like those engaged in the liquor traffic, these gamblers are a public nuisance, a burden upon society.  They do no sort of profitable manual or mental labor; yet the community grants them a license to abuse the public, and to debase <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Thousands of these swindlers live by their expertness in gambling and tricks of legerdemain.  Dissipated, reckless, and restless, they rove from place to place, rarely acquiring decent habits or becoming permanent citizens.  They are, nevertheless, great lovers and admirers of women; and most of them make it a special branch of their business to cultivate a due share of female acquaintance.  But we will now bid adieu to the blacklegs, and return again to the street, merely stopping a minute or two, as we pass out, to listen to the enchanting strains of "Katy Darling," or "Lilly Dale," played by the brass band in attendance.</P>
075.sgm:<P>What is here called the plaza, or park, which occupies one square between Washington, Clay, Kearney and Brenham streets, now lies before us; but as it is nothing more nor less than a cow-pen, inclosed with unplaned plank, we will say but little about it.  In the middle is planted a tall liberty-poll, near which is erected a rude rostrum for lynch-lawyers and noisy politicians.  If there is a tree, or a bush, or a shrub, or a sprig of grass, or any thing else in or about it that is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>A few doors above the Exchange stands the City Hall, which was formerly the Jenny Lind Theatre--a very neat stone structure, but wholly unsuited for the purpose to which it is now applied.  The parties who built it for a theatre soon ascertained that it was a bad speculation, and became considerably involved in debt; and, to save themselves, and make the best of a bad bargain, they bribed a majority of the aldermen to purchase it for a City Hall, at several thousand dollars above the original cost.</P>
075.sgm:<P>In this way a monstrous swindle was perpetrated upon the community, by fraudulently appropriating the public money to the use and benefit of private individuals.  But the fraud could not be remedied; the city officers had been elected as the representatives of the citizens, whose rights and powers had been vested in them, and if they were so base as to prove <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:recreant to their trust, the penalty had to be paid by their constituents.  They consummated their corrupt bargain for the theatre, the properties were removed, and, after the expenditure of much time, labor, and money, in making alterations and additions, the building was converted into what now stands before us--the City Hall of San Francisco.  The principals in this iniquitous transaction enriched themselves and their accomplices at the expense of the city treasury, suffering nothing except the denunciations and execrations of an abused and outraged public.  This is a fair sample of the disposition that is made of the public funds throughout the State.  Sheriffs, treasurers, and tax-collectors, in the majority of cases, are expected to decamp with all the money in their hands, or to embezzle a part of it; and it has passed into a proverb, that no <HI REND="italics">honest</HI>
075.sgm:<P>Were we to remain an hour or two in this vicinity, we should probably see a police officer rolling " a perpetual hymn to the Deity" on a wheelbarrow--for that, we believe, is Poe's euphemism for a woman.  Intoxication is quite common among the ladies of this particular section of San Francisco, and the wheelbarrow, or some other vehicle, must be employed to convey them to the station-house, on account of the total failure of their natural organs of locomotion.</P>
075.sgm:<P>On the north side of the Plaza are some of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:best French eating-houses in the State.  One of them, the <HI REND="italics">Cafe du Commerce</HI>
075.sgm:<P>All the more substantial articles of food, such as flour, meal, beef, pork, and butter, are imported from Europe or brought from the Atlantic States.  As these provisions are sent around by Cape Horn, they must pass twice through the tropics before they arrive in San Francisco; consequently, most of them become more or less sour, musty, or rancid, which, as we all know, renders them not only repugnant to the palate, but also injurious to health.  But, notwithstanding their transportation of from seventeen to twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Sour flour is sold at reduced prices to the bakers, who mix it with a larger quantity--say twice as much--of that which is sweet; then it is manufactured into bread, delivered to the restaurants, and devoured by the populace.  The flour put up by the Gallego and Haxall mills, of Richmond, Virginia, receives less damage in its transit through the torrid zone than any other--at least, this is the reputation it enjoys in California, those brands being more highly prized and more eagerly sought after by bakers and consumers.  Next to the Richmond, the Fredericksburg and Georgetown flour is most in demand.  How it is that the flour manufactured in the localities just named, or in the vicinity of those localities, retains its pure and primitive qualities better and longer than that produced at the North, which, with few exceptions, spoils on the way, I am unable to say--unless, perhaps, the latitude or climate imparts to it a healthier condition or a preservative principle.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>Within the last one or two years, considerable quantities of the cerealia have been cultivated in the low lands and valleys of this State, and a few flouring mills have been erected, which are now in operation; but the proprietors mix their grists so much with rye and barley, that the flour is less marketable than it would be if it was ground out of genuine wheat.  To give character to their spurious compound, they practice a double imposition, by packing it in empty Gallego and Haxall barrels, which are clandestinely purchased and kept in readiness for the purpose.  Thus they steal the reputation of the Virginia brands; and, by placing their falsely-labeled, inferior flour in the hands of their rascally agents, they succeed in effecting large sales of it to those who are not particular in their examinations.  Though the fraud is easily detectedwhen the barrels are opened, there is no chance of obtaining redress; for, in most cases, these deceptions are carried out in such an indirect or complicated way, through factors and agents, that it is too difficult a matter to trace them to their source.  If, however, the guilty parties are discovered, it amounts to nothing; because here, where the laws are so loosely and imperfectly administered, where all strong persons do as they please, and weak ones must do as they can, it costs more to adjust a wrong than it does to endure it.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>This system of cheating and adulteration is carried out in all ramifications of business; and if a man is not continually upon the alert, he is sure to suffer the penalty of his negligence, by having a worse thing than he bargained for thrust upon him, and that, too, without redress.</P>
075.sgm:<P>To return from our digression: although the French are somewhat more philosophic and scientific in their preparation of viands, we perceive no material difference between their mode of living and our own.  They eat more slowly, are more graceful in their deportment at table, and seem to enjoy their meals as a feast, rather than to devour them as a necessary repast.  Wine is their principal drink, morning, noon and night; and dinner to them, without it, would be as insipid and unpalatable as breakfast to our American grand-mothers without coffee.  After the main part of the meal is finished, it is customary with them to sip a small cup of strong coffee, as a sort of accompaniment to their dessert.  This, however, they do not flavor with cream, as we do, but use Cognac, burnt with sugar, instead.  It is an unusual thing for them to drink water at any time, except when mixed with wine.  I have the pleasure of the acquaintance of a very worthy and estimable French gentleman, who assured me that he had taken but one drink of crude water in four years, "and then," he added, "it make me sick."</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO--CONCLUDED.</P>
075.sgm:<P>AFTER a night's lodging in one of the humanstables of San Francisco, called here, for politeness' sake, hotels, we feel sufficiently refreshed to continue our reconnoissance of the city.  It will probably be as well for us to retrace our steps to the south side of the Plaza, where we re-enter Clay street, and ascend the long, high hill that forms the western boundary of the city.  Before proceeding far, we come to a pistol gallery, on the left, owned and conducted by one Dr. Natchez, a short, thick-set "son of thunder," who keeps on hand the best assortment of dueling apparatus that the world affords.  The proprietor's real cognomen is, I think, Brown, Smith or Jones; but every body calls him Natchez, because he came from the town of that name in Mississippi.  He knows all about guns, pistols, and ammunition; is an excellent shot--can hit a bull's eye or a man's eye every time he pulls a trigger; and never fails to vindicate his honor when it is assailed.  In the opinion of the duelist, he is emphatically an honor-saving man; and in matters of personal difficulty and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Among the fiery spirits of this Western Metropolis, the slightest affront, even though it may be purely accidental, is considered a wound to dignity curable only by an application of Colt's revolver to the breast of the transgressor; and as Dr. Natchez enjoys the reputation of preparing the best remedies for wounded honor, all those afflicted with the disorder apply to him for relief.  Laying before him their ailments and grievances, he will at once say <HI REND="italics">the cause must be removed</HI>
075.sgm:<P>Passing on towards the summit of the hill before us, we soon arrive at an elevation from which we have a clear and uninterrupted view of the whole city, which contains, it is supposed, from forty-five to fifty thousand inhabitants--about one-fifth of the entire population of the State.  The original water-boundary of the city, on the east, was in the form of a crescent; but, the bay being shallow in this particular part, its shape has been changed, by filling it in with sand from the adjacent hills.  Owing to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The process of filling up these water-lots was very irregular; and, as the work advanced, several ponds of water, which afterwards became stagnant, were cut off by these means from the ocean.  In other places, the tide receded from the shallow parts of the bay, and from the surface thus left bare, as well as from the ponds last mentioned, there arose large quantities of highly offensive and almost suffocating gas, which obliterated all the painted signs in the immediate vicinity.  Strange to say, the effluvium exhaled from these foul ponds and marshy places did not produce disease.  The wind blew it off or counteracted its insalubrious effects.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Viewing the city from our present elevated position, we look in vain for any verdure.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Many other natural and artificial deficiencies and peculiarities, for which San Francisco is famous, might, with propriety, be considered before we quit our high retreat; but we will now conclude our panoramic sketch, and descend into the more densely settled part of the city.</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>THE CHINESE IN CALIFORNIA.</P>
075.sgm:<P>THE national habits and traits of Chinese character, to which they cling with uncompromising tenacity in this country, are strikingly anomalous and distinct from those of all other nations.  There is a marked identity about their features, person, manners and costume, so unmistakable that it betrays their nationality in a moment.  So stereotyped are even the features and form of this singular people, that we cannot fail in their identity in the rudest cut that pretends to represent them.  Particular fashions and modes of dress give them no concern whatever.  One common rule seems to guide them in all their personal decorations.  All their garments look as if they were made after the same pattern, out of the same material, and from the same piece of cloth.  In short, the similarity in their garb, features, physical proportions and deportment is so great that one Chinaman looks almost exactly like another, but very unlike any body else.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Let us now place ourselves in front of one of these xanthous children of the flowery land, and survey him somewhat minutely.  Every one is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:acquainted with his method of dressing his head, which is closely shaven, except a small spot on the crown, about the size of the palm of the hand.  Into this slender lock of hair thus permitted to grow upon the apex of his cranium, he interweaves long strands of sable silk, which form a cue that nearly reaches the ground.  His hat, which possesses a brim of enormous width, is manufactured out of ratan or bamboo splints, and has an indentation made in the top expressly for the accommodation of his cue.  He very seldom, however, wears this appendage tucked up in his hat, but generally allows it to trail about his back and legs, as young girls sometimes do ribbons.  This pig-tail he loves as he does his life; and he would as willingly have his right arm amputated as part with it.  Notwithstanding he carries it behind him, it is his character--the badge of his respectability; and Boodh or Josh alone could prevail upon him to cut it off.  His coat, which is fashioned very much like a pea-jacket, is made of crow-colored cotton cloth, of flimsy texture, and buttons loosely around him as low down as convenience will permit.  His pantaloons, the legs of which are a trifle smaller than a medium-sized meal-bag, are composed of the same stuff as his coat, and terminate at about the middle of his shins.  His shoes or sandals--minus socks, for he never wears any--are hewn out of solid wood, and taper towards the toe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>According to the most reliable estimates, there are at the present time about forty thousand Chinese in California; and every vessel that arrives from the Celestial Empire brings additional immigrants.  From a fourth to a fifth of these reside in San Francisco; the balance are scattered about over various parts of the State--mostly in the mines.  A few females--say one to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:every twelve or fifteen males--are among the number; among these good morals are unknown, they have no regard whatever for chastity or virtue.  You would be puzzled to distinguish the women from the men, so inconsiderable are the differences in dress and figure.  The only apparent difference is, that they are of smaller stature and have smoother features.  They are not generally neat in their outward habit; but on certain occasions, particularly on holidays, the <HI REND="italics">elite</HI>
075.sgm:<P>What the majority of them do for a livelihood is more than I can tell, as they have but few visible occupations.  The laundry business affords those who live in San Francisco, and other cities, the most steady and lucrative employment; and in passing their premises, the eye is often attracted to such "Celestial" signs as the following: "Kum Kee.  Washer."  "Ahi Fe.  Launder."  "Wong Cho.  Washing and Ironing--$3 per Doz."  Catching and drying fish is another business in which they engage, but do not carry it on extensively; others are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:engaged in mercantile pursuits; and here and there you will find one in a public house, filling the place of a cook or a waiter.  But, though most of them are held as mere slaves by their wealthier countrymen, it goes desperately against the grain with them to take the situation of servants among white people, as they are constitutionally haughty and conceited, and believe themselves to be superior to us in all respects.  So exalted an opinion have they of themselves that they think they are the most central, civilized and enlightened people on earth, and that they are the especial favorites of heaven--hence they are sometimes called "Celestials."  They look upon us and all other white-skinned nations as "outside barbarians," and think we are unduly presumptuous if we do not pay them homage!  Out of the cities, more of them are engaged in mining than in any other occupation; but, as I intimated before, the majority of them lead a very inactive and unproductive life.  Much physical exertion, however, is not required to secure them a maintenance; for their aliment, if possible, costs them less than their dress, which is by no means expensive.  Indeed, so sparing are they in their meals, that it is seldom they eat any thing but boiled rice; and even this, which they bring with them from China, is very inferior to that raised in the Carolinas.  It is an amusing spectacle to see one of them feeding on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The Americans salute them all indiscriminately by the easy and euphonious appellation of "John," to which they reply as readily as if they were addressed by their true names; and they return the compliment by applying the same term to us, equally indiscriminately.A great number of them think "John" is the only name white people have; and if they have occasion to speak to an American or European woman, they call her "John," too!  But their own vernacular cognomens, like their language and habits, sound certainly very odd to occidental ears.  The following may be taken as fair specimens: Kak Chow, Chum Fi, Yah Wah, Si Ta, Hom Fong, Dack Mung, Gee Foo.  They are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Is this Chinese immigration desirable?  I think not; and, contrary to the expressed opinions of many of the public prints throughout the country, contend that it ought not to be encouraged.  It is not desirable, because it is not useful; or, if useful at all, it is so only to themselves--not to us.  No reciprocal or mutual benefitsare conferred.  In what capacity do they contribute to the advancement of American interests?  Are they engaged in any thing that adds to the general wealth and importance of the country?  Will they discard their clannish prepossessions, assimilate with us, buy of us, and respect us?  Are they not so full of duplicity, prevarication and pagan prejudices, and so enervated and lazy, that it is impossible for them to make true or estimable citizens?  I wish their advocates would answer me these questions; if they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:will do it satisfactorily, I will interrogate them no further.  Under the existing laws of our government, they, as well as all other foreigners, are permitted to work the mines in California as long as they please, and as much as they please, without paying any thing for the privilege, except a small tax to the State.  Even this has but recently been imposed, and half the time is either evaded or neglected.  The general government, though it has sacrificed so much blood and treasure in acquiring California, is now so liberal that it refuses to enact a law imposing a tax upon foreign miners; and as a matter of course, it receives no revenue whatever from this source.  But the Chinese are more objectionable than other foreigners, because they refuse to have dealing or intercourse with us; consequently, there is no chance of making any thing of them, either in the way of trade or labor.  They are ready to take all they can get from us, but are not willing to give any thing in return.  They did not aid in the acquisition or settlement of California, and they do not intend to make it their future home.  They will not become permanent citizens, nor identify their lives and interests with the country.  They neither build nor buy, nor invest capital in any way that conduces to the advantage of any one but themselves.  They have thousands of good-for-nothing gewgaws and worthless articles of <HI REND="italics">virtu</HI>
075.sgm: for sale, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Though they hold themselves aloof from us, contemn and disdain us, they have guaranteed to them the same privileges that we enjoy; and are allowed to exhaust the mines that should be reserved for us and our posterity--that is, if they are worth reserving at all.  Their places could and should be filled with worthier immigrants--Europeans, who would take the oath of allegiance to the country, work both for themselves and for the commonwealth, fraternize with us, and, finally, become a part of us.  All things considered, I cannot perceive what more right or business these semi-barbarians have in California than flocks of blackbirds have in a wheatfield; for, as the birds carry off the wheat without leaving any thing of value behind, so do the Confucians gather the gold, and take it away with them to China, without compensation to us who opened the way to it.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Still they are received with a flattering welcome.  They are taken by the hand with an obsequious grasp, as if their favor was earnestly desired; and the impression is at once made upon their minds, that not only their own presence, but also that of as many more of their kindred as can be persuaded to come, is coveted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>But I am inclined to look upon them as an inauspicious element of society--a seed of political dissensions.  They have neither the strength of body nor the power of mind to cope with us in the common affairs of life; and as it seems to be a universal law that the stronger shall rule the weaker, it will be required of them, ere long, to do one of two things, namely--either to succumb, to serve us, or to quit the country.  Which will they do?  Our people will not always treat them with undue complaisance.  Their real merits and demerits will be developed, and such stations as their natural endowments qualify them to fill will be assigned them. They must work for themselves, or we will make them work for us.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>CURSORY VIEWS.</P>
075.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA has features as distinct and peculiar as the Alps or the Andes.  It cannot be mistaken for any other country; it is like no other region on the face of the earth.  Being new, and in some respects untried, the most various conjectures, and the most opposite opinions have been expressed as to its future fortunes and ultimate destiny.  A few who have been successful in their schemes and undertakings, and whose interests and existence are now blended with it, flatter themselves that it is destined to become a great and flourishing state; while, on the other hand, the great majority, who have been disappointed in all their expectations, and thwarted in every attempt, pronounce it an unmitigated cheat, and curse it bitterly as the cause of their ruin.  My own opinions are, I imagine, by this time pretty well understood.  I speak of the country as I have seen it, not as a mere passing traveler, but as an attentive observer.  I emigrated to it as much in search of adventure as of profit; and, during the three years of my residence within its borders, have had ample <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>While there is any unoccupied land between the British boundaries of Maine and the Mexican limits of Texas, between the Florida Reefs and the Falls of St. Anthony, I would not advise any person to emigrate to California for the purpose of bettering his worldly condition.  I have, indeed, no personal knowledge of the other divisions of land west of the Rocky Mountains; yet an acquaintance with gentlemen of character and veracity who have visited those sections, justifies the opinion that none of them abound in those elements of exuberant and permanent greatness so characteristic of the States east of the Rio Grande and the Mississippi.  Oregon and Washington territories, Utah and New Mexico are tolerable countries, and, in some respects, superior to California; but owing to the general inferiority of their natural advantages, they can never become as powerful or important States as Louisiana or New York, Georgia or Illinois.  The Pacific side of the continent is, as a general thing, far inferior to the Atlantic slope.</P>
075.sgm:<P>In my judgment, the present condition and future prospects of California, so far from offering inducements for additional immigration, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:actually portend much poverty and suffering.  The very fact that thousands of men, some of whom have been in the country from three to four years, are working for nothing but their board, is of itself justifiable ground for this apprehension.  More than a dozen stout, sober, able-bodied men, who asked nothing in compensation for their services but food, have applied to me for employment in a single day.  I have elsewhere remarked that many of the most menial and humiliating situations about hotels, stores and private residences are filled by these ill-fated men, who, if they had the means, would be glad to shake off the dust of California from their feet, and return to the homes of their youth, where peace, plenty and happiness are attainable by all.  Misery and despair go to bed with them at night, rise with them in the morning and accompany them throughout the day; they have been grossly deceived;  "hope told them a flattering tale," and broke her lying promise; their hearts are sick with unrelenting and consuming sorrows.  Strangers among strangers, they have no friend to soothe or assist them in the hour of misfortune; if they hunger, they must fast; if sickness overtake them, death is their remedy.  Depressed in spirits, and driven to desperation by bitter and repeated calamities, they betake themselves to the bottle for solace, become insane from extreme anxiety or over-activity of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>They left their homes flushed with hope; those near and dear to them imprinted the last kiss upon their cheeks, and bade them adieu with heavy hearts and tearful eyes, but found consolation in the hope that they would soon return.  Those who escaped the many dangers of the various routes and reached their destination, wrote back to their friends immediately upon their arrival that all was well.  The news was received with ecstasy; heaven was thanked for their deliverance from the perils of the trip; the neighbors were informed of the health and safety of the adventurers; and for a few weeks all things promised well.  In a month or so another letter was anxiously looked for, but did not make its appearance; then fears began to be entertained, and the unwelcome thought would occasionally flash through the mind that all was not well.  Nor was it.  Month after month slowly and gloomily passed away, without bringing any tidings of the poor deluded wanderers; and it has now been so long since they were heard from, that it is easier to reckon the time by years than by months.  Still their fate is wrapt in mystery which is no more likely to be unraveled than is the fate of the President and her crew.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The immigration to California has been too much like the rush of an excited and impatient audience into a theatre, when it is known that a favorite actor is about to perform.  There has been too much scrambling, too much crowding and pushing.  Every body has heard that gold is scattered over her hills and mountains; thousands covet it, and are foolish enough to suppose that any body can get it.  Without taking a calm and deliberate view of the subject--with-out balancing both sides, or counting the cost, they have suddenly abandoned their homes, and rushed in disorder to the land over which hovered their visions of wealth.  They imagined that they had discovered the secret of fortune, and, in their enthusiasm, immediately set out to realize their dreams.  They discovered, alas! too late, that their emigration was ill-timed and unprofitable, that they had exchanged a good situation for a bad one, and that immense sacrifices must be made before they could replace themselves in their former position.</P>
075.sgm:<P>No country can ever become truly great, unless it possesses abundant agricultural resources; and as California is deficient in this as well as in other respects, it is absurd to suppose that she <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:will attract attention longer than her mines pay for working.  The banks of the rivers, and the localities in the San Jose, Sacramento, and San Joaquin valleys, form exceptions to this general sterility.  There the ground is low and moist, or easily irrigated, the soil is extremely fertile, and produces vegetables, which, for size and powers of multiplication, have probably never been equaled.  These spots, however, are little more, in comparison with the area of the State, than are the roads of a county to the county itself; and they cannot, therefore, be depended upon to supply the wants and necessities of the whole country, should it ever be thickly settled throughout--an event which, for the very reason I have mentioned above, I do not believe will ever take place.  These valleys and the banks of the rivers seem to have become the receptacle of nearly all the virtue of the surrounding surface of the country.  As a few specimens of the vegetable monstrosities, the productions of these fertile spots, that have come under my notice, I may mention a beet that weighed forty-seven pounds; a cabbage, thirty-two pounds; a turnip, twenty-six pounds; and Irish potato, seven pounds; and a water-melon, sixty-four pounds.  Onions, lettuce, radishes, and other horticultural productions, also grow to an enormous size.  Irish potatoes, however, I believe, are the most prolific crop that can be planted.  Indian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>That millions of dollars worth of gold have been taken from the mines, and that there is a vast amount still remaining, no one pretends to deny; but then it does not exist in the quantity that is generally supposed.  There is nothing more uncertain, as a business, than gold mining in California.  It is, indeed, like a lottery--more blanks than prizes; and as every man has to take his chances, he must not feel too much disappointed if his luck leaves him with the majority.  A few make themselves independently rich, and go home with flying colors; but where one does it, there are forty or fifty, at least, who, though equally sober, industrious and deserving, do not make more than their support, and very frequently not even that.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Half the stories afloat concerning "wealthy returned Californians" are exaggerated beyond the power of tongue to describe.  A case or two in point:--A young man from the West, who had been mining between two and three years, and with whom I had become acquainted, started home on a certain occasion, with about one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:hundred and sixty dollars over and above his expenses.  In speaking of his friends, I asked him what he was going to tell them when he got home.  "Oh!" says he, "I shall not admit that I have made so little; for, if I do, they'll accuse me of having been indolent, of gambling, of drinking, or some other disreputable thing that I have never been guilty of; so I'll give out that I have made twelve or fifteen thousand dollars; and about the time I shall have got them all in a good humor, I'll take an excursion down to New Orleans, and thence to South America, where I am determined hereafter to seek my fortune."  Thus, although he was honorable, and not addicted to habits of dissipation, he had not the nerve to tell the real truth of his own success.  This shows how easily these exaggerated rumors are set agoing, and public ignorance imposed upon.  The further people live from California, the more credulous are they of golden legends; and I am persuaded that the young man above alluded to had no difficulty in making his neighbors in the West believe he was worth whatever amount he chose to tell them he had made.  Extravagant as this story may sound, it is not without a parallel.  A man, who had accumulated from three to four thousand dollars, returned on a visit to his friends in the East; and, to test the credulity of the people, he put out the report that he had made five hundred thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Admitting all that is claimed for California in regard to her mineral wealth, it affords no reason why every body should rush thither; nor is it any argument that it will ever become the land of promise which an enthusiastic imagination may picture.  It is already a pandemonium; and it does not clearly appear how it can become an elysium.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The benefit of mines of the precious metals to the country in which they are found, is still an open question.  The weight of authority is against them.  The history of Mexico and Peru, in this hemisphere, as well as the new chapter which California is opening, cannot be quoted in their favor.  It seems to be decreed that, the more oblique the route by which gold is reached, the greater is its value; while the more directly it is acquired, the more mischievous is it to the morals and the material wealth of a nation.  If, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>We cannot, therefore, conclude that the mere presence of gold is sufficient to advance California to a high position among her sister commonwealths.  She produces the circulating medium of the country, it is true; and the intrinsic value of that medium causes the world to overlook the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>We will not urge any complaint against the climate; for, in this respect, all classes and conditions of men can be suited, whether from the burning regions of Central Africa, or from the snow-capped mountains of Russian America.  Along the southern line of the State it is oppressively hot, and, as a matter of course, is somewhat enervating; but in the north and northeast, among the mountains, it is extremely cold; and snow, to the depth of from two to ten feet, is found there as late as August.  Large quantities of this snow are brought down to the cities, a distance of more than two hundred miles, by teamsters, and sold as a substitute for ice.  The northern and southern sections of the State are, as yet, but little inhabited or known, except by the natives, who, like all other North American Indians, are ignorant of any thing beyond the limits of their own hunting-ground.  In the middle or central parts of the State, the climate, as a general thing, is delightful, and, withal, highly invigorating and salubrious.  Around San Francisco, particularly, during the winter season, when it does not rain, the weather is unusually mild and pleasant; and I have often heard it compared to the climate of Italy.  It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>SUNDAY IN CALIFORNIA.</P>
075.sgm:<P>THE Sabbath in California is kept, when kept at all, as a day of hilarity and bacchanalian sports, rather than as a season of holy meditation or religious devotion.  Horse-racing, cock-fighting, cony-hunting, card-playing, theatrical performances, and other elegant amusements are freely engaged in on this day.  If I remember correctly, it was about two months after my arrival in the land of gold and misery, that I had the misfortune to become acquainted with a renegade down-east Congregationalist preacher, who invited me to accompany him, on the following Sunday, in a deer-chase.  Throughout the country, and in the mines, shooting-matches and bear-hunting afford pleasant pastimes; gambling is also practiced to a considerable extent, though not so much as on other days.  But we shall probably learn more of the manner in which Sunday is spent, if we confine our attention to one of the larger cities, San Francisco, for example.  Here regattas, duels and prize-fights are favorite diversions; and the Lord's day seldom passes without witnessing one or the other, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Connected with a tippling-house, on the corner of Washington and Montgomery streets, there is one of the finest billiard-saloons in the United States.  It is very large, and magnificently decorated, has twelve tables, and is furnished, I am informed, at a cost of twenty-five thousand dollars.  To this place hundreds of infatuated men betake themselves every Sunday; and it is an unusual thing, at any time, to find one of the tables unoccupied.  Every day of the week, from breakfast time in the morning till twelve o'clock at night, this saloon, like many others of a like kind, is thronged; but the crowds are particularly large on Sunday, because people have more leisure on that day.  Though, in this particular place, they are not allowed to gamble publicly on the Sabbath, they lose and win as much money in the way of secret wagers as they do openly on any other day.</P>
075.sgm:<P>What can we expect but an abuse of the Sabbath, when we take into account the contrariety of characters, tastes, dispositions and religions here huddled together?  When we scrutinize <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:society, we find that some of its members, the Chinese and other pagans for instance, know nothing at all of our system or division of time, and that they are, therefore, absolutely ignorant of the meaning of the word Sunday.  There is no unity of thought, feeling or sentiment here; no oneness of purpose, policy or action.  There is no common interest; every man is for himself, and himself alone.  Society is composed of elements too varied and dissimilar;--it is a heterogeneous assemblage of rivals and competitors, who know no sympathy, and recognize no principle, save that of personal profit and individual emolument.  Nearly all colors and qualities of mankind are congregated here.  The great human family is, as it were, sampled and its specimens formed into one society, each communicating to the other his own peculiar habits, and each contending for the same object--the acquisition of gold.  It is manifest, therefore, that there can be but little concert or harmony of action.  Masquerade balls, cotillion parties and jig dances fill up the list of Sunday diversions.  On Pacific street alone, the most notoriously profligate thoroughfare in the city, there are from twelve to fifteen dance-houses, in which the terpsichorean art is practiced every night during the week, but usually with greater zest and animation on Sunday nights.  These fandangoes are principally under the superintendence or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Bonnets among them are quite unknown.  Half the time they go bare-headed through the streets and to church, just as they do about their premises; but most of them have a long, narrow shawl, which is sometimes worn over the head, as well as the shoulders.  This shawl is, in fact, an almost indispensable article of apparel, especially with the better classes, who never appear in a public place, whether in winter or summer, without it.  They wrap it around their face, head and shoulders so ingeniously that spectators can not obtain a glimpse of any part of their features, save the forehead, eyes and nose; the mouth, chin and cheeks are cautiously concealed.  There is a gross lack of consistency among these women.  Notwithstanding they engage in the lowest debaucheries throughout the week, they are strict attendants of the Catholic church; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Lately, however, women of pure and lofty characters have emigrated to California, and, since their arrival, there has been a gradual and steady improvement of morals among the people, and the Sabbath is now much better observed than it used to be.  Soon after their arrival, schools and churches began to spring up, and social circles were formed; refinement dawned upon a debauched and reckless community, decorum took the place of obscenity; kind and gentle words were heard to fall from the lips of those who before had been accustomed to taint every phrase with an oath; and smiles displayed themselves upon countenances to which they had long been strangers.  Woman accomplished all this, and we should be ungrateful reprobates indeed if we did not honor, esteem and love her for it.  Had I received no other benefit from my trip to California than the knowledge I have gained, inadequate as it may be, of woman's many virtues and perfections, I should account myself well repaid; and I thank heaven that I was induced to embark in an enterprise which resulted in such a collateral remuneration.  This I am constrained to say, because I fear I should never have had a full appreciation of her merits, had I not witnessed her happy influence in this benighted land.  It was only after leaving a home where her constant presence, her soothing and animating society, appeared as a matter of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:course, and removing to a sphere where she had a better opportunity of displaying her power, that I could estimate her real worth.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"From woman's eyes this doctrine I derive:<LB>They sparkle still the right Promethean fire;<LB>They are the books, the arts, the academies,<LB>That show, contain, and nourish all the world.<LB>O, then,<LB>For wisdom's sake, a word that all men love;<LB>Or for love's sake, a word that loves all men;<LB>Or for men's sake, the authors of these women;<LB>Or for women's sake, by whom we men are men,<LB>Let us love women, and ourselves be true,<LB>Or else we harm ourselves, and wrong them too."<LB></HI>
075.sgm:<P>With the generous assistance and co-operation of the gentler sex, the various religious denominations have succeeded in establishing for themselves suitable places of worship in most of the cities and larger towns throughout the State.  San Francisco now contains fourteen churches, two of which are Presbyterian, two Congregational, one Unitarian, three Methodist, two Baptist, two Episcopal, and two Roman Catholic.  The Swedenborgians, Universalists, Mormons, and sundry minor sects occasionally hold service in public halls; and, if I recollect aright, the Jews have two synagogues.  There is also a pagan temple, where the Chinese pay their adorations to Boodh, or to some other imaginary deity, whenever they experience a religious emotion.</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>BEAR AND BULL FIGHT.</P>
075.sgm:<P>It was a beautiful Sabbath morning in November, when the bells aroused me from a dreamy sleep; but before arising from my couch, being lazy and inclined to muse, I allowed my fancy to recall my departure from Carolina with all its attendant circumstances.  The hour alone would have suggested such meditations, for it was on a dewy morning that I bade farewell to the loved ones of my far-off home.  I recalled the yellow lustre of the sun pouring his floods of golden light over the glistening tree-tops; the tender adieus, the streaming eyes, the murmured blessing.  I remembered the sadness of my heart as I thought of the distance that would soon separate me from the friends and companions of my youth, and the high hopes which soothed my pain.</P>
075.sgm:<P>As I was thus pondering I heard the sound of drum, fife and clarionet; and stepping to the window to ascertain what was the meaning of this Sunday music echoing through the streets of San Francisco, I saw a tremendous grizzly bear, caged, and drawn by four spirited horses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>FUN BREWING--GREAT ATTRACTION!</P>
075.sgm:<P>HARD FIGHTING TO BE DONE!</P>
075.sgm:<P>TWO BULLS AND ONE BEAR!</P>
075.sgm:<P>The citizens of San Francisco and vicinity are respectfully informed that at <HI REND="italics">four o'clock this afternoon, Sunday, Nov</HI>
075.sgm:. 14 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
075.sgm:, at <HI REND="italics">Mission Dolores</HI>
075.sgm:, a <HI REND="italics">rich treat</HI>
075.sgm: will be prepared for them, and that they will have an opportunity of enjoying a fund of the <HI REND="italics">raciest sport</HI>
075.sgm: of the season.  Two LARGE BULLS AND A BEAR, all <HI REND="italics">in prime condition for fighting</HI>
075.sgm:, and under the management of <HI REND="italics">experienced Mexicans</HI>
075.sgm:, will contribute to the <HI REND="italics">amusement of the audience</HI>
075.sgm:<P>Programme--In two Acts.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Act I.</P>
075.sgm:<P>BULL AND BEAR--"HERCULES" AND "TROJAN,"</P>
075.sgm:<P>Will be conducted into the arena, and there <HI REND="italics">chained together</HI>
075.sgm:, where they will fight <HI REND="italics">until one kills the other</HI>
075.sgm:<P>JOSE IGNACIO, PICO GOMEZ, Managers.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Act II.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The great bull, "BEHEMOTH," will be <HI REND="italics">let loose in the arena</HI>
075.sgm:, where he will be <HI REND="italics">attacked by two of the most celebrated and expert picadors of Mexico</HI>
075.sgm:, and finally <HI REND="italics">dispatched after the true Spanish method</HI>
075.sgm:<P>Admittance $3--Tickets for sale at the door.</P>
075.sgm:<P>JOAQUIN VATRETO, JESUS ALVAREZ, Managers.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Mission Dolores, the place where these cruel sports were held, is a small village about two miles south-west of San Francisco, which was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:first settled by a couple of Roman Catholic priests during the American Revolution.  It is contended by some that this was the first settlement effected by white persons in Upper California.  The buildings are but one story in height, covered with tiles, and are constructed of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
075.sgm:<P>Starting off with this view, I arrived within <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Four o'clock, the hour appointed for the fight between the bear and the bull, having arrived, a few taps by the drummer, and some popular airs played by the other musicians, announced that the amphitheatre, which fronted the church and stood but a few yards from it; was open for the reception of those who desired admission.  I made my way to the ticket-office, and handed three dollars to the collector, who placed in my hand a voucher, which gained me access to an eligible seat within the inclosure.  I found myself among the first who entered; and as it was some time before the whole audience assembled, I had ample opportunities to scan the characters who composed it, and to examine the arrangement and disposition of things around me.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The seats were very properly elevated so high above the arena that no danger was likely to result from the furious animals; and I suppose five thousand persons could have been conveniently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:accomodated, though only about three-fourths of that number were present.  Among the auditory, I noticed many Spanish maids and matrons, who manifested as much enthusiasm and delight in anticipation of what was to follow as the most enthusiastic sportsman on the ground.  Crying children, too, in the arms of self-satisfied and admiring mothers, were there, full of noise and mischief, and a nuisance, as they always are, in theatres and churches, to all sober-minded people.  Of men, there were all sizes, colors and classes, such as California, and California alone, can bring together.  There was but one, however, who attracted my particular attention on this occasion.  I had no recollection of having ever seen him before that day.  He sat a few feet from me on my left.  There was nothing uncommon about his form or features.  The expression of his countenance was neither intellectual nor amiable.  His acquirements and attainments were doubtless limited, for he demeaned himself rudely, and exhibited but little dignity of manner.  It was the strange metamorphosis he had undergone since the morning which won for him my special observation.  Only four hours had elapsed since I saw him officiating at the altar and feasting upon a substance which he believed to be the actual flesh and blood of Jesus Christ, who died more than eighteen hundred years ago!  In the forenoon of the Lord's day, he took upon himself the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>By this time the whooping, shouting and stamping of the spectators attested that they were eager and restless to behold the brutal combat; and an overture by a full brass band, which had been chartered for the occasion, gave them assurance that their wishes would soon be complied with.  The music ceased; the trap-door of the bull's cage was raised, and "Hercules," hugh, brawny and wild, leaped into the centre of the inclosed arena, shaking his head, switching his tail, and surveying the audience with a savage stare that would have intimidated the stoutest hearts, had he not been strongly barred below them.  His eyes glistened with defiance, and he seemed to crave nothing so much as an enemy upon which he might wreak his vengeance.  He contorted his body, lashed his back, snuffed, snorted, pawed, bellowed, and otherwise behaved so frantically, that I was fearful he could not contain himself until his antagonist was prepared.  Just then, two picadors--Mexicans on horseback--entered the arena, with lassos in hand.  Taurus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Running a pair of large clasping-tongs under Bruin's trap-door, which was lifted just enough for the purpose, they grasped his foot, pulled it out, and held it firmly, while one of the party bound the opposite end of the chain fast to his leg with thongs.  This done, they hoisted the trap-door sufficiently high to admit of his egress, when out stalked "Trojan," apparently too proud and disdainful to vouchsafe a glance upon surrounding objects.  He was a stalwart, lusty-looking animal, the largest grizzly bear I had ever seen, weighing full fourteen hundred pounds.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:It was said that he was an adept in conflicts of this nature, as he then enjoyed the honorable reputation of having delivered three bulls from the vicissitudes of this life.  It is probable, however, that his previous victories had flushed and inspired him with an unwarrantable degree of confidence; for he seemed to regard the bull more as a thing to be despised than as an equal or dangerous rival.  Though he gave vent to a few ferocious growls, it was evident that he felt more inclination to resist an attack than to make one.  With the bull, the case was very different; he was of a pugnacious disposition, and had become feverish for a foe.  Now he had one.  An adversary of gigantic proportions and great prowess stood before him; and as soon as he spied him, he moved backward, the entire length of the chain, which jerked the bear's foot and made him rend the air with a most fearful howl, that served but the more to incense the bull.  Shaking his head maliciously, casting it down, and throwing up his tail, he plunged at the bear with a force and fury that were irresistible.  The collision was terrible, completely overthrowing his ponderous enemy and laying him flat on his back.  Both were injured, but neither was conquered; both mutually recoiled to prepare again to strike for victory.  With eyes gleaming with fire, and full of resolution, the bull strode proudly over his prostrate enemy, and placed himself in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:position to make a second attack.  But now the bear was prepared to receive him; he had recovered his feet wild with rage, and he then appeared to beckon to the bull to meet him without delay.  The bull needed no challenge; he was, if possible, more impetuous than the bear, and did not lose any more time than it required to measure the length of the chain.  Again, with unabated fierceness, he darted at the bear, and, as before, struck him with an impetus that seemed to have been borrowed from Jove's own thunderbolt; as he came in contact with the bear, that amiable animal grappled him by the neck, and squeezed him so hard that he could scarcely save himself from suffocation.  The bull now found himself in a decidedly uncomfortable situtation; the bear had him as he wanted him.  Powerful as he was, he could not break loose from Bruin.  A vice could not have held him more firmly.  The strong arms of the bear hugged him in a ruthless and desperate embrace.  It was a stirring sight to see these infuriated and muscular antagonists struggling to take each other's life.  It was enough to make a heathen generalissimo shudder to look at them.  How ought it to have been, then, with enlightened civilians?  This question I shall not answer; it was easy enough to see how it was with the Spanish ladies--they laughed, cheered, encored, clapped their hands, waved their handkerchiefs, and made every other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Finally, however, fatigued, exhausted, writhing with pain and weltering in sweat and gore, they waived the quarrel and separated, as if by mutual consent.  Neither was subdued; yet both felt a desire to suspend, for a time at least, all further hostilities.  The bull, now exhausted and panting, cast a pacific glance towards the bear, and seemed to sue for an armistice; the bear, bleeding and languid after his furious contest, raised his eyes to the bull, and seemed to assent to the proposition.  But, alas! man, cruel man, more brutal than the brutes themselves, would not permit them to carry out their pacific <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The second act of the afternoon's entertainment was now to be performed.  It would be unnecessary, and painful to the feelings of sensitive readers, to dwell long upon this murderous sport. It was a mere repetition, in another form, of the disgusting horrors of that which preceded it.  Fully satiated with the barbarities I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>But now to the fight.  All things being ready, the great bull, Behemoth, was freed from restraint, and sprang with frantic bounds into the midst of the arena.  He bore a suitable appellation, for he was a monster in size and formidable in courage.  Two picadors, Joaquin Vatreto and Jesus Alvarez, mounted on fiery steeds, with swords in hand, now entered and confronted him.  Behemoth looked upon this sudden invasion as an intolerable insult.  His territory was already too limited for so powerful a monarch as he considered himself, and he could not think of dividing it with others.  The sight of these unceremonious intruders inflamed him with such rancor that he could no longer restrain himself; but lowering his head and tossing his tail aloft, he rushed furiously at them.  They evaded his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>One of the picadors now alighted, and engaged the attention of the bull, while the other led the two horses outside the inclosure.  When this was done, a man on foot, called a matador, dressed in close-fitting, fantastic garments, with a heavy sword in his right hand, and a small red flag in his left, entered the arena and bowed first to the bull and then to the audience.  It was now a matter of life and death between the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:bull and the matador.  One or the other, or both, must die.  If the bull did not kill the man, the man would kill the bull; if the man killed the bull, the man was to live, but if the bull killed the man, the bull was to die; so that death was sure to overtake the bull in any event.  The action commenced, and waxed hotter and hotter every moment, and it was only by uncommon skill and agility that the matador could shun the frenzied charges of the bull.  Had it not been for the flag which he carried in his hand, and which enabled him to deceive his antagonist by seeming to hold it directly before him, when in reality he inclined it to the right or to the left, as his safety dictated, the bull would unquestionably have dashed his brains out, thrown him over his head, or gored him to death.  Nothing could have irritated or vexed the bull more than did the sight of this red flag, and he made all his assaults upon it, supposing, no doubt, that he would strike the mischief behind it, but the agile matador always took special care to spring aside and save himself from the deadly stroke. After tormenting, teasing and chafing him for about a quarter of an hour in this way, six keen javelins or darts, with miniature flags attached, were handed to the matador, who ventured to face the bull, and never quit him until he had planted them all in his shoulders, three in each.  Stung to madness, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The fates, however, were against him  He could not comprehend, and consequently could not foil the crafty designs of his adversary, who completely deceived him with the flag.  Night was now coming on, and it being time to close the performance, the matador, placing himself in a pompous attitude near the south side of the arena, challenged Behemoth to the last and decisive engagement by waving the flag briskly before him.  The bull, exasperated beyond description, needed no additional incentive to urge him to meet the enemy.  With a force apparently equal to that of a rhinoceros, and with the celerity of a reindeer, he rushed at the matador, who, stepping just sufficiently to the left to avoid him, thrust the sword into his breast up to the hilt.  The matador, leaving this sword buried in the bull's body, now laid hold of another, which was on hand for the purpose, and stabbed him three times in a more vital part, when down he fell at his victor's feet, dead.  Then jumping upon the carcass of his slain rival, the matador brandished his sword, doffed his hat, bowed his compliments, and retired, amid the deafening plaudits of a wolfish audience.</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO.</P>
075.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO is situated on the river and in the heart of the valley of the same name, about one hundred miles north-east of San Francisco.  It is the second city in the State in size, population and commerce, and contains from eight to ten thousand inhabitants--being nearly one fourth as large as San Francisco.  It bears to San Francisco much the same relation that Columbia does to Charleston, or Albany to New York.  From two to six steamboats daily ply between the two cities, conveying passengers and merchandise; and a vast deal of heavy freight is shipped in sailing vessels, which usually make the outward and return trip in a little over a week.  The banks of the river are very low, and the current moves sluggishly towards the ocean.  Flood-tide ascends almost as high as this place.  The country, for twenty-five miles on either side of the river, is an unbroken plain, level as a floor, and would be invaluable for agricultural purposes were it not for the great freshets of the winter and spring, and the incessant drought of the summer and fall--two serious disadvantages <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The site of the city, so smooth and flat, would be one of the most beautiful in the world, but for the lack of sufficient elevation.  For the first two or three years after its settlement the inhabitants did nothing to protect it from the floods, but afterwards, becoming tired of navigating the streets in scows and skiffs, and willing to retain some of their goods and chattels about their premises, they built a temporary levee, which has since kept them tolerably dry.  It is laid out with the most perfect regularity; its blocks and streets being as uniform and methodical as the squares of a chess-board.  Those streets which run from north to south have alphabetical names, beginning with A, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>At present the legislature meets in this place; but as that august body is possessed of a remarkably roving dispostion, having held its sessions at four different places within the last four years, at an extra expense to the State of nearly two hundred thousand dollars, it is yet uncertain whether this will be determined upon as the permanent capital.  There is no capitol or state-house, nor is it likely that California will ever be able to build one while its finances are so recklessly managed.  The receipts and expenditures of the State have, from the organization of its government to the present time, been intrusted to men who, to say nothing of their dishonesty, were as ignorant of the uses of money as a prodigal minor.  Consequently they have entailed a public debt upon the people of more than three millions of dollars without effecting any general improvements excepting a marine hospital.  This distinguished body, which now holds its deliberations in the court-house, contains some of the most precious scamps that ever paid devotion to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Thus must a man discipline himself before he can receive the support and patronage of the public.  It matters not what his occupation may be, whether merchant, mechanic, lawyer or doctor, he is sure to be ostracized, if the stands aloof from the vices and follies of the populace.  Of course there are a few exceptions.  Some men, thank heaven, have an innate abhorrence of every thing that savors of meanness or vulgarity, and they have nerve enough to cling to their principles at all times and in all places.  No earthly power, even if backed by reinforcements from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Leaving these wire-pulling senators and hireling assemblymen, let us take a short stroll <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>As we wend our way through the town, we pass dozens of miserable, filthy little hotels, in any of which we can procure a bad meal for a dollar.  A palatable dinner in one of the more respectable hotels will cost us twice that amount.  We shall be considerably amused at the queer and unique canvas signs nailed over the doors of some of the dirty little huts and shanties around us.  One of the taverns announces that it has "Tip-top Accommodations for Man and Beast;" at another we can find "Good Fare, and Plenty of it;" a third promises "Rest for the Weary and Storage for Trunks;" a fourth invites us to "Come in the Inn, and take a Bite;" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>More than two-thirds of the population of the northern part of the State lay in their supplies of provisions, clothing and mining implements at this place; and we shall notice several teams and pack-trains in the streets, loading and preparing to start on their journey.  Mules and oxen are chiefly used, though for hauling short distances over good roads horses are employed.  Some of the more remote mining districts, say two hundred miles from this place, are so rugged and mountainous that it is impossible to reach them with wagons or other vehicles, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Between the petty merchants who sell goods to those teamsters and muleteers, there is great rivalry and competition.  I call them petty merchants because there are so many more of them than the business justifies or demands, that each one secures but a small share of the custom; and they have to resort to the most contemptible devices to pay current expenses.  Indeed I do not believe half of them earn their support.  The reader may think this strange, and wonder why men continue in an occupation which does not yield them a maintenance.  They do not continue in it; their losses soon compel them to leave; but the departure of one victim only opens the way for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>One reason why there is such an excess of business men, is, because American and European strangers, who have been led into the mistaken opinion that trading is profitable in California, are continually arriving with heavy stocks of goods, and opening new shops or going into the old ones, just vacated by those who could no longer sustain themselves under the pressure of the times.  In this way the humbug is eternally nourished.  As soon as one simpleton sacrifices <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:his effects and retires, "a sadder and wiser man," another fool steps in and takes his place.  Question the New York, Baltimore and Boston shippers concerning the result of their ventures, and they will tell a doleful story.  Ask the Liverpool, Bordeaux and Hamburg consignors to show the account sales of their factors, and they will anathematize the inquirer and California in the same breath.  Now and then, it is true, when the markets are low, as they sometimes are, a shipment turns out lucrative beyond anticipation; but when such a thing occurs it is a mere matter of chance, and one gainful shipment occasions scores of unprofitable ones.  Dependent as the State is upon importations for all that she consumes or requires for use, it must be expected that the markets will be very fluctuating and changeable,--at any rate, it is so.  The price of any article does not remain the same two weeks at a time.  There is almost always a superfluity of merchandise in market; the supply is generally double the demand, and many things are sold at less than prime cost.  Yet, by the time this merchandise falls into the hands of the actual consumer, it usually costs him from one to four hundred per cent. more than he would have to pay for it in the Atlantic States.  The consignee will probably sell it to a speculator--the speculator to a wholesale merchant--the wholesale merchant to a jobber--the jobber to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>I might cite instances of the perfidy and dishonesty of California merchants; but it would be like taking an inventory of the exact number of blades of grass in a meadow in order to get at the weeds by subtraction,--it would be easier to reverse the task.  It would require less time to tell of those who have been true to their trusts.  I know one man in San Francisco who received a consignment of nearly twelve thousand dollars worth of merchandise from his brother in New York.  He placed it in an auction house--had it sold for what it would bring--appropriated the proceeds to his own use, and wrote back to his brother that all the goods had been destroyed by fire.  His brother heard of his unfaithfulness, came on to San Francisco and reasoned with him; but could neither bring him to terms nor find law that would compel the performance of a common obligation.  The defrauded brother returned home without recovering a cent of his dues.  Another New Yorker consigned twenty thousand dollars worth of merchandise to two different commission houses (ten thousand to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>But why detail these swindling transactions?  Volumes upon volumesmight be filled with accounts of the crimes and short-comings of this wretched country; but their perusal would only be productive of abhorrence and disgust.  If, reader, you would know California, you must go live there.  It is impossible for me to give, or for you to receive a correct impression of it on paper,--like Thomas, the unbelieving disciple, you must <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
075.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">feel</HI>
075.sgm:<P>On the night of the 2d of November, 1852, Sacramento was almost entirely destroyed by fire.  Twenty-two hundred buildings, with other property, valued at ten millions of dollars, were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:completely reduced to ashes.  The wind was blowing very hard at the time the fire commenced, and the roaring of the flames, the rapidity with which they spread, the explosions of gunpowder, as house after house was blown up, formed a scene rarely excelled in terrific grandeur.  Men, women and children ran to and fro in the greatest confusion, excited almost to frenzy, in the effort to save their lives and effects.  Within six hours after the fire first broke out, more than nine-tenths of the city were swept into oblivion, and the people were left to sleep on the naked earth without any shelter but the clothing they had on.  Happening, too, just at the commencement of the rainy season, this conflagration was peculiarly disastrous, as thousands were deprived not only of shelter, but also of the means of securing a comfortable living.  Provisions at the time were scarcer than I ever knew them before, or have known them since; and the extraordinarily high prices which they commanded almost precluded the poorer classes from buying or using them at all.  Flour sold at forty-two dollars per barrel, pork at fifty-five, and other eatables in about the same ratio.  Farther in the interior the times were still harder.  In some of the distant mining localities flour and pork sold as high as three dollars per pound--equal to five hundred and eighty-eight dollars per barrel; and could not be had in sufficient quantities even at these rates.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>A California conflagration is a scene of the most awful grandeur that the mind is capable of conceiving.  When fire is once communicated to the buildings, especially if it be in the dry season, when the winds rage and every thing is crisped by the sun, it does not smoulder, but blazing high in the air, and spreading far and wide, it consumes every thing within its reach, and leaves nothing behind but cinders and desolation.  No one of the present day, out of California, has ever seen such pyramids of flame.  One of the most beautiful sights I ever beheld was during a large fire in San Francisco.  It was a moonless night, and there was nothing visible in the dark concave of heaven, save a few twinkling stars.  Others were concealed by the detached masses of floating vapor which obscured them.  Soon after the conflagration commenced, the brilliant illimination attracted large flocks of brant from the neighboring marshes; and as they flew hither and thither, high over the flaming element, they shone and glistened as if they had been winged balls of fire darting through the air.  Had their plumage been burnished gold, they could not have been more radiant.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Before taking our final leave of Sacramento, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>When his wife goes out shopping he gives her fifty cents, and if she happens to bring back onetenth of the amount, he takes it from her and locks it up in his safe.  When he travels on a steamboat he always takes deck passage, and carries food in his pockets to avoid the extra expense of dining at the table.  While passing throughthe streets he keeps a vigilant lookout for stray nails, old horse-shoes, pieces of bagging and other refuse, which he picks up, lugs home and deposits in his repository of odds and ends.  Instead of chairs, he sits on stools and boxes of his own make; and, in place of coffee, he drinks parched barley tea or watered milk.  His disposition is quite as sweet as wormwood, and his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>YUBA--THE MINER'S TENT.</P>
075.sgm:<P>MY first experience in mining was obtained on the banks of the Yuba river, a small tributary of the Feather, which is itself a branch of the Sacramento.  Our party, in a stage-coach, left Sacramento city early in the morning; we traveled due north until late in the afternoon, when we arrived at Marysville, a city containing eight or nine thousand inhabitants, and situated at the confluence of the Yuba and Feather rivers.  It was in July, and the roads were four to six inches deep in dust, which seemed to be as fine as bolted flour, and was so volatile that it rose in a dense cloud as we passed through it.  The heat of the sun was oppressive in the extreme, and by the time we got to the place mentioned above, our persons were so besmeared with dust and derspiration that it was no easy matter for a stranger to determine our natural color.</P>
075.sgm:<P>I could have made the trip by water, as there is steamboat communication between Sacramento and Marysville daily; but having sailed up the river as high as this place once before on a pleasure excursion, I preferred the land route for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>By means of the same conveyance that carried us to Marysville, we resumed our northern journey early in the morning of the succeeding day, and by twelve o'clock we reached the place of our destination.  We were now on Long Bar, a popular mining place, divided and watered by the Yuba.  Two miles beyond is Park's Bar, which I had visited on a previous occasion; but this was the first time I had ever entered the mines for the purpose of digging gold.  Now, however, I had come to try my luck, and to see what the gnomes and fairies would do for me.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Once fairly started in a miner's life, I could not completely steel myself against the extravagant hopes which seemed to float in the very atmosphere of the mines.  Wild and extravagant fancies would in spite of me obtrude themselves upon what I thought a well-balanced mind.  Nor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>I had supplied myself with abundance of provisions, a pair of good blankets, and every needful mining implement.  Being in what is called surface diggings, that is, on a spot where the gold lies near the surface of the earth, I could perform all the necessary manipulations myself.  I noticed that those around did not delve deeper than from three to four feet in this place.  It did not pay to go lower; and whether it paid to dig at all, will be seen hereafter.  My implements consisted of a pick, a spade, a pan, a bucket, a cradle and a wheelbarrow.  The <HI REND="italics">cradle</HI>
075.sgm:, though rudely made and of rude material, was a very good one, and I have since regretted that I did not keep it and bring it with me, as it would have answered a domestic purpose quite as well as a more costly one.  The modus operandi of single-handed mining may be described in a few words.  The earth is loosened with the pick, thrown into the wheelbarrow with the spade, rolled to the river, emptied into the cradle, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Fearing that I might make a fortune immediately, and return to the city without learning how the gold gleaners live, I determined not to commence operations until I had scrutinized the whole bar, tents, miners, mining and all.  Indeed it was necessary for me to converse with some of the miners, in order to acquaint myself with their laws respecting claims, dams and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Every Bar is governed by such laws as the majority of the miners see fit to enact, not by written or published documents, but by verbal understanding.  All the mines are public property, that is, they belong to the United States government, which, in its suicidal liberality, exercises comparatively no jurisdiction over them.  So far as the general government is concerned, Chinese marauders and foreign cut-throats have the same rights and privileges guaranteed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Almost every Bar is governed by a different code of laws, and the sizes of the claims vary according to locality.  In one place a man may hold twice, thrice, or even quadruple the number of feet that are allowed him in another.  One fourth of an acre is an average-sized claim.  The discoverer of new diggings is awarded a double or triple share, or only an equal part, as a majority of those on the ground shall determine.  Two claims cannot be held by one person at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Drones and sluggards--things in the shape of men, who are too lazy to work for an honest living--are the chief authors of the horrible crimes that have rendered this country so odious and despicable.  They are the persons who are always creating disturbances; cheating, robbing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>While reconnoitering the bar, I made excuses to call on several miners who happened to be in their tents.  As for the tents themselves, though nearly all of the same size, they differ very much in appearance and quality.  A great many are made of duck or white canvas; while others are built of stunted saplings, which grow sparsely throughout the mining region.  Those constructed of the latter material are about the size and shape of a common hog-pen, with a stick and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The interior of the miner's tent corresponds to its exterior.  Spread upon the ground, on one side, we see a pair of rumpled blankets, upon which he sleeps.  They are thoroughly saturated with mud and dust, and have never been shaken, switched nor sunned since their place was assigned them.  Scattered here and there, about the edges of the blankets, lie several of Paul de Kock's and Eugene Sue's yellow-backed novels, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>His cooking utensils consist of a frying-pan and a pot, neither of which, except in rare instances, is ever washed.  The pot is mostly used for boiling pork and beans, and the old scum and scales that accumulate on the inside from one ebullition serve as seasoning to the next.  Pork and beans are two of the principal articles of diet with miners, partly because they are comparatively cheaper than other provisions, and partly on account of their being so nutritious and wholesome.  The beans, especially, are very fine; they are imported from Chili, and are superior to any I ever saw in the Atlantic States.  By boiling as much at one time as the pot will hold, the miner generally saves himself the trouble of preparing these articles of food oftener <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>It is but seldom that the miner suspends labor on Sunday if his claim is a rich one; but if it is poor, he usually lets it rest on that day, while he does his washing and mending.  I have already said that he carries his bowie-knife and revolver with him day and night.  There is scarcely an exception to this rule; ninety-nine out of every hundred are thus armed, and this accounts for the fatal result of almost every altercation.  No matter what it is that occasions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Having surveyed and examined the bar, and all that pertained to it, to my satisfaction, I constructed a small canvas tent, and the next day began to search the earth in quest of gold.  Though I was not reared in idleness, this was my first lesson in real hard labor.  Here, in the summer season, the thermometer ranging from 90 to 105 degrees of Fahrenheit in the shade, mining, when diligently and assiduously prosecuted, is certainly the most toilsome employment in the world.  I imagine that the tillage of sugar-fields is pastime compared with it, and that the African slaves who gather coffee in Brazil, have no adequate conception of hardwork.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>For three months I applied myself to my tools and claim with all the energy of my nature--digging, shoveling and rocking, with the snarls of grizzly bears to lull me to sleep at night, and the howls of hungry wolves to regale my ears at the break of day.  With all this wear and tear of body and mind, my account-current of proceeds and expenditures stood, at the expiration of that time, giving myself no credit for either loss of time or physical exhaustion, just ninety-three and three-quarter cents--balance on hand!  This was building a palace with a vengeance!  A net profit of ninety-three and a quarter cents in three months, being "two and six-pence" per month, or a fraction over a cent a day.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Hope, however, did not forsake me, and besides that, (shall I confess it?) I felt a sort of malignant satisfaction that I was not alone in my disappointments.  I found consolation in the misfortune of others!  When I looked around me, and saw scores of dirty, hungry, ragged, longhaired miners, who had toiled and labored like plantation negroes, on this and other bars, for more than two years, and who could not command as much as five dollars to save their lives, it buoyed me up, and made me better satisfied with my own ill-luck.  The feeling that thus manifested itself may have been worthy of censure, but I am sure it was natural, for no energetic or enterprising man likes to see his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The time had now come, however, for other thoughts and considerations.  A change of location seemed to be necessary.  The profits of mining did not warrant longer continuance at this place.  It occurred to me that the sum of ninety-three and three-quarter cents was but indifferent remuneration for three months' herculean labor.  I wished to have nothing to do with this lying equivalent, so handing it over, with my compliments, to a poor, needy, hungry-looking neighbor, I shook the dust from my feet and departed, after the manner of Lot when he left Sodom, not deigning to look behind--not for fear, however, of being turned into a pillar of gold.</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>STOCKTON AND SONORA.</P>
075.sgm:<P>I HAVE perambulated the streets of San Francisco, Sacramento, Marysville and Stockton; but of all the California cities, after San Francisco, Stockton is my choice.  It is named in honor of Commodore R. F. Stockton, and is situated on a tributary of the San Joaquin river, which empties into the Suisun Bay, opening into the Bay of San Francisco.  Being but a little over one hundred miles to the east of San Francisco, it enjoys the advantages of daily steamboat communication with that place; but owing to the narrow banks of the stream and the shallowness of the water, the vessels are much smaller than those employed upon the Sacramento.  It contains from six to seven thousand inhabitants.  Though only the fourth city in the State in population, it is the third in business.  All the residents of the southern mines draw their supplies from it; and as it is blessed with a mild climate, it is frequently resorted to by those who seek pastime or recreation.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The San Joaquin valley, in the midst of which this city is situated, would probably be the best <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>This valley affords another evidence of the unfavorable condition of the country.  It shows conclusively that even the most valuable parts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>We shall find but few things deserving attention in the city of Stockton, having already examined its archetypes, San Francisco and Sacramento.  It is due to this place to remark that, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Sonora is an inland town, situated in the midst of one of the richest mineral regions in the southern part of the State.  A stage-coach affords the most convenient and expeditious means of reaching this place, which lies about fifty miles to the south-east.  Starting early in the morning, we travel as fast as a dare-devil driver can make four horses convey us--frequently meeting and overtaking numerous pack trains, pedestrians and ox-teams, passing to and fro between the mines and Stockton.  A part of the country over which our road leads us, is a somewhat elevated plain, which, being entirely destitute of trees and other vegetable products, presents a most dreary and uninviting prospect.  We see nothing around us but the naked earth.  There is no accommodation for either bird or beast--no resting-place for the one, nor food for the other. The pack-trains, pedestrians and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>It is a fact worthy of being here recorded, as illustrative of the success of the miners, that we shall observe a larger number returning on foot than we find going.  I was amused one day, while on my way to the regions of hidden treasure, when meeting a ragged, hairy, Esau-looking pedestrian, he hailed me with "Hallo."  "How are you?" answered I.  "Which way?" asked he.  "To the mines," replied I.  "Well, my friend," said he, "you will excuse me for speaking plainly; this is a free country and I presume you are at liberty to go to the mines or to the d--1, just as you please; but, mark my words, if you are going to the mines to dig, I'll be d--d if you don't rue the act."  "May-be not," remarked I.  "Very well," he added, "you'll see.  By the time you delve and toil two long years, under the broiling sun as I have done, and have seen others do, without making a decent living, you'll perceive the truth of what I tell you."</P>
075.sgm:<P>Steadily pursuing our course, about twelve o'clock we came to the Stanislaus River, a small tributary stream of the San Joaquin.  Here we stop to change horses and get dinner, there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Having appeased our appetites and secured the services of a fresh team, we cross the river and resume our journey.  As we advance towards the place of our destination, the face of the country changes, from level plains to rugged slopes and woodlands.  In the forenoon our road, though disagreeably dusty, was both smooth and straight, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Arriving in Sonora between sundown and dark, we repair to a public house, and bespeak supper and lodgings for the night.  The best hotel in the place is a one-story structure, built of unhewn saplings, covered with canvas and floored with dirt.  It consists of one undivided room, in which the tables, berths and benches are all arranged.  Here we sleep, eat and drink.  Four or five tiers of berths or bunks, one directly above another, are built against the walls of the cabin, by means of upright posts and cross-pieces, fastened with thongs of raw-hide.  The bedding is composed of a small straw mattress about two feet wide, an uncased pillow stuffed with the same material, and a single blanket.  When we creep into one of these nests, it is optional with us whether we unboot or uncoat ourselves; but it would be looked upon as an act of ill-breeding, even in California, to go to bed with one's hat on.  Having once resigned ourselves into the arms of Morpheus, we are not likely to be disturbed by the drunken yells and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>No matter what kinds or qualities of viands are set before us, so that there be sufficient, for our stomachs have become so well tempered by this time that we feast upon them with as much gusto as if we were dining in a French restaurant.  Neither spices, sauces nor seasonings are necessary to accommodate them to the palate.  Our appetites need no nursing.  Honest hunger <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Our fast is broken--we are satisfied.  The proprieter of the hotel, with his two male assistants, begins to clear off the table.  Women have no hand in these domestic affairs.  There is not a female about the establishment.  All the guests, owners and employees are men.  The dishes are washed, the blankets straightened in the berths; and while the cook is preparing dinner, some of the tavern-loungers seat themselves around the table, to take a friendly game of euchre, whist, seven-up, laugh-and-lay-down, old-maid, commerce or matrimony, while others saunter off to the gambling houses, of which there are about half a dozen in the place, to play at roulette, monte, faro, poker, twenty-one, all-fours or lansquenet.  Such is hotel life in California, especially in the country towns and throughout the mining region.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Frequently several of the guests are fuddled, and as there are no partitions or apartments in the building, by which one person or set of persons may be separated from another, they are a most prolific source of annoyance to their sober neighbors.  I recollect one occasion particularly, when, fatigued by a long day's journey, I stopped at one of these mountain taverns in the hope of enjoying a comfortable night's rest.  Soon after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:eating my supper, which consisted of the standard dish, pork and beans, I crept into one of the farthest bunks, annoyed by the blackguardism and segar fumes of a group of drunken cardplayers, who occupied a table near the centre of the room.  These swaggering inebriates, noisy as they were, did not prevent me from sleeping, as I had become habituated to witnessing such nocturnal carousals; but towards midnight, in came a wild, blustering lunatic, who had lost his reason about a week before, yelling and screaming as if a legion of fiends were after him. He was bare-footed, bare-headed and bare-legged, having no clothing upon his person, except a shirt; and I understood afterwards that he had been roaming about the place four or five days and nights in this condition.  Making some inquiry concerning his history, I learned that he was a lawyer by profession, that he had formerly figured as an able and influential member of the Maine Legislature, and that, becoming embarrassed in his financial affairs, he left his family and emigrated hither in the hope of retrieving his fortune. Shortly after his arrival, not finding employment for his talent as a counselor, he determined to seek the favor of the mines; but his efforts in that quarter proved unavailing.  For nearly a year he had toiled vigorously and incessantly, but to no purpose.  He could not discover the hidden treasure which he sought.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>To give a faint idea of the precocity and waywardness of youth in this country, I will relate a bloody incident which occurred at another hotel, where I had put up for a night's lodging.  In this case the landlord, a short, lean Massachusetts Yankee, was married and had his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Supper was now over, and the tables were surrounded with players. Little Ned had his place amongst them.  I watched him more than an hour.  He handled the cards with so much grace, skill and agility, and seemed to be so perfectly familiar with every branch of the game, that I could not withhold my admiration.  As the night advanced, the parties became involved in a quarrel.  Some one accused Ned of unfairness in changing the position of certain cards.  Violent oaths and maledictions followed this accusation.  Inflamed with anger, and assuming a menacing attitude, Ned denounced his accuser (a full grown <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Finally, however, Ned's friends took upon themselves all the responsibility of his behaviour, and the war of loud invectives and imprecations was now waged more by the adherents of the original disputants than by those disputants themselves.  The bandying of gross epithets attracted the attention of a large crowd.  Serious consequences were apprehended.  The occasion was pregnant with mischief.  One of the desperadoes jerked a bowie-knife from his pocket, and was about to plunge it into the body of his antagonist, when another drew a revolver and shot him.  A few struggles--a few groans, and the fallen man had ceased to live.  But the injury was not confined to him alone.  As the ball passed through the breast of the man at whom it was aimed, it lodged in the shoulder of an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The truth is, there is no attention paid to the moral, mental or physical discipline of youth in this country.  They are left to their own will and inclination, to grow up, like the plants and weeds in a neglected garden, without culture or training.  Surrounded as they are with so many examples of depravity, what sort of men and women are they likely to be?  It is probable that the world has never reared such a horde of accomplished scamps and vagabonds, male and female, as will soon emerge from the adolescent population of the Eureka State.  The signs of the times warrant this conclusion.  How can it be otherwise when they are familiar with every vice, and strangers to every virtue?  It matters not how strict or careful the parents themselves may be, it is impossible for them to shield their children from the baneful influences of the neighborhood; and a man might as well think of raising a healthy and stalwart family in the midst of a malarious swamp, as to think of rearing decent sons and daughters in California.  The boys persuade themselves that they are men before they are half matured; and their superiors are either too little concerned about it, or too deeply engrossed in business to teach them better.  As a consequence of this precocious manliness, they give themselves up to all the pernicious habits and indulgences of older reprobates.</P>
075.sgm:<P>A few words now in regard to this town of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Before it was ascertained which were the natural or most suitable and convenient parts of the State for city sites and trading posts, there was a wonderful deal of finesse practiced by a set of land-speculators.  Scattering themselves over the country, they laid claim to certain eligible plats, which, according to their stories, Nature had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Many persons had confidence in these projects, and made investments in them.  Besides several individual cases of which I might speak, I am acquainted with a company of men who laid out more than one hundred and fifty thousand dollars in this questionable species of property;--to-day their investment is not worth two cents on the dollar.  It was perfectly amusing sometimes to witness the working of these bastard enterprises.  The authors and agents of the plan, having their topographic charts and every thing in readiness, would bustle about among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The Americans were the principal operators in these speculative movements; but I know several Germans, who, though proverbially cautious in the matter of dollars and cents, were likewise drawn into them.  In one particular case, two worthy representatives of the <HI REND="italics">Faderland</HI>
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075.sgm:<P>I have alluded, parenthetically, to the excitability of the Californians.  This is a remarkable trait in their character.  The least thing of unusual occurrence fires their fancy and sets them in motion.  If a terrier catches a rat, or if a big turnip is brought to market, the people cluster together and scramble for a sight with as much eagerness and impetuosity as a party of children would scramble after a handful of sweetmeats.  If, in these hasty gatherings, one man happens to tread on the toes of another, it only requires one minute for the injured party to shoot the offender, two minutes for some body else to stab the shooter, and three minutes for the whole crowd to hang the stabber.</P>
075.sgm:<P>While in and about Sonora, we may have an opportunity of inspecting all the various systems of mining that are carried on in California.  The whole earth, for some distance around, is literally turned upside down, or inside out.  On the left, they are using the common single-hand rocker; on the right, sluicing; and in another place, sinking deep shafts.  We shall here find a great many Mexican miners, who make deep pits and excavations in the hills, and who are generally very successful in their operations.  These delving countrymen of Santa Anna seem to have a peculiar tact for discovering the veins of gold.  But they do not confine themselves much to surface diggings.  They have a greater <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>A part of the preceding chapter was devoted to observations upon the habits of life and personal appearance of the miner; but I neglected to mention his peculiar characteristic or appendage: this is the long hair upon his head and face.  He neither shaves nor shears; he has no use for either razors or scissors.  The tonsorial art is, in his estimation, a most reprehensible and unmanly innovatiion.  Looking upon it as one of the fashionable foibles of society, he disavows all connection with it.  He believes thatNature is not apt to make mistakes, that all things were created about right, that hair was placed upon man's head and face to harmonize with the other organs of his body, that it has its distinct and peculiar offices to perform, and that if it is cut, the whole animal economy will be more or less enervated.  Such is something of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>I confess myself, in fact, a convert to his notions.  To say that the whiskers or the hair should never be trimmed, would be as much as to say that the finger-nails should never be pared; while to say that the beard or the hair should be cut close to the skin, would be the same as saying that the finger-nails should be pulled out by the roots.  If we shave the chin and the cheeks, why not the head, the hands and the arms?  How comes it that hair is less tolerable on the side of the face than on the back of the hand?  The Chinaman shaves his head all over, except a small spot on the crown, about twice the size of a dollar, and we laugh at him for doing so; but may it not be questioned which is the greater object of derision, a bald head or a beardless face?  We are also in the habit of ridiculing young ladies because they lace or compress their waists, but would it not be equally becoming in them to sneer at us for disfiguring our faces?  What would we think of the belles, if they were to get in the habit of wearing false whiskers?  Would we not characterize the introduction of such a fashion as a silly and whimsical innovation?  But is it any more ridiculous or censurable in a woman to make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>That the beard is a protection against sore throats, coughs, colds, asthma, and other ailments, every California miner will be willing to testify.  It is said that the English colliers, who have long suffered from hemorrhage of the lungs, have evaded the disease altogether by discontinuing the use of the razor.  Yet the newspapers inform us that the clerks in the Bank of England are not allowed to wear mustachios, under penalty of dismission.</P>
075.sgm:<P>As I have heretofore remarked, mining in California is one of the most precarious of all occupations.  Yet it is the country's only source of wealth, and if the laborer fails in it, he cannot betake himself to other pursuits.  If he cannot make money by digging, shoveling and rocking, he cannot make it at all.  Now and then, it is true, the miner meets with unanticipated good luck; but when such a thing occurs it is blazoned from Dan to Beersheba, whereas no mention is ever made of the thousands of unfortunate, poverty-stricken dupes, who, though equally industrious and deserving, scarcely defray their expenses.</P>
075.sgm:<P>I may refer to the case of an old man, who, for some time, was engaged in mining operations at this place, and with whom I became acquainted soon after my arrival here.  Sixty years had left their traces upon his face, and his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>We will let this venerable sexagenarian tell his own story.  I indite his own words, as nearly as I recollect them.  Said he, during conversation one evening, after we had both quit work, "Some men would esteem themselves wealthy, if they were worth as much money as I was deprived of by bad legislation in Congress, a while previous to my departure for this country.  Soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:after the enactment of the tariff law of 1842, one of my neighbors and myself invested eighty thousand dollars in the manufacture of iron, in the State of Pennsylvania.  Our business succeeded beyond our expectations; and in order to supply the increasing demands for our products, we found it necessary to employ additional force and capital, build new forges and otherwise enlarge the sphere of our operations.  Every examination of our affairs developed new evidences of prosperity, and our hearts glowed with gratitude to those sterling patriots and sagacious statesmen, Clay, Webster and others, through whose eloquent influence we were then harvesting the fruits of a protective tariff.  But this thriving state of things was not of long continuance.  In 1846 the tariff act of '42 was repealed; and that repeal was the death-blow to our manufacturing interests.  The duty on iron was reduced so low that it was impossible for us to compete with the importations from Europe.  We became embarrassed, made an assignment, and finally, by sacrificing every thing we had in the shape of property, extricated ourselves from all liabilities.  After this stroke of misfortune, having a wife and three daughters, who were partly dependent upon me for support, I concluded to come to California, believing, from the flattering accounts which I had seen published, that money was more easily accumulated here than in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>As the good old man uttered these last words, the tears trickled down his cheeks, and he could say no more.  Had it not been that I disdained to moisten California soil with such precious drops, I believe my eyes would have rained too; for the clouds began to gather about them, and I had to use no little precaution to keep them dry.  It was certainly no sign of a white-livered man, to shed tears in a case of this kind; on the contrary, it was, at least in my opinion, a mark of goodness; and my estimation of the old gentleman was heightened, on account of the tender <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA VIA CAPE HORN.</P>
075.sgm:<P>AMONG our readers there may be some who are contemplating a trip to California, and may be hesitating between the two routes commonly traveled.  For their sakes, I have violated the chronological order of my adventures, that I might introduce a description of the outward and return trip, in immediate juxtaposition for the greater convenience of comparison.</P>
075.sgm:<P>From the pier of Wall street, New York, on Friday, January 31st, seven passengers, myself amongst the number, embarked for San Francisco, on board the clipper ship Stag-Hound, under command of Capt. Josiah Richardson.  The wind blowing from the north-east afforded us a favorable opportunity for standing out from land; of this, however, we did not avail ourselves until about 4 o'clock in the afternoon; for, although our vessel was towed out early in the morning, and every thing seemed to be in readiness for our final departure, yet, through some unavoidable delay, we were obliged to cast anchor off Staten Island, where it became necessary for us to remain until the time above <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>It was truly a magnificent sight, as we headed off so smoothly and so majestically from the shore, and made our way out farther and farther upon the dark blue deep; we spent the greater part of the evening promenading the quarter-deck, and admiring the enchanting scene.  But our reverie and conversation were not altogether undisturbed by melancholy thought.  We had just started upon a long, uncertain and monotonous voyage.  Old associations had been broken up.  We had bid adieu to our native homes, our nearest relations and dearest friends, probably for three or four years--possibly for ever.  All before us then was an unknown world--an untrodden path, and phantom-faces of doubt and fear would loom up from the obscurity of the future.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The next morning I began to feel symptoms of that most intolerable of all sensations, seasickness.  Of this malady I had some little experience once before, while on my way from Philadelphia to New York via Cape May; but I never entertained the least idea that it was half so depressing as I now found it.  For three weeks and more I could scarcely eat a mouthful.  It really seemed to me at times that eating was the most abominable occupation men could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The monotony of our daily life was without variety for the next four or five days.  The wind had been somewhat favorable, and we were making good progress until the evening of the fifth day, when suddenly the wind changed and we shortly after found ourselves in the midst of as nice a hurricane as ever sunk a ship or leveled a forest.  The wind howled and shrieked in such a manner that I could compare it with nothing earthly; the sea, too, had assumed, by this time, a most formidable appearance; the rain was falling in perfect torrents--the lightning flashed incessantly, and such deafening thunder-peals mortal man never heard before.  It appeared as if the elements, for the last five days or so, had been nursing their wrath for this particular occasion, and were determined that we, poor devils of passengers, should be made thoroughly acquainted with the comforts of a crowded ship in a tornado at sea.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The poor affrighted passengers (myself among the rest) despaired of the ship long before the severest part of the tempest was felt, and prayers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:and promises were offered up without stint for our salvation, by many that never prayed before and I suppose have never done so since.  When morning dawned it seemed as if the fury of the storm increased--sea and sky were apparently as one; every thing, and every body appeared helpless, hopeless, panic-stricken.  Most of our canvas had been taken in or closely furled, yet the ship dashed along with the speed of a race-horse.  Things that were not well secured rolled about in the greatest disorder and confusion.  The heavy seas which she had already shipped, and the still heavier ones she was then shipping, increased, if possible, the consternation inspired by the awful scene.  In fact, things began to wear such a threatening aspect, that a speedy change of some sort was looked forward to with the greatest anxiety, not only by the passengers, but by the captain and crew, when, to complete our terrors, topgallant-masts, royals, and main-top-mast, with their appendages, came down with a crash that was heard above the howling of the storm.  By this time the day had been spent, and night considerably advanced,--with fear and trembling we retired to our state-rooms, doubting whether we should ever be permitted to see the light of another day.  For myself, I suppose I was quite as indifferent about the matter as any one else; for, when a person gets to be as much under the influence of nausea as I was at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The loss of our masts, in this severe gale, at once threw a damper on our high hopes of a quick passage; but, fortunately for us, we had extra masts on board; and, through the indefatigable exertions and perseverance of our vigilant captain, we succeeded in getting all the wreck cleared away and jury-masts rigged.  The shattered timbers and torn sails opened an unusually large field of labor for our carpenter and sail-maker.  We kept on our course, which had been very nearly south-east ever since we started, until we passed the Cape Verde Islands, about four degrees to the west, when we steered due south, and crossed the equator between twenty-nine and thirty degrees west longitude.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The next interesting event that happened to us occurred off the coast of Brazil, in latitude 22&deg; 25'--longitude 38&deg; 29', Sunday, March 2d.  It was about six o'clock in the morning, and I had just left my state-room and gone on deck to take a bath, when a sailor by my side, pointing over the starboard bow, cried out, "Boat ahoy!  boat ahoy!  with men in it."  In an instant, as if by electricity, the news was conveyed to every ear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>A rope was thrown to them and they were all able to pull themselves on board by it, except one, whom we afterwards ascertained to be their captain,--he, poor fellow, was so much exhausted that he could not help himself, and we were obliged to hoist him in.  Their story was the next thing to be learned; for, as yet, not a word <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>They had been out three days and nights in this condition, with nothing to eat or drink, save the legs of their captain's boots, which they said they had been chewing to sustain life.  Exposed as they were to the burning rays of a tropical sun, without any thing to eat or drink, it is not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>About three o'clock in the afternoon of the same day, a little circumstance came under my observation, which, though it may seem quite a trivial affair in the eyes of many, may nevertheless serve to illustrate in some degree the barbarity of man and his utter indifference in regard to the lives of inferior animals.  The subject of the incident was a small land bird, very much resembling our hedge sparrow, which was discovered resting upon one of the larboard main braces.  A gust or blast of wind had probably driven it out to sea, and it could not find its way back to the shore.  It was so weak that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Keeping along down the South American coast, we passed between Patagonia and the Falkland Islands; and on the morning of the 21st of March were within twenty miles of Staten Land.  This was the first land we had seen since leaving home, and we feasted our eyes upon it, until our ship bore us so far distant that it had dwindled down to a mere speck.  When we were near enough to Staten Land, I could see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Up to this time we had been congratulating ourselves upon the auspicious season in which we had happened to reach the Cape, and upon the quick run we were going to make around it.  Delightful weather and favorable winds had cheered us since leaving the latitude of the La Plata river, and we were in high hopes that we had just hit upon the right time to sail safely round the dangerous Cape in one or two days, instead of being kept there six or eight weeks, as is sometimes the case.  But we were doomed to sad disappointment.  Towards night that terror of all navigators, a downright Cape Horn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>While in the neighborhood of the Cape, we saw great numbers of the albatross, gull, petrel, and other birds; by means of a fish-hook tied to the end of a long line, and baited with a piece of fat bacon, which we let out some eight or ten rods from the stern of the vessel, we caught several of a species which the sailors called the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>It seems that the Atlantic and Pacific oceans are ever at war with each other off Cape Horn, where their waters are continually coming into mad collision, as if no friendship existed between them.  But we will now bid adieu to this aquatic battle field, this bleak, dreary region of storms and hurricanes, and look forward to a more congenial clime.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Finding our water was now beginning to give out, and that we should have to procure a fresh supply before we could reach San Francisco, we bent our course towards Valparaiso, upon the coast of Chili, south of the city and harbor to which we were then bound; and as we passed along up the shore, we had a most magnificent view, not only of its own long range of barren hills, but also of the lofty and towering heights of the Andes at the distance of one hundred and forty-five miles in the interior.  To add to the grandeur of this spectacle on land, another now presented itself on the ocean around us, in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>We had scarcely dropped our anchor in the harbor of Valparaiso before we were surrounded with little boats filled with natives and foreigners, who had come out, as they said, to talk with us and to see our ship.  From these men we learned that four days previously a severe earthquake had been felt, and that all the houses in the city had been more or less injured--a part of city completely destroyed, and some few persons killed.  It was also reported by some of them, that it had laid a great portion of Santiago, the capital, in ruins; but, as yet, no definite news had been received from any of the inland cities or towns; and it was not positively ascertained what amount of damage had been sustained in any place, save only here.  Late that evening, about half an hour before sundown, we passengers made our entrance into the city; but it was then too late in the day to see or learn any thing of interest, so we returned directly to our own quarters aboard the ship, and waited in suspense for the coming morn.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Immediately after an early breakfast, Wednesday morning, we put off in a small boat for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Scarcely had we been in the city half an hour that morning, when I stepped into a barbershop to have the superfluous hair removed from my head and face.  While in the very act of shaving me, the barber very suddenly sprang aghast from me towards the door; and the first thing I knew, the whole earth, houses and every thing around me, were quivering in the most terrific manner; but, fortunately for the timid, helpless creatures, the vacillation continued but a few seconds, and no very serious consequences resulted from it.  Just at the moment the rumbling and quaking commenced, I could not for my life think what it was; but the barber seemed to understand it immediately, for he had been the unwilling spectator of a much more destructive earthquake only five days before; and consequently, he knew well enough what the matter was.  On retiring from the shop, just as I entered the street, a similar shock was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Both of these tremors were slight, and neither did much mischief. But the one that occurred four days previous to our arrival came very near laying the whole city in ruins.  The custom house, churches, stores, and nearly all the principal buildings were cracked so badly that many of them were considered dangerous.  The people were engaged in pulling down some entirely, and repairing others as best they could.  The ground was terribly rent in many places; and while on a stroll beyond the limits of the city, I saw one crevasse which was about five inches in width, and so long and so deep that I could find neither end nor bottom to it.  We remained in Valparaiso till the afternoon of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>As for the city itself, we saw nothing that was really beautiful about it.  The majority of the residences were built of mud and straw, and covered with tiles; and were, I think, upon the whole, rather inferior to the negro huts upon a southern plantation.  The immense sterile hills all round, about, and through the city, presented quite a dreary and desolate appearance, and prevented us from seeing more than half the number of its buildings at the same time.  One of the merchants, a New Orleans man, informed me that the population was estimated at from 60,000 to 65,000.  Speaking of this merchant reminds me of a remarkable instance of stupidity which came under my observation one morning while visiting his store. He had just received fifty barrels of pork, which the drayman had left before his door, and which he wished to have stowed in his cellar.  His regular porter being sick, he hired two doltish countrymen to perform the job.  It was stipulated that they should receive a certain sum of money for removing the pork from the street into the cellar; and the bargain being fairly understood on both sides, they began to fulfil their part of the contract, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:by <HI REND="italics">lifting</HI>
075.sgm:<P>Valparaiso surpasses San Francisco in the abruptness of its surface and the barrenness of its soil.  There is no plant within sight of the town, except here and there in the little vales and hollows.  The inhabitants have to bring all their supplies from beyond the coast range, a distance of nine or ten miles; and as the hills are so large and so steep that they cannot be traversed with vehicles, every thing must be transported upon the backs of mules.  The interior of Chili is represented to be a very beautiful and productive country; and, to use the language of her historian, "all the fruits of the earth grow there in the greatest abundance."  Towards noon that day, we chartered some donkeys and rode out about two miles, to a garden called the Vale of Paradise, in the upper part of the city.  This was one of the most charming spots I ever beheld, and, with the exception of two or three other little places like it, the only level and fertile piece of ground we saw during the whole time we were there.  Here, on the 9th of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>On Thursday, having wandered from my comrades, I began to perambulate the streets alone, determined to see and learn as much of the city as practicable.  At last I found I had wandered very nearly to its northern outskirts, when I came to a little winding path, which I followed up till it led me to the opened gate of a beautiful, palisaded inclosure.  Upon looking in I observed a long, clean, level walk in the midst of the most delectable garden I ever saw.  All the way overhead, from one end of the walk to the other, there were large, luscious clusters of grapes, hanging down in the richest profusion; while on either side there seemed to be an actual rivalry in growth and luxuriance between the various fruits and vegetables.  About half way up the walk, in a well shaded place, two middle-aged men, dressed in long robes, and with books in their hands, were sitting on a bench, reading.  Still I continued to stand at the gate, admiring the fascinating scenery before me, being seen by nobody, and seeing no one myself, except the two gownsmen, whose attention seemed to be wholly absorbed by their books.  To go in I feared would not only be an interruption to the quietude and serenity which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:pervaded those elysian grounds, but also an intrusion upon the privacy of gentlemen whom I had no right to disturb.  However, hoping to frame a reasonable excuse by offering to purchase some fruit, I stepped in, and slowly approaching the literary group, inquired, "Do you speak English?"  Scarcely had the words fallen from my tongue, when the one who sat farthest from me arose, and having replied in the affirmative, extended his hand towards me in a very cordial manner, and then asked me a long question in Latin, not a word of which I understood except the termination, which was "St. Patrick?"  Manifesting by my looks, as well as I could, my ignorance of his ecclesiastical salutation, interrogation, or whatever it was, he immediately dropped his classical lore, and conversed with me freely in English--both of us, in the meantime, promenading up and down the lovely arbor.  From him I learned that the adjoining buildings were occupied as a Roman Catholic college, and that this garden was exclusively for the use and benefit of the priests, of whom he was one, as well as a professor in the institution.  He informed me that it was the largest and most popular college in Chili, and that they had students from nearly all the republics and provinces of the continent.  He himself was a native of Belgium, but had emigrated to South America as a missionary some fifteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>At this place we parted with the wrecked crew we had picked up five weeks before, leaving them in the hands of the Russian consul.  But before bidding a final adieu to the captain, we purchased a gold ring and inclosed it in a sympathizing epistle to his wife, condoling with her in her husband's misfortunes.  When we committed the letter and little keepsake to his charge, he seemed to be very much affected, and acknowledged himself under a thousand obligations to us.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Little occurred on our passage from Valparaiso to San Francisco worthy of note, except the myriads of fish of various kinds which we saw between the tropics, the sublime sunrises and sunsets, the enchanting moonlight evenings, and the phosphorescent phenomena of the ocean at night.  The Pacific far surpasses the Atlantic in beauty and diversity of ocean scenery.  Its gentle gales and placid waves inexpressibly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Six days after leaving Valparaiso we passed within a short distance of the St. Felix Islands, which rise alone out of the world of water.  We could see nothing that had life in it about them, nor any thing that was inviting or pleasing to the eye.  On the morning of the 5th May, we again crossed the equator, in longitude 114&deg;.</P>
075.sgm:<P>This voyage afforded us an excellent opportunity for reading; but it may well be supposed that, in traveling seventeen thousand miles upon the water, we were sometimes overcome with ennui.  As a refuge from this monotony of "life on the ocean wave," we betook ourselves to games of euchre, whist, chess, backgammon and solitaire.  Our ship being very large, perfectly new, beautifully and comfortably finished, and furnished with the very best accommodations, eatables and drinkables, we enjoyed ourselves remarkably well, except while sea-sick, or when dashed and beaten about by ill-bred storms and hurricanes.  As there were only six passengers besides myself, we had abundance of room; and being together so long, and secluded from all other society, we became as sociable and familiar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>We arrived in San Francisco on the 25th of May, having made the passage in one hundred and thirteen days from New York.  This was a very quick run, considering the misfortunes we met with off the Bermudas.  If we had not been dismasted, we would probably have reached our destination twelve or fifteen days earlier.  The Flying Cloud, clipper-modeled, and built almost exactly like the Stag Hound, ran from New York to San Francisco in eighty-nine days, which is the shortest voyage that has yet been made by a sailing vessel between the two ports.  Many of the old-fashioned ships crawl along for seven or eight months; and I know one blunt, tub-like carac which consumed three hundred and seventy days in the passage.</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>VOYAGE FROM CALIFORNIA VIA NICARAGUA.</P>
075.sgm:<P>ABOUT six hundred homeward-bound passengers, myself included, left San Francisco on the 16th of March, in the splendid steamship Cortes, under command of Captain Cropper.  It being our intention to reach the Caribbean sea by the Nicaragua route, we bent our course towards San Juan del Sur.  Wind and wave both favored our movements, and we made rapid progress.  Stray thoughts occupied my mind as my eyes rested for the last time upon the barren hills of California.  There I had witnessed many strange sights and incidents.  Should I ever see them again?  Was it probable that I would stop to renew my acquaintance with them while on my way to Japan and China in 1875, by the great Atlantic and Pacific railway?  My mind, however, was occupied but a little while in the consideration of these matters.  There was before me a country which engendered a brighter train of thoughts than that which I was leaving behind.  I began to think of greeting the good old folks at home; of joining long-parted hands, and of roaming over the glades and glens which first supported my tottering steps.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>Our gallant ship continued to glide bravely on towards the place of her destination.  Neither accident nor rough weather happened to us, and we should have enjoyed ourselves finely if there had not been so many persons on board.  The crowd was too large for a pleasure party at sea.  There were too many mouths to feed, too many berths to adjust, and too many complaints to be heard.  Somebody was always in the way of somebody else.  We were too much pent up.  There was an abundance of room all around us, above and below us; but it was not adapted to our purposes.  The Cortez was our only foothold; and it was necessary that we should cling to her as the only means of reaching terra firma.</P>
075.sgm:<P>But I imagine those of us who had state-rooms on the cabin-deck would not have felt any disposition to murmur, if we had known how much better we fared than the other passengers.  Only about one hundred and fifty enjoyed this advantage; all the others were huddled together in the steerage.  Is it reasonable to suppose that any considerable number of these four hundred and fifty persons would have engaged such uncomfortable and unwholesome passage, if they could have done better?  No.  They could scarcely have been hired to pass through the torrid zone in the steerage, if they had possessed money enough to pay for a cabin-passage.  It is a well-known fact that the steamers bring a much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>There was quite a medley of characters in the cabin.  Bishop Soule, of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, may be placed at the head.  He is a stout, fine-looking old gentleman, about seventy years of age; and I sincerely believe he was the best man aboard the vessel.  He had been stirring up the sinners in California for some time, and was now returning to his home in Georgia.  Next came the Rev. Dr. Boring and three or four other clergymen, one of whom had formerly been a missionary in Brazil.  The Secretary of Utah Territory, a downright jolly fellow, dressed in a suit of buckskin, and who, while on the Isthmus, manifested a most ardent passion for parrots, was also on board.  Besides these, there were eight colonels, seven majors, five captains, three professors, six doctors, ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>On the seventh or eighth day after our departure from San Francisco, one of the passengers, while taking spy-glass observations, espied a motionless object at a great distance on the water--the sea at the time being perfectly calm and smooth.  The spy-glass passed rapidly from hand to hand, and was kept almost constantly leveled towards the object; but nobody could determine what it was.  One man thought it a ship in distress; another inclined to the opinion that it was abandoned altogether; while a third sighingly expressed his conviction that it was the decaying remnant of a melancholy wreck.  The captain, more dispassionate, experienced, and capable of forming a correct judgement, now surveyed it carefully; but it was so far off upon the larboard quarter, that he acknowledged himself unable to give any reliable information concerning it.  What then was to be done?  Should we stifle our curiosity and continue on our course, or should we change and go to the mysterious object?  Some favored one proposition, and some the other.  Considerable betting had been going on as to the number of days we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>After sailing awhile on this new track, we discovered a large flock of longipennate birds flying around the wreck to which we were then bound.  This was an ominous sign.  What were these sea buzzards doing about a disabled vessel, if they were not feeding on the dead bodies of seamen?  But the rapid movement of the Cortez assured us that our curiosity should soon be allayed.  With the aid of the spy-glass we could now view the object distinctly; and on approaching still nearer, we found it was nothing but an old empty scow! and that it was frequented by the fowls of the sea merely because it afforded them a place to rest and to roost.  What a sore disappointment it was, not to find the carcasses of a hundred starved sailors!  A day or two after this, one of the steerage passengers died, an old sail was wrapped around him, two pieces of pig-iron were fastened to his feet, and he was cast overboard.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Early in the morning of the thirteenth day of our pilgrimage upon the water, we arrived at San Juan del Sur, a miserable, good-for-nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>During this novel process of debarkation, I witnessed some most ludicrous scenes.  The Nicaraguans, generally speaking, are much more feeble, dwarfed, and effeminate than the people of the United States.  On an average, I should think that one able-bodied Kentuckian would be equal to four or five of these hybrid denizens of the torrid zone.  It will not, therefore, surprise the reader when I tell him that the small man, while carrying the large one through the water, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Among our passengers were two or three oleaginous men, of Falstaff proportions; one of whom engaged a couple of the stoutest carriers around the yawl to convey him to the shore.  Fixing himself upon their shoulders as well as he could, he signified to them that he was ready, and they made for land; but before they had proceeded half a dozen steps, he weighed them down, and all three fell flat on their backs in the water!  This little mishap created a great deal of merriment; and several others who had just mounted and started, unable to restrain their laughter, leaned back too far to give it vent, and down they tumbled into the water likewise!  It was necessary for the rider, or topmost man, to keep himself in a quiet, perpendicular position; for if he leaned backward, or forward, or sideway, he was sure to throw the carrier off his equilibrium, in which case both of them would fall down together.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The ladies had now arrived from the Cortez, and were ready to disembark.  There was but one way for them to get ashore, and that has already been explained.  They, too, were compelled to straddle the shoulders of the natives; and when fairly mounted, give the signal of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>All the passengers and baggage were now landed, and after a deal of vexation in securing checks and transit tickets, we set forward across the country in the direction of Virgin Bay, a shabby village, situated about fifteen miles distant, on Lake Nicaragua.  We traveled this part of the way on donkeys.  The roads were in pretty fair condition, and a few of the ladies, being well skilled in horsemanship, rode sideways, but the majority of them having but little knowledge of equestrian exercises, rode like men.  This was my first entrance into the dismal glories of a tropical forest.  The trees pressed against each other for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>To give an idea of the weather, I will simply say that, if I intended to become a citizen of Nicaragua, I should advocate the immediate construction of three public works, namely: a government bellows, a state fan, and a great national umbrella!  With the aid of these cooling machines, I should think a person might manage to keep passably comfortable; but without them, the heat is almost intolerable.  In our own country, the people are apt to complain of the hot days which dawn upon them in July and August, but the caloric of the United States bears no more comparison to that of Nicaragua than a frosty morning in Carolina to a perpetual winter in Greenland.</P>
075.sgm:<P>We rode on, however, in spite of the fiery heat of the sun, and arrived at Virgin Bay in good season for dinner.  There were eight or ten dirty little taverns in this despicable little town, and as it was uncertain how long we should have to wait for our baggage, which was still behind, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The scenery here was grand beyond description.  Lake Nicaragua itself may be justly termed an inland sea.  It is more than one hundred miles long, and sixty miles in width.  Mount Ometepe, a dormant volcano, and by far the most beautiful elevation I ever saw, rises up out of the midst of this lake, in the form of a sugar-loaf, to the height of seven thousand feet.  At a rough guess, I should say it was about fifty miles in circumference at the base, or rather at the surface of the water.</P>
075.sgm:<P>A little before sunset, I returned to my hotel, and took supper.  I had, however, but little appetite for culinary preparations, for I had fed myself on such a quantity of mangoes, oranges, bananas, and other tropical fruits, that I was quite surfeited.  Forty or fifty hammocks were suspended in the loft of the hotel, and these were more attractive than any other part of the entertainment.</P>
075.sgm:<P>We sat up until nearly midnight, waiting for our baggage, but it did not come; and we were then informed that it would not arrive before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Pursuing the current of the San Juan, we passed the unworthy little village of Castillo, and again changed boats, leaving one of sorry dimensions behind, and taking passage in a meaner one of less size, and now came the peculiar annoyance of the route.  Owing to the shoals and sand banks in the river, we had to change ourselves and our baggage several times; and every change we made was from bad to worse.  Those of us who had taken passage in the cabin, though we had paid more than double the price of steerage tickets, received no extra accommodation whatever.  We were reduced to a level <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>There was not a mouthful of victuals prepared for us on board of these miserable, rickety little steamers; nor was there any place to sleep, except on deck, among puddles of tobacco juice. Occasionally we had an opportunity of buying fruits and refreshments on the way; and this was the only method we had of procuring any thing to eat.  I do not think I slept two hours out of the seventy-twowhich we occupied in passing the two oceans.  Indeed, the Transit Company treated us very shabbily.  We had paid them their price, and they had promised us better things.  Sometimes, to save the steamer from running aground, we had to debark, and walk on the bank of the river.  On one occasion we were compelled to travel more than two miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Nicaragua can never fulfil its destiny until it introduces negro slavery.  Nothing but slave labor can ever subdue its forests or cultivate its untimbered lands.  White men may live upon its soil with an umbrella in one hand and a fan in the other; but they can never unfold or develop its resources.  May we not safely conclude that negro slavery will be introduced into this country before the lapse of many years?  We think so.  The tendency of events fully warrants this inference.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The time may come when negro slavery will no longer be profitable in the United States; and it is also possible that the descendants of Ham may finally work their way beyond the present limits of our country.  But if these fated people ever do make their exodus from the hands of their present owners, they will find themselves journeying and toiling under the control of new masters, in the fertile wildernesses and savannas nearer the equator.  Louisiana and Texas may, at some future time-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>It would be no easy task to find a more feeble and ineffective population than that which now idles away a miserable existence in Nicaragua.  Nature is too bountiful to the inhabitants.  It supplies them with every necessary of life, and consequently there is no incentive to exertion or emulation.  Countless fruits and nuts grow and ripen spontaneously, and they have nothing to do but to eat them.  We did not pass a single patch of ground under cultivation; nor did I see any improvement, except the despicable little huts and shanties in which the people lived.</P>
075.sgm:<P>On the morning of the first day of April, we arrived at San Juan del Norte, alias Greytown, which has recently handed its name down to history, in connection with that of commander Hollins, by whom, in compliance with instructions from our government, it was bombarded a few months ago.  We did not go on shore, but I saw enough of the place to convince me that it was never worth half the paper which has been spoiled by diplomatic notes concerning it. The Americans call it Greytown, but the original Spanish name is San Juan del Norte, which, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>We now found ourselves happily situated where we had good order, good accommodations, and good treatment--three good things which many of us had not been accustomed to for three long years.  An air of propriety and fitness pervaded the Star of the West fore and aft; and we felt as if we were emerging from a vile and debased community, and entering upon the threshold of refined society. No incident worthy of note occurred during this part of our voyage.  We were in hopes the captain would stop at Kingston, Havana, or some other West India port; but he had no occasion to do so.  Passing on between Cuba and Yucatan, we rounded the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>MY LAST MINING ADVENTURE.</P>
075.sgm:<P>MORE than satisfied with the experience I had acquired in mining operations in California, I found much difficulty in deciding upon my future course.  At one time I made up my mind to try what the fickle jade fortune would do for me in Australia, and even went so far as to engage a passage on board of a ship that would sail for Sydney within a week.  An acquaintance and friend, to whom I imparted my intentions, earnestly persuaded me to abandon my projected voyage, and urged me to accompany him to Columbia and take an interest in a very promising mining adventure.  My friend said "he felt quite sure that we could make an ounce ($16) a day each with the utmost ease, provided we were favored with sufficient rain.  And as the rainy season was close at hand, he was fully satisfied that we should have as plentiful a supply of water as our mining operations would require."  I had heard of these diggings frequently, and that gold was found there in great abundance, but as no stream watered these surface mines, they could only be worked during the rainy season.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>We left San Francisco in the latter part of the month of October, ran up the river San Joaquin to Stockton in a stern-wheel steamboat, so crowded with passengers that berths were entirely out of the question, and so we were doomed to get through the night as best we could.  And <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
075.sgm: a night!  It is my candid belief that for some unknown reason this particular night lasted as long as thirteen others combined together, and that during its continuance, I visited the infernal regions, upon the pressing invitation of a legion of fiends, all wearing Chinamen's hats and long tails; moreover, I solemnly assert that almost every winged insect and other creeping thing within a circuit of fifty leagues paid their respects to us on board that miserable little steamboat.  I have a faint recollection of invoking the aid of all the saints in the calendar for relief, but they would not hear me, and so I e'en concluded to imitate great C&aelig;sar's example at the base of Pompey's statue,--wrap my head in my mantle, and thus resign myself to inexorable fate.  As <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:to my friend, I had lost sight of him almost as soon as we entered the boat, and it was no small gratification to think that remorse had caused him to commit suicide, or some such thing.  I trusted he had leaped overboard from sheer compunction of conscience for having deluded me into this scrape, and hoped by drowning himself to atone in some measure for his atrocious conduct.  Poor fellow! I forgave him, and mentally resolved to get up something pathetic in the shape of an obituary notice, as thus: Departed this life, on the evening of the 25th of October, 1853, by water, one Shad Back, (real name supposed to be Shadrach Bachus,) aged 34, or there-away.  The immediate cause of his death was remorse of conscience for having decoyed an unsuspecting and virtuous youth on board of a poor miserable craft crowded with passengers, without berths, without seats, and swarming with vermin of every description, including Chinamen.  It is supposed that, in a moment of despair, produced by witnessing the distress of his victim, he jumped into the river and was drowned.  His numerous friends cannot but bewail his untimely end, although <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
075.sgm: are of the opinion that it "sarved him right."  <HI REND="italics">Requiescat in pace</HI>
075.sgm:<P>I thought I would add to this a verse or so from some suitable ditty, but could hit upon nothing that would reach the case better than a portion of Gray's Elegy, beginning: "Here rests <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:his head upon this lap of earth," &amp;c.  Now as I was not fully convinced that "his head <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
075.sgm: rest upon this lap of earth," I deemed it best to change the text slightly to meet the melancholy occasion, and make it read thus:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB><HI REND="italics">There rests</HI>
075.sgm: beneath the briny wave,<LB>A youth to linen and to soap unknown;<LB>Fair science frowned, but failed to save<LB>This blessed youth, who then went down.<LB></HI>
075.sgm:<P>I confess my inability to state distinctly what is meant by the last line; it seemed to rhyme with "unknown," and as I never had been guilty of an attempt of this kind before, I thought it would do very well as a first effort in the line of poetry.  I may as well here explain also, that as I intended to have the whole thing painted upon a good sized shingle, and that nailed upon some tree near the sea shore, I thought it would be a good idea to have the hand with an extended finger painted conspicuously on the shingle, to serve as a pointer towards the ocean; this would sufficiently explain the meaning of " <HI REND="italics">there rests</HI>
075.sgm:," and " <HI REND="italics">briny wave</HI>
075.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the bodily torments I underwent during that livelong night, with my head wrapped in a mantle and all the rest of my person fairly given over to the tender mercies of thousands of mosquitos, gnats, sand-flies, ants, ticks, fleas and bed-bugs, I really experienced a strong sensation of relief upon reflecting how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Morning dawned at last, and I was in the very act of gathering the remainder of my person into an upright position, when I heard a voice, proceeding from beneath an immense heap of Chinamen, Irishmen, and niggers, calling me by name, and entreating my assistance to get him upon his legs.  I seemed to know the voice very well, but could not recall to mind the owner.  Deeming it, however, the duty of a good Christian to help a distressed fellow-creature, I made my way through the crowd to the spot whence the voice issued, and there, to my intense grief and astonishment, I beheld my friend Shad upon his back, actively engaged in repelling, with hands and feet, the united assaults of a strong force, composed of three Irishmen and four Chinese fellows.  I became convinced, the moment I saw his position, that if he escaped hanging for his misdemeanors in California, he would become a great general, and an ornament to the military profession.  I came to this conclusion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:because, at the moment I saw him, he was preparing to repel the enemy in a most masterly manner.  The allies were <HI REND="italics">en potence</HI>
075.sgm:, and had already attacked and dispersed Shad's advanced guard, making prisoners of his outlying pickets (his boots and hat) in a gallant manner.  Then with a determination to conquer or die, rushed upon the main body.  Here, after a most desperate struggle, during which many great deeds of daring were exhibited, the enemy were repulsed with immense loss.  Much as I deprecate war in any shape, yet I could not sufficiently admire the calm and collected appearance of Shad, even when in the heat of the <HI REND="italics">melee</HI>
075.sgm:.  One particular feat performed by one of Shad's feet, was observed by me with much astonishment, and it seemed to strike an Irishman very forcibly too, as he honored the performance by immediate prostration.  The enemy had retired to a distance, and no doubt held a council of war, and from the disposition of his forces shortly after, I judged his intention was to make a demonstration upon Shad's front, and then attack him with his whole concentrated force in the rear.  My conjecture proved correct.  I saw in a moment that this man&oelig;uvre must prove successful, unless Shad could strengthen his flanks, or form himself into a hollow square.  And here it soon became apparent how profoundly my friend had studied the art of attack and defence.  A pocket edition <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>At this stage of the proceedings, I proposed mediating between the high contending parties, which proposal being acceded to, I forthwith decided the matter in difference, (of which I did not understand one word,) by decreeing a forfeiture of Shad's boots, the restoration of his hat, and the payment by Shad for two gallons of <HI REND="italics">redeye</HI>
075.sgm: to regale the company.  This last decision was received with marked respect by all but my poor friend.  It was also decreed that the captured boots should belong hereafter to the most <HI REND="italics">devout</HI>
075.sgm: of the belligerents.  Thereupon they were deposited at the feet of a boy from the sod, who, since his prostration, had been seated on deck, curved up in a manner quite curious to behold.  He resembled the capital letter G as much as any thing I could think of at the time.  Peace <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:having been solemnly proclaimed, I had now an opportunity of better observing my friend Back's personal appearance.  He had never been very remarkable for great personal beauty at any period of his life, and as the late battle had not left him wholly unscathed, it would have proved a great hit indeed to an artist, if he could have taken his likeness just then!  When we came on board of this infernal boat, Mr. Shad Back possessed a pair of bright blue eyes, which by some uncommon process had been converted, during the night, into a pair (or rather one and a half) of dismal black ones; his nose, always flat, was now scarcely discernible at all--it had been absolutely beaten into his face; lips as thick and black as those of a Loango negro, and without a tooth in his head to save him from starvation.  The fact is, my friend Shad had received as severe a mauling as one man could well stagger under; and although I pitied him truly and sincerely, yet I could not help feeling a sort of disappointment at knowing he was not drowned or dead in some way, and it is a great disappointment to any one, after making extensive preparations to mourn the fate of a man who he hopes will commit suicide.  After he has adjusted his face and his garments to represent a decent amount of grief, and above all, after he has composed his epitaph, including therein a scrap of touching poetry, to find that he is not dead nor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:drowned after all, I say again, <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
075.sgm:<P>But, supposing "all things are for the best," I swallowed my chagrin and a cup of (stewed mud) coffee together, resolving to write no man's epitaph until I had the sexton's certificate, or officiated in person at the crowner's or coroner's inquest.</P>
075.sgm:<P>We landed in Stockton a little before noon of the same day, and thence took passage in a lumber wagon for Columbia, in or near which place the mines were situated.  Columbia is in Tuolumne county, near the base of the Sierra Nevada, and contains about 2,000 inhabitants.  Its mines are said to be the richest in the State.  As we had come here for the express purpose of making a fortune without let or hindrance, and with as little labor as possible, we went to work at once, digging and toiling like men determined to become millionaires within a week at the farthest.  In a few days we had collected a large mass of dirt together, and only waited for rain to afford us an opportunity of testing its value.  But the rain would not come.  Every morning, for at least a month, Shad predicted rain in torrents, and got drunk without delay, in order, as he said, to celebrate an event of so much consequence to our future fortunes.  Sure enough, the rain did come at last.  It continued to fall somewhat briskly for about an hour, then it ceased for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The amount of water that had fallen barely sufficed to wet the thirsty earth, and it would therefore require just six such rainy days to give us water sufficient to commence our washing operations.  Mr. Back's extensive researches into the science of astronomy enabled him to predict an astonishing amount of wet weather; at least such, he said, was <HI REND="italics">prognoxicated</HI>
075.sgm: by the <HI REND="italics">starring ferment</HI>
075.sgm:<P>We were now well into the month of December.  The rainy season usually commences about the middle of November, and continues almost without intermission until the latter part of February.  The year previous it had rained for three months without cessation; now we had no rain.  December passed away, and January had come, still the drought continued.  Men and animals drooped, the earth had become baked, not a shrub, not a leaf, no, not even a blade of grass could be seen in any direction.  A drier season had never been known in that region.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:Shad had been sober for several days upon compulsion entirely.  He could get no more liquor, not because the fiery draught was scarce, but for want of money to pay for it.  My own funds were out, gone to liquidate our daily expenses, so that the prospect before us looked gloomy enough.  I think, had it been our good fortune to have water, we should have made a very handsome sum out of our large heap of dirt.  Without water, to separate the precious metal from the dirt, we could do nothing.  About the 20th of January it rained nearly all the morning.  "Hope told a flattering tale."  Alas for us poor devils, the rain ceased at noon; this same half a day's rain cost Shad the only shirt he had for liquor.  He said he felt morally certain the rainy season had set in <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
075.sgm:, and that he would have a regular jollification upon the strength of it, if it cost him his shirt, and it <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
075.sgm:<P>The season was now so far advanced that we could no longer hope for continuous rain, if it came at all; so I resolved, though with reluctance and after much deliberation, to abandon our <HI REND="italics">pile of gold</HI>
075.sgm: and make the best of my way back to San Francisco.  It was all well enough that I should make a resolve of this description, but the principal part of the affair would be to carry it into effect.  The <HI REND="italics">primum mobile</HI>
075.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">sinews of war</HI>
075.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">wherewith</HI>
075.sgm: must first be found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Thus terminated my last mining adventure in the gold regions of California.</P>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The title of our chapter will bring up to the minds of all who visited California, during its early days, some startling recollections.  The Vigilance Committee was the institution of that country, striking terror into all evil doers.  Like all energetic associations, it was capable of being abused and sometimes ran into extremes, but its worst enemies cannot deny that it was the only thing which could suppress crime at the time it was in power.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Great mistakes are made in regard to this organization by most writers who have spoken of it.  They have committed the very common error of judging of the institutions of one set of people by the standard of another.  They have applied to California the same rule which would guide them in their judgment of an Atlantic State.  In reality, however, there is no parallel between the two.  The latter is inhabited by a population educated to regard the law as the paramount authority.  The lawless are in the minority among them.  Years of good government have taught the criminal to look upon the public <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>In California, however, every thing was the reverse of this.  No sooner were her doors thrown open and her treasures disclosed, than people from every quarter of the globe thronged to her shores.  Men of industrious habits and adventurous spirit went thither of course, as they always hasten to every new field of enterprise.  The crowd of newcomers, however, was swelled by others of a far different character.  Plunder was of course to be had, and the swindlers and desperados, who live by their wits, were quite as eager to visit the new country as were the honest miners who had come to wrench fortune from the flinty bowels of the earth by their brawny arms.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Villains from all parts of the world swarmed upon the new soil.  Cunning sharpers from New England, desperate vagabonds from Texas, bogus men from the north-west, and reckless plunderers from the prairies hastened to California like crows to a corn-field.  Mexico sent thither her sly robbers, Chili and Peru furnished their secret assassins.  The penal colonies of Great Britain vomited their refuse upon this unhappy land, and even savage pirates from the Eastern Archipelago found their way to El Dorado.  The territory numbered among her inhabitants accomplished thieves, burglars and cut-throats from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>It may readily be understood what a state of society existed there.  The laws of the United States were, by a figure of speech, said to be in force over the new territory.  Really, however, they were as impotent as they are in a village of Blackfeet among the Rocky Mountains.  The officers of the law were utterly powerless.  Rarely did they attempt to assert their authority, and when they did make the effort, they signally failed.  The only law recognized there was that of the strongest.  The correct aim, the steady hand, the strong arm were the only protectors of a Californian in those days.  He might as well lean upon a wilted blade of grass as upon the legal authorities.</P>
075.sgm:<P>This condition of affairs afforded a fine harvest to the amiable gentlemen who had come hither to practice their professions.  Robberies and murders became every-day occurrences, of no more importance than an assault and battery on election day.  The most daring outrages were every where committed with impunity.  Unoffending men were shot down and pillaged in broad daylight; shops were broken open; haciendas were stormed;--in short, the country was in a state of siege, and the blackguards were in the ascendent.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>At this critical period, some of the settlers fortunately recollected a similar state of affairs in the country between the Mississippi and the Alleghanies, and the sharp but effective remedy which was then applied.  They remembered how organized bands of robbers had infested the states and territories of the Mississippi Valley, how judges and constables and sheriffs had been connected with these infamous associations, how justice was perpetually defrauded of her dues, because juries composed of members of the same villainous fraternity could easily be packed; and how, finally, the honest portion of the community, exasperated beyond endurance by these repeated villainies, took the law in their own hands, and remorselessly hung and shot all the desperadoes who fell into their power, with the ultimate effect of restoring peace and good order.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The same evil demanded the same remedy.  The Vigilance Committee was organized.  It was composed of the best men in San Francisco, men who would have been the most zealous supporters of the law, had there been any law to support; men of firmness and resolution who were determined to have peace and security at all hazards.  It was not exactly a secret society, but some sort of privacy was necessary to be observed.  Were its agents generally known, not only would they be marked out for the secret vengeance of the vermin they were hunting down, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The most important question which occurred to the committee, at its very formation, was the disposition to be made of the criminals arrested by its agents.  They had no prisons at their command, and had no time to devote to the tedious formalities of law proceedings.  Ropes, however, were at their disposal, and even California had trees enough to answer their purposes, except San Francisco, where the pulleys upon hoisting beams which projected from the warehouses afforded a very convenient substitute.  Their code, therefore, necessarily resembled Draco's.  For graver crimes they hung their culprits, for minor offences they flogged them, rode them on rails, tarred and feathered them, and ordered them away from a settlement within a given time under penalty of sharper punishment.  Their threats were generally punctually executed.  Their principle was that of Mr. Carlyle--to get rid of rascality by exterminating the rascals.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The results of the proceedings of this committee were beneficial in the highest degree.  Before its establishment, it was dangerous to walk the streets of San Francisco in broad daylight; after it had been in operation for a short time, that city became as safe as any upon the other sea-board.  They retained their authority until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>We have already said that this committee has been harshly judged and unjustly condemned by persons who were imperfectly or not at all acquainted with the facts in the case.  These very men, however, recognize the necessity and acknowledge the benefits of the Holy Vehm.  They can see plainly enough that the robber barons "who spared not man in their anger nor woman in their lust," who were a curse and a nuisance to all honest people, needed to be struck suddenly and without remedy by some invisible hand, which they could neither escape by flight, intimidate by threats, nor bribe with money.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The main thing every where to be attained is order, that honest men may do their work in peace and quietness.  If law gives them this, well and good.  Law must be supported.  If law is powerless, then the rifle, or the knife, or the rope must take its place.  In so unsettled a state of society, as that which existed in California at the time of which we are speaking, the first thing is to strike terror into the ruffians.  That must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The quiet and honest settlers of California were fully convinced of the necessity of this committee, and zealously supported it.  Indeed, the committee rarely acted alone.  Almost always the citizens were called in, and had as much to say as the members of this self-constituted tribunal upon the case in hand.  They only took the initiative; they saw that the scoundrels did not escape; the public did the rest.</P>
075.sgm:<P>As for the thieves, robbers and rascals of every grade, they entertained a wholesome terror of this energetic organization. When one of them received his orders to quit a certain place, he did not dare to disobey.  He knew that unless he did what he was commanded, his punishment was inevitable.  The committee was as inexorable as destiny itself.</P>
075.sgm:<P>I have no time to go into the examination of the arguments advanced against such an institution as this.  A glance at one or two must suffice.  It has been said that the committee was irresponsible, and that it is highly dangerous to entrust the power of life and death to irresponsible hands.  In truth, however, the committee was not irresponsible.  It sprang from the people, and though not formally elected by them, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Again, they have been accused of haste and cruelty in their operations.  We have already said something on this head.  Perhaps, however, it may be well to speak more directly to this charge. The necessity of punishment must be granted.  There is no other mode of preserving order.  Now, it must be remembered that California was then really in a state of anarchy, though nominally under the government of the United States.  Every body did that which was right in his own eyes, or rather what his inclination prompted him to attempt.  The consequence was, as we have already said, that murders and robberies were every-day occurrences.  Life and property were wholly unprotected.  In this state of affairs the vigilance committee took the matter up, and determined to regulate affairs.  What were they to do with a criminal once caught?  To take bail for him, and let him run till a certain course of regular formalities could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>As for the charge of cruelty, it must be acknowledged that the code of the vigilance committee was severe.  They hung for many offences which, in the Eastern States, can only deprive a man of his liberty.  This also was a matter of necessity.  Such severity was requisite to strike terror into the lawless vagabonds who infested the newly settled country.  Besides, it was doing no more than was done in civilized, refined, enlightened England less than fifty years ago.  Indeed, the vigilance committee were more merciful than the authorities of that realm, who hung a rogue for stealing a hat.  It was only when a robbery was attended with circumstances of peculiar atrocity that they resorted to this extreme punishment.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>Allowance must also be made for the state of feeling among the people in regard to capital punishment.  It did not inflict such a shock upon them as it does on the inhabitants of an old, regularly governed country.  Life was held very cheap there; it was taken upon the slightest provocation.  Every man went armed, and weapons were resorted to at the commencement of a fray.  The dry goods man, who measured out calico behind his counter, waited on his customers with a pair of revolvers stuck in his belt.  The customers, wild, savage looking men, leaned upon their rifles or played with their bowie-knives while making their bargain.  The purchase completed, the buyer threw down his leathern bag of gold dust, the seller weighed out the proper quantity and returned the rest.  Should a dispute arise, few words were interchanged; arms were immediately appealed to, and the question was speedily settled.  It is but fair, however, to say that, during these early days, the regular traders had but few difficulties with the miners, arising from attempts to defraud.  Clearly, such a state of society cannot be judged by the same rule which applies to a settled and orderly community.  A scene which I witnessed at Sacramento will probably give my readers a better idea of the mode of proceeding adopted by the vigilance committee, than any lengthened description of mere generalities.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>A man who had recently returned from the mines, and was on his way to his home on the Atlantic coast, arrived in Sacramento one morning, and put up at the Orleans hotel.  He had been quite successful in his labors, and brought in a goodly quantity of gold dust, a portion of which only he had deposited; the rest he carried about his person for current expenses.  Elated with his good fortune, he could not refrain from boasting of his skill and judgment, and the excellent results he had obtained.  He exhibited sundry little leather bags, and picked out nuggets remarkable for size or for oddity of form, which he exhibited freely to all the inmates of the house.  He had one irregular mass of gold, which, to his fancy, resembled a race-horse.  Another jagged, shapeless lump, he conceived to be a perfect likeness of Mr. Polk, whom he greatly admired, and this he declared his intention of having made into a breast-pin.  He talked largely of the great things he would do with his money when he reached home, and, in the excess of his liberality, "treated the crowd" to innumerable cock-tails and smashes.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Two men, who were unknown to the people of the hotel, seemed particularly interested in the history of his exploits, and professed to have acquired a high regard for him personally, during their brief acquaintance.  They swore he was a trump, that such a good fellow deserved to make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Their proposition was accepted.  Success and "red-eye" had rendered him more than usually confiding, and the three strolled away, amid the laughter of the crowd, reeling, hiccoughing, and swearing eternal friendship.  They rambled off to a back street, engaged in the same interesting conversation.  Suddenly one of the companions of our hero disengaged himself from his arm, slipped behind him, and with a billet gave him a tremendous blow upon the head, which knocked him bleeding upon the pavement.  He was stunned only for a moment, and the blow seemed to have sobered him.  He began to struggle, when his other newly found friend joined in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Strange as it may sound to my reader, this outrage was perpetrated about three o'clock on a summer afternoon.  Some persons in the neighborhood witnessed the whole affair, and immediately gave the alarm.  The vigilance committee, ever on the alert, were soon in pursuit, and the scoundrels were captured a short distance from the outskirts of the city.  The news spread with great rapidity, and soon a large crowd had collected.  When I reached the scene of action, the members of the committee were escorting the culprits to a little grove of stunted oaks which stood upon the outskirts of the town.  There was an expression of calm determination on the faces of the committee, of angry excitement on those of the rest of the crowd.  Furious cries of "hang them!" burst from the mob, but did not seem to excite or ruffle the chief actors in this terrible drama, who went about their duties with great system and deliberation.  As for the criminals themselves, a more villainous pair of faces it was never my fortune to look upon.  Low brows, heavy features, and cold steel-gray eyes, gave <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>A jury was immediately empanneled by order of the committee, one of whom acted as judge.  "Fellow-citizens," said he, "these men have been accused of perpetrating an atrocious crime within the limits of this city.  We are now ready to give them a fair trial. Those gentlemen who witnessed the outrage will now come forward and give in their testimony!"</P>
075.sgm:<P>The culprits were made to confront the jury, guarded by members of the Vigilance Committee.  Several citizens came forward and stated what they had seen, and others from the hotel identified the prisoners as the men who went off with the unlucky miner.  They also recognized the bags and the nuggets which were taken from them as the same which had been exhibited at the hotel.  As for the wounded man, he was too badly hurt to testify.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The case was fairly made out against them, the jury gave in their verdict, and the judge formally inquired what the convicts had to say why sentence should not be pronounced upon them.  They muttered out a few unintelligible words, when with a clear loud voice, he said: "Prisoners, you have been found guilty of a murderous assault and robbery.  You have had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>A man, who represented himself as a Methodist preacher, now advanced to the miserable men, said a few words to them in a low tone of voice, and then knelt down to pray beside them.  During this part of the ceremony, the crowd stood silently by, and many took off their hats.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Presently the preacher rose and mingled with the crowd.  A man advanced to the culprits and carefully pinioned their arms with a strong rope.  At this stage of the proceedings, they seemed to be fully aroused to a sense of their danger.  They looked around and seemed to scrutinize every face in the whole assembled multitude. Never shall I forget that mute, appealing gaze.  It was useless; not a face in the whole crowd wore an aspect of mercy; but again arose the angry shout: "Hang them! hang them!"  The judge now called out,  "Gentlemen! the hour is up!" whereupon they were led to a tree and swung off.  A few struggles and all was over.  The crowd quietly dispersed; the excitment subsided, and an hour afterwards no one would have suspected that any thing unusual had happened.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>Such proceedings as these--the absolute and inevitable certainty of punishment--produced order throughout the State.  Indeed, it was the Vigilance Committee alone that ever has enforced obedience to law.  The State's Attorney of San Francisco states that in four years <HI REND="italics">twelve hundred murders had been perpetrated, and only one of the criminals was convicted</HI>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>BODEGA.</P>
075.sgm:<P>ONCE more in San Francisco, I made preparations to return to the Atlantic States as rapidly as my health and dilapidated means would permit.  Before leaving this pseudo Eldorado for ever and aye, I had a wish to see a celebrated grazing district, famed for its vast herds of horned cattle and wild horses; and so, having hired at an enormous price a sorry looking mule, like the knight of La Mancha mounted upon Rosinante, I sallied forth from San Francisco in search of new adventures.  I took the high road along the bay towards Bodega, a small town situated upon the Pacific coast, 60 miles north-east from San Francisco.  I had hardly cleared the suburbs of the city, when my mule began to exhibit qualities very far from respectable; as, for example, he would stop suddenly, hold down his head, plant his fore feet firmly, and reflect, I suppose, upon the proper moment to pitch me over his head.  He had a very uncomfortable way too of throwing up his head, and more than once just grazed my nose; then he was so playful! jerking the bridle suddenly and casting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:his head round so as almost to reach my leg with his teeth.  And, moreover, I judged him to be partial to botanical studies, from the fact of his taking every opportunity of pushing his way through the scrub bushes that lined the road, as if he thought the occasion favorable to scrape me off his back.  I have never been very famous for my skill in equitation, nor have I ever been too anxious to intrust myself to the care and safekeeping of other legs than my own, and I must acknowledge that when I discovered the little pleasing eccentricities already enumerated, I thought it would be most prudent to return; and would have done so, only that the devilish brute would not consent to take the back track; by which I mean that, when I attempted to turn his head homeward, he commenced such a series of circumgyratory evolutions that I remained long in doubt as to which of my limbs would remain unbroken when I <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
075.sgm: come to the ground, a catastrophe by no means far distant if he continued to spin around five minutes longer.  I clung to the pummel of the Spanish saddle, however, with the gripe of a maniac, shouting wo! with an unction and vigor that I am sure contributed as much as any thing else towards stopping the incarnate devil in his mad career.  Any person, to have seen my involuntary performances on this trying occasion, would most assuredly have pronounced me the best circus rider in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:known world.  I am favorably known at home as an even tempered, nay, as a good tempered person; but I verily believe I lost my temper here on this spot, not that I remember to have ever been profane, but I am sure I consigned the wretch to the safe-keeping of a nameless personage, with a particular request regarding the future disposition of his eyes and limbs.  As I could do nothing better, I let him have his own way, and for the next hour or so we got along very well together, and I really began to think well of his muleship; when suddenly, and as if by magic, I found myself upon my back in the road, and the precious villain prancing and curveting within fifty feet of where I lay, as if in the very act of rejoicing that he had thrown me there.  I had received a slight bruise upon one of my shoulders by the fall, a matter not deserving much attention, and was considering the best method of catching the atrocious robber, as he very deliberately walked up to me, and adjusted his position so that I could mount him again with ease, which I did without delay.  Shortly after, we reached a Chinese encampment--all men, or at least I supposed so.  They looked exactly alike in face and in dress.  Two or three were assembled around a fire, the rest were gambling; those by the fire were engaged in cooking rats in an expeditious manner.  I should think there might have been about a bushel of these animals <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Bodega contains not more than four hundred inhabitants, including "Digger" Indians, "niggers" and dogs, the last by far the most useful and most decent of the concern.  The people of the town told me that the place was first settled by the Russians, but no vestiges remain of the original settlers to denote who or what they were.  A very worthy man is the sole proprietor of the town now--he is an American; some years since resided in Valparaiso, where he married several bags of doubloons, a large lot of cattle, some fine horses, and a Chilian lady; removed to California and became the possessor of the town of Bodega, and a very large portion of the surrounding country.  For my part, I could see nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Twelve miles south-east of Bodega is the little village of Petaluma, situated upon the margin of an extensive swamp or morass, through which a small stream winds its way to the bay of San Francisco.  This morass is entirely overflowed during the winter.  In the summer it becomes perfectly dry, and cracks open in every imaginable direction to the depth of twelve or fifteen feet, the crevices varying from one to eight inches in width.  At an early period the Indians captured entire herds of horned cattle in the summer by driving them into this morass.  If an animal attempts to cross this fissured spot he must assuredly break his legs.  It is no uncommon occurrence daily to find three or four wild horses, and as many more horned cattle, vainly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Upon my return to Bodega, I witnessed the punishment of an Indian boy for theft.  This was the case:  The boy had stolen a trifling sum from the house of an American, and being shortly after detected with the money in his possession, he was sentenced to expiate his offence in a very novel manner; and here I might with great propriety use the language of Lord Byron, the scene reminded me so strongly of the main incidents of his Mazeppa.  A wild horse that had been caught with the lasso only the day before, was brought out, and the boy's person in an upright position securely strapped to his back.  The boy thus bound, the horse was then freed from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>In returning, I took the road through the valleys of Sonoma and Napa to Benicia; feeling fatigued and somewhat indisposed upon reaching the city of Benicia, I determined to rest there a day or two.  Benicia contains about 1500 inhabitants, is 40 miles north-east from San Francisco, situated upon a branch of the Sacramento river.  The city is regularly laid out on a gentle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:slope, rising from the water's edge to the hills in the rear.  Benicia is a port of entry, contains an arsenal, a navy-yard, and extensive docks for repairing and refitting steamers.  Ships of the largest class can come up to the wharves.  It has been proposed to establish the seat of government of the State here.  It must be by no means understood that I had traveled thus far upon my return without trouble from the antics and extravagances of my mule, being somewhat upon my guard, I more than once foiled him in his design of getting me off his back.  I have seen vicious animals in my time, but never saw any thing to equal the cunning and malice of this one.  It seemed as if he had been taught every thing that was bad, and being naturally vicious, had become by long practice more than a match for man.  Desirous of examining more closely a singularly formed elevation some fifteen miles from Benicia, known as Monte Diabolo, I set out the third morning after my sojourn in Benicia to visit this famous mountain.  Mounted upon my rascally mule, I had unfortunately suffered myself to be persuaded to wear a pair of Spanish spurs, having been assured that the fractious conduct of the mule heretofore was entirely owing to my not providing myself with these persuaders at the commencement of my journey.  I had ridden barely the half of a mile, when the accursed animal was seized with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:fiend-like desire to break my neck and his own too.  With this commendable purpose in view, he began by taking short leaps forward, backward and sideways, varied every now and then by an effort to throw me over his head, by casting his hind legs high into the air, or in endeavoring to force me off by standing almost upright, and pawing the air with his fore feet.  I maintained my seat with difficulty during these fiendish gambols, and plied him with the spurs.  This settled the matter at once, for no sooner did I plunge the sharp rowels into his infernal sides, than he stood for a moment, as if to gather strength for a more mighty effort; then, dropping his head, he suddenly threw out his hind feet with such violence as to eject me from his back with an impetus that I am astonished did not crush every bone in my body, and kill me outright.  As it was, my left leg only was broken.  The mule, demon as he was, seemed to exult in his misdeeds, and to be well content with the (to him) triumphant termination of the contest; at least I judged so, from his sounding the trumpet of victory long and loud; he brayed incessantly for an hour.  My leg was broken just above the ankle, and whenever I moved gave me exquisite pain.  What to do I did not know; I could not move.  I was somewhat comforted, however, by reflecting that I should not lie in this helpless condition long.  I was on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:highway, and some traveler must pass soon.  I shouted with all the voice I had left; pain and agony had weakened me so much, that I feared death would ensue before my situation could be known.  At length I attempted to drag myself upon my hands and knees towards Benicia, then less than a mile distant.  In the effort, the agony I endured caused me to faint.  I know not how long I lay in this death-like condition.  When I again returned to consciousness, I found myself in bed, with my broken limb confined between splints, after having been properly set by a surgeon.  Many weary days and nights were passed upon a bed of sickness.  I received every attention from the kind people into whose hands I had fallen.  These good Samaritans had found me insensible by the wayside, my mule standing within ten feet of me, very gravely contemplating his handiwork, afterwards suffering himself to be led back to Benicia, without making the slightest demonstration of discontent.  As soon as my new friends discovered the cause of my accident, it was proposed to shoot the mule forthwith.  To this summary disposition of the malignant brute I objected, not from any desire to save his worthless carcass, but from a wish to return him to his more worthless owner in San Francisco, whom I had some hope the animal would cripple for life upon some future day.  I therefore requested my friends to have him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>My most constant attendant was an old negro named Ben.  A better nurse I could not have had than this same old fellow.  As he was quite an original, I will describe him.  Ben was about four feet six inches in height, very thin and very black; his grandfather must have been a chimpanzee--I feel quite sure of that, because his features were precisely those of an ancient baboon; his age might be about fifty or fifty-five, and at an earlier day he may have had a nose, I doubt it, though; at any rate he had none when I saw him.  No! not a bit.  It had disappeared altogether.  The wool grew within an inch of his eye-brows, and he had but one eye.  Ordinarily and for economy's sake, Ben was very simply attired in canvas pantaloons and the remnant of a red woolen shirt--disdaining hat and shoes, except upon great occasions and State celebrations; then, indeed, Ben shone conspicuous in all the glory of an immensely high bell-crowned white hat, with a narrow rim and a broad green ribbon to match, a tall, stiff shirt collar that reached his ears, a military stock, tightly buckled around his neck, which effectually prevented the wearer from looking downward, a whitish looking something that had been worn for at least seven years as an overcoat by a tall, stout man, now served Ben in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>To Ben's many other great talents must be added his very great proficiency in music.  He performed very spiritedly indeed upon the bass drum, and when necessary, could do the jingling upon the triangle.  But his forte was the fife, and it was a pleasing sight to see him upon a gala day, rigged as described, lugging a huge drum buckled to his breast bone, thrashing away with both hands as if his life depended upon the amount of confusion he created.  Suddenly he would cease, and drawing the fife from the depths of his breeches pocket, would favor the procession or company with an air from "Norma," or from somewhere else.  Heroic Ben! can I ever forget <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>At the end of five weeks, the doctor told me I could travel without danger to my leg, provided I was careful; accordingly I took passage on board of the steamer New World for San Francisco, and, with Ben as my body-guard, reached that city late in the evening of the same day without any further accident.  I immediately put myself under the care of an able physician, and in a very short time experienced no inconvenience from my now perfect leg.  As to Ben, he would not leave me, and in fact he made himself so necessary to my comfort that I was quite loth to part with him.  He was a good servant, a good nurse, and honest as far as circumstances would permit; but he would get liquor to drink some how; no matter in what shape it came, Ben must have liquor; buy, beg, borrow or steal, have it he would.  I have known him to drink the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>THE DIGGER INDIANS AND NEGROES.</P>
075.sgm:<P>OF all the aborigines that are known to travelers within the limits of the western continent, the Digger Indians are certainly the most filthy and abominable.  A worse set of vagabonds cannot be found bearing the human form.  They come into the world and go from it to as little purpose as other carnivorous animals.  Their chief characteristics are indolence and gluttony.  Partially wrapped in filthy rags, with their persons unwashed, hair uncombed and swarming with vermin, they may be seen loitering about the kitchens and slaughter-houses awaiting with eager gaze to seize upon and devour like hungry wolves such offal or garbage as may be thrown to them from time to time.  Grasshoppers, snails and wasps are favorite delicacies with them, and they have a peculiar relish for a certain little animal, which the Bible tells us greatly afflicted the Egyptians in the days of Pharaoh.  The male Digger never hunts--he is too lazy for this; he usually depends upon the exertions of his squaw to provide something or other to satisfy the cravings of hunger.</P>
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075.sgm:<P>The term Digger has been applied to these Indians in consequence of their method of procuring their food.  The grasshopper or cricket of California is one of their favorite messes.  They capture these insects by first digging a pit in the ground, and then forming a wide circle round it which is gradually narrowed.  In this manner they drive the insects to the pit and there capture them.  After having secured their prey, the next thing is to prepare it for food.  This is accomplished either by baking the grasshoppers in the fire or drying them in the sun, after which the Diggers pulverize them.  The epicures among them crush service-berries into a jam and thoroughly incorporate the pulverized insects with the pulpy mass to which they have reduced the fruit.  Others mix their cricket meal with parched sunflower seed, but this is an advance in civilization and in the luxuries of the table, which is made by very few of them.  They obtain the young wasps by burning the grass, which exposes the nests and enables them to grub in the earth for this delicacy.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Acorns are also a favorite article of diet with these wretched creatures.  In California, this fruit is larger and more palatable than with us, and it has the merit of being a cleaner kind of food than that which usually satisfies the Digger's hunger.  Rude as these people are, they have sense enough to observe that all years are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>Grass-seed constitutes another portion of their diet, and this is gathered by the women, who use for the purpose, two baskets, one shaped like a shield, the other deep and provided with a handle.  With the shield the top of the grass is brushed and the seed shaken down into the deep basket.  This also is made into bread.</P>
075.sgm:<P>It is commonly supposed that these Indians belong to a single tribe.  This, however, I think is doubtful.  They are scattered over a wide extent of country, being found far to the north, among the Utahs.  Those upon the frontier usually call themselves Shoshonees or Snakes, while some claim to be Utahs.  Their skin is nearly as dark as that of the negro.  Indeed they greatly resemble the African in color and general appearance.  They are distinguished <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>It is reported on good authority that Captain Sutter, the first settler on the Sacramento, at whose fort (the present site of Sacramento) gold was first discovered, employed these people to build his fort for him.  He paid them in tin coin of his own invention, upon which was stamped the number of days the holder had worked.  This was taken at his "store" for articles of merchandise, such as dry goods, &amp;c.  He fed his field Indians upon the offal of slaughtered animals and the bran sifted from ground wheat.  The latter was boiled in large iron kettles; and then placed in wooden troughs from which they scooped it out with their hands.  They are said to have eaten it, poor as it was, with great relish, and it was no doubt more palatable and wholesome than their customary diet.</P>
075.sgm:<P>These Indians are inveterate gamblers, and when they have been so fortunate as to obtain clothing, they are almost sure to gamble it away before they stop.  Their game is carried on as follows.  A number sit cross-legged on the ground in a circle, and they are then divided into two parties, each of which has two head players.  A ball is passed rapidly from hand to hand along the whole of one party, while the other attempts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The fate of these poor creatures is involved in no uncertainty.  They must melt away before the white man like snow before a spring sun.  They are too indolent to work, too cowardly to fight.  When pinched by the severity of hunger, and unable to procure their customary filthy diet, they are driven to the settlements, where they steal if they can, and do a little labor if they must.  No sooner, however, have they procured the means of satisfying their immediate wants, than they abandon the employment offered them and relapse into their customary indolent habits.  Of course, it can only be while labor is in such great demand as it now is, that they can secure even this temporary employment.  When hands become abundant in that country, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>In Marysville, passing by one of the slaughterhouses, I saw a collection of about twenty of these wretches waiting for the offal.  They were in the habit of presenting themselves regularly every morning at the same place and at the same hour to gather the refuse of the slaughtering establishment.  The proprietors rather encouraged these visiters than otherwise, for the same reason that the turkey-buzzard's visits are so acceptable to the denizens of most of our southern cities--they serve the purpose of scavengers so admirably.  On this particular occasion, however, one of the proprietors seemed not so well satisfied, from the fact of his having detected one or two of these "Diggers" in the very act of stealing some choice pieces of beef.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:stalwart Tennesseean and his son were the proprietors.  The father was a very stout man, and more than a match for fifty of these poor miserable devils: fond of whiskey, an inveterate swearer, and withal, when excited, as was then the case, dangerous.  As soon as the theft was discovered the eldest Tennesseean seized a meat-axe, and with a tremendous oath threatened to immolate the entire tribe, or, to use his own quaint but profane language, to "populate hell three deep with the damned thieving Digger Indians in less than no time."  This was said to his son, a good natured young man who was using his best endeavors to prevent his father from putting his terrible threat into execution.  Happily for the Indians, they had sufficient time to get out of reach of the enraged man, and make good their escape with the stolen meat.  The butcher's scheme for populating the infernal regions was to my mind quite original, to say the least of it, and notwithstanding the impiety of the thing, I could not refrain from laughing.  It afterwards became a matter of grave consideration how he would accomplish an undertaking of this description, without first having recourse to some actual measurement, the better to determine the amount of feet and inches required for each separate body.  I think he must have been something of a surveyor, and had already measured the area contained within the dominions of the evil one; how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>There are comparatively few negroes in this new State.  Most of those who are found here have emigrated from the northern and eastern States in the capacity of cooks and stewards of vessels.  They are in the same situation as their brethren in New York and Massachusetts, slaves to no single individual but to the entire community.  Like free negroes every where else, they inhabit the worst parts of the towns in California, and live commonly in characteristic filth and degradation.</P>
075.sgm:<P>There are a few blacks from the South, and these have been brought out here as slaves.  It is true that on their arrival here they have the power of claiming their freedom; but such is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>I was personally acquainted with a New Orleans sea-captain and ship-owner, who had a very likely negro man named Joe.  This slave had acted as his special servant for many years, and had made two or three voyages with him between Shanghai and San Francisco.  His conduct was entirely unobjectionable, and his duties were always promptly and efficiently discharged.  Indeed, the captain informed me that, though he had reared Joe, he never had occasion to whip him for any offence.  Others had observed the admirable traits of the negro, and several persons had attempted to buy him, offering extraordinary prices; but his master, having the highest appreciation of his qualities and a strong personal attachment for him, positively refused to part with him on any terms.  At last, however, Joe deserted the vessel.  An abolitionist had persuaded him to leave his master; and a short while thereafter he married a Mexican woman--a sort of half-breed--and went off to the mines, near Campo Seco.  But he found his freedom unprofitable and troublesome.  While in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:legitimate station he had always had an easy time, plenty of food and an abundance of clothing.  He had also accumulated two or three hundred dollars, which had been given him by his master, and others, for extra services.  Not long after his marriage with the Mexican woman, his money disappeard.  He became penniless, ragged, dejected, and, as a last resort, determined to return to San Francisco, beg his master's pardon, and, if possible, reinstate himself in the favor of one who had always been his friend.  He did return, presented himself as a suppliant before his master, told him that he had been persuaded to leave, that he was sorry for having done so, and now wished to enter his service again, promising unwavering faithfulness in the future.  The master regarded him with a steady gaze until he had finished his story, and then, in a distinct and dispassionate tone, said to him: "You had no cause for leaving me; I had always treated you well.  Now you may go; I don't want you any longer."  At the conclusion of these words, the negro dropped in despair at his master's feet, and wept like a child.  Moved by the sincerity of the negro's repentance, and having duly considered the extenuating circumstances of the case, the master overlooked his estrangement, set him to work and never had the least difficulty with him afterwards.  Of his Dulcina, whom it seems he had married in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>One more instance, and I have done with the negroes.  A gentlemen and three of his slaves, from the western part of North Carolina, had been mining about two years, near Quartzburg, in Mariposa county. Their efforts having been crowned with success, the master concluded to return home, and speaking to his slaves of his intention, he told them that they were at liberty to remain in California, where they would be entitled to the entire proceeds of their labor.  To this they replied that the abolitionists had told them that long before, and after detailing several attempts to decoy them from their owner, and signifying their unwillingness to remain in California, they concluded by requesting their master to take them with him.  He consented, paid their passage, and they all returned home in the same vessel.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The applicability of slave labor to the soil of Southern California is now becoming a theme of discussion in that region, and it is probable that the experiment will one day be tried.  Indeed, the propriety of dividing the State into Northern and Southern California has already occupied the attention of the legislature; and while it is generally admitted that the people <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>ARE YOU GOING TO CALIFORNIA?</P>
075.sgm:<P>In the preceding chapters it has been my purpose to impart such information as would lead my reader to a correct knowledge of the present condition of things in California, and to aid him in deciding whether he will emigrate to that country, or content himself in the Atlantic States.  I have endeavored (in a very brief and feeble manner, it is true) to purge the films from his eyes, that he might see the country in its true light.  I have told him of the distorted and exaggerated stories which have been circulated concerning it; of its barren soil, and unfavorable seasons; of the seeming incompleteness of nature, and the paucity of resources of employment therein; of its scanty productions, and dependence upon importations for all kinds of provisions and merchandise; of the expensiveness of living, and the extraordinary obstacles which lie in the way of prosecuting business with success; of the unprecedented number of mishaps and accidents, and the losses and perils to be apprehended from fire and water; of the lack of scenery, and the disagreeable consequences of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:the weather; of the inefficiency of the laws, and the anarchical state of society; of the breaches of faith between man and wife--of the almost utter disregard of the marriage relation, and the unexampled debauchery and lewdness of the community; of the contrariety of opinions which prevail, and the continual disputes and disturbances which arise in consequence of the heterogeneousness of the population; of the servile employments to which learned and professional men have to resort for the means of subsistence, and the thousands of penniless vagabonds who wander about in misery and dejection; of the dissipated and desperate habits of the people, and the astounding number of suicides and murders; of the incessant brawls and tumults, and the popularity of dueling; of the arbitrary doings of mobs, and the supremacy of lynch-law; of the general practice of carrying deadly weapons, and the contempt that is shown for human life; of the great difficulty of securing reliable titles to landed property, and the fatal rencounters with the squatters; of the bacchanalian riots by day, and the saturnalian revels at night; of the prefidy and delinquency of public functionaries, and the impossibility of electing an honest man to office; of the sophistication of provisions, and the filthy fare in hotels and restaurants; of the untrustworthy character of business men, and the frauds and stratagems <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>It was my intention to dwell somewhat at length upon a variety of subjects of interest, but the space which I assigned to myself is already nearly filled up, so that I find I shall be compelled to abandon this design and bring these desultory remarks to a close.  It would, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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075.sgm:<P>The necessity of this important national highway is too strongly impressed upon the minds of the thinking people of this nation, to be easily lost sight of.  Some erroneous opinions, however, are entertained in regard to the objects of the road by many who warmly advocate it.  It is supposed by a few that California is to contribute some wonderful benefits to it, and some few even go so far as to suppose that she can support it.  This is very absurd, as the previouschapters have, we hope, clearly explained.</P>
075.sgm:<P>California certainly will contribute something to the support of this great enterprise, but cannot, by any means, constitute the chief inducement to its construction.  Her gold will of course come more rapidly, readily and safely across the continent than around Cape Horn.  In this respect, the saving to the consignees on the Atlantic coast will be very great, and will be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>These, however, are not the only benefits which the road may expect to derive directly from California.  Much of the British commerce, which now finds its way to that distant region by the long routes, will go thither by the more direct and expeditious way of the new road.  A way commerce will also inevitably spring up and there will be a cordon of settlements and towns stretching across a wilderness which years of ordinary immigration would be required to fill up.  Branch roads would also soon start from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>To California it would be of the greatest service, and the enlargement of the resources of that State would of course increase those of the improvement which causes the beneficial change. The country would then be settled from the east as well as from the west, and the gold of the Sierra Nevada would speedily be brought into market.</P>
075.sgm:<P>These advantages, considerable as they are, really form but a very small portion of the inducements to the construction of this important work.  The great and important revenues of the road will come from far beyond the limits of the State.  The enormous commerce of Eastern Asia and its Archipelago, which has enriched every nation that ever secured it, will then flow over our country leaving its golden sands behind it.  China will send its teas, Amboyna its spices, Java its tin, Japan its copper, through our dominions.  No commercial man&oelig;uvring, no diplomatic juggles can divert this mighty trade <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>We must not forget, also, that this eastern commerce is greater and more important than it ever was.  Our efforts have unsealed Japan, and before long we shall be reaping the fruits of our enterprise in that quarter.  Australia, too, is now ready to add her gold to a commerce already immensely valuable.  China must open her doors still wider, for the world will knock loudly at them.  Nor is this all.  The whole trade of the western coast of South America must change its course.  A Pacific capital is destined to absorb it.  The whaling fleets of the Pacific will not have the stormy passage around Cape Horn to dread, but another New Bedford will look greasily upon the western ocean.  The fur trade also will change its course.  Oregon will furnish it with a port of departure, California with a permit of entry.  Siberia itself may divide its trade <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>I believe it is now generally admitted that the Southern route is the most practicable--that it is the most level, the most fertile, the best watered, the best timbered, and that the climate through which it runs is the only one that is favorable at all seasons of the year.  I have conversed with several gentlemen who passed over the various routes on their way to California, and they informed me that the mountainous parts of the northern routes are usually blocked up during the winter with immense drifts of snow, which lie upon the ground to the depth of from forty to fifty feet--sometimes much deeper.  Those who traveled over the northern routes also complained of the scarcity of wood, water and provisions, and represented the Indians as being very hostile and treacherous; while, in most cases, those who traveled over the southern route experienced no hindrance, difficulty or impediment whatever, having had pleasure, peace and plenty all the way.  But besides the advantages of climate, surface, soil, wood and water, there are other considerations which weigh in favor of the southern route.  The distance is much shorter, and the population is more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Every southern man should feel a lively interest in this gigantic scheme, and enlist all his energies in aid of its completion.  It affords one of the finest opportunities that the South has ever enjoyed for establishing her commercial independence, for counterbalancing the increasing commercial power of the North.  In connection with this subject, I may here present an extract from a letter which I had the honor to receive, not long since, from one of the most sagacious and far-sighted patriots of the South.  Speaking of the great Atlantic and Pacific Railway, among other things, he says: "North Carolina should not be an indifferent spectator of this noble enterprise.  The port of Beaufort, unrivaled for health, possesses a depth of water sufficient for all convenient purposes; while the placid bosom of its well-protected harbor, justly entitles it to be styled the Pacific port of the Atlantic coast.  Pursue its degree of latitude westward across the continent and the Pacific ocean, and you will find that degree passing near Memphis, Little Rock, Fulton, El Paso, and San Diego to Shanghai, the last two being the nearest ports of the two continents, in so low a latitude.  Railways are chartered from Beaufort westward, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Experienced navigators have said that, in consequence of the favorable course of the tradewinds, the voyage can be accomplished between San Diego and Shanghai in about eight days' less time than it can be between San Francisco and Shanghai; and this is certainly a very strong argument in favor of running the road directly to San Diego--leaving San Francisco to the right.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Since the above was written, the following abstract of the "Report of the Secretary of War on the several Pacific Railroad Explorations" has been published; and as it more than substantiates the correctness of my remarks, and imbodies a great deal of valuable information concerning the various routes, I hope the reader will peruse it with due care and attention.  I here transcribe it, with brief comments, from the columns of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
075.sgm:<P>PACIFIC RAILROAD EXPLORATIONS.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The "Report of the Secretary of War on the several Pacific Railroad Explorations" is before us.  It is an interesting and instructive document, embracing a careful review of the capabilities and drawbacks of the following routes, from the actual surveys:</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>FIRST--The extreme northern route, (Major Stevens',) between the 47th and 49th parallels of latitude, starting from St. Paul in Minnesota territory, and striking the Pacific at Puget's Sound, or the mouth of the Columbia, in Oregon.  This will require a road, allowing for ascent and descent, of 2,207 miles.  Estimated cost, $130,871,000.  The impediments in this route are the mountains to be tunneled, the numerous rivers to be bridged, the scarcity of timber, the coldness of the climate, and its proximity to the British possessions.</P>
075.sgm:<P>SECOND--Route of the forty-first parallel, (Mormon route,) commencing on the navigable waters of the Missouri, or on the Platte river, and striking thence over the Plains to the South Pass, thence to the Great Salt Lake, thence across the Great Basin to the Sierra Nevada chain, thence over that chain, and down to the Sacramento river, and down the same to Benicia, just above San Francisco, on the same harbor.  Estimated distance from Council Bluffs to Benicia, 2,031 miles; estimated cost, $116,095,000.  Obstructions same as in the first route, including wider deserts and deeper and rougher mountain gorges.</P>
075.sgm:<P>THIRD--Route of the thirty-eighth parallel, more familiarly known as Benton's great Central route, pronounced utterly impracticable from its mountain obstructions.  Estimated length from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>FOURTH--Route of the thirty-fifth parallel--(Senator Rusk's route)--beginning at Fort Smith, in Arkansas, thence westward to Albuquerque on the Upper Rio Grande, thence across the Rocky Mountains and the Colorado of the West and great desert basin and its mountains, and the lower end of the Sierra Nevada chain to San Pedro, at the southern extremity of California, on the Pacific.  This route is about as bad as Benton's, although the engineers think that 3,137 equated miles and $169,210,265 might, perhaps, do the work.</P>
075.sgm:<P>FIFTH--Route near the thirty-second parallel, or the extreme southern route, via Texas, New Mexico, El Paso and the Gila to the Pacific.  Estimated distance from Fulton in Arkansas, to San Pedro on the Pacific, 1,618 miles--equated length, allowing for ascents and descents, 2,239 miles.  Estimated cost, $68,970,000.</P>
075.sgm:<P>The advantages of this route are, that it is practically a third shorter than any of the others between the Mississippi and the Pacific--that it goes by the flank of the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada chain, instead of going over or under them--that the route is over a region of elevated table lands requiring little or no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>These are the results of careful scientific explorations, by highly accomplished engineers, of the several routes, from the extreme Northern to the extreme Southern route; and it is only necessary to consult one of the latest maps of the United States to see at a glance that the only really available route is that of the extreme South, via El Paso and the Gadsden country.  The estimated cost of a railroad (single track, we suppose) by this route is, in round numbers, $69,000,000, about half the estimate of the best of the other routes, to say nothing further of the saving of a thousand miles or so in the important matter of the distance to be traversed.</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>We consider this report conclusive as to the best route for a Pacific Railroad--it is the extreme Southern route.  A glance on any respectable map of the United States, at the several routes indicated, will satisfy the reader of this fact.  The engineers of the army have only made it more clear and satisfactory from their actual surveys.</P>
075.sgm:<P>But I must return again to my theme--California!  I will now lay before the reader a few extracts from letters which I have recently received from friends in the Pacific State, and it will be seen how fully they corroborate my own statement.</P>
075.sgm:<P>An editorial friend, writing to me from San Francisco, says:--"Business all over California remains in the same stagnant condition, and every sign prognosticates a time of hardship and suffering.  A crisis, in my opinion, is approaching, which will drag down nine-tenths of the business houses in the country.  Money gets more stringent every day, and every body seems to be at a loss to know what to do.  I must confess I see nothing promising in the future.  It is truly a dark day for California."</P>
075.sgm:<P>Another correspondent says--"There have been an unusual number of murders, suicides, duels and squatter riots within the last fortnight.  Heaven only knows what is to become of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Again, another correspondent says--"Every avenue to business is blocked up with a crowd <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>The following interesting letter, just received, I give in full:--</P>
075.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEAVERVILLE, Cal., May 7th, 1855.</HEAD>
075.sgm:<P>My Dear Friend,--I owe you an <HI REND="italics">amende</HI>
075.sgm:<P>Let us retrospect a little.  I wrote you frequently from Humboldt Bay, in answer to favors--my last letter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:having been written the day previous to my leaving that place.  As I then intimated, the next day found me on my way to the mines; and the journey, rough as it was, during the most inclement season of the year, and reaching to a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, I performed <HI REND="italics">on foot</HI>
075.sgm:<P>What is to be the result, pecuniarily, of this trip, is yet to be answered.  I have a mining claim, which, with all my industry and economy, has only yielded me a living.  It may improve--I may make a "strike"--but this is mere speculation.  Time alone can tell.  I like mining much--hard work though it be--and am resolved to follow it as a business for the remnant of my days, or until I have a competence.  There is a charm--an inexpressible something, inherent in the pursuit--which carries a man through the day's toil with unabated energy.  It is a feeling akin to that which leads men to the gaming table, to wild speculations, or to hazardous undertakings; and each succeeding day finds a miner as eager as ever to continue the search after the hidden treasure.  The gold has a different appearance, a greater intrinsic value in his eyes, than that which is acquired in any other way.  He is the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>It is away up on the head waters of Trinity river, or rather on one of its tributaries, that my cabin rears its humble proportions.  With no neighbors nearer than one mile--the mountains rising high above and all around me--encompassed by a forest of pine and spruce--in the midst of wild beasts, wild cats, catamounts, grizzlies and lions--I am leading a genuine backwoods life.  It is needless to say that its novelty charms me, and that I glory in the most perfect independence.  Nor is this all.  Flowers, beautiful, rich, rare, bedeck the mountain sides, (for this is May, the month of flowers,) and I can gather a bouquet that would shame those of civilized gardens.  Nature defies art, and Nature's gems stand proudly, unrivaled and unapproached.  And yet this is not all.  There is a little bird who sits and warbles, almost all day long, the sweetest melody I ever heard.  Up in the foliage of a huge pine, adjacent to my cabin, dwells the pretty songster; and I speak but the truth when I say that beside him a canary would hang its head.  My wild-wood warbler reigns the king of songsters.</P>
075.sgm:<P>My furniture arrangements are not, as yet, finished.  I have neither table nor chairs.  Supported at one end by a sack of potatoes, at the other by my left hand, is the board on which this sheet is laid, while your humble friend sits on the ground, <HI REND="italics">a la Turk</HI>
075.sgm:<P>I remain your attached friend,<LB><HSEP>&ast; &ast; &ast;</P>
075.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>And now listen to what the District Attorney for the county of San Francisco says.  In a speech which he delivered some time ago in a criminal case in the city of San Francisco, he makes use of the following language:--"Twelve hundred murders have been committed in this city within the last four years, and only one of the murderers has been convicted!"  What a striking comment is this upon California justice!  Twelve hundred murders in the city of San Francisco alone, within the space of four years, and only one conviction!  But it is unnecessary for me to lengthen my remarks upon these subjects.  If additional evidences of the corruption and rottenness of affairs in California are required, all that is necessary is to look into the papers that come from that State, and the desired knowledge will soon be obtained.  Here, however, let me simply say that it is impossible to get at the real, naked facts from the California journals.  Almost every newspaper in the State is under the control of interested parties, and they will not allow the truth to be spoken when it conflicts with their schemes and projects.  Nevertheless, enough may be learned from them to convince any reasonable person of the correctness of my description of California.</P>
075.sgm:<P>Thus, then, I have given a fair and truthful statement of what I saw, and those who are not yet convinced must go and test the matter for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>The absence of all social feeling, of refinement, of the little elegancies of life, is painfully manifest.  It would, of course, be absurd to expect in a new country all the luxuries of an old civilization, but their absence constitutes no excuse for the total want of even the decencies of life.  Law is a nullity, or at best a mere nominal thing; order does not exist except where the dread of the bowie-knife or the revolver enforces it.  Men of notoriously bad character are intrusted with the management of affairs, and are easily accessible to bribery.  Justice is proverbially venal, legislation is utterly corrupt.  Such a loose administration of public affairs would be productive of bad results any where, but its influence is especially malign in California, where so many desperate men are to be found, determined, at every hazard, to better their fortunes.  Murder, robbery and swindling are the methods by which they aim to increase their income, the law being powerless to check them.</P>
075.sgm:<P>We have called attention to the general barrenness of the soil, and endeavored to impress upon the reader's mind a conviction of the great uncertainties of mining.  What then remains to attract the emigrant?  The feverish excitement of speculation, which entices so many only to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
075.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
075.sgm:<P>Of the condition of females in that State, it is useless for me to speak.  I have already said enough on that subject, and it becomes every man who thinks of emigrating thither, to ponder well the risks to which he will subject the ladies of his family.  The enormities chargeable upon California in this respect would be difficult to parallel in any age of the world.  They are of so gross a nature that it is impossible even to allude to them in a book which may be seen by women.</P>
075.sgm:<P>And now, after having well considered all these things, after having become thoroughly acquainted with the facts I have been at the pains to collect and record, I would again ask my reader, Are you going to California?</P>
075.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
077.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-077</TITLE>
077.sgm:<TITLE>California illustrated; including a description of the Panama and Nicaragua routes.  By J.M. Letts: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
077.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
077.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
077.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
077.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
077.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
077.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
077.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>29-7555</LCCN>
077.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
077.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
077.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P><illus entity="a077-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON STONE BY J. CAMERON<LB>PANAMA, FROM THE BATTERY,<LB><HI REND="italics">Cerro Lancon in the background.</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA ILLUSTRATED:</P>
077.sgm:<P>INCLUDING</P>
077.sgm:<P>A DESCRIPTION</P>
077.sgm:<P>OF THE</P>
077.sgm:<P>PANAMA AND NICARAGUA ROUTES.</P>
077.sgm:<P>BY J. M. LETTS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>With Forty-Eight Illustrations.</P>
077.sgm:<P>FOURTH THOUSAND.</P>
077.sgm:<P>NEW YORK:</P>
077.sgm:<P>R. T. YOUNG, 140 FULTON-STREET.</P>
077.sgm:<P>1853.</P>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852.</P>
077.sgm:<P>BY J. M. LETTS,</P>
077.sgm:<P>In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York.</P>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Note to the Reader.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>I HAVE, in these pages, endeavored to convey a correct impression, I have stated such facts <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
077.sgm: as I knew to be facts, and interspersed them with incidents that fell under my own observation.  A season's residence in the mineral regions enabled me to obtain a correct <HI REND="italics">interior view</HI>
077.sgm: of life in California.  The illustrations are truthful, and can be relied upon as faithfully portraying the scenes they are designed to represent.  They were drawn upon the spot, and in order to preserve characteristics, <HI REND="italics">even the attitudes</HI>
077.sgm:<P>THE AUTHOR.</P>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Contents.</HEAD>
077.sgm: Mica--Sutterville--Primitive Mode of Life--Sacramento City--An Individual who had "seen the Elephant,"<HSEP>56<LB>CHAPTER TWELFTH.--Sutter's Fort--A Herd of Cattle--"Lassoing"--Rio de los Americanos--A Disappointed Hunter--A Californian Serenade--A Mule and his Rider--Parting Company--Thirst--Serenades supported by Direct Taxation--Sierra Nevada,<HSEP>63<LB>CHAPTER THIRTEENTH.--Venison--First View of the Gold Regions--Surrounding Scenery--"Mormon Bar"--A Pocket--My Machine in Motion--Certainty of Success--First Dinner--"Prospecting"--A Good "Lead"--Disappointed Miners--A New Companion--A Higher Point on the River--Volcanoes--Snowy Mountain--Auburn--Lonely Encampment,<HSEP>70<LB>CHAPTER FOURTEENTH.--A Sea Captain as Cook--A Herd of Deer--Return to Mormon Bar--Keeping House--Our Machine in Motion--$1,500 in One Hour--An Elopement--Wash Day--Sporting--Prospecting--Discovery of Gold--Excitement--Fatigue--The Cakes "hurried up"--Incentives to Exertion--Canalling a Bar,<HSEP>80<LB>CHAPTER FIFTEENTH.--Start for Sacramento City--The "Niagara Co."--Frederick Jerome--A Love Chase--Heroine under a Blanket--Suspicious Boots--Part of a Lady's Hat found--A Ball--Arrival at Sacramento City--Poor Accommodations--Return to the Interior--A Chase--A New York Merchant--Beals' Bar--Embark in Trade--A Mountaineer--Indian Characteristics,<HSEP>87 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:CHAPTER SIXTEENTH.--The Mormons--The attempted Murder of Gov. Boggs--Canalling Mormon Bar--False Theories in reference to Gold Deposits--Influence of Amasa Lyman, "the Prophet"--Exciting Scene--Jim returns--A Monte Bank "Tapped"--Jim's Advent at Sacramento City,<HSEP>95<LB>CHAPTER SEVENTEENTH.--False Reports and their Influences--Daily Average--Abundance of Gold--Original Deposit--"Coyotaing"--Sailors--Their Success and Noble Characteristics--Theatrical Tendencies--Jack in the After-Piece--Miners on a "Spree"--The Wrong Tent,<HSEP>101<LB>CHAPTER EIGHTEENTH.--Arrivals--Preparation for the Rainy Season--New Discoveries--Coloma--Gamblers <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
077.sgm: "--Ox <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
077.sgm: Donkey--Same Medicine prescribed--Lake Nicaragua--Grenada--A "Priest" in a Convent--"Our" Horse--A Group of Islands--Cross the Lake--Mr. Derbyshire's Plantation--Breakfast--Bullocks stepping on Board--Sail for San Carlos--Magnificent Scene--A Hymn of Thanks--A Mountain City--Gold Mines--Arrival at San Carlos--Custom House Regulations repudiated,<HSEP>157<LB>CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVENTH.--Passage down the San Juan River--Castilian Rapids--The "Director"--Arrival at San Juan--Boarded by a Posse of Negroes--British Protectorate--Philanthropy of Great Britain--Her Magnanimous and Disinterested Conduct towards the Nations of the Earth--Nicaragua graciously remembered--A Hunt for a Sovereign--A Full-Grown King Discovered--His Diplomacy--Invincibility--Amusements and Coronation--His First Pair of Pantaloons--Hail "King of the Mosquito Coast"!!!--All hail, Jamaca I.!!!--"Hear! hear!!!"<HSEP>163<LB>CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHTH.--Sail for Home--Pass the "Golden Gate"--Sad Condition of the Passengers--Graves at the Base of the Snowy Mountains--Land Recedes--Luxuries on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:Board--A Death and Burial--Another Death--Whales and Porpoises <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
077.sgm:</FRONT><BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter First.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>SAIL FROM NEW YORK--OUR PILOT LEAVES US--LAND RECEDES FROM VIEW--SEA-SICKNESS--A WHALE--ENTER THE GULF STREAM--ENCOUNTER A GALE--ENTER THE TROPIC OF CANCER--"LAND, HO!"--CAYCOS AND TURK'S ISLANDS--ST. DOMINGO--CUBA--ENTER THE CARIBBEAN SEA--SPORTING--SUNDAY--STANDING IN FOR THE PORT OF CHAGRES--BEAUTIFUL SCENE--DROP ANCHOR.</P>
077.sgm:<P>DEAR READER:--If you have visited California, you will find nothing in these pages to interest you; if you have not, they may serve to kill an idle hour.  On the 27th of January, 1849, having previously engaged passage, I had my baggage taken on board the bark "Marietta," lying at Pier No. 4, East River, preparatory to sailing for Chagres, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>We had now passed Sandy Hook, and putting our helm down, we stood away to the South.  The wind being light, we bent on studding sails, and were soon making our course at the rate of five knots.  The excitement had now subsided; and, as the hills were fast receding, we were most painfully admonished that we were leaving home and friends.  We soon sunk the highest points of land below the horizon, and felt that we were fairly launched upon the ocean, and that we were traveling to a scene of adventure, the result of which no one could divine.  We felt that sinking of spirit one only feels on such occasions; and, at this particular time, clouds as dark as night hung in the horizon of the future.  Night came on, and with it a stiff breeze, creating a heavy sea.  This caused most of the passengers to forget their friends, and bestow their undivided care upon themselves.</P>
077.sgm:<P>For some cause, at this particular juncture, the passengers were affected with peculiar sensations, mostly in the region of the stomach.  They did not think it was sea-sickness.  Whatever the cause may have been, the effect was most distressing.  It assumed an epidemic form.  The symptoms were a sickening sensation and nausea at the stomach; the effect, distressing groans and copious discharges at the mouth.  The captain felt no alarm; said he had had similar cases before on board his ship.  The night was spent in the most uncomfortable manner imaginable.  Many of the passengers, too sick to reach their berths, were lying about on deck, and at every surge would change sides of the vessel.  All being actuated by the same impulse, performed the same evolutions.</P>
077.sgm:<P>With the dawn of the 28th, the wind lulled, and our canvas was again spread to a three knot breeze.  At noon we took our first observation, and at evening passed a ship, although not within speaking distance.  The dawn of the 29this accompanied by a seven-knot breeze, and we stand away on our course with all sail set.  At 3 P.M., we were saluted by a whale, and at 4 entered the Gulf Stream.  We here first observe luminous substances in the water, which at night appear like an ocean of fire.  During the night it blew a gale, and we ran under double-reefed topsails, with mainsail furled. 30th. Leave the Gulf Stream, the wind blowing a terrific gale.  We are tossed about on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>1st Feb. Pleasant; all appear at table; enter the trade winds; hoist studding-sails; lovely day; 4, P.M., mate catches a dolphin, and brings him on deck.   2d. Calm summer day.  3d. All on deck extremely pleasant.   4th. Sunday; pleasant; pass a ship; fine breeze; throw the log; are running eight knots.  5th. Pass through schools of flying-fish, one of which flies on board.  We enter the tropic of Cancer.  A flock of black heron are flying through the air; we take an observation; are eighty miles from Caycos and Turk's Island; making for the Caycos passage.  7th. 5, P.M. The captain discovers land from the mast-head, and we are cheered with the cry of "Land, Ho!"  We pass around Caycos Island, and through the passage; and on the morning of the 8th, are in sight of St. Domingo, sixty miles distant.  It looms up from the horizon like a heavy black cloud.   9th. Pass the island of Cuba, and on the 10th enter the Caribbean Sea.  We passed near the island of Nevassa, a small rocky island, inhabited only by sea-fowl.  They mistaking our vessel for a fowl of a larger species, came off in flocks, until our rigging was filled, and the sun almost obscured.  They met with a <HI REND="italics">foul</HI>
077.sgm:<P>11th. Thermometer standing at 80&deg;.  We are carried along with a three-knot breeze; our ship bowing gracefully to the undulations of the sea.  It being Sunday, home presents itself vividly to our imagination.  13th. Standing in for the coast of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>A most beautiful scene is spread out before us; we are making directly for the mouth of the river, the left point of the entrance being a bold, rocky promontory, surmounted by fortifications.  (See Plate).  The coast to the left is bold and rocky, extending a distance of five miles, and terminating in a rocky promontory, one of the points to the entrance of Navy Bay, the anticipated terminus of the Panama railroad.  The coast to the right is low, stretching away as far as the eye can reach.  In the background is a succession of elevations, terminating in mountains of considerable height, the valleys, as well as the crests of the hills, being covered with a most luxuriant growth of vegetation, together with the palm, cocoa-nut, and other tropical trees of the most gigantic size.  As we neared the port, we passed around the steamer Falcon, which had just come to anchor, and passing on to within half a mile of the mouth of the river, we rounded to, and let go our anchor.</P>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Second.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>NATIVES AND "BUNGOES"--CRESCENT CITY ARRIVES--WE SAIL INTO THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER--PREPARE FOR A FIGHT--FASHIONS AND FORTIFICATIONS--AN HONEST ALCALDE--NON-FULFILLMENT OF CONTRACTS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>OUR attention was first attracted to the natives who were rowing off to us in "bungoes," or canoes of immense size, each manned by eight, ten, or twelve natives, apparently in a state of nudity.  Their manner of propelling their craft was as novel as their appearance was ludicrous.  They rise simultaneously, stepping up on a high seat, and, uttering a peculiar cry, throw themselves back on their oars, and resume their former seats.  This is done with as much uniformity as if they were an entire piece of machinery.  In the afternoon the Crescent City came to anchor, together with several sailing vessels, bringing, in all, about one thousand passengers.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We remained outside until the 17th, when we weighed anchor and passed into the mouth, making fast to the right bank, now called the American side of the river.  We found an abundance of water in the channel, but at the entrance several dangerous rocks.  As this coast is subject to severe northers, it is an extremely difficult port to make.  The steamers still anchor some two miles out.  We found several vessels near the mouth, beached and filled.</P>
077.sgm:<P>It was amusing to see the passengers preparing to make their advent on land.  It is well understood that no one started for California without being thoroughly fortified, and as we had arrived at a place, where, as we thought, there must be, at least, <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
077.sgm: fighting to do, our first attention was directed to our <HI REND="italics">armor</HI>
077.sgm:.  The revolvers, each man having at least two, were first over-hauled, and the six barrels charged.  These were put in our belt, which also contained a bowie knife.  A brace of smaller <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:pistols are snugly pocketed inside our vest; our rifles are liberally charged; and with a cane in hand, (which of course contains a dirk), and a <HI REND="italics">slung shot</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We crossed the river to Chagres, which consists of about thirty huts constructed of reeds, and thatched with palm-leaves, the inhabitants, the most squalid set of beings imaginable.  They are all good Catholics, but do not go to the Bible for the fashions.  There are fig-leaves in abundance, yet they are considered by the inhabitants quite superflous, they preferring the garments that nature gave them, sometimes, however, adding a Panama hat.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We visited the fortifications, which were in a dilapidated state, the walls fast falling to decay.  The only sentinels at the time of our visit, were three goats and two children.  (See Plate.)  It has a commanding position, and has been a work of much strength, but the guns are now dismounted, and the inhabitants ignorant of their use.  In returning from the fort, we crossed a stream where a party of <HI REND="italics">ladies</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We had contracted with the Alcalde for canoes to carry us up the river.  The steamboat Orus, then plying on the river, having contracted to take up the Falcon's passengers, had offered an advanced price, and secured all the canoes, including ours.  Our Alcalde had been struck down to the highest bidder, and I will here say that, although many charges have been brought against the New Grenadians, they have never been accused of fulfilling a contract, especially if they could make a " <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The trunks of the steamers' passengers, particularly those of the Crescent City, were landed on the bank of the river, while their owners were endeavoring to secure passage up.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:"bungoes" had all gone up with the Orus.  There were left two or three small canoes, and the scenes of competition around these were exciting, and often ludicrous in the extreme.  Now a man would contract for passage for himself and friend, and while absent to arrange some little matter preparatory to a start, some one would offer the worthy <HI REND="italics">Padrone</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Third.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>FIRST ATTEMPT AT BOAT BUILDING--EXCITEMENT "ON 'CHANGE"--A LAUNCH AND CLEARANCE--THE CREW--A MUTINY--QUELLED--POOR ACCOMMODATIONS--A NIGHT IN ANGER--AN ANTHEM TO THE SUN--NATURE IN FULL DRESS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>WE saw but one alternative, which was, to construct a boat ourselves, and work it up the river.  Upon this we decided, and purchasing the temporary berths of our vessel, soon had a boat on the stocks, 6 feet by 19, and in three days it was afloat at the side of the "Marietta," receiving its freight.  We called it the " <HI REND="italics">Minerva</HI>
077.sgm:," and she was probably the first American-bottom ever launched at this port.  A misfortune here befel me which I will relate somewhat minutely, as it was undoubtedly the cause of the death of a party concerned.  In going out one morning to assist in the construction of the boat, I left my vest, which had a sum of money sewed up in the upper side pocket, in my berth, covered in such a manner I thought no one could discover it.  I did not give it a thought during the day, but on going to my berth in the evening, I noticed the covering had been disturbed, and as my room-mates were in the habit of helping themselves to prunes, from a box in my berth, I imagined they had discovered and taken care of it.  I was the more strongly impressed that this was the case from the fact that they had frequently spoken of my carelessness.  I immediately saw them; they had seen nothing of it.  Watches were stationed and the ship searched, but no trace of the money.  A person who had had access to the cabin on that day for the first time was strongly suspected, but no trace of the money found.  Our suspicions, however, were well founded, as the sequel will show.  The passengers very kindly offered to make up a part of the loss, but as I had a little left I most respectfully declined its acceptance.  We had about 3000 lbs. of freight and nine persons, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:and at 2 P.M.,  22d Feb., gave the word, "let go," run up our sail, and as it was blowing a stiff breeze from the ocean, glided rapidly along up the river, our worthy captain, Dennison, and his accomplished mate, Wm. Bliss, of the "Marietta," calling all hands on deck, and giving us three times three as we parted, to which <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We have now arrived at the bend of the river, and as here is a spring of excellent water, we make fast and fill our water-keg.  Water is obtained here for the vessels in port, by sending up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>We moved along with much spirit until about eleven o'clock, when there were symptoms of disaffection.  Some were weary, others sleepy; some declared they would work no longer, others that the boat should not stop.  We had all the premonitory symptoms of a mutiny.  It was suggested that we should uncork a bottle of brandy, which was accordingly done, and it was soon <HI REND="italics">unanimously</HI>
077.sgm: declared that our prospects had never appeared so flattering.  I am <HI REND="italics">sure</HI>
077.sgm: our boat was never propelled with such energy.  I am not prepared to say that the brandy <HI REND="italics">didn't</HI>
077.sgm: have an influence.  We moved along rapidly for an hour when we had a relapse of the same disaffection.  We resolved to stop; but we were in a dilemma.  We had left home under the impression that the Chagres river was <HI REND="italics">governed</HI>
077.sgm: by alligators and anacondas, assisted by all the venomous reptiles in the "whole dire catalogue," consequently, to run to the shore was to run right into the jaws of death, which we did not care to do at this particular time.  We pulled along until we came in contact with a limb, which stretched out over the surface of the river, to which we made fast.  After detailing two of the party as a watch, we stowed ourselves away as best we could.  I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Fourth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>BREAKFAST--PRIMITIVE MODE OF LIFE--MEET THE "ORUS"--MUTINY AND RAIN--A STEP BACKWARDS--ENCAMPMENT--A "FORTIFIED" AND FRIGHTENED INDIVIDUAL--SPORTING--MOSQUITOS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>WE moved along until the sun had ascended the horizon, when we made fast to the shore and took breakfast.  Being somewhat fatigued, we remained until after dinner.  We were visited here by two native men and a little boy, all dressed in black, the suits that nature gave them.  They were cutting poles with big knives or machets; they had brought their dinner with them, which consisted of a piece of sugar-cane, a foot in length.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We again manned our oars and worked our boat until about sunset, when we drew along shore at a pleasant point designing to encamp.  Some of the party were anxious to gain a higher point on the river, and we again pushed out.  As we were gaining the middle of the stream, a canoe turned the point containing two boys; they immediately cried out, "vapor! vapor!" (steamboat, steamboat,) and before we could reach the shore, the "Orus" came dashing around the point, throwing her swell over the sides of our boat, and we were near being swamped.  This caused great consternation and excitement, which soon subsided, and we were again under way.  We were, however, destined not to end our day's journey, without additional difficulties.  We worked an hour without finding a suitable place to spend the night.  Those having proposed stopping below, now strongly demurred to going on, and after an <HI REND="italics">eloquent</HI>
077.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">spirited</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We erected an india rubber tent on shore and, laying our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>At 12, Mr. H. thought he heard a strange noise in the forest, approaching the encampment, and in a few minutes uttering a most unearthly yell, he jumped for the boat.  His feet hanging a little "too low on the edge," caught under a root, and he brought up in the river.  This being full of alligators, only added to his fright, and the precise time it took him to get out, I am unable to say.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The morning was again hailed by universal acclamation, and after an early breakfast we resumed our voyage.  We had a pleasant run during the day, stopping frequently to secure pheasants, pigeons, toucans, parrots, &amp;c.  The latter are not very palatable, but we were not disposed to be fastidious, and every thing we shot, except alligators, went into the camp-kettle.  Late in the afternoon we met a bungo, the natives pointing to a tree, the top of which was filled with wild turkeys.  We pulled along under the tree, discharged a volley, and succeeded in frightening them to another.  Having a carbine charged with shot, I brought one to the ground.  I climbed up the bank, but found the forest impenetrable.  The under growth was a dense chaparal, interlaced with vines, every shrub and tree armed with thorns.  I, however, with my <HI REND="italics">machet</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We were here attacked by one of the most ravenous swarms of musquitos it was ever my lot to encounter.  We had promised <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Fifth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>FIRST RAPID--AN UNFORTUNATE INDIVIDUAL--A STEP BACKWARDS--SEVERAL INDIVIDUALS IN A STATE OF EXCITEMENT--TIN PANS NOT EXACTLY THE THING--A BREAKFAST EXTINGUISHED--SPORTING--MONKEY AMUSEMENTS--A "FLASH IN THE PAN"--TWO FEET IN OUR PROVISION BASKET--POVERTY OF THE INHABITANTS AND THEIR DOGS--ARRIVAL AT GORGONA.</P>
077.sgm:<P>MONDAY morning, having an early breakfast, we were again under way.  We shot several alligators, and at 10, A.M., arrived at the first rapid.  We uncorked a bottle of brandy and prepared for hard work.  As Mr. Hush did not help work the boat, ( <HI REND="italics">it was not safe to give him a pole</HI>
077.sgm: ) it was suggested that he should walk.  We commenced the ascent, and after an hour of hard labor, gained the summit.  We drew up along shore, and Mr. H. attempted to jump on board.  His feet, as usual, taking the wrong direction, he stumbled and caught hold of an India rubber bag for support, which not being securely fastened, went overboard.  The current being strong it passed rapidly down, and there was no alternative but to follow it with the boat.  We soon found ourselves going with the greatest velocity, down the rapid we had just toiled so hard to ascend.  We overtook the bag at the foot, and making fast to the shore, we held a <HI REND="italics">very animated</HI>
077.sgm: colloquy, which was embellished with an occasional oath by way of emphasis.  Mr. H. suspected that he was the subject of our animadversions, but there was <HI REND="italics">nothing said</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We again ascended the rapid, and worked on until rain and night overtook us.  We were obliged to encamp on an unpleasant rocky shore, and cook supper in the rain.  We passed an uncomfortable night; and in the morning it was still raining in torrents.  We were furnished with India rubber <HI REND="italics">ponchos</HI>
077.sgm: and were making preparations to start while Mr. Cooper and Mr. Beaty were preparing breakfast.  It was difficult to get <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:fuel, and still more difficult to make it burn.  They however succeeded in kindling the fire.  We usually boiled our coffeewater in the camp-kettle, but this being full of game, we filled a large tin pan with water, and placed it over the fire, supported by three stones.  The ham was frying briskly by the fire, our chocolate dissolving, and every thing going on <HI REND="italics">swimmingly</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Mr. Dodge came to the rescue, and we had a warm breakfast, and were soon under way.  At ten, the sun came out, and we had a pleasant run, using our sail.  We encamped in a delightful place on the left bank of the river, and had a comfortable night's rest.  When we awoke in the morning, the air was filled with parrots, toucans, tropical pheasants, etc.  Our guns were immediately brought into requisition, and we soon procured a full supply, including seven pheasants.  One of the party and myself finding a path that had been beaten by wild beasts resolved to follow it, and penetrate more deeply into the forest.  After going some distance we heard a strange noise, which induced my companion to return.  Being well armed I proceeded on, and soon came upon a party of monkeys taking their morning exercise.  There were about twenty of them, in the top of a large tree.  The larger ones would take the smaller and pretend they were about to throw them off; the little ones, in the mean time, struggling for life.  There was one very large one, with a white face, who appeared to be doing the honors of the occasion, viz., laughing when the little ones were frightened.  If I had been within speaking distance of <HI REND="italics">his honor</HI>
077.sgm:<P>A native was passing, who informed me that there were turkeys on the other side.  I stepped into his canoe, and in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:moment we were climbing the opposite bank.  When within shooting distance I raised my gun; it missed fire, and the turkeys flew away, the native exclaiming " <HI REND="italics">mucho malo</HI>
077.sgm:."  We recrossed, and I soon reached the encampment.  Our game was cooked, and the party ready to embark.  We shoved out, but, unfortunately, Hush had forgotten his bowie knife.  We floated back, he ascended the bank, and succeeded in finding it.  In returning, he found it difficult to reach the boat; the bank being quite abrupt, he, however, determined to jump, and, after making a few peculiar gyrations with his arms, he <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The day was excessively hot, the river rapid, and our progress slow.  In the after part of the day, we passed a rancho where there were a few hills of corn, the first sign of industry we had seen along the river.  One can hardly conceive of a country susceptible of a higher cultivation.  They have a perpetual summer; tropical fruits grow spontaneously; they have the finest bottom lands for rice, tobacco, cotton, corn, or sugar plantations perhaps on this continent; yet, with the exception of a very little corn and sugar, nothing is cultivated.  The enterprise of the States would make the country a paradise.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We encamped at night where the river had a peculiar bend, forming a horse-shoe, and one of the most delightful spots I ever saw.  I selected it for my own use--as a rice and sugar plantation--but have not <HI REND="italics">yet</HI>
077.sgm: had the title examined.  In the middle of the night a canoe passed down in which was the man suspected of having borrowed my vest.  He spoke to one of our party, said he was on his way to Chagres, on business, but would return to Gorgona immediately.  We took an early start in the morning, and at nine stopped at a rancho to purchase cigars.  Such a squalid family I never saw.  There were three women, two or three young ladies, and half a dozen children--none of them were dressed, excepting a little boy who had on a checked palm leaf hat.  We asked for cigars, they had none, but would make some for us, "poco tiempo," (little time).  We couldn't wait.  We were much struck with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:the appearance of the dog, which was so poor that, in attempting to bark at us, it turned a summerset.  We were now not far from Gorgona, and exerted every nerve to reach our destination.  At noon, while at dinner, a young native approached us from the forest, and proposed to help work the boat up to Gorgona.  As he was a tall, athletic young fellow, and <HI REND="italics">didn't charge anything</HI>
077.sgm:, we accepted his proposition, and gave him his dinner.  We were now six miles from Gorgona, and with the aid of our native there was a prospect of arriving in good time.  The river was shallow, with frequent rapids, and, although our boat drew only nine inches water, we were frequently obliged to get out and tow it up.  (See Plate).  Your humble servant is standing on the bow of the boat with a long pole.  Cooper is " <HI REND="italics">boosting</HI>
077.sgm: " at the side.  Hush is doing duty--the first on the rope.  Dodge is in a passion and in the act of addressing some emphatic remark to <HI REND="italics">gentlemen</HI>
077.sgm: on board.  Natives are seen in their canoes, and just above, seated on the limb of a tree, is a monkey who appears to be looking on enjoying the scene.  As we passed under the tree he came down upon one of the lower branches, and seemed disposed to take passage.  An alligator is seen on the bank below, and in the air innumerable parrots.  The noise of these is one of the annoyances of this country, their screeching incessant and intolerable.  Late in the afternoon we arrived within half a mile of Gorgona, which was behind a bend of the river, where our native wished to land.  We soon passed the bend, when the town was in full view, and in a few moments our labors were at an end.  Our friends had felt some solicitation for us.  Seven days was an unusual passage <HI REND="italics">at this season of the year</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Sixth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>CUSTOMS AND DRESS OF THE NOBILITY--A SUSPICIOUS INDIVIDUAL--JOURNEY TO PANAMA--A NIGHT PROCESSION--A WEALTHY LADY IN "BLOOMER"--AN AGREEABLE NIGHT SURPRISE--"HUSH" ON HORSE BACK--CAPTAIN TYLER SHOT--A MOUNTAIN PASS AT NIGHT--THUNDER STORM IN THE TROPICS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>THE town is pleasantly situated about fifty feet above the level of the river, and contains some eight hundred inhabitants.  At the time of our arrival, there were about five hundred Americans encamped in the town.  The buildings are mostly constructed of reed, thatched with palm-leaf.  (See Plate).  A hammock is slung under the eave of one of these houses, occupied by the mother, in the act of administering to the wants of a little one; an open countenanced dog is near, as if waiting to relieve the child, a sen&tilde;ora is shelling corn, and a hog is looking on, one foot raised, in readiness to obey the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The people dress, as in Chagres, with the addition, in some cases, of half a yard of linen and a string of beads.  The Alcalde and his lady were generally well dressed; but, as strange as it may appear, they were always accompanied in their morning walks by their son, a lad of fourteen, his <HI REND="italics">entire</HI>
077.sgm: costume consisting of a Panama hat.  In the evening of the day of our arrival, we observed our worthy boatman making himself familiar around the American tents.  Soon the police were on the alert, and we were informed that he was one of the most notorious thieves in the country.  He had landed back, thinking it safer to come into town at night.  We had our baggage carried up, and were soon residents of the American part of the town.  I was here put in possession of facts which strengthened my suspicions of the individual who passed down the river on the previous night; and, in the sequel, instead of returning to Gorgona, he, on his arrival at Chagres, hired a native to carry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>There was, at this time, no means of conveyance from Panama to San Francisco, and people preferred remaining, and consuming their provisions in Gorgona, to paying exorbitant prices to have it transported to Panama.  After remaining some days I purchased a horse, and started for Panama, twenty-five miles distant.</P>
077.sgm:<P>It is a pleasant ride across, being a succession of mountains and valleys, each valley containing a spring-brook of the purest water.  Two miles out of Gorgona you enter a mule path running through a dense forest, the branches interchanging overhead, forming an arbor sufficiently dense to exclude the sun.  You sometimes pass through gullies in the side of the mountain, sufficiently wide at the bottom to admit the mule and his rider, and looking up, you find yourself in a chasm with perpendicular sides, twenty feet in depth, into which the sun has never shone.  Here, as in all Spanish countries, are numerous crosses, marking the resting-place of the assassin's victim.  When within three miles, the country opens, disclosing to the view the towers of the cathedral, indicating the location of Panama.  The balance of the road is paved with cobble stones, the work of convicts, who are brought out in chain-gangs.  One mile out, you cross the national bridge, a stone structure of one arch; here is also an extensive missionary establishment, now in ruins.  When within half a mile of the wall of the city, you pass a stone tower, surmounted by a cross.  You are now in the suburbs of the city.  The street is paved, and on either side are ruins, some of considerable extent, having been costly residences, with highly cultivated gardens attached.  You pass a plaza, on one side of which is an extensive church.  You now enter between two walls, which gradually increase in height, as you approach the gate, until, crossing a deep moat which surrounds the city, they are joined to the main wall.</P>
077.sgm:<P>On entering the gate the first thing that presents itself is a chapel, where you are expected to return thanks for your safe arrival.  I rode through, put my horse in the court-yard of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>I rose early in the morning, bathed in the Pacific, and after breakfast mounted for Gorgona, where I arrived in the evening.  I went to a <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
077.sgm:, half a mile distant, for sugar-cane for my horse.  I was waited upon by the proprietress who accompanied me to the cane-field, and used the machet with her own hands.  After cutting a supply for the horse, she presented me with a piece for my own use, which I found extremely palatable.  This <HI REND="italics">lady</HI>
077.sgm: is one of the most extensive landholders in New Grenada, and one of the most wealthy.  She lived in a thatched hovel, the sides entirely open, with the earth for a floor.  Her husband was entirely naked, and seemed to devote his attention to the care of the children, of whom there were not less than a dozen, all dressed like "Pa."  She dressed in "Bloomer," i.e., she wore a half-yard of linen, and a palm-leaf hat.  My horse was stolen during the night.  I went to the Alcalde next morning, offered him $5 reward, and before night I was obliged to invest another <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
077.sgm:<P>After remaining a few days I again started for Panama.  It was after noon, and after riding some distance my horse was taken sick.  I stopped until evening, when I again mounted, but was soon obliged to dismount and prepare for spending the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>After mutual congratulations we prepared supper, and were soon seated around the fire, recalling the incidents of our voyage up the river.  The elder Dodge was lying on a trunk near the fire, and late in the evening, as the muleteer was attempting to drive the horses back, one of them took fright, wheeled about, and in attempting to jump over the trunk, his forefeet came in contact with Dodge, knocking him off, and planting his hind feet into his back.  We were struck with horror, supposing him dead, but after straightening him up, and washing his face and head, he was able to speak.  He was still in a critical condition, and we were obliged to attend him during the night.  The next morning, after a long hunt for our horses, we rode a short distance to an American tent, and leaving the Dodges and company, I rode on to Panama.  The next day Mr. Dodge arrived, in a very feeble state of health, but eventually recovered.</P>
077.sgm:<P>In a few days I returned to Gorgona, and sold the "Minerva."  She was drawn up into town, inverted, making the roof of the "United States Hotel," the first framed building erected in Gorgona.  On my way back to Panama, as I had got about half way through, I was surprised at meeting Mr. Hush.  He informed me that he did not think Panama a healthy place, and that he was on his return to the States.  He sat on his horse with a good deal of ease, his feet appearing to have on their best behavior.  He could not get them into the stirrups, still they appeared to go quietly along by the sides of the horse.  Why he thought Panama unhealthy, was a mystery to some.  I am <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:not prepared to say that his party ever <HI REND="italics">insinuated </HI>
077.sgm:<P>I was detained until the sun had disappeared behind the mountain, and it was with some difficulty my horse found his way.  I ascended the next mountain, and in attempting to descend, lost my way.  I dismounted, and after a long search, found the gully through which it was necessary to pass.  There was not a ray of light--it was the very blackness of darkness--and on arriving at the end of the gully, I was again obliged to dismount, and after groping about for half an hour, found what I presumed to be the path.  My horse was of a different opinion.  The matter was discussed--I carried the "point."  After riding a short distance, he stopped, and on examining the path, I found that it dropped abruptly into a chasm twenty feet in depth.  My horse now refused to move in any direction, which left no alternative but to encamp.  I succeeded in finding canebrake, which I cut for him, and spreading out my India rubber blanket, using my saddle as a pillow, I stretched myself out for the night.  A most profound stillness reigned through the forest.  All nature seemed to be hushed in sleep.  Occasionally a limb would crack, struggling with the weight of its own foliage, and once, not far distant, a gigantic tree, a patriarch of the forest, came thundering to the ground.  A slight breeze passed mournfully by, as if sighing its requiem, and again all was still.</P>
077.sgm:<P>This solemnity was painfully ominous.  There appeared to be something foreboding in the very solemnity that reigned.  If <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>In the middle of the night I was attracted by the barking of a monkey, which very much resembled that of a dog.  This called to mind home, and caused many a bright fancy to flit through my imagination.  I was soon, however, drawn from my reverie by the low muttering of distant thunder, portending an approaching deluge, which, in this climate, invariably follows.  It grew near, and was accompanied by the most vivid flashes of lightning.  This revealed to me my situation.  I was on the side of the mountain, at the base of an almost perpendicular elevation, which was furrowed by deep gullies, giving fearful token of approaching devastation.  Very near was a gigantic palm-tree, the earth on the lower side of which appeared to have been protected by it.  I removed my saddle and blanket, and my horse, asking to accompany me, was tied near.  The lightning grew more vivid, and the thunder, as peal succeeded peal, caused the very mountains to quake.  The clouds, coming in contact with the peaks, instantaneously discharged the deluge, which, rushing down, carried devastation in its track.  The sight was most terrific.  By the incessant flashes I could see the torrents rushing down, chafing, foaming, and lashing the sides of the mountains, as if the <HI REND="italics">furies</HI>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Seventh.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>PANAMA--CATHEDRAL AND CONVENTS--RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES--AMALGAMATION--FANDANGO.</P>
077.sgm:<P>PANAMA, under the Spanish dominion, was a city of twelve thousand inhabitants, and was the commercial mart of the Pacific.  The old city having been destroyed by buccaneers, the present site was selected.  The military strength of the city is a true index to the state of the country at the time of its construction; and its present condition a lamentable commentary on the ruthless spirit that has pervaded the countries of South America.  The number and extent of the churches and monasteries are a monument to the indomitable zeal and perseverance for which the Catholic Church has been justly celebrated.  Old Panama is seven miles distant.  An ivy-grown tower is all that remains to mark the spot.  The city is inclosed by a wall of much strength, outside of which is a deep moat.  It has one main and one side entrance by land, and several on the water-side.  The base of the wall on the water-side is washed by the ocean at flood tide, but at the ebb the water recedes a mile, leaving the rocks quite bare.  There was formerly a long line of fortifications, but at present the guns are dismounted, excepting on an elbow of the wall, called the "battery."  (See Plate.)  In the centre of the town is the main plaza, fronting which is the cathedral, the government house, and the prison.  (See Plate.)  Here is seen a "Padre," walking with a sen&tilde;orita; an "hombre," mounted on a donkey, with a large stone jar on each side, from which he serves his customers with water; a "chain-gang" of prisoners, carrying bales of <HI REND="italics">carna</HI>
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077.sgm:<P>The principal avenues, running parallel, are "Calle San Juan de Dio," "Calle de Merced," and "Calle de Obispo."  There are numerous extensive churches, the principal one being the cathedral.  This is a magnificent structure, and of colossal dimensions.  In the end fronting the plaza are niches, in which are life-size statues of the twelve Apostles, of marble.  It has two towers, the upper sections of which are finished with pearl.  The interior was furnished without regard to expense.  It is now somewhat dilapidated, but still has a fine organ.  The convent, "La Mugher," is an extensive edifice, being 300 feet in length.  The roof of most parts has fallen in, and the walls are fast falling to decay.  The only tenant is a colored woman who has a hammock slung in the main entrance.  She has converted the convent into a stable, charging a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The people here, as in all catholic countries, are very attentive to religious rites and ceremonies, and almost every day of the week is ushered in by the ringing of church and convent bells.  The ringing is constant during the day; and people are seen passing to and from church, the more wealthy classes accompanied by their servants, bearing mats, upon which they kneel on their arrival.  Almost every day is a saint's day, when all business is suspended to attend its celebration.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Good Friday is the most important on the calendar.  All business is suspended, all attend church during the day, and at night they congregate <HI REND="italics">en-masse</HI>
077.sgm: in the plaza in front of one of the churches outside the walls.  Inside the church, held by a native in Turkish costume, is an ass, mounted on which is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>The priests are quite ultra in their dress, wearing a black silk gown, falling below the knee, black silk tights, patent-leather shoes, fastened with immense silver buckles, a black hat, the brim of the most ungovernable dimensions, rolled up at the sides and fastened on the top of the crown.  Their zeal in religion is equalled only by their passion for gaming and cock-fighting.  It appears strange to see men of their holy calling enter the ring with a cock under each arm, gafted for the sanguinary conflict, and, when the result is doubtful, enter into a most unharmonious wrangle, with the <HI REND="italics">faithful</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The citizens of Panama are composed of all grades of color, from the pure Sambo, (former slaves or their descendants,) to the pure Castilian.  The distinctive lines of society are not very tightly drawn.  At the fandangoes all colors are represented, and a descendant of Spain will select, as a partner, one of the deepest dye.  In this hot climate the waltz or quadrille soon throws all parties into a most profuse perspiration, which causes <HI REND="italics">that other</HI>
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077.sgm:characteristic of the African race to manifest itself.  I would recommend my American friends to select partners of the lighter color, as I am not prepared to say the <HI REND="italics">odor</HI>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Eighth</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>BAY OF PANAMA--ISLANDS--SOLDIERS--ARRIVAL OF $1,000,000 IN GOLD AND SILVER--A CONDUCTA--"BUNGOES" "UP" FOR CALIFORNIA--WALL STREET REPRESENTED--SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO--CHIMBORAZO--CROSS THE EQUATOR--A CALM--A DEATH AT SEA.</P>
077.sgm:<P>IN the bay of Panama (called the "Pearl Archipelago," from the numerous pearls obtained in its waters,) there are innumerable islands, all of great fertility, supplying the city with vegetables, tropical fruits, eggs, fowls, &amp;c. (See Plate.)  It is from these islands vessels are supplied with provisions and water, the latter being obtained at Toboga, one of the largest of the group.  A more enchanting scene than is presented from the higher points of these islands, cannot be imagined.  The bay as placid as a mirror, Panama in full view, with mountains rising in the background.  Looking along down the coast of South America, you see a succession of lofty mountains, some by their conical peaks proclaiming their volcanic origin, some still clouded in smoke, giving token of the fierce struggle that is going on within.  Still farther to the right the bay opens into the broad Pacific; that little ripple that is now running out, will go on gathering strength, until it breaks upon the shores of the "Celestial Empire."  Still farther to the right; a tower, shrouded in ivy, seems weeping over the tomb of a city.</P>
077.sgm:<P>In the background mountain succeeds mountain, until the last is buried in clouds.  Ships and steamers are lying quietly at anchor; numerous islands are blooming at your feet, clothed with tropical fruits, growing and ripening spontaneously.  Nature reigns supreme, the hand of man has not marred her perfection; if his rude habitation is sometimes seen, it is nestling quietly in the bosom of some grove planted by the hand of Nature, interlaced by vines, their tendrils entwining, forming an arbor over his head, and presenting fruit and wine at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>The markets of Panama, as well as the retail trade in other departments, are under the supervision of females.  They are generally well supplied with every variety of fruit from the islands, together with eggs, fowls, &amp;c.  The beef and pork are sold by the <HI REND="italics">yard</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The citizens of Panama, as well as of other tropical countries, have the happy faculty of devoting most of their time to the pursuit of pleasure, i.e., they divide time between business and pleasure, giving to the latter a great predominance.  Before the innovations made by "los Americanos," stores were open from 9 to 10 A.M., and 4 to 5 P.M., the balance of the day was spent in smoking, drinking coffee, chocolate, or cocoa, gambling, cock-fighting, attending church, or wooing sleep in hammocks.  The city is generally healthy, yet at some seasons of the year, is subject to fevers of a malignant type.  It has been visited several times by that scourge the cholera, which swept off many of its inhabitants, and, at one time, seemed destined to depopulate the country.  The priests clad themselves in sackcloth, and devoted every moment to the rites of the church, burning incense and invoking the patron saint of the city to stay the ravages of the disease.  The vaults in which the dead <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>The city has a small garrison of soldiers, their only duty being to guard the prison, and conduct prisoners out in chain-gangs to labor, paving the streets, repairing the walls, carrying goods, &amp;c.  A gang will be seen in front of the cathedral, in the accompanying plate.  The appearance of the under-officers, is ludicrous in the extreme.  They are seen parading the streets with an air of authority, in full uniform, and barefooted.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Soon after my arrival at Panama, one of the British steamers came in from Valparaiso with $1,000,000 in gold and silver.  This was deposited in front of the custom-house, and guarded during the night by soldiers; and, in the morning, packed on mules, preparatory to crossing the Isthmus.  It required thirty-nine mules to effect the transportation.  A detachment of nine first started, driven by a single soldier, armed with a musket, and barefooted.  The second, third, and fourth detachments started at intervals of half an hour, each guarded like the first.  The mules were driven in droves, without bridle or halter.  The route being through an unbroken forest of twenty-five miles, it would seem a very easy matter to rob the "conducta."  But, strange to say, although $1,000,000 per month, for several years, has passed over the route, no such attempt has ever been made.  In the immediate vicinity, and overlooking the city, is a mountain called "Cerro Lancon," which was once fortified by an invading foe, from which the city was bombarded and taken.  On the summit a staff is now seen, from which the stars and stripes float proudly in the breeze.  This was erected by the Panama Railroad Company, to point out, during the survey, the location of the city.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Great anxiety was felt by the Americans at Panama to proceed on to California.  The sun had passed overhead, and was settling in the north, indicating the approach of the rainy season.  Many were sick of the fever, many had died, which added to the general anxiety.  Many had procured steamer tickets before leaving home.  The steamers had passed down to San Francisco, been deserted by their crews, and were unable to return, and there were no seaworthy vessels in port.  The indomitable go-a-head-ativeness of the Yankee nation could not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:remain dormant, and soon several "bungoes" were "up" for California.  Schooners of from thirteen to twenty-five tons, that had been abandoned as worthless, were soon galvanized, by pen and type, into " <HI REND="italics">the new and fast sailing schooner</HI>
077.sgm:."  These were immediately filled up at from $200 to $300 per ticket, passengers finding themselves.  In the anxiety to get off, a party purchased an iron boat on the Chagres River, carried it across to Panama on their shoulders, fitted it out, and sailed for California.  The first "bungo" that sailed, after getting out into the bay some three or four miles, was struck by a slight flaw of wind, dismasted, and obliged to put back for repairs.  This caused a very perceptible decline in "bungo" stocks.  Many took passage in the British steamer for Valparaiso, in hopes to find conveyance from that port.  The passengers of one of " <HI REND="italics">the fast sailing schooners</HI>
077.sgm: " when going on board, preparatory to sailing, found that the owners, in their <HI REND="italics">zeal to accommodate their countrymen</HI>
077.sgm:, had sold about three times as many tickets as said vessel would carry.  Instead of allowing fourteen square feet to the man, as the law requires, they appear to have taken the <HI REND="italics">exact-dimensions</HI>
077.sgm: of the passengers, and filled the vessel accordingly.  The passengers refused to let the captain weigh anchor, and sent a deputation on shore to demand the return of their money; but lo! the disinterested gentlemen were "nonest inventus."  After a long search, they succeeded in finding one of the worthies, and notwithstanding his disinterested efforts in behalf of the <HI REND="italics">public</HI>
077.sgm:<P>One circumstance that added much to the annoyance of our detention was, that the letters from our friends were all directed to San Francisco, and were then lying in the letter-bags at Panama, but not accessible to us.  I felt this annoyance most sensibly.  I would have given almost any price for one word of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>The prospect, at this time, of getting passage to California was extremely doubtful, and many returned to the States.  During the latter part of April, however, several vessels arrived in port, and were "put up" for San Francisco.  I had sent to New York for a steamer ticket--which was due, but there being no steamer in port, and being attacked with the fever, I was advised to leave at the earliest possible moment.  I secured passage in the ship "Niantic," which was to sail on the 1st of May.  On the morning of that day bungoes commenced plying between the shore and ship, which was at anchor some five miles out, and at 4 P.M., all the passengers were on board.  The captain was still on shore, and there was an intense anxiety manifested.  Many had come on board in feeble health; some who had purchased tickets had died on shore; many on board were so feeble that they were not expected to live.  I was one of the number; we all felt that getting to sea was our only hope, and all eyes were turned toward shore, fearing the captain might be detained.  At half-past five his boat shoved off, when all on board were electrified.  As he neared the ship all who were able prepared to greet him, and some, whose lungs had been considered in a feeble and even precarious state, burst out into the most vociferous acclamations.  The captain mounted the quarter-deck and sung out, "Heave ahead," when the clanking of the chain and windlass denoted that our anchor was being drawn from its bed.  At half-past six the "Niantic" swung from her moorings, and was headed for the mouth of the "Gulf of Panama."  Again the shouts were deafening.  No reasonable politician could have wished a greater display of enthusiasm, and a nominee would consider his election quite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:certain, whose pretensions were backed up by two hundred and forty pairs of <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
077.sgm:<P>In the morning we were running down along the coast of South America, the captain wishing to cross the equator, in order to fall in with the trade winds.  We passed along very near the coast, having the Andes constantly in view, some of the peaks towering up, their heads buried in the blue ether of Heaven.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We were often saluted by whales, sometimes coming up near the ship, throwing up a column of water, and passing under our keel, displaying to us their gigantic dimensions.  We would sometimes run into schools of porpoises, extending almost to the horizon in every direction.  We were constantly followed by sharks, accompanied by their pilots--the latter a most beautiful fish, from eight to twelve inches in length, striped in white and grey.  It seemed strange that they should have been created to act as pilots to the "terror of the deep."  The shark is always accompanid by one, and sometimes two or three.  They generally swim a little in advance, but sometimes nestle along on the back of their huge master--as if to rest, and in case of emergency, are said to take refuge in his mouth.</P>
077.sgm:<P>On the 6th we came in sight of "Chimborazo," the highest peak of the Andes, and the highest mountain on the western continent.  It appears to penetrate the very heavens.  It was surrounded by belts or layers of clouds, with sufficient space between to disclose the mountain.  Below and above the first belt there was vegetation, above the second sterility, above the third, and towering on up, a covering of eternal snow.</P>
077.sgm:<P>On the 12th we reached the Gallipagos islands; a group of volcanic formation, directly under the equator.  They are not inhabited by man, but are the home of the terrapin.  We passed very near, but as it was almost sunset, we did not lower our boat.  We crossed the equator, and made one degree south <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Ninth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>STAND IN FOR SAN FRANCISCO--INDICATIONS OF LAND--THE COAST--ENTER THE "GOLDEN GATE"--INNER BAY--SAN FRANCISCO--LUMPS OF GOLD--NOTES OF ENTERPRISE--SURROUNDING SCENE--GAMBLING.</P>
077.sgm:<P>WE soon fell in with the north-east trade winds, which carried us along rapidly, causing us to make so much lee-way however, that on arriving at 38&deg; north latitude, (the latitude of San Francisco), we were at 140&deg; west longitude.  We then tacked ship and stood in for the coast of California.  We had baffling winds and calms for several days, but falling in with the north-west trades, we were carried rapidly along, the wind increasing until it blew a gale.  This lasted for two days.  The ship laid over so that her main studding-sail boom touched the water, and on the 1st July the gale carried away our gib.  On the 3d, we discovered weeds and logs floating in the water, indicating our proximity to land.  We take an observation, and ascertain that we are sixty miles from San Francisco.  This we ought to make by 8 o'clock the next morning.  The passengers are all engaged in packing up.  The retorts, crucibles, gold tests, pick-axes, shovels, and tin-pans, are put into a separate bag, and laid on the <HI REND="italics">top</HI>
077.sgm:; each determined to be the first off for the mines.  Each one having conceived a different mode of keeping his gold, one would exhibit an ingenious box with a secret lock, another, a false bottom to his trunk, a fourth a huge belt, while a fifth was at work on the fifteenth buckskin bag, each of 20 lbs. capacity.  All were looking to the glorious future with a faith that would have removed mountains, particularly if they were suspected of having gold concealed underneath.  On the morning of the  4th, the sun rose in a cloud of mist.  We were all expectation and excitement.  Some were at mast-head, others in the shrouds and all on the " <HI REND="italics">qui vive</HI>
077.sgm: " for land.  The fog was so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>At 3 o'clock, P.M., we arrived off a bold rocky promontory, which is the north point to the entrance of the outer bay of San Francisco, called "De los Reys," or King's Point.  We soon changed our course, standing in for the entrance to the inner bay, some twenty miles distant.  The air was filled with geese, brant, loons, ducks, &amp;c.  We here saw the hair-seal, somewhat resembling a tiger.  They would come to the surface, display themselves, and disappear.  We saw, also, a very large whale coming directly toward the ship, alternately diving and reappearing, and the third time he came to the surface, he was quite near us.  He threw up a column of water, and diving headlong toward the bottom, threw his huge tail into the air.  Not wishing to come to anchor before morning, we shortened sail, and all " <HI REND="italics">turned in</HI>
077.sgm:<P>In the morning we were a short distance from the " <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
077.sgm:," the entrance to the inner bay, making for it with a fair breeze.  A large ship was abreast of us, making for the same point.  A schooner spoke us, and wished to pilot us in, but our captain not relishing California price ($200), declined.  The strait through which we were about to pass, is an opening through the coast-range of mountains, about a mile in width, and has the appearance of having been cut through by the action of the inland waters.  The capes at either side are bold, and that on the right is fortified.  We could not have made a more auspicious entrance.  It was a delightful morning, with a fresh breeze, and the tide rushing in at eight knots.  When we had made the entrance, we could see through into the inner bay, directly in the centre of which is an island of considerable elevation, which serves as a beacon to inward-bound vessels.  The passage in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>We were immediately boarded by boatmen, and I was soon in a row-boat on my way to the shore.  On landing, my first move was for the post-office.  I had gone but a few paces in this city of strangers, before some one called my name.  I turned around; he did not recognize my six months' beard, and apologized.  I recognized him as a New York friend, and assured him there was no offence, that I was the identical individual he was looking for.  I accompanied him to his store, where he exhibited several specimens of gold, weighing twenty-seven ounces, twenty-five ounces, and down to a single ounce.  These were no unwelcome sight to me, and served to stimulate the fever.  My greatest anxiety, however, was to hear from home, and with the least possible delay, I hurried to the post office.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:had heard from home but once in six months, and my anxiety and pleasure can well be imagined, when, in answer to my inquiry, I was handed a half-dozen letters.  I went to a restaurant, read my letters, ate a $3.50 beefsteak, and felt as rich as men are generally supposed <HI REND="italics">to feel</HI>
077.sgm:<P>In the morning I took my writing-desk, and climbed to an eminence in the vicinity of the city, to write to my friends at home.  Seating myself under a cluster of small trees which protected me from the sun, I commenced, and, with the exception of an interval for dinner, spent the day in writing.  The scene around me was animated.  Everything appeared to be propelled by the most indomitable perseverance.  The frame of a house would be taken from the ship in the morning, and at night it was fully tenanted.  The clatter of the innumerable hammers, each answered by a thousand echoes, seemed the music by which the city was being marshalled into existence.  Ships were constantly arriving; coming to anchor a mile out, they would immediately disgorge their cargoes, which, taken by lighters, were conveyed to the shore, and thrown into heaps, their owners running about to contract for their immediate transportation into the interior.  Others were seen rowing off to vessels, which, after receiving their complement of passengers, would weigh anchor and stand for the strait, which is the joint mouth of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Towards evening the scene became less animated, and the noise more subdued.  I could but look with admiration upon the heightened beauty of the scene, as Nature was about to repose.  A smile of approbation seemed to play upon her countenance as she was taking the last view of this, the perfection of her works.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The sun is almost down, tinging only some of the highest peaks of the surrounding mountains.  The city, extending from the bay up the left base and side of the mountain, is about to cease her notes of enterprise, and light her lamps.  At the base, directly under my feet, is an encampment of one hundred tents, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:occupied by Americans and Chilians.  Two hundred ships are lying at anchor, displaying their various ensigns, comprising almost all the commercial nations of the world; and looming up conspicuously in the offing, is the man-of-war, "Gen. Warren," her majestic appearance proclaiming the superiority of American naval architecture.  But the most striking feature in the scene is this beautiful bay; surrounded by mountains which protect it from the winds, it sleeps in perpetual calm, the flood and ebb tide carrying vessels in and out, at from seven to eight knots an hour.  At this moment, althought the wind is blowing in the mountains, the bay is as placid as a mirror.  In the centre of the bay is a beautiful island, as if nature had set in pearl one of her choicest emeralds.  But "night has let her curtain down, and pinned it with a star."  In the evening I strolled about with my friends, and was surprised to see that all of the best houses on the main streets were gambling houses.  The rooms were brilliantly lighted, and each contained several <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
077.sgm: tables, loaded with gold and silver coin, together with many rich specimens from the mines.  To allure their victims, they were usually furnished with music, a bar, and an interesting sen&tilde;orita to deal the cards.  Gamblers understand that the only <HI REND="italics">sure</HI>
077.sgm: way of making a man courageous is to get him drunk, consequently, at about every second dealing of the cards, all the betters are "treated."  A man bets on a card and loses.  His last drink is beginning to effervesce, and, of course, he is too <HI REND="italics">shrewd</HI>
077.sgm: to let the gambler have his money.  He doubles the bet, putting the money on the same card, thinking that a card must, at least, win every other time.  I have noticed that gamblers are very considerate, always <HI REND="italics">managing</HI>
077.sgm: to throw out just the card the victim wishes to bet upon.  Again he loses, and again is "treated."  His courage is up: the third time <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
077.sgm: card must certainly win.  The "deal" takes place, and, strange to say, <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
077.sgm: card is turned up, and seems to say, in its very face that it is to win.  In order to win back his former losses, he stakes, this time, half his purse.  The other betters and bystanders now begin to manifest an interest in the affair.  The gambler now begins to draw the cards, and, lo! the victim's card don't win.  He is excited; he sees that others are looking at him, and displays the greatest amount of courage by taking another drink, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:calling for another deal.  Again <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
077.sgm: card is turned up.  It cannot possibly lose four times in succession.  He throws on his entire purse.  It is lost.  He goes out penniless.  Another <HI REND="italics">shrewd</HI>
077.sgm: man was standing by, betting small sums on the opposite card, and consequently had won four times in succession.  He had discovered the remarkable <HI REND="italics">fact</HI>
077.sgm:, that the card opposite the above described unlucky one, would <HI REND="italics">invariably</HI>
077.sgm: win.  He determined to make a fortune by his discovery.  The deal takes place, the unlucky card comes out, and he puts a large sum on the <HI REND="italics">other</HI>
077.sgm: one.  The cards are drawn, and, strange as it may seem, the <HI REND="italics">unlucky</HI>
077.sgm: card wins.  This appeared doubly strange to the <HI REND="italics">shrewd</HI>
077.sgm: man.  He took another drink, and felt positive it could not happen so again.  Another deal, and the indefatigable <HI REND="italics">unlucky</HI>
077.sgm: card is again in the field.  Again the shrewd man bets, and again the <HI REND="italics">unlucky</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The bystanders grow a little suspicious.  The cards are again dealt, small bets are made and won by the bystanders.  The gambler "treats," bystanders again bet, win, are "treated," and grow courageous.  A better state of feeling exists; the gambler grows more complacent, and treats oftener.  All are anxious to bet, the gambler is considered one of the best of fellows--one of that kind of men who would a little prefer <HI REND="italics">losing</HI>
077.sgm: money to <HI REND="italics">winning</HI>
077.sgm: it.  Again bets are made and won, and all appear anxious to share the gambler's money, as it is, doubtless, about to be distributed among the <HI REND="italics">fortunate</HI>
077.sgm: bystanders.  All drink and bet liberally; but this time they lose.  This is, however, the first loss, and they bet again, but it so happens that they lose this time also.  They drink and bet again, and again lose.  They now find that they have only half as much money as they commenced with.  They now resolve to recover what they have lost, and quit.  But, alas! when the victim arrives at this point in the drama, he is lost.  He loses every bet, until, seized by a feeling of reckless desperation, he risks <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Hundreds who have never risked, and who think it impossible they ever could risk, a dollar in a game of chance, are daily drawn into the vortex.  They come to town with well-filled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:purses, the proceeds, perhaps, of six months' hard labor, to buy the necessary provisions and clothing, get their letters, &amp;c.  They meet old friends, drink, go to the gambling house, drink again, and finally bet a small amount, and perhaps win.  They bet again, and again win.  A feeling of avarice is now excited, and they risk a large sum. But after repeated bets, with varied success, they discover that they are losers.  They now make the <HI REND="italics">fatal resolve</HI>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER TEN.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>THE "HOUNDS"--VILLAINY--INDIGNATION MEETING--VIGILANCE COMMITTEE.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO was, at this time, infested by a gang of desperados disposed to repudiate all laws, and be governed only by their own fiendish propensities.  They styled themselves "hounds," and neither life nor property were secure against their depredations.  They felt so secure in their strength and numbers, that they did not seek the protection of night, but frequently committed the most revolting crimes at noon-day, and under the eye of the public authorities.  They would enter public houses, demand whatever they wished, always forgetting to pay for the same, and, perhaps, before leaving, demolish every article of furniture on the premises.  This would be a mere prelude or introductory to a night of fiendish revelry.  They would plunder houses, commit the most diabolical acts upon the inmates, murder in case of resistance, then commit the building to the flames to hide their infamy.</P>
077.sgm:<P>On the first Sunday after my arrival, several of the leaders of the gang returned to town, after a few days' absence.  They crossed over from the opposite side of the bay, having with them a fife and drum, the music of which was accompanied by yells, groans and hisses, such as one would only expect to hear from demons.  After landing they marched into the main plaza, and executing a few peculiar evolutions, dispensed with their music, at least the instrumental part of it, and commenced their foray.  I was seated in a restaurant as the captain and five of his followers entered.  He drew up to a table upon which were several glasses, decanters, &amp;c., together with sundry plates of refreshments.  He raised his foot, kicked over the table, smashing the crockery into atoms, then taking his cigar from his mouth said, with the utmost <HI REND="italics">nonchalance</HI>
077.sgm:, and an oath, "waiter, bring me a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>During the night, after committing several robberies, they entered a Chilian tent, and, after committing the most brutal outrages upon the mother and daughter, murdered the former, and in their struggle with the latter, she, after receiving several severe wounds, caught a bowie-knife from the hand of one of them and, after dealing him a deadly blow, made her escape.  She immediately gave the alarm, and although robberies had been committed with impunity, this outrage upon defenceless females, awakened an impulse that was irresistible.  The excitement was most intense; citizens flocked together, armed with a determination to meet out summary punishment to the perpetrators of this inhuman outrage.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Several arrests were made, and, although many were in favor of summary vengeance, better counsel prevailed, and they were put into the hands of the authorities and locked up.  They refused to give any information as to the stolen property, but upon searching the tent of an accomplice, various articles were found, and snugly stowed away in a mattress was a large amount in gold dust, the wages of their infamy.  A few hours after the above arrests, a demonstration was made by accomplices, in order to force open the jail, and release their comrades.  This caused the strongest feelings of indignation, and the citizens assembled <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
077.sgm: in the plaza, all armed to the teeth, determined to avenge this additional aggravation to the atrocious crimes already perpetrated.  They immediately organized themselves into a police, and determined to act with decision upon any proposition that might be sanctioned by the meeting.  Had a resolution passed to hang the prisoners it would have been carried into immediate effect.  Notwithstanding the excitement of the moment, many of the "hounds" had the effrontery to show themselves, and during a speech by one of the citizens, made some menacing jestures, upon which the speaker drew a revolver from his bosom, and with a determined emphasis requested all those who sympathized with the prisoners to separate from the crowd.  Had they complied, the determination manifested in every countenance gave fearful token of the doom that awaited <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>This demonstration secured but five of the numerous horde that infested the city, and it was not to be expected that the arrests of these would prove a salutary check, nor did it.  The desperados stood in greater fear of this self-constituted police than of the regular authorities.  This organization was undoubtedly the germ from which the "Vigilance Committee" eventually grew.  It is well known that, upon the breaking out of the gold excitement, the cities of the world sent forth their vilest scum, consisting of gamblers, pickpockets, murderers, and thieves, and California was the receptacle.  They immediately fraternized, and were at once the most adroit, wily and experienced embodiment of villainy with which the prospects of a city were ever blighted.  They were not men broken down in their <HI REND="italics">profession</HI>
077.sgm: at home, but the very <HI REND="italics">aristocracy</HI>
077.sgm: of crime.  Too well-skilled to be detected, they had escaped the meshes of the law in their own country, and resorted to California for its superior <HI REND="italics">business</HI>
077.sgm: prospects.  As if to have the organization complete, the convict islands of Great Britain vomited forth a herd that seemed almost <HI REND="italics">festering</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The city had grown to the stature of a giant; all were reaping the reward of their enterprise, when on the 5th December following, the torch of the incendiary was applied, and within a few short hours San Francisco was in ashes.  Citizens who had assumed their pillows in wealth awoke in penury.  Many, after a year of toil and anxiety, were preparing to return to their families in affluence, but in one brief moment their dreams of happiness were blighted, and their riches a heap of smouldering ruins.  The city was immediately rebuilt, but citizens had barely entered their new habitations, when it was again devastated by fire.  Again it rose, Phenix-like, from its own ashes, and again business was resumed, but for the third time it was in ruins.</P>
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077.sgm:<P>Persons living in well-regulated communities, and looking at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Eleventh.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>START FOR THE MINERAL REGIONS--BANKS OF THE SACRAMENTO RIVER--SHOT AT--GOLD VS. MICA--SUTTERVILLE--PRIMITIVE MODE OF LIFE--SACRAMENTO CITY--AN INDIVIDUAL WHO HAD "SEEN THE ELEPHANT.</P>
077.sgm:<P>I SPENT the interval between the 5th of July and the 19th in preparing for the mines.  I found many of the miners in town on account of the high state of water in the rivers.  My friends who had visited the interior, spoke discouragingly of the mines, preferring the mercantile business.  But goods were at the time selling at less than New York prices, and rents were enormously high.  Many of the merchants were anxious to sell out and go into the mines, and I came to the conclusion that mining was the only sure way of making a fortune.</P>
077.sgm:<P>On the 19th July I went on board the brig "North Bend," with three men who had been hired in New York and sent out by a company in which I had an interest, and sailed for the Sacramento river.  We crossed the bay, and in an hour were in the strait, running up with a stiff breeze, passing numerous small islands inhabited by water fowl and covered with "guano."  There were innumerable ducks, brant, loons, and geese flying through the air; the scenery delightful, the first fifty miles being a succession of small bays, all studded with islands.  At the right the bank rises gradually to the height of from twenty to fifty feet, covered with wild oats, with an occasional "live oak" tree, and relieved by frequent ravines through which small streams find their way to the strait.  This plain, during the rainy season, furnishes pasture for herds of wild cattle--elk, deer, and antelope, but at this season they had retired to the marshes and lower lands; and the whole of the right bank, as far back as the eye could reach, appeared one immense field of ripened grain.  The left bank, on the immediate margin, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<illus entity="a077-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BETWEEN SACRAMENTO AND THE MINES</P>
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077.sgm:<P>At 12 M., we arrived at Benicia, now a port of entry and United States naval station.  The man of man-of-war, "Southampton," was anchored in the stream--guarding the passage--to prevent smuggling.  As soon as we came in sight they lowered their boat, and pulled out toward the mmiddle of the stream to intercept us, and examine our papers--at the same time hoisting a signal for us to come to.  Our captain was an "old salt," and, in his estimation, the greatest blessing conferred upon man is a fair wind.  He had every inch of canvas set, and manifested a determination not to shorten sail; we were running before a ten-knot breeze, and flew by them like a shadow.  They hailed us, but not being obeyed they fired a gun from the ship, when our captain ordered the helm put down, and in an instant our sails were fluttering in the breeze; we had distanced the jolly-boat--they being obliged to row half a mile against the current to reach us.  The officer boarded us in not the most amiable mood; it was quite apparent that we were enjoying a joke he thought somewhat expensive to himself.  He informed us that a foreign vessel had passed them a few days previous; but they were now on their guard and would have given us the next shot in our rigging.  He pronounced our papers satisfactory, and pulled off for the ship, being most heartily cheered by us.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We were soon under way dashing along at lightning speed; soon arriving at the confluence of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, fifty miles above San Francisco, the latter river coming in from the east, the former from the north.  The strait up which we had sailed, running in the same direction, is called, by many, the Sacramento river.  At the junction of the two rivers there is a marsh, of some extent, in the midst of which is located the "New York of the Pacific," of newspaper notoriety.  I am informed that it now contains <HI REND="italics">one house</HI>
077.sgm:.  There were not so many when we passed up.  It is said there has never been a death in the city.  We soon entered "Sui Sun" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>On landing, we were greeted by one of the most ravenous swarms of mosquitos it was ever my fortune to fall in with.  They seemed to constitute the very atmosphere, and for size and spirit, I think they are without rivals, even in the "Montezuma swamp."  We did not at first retreat, but soon came to the conclusion that game must be poor, where there are so many <HI REND="italics">bills</HI>
077.sgm: presented.  We carried a few of them on board, and they were so well pleased, they remained till morning.  At 10, A.M., the tide flooded us off, and we were again under way.  We soon left the river, and entered what is called the "slough," which is a part of the river running out twenty miles above, and by passing through it, half the distance is saved.  On both sides the "slough," it is densely timbered; the branches hanging over the stream, and many of the trees inclining over, it required the greatest care to avoid their coming in contact with our spars.  We had a fine breeze, and each of the passengers took his turn at the wheel.  None of them attracted the attention of the captain, until it became my turn.  Whether it was that I understood navigation better than my fellow-passengers, I am not prepared to say, but, certain it is, that I had stood at the wheel but a moment, when, without consulting the compass, I found myself at a dead stand in a tree-top.  I did not claim much credit for it, <HI REND="italics">and did not receive any</HI>
077.sgm:<P>After cutting away branches, grapevines, etc., we were again under way, with the captain at the wheel.  He proved as skillful as myself, and made fast to the first tree-top.  We soon ree&die;ntered the main channel, and were passing through a more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>After an hour's absence, they returned with their handkerchiefs filled with something, which was evidently not for the public eye.  It was immediately put under lock and key.  From the self-satisfied air and knowing winks of the three fortunate individuals, it was apparent that their future was full of hope.  After mature reflection, they, no doubt, came to the conclusion, that as there was enough for all, as it was in their power, with a word, to place wealth within the grasp of all, it was their duty to make all happy, without delay, and, with great magnanimity, informed us that they had ascended the stream some distance, and, as they approached the ripple, to their astonishment, they found the water gurgling through pebbles of gold.  They had each secured a competence, assuring us that we could go and do likewise.  Some evil-disposed person stood by, who informed us that he noticed the same thing, and did not think it was gold.  The three above-mentioned individuals, to reassure us, unlocked their trunks, but, lo! their fortunes, like fancystocks at the present day, had a downward tendency.  It proved to be mica.  It had somewhat the appearance of gold, but on separating it from the sand, it was found to be very light, having the appearance of small pieces of gilt paper.  It was a most <HI REND="italics">blighting</HI>
077.sgm: illustration of the adage, that "all is not gold that glitters," particularly to the three above-mentioned individuals.  The bed of the river at this place had the appearance of being constituted of golden sands.  The same has been noticed in almost all the streams in California, and has, undoubtedly, given rise to many of the golden reports.  At 10, A.M., <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:(Sunday,) we were again under way, the day excessively hot, and at 12, M., arrived at "Sutterville;" and, when opposite the <HI REND="italics">town</HI>
077.sgm:, found ourselves out of the channel, and aground.  We all went on shore, and had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of one of the proprietors, with whom we walked a mile back from the <HI REND="italics">town</HI>
077.sgm:, to view " <HI REND="italics">Capitol Hill</HI>
077.sgm:," the <HI REND="italics">anticipated</HI>
077.sgm: site of the State House.  Although we did not break ground for the cornerstone, we were among the first to know the <HI REND="italics">precise spot</HI>
077.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">town</HI>
077.sgm: is situated four miles below Sacramento City, and three from the fort.  It contained three houses, visible to the <HI REND="italics">natural</HI>
077.sgm:<P>It afterwards became a town of some twenty houses.  The owners offered to a company owning the bark "Josephine," thirty lots provided they would land their effects and make improvements.  The proposition was accepted, and the improvements commenced.  (See Plate.)  A cannon is seen in the foreground which was taken from the Josephine, and used to salute vessels in passing up and down the river, as occasion might require.  At the left, are two Oregonians riding at full speed, and in the centre is seen the Indian chief, Olympia, his squaw, and several natives of lesser note.  The Josephine is seen at the river bank.  She was subsequently sold and sailed for Oregon.</P>
077.sgm:<P>I here visited a family that had been wandering about since 1845, without having entered a house.  There were two men, a woman, and three children, from three months to five years of age.  They started from one of the Eastern States, with a wagon, two yoke of oxen, and two cows, passed through Missouri, crossed the Rocky Mountains into Oregon, and finally drove down to California.  The children were all natives of the forest except the eldest.  They were encamped under a large oak-tree a short distance from the river.  The bed was made up on the ground, the sheets of snowy whiteness, the kitchen furniture was well arranged against the root of the tree, the children were building a playhouse of sticks, while the mother was sitting in a "Boston rocker" reading the Bible, with a Methodist hymn-book in her lap.  The infant lay croaking on a white flannel-blanket, looking like a blown up life-preserver.  While I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:was conversing with the woman, one of the men went into the back room to change his linen, <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The next morning the flood-tide swept us into the channel, and at ten, we made fast to the bank at Sacramento city.  This is at the junction of the American river with the Sacramento, 150 miles from San Francisco.  Here, all was confusion and dust, each generating the other.  This is the point from which the first move is made, by land, for the mines, and every man was on the run; mule-teams were moving in every direction, some loading, others preparing to load, each surrounded by a halo of dust which rendered mules and driver invisible.  We were just in time to find one tree unoccupied, consequently settled down and commenced "keeping house."  We designed to remain in town until the next morning.  (See Plate.)  This is my own tent.  At this time, there were about one hundred houses and tents in town; but it seemed that every man landed with a house, and put it up the same day.  Our brig had no less than thirteen on board, finished even to the glazing.  Goods of every description were piled up on the river-bank, awaiting the carman.  The owners were, in many instances, obliged to erect temporary shelters and sell them on the ground.</P>
077.sgm:<P>I met several persons who had been in the mines and seen the "Elephant."  Among others, a fellow passenger on the "Niantic."  He had been in the country two weeks, and in the mines half an hour.  He had just returned, and was traveling through town trying to sell his utensils, preparatory to returning to the States.  He was completely decorated with his wares, and looked like a country kitchen in disorder.  He had a pair of grained boots and a smoked ham in one hand, a piece of perforated sheet-iron, a coffee-pot and frying-pan in the other, a pair of long India Rubber boots, with pants attached, thrown over one shoulder, and a pair of blankets under the arm.  Over the other shoulder, was a long-handled shovel, from which was suspended a camp-kettle, containing a pepper-box, a pair of mining shoes, a piece of smoked beef, a Spanish grammar, several sea-biscuit, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:a pick-axe without a handle, and one pound each of sugar, coffee and bar-soap.  All the above were offered at cost " <HI REND="italics">to close the concern</HI>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Twelve.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>SUTTER'S FORT--A HERD OF CATTLE--"LASSOING"--RIO DE LOS AMERICANOS--A DISAPPOINTED HUNTER--A [CAIFORNIAN?] SERENADE--A MULE AND HIS RIDER--PARTING COMPANY--THIRST--SERENADES SUPPORTED BY DIRECT TAXATION--SIERRA NEVADAS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>WE drove out a mile to the margin of an extensive plain, where we stopped at a well, filled our flasks, and moved on, a gentleman who had a friend in the hospital at the fort, and myself, going in advance of the team.  The fort at the time of its construction, was an extensive work, but now it is all in ruins excepting the inner inclosure, in which are situated the dwelling, hospital and out-houses.  (See Plate).  It is constructed of adobes, or unburned brick, prepared and laid up by Indian labor; and I will here remark, that the Indians on the ranchos in California, are considered as stock, and are sold with it as cattle, and the purchaser has the right to work them on the rancho, or take them into the mines.  They are extremely squalid in appearance, and in the most abject servitude.  I have never found the natives, anywhere, in a condition so degraded.  We found the sick man in a very feeble state, having been in the hospital six weeks with dysentery, which he had contracted in the mines; and at this time there was but little hope of his recovery.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The fort is situated in the midst of an extensive plain, three miles from Sacramento city, and the same distance from the ferry and ford of the American river, (Rio Del Americano).  It is said the proprietor, in one season, harvested nearly two thousand acres of wheat.  At some distance back of the fort we saw grazing one of those immense herds of cattle for which California has been celebrated, (see Plate,) estimated at from two to three thousand head.  Before the gold was discovered hides and tallow were the only articles of export, and cattle were raised and slaughtered for these articles alone.  They run <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>There are probably no better horsemen in the world, not excepting the Cossacks, than the whites, half-breeds, and some of the Indians of California.  It has been said, that their only homes are upon the backs of their horses, and nothing could possibly exceed the spirit and reckless daring displayed on an occasion like this.  Their dresses are extremely picturesque.  A high crowned hat with a black glazed covering, trimmed with a gold-lace band and bell-buttons; a hunting shirt fastened at the waist by a blue or red sash, and a belt containing a brace of pistols, black velvet breeches, open at the side of the leg, the edges trimmed with bell-buttons, showing the white drawers underneath.  Below the knee the leg is dressed in tanned skins, which are wound around and fastened with strings; a pair of boots with a pair of massive iron spurs, trimmed with heavy chains; the hind tree, as well as the pommel of the saddle, rises quite abruptly, enabling one to retain his seat either at a rear or plunge of his horse; the pommel terminating in an eagle's head, which prevents the lasso from slipping from the neck.  The trimming of the saddle covers the entire back of the horse, the stirrups are of wood, made very large, with a leather covering in front, protecting the foot and leg from mud, brush, &amp;c.; the bridle has a heavy iron bit and generally but one rein.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Thus mounted, a party of fifteen or twenty will approach a herd of cattle, horses, or elk, as the case may be.  As they approach the herd takes fright, one snorts and starts, which is a signal for all, and they dash away.  The horsemen, each selecting his victim, now bear down upon them with the speed of lightning.  The herd, now aware of their pursuit, redouble <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>As our team had not yet arrived, we walked on one mile to Grime's fort, a similar structure, and I believe the owner is a claimant of Sutter's claim.  We walked on to the river, prepared ourselves and waded through.  On the opposite side, as we ascended the bank, we found ourselves on the margin of a plain, stretching away as far as the eye could reach, with nothing but an occasional oak to relieve the monotony.  On the bank, a short distance above, is a rancho, to which belongs the ferry, used only during high water.  This rancho belongs to the Sutter estate.  There are several thousand head of cattle and horses belonging to it, and about two hundred <HI REND="italics">head</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Our team soon came up, and our driver informed us that it was ten miles to the next water, consequently we were obliged to encamp on the bank of the river, notwithstanding it was only 3 o'clock, P.M.  We had averaged one mile per hour.  I loaded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>After breakfast we filled our flasks with water from the river and started.  Our team travelled in a cloud of dust which hid them from our view.  We moved on in advance.  The day was excessively hot, and we were obliged to stop often for our team, in order to refill our flasks.  After traveling five miles we overtook an ox-team loaded, and several mules packed, on the way to the mines.  (See Plate).  There were also several teams in the distance, moving in the same direction.  We soon saw three men mounted on mules, coming toward us, who appeared to be returning from the mines.  They were in high <HI REND="italics">spirits</HI>
077.sgm:, galloping along a little off the main track.  One of them, in order, probably, to show a proper respect, pulled out his revolver and fired.  His mule, taking the cue from his master, wishing to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>We found the country a continuous plain entirely destitute of water, vegetation parched, and nothing showing signs of life excepting the few scattering oaks, an occasional wolf, and numerous gray squirrels.  These last have much the appearance of the gray squirrels of the forests of New York; but they burrow in the ground, in families.  We exhausted the supply of water we had put on board, and were suffering with thirst.  The sun had gained the meridian, and his rays were almost consuming.  We hurried on through clouds of dust, and at 2 P.M. reached the point at which we expected to find water.  To our painful surprise, the spring was dry.  It was three miles to the next, and we were almost crazy with thirst.  It was no time for deliberation.  There was no alternative but to push on.  On arriving at the next spring, we found a puddle containing a quart of water, the surface covered with yellow wasps.  We were, however, not fastidious, and drank all excepting the wasps.  It again filled and was again drained, until all had replenished their flasks.  We here took dinner, and moved on until about 5 P.M., when, after a most fatiguing day's journey, we reached the "half-way tent."  I here saw a herd of deer, and notwithstanding the fatigues of the day, indulged in a "hunt," but without success.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Here, in the way of public accommodations, we found a tent, luxuriating in the name of the "half-way house."  A rough board running the entire length served as a table, the guests sleeping in the open air outside, under the protection of their own blankets.  A blacksmith had erected, under a temporary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>Our cook is busily engaged in preparing supper, while Mr. Cooper and myself devote the few remaining moments of twilight, to sketching the surrounding scene.  The snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada are seen looming up in the distance, now gilded by the last rays of the setting sun, and now a dark imposing mass.  Our teamster has just returned after a weary search for pasturage for our mules.  I am visited by an individual whose personal appearance proclaims his own history more eloquently than it can be described.  He might be termed one of the oldest inhabitants, having taken up his residence in the country before the gold excitement.  He claimed to be on terms of intimacy with the <HI REND="italics">delirium tremens</HI>
077.sgm:, was deaf, had the rheumatism and scurvy, and said "he was not very well himself."  His entire system seemed palsied by the use of rum, and so little control had he over the lineaments of his face, that he could only open his eyes by opening his mouth at the same time; hence, in closing his mouth upon his pipe (which was in constant use) he was obliged to part the lids of his left eye with his thumb and finger; so confirmed had he become in this habit, that a protuberance had raised upon his eyebrow and cheek-bone by the appliance.  He was extremely loquacious and imparted much <HI REND="italics">valuable</HI>
077.sgm: information gratis, constantly keeping that <HI REND="italics">piercing</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We were serenaded, as usual, during the night.  We had been under the impression that the music was gratis, but learned, on this occasion, that it was supported by <HI REND="italics">direct taxation</HI>
077.sgm:, one of the worthies having taken a ham from our camp-kettle during the night.  In addition to this, I had the pleasure, in the morning, of <HI REND="italics">adding a note to his scale</HI>
077.sgm:, with which he seemed so much pleased, that he went off <HI REND="italics">repeating it</HI>
077.sgm:, until he was out of sight.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Thirteenth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>VENISON--FIRST VIEW OF THE GOLD REGIONS--SURROUNDING SCENERY--"MORMON BAR'--A POCKET--MY MACHINE IN MOTION--CERTAINTY OF SUCCESS--FIRST DINNER--"PROSPECTING"--A GOOD "LEAD"--DISAPPOINTED MINERS--A NEW COMPANION--A HIGHER POINT ON THE RIVER--VOLCANOES--SNOWY MOUNTAIN--AUBURN--LONELY ENCAMPMENT.</P>
077.sgm:<P>WE passed the night in the open air, and the next morning at eight o'clock arrived at an encampment of teamsters who were just dressing a deer and preparing breakfast.  (See Plate.)  The tree under which they were encamped was on fire, on one side, to its very top--the other supporting a luxuriant branch.  The coffee-pot is on the fire and the cook stands by, frying-pan in hand, waiting for the steak.  At the left the cattle are seen feeding; one of them, however, having resigned himself to the "coyotas."  In the distance is seen a herd of deer bounding away over the hill.  On the right are seen teams wending their way to the banks of the "North Fork" of the American river--freighted with provisions and utensils for mining.  It will be seen that we have ascended into a more elevated region since leaving the last Plate.  The ascent has been gradual--almost imperceptible--still everything indicates our elevation.</P>
077.sgm:<P>At ten we arrived at a junction in the roads, four miles from our point of destination; we remained here until after dinner; we now felt that we were about to try the realities of that for which we had left home and friends, traveled thousands of miles, and endured hardships and privations, the very thought of which makes the heart sick--we felt a degree of anxiety, as a few hours would probably decide whether we were soon to return to our friends or endure a long period of hardships in the mines.  After dinner we were again under way, and soon, leaving the main road, we were running in the direction of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>We soon gained the summit, and stood enraptured with the scene around us.  The river, saluting our ears with its restless murmurs, meandered at the base of the mountain which had lifted us a mile above it.  The banks were dotted with tents and teeming with the Liliputian owners.  On the opposite side were mountains piled one above the other, terminating in a range covered with eternal snow, presenting a scene of grandeur and sublimity nothing can excel.  The whitened peaks, reflecting the sun, resembled the domes of some vast cathedral.  Looking back, the entire valley of the Sacramento was stretched out before us, bounded by the coast range of mountains, beyond which we could look upon the Pacific ocean--presenting a scene which, in extent, diversity, and grandeur is rarely if ever equalled.  In the valley we could see extensive fertile plains, deserts of white sand, marshes, numerous lakes, dense forests, marking the water courses; and no doubt, with a glass of sufficient power, could have seen herds of elk, deer, antelope, and wild cattle.  There is but little vapor in the atmosphere at this season of the year, and the vision is almost unbounded.  Our team soon came up, and we prepared to descend the mountain, which was very precipitous, and the only place within ten miles at which the river can be reached with a team.  Our teamster chained the wheel and with much difficulty descended the first step.  He having been engaged in the same capacity during the Mexican war, managed the descent with much skill, and reached the base without accident.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We found ourselves at the "Mormon Bar," forty-five miles from Sacramento city.  We pitched our tent and cooked dinner after which I paid the teamster seventy-five dollars for three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>"Bent" rocked and I put in the dirt.  We resolved to run through twenty buckets before raising the screen, and soon the perspiration began to flow.  He had a strong arm and I exerted every nerve to keep the machine supplied.  The dirt would pass through the screen almost instantly, leaving the pebbles which he would scan very minutely, but finding no large pieces of gold consoled himself with the thought, "the smaller the more of them."  But now, after an hour's incessant labor, we were about to finish our first task, and had in the machine as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:much as we thought it prudent to have at any one time; I stopped digging but my heart kept on.  The heat was most intense, the perspiration gushing from every pore.  Bent was in a fever of excitement.  He was naturally of a sandy complexion, but now his face added a deeper tinge to his red flannel shirt collar.  Our reward was in our machine, and after putting in several dippers of water we raised the screen.  It did not look as we expected it would; there was any quantity of dirt and <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We were not altogether satisfied with the result; still, we had just commenced, and, perhaps, were not sufficiently near the granite.  Our "lead" was the best one on the bar--we <HI REND="italics">knew</HI>
077.sgm: by the looks of it--and the next twenty buckets must show a different result.  Our ambition was again up, and our machine in motion, and, if possible, with increased energy.  After running through several buckets of dirt, we raised the screen.  There was not much gold on the top, but there was <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Our machine was again in motion.  The sun had now almost gained the meridian.  The heat was excessive.  Bent's red flannel was outside of his pantaloons, dripping with perspiration.  My blue one was in the same condition.  I would think of those abandoned "leads," and wish I had two buckets.  He would think of them, flourish his dipper, and rock the machine, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>As it was our first day in the mines, we resolved to dine on pork, a favorite dish in California.  We cut a quantity into slices, put it into the frying-pan, laying on it a quantity of sea-biscuit, filling the pan with water, and covering it with a tin plate.  We kept it on the fire until the water evaporated--it was then ready for use.  Our coffee, in the mean time, was boiled in the tin coffee-pot.  Seating ourselves on rocks in front of the tent, we expressed our appreciation of the swine tribe in unmeasured terms.  We take a respite of an hour, and return to our labor.  We are anxious to get down to the granite, as we are sure of finding there a rich deposite.  Towards evening we struck the granite, and were within reach of a fortune, deposited here by nature for our express benefit.  As it was late, we resolved to wash down what we had in the machine, and prepare for a successful effort on the following day.  On our arrival at the tent, we found "Harry" and "Sam," stretched out on the ground, groaning with fatigue, declaring that they had never worked so hard before, nor would they again.  They had seen enough of the mines, and were determined to return to Sacramento.  After telling them of the brilliant success that was about to attend our efforts, they agreed to remain another day.  We had pork for supper, and spent the night in dreams of luxury.  After an early breakfast we were again at our "lead."  We were particular to scrape the granite, as we uncovered it, and after running through ten buckets, we raised the screen; to our surprise, we were doing no better than on the previous day.  This we could not account for.  The only solution was, that the gold had never been there, and why, we could not divine.  It had the same appearance as the General's lead, which was paying the three from fifty to eighty dollars per day.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We worked on for some time, when "Bent" went up to cook the dinner, (we had resolved to have pork,) and I took the pick, shovel, and pan, and went "prospecting."  After walking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>We took an early start, and devoted an hour to "prospecting."  This time we were more successful, we found a "lead" from which we got twenty particles of gold in the first pan-full.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:We soon had our machine on the spot.  As we were placing it several miners passed on the way to their work.  They all looked, <HI REND="italics">we thought</HI>
077.sgm:<P>I was now alone.  The two companions of the young man spoken of above, had left him, and circumstances seemed to throw us in each other's way, and makes us companions.  His name was Tracy.  He and his companions, Scillinger and Hicks, were from Santa Fe&acute; they had crossed the mountains, eaten their proportion of mule steak, and endured every conceivable hardship.  We were at once friends.  We determined to gain a higher point on the river, and, if possible, find a place where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>Our route lay over a succession of mountains, the peaks of which bore unmistakable signs of volcanic formation, being covered with lava.  Our journey was a most fatiguing one, and at noon, having gained an elevated point, we sat down to rest.  I here noticed, for the first time, a phenomenon which is of frequent occurrence during the summer months.  A heavy white cloud resembling a bank of snow rises from the Snowy Mountains (Sierra Nevada,) and after gaining a certain altitude passes off to the south, and is succeeded by another.  After disposing of a certain quantity of hard bread and pork, and kissing our flask, we stretched ourselves out on the ground under the shade of a pine tree, and were soon in the embrace of Morpheus.  In one hour we were again under way, and at 3 o'clock, P. M., arrived at the "dry diggings," (now Auburn.)  This was a place of three tents, situated on the main road leading to the Oregon trail, which it intersects twenty miles above.  These mines were not being worked to any extent, owing to the scarcity of water.  There were a few, however, engaged in carrying dirt, a mile on their backs, and washing it at a puddle, in <HI REND="italics">town</HI>
077.sgm:<P>After an hour's detention we were again under way, and after traveling sometime over mountains, changed our course, wishing to reach the river.  After an hour of the most fatiguing effort we were on a brink, with the river beneath our feet, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>We were strangers, never having spoken until a few hours previous; yet, having been thrown together by chance in a strange land, we felt a mutual interest that could scarcely have been stronger, had we been brothers.  I must here say, that I was associated with Mr. Tracy for the succeeding three months, and no brother could have been more attentive or sympathetic.  Soon after we were blanketed, the moon gained a sufficient altitude to look down into the can&tilde;on upon us.  Our situation was novel in the extreme.  The mountains rose on either side to the height of more than a mile, almost perpendicular.  The moon and stars looking in upon us with unusual brilliancy.  The distant and incessant howl of numerous packs of wolves, the restless gurgling and chafing of the river, as it struggled angrily through its rocky channel, our lonely and isolated situation, all conspired to generate strange thoughts, and to bring up strange, and often unpleasant associations.  To look at the moon and think that our friends might be, at that moment, looking at the same orb, and thinking of us--thinking, perhaps, that we were already preparing to return home, having accomplished our most sanguine expectations; then to look at the reality, think of the dark prospect ahead, of the time that must intervene before we could think of returning, of the innumerable hardships <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Fourteenth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>A SEA CAPTAIN AS COOK--A HERD OF DEER--RETURN TO MORMON BAR--KEEPING HOUSE--OUR MACHINE IN MOTION--$1,500 IN ONE HOUR--AN ELOPEMENT--WASH DAY--SPORTING--PROSPECTING--DISCOVERY OF GOLD--EXCITEMENT--FATIGUE--THE CAKES "HURRIED UP"--INCENTIVES TO EXERTION--CANALLING A BAR.</P>
077.sgm:<P>WE rose in the morning with renewed vigor, and after breakfast, thoroughly prospecting our bar, (see Plate,) we moved on up the river.  We found the passage in many places extremely difficult, obliging us to climb precipices to the height of two to three hundred feet.  We examined closely, but found no place sufficiently rich to pay for working.  At about 12 M. we arrived at a bar that was being worked by a company that had recently purchased it of another company for $2,500.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Their labor was attended with fair success, but they did not succeed in making wages after paying the above sum.  There is a law established by custom in the mines, which allows a man a certain space, generally ten feet, extending across the river.  It is by this law that companies take possession of bars, and their claim is never disputed, as it is a privilege of which all wish to avail themselves.  We ascended the river still higher, but found nothing to encourage us.  We deliberated some time and concluded to reascend the mountain.  We returned to the encampment of the above-mentioned bar, where we found an old man, a sea captain, acting as cook.  They had no tent, but slept in the open air.  The cook had a large camp-kettle hanging on a tripod under a live oak-tree, cooking pork and beans, and preparing dinner for thirty men.  It seemed a strange occupation for a sea captain; still, it had not yet lost its novelty, and he seemed to enjoy it much.  I noticed, however, that he would frequently hitch up his pantaloons and look "aloft."  After resting an hour <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:we went to a ravine, filled our flasks with spring-water and commenced ascending the mountain.  On arriving near the summit we came upon a herd of deer, and wounded one, but did not succeed in capturing it.  We soon found ourselves again in view of the Snowy Mountains and resolved to encamp for the night.  After partaking of a sumptuous meal, (pork and hard bread) we again reclined on the couch of nature, her sweetest incense borne by the gentle breeze to our sleeping senses.  (The <HI REND="italics">dust</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We took an early start on our return to Mormon Bar, and arrived in the evening much fatigued.  We resolved to make an effort here at mining, and back it up with any amount of energy.  We purchased a machine and made all the preliminary arrangements in the evening, preparatory to a start at an early hour.  We had no tent, consequently resolved to rent a suit of apartments from Nature, and looking about we found a large rock on the brink of a precipice, one hundred feet above the river.  The place was secluded and pleasant.  In front of the rock, on the mountain side, was a kitchen sufficiently large for <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Tracy had volunteered to act as cook, and in order to have things in harmony, I called him wife, and <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
077.sgm: was perhaps as well calculated to get along under the circumstances as any <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We arose in the morning full of energy, and didn't think there were any two individuals in that "section" destined to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:accomplish more than ourselves.  We shouldered our implements and were soon on the margin of the river.  As we were placing our machine, a miner came along and informed us that, on the previous day, a Mr. Eccle had got out in one hour $1,500.  We had suspected all along that there were rich deposits in the vicinity, and now our <HI REND="italics">suspicions</HI>
077.sgm: were confirmed.  Our machine was soon in operation, and as the $1,500 would flash across our imagination, I would strike my pick the deeper.  Tracy would flourish his dipper, strike up some familiar air, and the cradle would rock as if propelled by the furies.  If there had been <HI REND="italics">anything</HI>
077.sgm: in it except dirt Tracy would have had an accompaniment to his song.  We washed through ten buckets, and raised the screen; it did not look very encouraging--we run through ten more--Tracy thought there <HI REND="italics">wasn't quite as much as there was before</HI>
077.sgm: --he began to lag, and I must confess I was obliged to recur often to the $1,500 to keep the necessary elasticity in my suspenders; we stopped a moment to rest, and speculate on the probable appearance of the spot where the above sum was obtained; we came to the conclusion that it <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Soon after dinner our machine was again making its spasmodic movements, and continued them during the afternoon; we did not allow ourselves to forget the strong resemblance between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>Mining operations cease on the Sabbath; and miners attend to mending, washing, &amp;c.  Tracy and myself went to the river to do our washing; the vocation to me was entirely new.  I commenced on a pair of white merino drawers which I sometimes used instead of pantaloons; they looked very well when I commenced, but it was different after working on them half an hour; it would have troubled an experienced washerwoman to tell what color they ought to be; I first tried soap, then sand, but it was of no use; it appeared only to <HI REND="italics">set the color</HI>
077.sgm:.  I put them in the river and put a stone on them; what effect the rainy season had on them, I have not been able to learn.  I took my rifle, and trespassed on the Sabbath by shooting a rabbit and several quails; we consequently spent the afternoon in feasting, and on Monday morning were in a condition to <HI REND="italics">tire</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We resolved to run through two hundred buckets, and no two men ought, and few could do more.  When night came we had $4 to add to the purse.  We resolved to spend the next morning prospecting.  We started at an early hour, and after testing a number of points, decided upon one, and immediately started our machine.  At noon, not liking the result, we determined to spend the afternoon in a further search.  We went some distance up the river, carefully examining every point, until we came to a perpendicular ledge of rocks, overhanging the river.  We thought no one had ever attempted to ascend this, and by doing so ourselves might find on the other side what had not been examined.  We succeeded in gaining the summit, and on going down the other side, commenced to examine the crevices of the rocks.  To our astonishment,  Tracy found a piece of gold worth a dollar.  We were much excited.  It was too much to bear in silence.  He opened his mouth to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>We arose much fatigued, but hope was pree&die;minent, and we were soon under way, with the brightest anticipations.  Our machine was again in motion; I never felt stronger, and at every bucket-full Tracy would give his dipper an extra flourish, his India-rubber suspender fairly grinning with excitement.  We did not fear for the result, and kept our machine in motion until noon, when on raising the screen we found we had made about fifty cents.  We had, however, not yet reached the granite, and our spirits were not dampened.  We worked during the afternoon, reaching and scraping the granite, and at night would have been one dollar richer than in the morning, if some one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>A team had just arrived from Sacramento with eight fortunate individuals, who had heard that this was the place where men were getting $1,500 per hour, and as they had just arrived from the States, they were willing to <HI REND="italics">commence even at that rate</HI>
077.sgm:.  The teamster informed me that Bent, Harry, and Sam " <HI REND="italics">put in</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The country is rich in gold, the supply is inexhaustible.  The entire soil of the mountainous parts is impregnated with it.  It seems an ingredient or constituent of the soil.  Still, in its natural distribution, it is not sufficiently abundant to pay for collecting.  It is found most plentifully on bars in the rivers, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:where it is deposited during freshets, or at the confluence of ravines, which sweep down the side of the mountains uniting at the base, where the gold naturally deposits during the rainy season.  "Bars," in California <HI REND="italics">parlance</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Fifteenth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>START FOR SACRAMENTO CITY--THE "NIAGARA CO."--FREDERIC JEROME--A LOVE-CHASE--HEROINE UNDER A BLANKET--SUSPICIOUS BOOTS--PART OF A LADY'S HAT FOUND--A BALL--ARRIVAL AT SACRAMENTO CITY--POOR ACCOMMODATIONS--RETURN TO THE INTERIOR--A CHASE--A NEW YORK MERCHANT--BEALSH BAR--EMBARK IN TRADE--A MOUNTAINEER--INDIAN CHARACTERISTICS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ON Monday morning I bade Tracy farewell, and started for Sacramento, promising to report at the earliest possible moment.  After walking four miles I was taken sick and stopped at a tent until morning, when, feeling better, I left my rifle and pursued my journey.  The heat was excessive, and the road a dreary one, with nothing to break the monotony.  I exhausted the contents of my flask and was soon suffering with thirst; I met a gentlemen who supplied me with water, and I moved on.  After traveling some twelve miles, as I was pursuing my course I was surprised at hearing a voice, and immediately heard my name called.  I looked up and saw at a short distance from the road, two tents, and on approaching, found a company of gentlemen of Lockport, N. Y., who had been fellow passengers up the Pacific.  They had started for the interior, and on reaching this point their wagon broke down, the team strayed, and left them no alternative but to encamp.  As they were in the immediate vicinity of the river, they had commenced mining, and I am happy to add, with unexpected success.  This they richly deserved, for a more gentlemanly, hospitable and energetic set of men, it was never my fortune to fall in with.  They styled themselves the "Niagara Co.," and I have had the pleasure of meeting one of the gentlemen in this city since my return.  At their solicitation I visited their works, and remained over night, and when I parted with them in the morning, it was like parting with brothers.</P>
077.sgm:<P>I started at day-break and after traveling an hour, fell in with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>I began to think of my personal appearance, which is in such cases of the utmost importance.  After a careful examination, I came to the conclusion that it was not very flattering.  I had not shaved in six months; I had on an under-shirt and cravat, pantaloons and long boots, a Panama hat, blue flannel shirt out side, over which was a belt with a sheath-knife, and a blue sash.  I had seen men as badly dressed as myself.  I was in hope she had, and hurried on.  I soon reached the forest, and was on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<HI REND="italics">qui vive</HI>
077.sgm:, scanning every rock and log, expecting to find her at rest after her fatiguing walk across the prairie.  I walked on, examining every shade, without seeing her.  I soon saw at some distance a thick grove of underwood, the road passing through it, and I thought I saw a smoke rising beyond it.  I soon arrived near, approaching very cautiously, and keeping an eye in the direction of the smoke.  I was not frightened, but my nervous system was in an unusual state of agitation.  I wiped off the perspiration, and continued my cautious approach.  I was soon sufficiently near to see what I at first thought to be a tent, but on a nearer examination proved to be blankets thrown over a pole, and sweeping the ground.  I saw no one.  I approached still nearer, and came to the conclusion that she was under the blankets taking her morning <HI REND="italics">siesta</HI>
077.sgm:.  I still drew nearer, and stopped to take a survey of the premises.  Just beyond the blankets I saw what appeared to be two pairs of heavy boots, and on changing my position they both <HI REND="italics">appeared</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The scarcity of ladies in California, is the theme of much conversation.  There is an anecdote almost universally told in connection with the subject; it is as follows:  At a certain point in the mineral regions, part of a lady's hat was discovered, which caused so much excitement and joy, that it was immediately decided to have a ball on the spot, in honor of the event.  Invitations were immediately distributed throughout the country, and, on the appointed day, three hundred miners assembled, each dressed in a red flannel shirt, and accompanied by a bottle of brandy.  In the <HI REND="italics">exact spot</HI>
077.sgm: was driven a stick, five feet high, on the top of which was placed <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
077.sgm: hat, and around it was wrapped a flannel blanket.  It was made to represent, as nearly as possible, a female form.  By the side of this was placed a miner's cradle, or machine, in which was placed a smoked ham, also wrapped in a flannel blanket.  At the close of each dance the president of the meeting would rock the cradle, while the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>After waiting an hour without discovering any signs of life in the camp, the sun admonished me that I must move on.  I pursued my lonely walk until 11 o'clock, P. M., when I reached the American river.  I prepared myself and waded through, and in one hour was passing Sutter's Fort.  The dogs appeared to be on duty, and hailed me with such ferocity that I have no doubt they thought I meditated an attack.  I hurried on, and at midnight reached Sacramento city.  I found it impossible to get lodgings, and was obliged to seek shelter under some one of the large oaks in the suburbs of the town.  Even here it was difficult to find a spot unoccupied.  I found a place, however, by going some distance, and spread my blanket with a fair prospect of having the bed all to myself.  It had been excessively hot during the day, but now a heavy dew had fallen, the air was cold, and after laying an hour found myself stiff and lame, and chilled to the very heart.  I arose, but found it difficult to walk.  I succeeded in reaching an unfinished house, into which I crawled, and spent the balance of the night in a vain effort to sleep.</P>
077.sgm:<P>In the morning I took a survey of the town, purchased a horse, and prepared for another incursion into the interior.  A friend wished to accompany me, and at 4 o'clock, P.M., we were under way.  We crossed the river and took our course across the plain in the direction of the great bend of the American River.  Late in the afternoon, as we were galloping along, we fell in with a pack of wolves (coyotas,) and as we were both well mounted we were fast overhauling them.  They were crazy with fright, making two or three tremendous leaps, then turning to look at us, their alarm would increase and they would bound away.  We were close upon them when my companion's girth broke, and we were obliged to give up the chase.  If they have <HI REND="italics">ever</HI>
077.sgm: come to the conclusion to stop, I am confident it was not in that immediate vicinity, for I never saw animals so frightened.  What they were doing when we came upon them, I am unable to say.  It has been suggested that they may have been tuning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:their instruments preparatory to their evening concert.  I was disposed to fall in with this suggestion, from the fact, that <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We resumed our journey and at 10 P.M., arrived at the bend.  After watering our horses we secured the ends of their lassos, and taking our supper, we rolled ourselves in our blankets.  In the morning we directed our course towards Beal's Bar, a higher point on the river.  As we were galloping along (California horses cannot trot) we met a gentleman whom I recognized as a New York acquaintance.  He was a New York merchant, and when at home, somewhat noted for his dashing appearance.  His appearance on this occasion was so extremely ludicrous, I could not withstand the temptation of taking a sketch.  (See Plate.)  He was returning from the mines, and at the time we came upon him, a coyota was casting inquisitive glances in that direction, as if in doubt whether it was really a man, or a fellow-member of the <HI REND="italics">California Harmonic Society</HI>
077.sgm:.  He had on a slouched hat, which, together with his whiskers and moustache, almost hid his face; a mariner's shirt, and a pair of drawers, which were, on this occasion, serving in the place of pantaloons, being <HI REND="italics">suspended</HI>
077.sgm:<P>After a short detention we moved on, arriving at the Bar at 12 M.  After dinner we went down to the scene of operations, my friend wishing to purchase an interest.  The bar was divided into thirty shares, owned by as many individuals.  They worked as a company and divided the proceeds at night.  Shares were commanding $2,800 each.  Beal's Bar was at this time paying about $20 per day to a man.  They had, however, expended a large amount of money in turning the water from the channel.  After remaining two hours, we started in the direction of the Mormon Bar, where we arrived at 9 P.M.  Tracy was in an ecstasy.  He provided supper with great alacrity, and even let my friend occupy half his bed.</P>
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077.sgm:<P>I had resolved to engage in the mercantile business at this point, and having heard the present store was for sale, I called on the proprietor for his terms.  They did not appear favorable, and I started the next morning for Sacramento, accompanied by my friend.  We arrived that evening, and the next morning I commenced buying a stock.  I was soon on my return.  We were three days in reaching our destination, and such a time!  We had a span of mules and a span of horses before the wagon, and a nice matched span of drivers.  I paid $20 for an extra team on the route, and finally reached our destination.  I deposited my goods under a tree, having canvas with which I designed to erect a store.  The next morning I succeeded in buying out the other store, and before night had possession.  I now felt that I had the helm of a craft I knew how to manage, and was fairly at sea.  I immediately hired a Frenchman as cook at $50 per week, and Tracy became a guest.  I was now pleasantly situated, with every prospect of success.  I soon purchased a share in the bar--paid $1,100.  At this time it was yielding abundantly, and I had every assurance of an ample remuneration.  Throughout the country there is a strong propensity for gambling.  People appear to engage in it for want of other amusement.  The store I had purchased had been used for the purpose every night since its construction, but it became so great a nuisance, I was obliged to prohibit it excepting on particular occasions.</P>
077.sgm:<P>I here had an opportunity of seeing many of those strange adventurers who are met with only on the extreme frontiers, and who have as great an aversion to law and civilization as they have to the manacles of a prison.  I had had the store but a few days, when one of these strange beings crossed my path.  I must confess there was nothing, at first sight, to attract my admiration.  About nine in the morning I saw, approaching the store, a strange looking being, mounted on a gray horse, a <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
077.sgm: thrown over his shoulder, over which was slung a huge rifle, skins wrapped around his legs, a pair of Mexican spurs on, and a slouched hat which partially obscured his copper complexion.  As he rode up, Tracy recognized him as an old mountaineer, whom he had seen in Santa Fe&acute;.  After the recognition, Tracy says "Jim! whose horse is that?" Jim--"how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:do I know whose horse it is!"  Tracy--"where did you get him?"  Jim--" <HI REND="italics">I stole him from an Indian, of course</HI>
077.sgm:."  I have no doubt his declarations were true, for he claimed the credit (and I was informed he deserved it) of being the most accomplished horse-thief in all New Mexico.  He informed Tracy that he was "dead broke" and hungry, and wished him to ask me for something to eat.  I requested Prince to get him some breakfast, after which he was as rich as Cr&oelig;sus, and commenced giving me his life.  It was a most exciting romance, interspersed with thrilling adventures and "hair-breadth 'scapes."  I was convinced that his story, in the main, was true, not because he <HI REND="italics">swore</HI>
077.sgm: to it all, but because Tracy was acquainted with the most important facts.  He was a mixture of the negro, Indian, and Anglo-Saxon blood, and born in New Mexico.  His earliest training was in the art of horse and mule stealing, in which art he had become a connaisseur.  He commenced by stealing one at a time, and soon became so proficient, that he could steal whole droves with perfect impunity.  He declared that he furnished General Taylor's army with most of their horses and mules, and that he could raise two thousand head, with twelve hours' notice--sometimes stealing of the Indians, and at others of the Mexicans.  Sometimes he would associate with the whites, and at others with the natives.  He was for years, chief of the Crow Indians, and still has a wife and family with them.  He led them in numerous battles against the neighboring tribes, alternately winning and losing.  He was engaged in the Texan war, was at the battle of San Jacinto, and at most of the battles fought by General Taylor.  He was never enrolled in the army, but always fought on his "own hook," and ready to chase the party that was defeated.  He took a middle ground, and was always <HI REND="italics">just in time</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Indians in their wars have their own peculiar signs and marks by which warriors of the same tribe are informed of the locality of the enemy.  These signs are made on the trees, rocks, earth, &amp;c., &amp;c.  A detachment of a thousand warriors will start in the evening, and after arriving at a certain point, separate, to scour the country in different directions, and meet at a concerted point, when the moon is at a certain altitude.  The party arriving first, drops an arrow, with the point in the direction they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:have taken; the latter party moving in that direction soon find their friends.  But if the enemy is on the alert, the first arrow is dropped, and soon another, which is found at right angles with the first.  This is a caution.  They move on still farther in the direction indicated by the first arrow, and if there is danger they find two arrows, one across the other.  They now stop and secrete themselves.  Soon one of the first party approaches them cautiously and informs them of the position of the enemy.  In cases of storm, when the sun is hidden, they resort to other indications for the point of compass.  They find the moss much thicker on the north side of trees and rocks, than on the south.  They also cut into the trees and find the annual growth much thicker on the south, than on the north side.  Jim's legs had the appearance of being bound with cords under the skin, in consequence of the general rupture of the blood vessels.  He says he was taken prisoner by the Indians, and in making his escape was chased ninety miles, without stopping for food or rest.  The condition of his limbs then compelled him to stop, and secrete himself, where, in consequence of his lameness, he was obliged to remain for three weeks subsisting on roots.  Jim, with his other accomplishments, was considered one of the best " <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Sixteenth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>THE MORMONS--THE ATTEMPTED MURDER OF GOV. BOGGS--CANALLING MORMON BAR--FALSE THEORIES IN REFERENCE TO GOLD DEPOSITS--INFLUENCE OF AMASA LYMAN, "THE PROPHET"--EXCITING SCENE--JIM RETURNS--A MONTE BANK "TAPPED"--JIM'S ADVENT AT SACRAMENTO CITY.</P>
077.sgm:<P>MY immediate neighbors were mostly Mormons, headed by Amasa Lyman, one of "the twelve."  The person who shot Gov. Boggs, of Missouri, was also here, under an assumed name.  It will be remembered that at the time of the Mormon distrurbance in Missouri, it was thought by them that Gov. Boggs connived at their persecution, and several attempts were made upon his life.  Scofield, alias, "Orin Porter," a reckless, daring fellow, loaded a pistol and went to his house; it was in the evening; the Governor was sitting by the light reading a paper.  Porter went to the back window, and aiming at his head, discharged the pistol, the ball taking effect in the back part of his head.  Porter deliberately laid the pistol on the window-sill, and left.  The wound did not prove mortal, and at the time of which I am writing, Gov. B., and two sons, were in California.  They had heard of Porter's rendezvous, and were supposed to be in search of him.  He went armed with a brace of revolvers, and one of duelling pistols; he had a dog that was constantly with him, sleeping with him at night to give the alarm in case of danger.  He declared his determination to sell his life dearly if attacked.  He was much esteemed by the " <HI REND="italics">faithful</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The Mormons held no religious meetings here.  They believe in the inspiration of Smith, or "Joseph," as they call him, and calculate time from the date of his death, as an era, speaking of an occurence, as in the first, second, or third year of the death <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:of "Joseph."  They believe the Book of Mormon to be a history of the western, as the Bible is a history of the eastern continent.  Those here were a <HI REND="italics">good</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We now commenced draining the deepest and consequently the richest hole, and soon had it in working order; the richness of the margin was, as we thought, infallible evidence that the bottom must yield abundantly; we removed a quantity of dirt and stone, and commenced to wash from the bottom, but, to our surprise, it did not contain a particle of gold; this, like most of the theories in reference to operations in California, was not founded on correct principles.  The influence of the stagnant water in the holes seemed to extend to the surface, holding the passing water in check.  The current, as it is bearing the gold down stream, comes in contact with this dead water, and parts; receiving a sufficient check to allow the gold to deposit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:around the margin.  Several experiments were tried without success, and it was soon apparent that the speculation was to prove diastrous.  The operations were managed without system or discretion.  The " <HI REND="italics">faithful</HI>
077.sgm:," having a majority, had it all their own way; and they managed as seemed best calculated to victimize the "Gentiles."  As the sequel will show, <HI REND="italics">they</HI>
077.sgm: were drawn into the same vortex.  I had hired a man to work my share, but the dividends did not pay his wages, and it was apparent that we must dissolve the company, and each man work or abandon his share as he saw fit.  It was proposed to divide the bar into equal shares, to be drawn by numbers representing them; the " <HI REND="italics">faithful</HI>
077.sgm:<P>There was an unusual anxiety and excitement on this particular occasion, and as the vote was about to be taken, first the implements, then the bar would be scanned, with marked solicitude; the clenched hand and determined gesture giving token of the fearful struggle that was at hand.  The vote was given; each man " <HI REND="italics">broke loose</HI>
077.sgm: " for the bar as if his life depended upon the exertion of the moment; some with machines on their shoulders, other laden with shovels, tin pans, pick-axes, India rubber boots, and spades, all rushing down, pell-mell, some crossing the canal on the log, others, finding the log full, would rush in and wade, or swim across; the implements of some, coming in contact with others, all would tumble in to meet again at the bottom.  Any one who has witnessed a charge in battle, can form a faint idea of the confusion and excitement on this occasion.  The vanquished, however, instead of being drenched in blood were drenched in water, and instead of broken bones, cries of the wounded, the beating of drums, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:and torn uniforms, we had broken shovel-handles, curses of miners, the rattling of tin pans, and torn red flannel shirts.  It so happened that the <HI REND="italics">"faithful</HI>
077.sgm: " all rushed for the same spot, and when their <HI REND="italics">lions</HI>
077.sgm: were served the <HI REND="italics">lambs</HI>
077.sgm:<P>I did not trust my interest at this time, to the supervision of a hired man, but joined in the foot-race, leaving Prince (the cook) in charge of the store.  I knew nothing about the best points in the bar, but followed the "Prophet" and his satellites, and when they selected their "leads" I took the one next above; in this lead I had an opportunity of seeing rich deposits, although I kept it from the knowledge of the "faithful".  I would go on the bar at 9 A.M. and work until 12; then from 1 P.M. to 4.  On one day I got eleven and a half ounces, and on several days as high as six ounces.  The bed of my lead was rotten granite, which in some places was entirely covered, being yellow with gold; in some of the crevices of the rock I would take it out with a spoon, almost entirely free from dirt.  The person having the lead next above me found a piece in a crevice worth twenty-five dollars, which was thought extremely large for river gold; it was found in a cavity of its own size and form, and seemed to have dropped in in a molten state.  The final result was a loss to almost all concerned in the operation; the same result attended all the canalling operations within my knowledge with one or two exceptions; such experiments require such immense expenditures that they must be extremely productive to remunerate.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Some three weeks after Jim's departure, as I was sitting in the store, in the after part of the day, I heard a peculiar whoop, and looking up the side of the mountain I saw a cloud of dust, and a something flying in the air that had the appearance of a sail that had broken loose from its lower yard during a gale; then there were four legs and two other legs, all of them seemed to be running races; whether on the ground or in the air it was difficult to tell.  I soon came to the conclusion that it was a trial of speed between Old Gray and Jim; they both <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:arrived about the same time; Jim a little ahead; as between his poncho and old Gray's <HI REND="italics">latter extremity</HI>
077.sgm: it was about an even race, and <HI REND="italics">they</HI>
077.sgm: both <HI REND="italics">settled down</HI>
077.sgm: quietly, as if glad the race had ended.  As Jim drew up to the door, he dismounted, and throwing on the counter a large handkerchief filled with gold and silver, said, "Well, I vow captain, I've made a raise;" he then untied his handkerchief; there were twenty or thirty dollars in silver, the balance in gold coin; the former he insisted upon my accepting, assuring me that it was of not the least value to him.  He had been up the river twenty miles, had fallen in with a Mormon who had some money, and who proposed that Jim should deal "monte" and share the profits; in a few nights they had won $13,000; the half of this was more money than he cared to have by him at any one time, and was on his way to Sacramento City to spend it.  He felt in high spirits, and as there were two gamblers along in the evening, who wished to open a "monte bank," he wished me to allow them to do so, which I did; they had a capital of a few hundred dollars, and Jim was to try his luck at betting, which, by-the-way, he understood <HI REND="italics">as well</HI>
077.sgm: as the other branch of the game.  He watched the run of the cards for some time, then wished to cut them; soon he made a small bet--it won; he made a larger bet, and won it also; after making a few successful bets, he <HI REND="italics">"tapped the bank</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The next morning a man came to the store, who saw Jim sleeping under a tree, his money under his head, his horse tied with a lasso, having traveled about five miles on his way to town.  On his arrival, he looked upon Sacramento City as his guest, and emptied his handkerchief in drinking its health.  He had all the inhabitants drunk who were disposed that way, and many of them much against their will.  He was quite successful in getting rid of his money, and one week after his advent, he had <HI REND="italics">invested</HI>
077.sgm: his last dollar.  He had engaged to pilot the mail through to Santa Fe&acute;, for the government, and the time arrived while he was <HI REND="italics">entertaining</HI>
077.sgm: the city.  Of course, he could not leave just then, and when the officer in charge ordered him to start, he declared in the <HI REND="italics">strongest</HI>
077.sgm: language, that he considered himself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Seventeenth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>FALSE REPORTS AND THEIR INFLUENCES--DAILY AVERAGE--ABUNDANCE OF GOLD--ORIGINAL DEPOSIT--"COYOTAING"--SAILORS--THEIR SUCCESS AND NOBLE CHARACTERISTICS--THEATRICAL TENDENCIES--JACK IN THE AFTER-PIECE--MINERS ON A "SPREE"--THE WRONG TENT.</P>
077.sgm:<P>THERE was an almost universal uneasiness felt throughout the mineral regions.  Not a day would pass without arrivals and departures.  To-day, a report would be in circulation that at a particular point on the Juba, or Feather river, miners were getting one hundred dollars per day.  A party would immediately set out, and tomorrow a party will arrive <HI REND="italics">from that particular point</HI>
077.sgm:, having heard that at <HI REND="italics">this</HI>
077.sgm: point, miners had actually got all they could carry away.  They would arrive with a full supply of provisions, utensils, &amp;c., but being disappointed, there would be no alternative but to sell out, as their provisions could not be drawn up the mountain.  To-day a man arrives who has prospected throughout the southern mines without success, and fallen in with a report that has brought him to this point.  Miners who are successful say nothing about it, but those who are not, are generally fond of making an <HI REND="italics">impression</HI>
077.sgm:.  I have now in my mind's eye several individuals who were almost daily visitors at the store, who had always <HI REND="italics">just</HI>
077.sgm: discovered a very rich deposit.  But strange as it may seem, that deposit never happened to find its way into the individual's pocket.  Now, a man will come in, all excitement, having just discovered, in a mountain gorge, a deposit so rich that gold can be picked up by pounds and half-pounds.  He is out of provisions, and on his way to town to lay in a stock, preparatory to availing himself of his rich discovery.  He talks incessantly of his prospects, and on his arrival in town imparts the information to the press.  It is published as coming from the individual himself, and, of course, worthy of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:credit.  It is copied by papers throughout the world, and universally believed; this individual, however, in the course of a week, has engaged to drive team by the month, or if returning to the mines, goes in some other direction, as if having forgotten his rich discovery.  His report, however, sends thousands to look for the spot, which, I need not say, they do not succeed in finding.  The <HI REND="italics">precise spot</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The country had been thoroughly prospected; there was not a bar nor ravine that did not bear the impress of the pick and shovel.  There were daily discoveries of deposits, sufficiently rich to pay well; still, such discoveries, in proportion to the number in search of them, were not one to twenty.  All were earning something, and the mass more than their expenses, still they were not averaging good wages.  A man could place his machine almost anywhere and get two dollars per day; this, however, barely pays for the provisions consumed, and unless a lead will pay <HI REND="italics">at least</HI>
077.sgm: five or six dollars, it is not considered worth working.  A miner finds a lead that pays six dollars, he exhausts it in six, or say ten days; his expenses are two dollars per day, leaving him, at the end of ten days, forty dollars.  He now spends a week, perhaps more, before he finds another lead that will pay; his expenses have reduced the amount in hand to twenty-six dollars.  If he goes any considerable distance, he must hire a mule to carry his provisions, machine, &amp;c., which will cost him one ounce ($16) per day; two days exhausts his fund.  There are in California, two hundred thousand inhabitants.  Say half this number are engaged in mining--at five dollars each, it amounts to half a million daily.  Now, according to statistics, this is more, by half, than is actually produced, and half this amount, or two dollars and a half, is <HI REND="italics">about the daily average</HI>
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077.sgm:<P>As I have already remarked, the supply of gold is inexhaustible, and late discoveries show that the rocks constituting the base of the mountains are cemented with it.  When proper machinery is brought to bear, and the bowels of the earth opened, discoveries will undoubtedly be made, that will eclipse the most exaggerated calculation.  The original deposits were, undoubtedly, in the depths of the earth, and all that has yet been found is that which has been thrown to the surface, by the convulsions of nature.  The form and general appearance of the gold, together with the appearance of its places of deposit, are conclusive proofs of this theory.  That the country has been convulsed by internal fires, no one who has visited it, can doubt.  Mountains of lava are seen towering up, and caverns yawning at their base.  The natural conclusion is that many of the original deposits or veins are still undisturbed; and, in the vicinity of the original deposits of those that have, gold must exist, and will be discovered to an extent almost beyond conception.</P>
077.sgm:<P>A system of mining was adopted near the commencement of the rainy season, which went to show that gold is much more plentifully distributed, as you near the original deposit.  It was called in California <HI REND="italics">parlance, coyotaing</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Among the operators in the mines, there were none, as a class, so generally successful as sailors.  They were numerous, and carried with them those estimable traits for which they are so universally celebrated.  They were always, both hand and purse, at the disposal of their neighbors.  Nothing afforded them more pleasure than to administer to the wants of others, always acting upon the principle that what <HI REND="italics">they</HI>
077.sgm: had belonged to the world at large, and they were merely the agents to superintend its distribution.  There was a bar in the immediate vicinity, called "Neptune's Bar," worked entirely by sailors, and of the twenty canalling operations in the vicinity, it was the only successful one.  They were well remunerated, and no one envied their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:success.  They would occasionally have a day of recreation, when all the neighbors would expect to drink; in fact, it was looked upon by all as a gala day, the amusements being of a rare and attractive character.  The actors would generally drink just enough to exhibit their most prominent traits.  Hogan was full of Shakspeare, and Tom of gunpowder; Charley, a true son of Neptune, would always imagine himself in a gale, and go aloft on the nearest tree; George would laugh; Bill would sing, and Geen would cry; Jack was a long, lank boy of nineteen; his eyes, <HI REND="italics">on such occasions</HI>
077.sgm:, had a peculiar way of closing themselves without his consent, and generally much against <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
077.sgm: will.  The operation was somewhat like closing a lady's work-bag with a draw-string.  He would tell the "yarns," and it was the only branch of the profession in which he was <HI REND="italics">au fait</HI>
077.sgm:.  Hogan would give us a medley, made up of <HI REND="italics">gems</HI>
077.sgm: from "Macbeth," "Richard III.," "Much Ado about Nothing," and the "Merry Wives of Windsor."  Tom would deploy into line for action, Charley would fall through the hatch, Jack would sell a magic hat to a Jew, while Prince, the cook, would be searching his pockets for yeast.  On one occasion Jack was, in theatrical <HI REND="italics">parlance</HI>
077.sgm:, cast, in the after-piece, and he played his part with <HI REND="italics">much spirit</HI>
077.sgm:.  He came to the store drunk, with a large sack on his shoulder, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
077.sgm: to the dry diggings.  We tried to dissuade him from crossing the river that evening, but he was determined, and staggered down towards the crossing.  We all followed, Dewey, being furnished with a lasso, to fish him out in case of accident.  Jack was somewhat offended at the interest manifested in him, and mounted the log with an emphatic oath.  He walked steadily until he had reached the middle of the stream, when, thinking no doubt that it was time to begin to climb the mountain, he raised his head, lost his balance, and fell in.  The weight of the sack first took him to the bottom, but he soon rose to the surface, when Dewey threw the lasso, caught him around the neck, and drew him out.  This was somewhat embarrassing to Jack, but he possessed too much courage, at this particular time, to give it up, and again mounted the log.  This time he walked much farther, so that there should be no mistake about it, but he again looked up with the same result as before.  The stream was very rapid, and was fast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>The third attempt was made with better success.  He reached the opposite side, but in stepping off the log, stumbled, and, the bank being steep, he rolled back to the margin of the river; Dewey again threw the lasso, and Jack recrossed.  This closed the scene; Jack did not come before the curtain, and, I suspect, that if there had been one near, he would have got behind it.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Occasionally the miners of that entire region of country would get on a spree, go to some drinking establishment, all get tight, and have a merry row.  They would keep it up during the day, and at evening some one perhaps would propose going home.  This would be favored by some, but generally met by a proposition to have another round, which would invariably carry; then some would be accused of not having treated; he would acknowledge the soft impeachment, and another round would be ordered.  They would all drink to friends at home in general, then to some particular personal friend.  Some one would propose going to the dry diggings the next day, prospecting.  Well, all in favor of going with Price, to-morrow, to the dry diggings, will form on this side--opposed, on the other; opposed are in the minority, and must treat.  Some would get mad and start for their tents, but having, at this particular time, very vague ideas of localities, instead of going down the river, they would go up the side of the mountain, and, <HI REND="italics">vice versa</HI>
077.sgm:; others would start, but by some mysterious movement, the earth would <HI REND="italics">fly up</HI>
077.sgm:<P>After wandering about for some time, each would call to the others, informing them that <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
077.sgm: was right, and of course when all were right none were wrong; but in the sequel not one, perhaps, out of the twenty, would reach his tent during the night.  On one occasion, one of the party, after having taken the last drink, mounted his mule, designing to go one mile up the river, but, on reaching the mouth of the ravine, the worthy animal turned down stream.  In the course of the night the rider, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:he supposed, reached his tent, and in attempting to dismount, being somewhat <HI REND="italics">fatigued</HI>
077.sgm:, he fell against the side of it and rolled in at the bottom; to his surprise he found it occupied by an individual, who, disliking his abrupt <HI REND="italics">entre&acute;e</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Eighteenth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>ARRIVALS--PREPARATION FOR THE RAINY SEASON--NEW DISCOVERIES--COLOMA-- GAMBLERS <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
077.sgm:<P>AFTER the result of the different canalling operations was known; being about the first of October, there was a general uneasiness felt throughout the mines, partly owing to the illsuccess attending the above, and in part to a desire to make preparations for the approaching rainy season, which was expected to set in about the first of November.  People were constantly arriving from San Francisco, having been informed that this was the " <HI REND="italics">precise spot </HI>
077.sgm:<P>There were frequent reports of rich discoveries in the mountain gorges, and many of them were found quite productive, inducing the occupants to throw up temporary habitations to protect them during winter.  Those who wished to retain their claims on the river, would do so by leaving some utensil to keep possession, and spend a week in prospecting in the mountains.  If successful in finding a productive spot, the pick-axe would be left in charge.  A rich deposit was found in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:mountains about four miles distant, to which the attention of all was directed, and many threw up temporary huts and made preparation for the approaching winter.  The place immediately assumed the appearance of a town.  Stores were erected and filled, and <HI REND="italics">monte-banks</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Coloma is situated on the south fork of the American River, fifty-five miles from Sacramento City.  The valley, though small, is one of the most beautiful in the State, being about three-fourths of a mile in width, and walled up on either side by lofty mountains.  The saw-mill in the race of which gold was first discovered, is still standing and in operation.  (See Plate.)  The location of the town is extremely pleasant, being near a bend of the river, and commanding an extended view of the surrounding country.  It was once infested by gamblers, but the miners took the matter in hand and drove them out at the point of the bayonet.  A gigantic enterprise has been undertaken just below the town, by Mr. Little, of Maine.  there is an abrupt bend in the river, the sweep around being three miles, and but a half-mile across; this half-mile is being tunneled to draw the water from the natural channel, which is supposed to be very rich in gold.  A large frame was erected here for a flouring-mill, at the time the saw-mill was erected; but Mr. Sutter changing his plans, had it removed to the fort, and after the breaking out of the gold excitement it was taken to Sacramento City and erected, making the first hotel, in point of size and accommodations, in town, called the City Hotel.  On the right of the accompanying plate will be seen a remnant of that persecuted and doomed race, the native California Indians.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Hangtown, now Placerville, is situated three miles from the south fork of the American River, twelve miles from Coloma and fifty-five from Sacramento City.  It is a dry diggings, or mountain gorge, and one of the most productive in the State.  The surrounding country is extremely mountainous, with innumerable gorges, from which gold has been obtained in great abundance.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>Soon after this, a man or lad, who was known as Irish Dick, had a difficulty with a person at a gaming table, in the Eldorado, after which he waylaid and murdered him.  This was the second murder of which he had been guilty, and for this, his own life fell a sacrifice.  The miners took him in charge, tied a rope round his neck, then giving him the other end, compelled him to climb a tree, go out on one of the limbs, fasten the end of the rope, and at the drop of a handkerchief, jump off.  He complied with apparent cheerfulness, and died without a struggle.</P>
077.sgm:<P>This is now the first stopping-place for the overland emigration, from which cause, as well as that of the superior richness of the surrounding mountain gorges, it has become a place of much importance.  At the time of which I am writing there were several rude houses constituting the town, all under the supervision of males--females, like the visits of their illustrious prototypes, being few and far between.  I think the first one had not yet made her appearance.</P>
077.sgm:<P>No nation with less genius than the "universal Yankee," could have survived the privation, and even of these it required the genuine "wooden nutmeg" species, a couple of specimens of which are faintly portrayed in the accompanying plate.  Their garments are of a cut not <HI REND="italics">generally</HI>
077.sgm: adopted in the Atlantic cities, yet I can assure the reader they are eminently fashionable in California.  The general appearance of these individuals is a true index to the order and systematic arrangement that pervade the interior of their habitation.  Nothing is done for show or ornament; everything bearing the impress of practicality and economy--one frying-pan, two tin-plates, both slightly touched with "ile," to prevent rust, their knives in their pockets and forks in their <HI REND="italics">hair</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>There are numerous herds of wild cattle in these mountainous regions, which have never been hunted or molested by man, until since the discovery of gold, and even now their wildness and impetuosity render their capture extremely uncertain and perilous.  The mountaineers, who always carry their lives in their hands and court danger in every form, are extremely loth to attack a wild bullock, even when well armed and mounted.</P>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>In an adjoining territory the "red man" had a quiet home; their "wigwams" were always supplied with venison, their corn-fields ripened in autumn, their rude traps furnished clothing for the winter, and in the spring they danced in praise of the "Great Spirit" for causing flowers to bloom upon the graves of their fathers; but the white stranger came and took possession of their hunting grounds and streams, and harvested their corn.  They held a council and decided that the Great Spirit had sent the white stranger, and it would be wrong not to give him all he wished; they collected their traps, bows, and arrows, and prepared to fall back in search of new streams and hunting grounds; they paid the last visit to the graves of their fathers.  What were their feelings?  The moon threw a pale, dim light through the foliage, the air breathed a mournful sigh as they reached the lonely mound; the stout-hearted warrior drew his blanket to hide his tears as he bowed down to commune for the last time with the spirits that had so often blessed him in the chase; his heart was too full, and he fell upon his face and wept bitterly.  But, a last adieu; they rise, cross the arrows over the grave, and walk mournfully away; the Great Spirit gives them a new hunting ground, and the corn ripens on the plain, but soon the white stranger comes and tells them to fall back.  They are at the base of the mountain; there are no hunting grounds beyond; if they go into the mountain their corn will not ripen, and their "papooses" will starve in the wigwam; they hold a council and decide to defend their homes against the encroachments of the white stranger.  The whites were strong, and drove the red man into the mountains, and for the crime of having <HI REND="italics">tried</HI>
077.sgm: to defend their homes and offspring, they are placed under a ban, and hunted down like wild beasts.  No <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>Will not some philanthropist rise above sectional prejudices, and undertake the regeneration of this truly noble but down-trodden people?  Had I the wealth of an Astor I would not wish a better or nobler field for immortality.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The first man I met after my arrival in the interior was an Oregonian on horseback, armed with a revolving rifle in search of Indians.  He had had a horse stolen, and presumed it was taken by an Indian; he swore he "would shoot the first red-skin he met," and I had no reason to doubt his word; still the chances were ninety-nine out of the hundred, that the horse was stolen by a white man.  I have no doubt the three Indians above spoken of were wantonly shot while walking peaceably along their trail.</P>
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077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Nineteenth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>CANALLING OPERATIONS--UNSUCCESSFUL EXPERIMENTS--COFFEE MILLS AND GOLD WASHERS--FORMATION OF BARS--GOLD REMOVED FROM THE MOUNTAINS DURING THE RAINY SEASON--SNOW ON THE MOUNTAINS, AND ITS DISSOLUTION--RISE AND FALL OF THE RIVER--STOCK SPECULATIONS--QUICKSILVER MACHINES--SEPARATION OF GOLD AND QUICKSILVER--INDIVIDUAL ENTERPRISE--INCENTIVES TO EXERTION--EXPENSES.</P>
077.sgm:<P>To give the reader a more definite idea of the success attending mining, I will detail the result of the different operations in the vicinity of my place of business, commencing one mile above and extending four below; this is said to be as rich as the same extent on any river in the country.  The Manhattan Bar was canalled and dammed by the Manhattan Co., being a party of New Yorkers, including Gen. Winchester and brother.  After expending a large amount in turning the water from the bed of the river, they purchased several quicksilver machines at one thousand dollars each, and immediately put them in motion.  It required but few days to convince them of the failure that must attend the enterprise; the machines did not collect enough to pay the men who worked them, and they were immediately abandoned for the common rocker, which, in their turn, were abandoned together with the entire work.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The next in order was the Vigilance Bar; here a large amount of money was expended, and almost the entire summer devoted to the construction of a dam and canal, all of which proved an entire loss to the parties concerned; they did not get enough to pay for the provisions consumed during the construction of the work.  In the immediate vicinity of this was the Union Bar; a still greater amount in money and labor was expended here, but, as in the case of the Vigilance Co., it proved a total failure.  In these two cases, sixty men had spent the entire summer in hard labor, and now were obliged to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:encounter the rainy season, many of them in debt, and but few with sufficient means to buy a month's provisions.  In the latter company were several young Philadelphians, sons of the first men of that city; an adventurous spirit had induced them to leave their homes, and they were now encountering the <HI REND="italics">realities</HI>
077.sgm: of active life.  Lacy's Bar was next in order; there were many rich private leads in the vicinity of this bar, and it contained within its bounds many rich deposits.  Soon after the completion of the canal the bar was offered for sale--a <HI REND="italics">fire</HI>
077.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">flood</HI>
077.sgm: at St. Louis making the proprietors' return to the States imperative.  I was unable to learn whether said fire or flood above-mentioned had actually transpired or was merely in anticipation, nor am I prepared to name the <HI REND="italics">precise</HI>
077.sgm: amount of <HI REND="italics">net profits</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The next bar I will name Woodworth's Bar; when I visited it three men were working a machine made by a Mr. Woodworth, of New York city; its construction was somewhat on the plan of, and much resembled, a large sized coffee-mill.  For mining purposes the coffee-mill would have been decidedly preferable.  Fortunately for miners but few of the machines made in the States ever found their way into the mineral regions; this being the only one I saw during my stay in the country.  Immense numbers were shipped, and arrived in the bay of San Francisco; but, being pronounced entirely worthless, they were thrown overboard, not worth even the lighterage.  This bar also proved a failure.  The next below was Lehigh Bar; this was canalled, and immediately abandoned as worthless.  Then came Little and Great Horse-Shoe Bars, neither of which paid for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>In all the bars mentioned there were points of extreme richness.  The calculations of those engaged in canalling were based upon a false, though somewhat plausible theory; the margin being rich, they very naturally came to the conclusion that the bed of the river must be much more so.  It appears, however, that gold <HI REND="italics">does not</HI>
077.sgm: settle in the channel, but is borne along until some abrupt bend in the river checks the current, when it settles, together with the stone and earth, forming bars, which have been described in a former chapter.  It is understood that these bars are formed during the rainy season.  Torrents rush down the mountains, and on reaching the stream unite in bearing along the precious freight.  It may seem strange that the current can convey gold to any considerable distance; it is nevertheless true, and it may seem less strange to one who has known the river to rise from twenty to thirty feet in as many hours.  In such freshets the <HI REND="italics">natural</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>As the sun approaches the meridian, streams become swollen, frequently rising several feet, and fall as it disappears behind the mountains.  It ceases to rain about the first of March, but in consequence of the immense quantities of snow on the mountains, streams do not resume their natural channels until the first of July, at which time, deposits made during the flood are found, as a general thing, above water-mark.  One cause and perhaps the main one, of the almost universal failure of canalling operations is, that the facilities attained do not counterbalance the enormous expenditures requisite.  Another difficulty is that a company of thirty men cannot, in the mines, operate with the same economy of time that they can when working in pairs.  As I had lost on my stock in the Mormon Bar I determined to make it up by buying in the balance, which I did at from ten to fifteen dollars per share, and eventually sold it at several hundred per cent. advance to a company designing to operate upon it with quicksilver machines.  Gen. Winchester &amp; Co. became joint owners, and soon several of the machines were in successful operation, propelled by water drawn from the canal.  The success of the experiment was placed beyond a doubt.  The machines used were called the "Burk rocker."  They were placed on an inclined plane, and in the upper riffles, which were of iron, was placed a quantity of quicksilver.  Dirt was thrown in at the upper end of the machines, and as it was washed through, the rocking motion would bring it in contact with the quicksilver, which having a strong affinity for the gold, carefully collects it without including any other substance.  After the quicksilver has taken up, or freighted itself to its utmost capacity, and become a solid mass, or amalgam, it is taken out and its place supplied.</P>
077.sgm:<P>In separating the gold and quicksilver the amalgam is put into a retort, to the top of which is screwed a crooked iron tube, the end passing into a vessel of water.  A heat is raised under the retort of six hundred degrees, which causes the quicksilver to evaporate and pass up into the tube, when it condenses and passes down into the water.  This operation is performed at a loss of only two and a half per cent. of the quicksilver.  These machines were purchased at a cost of one thousand dollars each, although in the States they are worth less than forty.  Their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>The result attending individual enterprise was similar to that of canalling, with the exception that in the former case heavy debts were not contracted, and the individual, if he had not a fortune in his pocket, felt that what he earned was his own.  I had a good opportunity to learn the daily proceeds of each man's labor, my scale being at their service and almost universally used.  I could name one hundred individuals, take them in order as they were operating along the river, and not more than ten of the number had, at the commencement of the rainy season, sufficient means to purchase provisions for the winter.  They had labored hard; to-day, opening a lead; to-morrow, getting out an ounce; and the day after prospecting.  They had been all summer just on the eve of making a rich discovery and a fortune, the prospect was always bright and cheering, the prize just, almost, within the grasp--to-morrow--never more distant than to-morrow.  The lead is open to-day, to-morrow the reward, that to-morrow dawned to comparatively few.  It is <HI REND="italics">still</HI>
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077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Twentieth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>COMMOTION IN THE POLITICAL ELEMENTS--CALIFORNIA A STATE--SLAVERY PROHIBITED--POLITICAL CAMPAIGN, AND THE RAINY SEASON--SPEECH OF A WOULD-BE-GOVERNOR--ENTHUSIASM AND BRANDY--ELECTION DISTRICTS--BALLOT-BOXES AND UMBRELLAS--MINERS IN A TRANSITION STATE--PREPARATIONS FOR THE RAINY SEASON--PRIMITIVE HABITATIONS--TRADE IMPROVING--ADVENT OF THE RAINY SEASON--ITS TERRIFIC EFFECTS--RAPID RISE OF THE RIVER--MACHINES DESTROYED--ARRIVALS--MY STORE AND BED--A BUSINESS SUIT--DISTRESSING GROANS--THE BOTTLE A CONSOLATION--SEVERAL STRANGE SPECIMENS OF HUMANITY COOKING BREAKFAST--THE SCURVY--A DEATH.</P>
077.sgm:<P>WE now, for the first time, had a commotion in the political elements, which resulted in erecting California into a State and placing her, the "bright particular star," in this glorious constellation.  An election was ordered, and delegates selected to draft a Constitution for the State.  They met at Monterey, and after a few days' deliberation passed upon the Constitution which is hereunto annexed, and which was eventually ratified by an almost unanimous vote of the people.  The greatest unanimity prevailed at the Convention, the deliberations conducted with the utmost dignity, each seeming desirous to act for the best interests of the country.  The clause prohibiting slavery, or involuntary servitude, passed by a unanimous vote, although many of the delegates were interested in slave property in the States.  The nominations were made for State officers, and, although party lines were not strictly drawn, every preparation was made for a vigorous campaign.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The election was to take place on the 15th day of November, and by the time the nominees were ready to take the "stump," the rainy season was upon us.  Just picture to your imagination a would-be- governor, in a slouched India rubber hat, a <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
077.sgm:, and high boots, standing near a tent on the side of the mountain holding forth to a highly patriotic audience of six, the rain pouring down in torrents.  Nothing could dampen the ardor of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:of the speaker; he had enlisted in the cause of the dear people, and nothing could induce him to swerve from the performance of his duty.  The gist of his remarks was as follows:--"Fellow citizens, you <HI REND="italics">have rights to protect</HI>
077.sgm:.  [Hurrah!  Three cheers and two drinks of brandy.]  <HI REND="italics">I'll spend my last breath in the vindication of those rights</HI>
077.sgm:.  [Three more!!]  The mineral lands ought to be given to the people.  [Three times three!!!  Three cheers and six drinks.]  <HI REND="italics">Have not the sovereign people made this country what it is</HI>
077.sgm:?  [Yes!  Yes!! and great cheering.]  If I am elected I will use my influence to have this immense tract of country, now claimed by Sutter, divided among the people."  [Immense sensation and cheering.]  After order was again restored, the speaker was invited to step out of the puddle of water that had dripped from his <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
077.sgm:, and take something to drink.  The meeting was conducted with <HI REND="italics">much spirit</HI>
077.sgm:<P>At this time, this district of country, called the Minerva district, had become so populous that municipal officers had been elected, and now it was regularly divided into election districts, and arrangements made to open polls wherever it was deemed necessary.  The qualification for an elector was to be an American citizen.  The most prominent candidates for Governor were Judge Burnett, H. S. Sherwood and Rodman M. Price, of whom the former was elected.  On the day of election the ballots were deposited in a hat, over which one of the inspectors held an umbrella.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The middle of October finds the miners in a transition state.  There has not a drop of rain fallen during the entire summer, and the earth, six feet below, is as dry as on the surface; one cannot move without being enveloped in dust; and vegetation is as crisp as if it had just been taken from the oven.  There has been no haze to shield the earth from the sun, and at night the stars have twinkled with unwonted brilliancy; but now the sun has grown dim and pale, and the stars have fled to their hiding-place.  Miners are admonished that it is time to prepare for an untried winter, and on every hand is evinced a disposition not to be taken unawares.  Here on the side of the mountain is a habitation, three logs high, covered with canvas, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>General Winchester and company had just placed their quicksilver machine, and commenced successful operations on the bar, but one night destroyed their works, carrying one of their machines, laden with twenty-five pounds of quicksilver, a distance of three miles, destroying it, and emptying its valuable contents into the river.  The rise of the river was so rapid that those on the opposite side, when it commenced to rain, found it impossible to recross six hours after.  The scene was most terrific; the mountain on either side of the river, rose almost perpendicularly, and the torrents rushed down, undermining huge rocks, which, after making a few leaps, would come in contact with others of equal dimensions, when both, with one terrific bound, would dash into the chasm below.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Mining operations were, for the time, suspended, and miners, many of whom were destitute of even the protection of a tent, were hovering about their fires in a most desponding mood; many were entirely destitute of means, and cooking, perhaps, their last day's supply.  Teams were constantly arriving with miners fresh from the States, who would descend the mountain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>The store I occupied was made by driving stakes into the ground, and inclosing with common unbleached muslin; the roof flat, covered with the same material.  It had answered a good purpose during the summer, but for the rainy season, I am not prepared to say it was exactly the thing.  I do not know that the rain fell faster inside than out, but some of my neighbors insinuated that it did.  I could keep tolerably dry by wearing an India rubber cap, <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
077.sgm:, and long boots, with the aid of a good umbrella, in short, this was my regular business suit.  For a bed, I had a scaffold made of poles, on which I had a hammock stuffed with grass and straw, using a pair of blankets as covering.  In order to keep my bed dry I had a standard at the head and foot, on which was a pole running "fore and aft," serving as a ridge-pole, over which was thrown an India rubber blanket.  On going to bed I would throw up one corner of my India rubber blanket, holding my umbrella over the opening, and after taking off my boots, I would crawl in feet first, throw back the rubber to its place, then tying my umbrella to the head standard I was in bed.  My friends, Fairchild, Tracy, Jones, and Dean were not so fortunate.  They would lay down on the ground in their blankets, and in one hour would be drenched to the skin; in this condition they were obliged to spend the balance of the night.  Jones (formerly of the Cornucopia, New York) had a severe cough, his lungs being much affected, and he thought he was fast declining with the consumption.  After becoming drenched and chilled his cough would set in, which, together with his distressing groans, would render night hideous, and cast a gloom over the most buoyant spirit.  On rising in the morning, the bottle was our first consolation; it would elevate our spirits, and drive the chilly sensation from our limbs.  A few large sticks had been thrown together and set on fire, around which would be seen a dozen strange-looking specimens of humanity, one with a red flannel shirt, part of a glazed cap, and torn unmentionables; another with a woolen-blanket, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:could boast of having secured, on the previous night, what rain had fallen in its immediate vicinity; another with an India rubber <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
077.sgm:<P>A disease at this time manifested itself, the symptoms of which were of a peculiar nature.  It was called the "land scurvy," and was caused by a want of proper vegetable diet.  The blood of the system became thick and turgid, and diminished in quantity; there was but little circulation at the extremities, or near the surface of the body, the fleshy parts becoming almost lifeless; the gums became black and not unfrequently the teeth would fall out, the gums having so entirely wasted away.  The malady became fearfully prevalent, and no remedy could be obtained; vegetables were not to had, there were none in the country.  There had been a few, a very few, potatoes in the market, at prices varying from four shillings each to a dollar and a half per pound, but the supply was too scanty to arrest the disease, and many had become almost entirely disabled.</P>
077.sgm:<P>On the 28th of October, a man from Illinois fell a victim to this dreadful malady, and on the 29th, it was our painful duty to bear him to that lonely hill and consign him to the tomb.  A board was placed at his head, on which was cut his brief epitaph.  What a strange commentary upon the vicissitudes of human life.  He was once an infant, fondled and caressed by an affectionate mother, a youth counseled by a doting father, and embraced and loved by sisters and brothers.  He grew to manhood, pledged his hand and heart to the one he loved, combatted, perhaps, with adversity, and finally bade farewell to his own offspring, to die a stranger in a strange land.</P>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Twenty-first.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>DANGEROUS NAVIGATION--A TRIP OVER THE FALLS--A NIGHT FROM HOME--SAILOR HOSPITALITY--SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS--A HAZARDOUS ALTERNATIVE--A WAYWARD BOY--PREPARTIONS FOR LEAVING THE INTERIOR--DISTRIBUTION OF EFFECTS--OUR TRAVELING SUIT--START FOR SAN FRANCISCO--FAREWELL--THREE INDIVIDUALS UNDER A FULL HEAD OF STEAM--ARRIVAL AT THE "HALF-WAY TENT"--POOR ACCOMMODATIONS--A MORNING WALK AND POOR BREAKFAST--WADING LAGOONS--WILD GEESE--ARRIVAL AT THE AMERICAN RIVER--OUR TOILET, AND ENTRY INTO SACRAMENTO CITY.</P>
077.sgm:<P>THE river had become much swollen, and burst through among the rocks with the greatest fury.  The rumbling of the rocks and stone as they were hurled from their beds, was incessant and almost deafening.  Many of my friends lived on the opposite side of the river, and I had purchased a boat for their accommodation.  The only place where a boat could be rowed across with safety, was above a fall occasioned, in part, by a dam.  The water here was extremely rapid, but by heading well up stream, could be crossed in safety.  Tracy generally volunteered to do the ferrying, but when I was disengaged I would do it myself.</P>
077.sgm:<P>On one occasion, a party of six wished to cross, and I went down with them, paddled out into the stream, and as the boat came in contact with the strongest current, it swung around, when one of the passengers becoming frightened, applied a paddle on the upper side which aimed the boat for the fall, leaving no alternative but to go over.  The fall was several feet, and below it huge masses of rock; the roaring of the water was terrific, almost deafening, and it was night.  We were swept along with the velocity of an arrow, and as we came to the brink I discovered the limbs of a tree, which had floated down and caught.  Being in the stern of the boat, I rose up and as it was about to break over, jumped and caught to the limb, my companions going over with the boat.  My situation was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>I immediately went in search of my friends; fortunately, we had two sailors with us, Billy and Charley, before spoken of.  The boat ended over in passing down.  Charley and Billy found their way to the shore, but Mr. Byram was dashed along among the rocks, apparently lifeless.  They rushed in again and succeeded in dragging his body to the shore; we then hurried on to learn the fate of the others.  On reaching the bend of the river we found the boat drifted against the rock, they clinging to its sides; they threw the hawser, and we drew the boat to the shore.  Mr. Byram recovered, and we congratulated ourselves upon the auspicious termination of the adventure.  They had been purchasing a quantity of provisions--flour, sugar, coffee, &amp;c., all of which were "turned over" to tempt the appetite of the fishes.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Their encampment was a mile above, and as it was impossible to recross the river here, I went with them, in hopes of being able to ferry over in a small boat they owned, but on arriving, found it had been carried away by the freshet.  The evening was chilly; I was drenched; I had left things in an unsafe condition at the store, and as my friends imagined me drowned, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>It was now late, and the night was extremely dark.  One mile below were two sailor friends, and I resolved to reach their encampment.  The first part of the route lay over a rocky promontory, overhanging the river.  I passed over this by clinging to the shrubs and points of rocks.  Occasionally one of the latter would leap from its bed, and with one terrific bound, disappear in the water below.  On gaining the other side, I found the route easy, and soon gained the point of destination.  I received a welcome from Tom and George (before spoken of) that sailors only know how to give.  Tom cut wood, built a fire against a rock, and I was soon comfortably incased in a sailor's suit, mine hanging by the fire, George, in the meantime, boiling the tea-kettle, frying pork and toasting bread, and I was soon invited into the tent to partake of their hospitalities.  Tom assisted me in the morning; I reached my tent at noon.  To Tom, George, Charley, and Billy, (the latter has since died)--may fortune crown their efforts, and friendship always smile!</P>
077.sgm:<P>The mining districts soon became almost destitute of provisions, and the country impassable in consequence of the immense fall of rain.  There was a reported scarcity of flour, and it rose in one day, at San Francisco, from $16 to $40 per barrel, and in the mines from 30 cents to $1.50 per pound.  I had laid in a good supply at a low price, but after this was exhausted the only way in which I could keep a supply, was to buy out those who were about to return to town.  There was an almost universal desire to leave the mines, and but few remained excepting those who were from necessity compelled to.  Some were preparing to return to the States; the number, however, was few.  We had formed strong attachments, having participated in so many vicissitudes, and the thought of separating gave rise <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>Having sold out my stock, Mr. Fairchild, Mr. Jones, and myself had resolved to start on the 17th of November for San Francisco, Mr. F. and myself destined for home.  The only preparation necessary was to distribute our surplus effects among our friends; at this particular time it afforded more pleasure to give than to receive.  Nothing was movable, hardly ourselves; the earth had become so thoroughly saturated, we would either of us have been loth to accept a new suit of clothes, ragged as we were.  We each reserved a pair of pantaloons, a flannel shirt, glazed cap, and stogy boots.  These, in connection with our blankets, constituted our outfits.  Our firearms we found it difficult to dispose of; they were entirely useless, and our friends accepted them merely as an act of courtesy.  My revolver, I had carried across the Isthmus, and kept during my stay in California, and when I disposed of it, it had not had the honor of being charged.</P>
077.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 17th my successor took possession of the store, and we were preparing to start, the rain pouring down a deluge.  Our friends had all collected to bid us farewell, and to give into our charge letters to their friends.  It was a gloomy morning, and a feeling of sadness appeared to steal over the minds of those we were about to leave.  Having contracted with a gentleman who was to leave two days after, to deliver a package for me at Sacramento City, we filled our bottles with "Monogahela," and putting a certain quantity where the effects would be more immediately felt, bade farewell to all, and started up the mountain.  We were soon hailed by Tracy and Dean, who were not yet reconciled to parting with us, and who accompanied us a mile to the top of the mountain.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>It was about 2 P.M. when we resumed our journey, and we had resolved to walk to the "half-way tent," twenty-two miles distant.  We were obliged to wade through mud to the tops of our boots, and on one occasion Jones sunk so deeply into the mud that we were obliged to pry him out.  The first two miles found us much fatigued, and we were obliged to consult our bottles for relief; the next two found us running under a full head of steam, our walking beams in the finest working order.  There was an evident disposition to try our relative speed, and the probability is that we never attained a higher rate than on this particular occasion.  We did not meet any one on the road, but we met a number of trees, and although entire strangers, we made ourselves as familiar as though we had been acquainted with them for years; I hope they do not remember what we said to them.  We thought Fairchild made too much leeway; Jones had so much freight on deck that he rolled about tremendously; I found it difficult to keep on an even keel, and was so heavily laden forward, that it was almost impossible to support the "figure-head."  We all, however, made good time, considering the depth of water we drew.  Sunset (it did not rise that day) found half our journey performed, and three-fourths of our <HI REND="italics">fuel</HI>
077.sgm:<P>If I was ever glad to put into port, it was at this time, and <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
077.sgm: certainly put in in "stress of weather."  We found the tent full, and when we called for supper were told that there was nothing to eat, except a piece of salt beef which was in the barrel.  We ordered this cooked, and made a supper of brandy and beef.  We now looked about for a place to sleep, but were obliged to spread our blankets on the wet ground.  If I ever felt the necessity of a place on the dry dock, it was at this time; our clothes were wet with rain and perspiration, and now we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>The "tent" was kept by Mr. Wilkin (or Wilky,) assisted by his amiable lady.  They were from Scotland, having been in the United States about seven years, most of which time they had lived in their wagon or a tent; part of the time they had lived on the extreme frontier of Missouri, after which they crossed over to Salt Lake, then into Oregon, and finally down to California.  They had spent the summer in the mines, and after the commencement of the rainy season had started for Sacramento City with a six-mule team.  After much toil they reached this point when two of the mules were "mired," the others strayed, leaving them no alternative but to remain for the winter.  They constructed temporary accommodations for travelers, and since my return to New York I met them at the Irving House, and was happy to learn that they were most bountifully rewarded for their detention.  We rose the next morning, had our bottles refilled, and, as we had no particular appetite for salt beef, we resolved to walk ten miles to breakfast.  Our motive powers had rusted during the night, and we found it almost impossible to move, but our bottle, like quack medicines of the present day, was a universal panacea; we applied it in this case with success.  We were soon making as good time as on the previous day, but it was soon apparent that Jones must either bend on "studding-sails," or fall behind; he chose the latter alternative, and before 9 o'clock, A.M., he was "hull down."  We arrived at the "blue tent" at 10 A.M., and ordered breakfast, but we had the consolation of learning from the worthy host that he had nothing to eat.  This was just what we had had for supper the previous night, and informed him that we wished something a little better for breakfast.  He had flour, which was full of worms, and <HI REND="italics">we had warm biscuit for breakfast</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We were again under way, and soon came out upon an open plain which extended to the American River, fifteen miles distant.  This plain, although quite elevated, was covered with "lagoons," or small lakes, all swarming with wild geese, ducks and brant.  A finer opportunity for a sportman could not well be imagined, but to us the lakes afforded but little amusement; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>On arriving within sight of the ferry, we came to the margin of a lagoon that stretched away to the river, leaving us no alternative but to wade; the practicability of this could only be learned by sounding.  This was not a time for deliberation, and taking my blankets, &amp;c., on my shoulder, I waded in; after wading to my neck it grew more shallow, and my companion followed.  We reached the ferry boat and were soon on the opposite bank of the river.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We were now within sight of Sacramento City, and as it was Sunday our first attention was bestowed upon our toilet.  We sat down on the bank of the river, pulled off our boots, poured the water out of them, wrung out our socks, and after replacing these we took off our caps, brushed up our hair, imagined that our moustache curled, (we could not tell, for the river was too muddy to reflect our faces,) adjusted the skirt of our flannel, then throwing our chest out, with our head at an angle of about 23&deg;, we stood in for the city, passing in at the head of J. street, which we found in fine navigable order, the water extending to the door-sills on either side.</P>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Twenty-second.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>A DRY SUIT--RESTAURANTS--WAITERS AND CHAMPAGNE--TWO INDIVIDUALS "TIGHT"--A $10 DINNER--MONTE-BANKS AND MUD--GAMBLING AND ITS RESULTS--GROWTH OF SACRAMENTO CITY--UNPARALLELED PROSPERITY--A REVULSION AND ITS CAUSE--THE FLOOD.</P>
077.sgm:<P>OUR first want was a dry suit, consequently we were on the <HI REND="italics">qui vive</HI>
077.sgm: for a clothing establishment; the first store we came to was unfinished, the front being hung with blue jean.  This we pulled aside, and found, not only clothing, but an old acquaintance.  I was soon in my dishabille, and as soon in full dress.  We now feel comfortable; but near by is a restaurant, where they serve up beef and venison steak, chickens and turkeys, with coffee, tea, and champagne, &amp;c., &amp;c.  Do not be impatient, dear reader, for only think what we had at our last supper and breakfast.  We soon found ourselves seated at a table at the Empire, surrounded by three waiters, and I never saw waiters before that bore such a strong resembance to guardian angels.  I could hardly tell the difference.  One hour after, <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
077.sgm: were in the same position.  <HI REND="italics">We</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We now sallied forth into the street, and spent the afternoon and evening in the most jovial manner, going the rounds of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:gambling houses, theatres, &amp;c.  The gambling and eating-houses were thronged, and appeared to be doing all the business of the town.  <HI REND="italics">Monte-banks</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Here were gray-haired men commingling with boys in the game--profanity and dissipation--some of them having passed, perhaps, within the last twenty-four hours, from a competence to penury.  A gloom seemed to pervade the countenance, revealing the reckless despondence that reigned within.</P>
077.sgm:<P>How truthfully were their feelings portrayed in the gloom of the surrounding elements.  Here were young men, who, a few months previous, had left their friends and homes with vigorous constitutions, and characters unblemished, to seek their fortunes in this land of gold.  A few short months had sufficed to accomplish the work of ruin.  In an unguarded moment they were tempted from the path of rectitude; they visited the gaming-tables and halls of dissipation; and when the brief dream was over, they awoke and found ruin, like a demon, staring them in the face.  They had neither means nor character, and their constitutions had been laid waste by the blighting hand of dissipation.  Who can calculate the hours of anguish, or tears of blood that have been wrung from the hearts of bereaved parents and friends by that blighting curse.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Sacramento had become a large city (see Plate), and, next to San Francisco, the most important town in the State.  It numbered at this time from twelve to fifteen thousand inhabitants.  The town is regularly laid out, the streets running at right angles, many of which are closely built upon for the distance of a mile.  The margin of the river is bold, and vessels of the largest class are moored to its banks.  Some of them are used as stores, other as dwelling or boarding places.  The steamer Senator runs up to the bank and puts out a gang-plank, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>Many kinds of goods had become extremely scarce, and were selling at exorbitant prices.  This was the case with woollen clothing, boots, and provisions.  Common flannel shirts were selling at from $5 to $8 each; blankets at from $12 to $20 per pair; and ordinary boots from $20 to $32.  Long boots of grained leather were held at, and selling for 6 ozs.($96.)  The interior, or mining regions, were entirely destitute, and merchants were in town from every point, trying to contract for the transportation of goods.  Teamsters knew the country to be impassable, and although as high as $50, and even $100 per 100 lbs. was offered for a distance of fifty miles, no one would make the attempt.  The consequence was, that miners were driven into town in many cases, to prevent starvation.  Trade, during the latter part of the summer, and for the first one or two weeks of the rainy season, had been remarkably brisk in Sacramento City.  The advance in prices of all the staple articles had enabled merchants to reap immense profits, and many, within a few weeks, had made fortunes.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The impetus to trade had come upon them unawares; some had leased their stores for short terms; others merely kept possession from day to day; but when this season of prosperity burst upon them, all were anxious to secure leases for the longest possible period.  Thousands were eager to embark in trade, offering unparalleled rents--in many cases as high as $100 per day for a store.  Long leases were granted at these exorbitant rents, and in consequence of the scarcity of tenements, lots were purchased--the prices predicated upon the above--buildings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Twenty-third.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO--A FLEET--MUD--PROSPERITY--SHIPS AND STOREHOUSES--BUOYANT SEAS--SHOALS IN BUSINESS--REVULSION AND FIRE--THEIR CONSEQUENCES--SAIL FOR SANTA BARBARA--THE TOWN--DEXTEROUS FEAT BY A GRIZZLY BEAR--FASHIONS--SAIL FOR ST. LUCAS--PORPOISES AND SEA FOWLS, THEIR SPORTS--APPROACH THE TOWN--PECULIAR SKY--CAVERNS IN THE SEA--CACTUS--BEAUTIFUL SEA SHELLS--SAIL FOR ACAPULCO--MAGNIFICENT SCENERY--VOLCANOS AND CASCADES--VOLCANOS AT NIGHT--ETERNAL SNOW.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ON the 22d November we procured tickets on the steamboat "Senator," at $30 each, and at 8 A. M., were under way for San Francisco.  We passed along down at North River speed, arriving at 5 P. M.  As we passed through the bay, we were struck with the vast amount of shipping, numbering no less than five hundred sail--a fleet which, in tonnage and number of sail, was never before equalled.  (See Plate.)  The city had also made gigantic strides.  The sand-hills had been leveled, and the city had, as it were, in a day, taken the whole of the surrounding country under its wings.  Here, however, as in Sacramento City, the streets were most bountifully supplied with mud, requiring, insome cases, most dexterous movements to keep above ground.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Nothing had occurred, up to this time, to check the tide of prosperity, which had borne the citizens on, to the very acme of their ambition.  Every one in trade had realized fortunes, and were still bountifully supplied with goods, some having large invoices piled outside for want of room within.  Still all were ambitious to add to their stock, and were hiring money at ten per cent. a month to invest in provisions, boots, and winter clothing, all of which were commanding exorbitant prices.  Chilian flour, in two hundred pound sacks, was purchased by the quantity at $40 per sack, in anticipation of a scarcity; other provisions at prices predicated upon the above.  Rents were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:extravagantly high, and real estate commanding unheard-of prices.  Many magnificent buildings had been erected for banking-houses, hotels, and gambling saloons, all occupied--their tenants reaping daily fortunes; gamblers seemed to be on the very top wave of prosperity, and they were about the only class of citizens who confined themselves strictly to their <HI REND="italics">legitimate</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The scarcity of facilities for storing goods, had induced parties to purchase ships, which after cutting away the spars, they would head in shore, run aground, and scuttle; then connecting them to the shore by piers, and building a story on the upper deck, they were ready for occupation, being less exposed in case of fire, and more easy of access, than buildings on shore.  The Niantic and Apollo, ships well known in this latitude, were thus converted, but have since, together with the city, been converted into ashes.  The water-lots belonging to the city were sold at auction, and purchased by parties, who immediately commenced extensive docks, and were soon in a condition to invite vessels along side.  Improvements were commenced, and matured as if by magic and no cloud was discernible in the business horizon, to dampen the ardor or cause the business man to look out for a cross sea.  No one was fearful of shoals, as none were laid down in their charts; all forgetting, that, no matter how buoyant a sea, it always finds a shoal upon which to break.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Business was transacted on a gigantic scale, and with an indomitable energy, but with a recklessness unparalleled.  It must have been apparent to every one who looked upon these transactions with an eye of experience, that the least check to ruling prices must cause a revulsion that would prostrate the entire commercial interest of the country.  Being entirely dependent upon the Atlantic cities for supplies, the market was liable to be overstocked at any moment; but business men did not seem to take this into consideration, but operated as if an embargo had been laid upon all shipments, and they were about to secure all the supplies that were ever to reach the shores of California.  This was the foundation upon which business transactions were predicated, and, to finish the structure, money was hired at from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>Miners were returning to town by scores, driven in by the scarcity of provisions, owing to the impassable condition of the country, and merchants of the interior were driven from their posts by the same cause.  All could not get employment in town, and but few were able to remain in idleness; the consequence was that many sailed for the Sandwich and other Pacific islands in search of labor, or in hopes of finding a less expensive place to spend the winter.  Others were preparing to return home.  These causes, together with the arrival of large consignments of provisions, were soon most sensibly felt.  Flour was offering in the market at $25 per sack; many having heavy stocks on hand for which they had paid $40, and with money for which they were then paying ten per cent. a month.  Every steamer from the interior, as well as those clearing from the port, were crowded, and passage tickets selling at a premium.  Every house in town was full; comfortable accommodations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>Dear reader, having a pressing business engagement at San Juan de Nicaragua, I will presume upon your leisure so far as to ask you to accompany me.  I will give you a free passage, and return with you in thirty days, claiming your indulgence for the want of interest in the trip.  You undoubtedly remember the excitement attending your advent on board the steamer, your last trip to sea--mine was similar.  At 12 o'clock, M., we had the "heave ahead!" clanking of the cable, firing of cannon, and at half-past 12 passed through the "Golden Gate."  Now our steamer makes her obeisance to Neptune, who steps aside to let her pass.  On leaving the outer bay, we put our wheel "hard down," and stood away to the south, the coast range, as well as the Sierra Nevada, seeming in tears at our departure.  We steam along, now raising a peak of the mountain, and now sinking it below the horizon, until the second day, when we stand in toward shore, and soon arrive in full view of Santa Barbara, presenting a fertile plain near the coast, with mountains in the background.</P>
077.sgm:<P>This is the point at which Col. Stevenson's regiment was disbanded.  It is a small town hardly deserving the name, and has acquired its name and importance from its mission, the mission-house being a building of great capacity, containing a collection of valuable paintings.  The front makes some pretensions to architectural beauty, with two towers, each containing two bells; between the towers, is a representation of the sun, the disc being the dial of a clock.  (See Plate.)  There is a fountain near the church, the water being brought from the mountain in a trench, and thrown from the mouths of grizzly bears.  Why the grizzly bear was chosen by the worthy "Padre" to do the ornamental part, I was unable to learn, perhaps owing to feats of dexterity performed by his <HI REND="italics">bearship</HI>
077.sgm:<P>At the time of the arrival of the California regiment, one of the <HI REND="italics">Bruin</HI>
077.sgm: family had taken up his residence on a <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
077.sgm:, not far distant.  The natives, wishing to exhibit their dexterity, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:offered to go and lasso Bruin, for their amusement.  Now, said Bruin had been a quiet neighbor, and had taken nothing excepting the appurtenances of said <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
077.sgm:, and had a most religious aversion to any additional <HI REND="italics">ties</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Those interested in the prevailing fashions, are referred to the accompanying Plate.  Ladies' hats are dispensed with; a scarf or parasol is used instead.  Gentlemen wear white pants, over which is a pair of black velvet, open at the sides of the leg, the edges trimmed with bell-buttons.  A short jacket of the same is also worn, trimmed with bell-buttons over which is thrown a <HI REND="italics">serapa or poncho</HI>
077.sgm:.  A heavy <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
077.sgm:<P>After taking on board several passengers, a few head of cattle, and a small supply of vegetables, we again weigh anchor and stand out to sea; the weather is delightful, the sea rolls sluggishly, and our steamer speeds her way through the waters like a thing of life; now rushing through a school of porpoises, and now a school of flying-fish are driven from their element; now a whale throws a column of spray into the air; the seagulls collect around but soon disperse and flit along "gaily over the sea;" the albatrosses are floating about lazily; while Mother Carey's chickens display as much spirit as if the old lady had just let them from the coop.</P>
077.sgm:<P>As we approached St. Lucas we noticed that peculiarity of the sky for which the Pacific coast is celebrated.  (See Plate.)  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>Here the sea rolls high, but with such uniformity that when breaking upon the shore the air is caught underneath, which bursting through throws up columns of spray.  Three <HI REND="italics">coyotas</HI>
077.sgm:<P>St. Lucas, like Santa Barbara, is hardly deserving the name of a town, containing but thirteen houses, which are constructed of adobes and cactus.  The only peculiarity is that the natives speak the English Language.  The surrounding country is extremely barren, producing but just enough to sustain the inhabitants; vessels touch here for water, which is superior, and beef, which is obtained back of the mountain.  This town is situated at the outer point of the entrance to the Gulf of California.  The time is probably not far distant when the river Gila will be navigated by steam, and the fertile plains bordering on its banks, and those of its tributaries, be brought into subjection to the plow, when this vast empire must disgorge its unbounded resources through the Gulf of California, and dispense its agricultural and mineral wealth to all parts of the civilized world.  I say the time is probably not far distant; it is at hand; it is in the nature of things, that the Gila country within ten years will be a <HI REND="italics">State in the Union</HI>
077.sgm:.  Then St. Lucas may become a city, and many others of great commercial importance will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>Our next point is Acapulco, distant about six hundred miles; this part of the route presents some of the finest scenery on the Pacific coast, and perhaps the most imposing in the world.  It is a succession of volcanos, including Popocatapetl, the most elevated volcano in Mexico; this towers up through masses of clouds, appearing shrouded in gloom at its base, but rears its head in majestic triumph, offering its light to the stars.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Each of these volcanos presents some different features; from the craters of some the smoke issues with as much regularity as from a chimney; others are enveloped in smoke; some seem to have almost subdued the internal fires; the emission of smoke being almost imperceptible.  The most striking phenomenon was exhibited by one of great elevation, rearing its head above the surrounding mountains, at some distance from the coast; it would belch forth a cloud of smoke, which for a moment would seem a huge ball suspended over the crater; this would soon commence to assume a different form, the lighter parts of the smoke ascending and expanding, while the more weighty would settle--elongating the cloud--giving it the appearance of a huge pine tree.  This would float away on the atmosphere, and after an interval of half an hour, would be followed by its successor.  The regularity of these manifestations was most astonishing; the volcano seemed to have entered into a contract with the atmosphere to furnish it with a cloud every half hour.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The mountains in the background tower up, one above another, until the last loses itself in the blue of heaven.  These seemed undergoing a constant change; now a cloud throws a deep cavern-like shade here, and now the sun chases it away, and shows us a vale watered by a mountain stream and teeming with the choicest plants of nature; now we see in the distant blue what appears a gigantic marble column; we look through a glass and it proves a cascade breaking from the crest of a mountain; now we see a mountain rearing its head into the very clouds, and shrouded in eternal snow, this reflecting the rays of the sun, appears the dome of some vast structure.  Although volcanos are grand and impressive by day, nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter Twenty-fourth</HI>
077.sgm:<P>ACAPULCO--THE TREE OF LOVE--BATHING AND FEMALES--A CALIFORNIAN IN A TIGHT PLACE--EARTHQUAKES--SAIL FOR REALEJO--VOLCANO VIEJO--ITS DEVASTATING ERUPTION--REALEJO AND HARBOR--A CART AND ITS PASSENGERS--A WALL-STREET FINANCIER FLEECED--CHINANDEGA--ITS BEAUTIFUL ARBORS--BATHING--PREPARING TORTILLOS--LEON--ITS MAGNIFICENCE AND DESOLATION--DON PEDRO VACA AND FAMILY.</P>
077.sgm:<P>As we approach Acapulco, the most striking feature is the telegraph, which is erected on one of the highest peaks of the mountain, and from which, at the approach of a steamer, a blue flag is displayed, or a white one at the approach of a sailing vessel.  The town is completely land-locked, there being not the slightest indication of it until passing around the bluff into the inner bay, when the castle is seen directly in our course, and passing on, bearing to the left, the town is seen stretching away up the side of the mountain.  The bay has the appearance of a lake being entirely shut in by mountains.  Our steamer passed on to within fifteen or twenty rods of the town when we dropped anchor and were immediately boarded by the officer of the port, also by innumerable men and boys for passengers, and females with fruit.  Passengers are taken into bungoes, or canoes, which are headed in until the bow strikes the shore, when they take their stand preparatory to a jump as the sea runs back.  (See Plate.)  Not unfrequently they are overtaken by the next sea, which is extremely embarrassing, particularly if one has just changed his linen.  We entered the town at the foot of the main street; two churches are seen, each supporting a tower, the custom-house being in the foreground at the left.  The buildings are of one story, constructed of stone or <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
077.sgm:, and covered with tile.  This is one of the most beautifully located towns on the Pacific coast.  It is never visited by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:blighting winds but is shut in by mountains, watered by mountain rivulets, and supplied with all the tropical fruits, which grow here spontaneously, and in the greatest abundance.  It reminds one of the "happy valley" of "Rasselas."  Along the margin of the bay are trees of peculiar shape called the "amata," or tree of love, the form of the top resembling an umbrella, under which hammocks are slung--and people enjoy their <HI REND="italics">siestas</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The females here are celebrated for their beauty, finely developed forms, and graceful bearing, as well as for their vivacity and winning pathos in conversation.  They possess many peerless traits of character, and manifest a devoted attachment to their parents and offspring.  The full dress of a lady consists of a white chemise, a colored skirt flounced at the bottom, and a scarf which serves alternately as a shawl and bonnet.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The market is well supplied with every variety of fruit and cakes, and beef by the yard.  The stands are mostly attended by females.  The first salutation upon entering the market-place is from the little girls, who hail you with, "Say, Americano! lemonade, picayune?" holding up to you a plate containing a glass of lemonade, as will be seen by the accompanying Plate.  At the left, in the foreground, is seen a Sen&tilde;ora making love to an <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
077.sgm: who looks from underneath his huge <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
077.sgm:, and seems <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:to hold the tighter, his lemon basket and jug.  Then there is little <HI REND="italics">Nin&tilde;a</HI>
077.sgm: with her picayune-lemonade, and <HI REND="italics">Muchacho</HI>
077.sgm: with his hat on his head, inverted, and filled with lemons.  He was requested to stand for this drawing, and looked the very personation of a corn-field effigy.  Then there is <HI REND="italics">Sen&tilde;ora</HI>
077.sgm:<P>In passing down from Acapulco to Realejo, there is a continuation of the same magnificent scenery, and as you near the harbor, you see towering up from the Cordilleras, Viejo, the most elevated volcano in Central America.  (See Plate.)  It is seen rearing its head above the clouds, and belching forth a column of smoke.  This volcano, for many years, ceased to burn; but a few years since, the whole of the surrounding country became agitated; the air was filled for several days, with smoke so dense and black, that it entirely obscured the sun, rendering it dark as night.  The inhabitants were appalled with terror, some fled the country, others collected their families and shut themselves up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:in their houses, or assembled <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Realejo has a fine harbor, being situated on an arm of the ocean.  As you pass in, passing an island at the entrance, you find yourself in a bay of sufficient capacity to accommodate the navies of the world.  Our steamer passed up three miles to a dock which was being constructed by Howard and Son, and to which we made fast.  This is one of the coal depots for the line, and preparations were making to construct suitable buildings.  After landing our baggage, we engaged "bungoes" to convey us to Realejo, three miles distant, and as we passed along up, we found the margin of the bay low and swampy, and, in some places, as will be seen at the right, above the dock, forests of mango-trees growing up from the water.  Several rivers put in at the head of the bay, their banks low and swampy, presenting a very unhealthy appearance.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Realejo is a town of 400 inhabitants.  The houses are one story, built of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
077.sgm:<P>At the left, in the accompanying Plate, will be seen a cart, drawn by two yoke of oxen, and lashed to their horns are sticks, four feet in length, which fall against their foreheads, and by which they draw.  The cart-wheels are made by sawing two cuts from a log, and boring holes through at the heart; a pole is run through, with a linch-pin hole in each end.  A rude frame of reed or cane is put on to keep the wheels from running together, and as this is covered with raw hides, it serves as a protection to the passengers in case of rain.  When all are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:ready, the driver mounts the tongue, with a long pole, prepared to "stir up the animals;" he gives the inimitable whoop, and they are under way.  When he wants them to bear to the left, he applies the end of the pole to the right-hand leader, shoves him out, and they come to, and <HI REND="italics">vice versa</HI>
077.sgm:.  On the road there is always in attendance a little boy, whose duty it is to "grease the wheels."  He is supplied with a quantity of green bark, and when the wheels creak he applies a piece; it winds around the axle, and seems to ease the pain.  This, to a person accustomed to an easy carriage, would seem an uncomfortable mode of performing a journey; yet, dear reader, in this same cart, at this particular time, there is a gentleman and lady, well-known in New York circles, on their way to Nicaragua, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
077.sgm: to the United States.  They are seated on their trunks, in a recumbent attitude, with heads uncovered, each drop of the wheel seeming to <HI REND="italics">give rise</HI>
077.sgm:<P>There is a spacious hotel now being built here, and there is a prospect that the town will become Americanized.  We were obliged to take lodgings at a private house.  We lived on chickens, eggs, and <HI REND="italics">carna</HI>
077.sgm:, or beef dried in strings, and sold by the yard.  At night we slung ourselves up in hammocks, at the mercy of the mosquitos.  After a detention of two days, we succeeded in hiring passage, in carts, for Chinandega.  Our driver was anxious to start at an early hour, and <HI REND="italics">hitched his oxen to the cart at</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Nothing could have been more ludicrous than the appearance of the passengers, as each had assumed a peculiar attitude.  Here sat a lank doctor of six feet three, his feet hanging out at the fore-end of the cart, his legs and body being warped up along the side of the covering, his head sticking out behind.  On the other side, seated flat in the bottom, was a man very nearly as tall, but not half so amiable, who had somewhat the appearance of a clothes-rack unshipped, and seemed to think this a suitable occasion for the use of <HI REND="italics">hard words</HI>
077.sgm:.  He was under oath all day, and swore himself to sleep at night.  Soon after starting, our driver, with the greatest precision, brought up against a rock, which not only caused a great mortality <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>Our driver was a decided genius in his way, and with a suitable pair of pantaloons, and a clean shirt, would have done honor to Wall-street.  He would hide his oxen every opportunity, and then throw a native boy in our way, who would offer to find them for $5.  I need not add that the reward was divided between them.  One transaction of this kind we thought quite sufficient; and in his subsequent financial transactions he was not so successful, as the sequel will show.  His entire wardrobe was a shirt, which he carried in his hat.  Our <HI REND="italics">muchacho</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The country from Realejo to Chinandega, is a continuous mudhole, and, together with the intense heat and our wretched conveyance, made our sufferings intolerable.  The distance was but seven miles, still as night overtook us, and our team gave out, we were obliged to encamp before reaching the town.  In the morning, our driver went out in search of the team, but soon returned, pronouncing them <HI REND="italics">unfindable</HI>
077.sgm:.  This was most vexatious.  We were almost in sight of Chinandega, but with the prospect of being detained for hours.  Our driver was accompanied by a worthy, of about his own age and personal appearance.  We sent our driver out again in search, but his companion remained.  After loitering for half an hour, he proposed going out in search of the team, thought he could find them for five dollars; we, as if wishing to drive the best bargain we could, asked him if he could not find them for less; he came down to four, three, two, and one dollar, and finally to twenty-five cents.  We took him, tied his hands behind him, then tied him to a tree; we then cut a half-dozen good sized <HI REND="italics">saplings</HI>
077.sgm:, designing to "put him through a course of sprouts."  He was almost frantic, and seemed to look upon this as a crisis in his affairs.  We asked him where the oxen were, he said, "just over the hill;" we asked him if our driver knew it, he said, "Si, Sen&tilde;or."  We told him to call him, and in a moment he was at hand.  He looked with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:apparent concern at the situation of his <HI REND="italics">companion</HI>
077.sgm:, and endeavored to keep beyond the orbit of our <HI REND="italics">saplings</HI>
077.sgm:.  We ordered him to back up to a tree, he fell on his knees and said he would find the team in " <HI REND="italics">una momento</HI>
077.sgm:," and in a moment they were at the tongue of our cart; we now demanded his half of the five dollars already extorted, which he immediately paid over, and seemed to breathe more freely.  We now released his companion, in part, in order to give him an opportunity to escape, which we saw he was anxious to do.  He improved the golden moment, for as we were making certain demonstrations with our <HI REND="italics">saplings</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Chinandega is a beautiful town, well laid out, the streets running at right angles, and built upon compactly.  In the suburbs, the streets are walled up, with the fluted cactus, with an occasional opening through which you enter into ornamented groves and arbors.  Nothing can exceed the beauty and luxury of these retreats.  Fruits of the most delicious flavor grow spontaneously, every vine blooms, and the air laden with incense, breathes through, whispering gently to the foliage; here are also innumerable tropical birds, lending their notes and plumage to the scene.  This town is celebrated for its beautiful women, and never did I look upon such specimens of female grace and loveliness.  Their eyes were dark and lustrous, and their countenances, like their native clime, always beaming with sunshine.  The town numbers several churches and convents of great extent, one of the former being surmounted by a spacious dome and spire, (see Plate,) and furnished with an organ and valuable scriptural paintings.  Near the town is a stream and pool, the favorite bathing-places of the inhabitants.  (See Plate.)  In the pool are seen both sexes, the Sen&tilde;oritas displaying their graceful forms, without the least reserve or sense of impropriety.  Water is obtained here for the use of the town; bathers fill the earthen jars, when the Sen&tilde;oritas place them upon their heads and walk gracefully away.  Here are seen a party of females preparing corn for "[tortillos?];" they boil it in water into which is thrown a handful of ashes; it is then put into a basket and the hull removed, by getting in with their feet; it is then washed, dried, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>I engaged a cart to take myself and baggage to Grenada, but after waiting one day, with no prospect of starting, I purchased a horse, and engaged passage for my trunk in a cart that was about to start, and was soon under way.  We passed through Chichigalpa, Poselagua, &amp;c., small towns, and at night, put up at a miserable <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
077.sgm:<P>This is a place of much importance, being the home of the aristocracy and talent of the country.  It is ornamented with public buildings, churches, and convents which, for extent and magnificence, are not equalled in the country.  The plaza is spacious, and surrounded by public buildings, elaborately ornamented with stucco, all indicating the work of a master-hand.  My first impressions were of the most pleasing character, but upon extending my walk, a feeling of sadness insensibly stole upon me.  Here, too, amidst the beauties, I might say the perfections of nature, here in this almost celestial atmosphere, is found the impress of those sanguinary revolutions, with which this doomed country has been laid waste.  One half the town is in ruins.  Palaces that were once the scene of regal banquests, are now roofless, and tenanted only by loathsome reptiles.  Here, are figures, representing Liberty and Peace, now half-buried beneath the ruins, their faces bearing the marks of the ruthless sabre.  The political, like the natural existence of this country, has always been precarious; her social elements, like her subterranean caverns, have always been in a state of agitation; the lava of human passions frequently bursting forth, devastating, and drenching the country with blood.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The inhabitants of Leon were, as a class, superior to any I had seen in the country; the men were robust, active, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:intelligent, and the females beautiful.  They seemed more nearly allied to the Castilian than any I had seen in any of the departments of Spanish America.  Hospitality is the predominant characteristic; we frequently found ourselves under obligations, and owing debts of gratitude I fear it will never be in our power to cancel.  We feel under particular and lasting obligation to Don Pedro Vaca, and family, for their unsolicited attentions.  It was to them we were indebted for a bountiful repast, which was prepared and served by the accomplished daughters,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Whose sympathetic smiles chased fatigue away,<LB>And changed the night of melancholy into day.<LB></HI>
077.sgm:<P>They were beautiful, and unconsciously so.  I was at a loss which most to admire, the graceful forms, finely-chiseled features, lustrous eyes, and flowing hair, or that soft winning artlessness, which was so pree&die;minently theirs.  There was a daughter-in-law in the family; she was also beautiful, but her beauty was in strong contrast with that of the daughters--she having auburn hair, light eyes, and an alabaster complexion.  I here fell in with Capt. B., an "old salt," who very kindly received my trunk into the cart with his own.</P>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Twenty-fifth</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>A PROBLEM IN MATHEMATICS WORKED OUT WITH A CANE--PUEBLO NUEVA--CULTIVATING THE ACQUAINTANCE OF A HORSE--LOOKING FOR THE RIDER--AN "OLD SALT" STUCK IN THE MUD--UNCOMFORTABLE NIGHT'S REST--NAGAROTES--LAKE LEON AND THE SURROUNDING VOLCANOS--MATARES--DELIGHTFUL COUNTRY--MANAGUA--DON JOSE MARIA RIVAS--NINDAREE--RUINS OF A VOLCANO--A LONG INDIVIDUAL IN SPURS--A DILEMMA--ONE OF MY HORSE'S LEGS IN MOTION--A BOY IN A MUSICAL MOOD--ENTRY INTO MASSAYA--BLOOMERISM.</P>
077.sgm:<P>AFTER remaining three hours at Leon, we were again in motion; not, however, without the usual " <HI REND="italics">poco tiempo</HI>
077.sgm:."  Our driver now had half a dozen " <HI REND="italics">compan&tilde;eros</HI>
077.sgm:;" and in this country people are slow, in mathematical progression, or retrogression--what takes one half an hour to do, takes three six hours.  Our captain, however, worked out this problem with his cane upon the back of one of the drivers, which produced a very different result.  Our team did not get hungry, nor our drivers fatigued; the latter manifested a particular aversion to the captain's system of mathematics.  The very sight of his cane would create a <HI REND="italics">stampede</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Our route, during the day, lay through a densely timbered country, the road muddy, and heat excessive; our team becoming much jaded.  We moved on until 11 P.M., when, finding feed, we encamped for the night; we found neither a downy pillow nor a musquito net, but were obliged to drop down in the mud at the mercy of those vile insects.  Three hours of <HI REND="italics">rest</HI>
077.sgm: sufficed, and at 2 A.M., we were again in motion, and at nine arrived at Pueblo Nueva.  Here we found nothing new, excepting that the inhabitants wore hats and pantaloons.  We had breakfast and were again in motion, our route, as on the previous day, being through a densely timbered country, with extremely muddy roads.  I had purchased a horse and equipage, and anticipated a pleasant day's ride.  My horse and myself were strangers, but I was soon in a fair way of <HI REND="italics">cultivating</HI>
077.sgm: his acquaintance.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:party had gone on.  After arranging my saddle, I mounted, gave the word, and started, myself, but my horse did not; I applied my spur gently, but no signs of life; I applied both spurs, with the same result.  I dismounted, examined the saddle, and finding all right, I again mounted; but with all my arguments I could not induce him to take the first step.  Presuming there was something wrong, I again dismounted, and went into a critical examination.  The saddle was properly adjusted, he had the usual number of legs, and seemed in good condition.  There was nothing malicious in his eye, nor was he stuck in the mud.  I cut a fair-sized cane and again mounted, but with this additional argument I could not induce him to move, although it was accompanied by the most vehement jestures.  He would occasionally look me in the face, and seem to say, "I don't <HI REND="italics">exactly</HI>
077.sgm: understand what this means."  Three natives coming along at this particular juncture, I induced them to go behind and push; their first effort caused a general relaxation of the muscular system, and the next moment my horse was on his back, his eyes rolled up, the very picture of resignation; <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
077.sgm:<P>I soon overtook the captain, he being on foot, a short distance in the rear of the party, and informed him of the difficulty I had had with my horse.  He thought it was owing to his reluctance at leaving home, and proposed to buy a half-interest, and I pay half the expenses of the cart.  Two influences operated upon my mind in coming to a conclusion; one, that my trunk was already on the cart, the other that I thought one owner quite insufficient for <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
077.sgm: a horse.  The captain mounted, and I hurried on to overtake the team.  Night soon overtook us, and with it a terrific thunder storm.  It was extremely dark, and we were obliged to grope about to find our way, the rain pouring down in torrents.  We had distanced the captain, but he soon informed us of his locality by bawling out lustily for help.  We were startled, and hurried back to his assistance, when we found him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:mounted, the only difficulty being that our horse imagined himself stuck in the mud.  The captain had exhausted all the arguments of spurs and stogy, but could not succeed in dispelling from his mind this strange hallucination.  We cut a couple of <HI REND="italics">saplings</HI>
077.sgm:<P>As if to seal our fate for the night, our cart became entangled, and fastened in a mud-hole; this was a most inauspicious state of things, and to say that we were vexed is using a tame term.  There is always one alternative, in our case there were two; we could either stand up in the rain, or lay down in the mud; we chose the former, and as soon as it was sufficiently light, disentangled our cart, and at nine arrived at Nagarotes.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We were in a sad plight to make our appearance among bright eyes.  We were in a similar condition to the individual who had not slept any for three nights--last night, to-night, and to-morrow night, with the addition, in our case, of having been thoroughly saturated with rain.  Our driver, as if to show his superior wisdom, took his hat from beneath a rawhide in the cart, and dressed in dry pants and shirt, the first clothing he had had on since our first acquaintance with him.  Nagarotes is a miserable town; the inhabitants a mixture of Spanish and Indian, the latter predominating.  They are all extremely robust and healthy in appearance.</P>
077.sgm:<P>After breakfast we moved on, and at 12 M. arrived at Lake Leon.  The appearance of this lake as it opened to our view was peculiarly striking.  It is shut in by lofty mountains, which tower up in innumerable peaks of volcanic origin, from many of which the smoke curls gracefully out, commingling with the clouds.  From the center of the lake rises an island of conical form, which towers up as if to look into the surrounding craters.  While our driver was feeding his team we prepared for a bath.  We were, however, much disappointed in the anticipated pleasure, finding the heat of the water almost insufferable.  Our first sensation was that of pain, and we were soon again in our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>We passed along down to Matares, a small town situated on an eminence overlooking the lake, and inhabited by descendants of the African race.  We breakfasted on chickens, <HI REND="italics">frijoles, tortillos, eggs</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Night overtook us, and we encamped on the bank of the lake; starting early in the morning we descended a hill, being the immediate bank of the lake, and at sunrise arrived at Managua, which is situated at the foot of the lake.  We breakfasted with Don Jose Maria Rivas.  He was a man of much intelligence, and seemed to feel a lively interest in the affairs of the United States, as well as those of his own country.  He alluded to General Taylor's career, and spoke of his death as a national calamity.  We could not prevail upon him to accept remuneration for our breakfast, but pressed it upon a member of the family.  We hope we may some day have the honor of serving the worthy Don at our own board.</P>
077.sgm:<P>After a detention of two hours, we were again under way, passing through a most delighful country, with highly cultivated plantations, watered by rivulets running from the mountains.  We passed along on the margin of the stream which connects Lake Leon with Lake Nicaragua, running in the direction of the latter.  After a fatiguing day's march night overtook us, and our driver very considerately got the cart fast in another mudhole.  We encamped, and soon had the satisfaction of hearing the rumbling of distant thunder, and soon were wet to the skin.  In the morning at sunrise we were at Nindaree; soon after leaving this town we came to what appeared the <HI REND="italics">ruins</HI>
077.sgm: of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>I had two companions who were mounted on donkeys.  (See Plate).  Our <HI REND="italics">long</HI>
077.sgm: friend was obliged to hold up his feet to keep them from dragging on the ground; he wore spurs, but they were, <HI REND="italics">at first</HI>
077.sgm:, of no use to him; when he would raise his feet to apply them, they would be so far <HI REND="italics">aft</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We were disposed to make as favorable an impression upon our <HI REND="italics">entre&acute;e</HI>
077.sgm: as possible.  My other companion had hoisted his umbrella, and got his donkey well waked up; I had been leading <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
077.sgm: horse all the morning, wishing to make my advent on a <HI REND="italics">fresh</HI>
077.sgm: animal.  As we were about to ascend the hill I mounted; my horse at this moment was seized with a most voracious appetite.  I applied my spurs, which only seemed to give him a keener relish for the grass.  I pulled upon the bridle--it seemed to open his mouth the wider, but go he would not.  My companions had left me, and even the cart had passed; and now a party of females, laden with corn for the market, walked leisurely by, not, however, without giving a mischievous wink at my perplexity.  This was too much; I dismounted, cut a heavy stick, and again mounted.  Under the influence of this, he seemed to devour small brush with the greatest avidity.  I must confess I felt cornered; what to do I did not know.  I hailed a native lad who was passing, and requested him to go behind and push; this the horse seemed to think derogatory to his <HI REND="italics">standing</HI>
077.sgm:, and raising one of his hoofs, he struck the lad about <HI REND="italics">midships</HI>
077.sgm:; the precise number of summersets he turned, I am not prepared to say.  He soon gained his feet, and, in a most musical mood, took the longest kind of steps in the direction of a <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
077.sgm:<P>One of the horse's legs having got in motion, I applied, most vigorously, spurs and cudgel, and soon the other three started, and I was under way at a rapid pace.  I soon gained the summit of the hill, when my horse raised his head, pricked up his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:ears, and with his nostrils distended looked a very Bucephalus.  Never did I make a more auspicious entre&acute;e into a city than on this occasion; the natives stood all agog, and even the Bloomerclad sen&tilde;oras, that had looked upon me sneeringly but a few moments before, now courtesied with veneration.  <HI REND="italics">Apropos</HI>
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077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Twenty-sixth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>MASSAYA--THE CARNIVAL--FEMALE LABORS--GOURDS--MAIDENS CONSIGNED TO A VOLCANO--A DONKEY "NON EST"--OX <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
077.sgm:<P>AFTER breakfast we strolled about to see the town; the location is commanding, being on the bank of a lake of the same name.  The town is large, well laid out, with an open plaza in the centre, which serves as a market-place.  At this time everything wore a business-like appearance.  Extensive preparations were being made for the carnival, which was to come off in a few days.  Here are many fine buildings, including churches, monasteries, and convents, all elaborately ornamented, and decorated with paintings.</P>
077.sgm:<P>This is considered one of the most pleasant towns, if not the most pleasant, in the country.  Yet, strange as it may seem, it is wholly dependent, for water, upon the lake, the bank of which is a perpendicular ledge of rocks, one hundred feet in height.  Up this precipice females are toiling, day after day, for life, in the service of inhuman masters.  The water is conveyed in gourds of immense size, which are held to the back by a strap and netting of grass, the former passing over the forehead.  These gourds grow on trees, and are natives of the tropics; they grow sufficiently large to contain one and a half or two gallons, perhaps more.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The surrounding country is a mass of lava, the mountains frequently towering up, terminating in volcanic peaks, the most prominent being that of Massaya.  This was once the terror of the country, but has now ceased to burn.  It is said that the natives formerly, in order to appease its rage, were in the habit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:of consigning their most beautiful maidens to its terrific bosom.  After stopping two hours we were again under way, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The country is rolling, and timbered with cedars, our route laying along a stream emptying into Lake Nicaragua.  After traveling six miles we encamped for the night.  In the morning our companion's donkey was <HI REND="italics">non est</HI>
077.sgm:; there were three drivers now in the party; four <HI REND="italics">reals</HI>
077.sgm: was the first charge for finding said donkey; the proposition being readily accepted by the owner, they thought it was worth <HI REND="italics">five</HI>
077.sgm:; this being accepted, six were demanded, or two <HI REND="italics">reals</HI>
077.sgm: each for the drivers.  Now, we still had fresh in our minds a certain transaction, the subject of which was an ox instead of a donkey.  After a word of consultation we came to the conclusion, that notwithstanding the disparity in the length of ears, the same remedy might prove effectual in both cases.  We immediately acted upon this hypothesis, and prepared a liberal dose of <HI REND="italics">saplings</HI>
077.sgm:, and in order that the medicine might reach the system <HI REND="italics">unadulterated</HI>
077.sgm:, we ordered them to take off their shirts.  The medicine proved too strong for their nerves, even before tasting it, and forgetting the <HI REND="italics">reals</HI>
077.sgm:, they assured us that they would have " <HI REND="italics">mula aqui una momento</HI>
077.sgm:," and in five minutes his donkeyship was under the saddle.  It was the donkey belonging to our <HI REND="italics">long</HI>
077.sgm:<P>At 9 A.M., we were on the banks of Lake Nicaragua, at Grenada.  This is a beautifully located town, with paved streets, and magnificent churches.  A description of one town in Central America describes them all.  They are all built upon the same plan, with spacious plazas in the centre;--extensive churches and convents, all after a similar order of architecture, some of them ornamented with a degree of splendor seldom surpassed, if equalled, on this continent.  The streets, when paved, are paved with cobble-stone, with the gutter in the center.  This mode has its advantages when carriages are seldom used.</P>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>We here found an American, Mr. Priest, of Philadelphia, who had just entered a convent; not, however, with a view to taking the veil, but to take down the superfluous crosses and ornaments, preparatory to converting the building into a hotel.  The building had attained the advanced age of two hundred and forty years; it seemed almost sacrilege to divest it of its ornaments.  The natives were accustomed to seeing priests enter convents, but they looked upon the demonstrations of our Philadelphia Priest with a suspicious eye.</P>
077.sgm:<P>In Spanish America, a horse that is led through the street is always considered "up" for sale.  We hired a <HI REND="italics">muchacho</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Our first efforts were directed to hiring conveyance to San Carlos and San Juan; we applied to Mr. Derbyshire, and English merchant from Jamaica, and succeeded in hiring a <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
077.sgm: of sufficient capacity to carry our party of fifteen, including baggage.  There were two other <HI REND="italics">bungoes</HI>
077.sgm:, hired by Americans that were to be our company down; and after a protracted and vexatious detention of two days, the time of starting arrived.  We now, however, had a new and unexpected difficulty to encounter, the boatmen refused to go on board; but after a long parley, a complaint was lodged with the Alcalde, who ordered out a file of soldiers, they forming in line along the river bank to protect the agents, while they were <HI REND="italics">whipping</HI>
077.sgm: the boatmen on board.  At length the oars were plied, and we shot out into the lake, and laid our course for a group of islands three miles distant, in order to lay in a stock of plantains for the voyage.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>Remaining during the night we took an early start, laying our course in the direction of Mr. Derbyshire's plantation, which is on the opposite side of the lake, thirty miles distant.  Our mission here, or that of our boatmen, was to take in cattle for the San Juan market.  We arrived early in the morning of the second day from the islands.  Our ambitious boatmen would work only in the evening and morning; in the middle of the day they would lay and broil in the sun.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We arrived at an early hour, and commenced preparing breakfast.  We had chickens, and rice, and chocolate on board; we sent to the plantation for eggs, milk, and bananas, and soon sat down to a breakfast that would have pleased the most fastidous palate.  The manner in which it was served I am not prepared to say was quite so satisfactory.  (See Plate.)  One was sitting on a rock, drinking his coffee from a tin basin; another standing up, doing likewise; a third holding a chicken by a leg and wing, trying to dissect it without the use of edged tools.  One of our party has finished his breakfast, and is sitting on a rock, in a very aldermanic attitude, smoking a pipe, probably the only one ever introduced into Central America.</P>
077.sgm:<P>While we were taking breakfast, the natives were taking in a cargo of bullocks; the manner was truly Spanish.  The bungoes were anchored a short distance from shore, the cattle were driven as near as convenient, when one of them would be <HI REND="italics">lassoed</HI>
077.sgm:, the other end of the lasso being fastened to the horse's neck; the horse is mounted and spurred into the lake, drawing the victim after him, which, in case of resistance, is unmercifully beaten.  The horse tows him around on the seaward side of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
077.sgm:, when the lasso is slipped and the bullock beaten and <HI REND="italics">booted</HI>
077.sgm: until he jumps on board.  Two passengers of this class will be seen cozily chewing their cuds in the midships of the two <HI REND="italics">bungoes</HI>
077.sgm: in the foreground, and one is just <HI REND="italics">stepping on board</HI>
077.sgm: that on the right.  In the background is seen a party of natives, cooking and eating breakfast.  They put rice and plantains together into an iron pot, and stew them into a chowder which is served out in small gourds.  After spending an hour on shore, there was a simultaneous move to go on board; the inexpressibles of some were rolled up, others pulled off.  Before starting we saw one native moving towards the <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
077.sgm:<P>In the course of the morning we passed in sight of a town, which was situated on the side of the mountain, at a great elevation, presenting a most picturesque appearance.  We also saw miners at work in the gold mines, on the side of the mountain.  As we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>On our arrival at San Carlos we were required to submit to custom-house regulations, the officer insisting upon searching our trunks.  To this we demurred, having passed through the entire country without submitting to such an ordeal.  The officer seeming anxious to compromise the matter, demanded $5 in stead from each; the Americans who had preceded us submitted to this extortion, but we were determined to resist.  The officer became more moderate, coming down--down--down--to a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Twenty-seventh.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>PASSAGE DOWN THE SAN JUAN RIVER--CASTILIAN RAPIDS--THE "DIRECTOR"--ARRIVAL AT SAN JUAN--BOARDED BY A POSSE OF NEGROES--BRITISH PROTECTORATE--PHILANTHROPY OF GREAT BRITAIN--HER MAGNANIMOUS AND DISINTERESTED CONDUCT TOWARDS THE NATIONS OF THE EARTH--NICARAGUA GRACIOUSLY REMEMBERED--A HUNT FOR A SOVEREIGN--A FULL-GROWN KING DISCOVERED--HIS DIPLOMACY--INVINCIBILITY--AMUSEMENTS AND CORONATION--HIS FIRST PAIR OF PANTALOONS--HAIL "KING OF THE MUSQUITO COAST"!!!--ALL HAIL JAMACA I.!!!--"HEAR! HEAR!!!"</P>
077.sgm:<P>WE were soon on board, and passing around a point, were floating down the San Juan river at the rate of five knots.  After a two hour's run our boatmen unshipped their oars, and commenced gambling; we were borne along by the current, at the rate of two miles an hour, until toward evening, when the oars were again manned.  At nine in the evening, the roar of the water admonished us that we were approaching the Castilian rapids, and we came to anchor.  The natives have a dread of this rapid, and in passing it feel that their lives are in imminent peril; in this case, however, a party of boatmen forgetting themselves in sleep, passed over, and in the morning found themselves entangled in the bushes, along the margin of the river.  We descended the rapid, finding the steamboat "Director," in the act of ascending; she was making her first passage up, preparatory to taking her place on the lake for the transportation of passengers, in connection with Vanderbilt's Line of steamships.  The passage up the rapid was very difficult, owing to the strong current, being about six knots; she however succeeded, and is now plying on the lake.  We passed down, and at two the next morning came to anchor in the harbor of San Juan.</P>
077.sgm:<P>At an early hour in the morning we were boarded by a posse of negroes, whose mission it was to search our baggage for firearms; they succeeded in finding two rusty guns belonging to our padrone, which they carried off in triumph.  It is well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>The town consists of about fifty thatched houses, tenanted by French, English, German, Spanish, and Negroes.  Things here are, in a measure, <HI REND="italics">reverso</HI>
077.sgm:; a negro is agent for Great Britain--his boots are blacked by a white man.  We found a British man-of-war in port, which is kept here to enforce their <HI REND="italics">wholesome regulations</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The philanthropy of Great Britain has become proverbial.  There is scarcely a port on the European continent that has not heard the music of her cannon, and been relieved of its surplus treasures.  Three-fourths of a century ago, she <HI REND="italics">succeeded</HI>
077.sgm: in establishing, on the American continent, the government of the United States, and a few years thereafter voluntarily offered the use of a fleet and army at New Orleans, a part of which was <HI REND="italics">used</HI>
077.sgm:, the balance returned.  Mexico has also been a recipient of her kind attentions.  She has taken possession of the richest mines in Mexico, and worked them <HI REND="italics">gratuitously</HI>
077.sgm:, sending off millions under the protection of the "red cross of St. George."  Her sappers and miners have found their way to Peru and [Chili?], as well as other divisions on the Pacific coast of South America, the mines of all of which have been taken possession of, and worked on the same <HI REND="italics">accommodating</HI>
077.sgm: terms as those of Mexico.  She sent a fleet <HI REND="italics">free of charge</HI>
077.sgm: to the Argentine Republic, took possession of her ports, and <HI REND="italics">forced</HI>
077.sgm: the navigation of her rivers.  Texas, after emerging from her glorious struggle for liberty, was offered the kind wing of protection; Great Britain even going so far as to offer her assistance in maintaining a separate republic, thinking annexation to the United States inexpedient.  She visited China in the capacity of doctor, and most magnanimously forced her prescription down their unwilling throats.  Her philanthropic eye next took a survey of Central America.  Here she found governments of that <HI REND="italics">odious</HI>
077.sgm:<P>No one, up to this time, had interfered with the jurisdiction <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:of Nicaragua, nor was her claim to this coast ever disputed.  Great Britain, in her superior wisdom, however, decided that as Nicaragua had no particular use for seaports, they would be better in other hands, even if <HI REND="italics">she herself</HI>
077.sgm: should be <HI REND="italics">compelled</HI>
077.sgm: to assume the protectorate.  The first step necessary to accomplish this magnanimous object was to find a suitable <HI REND="italics">sovereign</HI>
077.sgm:<P>What could have been more opportune?  This was precisely the individual sought; here was a great man, a chief, in actual possession of the country, i. e., he had actually hunted 'possums there for a period of six months!  The matter was immediately decided upon, and arrangements made to pay the monarch a visit on the following day, preparatory to his coronation.  Artizans were employed in the manufacture of presents suitable for one who seemed pointed out by the finger of Providence to wear the "purple and ermine."  Tin pans were immediately transformed into crowns and collars, sardine boxes into breastplates and stars, pill-boxes into ear and finger-rings, and "extinguishers" into ornaments for the nose.  These, after a revision by chamois and soap-stone, were safely boxed, that they might not be tarnished by the touch of vulgar hands.  A demijohn was filled with rum--as was supposed, to prevent his <HI REND="italics">Majesty</HI>
077.sgm: from fainting under the operation of putting on <HI REND="italics">his first pair</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Early on the following morning, the ship having been ordered to drop along down the coast, the party were in motion under the pilotage of the Indian above mentioned.  What momentous results sometimes attend the acts of individuals in the humble walks of life!  This poor Indian, having been driven to the shore by hunger, had, while making a meal of raw fish, imparted a word, which single word was the means of bringing forth to the world a full-grown king.  What were the feelings of this native, as he cut his way through the chaparrals?  Had he aspirations?  No doubt he had!  In his wild delirium of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>Nor was there a want of zeal on the part of Her Britannic Majesty's agent.  He too had aspirations.  He was on a mission which, if successful, must result in incalculable benefit to the world in general, and to Her Britannic Majesty's government <HI REND="italics">in particular</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Never were mortals more eager for immortality, nor was it ever more clearly within their reach; for even now, at this point in the drama, the very dogs of his <HI REND="italics">Majesty</HI>
077.sgm: seemed to proclaim it--the <HI REND="italics">royal</HI>
077.sgm: encampment was in sight.  The party deployed into a single file, and prepared to approach <HI REND="italics">the presence</HI>
077.sgm:.  They took the <HI REND="italics">monarch</HI>
077.sgm: by surprise; he was stretched out at full length, on a "highly-scented" raw hide, under the shade of a palm-tree, as naked as he came into the world.  He was amusing himself by trying to "get up" a fight between a parrot and a young monkey; his squaw was broiling a couple of lizards or <HI REND="italics">guanas</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The interview was at first embarrassing, but after consulting the demijohn, they seemed imbued with a more fraternizing <HI REND="italics">spirit</HI>
077.sgm:, and commenced conversation on the subject of empire, and the prerogative of kings.  Her Britannic Majesty's agent felt himself a man of importance, and at first seemed somewhat patronizing; but the <HI REND="italics">monarch</HI>
077.sgm: had consulted the demijohn too often to be outdone, and, as a proof of his invincibility, he exhibited a huge turtle, which had fallen a victim to his <HI REND="italics">machet</HI>
077.sgm:; he had climbed a tree that none of his men could climb, and caught sixteen "'possums," all hanging by the same tail from the same limb; he had taken his biggest dog by the tail, and swung him around his head three times, and declared he would do it again for their amusement.  "Carlo" was immediately seized by the tail, but feeling a little sensitive, he curled up, bit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:his master, and escaped.  This led to a spirited footrace, and as "Carlo" dodged, the <HI REND="italics">monarch</HI>
077.sgm: slipped, his head coming in contact with the root of a tree.  He seemed <HI REND="italics">discouraged</HI>
077.sgm:, and made no effort to regain his feet.  The Englishman felt that he had committed a <HI REND="italics">faux pas</HI>
077.sgm:<P>On the following morning, the boat was again sent ashore, with an invitation for the <HI REND="italics">monarch</HI>
077.sgm: to visit Her Majesty's ship.  Feeling as individuals will feel <HI REND="italics">next day</HI>
077.sgm:, he <HI REND="italics">graciously</HI>
077.sgm: accepted the invitation.  A detail of what transpired on board has never been made public, <HI REND="italics">reporters</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The distance from San Juan to Realejo is about three hundred miles.  Passengers going the Nicaragua route now take a steamboat at San Juan, which runs up to the Castilian Rapids; then, after a portage of half a mile, another steamboat takes them up the river to San Carlos; thence across Lake Nicaragua to Virgin Bay.  Then by pack-mules they are taken to San Juan del Sud, on the Pacific.  The distances on the river and lake are about equal, being about seventy-five miles each, and from twelve to fifteen miles by land.  There is every facility for crossing here, there being several steamboats plying on the river and lake.  Steamships enter the mouth of the San Juan River, and the river boats come along side, consequently passengers incur no expense in the transfer, and are not obliged to land, as the small steamboats take them immediately up the river.  This route has the advantage, in distance, over the Panama route, of about one thousand miles; still, the passage from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>Now, dear reader, having finished my business here, I am ready to return.  I will not trouble you to make the journey back to Realejo in a cart, but as I promised to accompany you, we will take one <HI REND="italics">psychological</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Twenty-eighth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>SAIL FOR HOME--PASS THE "GOLDEN GATE,"--SAD CONDITION OF THE PASSENGERS--GRAVES AT THE BASE OF THE SNOWY MOUNTAINS--LAND RECEDES--LUXURIES ON BOARD--A DEATH AND BURIAL--ANOTHER DEATH--WHALES AND PORPOISES <HI REND="italics">VERSUS</HI>
077.sgm:<P>I HAD designed to leave San Francisco for home in the steamer of the 1st December, and had purchased my ticket with that view; but the steamer, being a foreign bottom, was unable to clear for another port in California, and having but small capacity for coal, I feared detention, and was induced to sell my ticket, and take passage in the ship Edward Everett, which was to sail on the 28th November, and which, I felt confident, would reach Panama in advance of the steamer.  We were notified to be on board at 9 A.M; and when Mr. Fairchild and myself reached the shore with our baggage, we saw the ship two miles out just preparing to swing from her moorings.  We engaged two hardy "tars," and were soon pulling off for her; we threaded our way through the shipping, and were doing our utmost as we saw the anchor of the Everett already up, her foresail aback, and she "turning on her heel," preparatory to standing out to sea.  We boarded her as she was under way.  We passed the clipper-ship Architect, which was just weighing anchor for Valparaiso; the captains saluted each other through their trumpets, and we passed on through the Golden Gate, with a fair breeze, assisted by the unerring ebb tide.  The passengers, eighty in number, were all on deck to take a last look at the receding landscape.</P>
077.sgm:<P>It had been but a few short days since they first beheld this scene--since they first entered through this "Gate," into the land of promise.  They now look upon the same narrow passage, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:the same bold rocky coast, they had looked for with so much anxiety, and greeted with so much enthusiasm.  But how different the feelings now! what a change!  They were then accompanied by a brother or a friend, with high hopes and vigorous constitutions, looking forward with brilliant anticipations.  But now the brother and friend are sleeping quietly at the base of yonder snow-capped mountain, and they are bearing the sad intelligence to the bereaved parents, brothers, and sisters.  Instead of the vigorous constitutions, they are obliged to cling to the riging for support, while they gaze for the last time upon the scene.  With many it is the last time they are to view such a scene; their eyes are about to close upon the earth forever, to sleep beneath the bosom of the ocean.  Many have not only sacrificed health, but are destitute of means, and are now reeling about the ship, endeavoring to earn their passage by their labor.  Our ship seemed a hospital; three-fourths of all the passengers were invalids, some of them helpless.  We drifted away before the wind, the mountains gradually disappearing from the horizon; one had lingered long, but as we descended from the crest of a mountain wave, we bid <HI REND="italics">it</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The 30th was ushered in with a fine breeze, and we were standing on our course.  At noon we found the table supplied with hard bread (sea-biscuit) and salt beef, dainties that our stomachs did not relish; the same table was kept standing for supper.  Captain Smith was interrogated in reference to his supply of provisions, for which we had paid him extra; he replied that he was abundantly supplied with the above, which, if we chose, we could have served up every day during the voyage; when too late, we learned that the delicacies for the sick, with which he had by public notice proclaimed his ship <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:abundantly supplied, were " <HI REND="italics">non est</HI>
077.sgm:<P>On the 6th December, in lat, 22&deg; 50[min];, North, itwas announced that G. W. Ray, of Maine, was dead.  He died at 10 A.M; the gang-plank was placed, one end extending over the side of the ship, supported by the rail, the other supported by a cask, over this was thrown a piece of canvas, upon which was placed the corpse.  A rope was tied around the body; thence, passing down was tied around the ancles, and to the end was attached a canvas bag, filled with sand.  The body was then sewed up in the canvas, over which was thrown the ensign of California.  The passengers now surround the corpse, with heads uncovered.  A prayer is read by the captain, the ensign is removed, and at the word one end of the plank is raised, and the body passes gently into its grave.  We are under a full press of canvas with an eight knot breeze; the last bubble rises to the surface, and the wind passes mournfully through the shrouds, as if sighing his last requiem.</P>
077.sgm:<P>At 8 P.M., of the same day, another death was announced.  Deceased, Mr. Cook, was a young man from Sag Harbor, where he left a wife and child.  One hour after the announcement of his death, he was consigned to the grave, that had so recently opened to receive his unfortunate companion.  He was buried in Lat. 20&deg; 50[min];, N.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We were surrounded during the day (7th) by whales and porpoises, and during the evening, as they would pass through the "luminous animalculae," they would present the appearance of enormous serpents of fire.  On the 8th we were visited by a terrific thunder storm, accompanied by heavy winds.  We run under close-reefed topsails; and when the storm clears up we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>On the morning of the  14th another death was announced; the deceased, Dr. Reed, of Massachusetts, had been, for some days, conscious of his approaching end, and manifested a strong desire to have his remains conveyed to his friends.  This was his last and almost only request; the fear that this might not be complied with seemed to linger with him to the last, and died only with his last pulsation.  He received some encouragement from the captain, but one short hour after his death, he followed his unfortunate companion to the grave.  He was buried in Lat 16&deg; 3[min]; N.</P>
077.sgm:<P>A report is in circulation that there are dead bodies on board.  On inquiry, we learn that there are three--a man, a woman and child; they were preserved in casks of spirits, and being conveyed to the States.  This created the greatest consternation in the minds of the sailors, and they unanimously resolved to leave the ship at the first port.  They have a superstitious idea that vessels cannot be safely navigated with dead bodies on board.  Many of the passengers were confined to their berths, some of them destined never again to leave them, until removed by death.  The scurvy had appeared in its worst form, and there was nothing on board to relieve its victims.  The food served out was most execrable; those in robust health were pining away, and for the invalids, there was no hope.  Among the latter there were five who were deranged; they were all confined to their berths, and seemed waiting to be relieved by death.  There is a physician on board, (whose father and captain Smith are sole owners of the ship), his services, however, are not at the disposition of all.  The captain has flour, but pretends it does not belong to the ship, and refuses to serve it out to the passengers.  He, however, offered to sell it, and two or three of us joined and bought a quantity of him, together with a quantity of sugar; all to be paid for in Panama, at Panama prices, and for all of which we <HI REND="italics">never had the most distant idea</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>On the 16th, we were surrounded by porpoises; our first matet being an old harpooner, descended into the martingale of the ship, his harpoon being attached to a rope which passed through a tackle-block above, and was manned by about thirty passengers.  At the first plunge of the ship, he "let go" the harpoon, taking effect in the back of a porpoise; "haul away," and the huge monster was swinging in the air.  This was a moment of intense excitement; the harpoon had passed almost through the body, but in hauling him from the water, it had drawn out, holding only to a half-inch of the skin.  One struggle and he would have been released; but the auspicious moment passed, and at the word "ease away," he was safely <HI REND="italics">shipped</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Twenty-ninth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>CLOUD AND CLIPPERTON ISLANDS--WHALES, SHARKS, PORPOISES, AND DOLPHINS--A SHARK CAPTURED--SHARK STEAK--"CAUDLE LECTURE"--DEATH OF SAMUEL B. LEWIS--A CALM--FOOT RACES BY THE SHIP'S FURNITURE--PASSENGER PECULIARITIES--SHORT OF PROVISIONS--"BOUT SHIP"--FIRST OF JANUARY--[??S] LUXURIES AT SEA--A TAME SEA-FOWL--A PASSENGER DYING--A SHARK--A DELIGHTFUL EVENING SCENE--A DEATH--BURIAL AT SEA BY CANDLE LIGHT--A TURTLE NAVIGATING THE OCEAN--HIS SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT--A WRITTEN PROTEST AGAINST THE CAPTAIN--COCUS ISLAND--CAPTURING "BOOBIES."</P>
077.sgm:<P>On the 17th, we passed under the lea of Cloud island--lat. 19&deg;, long. 103&deg;.  21st; passed Clipperton island, lat. 11 &deg;, long. 103&deg;. The air is filled with sea-fowl; the island is a rocky pile, having the appearance of a dilapidated castle; and is surrounded by a low sandy beach.  We are surrounded by whales, sharks, porpoises and dolphins; our first mate strikes a porpoise at midnight, and it is hauled on deck by the crew.</P>
077.sgm:<P>On the 22d, the mate struck a shark; it was hauled on deck, and we had shark-steak for breakfast.  All out with the captain, and the lectures he receives are only equalled by those of the amiable "Mrs. Caudle."  He finds himself wofully in the minority, and confines himself to his state-room.  We not only charge the adverse winds to his account, but the destitution of the ship; of his guilt of the latter charge, the jury were unanimous.</P>
077.sgm:<P>24th.  The death of Samuel B. Lewis is announced.  He was buried at 9 A.M., lat. 6&deg;--12&acute; north.  He was from Elmira, N. Y., where he leaves a widowed mother to mourn his untimely death.  On my return, I learned that subsequent to his starting for California, his father was accidently killed; the mother wrote for her son; he was her only solace; upon him she leaned for consolation; but on a dreary night, as the wind howled mournfully without, she dreamed her son returned, and as she was about to clasp him to her bosom, he shrunk from her sight and disappeared forever.</P>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>We have a calm for several days with intense heat; a general restlessness is felt, passengers are out of patience; our ship has not sufficient headway to cause her to mind the tiller; she rolls about like a log, now plunging, throwing her sails all aback, now rising on a sea, the rigging slackens, the spars and yards creak, the sails again fill, and everything is again drawn to its utmost tension; she again plunges, reers, and rises lengthwise of a sea; she careens and is thrown almost upon her "beam-ends."  Trunks change sides, tables stand on their heads, barrels get up foot-races, much to the annoyance of the passengers, who, with shins in hand, enter most vehement protests, throwing in an occasional oath by way of emphasis.  Jack "yarns" on the forecastle, Tom has out a shark-hook; the cook has been mastheaded by the captain; T---n comes down from the shrouds with a sailors oath on his lips, looks at his boots and goes up again; Wright exclaims, "certingly."  Palmly looks from under his quaker hat, and swears at the captain; the Dutchman, with red whiskers, opens his mouth, which very much resembles a cavity in a brick-kiln; he looks an oath in Dutch, but don't speak.  To calm our ruffled passions we were informed that we were short of provisions, and were to be put upon allowance.</P>
077.sgm:<P>On the 28th, the captain gave the order, "bout ship," and we stood in for the main land, 550 miles distant, lat. 6&deg;,long. 96&deg;.  On the 29th, a fine breeze springs up, we again change our course and stand east, in the direction of Panama.</P>
077.sgm:<P>January 1st, 1850, lat. 6&deg;, long. 9&deg;; heat most oppresive; we have hard fare for breakfast, same for dinner and supper.  Oh, ye knights of "Gotham!" did we not envy you?  You, who are now cloyed with luxuries and greeted by the smiles of friends, but little dream that he who, twelve months ago, was your companion, has this moment dined upon sea-bread that has become the home of vermin, and beef on about the fourth anniversary of its salting, boiled in ocean-water.</P>
077.sgm:<P>A small bird flies on board in an exhausted condition; it is quite tame and eats food from our hands.  Our inquiries in reference to its home and destination, were in vain; it remained on board during the day, and seemed to appreciate our kindness.</P>
077.sgm:<P>It is rumored that one of our passengers is dying; a shark is at this moment passing under the bow of the ship, as if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>At 7 P.M. it was announced that Wm. F. Capron, of Palmyra, N.Y., was dead; he was sewed up in a canvas shroud, and thirty minutes after his death, with lights on deck, in latitude 6&deg; 34' N., he was consigned to the ocean.</P>
077.sgm:<P>5th.  Delightful morning, with fine breeze.  We saw a large turtle floating on the surface of the water, asleep; we lowered a boat, and pulled off for him, but he awoke, and suspecting our movements, applied his propellers with great dexterity, and diving toward the bottom he was soon out of sight.  He probably hailed from Cocus Island, distant one hundred and twenty miles; his object in cruising in these waters we were unable to learn.  It being Monday, it was shrewdly suspected that he had been out, on the previous night,rch of bright eyes.  His being asleep in the middle of the day, and his apparent <HI REND="italics">embarrassment</HI>
077.sgm:<P>6th.  Calm, heat insupportable, and we are short of provisions.  I have a warm conversation with the captain, and draw up a protest, have it signed by the passengers, designing to lay it before the consul at Panama.</P>
077.sgm:<P>PROTEST.</P>
077.sgm:<P>WE, the undersigned, passengers on board the ship Edward Everett, Capt. HENRY SMITH, do hereby most solemnly aver that we were induced to take passage on said ship by representations made by said Capt. Smith and his agents, which representations were, that he had on board an extra supply of ship-stores, and that extra provisions had been made for the comfort of passengers.  For this <HI REND="italics">extra provision</HI>
077.sgm:<P>The above-named Capt. Smith, through public advertisements and otherwise, called the attention of invalids <HI REND="italics">particularly</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Immediately upon getting under weigh we learned, to our sorrow, that we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>Some of the passengers had made arrangements to work their passage, but upon first putting to sea were unable to do duty.  The Captain called upon them in person, ordering them from their berths and on duty, threatening, in case of non-compliance, to put them ashore on the first island.  Mr. Saml. B. Lewis, of Elmira, N. Y., who was working his passage as under-steward, was compelled to do duty when unable, and finally compelled to take to his berth, from which he never arose.  Just previous to his death he manifested a wish to see the Captain, and said, "If I die my blood will be upon the Captain's head."</P>
077.sgm:<P>The invalids, being compelled to live on the coarse fare of the steerage, suffered for want of nourishing food, of which the ship was entirely destitute, there not being a particle of dried fruit, preserved meats, wines, or any one of the articles thought indispensably necessary on ship-board.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The physician, (whose father and Captain Smith were the owners of the ship,) paid no other attention to the sick than dealing out medicines, which he did <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
077.sgm:<P>There have been five deaths on board, during the voyage.  Wm. F. Capron, of Palmyra, N. Y., we do most solemnly believe died for want of proper nourishment; and in the case of Wm. B. Lewis, we believe he was brought to a premature death, by treatment received at the hands of the Captain, together with the want of proper nourishment after his prostration.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Aside from the above unheard-of conduct, Capt. Smith went to sea without a single life or quarter-boat, consequently entirely unprepared to save life in case of accident, showing a recklessness of human life in the highest degree reprehensible, which should not be passed over in silence.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We regret exceedingly that we are obliged to make the above charges against an American Captain, a class of men so justly celebrated for philanthropy and kindness; but the circumstances under which we are placed leave no alternative; and we hereby most respectfully request that our Consul at Panama will immediately enforce the law in this case, believing that a few public examples will put an end to the abuse.</P>
077.sgm:<P>AT SEA, <HI REND="italics">January6th</HI>
077.sgm:, 1850, <HI REND="italics">lat.</HI>
077.sgm: 6&deg; N., <HI REND="italics">lon.</HI>
077.sgm: 92&deg; <HI REND="italics">W</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>7th.Pass within forty miles of Cocus Island.</P>
077.sgm:<P>8th. Indication of land; a cloud of "boobies" surround the ship, lighting on the spars and rigging; we divert ourselves by tying clubs to fishing lines, throwing them around their necks, and hauling them in.  They appeared to enter into the sport with as much zeal as ourselves, for upon being released they would fly around, and seem to say, "do it again."</P>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Thirtieth.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>INTENSE HEAT--HUMAN NATURE AS EXHIBITED BY THE PASSENGERS--DANGER, NOT APPREHENDED--A TATTLER--A "DUTCH JUSTICE"--"LONG TOM COFFIN"--A QUAKER HAT--AN INDIVIDUAL RUNNING WILD--HIS OATHS, DEPREDATIONS, MUSICAL ACCOMPLISHMENTS, SHOWMAN PROPENSITIES, AND PUGILISTIC DEVELOPMENTS--"BLUBBER," BUCKSKIN, AND "THE LAST RUN OF SHAD"--A CAPSIZED WHALE-BOAT--THRILLING SENSATION--HARPOON USED--A SHARK--"LAND HO!"--GULF OF PANAMA--SOUTH AMERICAN COAST--"SAIL HO!"--DOLPHIN FOR DINNER--A WHALE--A TERRIFIC GALE--OUR SAILS AND SPARS CARRIED AWAY.</P>
077.sgm:<P>January 8th. CALM with intense heat.  Our ship rolls about at the mercy of the sea, the spars creaking, and the sails displaying as little ambition as if they designed to enfold the yards in an eternal sleep.  This example of tranquillity was but illy followed by the passengers; it appeared to foment their passions, bringing the evil ones to the surface.  Each was disposed to demand an apology from his neighbor for wrongs either real or imaginary, (mostly of the latter;) the neighbor declaiming, in the most vehement manner, that he is the injured party.</P>
077.sgm:<P>What a motley group! what an exposition of the dissimilarity of human nature!  Here are my friends Fairchild and Seymour, all they should be, disposed to look upon the brightest side of the picture; McG. offering $100 for the strength he once had; "he would whip that big Englishman," the Englishman, at the same time, swelling and blowing about, with the pomp and glory of "Old England" flitting through his imagination, quite ignorant of his impending danger.  Gates, on the alert for news for the captain's ear, for which he gets an occasional cup of coffee, together with the universal detestation of the passengers; the "Dutch Justice" strutting about with all the pomp of brainless vanity; the professor, learned in love, law, and physic, which comprises, in his estimation, all that can be learned in this world; "Long Tom Coffin," the very "beau ideal" of the hero himself, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:stretched out on the quarter-deck, very much resembling a pair of oyster-tongs.  He had Blackstone and Kent at his tongue's end, and swore that, on his arrival in Maine, he would prepare a "BRIEF" for the captain's especial edification; P--ly, sitting under a quaker hat, as forbidding in appearance as he is in fact, damning all indiscriminately who differ with him in opinion.  T--n, who in attempting to relate an occurrence commences at the last word, throwing the balance on the top of it, in the most unintelligible confusion.  He is about twenty-one years of age, has been well brought up, with a good education, but is now running wild.  He blacks his boots and starts for the masthead; half-way up he halts, looks at his boots, suspects that they might have received a higher polish, and with a repetition of his usual oath, comes down again.  He discovers some one's can of preserved meat; he takes it to the cook and soon <HI REND="italics">some one</HI>
077.sgm: is invited to dine with him, and if he discovers <HI REND="italics">some one's</HI>
077.sgm: bottle of wine, some one is <HI REND="italics">almost</HI>
077.sgm: sure to get <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
077.sgm: glass of it.  He had a passion for music, but generally sung in parodies, as follows:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I'm sitting on a stile, Mary,<LB>Not knowing where to jump;<LB>My foot it slipped, I caught a fall,<LB>And struck upon a stump,<LB>Ittee bump, ittee bump, ittee bump.<LB></HI>
077.sgm:<P>almost indefinitely, closing up with a constant repetition of his usual imprecations, and again starting for the mast-head; he would probably reach the first yard, when a new idea, and he would be again on deck, playing superintendent of a caravan, with "John, take that little monkey from his mother, or he will <HI REND="italics">suck</HI>
077.sgm:<P>We have a steward that knows his place, and another that does not deserve one on this earth; a cook who has not been accused of washing himself during the voyage, and one who appears never to have been guilty of the act.  A negro who knows his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:place and keeps it, a white man, his neighbor, assuming everybody's place but his own; one man with no appetite, another creating a famine in his immediate neighborhood; five crazy men, fifty invalids, a penurious doctor, two mates--Tate and Barry--noblemen of nature's own make, and a captain who was made afterwards.  In one thing <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
077.sgm:<P>11th. We discover something near the horizon resembling a capsized whale-boat.  This causes a great sensation; the first mate mans the quarter-boat and pulls off for the object.  The passengers watch most intently, the little craft as it rises upon the crest of a mountain-wave, and now disappearing, again rises to our view, still nearing the object in the distance.  As they approach still nearer, through the ship's glass, we see fowls rising from it, and now the mate, standing in the bow, elevates the harpoon, as if to strike.  A large sea-fowl still clings to the object; as they approach still nearer, it flies.  The mate throws the harpoon and soon they are returning to the ship.  They pronounced the object a pine-log.  They have a Dolphin and several small fish; a cry of shark, and a large one passes along the weather side, four are following astern, accompanied by their pilots.  We use the harpoon, but without success.</P>
077.sgm:<P>12th. 4 A.M., cry of "land ho!"  I dress and go on deck; we are in sight of Points Mala and Puerco, at the entrance to the gulf of Panama, 100 miles from the city.  A steamer is just passing the point into the gulf; a strong wind is blowing off the land, and west and in, running close on the wind.  We beat all night, and in the morning find ourselves in the same position.</P>
077.sgm:<P>13th. Wind still dead ahead; after standing in and nearing the South American coast, we put about on the other tack; the wind soon "hauls," and we stand directly for the point and soon enter the mouth of the gulf.  At 4 P.M., mate cries out from mast-head, "sail ho!"  "How does she bear?"  "Two points off leeward bow, sir."  Delightful sunset; a school of porpoises are tumbling about in ecstasies.</P>
077.sgm:<P>14th. Pleasant morning; we are just off the inner point.  A fine breeze blows off, our ship bows to the impulse, and we stand along under the lee of the land.  Cry of dolphin, captain strikes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>15th. The gale still continues; we are driven out of sight of land, but arrive in sight of the South American coast at 3 P.M., the Andes towering up, hiding themselves in the clouds.</P>
077.sgm:<P>16. Strong winds; we are about sixty miles from Panama, running close in shore.  At evening, the kind-hearted inhabitants light beacons upon the side of the mountain, to guide us during the night.  At nine we put about on the other tack, and at four in the morning were within ten minutes run of being aground.</P>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Thirty-first.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>BAY OF PANAMA--ITS BEAUTIES--TROPICAL FRUITS--THE CITY IN SIGHT--EXCITEMENT ON BOARD--APPEARANCE OF THE CITY; HER RUINS--PREPARATIONS TO DROP ANCHOR--"STAND BY"--"LET GO THE ANCHOR"--FAREWELL TO THE SICK--A PERILOUS RIDE ON THE BACK OF AN INDIVIDUAL--ON SHORE--FIRST DINNER--NOTHING LEFT--AN INDIVIDUAL FEELING COMFORTABLE--PANAMA AMERICANIZED--A MOONLIGHT SCENE VIEWED FROM A BRASS "FIFTY-SIX"--A DILAPIDATED CONVENT, AS SEEN AT NIGHT--CHURCH BELLS--BURNING THE DEAD--EXPOSURE OF THE DESECRATED REMAINS--SICKENING AND DISGUSTING SIGHT--INFANTS CAST INTO PITS--THE RESCUE OF THEIR SOULS REQUIRING A GIGANTIC EFFORT ON THE PART OF THE CHURCH--A HETACOMB--"ETERNAL LIGHT"--IGNORANCE OF THE MASS--PEERLESS CHARACTERISTICS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>18th. WE are surrounded by islands; is there another bay that will compare with this?  Certainly I never imagined anything so like a fairy scene.  We are in the midst of twenty islands, all covered with tropical fruits of spontaneous growth; the orange, lime, fig, and cocoa-nut trees, interlaced with the grape, forming shelter for the inhabitants, and presenting them with food.  We were in a condition to appreciate, most fully, the surrounding scene.  Our voyage, which had now lasted fifty-one days, was commenced under adverse circumstances; five of the passengers had already died, and several were still confined to their berths with scurvy, some of them destined to breathe their last on board.</P>
077.sgm:<P>4 P.M.  As we emerge from behind a small island, we are in full view of Panama, the towers of her cathedral looming up, and her dilapidated wall extending along the water line; all are now in a phrensy of excitement; the passengers are climbing into the rigging, gazing with astonishment upon the surrounding scene.  The wind blows fresh from the land, and we are obliged to beat up directly in its eye; we passed near Tobago in the evening, and in the morning were near our anchorage.  We run up the stars and stripes, and prepare to drop anchor; our trunks are in readiness, and we expect soon to be transferred to the shore.</P>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>The city, nestling cosily at the base of Cerro Lancon, looks enchantingly, her towers and domes being lighted up by the morning sun.  Her dilapidated monasteries are also seen, and her extended wall, the base of which is washed by the gentle surf.  That distant tower, shrouded in ivy, dripping with the morning dew, seems weeping over the tomb of a departed city.  Everything conspired to awaken emotions of the most romantic character.  Our captain mounts the quarter deck and cries out, "all hands on deck to work ship."  "Aye aye, sir."  "Clue up the mainsail" "hard a-lee," "main-topsail, haul;" "haul taut the weather main-braces;" the ship comes about on the other tack.  A boat nears us, "Stand by to throw a rope;" a man comes on board; "bout ship," "stand by the anchor," "haul down the jib;" mate heaves the lead and cries out, "four fathom o' the deep ho!" "fore and main-sail, clue up."  We are now standing towards the United States' man-of-war Southampton.  "Let go the mizen top-sail braces," "stand by," "let go the anchor," and at 9 A.M., our ship rounded to and bowed submission to her chains.  We are now at anchor five miles from shore; a fleet of <HI REND="italics">bungoes</HI>
077.sgm:<P>It being ebb-tide our boat went aground half a mile from the shore; our boatmen, however, were prepared for the emergency, it being with them an almost daily occurrence; they got out, backed up, and wished us to mount.  It was to me a novel way of riding.  I had ridden "bare-backed," but always supported by a greater number of legs.  After sundry stumbles and plunges, which kept my clean shirt in imminent peril, I was safely set down on shore, for which extra service my noble steed thought a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
077.sgm: full compensation.  I had my trunk carried to the Philadelphia Hotel.  I drank freely of wine and went out on the balcony, which extends from the second story, to enjoy a cigar and my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:own thoughts.  I soon felt as happy as a man could well feel under the influence of the same quantity of wine.  I kept my eye on the table, dinner was in an advanced state of preparation; and, dear reader, you will form some idea of the voracity of my appetite when you reflect that I have not dined in fifty-one days.  I must claim your indulgence here, for I must confess I am in doubt whether I am competent to write intelligibly; just on shore, you know; and then, you know, the best of wine will sometimes lead one astray; but dinner is ready, and who cares for public opinion when he has enough to eat and <HI REND="italics">drink</HI>
077.sgm:<P>Panama had become completely Americanized.  There was the American Hotel, the New York, the Philadelphia, the United States, the St. Charles, Washington, &amp;c., and half the business in town was done by Americans.  After supper, we strolled to the "Battery," seated ourselves on a brass fifty-six, and viewed one of the most magnificent moon-light scenes I ever beheld.  The bay was as placid as a mirror; the ships lying quietly at anchor, loomed up like phantoms; the islands being just visible in the distance.  Behind us was a ruined monastery, the moon looking in at the roof and windows, disclosing the innumerable bats that nightly congregate to gambol through these halls of desolation.  After spending an hour here, we passed through one of the dilapidated gateways and took a surf bath; we ree&die;ntered through the gateway, and passed along the wall to the convent of San Francisco, an immense structure covering an area of 300 feet square; it is now untenanted, and in ruins.  Near one corner of this, standing in the street, is a stone pedestal surmounted by a cross, where the devout are wont to kneel and kiss the image of "Nuestro Sen&tilde;ora."  Passing up the main street, " <HI REND="italics">Calle de Merced</HI>
077.sgm:," we found citizens all out enjoying the evening; and as we passed we could hear them modestly whisper, "Los Americanos tiene mucho oro;" during the night <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>This act would be less revolting if done effectually, but like everything done in this country, it is but half done.  Men are hired to do the work, but wood being scarce, and not expecting the priests to inspect, they do as little work as possible, keeping in view their reward.  I can never forget my feelings, upon visiting this scene of annual desecration; my very soul sickens with disgust at the recollection of it.  Here were coffins half-burned, exhibiting the ghastly visages of their lifeless tenants; others having turned over during the conflagration, had emptied the half-decayed bodies upon the ground; some partially consumed, others still shrouded in their grave-clothes.  Here lay the head and part of the chest of a stalwart frame, the flesh having but just commenced to decay, the countenance still bearing the impress of its Maker.  Very near, partially shrouded in a winding sheet, were the delicately moulded limbs of a female, who had for a brief period tenanted the house of death, now brought forth and committed to the flames.</P>
077.sgm:<P>It will be a consolation to those residing in the States, who have lost friends at Panama, to know that no one out of <HI REND="italics">the church</HI>
077.sgm: is allowed burial in consecrated ground; their remains, consesequently, are not disturbed.  According to the <HI REND="italics">true</HI>
077.sgm: theory of religion, infants that die before baptism go directly to purgatory, notwithstanding their parents may belong to the <HI REND="italics">true</HI>
077.sgm: church.  As a suitable receptacle for these unfortunate little innocents, deep pits are dug in the rear of the churches, into which they are unceremoniously cast; their influence upon consecrated ground would, it is thought, be contaminating.  Curiosity led me to inspect one of these pits; what I beheld I will leave to the imagination of the reader.  I am not prepared to say <HI REND="italics">positively</HI>
077.sgm:, but I believe that the true theory in reference to these infants is, that they are not irrevocably lost, but to reclaim them from purgatory requires a <HI REND="italics">gigantic</HI>
077.sgm:<P>There are many things here to attract and awaken interest in the mind, but no matter how strong the desire for information, nothing can be learned from the lower classes of the population.  The source of information which, in the States is inexhaustible, is here barren; for to say that a New Grenadian <HI REND="italics">even</HI>
077.sgm: knows his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:own wife and children, is awarding him, comparatively, a very high degree of attainment.  Pass and inspect the ruins of a monastery or other edifice, and ask the first person you meet what it is, and what the cause of its destruction? the invariable reply is, " <HI REND="italics">no sabio, Sen&tilde;or</HI>
077.sgm:."  In passing along near the head of " <HI REND="italics">Calle San Juan de Dio</HI>
077.sgm:<P>When speaking of the ignorance of the people, I wish to be understood as alluding to the mass, for, in Panama, there are ladies and gentlemen of the highest cultivation and attainments, those who are endowed in the highest degree with those peerless qualities which are so pre-eminently characteristic of the Castilian race.  The stranger's friend, and friend's protector; life itself is not a sacrifice when lost in the protection of that of a friend.  The ignorance of the mass, as in all the departments of Spanish America, arises from a want of noble incentives; the entire mind being enslaved and controlled by the church.</P>
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077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Thirty-second.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>A NUN--FANDANGO--MARRIAGE ENGAGEMENT BROKEN--START FOR GORGONA--OUR EXTREME MODESTY--SAGACITY OF THE MULE--SLEEP ON MY TRUNK--A DREAM--AN ALLIGATOR WITH A MOUSTACHE--INFERNAL REGIONS--DEMONS--AN INDIVIDUAL WITH LONG EARS, AND A MULE IN BOOTS--FALLING OUT OF BED--FUNERAL PROCESSION--GORGONA--START FOR CHAGRES--OUR BUNGO FULL--SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION, ALMOST--"POCO TIEMPO"--LIZARDS FOR DINNER--THE HOSTESS--GATUN--MUSIC OF THE OCEAN--ARRIVAL.</P>
077.sgm:<P>THERE were a number of Americans in town, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
077.sgm: to California, awaiting the arrival of the Steamer Oregon, which was, at this time, fully due; there were also here several females from the States, <HI REND="italics">unattended</HI>
077.sgm:<P>During the evening we visited the "lions," and brought up at a "fandango;" we did not, however, participate in the dance, but retired in good season, designing to set out the next morning for Gorgona.  At an early hour the Philadelphia was besieged by dusky muleteers reiterating their "cargo Gorgona?" and before the sun had shown his disc above the horizon, we were under way.  As we passed along <HI REND="italics">Calle de Merced</HI>
077.sgm:, I was very modestly recognized by an interesting Sen&tilde;orita, who, on the previous evening, had made to me a proposition of marriage; I, of course, accepted; but owing to numerous pressing engagements, I was not just then prepared to attend to it, and postponed it until the next evening.  I did not tell her that I was to leave town early the next morning, nor did she suspect when I passed, that I was on my way, but looked as much as to say, "you won't forget, will you?"  As we gained the out-skirts of the city, we were hailed by half a dozen half-clad natives, who demanded a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
077.sgm: for each horse and mule in our cavalcade.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:exhibited the strongest symptoms of non-compliance, and our worthy collectors were soon convinced that we were <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
077.sgm:<P>As we arrived at the national bridge, we met a party of Sen&tilde;oritas wending their way towards the city; they saluted us with "buenos dias, Caballieros," and said by their looks that they would accompany us to the States, if we wished them to.  Our extreme modesty prevented our making the proposition, and we parted with a mutual "adios."  We soon entered the forest, where the gigantic palms, embracing each other, protected us from the scorching rays of the sun.  Our cavalcade was made up of mules and horses, some of them mounted, others packed.  Our mutual friend, J.R. Foster, whom we had expected for days to consign to the ocean, was one of our party; being mounted on a gentle horse, in an easy saddle, and buoyed up with the fond hope of again reaching home, he astonished all by his persevering endurance.  The balance of the party were in good health, and enjoyed the trip exceedingly.</P>
077.sgm:<P>I was much struck, as I had often been, with the sagacity of the mule.  One of them was packed with Mr. Fairchild's trunk, and my own; feeling some interest in my trunk, I naturally paid the most attention to that particular mule; and if he could have understood any language excepting the dead ones, I should have informed him that I thought him a very fine fellow.  But just as I came to this very satisfactory conclusion, he was guilty of a freak that well-nigh destroyed my confidence in him.  We had gained the summit of a hill, where the path stretched away for half a mile, almost level, when mule took it into his head to run, and, to my great amazement, he did run; I presumed he was making his escape, and cried out to the muleteer to stop him, but he replied "mula caro algun per comer," an so it proved, for after running a quarter of a mile, he stopped and commenced eating.  As soon as the cavalcade came up, he again started, and kept repeating until he had satisfied his hunger, when he walked along in the most orderly manner, and good humored too, for his ears were erect, and a smile appeared to beam from his countenance.  At our first watering-place, after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:the spur into my mule, and with one terrific leap we pass through unscathed.  The demons gave chase, but borne on the wings of fear we soon reached the other side of the earth.  Here everything appears strange; my mule has but two legs, and wears boots and spurs; I have four legs, and a pair of enormous ears; I am led up to a block and mounted by his <HI REND="italics">muleship</HI>
077.sgm:<P>In the morning we had the satisfaction of learning that our mules had strayed, and were detained until 10 o'clock.  We reached Gorgona at 4 P.M.  As we were entering the town, we met a funeral procession headed by a fife and drum; the corpse borne on a bier with face uncovered, (coffins are not used,) the mother of deceased standing in the door of her dwelling, uttering the most heart-rending exclamations.  The whole was accompanied by the uncouth sound of a piece of old iron hanging in the church door, serving as a bell, and at this particular time undergoing a severe castigation.  Towards evening, another corpse was borne along with the same accompaniments.  The deceased was a small child; its head was decorated with flowers, its face uncovered, looking the very personation of sleeping innocence.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We put at the French Hotel, and learning that the Empire City was to remain but one day longer at Chagres, we resolved to embark early the next morning.  We contracted with a native to take our party of eleven for $22, and at an early hour were <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
077.sgm:.  We glided down the river very pleasantly, propelled by three oarsmen, with our worthy captain at the helm.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>It will be imagined that we had but little spare room in our craft after putting in eleven trunks, as many traveling-bags, as many pairs of blankets, and fifteen human beings.  This was the case; and some of our passengers having tasted the luxury of a California life, looked upon our voyage down the river as a hardship unendurable, and censured the fellow-passenger who had made the contract.  The latter worthy, feeling it an unjust imputation, gave the dissatisfied gentlemen above mentioned the privilege of taking passage in any craft that might come along.  This led to personalities, and the feelings of our party were immediately in a state of ferment; brandy did not serve to allay the excitement, but seemed to add fuel, and we were on the eve of spontaneous combustion.</P>
077.sgm:<P>We arrived at a rancho, where it was proposed to dine.  Here commenced a dissertation on "poco tiempo," (little time).  These two words constitute almost the entire vocabulary of a native. Ask him how far it is to a rancho, "poco tiempo," how far it is to water, "poco tiempo."  If they are employed by you, and you allow them to stop under any pretext, they never start, but are always on the point of so doing; it is "poco tiempo."</P>
077.sgm:<P>We had contracted to be taken through by daylight, and we had no time to spare; but after dinner the crew and " <HI REND="italics">el capitan</HI>
077.sgm: " must have their " <HI REND="italics">siesta</HI>
077.sgm:."  We would urge them to start, but they were fatigued, they would start "poco tiempo."  They would " <HI REND="italics">caro agua</HI>
077.sgm:," or " <HI REND="italics">caro cognac</HI>
077.sgm:," and after a detention of two hours we got into the <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
077.sgm:<P>I omitted our bill of fare at the above rancho.  Our worthy hostess was on the shady side of forty, and surrounded by half a dozen " <HI REND="italics">muchachos</HI>
077.sgm:," all as naked at they came into the world.  Our hostess had paid a little more attention to her toilet, and seemed dressed with an express view to comfort, her entire wardrobe consisting of a pair slippers and a Panama hat.  Our first dish was a stew of lizards and carna; this was served out in gourd-shells, which were held to our mouths, and the pieces of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>We arrived at Gatun at 9 P.M.; some were in favor of stopping, others of continuing on, the former had the majority, and we made fast to the shore, and had another dissertation on "poco tiempo," and after an hour's detention were again under way.</P>
077.sgm:<P>At 2 A.M., we heard the sound of drums, and our boatmen cry out "fandango;" we could soon distinguish the ocean by the halo that rose from its surface, and could plainly hear the surf as it broke upon the beach.  We could see the lights on the steamer that was at anchor ourside, and an occasional light dodging about on shore.</P>
077.sgm:<P>At 3 A.M., we made fast to the American bank of the river, and had our baggage carried to the American Hotel.  All were asleep, but we took possession of the dining-room and spread our blankets on the floor.  The next morning we were all at breakfast precisely at the time <HI REND="italics">and a little before</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Thirty-third.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>CHAGRES, ITS GROWTH--GETTING ON BOARD THE EMPIRE CITY--MAGNIFICENT STEAMER--GOLD DUST ON BOARD--STEAMERS ALABAMA, FALCON, CHEROKEE, AND SEVERN--MY FRIEND CLARK ARRIVES ON BOARD--PREPARATIONS FOR STARTING--OUR STEAMER MAKES HER FIRST LEAP--"ADIOS"--CARIBBEAN SEA--HEAVY SEA ON--JAMAICA--PORT ROYAL--KINGSTON--"STEADY"--BEAUTIFUL SCENE--ORANGE GROVES--PEOPLE FLOCKING TO THE SHORE--DROP ANCHOR--THE TOWN--GENERAL SANTA ANNA'S RESIDENCE--"COALING UP"--A PARROT PEDLER IN A DILEMMA.</P>
077.sgm:<P>CHAGRES had undergone a great change; the American side which had contained but one hut on my first arrival, now presented the appearance of a thriving village of substantial framed houses, and appeared a place of considerable business.  (See Plate).  The facilities for transportation up the river and across to Panama, were ample.  Several express agencies had been established, and arrangements made on a gigantic scale for the transportation of goods up the river; several barges of the largest class, furnished with India-rubber covering to protect goods from the weather, and lighters of the greatest strength and capacity for the transmission of treasures to and from the steamers.  In connection with these, were mules stationed at Panama and Gorgona, to serve in the land transportation.</P>
077.sgm:<P>After breakfast I went off to the steamer Empire City, "prospecting."  It was blowing a severe norther, and it was with much difficulty we reached the steamer, and more that we got on board of her.  Iron steps were let down on the side of the steamer, and as she would roll to us, the steps would be immersed, and as she would commence to roll back, one of the passengers would stand ready and jump on.  After an elevation of twenty or thirty feet, the steps would return for another passenger.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The accommodations on board were unparalleled.  I immediately engaged passage and sent off for my trunk, which came on board in the afternoon, in charge of Mr. Jas. Rolfe Foster, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>25th. The <HI REND="italics">dust</HI>
077.sgm: by the Oregon has just arrived from Panama, and as soon as it is on board we shall up anchor.  There are $1,600,000, besides what is in the hands of passengers.  <HI REND="italics">Bungoes</HI>
077.sgm:<P>26th. The British Steamer, Severn, has just come to anchor, also the Cherokee from New York.  At 3 P.M., the Alabama moved off in the direction of New Orleans, crowded with passengers.  The smoke is beginning to loom up from our chimney, our quarter boats are hauled up; soon the windlass draws our anchor from its bed, and our steamer raises her head, and makes her first leap for home.  We passed the Cherokee and received three hearty cheers, then the Falcon, then the Severn, and were soon on our course, in the direction of Kingston, Jamaica.  Chagres is situated in lat. 9&deg;, 21[min];, long. 8&deg;, 4[min];.  We were now fairly launched, homeward bound; the waves of the Caribbean sea fleeing from us, as if fearful of being drawn into the vortex of our wheel.  I remained on deck until a late hour; we had a fresh breeze and heavy sea; the moon was almost full, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>27th. (Sunday).  It is one year this morning since I took leave of home and sailed for California.  During my absence, I have passed through what has cost many a life, and once almost felt the last pulsation.  But now I am in a fair way of being restored to my friends, in improved condition and health.  I have not heard one word from home in six months; my anxiety can better be imagined than expressed.  I can only hope they are alive.  By observation at 12 M., we are 420 miles from Kingston, the only port we shall make on our passage home.</P>
077.sgm:<P>28th. Still a strong wind and heavy sea.  We are running under fore sails and fore staysail.  By observation at 12 M., we had run 174 miles in twenty-four hours.</P>
077.sgm:<P>26th. Still a heavy sea on, and a stiff breeze.  We are under a full press of canvas, running eight knots.  11 A.M., in sight of land.  We soon make the highlands, and are running for Port Royal.  We have a pilot already on board, he having accompanied our steamer to Chagres.  Port Royal is situated on a low island in the mouth of a small bay, upon the head of which Kingston is situated.  We passed an armed brig, a steamer-of-war, seventy-four gun ship, revenue-cutter, all displaying the red cross of St. George.  A four-oared boat comes off towards us; our wheels are turned back, and we are boarded by an officer in full uniform.  After the usual inspection, our wheels again revolved, and we moved on up the bay, or river, in the direction of Kingston.  After running a mile, the above-mentioned officer is astonished at learning that our steamer is <HI REND="italics">under weigh</HI>
077.sgm:; he came forward and wished to be put on shore--stupid fellow.  We are standing inland, with high mountains on our right, capped with clouds.  We now pass fortifications, and bearing to the right; our pilot sings out "steady!" we are now within full view of Kingston, and heading directly for the town; "steady!" "port!" steamer falls off, bringing the town on our larboard bow--" <HI REND="italics">hard a port</HI>
077.sgm:!" on we steam--"steady!"  We are now passing a large fortification; we see houses nestling in orange groves on the side of the mountain.  The town is so densely shaded with cocoa-nut and other tropical trees, that it is barely visible.  We are drawing very near, the inhabitants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>I had a note of introduction from Mr. Moreau, whom I met at Gorgona, to his family at Kingston.  I am not prepared to say that I was in a presentable condition.  As near as memory serves me, I had on a gay colored "poncho," a slouched hat and long boots, saying nothing about the whiskers and moustache.  I found an accomplished daughter, who was a good English scholar and fine pianist, and a mother who spoke nothing but French.  My stay was short, but under other circumstances I should have wished a prolongation.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Many of the passengers visited General Santa Anna, whose villa was one mile from Kingston.  He was living in great splendor, and was found extremely affable, speaking the English language fluently.  Kingston is a town of considerable extent, the streets running at right angles, well-shaded; numerous churches and schools; the buildings generally of brick, built low to prevent disasters from hurricanes.  The inhabitants are generally instructed in the rudiments of an English education, and are quite intelligent, but all complain of poverty.  The island produces fruit in abundance, it hardly commands a price, excepting on the arrival of a steamer, when it is higher than in almost any market in the world.  The natives have taken valuable lessons from the Jews, and appear to have acquired <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
077.sgm: peculiar business habits with the greatest facility.  One of them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>During the afternoon the Cherokee came in and commenced coaling up.  This delicate duty is performed by the colored girls of the place, and the <HI REND="italics">modus operandi</HI>
077.sgm: is as novel as it is laborious.  Some fifty girls are engaged, each with a vessel resembling a half barrel, holding sixty pounds of coal; this, when filled, is placed upon the head and carried up the gang-plank to the deck.  As laborious as this duty may seem, it is performed with the greatest alacrity, accompanied by songs, dancing, and peals of laughter.  (See Plate).  The <HI REND="italics">belle</HI>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Thirty-fourth</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>OUR WHEELS REVOLVE--THE NATIVES OF THE ISLAND EXTINCT--THE WRONGS THEY HAVE SUFFERED--THE ISLAND ONCE A PARADISE--SAN DOMINGO, HER MOUNTAINS--CUBA--A SHOWER BATH GRATIS--"SAIL HO!"--CAYCUS ISLAND AND PASSAGE--TURTLE FOR DINNER--A SERMON--GALLANT CONDUCT OF OUR STEAMER--WE SHIP A SEA--A SPANISH VESSEL IN DISTRESS--OUR TILLER CHAINS GIVE WAY--A KNIFE AND FORK IN SEARCH OF MINCE PIES--GULF STREAM--WATER-SPOUTS--"LIGHT SHIP"--SANDY HOOK--ANXIETY--SIGHT OF NEW YORK--FEELINGS AND CONDITION OF THE PASSENGERS--A SAD FATE--AGROUND--A NEW PILOT--AGAIN UNDER WEIGH--NEAR THE DOCK--A DEATH--MAN OVERBOARD--MAKE FAST--AT HOME--ONE WORD TO THOSE ABOUT TO EMBARK.</P>
077.sgm:<P>JAN. 30th. WE finish taking in provisions, coal, and water, and at 1 P.M., let go our hawser, our wheels revolve, and we are again under weigh, heading out to sea.  We take a hearty dinner while yet in the bay, but there is a tremendous sea outside, and many will be obliged to pay tribute to Neptune.  This is a delightful island, but it is changed from the paradise Columbus found it.  Of the once happy, but now grossly abused natives, I saw but two, and am told they are almost extinct.  What a sad commentary upon the law that "might makes right."  What tenure could have been more perfect than that by which the native held this island.  It was bequeathed to their forefathers by the Creator, and transmitted from father to son; but a stranger visited them, and they mistook him for a messenger from the Great Spirit, a visitor from the clouds.   They worshipped the stranger, invited him to their groves and pleasure grounds, and gave him bread and wine.  But alas! they have embraced the viper.  The stranger taking advantage of the confidence they, in their simplicity, reposed, smites them with a ruthless hand, and hunts them down like wild beasts, until the last son, goaded to desperation, severs the cord of life and goes to meet the spirit of his fathers on the great "hunting ground."  The nation sinks into oblivion, while that of their ruthless invader is emblazoned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>31st. (Morning).  We are in sight of Hispaniola, Hayti, or San Domingo, by all of which names it has been known at different times; her mountains looming up several thousand feet above the horizon.  The sea is calm, our run pleasant; Cuba now appears off our larboard bow, about forty miles distant.  It is indicated by heavy clouds, at the base of which, or just above the horizon, is seen the dark outline of her mountains.  The mountains within the tropics are universally capped with clouds, which, in floating over, are caught by the peaks, and there waste away, the diminution supplied by the condensation of vapor, or the addition of other clouds.  During the evening, a heavy sea broke against the side of the steamer, bursting our port fastening, and shooting a column of water eight inches in diameter, directly into the berth of my room-mate.  It will readily be imagined that he awoke.  We have just passed point St. Nicholas, the northwest point of St. Domingo, and point Mayxi, the most easterly point of Cuba.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Feb. 1st. A ship is seen, "hull down," off our larboard quarter; no land in sight, a heavy sea, and we are standing directly for the Caycus Islands, which we shall make about sunset.</P>
077.sgm:<P>2nd. We have made the Caycus passage, left the Caribbean Sea, and are now in the Atlantic, heading north by west, making a direct course for New York.  We cross the tropic of Cancer at a quarter to 9 A.M.  We have now nothing to do but promenade, sit in our state-rooms, and read, eat, sleep, and think of home.  We have about 300 passengers on board.  We have live sheep, poultry in abundance, and some twenty huge turtles, weighing from two to three hundred pounds each, some of each falling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>3rd. (Sunday).  We have a sermon by an English clergyman, from Kingston.  By observation at 12 M., we had made 234 miles in twenty-four hours.  We have a strong wind, and very heavy sea; boxes and barrels are running foot races on deck, it rains in torrents, hatches are closed down, but our ship rides gallantly.  She rises manfully from the strife, shakes off the spray, and again leaps upon her antagonist.</P>
077.sgm:<P>4th. Stormy unpleasant day.  We are now off the coast of the Carolinas, in the gulf-stream.  The wind blows cold off the land, reminding us of winter.  Three days ago we were picking oranges and limes, the themometer at 105&deg;.  Oh! anthracite coal!  I most earnestly implore thy protection.  While at dinner, we shipped a sea, which burst through the windows, putting out the lights, carrying every dish from the table, and saturating the entire company.  The captain who, with a party of ladies, was sitting at the head of the table, claimed the most liberal instalment.  At half past 2 P.M., a vessel appears, and bears down for us, running before the wind.  She proves a Spanish bark; her rudder has been carried away, a spar is lashed on in its place, by which they are trying to manage her.  She has up a foresail and spanker, and hoists a signal of distress.  It is blowing a gale, raining in torrents, and the sea running mountain high.  Our quarter boats could not live an instant, rendering it impossible to assist them.  As they passed near us, we saw two men on the foretop-gallant yard.  At 6 P.M., our tiller chains gave way, the steamer is thrown around into the troughs, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:and rolls so that it is impossible to keep footing on deck.  The table, which has just been spread for supper, is swept of every dish; the cold beef chases the vegetables around the saloon, as if death could not dissipate the force of habit; the mustard and vinegar cruets, impelled by the same instinct, gave chase to the beef, and after a protracted run, brought up at my state-room door, <HI REND="italics">entirely exhausted</HI>
077.sgm:.  The most amusing trial of speed took place between a knife and fork and a mince-pie; the latter lost its cap, or I think it would have won the race.  Our chains are soon repaired, and we head on our course.  It is dark, and we see nothing more of the last sail; wine circulates freely; our steamer seems intoxicated, and many of her passengers are <HI REND="italics">down</HI>
077.sgm:<P>5th. Cold unpleasant morning; a heavy sea on.  The wind blowing against the current of the gulf-stream, causes a spray, which rises in columns and seems to congeal in the air.  We are in close proximity to several water-spouts, seeming the connecting links between the ocean and the clouds.  We are under twenty-one inches of steam, but no canvas, the wind having been dead ahead for the past two days.</P>
077.sgm:<P>6th. Clear and cold; five sails in sight; ocean as smooth as a mirror.  We fall in with a Delaware pilot, who reports us one hundred miles from New York.  An exclamation of joy burst from the passengers, who are now all on deck.  At 9 A.M., we saw the smoke of a steamer off our larboard quarter; ten sail in sight; the ocean presents a most sublime spectacle, not a breath disturbs its repose; as if jaded by prolonged agitation, it has relapsed into a quiet slumber.  We are in sight of the light-ship off Delaware Bay; a pilot comes on board; Sandy Hook is in sight; the Jersey shore stretching away to the left, but just seen above the horizon.  We passed Sandy Hook light-house, twenty-five miles from New York, at 7 P.M.  As night draws her curtain round, we see looming up from the horizon, directly in our course, a halo of light, indicating the locality of the city.  All are prepared to land, each, for the time being, absorbed in his own thoughts.  What a diversity; the countenance of each portraying in vivid colors the hopes and fears within.  Here, seated by one of the main pipes, is an emaciated form, clothed in rags; the head is reclining on the hand, the eye sunken, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>This is the history and fate of more than one of our passengers; we, however, have many on board who are returning with robust constitutions and well-filled purses.  Their countenances are lighted up with the fond anticipation of soon being restored to those whose greeting smile and warm embrace will heal the laceration of the past.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The excitement runs high; there is a prospect of reaching our dock by 10 o'clock.  As we approach the Narrows, our steamer suddenly slackens her pace, and we hear a cry of "aground."  Our pilot has run us upon the shoals of Coney Island; the wheels are reversed, but we are fast; the lead is thrown with a cry of " <HI REND="italics">three fathoms</HI>
077.sgm: o' the deep ho!"  We can plainly see the light of the city looming up from the horizon, but the chances are against us.  A new pilot comes on board, who points out the channel; our wheels are reversed, our tiller put hard down, and after several efforts, we are afloat, with the loss of part of our keel.  As we pass through the Narrows, our pilot hands us the morning papers, containing a detail of the Hague street disaster.  The city is now in sight, and we are steaming along with lightning speed; anxiety most intense.  We near our pier, which we find much obstructed by ice; small boats attempt to come off for our hawser, but we are obliged to steam over toward Jersey City and come up again; this time we succeed, and as we are nearing the dock, the death of one of the passengers is announced.  He was the <HI REND="italics">last</HI>
077.sgm: of a party of six that had embarked for, and I believe the only one of the party who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>As the steamer was being warped around, a passenger in attempting to jump to the pier, missed it, and fell through the mass of floating ice below.  He soon gained the surface, but, uttering the most heart-rending screams, again disappeared.  He was eventually rescued, and I jumped for the pier with better success, and stepping into a hack, was rapidly driven in the direction of Broadway.  It is now midnight.  Thirteen months have elapsed since I left, and for the last six, I have not had the least intelligence from home.  My feelings can better be imagined than described, as I pulled the bell at No. 3 Warren street.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ONE word to those about to embark for California.  Take the least possible amount of baggage, in a trunk of the smallest possible size.  As no one can anticipate the circumstances under which they may be placed there, nor the wants of a life in California; it is recommended to buy <HI REND="italics">nothing</HI>
077.sgm: here, as purchases can be made <HI REND="italics">much more judiciously</HI>
077.sgm: in San Francisco, and other towns in California, and at about as fair rates, at the same time saving the trouble and expense of transportation.  The transit charges, by the Nicaragua route, are fifteen cents per pound; this is <HI REND="italics">invariably</HI>
077.sgm: extra, even if one has a transit passage-ticket, which are issued at a charge of about $25.  A limited amount of baggage is taken down the Atlantic and up the Pacific free, but <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
077.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Constitution of the State of California.</HEAD>
077.sgm:<P>PROCLAMATION TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
077.sgm:<P>THE delegates of the people, assembled in Convention, have formed a Constitution, which is now presented for your ratification.  The time and manner of voting on this Constitution, and of holding the first general election, are clearly set forth in the schedule.  The whole subject is, therefore, left for your unbiassed and deliberate consideration.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The Prefect (or person exercising the functions of that office) of each district, will designate the places for opening the polls, and give due notice of the election, in accordance with the provisions of the Constitution and schedule.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The people are now called upon to form a government for themselves, and to designate such officers as they desire, to make and execute the laws.  That their choice may be wisely made, and that the government so organized may secure the permanent welfare and happiness of the people of the new State, is the sincere and earnest wish of the present Executive, who, if the Constitution be ratified, will, with pleasure, surrender his powers to whomsoever the people may designate as his successor.</P>
077.sgm:<P>Given at Monterey, California, this 12th day of October, A.D., 1849.</P>
077.sgm:<P>(Signed)<HSEP>B. RILEY,</P>
077.sgm:<P>Brevet Brig. General, U.S.A., and Governor of California.</P>
077.sgm:<P>(Official)<HSEP>H. W. HALLECK,</P>
077.sgm:<P>Brevet Captain and Secretary of State.  <HI REND="blockindent"><HI REND="italics">We, the People of California, grateful to Almighty God for our freedom, in order to secure its blessings, do establish this Constitution</HI>
077.sgm::<LB></HI>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE I.</P>
077.sgm:<P>DECLARATION OF RIGHTS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  All men are by nature free and independent, and have certain inalienable rights, among which are those of enjoying and defending life and liberty, acquiring, possessing, and protecting property, and pursuing and obtaining safety and happiness.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  All political power is inherent in the people.  Government is instituted for the protection, security, and benefit of the people; and they have the right to alter or reform the same, whenever the public good may require it.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  The right of trial by jury shall be secured to all, and remain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  The free exercise and enjoyment of religious profession and worship, without discrimination or preference, shall forever be allowed in this State; and no person shall be rendered incompetent to be a witness on account of his opinions on matters of religious belief; but the liberty of conscience hereby secured, shall not be so construed as to excuse acts of licentiousness or justify practices inconsistent with the peace or safety of this State.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  The privilege of the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 6.  Excessive bail shall not be required, nor excessive fines imposed, nor shall cruel or unusual punishments be inflicted, nor shall witnesses be unreasonably detained.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  All persons shall be bailable by sufficient sureties: unless for capital offences, when the proof is evident, or the presumption great.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  No person shall be held to answer for a capital or otherwise infamous crime (except in cases of impeachment, and in cases of militia when in actual service, and the land and naval forces in time of war, or which this State may keep with the consent of Congress in time of peace, and in cases of petit larceny under the regulation of the Legislature,) unless on presentment or indictment of a grand jury; and in any trial in any court whatever, the party accused shall be allowed to appear and defend in person and with counsel, as in civil actions.  No person shall be subject to be twice put in jeopardy for the same offence; nor shall he be compelled, in any criminal case, to be a witness against himself, nor be deprived of life, liberty, or property, without due process of law; nor shall private property be taken for public use without just compensation.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  Every citizen may freely speak, write, and publish his sentiments on all subjects, being responsible for the abuse of that right; and no law shall be passed to restrain or abridge the liberty of speech or of the press.  In all criminal prosecutions on indictments for libels, the truth may be given in evidence to the jury; and if it shall appear to the jury that the matter charged as libellous is true, and was published with good motives and for justifiable ends, the party shall be acquitted: and the jury shall have the right to determine the law and the fact.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 10.  The people shall have the right freely to assemble together, to consult for the common good, to instruct their representatives, and to petition the legislature for redress of grievances.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 11.  All laws of a general nature shall have a uniform operation.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  The military shall be subordinate to the civil power.  No standing army shall be kept up by this State in time of peace; and in time of war no appropriation for a standing army shall be for a longer time than two years.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 13.  No soldier shall, in time of peace, be quartered in any house, without the consent of the owner; nor in time of war, except in the manner to be prescribed by law.</P>
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077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  Representation shall be apportioned according to population.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 15.  No person shall be imprisoned for debt, in any civil action on <HI REND="italics">mesne</HI>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  No bill of attainder, <HI REND="italics">ex post facto</HI>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 17.  Foreigners who are, or who may hereafter become, <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 18.  <HI REND="italics">Neither slavery, nor involuntary servitude, unless for the punishment of crimes, shall ever be tolerated in thisState</HI>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 19.  The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses, papers, and effects, against unreasonable seizures and searches, shall not be violated; and now arrant shall issue but on probable cause, supported by oath or affirmation, particularly describing the place to be searched, and the persons and things to be seized.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 20.  Treason against the State shall consist only in levying war against it, adhering to its enemies, or giving them aid and comfort.  No person shall be convicted of treason, unless on the evidence of two witnesses to the same overt act, or confession in open court.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 21.  This enumeration of rights shall not be construed to impair or deny others retained by the people.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE II.</P>
077.sgm:<P>RIGHT OF SUFFRAGE.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  Every white male citizen of the United States, and every white male citizen of Mexico, who shall have elected to become a citizen of the United States, under the treaty of peace exchanged and ratified at Queretaro, on the 30th day of May, 1848, of the age of twenty-one years, who shall have been a resident of the State six months next preceding the election, and the county or district in which he claims his vote thirty days, shall be entitled to vote at all elections which are now or hereafter may be authorized by law:  Provided, that nothing herein contained shall be construed to prevent the Legislature, by a two-thirds concurrent vote, from admitting to the right of suffrage, Indians or the descendants of Indians, in such special cases as such a proportion of the legislative body may deem just and proper.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  Electors shall, on all cases except treason, felony, or breach of the peace, be privileged from arrest on the days of the election, during their attendance at such election, going to and returning therefrom.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  No elector shall be obliged to perform militia duty on the day of election, except in time of war or public danger.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  For the purpose of voting, no person shall be deemed to have gained or lost a residence by reason of his presence or absence while employed in the service of the United States; nor while engaged in the navigation of the waters of this State, or of the United States, or of the high seas; nor while a student of any seminary of learning; nor while kept at any almshouse, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  No idiot or insane person, or person convicted of any infamous crime, shall be entitled to the privileges of an elector.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 6.  All elections by the people shall be by ballot.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE III.</P>
077.sgm:<P>DISTRIBUTION OF POWERS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The powers of the government of the State of California shall be divided into three separate departments: the Legislature, the Executive, and Judicial; and no person charged with the exercise of powers properly belonging to one of these departments, shall exercise any functions appertaining to either of the others; except in the cases hereinafter expressly directed or permitted.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE IV.</P>
077.sgm:<P>LEGISLATIVE DEPARTMENT.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The legislative power of this State shall be vested in a Senate and Assembly, which shall be designated the Legislature of the State of California, and the enacting clause of every law shall be as follows:  "The people of the State of California, represented in Senate and Assembly, do enact as follows."</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The sessions of the Legislature shall be annual, and shall commence on the first Monday of January, next ensuing the election of its members; unless the Governor of the State shall, in the interim, convene the Legislature by proclamation.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  The members of the Assembly shall be chosen annually, by the qualified electors of their respective districts, on the Tuesday next after the first Monday in November, unless otherwise ordered by the Legislature, and their term of office shall be one year.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  Senators and members of Assembly shall be duly qualified electors in the respective counties and districts which they represent.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  Senators shall be chosen for the term of two years, at the same time and places as members of Assembly; and no person shall be a member of the Senate or Assembly, who has not been a citizen and inhabitant of the State one year, and of the county or district for which he shall be chosen, six months next before his election.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 6.  The number of Senators shall not be less than one-third, nor more than one-half of that of the members of Assembly; and at the first session of the Legislature after this Constitution takes effect, the Senators shall be divided by lot as equally as may be, into two classes; the seats of the Senators of the first class shall be vacated at the expiration of the first year, so that one-half shall be chosen annually.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  When the number of Senators is increased, they shall be apportioned by lot, so as to keep the two classes as nearly equal in number as possible.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  Each house shall choose its own officers, and judge of the qualifications, elections, and returns of its own members.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  A majority of each house shall constitute a quorum to do business; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 10.  Each house shall determine the rules of its own proceedings, and may with the concurrence of two-thirds of all the members elected, expel a member.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 11.  Each house shall keep a journal of its own proceedings, and publish the same; and the yeas and nays of the members of either house, on any question, shall, at the desire of any three members present, be entered on the journal.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  Members of the Legislature shall, in all cases except treason, felony, and breach of the peace, be privileged from arrest, and they shall not be subject to any civil process during the session of the Legislature, nor for fifteen days next before the commencement and after the termination of each session.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 13.  When vacancies occur in either house, the Governor, or the person exercising the functions of the Governor, shall issue writs of election to fill such vacancies.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  The doors of each house shall be open, except on such occasions as in the opinion of the house may require secrecy.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 15.  Neither house shall, without the consent of the other, adjourn for more than three days, nor to any other place than that in which they may be sitting.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  Any bill may originate in either house of the Legislature, and all bills passed by one house may be amended in the other.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 17.  Every bill which may have passed the Legislature, shall, before it becomes a law, be presented to the Governor.  If he approve it, he shall sign it; but if not, he shall return it, with his objections, to the house in which it originated, which shall enter the same upon the journal, and proceed to reconsider it.  If, after such reconsideration, it again pass both houses, by yeas and nays, by a majority of two-thirds of the members of each house present, it shall become a law, notwithstanding the Governor's objections.  If any bill shall not be returned within ten days after it shall have been presented to him, (Sunday excepted,) the same shall be a law, in like manner as if he had signed it, unless the Legislature, by adjournment, prevent such return.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 18.  The Assembly shall have the sole power of impeachment; and all impeachments shall be tried by the Senate.  When sitting for that purpose, the Senators shall be upon oath or affirmation; and no person shall be convicted without the concurrence of two-thirds of the members present.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 19.  The Governor, Lieutenant Governor, Secretary of State, Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General, Surveyor General, Justices of the Supreme Court and Judges of the District Courts, shall be liable to impeachment for any misdemeanor in office; but judgment in such cases shall extend only to removal from office, and disqualification to hold any office of honor, trust, or profit, under the State; but the party convicted, or acquitted, shall nevertheless be liable to indictment, trial and punishment, according to law.  All <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 20.  No Senator or member of Assembly shall, during the term for which he shall have been elected, be appointed to any civil office of profit, under this State, which shall have been created, or the emoluments of which shall have been increased, during such term, except such office as may be filled by elections by the people.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 21.  No person holding any lucrative office under the United States, or any other power, shall be eligible to any civil office of profit, under this State; provided, that officers in the militia, to which there is attached no annual salary, or local officers and postmasters whose compensation does not exceed five hundred dollars per annum, shall not be deemed lucrative.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 22.  No person who shall be convicted of the embezzlement or defalcation of the public funds of this State, shall ever be eligible to any office of honor, trust, or profit, under the State; and the Legislature shall, as soon as practicable, pass a law providing for the punishment of such embezzlement, or defalcation, as a felony.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 23.  No money shall be drawn from the Treasury but in consequence of appropriations made by law.  An accurate statement of the receipts and expenditures of the public moneys shall be attached to, and published with, the laws, at every regular session of the Legislature.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 24.  The members of the Legislature shall receive for their services, a compensation to be fixed by law, and paid out of the public treasury; but no increase of the compensation shall take effect during the term for which the members of either house shall have been elected.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 25.  Every law enacted by the Legislature, shall embrace but one object, and that shall be expressed in the title: and no law shall be revised, or amended, by reference to its title; but in such case, the act revised, or section amended, shall be re-enacted and published at length.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 26.  No divorce shall be granted by the Legislature.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 27.  No lottery shall be authorized by this State, nor shall the sale of lottery tickets be allowed.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 28.  The enumeration of the inhabitants of this State shall be taken, under the direction of the Legislature, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, and one thousand eight hundred and fifty-five, and at the end of every ten years thereafter; and these enumerations, together with the census that may be taken, under the direction of the Congress of the United States, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty, and every subsequent ten years, shall serve as the basis of representation in both houses of the Legislature.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 29.  The number of Senators and members of Assembly, shall, at the first session of the Legislature, holden after the enumerations herein provided for are made, be fixed by the Legislature, and apportioned among the several counties and districts to be established by law, according to the number of white inhabitants.  The number of members of Assembly shall not be less than twenty-four, nor more than thirty-six, until the number of inhabitants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>SEC. 30.  When a congressional, senatorial, or assembly district, shall be composed of two or more counties, it shall not be separated by any county belonging to another district; and no county shall be divided, in forming a congressional, senatorial, or assembly district.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 31.  Corporations may be formed under general laws, but shall not be created by special act, except for municipal purposes.  All general laws and special acts passed pursuant to this section may be altered from time to time, or repealed.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 32.  Dues from corporations shall be secured by such individual liability of the corporators, and other means, as may be prescribed by law.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 33.  The term corporations, as used in this article, shall be construed to include all associations and joint-stock companies, having any of the powers or privileges of corporations not possessed by individuals or partnerships.  And all corporations shall have the right to sue, and shall be subject to be sued, in all courts, in like cases as natural persons.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 34.  The Legislature shall have no power to pass any act granting any charter for banking purposes; but associations may be formed under general laws, for the deposit of gold and silver; but no such association shall make, issue, or put in circulation, any bill, check, tickets, certificate, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of any bank, to circulate as money.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 35.  The Legislature of this State shall prohibit, by law, any person or persons, association, company, or corporation, from exercising the privileges of banking, or creating paper to circulate as money.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 36.  Each stockholder of a corporation, or joint-stock association, shall be individually and personally liable for his proportion of all its debts and liabilities.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 37.  It shall be the duty of the Legislature to provide for the organization of cities and incorporated villages, and to restrict their power of taxation, assessment, borrowing money, contracting debts, and loaning their credit, so as to prevent abuses in assessments, and in contracting debts by such municipal corporations.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 38.  In all elections by the Legislature, the members thereof shall vote <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE V.</P>
077.sgm:<P>EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The supreme executive power of this State shall be vested in a chief magistrate, who shall be styled the Governor of the State of California.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The Governor shall be elected by the qualified electors, at the time and places of voting for members of Assembly, and shall hold his office two years from the time of his installation, and until his successor shall be qualified.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  No person shall be eligible to the office of Governor, (except at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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077.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  The returns of every election for Governor shall be sealed up and transmitted to the seat of government, directed to the Speaker of the Assembly, who shall, during the first week of the session, open and publish them in presence of both houses of the legislature.  The person having the highest number of votes shall be Governor; but in case any two or more have an equal and the highest number of votes, the Legislature shall, by joint-vote of both houses, choose one of said persons, so having an equal and the highest number of votes, for Governor.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  The Governor shall be commander-in-chief of the militia, the army, and navy, of this State.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 6.  He shall transact all executive business with the officers of government, civil and military, and may require information in writing from the officers of the executive department, upon any subject relating to the duties of the respective offices.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  He shall see that the laws are faithfully executed.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  When any office shall, from any cause become vacant, and no mode is provided by the constitution and laws for filling such vacancy, the Governor shall have power to fill such vacancy by granting a commission, which shall expire at the end of the next session of the Legislature, or at the next election by the people.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  He may, on extraordinary occasions, convene the Legislature by proclamation, and shall state to both houses, when assembled, the purpose for which they shall have been convened.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 10.  He shall communicate by message to the Legislature, at every session, the condition of the State, and recommend such matters as he shall deem expedient.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 11.  In case of a disagreement between the two houses, with respect to the time of adjournment, the Governor shall have power to adjourn the Legislature to such time as he may think proper; Provided it be not beyond the time fixed for the meeting of the next Legislature.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  No person shall, while holding any office under the United States, or this State, exercise the office of Governor, except as hereinafter expressly provided.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 13.  The Governor shall have the power to grant reprieves and pardons, after conviction, for all offences except treason, and cases of impeachment, upon such conditions, and with such restrictions and limitations, as he may think proper, subject to such regulations as may be provided by law relative to the manner of applying for pardons.  Upon conviction for treason he shall have the power to suspend the execution of the sentence until the case shall be reported to the Legislature at its next meeting, when the Legislature shall either pardon, direct the execution of the sentence, or grant a further reprieve.  He shall communicate to the Legislature, at the beginning of every session, every case of reprieve, or pardon granted, stating the name <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  There shall be a seal of this State, which shall be kept by the Governor, and used by him officially, and it shall be called "The great seal of the State of California."</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 15.  All grants and commissions shall be in the name and by the authority of the people of the State of California, sealed with the great seal of the State, signed by the Governor, and countersigned by the Secretary of State.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  A Lieutenant Governor shall be elected at the same time and place, and in the same manner as the Governor; and his term of office, and his qualifications of eligibility, shall also be the same.  He shall be President of the Senate, but shall only have a casting vote therein.  If, during a vacancy of the office of Governor, the Lieutenant Governor shall be impeached, displaced, resign, die, or become incapable of performing the duties of his office, or be absent from the State, the President of the Senate shall act as Governor, until the vacancy be filled, or the disability shall cease.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 17.  In case of the impeachment of the Governor, or his removal from office, death, inability to discharge the powers and duties of the said office, resignation or absence from the State, the powers and duties of the office shall devolve upon the Lieutenant Governor for the residue of the term, or until the disability shall cease.  But when the Governor shall, with the consent of the Legislature, be out of the State in time of war, at the head of any military force thereof, he shall continue commander-in-chief of all the military force of the State.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 18.  A Secretary of State, a Comptroller, a Treasurer, an Attorney General and Surveyor General, shall be chosen in the manner provided in this Constitution; and the term of office, and eligibility of each, shall be the same as are prescribed for the Governor and Lieutenant Governor.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 19.  The Secretary of State shall be appointed by the Governor, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate.  He shall keep a fair record of the official acts of the Legislative and Executive Departments of the government; and shall, when required, lay the same, and all matters relative thereto, before either branch of the Legislature: and shall perform such other duties as shall be assigned him by law.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 20.  The Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General and Surveyor General, shall be chosen by joint vote of the two houses of the Legislature, at their first session under this Constitution, and thereafter shall be elected at the same time and places, and in the same manner, as the Governor and Lieutenant Governor.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 21.  The Governor, Lieutenant Governor, Secretary of State, Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General, and Surveyor General, shall each at stated times during their continuance in office, receive for their services a compensation, which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they shall have been elected; but neither of these officers shall receive for his own use any fees for the performance of his official duties.</P>
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077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VI.</P>
077.sgm:<P>JUDICIAL DEPARTMENT.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The judicial power of this State shall be vested in a Supreme Court, in District Courts, in County Courts, and in Justices of the Peace.  The Legislature may also establish such municipal and other inferior courts as may be deemed necessary.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The Supreme Court shall consist of a Chief Justice, and two Associate Justices, any two of whom shall constitute a quorum.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  The Justices of the Supreme Court shall be elected at the general election, by the qualified electors of the State, and shall hold their office for the term of six years from the first day of January next after their election; provided that the Legislature shall, at its first meeting, elect a Chief Justice and two Associate Justices of the Supreme Court, by joint vote of both houses, and so classify them that one shall go out of office every two years.  After the first election, the senior Justice in commissionshall be the Chief Justice.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  The Supreme Court shall have appellate jurisdiction in all cases when the matter in dispute exceeds two hundred dollars, when the legality of any tax, toll, or impost or municipal fine is in question: and in all criminal cases amounting to felony, or questions of law alone.  And the said court, and each of the Justices thereof, as well as all district and county judges, shall have power to issue writs of habeas corpus, at the instance of any person held in actual custody.  They shall also have power to issue all other writs and process necessary to the exercise of the appellate jurisdiction, and shall be conservators of the peace throughout the State.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  The State shall be divided by the first Legislature into a convenient number of districts, subject to such alteration from time to time as the public good may require; for each of which a district judge shall be appointed by the joint vote of the legislature, at its first meeting, who shall hold his office for two years from the first day of January next after his election; after which, said judges shall be elected by the qualified electors of their respective districts, at the general election, and shall hold their office for the term of six years.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 6.  The District Courts shall have original jurisdiction, in law and equity, in all civil cases where the amount in dispute exceeds two hundred dollars, exclusive of interest.  In all criminal cases not otherwise provided for, and in all issues of fact joined in the probate courts, their jurisdiction shall be unlimited.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  The legislature shall provide for the election, by the people, of a Clerk of the Supreme Court, and County Clerks, District Attorneys, Sheriffs, Coroners, and other necessary officers; and shall fix by law their duties and compensation.  County Clerks shall be, <HI REND="italics">ex-officio</HI>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  There shall be elected in each of the organized counties of this State, one County Judge who shall hold his office for four years.  He shall hold the County Court, and perform the duties of Surrogate, or Probate Judge.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  The County Courts shall have such jurisdiction, in cases arising in Justices Courts, and in special cases, as the Legislature may prescribe, but shall have no original civil jurisdiction, except in such special cases.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 10.  The times and places of holding the terms of the Supreme Court, and the general and special terms of the District Courts within the several districts, shall be provided for by law.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 11.  No judicial officer, except a Justice of the Peace, shall receive, to his own use, any fees, or perquisites of office.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  The Legislature shall provide for the speedy publication of all statute laws, and of such judicial decisions as it may deem expedient; and all laws and judicial decisions shall be free for publication by any person.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 13.  Tribunals for conciliation may be established, with such powers and duties as may be prescribed by law; but such tribunals shall have no power to render judgment to be obligatory on the parties, except they voluntarily submit their matters in difference, and agree to abide the judgment, or assent thereto in the presence of such tribunal, in such cases as shall be prescribed by law.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  The Legislature shall determine the number of Justices of the Peace, to be elected in each county, city, town, and incorporated village of the State, and fix by law their powers, duties, and responsibilities.  It shall also determine in what cases appeals may be made from Justices' Courts to the County Court.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 15.  The Justices of the Supreme Court, and Judges of the District Court, shall severally, at stated times during their continuance in office, receive for their services a compensation, to be paid out of the treasury, which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they shall have been elected.  The county Judges shall also severally, at stated times, receive for their services a compensation to be paid out of the county treasury of their respective counties, which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they shall have been elected.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  The Justices of the Supreme Court and District Judges shall be ineligible to any other office, during the term for which they shall have been elected.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 17.  Judges shall not charge juries with respect to matters of fact, but may state the testimony and declare the law.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 18.  The style of all process shall be "The People of the State of California;" all the prosecutions shall be conducted in the name and by the authority of the same.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VII.</P>
077.sgm:<P>MILITIA.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The legislature shall provide by law, for organizing and disciplining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  Officers of the militia shall be elected or appointed, in such manner as the legislature shall from time to time direct; and shall be commissioned by the governor.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  The governor shall have power to call forth the militia, to execute the laws of the State, to suppress insurrections and repel invasions.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VIII.</P>
077.sgm:<P>STATE DEBTS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall not in any manner create any debt or debts, liability or liabilities, which shall singly, or in the aggregate, with any previous debts or liabilities, exceed the sum of three hundred thousands dollars, except in case of war, to repel invasion, or suppress insurrection, unless the same shall be authorized by some law for some single object or work, to be distinctly specified therein, which law shall provide ways and means, exclusive of loans, for the payment of the interest of such debt or liability, as it falls due, and also pay and discharge the principal of such debt or liability within twenty years from the time of the contracting thereof, and shall be irrepealable until the principal and interest thereon shall be paid and discharged; but no such law shall take effect until, at a general election, it shall have been submitted to the people, and have received a majority of all the votes cast for and against it at such election; and all money raised by authority of such law shall be applied only to the specific object therein stated, or to the payment of the debt thereby created; and such law shall be published in at least one newspaper in each judicial district, if one be published therein, throughout the State, for three months next preceding the election at which it is submitted to the people.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE IX.</P>
077.sgm:<P>EDUCATION.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The Legislature shall provide for the election, by the people, of a Superintendent of Public Instruction, who shall hold his office for three years, and whose duties shall be prescribed by law, and who shall receive such compensation as the Legislature may direct.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The Legislature shall encourage, by all suitable means, the promotion of intellectual, scientific, moral and agricultural improvement.  The proceeds of all lands that may be granted by the United States to this State for the support of schools, which may be sold or disposed of, and the five hundred thousand acres of land granted to the new States, under an act of Congress distributing the proceeds of the public lands among the several States of the Union, approved A.D. 1841; and all estates of deceased persons who may have died without leaving a will, or heir, and also such per cent. as may be granted by Congress on the sale of lands in this State, shall be and remain a perpetual fund, the interest of which, together with all the rents of the unsold lands, and such other means as the Legislature may provide, shall be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  The Legislature shall provide for a system of Common Schools, by which a school shall be kept up and supported in each district at least three months in every year: and any school district neglecting to keep up and support such a school, may be deprived of its proportion of the interest of the public fund during such neglect.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  The Legislature shall take measures for the protection, improvement, or other disposition of such lands as have been, or may hereafter be, reserved or granted by the United States, or any person or persons to this State for the use of a University; and the funds accruing from the rents or sale of such lands, or from any other source, for the purpose aforesaid, shall be and remain a permanent fund, the interest of which shall be applied to the support of said university, with such branches as the public convenience may demand for the promotion of literature, the arts and sciences, as may be authorized by the terms of such grant.  And it shall be the duty of the Legislature, as soon as may be, to provide effectual means for the improvement and permanent security of the funds of said University.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE X.</P>
077.sgm:<P>MODE OF AMENDING AND REVISING THE CONSTITUTION.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  Any amendment or amendments to this constitution may be proposed in the Senate or Assembly; and if the same shall be agreed to by a majority of the members elected to each of the two houses, such proposed amendment or amendments shall be entered on their journals, with the yeas and nays taken thereon, and referred to the Legislature then next to be chosen, and shall be published for three months next preceding the time of making such choice.  And if, in the Legislature next chosen, as aforesaid, such proposed amendment or amendments shall be agreed to by a majority of all the members elected to each house, then it shall be the duty of the Legislature to submit such proposed amendment or amendments to the people, in such manner, and at such time, as the Legislature shall prescribe; and if the people shall approve and ratify such amendment or amendments, by a majority of the electors qualified to vote for members of the Legislature voting thereon, such amendment or amendments shall become part of the Constitution.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  And if, at any time, two-thirds of the Senate and Assembly shall think it necessary to revise and change this entire Constitution, they shall recommend to the electors, at the next election for members of the Legislature, to vote for or against the convention; and if it shall appear that a majority of the electors voting at such election have voted in favor of calling a convention, the Legislature shall, at its next session, provide by law for calling a convention, to be holden within six months after the passage of such law; and such convention shall consist of a number of members not less than that of both branches of the Legislature.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XI.</P>
077.sgm:<P>MISCELLANEOUS PROVISIONS.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The first session of the Legislature shall be held at the Pueblo de <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  Any citizen of this State who shall, after the adoption of this constitution, fight a duel with deadly weapons, or send or accept a challenge to fight a duel with deadly weapons, either within the State or out of it; or who shall act as second, or knowingly aid or assist in any manner those thus offending, shall not be allowed to hold any office of profit, or to enjoy the right of suffrage under this Constitution.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  Members of the Legislature, and all officers, executive and judicial, except such inferior officers as may be by law exempted, shall, before they enter on the duties of their respective offices, take and subscribe the following oath or affirmation.</P>
077.sgm:<P>"I do solemnly swear (or affirm, as the case may be,) that I will support the Constitution of the United States, and the constitution of the State of California; and that I will faithfully discharge the duties of the office of --, according to the best of my ability."  And no other oath, declaration, or test, shall be required as a qualification for any office or public trust.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  The Legislature shall establish a system of county and town governments, which shall be as nearly uniform as practicable, throughout the State.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  The Legislature shall have power to provide for the election of a board of supervisors in each county; and these supervisors shall, jointly and individually, perform such duties as may be prescribed by law.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 6.  All officers whose election or appointment is not provided for by this constitution, and all officers whose offices may hereafter be created by law, shall be elected by the people, or appointed as the Legislature may direct.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  When the duration of any office is not provided for by this constitution, it may be declared by law; and if not so declared, such office shall be held during the pleasure of the authority making the appointment; nor shall the duration of any office, not fixed by this constitution, ever exceed four years.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  The fiscal year shall commence on the first day of July.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  Each county, town, city and incorporated village, shall make provision for the support of its own officers, subject to such restrictions and regulations as the Legislature may prescrive.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 10.  The credit of the State shall not in any manner be given or loaned to, or in aid of, any individual, association or corporation; nor shall the State, directly or indirectly, become a stockholder in any association or corporation.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 11.  Suits may be brought against the State, in such manner, and in such courts, as shall be directed by law.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  No contract of marriage, if otherwise duly made, shall be invalidated, for want of conformity to the requirements of any religious sect.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 13.  Taxation shall be equal and uniform throughout the State.  All property, in this State, shall be taxed in proportion to its value, to be ascertained as directed by law; but assessors and collectors of town, county and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  All property, both real and personal, of the wife, owned or claimed by her before marriage, and that acquired afterwards by gift, devise or descent, shall be her separate property; and laws shall be passed more clearly defining the rights of the wife, in relation as well to her separate property, as to that held in common with her husband.  Laws shall also be passed providing for the registration of the wife's separate property.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 15.  The Legislature shall protect by law, from forced sale, a certain portion of the homestead and other property of all heads of families.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  No perpetuities shall be allowed, except for eleemosynary purposes.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 17.  Every person shall be disqualified from holding any office of profit in this State, who shall have been convicted of having given or offered a bribe, to procure his election or appointment.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 18.  Laws shall be made to exclude from office, serving on juries, and from the right of suffrage, those who shall hereafter be convicted of bribery, perjury, forgery, or other high crimes.  The privilege of free suffrage shall be supported by laws regulating elections, and prohibiting, under adequate penalties, all undue influence thereon, from power, bribery, tumult, or other improper practice.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 19.  Absence from this State on business of the State, or of the United States, shall not affect the question of residence of any person.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 20.  A plurality of the votes given at any election shall constitute a choice, where not otherwise directed in this constitution.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 21.  All laws, decrees, regulations, and provisions, which from their nature require publication, shall be published in English and Spanish.</P>
077.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XII.</P>
077.sgm:<P>BOUNDARY.</P>
077.sgm:<P>The boundary of the State of California shall be as follows:--</P>
077.sgm:<P>Commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d degree of north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude west from Greenwich, and running south on the line of said 120th degree of west longitude until it intersects the 39th degree of north latitude; thence running in a straight line in a southeasterly direction to the river Colorado, at a point where it intersects the 35th degree of north latitude; thence down the middle of the channel of said river, to the boundary line between the United States and Mexico, as established by the treaty of May 30th, 1848; thence running west and along said boundary line to the Pacific Ocean, and extending therein three English miles; thence running in a northwesterly direction, and following the direction of the Pacific coast to the 42d degree of north latitude; thence on the line of said 42d degree of north latitude to the place of beginning.  Also all the islands, harbors and bays, along and adjacentto the Pacific coast.</P>
077.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SCHEDULE.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  All rights, prosecutions, claims and contracts, as well of individuals as of bodies corporate, and all laws in force at the time of the adoption of this constitution, and not inconsistent therewith, until altered or repealed by the Legislature, shall continue as if the same had not been adopted.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The Legislature shall provide for the removal of all causes which may be pending when this constitution goes into effect, to courts created by the same.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  In order that no inconvenience may result to the public service, from the taking effect of this constitution, no office shall be superseded thereby, nor the laws relative to the duties of the several offices be changed, until the entering into office of the new officers to be appointed under this constitution.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  The provisions of this constitution concerning the term of residence necessary to enable persons to hold certain offices therein mentioned, shall not be held to apply to officers chosen by the people at the first election, or by the Legislature at its first session.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  Every citizen of California, declared a legal voter by this constitution, and every citizen of the United States, a resident of this State on the day of election, shall be entitled to vote at the first general election under this constitution, and on the question of the adoption thereof.</P>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  If this constitution shall be ratified by the people of California, the Executive of the existing government is hereby requested, immediately after the same shall be ascertained, in the manner herein directed, to cause a fair copy thereof to be forwarded to the President of the United States, in order that he may lay it before the Congress of the United States.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  At the general election aforesaid, viz.: the thirteenth day of November next, there shall be elected a Governor, Lieutenant Governor, members of the Legislature, and also two members of Congress.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  If this constitution shall be ratified by the people of California, the legislature shall assemble at the seat of government, on the fifteenth day of December next, and in order to complete the organization of that body, the Senate shall elect a President <HI REND="italics">pro tempore</HI>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 10.  On the organization of the legislature, it shall be the duty of the Secretary of State, to lay before each house a copy of the abstract made by the board of canvassers, and, if called for, the original returns of election, in order that each house may judge of the correctness of the report of said board of canvassers.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 11.  The legislature, at its first session, shall elect such officers as may be ordered by this constitution, to be elected by that body, and within four days after its organization, proceed to elect two Senators to the Congress of the United States.  But no law passed by this legislature shall take effect until signed by the Governor, after his installation into office.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  The Senators and Representatives to the Congress of the United States, elected by the legislature and people of California, as herein directed, shall be furnished with certified copies of this constitution, when ratified, which they shall lay before the Congress of the United States, requesting, in the name of the people of California, the admission of the State of California into the American Union.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 13.  All officers of this State, other than memvers of the legislature, shall be installed into office on the fifteenth day of December next, or as soon thereafter as practicable.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  Until the legislature shall divide the State into counties, and senatorial and assembly districts, as directed by this constitution, the following shall be the apportionment of the two houses of the legislature, viz.: the districts of San Diego and Los [Angelos] shall jointly elect two senators; the districts of Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo shall jointly elect one senator; the district of Monterey, one senator; the district of San Jose, one senator; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
077.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 15.  Until the legislature shall otherwise direct, in accordance with the provisions of this constitution, the salary of the Governor shall be ten thousand dollars per annum; and the salary of the Lieutenant Governor shall double the pay of a state senator; and the pay of members of the legislature shall be sixteen dollars per diem, while in attendance, and sixteen dollars for every twenty miles travel by the usual route from their residences, to the place of holding the session of the legislature, and in returning therefrom.  And the legislature shall fix the the salaries of all officers, other than those elected by the people, at the first election.</P>
077.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  The limitation of the powers of the legislature, contained in article 8th of this constitution, shall not extend to the first legislature elected under the same, which is hereby authorized to negotiate for such amount as may be necessary to pay the expenses of the State Government.</P>
077.sgm:<P>R. SEMPLE,<LB>President of the Convention,<LB>and Delegate from Benicia.</P>
077.sgm:<P>WM. G. MARCY, Secretary.</P>
077.sgm:<P>J. ARAM,<LB>C. T. BOTTS,<LB>E. BROWN,<LB>J. A. CARILLO,<LB>J. M. COVARRUBIAS,<LB>E. O. CROSBY,<LB>P. D. LA GUERRA,<LB>L. DENT,<LB>M. DOMINGUEZ,<LB>K. H. DIMMICK,<LB>A. J. ELLIS,<LB>S. C. FOSTER,<LB>E. GILBERT,<LB>W. M. GWINN,<LB>H. W. HALLECK,<LB>JULIAN HANKS,<LB>L. W. HASTINGS,<LB>HENRY HILL,<LB>J. JOBSON,<LB>J. MCH. HOLLINGSWORTH,<LB>J. D. HOPPE,<LB>J. M. JONES,<LB>T. O. LARKIN,<LB>FRANCIS L. LIPPITT,<LB>B. S. LIPPINCOTT,<LB>M. M. MCCARVER,<LB>JOHN MCDOUGAL,<LB>B. F. MOORE,<LB>MYRON NORTON,<LB>P. ORD,<LB>MIGUEL PEDRORENA,<LB>A. M. PICO,<LB>R. M. PRICE,<LB>HUGO REID,<LB>JACINTO RODRIGUEZ,<LB>PEDRO SANSEVAINE,<LB>W. E. SHANNON,<LB>W. S. SHERWOOD,<LB>J.R. SNYDER,<LB>A. STEARNS,<LB>W. M. STEUART,<LB>J. A. SUTTER,<LB>HENRY A. TEFFT.<LB>S. L. VERMULE,<LB>M. G. VALLEJO,<LB>J. WALKER,<LB>O. M. WOZENCRAFT.</P>
078.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-078</TITLE>
078.sgm:<TITLE>A pioneer at Sutter's fort, 1846-1850; the adventures of Heinrich Lienhard. Translated and edited by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur from the original German manuscript:  a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
078.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
078.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
078.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
078.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
078.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
078.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
078.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>42-11300</LCCN>
078.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
078.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 160088</COPYRIGHT>
078.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P><illus entity="a078-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P><illus entity="a078-0002" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P><illus entity="a078-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LIENHARD AS A YOUNG MAN.  FROM A FAMILY PHOTOGRAPH. Courtesy of Miss Mary Lienhard.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This Book is Number Three of the Calafi&acute;a Series</HI>
078.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The legend of Calafi&acute;a is intimately associated with the nomenclature of California.  This fanciful tale occurs in the fifth book of a popular Portuguese-Spanish cycle of the late fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries, a romance in which the knightly and heroic deeds of Prince Esplandian, son of King Amadis, who rallied to the support of the Christian faith when it was threatened by the pagan forces before the walls of Constantinople, are depicted in the elaborate manner of the period.  As the battle between the Crescent and the Cross reached its zenith, the opposing armies were thrown into turmoil when Esplandian fell suddenly in love with one of the allies of the pagan King Armato, a beautiful queen who lived on an island called California, "very close to that part of the terrestial paradise, which was inhabited by black women without a single man among them, who lived in the manner of Amazons</HI>
078.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The name of this queen was Calafi&acute;a</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT 1941 BY</P>
078.sgm:<P>MARGUERITE EYER WILBUR</P>
078.sgm:<P>PRINTED IN U.S.A.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>A PIONEER AT</P>
078.sgm:<P>SUTTER'S</P>
078.sgm:<P>FORT</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<illus entity="a078-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A TYPICAL PAGE FROM LIENHARD'S MANUSCRIPT.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>A Pioneer at Sutter's</P>
078.sgm:<P>Fort, 1846-1850</P>
078.sgm:<P>THE ADVENTURES OF HEINRICH LIENHARD</P>
078.sgm:<P>NO. 3</P>
078.sgm:<P>OF THE CALAFI&acute;A SERIES <HI REND="italics">Translated, Edited, and Annotated by</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Marguerite Eyer Wilbur</P>
078.sgm:<P>From the original German Manuscript </P>
078.sgm:<P>THE CALAFI&acute;A SOCIETY</P>
078.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES, 1941  </P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>i</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>The custom's inspector on the Swiss-French border looked at the sturdy young man quizzically.  He threw open the lid of his chest, checked a huge sixty-pound cheese, a feather bed, a copper frying pan, two sturdy woolen suits, a neat pile of socks and handkerchiefs, several guns and pistols, then made out the lad's clearance papers.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Your name?" he inquired.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Heinrich Lienhard."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Date and place of birth?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"January 19, 1822, Ussbuhl, near Bilten, Canton Glaurus, Switzerland."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Father's occupation?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Farmer."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Destination?"  He smiled sympathetically at the eager brown eyes watching him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"America."</P>
078.sgm:<P>Heinrich Lienhard had embarked on the great adventure, one he had dreamed of since childhood.  All through the long trip across France by stage to the port of Havre he had ample time to ponder over his past life, dream and plan for the future.  As far back as he could recall, life had been dreary on the parental farm.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Pleasures had been few and far between.  His father had been harsh, stern, and unsympathetic toward him, his sister, and his two brothers.  He had been sent out to herd cattle at the age of six.  Since then he had known little but work.  Brief periods of schooling had been interrupted, time and again, by pressure of work on his father's farm.</P>
078.sgm:<P>To wrest a living from a Swiss farm sapped the strength of the Lienhard clan.  Yet ownership of the soil was traditional with its men.  <HI REND="italics">Bleibe im Lande und naehre dich redlich</HI>
078.sgm: --remain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ii</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Heinrich's father, like his forebears, had scrimped and saved to buy land, more and more land for his three sturdy sons.  His purchases plunged the family into debt; the financial burden weighed heavily on his honest shoulders, and, as the years passed, he had grown morose, sullen, and bitter.  These traits his eldest son inherited and became so taciturn and moody that Heinrich and the younger Lienhard children suffered keenly from the depressing home atmosphere.</P>
078.sgm:<P>To the sensitive Heinrich, refuge from the misery this caused him was imperative.  Even in childhood he loved the fine things of life--music, art, books, and nature--with an absorbing passion.  One of his boyish ambitions was to become an artist and create pictures; a talent for drawing was obvious during his spasmodic periods of schooling, but his father did nothing to foster it and definitely discouraged his youthful aspirations in the realm of art.  Reading, writing, and arithmetic--these were ample education for a farmer.</P>
078.sgm:<P>A solitary tie, his intense love for his mother and his sympathy for her unhappy life with his stern father, kept him from running away from home.  Yet at times he became so despondent that he considered taking his own life, and only visions of the grief and pain his death would cause his delicate mother prevented this drastic act.  He found some solace in introspection, in dreaming of what lay beyond the massive peaks of the neighboring Alps.  As he grew older fascinating tales of America, the enthralling adventures of trappers, fur traders, and explorers, reached his ears.  They gave him a new interest in life.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Several cousins, who had crossed the Atlantic and settled in the United States, also wrote glowing accounts of their experiences to relatives in Switzerland.  The older he grew the more stories of the New World diverted Heinrich; farm chores seemed trivial by contrast.  Night after night as he herded cattle he lay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iii</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>One of the happiest memories of his life were his two years of compulsory military training.  He made so excellent a record that he was invited to enter an officers' training school; but this much-coveted opportunity was denied him by his father, and he was forced to return home and work.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Then came the great storm of 1841.  All over Switzerland houses were shattered, barns destroyed, trees uprooted, farms demolished.  Rehabilitating his father's lands afforded Heinrich an invaluable lesson in agriculture.  It was followed by his mother's fatal illness; for weeks he nursed her with the utmost tenderness, and was inconsolable when the end came.  As he was twenty-one he inherited his share of the maternal estate and by selling some of this property, funds for a journey could be raised.  He discussed the matter with his father, but the elder Lienhard bitterly opposed his son's desire to go to America, however, and the young man hesitated to leave without his consent.  An uncle interceded in his behalf and the Swiss farmer, after a stormy scene, was finally reconciled to his departure.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Heinrich Lienhard sailed for America on the three-masted schooner, <HI REND="italics">Narragansett</HI>
078.sgm:, from Havre on September 18, 1843.  Disembarking at New Orleans, he took a river boat to St. Louis where he sold his feather mattress "without difficulty for five cents at an auction" and started out to look for work.  Many Swiss emigrants had settled on fertile farms at Highland, in southern Illinois, a rich dairy country, often called New Helvetia; Lienhard joined them and found employment.  The work was hard, the hours long, and the compensation meager; he found the life extremely irksome.  In 1845, when he heard that government land was being thrown open to settlers at $1.25 an acre, he traveled up the Mississippi as far as St. Paul, and traded with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>In those days St. Louis was one of the connecting links with the Pacific Coast, and it was there that Lienhard met two old Galena acquaintances, Heinrich Thomen and Jacob Rippstein, who had just returned from visiting the rich lands of Oregon and California.  During a friendly reunion they talked enthusiastically about the famous Swiss emigrant, Captain Sutter, and described the great fort he was building on the fertile banks of the Sacramento River.</P>
078.sgm:<P>They discussed going west together and Lienhard, Thomen, and Rippstein decided to pool their resources for the journey.  Two more European comrades, Valentine Diehl and George Zins, were persuaded to join them.  Meager as were their combined funds, the five men were finally able to earn enough to buy equipment for the trip to the coast.  Their outfit, purchased at St. Louis, consisted of a wagon, two yoke of oxen, and two cows that could be used in case of emergency to pull the wagon.  Equipped with a large supply of meal, a ten-gallon water keg, an assortment of guns, a chest holding knives, forks, and cooking utensils, which was fastened to the end of the wagon, they were ready to cross the plains.</P>
078.sgm:<P>On April 21, 1846, the five travelers loaded their outfit on a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Together with Harlan's party, Lienhard and his Swiss friends left Indian Creek on May 12th.  They followed the well-defined route through Kansas and Nebraska, down the north fork of the Platte to the Indian trading post at Fort Laramie, Wyoming, along the Sweetwater River, and over the South Pass of the Rockies to Fort Bridger in southwestern Wyoming.  Beyond, the trail divided.  One road led west to Oregon, the other south to California.  The latter followed the new Hasting's Cut-Off around Salt Lake and along the Humboldt to the Sierras.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Although Lienhard was prepared for a long journey, he was amazed to find how slowly the emigrants moved.  Almost every day sickness, births, and deaths hampered their progress.  Finally the Swiss group pulled ahead of the main train and traveled on alone.  The crest of the Sierras was reached on October 4th.  The pioneers celebrated their entry into California by singing "Hail Columbia, happy land," unaware that this Mexican land was actually on the verge of becoming American territory.  Following Bear Creek down the slope of the Sierras, they found some naked Indians building an adobe house near the river bank.  Its owner, an English sailor called Johnson, was standing nearby.  At last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Lienhard and Thomen started ahead from Bear Creek on foot, however, leaving their three friends to follow with the wagon.  They reached Sutter's New Helvetia toward the middle of October.  This Sacramento River settlement, humorously known as the Key to California, was the only important trading post in California; it had been founded in 1839 near the confluence of the Feather, American Fork, and Sacramento rivers by Captain John Augustus Sutter on a land grant of eleven leagues given him by the Mexican government, and within seven years had become the most cosmopolitan center in the west.  The fort, a sturdy, crude, adobe structure, built by Indian labor, was four hundred feet long and one hundred and seventy feet wide and was enclosed by thick eighteen-foot walls.  Within were the owner's private offices, a kitchen, dining room, shops, storehouses, and sleeping quarters.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In Lienhard's day Sutter's colony was the haven of the overland traveler.  Its genial Swiss host, whose kindness to strangers in distress was proverbial, extended a warm welcome to all newcomers, irrespective of rank, creed, or nationality.  Shelter, food and work were provided for the needy, and many pioneers remained permanently at the fort or settled in the fertile valleys in the vicinity where men were vitally needed to help tame the wilderness.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Lienhard reached New Helvetia at a crucial moment, for conquest of California by the Americans was in its infancy.  Since spring a state of war had existed between the United States and Mexico, California had been drawn into the conflict, United States troops were moving in and out of Sutter's settlement, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>A congressional act of May 13, 1846, had empowered the President to call for volunteers for the war; by August recruiting was in full force around the fort.  New arrivals, usually penniless, were readily induced to become United States soldiers, and Lienhard's group welcomed this timely opportunity to begin life in the new Paradise.  Since June, Californians had felt the pressure of war.  Ominous movements of United States forces were visible everywhere, for severance of the vast province from its weak parental stem was under way, San Francisco, Sonoma, Monterey, and Sutter's Fort having been taken over in July only a short time before Lienhard reached the coast.  The Californians had not been entirely conquered, however; many sharp skirmishes were still taking place in outlying regions in the north.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Toward the end of the year, the military operations of Stockton and Fre&acute;mont in the south culminated in the battle of San Gabriel near Los Angeles.  It was followed by the Treaty of Cahuenga, signed early in 1847.  The United States was now in possession of California; troops were disbanded, and the exsoldiers began to settle in California.  It was with this changing era that Lienhard was closely associated.  Returning to the fort after the war, he became one of Sutter's most trusted associates and had an opportunity to know the famous pioneer intimately.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When the gold rush swept like an avalanche over California, dramatic changes were inevitable.  New Helvetia was no longer a sober trading fort where trappers, emigrants, soldiers, and Indians congregated; it was transformed into a den of iniquity, a gambling and drinking resort of the lowest order frequented primarily by miners and disorderly ruffians.  Of this transitional era Sutter was the tragic victim.  A man whose emotions were easily aroused, he was the constant target of shysters and confidence men; he had few honest associates <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>As gold poured into the fort, Sutter became the King Midas of California almost overnight.  His wheat and livestock brought fabulous prices, his land became valuable, his mines struck rich deposits.  Years ago, when he had left his family in Switzerland, it was with the intention of sending for them when he had made a place for them in the west.  His eldest son had already joined him; now that wealth had come his way, he was eager to have his wife and younger children near him, too.  As the trip from Switzerland to California by way of Panama was too long and difficult for them to make alone, he decided to send someone to accompany them to the fort.  His eldest son urged him to select his Swiss associate.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Lienhard welcomed the opportunity a trip to Europe would afford him to see his old home again, and on June 20, 1849, he boarded the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm: at San Francisco en route to Switzerland.  For a few days spouting whales enlivened the trip down the coast past San Pedro, so shrouded in fog as to be invisible, and past the squalid little port of San Diego with its palm-fringed shore; later tropical storms, engine trouble, and a leaky ship made the voyage less tranquil.  After twenty-one days the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm: docked at the Isthmus, where passengers were transferred to the east coast and put aboard the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Recovering, Lienhard boarded a ship at Jersey City bound for Liverpool, paying one hundred and twenty-five dollars for his passage, then traveled by train to London, and from Dover to Ostend.  At Cologne he made the picturesque river trip up the Rhine, and upon reaching Basel, he traveled by train and stage to Arth, the small Swiss town where he was to meet the Sutter family.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>His arrival caused a commotion in the village; one glance at his luggage told the innkeeper that this was the man who had come to take the Sutter family to California.  A messenger rushed to convey the glad tidings to Frau Sutter.  She arrived breathless and somewhat frightened, especially after Lienhard placed eight hundred dollars, an overwhelming sum, in her hands.  She hid the money furtively, as if afraid someone would hear of it.  Her children soon joined her and, much to his amusement, quarreled openly in Lienhard's presence.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After making arrangements for the return journey, the traveler visited the parental home near Bilten the following day.  The farm was there, but its occupants were absent; so he stood under his favorite pear tree, looking out at the land he knew so well, and waited.  Soon his father appeared.  Sorrow and age had taken a heavy toll, but the broken old man seemed glad to see his son again.  Then Peter, the eldest brother, and his wife arrived; their greeting was lukewarm.  Only the younger brother, Caspar, recently back from military school, and his sister, Barbara, seemed geniunely happy at his return.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Two weeks later Heinrich Lienhard rejoined the Sutter family and left with his charges in the middle of October for London.  They proved trying traveling companions.  Sudden affluence had made them exacting and haughty; they treated Lienhard rudely, and made themselves as conspicuous as possible on shipboard.  At Liverpool they boarded the Cunarder, <HI REND="italics">Cambria</HI>
078.sgm:, bound for Boston, then traveled by rail to New York and obtained cabins on the <HI REND="italics">Empire</HI>
078.sgm:, due to sail in three weeks for the Isthmus.  Rumors of Sutter's running for the governorship reached their ears en route, and materially increased their feeling of self-esteem, to the chagrin of their modest escort.  Lienhard and the Sutters were among the passengers who sailed from the Isthmus on the steamer, <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm:, on January 1, 1850, for San Francisco.  Mrs. Sutter confidently expected to be greeted as the new governor's wife when she reached the Golden Gate, but she had her first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Upon reaching San Francisco, Lienhard left his party at the hotel and went to Sacramento to find the captain, who came back to the city with him.  The reunion of the Sutter family was a curious one; Sutter and his wife had been separated for more than fifteen years and time had made a breach between them that could never be healed.  The Swiss pioneer had been transformed from a small-town merchant into one of the richest and most prominent men in California.  Mrs. Sutter had become a querulous, overworked woman, prematurely old and bent and worn.  The three Sutter children who accompanied her were unprepossessing in manner, intellect, or appearance.  Tales of their father's prestige and wealth had made them egoists; adjustment to the new life before them proved a difficult task.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The west had changed drastically in the traveler's brief absence.  Gold had made San Francisco a maelstrom of nouveau-riche iniquity; the pastoral age of California had vanished overnight.  Lawlessness, disorder, and the feverish urge to amass vast fortunes had made men demons of energy.  This active new world was abhorrent to Lienhard's tranquil nature.  Above all, peace, quiet, and order were essential to his well-being--the peace of the open country, the silence of vast spaces, and the rule of right, not might; he could not adjust himself to the changing times.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Furthermore, his own relations with Sutter and his eldest son, August, were not so friendly as they had once been.  The older he grew, the more lax Sutter had become until now his pomp, conceit, and lack of punctiliousness in discharging obligations were apparent to everyone.  He seemed less willing to pay what he owed as his debts soared.  When Lienhard returned, the captain and his eldest son were being drawn into an iron ring that was slowly closing in on them by gold-maddened creditors.  With the changing times Lienhard began to lose faith in California.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>He spent some time that spring at Sutter's country seat, Hock Farm, near Marysville, visiting the captain's family and renewing old friendships with early settlers, but up and down the once tranquil banks of the Feather River fresh evidences of Yankee "progress" were apparent everywhere.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Many pioneers regarded 1850 as a year of great promise; cities were being surveyed and laid out, lots were being sold at inflated prices, but the revelry of men going back and forth from the mines had created a world foreign to the old pastoral era Lienhard knew and loved.  Even though fortunes were being made everywhere, most of them were squandered; the mines, the gambling tables, new-town real estate all afforded quick methods of extracting gold from an open-handed populace.  It was the symbol of the age; even life was measured by this metallic yardstick.  Everywhere, but especially in San Francisco, prices rose to fantastic levels, and supplies sold at fabulous prices.  As much as three thousand dollars was asked for lots 25x75 feet near the harbor.  Rentals reached absurd heights; the City Hotel paid thirty thousand dollars a year, and gambling houses a thousand dollars a month.  Owners of buildings often became rich in a day.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Yet the demand for buildings, merchandise, and equipment of all kinds far exceeded the supply, for roads and ships heading west were thronged with travelers.  The mushroom town of San Francisco, with its hundreds of tents, resembled a gay white city at night.  A whirlwind of activity was apparent everywhere; the pounding of hammers and the noise of saws were heard far into the night as men labored to create a metropolis.</P>
078.sgm:<P>From the far corners of the earth travelers thronged to the Golden Gate; Chinese, Peruvians, Mexicans, Frenchmen, Kentuckians, and New Englanders all speaking their own dialects moved in and out of the central plaza, the hub of the city, or through streets often seething with mud.  In every corner of the city naval officers, miners, gamblers, and drunkards crowded the cafes, gambling houses, and saloons; what they spent made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>By the time Lienhard returned from Europe early in 1850, California had become a bewildering, feverish place to live in.  Its contrast to Europe was startling and the Swiss pioneer wanted something more in life than the gold of the west could bring.  He had saved a few thousand dollars; most of it was invested in real estate.  It was a small sum; men often gambled far more than that in a single night.  But with it he could live comfortably for a time in Switzerland.</P>
078.sgm:<P>On July 1, 1850, on the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
078.sgm:<P>There on July 3, 1851, he married Elsbeth Blumer, whom he had known since childhood.  She was a blooming, rosy-cheeked girl, eleven years his junior, who had grown up in Bilten, the ancestral home of his mother's family.  Years ago as children they had attended the same school and church.  The Swiss-Californian bought his bride a palatial eighteen-room home, land-scaped in the English manner, in Kilchberg, a suburb of Zurich, and there for three years the young couple lived a life of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>A few years passed, then the rugged mountaineer strain in Lienhard felt the desire to pioneer once more.  In 1854, he sold his Kilchberg home and, with his wife and the two young children who had been born there, traveled to Madison, Wisconsin.  Two years later, however, Lienhard settled permanently at Nauvoo, Illinois, where he bought two hundred acres of grazing and timber lands, and purchased the house that had been built and occupied for several years by Heber C. Kimball, one of the twelve apostles of the Mormon church.  Here he lived for the next forty-seven years, and it was here that seven of Lienhard's nine children were born and reared in the finest traditions of American citizenship.  It was a gracious, kindly, family circle, one where the value of civic service, education, and religion were stressed.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The children grew up listening to tales of California.  They learned to sing Stephen Foster's famous song, "I came from Alabama, with a banjo on my knee," and other popular ballads of the overland trail.  They learned, too, of the wonders of pioneer life in California.  It made a vivid impression on their memories.  A favorite son, John Henry, begged his father to write his memoirs for his family.  Lienhard had kept a diary in California and this, together with his prodigious memory, furnished the material for his reminiscences.  The work consumed two years, and was completed probably in the year 1870.</P>
078.sgm:<P>His first published contribution to western history, however, appeared fifteen years later, when he was asked to write a brief account of his life in California for the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Weekly Examiner</HI>
078.sgm:<P>One of Lienhard's favorite neighbors, while he was living in Kilchber, had been a professor and scholar, Mr. Lehmann, whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Years passed by.  Meanwhile the elderly Kilchberg professor had acquired enough wealth on which to retire.  One day he wrote Lienhard and asked permission to publish the manuscript his son had enjoyed so much.  It was sent to Switzerland and, in 1898, the completed volume of 318 pages called <HI REND="italics">Californien unmittelbar vor und nach der Entdeckung des Goldes</HI>
078.sgm:<P>The book proved to be somewhat of a disappointment to Lienhard.  Extraordinary liberties had been taken with the manuscript, important sections relating to California had been omitted, and what had been retained had been so heavily expurgated, revised, and rewritten as to bear little resemblance to the original version.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Some three decades after the Swiss pioneer's death on December 19, 1903, interest in the Swiss publication led to a quest for the Lienhard manuscript.  It was discovered in the possession af Lienhard's son, the late Mr. Adam H. Lienhard, of Minneapolis, who generously offered to send it to California for inspection.  It proved to be an extremely long manuscript of 238 folio pages, averaging 5000 words a folio, written in small, old-fashioned German script.  A survey of its contents revealed that Lienhard had unwittingly penned the Pepy's diary of Sutter's Fort, and that valuable information relating to California had not been published.  Here were tales of the leading pioneers of that day, men with all their rugged virtues, crudities, and vices, living and moving in the pastoral age of California, during the Gold Rush, and through the dramatic years that followed.  Indians, the wild life of mountains and forests, pioneer settlements, mushroom cities, the rush of Yankee initiative and energy drowning the halycon age of Mexican-California, all were interwoven in Lienhard's story.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The Swiss pioneer also portrayed the San Francisco of joyous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>One of the charms of Lienhard's record proved to be the curious quality of detachment in his writings; he seemed more like a curious bystander than an active participant in the life of the times.  To him events in early California were a grotesque pageant, enlivened by an endless chain of colorful episodes.  If an almost Germanic passion for minutiae, blunt truth, and outspokenness appeared in his pioneer story, yet in many of his seemingly trivial revelations the web and woof of his day were clearly etched.  It was this meticulous viewpoint, moreover, that made Lienhard's record so revealing, so concise, and so colored with the sham and glamour of the age.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Many sections, however, proved to be of slight historic value and were omitted in the following translation.  Those describing his experiences in Europe and the overland trip were left out, since they contained little information not available in the records of other travelers, lengthy descriptions of animals, of scenery, of flora and fauna, Lienhard's personal feelings and emotions, and minor events of daily life that added nothing to the main narrative were omitted.  All references to men and events that had any bearing on California history were retained in their entirety.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Some liberties were taken with the English translation; cumbersome sentences, some of them half a page long, were broken up for the sake of clarity.  Proper names, which were often written <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>To those who have given aid and advice during the preparation of Lienhard's Reminiscences, I am profoundly grateful.  The laborious work of deciphering the faded German script with the aid of a magnifying glass was largely the work of a young scholar, Miss Harriett Hamilton of Pasadena, who also assisted with the translation.  Members of the Lienhard family have been extremely generous and thoughtful upon all occasions.  Miss Mary C. Lienhard of Highland Park, California, the only one of the Swiss pioneer's nine sons and daughters now alive, supplied family photographs and gave interesting information about her father's life and character.  The present owner of the Lienhard manuscript, Mrs. E. J. Magnuson of Minneapolis, has allowed it be used over a long period.  Dr. William C. Maxwell of Santa Barbara and Dr. Henry R. Wagner of San Marino, kindly read the translation and gave constructive advice.  I am also indebted to Dr. A. L. Kroeber for supplying information about the Sacramento River Indians.  The staff of the Henry E. Huntington Library and Art Gallery, especially Mr. Lindley Bynum and Mr. Herbert Schulz, have rendered valuable assistance.  Miss Ella Danielson of the Marysville Public Library, Miss Mabel R. Gillis of the State Library of Sacramento, and Miss Dorothy C. Huggins of the California Historical Society also kindly supplied information used in editing the volume.  The firm of Langlois and Company of Burgdorf, Switzerland, granted permission to use the rare photograph of Hock Farm published in the <HI REND="italics">Jahrbuch</HI>
078.sgm:<P>MARGUERITE EYER WILBUR,</P>
078.sgm:<P>Pasadena, California,</P>
078.sgm:<P>September, 1941</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CHAPTER CONTENTS</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>Introduction<HSEP>i<LB>CHAPTER I<LB>Sutter's Fort.  Recruiting soldiers.  Captain Sutter's past life.  First settlement on the Sacramento.  Mexican War.  Trip down the Sacramento.  Yerba Buena.  A U. S. warship<HSEP>1<LB>CHAPTER II<LB>With the United States army.  Trip down the Bay.  Mission San Jose&acute;.  Town of San Jose&acute;.  Costumes of Californians.  Captain Hastings.  Captain Weber.  Jim Savage.  Monterey.  Stockton and Fre&acute;mont<HSEP>15<LB>CHAPTER III<LB>My trip up the Sacramento.  Hunting in the forest.  Schwartz's fishery.  Return to Sutter's Fort<HSEP>35<LB>CHAPTER IV<LB>Pioneering at Mimal.  Cordua, Covillaud, Foster, and Nye.  The Yuba mines.  Founding of Marysville.  Pioneer days on the Feather River<HSEP>47<LB>CHAPTER V<LB>Captain Sutter.  A new occupation.  Indian laborers.  Fifield and Huber.  Samuel Brannan's store.  Sutter's wheatfields.  Intimate facts about Sutter.  The slaughterhouse.  Branding<HSEP>67<LB>CHAPTER VI<LB>Visits to native villages.  Founding of Sutterville.  Thievery at the fort.  Indian prisoners.  Nocturnal visitors.  Murder of McKee.  Trial by jury.  Captain Keseberg.  Sutter and Fort Ross.  Trip to Hock Farm.  Taking the census<HSEP>87<LB>CHAPTER VII<LB>Working for Sutter.  Overseer at the fort.  Outlaws in the valley.  Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Sutter</HI>
078.sgm:.  Trip to San Francisco.  Leidesdorff.  Mr. Johns.  Gardening with Sutter<HSEP>101<LB>CHAPTER VIII<LB>Gold at the Fort.  Trip to Sutter's Gardens.  Indian workmen.  Testing gold.  Marshall's secret.  Exodus to the gold fields.  Industries deserted.  Revelry at the fort.  Bachelor's Hall<HSEP>113<LB>CHAPTER IX<LB>At the mines.  Lienhard's mining venture.  Mr. Lick.  Mormon Island.  Methods of securing gold.  Partnership with Sutter.  Willhardt and Muller.  Indian problems<HSEP>129 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xviii</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER X<LB>Searching for new placers.  Holmes and Miller.  Hazards of mining.  Arrival of J. A. Sutter, Jr.  Sutter's vanity.  His hospitality.  Sutterville Mining Company<HSEP>143<LB>CHAPTER XI<LB>Intimate glimpses of Sutter.  Trip to McCoon's Ranch.  Young Sutter.  Horse thieves.  Sacramento City surveyed.  Herding sheep.  Keseberg's story<HSEP>153<LB>CHAPTER XII<LB>Laws and outlaws.  Trial by jury.  Miners' vices.  Sheep thieves.  Major Reading.  Adventurers of Durr.  Sutter's Mexican campaign.  Indian friends and enemies<HSEP>171<LB>CHAPTER XIII<LB>Indian ceremonies.  Murder of an Indian chief.  Native obsequies.  Return to Sacramento.  Investment in Sacramento lot.  Burying gold<HSEP> 185<LB>CHAPTER XIV<LB>Pioneer acquaintances.  Slater.  Shooting of McDowell.  Huggenberger.  Sutter's conviviality.  Urged to run for governor.  Troubles with his son.  Preparation for trip to Europe.  Departure on the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm:<HSEP>197<LB>CHAPTER XV<LB>San Francisco in 1850.  Arrival of the Sutters from Europe.  The Graham House.  Diehl and Lang.  The El Dorado.  Reunion with old friends.  Floods at Sacramento.  The City Hotel.  A business deal.  Life in San Francisco.  General Smith.  Squatter's rights.  Huggenberger's death.  Hock Farm<HSEP>211<LB>CHAPTER XVI<LB>Eliza City.  First buildings.  Speculation in lots.  Young Sutter's investments.  Real estate methods.  Return to Sacramento.  A river romance.  The Eliza Hotel.  Local festivities.  Rivalry of Marysville<HSEP> 227<LB>CHAPTER XVII<LB>Hock Farm.  Indian gardeners.  David Engler.  Eliza Sutter's romance.  Paternal obstacles.  Hock Farm visitors.  The Sutter family.  Pioneer friends.  Attempt to buy a ranch.  The Bader murder.  A river tragedy.  Sacramento gamblers<HSEP>243<LB>CHAPTER XVIII<LB>Last days in California.  Investment in city lots.  Reunion with old friends.  Leaving Sacramento.  San Francisco fire.  SS.  <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
078.sgm:<HSEP>263</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xix</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics"><HSEP>Page</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Heinrich Lienhard<HSEP>Frontispiece</P>
078.sgm:<P>A Page from Lienhard's manuscript<HSEP>Opposite Title Page</P>
078.sgm:<P>Hock Farm, Captain Sutter's residence on the Feather River<HSEP>facing page 94</P>
078.sgm:<P>Lienhard's home in Kilchberg, Switzerland<HSEP>184</P>
078.sgm:<P>Lienhard in his latter years<HSEP>facing page 228</P>
078.sgm:<P>His home in Nauvoo, Illinois<HSEP>facing page 272</P>
078.sgm:<P>Bibliography<HSEP>276</P>
078.sgm:<P>Index<HSEP>278</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>A PIONEER AT</P>
078.sgm:<P>SUTTER'S</P>
078.sgm:<P>FORT</P>
078.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>SUTTER'S FORT</P>
078.sgm:<P>As we approached Sutter's Fort, my companion, Heinrich Thomen,<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and I, tossed our hats into the air and shouted for sheer joy, now that the long overland trip from St. Louis to California, a trip of more than four months' duration, was almost over.  After weeks of plodding over hot dusty plains and scaling the rugged Sierras, it was an immense relief to know that our goal, the fort, was only a few miles away.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<HSEP><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Lienhard calls him Thoman and traveled across the plains with him in 1846.  He worked at the fort and was later a well-known resident of Sacramento and San Francisco.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1a">Folios 1 to 83, describing Lienhard's early life in Switzerland, his trip to America, and experiences traveling overland from Independence, Missouri, to Sutter's Fort in the spring and summer of 1846 have been omitted.  At Johnson's Rancho a few miles from the fort, Lienhard and his Swiss comrades met a U. S. soldier who tried to induce them to sign up as volunteers for the duration of the war being fought against Mexico.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>It was not long before the road swung toward the left and curved past a clump of willows on the bank of the American Fork where I saw some blackberry vines.  Hungry for fresh fruit, I stopped long enough to pick a handful of these luscious berries.  Unfortunately they stained my best suit, which I was wearing in honor of the occasion; it took me a long time and a considerable amount of scrubbing with cold water dipped out of the river to get it clean again.  But the fruit was unbelievably delicious; I never ate better berries while I was in California.  The following year I tried to locate the same bushes, but in some mysterious way they had vanished.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As I rounded a sharp bend in the irregular road, I saw in the distance several cattle corrals; beyond them, not far from the trail, stood a plain, even primitive house where two attractive white women were leaning out of an open wndow, watching us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:approach.  They spoke to us as we drew near, and said the property on which they were living belonged to a Mr. Sinclair,<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">John Sinclair, a Scotsman who came to California in 1839, and was closely associated with Sutter in the founding of New Helvetia.  He served as Sutter's aide in the Micheltorena campaign, and from 1846 to 1849 was alcalde for the entire district of Sacramento.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>There was no ferry across the American Fork, so Thomen and I had to wade the crystal-clear but shallow stream with our bare feet.  We reached the opposite bank without difficulty, where the trail meandered first through marshlands which were often entirely under water when the river overflowed, and then up and across high ground, where a solitary Indian hut stood on a dry knoll near a deep waterhole.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As the road we were walking now curved again, suddenly a commodious adobe structure, whose walls contained large holes that held guns, loomed up near us; directly east of it stood two small corrals and a dry lake which was filled in the spring when the American Fork broke through its banks.  This was where Sutter<ANCHOR ID="n1-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3a">This was Captain John Augustus Sutter, a Swiss emigrant who founded a trading post on the Sacramento in 1839, on the site of Sacramento.  Granted a large tract of land by the Mexican government, he built a fort, attracted settlers of every nationality, tamed the Indians, and established industries.  Prior to the discovery of gold, his main sources of income  were wheat and cattle.  See J. P. Zollinger, <HI REND="italics">Sutter</HI>
078.sgm: (New York 1939) and Erwin G. Gudde, <HI REND="italics">Sutter's Own Story</HI>
078.sgm:<P>A mile or more beyond the river, the trail crossed a small hill; from its crest the massive walls of Sutter's Fort, which its owner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>At that particular moment, however, I was much more interested in meat and bread than in guns.  Food, I was told, was sold in a room directly east of the adobe house.  As I was making some purchases in the fort store, I was accosted by several young men who had recently enlisted in the United States army, not so much from abstract patriotic motives as from the concrete fact that Uncle Sam supplied three square meals a day.  As a result, these young fellows now spent their time urging every new emigrant in from the States to sign up for service.  After considerable argument between us and explanations on their part, I finally enlisted.  With the fresh meat we had bought, Thomen and I prepared supper over a campfire near the fort; each of us devoured an enormous beeksteak, a cut of meat for which California was then famous.  Later we went to the nearby barracks.</P>
078.sgm:<P>This thing of being a member of the United States army was a new experience to me, as you can understand, so I meekly obeyed orders.  After being assigned to one of the companies, I was told to remain at the fort until more volunteers enlisted.  Meanwhile, Thomen left the military post to explore the surrounding countryside.  When he returned, he told me he had met and talked with the famous Captain Sutter, who had regaled him with tales of his wonderful experiences of adventurous pioneering in California.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>During their conversation, Thomen told him all about his own trip west, and of course he mentioned me.  Sutter assured him that I was just the type of man he needed at the fort and added that he would like to make me his overseer in place of a drunken Englishman who was called Smith.<ANCHOR ID="n1-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: Unfortunately, I was not free to accept this offer, having already signed at the request of my friend Rippstein,<ANCHOR ID="n1-5a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-4a">Apparently James Smith, an Englishman who came to California in 1841, and farmed for a time in the valley.  He is often mentioned in the <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-5a">Jacob Rippstein was another bachelor who started across the plains with Lienhard.  He joined Co. F Cal. Battalion in California, and later became a farmer in Yuba County.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I was eager to meet my distinguished countryman.  For years all the newspapers in the United States had been full of stories about him; the amazing tales of his adventures were familiar to everyone.  The noted Sutter, according to reports, had been a captain in the Swiss guards, and had fought under Napoleon.  He had made the same favorable impression on Thomen that he did on every traveler who came to the fort, and my friend was so loud in his praises of his affable ways, fine appearance, and generosity, that he seemed almost superhuman.  I had been brought up to believe that "all is not gold that glistens," and I began to wonder just what Sutter was actually like under his suave exterior.</P>
078.sgm:<P>No sooner had Thomen departed than I saw a man who resembled his description of the Swiss captain come out of the large house and walk over toward one of the small rooms that lined the inner walls of the fort.  He looked around and saw me; I was somewhat bashful, but finally decided to go up and introduce myself.  I was delighted to find that it was Sutter himself, who, when he heard that I was the young man Thomen had told him about, was extremely cordial, and seemed genuinely disappointed when I said I could not accept his offer of employment because I had joined the army.  Sutter made me promise, however, that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>After that we talked together for a long time.  The captain reviewed the main events of his past life at considerable length; as I listened to his pithy conversation, to his tales so highly colored with romance and adventure, I was spellbound.  He was an incredibly entertaining talker, and for the time being at least, I believed it all, in spite of myself.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Among other things, he told me his father, who had been born in Baden, Germany, had been a merchant in Basel, Switzerland, where he, too, had been in business.  He also confided in me that it was there that he met and married Annette Dupont,<ANCHOR ID="n1-6">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who lived in a little Swiss village called Burgdorf, and that several sons and one daughter were born to them.  Then in 1833, when he was still in his early thirties, he left home and came to America.  When I asked him why he had not stayed in Switzerland with them, he said he had been obliged to make a change for political reasons.<ANCHOR ID="n1-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-6">Obviously an error.  His wife was Anna Dubeld, of Burgdorf, whom he married on October 24, 1826.  See Zollinger, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-7">Sutter left Switzerland for financial reasons, primarily inability to pay his creditors.  Bankruptcy charges were filed against him and a warrant for his arrest issued by the Chief of Police at Berne on June 12, 1834.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>He went on to say that after opening a store in Westport, Missouri, he traded with merchants living in Santa Fe, New Mexico, making two trips there himself.  After closing out his business in that Missouri town, he joined a party of emigrants who were leaving just then for Oregon.  Upon reaching the Pacific Coast, young Sutter made friends with the crew of a ship from Sitka, a furtrading post owned by a Russian company and when he told them he was an ex-captain of the Swiss guards, they were so favorably impressed that they invited him to accompany them when their ship left for the north.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The dreary, fog-bound town of Sitka was a disappointment to Sutter; he left on the first vessel sailing for the balmy land of Honolulu.  After eight pleasant, leisurely months in the Hawaiian Islands, he crossed the Pacific in a small bark with a group of native men and women called Kanakas, and landed at the Mexican port of Mazatlan.<ANCHOR ID="n1-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-8">Sutter apparently did not go to Mazatlan but to San Francisco, then to Monterey.  He arrived on July 2, remained there three days, returned to San Francisco, and on August 1 started up the Sacramento.  Word did not reach California until August that Alvarado had been appointed governor.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>There he met Sen&tilde;or Juan Alvarado,<ANCHOR ID="n1-9">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-9">Juan B. Alvarado was another prominent citizen of Monterey whose political career culminated in 1839 in the governorship.  Embroiled in endless political uprisings, he led the revolt that put Pio Pico in power.  Sutter appears to have met him in Monterey, not Mazatlan.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
078.sgm:, (7 vols., San Francisco, 1884) <HI REND="italics">V. pasim;</HI>
078.sgm: and the excellent account in Hittell, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
078.sgm:<P>In colorful language Sutter described how he and his Kanakas placed what equipment and supplies they needed in several small boats, crossed the bay toward the entrance to the Sacramento, located its mouth, sailed up to its branch, the American Fork, and ascended it for a short distance.  It was there on high open ground <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter described in picturesque language the timidity of the natives, whose settlements dotted the banks of the rivers, and how slyly they watched him from the distance, refusing to come near.  To gain their confidence, he took gay-colored handkerchiefs, bags of Hawaiian sugar, and glass beads and left them near their camps where they could not fail to find them.  In this way the resourceful captain gained the Indians' confidence and friendship; soon crowds of them appeared at his headquarters, now actually begging for gifts.  Day after day, the dusky visitors grew more numerous, and by giving them presents for running errands it was not long before they were even bribed to work.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I also learned all about the local Indian feuds from my new friend, the captain.  He warned me that the Sacramento Indians and the Bushumnes<ANCHOR ID="n1-10">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-10">Bushney in the MS.  They were also known as the Pujuni.  See H. H. Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">Native Races</HI>
078.sgm:<P>It was from the captain's lips that I found out that an entire year had actually elapsed before he made friends with the Bushumnes; they were afraid not only of him, but also of the Sacramento Indians loitering near the camp.  Finally Sutter won the confidence of these wild men and eventually he persuaded them to visit his quarters and he finally even tried to settle their inter-tribal feuds.  In this his efforts were most successful; these particular Indians subsequently proved to be his most capable workers.  As white men, mainly adventurers, drunken sailors, and hunters, gradually settled along the Sacramento, they trained the natives <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I believe it was a year or so after the settlement was started that Sutter first began work on the fort.  It was built, not on the banks of the American Fork, but one-half mile south on a slight elevation overlooking a deep slough filled at high tide by water from the river that poured in through a deep channel.  The roof was of tule, a rank marsh reed that grows abundantly in the vicinity; although these roofs can be made watertight, yet they dry out so rapidly in warm weather that even a tiny spark can start a serious fire.  After the first structure burned down, Sutter built a second fort with native labor.  Its new roof was now covered with substantial wooden shingles; they were much less inflammable than were the native grasses.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The Indians were also trained with some effort to handle in a military way the muskets Sutter owned, and at one time he had a large number of men under arms.  I recall that when the Spanish-Californians wanted to break away from Mexico and the home government refused to release them, Mexican troops led by a general called Micheltorena<ANCHOR ID="n1-11">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-11">MecKalterenat in the MS.  Manuel Micheltorena was a brigadier-general, governor, and for a time comandante-general of California whom Sutter and many Americans supported in the revolt of 1845.  His defeat lost him the governorship, and contributed to the loss of California to American forces.  See Hittell, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Having backed the general, Sutter, who had trained two hundred Indians and twenty American and English soldiers, marched boldly out from the fort, supported by two old cannon which had not been fired for eleven years at least.  But the enemy surrounded and captured the valiant captain.  He was finally paroled and allowed to return to the fort with his men.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Several years later Jacob Durr<ANCHOR ID="n1-12">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: of Pratteln, who had lived in Basel for several years, told me all about Sutter and the way he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-12">Possibly Charles C. Burr, a member of the Mormon Colony at the fort.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I was at the fort waiting for our newly-recruited company to organize and drill, when my old friends Kyburz,<ANCHOR ID="n1-13">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: Rippstein and Zins,<ANCHOR ID="n1-14">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: with whom I had left St. Louis, drove in with our community outfit.  After a long discussion we agreed to dispose of our jointly-owned oxen and wagon to Captain Sutter.  Thomen and Rippstein decided to take their share of the proceeds in land on the Feather River rather than in cash.  Our finances were still somewhat involved, however, because Zins and I still owed the other members of our group small sums for expenses incurred months before.  My indebtedness to Thomen amounted to $4.30; I also owed Diehl<ANCHOR ID="n1-15">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-13">Samuel E. Kyburz or Kyburg, who came overland in 1846 from Wisconsin with his wife and his brothers.  He was employed as superintendent at Sutter's Fort, joined the gold rush, and then ran a hotel at Sacramento.  He is often mentioned in the <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-14">George Zinns, or Zins, a German from Lorraine who traveled overland in Lienhard's wagon.  He built one of the first brick houses in Sacramento and manufactured bricks.  His last days were spent on a ranch near Oakland where he died in 1885.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-15">Valentine Diel, or Diehl, another comrade who traveled in the same wagon with Lienhard in the Hoppe and Harlan party.  He joined Co. F Cal. Battalion and after the war became a grocer in San Francisco.  His last years were spent farming near Mayfield.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>What powder and shot were left after the equipment was sold was divided among us and the ties that had bound us together for six months were severed.  We had weathered the long journey across the plains without mishap; other groups which had left <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Thomen, my inseparable companion on the trail, refused to join the army when I did, and decided to strike out for himself, while I slaved for Uncle Sam.  Leaving him was like parting from a member of my own family.  I had no time to be lonesome or homesick, however; every day new volunteers joined the army as soon as they reached the fort.  With emigrants, traders, soldiers, and Indians moving in and out of the trading post, there was a constant atmosphere of bustle and excitement about the place.  It was noisy enough during the day; but at night the din made by Indian gamblers who grew so excited as the game they were playing progressed, that they shrieked with laughter, made sleep impossible.  Many a night it would have given me the utmost pleasure to have gone out, stick in hand, and thrashed the hide off these nocturnal disturbers of the peace.  The idea did not occur to me then that within two years I should even enjoy listening to natives laughing.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Innumerable delays in mobilizing and moving the United States volunteers annoyed me as much as it did the other soldiers, but finally our captain received word that Sutter's small two-masted schooner<ANCHOR ID="n1-16">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: was due to arrive in a few days, and that when more volunteers had enlisted we could depart.  When I finally went aboard the small fore-and-aft rigged vessel, I discovered she was not meant to accommodate even the thirty men who were ready to embark; but there was nothing for us to do but make the best of it.<ANCHOR ID="n1-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-16">Sutter's schooner was forty tons burden.  It had been purchased from the Russians and for years was the only boat on the river.  John Yates, an English sailor, managed it.  He has left a manuscript account of his experiences called <HI REND="italics">A Sketch of a Journey to the Sacramento Valley in '42</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3b">Sections of folios 84 and 85, describing the trip mad by the volunteers down the Sacramento River toward San Francisco, have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I recall the trip as clearly as if it had been yesterday.  Eight miles below the fort the boat stopped near a small house where passengers and crew landed, made a fire, and then baked and ate a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:fat California salmon; it was the first time I had ever tasted this fresh, pinkish meat, and although it was cooked only in hot ashes, yet it provided a gala repast.  I do not know who paid for the fish, but I had been invited to the feast and accepted with alacrity.  The owner of the house--hut would be a better name for it--was a Dutchman called Schwartz,<ANCHOR ID="n1-17">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-17">John L. Schwartz was a prominent Dutch emigrant who came west in the Bartleson party.  In 1845 he received a land grant on the Sacramento known as Nueva Flandria, where he maintained a fishing station.  See Edwin Bryant.  <HI REND="italics">What I Saw in California</HI>
078.sgm:<P>After we had finished supper, the first fall rains, that announce the approach of winter in California, began to pour down.  Storms in the valley meant snow in the mountains and cold weather everywhere.  We left Schwartz's palatial villa, set in a secluded jungle retreat inhabited mainly by wolves and gray bears, and started on down the river, in our over-crowded schooner.<ANCHOR ID="n1-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-4b">Omission of sections in folios 84 and 85 containing a length description of the Sacramento.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I enjoyed every moment of the trip down the bay, especially skirting famous Angel Island.  It was small and high; most of it appeared to be covered with grass which provided food for wild cattle.  A few trees were also visible.  The water was so deep all around the island that even a large ship could pass only a short distance away.  Beyond, the channel was considerably wider and eventually merged into San Francico Bay which opens on the west into the Pacific.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>As our ship crossed the bay headed for the port of San Francisco some six or seven miles distant, I saw another small island, also high and rocky, that appeared to be blocking its entrance.  This was Bird, or Alcatraz Island, named from the gulls that came in from the sea and roosted there at night.  At this time Californians called what is now the city of San Francisco, the town of Yerba Buena, the name of an herb from which the early settlers often made tea.  On the east, two or three miles beyond, rose the second largest island in the bay, Goat Island, which seemed to be covered with a mass of underbrush.</P>
078.sgm:<P>At that time, ships anchored in a semi-circular bay protected by a spit of land that separated it from the ocean on the west.  The village itself sprawled between the base of Telegraph Hill and Clark's Point<ANCHOR ID="n1-18">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: on the south side of the bay; the waterfront was approximately a mile wide and was covered with low, dwarf oak, underbrush, and some scattered buildings.  The first time I saw it, Yerba Buena<ANCHOR ID="n1-19">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: had fewer than two hundred inhabitants; I counted about fifty houses from the meanest hut to the most pretentious buildings.  But even the best ones were poor, mediocre affairs.  The plaza, or public square, if it could be dignified by such a title, occupied the center of the city; facing it stood a large, one-story adobe building covered with shingles and surrounded by a colonnade that proved to be the <HI REND="italics">cabildo</HI>
078.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n1-20">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-18">Punta del Embarcadero, or Clark's Point, was at the foot of Clay Street, at what is now the corner of Broadway and Battery streets.  It was named for William A. Clark who built a small wharf in 1847 at the point.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-19">Yerba Buena's population was about 150 persons.  There were only 23 buildings in the settlement, according to most authorities.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-20">The old customhouse, or <HI REND="italics">cabildo</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">U. S. Portsmouth</HI>
078.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n1-21">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: was lying at anchor in the harbor; Captain Montgomery had charge of her.  This magnificent vessel made an impressive picture guarding the waterfront with her great shining guns.  A few days after reaching the primitive Spanish village, I was taken aboard the <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
078.sgm: for a short visit with the other troops.  It was the first warship that I was ever on.  Aboard were some two hundred and fifty officers, marines, and sailors; all of them were strong, active young men.  I was surprised to find how neat and clean the American ship was kept; the decks were thoroughly scrubbed and the mattresses carefully aired every day.<ANCHOR ID="n1-5b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-21">In addition to the <HI REND="italics">U. S. Portsmouth</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-5b">Sections of folio 86 describing a sailor's life on the <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
078.sgm:<P>A Shoshonean Indian<ANCHOR ID="n1-22">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-22">The Shoshone or Snake Indians lived near the South Pass of the Rockies and traded at Fort Bridger and Fort Hall.  One of the most powerful tribes west of the Rockies, they were unusually friendly to travelers.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I remained at least a week in San Francisco with my regiment; during that time, however, none of the volunteers was allowed to leave town.  I never understood the reason for this drastic order, unless the enemy was believed to be lurking nearby, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:perhaps in the hills that stretched west and northwest, or behind the sand dunes or down in the small, fertile valleys on the south.  Most of the surrounding country was covered with a dense growth of scrub oak and underbrush, the haunt of wolves who crept up near the houses and howled night after night.  A trail led from Yerba Buena southwest to Misssion Dolores;<ANCHOR ID="n1-23">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-23">Einsamkeit, or loneliness, in the MS.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>All over the little town preparations for war were visible.  A solitary cannon had been placed on the roof of one of the small wooden shacks in the city; several soldiers were guarding it.  Other men were sent out to stand watch near the entrance to the bay at a large, low building called the presidio,<ANCHOR ID="n1-24">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-24">The presidio had been founded on March 28, 1776, by Juan Bautista de Anza, and was one of the four Spanish forts in Alta California.  It contained barracks, officers' quarters, a church,and a supply house.  The present military reservation near Battery Point corresponds roughly to the old Spanish boundaries.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>WITH THE UNITED STATES ARMY</P>
078.sgm:<P>So uninteresting was the drab town of Yerba Buena that I was glad when orders were finally issued to our company to move down the bay.  The day I left, a stiff northwest wind was blowing; the air drifting in off the Pacific was wonderfully fresh and invigorating.  Our party, in charge of a petty officer, was placed aboard two small boats belonging to the <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Our sailors said that two missions, Santa Clara and San Jose&acute;,<ANCHOR ID="n2-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: lay a few miles inland from the bay.  The former was on the outskirts of a small town called San Jose&acute; the extensive buildings and gardens of the latter, although it had the same name as the town, were not anywhere near it, but stood near the extreme southern tip of the body of water, which is some fifty miles in length at its base.  Although we sailed briskly along that day, we did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1a">Mission San Jose&acute;, situated about 15 miles northeast of the town of San Jose&acute;, was founded in June, 1797. Bryant <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Upon rising the following morning, I found that the view was obscured by a dense fog.  There was considerable commotion on shipboard; several members of the crew had succeeded in finding enough whiskey to get drunk on the night before, and one of them was determined to pick a fight before breakfast.  Although sailors were not supposed to drink more than a small amount of alcoholic liquor, yet they often took too much and had to be punished by twelve lashes from a whip called the cat-tail on their naked backs.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After breakfast I joined the soldiers who were told to leave the boats and march across flat, open country to the village of San Jose&acute;.<ANCHOR ID="n2-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: Upon my arrival, I found a group of recruits, most of them emigrants who, like ourselves, had recently reached California, waiting at army headquarters.  San Jose&acute; had at least twice as many volunteers as San Francisco, a fact that seemed odd.  Among them was the Mr. Hastings<ANCHOR ID="n2-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2a">The population of San Jose&acute; de Guadalupe was six hundred.  See Bryant, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3a">Lanford W. Hastings was an Ohio lawyer who came to California in 1843.  Upon his return to the east he lectured extensively and published an <HI REND="italics">Emigrant's Guide</HI>
078.sgm:, which was popular with overland travelers.  He was influential in bringing large numbers of emigrants to California.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">Cal</HI>
078.sgm:<P>At San Jose&acute;, I spent several days waiting for more soldiers to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The most substantial houses in the village were built of adobe with tile or shingle roofs; the windows had iron bars but no glass.  Across the front of the houses extended porches, or verandas.  Some of the larger houses had orchards in the rear where fig, olive, quince, pear, and apple trees, and what were known as mission grapes, were growing.  I was disappointed to hear that the fruit had already been picked.</P>
078.sgm:<P>On a slight elevation on one side of the town I noticed a simple adobe church.<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: At the point where San Jose&acute; had been built the flat valley was several miles broad; further west the country stretching toward the coast had only one important elevation where the Almaden quicksilver mines<ANCHOR ID="n2-5a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">The barn-like church stood near the center of the town.  He does not describe the more interesting Santa Clara Mission some three miles away.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-5a">The New Almaden was the largest quicksilver mine in California.  It was discovered in 1845 in the mountains south of San Jose&acute;</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>From what I observed, the pure-blooded Spanish settlers of California seemed unusually handsome.  Most of them were slender, with an erect, proud carriage, dusky complexions and dark, curly hair.  A Californian was never more attractive than when he was riding a swift horse equipped with an elaborate saddle and bridle; I always enjoyed watching one of these dashing gentlemen ride by.  He usually wore a pair of trousers trimmed with velvet, which were split on the outside as far as the knee to show his fine white underdrawers, and trimmed with elaborate buttons, often made of pure silver.  Tied around his waist, a long red sash, fringed on both ends, was allowed to hang down on the side.  On his feet were shoes made of soft, dressed leather.  His shirt was usually delicately embroidered and immaculate; it was embellished by a gay silk handkerchief, tied loosely around his neck.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>To complete his costume a coat, made of fine blue cloth trimmed with black velvet and fancy buttons was put on over his shirt; on his head he wore a broad, round felt hat often tipped over the forehead or on the side, giving the appearance of being too small for its wearer.  Insecure as it seemed, it was carefully adjusted at a coquettish angle; I noticed, however, that it was held in place by a chin band, which was fastened securely to the hat.  On cold days the Spaniard added a serape, or blanket with a hole in the middle, through which he placed his head.  This cloak-like wrap completely covered his body but left his arms and legs free.  I was impressed by the fine cloth that these velvet-trimmed garments were made of.  Another striking feature of a Spaniard's costume was the spurs, often made of silver, on his shoes and his shoes and his elaborate leggings which were heavily embroidered; they were only used when he was on horseback.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Anyone dressed in these rich garments was called a caballero, I was told, and always had at his disposal several lively race horses, which he mounted with dexterity and grace, and that he never rode anywhere without a cigar or cigarette in his mouth, or encouraging his proud and fiery horse to prance back and forth, while he bowed courteously and graciously, especially toward any beautiful sen&tilde;oritas nearby.  When he touched the horse's flank with his spurs and galloped away, with bells tinkling musically to the rhythm of his gait, his serape flapped in the breeze.  I always enjoyed watching these exhibitions of horsemanship; they afforded me an endless source of amusement.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When the time came to elect a captain, my old friend Mr. Hastings, as I have said, was chosen; and a slender American who, unfortunately, did not understand what his duties were, was made lieutenant rather than Jim Savage,<ANCHOR ID="n2-6a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: whom I suggested, not because I had any desire to see him elected, for I knew he was absolutely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-6a">James D. Savage who served in Co. F, Cal. Battalion was an ex-trapper and mountaineer, who became wealthy after gold was discovered.  He was an uncouth character, who made many friends and many enemies.  He is believed to have discovered Yosemite Valley.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>My company remained in San Jose&acute; only long enough to supply itself with horses, saddles, and bridles.  I recall one day when I saw several of our men, including Jim, saddling their horses, and thinking they intended to take a trip to see the surrounding country, I decided to join them.  As we were about to start, I asked them where they were going.  "Any place," was the reply, "where we can find some horses, bridles, and spurs."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Oh, a plundering trip?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes, we're going out to get what we need."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Very well, I'm not going with you.  I didn't join the army to steal."</P>
078.sgm:<P>When Jim and his friends began to laugh, I knew I was not the kind of man they needed.  They were more than glad not to take me, and for my part I was quite willing to stay behind.  After electing officers for our company, which had about seventy men in it, I was chosen to stand the first watch during the night near the house where our men had been assigned quarters.  Unfortunately, we had not arranged for a password to be used when anyone approached.  While it was still light, no one but men whom I knew and recognized as members of our company came up; but at dusk I saw several men loitering near the house.  So I called, "Who's there?"  They refused to answer, and, when they failed to reply to my second call, I threatened to fire.  Thereupon they responded at once, for they expected me to shoot, as I would have done had they not answered.  Unfortunately, I could not ask for a password, for the officer had not given me one.  But I found out that these men belonged to our company, and so I let them pass.</P>
078.sgm:<P>By the time they had disappeared another soldier came up and asked for the password; when I could not give one, he threatened to have me arrested, saying I should not allow anyone <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Two members of the Shoshonean tribe joined the army; they were father and son, I believe.  They seemed to enjoy being together, and talked incessantly in strange, subdued whispers interspersed from time to time with half-stifled bursts of laughter.  In this new environment, they seemed exuberantly happy, and kept chattering far into the night, much to the annoyance of our men, who were so disturbed by these strange sounds that they were unable to sleep, and finally called out in loud tones to them to keep still.  As the Indians did not understand English very well, they failed to realize what these calls meant; they continued to laugh and whisper in the same weird way until I was afraid some of the Americans might hit them.  To avoid trouble, I got up from my bed, which was near the noisy Indians, went over, shook them, and attempted, so far as the darkness of the night would permit, to make them understand by signs that the other men in the room needed sleep, had been kept awake by their whispers, and were very angry.  The Indians stopped talking, and within a short time everyone in the room, from the sounds of the regular breathing, was asleep.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Another Indian called Sam was with us; by comparison with the other two ragged members of his tribe in my company, he seemed quite superior.  But before leaving San Jose&acute;, Shoshonean Sam nearly had a serious adventure one day when he had gone off by himself to see the country.  Because of his costume, he was readily identified by local residents as belonging to our company, and, if I understood his sign-language correctly, someone tried to remove the sailor's blouse he had on.  He protested with his fists; in the tussle several buttons were torn off, which made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>For several days before we started to march I had not been feeling well; finally I told Captain Hastings I was too ill to consider riding, but the captain did not appear at all interested in the state of my health.  Since he seemed to think I was faking, I saddled my horse, and tied a small bundle that consisted of several shirts, my shaving equipment, a notebook, and some small personal belongings, behind my saddle, and on top of this pile placed my buffalo skin which served for a bed.  Although my mare was not fast, yet she was a good, obedient animal, one apparently that had been trained to catch cattle.  Grayish-brown in color, for a California horse she was a pretty, attractive, graceful little animal.  My saddle, reins, and halter were plain but strong; spurs were superfluous with my well-trained horse.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The command to mount having been given, our troops left San Jose&acute; one fine afternoon in November, 1846.  We traveled in double file, Rippstein and I being together.  That first afternoon we rode about twelve miles, then stopped near a rancho, or farmhouse, to camp for the night, where the ranchero killed a steer in our honor, and soon steaks were roasting on spits over campfires.  The ranch house was situated on the west side of a small knoll, and nearby I saw for the first time in California, vines, supported by trellises, whose heavy trunks were about two and one-half feet high.  All shoots had been removed, and the plants looked more like tiny trees than grapevines.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Nearby a German called Captain Weber,<ANCHOR ID="n2-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who was supposed to have charge of twenty men, was camping, but there were only two or three men with him.  Hastings and Weber talked together for a long time, and the latter said he did not want to fight for Fre&acute;mont,<ANCHOR ID="n2-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-7">Charles M. Weber, a German who came to California from New Orleans in 1836.  He was a friend of Sutter and raised a company of foreign volunteers at the fort.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-8">John Charles Fre&acute;mont came to California in 1844 after an interesting career as explorer in the west.  In 1846 he became involved in the war.  His campaigning included acts that were sternly censured by Congress and led to a trial.  One of the most famous men in the west, Fre&acute;mont has been the subject of eulogy and condemnation.  See his <HI REND="italics">Report of the Exploring Expedition in 1843-1844</HI>
078.sgm:, (Washington, 1845); and Allan Nevins, <HI REND="italics">Fre&acute;mont</HI>
078.sgm:<P>That night my headache and cold chills returned and seemed much worse than they had before; my appetite was poor, and I did not sleep soundly, even though the weather was mild and pleasant.  By morning I was no better.  Our route now led south through a flat, beautiful valley where the soil seemed extremely rich.  The country was comparatively open.  Occasionally evergreen oaks were visible; but I felt so ill all day long that I scarcely noticed what was going on.  Finally I camped with the troops on the right side of the valley, which was quite wide at this point, far away from the foothills of the coastal range near an abandoned house that had a spring of excellent water nearby.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Later that day I felt considerably worse; my headache increased, I had one chill after another, I could not eat anything, and was able to drink only a little weak tea.  After a sleepless night I was tired and exhausted by morning; on breaking camp I rode as usual with Rippstein.  In the afternoon several ranchos were visible in the distance toward our right.  Undoubtedly they contained houses, saddles, bridles, and merchandise; I noticed that Jim Savage's eyes shone with an acquisitive gleam when he looked that way.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Convinced that some of these things might prove useful, Captain Hastings decided to send six men to see what they could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The more I thought about it, the angrier I became.  I had enrolled as a volunteer with the expectation of fighting the Spaniards if necessary, but I had not joined the army to become a thief.  The captain, realizing that he had not made a wise selection when he appointed me, said I did not need to go, and asked another man to take my place.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The road wound toward the right where the valley seemed to divide into two sections off toward the southwest and southeast.  After fording two small streams,--the smallest, the Pajaro, which was almost dry, flowed west into the bay of Monterey,--the massive buildings of Mission San Juan<ANCHOR ID="n2-9">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: came into view on a small slope ahead.  Finally the village was reached.  I should have enjoyed inspecting the buildings and the orchards on the slopes below, but I was so ill I could scarcely see.  Carrying their loot, the party of six soon rejoined us.  Jim Savage considered himself a hero; he bragged of how he had taken some spurs and bridle from an old woman who had hidden them under her skirt.  Her conduct, he explained, convinced him she was trying to conceal something valuable.  Although most of our men slept outdoors, I spread my buffalo skin in a large room not far from the main church.  That day I had had nothing to eat and only some weak <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-9">Mission San Juan Bautista was founded on June 11, 1797, by Father Lasuen.  See Zephyrin Engelhardt, <HI REND="italics">Mission San Juan Bautista</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Finally the sun rose; the day's activities now began.  The men waked, dressed, and prepared breakfast, chatting and singing merrily.  As I could barely rise from my bed, I begged to be left behind.  But Captain Hastings was afraid I might be murdered when our troops left, because Spanish-Californians considered us enemies and would not hesitate to kill any soldiers they met.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When the men were about to leave, I overheard an inmate of the mission tell Captain Hastings that someone had broken into the church the night before and carried off several valuable gold and silver vessels.  Every volunteer who had been camping in the vicinity was suspected of the theft; a young American, whom I felt was innocent, but whose conduct had not been above reproach, was generally believed to be the guilty man.  While Captain Hastings made a speech condemning such conduct, yet he would have been wiser had he made an effort to have found the culprit.  His speech ended the affair; I do not think the residents of the mission were entirely satisfied with his attitude, however.  My personal belief was that the notorious Jim was the real thief.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Orders to march having been given, I took my usual place beside Rippstein.  But the pains in my head and back were so acute that I could not sit erect on my horse, and when our company crossed the steep range of mountains that separate the San Joaquin Valley from the Salinas plains, I thought I should collapse.  When we reached the Salinas Valley that afternoon, the end of my endurance had been reached; I left my place, slid off the horse, and stretched out on the dry ground.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Noticing my weakness, Captain Hastings, who had brought up the rear with the extra horses, came over and urged me not to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I was riding along at a slow pace some distance behind the rest of the company when I heard the sound of hundreds of stampeded horses behind, and the voices of men calling to them.  Unable to distinguish what they were saying, I thought they were merely warning me to move aside, so I prodded my horse to a gallop.  Suddenly a herd of half-wild California cattle crossed the road just ahead; my horse thought I wanted to catch one of these animals, and when I urged her to go on she began to gallop and soon caught up with a cow.  That morning I had given my bridle to a young man whose horse was still too wild and unbroken to manage, knowing my own horse could be handled without it.  But when the mare started after the cow, I found I did not have enough strength to compel the horse to stay away from the herd.  My cap fell off, I had to drop my gun, and the ground was so rough and full of holes in certain places that my buffalo hide fell off the saddle and it was some time before I realized it had disappeared.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1b">Sections of folios 89 to 92 giving a verbose account of this episode, a description of the ride to Monterey, and an attack of typhoid fever, have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>At last I caught up with our troops and went on to Monterey where I spent some time in the hospital with a severe case of typhoid fever.  One day after I had recovered and while Captain Maddox,<ANCHOR ID="n2-10">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who had charge of another company, was away with most of the troops, a report spread that the Spaniards were somewhere nearby in the mountains, and were preparing to attack.  Drums sounded; we got ready to put up a stiff defense.  The iron cannon was loaded with a heavy charge of powder and a small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:bag of grapeshot, and placed in the middle of the street between the buildings used by the troops.  Patrols were stationed everywhere and ordered to report anything that seemed suspicious.  The rumor proved to be false, fortunately, for a small number of men could have captured the village.  Our only protection on one side of the street was a low wooden wall that stretched from house to house; the other side, which was entirely open, was guarded by our solitary cannon.<ANCHOR ID="n2-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-10">William A. T. Maddox, a lieutenant of marines in the U.S.N., who took part in the war at Los Angeles.  Upon returning to Monterey he was made commander of the garrison.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2b">Omission in folios 92 and 93, describing marine life found in the waters of Monterey Bay.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Before telling more about my experiences at Monterey, let me describe the town.  During the time California belonged to Mexico, Monterey was the official residence of the governors.  Its buildings, many of them low and attractive, were built of adobe, and the majority usually covered with shingles.  Several were two stories high, with balconies and windows facing the main street.  I do not recall having seen glass windows anywhere.  Behind the main buildings were smaller structures.  Frequently these rear edifices were surrounded by high adobe walls enclosing pasturage in which cattle grazed; others had fine gardens filled, so I was told, with semi-tropical fruit trees, although I never had an opportunity to see them.  None of these secondary buildings could be termed attractive; they seemed strong and well-built, however, and appeared to reflect the taste of their owners.  The most substantial houses were on a winding street that stretched from the north end of the village near the landing place, east and southeast as far as an uninteresting adobe church.  A second but less important street paralleled the main thoroughfare at a slightly higher elevation; on it were some fairly good houses surrounded by high walls.  Above and below these streets were many scattered buildings, both large and small.  The majority were on high ground toward the west, rather than the lower area on the east.</P>
078.sgm:<P>On a small hill a short distance northeast of the town stood <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The inhabitants of Monterey appeared to be either Spaniards of pure descent, Indians, or half-breeds.  The former were a graceful, good-looking race, and carried themselves in a stately manner.  The men were inclined to be dark, with curly hair and heavy beards.  The sen&tilde;oras and sen&tilde;oritas of Monterey were extremely attractive; many were beautiful with a healthful, ruddy glow in their cheeks, and with dark tresses.  They seemed lively, graceful, natural, and unaffected, and those I watched dancing were adept at this art, being vivacious and merry without violating the rules of decorum.</P>
078.sgm:<P>While I was staying at Monterey, the American officers gave a dance in one of the large rooms where we were quartered; ten of these dashing sen&tilde;oritas attended.  In addition to cotillons and quadrilles, several waltzes were played.  From the sidelines I watched the sen&tilde;oritas who were having endless trouble managing their partners.  Many of the soldiers had never waltzed before and were about as agile as bears.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One of the men, Captain Grayson,<ANCHOR ID="n2-11">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-11">Grisson in the MS.  This was Andrew J. Grayson, of Louisiana, who came west in 1846.  He seems to have been a lieutenant, not a captain, and to have fought with Maddox.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit., V</HI>
078.sgm:, 383, and Bryant, <HI REND="italics">op. cit., passim</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>It was there that I saw a custom I had never watched before, one characteristic of the Spanish-Californians.  When a certain person was to be especially honored, a fresh egg was broken over his head, and as the contents spread out, a handful of finely-cut gold leaf was thrown over it, turning the hair gold.  Those selected for this honor seemed quite willing to submit to this strange procedure, and even appeared proud of it.</P>
078.sgm:<P>At all local dances music was provided by a harp, a violin, and a guitar.  I enjoyed the trios immensely, for the musicians played very well indeed.  With the addition of the flute, these were the only musical instruments used in those days in California, and tunes played on them were always popular, for early settlers seemed to be universal lovers of music.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Most of the inhabitants of Monterey were rancheros, or hacenderos--owners of large estates--and raised cattle, hides and tallow being their main source of income.  In upper California, at least, little was produced or manufactured for export; Sutter and a native of Scotland, John Sinclair, were the only two men who shipped out wheat.  I was told that a large amount of wine was made in the vicinity of Los Angeles from the mission grapes raised there, and moved in goatskins north and south along the coast.  Woolen blankets, in which wolves' hair was often used, and several kinds of leather suitable for saddles, saddle blankets, bridles, leggings, hats, and a kind of smoked leather for shoes, were made by Californians for home use.  Additional supplies were brought in from other countries, but the needs of the people, especially the rancheros, were comparatively slight.</P>
078.sgm:<P>While I was stationed at Monterey, I often took short trips to Point Pinos which lay about four miles to the north on the tip of the peninsula at a point where it rose to a fair elevation and then sloped off toward the sea.  The intermediate country that extended as far as the thick forest on the west side of the bay consisted of rolling grass-covered land not more than a quarter of a mile broad.  Southeast of the small village the land rose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Nothing important occurred while Captain Maddox and his few troops were away except the arrival of the U. S. transport <HI REND="italics">Independence</HI>
078.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n2-12">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and several small sailing vessels, among them the sloop-of-war, <HI REND="italics">Dale</HI>
078.sgm:.  The appearance of these vessels in the harbor annoyed the early settlers, I was told, because they increased the strength of the United States forces, and because their guns could destroy the entire village, if they decided to attack the local fort.<ANCHOR ID="n2-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-12">The <HI REND="italics">Independence</HI>
078.sgm:, Commander Shubrick, arrived on January 22, 1847.  She was preceded by The <HI REND="italics">Dale</HI>
078.sgm:, in command of William McKean that reached port on December 20 with a load of mail for the Pacific Squadron.  Current events at Monterey are told in an entertaining manner by Walter Colton in <HI REND="italics">Three Years in California</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3b">Omission in folios 94 and 95 describing punishment of soldiers.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>During the Christmas holidays, the Spaniards had a series of open-air celebrations in which many of the local residents took part.  These were biblical in character and lasted for several days.  The participants, who were elaborately dressed and accompanied by musicians, stopped before various houses and sang song after song, and although the melodies were pleasant, yet the singers sang in a peculiar nasal tone, which ruined the effect.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One of the strolling players took the part of the lost son being tortured by the devil from whose clutches he could not escape, and who seemed to take a fanatical delight in following him wherever he went.  Suddenly the Angel Gabriel came to his rescue and overpowered the bold, black creature whose eyes, lips, and tongue were a fiery red.  With as much pathos as the lost son had begged for mercy from him, the devil now pleaded with the Angel Gabriel, who placed his foot on his neck, and thrust the point of his sword into his body.  Gabriel gave the lost son an opportunity to exact vengeance for the torture received, an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I recall that several distinguished citizens, including General Castro,<ANCHOR ID="n2-13">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-13">Jose&acute; Castro was a leading citizen of Monterey and had taken part in military affairs since his youth.  For a time he was military commander under Governor Alvarado.  His life was full of colorful and dramatic experiences.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit., V, passim</HI>
078.sgm:, and Bryant, <HI REND="italics">op. cit., passim</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Sunday was visiting day for the prisoners, and many women came to see them.  Those of Spanish descent were charming.  They had an abundance of thick, black hair, were slender in build, wore simple, attractive costumes, and behaved in a gracious and natural manner.  They did not wear hats or bonnets, but had huge combs in their hair; many wore shawls, or rebozos, which half covered their faces, on their heads.  Upon meeting, they would embrace one another in a dignified manner.</P>
078.sgm:<P>All the prisoners were men who had fought against the Americans.  If they had been dangerous, they would not have been given so much liberty.  I remember having met some of them in our own quarters later on, after they had regained their freedom, and many were on friendly terms with our officers.  Our naval officers also knew them intimately, and the pretty daughters and sisters of our pseudo-enemies appeared to have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>One fine afternoon, after a month's absence, Captain Maddox and his soldiers returned.  They lined up in front of us and gave three loud cheers, which we returned enthusiastically.  After one look at them I was not surprised to learn that the Spaniards were afraid of these men, for their unshaved faces made them resemble disreputable cut-throats, like the rest of the volunteers.  In general, the marines and sailors were more prepossessing; their uniforms were usually in fairly good condition.  In addition to the forty or fifty recruits who had left Monterey with Maddox, eighteen of Grayson's men returned with him, and our quarters, which had been very quiet during the past months, became lively again.  That meant more work, for the volunteers had elected me a kind of quartermaster.  A man called Peter served as cook, when he was not on a spree, and two Walla Walla Indians acted as assistants and waiters.<ANCHOR ID="n2-5b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-5b">Omission in folios 95 and 96 describing details of army life at Monterey.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>From Los Angeles word had been received that our boys in blue were to serve under Commander Stockton,<ANCHOR ID="n2-14">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and were not to wait for Fre&acute;mont to arrive.  During the past few days, the latter had led the 270 or 280 men he had with him on a long detour, and had made them suffer many hardships to achieve his aim, which was to be present when Los Angeles was captured.  That enabled him to make arrangements to swindle an enormously large land grant, the Mariposa, from the Mexican government.  Rumors of this kind had been circulating for some time, and the public said that Fre&acute;mont was either a traitor or a great coward; nearly everyone thought he had betrayed us, for this seemed to fit in so well with his acquiring of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-14">Robert Field Stockton succeeded Sloat as commander of the Pacific Squadron.  He was a native of New Jersey, a Princeton graduate, and a navy man of high standing.  See Bancroft <HI REND="italics">up. cit., V, passim</HI>
078.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
078.sgm: for Sept. 19, 1846, carries the notice: "Arrived the 13 the U. S. Frigate <HI REND="italics">Congress</HI>
078.sgm: from San Pedro, Commander Stockton." A few days later this ship and the <HI REND="italics">Savannab</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Later, I was told that Fre&acute;mont did not try to make favorable terms for the United States, but allowed General Vallejo<ANCHOR ID="n2-15">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-15">Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo was born in 1808 at Monterey, where he attended school and entered the military service.  He was the owner of Rancho Petaluma and the founder of Sonoma.  He rose to be the most powerful leader in California, and the military dictator of the north.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit., passim</HI>
078.sgm:<P>This was the great hero, this would-be emperor, whom many wished to reward for distinguished services believed to have been rendered to his country.  This was the pathfinder who blazed a trail through the American wilderness; but the way, incidentally, was pointed out by several experienced mountaineers, such as Kit Carson,<ANCHOR ID="n2-16">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: an Englishman, Walker,<ANCHOR ID="n2-17">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and others.  This was the discoverer of mineral treasures in the wilderness, which geologists like Kern and others actually found, yet which the hero claimed to have seen first.  This was the man who not only tried his luck in the cattle business on the Mariposa, but also let considerable money slip into his pockets through the generosity of Uncle Sam.  I also heard that Fre&acute;mont gave a Yankee, called Captain Phelps,<ANCHOR ID="n2-18">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: a receipt for the trifling sum of ten thousand dollars for taking his boat and fifty or sixty volunteers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:from the San Antonio,<ANCHOR ID="n2-19">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-16">Christopher Carson, a noted Kentucky guide, trapper, and Indian fighter.  He was Fre&acute;mont's guide, and was with him during the operations in the war.  His reputation for bravery and heroism extended throughout the west.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-17">Joseph R. Walker, a famous guide, mountaineer, and Indian fighter, who came to California in 1833 with a party of trappers.  He was one of Fre&acute;mont's guides.  See Bryant, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-18">Captain William D. Phelps, who came west on the <HI REND="italics">Alert</HI>
078.sgm: in 1840.  He was one of Fre&acute;mont's most able men, and took an active part in the war.  See his <HI REND="italics">Fore and Aft</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-19">Rancho San Antonio was an old Spanish grant awarded to Lui&acute;s Peralta in 1820.  Oakland and Alameda now occupy a section of this land.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Another disgraceful episode occurred when Colonel Kearny<ANCHOR ID="n2-20">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: took Fre&acute;mont prisoner upon charges of insubordination, notwithstanding his valiant services for his fatherland, then made him lead the way east over the long route across the Rocky Mountains that he himself had discovered.  It was fortunate for him that the man who happened to be Secretary of State at that time was James Buchanan,<ANCHOR ID="n2-21">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-20">Stephen W. Kearny of New Jersey, leader of the U. S. expedition to New Mexico, who was sent west to occupy California.  His controversies with Stockton and Fre&acute;mont led to serious charges being raised in Washington against the latter.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit., V. passim</HI>
078.sgm: and W. H. Emory, <HI REND="italics">Notes of a Military Reconnoissance</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-21">James Buchanan subsequently became the fifteenth president of the United States.  He was elected on the democratic ticket in 1856, winning over the republican candidate, John C. Fre&acute;mont, by 60 votes.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>In 1856, Fre&acute;mont hoped to be made president, but lacked supporters.  Early in the sixties, he aspired to be generalissimo, and enlisted many ardent followers, among them large numbers of Germans.  He also played the ro&circ;le of a second Napoleon, and gave himself so many airs that when his Excellency, who hoped to become his Majesty, went for a ride, his carriage was escorted by lancers and cavalrymen.  For a time the people cheered when he passed; later they were strangely silent.  The ambitions of Fre&acute;mont were obvious everywhere; he even tried to promote a railroad, his plan being to form a large stock company and sell shares at a certain price, but the public declined to invest.  I was told that he had a rich French brother-in-law, and through his help and influence shares were sold in France with considerable success.  Wealthy Frenchmen had invested a large amount of money in the stock, and Fre&acute;mont's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:French brother-in-law, who had believed the enterprise was a sound one, had put his entire fortune in it when the venture was pronounced a swindle.  With Fre&acute;mont he was found guilty of promoting an illegal company, condemned, and, together with its promoter sentenced to prison; Fre&acute;mont, however, had been careful not to touch French soil, and so escaped penal servitude, which did not look inviting to him, even if he deserved it.  Such is the irony of fate!<ANCHOR ID="n2-6b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-6b">Folios 96 to 100 omitted.  These describe petty thievery in the army, lassoing of wild cattle, release from service, and a trip to San Francisco.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>MY TRIP UP THE SACRAMENTO</P>
078.sgm:<P>Returning to San Francisco, we reached Mission Dolores at sunset.  It lay beyond sand hills thickly covered with scrub oak and underbrush, some three miles southwest of where ships anchored at San Francisco in those days.  The mission road wound in a northeasterly direction in and out over sand dunes, and on my fine white horse, that had given such excellent service, I soon reached the home of Mr. Hoen<ANCHOR ID="n3-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1a">Francis Hoen, who came west with the Swasey-Todd party in 1845, and remained for a time at the fort.  In 1846 he owned several lots in San Francisco and lived on the corner of Dupont and Pacific Streets.  He kept a cigar store and was candidate for alcalde.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The first question I asked the group was regarding transportation,and when the next schooner would leave for Sacramento.  I was told that the <HI REND="italics">Sutter</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Shortly before dawn the following morning, the fat, pompous little Englishman came aboard.  He did not explain why he had been away all night.  Someone told me he had been involved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:in an affair on shore, and had been put in the <HI REND="italics">cabildo</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Anchors were now hoisted, a course set for Angel Island, and, with sails unfurled, our small craft began to move slowly ahead.  But the breeze was so weak that we were unable to round the island before the tide ebbed.  Time and again the current pulled us back, and although we tried both sides of the island, yet the breeze was so light that our schooner made no headway whatsoever.  When I awoke the next morning, I discovered that the ship had anchored to the lee of Yerba Buena, or Goat Island.  In those days it was an unsightly spot covered with brush and tangled undergrowth; but I understand it is now the terminus of a great railway connecting the two oceans.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After a few hours of tedious waiting anchors were raised again, and the prow of the ship set for the San Francisco wharf; we disembarked there about noon.  Since the captain had decided to remain in port several hours, I went to the quartermaster's office, turned in my horse, which a Spaniard had given me, and was provided with enough rations to last for the four or five-day trip to Sutter's Fort.  Then I returned to the schooner.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After some delay we again prepared to sail.  This time we pulled away from our moorings with a slightly stiffer wind, but not one that could be called a good breeze.  The tiny bird-covered island, called Alcatraz, of which I have already spoken, was passed, and we were once more nearing Angel Island when a small boat overtook us.  It belonged to a U. S. warship anchored some distance away and carried ten young sailors who handled their oars so skilfully that the small craft shot over the crest of the waves as swiftly as an arrow.  A midshipman in charge of the skiff stood at its helm.  Having reached the side of the schooner, the young officer handed the captain a letter from Sutter, then rowed swiftly away to the rhythm of oars clicking with as much regularity as if they had been propelled by a machine.  By this time the tide had turned in our favor, and we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>As evening approached, the tides began to go out; anchor was dropped near land on our right, and there we waited for the current to turn.  Night came and went.  The weather was pleasant and warm the following day, but the breeze was still so light that we progressed slowly, taking every possible advantage of wind and tide, and it was noon, or early afternoon, before we passed Carquinez Strait.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Among passengers on board were a German woman called Kuntze from Heilbroon, who had been visiting her son in San Jose&acute; and was on her way to rejoin her husband<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: at Sutter's Fort, and three Americans whose names, except that of a slender Kentuckian called McDowell,<ANCHOR ID="n3-3">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">John C. Kuntze, or Kunze, who lived at the fort and later in San Francisco.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-3">This was James McDowell, who came west with his family in 1845, and was employed as gunsmith at Sutter's Fort.  In 1847 he moved to a rancho near the Sacramento River where he was murdered two years later.  The name appears as McTowell in the MS.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>As we were sailing through Carquinez Strait with the town of Carquinez on our right and a low range of hills, now the site of Benicia and the U. S. navy yards, on the left, Captain Yates and the passengers began to realize that the supply of food was running low, and that our larder must be replenished at once.  Several wild cattle were sighted grazing quietly on what is now the town of Benicia; we hoped to be able to shoot one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Late that afternoon Suisun Bay was reached; there we were forced to anchor in tall reeds until high tide returned.  The following morning a thick bank of fog hung over us.  When it lifted, the sky was still gray and overcast as our ship moved slowly ahead.  On the right I could see foothills and the strange double crested four-thousand-foot peak, Mt. Diablo; apparently it was separated from the coastal range by Carquinez Strait, yet it was actually part of this mountain range.  With light winds which still followed us the schooner made little headway.</P>
078.sgm:<P>We left Suisun Bay late at night and by the time we awoke the following morning, the arduous part of our journey up the river had begun.  Along both banks trees were visible; they appeared to be either California oaks, poplars, cottonwoods, sycamores, willows, or ash.  Long stretches of swamps, thick with tules and reeds, that extended far off into the back country, were also passed.  From this point on, the Sacramento River was so high and swift that the currents seriously retarded our ship, which was further hampered by complications with high tides from the bay.  Captain Yates began to whistle valiantly through his teeth.  The Indian crew believed this trick would make the wind rise; his efforts proved futile, however.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The captain and the Indians finally climbed into a small boat, rowed up the river, and located a tree around which they wound one end of a long rope so that the crew could pull our vessel against the current, and make it move ahead.  Our trip had been such a slow one that supplies were nearly exhausted by this time.  At a point where the trees were not so numerous and the ground seemed dry, the two Americans went ashore again to hunt game for our dwindling larder; but their first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Strong river currents still continued to check our progress up stream.  Notwithstanding our captain's whistling, the wind had not increased, and for several days we made so little headway that the trip began to be most tedious.  Hoping to take advantage of any little breeze there was, we followed the main artery of the river, even though the course was somewhat longer and led past an island that was ten miles in length.  It took us several days to reach the upper end of this body of land.  Our two hunters had again gone ashore to look for more game, but the next day as they had not returned, our ship anchored near the tip of the island.</P>
078.sgm:<P>On the left bank directly across from us there stood a solitary Indian hut; it was owned by a man called Clements,<ANCHOR ID="n3-4">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-4">This seems to be William Clements, who came to the fort in 1845, Lienhard calls him Clemenzi.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Captain Yates decided to send one of his Indian sailor to the fort with a letter for Captain Sutter; McDowell volunteered to accompany him, and as I was tired of the tedious trip, I decided to go along.  Mrs. Kuntze was the only passenger left <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I knew the trip would prove difficult, and that it would be impossible for us to make forty-three miles in one day, so I suggested that we take some blankets and matches along in case we decided to camp.  McDowell disagreed.  "When I travel, I travel," he said.  "I am not too lazy to keep moving, and do not intend to stop or camp before I hit Sutter's Fort."  His conceited, inconsiderate attitude made me quite angry; instead of taking both my blankets, I took only one, and left the matches behind.</P>
078.sgm:<P>My reply to McDowell was that if he thought I was too lazy to make the trip on foot in one day, I would show him I could do it if he could.  I strapped my blanket and knapsack on my back, and we went ashore at Clements's hut.  Our Indian broke trail and McDowell followed; I walked behind.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Having gone only a few yards we reached a slough; here we were forced to wade through water up to our knees.  A frightened elk suddenly bounded out of the water with great leaps and soon vanished in the brush, then McDowell took the lead again and made such good speed with his long legs that I had some difficulty keeping up with him.  We soon discovered that we could travel faster if we followed the grassy area that lay between the river and the forest, and avoided the swamps further inland.  In a short time McDowell's pace began to slacken and we were able to follow him without much effort.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After we had traveled about six miles our long-legged hero, who had told us a few hours ago that he was not too lazy to walk, suggested that we stop and rest.  The trip was half over, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Unfortunately, the extensive tule-covered marshes that often reached far back in the forests were occasionally submerged in deep water.  We also found lagoons of varying breadth and width formed by marshy areas whose waters flowed back swiftly into the Sacramento with the ebbing tides, and at such places there was always unavoidable delay, for we had to find out whether we could get through without running into deep currents.  Several lagoons were crossed where the cold water reached to our hips and in places even up to our shoulders; these icy baths I did not enjoy.  McDowell was constantly finding what he thought was a safe place to camp, but I refused to stop despite his suggestions.</P>
078.sgm:<P>No wild animals except some coyotes, and a few wildcats had been seen thus far, although frequently we came across deer, especially bucks; once, in a grass-covered area between the forest and swamp, were seen grazing.  Our route continued through less open country now and we were forced at times to wade through marshy stretches.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Finally, a place was reached that was too deep to cross on foot.  At such times we usually tried to find trees with branches broad enough to reach to the opposite side of the slough.  Many such trees were available; we succeeded in our attempt; and by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Noon found us in a dense forest near a deep, broad arm of the river.  I had been traveling ahead of my comrades for some time; now I stopped.  On the opposite bank was a broad-limbed juniper tree against which a large sycamore that formed a kind of natural path leading over to the other trees had fallen.  Without stopping to think, I used this as a bridge and, by balancing myself on one of its strongest branches at a height of ten or twelve feet above ground, reached the opposite bank.  While crossing at this elevation, I had seen large numbers of vultures, turkey buzzards, ravens, crows, and magpies perched on a sycamore tree nearby, and knew there must be a carcass somewhere in the vicinity.  I had not looked around to see where it was, for I did not suspect any danger, and was busy lowering myself from limb to limb to the ground.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I called to my two comrades to hurry across so we could continue without too much delay.  The Indian guide was not far behind; he had also neglected to look around and find out why all the vultures had gathered.  Whenever he had to climb anywhere McDowell was always slow.  As he was hindered by his revolver and gun and was afraid they might fall and be lost in deep water, he asked me to hold them while he scrambled up, and after I had taken them he swung clumsily from branch to branch, until he reached the ground.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When he released them, they swung back with a loud cracking sound, and as McDowell let go and landed on the ground with a heavy thud, the branches crashed more noisily than before.  Then came a shrill whistle from the sycamore tree, and the birds flew off together as if they had been shot from a cannon.  Thick underbrush that cut off the view grew between us and this particular tree.  The noises and sounds of nature were far more obvious to the Indian than to we two American <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Observing his agitation I asked, "Is it a wolf?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"No, no," he said.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Is it an elk?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"No, no," he replied again.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Is it a grizzly bear?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes," he whispered quickly.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I asked McDowell if his gun was loaded, but he told me it was empty.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"What about your pistols?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"They are not loaded either."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Well," I remarked, "the grizzly bear will probably have a good time eating one of us, for we have no way to defend ourselves if he attacks."</P>
078.sgm:<P>I looked quickly around for a place to hide if the bear suddenly came out of the underbrush and decided, since the forest on beyond was clear of growth, to conceal myself behind the trunk of a large oak and fight for my life with my hunting knife.  I motioned to the Indian to go ahead, but he refused; so I grabbed him by his coat collar, and pushed him.  He did not resist, but walked on his tiptoes, looking carefully about, especially toward the thick underbrush near the sycamore tree.  At first we traveled cautiously, then proceeded more rapidly, until we finally broke into a run.  When the danger seemed over, we slowed down.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Why the gray rascal allowed us to escape unmolested is a mystery; perhaps it had watched us make the strange trip over the bridge, heard McDowell call, and seen the branches shake.  Perhaps this may have frightened it, and made it fear that we intended to attack, and so it gave the loud wheeze characterstic of its kind.  If McDowell had limped along as slowly as he did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Two hours after dusk we left the forest and reached the bank of the river, where we found an Indian village.  Our Indian friend entered a hut in which lights and a fire were burning.  From past experience I knew that directly across the river from this native settlement a German bachelor was living; I recalled the delicious salmon I had once eaten there, and decided not to follow my guide's example.  All Indians are so infested with vermin that any white man who associates with them is certain to be contaminated, as I have found out to my sorrow, and to avoid meeting them, I went down to the bank, where I hoped to find a canoe or other means of transportation to take me over to visit Mr. Schwartz.</P>
078.sgm:<P>To my great joy, I soon found what I was seeking.  At first I attempted to explain to the Indians that I wished to be rowed across; but they pretended not to understand, so I realized I would be forced to attempt it without their help.  Now this particular canoe was large enough to hold three persons, and happened to be equipped with oars quite unlike what I had previously used.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Having rowed down the river, I caught hold of some bushes on the opposite bank, and, with their aid, was able to disembark.  After fastening the canoe, I went on up along the bank until I heard a dog bark; then I knew I was approaching the hut.  Upon arriving I knocked at the door, called "Mr. Schwartz," and asked for lodgings for the night.  As a light appeared, the door was cautiously opened, and I entered.  I was damp, cold, and hungry, having eaten nothing since morning.  Finally Mr. Schwartz offered me some salty smoked salmon, and an unpalatable liquid that he called coffee, but which bore a closer resemblance to dishwater.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Poor as the food was, I ate heartily, perhaps too heartily to please Mr. Schwartz, for hunger makes anything taste good.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Sleep was impossible; I was far too cold and miserable.  Having stoked the fire as well as the supply of wood permitted, I lay down again, chilly and dejected, waiting for the sun to rise.  Everything ends eventually, and so this night, which was one of the most uncomfortable I have ever experienced, finally passed.  At dawn Mr. Schwartz awoke, dressed, kindled the fire, and prepared a meal of the same over-salted, dried salmon, and weak coffee; he was generous enough to ask me to share this repast.  After breakfast I was forced to explain to my host that I had no money to pay for what I had eaten.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Although Mr. Schwartz did not reply, yet I could see from the look on his face what he was thinking, and I was deeply embarrassed, not knowing what to do.  All I had was a tin cup that had cost six cents, my last silver, in Independence, nine months ago, which I cherished for its association, and, hoping that Schwartz would not accept this as compensation, I said, "I gave my last piece of silver for this tin cup in Independence, Missouri, and I should like to keep it, but I am willing to give it to you if you think you should be recompensed for your hospitality."</P>
078.sgm:<P>Schwartz looked at the tin cup as much as to say: "Is this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Schwartz spoke a jargon of Dutch, German, English, Spanish, and Indian, and it was so difficult to understand him that I had to ask, "What are you saying?"  When I saw he coveted my cup, I had to give it to him, then when I asked him if he would be kind enough to row me over to the other side of the river, he refused, so I crossed over to the opposite shore alone but could find neither McDowell nor the Indian.</P>
078.sgm:<P>For the first time in many days the sky was clear, and the sun shone with a welcome warmth; as I started out alone the path was dry and I hoped that I would not be forced to wade again through deep water.  But I recognized my error too late when I reached another wet area that seemed almost too deep for wading.  It was not long before I stumbled on a place where several trees had been interlaced with wild grapevines that formed a kind of net or hammock.  This seemed to be a favorable point to cross, and so I climbed up through these bushes, trees, and vines, hoping in this way to keep above water; but now I discovered that, like a fly in a spider's web, I had difficulty in getting out, and once narrowly escaped falling into the water.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Eventually I reached the other side safely.  Within the next few miles no obstacles were encountered, but later I found several places where I was compelled to wade through water so deep that it came up to my shoulders.  But at last my trials came to an end, and, having weathered all these difficulties, I reached Sutter's Fort toward noon; the trip of eight miles,--the English figure a man can walk a mile in twenty minutes,--had taken nearly three hours in spite of my haste.<ANCHOR ID="n3-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1b">Omission of folios 103 to 115 describing life along the Feather River, and Indian feuds.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>PIONEERING AT MIMAL</P>
078.sgm:<P>Not long after I reached the fort, Sutter offered me work at Mimal,<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: a short distance from Hock Farm,<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: where I raised vegetables under the supervision of a head gardener, a German called Muller.<ANCHOR ID="n4-3">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: It was there that I met Charles Covillaud,<ANCHOR ID="n4-4">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and the beautiful Mary<ANCHOR ID="n4-5">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: for the first time.  Having deserted Johnson,<ANCHOR ID="n4-6">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who was left alone with his Indian squaws, Mary had just returned from visiting her brother-in-law, Foster,<ANCHOR ID="n4-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: in San Francisco.  When I first became acquainted with Covillaud, he was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:working for Cordua,<ANCHOR ID="n4-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and had charge of his shop, where chests, wagons, and miscellaneous articles made of wood were turned out, for in those days the demands were so slight that he was able to make whatever was required.  Immediately after gold was discovered on Sutter's land on January 24, 1848, Covillaud joined the miners who were prospecting along the American River, and panned several hundred dollars' worth of the precious metal.  This sum, together with the money he had earned working for Cordua and a few hundred dollars more, which he borrowed from an old French-Canadian who lived above Mimal near Nye's<ANCHOR ID="n4-9">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and Smith's<ANCHOR ID="n4-10">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">Mimal, or Memal, was once an Indian rancheria, and stood on the west bank of the Feather River a few miles below Marysville.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">Hock Farm was settled in the fall of 1842.  Theodore Sicard and a man called Dupont lived there for a time and in 1843 John Bidwell went up to take charge.  He built the house that summer, using adobe, and left in 1844.  Five thousand cattle and more than a thousand horses were kept at Hock.  Bidwell was succeeded by William Bennitz and in 1846 by Major Hensley who left for the war that spring.  A Kanaka, Harry, then took charge.  Sutter did not make Hock Farm his residence until 1850.  Lienhard took charge of the Mimal garden on September 18, 1847.  See <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-3">Apparently Thomas Muller, who is mentioned in the <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<P>.</P>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-4">Charles Covillaud was a Frenchman who came to California in 1846, and worked on Cordua's Ranch.  He became half owner two years later.  He assisted in laying out Marysville in 1850, which was named for his wife, and lived there until his death in 1867.  See <HI REND="italics">infra, IV, note 8</HI>
078.sgm:<P>.</P>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-5">Mary Murphy was a member of the ill-fated Donner party, whose relatives perished in the mountains.  When Johnson was courting her he spent many hours discussing the morals of pioneer life with Lienhard who advised him to explain everything to Mary.  She finally accepted his offer of marriage.  The knot was tied by Alcalde Sinclair.  Mary soon left the elderly Johnson, who returned to his Indian squaws, and married a dapper young Frenchman, Covillaud.  Her portrait appears in the <HI REND="italics">Calif. Hist. Soc. Quarterly</HI>
078.sgm:<P>.</P>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-6">William Johnson, owner of Johnson's Rancho, a noted emigrant landmark situated about forty miles above Sutter's Fort on Bear Creek, a tributary of the Feather River.  His house was a two-room log and adobe structure.  A New England sailor, he came to California in 1840, and acquired his ranch five years later.  In 1847 he married Mary Murphy</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>.</P>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-7">William M. Foster and his wife Sarah Murphy were members of the Donner party, and pioneers of good standing.  He owned a fourth interest in Cordua's property and was one of the founders of Marysville.  Foster's Bar, a famous mining camp where he kept a store, was named for him</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>.</P>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-8">Theodore Cordua was a leading German pioneer who secured a lease from Sutter in 1841 to a large ranch on the fork of the Yuba and Feather rivers, where he lived until 1849.  His ranch buildings stood at the foot of D and High Streets in what is now Marysville.  The place was named New Mecklenburg in honor of his birthplace, although it was usually called Cordua's Ranch.  In 1844 Cordua secured a grant of seven square leagues from the Mexican government, that extended from the Feather River to the Sierras.  After the gold rush his house became a central trading post.  He sold half of his property in 1848 and on January 4, 1849, sold the other half interest in his holdings to Nye and Foster.  His ranch was not far from Mimal, and Lienhard often spent Sundays with him.  On July fourth he met Johnson, Nye, Hartwig, the botanist, Covillaud, and Charles Roether there.  See the "Memoirs of Theodor Cordua" edited by E. G. Gudde in <HI REND="italics">California Historical Society Quarterly</HI>
078.sgm:, Vol. XII, No. 4, December 1933, p. 279 ff, also "The Beginnings of Marysville" by Earl Ramey, <HI REND="italics">ibid</HI>
078.sgm:<P>.</P>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-9">Michael C. Nye came to California with the Bidwell party in 1841.  He was Sutter's manager at Hock Farm and Cordua's majordomo at New Mecklenburg for a time.  In 1847 he purchased part of Sutter's grant adjoining Smith's claim.  His adobe house built that same year had two rooms and was roofed with split shakes.  In June, 1847, he married Mrs. Harriett Pike, a sister of Mary Murphy of the Donner party.  Early in 1849 he acquired part of Cordua's property and was one of the builders of Marysville.  Lienhard and Cordua disliked Nye.  See <HI REND="italics">Memoirs of Theodor Cordua, op. cit</HI>
078.sgm:<P>.</P>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-10">This was John or James Smith's rancho on the Yuba.  An English sailor, he had been originally in Sutter's employ, but had settled in 1845 on his property, where he built a cabin on the site of what later was the town of Linda.  See <HI REND="italics">Supra, I, note 4</HI>
078.sgm:<P>.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Cordua often hired Indians,<ANCHOR ID="n4-11">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who lived on the mountain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-11">The Mimals or Memals, lived originally at the fork of the Feather and Yuba rivers.  When Cordua arrived they moved to the east bank of the Yuba.  Other tribes were the Olashes, who lived a mile from Nicolaus, the Mokelumnes, three miles from Hock Farm, the Hocks, a large rancheria near Sutter's country place, the Seshums, who lived at Shanghai Bend on the Feather River between Yuba City and Hock Farm, and the Yubas, at Yuba City</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>.</P>
078.sgm:<P>At the time Covillaud told me about this new venture, I was employed by Sutter in a nursery on the big lagoon definitely within the boundaries of what is now Sacramento City.  He was on his way to San Francisco with fifteen hundred dollars to make his purchases, and had stopped in to visit me.  He tried to persuade me to leave my nursery and go into partnership with him, yet because I could not put an equal amount of cash into the business, not having been a shrewd enough business man to have made that much money, and because I was afraid too that I might offend Captain Sutter by abandoning the nursery, which would have to be left in good condition, just after it was started, I did not take advantage of his generous offer.  Covillaud came to see me after all his purchases had been made; he felt quite confident that he would locate a good claim worth at least three thousand dollars and said he had been able to purchase what articles he required at a low price, because the actual wealth of the gold mines was not generally known in San Francisco as yet.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Everything worked out to suit the plans of the French Yankee, who had not been misled in his belief that gold would be found along the Yuba and the Indians, unaware of the value of gold, were eager to work for what they considered rare treasures, such as glass beads, in return for apparently worthless pebbles and yellow sand that contained gold.  In fact the fifteen hundred dollars' worth of merchandise returned the amount of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>As the Indians liked colored glass beads, they were quite willing to give Covillaud an equal amount of gold for them.  The beads were placed in a pan on the scales, and the Indians piled gold in the other pan until the weights balanced.  This traffic continued for some time until men from the recently opened mines along the Yuba heard of it and began to flock to the new placers.  By that time Covillaud had acquired many thousand dollars' worth of gold dust and had purchased a half interest, including two thousand head of cattle and eight hundred horses, in Cordua's ranch, for the ridiculously low price of twelve hundred dollars.  The ranch itself covered three leagues of rich bottomland that stretched along the banks of the Yuba and Feather rivers.  During the short time he traded with the Indians, Covillaud had been fairly prosperous, but now he was actually rich, and amassing money, or "making it," as it was called in the American idiom, had just begun.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When the news spread that rich mines had been discovered on the Yuba, miners began to pour in from every direction, and for a time they were obliged to buy all their supplies from Covillaud, who sold them meat from old steers that would otherwise have been unmarketable, except for hide and tallow, for a dollar a pound, and other necessities on a similar basis.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The mines paid well and the miners were grateful to be able to obtain their groceries in the vicinity.  Before any competitors <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>It was sometime during the year 1849, if I remember correctly, that Mary secured a legal divorce from her former husband, Johnson, and married Covillaud, just as a fortune-teller had predicted she would do.<ANCHOR ID="n4-12">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-12">Lienhard had heard that a fortune teller had predicted this match.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>While I was living in Mimal I met many other pioneers.  One of them was the German called Cordua.  The name sounds Spanish, rather than German, and may not be his real one.  I believe that Cordua lived for several years in South America in one of the Colombian states called New Granada, where he married a negress or mulatto woman by whom he had several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>His house, I recall, was built of adobe and had a tule roof; it was only one story high, but it contained an attic that could be turned into sleeping quarters.  The rooms on the main floor were quite commodious.  The building stood on high open ground on the banks of the Yuba at a point where the river makes a great bend and swings from southeast to west.  When I knew him, Cordua must have been about fifty years old; he was heavy, corpulent, and somewhat phlegmatic, and often indulged in extremely strong alcoholic drink, frequently taking far more than was good for him.  When he was drunk, he would become excited, and would complete transactions that were more to his detriment than advantage, although I myself never saw him more than once in his latter years even slightly under the influence of liquor, and his attitude toward me was invariably frank and cordial.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Cordua appeared to have been well-educated; he read incessantly, and for a man in the wilderness, had a fairly valuable library.  When he found that I enjoyed reading, he was kind enough to offer me any books I might be interested in.  Kotzebue's <HI REND="italics">Sea Voyages Around the World</HI>
078.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n4-13">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-13">Otto von Kotzebue, <HI REND="italics">New Voyage Round the World</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>A clever conversationalist, Cordua, having seen the world, had many interesting things to talk about, even though his words and expressions were vulgar at times, and he did not always use choice language.  He never used these words to be insulting, however; they had merely become a habit with him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When there was nothing good to eat in the house, I would send my Indian boy with a piece of paper on which I had written what I wanted and the good old chap never refused my request, whether it was for meat or milk.  Meat was invariably cheap; but milk was a luxury.  These things he never actually gave me; I repaid him with vegetables and melons, which I supplied whenever he asked for them.  In fact, we always exchanged what supplies we needed.</P>
078.sgm:<P>If Cordua happened to pass my house, he always stopped in, even if he had several Indians along, and I would give them as many melons as they could eat.  One time he introduced me to his brother-in-law, a shabbily-dressed Indian boy who was the brother of Cordua's Indian wife.  When he said: "Mr. Lienhard, this is my brother-in-law," I began to smile.  Cordua noticed it; but it did not disturb him in the least.  In fact, he even smiled faintly himself, which had me think he was merely joking.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Although sturdier and darker than the average native, his squaw was not unattractive in appearance.  On the other hand, Nye's former Indian woman who was less swarthy, and whose face had a pleasant expression, was extremely jealous of her pretty white rival, and Nye told me that she gave him so much trouble that he had to get rid of her.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One day soon after Nye had married and was away from home on business, I saw Cordua's and Nye's two Indian squaws, accompanied by Nye's two children and an Indian vaquero, pass my house and start toward the mountains.  Soon Cordua's squaw came back without Nye's Indian who had left because she resented the new white wife, who had taken her place.  When Nye returned, he found that his children too had vanished.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I told him what I knew.  Nye remarked that while he did not care about losing his Indian squaw, he would not allow her to keep the children; they belonged to him, he said, and he would not give them up.  When he came back that evening, he was accompanied by his eldest child, a handsome boy, but the woman would not let him have the baby, a tiny girl, because she was still nursing her.  A few days later Nye came to see me; he was on his way to get the small child because his Indian squaw had left her old home, where the child had been well cared for, and had taken the infant to Sutter's Fort where Nye knew her health would be ruined by a certain disease, which would be passed on to his innocent little girl.</P>
078.sgm:<P>He said that if the woman wanted to remain at the fort, she was at liberty to do so, but she would not be allowed to keep the child.  Later I asked him about her; he told me he had found her in the fort, and that she had refused to give him the baby, but after she found out that he intended to use force, she appealed to Cordua, who gave her to one of his vaqueros.  The arrangement was a satifactory one to all concerned.  While the squaw was living with a good Indian, Nye could provide her with all the groceries and clothes she needed, could see his child every day, and she could continue to nurse the baby.</P>
078.sgm:<P>For some time Nye was annoyed at me because he had not made a more satisfactory deal for my old coat,<ANCHOR ID="n4-14">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: although both of us remained on a friendly footing.  One day I could not restrain myself from asking him how he enjoyed his wedding garment, remarking how handsome he looked in it.  I assured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-14">Lienhard had sold him a coat he had brought overland, to wear on his wedding day.  He paid three cows for it.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Another pioneer I met was a German called Charley Roether,<ANCHOR ID="n4-15">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-15">Charles Roether, a German who came west in 1845 and was well known at the fort.  Charley's ranch was in Butte County.  For a time he lived on the north side of Honcut Creek one-half mile from the stream and about two miles from its mouth.  In 1858 he moved to the Feather River where he died in 1868.  Lienhard calls him Roder, and Kader.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Roether possessed an excellent German-Spanish dictionary as well as an exquisite ivory image of Christ with the cross, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>At Mimal, I came in contact with an English family who also started across the Rocky Mountains to California in 1846.  Since the spring of 1847, these people had lived with an Englishman known as Smith, who was Nye's partner, on the ranch two or three miles above Mimal.  Incidentally, the son of these same people stole my axe on the trip overland; I had forgotten to fasten it on the wagon when I was yoking up the oxen near Mary's River, and Rippstein found it in their possession.  They had sawed off the handle and would have attempted to claim it, for they wanted to keep the axe, if I had not been able to prove that it was mine.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When I came to Mimal, Thomen had been having his shirts washed by the Englishman's wife.  For a time she laundered mine too; the shirts were seldom clean, however, and were invariably yellow.  Captain Yates, whom we knew on Sutter's schooner and who was at least forty years old, married the sixteen-year-old daughter of this family; they all went to live with their son-in-law on his property, or claim, located further up in the Sacramento Valley.  They were quite conceited after their daughter married the little captain, who knew how to make himself seem important to simple people.  This family had had very little education apparently, and their language resembled old-fashioned English; they could not even read, I believe.  The man was supposed to have worked at one time in some coal mines.  With the single exception of the eldest son, who still made his home with them and who appeared to be feeble-minded, they all seemed well and strong.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After losing our washerwoman in this manner, we did our own laundry.  For soap we used the huge onion-like bulb of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Sometimes I passed an entire month alone; frequently for days at a stretch I did not see a single white man.  What few passed my door were for the most part friends who stopped only a short time, and then rode on, although occasionally someone would stay with me overnight.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Once two young Americans dropped in.  If I had been able to make them comfortable and give them something good to eat, they would have been even more welcome; but the best I could offer them was dried beef that had been cut into strips.  The young men had a large supply of dried, but fairly good elk meat, and were able to give me something even better than I could offer them; they were generous enough to leave some of it behind the next morning, probably because they felt sorry for me.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Another unexpected visitor was the famous Jim Savage, who arrived and, much to my surprise, unceremoniously invited himself to be my guest.  He failed to explain the object of his visit, possibly because he was out on a spying expedition to find out where he could steal the greatest number of horses.  He told me to cook him something extra good, and I was overjoyed to know that the most I could offer him was beef, which by this time was as hard as wood.  I let him inspect my stock of supplies with his own eyes, for I knew he would not believe me otherwise.  Having dined, Jim stayed with me overnight; regardless of how big a thief he was reputed to be, and undoubtedly was, he was full of droll jokes.  Coarse as they were, it was impossible not to laugh at them.  When he saw my butcher knife, the knife which I had given an Indian a fairly good shirt for not long ago, he wanted it, and immediately thrust it into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Several anecdotes he told about his experiences, while serving under Fre&acute;mont in Los Angeles, proved most amusing; these alone would have revealed his true character to anyone who did not know what a low type of man he was.  Every time I asked him how much he paid for his fine horse, saddle, leggings, spurs, etc., he always replied: "You damn fool!  I didn't pay a cent, I stole them.  Do you think I buy and pay for such things?"  When Jim finally left, I was relieved to know that he had found so few valuables worth taking along, and rejoiced to be rid of this n'er-do-well.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The longer I stayed at Mimal the more distasteful I found it, and in a few months I began to consider leaving.  Sometime before I had been obliged to shoot one of the Indians who had been stealing my watermelons,<ANCHOR ID="n4-16">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-16">In an unpublished section of the MS.  Lienhard tells how the Indians stole his melons and how, after repeated warnings, he shot one of the culprits through the leg.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Another time seventeen Indians gathered under the arbor near my house.  Among them were three thieves, whom I had chased out of my garden one evening, including one whom I had warned several times.  One of the trio sat near the door of the house.  Inside the house was a sliprope, and I believed that if I could throw this over his head, I could tighten it, hold one end of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Then the rascal, together with the two friends who had accompanied him that evening, ran swiftly out of my arbor.  I reached for my gun.  I did not intend to shoot, but merely wanted to defend myself in an emergency, but the Indians, with the exception of three or four vaqueros belonging to Cordua, had fled so quickly that they had no time to observe what was in front of them.  Two of them, who rushed through some tall weeds in their haste, fell into a hole in which the stump of a tree had been burned and had to turn several somersaults, their lean brown legs waving in the air, meanwhile.  No doubt most of them had been out on several nocturnal plundering trips.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I had written to Sutter repeatedly and asked him to engage another man, as I did not care to remain here any longer, and in his replies he tried to appease me, pretending he would send someone when he found the right one for the place.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One day, quite unexpectedly, the Englishman, Captain Yates's father-in-law, with his wife and six daughters, including Mrs. Yates, arrived; they were all ill with fever.  Stopping near my house with their ox cart the old man asked permission to camp, a request which I could not refuse.  I had several Mimal Indians clean out the commodious smokehouse and bring in a generous amount of marsh grass for the family on which to make their beds, and arranged to send them wood and water.  The man was told he could remain only until such a time as Sutter asked him to leave, and at that time he would have to vacate the smokehouse; he seemed satisfied with this arrangement.  When the smokehouse was ready for the family, I told him they could arrange their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>In the beginning I felt sorry for them; but after listening to "oh dear, oh, dear!" for some time I was ready to laugh.  There seemed to be a certain similarity between the various voices of the children and the sound of church bells, ranging from the highest to the lowest tones.  The voice of the smallest who could barely lisp, was followed by another somewhat lower, and so on down to the voice of the mother, Mrs. Yates, and finally to the bass voice of the old Englishman himself.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Even after I told him the smokehouse was ready for him, he seemed to prefer to mutter his deep "oh dear, oh dear," on the floor of my room, in the meanwhile vomiting heavily.  The children repeated his words over and over, until I was almost exhausted.  Knowing that if I had to listen to these same phrases for several hours longer, I would undoubtedly be ill, too, I told the Englishman that he must leave my room at once and go over to the quarters that had been prepared for him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Early the following morning I was awakened by a lively tune that seemed to come from the lips of some young man who was full of life and whose singing was inspired by the invigorating air of that delightful morning.  Jumping quickly out of bed, I dressed, and went out in front of the house to greet the new arrival.  To my surprise, I found the old Englishman lying on his blankets and singing at the top of his lungs.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Hello, old chap," I said, "You must feel better today; you sing like a young man."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes," he replied.  "I feel much better and decided to sing a song or two."</P>
078.sgm:<P>With the exception of the smallest child, the entire family now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>On his return trip Covillaud brought Sutter's reply in which he expressed himself as being far from satisfied with my conduct.  His chief complaint seemed to be the permission I had given the English family to move into the smokehouse, but I felt that this was nothing more than an excuse on his part.  He promised within a few days to send a man to take over my duties and asked me to be kind enough to show him whatever was necessary and tell him what to do in the garden.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, the old Englishman told me why his entire family, including the married daughter, had left Yates.  It seems that they had expected by the marriage to acquire a prosperous son-in-law who owned a large ranch, for the captain had referred constantly to his property; but when Yates took them to what they believed was an extensive ranch in the Sacramento Valley, they found that none of the land was under cultivation, and that the house was nothing but a poor hut, which was inhabited by Indians.  Two of the squaws claimed Yates as their husband, and stayed on even after he brought his white wife, her parents, and the flock of small sisters-in-law to live with him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Not until then did the disappointed family realize that the so-called ranch was merely a claim and not his own property; the smart Captain Yates expected his white father-in-law to work it with his own oxen, however, while he amused himself with the women.  The old man was tired and disgusted with the whole situation.  Even if the members of this family were not very bright, they had sense enough to know how worthless Yates was.  What made them especially indignant was the fact that he wanted to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>After eight days had passed, I was ready to leave Mimal.  My few belongings were already packed; I had decided that if no one arrived by noon to take charge of the place, I would leave anyway.  While I was waiting, the Englishman told me his youngest child had died during the night; he asked if I would dig a grave and make a little casket for the baby.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Digging a hole six feet deep in the hard ground was difficult work, and making a coffin was even more taxing because of the boards required; I told him to bring me the child's measurements, however, and to make them ample.  With what little material I had, an old handsaw and an axe, I went industriously to work, and prepared a fair casket, but when we attempted to place the child inside the box, it proved to be four or five inches too short.  The foolish old man had not even been able to take measurements correctly.</P>
078.sgm:<P>So I had to find some larger boards, and by the time I had finally completed the box and was about to place the pretty, lifeless, innocent creature inside, a man about thirty years old appeared, asked for me, and introduced himself as Mr. Burns,<ANCHOR ID="n4-17">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-17">Lienhard returned to Sutter's Fort in September.  In the <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<P>His arriving left me free to leave this lonely spot now.  There was nothing to do except wait until the two Indians who lived up the valley, and had a canoe, appeared to move me and my belongings.  Preferring to travel the remaining distance of two miles to Mimal on foot, rather than to make a trip of almost eight miles by way of the Feather and Yuba rivers which he would otherwise have had to make by canoe, Burns had disembarked at a small Indian village up the river.  I explained the nature of the work <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Mr. Burns tried to impress me with his importance by telling me he had been an interpreter to King Kamehameha in the Sandwich Islands until a short time ago, but when I asked him why he had left, his reply was unintelligible.  He asked me to leave my dog, Tiger, with him, at least as long as he remained on the property, promising to look after him, take good care of him, and give him back whenever I wanted him again.  Now Tiger had been a loyal friend to me in this lonely place, and had often helped me pass the long hours way, so I hesitated; but the man begged so insistently that I gave in finally.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I had secured the dog in May or June from Kanaka Harry, Sutter's overseer at Hock Farm, and by September he was almost half-grown and devoted to me.  A Russian-American breed, he was an extremely alert type of dog, with thick gray hair, and long feathery ears which he held erect; his tail, which was bent slightly forward, gave him an attractive appearance.  This type of dog takes readily to water and, as I discovered later on, is a marvelous swimmer.  Tiger was light gray-blue in color, with dark stripes like those of a tiger.  One of his eyes had a large white spot in it, as if he had a glass eye, or was blind, and except for the fact that this defect made an unfavorable impression when he was angry, his expression could not have been better.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As soon as the Indians reached the river bank near the house with their canoe, my belongings and a bundle of Spanish peppers were placed aboard, and, moving downstream, I began to realize that I would soon be among people of my own kind once more.  For the first time I was conscious of the large bend mad by the Yuba; it seems to be considerably smaller than the Feather River, which it joins below Marysville.  By the time we passed Hock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:Farm the sun had gone down, so we did not stop, but tied up at Nicolaus Allgeier's<ANCHOR ID="n4-18">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-18">Algiers in the MS.  This was Nicolaus Allgeier, who was born in Freiburg, Germany, in 1807, and came to America about 1830, where he worked as a Hudson's Bay Co. trapper.  In 1840 he reached California, and went to work for Sutter.  Two years later he acquired one square mile of land from Sutter on the Feather and Bear rivers, where he built a house.  The place came to be known as Nicolaus.  Its owner operated a ferry from there to Hock Farm, which Sutter used to transport men, animals, and supplies across the river.  In 1921 a modern bridge replaced the antiquated ferry service at Nicolaus.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>My plan was to see Sutter at once and come to some definite understanding with him.  The last letter he had sent through Covillaud was written in a tone I did not like, and I felt that I could not remain in his employ.  As I was about to go and look for him, I saw him at the office door.  He replied to my "Good morning, captain," in a friendly manner, and so I mentioned his last letter in which he placed so much blame on my shoulders, and said very frankly that I preferred to straighten everything out with him without further delay, because it would be impossible to remain with him after receiving a letter in which he blamed me for a number of things without just cause.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In a quiet and friendly voice Sutter said that he had been extremely busy when he wrote, that my letter had just arrived informing him that under no conditions would I remain in Mimal, and that he had inserted words and expressions he should not have used when he was angry.  After asking me not to take it in the wrong spirit, he invited me to have breakfast in the dining room, and then rest for a time before discussing it further.  His words, spoken in a fatherly and kindly voice, had a soothing effect on me, even though I had decided to come to an understanding with him as soon as possible, and leave Sacramento.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Quarters had been assigned me in the northwest tower on the west side of the fort, where I roomed alone.  At the fort I found my old friend, Kyburz.  He had been acting as majordomo, but had not been feeling well for some time, and wanted to go to San Francisco; he thought a change of climate would cure him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Within the next few days I made several attempts to talk to Sutter, but he invariably made the excuse that he was extremely busy, so our settlement was postponed.  At that time I was only slightly acquainted with Sutter; I had many opportunities to know him better before long.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>CAPTAIN SUTTER</P>
078.sgm:<P>About three days after I reached Fort New Helvetia, as Sutter's Fort was then called, Kyburz and Sutter came and asked me to act as overseer for a week or two until the former returned from a visit to San Francisco.<ANCHOR ID="n5-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1a">On September 18, 1847, Lienhard took Kyburz's place.  See <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Since Sutter was addicted to strong alcoholic drink, he believed  everyone else had the same tastes.  Morning after morning, when  I went to his room for the daybook, he urged me to sample his whisky, and he never failed to set me an excellent example.  Anyone who needed anything had first to ask Sutter for it and then come to me, as I was the storekeeper.</P>
078.sgm:<P>During the time his mill was being constructed on the American River, and while his sawmill was being built fifty miles back in the mountains by a man called Marshall,<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: Sutter employed so many men that I had my hands full.  Large quantities of supplies, especially meat and flour, were required for his workmen; usually we killed at least one or two, and often five or six, steers every day.  What meat was required was transported to different points <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">James W. Marshall who came overland in 1845.  He lived at the fort, took part in the war, and assisted Sutter to build a sawmill on the American Fork at Coloma, where gold was found in January.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit., IV, passim</HI>
078.sgm:<P>In addition to the large number of white people in his employ, Sutter also had many mountain Indians whom he used for various purposes.  They were furnished by the various chiefs, who acted as corporals, and to flatter their vanity he called them <HI REND="italics">capitanos</HI>
078.sgm:<P>The way these Indian laborers were fed reminded me of feeding pigs.  They were given cooked wheat that was thrown in troughs; the natives sat in front of these feeding pens and ate the steaming wheat with their dirty hands, stuffing it in their mouths with loud noises that sounded exactly like a flock of cackling geese.  In addition, they were allowed a small amount of beef, which they preferred to eat either in the evening or early in the morning after it was cooked over hot coals.  It seemed to give them keen enjoyment; they bolted the meat greedily, in spite of the ashes that clung to it, and made it an indefinable and shapeless lump.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I had to lock the Indian men and women together in a large room to prevent them from returning to their homes in the mountains at night, and as the room had neither beds nor straw, the inmates were forced to sleep on the bare floor.  When I opened the door for them in the morning, the odor that greeted me was overwhelming, for no sanitary arrangements had been provided.  What these rooms were like after ten days or two weeks can be imagined, and the fact that noctural confinement was not agreeable to the Indians was obvious.  Large numbers deserted during the daytime, or remained outside the fort when the gates were locked.</P>
078.sgm:<P>At this time there were only two white women living inside the fort.  One of them was Mrs. Kyburz, the daughter of my old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:friend, Mr. Barber;<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: she was a neat, industrious woman, and a good housekeeper.  The other was the wife of Keseberg,<ANCHOR ID="n5-4">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: the man who came down to the fort the April before from the Sierra Nevadas.  Everyone said he saved his life by eating the flesh of his fellowmen who had died of cold and starvation; he had a fine, strong constitution, and was a man of considerable intelligence.  Captain Sutter had engaged him to run his schooner that plied regularly between Sacramento and San Francisco carrying wheat to pay his debt, or at least the interest on the amount due, to the Russian agent, Mr. Leidesdorff.<ANCHOR ID="n5-5">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3">Probably John Barber, who was at Monterey in 1847, and subsequently settled in the north.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-4">Louis Keseberg, a Prussian who crossed the Rockies with the ill-fated Donner party and was the last man to be rescued alive.  In 1847 he was Sutter's supercargo and was later employed by Vallejo at Sonoma.  Many unpleasant tales were told about him.  See C. F. McGlashan, <HI REND="italics">History of the Donner Party</HI>
078.sgm: (San Francisco, 1880), <HI REND="italics">passim</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-5">William A. Leidesdorff, a Dane who reached California in 1841 and acted as agent for the Russians at Fort Ross.  He was one of the prominent men at Yerba Buena and is mentioned in the majority of records of that period.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
078.sgm:<P>In the fort Sutter employed as workman a Mormon by the name of Fifield<ANCHOR ID="n5-6">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:, a blacksmith who was skilled in his trade, and another man belonging to this same sect called Hudson,<ANCHOR ID="n5-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-6">Ira or Ezra Fifield, the fort blacksmith who is mentioned throughout the <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-7">Wilford Hudson, a member of the Mormon Battalion, who was at the fort when gold was discovered.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Two of my countrymen, a cabinet-maker from the Canton of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:Appenzell by the name of Schmidt<ANCHOR ID="n5-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who was about forty, and a man called Huggenberger<ANCHOR ID="n5-9">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-8">Jacob Schmidt, a cooper at New Helvetia.  In the MS. the name appears as Schmied.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-9">Huggenberger's name occurs in the <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Invariably I found him a sincere, kindly, and fatherly friend who rejoiced when my affairs progressed smoothly, and who liked to give me sound advice, which I was glad to follow, for I knew that his intentions were of the kindliest, and that he was a man who had had wide experience.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Among Huggenberger's close friends was a man of his own age called Huber,<ANCHOR ID="n5-10">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-10">Henry Huber, a pioneer of 1847.  He had a tinshop in San Francisco on the northwest corner of Washington Square. His advertisement appears in the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>East of the fort Sutter owned a commodious adobe house where several families usually lived until they could find more suitable quarters.  South of the fort he also owned a small house occupied at the time of my arrival by a Dr. Bates,<ANCHOR ID="n5-11">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who practised medicine; he was subsequently joined by a man by the name of Smith,<ANCHOR ID="n5-12">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who claimed to be a relative of Joseph Smith, the Mormon prophet.  After Dr. Bates left, the house was occupied by a Mr. Samuel Brannan,<ANCHOR ID="n5-13">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who went into partnership with Smith and together they opened a small store.  Smith and Brannan were Mormons.  The latter, who was an elder, was one of the Mormons who came around Cape Horn to California, and joined relatives and friends of the same faith who had gone overland via the southerly route.<ANCHOR ID="n5-14">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-11">Dr. Frank, or Franklin, Bates is mentioned constantly in the <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-12">C. C. Smith who came west in 1847 and became Brannan's partner.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-13">Samuel Brannan was a leading Mormon elder who came west in 1846.  His store, Brannan and Co., was a popular rendezvous in Sacramento, and its owner became one of the richest men in California.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-14">Three hundred Mormon volunteers under Lieutenant-Colonel Cooke marched via New Mexico to California to take part in the war.  They were part of the great Mormon movement to found new colonies.  They reached the fort on August 26, 1847, and camped on the American Fork nearby.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>In the early days, Sutter employed Indians as wool spinners and weavers in the fort, but this branch of work was soon abandoned.  His millers, bakers, and cooks were Indians, as were his vaqueros; between twenty and thirty younger Indians were also employed as drivers and field workers.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I know Sutter's wheatfields must have covered several hundred acres of land.  One of them lay south of the fort, and another north.  The largest stretched toward the east or northeast between the so-called Slough and the great bend of the American Fork.  In these fields the soil was extremely fertile, producing good crops of fine white and red wheat, even though the work in the fields was superficially done.  Several of the larger rooms in the east part of the fort were used for storing wheat, which was taken to San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>What wheat flour was used at the fort was ground by several mules in the northwest tower of the fort, but it was neither sifted nor put into sacks.  It was somewhat coarse, and the lazy Indian baker never let his dough raise properly, so in spite of the excellent wheat we had, our bread was usually poor and sour.  It was known as adobe bread because it was as heavy as an adobe brick.  Peas, which everyone liked, were often raised in the smaller fields, as well as wheat.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter's Fort was the main source of supply for the inland valleys, and the local store tried to have everything that was needed on hand.  This was not so difficult as it seemed.  Excluding the last immigration of 1846, the total number of white inhabitants in the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys was less than sixty; however, this number was probably doubled by the construction of the mill, which stimulated activity and brought in many new residents.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After an absence of three weeks or more, Kyburz returned from San Francisco.  I was prepared to give him his keys, but apparently he did not want them, and when Sutter asked me to remain, I stayed on.  Frequently I reminded myself that I should have a better chance to succeed if I were more independent.  Meanwhile, Kyburz remained on at the fort; I do not believe he was still employed there, although he did small chores occasionally.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One evening I had a chance to find out that he considered himself privileged to tell me what to do.  Several men including a gymnastic performer, called Jacob Wittmer,<ANCHOR ID="n5-15">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and an American called Charley Burch,<ANCHOR ID="n5-16">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who was a saddle maker, had congregated; Wittmer and I were discussing something, but our opinions differed.  I considered the matter one that concerned me alone and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-15">Jacob Wittmer or Witmer was a Swiss in Sutter's employ who brought in reports of gold in February, 1848.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-16">Charles H. Burch who was at the fort in 1847 and 1848.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Questioning his right to order me around, I refused to obey him, and said that I would take and execute instructions given only by Sutter.  My words offended Kyburz, who was extremely conceited; he remarked that I would soon find out whether I had to follow his orders.  Apparently he thought he could make an impression on me and hoped I would be intimidated and submit; he was mistaken, however.</P>
078.sgm:<P>To the contrary, I threw the keys of the fort on the ground at his feet telling him to take them, because I would never follow out his instructions.  Since Kyburz had no intention of complying, the tone of his voice, which had been extremely harsh, changed abruptly, so I took the keys back, and said I should like to know definitely whether he expected to give orders in the future, because I planned to speak to Captain Sutter about the matter.  I rapped on Sutter's office door; the hour was late and he did not answer, so I knew he must be asleep.  I decided to find out what I wanted to know the next day, but Kyburz kept quiet; the commander-in-chief had decided not to say anything more to me, apparently.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When I went to get the daybook from Sutter the next morning, the first thing I asked was whether Kyburz was my superior, and whether I had to take orders from him, but the captain said clearly that I was not responsible to anyone else and was to get my instructions from him alone.  After I described our dispute of the previous evening and said I had tried to tell him about it at the time but that he had retired, and had failed to answer when I knocked on his door, he laughed and remarked that he knew all about it, but did not wish to be drawn into an argument, especially when everything seemed to be quiet again.</P>
078.sgm:<P>While crossing the plains I had become fairly well acquainted with Kyburz.  His father-in-law, Mr. Barber, also told me several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>When there was anything he wanted for his own personal benefit, he tried to secure it by flattery; he seemed to feel that he profited by being antagonistic, by eavesdropping, and by carrying tales.  With the exception of performing several small tasks outside the fort, he never exerted himself.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As I have already said, Sutter liked his liquor; for some time, however, I had no idea he drank as much as he did.  Soon I had an opportunity to become better acquainted with his habits, and it was during my second week at the fort, I believe, that I saw him walking with an unsteady, swaying motion which left no doubt as to his condition.</P>
078.sgm:<P>At that time I inferred that such attacks occurred only at rare intervals, and since he was the owner of the fort and a man already well along in years as well as one of my countrymen, I considered it my duty to take him inside while he was in such a condition.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Seizing one of his arms, I told him he needed rest and sleep, and upon reaching his room, I removed his outer garments and put him to bed.  I hoped rest would prove beneficial, that no one had seen him, and that this would not happen again, but to my surprise, in another week or so, I discovered that Sutter was again drinking heavily.  Once more I took him to his room and put him to bed.  Then I began to suspect that this condition was not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Apparently he had been drinking, and in an ugly temper had thrown the dishes and plates off the table, breaking most of them.  It was then that I learned from acquaintances, who had known Sutter for a longer time and more intimately that I, that he was often intoxicated.  They said, too, that after I had been there longer, I would have many opportunities to see him drunk.  I remarked how much Sutter had lowered himself in my estimation, and said that I could never respect a man who drank oftener and more than was dignified.  I pitied him, for at the time it appeared to be his worst trait, but I soon discovered by coming into contact with him every day that he had other equally unfortunate characteristics, which were just as bad, if not worse, than his immoderate drinking.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Men meeting and talking with Sutter for the first time were favorably impressed by his candid, handsome countenance; his dignified and fatherly manner of speaking inspired a definite trust.  He made such a fine impression on me that it required a long time and many disappointments before this favorable feeling left me, and I saw him as he actually was.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In the anteroom adjoining his office, a group of Indian women were invariably waiting.  According to rumor, they belonged to Sutter's harem.  One of them was his favorite; I was told she was kept there all the time.  At first it seemed odd to meet young Indian girls of ten or twelve who had once belonged to this harem outside the fort, and then to learn later that they were ill, or had died.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I have never forgotten two pretty little girls of eleven or twelve whom I first saw in Sutter's anteroom.  Soon the most attractive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:of the two failed to come and play with the other.  Then I learned that she had been taken ill in Dr. Bates's absence, that Mr. McKinstry,<ANCHOR ID="n5-17">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-17">George McKinstry, sheriff at Sutter's Fort in 1846, was a well-known figure in public life.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>An influential squaw who lived in Sutter's anteroom at that time had a sister who had married a native of Tahiti, called John.  John, who spoke English quite fluently, was a close friend of Charley Burch, and told the latter what the favorite had told her sister about the sudden death of the young girl; the child had been criminally attacked, and the person who could give the most information about the identity of the culprit was Sutter himself.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Everyone knew Sutter was a typical Don Juan with women.  In addition to the large number of young Indian girls who were constantly at his beck and call, there were also in the fort many young Indian loafers who rarely worked, but were fed and nicely clothed because their wives received special consideration from the master of the fort.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When Sutter left the Sandwich Islands, he was accompanied by a number of Kanakas, among them two or three women.  For some time these Kanakas were his only companions.  They accompanied him when he made his first trip up the Sacramento and American rivers to the landing place where the tannery was subsequently built.  Among them was a woman called Manawitte,<ANCHOR ID="n5-18">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: by whom he is reported to have had several children and who appears to have lived many years with him as his wife.  A man known as Kanaka Harry was one of his favorites from the Sandwich Islands.  As he grew older Sutter seemed to prefer young Indian girls and finally gave Manawitte to Harry who was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-18">Sutter called her Manaiki or Manuiki.  Lienhard uses the form Manawitte.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I heard another story about an episode that occurred a few days before I reached the fort, which nearly proved disastrous to Sutter.  Twenty miles south of the fort on the Cosumnes River several settlers lived; among them was Bill Daylor,<ANCHOR ID="n5-19">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-19">William Daylor was an English sailor who deserted his ship in 1835.  After Sutter's Fort was founded he was employed there.  In 1844 he moved to his own ranch southeast of the fort.  He died of cholera in 1850.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Having one of his workmen, a poor ex-sailor, for a rival did not please Sutter, and to show his power and authority, and to prevent any more episodes of this kind, he decided to make an example of Bill Daylor.  The man, he felt, deserved a good lesson and, without taking anyone into his confidence, he waited for an opportune moment to arise.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One day when Bill, who was quite oblivous to Sutter's plots, returned to the fort, he was surrounded by a group of Indians and Kanakas who had been told to seize him.  Now Bill was a typical Englishman and a sailor; he also knew how to box.  Ignorant of Sutter's enmity, yet he refused to surrender without a fight, and at first the Indians were so frightened that they refused to touch him.  When they did attempt to get hold of him, Daylor gave each native a terrific beating with his strong fists.  At last, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>For a few days Sutter chained and imprisoned Daylor in one of the towers, then sent him, still bound, to Governor Alvarado at Monterey for trial.  When the governor learned the true reason why Sutter had Daylor confined and why he had been treated in this manner, he released the prisoner and gave his captor a sharp reprimand, telling him that such treatment for slight offenses must not occur again.  From then on Sutter lived in abject fear of Daylor, who said he would kill him, and if the captain's story is true, he and several of his friends armed with large knives once entered his room, and threatened to take his life.  At the time I was living at the fort, he and Sutter seemed to be on friendly terms again, although the latter, I believe, was still afraid of the English sailor.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Also among Sutter's employees was an Indian vaquero whose wife had a white child whom she exhibited with considerable pride.  One day I asked the woman if Sutter was the father of the boy; and she laughed with delight.  If the captain had many half-breed children, I do not know of any who survived, and the native woman's white baby died not long after.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In his social relations, especially toward women, Sutter was extremely punctilious.  He dressed well, his hair was especially neat, and he had all the earmarks of a gentleman.  I owned a pair of black trousers he wanted to buy, and I knew I would not have any peace until I complied with his request.  Finally I said I would sell them for sixteen dollars, and, much to my surprise, the captain paid this amount in cash.  But his hips were larger than mine, and the first day he wore the trousers they split when he sat down and leaned over suddenly.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When I brought the daybook for Sutter to inspect every evening, I often found him entertaining visitors.  Mormon tanners were among those who paid frequent visits to his office in the early days.  Knowing that the chief was extremely vain, the head <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Passing to another domestic picture; the method used to thrash wheat at Sutter's Fort was new to me, although it was somewhat like that used when I was at Highland.<ANCHOR ID="n5-20">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-20">Lienhard had worked on a farm near Highland, Illinois, before coming west.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Any horse that showed signs of fatigue would be taken out, and a fresh one substituted.  Thus the threshing proceeded at a rapid pace.  Naturally, some horse manure became mixed with the wheat, but this as well as any other foreign matter could be removed by a strong wind or a cleaning machine.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter had so many white men and Indians in his employ that slaughtering took place every day.  Once the captain bought a herd of thirty-five fat steers from Sinclair, and placed them in the south corral on the east side of the fort.  These cattle were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>An adobe wall stretching from east to west divided the corral into two parts; the southern area was further separated into two sections by a similar partition that ran from south to north.  In it openings had been left through which shots could be fired or cattle driven in an emergency.  While a crowd from the fort congregated to watch the fun, the new herd was driven into the corral, and when more animals were needed, a vaquero went inside and fired at two of them.  A single shot in the forehead brought a steer to the ground, but the balance of the herd were so terrified by this strange noise that when they discovered they could not escape they showed their rage and anger over the shooting of their comrades by hideous bellows.  They gouged the two bulls that had been shot with their horns, and rolled them over and over until vaqueros arrivedbringing ropes.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Crying " <HI REND="italics">upah, upah</HI>
078.sgm:<P>One day I was standing with an Indian on top of the adobe wall, which was some six feet high, watching the antics of the angry bulls.  It seemed like a safe place, but one of the wildest animals spied us and approached.  Shaking his head, he swished his tail and, fire in his eyes, opened his mouth as if he intended to devour us; his threats merely amused us, however, and the Indian began to tease the bull who made a sudden rush for us.  When I saw his head and horns only a short distance below our feet on the adobe wall, I was so terrified that I nearly fell over on top of his horns.  Mustering all my presence of mind, I jumped to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:the ground behind the corral wall.  Wild cattle afforded endless excitement, and at times actual danger.<ANCHOR ID="n5-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1b">A brief section of folio 119 containing more details about lassoing cattle has been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The way horses were tamed was also interesting to me.  Horses, like cattle, were turned loose when young, and given full freedom to find pasturage which they soon located, then several times during the year they were put into small corrals, and those that had not already been marked were branded.  After large numbers of horses were driven in, the rancheros arrived to claim their animals.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As every branding-iron had to be registered, and no two brands were alike, thievery and dishonesty were checked.  I had my own branding-iron made and registered; it was four inches long, and consisted of the three first letters of my name, which were welded together.  The iron was registered in the office of the alcade, Sinclair.  Brands were used both for cattle and horses, and the owner usually stamped his mark on the right flank so deeply that it burned into the skin.  If properly done, it could be recognized anywhere.  This method of branding established the fact that the animal so marked was owned by the particular man under whose name the brand was registered.  If the first owner sold an animal branded in this manner, it was his duty to mark it on the same side of the front shoulder, indicating that it had been sold.  If the new owner also had a branding-iron, he branded the animal on its rear flank above the former mark, or in any other place he might select.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Once or twice a year herds were driven together for branding.  Colts were confined until the red hot iron had left a clear mark, but young stallions not to be used for breeding purposes were castrated, and then given full freedom for two or three years.  In addition young geldings and mares that were to be broken to the saddle were selected from the herd of horses, driven into a corral, and tied, but at this time they were so wild and so easily terrified <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Horses, like people, varied considerably in disposition.  Some were readily broken; others required effort, care, and patience; many animals were stubborn and preferred to break their necks, or to die of strarvation rather than give in.  The older the animal, the more difficult it was to handle.  Unusually obstinate ones were tied and left alone, often for several days, without food, or until such a time as their futile attempts to break loose and lack of anything to eat had made them very weak.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Finally a brave vaquero tried to get near one of them.  If the horse still seemed wild, its eyes would be bound once more, and a strong rope fastened around its body.  The vaquero jumped on its back, took a strong halter in his hands, pressed his knees tightly against the rope and the body of the animal, and removed the bandage from its eyes; usually the horse attempted to throw the rider by bucking and swaying from side to side, but if the vaquero had been well-trained, he stayed on.  If the horse proved obstreperous, and refused to obey the wishes of the rider, the vaquero attempted to ride the horse either in plowed ground or some kind of soft soil where the horse was forced to gallop until it was exhausted and would go wherever its rider directed.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I saw many horses brought in after their first lesson that were covered with sweat and foam, and were trembling all over.  They were turned loose again, but were brought back within two or three weeks, and if any still proved stubborn, they were forced to submit to the same hard work.  After such an experience, a horse was more tractable and seemed to remember its first lesson when it was brought out the second time, and if one of them attempted to shake off its rider, it did not make as much of an effort as it had before.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>A horse was usually tame after it had been saddled and bridled for the third time; it was acquainted with its rider, and knew that it must submit as a servant.  Usually it had discovered, too, that its master intended to be its friend, that he praised and patted it, although he kept the bridle firmly in hand, for if he held it care-lessly the horse might rear, lower its head, and throw off the rider, perhaps injuring him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Rancheros told me it was always advisable for the equestrian to hold the bridle with a firm grip, for if the horse that had been trained only a short time never had a chance to put its head between its front legs when it was young, later it would not be tempted to do so.  After the fourth lesson some animals were tame enough to ride, but others had to be taught a fifth time.  Methods used to tame horses differed with vaqueros.  Fillies of tame mares, I often noticed, were soon broken for riding if they were coaxed and petted.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In the early days, twenty-five mares and one stallion were called a <HI REND="italics">caballeriza</HI>
078.sgm:.  A stallion kept his mares near him, and would not allow one of them to leave the <HI REND="italics">caballeriza</HI>
078.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n5-21">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-21">Meaning a stable, or number of horses.  In California the term commonly used was a <HI REND="italics">manada .</HI>
078.sgm:<P>To go back to my experiences at the fort.  After my arrival from Mimal in June, I made a deal with Sutter, giving him my double-barreled gun for a handsome California saddle adorned with fine embroidery and cut work.  Charley Burch, who was living in the fort and who shared my room, spent his time making saddles, and one was designed for me.  The necessary leather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:straps and buckles, as well as my own leggings, were ordered from an elderly man called Morris, or Morrison<ANCHOR ID="n5-22">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-22">Probably the Samuel Norris mentioned in the <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<P>When I urged him to finish my saddle, Morris explained that it was ready, but said that Sutter owed him so much money that he did not want my equipment to leave his hands until it had been paid for, since he had not be able to rely on Sutter's promises, and knew him too well to depend on his word.  I realized I would be forced to pay part of the cost myself to secure possession of it, and so persuaded Morris to give me the saddle.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Because I had heard any number of people complain and talk resentfully about the poor credit that Sutter was, and how he tried to smooth everything over with soft words, I now began to suspect he would not treat me any better than he did anyone else, especially after I had to pay for my saddle out of my own pocket with what little money I had.  The outlook did not appear promising for the return of my back wages, and I decided to attempt to collect it in some other way; even if I did not receive cash, anything was better than nothing at all.  Sutter had some fine, well-broken stallions on his ranch that could be purchased for twenty-five dollars apiece, gentle mules valued at thirty dollars, and dray mares that sold for fifteen dollars each, and I decided to take them.  They were worth what he asked, and this was the price usually paid.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter may have been dissatisfied with me, but he still owed me the greater part of my salary and, according to our agreement, he should have paid me once a month in cash.  A few days after I had secured the saddle, Sutter gave me gold to replace what I had paid Morris, and so my respect for him returned.  Rumors that Sutter was hard pressed by the Russians, to whom he owed several thousand dollars, and that they had impounded all his land, continued to circulate.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Such reports were general and were heard day after day.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>VISITS TO NATIVE VILLAGES</P>
078.sgm:<P>A city was laid out four miles southwest of the fort on high ground near a deep lagoon a mile back from the Sacramento River, a location considered safe from floods, by the captain; he called it Sutterville.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1a">In the fall of 1849 lots in the town of Sutter were offered for sale.  Its promoters offered "a town beautifully situated upon the east bank of the Sacramento, within about two miles of Sutter's Fort, having a fine road leading therefrom direct to the mining region, and is some six miles nearer the mines by this road."  <HI REND="italics">The Pacific News</HI>
078.sgm:<P>In those days Sutter's Fort was not considered desirable for a town site and before gold was discovered no one thought of founding a permanent settlement there.  Sutterville seemed a wise choice for a new city, and Captain Hastings, as well as two or three other men who called themselves captains, induced Sutter to have plans made in accordance with their ideas.  I was tempted to buy a few lots myself and became so enthusiastic over the idea that I finally acquired several, selecting those that were considered the choicest, but I cannot recall whether I had eight or twelve, or how much I paid for them.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Mr. Bray,<ANCHOR ID="n6-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: Sutter's Irish assistant overseer, sold me a sturdy claiborne mare, accustomed to teamwork, for twenty-five dollars, and I gave him an order on Sutter for that amount with which he seemed satisfied.  Fifield made me a pair of handsome spurs trimmed with bells, which Sutter agreed to compensate him for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-2a">Edmund Bray, who came west with the Elisha Stevens party in 1844.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I had discussed my financial status with Charley Burch several times, and had told him that in order to get my money back I intended to say that I was expecting to leave for Oregon soon.  Charley seemed friendly, but I am afraid he told the deceitful Kyburz what my real purpose was.  Meanwhile, I dropped a few hints to Sutter to let him know I expected to leave for Oregon in the fall or spring, so he would really think I intended to go.  One day I caught him smiling in a skeptical manner, and it was then that I began to suspect that Kyburz, or possibly Burch himself, had disclosed my little plot.  However, I acted as if I were in earnest, but simply was not in any hurry to purchase horses for the trip, and so was staying on at the fort.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Construction of the mill and sawmill<ANCHOR ID="n6-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-3a">In August, 1847, Sutter made a contract with James Marshall to build a sawmill on the American Fork.  Lumber was to be floated downstream, from the mill to the fort.  A grist mill with a capacity of forty bushels an hour was also started at Natoma, and plans made to ship flour to San Francisco.  These mills were known as "Sutter's Follies."</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>One little incident that occurred near Mimal I recall.  I had received a letter from the captain, telling me to send an Indian messenger to Mr. Smith with the short note he enclosed, so I asked an Indian who was standing nearby to deliver the letter.  He refused.  Overhearing our conversation, Nye told me I did not know how to handle natives; he advised me to tell the Indian exactly what I wanted done, whether he would be paid or not and, if he refused, to force him to follow instructions.  So I handed the note to the Indian again, and told him to deliver it to Mr. Smith immediately; he obeyed without comment.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>This incident taught me a lesson.  In my capacity of overseer I decided not to make requests, but to give orders and uphold the dignity of my position.  Certain obstacles had to be overcome.  When slaughtering took place, I noticed that the choicest pieces of meat disappeared rapidly toward the rear of the fort.  Having discovered that this was being done without Sutter's permission, I knew he wanted it stopped, so the next time some animals were killed I kept an eye on the Indians.  They did not know I was watching them, for I pretended to be occupied with other matters.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Soon the Indians began to sneak to the rear of the fort with large pieces of meat.  I cornered them where they could not escape, and made them return their plunder to the meat room, slapping their thick, vermin-infested heads.  After this was repeated a few times, they began to regard the theft of meat as an unpleasant and unprofitable pastime, and so abandoned it.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1b">More details about fort thievery, found in folio 120, are omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Our bakery was always being looted, too.  Often, after bread had been made, I saw Indians leaving the room carrying large bundles.  I began to watch, and one day when the bread was about to be taken from the oven, I sat where I could see every door that led outside.  I confiscated one large package being carried off by a huge, overgrown boy, and thrashed him soundly.  He was an indolent, lazy lad whose wife, according to fort gossip, was one of Sutter's favorites.  Another time a boy, who seemed innocent, was stopped merely because he was the last to leave the premises; his name was Konnock<ANCHOR ID="n6-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-4a">Possibly the Comock mentioned in the <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<P>One day Sutter came to see me.  Confined in the east tower was an Indian, who was charged with having murdered another of his race and Sutter asked me to provide the man with bread and water.  I told him he could trust me to give the captive three loaves of bread and one bucket of water every day.  Usually I took food and water to the prisoner in the tower as soon as our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>One morning I forgot the Indian; it must have been ten o'clock at least before I remembered him.  Taking the bread and pail of water, I rushed over to the tower.  But when I opened the door I could not find the prisoner anywhere; there was no trace of him except a large pile of fresh, damp earth, and a deep hole in the ground that extended east under the wall of the tower through which a little daylight was visible.  The Indian had soaked the ground with water to make it soft, then worked industriously, digging his way to freedom.  Amazed that he could squeeze himself through so small an opening, I hurried back to the captain, and told him that his bird had flown.  Laughing, he said he had heard all about it early that morning.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter owned eleven or twelve hundred sheep that were driven into a corral at night, where shepherds were supposed to remain with them to prevent coyotes from dining on lamb chops.  These keepers often left the sheep unprotected, for they did not believe that wild animals could break into the well-enclosed corral.</P>
078.sgm:<P>But coyotes are remarkably shrewd creatures, and seemed to have agreed among themselves that sheep meat would taste just as delicious inside the corral as it did outside.  Hunger will lead a coyote to attempt almost unbelievable feats, even to jumping high walls, and so much damage was done that finally the Indians did not dare leave the sheep alone after dark.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One night the coyote tribe, unaware that the shepherds had remained with the flock, decided to enjoy another nocturnal feast and accordingly invited all their relatives to join in the hunt.  Usually they were most alert and quick to sense danger, but this time they were careless.  As they were about to pounce on the dumb, defenseless sheep, Indians brandishing heavy clubs attacked the intruders, killing three coyotes.  The rest escaped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Refuse from animals that had been slaughtered near the fort attracted crowds of coyotes that came in such numbers that I am convinced they arrived through holes in the ground, or openings in the wall that were used for drainage.  The dogs grew so restless that they followed the trail of the nocturnal marauders night after night.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Other four-legged visitors occasionally appeared at the fort.  Although not clever like coyotes, yet they were even less welcome.  As Sutter's meathouse had formerly been a distillery, several large copper kettles had been left there after the business had bee abandoned as unprofitable.  One day some Indians pointed to one of the kettles and told me to look; they led the way in complete silence, while I, full of curiosity, followed.  Inside were three live skunks, that looked up at us shyly.  Since we did not tease them they did not give off their disagreeable odor.<ANCHOR ID="n6-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-2b">Omission in folio 121 describing skunks at the fort.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>One day a large, affable Scotsman paid me a visit; his name was McKee, or McKinsey,<ANCHOR ID="n6-5">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-5">James McKee was murdered by B. K. Thompson, an American miner whom he had befriended at Stockton, in January, 1848.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Our alcalde, Mr. Sinclair, and another Scotsman left to capture the murderer, investigate the case, and arrange for a trial by jury.  Mr. McKinstry, who was appointed temporary sheriff by Sinclair, tried to find a jury, and instructed Morris, Kyburz, and me to serve on it.  Others summoned were Fifield, Hudson, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Only a few clues as to why the man had been murdered had been uncovered, but Morris, Kyburz, and I all thought the defendant should be declared guilty.  A man called Burch, whom I had met at Cordua's and whom I considered a decent chap, had been canvassing the country trying to find out what men had been picked for a jury, and when he discovered who they were, he went to each one and demanded that he acquit the accused at the trial.  He came to me, too, and told me to vote "not guilty."</P>
078.sgm:<P>When I began to understand that I was dealing with a group of law-breakers, I lost all desire to serve on the jury, where a man was not entitled to express his own opinion without being in danger of losing his life.  The day before the trial McKinstry gave me some medicine, instructing me to take it the day the veredict was to be given.<ANCHOR ID="n6-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<P>Later I learned that every man on the jury, except Morris and Kyburz, voted "not guilty."  That day my two friends were told that their lives were in danger, and that they would have to pay the penalty for voting as they did.  I had often heard the Mormons complain about how they had been persecuted in Independence and Nauvoo, and I felt profoundly sorry for them.  When I first came to know them, I did not consider Mormons worse than other men, but this trial, with its accompanying threats and questionable conduct on the part of the Latter Day Saints, turned me against them.</P>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-3b">Brief section in folio 121 omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Finally Sutter decided to replace Mr. Keseberg, captain of his schooner, because so many passengers complained that the boat traveledso slowly down the river that when they ran out of food the captain, who was accustomed to human flesh, might kill <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:passengers who were asleep and eat them.<ANCHOR ID="n6-6">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: My own feeling is that Sutter invented this story himself; Keseberg may not have cared to remain on the schooner and probably asked him to find another man for the place.  The captain asked me to take charge of the boat soon after I reached the fort, but I did not want the responsibility of making this monotonous trip in winter, and knew that life on the schooner would be far from pleasant.<ANCHOR ID="n6-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-6">Keseberg was believed to have kept himself alive on human flesh during the winter he lived in the mountains.  See <HI REND="italics">supra</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-7">He took charge of Sutter's schooner on December 27.  See <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<P>For many years Sutter had guaranteed to make payments in wheat to the Russians at the fort to whom he had owed money, and they were pressing him constantly for settlement.<ANCHOR ID="n6-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-8">Russian traders settled on the coast north of San Francisco at Bodega Bay in 1812.  Fort Ross, an agricultural and fur-trading settlement for supplying food and merchandise for the large Russian colony at Sitka, Alaska, was established, and abandoned in 1841.  Sutter acquired the property and moved implements, buildings, and livestock to his fort.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit., passim</HI>
078.sgm:, various accounts relating to Fort Ross in <HI REND="italics">Cal. Hist. Soc. Quarterly</HI>
078.sgm:, Vol. XII, No. 3, Sept. 1933; and <HI REND="italics">Duflot de Mofras' Travels on the Pacific Coast</HI>
078.sgm:<P>I was told, too, that the captain was heavily involved with a California ranchero from whom he had bought cattle, and although much of this gossip may not have been true, yet I do <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Undoubtedly Sutter's Russian debt was his heaviest burden.  His creditors believed his idle promises for a time, then they decided to take a firm stand and insist on a settlement.  Fortunately the gold discovery made a radical change for the better in the captain's financial status, and everyone believed that without this good luck he could not have survived much longer.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In December I decided to press Sutter for payment and to accept instead of cash, horses, which he was willing to give me from Hock Farm, where his friend, Kanaka Harry from the Sandwich Islands who had married his former favorite, Manawitte, was living at the time.  Harry, he said, would let me have any animals I wanted, because I was taking them in at top prices.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Accompanied by Kyburz, I went to Hock Farm.  Whether he came along voluntarily or not, or whether Sutter asked him to go, I do not know.  Charley Burch also joined us,--to look over the country apparently.  By the time we had passed Allgeier's ranch and crossed the Feather River, which our horses had to swim over, it was almost dark.  Kyburz and Burch had gone on ahead and in an effort to overtake them, I urged my mare to a gallop, but the ground was so full of holes that my animal fell, throwing me into the sand and underbrush.  Neither the horse nor I was hurt; I got up and soon rejoined my two comrades.</P>
078.sgm:<P>From the point where we forded the river to Hock Farm, the distance was approximately twelve miles.  The trail led over level ground along the river bank near the forest and, when dry, was pleasant to travel over.  As the moon began to rise in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<illus entity="a078-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CAPTAIN SUTTER'S HOME ON THE FEATHER RIVER. FROM <HI REND="italics">Das Burgdorfer Jabrbuch. 1935</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>As we approached, several dogs began to bark; upon dismounting near the house a pack of them surrounded us in a threatening manner.  One medium-sized dog rushed at me so violently that I expected to be bitten, but it merely licked my face and kept wagging its tail with joy.  Then I recognized my loyal friend, Tiger, the pet I had given to Mr. Burns when he took my place at Mimal.<ANCHOR ID="n6-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-4b">Discussion in folio 121 of Lienhard's dog has been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I had received instructions from Sutter, who had been appointed Indian agent, to take a census of the natives living along the Feather River from the point where it descends from the mountains down to Hock Farm.  Two Indian lads from the ranch were appointed to act as interpreters.  One was a Snake Indian who knew only a little English; the other belonged to a Feather River tribe and knew all the local dialects.  His task was to talk with the villagers, and repeat the information to the Snake Indian, who was to translate it into English for my benefit.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The next day only a few horses were brought to Hock Farm; I noticed Kyburz talking confidentially to Harry several times and began to understand why I could not find any good horses that had been properly trained and broken in.  However, I selected what I thought were the two best geldings, worth twenty-five dollars apiece.  I had not said anything about brood mares, but they brought me two fairly strong animals; I accepted them on the spot, to the annoyance of Kyburz, who had intended to persuade me to take poor stock.  After asking for a sound mule that had been broken in, I was shown a good one three or four years old; the mule had never had a saddle on its back, however, and when anyone tried to approach, it began to kick and bite.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Harry promised to train the mule, which I paid thirty dollars for, but I do not know whether he did or not.  My claiborne mare was left at the farm until my return from taking the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:Indian census, and I rode the strong white horse I had just purchased.  After crossing the Feather River and fording the Yuba a short distance below my old house in Mimal, we reached Cordua's ranch the first day.  Kyburz and Burch accompanied me that far, but the next day I rode alone from village to village with my Indian interpreters.  I began to work at the upper Yuba villages on the left bank of the Feather River.<ANCHOR ID="n6-9">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-9">The Indian villages of Deitchera, Boga, Honcut, Yuba, Mimal, Hock, and Seshum stretched along Rio de las Plumas, or Feather River.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>At each settlement I asked first what the place was called, and the names of the first, second, and third chiefs, if it were large enough to have more than one leader.  I made a record of the way the names sounded to me in German in my book, then read them out loud to the Indians, who held their hands up in front of their mouths and tried not to laugh.  My second question was "How many men live in this village?"  To this query the Indians replied by taking several dried reeds and, starting at one end of the village, repeated the name of each man's hut.  Each time they counted they broke off a small piece of reed; at the last hut they gave me the broken pieces to count and record.  By using the same method to check women and children, my work progressed smoothly, and we stayed only a short time in each place.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One noon, as we were fording a shallow area of the Feather River, our Snake Indian, Sam, pointed to the ground of a small island we were crossing and said, "Bear tracks."  We looked down, and saw prints that had been made only a short time before.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The next village on our route was the largest we had visited so far, and as we approached we noticed that the roofs of the most commodious winter huts were covered with naked Indians.  After dismounting, our young interpreters began to ask the routine questions, but the natives did not seem to understand what we wanted, or why we asked these things; one tall Indian dressed in a shirt was unusually inquisitive, and wanted to know who sent us to make such inquiries.  He was one of the three leading chiefs of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Another small settlement stood approximately four miles below the point where the Feather River comes down from the mountains; but I was told that all the Indians from there had congregated at this other village, and that it would be unnecessary to ride on further, so I prepared my report for that village as if I had actually been there.  I was keenly interested in the crowd that had gathered, and learned that a large dance, in which Indians from neighboring villages were to participate, would be held that evening.  We were invited to watch the fun.  Eager as our interpreters were to accept this invitation, yet memories of garments infested with lice from too close contact with Indians were sufficient to prevent my attendance.</P>
078.sgm:<P>On the return trip we waded through the river, where we had crossed before, the Indians having told us that the trail along the right bank, although wide, was not good.  By the time we reached the ford that led to the villages on the right bank, it was dark.  The river was deep at this point, so Sam and I rode on ahead; the Indian made several detours with his horse, however, but I did not follow him closely, and soon found myself foundering in deep water through which my horse had to swim, and where the water came up to my waist.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Following Sam I soon reached shallow water again, where my horse had a firm footing.  Suddenly the horse struck a submerged tree stump with its left flank, leaped out of the water several times in fright, passed the rider ahead of me, rushed toward the shallow bank ahead, and in a few jumps was on land again.  I was drenched with water and my pistol, the only weapon I carried, was quite wet.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Damp and weary we did not arrive at the next village until dusk, but the Mimal Indian and I were so eager to reach a warm fire that we continued to follow the trail.  Our next camp proved to be one occupied by the Suisuns, where the Indian, whose leg I had injured with my bullet, lived; from there it was three miles to the next group of primitive dwellings--the last settlement.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As we approached the moon was rising, so we rode in among the round huts, and began work at once.  While we were counting the men Laggott's name was mentioned; I asked if this was the man I had once shot, and was told that it was the same person, so I asked where he lived.  Having located his hut, I called and called to him to come out.  Although there was a light inside, yet he did not move.  The villagers told me he was still angry because I had shot him.  I explained to them that he had no right to steal fruit in my garden after all the warnings I had given the Indians, and that he should be grateful to me for not having shot him in the stomach and killed him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After the day's work was over, I galloped by the light of the moon toward Hock Farm.  As closely as I could figure, the distance covered that day was some sixty miles.  Riding in wet clothing at a rapid pace in the cool night air had made me very uncomfortable.  I was extremely hungry, as well, not having had anything to eat since early morning, and one side of my saddle had rubbed my leg badly.  We were glad indeed to reach our destination, and, after a hot meal and a brief rest by a crackling fire, I retired too exhausted to sleep soundly.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The next morning I counted the Indians at Hock Farm, recorded the results of my work on a piece of paper, and then left immediately for the fort.  Kyburz and Burch, who had been waiting for me, now crossed to the opposite bank of the Feather River, taking with them the animals I had purchased, while I followed its right bank as far as Allgeier's place.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In the spring when I traveled up the Feather River for the first time, I had discovered a large Indian settlement on a bend of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>As the weather had turned sunny and warm once more, the trip to Nicolaus Allgeier's house, although twelve miles, did not seem long; my horse showed signs of fatigue, however, and when we crossed the Feather River at Allgeier's where the current was broad and deep, I had to hold its head out of the water to keep it from drowning.  Once the animal stopped swimming, and we had to pull it over to the side of the canoe.  Not long after I reached Nicolaus, Kyburz came in, so we rode on together along the route south of the prairie toward Sutter's Fort.  My horse had difficulty keeping up with the others, and the further I traveled the more convinced I became that I had been cheated with the connivance of Kyburz himself.</P>
078.sgm:<P>By the time we left the trail we had been following, the sun was already moving toward the west.  My two comrades, driving the loose animals ahead, left the uneven track, and took a path leading right that crossed a shallow ford of the American River and cut off several miles to the fort.  Worn out, my gelding had by now dropped a few miles behind; I realized it could not keep up with the other animals, and as I did not wish to force it, I decided to walk for a time.  Following the directions my comrades had taken, I found the water at the crossing only two feet deep.  At dusk the fort came into sight.  Although my sore leg was now badly inflamed, swollen, and quite painful, and the three-day trip had proved strenuous, yet I attended to business as usual.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>WORKING FOR SUTTER</P>
078.sgm:<P>Many interesting things took place while I was overseer at the fort.  One day a lanky little man in his forties came up, and spoke to me in English I could not understand.  After a few questions, I began to suspect him of being German; so I tried that.  Hearing him reply in his broad dialect convinced me he was one of my own Swiss countrymen.  He proved to be Mr. Abeck,<ANCHOR ID="n7-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: from Arth, Canton of Schwyz, a blacksmith by profession and, incidentally, the father of the same little Anton Abeck thought to be an orphan, who was living with the Leders on the Rigi near Highland when I was there, and had been raised by them.  It was Abeck's first visit to the fort.  For many years he had been living at Santa Fe, New Mexico, and had also been a mountaineer, but the Arapahoes had stolen his mules, so he was not on friendly terms with them, and because God had allowed this to occur, he had lost faith in Him.  He had had an interview with Sutter and hoped to secure a laborer's job at his mills.<ANCHOR ID="n7-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1a">Franc&cedil;ois Abeck was a Swiss who was employed by Sutter at the fort.  He was one of the first gold miners in the west.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1b">Unimportant details in folios 122 and 123 about Abeck's early life and his own illness have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>About this time rumors began to circulate that sixty or eighty white men had congregated somewhere on the San Joaquin, and that their object was wholesale thievery.  It was current gossip that these men had robbed a Spanish ranchero of his entire herd of cattle and horses, fourteen hundred head in all, and that anyone falling into their hands would be relieved of his saddle, horse, clothes, and weapons.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I was also told that the outlaws planned to visit the Sacramento Valley and drive off many of the horses and cattle owned by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:rich rancheros.  Since there were only about forty or fifty pioneers and livestock owners along the Cosumnes and in the Sacramento Valley and these were scattered over an area some two hundred miles in extent, if a band of sixty well-armed and mounted riders appeared to rob them, the marauders would meet with but comparatively slight opposition.  Moreover, if all of these highwaymen were like Jim Savage,<ANCHOR ID="n7-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: the brigands would inflict heavy losses.<ANCHOR ID="n7-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-2a">Jim Savage, leader of these horse-robbers, had recently visited Lienhard in his room at the fort, and removed one of his prized knives.  MS. folio 123.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-2b">Brief omission in folio 123.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>That a number of our Monterey volunteers, including Jim Savage and some of his accomplices, were in this band, was my personal belief; as events subsequently proved, Savage was actually leader of this group, and the man who killed the Scotsman, McKee, and who was declared not guilty, was its leading spirit.  Apparently Burch belonged to this band, too.  Although rumors of the existence of this group and their pending visit to the Sacramento Valley had caused considerable anxiety, yet no move was made to organize and oppose the robbers when they did arrive.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Now that Christmas was over, Sutter's schooner that lay alongside the landing place was being loaded with a fresh cargo of wheat.  Keseberg had either resigned his position as captain of the schooner or, as Sutter tried to make me believe, was discharged.  The latter, together with Kyburz, urged me to take charge of the boat but, as I have already said, I had no desire to assume this post, and did not give much weight to his words, because I had very little faith in his sincerity.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Naturally Sutter did everything in his power to paint this new position in its most attractive light.  While he knew I did not like the idea, nevertheless he persuaded me to make a trial trip, promising I could leave if I chose after the first one.  On the twenty-eighth or twenty-ninth of December, 1847, I was informed that everything was ready.  Mouet<ANCHOR ID="n7-3">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: had taken my place as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-3">John Mouet who was at Sutter's Fort and the mines in 1847 and 1848.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>My crew consisted of six Indian sailors, one of whom ran away several miles below Sacramento.  The leader of these Indians was called Jacob; he was a strong Indian with broad shoulders.  Several dark lines had been tattoed on his chin, and his complexion was unusually black.  Jacob was an intelligent boy, who was fully competent to be captain of our boat, and seemed to know how to operate it, whereas I did not know anything about schooners.  Among the passengers carried were Keseberg and his wife and a young man who later made the trip with me to New York in 1849; Keseberg intended to get off at Benicia and go on to Sonoma from there.</P>
078.sgm:<P>For a time the wind was light and the trip down the bay progressed at a leisurely pace.  The sky, which was overcast, finally cleared.  Near the big lagoon I waded through last February in water up to my chin, I found the Indian messenger with written and sealed instructions from Sutter, which I followed.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The wind having increased in force, the schooner was soon traveling briskly over the clear waters of the Sacramento.  High up in the sky soared a brown American eagle with a flock of fat ducks about twenty or thirty feet below flying swiftly toward the southwest, and when the robber spied this prey it turned, and, with the rapidity of an arrow, flew down and caught one of them, then released it.  The attack had been sufficient to harm the duck to such an extent that it dropped from a height of several hundred feet to the ground.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Hunger did not appear to have caused the eagle to swoop down on the duck; otherwise it would have carried it away and devoured it.  The motive was merely the lust to kill, the desire to test its agility and strength.  Having proved this, the eagle knew it was invincible in the air.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>After we reached the tip of the island, which was some ten miles in length, we traveled down the shorter arm of the river, and anchored several miles below for the night.  This, I believe, was my second night on the Sacramento.  When I arose early the next morning, I discovered that the schooner was listing heavily toward starboard.  The water was shallow at this point, but grew deeper as the tide rose.  When the water had reached a safe depth, anchor was hoisted, and the sails unfurled in order to take advantage of the wind.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Soon we were under way again and passed the mouth of a broad creek, where the banks were not so low.  The name has escaped me; it may have been Boot Creek.  Further downstream on the right bank of the river, our boat passed a small settlement consisting of several tents and a few huts, which was known by the Indian name of Halo Chemuck,<ANCHOR ID="n7-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: meaning Nothing to Eat.  A man called Bidwell<ANCHOR ID="n7-5">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-4a">Halo Chemuck, or Chamo, had been started by Bidwell, Reading, and Hoppe on the north bank of the Sacramento not far from Montezuma.  Helae Tschamach in the MS.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-5">John Bidwell who came west with the Bartleson party in 1841.  He spent considerable time at the fort, served in the army, worked in the mines, and later took an active part in official life.  His ranch at Chico, where he conducted extensive experiments, was one of the finest in the state.  He has left several records of his experiences.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The true delta of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers lies directly below this site.  On the right the high prairie land comes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Far up on the high river land adjoining the mouth of the Sacramento, there stood a single house; its solitary occupant proved to be an old acquaintance of mine, the little William Lard<ANCHOR ID="n7-6">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who had left me at Mimal, who came down to the bank of the river to meet us.  William had lived with his father's family for some time, but decided to leave on account of his stepmother and be independent.  The house he was occupying belonged to my former friend, Captain Hastings, who had founded a city and named it Montezuma.<ANCHOR ID="n7-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-6">Also known as Fielding Lard.  He came west in 1846 and operated a ferry across the Sacramento at the town of Montezuma, used by travelers from Sonoma, San Jose&acute;, and the fort.  Later he settled in the Santa Clara Valley.  He advertises in the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-7">Hastings started a city on the Sacramento River.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>At the entrance to the bay our schooner hit a snag, but we soon got her off again.  Although the trip down Suisun Bay was interesting, it was very slow, and it was noon before we reached Benicia where several houses had already been erected.  There we sailed up the canal, which had been finished only a short time ago, that we might put Keseberg and his wife ashore.  Continuing on across Carquinez Strait we passed Mare Island, and upon reaching Sonoma Bay, we headed west or northwest, as the wind, which had been favorable although somewhat weak, gradually diminished.  I am unable to recall whether this was the last day of the old year, 1847, or the first day of 1848.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As our boat traveled on in a southwesterly direction toward Angel Island, the tides began to come in again, and we proceeded at an extremely slow pace.  Finally the Indian sailors manned the long oars; Jacob insisted on trying to reach Angel Island before lowering anchor in order to avoid the ebbing tide.  We were near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>By this time it was dark.  Jacob told us the ebb would not turn before midnight, so we decided to go below and sleep; I stretched out, but was unable to rest, for I was afraid we might miss the right moment to hoist anchor.  At one in the morning the tide returned.  The Indians rose quickly when I called them, and pulled up the anchors.  Favorable winds that accompanied the dawn carried us in a southerly direction swiftly across San Francisco Bay and past the steep, small island of Alcatraz with its thousands of seagulls, and we hove to at what was called the Anchorage just at dawn.  This was near the house of the Dane, Leidesdorff, who served as a Russian agent and received wheat from Sutter.  Up to that time the weather had been perfect; but after sunrise the sky became overcast.  Nevertheless, we began to unload our wheat, but soon the rain came down in torrents, and to all appearances gave every indication that it would continue the entire day.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Knowing that Rippstein and another Swiss called Umiker,<ANCHOR ID="n7-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: whom I had previously heard of in Highland, kept a kind of inn and butchershop nearby, I started out to look for them.  In those days there were only a few houses and people in the neighborhood, so it was not a difficult task.  Many changes had taken place in San Francisco, or Yerba Buena as it was called, since the first time I saw it, and several houses, which were far from luxurious, had been erected.  The one occupied by Rippstein and Umiker was made of wood, and stood on an elevation southeast of Telegraph Hill near what was known as Clark's Point, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-8">Not listed in Bancroft's Register.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Both Rippstein and Umiker I found at home.  The rains did not cease until evening, so I had time to visit another old comrade, Valentine Diehl, who was raising vegetables south of the embarcadero in a small flat valley between the sand dunes; several kinds were being grown successfully.  When the rain stopped, the sun shone brightly once more and the air turned warm and mild.  By the time I returned to the boat it was almost dark.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After supper I went to my cabin, rolled up in my woolen blankets, and was beginning to feel comfortable and warm, when something began to bite me first in one place and then in another.  I knew exactly what had happened.  While I was away, one of the flea-infested members of my crew had used my blankets to take a nap in.  Although I had not slept the night before, I found it impossible to sleep now; I was angry at my Indian crew, and if I had known who had used my blanket I would have punished him.  When it was light I began to hunt for my tormentors.  Thousands of attacks had been made on me during the night, and I was convinced the enemy was numerous.  I found exactly one.</P>
078.sgm:<P>All day long we unloaded freight.  The lazy Indians moved as slowly as they could, and the task was not completed until the next morning.  Water having washed over the bow and into one section of the schooner's hold during the journey, Leidesdorff refused to accept wet wheat, so I sold it at a reduced price to Rippstein and Umiker.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In his instructions Sutter directed me to unload the cargo, then take the boat across the bay to the landing place called San Antonio, directly south of the present city of Oakland, and get fifty thousand feet of lumber consigned to San Francisco.  The landing place, I was told, was two or three miles in from the bay on what was called San Antonio Creek, which was winding and so flooded at high tide that the real channel was not visible, and a skilfull pilot was essential to avoid running aground.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Jacob told me he had been there before, but did not think he knew how to navigate in deep water.  An Indian called Johnny, who was considered the best informed pilot and knew every foot of the channel, was away, and I was afraid to haul fifty thousand feet of lumber across the bay without him.  So I talked things over with Leidesdorff; he said that my men were so inefficient that it would take a month to move that much lumber, and he advised me to tell Sutter that we needed a better and larger crew, and that the Indians should be fed beef, as well as wheat and grasshoppers.  Although the Indians received small rations of beef, they were indolent, nevertheless, and so I decided not to try to move the lumber.  The small tormentors in my clothing from whom I longed to escape were somewhat responsible for this decision.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Freight and passengers for the schooner were aboard by evening; as the tide rose we hoisted anchor and were soon homeward bound.  The wind was against us, and we hove to for the night in the vicinity of Sonoma--San Pablo Bay, I believe--waiting for a change of tide.  By morning with a stiff southwest breeze blowing, we got under way and tried to tack towards Carquinez Strait.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Making headway was slow work.  The wind now blew a gale, the waves were high and thick with foam, and when we steered into the wind, the schooner listed dangerously, and unpleasant and taxing experience.  On the first tack some progress was made, and I hoped to reach the entrance on the next one, but merely succeeded in coming uncomfortably close to a steep cliff that resembled a grayish-brown rock, off starboard.  Although Jacob and his Indian assistants had been making an unsuccessful attempt to steer the schooner toward port, the boat seemed determined to defy our maneuvers, head in another direction, and destroy herself on the rocks.  While one sailor climbed out on the bowsprit to reef the small tir-cornered sail, several others held onto his clothes to keep him from falling overboard.  Our efforts appeared futile, and we were dangerously close to shore when high land ahead of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Two passengers were aboard; one was Captain Hastings, who was bound for the town of Montezuma, the other was a slim American called Johns.<ANCHOR ID="n7-9">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-9">Bancroft says he came west in 1841 with the Bartleson party, and acquired the Honcut rancho.  He engaged in many business enterprises at the fort and in San Francisco.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>On the next tack the Strait was reached.  The wind had gone down somewhat, and the waves had a totally different appearance, resembling small round haystacks eight or ten feet high.  In the evening we anchored off Montezuma where Captain Hastings was put ashore; then left again at dawn.  The sky was cloudy, a stiff southerly breeze was blowing, and the schooner behaved in a different manner.</P>
078.sgm:<P>At Halo Chemuck I delivered a letter and a newspaper to Mr. Hoppe,<ANCHOR ID="n7-10">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who hoped to become a citizen; we stayed there  only a short time in order to take advantage of the favorable winds. It was indeed a joy to watch our ship skim over the clear waters of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-10">Jacob D. Hoppe of Maryland who came west in 1846.  He was owner and editor of the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
078.sgm:<P>My solitary passenger, Mr. Johns, had also discovered several agile fleas in his shirt, a fact that caused him considerable chagrin not knowing what Mrs. Johns would say.  I consoled him by reminding him he was not the only victim, and told him to tell his wife the truth; fleas certainly could not be considered grounds for divorce.<ANCHOR ID="n7-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-4b">Brief omission in folio 124 concerning Mr. Johns's fleas.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I stayed on the schooner after we docked and asked Mr. Johns to tell Sutter to send two wagons the next morning to remove freight.  They arrived, and, after everything was loaded, I rode back in one of them to the fort.  Meeting Sutter on the road, I said, "Good-morning, captain," he addressed me by the same title in a joking manner; but I knew that I did not care to continue in the ro&circ;le of captain, and that nothing would induce me to remain on the schooner permanently.  Although I had not complied with his request to haul fifty thousand feet of lumber from San Antonio to San Francisco, yet Sutter seemed satisfied with what I had done.  Even when I told him I intended to leave the fort and go to Sonoma, he made no comment, however, knowing he still owed me money, and that I would not leave without being compensated.  He never liked to hear anyone talk about the payment of back debts.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Early the following morning Sutter came to see me, ostensibly to inquire about Harry Hartman,<ANCHOR ID="n7-11">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who had been recommended to him as gardener, and said he was prepared to make him an excellent offer either to go into partnership with him, or to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-11">Henry Hartman subsequently operated a tinsmith shop in San Francisco on Pacific Street between Dupont and Stockton, and advertised in the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
078.sgm:<P>My plan had been to go to Sonoma; I could not decide whether to leave or remain here and go into partnership with Sutter.  The favorable terms he offered would make me my own master, and might lead to other openings; these thoughts kept running through my mind.  One day when I met Sutter I asked him if he would consider anyone else but Hartman.  He said he would, so I told him I should like to see the place where the garden was to be planted, inspect the soil, and, if everything was favorable and we could come to an agreement, I might consider going into business with him.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>GOLD AT THE FORT</P>
078.sgm:<P>On the seventh of January, 1848, Sutter and I rode out on horseback to inspect the property he had selected.  It was situated in country where the summers are unusually dry, near a broad, deep slough that was separated from the mouth of the American Fork by a kind of island, and proved to be an excellent site for a garden.  When the tide was high, the American River over-flowed into this slough, which was deep enough to hold an ample supply of water for our garden during the dry months.  The property had plenty of sunlight, too; it was bounded on the west by a forest, and on the north by a lake and a forest, but south and east lay flat open prairie and pasture land.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When we returned to the fort, a written contract was drawn up and in it Sutter guaranteed to supply the land, which I was to plant out, and agreed to furnish all equipment, seed, and food for me and my Indians.  He was also to send laborers to fence the land, do the plowing, and build suitable living quarters for us.  For supervising the work, and seeing that the Indians were kept busy, I was to receive a half interest in the land and crops.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Mission grapes that had been planted at Mimal and subsequently abandoned were to be transplanted to this new place and, accompanied by two Indians, I started off in a canoe to get them.  We decided to plant not only vegetables, but many kinds of fruit trees and grapes in our nursery.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1a">Further details about the garden and trip up the Feather River in folios 125 and 126 have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Soon after, I decided to purchase four hundred acres of land on the creek and along the river bottom, which ran at right angles back to high land and formed a square that included the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:stipulated number of acres.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1b">The land Lienhard selected for a ranch was on Bear Creek near property owned by Smith.  Kyburz claimed the captain had promised him the property, and lengthy and bitter altercations arose between him and Lienhard.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The labor involved in laying out the community garden kept me extremely busy every day;<ANCHOR ID="n8-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: as overseer I had had an excellent opportunity to find out how Indian boys worked, and as Sutter allowed me to select my own men, I took only the ones I thought I could depend on.  My first and most difficult problem was to arrange the garden symmetrically.  Because my boys did not always understand what I said, this was a laborious task.  One white man who knew what I meant would have been much more valuable than three natives who misunderstood most of my words and signs.  To begin with, I did not have a carpenter's rule or compass so that I could lay out a perfect square.  Everything had to be measured by eye, and I discovered that after I thought I had a true level the ground appeared to be on a slant.  After several attempts and endless measuring and resetting of stakes, I abandoned the idea of trying to be accurate.  Another difficult piece of work was breaking up the untilled ground.  Native methods of plowing were unsatisfactory; in place of turning over consecutive rows, the Indians often skipped two rows, and then, later, the entire area had to be replowed.<ANCHOR ID="n8-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-2a">He moved to his garden on February 15.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-2b">The balance of folio 126 and a section of folio 127 have been omitted at this point.  They contain a detailed, but unimportant, description of the building of the huts and laying out the garden.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Every word I uttered, every attempt I made to show them how to work, proved useless.  I might as well talk to the tool itself, as its owner.  As soon as I left the Indians, they went back to their old ways.  I did not know exactly how to handle the ground myself, and so only one section was placed under cultivation.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>A special tool had to be made for us by Fifield on equipment that had been brought from Appenzell, Switzerland.  The work with this new hoe progressed slowly, but it was done in a thorough manner, for I did not rest until the boys knew how to handle the hoe properly, and could do their work well.  Cultivating six or eight acres in this manner was laborious, but with patience our task was finally completed.  When this was done, I planted seeds as originally planned.  Many more obstacles arose, but we overcame all of them.  Next I prepared several seed beds in the ground, intending to replant the young shoots thus started.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter had sent two Dutch sailors to help erect a fence around the property; I told them to cut stakes eight or ten feet high from the nearest bushes, and drive them close together in the ground on the three exposed sides.  The deep lagoon on the north I considered adequate protection against roving cattle.  Indian laborers brought material for my hut, and those of the native workmen.<ANCHOR ID="n8-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-3a">Brief omission.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>While I was working in the garden, I often went to the fort for supplies.  One day Sutter made some mysterious remarks about his sawmill,<ANCHOR ID="n8-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-3b">This gristmill was six miles above the fort on the American River; the lumber mill was at Coloma about forty miles northeast of the fort.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I believe I have already mentioned an acrobat called Jacob Wittmer, one of Sutter's superintendents.  His job was supervising Indian drivers, who usually traveled with a train of five to eight wagons that carried provisions and supplies to the sawmill, for when the Indians were left to their own devices they spent twice as much time as they should on the road.  Jacob Wittmer had also served in the U. S. Dragoons under General Kearny, and had traveled south to San Diego and Los Angeles, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>For two or three weeks Sutter had been acting queerly.  One day I had some business to transact in the fort; since it was noon I stayed there for dinner, and as I was leaving, he brought out a dirty old rag in which something was tied.  He unfastened the knot, and showed us eighteen or twenty small pieces of metal, the largest about the size of a pinhead.  These small grains were yellow and we began to think they might be gold.  I suggested that he give the largest kernel to the smith, Fifield, to test in a lead spoon, which had to be thoroughly cleaned first in the blacksmith shop, then heated, and well-hammered in the anvil.  This plan met with universal favor, and we went over to the smithy.  There Fifield built a fire, cleaned a lead spoon, placed the biggest gold kernel in it, and, in order to make the fire burn more rapidly, worked furiously with the bellows.</P>
078.sgm:<P>We watched with intense interest.  In addition to Fifield, Wittmer, and myself, Hudson, the wagonwright, John Mouet, the jolly little tailor who now had the post of overseer, and Charley Burch, I believe, were present.  Finally the lead spoon, heated white, was removed from the fire.  The small gold kernel was placed in it on the clean anvil, and immediately pounded by Fifield with a small hammer; soon it expanded to over half an inch.  While this was going on everyone was absolutely quiet and not a word was spoken.  We were all eager to know if this were actually the precious metal called gold!</P>
078.sgm:<P>The test proved entirely satisfactory; as the silence was broken by a wild shout of joy, pandemonium broke loose.  Men profoundly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Little John Mouet made the most absurd leaps of all, crying, "Gold, gold, gold, it's gold, boys, it's gold!  All of us will be rich.  Three cheers for the gold!"  The commotion was heard everywhere in the fort, and many people stepped out of their doors to learn what the noise was about.  While I was very happy, and laughed and joined in the fun, yet I believe I was the most sober man there and, recalling my work, was the first one to leave the blacksmith shop.  Sutter, also attracted by the loud sounds, came out of the big house and talked with Mr. Roether of Baden, engaging him in a lengthy conversation.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As I was leaving the smithy, he saw me and waved for me to come over.  "My secret I see has been discovered," he said, "Since we expect to be rich, let's celebrate with a bottle of wine."  He took a bottle of red wine from his closet, and we emptied it.  A strange feeling crept over us.  The news had come so quickly, so unexpectedly, that we felt it must be something we had imagined, some dream in which a poor person who had never expected to be rich had suddenly received word that a wealthy childless cousin had passed away and left him a large legacy.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Fifield, the smith, and Hudson the wagonwright, who had been employed by Sutter at the fort, decided to leave at once intending to find out for themselves if gold had actually been found.  Purchasing enough supplies to last several days, they took picks and shovels, several cooking pots, two thin plates, and some woolen blankets, and started out.  They were the first men to pioneer in the gold fields.  The place where the sawmill was being built came to be known as Coloma; that was where gold was first discovered not by my countryman, Wittmer, as he said, and not, as later reported by the newspapers, or described in books, by Sutter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Marshall, Sutter, and an employee by the name of Weimer, or Wimmer,<ANCHOR ID="n8-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-4a">Peter L. Wimmer, a pioneer of 1846.  He worked for Sutter as a millwright at Coloma.  His wife is said to have tested the nugget by boiling it in her washtub.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>This passage needed an opening which had to be dug, and while a test was being made to find out whether the water had the necessary outlets and intakes, the sluices were opened for the water to flow through.  Afterwards they were locked again.  As soon as the water had passed through the outlet, Marshall and Wimmer went over to the sluices to see if they had worked properly, found several shining bits of metal, and picked them up to see what they were.  Pure gold, they felt confident, had been found.</P>
078.sgm:<P>More samples were gathered, and a message sent to Sutter informing him an important discovery had been made and that his presence was required immediately.  When Sutter arrived, he was given bits of metal to test.  Pieces were sent to Monterey, but by the time the report that the metal was pure gold was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:received at the fort, the secret had leaked out.  It was not long after this visit to the mountains that Sutter spoke so hopefully and confidentially to me.<ANCHOR ID="n8-5a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-5a">Lienhard's account of the gold discovery is somewhat misleading.  Gold was actually discovered on January 24th by James W. Marshall, who reached the fort on the 28th and confided the news to Sutter, who had the gold tested.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>When Fifield and Hudson, who were determined to look for gold, reached the sawmill, Marshall was not willing to let them prospect, for like Sutter he intended to reserve a section of land for his own use.  Marshall was reported to have said that gold probably would be found all along the river, and the men would have to go somewhere else to look for it.  So they selected a place twenty or thirty miles away situated several miles above the fork of the north and south branches of the American River, at a point where the south arm, bending back toward the right, had thrown up a gravel barrier.  Having made a thorough inspection of the country, the two pioneer Mormon prospectors considered this location promising.  Since supplies were almost exhausted, they went back to the fort to buy fresh provisions.  Within a few days after they got back the men had made more money than they could have earned in several weeks or even months with Sutter.  The gold fever spread over the country from that time on.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Several young Mormons, who were employed at the wheat mill, were the next men to leave their posts and join Fifield and Hudson.  Soon a crowd congregated to dig for gold, and the place came to be called Mormon Island, the name by which it is still known.  This was the first site where a systematic search for gold was made.  A few weeks elapsed, then exciting rumors began to spread with the rapidity of a great epidemic.  Everyone was infected, and, as it spread, peace and quiet vanished.  To all appearances men seemed to have gone insane, or to have suddenly lost some of their five senses; they were, apparently, living in a dream.  Each man had to stop and ask himself: "Am I mad?  Is all this real?  Is what I see with my own eyes actually gold, or is it merely my imagination?  Is it a Chimera?  Am I delirious?"</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>That was why so many doubted the truth about gold: it seemed fantastic to believe the rich metal could be washed out of river gravel so easily.  Yet more and more prospectors flocked from the four corners of the earth to pan fortunes at the mines.  To show how the thought of finding gold affected various persons, let me cite some specific instances.  When San Franciscans learned gold had been discovered and that the deposits were unbelievably rich, sailors deserted their ships; even captains, unable to find men to take their places, followed the example set by the seamen.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Irrespective of what he was doing, no one was satisfied until he had started off for the mines with pick, shovel, and pans.  I recall a tailor in San Francisco who was working on a pair of trousers when he heard about the vast quantities of gold uncovered.  He had decided to go to the placers, when the man he was making the trousers for came in and asked him to hurry and finish the work, and as he had heard many interesting rumors about the strike, he regaled the tailor, who was already excited, with mining stories.  Although the tailor had already cut and basted the trousers, and had planned to finish them in a few hours, he was so upset that he put them down saying he could not finish his work, and the man to whom they belonged had to promise him eight dollars before he would complete them.  Even ministers lost their composure, and, abandoning their flocks to their fate, joined the search for the golden calf.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Mr. Sinclair, who had two hundred acres of fine ripe wheat, left it and took the Indians who were to have harvested it to the mines; the gold he found could be measured by the bushel, I was told.  Sutter, who had several acres of superb grain, too, was advised to follow Sinclair's example and use his Indians to dig gold, but this did not appeal to him and, notwithstanding the hardship and expense, he did not leave until his wheat was stacked and fenced.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The impudence and boldness of the gold prospectors of that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>"Take any road.  They all go to the mines," I replied.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Touching spurs to their horses like madmen, they galloped swiftly away.  They whooped and yelled; the pans, bowls, and picks rattled noisily.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Performances of this kind occurred every day.  The poor horses were forced to travel at top speed, as their riders shouted, bellowed, sang, or cursed.  This happened even more frequently when they were returning from the mines, if there were gold with which to buy drinks.  Strong liquor was popular, and the miners drank greedily.  Whiskey bottles ceased to be a curiosity, being found everywhere in the streets, along streams and rivers, and around houses.  Enormous piles of them accumulated inside the fort, which was the rendezvous for miners and prospectors going out to the mines.</P>
078.sgm:<P>This was the place, too, where men who had mined hundreds or thousands of dollars' worth of gold congregated when they returned from the diggings, the place where they attempted to atone for recent hardships by enormous quantities of alcohol.  Brandy was the only drink that satisfied them.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Within a short time the fort, formerly gay in its own way, became the center of every kind of vice; gambling, cheating, robbing, drinking, and even murder were daily events and few traces of law and order remained.  Many early miners were drunken soldiers and sailors who had never owned one hundred dollars before, and having hundreds or even thousands of dollars' worth of gold in their possession, they believed their wealth would last indefinitely, and decided to enjoy themselves.  Their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:idea of a good time was to drink until they dropped from intoxication, but often when they awoke in a semi-stupor the following morning, they would discover they had been robbed of their heavy bags of gold in the night.<ANCHOR ID="n8-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-4b">More details of revelry at the fort found in folios 128 and 129 have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>As reports came drifting in from the mines day after day telling how much money men were making, I began to feel as restless as if a magnet were pulling me toward the mines, and when I heard that many of them were washing between thirty and sixty dollars' worth of dust in one day, my self-control vanished.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When I went to Sutter and told him I could not keep on with the garden because I had decided to leave for the mines, I had expected to sell him my half interest; he did not want to buy me out, however, and advised me not to leave.  Finally he saw I was determined to go, so he stopped talking, although he still refused to purchase my share.  Having bought all my equipment, I was anxious to start off early the next day.  My plan was not to remain unless I located a profitable claim; if I failed, I intended to return immediately and go on with my garden.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Dreams of future wealth flitted through my mind as I made the rounds of my garden beds before leaving, and as I looked carefully at the plants, thinking it might be the last time I would see them, a wave of homesickness came over me.  My garden had grown and flourished, because I had never failed to give it the most meticulous care.  How would my plants look after two weeks more?  Should I leave my favorite garden, after all my hard work, and start off to search for gold in the mountains?  The more I thought about it, the more difficult it was to decide.  Finally I abandoned the idea of going to the mines; I did not believe I could be happy away from my plants.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Since Sutter told me I might send anything I needed at the mines on a wagon that was to leave the following morning for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>By May twentieth my potatoes were in bloom, and my grain was three or four feet high.  That morning when I woke up the air seemed unusually chilly.  When I got out of bed to my surprise I found the grass covered with frost.  My hopes vanished into thin air.  Frost late in May in California, a land considered semitropical!  This was the end of my gardening.  If I had only left this place as soon as gold was discovered!</P>
078.sgm:<P>After the sun was up, I inspected my plants and found that every melon, tomato, bean, and cucumber I had set out was dead and black.  Potatoes that were in full bloom yesterday were now frozen to within six inches of the ground; tall green grain that was about to ripen had turned into a few shriveled ends approximately a foot high.  My vines, that had been thick with grapes the size of small bullets, were dropping.  Onions, cabbages, turnips, and beets were the only plants that escaped.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After breakfast I went down to the fort and told Sutter the tragic news; he was not nearly so upset as I had expected, but since he had never seen the garden, he had no idea of the damage.  I told him I could not go on with the work, that there was nothing in it, and that everyone else seemed to be getting rich.  Sutter tried to console me with kindly words, but I merely said I would sell him my share of the garden and remain for a time to manage the nursery.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Apparently he wanted to keep me either as a partner or employee, and for this reason was willing to listen to what I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:to say.  I promised to stay on nine months from the time I started the garden, to continue to look after everything, and to work as if I were still his partner for the sum of nine hundred dollars which, considering the time spent, was meager compensation.<ANCHOR ID="n8-6a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-6a">Sutter appears to have paid Lienhard $1000 for his interest on May 22.  See <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<P>The air was sunny and warm.  The ground was soft and damp, and the new seeds sprouted within five days.  Then the last four nights of May there was more frost.  Although not so severe as that of May twentieth, it killed the new growth.  I had enough seed to replant my garden, however.</P>
078.sgm:<P>These frosts appeared to be the forerunner of hot weather; May ended with intense heat, June began in the same manner.  To watch the seeds grow as rapidly as if they had been in a hothouse, was a delight.  It must have been the last of May or the first of June when I asked Sutter to come out and look at the garden.  He failed to arrive, and sent word that he was too busy to leave, but I found out that he went out to his tannery several times, and was even able to go over to see Schwartz, who lived at an Indian settlement eight miles away.<ANCHOR ID="n8-5b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-5b">An unimportant section of folio 130 has been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Many Germans were among the volunteers the United States government sent around the Horn in Stevenson's regiment,<ANCHOR ID="n8-7a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and after gold was discovered they began to desert.  The soldiers sent out to bring them back often failed to return, and as the officers were no better than the privates, only a few loyal men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:were left.  An Irish corporal<ANCHOR ID="n8-8a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and some men, who had proved reliable, were quartered at Sutter's Fort to catch the culprits.<ANCHOR ID="n8-6b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-7a">Jonathan D. Stevenson of New York, who commanded the N. Y. Volunteers.  In California, he was made commander of the southern district, with headquarters at Los Angeles.  After the war he became a real estate agent in San Francisco.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-8a">Apparently Edmund Bray.  See <HI REND="italics">supra</HI>
078.sgm: p. 87, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-6b">Folios 131, 132, and 133 have been largely omitted.  These describe the burning of Lienhard's hut, assistance given to the German deserter, trouble with his Indian sevants, Indian thievery; native gambling, and descriptions of wild life found in the vicinity.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>My poor Indian-built hut came to be known as Bachelor's Hall, as no one but bachelors lived in it and no one but bachelors visited it.  Occasionally guests stayed with me overnight, but they were usually friends like Thomen, Covillaud, or Kuntze; the latter was extremely fond of pickled cucumbers, and I gave him permission to eat all he wanted.  Once when Thomen stopped on his way back from the mines he was so sick that I made him a tea brewed from the roots of the California ash.  He believed it would cure him, and it did make him well.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Mr. Huggenberger, who was almost like a father to me, often stopped and seemed happy when he found I was well.  Once he brought his old friend, Huber, who had the reputation of being stingy, but was pleasant enough otherwise.  I picked one of my finest and largest Spanish watermelons in their honor, and we ate it under the shade of a large oak tree on the bank of the lagoon in the northwest corner of the garden.  As I cut it, I insisted that we stay until the entire melon had been consumed, not a light task.  My friends stopped several times, saying they could not eat another bite; but I made them continue, for I wanted to see how much a man could actually hold.  The fruit was the kind that is dark red on the inside, and has a minimum of seeds.  Several of my largest watermelons that had been weighed averaged thirty-six pounds.</P>
078.sgm:<P>That year my corn reached a height of nine feet, but the potatoes, which had large runners, had weak roots.  The seed had come from the Dutchman, Schwartz, and was so poor that there was little chance for a good crop.  I had a large number of sugar melons, too, and most of them had a delicious flavor, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Rippstein dropped in to see me one day; he had been at the mines, and taken in several hundred dollars' worth of gold, but his foot had been injured, and he was living with Zins and his wife while convalescing.  Umiker, Rippstein's partner in San Francisco, was another visitor.  He, too, had gone to the mines, and had made several hundred dollars.  He agreed with me that his friend was not only stingy and selfish, but he told me that upon reaching the diggings each man, worked his own claim, because Rippstein considered himself the best worker, and believed he could make more money alone.<ANCHOR ID="n8-7b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-7b">Folio 134, page 3, has been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Another Swiss, Jacob Durr of Pratteln, Canton of Basel, who had an Indian wife in Oregon, had left for the mines a short time after gold was found, and had gathered several thousand dollars' worth of gold.  Rippstein heard of it and lost his temper.  "It seems strange," he said, "that some people can collect that much gold in a short time, whereas some men--like myself--work just as hard and never find any gold at all."</P>
078.sgm:<P>I caught the envy and malice in his words and replied, "I believe you are jealous of Durr's luck, or you would not talk that way.  Has Durr done anything to make you envious?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Oh, no," he said, "that's not it; it's the fact that some people have all the luck that makes me mad."  I remarked that it seemed futile to envy another man his good fortune, and said that I could never be jealous of anyone who had grown rich through his own industry, or through luck.  I might hope fate would favor me, but I could never be miserable about it.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I believe Umiker was from Aargau and came to America in the early forties, first settling near Highland, Illinois, where a brother and several relatives were living.  He left Highland with a friend; the two men, I was told, had intended to go to Santa Fe, but were robbed by Kansas Indians and held prisoners for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I received many visits from men I had never heard of before.  One day a short, light-haired German about thirty years old came into my garden.  His name was Escholtz,<ANCHOR ID="n8-9">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and he was a great talker; he was a cabinet-maker, or ship's carpenter by profession, had acquired some gold, and was on the way back to the mines.  One of my mares was extremely tame, and he decided to buy her for eighty dollars.<ANCHOR ID="n8-8b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-9">There is no clue to his identity.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-8b">Folio 135, page 4, and 136, page 1, describing an encounter with a fox have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Not long after gold was discovered, my old friends, Huggenberger and Covillaud, came to see me.  We walked through the natural park west of my garden, which was surrounded on the north by the Sacramento, and on the south and east by a deep slough, and talked about gold and what the future might hold.  Covillaud said he would not be satisfied until he had ten thousand dollars.  When he saved that much he intended to return to Bordeaux, marry a pretty girl, and live happily ever after.  I did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Fourth of July, 1848, was celebrated in a noisy manner at Sutter's Fort.  One or two important men had arrived recently and one of Sutter's old iron cannon, which was either Russian, or Mexican, was taken out in front of the fort to be loaded and fired.  I considered this a dangerous procedure; knowing some rusty iron would be thrown out with the shot, I warned the men who were handling it.  Although these venerable cannon were thought to be unreliable, and although the barrel threatened to burst every time the gun went off, they were heavily loaded; but, much to our surprise, no damage was done.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>AT THE MINES</P>
078.sgm:<P>One August day Sutter spoke to me about going into partnership with him at the mines, saying I could take all the Indian boys I wanted, and that he would supply all the food, working equipment, and other necessary things in return for half of all gold found.  Rich placers situated below Mormon Island had been discovered, he told me; some of his Indian friends had promised to point out the spot to him or anyone he sent to work there.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Since Sutter agreed to pay me the nine hundred dollars he owed me in full, even if I left the nursery a month earlier than we had agreed on, I was satisfied with the arrangement, and was willing to turn the garden over to anyone competent to fill the place.  The captain mentioned several Indians who might be trusted with it, but I considered them too careless to take charge of young plants, and when Mr. Negroff, a German-Russian who had been studying with me for several weeks and was familiar with the work, heard that I was looking for a competent gardener, he recommended himself.  Much as I disliked the man, no one else was available, and I believed he would prove more satisfactory than the lazy Indians; I explained this to Sutter, and so Negroff was hired.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The only Indians I took along were Konnock, Abaya, Wool-top, Kaemulla, a little Indian boy to cook, and six Indians whom I knew slightly, belonging to Sutter.  Before I left the fort, I sold my claiborne mare and her filly for one hundred and twenty dollars, and placed my white mare, her filly, and my Johnny in charge of one of Sutter's Indians who said he would look after them in my absence.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Preparations for the mines having been completed, I decided not to wait, but to start out and travel several miles after dark.  I left at sunset, and passed a small cemetery east of the fort just as an old English admiral was being lowered into his grave.  That night the Indians drove the wagon that contained our working tools and supplies eight or ten miles; it was moonlight, and the night air was crisp and cold.  After a few hours' rest, I started off early the next morning on the tedious journey.  Upon reaching my destination, I had expected to find an Indian who could point out the rich claim Sutter had spoken about below Mormon Island; but no one was in sight, so we had no choice but to drive on toward the mining camp.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Early in the afternoon when we were within a few miles of it, I met a slender gentleman; I inquired of him how far it was to Mormon Island.  The man told me he had come to California from Lima, and asked if I had any connection with Sutter.  When I told him who I was, he said he owned what was called a gold washer, a simple device made of wood shaped like a cradle, which was at Mormon Island, and offered to give it to me.  He advised me to say that it was my property if anyone was using it when I got there.  I had already planted several seeds in my garden that had been brought by this man, who was known as a California Dutchman, to California.  I have forgotten his name; I believe, however, he was the philanthropist, Mr. James Lick, of San Francisco, a man in comfortable circumstances, although not a millionaire.  He was a Pennsylvania Dutchman who had spent some time in Lima, and so must have been the person I met.<ANCHOR ID="n9-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1a">James Lick had lived for more than 20 years in South America.  He reached California in January, 1848, invested in real estate, and made a fortune.  He was a prominent pioneer and made many public bequests.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>About one o'clock in the afternoon I drove to Mormon Island.  While traveling from the foothills down to the gravel deposits, I had passed about five white miners washing gold in their camps, and one of them, noticing the watermelons in our wagon, came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>After I got to Mormon Island, which is not an island, but a vast, rough, gravel deposit which becomes an island only during floods, I found two or three separate groups of miners at work washing gold from gravel.  The rocker, as the gold-washing machine which had been described to me by the man who made me a present of it was called, was discovered on the bank of the river near the group that included the one-eyed melon thief that was washing gold.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When I claimed the machine as my property, the thief gave me an ugly look, and I knew that if this had been the only machine the group possessed, they would never have allowed me to remove it.  However, I had no difficulty establishing ownership, notwithstanding the warnings of its former proprietor.  I suspected that the group of miners, including the one-eyed man, had been closely associated with him, but had not lived up to their agreement, and that he had become dissatisfied and left.</P>
078.sgm:<P>This being my first visit to the mines, everything was strange and new.  For some time I watched the other miners in order to learn how to work, then I staked out a location near the water, and decided to try my luck.  The cradle was set up, and pick and shovel industriously plied.  Gravel was brought in a bucket, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Continuous rocking and a constant stream of water poured over it shook the gravel back and forth so that the largest pieces fell through the sieve; they were thrown away by the men in charge.  After several bucketsful had been washed through the sieve, fresh gravel was poured in, and the process of pouring in water and rocking the cradle went on until all dirt and sand had been cleaned from the bottom of the box which was slanted slightly forward.</P>
078.sgm:<P>If the gravel were rich, glistening yellow grains of gold were visible before all the dirt had been washed away.  Gold was the heavier substance, and although magnetic ironstone was not much lighter, pieces of these metals remained behind the bar where the hole was plugged.  When the wooden plugs and the ironstone were removed, the gold was washed carefully through the holes.  The heaviest bits were caught behind the next bars of the sieve, but the lighter gold was washed down behind the third bars.  What occurred depended largely on the rocker, whether it was held in a slanting position, whether the gold was thoroughly washed, and whether a constant stream of water was poured over it.</P>
078.sgm:<P>A gold miner soon learned how to obtain the best results, if much gold was found in the first container.  After the gold reached the pans, the water was poured off; the pan, including the ironstone and gold, was set at an angle out in the sun to remove all dampness.  Then the entire mass was poured into a flat pan, and the light sand blown off the gold.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>By this method, which was the one first used, much of the very fine gold dust was blown away with the sand, and this fine gold was valuable.  After the miner became accustomed to it, however, he lost less gold.  All my gold was panned this way.  This method was later discarded, I believe, and quicksilver, which attracts the gold and not the black sand, substituted.  Later an attempt was made to use magnets which the ironstone would adhere to, but much of the finest gold seemed to cling to the sand.  This process, too, was soon discarded.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The first time I used a gold washer and saw gold kernels and black sand in its round bottom, I was overcome by a peculiar sensation; it was not just happiness, it was a mixture of emotions which I could not analyze.  Where I worked was not one of the best locations, but I was confident a large amount of rich gravel could be found there.  A good crowbar would have made the work much easier, but we had nothing but picks, and it was impossible to dislodge large pieces of rock with them, especially in places where I was convinced there were large deposits of gold, so instead of the ounce of gold a man was supposed to wash in a day, I had to be satisfied with much less.  But it was gold, a metal of great value, one whose worth was recognized the world over.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I was sorry I had not come to the mines earlier, and thought longingly of the amount of gold I might have washed.  Rather than working hard in a garden which was of no value, I should have gone to the mines immediately after gold was found.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter had promised to pay me nine hundred dollars for my services, but I had learned this much: his guarantees were seldom backed by real gold.  After the mines were discovered, I should have received something more than the word of a man who was not in the habit of keeping it, and been given the gold itself.  But it is usually nothing but vanity when a man says: If I had only done so and so, or had known better, I would have done this or that. </P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Although a good white worker might wash, on an average, one ounce of gold a day, I could not expect that much from my Indian boys, half of whom were too lazy to do anything at all, but I learned many things about the character and ability of my Indian workers in a short time.  One of them, called Witano, was a brave, industrious lad; two more were fair workers; but the others did nothing but eat and get into mischief.  Although their appetites were enormous, two pretended to be sick all the time.  This type of illness annoyed me; I believed that if they were unable to work, they should at least eat less.<ANCHOR ID="n9-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1b">Sections of folio 136 describing Indian workers have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>One day Mr. Hinkler,<ANCHOR ID="n9-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-2a">Apparently Ezra E. Hinckley who came west in 1837 and was a member of the Mormon Battalion.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I had eaten only a few of my good watermelons myself, and one day some Indians who lived further down the river came to visit me and asked to look at them.  When they saw my fruit they wanted some.  I had brought the melons along for my own use, and did not intend to part with them, but the Indians insisted on buying them, so I said they would have to pay an ounce of gold for each one.  They agreed to my terms immediately; I sold one for sixteen dollars in gold dust.  Apparently my customers enjoyed it, because they came back and bought all I had at the same price, and if I had had a carload I could have made a small fortune.  I do not believe melons were ever sold at such high prices before.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>In those days most miners were so greedy, treacherous, and unreliable that no man's life was safe.  Law and order were unknown; fights occurred daily; and anyone who could not protect himself with his fists was unfortunate.  Every man carried a gun, and all types of weapons that could shoot, cut, or stab--plain pocket pistols, Colt revolvers, double-barreled guns, repeaters, daggers, and double-edged swords--were used.  Nearly everyone carried a dagger or pistol in his belt and men on horseback often tucked their weapons in their leggings.  Robbery and murder were commonplace, because many men still preferred to steal gold dust rather than work for it and did not hesitate to take human lives if necessary.  Everyone had to be prepared to meet any emergency and to be able to defend himself against robbery.  All miners were armed, and since many of them failed to shave for long periods, and since their clothing was often torn, it was not surprising that they regarded one another suspiciously.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One afternoon I had a pleasant surprise when I happened to see Louis Willhardt,<ANCHOR ID="n9-3">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: whom I had known several years before at Sutter's Fort, where he was stationed with several other volunteers.  Willhardt, who was a locksmith, was in great demand at the fort, and so he worked there for some time at his trade.  When the gold fever spread among the volunteers, many of whom were stationed at Sonoma, desertions were frequent.  Small Louis, a six-foot German, and a tall Swiss called Franz Muller<ANCHOR ID="n9-4">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-3">Louis Willhardt who came west in 1847.  He belonged to Co. C., N.Y. Volunteers.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-4">Franz Muller was a Swiss volunteer.  The <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Between Sonoma and the Sacramento River beyond the fork of the Feather River there is a long stretch of ground which can be crossed on foot in two or three days.  The trail across it led over the Sonoma Mountains and through the Sacramento <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Much as Muller had enjoyed the fine meals Uncle Sam provided and the idle life of the army, he decided to go ahead, lured by tales of gold.  Eight or ten miles beyond the fort he and Willhardt decided to try and cross the river, for they feared they might be captured if they entered the settlement.</P>
078.sgm:<P>No boats were available, and they were forced to use thick bundles of reeds tied together for temporary rafts.  Fortunately masses of this tule were growing near the right bank of the river, and enough material for two strong bundles was soon cut and tied together at each end.  The men removed their clothes, rolled them in a bundle, placed them on their tule rafts, then either sat or lay down on them.  Using their hands and feet in place of oars, they tried to reach the left bank as rapidly as possible.  This was their first attempt at navigating rafts, and the crossing took longer than they had anticipated; finally they landed far down on the left bank.  The heavy-set German had not wanted to cross, and by the time Muller had reached the opposite shore, he had lost all interest in going on.  Willhardt said he had considerable trouble persuading him not to turn back.  When they reached the gold mines, they were afraid to remain any length of time wherever many miners had congregated, for they had learned that there were several volunteers in the vicinity who had come to look for deserters.<ANCHOR ID="n9-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-2b">Folio 136, page 4, has been omitted at this point.  This gives a further account of Willhardt's mining ventures.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I had considered seeking a better location for a long time, but was afraid to leave my camp alone with my Indians, knowing these brazen miners would not hesitate to use anything I had, so I decided to take advantage of Willhardt's arrival, and search for a new claim some place between Mormon Island and the junction of the south and north forks of the American River.  Transporting an iron kettle ample to hold food for a large number of Indians, and several other superfluous objects, made traveling without carts difficult, but the Indian boys were eager to leave, and soon carried our heavy belongings to the new location about two miles downstream.  The new claim was near a small waterfall on the left bank, close to the point where the stream makes a double bend around a large mass of granite and swings right.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Here, as at my first camp, I was handicapped by the lack of one or two good crowbars.  If I had had them, I would have been able to break several small rocks in the channel, where the river had originally flowed, and it was in just such beds that rich gold deposits were often found.  These so-called "pockets," or places where the river in times past had made a considerable drop, often proved to be bonanzas, but working with pick and shovel, I could remove only the layer of gravel which contained very little gold.</P>
078.sgm:<P>On day Willhardt, who had been away, came back full of excitement and happiness, reporting that he had found a place where large quantities of gold could be taken out; he also said he had joined three other Germans, and that their party had discovered a remarkable deposit that seemed extremely rich at the mouth of the north and south forks.  He told me I could accomplish much more by working alone than with Sutter.  I agreed, but said I wanted to experiment a little longer, and if my luck did not improve I would break my connection with the captain.  After Willhardt left, I worked hard and industriously, but collected only a little gold.  My patience being almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Near the river bank was a small hill not more than three feet high, and six or seven feet broad at the base, that must have formed part of the channel at one time; but high water had moved so much sediment that when the water rose the pile of dirt resembled a small island.  One day I was looking for a rich placer as usual, and hit the pile with my pick as I passed by; I was so disgusted with myself that I struck it violently, and a large piece fell off, but the pick went through my trousers, and tore a piece of skin from my right leg, and the pain was so acute that I did a kind of Indian war dance, much to the surprise of my native workmen.  Then I removed the pick and looked down at the hole I had made.  There several gold nuggets glistened.  Closer inspection revealed many more of these same treasures shining in the black soil.</P>
078.sgm:<P>What recent bitterness I had felt vanished; and shrieks of pain changed to cries of joy.  My workers must have thought I had gone insane, for they looked at one another in amazement at this sudden change of conduct.  But when I yelled, " <HI REND="italics">Alli oro muchachos, alli mucho oro</HI>
078.sgm:!<ANCHOR ID="n9-5">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<P>Imagine my pleasure at the sight of layers of yellow gold shining in the cradle, more gold than I had ever seen at one time before.  Unfortunately I knew that this pile of dirt was not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-5">This should read <HI REND="italics">aqui oro</HI>
078.sgm:<P>After our rich little pile of dirt was washed, I searched futilely for another one.  The amount of gold we took out every day grew smaller and smaller; however, I was reluctant to leave camp long enough to locate a good claim for fear I would be robbed by white bandits, and so had no opportunity to better my situation.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Finally a letter came in from Sutter saying that he would send a wagon for us on a certain date, and that about six miles above the place where he was then camping, a rich placer where a man could wash about fifty dollars' worth of gold in one day had been discovered.  By this time I understood Sutter well enough to know what to expect by such a statement.  Nevertheless, if half or third of what he said were true, my Indians and I should be able to wash a large amount of gold in a short time.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Several days after this message arrived, Willhardt came over to see me, and said his two younger partners had heard of me, and at his suggestion had agreed to take me into partnership, if I would leave my Indians behind.  Their claim was reputed to be so rich that one man could take out several hundred dollars' worth of gold.  He urged me not to let this opportunity pass by, adding that it was only through his influence that I had a chance to join them.  His liberal and friendly invitation made a favorable impression on me; I was anxious to accept his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I was afraid to leave my camp for any length of time.  Suspicious characters often passed by my claim, cast covetous eyes at my mining equipment and boxes of clothing, and asked questions about the amount of gold that could be washed nearby.  One day two dangerous-looking men came over to our place, and inquired whether I had seen a certain miner.  Meanwhile their eyes, like those of hungry wolves, looked over my articles that were lying on the ground.  Then they glanced at two flat pans containing ironstone mixed with gold that had been placed in the sun to dry.  They were so surprised that they were unable to move a step.  They looked at the gold, then at me, my gun, my dog, then back again to the gold.  Would they be able to withstand the temptation of seizing the gold?  I moved nearer my gun, certain they intended to rob me, but when they saw how closely I was watching them, they departed reluctantly.</P>
078.sgm:<P>No work was done on Sunday, for that was the day my Indians were free to amuse themselves as they chose.  Often they had many dollars' worth of gold dust in their possession, yet they never thought of saving anything.  Whatever was earned during the day was gambled away at night.  Sometimes they played until it was time to go to work the next morning.  One Sunday my youngest Indian followed his friends when they disappeared.  That evening the older boys returned, but the small boy was missing.  Witano and Abaya were the last to come back that night; both had scratched and bruised faces.  Suspecting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>They told me white men on Mormon Island had robbed the lad, and when they tried to help him, they were beaten.  The next morning I took my gun and went over to Mormon Island.  After locating the tent my Indians had described, I stopped.  There stood my young Indian, who looked at me in an embarrassed manner.  Six or seven men, who appeared to be Americans, were sitting inside the tent, and I told them the lad belonged to Sutter, and had been lent to me for a cook.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Apparently I had fallen into a hornet's nest.  All the bandits became noisy and quarrelsome.  One of them shouted that he had purchased the boy from an old Indian and would not let him go, even if Sutter, or the devil himself, came for him.  My retort was that slavery was not allowed, and that Indians could not be bought and sold in that manner.  The men grew more and more angry.  Warning me not to speak to the boy they said: "So you are trying to frighten us by bringing your gun?  We have guns and can show you a thing or two."  Although I assured them I had not brought my gun to frighten them, because I knew some of them would be armed, and I was confident that when I told them whose boy it was they would give him up, the men refused to listen to my words, which were spoken quietly.  As their remarks became more and more noisy, I began to believe these drunkards intended to pick a fight with me.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Fortunately one of them had been a lieutenant of volunteers, knew Sutter intimately, and had even visited my camp several days ago.  He muttered a few words to his noisy comrades, trying to pacify them.  Realizing my boy would not be released, I decided to start home and leave this tiger's lair.  While I walked off at my usual pace, I was afraid the brigands might try to follow me, and if I had appeared frightened, they might have sent a few bullets after me. However, I was not molested; after I had gone several hundred feet I began to breathe more freely.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>SEARCHING FOR NEW PLACERS</P>
078.sgm:<P>Knowing Sutter's wagon was to be sent to move us to our new location, the day we planned to leave I told my friends it would probably not come before four o'clock, and so I intended to accept their friendly invitation to visit them.  Privately I hoped the conveyance would not reach camp that day at all, but it pulled in at three o'clock instead, so we helped the men pack our belongings on the cart, and started off.  Since the driver made his oxen travel at a good pace, by sundown we descended a slope and reached the camp of Kanaka Harry, who was now living there with his wife Manawitte, Sutter's ex-mistress, and several other Kanakas.  All of them were half-drunk.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After driving on for a short distance, we reached the valley near the American Fork, where Sutter's camp was situated.  There were only a few white men, in addition to Sutter, and some Indians, in the neighborhood; most of them were miners, who were forced to buy supplies from the captain.  It was a poor place to make purchases, however.  The next day the same wagon took us to the placer, where rich deposits were believed to have been found.  Passing through a beautiful flat valley for a time, we crossed over from the left to the right bank of the American Fork, then followed the stream, which was in a deep gorge, for several miles.  It had cut a smooth channel through reddish granite blocks, and, where the clear, foaming stream rushed swiftly through the pass, we were forced to break trail.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The wagon was built for heavy work; in places where the mountain was not steep, our supplies and equipment could be transported, but it was when we reached the lower and steeper slopes that it was useless.  In areas that were covered with dense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>On the left bank of the mountain slope there was a forbidding region, the most rugged spot on the south branch of the American Fork I had seen so far, where loose boulders and dirt often slid down during the rainy season.  Here we found a group of Kanakas, a huge American called Holmes,<ANCHOR ID="n10-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: a Scotsman known as Miller,<ANCHOR ID="n10-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1a">Possibly Jonathan Holmes, a Mormon traveler.  The <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-2a">This may be Feltis Miller who came west in 1847 and settled on Cache Creek.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>"Mr. Lienhard," Sutter said one day, "sometime I will prove how much I appreciate you; you are not like most men who leave me as soon as they think they have a chance to make more money somewhere else.  You will never regret staying with me.  Some day you will find out why."</P>
078.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding, I learned that he had supplied Indian workers under the same arrangement he had made with me to a young man, a stranger whom he had never seen before; in fact, he gave them to everyone as readily as he did to me.  I confess I felt hurt; it should have taught me how little I could depend on what he said.  The only advantage I had over the other miners was the fact that I could talk with my Indians, who proved to be fairly good workers, and that I had a washer.  The other men washed all their gravel in pans, were unaccustomed to hard work, and the natives could not understand what they said.  But I did not have Sutter to thank for any advantages I might have had.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Holmes and Miller, especially the latter who had been a sailor at one time, were large, husky men, whom I considered it wise to watch.  The place where a machine could have been set up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The next day I found a place where the rocker could be set up; and there I went to work.  While the first results were far from encouraging, luck soon began to improve, but I knew I could never take in the fifty dollars a day Sutter believed possible.  The amount washed was satisfactory, however.  Much as I felt the need of a good crowbar again, I had to work without one.</P>
078.sgm:<P>A day or two passed before Sutter, accompanied by several Indian servants carrying lances or spears, visited me; he said he had just had word from the fort that his eldest son, J. A. Sutter,<ANCHOR ID="n10-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-3a">Sutter had been expecting his son, John August, as early as April, 1846, for that month he wrote to his friend, "My son will be here in a few months.  He will be an able clerk, as he has made his apprenticeship in one of the first houses of Switzerland."  <HI REND="italics">Letter from Sutter to W. A. Leidesdorff</HI>
078.sgm:, New Helvetia, April 17, 1846.  MS. Huntington Library.  He reached California in August, 1848.  A letter written soon after his arrival is given in Zollinger,<HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
078.sgm:<P>The captain assured me he would not use it, and that his son would return it any time I came to the fort.  So unexpected was his request that I looked at him doubtfully, not believing he was serious; I had divided everything I had made with him, and although he still owed me more than eleven hundred dollars, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>A richer vein at the placer was now discovered; in ten days I took out two thousand dollars' worth of gold, but this pocket was soon exhausted and could not be thoroughly worked without a crowbar.  Had I had one, I could have washed the same amount of gold in a much shorter time.</P>
078.sgm:<P>It was not long after that I became better acquainted with Holmes and Miller, whom I had not liked at first, but they conducted themselves so quietly, industriously, and decently that my dislike faded away, and I began to have more and more confidence in them.  Holmes's father lived in the Sandwich Islands, where he owned considerable property; he married a native woman, whom the son disapproved of, I believe.  Holmes was a pleasant man about my age, but I soon found out that he drank heavily, and after he had had too much he was very irritable.  My Scotch friend, Miller, had been a sailor for many years.  He was a large, affable, handsome man, who enjoyed a sip of brandy, but was not a steady drinker, and we became good friends after a time.  Listening to his tales of life in Scotland and his experiences at sea was always enjoyable.  He had been second mate on a warship owned by Chili.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Jim, the negro, seemed bright and sensible; he was a quiet man who worked industriously.  As the Kanakas were well-behaved, too, there was nothing to disturb us.<ANCHOR ID="n10-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: All our supplies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1b">Brief omission in folio 137.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>As Sandwich Islanders are remarkable swimmers, our boys lost no time diving in the deepest spots in the river.  After each plunge they would bring up several freshwater clams, and would work until they had gathered a large number of them.  They were put in hot water to remove the shells, then rolled in thin salted dough, and finally baked in a pan with fat.  I asked for one of their clams, and found it delicious.  Much as I wanted some more, I was unable to dive for them.<ANCHOR ID="n10-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-2b"> Omission in folio 138 describing lengthy conversations between the negro, the Kanakas, and Holmes.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>About this time Sutter told me he intended to move again because he had received reliable information about a place in the mountains south of the Cosumnes, where a man could wash one hundred and fifty dollars in gold dust in a day; it sounded like a real bonanza.  The captain sent word he would send several wagons to move his own belongings and those of the Kanakas, and I was instructed to come to the lower camp and wait there for the conveyances.  Breaking camp early one morning, the boys and I started for Sutter's old mining claim.  Two of my Indians took charge of our rocker, which could be moved only by being carried through the foaming waters of the American River--a heavy task even for husky natives--; the others carried tools and equipment four miles over rocky country bordering the river.<ANCHOR ID="n10-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-3b">Unimportant sections of folios 138 and 139 have been omitted at this point.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The following day Sutter's newest camp, situated in a pleasant valley surrounded by rolling hills, was reached.  Already a crowd of miners had gathered there, but Sutter was the only one who owned a tent.  He had brought two or three friends with him; I was told they were highway robbers and scoundrels, who acquired gold by any method that did not involve honest labor.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Many times I regretted my foolishness in having given Sutter his half of the gold mined at the first claim.  Often I think of my stupidity, and wonder why I was so blind.  His share came to almost a thousand dollars, and he was so careless with his gold that I was amazed that all of it was not stolen when he had so many men of questionable character among his associates.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Having expected to find extremely rich placers, I was surprised to find so many idle miners.  When I asked where the rich placers Sutter had written about were situated, no one could give me a satisfactory answer.  Even Sutter was forced to admit that the gold strike had been considerably exaggerated.  Few sites for washing gold were available in the new neighborhood, and no rich deposits had been found; nevertheless, the old rascal had made a long trip to reach the camp.  Holmes, Miller, and I decided to make a pact.  None of us trusted Sutter's associates, who were enjoying his open-handed hospitality and seemed primarily interested in how much gold we miners had, so we decided to be on our guard.  My good old dog, Tiger, was the object of considerable attention, the more so when the men found out that no one dared come near us during the night, because the dog would attack anyone whose motives he suspected.<ANCHOR ID="n10-4">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-4">A discussion of Tiger's ability as a watch dog in folios 139 and 140 omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter become very loquacious after his eldest son arrived at the fort, and bragged about him constantly.  No one, he assured us, had the scientific knowledge his son had.  He also liked to hear himself praised, especially after he had been drinking, and if no one flattered him or made complimentary remarks about him, he would begin to talk about himself.  Adulation was characteristic of his own clique, but was rare among respectable people, and his friends were all men who tried to divert some of Sutter's reputed wealth into one of their own business ventures.  Such individuals usually had a title, either real or imaginary, but never anything below that of captain, and Sutter was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>He always kept their whiskey bottles, and his own, well-filled.  Men who came to him highly recommended received special attention; whiskey circulated constantly, and such expressions as "Gentlemen, my best respects to you," and other complimentary remarks were heard as drinks went the rounds.  After Sutter had become friendly with one group, another would appear and strike up cordial relations with the lion of the hour.  If there was no one to introduce these men, this is the way they would present themselves.  One of the strangers would knock at Sutter's door, and when he came out would say, "Captain Sutter, I believe?  I am sorry I do not know anyone to introduce us properly.  You see I am a stranger and have just arrived from the States where I heard so many wonderful things about you that I have been anxious to meet you at the earliest opportunity."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"With whom have I the honor of speaking?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"My name is Major X from Y, captain."</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter would bow and reply, "So you have heard about me in the States, major?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes, captain.  Everyone knows all about you, and how courteous you are to travelers.  You are famous for your hospitality."</P>
078.sgm:<P>Such flattery was never lost on Sutter.  He felt that so distinguished a visitor should be offered a glass of his best French brandy; over drinks he could find out what else the important army officer had heard about him.  "Major," he would say, "come in and have a glass of rare old brandy with me."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"I shall be highly honored, captain."</P>
078.sgm:<P>More and more compliments would be exchanged; as the stranger praised Sutter extravagantly, a second glass of brandy followed, then a third.  Finally the conversation would turn to business and the visitor would tell how much money a gentleman like Sutter could make if he backed certain business schemes.  An enterprise that would net the investor fifty or a hundred thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Another rap on the door would be heard.  Two more gentlemen would appear as the major was leaving.  "So you are the great Captain Sutter?" they would say.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes, gentlemen."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"I trust you will pardon us for coming to call without being properly introduced.  We have just arrived and are strangers.  But we could not pass your famous fort without paying our respects to a noble man like yourself.  Captain Sutter, this is Judge X, from Y."</P>
078.sgm:<P>The judge and Sutter would bow courteously and the judge would take this opportunity to present his old friend Colonel Z to Sutter.  These gentlemen posed as belonging to fine old families, and Sutter, convinced of their importance, would be extremely courteous.  Although his head might be in a whirl from too much drinking with earlier visitors, he felt it would be a grave breach of dignity and etiquette to let two distinguished guests leave without sampling his superlative French liquor.  Glasses would be refilled, and more toasts proposed.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Flattering remarks about Sutter, toasts to the health of the noble discoverer of gold and the benefactor of all mankind, would follow.  Sutter would be so intoxicated by this time that the ground under him would begin to sway.  His guests, knowing from past experience that a man who is drunk usually loses all self-control, would leave with the remark that they would be honored to renew this acquaintanceship later on.  Sutter, swaying with dizziness and overwhelmed by the honor of having been visited by men of such distinction, and the knowledge that his reputation extended throughout the entire world, would now stumble or crawl into his bed which was surrounded by draperies, and pull the curtains.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The first summer after gold was discovered at the fort scenes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Here is a typical instance of the way he was cheated.  Sutter and several men, all of whom called themselves "captains," had laid out a city on a deep slough about four miles southwest of the fort, and called it Sutterville; the land was about half a mile back from the Sacramento.  I have forgotten the names of these so-called captains, except those of Sutter and Hastings.  At the time the gold rush reached its peak, Sutter was persuaded to enter business with the other three captains in Sutterville, who intended to open a mercantile house at one of the mines not far from the sawmill.  Sutter's contribution was furnishing wagons to carry merchandise to the camp, where the business was to be established.  He was to share in the proceeds on the same basis as the other three; the first year's profit it was estimated would be at least one hundred thousand dollars; twenty-five thousand each.  The plan was explained in detail by the three captains to Sutter, who was confident of its success.  The four partners called themselves the Sutterville Mining Company.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter listened eagerly to the plans of its founders, the immense business it would do, the profits it would make.  Any doubts I might express about it were unwelcome.  "No, no, Mr. Lienhard, you don't understand," he would say "These men are gentlemen who know what to do, men in whom I have the utmost confidence."</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Although Sutter's wagons were used constantly by the Sutterville Mining Company, and the profits were believed to be considerable, the partners told him the business had not paid, that there had been heavy losses, but that they expected improvement.  Finally the captain talked less and less about it, then never mentioned it unless someone asked about the Sutterville Mining Company.  All the early enthusiasm had disappeared.  His wagons were still being used, but no dividends were ever paid.  Finally his patience was exhausted; he expressed a desire to withdraw, but was told that his partners had invested many additional thousands of dollars and that if he wanted to leave, he would have to bear his share of the losses.  It was an unpleasant shock to the susceptible captain.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>INTIMATE GLIMPSES OF SUTTER</P>
078.sgm:<P>With its motley crowd of Germans, Americans, Englishmen, and Frenchmen, its black, brown, and white men, the camp was rarely dull.  One of the miners working near me was a Frenchman; he was known as the Consul.<ANCHOR ID="n11-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1a">This appears to be Jacob Moerenhout, of Belgium, the first French Consul in California.  He reached California on the <HI REND="italics">Brillante</HI>
078.sgm: in October, 1846, and visited the mining camps in the summer of 1848 after gold was discovered.  See Abraham P. Nasatir, "The French Consulate in California," <HI REND="italics">Cal. Hist. Soc. Quarterly</HI>
078.sgm:<P>His favorite of the moment was an Indian called Mary, who had been the mistress of Perry McCoon,<ANCHOR ID="n11-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-2a">Perry McCoon was an English sailor who had lived in California several years.  In 1845 he had acquired a ranch near the fort and operated a boat on the river.  He was married twice, the second time to one of the Donner girls.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Although several miners were already on their horses, many more were about to mount, and Sutter's mule, as well as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes, gentlemen," he said, "during the fight at Grenoble in which I was exposed, I received a bayonet wound in one of my legs.  Our major, who happened to be standing nearby, noticed how the blood ran down over my white trousers and called, `Captain Sutter is wounded; take him back where he can be treated.'  But I told them to go on, and went on fighting with my sword."</P>
078.sgm:<P>When a man is lying, he is apt to tell the same story differently, yet Sutter had related this same story about the fight several times with so little variation that I began to believe he had taken part in the battle, although I never understood why he was wearing white trousers.  In fact, Sutter told so many tales about his career in the French army that I believed them, and later on, much to my astonishment, these same stories about his military record appeared in books.  Madame Sutter and the two younger sons told me these tales were fictitious; what Germans would call plain lies.</P>
078.sgm:<P>That day we did not leave the camp but unsaddled our animals, Sutter being too intoxicated to ride.  Small children and fools, the saying goes, are apt to speak the truth and show themselves as they actually are, and a drunkard has much in common with them, for he is half child and half fool.  To this Sutter was no exception; when he talked about his past, present, and future, he was determined to pose as a hero, especially in the presence of brave, bright and scholarly men, or exceptionally cultivated gentlemen.  It was quite obvious from his own statements and from the loud tone of voice in which he related his stories.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Referring to his knowledge of foreign languages, he often said, "Gentlemen, I can converse in four different languages, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The word <HI REND="italics">gentleman</HI>
078.sgm:<P>I considered his statements unreliable, for I had never known a man to be persecuted because of free political opinions anywhere in Switzerland, either in Basel, or Burgdorf, Canton of Berne.  Afterwards I found out from one of his sons that in politics Sutter was a conservative.  This seemed logical, for he was always proud of his own birth and that of his family, and was apt to look down on men whose character was superior to his own with the remark, "Oh well, when one is of such or such a family--"</P>
078.sgm:<P>This time Sutter's drinking spree lasted about three days.  It was in no way extraordinary; he was never entirely sober.  A drunkard, as I have said, usually reveals his true character, and as events subsequently proved Sutter was not an exception to the rule.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:All that day and into the evening, when most campers preferred to sleep, he talked, disclosing many unusual episodes in his life.  That night Mary, her husband, and two small Indian girls made their beds in the bushes about thirty yards from Sutter's tent, and after dark Sutter, coatless and without a hat on his foolish head, went to the retreat where Mary and her husband were sleeping or resting.  The majority of those who had camped on the ground were still awake, and although quiet, they watched Sutter depart.<ANCHOR ID="n11-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1b">Sutter's threat to shoot Mary for spurning his attentions, as well as her American protector, Perry McCoon, caused a near riot in camp.  Folios 141 and 142 describing the captain's drunken conduct have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Our trip to the placer had been a failure; no gold deposits of any value had been found nearby.  When I was ready to leave, Sutter told me his son would pay me everything he owed me at the fort.  This money I intended to use to buy articles Indians liked which could be exchanged for gold dust.  My plan was to return to the mountains and trade with the natives, where my slight knowledge of their language would prove useful, and I intended to take a little Indian boy with me, if Sutter were willing.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When we left camp and returned to the fort, I did not have much to carry, for with the exception of the clothing I wore, I had taken along only a few shirts.  In addition to them, two woolen blankets, two guns and a thousand dollars in gold dust were all I had.  The gold and my best guns I carried myself; four of my most reliable Indians packed the other belongings and the food.  As our trip was made on foot, I expected to reach Perry McCoon's house, where I planned to stay overnight, the evening of the first day.  We left Sutter's camp, where I had had such poor luck, in high spirits and traveled rapidly, for the distance from Sutter's quarters to McCoon's ranch must have been at least forty miles.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I have never been a good walker, and that day I realized the fact acutely.  Anyone attempting to cover long distances should travel without encumbrances, and although I did not seem to feel the weight of the gold and the gun for a time, yet I soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Upon reaching the bank of the river, I decided to spend the night there, near the road.  Although it was only about three miles futher to McCoon's Ranch, it would have been impossible for me to have reached there that evening, even if my boys had been willing to travel the extra distance.  We had had nothing to eat that night, and, in order to make the sleeping quarters for my exhausted body as comfortable as possible, my boys brought me in a quantity of long tules that grew near the shore of the stream.</P>
078.sgm:<P>At dawn the next morning we resumed our trip, and I dreaded the long stretch that lay ahead, if we expected to reach Sutter's Fort by night  The sun had risen before we reached Perry McCoon's place, but the owner was not up yet.  At this ranch I rested for a few hours, had breakfast there, and became acquainted with Mr. McCoon's young white wife.  She was not over sixteen or seventeen years of age, scarcely more than a child, and I could readily see why he preferred her to the Indian squaw, Mary.  But McCoon seemed to retain a little affection for his ex-mistress who had not forgotten him either, and the evening Sutter pursued her she escaped and went to the camp of her former friend, whom Sutter swore he would kill.  The next morning McCoon went to the captain, and told him he could have Mary if he wanted her, because he had a white wife now and would be obliged to give up his Indian squaw.  Pacified by these remarks, Sutter made no more attempts to shoot Perry as he had threatened to do.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Perry McCoon was one of the first American settlers in California.  Although a sailor at one time, he had left the sea for the life of a ranchero, having secured the grant of land on which he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Several years later in the spring of 1850, soon after I had returned with the Sutters from Switzerland, I spent a short time at Hock Farm.  One day Perry McCoon, looking quite seedy, appeared uninvited at the table, just as if he had the right to be there; all he had left was an ox cart, and a yoke of oxen with which he was trying to make a living.  I also met the Englishman, Mr. Smith, who was Nye's partner and who had a ranch several miles above Mimal, driving a wagon and one yoke of oxen, his sole possessions.  I heard he had squandered every thing else he owned.</P>
078.sgm:<P>For the simple breakfast I had with him Perry McCoon charged a good price.  Expecting payment was contrary to the code of most early settlers, who were extremely hospitable.  A horse belonging to Sutter had been left at the ranch, when it could not travel any further; McCoon said it had been resting several days, and should be strong enough to carry me to the fort.<ANCHOR ID="n11-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-2b">Brief omission in folio 142.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>When we reached our final destination it was dark.  As Sutter's son did not know me personally, I located the Irish overseer, Bray, and asked him to introduce me.  We started out to look for the young man, and soon found him in the fort.  When August Sutter heard Bray mention my name, he asked if I was the Lienhard he had heard his father talk about so often.  Bray said he thought so; he did not recall having heard Sutter mention any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>That evening I did not mention finances to young Sutter, thinking that if I received my money a day later, it would be just as satisfactory.  I stayed with my old friend Huggenberger, who had the same little room he had before in the west end of the fort, where he did as much work as several blacksmiths, and cooked his own plain meals.  A cup of good coffee, a loaf of bread, a piece of fried beef occasionally satisfied his simple needs.  The following day I asked young Sutter for my money; he merely looked at me in surprise, however.  "My father told me to credit you with one thousand and forty dollars," he said, "but he did not tell me to deposit the money and hold it for you.  I do not understand what your arrangements with my father were."<ANCHOR ID="n11-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-3a">In the fall of 1848 Sutter became so heavily involved that he transferred all his property to his son to escape his creditors.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I replied that I wanted gold, because I intended purchasing articles suitable for trading with the Indians.  He assured me he would pay me with the first dust he received, and expected any day to receive funds from his father; but I knew what that meant.  In desperation I wrote a letter to Sutter pointing out the fact that he had disappointed me again, and that my gold was not at the fort.  His son, I added, had assured me he would settle the account with the first money he took in, but had nothing on hand to pay me with now, but remaining at the fort was expensive, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Delay at the fort waiting for my gold entailed a daily expenditure of six dollars, but it gave me ample time to watch the now wild and unrestrained life at the fort.  Everyday I saw men who were coming in or going out to the mines squandering part or often all of their newly-acquired gold.  Losses were commonplace.  A bar stood in the basement of the big house that had been erected on the southwest corner inside the fort, where drinks sold for fifty cents' worth of gold dust.  In this lawless country, the amount was weighed in gold scales; I suspect, however, that the weights were too heavy, because the scales were so slow in balancing, and the person who bought a drink probably paid closer to a dollar than fifty cents.  A group of shysters had opened a gambling den in one of the southern rooms on the east side of the fort, which was open to the public, and the first thing a man back from the mines was apt to do was to go to the bar and try to drown the memories of hardships and privations he had suffered.  Gold was taken out of buckskin pouches and several drinks were first ordered before serious drinking began.  Everyone in the room was gruffly invited to join.</P>
078.sgm:<P>If, occasionally, a bystander declined, it was taken as a personal insult by the dispenser of free drinks, and the miner would either ask if his society was not good enough, or he might draw his bowie knife, or revolver, and punish the onlooker, who had insulted him by his refusal.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I was told that, during the three weeks I stayed at the fort waiting for my gold to arrive from Sutter, one man had been stabbed, and another shot at the bar.  The infamous person who had charge of dispensing the liquor was one of the most repulsive creatures I have ever come into contact with, before or after.  What an unfavorable impression this man made on me when I saw him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>He was of medium height, but extremely plump and strong; he had a pair of broad feet, not unlike those of a great, grizzly bear, and his eyes were light gray, and looked out with a sinister gleam between his untidy locks.  As a bartender, he seemed even more disreputable.  Loud in his own praises, he bragged that he had ten thousand dollars in gold; it wasn't surprising, for many careless, drunken miners who stretched out on the ground at the fort at night in a stupor would wake up the next morning and find that the gold they carried had been stolen.  This same creature subsequently became constable, and another shady character, his brother-in-law, was made justice of the peace.  How they acquired these offices, for they were not chosen by the people, I cannot say.</P>
078.sgm:<P>A band of five horse thieves was also organized at the fort; the disreputable constable was an active member of this group, and the dishonorable justice of the peace was undoubtedly a silent partner.  I was also told that men who stopped at the fort and tied their horses within the enclosure, while they went inside for a few minutes, often found upon returning, that their horses had vanished, and could not be found.<ANCHOR ID="n11-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-3b">Certain sections of folio 143 have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Not long after my return to the fort, young Sutter came to see me and asked me what I thought about some advice he had received from a former elder of the Mormon church, Mr. Brannan, who had told him that it would be unwise to build a city on the site where Sutterville had been laid out, because no one could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Brannan advised young Sutter to make his plans immediately, because a United States engineer<ANCHOR ID="n11-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-4a">William H. Warner, of the U. S. topographical engineers, made the survey.  The streets were from 80 to 100 feet wide and those paralleling the river were called First, Second, etc.  The blocks were 320x400 feet and had 20-foot alleys.  An auction sale of lots was held at the fort on Jan. 8, 1849.  Those near the river and adjoining the fort sold rapidly and speculation in city lots made quick fortunes.  Building began early in 1849.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Mr. Brannan had the reputation of being an intelligent man, however, and I could not see any ulterior motives in his suggestions, so I said I thought his advice was sound.  In years to come I often blamed myself for the name, Sacramento City, that was selected; the town should have been called Sutter's City.  It would not have affected its future prosperity, the vanity of the elderly Sutter would have been flattered, and the son would have risen in the father's estimation.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The name, Sacramento City, a city incidentally that grew rapidly, shattered Sutter's most cherished ambition to immortalize his name, and made him very angry, but he could not alter it, for he had given his son full power to act in his behalf for the period of a year, a power his son held in writing.  The development of the new center prevented Sutterville from becoming a metropolis, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Several unflattering expressions and phrases were used by Sutter in connection with his son, and they were repeated to the young man in magnified form; the gossip made a breach between them, which the ex-speculators tried to widen, but after several little experiences they discovered that the son was not nearly so easy to deceive as the father was.  Letters written by Captain Sutter to his son, after he heard about Sacramento City, were full of criticism.  To a large extent I was to blame, he said.  Sutter was correct; I had not done this from selfish motives, however, but because Brannan's suggestion was a sound one.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, I had been staying at the fort three weeks waiting to get my gold back, and during that time my room and board amounted to a considerable sum.  Although I was tired of waiting, August Sutter did not seem to want me to leave, and I believe he would have paid me if he had had the gold.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Offering to settle with me some other way, he asked if I would take land, cattle, horses, pigs, or sheep, and said he wanted to be as fair with me as he could.  As I was obliged to abandon my cherished plan of trading with the Indians, I decided to take about eleven hundred head of sheep; August Sutter and I agreed on a price of three dollars a head, and I was also given the privilege of using some extra corrals that had been built for the sheep, and two adobe sheep herder's huts, two miles east of the fort, and half a mile from the bank of the American Fork.  Moreover, I was allowed to keep three Indian boys for sheep herders as long as I owned animals acquired from him.  I received a silo, too; he believed he would lose it if I did not take it, for the outlaws considered everything common property.  The total came to thirty-three hundred dollars, so I still owed nine hundred dollars, and was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The day after I took possession of the sheep, an American called Morris,<ANCHOR ID="n11-5a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-5a">This appears to be Samuel Norris, a well-known trader at Sutter's Fort and San Francisco, and a member of the firm of Shelly and Norris.  See <HI REND="italics">Supra V</HI>
078.sgm:<P>For shepherds I selected Konnock and Abaya, who were dependable, and a boy about six or seven years of age, called Hansch, who acted as cook for the two youths.  I did not regret leaving the fort; I was not like the habitual carousers who loitered there, and without being egotistical, I may say that Huggenberger and I were the only two men who had not been intoxicated.  Drunkenness seemed to be the daily condition of everyone, even men who should have remained sober.</P>
078.sgm:<P>What the social life at the fort was like can be imagined.  Young Sutter, whom I genuinely admired, was a man of moderate tastes, and this crude wild life must have been abhorrent to him.  Let me describe a typical incident that took place.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One evening I was standing outside Huggenberger's door talking with him; I was holding my horse, Johnny, by a rope.  Several men in the large house just across from us were amusing themselves shooting firecrackers, which they set off at random in the fort.  Several fell on the dry shingles of the roof and did not die out at once.  Others were aimed at us.  Johnny was in a panic; sometimes the crackers flew under his feet and at other times near his side.  One of them even exploded directly behind one of his ears.  Amusement of this kind may have entertained the participants, but it was the mischievous conduct of ill-mannered boys, conduct grown men should be ashamed of, and yet they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>One of them was a Bostonian, Dr. Heyerman,<ANCHOR ID="n11-6">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: the spoiled son of a wealthy father; another whom I had met in Sutter's camp not far from the Cosumnes, called Lang,<ANCHOR ID="n11-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-6">Dr. A. Heyerman, who came west on the <HI REND="italics">Clementine</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-7">Charles Lang who came out from Boston on the <HI REND="italics">Sabine</HI>
078.sgm:<P>When the firecrackers they were handling threatened to become dangerous, young Sutter called out in a curt voice, "Stop it, you fools."  But these fine gentlemen did not think he had spoken courteously enough and Heyerman, who was standing near Huggenberger's room, asked Sutter to repeat the names he had called them.  I was afraid this episode might come to an unpleasant end and tried to calm them, but Sutter, who was surprised at this quick retort, justified himself by saying that he did not mean anything by it, but had merely been afraid that the fort would be set on fire.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Young Lang, another worthless son of a rich father, decided to make some extremely vulgar remarks about the captain.  Although I had scant respect for old man Sutter, yet the coarse words of these men, who had taken advantage of his hospitality, seemed unfair; I told him that even if he had no respect for Sutter, he should show some respect for old age, by not indulging in such language.<ANCHOR ID="n11-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-4b">Folio 144, containing a lengthy discussion of Lang, has been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Sheep-raising was interesting, and I was happier than I had been for a long time.  Not only did it provide a refuge from a life that had but little to recommend it, but I was my own master as well.  My Indian boys and I lived in a hut near the center of the east wall.  Near the northeast corner of the corral stood another hut, and there was a deep pond that retained a comparatively large amount of water even during the dry season nearby, that was fed by the overflow from the American Fork.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>This corral covered about half an acre; it was approximately sixty or seventy yards long and forty yards wide, and was divided into two parts, the southern being the larger.  The wall, which was made of adobe, was about six feet high and twelve or fourteen inches thick, and round holes similar to those used for guns had been cut in it.  One entrance faced east, and the other north, and both could be locked by a solid double gate.  Although the one-story adobe houses had doors that opened on the east side, no provision had been made for windows; but the hut on the south side had an opening about four inches broad and eighteen inches high in the southern wall, however, that let in light and air, and through this opening part of the inner corral was visible.  The northern hut had a similar opening on the west, and in both huts the stoves were on the north side, and stood on the floor, made of hard clay.  Overhead rafters extended from south to north, and on the east, some seven feet off the ground, were beams.  The main room was not more than thirteen feet square.  The furniture in my hut consisted of a rough wooden bench, a box, my chests, one or two kettles, a coffee or tea pot, and several tin vessels, plates, and tin cups.  My bed was a straw sack that I had brought from Switzerland, and two woolen blankets, which I spread out on the floor in the southwest corner of the room.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In addition to flour, sugar, tea, and sometimes beans and peas, our main food was mutton.  There was an endless supply of it.  The gold rush had made heavy inroads on our pasturage, because so many animals, especially mules and horses were brought in by miners to graze.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Less and less feed was available for my sheep, and I began to believe I might have to keep them alive on wheat Sutter had given me.  Early in the summer I fed them on it to prevent its being taken by men bound for the mines, who helped themselves to anything they could find for their horses.  If this wheat had been stored at the sheep farm, I might have succeeded in checking this thievery, but as it was, I could not stop their widespread pilfering.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I used my horse, Johnny, almost exclusively for riding.  While I was at the mines he, as well as my mare and filly, had been left in the care of one of Sutter's vaqueros, who rode him frequently; I paid him ten dollars for his work.<ANCHOR ID="n11-5b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-5b">Brief omission in folio 144.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Often several of my sheep disappeared at night, and I decided to show anyone who attempted to steal them that he could not escape punishment.  No one except Alcalde Sinclair, who lived on the opposite bank of the American River and had about eighty head, had any sheep nearby, but as he was cut off by the river from the main route to the mines, he was less exposed to the inroads of miners than I was.  A well-traveled trail to the placers led past my sheep ranch; north was another trail not so widely used, leading from the fort by way of the American Fork, and on past Sinclair's property.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Not long after I moved to the sheep farm, Mr. Keseberg and his wife came to live in the hut on the northern end of my land.  They paid forty-five dollars rent a month, I believe.  They furnished my meals but I paid for them.  As Keseberg was an expert hunter, there was often wild goose on his table; it was cooked in the French manner, and was so underdone that the blood ran out when the bird was carved.  At first it was hard for me to swallow half-raw goose, and I could not help thinking of the time Keseberg was alone in the Sierra Nevadas, where he had been snowed in, and had similar meals on the flesh of his fellowmen.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Keseberg made several attempts to turn the conversation to his lonely vigil in the mountains, and the hideous way he kept himself alive, but I changed the subject every time.  Even the thought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Signs indicating that winter was approaching, many of the emigrants wanted to kill the animals that were used to pull the wagons, to supply them with food, and keep them from starvation until the settlements were reached, or help arrived, but several men owning animals believed weather conditions might improve and did not favor this plan.  They wanted to save pet animals they had brought from the states, and could not come to a mutual decision.  One night a heavy snow fell, and by morning the ground was a blanket of white; in the darkness the oxen, searching for food, broke away.  Snows falling incessantly completely covered their tracks and made it impossible to recover more than a few of them; these were killed, but the small amount of meat was soon exhausted, and it was not long before the ravages of hunger were apparent.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Emigrants began to cook and consume leather belts and worn buffalo pelts, but, unaccustomed to these hardships, many became ill and exhausted.  Exposure to cold and hunger took its toll, remedies needed in such emergencies were not to be had, and death soon claimed many vicitims.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Although a relief party had been sent up from the settlements <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Later he was charged with having murdered Mrs. Donner,<ANCHOR ID="n11-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-8">The Donners were a wealthy family from Illinois.  Several of the children were saved, but Mrs. George Donner remained in camp, and refused to leave her dying husband.  Keseberg was accused of her death, but denied all charges.  Her money disappeared.  See Bryant, <HI REND="italics">op</HI>
078.sgm:.  <HI REND="italics">cit</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Soon after his arrival, he was questioned at length by Alcalde Sinclair.  At this time his innocence was clearly established, and the men who brought the charges were proved to have been the very men who had tried to force a confession by threats of lynching.  These rascals may have been associated with a band of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>He was a tall, intelligent man of military bearing, a Prussian, apparently, who had served with the infantry.  He also said he had once been a traveling salesman for a business firm, had often visited Paris, and spoke both French and German fluently.  Considering the short time he had been in America, his English was excellent; he also understood and could speak a few words of Spanish.  Keseberg's greatest weakness was his unbridled temper, and one day he confessed that it was the source of considerable embarrassment to him.  After his anger had subsided, he always realized his mistake and was extremely penitent.  He gave every indication of being an honorable person; I preferred him to many men who had not been accused of having eaten human beings.  His residence at the sheep ranch was a brief one lasting only a month or two.  While he was there he often suffered from cold and fever, and at such times was restless and irritable.<ANCHOR ID="n11-3c">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-3c">A section of folio 145, describing a meeting with a skunk, has been omitted at this point.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>LAW AND OUTLAWS</P>
078.sgm:<P>Not long after I moved away from the fort, a trial was held, and a jury of twelve men summoned; the ex-bartender and horse thief, who was now constable, was asked by his honorable brother-in-law, the alcalde, to select the jury.  The case concerned a lieutenant of volunteers, who had just received his discharge and happened to meet a huge German, an ex-volunteer against whom he had a grudge.  He tried to show his hatred and exact revenge by stabbing him with a bowie knife.  Both men were on horseback; the American, notwithstanding the German's warning to keep his distance, galloped over with a drawn knife, and attempted to wound him several times.  The American paid no attention to the German's words although the man had a loaded pistol in his hands and threatened to shoot if he came near again.  The latter finally fired several times with such accuracy that the American was killed.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The infamous group from the fort believed this was an excellent opportunity to see a German hanged, although the man had acted in self-defense, and only after his warnings had been disregarded.  The horse-thief constable asked me to serve on the jury, and when I declined said, "I don't care a d-- for you Dutchmen, anyway.  I can get better men than you are anywhere."</P>
078.sgm:<P>I had no doubt he could find any number who would declare the man guilty, and this was what he and his accomplices wanted.  Not one member of the jury was a German, and all were Americans, I believe, but two or three jurors refused to declare him guilty, and the man was released.  One of the men who declined to vote for his death was an honest American.  He told <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:me that the day after the trial was over he received several threats for failing to find the German guilty, but that he had acted according to his conscience because he was convinced that the other man was the aggressor, that the German tried to get out of his way, warned him not to attack, then acted in self defense.<ANCHOR ID="n12-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1a">Sections of folios 145 and 146 describing Lienhard's meeting and conversation with this German culprit, his loss of sheep by coyotes, and troubles with his Indians, have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>One time a man rapped on my door about midnight asking for lodgings.  I hesitated, but finally opened it, gun in hand.  My caller must have been drinking, for he did not know where he had come from, or where he was going, and slept heavily all night, snoring every moment.  The next morning after breakfast he left.  Another time some of my former traveling companions brought an Englishman with them from the fort; the man was called Thompson,<ANCHOR ID="n12-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1b">There is no clue to his identity.  Many Thompsons had come to California, most of them with the army.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Another evening a strange young man dressed in buckskin clothes arrived, and inquired the best way to cross the swollen waters of the American Fork.  He said he hoped to secure employment as a vaquero from Mr. Sinclair.  Old Jacob Durr was with me, and neither of us thought he could cross the river in the dark, so we decided to put him up for the night if he came back.  Durr and I were surprised that he was not bound for the gold mines.  Suspicious that he had probably been a miner, gone to the fort, gambled, drank, and lost all his gold, I decided to find out for myself when he came back.  We did not have to wait long before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>When we had finished, the talk turned to mining and continued for some time.  A brief pause followed.  I reopened the conversation by saying how strange it was that men who had deprived themselves of so much and had amassed several thousand dollars in gold, came down to the fort and, after heavy drinking, attempted to atone for their privations by going into the gambling room, and after watching a few men win by sheer luck, would decide to try their skill at the game.  There, if they won a few times, they would become excited, play for higher stakes, and begin to lose steadily.  To recuperate their losses, they would drink again, become even more excited, and not stop until their last ounce of gold dust had been gambled away.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I discussed this in a quiet tone of voice and the man listened intently with glowing eyes.  There was another long silence, and then the young man said, "You have described my fate exactly.  About three days ago I arrived at the fort with twenty-five hundred dollars in gold.  I drank, went into the gambling room to try my luck, gambled, and lost everything.  Now there is not even a dollar in my pocket, and if I had not left two hundred of it with. Bill Daylor<ANCHOR ID="n12-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-2a">William Daylor, who was at Sutter's Fort and at the mines, owned a ranch on the Cosumnes.  Daily in the MS.  See <HI REND="italics">supra</HI>
078.sgm:<P>The three major vices in California at this time that invariably led to ruin were drinking, gambling, and associating with casual women; these vices will never lead to anything but misery, even if a man succumbs only to one of them, and if he abandons himself to all three, his downfall is inevitable.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The last week in December, 1848, Mr. Miller, Holmes's partner, came to see me.  He had gone to the fort to attempt to collect six hundred dollars the captain owed him from young Sutter.  Sutter senior had sent him, as he had me, to see his son, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:had already paid so many of his father's debts that he believed they were endless.  I was fond of Miller, although the first time I saw him at the mines with Holmes, I was prejudiced against both of them, merely because they were ex-sailors.  He talked about his old home in Scotland, and his pretty daughters, so I knew he was homesick for his fatherland and wanted to see his children again.  He left on the morning of December 31, 1848; I never heard anything more of him.<ANCHOR ID="n12-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-2b">Folio 147, describing nocturnal visits by neighboring Kanakas who attempted to steal Lienhard's sheep, has been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>One night I was lying in bed, I remember, unable to sleep for thinking about business, when I thought I heard the sound of horses.  Listening intently, I was convinced I was not mistaken and from the sounds I decided that several riders must be approaching the corral.  As the trample of horses' hoofs kept coming closer to my hut, my dogs became restless and began to bark.  Then there was silence.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I got up quietly, and went to the door, opening it cautiously.  The men who were outside called "Good-evening."  I returned the greeting.  The moon had not come up, so it was still quite dark, but I could faintly see three men on horseback.  Two of them were white and one was dark; the latter resembled a Kanaka, Indian, or negro.  When the men asked if they could buy a sheep, I told them they could have one in the morning.  They replied that they had just arrived from the mines, were very hungry, wanted a sheep immediately, and asked how much they were.  "I sell them for eight dollars each during the day," I said, "but never make sales at night."  "Eight dollars?"  they cried, "Why we can buy them at the mines for three."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Really?  Then go back to the mountains and buy your sheep there."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"We're hungry," they replied, "and need food now.  We'll pay you one silver dollar and be satisfied with a lamb five or six months old."</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>"Keep your silver dollar," I called back, "I don't want it.  Gold is good enough for me.  You can't buy any sheep from me at night.  When it is light you can buy a sheep for eight dollars, my usual price; lamb is not any cheaper than mutton."</P>
078.sgm:<P>They inquired how far it was to the fort, and where the trail crossed the American Fork.  I gave them full and accurate directions and they departed after saying good night.  I lay down on my straw mattress, convinced they were either robbers or rogues who were trying to rob me, or the worst swindlers I had ever known in California if they thought they could come down from the gold mines and buy sheep at night for a dollar.  I was glad to see them leave, for I did not want that kind of business.  For a long time these thoughts kept drifting through my head; at times I thought I heard the sheep move restlessly, then everything seemed quiet once more, so I suspected a wolf or coyote had been around.  When the sheep began moving again I had visions of prowling wolves and considered sending Abaya to see what the trouble was.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The sheep continued to move in the corral; looking out through the little opening, I saw them gazing at something toward the west.  I woke Abaya, told him the sheep had been disturbed three times, and sent him to look around and find out whether wolves or men were causing the disturbance.  After Abaya left I went back to sleep.  He returned immediately and said quietly, "Take your gun; several thieves are out there.  They have horses and are attempting to get into the corral to steal sheep."  Seizing my double-barreled guns, I followed the boy.  He stopped south of the hut and pointed out two silhouettes visible against the horizon.  I had a bullet in one of my guns and a load of buckshot in the other, and knew if I shot the bullet, I might kill the thief, which I did not wish to do.  I preferred to scare the rascal; by firing buckshot a distance of forty feet I would not be so apt to injure him, so, taking rapid aim, I pulled the trigger.  A half-suppressed cry indicated I had struck my target.  I went Indian fashion toward the northeast stockade, and reached there in time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Rippstein, Diehl, and Bruner<ANCHOR ID="n12-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-3a">This seems to be Christian Bruner, who came west in 1846, and was employed by Sutter at the fort.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Upon returning to the hut, I loaded both guns with heavy charges, placed sixteen-inch shot in each barrel, and fastened my hunting knife to my belt.  For some time I watched fully armed, and, if the thieves had returned, I would have given them a warm reception indeed.  Half an hour later I heard the noise of water splashing in the American River, and could distinguish the sound of several animals wading.  The rogues seemed to consider it safer to cross the river than to go on to the fort or towards Sacramento, where I could find out what men had come in that night.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Although I knew I would not find them at the fort, I rode over there the following morning to ask if anyone had arrived last night.  No one was able to give me any information, but I met Major Reading,<ANCHOR ID="n12-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: a handsome, brave American, who lived about two hundred and fifty miles up the Sacramento Valley in a fort, where he passed his time among the Indians.  He often visited Sutter's Fort, where I had been formally presented to him once.  I told him about my recent experience; he looked at me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:thoughtfully, and I was afraid he might blame me, but he merely said, "You should have shot the fellows.  They might have shot you if they had a chance.  Men who steal do not hesitate to commit murder."<ANCHOR ID="n12-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-4a">Pierson B. Reading, who came west in 1843 from New Jersey.  He became one of Sutter's trappers, and held many positions of trust at the fort.  He settled on a ranch in Shasta County, but mined extensively during the gold rush.  He was one of the solid, substantial men of this era.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-3b">The balance of folio 148, and the first section of 149, describing sheep breeding, especially difficulties with wild animals and inclement weather, and Lienhard's own ill health, habe been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I have already mentioned Jacob Durr of Pratteln, Canton of Basel, and his Indian squaw, who lived with me for some time.  One day Durr told me that if my sheep were healthy in the spring he would like to go into partnership with me, provided I would sell him a half interest.  The weather had been good, the sheep had grown fat and healthy, and he said he was willing to buy half of them; we agreed on a price of twenty-four hundred dollars, I believe.  Since Durr had washed gold the summer before and had buried bottles containing about three thousand dollars' worth somewhere in the mines, he rode back to get it and pay me for the sheep.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I do not know whether he marked the hinding place, but only one bottle was found.  Fortunately it was the one that contained eighteen hundred dollars in gold dust.  The other had about twelve hundred dollars and Durr suspected that Mary, and one of her countrymen, an Oregon Indian, might have watched him dig the hole for the gold.  He gave me eighteen hundred dollars; the balance, which he borrowed, was paid in a short time.  We planned to drive the sheep to the mines when the grass was high and sell them to the workers.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Durr was a large, well-proportioned man about six feet tall.  Although fifty-four years of age, he still had an erect military bearing, having once served as a gunner in the Swiss guards in the French army during the revolution of July, 1830, when three Swiss regiments were stationed for three days in Paris, and fought side by side with the French troops.  When the war was over Durr was sent home from France with the other Swiss soldiers.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:took part in several more campaigns, including one in Spain<ANCHOR ID="n12-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:.  After living in the Rocky Mountains eight or nine years, he went to Oregon and down to California, where he participated in the war of the Spanish-Californians against Mexico and fought, together with American immigrants, with Sutter and his Indians on the Mexican side.<ANCHOR ID="n12-5a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: Durr was in charge of cannon during the war.  He told me Sutter had been made commander by the Mexican general, Micheltorena, how incompetent he was, and how Micheltorena soon discovered <HI REND="italics">el comandante</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-4b">Certain irrelevant incidents of Durr's life at Fort Laramie found in folios 149 and 150 have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-5a">In January, 1845, Sutter, who had collected an army of 220 white men and Indians to support Governor Micheltorena's campaign against Custer and Alvarado, left New Helvetia.  Their forces were defeated at the Battle of Cahuenga near Los Angeleson February 21, and the captain captured.  He was held in the house of Abel Stearns in Los Angeles for a time.  See Zollinger, <HI REND="italics">op, cit</HI>
078.sgm:<P>When Sutter, on the other hand, talked about his participation in the war, he told a very different story.  Although he admitted having been captured by the Californians and having been in danger of losing his life, yet he attempted to pose as a hero at all times.  To the contrary, Durr said that he was ashamed of his countryman who had talked so much about his military skill, and then proved to be not only an incompetent soldier, but a coward as well.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The Californians were remarkable riders, and skilfull with their lances in war; Sutter, with his cowardly Indians, his small company of American soldiers, and his two cannon, was no match for these well-mounted Californians, and unaccustomed to such speed, he knew it was inevitable that the enemy with their long lances would overtakehim.  A man called Thomas, who had been in Sutter's camp not far from the Cosumnes and had snatched the gun from his hands one time when he threatened to kill Perry McCoon and his Indian Mary, was the only soldier who remained behind with him.  Fearful he would fall off his horse, while riding at high speed, Sutter wept when he saw the enemy come up, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>When the proceeding was over, Durr left for Oregon, where he continued to lead the romantic life of a hunter.  One time near the Rogue River, which is either in southern Oregon or northern California, he met a number of Indians whom he knew slightly; one of them had a daughter thirteen years of age and wanted to exchange her for an old white horse that had cost Durr seven dollars.  He liked the girl, and arranged to make the transfer.  The Indian took the venerable animal and my friend acquired a squaw, whom he called Mary.  She was his constant companion from that day on.  When gold was discovered, he joined the rush to California and subsequently became my partner in the sheepraising industry.<ANCHOR ID="n12-5b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-5b">Details about Mary and Durr in folios 150 and 151 have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Superb weather and lush pasturage made us decide to leave the sheep ranch in April, and we decided to drive our herd toward the mines situated between the Cosumnes and the Mokelumne rivers.  Having gone several miles beyond the road that led to Mormon Island and the American River, we had started off across the prairie, when we met Rippstein and Diehl, who had set out for the mines several weeks before and were now returning to the fort.  The news they gave us was not encouraging.  Returns from the mines were small, they said, no extensive mineral deposits had been located, and there were many treacherous Indians nearby; Rippstein showed us a scar on one of his fingers made by an arrow one of the Indians had shot at him.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>He also told us about five or six white men, who had left on a short prospecting trip to locate richer placers.  In the afternoon the men reached a village that had been hastily abandoned by the Indians, a sign that the natives were afraid of them or had ulterior designs.  Nevertheless, they went several miles beyond, then decided to camp for the night, an extremely foolish and unwise decision, because they knew they were not far from hostile Indians.  If they had given any serious thought to the situation, they would have gone far beyond the Indian settlement before they camped.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I have always found that a man is not cautious unless he has been harmed; during the trip across the Rocky Mountains, Rippstein was brave, but inclined to be careless, because he had never been attacked by Indians, and so did not think it was necessary to take precautions against danger.  That night the men piled a large amount of wood on the campfire, then stretched out around it to sleep.  Experience has taught me that anyone in danger should keep the fire as low as possible, because it indicates to the enemy where camp has been made.<ANCHOR ID="n12-6a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-6a">Brief omission in folio 152.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Diehl and Rippstein told me they were about to drop off to sleep after their evening meal, when a premonition of danger made them decide to have a member of their party stand watch.  The man chosen was a Frenchman; instead of extinguishing the fire he added more wood.  Suddenly the cry "Indian" was heard.  Rippstein reached for his gun that was lying nearby, and was about to aim at one of the brown intruders when an arrow wounded his finger, and the gun fell from his hands.  The Frenchman, who had been on guard, received five arrows in his stomach during the attack, but had enough presence of mind to throw his woolen blankets over the fire, which was still burning.  Darkness prevented the Indians from being able to distinguish between their own tribe and the white men, and gave the miners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>After listening to this brief tale, Durr and I decided to retrace our steps and drive our sheep toward Coloma, where gold was first discovered.  We did not stop at Mormon Island, but moved on slowly until we reached a place where a temporary corral could be built by cutting down live oaks.</P>
078.sgm:<P>There we decided to camp.  I went to work immediately, and within an hour the corral, made of thick branches, was completed.  The next day we traveled over a sparse, dry plateau, and through a small valley that contained fresh water wells, where a stingy Yankee sold salt pork, salmon, and other supplies essential to life, to miners and Indians.  Even though the pasturage and water were excellent for our sheep and horses, we did not intend to remain longer than the following morning.  Our sheep and horse corral, made of boughs of live oaks, had been erected a short distance from an Indian camp on a hill; these Indians once worked for Sutter during harvest time and among them were several relatives of my boy, Konnock.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Several of the natives wished to buy sheep, and we had no difficulty agreeing on a price, and when our boys told their friends we intended to leave the next morning, they bought heavily.  The Indians urged us to remain; they said they would take many more sheep from us, insinuating that there was no reason for us to leave, when it made no difference whether we sold our sheep to white men or Indians.  These may have been the same natives who patronized the Americans, who were here before we arrived.</P>
078.sgm:<P>All day long camp was overrun by natives buying sheep; they  would not purchase salted and smoked pork and salmon, but wanted only fresh mutton.  Our sheep were sold at various prices.  Grown rams brought twelve dollars; the price was eighteen to twenty-three dollars for ewes, but Indians usually preferred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The day following some travelers who had come in on the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
078.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n12-6b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: the first steamer on the New York-San Francisco run, arrived and several of these ex-passengers, now en route to the mines, stopped at our camp.  They were heavily armed and had all the earmarks of being the scum of large cities of the east.  Glancing at the Indians loitering nearby, they said they would like to try their guns on them.  What flashed through their minds was something like this: "See that black devil.  Look at his wild eye.  Why not blow his brains out."  Yet they were the so-called civilized citizens of a nation that calls itself a highly-enlightened land.  These so-called good Christians would delight in extinguishing the spark of life in these harmless Indians.  I pointed out to the newcomers, who would like to shoot them, the fact that no matter how our natives looked, they were a placid, goodnatured race, and that we would not allow them to be harmed.  Finally they departed.<ANCHOR ID="n12-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-6b">The <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-7">Omission, folios 152 to 154, describing irrelevant details of life at the camp.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>A mile beyond our camp twenty men were washing gold on the shores of the American Fork; all were Germans, and among them were my three comrades, Thomen, Diehl, and Rippstein.  Halfway between us was a small Indian village ruled by a tall, handsome chieftain.  The abandoned village near the place where we were camping had been the home of my boy, Konnock, and his elder uncle had been its chief.</P>
078.sgm:<P>We lived peacefully with these Indians, who enjoyed loitering nearby, and never had any cause to complain about them.  Occasionally they would beg for something to eat, but I made them work for it, either starting fires or carrying water, which they did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Three miles beyond where we had camped, Weber Creek, which joined the American Fork, flowed through the mountains and when we reached there with our Indian guides, the stupid sheep refused to cross the water in spite of all the help the Indians gave us.  Almost frantic, we found some lambs and ewes, and tied them on the opposite bank, and although we collected twenty of them who bleated incessantly, yet the remaining sheep refused to cross.  As the sun was about to set, we decided to leave the sheep where they were.  They flocked together and we built a crude corral for them, camping nearby for the night.  Discovering gold in the sand and gravel of the creek near the surface, I told Durr that I believed a considerable amount of it might be found in the vicinity.  Two years later, when I was in Switzerland, I read about rich placers that had been discovered near where Weber Creek joins the American Fork, perhaps at this identical place.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<illus entity="a078-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LIENHARD'S HOUSE IN KILCHBERG, SWITZERLAND. Courtesy of Miss Mary Lienhard.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>INDIAN CEREMONIES</P>
078.sgm:<P>Although we returned to our former camp the next morning, we did not intend to remain there, for our flour was almost gone.  So critical was the situation that I told Durr it seemed advisable for me to stay behind while he went down to the valley and bought several hundred pounds more of it.  He agreed; and arranged to leave the next morning.  By using four horses he believed he could make the round trip in one day, but it was at least forty miles from our camp to Sacramento, and if he expected to return that same day he would have to travel eighty miles and would require at least four horses for riding and packing.  Durr left camp early Saturday morning, saying he would be back that night without fail.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The day passed as quietly as our days usually did.  Evening arrived, but Durr was not in sight, although I expected to see him appear any moment.  Finally some Indian boys from the neighboring village came into camp.  One of them spoke quickly to Konnock; the conversation was in a mountain dialect and I did not understand it very well, but I thought I heard something about death or killing.  Konnock looked grave, then questioned the boy once more as if he wanted to be sure he had heard correctly.  "Konnock," I asked, "didn't this boy say something about killing?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes," he replied, "some white men who were washing gold further up the river killed my uncle and another Indian, scalped them, and took their heads."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Have your uncle and the other Indian been buried?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"No, but they will bring his body back soon.  This is his home.  They will cremate his body, and bury the ashes."</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>"Do you mean to say," I went on, "that your relatives will bring the body here, burn it, and then bury the ashes the same evening?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes," the boy answered.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The situation, I knew, was an extremely serious one, and the more I thought about it, the more dangerous it seemed.  Why German miners, including my three comrades, had murdered and scalped the Indians, was incomprehensible, yet the locality where it had occurred appeared to be the identical place where our countrymen were washing gold, for they had left their former camp and moved six miles up the river.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Whenever anything was stolen the so-called Christian miners would invariably say, "Kill every d-- Indian you can find!"  If civilized and enlightened white men were willing to kill Indians for trivial offenses and without proof of their guilt, how could we, the white people who were at their mercy, hope to receive better treatment from these heathen?  I wondered what had prompted such an act.  The chief and his brother had visited us the previous evening, and as both of them were Konnock's relatives, we had received them cordially.  They had always been friendly Indians, and I did not care to see them harmed.  Soon after dusk Durr returned; I told him what I had heard, and he shook his head dubiously.  Both he and I had always considered the natives in this vicinity good-natured, stupid people, and had often remarked that if they had been like Rocky Mountain Indians, our lives would not have been safe.  Yet they might argue: White men have killed some of our people; to kill white men is our duty, without even attempting to find out whether we were guilty or not.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Our guns were kept cocked, ready for any emergency.  I had three shots and Durr had seven; he had exchanged his handsome gray mare for a large six-chamber Colt revolver, and in a crisis could give a good account of himself with the enemy.  As it grew dark, I heard the low moaning sounds, which I was so familiar with at Mimal, coming from three directions, and saw the dim <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Konnock wanted to attend his uncle's funeral, but before he left I told him that if his relatives felt any hatred toward the white men, he should tell them that we, too, were very angry about the murder of his uncle, and mourned for him, but that if we were attacked, we would defend ourselves bravely, although we believed they would not punish innocent men for the death of their relatives.  Konnock said he did not think anyone would harm us, because he was looking after us.  Then he departed.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When the Rogue River Indians and Mary wanted to follow him and watch the ceremony, Abaya advised them to keep away because his people were excitable and wild, and if a stranger entered their village while this ceremony was taking place, the relatives might revenge themselves on the visitors.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"I am a Sacramento Indian from a neighboring clan," he said, "but I would not go near their village.  I know how we ourselves feel at such times."</P>
078.sgm:<P>Soon signs of unusual activity were apparent.  A fire burning brightly in the distance seemed to be surrounded by dark silhouettes who began to moan one by one; others joined until the entire clan was groaning, crying, yelling, and making weird gestures.  My dogs began to bark.  Finally what seemed like a mad outburst all at once subsided, most of the voices stopped, and only an occasional sigh and note of mourning could be heard.  By this time activity near the fire seemed to have ceased.  The participants were merely resting after their arduous labors, however, and soon the piercing noises, the stamping and yelling began with renewed force.  The lamentations did not break out suddenly, but started softly, gradually growing louder, and then decreasing until not a single sound was heard.  I listened to the periodic cries and the rhythmic tramping of many feet that continued all night long.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Sometimes the wind blew the thick smoke directly toward our tents; each fresh gust carried an unpleasant odor of burned flesh.  I do not recall that we slept much that night, at least I know I did not, although I was in my own lodging, for my dogs barked and howled all the time.  Whenever they seemed unusually excited I would run out of the shelter, gun in hand, and look all around to find out what the trouble was.  But no one appeared.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The sun rose over the spot where the fire had reduced the body of the unhappy chief to ashes; not a person was in sight, however.  After breakfast I went over to the village, and as I approached, I heard occasional sounds of mourning, then found the brother of the chief sitting on a little mound that resembled a molehill.</P>
078.sgm:<P>So exhausted he did not hear me, he sobbed frequently.  His face was swollen from crying, yet at intervals he chanted the sad song of death.  Suddenly he opened his eyes, and, when he saw me standing nearby he looked at me wildly until I waved my hand to reassure him.  To indicate my intentions were peaceful, I removed my knife.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Is your brother here?"  I asked.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Si, Sen&tilde;or</HI>
078.sgm:<P>"Poor fellow, they were bad men to kill him."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Si, Sen&tilde;or, muy malo</HI>
078.sgm:<P>The tiny mound containing the ashes of the dead chieftain was only six or eight inches high and about two feet broad, but it was carefully made; a depression that resembled a basin had been dug on top of the mound, and in it beads made of pelican bones had been placed.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The brother of the departed chieftain rose and said, " <HI REND="italics">Tengo mucho hambre</HI>
078.sgm: "--I am very hungry, so I invited him to come over to my camp where I gave him bread and meat.  After eating he departed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:saying " <HI REND="italics">Adios</HI>
078.sgm:<P>The Indian ran for four or five miles at top speed, then found a member of his tribe, whom he warned to run for his life.  Together they continued along the bank of the river until they reached a small village that stood on the right bank of the stream directly across from the camp of the German gold miners.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Closely followed by their tormentors, the poor Indians hoped that their lives would be spared; but they were mistaken.  Suddenly the chief jumped into the river, as if he intended going to the mines and while Indians are good swimmers, he was too exhausted to remain under water.  As he rose to the surface, he was shot through the head by the murderers, and killed.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When he was dead, the cold-blooded scoundrels got off their horses, and as the lifeless body was washed ashore, scalped and hung the head near the bridge, as a token of victory; that of the other Indian was also suspended above the bridge.  The ceremony over, the murderers, posing as heroes, went on to Coloma.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After lunch I took a well-loaded gun and a hunting knife with me and mounted Johnny.  Reaching the small village of the young chieftain, I found it empty and deserted, then I also investigated the place where the Germans had recently washed gold.  From there I followed the Indian trail along the banks of the river, and as the route was clean and level, I let my horse travel at the usual gallop.  Even in rocky stretches I rode at a rapid pace, and had passed a bend of the river and was galloping across <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Suddenly I saw an Indian woman running up the road ahead shouting words I could scarcely understand.  " <HI REND="italics">Hededi awa maidu; Hededi awa maidu</HI>
078.sgm:<P>When the Indians saw me, they called to the frightened woman " <HI REND="italics">Ne winns maidu; ne jowel</HI>
078.sgm:<P>I reproached my friends and asked why they had not attempted to stop the white murderers; they told me the affair happened so suddenly that they were powerless to prevent it.  However, they did warn the men to leave the Indians alone, with the result that their own lives had been threatened.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Thomen and Diehl advised me to wait until Rippstein returned, before I went back to my own camp, because important <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The excuse offered for this dastardly expedition was that five white men had been murdered about fifty miles beyond Coloma on the north fork of the American River, and as Indians were believed to have been guilty, the white men had decided to kill them.  Anyone who had lived even for a short time among native tribes in California knew that every village had its chief, and was independent of neighboring villages, that the natives of different villages often spoke dissimilar dialects, and that feuds such as Sutter found existing between the Bushumnes and Sacramento Indians, who lived only a few miles apart, often broke out between neighboring settlements.  Everything I heard indicated, however, that the Indians had been living in harmony with the villagers on the north fork, and never molested them.<ANCHOR ID="n13-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1a">Sections of folios 155 and 156 have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Not long after this experience, I departed with two Frenchmen one fine morning to return to the valley.  I recall what an inspiring experience it was to start off on a good horse on a beautiful May day across green lush country.  Carrying six thousand dollars in gold, I was full of hope, confidence, and high spirits.  Whenever I recall that invigorating spring morning and remember how happy and full of joy I was, I feel a thrill of pleasure.  Those who have experienced similar feelings will understand how I felt.</P>
078.sgm:<P>We traveled along at a moderate gait.  By evening, having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The next morning I went to the fort to have my gold weighed in Sutter's druggist's scales, and found I had approximately six thousand dollars.  I had intended to buy articles suitable for barter with the Indians, but my plans were unexpectedly changed by an offer young Sutter made me, that definitely ended what I had in mind.</P>
078.sgm:<P>John Augustus Sutter, Jr., whom I called August, was determined to have his mother, brothers, and sister brought over from Switzerland,<ANCHOR ID="n13-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and he knew only two men he could trust to undertake this task.  One of them was Mr. Ritschard,<ANCHOR ID="n13-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: a man from Berne, who had crossed the Atlantic with him, and who had been a captain at Naples at one time, then an overseer of slaves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1b">Sutter's family also consisted of his wife Anna Dubeld; the daughter Anna Elise, or Eliza, born May 30, 1828; Emil Viktor, born Jan. 16, 1830; Wilhelm Alphons, or Alphonse, born May 15, 1832.  Another son, Carl Albert, born in 1833, died in 1839.  See <HI REND="italics">Das Burgdorfer Jahrbuch 1935</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-2a">John Ritschard, who lived in Sacramento from 1848 to 1852.  He is mentioned in <HI REND="italics">Das Burgdorfer Jahrbuch</HI>
078.sgm:<P>I was the alternate choice; I was the man the captain told his son was the only one he could trust.  Young Sutter knew his father wanted him to make the journey, but he believed that if he went there would be little if any money left to support the family on when he got back.  On the other hand, if he sent Mr. Ritschard, the farm would deteriorate rapidly, and what progress had been made would have been lost.  So he came to me, and assured me it would give him great pleasure if I would take charge of his mother, brothers, and sister, and that, if I would consider such an arrangement, he would compensate me generously for my services.  For a long time I had contemplated making a trip to Switzerland myself, but had planned to wait another year or two and accumulate more gold.  A visit to Switzerland suited me perfectly.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I was anxious to know what compensation I would receive.  Sutter's first offer was for only two thousand dollars, and I declined to make the trip for this small amount; the journey meant an absence of from six to eight months, and cholera was raging in the states.  Moreover, ominous rumors about Chagres fever, which was said to be far worse than cholera, were also heard.  Finally August Sutter made me an offer of three thousand dollars in addition to expenses, but I held out for four thousand dollars with the privilege of traveling first class, including accommodations at the best hotels.  Sutter finally agreed, saying, "Travel exactly as I would travel."  I also insisted on being paid in advance.  "Although you and not your father," I told him, "have entrusted me with this commission, and although I have had no reason to doubt your word, yet your father is the man who is actually responsible, and I have lost so much money through promises he failed to keep that I cannot do anything for him without being compensated in advance.  I am sorry to have to mention this, but I know you will understand my frankness and sympathize with my point of view."</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The young man did not appear to be offended, but he did insinuate that it would be difficult to raise enough gold to make the trip to Switzerland, in addition to advancing a salary of four thousand dollars.  Mr. Burnett,<ANCHOR ID="n13-3">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who looked after his business affairs, was to witness our contract when final arrangements had been made.  We figured approximately eight thousand dollars would be required for the trip.<ANCHOR ID="n13-4">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: This was not an excessive amount, but the total, including my salary, came to twelve thousand dollars.  In addition to Madame Sutter, her daughter, and two sons, I was to bring back a nephew, the son of a sister, called Schlafli.<ANCHOR ID="n13-5">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-3">Peter H. Burnett, a young Tennessee lawyer who reached the fort in 1848, and was Sutter's business manager until July, 1849.  He sold lots, adjusted claims with creditors, and attempted to untangle his complicated financial enterprises.  In later years he was a prominent judge and leader in civic life.  Lienhard calls him Bennett.  See his <HI REND="italics">Recollections and Opinions of an Old Pioneer</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-4">Young Sutter had so much difficulty raising funds for the trip that he was forced to borrow $6000 from Bill Daylor.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-5">Mrs. Schlafli was Mrs. Sutter's eldest sister.  Her son Gustave came to California and was employed at Hock Farm.  See Zollinger, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
078.sgm:., p. 311; and Gustave's five letters to his mother and sister from California in <HI REND="italics">Das Burgdorfer Jahrbuch</HI>
078.sgm:<P>When I realized that considerable time might elapse before he could raise the last thousands, I went to young Sutter, and said I would take one of his lots on the main street of Sacramento in place of one thousand dollars, but would do so with the understanding that if it was not worth that much when I returned, he would take it back and pay me the same amount.  If it was worth more, I was to keep it.  It would relieve him of the necessity of raising so much gold.  I asked him to make out a deed of sale, as well as a contract setting forth all the conditions and terms that made our agreement binding.  Sutter agreed; so I selected a corner lot on Front and O streets, and the necessary papers were made out, and turned over to me.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After making these arrangements with young Sutter, I camped for several days with two French comrades near the fort.  The air was very invigorating, and at night the clear, deep-blue sky with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Mortals, human beings like myself, enjoy only a brief span of life.  Who can deny creation, even though it is beyond human conception?  The stupidity, conceit, and vanity of human beings is unfathomable.  Man has no conception of the universe as a whole; he is merely a small and unimportant bit of dust.  But because he is so blind, he thinks he sees clearly.  Knowing nothing or scarcely more than nothing, makes him think he knows everything.  But I must confine myself to my own adventures.  While I was there Diehl came over to see me.  He stopped about fifty or sixty yards away from my camp and began to dig in the ground until he pulled out a bottle containing a large amount of gold.  We all laughed heartily.  Diehl joined, happy at having recovered the gold he had buried.  Thomen and Rippstein came in from the mines soon after, and pitched their tents nearby for a brief visit.  We had a jolly time together.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As I had already accepted Sutter's proposal to bring his mother, brothers, and sister over from Switzerland, I gave them some things that had been especially useful to me such as shears, rifles, and trunks which I did not expect to need again, at least not for a long time, and which I knew they could use to good advantage.  Then I moved over to the fort and waited for Sutter to raise enough gold for our traveling expenses.  Meanwhile, I sold the fine white horse I had bought from Durr for three hundred dollars--the original price I had paid for it--and disposed of the mare I had purchased from Sutter and her filly to young Sutter for two hundred dollars.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As the place where my friends and I had camped had never been used by anyone else, I decided to bury my gold in the ground <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>After tramping through forest and underbrush until I considered I was safe, I made three deep holes in three different places in the bushes at the edge of the wheatfields with a sharp knife in Indian fashion, taking every possible precaution to keep the dirt in a neat pile.  The bottles containing the gold were placed in these holes, and covered with dirt.  The spot where they had been hidden was covered with old leaves in such a way that it resembled the surrounding leaf-covered ground.  While I was burying them, I used the utmost caution and looked around from time to time to assure myself that no uninvited spectator saw what I was doing.  Before I left I scratched a mark on the branch of a low tree, measured the distance from there to the gold, made a note of it, and went into the adjoining bush, apparently to hunt but actually to assure myself there were no spies around.  Convinced that my gold was safe, I went back to the camp.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Often daily tasks took me in the vicinity of this hiding place, and when I wanted to inspect it I never approached from the wheatfields, but always from the bushes.  To my dismay, the second time I visited it, I found that the earth around one of my bottles had been moved, and half the gold was visible.  The soil, I saw finally, had been scratched up by some animal, and my fears vanished.  I reburied the bottle carefully, scattering a little gunpower, an odor animals seem to dislike, over it.<ANCHOR ID="n13-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-2b">Omission in folio 157 about the difficulties of hiding gold.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>PIONEER ACQUAINTANCES</P>
078.sgm:<P>At the fort I became acquainted with an American about thirty years old called Slater,<ANCHOR ID="n14-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1a">Apparently Richard Slater, who came west with the Mormon Battalion in 1847.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>He even suggested that I ask Sutter to send a substitute, but when I mentioned it to the captain he refused.  Slater told me he had saved about five thousand dollars, and said that if I would put the some amount in his business, and we were economical managers, I might make much more than the four thousand dollars Sutter was paying me.</P>
078.sgm:<P>My friends envied me the wonderful trip that was in store for me and the large salary I was to receive, but I would have been just as happy if Sutter had selected someone else.  A tailor, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:man called Walter or Wether,<ANCHOR ID="n14-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: a seasoned old adventurer from Swabia, had approached Sutter with an offer to bring the family over for three thousand dollars and finally for two thousand dollars; but the captain was not interested.<ANCHOR ID="n14-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-2a">Possibly Herman Wohler from Mecklenburg, who owned a vineyard at Sonoma several years later.  Cordua in his <HI REND="italics">Memoirs</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1b">A section of folio 158, containing Lienhard's detailed comments on this episode, has been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The breach between Captain Sutter and his son was growing wider all the time.  Disappointed speculators were making more and more trouble between them, and I did not think it was wise to leave solely as the envoy of young Sutter, unless I was so authorized by the father and had his approval to bring over the family.  I mentioned this to young Sutter one day, saying I must have Captain Sutter's consent, too, before leaving, and added that if he did not want me to undertake the jouney, I would remain here.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As I had anticipated, the young man would not listen to me at first.  "I am giving you what gold you need," he said, "you do not have to go to my father for it."  But my mind was made up, and I asked him to call his father.  He did so reluctantly.  This was the first time he had entered his father's room for a long time, I believe.  Meanwhile, I waited outside for the answer, secretly hoping that Sutter senior would veto my journey to Switzerland.  The son reappeared, followed by the father.  The captain came over to me and said, "Mr. Lienhard, my son tells me he wishes to engage you to accompany my family from Switzerland, and that you have agreed to do so only if it meets with my approval.  Is that so?"  I said that it was, and that unless the plan was satisfactory to him I would not undertake the journey.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter declared in the presence of his son that he was entirely satisfied with his choice, that he felt confident I was the right man, and that everything was satisfactory.  I was glad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The band of horse thieves that had been operating for some time around the fort had disbanded by now, but some boys, who found horse thieving profitable, as well as the honorable alcalde and the fat rascal with the pale eyes and white hair, were still there.  One morning some Bushumnes Indians came to young Sutter and complained that friends of the alcalde, including his brother-in-law, had stolen one of their animals.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In his father's absence young Sutter's task was to protect the natives.  He decided to speak to one of the suspects and several men, including the alcalde and his pompous brother-in-law on whom he counted for support, were brought before him.  One young thief answered Sutter in a sullen manner, and said that the Indians had stolen one of his horses.  Sutter was not inclined to believe him, for he felt confident that the horse belonged to the Indians.  I had just purchased a silk vest in the store outside of the fort and was about to enter the gate, when I heard young Sutter talking.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I felt I knew what the fellow wanted, and I advised Sutter not to argue with him, for if he succeeded in gaining the upper hand, his friends would join him in the quarrel.  I spoke to him in German, but he did not seem to understand what I meant, and was soon engaged in a fight with one of the horse thieves.  I knew he would be beaten, so I tried to pull them away.  However, the honorable justice of the peace seized a bent stick as thick as my arm, and held it over my head cursing and threatening to beat my brains out with it, if I did not stop interfering.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Preferring to keep my brains intact, I left the two fighters to their fate.  Both of them fell to the ground, but the American knew his business better than his opponent, and was gaining the upper hand.  I advised Sutter to stop.  He consented, but only after his face was badly scratched.  If he had listened to me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>He felt his defeat keenly, and disappeared into his father's room where he would not be disturbed.  I tried to console him, and gave him some good advice for future needs, yet when old Sutter reached the fort several days later, he was incensed at the way his son had been treated, and decided to reprimand the entire crowd.</P>
078.sgm:<P>This time no murders were committed while I was at the fort, but the man in Sacramento City who had tried to kill Mr. McDowell once before, fired a shot from which he died an hour later.  McDowell, who had settled on the right bank of the river directly across from the city, had built himself a log cabin there, but had not fenced his property adequately, nor had he cultivated the soil.  When travel to Sacramento City began to increase, a ferry or small flatboat capable of carrying one or two big wagons each trip was needed, and a rope was stretched from shore to shore which pulled the flatboat across by means of a cable.  But McDowell refused to give his consent to the use of his property for this purpose; he had expected to receive some of the proceeds from the ferry, and when final plans were made, he considered that he had not been treated fairly.</P>
078.sgm:<P>A hot-tempered, reckless, Kentucky rowdy, he was in the habit of using rough language, and would attempt to stab men in the stomach with his bowie knife upon the slightest provocation.  One day two young drivers, each with a wagonload of goods, drove over to the ferry against his orders, and, oblivious to his threats, loaded their vehicles onto the boat.  In a fit of temper McDowell stabbed the younger driver, who was about eighteen years old, two or three times with his knife.  The other man, who was about twenty-one, called to him, and warned him to leave the younger man alone; McDowell replied by stabbing him, too, but the older boy knocked him down and struck him several times.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>A tall young man called Deawolf<ANCHOR ID="n14-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-3a">There is no clue to his identity.  He is not listed in the directories of that period.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I was told that McDowell's family did not seem to be disturbed by the affair.  Some said that his wife was relieved when it happened, because she had been whipped and mistreated by him so often.  She married again in a short time.<ANCHOR ID="n14-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-2b">Brief omission in folio 158.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>One day Mr. Burnett, young Sutter's business manager, introduced me to his eldest son; he proved to be a quiet, highly respectable young man and, unlike his contemporaries, did not drink or gamble, but preferred to read and study.  As I found him extremely congenial, we spent considerable time together, and finally became so friendly that we even discussed religion, a point on which we did not agree.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Originally Protestants, my young friend and his father were now Catholics, having been converted by the Jesuits in Oregon a short time before they reached California.  They believed they had joined what was the only true faith.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>My friendship with the paternal Huggenberger continued to be as strong as ever.  I was extremely sorry for the old man, who was determined to go to the mines and amass several thousand dollars' worth of gold, for I felt that his frail constitution was not equal to the hardships and privations of a miner's life, but nothing I could say made any impression on him.  He considered it disgraceful not to be earning anything when everyone else was making a fortune, and even imagined his acquaintances were saying: "Look at that man!  He's still young and strong, yet when all able-bodied men are heading for the mines, he stays away.  He must be too lazy to take advantage of these opportunities."</P>
078.sgm:<P>My own feelings were quite different.  I knew Huggenberger was old and not very well, and already owned nine or ten thousand dollars' worth of stock in the east.  In addition to that amount, he had also saved several thousand dollars without working in the mines.  He had no wife, no children, and no one but himself to look after; he did not need to save money for unappreciative heirs.  Anyone knowing these facts would consider him either a miser or a fool to endure the hardships and dangers of life at the mines, when he already owned between fourteen and sixteen thousand dollars.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Among Huggenberger's closest friends was a man from Baden called Cadel,<ANCHOR ID="n14-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-4a">Peter Cadel, Hadel, or Kadel, who came west in 1846.  He lived at New Helvetia, San Rafael, and Sonoma, and finally at Sutterville where he built the second house.  He died at Oklahoma in 1875.  Lienhard calls him Rodel.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>One day we were discussing Cadel's honesty, and he told me the following story.  "I had intended," he said, "to bury my gold <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>"He seemed frightened when I told him about it.  `No, no, Mr. Huggenberger,' he said, `I can't go.  If you did not find your gold when you came back, you might think I had taken it.  I am going to Sacramento today, and as soon as I am out of sight, take your gold, and bury it yourself.  Do not let anyone see what you are doing and make a sign where it is buried so that you will always know where to find it.'"  Huggenberger said he followed his advice, went off by himself to bury his gold, and marked it carefully, so he could find the place when he returned.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Huggenberger's old friend and comrade, Huber, who, at one time considered going into partnership with Rippstein, also spent some time at the mines.  By 1849 Huber was worth forty thousand dollars.  In 1852, while I was in Kilchberg, Canton of Zurich, I was told that a certain man called Huber had received word from the magistrate in Knonau, that his brother had died in California, and left him about one hundred and sixty thousand Zurich gulden, a large fortune for a man of his type.  The friend who told me this story about the lucky heir remarked that there were a few honest people left in America.  If the dollar was worth two and one-half gulden, in 1849 Huber's capital must have been one hundred thousand gulden, and in the three years from 1849 to 1852 must have increased considerably.</P>
078.sgm:<P>While I am discussing old friends, I should like to tell what happened to good-hearted, old Huggenberger.  When I parted from him, I warned him about mining; but he seemed determined to try it, although I was afraid he would not be alive when I returned from Switzerland with Sutter's family.  One of the first questions I asked when I reached California in January, 1850, was about my friend, Huggenberger.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I was told that he went to the mines, located a claim on one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:the steep hillsides, became ill, and died, and instead of being buried, had been covered with rocks and stones.  Although he had brought on his own death by greed for more gold, I felt genuinely sorry for the brave old man.<ANCHOR ID="n14-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-3b">Omission, folio 159.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The last few days before my departure I often saw Captain Sutter at the fort.  One day he asked me to accompany him to Hock Farm, where his overseer, Mr. Ritschard, wanted to see me and talk with me before I left.  Mr. Ritschard asked me to take one thousand dollars to his relatives, a sister's son, Fritz Neuenschwander<ANCHOR ID="n14-5a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: of Canton of Berne, and another sister and her husband, Mr. and Mrs. Kamer<ANCHOR ID="n14-6">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-5a">Schlafli mentions him.  See <HI REND="italics">Das Burgdorfer Jahrbuch</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-6">Kenner, Kanner, and Kammer in the MS.  Later a member of the firm of Conrad and Kamer, a supply house in San Francisco.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Whenever Sutter started out even on short trips, he was accompanied by Indian riders armed with long spears.  Although this protection seemed adequate, yet I soon learned that one aggressive white man, well-mounted, and armed with a double-barreled revolver and bowie knife, could handle half a dozen native policemen.  This escort was for effect rather than actual protection, for in those days Californians were not easily intimidated, and nothing could have restrained them from playing tricks on Sutter if they chose.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The first day we traveled as far as the American Fork, camping near Sinclair's property.  Captain Sutter rode a large, yellow-gray mule that had a black streak across its back.  This animal was stocky, dependable, and accustomed to trails, and I cannot recall ever having seen Sutter ride anything else.  I was on my three-hundred-dollar white horse, one of the largest and strongest breeds in California; the Indian servants rode various kinds of mounts.  Sutter provided food for everyone.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The day following we broke camp early.  After traveling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>When we reached Hock Farm, Ritschard came out to welcome us, and tried to make us as comfortable as possible; we did not remain long, but returned to the fort a day or two later.  All the rooms had been rented, so I had to sleep in Sutter's quarters.  This was unfortunate, because I could not get any rest at night.  Men who had just reached the fort called to see Sutter at all hours, and among them were many officers and persons of high rank, for everyone wanted to meet the respected and honored captain, and shower him with compliments.  In those days, they usually had their drinks at the bar rather than in Sutter's private quarters.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Every evening at nine o'clock I rolled up in my blankets, which were spread on the floor.  Much to my relief Sutter did not insist on my sharing his bed; Durr's bearskin made a soft mattress, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter introduced me to two of his comrades, one of whom I believe was an ex-governor, and the other a judge, as the young gentleman he had asked to go to Switzerland to get his family.  An unmistakable odor of alcohol and other signs indicated that the honorable gentlemen had indulged in several drinks that evening.  I greeted them in a friendly manner, however.</P>
078.sgm:<P>They seemed to be having a hilarious time together.  Only one thing disturbed Sutter: why he had been made a leading candidate for the governorship of California.<ANCHOR ID="n14-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-7">Sutter ran for governor in the fall of 1849, but lost to his friend and attorney, Peter Burnett.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Suddenly he began to talk about his son, John August Sutter, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I told him I believed that these two men who wanted to make him governor against his wishes had put false ideas into his head, which he was not aware of.  My words made him angry.  He talked about John, Jr., called him vile names, and said he would have been far happier if he had never been born.  He added that his son had been overheard using disgraceful language when he spoke about his father.  My reply was that his son had been forced to listen to equally strange remarks which his own father was reported to have made.  "What do you think he must have thought," I asked, "when he was told that you were considering sending him back to Switzerland in chains?"  Sutter assured me he had never made a remark like that; I told him I did not believe he had, but I did know that idle gossip like this was often repeated, and that many remarks made about him and his son were merely for the purpose of estranging them, and were the work of disappointed speculators.  I advised him not to believe their stories.</P>
078.sgm:<P>He retorted by making some very candid remarks about his son and said, "I would like to kill him."  Thereupon he rushed into his office, opened a large pistol box, removed one of the two double-barreled pistols it contained, and called out, "I am going to shoot myself."</P>
078.sgm:<P>The thought flashed through my mind that if he did shoot himself, I would be held responsible, so as soon as Sutter took the pistol in his hands I grabbed it, replaced it in its box, threw him on his bed, and started to undress him.  His behavior, I told him, was ridiculous and unworthy of a gentleman.  Then I went back and examined the pistols, intending to remove the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Finally the letters I was to take with me were ready and my new American trunk was packed.  Several books, including a History of Nature, my heavy double-barreled gun which I had acquired from a Frenchman called Black, and several other articles, were left with young Sutter.  I learned that a small schooner commanded by a United States navy officer that carried a crew of three or four sailors was about to sail for San Francisco, and that I was expected to leave on her.  I said goodbye to Sutter and the men at the fort.  Young Sutter accompanied me to the Sacramento embarcadero.  My loyal friend, Tiger, also came to the schooner with me.</P>
078.sgm:<P>There were tears in my eyes when I tied him to a rope, and told Sutter to take him back to the fort.  Tiger whined, and looked at me appealingly.  I expected to see him again, but never did.  Young Sutter promised to take him to Hock Farm and see that he was well cared for; he failed to keep his promise, and Tiger was gone by the time I got back.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I started off with approximately seventeen thousand dollars' worth of gold.  Some nine thousand of it belonged to me; one thousand was Ritschard's; the balance was for traveling expenses.  I had offered young Sutter a receipt for the latter, but he did not want it.  "Why a receipt?" he said, "If you are honest everything will be all right, if you are not, a receipt is of no value."  This remark showed his confidence in me, although it was not business-like.  I had no thought of making a profit for myself, however.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Soon after I went aboard the schooner departed, and with only the mainsails hoisted headed down the river, while I watched Sacramento fade away in the distance.  Passengers included the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:French barber who had come down with me from the mountains, his petite French wife, and Englishman, and an American officer who seemed to know something about navigation.  The trip down stream was slow and uninteresting, and after passing the Big Slough, the crew was ordered to reef the mainsail, owing to a sudden change in the wind.  This order, given by the commanding officer, did not please our nautical-minded passenger, with whom I was inclined to agree.  He complained about it; his remarks infuriated the captain of our schooner to such an extent that he threatened to have him put ashore.  That frightened the man so much that he begged for mercy and promised to keep quiet.  Apparently the thought of being left unarmed in the forest where grizzlies, wolves, and other animals roamed did not appeal to him.<ANCHOR ID="n14-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-4a n14-4b">Brief omission, folio 160, giving uninteresting account of the river journey.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>We reached San Francisco early the following morning.  I paid the officer for my passage, and secured a room in the largest hotel in the city.  It was a commercial house where I knew my money would be safe, and where I did not have to sleep in an attic.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The steamer <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Since my only weapon was a large California knife that had cost me eight dollars at Sutter's Fort, I now bought a small Allen's revolver; it was easy to handle, but was not very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:effective.  Trousers, a rubber raincoat, a pair of shoes, a pocket knife, and some green spectacles were added to my wardrobe at this time.  Finally the twentieth of June arrived.  My baggage was sent to the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Although the ship carried thirty passengers, most of them Panama bound, I was the only one who was not an American; I knew only one or two persons aboard, but the majority seemed to be pleasant people.  Of the thirty, only two were white women.  Both said they were married; one was accompanied by her husband and a good-looking lively girl about six years old, but the other traveled under the protection of a tall man.  The latter had three children, a pretty girl aged eight, and two younger boys.  They were from the Sandwich Islands, as was a young watchmaker, who was also on board.  Mrs. Jessie Fre&acute;mont,<ANCHOR ID="n14-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-8">See Catherine Coffin Phillips, <HI REND="italics">Jessie Benton Fre&acute;mont</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Anchor having been weighed about four o'clock, the eleven-thousand-ton steamer headed toward the Golden Gate.  After passing between Telegraph Hill and the small rocky island of Alcatraz, the ship stopped at Sausalito, took on fresh beef and water, then sailed out toward the deep waters of the vast Pacific.  The sea was comparatively quiet, and only a few passengers succumbed to <HI REND="italics">mal de mer</HI>
078.sgm:.  Early the next morning, the wife and child of the great general, Fre&acute;mont, were taken ashore at Monterey.  Then the steamer headed toward the entrance of the bay and, after passing several cliffs, which I recognized from my previous visit, rounded Point Lobos and sailed out into the Pacific.<ANCHOR ID="n14-5b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-5b">Folios 160 to 196, describing Lienhard's trip to Europe, have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO IN 1850</P>
078.sgm:<P>The steamer, on which I returned with the Sutter family from Europe, reached the entrance to the vast bay of San Francisco, known as the Golden Gate, on January 21, 1850, at dawn.<ANCHOR ID="n15-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1a">On Monday, January 21, U.S. mail steamer <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm:, Captain Bailey, and 360 passengers, arrived, according to the <HI REND="italics">Weekly Pacific News</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Having steered for the middle of the bay between Yerba Buena Island and the city, the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm: dropped anchor.  Innumerable boats ready to charge passengers a high price for being taken ashore soon surrounded her.  I was so eager to reach the city on one of them to secure rooms for my party at what was considered in those days the leading hotel in the city, that I lowered myself by a rope into the first one that reached the ship's side, and almost fell on the heads of several passengers who quickly moved aside to give me room.  Without further delay, the boat in which I landed pulled away; in a short time it touched at a long wooden pier known as the wharf, that extended out over the water.  After landing us, the boatmen, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>On shore an unusual amount of bustle and activity was evident.  Building was going on everywhere; many new houses and shacks were being erected; and the city, that had been devastated by fire a short time ago, was being rebuilt again.<ANCHOR ID="n15-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: At that time the Graham House,<ANCHOR ID="n15-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-2a">The great fire of December, 1849.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-3a">The Graham House was a four-story wooden structure that had been brought over in sections from Baltimore and erected on the northeast corner of Kearny and Pacific streets.  Later it was destroyed by fire.  It was popular with foreigners.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Upon reaching my destination, I was fortunate enough to reserve three rooms, one for Madame Sutter and her daughter, one for Mr. and Mrs. Kamer, who had crossed with us, and a third for the two boys and myself.  All three rooms were furnished with the utmost simplicity, and were separated by partitions made of cotton blankets; the furnishings were plain, although the rate for the rooms was high.  High prices were characteristic of California, however.</P>
078.sgm:<P>While I was ashore, warm rain fell in torrents, but it did not prevent me from looking after my affairs.  The ladies, I knew, would never be able to reach the hotel on foot, so I started out to find a covered vehicle to transport them and their luggage to the hotel.  After finding one, I returned to the ship, only to discover that most of the passengers had already gone ashore, including a young man I had lent twenty dollars to, who had promised to repay me before he got off.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Our luggage was ready to be moved, and after I had given the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>"I'm Lang," he replied.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Are you Mr. Lang?  It can't be possible."</P>
078.sgm:<P>It was Mr. Lang, the ungrateful son of the rich Bostonian whom I once knew at Sutter's Fort.  Pale and haggard, he had changed so much that he was now a mere shadow of his former self.  Apparently he noticed the surprised look on my face, for his wan, colorless cheeks flushed; before I had an opportunity to ask him any more questions, he went away, and I never saw him again.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After considerable difficulty, the small covered wagon drawn by mules I had procured was filled with women and luggage, and we reached the hotel.  Everything had gone smoothly; the vehicle had not upset; and we were grateful to find ourselves safely gathered under one roof.  I inquired whether Captain Sutter, or his son August, were in the city, and was told that the captain had been there, but had returned to Sacramento a few days before.  Perhaps I should have taken the Sutter family directly to him, but I was afraid the old gentleman's vanity might be wounded if I did not arrange to have him welcome his family in San Francisco.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Within the next few days the steamer <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
078.sgm: was leaving for Sacramento, so I decided to book passage.  When I went aboard, I discovered to my surprise and delight that some friends of mine, Mr. and Mrs. Foster, were also on their way to Sacramento.  The latter, who was Mrs. Nye's sister, was now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>They asked me if I had seen anything of Mr. and Mrs. Nye while I was away.  All I could tell them was that I had met the latter in Cruces shortly after our arrival; I was strolling down the street looking for a house where we could procure lodgings, when I happened to see an American, with whom I had traveled in the fall of 1846 to the first settlement on Bear Creek, and several other men, talking to an attractive American woman, who was telling them that she had heard that Sutter's family had recently reached Cruces.  She added that the young man who went abroad to get the family was one of her best friends.  While she was speaking, I was standing only a few steps away and several moments later, when her eyes met mine, she exclaimed, "Why there he is now."  Mrs. Nye told me her husband had recently left to find a boat for the trip down the Chagres.  She was also able to give me news about California and some of my acquaintances;  I was busy, however, and could chat with her only a short time.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The trip to Sacramento proved monotonous, and the <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
078.sgm:, which was not built for the comfort of her passengers, was overcrowded.  The night was cool, but a quiet night's rest was impossible; the banks of the Sacramento were heavily inundated, and as not only the masses of tules, but even sections of the forest situated on high ground, were almost completely under water, our boat made as much noise as a large Mississippi River steamer, although she failed to make much progress.  According to late reports, Sacramento was inundated to such an extent that vehicles could not move down the streets, and residents had to use boats and canoes to carry on business.<ANCHOR ID="n15-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-4a">From November, 1849, to March, 1850, over 36 inches of rain fell in Sacramento.  The waters rose so high that the second story of the City Hotel was entered by boats.  Hundreds of animals were drowned, and property losses were heavy.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>At first I could not decide what to do after I delivered the Sutter family, but finally I made up my mind to try to buy a piece of land east of the fort from Captain Sutter, provided he did not ask too much, for I did not believe it was too late to speculate in city property.  When we docked at Sacramento the weather was still unsettled and the sky cloudy.  Although certain sections of the streets were already free from water, in other places long plank walks built across the streets prevented pedestrians from being obliged to wade knee-deep in mud, which was often so thick that boots were frequently lost in the mire.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Upon inquiring where Captain Sutter was staying, I was directed to the City Hotel,<ANCHOR ID="n15-5">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-5">"The City Hotel was a notability in its day.  The frame of it is that which was to have been erected for a flouring mill on the American River near what is now Brighton--which was brought here after that project was abandoned and put up on what was once a cornfield.  It was furnished in 1849 and is still to be found flourishing on Front Street between I and J."  See J. Horace Culver <HI REND="italics">The Sacramento City Directory</HI>
078.sgm:<P>At the City Hotel I found Sutter and six other men from Switzerland gathered around a large table completing plans for purchasing, for the comparatively low price of seven thousand dollars, what were known as the big wheatfields northeast of the fort between the American Fork and the South Slough.  Among the buyers were two of my former traveling companions, Rippstein and Thomen; a butcher from Berne whom I had met in 1845 in Galena; and Rutte, Tissot and Grunniger of the firm of Rutte, Tissot &amp; Co.<ANCHOR ID="n15-6">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-6">Rutte was from Berne; Tissot, from Geneva.  They were Sutter's brokers, and had offices on the north side of Fourth street in 1850.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Although I asked them to take me in as the seventh partner, I failed to receive an encouraging reply, and within a short time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>That evening Sutter and I slept in what was known as the Zinc Warehouse<ANCHOR ID="n15-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-7">Apparently the zinc warehouse erected in 1849 near the outlet of Sutter's lake.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The following morning we went aboard the <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
078.sgm: that was returning to San Francisco.  Young August Sutter was at Hock Farm; I had not seen him since my return and had neglected to write, letters not being one of my hobbies.  The <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
078.sgm: made faster time going down than up the river, and upon reaching San Francisco that afternoon, Sutter and I went directly to the Graham House and to the room occupied by his wife and daughter.  As the door opened, an affectionate greeting took place between the entire family, who were reunited for the first time in seventeen years.  A clever speculator was also in the room.  Knowing the family might like to be alone after their long separation, I made some remarks to this effect, but the man seemed to feel he had special privileges, and I had to repeat my remarks several times before <HI REND="italics">the very smart gentleman</HI>
078.sgm:<P>By remaining a few days in San Francisco, I had an excellent opportunity to inspect the city and locate some of my old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:comrades.  One of them was the Hanovarian whom, with the aid of my Indians, I once frightened in the forest near Sacramento after he had deserted the army for the second time.  I made a life-long friend of him when I told him I had not come to capture him, but to give him and his friend Neif<ANCHOR ID="n15-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-8">Apparently Joseph Neil, or Neif, a German sailor who came to San Francisco in 1839.  He was also known as Henry Richer.  Lienhard calls him Niez.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>On one of my little excursions I happened to meet the young wagon-maker to whom I had lent twenty dollars in Panama, and who had promised to return it to me when we reached San Franciso.  I told him he could find me at the Graham House; but he never called, so I knew I had been deceived as to his honesty, and that I would never receive what I had advanced.  All hope of ever seeing my twenty dollars again was abandoned.  Among those I visited was the Mr. Hoen, from whom I had purchased a share in a city lot measuring thirty by sixty feet on the corner of Pacific and Dupont streets for three thousand dollars.  During the seven months I was away, the property had risen considerably in value.  I had known about it long before I got back to California, and so did not expect to have Mr. Hoen say that he would like to keep the lot, and would give me a good rate of interest for the use of my money during the time he had had it.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I asked him how much he intended to offer me.  At first he mentioned twenty per cent, then thirty per cent, apparently with the idea that I had not discovered how much lots had risen in price during my absence.  But when I asked Mr. Hoen what amount over and above one hundred per cent he would pay me, if I sold him my share of the lot, Mr. Hoen realized that I was not so green <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Not to have taken title at the time I purchased the lot was unwise.  Had I died in the meanwhile, I should have lost the three thousand dollars, for the sale was not on record, there was no proof that part of the lot belonged to me, and my heirs would never have received a single cent for my share.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Mr. Hoen, with whom I was on friendly terms, told me a few incidents connected with the gubernatorial campaign, and said that while Sutter was candidate, he spent large sums of money to win votes.  "How can a man in his senses," he added, "think that responsible men would ever vote for a man like Sutter who is drunk more than half the time?  Once I saw two sailors, who were also drunk, place Sutter between them when he was in such a condition that he could scarcely stand on his own feet."</P>
078.sgm:<P>After I returned from Europe, I noticed that Sutter had a large scar on his nose; when I asked him how he had received it he told me, with considerable embarrassment, that one night he had run against the sharp edge of a door, which he had been unable to see in the dark.  I had my own ideas, which I did not express; but I am sure he understood the meaning of my quizzical smile.  My own opinion was that the mark might have been a momento of his gubernatorial campaign, when he was not so fortunate as to be supported by two English "Jack Tars."</P>
078.sgm:<P>One day when Captain Sutter, Alphonse, and I were walking among the ruins of houses burned in the recent fire, Alphonse expressed a wish to be a superior officer some day.  The captain replied that this wish would soon be fulfilled.  "I will be made supreme general of the State of California," he said, "and then you will have an opportunity to become an officer."  The son finally became a captain, I believe, but whether it was through his own efforts or not, I do not know.  When I was in Madison, Wisconsin, a few years later, I read one day in one of the newspapers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:of New York State that the filibuster, General Walker, with his two officers, one of whom was Alphonse Sutter, had been sent as delegates from Nicaragua to San Jose and Costa Rica to make an agreement with the government of that state.<ANCHOR ID="n15-9">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-9">Alphonse, Sutter's favorite son, later accompanied William Walker, the filibuster, on his campaign into Nicaragua.  He died in 1863 at Nevada City.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I still had about two hundred and fifty dollars left out of the money I had reserved for the trip when I reached San Francisco; I carried it with me in a little leather pouch tied around my waist.  On the voyage I had led the Sutter family to believe that I had spent almost everything I had, for I anticipated that if unnecessary purchases were made during the trip our funds might dwindle to such an extent that when any emergency arose we might find ourselves in an awkward predicament.</P>
078.sgm:<P>After we had reached our rooms at the hotel, these precautions seemed unnecessary, and all the family seemed surprised when I took out my leather bag, stained with perspiration, brought it into their room, and counted out the gold pieces on the table.  Everyone asked how I happened to have so much gold.  I explained that it was a kind of reserve fund I had set aside for incidentals; that we had been fortunate enough not to have drawn on it; and that I was now returning it to them for their own use.  Madame Sutter, who was visibly pleased with my foresight, said that even if she had known there was so much money available she would not have made any unnecessary requests for expenditures.  With the prices charged by the hotels in San Francisco at that time the balance of the money would have lasted us only a short time, however.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Large vessels usually docked at Clark's Point on the southwest corner of Telegraph Hill, and although a small boat called the <HI REND="italics">Captain Sutter</HI>
078.sgm: and another called the <HI REND="italics">Sacramento</HI>
078.sgm: were available, yet we preferred to take passage on the more luxurious and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:commodious steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
078.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n15-10">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: The <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-10">The <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
078.sgm: of 500 tons burden was put on the Sacramento run in November 1849 and advertised as "the most beautiful, most commodious boat on the Sacramento."  Her rates were $25 up the river, $30 down; meals, two dollars each, staterooms, $10; freight $40 to $50 a ton.  <HI REND="italics">Hutching's California Magazine</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Several young men, Messrs. Conrad,<ANCHOR ID="n15-11">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: Schatt,<ANCHOR ID="n15-12">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: Neuenschwander and Schlafli,<ANCHOR ID="n15-13">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: the nephew of Madame Sutter, who had arrived during our visit to San Francisco, were also busy moving their luggage aboard the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
078.sgm:.  Assisted by Mr. Conrad, I took charge of Mr. Kamer's bags as I had done many times before; as a matter of fact, I often rendered many little services to these good people whom I admired deeply.  By offering a ridiculously high price, I also arranged to have a wagon ready to take Mr. and Mrs. Sutter and their daughter to the embarcadero.  Whenever I paid for anything, I realized we were in California.  Mr. and Mrs. Kamer tried to make the best of conditions; however they were dismayed at the cost of everything in California.  The only route from the hotel to the landing place led through a street that was almost impassable even for agile pedestrians in the rainy season.  Many of them slipped and fell in the soft mud, especially people as awkward as Mr. Kamer, for although he had lost a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-11">Conrad reached San Francisco with Lienhard.  Six months later Kamer and Conrad were operating a supply house for miners.  See <HI REND="italics">Das Burgdorfer Jabrbuch</HI>
078.sgm: for 1935, p. 25.  This appears to have been dissolved for the Kamers soon built a hotel in the new town of Marysville, and another in Eliza, while Conrad became a gardener.  <HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-12">Lienhard calls him Baltasser Schatt.  He settled on a ranch near Marysville.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-13">A letter of Gustave Schlafli describes this journey.  See <HI REND="italics">Das Burgdorfer Jabrbuch</HI>
078.sgm:<P>While Mr. Conrad and I were moving our own luggage from the dock to the ship, we saw Mr. and Mrs. Kamer coming down the slippery hill, arm in arm.  They were walking slowly; both of them were obviously in danger of slipping at any moment, however.  One look told me that the woman was the steadier of the two, and I could not keep from smiling when I saw the embarrassed expression on the face of Mr. Kamer, who, instead of supporting his better half, was leaning on her for support.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Calling to Mrs. Kamer I warned her to be careful not to let Mr. Kamer stumble, for at that moment it looked as if he were about to fall.  After much effort and balancing, he finally reached the deck where we were standing, and we all heaved a sigh of relief.  After the pair had gone aboard the steamer, and we had finished moving our own luggage, Mr. Kamer reappeared and asked us if we would move several of his heavy trunks on board.  Knowing what he had in mind I called out, "Mr. Kamer, we're in a city where service is extremely costly.  Out here the motto is `Help yourself.'  So come on over and work."</P>
078.sgm:<P>I attempted to look serious but Conrad, who knew I was joking, turned his face away to hide his laughter.  Mr. Kamer, obviously annoyed because I had had the impudence to make him labor, came down and went to work.  He mumbled to himself; he was considerably disturbed over the abrupt way I had treated him.  Observing his consternation, I laughed again and again; Conrad joined; and even Mr. Kamer gave a wan smile.  However, the cold reception he had received from the Sutters to whom he was distantly related, the depleted condition of his pocketbook, and the mounds of dirt on the streets had an unfavorable effect on his disposition.<ANCHOR ID="n15-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1b">Brief omission in folio 198.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
078.sgm: was about to pull away from the docks when several more passengers came aboard.  Among them was a handsome <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:old man in a uniform who proved to be General Smith,<ANCHOR ID="n15-14">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-14">Andrew J. Smith who came west in 1847 as captain with the Mormon Battalion.  He went east with Sherman in 1850 and later became a general.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>"See gentlemen," he said, "how my name is honored.  I sent this man to Switzerland to bring my family over to this country.  In New York he could not procure any accommodations on Pacific Coast steamers, but when he reached the Isthmus, the captain on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm:<P>The captain was referring to the time I went to the ticket office of the steamship company in New York and tried to book first-class passage for the seven members of our party on one of the Pacific steamers, but was told I could not secure cabins on the steamer leaving on January first from Panama, and was advised to wait for the next boat.  I informed the clerk I was bringing Captain Sutter's family to California, that he had been separated from them for seventeen years, and that he was anxious to see them as soon as possible.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When he asked me if the members of my party were the wife and children of the Sutter who discovered gold, and I had assured him they were, I was immediately given tickets for cabins that were still vacant, with apologies for not having better accommodations to offer.  Why, then, did Sutter fail to tell the story as it actually occurred?  Did he think he could make the man believe they would honor him to the extent he said?</P>
078.sgm:<P>As I recall it the trip aboard the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
078.sgm: was extremely enjoyable; the weather was perfect; the ship sped rapidly through the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:water.  The pleasant, roomy cabins and the luxurious furnishings of the steamer were something we had not expected.  Often at night we had been chilly on the <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
078.sgm:, and the accommodations were so cramped that it was impossible to be even mildly comfortable or have a good night's sleep.  To the contrary, the appointments of the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Early the next morning we went ashore at Sacramento.  We did not stop at the City Hotel, but took rooms in a new brick structure that had been opened recently.  Here the accommodations were even more simple than those at the Graham House in San Francisco, for the partitions of the sleeping quarters consisted merely of a few pieces of assorted muslin designed for temporary use.  But as Sutter always said:  "In a new land we must take things as they are."</P>
078.sgm:<P>The next morning we planned to catch a small, flat-bottom boat called the <HI REND="italics">Linda</HI>
078.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n15-15">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-15">The <HI REND="italics">Linda</HI>
078.sgm:<P>By now the water had somewhat subsided; the streets, however, were still covered by such deep mud that the pedestrian had to watch every step he took, and be careful where he placed his feet.  Having some time on my hands, I had an opportunity to stroll through the city and inspect the lots located on Front and O streets I had purchased from August Sutter before I left.  I found them without any difficulty.  To my dismay, I discovered that two separate tents had been erected on them, and that the men living in them claimed the lots as their own property, saying they had more right as squatters than I had as rightful owner.  They swore, furthermore, Sutter could never give clear title to land he did not own; but his legal rights did not cause me any more anxiety than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The property, I was told, was worth ten thousand dollars; that was the price adjoining lots were selling for.  But no one seemed willing to fight lawless squatters, and the men were a serious handicap to making a sale.  I might have bought the rights they claimed for several hundred dollars, but I did not feel inclined to do so, and told them frankly I did not think they had the slightest claim to my land.  I also let everyone in the neighborhood know that I was willing to sell my lot for ten thousand dollars, left word where I could be located, and said I would return to Sacramento in a short time.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One of the first men I asked about was my good old friend, Huggenberger.  I was not surprised at what I found out when I heard he had left for the mines.  Huggenberger had turned miner either because he thought he did not have enough gold, or because he was afraid he might feel ashamed of himself for not taking advantage of the opportunities offered in California.  At the mines, I was told, he went down into one of the extremely deep gorges believed to contain gold, and had considerable difficulty geting in, and even more trouble getting out.  Not strong enough to endure the hardships and privations of the gold mines, he soon fell ill.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Medicines were not to be had, there was no one to look after him, supplies ran low, and he was left to his own resources.  A frail little man, he met death there where he had hoped to find gold. As the adjoining ground was so rocky that it was impossible to dig a grave for him, he was placed in one of the deep crevices, and his body covered with gravel and pieces of rock.  That was the end of my kind, brave old friend, who had already accumulated from fourteen to fifteen thousand dollars' worth of gold, and yet, notwithstanding his fifty-four or fifty-five years, and the fact that he was a bachelor, wished to acquire even more wealth.<ANCHOR ID="n15-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-2b">Omission of folios 198 and 199 about Huggenberger.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Not long after I reached Sacramento, I inquired about another old acquaintance, a handsome American called Slater.  He was a man well along in years and the father of several children.  Before I left for Europe he had wanted me to operate a restaurant and billiard hall with him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Slater had told me he had five thousand dollars to put into some business, and when he found out that I had considerably more at my disposal, he did everything in his power to persuade me to become his associate.  I was favorably impressed by him; he seemed like a level-headed, sober, and sensible man, the type who would not sacrifice principles for more gold.  He was not only conscientious, but religious as well--virtues seldom found in this land of gold.  Much as I should have liked to have joined him in his business venture, I was unable to do so because I had promised August Sutter to go to Switzerland, and although I attempted to have him release me from my promise, he refused, and I would not break my word to him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>My poor friend Slater was not alive; he had been buried just two weeks before I got back.  His property in the city, including other possessions which he told me were worth about five thousand dollars, had a valuation now of thirty thousand.  He had sent for his family to join him in California, but did not live to see them gathered around him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Although I had every reason to be satisfied with the enhanced value of my lots in San Francisco and Sacramento, on the other hand I was deeply distressed over the death of two of my best friends, and the loss of my loyal dog, Tiger.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Traveling on the small river boat gave me an opportunity to find out how much damage the recent flood had done.  I noticed that both banks of the river were thickly strewn with carcasses of sheep, cattle, and horses, and , unless the wolves and buzzards consumed them in the meanwhile, when the warm weather came on they would contaminate the river.  On one hill near a deserted Indian village on the left bank of the river about eight miles above <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>On the boat I became acquainted with a man whose clothes, especially his bishop's hat, led me to believe he was a German; his name was Knobel<ANCHOR ID="n15-16">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: and he told me he had been sent as a delegate to California to find a place suitable for a large colony of German emigrants.  His conversation seemed intelligent, and I have no doubt he found several places for a German settlement.<ANCHOR ID="n15-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-16">There is no clue as to the identity of this bishop.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-3b">Brief omission in folio 199.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The further up the river we traveled, the more the water had subsided, but there were still traces of the recent floods everywhere.  Finally Hock Farm came into view.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The boat soon pulled up to the wharf.<ANCHOR ID="n15-17">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: The luggage was put ashore and I looked around to find someone to carry it to the house.  I saw an unfamiliar figure clad in buckskin trousers and a red flannel shirt.  He had a brown felt hat on his head, and was wearing a long bowie knife in a leather belt around his waist.  He walked slowly from the house down to the river.  Thirty or forty feet away he stopped and looked, first at me, and then off across the river.  He seemed to be a stranger, so I did not pay any attentionto him, not wanting to leave my luggage long enough to call anyone from the house.  In a short time old Captain Sutter, cane in hand, appeared.  He stopped near the man I had taken for a stranger, and after we had greeted one another, I asked where his son, August, was, as he had not appeared.  Sutter pointed to the man, who resembled a disreputable gold miner, and said: "My August?  Why there he is!"<ANCHOR ID="n15-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-17">For interesting glimpses of life at Hock Farm see <HI REND="italics">Hutching's California Magazine</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-4b">Omission of sections of folios 199 and 200.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>ELIZA CITY</P>
078.sgm:<P>Not long after my return from Europe, a city called Eliza<ANCHOR ID="n16-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: was started.  The town was situated about four miles above Hock Farm on the left bank of the Feather River at a point where it makes a great bend<ANCHOR ID="n16-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1a">In 1849 the Kennebec Company from Maine purchased the Mimal, or Memal Ranch, held by Jack Smith, from Sutter.  In January, 1850, a town was laid out.  By April ten houses, three stores, three saloons, and several tents had been erected at Eliza City.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-2a">The Seshums on Shanghai Bend, apparently.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>After I had been back a few days Sutter expressed his keen satisfaction for the care and thoughtfulness I had shown toward his family, and for having brought them safely to their destination, and offered to make me a present of several lots in Sacramento, and a few in Vernon,<ANCHOR ID="n16-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-3a">Vernon was founded in April, 1849, on the east bank of the Sacramento where it joins the Feather River.  Its founders were Franklin Bates, E. O. Crosby, and B. Emmons.  They bought the land from Sutter, who retained a quarter interest in the new subdivision.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>After Eliza City had been laid out and shares allotted, I was surprised to discover that Sutter gave away units which usually sold for one thousand dollars each, to men who seemed quite unworthy of such favors, but who had won his friendship through flattery.  So I told him if the offer he had made was still open, I would have no further objections if he wished to present me with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:a share inasmuch as he had given them to others whom I did not think had earned them.  Sutter assured me I could have the share he had offered me, and could participate in the raffle.  I was well pleased with the land I acquired when the drawing took place.  Meanwhile, I had gone to Sacramento and discovered that two squatters had erected tents on my lot, so sold my property to Mr. Gallagher<ANCHOR ID="n16-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-4a">Apparently John Gallagher, who came west with the N. Y. Volunteers.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The frame house, which was supposed to have been finished; had two stories and measured twenty-four by twenty-five feet; it was moved on a flat-bottom boat, the <HI REND="italics">Linda</HI>
078.sgm:<P>The Eliza City lot I intended to erect my house on was several blocks away from the Feather River, and as there was only one wagon in the town it cost me one hundred dollars to move the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<illus entity="a078-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LIENHARD IN HIS LATTER YEARS.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>In those days the saying: Time is Money, was heard everywhere in California.  Since I could not wait for Mr. Gallagher's return, because it would have delayed the carpenters, to whom I was paying high wages, I was obliged to pay for the extra material myself at an added expense of eight hundred dollars, not to mention freight.  This was disheartening, for I was not the type of man who spends money with an open hand; but I tried to make the best of the situation, and was proud of the fact that, when my house was finished, it would be the largest in Eliza City.  There was one room upstairs and one downstairs that extended the entire length of the house.  It was constructed entirely of wood; not one bucket of plaster had been used, for there were no fireplaces in the house.  From the lower to the upper room the connection was made by an outside stairway; the gables had a kind of Gothic ornamentation on them which the carpenters said was not in the contract, but they made no extra charge for it.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Finally what I called my Eliza City Hotel was finished.  It was after I had purchased the main part of the house from Mr. Gallagher, and had moved it to Eliza City, that I began to think it might be wise to secure a certificate of ownership from Sutter for my share.  Titles had already been issued and sent to many of the shareholders, so I went over to Hock Farm, found young Sutter, and told him exactly what I had come for.  When he heard I owned a unit, the young man seemed surprised.  So many others <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I insisted on receiving a title, however.  Extra material for the house was already at the wharf, so I said that if there was any misunderstanding about the gift, I would pay him a thousand dollars for the lot, rather than take gifts obtained by force, although many shares had been given to men who had done nothing for him or the family to deserve them.  I ended my little speech by saying that I must have title to the property, and would be willing to pay the full price for it.  Entering the captain's room, the young man remained there only a short time, then came out with my title, which led me to suspect that it had already been made out in my name.  I was even more surprised when they refused to accept the sum I was willing to pay for this share, even though I repeated the remark that I did not wish to receive offerings that were not freely given.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Eliza was now a city--on paper at least.  A Swiss lithographer, Mr. Fahnrich<ANCHOR ID="n16-5">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: of Laufenburg, Canton of Aargau, designed a handsome map of Eliza City; it was especially attractive with a sketch of the <HI REND="italics">Linda</HI>
078.sgm:, or <HI REND="italics">Phoenix</HI>
078.sgm:, at the landing.  I soon discovered several reasons why Eliza City would never become a metropolis; the most important, and undoubtedly the most serious obstacle, was the fact that several rich men also owned city lots in Marysville two miles away, and as two cities so close together could not flourish, one of them would have to be abandoned.  Eliza had the choicest site for a city and was superior to Marysville, because its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-5">Possibly an error in spelling.  He is not listed in early directories.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>When it was first opened, speculators thronged to Eliza City.  They came not because of its fine location, but to rejoice over the fact that it would never develop into a city.  Within a short time, a project was launched to cut down the high bank of the river, and provide a better landing for steamers; a subscription list was opened for this purpose, and my countryman, Mr. Fahnrich, sent it to all the shareholders, asking them to donate one or more ounces of gold toward it.</P>
078.sgm:<P>He was just the man to promote a public enterprise, yet whenever he tried to persuade anyone to donate anything, he was always regarded with suspicion, because everyone thought he was merely looking out for his own interests.  When I looked over the subscription list myself, I found out that my enthusiastic countryman had subscribed the large sum of exactly one-half ounce.  Mr. Fahnrich, I am convinced, would have preferred not to have had anyone know how much he had donated, especially after I drew attention to the fact that it was not proper for a man who was trying to persuade others to subscribe large amounts to be so niggardly himself.  Everyone, even Mr. Fahnrich, himself, laughed at this remark.  Men owning lots in both cities were not generous in their contributions toward the new landing; but we had not expected they would be.</P>
078.sgm:<P>In addition to the Eliza Hotel, which had no guests except its builder and his countrymen, Fahnrich and Faller, who were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Comparatively few landowners were in sympathy with this plan, which I considered excellent.  Finally an Englishman by the name of Smythe<ANCHOR ID="n16-6">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-6">This may be William Smythe, mate on the <HI REND="italics">Blossom</HI>
078.sgm:.  He was also an artist whose work appears in Forbes's <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
078.sgm:<P>It did not grow as rapidly as its founders expected; most of the young people who came in were of little value to the community, except to give a semblance of life to the place.  Young and merry, most of them took little interest in its development; they made Eliza City seem like a gay metropolis, however, although anyone remaining for several days in this new town with its four or five houses, could see that it was not really thriving.  It was not long before I knew that Eliza City would never become an important center; hence my surprise when shares in Eliza City reached a value of three thousand dollars and were still rising.  However, I pretended that I had faith in the future of the city, but, because I expected to leave California, I was placing all my real estate, including my lot in San Francisco and the one in Eliza, on the market at a low figure.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Captain Gelston,<ANCHOR ID="n16-7">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-7">Roland Gelston, who left the sea to become a merchant in San Francisco.  He owned considerable property there and in Sacramento.  Lienhard calls him Ralston and Galston.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>When I got back from Europe, I heard that the captain's son, August, was drinking and had developed a taste for whiskey.  The day after Gelston visited me a rider came up at a brisk gallop and stopped at the Eliza Hotel; he proved to be Captain Sutter's eldest son.  The young man seemed to be in high spirits, perhaps because he knew that shares in Eliza City, which he held, were rising.</P>
078.sgm:<P>At times Young Sutter was extremely talkative; he seemed unusually affable that day.  The conversation drifted to the rise in land values.  "I understand," I said, "that shares are hard to get even at three thousand dollars; however, I want to sell out here and in San Francisco because I expect to leave the country.  Captain Gelston, who speculates in real estate, was here yesterday.  I offered him my property for thirteen thousand dollars.  Isn't that cheap?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>Young Sutter looked at me quizzically and replied, "Yes, that's cheap.  You're a fool to sell out."</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>"But I intend to.  You know yourself, Mr. Sutter, that when a man pays a certain amount for lots, he wants to feel he can make a good profit in a short time."</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter did not make any comment, but repeated that I was foolish to dispose of my lots for this amount, now that prices were rising.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"You're right," I replied, "but when a man is going away he has no right to expect high prices.  If you care to buy my lots at that figure, you can have them, and I shall be happy if you make a profit on them."</P>
078.sgm:<P>The young man considered the matter for a few moments then said, "Mr. Lienhard, I will take all your property here and in San Francisco at that price.  Let me know about terms.  I have very little gold just now."</P>
078.sgm:<P>As I insisted on cash on account, he agreed to pay the balance within the next few months; I let him arrange the time and manner of payment to suit himself.  Terms were arranged and plans made to leave the following day for Sacramento, where I was to receive one thousand dollars.  The balance was to be secured by three notes; the first, for three thousand dollars, was payable in forty-five days; the second, for five thousand, in two and one-half months; and the third, for four thousand, in three and one-half months from the date issued.  The time seemed long, but I agreed to the transaction.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Mr. Fahnrich, who had been present while the agreement was being completed, was convinced Sutter had made a good deal, and as he knew where my lots were, he offered to take Sutter out to see them.  They left to look at the property, leaving me at the Eliza Hotel.  As they were walking south looking at my lots, I saw a well-dressed man approaching from the north, having apparently seen me in the distance.  When he came up, I found he was Mr. Weiman, the steward on the steamship <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>We recognized one another simultaneously, and had a pleasant reunion.  Mr. Weiman asked how I was and what I was doing.  When I told him that I had just built this hotel, which I owned, and also had some city lots, but had just sold them, including a lot thirty by sixty feet in San Francisco, for thirteen thousand dollars, he asked what the terms were, so I told him about the deferred payments with final payment in three and one-half months.  He told me I had been extremely foolish, and said he regretted not having arrived earlier, because the hotel, including the twenty-four lots and the San Francisco property, were worth at least twenty thousand dollars and he would have bought them at that price, paying the entire amount within twenty days.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The news was depressing; I did not have a written agreement with Sutter, but I intended to keep my word, even if Sutter resold at a profit of five thousand dollars at this time.  Mr. Weiman asked me where Sutter was, and I pointed toward the two men who were walking from lot to lot.  "They are looking at the lots, but will be back again," I said.  "If you really want them, I believe you can come to some kind of an agreement with Sutter, especially if you are willing to pay five thousand dollars more than he gave for the property."  He seemed determined to make a deal with Sutter, and as the two men were not far away, I promised to introduce him to Sutter.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Soon the men, who seemed quite elated, especially Sutter, who was the lucky buyer, were close enough for an introduction.  "Are you satisfied with the deal?" was my first question.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Entirely so," Sutter replied.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"I'm sorry I did not make the deal myself," his companion added, "it's one of the best shares in Eliza."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"I'm glad you are satisfied.  I knew you would be," I replied.  "Gentlemen, allow me to introduce Mr. Weiman.  When I was bringing the Sutter family over from Switzerland, he asked me to take six hundred and sixteen dollars to his wife in New York."</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>After the introduction had been made, I told Sutter that if he was not entirely satisfied with the transaction I had another buyer in Mr. Weiman, whom I had just told how many lots in addition to this house and a lot in San Francisco I had sold for thirteen thousand dollars.  Young Sutter seemed pleased when Weiman told him he could make a good profit by selling, but the former did not seem inclined to dispose of these lots immediately.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Mr. Sutter," said Weiman, "if the lot in San Francisco is located where Mr. Lienhard says it is, I will pay twenty thousand for it including this hotel and your share in these lots."  Hearing his remark, Sutter stepped back, as if he did not believe his ears, and stared at the man in an unfriendly manner, without saying a word.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Did you misunderstand him, Mr. Sutter?" I said.  "He is offering you several thousand more than you offered me.  Why don't you make a deal?  Do you think you can make that much money in so short a time any day?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Do you really mean it?" answered Sutter.  It seemed almost incredible to both of us that even in California so large a sum could be made virtually over-night.  Mr. Weiman then offered Sutter his right hand, exclaiming, "Here's my hand, Mr. Sutter; it's a deal."<ANCHOR ID="n16-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1b">Brief omission, folio 202.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>A short time before I sold my property, a tall young American by the name of Keyser,<ANCHOR ID="n16-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: a man of German extraction apparently, was chosen alcalde by popular vote.  One of his duties as alcalde was to make out titles, so Sutter advised me to have everything I had sold him made out in the name of Weiman.  Having made my agreement with Sutter, not Weiman, I did not think this was the proper course to pursue, and explained to him how I felt as well as the fact that the payments were not alike.  So <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:a deed was drawn between Sutter and myself, and the following morning we started for Sacramento, arriving at an early hour.  In the city Sutter procured the thousand dollars in gold, and made out the three notes according to our agreement, securing title from me.  Happy over the completion of the transaction and the thought that I would soon receive full payment from Sutter and could leave for New York and Philadelphia, I planned to take the first boat leaving in July.<ANCHOR ID="n16-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-8">Phil W. Keyser, who later held the position of judge of the superior court of Yuba and Sutter counties, and was one of the leading men of his day.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-2b">Sections of folio 202 omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Having completed my business in Sacramento, I decided to return to Eliza City, where, before I had erected the hotel, I had purchased a tent.  Instead of incurring expense for board, I now decided to live the life of a bachelor as I had done before.  Purchasing a large amount of supplies, such as sardines, soups, sausages, peas, etc., as well as a six-gallon keg of Chinese honey cakes, chocolates, sweetmeats, sugar, and a whole box of Chinese tea, I began to keep house.  Meanwhile, I was looking eagerly forward to leaving this land of gold, which was also the land of murderers, drunkards, and cut-throats, within a short time.</P>
078.sgm:<P>So far I have mentioned only my plans for the future; I shall now describe what was going on nearby.  Dr. Bates, whom I have already mentioned and who was a shareholder, had erected a tent on one of his lots near me; he intended to make his home there for a time.  Although his location was suitable while the weather was fair, he should have selected higher ground.  Often Dr. Bates was absent from Eliza City, but his young brother<ANCHOR ID="n16-9">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: usually stayed there to look after his interests.  One day the cashier at the shack where I went to pay a bill for some freight asked me if I had seen the passengers who had just landed from the steamer; he advised me to watch for a young boy, who was really a girl in boy's clothing.  Thus disguised, she had been lured away from her mother, a young and eminently respectable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-9">Henry Bates, the brother of Dr. Bates.  He was later alcalde at Sacramento and part owner of the town of Vernon.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The clerk was describing the young girl's general appearance and attire, and as we were talking three or four young men, accompanied by the girl, walked over to the steamer.  Henry Bates, Dr. Bate's brother, was with them.  As they were old friends, the travelers suddenly decided to remain for a time at Eliza City, because Bates offered to let them live in his commodious tent.  Before long we knew the various members of the party Delia Willock, who was dressed as a boy, told me she was fourteen years old, and was the only child of a pretty young widow called Willock, who had recently come from Boston to San Francisco.  Not long before leaving on this trip, the romantic Delia had been living in a boarding school, but like many girls of wealthy families, especially those who live in large cities, she had led a life of complete idleness and being attractive and intelligent, had developed into a selfish and headstrong young woman.</P>
078.sgm:<P>She described her escapade at some length and told me the young man who kidnapped her had carefully arranged the time and departure, which was planned to coincide with that of the steamer, <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
078.sgm:<P>At first Mrs. Willock was disinclined to believe the man's story; finally, having decided that he was in earnest, she hurried away, intending to return without delay, for she was anxious about her daughter, who had many admirers.  To prevent anyone from entering or her daughter from leaving the house in her absence, she locked the girl carefully in her room, and barred the door outside.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>After following the man's instructions and reaching the home he had described, Mrs. Willock realized she had been deceived; she began to believe a sinister trick had been played on her.  Rushing home, she discovered that her irresponsible daughter had disappeared.  Suspecting she might try to leave the city, she ran down to the embarcadero, only to find that the Sacramento steamer had just pulled away from the dock.  With tears streaming down her face, she called to the captain to stop, that her only child had been kidnapped and taken aboard; no one paid any attention to her cries, however, although she could see her girl, dressed as a boy, standing among some disreputable-looking men.</P>
078.sgm:<P>While the woman was on her way on her visit of mercy, the young girl, with the assistance of several acquaintances, had been aided to escape through the window, given trousers, coat, hat, and boots, and taken aboard the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, the kidnapers with their frivolous victim had reached Eliza City, where Henry Bates proved to be a good friend as well as a willing accomplice by offering them the hospitality of his tent.  Naturally this event created considerable excitement in our community.  All the kidnapers were handsome, jolly fellows who belong to good families apparently, but liked to enjoy life in their own carefree way.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One of them was a fair violinist and knew all the latest tunes; we had a round of songs, music and laughter while he was there.  Finally, the San Francisco newspaper describing the kidnaping and the request that the girl return to her home was received, and word sent to Mrs. Willock that the girl was in Eliza City.  When the mother found out where her daughter was staying, she sent a friend, Mr. Smythe, to persuade her to come back.  Delia, however, refused to return to her parent, and Mr. Smythe was not brave enough to do more than talk to her in a kindly manner, which of course was useless.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>About this time the old, and highly-respected Captain Gelston learned of the affair.  He went to see the frivolous young girl, and tried to make her go home; but she refused.  Finally, the old man came and talked to me about it, and as Delia was living in my neighborhood, we decided to go and see her together.  During our visit the captain called her attention to the fact that she was not properly dressed for a girl, and pointed out the serious consequences that might arise if she did not return to her mother immediately, but his stern words failed to make any impression on the culprit, who seemed to be totally lacking in any filial affection for her mother.  I knew that after this escapade she was probably completely estranged from her parent, and from all respectable members of society, and I warned Gelston his mission would probably be a futile one; but he would not believe me until he had talked with the girl herself.</P>
078.sgm:<P>While the weather was warm and sunny, the merry group had been comparatively comfortable in the tent, but one night heavy rains fell, and everyone was thoroughly drenched.  I suspected I would have some unwelcome guests in the Eliza Hotel, and my fears were realized the following morning when the pretty lad, whom we called Miss Delia, came over and asked me to take them in out of the wind and rain.  The ringleader soon followed, and asked if I would rent them a room.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I agreed, but only with the understanding that they would be quiet, would leave when the rains stopped, and would be prepared to vacate, if I asked them to.  Bob, as the leader was called, agreed.  They did not keep quiet, however; sounds of music, dancing, singing, and general merriment resounded through the Eliza Hotel at all hours and I was finally asked if I would object if they arranged a dance.  I told them I would give my consent, if they would not make too much noise.<ANCHOR ID="n16-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-3b">Omission of portions of folios 202 and 203 describing festivities at Eliza City.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I was relieved when the entire group left a few days later for Marysville, a town more to their taste.  Although I could not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The cleverness of Yankees, who have the reputation of being able to foretell the future of an enterprise and profit by it is frequently a matter of comment; many of them are insincere and not entirely honest, however, especially if it is to their advantage to do so.  I remember two men from Maine who came to see me one day.  Both of them had all the characteristics of true Yankees, and as they entered I thought to myself: Watch out!  They had come to rent my house to use as a hotel and bar, and agreed on a monthly rental of one hundred and fifty dollars, payable in advance, for I was afraid I could never collect my rent, especially from Yankees, in any other manner.  Having arranged terms, the two men paid me for the first month, moved in immediately, and furnished the place with plain, cheap, but practical furniture.  Although everything was ready to accommodate a large number of people, guests were slow in arriving, and the already lean faces of the proprietors grew leaner every day.  I felt genuinely sorry for them, and went over several times for meals.  They were quite expensive; I could have eaten the same or better food at home for exactly one-fourth the price they asked.  The two men did not remain with me many months, and left the hotel about the time I had some business to transact with Sutter.</P>
078.sgm:<P>However, all the time I knew them I never found anything objectionable in them; they seemed like respectable men, and it seems unfair to label all Yankees as bad and dishonest, for there are exceptions to all rules.  Many of them are decent and honorable men who should be commended for their splendid energy and enterprise.  Oddly enough, they usually seem to know how to make a profit where others fail.  But keep your eyes open when you deal with Yankees!<ANCHOR ID="n16-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-4b">Sections of folios 203 and 204 describing Lienhard's target practice and hunting expeditions omitted at this point.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>HOCK FARM</P>
078.sgm:<P>Now that I no longer had any property to look after in Eliza, I spent most of my time enjoying myself at Hock Farm.  Sutter had employed an elderly German to take charge of his fruit and vegetable gardens, and to supervise his Indian helpers, but this gardener, who name was Wurstenfeld, was a hot-tempered man, who spoke nothing but German, and who, as a consequence, had endless trouble with the Indians.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Although he would show them how to hold a stick of wood in their hands, drive a hole in the loose soil, insert a plant, and press the dirt down with the stick, yet the Indians, who were naturally phlegmatic and indifferent, and either did not care, or did not wish to understand him, were unable to please him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Poor Mr. Wurstenfeld would become so angry that he threatened to resign time and again, yet every time he made these threats the Indians merely looked at him stolidly, which annoyed him even more.  His bursts of temper were futile, however, for the Indians could not understand what the enraged man said.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I happened to be there one day when Wurstenfeld was trying to plant cabbages.  The more furious he grew and the more he gesticulated, the more flustered and upset the Indians became.  Everything went wrong.  Finally he hit them with his stick, and said it was useless to try and work with such stupid beasts.  I felt as sorry for the Indians as I did for poor old Wurstenfeld.  Years of experience had taught me how to handle natives, so I took a stick, and told the workmen to come over and watch me make holes and plant.  I was extremely pleased to see that in a comparatively short time every one of them did his work well.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:Wurstenfeld inspected what they had done to see if any of the seedlings could be pulled up, and was quite satisfied.<ANCHOR ID="n17-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1a">Omission of folios 204 to 208 describing a trip to the Buttes hunting elk.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>One time when I got back to Hock Farm after a hunting trip, I met one of my countrymen, called David Engler,<ANCHOR ID="n17-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1b">George or David Engler was the son of Herr Engler of St. Gallen, a former associate of Mr. Kamer.  Schlafli knew him at Hock Farm.  See <HI REND="italics">Das Burgdorfer Jahrbuch</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Engler was a small, frail man, with a sallow complexion, dark hair, and large eyes for a man of his size.  But his voice was loud; anyone hearing him talk without seeing him would have had the impression that he was at least six feet tall.  Although I did not consider him a handsome man, he was sociable and quite popular.  Like most newcomers, Engler was short of funds, and was not strong enough for hard manual labor, so giving piano lessons was easier than the strenuous life of a gold miner; he had a large repertoire of music, especially for dancing, and even sang to his own accompaniment.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Rather than soil his delicate hands with manual labor, he decided to make himself attractive to the charming Eliza, who was now about twenty-three years old, and it was a comparatively easy task for the persistent young music teacher to win the heart of the susceptible young lady.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One evening Thomen came to Hock Farm to see me.  I had been away on a hunting trip to the Buttes for some time, and was out of touch with the Sutter family, but when he told me everyone <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:was talking about Engler and Miss Eliza, I was not surprised, for I had seen them together many times, and had my own suspicions.  Although Sutter once told me that <HI REND="italics">his children</HI>
078.sgm:<P>One day the young lady asked me to go horseback riding with her.  I accepted, although I did not know why I had been asked.  As soon as we had passed through the gate, Miss Eliza whipped her horse to a brisk gallop; I had to put the spurs to my horse to keep up with her.  For a time we rode as rapidly as if we were trying to escape an imaginary enemy.  Then Miss Eliza reined in her horse, and began to talk.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Mr. Lienhard," she said, "I should like to ask what your opinion of Mr. Engler is?  Is he the man for me?</P>
078.sgm:<P>"What do you mean?  Do you want my advice as to whether he will make a good husband?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes, that's what I mean.  I like him very much, but my father will not give his consent to the match.  He thinks I should marry a captain or a major--someone who has more standing."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"I cannot give you a definite answer in this matter," I replied.  "Mr. Engler is not a bad fellow, at least from what I know about him, and he seems remarkably clever.  His being poor is not a crime, and whatever he lacks in physical charm is more than made up by his friendliness."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"I know he is all right, and I like him.  Do you mean you don't think he is handsome?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Oh, no, I merely mean he is not as handsome or tall as many men are, and besides if you like him why don't you marry him?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"That's exactly what I think!  Father shouldn't say anything about the fact that he is poor, for he had no money when he married my mother.  But my brother, August, does.  I think he, too, dislikes him.  Perhaps it is because he borrowed money from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Most of my time was now spent at Nicolaus, twelve miles away on the Feather River; but sometimes I went to Hock Farm, and occasionally to Eliza City.  One of my traveling companions, Rippstein, had a house at Nicolaus where Thomen and I often stayed.  Later on Thomen, who had been in Sacramento since the day I saw him at Hock Farm, told me Eliza and Engler seemed to be on extremely friendly terms with one another, and he believed they expected to marry.  Someone repeated these remarks to August Sutter, who had been at the fort; he complained to me that Thomen was spreading scandalous and shameful rumors, and said his father should be informed that everyone in Sacramento was talking about his sister.</P>
078.sgm:<P>August went back to Hock Farm, repeated the gossip to the respectable old man who listened with paternal anger, and decided to end the scandal that was blackening the purity of the family name.  Writing to his prospective son-in-law, he sent him the balance due on his salary, and ordered him to leave the farm the same day and neither write nor come near him nor his daughter again.  Old Sutter was in a highly excitable state, and talked so harshly to his daughter that she tried to commit suicide by cutting an artery on her wrist with a knife.  I was even told that Sutter offered her a pistol, telling her she could end her life quicker that way.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The day it all happened I had gone from Nicolaus to Hock Farm to see a man from Basel called Bader,<ANCHOR ID="n17-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: whom Sutter had hired with Baltasser Schatt as his assistant, to build a new frame house.  There Bader, who was a good friend of mine, asked me to step inside the new house as he had something serious to tell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-2a">Bader lived a few miles below Hock Farm; he kept a public house and sold liquor.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I was still talking to him when Engler came into the house in great excitement, showed me the letter from Sutter, and said that my friend Thomen was responsible, because he had gossiped about him and Eliza in Sacramento.  Most of his rage, however, seemed to be directed against August; he accused him of having exaggerated the situation maliciously.  I told him Thomen might have made some remarks about the possibility of his marrying Eliza, but that I knew nothing about it.  So Engler left to pack his belongings, intending to return with me to Nicolaus on the steamer that was due from Marysville.</P>
078.sgm:<P>No sooner had he left than I received a message from Miss Eliza saying she wanted to see me and tell me something.  I felt extremely sorry for her.  She look pale, shaken, and agitated; her eyes were red and swollen from crying.  We walked through the vegetable garden while she poured out her troubles to me.  She seemed deeply concerned about Engler's comfort, and asked me to find a place for him to stay while he was away.  Many harsh things were said about Thomen, and especially about her brother, August.  During our conversation, she also showed me the cut on her arm, and told me about her father's offering her a pistol in his anger.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"What can I do about it?"  I said, "Shall I go to your father and talk it over with him?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"By no means," she replied, "he is so angry he might shoot you."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Well, I am not afraid of him or of his pistols."</P>
078.sgm:<P>Miss Eliza refused to let me interfere, so all I could do was to try to console her by saying her father might change his mind later on.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Finally the steamer <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
078.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n17-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: arrived, and stopped at our signal.  Young Emil was the only person who went down to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:see Engler off.  Calling me aside he tried to discuss Thomen's conduct with me, but I merely told him I knew him too well to believe that he had said anything actually derogatory about Engler or his sister.  The <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
078.sgm: soon landed us at Nicolaus; and Engler and I went to stay with Rippstein.<ANCHOR ID="n17-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-3a">The <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-2b">Omission of a section of folio 209.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Although the first payment on August Sutter's note was due, I had not seen nor heard from him.  Meanwhile, I had decided to buy three hundred and twenty acres of land on the Feather River from old Sutter, midway between Nicolaus and Hock Farm, which had an abandoned Indian village on it, if the captain would agree to accept the money his son owed me in payment.  I expected to leave for Hock Farm in a few days to discuss my plan with the old gentleman, and when Engler heard I was leaving, he decided to send the captain a letter, even though he had been expressly forbidden to write him, which he begged me to deliver.  Unwilling to be drawn into the matter I declined.  Engler went down to the steamer when I went aboard, however, and gave his letter to the purser.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Being the only passenger who was going ashore at Hock Farm, I was not surprised when the purser handed me the same letter to deliver to Sutter; I took it, found the Irish caretaker, Bray, and asked him to hand it to the captain, explaining that it was from Engler, who had asked me to deliver it, but that I had refused, and he had sent it by the clerk on the boat who had passed it on to me, anyway.</P>
078.sgm:<P>When I arrived, Sutter was discussing business with several Americans.  My friend Custer,<ANCHOR ID="n17-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: who was working on some survey maps for Sutter, was in another corner of the same room, so I sat down near him, intending to wait until Sutter was free.  One of these pseudo-gentlemen was the kind of man whose main ambition was to make money any way he could and as fast as he could, and it was obvious from their conversation that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-4a">John Custer, of the Fauntleroy Dragoons, who came west in 1846.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Excusing myself for interrupting them, I said, "Captain, you seem to be on the verge of selling a piece of land you have already sold to some of my countrymen.  Possibly you recall the day I returned to Sacramento to bring you to San Francisco, when I was a witness to this transaction.  I am quite familiar with the land, and am certain this was the same you sold.  I would even be willing to swear to it."</P>
078.sgm:<P>But the purchasers, as well as Sutter himself, declared that I was mistaken, and although I made the same statement again, they completed the deal and agreed on a price which I cannot recall now.  If my six countrymen had sued Sutter, the case would have cost him a large amount of money, I believe, but since they were kind-hearted Swiss, he got off cheap.  When his conversation with the three gentlemen was over and they had left the room, Sutter called me over to tell me that he was ready to talk with me.  I sat down at his table and asked him if I could make arrangements to buy some land I had been looking at, and if he would be willing to take his son's notes which I held.  Sutter refused my request; he said he had done as much for his son as he could for the present, and as he was dissatisfied with him he did not care to become involved in the proposal I made.  I should have left then.  The talk turned to other matters, however, and we were still chatting when Bray entered the room to deliver the letter to the captain, with the remark: "The clerk on the <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
078.sgm:<P>"All right," replied Sutter.  Bray departed, winking at me as he passed.  Meanwhile Sutter opened the envelope and looked at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Months later while I was in Switzerland, I was astonished to read in the New York Herald that Miss Eliza Sutter had married a Swiss gentleman, and that their nuptials had been celebrated at Hock Farm in the presence of many wedding guests.  The article also said the affair was an elaborate one; that a large amount of wine had been consumed, and several celebrated guests had given speeches and offered toasts, that Indian dances and games had been performed near the house, and that there had been a large display of fireworks on the river.<ANCHOR ID="n17-5a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n17-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-5a">The wedding took place on March 1, 1852, at Hock Farm.  Judge Cushing of Marysville officiated, and guests from all over the state attended.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-3b">A section of folio 210 omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Later, Mrs. Kamer told me that a handsome young American artist who was commissioned to make oil portraits of Sutter's family, had come to Hock Farm after I had left.  He fell in love with Miss Sutter, and everyone believed that the young painter would be Sutter's son-in-law.  Mrs. Kamer, I believe, was living at Hock Farm at the time, although she may have become acquainted with the happy bridegroom some other way.  The young man, who was supposed to be deeply in love, looked extremely angry one day, and Mrs. Kamer said to him: "If you are to be the son-in-law of Captain Sutter, and the proud possessor of Miss Sutter's hand, I should think you would be happy.  What makes you look so cross?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>The artist merely said: "Yes, I should look happy."  Then he lapsed into silence; the disagreeable look on his face did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Then she told me the other side of the story.  Engler, who had found employment in Sacramento, went into the bar of the William Tell one day, and was chatting with several men, when he was given a letter that had just come from Hock Farm.  Upon opening it, he became extremely excited, and said to his friends: "I must leave for Hock Farm, immediately."  Packing his belongings, he left by the first steamer.  The rumor soon circulated that Engler had succeeded in winning Sutter's consent to marry; it was not long after that that the wedding I heard about took place.  Why the rejected suitor was so suddenly and unexpectedly received as a husband and son-in-law, especially when he had acquired neither wealth, good looks, nor the rank of captain or major, qualifications which had formerly seemed so important, was a matter of considerable gossip.<ANCHOR ID="n17-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-4b">Omission, folio 210.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Emil did not seem to be especially popular with his family.  He was not handsome and, being hard of hearing, did not always understand what was said.  He was the most moody member of the family, and was often irritable.  I never liked him; Alphonse was my favorite.  One day when the family had been at Hock Farm for about two or three weeks, the lad came to me and said he knew I could foretell the future.  I asked him why he thought so.  "Don't you remember, Mr. Lienhard," he replied, "what you told Emil at Mazatlan when he complained about the preserved fruits for mama.  You said that if he misrepresented facts in that manner in California, he would receive a beating before he had been here a month."  Just because he had already received one for impudence toward his brother August, who had trashed him for some trivial reason, he considered me a prophet.<ANCHOR ID="n17-5b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-5b">Further omission in folio 210.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Occasionally after the trip to Europe I saw some of the men I had known before the gold rush.  One was Johnson, the famous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:ex-husband of Mrs. Covillaud, who lived on his farm on Bear Creek with two squaws for several years.  Another was my German countryman, Keyser,<ANCHOR ID="n17-6a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-6a">Kaiser in the MS.  Sebastian Keyser, an Austrian who came west in 1838 with Sutter, but did not reach New Helvetia until 1841.  Four years later he settled on Bear Creek, where he owned half of Johnson's Rancho.  His wife was Elizabeth Rhoades.  In 1849 he sold his property and operated a ferry on the Cosumnes, where he was drowned the following year.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>One of the most pathetic figures was Cordua, the man who once owned the site on which Marysville was built, three leagues of the richest land on the Yuba and Feather rivers, two thousand head of cattle, and eight hundred horses, the man who sold half his holdings to Covillaud for twelve thousand dollars, and the other half to his brothers-in-law, Nye and Foster, for twenty-thousand; he drank most of the time now, possibly from remorse over having lost his valuable holdings.  He had always been careless, and, under the influence of alcohol, often speculated foolishly.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The last time I had seen him was soon after I had built the Eliza Hotel, where he visited me.  Even then his slovenly appearance showed that he had been drinking; his dirty unkempt clothes sagged from his corpulent body, his socks hung down over his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:shoes, his hair had not been combed for a long time, and his face showed the lack of a washcloth and a basin of clean water.<ANCHOR ID="n17-6b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-6b">A section of folio 211 describing a shabby Indian, who visited Lienhard, has been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Charles Roether, one of the men who joined a large party for the overland trip in the summer of 1845, and then abandoned their leader under very suspicious circumstances while out hunting, was another old comrade I met at the same time; he was very agreeable, although he seemed to consider himself my superior in everything, especially in worldly goods.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As I never went to Marysville, I seldom came into contact with Covillaud.  The last time I saw him was in Sacramento; even there I might not have noticed him, if I had not heard him speak.  He had called out to someone, and the voice sounded familiar, so I turned around, and, to my great surprise, saw my old friend, whom I scarcely recognized.  I always thought of him as the husband of one of the prettiest women in California, as well as the possessor of at least half a million dollars; he had always looked extremely healthy, happy, and well-dressed, but now I noticed his face was pale and wrinkled, and that his clothes were no better than they had been in the old days when he was poor.  Nevertheless, we were extremely glad to see one another again.  I remarked that his sister-in-law, Mrs. Foster, had told me he had married the beautiful Mary, and had made a fortune.  He said it was true.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"You don't look happy," I replied, "Why not?  Do you remember the time when you, Huggenberg[overd;]er, and I took a walk about two years ago over there"--I pointed to a neighboring place in the forest where we had walked through the trees near where the American Fork joins the Sacramento--"and you told me that you wanted to stay in California until you had made ten thousand dollars, then return to Bordeaux, marry a pretty girl, and live happily ever after?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes, I remember."</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>"Now you have a pretty girl for a wife, and instead of the ten thousand dollars you have half a million; yet you seem uneasy and restless.  What's the matter?  Why don't you leave here and return to your fatherland?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Leave this country?  Now when I am just beginning to make some real money," Covillaud replied.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"I merely thought that when you believed you could be happy on ten thousand dollars and were married to a woman back in France, surely you could be satisfied with what you have.  I can't understand why you stay here when you don't enjoy your money.  You look unhappy to me.  Something seems to be troubling you."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"I'll tell you why I am so miserable," he replied.  "I own considerable property, and two small river steamers.  Since it is impossible for me to look after everything myself, I have to hire men to help me.  But I have found out that they are all trying to get rich at my expense, by stealing and swindling me whenever they can.  It makes me so angry that I am nearly ill, and that is why I look the way I do."</P>
078.sgm:<P>I remember the time I went to Hock Farm intending to make arrangements with Mr. Sutter to accept his son's notes for some land I wanted to buy and met the cabinet-maker, Bader, from Basel, who was eager to have me take some land that lay halfway between Nicolaus and Hock Farm, where an Indian village had once stood.  I liked the place because the soil was rich; the land was low, however, and there was danger of floods, except in the area of the old Indian settlement.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Lienhard," Bader urged, "arrange to buy the land you want from Sutter, and I will purchase the adjoining property.  You will make an ideal neighbor for us.  My wife is living with her relatives in Pennsylvania just now, but I intend to send for her after I have some land."</P>
078.sgm:<P>Good-natured and industrious as Bader seemed to be, he was oblivious to the evil ways of mankind.  I recall his one weakness was a habit of telling small lies, but it was a trait that came from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Bader laughed at my warning; the country, he said, was not as  wild as I pictured it.  "You don't know how bad men are," I told him, "not having been in America very long, you have no idea what a dangerous place California is.  Men will do anything to get what they want."  Again he laughed; he considered me a coward, or a born  pessimist, I am afraid.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One day in Kilchberg years after I was reading the New York Herald and was glancing through the news about California, which consisted for the most part of robberies and murders, when I came across an account of a hideous crime committed about six miles below Hock Farm on the Feather River.  The article said that a Swiss ranchero called Bader lived with his wife in a small house adjoining a little corral near a slough, where Mrs. Bader washed clothes, under the shade of some large oak trees.  One evening a man appeared, and asked for lodgings for the night.  Although he was a stranger, he was accommodated, given supper, a bed for the night, and breakfast the following morning.  The next day Mr. Bader had to leave home to attend to some business at Hock Farm, so he went out and saddled one of the horses in his corral, paying no more attention to his guest.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The stranger, a Swede or a Norwegian called Jackson, who was watching Bader, asked: "Are you going riding?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>Yes," Bader replied, "I'm going over to Sutter's farm, but I expect to be back soon."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"I'll wait here until you return," said the stranger.  Bader hesitated to tell him it was time for him to leave, but got on his  horse, and started off toward Sutter's farm.  Having transacted his business, he started back immediately.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Upon the return trip he met two neighbors and asked them if everything was all right at home.  They assured him it was, but when he reached his house, his wife, who usually came out to meet him, did not appear.  Calling, he received no answer.  Dismounting from his horse, Bader went toward the slough where he knew his wife intended to wash that day, and met Jackson, who was drunk, staggering toward him.  He asked him where his wife was.  The man drew a revolver and said, "Yes, I know where she is; I'm going to send you to join her."  Bader rushed into the house to get his double-barreled gun; but found both chambers empty; as he came out, intending to take his horse and get help from the neighbors, he saw Jackson galloping away on it at full speed.  Taking another horse from the corral, he rode to the nearest house, and reported what had occurred.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The neighbors saddled their horses.  Following Jackson's trail, they soon overtook him.<ANCHOR ID="n17-7a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-7a">The murderer of Mrs. Bader was caught near Yuba City.  See Peter J. Delay, <HI REND="italics">History of Yuba and Sutter Counties</HI>
078.sgm:<P>"Nothing!" was the reply.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The following day the alcalde summoned a jury, but before it had assembled, the people took the law into their own hands, and hanged the murderer from the limb of an oak.<ANCHOR ID="n17-7b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-7b">Omission, folios 212 and 213, concerning Lienhard's friendly relations with Durr.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>After disposing of my property to August Sutter, I spent most of my time, as I have said, at Nicolaus.  I slept in my blankets at Rippstein's house, and either cooked for myself, or took my meals at a boarding house next door that belonged to an American <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:named Wheeler.  The Wheeler family consisted of three persons, Mr. Wheeler, his wife, and a girl.<ANCHOR ID="n17-8a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-8a">Omission in folios 214 and 215 about the Wheeler family and Lienhard's dog.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>At Nicolaus I recall meeting another Swiss called Charley Matt<ANCHOR ID="n17-8b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-8b">Probably James Matt, known to have been at the fort in 1848.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>A party of armed men assembled immediately, intending to leave for the mountains to punish the Indians.  Every available man was called; many of us could not make up our minds to go, however, for the cruel action taken against innocent Indians on the American River was still a poignant memory, and the thought that natives who were not guilty might have to pay for the new crime, kept my friend Thomen and me from joining the pursuit party.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The following day the men who had gone out came back, and told us they had burned several huts and taken one or two squaws prisoners.  Although Allgeier was the ringleader of the expedition, one of his own native boys had tied an Indian woman to the back of his saddle and tried to save her; however, he had acted without instructions from his master who was extremely angry about it, probably because he wanted the woman himself.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>In addition to the squaws, the spoils consisted merely of a few bows and arrows.  I bought some of the loot, including quivers made from fox pelts, for two dollars and took them to Switzerland where I gave them to a friend of mine, Major Ott, who purchased my house and property in Kilchberg.  I should not have been surprised to learn that the Indians who had been punished were innocent; guilty natives would have anticipated this attack and escaped from the danger zone.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I had always considered the people in Nicolaus quiet and law-abiding, but a certain tragic incident revealed the truth of the good old adage: Beware whom you trust.  One day, when the <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Several times I rode my mare from Nicolaus across the prairies to Sacramento.  I enjoyed these trips immensely, not only because the prairie was so delightful in spring, but also because the elk were so much tamer than the wild cattle that often traveled in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:herds of several hundred, and disappeared when human beings came into sight.<ANCHOR ID="n17-9a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-9a">Omission, folios 215 to 216.  These describe Lienhard's troubles collecting money from young Sutter for payment of his property, and his decision to go to law about it.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>When I got back to Nicolaus, I had an opportunity to see Mr. Wertlemann for the first time since our meeting at the Isthmus; the poor man was sick with chills and fever, he had no money, no ambition to make any, and was desperately homesick.  I could never understand why a man, who was enterprising enough to amass a capital of two hundred thousand gulden in Switzerland, was unable to make a living in a land where everyone else was growing rich overnight.  After he had recuperated, he left for parts unknown; that was the last I saw or heard of him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Many of my old friends came to Nicolaus.  Including myself, there were often as many as seven of us; in addition to Thomen, Rippstein, and Engler, there was Mr. Custer, a handsome young man who had surveyed some land for Sutter, who was a native of Rheinegg, St. Gallen; a fat, jovial man called Bellaire from Neuchatel; and a Mr. Faller of Rorschack, also from St. Gallen.<ANCHOR ID="n17-9b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: The latter, who had studied chemistry, told us that during his student days he had squandered twenty thousand gulden, which had left him extremely poor; I was not surprised, if the stories that were told about him were true.<ANCHOR ID="n17-10a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-9b">Possibly the Fallet known to have been at the fort in 1847.  The others are not listed in Bancroft's Register.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-10a">Omission in folio 216.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>When I rode over to Eliza for the last time, I met a Swiss watchmaker called Bischoff;<ANCHOR ID="n17-10b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: I sold him my horse, saddle, and other equipment for one hundred and fifty dollars in gold dust.  The sample I had in a glass bottle proved to be unusually pure, and had a value of eighteen dollars an ounce.<ANCHOR ID="n17-11">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-10b">J. J. Bischoff, who later owned a jewelry store in Marysville.  His business card appears in the <HI REND="italics">Marysville Herald</HI>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-11">Omission in folios 216 and 217 where Lienhard discusseshis financial troubles with the Sutter family.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Sacramento had several well-known gambling halls that were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I remember one of them where a pretty young girl, scarcely more  than a child, stood near the main door behind a small table, and sold bakery goods for gold dust.  Rough men who frequented the place stared at her; she was expected to smile at their coarse jokes.  In the rear was another table, where a vulgar girl with a brazen face and an indecent costume joked with the customers, and sold assorted soft drinks, including lemonade.  However, these two girls did not interest me as much as raised platform for music that was occupied by a young Italian, who played the piano.  Connoisseurs of music told me he was an accomplished artist.  Beside him sat a quiet young man playing the violin.  He fascinated me; I always enjoyed listening to the magic tones and melodies he coaxed from his instrument.  Sometimes I was almost afraid to breathe for fear I might miss a note of his exquisite melodies that seemed to float down from another world, where angels were playing celestial music.  Near the rear on the left side of the hall stood a long counter decorated in an attractive manner; directly behind it was a commodious shelf, that held an assortment of bottles containing liquor.  A well-dressed man, who acted as the bartender, presided over the drinks.<ANCHOR ID="n17-12">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-12">Omission in folio 218 of description of hall.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>After listening to the music one evening, Rippstein, Thomen, and I went to the bar and ordered lemonade.  Suddenly we heard loud noises at one of the gambling tables, and saw the gamblers jump up from their seats, as a tall Chilean wearing a long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Gamblers were always armed, and there were so many of them in the room that night that the crowd, who asked to have the man hanged, had little chance of success because gamblers invariably rallied to each other's support.  The Chilean came out from his hiding place underneath the counter, and limped toward the door.  He had almost reached it when some of the gamblers pretended they were going to follow him.  The trick succeeded.  Even with a bullet in his hip he reached the street with amazing speed, while the crowd roared with laughter.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One morning I dropped in to listen to the music again, and found only one table occupied.  Suddenly a man sitting at it got up in an excited manner, threw an empty sack over his arm, and, as he walked toward the door, looked back and made a half-angry, half-humorous remark.  After he had gone, the others at the same table laughed heartily; I was told that the man with the sack had arrived the night before intending to break the bank and had brought his entire capital, several thousand dollars in gold.  He had lost every dollar of it.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Samuel Brannan, a former Mormon elder, lost thirty thousand dollars in one night in an attempt to break the bank; another time, I believe, he succeeded, and won twenty-five thousand dollars, making his total loss a mere five thousand.  Anyone who could brag he had broken the bank was a hero, and Brannan had so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:much money that he would rather lose what he did than not to be able to talk about the time he won.  It was an attitude of mind I could never understand.  Brannan, I believe, became one of the largest landowners and wealthiest men in California, owning property worth millions of dollars.<ANCHOR ID="n17-13">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-13">Omission of folio 219.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>LAST DAYS IN CALIFORNIA</P>
078.sgm:<P>My affairs with Sutter having been settled, I was now ready to leave Sacramento permanently.  In addition to six thousand that had been sent on to New York, I had eighteen thousand dollars in gold; but I could not decide whether I should carry all this gold out of the country or not, and finally made up my mind it would be safer to invest part of it in city lots.  I also placed some of it in the hands of a forwarding agency in San Francisco, and carried the balance with me in my trunk.  By so doing, I could distribute the risk and there would be little chance of losing all my wealth.</P>
078.sgm:<P>So I bought a building lot from Mr. Ritschard for four thousand dollars; it was sixty by one hundred and sixty feet, adjoined the William Tell Hotel on F Street, and was directly across from a small Chinese house.  The lot had not been fenced in to keep squatters away, and before I left Sacramento I purchased planks for fencing which cost another hundred dollars, making the total investment forty-one hundred.  Then I had to have an agent for the lot and asked Henry Thomen to look after it; but he told me he always hired someone himself, because he spoke broken English and could neither read nor write the language.</P>
078.sgm:<P>My other friend, Rippstein, whom I had known for a long time, was so greedy and selfish that I was reluctant to trust him, so I abandoned that idea, too; I even considered having Rutte, Tissot and Company because the members of the firm seemed so well-educated and capable, but I hesitated to bother them with so small a commission.  I did not know Mr. Ritschard well enough to go to him either.  I had been told he was somewhat conceited and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Rippstein had come to see me several times recently, and seemed as fond of me as if I had been his brother.  He offered to do anything he could for me because I had carried one hundred dollars he wanted to send to his mother without charging him anything for it the first time I went to Switzerland.  "Lienhar," he said one day, "you are just like a brother to me."</P>
078.sgm:<P>He advised me not to buy a building lot.  After I purchased it, however, he promised to take over the agency for it, and look after my interests.  While I was fencing my building lot, or rather just  after the lumber for it arrived, one of my friends told me that the great war hero, who had fought so valiantly at the battle of Grenoble, had said some bitter things about me for having had the courage to sue his eldest son, when he refused to pay me what he owed me.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter was reported to have spoken these words, "I believe Mr. Zwicky was right when he said that nothing can be expected of a man born in a cow barn."  Mr. Zwicky was Sutter's bookkeeper.  I was well acquainted with him, having made many visits to Hock Farm.  He was a handsome man and appeared to be a shrewd business manager.  I have been told that he spoke four different languages and that Sutter was very proud of him.  Mr. Zwicky had a high opinion of himself, gave himself airs, and wore kid gloves at Hock Farm, just as if he had been in a large city.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I, too, was proud of my countryman when I first met him, although I knew little about his past life at that time, and could not then foresee how he would behave toward me in the future.  Later I was told that he had cheated his former partner in Switzerland.  If he behaved in the same way in Marysville--and I believe he did--he must have been one of the most despicable characters in all California.<ANCHOR ID="n18-1a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-1a">Omission of letter to Zwicky in folio 219.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>I met the old war veteran, Sutter, once or twice more, but we had very little to say to one another.  One day I saw him at Sacramento where he was in such a condition that his sons, August and Alphonse, assisted by two other men, had to take him away from the tent of a vulgar French woman so he would not miss the <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
078.sgm:<P>When the steamer was about to leave, the noble old gentleman had not appeared and finally had to be carried aboard.  I was amused to see the surprised look on the old man's face when his companions brought him aboard just as if he had been a prisoner.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The princely successor to the throne walked ahead; then came old Sutter shaking from head to foot.  Two men kept him from falling.  The noble gentleman behaved just like a naughty schoolboy caught in a bad act.  Mr. Alphonse brought up the rear.  He seemed embarrassed at the number of people watching the procession, and at their sly smiles.  Yet this was the same pious old gentleman who flew into such a rage when he heard that the conduct of his daughter and Mr. Engler was causing a scandal.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Another time, when I was to leave within a few days for San Francisco, I decided to go over to Eliza and say good-bye to my old friends.  Upon reaching Sutter's farm, the <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
078.sgm:<P>I was standing there, and he glanced my way and recognized me.  His embarrassment was amusing to see.  Perhaps he thought I might ask him why he had talked about me as he had, but I merely turned my back on him to show my slight respect for him, and let him know that I was not afraid of him.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Sutter was aware that I knew all about his past life, and half <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:suspected I would tell the truth about him if he made me angry.  He kept quiet, and got off the boat at Eliza.  I visited my friends there for the last time.  There were tears in Mr. Kamer's eyes.  I felt sorry for him, knowing how disappointed he was in California.  He had been a jovial, good-natured traveling companion, and often cheered me up when I felt blue.<ANCHOR ID="n18-2a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-2a">Brief omission in folio 220.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Having appointed Rippstein my agent--although he was the son of a city official he wrote very badly--I was finally ready to leave.  The steamer was about to depart for San Francisco; so I told my friends, including Mrs. Kamer, who wept copiously, farewell.</P>
078.sgm:<P>A shor, heavy-set Bernese by the name of Marz,<ANCHOR ID="n18-1b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-1b">There is no clue as to his identity.  The name is probably Marsh or Mark.  <HI REND="italics">Bancroft's Pioneer Register</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Thomen and the chemist Faller accompanied me to the steamer, <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
078.sgm:, and remained with me until the boat started.<ANCHOR ID="n18-3a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-3a">Omission of end of folio 220 and first page of folio 221.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>After bidding me a happy voyage, they departed, and for the second time I left the country I had lived in so long, perhaps for the last time.  The <HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
078.sgm:<P>I had sent my trunk to San Francisco in care of Rutte, Tissot &amp; Co.,<ANCHOR ID="n18-2b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm: where I made my headquarters for the fourteen days I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-2b">Rutte and Tissot are listed in Parker's City Directory for 1852 as importers located at 172 Montgomery Street.  For a time they were commission merchants with an office on Spring Street near California.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>San Francisco, or at least the best business section of it, had burned down for the second time and smoking debris could be seen everywhere.<ANCHOR ID="n18-3b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-3b">The great fire of May third and fourth.  More than twenty city blocks were burned, including many brick and iron structures believed to be fire proof.  The loss was heavy as the destruction covered most of the business area.  From one to two thousand buildings valued at some $2,000,000 were destroyed.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Strange things occurred both during and after the fire.  A story was told about two young men who had once been friends, until each one tried to acquire as much gold as possible, first by mining and then by business ventures.  Both of them had amassed considerable capital which they had invested in goods.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Finally one of them noticed that his friend did not speak to him as cordially as he had in the past, although he did not know why.  He suspected that his friend considered himself the wealthier man.  This made him angry, and he decided not to be so friendly, but to treat him with equal coolness.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The latter had lost everything he owned in the fire, with the exception of several bottles of English beer, which was practically worthless.  So he invited several men, whom he saw walking among the smoking debris, to come and help him drink it.  They were celebrating when the old friend appeared with a long face, stopped, and asked his former comrade if he had lost heavily.  "Yes, everything except this beer," he replied.  "Did you lose much in the fire?"</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Yes, all I had," he said.</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Well, I am glad," said the owner of the beer, "Come and have a drink with us."</P>
078.sgm:<P>"Why are you glad I have lost everything?"</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>"Well, I'll tell you.  When we were poor, we were good friends.  Apparently you have been lucky, and considered yourself richer than I and thought you were too good to speak to me.  The fire has reduced us to the same level again, and this is the first time you have spoken to me for a long while.  Suppose we drink to men who had been friends, but became indifferent through good luck, then regained their friendship through tragedy."</P>
078.sgm:<P>Not many gloomy faces were visible in the city, and the sounds of pounding and hammering were heard everywhere.  Wherever buildings had been burned down, scenes of intense activity were apparent.  Debris was being cleared away, and temporary shacks set up until substantial buildings could be erected.</P>
078.sgm:<P>While I was in San Francisco, I visited several of my friends, among them the Kuntze family.  Their younger son, to whom I had once taken a letter to Germany, accompanied me up and down the city's hilly streets.  He was a handsome, precicious boy, but there seemed to be some jealousy and envy which I did not like between him and his eldest brother, who had come with his parents to this country some time ago and so felt superior</P>
078.sgm:<P>At Kuntze's I also met the brewer, Neif.  He was the army deserter I had found starving in the forest, and fed and directed to a safe hiding place in the bushes.  I had not seen Neif in the meanwhile.  He asked me to go with him to his brewery, and drink all the beer I wanted.  My drinking did not diminish his stock to any great extent, however.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I decided to call on Kyburz, although we were not very close friends because I could not trust him.  He was not at home but his wife, children, and Indian girl, and a negro, called Fanny, were there.  His house stood on a hill that afforded a supurb panorama of the ships at anchor, the main section of the city, the bay, Yerba Buena Island, and the Contra Costa.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Mrs. Kyburz told me her husband had purchased a ship and was somewhere off the coast of Mexico or Central America, where he intended to buy coffee and fruits in the south, and bring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Not long after reaching San Francisco I was in the office of Rutte, Tissot &amp; Co. one day when an elderly, well-dressed woman entered.  She was an upper-class Swiss, and was out of funds, because her two sons had not arrived.  She was obliged to go to the Swiss consul, Mr. Rutte, to ask for help.  She received twenty dollars at the office; each of us contributed five.</P>
078.sgm:<P>On the North Beach there lived an old man from Appenzell called Sturzenegger,<ANCHOR ID="n18-4a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-4a">Herr Sturzenegger, a tailor at the fort, who had amassed a fortune estimated at half a million.  Lienhard calls him Hurzenwecker.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>One day I was walking through the streets and saw a short, heavy-set man near my building lot, who reminded me of one of my old overland comrades, Herman.<ANCHOR ID="n18-5a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-5a">Jacob Herman.  For a time he had made his home in the mission, and later lived on Montgomery Street where he operated a tailoring shop.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>I stopped for a moment to watch the trio, and discovered that I had not been mistaken.  The man was Herman.  He was more neatly dressed than the last time I saw him, which was just after he had fallen into some mud springs and had returned to camp, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:covered with dirt.  One of the <HI REND="italics">ladies</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Grunniger, the third partner of Rutte, Tissot and Company, took me to see a countryman called Kellesberger,<ANCHOR ID="n18-6a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-6a">B. Kellesberger lived at 172 Montgomery Street.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Mr. Kellesberger, the new associate of Rutte and Tissot, and I became acquainted the first morning after my arrival in San Francisco, and I was proud to know he was a Swiss.  He was a fine type of man, and seemed to be intelligent as well as handsome.  He rose to be a leader among our countrymen and whenever anything important took place among the Swiss colony, Mr. Kellesberger was invariably chosen to be their leader.  He was from Baden, on the Limmat, Canton of Aargau and had been in business in Rio de Janeiro for several years.  He had written an interesting sketch of his travels, which he asked me to deliver to a friend in Switzerland, and said I might read it during the voyage.</P>
078.sgm:<P>One morning, while I was sleeping in my woolen blankets, I was aroused by a strange procession.  The door of the room where Kellesberger, Rutte, and Tissot slept, opened, and they appeared clad only in shirts.  They carried lighted candles in their hands, and came over to my bed with a haughty and solemn expression, singing as they walked.  There they stopped, and Kellesberger delivered a pathetic speech in honor of my departure.</P>
078.sgm:<P>I got out of bed wearing only my underdrawers.  After this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>One day I ran into two brothers from Zurich in San Francisco.  One of them was a chemist, who had come to see me in Switzerland and asked for information about California.  These gentlemen, whose names I have now forgotten, had just arrived from the trip around Cape Horn.  They intended to leave immediately for the mines.</P>
078.sgm:<P>As I stood talking to the two brothers near one of the main gambling halls<ANCHOR ID="n18-7a">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-7a">Either the El Dorado or the Bella Union on Washington Street.  Other leading resorts of this period were the Rendezvous, the Verandah, the Parker House, the Aquila de Oro, and the elaborately-decorated Empire.  Stakes were often extremely high.  Ordinary games ranged from 50c to $5.00, but rich miners often lost or won from $1000 to $45,000 in a single game.  Gold dust, jewelry, and property were staked.  Roulette, rouge et noir, trente et quarente, and monte were popular.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>This particular gambling hall was like most of those in San Francisco except that it was more elaborate, and its oil paintings were almost life size.  The first picture at the right of the entrance showed Potiphar's wife attempting to embrace the handsome youth, Joseph, who had become frightened and escaped, leaving his coat.</P>
078.sgm:<P>There were no houses or halls either in Sacramento or San Francisco that provided a decent evening's entertainment, so everyone visited the gambling places to watch the fun.  One evening Grunniger and I entered this same house.  In addition to monte, many other games were going on.  We stopped near a roulette wheel to watch the players.  Grunniger was singularly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>He was lucky for a time, then began to lose.  He won again, then lost more heavily, and in a short time had thrown ten dollars away.  He tried to conceal his annoyance and chagrin, but kept on playing.  He seemed absorbed in the game.  I made several attempts to persuade him to go home with me; but he did not even reply.<ANCHOR ID="n18-4b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-4b">Sections of folio 222 describing more gambling episodes have been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Finally one morning I heard that the steamer had arrived.  I rowed out, and found the decks humming with activity, as passengers moved their luggage aboard.  I secured a stateroom toward the stern, one of two similarly located, that suited me.  The price of a first-class ticket to Panama was three hundred dollars, the same price I had paid before.  The second-class fare was one hundred and thirty dollars.  In view of the accommodations, the prices were outrageous.  Meat served in the first cabin was not only meager in quantity, but poor in quality.  Second class travelers were supplied with black coffee, zwiebach, salt pork, and beef.<ANCHOR ID="n18-5b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-5b">Brief omission at end of folio 222 and beginning of 223.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>Much as I had anticipated leaving California, I felt sad when the time of departure drew near.  I made several trips up Telegraph Hill, which afforded a magnificent view north, east and southeast across the bay toward Sausalito and the Golden Gate.  I recalled the years I had spent there, and the various experiences I had had.  Considering how few years I had passed in California, they had been many and varied.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Was I wise to desert a land that had given me all I possessed?  This thought often flashed through my mind.  My main complaint was that the laws were lax and social conditions were also unsound on the coast.  The last time I visited the hill I could not tear myself away.  My eyes scanned the beautiful bay with its irregular shoreline and many islands, again and again.  Far off in the distance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<illus entity="a078-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE LIENHARD HOME IN NAUVOO, ILLINOIS.  Courtesy of Miss Mary Lienhard.</P>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>While I was day dreaming the sounds of "The Last Rose of Summer" drifted through the air.  A wave of homesickness came over me.  Tears filled my eyes.  The past was behind me, and I wondered what the future would hold.  I tried to shake off these futile thoughts by leaving the hill and mixing with the crowds and confusion in the city below<ANCHOR ID="n18-6b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-6b">Omission, folio 223.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>The first of July, the day the ship was scheduled to sail, finally arrived.  I got up earlier than usual, and went to a barber and bathhouse where I had a shave and a warm bath to remove all traces of California soil.  The bath was extremely hot, and although I tried to cool it by letting in cold water, yet it was too warm for comfort.  It cost me only two dollars and fifty cents.  The price was reasonable for California.</P>
078.sgm:<P>At three o'clock in the afternoon I said goodbye to all my friends and, accompanied by Grunniger, started for the steamer, <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
078.sgm:<P>I neglected to mention that I had already sent five thousand dollars in gold through a forwarding agency to New York, which cost me three hundred dollars.  I had the gold shipped to Kook Fisher.<ANCHOR ID="n18-8">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-8">Apparently one of Lienhard's errors in spelling.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<P>My name had been written incorrectly, and, instead of Lienhard, was spelled Leinhard, the usual American way, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>Passengers began to flock aboard, and I was told that every cabin on the ship had been taken.  Major Lyons,<ANCHOR ID="n18-9">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-9">Lions in the MS.  Apparently the Colonel Lyons, whom Bayard Taylor met in California.  See his <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
078.sgm:<P>When the call "All aboard," was heard, the small boat that had brought the passengers to the steamer started back.  Anchor was hoisted, and the wheels began to move slowly, first forward, then back, until the ship's prow was headed in the right direction.  Our steamer moved cautiously past large and small sailing vessels lying at anchor, then increased its speed.</P>
078.sgm:<P>San Francisco faded from sight behind Telegraph Hill.  After passing the small round island on the right called Bird, or Alcatraz Island, we stopped at Sausalito to take on water and fresh beef.  After the supplies had been stowed away, the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
078.sgm:<P>Most of the passengers went down to their cabins, for the air was extremely cold.  I remained up on deck watching the ships pass the coastal range toward the east, as long as it was visible.  I had wrapped a woolen blanket around me, yet even with this precaution the air was very cool, and the foam blown across the deck by the wind soaked my clothes.</P>
078.sgm:<P>Then the moon rose.  Cloudless patches in the sky revealed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P>The moonlight was so bright that the cliff, where I had once sought shelter, was clearly visible.  After the steamer had passed it and was moving south again, I went down to my cabin and found my roommate sound asleep.  The weather continued pleasant, but cool, and we steamed steadily south.</P>
078.sgm:<P>The coast of California has a parched appearance during the dry season, and there was nothing to vary the monotony of the scenery along the coast as we touched at Santa Barbara, and San Pedro, the port of Los Angeles.  The afternoon after we left San Pedro, we passed the borderstone that marked the boundary between the United States and Mexico.</P>
078.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n18-7b">*</ANCHOR>
078.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-7b">The balance of the MS. describing Lienhard's voyage to Switzerland has been omitted.</NOTE>
078.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV TYPE="bib"><HEAD>BIBLIOGRAPHY</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>Bancroft, H. H., <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
078.sgm:, (7 vols., San Francisco, 1884).<LB>Bancroft, H. H., <HI REND="italics">Native Races</HI>
078.sgm: (5 vols., San Francisco, 1883).<LB>Bryant, Edwin J., <HI REND="italics">What I Saw in California</HI>
078.sgm: (Santa Ana, 1936).<LB>Burnett, Peter H., <HI REND="italics">Recollections and Opinions of an Old Pioneer</HI>
078.sgm: (New York, 1880).<LB>Clyman, James, <HI REND="italics">American Frontiersman</HI>
078.sgm:, 1792-1881 (San Francisco, 1928).<LB>Colton, Walter, <HI REND="italics">Three Years in California</HI>
078.sgm: (New York, 1850).<LB>Culver, J. Horace, <HI REND="italics">The Sacramento City Directory</HI>
078.sgm: (Sacramento, 1851).<LB><HI REND="italics">Das Burgdorfer Jahrbuch</HI>
078.sgm:, 1935, (Burgdorf, Switzerland, 1934).<LB>Davis, William Heath, <HI REND="italics">Seventy-five Years in California</HI>
078.sgm: (San Francisco, 1929).<LB>Delay, Peter J., <HI REND="italics">History of Yuba and Sutter Counties</HI>
078.sgm: (Los Angeles, 1924).<LB><HI REND="italics">Duflot de Mofras' Travels on the Pacific Coast</HI>
078.sgm:, Edited by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur (2 vols., Santa Ana, 1937).<LB>Emory, W. H., <HI REND="italics">Notes of a Military Reconnoissance</HI>
078.sgm: (Washington, 1848).<LB>Englehardt, Zephyrin, <HI REND="italics">Mission San Juan Bautista</HI>
078.sgm: (Santa Barbara, 1931).<LB><HI REND="italics">Fort Sutter Papers</HI>
078.sgm: (Ms. Huntington Library).<LB>Fre&acute;mont, John C., <HI REND="italics">Report of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains in the Year 1842, and to Oregon and North California in the Years 1843-44</HI>
078.sgm: (Washington, 1845).<LB>Gudde, E. G., "Memoirs of Theodor Cordua" in <HI REND="italics">Cal. Hist. Soc. Quarterly</HI>
078.sgm:, Vol. XII, No. 4, Dec., 1933.<LB>Gudde, E. G., <HI REND="italics">Sutter's Own Story</HI>
078.sgm: (New York, 1936).<LB>Harlan, Jacob Wright, <HI REND="italics">California, '46 to '88</HI>
078.sgm: (San Francisco, 1888).<LB>Hastings, Lansford W., <HI REND="italics">Emigrants' Guide to Oregon and California</HI>
078.sgm: (Cinn., 1845).<LB>Hittell, Theodore H., <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
078.sgm: (4 vols., San Francisco, 1898).<LB>Hittell, John S., <HI REND="italics">History of San Francisco</HI>
078.sgm: (San Francisco, 1878).<LB><HI REND="italics">Hutchings' Illustrated California Magazine</HI>
078.sgm:, 1857-1861.<LB>Kotzbue, Otto von, <HI REND="italics">New Voyage Round the World</HI>
078.sgm: (2 vols., London, 1830).<LB>Lienhard, Heinrich, <HI REND="italics">Californien unmittelbar vor und nach der Entdeckung des Goldes</HI>
078.sgm: (Zurich, 1898).<LB>McGlashan, C. F., <HI REND="italics">History of the Donner Party</HI>
078.sgm: (San Francisco, 1880).<LB>Nasatir, Abraham P., "The French Consulate in California" in <HI REND="italics">Cal. His. Soc. Quarterly</HI>
078.sgm:, Vols. XI-XIII, Sept. 1932 to Dec. 1934.<LB><HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:, (San Francisco, 1938).<LB>Nevins, Allan, <HI REND="italics">Fre&acute;mont</HI>
078.sgm: (2 vols., New York, 1928).<LB>Phelps, William D., <HI REND="italics">Fore and Aft</HI>
078.sgm:, (Boston, 1871).<LB>Phillips, Catherine Coffin, <HI REND="italics">Jessie Benton Fre&acute;mont</HI>
078.sgm: (San Francisco, 1935).<LB>Ramey, Earl, "The Beginnings of Marysville" in <HI REND="italics">Cal. Hist. Soc. Quarterly</HI>
078.sgm:, Vol. XIV, No. 3, Sept., 1935; Vol. XIV, No. 4, Dec. 1935; Vol. XV, No. 1, March, 1936.<LB>Revere, Joseph Warren, <HI REND="italics">A Tour of Duty in California</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sacramento County, History of</HI>
078.sgm:, (Oakland, 1880).<LB><HI REND="italics">Sacramento County, An Illustrated History of</HI>
078.sgm: (Chicago, 1890).<LB><HI REND="italics">San Francisco Directory for 1852-1853</HI>
078.sgm:, published by James M. Parker, (San Francisco, 1852).<LB>Schoonover, T. J., <HI REND="italics">Life and Times of John A. Sutter</HI>
078.sgm:, (Sacramento, 1895).<LB><HI REND="italics">Sutter County, History of</HI>
078.sgm: (Oakland, 1879).<LB>Sutter, John A., <HI REND="italics">Personal Reminiscences</HI>
078.sgm: (Ms. Bancroft Library).<LB>Sutter, John A., <HI REND="italics">Diary</HI>
078.sgm: in "San Francisco Argonaut," Jan. 26, Feb. 2, 9, 16, 1878.<LB>Taylor, Bayard, <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
078.sgm: (2 vols., London, 1850).<LB>Thornton, J. Quinn, <HI REND="italics">Oregon and California in</HI>
078.sgm: 1848, (2 vol., New York, 1849).<LB>Yates, John, <HI REND="italics">A Sketch of a Journey to the Sacramento Valley in '42</HI>
078.sgm: (Ms. Bancroft Library).<LB>Zollinger, J. P., <HI REND="italics">Sutter</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
078.sgm:<P>A<LB>Abeck, Francois, 101, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 1 and 2.<LB>Alcatraz (island), 12, 36, 106, 210, 274.<LB>Allgeier, Nicolaus, 64, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; 94, 98, 99, 205, 257.<LB>Almaden (mines), 17, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>Alvarado, Juan B., (governor), 6, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8 and 9; 30, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13; 78, 178, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>America, I, II, III, IV, 1 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 5, 64, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; 126, 194, 197, 203, 255.<LB>American, (river), VI, 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 48, 64, 67, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 71, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14; 76, 77, 88, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 113, 115, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 118, 119, 134, 137, 143, 144, 147, 163, 165, 167, 172, 175, 176, 179, 182, 183, 189, 191, 192, 204, 215, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 249, 253, 257.<LB>Angel (island), 11, 36, 105.<LB>Anza, Juan Bautista de, 14, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 24.<LB>Arapaho (Indians), 101.<LB>Arth (Switzerland), VIII.<LB>Atlantic (ocean), II, 192, 264.<LB>B<LB>Baden (Germany), 5, 117, 202.<LB>Bader, Christopher, 246, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 254, 255, 256, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7.<LB>Bancroft, H. H., his <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
078.sgm: cited and Alvarado mentioned in, 6, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; <HI REND="italics">Native Races</HI>
078.sgm:, cited, 7, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10; Hastings quoted in his <HI REND="italics">Cal</HI>
078.sgm:., 16, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; Grayson in, 27, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; Castro in, 30, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13; Stockton in, 31, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14; Vallejo in, 32, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; Kearny in 33, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 20; Marshall in, 67, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; Leidesdorff in, 69, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; Brannan in, 71, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13; Fort Ross in 93, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; Johns in, 109, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Barber, John, 69, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 73.<LB>Bartleson, John 11, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; 104, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 109, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Basel (Switzerlan), VIII, 5, 8, 155, 246, 254.<LB>Bates, Franklin (doctor), 71, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 76, 227, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 237, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 238.<LB>Bates, Henry, 237, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 238, 239.<LB>Bear Creek (California), V, VI, 6, 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 64, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; 114, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 214, 252, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 257.<LB>Bellaire --, 259.<LB>Benicia (town, California), 37, 103, 105.<LB>Bennitz, William, 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2.<LB>Berne (Switzerland), 192, 215, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6.<LB>Bidwell, John, XV, 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 104, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 4 and 5.<LB>Bilten (Switzerland), I, IX, XII.<LB>Bird Island. See <HI REND="italics">Alcatraz</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Bischoff, J. J., 259, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10.<LB>Blumer, Elsbeth (Mrs. Heinrich Lienhard), XII.<LB>Bodega (bay), 93, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Boga (Indian village), 96, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Boston (Massachusetts), IX, 165, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 169, 238.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>Brannan, Samuel, XV, 71, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 12 and 13; 161, 162, 261, 262.<LB>Bray, Edmund, 87, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 125, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 158, 248, 249.<LB>Bridger (fort), V, 13, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 22; 16.<LB>Bruner, Christian, 176, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3.<LB>Bryant, Edwin, <HI REND="italics">What I Saw in California</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 11, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; San Jose&acute; described in, 15, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 16, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; Grayson mentioned in, 27, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; Castro in, 30, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13; Walker, 32, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; Donners, 169, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Buchanan, James (president), 33, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 21.<LB>Buffalo (New York), XII.<LB>Burch, Charles H., 72, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 16; 76, 83, 88, 92, 94, 96, 98, 102, 116.<LB>Burgdorf (Switzerland), XVI, 5 also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 155.<LB>Burnett, Peter H., X., XV, 194, his <HI REND="italics">Recollections and Opinions of an Old Pioneer</HI>
078.sgm: cited, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 201, 206, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7.<LB>Burns, William, 62, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; 63, 95.<LB>Burr, Charles C., 8, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12.  See <HI REND="italics">Durr</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Bushumnes (Indians), 7, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10; 191, 199.<LB>Bynum, Lindley, XVI.<LB>C<LB><HI REND="italics">Cabildo</HI>
078.sgm: (San Francisco), 12, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 20; 36.<LB>Cadel, Peter, 202, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 203.<LB>Cahuenga (treaty of), VII.<LB>California, IV, V, VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XII, XIII, XIV, XV.  1, 2, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 3, 4, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 4 and 5; 6, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 8, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 10, 11, 14, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 24; 16, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 17, 21, 22, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 7 and 8; 25, 26, 28, 32, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 15 and 17; 33, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 20; 38, 47, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 4 and 6; 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 51, 52, 55, 56, 64, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; 69, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 71, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 13 and 14; 83, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 21; 93, 107, 123, 124, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 125, 130, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 145, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 153, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 1 and 2; 157, 172, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 173, 175, 178, 179, 191, 194, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 201, 203, 204, 206, 209, 212, 214, 217, 220, 224, 225, 226, 229, 232, 236, 244, 251, 253, 255, 257, 262, 264, 271, 272.<LB><HI REND="italics">California</HI>
078.sgm: (steamer), XII, 182, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 273, 274.<LB>Carquinez (strait), 37, 38, 105, 108.<LB>Carson, Christopher, 32, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 16.<LB>Castro, Jose&acute; (general), 30, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13.<LB>Chico (rancho), 104, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.  See also <HI REND="italics">Bidwell</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>City Hotel (Sacramento), 214, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4: 215, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 223.<LB>City Hotel (San Francisco), XI.<LB>Clark, William A., 12, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18.  See also <HI REND="italics">Clark's Point</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Clark's Point (San Francisco), 12, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; 106, 219.<LB>Clements, William, 39, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 40.<LB>Cologne (Germany), VIII.<LB>Coloma (town, California), 67, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 115, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 117, 118, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 181, 189, 190, 191.<LB>Colton, Walter, his <HI REND="italics">Three Years in California</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 29, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12.<LB><HI REND="italics">Congress</HI>
078.sgm: (U. S. warship), 31, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14.<LB>Conrad, Henry, 204, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 220, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 221.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>Cooke, Philip St. George, 71, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14.<LB>Cordua, Theodore, XV, 48, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8, 9, and 11; described 51-54; 55, 59, 92, 198, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 252.<LB>Cordua's Ranch, 47 <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 4 and 7; 48, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8, 9; 50, 58, 96.<LB>Cosumnes (river), 77, 102, 147, 157, 158, 165, 173, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 178, 179, 252, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6.<LB>Covillaud, Charles, XV, 47, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 4 and 5; 48, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 49, 50, 51, 55, 61, 65, 123, 125, 127, 214, 252, 253, 254.<LB>Crosby, E. O., 227, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3.<LB>Culver, J. Horace, his <HI REND="italics">Sacramento City Directory</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 215, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>Cushing--(judge), 250, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>Custer, John, 178, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 248, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 259.<LB>Customhouse.  See <HI REND="italics">Cabildo</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>D<LB><HI REND="italics">Dale</HI>
078.sgm: (U. S. warship), 29.<LB>Danielson, Ella, XVI.<LB><HI REND="italics">Das Burgdorfer Jahrbuch</HI>
078.sgm: cited, Sutter's family described in, 192, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 194, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 204, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 220, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 11 and 13; 244, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>Daylor, William, 77, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 19; 78, 173, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 194, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>Deawolf--, 201, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3.<LB>Deitchera (Indian village), 96, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 97.<LB>Delay, Peter J., his <HI REND="italics">History of Yuba and Sutter Counties</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 256, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7.<LB>Diehl, Valentine, IV, 9, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 107, 176, 179, 180, 182, 190, 195, 213.<LB>Diel.  See Diehl.<LB>Dolores (mission, San Francisco), 14, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 23; 35.<LB>Donner, George, 169, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Donner, Mrs. George, 169, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Donner (party), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 69, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>Dover (England), VIII.<LB>Dupont, Samuel F., 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2.<LB>Durr, Jacob, 8, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12; 9, 126, 172, 177, 178, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 179, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 181, 183, 185, 186, 195, 205, 256, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;.<LB>E<LB><HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
078.sgm: (river steamer), 213, 214, 216, 223.<LB>Eliza City (California), 220, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; founding of, 227-241; 243, 246, 259, 265, 266.<LB>Emmons, B., 227, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3.<LB>Emory, W. H., his <HI REND="italics">Notes of a Military Reconnoissance</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 33, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 20.<LB>Engelhardt, Zephyrin, his <HI REND="italics">Mission San Juan Bautista</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 23, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Engler, George David, 244, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 245, 246, 247, 248, 250, 251, 259, 265.<LB>Escholtz, --, 127, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Europe, VIII, XII, XV, 50, 211, 218, 225, 227, 233, 244, 251.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>F<LB>Fahnrich --, 230, 231, 234.<LB>Faller --, 231, 259, 266.<LB>Feather (river, California), VI, XI, pioneers on the, XV; 6, 9, 46, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 47, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 1 and 6; 48, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8 and 11; 50, 55, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 62, 63, 64, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; 94, 95, Indian villages on, 96, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 97, 98, 99, 113, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 135, 227, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 228, 231, 246, 248, 252, 255.<LB>Fifield, Ira, 69, also note 6; 87, 91, 115, 116, 117, 119.<LB>Forts.  See <HI REND="italics">Bridger, Hall, Laramie, Ross, Sutter's</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Foster, Sarah Murphy (Mrs. William), 213, 253.<LB>Foster, William M., XV, 47, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 51, 213, 252.<LB>Foster's Bar (town, California), 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7.<LB>France, I, 177, 254.<LB>Fre&acute;mont, Jessie (Mrs. John C.), 210, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Fre&acute;mont, John Charles, VII, XV, <HI REND="italics">Report of the Exploring Expedition in 1843-1844</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 22, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 31, 32, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 16, 17, and 18; taken prisoner, 33; also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 20 and 21; 34, 58, 76, 210.<LB>G<LB>Gallagher, John, 228, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 229.<LB>Gelston, Roland (captain), 233, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7, 240.<LB>Gillis, Mabel R., XVI.<LB>Goat (island), 12, 36.<LB><HI REND="italics">Golden Gate</HI>
078.sgm: (steamer), 266.<LB><HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
078.sgm: (river steamer), 247, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 248, 249, 258, 265.<LB>Graham House (hotel, San Francisco), 212, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 216, 217, 223.<LB>Grayson, Andrew J., 27, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 31.<LB>Grunniger --, 215, 270, 271, 273.<LB>Gudde, Erwin G., his <HI REND="italics">Sutter's Own Story</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 2, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; his <HI REND="italics">Memoirs of Theodor Cordua</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 48, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8 and 9.<LB>H<LB>Hall (fort), 13, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 22.<LB>Halo Chemuck (town, California), 104, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 109, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10.<LB>Hamilton, Harriett, XVI.<LB>Harlan, Jacob (captain), V, 9, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15.<LB>Hartman, Henry, 110, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 111.<LB>Hartwig, --, 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Hastings, Lanford W. (captain), V, 16, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 18, 20, 21, 22, 24, 87, 105, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 109, 151.<LB>Havre (France), I, III.<LB>Hensley, Samuel J. (major), 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2.<LB>Herman, Jacob, 269, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 270.<LB>Heyerman, A. (doctor), 165, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6.<LB>Highland (Illinois), III, IV, 79, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 20; 101, 106, 126.<LB>Hinckley, Ezra E., 134, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2.<LB>Hinkler.  See <HI REND="italics">Hinkley</HI>
078.sgm:.<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>Hittell, Theodore H., his <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 6, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; Micheltorena discussed in, 8, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11.<LB>Hock (Indians), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11.<LB>Hock (Indian village), 96, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Hock Farm (Feather River, California), XI, first settled, 47, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; Nye at, 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; Hocks at, 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 63, ferry to, 64, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; Lienhard gets horses from, 94-95, Indian census at, 98; 99, 114, 158, 193; Gustave Schlafli at, 194, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 204, 205, 208, 216, 223, 226, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; 227, 229; Lienhard visits, 243-244, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 246, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 248; Eliza Sutter married at, 250, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; pioneers at, 251, 252, 254, 255, 265.<LB>Hoen, Francis, 35, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 209, 217, 218.<LB>Holmes, Jonathan, 144, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 146, 147, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 148, 173, 174.<LB>Honcut (Indian village), 96 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Honcut (rancho), 109, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.  See also <HI REND="italics">Johns</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Honolulu (T.H.), 6, 62, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17.<LB>Hoppe, Jacob D., 9, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 104, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 109, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10.<LB>Huber, Henry, 70, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10; 125, 203.<LB>Hudson, Wilford, 69, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 91, 116, 117, 119.<LB>Huggenberger, --, 70, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 125, 127, 128, 159, 164, 165, 202, 203, 204, 224, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 253.<LB>Huggins, Dorothy C., XVI.<LB>Humboldt (river), V.<LB>I<LB>Illinois, III, IV.<LB>Independence (town, Missouri) 1 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 10, 45, 92, 118.<LB><HI REND="italics">Independence</HI>
078.sgm: (U. S. warship), 29, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12.<LB>Indians, IV, V, build Sutter's Fort, VI; XIV, 2, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 3, 6, 7, 8, gambling at fort, 10; 13, 20, 21, 27, at Monterey, 31; 32, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 16 and 17; 35, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 44, 46, 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 48, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 49, 50, 53, 54, 55, 58, 59, 61, 62, 63, 63, 64, at fort, 68; as workmen, 71, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 72 75, 76, 77, 78, wheat threshed by, 79; herding cattle by, 80; 88, 89, 90, 91, 95, Lienhard takes census of, 96-98; 99, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 113, 114, 115, 118, 120, 124, 125, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 126, 129, 130, 134, 137, 138, 139, 140, 141, 144, 145, 146, 147, 153, 156, 157, 159, 163, 165, 174, 175, 176, 177, 178, 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, 185, 186, 187, 189, 190, 191, 192, 199, 204, 205, 217, 225, 227, 243, 248, 250, 254, 257, 258.  See <HI REND="italics">also Arapaho, Bushumnes, Hock, Mokelumne, Olash, Sacramento, Seshum, Shoshone, Suisun, Walla Walla, Yuba</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>J<LB>Jersey City, (New Jersey), VIII.<LB>Johns --, 109, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 110, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;.<LB>Johnson, William, V, 47, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 5 and 6; 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 51, 251.<LB>Johnson's (rancho), 1 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 47 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 252, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>K<LB>Kadel.  See <HI REND="italics">Cadel</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Kamer, -- Mr. 204, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 212, 220, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 221, 224, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1, 264, 266.<LB>Kamer, -- Mrs. 204, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 212, 221, 250, 266.<LB>Kanaka Harry, 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 63, 76, 94, 95, 143.<LB>Kanakas, 6, 76, 77, 143, 144, 146, 147, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 174, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;.<LB>Kansas, V.<LB>Kearny, Stephen W., (colonel), 33, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 20; 64, 115, 127.<LB>Kellesberger, B, 270, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6.<LB>Kern, 32.<LB>Keseberg, Louis, 69, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 92, 93, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 102, 103, 105, 167, 168, 169, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 170.<LB>Keseberg, Philipine, (Mrs. Louis K.) 69, 103, 105, 167.<LB>Keyser, Phil W., 236, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Keyser, Sebastian, VI, 252, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6.<LB>Kilchberg (Switzerland), XII, XIII, XIV, 255, 258.<LB>Knobel --, 226, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 16.<LB>Konnock, 89, 129, 164, 181, 182, 185, 186, 187, 189.<LB>Kotzebue, Otto von, 52, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13.<LB>Kroeber, A. L., XVI.<LB>Kuntze, John C., 37, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 125, 268.<LB>Kyburz, Samuel E., 9, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13; 65, 67, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 72, 73, 74, 88, 91, 92, 94, 95, 96, 98, 99, 102, 114, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 268.<LB>Kyburz, -- (Mrs. Samuel K.), 68-69, 268, 269.<LB>L<LB>Lang, Charles, 165, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 7 and &ast;; 213.<LB>Laramie (fort), V, 178, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;.<LB>Lard, Fielding, 105, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6.<LB>Lasuen, Fermi&acute;n (father), 23, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Leidesdorff, William A., 69, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 85, 106, 107, 108, 145, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3.<LB>Lick, James, 130, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>Lienhard, Adam H., XIV.<LB>Lienhard, Heinrich, I - XVI, 1, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 1 and &ast;; reaches Sutter's Fort, 4, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; meets Sutter, 5-9; travels with Kyburz and Zins, 9, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 14 and 15; pioneering at Sutter's Fort, 10; trip down the Sacramento, 11-12; in San Francisco, 12-14; at San Jose&acute;, 16-21; illness, 24; at Monterey 25-31; return to San Francisco 35-36; trip to the fort, 34-46; employed at Mimal, 47; meets pioneers, 47-58; troubles with Indians, 58-59; visitors at Mimal, 59-62; leaves Mimal, 62-65; his relations with Sutter, 65-67; becomes overseer at Sutter's Fort, 67-73; reveals Sutter's traits, 74-79; describes threshing wheat at fort, 79-81; branding, 81-83; thievery at the fort, 89-91; trial by jury, 91-92; Sutter's Russian debt, 93-94; trip to Hock Farm, 94-95; taking the Indian census, 95-99; outlawry, 101-102; captain of river steamer, 102-110; starts Sutter's gardens, 110-115; gold discovery, 115-122; friends and visitors, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:123-128; leaves for mines, 129-141; locating new claims, 143-145; neighboring miners, 145-147; Sutter's vanity, 148-152; his irresponsibility, 153-154; Lienhard returns to fort, 158-162; founding of Sacramento, 162-163; breach between the Sutters, 163-164; raising sheep, 163-167; meets Keseberg, 167-170; gambling at the fort, 172-173; sheep thieves, 174-177; partnership with Durr, 177-183; Indian murders, 185-191; plans to leave for Switzerland, 193-199; relations with Huggenberger, 202-204; Sutter's timidity, 204-205; his troubles with his son, 206-208; leaves San Francisco, 209-210; return to San Francisco, 211-212; changes noted, 212-213; goes to Sacramento, 214-216; reunion of Sutter family, 216; Sacramento flood, 223; Huggenberger's death, 224-225; Slater, 225; founding of Eliza City, 227-232; business dealings with Sutter, Jr., 232-237; a river romance, 237-240; life at Hock Farm, 243-244; Engler and Eliza Sutter, 244-248; the Sutter family, 250-251; pioneer reminiscences, 251-254; the Bader murder, 254-256; Swiss reunion at Nicolaus, 259; Sacramento gambling halls, 259-262; last days in San Francisco, 266-275.<LB>Lienhard, John Henry, XIII.<LB>Lienhard, Mary C., XVI.<LB>Lienhard (family), I, II, III, IX, XIII.<LB>Lima (Peru), 130.<LB><HI REND="italics">Linda</HI>
078.sgm: (river steamer), 223, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 228, 230.<LB>Linda (town, California), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10.<LB>Liverpool (England), VIII, IX.<LB>London (England), VIII, IX.<LB>Los Angeles (California), VII, 25, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10; 28, 31, 58, 115, 124, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 178, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 275.<LB>Lyons (major), 274, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>M<LB>Maddox, William A. T. (captain), 25, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10; 27, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 29, 31.<LB>Madison (Wisconsin), XIII, 218.<LB>Magnuson, Mrs. Elmer J., XVI.<LB>Manawitte, 76, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; 77, 94, 143.<LB>Mare (island, California), 105.<LB>Mariposa (rancho), 31, 32.  See <HI REND="italics">also</HI>
078.sgm: Fre&acute;mont.<LB>Marshall, James W., 67, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 88, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 118, 119, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>Mary's River (Humboldt), 16, 56.<LB>Marysville (town, California) XI, XVI, pioneers living near, 47, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 1, 4, and 7; 48, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8 and 9; founding of, 51; 63, 204, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5, Kamers at, 220, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; Schatt near, 220, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12; 223, 230, 231, 233, 238, 240, Engler at, 244, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 247, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 250, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 252, 253, 264.<LB>Marz--, 266, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>Matt, James, 257, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Maxwell, William C., XVI.<LB>Mazatlan (Mexico), Sutter at, 6, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8 and 9; 251.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>McCoon, Perry, 153, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 156, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 157, 158, 178, 252.<LB>McDowell, James, 37, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 39-43, 46, 200, 201.<LB>McGlashan, C. F., his <HI REND="italics">History of Donner Party</HI>
078.sgm:, cited, 69, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>McKean, William, 29, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12.<LB>McKee, James, 91, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5, 102.<LB>McKinstry, George, 76, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; 91, 92.<LB>Memal.  See <HI REND="italics">Mimal</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Mexico, VI, 1 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 8, 26, 70, 178.<LB>Micheltorena, Manuel (governor), 2, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 8, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 178, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>Miller, Feltis, 144, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 146, 148, 173, 174.<LB>Miller, Francis, 135, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.  See also <HI REND="italics">Muller</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Mimal (Indian village), 47, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 1 and 2; 48 also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8 and 11; 51, 52, 56, 58, 59, 61, 62, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; 65, 83, 88, 95, 96, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 98, 105, 113, 158, 186, 227, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 252.<LB>Minneapolis (Minnesota), XIV, XV, XVI.<LB>Missions.  See <HI REND="italics">Dolores, San Jose&acute;, San Juan Bautista, Santa Clara</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Mississippi (river), III.<LB>Missouri (river), V.<LB>Moerenhout, Jacob, 153, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>Mokelumne (Indians), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11.<LB>Mokelumne (river, California), 91, 179.<LB>Monterey (bay), 23.<LB>Monterey (town, California), VII, 6, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8 and 9; 25, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: &ast; and 10; described, 26-29, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12; Spanish prisoners in, 30, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13; 31, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 32, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 69, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 78, 102, 105, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 118, 210, 275.<LB>Montezuma (town, California), 104, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 105, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 6 and 7; 109.<LB>Montgomery, John B., (captain), 13.<LB>Mormon Island (mining camp, California), 119, 129, 130, 131, 137, 141, 179, 181.<LB>Mormons, XV, 8, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12; 64, 69, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 6 and 7; 71, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 13 and 14; 78, 79, 91, 92, 119, 144, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 161, 197, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 222, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14; 261.<LB>Morris.  See <HI REND="italics">Norris</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Mouet, John, 102, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 116, 117.<LB>Muller, Franz, 135, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4, 136.  See also <HI REND="italics">Miller</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Muller, Thomas, 47, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3.<LB>Murphy, Mary (Mrs. Charles Covillaud), 47, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 5 and 6; 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 51, 214, 252, 253.<LB>Murphy, Sarah, (Mrs. William Foster), 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7.<LB>N<LB>Nasatir, Abraham P., his <HI REND="italics">French Consulate in California</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 153, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>Nauvoo (Illinois), XIII, XIV, 92.<LB>Nebraska, V.<LB>Negroff --, 129.<LB>Neif, Joseph, 217, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 268.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>Neuenschwander, Fritz, 204, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 220.<LB>Nevins, Allan, his <HI REND="italics">Fre&acute;mont</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 22, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>New Helvetia.  See <HI REND="italics">Sutter's Fort</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB><HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary</HI>
078.sgm:, cited, Smith mentioned in, 4, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; Kyburz, 9, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13; Lienhard 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 62, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; 67, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 93, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 124, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; Muller, 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; Fifield, 69, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; Huggenberger, 70, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; Bates, 71, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; Norris, 84, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 22; Comock, 89, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; Miller, 135, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; Holmes, 144, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>New Mecklenburg.  See <HI REND="italics">Cordua's Ranch</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>New Orleans (Louisiana), III, 22 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7.<LB>New York (city), VIII, IX, XII, 103, 124, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 182, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 222, 234, 235, 237, 245, 250, 255, 263, 266, 273.<LB>Niagara Falls, XII.<LB>Nicolaus (town, California), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 64, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; 246-248, 250, 254, 256-259.<LB>Norris, Samuel, 84, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 22, 91, 92, 164, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>Nueva Flandria (rancho California), 11, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17.  See also <HI REND="italics">Schwartz</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Nye, Harriet Pike, (Mrs. Michael C.), 213, 214.<LB>Nye, Michael C., XV, 48, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8 and 9; 51, 53, 54, 55, 56, 88, 158, 214, 252.<LB>O<LB>Oakland (California), 9, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14; 33, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 19; 107.<LB>Olash (Indians), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11.<LB>Oregon, IV, V, 5, 88, 126, 177, 178, 179, 189, 201, 257.<LB>Ostend (Belgium), VIII.<LB>P<LB>Pacific (ocean), 6, 11, 14, 15, 210.<LB>Pajara (river, California), 23.<LB>Panama (isthmus), VIII, IX, 222, 259.<LB><HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
078.sgm: (steamer), VIII, IX, 209, 210, 211, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 222, 234.<LB>Paris (France), XII, 170, 177.<LB>Peralta, Lui&acute;s, 33, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 19.<LB>Petaluma (rancho, California), 32, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15.  See also <HI REND="italics">Vallejo</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Phelps, William D., (captain), 32, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; 33.<LB>Philadelphia (Pennsylvania), VIII, 70, 237, 245.<LB>Phillips, Catherine Coffin, her <HI REND="italics">Jessie Benton Fre&acute;mont</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 210, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Pico, Pio (governor) 6, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Pike, Harriett (Mrs. Michael Nye), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Platte (river), V.<LB>Polk, James Knox, (president), VII.<LB><HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
078.sgm: (U. S. warship), 13, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 21 and &ast;; 15.<LB>Portsmouth Square (San Francisco) 12, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 20.<LB>Presidio (San Francisco), 14, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 24.<LB>Pujuni (Indians).  See <HI REND="italics">Bushumnes</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB><HI REND="italics">Punta del Embarcadero</HI>
078.sgm:.  See <HI REND="italics">Clark's Point</HI>
078.sgm:.<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>R<LB>Ramey, Earl, his <HI REND="italics">Beginnings of Marysville</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Reading, Pierson B., (major), 104, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 176, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>Rhine (river), VIII.<LB>Richer.  See <HI REND="italics">Neif</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Rippstein, Jacob, IV, 4, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 9, 21, 22, 24, 56, 106, 107, 126, 127, 176, 179, 180, 182, 190, 195, 203, 215, 216, 246, 248, 256, 259, 260, 263, 264, 266.<LB>Ritschard, John, 192, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 193, 204, 205, 208, 263.<LB>Rochester (New York), XII.<LB>Rocky (mountains), V, 13, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 22; 33, 56, 69, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 118, 178, 180, 186.<LB>Roether, Charles, 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 55, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 56, 117, 253.<LB>Rogue, (river, Oregon), 179, 187.<LB>Ross (fort, California), 69, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5, 93, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Rutte, --, 215, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 263, 266, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 269, 270.<LB>S<LB>Sacramento (city), X, 1 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 2, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 2 and 3; 9, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 13 and 14; 35, 49, 64, 65, 69, 70, 71, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13; 87, 103, founding of, 162-163; 179, 185, 192, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 194, 197, 200, 203, 208, 213, 214, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 215, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 5 and 6; 216, 217, 220, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10; 223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, 229, 233, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 234, 237, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 246, 247, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 249, 250, 251, 253, 258, 259, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10; 263, 265, 271.<LB>Sacramento (Indians), 7, 187, 191.  See also <HI REND="italics">Indians</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Sacramento (river), IV, VI, XVI, 2 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 6, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 7, 10, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 11, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 17 and &ast;; 37, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 38, 40, 41, 64, 76, 77, 87, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 103, 104, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 105, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 6 and 7; 110, 127, 135, 151, 216, 253.<LB>Sacramento (valley), 6, 56, 61, 72, 101, 102, 136, 176, 244, 273.<LB>St. Louis (Missouri), III, IV, V, 1, 9, 76.<LB>St. Paul (Minnesota), III.<LB>Salinas (valley), 24.<LB>Salt Lake (Utah), V.<LB>San Antonio (rancho, California), 33, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 19; 107, 110.  see also <HI REND="italics">Peralta</HI>
078.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Oakland</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>San Diego (California), VIII, 115, 127, 211, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>San Francisco (bay), 11, 15.<LB>San Francisco (California), VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, XII, XIV, 1 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 6, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 9, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 10, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; described 12, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 19; Lienhard visits 13-15; 16, 34, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 35, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 36, 37, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 47, 49, 65, 67, 69, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 70, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10; 72, 85, 88, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 93, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.  Lienhard meets friends in 106-107; 109, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 110, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; gold rush in, 120; 124, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 126, 127, 130, 158, 164, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 182, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 204, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; leaves from, for Europe, 208-211, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; return to, 213, 220, 223, 225, 232, 233, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:234, 235, 236, 238, 239, 249, 251, 263, 265, Lienhard's last days in, 266-274.<LB>San Gabriel (battle), VII.<LB>San Joaquin (river, California), 91, 101, 104.<LB>San Joaquin (valley), 6, 24, 72.<LB>San Jose&acute; (mission), 15, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>San Jose&acute; (town, California), 15, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 16, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 17, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 4 and 5; 19, 20, 21, 37, 105, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6.<LB>San Juan Bautista (mission), 23, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 24.<LB>San Pedro (California), VIII, 31, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14, 275.<LB>Santa Clara (mission, San Jose&acute;), 15, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 17, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>Savage, James D., 18, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 19, 22, 23, 24, 57, 58, 102, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2.<LB><HI REND="italics">Savannah</HI>
078.sgm: (U. S. warship), 31, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14.<LB>Schatt, Baltassar, 220, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12; 246.<LB>Schlafli, Gustave, 194, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 204, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 220, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13; 244, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>Schmidt, Jacob, 70, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Schulz, Herbert, XVI.<LB>Schutz, Jacob, IV.<LB>Schwartz, John L., 11, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; 44, 45, 46, 124, 125.<LB><HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
078.sgm: (river steamer), 220, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 10; 221, 223, 238, 239.<LB>Serra, Juni&acute;pero, 15, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>Seshum (Indians), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 96, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 227, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2.<LB>Shanghai Bend (Indian village), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11.<LB>Shoshone (Indians), 13, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 22; 20, 21,<LB>Shubrick, William B., 29, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12.<LB>Sicard, Theodore, VI, 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2.<LB>Sierra Nevadas, (California), V, 1, 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 69, 167, 168.<LB>Sinclair, John, 2, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 28, 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 79, 91, joins gold rush, 120; 167, 169, 172, 204.<LB>Sitka (Alaska), 5, 6, 93, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8.<LB>Slater, Richard, 197, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 225.<LB>Sloat, John D., 31, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14.<LB>Smith, Andrew J. (general), 222, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14.<LB>Smith, C. C., 71, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 12.<LB>Smith, James, 4, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 48, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 9 and 10; 56, 88, 114, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 158, 252.<LB>Smith, Joseph, 71.<LB>Smythe, William, 232, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 239.<LB>Snake (Indians).  See <HI REND="italics">Shoshone</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Sonoma (mountains, California), 15, 135, 273.<LB>Sonoma (town, California), VII, 11, 32, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 69, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 103, 105, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 108, 110, 111, 135, 198, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 202, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>Stanislaus (river, California), 91.<LB>Stearns, Abel, 178, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>Stevens, Elisha, 87, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2.<LB>Stevenson, Jonathan D., 124, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>Stockton, Robert F., VII, 31, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14; 33, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 20.<LB>Sturzenegger, John, 269, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>Suisun (Indians), 98, 227.<LB>Sutter, Alphonse, 154, 192, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 194, 195, 218, 219, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 251, 265.<LB>Sutter, Anna Dubeld (Mrs. John Augustus), IX, X, 5, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 154, 192, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 194, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 195, 212, 216, 219, 220, 251.<LB>Sutter, Anna Eliza, 192, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 194, 195, 212, 216, 220, 244, 245, 246, 247, 250, 265.<LB>Sutter, Emil, 154, 192, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 194, 195, 247, 251.<LB>Sutter (family), VIII, IX, X, XI, 211, 213, 214, 215, 219, 222, 235, 244, 250, 259, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;&ast;&ast;.<LB>Sutter, John Augustus (captain), IV, VI, VII, VIII, X, XI, XV, 2, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 2 and 3; 3, described, 4-9; 10, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 16; 22, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 28, 32, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 36, 39, 47, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 48, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8, 9, 10, and 11; 49, 52, 56, 59, 61, 62, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; 63, 64, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 18; 65, Lienhard employed by, at fort, 67-79; 83, 84, 85, founds Sutterville, 87; 88, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 89, 91, Lienhard becomes captain for, 92-93, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 94, 95, 97, 101, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 102, 103, 106, 107, 108, 110, 111, as partner of, at Mimal, 113-115; tells of gold discovery, 116-120; 122, 123, 124, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 128, 129, 130, 134, 137, 138, 139, 140, 141, 143, 144, 145, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 146, his mining camp, 147; his friends, 148-156; 157, 158, 159, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 160, 162, 163, 165, 166, 167, 173, 174, 176 also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 3 and 4; 178, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 181, 191, 192, 193, 194, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 195, 197, 198, 199, 200, 203, Lienhard travels with, 204-208; 213, 214, business ventures of, 215-216; reunion with family, 218-219; 220, 222, 223, 227, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 1 and 3; 228, 229, 233, 241, 243, 244, 245, 246, 247, 248, 250, 251, 252, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 254, 259, 263, 264, 265.<LB>Sutter, John Augustus, Jr., X, reaches Calif., 145, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 148, Lienhard meets, 158-159; names new city, 161-162; 163, 164, 165, 173, asks Lienhard to go to Switzerland, 192, 193; 194, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 195, 198, fights at fort, 198-200; 201, difficulties with father, 206-208; 213, 216, 223, 225, 226, 229, 233, buys Lienhard's property, 234-237; opposes sister's marriage, 245-247; 248, 249, 251, 256, 259, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 265.<LB>Sutter's Fort (California), IV, V, VI, VII, XIV, 1 also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 2, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; founding of, 7, 8,; Kyburz at, 9, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13; 36, 37, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 2 and 3; 39, 40, 46, 47, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 54, 61, 62, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; overseer at, 67, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 68, 69, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 70, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 71, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 11 and 14; 72, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 16; Sutter's life at, 74-76, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17; 77, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 19; thrashing wheat at, 79; branding cattle at, 80-81; 83, 87, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; thievery at, 89; coyotes at, 91; 99, 101, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 102, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 104, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 105, <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 5 and 6; 109, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9; 110, 113, 115, gold at 116-119; 121, 122, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 123, 125, 128, 129, 135, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; 145, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 150, 153, 157, 158, Lienhard's experiences with young Sutter at, 159-160; 163, 164, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 165, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 171, 172, 173, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>2; 176, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 3 and 4; 178, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 179, 192, 194, 197, 202, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4; with Sutter at, 205-206; 209, 213, 215, 246, 252, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6.<LB>Sutterville (town, California), 87, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 151, 161, 162, 202, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>Sutterville Mining Co., 151-152, 163.<LB>Swasey, William T., 35, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>Sweetwater (river), V.<LB>Switzerland, I, II, III, VIII, XII, XIV, 1 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 5, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7; 115, 145, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 155, 158, 166, 183, 192, 193, 195, 197, 198, 203, 206, 207, 215, 222, 225, 235, 250, 258, 259, 264, 269, 270, 271.<LB>T<LB>Telegraph Hill, (San Francisco), 12, 14, 70, 106, 210, 212, 219, 272, 274.<LB>Thomas --, 178.<LB>Thomen, Heinrich (Henry), IV, VI, 1, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1; 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 56, 125, 182, 190, 195, 215, 244, 246, 247, 248, 257, 259, 260, 263, 266.<LB>Thompson --, 172, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>Thompson, B. K., 91, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>Tissot --, 215, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 6; 263, 266, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2; 269, 270.<LB>Todd, William L., 35, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 1.<LB>U<LB>Umiker, --, 106, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 8; 107, 126, 127.<LB>United States, II, VI, soldiers, VII, 4, 10, 12, 13, 14, 29, 32, 33, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 21; 37, 50, 124, 162, 208, 222, 274, 275.<LB>V<LB>Vallejo, Mariano, (general), 32, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 69, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>Vernon (town, California), 227, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 237, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Verot, Joseph, VI.<LB>W<LB>Wagner, Henry R., XVI.<LB>Walker, Joseph R., 32, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 17.<LB>Walker, William, 219, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Walla Walla (Indians), 31, 35.<LB>Walter.  See <HI REND="italics">Wohler</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Ward, Andrew J., 71, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11.<LB>Warner, William H., 162, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>Weber, Charles M. (captain), 22, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7.<LB>Weiman --, 234, 235, 236.<LB>Wertlemann --, 259.<LB>Wheeler --, 257, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;.<LB>Willhardt, Louis, 135, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 136, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: &ast;; 137, 139.<LB>Willock, Delia, 238, 239, 240.<LB>Willock --, Mrs., 238, 239, 240.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<LB>Wimmer, Peter L., 118, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 4.<LB>Wisconsin, 9, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 13.<LB>Wittmer, Jacob, 72, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 15; 73, 115, 116, 117.<LB>Wohler, Herman, 198, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 2.<LB>Wurstenfeld --, 243, 244.<LB>Y<LB>Yates, John (captain), 10, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 16; 11, 35, 37, 38, 39, 40, 56, 59, 61.<LB>Yerba Buena.  See <HI REND="italics">San Francisco</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Yerba Buena (island), 36.  See also <HI REND="italics">Goat</HI>
078.sgm:.<LB>Yuba (county), 4, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>Yuba (Indian village), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 96, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 9.<LB>Yuba (river, California), 6, 48, also <HI REND="italics">notes</HI>
078.sgm: 8, 10, and 11; 49, 50, 52, 62, 63, 96, 127, 231, 252.<LB>Yuba (town, California), 48, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 11; 256, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 7.<LB>Z<LB>Zins, George, IV, 9, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 14; 126.<LB>Zollinger, J. P., his <HI REND="italics">Sutter</HI>
078.sgm: cited, 2 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 5, note 6; 145 <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 3; 178, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5; 194, <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm: 5.<LB>Zwicky --, 264, also <HI REND="italics">note</HI>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
078.sgm:<DIV><illus entity="a078-0009" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
078.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
078.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-079</TITLE>
079.sgm:<TITLE>California as I saw it; pencillings by the way of its gold and gold diggers, and incidents of travel by land and water. With five letters from the Isthmus by W.H. Hecox. Edited by Dale L. Morgan:  a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
079.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
079.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
079.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
079.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
079.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>60-9512</LCCN>
079.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
079.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 464955</COPYRIGHT>
079.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<illus entity="a079-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE ROAD</p><P>from</p><P>CHAGRES TO PANAMA</p><P>according to N. GARELLA, FALMAR and others</p><P>by</p><P>H. TIEDEMANN</p><P>CIVIL ENGINEER</p><P>Published by E. L. AUTENRIETH engr. on stone by</p><P>J SCHEDLER</p><P>NEW YORK</p><P>1851</p></CAPTION>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>California<LB>As I Saw It</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA</p><P>AS I SAW IT</p><P><HI REND="italics">Pencillings by the Way of its Gold and Gold Diggers</HI>
079.sgm:!</p><P><HI REND="italics">and Incidents of Travel by Land and Water</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">by</HI>
079.sgm: William M'Collum, M. D.</p><P><HI REND="italics">A returned Adventurer</HI>
079.sgm:</p><illus entity="a079-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO IN 1849, FROM THE HEAD OF CLAY-STREET.</p></CAPTION>
079.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">With Five Letters from the Isthmus</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">by</HI>
079.sgm: W. H. Hecox</p><P><HI REND="italics">Edited by</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P>Dale L. Morgan</p><P>THE TALISMAN PRESS</p><P>Los Gatos, California 1960</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>&copy; 1960 <HI REND="italics">by</HI>
079.sgm: THE TALISMAN PRESS</p><P><HI REND="italics">Library of Congress Card</HI>
079.sgm: 60-9512</p><P><HI REND="italics">NOTES ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P>1. "The <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: off Chagres" is from <HI REND="italics">Gleason's Pictorial Drawing Room Companion</HI>
079.sgm:, Boston, Aug. 30, 1851, vol. 1, p. 288, "Sketched for us by D. W. Nayson."  (Steamship in the foreground is <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:.  In background is the castle of San Lorenzo.)</p><P>2. "Deck of the Ship <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: at Sea," is from <HI REND="italics">Gleason's Pictorial Drawing Room Companion</HI>
079.sgm:, Boston, Aug. 2, 1851, vol. 1, p. 212, "Sketched for us on the spot by Mr. G. W. Naylor, a passenger, and..drawn by <HI REND="italics">Manning</HI>
079.sgm:."</p><P>3. "Map of the Isthmus of Panama" reproduced as the end-papers of this edition is from E. L. Autenrieth, <HI REND="italics">A Topographical Map of the Isthmus of Panama, together with a separate and enlarged map of the lines of travel, and a map of the city of Panama</HI>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Contents</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>INTRODUCTION<LB>By Dale L. Morgan<HSEP>9-78<LB>INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER<LB>By William S. McCollum<HSEP>81-82<LB>CHAPTER I<LB>From Lockport to Chagres<HSEP>83-87<LB>CHAPTER II<LB>From Chagres to Panama<HSEP>88-97<LB>CHAPTER III<LB>Experiences at Panama<HSEP>98-112<LB>CHAPTER IV<LB>Voyage to San Francisco<HSEP>113-120<LB>CHAPTER V<LB>San Francisco in July, 1849<HSEP>121-126<LB>CHAPTER VI<LB>The Southern Mines<HSEP>127-134<LB>CHAPTER VII<LB>Return Home via the Isthmus<HSEP>135-146<LB>CHAPTER VIII<LB>Home Recollections of California<HSEP>147-158<LB>CHAPTER IX<LB>Bradley's Recollections of San Francisco<HSEP>159-163<LB>CHAPTER X<LB>Cook's Recollections of the Northern Mines<HSEP>164-171<LB>William S. McCollum's <HI REND="italics">Appendix</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>172-175<LB>Five Letters Written From the Isthmus in 1849, by W. H. Hecox<HSEP>176-187<LB>Arrival of Vessels and Passengers at Chagres for California<HSEP>188-192<LB>Notes<HSEP>193-209<LB>Index<HSEP>210</p></DIV>
079.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>To my father's younger brothers, my own friends,</p><P>O. J. Morgan</p><P>Harold P. Morgan</p><P>Ralph W. Morgan</p><P>who contracted the California fever at an early age</p><P>and have never yet recovered</p><P>DALE L. MORGAN</p></DIV>
079.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<illus entity="a079-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Deck of the Ship <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Introduction</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>William S. McCollum's <HI REND="italics">California As I Saw It</HI>
079.sgm: is one of that enticing category of rare books, narratives of personal experience in the California Gold Rush published while the Gold Rush was still in progress.  California literature has swelled to such an extent that it has scarcely been appreciated how small and select is the class of works to which McCollum belongs.  Even including two doubtful titles, the number totals only sixteen.  Because some were printed in out-of-the-way places, occasionally a new title comes to light, but such works were usually printed in small editions, readily swallowed up by time, and increasingly long intervals separate each discovery.  It may be that the whole number will never grow beyond twenty-five, perhaps not beyond twenty.</p><P>Necessarily we disregard the letters and journals sent back to the States for publication in home-town newspapers.  These comprise a large and diffuse literature, of such proportions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:that there is no early prospect of its being brought under scholarly discipline.  Relatively few of the works that now concern us appeared from the presses of established book publishers.  In many instances, returned Forty-niners got out pamphlets at their own expense for local sale.  McCollum's narrative, it is true, issued not from a press in his home town, but from a nationally known publisher, George H. Derby &amp; Company, in nearby Buffalo, but it would seem that this was a matter of economy; probably he got a better price for the printing in Buffalo than he could obtain in Lockport.  At least, George H. Derby &amp; Company seems not to have publicized McCollum's pamphlet before or after its appearance, and the rarity of <HI REND="italics">California As I Saw It</HI>
079.sgm: suggests that it was printed for the author in a small edition.  (It was advertised for sale in a Lockport paper on April 24, 1850, obtainable at O. C. Wright's Book Store for two shillings, but I have found no notice of it in Buffalo papers.)  McCollum says that his purpose in publishing this account of his California experiences was primarily to spare himself the tiresome retelling of his adventures to interested inquirers, though doubtless he was not averse to recouping on his California outlay.  The publication of books nearly always displays traits of vanity, but it seems likely that McCollum points at the motivation of many other returned Californians who have left narratives of their experiences.</p><P>Most of these narratives have been reprinted, and it is surprising that a century--and a decade on top of that--should have intervened between the original publication of <HI REND="italics">California As I Saw It</HI>
079.sgm: and this new edition, particularly in view of its rarity.  Wright Howes, in his <HI REND="italics">U.S.-iana</HI>
079.sgm: (New York 1954), placed McCollum among the class of "superlatively rare books, almost unobtainable, worth $1000.00 and upwards," and, indeed, very few copies are known to exist.  A listing will bring others forth, but I have located copies only in the Bancroft Library, the California Historical Society library, the Library of Congress, the New York Public Library, the Yale University <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:Library, and the Buffalo Public Library, six in all.  Although the memory of McCollum has been preserved in his home town, the fact that he had once published a pamphlet describing his California adventures had sunk from sight there until I began the inquiries attendant on the present book.</p><P>Let us have a look at that narrowly delimited literature of which McCollum is so striking an example.  It is amusing that the first two personal narratives to be printed were both out-right frauds, and though we may leave them out of account, some notice should be taken of them before we go on to the genuine narratives.</p><P>Published by Joyce &amp; Company at New York late in December, 1848, was a 32-page pamphlet purporting to have been written in the main by "Henry I. Simpson, of the New York Volunteers," and having the title, <HI REND="italics">Three Weeks in the Gold Mines, or Adventures with the Gold Diggers of California in August, 1848</HI>
079.sgm:.  Suffice it to say, there was no Henry I. Simpson in the New York Regiment of Volunteers, and insofar as the narrative is factual, its information is drawn from the well-known report of Colonel R. B. Mason, August 17, 1848, which had accompanied President Polk's Message to Congress earlier in December.  The author of this work was perhaps the James Bithell who entered it for copyright.  He eked out the "personal narrative" with a "Description of California" and some "Advice to Emigrants, Ways to Get There"--the latter borrowed without credit from the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of December 13, 1848.</p><P>Less flagrant, in the sense that it was a true work of fiction, rather than an elementary plagiarism, was a work published in London early in 1849 as by "J. Tyrwhitt Brooks, M.D.", with the title, <HI REND="italics">Four Months among the Gold-Finders in California; Being the Diary of an Expedition from San Francisco to the Gold Districts</HI>
079.sgm:.  Purporting to have been sent from Monterey on October 11, 1848, to the author's brother in England, the narrative is a wonderfully ingratiating hoax got up in his salad days by the later well-known writer, Henry Vizetelly.  Having made effective use of Fre&acute;mont's report, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:Colonel Mason's official letter, and a few other sources, the Brooks work was accepted as a veracious record of personal experience, and not until Vizetelly published his autobiography in 1893 did the secret of the authorship, and the circumstances of its composition and publication, come out.<ANCHOR ID="ni-1">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: As soon as it appeared in London, the work was seized upon by publishers in other countries, and American, German, Dutch, French, and Swedish editions were printed.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-1">It was not until Douglas S. Watson publicized the facts in "Spurious Californiana."  California Historical Society <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
079.sgm:<P>A good many authors had the ill-luck to depart California too early to incorporate "I was there" chapters into their books, Edwin Bryant and J. Quinn Thornton being conspicuous examples; another is Lieutenant Joseph Warren Revere, whose <HI REND="italics">A Tour of Duty in California</HI>
079.sgm: was published in New York early in 1849 with the wry confession that at the date of his departure "the vast deposits of gold had not been discovered.  I had travelled over the richest placers a hundred times, but it had never occurred to me to wash the golden sands over which I travelled and upon which I often slept."</p><P>So it happens that the first separately printed record of personal experience in the Gold Rush is one outrageously unique.  This is a journal kept on board the <HI REND="italics">Henry Lee</HI>
079.sgm: during a voyage around the Horn, the printing of which was begun while the voyage was in progress, and completed in San Francisco harbor after arrival September 13, 1849.  On what authority I know not, the veteran bookman Wright Howes comments that although the work is usually listed under the name of the printer, J. L. Hall, the journal itself was written by George G. Webster.  The title is:  <HI REND="italics">Journal of the Hartford Union Mining and Trading Company.  Containing the Name, Residence and Occupation of each Member, with Incidents of the Voyage, &amp;c. &amp;c., printed by J. L. Hall, On board the Henry Lee, 1849</HI>
079.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Henry Lee</HI>
079.sgm:, purchased by this Connecticut company, sailed from New York <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:on February 17, twelve days after McCollum left there.  Despite all the delays McCollum experienced, he reached San Francisco nearly two-and-a-half months sooner; this is one reason, perhaps, why the present work is the only clear example of a `round-the-Horn narrative among the books I describe.  It is almost solely a record of the voyage, but has a concluding description of San Francisco ending on a note of foreboding: "The reports from the mines are so contradictory that no reliance can be placed in them.  But the majority that come down from the mines think that the first and second harvest is past."<ANCHOR ID="ni-2">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-2">Hall, who in early life used the name John Linville Hall, but later reversed it to Linville John Hall, got out a new edition of the journal in 1898 under the title, <HI REND="italics">Around the Horn in '49</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The first-published book to detail personal experiences in the mines came from the pen of Theodore T. Johnson, who had sailed from New York on February 5, 1849, as one of McCollum's fellow-passengers in the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:.  Johnson's <HI REND="italics">Sights in the Gold Region, and Scenes by the Way</HI>
079.sgm: (New York, Baker and Scribner, 278 pp.) appeared late in 1849, so well received that a second edition, revised and enlarged to 324 pages, was got out in 1850.  Further enlarged to 348 pages, and with a new title, <HI REND="italics">California and Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:, four more editions were printed at Philadelphia between 1851 and 1865; thus it is one of the more common narratives of the Gold Rush and has yet to be reprinted in modern format.<ANCHOR ID="ni-3">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Johnson was fortunate enough to have a ticket from Panama to San Francisco in the steamer <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:, so that unlike McCollum he wasted little time on the Isthmus and was inside the Golden Gate by April 1.  He made at once for the Northern Mines, and his account of conditions on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:the American River in mid-April, 1849, is remarkably interesting.  However, it took him barely a week to decide that "the prospective or actual rewards of gold digging in California, were too often totally and miserably inadequate to induce us to submit, not only to the discomforts of a life greater than those of our horses and dogs at home, but to association with vice in its worst forms, combined with a certainty of impaired health, and a corresponding risk to life itself."  Just 13 days after reaching Sacramento on his way to the mines, Johnson passed through again en route to San Francisco, and on May 1 he sailed for Panama on the first return voyage of the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:.  By June 26 he was back in Philadelphia, and when more tardy Forty-niners had not yet left home, he was already advancing upon his literary labors.  Despite the briefness of his stay in the diggings, Johnson wrote honestly and entertainingly of his experiences, and his book may be read with as much profit today as in the year it appeared.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-3">There was also an edition printed at Dublin in 1850.  The original edition of Johnson's book was reviewed in the Buffalo <HI REND="italics">Daily Courier</HI>
079.sgm: as early as November 9, 1849.  The second edition was noticed in the <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The only other book of 1849 reflecting personal experience in the Gold Rush is one of altogether different character.  F. P. Wierzbicki was a Polish physician, who had come out to California in the spring of 1847 as one of the New York Regiment.  His <HI REND="italics">California As It Is, and As It May be, or, A Guide to the Gold Region</HI>
079.sgm: was published at San Francisco by Washington Bartlett, two editions being printed, both dated 1849.  (The preface of the first is dated September 30, of the second December 30.)  This pamphlet has been called the first book in English printed in San Francisco, or for that matter, in California; and as a practical guide for gold seekers, it was the most sensible production of the year.  But it can scarcely be called a narrative of personal experience, little more being said of Wierzbicki's own adventures than that the author was warranted in publishing the work by his residence of several years in the country, together with his familiarity with its whole extent, "not excluding the Gold Regions in which he passed more than four months rambling over its mountains, and even crossing the Sierra Nevada to the verge of the great Western <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:Desert."<ANCHOR ID="ni-4">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-4">Copies of both editions of Wierzbicki are in the Bancroft Library.  His work was reprinted at Tarrytown, N.Y., in 1927 as <HI REND="italics">Magazine of History, Extra No. 126</HI>
079.sgm:<P>A larger number of narratives of personal experience accompanied McCollum's into print in 1850, besides one original map of note, that of William A. Jackson, which with an accompanying textual "appendix" is an excellent summary of developments in the California gold region but only by inference says anything of Jackson's own experiences.<ANCHOR ID="ni-5">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: The personal narratives fall into three categories: accounts by men already in California at the time of the gold discovery, the books of Buffum, Colton, and Ryan; accounts by men who reached California overland, of which Isham's is the only extant example; and narratives by men who traveled at least part of the way by sea, including Delavan, Kip, McCollum, McIlvaine, McNeil, Taylor, and Tyson.  To this slender list may possibly be added T. Butler King's report to the government on conditions in California; and in a class by itself, James Abbey's <HI REND="italics">California.  A Trip Across the Plains, in the Spring of 1850</HI>
079.sgm:, printed at New Albany, Indiana, late in 1850, remarkably early in imprint for an overland diary of its year.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-5">Jackson's <HI REND="italics">Map of the Mining District of California</HI>
079.sgm: was published in New York early in 1850, received with praise by the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
079.sgm: on April 17, 1850.  See the discussion of it in Carl I. Wheat, <HI REND="italics">Maps of the California Gold Region</HI>
079.sgm: (San Francisco, 1942), pp. 78-79, where it is also reproduced.  The rare "Appendix" which accompanied the map together with the map itself, was reprinted by T. W. Norris at Christmas, 1936.  The map has been reproduced in a number of works, notably in California Historical Society <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
079.sgm:, December, 1934, vol. 13, opp. p. 378, and again in the Society's edition of Jacques Antoine Moerenhout's <HI REND="italics">The Inside Story of the Gold Rush</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The Gold Rush proper ended in 1850, with a marked slackening of emigration to the Golden Shore in 1851, so narratives of personal experience published after 1850 are disregarded here.  That Bible of those who worship at the shrine of overland <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:travel, Henry R. Wagner and Charles L. Camp's <HI REND="italics">The Plains and the Rockies</HI>
079.sgm:, lists in its third edition of 1953 eight titles printed in 1851 reflecting the experiences of men who traveled overland to the diggings by different routes in 1849-1850, some of these so rare or recently found that despite their California interest they went unremarked by Carl I. Wheat in his centennial bibliography of 1949, <HI REND="italics">Books of the California Gold Rush</HI>
079.sgm:.  I pass by these eight works to note, only in passing, two more distinctively Californian titles.  The first is William Shaw's <HI REND="italics">Golden Dreams and Waking Realities</HI>
079.sgm:, printed in London in 1851 as the narrative of a young Englishman who voyaged to California in the <HI REND="italics">Mazeppa</HI>
079.sgm:, first ship to leave South Australia for the gold regions, which arrived at San Francisco about the beginning of September, 1849, delivered Shaw up to a brief and generally disagreeable stay in the Stanislaus Diggings, and toward the end of the year took him gladly back to Australia.  The second, printed in New York as one of the most down-to-earth narratives by an Argonaut, is Daniel B. Woods's <HI REND="italics">Sixteen Months at the Gold Diggings</HI>
079.sgm:.  A Philadelphian, Woods crossed Mexico from Tampico to San Blas, and first in the schooner <HI REND="italics">San Blasin&tilde;a</HI>
079.sgm: and then in the Scottish bark <HI REND="italics">Collooney</HI>
079.sgm: reached San Francisco June 25, 1849.  Afterward he mined on various branches of the American River, then moved to the Southern Mines and worked for an extended period at Hart's Bar before starting home on November 9, 1850.  Via the Isthmus, he got back to Philadelphia February 8, 1851.  Few others give so full an account of the drudgery of mining, pursued under conditions of "work or perish."</p><P>After the first confusion of the Gold Rush died away, regularization of travel by the Isthmus route having made it less of an adventure than it had been in 1849, narratives of travel to California via Panama vanished for a time from the literature.  These changed conditions are at least reflected by two little handbooks mentioned here as a matter of information.  <HI REND="italics">Gregory's Guide for California Travellers; via the Isthmus of Panama.  Containing All the Requisite Information Needed by Persons Taking this Route.  By Joseph W. Gregory, Proprietor</HI>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<HI REND="italics">of Gregory's California and New York Express</HI>
079.sgm:, published at New York in 1850 by Nafis &amp; Cornish, was got out by Gregory in the interests of his express company.  All but 9 of its 46 pages are given over to reprinting the text of the California State Constitution; and what might be described as the preface, dated San Francisco, January, 1850, appears as an advertisement which explains: "The Proprietor of this Express, in his late journey through the Gold Region of California, established Branch Offices at all the important points in the Mining Districts, where Express matter will be received and forwarded in time for the departure of every steamer from San Francisco, by <HI REND="italics">especial Messengers</HI>
079.sgm:, who go through to New York, via Panama and Chagres, without delay."  Gregory does say in his text how much personal pleasure the Isthmus route afforded him.<ANCHOR ID="ni-6">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: The second guide appeared in 1851: E. L. Autenrieth's <HI REND="italics">A Topographical Map of the Isthmus of Panama, Together with a separate and enlarged map of the lines of travel, and a map of the City of Panama</HI>
079.sgm:, published at New York by the well-known map publisher, J. H. Colton; this work, of which the accompanying "remarks" comprise 17 pages, has yielded the map of the Isthmus route by H. Tiedeman reproduced as the end papers of the present book.<ANCHOR ID="ni-7">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-6">Gregory's guide was advertised for sale in the New York <HI REND="italics">Daily Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:, March 13, 1850, and a notice appeared in the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-7">This map is largely though by no means exclusively indebted to a "Carte Topographique de la Partie de l' Isthme de Panama comprise entre Panama et Chagre&acute;s avec le Trace&acute; du Canal Maritime propose&acute; pour la Jonction de l'Oce&acute;an Atlantique et de l'Oce&acute;an Pacifique...dresse&acute;e en 1844 par Napoleon Garella Inge&acute;nieur en Chef au Corps Royal de Mines, 1845."  This may be found reproduced in 30th Congress, 2nd Session, <HI REND="italics">House Report 145</HI>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>This rapid survey of the literature of personal experience in the Gold Rush is pursued beyond 1851 only to mention the engrossing work of the "Returned Californian" (John M. Letts), <HI REND="italics">California Illustrated</HI>
079.sgm:, printed at New York in 1852, of primary interest here because the author reached Chagres in 1849 at almost the same time as McCollum, in the bark <HI REND="italics">Marietta</HI>
079.sgm: from New York, and was afterward a shipmate of McCollum's in the voyage of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: from Panama to San Francisco.</p><P>Coming back to the titles of 1850, we may take up first the early-on-the-scene accounts.  Much the best of the three presently known is E. Gould Buffum's <HI REND="italics">Six Months in the Gold Mines: From a Journal of Three Years' Residence in Upper and Lower California, in 1847-8-9</HI>
079.sgm:, of which Philadelphia and London editions were got out in 1850.<ANCHOR ID="ni-8">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Buffum originally went out to California in 1847 as a lieutenant in the New York Regiment, and after an extended period of military service, in September, 1848, was freed for adventures in the mines.  He sought gold on the Bear and Yuba rivers, Weber Creek, and the Middle and South Forks of the American River during the fall and winter of 1848-1849, and then went to San Francisco, where he became associated with the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
079.sgm:.  His book is observant, workmanlike, and not impossibly "literary" in tone, the curse of so much writing of this period; the scene he describes is that relatively uncrowded time before the Forty-niners arrived in force.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-8">A new edition, edited by John W. Caughey, was published at Los Angeles in 1959 by the Ward Ritchie Press.  Some letters by Buffum printed in contemporary newspapers have gone unremarked, notably one to his father written from Sutter's, November 4, 1848, printed in the New York <HI REND="italics">Daily Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:, April 11, 1849; one written from San Francisco, June 17, 1849, extracted in the same paper for August 6, 1849; and another from San Francisco, June 20, 1849, printed in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Another member of the New York Regiment, who sailed out to the Pacific with reinforcements a year after Buffum, was William Redmond Ryan.  His two-volume <HI REND="italics">Personal Adventures in Upper and Lower California, in 1848-9; with the Author's</HI>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Experience at the Mines</HI>
079.sgm:, was published in London with a preface bearing date of March 25, 1850.  (A Dutch translation, with superior plates, was published the same year.)  Ryan arrived at Monterey February 18, 1848, and soon was sent to Lower California, where he served until August.  Eventually discharged at Monterey, with some companions he made his way to the Southern Mines (it is chiefly the diggings on the Stanislaus he describes).  Like so many others, he soon "began to entertain strong misgivings as to whether the results obtained by such severe toil were at all commensurate with the sacrifices made in connexion with it," and turned back to Monterey.  In April, 1849, Ryan came up to San Francisco, and six months later, without revisiting the mines, returned east via the Isthmus.  His well-illustrated book is considerably more "literary" than Buffum's, not to its advantage.</p><P>The last of our three observers of 1848 is Walter Colton, who came to California in 1846 as a Navy chaplain, and remained as the first American alcalde of Monterey.  His <HI REND="italics">Three Years in California</HI>
079.sgm:, published in New York in the latter part of 1850, is an entertaining and enlightening book, including an account of a visit to the Southern Mines extending over a period of nearly two months in the fall of 1848.<ANCHOR ID="ni-9">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Colton did some gold-hunting, but he says that the miners looked upon him as "a sort of amateur gold-hunter, very much given to splitting rocks and digging in unproductive places," and he adds, "indeed, this was not far from the truth, for my main object was information, and a specimen of wild mountain life."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-9">Colton's <HI REND="italics">Three Years</HI>
079.sgm: ran through many editions, some under the title, <HI REND="italics">The Land of Gold</HI>
079.sgm:; it was also reprinted at Oakland in 1948 under the title, <HI REND="italics">The California Diary</HI>
079.sgm:.  A photofacsimile reproduction of the first edition, edited by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur for the Stanford University Press, 1949, includes an account of his arrival in California in 1846, taken from his <HI REND="italics">Deck and Port</HI>
079.sgm:, and some letters of 1846-1848 to his wife, first published in his posthumous <HI REND="italics">The Sea and the Sailor</HI>
079.sgm:.  Still uncollected is Colton's interesting California correspondence of 1847-1849 to the Philadelphia <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<P>Let us now take up the nine titles published in 1850 most nearly comparable to McCollum's, to which only Johnson is akin among the titles of 1849.  The first of these is basically a diary of an overland journey across South Pass: G. S.  <HI REND="italics">Isham's Guide to California and the Mines and Return by the Isthmus with a General Description of the Country.  Compiled from a Journal Kept by Him in a Journey to that Country in 1849 and 1850</HI>
079.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="ni-10">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Printed at New York, this is a slim 32-page work.  The last eight pages are devoted to a description of the diggings after Isham's arrival at Coloma, which was about August 12, as also of several California cities, the doubtful agricultural potential of the country, and the return home via the Isthmus.  (Isham left San Francisco December 9, 1849, on the bark <HI REND="italics">Paoli</HI>
079.sgm:, reached Panama by a 58-day voyage, sailed from Chagres on the <HI REND="italics">Alabama</HI>
079.sgm: February 19, and via New Orleans, Cincinnati, and Detroit reached his home at Lyons, Michigan, on March 17; his final note is dated at Lyons 13 days later.)</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-10">Only two copies of this <HI REND="italics">Guide</HI>
079.sgm:<P>James Delavan sought no personal celebrity; it is from the copyright notice that we infer him to have been the author of <HI REND="italics">Notes on California and the Placers: How to Get There, and What to Do Afterwards.  By One Who Has Been There</HI>
079.sgm:, printed at New York by H. Long &amp; Brother, a retail book firm.<ANCHOR ID="ni-11">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Delavan was much given to anecdotes in dialect dialogue, the omission of which would have materially improved his text while considerably reducing its 128 pages.  He sailed from New York on the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: February 1, 1849, and from Panama on the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: March 13, thus reaching San Francisco Bay April 1.  Nearly two weeks later he got off to Sacramento, and most of the spring and summer he occupied himself in prospecting and mining on various branches of the American River.  In the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:early autumn he visited Stockton on his way to what he dismisses as a "tedious peregrination over the southern mining region," but returned to San Francisco October 15 and took passage in the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: November 1.  Arriving at Panama on the 22nd, he boarded the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: at Chagres, and after transferring to the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
079.sgm: at Havana, arrived back in New York on December 9, 1849.  Rather astringent in his attitudes, Delavan recalls at the end of his narrative that he has had some hard things to say about the Panama route, but still it is the best that can be traveled.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-11">Delavan's pamphlet was reprinted at Oakland by Joseph A. Sullivan in 1956.  It was advertised as published "this day" in the New York <HI REND="italics">Daily Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Anonymously published was Leonard Kip's <HI REND="italics">California Sketches, with Recollections of the Gold Mines</HI>
079.sgm:, printed at Albany in 57 pages.<ANCHOR ID="ni-12">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: A prefatory notice, dated Albany, February, 1850, explains: "The Author of these Sketches being applied to by friends, who wished <HI REND="italics">reliable</HI>
079.sgm: information on California, hastily compiled these Recollections of the Country.  They were intended for one of the daily papers, but the friend to whom they were sent (in the absence of the author), has assumed the responsibility of publishing them in this form, for the benefit of those who are meditating a voyage to the El Dorado of the West."  This narrative begins on arrival in San Francisco in an unnamed vessel, tells of going on to Stockton in the schooner <HI REND="italics">Elizabeth</HI>
079.sgm:, and of a brief season of gold-digging in the "Mukelumme mines," ended by sickness, lack of provisions, general ill-success, and the preparations that would have to be made for winter mining.  Kip's is a generalized but realistic report on conditions in the mines at this time.  He returned to San Francisco, having been absent two months, and ends his narrative on this gloomy note: "Some years hence, and it is probable that this may be the picture.  A few farms may be scattered through the richer valleys of the country; a few incorporated companies, with heavy steam machinery, may be successfully pounding out the fine gold, which scarcely now repays the labor of mere unaided hands; a few little towns may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:be scattered here and there, the inhabitants of which will obtain a living by supplying the thinly settled country; and for the general supply, a few little brigs and schooners may ply up and down from Panama, to which city, and which alone, will roll the gigantic stream of the commerce of the Indies.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-12">Reprinted at Los Angeles by N. A. Kovach, 1946, with an introduction by Lyle H. Wright.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>William M'Ilvaine, Jr.'s <HI REND="italics">Sketches of Scenery and Notes of Personal Adventure, in California and Mexico.  Containing Sixteen Lithographic Plates</HI>
079.sgm:, was printed at Philadelphia in 42 pages.<ANCHOR ID="ni-13">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: As the title indicates, its superb plates are the primary reason it was published; the text, though interesting, is brief, and keyed to the views.  McIlvaine arrived in San Francisco on June 1, 1849, after a 60-day voyage from Callao in an unnamed vessel, and visited Sacramento, Stockton, and the Southern Mines before leaving San Francisco November 1 in the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:, the same ship taken by Delavan.  He left the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:, however, at Acapulco, crossing Mexico to Vera Cruz, and then going by steamer to Mobile, Alabama.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-13">Reprinted, with a foreword by Robert Glass Cleland, at the Grabhorn Press for the Book Club of California, 1951.  The plates appear to rather better advantage in the original than in the larger proportioned reprint.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>One of the most striking of these narratives of 1850, interesting as much for its revelation of a crusty individual as for its report on the insights into the Gold Rush, is <HI REND="italics">McNeils Travels in 1849, to, through and from the Gold Regions, in California</HI>
079.sgm:, a 40-page pamphlet printed at Columbus, Ohio.<ANCHOR ID="ni-14">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Samuel McNeil was a shoemaker who knew his own worth.  He set out from Lancaster, Ohio, on February 7, 1849, voyaged to New Orleans in the steamer <HI REND="italics">South America</HI>
079.sgm:, and took passage February 28 in the steamer <HI REND="italics">Maria Burt</HI>
079.sgm: for Chagres.  This vessel sprang a leak and returned to New Orleans, so he and his companions took the steamer <HI REND="italics">Globe</HI>
079.sgm: to Brazos, where they arrived March 4.  By way of Reynosa, Monterrey, Saltillo, Parras, and Durango, they made their way to Mazatlan.  Disgusted with his company, McNeil left them on May 10, taking passage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:in a Danish schooner, the <HI REND="italics">Joanna Analuffa</HI>
079.sgm:, which brought him to San Francisco May 30.  He went on at once to Sacramento and to Smiths Bar on the North Fork of the American River, but after spending some time there, came back to San Francisco.  Returning to the mines, he went to what he calls the "Stanish Lou" river, then worked his way north--"to the mines on the Macallemy river, and thence to Bear river to the Middle Fork of the American River, and then to Weaver's Creek, thence to the Horse Shoe Bar, on the North Fork of the American river, and to Juba river, thence to Feather river and to Trinity river."  Finding gold-digging too hard labor, he returned to Sacramento, where he traded for a time.  Finally having got together some $2,000, McNeil sailed from San Francisco in the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
079.sgm: September 2, reached Panama 20 days later, sailed from Chagres September 24 in the <HI REND="italics">Alabama</HI>
079.sgm:, arrived at New Orleans September 30, at Cincinnati October 12, and soon after was home again.  There is nothing in the least literary about McNeil's pamphlet; it is even more plain-spoken than McCollum's, and as full of commonsense observation about the country and the people seen.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-14">Reprinted in photofacsimile for Frederick W. Beinecke at the Yale University Press, Christmas, 1958.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>In marked contrast is that polished piece of professional travel literature, Bayard Taylor's <HI REND="italics">Eldorado, or, Adventures in the Path of Empire</HI>
079.sgm:, first published at New York in two volumes by George P. Putnam.<ANCHOR ID="ni-15">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Taylor, already a successful author, went out to California as a correspondent for the New York <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:, and his book is rewritten from the dispatches printed in that paper.  He left New York in the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: June 28, 1849, going via the Isthmus, and reached San Francisco in the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
079.sgm: on August 18.  His were extended and brilliantly described travels--south to San Jose, east to Stockton and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:Mokelumne Diggings, returning to San Francisco by the same route, to Monterey and back by land, thence by water to Sacramento, on to the Mokelumne Diggings again, and finally back to Sacramento and San Francisco.  The chief defect of his narrative is its point of view, that of a detached observer rather than that of a participant.  "I was strongly tempted," Taylor says at the time of his last visit to the Mokelumne, "to take hold of the pick and pan, and try my luck in the gulches for a week or two.  I had fully intended, on reaching California, to have personally tested the pleasure of gold-digging, as much for the sake of a thorough experience of life among the placers as from a sly hope of striking on a pocket full of big lumps.  The unexpected coming-on of the rainy season, made my time of too much account, besides adding greatly to the hardships of the business."  He departed from San Francisco in the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: January 1, leaving her at Mazatlan to cross Mexico to Vera Cruz and return finally to New York via Mobile on March 10, 1850.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-15">A modern edition, with a well-considered introduction by Robert Glass Cleland, was published at New York by Alfred A. Knopf, 1949; this edition includes the T. Butler King report appended to the original.  From a scholar's point of view, Taylor's contemporary dispatches to the <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:<P>James L. Tyson's <HI REND="italics">Diary of a Physician in California Being the Results of Actual Experience Including Notes of the Journey by Land and Water and Observations on the Climate, Soil, Resources of the Country, etc</HI>
079.sgm:., was published in New York by D. Appleton &amp; Company as a work of 92 pages.<ANCHOR ID="ni-16">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: (It was Appleton who had brought out the American edition of "J. Tyrwhitt Brooks, M.D.," and one of the advertisements in the Tyson volume is still valiantly promoting the Brooks narrative as the <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
079.sgm: account of actual experience in the mines.)  Tyson had sailed from Baltimore January 16, 1849, aboard the schooner <HI REND="italics">Sovereign</HI>
079.sgm:, bound for the Brazos, Vera Cruz, or some other handy port.  En route, the company decided for Chagres, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:which they reached on the evening of January 29, being towed across the bar by the river steamer <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm: next day.  Tyson started up the Chagres River on January 31 in the <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm:, but soon had to take up the journey by land. The date he reached Panama is not stated, but he engaged passage in the British bark <HI REND="italics">John Ritson</HI>
079.sgm: and sailed, he says, on February 16, reaching San Francisco on May 18 after a disagreeable voyage.  From San Francisco Tyson soon made for Sacramento and the Northern Mines.  Like Johnson, he has much of interest to say about the Oregonians then in the country.  For a time he ran a hospital, but finally came back to San Francisco, from which he sailed in the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: October 1.  Tyson arrived at Panama October 23, crossed the Isthmus via Cruces, and took passage in the <HI REND="italics">Empire City</HI>
079.sgm:, reaching New York on November 11, nine days from Chagres.  No biographical information about Tyson has appeared, and none is furnished by his narrative, other than that he started from Baltimore, and after reaching New York, hastened on to "the Monumental City."  His is a generally interesting account of experiences in the Gold Rush, the more notable in that he reached the Isthmus, if not quite in the first wave, at least ahead of the second, which bore along Delavan, Johnson, McCollum, and Letts.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-16">Reprinted at Oakland by Joseph A. Sullivan, 1955.  A review appeared in the Buffalo <HI REND="italics">Daily Courier</HI>
079.sgm:, April 6, 1850.  In the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, February 24, 1849, appears a letter from Chagres, January 31, written on board the schooner <HI REND="italics">Sovereign</HI>
079.sgm:, the vessel in which Tyson voyaged from Baltimore.  In the same paper, July 29, 1849, a letter by "R. M. G.," written from San Francisco, June 16, tells of the arrival of the <HI REND="italics">John Ritson</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Thomas Butler King's report to the Secretary of State, dated at Washington March 22, 1850, has been mentioned as the second of two doubtful additions to our list.  It was printed as a government document, and also as an appendix to Bayard Taylor's book, but is made bibliographically noteworthy by a 34-page separate printed at New York by William Gowans:  <HI REND="italics">California: The Wonder of the Age.</HI>
079.sgm: A book for Every One Going to or Having an Interest in that Golden Region; Being the Report of Thomas Butler King, United States Government Agent in and for California.<ANCHOR ID="ni-17">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: This report embodies only a very sketchy personal narrative.  Although he does not say so, King <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:sailed from New York in the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: on April 19 and reached San Francisco in the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
079.sgm: June 4.  During the summer he accompanied General Persifor F. Smith on a tour of the interior, returning on August 16 to fall ill four days later, as a result of which he was confined to his room more than two months.  King, who had been a Georgia congressman of distinction, and was later collector for the port of San Francisco and an unsuccessful candidate for the Senate, visited California not to hunt gold but as the personal adviser to President Taylor respecting conditions in California as they bore on Statehood.  His report is a full and interesting commentary on California as he had found it, touching many aspects of its life.  When he departed California on his return to Washington he does not say.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-17">A copy of this edition is in the Bancroft Library.  For further information see the main text, Notes 40, 53, and 54, and see footnote 15 above.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>The sole narrative by an 1850 emigrant printed early enough to demand inclusion in the present list is that of James Abbey, primarily a record of an overland journey from St. Joseph to Weaverville, with a few additional diary entries, August 20-September 9, 1850, describing initial impressions of gold-hunting in the vicinity of Weaverville, up to the time Abbey mailed his diary home.  The extensive title is:  <HI REND="italics">California.  A trip Across the Plains, in the Spring of 1850, Being a Daily Record of Incidents of the Trip Over the Plains, the Desert, and the Mountains, Sketches of the Country, Distances from Camp to Camp, etc., and Containing Valuable Information to Emigrants, as to Where They Will Find Wood, Water, and Grass at Almost Every Step of the Journey</HI>
079.sgm:, printed at New Albany, Indiana, as a 64-page pamphlet.<ANCHOR ID="ni-18">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-18">The Abbey diary has been twice reprinted, extracts by Seymour Dunbar in <HI REND="italics">History of Travel in America</HI>
079.sgm: (Indianapolis, 1915) pp. 1301-1318 and the whole by William Abbatt in <HI REND="italics">Magazine of History, Extra No. 183</HI>
079.sgm:<P>A seventeenth title to go with the sixteen enumerated I have noted in a recent work concerned with the diaries of 1849 kept on the South Pass route.<ANCHOR ID="ni-19">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: A copy has yet to be found.  All <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:that is known of it is a notice in the St. Louis <HI REND="italics">Missouri Republican</HI>
079.sgm:, February 21, 1850, concerning "A Book for Californians" published by Fisher &amp; Bennett of St. Louis, described as a "little book" comprised of "the journal of Maj. John Stemmons, of Rocheport, Mo., noted down in the shape of familiar letters to his friends, and embracing every incident connected with his trip to California, over the Plains, last year."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-19">See Dale L. Morgan, ed., <HI REND="italics">The Overland Diary of James A. Pritchard from Kentucky to California in 1849</HI>
079.sgm:<P>We may remark in passing, though not as a proper title for our list, Major Osborne Cross's report on the march of the Regiment of Mounted Riflemen to Oregon in 1849, printed as a government document and also separately at Philadelphia in 1850, which describes scenes of the Gold Rush overland across South Pass, if not of California and the diggings.<ANCHOR ID="ni-20">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-20">For an account of the various editions, see Wagner and Camp, <HI REND="italics">The Plains and the Rockies</HI>
079.sgm: (Columbus, Ohio, 1953), No. 181.  The Cross diary, with other documents, has been reprinted, edited by Raymond W. Settle, as <HI REND="italics">The March of the Mounted Riflemen</HI>
079.sgm:<P>So at length we come back to William S. McCollum's <HI REND="italics">California As I Saw It</HI>
079.sgm:, some of the kinships of which with the other narratives of 1849-1850 have been touched upon.  A facsimile of the title-page is reproduced herewith; the wrapper-title, enclosed within an ornamental border, is:  <HI REND="italics">California/As I Saw It./Pencillings by the Way/of its/Gold and Gold Digers!/and/Incidents of Travel/by Land and Water./By William M'Collum, M.D./A Returned Adventurer./Buffalo:/Published by George H. Derby &amp; Co./1850.</HI>
079.sgm: The copy in the Bancroft Library, the basis of the present edition, has covers of a golden hue and measures 22 x 14.5 cm., the pagination being iv, [5-72.  The original bears marks of haste in production, including numerous spelling and typographical errors, which so far as noted have been corrected in the present edition, but McCollum's spelling of personal and place names has been left as in the original, occasionally corrected in brackets.  The chapter titles, except for that of Chapter VIII, are mine, but the summary headings are his own.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>I have added a group of five letters written from the Isthmus by W. H. Hecox of Buffalo, originally printed in the Buffalo <HI REND="italics">Daily Courier</HI>
079.sgm:, March 8, 9, 29, and April 13 and 21, 1849.  Apart from their value as having been written by one who came from the same part of New York as McCollum, who traveled to the Isthmus in the same vessel, and was in Panama at the same time, they possess extraordinary interest as a record of experience by one who abandoned the journey to California after getting part-way there.  Neither diary nor separately published narrative by such a Forty-niner has ever come to view, and the experiences of most such men are recoverable only in the form of casual interviews printed in newspapers along the lines of their homeward journeys.  I have found no record of Hecox outside these letters, except that the <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
079.sgm: on February 8, 1849, immediately after the sailing of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: from New York, mentioned the names of W. H. Hecox and William Lovering, "of this city," among the passenger list.  His actual return to Buffalo seems to have gone unremarked by the <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
079.sgm:, and I am unable to say what became of him.</p><P>As a contribution to understanding of the Gold Rush via the Isthmus in 1849, I have also compiled a table of "Arrivals of Vessels and Passengers at Chagres for California," December 27, 1848-April 30, 1849, of which more is said hereafter.</p><P>ii</p><P>McCollum's pamphlet describes him as an M. D. and displays him as voluntarily or involuntarily practising in California.  It gives us, too, a considerable insight into the kind of person he was--disposed to adventure, even-tempered, alive to the world around him, fair-minded, possessed of a sense of humor and of a generous spirit, rather well-read, abundantly acquainted with the medical fads of his day--and shows his sense of long identity with the western New York community.  But it does not furnish much in the way of biographical information.  For details of his life I am indebted to Mr. Clarence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:O. Lewis, official Niagara County Historian, who has sent me obituary notices that appeared in Lockport papers at the time of his death in 1882.  They vary in minor details, and leave it uncertain whether he was born in 1807, but together they provide a very good picture of the man in his times.</p><P>One account says, in part:</p><P>"Dr. McCollum was of Scotch descent, born at Millerstown, Pa., in 1808 [i.e., 1807?], and came from there in early childhood, with his parents, to the town of Porter, Niagara county, N. Y.  The westernborder of the State, the <HI REND="italics">frontier</HI>
079.sgm:, as it was then called, had been but recently the theatre of military operations, and still felt the effects of these influences that war is so prone to leave in its wake: add to these the deprivations that a new and sparsely settled country imposes, the self-denial endured, the self-reliance that results, and we shall more clearly understand the surroundings of his youth and early manhood, and their influence in the development of his character.</p><P>"His education was obtained in the common and select schools of the day.  Working on the farm in summer, and attending school in winter, he acquired that physical and mental discipline which gave a sound mind in a sound body.</p><P>"He taught school prior to reading medicine, than which to a certain extent, there is no better preparation to a course of study.  As to preceptors, he had the advantage afforded by such men as Dr. Smith of Lewiston, Hyde of Youngstown, and Southworth of Lockport, men in their day of large practice and good reputation.  He attended lectures at Fairfield and Geneva Medical Colleges, but did not obtain a diploma, as he chose to save the money necessary to graduation to purchase books and instruments; taking out a license to practice, which granted equal privileges at far less expense.</p><P>"In after years he received an honorary degree of M. D., conferred by the Buffalo Medical College.  He was a close observer of men, and had an almost intuitive perception of the character and ruling motives that governed those with whom he associated....</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>Another account, in the Lockport <HI REND="italics">Daily Journal</HI>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:have become collector's items.  Later he served for a time in the customs office at Niagara Falls, but his health failing, he moved to Riverside, California, where on January 15, 1877, he shot himself.  To him and his wife Malvina were born two sons, Charles and George.</p><P>Charles J. Fox, whom McCollum credits for an account of Panama "contained in sketches of `California Experience,' which he has published in the <HI REND="italics">Niagara Cataract</HI>
079.sgm:, of which he is the editor," left an obituary printed in a Lockport newspaper of October 8, 1859:</p><P>"We are called upon to record the sudden death of Charles J. Fox, long and familiarly known to the people of this place and county.  He expired at his residence in Buffalo at 2 o'clock on Tuesday morning last.  His disease was Congestion of the Lungs.</p><P>"Mr. Fox, we believe, was born in Lockport as we know that he was educated and lived here until a few years since.  At an early age he commenced the study of law, but in 1847, before entering upon its practice, he became one of the Proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Niagara Cataract</HI>
079.sgm:, a free soil democratic paper, with which he remained connected until it was discontinued [1851].  At the breaking out of the gold fever in California he went there and remained two years.  In 1853 we believe, he became proprietor of the <HI REND="italics">Niagara Democrat</HI>
079.sgm: [a Lockport weekly began at Lewiston in 1821], and in 1852 he was appointed [Erie] Canal Collector at this place which office he held for two years.  The duties of the various positions he discharged with credit.  His memory will be cherished by his old acquaintance as that of a warm friend and genial companion."</p><P>Further data on the four "co-authors" of <HI REND="italics">California As I Saw It</HI>
079.sgm: come from the original census returns in the National Archives at Washington, D. C.  During July, 1850, the census-taker from Lockport, Niagara County, visited all four men.  Elliott W. Cook on July 9 was described as aged 32, a gunsmith, and born in Rhode Island.  His wife "Melvina," 26, and sons Charles, 7, and George, 3, all were recorded as born <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:in New York.  Charles Fox on July 11 was set down as 25 years of age, a printer, and like his wife Charlott, 22, born in New York.  Harriet, 3, was noted to have been born in Pennsylvania, and Charles, 1, in New York.  Two girls lived in the family, Lucy Carpenter, 11, and Betsey Brunet, 12, both of New York birth.  Somewhat surprisingly, William McCollum on July 19 was listed as dwelling in an apparent boarding establishment, the household of William C. House, Gent.  McCollum's age was given as 42, which would go to confirm the year of his birth as 1807.  His profession was stated as physician, and his birthplace New York (not Pennsylvania, as stated in his obituary); he was noted to possess $800 in real estate.  The otherwise elusive Lyman Bradley was enumerated on July 26, the schedule giving his age as 43, a painter, born in New York, and having $1500 in real estate.  In his household lived Laura Bradley, doubtless his wife, aged 33, born in New Hampshire; and Hannah Stevens, aged 76, possibly his mother-in-law, born in "M" (Massachusetts?).  McCollum was not recorded at Lockport ten years later, when the 1860 census was made.</p><P>McCollum himself records in the opening pages of his narrative the names of the twenty men comprising the Lockport company with which he set out, one of whom died at Panama, while two others turned back.  Another of the company, as seen in Note 42, <HI REND="italics">post</HI>
079.sgm:, ultimately settled at San Diego.  But we shall give attention here only to the acknowledged head of the company, Ezekiel Jewett, who attained to a celebrity beyond any of his Lockport companions of 1849.  The biographical sketch that follows is drawn mostly from <HI REND="italics">Remarks of Robert E. C. Stearns on the Death of Colonel Ezekiel Jewett, before the California Academy of Sciences, June 18th, 1877</HI>
079.sgm:, of which a copy is in the Bancroft Library, with supplementary data from Mr. Lewis.</p><P>Jewett was born in Rindge, New Hampshire, October 16, 1791, the son of a physician.  On the outbreak of the War of 1812, at the age of 19, he was commissioned an Ensign in the 11th Regiment of U. S. Infantry, and served in the brigade of General Winfield Scott, seeing action at Lundy's Lane, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
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079.sgm:Barbara, where, on the 18th of last May, after a brief illness, he closed his eyes forever, at the ripe age of eighty-six years.</p><P>"Imperfect as is this rapid sketch, it is sufficient to give you some idea of the career of this remarkable man, of his wonderfully active and prolonged life, which exhibited, nearly to its last moments, indomitable energy and perseverance.  Intellectually of quick perceptions, eager in the pursuit of knowledge, and enthusiastic in his love for and appreciation of nature; actuated by a high sense of honor, and of the most rigid integrity; he was also a man of generous sympathies and impulses.  Of exceeding modesty, flattery was distasteful to him, and he was sensitive to the publication of anything in his praise.  While courteous to all, he was critical in the selection of his friends, with whom he was exceedingly companionable, and by whom he was greatly beloved.</p><P>Thus a fellow scientist in eulogy, and if he had nothing to say of Ezekiel Jewett's early involvement with William Morgan and Masonry, leaving that memory to be preserved in western New York, it is with only a trace of irony we observe that there were no more William Morgans in Colonel Jewett's life.</p><P>iii</p><P>Grave symptoms of gold fever had begun to manifest themselves in the United States before the end of November, 1848, as stories from California and from returned travelers gave cumulative evidence of the truth of the gold discovery.  As early as December 2, a writer in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, commenting on the immense quantity of all kinds of merchandise in process of being shipped "to the new El Dorado--California," warned against "the influence of the now prevailing gold mania."  Two days later the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: had news from New Orleans that some parties were trying to make efforts to muster enough to purchase the steamer <HI REND="italics">McKim</HI>
079.sgm: for the purpose of going to California, and a Boston report had a company of 100 men about embarking for the same destination.</p><P>But general infection waited upon President Polk, and his Message to Congress on the State of the Union, December 5, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:1849.  The President reported the accounts of the abundance of gold in California to be "of such an extraordinary character as would scarcely command belief were they not corroborated by the authentic reports of officers in the public service, who have visited the mineral district and derived the facts which they detail from personal observation....  The explorations already made warrant the belief that the supply is very large, and that gold is found at various places in an extensive district of country."  All other pursuits but that of searching for the precious metals, he added, were abandoned:  "Nearly the whole of the male population of the country have gone to the gold districts.  Ships arriving on the coast are deserted by their crews, and their voyages suspended for want of sailors."</p><P>The gold fever that had burned in isolated localities now flared up as an epidemic.  Every rootless spirit, and many there were, with the Mexican War barely concluded, was aflame to be off for California; and a good many apparently rooted spirits felt the same way.  At this season, December, 1848, the overland routes were winterbound.  Any who proposed to leave at once must go by sea, accepting the weary five-month passage around the Horn in a far from favorable season, or going by ship to a port along the Gulf of Mexico or the Caribbean Sea so as to cross the continent in a southern latitude.</p><P>The newspapers were full of advice at once, and sound advice, at that.  The New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of December 13, 1848, discussed the different routes to California, coming to the conclusion that only two were feasible with any degree of comfort, economy, or safety.  The safest route, and probably the cheapest, was that via Cape Horn; ships would take passengers from New York at from $300 to $100, depending on the circumstances and accommodations offered.  Moreover, the only chance to forward or carry goods to California was by ships bound direct, and now that there were so many up, freights were not very expensive.  But the route via the Isthmus was given primary attention:</p><P>"The Chagres steamer leaves New York monthly, as also <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:the British West India Mail Steamers, and they reach Chagres on the Atlantic side of the Isthmus in about ten days.  Canoes are here employed, and passengers carried thirty miles up, when they are transferred to the backs of mules, and in this way reach Panama in two days, where they will take either a steamer or sailing vessel for San Francisco.  The steamers belonging to Aspinwall's line leave Panama on the first of every month, when fairly organized; but for the present they are advertised to leave January 5, February 15, and the 1st of March.  After this, they take their regular monthly departure.  The distance by this conveyance from New York to San Francisco, is about 5,500 miles, thus set down:--From New York to Chagres, 2000 miles, Chagres to Panama, 50, Panama to San Francisco, on the arc of a great circle, 3,440.  The whole distance will occupy from 25 to 30 days.  The cost of crossing in this way the isthmus from the best sources of information, will not exceed $20, being performed, as we have already stated, by canoes and mule carriage.  The former will soon give way to the steamer <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm:, which has been purchased to run on the Chagres river.  Passengers are in the habit of crossing the isthmus, who take the British line of steamers down the west coast of South America, which seems to establish the feasibility of its being without difficulty crossed.  Passengers should provide themselves with the means to guard against contingencies, as they may arise, from the non-arrival of the steamers at Panama.  The greatest difficulty in going by this route will consist in a large amount of baggage; nothing over 150 pounds weight can be carried with safety.  The price of passage on our steamers from New York to California, by the above route, is $420.  There is a medium class of passengers taken for considerably less, or sailing vessels leaving here for Chagres will take passengers for much less.  And there is also a third class passage from New York, by way of Panama, in the <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm: and Aspinwall's steamers, by which the whole cost is less than $200, viz: $65 to Chagres, $20 to Panama, $100 to San Francisco."  It was also noted that the British steamers, which left New York on the 13th of each month, touched at Chagres.  "Their price <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:to that point is ten dollars less than in our own steamers."</p><P>It so happened that the events of 1846 which had made the United States a continental nation, the settlement of the Oregon question and the conquest of California and New Mexico, had forced the government to improve communications between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts.  In March, 1847, Congress authorized the setting up of a fortnightly mail service by steamer between New York and New Orleans (touching en route at Charleston, Savannah, and Havana), with a branch line to run between Havana and Chagres, right of passage across the Isthmus having meanwhile been obtained from Nueva Granada (Colombia).  The contract for this ocean mail was awarded to the United States Mail Steamship Company, which began construction of two large ships, the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
079.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Georgia</HI>
079.sgm:.  Owing to their size and other difficulties, the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
079.sgm: was not put into service until September, 1849, and the <HI REND="italics">Georgia</HI>
079.sgm: not until January, 1850.  To fill the gap until the large steamers became available, the smaller <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: was acquired.  A new vessel, she sailed on her first voyage to Chagres via New Orleans on December 1, 1848.  This was just four days before President Polk's Message touched off the Gold Rush, and she carried only 20 passengers--mostly government officials--on leaving New York.  (Another 173 piled aboard before she left New Orleans on December 18, and their arrival at Chagres on December 27 inaugurated the Gold Rush across the Isthmus.)  When eventually all the steamers of the United States company were in operation, the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
079.sgm: ran between New York and New Orleans, the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: plied between Havana and Chagres, and the <HI REND="italics">Georgia</HI>
079.sgm: operated between New York and Chagres direct, with a stop at Havana for coaling.<ANCHOR ID="ni-21">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-21">I have drawn many details concerning the mail steamers, on either side of the Isthmus, from John Haskell Kemble, <HI REND="italics">The Panama Route, 1848-1869</HI>
079.sgm: (Berkeley and Los Angeles, 1943), supplemented primarily by reference to the 1848-1849 files of the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:.  See also Ernest A. Wiltsee, <HI REND="italics">Gold Rush Steamers [of the Pacific]</HI>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>An opposition line, without mail contracts, was brought into being by the Gold Rush.  In its issue of December 13, 1848, the same which handed out the advice on routes to California, the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: observed that no les than 15 vessels in that city were then preparing to leave for California, and predicted that before the end of the week, the number would swell to at least 20; at Baltimore there were four, at Boston three, at Philadelphia 11, and Newburyport and New Orleans had their ratio.  "In addition to these there are ten vessels preparing to leave for Chagres, with passengers, among which are the steamers <HI REND="italics">Isthmus</HI>
079.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm:.  A number of young men waited upon Capt. Stoddard, of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, and endeavored to persuade him to extend his course as far as Chagres.  If her owners should make such an arrangement, we doubt not but that her splendid cabins would receive the full complement."</p><P>For a fact, the very next day J. Howard and Son advertised the sailing of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: for Chagres direct on Saturday, the 23rd, saying that passengers by this steamer might expect to arrive at Chagres in time to meet the Pacific Mail Company's steamer of January 5 at Panama.  She would stop at New Orleans on her return voyage.  The <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: was a larger and faster ship than the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, built in 1847 for the New York-New Orleans run.  She reached Chagres January 2 with her first 180 passengers, the first of six such voyages completed by mid-summer of 1849, and a happy augury for her owners.  In July, 1849, she was joined by the <HI REND="italics">Empire City</HI>
079.sgm:, a yet finer vessel, and the two ships together became popularly known as the "Empire City Line."  It was in the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, on her second voyage, that McCollum reached Chagres, though he came home eventually in the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
079.sgm:.</p><P>While these developments had been shaping on the Atlantic side, the government had taken steps to put a steamer mail in operation between Panama and Oregon.  (San Francisco was made the terminus later.)  A contract was given to a firm incorporated as the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, in which William Henry Aspinwall, his uncle Gardiner Greene Howland, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:Henry Chauncey, and Edwin Bartlett were the principal figures.  They built three nearly identical steamers, the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
079.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:, first to be completed, sailed from New York via the Straits of Magellan on October 6, 1848, and the knowledge that she could be expected at Panama early in January entered largely into the calculations of those who first sailed for the Isthmus.  The <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
079.sgm: left New York the same day as the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, December 1, but engine trouble forced her back to port under sail, and she did not get off finally until February 17, 1849.  The <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: sailed from New York on December 9, 1848, and was expected at Panama in mid-February.  The majority of those who left New York in late January and February hoped for a passage from Panama up to San Francisco, if not by the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:, then by the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:, returning to Panama after completing her first voyage.</p><P>All the same, there were misgivings about the Isthmus route, and alarming tales were current as early as December, 1848, about thousands of people stranded there.  The prevalence of these rumors led the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: to inquire into the facts, in its issue of December 19, 1848:</p><P>"In looking over our files carefully, we find that two vessels only have sailed for Chagres, since the appearance of the excitement--on board of which are sixty or seventy persons only; and this number, with the addition of a few who might have left the British West India islands, is about all that may be expected at this place for a fortnight to come.  The steamer <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, which left some few days before the <HI REND="italics">John Benson</HI>
079.sgm:, had about twenty on board for Chagres.  These, if landed safely, can depend, with the utmost certainty, upon quick conveyance to Panama, as there are at present employed upon the Chagres river a sufficient number of boats to carry at least one hundred persons across per day, and we are credibly informed that some of these canoes are capable of carrying one hundred half barrels.  But, should there be any thing like the number of persons at Chagres that has been stated, it is doubtful if accommodations can be obtained to the extent necessary to ensure their speedy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:passage to the Pacific.  There have been no departures from any of the ports in the United States, for Chagres, except New York, for more than six weeks, and those from this port number but two, carrying about eighty persons, all told, which falls far short of the calculations made by the papers through the country."  It was suggested that the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, up for sailing on the 23rd, would be the first to enter Chagres, "and the owners, we understand, are determined to use all endeavors to facilitate the transshipment of her passengers to Panama, where it is likely the British mail steamer which stops at that port once a month, will be in readiness to convey them down the coast.  The last accounts from Valparaiso, Callao, and from Guayaquil, reported a large number of Americans, Chilian, and Peruvian vessels in each of those places, as being without employment, and ready to embrace the first opportunity that would lead to active business of any description...."</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: returned to New York January 24, followed by the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: on the 27th, both with generally encouraging news about the prospects of getting on to California from the Isthmus, and at the time McCollum left his home in Lockport, both vessels were up for their second voyages, the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: to leave February 1, the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: on the 5th.  It was in the steerage of the latter that the Lockport company obtained passage.</p><P>Despite all the good things said about the Isthmus route, the majority of the gold-seekers sailing out of U. S. ports went via Cape Horn.  That may have reflected the seafaring tradition of the East Coast, distrust of "overland" routes (of which the Isthmus was considered one), the superior facilities for carrying baggage, the greater cheapness of the route (especially for large organized companies), or the simplicity of boarding a ship and just sitting put until the time arrived to step ashore in San Francisco.  Nevertheless, it is enlightening to look at some statistics periodically compiled by the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, covering sailings from all U. S. ports.  The first such accounting, on January 16, listed by name 36 vessels which had sailed via <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:Cape Horn carrying 1,164 passengers, officers and crews swelling the total to 1,682.  By contrast, 530 passengers in 7 vessels had sailed for Chagres.  Several such accountings were made as the season advanced, and on April 19 came a comprehensive tabulation, with a recapitulation reporting that 11,527 passengers, or a total of 14,191 including officers and crews, had sailed via Cape Horn in 225 vessels, while total sailings for Chagres came to 3,547 passengers in 52 voyages (several vessels having made two or more trips).  Other routes had attracted gold-seekers to a lesser extent, to this time, at least.  To Vera Cruz had gone 698 passengers in 11 vessels; to Brazos 765 in 11 vessels; to Corpus Christi 103 in 3 vessels; to the San Juan River 118 in 2 vessels; to Tampico 87 in 2 vessels; to Galveston 87 and to Lavaca 122, each in single vessels.  The grand total came to 19,717 persons in 309 vessels.</p><P>The precision of these figures is more seeming than real, for there is great variation among contemporary reports as to the total who sailed in any given vessel; vessels were forced to return to port for one reason or another, so that their passengers sometimes were counted again in other vessels; some vessels escaped the census; and yet others which left port with announced destinations turned up elsewhere--a conspicuous example of this last being the schooner <HI REND="italics">Sovereign</HI>
079.sgm: out of Baltimore, which swells the Cape Horn totals but came to Chagres with Tyson and a good many others aboard.  Still, the errors may cancel out; and the proportions may be about right, especially as between the Cape Horn and Chagres routes, though it seems certain that these proportions altered as the season wore on; in all probability, a much larger number took the Isthmus route than rounded the Horn during the latter half of 1849.  From the point of view of arrivals at San Francisco between March 31 and December 31, 1849 (which is not quite the same thing as departures from the East Coast to the close of 1849, and which also leaves out of account those, like the passengers in the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:, who reached San Francisco early in the year), a finding has been made that of some 30,675 arrivals, 12,237 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:came from U.S. ports via Cape Horn, 6,000 via Panama, 2,600 via San Blas and Mazatlan, and the rest from other quarters.<ANCHOR ID="ni-22">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: We must remember, of course, that ships were lost at sea, that emigrants died or turned back, and that not all who sailed from U.S. ports for Chagres or other way points had California as their destination.  As a contribution toward knowledge of travel by the Isthmus route, I have prepared, on another page, a tabulation of arrivals at Chagres to the end of April, 1849, corrected and amplified from several partial tabulations made for the contemporary New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:.  This list is by no means final, subject to further correction and amplification even for its period.  I have not commanded the information that would enable me to extend it over the entire year 1849, but the period covered has its own appropriateness, in that it corresponds closely to the time McCollum spent en route to and waiting upon the Isthmus.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-22">See H. H. Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
079.sgm: (San Francisco, 1888), vol. VI, p. 159n, crediting the investigations of J. Coolidge of the Merchants' Exchange.  The New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of June 24, 1849, quotes from the Washington <HI REND="italics">Republic</HI>
079.sgm: of the previous day official statistics from the Collector of San Francisco as to the number of persons arriving at San Francisco in American and Foreign vessels, October, 1848-March 31, 1849, the total arrivals by sea being 2,433.  These are listed by country of citizenship, not by route, vessel, or port at which voyage originated; still, the breakdown is illuminating: Mexico or Lower California, 454; United States, 340; Chile, 270; France, 178; Germany, 100; Peru, 90; England, 86; Ireland, 42; Spain, 40; Italy, 39; Scotland, 34; Sandwich Islands, 24; Brazil, 23; and a scattering from other countries.  Probably the majority of those from the United States came via the Isthmus, and on the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:<P>iv</p><P>Writing over a year later, McCollum spared only a few words for the departure of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: from New York on February 5, 1849.  Theodore Johnson provides a fuller <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:account, and one even more detailed appears in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of February 6, where it is said that the crowds and confusion were so great that the time of sailing was delayed nearly an hour, the excitement on boat and pier very high, and a general feeling of hilarity prevading the assemblage.  "The scene was extremely picturesque, and it was amusing to behold the various dresses of the passengers, attired as they were, some in India rubber, some in differently colored oil cloth--white, black, green, yellow--and some of no color at all.  Here was one with an India rubber tent; another with a life preserver as large as a balloon; and a pair of waterproof boots large enough to cover half his carcass.  Every fashion of hat and cap was put in requisition--Dutch, French, Italian, Chinese, Spanish, down to the latest California slouch.  Rifles, muskets, shot guns and revolvers, were to be seen strapped to the backs and sides of the adventurers, in a profusion that seemed to indicate an invasion of a different character to that of a gold region.  The steamship <HI REND="italics">Hermann</HI>
079.sgm:, lying on the other side of the pier, was filled with spectators, her decks being covered with snow, which had been falling fast all the fore part of the day, some persons commenced snowballing those on the dock.  The compliment was returned in good earnest, and in a few moments hundreds engaged in the animating sport, which continued for about half an hour....  The scene wound up by those on board the <HI REND="italics">Hermann</HI>
079.sgm: running up a white flag on the top of an umbrella, although they did not surrender till every man in the shrouds had been shot down."</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: pulled away from the dock a few minutes before two P.M., the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: says, "amidst the firing of cannon, and vociferous cheers from an immense multitude."  Johnson adds that "the excitement of the surrounding multitude was manifested by the most enthusiastic shouts, and many seemed ready to leap on board to accompany us to El Dorado,"--and in truth, cases were known of men who had gone aboard vessels to bid goodbye to friends, only to be carried away by the excitement and sail with them.  The southward voyage is well described by McCollum and Hecox, and only a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:additional details need be added.</p><P>This being the period before steamships came fully of age, the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: was a smoke-spouting side-wheeler and a three-masted sailing ship for good measure, the sails sometimes being hoisted to take advantage of a following wind.  When, in August, 1849, she was preparing to sail on her seventh voyage to Chagres, the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: devoted some space to this "noble and favorite ship," saying that so perfectly had she performed, the time occupied in the voyage had in no case varied two hours, "invariably making the distance in eight days and 10 or 12 hours."  The perfection of her engine, built by Secor &amp; Company, was dwelt upon: "It has never faltered during the heaviest weather, and the ship has never `laid to' for a moment, no matter how severe the storm....She has thus far made quick time, and for beauty of model, or comfort and splendor of accommodations, is hardly to be surpassed."<ANCHOR ID="ni-23">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: The <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: also praised her captain, the "deservedly popular" and "accomplished" Charles Stoddard, and except for some hard things said of him in the annals of this second voyage of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, it must be said that he got a universally good press in 1849.  An interesting representation of his ship, sketched by D. W. Nayson on the occasion of one of her visits to Chagres, is reproduced in the present work from a contemporary illustrated periodical.<ANCHOR ID="ni-24">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-23">New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-24"><HI REND="italics">Gleason's Pictorial Drawing-Room Companion</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The principal event of the voyage, after the passengers mastered their sea-sickness, was the near disaster on the evening of February 10.  Late that afternoon the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: had made Caycos Island and headed for the Windward Passage.  One of the passengers, Leonard S. Hotchkiss, in a letter written three days later, says that about 9 P.M. "the Isle Inagua" was made out close under the bow.  "The moon had just begun to rise, and it was rather dark.  As soon as the discovery was made, the engine was stopped, the sails taken in, the ship backed off, and we stood to the eastward.  Had the night been very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:dark, or the vessel without steam, we should probably have gone ashore, on what I presume to be a desolate island--a few moments more and we should have been lost, but we were providentially saved."  Theodore Johnson comments that half an hour after moonrise, "the engine was suddenly stopped, and the cry of breakers ahead passed with electric rapidity from stem to stern.  Going forward, we beheld with awe the surf and white beach of a small island on both bows; the ship seeming to be in a little cove within a mile of the shore, and going stem on, ten knots an hour.  The island proved to be Little In&tilde;agua, uninhabited except by turtle, and our escape from wreck was most providential, as most of the Bahamas have coral reef extending far into the sea.  The look-out man in the fore top had gone to sleep, the first mate, who was officer of the deck, had failed to see the danger, and a sailor off duty first gave the alarm.<ANCHOR ID="ni-25">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-25">This letter, clipped from an unidentified paper probably published in New Haven or Bridgeport, is pasted into a scrapbook, <HI REND="italics">California Newspaper Clippings, 1848-1849</HI>
079.sgm:<P>David N. Hawley remembered the episode somewhat differently, in a statement given many years later to H. H. Bancroft.  He said they had on board two or three old New Bedford skippers, and he himself had been to sea with his father, a ship captain.  "We were not by Cape Hatteras twelve hours before I perceived that Captain Stoddard was not fit to command the vessel, and I became satisfied that he did not know where we were running.  I noticed that he was getting under the effects of liquor, and presently it was discovered that the steamer was headed for the land, and close upon it, and in ten minutes more she would have been beached upon Little Inagua, and if it had not been for one of those old whaling skippers, we should have been lost.  He saw the danger, and rushed to the Pilot House, and got the mate up, and called to the Engineer to stop the vessel just in time to prevent her striking, and she had to back out of that cove half a mile or so."<ANCHOR ID="ni-26">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-26">MS. Statement in the Bancroft Library, C-D 98.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>Narrowly averted shipwreck, however, was just an incident of the voyage, and it is a commentary on human nature that when the getting up of indignation meetings among the passengers began a few days later, the cause was a more homely one.  In his letter Leonard Hotchkiss says: "Much fault was found by the passengers against the owners and agents of the vessel, for taking so many passengers in the steerage, and for not furnishing better fare.  Most of the passengers expected the fare of a boarding-house, and they were not a little disappointed.  With a 160 passengers in the steerage, there are only three waiters [besides the stewardess, the only woman aboard], and although we have plenty to eat, it is only the coarse fare of sailor....  The steerage passengers are getting up an indignation meeting against the owners, the proceedings to be published, warning persons not to take passage in the steerage unless the number is limited."</p><P>By this time, Chagres was just over the horizon, and plans for crossing the Isthmus were up for discussion; "some of the great men among us," Johnson says, "the militia colonels, doctors, and bearers of despatches, presided over our deliberations, or spouted in the most effective mass-meeting style," as a result of which mule, boat, and baggage committees were appointed, "which ended only in delay, vexation and trouble, although they exerted themselves to the utmost."</p><P>The trouble was that so many vessels reached Chagres at the same time, the brig <HI REND="italics">Winthrop</HI>
079.sgm:, the steamer <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, the bark <HI REND="italics">Marietta</HI>
079.sgm:, and the steamer <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: all arriving within a few hours of one another on February 14.  They discharged in the neighborhood of 750 passengers to compete for transportation across the Isthmus.  At least, by this time ship captains had learned circumspection; six out of eight sailing vessels that had reached Chagres in December and January had wrecked upon the bar at the mouth of the Chagres River, so that passenger vessels were now satisfied to anchor out in the open roadstead, transporting passengers and their baggage ashore in canoes, while sailing craft which required entrance to the basin or inner harbor arranged to be towed in by the small steamer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm: had made her appearance at Chagres January 14, the intention of her owners being that she should primarily be employed in transporting passengers up the Chagres River as far as her draft would permit.</p><P>The passengers of the <HI REND="italics">Winthrop</HI>
079.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, first on the scene, tied up the facilities of the <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm: and left the passengers of the <HI REND="italics">Marietta</HI>
079.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: to make what shift they could among the local owners and operators of canoes--dugouts fashioned from trunks of large bay trees, the common mahogany.  Leonard Hotchkiss, in his serially composed letter, shows how the situation unfolded from hour to hour.  Writing after arrival, on the evening of the 14th, he says:</p><P>"Our committee who went immediately on shore, have sent word that they have engaged a sufficient number of canoes to take all our baggage up the river, and they have gone on to engage mules.  Another committee go in the morning to engage canoes for our persons.</p><P>"The <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm:, it is said, only goes up the river 18 miles, and we have therefore thought it best to take canoes all the way to Gorgona or Cruces.  We are told that there will be no trouble in getting through; as it is believed we have got the start of the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"Morning of the 15th.</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>--All confusion in going ashore.  Canoes along side taking baggage and persons ashore.  Some of the natives have on shirts and pants; others only a strip of cloth around their hips.</p></DIV>
079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"15th, Evening.</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>--This has been a very exciting day, not only on board ship, but in Chagres.--The negro with whom our committee contracted for canoes, refuses to fulfill the agreement, the contract not being signed, and we are now all to do the best we can.  A large part of our passengers have gone on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:shore--some have gone up the river, and some remain at Chagres.  Some who have gone on, have left their baggage behind.  I intend to stick to mine as long as is consistent.  I expect to get it landed to-morrow, and proceed up the river, as it is said there are plenty of canoes....</p><P>"I have not yet been on shore, but those who have report a singular state of things; men and women going about in a state of nudity, &amp;c.  Tropical fruits are plenty, but I think it best to avoid them.</p><P>"The method of unloading our baggage is quite novel.  A large canoe, manned by six or eight natives, comes along the side, where there is quite a sea, the wind being on shore.  The baggage is lowered away, and when an opportunity offers it is dropped into the canoes.  When the large canoe is loaded, it is paddled into shoal water, where the baggage is transferred to a small canoe and taken to the shore.  Such a jabber of Spanish I never heard before, as these natives make.</p><P>"The <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm: has started up the river with a load of the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"Chagres, Feb. 16th.</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>--I came on shore this morning with my baggage, and have engaged a canoe to take me to Gorgona for $8.  Provided the natives do not back out, I shall proceed this afternoon.  There is no certainty that they will adhere to their agreement, although my baggage is on board the canoe....I have been about the town--things look clean and neat, and I have seen nothing of the nude men and women as was reported.  The ladies dress in style, with their laces and ruffles."</p><P>McCollum declined to get excited about these matters, but others were aroused to a high pitch of excitement over the negotiations for canoes.  A <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: correspondent signing himself M. E. R., in a Chagres letter of February 17, tells how a committee of six from the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: had been sent on shore to procure canoes, and goes on to say: "Our committee made an agreement with a Mr. [Julien] Ramos to convey the baggage belonging to the passengers, (305 in number,) to Gorgona, for the round sum of $960--distance 45 miles.  This was a verbal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:agreement, made in the presence of all the committee and the first officer of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:.  The next morning, after our committee had left for Gorgona, Ramos returned to fulfill his engagement--declared to those left behind that he had made no such agreement with our committee, but that if we could produce a written bargain to that effect, bearing his signature, why he would abide by it.  Thus our passengers were thrown upon the tender mercies of this man.  The manly and decided stand taken by Captain Stoddard against this Ramos, no doubt saved all from being perfectly fleeced; as it was, they had enough of it.  The writer of this saw one party pay $300 for a single canoe to Gorgona.  While defending his passengers against these impositions, Captain Stoddard was asked by Ramos, why he took such an interest in the matter?  His reply was that they were his countrymen and passengers, and sooner than see them thus imposed upon, he would arm his crew and take the town.  This threat had some effect in bringing his canoes down from an outrageous to an exorbitant price."<ANCHOR ID="ni-27">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-27">New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Theodore Johnson tells the tale somewhat differently, saying that a contract had been written out and signed, but that when the committee proposed to have it certified by the Alcalde as was usual, the canoe owners "strenuously and most indignantly objected: no indeed, they were gentlemen, men of honor; their word was as good as their bond.  The committee finally yielded the point, chiefly relying upon the liberal sum agreed to be paid by us.  Surprised at our facile compliance with their original demand, they determined at once to bolt from their contract, and had now done so, demanding the most exorbitant prices for canoes."  The remonstrances and threats of Captain Stoddard in their behalf being for a long time unavailing, at length "revolvers were quickly put in efficient condition, and bowie knives made their persuasive appearance.  Whip the rascal, fire his den, burn the settlement, annex the Isthmus, were heard on all sides.  Fortunately for themselves the high contracting parties understood English, and their ears being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:sensitive at the moment, and their nerves more so, the dirty brown of their complexion speedily changed to a livid white, and they came down in their villainous demands, barely in time to save their shantee from a come down on their heads.  Their rascality, however, was in the main accomplished, in the way in which they had cunningly foreseen and intended; for many of our impetuous young men, led by the example of a few selfish old travellers among us, and wearied with delay, had engaged canoes for themselves, making private bargains on the best terms they could; but even then they were frequently deprived of a canoe after the bargain was concluded, on the plea that others would pay more.  As soon as this game was understood by us, we quietly selected and took possession of the canoes which we required, agreeing to pay them eight dollars each person for passenger canoes, and at the rate of about three dollars per hundred pounds for baggage to Cruces or Gorgona, half to be paid in advance."</p><P>Interesting is it that McCollum does not join in all this highly vocal outrage, permitting himself instead to wonder how some Yankees might have comported themselves, given a comparable opportunity for profiteering.  With those who had remained behind to look after the baggage of the Lockport company, he got off early Sunday morning, February 18, in one of the big freight canoes.  The type, it seems, was called a <HI REND="italics">cayuca</HI>
079.sgm:, though the dugouts of the Isthmus became known generally to the Americans as <HI REND="italics">bungoes</HI>
079.sgm:, a bungo being, as Johnson explains, a "species of roof made of the branches of leaves of the palmetto, extending some six or eight feet in length, and just high enough to creep under upon our hands and knees; leaving space enough at the stern for the seat of the <HI REND="italics">patron</HI>
079.sgm:, or captain, who, with a short broad paddle, both aided to propel and steer the canoe."  The small canoes, of the type Johnson took, were not generally recommended, and it is to be observed that his party of four paid $8 each, plus about $3 per hundred pounds for whatever total their baggage weighed, whereas McCollum's detachment of the Lockport company, after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:taking in enough to bring their number to 14 persons, with 6 or 7 tons of baggage, ended by paying out some $80 as their share of the expense.</p><P>Thus departed Chagres' transient population, southward up the Chagres River, most of the <HI REND="italics">Winthrop</HI>
079.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: passengers transported in the <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: contingent going in canoes, and the <HI REND="italics">Marietta</HI>
079.sgm: passengers, as we learn from John M. Letts, delaying to build their own boats for the ascent of the river.  The crossing of the Isthmus at this time and under these different circumstances is abundantly described for us in the narratives published by Delavan, Johnson, McCollum, and Letts, to say nothing of letters written to newspapers by Hecox and others.  Another interesting narrative of the crossing, had I space for it, is by one of the <HI REND="italics">Falcon's</HI>
079.sgm: passengers, R. D. Hart, contributed to the first two issues of the <HI REND="italics">Panama Star</HI>
079.sgm:, February 24 and March 3, 1849.  Some of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: passengers had got to Gorgona by February 19, for on that date we find them having another whirl at that popular recreation, the holding of indignation meetings.  The results were sent along for publication in the first issue of the <HI REND="italics">Panama Star</HI>
079.sgm::</p><P>"WHEREAS, The undersigned passengers in the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, from New York to Chagres, have been subjected to great imposition, disappointment, delay and expense in their voyage from New York and transit across the Isthmus, and having also suffered from misrepresentations with regard to the facilities of proceeding from Panama to California, they feel that they can only accomplish a duty to their countrymen and effect justice toward themselves and the several agents of the above Steamer, by a true and thorough exposition of the facts.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">First</HI>
079.sgm:.  The agents and owners in New York, represented that the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm: could proceed to Gorgona on the Chagres River, and that the whole expense of reaching Panama would not exceed $20 to $25.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">In reply</HI>
079.sgm:, we assert that the <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm: could only proceed 18 miles, or one third the distance to Gorgona, and that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:expense of reaching Panama for one person and 300 pounds of baggage is not less than $45, and in some instances $60--and of this expense $1 each was exacted to land passengers by the officers of the Steamer at Chagres.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Second</HI>
079.sgm:.  The agents and owners represented that they had been informed that the British Steamers had placed their relay vessels on the route from Panama to San Francisco, and that there would be little or no difficulty in obtaining vessels at Panama.  The voyage from Panama to San Francisco in sailing vessels was stated to occupy 25 to 30 days.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">In reply we assert</HI>
079.sgm:, That the British Steamers do not run to San Francisco and their Consul informs us that no orders have been received to place any of their vessels on the route.  In regard to the voyage in sailing vessels, the agents of the American Steams in Panama, now state that it occupies 50 to 70 days, and they in conjunction with the American Consul refuse to facilitate our voyage in any other vessels than their own steams, and justifying the same on a plea of duty to the owners.</p><P>"We desire also to make it known that there are now upwards of one thousand passengers upon the Isthmus in transit and awaiting passage from Panama, in the vessels which may chance to arrive at that port, that the number is increased by daily arrivals at Chagres, that only a small portion of the whole have tickets for the Steamers, and there is but one vessel (a brig) now at Panama which is full.  The above statement is vouched for by the undersigned now congregated at this village, awaiting the arrival of part of their baggage and their transition to Panama; the state of affairs at the latter port having been ascertained by a committee sent forward by the passengers who have returned to this place and made their report</p><P>GILBERT A. GRANT,</p><P>GEO. W. TAYLOR,</p><P>JAMES C. ZABRISKIE,</p><P>EDWARD WARREN,</p><P>GEORGE H. BUCKLY,</p><P><HI REND="italics">Committee of the Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>And two hundred passengers on board <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:.  Gorgona, Feb. 19, 1849."<ANCHOR ID="ni-28">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-28">George W. Taylor, one of the committeemen, got up a further Card at Panama, March 29.  This was printed in the Trenton, N. J., <HI REND="italics">Gazette</HI>
079.sgm:, April 17, 1849, and in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Theodore Johnson appears to have set out in his small canoe on February 15 and to have reached Gorgona on the 17th.  McCollum did not get away from Chagres until the 18th, arriving at Gorgona the day after the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City's</HI>
079.sgm: committee had completed its true and thorough exposition of the facts.  Johnson does not say how long he remained at Gorgona, except that it was for some days; McCollum stayed on for three days before continuing across the hills to Panama.  Some of their fellow passengers remained at Gorgona for several weeks when they realized that there was no immediate prospect of getting on to San Francisco; there continued to be difficulties in the transport of baggage, and the situation of Gorgona was regarded as more healthful than that of Panama.  But from February 24 to what came to seem almost the end of time, McCollum and his fellows of the Lockport company waited upon events in Panama.</p><P>V</p><P>The first wave of gold-seekers to wash across the Isthmus, at the beginning of 1849, had experienced difficulties and apprehensions similar to, if not quite on the same scale as, those of the second wave on which McCollum was borne along.  There had been pressure on the transport facilities, and in particular there had been anxiety about the availability of shipping for continuing on to San Francisco.</p><P>Most of the early-comers had placed their hopes in the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:, expected to reach Panama about January 5.  The <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: made a famous voyage, and those who at length reached San Francisco in her ever afterward considered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:themsleves among the very elite of Forty-niners.<ANCHOR ID="ni-29">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: She carried only a few passengers on leaving New York, but arrived at Panama on January 18, 1849, with 17 cabin and 52 steerage passengers, mostly Peruvians taken on board at Callao, where she had found the gold fever already raging.  Their presence aboard the ship infuriated the Americans who held tickets for a passage up to San Francisco, and who demanded that the Peruvians be put ashore or transferred to a sailing ship.  Fully aware that if they went ashore they would never get aboard again, the South Americans never once left ship during the <HI REND="italics">California's</HI>
079.sgm: 13 days in port.  They were rewarded by their persistence, for when the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: resumed her voyage on January 31, Americans and South Americans jammed together in her, 365 passengers besides the 36-man crew</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-29">See <HI REND="italics">First Steamship Pioneers</HI>
079.sgm: (San Francisco, 1874); Victor M. Berthold, <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer Steamer California</HI>
079.sgm: (Boston, 1932); and Ernest A. Wiltsee, <HI REND="italics">Gold Rush Steamers [of the Pacific</HI>
079.sgm: ] (San Francisco, 1938.)  Edward E. Dunbar published his reminiscences of the voyage up from Panama in the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: in his <HI REND="italics">The Romance of the Age; or Discovery of Gold in California</HI>
079.sgm: (New York, 1867), pp. 48-91; and the diary of Levi Stowell on the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, across to Panama, and thence north on the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: is edited by Marco G. Thorne in California Historical Society <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Those who could not be accommodated aboard the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: took passage in the rare sailing ships which chanced to touch at Panama about this time, or waited with small patience for the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: to come up from the south, or for the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: to return from San Francisco.  This latter proved a delusive hope; only too well had President Polk forecast the future in summing up the recent past: "Ships arriving on the coast are deserted by their crews, and their voyages suspended for want of sailors."  Within a week of her arrival at San Francisco on February 28, the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: was deserted by all her officers and crew save the captain and a single engineer.  And in any event, she could not have sailed soon, for coaling arrangements had gone awry.  It was May 1 before the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: obtained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:coal and a crew so as to steam out through the Golden Gate, and May 23 before she returned to Panama.</p><P>Meanwhile the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: had appeared at Panama, trailing her plume of smoke.  News of her arrival on February 23 electrified all then traveling across the Isthmus, particularly those who held tickets entitling them to board her--mostly the passengers of the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, though a few from the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: had wangled tickets before leaving New York.  When McCollum and others of the Lockport contingent reached Panama on February 24, it may be imagined how longingly they looked to where she lay anchored, several miles out in the open roadstead south of the port.  The <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: sailed for San Francisco March 13 and steamed in through the Golden Gate April 1, with Delavan and Johnson aboard.  Her captain, warned by the fate of the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:, took every precaution to retain his crew, and also met with better fortune in respect of fuel, having been able to coal at San Blas.  The <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: steamed south again on April 12, once more refueling at San Blas, and returned to Panama on May 4, the first arrival from California since the brig <HI REND="italics">Belfast</HI>
079.sgm: on February 5.  The belated <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
079.sgm: thrashed up from the south about the middle of May, and sailed for San Francisco on the 18th, just five days before the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: followed the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: back into port.<ANCHOR ID="ni-30">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: But all this steamship activity came too late to be of any use to McCollum and his fellow passengers of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-30">See again the works cited in footnote 21.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>The Isthmus for many years had provided so little in the way of incentive for sailing ships to visit Panama that the Forty-niners could regard as a piece of luck the appearance of any vessels that put in as the Gold Rush surged across the narrow neck of the continent.  John M. Letts wrote in retrospect: "Great anxiety was felt by the Americans at Panama to proceed on to California.  The sun had passed overhead, and was settling in the north, indicating the approach of the rainy season.  Many were sick of the fever, many had died, which added to the general anxiety.  Many had procured steamer tickets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:before leaving home.  The steamers had passed down to San Francisco, been deserted by their crews, and were unable to return, and there were no seaworthy vessels in port.  The indomitable go-a-head-ativeness of the Yankee nation could not remain dormant, and soon several `bungoes' were `up' for California.  Schooners of from thirteen to twenty-five tons, that had been abandoned as worthless, were son galvanized, by pen and type, into ` <HI REND="italics">the new and fast sailing schooner</HI>
079.sgm:.'  These were immediately filled up at from $200 to $300 per ticket, passengers finding [provisioning] themselves.  In the anxiety to get off, a party purchased an iron boat on the Chagres River, carried it across to Panama on their shoulders, fitted it out, and sailed for California.  The first `bungo' that sailed, after getting out into the bay some three or four miles, was struck by a slight flaw of wind, dismasted, and obliged to put back for repairs.  This caused a very perceptible decline in `bungo' stocks.  Many took passage in the British steamer for Valparaiso, in hopes to find conveyance from that port.  The passengers of one of ` <HI REND="italics">the fast sailing schooners</HI>
079.sgm: ' when going on board, preparatory to sailing, found that the owners, in their <HI REND="italics">zeal to accommodate their countrymen</HI>
079.sgm:, had sold about three times as many tickets as said vessel would carry.  Instead of allowing fourteen square feet to the man, as the law requires, they appear to have taken the <HI REND="italics">exact-dimensions</HI>
079.sgm: of the passengers, and filled the vessel accordingly.  The passengers refused to let the captain weigh anchor, and sent a deputation on shore to demand the return of their money; but lo! the disinterested gentlemen were `non est inventus.'  After a long search, they succeeded in finding one of the worthies, and notwithstanding his disinterested efforts in behalf of the <HI REND="italics">public</HI>
079.sgm:, he was locked up.  The captain fearing personal violence, left the vessel privately, and for several days was nowhere to be found.  The passengers, however, entered into a compromise with themselves, the first on the list going on board.  The mate informed the captain and they were soon under way.  The owner, who had been so persecutingly locked up, having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:formerly been an operator in Wall Street, resolved to slight the hospitalities of the city, and took his leave when the barefooted sentinel wasn't looking."  The pungent advice of Theodore Johnson was:  "I would advise any person to attempt to <HI REND="italics">swim</HI>
079.sgm: from Panama to San Francisco, rather than take passage in a <HI REND="italics">sailing</HI>
079.sgm: vessel.  Get a <HI REND="italics">Pacific steamer's ticket</HI>
079.sgm:, before leaving New York, or do not attempt this route."</p><P>Reports written home or brought back by vessels returning at Chagres from January to May display more concretely the situation as it developed.  The day after the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: returned from its first voyage, on January 28, the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: advised: "At Chagres, an agent of the ship was despatched express to Panama, to facilitate, if possible, the transit of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City's</HI>
079.sgm: passengers, and obtain information of the condition of the road, and the state of matters at Panama, in reference to the thousands represented as there waiting conveyance to San Francisco.  The agent arrived in Panama, in fourteen days from New York, and found but 200 to 300 waiting there, and when the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: left Chagres [January 9] there were not over 500 passengers on the Isthmus."</p><P>A Panama letter of January 7, printed in the <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:, commented: "We found three or four hundred persons waiting here, but plenty of provisions, and no sickness....  Sixty of us have chartered a schooner for San Francisco for $4,000, and will soon be off.  There is another schooner here, which has also been chartered by a company.  The ship <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia</HI>
079.sgm:, at anchor here, will also sail on the voyage."</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
079.sgm: also reported an awe-inspiring development: "In case the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: should not soon arrive, some of the travelers were talking of an expedition by land, along the coast."<ANCHOR ID="ni-31">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-31">New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of January 29 had advices one day later: "There were three schooners at Panama announced for San Francisco.  They would leave between the 8th and 20th inst. with passengers.  The <HI REND="italics">Humboldt</HI>
079.sgm:, coalship, was also there but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:would not go to California.  The bark <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia</HI>
079.sgm: was not there, as previously reported, but was daily expected.  She will probably be chartered to take passengers to the gold region, and one or two vessels from the South were to touch at Panama, on their way north."  By February 15 the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: had Panama dates to January 18, the day the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: arrived.  "She and two ships that were there, would take all the passengers to San Francisco--between six and seven hundred--who were waiting their departure on the 20th ult."  A correspondent advised that the ship <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia</HI>
079.sgm: was then discharging her coal alongside the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: at Toboga, and would immediately depart for San Francisco.  "A schooner is already preparing, and a schooner left a few days since, both having some 60 on board."  Another Panama letter of January 23, printed in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of February 24, gave information that the schooner <HI REND="italics">Angelita</HI>
079.sgm:, 25 passengers, was to sail that very day for California; the British mail steamer <HI REND="italics">Forth</HI>
079.sgm: was just in; the coal ship <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia</HI>
079.sgm: would leave next week with some 300, and a schooner of 70 tons would also sail on Monday with some 25 on board.  The next report, written from Panama on February 6, told of the sailing of the steamer <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: at the end of January, and in a postscript said that the <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia</HI>
079.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">John Ritson</HI>
079.sgm: were the only vessels up, both full, with 250 passengers en route from Chagres unprovided for.  One vessel only was at Panama to be put up, though arrivals were hourly expected.<ANCHOR ID="ni-32">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Another Panama correspondent, writing on February 8, said that the brig <HI REND="italics">Belfast</HI>
079.sgm: had arrived from San Francisco three days before.  The ship <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia</HI>
079.sgm: would sail tomorrow with 200 passengers, and "our bark," the <HI REND="italics">John Ritson</HI>
079.sgm:, on the 13th with 120 more.<ANCHOR ID="ni-33">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: And, as a last letter before the arrival on the Isthmus of the second big wave of the Gold Rush, a Forty-niner who reached Panama February 11 wrote home to say that the <HI REND="italics">Belfast</HI>
079.sgm: would sail shortly, following the British bark <HI REND="italics">John Ritson</HI>
079.sgm: which had sailed on the 14th with 120 passengers, all she could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:accommodate.  But two ships were then in port, the ship <HI REND="italics">Humboldt</HI>
079.sgm:, from Bremen with coal, awaiting the arrival of the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:, expected to load guano for home, and the <HI REND="italics">Belfast</HI>
079.sgm:, to leave in a few days.  "At present there are about one hundred and fifty persons here waiting for an opportunity.  The greater part of these take the steamer [the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: ]."  This writer added, "A gentleman connected with the custom house informs me that 900 persons only left this port for San Francisco since the excitement broke out."<ANCHOR ID="ni-34">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-32">New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-33">New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-34">New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, returning to New York on March 3 from her second voyage, carried home the news McCollum had heard on arrival at Chagres; the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm: had sailed January 31 with her "375" passengers, including the obstinate Peruvians; the <HI REND="italics">John Ritson</HI>
079.sgm: had sailed on the 13th, with over 100 passengers; the <HI REND="italics">Belfast</HI>
079.sgm: was up and would sail in a few days, full; a schooner, bought by Chris.  Lally and party, had sailed on the 1st with 25 passengers.  It was estimated that from 100 to 200 Americans were at Panama, with enough en route across the Isthmus to bring the total awaiting passage to almost 1,000 persons.<ANCHOR ID="ni-35">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-35"><HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The day McCollum reached Panama, February 24, a <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: correspondent wrote from that city.  The <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:, which had arrived at 8 P.M. last night, brought only seven passengers, but would fill up very fast, "as I presume there are at least twelve hundred persons between Chagres and Panama, destined for California.  Of this number, only about three hundred have tickets for the steamer <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:; and it reported that there are no vessels at any of the ports on the Pacific, which intend visiting here to transport passengers to California.  What will become of those now here, Heaven only knows.  Steerage tickets in the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:, which cost in New York one hundred dollars, have been sold for four hundred dollars--and I heard five hundred dollars offered for one this morning."<ANCHOR ID="ni-36">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-36"><HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>For a fact, the ship news the <HI REND="italics">Panama Star</HI>
079.sgm: could report this day in its first issue did not amount to much.  "Vessels in the Harbour of Panama.--One Bremen barque with coal for the steamer; one small schooner of seventy tons, which is offered for sale in shares at $300 per share, (twenty-eight shares, each share entitled to two passages;) one old coasting schooner of 50 tons, is also offered for sale, price $6,000.  She is worth about as much as a New York oyster boat."</p><P>James Delavan, clutching his ticket for the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:, remarked that "the desire to embark was most intense, and tickets for the steamer rose to an enormous price: even those for the steerage readily brought four hundred dollars, while three hundred dollars were paid by many for passage on board various sailing craft, some of which were scarcely worthy of any nautical designation.  So great was the rush, that many adventured upon this long voyage of 3,600 miles in small vessels of fifteen or twenty tons.  Many went down the coast, to Callao, in an English steamer, hoping to obtain an upward passage from that port [this, it will be recalled, had been the recommendation of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: back in December]; while hundreds allowed themselves to be huddled on board miserable vessels, not capable of accommodating one-eighth of their numbers."</p><P>The second issue of the <HI REND="italics">Panama Star</HI>
079.sgm:, March 3, recorded that the bark <HI REND="italics">Equator of</HI>
079.sgm: New Bedford had arrived on the 25th from a whaling cruise, 18 months out, with 450 barrels of oil.  "She was up for San Francisco the next day, and in a few hours every ticket (130 in number) was taken at $200 each.  She will sail in about ten days."  Also: "The schooner <HI REND="italics">Constellation</HI>
079.sgm: was purchased by a party of Americans, and are now fitting her out for San Francisco, and will sail in a few days, with 35 passengers....  Col. J. C. Zabriskie and party go in her."  This circumstance was calculated to put the Colonel in a better mood than he had been while composing true and thorough expositions of the facts at Gorgona.</p><P>But indignation meetings were in full flower again, as we learn from the <HI REND="italics">Panama Star</HI>
079.sgm: of March 17: "...the meeting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:of last week held by the Americans awaiting passage here, to attempt to put down a system of fraud and speculation in the prices to California, had the effect to reduce very considerably the rates first asked, and to prevent speculation in tickets.  Of the numerous persons who signed, we have heard of but one, who proved faithless to his word, his signature and his honor.  How far his conduct will insure the respect of those he represented, or the confidence of honest men, remains to be seen."</p><P>Three days later a Panama correspondent sent to the New York <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
079.sgm: a general account of the shipping situation as it then existed:</p><P>"It is judged there are now in this city at least 1,000 Americans, and 500 more between Chagres and this--1,500 in all.</p><P>"The steamer <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: left here on Tuesday morning, 13th inst. with 226 passengers.  There are now some six vessels, of different sizes, up for San Francisco, all of whom have their full complement of passengers engaged.  They are</p><P>The British bark <HI REND="italics">Collooney</HI>
079.sgm: 140 passengers<HSEP>fare $200</p><P>The Am. Whal. bark <HI REND="italics">Equator</HI>
079.sgm: 130 passengers<HSEP>fare 200</p><P>The Am. brig <HI REND="italics">Felix</HI>
079.sgm: 60 passengers<HSEP>fare 200</p><P>The Am. brig <HI REND="italics">Orion</HI>
079.sgm: 40 passengers<HSEP>fare 200</p><P>The Schr.  <HI REND="italics">Constellation</HI>
079.sgm: 30 Col. Zabriskie's Co. 200</p><P>Also one or two small Spanish coasting schooners, 40 passengers in all.  Total number of passengers 460.</p><P>"There is also here the bark <HI REND="italics">Humboldt</HI>
079.sgm:, with coal for Howland &amp; Aspinwall.  I understand that $60,000 have been offered for her, but that she is under bonds of $10,000 to Messrs. H. &amp; A. to return for another freight of coal.</p><P>"The most exorbitant prices are readily paid here for vessels by speculators, who, taking advantage of the scarcity of conveyance and the desire of parties to get away, get any price they choose to demand for the passage.</p><P>"Steerage passages in the steamers have sold readily for $500; and as an example as to how desperately anxious parties here are to get along, and unwilling to risk the uncertainty of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:other means of conveyance, I will state a fact: A gentleman from New-York has actually bought a large canoe, 60 feet long, 8 feet beam, 6 to 7 feet hold, and intends with a party to make the voyage in her.</p><P>"It is the opinion of our Consul and the better-informed emigrants that there will be within a very few days a sufficient number of vessels to take off all who are now remaining.  The U. S. Consul here...informs me that very few vessels have visited this port.  `Not as many in five years as within the past three months,' was his language...."<ANCHOR ID="ni-37">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-37">New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:<P>These are the circumstances McCollum and Hecox describe for us, and in which Hecox decided that he would be better off to return home.  All that made possible the long wait by so many gold-seekers was that the Isthmus had proved healthy beyond all expectation, the "Chagres fever" or "Panama fever" having troubled few, and no sign of the dreaded "black vomito," virulent yellow fever.  Nor, as the best piece of luck in the whole affair, had the spreading, world-wide epidemic of Asiatic cholera yet begun to ravage the Isthmus.  There had been a bad scare in January, when the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, in her first voyage out of New Orleans, had deposited some cholera cases at Chagres; for a while the governmental authorities at Panama had considered enforcing a 40-day quarantine at Chagres on all vessels arriving at that port from the United States.  William Nelson, the American consul at Panama, had written the Secretary of State on January 25 to describe this situation; he had got the order modified so as to apply only to vessels from New Orleans, Navy Bay being designated as the place for the 40-day wait.<ANCHOR ID="ni-38">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Nelson did not think the idea would work, as there were no troops to keep voyagers from spilling ashore.  Perhaps only the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:schooner <HI REND="italics">Florida</HI>
079.sgm:, arriving at Chagres from New Orleans January 30, was affected, the quarantine lasting in that instance for one week.<ANCHOR ID="ni-39">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: It was late in the spring before the cholera, which by that time was ravaging the interior of the United States, gained a foothold on the Isthmus.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-38">Consular Dispatches, Panama, Records of the Department of State, National Archives.  Nelson was American consul at Panama from 1841 to 1849; oddly, only this and a letter of March 24, 1849, dealing with Colonel J. B. Weller's dissatisfaction over arrangements made for the transport of his Mexican Boundary Survey Commission across the Isthmus, reflect the disturbed state of things at Panama in 1849.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-39">See my table of arrivals at Chagres, <HI REND="italics">post</HI>
079.sgm:; and see also the comment in a Chagres letter of January 31, written on board the schooner <HI REND="italics">Sovereign</HI>
079.sgm: from Baltimore in New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:<P>John M. Cushing, who had been one of McCollum's fellow-passengers on the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, in his reminiscences elaborates somewhat upon McCollum's tale of the coming to Panama of the vessel that would carry them, and John M. Letts as well, on to San Francisco.  About the first of April, he says, his friend the Consul learned from Payta that a whaleship had put in there for supplies, and that the Captain had heard so much of the "rush" to California and of the crowds who were on the Isthmus that he had decided to switch from whaling to gold hunting, and would arrive in Panama in a month or so.  "This made lots of people happy though the prospects were slim for getting off yet."  Soon after a letter came along from the captain of the ship at Payta, saying that he would take 250 passengers to California, giving preference to those who had been on the Isthmus longest, the Consul to act as agent for the ship.  "This was good news to those of us who came on the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, as all who came next to us, with many others, had either gone, or had secured passage on the other ships now in the harbor."  Time rolled slowly on; four ships came in, loaded, and departed, and still there was no sign of their deliverance.  But at last she arrived: the ship <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:, in her own bizarre way one of the most notable vessels that figured in the Gold Rush.<ANCHOR ID="ni-40">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-40">These reminiscences, written in 1905, are published in Society of California Pioneers <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Both McCollum and Cushing provide interesting details of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic's</HI>
079.sgm: character and prior history, but the fullest account of her past is given by F. C. Matthews in the <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
079.sgm: of the Society of California Pioneers, October, 1929.  In part, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:Matthews writes: "The ship <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: was a slow sailing, bluff bowed, three masted, full rigged sailing ship engaged in the China trade, and owned by the prominent house of N. L. and G. Griswold of New York.  She was extremely broad for her very short length; was four hundred and thirteen tons register, and could probably take eight or nine hundred tons in storage.</p><P>"Just before the Port of Canton was blockaded in 1840, during the Opium War, she was in that port, loaded with tea and silk.  Captain Doty, who was in command, was very ill when the ship was about ready to sail.  With him, however, was Captain Robert Bennett Forbes of Boston.  Captain Forbes was a partner in the firm of Russell &amp; Company, an American firm located in Whampoa; and as he was very anxious to go home on business, he navigated the ship while Captain Doty made the entire passage lying in a cot swinging over the table in the small cabin.  The trip was tedious and hard, the ship being forty-four days from Macao to Anjer, and the whole run something over one hundred and fifty days.  Probably this was the last and most profitable voyage of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: as a merchant ship.</p><P>"In 1844 she was bought by C. T. Deering for the whaling business, and on June 4, 1844, sailed for Sag Harbor under command of Captain Slate, bound first for the whaling grounds off New Zealand.  She was absent until February 1, 1847, when she arrived at Sag Harbor with one hundred and twenty barrels of sperm oil, twenty-four hundred barrels of whale oil, and ten thousand pounds of bone.</p><P>"She was then sold to Burr &amp; Smith of Warren, R. I., and under command of Captain [Henry] Cleveland, who had his two sons as first and second mates, sailed from Warren on September 16, 1848, for the northwest Pacific where her operations were to commence.  Putting into port at Payta, she found a communication from Mr. Nelson, the American Consul at Panama, stating that there was quite an emigration from Panama to San Francisco, and urging a passenger certainty versus a whaling venture.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>"Having a good supply of provisions on board, Captain Cleveland took the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: to Panama...."<ANCHOR ID="ni-41">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-41">An evidently less reliable account of the antecedents of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:, originally printed in the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
079.sgm:, 1872, is reprinted in T. A. Barry and B. A. Patten, <HI REND="italics">Men and Memories of San Francisco, in the `Spring of '50</HI>
079.sgm:<P>So Cushing relates, she arrived with 150 mules for the British government, as well as several hundred thousand feet of lumber, enough for her own use for berths, and for two more vessels on the way.  "Our Captain was a shrewd old fellow and he made a small fortune in selling to other vessels, water casks, kettles for cooking, beef, pork, hard bread, etc., at the most exorbitant rates.  He was offered two and three hundred dollars for passage, but he refused all offers until all of us were taken."</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: was anything but the rotten old hulk she has sometimes been called; those who took passage in her counted themselves fortunate ever after, especially when they heard of troubles that befell some of the other sailing vessels which shipped out of Panama at this time.  One of her passengers, writing in 1893, recalled: "She came into Panama with a clean, whitewashed height between decks of seven feet in the clear, and sailed away with 280 good, glad men.  The good old ship brought us [to San Francisco] in sixty-four days, and in all that time never a pump-brake manned or called for, never a creak of timber joints and never a smell of rottenness.  Her passage for time was unprecedented, and not often beaten since.<ANCHOR ID="ni-42">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-42">Letter by "R. J. C.," San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
079.sgm:<P>But before we go to sea with the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:, let us have a last look at the shipping situation on the Isthmus prior to the first return of a steamer from San Francisco, the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: on May 4.  A correspondent of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, writing from Chagres on April 30, listed all the vessels then at Panama, with their expected passenger contingent.  These included the ship <HI REND="italics">Humboldt</HI>
079.sgm:, which after all had been sold for the staggering sum of $60,000, with 350 passengers; the ship <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:, 225; the brig <HI REND="italics">Two</HI>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Friends</HI>
079.sgm: (which as it turned out made a horrible voyage), 120; the brig <HI REND="italics">Josephine</HI>
079.sgm:, 80; the brig <HI REND="italics">Soledad</HI>
079.sgm:, 70; the brig <HI REND="italics">Copiapo</HI>
079.sgm:, 100; brig unknown, 100; four schooners, 150; and also "two whale ships, and six other vessels just arrived--enough to convey all the emigrants from the Isthmus to San Francisco."<ANCHOR ID="ni-43">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: The totals are somewhat different, but the effect is the same in a round-up of Panama news afforded by the New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm: of May 19, which names the ship <HI REND="italics">Sylph</HI>
079.sgm: of Fairhaven and the Hamburg ship <HI REND="italics">Sophia</HI>
079.sgm: as among four vessels not yet taken up.  A further report on May 26, with advices from Panama to May 4, said that sufficient sailing vessels were then at Panama to take all the emigrants to the diggings, except those who held the steamer tickets.  Among the ships, the <HI REND="italics">Humboldt</HI>
079.sgm: was advertised to sail May 10, the <HI REND="italics">Sophie</HI>
079.sgm: May 6, the <HI REND="italics">Norman</HI>
079.sgm: May 28, the <HI REND="italics">Circassian</HI>
079.sgm: May 10, and the <HI REND="italics">Howard</HI>
079.sgm: May 20; among the barks, the <HI REND="italics">Sylph</HI>
079.sgm: May 6, the <HI REND="italics">Seymore</HI>
079.sgm: "soon"; and the brig <HI REND="italics">Copiapo</HI>
079.sgm: "soon."  To these might be added "several small craft and schooners," advertised to carry 230 passengers.  And finally "The ship <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:, Cleaveland, master, sailed May 2, for San Francisco, carrying 230 passengers."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-43">New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, May 13, 1849.  The eventual sale of the ship <HI REND="italics">Humboldt</HI>
079.sgm: is reported in the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Daily Crescent</HI>
079.sgm:, June 11, 1849, reprinted in the New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Thus belatedly the shipping resources of the Pacific Ocean were mustered to end that weary season of waiting in Panama, that foregathering at sunrise each morning on the wall of the old town, to search the southern horizon for the sails of an approaching ship--an experience none who underwent it ever forgot.</p><P>vi</p><P>John M. Letts joins with McCollum in picturing the high-hearted departure from Panama in the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:.  On the morning of leavetaking, he says, "bungoes commenced plying between the shore and ship, which was at anchor some five miles out, and at 4 P.M., all the passengers were on board.  The captain was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:still on shore, and there was an intense anxiety manifested.  Many had come on board in feeble health; some who had purchased tickets had died on shore; many on board were so feeble that they were not expected to live.  I was one of the number; we all felt that getting to sea was our only hope, and all eyes were turned toward shore, fearing the captain might be detained.  At half-past five his boat shoved off, when all on board were electrified.  As he neared the ship all who were able prepared to greet him, and some, whose lungs had been considered in a feeble and even precarious state, burst out into the most vociferous acclamations.  The captain mounted the quarter-deck and sung out, `Heave ahead,' when the clanking of the chain and windlass denoted that our anchor was being drawn from its bed.  At half-past six, the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: swung from our moorings, and was headed for the mouth of the `Gulf of Panama.'  Again the shouts were deafening.  No reasonable politician could have wished a greater display of enthusiasm..."</p><P>What the passengers had not bargained for was that the master of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: kept a steady course to the south, paralleling the coast of South America.  McCollum more or less passes this by in his narrative, but Cushing, in his reminiscences, makes too good a tale of it for us to do the same.</p><P>"When we left Panama our course was south by west and for days we followed it without a change, much to the disgust of many of the cabin passengers, of whom there were thirty, and who thought they knew more than the captain.  Everything went along nicely for some twenty days, but still the ship followed the same track.  Some days we would have a nice breeze and then it would die away.  Then for days it seemed as though we would not move at all.  There was many a talk about the course, but no one dared to say a word.  Not a speck appeared in the horizon, not a vessel of any kind showed herself to the hundreds of eyes constantly on the lookout, and there was nothing but sky and water above and around.  We amused ourselves as well as we could, and still kept heading south....</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:the voyage altered tack or sheet.  All hands were happy then, and the `growlers' wanted to see the captain but he could not be found.  All we had to do now was to be happy and wait.  We were headed the right way, every hour was bringing us nearer to the `promised land.'"</p><P>Letts provides a few dates, saying that on May 6 the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: came in sight of snow-capped Chimborazo, and on the 12th reached the Galapagos Islands, passing very near, "But as it was almost sunset, we did not lower our boat."  They crossed the equator, and made one degree south latitude.  "Then standing west, in order to fall in with the trade winds, we reached 110&deg; west longitude.  We then headed north on our course to San Francisco, but there was no wind.  We had a calm for several days, accompanied with rain and mist.  The weather was excessively hot, causing everything on board to mildew.  Our clothes, boots, trunks, &amp;c., were covered with mould.  Those who were sick became worse, and others were attacked.  Our ship rolled about like a log, without sufficient air to cause a ripple.  There was a general uneasiness manifested, and something foreboding in every face; all were indisposed; we felt that there was a destitution of vitality in the atmosphere.  On the 6th of June one of the passengers was attacked with the ship-fever, which immediately proved fatal.  He died at three o'clock in the morning, and at ten was brought out, sewed up in canvas, and laid upon the gang plank.  A bag of sand was tied to his feet, a prayer read, and at the signal, the end of the plank was raised, and he slid gently into his grave.  It being calm, we watched the spot until the last bubble had risen to the surface.  This was to us an afflicting scene; a gloom seemed to rest upon every countenance.  That one of our number should have been taken away by a disease thought to be contagious, and one so malignant in its character, gave rise to emotions of the most painful dejection.  The ship was immediately cleansed, disinfecting fluid was distributed profusely, and we escaped the farther appearance of the disease."</p><P>Letts adds that they soon fell in with the northeast trade <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:winds, which bore them rapidly along, but caused the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: to make so much leeway that on arriving at 38&deg; north latitude, the latitude of San Francisco, they were at 140&deg; west longitude.  They then tacked ship and stood in for the coast of California, having baffling winds and calms for several days, but they fell in with the northwest trades so as to be carried rapidly along.  The wind increased to a gale, described by both Letts and McCollum, which lasted for two days.  The ship laid over, Letts says, "so that her main studding-sail boom touched the water, and on the 1st July the gale carried away our gib [jib].  On the 3d, we discovered weeds and logs floating in the water, indicating our proximity to land."  An observation ascertained that they were 60 miles from San Francisco, which they might expect to make by 8 A.M. next morning.  The passengers all got busy packing up.  "The retorts, crucibles, gold tests, pick-axes, shovels, and tin-pans, are put into a separate bag, and laid on the <HI REND="italics">top</HI>
079.sgm:; each determined to be the first off for the mines.  Each one having conceived a different mode of keeping his gold, one would exhibit an ingenious box with a secret lock, another, a false bottom to his trunk, a fourth a huge belt, while a fifth was at work on the fifteenth buckskin bag, each of 20 lbs. capacity.  All were looking to the glorious future with a faith that would have removed mountains, particularly if they were suspected of having gold concealed underneath."  Fog obscured the scene next morning, but when it burned off soon after noon they found themselves 20 miles north of the Golden Gate.  Not wishing to come to anchor before morning, they shortened sail that night.</p><P>On the morning of July 5 the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: was but a short distance from the Golden Gate, making for it with a fair breeze.  "A large ship was abreast of us, making for the same point.  A schooner spoke us, and wished to pilot us in, but our captain not relishing California prices ($200), declined.<ANCHOR ID="ni-44">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:...We could not have made a more auspicious entrance.  It was a delightful morning, with a fresh breeze, and the tide rushing in at eight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:knots.  When we had made the entrance, we could see through into the inner bay, directly in the centre of which is an island of considerable elevation, which serves as a beacon to inward-bound vessels.  The passage in was entirely without interruption, and the scene most enchanting.  It seemed to us that the gates had been thrown open, and we ushered in to view some fairy scene.  At our left was the little bay of `Saucelito' [Sausalito] (Little Willow), where several vessels were lying cosily under the bank, taking in water....  At our right, the shore is bold, and still further on, a point of considerable elevation juts out into the bay.  The tide is still bearing us along with headlong speed, and we are obliged to take in all sail with the exception of the flying-jib.  As we neared the point we changed our course, making as near it as practicable, and, as we round it, San Francisco is spread out before us, where rides a fleet of two hundred sail.  We feel that we have attained the acme of our ambition, that we have really entered the `Golden Gates.'  We pass along, and passing several vessels, come to the United States man-of-war, <HI REND="italics">Gen. Warren</HI>
079.sgm:.  Our patriotism, at this particular time, was not of a nature to be smothered into silence.  We took off our hats, opened our mouths, and it was soon evident that our lungs had lost none of their vigor by exposure to the sea air.  We passed most of the shipping, and finding a convenient place our captain cried out `haul down the flying jib,' `let go the anchor,' and our ship rounded to, as if willing to rest after a run of sixty-five days."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-44">Cushing also gives an amusing account of this episode.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>Thus the narrative of John Letts, so interesting to compare with that of McCollum.  Various figures are given as to the number of passengers she brought to San Francisco, up to 289, but the Harbor Master's report, listing her arrival as on July 5, 1849, fixes the total at 248.<ANCHOR ID="ni-45">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Cushing places a period to the voyage by saying that a committee of the passengers called upon the Captain to apologize for their treatment of him, and to thank him for his courtesy.  "The Captain was polite but cool, saying only, `Gentlemen; I have nothing to say; your voyage is up; go ashore.'"</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-45">F. C. Matthews, as heretofore cited, p. 136.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>The voyage of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:, too, was up; never again did she see deep water.  From the anchorage off what was called Clark's Point, the first eager passengers were taken ashore by the ship's boats.  A few, like William McCollum, remained aboard some days longer, until they had completed arrangements to leave for the interior.  This brief period as a floating hotel and warehouse accurately forecast the future of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:.  A few months after her arrival, she was sold to parties in San Francisco, who at high tide hauled her close in shore, near what was then the foot of Clay Street at present Sansome, the shoreline then being half a mile west of its location today.  Her masts were taken out, her rigging and some of her ballast removed, piles driven on each side to keep her erect, and she was used as a storehouse, if not quite a storeship.  It is said that the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: thereby earned her owners $20,000 per month for some time, far better than she could have done at sea.<ANCHOR ID="ni-46">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-46">John S. Hittell, <HI REND="italics">A History of the City of San Francisco</HI>
079.sgm:<P>William Kelly inquiring after a friend in February or March of 1850, found his office to be on the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:.  "Her hull was divided into two large warehouses, entered by spacious doorways on the sides, and her bulwarks raised upon about eight feet, affording a range of excellent offices on the deck, at the level of which a wide balcony was carried round, surmounted with a verandah, that was approached by a broad and handsome stairway.  Both stores and offices found tenants at higher rates than tenements of similar dimensions on shore would command...."<ANCHOR ID="ni-47">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: An English artist, Samuel Francis (Frank) Marryat, son of the well-known novelist, arrived in San Francisco about this time and painted a number of water colors of characteristic scenes.  One was afterwards reproduced as a colored lithograph in his book <HI REND="italics">Mountains and Molehills</HI>
079.sgm: (London, 1855), displaying the singular aspect of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: in this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:final phase of her history; in explanation Marryat said: "The front of the city extending rapidly into the sea, as water-lots are filled up with the sand-hills which the steam excavators remove.  This has left many of the old ships, that a year ago were beached as storehouses, in a curious position; for the filled-up space that surrounds them has been built on for some distance, and new streets run between them and the sea, so that a stranger puzzles himself for some time to ascertain how the <HI REND="italics">Apollo</HI>
079.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: became perched in the middle of the street; for although he has heard of ships being thrown up `high and dry,' he has probably sufficient nautical experience to observe that the degree of `height' and `dryness' enjoyed by the <HI REND="italics">Apollo</HI>
079.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: resulted from some other cause than `the fury of the gale.'"<ANCHOR ID="ni-48">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-47">William Kelly, <HI REND="italics">An Excursion to California</HI>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-48">The colored lithograph from the London edition of Marryat's book is reproduced in the Society of California Pioneers <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
079.sgm:<P>This phase of the <HI REND="italics">Niantic's</HI>
079.sgm: varied history ended in San Francisco's fifth great fire, May 4, 1851, when she was burned to the waterline.  On the site was erected a hotel also called the Niantic, the foundation of which rested on what remained of the hull.  At the time, this was regarded as the best hotel in the city.  Gradually the Niantic Hotel lost status, and in 1872 it was torn down to make way for a four-story business block, the Niantic Building.  The tale is that when excavations were being made for the new foundation, workmen found 35 baskets of champagne that had been buried since the fire of 1851.  Although champagne, beyond a certain point, is not improved by age, this wine "had been so completely covered as to be almost excluded from the air, and some of the wine effervesced slightly on uncorking, and was of very fair flavor."  (The brand, a favorite French variety, was Jacquesson Fils.)<ANCHOR ID="ni-49">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-49">Hittell, <HI REND="italics">loc. cit.</HI>
079.sgm:; Barry and Patten, <HI REND="italics">loc. cit</HI>
079.sgm:.  The Boston illustrated periodical, <HI REND="italics">Gleason's Pictorial Drawing-Room Companion</HI>
079.sgm:, in 1851 reproduced not only a view of the great fire in which the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm: was destroyed, but also "Deck of the Ship <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:, at sea," curiously said to have been "sketched for us on the spot by Mr. G. W. Naylor, a passenger, and...drawn by <HI REND="italics">Manning</HI>
079.sgm:.  It represents the ship <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:, just before the dinner hour, while running down the south-east trades, bound for Panama from San Francisco.  Since the artist sketched the same, the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<P>In 1907 a third Niantic Building was erected, and on its Clay Street side, on September 19, 1919, the Historic Landmarks Committee of the Native Sons of the Golden West placed a bronze tablet commemorating the ship and hostelry which had occupied the site.  Bronze does not compare with books in preserving the glory of the world, but those who have read the pages of McCollum, as of Letts and Cushing, may discover with pleasure this small bronze memorial to the past.</p><P>vii</p><P>So at length we have come with William S. McCollum to California.  We shall not follow him about that golden land, sere and sunburnt in the season he saw it, observing only that like so many of the arrivals in California after July 1, he made for Stockton and the Southern Mines in preference to Sacramento and the Northern Mines.  He observed the California scene with a realistic eye, and some sense of irony for the behavior of himself and all others who were caught up in the Gold Rush.  Unlike so many others, he built up no ill-will against California for not having made a wealthy man of him; he looked upon the present and the future of California and saw them fair.  He chose to return home, but he retained a sense of kinship with those who remained in California and were in process of building a commonwealth there.  It is more than appropriate that when after so many years a new edition of his pamphlet appears, California is its place of birth, giving him back to his own home town, which for so many years has not known him.</p><P>McCollum and I together are indebted to Robert Greenwood of the Talisman Press, who was first to feel that his narrative <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:should be revived in another generation.  The unrivaled resources of the Bancroft Library for studies of the Gold Rush in all its aspects, including in this instance a copy of the rare original edition of <HI REND="italics">California As I Saw It</HI>
079.sgm:, have made the new narrative more richly textured and the work more pleasurable; I express my thanks to Dr. George P. Hammond, Director, and my colleagues of the Bancroft and main University libraries.  Mr. Allan R. Ottley of the California State Library, Mr. James de T. Abaijan of the California Historical Society, and Mr. Henry J. Dubester of the Library of Congress made particular searches; and Mr. Lester W. Smith of the Buffalo Historical Society opened essential paths for me, while the Grosvenor Library in Buffalo made available microfilms of Buffalo newspapers.  Personal favors have also been done me by Mrs. Eleanor T. Harris, Mrs. Julia H. Macleod, Mr. Everett D. Graff, Dr. John Barr Tompkins, Mrs. Madeline R. McQuown, Mr. Thomas E. McQuown, and Mrs. Helen H. Bretnor.  Above all, however, I wish to thank Mr. Clarence O. Lewis, Niagara County Historian at the Court House in Lockport, New York, to whom all who read this book are indebted for its wealth of personal information concerning William S. McCollum and his Lockport companions of 1849.</p><P>DALE L. MORGAN</p><P>BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA</p><P>AS I SAW IT.</p><P>ITS NEW CITIES AND VILLAGS; ITS RAPID ACCESSION OF POPULATION; ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, AND PRODUCTIONS.</p><P>PENCILLINGS BY THE WAY</p><P>OF ITS</p><P>GOLD AND GOLD DIGGERS!</p><P>AND</p><P>INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL BY LAND AND WATER.</p><P>BY WILLIAM S. M'COLLUM, M. D.</p><P>A RETURNED ADVENTURER.</p><P>BUFFALO:</p><P>PUBLISHED BY GEORGE H. DERBY &amp; CO.</p><P>1850.</p><P>[Facsimile title-page of <HI REND="italics">California As I Saw It</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P>By William S. M'Collum, M. D., 1850]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Introductory Chapter</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>"GENTLE READER," I think the phrase is, and gentle, patient, and indulgent, you must be, or we shall fall out by the way, in this short journey we propose to make with each other.  I am no author by profession, and should not be one in this small way of practice but for the importunities of friends who wish to have what even a poor narrator has to say of the El Dorado of the Pacific, the gold placers, and all that relates to that distant region.  And beside, this is rather a labor saving operation.  Interest, curiosity, is rife in the public mind, to catch even imperfect glimpses of the Gold Region--the new and far off addition to our glorious (and permanent, let me hope,) Confederacy.  It is easier to write out my narrative, and bring it within the reach of enquiries, than to repeat it so often as I must do, not to unvail to those who so good naturedly importune me.</p><P>The reader will find in this small pamphlet, all that came under my observation, worthy of note, in a journey from Lockport to California--going and returning, via the Isthmus;--commencing on the 28th of January, 1849, and ending on the 15th of February, 1850.</p><P>Truthful description, a faithful relation of events, in the absence of any exaggeration; candid opinions in reference to all I saw and heard; will constitute all the merits that will be claimed for this narrative; that goes out to the public far less prompted by the pride of authorship, than a disposition to gratify the wishes of personal friends.</p><P>In this task, I have been materially aided by the recollections and observations of two of my companions in the adventure, MR. LYMAN BRADLEY, and MAJOR E. W. COOK.  In addition to what I have introduced as theirs, I have had the benefit of their suggestions, and their reflections, in other portions of the work.</p><P>"HO, FOR CALIFORNIA!"--This was the word--this the theme of talk and excitement--as all will remember--during the fore part of the winter of 1848 and 1849.  Partaking of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<illus entity="a079-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>ARRANGEMENT FOR THE EXPEDITION PERFECTED.--LEAVING HOME.--THE HOUR OF DEPARTURE A PAINFUL ONE.--THE PERILS AND DANGERS TO BE SURMOUNTED.--SAD REFLECTIONS.--WEAR OFF AS NEW SCENES ARE ENCOUNTERED; WITH THE EXCITEMENT OF TRAVEL.--NAMES OF THOSE WHO COMPOSED OUR COMPANY.--THE CROWD OF CALIFORNIA ADVENTURERS IN NEW YORK.--ENGAGE PASSAGE.--GO ON BOARD.--LEAVE NEW YORK.--FIRST NIGHT ON SHIP BOARD.--SEA SICKNESS.--ENTER THE GULF STREAM.--PASS CUBA.--SEE THE HIGHLANDS OF THE ISTHMUS.--LAST ANCHOR AT CHAGRES.</p><P>OUR company having completed its organization, and made all things ready for the voyage, a part of us left on the 28th of January, and the rest, a few days after.</p><P>The final departure from home--the sundering of cherished associations--the spontaneous "God bless you," and "farewell," that came from fond hearts--were not unproductive of saddened, chastened feelings.  No one of our picked company, and it was composed of men of fixed purposes, and determined wills, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:, a vessel that was going around Cape Horn; and in arranging our passage in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, for the Isthmus.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: I cannot but smile now, to think how little the wisest of us knew what constituted a necessary California out-fit; to think how few and simple things we required, and how many unnecessary things we obtained.  We had revolving pistols and Bowie-knives, dirks, and other offensive weapons, as if we were so many sons of Mars, instead of what we really were--soldiers and devotees, in the ranks of <HI REND="italics">Mammon</HI>
079.sgm:; as if we were crusaders, and brave and chivalrous knights, instead of diggers and delvers in the dirty earth, in search of "filthy lucre."  And our abundant stores too; we proved ourselves munificent layers in of all that seemed needful, and much that turned out to be superfluous.  But let all this pass:--we turned our superfluous stores to a tolerably good account, and thanks to the "law and order" that exist in California, have preserved our "arms and munitions of war," for future use.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">The <HI REND="italics">John G. Coster</HI>
079.sgm:, announced to sail February 15, 1849, weighed anchor February 24 with 93 passengers aboard, a list of whom appears in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, February 25, 1849.  A compendium of ship arrivals in the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
079.sgm:<DIV>On Monday,February 5th, we went on board the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Our introduction to the ship gave us a glimpse of the "elephant."  There were 303 passengers.</p><ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:<P>The deck was covered with coal dust, snow and mud; California baggage in all its profusion, uniqueness and variety, was piled up in massive layers, or strewed about as if tossed on board with a pitch-fork.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">The <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: had 305 passengers, most of whom are listed in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:<P>All things being in readiness, the steam up, and the planks hauled in we left the wharf at a quarter before 2 o'clock, P.M., with three cheers and three guns, the spontaneous offering of thousands, who had assembled to see us off.  We, who were so far from home, had few friends to bid good bye, but with a large portion of our fellow travellers, it was the same painful ceremony that it had been with us.</p><P>We passed down the beautiful Bay, and pushed out into the broad ocean, the Highlands fading from the view just as darkness was intervening.  There was novelty, excitement, enough to interest us who were going to sea for the first time; there was joyousness, hilarity, buoyant feelings; the making of new acquaintances with those who had become fellow travellers; home even, was forgotten, for a brief season.  But night and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:darkness threw its shadows over our spirits, as well as before our visions.  The "turning in" of course, introduced us to our sleeping accommodations; and here we got a little nearer view of the "elephant."  The tiers of swung hammocks upon our canal packets, are a luxury compared with those contrivances upon the crowded ship.  The berths upon the one, are like those upon the other, only "more so."  In the one case, you have the benefit of a very limited solitude; in the other, there is a species of associated, or treble misery; three are laid alongside of each other, upon successive shelves, rising one above another in close proximity,-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Not poppy or mandrago could medicine<LB>To sweet sleep,"<LB></HI>
079.sgm:</p><P>upon the first trial, in such a place as that in which we were stowed.  Nine men occupied a space of but six feet square.  The farmers in bringing into our villages dead hogs for market, dispose of them with as much regard to their comfort, as dictated the arrangement of our sleeping accommodations.  There were, of us, in the steerage, 160 persons, breathing the confined air over and over again, with only a fresh supply coming down through the open hatchway.  Our company were sad and merry by turns; there was occasionally a little forced gaiety--some laughed that would better have expressed their real feelings by sighing: some were jocose and humorous, who felt more like delivering grave homilies upon the folly of leaving comfortable homes to go gold hunting.  We turned in at 10: some to get a little sleep and dream of home and friends; some to mutter and sigh fitfully between sleeping and waking; nearly all, with disturbed epigastrums, caused as well by the rolling of the ship, as by the horrible stench that came from bilge-water, and a pent up atmosphere.</p><P>We entered the Gulf Stream on the morning of the 6th; for two days we were mostly sea-sick, but few remaining well enough to nurse the invalids.  On the 8th we had passed the Gulf Stream; sea-sickness had mostly subsided; the spirits of all on board were revived; it was warm and pleasant, and our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:ship was having a good run.</p><P>During the night of the 10th, we came near running upon the small island of Inagua.  Man forward cried out, "Breakers ahead," bell rung, the word was given to "back her;" there was an escape from danger, but a narrow one, we had gone within a cable's length of a bluff shore.<ANCHOR ID="n1-3">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: On the  11th, we passed in full view of the Island of Cuba upon one hand, and Cape Hayti upon the other.  On the 12th, we passed the Island of Jamaica, and were crossing the Caribbean Sea.  Here we saw for the first time, the flying fish, rising from the water, ahead of our vessel, and again lighting after flying from 15 to 20 rods; and the porpoise, with which all readers of sea stories are familiar.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3">See Introduction for a fuller account of this near mishap at Little Inagua Island.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>In the forenoon of the 14th, we descried the dim outlines of the highlands of the Isthmus.  As we neared land, and coasted along shore, we had our first view of the luxuriant vegetation of the tropics; the palm, the cocoa; ripe fruits and blossoms, the evidence of perpetual summer.  It was a charming scene for us who had just come from a cold northern clime, where the leaf had fallen, and the bud had been frozen, for long months; when winter had bound the earth and the waters with his strong chains.  We, of extreme Western New York, had, a little over two weeks previous faced the blasts that sweep down from the West, or come up from the North, over the vast expanses of ice that covered the chain of Lakes; and were then fanned by breezes laden with the perfume of fruits and flowers!  The sea was calm, our ships were making good progress, and we revelled under the influences of a bland atmosphere, and in the prospect of soon being relieved from a short sea voyage, to be sure--but one that had lasted quite long enough, for us, fresh water sailors, as we mostly were.  We came in sight of Chagres about four o'clock in the afternoon, and soon after cast anchor in front of the frowning battlements of an old, dilapidated, Spanish Fort.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>CHAGRES.--CHARACTER OF ITS INHABITANTS.--BARGAIN FOR PASSAGE TO GORGONA.--OBSERVATIONS AND EVENTS AT CHAGRES.--PASSAGE UP THE RIVER.--GORGONA.--GOING OVER THE ISTHMUS.--ITS BEAUTIFUL TROPICAL SCENERY.--THE FLOWERS, THE BEASTS, THE BIRDS.--ENGINEERS CAMP.--JOURNEY OVER THE ISTHMUS NOT BESET WITH AS MUCH OF DIFFICULTY AS REPRESENTED.--ARRIVE AT PANAMA.</p><P>Chagres is upon a low, marshy site, elevated but slightly above the level of the waters of the river.  There are from 80 to 100 bamboo huts, covered with palm leaf.  Idleness and sloth meet you at every turn; you feel that you are in the midst of an inferior race of men, enervated by the climate, whom bountiful nature has made stolid and indolent, by exempting them from the necessity of enterprise and industry.  Labor--delve or starve--work or die;--these seem sometimes, to the unreflecting, arbitrary requirements; and yet, how forcibly we are often reminded how necessary they are to the working out of the higher purposes and destinies of man!  The natives of this portion of the New Grenada,<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: are a mixture of the Spanish, Indian, and African.  They are nearly as black as African negroes, but better formed; the females especially, have good forms, and many of them good expressions of countenance.  The usual dress of the men is a straw hat, linen shirt and trousers, with sandals of raw hide upon their feet.  The women are slightly, but neatly dressed.  They are a civil people, and generally honest, as our company, and most who have entrusted them with property as carriers across the Isthmus, will attest.  They are the descendants of the Spaniards who formerly possessed New Grenada, their slaves whom they transported from Mozambique, or the east coast of Africa, and the native Indians.  In those in whom the African blood predominated, the features were far more regular than those that characterize that race in our country.  The specimens of the pure native Indians that we saw, were admirable; they had fine forms, and generally, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:pleasing and expressive countenances.</p><P>While on ship board several large canoes, or "dug outs," as they would be called upon our western waters, approached us, the crews of them disposed to chaffer with us for our passage, and the transportation of our baggage, to Gorgona.  The <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, and two other vessels arrived on the  13th [14th], with many California adventurers, and altogether we made such a crowd as had seldom been seen in this, until recently, unfrequented spot.<ANCHOR ID="n2-5">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: The next day after our arrival, twelve of our company, proceeded up the river in small canoes, the remainder, of whom I was one, staying behind to accompany the baggage.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">Panama, which established its independence with aid from the United States in 1903-1904, was probably first visited by Rodrigo de Bastidas in 1501-1502.  The first permanent settlement, Darie&acute;n, was founded in 1510 by Marti&acute;n Ferna&acute;ndez de Enciso.  He was ousted by Vasco Nun&tilde;ez de Balboa, who explored the Isthmus and in 1513 discovered the "South Sea," the Pacific Ocean.  In 1739, at the time of the creation of the viceroyalty of Nueva Granada, Panama was placed under its administration.  When Spain was eventually expelled from the American mainland, Panama continued as a province in the Nueva Granada (Colombia) federation.  An abortive effort at secession in 1841 was followed by many others until the establishment of the Republic, the independence of which was at last recognized by Colombia in 1922.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-5">The other vessels mentioned by McCollum were the brig <HI REND="italics">Winthrop</HI>
079.sgm: and the bark <HI REND="italics">Marietta</HI>
079.sgm:<P>We did not get our baggage all on shore till Friday afternoon [February 16].  We had bargained for our passage, and the transportation of our goods to Gorgona--agreeing to pay $150 for canoe and men, but we took in some partners that reduced our expenses to about $80.  Our impatience to get ahead, was tantalized with delay; it seemed unnecessary--the result of sheer laziness on the part of the free and easy Granadians.  It was provoking to see with what stoicism they resisted our urgent importunities.  They seemed strangers to haste, and could not appreciate Yankee anxiety to get ahead--to keep moving.  All the gold of California would not induce them to be in a hurry; though they were beginning to catch the spirit of gain, and were becoming pretty hard men to bargain with.  It was a god-send, the discovery of gold in California and the making of the Isthmus one of the principal routes of adventurers; to the inhabitants of this small town; and they were getting disposed to make it available.  But I should like to see the experiment; to see a community of genuine Yankees enjoy the monopoly of a few canoes, to transport a crowd of eager adventurers, willing to pay almost any price to get ahead: I opine, there would be such fleecing and extortion as the Isthmus has not yet witnessed.</p><P>The delay in starting gave us some opportunity to see more of the new and strange people we had fallen among.  They were "dwellers in tents;" theirs was about the simplest and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:most primitive state of human society; and yet, they were cheerful and happy.  They were Catholics, by inheritance, from their Spanish ancestors; the amulets that their superstition taught them would be their mysterious guardians, were suspended about their necks, and here and there, were the rude witnesses of their implicit faith.  Maternal affection!  How pervading--how everywhere present--how little modified or abated, by color or clime, by degrees of civilization and refinement; Here, in this isolated spot, upon the outskirts of a nation, or people, at least, having but little claim to all that education and improvement can effect, it was yearning as intensely, bestowing gifts of the heart as freely--and may we not say, even more spontaneously--than in the far more pretending and higher walks of life?  Under a palm leaf shelter, open to the view upon all sides, lay the corpse of a young child awaiting burial.  In its hands were bouquets of beautiful white flowers; the same emblems of hope and promise, were strewed over it, and wreathed upon its forehead.  Burning tapers were ranged upon each side of it, and a crucifix was laid upon its breast.  The mother, a personification of grief and bereavement, chastened by religious faith, sat by its side, the chief mourner; her suppressed sighs occasionally, becoming audible--her full heart gushing out in wailings and lamentations, that made even us, strangers and foreigners, deeply commiserate her sore afflictions.  I thought better of the swarthy Granadians, after being a witness to such a scene.<ANCHOR ID="n2-6">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><P>Near the town was a rivulet of swift clear water, in which we enjoyed the luxury of a bath--and a luxury it was, especially to us, who had began to feel the necessity of ablution, after being crowded together for nine days, in such a sleeping apartment as I have described.  There were scores of women in the clear running water, washing clothes by immersing, and then pounding them; they were spread out, dried, and sprinkled occasionally, as in the process of bleaching.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-6">Theodore T. Johnson, McCollum's fellow-passenger in the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, mentions an encounter with "the tall and stately <HI REND="italics">padre</HI>
079.sgm: of the town, arrayed in his priestly robes of rich black silk and shovel-sombrero.  As he passed, every one bowed respectfully, and he returned all with courtesy.  He was going to attend the funeral of a child said to have died from the bite of a centipede--a most unusual, and even in this instance, doubtful circumstance."  Theodore T. Johnson, <HI REND="italics">Sights in the Gold Region</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The principal object of interest in and about Chagres, is the old fortress or castle, that marks the period of Spanish occupancy.--Although much dilapidated and defaced, it bears many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:evidences of substantial and beautiful architecture.  The gates are off, the guns dismounted, many of them lying upon the beach, having been thrown from the walls.  The massive walls, from fifty to sixty feet high, command the bay and entrance to the river.  Its watch towers, that were once undoubtedly, the pride of the Spanish Cavaliers, look lone and desolate.  Little use have successive generations of the present occupants of this region had for strong defences, such as this must have been.<ANCHOR ID="n2-7">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><P>Saturday night, we had a soaking rain, and we were without shelter to protect us from it.  I crawled with my wet clothes into a wet hammock, and paid two shillings for the hydropathic treatment.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-7"><P>Chagres, about 8 miles west of modern Colo&acute;n, has a history dating from 1502, Columbus having discovered the port on his fourth voyage.  Later in the century the port was opened for traffic with Panama, and in the 18th century it became the chief Atlantic terminus of Isthmus commerce.  Decline set in before 1800 as the economy of the Isthmus degenerated, and though there was a revival during the Gold Rush, after the completion of the Panama Railway in 1855 Chagres relapsed into a scattering of mud huts, fittingly watched over by the ruined fort of San Lorenzo.</p><P>This fort, atop a 150-foot-high rock on the right bank of the Chagres River at its mouth, was originally built as a part of the general strengthening of the defenses of the Isthmus brought about by the forays of Francis Drake; the site was selected in 1595, and two years later artisans were sent out from Spain for the work.  Though San Lorenzo was captured by the buccaneer Henry Morgan late in 1670, and destroyed by him early in 1671, it was immediately rebuilt.  The fort was again captured by British forces under Admiral Edward Vernon in 1740, during the "War of Jenkins' Ear," but this was the last signal event of its history.  Most of the Forty-niners who passed through Chagres examined the fort in the exercise of their inalienable rights as sight-seers.  Theodore Johnson, for one, found within it "numerous old cannon, mostly dismounted and covered with rust," on some of which could be deciphered "the date 1745, with the Royal Arms of Spain."  A few brass cannon, in better preservation, he noted within the main citadel, along with "some damp and useless old powder."  Johnson, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:., p. 11.  John M. Letts, who also visited the fort at this time, like many other artists among the Forty-niners sketched its interior as well as its aspect from the sea; see his <HI REND="italics">California Illustrated</HI>
079.sgm:<P>We finally got off, early on Sunday morning [February 18].  Our canoe was forty feet long, and four feet wide in the clear, hollowed out from the huge trunk of a bay mahogany tree.  Its load consisted of fourteen passengers, six or seven tons of baggage, a steersman, and eight oarsmen.  Our progress was but two and a half or three miles an hour.  About three o'clock, P.M., our slow and easy transporters, hauled the boat up <HI REND="italics">for night</HI>
079.sgm:, lit a fire, cooked their supper, and smoked their pipes as leisurely as Turks, forgetting that there was gold in California, and that we were in full chase for it.  The place was called the rancho of Palanqua<ANCHOR ID="n2-8">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: --which we found to mean two or three huts, a Granadian and his wife, a small cleared spot and a few cattle.  The next day [February 19], although we had an early start, we went but twelve miles; the current in many places was so rapid that the oars had to be laid aside, and poles substituted.--We encamped upon the bank, where there was a growth of vegetation exceeding anything I ever witnessed; the blue grass was higher than the backs of the droves of fat and sleek cattle that were roving among it.  The cattle were of a variety of colors with high and finely turned horns.  The next morning [February 20] we started just before day break,--the atmosphere was bland, the stars, with a brilliancy that we had before been unaccustomed to see, were shining out upon the gorgeous landscape.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-8">The more usual contemporary spelling was Palenquilla.  Theodore Johnson called it "a picturesque little hamlet on an elevated and level part of the shore.  Near it we saw a large and beautiful plantation filled with sugar cane while above and below, the margin of the river was gorgeous with every variety of tree, leaf, and plant, perfectly overgrown with vines bearing exquisite flowers...."  Johnson, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:., p. 23.  E. L. Autenrieth, in the text accompanying his <HI REND="italics">A Topographical Map of the Isthmus of Panama, together with a separate and enlarged map of the lines of travel, and a map of the City of Panama</HI>
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079.sgm:been bit by some poisonous insect, and had a badly swelled and painful hand.<ANCHOR ID="n2-9">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-9">On our return, in crossing the Isthmus, we passed some natives carrying a box, in which were the remains of Mrs. Simmons.  She had died at San Francisco, and her husband was performing the sad office of carrying her remains home for burial.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-9">"Capt. Simmons and lady" were included in the passenger list of the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: as printed in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, February 2, 1849.  The Simmons family, like Theodore Johnson, went on to San Francisco in the steamship <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:.  When Johnson returned to San Francisco from the mines in late April, 1849, as he wrote, "we were greatly grieved to hear of the demise of Mrs. Simmons, a lady of transcendant piety, amiability, and worth, who, with her husband, Captain Simmons, accompanied by her brother, had been our fellow passengers in the steamer <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:. She was the first American lady who died in San Francisco, having fallen a victim to the Panama fever, and poetry would be too hackneyed to express her excellence."  Johnson, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:., pp. 195-196. A correspondent in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of June 25, 1849, writing from San Francisco April 26, tells of Mrs. Simmons' death, saying she was from Woodstock, Vermont, the wife of Captain B. Simmons, late master of the ship <HI REND="italics">Magnolia</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Half the way from Chagres to Gorgona, the river is from a quarter to a half mile wide; it narrows as you ascend, in some places before reaching Gorgona, it is not over 25 or 30 yards wide.  The valley is wide, but ranges of mountains rise from it upon either hand.  The banks of the river are from six to twelve, and sometimes twenty feet high.  They are skirted with beautiful timber trees, rich foliage, and dense, tall herbage.  Droves of cattle were often emerging from the woods, and coming down to the water; alligators were occasionally stretched out upon the banks; monkeys were chattering and skipping from branch to branch; parrots, of different species and variegated plumage, were flitting around, and uttering unmusical sounds.  We were constantly reminded of descriptions we had read of the scenery of the Nile.</p><P>Gorgona is located upon a bend of the river, from which a fine view of the river and valley is obtained.  The valley is here about five miles wide, the mountains rising from it in successive ranges, and with increasing elevations.  It is an admirable location for a town, and must become one of considerable importance--especially should it be on the route of the proposed rail road across the Isthmus.  It has a far better appearance than Chagres; the streets are laid out with some pretensions to regularity.  It is the head of canoe navigation, and steamboats of light draft can approach it.  The dwellings or huts are of a better class than those at Chagres; they have an unfinished Catholic church that looks rude and ragged, but nevertheless, it is a church.  The carrying trade is now almost the only business pursued by its inhabitants; what they did before the gold of California began to invite a swarm of adventurers across the Isthmus, the town is more than I could divine.  Theirs must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:have been as near a pastoral or primitive life, as any that can be seen in our day.  The soil is teeming with the evidences of its richness--inviting the hand of man to its cultivation, by showing what it is capable of doing without it--but it is undisturbed, save in a few stinted spots of less size than our ordinary kitchen gardens.  All else is left to spontaneous production.  They have herds of cattle; these, with game, flesh, fish, fowl, easily procured, must have been their principal sustenance.  But it is with them as with the rest of the world, wants increase with the facilities for gratifying them.  They are rapidly changing their habits since they have an opportunity to earn money, and luxuries that they have been strangers to, are brought within their means and their reach.</p><P>There are two establishments in the place that are dignified with high sounding names--and the Granadians have tall names for almost everything.  One is called the "Hotel Francois," and the other, the "Hotel Americano, &amp; Espannal."  The last named is kept by the Alcalde of the place, a high functionary.  He is a mixture of Spanish and Indian; in his wife the African predominates.  They have nineteen children of all shades, colors and complexions.  The hotel is a one story hut, the wall of bamboo, plastered with clay; no glass in the windows; there is no such luxury upon this part of the Isthmus.<ANCHOR ID="n2-10">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-10">Gorgona, "the place of rocks," as Theodore Johnson says, was the principal terminus on the upper Chagres for dry-season travel, though Cruces, some miles higher up, attracted most of the rainy-season travel.  Autenrieth advises that one could find at Gorgona "two or three good hotels to rest and recruit in for the next day's journey over land.  Miller's Hotel and the French Hotel are kept as well as is possible in such a secluded place."  He adds: "The Spanish and American house, kept by the former Alcalde, is very highly spoken of"--which shows that he had not read Johnson's book.  Johnson took up his abode with "the Alcalde, or chief magistrate of the town; who, besides being the richest man, was notorious as the greatest rascal and cheat in Gorgona.  [He] was a mixture of Spanish and negro, wore spectacles for dignity, and was deaf for convenience...."  Not long able to abide the Alcalde's establishment, which he pungently describes, Johnson boarded for most of his Gorgona stay at "an old hut in another part of the village, occupied by a live Yankee named John Smith...."  Johnson, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:<P>I should have mentioned in its appropriate place, that the Chagres river abounds in fine fish.  We could see them but could not catch them.  We had those of our company who could bait a hook and cast a line, like true disciples of Isaac Walton, but the fish of the Isthmus could not be induced to take their hooks.  They seemed, happily for them, strangers to that species of martyrdom.  And yet their shyness of the hook puzzled us much, for they would catch with avidity crackers, bits of beef, &amp;c., that were thrown to them.</p><P>We stayed at Gorgona three days [to February 23], some of our company longer.  There was very little use in being in a hurry, for we had heard that we should get no immediate passage from Panama, and we were in hopes that mule transportation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:family of emigrants making their way through deep untrodden snow, and sleeping at night by camp fires, exposed to all the rigors of a northern winter.</p><P>The road across the Isthmus is but a mule path, as all readers of California adventures have been told; and a very narrow one at that.  The traveller is almost continually in the shade of the dense and dark green woods.  Occasionally he gains an eminence from which he can look out upon a widespread panorama of successive ranges of mountains, deep vallies, and interminable forests; there he plunges again into the "darkling wood," where he cannot look out even by looking up.</p><P>I have often wished that friends at home could have seen us with our California outfit--rifle in hand, and haversack at our sides--leisurely threading our way over this narrow pass that was leading us to the "golden gates" of El Dorado; or bivouac [k] ing at night upon the ground, in our blankets and rubber <HI REND="italics">ponchos</HI>
079.sgm:.</p><P>We chatted and whistled, sung and halloed, the echo of our voices coming back to us from the deep recesses of the forest,--just as suited each one's fancy.  We were enjoying the "freedom of the woods."  The herbage, the flowers, the ripe fruits of a perpetual summer were around about us.  The atmosphere was bland and pure; here and there growing in all their native luxuriance, were the green house plants that we cultivate with so much care, and so much admire.  With us, they are stinted and feeble exotics--there, they were in all the perfection, size and beauty, that nature intended.  I fear to give such a description as they would bear, lest I should discourage the cultivation of them, which I should regret; for if we cannot have them in perfection, let us have what we can get of them.</p><P>It was truly a romantic excursion, and one which we shall long remember.  In the midst of scenery that was new to us--that which we had read of, but of which we had formed but imperfect ideas--there were quadrupeds and birds, such as we had only seen before, imprisoned, "robbed of their perfections," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:in travelling menageries.  There were different species of parrots and paraquets; in their beautiful colors of red and green; some of them large as our partridges; there were two kinds of pigeons of small size, one of them not unlike our mourning doves; and a great variety of small singing birds, and game birds, such as curlews, snipes and plover.  There were of beasts of game, the deer, hare, squirrel and wild hog.  The latter are somewhat dangerous; they will often, when in droves, attack men and force them to take to the trees.  There were, also, the cougar, a small striped tiger [jaguar], the hyena, and a kind of monkey peculiar to that region.  I have mentioned these beasts and birds as those common upon the Isthmus--not that we saw all of them, but we saw many that I have named.  The bay of Panama abounds with pelicans, and an endless variety of water fowls, many of them peculiar to that region.  The rock islands in the bay are white with their excrements, or guano.</p><P>We were out but one night in crossing the Isthmus, encamping upon the summit of the narrow ridge that separates the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific.  There we found a corps of Engineers, encamped, surveying a route for a rail road across the Isthmus.--They were our countrymen, glad to see us--hospitable, and willing to impart to us such information as they possessed that would be likely to benefit us.<ANCHOR ID="n2-11">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-11"><P>The United States having obtained right of transit across the Isthmus by treaty with New Granada in 1846, the Secretary of the Navy in 1848 entered into contracts for the construction of five mail steamers to run between East Coast ports and Chagres, and three to run between Panama and Oregon (San Francisco was made the principal terminus later).  The existence of these steamers, as we have seen in the Introduction, primarily justified choice by Forty-niners of the Isthmus route to the gold fields.  An immediate corollary of the establishment of the steamship routes was seen to be the building of a railroad across the Isthmus, and in December, 1848, the Panama Railroad Company obtained a charter from New Granada for the construction and maintenance of such a road.  This company was not incorporated by the New York legislature till April, 1849, but meanwhile an engineering expedition was sent to the Isthmus by the Company's moving spirits, William Aspinwall, Henry Chauncey, and John L. Stephens.  Most of the engineers sailed from New York January 23, 1849, in the bark <HI REND="italics">Templeton</HI>
079.sgm:, reaching Chagres February 6.  As set forth in the New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:, February 3, 1849, the force was made up of a Chagres Division under William Norris, Principal Engineer, with John May and E. W. Serrell as 1st Assistants and George Wolcott and George Stoddard as 2nd Assistants; and a Panama Division under W. H. Sidell, Principal Engineer, with Captain Lloyd Tilghman and J. L. Baldwin as 1st Assistants and J. H. Mandeville and J. Williams as 2nd Assistants.  Dr. M. B. Halsted was surgeon.  Sidell, whose manuscript journal of the Survey, January 9-June 23, 1849, is now preserved in the Canal Zone Library at Balboa Heights, stayed behind to sail in the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:; it was his division, still commanded by Captain Tilghman (as mentioned by Theodore Johnson), that McCollum encountered west of Gorgona.  The New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, March 25, 1849, contains a long letter from Panama, February 15, 1849, by one who had sailed on the <HI REND="italics">Templeton</HI>
079.sgm: with the engineers, and this correspondent also lists many of the personnel.  Another letter in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of May 16, 1849, written from Gorgona April 24, tells of accompanying the engineers to Mandingo Bay.  Their eventual return to New York in the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: is reported in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of June 24, 1849.</p><P>The preliminary labors of the engineers, between February 10 and May 25, 1849, are touched upon only lightly by F. N. Otis, <HI REND="italics">History of the Panama Railroad</HI>
079.sgm: (New York, 1867), who also does not mention what we learn from Lockport sources, that McCollum in the early 1850's served for a time as surgeon during the building of the railroad.  They are, however, summed up in a communication by Chief Engineer George W. Hughes, June 10, 1849, printed in 30th Congress, 2nd Session, <HI REND="italics">House Report 145</HI>
079.sgm:<P>To within nine miles of Panama, it is a dense native forest; after that, there are frequent evidences of ancient Spanish occupancy,--crumbling brick walls, tiles scattered about, and groves of second growth forest trees.  There are several ranchos where refreshments can be obtained, between the summit and Panama.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>FIRST VIEW OF PANAMA AND THE PACIFIC.--THE NEW INTEREST THE ISTHMUS HAS ACQUIRED.--SETTLING DOWN FOR A LONG STAY.--THE THRONG OF ADVENTURERS ON THE ISTHMUS.--THE NEW CITY OF PANAMA.--MY COMPANION'S DESCRIPTION.--THE NATIVES COURTEOUS AND OBLIGING.--THE WOMEN SHOPKEEPERS.--OUR NEWLY ACQUIRED BAD SPANISH.--SMALL COMMERCE AND BUSINESS OF PANAMA.--ISLAND OF TOBAGO.--BOWLING GAME.--THE PADRE; HIS DOMESTIC ESTABLISHMENT.--TROPICAL PRODUCTIONS.--PINE APPLE, ITS CULTIVATION.--FISH.--FISHING FOWLS.--SEA ANEMONE.--WHALES, SHARKS AND PORPOISES.--HISTORICAL INTEREST OF THE ISTHMUS.--ITS SPANISH OCCUPANTS.--OLD PANAMA.--A CITY IN THE WOODS.--THE NEW AND THE OLD WORLD.--WILD BOAR, AND WILD HOGS.--CATTLE.--FOWLS.--LIVE FENCES.--AMATEUR SPORTSMEN.--TURKEY BUZZARDS.--HOW WE SPENT OUR TIME.--A ROW.--NEWS OF A VESSEL.--SECURED A PASSAGE.--MORE DELAY.--OFF AT LAST.</p><P>We arrived at Panama on the 24th day of February--some of our party having preceded us.  On arriving within three miles of the city we saw the spires of the Cathedral, and a fatiguing walk--as the last three miles of a journey is apt to be--brought us to the city and gave us our first view of the waters of the Pacific.</p><P>The readers of newspapers have been surfeited with descriptions of this halting and waiting place of California adventurers.  It is but within a short time that it has become a place of interest, or one of which the people of the United States possessed much knowledge.  It once had a little celebrity, as the place of meeting of a Congress of American Republics; an interest, which was much enhanced in Western New York, from the fact that an esteemed fellow citizen, the late Hon. Wm. B. Rochester, acted as Secretary of the U. S. Delegation.  This was during the Presidency of John Quincy Adams.<ANCHOR ID="n3-12">*</ANCHOR>
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079.sgm:him are among my early recollections.  All that, however, had faded from the public mind until California gold began to induce searchings upon the maps--such studies of geography as had never before been seen out of the schools,--to find a short route for avarice to reach its promised easily acquired abundance.  Yet I must not pass it by in these imperfect sketches, for it was a marked spot in our journey.  It was where we were obliged to stay for long and tedious weeks, exposed to diseases incident to the unacclimated--with a feverish impatience to be getting on to the promised land.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-12">The Congress of American Nations convened at Panama June 22, 1826.  The only American nations represented were Colombia, Central America, Peru, and Mexico, though the United States sent plenipotientiaries to act as observers.  The vain hope, fostered by Boli&acute;var, was that a union might be effected of the republics which had lately won their independence from Spain.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>Our first business was to rent two small rooms, for which we paid two dollars per day, and we were soon keeping bachelor's hall, taking turns in the duties of marketing and cooking.  Provisions were plenty; timely supplies having reached there when the rush of adventurers came, and would have soon created a famine; but the inhabitants awaked as from sleep--emerging from a dreamy existence, by the clatter, bustle and excitement of an army of visitors that came to them through an unfrequented avenue; had caught the spirit of gain--with a true Yankee intuition, had discovered their advantages, and were exorbitant in their prices of everything we were obliged to buy.  There were at this time not less than one thousand awaiting a passage to San Francisco, and the number was more than doubled before there began to be any considerable despatches.</p><P>The present city of Panama--the NEW one, it is called, though it is rather the remains of an old city, more than half depopulated than having any claims to <HI REND="italics">newness</HI>
079.sgm: --is at the head of the Gulf of Panama.</p><P>I had written out my own recollections of the place, but they were imperfect, and I have therefore, in part, substituted the recollections and faithful description, of one of our company, C. J. Fox, Esq., contained in sketches of "California Experience," which he has published in the <HI REND="italics">Niagara Cataract</HI>
079.sgm:, of which he is the editor:--</p><P>"The harbor of the city of Panama is not so good or convenient as that of the old one, vessels being obliged to lay off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:several miles for secure anchorage in consequence of the shoal water for some distance from the beach.  The appearance of the bay from the walls of the city is very beautiful.  On the right it is studded with small Islands from which the city receives its principal supply of fruits and vegetables.</p><P>The walled part of the city is on a point of land surrounded by the waters of the bay, on the north, east and south sides.  The bay, however, in which there is any depth of water, and where the shipping visiting that port, anchor is on the east side of the city.  The present location of the city was undoubtedly selected for security from attacks by sea.  The main portion of the city in which is located the public buildings, churches, &amp;c., is surrounded by a massive wall, with a gate opening upon the sea on the east, and one towards the country on the west.  On the walls fronting the sea are still remaining several pieces of brass cannon which have stood so long useless that their carriages have rotted away and become unserviceable.  Most of the business of the city is done within the walls; the circumference of which is from one and a half to two miles, and which contains, perhaps 3000 inhabitants.</p><P>About a mile west of the city is a high hill completely commanding it, upon which Bolivar is said to have planted his cannon when he took the city some 30 years ago.</p><ANCHOR ID="n3-13">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:<P>Between this hill and the walls are the suburbs of the city, in population nearly equalling that within the walls.  The buildings of the city are mostly of brick and stone three stories high and built in a style peculiar to their age and the national character of the inhabitants at the time.  Three fourths of the front rooms of the basement stories are occupied as small stores or grog shops, which the women have charge of almost exclusively; the basement generally has an open court with a hall leading through into the stables, out-houses, &amp;c.  The floors of the basement are all brick or stone, the rooms above are generally large and well ventilated, with the usual number of windows, which are open and shut with blinds, the article of window glass being entirely unknown.  The roofs are all made of the old fashioned tile, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:making them fire proof as well as water proof.  Nearly every house has a balcony in the front and rear.  The streets are narrow and generally paved, with gutters for the water to run off in, in the centre; the side walks are scarcely four feet wide, the whole being very rough and uneven.  The streets and pavements bear sufficient evidence that they were never intended for, as they never have been used by wheel carriages; everything being carried on pack mules and an inferior kind of a horse or pony, or on the backs of the natives.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-13">Simon Boli&acute;var, the Liberator of much of South America, was the hero of more than 200 battles between 1813 and 1830, when he died, but he never trained a gun on the city of Panama.  John M. Letts, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:<P>In the centre of the walled portion of the city, is the grand Plaza or public square of several acres, surrounded on the west by the Cathedral, on the south by the old house of Representatives, and on the north by a Seminary, the principal street is that of Calle de la Merced, extending from the gate opening upon the sea in the east, to the Puerta de Tierra, the principal gate leading to the country in the west.<ANCHOR ID="n3-14">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: It presents quite a business-like appearance about these days, being surrounded with Americans who make it a kind of Broadway.  The business and general appearance of the city have undergone quite a change since the emigration to California commenced.  It will soon bear marks of Yankee enterprise which will astonish the natives.  Should the California fever continue a few years, there will be abundant opportunities here for making fortunes.  The people appear to be in everything at least half a century behind the age.  The mechanics of all classes have few of the improvements of modern times.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-14">A street-plan of the city of Panama as of this time is included in E. L. Autenrieth's work, cited in Note 8.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>There are several English merchants in business here, who have to a very limited extent introduced articles of European manufacture for various uses.  The streets are generally quite filthy, which in some seasons I should think would make the city very unhealthy.  The water used for drinking, cooking, &amp;c., is brought from wells, springs, &amp;c., about a mile out of the city.</p><P>The whole city is but the spectre of its former greatness.  In the days of its glory it was undoubtedly a magnificent place, in which great wealth, with all the luxuries, the refinements and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:the vices of the Grandees of Old Spain were concentrated.  Its general appearance at the present time gives abundant proof of this but the whole city is now one extensive ruin.  The walls of many large and magnificent buildings, several of them churches upon which immense amounts of money were once expended, are still standing in every direction throughout the city as monuments of their former grandeur, and the extravagance of the age in which they flourished.  The buildings which still stand and are occupied by the inhabitants, are dilapidated and bear marks of the ravages of many years past.  The idea of re-building a house destroyed by fire or making any repairs as the natural decay of time would require, does not appear to have entered the heads of the present generation.</p><P>A large majority of the inhabitants of the city are a mixture of Indian and negro, who were slaves before the province of New Grenada gained its independence, and the people drove off their Spanish masters.  There are, however, now many Spaniards residing here who have returned since the revolution."</p><P>The Spaniards mostly fill the government offices, and form the principal portion of the trading and business men of the place, and are socially, the aristocracy, the unmixed descendants of those who occupied the spot in the days of its glory and grandeur.  Those who inhabit the suburbs and tributary neighborhoods, are of the mixed blood that has been named--are a species of peasantry, cultivate small patches of ground, raise a little poultry,--and are the market men in a men [ <HI REND="italics">sic</HI>
079.sgm: ], in a small way.  We found not only the public officers, but the people generally civil and accommodating.  They seemed pleased with the influx of strangers, and well they might be, for it was scattering gold among them almost as broadcast, as it is in the soil of California.  The merchants['] stores contained tolerable assortments of goods.  The soldiers that my friend Fox speaks of, looked as if they were the descendants of Falstaff's company.  They went through the manual exercise every day, and their musicians had a passion for drumming and fifing, carried it to an extent that made it a great annoyance.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:It was a lazy life they were leading, and it was putting them to much better use when they were sent to mend the road from Cruces to Panama.  The shops were mostly kept by Spanish women, all vivacious, and rather pleasing in their manners.  We could address them only in our newly acquired Spanish, and of course made awkward work of it.  I have no doubt that even now they are repeating rich anecdotes of some of our unfortunate mistakes in the use of their language.  Those of our company who wished to appear pretty well in the eyes of the dark haired senoras of the Isthmus, wrote down, and conned over their lessons of gallantry.</p><P>Before the discovery of gold in California, Panama was but the occasional stopping place of whale ships; their local commerce was of but trifling magnitude; and travellers across the Isthmus must have been "few and far between."  The British miners of Chili and Peru, have hitherto been the most frequent visitors of Panama.  Convoys of mules have come monthly over the Isthmus with their gold and silver.  There are not more than fifty acres of cultivated land in the immediate vicinity of the city.</p><P>Among the Islands of the Bay, near the city of Panama, is that of Tabago [Taboga].<ANCHOR ID="n3-15">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: It is about twelve miles distant.  It is about ten miles long by four wide; mountainous, some of the peaks being elevated five hundred feet above the waters of the Bay.  Detached parties of those awaiting a passage, were often out there for sport and recreation; six of our company with others, mostly invalids, remained there a week.  There is a village upon the island, of from three to four hundred Spaniards, and those of mixed blood.  The padre, (priest), was a sleek haired Indian, an exquisite in his way.  During the Sunday that we were there, after mass, a large number of the islanders played an unique game, the name of which has escaped my memory.  It was a species of bowling game, the earth being used instead of an alley.  Pins were set up, and sticks, resembling rolling pins, were trundled upon the ground to knock them down.  It was a gambling game, as we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:discovered; the <HI REND="italics">padre</HI>
079.sgm: played with great avidity, and bet freely.  I was compelled to think that he was too much a man of the world for his cloth.  Women and children formed a part of his domestic establishment.  The women were asked whose children they were: " <HI REND="italics">quien sabe</HI>
079.sgm: " was the reply,--" <HI REND="italics">who knows</HI>
079.sgm:?"</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-15">The off-shore islands, Taboga and Taboguilla, were regarded by the Forty-niners as rather more attractive than Panama itself.  James Delavan, in his <HI REND="italics">Notes on California and the Placers</HI>
079.sgm:....  (New York, 1850), p. 19, said of Taboga, "This is a beautiful island, the largest in the bay; very productive, supplying Panama with vast quantities of the choicest fruit and vegetables.  Vessels always water here, as Panama is deficient in that necessary; being itself supplied in a great measure from fountains, some three miles distant, by means of water-carriers, with their mules."  Similar remarks are made by John M. Letts, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:., p. 37, and by Theodore Johnson, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:<P>It was a delightful, salubrious spot--"hot as blazes" to be sure, but fanned by gentle sea breezes, and therefore not unhealthful.  There were groves of orange and tamarind trees, flowering shrubs and vines, melons, corn, tomatoes, beans, and pine apples, cultivated in small patches.  The pine apple is produced here in perfection; it is cultivated by setting shoots in the ground, from which there are successive growths of the fruit.  In some spots, fine fruit was growing where there had been no artificial cultivation for years.  There was a climbing of trees by the natives that attracted our attention: they would go up a tall cocoa tree with their hands and feet, keeping the body detached from the tree, instead of hugging it, as in our manner of climbing.  The natives of the Island take a species of fish that they call the gropar, weighing from 150 to 200 pounds, which are fat and of a delicious flavor; and another species, called by a name which signifies "king fish," about the size of our salmon, remarkable for its symmetrical shape, and beautiful colors.  The <HI REND="italics">sardine</HI>
079.sgm:, a small fish, but three or four inches in length, congregate near the shore, sometimes blackening the surface of the water.  It is exciting sport to see the pelican, the "man-of-war bird," and the gull, diving for them, and rising with their prey in their beaks, and sailing off to alight upon the rocks and trees to enjoy their repast.  There were great varieties of the richest sea shells that we see in the cabinets of our conchologists, not empty tenements as you see them there--but with their live occupants.  The sea <HI REND="italics">anemone</HI>
079.sgm:, is among the variety of interesting things abounding here.  You see upon the water what seems to be a pretty flower, reaching out for it there is a receding from the touch, and it contracts and sinks.  It is a small species of <HI REND="italics">polope [polyp]</HI>
079.sgm:, that thus imitates a flower by expanding its gills upon the surface of the water in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm: Panama, for the materials for which I am indebted to those of our Company who visited it; for I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:often had occasion to regret that it was not embraced in my rambles.</p><P>It is upon an extended plain, elevated from twelve to thirteen feet above the waters of the Bay.  A forest covers its entire site, and embosoms it as densely as it would be in our thickest and heaviest timbered lands.  It was built of brick and stone, with tile roofing.  The forest is so thickly wooded, and so filled up with underbrush, that you approach sometimes within a few rods of a massive wall, from 30 to 60 feet high, before seeing it.  There are blocks of buildings half fallen down, and sections of walls, peering up among the trees.  There is an immense Cathedral, the walls of which are but partially injured.  A gigantic cottonwood tree is growing within the space enclosed by the walls; and upon one of its arches a tree is growing thirty feet high.  In one instance, a high wall is supported by a tree that has grown upon it and struck its roots down upon either side firmly in the earth.  There are the remains of a watch tower standing, 100 feet in height, 40 feet square at the base, and 30 at the top--the walls seven feet thick, pierced with loopholes out of which to fire upon an enemy.  Small trees are growing in tops of the tower, and vines are climbing up its sides.  The rows of buildings would seem to have been regular, fronting upon narrow, paved streets.  It must have been once a magnificent city, strongly defended; to which was transferred the style of architecture, the luxuries, the pride and high bearing of old Spain in her palmy days of conquest and power.<ANCHOR ID="n3-16">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: But a change has come over it!  The strong arm that was thrown around all this portion of the American Continent--which embraced within its fold the fairest portions of the New World, even the broad valley of our own "father of waters," and on, on, beyond it, the vast expanse of wide prairies, ranges of mountains, lakes and rivers, to the shores of the Pacific; is relaxed, palsied, retains but an Island [Cuba] of its former extended Empire in America;--and that weary of its embrace, and struggling to be free!  Old Spain, decayed and rotten at the heart, crumbling in its centre, as are these walls and towers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:that once helped to mark its greatness even in this far off Colony, is too feeble for foreign conquest now; can hardly maintain its home existence.  A few feeble Colonies that within the memory of living witnesses, have separated themselves from another of the kingdoms of the old world--have since acquired from Spain her possessions bordering upon the Gulf of Mexico, including what she had previously ceded to France; then Texas, that Mexico in freeing herself, had wrested from her; then of her once possessions, the vast extent of country embraced in New Mexico and California.  We sojourners upon the Isthmus of Panama, hailing from that glorious confederacy of States, that had thus from a small and feeble beginning, gone on to extended empire--strengthening, laying broader and deeper the foundation as it advanced in magnitude; were walking over and straying among the ruins that marked the splendor and wide rule of a decaying monarchy of the Old World; on our way to help people--to carry our laws and institutions, to a new accession upon the shores of the Pacific!</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-16">Old Panama, founded in 1519, was destroyed at the time of its capture by Henry Morgan in 1671.  The city was rebuilt in 1673 at a site 5 miles to the west, the object being to locate it nearer the port.  If old city and new city are considered as one, Panama is the oldest city of European origin on the American mainland.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>These are not reflections, perhaps, that belong in an unpretending narrative of a trip to California; but they will come upon the mind and be associated with remembrances such as are seen upon the Isthmus.  We of the new, thought of the old world, and were cheered by the contrast--tread the earth with a firm step and a proud consciousness of the glory and grandeur of our country, that had once resounded to the tread of the haughty grandees of Spain--the proud Castilian--who were here rioting in their conquests, long, long, before our country had a separate existence.  We sang "Hail Columbia," and whistled "Yankee Doodle," with zest that we could hardly have enjoyed at home.</p><P>Petrea, in the "land of Idumea," is hardly less a desolation, than is the site of old Panama.  The wild animals common to the Isthmus roam over its desolated streets and have their lairs, their coverts, and their chaparrals within its deserted walls.  Some of the sojourners upon the Isthmus had fine sport hunting tigers, deer, wild boars, monkeys, squirrels, alligators, upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:the spot where in other days there had been "tilts and tournaments," where <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Fair eyes had looked out<LB>Upon eyes that looked again."<LB></HI>
079.sgm:</p><P>There are hogs, of the common domestic species, wild now, the descendants of those introduced from Spain.  The wild boar is a distinct indigenous species, has frightful tusks and teeth, no tail, of rather a fox color, having a musk bag upon the tops of the rumps.  The meat of the young ones is of fine flavor.</p><P>It was amusing to see the amateur sportsmen assembled on the Isthmus.  All had brought guns with them, and all thought they must use them.  Most of them acted as if it was new business--were as awkward in the use of fire-arms, as vagrant boys that go out from our villages and among the farmers, and just about as pleased with learning that they could shoot.  They kept popping away, in and about the city to the great annoyance of the civil Granadians.  They shot the turkey buzzards, and that was against Granadian, or Panama municipal law.  The lazy, sleepy, dull specimen of ornithology,was plenty in the city, walking tamely about the streets, and roosting on the trees and in the dilapidated buildings.  They are regarded as useful scavengers, and are therefore protected by law.  The shooting of them by the new comers, was first mildly objected to by the Granadians, and finally stopped by a publication of the law and intimations that it would be put in force.</p><P>The domestic fowl, or hen, that we saw in and about Panama, is very much like ours, but with the difference of being perfectly tame; submitting to be taken up and handled, and manifesting no fear.  There are but one breed of dogs, I think, in Granada.  They are degenerate, small and badly formed, generally imperfect specimens of the race--the consequence, doubtless, of a long continued breeding "in and in."</p><P>The cattle are uniformly small, but have fine forms and colors, with beautiful coats of hair.  A long course of breeding "in and in," has diminished the size without impairing the form.</p><P>One singular fact will illustrate the extraordinary soil and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:After dinner there would be a stroll of all hands upon the beach and battery to strain our eyes in hopes to catch the glimpse of a vessel coming up the Bay.  In the evening a part of our company would be in our quarters, reading, writing, playing cards for amusement, singing and occupying themselves the best way they could devise.  Some would go out and stroll through the town, often stopping to witness a " <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
079.sgm:,"--(a Spanish dance,)--on the <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
079.sgm:, in the open air.  Thus wore away the days, with occasionally to be sure, a greater variety in the way of doing nothing, than has been enumerated.</p><P>It should be mentioned that independent of the <HI REND="italics">fandangos</HI>
079.sgm: of the lower orders, in the open air, there are frequent Spanish dances in the houses of the better classes, where we could always be admitted as spectators, and be civilly treated, as long as conduct deserved it.  The row that occurred, a false account of which, I am told reached the newspapers of the United States, occurred as follows: At one of these private fandangos, strangers, who were civilly admitted as spectators, threw small coin upon the dancing floor, which boys would squabble after, and thus annoy the dancers.  This incensed the Spaniards; a row ensued; dirks were drawn, pistols fired, women screamed.  None were killed, but some were pretty severely wounded upon both sides.  Fortunately, most of the caps exploded without firing the pistols; owing to the humid atmosphere on the Isthmus, this is apt to be the case with fire arms that have been loaded even twenty-four hours.  Our sympathies, touching this affair, were generally with the Granadans.<ANCHOR ID="n3-17">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-17"><P>An account of this affair, from the <HI REND="italics">Panama Star</HI>
079.sgm: of April 29, is printed in the New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:, May 26, 1849:</p><P>"A disgraceful row occurred on Sunday night last [April 22], at a fandango held in one of the houses fronting the Cathedral, which resulted in the infliction of divers wounds upon eight or ten persons, several of whom were Americans.</p><P>"It is difficult to judge which party is censurable for the origin of the fight, so many representations are given by the persons engaged, as well as the spectators.  It seems, however that it was not accidental but intentional; a lot of small coin having been thrown upon the floor among the promiscuous crowd of dancers, intended, and successfully, to get up a sc[r]amble for the money.  This, first resorted to by a Spaniard, and repeated by an American, had the intended effect--the row began, and chairs and knives, and pistols were liberally used, at the expense of many heads and limbs.  The natives were very seriously injured, and two Americans considerably cut and bruised; others were slightly wounded.</p><P>"We understand that in consequence of this disgraceful fight, the Governor has taken measures to bring into the city a considerable military force, to aid what is already here in keeping the peace and protecting the rights of persons and property.  For efforts of this character to execute his duty, we are well persuaded Gov. Herrera will have the approbation of a great portion of the American population, who scorn, as highly as he possibly can, the reckless few who flock to public resorts of this kind on infamous and vicious errands."</p><P>William Penn Abrams, whose MS. diary is in the Bancroft Library, was in Panama at this time, and on April 23 he refers to the prevailing excitement occasioned by the affray.</p></NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>While at Panama our company was not free from invalids the most of the time; eleven of them at one period, were under the care of physicians.  Col. E. Jewett was taken sick while crossing the Isthmus, the attack having been brought on by heat and fatigue.  He was an invalid during our whole stay there, but soon recovered after getting out to sea.</p><P>One of our number, Chauncey Harrington, died upon the Isthmus, after an illness of eight days.  Death--the cold lifeless <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:corpse, the shroud, the coffin and pall, the funeral obsequies,--are sad things, at home, when our friends "die among their kindred;" but how infinitely are the shades of the tomb darkened, under circumstances such as attended the death and burial of our companion!--It was a solemn scene when we bore him to his grave, and under the thick foliage of the cocoa and palm trees, at the foot of a hill west of Panama, listened to the impressive burial service of the Episcopal Church, read by a layman.  We turned away sorrowing, and most of all, that there were chords to be broken, hearts to bleed, fond hopes to be crushed, when the tidings of his death had reached home.<ANCHOR ID="n3-18">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-18">W. H. Hecox, in his letter of March 18, refers to Harrington's death the night before; see p. 186.  A correspondent writing from Panama March 24, 1849, in the New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:<P>On the 24th of March, two of our company, William Case and Peter Page, started to return.  We regretted their determination, were very sorry to part with them, yet could hardly blame them, for we had had an untoward commencement, a wearying delay; and ahead of us, was enough to appal even stout hearts.  But, "Ho, for California," was still the watch word, the cry that rallied our flagging spirits, and bid us wait, wait, and then on to the golden sands of the Pacific!</p><P>After we had been at Panama six weeks, we learned through the U. S. Consul, that the <HI REND="italics">Nyantic</HI>
079.sgm:, a whaler, was coming from Payta, for passengers for San Francisco; the Consul having authority to take the names of applicants.  There was, as may well be supposed, a rush for precedence--to see which should get their names entered first.  There were from two to three thousand passengers waiting, and the ship could take but about two hundred and fifty.  The whole of the Lockport Company were fortunate enough to secure a passage.  We stipulated to pay $150 each for a passage to San Francisco.<ANCHOR ID="n3-19">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-19">Concerning the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Then came nearly three long and tedious weeks, waiting for the arrival of the vessel.  It came at last.  Intense was our anxiety as she hove in sight, to be assured that it was the long looked for <HI REND="italics">Nyantic</HI>
079.sgm:; and joyful we were of course, when she dropped her anchor, and the Captain came on shore and put an end to our doubts.  But then came nearly three weeks more of tantalizing delay.  Although the vessel had unloaded at Payta, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:most of all that belonged to the business in which she had been engaged, still it was a work of some magnitude to convert a whaler into a passage ship; berths had to be erected, cabins re-arranged; the ship had to be thoroughly cleansed, and the water casks filled.  All this went on slowly we thought, and so it did.  There was scolding and impatience, fretting and fault-finding; aye, and some swearing, I am obliged to add.  If our army "swore terribly in Flanders," wearied passengers of the <HI REND="italics">Nyantic</HI>
079.sgm:, improved upon the example, in Panama.  But little does it disturb your old "salts" of the ocean, to be railed at by "land lubbers."  They were provokingly stoical and indifferent, touching the feverish impatience of California gold hunters.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO.--THOSE WHO HAD STILL TO WAIT.--OUR SHIP, ITS OFFICERS AND CREW.--LIFE ON SHIP BOARD.--ONE DAY AS A SPECIMEN.--OUR EVENINGS, AND THE WAY WE EMPLOYED THEM.--FARTHER AND FARTHER FROM HOME.--A CLERGYMAN.--ANNIVERSARIES.--SHARKS, PILOT FISH, PORPOISES, THEIR SPORTS.--FLYING FISH.--DRIVEN FAR OUT OF OUR COURSE.--A GALE.--BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO.--THE CITY, ITS LOCATION.</p><P>All being finally ready, on the first day of May, we went on board, after bidding good bye to the Granadians with whom we had made acquaintance; not forgetting our friends of the shops, with whom we had chatted in our imperfect Spanish.  We parted with those who had still to wait, deeply commiserating their misfortunes; a fellow feeling had grown out of mutual sufferings by delay, that made us wish that the <HI REND="italics">Nyantic</HI>
079.sgm: was large enough to take them all on their way.<ANCHOR ID="n4-20">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Toward evening, we rejoiced in seeing the "rags" of the old whaler fluttering in the wind.  In consequence of calms and head winds, we were sixteen days in arriving at the Gallipagos Islands--one thousand miles--passing a day's sail to the leeward of them.<ANCHOR ID="n4-21">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-20">Theodore Johnson, who sailed north to San Francisco in the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: March 13 but very soon got his fill of the gold mines, arrived back at Panama on May 22 to find the <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: again on the point of sailing for San Francisco, among whose passengers, "to my great surprise, I found an acquaintance who was a fellow passenger in the `Crescent City' in February, and had waited all the intervening time for a passage in the Pacific steamer."  Johnson adds, "He nevertheless reached San Francisco, as I afterwards learned, some days before two sailing vessels, which had left Panama at the time of my departure in the ` <HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:,' in the month of March."  Johnson, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-21">Unfavorable winds made it slow sailing to California ports from Panama.  Characteristically, the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:<P>But I am "running before the wind" with my narrative, and that is more than can be said of our sailing at the commencement of our voyage.  I should have first described our ship, its officers and crew.  As I have said, it was a Warren, R. I., whaler, built originally for the China trade, but transferred.  It was 480 tons burthen, of staunch build, and with pretty good sailing qualities.  It was commanded by Captain Henry Cleveland, who was not only a good specimen of a sailor, but equally a good specimen of a man.  He was a native of Rhode Island, thoroughly inured to sea service, and yet appearing more like a plain New England Farmer than a sailor as he was, every inch of him.  His first and second mate were both his sons, active and gentlemanly men.  The steward was a California adventurer like ourselves, a young lawyer from Maryland, who had taken the berth as a measure of economy.  He was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:thoroughly educated, gentlemanly and intelligent man. May that good fortune that his merits deserved, be with him in his new home.<ANCHOR ID="n4-22">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:.  The majority of the crew--32 in number--were Kanakas, natives of the Sandwich Islands; peaceable, inoffensive men, active and excellent sailors; the remainder were Irishmen, and natives of New England.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-22">In his reminiscences printed in the Society of California Pioneers <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
079.sgm:<P>It was a metamorphosis, such as was not common before the rush to California commenced--the converting of a whaler into a passenger ship--but the courteous old captain, his officers and crew, were not wanting in all they could do to make our voyage as pleasant as circumstances would admit.</p><P>Our manner of living upon ship board was as follows:--We were divided off into messes of twelve each.  Our rations were served out to us by the steward, though we had to furnish our own knives, forks and dishes, and wash them.  Our ordinary rations were, coffee for breakfast, with pretty good sea bread, and cold meats; for dinner, bean soup, boiled pork and beef, with bread.  This fare was varied every two days in the week, by the addition either of boiled rice, sweet potatoes, or <HI REND="italics">duff</HI>
079.sgm:," a mixture of dough, raised over night with yeast, boiled in bags, and eaten with molasses.  For supper, tea, sea bread, and cold meats if asked for.<ANCHOR ID="n4-23">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-23">Cushing says further: "We were divided into messes of twelve each.  A captain was chosen for each mess, and a man named Bradford, who was in later years a judge in California, was chosen Steward.  Each mess was provided with a tub for meat, with a ten gallon pail for coffee, a large pan for hardtack, and each individual had his own utensils for eating purposes.  On deck just abaft the foremast were two large two hundred gallon kettles such as whalers use for trying out the blubber, and these were kept hot all the time in cooking.  When dinner time came our Steward would call out `Mess number one!' and so on.  Each captain would then walk up with his tub and pail, get his supply of salt beef and pork and his tea or coffee, his bread, etc.  The allowance was for twelve hours, a breakfast and supper, coffee and tea only.  The next day at noon, mess number twenty-two was called first and so on down to number one, so every mess had an equal chance.  Our fare was excellent and there was plenty of it, and variety too, as duff, rice, beans, etc., came around in their turns.  Each mess soon found a spot of its own which no one ever interfered with, and all went on smoothly.  Mr. Freeman was a strict disciplinarian and very obliging.  He would not allow a scrap of anything to be thrown overboard, nor a drop of water to be used except for drinking.  The second day out he nearly frightened a young fellow out of his wits when he found him scrubbing his teeth at the water tank.  He stood on the poop deck where everyone could hear him, and after that there was no water wasted."</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>One day on ship-board will give the reader a pretty good idea of the manner we wore of the long voyage: get out of our berths about as soon as the sailors had finished washing the decks, which operation commenced regularly at 4 o'clock; draw buckets of salt water, with which we could make but imperfect ablutions.  Upon first coming upon deck the enquiry would be: "How does she head this morning?"  Then came breakfast and dish washing.  Each one would pass the forenoon according to his mind; there would be reading, writing, bringing up of diarys, or journals, card playing for diversion, (no gambling was allowed,) looking out upon a monotonous sea, to descry a sail, or witness the aquatic sports of its finny tribes.  After dinner, there would be sleeping in the open air upon the decks, with no shade but that afforded by the sails--or, whileing away <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:the time in a lazy, listless, stoical indifference, such is only known as one of the influences of a tropical climate.  After tea it would be cooler, fine breezes would spring up, the body and mind would revive from their lethargy, and we were "all right again."  There would be fiddling and dancing, song singing and story telling, long and tough yarns spun; jokes and repartees, (and we were not without those who could perpetrate them, rich, racy and cool); castles would be built glittering and bright as the gold we were going after to build them with; and then when the shades of night were thrown over and around us, resting upon the sea and the noble ship that was careering over its waves; we would turn in and dream of home; sighing heavily and sadly, as a half waking consciousness, reminded us that we were getting farther away from all its endearments; but lulled to slumber by the siren voice of the goddess of gold, and gain, that was impelling us over the sea, as she compels her votaries elsewhere, to trample upon the kindlier feelings and sensibilities of humanity.</p><P>We were fortunate in having for our fellow passenger, the Rev. Mr. Mines, an Episcopal clergyman, who was going out to found a church in San Francisco, in which enterprise he has been successful, as we were all glad to hear, for few could be better fitted for such a mission.<ANCHOR ID="n4-24">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: He had service every Sunday, and his discourses were singularly appropriate, adapted to his hearers, and the circumstances by which they were surrounded.  It would shame some worshipping congregations on land--where gay dresses, frippery, lolling upon cushioned seats, worldly thoughts and aspirations are so mixed up with serious things--to have witness[ed] "the rough and weather beaten sailor," the "dare devil" California adventurer, the officers men and passengers of the good ship <HI REND="italics">Nyantic</HI>
079.sgm:, listening with deep and "reverential awe," to the spiritual teachings of the Rev. Mr. Mines, upon the quarter deck</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-24">Flavel Scott Mines, born in Virginia in 1811, was educated at Princeton.  He prepared himself for the Presbyterian ministry, but changed his views and became a minister of the Episcopal church.  Afterward, for six years, he was pastor of St. Paul's Church at Frederiksted, St. Croix, in the Danish West Indies (now the Virgin Islands).  Eventually he went to New York, but news of the gold discovery inspired him to take up his labors in California.  McCollum mentions him again in San Francisco, where he founded the Holy Trinity Episcopal Church.  He oversaw subsequently the building of New Trinity Church on Pine Street, and the Bancroft Library has a printed copy of the <HI REND="italics">Sermon</HI>
079.sgm: preached by him at its opening, January 25, 1852.  He died in San Francisco on August 5 following; and the Bancroft Library has also <HI REND="italics">A Tribute to the Memory of the Rev. Flavel S. Mines, A. M.</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The Anniversaries of the battles of Bunker Hill and Palo Alta [Alto], occurring on our voyage, were celebrated after the fashion at home, with an oration, odes, toasts, and "music <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-25">The San Francisco McCollum describes lay half a mile back from what is now the Bay shore, centering about the present Portsmouth Square.  The Bay waters then washed in approximately as high as Montgomery Street.</NOTE>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
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079.sgm:their consumptive purses as if they had been plethoric.  The conclusion was, that when their money was gone, they had only to go out to the mines, stoop down, and pick up more.  But ah! that <HI REND="italics">stooping</HI>
079.sgm: down, that creaking of joints under a new discipline--that forward leaning of the vertebra, till it described a half circle, and keeping it there until it would hesitate to go back to its place, like the bow which has been too long bent; that back-ache and head-ache; there was far less of fun in it, of play and poetry--it was, to tell the truth, more "like work" than had been taken into the account; as the reader shall be told, if his patience will continue with us in our adventures.</p><P>Most, of all we found in San Francisco, were from this country, though there was a sprinkling of Mexicans, Chileans, Peruvians, Chinese, Sandwich Islanders, and a very few from England and France.  The Chinese were generally, carpenters, laborers, and keepers of rude shops and eating houses.  They were not, I should judge, your real "celestials," but a kind of half way "outside barbarians," who acquired a little knowledge with the world, by dwelling in the commercial marts of China.  The shop keepers were as keen as if they had taken lessons in our own Puritan, over-reaching, New England;and although the cooking in their eating houses, was generally of a strange hashmedley, I saw no "chop sticks,"--no mourners of the canine species, for their martyred companions; no veritable rat tails in their soups.  The Chileans were generally traders and keepers of eating houses; were mostly harmless and inoffensive.  The "Kanakers [Kanakas]," or Sandwich Islanders, were common laborers and porters.  There were a few native Californians, not to exceed two hundred.  The city government consisted of an alcalde, and some kind of city council; the municipal affairs were crude and undigested, as a matter of course; and yet there was a tolerable government, a security of life and property which could hardly have been anticipated; its strength and support being the character of a large majority of those suddenly thrown together, whose self-preservation depended upon the maintenance of law and order.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<P>There were not less than one hundred vessels in port, mostly American; a few Chilean brigs.  The number was rapidly accumulating.  When a vessel reached there, it was soon deserted by its crew, and left with its officers; and in many instances officers and all, were off to the mines leaving the vessel to take care of itself.  Sailors are proverbially fond of their pursuit--have usually a contempt for land service; but gold, its supposed easy acquisition--in this instance, prevailed over enlistments, engagement, and discipline.</p><P>Gold and gold digging absorbed everything.  California was emphatically, a country of "one idea."  It was there, the reign of Mammon,--all were his votaries, and they were as absorbed, as "set apart" for his service, as if bound by religious vows.  There had been but little of systematic agricultural pursuits, since the breaking up of the mission establishments, many years previous, but, on the discovery of gold, this, as well as all other ordinary pursuits, was abandoned.  In a semi-official letter, from Captain S. [ <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
079.sgm:., Joseph] L. Folsom of the U.S. Army, serving in California, of date, September 18th, 1848, a little over seven months from the first discovery of gold, the following graphic sentence occurs:--</p><P>"Villages and districts, where all had been bustle, industry and improvement, were soon left without a male population.  Mechanics, merchants, lawyers, doctors, magistrates, were alike off to the mines, and all kinds of useful occupation, gold digging excepted, were apparently at an end.  In most cases the crops were remarkably good; but they are generally lost for the want of laborers to secure them.  In some parts of the country hundreds of acres of fine wheat will rot in the field from the improbability of getting white laborers.  Vessels are left swinging idly at their anchors, while both captains and crews are at the mines."<ANCHOR ID="n5-26">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-26">This letter, written from San Francisco to Major General Thomas S. Jesup, Quarter Master General, U.S. Army, is now in the T.W. Norris Collection in the Bancroft Library, endorsed as having been received at Washington on December 15, 1848.  Released to the Washington <HI REND="italics">Globe</HI>
079.sgm:, it was widely reprinted, <HI REND="italics">e.g</HI>
079.sgm:., in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:<P>And all this had been increasing, with a rapid influx of adventurers from abroad, in the time that had intervened between the date of Capt. Folsom's letter, and the period of our arrival.  There were but two branches of business, that to any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<P>Prices in California is a hacknied theme, but I will give a few specimens of those that prevailed at the period of our arrival:--,</p><P>Third rate pine lumber, $400 pr. M., and brick, $70 pr. M. Shingles M.; carpenter and joiner's wages, from $16 to $20 pr. day; laborers, from $8 to $10 pr. day; carting, $2.00 pr. load, or from $25 to $30 pr. day; clerk's wages from $200 to $500 pr. month; cooks, from $200 to $250 pr. month; pork 37 1/2 cents pr. lb.; flour, from $10 to $15 pr. sack of 200 lbs.; Chilean and Oregon hams, 35 cts. pr. lb.; good butter, from $1.25 to $1.50 pr. lb.; cheese, 75 cts. pr. lb.; bread, from $12 to $15 pr. cwt.; potatoes, from $3 to $4 for 25 lbs.; milk, $2 pr. gallon.</p><P>Gambling in San Francisco, had commenced, and was somewhat flourishing, but it remained for us to see that on our return, rife, reckless; to an extent perhaps, existing no where else in the world.  It is the worst feature--the plague spot--in the whole aspect of life in California.</p><P>The captain of our vessel had very kindly favored our company, by allowing us to remain on ship board, until we were ready to start for the mines.  It was five days before the last of us, and our baggage, was on the way.  It was mentioned on the start, that we were an organized, joint stock company.  The organization was broken up before leaving San Francisco, as a measure of utility; after finding from all we could learn there, that Fourierism was just as impracticable there as in the rest of the world; that separate, self-reliance, would be the best stimulus to exertion and enterprise; that association could be governed by no settled rules, but had better be left to choice, and to exigency and circumstances, as they occurred.<ANCHOR ID="n5-27">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-27">Fourierism was a socialistic or communitarian system formulated by the French writer Francois Marie Charles Fourier (1772-1837) in a number of works published between 1808 and 1830.  Primarily through the influence of Albert Brisbane, several score socialistic communities or <HI REND="italics">phalanges</HI>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>DESTINATION.--A CITY UPON PAPER.--THE SAN JOAQUIN.--MOSQUITOES.--ARRIVE AT STOCKTON.--A YOUNGER BROTHER OF SAN FRANCISCO.--HO, FOR THE MINES.--PILGRIMS OF HOPE.--A TAVERN KEEPER; THE BROAD SIDE VIEW HE GAVE US OF THE "ELEPHANT."--LONE TREE.--SLAUGHTER OF A BEEF.--THE THIEVISH WOLF.--A MILITARY ENCAMPMENT.--THE STANISLAUS.--A CATTLE PEN.--ARRIVE AT THE MINES.--"PROSPECT" AND LOCATE.--GO TO WORK.--OUR EARNINGS.--LABOR TOO SEVERE.--LIFE IN THE MINERAL REGION.--RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO.</p><P>On the 11th of July, (the main body of our Lockport friends having preceded us, to another portion of the gold region,) Col. E. Jewett, Mr. Lyman Bradley and myself, left the good ship <HI REND="italics">Nyantic</HI>
079.sgm:, after bidding a cordial good bye to its worthy old captain, with whom we had spent over seventy days.</p><P>We were bound for the southern mines.  Taking passage in a Schooner, we were four and a half days in going up the bay, and the San Joaquin to Stockton, one hundred and fifty miles.  There is little to describe in the route.  At the confluence of the San Joaquin with the Suisson Bay, there is an attempt to found a city.  It has the high sounding name:--"New York of the Pacific."  It reminded me of our magnificent cities that flourished upon paper in the speculation mania at the West, in 1836-7. There was one house without a roof.  I think it will be a failure.<ANCHOR ID="n6-28">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-28">The resoundingly-named "New York of the Pacific" is now Pittsburg; its history is related in Ernest A. Wiltsee, "The City of the New York of the Pacific," California Historical Society <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
079.sgm:, March, 1933, vol. 12, pp. 25-34.  Its claims to public patronage were advanced by the proprietors, J.D. Stevenson, G. McDougall, W. C. Parker, and Samuel Norris, in a notice to the public in the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The passage up the San Joaquin was a dreary one.  The river for the greater portion of the way winds like a tape worm, through low marshy ground, where the <HI REND="italics">tules</HI>
079.sgm:, (or bull rushes) grow to an enormous height, not allowing us to see out, only by climbing the rigging.  It is much like portions of the Erie canal and Seneca river, passing through the Montezuma marshes.  But your Montezuma mosquitoes should not be named in the same century with those of the San Joaquin.  Talk of those dwarfs of Montezuma, carrying brick bats under their wings to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:whet their bills upon; the mosquitoes of San Joaquin would despise using any thing less than an Ohio grind stone!  And how they were disciplined!  They were well <HI REND="italics">drilled</HI>
079.sgm:, as we had occasion to know.  They would bore through our thick Indian blankets, as if they were as thin as gauze!  Swarms of them, as if they were marshaled by a leader, would come out of the tall bull rushes, and attack us sleeping or waking; their warfare was diurnal as well as nocturnal.  The river is from one to three hundred yards wide, and navigable for craft drawing nine feet of water, as high up as Stockton, with but the interruption of a few sand bars; and twenty miles further, to the Stanislaus, for the smaller craft.  For the entire distance from the mouth of the river to Stockton--one hundred miles, there is no settler or sign of civilization.</p><P>As you approach Stockton, the uplands, oak-openings and glades of timber, begin to approach the river.  Our first evidence that we were nearing the new city in the wilderness, was the discovery through and above the trees, of the masts of some thirty brigs and schooners.  The harbor is a deep bay, or arm [slough] of the river, four miles long, and generally, about three hundred yards wide.  The grounds, of the new city are generally, from four to five feet above tide water.  The tide of the ocean and Bay of San Francisco, sets up here, from one to two feet.  It is a well chosen site. It is now the mart of trade connected with the southern mines. It is in all respects, a younger brother of San Francisco; and is destined to be one of the larger interior places in California.  Its name, is in honor of Com. [Robert F.] Stockton of the Navy, who, it will be recollected bore a conspicuous part in taking possession of the country.  The population, when we arrived there, was about two thousand; it was at least five thousand on our return from the mines.  There was there, on a smaller scale, a similar state of things--the same houseless multitude pitched together, heads and points, dwelling in unfinished houses, canvass houses, shantees and tents; the same bustle and excitement, and, "Ho! for the mines!" as at San Francisco.<ANCHOR ID="n6-29">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-29"><P>Stockton was founded in 1847 by Charles M. Weber, who gave it the unlikely name of Tuleburg.  It was renamed for Commodore Robert Field Stockton (1795-1866), who commanded U. S. naval forces in California during the Mexican War, so comporting himself as to have kept historians arguing ever since.  The town boomed after the discovery of gold, being at the head of steamboat navigation on the San Joaquin during the summer season; as Sacramento served the Northern Mines, so did Stockton serve the Southern Mines.</p><P>In the Appendix which accompanied his <HI REND="italics">Map of the Mining District of California</HI>
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079.sgm:<P>Our stay at Stockton was a day and a half.  A party of about twenty-five, that included us--most of them from our western states, hired a Spaniard, and a train of mules, forty in number to take our baggage to Jacksonville, at the mouth of Woods Creek, on the Towallome [Tuolumne] river.<ANCHOR ID="n6-30">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: We made a formidable caravan--not of Pilgrims to Jerusalem or Mecca--but Pilgrims of Hope, and glorious golden expectations!  We got a late start from Stockton, and progressed but two miles, where we encamped, and for the first time tried our hand at the new life we were to lead; lighted camp fires, boiled our coffee, cooked our meat, and after a supper that we relished well, rolled ourselves in our blankets, laid down upon the ground, with all creation for our bed chamber, and slept well.  Next morning, we were up betimes, had our breakfast out of the way, were moving on a little after daylight; and walked twelve miles, to, American camp.<ANCHOR ID="n6-31">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: There was no water to be had in all that distance--a sore privation in a hot day;--but we found here a solitary settler--a <HI REND="italics">tavern keeper</HI>
079.sgm: --who had sunk a well where we filled our bottles, and held a little conversation with the settler.  He was from Western Arkansas--had with his wife and five children, come over the Rocky Mountains, with an ox-team.  He was a regular south-westerner, and a wife to match him.  He had been in the "diggings" but had retired to keep a tavern, which consisted of a tent for his happy and contented family, and a booth for his guests.  He had poor liquors, which we did not patronise; but we bought milk of him for a dollar a bottle, and some excellent jerked Elk meat.  His nearest neighbor was twelve miles distant.  In answer to some enquiries in reference to his experience in the diggings, he wound up by giving us the comfortable assurance that those of us who could "maul rails out of tough white oak, under a July sun, could stand it very well in the mines!"  This was <HI REND="italics">cold</HI>
079.sgm: comfort for a <HI REND="italics">hot</HI>
079.sgm: day--and a hot day it was; and there was a kind of provoking manner he had, as if he enjoyed the misery he was inflicting; but pre-determined not to look patiently upon the dark side of the picture, we hurried away, and the next twelve miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:walk brought us to the "Lone tree,"<ANCHOR ID="n6-32">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: at 2 o'clock, P.M.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-30">Jacksonville, named for Colonel Alden Jackson, had been in existence less than two months when McCollum arrived there.  Woods Creek was named the year before, when the Rev. James Wood at the head of a party of Philadelphians opened up rich diggings at what was thereafter called Woods Crossing.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-31"><P>McCollum's name, "American camp," I have not found elsewhere.  It may have referred to the "solitary settler" here, or been used in contradistinction to the old French Camp and its Slough.  The artist William McIlvaine, Jr., who took this same road to the Tuolumne a few weeks ahead of McCollum, drew a "Prairie Scene" at this first night's encampment after leaving Stockton, "at a belt of woods traversing the prairie, about twelve miles from Stockton, where there was good grass and water.  From here to the Stanislaugh, a distance of twenty miles, there was but one place where water could be procured, at a spot known as the lone tree, and not even there if a large party had just before been passing."  He also commented, "In some directions the prairie looked like a yellow sea, and the faintly descried trees like distant sails."  See McIlvaine's <HI REND="italics">Sketches of Scenery and Notes of Personal Adventure in California and Mexico</HI>
079.sgm: (Philadelphia, 1850), p. 15.</p><P>Another gold hunter, Lewis C. Gunn, came along a few weeks after McCollum, and said of his departure from Stockton on August 13: "Started about three o'clock, having put about sixty pounds on a wagon, and carrying about thirty on my back.  We had to cross a plain that afternoon of about twelve miles without water.  With our packs, we found it exceedingly trying, as the sun was very hot and was reflected from the sand.  This plain extends nearly level to the Stanislaus River, a distance of about thirty-six miles from Stockton.  Now the grass is all burnt up, and in the rainy season the mud is impassable, but between the latter and the month of July, it is covered with beautiful verdure and rich pasturage.  We camped at a well where were some delightful shade trees, only a few of which we had passed on the road."  See Anna Lee Marston, ed., <HI REND="italics">Record of a California Family</HI>
079.sgm:.  <HI REND="italics">Journals and Letters of Lewis C. Gunn and Elizabeth Le Breton Gunn</HI>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">A solitary live oak, standing in the centre of a large prairie; for miles around not a tree or shrub to dispute its dominion.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-32">The Lone Tree endured as a placename, and soon turned up on California maps.  McIlvaine's comment on the locality is quoted in the preceding note.  Gunn wrote on August 14, 1849: "Started at sunrise to make the twelve miles to the next watering place.  Not a tree during the whole distance--one vast parched plain, and the sand and clay had not fairly recovered from yesterday's heating.  In two hours the heat was oppressive.  With our heavy packs, and our feet tender after the long sea voyage, we could not endure the additional bounce received from the pack, and our feet blistered most shockingly.  I could scarcely reach the end of the twelve miles, and there were thirteen more before us.  We stopped many times, and did not reach the well until eleven o'clock.  We bathed our feet and rested till two o'clock under the Lone Tree, for so the place was designated, there being but one tree.  A tent with stores was here, as also at the place where we stopped last night.  Our afternoon walk was very severe and we did not reach the [Stanislaus] river till dusk."  Marston, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The sun was scalding hot--we were wearied--camped for the night.  An early start the next morning, and a walk of fourteen miles, took us to Taylor's Ferry on the Stanislaus.  There was at this spot a cantonment of two or three companies of U. S. dragoons. They were to be used in case of trouble among the miners, or with the native Californians; exigencies that were quite unlikely to occur; though it was well enough to quarter them there for it was a delightful, healthy spot, and conveniently located for an expediency that it was necessary to adopt, to prevent a general desertion: the men in alternate detachments were allowed to work in the mines on their own account.  It gave to the locality a busy, life-like aspect.<ANCHOR ID="n6-33">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-33"><P>The troops, commanded by Major A. S. Miller, were two companies of the Second Infantry, though a company of the First Dragoons was under orders to join them.  In June, 1849, California military authority had decided that a force should take up position at what became known as Camp Stanislaus, "for the purpose of preventing conflict between the Indians and whites, and to be at hand should a collision (as was then much apprehended) occur between the Americans and foreigners who had congregated in great numbers upon the waters of the Stanislaus, Tuolumne, and Merced rivers."  All this was reported by Bennet Riley, brevet brigadier general and military governor of California, in an official dispatch of September 20, 1849, printed in 31st Congress, 1st Session, <HI REND="italics">House Executive Document</HI>
079.sgm: 17 (Serial 573), pp. 941-942.  Riley visited Camp Stanislaus on July 9, as shown by the topographical sketch of Lieutenant George Horatio Derby which accompanied his report.  Riley also advised: "The necessity of keeping troops in this position to meet Indian difficulties will probably not exist much longer.  The rapidly increasing mining population is gradually forcing the Indians to the south, and another season will find them so surrounded that the presence of troops, unless it be to protect the Indians, will be no longer required.  The danger of the occurrence of the last mentioned difficulty has also, in a great measure, passed away."</p><P>Taylor's Ferry on the Stanislaus was operated by Nelson E. Taylor, formerly of the Regiment of New York Volunteers, who settled in Stockton, became a member of the first session of the legislature, a trustee of the State Insane Asylum at Stockton and in 1854 sheriff of San Joaquin County.  In 1856 he returned east to South Newark, Conn., where he died January 13, 1894.  See Guy J. Giffen, <HI REND="italics">California Expedition.  Stevenson's Regiment of First New York Volunteers</HI>
079.sgm: (Oakland, 1951), p. 97.</p><P>Lewis Gunn wrote in his diary on August 14, 1849: "At this stopping place there is a ferry, of no use now because the river can be forded, but of use for several months after the wet season.  We also found two military companies encamped here for the protection of our citizens in all the surrounding country.  The soldiers receive five dollars per day, with the privilege of a furlough of two or three months, with provisions, to go to the mines, in companies of twenty, I believe."  Marston, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The Stanislaus is a beautiful mountain stream, coming down from the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, bringing a large tributary flood to the San Joaquin; passing mostly through a region of oak openings.</p><P>We crossed the river and encamped for the night.  There we saw a fine specimen of California horsemanship and cattle driving. A Kentucky drover had employed a Spaniard, (native Californian,) to assist him in driving forty or fifty head of cattle to the mines to slaughter for beef.  A fierce, exasperated bullock, turned to attack the Spaniard driver, who, knowing that beef was wanted, suddenly resolved upon his slaughter.  Raising himself in his stirrups, he threw a lasso over his horns, and adroitly bringing it to bear upon his legs, brought him to the ground.  The admirably trained horse, the moment the lasso was ready for the pull, settled back, almost upon his haunches, to assist the rider.  The Spaniard dismounted, cut the bullock's throat, flayed him, and cutting up the beef upon the spread hide, had it for sale before the quivering of the flesh had subsided.  We tasted the fresh beef for our supper and breakfast, and found it sweet and tender, as most of the California beef is.</p><P>The next morning early, we started up the river, upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:banks of which we continued for nineteen miles, and then struck off over a high region, where we first saw signs of gold.  Arriving at Green Springs,<ANCHOR ID="n6-34">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: we encamped after a fatiguing walk of twenty-eight miles from the starting point in the morning.  Here was another place of <HI REND="italics">entertainment</HI>
079.sgm:, such as I have described as kept by the Arkansas man.  We lay down and slept soundly upon the ground, the howling of the wolves our lullaby.  They were the peculiar California wolf [coyote], of a yellowish color, of a size smaller than our grey wolf; the most prowling and mean of the race.  Our haversack of provisions we thought pretty well guarded, for it had my companions, Col. J. and Mr. B. on either side of it, in close proximity.  I was awakened in the night by the upsetting of the coffee pot, and saw by the light of the stars, one of the wolves dragging off the aforesaid haversack.  Springing upon my feet, I gave close chase for a few rods, and shouting out, made him drop his booty and seek refuge among a flock of his comrades, who were drawn up in line to cover his retreat.  The rascals had really intended to appropriate our bread and meat to their own use, and would have done so if their stealthy emissary had not upset the coffee pot, and thus given an alarm.  We thus, at an early period of our adventures, got an unfavorable opinion of California wolves.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-34">The Green Springs, of which there are two, are situated near the present Keystone in Tuolumne County.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>Our journey was resumed the next morning.  Before starting it occurred to us that we might want more bread than our haversack contained, and upon enquiring the price, found it was six shillings per lb.  This gave us a little foretaste of prices in the mines.  Our route lay over a <HI REND="italics">rough</HI>
079.sgm:, hilly region, but sparsely timbered, rocks were strewed over the surface, and there was gold in most of the earth, in small quantities.  After going seven miles we came to a <HI REND="italics">ranche</HI>
079.sgm:, where there was a <HI REND="italics">corral</HI>
079.sgm:, or cattle pen,<ANCHOR ID="n6-2">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: and an extensive range of excellent pasture grounds.  It was the location of a Spanish <HI REND="italics">vaccaro [vaquero</HI>
079.sgm: ], or herdsman.  He could communicate with us but with signs, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:and by a few Spanish words that we could understand; but we found him intelligent, gentlemanly and hospitable.  He served us with good coffee, to which the luxury of fresh milk was added, and contrary to any thing we had before seen in California, almost resented our offer of payment.  After refreshing ourselves in the shade--filling our water bottles--and bidding our agreeable new acquaintance a good bye--we trudged on seven miles further, to Jacksonville, our destination.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-2">A pen or fold, into which cattle are driven for the purpose of being marked, or slaughtered.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>We found there a colony of diggers in tents, small assortments of goods and provisions, booths, or places of refreshment; all that appertained to a central locality in the mining districts.  Our tent was added to the colony, and we soon got ready to live after the fashion of our neighbors.  The only thing appertaining to mining in which we were deficient, was a Rocker, and that we procured for the moderate sum of $55.  We sallied out, prospecting; found squads of miners in all directions, which we took to be pretty good evidence of plenty of gold.  After a day or two we pitched upon a spot and went to work in earnest; turned over rocks, delved and dug with pick-axe and shovel, opened a multitude of holes, tin-panned, and rocked the cradle; in fact, made a pretty faithful experiment in gold digging, and our success did not meet our expectations.  Our earnings were, each of us, generally, from $3 to $6 a day; occasionally one of us would earn $12.  Mr. Bradley, being an excellent house and sign painter, very rationally concluded that he could do quite as well at his trade, at San Francisco, with less of severe labor, falling in with a return train of mules, mounted one of them, and left the mines.</p><P>The departure of our friend Bradley--sorry as we were to part with him--afforded us much amusement.  He paid an <HI REND="italics">ounce</HI>
079.sgm: for the privilege of bestriding a mule that was not even a fair specimen of his unamiable race.  The pack saddle, or pannier, upon which our friend B. was seated, was as illy adapted to equestrian uses as the half section of a good sized forest tree, hollowed out, would have been.  To accommodate himself to it, his legs were thrown out to a ludicrous extent; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:Francisco, and I remaining at Stockton for four weeks, boarding with a Frenchman at a dollar a meal.  The practice of medicine was not part of my errand to California, but I did a little in that way, upon a scale of prices of course, corresponding with the expense of living.  It was generally healthy; dysenteries, bilious fevers, and scurvy, prevailing, but of a mild type, yielding readily to treatment.</p><P>I left, and rejoined my friends Jewett and Bradley at San Francisco.</p><P>We found pleasant companions among the miners; many intelligent, well educated men whose society we should appreciate any where.  There are few better men left behind, than a large proportion of those who have gone to California.  Our leisure hours we spent in each other's tents, in rational conversation, and amusements; sometimes, having exhausted the predominating theme--gold digging and its prospects--our thoughts would wander homewards, and all that we could imagine was going on there would be thoroughly discussed; cherished names would transpire, and fond memories would call up reminiscences pleasant and refreshing.  Home, and all that belongs to it, are themes whose interest increase the further we wander from them.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>RAPID CHANGE IN SAN FRANCISCO.--GAMBLING ON THEINCREASE.--ACQUAINTANCES FROM HOME.--PRACTICE OF MEDICINE.--OFF TO THE MINES AGAIN.--NEW ADVENTURES.--THE SACRAMENTO.--A SETTLER.--CITY OF SACRAMENTO.--LEAVE SACRAMENTO FOR THE MINES.--LIEZENDORF'S RANCHE.--MORMON ISLAND.--LOCATE.--GO TO WORK.--NOT VERY SUCCESSFUL.--LEAVE THE MINES.--RETURN TO SACRAMENTO.--MORE OF THE SACRAMENTO VALLEY.--BENETIA.--ELECTION.--FORMATION OF A STATE GOVERNMENT.--REFLECTIONS.--SAN FRANCISCO AGAIN.--CLIMATE.--START FOR HOME.--COL. E. JEWETT.--REASONS FOR RETURNING.--OUR VOYAGE.--WATER SPOUT.--RE-CROSS THE ISTHMUS.--HAVANA.--NEW YORK.--HOME.</p><P>In the two months that I had been absent, San Francisco had undergone a change, such as with other cities in the work of long years.  Streets that were vacant had been built up--the city was extending in every direction--the population had more than doubled--the capacious bay was dotted with vessels; gambling had more than kept pace with the ratio of increase of population; there were not less than two hundred large and small gambling establishments.  Fortunes changed hands rapidly; the rich to-day, were poor tomorrow.--Losing, a bad run of luck, gave but little trouble; the lame ducks, the "dead broke," whistled over their losses, like philosophers, or looked as undisturbed as stoics;--went to the mines or turned their hands to something in San Francisco, to raise the wind, and go the same thing over again.  It is a strange passion!  The moralist will enquire, why it is permitted?  It cannot be prevented.  It is the natural offspring of wealth easily acquired in the absence of those restraints that exist at home.  In older societies, or communities, moral observances and restraints are more or less mutual, or conventional.  Abstract individuals--place them where there are none to help them persevere in virtuous resolutions; make up a large community of those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:incompatible with the dignity of a "learned profession."--But I met with acquaintances from home on the vessel and they made the "Doctor" stick to me like the "shirt of Nessus."  The schooner was heavily ladened with lumber, ready built houses, goods, and passengers for Sacramento and the mines.  The new adventurers on board, were full of enquiries.  I gave them the result of my experience up to that period, which the reader will conclude, was not very encouraging.  But I was going to try it again, and that they construed favorably of course.</p><P>The Sacramento is a magnificent stream.  From its confluence with the Suisson Bay, to Sacramento, it is from a fourth to a half mile wide, and has a broad and fertile valley.  The first settler we saw on the banks was <HI REND="italics">Randell</HI>
079.sgm:, a Swiss, who had started a small but flourishing vineyard.  A few miles above him, Swart, a Dutchman, who had been for many years with Capt. Sutter, had the ground broke to the extent of four or five acres.  This, and the vineyard I have spoken of, were the first attempts I had seen to cultivate the soil, in California.  The enterprising Dutchman, had growing corn, beans, melons, squashes, potatoes and onions in greater luxuriance than I had ever before witnessed.  His marketing season had by no means ended, but he had already realized $7,000, from his crops, from passengers and crews of vessels navigating the river. <ANCHOR ID="n7-35">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: There were two or three other squatters in the river, and before we left, pre-emptionists were taking possession of most of the favorite spots.  I am perhaps, not too sanguine, when I venture the prophecy that the valley of the Sacramento is soon to be to all that region of California what the valley of the Genesee is to western New York.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-35"><P>John L. Schwartz (or Swat, or Swart, or Swartz) came overland to California in 1841 as a member of the Bartleson party.  Remaining in the vicinity of Sutter's Fort, in 1844 he obtained a grant on the Sacramento River below Sutter's, which he called Nueva Flandria.  John Bidwell, in a letter of April 1, 1884, to H. H. Bancroft, described him as a Hollander who "died at his place about 4 miles below Sacramento in 1850 or 1, possibly 1852," leaving no immediate family.  Mention of him enlivens the pages of many narratives of this period.  Thus Edwin Bryant, visiting "the cabin of a German emigrant named Schwartz, six miles below the embarcadero of New Helvetia," on the night of October 25, 1846, described his host as "one of those eccentric human phenomena rarely met with, who, wandering from their own nation into foreign countries, forget their own language without acquiring any other.  He speaks a tongue (language it cannot be called) peculiar to himself, and scarcely intelligible.  It is a mixture, in about equal parts, of German, English, French, Spanish, and <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
079.sgm: Indian, a compound polyglot or lingual pi--each syllable of a word sometimes being derived from a different language."  E. Gould Buffum, who likewise stayed overnight with Schwartz--on October 30, 1848--and who assents to Bryant's description of him, adds that this "old German . . . emigrated to California some ten years since, and obtained a grant of six leagues of land, extending up and down the Sacramento River. . . .  He has built upon the bank of the river a little hut of <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
079.sgm:, resembling a miserable Indian wigwam; and there he lives, a `manifest destiny' man, with `masterly inactivity' awaiting the march of civilization, and anticipating at some future day the sale of his lands for a princely fortune--a hope in which he will probably not be disappointed."  Bayard Taylor, who like McCollum passed this way in the early autumn of 1849, mentions passing "a ranche, the produce of which, in vegetables alone, was said to have returned the owner--a German, by the name of Schwartz--$25,000 during the season."</p><P>Schwartz's neighbor, "Randell," seemingly should be easy to identify, but the combined resources of the Bancroft Library and the California State Library have not enabled me to lay him by the heels.</p></NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>The city of Sacramento is one hundred miles from San Francisco, and sixty-five miles from Suisson Bay.  It is located on a beautiful plain; its elevation above the river is not over ten or twelve feet in low water--quite insufficient for security against the rise of the waters in the river, as the late disastrous floods that we have heard of through the newspapers, fully demonstrate.  The city must either be protected by levees, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:another site must be chosen, three miles back upon higher lands.  At the period of our arrival it contained about ten thousand inhabitants; a state of things existed there, such as I have described at San Francisco and Stockton.  The buildings are better than atStockton. It is now the great mart of the northern mines, and it must hereafter be the mart of a rich agricultural district, as well as that of an extended mineral region.  Speculations in lots were as rife there, as at San Francisco.  The city is laid out in squares, and streets running at right angles, leaving a broad open front on the river.<ANCHOR ID="n7-36">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-36">The spectacular way Sacramento boomed in 1848-1850, second in dramatic impact only to the history of San Francisco, has left its mark on virtually every California diary of the period.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>Up to this point the river is navigable for large class steamers--ships from the ocean drawing not over twelve feet of water, may go up at all seasons.  Above Sacramento smaller craft can go up twenty-five or thirty miles.  Near Sacramento, the Rio Americano, (American river), puts in; a spot familiar to all who have read anything of California.  Capt. Sutter's Fort is on the Rio Americano, three miles from the city.<ANCHOR ID="n7-37">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: The tide of the ocean sets back to the height of two feet at Sacramento.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-37">Sutter's Fort, "Nueva Helvetia," as he himself called it, was founded in 1839, shortly after his arrival in California.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>I remained at Sacramento for a few days, and started for the mines thirty-five miles distant, on the South Fork of the Rio Americano.</p><P>I omitted in its proper place, to observe, that on my return trip down the San Joaquin, I found the mosquitoes had much improved by practice.  They depleted with more rapidity.  A person whose epidermis was not as invulnerable as that of a rhinoceros, stood no chance with them.  We that were their victims, looked as if we were afflicted with the erysipelas, before we got out of the low lands bordering on the San Joaquin.</p><P>I found Major Cook at Sacramento, who had come down to the mines and concluded to return with me.  We bought a rocker, and some other necessary implements for another campaign.  Hiring our baggage transported on an ox-wagon, we commenced the journey on foot; walked seven miles the first afternoon and encamped under an oak tree; the next morning a walk of five miles brought us to Liezendorf's ranche, a marked spot in the published accounts of California adventurers.<ANCHOR ID="n7-38">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: An <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:American family occupied the place, and we were served with an excellent breakfast--an ordinary substantial home breakfast--with the addition of fine venison; a further walk of twenty-five miles took us to our destination--Mormon Island, (named from a party of Mormons who first dug gold there,) on the South Fork of the American River.<ANCHOR ID="n7-39">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: We found located there a large settlement of miners--not less than six or seven hundred; and among them, two brothers from Lockport, George and Joseph Trowbridge, and a son of the Rev. Mr. Treadway of Lewiston.  Here we saw the first attempt at using improved machinery for gold washing; water wheels to work the rockers, and throw water upon the dirt in the hopper; and Brindsmaid's machine for separating the gold with quicksilver.  The machinery was owned and worked by an association of miners, who were doing a very good business.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-38">McCollum refers to the well-known William Alexander Leidesdorff, who came to California by sea in 1841 and until his death in May, 1848, at the age of 38, lived a remarkably varied life.  His papers are preserved in the Henry E. Huntington Library.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-39">Mormon Island was the locale of the first diggings opened, other than at Coloma.  The gold seekers who gave name to the place were Mormon Battalion members who had been working at Sutter's Mill.  W. A. Jackson said at the close of 1849 that Mormon Island was "quite a considerable settlement of miners and traders, is situated on the south fork of the American River, and is twenty-five miles from Sacramento City.  Of the mining or washing district, it is the nearest to that city."</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>After finding a place to dig that promised well, we pitched our tents and commenced the regular life of miners.  Our location was among the live oaks, under their dense foliage, on the bank of the river.  It was a salubrious, healthy spot; and we had the benefit of the pure sweet water of the river.  The first afternoon we worked our earnings were about fifteen dollars; after that, for the ten days that we remained, we made from eight to twelve dollars per day, each.  The yield diminishing, our hole, in fact, worked out, we changed our location, carrying our heavy baggage, tent implements, &amp;c., three miles down the river, to the banks of the Rio Americano.  The work in the mines was hard enough we thought, but the moving by hand, was still harder.  Our tent was again pitched in rather a solitary spot, about one mile from the nearest neighbor.  We went to work upon a bar in the bed of the river, and worked it for three weeks, realizing about the average earnings in the northern mines.<ANCHOR ID="n7-40">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: After we had been at work one week, we were joined by Charles P. Carey, one of the Lockport Company.  The rains coming on we sold our tents and mining implements--fully satisfied that if we were born for gold diggers, destiny had been thwarted by habits of life quite too effeminate for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:severe toil and exposure that was absolutely requisite.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-40">T. Butler King, in his official report on California dated at Washington, March 22, 1850, hazarded the opinion that daily earnings in the mines averaged about an ounce per day, at $16 per ounce.  On calculating that the period during which gold might be successfully collected in the rivers came to 65 working days, he figured that the average for each laborer would come to $1,040, or in round numbers, $1,000 per man.  (See his report in 31st Congress, 1st Session, <HI REND="italics">House Executive Document 59</HI>
079.sgm: [Serial 577], published separately as <HI REND="italics">California:  The Wonder of the Age</HI>
079.sgm: (New York, 1850).  By contrast, Daniel B. Woods, in his <HI REND="italics">Sixteen Months at the Gold Diggings</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Packing our baggage upon a mule, and taking a lunch in our fists, we set out on our return to Sacramento, and walked the whole distance in a day; making the latter part of the walk through a drenching rain.  Wet and weary, we put up at the "United States Hotel"--got a good supper--rolled ourselves in our wet blankets--laid down upon the floor,--and had a sound and refreshing night's rest.  This was about as good a hotel as we found in California, but it had no beds.<ANCHOR ID="n7-41">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: Such a luxury is almost unknown there.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-41">The earliest Sacramento City Directory, for 1851, lists a United States Hotel, T. Moore, proprietor, at 278 J Street.  By 1852 there was another establishment by this name, Turpin &amp; Co., proprietor, at 43 Front Street.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>That portion of the valley of the Rio Americano that we saw, is well adapted to agricultural purposes--has a good soil--is tolerably well watered and timbered; is generally hilly,--not unlike the country along the Mohawk river in this State.</p><P>We found at Sacramento, Mr. S. M. Hamilton of our company, who was engaged in trading.  He kindly gave us quarters in his tent.  In a few days we were joined by Messrs. Sylvester Gardner, N. Carman, E. S. Boardman, and Major C. J. Fox, of our company, and S. W. Wisner, Esq., who had come from Lockport to California, via. St. Louis, and over-land route.  They had been at work on the Yuba river.  They had been tolerably successful, and looked as if they had well earned what they had got.  With beards of a month's growth, sun scorched, or bronzed complexions, they would have hardly have been recognized by their friends at home.  They had suffered a good deal from sickness.  Most of them had made up their minds to spend the rainy season in Sacramento and San Francisco.  J. M. Spencer, and Wm. Head, two others of our company, had proviously come down from the mines, and built a log house upon a beautiful location on the Sacramento, with the intention of being pre-emptionists.  They will soon, if they persevere, possess a valuable farm.<ANCHOR ID="n7-42">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-42">Spencer, at least, remained in California for long periods after 1849.  A biographical sketch of him in <HI REND="italics">An Illustrated History of Southern California</HI>
079.sgm: (Chicago, 1890), p. 109, at which time he was living in retirement in San Diego, recites that he was born at Pittstown, N. Y., in May, 1820, early in life moved to Niagara County with his father, a miller, and at Lockport in 1848 married Miss Marian Niles.  After coming to California in the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:<P>While remaining at Sacramento, I attended to calls in my profession, with no intention however of pursuing a regular practice.  I left about the first of December and came down to San Francisco, preparatory to starting for home.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<P>In coming down the Sacramento I had a good opportunity to see its valley from the hurricane deck of the steamboat; and my first favorable impressions were fully confirmed.  The soil is fertile; the principal objection to farm operations there, is the liability to the occurrence of such a flood as has just been had.<ANCHOR ID="n7-43">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: To obviate this, the principal location of buildings must be back three miles from the river, upon the high grounds.  It must be as it is with some of the large farms in the valley of the Genesee.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-43">The notable flood of January 9, 1850, hit Sacramento after McCollum's departure.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>Benetia [Benicia], is another of the embryo cities of California.  It is at the head of San Pablo Bay, on the strait between that and the Suisson Bay.  There is already there, five or six hundred inhabitants.  It is the head quarters of the U.S. troops in California; there is a cantonment, and barracks are building.  It is an advantageous location; ships from the ocean--of the largest class, can reach it.  The country about it is hilly, but capable of cultivation.  There were several fields of wheat in the neighborhood, that looked promising.<ANCHOR ID="n7-44">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-44">Benicia, founded in 1847 on the Straits of Carquinez, in 1849 was selected as the site of the U.S. naval and military headquarters in California, but its early hope of becoming the State's premier city soon faded, only briefly revived while it was officially the capital, from May 18, 1853, to February 25, 1854.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>While at Sacramento I witnessed the first movement towards the formation of a state government.  It was the election to pass upon the constitution, and elect state officers, a state legislature, and members of Congress.<ANCHOR ID="n7-45">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: It was a novel sight, and not incapable of producing interesting reflections.  It was giving a form to chaos--a modeling from a state of existence, purely elementary, a government and laws--our institutions--upon a far off and a little time since, a foreign soil.  I will leave to politicians the discussion of the right and wrong of the Mexican war; but regarding one of its immediate results, I could not avoid the conclusion that it was an end that helped to justify the means.  Here was a region fitted by soil, climate--and eminently by its geographical position--to become the abode of civilization; a theatre for all the blessings that grow out of it, to be realized in their fullest fruition.  Here was a capacious bay scooped out, as if intended to be the shelter and haven of rest for a long track of ocean navigation, the common highway of a large amount of the commerce of the world; at its head a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:spot to found a city, and become the commercial mart of an extended region lying upon the shores of the Pacific.  All this was discovered by, and known to Europeans almost as soon as was the mouth of the Hudson, the St. Lawrence, Massachusetts and the Chesapeake bays; all in fact, of the northern portion of this continent.  But it fell into poor hands.  The Spanish owners, indolent, bigoted, supine; sent there its priests to become its rulers, who making neophytes and semi-bondsmen of the simple natives, drew them around their ecclesiastical establishment to scratch the soil--to be generally as poor agriculturalists as they were badly instructed religionists.  And off, in other detached and favorite localities, would be the solitary <HI REND="italics">ranche</HI>
079.sgm: of a foreign adventurer, or a mixed blood, native of the soil--self endowed with princely possessions of half cultivated fields, or cattle ranges.  There was a show of military possession--a mixed military and ecclesiastical rule.  The lazy Spanish ship was seen but seldom in the bays of the distant, neglectedcolony; and the ships of other nations went there but seldom, for its only commercial products were a few ship loads of hides and tallow.  The region was as unprofitable, as it was undeserved by Spain.  Revolution, made it a province of Mexico; and the change of masters was even for the worse.  Mexican rule was blighting and unprofitable as the Spanish had been, with the addition that anarchy prevailed; no enterprize was aroused--no measures taken to improve the country.  It was a political, physical, and moral waste.  Such a country had by the chance of war fallen into the hands of the American branch of the Anglo Saxon race.  There was about to be planted upon its soil our republican institutions; and in a broad and rapid current, there was a population of our people flowing into it, who would improve its natural advantages; turn its wastes into fruitful fields; make a rapid stride in human progress, and by the wonderful achievements of peaceful enterprize and industry, make amends for the honors and sacrifices of war.  I have some doubts about the maxim, that the "end justifies the means;"--but certainly, great good to our own country, to civilization and good government <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:every where, is coming out of the freeing of this favored country from Mexican rule.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-45">This election took place on the stormy day of November 13, 1849.  California's constitutional convention had done its work at Monterey between September 3 and October 13, 1849.</NOTE>
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079.sgm:varying, as all interior countries vary, with the sea coast--and especially, with reference to the trade winds.  In the aggregate the climate of the interior of California is far better than that of the sea coast.</p><P>I found at San Francisco, Majors Cook and Fox and Mr. Bradley, of our original company, who had made up their minds, as I had, to start for home; and also Mr. Wentworth of Lockport.  Mr. W. W. Nichols was there, but had determined to remain.  I much regretted the failure to meet there with Col. E. Jewett of our company.  He had remained at San Francisco, after his return with me from the northern mines--for a greater portion of the time in feeble health, the latent effects of his sickness upon the Isthmus; but had left a few days before my arrival.  His destination was the sea coast near Santa Clara and Santa Barbara; his errand, the search for coal and quicksilver--or in fact, a general geological and mineralogical survey.  He was employed by some capitalists at San Francisco to accompany the expedition, and was to have an interest in any discoveries made.  I shall hope to hear of his success as will all of those who were his companions in the California adventure--a wide circle of acquaintances and friends at home--and the "troops of friends," he made in San Francisco.  His acknowledged scientific attainments, that were of little use to him when with me delving, and lifting rocks, under a hot sun, in the southern mines, it is hoped, will prove available in the new enterprise he has undertaken.<ANCHOR ID="n7-46">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-46">Jewett's subsequent history is set forth in the Introduction.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>Those of us who were returning, had taken into the account that the rainy season (when little could be done at the mines,) was approaching; expenses of living were enormous; even if any, or all of us, concluded to try another season in the mines, it was about as cheap coming home as staying there during the rainy season; and besides, there were those at home who had a stronger claim upon us than any that existed in California.</p><P>We took passage in the ship <HI REND="italics">New Orleans</HI>
079.sgm: for Panama; paying one hundred dollars each for our passage.<ANCHOR ID="n7-47">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: We were forty-six days in making the trip.  The voyage was generally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:a pleasant one--very little occurring worthy of note--save perhaps, what follows:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-47">I find unaccountable McCollum's saying that he and his fellows left San Francisco in the ship <HI REND="italics">New Orleans</HI>
079.sgm:.  Neither the arrival nor the departure of a ship by this name is recorded among the contemporary shipping notices in the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
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079.sgm:observed.  As it begun to fill from the mighty conduit that had towered up to it, it grew dense and black, as if gorged and surfeited from its vast reservoir!</p><P>In the afternoon, we had a drenching shower, as if the surcharged cloud was returning back to the ocean the contribution it had levied in the morning.</p><P>We saw other Water Spouts in our voyage, but none that deserved mentioning, after we had witnessed the one I have attempted to describe.</p><P>Our stay at Panama was but a few hours, which we improved by calling upon the acquaintances we had made during our long sojourn there on our way out; they seemed glad to see us, for which we thanked them in as good Spanish as we could command, and hurried off to Gorgona; had a pleasant walk over the Isthmus, after a long confinement on ship-board; hired a mule train to take our baggage at the exorbitant price of $14 per cwt.  From Gorgona we went down to Chagres in a canoe, where we had to wait two days for the Steam-ship <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: to arrive and discharge her passengers.  Took passage in the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, and put into Havana, to await the arrival of the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
079.sgm: from New Orleans, to which we were to be transferred.  Sailed for New York, and then as fast as steam could carry us progressed homewards, where we arrived, and had a greeting from old friends and neighbors, that for a time made us forget the hardships and privations we had endured.<ANCHOR ID="n7-48">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-48">The <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: was on hand at Chagres by January 26, and reached Havana February 1.  The <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
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079.sgm:his foe, by the outrages they have committed upon the whites in Oregon.<ANCHOR ID="n8-49">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-49">The bitterness of the Oregon gold seekers, and the violence of their reaction, toward the California Indians, is reported by Theodore Johnson and others, from first-hand observation; see also the dictation by John E. Ross to H. H. Bancroft, 1878, a manuscript in the Bancroft Library, concerning his own participation in the Indian-hunting.  The Whitman Massacre and the Cayuse War which followed did much to condition the minds of the Oregonians.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>A QUERY ANSWERED.--It is often wondered why the gold was not before discovered:--It is in a region where there was, up to the period of the discovery, no residents but wild Indians.  The digging of Capt. Sutter's mill race, was the first occasion of breaking the ground, in all the mineral region.  An occasional traveller, trapper, or hunter, had no occasion, of course, to excavate the earth.  There is no trace of any modern knowledge of the gold, before the discovery alluded to, save perhaps, an occasional hint from hunters and trappers, that was not to be relied upon.</p><P>WOMEN.--There is encouragement for respectable unmarried females, to go to California;--especially industrious ones, qualified for useful labor; and they may rely upon it, labor is respected there, as it should be every where.  Those who would not labor there would not be respectable.  No where on earth would her sex be a better protection.  The employment would be the keeping of boarding houses; that of seamstresses; ordinary household labor, &amp;c.; and although Mrs. Farnham's plan of taking young women there as to a market, was objectionable;<ANCHOR ID="n8-50">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: still there is no harm in assuring unmarried women that there is a host of young men and bachelors, who intend to be permanent residents of California; who would make as good husbands as any left behind in the old states.  The state of society in California--though it may be for some time less refined,--will be free from many of the evils that exist in the old states.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-50">Eliza W. Farnham was the widow of Thomas J. Farnham, celebrated for his narrative of an overland journey from Peoria to Oregon in 1839.  Her curious prosposal to improve the morals of the miners by taking out a company of women was given out to the New York newspapers on February 1, 1849, just before McCollum embarked for California.  In her <HI REND="italics">California In-Doors and Out</HI>
079.sgm: (New York, 1856), she says that more than 200 women communicated with her after the open letter was published.  Only three accompanied her to California, but she attributes this to an illness of two months which beset her after the publication of her letter, disarranging all her plans.  Mrs. Farnham in her book is vague as to when she got to California, but in a letter of December 30, 1849, printed in the Buffalo <HI REND="italics">Daily Courier</HI>
079.sgm:<P>HEALTH OF CALIFORNIA.--My opinions will perhaps be found to differ with some others of my own profession, who have been to California.  I cannot regard it generally, as an unhealthy region.  There is sickness and death there; a much larger per cent, than is usual, in any of the old states, I admit.  But there are causes for it independent of any thing that can be charged as peculiar to the country.  Take from our New England states the same number of men that have gone from the old states to California; let them be enervated by a long sea <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:dysenteries, scurvy, and congestive fevers.  The first named diseases are much promoted by change of habits and exposures; especially by wading in the water in the wet diggings.  The dysenteries are malignant, attended with severe purgings that it is difficult to arrest, except in its early stages.  The bilious fevers are generally of a mild type; other diseases, much as in this region.  Good appetites are prevalent in the mines, and that helps vastly to get along with coarse food and poor cooking.  There is more poor liquor drank in California, than in any other part of the world.  I saw few cases of sickness in the mines that were not clearly attributable to enervated constitutions, exposure, excessive labor, intemperance, or other imprudences.<ANCHOR ID="n8-51">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-51"><P>F.P. Wierzbicki, himself a doctor, in his <HI REND="italics">California As It Is, and As It May Be, or, A Guide to the Gold Region</HI>
079.sgm: (San Francisco, 1849), notes that the months of July, August, and part of September were sickly in the mines, and particularly on the Feather and Yuba rivers.  In general, his views were in accord with McCollum's, for he said, "The sickness is owing to the extreme heat and carelessness on the part of the miners; some of them work in the hottest hours of the day, and sometimes not protecting sufficiently their head and body from the scorching rays.  Fevers, diarrhoea and dysentery are the complaints commonly met with--occasionally, scurvy shows itself; it is more apt to happen in winter time...."</p><P>One bane of the mining regions, poison oak, none of the doctors seem to have noticed, but William McIlvaine says eloquently of the Wood's Creek area:  "Many of the miners were suffering with cutaneous diseases, caused by contact with poisonous plants, of which the country is full."  McIlvaine, op. cit., p.17.</p></NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>BUFFALONIANS.--Our city of the lakes, is well represented in the mines, and in the cities of California.  They have generally carried to California their home energies and indomitable perseverance; and are "bound to succeed.<ANCHOR ID="n8-52">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-52">Many gold hunters from Buffalo traveled overland; and others traveled, before, with, and after McCollum on the Isthmus route.  Aside from W. H. Hecox and William Lovering, McCollum's fellow-passengers on the second voyage of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, the Buffalo <HI REND="italics">Daily Courier</HI>
079.sgm:, February 1, 1849, has letters from Chagres, January 2-3, and from Cruces, January 8, by a townsman who went out to the Isthmus on the first voyage of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:.  Hecox tells of others who had reached Panama by March 18; and two Buffalonians, R. D. Foy and E. N. Hulbert, are recorded among the passengers when the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: sailed from New York on April 17.  Indeed, the <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
079.sgm: printed a series of reports by Foy, formerly a partner in the firm which published the paper, in its issues of May 16, May 17, June 23, and December 30, 1849, by which time Foy had returned from California.  Some of the townsfolk also traveled less usual routes; the <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
079.sgm:<P>AN EXTRA TRIP.--While on the Towallernes [Tuolumne], myself and three companions from the western and southern states, concluded to go further up that stream than explorers had generally advanced.  Some negroes had preceded us, and returning, reported large "lumps" in that quarter.  We travelled up the river, and soon began to find--not gold--but "hills of difficulty" equal to any that John Bunyan ever dreamed of.  They made in upon either side, to the water's edge in many places, leaving but a narrow gorge for the river to flow through.  Climbing the high steep banks, and descending them again, we would soon come to another narrow, and the same rather fatiguing ceremony would have to be repeated.  Coming to a spot where the banks were from five to six hundred feet high, we resolved to give up the expedition rather than attempt to climb them.  We took our back track, and it had not improved any in our absence; and arrived at our camp on Wood creek, wearied, and resolved to "prospect" in that quarter no more.  We had been beyond the gold region, and beyond where there had ought to be any gold, if any body but the gatherers of samphire on Dover cliffs, is expected to go after it.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<P>WILD CATTLE.--In most of the mining regions there are wild cattle; or domestic ones that have become wild, being penned but once a year for the purpose of marking the calves.  The bulls are cross, and very apt to attack men, especially if enraged by having any thing red placed in their sight; even a red pocket handkerchief.  They go in large droves, and when upon a "stampede" the miners give them a wide berth.  They have owners, but the miners often appropriate one to their own use.  The beef is excellent.</p><P>THE POLICY OF OUR GOVERNMENT.--The fact must be generally known, that thus far, the mineral region has been thrown open to adventurers without reference to country or color; the rich deposits of a region that has become a part of our public domain, have been as free as the waters that course its streams.  This is certainly a liberal policy; more liberal, I venture to assume, than would have been practiced by any other government on earth, under similar circumstances.  So far, perhaps, this liberal policy has been for the best; and the mineral region should continue free, and by all means, continue the property of the government.  Not an acre of the best portions of it should be sold.  The direct effect of its sale would be monopoly; the giving of CAPITAL an advantage over LABOR.  Let labor continue as now to have free scope there, for there are few spots on earth where it is not hampered.  Let us have one aristocracy of labor, as it now exists there, and must continue to exist, unless capital is allowed to control the wealth that is so broad-cast in the soil.  But I would have government derive a revenue--a princely revenue--from the gold region; in the form of a per cent. exaction for every pound of gold that is produced.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: A forcible system of collection--one that would guard any considerable evasion or fraud, could be easily instituted.  And how could the cause of REAL philanthropy, touching that great national curse, negro slavery, be subserved, by devoting every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:dollar thus acquired to the objects of the American Colonization Society!  How appropriate too, would be such a disposition of it!  If, as it is now apprehended, slave territory gets any extension by means of our new acquisition of territory, what better offset could humanity demand, than such a measure?</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1">After this was written, I was pleased to observe, that the Hon. T. Butler King, in his report to Congress, had formally proposed the exacting by government, of an ounce on each pound of gold produced.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n8-53">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:<LB><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-53">King's report is cited in Note 40.  He was sent out to California in the spring of 1849 as President Taylor's personal adviser on the situation in California with regard to Statehood.  His proposal was not, as McCollum intimates to exact a tax of one ounce on each pound of gold produced, but to require a permit or license to dig or collect gold for one year, the price being set at one ounce or $16.  The proceeds from this licensing system he did regard as a tax, suggesting that a suitable proportion of the amount collected be used for internal improvements in California, which would reduce the cost of living in the mines.  Thus the tax would pay for itself, to the great satisfaction of the miners.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>FOREIGNERS IN THE MINES.--I cannot in justice, speak approvingly of the conduct of a large proportion of our people, in California in one respect.  Whatever may have been the right policy of our government in the first instance, the "golden gates" have been thrown wide open, and the people of one country have just as good a right there as of another.  This is not practically conceded as it should be.  In many instances injustice is done to foreigners; a spirit of domineering is exercised over them--they are denied the common rights of the mines, and often insulted.  And again, the civilized portions of the native Californians, are generally humane and hospitable; many of them excessively so; this is not always repaid in kind.  I have nothing to say of the wild Indians--kindness toward them would be mostly labor lost; they seem almost incapable of appreciating the offices of humanity.  But generally, our people have forgotten that a conquered and submissive people, are entitled in all things to be on a par with the conquerors.  The Chileans are generally disliked by our people; so far as I saw them they were quiet and inoffensive.<ANCHOR ID="n8-54">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-54"><P>King's report of March 22, 1850, is again worth noting on the subject of foreigners in the mines.  After discussing the gold discoveries in 1848 he said, in part:  ".... on the commencement of the dry season in 1849, people came into the Territory from all quarters--from Chili, Peru, and other States on the Pacific coast of South America--from the west coast of Mexico--the Sandwich Islands, China, and New Holland....</p><P>"The American emigration did not come in by sea, in much force, until July and August, and that overland did not begin to arrive until the last of August and first of September [but the earliest arrivals came along in late July].  The Chilinos and Mexicans were early in the country.  In the month of July it was supposed there were fifteen thousand foreigners in the mines....</p><P>"The foreigners resorted principally to the southern mines, which gave them a great superiority in numerical force over the Americans, and enabled them to take possession of some of the richest in that part of the country.  In the early part of the season, the Americans were mostly employed on the forks of the American and on Bear, Uba, and Feather Rivers.  As their numbers increased they spread themselves over the southern mines, and collisions were threatened between them and the foreigners.  The latter, however, for some cause, either fear, or having satisfied their cupidity, or both, began to leave the mines late in August, and by the end of September many of them were out of the country.</p><P>"It is not probable that during the first part of the season there were more than five or six thousand Americans in the mines.  This would swell the whole number, including foreigners, to abuot twenty thousand the beginning of September...."</p></NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>CAPT. SUTTER.--Fort Sacramento, or Sutter's Fort, is located at the confluence of the Rio Americano with the Rio Sacramento.  This is a marked spot, in California; is intimately associated with the events of the conquest of the country--the discovery of gold--and all that has transpired there.  Its founder is a prodigy of enterprise, perseverance, and courage.  His history would make a volume in which fact and reality would be "stranger than fiction."  He is the Daniel Boone of the valley of the Sacramento.  He is a native of Switzerland; was in early life an officer in the French army.  Emigrating to the United States, after a series of extraordinary adventures, he capped the climax of adventure, by seeking a home, with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:few followers as hardy as himself, in the interior of Upper California.  Few homes have been more isolated; further away from civilization; than the one he so strangely selected.  Behind him was the vast unexplored regions--the long range of the Sierra Nevada mountains and the "Great Basin"; before him, and upon either hand, a wilderness, of woodland and prairie, but here and there a ranche, a mission station, and a wide expanse of ocean!</p><P>Taking possession of his ground, he managed to defend himself and his few followers, until they had erected a fort, which was strengthened from time to time, until it was proof against his assailants.  At times however, they would hem in the isolated garrison, and reduce its inmates to famine; but partly by force, and partly by the law of kindness he gradually tamed his wild neighbors, and used them in the cultivation of large tracts of land; not as slaves, but vastly bettering their condition, by allowing them a comfortable sustenance for their labor.  He became, perhaps, the largest wheat grower in America.  He usually employed from two to three hundred Indians.  In this isolated way he lived; hospitable to those of our countrymen, who visited him on their over-land expeditions to California; protecting them when they needed it; and when the war commenced, affording to our troops in California, his zealous aid and co-operation.  What a change he lives to witness! with all which he is well pleased; and he well deserves to be esteemed, as he generally is, by the tens of thousands of new neighbors that the discovery of gold has made for him.<ANCHOR ID="n8-55">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-55">Sutter was to the Forty-niners perhaps the best-known resident of California, an object of interest to all who laid eyes on him.  His life since coming to America in 1834 and to California in 1839 was sufficiently extraordinary, even had he not ornamented it with fables, as for instance that he was an "ex-captain of the Royal Swiss Guards of Charles X of France."  Erwin G. Gudde has edited <HI REND="italics">Sutter's Own Story</HI>
079.sgm: (New York, 1936) from his manuscript reminiscences in the Bancroft Library, but this must be read in conjunction with the critical biography by John Peter Zollinger, <HI REND="italics">Sutter, The Man and His Empire</HI>
079.sgm:<P>MOCCASINS.--The half civilized or Mission Indians, who manage by working in the mines, and in other ways, to get money, spend it without stint for such things as strike their fancy.  One of our party happened to have in his trunk, a pair of beaded moccasins, such as are sold at Niagara Falls.  Two Indians got their eyes on them-the price was fixed at an ounce, ($16); both claimed the bargain, and the difficulty had to be settled by separating the moccasins; each paying an ounce.</p><P>THE RUSH TO CALIFORNIA.--I am not apprehensive that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:time will soon come when the mineral region will be exhausted; and there is a vast field of employment in California in other branches of business; but from all I hear, especially from the western states, I fear too great a rush this season, and principally on account of provisions.  Last year a very large supply was taken out, a large surplus of many articles, great losses ensued.  This year, it is much to be feared the supply will fall far short of the demand.<ANCHOR ID="n8-56">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-56">These remarks, pointed like most other comments McCollum offers, were abundantly vindicated.  Anxious to avoid the waste and loss of 1849, the goldseekers of 1850 took along insufficient supplies, and suffered accordingly.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>PROSPECTIVE.--I think California will in the end form an exception to other mining countries.  The business of mining will be systematized; there will be mixed pursuits of mining, farming and manufacturing.  The earnings in different pursuits will be equalized.</p><P>BRIEF HINTS TO CALIFORNIA ADVENTURERS.--I came away from California, with generally favorable impressions of the country; as a field of enterprise and adventure; well suited to the habits and character of our people.  Gold digging is not the only business to be pursued there.  There is a great state to build up; an opening for enterprise and industry in all the varied, mixed pursuits of life.  Agriculture, especially that branch of it which includes stock breeding, to produce beef, hides and tallow, for domestic and foreign markets, is to be an important branch of business.  Wool growing, has a prospect of success there, unequalled in any other portion of the U.States.  Where land may be had now, by settling upon it, and its title ultimately secured at government price; vast tracts, upon which both cattle and sheep will subsist for the year round, in good condition, without the expense of cultivating, harvesting and foddering; I cannot conceive any other than good prospects for the grazer and wool grower.  The mining business will be permanent.  If the wet and dry diggings, as they are now termed, run out, the earth, other than in the streams and ravines, and the quartz rock, will be worked by machinery.  And I look for the discovery of other minerals than gold; or rather, for additional discoveries of them: silver, quick-silver, and coal, especially.  Where can the plough, the harrow, the hoe and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:or tent arrangements, your provisions, &amp;c., that will depend upon circumstances that cannot be anticipated even by one who has been in the mines; but but [ <HI REND="italics">sic</HI>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
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079.sgm:"rondo and lulo," cant-game, and roulette.  At the aristocratic, number one establishments, no bet is allowed of less than one ounce, ($16.)  At all, bets are allowed equal in amount to the capital of the bank, which is generally from $3 to $10,000.  Some of the keepers of gambling tables have become princely rich, are rather the leading men of the city, and the owners of some of the best city property.</p><P>One great cause of a loose state of morals in San Francisco, is the absence of female society and female influence.  There are not over fifty American women, and but few others in a population of 30,000.</p><P>There is an Episcopal church, a comfortable building, with benches instead of pews;--it is under the care of our much esteemed pastor of the quarter deck of the <HI REND="italics">Nyantic</HI>
079.sgm: --the Rev. Mr. Mines.  The services are regular, and well attended.  There is a Presbyterian minister and society that hold their meetings in a tent, and a Baptist minister and society, that were preparing a place of worship.</p><P>The amusements are as variable, unique, and eccentric as the character of the population.  There are masquerade balls, "model artists," theatrical corps, circuses, negro minstrels;--all well patronized.  Admission to circus, pit $3, boxes, $5; other amusements, at about the same rate.  On one occasion a pompous handbill made its appearance:--"Mrs. Foyle, from the main army in Mexico" would give a masquerade ball, on " <HI REND="italics">Sunday</HI>
079.sgm: evening," at "Washington Hall."  She gave high sounding names as references for her "eminent respectability," and talents for conducting the concern; and wound up with the assurance that an efficient police would be present to preserve order, and that the "most strict <HI REND="italics">religious</HI>
079.sgm: decorum would be observed."</p><P>The question is often asked, "How do people live who are sick, and out of money in California?"  They get along better than the unfortunate and destitute anywhere else in the world.  There is a fellow-feeling there, a spirit of active, practical benevolence.  Charity offerings are made upon a scale of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:to "raise the wind," and are not looking for letters will place themselves in the lines to sell out to those who are the most anxious to get their letters and go back to the mines.  This is seemingly an extravagant accout of the matter, I am aware, but it falls short of giving the reader an adequate idea of the immense amount of letters that the steamers bring to San Francisco, and of the throng that rush after them in their intense anxiety to hear from home.  And is it not an interesting moral spectacle? the heart, the affections, the kindlier feelings of our nature, are involved in it.  These silent messengers that have found their way thousands of miles over earth and ocean, bring tidings from HOME, and those that are cherished and loved there.  It is a sad thing to be far, far away, from one's own hearth stone, and all the fond associations that cluster around it; but it is a moment of relief, of joy and gladness, when you can trace there a familiar hand, that assures you that wide seas have not sundered affections, or absence chilled them; that there are those that still hope for you and care for you; that ALL IS WELL, when you most hope that all should be well.</p><P>The steamers that arrive at San Francisco bring out loads of newspapers other than those that come in the mails.  The bulk of them are from our Atlantic cities, and New Orleans, the <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Delta</HI>
079.sgm: predominating.  They are mostly brought by passengers on speculation; many of them paying their passage by the operation.  A dollar is the uniform price for a single copy.  They are bought up with great avidity; and when San Francisco is supplied, peddlers of them put off to Sacramento, Stockton and the mines.</p><P>Masons and Odd Fellows Lodges are already instituted in San Francisco, Sacramento and Stockton; and are both useful, especially in the dispensation of charities.</p><P>There are two newspapers in San Francisco:  <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
079.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
079.sgm:.  Several others were starting.  On the arrival of steamers extras are thrown out as soon as in our large cities.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>MAJOR E. W. COOK'S RECOLLECTIONS OF THE MINERAL REGION:--GO TO SACRAMENTO.--TRIP TO THE NORTHERN MINES.--RIO AMERICANO.--GO TO WORK.--THE ROCKER.--PROSPECTING.--LUCK.--OUR EARNINGS.--HOT WEATHER.--HARD WORK.--GAME.--TRIP TO THE COSUMNES.--SPLENDID SCENERY.--THE WOLF THAT WANTED BREAKFAST.--OUR ENCAMPMENT.--THE WILD INDIANS.--RETURN TO SAN FRANCISCO.--DRY DIGGINGS AND WET DIGGINGS.</p><P>I left the ship in company with eleven of our former association, on our way to the mines; taking passage on board the schooner <HI REND="italics">Odd Fellow</HI>
079.sgm:, to Sacramento.  We paid $20 cash, for our passage; and were two and a half days going the one hundred and fifty miles.</p><P>Arriving at Sacramento, we pitched our tents and remained there three days to lay in provisions, wash our clothes, and procure an ox team to take our baggage to what we had agreed upon as our destination, the north fork of the Rio Americano.  The weather was very warm, and with our ox team, we of course travelled slow, occupying nearly two days in reaching within ten miles of our destination, which was but fifty miles from Sacramento.  Taking a fancy to the spot where our team had deserted us, and judging from indications, that we were in the "diggings," we pitched our tents and commenced the campaign, first, arranging our <HI REND="italics">household</HI>
079.sgm: affairs--agreeing to take turns in cooking--and sending out a delegation to some mines in the neighborhood, to get a little insight into the business of digging and washing.  We had brought along with us rockers,<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:tin pans,<ANCHOR ID="n10-2">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: shovels, spades and pickaxes.  It was, in one respect, an inauspicious beginning, for the thermometer stood at 118 in the shade.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">The <HI REND="italics">Rocker</HI>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-2">The common tin milk pan, with a large rim, to make it stronger, and easier to handle.  This is used to carry dirt to the hopper, and as indicated above.  In the absence of the rocker, the whole operation is performed by that; with frequent rinsings, or pouring off of all the water and the dirt, the gold is precipiated at the bottom of the pan.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>We all worked in our locality, a mile from any other operators.  The face of the country where we were, was that of oak-openings, hill and dale, with a pretty plentiful supply of surface rocks; the soil, sand and gravel.  There was no reliable indications as to where the gold most abounded; we experimented from spot to spot, for several days with indifferent success.  I will try to give the reader an idea of the lottery like business of gold digging as we found it.  Little is gained, even by experience, in fixing upon spots to dig.  The science of mineralogy or geology is of little avail;--chance governs the whole matter, save that reddish earth is a pretty reliable indication of gold.  Almost everything depends upon luck.  Much time is spent in leaving tolerably good locations, to go "prospecting," to find better ones.  It is often with gold diggers, as with the hunters after broomsticks, who pass by tolerable fair ones, and finally, after getting almost through the woods, cut a very poor one.  The best earth is found in the bottom of ravines, and gulches,<ANCHOR ID="n10-3">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: though this rule has its exceptions.  We stayed at Smith's bar <ANCHOR ID="n10-57">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: about six weeks; sometimes meeting with very good success, and others, finding no earth that would yield what is regarded any thing like a good day's work.  No one of our company, during the time, got over two ounces in any one day.  I think the average yield for the whole six weeks, was about an ounce per man.  There were lucky ones, and unlucky ones; some that worked harder than the rest.  When <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:it was dull, and the weather was oppressively hot, we would lay idle, or hunt, for recreation, and to obtain fresh meat.  None of us were very sick, yet much time was lost in consequence of sickness.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-3"><HI REND="italics">Gulches</HI>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-57">Smith's Bar, like Beal's Bar which Cook mentions below, was located on the North Fork of the American, just above its confluence with the South Fork.  With other diggings higher up, both are shown on Jackson's <HI REND="italics">Map of the Mining Districts of California</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Our work was mostly done in the forenoon.  After dinner we would lay around under the shade of trees;--the weather was oppressively hot; at times, not a breath of air would be stirring, and we would be driven from the shade to the waters of the river, for relief.  Toward evening, we would resume our labor for a short period.  The stock of provisions we carried with us to the mines, lasted until within two weeks of the period of our departure, when we were obliged to purchase at enormous rates:--25 cents per lb. for flour; 40&cent; for pork; a dollar a bottle for molasses and vinegar.  We purchased at Beal's bar, a mile above [below?] us, where some traders had located; and where a company had turned the river from its bed, and have since, from a bar, taken over $100,000 worth of gold.</p><P>In our company were several successful hunters, and in consequence, we were not without fresh venison, and game much of the time; in fact had some for sale for which we realized good prices.  One of our company, on one occasion, shot three deer before breakfast.</p><P>Deer are plenty--a black tailed species, about the size of our fallow deer; are generally in good condition.  Elk are not often in the vallies except when driven down by the deep snows of the winter.  There are two kinds of wolves, and plenty of both; a large grey species, resembling the hyena; and the <HI REND="italics">kiota</HI>
079.sgm: or prairie wolf, about the size of our red fox.  There are foxes not unlike our grey ones.  Hares, of the usual size; I preserved the ears of one that were as large as those of an ordinary horse; their meat is fine.  There is also the small grey rabbit similar to those that abound in our New England, and western states.  There is a grey squirrel larger than ours, that lives in the trees like our black squirrel; and another species about the size of our black squirrel that burrows in the ground, like our chipmunks, but in colonies, instead of solitary holes.  The quails <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:fear.  The squaw seemed the Sycorax of the wild region, her face bedaubed with coal-tar paint, her long, black, dishevelled hair extending down over her shoulders from a low depressed skull that had little of the conformation that could be called human; the progeny of the hopeful pair were like so many Calibans:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Hog-born;<LB>Not honored with a human shape."<LB></HI>
079.sgm:</p><P>They were not unlike the families of "root diggers," and snail eaters, described in Mr. Fremont's account of his journies over the Rocky Mountains.  They were motionless--their stare upon us as fixed and intent as if we were the "bad spirits" of their religiouscreed, or as if we were upon an embassy of evil to their wild and inhospitable region.  We walked off, leaving them undisturbed, the "good riddance," undoubtedly, as agreeable to them as to us.</p><P>We were about one hundred and thirty miles south-east from Sacramento, beyond where any considerable number of mines have advanced, though the gold region extends, as ascertained, far on beyond us, up the slope of the Sierra Nevada, and over its summit to Mountain Lake [Lake Tahoe].<ANCHOR ID="n10-58">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: There were miners below us of our own people, several parties of mining "Mission Indians,"<ANCHOR ID="n10-4">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: and, as we were told, lower down, on the Cosumnes, there are extensive grain and grazing ranches, (or farms.)</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-58">This is one of the rare allusions to mining on the east slope of the Sierra in 1849, the more interesting for displaying Cook's understanding of the fact that Lake Tahoe does lie beyond the summit.  The usual concept in 1849-1850 was that the American River rose in this high and beautiful mountain lake.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-4">Half-civilized; those that have been about the Missions.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>We returned to Sacramento, where I remained with the exception of some short trips made in the neighborhood, until I left for San Francisco on my way home.</p><P>I will endeavor to give the reader some idea of the position, or <HI REND="italics">locale</HI>
079.sgm:, of the gold in the mining districts.  In the first place, it is necessary to observe that in <HI REND="italics">all the earth</HI>
079.sgm: that is included in the vast ascertained extent of the mining districts, there is more or less gold pretty uniformly distributed.  No single shovel-full can hardly be obtained, after removing the surface soil, that would not have in it gold in minute quantities.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:earth is not, however, sufficiently impregnated with it to pay for working by hand labor.  In after times, when the dry diggings in the ravines, and the wet diggings in the beds and sides of streams, are exhausted, we may well suppose that the earth elsewhere will be worked by machinery, with profit.  I shall presume that before the casualties occurred, which I shall speak of, the gold had a <HI REND="italics">secondary</HI>
079.sgm: existence--uniform throughout the mineral region--in small lumps, from the size of a small shot to several pounds weight; the forms being as we see them, like those of melted lead, chilled by being thrown upon uneven surfaces.  In the natural process of thousands of years, ravines, or gullies, have been excavated by water in finding its way to the vallies.  As the water has worn away the earth and carried it forward by the force of its current, the gold lumps, from their specific gravity, have settled down,--so that in the bottom of the ravines we find all the gold lumps that were in the earth that occupied the excavated space.  So much for the <HI REND="italics">dry diggings</HI>
079.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">wet diggings</HI>
079.sgm: are the bars in the beds of streams, and the alluvial deposits along their edges.  Here the process has been similar; the flattened forms--scales and small particles--have been made by the attrition and abrasion of rocks, stones<ANCHOR ID="n10-5">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: and gravel, set in motion by the strong and continued currents of water, that have only existed in flood times in the ravines.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-5">Called <HI REND="italics">gulches</HI>
079.sgm:<P>The process, both in the streams and ravines, of separating and giving locality to the gold, has been precisely that of the rockers.  Gold bearing earth being carried along by rapid currents, the gold has been precipitated, as in the rockers.  The dry diggings, are worked in dry seasons by sifting for the lumps; the dirt preserved until the water comes into the ravines, where it is washed for the smaller lumps or particles.</p><P>Although some miners are luckier than others, find bigger lumps, or richer deposits, gold digging is a pretty uniform business.  Success depends mostly upon the amount of hard labor that is performed.  If any one wants to know how to appreciate strength, muscles, sinews, powers of endurance, a constitution <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:of iron, let him go to the mines of California, for it is these that win there, except in the unfrequent cases of hitting upon lumps of uncommon size, or finding pockets<ANCHOR ID="n10-6">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm: of unusual richness.  Such may come, but it should by no means be the main reliance.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-6">These are where from the peculiar position of the rocks, spars exist between them, where gold has lodged, and been retained.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>The grizzly bear of California attains to the enormous size of eleven and twelve hundred pounds; I saw a dead one that weighed one thousand, and measured the fresh foot-print of one that was nine inches across the ball.  One of Capt. Sutter's men told me an amusing story of his own attempt to lasso one of the largest he had ever seen.  He threw the lasso over his head, and while attempting to entangle his legs with it, the bear settled back upon his haunches, seized it with his teeth and paws, and commenced "hauling in" horse and rider.  The hunter leaped from his horse and made his escape, the horse reared and pitched at a furious rate, and by breaking the lasso avoided an uncomfortable "hug" even for a horse.</p></DIV>
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079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX</HEAD>
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079.sgm:destroyed by fire in 1756; soon after which the commerce of the Isthmus declined, and has never since revived, until gold was discovered in California.</p><P> CALIFORNIA was first occupied by the Spaniards in 1769, or rather, this is the period of the first permanent occupancy.  Unsuccessful attempts to found Spanish missions there, commenced as early as 1602.  The French Jesuit Missionaries were there from about 1616 to 1768, when they were expelled.  They were immediately succeeded by the Franciscans, under Spanish auspices, and founded numerous missions upon the coast, and in the interior.  It is stated upon the authority of reliable traditions, that exist in California, that the Missionaries had first to fortify themselves as Capt. Sutter did, and the <HI REND="italics">catch</HI>
079.sgm: their first neophytes, lassoing them by the aid of swift horses, as in the Spanish method of cattle hunting.  After catching and taming a few, at each station, they would be sent out to tole in the wild ones.  They would immediately become the subjects of baptism, be learned to labor, and attached to the stations.  In this way each mission station had attached to it extensive cultivated fields, and immense droves of cattle.  The establishments increased, and were flourishing--the Indians were happy, and their condition improving--until California was separated from Spain by the Mexican revolution; when the missions declined, and were almost exterminated by anarchy, misrule, and being plundered of their property.</p><P> After the decline of the Missionary establishments and up to the period of American occupancy, there was little but attempted revolutions, anarchy and discord.  The Mission establishments were laid waste, and all that tended to civilization and improvement, was on the decline.  No country in the world has, perhaps, ever undergone so rapid a change as is now in progress there.</p><P> Before the Missionary establishments declined--in 1829--the white population of Upper California was estimated to be 8,000, and that of the "Mission Indians," at 30,000; in 1842, the Indians were reduced to 5,000.  In 1831, horned cattle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:were estimated at 500,000; they had decreased to 400,000 in 1842; and all things else had decreased in proportion.  On the first day of January, 1849, the population, exclusive of Indians and Africans, was as follows:--<LB>     Californians,<HSEP>13,000<LB>     Americans,<HSEP>80,000<LB>     Foreigners,<HSEP>50,000</p><P> On the first of January, 1850, the estimate upon reliable authority, was as follows:<LB>Americans,<HSEP>76,000<LB>Californians,<HSEP>13,000<LB>Foreigners,<HSEP>13,000<LB>102,000</p><ANCHOR ID="nA-59">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nA-59">By some lapse of the mind, McCollum's statistics are made to show a decrease in California's population of 41,000 during 1849.</NOTE>
079.sgm:<P>The accounts from our Atlantic cities, and the western and south western states, would justify the conclusion that this population will be increased, at least 50,000, before the first day of July next.</p><P>The Hon. T. Butler King, in his recent able report to the Secretary of War, estimates that $40,000,000 was obtained from the mines last year, and that the amount will reach $50,000,000 this year; which latter estimate is to be far more than realized, if present indications are reliable ones.</p><P>IN view of the discovery of the immense mineral wealth of California--of all the events that are transpiring there--of the great present and prospective value of the accession, as a powerful stride in the fulfillment of the "manifest destiny" of our country--a fact not generally remembered, becomes interesting:--all this came very near being the property of British capitalists!  At one period, when these capitalists were pressing Mexico for a debt of fifty millions of dollars, then due them, the idea was seriously entertained, of ceding Upper California in payment.  The project contemplated an establishment similar to the East India Company.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<P>THE condition of California in 1845, may be inferred from the following extract from a letter, written from there in that year:--"The country never was in a more disorderly, miserable condition, than at the present moment.  We have no government."</p></DIV>
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079.sgm:<HEAD>Five Letters Written From the Isthmus in 1849, by W. H. Hecox.</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>On board the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, Caribbean Sea, Lat 13.35--Long. 78.34.  Feb. 13, '49. Here we are bowling along finely over this delightful sea, the eighth day from New York.--We left that famous city Monday 5th of Sept. [February], at 1/4 before 2 P.M., on board this noble ship.  Dismissing our Pilot off Sandy Hook with our blessing, a loaf of bread, and a small piece of the "habitation your prophet the Nazarite conjured the d--l into," we struck out into the broad Atlantic in a south-easterly direction to about longitude 73 deg.  Then we laid our course south and ran nearly on a straight line as far as the easterly end of the island of Cuba.  The first night among the Islands [February 10] came nearly proving the last of our voyage.  By the gross carelessness of some of the officers of the ship, she was nearly wrecked on one of the many reefs lying between this sea and the Atlantic.  Happily some one discovered the breakers just in time to give the alarm, and caused the engines to be reversed.  Three minutes later and we should have been among them.</p><P>Had a committee of weather-wise gentlemen been duly elected at New York to determine what kind of weather would be most desirable for the voyage, they could not have possibly imagined any which would have compared with that we have constantly experienced since we left home.  It has been most delicious.  Tuesday evening the 6th, it blew some, but only enough to cause the passengers a little agreeable sea-sickness, from which they soon recovered.  One poor fellow, however, from Mass., was that night thrown against the sides of the ship and fractured his knee-pan.  The weather to-day is warm, but not sultry.  The trade wind, blowing from the N. E. keeps all cool, comparatively.  The passengers are in summer clothing, some writing, some reading, some lounging and a few napping.  There are 305 of us on board, a multitude for a ship, and composed as our friend Macbeth says, "of all sorts of people"--all orderly, courteous and obliging.  I have seen no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:gambling on board, and but little drinking.  Sunday last, divine service was performed on board, at which most of the passengers were present.  The officiating gentleman was a Presbyterian minister on his way to California as a missionary.<ANCHOR ID="n-a60">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:</p><P><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n-a60">Johnson, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: is a noble Steamer, but is wanting in many conveniences to make a voyage like this comfortable.  The necessity which exists of limiting the guards of Sea Steamers to the support and protection of the wheels alone, renders it exceedingly difficult to provide them with all the comforts and conveniences to be found on all our Lake boats.  But such as are indispensable to health, should on no account be omitted.  The <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, incredible as it may seem to you, has no bathing room on board, and in this southern climate, nothing is so necessary to insure the health of passengers.</p><P>There are too few servants, in every department.  I could mention many more things which should be amended, or the ship should not be patronized.  Capt. [Charles] Stoddard is a good sailor doubtless, but is not a gentlemanly commander.  All his officers from the Mate down to the Stevedore, are rough, discourteous, and intolerable.  The only real excellent person on board connected with the ship is the Stewardess.  There is inclosed in her unprepossessing exterior, a heart full of the kindliest sympathies.  In the midst of much sickness of Tuesday and part of Wednesday last, surrounded by petulant and complaining invalids, called this way by one party and that way by another, at the same time performing the parts of waiter, doctor and nurse, she always exhibited the same calm, unruffled, patient and agreeable disposition, under all circumstances, and to all men, doing her utmost to alleviate the sufferings of the sick, and to add to the comforts of all.  Such a woman, in such a situation one rarely encounters, and I have deemed it incumbent on me, as I doubt not others will consider it their duty, to publish the actions and applaud the virtues of the humble but most worthy Mrs. Young, the Stewardess of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:.</p><P>I have just come down from an adjourned meeting of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:passengers on the quarter deck, to provide ways and means to cross the Isthmus.  Committees have been appointed to procure mules and to superintend the transportation of baggage.  We expect to find the steamer <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm: at Chagres, and shall in that case, find little difficulty in getting up to Gorgona.  But of all this I will advise you in a P. S. from Chagres.</p><P>Our only Buffalo passengers are Mr. [William] Lovering and myself, and we are both well and in good spirits, and desire to be particularly remembered to all our friends.  The thermometer has ranged for three days past at about 82&deg;, heat is gradually increasing, and we anticipate a little hot weather tomorrow at Chagres.  We are to remain on the ship until our baggage is all embarked, and then we shall take passage direct for Gorgona or Cruces, avoiding Chagres, as we would a hard case with a <HI REND="italics">werry</HI>
079.sgm: doubtful reputation.</p><P>At Panama I will give you a detailed account of our passage of the Isthmus, and one you and your readers can rely upon.  So many exaggerated reports of the difficulties of this passage have been sent to the United States, that it is impossible for a person to get at the real plain facts in regard to it.  It is desirable they should be known, and from me you shall have them.</p><P>W. H. H.</p><P>OFF CHAGRES, Feb. 14, 1849.  Thermometer at 2 P.M. 92&deg; We have at last reached this notorious town, and now lie at anchor under the guns of the Fort, about two miles distant therefrom.  We arrived before the Castle, at 5 o'clock, P.M.; this being the ninth day since we left New York, and our ship having made the best run of any other, outdoing her last trip several hours.</p><P>About five miles northerly up the coast from Chagres we discovered the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: Steamer which left New York, Feb. 1st, lying at anchor with the small River Steamer <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm: alongside receiving her freight.  On running down towards Chagres we saw two other vessels, a topsail schooner and a barque <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:[<HI REND="italics">Marietta</HI>
079.sgm: ] lying at anchor before the town, the latter apparent filled with passengers.  These sights rather depressed our spirits, knowing the limited means of convey[ance] over the Isthmus, and supposing, of course, the passengers of these vessels had by this time secured them all.  As soon as we anchored, however, our committee went on shore to ascertain what could be done, and much to our surprise as well as delight, found that no canoes had been engaged.  The passengers of the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm: were satisfied with securing the services of the <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm:, and had sent no committee to Cruces to engage the mules.  Now it so happens that the <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm: runs up the Chagres River 20 miles only, and there transfers her passengers to the canoes for the residue of the distance.  As we have all the canoes engaged, however, I reckon when they reach this 20 mile point they will find themselves literally in the boat.</p><P>We have learned here from the agent of Howland and Aspinwall that there are but about 100 passengers at Panama, and that they have already engaged their passage in a brig, soon to sail--that the California Mail Steamer arrived at Panama the 20th ult., and sailed for San Francisco the 2d inst, full of passengers--that a British relay steamer will be at Panama about the 1st prox.--That several sail vessels are expected in the meantime--and finally, that there is no sickness on the Isthmus.  So far so good.  We shall all probably disembark to-morrow and the next day, and hope to arrive at Panama in all this week.</p><P>We can see nothing of Chagres from where we lie excepting the Castle, which looks down upon us from a high bluff.  No low ground or marsh is visible from this distance.  The whole coast for miles is bold and high, and in the distance lofty mountains are visible with their peaks "cloud capped."  I will endeavor in my next to give you an accurate description of this highly respectable city of Chagres, which I shall visit to-morrow in the capacity of a canoe committee man.  I shall try to obtain admission to the castle, as I understand it has mounted some beautiful brass pieces, though their carriages are fast falling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:to pieces.</p><P>The thermometer to-day reached 92&deg; Fa[h]renheit--yet with the trade wind blowing constantly, the heat has not been oppressive.  I reckon, however, it will be warm sleeping to-night.</p><P>As a matter of some little curiosity I append a table of latitude and longitudes and distance run for each 24 hours from Sandy Hook.</p><P>Latitude.<HSEP>Longitude.<HSEP>Dist. run.</p><P>6th<HSEP>37.28<HSEP>73.30<HSEP>182</p><P>7th<HSEP>33.57<HSEP>73.<HSEP>215</p><P>8th<HSEP>30.04<HSEP>73.<HSEP>234</p><P>9th<HSEP>26.44<HSEP>72.07<HSEP>206</p><P>10<HSEP>22.48<HSEP>72.18<HSEP>237</p><P>11th<HSEP>20.02<HSEP>74.04<HSEP>196</p><P>12th<HSEP>17.11<HSEP>76.39<HSEP>241</p><P>13th<HSEP>13.55<HSEP>78.54<HSEP>229</p><P>14th<HSEP>9.52<HSEP>79.33<HSEP>251</p><P>and 41 miles to Chagres,<HSEP>41</p><P>2031</p><P>3031 miles from Sandy Hook to Chagres, according to Capt. Stoddard.<HSEP>W. H. H.</p><P>PANAMA, Feb. 23, 1849. Our party consisting of Mr. Lovering, Mr. [George H.] Howard, a young gentleman from Boston, Mr. D. John, a passed midshipman from Newport, R. I., and myself, embarked at Chagres in a canoe on the 16th ult., and arrived here on Monday the 19th.  Our canoe was about 20 feet long, 3 1/2 feet beam and 2 1/2 deep.  About three feet from the stern and running six and a half forward is a roof of cocoa nut tree leaves, elevated about two and a half feet.  This top is circular.  We put into the bottom of the vessel seven trunks, three bags and two boxes.  Our pilot then directed two of us to get in and creep under the covering half way and the other two to get in front and creep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm: ] and no one can tell when there will be another.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:I have no doubt that half the passengers here must re[t]urn home or spend the summer in Panama.  I shall wait patiently a few weeks and if no brighter prospect presents itself, I shall return to the United States.  I shall do this in preference to remaining in this hot latitude through the summer.  Still I hope to get up the coast and if I can do so for love or money, I shall succeed.  There are no such vessels here to take passengers up the coast as represented by the owners of the <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:, and no prospect of any.</p><P>The British Mail Steamer [ <HI REND="italics">New Granada</HI>
079.sgm: ] is looked for to-morrow.  If she reports no vessels from below, up for this port, several will start for home and try another route.  One company from New York city have already pretty much concluded to return to Galveston, Texas, and cross there.  I am pretty well satisfied that not half the passengers now here, will be able to leave for California this summer.  I now regret very much that I did not remain and go over land from St. Louis.  I wish, for the purpose of putting those who design coming this way in possession of some of these facts, that they should be made public.  Let no one come this way who cannot procure a ticket in New York for the steamer on this side.  We offered a gentleman who had two steerage tickets in a Brig which was filled up before we arrived, and which cost him $200, the sum of $500, but he would not touch it.  The sums of $400 and $500 have been offered for cabin passage tickets in the steamers, and refused.  Their original cost is $250.  From this, you can infer what our prospect is here.  There is one consolation however--our health and spirits are good.</p><P>Tell any of my friends to whom I promised to write, that the regular mail will not go from here until the middle of March, and as every other mode of conveyance is doubtful, I shall send them no letters until that time.  W. H. H.</p><P>PANAMA, Feb. 28, 1849. On arriving at Panama we put up at the `Hotel los Americaines," happy to find even an apology for a bed, and to take <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:presented quite an imposing appearance.  It has two front towers, covered with handsome sea shells.  It is a building of some considerable magnitude, but presents rather a squalley appearance when viewed from a distance.  Judging from its dilapidated appearance, it must be in rather reduced circumstances about this time.  Windows are broken, doors are loose upon their hinges, the walls are crumbling down, and the plastering is pealing off.  Every thing about it betokens premature old age, and a degree of indolence, or indifference on the part of the citizens, by no means commendable.  The churches of the city are in a very similar condition.  They are all old, rickety, crazy and wonderful seedy.  There are two markets, the one <HI REND="italics">intra mures</HI>
079.sgm:, and the other without the walls.--They are very similar, except, at one only can fish be procured.  At both, fruit is sold by the dry measure, and meat by the yard, a breakfast will require half a yard, and for a hearty dinner, you had best take a yard and three quarters.</p><P>The first, or lower stories of all the buildings in Panama are occupied by vendors of goods and of liquors, by keepers of eating houses, and by mechanics.  The upper stories are used for dwellings.  There are no dwellings separate from their stores.  You see no handsome houses with pleasant yards and nice gardens; but all is stone and mortar.--There is no cultivated ground in Panama, nor out of it.  Fruits grow spontaneous, and there is no use for the plow.  The inhabitants are of Spanish, Indian and Negro blood.  Many of them are quite fair, while some are as black as ebony.--They are honest and lazy.  They move slowly, speak rapidly, and never run.  Men and women, boys and girls, all smoke; the <HI REND="italics">donkeys</HI>
079.sgm: I believe chew.  No particular regard is had for the Sabbath day.  There are one or two extra services performed in the Churches on this day, and a greater number of cock fights than during the week.  Admission to the cockpit which is free on all other days, costs five cents on Sunday, owing to the greater attraction of the ring.  Shops and dwelling houses are all opened on this day.  Indeed no stranger here knows when Sunday comes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:without consulting the almanac.</p><P>Cock-fighting appears to be one of the principal amusements.  The cocks are not kept in a back yard or coop as with us, but are treated with great consideration and respect.  There is scarcely a balcony that is not occupied by one or more of these chatting, noisy fellows.  They are tied by the leg, but sufficient rope is given them to fly upon the railing, and there they sit all day long, making the welkin ring with their outrageous crowing.  At night to[o], when all is calm and still, some ambitious chanticleer will fly up, flap his wings, and with a crow hoarser and more prolonged than any one our free and enlightened fowls ever aspired to, startle from their dreams the whole neighborhood of men and cocks.  Then commences the animated strife.  Each cock endeavors to outdo his friend in the next balcony--and such a chorus of horrid sounds you never listened to.  It is perfectly appalling.  But the cocks do not monopolize the confusion and noises in Panama.  The bells can with justice set up their claims as competitors.  Morning, noon and at night, there is a constant clang and clatter of iron tongues.  The bell-ringers attached to the different churches, seem to vie with one another to see which can produce the most outrageous noises on their cracked bells.  This being Lent, each hour is announced by a particular peal--and you may be assured we get enough of bell-ringing in Panama.  The introduction of wheel carriages here, would add very essentially to the comfort of the citizens, as the noise, rattle and clatter of these vehicles would nearly equal, if not surpass, the united efforts of the cocks and bells.  I have seen no carriage of any description, not even a wheel, except a wheel of fortune down street, but that has no <HI REND="italics">tire</HI>
079.sgm:, although from its constant employment during the day it ought to have by the time night comes on.</p><P>The Senoritas are not fascinating, because they are not pretty--they are very willing to be gazed at, however, and are inclined to coquetry.  I must confess I prefer something lighter--and less greasy--more graceful, and less indolent, and above all, something which can speak English.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>From the few characteristics of the place and inhabitants I have thus humedly [ <HI REND="italics">sic</HI>
079.sgm: ] detailed, you will doubtless conclude that Panama is " <HI REND="italics">some punkins</HI>
079.sgm:."  It is indeed, and were it not for the hot sun and narrow streets, its ill-planned houses, lazy men and skittish women; its seedy churches, rattling bells and crowing cocks; its bad bread, dirty sugar, sour molasses and tough meats; its smooth skin'd hairless dogs, and emaciated cats; its cheap wines, and intolerable brandy; its cockroaches and smaller vermin; in fine, were it not devoid of every comfort and all the luxuries of life, one might possibly consent to <HI REND="italics">live</HI>
079.sgm: here, were there no other spot on the habitable globe, where he could calmly lay himself down and die.</p><P>Yours truly,</p><P>W. H. H.</p><P>MARCH 18, 1849 <HI REND="italics">To the Courier</HI>
079.sgm::</p><P>Satisfied, after one month's detention in this place, that the chances for getting up to San Francisco are growing beautifully less daily, I shall to-morrow set out on my return to the United States.  Through the politeness of Col. [John B.] Weller, the United States Commissioner for running the boundary between our country and Mexico, I have received permission to return to New Orleans on the government steamer <HI REND="italics">Alabama</HI>
079.sgm:.  This vessel is under his command, and brought out himself and party to Chagres, where she now lies awaiting his orders to sail.  He informed me she would leave on Thursday of this week.</p><P>I am decidedly <HI REND="italics">cured</HI>
079.sgm: of the gold fever.  I never suffered distressingly from the disease--and I know of no more speedy and effectual cure than a month[']s residence in Panama.  There is much sickness here, and some deaths.  Last night two persons died.  One a Mr. Chauncey Hanington [Harrington] from Lockport, a member of Col. Jewett's company.  His disease, I understand, was an inflam[m]ation of the liver, &amp;c.  He leaves a wife and one child in Lockport.  The other members of the company are generally well.  Several of them have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:been sick, but, I am happy to be able to say, are now convalescent.  Young Mr. De Zeug from Clyde, N. Y. died a few days ago.</p><ANCHOR ID="n-a61">*</ANCHOR>
079.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n-a61"><P>A Panama correspondent writing under date of March 20 in the New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:<P>Several Americans have already set out on their return to the United States, and others are preparing to follow.  There is but little hope of getting up the coast for several weeks, and it is impossible, for all who are now here to go up within the next six months.  Still, more are constantly arriving.  The <HI REND="italics">Northerner</HI>
079.sgm: arrived at Chagres about a week ago with 250 passengers, and several sail vessels from different ports in the United States arrive weekly.  The following gentlemen from Buffalo are now here, and are all well:--Harry Waring, Mr. Todd, Mr. Reynolds, Mr. Hudson, Mr. Rice, brother of the writing master, and myself.  Mr. Hudson sails for San Francisco to-morrow on the whaling barque <HI REND="italics">Equator</HI>
079.sgm: --the others have passages engaged.</p><P>Use your efforts to deter all seekers after gold from taking this route, at present.  It will soon be sickly here.  The rainy season commences next month, and then the natives themselves do not escape.  Besides, there is no certainty of finding any kind of conveyance up the coast.  The steamers even, cannot be relied on.  They have no depot of coal at San Francisco or here, and it is highly probable their crews will desert them at the former place.  I would write more but have not time at present.</p><P>Truly yours,</p><P>W. H. H.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Arrival of Vessels and Passengers<LB>at Chagres for California</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>December 27, 1848&ndash;April 30, 1849<LB>ARRIVAL<HSEP>VESSEL<HSEP>PLACE AND DATE OF DEPARTURE<HSEP>NUMBER OF PASSENGERS<LB> 1848<LB>Dec.<LB>27<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Dec.1; New Orleans, Dec. 19<HSEP>193<LB>29<HSEP>Bark <HI REND="italics">John Benson</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Dec. 11<HSEP>(50,60)<LB>1849<LB>Jan.<LB>2<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Dec.23<HSEP>180<LB>7<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Lowder</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans, Dec.28?<HSEP>40<LB>9<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Macon</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans, Dec.10; wrecked at Chagres<HSEP>(30,60)<LB>13<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Caroline E. Platt</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Dec. 20; wrecked at Chagres<LB>14<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Dec. 21<HSEP>(14,50)<LB>16<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Isthmus</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Dec. 25<HSEP>(60,68)<LB>16<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Henrico</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Jan. 10<HSEP>(20,33)<LB>22<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Mary Pennel</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Jan. 2; wrecked at Chagres<LB>24<HSEP>Bark <HI REND="italics">Harriet Bartlett</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Jan. 6<HSEP>(65,66)<LB>29<HSEP>British mail steamer <HI REND="italics">Trent</HI>
079.sgm:<LB><LB>30<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Sovereign</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Baltimore, Jan. 16<HSEP>(50,52)<LB>Feb.<LB>6<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics"> Florida</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans, Jan. 14; held in quarantine after arrival Jan. 30<HSEP>(7,80)</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>6<HSEP>Bark <HI REND="italics"> Templeton</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Jan. 29<HSEP>60<LB>6<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics"> Rawson</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Jan. 20<HSEP>(7,8)<LB>8<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Marion</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Philadelphia, Jan. 21<HSEP>8<LB>14<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Winthrop</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Feb. 1<HSEP>(25,32)<HSEP><LB>14<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Feb. 1<HSEP>317<LB>14<HSEP>Bark <HI REND="italics">Marietta</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Jan. 25<HSEP>(70,100)<LB>14<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Feb. 5<HSEP>305<LB>16<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Eudora</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Jan. 29<HSEP>47<LB>20<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">W. Hazard</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans<HSEP>70<LB>22<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">William Thompson<HSEP>New Orleans<HSEP>64<LB>22<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Bathurst</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Baltimore, Feb. 5<HSEP>(11,42)<LB>23<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Perfect</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans, Feb. 13<HSEP>(40,45)<LB>24<HSEP>Ship <HI REND="italics">Corsair</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Boston, Jan. 31<HSEP>(106,112)<LB>27<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Mary Filkins</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans<HSEP>26<LB>27?<HSEP>British mail steamer <HI REND="italics">Clyde</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP><LB>28<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Sampson</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Feb. 9<HSEP>(70,72)<LB>28<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics"> Sarah</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Feb. 13<HSEP>(55,56,61)<LB>Mar.<LB>6<HSEP>Bark <HI REND="italics">Guilford</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Feb. 15<HSEP>34<LB>7<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Ione</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans<HSEP>6<LB>8<HSEP>Bark <HI REND="italics">S.L. Crowell</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Boston, Feb. 4; New York, Feb. 9<HSEP>(50,51)<LB>8<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Isthmus</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans, Feb. 22<HSEP>45<LB>11<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Northerner</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Mar. 1<HSEP>(150,153)<LB>12<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Alabama</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans, Mar. 2<HSEP>(30,60)<LB>19<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Alida</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Mar.3?<HSEP>53<LB>19<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Galena</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Feb. 8?<HSEP>3<LB>20<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Edwin</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Boston, Mar 2?<HSEP>(27,32)</HI>
079.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>20<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Henrico</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Charleston, Mar. 5<HSEP>(21,22)<LB>24<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Mar. 15<HSEP>338<LB>25?<HSEP>British mail steamer <HI REND="italics">Medeway</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>England via Jamaica<LB>25?<HSEP>Dutch schooner <HI REND="italics">Esthers</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Curacao<LB>27<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Mar. 8; New Orleans, Mar. 20<HSEP>106<LB>30<HSEP>British schooner <HI REND="italics">Sarah Ann</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Honduras<HSEP>11<LB>31<HSEP>British schooner <HI REND="italics">Emily</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Honduras<HSEP>31<LB>31<HSEP>British brig <HI REND="italics">Thetis</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Honduras<HSEP>80<LB>31<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans, Feb. 28<HSEP>(53,58,70)<LB>31<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Major Eastland<HSEP>New Orleans, Mar. 12<HSEP>(105,109)<LB>April<LB>1<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Splendid</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Mar. 10<HSEP>(25,26,35)<LB>1<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Maria Burt</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans<HSEP>30<LB>2<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Viola</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Norfolk, Mar. 10<HSEP>(8,10)<LB>3<HSEP>Sloop <HI REND="italics">South Carolina</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Key West<HSEP>14<LB>3<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Predoza</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans<HSEP>27<LB>4<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Harriet Neal</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Boston, Mar. 12<HSEP>(30,31,33)<LB>4<HSEP>Schooner <HI REND="italics">Mary Maria</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>St. Augustine<HSEP>5<LB>7?<HSEP>Brig.  <HI REND="italics"> St. Andrew</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Baltimore, Mar. 12<HSEP>24<LB>7<HSEP>Bark <HI REND="italics">Santee</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Mar. 22<HSEP>(57,58)<LB>12<HSEP>Brig.  <HI REND="italics">Dr. Hitchcock</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Mar. 16(45,50)<LB>13<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Leverett</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Mar. 26<HSEP>(54,62)</HI>
079.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>21<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Perfect</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans, Mar. 26 (27?)<HSEP>(44,54)<LB>22<HSEP>British mail steamer <HI REND="italics">Teviot</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>Carthagena<HSEP>30<LB>23<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Col. Stanton</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New Orleans, Apr. 14<HSEP>(69,70)<LB>24<HSEP>Bark <HI REND="italics">Charles Devens</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Apr. 6<HSEP>(53,64)<LB>26<HSEP>Steamer <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Apr. 17<HSEP>144<LB>28<HSEP>Brig <HI REND="italics">Azalia</HI>
079.sgm:<HSEP>New York, Apr. 10<HSEP>(30,35)<LB>29<HSEP>Bark <HI REND="italics">Florida<HSEP>New Orleans<HSEP>70</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P>The foregoing list is corrected and expanded from two principal lists compiled in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, one covering the period to March 20, in the issue of April 10; the other covering the period March 30-April 30, in the issue of May 13.  The <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of April 19 has a supposedly comprehensive list of sailings from all U. S. ports, including vessels for Chagres, but this does not in all respects correlate with the record of arrivals at Chagres.  Dates of departure from the various ports come initially from the list of April 19, but as far as possible, they have been checked against the day-to-day record of sailings in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:.  Often the two papers disagree as to the number of passengers, and further discrepancies appear in the record of arrivals at Chagres and in the various letters written from the Isthmus, the reports brought by returning steamers, and even the narratives of Forty-niners who were passengers on the vessels in question.  When the number of passengers is variously stated in parentheses, the confusion of the available information is displayed.  It does not necessarily follow, however, that when the number of passengers is flatly stated, its accuracy may be accepted; this may prove nothing more than that only a single source of information was available.  There may also be a degree of variation in the criteria for establishing the date of arrival for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:various vessels; in some instances the date may mean arrival off the port; in others, arrival in the inner harbor, or date of landing passengers.  In short, the whole record is highly tentative, and subject to further correction and extension, but worthy of being printed in its present state, because no such record heretofore has been available to students of the Gold Rush and the Isthmus route.</p><P>Not included in the tabulation are a few vessels which presumably escaped the contemporary accounting, some of which may have arrived during the period March 21-29, not covered by the information from Chagres.  These would include the Bark <HI REND="italics">Bogota</HI>
079.sgm: with 40 or 49 passengers, which sailed from New York February 22; the Brig <HI REND="italics">Alvaris</HI>
079.sgm: (or <HI REND="italics">Albrasia</HI>
079.sgm: ) with 33 passengers, which sailed from New York the same day; and the Bark <HI REND="italics">Thames</HI>
079.sgm: with 54 passengers, which sailed from Boston February 23 (or March 1).  The steamer <HI REND="italics">Galveston</HI>
079.sgm:, which sailed from New Orleans February 20 with 158 passengers, and which for a time was unreported and supposed to have been lost at sea, put into Belize, British Honduras, for repairs, as reported in the <HI REND="italics">Weekly Tribune</HI>
079.sgm: of April 21, which also said that the British schooner <HI REND="italics">Sarah Ann</HI>
079.sgm: took some of her passengers on to Chagres.  No doubt others were carried by the British vessels <HI REND="italics">Emily</HI>
079.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Thetis</HI>
079.sgm:.  The steamer <HI REND="italics">Maria Burt</HI>
079.sgm: left New Orleans February 28, but as we learn from Samuel McNeil's narrative, she sprang a leak and had to return to port.  The date of her second departure, which brought her to Chagres April 1, as recorded in the tabulation, I have not ascertained.</p><P>In addition to the three vessels recorded in the tabulation as having been wrecked at Chagres, a Chagres letter of January 24, 1849, in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: of February 15 discusses the loss of the brig <HI REND="italics">Hewannee</HI>
079.sgm:, the brig <HI REND="italics">Anne and Eliza</HI>
079.sgm:, and the brig <HI REND="italics">Othello</HI>
079.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
079.sgm:<P>Abbey, James, <HI REND="italics">California.  A Trip Across the Plains</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 26</p><P>Abrams, William Penn, diary cited, 198</p><P>Acapulco, 22, 35</p><P>Acorns, 168</p><P>Adams: John Quincy, 98; Prof., 33</p><P>Adobe-making, 125</p><P>Agassiz, Louis, 34</p><P>Agriculture, 104, 118, 124, 126, 137-8, 140-1, 154, 161-2, 184, 197, 204-5</p><P><HI REND="italics">Alabama</HI>
079.sgm:, 20, 23, 186, 189</p><P>Albacores, 116</p><P>Albany, N. Y., 21</p><P><HI REND="italics">Albrasia</HI>
079.sgm: ( <HI REND="italics">Alvaris</HI>
079.sgm:?), 192</p><P>Alcaldes, 94, 147, 195</p><P>Alligators, 92-3, 107</p><P><HI REND="italics">Alida</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P><HI REND="italics">Alvaris</HI>
079.sgm: ( <HI REND="italics">Albrasia</HI>
079.sgm:?), 192</p><P>American: Antiquarian Society, 20; Camp, 201; Colonization Society, 152 River, 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 138-40, 152, 164, 167, 205, 208-9</p><P>Amusements, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Recreation</p><P><HI REND="italics">Angelita</HI>
079.sgm:, 61</p><P><HI REND="italics">Anne and Eliza</HI>
079.sgm:, 192</p><P>Anti-masonry, 34</p><P><HI REND="italics">Apollo</HI>
079.sgm:, 76</p><P>Arkansas emigrant, 129, 156</p><P>"Arrivals of Vessels and Passengers at Chagres," 28, 45, 66, 188-93</p><P>Art of the Gold Rush, 19, 22, 47, 75-7, 194, 201</p><P>Aspinwall, William Henry, 42, 196</p><P>Australian 49ers, 16</p><P>Autenrieth, E. L.  <HI REND="italics">Topographical Map of the Isthmus of Panama</HI>
079.sgm:, 17, 194, 197</p><P><HI REND="italics">Azalia</HI>
079.sgm:, 191</p><P>Bacon, R. H., 84</p><P>Baggage, 39, 43, 49-56, 84, 89, 91, 95, 126, 146, 178, 180-1</p><P>Bahama Islands, 48</p><P>Balboa, Vasco Nun&tilde;ez de, 105, 172, 193</p><P>Baldwin, J. L., 196</p><P>Baltimore, 24-5, 41, 44, 188-9</p><P>Bancroft; H. H., 45, 206; Library, 10, 15, 25, 33, 48, 77, 198, 200, 204, 206, 209</p><P>Baptist ministry, 160</p><P>Barry, T. A., &amp; B. A. Patten, <HI REND="italics">Men and Memories of San Francisco in the 'Spring of</HI>
079.sgm: '50,' 68, 76</p><P>Bartleson party of 1841, 204</p><P>Bartlett: Edwin, 42; Washington, 14</p><P>Bastidas, Rodrigo de, 193</p><P><HI REND="italics">Bathurst</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Bay mahogany, 91-2</p><P>Beached ships, 75-6</p><P>Beals Bar, 166, 209</p><P>Bear River, California, 18, 23, 208</p><P>Bears, 171</p><P>Beinecke, Frederick W., 22</p><P><HI REND="italics">Belfast</HI>
079.sgm:, 58, 61</p><P>Belize, 192</p><P>Bells, 185-6</p><P>Benicia, 141, 206</p><P>Berthold, Victor M., cited, 57</p><P>Bidwell, John, cited, 204</p><P>Bithell, James, 11</p><P>Black vomito, 65</p><P>Blair, James, 201</p><P>Boarding houses; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Taverns</p><P>Boardman, E. S. (or E. W.), 84, 140</p><P>Boars, wild, 107-8</p><P><HI REND="italics">Bogota</HI>
079.sgm:, 192</p><P>Bolinas Bay, 36</p><P>Boli&acute;var, Simon, 100, 196-7</p><P>Boston, 37, 41, 189-90, 192, 200</p><P>Boundary Commission, 65, 186</p><P>Boyce, Sarah Jewett, 36</p><P>Bradford, Mr., 199</p><P>Bradley; Laura, 33; Lyman, 31, 33, 81, 84, 127, 131-2, 134, 144; "Recollections of San Francisco," 159-63</p><P>Brant, 161</p><P>Brazilian 49ers, 45</p><P>Brazos, 22, 24, 44</p><P>Bridgeport, Conn., 48</p><P>Brindsmaid's machine, 139</p><P>Brisbane, Albert, 200</p><P>British: mining in South America, 103; vessels, 39, 43, 55, 59, 61, 63, 179, 182, 188-91; West Indies, 42</p><P>"Brooks, J. Tyrwhitt" (Henry Vizetelly), cited, 11-2, 24</p><P>Brunet, Betsey, 33</p><P>Bryant, Edwin, <HI REND="italics">What I Saw in California</HI>
079.sgm:, 12, 204</p><P>Buccaneers, 172, 194</p><P>Buckly, George H., 55</p><P>Buffalo, N.Y.: 10, 28, 32, 178, 207; emigrants from, 150, 187, 207; <HI REND="italics">Daily Courier</HI>
079.sgm:, 13, 24, 28, 207; Medical College, 29; Public Library, 11</p><P>Buffum, E. Gould, <HI REND="italics">Six Months in the Gold Mines</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 18-9, 201, 204; letters by, 18</p><P>Bungo, Isthmus canoe, 53, 59, 65, 69</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>Burials, 72, 90, 93, 111, 193, 198</p><P>Burr &amp; Smith, 67</p><P>Buzzards, 108</p><P><HI REND="italics">California</HI>
079.sgm:, 14, 21-2, 42, 44-5, 56-8, 61, 179</p><P>California: description of, 20, 119-75, 200-9; early history, 173-5; organization of State government, 141; prospects, 21-2, 154-5, 174; resources, 118-9</p><P>California: Academy of Sciences, 33, 36; Historical Society, 10; <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
079.sgm:, cited, 12, 15, 57, 200; News Clippings, 1848-1849, cited, 48; State Library, 204</p><P><HI REND="italics">California Illustrated; see</HI>
079.sgm: Letts</p><P>Californians: character of, 134; native 123, 130-3, 142, 152, 171, 173-4</p><P>Callao, 22, 43, 57, 63, 181</p><P>Camp, Charles L., cited, 16</p><P>Camp Stanislaus, 203</p><P>Canal Zone Library, 196</p><P>Canandaigua, N. Y. 31</p><P>Canoes, 39, 42, 49-56, 65, 89, 91, 93, 146, 179-80</p><P>Cape: Hatteras, 48; Hayti, 87; Horn, travel via, 12, 38, 43-5, 84</p><P>Carey, Charles P., 84, 139, 167</p><P>Caribbean Sea, 87</p><P>Carlin: Hyde, 30; Mary McCollum, 30</p><P>Carman, Nelson, 84, 140</p><P><HI REND="italics">Caroline E. Platt</HI>
079.sgm:, 188</p><P>Carpenter: Lucy, 33; Philip, 34-5</p><P>Carquinez, Straits of, 206</p><P>Carthagena, 191</p><P>Case, William, 84, 111</p><P>Cathedral at Panama, 98, 101, 106, 183,-4, 197</p><P>Cats, 186</p><P>Cattle, 91, 93-4, 108, 130-2, 151, 173</p><P>Caughey, John W., cited, 18</p><P>Caycos Island, 47</p><P>Cayuca, type of Isthmus canoe, 53</p><P>Cayuse War, 206</p><P>Cerro Lancon [Ancon], 197</p><P>Chagres, 17-8, 20-1, 23-4, 39-41, 43-5, 47, 49, 54-6, 60, 64, 66, 85, 90-1, 95, 146, 158, 172, 181, 186, 193-6, 206; description, 88; fever, 65; River, 13, 39, 49-50, 59, 91-?], 178-81, 194-5; table of arrivals, 188-93; wrecks at, 188</p><P>Charity in California, 160-1</p><P><HI REND="italics">Charles Devens</HI>
079.sgm:, 191</p><P>Charleston, S. C., 40, 190</p><P>Chauncey, Henry, 42, 196</p><P>Chile, 34, 103, 161</p><P>Chilean: brickmaking, 125; 49ers, 43, 45, 123-4, 152, 208</p><P>Chimborazo, 72</p><P>Chinese 49ers, 123, 208</p><P>Chipmunks, 166</p><P>Cholera, 65</p><P>Cincinnati, 20, 23</p><P><HI REND="italics">Circassian</HI>
079.sgm:, 69</p><P>Civil War, 31, 35</p><P>Clams, 168</p><P>Clarks Point, 75</p><P>Cleland, R. G., cited, 22-3</p><P>Cleveland: Freeman, 199; Henry, 67-72, 74, 111-3, 126-7, 199</p><P>Climate, 86-7, 95-6, 104, 143-4, 149, 158, 165-6, 170, 207</p><P><HI REND="italics">Clyde</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Clyde, N. Y., 187</p><P>Coal, 144, 154</p><P>Coaling of steamships, 40, 57-8, 61, 63-4, 187</p><P>Cockfighting, 184-6</p><P>Coffee, 132</p><P><HI REND="italics">Collooney</HI>
079.sgm:, 16, 64</p><P>Coloma (Sutter's Mill), 20, 205</p><P>Colombia: ( <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Nueva Granada)</p><P>Colo&acute;n, 193</p><P><HI REND="italics">Colonel Stanton</HI>
079.sgm:, 191</p><P>Colton, Walter, <HI REND="italics">Deck and Port</HI>
079.sgm:, letters by, 19; <HI REND="italics">The Sea and the Sailor</HI>
079.sgm:, 19; <HI REND="italics">Years in California</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 19</p><P>Columbus, Christopher, 105, 193</p><P>Committees, 49-56, 74, 178-9</p><P>Congress of American Nations, 98, 196</p><P>Connecticut, 13; 49ers, 12, 48</p><P><HI REND="italics">Constellation</HI>
079.sgm:, 63-4</p><P>Constitution, California, 17, 141, 206</p><P>Consul at Panama:  <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Nelson, William</p><P>Cook: Charles, 32-3; Elliott W., 31-3, 81, 84, 138, 144, 209; "Recollections of the Northern Mines," 164-71; George, 32-3; Malvina, 32-3</p><P>Coolidge, J., cited, 45</p><P><HI REND="italics">Copiapo</HI>
079.sgm:, 69</p><P>Corpus Christi, 44</p><P><HI REND="italics">Corsair</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Cortez, Hernando, 105</p><P>Cost of travel, 38-40, 43, 51-6, 89, 111, 144 146, 181; <HI REND="italics">see also</HI>
079.sgm: Prices</p><P>Costume, 46, 157; of Indians, 147, 168-9; of Panamanians, 50-1, 88</p><P>Cosumnes River, 167-9</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>Cougars, 97</p><P>Coulter, Edith M., cited, 17</p><P>Coyotes, 131, 166</p><P><HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
079.sgm: (schooner), 190; (steamship), 13, 28, 41, 43, 45-52, 58, 60, 66, 85-9, 176-80, 188-91, 193, 196, 199, 207</p><P>Crime, 147, 161</p><P>Cross, Osborne, <HI REND="italics">Report</HI>
079.sgm: on march of Mounted Riflemen, cited, 27</p><P>Cruces, 25, 50, 53, 103, 107, 178, 195</p><P>Cuba, 87, 106, 176</p><P>Curacao, 190</p><P>Curlews, 97, 161</p><P>Cushing, John., reminiscences, 66, 68, 73-4, 199</p><P>Darie&acute;n, 193</p><P>Deaths, 33, 45, 58, 72, 111, 148, 186-7, 195 198, 209</p><P>Deer, 97, 107, 161, 166</p><P>Derring, C. T., 67</p><P>Delavan, James, <HI REND="italics">Notes on California and the Placers</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 20-22, 25, 54, 58, 63, 197</p><P>Derby, George Horatio, 203</p><P>De Soto, Hernando de, 105</p><P>Detroit, 20</p><P>Dezeng (or De Zeug), William, 186, 209</p><P>Disease, 149-50, 186, 193, 207, 209; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Health</p><P>Dogs, 108, 186</p><P>Doty, Captain, 67</p><P><HI REND="italics">Dr. Hitchcock</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P>Drake, Francis, 194</p><P>Dress; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Costume</p><P>Dry: Creek, 167; Diggings, 170</p><P>Ducks, 161</p><P>Dunbar: Edward E., <HI REND="italics">The Romance of the Age</HI>
079.sgm:, 57; Seymour, <HI REND="italics">History of Travel in America</HI>
079.sgm:, 26</p><P>Durango, 22</p><P>Dutch vessels, 190</p><P>Earthquakes, 183</p><P><HI REND="italics">Edwin</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Elections, 141, 206</p><P>Elephant, seeing the, 85-6, 95</p><P><HI REND="italics">Elizabeth</HI>
079.sgm:, 21</p><P>Elk, 161, 166</p><P><HI REND="italics">Emily</HI>
079.sgm:, 190, 192</p><P><HI REND="italics">Empire City</HI>
079.sgm:, 25, 41</p><P>Employment for women, 148</p><P>Encisco, Martin Ferna&acute;ndez de, 193</p><P>England, sailings from, 190</p><P>English: 49ers, 16, 45, 123; merchants at Panama, 101</p><P>Episcopalian ministry, 11, 115, 160, 200</p><P><HI REND="italics">Equator</HI>
079.sgm:, 63, 187</p><P>Equator, 64, 71-2, 199</p><P>Erie Canal, 32, 34, 86, 95, 127</p><P><HI REND="italics">Esthers</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P><HI REND="italics">Eudora</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Fairbanks, Mr. &amp; Mrs., 95</p><P>Fairfield, N. Y., 31; Medical College, 29</p><P>Fairhaven, 69</p><P><HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
079.sgm:, 20-1, 23, 26, 40-3, 49-51, 54, 57-8, 89, 146, 178, 188-9, 194, 206</p><P>Fandangos, 110, 197-8</p><P>Farnham: Eliza W., 148, 206-7; <HI REND="italics">California Indoors and Out</HI>
079.sgm:, 206; Thomas J., 206</p><P>Feather River, 23, 207-8</p><P><HI REND="italics">Felix</HI>
079.sgm:,64</p><P>Fevers, 134, 149, 207; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Health Fictional Gold Rush narratives, 11-2</p><P>Fights, 110, 197-8</p><P>Finback whales, 105</p><P><HI REND="italics">First Steamship Pioneers</HI>
079.sgm:, cited, 57</p><P>Fish, 87, 94, 104, 116, 161, -2, 167-8, 184</p><P>Flying fish, 87, 116</p><P>Floods, 137-8, 141, 205-6</p><P><HI REND="italics">Florida</HI>
079.sgm:, 66, 188, 191</p><P>Folsom, Joseph L., cited, 124, 200</p><P>Food: cost of, 126; on <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:, 114, 199</p><P>Forbes, Robert Bennett, 67</p><P>Foreigners in California, 152, 174, 203, 208</p><P>Fort Niagra, N. Y., 34</p><P><HI REND="italics">Forth</HI>
079.sgm:, 61</p><P>Fossil, 34-5</p><P>Fourierism, 126, 200</p><P>Fox: Charles J., 32-3, 84, 140, 144; "California Experience." 99-102; Charlott, 33; Harriet, 33</p><P>Foxes, 166</p><P>Foy, R. D., 207</p><P>Foyle, Mrs., 160</p><P>Franciscans, 173</p><P>Fraternal organizations, 163</p><P>Frederiksted, Virgin Islands, 200</p><P>Freemasonry, 34, 37, 163</p><P>Fre&acute;mont, John Charles, 11, 169</p><P>French: Camp, 201; 49ers, 45, 123; Slough, 201</p><P>G., R.M., letter by, 24,68, 75</p><P>Galapagos Islands, 72, 113, 116, 162, 199</p><P><HI REND="italics">Galena</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P><HI REND="italics">Galveston</HI>
079.sgm:, 192</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>Gambling, 126, 135-6, 159-60, 176-7</p><P>Garella, Napoleon, 17</p><P>Gardner, Sylvester, 84, 140</p><P>Geese, 161</p><P>Geneva, N. Y., 95,209; Medical College, 29,31</p><P>Genesee Valley, N. Y., 141</p><P><HI REND="italics">Georgia</HI>
079.sgm:, 40</p><P>German 49ers, 45</p><P>Giffen, Guy J., <HI REND="italics">California Expedition.  Stevenson's Regiment of First New York Volunteers</HI>
079.sgm:, 203</p><P><HI REND="italics">Gleason's Pictorial Drawing-Room Companion</HI>
079.sgm:, 47, 76-7</p><P><HI REND="italics">Globe</HI>
079.sgm:, 22</p><P>Gold: described, 122; discovery, 37-45, 81-2, 124, 148, 174; distribution of in California, 169; mania, 124; rush, 15, 37-46; literature, 9-28; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Mining</p><P>Golden Gate, 73-4, 119-20</p><P>Gorgona, 50-6, 92-5, 146, 178, 181, 195-6</p><P>Government: in California, 123, 147, 161; policy on gold districts, 151</p><P>Grant, Gilbert A., 55</p><P>Great Basin, 153</p><P>Green Springs, 131, 203</p><P>Greenwood, Robert, 77</p><P>Gregory, Joseph W., <HI REND="italics">Guide for California Travellers; via the Isthmus of Panama</HI>
079.sgm:, 16-7</p><P>Gregory's Express, 17</p><P>Griswold, N. L. &amp; G., 67</p><P>Grizzly bears, 171</p><P>Gropars, 104</p><P>Grosvenor, Seth C., 207</p><P>Guadalajara, Mexico, 207</p><P>Guayaquil, 43</p><P>Gudde, Erwin G., cited, 209</p><P><HI REND="italics">Guilford</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Gulf Stream, 86</p><P>Gunn, Lewis C., cited, 202</p><P>Hall, John Linville, printer of <HI REND="italics">Journal of the Hartford Union Mining and Trading Company...On board the Henry Lee</HI>
079.sgm:, 12-3</p><P>Halstead, M. B., 196</p><P>Hamilton: J. M., 84; S. M., 140; College, N. Y., 36</p><P>Hammond, R. P., 201</p><P>Harbormaster's report on arrivals at San Francisco, 74</p><P>Hardships of passage, 95-6; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Mining, hardships of</p><P>Hares, 97, 166</p><P><HI REND="italics">Harriet Bartlett</HI>
079.sgm:, 188</p><P><HI REND="italics">Harriet Neal</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P>Harrington, Chauncey, 84, 110-1, 186, 198</p><P>Hart, R. D., cited, 54</p><P>Hartford Union Mining and Trading Co., 12</p><P>Harts Bar, 16</p><P>Havana, 21, 40, 146, 206</p><P>Hawaii:  <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Sandwich Islands</p><P>Hawley, David N., cited, 48</p><P>Head, William, 84, 167</p><P>Health, 21, 26, 56, 58, 60, 63, 70, 99, 110, 134, 138-40, 144-50, 158, 160, 177-9, 182-3, 186, 195, 198, 206-7</p><P>Hecox, W. H., 46, 54, 65, 198, 207; letters by, 28, 176-87</p><P><HI REND="italics">Henrico</HI>
079.sgm:, 188, 190</p><P>Henry E. Huntington Library, 205</p><P><HI REND="italics">Henry Lee</HI>
079.sgm:, 12-3</p><P><HI REND="italics">Hermann</HI>
079.sgm:, 46</p><P><HI REND="italics">Hewannee</HI>
079.sgm:, 192</p><P>Hittell, John S. cited, 75-6</p><P>Hogs, wild, 97, 107-8</p><P>Holland Purchase, N. Y., 95</p><P>Holy Trinity Episcopal Church, 200</p><P>Honduras, 190, 192</p><P>Horse Shoe Bar, 23</p><P>Hospitals, 25, 161</p><P>Hotels, 76, 84, 94, 140, 182-3, 194-5, 205 <HI REND="italics">see also</HI>
079.sgm: Taverns</p><P>Hotchkiss, Leonard S., letter cited, 47-51</p><P>House, William C., 33</p><P><HI REND="italics">Howard</HI>
079.sgm:, 69</p><P>Howard, George H., 180</p><P>Howes, Wright, 10, 12</p><P>Howland, Gardiner Greene, 41</p><P>Howland &amp; Aspinwall:  <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Pacific Mail Steamship Co.</p><P>Hudson, Mr., 187</p><P>Hughes, George W., 196</p><P>Hulbert, E. H., 207</p><P><HI REND="italics">Humboldt</HI>
079.sgm:, 61-2, 64, 68-9</p><P>Hunting, 92, 107-9, 166-78 171, 173</p><P>Hyde, Dr., 29, 31</p><P>Hyenas, 97, 166</p><P>Iguanas, 92</p><P>Illness; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Health</p><P><HI REND="italics">Illustrated History of Southern California</HI>
079.sgm:, cited, 205</p><P>Inagua, Island, 47-8, 87, 193</p><P>Indiana 49ers, 26</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>Indians of California, 147-8, 152-3, 167-8, 173, 203, 206</p><P>Indignation meetings, 49, 54-6, 63, 71</p><P><HI REND="italics">Ione</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Irish 49ers, 45</p><P>Isham, G. E., <HI REND="italics">Guide to California and the Mines</HI>
079.sgm:, 20</p><P>Islands of Panama, 100, 103, 197</p><P><HI REND="italics">Isthmus</HI>
079.sgm:, 41, 188-9</p><P>Isthmus of Panama: early history, 172, 193, 195; travel via, 13, 16-18, 20-25, 28, 30, 34-5, 38-40, 42, 44-5, 49, 57, 65, 68, 81, 85-120, 144, 146, 157-8, 172, 176-92, 195-6</p><P>Italian 49ers, 45</p><P>J. Howard &amp; Son, 41</p><P>Jackson: Alden, 201; William A., <HI REND="italics">Map of the Mining District of California</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 201, 205, 209</p><P>Jacksonville, Calif., 129, 132, 201</p><P>Jaguars, 97</p><P>Jamaica, 87, 190</p><P>Jesuits, 173</p><P>Jesup, Thomas S., 200</p><P>Jewet: Elizabeth Arnold, 34; Ezekiel, 33-7, 84, 110, 127, 131, 133-4, 156, 186, 206; John Joseph, 36; Louis, 36; Scientific Society, 34</p><P><HI REND="italics">Joanna Analuffa</HI>
079.sgm:, 23</p><P>John, D., 180</p><P><HI REND="italics">John Benson</HI>
079.sgm:, 42, 188</p><P><HI REND="italics">John G. Coster</HI>
079.sgm:, 84, 193</p><P><HI REND="italics">John Ritson</HI>
079.sgm:, 24-5, 61</p><P>Johnson, Theodore T., <HI REND="italics">Sights in the Gold Region</HI>
079.sgm: (also pub. as <HI REND="italics">California and Oregon</HI>
079.sgm: ), 13-4, 20, 25, 46, 48, 52-4, 56, 58-60, 193-9, 201, 206, 209</p><P>Joint stock company, 126</p><P><HI REND="italics">Josephine</HI>
079.sgm:, 69</p><P>Juba; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Yuba</p><P>Judiciary, 147</p><P>Kanakas, 114, 123</p><P>Kelly, William, <HI REND="italics">An Excursion to California</HI>
079.sgm:, 75</p><P>Kemble, John Haskell, cited, 40</p><P>Kentucky 49ers, 130</p><P>Key West, 190</p><P>Keystone, Calif., 203</p><P>King, Thomas Butler, report, pub. as <HI REND="italics">Californias The Wonder of the Age</HI>
079.sgm:, 5, 23, 25-6, 151, 174, 205, 207-8</p><P>Kingfish, 104</p><P>Kip, Leonard, <HI REND="italics">California Sketches</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 21</p><P>Lake Superior, 34</p><P>Lancaster, O., 22</p><P>Land grants, 204</p><P>Lasso, 130, 171, 173</p><P>Lavaca, 44</p><P>Law of mines, 147</p><P>Lawyers, 156</p><P>Leidesdorff, William Alexander, 138, 205</p><P>Leon, Ponce de, 172</p><P>Letters, 9-19, 18-9, 23-4, 27-8, 47-52, 54, 60-6, 68, 196, 198, 207, 209</p><P>Letts, John M., <HI REND="italics">California Illustrated</HI>
079.sgm:, 18, 25, 54, 58-9, 66, 69-70, 72-4, 194, 197</p><P><HI REND="italics">Leverett</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P>Lewis, Clarence O., 28-9, 31, 33</p><P>Lewiston, N.Y., 9, 31-2, 95, 139</p><P>Library of Congress, 10</p><P>Licenses for mining, 208</p><P>Liezendorf, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Leidesdorff</p><P>Lima, 181</p><P>Liquor, 100, 129, 149-50, 177, 184, 186</p><P>Literature of the Gold Rush, 9-28</p><P>Little Inagua Island, 47-8, 87, 193</p><P>Lockport, N.Y., 10-1, 29, 32, 34, 43, 77, 81, 121, 186, 196, 198, 205; census of 1850, 32-3; Company, 33, 53, 82-5, 111, 126-7, 136, 139-40, 144, 186; overland emigrants, 140; <HI REND="italics">Daily Journal</HI>
079.sgm:, 31; <HI REND="italics">Niagara Cataract</HI>
079.sgm:, 32, 99; <HI REND="italics">Niagara Democrat</HI>
079.sgm:, 32</p><P>Lone Tree, 130, 202</p><P>Lovejoy's Hotel, N.Y., 84</p><P>Lovering, William, 178, 180, 207</p><P><HI REND="italics">Lowder</HI>
079.sgm:, 188</p><P>Lower California, 19</p><P>Lyman, George D., cited, 15</p><P>Lyons, Mich., 20</p><P>Macallemy; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Mokelumne</p><P><HI REND="italics">Macon</HI>
079.sgm:, 188</p><P>McCollum: Abram, 31; William. Attitude toward California, 77; <HI REND="italics">California As I Saw It</HI>
079.sgm:, commentary on, 27; references to, 9-11, 13, 15, 18, 23, 25, 41, 43, 45, 51, 53-4, 56, 58, 65, 77, 206; biography of, 28-31; in census of 1850, 33; experiences on Isthmus, 13, 30-1, 45, 56; family of, 30-1; on gold tax, 207-8; medical background of, 29-31; member of Lockport Company, 84; motives in going to California, 82; motives in publishing his book, 10, 81; surgeon for Panama Railroad, 196</p><P>McDougall, G., 201</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>McIlvaine, William, <HI REND="italics">Sketches of Scenery and Notes of Personal Adventure, in California and Mexico</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 22, 201-2, 207</p><P><HI REND="italics">McKim</HI>
079.sgm:, 37</p><P>McNeil, Samuel, <HI REND="italics">McNeil's Travels in 1849</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 22, 192</p><P><HI REND="italics">Magazine of History</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 26</p><P><HI REND="italics">Magnolia</HI>
079.sgm:, 195</p><P>Mail, 40-2, 162, 182,; steamers, 40, 195</p><P><HI REND="italics">Major Eastland</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P>Man o' war birds, 104</p><P>Mandeville J. H., 196</p><P>Mandingo Bay, 196</p><P>Manifest Destiny, 107, 174, 204</p><P>Manning, artist, 77</p><P>Maps, 15, 17, 197, 201-3, 209</p><P>Maracaibo, 172</p><P><HI REND="italics">Maria Burt</HI>
079.sgm:, 22, 190, 192</p><P>Marietta 18, 49-50, 54, 178-9, 189, 193</p><P><HI REND="italics">Marion</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Marston, Anna Lee, cited, 202</p><P>Martin, Mrs., daughter of McCollum, 31</p><P><HI REND="italics">Mary Filkins</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P><HI REND="italics">Mary Pennel</HI>
079.sgm:, 188</p><P>Marryat, Samuel Francis, <HI REND="italics">Mountains and Molehills</HI>
079.sgm:, 75-6</p><P>Maryland 49ers, 24-5, 113-4</p><P>Mason, R. B., 11-2</p><P>Massachusetts 49ers, 176, 180</p><P>Matthews, F. C., cited, 66-8, 74</p><P>May, John, 196</p><P>Mazatlan, 2, 24, 35, 45</p><P><HI REND="italics">Mazeppa</HI>
079.sgm:, 16</p><P>Medical allusions, 51, 56, 84, 91, 122-38 127</p><P>Medicine, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: physicians, Health</p><P><HI REND="italics">Medway</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P>Memorial to the <HI REND="italics">Niantic</HI>
079.sgm:, 77</p><P>Merced River, 203</p><P>Mexican: adobemaking, 125; 49ers, 45, 123, 208; rule in California, 142-3, 173-5; War, 38, 201</p><P>Mexico, 196; travel across, 16, 22-4, 207</p><P>Michigan 49ers, 20</p><P>Miller, A. S., 202</p><P>Miller's Hotel, Gorgona, 195</p><P>Millerstown, Pa., 29</p><P>Miner, Charles, 198</p><P>Mines, Flavel Scott, 115, 160, 200</p><P>Mining, 20-4, 139, 164-5; description of, 20; districts, 147, 169-70; equipment for, 73, 85, 132, 138, 154, 157, 164-5, 170; hardships of, 14, 16, 19, 23-4, 123, 132-3, 139, 156-7, 166, 170-1, 198, 201; prospecting, 167-8; reports on, 13, 124-5; returns from, 132-3, 139, 165-6, 174, 205, 209; technology of, 21</p><P>Mission Indians, 153, 169, 173</p><P>Missions, California, 173-4</p><P>Missouri 49ers, 27</p><P>Mobile, 22, 24</p><P>Moccasins, 153</p><P>Moerehout, Jacques Antoine, cited, 15</p><P>Mohawk River, 140</p><P>Mokelumne (Macellemy, Mukelumne) Diggins, 21, 23-4</p><P>Monkeys, 92-3, 107</p><P>Monterey, Calif., 19, 24, 35, 206</p><P>Monterrey, Mexico, 22</p><P>Montezuma marshes, 127</p><P>Moore, T., 205</p><P>Morals, 126, 135-6, 148, 160</p><P>Morgan: Dale L., "Introduction," 9-78; Notes," 193-209; cited, 26, Henry, 172, 194, 197; William, 34, 37</p><P>Mormon: Battalion, 205; Island, 139, 205; Slough, 201</p><P>Mosquitoes, 127-8, 138</p><P>Mountain Lake (Tahoe), 169</p><P>Mounted Riflemen, Regiment of, 27</p><P>Mozambique, 88</p><P>Mukelumne; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Mokelumne</p><P>Mule transport, 39, 50, 94-6, 101, 129, 132-3, 140, 146, 167, 178, 181</p><P>Murders, 168</p><P>National Archives, 32, 65</p><P>Native Sons of the Golden West, 77</p><P>Naylor, G. W., 77</p><P>Nayson, D. W., 47</p><P>Negroes, 88, 94, 102, 150-1, 184, 195</p><P>Nelson, William, 55, 65-6, 111, 198</p><P>New Bedford, 48, 63, 195</p><P>New Albany, Ind., 26</p><P><HI REND="italics">New Granada</HI>
079.sgm:, 182</p><P>New Haven, Conn., 48</p><P>New Helvetia; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Sutter's Fort</p><P>New Holland 49ers, 208</p><P><HI REND="italics">New Orleans</HI>
079.sgm:, 144, 206</p><P>New Orleans, 20, 22-3, 37, 40-1, 65, 146, 186, 188-92, 206; <HI REND="italics">Crescent,</HI>
079.sgm: 69;<HI REND="italics">Delta</HI>
079.sgm:, 163</p><P>New Trinity Church, 200</p><P>New York City: arrivals at, 21, 24-5, 146, 206; sailings from, 12-3, 18, 23, 26, 28, 39-40, 42-3, 46, 57, 84-6, 176, 178, 188-93, 200, 207; <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm:, 11, 18, 24, 37-8, 40-2, 44-7, 51-2, 60-3, 66, 68-9, 163, 191, 6, 200; Public Library, 10; <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
079.sgm:, 17-8, 20, 23, 60-1, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:64, 69, 163, 191-2, 196-8, 209</p><P>New York State: 29, 33, 87, 95; 49ers, 20-1, 27-8, 31-7, 176-87, 198, 205, 209; Regiment of Volunteers, 11, 14, 18, 203; State Museum, 35</p><P>New York of the Pacific, 127, 200-1</p><P>Newburyport, 41</p><P>Newcomb, Dr. &amp; Mrs., 36</p><P>Niagara: County, 29, 32, 205; Falls, 32, 153</p><P>Niantic, 18, 66-77, 111-8, 126-7, 160, 198-9, 205; Building, 76-7; Hotel, 76</p><P>Nichols, W. W., 84, 144</p><P>Norfolk, 190</p><P><HI REND="italics">Norman</HI>
079.sgm:, 69</p><P><HI REND="italics">Norris:</HI>
079.sgm: Samuel, 201; Thomas W., 15-200; William, 196</p><P>Northern Mines, 13, 25, 136-40, 164-71, 201</p><P><HI REND="italics">Northerner</HI>
079.sgm:, 187, 189</p><P>Nueva Flandria, 204</p><P>Nueva Granada (Colombia), 40, 88, 102, 183, 193, 195-6</p><P>Oaks, live, 130</p><P><HI REND="italics">Odd Fellows</HI>
079.sgm:, 164</p><P>Odd Fellows, 163</p><P><HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
079.sgm:, 21, 40-1, 146, 206</p><P>Ohio 49ers, 22</p><P><HI REND="italics">Oregon</HI>
079.sgm:, 13, 20, 24-5, 42, 57-8, 62-4, 68, 161, 181, 195, 198</p><P>Oregon: 49ers, 25, 147-8, 206; Mail to, 40, 42, 195; Travel to, 27</p><P><HI REND="italics">Orion</HI>
079.sgm:, 64</p><P><HI REND="italics">Orus</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P>, 25, 39, 41, 49-50, 54, 178-9, 188</p><P><HI REND="italics">Othello</HI>
079.sgm:, 192</p><P>Otis, F. N., cited, 196</p><P>Overland emigrants, 140, 203-4, 206-8; from Lockport, 140; narrative of, 15, 20, 26; route, 26, 182</p><P>Pacific Mail Steamship Co., 39, 41-2, 60, 64</p><P>Page, Peter, 84, 111</p><P>Palanquillo (Palanqua), 91-2, 194</p><P>Paleontology, 34-7</p><P><HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
079.sgm:, 23, 26, 42, 58  Panama: 13, 17-8, 0-5, 33, 35-6, 39, 41-2, 50, 55-8, 60-1, 65-6, 69, 144, 146, 179-81, 193, 195, 197-9, 206-7; Canal, 17; descriptions of, 32, 99-112, 181-2; fever, 65; history, 172-3; McCollum and Hecox at, 98-113, 181-8; Old Panama, 99, 105-8, 197; Republic, 193; Star, 54-6, 197  <HI REND="italics">Paoli</HI>
079.sgm:, 20</p><P>Parker, W. C., 201</p><P>Parras, 22</p><P>Parrots, 93, 97</p><P>Patten, B. A; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Barry</p><P>Payta, 66, 111</p><P>Pelicans, 97, 104</p><P>Pennsylvania 49ers, 16, 201</p><P><HI REND="italics">Perfect</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Peru, 103, 196; 49ers, 43, 45, 57, 123, 191, 208</p><P>Philadelphia, 60-1</p><P>Philadelphia, 14, 41; 49ers, 16, 201; <HI REND="italics">North American</HI>
079.sgm:, 19; sailings from, 189</p><P>Physicians, 14, 24-5, 27, 134, 136-7, 140, 149, 156, 158,196, 207, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Health</p><P>Pigeons, 97</p><P>Pilot fish, 116</p><P>Pittsburgh, Calif., 200-1</p><P>Pittstown, N. Y., 205</p><P>Pizarro, Francisco de, 105</p><P>Plagiarism, 11</p><P>Plover, 97</p><P>Poison: oak, 207; insects, 93, 193</p><P>Polk James, 11, 37-8, 40, 57</p><P>Porpoises, 87, 105, 116</p><P>Porter, N. Y., 29, 31</p><P>Porto Bello, 172</p><P>Portsmouth Square, 200</p><P>Postoffice, San Francisco, 162</p><P>Poultry, 102, 108</p><P>Pre-emptionists, 137, 140</p><P>Presbyterian ministry, 160, 177, 200, 209</p><P>Prices, 73, 99, 126, 131, 134, 136, 163, 166-7, 182; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Costs</p><P>Profiteering, 51-6, 59-60, 63-4, 89, 195</p><P>Quail, 166-7</p><P>Quarantine, cholera, 66, 188</p><P>Quicksilver, 139, 144, 154</p><P>R., M. E., <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
079.sgm: correspondent, 51-2</p><P>Rabbits, 166</p><P>Railroad; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Panama Railroad</p><P>Rainy season, 21, 24, 58, 139-40, 143-4, 187, 195, 202-3</p><P>Ramos, Julian, 51-2</p><P>Ranches, 91, 97, 131-2, 153-4, 194, 204</p><P>Randell, Swiss vineyardist, 137, 204</p><P><HI REND="italics">Rawson</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Recreation, 103, 108-10, 114-6, 159-60, 176, 18-5, 197-8</p><P>Religion, 90, 93, 103-4, 111, 115, 160, 173, 177, 184-5, 200, 209</p><P>Revere, Joseph Warren, <HI REND="italics">Tour of Duty in California</HI>
079.sgm:, 12</p><P>Reynolds, Mr. 187</p><P>Reynosa, 22</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>Rhode Island, 31; 49ers, 180</p><P>Rice, Mr., 187</p><P>Riley, Bennet, 203</p><P>Rindge, N. H., 33</p><P>River travel, 125, 127-8, 136-7, 141, 164, 178-81, 201</p><P>Riverside, Calif., 32</p><P>Rocheport, Mo., 27</p><P>Rochester, William B., 98</p><P>Rockers, 132, 138, 164-5, 170</p><P>Ross, John E., cited, 206</p><P>Ryan, William Redmond, <HI REND="italics">Personal Adventures in Upper and Lower California in</HI>
079.sgm: 1848-9, 15, 18-9</p><P>S. L.  <HI REND="italics">Crowell</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Sacketts Harbor, N. Y., 34</p><P>Sacramento: 14, 20, 22-5, 125, 137-8, 140-1, 152, 157, 163-4, 169, 201, 205; River, 125, 136, 140, 152, 167, 204</p><P>Saddler, Warren, 84</p><P>Sag Harbor, Me., 67</p><P><HI REND="italics">St. Andrew</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P>St. Augustine, 190</p><P>St. Catherine Island, 172</p><P>St. Louis <HI REND="italics">Missouri Republican</HI>
079.sgm:, 27</p><P>St. Paul's Church, Virgin Islands, 200</p><P>Saltillo, 22</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sampson</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>San Blas, 16, 45, 58</p><P><HI REND="italics">San Blasin&tilde;a,</HI>
079.sgm: 16</p><P>San Buenaventura (Ventura), 35</p><P>San Diego, 33, 205</p><P>San Francisco, 12, 138, 140, 157-8, 181, 186; arrivals at, 13, 16, 18, 20-6, 39, 43-5, 56-8, 69, 74, 133-4, 193-5, 207; departures from, 14, 20, 22-4, 61, 198-0; description of, 13, 120-6, 135-6, 143-4, 159-63; fire of May, 1851, 76; printing at, 14, 17, 22; sailings for, 42, 55, 64, 66, 111, 169, 179, 187, 198-9; Terminus of ocean mail, 195; views of, 75, 76; <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 17-8, 68, 163, 193, 201, 206; <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
079.sgm:, 68; <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
079.sgm:, 163</p><P>San Francisco Bay, 74, 118-20, 128, 141-2</p><P>San Joaquin: County, 203; River, 125, 127, 130, 138, 167, 201</p><P>San Jose, 23</p><P>San Juan River, Nicaragua, 44</p><P>San Lorenzo, fort, 87, 90-1, 172, 178-9, 194</p><P>San Pablo Bay, 120, 141</p><P>Sandwich Islands (Hawaii), 162; Islanders, 45, 114, 123, 208</p><P>Santa Barbara, 35-7, 144</p><P>Santa Clara, 144</p><P>Santa Maria, 172</p><P><HI REND="italics">Santee</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sarah</HI>
079.sgm:,189</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sarah Ann</HI>
079.sgm:, 190, 192</p><P>Sardines, 104</p><P>Sausalito, 74</p><P>Savage, William, 84</p><P>Savannah, 40</p><P>Scientists, 34-7, 144</p><P>Scott, Winfield, 33, 35</p><P>Scurvy, 134, 150, 207</p><P>Schwartz (Swart, Swartz, Swat), John L., 137, 203-4</p><P>Sea: anemone, 104-5; gulls, 104; shells, 104, 109, 184; sickness, 47, 86, 176-7; voyages, 12-4, 16-26, 28, 37-76, 85-6, 144-6, 148-9, 158, 176-80, 208</p><P>Secor &amp; Co., 47</p><P>Seneca River, 127</p><P>Serrell, E. W., 196</p><P>Settle, Raymond W.  <HI REND="italics">March of the Mounted Riflmen</HI>
079.sgm:, 27</p><P><HI REND="italics">Seymore</HI>
079.sgm:, 69</p><P>Sharks, 105, 116</p><P>Shaw, William, <HI REND="italics">Golden Dreams and Waking Realities</HI>
079.sgm:, 16</p><P>Sherman, William Tecumseh, 201</p><P>Ship arrivals at San Francisco, 193</p><P>Shipboard life, 85-7, 114-8, 176-80</p><P>Shipping in Pacific Ocean, 39, 42-3, 55, 58-73</p><P>Shipwrecks, 188, 192; near, 47-9, 87, 176, 193</p><P>Sickness; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Health</p><P>Sidell, W. H., 196</p><P>Sierra Nevada, 14, 119, 130, 149, 153, 167, 209</p><P>Silver, 154</p><P>Simmons, B. &amp; Mrs., 92-3, 194-5</p><P>"Simpson, Henry I.," <HI REND="italics">Three </HI>
079.sgm: Weeks in The Gold Mines, 11</p><P>Skip jacks, 116</p><P>Smith: John, 195; Lewis, 29, 31; Persifor F., 26</p><P>Smith &amp; Burr, 67</p><P>Smiths Bar, 23, 165, 209</p><P>Smithson, Mrs. Richard, 31</p><P>Smithsonian Institution, 34</p><P>Snipes, 97</p><P>Snowballing, 46</p><P>Society of California Pioneers, <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
079.sgm:, 66-7, 76, 199</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<P>Soldiers: in California, 130, 141, 202-3; in Panama, 102-3, 183</p><P><HI REND="italics">Soledad</HI>
079.sgm:, 69</p><P><HI REND="italics">South America</HI>
079.sgm:, 22</p><P>South America, searoutes along, 39, 70</p><P><HI REND="italics">South Carolina</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P>South Newark, Conn., 203</p><P>South Pass route, 26-7</p><P>Southern Mines, 16, 19, 21-2, 77, 127-34, 147-8, 201, 208</p><P>Southworth, Dr., 29</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sophia</HI>
079.sgm:, 69</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sovereign</HI>
079.sgm:, 24, 44, 66, 188</p><P>Spanish: Fort at Charges; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: San Lorenzo; 49ers, 45; period in California, 142; period on Isthmus, 87-8, 90-1, 97, 100-3, 172-3, 193</p><P>Speculation, 89, 121, 125, 137-8, 162-3, 182, 200-1</p><P>Spencer: James M., 84, 205; Marian Miles, 205</p><P><HI REND="italics">Splendid</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P>Spurious narratives, 11-2</p><P>Sqatters, 137</p><P>Squirrels, 97, 107, 166</p><P>Stanislaus Diggings &amp; River, 16, 19, 23, 130, 156, 201-2</p><P>Statehood, California, 26, 141</p><P>Steamships, 13-4, 20, 22-4, 26, 28, 37, 39-42, 47-51, 56-58, 68-9, 120, 125, 138, 141, 162-3, 176, -81, 186, 188-93, 195, 198-9, 201</p><P>Stearns, Robert E. C., cited, 33-7</p><P>Stemmons, John F., cited, 27</p><P>Stephens, John L., 196</p><P>Stevens, Hannah, 33</p><P>Stevenson, J. D., 201</p><P>Stimpson, Mr., 36</p><P>Stockton, Robert Field, 128, 201</p><P>Stockton, 21-3, 77, 125, 127-9, 133-4, 138, 156-7, 163, 201-3</p><P>Stoddard: Charles, 41, 47-8, 52, 177, 180; George, 196</p><P>Storeships, 75</p><P>Storms, 73, 117, 176</p><P>Stowell, Levi, diary cited, 57</p><P>Straits of Magellan, 42</p><P>Suisun Bay, 120, 127, 137, 141</p><P>Sutter, J. A., 137-8, 152-3, 171, 173, 204, 208-9</p><P>Sutter's: Fort, 138, 152, 204; Mill, 148, 205; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Coloma</p><P>Suydam, J. V. D., 84</p><P>Swart, Swartz, Swat; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Schwartz</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sylph</HI>
079.sgm:, 69</p><P>Taboga Island, 35, 61, 103, 197</p><P>Taboguilla Island, 197</p><P>Tahoe (Mountain) Lake, 169, 209</p><P>Tamalpais, Mt., 36</p><P>Tampico, 16, 44</p><P>Taverns, 94, 97, 123, 125, 129, 131-2, 134, 140, 148, 182-4, 194; <HI REND="italics">see also</HI>
079.sgm: Hotels</p><P>Taxation of gold, 151, 208</p><P>Taylor, Bayard, <HI REND="italics">Eldorado</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 23, 25, 204</p><P>Taylor: George W., 55-6; Nelson E., 203; Zachary, 26, 207</p><P>Taylor's Ferry of Stanislaus, 130, 203</p><P>Templeton, 187, 196</p><P>Terrapins, 162</p><P><HI REND="italics">Teviot</HI>
079.sgm:, 191</p><P>Thames, 192</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thetis</HI>
079.sgm:, 190, 192</p><P>Thorne, Marco G., cited, 57</p><P>Thornton, J. Quinn, <HI REND="italics">Oregon and California in 1849</HI>
079.sgm:, 12</p><P>Tiedeman, H., map of, 17</p><P>Tigers (jaguars), 107</p><P>Tilghman, Lloyd, 196</p><P>Todd, Mr., 187</p><P>Treadway, Rev., 139</p><P>Trenton, N. J., <HI REND="italics">Gazette</HI>
079.sgm:, 56</p><P><HI REND="italics">Trent</HI>
079.sgm:, 188</p><P>Trinity River, 23</p><P>Troops; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Soldiers</p><P>Trowbridge: George, 139; Joseph, 139</p><P>Tuleburg, 201; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Stockton</p><P>Tuolumne: County, 203; River, 129, 150, 201, 203</p><P>Turpin &amp; Co., 205</p><P><HI REND="italics">Two Friends</HI>
079.sgm:, 68-9</p><P>Tyson, James L., <HI REND="italics">Diary of a Physician in California</HI>
079.sgm:, 15, 24-5, 44</p><P>Uba; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Yuba</p><P>U. S.  <HI REND="italics">Gen. Warren</HI>
079.sgm:, 74</p><P>U. S. Hotel, Sacramento, 140, 205</p><P>U. S. Mail Steamship Co., 40</p><P>Utica, N.Y., 35, 95, 198</p><P>Valparaiso, 43, 59, 181</p><P>Vaqueros, 130-1, 171</p><P>Ventura (San Buenaventura), 35</p><P>Vera Cruz, 22, 24, 44</p><P>Vermont 49ers, 195</p><P>Verneuil, Ed. de, 34</p><P>Vernon, Edward, 194</p><P>Vineyards, 137</p><P><HI REND="italics">Viola</HI>
079.sgm:, 190</p><P>Vizetelly, Henry ("J. Tyrwhitt Brooks"), <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
079.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
079.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Four Months Among the Gold-Finders</HI>
079.sgm:, 11-2</p><P><HI REND="italics">W. Hazard</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Wagner, Henry R., &amp; Charles L. Camp, <HI REND="italics">The Plains and the Rockies</HI>
079.sgm:, 16, 27</p><P>War of 1812, 29, 33-4</p><P>Waring, Harry, 187</p><P>Warren, Edward, 55</p><P>Warren, R. I., 67, 113</p><P>Washington:  <HI REND="italics">Globe</HI>
079.sgm:, 200; Hall, 160, <HI REND="italics">Republic</HI>
079.sgm:, 45</p><P>Water spout, 145-6</p><P>Watson, Douglas S., cited, 12</p><P>Weavers (Webbers, Webers) Creek, 18, 23</p><P>Weber, Charles M., 201</p><P>Weller, John B., 65, 186</p><P>Wentworth, Mr., 144</p><P>Westport, Mass., 77</p><P>Wet Diggins, 170</p><P>Whalers &amp; Whaling, 63, 6-7, 69, 77, 103, 105, 111-3, 187</p><P>Wheat, Carl I., cited, 15, 16</p><P>Whitman Massacre, 206</p><P>Wierzbicki, F. P., <HI REND="italics">California As It Is</HI>
079.sgm:, 14-5, 207</p><P>Wilbur, Marguerite Eyer, cited, 19</p><P><HI REND="italics">William Thompson</HI>
079.sgm:, 189</p><P>Williams: Albert, 209; J., 196</p><P>Wiltsee, Ernest A., cited, 40, 57, 200</p><P>Windward Passage, 47</p><P>Winter mining; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: Rainy season</p><P><HI REND="italics">Winthrop</HI>
079.sgm:, 49-50, 54, 189, 193</p><P>Wisner, S. W., 140, 167</p><P>Wolcott, George, 196</p><P>Wolves, 131, 166-8</p><P>Women, 49, 88, 90, 103-4, 148, 155, 160, 168-9, 172, 185-6, 194-5, 206</p><P>Wood, James, 201</p><P>Woods, Daniel B., <HI REND="italics">Sixteen Months at the Gold Diggings</HI>
079.sgm:, 16, 205</p><P>Woods: Creek, 150, 201, 207; Crossing, 201</p><P>Woodstock, Vt., 195</p><P>Wrecks at Chagres, 49, 188, 192</p><P>Wright, Lyle A., cited, 21</p><P>Wright, O. C., 10</p><P>Yale University Library, 10, 20</p><P>Yellow fever, 65</p><P>Yerba Buena, 120; <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
079.sgm: San Francisco</p><P>Young, Mrs., stewardess, 177</p><P>Youngstown, N. Y., 29, 31</p><P>Yuba (Juba, Uba) River, 18, 23, 140, 207-8</p><P>Zabriskie, James C., 55, 63-4</p><P>Zollinger, John Peter, cited, 209</p></DIV>
079.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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079.sgm:<DIV><P><HI REND="italics">Designed and printed</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">by Robert Greenwood and Newton Baird</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">at The Talisman Press in an edition limited to</HI>
079.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">750 copies.<HSEP>July, 1960</HI>
080.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-080</TITLE>
080.sgm:<TITLE>California all the way back to 1828. By Michael C. White. Written by Thomas Savage for the Bancroft Library, 1877. Introduction and notes by Glen Dawson; illustrated by Clarence Ellsworth: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
080.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
080.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
080.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
080.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
080.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>56-1844</LCCN>
080.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
080.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
080.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA ALL THE</p><P>WAY BACK TO 1828</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<P>EARLY CALIFORNIA TRAVELS SERIES XXXII</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<illus entity="a080-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MICHAEL C. WHITE (MIGUEL BLANCO) 1801-1885</p></CAPTION>
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080.sgm:<P><HANDWRITTEN>California<LB>All the way back<LB>to 1828.<LB>By<LB>Michael C. White<LB>Written by Thos. Savage<LB>for the<LB>Bancroft Library<LB>1877.</HANDWRITTEN>
080.sgm:</p><P>.INTRODUCTION <HI REND="italics">&amp;</HI>
080.sgm: NOTES <HI REND="italics">by</HI>
080.sgm: GLEN DAWSON</p><P>ILLUSTRATIONS <HI REND="italics">by</HI>
080.sgm: CLARENCE ELLSWORTH</p><P>GLEN DAWSON...LOS ANGELES...1956</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>MICHAEL WHITE was one of the earliest foreigners to settle in California.  He was characterized by Benjamin Wilson as "a man of roving disposition."  White made a number of sea voyages; claimed to have taken part in the first shipbuilding enterprises in California; traveled from California to New Mexico and back in 1839-40; was a pioneer on Catalina Island, in the Cajon Pass near San Bernardino, and in what is now San Marino where his adobe home still stands.  It seems probable that White's Point near San Pedro is named for him.  He was one of the first to bring a wagon from northern California to southern California.  He had a large family and many of his descendants are living in southern California.</p><P>The most important source of information about this pioneer is his own testimony given to Thomas Savage for Hubert Howe Bancroft, printed in full for the first time in this volume.  Bancroft not only collected books, pamphlets, manuscripts and newspapers, but sent out his associates to interview <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:pioneers.  So it was that in 1877 when Michael White was 76 years of age, with a clear memory, he told some of the details of his eventful life.  These accounts given verbally have a freshness and vitality often lacking in formal writing.</p><P>The Bancroft Dictations, preserved in the Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, were an important source for Bancroft's seven volume <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
080.sgm: and have frequently been used by later historians.  Yet most of the dictations remain unpublished, partly due to editorial problems.  There are problems of transcription, punctuation, irregular arrangement, irrelevant or inaccurate passages.  Sometimes language was used which is not normally considered printable.  In this volume an endeavor has been made to let Michael White speak with a minimum of editing.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Early California Travels Series</HI>
080.sgm: has drawn heavily upon Bancroft sources, including printing the reminiscences of Job Dye, Joel P. Walker, William Glover, Dr. R. T. Maxwell, Vassili Tarakanoff, Alexander Markoff, and Jose Francisco Palomares.  Thanks are due to George Hammond, Director of the Bancroft Library for permission to use manuscripts in his care, and for the cooperation of his staff.  An excellent article based on the manuscript printed here is <HI REND="italics">Michael White: Sailor of Fortune</HI>
080.sgm: by Helen S. Giffen, in the Quarterly of the Historical Society of Southern California, September 1940.  Many of the notes used <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:here are based on those by Mrs. Giffen.  Others who assisted in the preparation of this work include L. Burr Belden, K. L. Carver, Catherine MacLean Loud, Allen R. Ottley, W. W. Robinson, and Fred Rogers.  The translations from the Spanish are by George Shochat.</p><P>The Topographical Sketch of the Los Angeles Plains by E. O. C. Ord is reproduced from the Report of P. T. Tyson upon the Geology of California, 31st Congress, 1st Session Senate Ex. Doc. No. 47.  The end sheet maps of White's land grants in San Marino and San Bernardino are from the Los Angeles Recorder's Office and San Bernardino Recorder's Office.  Other acknowledgments appear in the notes.</p><P>GLEN DAWSON.</p></DIV>
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080.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>TABLE OF CONTENTS</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P><HSEP><HI REND="italics">Page</HI>
080.sgm:<LB>MICHAEL C. WHITE, <HI REND="italics">by Thomas Savage</HI>
080.sgm: 15<LB>GULF OF CALIFORNIA<HSEP>17<LB>SANDWICH ISLANDS<HSEP>25<LB>SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>26<LB>FLOOD<HSEP>28<LB>SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>28<LB>SAN PEDRO<HSEP>30<LB>MARRIAGE AND SAN BLAS<HSEP>32<LB>LOS NIETOS<HSEP>33<LB>REVOLUTION AGAINST MICHELTORENA<HSEP>39<LB>NEW MEXICO<HSEP>43<LB>THE BATTLE OF CHINO<HSEP>49<LB>IMPRISONMENT<HSEP>56<LB>RETURN HOME<HSEP>61<LB>EULALIA PEREZ<HSEP>65<LB>GOLD RUSH<HSEP>75<LB>WAGON ROUTE<HSEP>80<LB>BANDITS<HSEP>85<LB>MISSION FATHERS<HSEP>92</p></DIV>
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080.sgm:<DIV><P>CALIFORNIA ALL THE</p><P>WAY BACK TO 1828</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<P>MICHAEL C. WHITE</p><P>THIS AGED MAN lives on his ranch San Isidro at some distance from the San Gabriel mission.  He has been ever since he settled in California known among the native Californians as Miguel Blanco, and, indeed, the certificate of his marriage existing in the archives of said mission, 22 November 1831, calls him Miguel Maria Blanco.  He has a large family of children and grandchildren, and is now reduced to poverty, having to sell his ranch to pay off encumbrances thereon.</p><P>Mr. White is an Englishman, who believes that the Americans have treated him badly; he accuses Americans of having swindled him out of lands and robbed him of other property so that after having labored hard to secure a competency for himself and family, he finds himself in his old age, reduced to penury.  All this misfortune he lays at the door of Americans, their authorities, and laws.</p><P>Apart of that, I found him genial and obliging, willing to impart what he knew.  It is evident that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:is a man who gave but little of his attention to politics, and would take no part in civil strife.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Mrs. Florinda Plaisance, granddaughter of Michael White, described him as of medium height and weight, with blonde hair which he let grow long in later life.  The frontispiece is based closely on a portrait secured by Mrs. Plaisance, a copy of which is in the Huntington Library.</NOTE>
080.sgm:<P>The narrative appearing on the annexed pages I took down from his dictation at the house of his son-in-law, Mr. [Ygnacio] Alvarado at a short distance from this town of Pomona.</p><P>Mr. White is in very feeble health; his hand is extremely shaky, his memory seems to be quite fresh, and I am led to believe from the little I have seen of him, but much more from what others have said of his character, that he is a truthful man, a man who means always to speak the truth.<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">Michael White as a resident of long standing was considered an authority on early history.  For example, when in 1864 B. D. Wilson and party found remains of cabins on Wilson's Peak, White was asked concerning their origin.  In this case he knew nothing about them.  Reid, <HI REND="italics">History of Pasadena</HI>
080.sgm:<P>Pomona, December 16th, 1877.</p><P>THOS. SAVAGE.</p></DIV>
080.sgm:<BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<DIV><illus entity="a080-0005" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GULF OF CALIFORNIA</HEAD>
080.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n2-3">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:<P>I, MICHAEL CLARINGBUD WHITE (generally known in California under the name of Miguel Blanco) was born in Kent (England) and brought up there till I was 13 years old.  My father and his father were named James White, and were farmers.  My mother's maiden name was Elizabeth MacTed.<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3">The chapter headings do not appear in the manuscript.</NOTE>
080.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">H. D. Barrows who knew Michael White well and interviewed him in 1881 gives White's birthplace as Margate in Kent and the date as February 10, 1801.  ( <HI REND="italics">Michael White, The Pioneer</HI>
080.sgm:<P>At 13 I was apprenticed to the master of the ship <HI REND="italics">Perseverance</HI>
080.sgm: of London, whose name was William Mott.  I was with him 2 years and 9 months in the whaling business, was left ashore at San Jose&acute; del Cabo in Lower California, that was in 1817 in my 16th year, for I was born on the 10th (Shrove tuesday) of Feb. 1802.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:<P>I went ashore with liberty for a walk, hired a horse and went to take a ride in the country.  The horse fell down, caught my foot under it and put it out of joint.  The horse ran away to the house it belonged.  The women of the house on seeing the horse without a rider, and the saddle somewhat out of gear, came to where I was, picked me up and carried me home.  They pulled my foot till they got it in place again, and took care of me till I was well.  They were very good people.  The old man's name was Ignacio Ma&acute;rquez and his wife's Lucia.  They treated me with the utmost kindness, and, I, of course, did all I could to help them.  I was in the place and vicinity about 15 months.  The authorities never interfered with me.</p><P>I finally went to La Paz and shipped on a small Mexican schooner called the <HI REND="italics">Flor de Mayo</HI>
080.sgm:, commanded by a Spaniard named Pepe Sailas.  That was in 1819.  La Paz was then under the Mexican flag.  There were no houses there then, and the vessel came to exchange flour and other things for cheeses, preserves, and other country produce.  We repaired to Mazatlan, where there was no other building but the Custom House.  From there went to Guaimas--not a sign of a building there but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:the Custom House.  After arriving in Guaimas the master Sailas who was also owner of the schooner, went off to his home in the country, and placed the vessel in my charge.  I knew how to sail her having been taught navigation on board the <HI REND="italics">Perseverance</HI>
080.sgm:.  Besides, not much knowledge of navigation was necessary to sail on the coast.</p><P>Went back to La Paz, and then returned to Guaimas.  When I reached Guaimas, the owner came on board and we went together to Mazatlan calling at La Paz.  I left him in Mazatlan, as I got a fit of home sickness--wanted to go back to Old England, and I had saved up a little money.  Embarked for Acapulco as passenger on a Mexican Brig, touched at San Blas and there with a boat of said Brig re-captured by hard fighting an American Brig named the <HI REND="italics">Lancaster</HI>
080.sgm: (a Baltimore clipper) which had been taken by some French and Spanish people to make a privateer of.  Those pirates that had captured the American Brig were carried to Guadalajara, tried and shot--that was in 1820.  I was a witness before the English and American Consuls on the hill in San Blas.  The English Consul was named Forbes.  I don't remember the name of the American Consul, and never wanted to, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:he was a mean man, who offered me 5$ for the service I had rendered in recapturing the Brig.  I told him to stick it up his fundament, to his face.  I was mad as well as ashamed of the insult.  The English Consul told him that he had grievously insulted me, that I was entitled to claim 1/3 the value of the vessel, and asked me if I wanted to make the claim.  I answered <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
080.sgm:.  After that we went on to Acapulco, where I was taken sick--found no vessel going home.</p><P>In the fight for the recapture of the <HI REND="italics">Lancaster</HI>
080.sgm:, I had only 4 men, and took her without anything but a boathook from the 24 men that held her.  I was wounded on the shin by a big Frenchman with a cutlass.  He struck at my head, but I jumped back, and fell on my back.  The cutlass peeled my skin.  In San Blas the British Consul told me to stop that night in his house but I had the two pistols I had taken from the Frenchman, and started off to go down the hill to the port where I had a girl.  In going down I saw three men scuffling on the road and thought they were waiting for me, but it was not so.  They had robbed and killed a poor man, and I stepped over him.  He was not quite dead yet and breathed hard.  I got down to the port and told the Alcalde Lorenzo (his surname I did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:not know), who was an Italian by birth.  He advised me to hush up.  The murdered man had been sent from there with 2000$.  The reason he told me to say nothing was that I would be detained and lose my passage.</p><P>As I said before, on my arrival at Acapulco I was taken sick with fever.  I had to spend all the money I had, and to sell all my clothes, had nothing left but a Scotch cap, a duck frock and pair of pantaloons, no shirt, shoes or anything else.  I was then entirely destitute, and no vessel there to get away in.</p><P>Then there came in a small Mexican hermaphrodite Brig belonging to two brothers, Felipe and Nicolas Lastra.  She was called the <HI REND="italics">Eagle</HI>
080.sgm:, but the owners being natives of Paita (Peru) people called her the <HI REND="italics">Paitena</HI>
080.sgm:, indeed, she was built in Paita.</p><P>I was on the beach one day when one of the owners came on shore, spoke to me in broken English, asked me if I had been sick.  I answered in the affirmative, and he told me that I was sick because I had had nothing to eat--asked me to go on board.  I asked him if he thought I could be of any use to him on the vessel, and he said "Never mind--go on board."  I did so and got something to eat.  In the evening he asked me if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:I could repair sails.  I told him I had done it.  He got me to repair the foresail, and finally asked me to go as mate with him, which I did, very glad of the chance.  He paid me 1$ each day for the time we laid in port, then I shipped as mate with 30$ pr month, and the privilege of taking two mules' loads of tobacco or any other goods that might be smuggled.  Came with him to La Paz, thence to Guaimas; he then delivered the Brig over to me saying I was as smart as he, and even a little better.  I sailed her as master from that time till the year 1826.  Then there came in at Guaimas a Philadelphia Brig, the <HI REND="italics">Gen. Sucre</HI>
080.sgm: and as I had made some money I concluded to go to Sandwich Islands to see if I could find a British vessel there to carry me home.  All the time I was in Guaimas, I was engaged in smuggling money out of the country for the priests.  It was the time when the Government were expelling the Spanish priests from Mexico and did not allow them to take out their money without paying a heavy duty, nearly one half of the amount.  I went over to the California side in the Brig to take in pearl-oyster shells--met Tova the Governor living on his ranch Dolores betwixt La Paz and Loreto--he knew me and gave me some goats which I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:took over to Guaimas, and they served me as a cover to bring money away from the shore.</p><P>When the money was on the point, a small light was shown.  In the morning I would go ashore in the boat for grass.  Took in the pigs of silver, and covered them with grass, and then came on board.  The Custom House officer on board was invited into the cabin to take his <HI REND="italics">man&tilde;ana</HI>
080.sgm: [morning] or <HI REND="italics">las once</HI>
080.sgm: [eleven o'clock] and whilst he was down there, the silver was pitched in and stowed away under the pearl shells--he never saw the silver, but he was paid for closing his eyes.  Custom house boat never searched me, as they did other boats.  I was called the "Old man."  The fact is all knew I was serving the priests, whose influence was very great.</p><P>From there we went to Mazatlan and the priest asked me if I could go and fetch on board two bars of silver (1000$ each) in the day time.  I answered <HI REND="italics">yes</HI>
080.sgm:.  I went, got the two bars lashed them under my shirt with my belt, and passed in sight of the Custom House officers and took them on board.  I pretended to be as drunk as a loon, and kept singing and hallooing.  When I got on the boat I was worn out, untied the belt and dropped the bars in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:bottom of the boat, at same time dropped my boat cloak over them.  I had a Frenchman with me, who would not pull.  I had sculled the boat a little ways.  He got fighting me, got me under, and was striking me.  I was trying to keep him off with my arms.  He stood over me, and in that predicament I got hold of his privy parts and hove him over board, where I left him--he asked me if I intended to leave him there to drown, and I answered yes, "drown and be damned, you Jonny Crapeau."  He begged hard to be rescued, and when I saw he was well worn out, pulled him on board--he could do me no harm then.  Capt. Pittores of the Philadelphia Brig saw the whole transaction.  He came on board and told the Frenchman to get his chest up, paid him off and we carried him off in the boat to one of the islands of Mazatlan where we left him, and that's the last I ever saw of the Frenchman.</p><P>That evening we got under weigh and proceeded to off San Blas, being afraid that the Frenchman might report our doings.  Two canoes came off to us and brought on board 36 bars of silver (1000$ each).</p></DIV>
080.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SANDWICH ISLANDS</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>THENCE WENT to Sandwich Islands.<ANCHOR ID="n3-5">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: Were 20 days on the pasage, left the vessel there.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-5">According to H. D. Barrows, White had been in the Sandwich Islands in 1816 prior to coming to Lower California.</NOTE>
080.sgm:<P>There were no ships going home from the Islands.  Stayed there some time and finally shipped upon a Sandwich man of war Brig named <HI REND="italics">Kameahmeah</HI>
080.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n3-6">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: (the King's name); I was first Lieut. of her.  We knocked around the islands gathering in the taxes.  I was there from latter part of 1826 till May 1828.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-6">The <HI REND="italics">Kamehameha</HI>
080.sgm: was a vessel owned by Boki, Hawaiian high chief, member of Kamehameha II suite on the voyage to England, 1823-25.  Boki and his ship were mysteriously lost in 1829.  (Bernice Judd, <HI REND="italics">Voyages to Hawaii before 1860</HI>
080.sgm:<P>Then Mr. [Richard] Charlton, the English Consul, had a Brig called the <HI REND="italics">Dolly</HI>
080.sgm: --he employed me to bring her to this coast as a trader, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:and to buy horses and send them there.<ANCHOR ID="n3-7">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: My agreement with him was that if I could better myself here in California I was to stop.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-7">Bancroft, III, 146. lists an American brig, <HI REND="italics">Dhaulle</HI>
080.sgm: (or <HI REND="italics">Dolly</HI>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SAN FRANCISCO</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>I FIRST went into San Francisco (which was not then a port of entry), where I bought two fine otter skins in exchange for a barrel of whiskey; there was an American ship belonging to Gale lying in port getting off hides.  I was taking my barrel on shore in the night, and there was a man under the hides belonging to the Ship whom I had not seen.  Just as the purchaser got the barrel on a pack horse, the man under the hides jumped up, the horse started, the barrel fell, stove its head in, the purchaser went after his horse, and I went off on board.  I had the otter skins on my vessel--he lost his whiskey and I saved the skins.  The next morning the sailors went after the hides, saw the whiskey <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:and got drunk.  In a short time I could see 10 men drunk and fighting.  I stood there and laughed, but knew well it was no time to stay there.  I up anchor and started for Monterey, stowed away all the costly things where they could not be easily discovered by the Government officers.  Entered there and a Custom House officer was put on board of me to prevent my smuggling.  He was Jose&acute; Castro, who afterwards was so prominent in California history.  As soon as we got off Punto de Pinos, Jose&acute; Castro came to me and said "Well <HI REND="italics">mi capita&acute;n</HI>
080.sgm:, with the little that the Government gives me, and the little that you will give me, will make me a pretty good salary, won't it be so?"  I answered yes, and we understood one another.  He never saw me smuggle.  Whenever I had anything of that kind to do, he went down into the cabin and attacked the bottle of liquor.  We were very good friends from that time to the day of his death.</p><P>I left the Brig in Santa Barbara and sent her back to Sandwich Islands, with 60 heads of horses.  That was in 1828 in the month of August, don't remember the day.<ANCHOR ID="n4-8">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-8">Barrows writes "In 1828, as captain of his own vessel, the <HI REND="italics">Dolly</HI>
080.sgm:, he engaged in the coasting trade, visiting Bodega, then occupied by the Russians, and from thence coming to San Francisco, Monterey, Santa Barbara, San Pedro and San Diego, and then back to Santa Barbara, where he went ashore to stay.  Here he bought sixty-four horses, which the <HI REND="italics">Dolly</HI>
080.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FLOOD</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>I HAD all my movements set down in my log book and kept it in my house at the place now called Compton on the way to Port San Pedro, when the freshet came 1839 in January, and ruined it.  The water was in the house waist deep for 6 weeks.  My family were there when it began to rain in the latter part of December 1838.  Two days before Christmas I sent them off to Los Angeles and remained in the house and then never had a chance of getting away till February.  The two rivers, San Gabriel and Los Angeles, met and overflowed the whole country.<ANCHOR ID="n5-9">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-9">This paragraph and the section on New Mexico are not in chronological order, but the arrangement has been left just as it appears in the manuscript.</NOTE>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SANTA BARBARA</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>IN 1829 I was in Santa Barbara when the revolted troops of Monterey and San Francisco, under Joaquin Solis, were expected to come and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:attack the place.  I was engaged in building a schooner at a place called Malcasquetan (it was afterward called la Goleta, in consequence of the building of the Schooner there), when I was sent for by Capt. Jose&acute; de la Guerra y Noriega, who told me to guard his house with the 18 men I had under my superintendence constructing the vessel for him.  He ordered me that if any one came I was to cry out three times <HI REND="italics">Quie&acute;n Vive</HI>
080.sgm:?  [Who goes there?] and if no satisfactory answer was returned to the 3rd call, I was to fire.  My men all got drunk and he told me I had better stand the first sentry.  I told him all right, but I thought to myself that I had never walked with a musket on my shoulder.</p><P>I had a good old fashioned fowling piece.  In the night I saw the old Captain go out to pass water, and as he was coming I cocked my gun, and hallooed out, <HI REND="italics">Quie&acute;n vive tres veces</HI>
080.sgm:! [Who goes there three times!]  I was not going to bother giving <HI REND="italics">quie&acute;n vive, quie&acute;n vive, quie&acute;n vive</HI>
080.sgm:!  He cried out, <HI REND="italics">yo, yo, picaro, tu esta&acute;s ma&acute;s borracho que los otros; anda a dormir</HI>
080.sgm:, [I, you rascal; you are drunker than the others; go to sleep!] which was precisely what I wanted, and did go to sleep.  The next day he asked me if I would have shot him--answered yes, laughing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:and pretended that I had not understood him as to the manner of giving the <HI REND="italics">Quie&acute;n vive</HI>
080.sgm: three times.  His wife and I had a real good laugh at the old Captain's expense.  The good old man, I hope he is in heaven, for he deserved it.  Every time I went to his house, he would cry out to his wife, "Get out the money, Michael wants <HI REND="italics">plata</HI>
080.sgm: [silver]."  I would say "No, I have come for provisions," but he would insist that I should have some money--this was his way, invariably.</p><P>The Commandante General Echeandia was there; the Commandante of the place was Don Romualdo Pacheco, father of ex-Governor and member of Congress Pacheco.  The revolutionists fired several cannon shot at the presidio--they had possession of the mission, but they dissolved themselves and went back to Monterey.  I don't know the particulars of that affair, except that the revolution was put down, the chief leaders captured and sent to Mexico.</p></DIV>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SAN PEDRO</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>THE BUILDING of the Schooner was discontinued.  An American Brig called the <HI REND="italics">Danube</HI>
080.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n7-10">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:was wrecked at San Pedro on Christmas eve and Captain de la Guerra bought her.  I had a cousin named Henry Paine whom I had seen once in La Paz and met in Santa Barbara when I got there in 1828.  He was my chief carpenter in constructing the Schooner.  The Captain prior to buying the <HI REND="italics">Danube</HI>
080.sgm: had sent him to San Pedro to survey the wreck, get her off, and put such repairs on her as might be necessary.  He went to San Pedro and she proved to be a splendid vessel but could not be got off.  I went afterward to San Pedro; started on 30 December and got there on New Year's eve.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-10">For other references to the <HI REND="italics">Santa Barbara</HI>
080.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Danube</HI>
080.sgm:<P>We had everything ready to get her off, and were waiting for the tide to rise, when a gale came on and brought her high and dry.  She got on the top of the bank so that I could walk off her bowsprit on the shore.  She was knocked all to pieces, and we saved all the materials and built a schooner out of them.  She was named the <HI REND="italics">Santa Barbara</HI>
080.sgm:, and was the first vessel ever built in California.  She was placed under command of a man called Thomas Robinson,<ANCHOR ID="n7-11">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: a Nantucket man.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-11">Thomas M. Robbins came to California in 1823.  In 1846 he was granted Santa Catalina Island.</NOTE>
080.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MARRIAGE AND SAN BLAS</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>AFTER FINISHING that job, we built another schooner for the Mission San Gabriel in 1830, that was named the <HI REND="italics">Guadalupe</HI>
080.sgm:, and put under command of William Richardson, an Englishman who in after years owned Saucelito and was Capt. of the port of San Francisco.</p><P>She made a trip to San Blas and came back, and then I took charge of her myself some 8 days after I was married [1831] to Ma. del Rosario Guillen, daughter of the famous centenarian Eulalia Perez, and Miguel Antonio Guillen.  I went in her to Mazatlan and San Blas.  Richardson and another man named Manl. Somali went with me as super cargoes.  The cargo consisted of dry tongues, olives, wine, dried beef, soap, Mission aguardiente and other trifles, and two priests, not of the missionaries here.  One of them was Father Jesus Martinez who married me.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Guadalupe</HI>
080.sgm: measured 99 90/100 tons--was a topsail schooner, and carried about 150 tons of cargo.</p><P>I was away less than one year and came back in a hermaphrodite Brig called <HI REND="italics">Eagle</HI>
080.sgm:, the same one I had charge of some years before in the Gulf of California.  I was engaged in trading, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:working, carpentering and one thing and another during my absence.  I wrote to my wife (who thought I must be dead), but got to California before my letters did.  I was here about one month before my letters.<ANCHOR ID="n8-12">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: This brings me to 1832.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-12">White did not hear from his family in England until eighteen years after he left home.  (Barrows.)</NOTE>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LOS NIETOS</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>WHEN I came back I went to live on the Nietos ranch, and set up a little store.  Was appointed Alcalde.</p><P>I forgot to mention that when I was in San Diego in the latter part of 1831, on the point of going to sea, I received a letter from Father Jose&acute; Sanchez, missionary of San Gabriel, informing me of the events connected with the revolution against Commandante Gen. Victoria, that Capt. Romualdo Pacheco had been killed in a fight between Los Angeles and Cahuenga, and Victoria severely wounded, and that my mother in law, Mrs. Eulalia Perez de Guillen, was nursing him.  Victoria brought me letters from home and delivered them to me at San Blas.  He was taken there by American ship <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:<HI REND="italics">California</HI>
080.sgm:, Capt. Bradshaw from San Diego.  By the bye the old lady married during my absence an old Spanish artilleryman named Juan Marine&acute;, a Catalan.</p><P>Nothing worthy of mention happened during my stay in Los Nietos until 1836.</p><P>In the mean time Gen. Figueroa had been <HI REND="italics">Gefe Poli&acute;tico</HI>
080.sgm: [Political Chief, or Leader] and <HI REND="italics">Comandante General</HI>
080.sgm: from the early part of 1833 to latter part of 1835 when he died and was buried in the Church of Santa Barbara Mission.</p><P>In the year 1836 I was still Alcalde in Los Nietos, and Jose&acute; Sepu&acute;lveda was the <HI REND="italics">Juez de Paz</HI>
080.sgm: [Justice of the Peace] in Los Angeles.  I got from him a letter directing me to meet him next day at Los Angeles with every man capable of bearing arms residing in my jurisdiction.  Next day I could only get together 3 brothers named Alvitre out of a population of 100 men.</p><P>We four rode into town to the court house; the brothers got off their horses, went in and were talking to Judge Sepu&acute;lveda--then came out with the Judge.  I was still sitting on my horse.  He said to me, " <HI REND="italics">Miguel, ya estas aqui</HI>
080.sgm:?"  [Are you here already?]  I answered, "Yes. what do you want with me?"  He directed me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:to alight and go in.  There were sitting in the office (I think it was in the latter part of Feb. 1837) Don Jose&acute; Castro, Don Juan Bautista Alvarado and my brother-in-law, the Alferez Isidoro Guillen.  The first words Sepu&acute;lveda uttered to me were if I was ready to go and die with him in San Diego.  I answered that I had no idea of dying.  He then explained that he had not meant to convey the idea that I had about dying.  He grumbled about the people of San Diego having fooled them, and taken away the piece of artillery they had.  He wanted me to go and help take it away from the Dieguinos, and I refused.  Then, he said, "Why, you are a citizen."  I answered, "Yes, I am a citizen of Mexico, but not a citizen of revolutions."  He then repeated two or three times the question "So you won't go?" and I repeated my answer that I would not, each time in a more peremptory tone, then he broke out, " <HI REND="italics">Pues, va&acute;yase a su casa</HI>
080.sgm:."  [Well, then go on home.]  I thanked him, and told him that was precisely what I wanted to do.  Castro, Alvarado and Guillen had a good laugh.  Alvarado said " <HI REND="italics">Que&acute; clase de Ingle&acute;s es ese tan chala&acute;n</HI>
080.sgm:?"  [What kind of Englishman is this smart horse-trader?]  Castro replied, " <HI REND="italics">Ese es mi viejo Capita&acute;n, y mi disci&acute;pulo</HI>
080.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:<HI REND="italics">pero el disci&acute;pulo ha llegado a saber ma&acute;s que su maestro</HI>
080.sgm:."  [That's my chief and my pupil, but the pupil has come to know more than the master.]</p><P>A day or so after Castro came to my house at Los Nietos, and asked me to go with him to Las Flores, where the San Diego and Los Angeles troops were encamped.  I declined to go, but went with him as far as Santa Ana at his own request.  Carried a demijohn of aguardiente and 4 case bottles, two in each saddle bag, and the demijohn slung on the head of the saddle.  He tried hard to induce me on the road to go with him to Las Flores, assuring me there would be no fight as he felt he could talk the Southerners out of it.  I answered him that one reason why I wouldn't go was that Macedonio Gonalez, an own cousin of my wife and my <HI REND="italics">compadre</HI>
080.sgm: [a name used to express kinship between father and godfather] (I had been godfather to his son) was among the <HI REND="italics">abejen&tilde;os</HI>
080.sgm: [those from down below, Southerners] in Las Flores, belonging to the Mission San Luis Rey, where the mission had a Chapel, and a priest would go there to celebrate mass every two Sundays.  (The Mission had, besides the principal church at San Luis, another chapel in Pala.  Las Flores <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:and Pala were ranches of that mission occupied by Indians of different tribes.)</p><P>I gave Castro the demijohn of liquor at Santa Ana and returned to Los Nietos.  The 4 flasks I gave to an old woman living at the Coyotes, nearly halfway between Santa Ana and Los Nietos.</p></DIV>
080.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>REVOLUTION AGAINST MICHELTORENA</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>NOTHING MORE happened in which I had the slightest participation until the revolution against Micheltorena in 1844-5.</p><P>In the mean time [1843] I had moved to the place I now have at the Mission San Gabriel, called rancho San Isidro,<ANCHOR ID="n10-13">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: and was Alcalde.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-13"><P>Granted to White as Michael Maria White by Pio Pico, last Mexican Governor of California on March 27, 1845.  Confirmed as an area of about 78 acres by the United States in 1872.  ( <HI REND="italics">Paten Book</HI>
080.sgm: 1, page 212, Recorder's Office, Los Angeles.)  The original adobe has been restored by K. L. Carver and others and is a central feature of the San Marino High School.  Chain of title and other information in typed folder, <HI REND="italics">Restoration of the Old Adobe</HI>
080.sgm:, by K. L. Carver, 1951.</p><P>Benjamin Hayes and his wife visited White's San Isidro rancho in 1852 and Mrs. Hayes wrote a description of the visit.  <HI REND="italics">Pioneer Notes, Diaries of Judge Benjamin Hayes</HI>
080.sgm:<P>In Feb. 1845 I was sent for by the Juez de Paz Juan Sepu&acute;lveda (now living in San Pedro) of Los Angeles.  I remember the words of his letter that if I did not present myself in Los <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:Angeles by 10 o'clock on the day following the date, I was to be adjudged " <HI REND="italics">traidor a la patria</HI>
080.sgm: [traitor to the country].  I went in there and asked the Judge what he wanted me for.  Just at this moment a fellow came and took my hat away, and then brought it back to me with a red ribbon around it.  Then Mr. William Workman came out of the office to where I was standing, and asked me to what party I belonged.  I answered, "To the party of myself."  "Then," says he, "you are one of my soldiers."  I told him I didn't see it, and he pointed at my hat, saying I had his ribbon on.</p><P>I didn't want to have anything to do with the revolution, but Workman took me against my will, to Cahuenga.  That night we passed in the house of Cahuenga, lying around, singing songs, eating and drinking.<ANCHOR ID="n10-14">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-14">This probably refers to the house of Tomas Feliz, which was built at the north end of Cahuenga Pass.  (Giffen.)</NOTE>
080.sgm:<P>Next day went as far as the Alamos.  There the Micheltorena forces fired cannon at us, but at a great distance.  They kept up the firing the whole day, and we lost one horse whose head was shot off.  That was the only casualty we had.  The firing was returned.  The enemy's balls were picked up and returned to him.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:<P>The next day came down about two miles to the east of Cahuenga, where the springs begin to rise in the river Los Angeles.<ANCHOR ID="n10-15">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: We there were all the time under a bank.  Our captain was William Workman, the Lt. John Rowland.  Don't remember who were the other officers.  Our company was of about 100 men.  I can't remember the names of all, but among our number were: Danl. Sexton (Am.), P. Mace (Am.), James Beckwith (Am. mulatto), John Reed (Am.), B. D. Wilson, James Barton, the three brothers Callahan (Am.), John the Baker (Irish), Cooper (Eng.).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-15">If White's mileage is correct this would have brought them to a point on the river almost in a line with the present Walt Disney Studios.  (Giffen.)</NOTE>
080.sgm:<P>When we wanted to shoot we had to lift our arms to shoot over the bank which was higher than our heads.</p><P>I know that there were negotiations between our Captain and the Captain of the foreign camp on the Micheltorena side, but what they were about I never knew, and very soon Micheltorena surrendered at Cahuenga, binding himself to leave the country with his officers and troops that he had brought from Mexico.  Those troops were a pack of thieves.  Nothing could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:be left within reach of them that they didn't steal; shirts, cooking utensils and everything, and in many instances attempted to ravish women.  It was understood that they were men taken out of the presidio on Lake Chapala, and of the jails, and many of the officers were no better or even worse than their men, for in many instances to screen their men they didn't hesitate to tell lies.  Several of the soldiers would not hesitate to commit murder to possess themselves of articles of even trifling value.</p><P>One night I met in Los Angeles in the street where the Temple Bank now is, one of those fellows with a knife pointed at me who demanded my sarape in these words: " <HI REND="italics">Daca mi sarape, hace tiempo que lo has usado, y estoy careciendo de e&acute;l</HI>
080.sgm:."  [Give me the sarape; you have had it a long time, and I need it.]</p><P>I pulled out a pistol and said to him, " <HI REND="italics">Ven a cogerlo" [Come and get it], and he ran like a son of a gun, didn't stop to get the blanket.</HI>
080.sgm:</p><P>Micheltorena, as I said, surrendered with his troops and went to San Pedro and embarked, and I went home the same evening.  Pio Pico became Governor, and my old friend Jose&acute; Castro Comandante General.  Pico has also been always a good friend to me.</p></DIV>
080.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>NEW MEXICO</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>I HAD FORGOTTEN to state, in April 1839 I started from Los Angeles for New Mexico,<ANCHOR ID="n11-16">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: as far as Taos.  I accompained a New Mexican expedition carrying horses and mules.  I carried 50 head, mostly horses, of my own; reached Taos in July without anything very important happening on the way--had a little skirmish with the Utes on the Red river.  One of the Utes came and told me not to interfere in the fight as we were friends, and if any of my animals were taken, they should be returned to me--that the Mexicans had robbed them, and they were getting the value of their own.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-16">In 1838 or 1839 White under his California name, Miguel Blanco, applied for land in the San Bernardina area as one of the Lugo colonists and before going to New Mexico lived for a short period in or near the Santa Ana River bottom on land occupied by one Hipolito.  No doubt White camped there preparing for the trip to New Mexico.  (Beattie, <HI REND="italics">Heritage of the Valley</HI>
080.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<P>We stopped a day or two on a lake called the San Jose&acute; (now known as the Beggars'), and I told my partner to take care of the horses, as I wanted to ride around and take a look at the country.  Riding round I heard firing a little ahead of me.  Hurrying on, I discovered that our New Mexicans had surrounded a rancheria of Piutes.  I saw one little Indian boy, about 12 years old, with his arm nearly shot off, just hanging by the skin a little below the shoulder.  I began to scold the New Mexicans and called them a pack of damned brutes and cowards, and they were so.</p><P>There was one old Indian, standing with his bow and arrow.  They wanted to take and kill him, but were afraid to approach near enough to come within reach of his arrow.  I went up to the Indian and asked him for his bow and arrows--they had solemnly promised me not to hurt him if I succeeded in disarming him.  The Indian handed them to me and I shall never forgive myself for having taken the word of those villains, for villains they were, of the blackest kind.  As soon as they saw the Indian without arms they came near and riddled him with bullets.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:<P>I parted with them and went by myself.  This was a considerable distance from our camp.</p><P>I found another rancheria in a thicket of willows.  An Indian came out and by sign asked me if I had come to fight.  I said <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
080.sgm:; then he asked me if I was hungry, and answering in the affirmative, he invited me to alight, and partake of what he had, which was <HI REND="italics">atole</HI>
080.sgm: [a drink], made of the seed of hogweed, and barbecued trout of the most delicious--as you may suppose, considering I had had nothing to eat in nearly 24 hours.  Whilst I was eating up came the confounded New Mexicans, and the Indians ran to conceal themselves in the brush.  All but two succeeded in escaping--those two unfortunate Piutes were taken by the Mexicans, tied, and shot in cold blood.  I begged, entreated, threatened, and did all I could to have their lives spared but all my efforts were unavailing.  When they were about to shoot the Indians, I was so indignant that I raised my gun, aimed at one of the gang, and pulled the trigger, and it wouldn't fall, though I pulled it with all my force.  10 or 12 guns were pointed at me, but they didn't fire, as my gun had not gone off--they said this was what saved me.  The rascal's name was Toma&acute;s Salazar.  I assured them that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:would never again travel with such a set of brutes.  They answered, " <HI REND="italics">Que! no es pecado matar esos indios gentiles</HI>
080.sgm:."  [Oh, well.  It's no sin to kill those pagan Indians.]</p><P>My partner in the camp wanted me to keep quiet, because the New Mexicans were exasperated against me and would put me to death if I said more.  From that time I had no rest at night.  I was apprehensive of being murdered.</p><P>Finally reached Taos, and stayed there the rest of 1839, and till the fall of 1840.  During that period I visited Santa Fe&acute; two or three times, trading for blankets.  I had sold or exchanged all my horses and mules for blankets.  Most of the time I was in the store of Mr. William Workman at Taos.</p><P>In the fall of 1840 Mr. William Workman, Mr. John Rowland, Mr. Benj. D. Wilson, William Gordon and his family, William Knight, a German tailor named Jacob, Hamilton, Dr. Lyman (afterwards a famed scientist of Philadelphia), Taylor, Col. McClewen, and a great many others, whose names I can't recollect.<ANCHOR ID="n11-17">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: We formed a party of 94 or 95 all foreigners, started from Taos in September for California, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
080.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
080.sgm:and arrived here in December at the Cajon.  We celebrated Christmas day at the Cajon.  We of course considered ourselves in California then.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-17">For a list of this party see Hafen, <HI REND="italics">Old Spanish Trail</HI>
080.sgm:<P>We met with no adventures on the road.  Indians would occasionally come to our camp and beg for something to eat, which we gave them.  We finally reached Los Angeles, where each man took his own road.  I came home to my family at the Mesa just below Los Angeles.<ANCHOR ID="n11-18">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-18"><P>White failed to mention an important event of 1843 when he was granted the Rancho Muscupiabe in the mouth of Cajon pass.  White remained on the Muscupiabe nine months, his family being with him six weeks of the time.  He built a strong dwelling of logs and earth. and corrals for his stock.  The object of this establishment, supported by several landowners, was to head off Indian stock thieves coming from the Mojave desert.  White, however, lost his stock to the Indians and abandoned the place.  In 1853 claim was made to the United States Land Commission, White to receive half the land and the attorney the other half.  White sold his half in 1859 to Henry Hancock.  The boundaries were stretched from the original one league to five leagues and not until 1889 was the matter finally settled.  Because this land slipped through White's hands probably added to his bitterness in later life.  (Beattie, <HI REND="italics">Heritage of the Valley</HI>
080.sgm:, 90, 92-93.)  (See also "Rancheria Amuscopiabit" by Gerald A. Smith in the <HI REND="italics">Masterkey</HI>
080.sgm:, July-August, 1953.)  An account of White's killing Chief Coyote in Cajon Pass is found in Guinn, <HI REND="italics">A History of California and an Extended History of its Southern Coast Counties</HI>
080.sgm:, Los Angeles, 1907.  Vol. II, p. 2148.</p><P>The fortress like house White built stood on the piedmont between Devil and Cable canyons, according to present day terminology.  The land is now in vineyard owned by the Meyer family of Verdemont.  (L. Burr Belden.)</p><P>The Rancho Muscupiabe plat is filed in the San Bernardino Recorder's office in connection with the certification of title by the U.S. Land Office (U.S. Survey July 11, 1868), page 24.  The accompanying pages give the court decisions validating the title.</p></NOTE>
080.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE BATTLE OF CHINO</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>I WAS WORKING in September 1846 for Mr. Hugo Reid building a house at the place where Mr. B. D. Wilson now lives.<ANCHOR ID="n12-19">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: My home was at the San Isidro ranch, which I still hold.  Reid went up to San Francisco.  There was a man sawing lumber at San Gorgonio,<ANCHOR ID="n12-20">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: named Pablo Weaver.  I am coming to see this lumber.  When I got to the Chino ranch, belonging to Isaac Williams,<ANCHOR ID="n12-21">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: he asked me to remain, and as I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:had had a long ride, I consented to stay.  That evening B. D. Wilson came there with his men, 18 all told.  After that other men joined us. namely Rubidoux, John Rowland, David Alexander, George Walters, Loring and an Austrian named William Skene or Stene.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-19">Rancho Huerta de Cuati was owned by Victoria Reid, wife of Hugo Reid.  She owned this rancho and that of Santa Anita and was one of the few full-blooded Indians to hold land under a Mexican grant, in California.  She sold to Huerta de Cuati to Don Benito Wilson, who renamed it "Lake Vineyard."</NOTE>
080.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-20">The mission rancho San Gorgonio, at the summit of the pass of that name, was the most eastern property occupied by San Gabriel.  In 1845 Pauline Weaver joined Isaac Williams in petitioning the Mexican government for a grant of this former mission holding. (Beattie, <HI REND="italics">Heritage of the Valley</HI>
080.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-21">The ranch house of Isaac Williams, the site of the Battle of Chino, is no longer in existence, but was about three miles southwest of the present town of Chino.</NOTE>
080.sgm:<P>Among Wilson's original 18 were William and Edward Cottrell (both sailors) and Godey and Perdue (American Creoles from St. Louis, Mo. and both officers under Wilson).  I don't remember the names of the others--one of them was an American sailor, who some years after was hung in San Diego for having joined hostile Indians to commit depredations.  We by this time formed a party of 22 or 23.<ANCHOR ID="n12-22">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: That night I stood guard with David Alexander (present [1877] sheriff of Los Angeles).  I heard the Californians who were besieging us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:that they would burn us out the next morning.  I think that was the night of 26 September.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-22">Lieut. Benjamin D. Wilson's Company E, California Battalion, consisted of Frederick Batchelor, E. Bertran, Edward Callahan (Sgt.), Isaac Callahan, Neeley Dobson, Manuel Espinosa, Longe Guerra, James M. Harbin, Edward Malloy, Alexander Martineau, Joseph Perdue (Orderly Sgt.), Francisco Rolan or Roland, John Roland, Isaac Slover, Thomas Smith, Lewis A. (Antoine?) Valois, George Watter, Michael White (Miguel Blanco), Benjamin D. Wilson (1st Lt. Comdg. Co.).  ("Rosters of California Volunteers in the Service of the United States, 1846-1847," by Fred B. Rogers, in <HI REND="italics">Publication for 1950</HI>
080.sgm:<P>As soon as I got relieved I went to Wilson and Isaac Williams and suggested that we should build two little forts with joists of which there were a quantity there, so that we could sweep the enemy from all sides at which they could approach the house where we were.  My advice was not heeded, as they said that the Californians would not come near us.</p><P>Next morning got up, and one fellow went on top of the house.  His name Isaac Batchelder, (surnamed the <HI REND="italics">Picayune</HI>
080.sgm: because he was short).  He sang out to me, and said, "Good God--what a quantity of horses are there!"  I told him to lookout sharp, and he would see men on top of them.  A Frenchman named Anton, the cook, said, "I must hurry up and make some coffee" and I told him, "Yes, hurry up, or else you'll get chocolate."  We did get chocolate, sure.  I had hardly got the words out of my mouth, when I saw the whole force of California cavalrymen rush to the house and the roof was very soon on fire--it was made of wood and asphaltum.</p><P>Williams begged me to go on the roof and ask the Californians to let us off, but as I was angry with him for not heeding my advice of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:night before, and charging me with cowardice, I refused, and told him to go himself.  Williams was frightened out of his wits.</p><P>He was a traitor to us.  He wrote a letter to the Californian commander encamped at the place now called Bella Union, which I saw him deliver to Felix Gallardo, saying that if his forces did not come up quick, they would not be able to take us, for Stuttering Alick (whose name was Smith) was out at San Jacinto and would come to our rescue the next day.  I know this to be a fact for Captain Segura some days afterwards told me of it and showed me Williams' letter.<ANCHOR ID="n12-23">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-23"><P>Don Benito Wilson wrote a letter to Gillespie from the Chino Rancho apprising the Lieutenant of the fact that it would be impossible for him to come to his assistance in the pueblo due to lack of ammunition.  This letter was given to Felix Gallardo to deliver, but Williams told the messenger to deliver it to General Flores, instead, as a token of his (Williams') loyalty to the Californians.  Wilson, <HI REND="italics">Observations of Early Days</HI>
080.sgm:, Historical Society of Southern California Annual Publication, 1934.</p><P>The chronology of this period is as follows:  <HI REND="italics">August 13, 1846</HI>
080.sgm:, Fremont and Stockton took Los Angeles without opposition; <HI REND="italics">early September</HI>
080.sgm:, Captain Gillespie and some 50 men were left to hold Los Angeles; <HI REND="italics">September 23</HI>
080.sgm: there was an outbreak by the Californians in Los Angeles; <HI REND="italics">September 26</HI>
080.sgm: was the Battle of Chino, described by White, with the American force surrendering to the Californians; <HI REND="italics">September 30</HI>
080.sgm: was an exchange of prisoners and Gillespie forced to withdraw to San Pedro; <HI REND="italics">October 9</HI>
080.sgm:, the attempt to retake Los Angeles fails at the Battle of Dominguez; <HI REND="italics">December 6</HI>
080.sgm:, Kearny and his men fight the Californians at Battle of San Pasqual; <HI REND="italics">January 8 and 9</HI>
080.sgm:, Americans approaching from San Diego fight battles of San Gabriel and La Mesa, the last battles on California soil; <HI REND="italics">January 13, 1847</HI>
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080.sgm:<P>Williams took a very long reed and hung on it something that looked like a piece of a shirt, and exhibited it in the enclosed plaza so that the Californians could see it above the roof (it was a square of about half an acre surrounded by buildings).  After some palavering, Wilson, who acted for us, received a promise that we should be treated as prisoners of war if we would surrender.  Previous to that there had been a good deal of firing from both sides.  Our fire killed Carlos Ballesteros, and wounded a New Mexican.  On our side we had Callahan (in the prairie the day before) and Godey wounded, besides William Skene who was hit by a ball in his breeches' pocket where he had a box of caps, which bursted and burnt into both his thighs and into his privates.  The poor man suffered horribly.</p><P>We accepted the terms offered us and surrendered.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<P>The Californians took us over to the soap works--about 300 yards from the house.  On going over I saw one of the Mexican officers brandishing his sword and heard him say that they must look upon us with mercy.</p><P>Loring asked me what the Californians were talking about and what they were going to do with us.  I answered that they were going to make soap of us.  Loring did not like the joke, for he had seen the brandishing of the sword and had not understood the words. Indeed, he believed that they were going to kill us all.</p><P>We were searched, and the same evening started on the march for the headquarters of the California forces.  I had been requested by Wilson to say that we had taken the Chino by force so as to save Williams from being carried off as a prisoner, and I complied.  Williams was left at home with his children.</p><P>About one mile or two from the Chino on the march we were in the utmost danger of being killed.  The Californians and Mexicans were exasperated because of the death of Ballesteros and had come to the conclusion to shoot us all.  Ramon Carrillo saved our lives.  Mr. Wilson has always said that we owed our lives to Se&acute;rvulo Varela, but I know that he and Diego <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:Sepu&acute;lveda were in cahoots and would have sent us to the other world if it had not been for Ramon Carrillo.  I saw with my own eyes when Carrillo on the road went and struck several whacks on Varela's back with the flat of his sword, saying at the same time, "I'll let you know that they are prisoners of mine, and you can do nothing with them.  They say that I am an assassin" (he referred to the charges preferred against him of having murdered some Americans in the Sonoma region)<ANCHOR ID="n12-24">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: "I will prove to the world that I am not one."  Diego Sepu&acute;lveda and Se&acute;rvulo Varela were always after that and had been before very good friends of mine; but the facts of the case are just as I have stated.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-24">This incident occurred during the Bear Flag Revolt at Sonoma.  On June 18th or 19th, 1846, two men, Cowie and Palmer, were sent by William Ide to secure a keg of powder from the Fitch Rancho on the Russian River.  Discarding all precaution these men took the main road and were captured by Ramon Carrillo and Juan Padilla, by whom they were supposed to have been killed.  (Giffen)</NOTE>
080.sgm:<P>One or two days later in the Paredon Blanco three or four of us were exchanged.  I was exchanged for Andres Pico, who had been till then a prisoner in the hands of Capt. Gillespie.</p><P>Isaac Batchelder, Edw. Cottrell, and a half breed Cherokee were also exchanged for other Californians in Gillespie's hands.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<P>The whole trouble and revolt of the Californians arose from the despotic measures of Capt. Gillespie, who seemed to take a special pleasure in humiliating the most respectable among the Californians and reducing the people to the condition of a conquered race.  His measures were unwarrantable, and led to all the trouble and bloodshed that ensued.  Had a sensible officer been left in command at Los Angeles instead of him, the Californians would have continued to acquiesce to the occupation of their country by the Americans at least until something favorable to Mexico had resulted from the campaign there.</p></DIV>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IMPRISONMENT</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>AFTER BEING exchanged, I was told by Gillespie I might come home or go to San Diego.  I replied that I would not go to San Diego.<ANCHOR ID="n13-25">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: I came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:home and the Mexican authorities reduced me to prison again.  I acknowledge that I was in a very bad position for I was a Mexican citizen caught with arms in my hands fighting against Mexico, and the authorities might have shot me had they chosen to do so, and I would have deserved it, at least for my folly in having listened to Williams.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-25">According to Gillespie, White deserted, apparently during Gillespie's withdrawal from Los Angeles to San Pedro.  The following is "List of Prisoners received in exchange" by Gillespie, September 30, 1846.  Most, if not all of these men were captured at Chino Ranch:  (1) Lemuel Carpenter; (2) Evan. Callahan; (3) Isaac Slover; (4) Thomas Smith; (5) Thomas Canwell; (6) John Bapista [probably Juan Bautista Mutrel]; (7) Michael White, deserted on the march; (8) N. Lorring; (9) Joseph Perdue (wounded); (10) Charles Johnson; (11) Francisco Roland; (12) J. Dobson.  ( <HI REND="italics">Gillespie Papers</HI>
080.sgm:<P>Myself and other prisoners were held in durance at Los Angeles till a few days before the battle of San Gabriel.  We were not particularly well treated during our imprisonment.  All that was allowed in was a little food, nothing else, not even a blanket to lie on.  My own blanket had been taken by the Californians at the Chino.</p><P>Whilst I was in the prison (which was where the Bella Union now is joining the Arcadia block) we got our food from Luis Arenas, who was afterwards paid for it.  None of us (except Batchelder) were allowed to go out.  Batchelder Picayune was a sort of clown, who could perform all sorts of antics and make queer remarks, which caused the Californian guard to laugh.  In this way he had their good will, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:he was allowed to go out, bring in liquor, etc., of course, always accompanied by a soldier.  For this he used to tell me that he had never been so much waited on, and taken care of since he was a child.</p><P>During our imprisonment we were at one time in peril of being sent to Mexico.  The military authorities had already prepared the handcuffs to put on our wrists.  They wanted Andres Pico to take us in, but he refused, saying that if we were sent to Mexico, Commodore Stockton and other American authorities would send them to Cape Horn.  Mr. Workman broke up the scheme in conjuction with Jose&acute; Antonio Carrillo, Ignacio Palomares and Ricardo Ve&acute;jar.  At the time we were confined in the Chino ranch having the whole of it for our jail.</p><P>One morning I was walking with William Cottrell when I saw some Mexicans ride up to the Chino house.  I told Cottrell, "We are prisoners again."  Said he, "You are a witch."  I replied, "Witch or no witch, you will see that we are prisoners."</p><P>As soon as we sat down to get our breakfasts we saw two guards, one on each side of the door.  That night they put us all on horseback, and brought us away up here, and put us in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>RETURN HOME</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>NEXT MORNING Cottrell and myself went on top of the hills, and I told him he might go back if he wanted to, for I was going to Los Angeles, and would contrive to get in.  Los Angeles had been taken the day before by Commodore Stockton's forces and my fears were that the Mexicans might catch me and carry me off to Sonora or kill me on the road.</p><P>We started together, and that night just before the day broke were at the Ranchito then belonging to an uncle of my wife's (Juan Perez), now to Pio Pico.<ANCHOR ID="n14-26">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-26">Between 1850 and 1852 Pio Pico built an adobe home, "El Ranchito."  now the Pio Pico State Monument, near Whittier.</NOTE>
080.sgm:<P>After daylight I went to the shanty.  The old man came out and said, "In the name of God, where have you come from?"  I told him from Chino and was bound to Los Angeles.  He said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:if I was seen by the Mexicans they would kill me.  My intention was to hide in the mustard weed all day and get in at night.</p><P>We got plenty to eat, and were stowed under the bed the wholeday.</p><P>In the evening after it was dark we left for Los Angeles.  My wife's uncle sent a guide with us till we got over the river.  We went on and had fun with him.  Every time I heard a band of horses I would tell Cottrell they were horsemen after us and to lay down flat on his belly, and I would do so just for deviltry.  He was in a constant dread of being taken.  In fact, several Mexicans had been to the Uncle's house inquiring if he had seen any Yankees, and he would answer, "No, go home to your affairs; Stockton passed here yesterday and did not hurt me or mine--did not even take a <HI REND="italics">borrega [a small yearling lamb].</HI>
080.sgm:</p><P>We got into Los Angeles sometime before daylight, went to Lemuel Carpenter's house and got something to eat.  About 10 or 11 A.M. went to Headquarters of Commodore Stockton and Gen. Kearny.  He asked me if I had been set at liberty, and I said, "No, I have taken French liberty; if the cage door is left open, the bird will fly away."  He said he did not blame me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:and advised me to go to my quarters.  I told him I was going home.  He asked me if I was not afraid of being killed on the road, and I replied that home I would go anyhow.</p><P>As I was near the Rosa de Castilla I saw about a dozen Mexicans, all armed and mounted.  I was on foot.  I heard them cry out, "There goes a Yankee, let's go and kill him."  They came rushing toward me, when one of them burst out, "That's my cousin, you must not touch him."  That was the <HI REND="italics">huero</HI>
080.sgm: [blonde] Higuera.  He was in some way a relative of my mother in law.</p><P>He asked me if Stockton would not kill them if they went into town.  "Kill the devil," I said, "you are not a deer.  You may go in and deliver your arms or go and put them away, and go to your work, and no one will molest you."  He asked me two or three times if I was sure of that, and I answered him in the affirmative.  He said he would go home to his work and be done with war.  I told him his country was taken and he had nothing to do but to go home and keep quiet, and no one would interfere with him.  They left me and I went home without any mishap.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<P>clothing in the house.  Not a thing was left, not even corn or anything else to eat.  A day or two later I came over to Workman's.  I did not want to say that I had nothing to eat, but he divined it, and asked if I had brought a sack.  I said yes and he gave me a sack of flour, and told me to send my ox cart the next day and he would load it for me.  I did so, and got a good supply of grain and other things.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EULALIA PEREZ</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>AS MY mother in law, Eulalia Perez, first widow of Miguel Antonio Guillen, and next of Juan Marine&acute;, may be said to be a historical character,<ANCHOR ID="n15-27">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: owing to her extraordinary age, and the services herself, husbands, son and others of her family, rendered towards the foundation and development of this California--and as the records of Loreto, Lower California, where she was born and first married, and by which the dates of her birth and marriage might be established were destroyed by privateers from Chili somewhere about 1817, I desire to state all I have heard from herself and others about her age &amp;c.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-27">Some six days before interviewing Michael White, Thomas Savage took down some of the recollections of White's aged mother-in-law, the famous Eulalia Perez.  These recollections were translated by Nellie Van de Grift Sanchez as "Keeper of the Keys" and published in <HI REND="italics">Touring Topics</HI>
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080.sgm:<P>She told me a great many times when she was a great deal younger and entirely in her right mind that when the San Vicente mission in the frontier of Lower California was founded, her husband Miguel Antonio Guillen, then a Sergt. came in command of the military force, left her in Loreto with three children born and one in the womb.  Those children were Petra, the eldest, Isidoro, and Domingo.  The one in the womb was not christened because the mother accidentally smothered it soon after its birth.  Domingo was a boy of about 9 to 11 years old when the whole family came to this California and he accompanied them but was taken sick on the way, and died and was buried in the mission of San Fernando of Lower California.</p><P>Sergt. Guillen, after founding San Vicente [1780], remained there 4 years, and then went back to Loreto, after that he came as sergt. in the expedition that came with the priests in 1769 to found San Diego.  Eulalia and the family came with him.  (There may be some doubt about this last assertion.  It is possible that he came with the expedition, went back, and at a later [date], brought his family.)</p><P>The above information was also given me by Eulalia's nephew, Macedonio Gonzalez, a son <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:of her sister Teresa (Eulalia Perez had several sisters and 2 brothers--Teresa, Petra, Juana and Josefa, Bernardo and Leon).  Macedonio Gonzalez was <HI REND="italics">alferez</HI>
080.sgm: of the frontier company.  He first told me the facts about 1834, he was then upwards of 85 years of age, but very stout and hearty, and a great Indian fighter.  This Macedonio entered the military service when he was a boy, taken and made a recruit of when he was about 12 or 14 years old, and assured me that he remembered the departure of the expedition to found San Diego.  He also told me that a cousin of his (whose 1st name I have forgotten) of the surname of Cota, a son of another sister of Eulalia's embarked on the vessel called the <HI REND="italics">San Jose&acute;</HI>
080.sgm:, one of the three which left Loreto to found San Diego, and was never heard of again.  The <HI REND="italics">San Jose&acute;</HI>
080.sgm: must have foundered at sea with all her crew and passengers.  I presume that she was blown off to Sandwich Islands and wrecked.</p><P>Eulalia's father was named Diego Perez, and her mother Lucia Valenzuela (Eulalia said her mother's name was Antonia Rosalia Cota), he was the commander or patron of a small Govt. vessel in Loreto, engaged in carrying despatches etc. from there to ports on the Mexican coast as far as Guaimas.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<P>I have been myself in the orchard that was planted by Capita&acute;n Perez, as he was called, and have drawn water from its well several years before I knew that such a woman as Eulalia Perez lived in the world; have also eaten figs from its trees.  That was in 1820 or 1821.  I remember it was one year after I took the schooner <HI REND="italics">Lancaster</HI>
080.sgm: at San Blas.</p><P>When I married her daughter Maria del Rosario Guillen on 22 November 1831, Eulalia was 96 years or upwards as well as I could judge.<ANCHOR ID="n15-28">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: She was for all that very strong, and walked as straight as a dart, was sprightly and intelligent, and always at work.  She was the <HI REND="italics">llavera</HI>
080.sgm: of the San Gabriel Mission, under Father Jose&acute; Sanchez, who was as good a man as ever God put the breath of life in.  My wife at the time of my marriage was 17 years old, born 1st October 1814 at San Gabriel Mission.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-28">white's chronology would have Eulalia Perez giving birth to Maria del Rosario at the age of 79.  Bancroft believed that Eulalia Perez was closer to 108 than 140 at her death in 1878.</NOTE>
080.sgm:<P>Macedonio Gonzalez was a very truthful man, as far as I was able to judge him.  He served (according to his own statement to me) 18 years under the Spanish flag.  I know when I was in the Gulf of California in 1817, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:Mexican flag waved over every place I was at, including Loreto.  In 1820 the Mexicans removed from Loreto to La Paz all the archives and other valuables and the place was discontinued as a military post or port of entry.  Gonzalez died in 1862 or 1863 at the Estudillo's ranch, San Jacinto (San Diego County).<ANCHOR ID="n15-29">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: Therefore he must have been at the time of his death 105 or 107 years old.<ANCHOR ID="n15-30">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-29">Now Riverside County.</NOTE>
080.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-30">Bancroft gives his age as "over 70."</NOTE>
080.sgm:<P>He told me a dozen times that when he and a cousin of his named Aniceto Morillo came to San Vicente to serve in the <HI REND="italics">escolta</HI>
080.sgm:, Francisco Maria Ruiz, who was in after years Comandante of San Diego, was commanding on the frontier.  There were a ram and a goat there which began to fight.  Ruiz saw them, and hallooed to Macedonio to come, saying:  <HI REND="italics">"Mata a esos hijos de puta.  Aqui no hay mas hombre que yo"</HI>
080.sgm: ["Kill these----.  There are to be no other men here than myself"].  Ruiz was a native of old Spain, lived till some time later, 1837 and 1842; was a perfect despot; and the soldierscalled him a <HI REND="italics">loco</HI>
080.sgm: [a lunatic].</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<P>Eulalia Perez was the midwife that attended Pio Pico's mother when he was born, and afterwards weaned him.</p><P>Isidoro Guillen, my brother in law, died in La Purisima in 1864 of about 107 years of age.  Governor Pico told me a dozen times that when he was a little bit of a boy, Isidoro Guillen was a full grown man, but his father made him attend school at San Diego that he might learn to read; that Isidoro smoked and so did the master.  The master tried to take the segar away from Isidoro and the latter whipped him.</p><P>I remember a conversation I had with Governor Pico some years since, about Isidoro's age at the time of his death.  He said that he must have been long ways past 90.  I remarked that I thought he was a man of 86 or 87, when Pico answered <HI REND="italics">"y mas de 96 o 97"</HI>
080.sgm: [and more than 96 or 97].</p><P>I have said that Isidoro Guillen was born in Loreto and came to San Diego when about 12 years old.  He told me that he remembered the springs on the road, where good or bad water was obtained, and many other incidents of the journey, that he rode his own horse and drove two cows and a bull, 2 mares and a stud that the Govt. had given his father.  He stood 6 ft. 2 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:in his stockings, was well made, and a noble looking, as well as a brave and excellent man, very quiet in his demeanor.  His sister Petra Guillen was his mother's first child and 1 year and 9 months older than he.  She died in Los Angeles to the best of my recollection in 1844.  She was the wife of Santiago Rubio, who had been a soldier of the San Diego company, but I knew him when he was <HI REND="italics">mayordomo</HI>
080.sgm: of one of the ranches of the San Gabriel mission, called La Bolsa.</p><P>Now I remember that Eulalia Perez told me many years ago that she was married in the year that the Jesuits were sent away from Lower California, which I think was in 1750; that would make her about 34 years old at the time of the foundation of San Diego, and 142 years at the present time.  Both Macedonio Gonzalez and Isidoro Guillen repeatedly told me that Eulalia Perez came to San Diego at the time of its foundation and she has many times said that there were at the time no houses at all, but mere <HI REND="italics">enramadas</HI>
080.sgm: or what we would call booths.</p><P>Anyone that sees her will immediately perceive that she is a very ancient woman, and yet her mind at times is quite bright, and she can yet walk leaning on some one's arms and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:resting occasionally on the way from my house to that of my son-in-law, Mr. Eslope, which is at least 500 yards distant.  She gets up and walks about the house without assistance, and it is astonishing how she can remember events that occurred in her early years, and the songs and verses that were used at dances &amp;c.</p><P>I remember that 2 years ago I went a fishing over at Santa Catalina<ANCHOR ID="n15-31">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: opposite San Pedro and brought plenty of fish.  My mother-in-law looked at the fish and asked me why I had now brought <HI REND="italics">bagre</HI>
080.sgm: (mullet), <HI REND="italics">pegigallo</HI>
080.sgm: (a big fish having a crest on the head like a rooster.  When swimming it stands up, just like the comb of a rooster--an awful gormandizer of small fish).  She then told me that her father used to catch those fish with a net, selected the best for the family, the soldiers of Loreto would take as many as they wanted and the rest were hove again into the sea.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-31">Michael White is said to have had a flock of 30 sheep at White's Landing, Catalina Island, in 1865.  ( <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Sunday Illustrated Magazine</HI>
080.sgm:<P>Last year I was assured that another woman still older than Eulalia was still living about 12 miles inland of San Jose&acute; [Lower California].  When I was there in 1817 her son was as old as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:I am now, and he had children grown up and married, with children of their own.  What makes me remember her well is that she took a pitahaya thorn out of my left eye with her tongue.  I felt as if she had taken my eye out.  I had had the thorn in the eye about a couple of days and was suffering terribly.  Her son Ignacio Marquez sent me to her, assuring me that she would cure me, and she did.  She was setting on a hide, made me sit by her, rinsed her mouth with fresh water, put my head on her lap, and her tongue right into my eye, and took out the thorn and spit it out.  Strange as it may appear I have forgotten her name, but I certainly remember gratefully the great service she rendered me.</p><P>I believe I have had thirteen [children] of whom 9 are living.<ANCHOR ID="n15-32">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-32">This apparently in answer to a question as to the number of his children.  Eight children were living in 1907: Michael and James; Jennie (Mrs. Andre Courtney), Sarah (Mrs. Ygnacio Alvarado), Frances (Mrs. Joseph Heslop of Pasadena), Alvira (Mrs. Louis Marshall), Jane (Mrs. Luis Capevielle), Esther (Mrs. Castillion).  (Guinn, J. M., <HI REND="italics">A History of California and an Extended History of its Southern Coast Counties</HI>
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080.sgm:<P>Petra Guillen, my wife's eldest sister had a daughter (yet living) named Antonia Rubio, who is a good deal older than my wife, no less than 4 or 5 years.</p></DIV>
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080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GOLD RUSH</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>WHEN THE discovery of the gold placers I started for Mokelumne, was taken sick there and did nothing.  Mounted my horse and with only about 200$ worth of gold, that I got for some horses which I had sold, came away.  Suffered terribly on the way, and finally reached the house of my brother in law, Isidoro Guillen, in Santa Clara.  On my way I was the recipient of much kindness from Mrs. Robert Livermore,<ANCHOR ID="n16-33">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: the wife of him after whom the town of Livermore was named.  She was a native of California of the Sanchez family of San Jose&acute;.  I believe she was a daughter of the old <HI REND="italics">Alfe&acute;rez</HI>
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080.sgm:[Ensign, or Second Lieutenant] Jose&acute; Sanchez.  She would receive no pay, but I left her, quite against her will, one little chunk of gold weighing 5 1/2 ounces that I had picked up on the Stanislaus.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-33">This was Josefa Higuera, wife of Robert Livermore who owned the Pozitos Rancho, now Livermore Valley--and the Canada de Los Vaqueros on the road from San Jose to Sacramento.  It was undoubtedly at the latter place that White received Mrs. Livermore's care.  The term Santa Clara at that time had a wider meaning than the immediate Mission community of that name.  (Giffen.)</NOTE>
080.sgm:<P>After recuperating my health at Santa Clara, went back to Stanislaus to Murphy's diggings.  I worked there for myself some three weeks and dug out nearly 2000$.  The diggings were very rich.  Some days I would get out 8 and 9 ounces.  One day I found a chunk weighing 7 1/2 ounces.  That day got over one pound of gold.</p><P>There was a cooper that had been paid off from the U.S. sloop of war <HI REND="italics">St. Mary's</HI>
080.sgm:.  His name was Edward.  He had a tent and invited me to stay with him, each one cooking his own food, and working for himself.  I generally got up very early, cooked my own and his breakfast, went to my work, and sometime after he would come to work alongside of me.  He was a very good man.</p><P>One morning I went to my work and saw several Spaniards on the bank watching if I was picking up any gold.  I did not give out to them that I understood Spanish, and did not want to speak to Ned, for the reason that I had my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:mouth full of gold.  I used to put all the gold I picked up in a day into a small soda can, but not wishing to make any rattling, whenever I picked up a <HI REND="italics">chispa</HI>
080.sgm: [small particle] I would put it in my mouth.  Most of the gold was of the size and form of musk melon seed.  It was very dangerous to let any one see what was picked up.  It was that morning I got the 7 1/2 ounce piece.  Ned spoke and said, "Chummy, how are you getting along?"  I returned no answer, then he picked up and threw at me what he thought was dirt.  It struck me on the back.  The dirt fell off and I found it contained a piece of gold of 2 1/2 ounces.  The Spaniards went away and I showed Ned what I had, and he said, "Damn you, you always have good luck.  I can get no luck at all."  I answered him, "How can you have any luck if you heave it away?"  He said that he had not hove away anything, and then I showed him the piece of gold he had thrown at me.  He looked at it, and pronounced it only a piece of rock.  I then put it in my pocket.  He could not work for some time and kept growling, and I laughing at him.  Finally, he wanted me to let him see it again.  We had more chaffing.  At last I gave it to him with the advice never to heave gold again at my head, for if he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:did I would keep it.  He was highly pleased and went to work like a negro.  Next he begged me to let him have the 7 1/2 ounce piece and I let him have it for a like amount in fine gold.  I would have done anything for that man and I think he would have done the same for me.  A good natured fellow from Massachusetts, about 6 feet in height, raw boned.  There was no vulgar way about him, and it was evident that he had been well brought up by his parents, or whoever had the care of him in early life.</p><P>A few days after I left him there with an Irishman that I had hired to wash the dirt, for I had never thought of washing any dirt myself.  All the gold I got was picked in crevices of the bed rock.</p><P>I came down to San Francisco one or two days before Christmas, 1848.  Came away in Feb. 1849.  It was snowing and raining and blowing nearly the whole time I was there.  I had taken passage on a Colombian Brig to San Pedro, and every morning that we lied in San Francisco, we had to clear the decks of snow in the morning.  Oakland was as white as a sheet.</p><P>Stayed at home till the middle of April, and then started to go back to the same diggings.  When I got to Stockton met my Irishman and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:asked him about Ned, and he told me that Ned got out 25 pounds of gold out of the dirt I had hove out, and as I couldn't wash out any dirt for want of water, when the rains came on, he washed, got the gold and left for home.  I asked the Irishman if Ned had paid him, and he said <HI REND="italics">yes</HI>
080.sgm:.</p><P>I went on the Mokelumne hill again.  There I got a little over 5000$ in gold in about three weeks, and took the gold to Stockton, where I deposited it with William Stockton.  He was a New York rough who had belonged to Col. Stevenson's Regiment.<ANCHOR ID="n16-34">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: Went back to work on the Calaveras, got about 3000$ more, and the weather being insufferably hot, I came down again and as far as San Francisco.  Went to Stockton and couldn't get my money.  Stockton had spent it.  He had number of lots there and advised me to go and sue him and get a writ of attachment of the lots.  I applied for the writ and the Judge wouldn't give it to me.  The Judge wanted to bring me in as a common of Stockton's.  I refused to submit to it as I was not such, but a mere depositor, which Stockton acknowledged, saying he had spent the money, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:thinking he could have the amount before I should call for it.  I employed Lawyer Fair (the husband of the woman that a few years ago killed Crittenden in San Francisco) to recover the money for me.  The agreement was that in case he recovered the whole, his fee was to be 800$.  I was left without anything.  In the morning I was assured I should get my money in the evening, and in the evening that I would get it in the morning, and I never got it because Mr. Fair recovered the money and made away with it.  I got a letter from him that he had collected the money and was sorry that he had spent it and possessed nothing to replace it with.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-34">William B. Stockton, a member of Co. F, New York Volunteers, came to California in 1847.</NOTE>
080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WAGON ROUTE</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>A MAN who owed me 600$ brought them from the mines to me at Stockton.  With that money I bought a wagon and 2 mules, with harness for 4 mules.  After giving the mules some rest at French camp came down to Santa Clara and got from my brother in law, Isidoro Guillen, some 3000$ that I had left with him and went to San Jose&acute; where there was an auction of dry goods, and bought enough goods for 1000$ as loaded my wagon chock full--then I hitched on my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:two mules, and two more that I had procured since, put a boy on one of the leaders and I began to drive.  This was an entirely new thing to me for I had never driven even one mule.  We were on the road 20 days to San Gabriel.  That was the first wagon that ever was seen in San Gabriel, and every one thought it was an excellent thing.  It had a painted tent on it.  The wagon was an old affair that had come across the prairies from the other side of the Rocky Mountains.  I managed to capsize it three or four times on the road.  When we got to Soledad two English speaking men who said they were Americans, came to me and asked where I was going.  I answered that I was coming down, and they said they were also coming down to Santa Barbara.  I replied that they could travel much faster than I.  They were on good horses and I didn't know how they got them.  They were rough, suspicious looking men, and I was afraid of them.  The roads were at the time full of robbers and murderers.  The Reed family had been murdered but a short time before by some tramps in the Mission of San Miguel.</p><P>I stopped to get dinner at La Soledad and then went on to the rancho Bernadal.  There was an adobe house there.  The two fellows came out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:to me again.  I had a case of brandy in the wagon, and said to myself that I must manage to find out what those fellows were.  I got a case bottleful and gave them to drink.  In two minutes they were fast asleep and snoring, but I believed they were only feigning sleep, and kept a sharp watch.  I did not sleep a wink that night.  In the morning cooked breakfast, invited the fellows to partake of it and gave them another dram and told them I was going only as far as the next ranch where I intended stopping 3 or 4 days to rest my mules.  Sometimes a man is more scared than hurt and such was my case.  I stopped at that ranch 24 hours, thinking that they would be far off by the time I started, but I overtook them about a mile before reaching San Miguel.  I was not then afraid of them, as the road was full of emigrants from the East, and I would meet some every hour or so.</p><P>I was pestered on the road by many to tell where the best places for digging were, and I invariably answered, "Where you find the gold, Sir."  It was the best answer I could give them, adding that I might find a place that was very rich, and another come and work alongside of me and find no gold, and then he would curse me if I had induced him to come there.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<P>Finally got down as far down as Santa Rosa ranch, close by Santa Inez mission.  The old Sergeant that owned the place got angry with me because I did not call him Uncle.  He was a son of Eulalia's sister.  He welcomed me and my servant boys, but would not allow the two fellows that had attached themselves to me to go into the house.  " <HI REND="italics">Tienen mala cara tus amigos, Sobrino, tienen mala cara</HI>
080.sgm: " [your friends have evil countenances, Nephew], said the old Sergeant.  I assured him they were no friends of mine, but had not been able to get rid of them.  Started from there two days after, and went on top of the mountains and camped in the night.  The two fellows still stuck to me, for they had nothing to live on but what I gave or procured for them.</p><P>Next day got to the mouth of the Gaviota and camped there.  Next day at about 3 P.M. got to the Arroyo Hondo ranch of the Ortegas, from there to the can&tilde;on of the Ortega ranch where the trail goes over the mountain.  There one of the two men lost his horse.  I told them I would go very slowly that they might overtake me, but as soon as I lost sight of them, I put whip to the mules, and the road being pretty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>BANDITS</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>I STAYED HOME, dealt in cattle and other things, when in 1851 (or 1852) I was going down from my house to the mission, some 2 1/2 miles, I saw three young men sitting under an oak tree playing cards.  All were acquaintances of mine.  I scolded them and called them lazy rascals, and why they didn't go to work.  Next day I heard that Sheriff Barton<ANCHOR ID="n18-35">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: had been shot near San Juan Capistrano by desperadoes, Flores and his party.  I believe they were called the <HI REND="italics">Manilas</HI>
080.sgm:.  I had a good deal of regard for Barton and regretted his death, but could do nothing but regret.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-35">Actually Sheriff Barton was killed in 1857.  See Newmark, <HI REND="italics">Sixty Years in Southern California</HI>
080.sgm:<P>A few days afterwards I was going to my mill which I had just finished.  There were some oak trees betwixt my house and the mill, and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:thought I would chop them down and make firewood of them.  As I was at work cutting down a tree Pancho Daniel (the Lieutenant of Murrieta) rode past me with his gun pointed towards me.  I said, "Halloo, Mace, what is up?"  I mistook Daniel for the Doctor.  No answer was returned me.  A few moments later my son Joseph, who was murdered some years after in El Monte, came to me, and said, "Father, the man that just passed here is a robber.  Go and get your gun.  I could have killed him easily, but as you have told me never to shoot at anybody, I did not do it."  I went for my gun and went to the swamp where the people that were hunting Daniel were.  The party after him were Stockton, Osborne, the three King boys, Darcy and several others.  I told them if they would promise me not to kill the man on my premises, I would catch him.  My idea was to take him alive, so as to ascertain from him who were his associates.  They promised me.  I set fire to the swamp, and I knew there was a hole in the swamp where he could hide himself.  I went into the swamp, Stockton following me, swinging his gun one side and the other right at my back.  He was more frightened than a little.  I was afraid he would shoot.  I told him to go out.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:Just at this I heard a pistol shot, and one of the King boys said `Here he is" and banged again, "Here he is," and let go again.  I ran towards King and told him to let the man [live?], for he was violating the agreement.  The man was already flat on his back in the last gasp.  All came rushing and wanted to whip the boy, but I told them that was useless, as the man was dead.  Then I saw them take from the body a handful of gold coin (maybe 200$) and James Barton's masonic ring, which I knew at once.  The man had it on his finger, from which I drew the conclusion that he was one of Barton's murderers.</p><P>They took the body on a mule to the mission, and on arriving there Dr. Osborne cut off his head.  Then he wanted the people of El Monte to stick the head upon a pole, but they got mad with him to bury the head with the body.<ANCHOR ID="n18-36">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-36">This part of White's narrative does not coincide with other stories of the same happening.  In Major Horace Bell's account in <HI REND="italics">On the Old West Coast</HI>
080.sgm:, he relates the incident and says that the man killed was Mexican Joe, a young fellow employed by Uncle Billie Rubottom of El Monte.  Rubottom had sent the boy on an errand to Benito Wilson's, which was not far from White's place.  On the way he was ambushed by a group of men who were hunting Barton's murderers.  The body was brought to San Gabriel and decapitated by Doctor Osborne, who then took the head to Los Angeles.  A group of Rubottom's friends retrieved the head and it was interred with the body.  According to Judge Hayes' <HI REND="italics">Notes</HI>
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080.sgm:<P>A few days after that they were still hunting for Barton's murderers, and Crabb's party.<ANCHOR ID="n18-37">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm: (which were all afterwards killed at Caborga in Sonora, except one boy who was released on account of his tender age), came to the mission drunk as fools and arrested all the Spanish young men, among them one that I had brought up in my house named Felipe Lo&acute;pez.  I went down after him and as I got there I found Flint and Joe Slaughter and several others in the old guard house.  They were keeping away from that party.  They called and told me not to go among that party for they would surely murder me.  I had two good pistols, well loaded, on my person.  I was determined to have the boy if it cost me my life.  On arriving at their camp, saw the boy sitting down and crying.  Osborne came out and asked me what I wanted.  I answered that I wanted that boy.  A man that was standing sentry said, "What are you talking about?"  "Just what you hear," I replied.  "I want that boy and I will have him."  When he saw me so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:determined, he concluded to let me have the boy, and I took him away.  In the mean time, whilst I was demanding the boy, his older brother Pedro Lo&acute;pez and two others, Diego Navarro and Juan Valenzuela, were murdered, the very three young men that I scolded some days before when I saw them playing cards under the oak tree.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-37">For an account of this episode see <HI REND="italics">Crabb's Filibustering Expedition into Sonora</HI>
080.sgm:<P>I went over to the guard house where the Slaughters were, and some time in the afternoon there came James Thompson with 7 or 8 men.  Came up to me and said, "Well, old gentleman, so that you have got off 4, eh?" I said, " <HI REND="italics">No</HI>
080.sgm:, only one."  Asked them why the three young men had been killed.  He answered that he didn't know.  Neither did I, except that I was convinced that they were killed because they were Spanish, and their murderers willed it.  It was charged against them after they were dead that they had held conversation with Murrieta and Daniel.  For the same reason they might have murdered me, for once Murrieta came into my house with all his party, and asked for supper, which I provided them.  We did not know the man, and at supper time my wife remarked that <HI REND="italics">Joaquin Murrieta esta&acute; muy bravo con los hueros [Joaquin Murrieta is very ill-tempered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:</p><P>Murrieta's party often divided into two, he remaining at the head of one and the other going under Daniel.</p><P>Same year two Americans leased land from me.  One was called Smith, the other gave his name as Peter Williams.  The lease was on half shares.  I was to supply land, horses, implements, &amp;c.  The were to do the work, raise the crop, and give me one half.  Whilst they were there I had a band of about 100 mares and horses, and they were all lost.  They raised the crop, gave me my share, sold their own, and went off to El Monte.  I had no suspicions about them.  When they got down to El Monte they began to steal horses there, and Joe Cattuck caught Smith in the act, brought him with a rope around his neck to the mission, threw the end of the rope over the limb of a tree.  I went down there, and saw several men (20 or 30) standing by.  A lawyer that was of the number <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:asked me if I thought it was right to hang a man for stealing a horse.  I answered " <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
080.sgm: " that we could always get a horse, but not return to a man his life after he had been deprived of it.  He said if I would speak in behalf of the prisoner, perhaps the men would not hang him.  I pleaded for the poor devil, and they concluded to send him to Los Angeles.  They gave him 39 lashes in Los Angeles and told him if at the expiration of 24 hours he was in the county they would hang him.</p><P>On the road he confessed to the Constable, Frank Baker, that he was the person who had stolen all my horses, but not to say anything to me until after he was gone.  And yet, I was the only one that pleaded for, and saved his life.</p><P>I was left destitute of horses, bought a pony from some Cherokees, swapped off the two mules I bought in Stockton for two American horses, went into town one day with my wagon and the horses.  An American by the name of Gaff came to me, and wanted to buy one of the horses.  Don Pio Pico had offered me 1000$ for him, and I had refused the offer.</p><P>The man kept following me round the town, wanting me to sell him the horse.  At last he bothered me so that I told him if he did not let <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MISSION FATHERS</HEAD>
080.sgm:<P>DURING MY life in California I was intimately acquainted with Fathers Zalvidea, Sanchez of San Diego, and Narciso Duran.</p><P>Zalvidea was a tall, rawboned, stout man, very industrious and intelligent, constantly at his work, spiritual, but also in developing the resources of San Gabriel mission and subsequently of San Juan Capistrano.  He was in the full sense of the word a saint.  He planted fruit trees in the ravines and in many places distant from the missions, for the benefit of the bronco Indians.</p><P>Father Sanchez of San Diego was an uncle of the Father Sanchez of San Gabriel; he told me so himself.</p><P>He was a very old man, doubled up a great deal (in 1832).  He was of a very nice, affable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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080.sgm:manner, very attentive to his duties.  He died in San Diego.</p><P>Father Duran died at Santa Barbara.  He stood 5 feet 8 or maybe a little more, quite stout when I made his acquaintance (in 1829).  He was extremely fond of a joke, and was constantly letting off jokes.  He was a man of fine education and intelligence, amiable to everybody, and constantly attending to his ministerial duties.</p><P>Pomona, Dec. 16, 1877.</p><P>MICHAEL C. WHITE.<ANCHOR ID="n19-38">*</ANCHOR>
080.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-38">White sold his vineyard and orchard to L. H. Titus, and moved to Los Angeles, where he lived with his family till his death, which occurred February 26, 1885.  (Barrows.)  This date, however, cannot be confirmed by Los Angeles death records or newspaper notices.</NOTE>
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080.sgm:<P>LIMITED TO 300 COPIES</p><P>Composed in Intertype Garamond and printed on Delta India</p><P>Vellum by Paul D. Bailey, at Westernlore Press, Los Angeles</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-081</TITLE>
081.sgm:<TITLE>McNeil's travels in 1849, to, through and from the gold regions, in California.  By Samuel McNeil, a shoemaker: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
081.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
081.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
081.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
081.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
081.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
081.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
081.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
081.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>01-019689</LCCN>
081.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
081.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
081.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>Mc'NEILS TRAVELS</P>
081.sgm:<P>In 1849,</P>
081.sgm:<P>TO, THROUGH AND FROM</P>
081.sgm:<P>THE</P>
081.sgm:<P>GOLD REGIONS,</P>
081.sgm:<P>IN CALIFORNIA.</P>
081.sgm:<P>BY SAMUEL McNEIL,</P>
081.sgm:<P>A SHOEMAKER.</P>
081.sgm:<P>COLUMBUS:</P>
081.sgm:<P>SCOTT &amp; BASCOM, PRINTERS.</P>
081.sgm:<P>1850.</P>
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081.sgm:<P>The profusion of narratives of overland journeys to the California gold fields, now easily available, requires some justification for adding another to the list.  It might be argued that the rarity of this little book, of which Wagner-Camp locates only five copies, is reason enough for a new edition.  McNeil's account, however, is far more than just a bibliographical curiosity.  This Lancaster shoemaker was a craggy individualist, and if, as he himself admits, his somewhat rude prose lacks literary polish, the revelation of his own character and his salty comments on the people and scenes which surrounded him more than compensate for any stylistic deficiencies.  Hard-headed, shrewd, and fiercely independent, he made his modest pile, and then had strength of character enough to quit while still winning and head for home.  His little book contains more practical advice for prospective gold-seekers than many more elaborate and optimistic guidebooks to the golden shore, though it is doubtful if many heeded.  That too would have brought a sardonic smile to the lips of the man who had not only "seen the elephant" but carefully measured both trunk and tail.</P>
081.sgm:<P>A. H.</P>
081.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Three hundred copies printed for Frederick W. Beinecke</HI>
081.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">under the direction of the Printing-Office of the</HI>
081.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Yale University Press.  Christmas, 1958</HI>
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081.sgm:</PAGEINFO><HEAD>Mc'NEILS TRAVELS</HEAD>
081.sgm:<P>THIS is emphatically a reading age, and consequently we are surrounded by an enlightened people, whose prominent desire is the increase of knowledge in every form, and, as curiosity is the companion of genius, it may be considered also the Genius Age, in which books are devoured as fast as they can be issued, although steam power presses are trebling the amount of literature formerly produced by the common mode.  Consequently the powers of the author are in unusual demand, and it is no wonder that they are not as frequently forced to starve or beg their bread, as in the days of Goldsmith, Ben Johnson, Chatterton and Homer.  A glorious age, indeed, in which the public is as able to pay for literary productions as to read them--an improving public, whose language is-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Write! write! write!<LB>Though the eye-balls ache with pain,<LB>Write! write! write!<LB>For the world <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
081.sgm: read amain:<LB>Who recks for scribbler's woes,<LB>Though his limbs be bruised and sore,<LB>For into his ears wherever he goes<LB>His readers are thundering` <HI REND="italics">More</HI>
081.sgm:!'"<LB></HI>
081.sgm:<P>I am sure the critics will have mercy on my production when I inform "the public" that I am a shoemaker, not ashamed of the occupation by which I have earned my bread for twenty years, remembering the language of the English poet:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Honor and shame from no condition rise:<LB>Act we'l your part, there all the honor lies!"</HI>
081.sgm:<P>Therefore, I am not as well skilled in writing as a Cooper or a Washington Irving; but, somewhat altering the words of one of the apostles, I can say to the public--oratorical and philosophical language and thoughts I have not, but what I have I freely give unto you.  In shoemaker style, I will bestow my <HI REND="italics">awl</HI>
081.sgm: of literature, feeling that at the <HI REND="italics">last</HI>
081.sgm: they will find I have done my best to amuse and instruct them, while the critics will not <HI REND="italics">strap</HI>
081.sgm:<P>Being a shoemaker, and ambitious to rise somewhat over the bench, it is no wonder that the discovery of gold in California excited my fancy and hopes; believing that the celebrated <HI REND="italics">Golden Age</HI>
081.sgm: had arrived at last, and counting the cost and measuring the difficulties, I joined a respectable company going to the promised land.  The company consisted of Boyle Ewing, a son of the Hon. Thomas Ewing, Secretary of the Interior; James Myers, a capable and honest constable; Rankin, State Attorney; Jesse B. Hart, a shrewd lawyer; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>February 7, 1849, we started by coach, from Lancaster, Ohio, passing through Columbus, to Cincinnati, remaining a week at the latter place, where we obtained the necessary outfit, consisting of two years' provisions and the appropriate weapons of defence.  The articles were sea biscuit, side pork, packed in kegs; six tents, knives, forks, and plates; each man a good rifle, a pair of revolvers, a bowie knife, two blankets, and crucibles, supposing that we would be obliged to melt the ore, not knowing that nature had already melted it to our hands.</P>
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081.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA GOLD SONG.</P>
081.sgm:<P>AIR:--" <HI REND="italics">Auld Lang Syne</HI>
081.sgm:." <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Should Lancaster and friends we love<LB>Be never brought to mind?<LB>No! no! although our bodies rove<LB>Our hearts remain behind!<LB>CHORUS.<LB>For auld lang syne, my friends,<LB>For auld lang syne.<LB>We'll sing a song of kindness yet<LB>For the days of auld lang syne!</HI>
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081.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">We will remember, too, the while,<LB>The partners of our blood,<LB>Whose ev'ry look, whose ev'ry smile,<LB>Shall come with joy imbrued!<LB>CHORUS.--For auld lang syne, &amp;c.<LB>Farewell, farewell ye Fairfield girls,<LB>Whose love cannot be told,--<LB>Your charms are bright, but brighter still<LB>Is California gold!<LB>CHORUS.--For auld lang syne, &amp;c.<LB>Farewell, farewell the jovial crew<LB>Who turn'd the night to day,<LB>Just wait awhile, till we can get<LB>The shining gold to pay!<LB>CHORUS.--For auld lang syne, &amp;c.<LB>Farewell, farewell to Ohio,<LB>A gem of modern times,--<LB>A mighty State, but mightier yet<LB>The California dimes!<LB>CHORUS.--For auld lang syne, &amp;c.<LB>Hurra for California, boys,<LB>No matter what's before--<LB>Our way is mark'd, our minds are bent<LB>To reach the golden shore!<LB>CHORUS.--For auld lang syne, &amp;c.<LB>Hurra! the land of promise lies<LB>Just like old Canaan stood,<LB>To lure us to the tempting prize<LB>O'er many a field and flood!<LB>CHORUS.--For auld lang syne, &amp;c.<LB>Hurra! for California, then,<LB>A glorious song we'll give,--<LB>Awhile to toil, awhile to sweat,<LB>And then like monarchs live!<LB>CHORUS.<LB>For auld lang syne, my boys,<LB>For auld lang syne,<LB>We'll sing a song of kindness yet<LB>For the days of auld lang syne!<LB></HI>
081.sgm:<P>I must relate an occurrence, proving that the western loafers are as expert in strategy as the loafers of the east--yea, even as the celebrated Beau Hickman who flourished at Washington City, whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:exploits in the loafing line would fill a volume.  A little below Red River, at what is called the <HI REND="italics">Cut-off</HI>
081.sgm:<P>About one hundred and sixty miles above New Orleans our California expedition appeared to be brought almost to a close.  About 10 o'clock at night a tremendous storm from the south assailed our steamer, forcing the waves over the hurricane deck, exposing us to two fatal dangers, explosion of the boilers and wreck of the vessel in a spot where escape was impossible.  When the Captain became alarmed we thought it time for us to be somewhat uneasy.  If the storm had been fatal, the loss would have been great in life and property, as the passengers in the cabin and on deck, and the crew, amounted to about one hundred and seventy-five, and we had a very valuable freight on board.  But few had the courage to swear, and many had the wisdom to pray, who afterwards were the foremost in drinking and gambling, like the person in a storm at sea who prayed to the <HI REND="italics">good Devil</HI>
081.sgm: as well as to the <HI REND="italics">good Lord</HI>
081.sgm:<P>As our steamer was detained five hours at Baton Rouge, a French word which means <HI REND="italics">Red Stick</HI>
081.sgm:, we visited the residence of Gen. Zachary Taylor, or rather President Taylor.  Of course, he was absent, but he had left his glorious mark on the place, everything being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>During our passage the Mississippi river was unusually high, in some places running over the levees, and occasionally over the highest of them.  These levees, or artificial embankments, formed to shield the farms from the water, commence somewhere about eight hundred miles above New Orleans, and are erected and repaired during the winter by gangs of slaves.  It is supposed by some authors that the channel of that river is gradually filling from the floating mud and drifting trees conjoining and forming a solid bottom, so that as the descending water is the same in quantity, it must eventually rush over the highest levees that can be formed, and flood all that portion of Louisiana along the river, especially New Orleans.  Such may happen in rivers which have a slow current, but we have the faith to believe that the current of the Mississippi, confined by suitable levees, is strong enough to force more than half of the drift mud and trees into the Gulf of Mexico, by which that portion of Louisiana will be preserved from drowning.  To know that current in all its strength one must voyage on it as I did.  In some places it has swept whole farms from one side and landed them on the other, in the curves of the river.</P>
081.sgm:<P>On the 20th of February we arrived at New Orleans, and sojourned at the Planter's Hotel, conducted by Chandler, who is the most accommodating and most reasonable host I have met in all my travels, impelling me to say with some poet:-- <HI REND="blockindent">"Whoe'er has travel'd this earth's dull round,<LB>Where'er his route has been,<LB>May joy to think he always found<LB>The warmest welcome at an Inn!"<LB></HI>
081.sgm:<P>He not only gives the best that the New Orleans market affords, but he gives his delicacies at the cheapest rates, and by his friendly face and manners makes one feel perfectly at home.</P>
081.sgm:<P>To be a little jovial, we soon found that the inhabitants of New Orleans are the most <HI REND="italics">patriotic</HI>
081.sgm: people in the United States--that is, they have <HI REND="italics">Fourth of July</HI>
081.sgm:<P>Understanding that the steamship "Maria Burt" was about starting for Chagres, we employed one of our comrades, named Stambaugh, to engage passage for us.  Finding that he desired to place some of us in the steerage, while himself and a few select friends wished to occupy the cabin, we altered the plan by bringing all together into the cabin, wishing to bring all on a level both as to comforts and privations.  Perhaps he thought some of us could not bear the cabin expenses--if so, he is excusable; but if any other motive impelled his movements, he is willing to have a burden on his heart which we would not have on ours for a considerable sum.  The steamship <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:"Alabama," belonging to government, was also ready to start for the same point, with Col. Weller and suite, appointed to assist in fixing or running the boundary line between the <HI REND="italics">extended</HI>
081.sgm:<P>Feb. 28th, we started from New Orleans in the "Maria Burt," intending to go to Chagres, but as the reader will shortly see, we were obliged to take a different route.  Shortly after passing the Balize in the Gulf, the vessel sprang a leak, and leaked so much that we returned with difficulty to New Orleans.  As the "Alabama" had departed, we took passage in the steamship "Globe" going to Brazos in Texas.  On that vessel we found Col. Webb's company, consisting of one hundred men, bound for California.  They were fine looking intelligent gentlemen, well calculated to be successful in such an expedition.  Also, Simons' New Orleans company, comprising forty stalwart adventurers, bound for the same promising land, our own company at that time consisting of twenty persons, all inspired by hope and jovialty.  But, in the course of ocean events, this hilarity was doomed to come to an end, when the mountainous billows of the Gulf commenced operating on the susceptible frames of the landsmen, all suffering from sea-sickness except myself and another person, which afflicted them until our vessel arrived at the Brazos.</P>
081.sgm:<P>In this place and at this time, the shoemaker wishes appropriately to offer some remarks respecting the celebrated and mysterious Gulf Stream, which, originating apparently here, flows along the eastern coast of America, and then diverges towards the Mediterranean sea, with a warm current of about four miles per hour.  There are two opinions respecting its origin.  One is, that the Pacific ocean, which is several feet higher than the surface of the Gulf, flows into the latter through a subterranean passage under the northern part of South America, the volcanoes heating the water in its passage, and the descent mentioned giving it its rapidity.  The other opinion is, that the hot winds blowing for months from Africa, forces the waves rapidly into the Gulf, the impetus forming and carrying a stream around the shores of the Gulf, and then northwardly and eastwardly as mentioned.  In my judgement, the former opinion seems most probable.  All may not be aware of the fact, that this stream induced Columbus to hasten the discovery of America.  He had observed that its current brought canoes, trees, and dead bodies of Indians from the westward, and from those circumstances judged correctly that there was an undiscovered country in that quarter.</P>
081.sgm:<P>We arrived March 4th, at Brazos, a small town consisting of about fifty houses at the mouth of the Rio Grande river, from Fort Brown twenty-five miles by land, and sixty by water.  Col. Webb's company proceeded by steamer two hundred miles up the Rio Grande to Davis' ranche, consisting of a store, grocery, and farm.  Thinking that it would be dangerous to take about $11,000, extra, with them, Col.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:encamped on the bank of the river opposite Reynosa.  From our encampment every morning and every evening we heard about three hundred bells ringing in Reynosa, so terrifically that we thought at first the town was on fire, or about to be attacked by some enemy, and felt inclined to cross the river to render our assistance; but found afterwards they were ringing for religious purposes.  The Mexicans called them <HI REND="italics">Joy Bells</HI>
081.sgm:<P>As we are encamped on the bank of the Rio Grande, the shoemaker must have a little liberty to <HI REND="italics">shoe</HI>
081.sgm: some of its traits.  Rio Grande, in English, means the <HI REND="italics">Great</HI>
081.sgm: River, and I can assure our readers that it is the <HI REND="italics">greatest</HI>
081.sgm:<P>On the 30th we crossed to Reynosa, in canoes, taking our wagons to pieces and crossing them in the same way, swimming over our mules, which occupied us three days.  Of course we were soon saluted by the custom house officers, for their dues.  While our committee waited on them to settle that matter, the rest of our company rushed into the Rio Grande to bathe, which proved a delicious treat.  Listen what occurred while so doing.  Ye gods and goddesses, and ye little Cupids and big Venuses!  Some senoritas, married and unmarried, I presume, had been watching us, and came down to bathe and show off their celestial charms, stripping to the skin while talking like so many parrots, and then mingled with us in the nautical amusement.  As we had too much modesty to do in Mexico what they do there, we left the watery angels to their sweet selves, and going ashore, dressed, and watched them a considerable time while they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>Reynosa contains about 3000 inhabitants, who were terribly frightened and scathed by cholera, during our stay of three days in the place.  The day we left, sixty persons died in the place from its effects.  In fact, every house we passed in our progress from Fort Brown to Saltillo, had one or more persons in it dead from cholera.  Eight of our company, who were Romanites, before leaving, fearing that disease, purchased from a Spanish priest a sufficiency of prayers that would last them till we got to Monterey, or to some other place in the other world if they died on the way.  While those Catholics were absent purchasing prayers, a Lancaster lawyer, of our company, asked a splendidly dressed and lovely Senorita, if she would go into another room with him, stating that he wished to have some private conversation with her, I presume, on the state of the nation and of womankind, in particular.  She understood enough of his speech to reply, " <HI REND="italics">Si</HI>
081.sgm: Senor."  He thinking that she said that some one would <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
081.sgm: them during their innocent interview, I told him that " <HI REND="italics">Si</HI>
081.sgm:," did not mean <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
081.sgm: but "Yes," and that she was perfectly willing that he should have a harmless kiss.  On returning from the interview, the lawyer, thinking that her sweet lips might have imparted the cholera or some other awful disease, requested me to give him some No. 6 immediately, with which he rubbed himself all over, but, it smarted his tender flesh so excessively that he howled around the room like an old wolf, caught at last in a baited trap.  Oh! these attractive women! whom we find at the <HI REND="italics">bottom</HI>
081.sgm:<P>I witnessed several funerals while in Reynosa, and singular affairs they were surely.  The lids of the coffins were kept off until the processions arrived at the grave, the corpse being covered with newly pulled roses, while each procession was led by a drummer and fifer, who discoursed lively music on their respective instruments.  What does such funeral philosophy mean?  Does it say, that we should weep when a person comes into the world, and rejoice when he or she is going out of it, ascending to a better country, where the storms of life shall never reach us to blast our prospects, and where no deaths shall interrupt the peace of families?  Do the roses sprinkled over the corpse speak of the roses of immortality which never fade or die <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>I then asked, why they did not permit Protestants to have churches in the village for their civilization.  He said that could not be permitted, as the Catholic is the first and last church on earth.  Truly, I thought, that it is the <HI REND="italics">last</HI>
081.sgm: church on earth, and always will be the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
081.sgm:<P>Proceeding we reached, after two days travel, a town called Chenee, on a river pronounced San Whan, one of the tributaries of the Rio Grande, 50 miles from Reynosa.  We arrived at 11 o'clock at night, finding the frolicking part of the inhabitants--which means the whole, as the Irishman says--in an awful predicament.  They had been enjoying a fandango that Sunday night, which was suddenly interrupted at 9 o'clock by the priest, who would not give them license to dance until twelve o'clock, as they desired, he believing that there is a time to dance as well as a time to sleep.  We sympathized with the inhabitants with all our hearts and with all our legs, as we greatly wished to exercise the latter in that innocent and exhilerating amusement.  As it is an ill wind that blows nobody good, perhaps it was best that it so happened, as the Lancaster lawyer might have got into another female predicament in which he would have had 100 fists applied to his body instead of that No. 6, I spoke of before.  It showed also the power of the priest over the people, whom for a handful of dimes, he can snatch from hell and purgatory, and send to heaven when he pleases.  We only stopped long enough to get some hay for our mules, being determined to encamp at a country ranche not far beyond, where we might have our wants supplied more readily.  We found the hay stacked in the trees so that the cattle could not reach it; a necessary precaution as they have no fences, and the cattle are herded in droves.  Progressing, we lost our way, in attempting to find the ford across the San Whan, so that we were obliged to encamp on this side of it.  A singular occurrence happened that night.  Baker and myself were on guard.  Suddenly we were startled by the screaming of Strode, who, in his fright, declared that he saw a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>Looking into the gloom along the ground, we did see and hear something that seemed in a threatening attitude.  As it advanced, we marched out to meet it, determined to fight and die in the defence of our rights, although the continued screams of Strode and Leverett, were sufficient to appal the stoutest soul, remembering the heroic conduct of General Zachary Taylor at Monterey and Buena Vista, which inspired our own souls with the same hardihood.  Although the conduct of two of our companions plainly said, that <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"He who fights and runs away<LB>May live to fight another day,"<LB></HI>
081.sgm:<P>we boldly advanced--advanced--advanced--and found the enemy to be--not a Camanche Indian, not a renegade Mexican, or a wild beast--but an expanded umbrella rolling on the ground towards us, moved by a gentle breeze.  Before retiring that night, one of our comrades had occasion to use that umbrella, and left it expanded on the ground, which made some of us run away and some of us laugh excessively.</P>
081.sgm:<P>The next morning we forded the San Whan.  In doing so, one of our comrades named Course, from Alexandria, in Virginia, came near being drowned.  Being on a very small weak mule, the force of the current swept both away into deep water.  As he could not swim, his situation was a critical one.  Stripping as fast as possible, I leaped in to his rescue, and succeeded, after much difficulty, in bringing him to shore.  The mule, after losing the saddle, swam out.  On the 10th of April, we arrived at Monterey.  As the Cholera was raging badly in the town, we disputed whether we should remain or proceed to a mill five miles farther, where there were many conveniences both for health and comfort.  The committee determined that we should remain there, which highly displeased the rest of the company.  That night, about 6 o'clock, Course and myself were attacked by Cholera.  At 6 o'clock the next morning Course died, but fortunately I recovered to tell the readers my adventures.  We buried Course at the Walnut Springs, about eight miles from the city, as we could not be permitted to bury him in a Catholic burial ground in Monterey, the deceased having been an Episcopahan.  O cursed hell-born bigotry, that separates the living, and then separates the holy dead.  But, thank all the gods at once, it cannot separate us in the other world, where, washed from all our sins through Jesus Christ, we shall be placed on a glorious equality, where we shall find, as we ought to know here, that God is no respecter of persons.  A Mr. Hyde, from the same place in Virginia, and belonging to the same Episcopal Church, after helping to drink or finish three kegs of the best 4th proof French brandy, preached an appropriate funeral discourse over our deceased comrade before starting to the grave, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>Passing from Monterey to Saltillo, we saw nothing extraordinary except many inviting palmetto and prickly pear trees.  Saltillo contains 8000 inhabitants, and has in its place, a magnificient fountain pouring out water towards every point of the compass.  We did not linger long at Saltillo, and passed on to the Buena Vista battle ground, 8 miles, where we encamped, employing as much time as we could spare, in viewing its celebrated localities, remembering that there one of the greatest victories was gained by Gen. Zachary Taylor, who with 5000 troops, principally volunteers, conquered Santa Anna, commanding 25,000 lancers and infantry.  Buena Vista means in English a <HI REND="italics">Fine View</HI>
081.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">Grand Sight</HI>
081.sgm:, and it was, indeed, a <HI REND="italics">Grand Sight</HI>
081.sgm: for our troops to see the Mexicans scampering away as if fifty-thousand devils were at their heels.  In fact, they afterwards called Zachary the <HI REND="italics">Devil</HI>
081.sgm: --consequently his soldiers were the <HI REND="italics">imps</HI>
081.sgm:.  Although some poet jocosely said of our volunteers going to Mexico:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The volunteers to the wars have gone,<LB>In the ranks of death you'll find them,<LB>With their little caps their heads upon,<LB>And no coat tails behind them."<LB></HI>
081.sgm:<P>Yet during that triumphant war, they showed as much skill and bravery as the regular troops, and in some cases more, for American troops in the majority of cases fight better when untramelled by the strictest discipline.  We visited the graves in which our heroes, who fell on that glorious occasion, had been interred.  They were buried, layer upon layer, in two large pits--of course, covered with uncommon glory as well as with common dirt.  As that battle has been described and noticed by thousands of pens, it is needless for me to notice it particularly here.  But I must mention one circumstance that happened there, which shows the extraordinary coolness of Gen. Z. Taylor in battle.  He saw a small cannon ball coming directly towards his person.  Instead of spurring " <HI REND="italics">Old Whitey</HI>
081.sgm:<P>We proceeded to Paras, finding the road skirted luxuriantly with the palmetto, prickly pear, and a plant called the King's Crown.  We stayed three days at Paras, where we got our wagons repaired and the mules shod, and disposed of some of our loading in order to facilitate us on our journey.  Thence to Quinquema.  At this point the Camanche Indians became numerous.  Eight miles from that town before reaching it, nine of those Indians attacked a Mexican train, consisting of mules packed with silver, which thirty Mexicans were taking to Durango.  We saw the transaction.  The Indians left the silver on the ground and drove off the mules, as the Mexicans ran to us for protection.  We tried to save a wounded Mexican, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Devil</HI>
081.sgm: at the same time.  The admission price was 25 cents.  About 3000 spectators were present.  The enclosure comprised about three acres, surrounded by a wall six feet in height.  Each bull was prepared for the sport this way--about fifty wooden spears, saturated with brimstone, were pierced into different parts of his body.  Those were ignited, when the bull in a perfect blaze rushed furiously around the enclosure, still further persecuted by three Mexicans on horseback, who occasionally speared his flesh as they rode around and jumped over him, escaping sometimes almost miraculously from the horns of the animal, finally killing him by slow torture.  In this way six bulls were killed, but not until three horses had met the same fate, and one Mexican wounded.  The bishop, who delighted in such barbarity, and led his congregation to admire the same brutality, professed to be a follower of that Jesus Christ who on earth would not wilfully harm a fly or tread upon a feeble worm.  But, perhaps, he did not go so high in his belief, and only believed in the Virgin Mary, and we know that some women are somewhat cruel on occasions less barbarous than a bull fight.  The next morning, while passing along the street, we witnessed the following scene.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>At this place I determined to use my best efforts to have our wagons and mules sold in order to go the rest of the land journey on pack mules, and also to stop the joint-stock eating business, as I had frequently bought chickens and eggs, which I never saw, much less eat of afterwards.  Aided by others, who saw the existing evils we succeeded, and the wagons, mules, and some other articles were sold; $1000 worth of property brought but $450.  We then hired a train of thirty mules, accompanied by six muleteers, to convey our decreased baggage and goods to Mazatlan, 160 miles distant, on nothing but a mule path.  I must here relate a laughable circumstance to relieve the tediousness of the journey.  Fennifrock got sick at Durango with diarrhoea.  Previously he had purchased some boiled beans, fully peppered and compressed into a small space.  As he was sick he could not eat the luscious mess, and gave me permission to eat some of them.  I ate a small quantity, but Strode swallowed the rest at a meal.  On Fennifrock enquiring who had eaten his stock so voraciously, Strode told him that I had eaten all of them <HI REND="italics">up</HI>
081.sgm: or rather <HI REND="italics">down</HI>
081.sgm:<P>Started from Durango,  April 22d.  The first night after leaving that city, Strode and Denman lost their mules, either strayed or stolen, so they were obliged to foot it.  Denmam and myself being on very good terms, I permitted him to ride my mule occasionally while I walked.  On the third day I walked considerably ahead, and stopped to rest until the train reached me, when I found Strode riding my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>Stambaugh showed how curiously jealousy can operate on the human heart.  In passing over the mountains he exhibited a great deal of timidity, driving his mule before him instead of riding it where there was not the least danger.  My courage and skill in riding up and down the precipices, showed his fearfulness in a rediculous light, so much so that he advised me to do as he did, only riding on the levels on the summits of the mountains.  I told him that if he was willing to give $1 per day for the privilege of driving a mule up hill and down, he might do it, but that for myself I had given $1 per day for my mule for the privilege of riding whenever it suited my convenience, and that was all the time.  I also observed that he had better return to Durango and persuade Gen.  Urrea to believe that he was a male angel, unfit for such travel over Mexican mountains, as I had heard through our interpreter, that the Lancaster lawyer, Perkins, Hyde, (the man who preached the sermon,) and himself, had while in Durango palmed themselves off to Gen.  Urrea as very wealthy gentlemen, travelling only to see the country, implying that myself and a few others were their escort or servants.  While the fact was, I shone the most prominent in that city.  All the rest shaved except myself, so that my beard reached almost to my knees, and, consequently, with my long silver mounted rifle and other accoutrements, I presented a truly formidable appearance, and attracted general attention and admiration wherever I went.  This, of course, excited the jealousy of Stambaugh and a few others.  As Gen. Urrea had been the greatest cut-throat in murdering our straggling soldiers during the war with Mexico, it showed rather a traitorous disposition to visit him, which should cast some discredit on those who honored, or, perhaps, dishonored him by a visit.</P>
081.sgm:<P>At this point we are travelling over very high mountains.  At one spot we passed over many acres of lava, which had been thrown out by a neighboring volcano, which proved very troublesome to the feet of our mules.  Visited a warm spring, apparently hot enough to scald a chicken or boil an egg, showing that the internal fires were burning beneath.  If Father Miller had lived in that neighborhood, he certainly would have fixed the time of the end of the world about a dozen years sooner than he did.  But volcanos are great blessings instead of curses, and should excite our gratitude instead of our fears.  If a man has a colic, and applies no physic to remove the cause, he, dies.  So has the earth the colic at times, but those volcanos remove the origin of it, or otherwise the globe would burst.</P>
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081.sgm:<P>On the fifth day from Durango, we reached the summit of the highest mountain, where I thought I was nearer to the good world than I would ever be again, from which we enjoyed a glorious prospect of mountains and plains, and, towards the east a glimpse of the Pacific Ocean, which seemed pacifically inviting us to its borders.</P>
081.sgm:<P>As we progressed, we had ice and snow on the mountains, where we encamped at night; and by day in threading the valleys we enjoyed a delicious climate, water-melons, peaches, grapes, cocoa nuts, oranges, lemons, bananas and plantains.  This truly romantic and solemn scenery affected us considerably.  Previously, we had almost constantly passed through scrubby chapparel, and frequently could not find enough of wood to cook our meals; but here, almost for the first time since leaving the Brazos, we were traversing primeval forests, some of the trees of which had witnessed (if trees have eyes) the exploits of the soldiers of Cortez and Pizzaro.  I could not help remembering and quoting a portion of Bryant's exquisite poetry:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The groves were God's first temples.  Ere man learned<LB>To hew the shaft and lay the architrave,<LB>And spread the roof above them--ere he fram'd<LB>The lofty vault together and roll'd back<LB>The sound of anthems, in the darkling wood<LB>Amidst the cool and silence, he knelt down<LB>And offered to the Mightiest solemn thanks.<LB>And supplication.  For his simple heart<LB>Might not resist the sacred influences,<LB>That from the stilly twilight of the place,<LB>And from the grey old trunks that high in heaven<LB>Mingled their mossy boughs, and from the sound<LB>Of the invisible breath, that swayed at once<LB>All their green tops, stole over him and bow'd<LB>His spirit with the thought of boundless Power,<LB>And inaccessible Majesty.  Ah! why<LB>Should we, in the world's riper years, neglect<LB>God's ancient sanctuaries, and adore<LB>Only among the crowd, and under roofs<LB>That our frail hands have raised!  Let me, at least,<LB>Here in the shadow of this aged wood<LB>Offer one hymn, thrice happy if it find<LB>Acceptance in His ear!"<LB></HI>
081.sgm:<P>In those mountains we passed silver mines every day, some of which were worked by English companies.  At the bottom of the highest mountain I mentioned, was a very singular rock, about two thousand feet high, while its base was only about one hundred feet square.  On its summit towered a beautiful pine tree, 60 feet in height.  Nothing more of note happened until we arrived at Mazatlan on the Pacific ocean.  Here we found a French brig and a Danish schooner, both bound for San Francisco.  I was informed that the Lancaster lawyer observed to the French captain that he would induce our company, and two or three other companies which had arrived by way of Mexico city, to prefer his vessel, if he would give him his passage free.  As the Lancaster lawyer acted in this way, and as I also knew that while in Durango he borrowed fifty dollars in silver of a negro, on the credit of the company, and which still remained unpaid, telling the negro, (in order to get that sum,) that our gold pieces would not pass for their full value in Durango, but would in Mazatlan, I determined to quit so mean a person, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>After getting far out into the ocean, we ran a north-east course towards the destined port.  When a week from land, we were supplied with wormy bread, putrid jerked beef, musty rice, and miserable tea, there not being enough of tea to color the water, the water was colored previously, to deceive us,) but we were too wide awake for the captain, and, being 200 in number, we determined to have the worth of our money, as the Yankee boys are number one on sea as well as on land.  We threw those articles of food overboard, telling the captain we must have better.  This infuriated him, and he swore that if we did not become satisfied with the food he gave us, he would take us back to Mazatlan, and have us tried and imprisoned for mutiny.  We as furiously told him that hunger knew no law, and that as soon as he turned the vessel towards Mazatlan we would shoot him, and, moreover, that he must not only keep on his proper course, but give us proper food, or we would take all the ship matters into our own hands.  He became as cool as a cowed rooster, kept on his course, and afterwards gave us the best he had.  We caught and ate a few sharks on the passage; and I saw for the first time in my life whales every day, and porpoises darting about in every direction, like artful politicians, turning summersets occasionally to suit their respective views, and show the other fish their superiority.</P>
081.sgm:<P>On the 30th I arrived at San Francisco, not knowing a single person there.  The first night there I experienced the first rain since leaving home.  On arriving, I went into a tent asking the proprietor what would be his charge for permitting me to sleep on the bare ground that night.  He replied fifty cents, to which I instantly agreed.  During the rain some of the natives informed me that they had never seen rain nor heard thunder until the d--d Yankees came to that region.  In the morning  I went to another tent to get breakfast, for which I paid $2,50.  The owner of that tent offered me eight dollars per day if I would aid in erecting a muslin house, besides board, which I thought high wages, as I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>On landing at Sacramento city I entered a tent, kept by Mrs. Moore, the first American woman I had seen since leaving the States, who swore that her brandy was better than any <HI REND="italics">other man's</HI>
081.sgm:<P>I then proceeded immediately to the gold mines or diggings on the North Fork of the American river, which empties into the Sacramento river, being 45 miles from Sacramento city.  That distance I walked, paying $20 for the conveyance of my baggage on pack mules.   The next day, about 10 o'clock after leaving Sacramento city, I reached the mines.  I passed the first day in observing how five hundred persons dug and washed the gold.  This place is called Smith's Bar, because a man named Smith has a store there, where he sells provisions and mining implements.  There I paid ten dollars for a small pan for washing gold, seven dollars for a pick, and eight dollars for a small crow bar, renting a cradle for six dollars per day, although a person I never saw before, named Hughes, who lives about St. Louis, offered to lend me $100 for the purchase of a cradle, eight dollars for a shovel, five dollars for a pint of pickles, fifty cents a pound for beef.  I had then but seventy-five cents left.  I slept at night on a rock, between two high mountains, with a blanket over and one under me, reflecting in wakeful time that I was 3,500 miles from home, my mind running back to my boyhood and my playmates, remembering the delicious seasons I had enjoyed with my father and mother, and particularly with my bosom friend and wife, Ellen, and my children in Lancaster, Ohio.</P>
081.sgm:<P>The next morning I commenced working in earnest, and laboring incessantly for four weeks, finding, after deducting expenses, that I had cleared ten dollars per day, that is $280.  I then sold my mining implements, and returned to San Francisco, expecting to get a letter there from my family.  I received one, being the first I had got.  After blessing the steamer that brought it, I addressed a letter to my wife, inclosing $200 and a sample of the gold dust.  I then went to the gold mines at another point, on a river called the Stanish Lou, 200 miles south of the mines I had previously visited.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>While lying asleep or awake at night I did not think it strange lizzards to run over my body and up the legs of my trowsers, and for wolves, called the <HI REND="italics">kyota</HI>
081.sgm:<P>In my travels through California I saw thousands upon thousands of the finest and fattest cattle I ever saw, perfectly wild;--deer, antelopes, and elk, but I never saw the wild oats, wheat and clover high as a horse's belly, mentioned by Col. Fremont, as published in his travels, and have the strongest reasons for believing that they do not exist in that country.</P>
081.sgm:<P>I caution persons going from this country to California against the traders and speculators found in that country.  When those strangers inquire for the best diggings, those traders direct them to the spot where they have provisions and mining implements for sale, whether those places are the best or not.  Strangers, after digging with little success in spots to which they have been directed--perhaps in places which have been abandoned, become disgusted, leave the gold region, and return home, believing that the whole is a humbug affair; whereas, if they would travel a little and search for themselves, they would find plenty of gold, return well laden with the precious metal, and publish that it is the greatest or rather only El Dorado in the world.</P>
081.sgm:<P>I will now notice some of the diseases of California, to which the mines are particularly liable.  One is the diarrh&oelig;, caused by drinking the water, surcharged with mineral, called <HI REND="italics">mica</HI>
081.sgm:, a substance which is yellow as gold, which sometimes leads strangers to believing that it is that metal, but gold is hard and this is soft.  Strangers wishing to preserve their health, should boil the water, and drink or otherwise use it when cool.  Another is produced by the poisonous oak.  Then the scurvy, occasioned by eating too much salt meat, and to avoid it vinegar or lime juice should be freely used.  The argue and fever, which is very common, as the nights are very cold and the days excessively warm.  I saw the thermometer 130 degrees in the shade, and persons sun-struck instantly.  To prevent being sun-struck, the miner should constantly wear a wet cloth between his head and the crown of his hat.  To avoid the heat the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>I never saw trees in California fit for making rails, except the red wood tree along the San Francisco Bay.  The Bay of San Francisco is entered by a channel two miles in width, when it widens to 40 miles, being by some considered one of the safest and most beautiful in the world.  But I have a different opinion of it, as it is assailed by a hurricane every afternoon, coming directly over the city, at which time a woman cannot walk the streets.  The banks of this bay are bluffy and mountainous.  Opposite San Francisco is a strait leading from the larger bay into a smaller one, called Linn Bay into which Napper River empties.  Every thirty miles up the latter bay we pass through another strait leading into another bay.</P>
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081.sgm:<P>I had the honor of erecting and occupying the most beautiful and comfortable tent in Sacramento City.  I formed it thus: Half way between the ship landing and the main street was a singular sycamore tree, which, with age and honor, had bent down to the shape of a half circle, while from its curved trunk rose branches, casting a delightful shade around.  This curve I made the entrance or front door of my tent, building back of it with muslin until it was sufficiently large for every purpose.  Between the two sides of the trunk ran my counter, leaving a small passage on one side for entering and going out.  It astonished both natives and foreigners, who saw, that, like the nenowned Sam Patch, I could do some things as well as others, on an eterprise which no one thought of before.  But I was more fortunate than that here.  Sam Patch was drowned in trying his experiments, but I swam head up high in going on with mine.  In truth, it was a patriarchal mode of living and trading, and the " <HI REND="italics">Sycamore Tree Establishment</HI>
081.sgm:<P>I will now give some specimens of California life which I witnessed.  An Irishman, who lived on the opposite side of the river, came over to the City to have a spree, for the Irishman is the same jovial personage every where.  Excited by ardent spirits, &amp;c., he had been swearing that he would kill somebody that day.  From my tent, I saw him, with uplifted bowie knife, pursuing an individual.  When he had almost reached his expected prey, the latter turned on him and wounded him severely with a pistol.  His wife was sent for, who came over in a canoe.  With assistance she had her husband placed in the bottom of it, and started for home.  As the wound made him restive, she swore that if he did not be still she would throw him overboard.  He died about four hours after reaching his dwelling.--Elder, the man who shot the Irishman, was immediately arrested, and tried before a kind of jury court, and acquitted.  A few days afterwards a man was arrested for stealing $50 worth of gold dust.  A jury was called and a judge appointed, and he was found guilty, his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>I will notice more proceedings at my tent, but I must begin by saying the Lancaster boys are arriving.  The vessel I sailed in from Mazatlan arrived at San Francisco two months before the French brig in which they voyaged.  The catholics have their hell in purgatory, the universalists theirs on earth, but the Lancaster boys were to have theirs on the Pacific ocean for their conduct towards me.  They arrived at Sacramento City without money, and wished to borrow $50 from me.  I readily agreed to let them have it.  They wrote a joint note, not with a pen, but with a pencil, that through rubbing in the pocket book it would soon rub out.  I observed to them at the time that they need not think I am a fool because some may consider me an ignorant shoemaker, for I had discovered why they wished to have the note written with a flimsy pencil, and would not, in consequence, let them have $50 on any terms.  That was a great revolution in feelings, after wishing to shoot me at Mazatlan, to try to borrow money from me at Sacramento City; but the reader will see that the same principle, or rather want of principle, was exhibited both in the shooting business and the borrowing affair.  They then took a pleasure trip to Smith's Bar, and I never heard anything of them afterwards.  From the time of my landing in San Francisco, June 1, to the present time, August 20, I had accumulated $1500, that is, cleared that sum, after paying all expenses.  I firmly believe that, if I had not been bothered and delayed through Texas and Mexico by the Lancaster boys--that is, if the wagons had been sold, and we had muled it in 30 days instead of the two months the trip occupied, I might have doubled the $1500 between the dates I mentioned.</P>
081.sgm:<P>As usual with me, I wish to give a little advice to persons coming from the States to the California mines.  Let each person have only 2 good flannel shirts, and the suit of clothes he usually wears, the gold he intends spending in a belt fastened around his body;--1 good six-shooter Colt pistol--good butcher knife instead of a bowie knife, as with the former, one can eat, but not with the latter--a good rifle.  These are all the necessary articles he should have.  If a man comes through the Isthmus, with a huge trunk full of clothes and the mining implements, he is obliged to pay to $16 per 100 lbs. for their conveyance, $20 per hundred from San Francisco to Sacramento City, and $20 per hundred from Sacramento City to the mines.  Then he has paid more for those articles than the prices at which they may be obtained in California.  If a trunk is stored in San Francisco or in Sacramento City, he has to pay $3 per month.  I had twenty trunks stored in my possession at that price, I placed them under a tree outside the tent.  People in the States may talk about conveniences, but after a person is obliged to lug a cradle, two blankets, pick, shovel, crowbar, and a week's provision, on his back, walking fifteen miles per day through the hot sun, up and down the mountains, he has no use for a trunk full of clothes and a tent.  The person who digs gold lives like the wild man, deprived of every comfort of life and society.  I believe that there is enough of gold in California region to supply <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>A gentleman, named Francis Shaeffer, whom I had known from a boy, stepped into my tent.  He was born and raised in Lancaster, Fairfield county, Ohio.  His father keeps the finest hotel in Lancaster, and, I think, is worth $100,000.  I was considerably glad to see Frank, as he was the first of my acquaintance I had seen in the gold regions.  He came the overland route from Fort Independence, one among the first who got through.  I asked him, why he had come to that desolate place, as his father had enough at home to sustain him during life without laboring.  He answered that he knew that, but he wished to make with his own hands as much as his father possessed.  I could not help sincerely pitying him when I saw his fine form and expressive countenance, with an intelligence that might have realized him a fortune in any other place, knowing and feeling that the hardships and privations of that region would be severe on one who had been so delicately raised and liberally educated, yet feeling confident that by his extraordinary energy and ability he would acquire an independent fortune at the mines, and would go to his home with one of the largest treasures on earth.</P>
081.sgm:<P>A New York lawyer stepped into my tent one day, without the usual haughty swagger he had frequently previously exhibited in Broadway, and without the usual gloves on his hands and umbrella under his arm, which he had displayed there in going to perform some peti-fogging business.  I never heard his name, and perhaps he was so ashamed of the mines he wished to conceal it.  He said there was no law in that country, and that gold digging was too severe for his delicate hands and body.  I observed that the more law there is in any country the more trouble there is among men, he said that he was without money and without hope, showing me a splendid gold watch, saying that he wished me to purchase it from him, asking $50 for it, observing that it had cost him $110 in New York.  I told him that I would give him $20 for it.  This he took and spent $5 of it with me, in eating and drinking, before he left.  A sailor was at my tent.  The captain of a vessel wished to hire him to accompany the former to Oregon.  The captain offered him $250 per month.  The sailor asked $300.  The captain observed that that was too much, and he could not give it.  The sailor then retorted, that if this captain would accompany and help him at the mines he would give him $300 per month and board.  This is the only country in which I have seen true democracy prevailing.  The poor man can give as high wages as the rich man, and the former can hire the latter as readily and as liberally as the latter can hire the former.  While I was in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:Sacramento City, an English vessel was lying at that port of the muslin houses.  Although the sailors had been receiving good wages, all of them run away from the ships to the mines.  The captain, who was receiving $50 per month from his employers in England, being an honest man and true to their interests, remained on board.  He hired at that port a cook, for his own eating, to whom he gave $250 per month.  This is the first time I ever saw a cook get more wages than the captain of a vessel.  No other country can exhibit such a singularity as that.  In fact, California has turned the world upside down in every department of life.  A New York gentleman walked pompously into my tent, and asked me what I would take for the now universally celebrated and appreciated " <HI REND="italics">Sycamore Tree Establishment</HI>
081.sgm:<P>Now I am ready to start for home.  A man, named Walker, living in Covington, opposite Cincinnati, who came with me from Mazatlin to Sacramento City, got drunk at the latter place soon after I arrived there, and went off intoxicated to the mines.  When I saw him last he was making a perfect worm fence along his route.  I did not hear of him afterwards until the moment I was ready to start towards home.  I asked how he had progressed after leaving me.  He informed me that he had found a rich spot, and had dug out $8500.  He showed me the dust.  Both of us then proceeded to San Francisco, where, getting as beastly drunk, as ever, he gambled and soon lost $1000.  Then he had $7500 left, which I took care of for him.  As to fortune, there was a great disparity between us, as I had only $2000.</P>
081.sgm:<P>It is now  August 20, and Walker and myself are at San Francisco, waiting for a passage to the States.  The U.S. Mail steamer "Panama," is anchored in the bay, three miles from the town, appointed to sail Sept. 2d.  She is commanded by Capt. Baily.  Our tickets for the steerage, in that ship, cost us each $150.  I could have sold my ticket for $250, as there were about one thousand more than the steamer could take, wishing passage to the States.  There I saw several of the Lancaster boys.  I call them <HI REND="italics">boys</HI>
081.sgm:, for <HI REND="italics">men</HI>
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081.sgm:<P>In walking through the town I saw people from all quarters of the globe, showing that San Francisco had already become the landing of the world, viz:--Americans, Englishmen, Hibernians, Scotch folks, Chinese, Sandwich Islanders, South Americans, New Granadians, Mexicans, Polanders, Sonorians.  I saw anchored in the harbor about five hundred vessels belonging to different nations, about one hundred at Vernicia, and two hundred at Sacramento City, making in all 800 vessels, the sailors had all ran off to the mines, averaging at that time but one man to a vessel to take care of them.  Some of the vessels were rotting, and I suppose the majority of them would be destroyed by the N.W. hurricanes.  I saw Col. Fremont, Col. Weller, and Ex-Governor Shannon there.  I conversed with them about the gold and state of the country, as to its soil and political interests.  I saw about three hundred gamblers in the city, acting like land sharks, entrapping the foolish gudgeons who were swimming about their establishments.  This state of society reminded me of two kinds of ducks I saw at the east, and which I have seen swimming together.  One of them is a small duck, having a diving disposition.  The other is large and indolent, but always fat, and avoids the trouble of diving.  When the small one dives to the bottom, and brings up the luscious grass, the large duck artfully swims to it, and, grasping the grass, eats it at leisure.  I compared the gambler to the large duck and the honest hard-working miner to the little one, the gambler being always fat in the pocket, and the miner proportionally poor in the same.  This would also apply to many in the United States.</P>
081.sgm:<P>When I was in the Macallemy river, I had the honor of seeing the lordly Mr. Perkins, of Cincinnati, who had acted so aristocratically towards me while passing through Mexico, so poisoned by the poisonous oak that he was bloated and full of sores.  Knowing the virulence of the disorder, and seeing how greatly he had been poisoned, I judged that he afterwards died.  Should I see him again it will seem like a resurrection from the dead.  Dead or alive, his case, first and last, reminds me of the proverb which says, that pride must have a fall--and sometimes even into the grave.  I believe in a hell on earth, and it is no matter what I believe about the other world.  Perhaps he was <HI REND="italics">also</HI>
081.sgm:<P>Before starting in the steamship "Panama," I wish to offer some appropriate reflections.  In the midst of constant excitement I love occasionally to pause and reflect on the consequences of things, and express my views accordingly.  It may be called the philosophy of a shoemaker, but what of that.  I have heard of shoemakers rising to high stations in jurisprudence, poetry, and philosophy.  But shoemakers are like persons of other professions, some being more deep than others on certain subjects.  The bird that skims over a clear stream may see as much of the pebbles as the duck that dives to the bottom.  I mean that, although I am a shoemaker, I may offer some good reflections on the value of California to the world, and to the United States in particular.  In the shop at home in Lancaster I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>As in this volume I am neither whig nor democrat, therefore I shall offer no remarks on the justness or unjustness of the war with Mexico which placed California in our hands.  It is enough for me to say that California in time will become the pivot on which our national glory will revolve,--in fact, will become the centre of the world.  Here nations will meet and shake hands with each other.--Asia coming from over the Pacific ocean, and Europe from over the Atlantic, grasping the huge paws of Uncle Sam beyond the Rocky Mountains--in our now Great West--and wishing him the highest success, because their own interests will be advanced in our growing prosperity.  How we are spreading as a nation.  About three quarters of a century since we had about three millions of people, but now we have extended our dominions from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, with a population numbering more than twenty millions--and many now living, before they die shall see somewhere about a hundred and fifty millions of inhabitants within the borders I have mentioned.  Does any one doubt that the states formed west of the Rocky Mountains will survive in unity with those states formed, and to be formed, east of them?  If such a doubt exists, let it be instantly banished from <HI REND="italics">American</HI>
081.sgm: minds, although some aristocratic <HI REND="italics">European</HI>
081.sgm: minds may entertain a contrary opinion, forever croaking over the instability of republican institutions in order to show the fancied stability of despotic thrones, notwithstanding they must see that our glorious Union is getting firmer every day, our conflicting party spirit only strengthening its roots as the storm strengthens the roots of the giant oak.  The Rocky Mountains, although towering like the Pyrenees separating Spain from France, will not separate the interests of our East and West.  When the telegraph, railroad, and other means of conveyance of thought and body, stretching entirely across North America, connect us more closely together, the union of thought, feeling, and person, will be perfect and productive of perfect amity.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>Let the shoemaker philosophise a little longer on this subject with a practical philosophy, which is far better than fallible mystifications on air balloons, and the imagined philosopher's stone.  Uncle Sam has a philosopher's stone in his Californian and Oregonian possessions which turns everything it touches to gold.  Let us see what a railroad, by Whitney or any other enterprising individual or company, connecting the two shores, will accomplish.  New York, which is within ten days of Europe by steamer, will then be within twenty-five days of China by that railroad and a steamer connecting its terminus with the Celestial Empire.  The Chinese themselves will acknowledge that our country, instead of theirs, will be the true Celestial Empire--ah, more,--shedding both terrestrial and celestial happiness and prosperity on every land with which it will be connected.  So that the hovering spirit of Columbus himself will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:rejoice over this short cut to the East Indies, contrasting it favorably with the old weary route through weary oceans, and wish himself again on earth that he might personally enjoy the glorious carrying out of an idea which he tried to have on the same subject.  Thus America will become the centre of the world, both in a commercial way and in a moral and intellectual sense.  Europe is rising and we are rising higher very appropriately about the same time, as if Providence had some prominent object in producing simultaneously those coincidences.  The Genius of Liberty is giving Europe a vomiting dose, and she is about disgorging her surplus population, fleeing for life and liberty, more plentifully than ever upon our inviting shores.  We must have more room and more employment for the coming seekers for liberty, in order to do out part in carrying out the design of the Supreme Disposer of events.  The East and West shall meet them with expanded arms, and the wilderness between shall bloom like a rose that they may safely worship the Almighty and secure their own rights.  Since the crucifixion, the Star of Empire has westwardly held on its brightening way, crossing the Atlantic ocean, and is now sending down its reviving rays on Oregon and California.  It is plain that we are to become the mediator between both sides of the old world.  God has given us the political and moral means for doing it, and now he is imparting the Californian gold that we may employ our increased talents with better effect.  About one hundred millions of the gold have been gathered by different nations and more than fifty years will be employed in gathering the remainder.  What for?  We may <HI REND="italics">guess</HI>
081.sgm:<P>Some even say, the object is, that the Jews, concentrating their long separated interests, may get from California the gold wherewith to build the temple of Jerusalem in all its ancient grandeur, in order that they may be reinstated, and prophecy concerning them accredited.  But such arguments cannot <HI REND="italics">jew</HI>
081.sgm:<P>At the appointed time we started in the "Panama."  Raising steam and firing a farewell gun, we were on our glorious way with 300 passengers on board.  Among them was the world-renowned Capt. Suter, being a delegate to the convention held at Monterey to form a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:<P>Our steamer stopped at Monterey, and changed the mail.  Also at San Diego.  At the latter place I saw a person, named Thomas Wilson, who had started from Lancaster with me.  He went by the way of the Isthmus.  At Panama he went as passenger on board of a vessel called the " <HI REND="italics">Two Friends</HI>
081.sgm:<P>The next port we touched at to change the mail was Santa Barbara.  Next Acapulco, and then Mazatlan, where we laid one day getting in provisions.  There the passengers went ashore for recreation.  I concluded to have a bath in the Pacific Ocean.  While bathing alone--how dangerous while ocean sharks and land angels are so numerous--several senoritas came to the same spot to enjoy the same amusement.  As I am always bashful in the presence of ladies, and more so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:when any parts of their bodies are exposed, I retreated to the shore, putting on my clothes before their angelic and wondering eyes, they wishing to guard me as attending mermaids while I bathed.  I, however, remained on the shore while they bathed, and when they had concluded and dressed, we walked together to the city, they speaking with their eyes a language which I did not quite understand, but enough to learn that they were pleased with me and wished more of my company, pointing at the same time to the setting sun and closing their eyes as if imitating sleep.  Pretending that I did not understand them, I left the angelic company.  I saw some half breed boys in the city, called <HI REND="italics">muchachoes</HI>
081.sgm:, or <HI REND="italics">little Americanoes</HI>
081.sgm:<P>The next port we reached and stopped at to change the mail was San Blas.  We ran from San Francisco to San Blas in sight of the coast all the time.  We saw whales of the largest size every day, all kinds of sea birds and fish, and saw on the steamer <HI REND="italics">an elephant</HI>
081.sgm: almost as large as <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
081.sgm: I saw in California.  I perceived all the way down a cask of brandy on the wheel house marked " <HI REND="italics">Captain Baily</HI>
081.sgm:."  It had no hoops, but a coat and pantaloons, and wore a Panama hat.  Strange to say, I saw that cask of brandy walk from the wheel house to the cabin and back again.  Its proper name should have been <HI REND="italics">a tyrant</HI>
081.sgm:<P>I will now describe how the steerage passengers live or almost die on those Pacific steamers.  They are fed as hogs are fed at a distillery, only they are fed in pans instead of troughs.  They are divided into messes of twelve persons each, a pan full of food to a mess.  One day, backed by 100 steerage passengers, I took one of those swine pans, filled with the disgusting food, into the cabin, and holding it before the eyes and nose of this tyrannical and malicious cask of brandy, asked him whether it was worth the $150 each of us paid for passage.  He replied, that it was good enough for steerage passengers.  I then threw the pan and food overboard, telling him that we would go to the cook house and take and eat what had been prepared for the cabin passengers.  He threatened to put the patriotic shoemaker--myself I modestly mean--in irons, if I offered him any more impudence.  We immediately went to the cook house.  The cook raised a hatchet to slay me.  One of my comrades, a man named Smith, from Alabama, immediately knocked the understrapping villain down.  We then took chickens, bread, puddings, roast beef and eggs, but wasted nothing.  After that we fared sublimely well, as a reward for our benevolent heroism, and for the advantage of all steerage passengers who may travel that route after us.  Afterwards this cask of brandy regarded Smith and myself as fiends fresh from hell.  We often called him the " <HI REND="italics">Jack of Clubs</HI>
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081.sgm:<P>We arrived at Panama on the  22d of September.  It is a very ancient city, and the number of inhabitants about ten thousand.  It is built much like the old Spanish style, each house constituting a fort in time of war.  The streets are very narrow.  It is under the government of New Granada.  The natives are principally colored like negroes, sprinkled with a few Spaniards.  No religion is allowed there except the Roman Catholic.  It was on Sunday morning I arrived.  I saw in a house a big buck negro on his knees, confessing his sins to a priest.  The sabbath, being their day of amusement as well as worship, I saw, in the afternoon, both the buck negro and the priest at the cockpit.  I meddle with no denomination--I belong to none--I think it right for every man to worship according to the dictates of his own conscience.  Let the priest act as mediator between God and man to all who choose to believe that way.  I will acknowledge none but Christ for my mediator.  I will confess my sins to God, in Christ the Lord, and to no other.  I will risk my salvation on that basis.</P>
081.sgm:<P>Here I found an American who had hired all the mules in the country, and others wishing them were obliged to hire from him.  He asked $16 for a mule to ride twenty-one miles to Cruces, a town at the head of canoe navigation on the Chagres river.  It contains about 1000 inhabitants.  The most of us, about 100, walked to Cruces instead of patronizing this wicked monopolist.  We met the U.S. Mail, brought by the Empire City, going from Chagres to Panama.  It was on twenty-four mules, each mule having three hundred pounds.  We also met fifty of the natives carrying baggage in the same direction, each bearing from one to three hundred weight.</P>
081.sgm:<P>I had heard a great deal of this road, but never saw it before, always hearing that it was the worst in the world.  It is a narrow mule path, mostly paved, on rolling ground, but not mountainous, with very excellent water about every twenty rods.  Those who think this a bad road have never passed from Durango to Mazatlan.  I can point to worse roads in Ohio.  I had frequently heard that the weather is very warm at the Isthmus, but I did not find it warmer than at the gold mines.  But it rains here every few hours.  I experienced here the first rain since that I mentioned which occurred the first night after my arrival in San Francisco.  The next morning after arriving at Cruces, twelve of us started in a canoe on the Chagres river for the town of Chagres, which is sixty miles from Cruces.  We stopped and breakfasted at Gorgona, eight miles below Cruces.  In this distance we passed through a perfect paradise.  I had heard of Italian scenery, but this far surpassed it.  All who pass through having any taste for the romantic, will agree with my opinion.  Gorgona contains about 1000 inhabitants, who look like, if they are not negroes.  Sugar cane grows in that country better without cultivation than it does around New Orleans with cultivation.  Also, pine apples, cocoa nuts, oranges, lemons, and many others of which I do not know the Spanish names, growing spontaneously throughout the year.  I believe it would beat the world for corn, if there were yankees there to cultivate it.  Each of us paid $1 for breakfast at Gorgona.  For passage from Cruces to Chagres each paid $16.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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081.sgm:to be in my possession, as he stated $40,000, while I only had about $2000.  Here poor Walker got on a spree and I left him, lamenting the evil consequences arising from drinking ardent spirits, and of French brandy in particular.  I took passage for Cincinnati in a steamer singularly named " <HI REND="italics">No better beyond</HI>
081.sgm:."  I commenced and continued traveling to see curiosities, and here was a great one.  The water was low, and she could go no farther than Cairo, at the mouth of the Ohio river, eight hundred miles from New Orleans.  But I got in a steamer <HI REND="italics">better beyond</HI>
081.sgm: --a great deal better than the " <HI REND="italics">No better beyond</HI>
081.sgm:,"--at Louisville, Kentucky.  It was the " <HI REND="italics">Pike</HI>
081.sgm:," and it was a real <HI REND="italics">pike</HI>
081.sgm:<P>Robinson Peters, John D. Martin, and James Pratt, furnished me with $400 to go to California on the halves.  I went, acted honorably, gave them the half, and, impelled by gratitude, I honor them, and hope and pray that they, their children, and their children's children, may enjoy every necessary earthly blessing, and die happily, feeling convinced that they had performed their duty towards God and man as their predecessors had done.</P>
081.sgm:<P>The shoemaker is convinced that California in time will become a glorious State, or States, of this glorious Union, and that thousands, in future years, will be emigrating from the States to it.  Wishing it and them the greatest prosperity and highest happiness, to present to them the following song, hoping that they will sing it as they are journeying to that land which gives as well as promises, wealth and happiness to the honorable and industrious:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>THE CALIFORNIA EMIGRANT'S SONG.<LB>Far onward towards the setting sun,<LB>We are bound upon our way,<LB>Nor till each ling'ring day is done<LB>Our toilsome march we stay:<LB>We're trav'ling on, a pilgrim band,<LB>Another home to find,<LB>Remote from that dear native land<LB>We now have left behind!<LB>The clime we seek is rich and fair,<LB>As blessed isles of yore,<LB>And lovelier prospects open there<LB>Than e'er was seen before!<LB>Vast plains spread out on ev'ry side,<LB>Stretch to the sloping skies:<LB>Broad rivers roll in tranquil pride,<LB>And tow'ring forests rise!</HI>
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081.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">There mines of California gold<LB>Their shining treasures show,<LB>Which coming years shall yet unfold<LB>To glad the bold and true!<LB>That treasure we shall joyful find<LB>With labor's sweetest smile,<LB>To help the State, in purse and mind,<LB>And bless ourselves the while!<LB>There smiling uplands catch the beams<LB>Of pearly morn serene,<LB>Gay verdant meadows fringe the streams<LB>That silvery wind between!<LB>Of ev'ry hue and sweet perfume,<LB>Wild flowers luxuriant spring,<LB>While birds, with varied note and plume,<LB>'Mid bowers of Nature sing!<LB>But cherish'd home! 'tis painful still<LB>To quit thy much loved shore,<LB>For fears our sorrowing bosoms fill,<LB>We ne'er may see thee more!<LB>Yet thy green hills and sunny vales,<LB>Those scenes of childhood all,<LB>How oft 'till recollection fails,<LB>Fond memory shall recall!<LB>For there are faithful ones endear'd<LB>By Nature's tend'rest ties,<LB>Whose cordial smiles so oft have cheer'd<LB>Life's burdening miseries!<LB>Comrades, whom first in youth we knew,<LB>In that bright region dwell:<LB>Friends, whom we prov'd in perils true,<LB>We bid them all <HI REND="italics">farewell</HI>
081.sgm:!<LB>The joy must fade which most delights<LB>The fond enraptur'd heart,<LB>And souls, that friendship's chain unites,<LB>Must still be torn apart!<LB>From home departing, doom'd by fate,<LB>Like wand'rers o'er the main,<LB>From dearest friends we separate,<LB>Never to meet again!<LB>Farewell! farewell! but not forever:<LB>We yet shall meet again<LB>Beyond the reach of absence here,<LB>Beyond the reach of pain!<LB>There is on high a brighter land<LB>Than California's shore,<LB>Where rich and poor, not one behind,<LB>Shall meet forevermore!<LB></HI>
082.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-082</TITLE>
082.sgm:<TITLE>A Frenchman in the gold rush; the journal of Ernest de Massey, Argonaut of 1849, translated by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
082.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
082.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
082.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
082.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
082.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>28-4902</LCCN>
082.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
082.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 1061553</COPYRIGHT>
082.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>A FRENCHMAN</p><P>IN THE</p><P>GOLD RUSH</p><P>THE JOURNAL OF ERNEST DE MASSEY</p><P>ARGONAUT OF 1849</p><P>TRANSLATED BY</p><P>MARGUERITE EYER WILBUR</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO</p><P>CALIFORNIA HISTORICAL SOCIETY</p><P>1927</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>Copyright 1927</p><P>by</p><P>CALIFORNIA HISTORICAL SOCIETY</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA HISTORICAL SOCIETY</p><P>Special Publication No. 2.</p></DIV>
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082.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
082.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>Translator's Preface<HSEP>9<LB>Arrival in San Francisco Bay<HSEP>11<LB>A Winter Spent in San Francisco in the Year 1850<HSEP>27<LB>Savages, Mines and Misery<HSEP>49<LB>In the Trinity Mines<HSEP>87<LB>Journey to the Klamath<HSEP>105<LB>San Francisco Again<HSEP>122<LB>San Jose&acute; and Santa Cruz<HSEP>133<LB>San Juan Bautista<HSEP>146<LB>San Juan to San Francisco<HSEP>152<LB>San Francisco, 1850-51<HSEP>158<LB>Notes<HSEP>181</p></DIV>
082.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS</HEAD>
082.sgm:<LB><HSEP><P>PAGE<LB>San Francisco in 1850<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Facing</HI>
082.sgm: 11</p><P>Facsimile of Signature of Ernest de Massey and a Portion of the MS<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Facing</HI>
082.sgm: 24</p><P>Advertisements of Vessels Sailing for Trinidad Bay--From the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
082.sgm:, March 32 and 28, 1850<HSEP>50</p><P>The Trinity Mines in 1851<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Facing</HI>
082.sgm: 68</p><P>Section of Bancroft's Map of California, 1868, showing the Trinity, Klamath and Shasta Mines<HSEP>88</p><P>Shipment of the Prisoners<HSEP>170</p></DIV>
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082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE</HEAD>
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082.sgm:Here he remained for some five years, returning in 1857 to his home in Passavant.<ANCHOR ID="n1">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1">De Massey engaged in business as a bookdealer.  His name first appears in Parker's San Francisco directory for 1852-3,--"E. De Massey &amp; Co. French and Spanish library, 117 Commercial St."  In Baggett's directory of 1856 the firm is listed as,--"E. de Massey and Finance, 126 Montgomery st."  After that year his name is not found, and a note attached to the MS. indicates that he returned to France during the next year.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>Ernest de Massey's journal opens with his departure on May 21, 1849, from Ha&circ;vre on the brig <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:, that carried a full passenger list of emigrants bound for California.  On July 25, the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: put in for water and provisions at Rio de Janeiro, remaining there two days.  Heading south and safely rounding Cape Horn in a gale of sleet and snow the ship then made a safe and pleasant passage up the west coast of South America to Callao.</p><P>From October 3 to October 31 the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: rode anchor in Callao harbor.  This lenghy stay gave her passengers ample time to visit Lima and browse about the surrounding country--a visit that De Massey describes vividly and succinctly in his journal.  Then, taking on freight, fresh provisions, and additional passengers, the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: headed north again arriving early in December off the coast of California.</p><P>MARGUERITE EYER WILBUR.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<illus entity="a082-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO IN 1850 Drawn by Le&acute;on Fleury, lithographed by L. Sabatier, and Published in Paris. -- <HI REND="italics">From the Templeton Crocker Collection</HI>
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082.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>A FRENCHMAN IN THE GOLD RUSH<LB>Translated from the Journal of Ernest de Massey</HEAD>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A PORTION OF PART III<LB>[<HI REND="italics">Addressed to His Brother, Captain Aime&acute; Marie Louis Adelstan de Massey</HI>
082.sgm: ]<LB>[ARRIVAL IN SAN FRANCISCO BAY]<HI REND="italics">Tuesday, December 14, 1849</HI>
082.sgm:<P>After passing a bad night, at eight in the morning we again heard the cry "Land."  This time it was not a myth but a reality.  The weather had been perfect.  Only about ten hours from the coast we were just passing the Farallones, and heading for the harbor.  But before we had time to get our bearings, fogs, rains, and squalls came down on us, veiling the coast from view.  Forced to tack, we were afraid, nevertheless, of going on the reefs and rocks.</p><P>Our situation is even more critical than it was yesterday, the wind being more violent.  Had this lasted two hours longer we might have had serious trouble; the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: might have gone down and all perished.  But luckily at two o'clock a rift in the clouds gave us a chance to head for a point that Captain Rey--who had assumed command through this critical period in place of Messmaker though he is only a sub-officer and representative of the owner--thought to be the entrance to the harbor.</p><P>Just as we were making for this point which all the sailors on board said was the right entrance I overheard a conversation, carried on <HI REND="italics">sub rosa</HI>
082.sgm: between the two Captains, which indicated clearly that Captain Rey was not certain of his bearings or of being on the course; that it was only a guess on his part, and that anything was preferable to going on the rocks for, if doomed to perish, it was better to die under full canvas.</p><P>Notwithstanding, he has not given up hopes of making port safely and, in spite of such fears and premonitions, he is outwardly cool and collected.  The seeming assurance with which he issues orders inspires confidence both in the crew and passengers.  No one suspects the danger of our position.  I have not breathed a word of what I overheard and though I feel far from composed yet I keep my worries to myself.  I am prepared, however, for whatever may happen.  But I take my hat off to Captain Rey who throughout the voyage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:or are just arriving, from all over the world.  After unloading cargo, being unable to procure freight or sailors, they are forced to lie here idle through the winter season.  Today, the fourteenth, at 5:30 P.M., the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: dropped anchor.<HSEP>It is now night and the panorama stretching out before us is sparkling with lights for several kilometers just as if every star in the heavens had been seized with the gold-rush fever and had migrated to the coast of California.  This evening all these lights in the city, as well as those from the ships in the harbor, reflected in the waters of the bay, seem to have a supernatural and magical air about them--a welcome diversion after the trials and tribulations of the voyage.<HSEP>This evening after finishing dinner the officers of the <HI REND="italics">Meuse</HI>
082.sgm:, a ship from Ha&circ;vre which belongs to the firm owning the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:, came on board to greet us.  As their ship has been lying here for three months they are thoroughly familiar with local conditions.  They told us many things which sounded so extraordinary that I was inclined not to believe them.</p><P>A house, or rather a wooden shack in a good district, so I am told, rents for 3500 piasters [Mexican dollars] (17,500 francs) a year.  Eggs are worth 40 fr; a bottle of wine--and what we have here is most mediocre--from 5 to 8 francs; bread is 2 fr. 50 c. for a loaf weighing 14 ounces.  Meat, the most reasonable commodity, as animals are plentiful in this country, brings from 90 c, to 1 fr. 20 c. a pound.</p><P>Wood for a shack 28x11 ft. is priced at 10,000 francs.  Interest charges for money, securities, or mortgages, are at the rate of 6% a month.  A canoe sells for 2000 francs; a visit from the doctor costs one ounce of gold-dust or 80 fr.  Wholesale prices are much lower.  Retail prices would not be so inflated except for the heavy warehouse charges, and the cost of labor and money.</p><P>At the placers, given the right season and perfect health, the average amount of gold panned per day is said to be one ounce.  However, supplies are more costly than in the city.  The cost of moving one ton 20 leagues beyond here costs twice what it does to ship it from Ha&circ;vre to San Francisco.  A good carpenter or merchant is paid, according to the local rates, from 50 to 80 francs a day.  The smallest amount possible to live on per day, excluding wine, is one piaster.  An axe selling for 2 fr. 50 c. in France, is sold for 15 francs in San Francisco; this seems too good to be true.</p><P>New placers are opened up every day, gold being found in practically all the mountainous regions along most of the rivers.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:Evidences of it are seen on every hand.  Purses are emptied and refilled as easily and with as much indifference as if these conditions would last forever.  Often in less than 24 hours gambling houses, cafe&acute;s, and restaurants will absorb a large or small fortune some miner has spent months in accumulating.  But yet he returns gayly to the mines hoping to make another stake--which is always a gamble.</p><P>Such is the picture the officers from the <HI REND="italics">Meuse</HI>
082.sgm: paint of this fabulous country we have just adopted.  And I am reluctant to think they have been fabricating these tales just to play on our credulity.  But now that we are actually here, tomorrow and the next few days will prove whether their information is correct or false.  Right here I may say that if any of you are astonished at these statements I am giving, the joke is on you.  If any palmist had prophesied this strange adventure of mine twenty-five months ago I would have passed it off as absurd, and advised him to consult a brain specialist.</p><P>With all the Arabs and Moors you have over in Algeria you ought not to lack astrologers.  Some day when you are looking for amusement have one of them read your horoscope and predict the results of my sojourn here in this land of nuggets.  These are the dates of the main events of the voyage.  On my birthday, June 1, we met an English ship, the <HI REND="italics">Caroline</HI>
082.sgm:, which, having run out of biscuits and water, was forced to get help from the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Anchored off San Francisco, Sat., Dec 15, 1849.</HEAD>
082.sgm:<P> After dinner the customs' officials came on board and stationed one of their men on our ship.  Finding that a French boat was leaving for shore we took advantage of this opportunity to go over to the city.  Local skippers charge from one to two piasters per person, the distance being about two kilometers.</p><P>The rays of the setting sun lighting up the amphitheatre on which the budding city surrounded by underbrush and green pastures stands made an impressive picture as we were crossing.  The present site could easily hold from three hundred to five hundred thousand inhabitants with ample chance for unlimited expansion southward.  No doubt in due season, as wealth and commerce multiply, all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>The standing population of San Francisco is computed at approximately fifty thousand.  This number is doubled if all the floating population living in tents, ships, and even in all-night gambling houses, is added.  These latter establishments which invariably adjoin cafe&acute;s are surprisingly numerous and are popular as all-night resorts where patrons drink, gamble, and even go to sleep on the couches as the mood strikes them.  Most of the <HI REND="italics">cafe&acute;s-chantants</HI>
082.sgm: employ an orchestra and singers.</p><P>Croupiers even offer to their patrons, free of charge, anything they like in the way of food or drinks.  This is done with an ulterior motive--and the trick is usually successful.  Such a place is rented to a proprietor at the customary rate of $30,000 to $40,000 (around 200,000 francs) a year who in turn sublets all the room he can dispose of at so much an hour.  This new tenant in accordance with his tastes and capital establishes roulette, monte, thirty-and-forty, baccarat, etc., paying in proportion to the amount of space he uses, from $50 to $100 an evening, and acting as banker if he chooses.  However, he must have at least $20,000 to $30,000 before even attempting to run a bank.</p><P>The more piles of gold there are in evidence the more the passion for play is excited.  With this end in mind a group of capitalists often form a company and pool their capital, some of their members act as decoys to the inexperienced, others keep an eye on the players who are apt to be numerous.  It is a game where trickery and treachery are constantly pitted against inexperience and the gambling fever which seems inbred in human nature.  This is how cliques assumed to be civilized make colossal fortunes and gain the whip hand.  Though immoral and reprehensible, yet such is the case.</p></DIV>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">At Anchor off San Francisco, Sunday, Dec. 16, 1849</HI>
082.sgm:<P>Last evening fourteen of us hired a boat to take us off to sleep on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:, but the sea was so rough, the night so black, and the currents so against us that the sailors who were rowing could not get beyond the <HI REND="italics">Georges</HI>
082.sgm:, a ship just out of Ha&circ;vre.  The captain took us on board with generous hospitality and offered us supper, but, owing to a shortage of bunks, we had to spend the night dozing on chairs and benches.</p><P>The sea is still running high today; this combination of winds and currents makes the ships strain and drag their anchors so badly that we saw several collisions.  From here we could see the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:, several hundred feet away from the ship where we had taken refuge, struck violently by three large vessels and a section of her stern caved in.  She <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:also lost her bowsprit.  We were obliged today to stay on the <HI REND="italics">Georges</HI>
082.sgm: until the sea calmed down along toward evening.  Even then it took us an hour and a half to make six hundred meters in a boat manned by the best sailors of the <HI REND="italics">Georges</HI>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">At Anchor off San Francisco, Dec. 17, 1849</HI>
082.sgm:<P>The bad weather still continues.  After the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: had been so badly damaged by the English ship, the <HI REND="italics">Morrison</HI>
082.sgm:, the sailors were kept constantly on watch.  The <HI REND="italics">Georges</HI>
082.sgm: has also her foremast, her main shrouds, and her fore-gallant-top sails damaged.  About 3 P.M. the weather abated sufficiently to allow her to pull away from these dangerous neighbors.  Anchors were weighed and she was allowed to drift several hundred meters.  The damage to the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">San Francisco Harbor, Tuesday, Dec. 18</HI>
082.sgm:<P>Last night was quiet for the first time since our arrival and I was able to get some sleep and rest.  Since early morning I have been on shore trying to rent a site for a shack.  I was fortunate enough to find some land centrally located near Montgomery and Sacramento Streets.  Though there were buildings on either side of the lot yet there was a clear space measuring some 28x24 feet available for my building.  The piece belongs to Robert Wells &amp; Co., capitalists and speculators, who speak perfect French and, what is even rarer, are gentlemen.  The price agreed on, one hundred dollars, holds good until March first.  I am paying it out at the rate of a little less than fifty dollars a month.  I also have the privilege of building my store up against one side of his house--an arrangement which saves me considerable lumber.  I could not ask for a more suitable site at a better figure considering the limited funds at my disposal.</p><P>Later on in the day I visited the French commission houses and some others which, for one reason or another, are rivals but which stand high among my fellow-countrymen.  One of them is run by J. J. Chauviteau, an ex-banker who had some severe reverses but who managed to gather together some more capital which he puts to many and often unscrupulous uses.  He is suave, smooth-tongued, affable, and hypocritical toward any one from whom he hopes to extract <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:money, and haughty and cold toward others.  He is always offering his services but never living up to his promises, and few admire or esteem him.  In his place of business, while there is considerable talk of the dollar, it is rarely in evidence.  It is my conviction, as well as that of many others, that his reputation for wealth and credit is largely fictitious.</p><P>The firm of [Aime&acute;] Hugues and [F. L. A.] Pioche<ANCHOR ID="n2">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: --Hugues came out on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: with us from Lima--acts as agent for our vessel.  They run a large and flourishing business, make everyone welcome, and look after all business carefully, but I am not sure how substantial they are.  Most of their capital is tied up in a building site located in the heart of the city which has a wooden house on it.  While their establishment looks prosperous what assets are there behind it?</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2">Pioche, the banker, was said to have been a lover of great enterprises and a generous patron of the fine arts.  The first railways in California--the Sacramento to Folsom and the Market Street railways--were organized by him.  He engaged in hydraulic engineering projects and constructed wharves and buildings in San Francisco.  He died by his own hand in 1872.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>I also called on Leon Bossagige [Leopold Bossange<ANCHOR ID="n3">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: ] and Co. This name recalls the famous theft of the Queen's necklace years ago in which one of his relatives, a jeweler, was the hero and victim.  His father is well-known in Paris, being head of a book-store.  Out here the son runs a commission house for miscellaneous merchandise.  He is a typical Parisian, a bon-vivant, obliging and well-mannered, easy of approach, animated, light-hearted, and always making things pleasant for everyone around.  He is the only man of affairs among my fellow-countrymen who has the hallmark of a gentleman.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3">This name appears in one account of the theft of the Queen's necklace, as Bassenge.  In some of the California records it is spelled as above.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>The fourth and last both as to rating and standing is the firm of Mulot [Mullot] and Callot.  Where have these rustic field mice come from, with their coarse manners, and red noses, their cheap language, and their constant gesticulating over the sundry articles in their store like so many angry men who believe they are accomplishing something just beacuse they are making a noise?  I know nothing about them or their connections.  If the saying, "as a man acts so he is," holds good, one reveals the other.</p><P>Callot began life as a strolling actor in Paris playing minor ro&circ;les in the Petit Lazare, a mediocre theatre in the Latin quarter.  After a long apprenticeship he passed on to the Varieties where he played third and fourth class ro&circ;les.  Finding his income inadequate both for his tastes and ambitions he finally realized it would be wiser to abandon this irksome and impecunious calling.  That is why he broke away from it.</p><P>About this time a daring diamond robbery had been perpetrated on a Mlle.  Mars, a popular actress, in Paris.  For a long time the papers were full of this audacious crime and how it had been accomplished.  In some mysterious way Callot came to be embroiled in this affair, either as a trusted employe in the house, an actor, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:an accomplice, or a fence for stolen articles.  Anyway he was so seriously compromised that he had to get out of the country immediately and so left for America before further complications came up.</p><P>To avoid all chance of being apprehended by the authorities he put between himself and his accusers the whole width of the Atlantic, the American Continent, and the Pacific Ocean, finally locating in the Hawaiian Islands.  Out there he heard of the gold discovery in California and, leaving the Islands early in 1849, he started over to the new El Dorado with a cargo of local products.  These he sold upon arriving for their weight in gold.</p><P>Purchasing some land at Sacramento he built a house, found a partner, and posed as a prosperous, honest, and reputable citizen.  But he had not counted on the influx of French immigrants who recognized him, and who did not like his haughty manners.  A few gossips exposed the story of his past which was soon known all over Sacramento.  Here you have the inside history of one of our most prominent French financiers in San Francisco.</p><P>Our remaining compatriots are merchants and owners of cafe&acute;s, cabarets and restaurants, and do not bear close inspection--although I know very little about them.  Of the restaurateurs the best known are these two: Louis Burthey, from St. Louis, in the department of the Su&circ;re (Upper Sao&circ;ne), who is called Baltimore because he used to cook there, and who now runs the Baltimore Hotel; and a Mr. Mondalet who also owns a restaurant.  To-morrow I am going to tell you about our titled aristocracy.  I have already met several typical ones.</p></DIV>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, Dec. 19, San Francisco Harbor</HI>
082.sgm:<P>Among my compatriots I would give the highest places to the Marquis of Franchlieu who is connected with a family in Senlis, to Count Gaston de Raousset-Boulbon,<ANCHOR ID="n4">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: a native of Avignon, and to Mr. de Bedoux, son of an ex-admiral and a passenger on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:.  All these, particularly the two former, are men of honor, courage, intrepidity, strength and intelligence.  Endowed with initiative, like so many others they have been cast by the hazards of revolution, dreams of fortune, and ambition, on the shores of California.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4">A notorious adventurer famous for his filibustering expedition into Sonora.  Cf. Daniel Le&acute;vy, <HI REND="italics">Les Francais en Californie</HI>
082.sgm:<P>While waiting for the time to be ripe to leave for the placers they have been organizing hunting parties and selling their game at advantageous figures.  They have also secured a boat and have started a ferry service back and forth across the bay from the ships to the shore carrying freight and passengers.  While very fatiguing, this work is highly remunerative.  I may be able to tell you more about them in the future; this is all I know for the time being.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:<P>A far more dynamic, loquacious, and brazen type is the Marquis of Pindray.<ANCHOR ID="n5">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: He is a weather-beaten man of fine build and regular features, muscles like iron, and the fascinating look of a bird of prey.  He has all the earmarks of a strayed sheep of the aristocracy about him.  Haughty, indifferent to human beings, the law, his own life, and that of his associates, he is a dangerous bully always ready with his sword or pistols.  Courageous even to recklessness he is cold and cruel in his daily dealings, but he also knows how, when the mood moves him, to be insinuating, ingratiating, and sugar-coated if it will serve his interests, his greed, or his pleasures.  He has a loud voice and a ready wit and expresses himself correctly in Spanish, French or English,--more than he needs to stage his exploits.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5">Said to have been of an ancient noble family in Poitou.  In 1851 he enrolled eighty compatriots and others for an expedition into Sonora to work the mines in the Apache country.  The venture turned out badly on account of Indian troubles and he finally established an agricultural colony at Cocospe&acute;ra where he soon afterwards died.  Cf. Saint-Amant, <HI REND="italics">Voyages en Californie</HI>
082.sgm:<P>With all his traits and faults he was born to be a popular demagogue, the general of an army, a great lord, or perhaps a bandit of the lowest order.  It is this latter ro&circ;le that he elects to lead here when hunting.  After a day passed in killing game he will go to one of the ranchos belonging to a native Californian who is not too particular.  Here he is made welcome for his charming manners and his ready conversation.</p><P>After considerable eating and drinking he will propose a game of monte which is eagerly accepted, all the Californians and Mexicans having a passion for gambling.  Close to daybreak he returns to San Francisco in his boat, after winning from one hundred to four hundred dollars from his host.  Once in, he walks boastfully up and down the streets, deer horns hanging from his neck, rabbits, ducks, a revolver and a sword dangling from his belt, and a gun slung across his shoulder.  He wears heavy boots, fawn-colored trousers, and a wide hat.  Often he is followed by a dead bear, pulled on a hand-cart, victim of his prowess as a hunter.  This wins him universal respect and admiration.  He is greeted and congratulated on his valor, his luck and his winnings.  All this is followed by a round of dissipation, lasting several days and nights, in the popular restaurants and cafe&acute;s with gay women, and in the gambling houses.  Here it comes to an end when he loses to a worse rascal than he is, what he had taken off the innocent <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
082.sgm:.  To be a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
082.sgm: is to be hunted as well!</p><P>In the city he is usually accompanied, or rather followed, by two satellites or parasites who live off him by flattery and adulation; men who are wholly depraved and vicious, whom this master of the fine art of filibustering treats like valets, using them in operations unworthy of his superior genius.  These two brothers came from La Chapelle--petty lordlings of mysterious ancestry--who appear to have descended from the lowest rung of the social ladder.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">San Francisco Harbor, Dec. 20, 1849</HI>
082.sgm:<P>In accordance with arrangements I had previously made for an extra fifteen days' board on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s,</HI>
082.sgm: Veron, Pidaucet, and I have the right to remain on her, and have food and lodging for that period without an extra drain on our purses.  This enables me to make preliminary preparations without heavy expenditures.  Notwithstanding, I have already spent one night in a tent where I slept on the ground.  Even so, when fatigued after a long day, sleep comes readily.  </p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:<P>I have put Pidaucet to cutting down some logs in the woods nearby and preparing the lumber needed to build our shack.  This building will be used not only for a store but also for sleeping quarters by putting in a platform a few feet off the ground large enough to hold Veron, Pidaucet, Vallet, his associate Blanc, Adolphe de Finance, Dr. Daing, and me.  Dr. Daing will live with us free of charge through the rainy season.  It is virtually conceded that in the spring we are to leave together for the placers and that we are to form a small company to go into anything that looks profitable.  I should have liked to include Dr. Briot in our association as well, but as he wanted half of our premises for his exclusive use our restricted quarters made this out of the question.</p><P>Here, for your edification, are the current quotations on staples in San Francisco.  These prices were quoted to me this morning.  Wine of the most ordinary quality, one piaster a bottle; bread, half a piaster, or 2 fr. 50 c, for a 14 ounce loaf; one small bottle of whiskey, one quarter of a piaster; meat, average price, 1 fr. 15 c; onions and potatoes 1 piaster per pound; a dozen small cabbages, 80 fr.; 110 pounds of hog, 80 fr.; sugar, 3 fr. 75 c per pound; candles, 10 fr.; fresh eggs, 30 fr. a dozen; preserved, 15 fr.; milk, 5 fr. a bottle.  A pair of boots worth 15 fr. in France costs 60 fr.; one worth 20, 80 fr.; raincoats sell at 300 to 400 francs.  Furniture and household goods are scarce and very high.  To-day I was offered a building 20x40 feet for 3000 piasters, spot cash, excluding the land.  A few months ago a certain business man invested in a building lot in a good location paying $4000 on which he built a store with $2000.  Today he can clean up a net profit of $10,000 on the whole thing.</p></DIV>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">San Francisco Harbor, Dec. 21, 1849</HI>
082.sgm:<P>Veron has been on shore only once; he is staying on the ship again to-night.  I go ashore daily, often spending the night there, but it is not pleasant with only a tent for shelter.  Pidaucet is staying with one or two congenial passengers whom I have assisted, while waiting for our building to be ready.  I am architect and contractor, Vallet is supervisor, and Pidaucet and Blanc are acting as workmen.  Within a few days it will be ready for occupancy.</p><P>The lumber purchased at Peru has proved a first-class and economical investment and will be adequate.  Here $300 is the rate asked for a thousand feet of lumber which in France would be worth from 50 to 60 francs.  My Peruvian dealings with Mr. Vallet, however, have not proved so fortunate in other respects.  The boat we purchased at half price was let down into the sea by the Captain the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:day after we got into port, to clean the decks.  This was done without my knowledge and permission as the ship had not passed the customs formalities.  As a result this skiff which I had counted on to transport my wares was knocked to pieces in the same storm, on the fifteenth and sixteenth, that caused so much damage to the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s.</HI>
082.sgm:<HSEP>Between you and me the Captain is legally responsible, but as it involves fifteen hundred to two thousand francs he will never pay, unless compelled to.  Yet I am hoping to collect damages.  Though we bought the boat largely on his recommendation, nevertheless, I have learned lately that he has been bragging of having advised the purchase to get freight and that, in his opinion, the skiff was worthless to use around San Francisco.  Of this none of us is convinced; but he will be made to suffer for this deception.  Bad faith and stupidity ought to be properly punished.  Let him laugh with his officers at our credulity and lack of knowledge in maritime matters.  Some day he will find out he too has been duped and that the joke is on him.</p></DIV>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">San Francisco Harbor, Saturday, Dec. 22, 1849</HI>
082.sgm:<P>The present provisional capital of California, which has not as yet been admitted as one of the States but is still a territory subject to the governor-general who resides at Washington, and which for this reason cannot make a constitution or enact legislation except for its individual cities, is the small town of San Jose&acute;.  This town, which is South of here, is located about ten kilometers in from the bay and about 50 kilometers from San Francisco.  It is reached by land, or even more comfortably, by water.  Its population is around twelve hundred.</p><P>Under Mexican rule it was the most northerly outpost [!] in California.  The only settlements beyond it were Santa Clara Mission, Mission San Jose&acute;, on the site of a hot spring, and Mission Dolores near San Francisco which was then nothing but a hamlet or whaling-station where an occasional whaler came to trade hides and fresh meat for the products of his own country.  The usual currency in such transactions was the hide of a cow or steer which represented one piaster.</p><P>Here and there at intervals of six leagues or so are located <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
082.sgm:.  Most of the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
082.sgm: are born musicians.  For servants they have Indians.  Usually they own many square leagues of land around their houses.  On these lands graze millions of heads of cattle, sheep, and horses.  Some time I may be able to to give you a more detailed description of this variety of the human species--a cross between a pure-blooded savage and civilized man.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:<P>The preceding is merely a re&acute;sume&acute; of conversations I have had with various acquaintances who have already been over the country.  While I am waiting for business to pick up I wander around, ask questions, and keep my eyes and ears open.</p></DIV>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">San Francisco Harbor, Sunday, Dec. 23, 1849</HI>
082.sgm:<P>I understand that nuggets of gold weighing from twenty to forty pounds are sometimes found.  This may be so, but up to the present the heaviest I have seen with my own eyes and touched with my own hands weighed forty ounces.  It was artistically marked by the pickaxes and looked like a tiny piece of metal cast in a piece of rock.  Golddust, commonly used in commercial transactions, does not seem so much like heavy or fine sand as it does like coarse bran.  In color it is closer to a dull yellow-brown than to a natural gold.</p><P>One ounce passes for sixteen dollars, somewhat less than its actual value.  Add to this the fact that the merchant's scales are not always accurate and you can readily see how the miner is frequently, if not invariably, short-changed.  Often, to counterbalance this, he attempts to doctor his gold-dust, or clean it badly; but the trader is always on the lookout for such gold and will not pay full price for any that looks black, or too heavy.  Usually only half price is offered to anyone who tries to fool them.</p><P>Today the customs officials confiscated the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: for carrying contraband on the grounds that foreign vessels plying on the Pacific Coast have no right to take on merchandise at intermediate ports of call.  The <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:, having taken on freight at Lima, had violated this agreement and so was seized.  Seventy-five other ships, among them two French vessels, which are lying here in port are victims of this same fate.</p><P>The Captains' agents and the consul are protesting vigorously, but the omnipotent head collector of customs is obdurate.  Each side claims to be in the right, and the affair threatens to take on the aspect of an international disagreement.  I am informed that a ship can only carry goods from her home port as authorized by owner and captain, who are held responsible for any infringement of this regulation.</p><P>But in a country like this where loyalty is an unknown factor, and where the wheels of justice grind slowly, legal costs are apt to exceed the value of what is in litigation.  And so, before filling the attorneys' pockets, it is well to know what you are doing.  If our own goods are confiscated our only redress will come from Joseph Lema&circ;itre, owner, and Captain Messmaker.  This episode is the beginning of trials and tribulations for those fine gentlemen and, whatever the penalty may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:<illus entity="a082-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Title and signature in the handwriting of Ernest de Massey.  Portion of page 226 of the MS. Journal.</p></CAPTION>
082.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">San Francisco Bay, Dec. 24, 1849</HI>
082.sgm:<P>Out here no one is ashamed of what he is doing no matter how humble it may be.  From day to day I see fine fellows from Paris, London, and New York carrying heavy trunks on their backs for persons whom, a year ago, they would not even have had as servants.  Lawyers, doctors, capitalists, and merchants who have no clientele, consultations, legal matters to attend to, or adequate credit, are forced, if they would eat or speculate, to black boots at the door of a restaurant or popular cafe&acute;, cook, or wash dishes.  At such tasks they can earn from twenty to fifty francs a day.  On this they can live in moderate comfort, if they are economical and industrious.</p><P>Another business consists in going out and cutting wood in the little forest on the outskirts of the village, which seems to have no owner and not to be under the supervision of any forest ranger.  Here anyone knowing how to handle a hatchet and saw can cut down about five loads of wood a day.  This is sold in the city at the rate of a dollar a load.  While I admit it is fatiguing yet the freedom of this life is ample compensation.</p><P>What will become of all our good friends of the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: in this letting down of all social restraints and barriers?  What if their plans miscarry?  I have already seen several of them looking worn and worried.  Men of intelligence eventually come to realize that the strong arm of the worker, plus the brains of the business man and capitalist united with order and economy are the basis of future prosperity in this new country.  That motto of the National Workers of Paris, "All for the Union," is interpreted out here as "Everyone for himself."</p><P>Pepin, who won a first prize given by the University of Paris for excellence as a plasterer, together with [Vicomte Jules] de France<ANCHOR ID="n6">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: who says he is descended from Robert the Brave, are planning to put on a skit with an actor from the Varieties called Jourdain who came out on the <HI REND="italics">Edouard</HI>
082.sgm: and who, in the interim, has gambled away his last piaster and is piling up bills at the hotels.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6">See page 27.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>Dr. Briot, assisted by Blandeau, son of a deputy from Doubs, Boillon, son of a manufacturer, Pepiquignot, called Gre&acute;sely, and Parisot--ancestry unknown--are attempting to manufacture lemonade and sell it at a fabulous figure.</p><P>Theologne, who comes from a line of Oriental scholars and who recently served as secretary to ex-minister Montalivet, is peddling oranges, cigars, matches, and other sundries.  With him is Fichaux, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PART IV<LB><HI REND="italics">To My Cousin Charles de Finance</HI>
082.sgm:<LB>A WINTER SPENT IN SAN FRANCISCO IN THE YEAR 1850.<LB><HI REND="italics">San Francisco, California, Feb. 1, 1850</HI>
082.sgm:<LB><P>Courage, ambition and energy are not enough, my dear friend, to carry one on to his goal; luck must also be with you.  In this, at least for the time being, I have been unfortunate.  On January first my shack was completed on the site of that great and growing cosmopolitan city called San Francisco.  There I installed myself with my associate Veron, my workman Pidaucet, and two other passengers from the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:, co-owners of the shack.  We also offered hospitality to your relative Adolphe de Finance, and to Dr. Daing, who accepted.</p><P>We unpacked our trunks and several small cases of merchandise and provisions which had come through the customs who very considerately passed them without inspection.  As for the main bulk of my wares shipped out as freight, that is another story!  We had to lose over eight days and make trip after trip through the mud and rain looking after them.  When you believe everything is perfectly legal then they refuse to pass your goods through, due to the omission of some formality the head customs-officials had neglected to point out.</p><P>The inspector of customs here is a Mr. St. Collier [Col. James Collier], a heavy-set busy-body, who by nature, or possibly from motives of personal interest, stands in with the assistants and agents who unite to squander money and discourage the importation of foreign merchandise.  Those who know American and International law are convinced he is over-stepping his legal rights.  It must be very expensive for the United States to have so rapacious a rascal at the head of the local customs.</p><P>Meeting with little success at the hands of the agent, a dyed-in-the-wool Yankee, who seemed to want to make me dance, I went to another agent who came of French parentage, but was an American from New Orleans.  He was well-mannered and spoke perfect French.  Being what the Yankees call "a very smart gentleman" he knew how to handle my matters.</p><P>My gravest obstacle was to provide proper security for the paying of duty on the goods I had left in the customs house, as I did not have funds enough to take them all out at the same time.  Their way of putting up a bond confused me as no one had told me how to arrange it.  In my ignorance and lack of knowledge I should never have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:able to procure proper security.  My new friend, Mr. de Peru, to whom I had made my position clear told me that, for the sum of two dollars, he would arrange it.  He found proper backing and relieved me of all responsibility.</p><P>Having thus fulfilled all requirements, I was permitted to take out what I thought I could sell, together with samples of what remained.  It was a relief when the trouble was over as I was growing gray-headed, and losing my appetite over it.  Much of my capital has gone into the coffers of the customs officials, and the unavoidable incidentals arising out of the customs.  As this must be built up again we shall have to sell everything we possibly can, even down to our personal belongings.</p><P>Of what use are overcoats, heavy coats, and riding coats, when a woolen shirt and a jacket will meet all requirements arising out of our present mode of living, a mode which, both physically and morally, is on a low level--without family, friends or even pleasant acquaintances, without wives, or the comforts of home, and surrounded by hotels, gambling-houses, and <HI REND="italics">cafe&acute;s-chantants</HI>
082.sgm:.</p><P>Whenever we meet a man of fine appearance he is apt to be a banker in a gambling den, a croupier, an accomplice, or a swindler.  Now and again happy miners are seen, men who have burned their bridges behind them and are returning to their own country by the first out-bound steamer.</p><P>I spend my days mainly at the store, waiting for customers.  I have enough spare time to separate my thirty-six per cent brandy and make kirsch and cognac, bottle them, and box them for the convenience of patrons.  The bottles and cases cost nothing.  All we have to do is to go out and gather them up off the main streets where they are thrown as a way of getting rid of useless and cumbersome articles, take them in, wash them, and pack them.  This is Pidaucet's task, in addition to collecting fuel.  Every morning he makes the rounds, bringing in cases, bottles and enough wood to carry us through the day.</p><P>To me falls the duty of transacting any business in the city, as no one else understands a word of English.  What little I know is a great help in getting around.  Veron has taken over the culinary department, keeping it, as well as the establishment, tidy.  To cook our food we improvised an oven out of earth where we prepare our daily repasts--Vallet, Blanc, de Finance, the Doctor, my two associates and myself--as best we can.  When the oven is not being used it serves as a place for carrying on my occupation of brandy-making.</p><P>Our food costs us very little.  We have one hundred kilogrammes of lard and bacon on hand, three hundred liters of wine, tea and coffee, sugar, vinegar, and olive-oil!  So all we need to buy is meat or bread occasionally.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>In the evenings we lay in a supply of trinkets, cutlery, haberdashery, matches, and sundries, close up shop, and go over to the gambling dens and <HI REND="italics">cafe&acute;s-chantants</HI>
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082.sgm:ruins?  What goods are saved often have to go to the creditors, and goods are usually only on consignment.  The loss probably has to be borne by the owners abroad, while those who were burned out often find themselves better off than before.  But despite these risks there will be no way of safeguarding property until the city is built of brick and stone--a matter of many more years.</p><P>The day after the disaster a group of workmen cleared off the debris and rubbish, and new houses of the usual wooden type soon sprang up as if by magic.  Within ten days no one would have ever known a fire had been there.</p><P>The amusing romance which began on board the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave; s</HI>
082.sgm: between Lieutenant Simon and Estelle has been revived again in as odd a manner as it began.  Leon Bossange having made some proposals to the woman, which did not pass by unheeded, Simon grew mad with jealousy and tried by a <HI REND="italics">cup d' e&acute;tat</HI>
082.sgm: to win back his fickle companion by promising to marry her.</p><P>Estelle accepted the proposal and, forty-eight hours later, became Mrs. Simon in the eyes of God and the Law.  Fifteen days later she accepted a position as actress in a local theatre--as an <HI REND="italics">inge&acute;nue</HI>
082.sgm:, I have no doubt.  Then she got a divorce and returned to Bossange, whom she found more amiable and less brutal.  This poor strolling actress, mistress, and heartless woman, has chosen her path in life; the theatre, the street, and the alcove.  This she may be able to follow for many years to come, for the stores carry chiffons, wigs and curls; the dentists teeth; and the perfumers, rouge to replace what is missing.  But what will be the ultimate outcome?  The Californians, however, have not yet reached the point of being overly particular.</p><P>While all this has been going on Adolphe de Finance and Dr. Daing have been visiting down in San Jose&acute;, the provisional capital.  There they got into touch with Mr. Langlois who welcomed them most cordially because of the message I sent from his brother at Ha&circ;vre.  He gave them all the information they asked for, but he can be of very little use to them, owing to his present depleted financial situation through poor investments, and the paralysis from which he is a constant sufferer and which may, at any time, prove fatal.</p><P>There is no activity in the capital other than commerce and agriculture.  Most of the population consists of Californians, Mexicans, Chileans, and half-savage Indians.  Spanish is the predominating language and the principal business transactions are carried out in that tongue.  As their tastes and habits differ materially from those of the Americans and Northern Europeans, what would readily sell in San Francisco would not be marketable in this village.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>They also met a Frenchman, of Besanco&cedil;n, and an acquaintance of Dr. Briot, by the name of Jourdain, who runs a local hotel and restaurant.  He had been in Mexico on some personal matters where he came to know a man called [Joseph Y.] Limantour who claimed he was grantee, by an act of the Mexican government prior to the annexation of California, of a large section of land, on a portion of which San Francisco is now located.  Jourdain is making his home at San Jose&acute; where he is supposedly representing the rights and interests--true or fictitious--of Mr. Limantour, whose property will soon become immensely valuable.  More than likely he is making his money out of the kind of gold-mining indulged in by judges and lawyers out here who command exorbitant prices.</p><P>Since our arrival three of the former passengers on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: have passed away.  The first to go was Theodora Shultz, the young German consumptive, who rallied slightly during the last months of the voyage, but who could neither live nor die.  The second is Bois de Latour, of whom I know practically nothing as there was little about him, no salient trait or characteristic, to make him stand out from his fellow-passengers.  The third is Gosselin, the former owner of a cafe&acute; at Ha&circ;vre, and a friend of de France and Lamole&grave;re,<ANCHOR ID="n7">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: a noisy, awkward, heavyset fellow who would be more at home in the steerage than the salon.  While acting as waiter in a cafe&acute; he fell a victim to his own greed and intemperance, his desire to live his youth over again, and while intoxicated fell down the stairs, broke his neck and, after fifteen days' suffering, died in an attic infested with worms and vermin.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7">Previously spelled De la Molle&acute;re: de Lamole&acute;re appears to be the correct form.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>De France has tried to launch a newspaper--buying an autographic press from Dr. Briot for the purpose--and after purchasing some paper on credit, published one edition.<ANCHOR ID="n8">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: It failed to sell, however; yet a few debts more or less mean nothing to this gentleman.  He suspended publication for fifteen days then found a new money-lender; but his second venture proved no more successful.  All this, nevertheless, fails to dampen his enthusiasm.  He has about one hundred different schemes in his head, all more or less visionary, for living in luxury at the expense of any simpleton who comes along.  The only things he expects to pay with are promises, flattery, or insinuating remarks.  This is a currency, he is clever enough to know, that never depreciates wherever it is used carefully.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8">The first French newspaper in California.  Undoubtedly this was the paper called <HI REND="italics">Le Californien</HI>
082.sgm:, which was said to have been "lithographed on a sheet of foolscap paper" and published on January 21, 1850.  It was said to have been resumed on March 28 of the same year and yet there is no definite notice of its having done so.  The place of publication was the "Maison Chauviteau" on Clay Street (see not 9).  On June 7, 1851, De France published another sheet, entitled <HI REND="italics">Revue Californienne</HI>
082.sgm:, only one or possibly two numbers of which were issued.  Cf. H. R. Wagner, <HI REND="italics">California Imprints</HI>
082.sgm:<P>New ships are entering the harbor daily.  They come from all over the world, and are loaded down with freight and passengers.  Usually they are unable to leave immediately, once they have entered, for the crews, as a general thing, desert, and no freight is obtainable.  As a result San Francisco presents to the eye the appearance of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:magnificent forest of masts, from which float the many colors of various maritime nations.</p><P>One of the latest arrivals is the <HI REND="italics">Cachalot</HI>
082.sgm: of Ha&circ;vre, Captain Le Grand.  The passengers on this vessel are so dissatisfied that they have taken vengeance for their bad treatment by denouncing the cargo as contraband.  This is bringing on legal proceedings which will force the owner to pay a heavy fine and probably cause the ship to be confiscated.  Everyone is laughing about the way Messmaker and Le Grand are being punished in the same manner, and how they are condoling with each other.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Succe&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:, a ship from Bordeaux, has just pulled into port.  Among the passengers on board is Oscar de Gaulne, who is bringing in some valuable merchandise.  Several years ago I met him at the home of Mr. de Houx of La Roche&grave;re and later he called on me at Passavant.  His father is a wealthy ship-owner at Bordeaux, and an old friend of Mrs. de Houx, the daughter of the Count de Grivel of Perrigny.  At the time he impressed me as being a foolish, weak character, a bon-vivant, and rather forward.</p><P>At that time I was told he was not on good terms with his father, who was avaricious, egotistical, and wedded to business, not pleasure.  The old gentleman watched his son's foolish expenditures regretfully, and, though he gave him a generous allowance, he refused to loosen his purse strings for promiscuous expenditures.  So I surmise the little scapegrace has left Bordeaux, Franche-Comte, where he was neither wanted nor needed, concluding to put an end to all paternal remonstrances, and the annoyance of pressing creditors.</p><P>My first impression of him here in San Francisco was that he had not changed, but after several meetings he told me his history with such frankness and such seriousness that I thought he had improved considerably.  He told me his goods had cost him nearly eighty thousand francs; that he intended to sell them off and open up a branch of his father's house in San Francisco; that he planned to represent several large houses in Bordeaux, and that every in-coming ship was bringing him fresh merchandise.  He also told me Mr. Chauviteau <ANCHOR ID="n9">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: was very close about money matters, and that he had had some excellent offers to go into business.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9">J.J. Chauviteau had a store on the Clay Street wharf at the end of Leidesdorff Street in 1850.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>While not wholly convinced yet I was somewhat impressed by his conversation.  But if he already has a desk in the office of his future partner who has come to an agreement with him, why is he living in idleness and spending the evenings at roulette--haughtily throwing a dollar on the red-and-black like an amateur for whom the dollar has no value--and then posing as a man of affairs before everyone who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:over all the low country as far as San Jose&acute; on the south, east as far as Mt. Diablo, covering the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys and forming an inland sea more than one hundred leagues in diameter.  In some prehistoric upheaval the rivers came into existence; while the general character of the land underwent a complete metamorphosis.  Mr. de Blangy, whom I have not met as yet but whose address has been found, will probably start for France at once to receive the inheritance left him by his father--some three hundred thousand francs or more--which he expected to have sent out to him here.</p><P>I shall take this opportunity to send you some letters, papers, and other items of minor interest.  Among these I am sending the reply I got from Mr. Langlois in San Jose&amp; to a letter which I sent him inclosing one from his brother who is in the post-office at Ha&circ;vre.  In it you will find considerable information about the country, written by a man who has made his home here for a number of years.  You can send it on to his brother as it may be the last time he will ever hear from him, for he is slowly dying.</p><P>His last days have been spent in untangling legal problems, between the Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Georges</HI>
082.sgm: and its owner Mr. Lamoisse on the one hand, and the ship's passengers on the other.  The owner at Ha&circ;vre has been sentenced to pay a fine of one hundred dollars, with interest, as damages to each passenger.  This makes a pretty penny for him to pay as there are from eighty to one hundred passengers in all.  Why could not the other passengers, who have equal grounds for complaint against their Captain, profit by this lesson?  Those on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: could easily claim redress, and if this were done often enough by passengers it might be of value to future travellers.</p><P>My fellow-passenger, Dechanet from Langres, is not finding San Francisco a bed of roses any more than the rest of us.  He accepts whatever he is offered.  Something seems wrong with him.  For one thing he is quite upset over not hearing from his wife who is the only soul in France who knows where he is, although outwardly she pretends to know nothing of him.  He will be agreeably surprised to hear of the inheritance that has just come to him, and of which I have been instructed to inform him.  He may not be as happy, however, to hear that he has recently become a father, for this is a situation in which he can claim no rightful part.  This new arrival at Cisey seems to explain why his wife has been so silent.  Nobody is perfect; the wife of this poor fellow is just another instance of what is found everywhere.</p><P>I have not been lucky in my choice of acolytes for my commercial dealings.  Alexander is energetic enough but he spends most of his time doing things that are useless, and the slightest remonstrance  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:victorious Americans, were unable long to enjoy the fruits of their plunder.  The immense herds that were confiscated--the most tangible assets of this unjust procedure--soon died from exposure in the rainy season, while agile outlaws of many nationalities did not hesitate to shoot them down and sell the hides under the very eyes of the local police who were incapable of suppressing this petty thievery.</p><P>In connection with Mission San Francisco Dolores there is a dilapidated chapel or shelter that is notable mainly for its three crumbling adobe pillars supporting the pediment which adorns the facade.  This is now occupied by a Mexican priest and a French vicar from the diocese of Paris who are connected with the Association of Foreign Missions.  The cure&acute; is devoted to the Church as it was the former residence of the Franciscan Fathers.</p><P>I went inside and chatted for a time with the vicar.  From him I learned that a suit is now pending between the California Missions and the United States Government relative to the properties that are still in the hands of the Catholic Church--a suit they have slight chance of winning since the decision rests with the United States Court.</p><P>About one hundred and twenty persons live around the Mission.  Most of them are Mexicans, Indians, or half-breeds;  Europeans and Americans are in the minority.  There is no business activity here beyond the raising of garden produce which brings in quick returns.  Everything else is at a standstill.  An <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
082.sgm:, a combination of mayor and justice of the peace found in Spanish countries, is the sole person in authority.</p><P>A little brook, green with water-cress, ran through a field where narcissus and violets grew up around the houses.  From idle curiosity and as a concession to our future ro&circ;le of gold-diggers, we attempted to wash some sand dug out of the brook.  While the attempt was harmless enough yet it was fruitless, for we found only a few glistening grains of yellow mica.</p><P>On this trip I had a chance to talk with an Indian who spoke French as brokenly as I did Spanish.  He offered to act as my servant saying he could garden, lasso horses and wild cattle, and tame them--all for the sum of thirty dollars a month.  He also told me that a good horse could be bought for sixty dollars.  This is not dear in comparison with other prices.  On the other hand some lands near the Mission and capable of being cultivated--some fifty acres in all--have just been rented for the unprecedented amount of forty-five hundred francs a year by the <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
082.sgm: at the Mission.</p><P>After this pleasant day spent out in the open under a radiant sun such as we have in France during May, we returned in the late <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:afternoon to our dwelling ready again to resume our life of drudgery and to mark time in the deadly mire of San Francisco.  Most of our passengers on the trip out who are living here have been ill in one way or another, mainly with fever and dysentery.</p><P>The change in climate, food, and occupation, camping out in the rainy season, intemperate living, and the unhealthy conditions of the streets--twenty thousand citizens throw their refuse out into the mud and slime to decompose--are quite enough to make serious inroads on the constitutions of even the strongest.  Our own small group has been fairly immune, thanks to the hygienic way in which we live, to the medicine we take, and to our diet--chiefly of rice.  No one has been seriously ill.</p><P>To-day is the fifteenth of February, 1850; just two months ago I first put foot on this promised land of California which, in these two long months, has failed to fulfill any of its promises.  These have been trying months both for body and soul.  In the main they have been spent in searching, though ineffectually, for my dream-castles in Spain.  All my hopes and my resources, as well as those of others entrusted to my care, are fast disappearing.  My hair has grown quite gray, a thing which makes a young and energetic man appear ridiculous.  On the long voyage out, however, I turned this whole situation over in my mind and was prepared to struggle; and struggle I will!</p><P>I have just written Armand to sell everything I own and liquidate my French securities.  I can now see that I may have to stay here longer than I had expected.  Who knows from the way things are now going when I shall ever return, for I will never come back unless I can make a success of this undertaking.</p></DIV>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">San Francisco, March</HI>
082.sgm:<P>I spent the last fortnight in February auctioning off all the merchandise I could sell at retail before March first when the ground-lease on the site where I built by shack expires.  This method of liquidation is always disastrous.  We also sold off whatever personal belongings we no longer needed to the miners, who are always our best customers.  I first planned to store away most of our things in trunks and leave them behind until we got back from the placers, but our urgent need of money, the fear of fire, and the cost of holding them made me change my mind.</p><P>I left with the customs all our tools and about nine hundred liters of kirsch, at present unsalable.  I still have eight months to get them out again--and many things can easily happen in the interim.  The lumber in our buildings was sold off for sixty-five dollars and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm: who owned the land on which they were laid out--Stockton, and Joaquin City, the shrewd capitalists who bought up lots at the opening have since realized enormous profits.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10">Marysville was named for Mary Murphy, a survivor of the Donner party.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>To-day reckless speculation is going on in San Francisco down by the water-front along Montgomery Street, which is so near the bay that the water comes up all around the last houses on the east side of the street.  Furthermore, a plot of the city shows these lots to extend for three hundred meters into the bay.  Every day building lots are sold which, at high-tide, are from one to three meters under water and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:afternoon sitting, or rather doubled up, on my mattress which serves as a sofa.  An old box acts as table.  Naudet and Veron, one on my right and the other on the left, are each making a tent out of the bedding in imitation of the way we shall pitch our tents out at the placers--probably those on the Trinity River.</p><P>These lie about sixty leagues north of the coast on a bay bearing the same name.  This entire region is reputed to be rich in gold and is virtually virgin country.  It is inhabited by some inferior savages given to plundering and petty thievery.  It has at last been decided that Veron, Pidaucet, and I--as well as Naudet who asked to join us--are to go out and mine together.  A few ships are already preparing to sail when they have adequate freight and passengers.  But all this will take time, as no one as yet has any definite news about this unexplored region.</p><P>Now and again in the gambling houses, we run across a certain person who is known as the Count of Campora and who claims to have been a Lieutenant in the Fourth Hussars.  With him is a young girl, or woman, whom he introduces as the Countess of Campora.  To judge by her charms, her conversation, her occupation--she is a croupier in the gambling dens--and the anecdotes circulating about her, she is far from being a Countess.</p><P>But she is generally accepted as the Countess, and is known as <HI REND="italics">La Campora</HI>
082.sgm:.  She is said to come from Chambray where she was brought up in some obscure convent.  If her appearance were more prepossessing she could make a fortune.  Her psuedo-husband is most amicably doing nothing, and leading a care-free existence.  Chambray is another gentleman who makes holes in the moon in anticipation of arriving there in the future.</p><P>Captain Sutter, to whom we owe the discovery of gold in California, owns an immense stretch of land along the Sacramento River and its tributaries.  He has brought his family over from Switzerland.  The towns of Marysville and Eliza City, named for his daughters,<ANCHOR ID="n10a">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: are on his property.   If he had more of the Yankee in him he today would be one of the richest capitalists in the whole world; but unfortunately much of the vast fortune that seemed to turn his head got away from him.  His followers have tricked, deceived, and plundered him; taking advantage of his weakness for drink they have persuaded him into making transactions involving land-concessions which contain clauses so cunningly worded that they have brought on ruinous and endless litigation.  According to local opinion within a few years he will be completely ruined by those whom he formerly aided.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10a">Marysville was named for Mary Murphy, a survivor of the Donner party.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>The United States Government owes to him much of the recent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:prosperity of California--the new star that will soon appear on the American flag--yet it is disputing his titles of ownership and is trying to get away his lands.  In this war of avarice, which is being staged at local courts with the ultimate conflict to be held at Washington, the Captain is waging a fight single-handed.</p><P>To try and save some of his properties not in litigation he is obliged to sell or hypothecate other properties.  Thanks to the money lenders, the lawyers, the business men, the judges, and all the vultures who surround him and fight for his fortune, it runs the grave risk of soon being dissipated.</p><P>I had thought of arranging for an interview with him to ask him for a concession in case I was unsuccessful at the placers, but after I heard about his embarrassing situation and his following I gave up the idea.</p><P>Mr. de Lambertye, a resident of Angoumois, has arrived here with de Gaulne on the <HI REND="italics">Succe&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:, with a shipment of wares.  Unfortunately shippers seem to imagine that the climate of San Francisco is like that of Provence and have shipped out an avalanche of summer garments that have no market.  Even at the mines, where the heat is intense during the summer season, trousers, and a woolen shirt, constitute the typical miner's costume.  Here the weather, while never actually cold, is crisp all year around and those who are used to it do not even wear overcoats.</p><P>Mr. de Lambertye seems to be a sensible and well-educated man.  These many new arrivals in this country give the impression of a kind of crusade into the Holy Land, present-day California; faith is love of wealth, and the sepulchre is the mountain that holds the native gold in gigantic blocks-now in the hands of infidel Indians.</p><P>In the past, as in the present, the mass of crosses might well be the graves of all classes of society.  Man, as a general thing, does not leave hearth and family to seek adventures in foreign lands unless consumed by ambition, love of gold, science, or religious ardor, or unless he has some duty to fulfill, some disaster to repair, some fault to forget, some sin to hide or, perhaps, some rope to evade.</p><P>On April first I received a bundle of letters from France. Among them was one from Adelstan written at Lasnes and one from the family at Passavant, together with a dozen packages of papers on which the postage must have come to at least two dollars.  How was it that the letters I sent should have cost nearly thirty francs in addition to what I paid out at this end?  Your letters were slow getting out to me; the post-mark showed they were mailed last December and January.</p><P>My mind is already made up, in a few days we are going to start <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:for the placers of Trinity River.  I do not know how far they are from San Francisco--some say one hundred leagues, others one hundred and fifty--but they cannot be far from the Oregon frontier.  Ships are leaving every day for this country; it is all the rage at the present.</p><P>The Government has sworn in one hundred men at ten dollars a day to keep off the Indians--scant protection against several thousand savages for the hundreds of camps situated along a stretch of at least fifty leagues.  To-day we gave notice to Mr. Ward, from whom we rented a room for a month at one and one-half times the usual rate, that we were going to leave and now we are living in a tent until time to start for the placers.</p><P>Even now it is so warm that I have retired to the office of de France--which fortunately costs him nothing--to write this.  He already owes rents to Mr. Chauviteau, which he has promised to pay when he has funds.  But as he will never have any this proprietor will probably have to wait with the others.  Much to my surprise this rascal was not malicious and cruel to the cure&acute;.</p><P>I wish you could have seen what I saw to-day at the offices of Green &amp; Hodden, San Francisco business men, and jokingly called a California vegetable--a gold-nugget found in the Sonora placers weighing 22 pounds and 2 ounces.  It was purchased for ten thousand dollars.  Out here, at least, they lose no time!</p><P>Fitzgerald, a passenger on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s,</HI>
082.sgm: who took Valet and Dr. Daing to the mines located on the South Fork of the Yuba River, got back to-day and when I ran across him on the streets he told me he had seen a mule loaded with two hundred pounds of gold that a single individual had taken out in a few months.  I am surprised all heads are not turned at such amazing opportunities.  True, this is exceptional and in addition to this fortunate miner, Fitzgerald, there are many others less robust, less lucky, and less energetic whose day's work runs from one ounce all the way down to nothing.  In the majority of the placers the daily profits of a miner are computed to be from four to five dollars.<HSEP>A tragedy that has just happened in one of the most influential American families in San Francisco has cast a pall over the entire city.  I heard the details from the cure&acute; on whom Oscar de Gaulne and I were calling.  Several years ago Frank Ward, a member of the Ward family of New York consisting of three brothers, Frank, James (whose room I rented) and Charles--fell in love with a rich New Yorker, whom he could not marry because of the difference in their standing.  Disheartened, deeply in love, and full of ambition and courage, he left for Mazatlan, Mexico, with his two brothers.<HSEP>There he established a banking house which prospered from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>All this is ably confirmed by the following story of a merchant out here who in 1838 left home--he did not say whether it was due to politics, passions, or financial troubles--and went out to Egypt at the head of a party of Maronites and made war against the Pasha.  For his courage and services rendered in this insurrection he received from the local government the title of Emir and in 1840 was employed by the sultan against the Egyptian Pasha.</p><P>But subsequent treaties wrecked his career which, if not bereft of danger, at least had its picturesque angle, stimulating his ambitions and satisfying his longing for activity.  He returned to France where, up to 1849, he lived an obscure existence which he never mentions.</p><P>Toward the end of that year he came to California with a capital of some two thousand dollars.  He tried his hand at everything.  At the placers his mining was a failure.  Out there he fell ill and, having exhausted his capital, returned to San Francisco, broken in mind and body.  He is now leaving for the Hawaiian Islands where he hopes to develop and plant some acreage for the ruler of Hawaii and instead of being Emir he plans to become a gardener.</p><P>This same Mr. de Homfrey, who is quite distinguished looking, must have had great sorrow in his lifetime to judge by his slow steps, his bent figure, and his face which bears the marks of sorrow and disappointment more than age.  He has an air of resignation about him much like that of a man who is about to put his last penny and his last drop of blood on the red or the black.  May the wheel of fate be propitious, for his appearance and his voice arouse sympathy in me which I cannot evade.</p><P>Quite the opposite feelings were inspired by the tales of Mr. de Lamole&acute;re of the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&acute;s</HI>
082.sgm:.  He must lack judgment, or be devoid of common sense to discuss his past as naively as he did with me recently when he told me he came to California because his father was in love with his mistress and that he had been forced to leave the paternal roof.  A quarrel having come up between him and his father the result is that he is going to lose the major portion of the paternal heritage which he had counted on to make up the losses he had suffered in some agricultural venture.  This fact is not in itself surprising, but what does astonish me is that he tells a stranger about it.</p><P>Our own dailies are full of worse scandals than this, yet details are not known to the public; it is considered cowardly to air family skeletons, particularly for a son to accuse his father and discuss his private affairs with a stranger except under extenuating circumstances, even if Lamole&acute;re Senior is brutal, bitter, bestial, and careless of his words and deeds.  I predict that the young man cannot carry on a successful business out here.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm: of one hundred and fifty tons, owned by Sullivan and Booth.  I have guaranteed to furnish the passengers.  Five of us are starting off together, our one idea being mutual aid and cooperation in working the placers if it seems expedient.  These arrangements were made largely for Naudet who wishes to join Veron, Pidaucet, and me.  Whatever motives I might have for leaving these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:fellow-passengers from the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: I shall never abandon the last two members despite the erratic character of my cousin and the inherent worthlessness of my workman.</p><P>Having laid in our slim supplies of provisions, tools, ammunition, arms, camping equipment, a boat worth about two hundred and fifty dollars, and the sum of one thousand francs which we are taking along for emergencies, we are now ready.  In addition we have some two hundred and eighty dollars worth of merchandise left which could be cashed in for at least one hundred and fifty dollars, and two lots of nominal value.</p><P>After talking with de Gaulne I gave into his keeping our surplus funds and our valuables.  I also gave him the right to take in any goods that might arrive while I am away at the mines on this one condition: that on any funds he is obliged to advance me on short time, commensurate interest will be paid for the time the money is in transit at the rate of 6% a month.  As a rule the current rate is 10% a month, with a security of buildings or merchandise.  So I think I have made an excellent and far-sighted as well as a safe arrangement, for it is well known that de Gaulne and Mr. Chauviteau are about to form an association.</p><P>I am leaving for an indefinite period in which many things may happen and as I may never return alive from this wild and savage country I thought it best to give you some addresses in San Francisco where you could write in case of emergency and get some trace of me.  They are as follows: the Consulate; the firm of de Gaulne and J. J. Chauviteau; Pioche and Bayerque;<ANCHOR ID="n11">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: Mullot and Callot, L. Bossange and Colliard; and Gardet at San Francisco.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11">Pioche and Bayerque had their store on the north side of Clay Street just below Kearny.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm: sails tomorrow morning.  Adolphe de Finance is preparing to come overland in a short time and join us.  He is detained here for the present.  This will be a hard trip for him with no roads and guides and over an unknown country.  I offered to advance him the price of his ticket on the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm:, but he is so diffident that he will not accept.</p><P>So far, dear cousin Charles, I have given only a brief sketch of the more superficial aspects of this future Queen of the Pacific during the winter of 1850 when she was making her bow to the world.  I cannot say whether my sketch is an absolutely true one but if the original is not flattering do not blame me, for this is exactly the way she appeared to me from my particular point of vantage.  But in all fairness I must praise, in concluding, the saner side of this young and eccentric city.</p><P>Some Jesuit Fathers who came out here in 1842 [1848] conceived the idea of building a Catholic Church as the population, already large, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:had no suitable place of worship.  As lands were high, wages out of sight, and money scarce, as soon as they arrived they started a subscription list which met with unexpected success.  Among the subscribers the Protestants contributed one thousand dollars.  Where, in old world annals, could you find a similar instance of religious tolerance?<ANCHOR ID="n12">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12">Fathers Langlois and Blanchet founded St. Francis Church on Vallejo Street in 1849.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>With this pertinent question and with my own personal admiration for this new city I must bring to a close this fourth chapter of my adventures.  I am beginning to feel the need of coming into closer contact with nature to heal my wounds, born of the trials and tribulations which have beset me since the day I landed in San Francisco, and I hope to acquire fresh strength by coming into contact with Mother Nature in her most primitive state, to study the Indians who are our closest representatives of pre-historic man, and above all else, to search for and find some gold-nuggets.</p></DIV>
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082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PART V.<LB><HI REND="italics"><LB>To my dear aunt, Marie-Colombe Arulith de Massey, ne&acute;e Barthelemy.<LB>In memory of my uncle, Alexandre Frederick Auguste de Massey, whose memory I shall always cherish in consideration of his constant affection for me, I am sending you, without any preamble, this account of my trip to the placers of Trinity River, the most picturesque and most checkered, though perhaps the saddest and most unpleasant part of my adventures</HI>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SCYLLA AND CHARYBDIS<LB>SAVAGES, MINES, AND MISERY.</HEAD>
082.sgm:<P>On Wednesday, April 3, 1850, we sent our baggage on board the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm:.  She was to take us to the Trinity for the sum of thirty-five dollars apiece and forty-four dollars for all our freight.  Under the agreement we had the privilege of staying an extra forty-eight hours on board.  The statements, made by the owner and captain of this vessel, which had been posted around the town and inserted in all the dailies, praised her in glowing terms as "The Splendid Bark Hector," though actually she is the worst ship in the harbor.</p><P>She leaks all over and has inadequate accommodations for carrying passengers.  Though she was built to carry a maximum of thirty passengers yet there are sixty-six of us on board without counting the crew, most of whom are French sailors.  Among the latter are the son of Admiral de Bectoux, who was a passenger on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:, and Mr. Villeneuve, who is also the son of an admiral.  But anything is possible in this amazing country of incongruous situations and strange customs.</p><P>Oddly enough I ran across Mr. St. Cintin de Baudry here on board.  He is a man of good character, but improvident.  He knew one of Charles de Finance's friends out in Africa, a painter called de Proux from Versailles, a man of legitimist leanings.  In 1848, while travelling along the upper Sao&circ;ne, he dined with Mr. De&acute;ge&grave;ne de Jonvelle who made him a present of several antiques.  This drew his attention to art and he began to pose as an artist and an art collector as well, going round with a palette and brushes.  To-day these have been replaced by the pick-axe and shovel.</p><P>Another odd type here on board is a dramatic artist from Paris who acted in a small theatre there and who has plenty of nerve, courage, and self-confidence but is so careless and light-hearted that any one might think he held a contract as an important impresario.  He will be able to give the savages some first-class skits even though he is living a life of hard manual labor and perhaps misery.  From force of habit he is always the comedian, even here on board the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm:.  To <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<illus entity="a082-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Advertisements of vessels sailing for "Trinidad Bay," published in the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
082.sgm:, San Francisco, March 21, 1850, and another advertisement of "The Splendid Bark <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm: " from the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
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082.sgm:my way of thinking this man--who is known as De Lamarre--is endowed with a most fortunate character, for he bears misfortune cheerfully.  I prophesy with a certain feeling of assurance that he will never be very successful.  With him is associated a Mr. Peron, formerly a merchant in Paris, and who has now barely what he needs for mining.</p><P>All the Frenchmen who are travelling on the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm: came to San Francisco either on the <HI REND="italics">Edouard</HI>
082.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Souffrey</HI>
082.sgm:, or the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:.  Of them all by far the most amusing, the drollest, the most ridiculous, the most often drunk, and the most repulsive is a man named Campbell, who hails from Sydney and who may possibly be an escaped convict.  As he does not speak French he is not aware how generally he is disliked by everyone.</p><P>The Master, after God, of our little ship and our small world is Captain Kempt.  This commander, in whose hands providence has placed us, is a man close to thirty.  Inclined to corpulency and with the jovial air of the gourmand, the <HI REND="italics">bonvivant</HI>
082.sgm:, he represents the lowest type of pure-blooded Yankee, a man equally careless of his own life, the lives of his passengers, and the safety of his vessel.  He sleeps or drinks all day long and drinks and gambles through the night.  While never actually drunk, yet he is ugly and cruel to the crew and even to the passengers who join him in his nightly dissipations.</p><P>His one aim is to relieve them of all their money before drowning them, wrecking them on the coast, or forcing them off the ship--who can tell what might happen with such a captain?  A sailor by accident, he is indifferent to his tasks and responsibilities.  I even long for old Captain Messmaker of the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: who, even if he cared little about the welfare of his passengers, cared so much for his ship that he could not rest when she was in the slightest danger.  He was also sober--luckily for the owners, shippers, and any travellers who were crossing on her.</p><P>Our present situation is very different.  We are starting off for the unknown with a wild adventurer who cares nothing for his own skin or the lives and property of others.  Everyone is finding quarters wherever there is any free space available; the best goes to the first arrival.  I do not know what difference there is in price, but I do know there is practically no difference in the comfort of the accommodations.</p><P>My own living quarters are on the lower deck opening off the main cabin.  The Irishman [!] Kempt has installed himself over me so that I am exposed to all the trials and tribulations of his constant intemperance.  Even if I escape sea-sickness how can I escape the results of his drinking?  My one hope is that the passage will last only eight days; in this lies my one and only consolation.</p><P>On Thursday morning we finally got under way, but as there was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:no wind we made about two miles, then came to anchor.  The Captain and the lighter-hearted and more jovial of the passengers passed the night drinking and singing.  I am afraid I have very little sympathy with them.</p><P>Friday, April fifth, at ten in the morning, we passed out of the Gate under a good stiff breeze.  A number of ships were coming into the harbor; the lure of California, it seems, is as strong as ever.  Among these vessels we passed the <HI REND="italics">Civilian</HI>
082.sgm:, one hundred and forty-three days out from Boston with a full passenger-list.</p><P>On Saturday, April sixth, we had a brisk favorable wind in the night with fog in the morning.  My travelling-companions, Veron and Naudet (called de Courcelle) are both sea-sick as usual, while I have a slight headache.  On a ship like the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm:, (and it is not the only one) this is the kind of food we have: no bread, no wine, no brandy, salty bacon and beef highly seasoned with pepper, salt, and spices.  Three meals a day are served.  For breakfast and lunch we have our choice of tea or coffee, sweetened with a poor grade of brown sugar.  Our third meal consists principally of biscuits and water.</p><P>This evening the Captain got up a game of monte--a Spanish card game--and lost several hundred dollars; the Captain is an expert gambler and many will soon find their purses empty with such sharpers--men whom they do not know to be honest--and where cheating is so easy.  Plain common sense and not virtue warns me to keep away from it and watch from the side-lines, as Veron and I are now doing.  The Captain has just lost quite a considerable sum of money but, sly player that he is, he has done this to entice the foolish to join his gambling table.</p><P>On Sunday, April seventh, I saw a Cape off toward the east which proved to be Cape Mendocino.  Advising the captain of my discovery he veered off a little from the route--though he acted as if he did not like to bother with such trivial matters.  The wind being contrary we made little headway.</p><P>We sighted land two miles away on Monday, the eighth.  From the distance it looked partly barren and partly wooded with several snow-covered peaks in the distance.  At four in the afternoon we headed off-shore.  After dinner a game of monte was started, the banker winning one hundred and fifty dollars, a sum large in proportion to the pecuniary resources of the players.</p><P>Naudet, though invariably stingy and mean under all conditions, is one of the most ardent players.  Evening after evening he risks relatively important sums of money.  Such conduct makes me suspect that our partnership will be of short duration.  The total capital he is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm: just as he was on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: every time we had bad weather, and Campbell is always drunk.  Night after night as I sleep below them I get little rest or quiet.</p><P>Again on the fifteenth the bad weather was still with us but on the sixteenth the sun came out, the wind turned in our favor, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:Captain finally deigned to look for our harbor.  We have been making six knots towards the northeast.  The evening games have grown very animated and over four hundred dollars has been lost at a sitting.  Several players are completely bankrupt; others have lost a half or three-quarters of their capital.  Our friend Naudet has left about three hundred dollars on the green carpet of the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm:.  Though it is now impossible for him to fulfill any of the promises he made me, yet we are still associates while at sea.</p><P>On Wednesday, April seventeenth, we sighted the coast about five miles away.  Toward the north we could make out Cape St. George[?]; it is very wooded and hilly.  The Captain lowered a boat to reconnoitre along the mouth of the Rogue [Klamath?] River--a name full of promise--but the skiff leaked so badly that after two hours of ineffectual effort they were forced to head about and return to the ship.</p><P>With such equipment as the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm: carries and with a Captain like Kempt who runs any kind of risk, I cannot help thinking that the owner and Captain are working against the insurance companies who cover the passengers and cargo, and that what they want and hope for is a wreck.</p><P>Thursday, April eighteenth, in spite of the rain that hid the horizon as luck would have it we pulled in to a bay in front of what looked like an island.  Behind this island rose a plateau covered with virgin forests; the surf and the rocks were in the foreground.  The more optimistic passengers thought this was Trinidad or Trinity Bay.  All the skeptics doubted it.  However, two small cannon were shot off--they were weather-beaten from being out on deck--by way of saluting this virgin country and announcing its invasion by vagabonds and outcasts from the Old World.</p><P>It is now nine in the morning just an hour since we dropped anchor here in this small harbor and gave a salute with our rusty artillery.  We may be able to avoid misery and shipwreck, Indians and bears--we can always struggle against these odds--but it is impossible to escape the intemperance, inefficiency, and brutality of Captain Kempt, who is a real menace to the passengers.</p><P>The harbor, if the shelter where we are anchored can be so designated, is a poor one, and exposed to the northwest [?] winds, which are very violent and frequent in this neighborhood.  The bottom is also soft, the anchors drag easily, and the ship might easily be thrown up on shore.  Though a mile off shore we are surrounded by reefs.</p><P>Trinity Bay is twenty miles long.  Our ship is lying in its northern end.  As there are no rivers near here we have no use for small boats.  This is fortunate as mine would have been useless except for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:duck-hunting in good weather.  Several rivers, so I understand, are supposed to empty into the bay, one about ten miles and another fifteen miles below here.  Of this fact the sailors have no definite knowledge; all they know is that the village of Trinity [Trinidad], situated on Trinity Bay, is not at the mouth of the Trinity River, although the names are identical.  Such inaccurate information is often very misleading.  Around here it is said that the Trinity, like the Salmon, is one of the branches of the Klamath River which empties into the ocean near the boundary of Oregon.  Explorers and sailors as yet know comparatively nothing about this country.</p><P>Three more embryo villages which need only capital and labor to expand and prosper are just being laid out on the shores of the bay, south of Trinity City.  These are Humboldt, Eureka, and Union Town.<ANCHOR ID="n13">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: The latter lies upon a little creek inaccessible except to skiffs and barges but which, since it lies closer to the placers, is more likely to become a center for supplies and merchandise.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13">Soon afterward renamed Arcata.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>On Friday, April nineteenth, we had nasty weather with some rains and violent winds which blew so hard that the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm: broke away from one of her anchors.  If the other also breaks we shall be smashed against the rocks.  As a precaution I am sending Pidaucet on shore with what materials are needed to erect our tent.  We shall all go ashore as soon as we have proper shelter.</p><P>The passengers who failed to make arrangements to remain a few additional days on board ship have been mercilessly put off on shore by the Captain, together with all their belongings, in spite of their pleas, the storm, and the blackness of the night.  Such barbarous conduct, conduct worthly only of an ogre, a brigand, or a brute, justifies my impression of the man the first time I had any dealings with him.  In my particular case he is bound to allow me to remain on board forty-eight hours longer, but I am in a hurry to get away from the vessel of whose Captain I shall always retain the most unpleasant memories.</p><P>On Saturday, April twentieth, my friends and I left the ship with our supplies and luggage, and installed ourselves in our tent overlooking the sea which commands a view of some fifteen [kilo] meters.  There is no beach at high tide although at low tide it extends many meters.  From it a steep bank arises abruptly.  On its summit is the site of the young settlement.  At present this is nothing more than a large flat area covering seven or eight hectares.  It is completely surrounded by the sea and the virgin forests--which will soon fall before the axe of the American settler.</p><P>Thirty tents and three houses now under construction comprise the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:village [Trinity City, now called Trinidad].  Plans have been made, however, for dividing it into enough lots, streets, and public places to hold twenty thousand inhabitants, with room for further expansion.  My personal opinion is that this village has no great future.  The harbor is dangerous, and there are no large streams or rivers accessible, merely some springs near the sea.  Its future will be determined largely by the wealth of the placers.</p><P>Since the arrival of the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm: the population here has been temporarily doubled.  The miners, most of whom have only scanty resources, only remain long enough to rest and get what information they can as to routes and directions.  Nevertheless, the information here is hardly more reliable than what we got in San Francisco.  The last miners who went out have not come back and nothing has been heard from them.  What news we have been able to gather here was given us by ex-trappers from Canada who came overland in the gold rush from their English dominion and down into California where they discovered[!] the Trinity and its placers and who wintered along the rivers and environs.<ANCHOR ID="n14">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14">Major P. B. Reading, an American from Sutter's Fort, discovered the Trinity placers the previous year.  The Canadians found him there when they first came into the country.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>From their extravagant remarks it was first believed that a remarkable region had been discovered.  Rumors spread like lightning, with the help of speculators and charlatans, that this country contained immense riches.  This is why I, together with many others, am now camping here by the bay, with the sea and the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm: spread out before me, and a wilderness and unknown perils ahead of me.</p><P>This tiny hamlet is controlled by an <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
082.sgm:, a Spanish[!] official who, at the approaching elections, will be replaced by a mayor.  This local <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
082.sgm: is a kind of petty monarch with almost unlimited civil and judicial authority.  The first settlers, by virtue of their right as pioneers, took possession of plots measuring one hundred and sixty acres (one acre equals forty-one ares) starting from the sea and going back as far as the forest.  These they have already resold at good prices as building lots to those who have confidence in the future.<ANCHOR ID="n15">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15">Captain Warner's account of the founding of Trinidad, Trinity City or "Warnersville," as he chose to call the town, is found, as quoted from the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
082.sgm:, in the <HI REND="italics">History of Humboldt County</HI>
082.sgm:, San Francisco: Elliott and Co., 1882, p. 101.  Here a townsite had been laid out shortly before by R. A. Parker.  The place was abandoned, however, and Captain Warner of the brig <HI REND="italics">Isabel</HI>
082.sgm:<P>The shore and regions around the bay are inhabited by Indians, who live in <HI REND="italics">rancherias</HI>
082.sgm: or settlements which lie two or three leagues apart, and are made up of four or five huts, each of which houses one or more families.  The native huts are made out of boards which are not sawed but split, much as planks are split for staves.  Having no knowledge, till now, of such tools as the saw and the hatchet, they have managed nevertheless, to get planks from two to five meters in length and from thirty to forty centimeters in thickness by using fire, wedge-shaped stones, and wooden mallets.</p><P>Digging foundations about a meter deep first, planks are erected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:on them overlapping one another.  These, plastered with mud, form the walls.  More planks are laid on top to form the roof.  These huts have no windows or chimneys; the only opening is a hole, level with the ground, which is barely large enough for a man, crawling on all fours, to enter.  Such is the hut, or rather hovel, that shelters indiscriminately men, women, and children, creatures who, as a type, are close to primitive man.</p><P>By profession these natives are fishermen, hunters and sneak-thieves.  As they are not agriculturists they subsist on what roots and wild berries nature furnishes.  They have no domestic animals.  The men go around naked; the women wear a fly-net made of a kind of flax around the hips which comes half-way to the knees--but it is far from modest.</p><P>I have already seen several specimens of these natives hanging around the tents in the village, waiting for a chance to steal or barter furs or fish for some trinket, such as pearls, bits of colored glass, necklaces or, better yet, for knives, tools or utensils.</p><P>Their food consists mainly of venison, fish, fresh or dried, and acorns.  Sneaks and cowards when alone, when banded together they act like arrogant and defiant highwaymen whenever they run across some stray miner.  In plundering, however, they will use every kind of trickery and cunning rather than resort to violence and fighting.  These they use only when the former has proved a failure.  The natives along the coast, so I am told, are not as strong or well-built as the mountain Indians.  But in a little while I shall be able to verify, for my own satisfaction, this information which I got from a Canadian who had had personal experience with the natives under different conditions.<ANCHOR ID="n16">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16">These Indians are the Yurok, an Algonkin people.  See Waterman, <HI REND="italics">Yurok Geography</HI>
082.sgm:, Univ. of Calif. Publ. Archaeol. and Ethnol., vol. 16, no. 5, 1920; and Kroeber, <HI REND="italics">Handbook of Indians of California</HI>
082.sgm:<P>On Sunday, April twenty-first, all impatient to look over the trail leading to the placers, I struck up an acquaintance with a man from Louisiana, a native-born Frenchman who acted as secretary to the <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
082.sgm:, one of his Yankee friends, and another Frenchman, who belongs to an organization known as "The Colliers," so named because its members mined coal all one winter near San Francisco.  This Louisianan, who goes by the name of Guelin, came overland to California like so many other miners and explorers and so knows what precautions to take in this land of bears and savages.</p><P>Carrying four days' provisions, woolen blankets, guns and ammunition, all four of us started out in the morning for the great unknown, on a path that was not clearly marked, through the depths of the forest.  As we have no map to show the course of the Trinity my compass is useless.  We are striking out toward the northwest, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:our route is supposed to lie, and paralleling the sea which lies some four thousand meters on our left.  This is a rugged country and full of deep ravines.  We are constantly climbing up and down in the shade of enormous trees which are very ancient.</p><P>After walking six hours we descended a steep slope to the seashore, which seems at this place to rise almost perpendicularly from the sea.  Here we found we could travel along a pebbly beach some two or three hundred meters broad, with the sea booming on our left, and the cliffs rising on our right.  All this coast is covered with gigantic tree trunks half buried in the sand which have been lying here for many decades--possibly thrown up on the beach by the sea or brought down off the cliffs which are being steadily undermined by the heaving seas.</p><P>Having travelled some six kilometers with the sun beating down on our heads and the pebbles making walking difficult we stopped and camped an hour before sunset on the northernmost extremity of this deserted beach close to a little salt lagoon and within reach of a spring of pure water.</p><P>Several hundred feet away stood an Indian <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
082.sgm: which we had visited when passing by.  It had only five huts in all, but these held quite a number of men and women, many of whom are away most of the time on expeditions, either to secure food or to satisfy their inbred love of plunder.  Not far from this settlement was their graveyard, marked off with stakes, where the graves of parents and ancestors were decorated with the possessions they had used during their lifetime.</p><P>This rite, which appears to be their only religious observance, is sacred, and anyone who dares defile the graves would be swiftly punished by a deadly arrow shot quietly from behind some tree.  Knowing this, we approached the sacred burial-place with the deepest reverence.  Though well-prepared to put down any aggression on their part, yet we did not want to anger them and cause trouble.</p><P>Merely a scant handful of old women and children were guarding the huts for the middle-aged members of this little tribe.  The principal occupation of these natives is tanning the skins of wild animals, making arrows, quivers, and fishing equipment, and weaving excellent baskets.  The latter, made of wood or rushes, are used for a number of purposes: as containers, for packing heavy loads on the head, and even for cooking food.</p><P>This last custom seemed very odd to me, but this is how it is done.  The basket is woven so firm and tight that liquids cannot filter through it but as the material used in weaving is not fire-proof the containers cannot be put on the fire.  So when the Indian wants to cook his food he fills the basket with cold water, and makes a fire nearby, in which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:it possible for them to survive, year in and year out, in this wild country where they are now living.  But as the status of things has recently changed, their very existence is in peril.</p><P>Their one weapon of defense is the arrow, which is often poisoned.  The latter is used exclusively in hunting as the regular arrow will not bring down large game like bear and deer.  To capture animals they watch for their trails, dig great deep traps, and occasionally trap one of them.  When this happens a general holiday is declared.  Sometimes captured grizzlies weigh as much as one thousand pounds; small bears run from five to six hundred pounds, on the average.</p><P>The Indian is neither generous nor hospitable; he invariably tries to get something for nothing.  In all his dealings he will usually try to persuade the purchaser to accept something worth less than what he is after.  He will also try as a rule to get away your most valuable belongings, even woolen blankets or cooking utensils.  When this fails he mutters the word <HI REND="italics">chicano</HI>
082.sgm: meaning trade, or barter, crossing the index finger of each hand before his face--a gesture used to express the same idea.  Dickering then takes place each side offering the least for the most, until in the end terms are agreed on and everyone is satisfied.  From the Indian fish has been procured while he, in turn, has received glass, trinkets, and a taste for horse-trading and barter so inbred in human nature.</p><P>As for their spoken language--the Indian requires only a limited number of words since his needs are few and such things as physics, philosophy, science, industry and politics are beyond his ken--it seems to resemble somewhat that of the South Sea Islanders being a medley of aspirated vowels or guttural sounds.  I have listened to the Chinese and Kanakas talking in San Francisco and, as I listened to the Indians here, it impressed me as being one and the same language.  But I leave it to philologists to determine whether this similarity is real or only apparent.</p><P>Up to the time of puberty the children of both sexes run around entirely naked.  Young children seem to have a more intelligent air than their parents, for the adults are so preoccupied with material cares that their intellectual faculties lie dormant or grow more and more useless as these cares increase.</p><P>Mothers nurse their children as long as their milk lasts.  I have seen children five or six years old jump over a tree trunk a meter high to take the breast while the mother appeared highly amused at this prank.  The women did not seem to object to the advances we made to these little savages.  Infants in arms, on the other hand, were frightened when they saw us, and when I tried to make friends with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:them by offering some sugar-lumps my advances were met with cries and tears.  But the little children who clustered around us were not at all diffident.<ANCHOR ID="n17">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17">A remarkable history of these Lower Klamath River Indians has been written by one of their number, Mrs. Lucy Thompson:  <HI REND="italics">To the American Indian</HI>
082.sgm:<P>Daylight was waning when we left the Indians and made our camp two kilometers below them near a brook which ran between an embankment and the remains of a great petrified tree which had been lying there since time immemorial.  The grayness of the sky overhead completed our feeling of isolation as we sat alone by the embers of our comfortable camp-fire which was reflected in the waters of the lagoon<ANCHOR ID="n18">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: beyond, or north of us.  Fifty meters west was the sea pounding on the pebbly beach below us.  In the forest all around deer abounded; the lagoon was thick with ducks.  Far above our heads the birds flew by, making strange nocturnal noises.  The little brook close at hand seemed to encourage all this with a murmured approbation.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18">Probably Big Lagoon.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>With such surroundings I spent the night out under the vast canopy of the heavens.  Tired out as I was after the long tedious day's travelling I would have slept soundly if the cold damp sand had not chilled me to my bones.  Several times in the night I had to get up and throw more wood on the fire.</p><P>This was my first real experience roughing it.  This life, as you can see, promises to be full of action and excitement.  A man naturally takes a fresh supply of courage when he is off by himself in a strange country and forced to face the many difficulties in his path when living close to nature.  Under similar circumstances I have spent more than a hundred nights out in the open wrapped only in my woolen blankets and with mattresses made of fine sand, damp rocky soil, moldly vegetation and, now and again, green grass, a decayed tree, or a bed of leaves for variety, but usually with only the starry vault of the heavens over me.  But of all the beds I have ever slept on the hardest and the most back-breaking, though you might not believe it, is hard sand.  I speak from deep experience!</p><P>On Monday, April twenty-second, at sunrise we broke up the camp by the sea and, heading northeast, climbed the mountains.  Here we ran into a superb forest where we got lost before we had gone a league.  Our lunch was cooked in a small ravine.  It was here that we passed a forest-fire and, had the undergrowth been thicker, we might easily have been trapped; but as a strong wind was blowing, the burning area several meters wide, and the vegetation stunted in several places, we were able to avoid the flames.</p><P>Having found what we thought was our path behind a thicket--for it looked as if it had been used for some time by pack-trains made up of men, horses, and cows--we followed it for more than an hour, only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:to discover we were in a <HI REND="italics">cul de sac</HI>
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082.sgm:<P>I rested on the twenty-fourth, but  on the twenty-fifth, hearing that a group of forty miners, mainly Frenchmen, were leaving for the mines, I persuaded my tent-mates to join their expedition, leaving me to rest a few days longer at Trinidad, to look over the neighborhood, dispose of some of our belongings--possibly selling them--and follow them as soon as possible.  To go now was out of the question for the time being, as there were only five horses, which had already been spoken for, in this locality.  I also wanted to try to get some land in or near Trinity City, or even in Humboldt or Eureka, as these towns are the natural ports for the placers of the back country.</p><P>But Naudet either from laziness or capriciousness refused to leave without me.  Veron followed suit, being mean or merely obstinate.  As we needed to use Pidaucet for the short time left us under his contract I was forced by the contrariness of the others to choose between the alternative of losing the work of the latter or the provisions and effects of the former, valued at some two hundred and fifty dollars.  So I decided it was wiser to start off alone with Pidaucet and join two or three energetic and good-natured miners who were starting off ahead of the main train.</p><P>The expedition itself was to be led by four Canadian guides up to the Trinity River for the sum of three hundred dollars.  Knowing from my experience on the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm: that most of this party were improvident and unreliable, I did not care to join them for the journey, preferring to be independent and save both time and money.</p><P>This is the first time since leaving France that I have left my Cousin Alexandre Veron alone and free to rely on his own resources.  However he will be constantly on my mind, for in the year or more I have spent in his society on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: and in San Francisco I have had ample time to know him.  He is a unique character, a type I have never met anywhere else even among the thousands I have met in all ranks of society.</p><P>For this reason I am going to sketch his personal appearance and character, for there may never be any one else like him.  Prosper Alexandre Veron, who was born in 1813 at Langres, is the last male representative of the younger branch of the Veron family.  Originally from Pesne, this family, ennobled in 1540 by Charles V., has been living in Langres for the last three centuries where they are highly thought of.  One branch of the family is called the Verons of Monginot because of numerous intermarriages made with this family in Langres and to distinguish it from the older branch, the Verons of Farincourt.</p><P>Charles Nicolas Veron, his father, was my mother's brother--thus making Alexandre my first cousin.  He married Jeanne Rose Marque of Santy, daughter of a magistrate, and niece of Colonel Baron <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:yet a march of two hours over pebbles or gravel with the bright sun beating down, and loaded with a heavy pack, is quite enough for a tenderfoot as yet not seasoned, and unaccustomed to this kind of exercise.</p><P>In the afternoon we climbed the mountains which bordered the eastern side of the lagoon.  That night we camped on the summit [Trinity Mountain] near an extensive forest.  We slept in a hollow tree trunk large enough to accommodate not less than ten men with all their baggage.</p><P>Here in this shelter I held a kind of bazaar, thanks to the glass beads I had with me--such a spectacle as had not been seen here for many a long day.  The Indians, who had been on friendly terms with us for the last few days and who had picked up some ducks I had brought down, had come to trade turbot for rice, bacon, tea, and a little brandy I had taken along to ward off fatigue, make me forget my troubles, and make the future look more roseate.</p><P>On the way out two of our shipmates joined us, one a Frenchman, the other an American.  The former had travelled overland to California.  The latter was a pure-blooded Yankee, a fact that stuck out all over.  We are fortunate in being able to travel with men of such wide experience, and the five of us have firmly made up our minds to push on ahead and put up a fight if we are attacked.</p><P>On April twenty-seventh we travelled all day long through the forest, which is rich in splendid vegetation; more than once we climbed hills with such steep slopes that we had to use both our hands and feet to make any headway.  This exercise lasted several hours!  Overhead flew several flocks of wild birds, which the backwoodsmen call grouse.  These birds have been imported, so it is said, from England to Canada.  From there they have migrated down into Oregon and California.  They are about as large as chickens, and as highly prized as the pheasant.<ANCHOR ID="n19">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: I fired at one but missed, as luck would have it, for it would have been a welcome change acceptably replacing yesterday's duck and, to some extent, it would have been a compensation for our long tedious day's travel.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19">What de Massey saw were probably native grouse.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>We crossed a little stream [Redwood Creek], unknown to geographers, about twenty-five meters broad.  A tree, chopped down on the banks, had been thrown across the river for a bridge, which was strong enough to carry a mule heavily loaded.  By the time we reached the opposite bank it was four in the afternoon, so we concluded to camp there for the night.</p><P>The river was full of trout.  I told Pidaucet that this was a fine chance to show his skill as a fisherman.  Although he has spent most of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<illus entity="a082-0004" MAP="no"> <CAPTION><P>THE TRINITY MINES IN 1851  Showing the miner's trails.  Facsimile of the northern portion of a MS map by George Gibbs.  Original in the Indian Office, Washington, D. C.<HSEP>-- <HI REND="italics">Courtesy of C. Hart Merriam</HI>
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082.sgm:and valleys.  Then as the trail became less and less clearly marked we retraced our steps.  As I had been famishing all day I finally quenched my thirst with water that had been collected in the hollow of a pinetree.  At sundown we camped in a meadow near a brook--an essential for every camp--not knowing whether we had made even ten kilometers headway.</p><P>We left this camp, which I dubbed "Camp of the Wolves" in honor of these creatures which howled all night long around us, on April thirtieth.  I also carved on a tree the date when we had camped--hieroglyphics to the Indians who may be the only ones to see them.  As through some mistake we were on the wrong trail we decided to go back to where we had camped the night before and strike out again from there.</p><P>Here at this camp we found the French caravan which had been several days on the road, as well as several Americans who had been robbed by the Indians and were returning, thoroughly discouraged, to Trinity Bay.  Nevertheless we decided to push on ahead.  In the night a fog as wet as a rain came up, adding nothing to our comfort, and our waterproofs proved more useful over than under us.  The camp has taken on quite an air of activity.  There are more than a hundred miners camping here, either returning to Trinity or going out to the placers.</p><P>On Wednesday, May 1, 1850>, we again started off on our journey.  This time as the road was good we went on ahead of the advance guard; the main group took a longer and less difficult route.  Seventeen of us camped that night on a small hill.  There we found some Frenchmen and Americans who were afraid to go on any farther as they thought they might be robbed of everything they owned by the Indians<ANCHOR ID="n20">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: who had already stolen their guns.  Among these Frenchmen was an organization known as Grand-Perret.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20">The Indians along Redwood Creek were the Chilula, related to the Hupa farther east.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>On May second we broke camp and, after climbing several mountains which were not so high as they were steep and rugged and making only three leagues after four hours' walking, we halted near a small Indian settlement.  Noting our numbers and how well armed we were they made friendly advances.  For a few glass beads and two fish-hooks I got enough deer meat to last three of us one day.  But to offset this Pidaucet, with his usual negligence, lost his ammunition.  This is a serious matter in a situation like ours where it is direly needed for food and defensive purposes and where it is one of our main safeguards.</p><P>When we got under way again at two in the afternoon several Indians trailed along after us and now and again others joined them, coming silently out of the woods and underbrush, others crept out of the tall prairie grass which seemed to magnify the number of robbers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:following us.  So far, at least, they have been friendly, humble, and, in fact, even obsequious and would gladly carry our baggage if we dared trust it to them.</p><P>It was five in the afternoon and the sun was just setting when, after twelve hours' marching, we reached a plateau overlooking a river which we thought was the Trinity.  We were completely fagged out.  I had fallen a little behind my companions, who were about fifty meters ahead, when I suddenly looked around and found about thirty Indians following me.</p><P>The natives were all so young and strong that they could easily have knocked me down, robbed me, and disappeared before my friends knew anything about it.  It seemed, however, that they had other and better plans in view: to rob the entire train.  This is all that saved me at a time which I am convinced was the most critical moment in my whole life.  I stopped, looking back every moment or so, filled my gun to be prepared for any emergency, and made sure my sword was handy.  The path was so narrow that these brown, tawny men were almost on our heels as they travelled in single file behind us.</p><P>I had made up my mind to fire if anyone tried to block my way and prevent me from catching up with my companions.  The five minutes it took me to catch up with them seemed like hours.  Finally we were all together on the left bank of the river--either the Rogue [Klamath] or Trinity.<ANCHOR ID="n21">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: Though it is not known definitely which river it is, I am inclined to think it is the former, meaning "River of Thieves."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21">Probably on the Trinity River near the center of the present Hupa Indian Reservation.  The Hupa were apparently the Indians they dealt with from this time on.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>Night was coming on and it was high time to pitch camp, but the site was neither desirable nor convenient.  For one thing the soil was a fine gravel and the place was exposed to attack, being near some small hills covered with a thick undergrowth where Indians could easily hide and surprise us in the night.  Since it was too late to be over-particular the only thing to do was to accept the situation.</p><P>On the right bank of the river, which must be some sixty meters wide at this point, rose a shady bank.  Beyond, off in the distance as far as the eye could see, were magnificent live oaks, which gave the countryside the appearance of a vast pasture, some four or five kilometers in extent.  Through the trees here and there we caught glimpses of Indian villages--a fact far from reassuring.  Weary and hungry as we were we had no alternative but to brave it out and camp.  So camp we did.</p><P>The Indians came up to us freely offering their services.  They were eager to relieve us of our packs, baggage, and arms, and only after some difficulty were we able to keep them from getting too friendly. As they made no attempt to barter it was thus evident that they had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:.  Though often effective it is frequently barbarous where put into practice.  We hope the warning recently administered will prove adequate and that no more skirmishes will develop.  I am egotistical enough to consider my own skin worth more than those of a dozen Indians.</p><P>When the sun rose on that momentous day, May third, we immediately got up.  First we looked around our tent, the neighboring hills, and along the banks of the river.  Here and there we found a few arrows which had been shot from the right bank of the river where some little hills overlooked our camp on the other side.  Some, too, might have been dropped in their hasty flight.  Either the darkness of the night, the absence of our camp-fire, our extra guard, or the fear of our guns had kept them from bothering us.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:plastered with mud and moss, and roofed with split logs which the Indians obtain in any thickness and breadth desired by burning down a tree and splitting it with a wedge-shaped flint which is driven in with a piece of wood.  The red pine<ANCHOR ID="n22">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: grows abundantly in these California forests, and as it is easily cut, this task is not difficult.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22">The redwood does not grow so far east as this, but Professor Kroeber tells us that the Indians brought planks up the river.  It is thought that the description of the locality here fits the Hupa country better than it does the narrow gorges of the Klamath where other good sized Indian villages of the Yuroks were located.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>Each house is only one story high and is set down about a meter in the ground--a way of building meant no doubt to afford protection from the cold in the winter season.  The hut has only one opening which serves both as door and window.  This is round, close to the ground, and about fifty centimeters in diameter.  To enter it is necessary to crawl in on all fours--but happily obesity is unknown among the Indians[!]  Any fat woman would be forced to sleep outside.  Such is the exterior.  While I had hoped to see the interior, in addition, my friends prevented me, saying I might be brought out dead or at least stripped of all my belongings.</p><P>I was particularly impressed by noticing that there were far more women than men in and about the village, and inferred that the husbands and brothers were fishing, hunting, or off looking for trouble.  I would place the total population at around one hundred inhabitants.  Among the younger women I noticed several who were quite goodlooking.  Among the older ones of both sexes there were several who were so wrinkled that they might easily have been a hundred.</p><P>Only about a dozen young men put in an appearance; they covered everything we owned.  Had we listened to them we would have handed over every single thing we were wearing.  And yet they offered us almost nothing in return!  Before long they grew unpleasantly familiar, pressing eagerly around us, and, if they had not seen one of us carrying a revolver--for we made no effort to hide the fact that we would check their cupidity in any way that seemed expedient--we might have been the victims of an ambuscade.</p><P>This being the situation, we concluded to return to camp and so avoid any chance of being robbed by natives.  We were taken back in the same canoe that had brought us over--we were almost afraid to stir--and soon rejoined our friends who were beginning to worry over what had become of us.  The Indians left us with the salutation <HI REND="italics">Tschoo</HI>
082.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n23">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: which may mean "good-bye" or, possibly, "Do not come back here again."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23">The Hupa have an exclamation of this sort, and in the Yurok <HI REND="italics">Tsutl</HI>
082.sgm:<P>But we had managed to purchase enough dried salmon to last us two days.  This was the only practical result of our trip.  It was three that afternoon before we broke camp and went on nine miles where we spent the night.</p><P>On Monday, May eight, thirty of us started on ahead.  As we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:up their trunks in a search for air and sunlight, to a height of some ten meters above the ground.  These great pines measured about thirty centimeters[?] in diameter.</p><P>Farther on we found an immense fallen tree which may have been lying there for two centuries and which was still in an excellent state of preservation.  Near it was another of equal size which had wound its roots around the fallen log and had sent up great branches in an attempt to extract strength and life from the sunlight.  In following the tracks of some big game we frequently came across deep traps dug out by the Indians.  These were covered with thick branches and leaves and were designed to catch large animals.  If we had only been lucky enough to find a single doe, deer, bear or stag, what a feast it would have brought to the discouraged members of our party!  In addition to that it would also have supplied us with food for some time to come.</p><P>For several kilometers we passed by plants which supply the raw material used by the Indians in making articles.  These plants, or vines, hung in festoons from tree to tree several feet off the ground.  Had they only been Ariadne's thread they would have led us out of our present labyrinth!  However, I must admit that it is used only for fishing-tackle, <HI REND="italics">esparto</HI>
082.sgm:, and loin-clothes, or fly-nets, the only garments worn by the Indians.</p><P>After walking seven hours, we returned to the place we had started from in the morning.  There we had left the pack-train, which had not moved from the bank of the river.  Discouraged, despondent, and weary, I camped with a heavy heart, my head aching, my stomach hollow, and my feet covered with blisters.</p><P>Having rested, three men on horseback started off  on May four-teenth to explore the country for several leagues in the immediate vicinity and to look for our lost trail.  In the meanwhile we mended our socks, searched for game which was nowhere in sight, and lived on herbs and roots.</p><P>Among them we found a plant known as the wild cabbage which looks something like our plantain in France.  This, in a sense, appeased our appetites.  We also made a few cakes, baking them in the ashes, as we had no ingredients for pancakes.  Having also run out of tea and alcohol we drank, instead, a concoction made of mint and elderberries, unsweetened.  It was refreshing, however, and quite in keeping with our present condition.</p><P>In the evening our guides came in, but they had only found what we had found--forests, mountains, and no trace of a road.  This made everyone look serious; even the gayest sobered down, and the most calloused looked care-worn.  Personally I am seriously alarmed over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:was originally associated with Doctor Briot, whom he left to join Perret's party.</p><P>Witnessing our distress, the latter offered us some biscuits.  He would accept nothing at all for them although we wanted to pay him at placer prices.  And while I hesitated to place myself under obligations, yet it would have been poor taste to have declined.  For this reason I accepted.</p><P>In camp we had the most delicious meal, of biscuits and water, I have ever had in all my life.  We did not dare eat as much as we wanted, however, not only to conserve food but also to avoid tiring our stomachs which had lost the habit of working.</p><P>That same evening we camped about two hundred meters from the lake, thick with snakes and tortoises, and not far from where we had spent the day of the fifteenth.  True enough, we had located the trail leading to the placers, but we had taken the wrong turn, otherwise the trail would have brought us in within twenty-four hours.  A peculiarity of these mountain roads, which often follow all the contours of the mountain in the course of ten or fifteen leagues, is that they frequently seem to go in the opposite direction from your destination.  This was what led us at that time, to make this grave error.</p><P>On May twentieth we crossed the mountains, which were still covered with snow.<ANCHOR ID="n24">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: Worn out, strength gone, feet bleeding, and with mere shreds of socks tied on with strings as my only stockings, I still managed to keep going.  Walking, in the course of time, becomes automatic.  This, together with energy and strong will, is what keeps a man going, and no amount of suffering, hardship or discouragement can shake it.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24">This seems to indicate that they were struggling through the rough country north of the Trinity River, perhaps crossing the Trinity Summits, although this must have been an exceedingly impracticable route.  There is but little possibility that snow remained in May on the summits southwest of Big Bar.  These mountains are only from four to five thousand feet in elevation.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>The group called <HI REND="italics">Grand-Perret</HI>
082.sgm: took the lead; Pidaucet, my three other friends in misfortune, and I followed behind with the Americans who travel at an easy gait.  We were making for a camp twenty miles beyond where we started from in the morning.  It was a hard trip.</p><P>Breaking camp at four in the morning on May twenty-first, 1850--the anniversary of the day I left Ha&circ;vre a year ago--after crossing some broad plains and climbing some high mountains we halted for lunch at noon.  Learning that some of our companions of the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: were camping on the shores of the Trinity<ANCHOR ID="n25">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: about four miles below the placer called Big Bar--they were among the first to pan along this river--Pidaucet and I, fearing the main train would not get in that night, pushed straight on for the goal of our long journey.  We got in just as the sun was setting.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25">Hence the names "French Creek" and "Little French Creek" in this vicinity?</NOTE>
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082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>[IN THE TRINITY MINES]</HEAD>
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082.sgm:<illus entity="a082-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A section of Bancroft's <HI REND="italics">Map of California</HI>
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082.sgm:<P>It is this constant element of chance that keeps enthusiasm and interest at high pitch, sustains morale, and enhances the endurance.  Beyond this it is a hard life.  However, it is one that fascinates and appeals to men of strong and independent character.</p><P>On this tour of inspection I stopped to chat with one miner who had just taken out a pile of gravel, and was examining it.  Looking at it closely I discovered a bit of dull yellow about the size of a small hazelnut.  Taking it out I handed it to him.  It proved to be a nugget--the first I had seen at the placers.  I asked him to sell it to me.  Its intrinsic value was eight francs, but he wanted ten for it.  I accepted his offer, however, and I am going to send it to you in France at the first opportunity.  I am hoping to find many more which will be even larger.</p><P>Since the day was nearly over I retraced my steps and returned to Big Bar.  I am now fully resigned to my miner's lot--which is far from being sybaritical.  During the day Pidaucet had put up a shack.  This is preferable to a tent which is apt to be hot.  But in trying to cut down a tree to use in building our rocker, he broke the hatchet.  This has been an unlucky day for us!</p><P>An American workman can do almost anything with a hatchet, but a Frenchman handles it clumsily and in addition has to have a saw, chisel and shovel; otherwise he can do nothing.  These were the objections raised by Pidaucet when I suggested he use this simple tool at the placers in making rockers.</p><P>Not knowing when this primitive method will be replaced by some more efficient means of gold-extraction I am going to give you a concise description of this rocker, even though it is of no value to you.</p><P>The rocker, in French <HI REND="italics">La Berceuse</HI>
082.sgm:, is formed like a cradle to which has been added a handle.  It is operated by hand with a rocking movement.  Usually it is made of boards.  When these are not available a tree-trunk split in half is used.  This half is then hollowed out, openings being made in the lower part to carry off the water.  It is then equipped with a sieve of fine iron mesh, or wrought iron, with holes in it.</p><P>This, which is attached to a movable square frame, is designed to receive the earth, sand, or auriferous gravel.  The bottom of the rocker is next filled with boards three or four centimeters high and one-quarter of a centimeter apart to catch all the flakes of gold which, being heavier, fall to the bottom when freed from the gravel as the water flows off.</p><P>After the rocker has been made it is placed wherever it is most convenient on the bank of the river and is then ready to be operated.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:distance of some seven kilometers in all--carrying  a weight of fifteen kilograms in each hand.  All this was under a broiling sun!  In addition we were badly treated, badly fed, and poorly housed at night.</p><P>Such a life is somewhat strenuous for anyone not accustomed to it.  Naturally I was not sorry when my lords and masters told me, on the evening of the third day, that they would have to dispense with my services, for I am afraid I could not have held out much longer.  Then, too, I had not been able to please my employers and they were tired of me:</p><P>On May thirtieth, as I was taking an enforced rest with Pidaucet who has not yet been able to work, a group of three Americans offered me a job with them.  I accepted, for there will be ample time to loaf when work is not available.</p><P>These Yankees out here are boorish in the extreme.  They have a sinister look and are absolutely uncommunicative.  Hard workers, themselves, they believe in making those under them labor.  Also, they are very strong physically.  I cannot say where they hail from; in all events not from a civilized part of the country.  It is from this population out here that squatters and filibusters might be recruited.  When my day was over I was paid off, and I was glad to see the last of them.</p><P>So ended my thirty-eighth year.  This same anniversary I celebrated a year ago on board the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: in the mid-Atlantic off Lisbon.  At that time I was gay, full of enthusiasm, and cheerful over the future.  The day was made memorable by meeting an English brig, the <HI REND="italics">Caroline</HI>
082.sgm:, of Sunderland, which had run out of food and water.  Her food almost gone, she had come over to us for assistance.  Anyone who is superstitious might have deduced, from this incident, trouble ahead for us.  Skeptics like myself, who mock at prophets and events, are now being punished for our levity.</p><P>Those, however, who predict calamities and misfortunes nearly always find them and few in this world are completely happy.  Such are my thoughts as I am about to begin--on June first, 1850--my thirty-ninth birthday.  If my luck gets any worse I shall be dead, or insane by the time I am forty.  I had not counted on any such bad luck as this when, in 1849, I set sail from Ha&circ;vre.</p><P>A miner called Fredet, whose brother runs a carriage-works on the Champs-Elyse&acute;es in Paris, got into Big Bar to-day.  As he had no tools and very little money he offered to help Pidaucet build a rocker and to go into partnership with us.  It is imperative for us to start some kind of work as Veron has not arrived yet--there is nothing to stop him from joining us eventually--so I told him he could work with us on our claim as soon as the rocker was ready, with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>Then he made up a lighter package consisting of sugar, chocolate, tea, tools, ammunition, and a gun, but he forgot to put in any real provisions.  Leaving our tent in care of Mr. Villeneuve whose partner, Mr. Mulnaer, a Belgian who had some mules, was making up a party to go out with him, Veron finally left for good.  Anyone else, in leaving a tent and its contents to a neighbor whom he knew only casually from having met on board the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
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082.sgm:until the Governor of California and the French consul, Mr. Dillon, stepped in and curbed the disorder.  The bitter feeling, however, still runs high.</p><P>Despite the fact that we have not heard how the trouble started, anyone who knows the quick temper, pride, and aggressiveness of the two nationalities as reflected in these particular individuals can without injustice readily imagine that both sides must have been equally guilty.  This is what made the attempt at reconciliation progress so smoothly.</p><P>We hear numerous rumerous about robberies perpetrated by Indians in the North as well as the South, of bloody reprisals on one side and another, and of miners killed or wounded.  But the incident that made by far the deepest impression on the men along the Trinity River concerns what happened to some Canadians who are comping about twenty-five kilometers down below Big Bar.  These men were the heroes of the day, the victims being their Indian neighbors.</p><P>This may have been what the two Indians whom I met on May fourth not far from our camp on the prairie were trying to tell me about, and it explains the way they acted when they thought we were going out to swell the number of their enemy.</p><P>These particular Frenchmen I have reference to were trappers by profession and, in consequence, nomads.  They had come down a short time ago from Oregon.  Last year while hunting in Oregon they heard of the gold discovery in California.  On their way to California they prospected all the rivers and finally found the long-sought gold on the Trinity.<ANCHOR ID="n26">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: In 1850 they located here near the river.  They have exploited and washed all the sands nearby, and have taken out fabulous amounts of gold-dust.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26">See note 14.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>But like anyone unaccustomed to the luxuries of life they longed to enjoy their wealth at any cost.  And so they squandered it on whatever would add to their comfort and enjoyment.  Having horses they think nothing of travelling one hundred leagues to purchase supplies and luxuries.  In 1849 they combed the placers of Big Bar and Long Bar then moved on down the river.  Now they are located near Triniday Bay where supplies can be procured more easily.  There they spend their winters.</p><P>Their camp is made up of some twenty-five men and about the same number of women and children.  I do not know what laws or religion they have adopted and, though there are no priests, judges, or lawyers among them, yet they all live harmoniously in one small community.  And here they are born, married, and buried without benefit of clergy or the law so necessary as a rule to civilized communities.  While I fail to understand it, yet such are the facts.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>The San Francisco papers have run full accounts of the tragic journey of our train up to the Trinity giving such heartrending details that thoughtful and generous hearts would undoubtedly have been touched if the fire had not happened almost simultaneously and given them problems and troubles of their own to face.<ANCHOR ID="n27">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27">The letters referred to have not been found.San Francisco papers of April to August, 1850, carry current reports of the Trinity and Klamath excitements.  See, <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
082.sgm:<P>Toward the end of June, as our claim was no longer producing and Pidaucet--a man destined to fail us both in body and spirit--had developed whitlow and was no longer working for us, we had no choice but to go out prospecting, that is, to start out and look for new gold-diggings where the dust is more abundant than on our present claim.</p><P>Having agreed to this plan we decided first to visit the camp of the Canadians on down the river, prospecting, from time to time, as we walked.  This colony is about thirty miles [?] away on the opposite bank of the river.</p><P>So we started off, packs on our backs and loaded down with equipment and provisions.  Though we made several sample washings on the way yet we found the yield to be exactly what it was at Big Bar, If any richer claims exist they must be held by miners who are working them and who have replaced the rocker by the long-tom, a better and faster machine.</p><P>Certain sections had already been staked off by the miners who were busy working them, having even turned the river from its course to pan the river bottom.  To do this, however, requires both strength and capital.  Yet a few have had exceptional luck.  Among them is the Marquis de Franclieu, an ex-Algerian colonel who came out and staked off a claim two miles below Big Bar.  With him came two passengers from the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:, a rosary, and a charm.  By using a compass they crossed safely through the forests beyond Trinidad to the placers without making a detour.  There they took up a claim that is bringing them in one hundred dollars a day apiece.  What luck!</p><P>After travelling about three days we reached our destination.  On the trip Veron and I prospected while Pidaucet looked on, being unable to do any manual labor.  In fact he even threw his tools away so that he would be sure not to have to work.</p><P>Veron is always losing his head at the slightest provocation.  He was climbing along the bank of the river where the pitch was steep, and for greater safety he actually threw his pack away letting it drop down into the river.  It contained all our funds, four hundred dollars in all, most of which represented the net results of two months' work of all three of us, and my portfolio containing all my notes.</p><P>When I saw what he had done I jumped in and fished it out.  By some miracle it was unharmed and I dried it out in the sun.  I am most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:unlucky in having associates of this calibre, companions who get so upset over any little thing.  True we have been travelling over difficult trails; Indian paths no wider than my hand--and along the edge of cliffs so steep that the least false step would send us down into the river flowing fifty meters beyond.  More than once, too, we have had to take off our shoes and carry our packs on our heads.  But this is not where Veron is so trying.</p><P>After three days of many catastrophes like this we finally reached the Canadian camp.<ANCHOR ID="n28">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: I was glad to meet the heroes of the bloody skirmish I have already described, and even more curious to see how far the descendants of the French Colonists, who came over in the seventeenth century, have conserved the old pronunciation and their family names, and what affection they have for the French whom they so fondly call their fellow-countrymen.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28">From the data given here the camp seems to have been located near the junction of the South Fork and the Trinity.  Father up the river, however, there was a camp called Canadian Bar.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>Their settlement radiates an air of peace and good-will.  The members live in tents set up in sheltered and wooded spots near the river.  They all seem prosperous, and far from miserable.  Our arrival created somewhat of a sensation.  They gathered around us, asked questions about France, and gave us a cordial welcome.  Among the most friendly were Mr. Petit, and especially Mr. Gervais.  Both appeared to be influential members of this community.</p><P>Here and there we saw Indian squaws and papooses, large and small, moving about.  Everyone was busy tending to his own affairs, looking after his own quarters, the animals, or attending to community business.  The elder, or community supervisor, Mr. Gervais, brought us a delicious piece of fresh venison which we gratefully accepted.  We asked him to come and have lunch with us the next day.  This was the only hospitality we were able to offer.</p><P>He accepted and the next day at eleven he arrived bringing a complete dinner with him.  This good fortune and this foresight on his part were completely unexpected.  The affability of this good man who, weather-beaten though he was, had the true French spirit of hospitality and generosity, touched me to the quick, for we were two thousand leages away from France, and this man, whose ancestors had left there two hundred years ago, knew the mother-country by hearsay only.</p><P>The meal was as gay and jolly as anyone could ask for in view of our present financial and geographical status.  This fine old patriarch who owned a number of servants, pack-animals, a furnished tent, and a certain amount of gold, ranks as one of the aristocrats of this back-country.  Perhaps, despite our clothes, he was able to judge from our manners and our conversation that we were not as uncouth as we looked.  Had I been certain of this I should have enjoyed it even more, and retained even pleasanter memories of this occasion.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>After hearing his account of their expedition against the Indians my own impression of it is materially modified.  Such deeds cannot be measured by the standards of civilized countries where protection is afforded by the police, the judges, and the courts.  Out here each family, clan, or group must supply this deficit; this is what makes summary justice obligatory and justifiable, and makes existence possible.</p><P>The day after this feast we again took the trail for Big Bar, following the opposite bank of the river.  We prospected time and time again, but all our attempts were uniformly unsuccessful.  In speaking of the Canadians--whom I shall probably never see again--I should like to say that their pronunciation of French is identical with what was in current use, during the seventeenth century in Normandy and several other French provinces.</p><P>For instance they pronounce <HI REND="italics">qui que ce sais</HI>
082.sgm: as we would pronounce <HI REND="italics">qui que ce sait</HI>
082.sgm:.  When I was quite young I knew some old men nearly eighty-nine whose fathers had been alive during the reign of Louis XIV and who still clung to this old-fashioned method of pronunciation.  Similarly many expressions they use at the present time have long gone out of fashion and give to their conversation the stamp of archaism.</p><P>After eight days' absence we got back to Big Bar, unhappy over the prospect of resuming our life of drudgery.  A few days later I heard that the things I had asked Villeneuve to send out had arrived.  While I did not know what the package contained yet in our present straitened circumstances anything was acceptable.</p><P>The package weighed one hundred pounds and the transportation charges were one dollar a pound.  This exorbitant price we had to pay, or lose everything.  I was completely out of trousers, and shirts, and was as ragged as a disreputable beggar.  To go prospecting I had to buy two pairs of shoes, one for Veron and one for myself, at twelve dollars each.</p><P>When we unpacked Veron was not satisfied with the contents.  In fact they had sent about forty pounds of things that were absolutely useless and not what I had asked for.  But whose fault was it?  Veron had had trouble over the price of the food he had bought on the way out from Mulnaer, Villeneuve's partner, and had not told me about it so these men had done what they pleased with the flour and other provisions, and apparel, and had sent us only what they could not easily dispose of.</p><P>There is no redress in a country like this when it is customary to exact justice individually rather than through judges and lawyers who often absorb in costs over and above the value of what is in litigation, making the case a farce.</p><P>Veron added fresh coals to the fire by losing his temper, swearing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>[JOURNEY TO THE KLAMATH]</HEAD>
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082.sgm:<P>To-day is a memorable occasion, a gala-day.  Just a year ago we celebrated it on board the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: where everyone was in high spirits and optimistic over future prospects.  But out here in this wild, uncivilized country, closer to poverty than a fortune and surrounded by strangers who are coldly indifferent to what becomes of me I am no longer justified in building castles in Spain or even cardhouses.  One must be philosophical, however, and take bad luck good-naturedly until the luck changes.</p><P>This evening we had pancakes, a little fresh meat, and some cold water for supper.  Anyone who has nearly starved to death for fifteen days near the Trinity River has little right to complain here along the Salmon where the prime essentials are procurable.</p><P>On Wednesday, the twenty-sixth, we tramped all day long over the mountains which were for the most part wooded and offered slight variety either in vegetation or scenery.  On a hill-top, in a little open clearing, I found one white lily in full bloom.  I made the remark that this was the first lily I had come across in my travels since leaving home and, as it was the emblem of my own country, it made me homesick for France even though two thousand leagues of land and ocean separated us.</p><P>We rested where the Salmon and Shasta rivers [!] fork.<ANCHOR ID="n29">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: The latter, which is about the length of the former, gets its name from Mount Shasta--the highest peak in this part of the country--where it rises.  This peak can be clearly seen from any mountain, thirty leagues away.  These two rivers probably flow into the Klamath which empties into the Pacific well below the Oregon border.  In any event this is what miners and backwoodsmen believe.  Up to the present writing geographers have wisely refrained from making any statements about it.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29">At the Forks of the Salmon.  De Massey confuses the North Fork of the Salmon with the Shasta River.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>Here where we stopped for lunch I had an opportunity to see an entire Indian family, members of one of the local tribes.  I did not understand why they came over here and mixed with the miners.  They may have been merely curious; perhaps they were waiting for a chance to rob us.</p><P>These Indians are a fine type of savage; the men are well-built and stalwart.  Some of the women would even be considered handsome if their mouths were not so heavily tattooed, and if they did not have the coquettish habit of piercing the cartilage between the nostrils with a piece of bone or an arrow about seven or eight centimeters long.  This decoration takes the place of an ornament, but it is extremely ugly and gives them an odd appearance.</p><P>I have been trying to find out something about this custom--a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:custom extremely painful at first but afterwards merely inconvenient.  But I have only found out this much: that somewhat as <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
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082.sgm:<P>Falling in some twelve thousand meters farther on with another party of Americans who were also turning back discouraged and who confirmed the reports of the first outfit, it seemed foolish to try and carry out our plans for it would have meant time lost and a useless consumption of provisions without any material benefit.  As my friends felt the same way we concluded to retrace our steps, although we were only a short distance from the Klamath.</p><P>Returning to the placers by way of the upper [North] fork of the Salmon we found they had been abandoned and that a fresh fever had drawn the miners over to the banks of the Shasta, and the tributaries of the Klamath.  What a waste of effort!  How much time is squandered by this constant shifting!  A miner who is finding gold worth a hundred francs a day will leave his claim in the hope of finding one hundred and fifty francs twenty or thirty leagues away.  More often than not, after leaving, he finds there is nothing in the new location.</p><P>In my last camp I came across some of the loveliest spots imaginable, places reminiscent of an English garden, which had been laid out and planted on a large scale by an artist.  He had made green lawns, and planted masses of large trees and bushes of all sizes.  Some of the trees were a variety that dropped their leaves; others were evergreen.  Through the garden ran a brook, with a waterfall.  All this was situated directly on the picturesque banks of the Shasta [North Fork of Salmon].</p><P>On our way back to Big Bar we took a short cut where the travelling was easier and so had a more comfortable trip as the road had been cleared off by the sensible and practical Yankees with axe and hatchet.<ANCHOR ID="n30">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: By going this way and by following the valley which led to the South Fork (a branch of the Trinity) we crossed the river and its subsidiaries three times.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30">Perhaps this route lay by way of Weaver's diggings--later Weaverville.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>Sometimes we had to cross bridges made of the solid trunks of fallen trees where dizziness or a false step would have proved fatal to any individual who was not absolute master of his head and feet.  However by so doing in five days we made a trip that had taken us ten days of the hardest walking, not to mention suffering and exhaustion, and with no more discomfort than occasionally getting hungry.</p><P>On Wednesday evening, August second, we got into Big Bar.  I intended, without losing any time, to give a full account of my exploring expedition, to map out plans, and to start out at once with my partners.  But to my amazement I found my shanty deserted.</p><P>Upon making inquiries I learned that Pidaucet and Veron having formed a partnership had left together for the lower Klamath, and that Fredet who was not over his <HI REND="italics">panaris</HI>
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082.sgm: at Trinity City.</p><P>Having had no mishaps on our four days' trip, we got into Union Town the next day.  This was a new settlement made up of fifty houses and forty tents.  The houses belong to the speculators.  Other sites are occupied by the general store, which sells everything, and the hotel, which is cafe&acute;, restaurant, gambling house, saloon all in one.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:The tents house the transient miners who are going out or coming in from the placers and stop here to restock, or fritter away the gold they have collected.</p><P>The location is not a bad one being on a bend in Trinity [Humboldt] Bay, but only barges and small boats can get up to it.  Large ships have to keep off owing to the sand-bars.  A plain two or three kilometers deep, shaped like a half-moon and edged with massive forests which inclose it on three sides, dips down to the sea.</p><P>Nearby are two small villages, Humboldt, and Eureka City.  These are the ports from which supplies are taken to Trinity City which lies fifteen miles north.  Had Captain Kemp of the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm: know his business he would have put us off here and so saved us many trials and tribulations.</p><P>I spent  August tenth and eleventh at Union Town resting and looking over its prospects, present and future, since it is the connecting link between San Francisco and these northern placers.</p><P>The Marquis of Pindray has been camping here for some little time together with his servant, the man from La Chapelle.  They came out overland bringing with them a herd of one hundred and fifty steers, cows and a few horses.  They volunteered the information that their sotck came from <HI REND="italics">Rancho de Vaca</HI>
082.sgm: along the Sacramento and had belonged to an American colonel, Victor Prudhon [Prudon], from whom they were purchased and who owned not less than five or six square leagues of land.</p><P>They also boasted that they owned a large number of building lots in Union Town.  Personally I could not help raising the question how these men, who were living from hand to mouth four months ago on the proceeds of hunting and gambling and taking anything they could lay their hands on, had been able completely to reverse their position and acquire so much capital.  The whole thing looked strange to me and aroused my curiosity, though I only knew them by sight and reputation.</p><P>Out here they are famous for their prodigality, the airs they put on, their appearance of opulence, and for their reputed nobility.  As a visit from me, a poor miner and one of their fellow-countrymen, would not be compromising, I decided to attempt it.  I had a good excuse for going to see them as they are the local butchers here.  They kill and sell meat at thirty and forty cents a pound.  They also sell milk from their cows--at a dollar a bottle!  As there is plenty of pasturage around here they do not have to worry over feed for their animals.</p><P>Upon giving my name and saying where I was from I was politely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:still holding in St. Joseph [Missouri], the future prospects of that village, and his trip overland to San Francisco--a journey of some five or six thousand leagues [kilometers?] over desert and through Indian country.  He also bragged about his frequent brawls with men of every nationality--from which he always came off victorious.</p><P>He also told us how he had acquired a ranch on the borders of the Sacramento, five square leagues in area, from which he had taken off the animals he had brought along with him.  He described, too, his trip from <HI REND="italics">Rancho de Vaca</HI>
082.sgm: to Union Town, without guides or knowing the road, through woods, mountains, and underbrush.  Acquiring building lots at Union City he put his tent, the tent where I was being entertained, on one of these, but he expects to move on shortly to the placers where he hopes to sell his live-stock at better prices.  All this amazing history was related in a simple and convincing manner, and the courage, force, energy, audacity, and intelligence of the man were so impressive to the listener that he actually seemed to be telling the truth.</p><P>For three hours this monologue lasted--it was broken only by occasional questions and admiring exclamations by way of encouragement--De Pindray never once stopped talking.  He kept looking at me with his strange, fascinating manner as if he wanted to hypnotize me, and fathom my innermost thoughts.  Not a flicker passed over my passive countenance, however, expressing what I really thought of him.</p><P>Interloper as I was, I had come with the intention merely of observing as closely as possible these two types, a Robert Macaire a and Bertrand, types of aristocratic Frenchmen on American soil.  Estimating their wealth I would place it around two hundred thousand dollars, nearly a million francs.</p><P>At three in the afternoon, edified, if not entirely sympathetic, I left my hosts.  I am hoping to run across them again in the future and be able to continue their sinister biography.  I have recently heard around here that an American brig, the <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
082.sgm:, is leaving soon from the Port of Trinidad for San Francisco.  Having no money or time to lose, I have made up my mind to leave to-morrow morning for Trinity City.</p><P>On Monday, August twelfth, at seven in the morning, I started out with an ex-croupier from one of the gambling houses who now owns a cafe&acute; in Union Town.  By way of ballast I carried my entire fortune along with me consisting of a large fund of philosophy, some energy, a gun, ammunition, a good blanket, some biscuits, and about sixty dollars.</p><P>It was without any regrets that I left this land of mosquitoes and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:conspirators received, by way of <HI REND="italics">pourboire</HI>
082.sgm:, a good ducking which was well deserved, I can assure you.</p><P>Musing over our adventure we enjoyed a delectable dinner of salmon.  At three in the afternoon, dry and rested again, we took up the trail once more on the wooded plateau with its dense underbrush, and toward five that evening we reached Trinity City without further adventure.  Full of hope, courage, and vision it was from here that we started the twenty-fifth of last April.</p><P>I found my tent as I had left it, but nearly everything inside in the way of personal belongings, tools, utensils, and provisions had vanished, having either rotted or been stolen.  As I could not find a purchaser for what little remained I left everything in a store to be sold off for our account.  This was one way of escaping criticism, but if I had thrown them into the sea I would have realized as much on them.</p><P>This done I made a bundle of my personal belongings, intending to ship them.  Those belonging to Pidaucet and Veron I put in a box leaving them in the tent in case they returned by way of Trinity City.  Then I booked passage on the <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
082.sgm:.</p><P>Having raised twenty-two dollars from the sale of my gun I did not need to draw further on my savings for expenses on the return trip from the placers to San Francisco.  In this way I would reach the city with a capital of sixty dollars with which to meet all the exigencies of my situation.</p><P>Nothing about the village of Trinity City had changed since my departure; there were a few more wooden houses and a few less tents, but there was little activity and the streets seemed quiet.</p><P>On Wednesday, August 14, 1850, I left behind the inhospitable river where I had almost died of hunger, thirst, cold, fatigue, and discouragement, and poorer than ever embarked on the brig that was just sailing, to face, no doubt, more trials and tribulations.</p></DIV>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>[SAN FRANCISCO AGAIN]</HEAD>
082.sgm:<P>[August 14, 1851] The <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
082.sgm: that is carrying away to-day not C&aelig;sar and his treasure but merely a poor bankrupt miner is a small ship of one hundred and fifty tons, pretty to look at but devoid of every comfort and luxury.  Nevertheless, she is steady and seaworthy.</p><P>In charge of her are the Captain and crew, all of whom eat at the same table on a footing of perfect equality when not on duty.  All orders, which are given in a pleasant voice, a voice that is almost cultured, are so speedily and accurately executed as to lead one to believe that no line is drawn between master and subordinates here on board <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:except for the fact that now and again the word "Captain" is spoken.  After travelling on the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm: commanded by a butcher, a drunkard, and an incompetent knave, Captain Kempt, it was a welcome surprise to be surrounded by such conditions and to be in a pleasant environment once more.</p><P>Moreover, I could not help asking myself why all our Socialists, fanatics, and theorists have never been able to produce results like these which would add materially to their laurels.  A profound philosopher would say that the trouble with us is that theoretically we admit equality, on the condition that it does not affect us personally; freedom of speech, if it does not disrupt our established convictions, and liberty only when it accords with our wishes and interests.  To such an extent is this carried in all our political associations that more orators exist than practical men, more leaders than soldiers, and more idealists than workers.</p><P>The crew consists of the Captain, five sailors, a cabin-boy, and a cook.  These, with four Americans and myself who are passengers, complete the personnel of the small vessel.  We are given only two meals a day but they are ample and well-served.  Fresh salmon, ham, and potatoes are the main dishes, with coffee, tea and brandy as beverages.  For more exacting appetites the buffet is always open and supplied with bread, butter and brandy.  I notice no one abuses this privilege.</p><P>We had a fine voyage down, with a good breeze tempered by a warm sun.  We sailed most of the time within sight of the California coastline lying on our left and with the Pacific stretching off to the horizon on the north, south and west.  On this floating haven of rest, so tranquil and quiet after four months of fatigue and hardship, mind and body were refreshed and given a new vigor to meet the problems awaiting me in San Francisco when I get there.  (I am sorry to say I do not remember the name of the Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
082.sgm:, and so cannot render him suitable homage.<ANCHOR ID="n31">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31">L. B. Edwards was master of the schooner <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
082.sgm:<P>On August fifteenth, at three in the afternoon we anchored inside the Golden Gate after thirty-six hours' travelling.  It had taken us about fifteen days to make this trip on the <HI REND="italics">Hector</HI>
082.sgm:.  By this comparison you can judge the relative worth of the two ships and the two captains.</p><P>I registered temporarily at the Marine Hotel,<ANCHOR ID="n32">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: the rendezvous of all unfortunate miners, ruined gamblers, and sailors.  The day following I started out to see what interesting information I could gather around the city.  I learned that my creditor De Gaulne, having lost his mind after the fire last May had wiped him out, had been sent home, and that the sums for which he was liable--if they are ever paid--would be repaid only in France.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n32">On Pacific Street; C. O. Stiles proprietor.</NOTE>
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082.sgm:<P>This new financial disaster, which deprived me of my last pecuniary resources and of credit on which I was depending, kept me from being able to release goods being held for me at the customs and on ships due to arrive shortly.  Would relentless fate never stop pursuing me?</p><P>Before forming this connection De Gaulne had assured me he was associated with the banker, J. J. Chauviteau; in fact he had even read me their agreement.  After the fire and bankruptcy, breakdown and departure of De Gaulne no papers were found indicating any such agreement.  This seemed a little strange as these two men had been living together.  After the fire J. J. Chauviteau had all De Gaulne's papers in his own possession, and had liquidated his affairs to suit himself.</p><P>So it seems as if, after the catastrophe, Chauviteau cleared himself, legally or illegally, to the detriment of outside creditors.  Then, like so many others who are wiped out by fire--bankers, businessmen, and consignees--he went through bankruptcy.  This was a simple and easy way out of this dilemma, of conserving his resources, and of keeping intact a strong-box full of papers and mortgages.</p><P>Out here the legal end of bankruptcy is easily accomplished.  The case simply comes up before a judge, together with two witnesses, who swear that the books have been regularly kept and that the client is unable to fulfill his obligations.  A decree of insolvency is then given and all liabilities are wiped off the books of the creditors, credit has been renewed, and business can then proceed as usual.  A fresh stock is put in and new creditors found without difficulty.  A bright man should be able to amass a fortune by three opportune bankruptcies; he is <HI REND="italics">declasse&acute;</HI>
082.sgm: in the business world if he does not attain this goal.  There is nothing odd about this, for in every country laws are merely a reflection of the men who enact them and represent the virtues, vices, manners, and customs of the country--though there may be a few exceptions to this general rule.</p><P>While I was away at the mines the consul Mr. Guy, who was not a big enough man for the position, was replaced to good advantage by Mr. Patrick Dillon, originally from England, but a naturalized French citizen.  He got his start in 1836 as an employe in the bureau of the Minister of the Interior, allying himself with the Guizot family.  Later he obtained a consular post in England and has just recently been promoted to the post he is now occupying--an enviable one considering its political importance, the responsibilities attached to it, and its perquisites, amounting to about ten thousand francs yearly.  Let us hope this new appointee will be able to meet the many demands made on him in San Francisco.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>Mr. Dillon is a scholar; he collaborated with Mr. Guizot in several of his historical treatises published in <HI REND="italics">La Revue des Deux Mondes</HI>
082.sgm:.  He speaks French correctly and fluently, as well as Spanish and English.  He is energetic, accommodating, generous, hospitable, and sensible.  The French call him--referring to his usual manner--" <HI REND="italics">collet-monte</HI>
082.sgm:," the English, "a man of dignity."  He is extremely generous, so much so in fact, that he is often imposed upon.  He is an excellent man for the French consulate.</p><P>After I got in, the first visit I made was to the Consulate.  Mr. Dillon received me affably even though he did not know me, and his head clerk gave me all the information I was after.</p><P>About this same time I learned that my friends and pleasant acquaintances, Count Ernest and Count Elior de Grivel of Perrigny and Lamyre, were in San Francisco.  Let me add a word about these new actors in the comedy France is playing out here on the edge of the Pacific.  Elior is forty-five; he was graduated from St. Cyr in 1830, being commissioned as an officer.</p><P>Temperamentally he is energetic, full of spirits, adventurous, and a great plunger.  He is also very independent, rather caustic, and not fond of family life, which proved too monotonous for his liking and made him decide to travel.</p><P>His father, who was general in command of the National Guard at Jura in 1815, being captured during the retreat of Marshal Ney in the Hundred Days, acceded to his desire, giving him ten thousand francs and his blessing, as well as wishing him good health, success, and a safe voyage.</p><P>He got off at Buenos Aires, and for nine years led the life of a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
082.sgm:, being always on his horse and out on the pampas under the hot sun like a nomadic hunter.  He made a living buying and selling sheep and half-wild steers.  His father having died and his mother, ne&acute;e du Guy, having fallen ill with an incurable disease, he returned home unexpectedly on the eve of the marriage of his sister Claudia to my cousin Laurent Marie de Houx, a glass-manufacturer, of La Rocherre.  I was at their nuptials which took place at Do&circ;le.  It was there I met Count Elior.</p><P>Under these same circumstances I also came to know Count Grivel of Lamyre, and his charming daughter Maria, the father and sister of Ernest, who was quite young at the time, but who is now about twenty.  He is the companion and associate of his cousin and guardian Elior in San Francisco.</p><P>This news gave me unspeakable pleasure as I was starting out to-day, for I felt quite a stranger in this cosmopolitan city teeming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:with so much activity.  These two cousins have sent out a shipment of wines and brandies bought at Bordeaux which they have disposed of at a profit.</p><P>Part of the proceeds have been invested in promoting the Hotel des Deux Mondes.  This hostelry is run by a Francomtois.  Ernest is living there watching and keeping a check on his interests, as well as those of Elior, to the best of his ability.  The latter who does not like hotel life has rented an hectare of land at Mission Dolores where he has a little house and intends to do some gardening.</p><P>To assist him in this venture he has a devoted servant, who is more like a friend, named Celestin, an ex-cuirassier, a substantial, jolly old companion.  He hired a substitute to get Celestin out of military duty and also paid his passage here in return for his services during his stay in California.  Celestin is intelligent, active, honest and sober--qualities rare everywhere, and particularly out in this country.  So Elior did both a good deed and a good stroke of business.</p><P>Upon his advice I decided to leave the Marine Hotel, which is really mainly a gambling-house, a <HI REND="italics">cafe&acute;-chantant</HI>
082.sgm:, and a cheap eating place or even worse, the rendezvous of a strange world of idlers among whom I felt out of place, and I am going over to make my home at the Hotel des Deux Mondes.  There I shall be known to the proprietors, have a chance to meet business men, importing agents, and ship captains whose acquaintance might prove valuable.</p><P>The establishment is a second-class hotel, but properly and capably managed.  The rates are not exorbitant for this country.  In fact I can get board and room there for fifteen francs a day.  If I can find some brokerage business to do in my spare time, while waiting for my goods to get in from France, I can see my way clear for a whole month, which is equivalent to two years in Europe with the way events constantly change out here.</p><P>In going through the city I can not find any traces of fire except that homes have been rebuilt somewhat better than before and in greater numbers.  Those of stone and brick, unfortunately, are scarce, the majority being built of wood, or in exceptional instances of sheet-iron, or zinc.  The whole effect is of a vast wood-pile newly built which needs only a careless match to flame up again more magnificently than before.</p><P>The French concerns which were so prosperous and active when I left here four months ago--[Leopold] Bossange and Colliard, [Aime&acute;] Hugues and [F. L. A.] Pioche, Mullot and Callot, and [J. J.] Chauviteau--are now in bankruptcy, and their once-proud representatives are now humbly bowing down before any ragged miner who might have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:a million dollars in his belt.  Thus do the scales turn--a thing not always sufficiently considered when times are prosperous.  But the French commercial houses will no doubt recover.</p><P>However, what many Frenchmen have not the vision to see is keen competition from Americans, English, Germans, and Jews from all over Europe who are pouring into this country.  For the time being this situation is not taken seriously.  When it becomes really dangerous it will be met, unless it crushes us before we know it.</p><P>From time to time I hear bits of news about the scattered passengers of the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
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082.sgm:.  The conditions were that he was to cultivate it and share profits for a certain number of years, in return for half-ownership.  At first blush this seems like a handsome offer, but labor--which is scarce--must be supplied, as well as several thousand dollars for supplies and live-stock.  De Lamole&grave;re, moreover, has no money.</p><P>So far as I know Veron ought to have about four hundred dollars.  I made this observation to him, but as usual, he showed very little judgment in letting it get away from him, having given it, as well as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:power-of-attorney to some stranger to represent him when our goods arrived in port.  It is impossible to stop a man from drowning if his mind is made up to it.  Such is the status of my cousin, Alexandre Veron, who does not seem to be in his right mind.</p><P>None of the miners has had as bad luck as my companions and I.  A chap called Parisot from Quiers in Su&circ;re (Upper Sa&circ;one), a passenger on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
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082.sgm:<P>The outlook here is far from satisfactory.  Transactions that appear perfectly safe often present so many unexpected pitfalls that I never feel safe about anything.</p><P>The month of August was spent in trying to sell, but without success, what goods we had in the customs while waiting for a second shipment that was slow in arriving.  In the interim, through my brokerage business, I was able to meet my daily expenses.</p><P>Impatient over the delay I finally suggested to Doctor Briot that as nothing better had turned up, we might take a trip south of San Francisco where a number of large <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
082.sgm: belonging to old Spanish-Californian families are located.  These families being too indolent to cultivate the ground, merely use their many square leagues of fertile land for pasturage.</p><P>If on this trip we find a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
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082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PART VI<LB><HI REND="italics">To my friends: Doctor Briot, my sympathetic fellow-traveller, Count Elior de Perrigny, and his young cousin, Count Ernest de Grivel of Lamyre, whose devotion and affection have never failed during my darkest hours and for whom I shall always cherish the warmest affection</HI>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>[JOSE&aacute; AND SANTA CRUZ]</HEAD>
082.sgm:<P>On Sunday, September 7, 1850, at eight in the morning Doctor Briot and I, like Jerome Paturot starting off on a search for fame, engaged passage on a little skiff of twelve or fifteen tons, which was bound for the port of the little village of San Jose&acute;.  San Jose&acute; is situated at the southernmost extremity of the Bay of San Francisco--in other words about twenty leagues from our point of departure.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>From this inhospitable land<LB>We set sail<LB>Without saying <HI REND="italics">au revoir</HI>
082.sgm:,<LB>So black looked the future!<LB>Come what may we are off<LB>With a light breeze,<LB>Out of funds,<LB>And almost without hope.</HI>
082.sgm:</p><P>The name of our ship is the <HI REND="italics">Wave</HI>
082.sgm:.  The owner, proprietor, and skipper are all combined in one lone man, the Captain.  The crew is composed of one cabin-boy.  These, together with two paying passengers, are all we have on board.  But they are quite enough, for this tiny boat is so loaded down with freight that it is impossible to move about.  So we must adapt ourselves to circumstances and be resigned, during the crossing, to remain standing, sitting, or lying down, uncomfortable as it is.</p><P>Luckily the trip will be short.  The weather is perfect and the wind favorable without being brisk enough to upset our skiff which might readily capsize with a stiff breeze blowing.  At this time of year, however, we have nothing to fear except being becalmed when the breeze dies down about four in the afternoon.</p><P>We sailed down the bay without discomfort or mishap.  Off toward the north San Francisco receded gradually into the distance.  West of us stretched the peninsula, with its chain of mountains that fringe the Pacific.  On the east were the low-lying hills with the plains stretching out at their feet and dotted with a few ranches, and the Mission San Jose&acute;, which though now in ruins has been recently exploited as a watering-place, since it is the site of some excellent hot springs.</p><P>After seven long hours we got off at the port of San Jose&acute;.  Here we found an embryo village that had been laid out on the marshy, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:unhealthful lowlands.<ANCHOR ID="n33">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: From there it was about three leagues to San Jose&acute;, our destination.  The trip could be made either on foot, horseback, or in a carriage.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n33">Alviso townsite, surveyed in 1849-50 by C. S. Lyman.</NOTE>
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082.sgm:<P>San Jose&acute; is located on the plains.  A few picturesque wooden houses dot the outskirts.  Some adobe houses, owned by the Californians, are lost in a jumble of wooden shacks and tents.  A large street of generous proportions bisects the village.  This is the main thoroughfare and here the public buildings are established.</p><P>In the daytime this street is nearly deserted, but when night comes it fairly teems with activity.  A motley population swarms through the street--a population largely of Mexicans, Chileans, Peruvians, Indians, and Californians.  Concessions and amusements, gambling, and noisy merry-making are found everywhere.  <HI REND="italics">Cafe&acute;-chantants</HI>
082.sgm: and gambling-houses, however, are the chief attractions.</p><P>The Spanish-Americans are fond of dancing, and music furnished by the mandolin and guitar is always in evidence.  The whole place is thus kept in an uproar and everyone appears to be either angry or drunk.  This lasts until midnight; it is enlivened by a few fights and frays.  Then the public lights are gradually extinguished, the orchestra stops, and the crowd reluctantly disperses to its tents, lofts, and huts, while others, without shelter, lie down and sleep in the open wrapped in a blanket or <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
082.sgm:.  Some few, more vicious or energetic than the rest, spend the remaining hours of the night in the gambling houses.</p><P>Among the latter I saw about fifty men from Sonora who are on their way from the placers to their own country.  This group of lively and happy miners, who are strong, heavy-set, rugged, brown and weather-beaten, are inveterate gamblers and absolutely lawless.</p><P>They are said to have collected a considerable quantity of dust and gold-nuggets which they are spending recklessly at roulette, monte, and thirty and forty, with high stakes, like knaves of the lowest order.  Many of their number have lost their stakes and have left San Jose&acute;.  I longed for some painter to watch this street-carnival with me, and transmit it to canvas for the benefit of posterity.  To-morrow and the day after this it will begin all over again--this hideous fe&circ;te of gold, vice, and vermin.</p><P>Among these men, types as odd as any I have ever seen, I ran across one of my fellow-countrymen, Dechanet, who once owned a small shop in Langres.  He is just the same as he always was.  He has been here about four or five months painting buildings, and while he has had good days yet as a general thing work has been slack.  He conceived the excellent plan of making friends with the village priest who gave him a small plot of land near the church.  On this he has built a shanty that serves as headquarters for his work.  He boards at the hotel for sixteen dollars a week--a sum equivalent to three days' earnings.</p><P>I located him in a gambling house watching the roulette wheel and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:absorbed in the prospect of imaginary gains and future fortune.  After breaking into this agreeable reverie I wished him good evening and good luck.  He looked frightened when he saw me, as frightened as if he had seen a ghost, his superior officer, or Medusa's head--the uncomfortable feeling that an unexpected creditor, however unimportant, always creates when he surprises the debtor at an inopportune moment.  So I hastened to relieve his mind by telling him that when it was convenient he could reimburse me for all or part of the twenty-four dollars he owed me--for which I would be deeply grateful.  Poor chaps like myself have to be accommodating.</p><P>Dechanet promised to remember it and reimburse me in a few weeks.  He also confirmed the rumor that Father Doubet, our other creditor, was living in retirement at Santa Cruz.  He said, too, that the road leading across the coastal range was difficult and dangerous to travel as it was infested with bears, wolves, and jackals.  From him we learned that it would take fully two days to get there.</p><P>Such warnings failed to intimidate the doctor and me who are by this time seasoned travellers.  Moreover, our route will take us past several <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
082.sgm:, and our plan is to stop and visit them.  Dechanet promised to get us some information about ranches before we got back in case we did not find anything that suited us in the locality.</p><P>Our departure is set for to-morrow.  The doctor did not find his friend Jourdain in when he called.  Jourdain is an old resident of California.  He came to San Jose&acute; long ago and established the first hotel in the village.  Had we seen him he might have given us some assistance in the way of good advice.</p><P>After leaving Dechanet to enjoy himself without further interruption we spent the night under the roof of the Jourdain Hotel.  Fatigued from our trip and our evening and with our ears still ringing from the noise of the village and gambling houses we slept fitfully, our dreams interrupted.</p><P>As yet California has not been admitted to statehood in the American Union and so has no proper constitution.  It is ruled as a territory, having been annexed under laws passed by the supreme authorities at Washington, who appoint all the highest officials as well as the municipal officers whose powers are very extensive here in the United States.</p><P>The governor, Peter Burnett, lives in San Jose&acute;.  As the courts and federal authorities are likewise located here all this gives the village a certain amount of life and social activity.  The population is estimated at some three thousand inhabitants.  In addition to this number there is a large floating population living in tents who are going to or returning from the mines.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>Spanish is the language commonly used.  The proportion of women here is much larger than in San Francisco; Mexicans, Californians, and Indians predominate.  Two Frenchwomen operate <HI REND="italics">cafe&acute;s-chantants</HI>
082.sgm: --Madame Martin, and <HI REND="italics">La Reine des Fleurs</HI>
082.sgm: (a nickname which is far from suitable).  Both are noted for their avoirdupois and their independence, and are on the high road to financial independence if they do not dissipate what they have earned and saved.</p><P>On Sunday, September 8, 1850, the doctor and I departed shortly after dinner.  This date brought back memories of Passavant and its fe&circ;tes which, for over fourteen years, were so merrily celebrated by our relatives and friends with festivals, songs, dancing, and happiness.  Everyone was always gay, jolly, and full of spirits on those memorable occasions.  Year after year this same large celebration was held at the homes of various neighbors, although we had other smaller gatherings in the intervals.</p><P>The last year this fe&circ;te was held I was on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: in mid-ocean.  To-day I am tramping, pack on back, across plains and over the mountains in America with no definite goal in view and without being able to see even in the far distance what I am struggling for with every ounce of physical force and moral energy I have left in me.</p><P>I feel just as if I were continuing in the nineteenth century the traditions embodied in the legend of the Wandering Jew, with the single exception of his invincible five sons.  And how is this fe&circ;te-day being passed in Passavant in this present year of bad grace, 1850?  Sadly, I imagine.</p><P>All the news you have had from me has been far from encouraging or reassuring regarding my future.  To lose courage, however, is the worst thing that can happen to any of us.  But my head and heart are both heavy with memories of the past.  This introspection, however, is broken into by talks on various practical subjects with my comrade in misfortune as we follow the dusty road leading to Santa Cruz, a road that leads across barren plains, dusty, sun-beaten, and arid even in the early autumn.</p><P>Here and there we come across a <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
082.sgm:, or pass a small house by way of breaking the monotony of our journey.  Usually these have a gardener living in them--a Frenchman, Spaniard, or perhaps a German.  To my amazement I saw emerge from behind the hedge of one of these gardens an aged Indian who was small, ugly, decrepit, and armed with a bow, arrow, and quiver.</p><P>To amuse himself he shot at some ravens while we looked on, but he missed most of them.  We did not expect to meet such a wild looking savage around here near a village and in a fairly well settled and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:civilized community.  He mumbled a few words of Spanish and I finally managed to understand that he had come down from the placers where a miner had taken him for his servant.  He sold us a melon; I wonder if he gave the money to his master.</p><P>After three hours' walking we reached the western edge of the plain.  Ahead of us loomed a chain of mountains--the coastal range--which lay between us and the Pacific.  These run parallel to the coast from north to south.  At the foot of the lower slopes, which are covered with magnificent forests and command an extensive view over the vast plains we had just crossed, stood Rancho Hippolyte, so-called because a Frenchman by this name had married the daughter of the proprietor, an old Californian.</p><P>It was a fine property, being picturesquely situated and traversed by a little river.  This Frenchman, with his wife and family, is one on whom fate has lavished her favors.  Men are not all equally favored--despite revolutionary maxims.</p><P>In the hope of meeting the owner, a fellow-countryman from whom we might acquire some useful information, we went to the door, gave our names, and disclosed the object of our visit.  Unfortunately the owners were absent and we met only the feminine head of the household, an attractive young matron, and some pretty little girls.</p><P>Under ordinary circumstances we might have had a pleasant visit, but luck was not with us.  They could not speak French, and we understood only a few words of Spanish.  This made it impossible to carry on a conversation which might have given us a chance to pay a few compliments--which always please the ladies.  Deprived of this privilege I had no recourse but to study their ways and carefully observe the setting and the characters of those before us.</p><P>As we had entered unexpectedly we found the entire family at dinner.  This consisted of a bowl of beans ( <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
082.sgm: ), meat, <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
082.sgm: --a kind of dried pancake used in place of bread--and for dessert, a watermelon.  Everything was placed on the floor right in the middle of the kitchen.  Everyone had already sat down but they did not invite the unexpected guests to share their repast.  Hospitality, apparently, has not penetrated to this remote spot as yet.  Nevertheless, in all fairness to these occupants I must say that they offered us a glass of water--and two watermelons which we paid for.</p><P>After resting half an hour, highly edified with the hospitality we had received and properly grateful for being allowed the shelter of their roofs, the water from their pitchers, and chairs to sit on, we took our departure.  Shaking the dust from our shoes as we crossed their threshold we gaily started off laughing over this amusing little episode <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:as we followed the winding path through the forest.  Now and again we looked back across the vast stretches of uncultivated lands now lying idle, fields which are capable of feeding four times the present population of California.</p><P>For two hours more we climbed through the woods.  Then suddenly we came out into a little valley.  Here some Americans--possibly its first occupants--were living.  They had built a sawmill near a little waterway which, in the rainy season, is strong enough to furnish power to saw the wood that is cut down during the summer months.  The plant had been temporarily shut down, but within a radius of two kilometers the ground was littered with fallen logs and with millions of feet of redwood waiting to be sawed.<ANCHOR ID="n34">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34">The first lumbering in California was carried on in the redwoods of the Santa Cruz Mountains.  Isaac Graham established his sawmill on Zayante Creek in 1842.  Bayard Taylor says he had five mills in 1849, but of this I have no confirmation.</NOTE>
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082.sgm: which we might have leased, had we been able to find the owner, as it was for rent.  But it will probably still be on the market to-morrow, or the day after.  I understand the terms are very favorable and that the proprietor is extremely anxious to find a tenant.  The property consists of one square league of land, a house, some fenced-in pasturage, and three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:the country into factions to such an extent that the Mexicans were powerless to check the American conquest.  From the day when the Yankees won out and California became a part of the United States a new era dawned for this country which, at the present writing, is rich and almost virgin territory.  Those who had confiscated the Missions, however, soon had to suffer all the anguish of retaliation--their new properties were taken over, in turn, by their lords and masters the Yankees.</p><P>The town of Santa Cruz is spread out on a large tableland that commands a view of the harbor.  Its population is estimated at between five and six hundred residents.  Half of these are Mexicans and Californians, one-fourth Americans, and the rest Indians, Jews, and foreigners.  There are only a few Frenchmen among their number.</p><P>Though the governing of the town still centers in the <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
082.sgm:, whose title and functions are purely Mexican, the control will soon pass over into the hands of three authorities, the judge, sheriff, and mayor.  The most important influential person in the village, after the <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
082.sgm:, is a Franciscan father, cure&acute; of Santa Cruz, who is quite unpopular.</p><P>This father, though he has taken the vows of poverty, is avaricious and reputed to be very wealthy.  He accepts money, gifts, and alms, and under the name of a lay-brother owns a ranch near here which is valued--though perhaps this figure is inflated--at a million piasters.</p><P>Inasmuch as I had decided to try to find Brother Doubet and straighten out my affairs with him, the day after we got in--September 10, 1850--the doctor and I went to call on the cure&acute;.  As we did not know what kind of a reception we might get, to break the ice a little we brought along ten ducks we had shot the night before on the roadside.</p><P>In all civilized countries two strangers who presented themselves under such auspicious circumstances with the manner, if not the clothes, of gentlemen, would be hospitably welcomed with at least an outward appearance of cordiality.  With this expectation we walked over to the presbytery.</p><P>Ushered in through the kitchen, in passing through we noticed many women and children.  I could not understand why so many women were necessary to wait on a single man who rarely sees anyone or has any company, nor what all these children were doing here in the home of an old and ugly monk who is supposed never to look at a woman--although he may not be above temptation.</p><P>To punish, no doubt, my wicked and uncharitable thoughts which I concealed under a most circumspect manner, a most unforeseen dilemma arose.  Upon entering we had spoken to one of the most intelligent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:looking women--most of whom were half-breeds--and asked to see the cure&acute;.  As he could not receive us immediately we offered the delicate and plump birds to her for His Reverence's supper.</p><P>We then inquired for Abbe&acute; Doubet who acts as a kind of understudy to the cure&acute;, doing all his chores, saying mass, receiving visitors, answering the mail, confessing, baptizing, marrying, and visiting the sick and needy.  For thus lightening the burdens of his superior he is given, by way of compensation, wretched food and lodging.  What extras he gets are bestowed through the charity of some devout members of his parish who take pity on him, or through the kindness of the American Protestants--although the latter are supposed to place material interests above religious fervor.</p><P>If mass were not sung at the Catholic church at Santa Cruz on Sunday, the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
082.sgm:, and their families would not come to town; they would go somewhere else, or stay at home.  When mass is held they usually attend, spend the day, and lavish money in the neighborhood, either in the gambling houses, stores, or cafe&acute;s.  For this diversion they donate as much as they do to the church.  Frequently they have an extra mass held for them accompanied, often, by a group of Indians playing violins, or with simple religious music.</p><P>The Americans are practical if they are not orthodox.  A burial without any pretense at luxury and with only the barest essentials costs nearly one hundred dollars out here.</p><P>Finally I found Abbe&acute; Doubet.  He has a very pious manner.  Without waiting for me to present my claim he told me that for the present it was impossible for him to pay me.  Then he told me his tale of woe, how he had been duped, it seems, by a sharper with whom he had gone into partnership and who took everything he had.</p><P>I am at a loss to know why he went into business.  All I do know is that the Bishop of San Francisco heard of the disgraceful position he was in and that all his explanations did not clear him in the eyes of his superiors.  By way of punishment he was sentenced to a year of hard labor at Santa Cruz.</p><P>I believe, however, that his year will soon be over for he told me he expected to leave shortly for San Francisco.  He has assured me that when he gets there he will secure funds and pay me.  With this promise we left the poor, pitiful Abbe&acute; Doubet, who is probably the unfortunate victim of his own zealousness rather than a rascal, despite the mystery that enshrouds the past, present, and the future of this gentle, strange being who seems abandoned both by God and man.</p><P>In leaving this inhospitable presbytery--we had not even been offered a glass of water--as our purses were empty and our stomachs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:hollow, we were sorry we had given our ducks away for they would have made us two good dinners.  Instead, we shall have to feast on beefsteak from the hotel, which is invariably tough and expensive.</p><P>We have only met one French family here, the Bacon family.  They are newcomers and have opened a bakery.  This is a business which before Bacon's arrival had not been established in this budding village, for the American substitutes for baker's bread little hot biscuits which are cooked fresh in the oven for dinner, and the Mexican, in place of bread, has <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
082.sgm:.  For this reason up to the present moment the lack of a bakery has not been noticed.</p><P>Upon going to see Mr. Thomas Pallou, who knew the purpose of our trip, he sent us over to see his brother, Mr. Fourcade, a Frenchman from Bordeaux, who married the daughter of a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
082.sgm: and who owns property about two leagues from here.</p><P>On the morning of September eleventh we left Santa Cruz to visit this <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
082.sgm:.  Toward four o'clock we reached our destination.  Mr. Fourcade, the owner and manager it appears, was formerly a sailor whose ship was confiscated or deserted by the crew when the placers were discovered in California.</p><P>Fourcade stayed in California and tried his luck at the mines where he had remarkable success; within three months he took out nuggets valued at thirty thousand dollars.  Then, since he had been one of the first to reach and exploit these particular placers the mines were named after him.  These diggings are famous even as far south as this.  To cap the climax he had his heart, fortune, and hand accepted by a rich Californian.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
082.sgm: contains between eight and eleven square leagues of land.  Just now it is in litigation over a boundary dispute; the case is still pending.  We noticed, as we walked around, that it looked like a fine piece of property; it has three kilometers of seacoast, running water on it, not to mention fields suitable for pasturage, meadows, woods, and soil adaptable for use in making bricks.  He has offered us a certain number of animals, access to the ocean, and an acre of land on the shore for a landing.  As all this seemed like an attractive proposal we were about ready to sign an agreement.</p><P>While we were discussing all these points with Mr. Fourcade he graciously invited us to spend the evening with his family.  We accepted his invitation without ceremony, hoping in this way to settle all the minor points during the course of the evening.</p><P>Orders to kill a two-year old steer were immediately given with as much unconcern as a French farmer would show in ordering chickens dressed for extra guests.  A Mexican servant mounted on horseback <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:started off, lasso in hand, after an animal.  He brought it down at a distance of thirty feet, turned around, and returned dragging this victim, tied by the horns, behind him.  He then severed the animal's head with one blow, threw it away, and cut the remainder into quarters.  All this did not take more than twenty minutes.</p><P>After quickly grilling some steaks our meal was ready.  The menu was simple: red beans, which were fairly good, an abundance of meat, <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
082.sgm:, and fresh water.  Tea, coffee, wine, and brandy may occasionally be used here but of this I am not certain.  At all events they are reserved for state occasions.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Sen&tilde;ora</HI>
082.sgm:, the mistress of the house, is young, pretty, and in an interesting condition.  She did not dine at the table with her husband and brothers-in-law.  Five of us counting Fourcade and his brothers enjoyed the feast; the fifth was a relative of the woman.</p><P>In the course of the conversation the purpose of our visit was again broached.  It was then that a number of difficulties and obstacles put in an appearance.  They were quite willing, it seemed, to rent us part of the <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
082.sgm:, but first of all it was necessary to have the <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
082.sgm: divided among the eight co-owners and to obtain the consent of the grandmother.</p><P>Neither did they care to rent for over three years and we wanted a six years' lease with the privilege of buying at a price fixed in advance to be applied against the rental, for we hoped eventually to make the lands valuable.  Our host, without refusing our proposition, asked permission to defer his reply until next December, hoping, so he said, that the property would by that time be divided.</p><P>In this country a deal delayed is a deal lost.  This was our conviction when, toward nine o'clock, our host escorted us to the apartment reserved for us.  It was a dirty, untidy place close to the ground and with mud walls thickly covered with dust, a door that refused to close, and broken panes of glass.</p><P>The hides of a few horses were spread on the floor and were used to sit or sleep on.  Everything was primitive and extremely simple; I understand the owners' quarters are equally uncomfortable, and yet they are considered to be wealthy <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
082.sgm:.  Moreover, I do not think the Fourcades are like so many local ranch-owners who do not know any better way of living.</p><P>Had we not been afraid of offending these people we would have camped out in the open, but such a move might have seemed like repaying courtesy with rudeness.  So we resigned ourselves to the situation and with a clear conscience lay down to sleep the sleep of the just.</p><P>First of all, however, here is some gossip about this household-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:true or false as it may be--that is being circulated around the country.  On the surface it seems far from charitable, and what surprises me is that it is known as there is little visiting out here between families because of the great distances.  It concerns the domestic life of my hospitable hosts, the Fourcades.</p><P>Now when anyone speaks of them they are mentioned in disparaging tones as small, blunt men, and if anyone asks whether they are married, there is an embarrassing silence, for theirs is a three-cornered establishment and no one knows what the status of the one woman is.  Perhaps in California there is a sacrament that blesses such a union, but it does not meet with local approval.</p><P>In France there is constant visiting back and forth between neighbors.  But in California, this country with the future, it is possible to travel forty kilometers without meeting a solitary person.  It is barely possible that this same custom existed here in times past among the natives and that they exchanged visits between tribes.</p><P>Early on the morning of September twelfth we left our hosts and returned to Santa Cruz.  As the day was a fe&circ;te-day we joined in the singing of mass, accompanied by violins and other discordant instruments.  Being provided with a letter from the  cure&acute;--sent by this Capuchin father to his rich brother land-owner--after an exceptionally good dinner we left for San Juan.</p></DIV>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>[SAN JUAN BAUTISTA]</HEAD>
082.sgm:<P>For three hours our route followed the coast.  We passed one fine <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
082.sgm:, owned by a rich Californian who, like most of his associates, is uneducated and unable to read or write.  Riding, gambling, playing, drinking, swaggering, and brutality take the place of this elementary knowledge and seem essential to the happiness of these isolated ranchowners.</p><P>Next we ran into a forest where, after six hours' walking, we camped at sunset near a brook and dined off a duck the doctor had shot.  This took the place of the deer he fired at and wounded, but which got away.  Tired though comfortable, after building a blazing fire we went to sleep.</p><P>On the morning of the thirteenth, having cooked breakfast we got under way once more.  The trail was clearly and unmistakably marked.  On the way we saw hundreds of ducks which let us get up close to them but, as ammunition was getting low, we let many good chances to fire escape.</p><P>Toward eleven o'clock we came to a ranch-house on the left of the road.  The firing of a gun across our path brought us to an abrupt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:stop.  The owner of this property was an old, pure-blooded Californian, who spoke nothing but Spanish, but who liked to live well--at any rate this was the impression he gave--and when we went inside we found a lavish board spread which was being enjoyed by six or more relatives and friends, both men and women.  We did not know whether a celebration was being held or whether this was merely a family gathering and the way they lived every day.</p><P>Whatever it was we noted an atmosphere of comfort and luxury not usually found at ranch-houses.  A white cloth covered the table which held six platters of meats and vegetables.  With the food was served not plain water but tea, wine, and brandy, which were passed around at the table.</p><P>The noticeably happy faces, the sparkling eyes, and the shrill voices gave an air of animation to the gathering.  When the <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
082.sgm: saw us he came over, greeted us pleasantly, and in a cordial, almost effeminate voice invited us to share the dinner.  The hour, our appetites, a certain amount of curiosity, courtesy, and this unexpected meeting made us a little timid and over-scrupulous, for we made a shabby appearance.</p><P>We accepted, however, and spent an hour at the table with all these good people.  Although we enjoyed eating and drinking, the difficulty was in making ourselves understood and being able to return the hospitality with gracious words, compliments, and a description of our travels.</p><P>Eventually we compromised by a jargon of French-Spanish.  In this way we were finally able to understand that the owner of the property would be willing to lease but that his wife opposed it, though apparently without any good reason.</p><P>As it would have been discourteous to have pressed the matter further we dropped the subject and enjoyed the dinner.  I cannot say too much in favor of these genial hosts whose names, I am sorry to say, have slipped my memory.  We took a decided fancy to this property as it was admirably situated at the head of the great plain that stretches from here to San Juan and over to the town of San Jose&acute;.  From there it reaches on north to within two leagues of San Francisco.  It is broken only by a few low hills.</p><P>Near the ranch-house was a forest and, not far away, a small lake.  The lake was covered with hundreds of wild duck.  The sea lay only about four leagues away, while San Juan was some nine leagues from the property.</p><P>By noon we were on our way; so far our trip had been tiresome and fruitless.  We tramped in the heat of the day which at this time of the year is never less than 25&deg; to 30&deg; centigrade.  Here and there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:across the plains a solitary ranch-house loomed up in the distance.  These dwellings, as a usual thing, were ten or fifteen kilometers apart.  To visit them would have meant detours and, so far at least, such visits have not been altogether a pleasure.</p><P>Between each <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
082.sgm:, marking the boundaries, stood a hut occupied by a shrewd speculator who had planted a little garden and was living there in a simple, frugal manner.  When the surveyor finally arrives and settles the boundary disputes--most of these are still in question--there will probably be considerable unclaimed land between ranches which squatters can claim up to the amount of one hundred and sixty acres.</p><P>This explains the isolation, the patience, and the simple life of these modern hermits.  Had I not known this I should never have understood why they lived as they did unless some catastrophe had given them a distaste for society, although they did not seem like misanthropes.</p><P>All this flat country is covered with half-wild steers, cows, and horses that roam the ranges in herds of hundreds and even thousands.  As soon as these creatures saw us in the distance they would lift their heads high in the air, bellow and neigh, then turn and scamper off.  Then they would stop abruptly some hundred meters farther on, turn around with a menacing air as if hesitating between flight and attack, and then go on again.</p><P>What would be left of two poor travellers like us if we were trampled on by these thousands of hoofs and attacked by all these horns in case the herd declared war in the councils they held at those particular moments?  Even to think of it makes me shiver.  After a moment's hesitation--it seemed like hours--the enemy would go on, but they kept up these tactics until they vanished in the distance.</p><P>Half an hour later another herd duplicated this performance and went through exactly the same man&oelig;uvers.  We were just beginning  to get used to it when one of them, stronger and braver than the rest, charged toward us, stopping only a hundred feet off.  It was not a moment too soon.  Fortunately courage and ferocity do not always go hand in hand or we might have quickly passed on to another and better world.</p><P>Shortly after this experience we came to a large <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
082.sgm: which we decided to visit.  Although several of the buildings were in ruins they were inhabited by all the skunks in the neighborhood, who had forced everyone else to move out.  This is probably why the proprietor and his family have departed.</p><P>Ground-squirrels--little gnawing animals resembling gray <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:water-rats--are always under foot wherever one steps.  With bushy tails held high these drab creatures sit by their holes ready to disappear at the slightest disturbance.  They are fairly good eating but the large gray forest squirrel is more delicate.  These creatures, together with grasshoppers and frequent droughts, are the bane of agriculture in this part of the country.</p><P>Finally we reached <HI REND="italics">Rancho del Padre</HI>
082.sgm:, owned by the cure&acute; at Santa Cruz, and reputed to be one of the most valuable in California.  It is ably and intelligently managed.  We felt certain of a warm and cordial welcome since we had a letter of introduction from the Franciscan father to his brother who manages the property.  Others had received us without credentials so why should we not expect the same here?</p><P>Confident of such a reception we passed through several entrances and finally found ourselves in an enclosed court.  On one side was the main building; on the other three sides were sheds.  In this patio, surrounded by Indian servants, was a large man well along in years, with a wrinkled countenance, who seemed like a man of the lower classes.  He was busy melting tallow in an immense kettle.</p><P>This was the master of the house, so we bowed and presented our letter.  He read it, placed it in his pocket, and returned to his tallow, merely making a slight motion with his head as much as to say "Well, <HI REND="italics">au revoir</HI>
082.sgm:, God bless you!"</p><P>We lost no time in leaving this gross, ugly man--who had not so much as offered to let us rest under his roof or given us a drink--more indignant than surprised at finding a manager who acted as superciliously as a rightful owner.</p><P>In going out of the gates the doctor and I looked with famished eye at an enormous piece of fresh meat hanging there to dry in the sun before it was sold or fed to the Indians.  We asked permission to buy some, saying we would pay for it.  They had the generosity to decline our offer, so we threw some small change to the Indians, not caring to be under obligations to the inmates.</p><P>Then we stopped a short distance up the road and prepared dinner under the shade of a convenient tree, bitterly regretting the loss of the ten ducks we had so generously given the Franciscan father at Santa Cruz and which had been repaid in so inadequate a manner.</p><P>Life is full of the unexpected.  On the same day inhospitably treated in the morning by one from whom we might have had a right to expect different treatment, at five that same afternoon we were most courteously assisted by a stranger to whom we had no letter of introduction.  What a hideous thing wealth wedded to avarice is!  By way of retaliation we made all sorts of puns about him and wished his establishment ill-luck, while we ate our meager lunch.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:ground, or were about to fall--something like five thousand kilograms--and two hundred dollars toward building the press.  They were also to bear half of any additional expenses and split profits with us.</p><P>To us this offer seemed munificent, and, if all went well, it might lead to other offers.  This may be fortune, in the form of apples, knocking at our door.  It would be absurd not to seize this wonderful opportunity.  So, after a few moments' deliberation we accepted this proposition and drew up an agreement binding on both parties.</p><P>I was chosen to find a native of Normandy who knew how to make first-class cider, to get some kegs from San Francisco, and to arrange to market the cider when it was shipped.  This sounded very fine and everything that evening looked roseate.</p><P>All night long I dreamed of making my fortune and early the next morning I hurried off with a light heart for San Francisco after saying good-bye to Doctor Briot and my boarding-house keeper, a Frenchman named Coche who had been out in Africa where, so he said, he knew my brother Adelstan.  He was born near Jussey, but is now settled permanently in California.</p></DIV>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>[SAN JUAN TO SAN FRANCISCO]</HEAD>
082.sgm:<P>I walked along what seemed like an endless path that led across the immense plains where the ground, riddled by gopher holes, was arid and parched from lack of water and too much sunshine.  The scenery was monotonous owing to the absence of trees and habitations.</p><P>By way of diversion, like the milkmaid with her pail of milk in La Fontaine's fable, I built castles in California, visualizing mounds of apples from which flowed rivers of cider.  I travelled in this way as far as I could until my strength gave out and I had to stop for a rest and supper.</p><P>Fortunately I had taken the precaution to carry along a bottle of plain water.  Without it I should have died of thirst for I did not find any water for two leagues.  After eating two biscuits and a cake of chocolate--a modest but satisfying repast and all I had with me--I then lay down at the foot of a solitary stunted tree and with the barren plains stretching out on every side as far as the eye could see I went to sleep for the night.  My slumber would have been deep had it not been for the cries of coyotes and the noises made by horses and wild cattle that broke the peace of the night and interrupted my sleep.</p><P>I was fortunate enough during the day to find a little house on my route, but it had no caretaker and apparently no occupants to give me food and shelter.  But by this time I had grown accustomed to almost anything.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:the four Mexicans and after many <HI REND="italics">gracias</HI>
082.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm: by a group of Frenchmen, Germans, and Americans.  Among this group were two pretty women.  For the sum of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:three thousand dollars the <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
082.sgm: on horseback who was accompanied by two children on another mount.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>[SAN FRANCISCO, 1850-51]</HEAD>
082.sgm:<P>After taking leave of our hosts we wended our way toward Mission Dolores, arriving there an hour later.  Here Mr. Blanchard left me and went on to San Francisco.  We had heard rumors on the road that another extensive fire had destroyed the commercial section of the city, but we had no details of the disaster.</p><P>For this reason I stopped at the Mission where Elior de Grivel and his cousin have been staying since the Hotel des Deux Mondes was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
082.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
082.sgm:reduced to ashes and the fourteen hundred dollars they had invested in it had vanished.  I found my two friends there busily engaged in gardening and stoically accepting the losses they had just suffered.</p><P>The San Francisco I found upon my arrival had already been partially rebuilt and was ripe for a new conflagration.  Doctor Briot has placed at my disposal the shack he put together out of odds and ends of lumber some six months ago, which is on the outskirts of the city.</p><P>So this was where I made my headquarters.  And here hundreds of white rats and millions of fleas in the sands near my shack kept me company in my tiny box-like residence just nine meters square.  Outside, the shack was made of rough boards; within it was arranged like a ship's cabin with three bunks one above the other.  A box served for a seat, a plank for a table, and a hole covered with glass for a window.  On the floor was a layer of fine sand--the camping-ground of a colony of fleas which hopped around looking for a chance to make a good meal off me.</p><P>Despite my caution I supplied them with sustenance all evening, though I slaughtered enough of the creatures to fill a large graveyard.  And by the time I was ready to retire my legs were literally covered with these blood-thirsty insects.  So throwing myself down on the highest bunk I took a small bottle of alcohol and, letting my legs dangle over the sides, I rubbed them together rapidly, put on alcohol, and so got rid of all these inconvenient parasites.  This was the price of sleep.  But the next day I had to repeat the same performance.</p><P>The evening I arrived the <HI REND="italics">Gre&acute;tye</HI>
082.sgm:, a ship from Ha&circ;vre, came into port.  On board was our third shipment of merchandise.  As Veron has resources he ought to be able to help get them out and help pay the customs and the freight.  He prefers, however, to spend his time and money for the benefit of Mr. Lamole&grave;re, although he derives no benefit from that connection.</p><P>So I am obliged to look after our mutual business by myself.  In order to release even a small part of the goods I had to get a consignee who was willing to take charge of releasing and selling them for our company.  Since the French houses have suffered severely from the fire and their financial standing has been weakened I went to an American firm, Starkweather, McClenchat &amp; Co.  Despite their long name I think that our affairs will be well-handled.</p><P>The goods from our first two shipments have been in the customs so long that they will have to be sold at once.  Had there been no fire we would have considered it a lucky speculation.</p><P>In the mornings I breakfast, or rather have a bite to eat such as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm: This was California, their youngest adopted sister, whom they surrounded with care, attentions, and adulation.  Hurrahs by the thousand greeted this ingenious allegory as it passed the spectators.  By nature the Americans are very impressionable.  Anything that strikes their imaginations and makes their hearts flutter is translated into noisy manifestation.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n35">This float is the subject of a famous painting.  The little girl was Mary Eliza Davis, a granddaughter of the pioneer, George C. Yount.  She was born in San Francisco in 1845, became the wife of Dr. George J. Bucknall, and is still living in her native city.  She is San Francisco's first Anglo-Saxon child and an honored member of this Society.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>The fire-engines were also there, shining, powerful, and impressive-looking machines, decked with flowers and streamers and drawn by four horses.  A typographical press that was being operated also passed, mounted on a float.  From it printed literature was distributed to the multitudes, including a song, composed for the occasion, that was to be sung in the main plaza when the orator's speech and the Marseillaise were over.<ANCHOR ID="n36">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36">This ode was written by Mrs. Elizabeth Maria Bonney Wills, a lady of old New England family who came to San Francisco in 1850.  One of the original copies of the ode, printed for distribution at this Admission Day celebration, was given to the California Historical Society by the author's daughter, Mrs. Marianna A. Wills, together with the jewelled brooch bestowed upon her mother by the Common Council in token of their appreciation of the ode.Mrs. E. M. B. Wills established and conducted in San Francisco a fashionable school for young ladies with which her daughter was later associated.  Mrs. Marianna Wills was a member of this Society when she passed away in San Francisco, in November, 1925.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>All this time the Chinese were firing off pinwheels and crackers; these inventors of gunpowder are fond of celebrations, although firecrackers are not only noisy but extremely dangerous in a city built of dry wood where one lone spark could readily start a large fire.</p><P>Toward evening, as everyone was getting hungry and tired, the noise lessened considerably, but inside the houses where large and small dinner parties had collected the merriment continued.  In the evening there was a display of fire-works, the day ending with a ball.</p><P>It was a gala-day for many, but, after all, what did it all amount to?  Personally I went on my way as usual and dined as I always do.  After watching for a time this extraordinary spectacle, at nine in the evening I returned quietly to my palace of fleas, my present residence.</p><P>But all bright days have their dark side; scarcely any public gatherings are held that are not darkened by some calamity.  It was by one of the saddest catastrophes you can imagine that the gay and joyful day was terminated.  Just as the daily boat that plies between San Francisco and Stockton left the wharf loaded with passengers who had come to see the celebration, her boiler exploded, and the crew and passengers were blown into the sea.  As everyone was attending the fe&circ;te there were only a few persons near there to rescue them.  After some time forty dead and as many injured were taken from the water.<ANCHOR ID="n37">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n37"><P>The Marysville <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
082.sgm:, Friday, November 1, 1850:TERRIBLE DISASTER AT SAN FRANCISCO</p><P>The boilers of the Steamer Sagamore exploded on Tuesday afternoon at about five o'clock, as she was leaving Central Wharf.  The explosion was tremenduous, leaving her a complete wreck.  The Sagamore was running on the Stockton route.  There were a large number of passengers on board, including several females.  It is estimated that there was a loss of nearly fifty lives, though it cannot be exactly ascertained, as the passengers had not yet purchased their tickets and there was, consequently, no register of the names or of the number of persons on board.  Many of the survivors are very badly injured.</p><P>We believe this is the first steamboat explosion that has occurred in California.</p></NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>The latter were rushed immediately to the hospital and given first aid treatment.  There they were made as comfortable as possible and left, while the crowd returned to watch the celebration.  But at two o'clock that morning fire broke out in the hospital, which was built entirely of wood and, in less than half an hour, the building.  All those who had escaped drowning perished.  What could be more tragic!<ANCHOR ID="n38">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n38">The City Hospital, owned by Dr. Peter Smith, was situated at the head of Clay Street.  Some of the patients were severely burned, but it is reported that there were no lives lost.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>And yet this nocturnal tragedy passed almost unnoticed.  The violins continued to play, the singers to sing, and the strident voices of the croupiers to repeat their monotonous refrain, "Place your bets, gentlemen, place your bets."</p><P>The next morning the city was quiet once more.  The papers carried a detailed and enthusiastic account of the evening's celebration and only briefly mentioned down in one corner the sad accident, concluding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:by Vert and Montmert, two Frenchmen.  My room is on the ground floor off the main part of the building and is small and convenient.</p><P>There I shall open offices as a dealer in merchandise and furniture.  At the suggestion of Doctor Clergeon I am taking in as partner, clerk, and interpreter, Joseph Isnard, a hungry young man who has no money and who would starve if the doctor and some other friends did not look after him and invite him out to dinner.</p><P>As much on his own account as out of pity for the son of an impoverished family like our own I reluctantly yielded to the request of Clergeon and made an agreement with him.  These are our terms: All the money from commissions is to be handled by me, I am to pay all expenses, and at the end of the month any surplus is to be divided.  With tears in his eyes he gratefully accepted my proposal.  I was surprised, even touched, by his attitude and his sincerity.</p><P>We are now on the high road to fortune.  Isnard speaks the three necessary languages fluently.  I already know the ropes, and how business is done.  A rich American, Mr. Jones, who owns eight hundred building lots in San Francisco, offered me ten per cent commission on any sales I can make for him.  This will not interfere with my brokerage business.  If I have a run of good luck this year should make up for my losses in 1850.</p><P>I have just arranged with Mr. Buckliu [B. R. Buckelew], the prosperous editor of the <HI REND="italics">Public Balance</HI>
082.sgm:, to contribute a daily French column to his paper.<ANCHOR ID="n39">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: He has agreed to assign me twelve hundred words a day; the agreement does not stipulate what I am to furnish, whether it is to be on politics, literature, science, or whether it is to be serious or humorous.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n39">For the history of this paper see H. R. Wagner, <HI REND="italics">California Imprints</HI>
082.sgm:, San Francisco, 1922, pp. 45-46 <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
082.sgm:<P>Mr. Buckliu's idea is to get French subscribers and French advertising for his paper.  This new occupation is to be outside the company's business and is wholly a personal matter.  Our organization, however, will derive certain benefits through the French announcements I shall have the right to run, free of charge, in his daily.</p><P>So you see I have turned editor-in-chief, writer of advertisements, reporter, translator, and proof-corrector.  For this I am to receive six dollars a day, one hundred copies of his paper, and a share of the profits from any notices I bring in, as well as from the advertisements.  I estimate that it should all amount to fifty or sixty francs a day.</p><P>Fortunately the printer understands French fairly well in addition to English.  English words, however, have no accent marks.  I have two newsboys to sell my hundred copies.  One is Mr. Picot de Moras, a retired ex-officer who came from Jussey.  He is a first cousin of Baron Picot d' Aligny, and a relative of the Vicomte de Chifflet who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:was first president of the Court of Besanc&cedil;on in the last days of Charles X in 1830, which the government of Louis Philippe did not recognize as legal.  Picot de Moras seems to be a black sheep; his family should be glad he is far off in California.</p><P>My other news-vendor, his companion, is Mr. J. B. de Finance of St. Marie.  He must not be confused with the family of De Finance, one of whose members, Adolphe de Finance, is in California.  The latter I met in 1849 at Ha&circ;vre when he was looking for his namesake, a passenger on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:.  He himself came out on the <HI REND="italics">Georges</HI>
082.sgm:.</p><P>De Finance is a heavy-set, good-natured man, by occupation a carver of ivories.  Although he has had little education he is quite ambitious.  He can be ingratiating and courteous when he has some ulterior motive; he is rude and impolite in contrary cases.  He has little wit, judgment, delicacy, or constancy, and is utterly devoid of any moral sense.  He has already seen something of the world, having been in Spain and Algeria before coming to California.</p><P>When he came to offer his services to me he was as meek, humble, and inoffensive as a lamb.  We discovered later that he was a wolf in sheep's clothing.  Such is his history.  I venture to predict his ultimate downfall.</p><P>It is in these humble circumstances that you find me early in January, 1851, comfortably installed as editor, commission-merchant, business man, and one of the busiest of Californians.  From eight in the morning to the late evening all the Frenchmen who have just landed come to ask my advice about places, and merchandise--advice, in fact, about everything, financial assistance included.</p><P>These newcomers often present some perplexing problems.  Among them are promoters, miners, agriculturists, inventors, tourists, and budding writers who bring me voluminous manuscripts of no particular interest--which would fill our entire paper, leaving no space for news items.  Such is their longing for publicity that they offer all this prose to me for nothing.  But I treat everyone politely, without discouraging them.</p><P>Two attempts have already been made to give the French population a paper in their own language.  Jules de France, soon after he reached California set up Doctor Briot's press and issued three or four more or less humorous numbers [of <HI REND="italics">Le Californien</HI>
082.sgm: ] which did not sell well and only served to increase his debts.  As he had no credit he was obliged to end his journalistic venture--his supreme ambition--which he defined as "making songs and laughter."</p><P>Again in September, 1850, another attempt was made with better equipment and under better management.  A Canadian, Octavian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:Hoogs, who had a few dollars and some credit, leisure, energy, and Yankee ingenuity, assisted by Mr. J. Ancelin [Anselin], from Rouen or Ha&circ;vre, founded a paper [the <HI REND="italics">Gazette Republicaine</HI>
082.sgm: ] that came out as a tri-weekly.<ANCHOR ID="n40">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n40">First issue September 12.  Hoogs is said to have come from Boston.  No existing copies of this paper are known.--Wagner, <HI REND="italics">California Imprints</HI>
082.sgm:<P>It was a first-class sheet of medium size printed entirely in French.  But it was poorly edited by Mr. Ancelin, editor-in-chief, and his assistant, [H. J.] Mirandol, an intelligent, alert, and energetic young man who had gambled away his fortune on the Continent.  Over here he had also formed poor connections, allying himself with a house that did not have proper backing--Gauthier, Mirandol and Pioda.</p><P>The paper was clearly printed by Crane and Rice, American printers, but accent marks were omitted.  They had notices and advertisements, but subscriptions were lacking.</p><P>The French population is still too poor, too scattered, and too nomadic, and the means of communication is too expensive and uncertain for success to crown such an enterprise, unless backed by ample capital.  Fifteen numbers were sufficient to exhaust the resources of the money-lenders, and the paper went out of existence leaving behind discouraged promoters and uneasy creditors.</p><P>These were my predecessors in the field of French journalism in San Francisco.  To follow their errors would have been imprudent and any new venture would be hazardous.  The time is not yet ripe for a French press to be installed here that can stand on its own feet.  This is my deduction, and this is why I am not more deeply interested with its owner, Mr. Buckliu, in the <HI REND="italics">Public Balance</HI>
082.sgm: but merely send in translations.</p><P>What I have never seen and never expect to see is a capitalist, a big merchant, or a man of affairs who uses the press to get results.  It is used, as a rule, by men of an inferior order.  I come in contact, mainly, with the editor-in-chief, Mr. [Eugene] Casserly, a noted lawyer.  He is a good writer and a good talker, but he is so dominating that he wants to control the entire staff on his paper. After a discussion and disagreement between the literary and financial factions under him Mr. Casserly resigned.</p><P>He then raised funds and started another paper.  This he named <HI REND="italics">The Very True Public Balance</HI>
082.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n41">*</ANCHOR>
082.sgm: He took Ancelin along to edit the French column so that the reader at first glance could not distinguish the difference between the two papers.  As Buckliu had money he started a lawsuit which he won.  This forced Casserly to change the name of his paper to the <HI REND="italics">Daily True Standard</HI>
082.sgm:.  Moreover, he had to pay the costs.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n41">No paper with just this title has been known.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>Now, on February 1, 1851, we have two papers carrying a full <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:French column.  To assist him Ancelin has added to his staff a passenger from a ship from Ha&circ;vre, the <HI REND="italics">Joseph</HI>
082.sgm:, who bears the aristocratic name of Albert Besnard de Ruchail.  He is a Frenchman who fell in love and who came out to make a fortune for a charming but penniless English girl whom he wished to marry.  But since coming to California he has completely forgotten her.  After trying many different things he finally failed in Sacramento.</p><P>On his ship the crowd was less exclusive than on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:; there were comedians, outcasts, women of the lower classes, and workingmen.  One of the officers was Mr. Siebert, a brother of General Siebert.  After the trial, Casserly vs. Buckliu, the new editor [of Buckelew's <HI REND="italics">Public Balance</HI>
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082.sgm:these crushing words, "Do you dare doubt the word of the Marquis de Pindray?  I had intended to bring you the counter-deed but since you demand it this insult has turned me against you.  My word should have been enough."</p><P>Prudon was stunned, and convinced that such a villain would stop at nothing short of murder.  He did not have the determination of an American who, under similar circumstances, would have demanded justice on the spot.  He left in a daze, cursing his fate, and raging at his own carelessness, the treacherousness of the scoundrel and his acolytes who had purposely deceived him.</p><P>This episode over, De Pindray and La Chapelle, his valet, left for Union Town and the placers of Trinity River, taking along the animals from Prudon's <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
082.sgm:, together with some of his servants.  After he had squandered all his proceeds from the sale of these creatures--he sold off everything except a few horses--he did not reappear in San Francisco until January.</p><P>Prudon, at that time, got out a court order requiring De Pindray to make a report on the sale.  This De Pindray did; his statement showed a loss of ten thousand dollars.  Then he ordered Prudon to pay his half of the deficit at once or turn over to him the entire ranch.  Prudon, being already heavily in debt, could not raise this amount and could not afford to go to law.  With the aid of friends and acquaintances an attempt was made to reach some kind of a settlement.</p><P>As arbitrators Prudon named Doctor Clergeon and the consul, Mr. Dillon; De Pindray chose me to defend his interests.  At the present writing--early in the month of February--this is the way the affair stands.  In the course of these negotiations La Chapelle, a young journalist and one of the accomplices, had been trying for some time to get a settlement from De Pindray for his services.</p><P>At first this was bluntly refused, but when he pressed the matter De Pindray lost his temper and challenged him to a duel, offering to meet him at any hour of the day or night.  He also remarked that if he tried any tricks he would kill him.  But the prudent journalist, a man of letters but a coward and parasite, was careful not to accept the challenge, and so avoided meeting his adversary face to face.</p><P>Anyone who is observant and attempts to analyze the various types of men around him would be doing an injustice if he confined his interest solely to the eccentric and vicious characters.</p><P>For this reason, having sketched the silhouette of the strange De Pindray, I shall attempt to portray one of the outstanding American characters in San Francisco--Charles Duane.  He is a man some twenty-five or thirty years old, large, blond, a man of superb physique.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm::</p><P>We learn with regret that Mr. Anedee Fayole, actor and manager of the French Theatre in the city has just been assassinated in the office of his theatre when he refused to admit free of charge a certain individual, Charles Duane, who had no right to this privilege.  The latter shot him with his pistol, knocked him down, and struck him with his sword.  The life of the victim is despaired of and the criminal has been arrested.  We are now waiting to see whether the law is sufficiently strong to protect us from such assaults in San Francisco.  We trust that prompt and swift justice will be meted out in the interests of the public order and private safety.  This is the wish of all his friends.</p><P>The following day, February twenty-first, the Court of Records, where Charles Duane was being held for a preliminary hearing, was crowded with a mob of curiosity-seekers.  After hearing the witnesses, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<illus entity="a082-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SHIPMENT OF THE PRISONERS.  Charles P. Duane, Martin Gallagher, Billy Mulligan, Wm. Carr, Edward Bulger and Woolly Kearny, sent from the country, by the "Vigilance Committee of San Francisco," at two o'clock, A.M., June 5th, 1856.  From a letter-sheet in the collection of Mr. Templeton Crocker.</p></CAPTION>
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082.sgm: But I am anticipating events for the sake of convenience.  Let me go back to February twentieth.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n42">Charles P. Duane was exiled by the Vigilance Committee of San Francisco, at 2:00 A.M., June 5, 1856.</NOTE>
082.sgm:<P>Day after day the newspapers carried reports of numerous outrages, robberies, murders in the city at night, and even in daylight on the main roads.  It seemed as if every prison of every civilized country had sent the elite of its inmates out here to colonize this country.</p><P>Now and again the miners would leave their diggings, organize, arm, and start out on foot or horseback after the culprits.  Those who were caught were given a mock trial and then hung.  In some of the cities, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm: entered my office at the Hotel Richelieu on Pine Street and told me his troubles.  I did everything I could to help him earn a living.  As he was a good hunter and an excellent shot I offered him my gun and ammunition, which I was not using, telling him that game was abundant and commanded a fancy price on the market and that he should be able to make enough profit from hunting to start up a business.  He accepted my suggestion with alacrity, took my gun, and that was the last I saw of him.</p><P>Later I was told that he had sold my gun and ammunition, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:had left for the mines.  At the placers he found Doctor Daing--a passenger from the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: who was working a claim of highly productive ore.  The doctor welcomed him with open arms and took him into partnership.  This was indeed good fortune for the newcomer, and everything seemed harmonious.</p><P>But such generosity did not satisfy the ambitions of this man who had no conscience and no moral standards.  One fine day it was noted that their tent seemed deserted.  For a time the miners in the neighborhood paid no attention to what seemed like a normal situation--although it was known that the doctor had three to four thousand piasters with him--but when someone finally went inside all that was found was a corpse.  The gold had vanished!</p><P>The Sermans brothers, who were also on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm: and had come from the same section of France as Doctor Daing, on learning of his tragic end and the circumstances surrounding it offered one thousand dollars to anyone who would arrest the man to whom Doctor Daing had extended hospitality.  Notices to this effect were sent to all the papers, both French and English, in California.</p><P>It seems probable that the culprit is hiding with the Indians and that he will live for a time with them, nameless and without a country, marrying, raising a family, and perhaps even rising to the rank of chieftain.  Some time ago he lost his wife, and no one else knew his address.  However, I know where he came from, but out of consideration for his family, which is very prominent, I shall try to forget I ever knew him.  Furthermore, however strong our suspicions may be, we have no conclusive proof.</p><P>If many of our Neo-Californians have a pronounced taste for armed banditry many more are given to the less dangerous pastime of petty thievery and cheating.  Here is an instance of this latter, a case in which I personally was the victim.  The facts of the situation proved his guilt, and the instigator of this crime does not deserve any consideration for, when he had a chance to make amends, he let the chance slip by.</p><P>This is the story.  For three months Joseph Isnard had been in the brokerage business with me, and without much effort we had each made from five to twenty dollars a week profit with the chance of doubling this amount with a little extra industry.  This, it seems to me, ought to satisfy a young man, who had no business of his own and no capital.  Although I did not expect his gratitude, the least I expected was his cooperation and interest.</p><P>Isnard, however, disappointed me.  He proved to be a gambler, an idler, and a woman-seeker.  As I did not care to have our funds pass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:later sold out his interests at a profit--to the detriment of the owners and lessee--and with the proceeds established a business in Oregon.  This is one way of acquiring prestige in a new country!  The Travaillot family came originally from Doubs; they had an excellent reputation.  The Captain lived at Hotel Richelieu where I, too, made my head-quarters.  He had a prepossessing appearance and a generous, friendly, affable disposition, and was not the only one out here who was ostracized from France.  Bouchard, who succeeded Covillard as my landlord was similarly situated.</p><P>Bouchard, Captain on the long run from California to Ha&circ;vre, had left on a small ship--a bold and audacious venture--and had safely weathered the Straits [of Magellan].  When he got into San Francisco he decided to sell out on his own behalf.  But he was not able to enjoy the fruits of this transaction by himself.</p><P>His wife, an ordinary creature, soon followed him and made trouble, and his daughter, whom he was having educated at Ha&circ;vre, followed her mother's example.  Later when the opportunity offered she married Mr. Dubrenil.  The parents soon separated without ceremony; they were gross, unpleasant, and ignorant people.</p><P>Doctor Briot, who always disliked medicine--sooner or later he will be forced to practice--finally located at San Jose&acute; near his friend Jourdain; there he runs a pharmacy and in addition raises chickens and rabbits.</p><P>Pidaucet stayed at the mines.  Dechanet opened a little grocery store here in the city.  Bernot from Besanc&cedil;on has been playing the flute for a living, sometimes in San Jose&acute; and again in San Francisco.  Veron lost the two thousand francs he made at the mines through De Lamole&grave;re and Breton, an architect from Paris who came out on the <HI REND="italics">Ce&acute;re&grave;s</HI>
082.sgm:.  They thought they could make a success of farming without theory, experience, or capital.</p><P>He is now working for Mr. Humboldt of Langres--son of an old resident of that city--probably without salary.  He has written begging me to send him, through Mr. Baladia, a trunk of his personal belongings and any money due him from the sale of our last merchandise.  As he said he was in need of funds I immediately complied with the request of my dear cousin.</p><P>I have had word from the mines and understand that my friends Elior and Ernest de Grivel who went up on the Stanislaus River, having heard enthusiastic reports of the mines on the Salmon, left too late in the season for these rich placers--where miners have taken out a hundred pounds of gold in a few months--and were stopped by the snows and forced to turn back.  When later they finally got in, all the good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<P>NOTES</p><P>BY</p><P>CHARLES L. CAMP</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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082.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>NOTES</HEAD>
082.sgm:<P>The manuscript from which the present translation was made is the property of the Los Angeles Public Library and was purchased by them from the Torch Press in 1908.  We are indebted to the librarian, Mr. Everett R. Perry, for permission to publish this interesting account.</p><P>The manuscript is apparently a copy of De Massey's original journal which he carried about with him while in California and mailed to his relatives in France at intervals during the first two years of his sojourn.</p><P>This narrative, beginning with the arrival in San Francisco, was printed in Volume V of the <HI REND="italics">Quarterly of the California Historical Society</HI>
082.sgm:, in 1926.  The account of the voyage from France around the Horn is of great interest but is without particular bearing on California history.  It may possibly be made the subject of another volume.</p><P>The asperity of De Massey's remarks upon some of the men and women of his day might have been softened by the omission of names but the mellowing effect of time has made such mutilation of the narrative seem unnecessary.  It is obviously impossible to check up the accuracy of all observations on the character and personality of individuals.  We can only undertake to set down what is written and leave the rest to the best judgment of the future.</p></DIV>
083.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-083</TITLE>
083.sgm:<TITLE>Bound for Sacramento; travel-pictures of a returned wanderer, translated from the German by Ruth Frey Axe, introduction by Henry R. Wagner: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
083.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
083.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
083.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
083.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
083.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>38-12574</LCCN>
083.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
083.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 117471</COPYRIGHT>
083.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>Bound for Sacramento</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>Carl Meyer</p><P>Bound for Sacramento</p><P>Travel-Pictures of a returned wanderer</p><P>translated from the German by</p><P>Ruth Frey Axe</p><P>Introduction by</p><P>Henry R. Wagner</p><P>Saunders Studio Press</p><P>Claremont, California</p><P>1938</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT 1938 BY THE SAUNDERS STUDIO PRESS</p><P>PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA</p><P><HI REND="italics">This first edition is limited to</HI>
083.sgm: 450 <HI REND="italics">copies</HI>
083.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">which this is copy</HI>
083.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">Number</HI>
083.sgm: <HANDWRITTEN>75</HANDWRITTEN>
083.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>The Saunders Studio Press wishes to thank Mr. Phil Townsend Hanna, who has so graciously given his permission to reprint the three chapters of this translation that appeared in <HI REND="italics">Touring Topics</HI>
083.sgm:, in the June, July, and October numbers of 1932, in order to make available the entire text; Mr. Henry R. Wagner for calling our attention to its merits and for his fine introduction and finally, the Huntington Library for permission to use photostats of the original in its collection.</p><P>LINDLEY BYNUM, <HI REND="italics">editor</HI>
083.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>VII</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Table of Contents</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>Introduction<HSEP>IX<LB>On the Ocean!<HSEP>1<LB>I  On to the Isthmus of Panama<HSEP>7<LB>II  On to California<HSEP>38<LB>III  On to the St. Joaquin<HSEP>57<LB>IV  On to the Southern Gold Mines<HSEP>86<LB>V  On to San Francisco<HSEP>114<LB>VI  On to North of Upper-California<HSEP>146<LB>VII  On to the Klamath Region<HSEP>182<LB>VIII  On to New Helvetia<HSEP>213<LB>IX  On to Nicaragua and Home!<HSEP>241<LB>Notes<HSEP>271</p></DIV>
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083.sgm:<DIV><P>The following insert shows the page size of the original edition; the illustrations on the front and back of the paper covers; and the original title page.  Since the color of the cover stock was found not to be uniform, no attempt has been made to reproduce it.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>IX</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Introduction</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>Nach dem Sacramento, <HI REND="italics">the title under which Carl Meyer published this book in German in Aarau, in</HI>
083.sgm: 1855, <HI REND="italics">is not a journal but a series of word pictures--travel pictures in one place he calls them, a much more appropriate title for the book than the one he chose</HI>
083.sgm:.<HI REND="italics">Aarau is a small town in Switzerland in one of the German cantons, and Meyer himself was obviously a German Swiss.  The book gives every evidence of having been written by a highly educated man, possibly from some German university.  He had a good knowledge of contemporary German literature, especially of Schiller, from whom he quotes frequently, and also of botany and natural history.  From remarks about mines it seems possible that he may have been a mining engineer.  Why he came to the United States or ultimately to California he does not state, but, as he seemed to be sufficiently supplied with funds, it was probably curiosity, or, as he expresses it in several places, a desire to see the world.  Before leaving New Orleans for California he had done some traveling in the eastern United States.  There is no evidence that he was a gold-seeker, although he did, on one occasion, try his hand at mining.  In fact, he may have done more</HI>
083.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<HI REND="italics">mining than he discloses.  His great interest, however, lay elsewhere</HI>
083.sgm:.<HI REND="italics">In general, his movements through California can be fairly well traced, but there is no particular sequence assigned to them and there are a number of erroneous statements about occurrences of one kind and another, about which we have definite information from other sources.  This leads us to suspect that the book was written not from a journal but from memory.  This was, at times, sadly at fault.  For example, in his very first chapter he tells us that he left New Orleans at the beginning of February</HI>
083.sgm:, 1850.  <HI REND="italics">He meant</HI>
083.sgm:, 1849.  <HI REND="italics">Much later in the book he tells us that he went from Stockton to San Francisco in the spring of</HI>
083.sgm: 1850, <HI REND="italics">after having passed the winter at the Mariposa mines.  Furthermore, we have his statement that while he was at Alisal, W. E. Hartnell's ranch near Salinas, the youngest child was baptized.  Hartnell's youngest child, Arnulfo Benjamin, was born July</HI>
083.sgm: 18, 1849.  <HI REND="italics">According to the custom in vogue in the country baptism must have taken place very shortly thereafter.  It is to be presumed, therefore, that he reached Monterey on the</HI>
083.sgm: Sarah Elisa <HI REND="italics">some time in the early part of July.  He probably remained at Alisal for some little time, as Mr. Hartnell was very hospitable, and had received part of his education in Germany.  Hartnell was no doubt highly pleased with the opportunity to discuss Old World affairs with a cultivated man who spoke German</HI>
083.sgm:.<HI REND="italics">A study of the book leads me to suggest as most probable the following itinerary.  After leaving Alisal he proceeded by way of San Juan Bautista and Pacheco Pass to the San Joaquin late in the summer, as he tells us that the fruit was ripe on the trees at the San Juan Bautista mission.  He spent the winter at the</HI>
083.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XI</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Mariposa mines, where, as he expressed it, he and his friend, Whitfield, had a taste of mining life.  The next year, no doubt early in the spring, he left Mariposa and proceeded to Stockton.  From here he took a steamboat to San Francisco where he apparently arrived shortly after the May fire.  From this time on his movements are somewhat uncertain, but he must have remained in San Francisco until the early part of</HI>
083.sgm: 1851.  <HI REND="italics">He witnessed the blowing up of the</HI>
083.sgm: Sagamore, <HI REND="italics">October</HI>
083.sgm: 29, 1850, <HI REND="italics">although he says that it occurred early in</HI>
083.sgm: 1851.  <HI REND="italics">About the end of the year, probably in January</HI>
083.sgm:, 1851, <HI REND="italics">he departed for the Trinidad country, as the gold discoveries had brought about a tremendous rush to that section and he said he was glad to grasp an opportunity for a new bit of travel.  He remained there but a short time, however, mostly engaged in investigating the Indians whom he calls the Allequas.  These were the Yurok Indians, Allequa being a corruption of Alikwa, which in turn is a corruption of Olekwo'l, their name for themselves.  He journeyed as far as the Trinity River, but was soon back in San Francisco.  He tells us that he spent ten months in Sacramento; at any rate he spent part of that ten months there as he must have been back in San Francisco at least in October.  From Sacramento he made a trip to Mormon Island and some of the camps farther north and early in</HI>
083.sgm: 1852 <HI REND="italics">decided to leave the country.  He sailed on the</HI>
083.sgm: North America, <HI REND="italics">one of the Vanderbilt Line steamers, crossed the Nicaragua Isthmus and reached New York on the</HI>
083.sgm: Prometheus.  <HI REND="italics">Much of the book is devoted to philosophizing both on man and on natural phenomena.  Many of the author's theories are antiquated but the book throws a fresh light, and one from a</HI>
083.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XII</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<HI REND="italics">new angle, on the California of the days of the Gold Rush.  Meyer saw many things that other writers did not see, or at least did not notice, and some of these, such as his graphic description of a Mexican caravan from Sonora, will not be found elsewhere.  For this reason the translation is a distinct addition to the literature of the period</HI>
083.sgm:.</p><P>HENRY R. WAGNER</p></DIV>
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083.sgm:<DIV><P>Bound for Sacramento</p><P>(Nach dem Sacramento)</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>Dedicated to Mr. Heinrich Kurz</p><P>Doctor of Philosophy, Professor of German language and literature in the trade school, canton librarian of Aarau, member of the German Society of Berlin, and member of several other learned societies.</p><P>I feel justified in taking the liberty of prefixing your honored name to these modest leaves of travel pictures because of the enduring memories of my youth with which your name is inseparably bound up.</p><P>I had the good fortune to spend my last school year under your careful direction, from which sprang much that was beautiful and useful in later years.</p><P>Permit me to express publicly my sincerest thanks for this and all your other favors and to assure you of my faithful respect.</p><P>Your devoted student and friend,</p><P>Carl Meyer</p><P>Basle, Palm Sunday 1855.</p></DIV>
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083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>On the Ocean!</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Traveling is living and living is traveling<LB>We travel and are like the plants in the earth<LB>Each year with their new green covering.<LB>When traveling, to refresh the spirit comes mirth<LB>The gay muses in dancing rows, hovering,<LB>Promise us heaven on earth.<LB>Yes, living is traveling and traveling is living<LB>The traveler floats above the earthly sphere<LB>He learns to empty the beaker of pain and is willing<LB>And if he must enter Hell today, never fear,<LB>Some future day will bring courage and will be giving<LB>Strength to strive against need and danger.</HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>ONLY a traveler can be a good critic of the Great Book of the World.  The most varied pictures float before his eyes and mind until he has comprehended the whole universe, not only all its glory but also all its deficiencies and defects.</p><P>Living is happiness; traveling doubly so--it is life and happiness accelerated from the usually monotonous manner of living with its domestic humdrum.  It is well to have seen the world before one is placed beneath the earth and begins the new life.</p><P>Some travel in early youth.  In a quiet room the boy may trace on a map the route to far away places which his imagination, excited by reading, seeks.  He is fortunate if later years fulfill his youthful desires.  There are many thousands of our fellowmen who travel like the boy.  Shut up in a room they rummage in their pile of books by the rays of a gloomy lamp, and after they have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:looked themselves blind, after they have subjected their bodies to all the suffering of voluntary imprisonment, they believe they know the world, believe, in short, that they have traveled.</p><P>Oh, you poor people!  Go out into the colorful tides of the world!  You will learn more there in a year than from a lifetime of being a bookworm.</p><P>He who would travel should think over carefully whether or not he possesses the absolutely essential, deep-rooted, tenacious wanderlust which will enable him to defy everything that might hinder him in reaching his goal.  He must also avoid the extreme; he must fear travel frenzy.  As in everything else, he must act with common sense in traveling and not dash senselessly here and there.  He must not clothe his foolish activity with Mu&die;nchhausen's fairy-tales as in the proverb; <HI REND="italics">multum mentitur, qui multum vidit</HI>
083.sgm:, or, like Hebel's man who traveled and went out into the world for the sole purpose of finding something to make him "shudder".</p><P>The goal should not be chosen foolishly; he should think much before he acts.  Of course he whose bags are stuffed full at home by Papa and Mama is bothered more by the weight of the hard coin than by worry about his destination.  The choice of destination is of great importance for him who travels with little means but is rich in courage and enterprising spirit.  Not only does traveling cost much money but to cross the ocean exacts much effort and annoyance.  Whoever wishes to be quickly and gloriously recompensed for this should choose a land whose natural resources still offer enough material to be exploited, a land which is still but little inhabited and which permits him the free practice of his profession.  In short, he should choose a new land.</p><P>Of course a land but little civilized, still forming, and still developing is a new land, a market-place of human frailties and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:weaknesses where adventurers from every part of the world try to take advantage of each other in their trading.  Also it is a fairyland where happiness, as if brought to one by gnomes and dwarfs, fills life's cup of joy with its golden rays.  A new land is always to be preferred to an old one.  There man must venture more, but he has also more to gain.  Even the long sea voyage to reach a new land is advantageous.  The voyage steels his courage and spirit of enterprise and teaches him to find pleasure and advantage in the most dangerous environment.</p><P>So off and away to the sea, for him who feels strong and has made his decision!  But do not rush foolishly and blindly into the the breakers of life and the waves of the sea.  I have warned you!</p><P>How often moans and sighs are heard on the ship, "If I had only stayed at home; I would rather be dead than go through such terrors as these!"  Yes!  Yes!  If you had only stayed at home tied to your mother's apron strings.  There they would have told you about pleasure trips.  And now you who never felt a ripple on the surface of your life, have become a plaything of the turbulent waters and your cowardly heart trembles like the point of the storm-lashed bowsprit there.  So, "Off and away to the sea!" is not the call for you and your kind.</p><P>It is with you, you strong men whose courage shines in your eyes, with whom I would travel.  Hardly have you suppressed the repeated "Ah!, the <HI REND="italics">Alpha</HI>
083.sgm: of the sea voyage, with which in rigid astonishment you greeted the vast expanse of water, when already the sly sea god comes and bounces and shakes you so that body and soul seem threatened with death, and pale and sick you crawl away.  Sea-sickness approaches.  But how soon you recover!  It has purified your blood and brightly and cheerfully you climb up masts and over ropes, unable to overcome your astonishment at everything.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>You look up to the azure arch flecked with a few scattered clouds which dare not take up arms against the rising sun.  Tranquil above you the sky descends in the almost invisible distance where it melts into the water.  You stare again at the endless surface of wetness rippled by a soft breeze.  Again, you look at the furrow which paints the long wound made by the ship's keel as it cuts the water, pressed on by the lightly bellying sails.  Now look at the far horizon where small dark clouds appear and increase with wild rapidity.  Soon you will hear the thunder roar, first far away, and then ever nearer and nearer.  The blue of the heavens disappears behind a dark veil of clouds rent by a golden breach in the firmament from which the wind blows with full cheeks as from the gates of Hell.  The sails belly far out, the ropes knock against each other and masts and bulkheads creak and groan.  A battle of the elements will soon begin; a terrifying storm approaches.</p><P>Captain and helmsman stand calmly on the bridge and with a sure eye regard the battle.  The storm becomes more turbulent, thunder and lightning follow each other above you, stroke on stroke, and beneath you the unchained sea rages.  The threatening waves are thrashing house high, taking the ship with them, and from a dangerous height you look down fearfully into the opened abyss of this untamed flood.  Now you feel how small you are!</p><P>You are, however, just as quickly aware of man's greatness when, seeing the powerful progress of the ship, you recognize in its defiance the triumph of art over nature.  You look then without fear at the great and terrifying drama.  Who has not wished to see such a battle of the elements--naturally from a safe port--watching its bluster and roar and boiling foam hissing up to heaven?</p><P>Now your wish is granted.  That which terrifies and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:depresses the weakling, stimulates the brave.  Calmly you listen to the thunder dying away in the distance, watch the fire of the lightning fade.  The storm diminishes and the waves become quieter and more measured and seem to move forward regularly from their source.  This quick change of phenomena soon chases away the last trace of fear.  A sea voyage can make even a coward brave as the sailor who prays or whistles to the wind.</p><P>When you have finally passed through all these experiences of the sea, from delight to despair, and the sailor calls down from the mast that significant word "Land!" the trip receives a new and heightened charm.  Everything offers intense enjoyment to our gaze; it makes no difference whether it be the oak or pine forests of the north, or the tropical green of the south, whether the great cities of civilization or the poor bamboo huts of sunny lands.</p><P>Finally the ship runs into the harbor; that is a day of joy.  It is also a very important day which must awaken doubt in many, but a look before a leap helps every man through the world.  The greatest trick is adapting oneself to the conditions of the new country and becoming perfectly familiar with its language and customs.  Staying occasionally for a longer time in one place affords the opportunity to become more at home in a strange place which will prove advantageous in all ways.  The feeling of being at home in a strange land is always the herald of happiness and the partner of true enjoyment of travel.  It shows that you have a true conception of the country.</p><P>If the traveler has made himself at home in all parts of the world; if he has looked at its many wonders and had his deepest being awakened by storm and wind; if by going out into the world he has also come home; he then feels the need for quiet when "the secret deep wonders in his own breast reveal themselves".  He carries within himself his own world in harmony <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:with his views of life, a new homeland, where he finds again many a sweet note of memory.  That is, provided destiny permitted him to examine these quietly by himself and arrange and mentally express them.  He gains thereby a new pleasure from travel.  "Information," says Schiller, "makes our oft surmised feeling clear, significant and general."</p><P>So, since already many strange and memory-clouding things have happened and the trip will soon become a dream, I shall try to shake out from the savings bank of my memory a part of my travel experiences and briefly relate observations and the opinions bound up with them.  No one should, however, look for anything else in this narrative than a brief diary written by a nature lover and placed in a general frame, telling of places and objects which have been often already described by better pens.  These notes with their scanty information can perhaps appeal to the interest of the reader through the individual interpretation and the imprint of their conception.  May this not be lessened by the intentional delayed appearance of these travel pictures.  I have striven for this appeal in their presentation.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>I</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>On to the Isthmus of Panama</p><P>I HAD traveled across the United States of North America, made the acquaintance of Brother John [Uncle Sam] in his native country, and in the beginning of February, 1850, took ship in New Orleans for the Isthmus of Panama.</p><P>Quickly our <HI REND="italics">Sea Lark</HI>
083.sgm: flew across the Gulf Stream in the Gulf of Mexico and drew near Jamaica in its eastern curve.  The evergreen palm island lay before us like a garden floating between heaven and earth and we anticipated a grog of world famous Jamaica rum just as, before reaching Cuba, we had looked forward to the aroma of a true Havana.  Soon, however, the beautiful island was hidden by a cloudy veil, the winds howled, and the <HI REND="italics">Sea Lark</HI>
083.sgm: was whirled away by them through the Caribbean and the Gulf of Darien to the mouth of the Chagres, where we landed after a stormy twelve-day voyage.</p><P>The coastal voyage in the Gulf of Darien tends to gradually increase the astonishment which the first view of tropical scenery gives the newcomer.  A strange mood is also created by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:knowledge that here lies the scene of the most courageous enterprises of the first discoverers of this country.  There, on the rocky, sparsely wooded coast, Pedrario believed at every step he would find gold but in 1514 was convinced of his mistake upon noticing how poorly-clothed was Governor Enciso.  There too, encouraged by the alluring statements of a young Indian, Balboa's expedition, 190 strong, went on a voyage of discovery to the South Sea, on whose coasts Spain enlarged its piles of gold, only, like King Midas, to languish on them.  " <HI REND="italics">Paremos aqui en el Nombre de dios</HI>
083.sgm:,"<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: said Nicuesso, as he landed in Puerto Bello.  Thereupon he named the fort built by him Nombre de Dios, which now presents itself as a picturesque ruin to the elements for future complete destruction.  Before Chagres one is again reminded of the capture of Fort St. Laurent a century later by English adventurers, who then traversed the isthmus and under the Pirate Mongan [Morgan] destroyed Old Panama.  History and nature, both adventurous and stimulating, crowd here upon the newcomer at every glance and step, and fancy floats lightly between.  Meanwhile the ship, driven by a light east wind, glides to its haven of rest in the bay, plowing through the blue sea,--no, through a yellowish-green, broad field of seaweed and kelp, which seems to be very prolific in the warm waters of this ocean.  The plants grow so luxuriantly that while the new seeds break out from underneath, the upper layers decay from the effect of the sun's rays and become a slimy mass, which exhudes an unpleasant sea-tang odor.  The whole rich harvest, whose material worth would be apparent to the industrialist in the form of a noticeable iodine gas and in which the zoologist admires the lower animal world, is lost unnoticed, dissolving its elements in air and water.<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">"We appear here in the Name of God."</NOTE>
083.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">In this vegetable and animal act of decay alone lies the condition which maintains the rich swarm of plant and animal life to be found even in a drop of water.  The products of decay serve as food for the plants, which by means of their breathing process richly replenish the oxygen taken by the animals from the water.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>And so it is with many things in the Tropical-Paradise which seems sealed by the Angel of Death against the white race.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:In spite of this they dare to come to this strand; but they hurry on, driven by the "gold fever," the unquenchable thirst for gold, to the land of their desire on the Pacific Ocean.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>And every day new ones!<LB>Yes, that is a spur!<LB>Across Panama, across the mountains, around Cape Horn--<LB>They come from behind and they come from in front,<LB>They come and want to wash,<LB>I hear them slide, I hear them march<LB> Gold, gold, gold!<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>Now, I too had set foot on this tropical rim of the earth and looked with astonishment around me.  Behind the rocky foothill, crowned by the castle of St. Laurent, at the edge of a slope bounded by jungle, lies the town of Chagres in which various palm trees shade with their canopies the bamboo huts of the natives.  Both shores of the quiet river, which separates the town from the landing place of the ships, were thick with boats or <HI REND="italics">cayucas</HI>
083.sgm:.  Several sailboats rocked on their anchor chains in the middle of the bay, which was 250 minutes broad.  Several others lay wrecked on the rocky coast as proofs of the violent and dangerous storms which often assail these shores.  A steamer which did duty as both hotel and hospital, was continually engaged in towing ships in or out.</p><P>On the landing places the colorful crowd of emigrants increased hourly.  Tents were scattered over the place and hammocks hung between the trees were filled with tired or ailing returning gold seekers.  Several groups of quite strange adventurers, who could find no lodging either in the American log inn or in any tent, lay about in the shade of the palm trees.  Happiness and sorrow, joy and misery were in evidence on every side.  The hot sun made the air sultrily oppressive and the climate dangerous in this narrow gulf.  Time was valuable--one by one the <HI REND="italics">cayucas</HI>
083.sgm: disappeared upstream and with them the crowd of emigrants.  Finally the sailboats, freighted with those tired of California, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:were launched, and Chagres returned for several hours to its original state of desertion.</p><P>It was four o'clock in the evening when three German passengers and I from the <HI REND="italics">Sea Lark</HI>
083.sgm: pushed off from shore in a <HI REND="italics">cayuca</HI>
083.sgm: managed by two natives, father and son.  February is one of the most beautiful summer months here and we had glorious days suitable to crossing the isthmus which had been described as so difficult.  The boat pushed on by the splashing oar, glided gently towards the interior of the majestic tropical forest, and soon, surrounded by the most varied forms, the enchanted eye was delighted by the ingenious disorder of the exotic scenery.</p><P>Of course it requires a certain composure not to be overcome by childish feelings of joy when after a somewhat long sea voyage one places his uncertain feet with felicity on firm land; but double strength and self-denial is required to suppress this urge if soon thereafter he finds himself in a joyous tropical region where everything charms the soul with its newness and rarity.  Upon my arrival in Chagres I did not rejoice aloud, but stood quietly aside to observe and to obtain a quick conception of the strange customs and manners of the new land.  Here, however, on the river in the midst of this indescribably beautiful plant world I opened my full heart and the admiration which could not be formed in words expressed itself in a chain of exclamations:  "Man sighs and groans with Ah! and Oh! to give vent to his happiest feelings."</p><P>The shores of the Chagres are at first low and flat.  The jungle here consists solely of tall slim palms, from the <HI REND="italics">Palma real</HI>
083.sgm: to the <HI REND="italics">Palmito</HI>
083.sgm: with its grape-like fruit.  Where these do not shade the damp earth, grasses and lilies of the monocotyledons fill out the spaces.  The swordlike aloe and the oar shaped leafed banana, which shows the peculiar tropical leaf-green in all its nuances, grow down to the edge of the river where, bending <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:their inclined leaf points in a slight arch, they dip into the blue wetness.  Water lilies gently opened their soft buds and some of the flowers looked shyly at us through the narrow slits of their green flower covering, while others had already opened wide and offered their honey-scented chalices to the fickle greedy ones, the small insects.  They reminded me of young girls who, hardly cognizant of their fate, smile at the boys.</p><P>The farther we came from the gloomy negro village the more densely the sap-green growth crowded together.  The dainty, slim silver heron dipped down into the midst of this jungle appearing to the admirer in a poetic mood as the only bearer of light in a tropical land.<ANCHOR ID="n1-3">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3">The silver heron is the only bird below the tropics that has an unspotted white coat.  His varied dipping into the water and flying high into the glowing atmosphere demands this summer dress so that, when wet through, it can be dried quicker by the strong reflex of the sun's rays and thus protect the bird from too great heat and cold.  The white feathers serve also, according to the statements of the natives, to entice the fish; probably by breaking up and spreading light, which the diver takes with him to the depths of the river.  In winter the bird clothes his more delicate parts with grey feathers in the form of a cloak.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>As the river banks rise the trees of the forest become more varied.  The different groups of <HI REND="italics">Myrtaceae</HI>
083.sgm:, begonias and <HI REND="italics">Melastomacae</HI>
083.sgm: change off with acacias, <HI REND="italics">Mimosas</HI>
083.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Lauraceae</HI>
083.sgm:.  Everywhere are varied forms of trunk, leaf, and blossom.  <HI REND="italics">Cappees</HI>
083.sgm:, begonias, and <HI REND="italics">Aristolochiaceae</HI>
083.sgm: entwine and unite it all to a wall which daylight can hardly penetrate.  One would like to enter that queer tangle but a thorny net bars the first step.  Everything that has roots grows wild over the ground, tree-trunks, branches, and tree-tops.  There is no end to the creepers and tangles, and thoughts whirl about as the vines weave in and out.  The enormous <HI REND="italics">Ceiba</HI>
083.sgm: seems to succumb to the weight of the agavas, orchids, <HI REND="italics">Anthurium</HI>
083.sgm: and giant ferns and is like a swelled-up grass-giant; but the sun makes countless colored blossoms on its branches and changes the giant into a Christmas tree.  Vanilla, and other vines, have spun a network over the trees along the banks, a thick green veil which covers them from crown to trunk and where in places they are pulled together they form the oddest forest creatures.  A great variety of blossoming twigs force their way towards the sunlight, balsam scents are wafted from the banks and the golden fruits of the lemon, of the guava and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:the papaya shimmer through the dark foliage of the smaller trees.  The tall bamboo covers the bank varying with other trees.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>And so it continues; it makes one wild!<LB>The air, the water and the earth<LB>Produce a thousand seeds<LB>In dryness, wetness, warm and cold!<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>The first day of our trip will soon be done and the forest has lost its monotonous quiet.  The peculiar voices of the woodpecker and <HI REND="italics">Blechschla&die;ger</HI>
083.sgm: can be heard; strident swarms of parrots from the <HI REND="italics">Aras</HI>
083.sgm: to the parokeet, followed by the <HI REND="italics">todo</HI>
083.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n1-4">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: wonder parrot, fly to their night quarters; soon the <HI REND="italics">Tukan</HI>
083.sgm: pecks his peppercorn supper, and the monkey groans his night call.  We glide around a bend; Gatun or Philippi, a small Indian village, with its poor but carefree inhabitants, lies before us.  A large fire burns in its center around which joyous young women dance the <HI REND="italics">Zamakunka</HI>
083.sgm:, a New Year's dance which requires not a little moral and muscular flexibility and originated truly in the jungle.  It consists of wrestling and writhing as though the participants would jump out of their skin and one can say of it:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB><HI REND="italics">Sans souci</HI>
083.sgm:, is what these joyous creatures are called<LB>They cannot stand any longer on their feet<LB>So now they stand on their heads.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-4">The <HI REND="italics">todo</HI>
083.sgm:<P>These Philippes seem not to have had their Paulus yet; and one would hardly dare to enter their group around the night fire, which burns high with bright tongues of flame as an excellent symbol of the flaming passion and pleasure lust of the half-wild dancers.</p><P>We, too, burned a night fire here on the banks, and prepared some of the travel rations which are probably adapted to satisfy a healthy appetite but do not deserve a description.  A refreshing bath in the Chagres substituted for the refreshment of dessert.  Hardly, however, had we begun to enjoy this pleasure when a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:weird looking alligator drove us back to shore.  The poor animal was just as surprised as we were, and swam fearfully away from our neighborhood.  After we had gone to bed in the narrow boat, the Prokrustes bed of the brown boatman, my neighbor dreamed about the tropical <HI REND="italics">Lagarto</HI>
083.sgm:, the alligator, and fleeing from it he jumped overboard into the water, thus freeing himself from both fear and dream.</p><P>Although sleeping out in the open is unpleasant in many respects, and only healthy constitutions can stand it, it has also a certain effect which dispels all disadvantages for travelers who avoid no adventurous situations.  Thoughts are busy with the strange surroundings and lose themselves in all kinds of combinations.  A sound which suddenly quavers through the stillness of the night makes the senses intensely alert, but it dissolves again into quietness and this creates new exhilarating sensations.  We tire from this frequent change of thought and stimulation of the senses and will, that rudder of our soul, steers us finally to Morpheus.  Sleep out of doors is the great temple sleep in which the Voice of God speaks to our soul.</p><P>We continued our voyage up the Chagres in the pale twilight of a late daybreak which, however, only gradually awakened tropical nature from its torpor.  Damp with dew, leaves and twigs hung slackly above the wooded shores, and the blossoms on vines and trees were still half closed.  No sound could be heard in wood or vale; but we had hardly rowed for a mile, when we heard the varied voices of feathered forest dwellers, whereby I became convinced that even the voice of the <HI REND="italics">ferrador</HI>
083.sgm:, the woodpecker, which often almost splits the ear drums during the day is much softer and more modulated in the morning.  Perhaps it is the dampness of the morning air which affects the glottis, perhaps it is the magic of the early hour, which even urges the tropical birds to more melodious outpourings of their hearts and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:entices them to unite in a chorus.  Finally the sun's rays shone towards the forest thickets, and everything that was bent, bowed, and hung down raised itself up for the day's life.  The forest awoke from its morning dream which had spread perspiration over its limbs in pearling dew, and the song of the forest died out in the distance, drowned out by the German songs with which we expressed our happiness.</p><P>The river for several miles below Gatun shows no marked current and tastes salty until it reaches the village, but about ten miles above that place swelled by the high tide of the Gulf stream, it becomes very difficult for the passage of boats, with a strong current, sandbanks, and snags of planters.<ANCHOR ID="n1-5">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: It is necessary for the boatman to push his canoe with his <HI REND="italics">Balanka</HI>
083.sgm:, or to pull it along himself in the water.  It is dangerous, however, only during the rainy season when there is much water, or if, as is often the case, one is too much in a hurry.  The distance from Chagres to Panama is ninety miles; my companions and I covered this in six days in order that we might all obtain the full enjoyment of the tropical trip at our leisure.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-5">Uprooted tree trunks, caught fast on the river bottom, raised crookedly and at times hidden under the surface of the water and only recognized in the current by a practiced eye.  When elevated and sawed off they are called <HI REND="italics">Sanayers</HI>
083.sgm:.  These are the most dangerous obstacles for the Mississippi steamers which are wrecked if they should bump head-on into them and are not equipped with a water-tight compartment separated from the rest of the ship and called a " <HI REND="italics">snaks-room</HI>
083.sgm:<P>The Riviera, the country along the river banks now stretched out in large grassy meadows dotted with small Indian settlements or with scattered wooded hills, at whose feet shady, inviting paths paralleled the river.  Much in evidence here are the many nests of a sort of wood ant, or <HI REND="italics">comaje</HI>
083.sgm:.  These nests are made of a bark substance pasted together in balls of honey-comb structure two or three feet in diameter, and are attached either to the base of a tree or to branches and shrubs.  Neat ant paths lead from one to the other which intersect in many places and thus resemble the network of roads in a civilized state.  The procession of ants moves on these paths, eager to satisfy their greed and lust for murder on the bush leaf-lice, tiny creatures of the "Lord of Creation".  The industry of these animals is untiring, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:strongly remind one of the marvellous gold-digging ants of the Ethiopians, in a country which today is flooded by gold seekers of all nations.  One could spend many hours observing the activity of these beasts of prey, and again one would always see evidence of new movement and new communication in the swarm which seems to be ruled by an animal mind of high order.  The second part of Vogt's <HI REND="italics">Thierstaaten</HI>
083.sgm: gives more detailed information about this.  Often they wrathfully pursue the one who steps carelessly on the banks of the Chagres and pitilessly sting him.  The sand wasp differs from the <HI REND="italics">comajes</HI>
083.sgm: only by its poisonous stinger, and in that at times it loses its wings, while the <HI REND="italics">comajes</HI>
083.sgm: retain theirs in old age.  Producing all kinds of metamorphoses and abnormalities is one of the most marvelous games of Nature, who below the Tropics is pleased to show her unlimited sway of all kinds of creatures, animals and plants.  It seems intentional under paradisiacal skies that not even during the day should we be able to guess at "ever ruling Nature's" effects, which so stimulate our thoughts.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Where deformities rule over abnormalities<LB>And illegality rules legally.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>To prove this one need only recall the <HI REND="italics">Gia-wasp</HI>
083.sgm:, who carries a plant twig on its body; the duckbill; the cashew nut, so well liked for its edible flower-base and the simultaneous appearance of blossoms and green and ripe fruits on one and the same twig.  The grape palm is destined to be a blade of grass, and bears fruit as heavy as a ton which when ripe produces an enormous conglomerate of nuts with an oily seed, and when immature produces a sour drink.  The liane vine creeps at first then grows onto a tree, and by means of its entwining power is able to choke the strongest trunks; its ends which hang down as twigs serve as ropes for the natives, or they cut them and quench their thirst with the watery, thin juices which flow out.  And thus the oddest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:formations of the tropics seem to have been created for usefulness to the native who from birth is dependent on his immediate surroundings.</p><P>Other remarkable phenomena in Chagres are the many iguanas which are disgusting to us because of their salamander-like appearance, but which are in high favor with the natives because of their tasty flesh.  If the iguana is roasted over the fire in the customary way, peeled and cooked with rice, the meat can hardly be excelled by that of a carefully fattened hen.  Its softshelled eggs, which contain much yolk, are equally tasty and nutritious whether boiled in salt water or strung on strings and dried in the sun.  It is not rare to see a native provided with rations for a whole day's trip of such a string of eggs around his neck, a piece of sugar cane in his hand and several ounces of boiled rice in banana leaves in his apron.  The iguana eggs are one of the favorite foods of the woods dwellers of the tropics, and they must never be missing in the pantry of the housewife if she would have her kitchen well stocked, and like you, pretty dwellers of the Antipodes, without egg yolks she cannot make that popular rice pudding and dessert.  She knows nothing, naturally, of gastronomical studies and her kitchen which, incidentally is the only room under the leafy roof, is as simple as her whole house.  Right at the entrance of it is the mortar made of a block of wood in which corn or <HI REND="italics">maniok</HI>
083.sgm: is crushed to flour, a work with which the father of the house would certainly earn his bread by the sweat of his brow, even if the sun did not beat down on his naked back.  This bread is nothing but an unseasoned dry mass, which has hardly any taste at all and which must often be ground up on the <HI REND="italics">metate</HI>
083.sgm:, the grinding stone, before one can venture one's teeth on it.  Nothing is more noticeable in the interior of the room than the altar with its colorful picture of the Virgin, surrounded by all kinds of household articles, before which the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:housewife comfortably prepares the meal.  Thick clouds of steam soon rise from the earthenware pot in which she has put, one after the other, water, rice, several <HI REND="italics">platanos</HI>
083.sgm: and the much praised iguana, pleasantly filling the nostrils of the hungry members of the family returning from the forest.  While they settle down on the <HI REND="italics">banquetas</HI>
083.sgm:, the wood blocks which serve as chairs and are placed on the <HI REND="italics">manzas da guangocha</HI>
083.sgm:, or seaweed mat which is spread in front of the hut, the magic pot is placed in their midst.  The banana leaf is lifted from it and the witches' brew and bony remains of the cooked iguana are distributed into the <HI REND="italics">calabasses.  "A su disposicion</HI>
083.sgm:!" is the friendly invitation extended the stranger by his naked hostess, reduced to a living mummy by ten years of a marriage very rich in children.  She feels hurt if he does not join or if he refuses the drink which she offers him from a cocoanut shell, after she has first drunk from it with her thick, withered lips.  His answer must be " <HI REND="italics">Me gusta mui bien</HI>
083.sgm:," as soon as he has forced down the first bite and I would be telling an untruth if I found fault with the dish.  The drinks made from a variety of juice fruits are, however, more pleasing.  Besides <HI REND="italics">chicha</HI>
083.sgm:, the well known tropical wine and <HI REND="italics">frangollo</HI>
083.sgm: punch, the extract prepared from the cream-like contents of the <HI REND="italics">cherymoya</HI>
083.sgm:, is the most remarkable drink.  It is fine refreshment for the thirsty, especially when it is proffered in a delicately carved <HI REND="italics">hiccora</HI>
083.sgm: from the hand of a virgin <HI REND="italics">muchacha</HI>
083.sgm:, whose life seems not to be measured by years for she will appear aged before her twentieth year like my able hostess.  In short, regardless of the limitations of their kitchen and the little knowledge of what is tasty, much is found on the table of the tropical native that tastes well to the foreigner; food and drink to which he can soon become accustomed without prejudice.  For instance, it happened to me that after being lost for a half day I joined an Indian and forever overcame all disgust of a dish of monkey meat he placed before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:me.  My being lost is worth mentioning because so many who crossed the Isthmus of Panama had a similar experience.</p><P>It happened in this manner.  In order to cut off a large bend of the Chagres, three miles below the town of Gorgona, my companions and I took to the shore and followed the shady path which, according to the information of the boatman, should lead us in one mile to a landing place, the goal of our river journey.  It was the hottest hour of midday, so we took off our upper garments, and naked and barefooted were only too glad to go into the cool forest.  The beautiful forest, alive with monkeys and parrots, afforded us such pleasant continuous entertainment that we did not realize we had already walked for an hour.  The path, which at first was like a <HI REND="italics">prado</HI>
083.sgm:, became stony and finally ended altogether, like the paths of the ants and their consorts at the top of a nearby tree, reminding one of the deceiving finish of philosophical systems.  At the foot of this tree there lay some gnawed off monkey bones near some still glowing embers, which almost made us think that a Robinson [Crusoe] episode or an adventure with <HI REND="italics">anthrophages</HI>
083.sgm: had happened here.  Annoyed by our own awkwardness and worried about losing too much time in returning we rushed, like Hans Klavenstaken, "straight through".  The pain in our hands and feet caused by the thorns of the cactus and aloe plants served only to spur us on so that we penetrated deeper and deeper into the forest where there was not a single ray of sunlight to help us find our way.  Frequently climbing over fallen and decaying tree trunks, we followed a narrow forest stream flowing between steep cliffs and rocks, which should have led us to the Chagres.  From time to time pieces of wood were shaken down from the branches as we laboriously made our way through the thickets.  Now and then a huge eagle, fearful and curious, dipped down and suddenly the jaws of a monstrous snake gaped at us from the bushes.  Prepared for the worst, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:we threw stones at the horror and it proved to be a vine which our excited fantasy had made into a boa constrictor.  Not until late in the evening did we finally leave the forest.  Arriving at a meadow we surmised the nearness of the river from the sandy bed of the stream and the timid, sensitive mimosas ( <HI REND="italics">Mimosa pudica and M. sensitiva</HI>
083.sgm: ) which bowed shyly at our footsteps.  We finally reached the river below the place where we had stepped on land before getting lost.  The forest stream instead of helping our progress had led us back in a circle.  Exhausted, we met an Indian whose hospitality we enjoyed.  We stayed the night in his hut and the next morning he accompanied us to Gorgona.</p><P>The most dangerous part of getting lost like this is the frightening and adventurous things one imagines, especially towards nightfall.  Steps are doubly hastened and with the same energy a disregard for all obstacles is increased.  Physical injury is regarded less and less and the results of the exertion are felt only after the return of composure.  We certainly realized this on our rest day in Gorgona; but a bath in the Chagres helped us and a sweet sleep in the shade of a banana field took away the last trace of our fatigue.  Gorgona was full of California emigrants; a truly Gorgonian confusion existed in which the Gorgonians of the village played the leading role in doing everything in their power to make the stay of the travelers as pleasant as possible.  " <HI REND="italics">Las Gente de razon</HI>
083.sgm: "<ANCHOR ID="n1-6">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: did not prove to be "dilettanti" but hurried away for the ocean steamer awaiting them in Panama.  Soon I too was riding along with a large group on my way to the Pacific Ocean.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-6">The sensible people, as the whites or Europeans are called by the Castillian natives, also dilettanti, friends of pleasure and art.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>Although the trip over the mountains between Gorgona and Panama may be said to be difficult, it offers so many novel and interesting sights that one is completely repaid for the exertion expended.  The scenery changes constantly from wooded heights <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:to valleys with springs and brooks; soon we come to a shady passage through which our jolly crowd passes; then again, narrow rocky passes warn us to be careful.  The naked burden bearers lead the way disturbing the quiet of the forest by their peculiar groaning which is caused by the heat and their burdens.  They carry the boxes and goods of the travelers on light hurdles made of bamboo and reed which rest on their neck and tower high above their head, and as they are able to balance the weight skilfully up hill and down dale they hurry on so as soon to be relieved of their burden.  They earn from six to twelve dollars, a pay which makes the native who formerly earned only <HI REND="italics">reales</HI>
083.sgm:, believe that his land is an Eldorado in which he would like to earn as much daily.  This, however, is not possible as to carry so much would kill him.</p><P>The colorful emigrant band follows behind these leaders.  The men wear red woolen shirts and broad straw hats and carry weapons and saddles at their sides.  The women wear bloomers which prove their practical worth nowhere better than here.<ANCHOR ID="n1-7">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-7">They seem to be most useful however, to those sensitive American women who formerly would not walk through a potato field because they had heard that potatoes have eyes!  Bloomers have been warmly defended and favorably received by a large number of American women.  They believed bloomers to be not less decent than the customary evening dress, because what was too short on the lower extremities or "muscles" ( <HI REND="italics">vulgo</HI>
083.sgm:<P>Now this crowd of riders rejoices with shrieks and cries!  The mules walk briskly with their lady riders swaying, the men laugh and tell jokes, and the <HI REND="italics">muleros</HI>
083.sgm: strike the animals with the flat blade of their <HI REND="italics">machettas</HI>
083.sgm:, reminding the American of his "Time is money".  Soon the procession has reached the <HI REND="italics">Half-way-House</HI>
083.sgm: and rested there.  Refreshment is taken and we move on.  Another valley and another mountain are crossed and then we reach a height corresponding to that of Sierra de Quarequa from where Balboa first saw the South Sea and with raised hands thanked the heavens for his discovery from which his rival, Pedrarias, profited.  Glittering like silver the Pacific Ocean lies before the delighted wanderer; but in vain he looks for the Caribbean Sea from this high wall which separates the two great oceans.  We stay here only for a short while, the <HI REND="italics">muleros</HI>
083.sgm: call <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:"<HI REND="italics">Adelante</HI>
083.sgm:!" and applying their <HI REND="italics">machettas</HI>
083.sgm: again to the hides of the pack animals, the caravan moves on down the mountain towards the city of Panama.</p><P>The plain is reached; above it rise the towers of the cathedrals of the city in which Pizarro received the Host before he brought to the Incas the decline and destruction of their empire.  First, there is a suburb of half-ruined houses, witness of a former prosperity, in which the poorer classes have now settled.  In the center of this is a stone, pyramid-shaped monument from the time of Pedraria Davila, governor of Castillo del Oro.  A road toll which is charged here would make an unknowing person believe that it is the memorial of a road-gang overseer.  We have soon passed through the suburb to an empty square covered with weeds and growth and passing through a ruined arch we arrive on the uneven pavement of the old city.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Gray walls, musty halls<LB>Deserted and gloomy to view<LB>Into pieces it all falls<LB>Will the future build it anew?<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>The stranger must ask himself this when he makes a tour of the streets of the "Fish rich," of the City of Panama.  Everywhere he sees piles of rubbish and wreckage, sad monuments of the time when Panama also succumbed to her efforts for independence.  A ray of revival and of new creation shines in the heart of the city.  On Main Street, which has already lost its original Spanish name, the damp, cellar-like ground-floor rooms have been made over into modern shops and an active pursuit of earning money shows that a new destiny is in store for the old city.  That great nation which seems destined to elevate lands and nations from their decay and lethargy has also achieved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:astonishing results here in a short time.  The citizens of the United States have been able to make a new stopping place in Panama for the world of commerce and trade and have made a way for making easier commerce and trade with the Pacific Ocean.</p><P>Since the time of the Revolution Panama has sunk more and more into oblivion and it is characteristic that as far back as the present generation can remember no new house has been built.  In the first year of the California migration the city consisted of barely 7000 inhabitants, 800 houses and five churches of which only four were open.  In 1850 there was already a population increase of several thousands.  The Creoles who had retired to Bogota and the blacks and colored folk who scattered through the country, returned gradually to the coast.  The empty dwellings were soon crowded by people of all colors and characteristics, so that it became more and more difficult for strangers to find shelter.  Ships from all parts of the world came into the harbor.  Surveyor's markers for the cutting of the railway through the isthmus were raised in the jungle and in two short years the shrill whistle of the locomotive was heard where only the whistling of the monkeys had been.  " <HI REND="italics">Quien no cae, no se levanta</HI>
083.sgm: " (Who does not fall does not rise).  The city of Panama at the terminal of the railroad from Novy Bay will flourish again like her old demolished predecessor, only it is not the Castillian but the Yankee who assures her progress.</p><P>I stayed in Panama for two months and when I left I was still not satiated.  The enjoyment of the varied charms in the forest and on the forever new Savanna and the continual change of population in the stream of migration made the place a greater The&acute;a&circ;tre des Varie&acute;te&acute;s.  Although it is very difficult to discover the true character of an American in his native land, it is much easier in a strange country where the sun and shadow of his nature break through his composure and are more easily <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:discernible.  Panama brought me new knowledge of this nature.</p><P>There are picturesque ruins of churches and monasteries in this city which is built on a rocky dam projecting into the ocean.  Thick agava covered walls with great cracks, in which the loafing lizard and poisonous <HI REND="italics">geko</HI>
083.sgm: breed, surrounded one place where a ruined altar stands and a pair of bells, damaged by the falling of the tower, are hung on decaying beams showing to what purpose the place served formerly.  Neglected palms are rooted in the rubbish and spread their branches towards the sunlight through the cracks in the wall; vines creep on the walls and across the place, here and there forming a loop in which the observer sits swinging, and quietly surrenders himself to his astonishment and dreams.</p><P>The eye marks a thick cactus hedge growing above a portal in which stands a vase covered with vines reminiscent of the Greek myth of the Acanthus leaves and the basket, while a haggard man comes through the portal towards the bells of "Santa Maria."  The people of the neighborhood can hear the muffled sound of the bells of the ruin which soon harmonizes with the bells of the city.  The striker of the bell stops, raises his hat, prays an "Ave Maria," bows before the "Sacred One" and, quietly as he came, goes away.</p><P>A similar ruin serves as Municipal Theater; wild nature couples herself here with raw art.  The room has no ceiling, chairs are scattered about and the stage is decorated at the top with twigs and vines.  Creoles, Americans, colored people and negroes <HI REND="italics">e tutti quanti</HI>
083.sgm: spend their idle evenings staring here.  Usually they amuse themselves with those Spanish folk plays in which every scene is distinguished by a certain degree of triviality.  Intriguers, robbers, drunkards or <HI REND="italics">Fanfarones</HI>
083.sgm: are the heroes of the plays, or farces are presented in which the most foolish smutty jokes of Signor Pantalone, Arlechino, Tartaglia etc. are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:improvised.  We are horrified when we think of the remark made by the philosopher who said "to learn about a people it is only necessary to observe their dramas".  We laugh and applaud and when the jubilation has reached its highest point the American does not hesitate any longer to express his irony at it all.  It commences to rain and the play is over.</p><P>Next to the theatre is the garrison and the prison.  A number of colored people serve both as soldiers and policemen.  The drollness of the West Indian soldiery is also found here; while the barefooted, half-naked privates are content with either straw hat or policeman's cap, sword or <HI REND="italics">machetta</HI>
083.sgm:, gun or spear, their superiors are distinguished by many colored strange decorations; silver cords, tombak buttons and gold epaulettes being much in evidence also.  The soldiers are used once a month to escort the West Indian mail and the great silver and gold transport from Peru across the isthmus and once in a while are also sent out to capture bandits.  Then the company, weighed down by beds, cooking utensils and all kinds of weapons, resembles a band of Indians who are getting ready to move their wigwams.</p><P>The Americans have often clashed with this military.  Once they even stormed the garrison and got control of all the weapons.  As there was no general interest in the revolt they contented themselves with showing the government how little they respected it.  I still remember how a chief of one of the squads vainly urged his frightened soldiers to attack a group of Americans and how the whole soldiery then made a <HI REND="italics">tabula rasa</HI>
083.sgm: under a hail of stones.  All Panama was in the grip of a panic of fear at that time and the creoles were ready to leave the city.  When the governor heard this bad news he issued a proclamation in which he gave friendly warning to the Americans to keep the peace, and declared himself prepared to do everything possible for the upholding of their rights.  By this, however, he only showed his own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:futility and the American Consul was still the most important person in Panama.</p><P>The life of the market place is varied and different; it is located in the southeastern part of the city on the shores of the bay.  Early in the morning many pirogues loaded with all kinds of forest and field fruits arrive.  The tide falls and the market, flooded with people and products, extends far out into the sea.  Boatmen with their brown apprentices attempt to dispose of the most varied and different smelling goods in pots and kettles, moving up and down the long aisle of crouching market women who offer for sale in <HI REND="italics">calebasses</HI>
083.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">batras</HI>
083.sgm: the delicate fruits of the <HI REND="italics">cherymoya</HI>
083.sgm:, guava, tuna, pomegranate and sapodilla, together with other wares.  The people buy and sell, then with the return of high tide the market is at its ebb.  Two merchants still stand near a pile of oranges, however, who cannot agree on a price.  Their animated gestures show the great difference in their opinions.  Then they finally divide the <HI REND="italics">medio</HI>
083.sgm: about which they quarreled for almost a half an hour, part contentedly; one in his pirogue goes across the bay, the other to the shopkeeper in the city and soon thereafter to the gambling table, where he will lose the whole sum of his profits on one card of Monte.</p><P>Gambling halls spring up as a matter of course wherever returning Californians stay for any length of time.  The rooms of the one to which the merchant went were formerly part of a nunnery and are always crowded now with people about whom the pious sisters and priests spoke their anathema.  The gambling halls of Panama are on Main Street which therefore is not dedicated any more to church processions, the main reason being that the high clergy does not wish to unfold its magnificence in a street almost entirely populated by Americans.  Such church processions occur frequently in Panama.  Palm Sunday is the most exalted occasion and worthy of mention.  An hour before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:sunset the people gather in the Church of Mary in the suburbs.  After several of the customary ceremonies have been performed in the interior of the church a long procession moves towards the city.  Striding at the head of this in black robes are the church laity.  In their midst is a young female donkey, especially trained, bearing on her back a somewhat shoddy papier-ma&circ;che&acute; crucifix with Christ clothed in silk and decorated richly with gold and pearls.  She is followed by the ecclesiastics in full vestment, surrounded by a group of sacristans; then come white-robed virgins, youths; and finally the entire population of the city, all bearing palm, aloe, and myrtle twigs and reciting the " <HI REND="italics">ora pro nobis</HI>
083.sgm: ".  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>On Palm Sunday in the Vatican<LB>they use genuine palms<LB>The cardinals all bow down<LB>And sing genuine psalms.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>The gates are closed once a year on this evening.  On and near them stand men, women and children so as to be the first to shout joyously to the approaching crucifix.  This scene of the long procession at whose sides the inquisitive Americans play the role of the Pharisees, lacks nothing to give a true presentation of the gospels Matthew 21.  It makes one think that here Dubufe painted from life his picture of "The entry of Jerusalem."  The gates are opened after a pause and the laity has told the purpose of entry.  As soon as the donkey enters there is general rejoicing.  Twigs and flowers are thrown in her path from all sides; women spread their dresses and young girls go so far in their joy as to disrobe entirely to permit the donkey to step on their calico coverings.  The cry "Jesus el Nazereno-Hosanna!" resounds through the whole city while the procession moves on to the convent of the Sisters of Mercy and fragrant perfumes are poured on it from the balconies of the houses so that for once in Panama, on Palm Sunday, one can breathe pleasantly.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>From all this it can be seen how diligently and with what cordiality the <HI REND="italics">Curas</HI>
083.sgm:, the clergy, attempt to gratify the national urge of the Castillian people.  A look into the crumbling cathedral of Panama, covered from base to towers by dense growths, but filled with an abundance of riches; its silver altar, silver candelabra, and gold <HI REND="italics">vasa sacra</HI>
083.sgm:, shows what impresses the people from a religious standpoint.  The natives crawl on their knees around this church treasure, which is said to be only a small part of what the clergy saved from the revolution, while the other less richly furnished churches are usually empty.  Even at the funeral processions this mania for ostentation and decoration is evident, more or less limited, however, by the means of the dead person.  Single persons are borne to the grave in an open coffin.  A virgin is dressed in her best as if for her wedding, with a wreath on her forehead, flowers on her breast and her pale cheeks are even rouged.  So, with pompous escorts the corpse, like a flourishing creature, arrives at an <HI REND="italics">estafo</HI>
083.sgm: in a niche of the cemetery wall.</p><P>Such funeral ceremonies seem less tragic; how different it is in the case of a foreigner who is buried without pomp or decoration, even without ordinary decency.  The corpse of a foreigner is not permitted burial in the <HI REND="italics">patio</HI>
083.sgm: of the city.  The bodies of foreigners, who often succumb quickly to the epidemic diseases, are put hardly a foot deep under the hot earth, at times without a coffin, in a place covered with jungle growths.  The grim hatred of the <HI REND="italics">Curas</HI>
083.sgm: against everyone belonging to a different church and the crass superstition of the people have designated this barren forest of graves as the place of sinners and heretics.  There dark ghosts of these unpardoned unfortunates still wander years after the decay of all earthly remains as the church has arranged for no priestly intercession for them.  Such a ghost sprang on my breast once when I lifted a coffin lid to look at its mummified contents.  After my first surprise I convinced myself, however, that it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:a small sand-rabbit, friend of death.  San Juan de Dios, the grave digger, who had just arrived with a new corpse maintained, however, that it was the restless soul of a dead person.  Another time when I happened to meet him in the forest of the dead and drew his attention to a grave from which extended the bloody mangled hand of a corpse buried the day before, he maintained that the dead person's burden of sin was so great that he probably found it necessary to wave for aid to poor Lazarus in heaven.  I suspected strongly, however, that the unfortunate one must have been buried while unconscious and, struggling against death after burial, had pushed his hand up through the earth!  Such suspicions are really justified when one has seen so often for himself with what superficiality and indifference the emigrant who has fallen ill with violent Panama fever is treated by both the doctor and his family or nurses.  This illness, which begins usually with dysentery, robs the patient of all strength and he sinks into a coma, accompanied by frightful fainting spells which are easily mistaken for death by ignorant people.  If the weakened patient lies there with corpse-like stillness it is easily possible that the grave digger is called instead of the doctor as there is fear of decay infection which is always close at hand in a tropical country, and the traveling companion, if there is one, hurries away from the place which threatens him with the same fate.  If the body is not cold and stiff enough for the grave digger he understands his expensive business as well as did the <HI REND="italics">matadores</HI>
083.sgm: theirs, who, in the role of Sisters of Mercy, made death easier for their patients by giving them a few sturdy nudges with their elbow.</p><P>A great American evil in such sickness is the exaggerated and immediate consumption of mercury and quinine.  The American never takes a trip without a suitable supply of popular patent medicine in which quicksilver and poisonous alkaloide play the main role.  Every American is such a living dispensary, and has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:a box crammed with "drugs and medicine".  If he feels "feverish" or not quite fit he immediately swallows enormous doses of medicines and so decides whether it will be life or death.  In the hot regions large doses of radical curatives are sometimes necessary but one should have more than a little medical knowledge to observe the rapid course of the illness or to check it.  Every untrained person who acts officiously in such illness is certainly a murderous meddler with human life.</p><P>If, while making a sightseeing tour of Panama, you cross the <HI REND="italics">patio</HI>
083.sgm: and go farther, you come to a narrow path which leads to a spring in a wall from which all Panama obtains its water.  This water has caused the death of many an un-acclimated foreigner.  Pregnant with vegetable stuffs and filth, it is often drunk in the heat and then causes diarrhea or fever.  It is customary, however, to let this water go stale before using it.  Poor Indians, called <HI REND="italics">Aguaderos</HI>
083.sgm:, bring it into the city in large stone crocks, <HI REND="italics">cachocols</HI>
083.sgm:, and the buyer pours it into smaller antique-shaped clay vessels in which he allows it to go stale, while at the same time the evaporating process cools it off.  On all the balconies of the city, increasing the exotic appearance of the houses, stand long rows or groups of these water vessels in the process of making the cool drink which seems the most delicious refreshment beneath the hot heavens.  The Panamanians cool their wine in a similar way by drawing a small dampened net cover over each bottle and putting it out in the night air.</p><P>The mountain of Ancon towers above the only spring of Panama and offers a pleasant place of sojourn with its refreshing, constant land and sea breezes and an extensive view of the gulf dotted with islands.  At the foot of this mountain are several deserted sugar plantations and the ruins of demolished refineries.  The great size of a copper kettle taken from a hearth there still bears witness to the once enormous volume of this former industry.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>A rum distillery is yet in operation.  Sugar is mostly brought here as <HI REND="italics">peloncillo</HI>
083.sgm: from the interior of the country and is sold cheaply.  It is dissolved, poured into earthenware crocks and put in a cool place to ferment.  This process begins after twenty-four hours, but is purposely delayed by the evaporation of the matter in the porous vessels.  The fermentation is thus more penetrating and more complete and seems to increase the aroma and the butyric acid-ether taste.  A distillery apparatus in which neither the principle of wood saving or that of hastened distillation is observed produces daily a few gallons of fine-tasting rum, which by reason of its excellence is quickly disposed of.  The ingredients of anisette are grown here and it is produced in the same quantity and quality.  It would be well to enlarge this business and to organize it better.</p><P>This is the only trace of industry in Panama and the only place where one sees uninterrupted work.  The colored people are more lazy than diligent.  Their one ambition is to earn a few <HI REND="italics">pesos</HI>
083.sgm: as quickly as possible and then to gradually spend them at leisure.  These colored people carry on commerce in the city with calico goods, reed mats, fruit and all kinds of tinsel wares.  At times Nuremberg products are sold in the narrow shop, the <HI REND="italics">pulperia</HI>
083.sgm:, in which a brown Panamanian woman also prepares and sells native drinks and sweet pastry, the popular <HI REND="italics">Cocadillo de Coco</HI>
083.sgm:.  She earns many a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
083.sgm: from the secret business of hawking the fine-tasting <HI REND="italics">Cigarillos de Panama</HI>
083.sgm:.  These are made of cigar butts gathered up on the streets, chopped up and turned on a machine, which perhaps because of their maceration equal the best Havanas.  The pursuit of pleasure and adventure is the colored person's main object in life.  He directs most of his attention to his clothing.  White trousers, a dazzling white <HI REND="italics">Jaceti</HI>
083.sgm:, a vest of the most beautiful primrose yellow, a sash of poppy red, vari-colored light leather slippers and an elegant sombrero make him such a dandy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:that no <HI REND="italics">Donna</HI>
083.sgm: can refuse a "date" with him.  This finery makes him feel happier than the aristocratic Creole living the life of a retired business man.  Even the naked Indian feels the pride of a Roman or a Hidalgo, when he possesses a calico shirt and wears his hat tipped over one eye.  After he has eaten his meal, which either forest or two hours of paid labor produced for him, he is free to stroll at will in this city.  If the situation is too "damned tedious" he lies down in a hammock and smokes a goodly number of <HI REND="italics">cigarillos</HI>
083.sgm:.</p><P>The Creoles are the heirs to rich estates and restrict their activity to commerce of gold, precious stones and pearls.  They are hesitant about giving any appearance of working.  " <HI REND="italics">Todo Blanco es Caballero</HI>
083.sgm:,"<ANCHOR ID="n1-8">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: is the watchword and Caballeros do not work, for work is a sign of poverty and that is a disgrace.  Behind the cool walls they wait half-dressed for the evening, quenching their thirst diligently.  They hardly understand the spirit of enterprise in the California travelers.  They live well here, although the kitchen seems a miserable place, with its low stone-flanked hearth in which glows a coal fire surrounded by earthenware pots and bowls.  A colored charwoman, who learned her culinary art in a <HI REND="italics">Cura</HI>
083.sgm: kitchen a paid for it with the most beautiful years of her youth, blows dense clouds of smoke from her <HI REND="italics">cigarillo</HI>
083.sgm: while she plays the ro&circ;le of an excellent <HI REND="italics">Cura</HI>
083.sgm: cook.  With a piece of wood she energetically stirs the mixture in the earthenware pots and from time to time adds new ingredients, or after tasting, takes some away.  The many courses selected for the evening meal, which from eggs to fruit resembles an old Roman feast, taste excellent, and the Panamanian like the Roman consumes them in quantity especially if his favorite dish of turkey is not lacking, without which it seems hardly possible to digest a meal in all Spanish-America.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-8">"Every white man is a knight."</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The main occupation of the Creole woman is to go to church.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Early in the morning she goes to Mass, accompanied by a young <HI REND="italics">cholo</HI>
083.sgm: who carries her footstool and carpet.  During the day she lies in her hammock, the cradle of Hilaris, enjoying the life rich in "Love and idleness" for which she has been destined from birth.  In the evening she promenades with one of her family on the Bataria, the harbor terrace of the city where she enjoys the fresh sea air and the glorious view at sunset.</p><P>The Bataria [Bateria] takes the place of a <HI REND="italics">Paseo</HI>
083.sgm:.  The sea rages at the foot of its high wall; frequent earthquakes have made in it many great cracks and crevices which give it a rather threatening appearance.  Bombs and piles of cannon balls lie around everywhere and an old garrison with a spacious deserted courtyard still commemorates a sad event.  This is the pleasure and recreation ground of the Panamanians.  The muzzles of several large cannon, on their weathered gun carriages, project over the parapet of the Bataria out towards the sea.  These pieces are not only valuable for their quality but have also historical worth, and have been the objects of British envy for a long time.  Large sums have already been offered for their purchase but the government shows no desire to dispose of them.  In the meantime Brother John's [Uncle Sam's] sons scratch or file their names on them and will continue to do so until they are completely Americanized and finally come under their starry banner.</p><P>Ships anchor two or three miles from the Bataria; the twelve foot ebb and many rocky banks in the harbor do not permit them to come closer.<ANCHOR ID="n1-9">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: Boats and pirogues travel continually between it and the landing place where natives are at work, in the water up to their arm pits, carrying goods and passengers to shore, running the risk while doing so of becoming a tidbit for the sharks, as has sometimes happened.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-9">The first Spanish ships were able to anchor close to the walls of the city and the water level of the sea extended far beyond its edge.  It seems, and more recent observations confirm this, that a tongue of land has been formed in the bay between the city and the islands, and the rocks are gradually rising and being covered with layers of coral to which are added the various crustaceans which die at low tide.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>Another of the evening recreations of the Panamanian is riding towards the savanna.  Hardly has the sun disappeared <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:behind the islands when the <HI REND="italics">Caballeros</HI>
083.sgm: are seen everywhere, dressed in the colorful linen mantles, <HI REND="italics">Mangas</HI>
083.sgm:, on lively ponies loping<ANCHOR ID="n1-10">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: through the steets; nothing seems able to hinder their course except the sound of the people praying the Ave Maria coming to them through the open portals of the church.  Doffing their hats the <HI REND="italics">Caballeros</HI>
083.sgm: join in the prayer and then rush away across the peak of the mountain of Ancon, where in the blue evening air they appear for a moment like giants, and then vanish.  The stranger sees it and he too feels a strong desire to join them.  Then he sees a crowd of people moving towards the <HI REND="italics">rempart</HI>
083.sgm: [rampart] of the city.  The arena is located there in which cock fights are staged.  Everyone goes to the arena.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-10">The popular loping pace has become hereditary among the horses of Spanish-America.  It is taught to the horses by binding a wooden roller just behind their forefeet and then forcing them to trot.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>Two fighting cocks are chosen for the battle.  Their owners take sharp and narrow scythe-shaped blades, three inches long, from leather cases.  These are bound to the legs of the fighting cocks below the spurs and a call is made for bets which is the real purpose of a cock fight.  " <HI REND="italics">Quien quiece</HI>
083.sgm: [quiere] <HI REND="italics">dos, seis, dies, pesos</HI>
083.sgm:!" is heard on all sides and he who does not wish to bet is considered cowardly.  All is quiet; the cocks are held opposite each other; they bristle with mutual hate and anger and strive to be let loose to fight for victory or death.  Several rushes are made, whereby each vainly attempts to thrust his sharp spur weapon into the breast of the other.  Then the owners pluck a few feathers which incites new battle lust in them.  Finally one gets a bloody head but his owner does not find the wound dangerous; he licks away the blood with his tongue and sets the fighter free again.</p><P>It frequently takes an hour before one of the cocks succumbs.  Usually they tire themselves out so that they fall down gasping and wheezing.  Then the cocks are worth nothing, absolutely nothing--not the least thing-- <HI REND="italics">nadita</HI>
083.sgm:.  A new pair makes those betting more impatient or excited.  The crowd is very restless and rarely agrees with the decision.  A skilful cock is filled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:with the lust to battle and makes use of every opening to attack his opponent and like a flash pierces his heart or veins.</p><P>Such cock fights are customary on Sundays in Panama and are then extremely well patronized.  The cocks are well cared for and are usually tied to the entrance of the house where they appear as a symbol of bravery and anticipated victory.  A paladin who is of importance in the eyes of the Panamanians enjoys being with cocks, horses, and wild steers and usually lives in the house where such a cock stands.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Corren el Toren</HI>
083.sgm: is as familiar and popular an Isthmian game for the inhabitants of Panama as a bull fight, and as pleasurable.  A wild steer rushes bellowing through the streets of the city attacking every one he meets with his horns.  A crowd of young people pursue him, attempting to catch him or throw him.  Whoever is able to do this single-handed receives a distinction at the <HI REND="italics">Vandango</HI>
083.sgm: that evening.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>When the Faun extends his paw<LB>The belle cannot with easewithdraw.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>The most beautiful women and girls in the city take part in such balls.  Here, over and over again, an opportunity is afforded to realize that the women of Panama possess everything that makes the female of the tropics charming.  The Panamanians all claim to be descendants of the last Ynca daughters, and are really so, at least in regard to their beauty and incomparable gentleness which makes the foreigner admire them.  They are always thinking about and imitating Rava Ruska and often they include the unforgettable daughter of the last Ynca king in their prayer when they kneel before the brown Madonna or the Ynca picture of San Bastian in front of the church.</p><P>The Panamanian woman increases the charms of her physical beauty by the thick folds of her hip skirt, the <HI REND="italics">enagua</HI>
083.sgm:, light <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<HI REND="italics">manto</HI>
083.sgm:, and the ever present Panama hat.  The Panama hat and the heavy gold Panama chain are the only objects manufactured in the country for which one must praise the skill of the colored people.  The former is indestructible, withstanding years of sun and rain, and surely worth the high price at which it is sold, even in this country.  A Panama hat should be of Creole tint, waterproof and flexible; it should be possible to fold it to any size and it must be able to stand the most horrible abuse without showing any signs of wear.  Every year it should be bleached with lime and here it finally serves as decoration for an Indian, who paints it with white lead or covers it with red or brimstone colored oil-cloth.  The horse reins plaited of the same fibre ( <HI REND="italics">palo de laghetto</HI>
083.sgm: ) and the handkerchiefs woven of <HI REND="italics">pita</HI>
083.sgm:, which are equally as fine as the Chinese ones made of Filkgrass, are just as durable.  The finest Panama hats are those made in Panama itself, not those made in Guayaquill.  The work of such a hat takes much time and patience; therefore it is a fitting occupation for the hands of the prisoners who busy themselves with this for the duration of their sentence.  Thus the sweat of the prisoners sticks often to the most valuable article of clothing of the Panamanians but the Panama hat is not disgraced by this any more than it would be if it were the needlework over which the Panamanian woman at times "transpires".  This transpiration which occurs even during idleness is a sign of health and therefore honorable.  Whoever does not sweat in the tropics is close to illness.  That is why the tropic dweller consumes so many of the spices which stimulate the skin secretions.  An organism which adapts itself readily to all the demands of warmth will soon flourish here and will swell up rich in strength and juice like a fruit ripening in the sun's blaze.  Easy digestion and great appetite are the results.  Healthy men of the northern countries who lacked corpulence will be bothered by it here.  The lazier the soul the more active the body.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:The spirit is depressed but the sleepless night with which the thinker of the north is often tortured is unknown here.  Here on the isthmus one finds people of very great age.  I knew a Castillian matron who was 121 years old.  She lived with her grandchildren between the <HI REND="italics">Half-way-House</HI>
083.sgm: and Panama, was still vigorous and with her <HI REND="italics">cigarillo</HI>
083.sgm: in her mouth, still swung in her hammock as comfortably and with as much pleasure as she had a hundred years before.  Her memory was still vivid and she had a living source of her country's history from which additional humorous ideas purled like the sweat which stood on her lips.</p><P>Under the tropical heavens everyone must live the days of his life in the sweat of his brow.  The thought that life is passed here in a paradise in the midst of the greatest glory and beauty of generous nature is embittered by the drop of sweat which is always present.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Thinking of places you have left<LB>Of Paradise you feel bereft.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>During the last days of my stay in Panama there was a great change in the weather.  The west wind blew over the city; the barometer fell several degrees; the swarms of poisonous <HI REND="italics">tabanos</HI>
083.sgm: flies disappeared from house and street; the weather indicator <HI REND="italics">alacran</HI>
083.sgm: (scorpion) withdrew into his hiding place; the crickets made their nests near the city foretelling by this the time when their scissor-sharpening sound would be dampened; and finally the rain fell in streams.  On the glowing savanna the earth crevices closed up tight giving forth a peculiar "greening" or earth-smell and the earth disappeared quickly under a green-grass carpet on which the emaciated cattle soon recuperated while the diligent <HI REND="italics">savannaro</HI>
083.sgm: cut the tall guiana grass and sold it in the city.</p><P>The return of the rainy period brought with it again the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:feared epidemic into the walls of Panama; everyone who could get away fled and filled the ships in the harbor of the city.  These ships called also to me with their gleaming sails and so I left the glorious green of the tropical country to embark on the celestial blue of the sea.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>On to California</p><P>THE <HI REND="italics">Sarah Elisa</HI>
083.sgm: on which I departed from the Bay of Panama was a large American three-master.  The ship had once made the trip around Cape Horn to California and had the reputation of being a good sailer.  The opportunity to travel was enticing at such a time when the sudden pressure of emigration from Panama made it almost impossible to find another ship.</p><P>My interest in this sailing ship was increased even more by the praise accorded her equipment.  She belonged to a company of foreigners established in Panama who neglected no opportunity to present the advantages of their ship before the public, and made use of every speculative activity of ship brokerage to enlarge the passenger list.  The ship had been newly painted, repaired and thoroughly cleaned.  Fresh meat, fragrant tropical fruits and everything for which a sea traveler is most hungry during the first days of his voyage were displayed for several days on the quarter-deck.  This resembled a bit of tropical Utopia around which over 200 passengers jostled, only to learn later how unsound were their glorious visions and hopes.</p><P>Ready to sail, the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Elisa</HI>
083.sgm: lay in the Pearl Archipelago, in the Bay of Tabago, an island six miles distant from Panama.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:There was no wind and the time was used to bring several more kegs of water on board.  The passengers were given an opportunity to land for several hours.  They went back and forth in the pirogues of the island dwellers.  I was glad to return to the charming island village which I had visited once before from Panama.</p><P>Tabago is noted for its continuous fresh vegetation.  The environs of Panama are less pleasing to the eye because of the scarcity of water but everything here is decorated by most glorious tropical growth.  The scattered stone buildings of the village are set in shady bowers and form a pleasant colony.  The stream which rushes through it has wild beauty and one is delighted to obtain a drink of fresh spring water at the base of a damp stone.  But the delicious drink is spoiled.  The brown women of Tabago stand around everywhere in the stream bed, almost as far as the mountains, using the soft spring water for their washing.  Soap foam on the surface and everything unrecognizable beneath it is mixed with the foam of the water dashing against the rocks.  Farther up in the stream stand the water nymphs of the village enjoying the cool wetness on their whole body; the naked mountain dwellers of the island also scramble to stand under the waterfall which drops from a gorge.  One takes one's drink at the foot of the mountain stream, however, knowing that on the ship the same liquid will be imbibed, only then it will be even still dirtier.</p><P>The pineapples which are raised in great quantity in Tabago and are sold cheaply there have a much better taste.  To stand in the midst of a bunch of pineapples makes one think of the strawberry beds at home and a bite of the delicious fruit tastes like strawberries--no, it tastes like all nature's delicacies combined in one of her products.  Branches heavy with mangos hang down from trees whose broad crowns shade the small habitations of their owner, who patiently waits for the fruit to ripen so that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:can ferment it and sell it at market.  The stranger's mouth waters at sight of the fleshy plum-like fruit; he reaches for a branch and breaks it with his hand.  This brings forth the careful housewife, who stands in the doorway, scolding and cursing the rascal who has spoiled the development of unripe fruit.  <HI REND="italics">Apaga Satanas</HI>
083.sgm:!</p><P>On the other side of the island great piles of coal lie on the sea shore.  They belong to the California steamship company which ships them from eastern America as ballast on sailing ships, and near them is a smithy and cooper establishment.  It makes an odd impression to see American industry contrasted here with the laziness and idleness of the island dwellers.  The heavy sledge hammer swings over the glowing iron and falls upon it, spreading scintillating sparks over the foliage of a widebranched <HI REND="italics">Sapucaja</HI>
083.sgm:.  It is thrilling to watch the almost untiring activity of human energy after being accustomed to see examples only of <HI REND="italics">Dulce hacer nada</HI>
083.sgm:.  The working man appears most worthy here where man seems to have been destined to enjoy the gifts of nature in idleness.</p><P>When I returned to the seashore at Tabago the sailors had finished taking on water and had returned on board the vessel with most of the passengers.  My companions and I found it necessary to engage an Indian to bring us to the ship.  The simple bark we engaged could hardly hold us; we were forced to kneel down, huddling close together.  Added to this discomfort a breeze, contrary to our making a direct course to the roadstead, sprang up and this caused us to fear that the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Elisa</HI>
083.sgm: would go under sail with it and at any moment disappear from our sight.  Night fell before those on the ship heard our calls and sent help.  After great exertion and danger, wet through and chilled, we finally arrived on board.  When I look back over this incident I could regard it as an omen of a sea voyage the description of which filled the gloomiest pages of my diary.  Enough of such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:happenings foreshadow undertakings over the whole world.  Would that we could be warned against one by heeding them.  If no premonition is felt from such an occurrence there is an inclination to blame oneself for the resulting misfortune and for not having taken warning.  Yet only bigoted people believe in what is designated as premonition, fate and presentiment, all that which cannot be understood but is described by such poetical terms.</p><P>The breeze became a storm; the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Elisa</HI>
083.sgm: was forced to ride at anchor the first night.  The following morning we picked our way between the Pearl Islands towards the sea wind.  The islands, rocky and bleak, partly encrusted with sea salts by the waves and partly covered with guano, still have great pearl treasures concealed in their vicinity.  Pearl fishing, which has been destroyed by lowering the price of the pearls, has been paralyzed for a long time.  The pearl fisher living on Tabago hardly finds it necessary to plunge into this dangerous business when he can find pay and shelter so easily now that his own country has become more frequented.  Several companies have attempted to stimulate and enlarge the business but without the desired result.  It will not be easy to bring back to the pearl fisheries near Panama such happy times as those of which the most striking monuments are the pearl shell decorated towers of the cathedral.</p><P>Occasionally pearls are found washed up by the waves on the shore of the bay; these sometimes fall into the hands of wash-women and are sold then by them for a few <HI REND="italics">reals</HI>
083.sgm:.  The pearl coveredcomb of the colored person, which they all try to procure and which is as common to them as is the native's kidney-shaped <HI REND="italics">Cujaker</HI>
083.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: or elephant's tooth necklace with which he performs miracles, shows how cheaply these can be bought.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">A <HI REND="italics">Therebinthaceae</HI>
083.sgm:<P>About three miles from the Pearl Islands the wind filled the sails and blew the ship forward on the correct course.  Land soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:disappeared beyond the horizon and with one last look we turned towards the pictures of the sea.</p><P>When we leave an equatorial region we have the most pleasant memories of the aesthetic pleasure felt at seeing the colorful decoration of the earth and its infinite wealth of beautiful creatures and if we have at the same time learned to understand the meaning of these varied, beautiful expressions of nature, they appear even more extraordinary and lead us into all kinds of reflections.</p><P>The deep strong colors of tropical creations of all kinds in which the nuances are changed according to the season in response to chemical or physical causes--as evident in the glorious feathers of the birds and the shimmering covering of the fishes and insects--are so striking that they are entirely characteristic of those creatures.  If the reason for these peculiar appearances are sought, laws are encountered which are not only necessary for the existence and development of individual creations but seem also to have been created for the welfare and delightful existence of the highest creature, the human being.</p><P>No insect, no plant could exist on the savanna if it were not for the great porousness of the sun-cracked dark-colored earth, probably colored by its great iron content.  During the day warmth and light is greedily swallowed by the earth, the former being given off again to the latter as soon as the air cools; perhaps both are partially decomposed in the bowels of the earth in some still unexplained way.  The intensity of the reflected light and heat and other contrasting peculiarities of the earth would be unbearable for human beings if such a process did not take place.  Similar effects of inner and outer examples of creation according to need are evident in the darker shades and more loosely celled structure which distinguishes the tropical vegetation and all living creatures of the tropics.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>Forest vegetation plays the most important role in this process; the plants express it wonderfully in their coloful daytime dress.  The peculiar leaf-green darkens by day after the taking of nourishment (carbon-dioxide) and is therefore not of a little service in modifying too bright sunlight by a consuming or breaking-down process, while during the night the leaf-green becomes lighter and more vivid in the mechanical process of absorbtion by the plants.  This process thus perhaps takes part in the causes of the apparent morning and evening twilights.  The resinous, watery leaf-green becomes modified during the process and if light is continually absent or its effect is weakened in some way, as in winter for example, red and yellow coloring matter is formed which reflects the light more strongly.  This green light when broken up by the leaves has a very good effect on the ripening of the fruits which lose their oxygen content and in which the starch and amylaceous parts are changed into rubber and sugar.  The juice of some vegetables undergoes a peculiar change of taste during this shading of the leaf-green by sunlight.  The leaves of the cotyledon <HI REND="italics">Calicina</HI>
083.sgm: and those of the <HI REND="italics">Cacalia sicoides</HI>
083.sgm: taste sour in the morning, are tasteless at noon, and bitter in the evening, a proof of the ro&circ;le played by the different degrees of light in absorbing nutrition by plants, their coloring appearing to the chemists as the result of burning.  Still more peculiarities and advantages of plant life of the tropics can be studied and assumed in this connection; but it would lead us too deep into the field of physiological chemistry.  During the night when all creatures on the earth and in the tree tops go to rest nature develops most admirable activity in the quiet tropical forests.  The richly absorbed warmth streams lightly to the aerial heights and if these are free of clouds and clear they advance the process and this takes place just when the circumstances seem to demand it, that is on summer nights rather than in winter.  The greater the evaporation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:the greater is the cooling of the air layers closest to the earth and around the individual creations of the forest.  A vapor cloud is formed above, which protects the delicate plant creatures from the moonbeams and any harmful cold.  When the phenomenon of daybreak begins it falls as refreshing dew.</p><P>This nightly evaporation, by means of its pressure and the equalizing effect of warmth and cold, creates the land winds which serve the sailor and which during the day, because of the absorbtion of warmth, are thrust aside by the sea winds, and this continual change of air effects a closer mixture with the other gases of the atmosphere of the oxygen exhaled by the plants which serves the life processes of the animals.</p><P>The air of the tropical countries is believed to be poorer in oxygen than that of countries in the colder regions.  Man would suffer here from this if it were not that a smaller content of oxygen is needed here in the creation of energy, which is shown by an increased demand for vegetable food, and as this requires less oxygen to make carbon dioxide and water to carry on digestive and breathing processes it is again balanced, or perhaps it would be better to say, that the atmosphere of the tropics has the correct composition for the welfare of man.</p><P>The food of the inhabitants of the tropics consists mostly of starch, sugar and rubber, materials which are gradually changed into fat in the organism.  This causes loose cell tissue which, like the dark color of the skin, adds to easier secretion of the volatile substances and to greater creation of energy as in plants.  It is astonishing that the air of the tropics is so oxygen poor when animal life in the hot regions needs less oxygen, while on the other hand the predominating plant life exhales very much oxygen, even more than is inhaled in the form of carbon dioxide, and that the newer researches have shown that plants also consume nitrogen from the atmosphere for their nourishment.  Oxygen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:then, must be used here in some other way and this may be indicated by the fact that strongly ozonised air has been found especially in the tropics by means of the Ozonometer,--that peculiar atmospheric principle which seems to play a more important ro&circ;le in nature's household than has been previously assigned to it.<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: This is a surmise engendered by the knowledge that nature moves with the most varied effects, still offering many problems for research.  Nature even infringes on her own much praised laws, which we partly understand but mostly see only in their effect; infringes on them just where such an infringement seems necessary or pre-determined in order to smooth out incongruities in relation to organic life.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">Whoever has read the very stimulating work by Dr. Frd. Schmalz "Concerning Ozone in the earth as the inexhaustible source of nitrogen, and about its action in relation to vegetation" and agrees with his supposition based of Prof. Scho&die;nbein's immortal Ozone theories will find in the tropics the richest and most important region for furthering the interests of his research problem.  The atmosphere on the tropical sea is pregnant with the miasma destroying ozone, like in the dew-forming process in the tropical forest, as a result of the frequent unloading of the thunder clouds which are easily formed by the strong vaporization of the ocean.  The effect of the atmospheric air is shown most intensively on the Ozonometer at the beginning of the rainy period when the tropical porous earth, cracked by the heat of the sun and containing much iron or iron oxide, clay and humus, draws together and distinctly changes its color while it greedily swallows water and exhudes the peculiar ammonia-like earth-gas.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>On sea as on land in the tropics the most glorious colors can be seen.  The shining tints of the clouds and the charming infinite blue above and below are a continual surprise, and when the evening sky blends in its colors and "places its arch in the clouds" a magic circle is created for heart and spirit the delightfulness of which can never be surpassed.  The scintillating of the stars at sea, the Newton color rings with the Clio-Borealis layer on the calm surface of the sea, the similar color reflection on the blistered skin of the tortured slowly dying shark called the "rose-colored one" by the revengeful sailor who caused his death--all this and other common phenomena produce a great effect.  The deep blue water close by or in the shadow of the ship contrasts with the lightest green in the distance, where those peculiar sea spots are formed about the cause of which there is still such a difference of opinion.  A more detailed examination of these moving sea fields shows them to be most visibly beautiful when a lowered temperature has made vapor layers in the air over the surface of the water, which graduallydissolves again in the sunshine after a light breeze has driven them together in clouds.Goethe says in his <HI REND="italics">Farbenlehre</HI>
083.sgm: p. 78, "When divers are under the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:sea and the sunlight is in their bells everything around them that is illuminated is colored purple while the shadows look green."  And on p. 164, "In bright sunshine the bottom of the sea seems to the divers to be purple while the water of the sea has the effect of being a cloudy and deep medium.  At this time they observe that the shadows are green which is the required color."  If this phenomenon below the surface of the water is compared with the analogous one above it and the cloud vapor layers are considered to be the same as the shade creating medium the green sea spots can be explained by the refraction of the sunlight.</p><P>The most wonderful color and light spectacle, reminding one of Do&die;llers "dissolving views" is at sunrise and sunset while a full moon scene under the tropical sky makes an indescribable supernatural impression.  The sea traveler soon experiences physical discomfort, however, from the oppressive heat as well as from the terrible thunderstorms, the enormous power of which are felt here in all their force when "lightning glitters in the night and Pole and Heavens crash."  These are far beyond the imagination of those who have not experienced them,<ANCHOR ID="n2-3">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: and the traveler soon feels an easily explainable aversion to his surroundings in spite of all their glory and beauty, so that he often is not interested in the greatest phenomena of air and sea which occur before him, or is unable to grasp their true greatness.  The pale mariner leaning against the mast in the moonlight would seem very interesting on land but is as repulsive here because of his tar smell as is the highly seasoned ship's stew which is served for food.  On land the pale ribbed surface of the water on which the bright beams of the full moon shine could be compared to a silver net through whose mesh jump the fishes of the sea, but here it appears like a shroud.  Great depression and unhappy moods are unavoidable by-products of a tropical sea voyage.  The perceptive faculty is stimulated by the most trival outer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:influences or alternates with utter exhaustion so that it becomes difficult to avoid that lethargic condition in which one resembles a ghost who is even unable to feel any inclination toward the daughters of Nereus who dance merrily about on the sea.  It would take much strength to exhibit self control in this pickled state and its long duration or frequent repetition would dull the senses as is evident in older sea travelers who are endowed by the eternal trinity of sea life "grayness, grumbling, and grieving" with the appearance of the olympic Zeus, who is able to move the earth by lifting his brows.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3">Naming this ocean the "Pacific" seems like irony to one who has experienced such storms.  On the Atlantic Ocean I never saw such high and wild waves as here in the South Sea; but the storms here seem to subside much more quickly than they do there, probably as a result of the greater specific weight of the more saturated salt water.  The first voyagers on the South Sea perhaps named it Pacific because it was not made lively at that time by extensive shipping.  Today, however, considering the great sea commerce between South America, Australia, the East Indies, China, the Sandwich Islands, California and Mexico, it earns the name "Crowded Ocean.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The passengers of the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Elisa</HI>
083.sgm: were in just such an uncomfortable situation during the first days of their voyage to the upper part of the Pacific Ocean below 06&deg; N. lat. Captain Monroe intended to reach the northeast trade wind and to tack northwest with it.  With the beginning of summer on the northern hemisphere the northeast trade wind is occasionally crowded back by the trade wind coming from the south and a <HI REND="italics">Monsoon</HI>
083.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">Mousson</HI>
083.sgm: then occurs; with this steering should be northeast.  The captain was firmly convinced that he would make the trip in fifty days.</p><P>We ran southwest to 90&deg; W. long. trying in vain to steer northwest and when we were almost on the equator at 03&deg; instead of the anticipated <HI REND="italics">monsoon</HI>
083.sgm: we were completely becalmed.  This is the border of the northeast trade wind and it is not without worry that the sea traveler recognizes still water from which a ship is rarely spared the dangerous ship fever.  No bit of air seems able to stir, only occasionally at night the quiet element lazily rises and falls rocking the ship a little.  The traveler awakes then again from his gloomy brooding and hopefully looks towards the direction from which he awaits a stronger, more effective sea breeze.  He does this in vain, however, for the rocking movement of the sea is caused by the moon, the result of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:sidereal influence which is as puzzling to him as is Saint Elmo's fire which occurs especially frequently here.</p><P>Day is unbearable; night offers a little diversion in viewing the starry heavens if one's senses are still alert enough to be attracted by the great brilliance and clear colorful scintillation of the southern constellations.  The Southern Cross, so often previously described, probably inspires admiration in everyone.  To compare its charm to that of a diamond cross on a virgin's bosom is not new, but I compared it to an antique gallows on which I sacrificed my pleasant mood on the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Elisa</HI>
083.sgm:.  On the eighth day the annoying situation of our ship life was changed.  A strong puff of wind, a squall, followed some lightning and under "double reefed topsails" we left Scylla to go to Charybdis.</p><P>We had food for only sixty days on board and were already thirty days at sea on 09&deg; N. lat. and 95&deg; long.  It had been necessary to replenish the water several times with rain water as the impurities in it made it a foul, ammonia-like fluid which was very disgusting and often caused nausea.  On the thirtieth day only half portions of food were dispensed for the cabin as well as for the steerage passengers.  The salt meat which in the beginning had hardly received any attention now became the main food.  All the other courses had disappeared.  Fresh bread could not be baked any more!  I had enjoyed the last piece on my birthday.</p><P>After fifty days the food for both cabin and steerage passengers was distributed from one pot.  That last tasty bite was prepared to glorify the American holiday of Washington's birthday after there had been a dispute as to whether the flour needed for it should not rather be saved.  We were then below 20&deg; N. lat. 111&deg; W. Long.  The wind drove us continually towards the west, and as our need became more pressing we petitioned Captain Monroe to cross over to the coast in order if possible to take on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:new provisions.  He did not accede to this suggestion; he hoped to reach the <HI REND="italics">Monsoon</HI>
083.sgm: one degree farther west and to arrive with it at San Francisco in twenty days.  We reached 112&deg; but the wind still showed no change of direction.  The passengers became very angry and again petitioned the captain to turn around, but in vain; he was thereupon notified that he would be held responsible for all consequences.</p><P>During a violent storm the ship had sprung such a leak between its planks on the larboard side that in one night the water stood above the ballast.  This consisted of sand which had been taken on board in San Francisco during the last trip.  When the pumps were pulled, they proved to be stopped up with the sand.  The sailors and passengers, exerting themselves to the utmost, were unable to lessen the danger by calking the leak until the pumps had been pulled out several times and inclosed in a suitable sieve apparatus.  From then on, however, the passengers were obliged to work every day at the pumps.</p><P>Several passengers were now delegated by the others to make a search of the ship for the remaining provisions.  The treasure they discovered consisted of decayed salt meat, crumbling musty zwieback, spoiled rice and fat waste.  This stuff, according to an older sailor, had been on the ship for years and was intended for use as pig feed.  Every morning it was now weighed off for the passengers so that each could use his portion during the day as he saw fit.</p><P>Several days previously the cook and steward had been deposed; the kitchen became a republican possession and as there was an insufficient supply of wood a fire could only be made for two hours during the day.  Every one tried to get near it to cook his bit as well as he could.  Naturally this arrangement caused a great deal of scolding and quarreling.  the retired cook, an ugly bad-tempered negro who was accustomed secretly to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:allow some of the passengers certain advantages for "cash" was the first to suffer bloody blows at the hands of the sailors for his selfish activities.  The sailors now took over the kitchen and with it the greatest power.  The captain himself transferred the performance of his duties to an assistant and was rarely seen again.  The helmsmen deserved praise for their friendly and sympathetic treatment of the passengers and the patience with which they shared our bitter fate.  They supplied firewood for the kitchen by splitting up the reserve mast and tended the fire themselves.  After the sixtieth day we did without tea, coffee, sugar and spices.  We had only the fat to make the spoiled provisions somewhat edible and to prevent rapid emaciation.  I had an opportunity of seeing the preserving effect of fat on a starving body and like a Laplander came to praise it after a successful experiment of washing the fat in salt water and mixing it with zwieback crumbs which made such a tasty and nutritious dish that it was soon in vogue with all the passengers.</p><P>The last provisions were being consumed.  Bitter reproaches, curses and quarrels occurred on all sides.  The sailors had found a small cask of powder in the hold which they divided among themselves and adherents, and with which they planned either to start a mutiny or to protect themselves as their main idea was to leave the ship in the boats with a favorable wind, taking with them the rest of the food and rowing towards the coast.  They still carried out orders, not from obedience or a sense of duty, but for their own selfish ends.</p><P>Every day there were fist fights on the quarter deck; the most rebellious threats were uttered and even the officers were unable to offer any objection to the disorderly conduct.  Vulgar expressions were used to curse the captain and the last spark of respect due him disappeared entirely when a sailor made it known that the decrepit ship had been condemned years before in New <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:York and that the whole trip was a daring speculation in which Captain Monroe himself had a share.  Once when he fell asleep over his nautical calculations his hat was taken off and fastened to the point of the mainmast with the following label fastened to it: CAPT. MONROE IS LOOKING OUT FOR THE ARCTIC NAVIGATOR FRANKLIN!  On another occasion he was unable to find his boots.  When he asked the sailors for them they replied gruffly, "We were so hungry that we ate them."<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">Even in the greatest misfortune the American preserves his stability and presence of mind and during the most oppressive occurrences his good sense of humor never deserts him.  The foreigner learns to prize these traits of character, typical of the inhabitants of the New World, and these are the determining factors in his choice of American traveling companions, for he can be sure that he will fare well with them even though they be of that class about which one cries:  <HI REND="italics">Comment pourrait on s'y perdre</HI>
083.sgm:<P>The first officer was treated just as disrespectfully.  Bitterness was expressed in every way and no occasion to scoff and deride was allowed to pass.  Caricatures were drawn and these made the captain as hated as he was ridiculous.  In the meantime need had reached extremity; in a few days we would have had to become familiar with examples of those deeds of horror which enrich the pages of the shipping almanacs of those days when hunger was so common.  I wrote the following page in my diary at the time I anticipated the worst.</p><P>Pacific Ocean; longitude 131 W., latitude 30 N. Hunger had made me sleepy so I was able to sleep last night until three o'clock in the morning.  Restless footsteps walking to and fro on the deck woke me.  The waves splashed gently against the ship's side and the sound of the slack sails told me that the wind had died down and the ship was standing still.  I listened quietly for a moment and heard the sighing and groaning of some of the passengers whose last hope of being saved seemed to have left them when the calm set in.  The torrent of laments and reproaches was caused not so much by hunger as by the great disappointment.  The starving person at sea feels the full power of the enemy grumbling in his body only when the sails hang slackly on the mast like the wrinkling skin on his empty stomach and when the breeze stops fanning the blaze of his hope and courage.</p><P>Vainly I tried to force myself not to hear these infectious sounds of lamentation.  I could not withstand them, already I bore the contagion in my heart, my calm was shattered and black pictures swam before my eyes.  At daybreak when I stepped on the deck I noticed several passengers standing near the anchors looking at a white dot which announced a sail on the horizon.  It was a three-master coming towards us.</p><P>At eight o'clock in the morning the ship was so close to us that we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>Help is near when distress is greatest, even on the sea.  We discovered an American brig which sold us provisions.  The joy of the passengers was indescribable and it seemed impossible that after a mere twenty-four hours they were again in as happy a mood as if they had never made any complaints.  Happiness and joy increased still more when after ten days we sighted the coast of Upper-California and altogether gave one great shout of joy as a greeting to the new land.  After an Odyssey of 109 days, aided by a light south wind, we reached the harbor of Monterey, discovered in 1803 [1603] by Vizcaino.</p><P>Although San Francisco was the goal of my journey I decided to go on shore here with several companions.  After twelve days more the ship with the rest of the passengers finally arrived in San Francisco where, after the story of the trip was made known, a complaint was made against her owners and she was condemned for the second and last time.  She had every bad trait; was dilapidated, wormeaten and so badly built that even in the most favorable wind she could not make the requisite number of knots.  Her main defect was a continual lengthwise rocking which caused disgusting and embarrassing <HI REND="italics">pittching</HI>
083.sgm: [pitching].  As she could hardly be steered in a strong wind the captain planned to stay as far from the coast as possible.  This plan forced us to pass through a blow-pipe flame near the equator at the edge of the northeast trade wind.  Our "Hunger Captain" who, like the Flying Dutchman, always sailed against the wind, can never vindicate this trial by fire to which he exposed us.</p><P>The passengers of the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Elisa</HI>
083.sgm: were able to withstand all this misery for such a length of time only because they were mostly young, sturdy people and because there were several sensible, generally useful Americans among us who were able to protect us from bloody revolt.  The Americans alone were able to impress the crowd and turn them from troublesome reflections.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:Divine service was arranged by them every Sunday, during which an American preacher attempted to instill new courage and hope into us.  And really such hours of prayer had a soothing effect on the crowd.  If prayer somehow achieves the "uplift of the whole soul concentrated in the consciousness" it does so when man separated from all accustomed things, is hardly able to console himself in his unfortunate situation without faith in God.  "God's wisdom and protection are found everywhere, and not for these alone must we pray, but rather to thank Him must we essay."  Certainly it may be said to be a gift of God when a hungry crowd of the most varied individuals of human society, encountering new dangers every day, still possessed enough strength to conquer their suffering and despair.  When we build on God's wisdom we build also on our own!</p><P>The most horrible food was consumed on the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Elisa</HI>
083.sgm:; hunger had lessened the power of discrimination to such an extent that the fatigued brain was incapable of maintaining the mental powers, and animal greed demanded any kind of satisfaction for the stomach.  It was a terrible sight to see the ravenous faces pushing greedily towards a newly opened cask from which green and yellow-tinged salt meat spread a smell of rottenness.  Each squad of passengers had its portion of this weighed out and, half-cooked, it was divided into smaller portions and handed out to the individuals.<ANCHOR ID="n2-5">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: It was sad to see the people chew roots and aromatics intended for medicines in order to keep their eating organs busy.  As long as there was still tea on board the Americans, who could do without food sooner than without chewing tobacco, after the tea had been steeped, used the leaves for a tobacco substitute.<ANCHOR ID="n2-6">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: One of the doctors divided licorice and sarsparilla roots for chewing purposes and another distributed sulphuric acid thinned to vinegar.  Once when a bunch of flying fish was precipitated on deck they were received like manna <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:fallen from heaven.  Occasionally the passengers were able to shoot some sea gulls which are usually regarded as the souls of departed sailors.  We were not able to harpoon dolphins although they circled the ship with their odd jumps.  Several sharks were caught but they only served as food for the sailors after the oily meat had been soaked sufficiently in water.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-5">This meat developed so much ammonia that when hydrochloric acid was held three paces distance from the cask it produced the thickest kind of ammonia vapor.  I made among others the following physiological observations:  After the daily consumption of six ounces of this meat, together with one pound of re-baked mouldy zwieback, and one-half quart of concentrated tea, a quantity of clear dark brown urine was produced which, after standing in the air for six hours, became cloudy.  After pouring this off a sediment remained, which consisted mostly of carbonic ammonia.  This food completely satisfied one's needs and did not result in the least perceptible harmful influence on the body.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-6">The American's vice and passion for chewing tobacco has been often related by travelers and the fact is probably well known that during a meal the American either lays the half-chewed tobacco quid down on the table or holds it in his hand so that he can resume chewing it as soon as possible.  I would like to add that I have also observed Americans do this who were taking the Lord's supper!</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>All activity and conversation of the passengers disappeared during this hunger period and some most unusual ways of living were demonstrated.  Remaining in the musty hold or in bed was preferred to coming on deck; and we dressed as warmly as we could and consumed the hottest possible food and drink.  The rapid burning of blood was delayed because less air was breathed than usual and warmth was obtained in other than physical ways.  The consumption of tea and rotten food, so rich in carbon dioxide, was even preserving and allowing the hair on head and face to grow could also be called a gain for the life process.  Thus one may consider how life can be prolonged in the starving person during the emaciation of the body and the simultaneous metamorphosis of brain and heart, however gruesome the process may be.</p><P>Thirst is perhaps more distressing than hunger when a foaming flood is constantly before the eye while the dry gums vainly yearn for coolness.  At times we had to bear these Tantalus tortures for days before rain again filled our casks.  Frequent bathing in salt water did, however, somewhat lessen the violence of this thirst.</p><P>In spite of all these deprivations there were only a few cases of sickness, although scurvy became very prevalent during the last few days.  Several passengers who suffered from this horrible illness looked exactly like skeletons.  Still they were able to keep a hold on life, consuming frequent doses of thinned out sulphuric acid, until they could be cured on land.  Everywhere only gloomy, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:earth-colored faces with sunken eyes and prominent cheekbones were visible.  The four female passengers who had enough of the food with smell and sight of it faded away to shadows.  Although at all times it takes a great deal of self control to proffer a friendly service to a woman at sea, it required a great deal more here, when one wished to approach these creatures sympathetically with something edible which under the critical circumstances might be to their taste.  A young American woman who was on her way to meet her fiance&acute; in San Francisco was transformed into an old woman and the saddest picture was that of a mother who was unable to nurse her infant son while a little girl at her side cried in vain for food.</p><P>We had only two corpses during the whole trip.  Twice the starry banner waved as a sign of distress over that miserable ruin of a ship and twice it served as a shroud under which the victims of that distress sank into their deep watery grave.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>And all dance in the sea<LB>No one knows where he will go<LB>Or if he will ever return<LB>From where he is blown by wave and wind.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>On to the St. Joaquin</p><P>MONTEREY, called the California paradise, had the following inscription on its portal: " <HI REND="italics">quien quierre morir, que se vaya del puebla</HI>
083.sgm: [pueblo]."<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: Nothing was left to be desired to glorify the existence of this enviable city with its beautiful fruitful surroundings, healthy air, wealth and prosperity of its gay inhabitants and their cordial pleasant life together under the paternal care of wise priests.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">"He who wishes to die should go from this town."  The climate of Monterey is so healthy that there is only one death to six births and only one doctor is needed for 3000 souls.  Actually at the time of my arrival there was only one doctor who assured me that during the whole summer only one important case of illness occurred among the natives.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>Monterey had lost much of its glory, however, since the days of the revolution.  During this time the good fathers were forced to leave the happy land of their Christian missions.  After their departure there remained a desire for the Egyptian fleshpots, this having been formerly fulfilled by a wave of the pious Padres' wishing wand.</p><P>Now the gold rush had awakened the inhabitants of the adobe city from the lethargy which threatened to overcome them and new life and new joy dwelt in their midst.  I found this to be true when I walked between the scattered vine-covered buildings on my way to a <HI REND="italics">Meson</HI>
083.sgm: where I was about to do away with the last bit of physical and mental discomfort of the past days.  My friend Witfield [Whitfield], a young doctor who also had endured the unfortunate starvation diet of the voyage had already <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:ordered there a well laid table and from the threshold of the California hotel he called to me, "All is ready," with as much joy as if he had just discovered a new country or a gold mine.</p><P>Everything was really ready.  The aroma of the meal was wafted towards us, a group of Mexican troubadours was waiting to entertain us as well as several <HI REND="italics">Caballeros</HI>
083.sgm: who were playing at the faro table in the small room next to ours.  Sen&tilde;ora Petronella, the cordial landlady, was willing to put kitchen and cellar with all appurtenances at the disposition of her newly arrived guests.  Several <HI REND="italics">muleros</HI>
083.sgm: stood around outside who declared themselves willing to accompany us at any time into the interior.</p><P>The cordiality and prodigality of our immediate surroundings was such that we could not even think of going on at this time.  We wished also to become more familiar with this place which we had entered with childish pleasure and in which every step brought us new joy after the long barbarous period at sea.  We needed several days for this, during which time we could completely recuperate our strength.  We found cordiality on all sides and observed that although the European was still a stranger to Monterey he was much liked there.  Otherwise we surely could not have been favored, right on the first day, with an invitation from the former <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
083.sgm: of the city, Mr. Hartnell, who placed his house at our disposal so that we should enjoy resting in it for as long as we liked, and who would have been insulted by a refusal of this invitation.  After we had obtained an ineffaceable picture of the old California coast city we proceeded to his rancho, Patrocinio del Alisal, situated about twenty miles from Monterey.</p><P>Monterey, seen from its calm harbor, resembles a bird niche around which circle flocks of pelicans, sea-ducks and sea-gulls who undisturbedly pursue their wild hunt in the bay for fish.  Bounded on the south by a pine-covered slope, on the north by a flat garden-covered plain, and on the east by cool forests the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:town gives ample evidence of the priests' sagacity in the choice of their dwelling places.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Mountains and dense forests as far as can be seen,<LB>With heights covered always by many pastures green.<LB>Clear lakes with many fish and countless brooks and rills,<LB>And then the broad valley with meadows, slopes, and hills.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>Besides several churches and the garrison, which is occupied by a detachment of American soldiers and serves also as city hall, the city has no prominent buildings.  Low earthquake-defying houses with cool cellars suffice a people who live together as one family alternating between piety and amusement.  The inhabitants of Monterey, who are wealthy, happy and reach a very old age, spend their time visiting fairs and <HI REND="italics">fandangos</HI>
083.sgm:.  Nothing else but amusement has any value for them, even the development of their country only troubles them.  The words in every mouth are, "Pray and amuse yourself," or, as the Italian says:  <HI REND="italics">la mattina una mesetta, e la sera una bassetta</HI>
083.sgm: (in the morning a small mass and in the evening a gambling game), and the words of leave-taking are <HI REND="italics">mucho divertissmento</HI>
083.sgm: (much pleasure!).  These words, uttered by some of our well-wishers, resounded in our ears as we rode with the old <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
083.sgm: from the city to his California estate in a carriage to which four lively ponies were spanned.</p><P>Ocean, city and forest lay behind us.  Soon we reached a broad plain where smoke and flames announced a raging prairie fire, but we had to cross it as the Patrocinio del Alisal lay beyond.  At first Whitfield and I thought this risky but we had hardly recognized the danger before the carriage had flown through the devouring element and we had passed through the fire cloud.  That was a fox hunt, but one unfortunately without the "stuff" to quench our thirst.  We were branded and smoky from head to foot.  The family Hartnell need have no fear of receiving any contagion from us.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>Before us now lay a landscape through which flowed a treelined irrigation ditch, an acequia, and as we reached the foot of a prairie hill Mr. Hartnell's ranch buildings and a whole group of his family became visible.  Without further ado they embraced us one after the other in the manner customary in the land, welcomed us cordially and called us their desired guests at whose " <HI REND="italics">mui</HI>
083.sgm: " dispositionthey placed the whole house.  This is a Mexican custom which is not merely empty etiquette but shows expressively the liberality which is not to be found in any other land.  The European speaks of himself as "your most humble servant", the Californian calls himself your "friend" and really upholds this relationship.</p><P>Rancho Patrocinio del Alisal is over thirty <HI REND="italics">leguas</HI>
083.sgm: in circumference; it is a whole duchy.  Eight thousand head of cattle and several thousand horses and sheep graze here.  Not far from the dwellings there is a silver mine which was formerly operated very successfully and constituted the main object of my visit.  It was said that this had been exhausted but after a short search I re-discovered the vein which later brought the mine again into operation.  During my stay no workers could be found as everyone either flew to the southern gold mines, which at that time had just been discovered, or demanded too high wages.  The mine consists of genuine silver, lead ore and limestone embedded in quartz which is occasionally characterized by <HI REND="italics">Itakolonit</HI>
083.sgm:.  There are several such silver mines in the California coast range, most of them belonging to the church fathers, and the missions produced enormous wealth from them.  They are abandoned now and all kinds of fairy tales have made them terrifying and inaccessible for the superstitious people.  A time may come, however, when tales of past glory will open them again and they will vie with the mines of the great gold rush.  Surely there is silver enough in California, and as some research has shown in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:Australia also, to wipe out the picture of golden horror of the world of finance, but "where gold speaks other speech carries no weight."  A higher valuation of silver would perform miracles.</p><P>Agriculture is not carried on extensively at Patrocinio del Alisal nor at other California ranchos.  Cultivated fields, or <HI REND="italics">milpas</HI>
083.sgm:, are seen only here and there.  Lack of trained workmen and the very profitable business of cattle raising have stifled any further agricultural pursuits.  Mr. Hartnell would be delighted to have European settlers on his rancho; the advantages which he is prepared to offer to them would surpass anything which has ever been anticipated in such contracts.</p><P>At the time of the missions California produced 100,000 barrels of wine yearly and the same amount of brandy; today barely enough is produced for the market.  Mr. Hartnell owns a large piece of vineyard which, however, is in such a neglected state that the vines are rapidly becoming destroyed or growing wild.  On the other hand the vegetable garden of the rancho, which can be easily watered, leaves nothing to be desired.  Under the care of a French gardener it produces during the whole year the most varied and delicious native and foreign vegetables.  It gave me particular pleasure to walk between the green garden beds, reaching now and again for a radish, gooseberry, current or strawberry, and with everything else of which I had been deprived for so long growing right at hand.</p><P>The sight of the native garden plants is also pleasing.  The eye lingers with pleasure on the casaba melon ( <HI REND="italics">cresentia cujete</HI>
083.sgm: ), on the vine-covered earth-wall, on the dark green <HI REND="italics">ruqueta</HI>
083.sgm: bed, or on the pepper plant which chokes my praise in my mouth by its tongue-burning pod and without which life for the California ranch dweller is as impossible as for the Mexican.  If he be offered both a pepper pod and a strawberry-like <HI REND="italics">granadita</HI>
083.sgm:, he will disdain the latter.  <HI REND="italics">Chili verde</HI>
083.sgm: must never be absent from his table; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:it is like the white bread of the Frenchman.  Without chili all food is tasteless, and without chili his customs would be less fiery.  Fiery customs are to be found wherever pepper grows.  At Patrocinio del Alisal I had opportunity enough to observe this again, not, however, without variations.</p><P>Mr. Hartnell is a born Englishman.  He has been in this country for thirty years and is happily married to a Californian who presented him with twenty-two children, fourteen of whom are still living, the oldest son being twenty-seven years old and the youngest being baptized at the time of my stay at the rancho.  Mr. Hartnell was educated in Germany and speaks all modern languages very fluently.  He left nothing undone to have his children educated according to his standards and always kept a European tutor for this purpose.  I was not surprised therefore to find thoroughly educated people and everything which makes society pleasant in the middle of a broad prairie in this far corner of the world.  Every child had a musical training and brass and stringed instruments were played, from the French horn to the piano.  Every evening suitable instruments were heard together and signalled the beginning of the <HI REND="italics">tertulia</HI>
083.sgm:.</p><P>The whole household takes part in a California <HI REND="italics">tertulia</HI>
083.sgm:, even the servants have the pleasure of looking on.  It is a most liberal, but at the same time very aristocratic entertainment.  The richly dressed members of the family, together with the friends of the house favored as <HI REND="italics">compadres</HI>
083.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">comadres</HI>
083.sgm:, and the other guests, sit along the walls of a spacious room.  Respects are paid whereby a thousand compliments, a thousand wishes and a thousand pretty words are wasted.  " <HI REND="italics">Beso las manos!</HI>
083.sgm: " and " <HI REND="italics">Beso las pies!</HI>
083.sgm: "  [I kiss your hands! I kiss your feet!] passes from mouth to mouth and the most animated conversation is developed.  But the young <HI REND="italics">dons</HI>
083.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">donzellas</HI>
083.sgm: become too restless during this, they want music, song, games and dancing.  Everyone takes his turn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:at the piano and as he who can play should also be able to sing the stranger is quickly told, "No excuse, <HI REND="italics">Sen&tilde;or</HI>
083.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Sen&tilde;orita</HI>
083.sgm: will accompany you."  To earn applause it is only necessary to sing any strange song, which has a cheerful sound, because they like entertainment in music and song.</p><P>A <HI REND="italics">cigarillo</HI>
083.sgm:, rolled by the <HI REND="italics">Sen&tilde;orita's</HI>
083.sgm: deft fingers, is the stranger's reward for his cheerful song.  He is indeed unfortunate if he does not like to smoke and does not accept the <HI REND="italics">cigarillo "con mil gracias</HI>
083.sgm: " and " <HI REND="italics">con mucho gusto</HI>
083.sgm:," and smoke it to the health of its beautiful donor; for then she will never bestow her favor upon him, even if he be an Apollo!  Only the men take part in the national card game and while they are amusing themselves at this the young people play <HI REND="italics">juegas de prendas</HI>
083.sgm:, a popular forfeit game.  Soon everyone joins in, for one would certainly be a foolish fellow to wish to miss this entertainment in which the redeeming of the forfeit frequently affords unforgetable memories.  The <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
083.sgm:, without which the <HI REND="italics">tertulia</HI>
083.sgm: cannot be concluded, brings everyone together again to increase the pleasure of the group to its highest point.</p><P>The traveler soon learns that the dance in Spanish-America is unavoidable, even more than that, it has become the law of society here, the most universal pleasure embodied in a natural law, for the Spanish dance is a circling of its charming object.  Just like the planets around the sun it is a picture of life, of attraction and repulsion.  The Spanish-American dances as long as he lives and "I have enough of dancing" would mean for him "Oh, I am tired of living!"  He allows no opportunity for dancing to pass; how could a <HI REND="italics">tertulia</HI>
083.sgm: be ended without dancing?  These graceful movements, this casting of glances by the "lightly tanned sunburnt ones" and this light, skillful handclasping and interweaving of the odd figures of the Spanish dances would never end if it were not that the <HI REND="italics">matrone</HI>
083.sgm: of the house has the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:prerogative of announcing the midnight hour to the group and no one wishes to be the last to leave the parlor.</p><P>Night on a California or Mexican Rancho brings something unpleasant with it about which not a word would be said if its cause were not generally known in the country and if it were not an endemic evil: it is what one might call "flea-fever".  Hardly has one gone to bed when a whole band of these small devilish fleas pursue their bloody maneuvers on one's sensitive skin driving away sleep and torturing a man to madness.  One breaks out in a martyr's sweat and because of this and the continual throwing off of the covers one runs the risk of contracting a fever.  It is almost impossible to rid the body entirely of these vermin during the day so these blood-related parasites also join in the pleasant entertainment of the <HI REND="italics">Tertulia</HI>
083.sgm:.<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Many women, many fleas,<LB>Many fleas, much itching<LB>Though they cause you secret pain<LB>You dare not complain!<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>No hesitancy is shown on the rancho in speaking of this countrywide misfortune, even in the presence of ladies, and the stranger whose skin is not yet leathery enough to withstand it is unreservedly pitied.  During a conversation not the least hesitation is shown in making certain gestures [scratching] as it would be impossible to refrain from doing so.  These body beasts are more effective than the quintessence of Spanish pepper, the most imperative means for creating and stimulating southern customs!</p><P>Vermin has found a great homeland in the new world; the inhabitants of America can almost be differentiated by their various types.  The bedbug predominates among the inhabitants of the United States; the <HI REND="italics">garapato (acarus ixodes</HI>
083.sgm: ) or tick, the <HI REND="italics">nigua (pulex penetrans</HI>
083.sgm: ) or jigger, and the <HI REND="italics">alacran</HI>
083.sgm: or scorpion, among the South Americans; the flea among the Mexicans and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:Californians; and the louse among the Indians.  These are also symbols of these nations; the Yankee is insidious and sly like the bedbug, the South American is poisonous like the <HI REND="italics">alacran</HI>
083.sgm:, the Mexican and Californian are passionate like the flea, and the Indian shuns civilization like the louse.</p><P>At daybreak there is already much activity on the rancho.  The <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
083.sgm: and servants receive their breakfasts and disappear, some going to the savanna, while most of the members of the household start off on their morning ride.  All necessary work in house and yard is finished in the morning, the afternoon is dedicated to rest and idleness if a cattle taming or killing does not require the cooperation of all.  Everyone is glad to take part in these as they are celebrations of the ranchero.  Cattle slaughter is a real war of destruction against the animal herd.  The most beautiful beef is slaughtered in such great numbers that what in the morning was a roaring herd thundering over the ground is in the evening only a pile of skins and dried meat cut up into strips, horns and bones.  Above this hover carrion vultures, the California police, marking a repugnant field soaked with blood which under the sun's blaze soon taints the whole countryside.  " <HI REND="italics">Matanza! Matanza!</HI>
083.sgm: " is the joyous cry which sounds all day and the bellowing of the many steers sentenced to die mingles pitifully with the joyous cry.  Contemptuous of death the <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
083.sgm: push through the crowd, twirling their lassos in the air, steers fall under the knife of the butcher, the <HI REND="italics">media luna</HI>
083.sgm:, and the blood drizzles in streams.  <HI REND="italics">Carne con cuero</HI>
083.sgm:, a calf roasted in its own skin in the pile of ashes, is the dainty of the day, which the slaughtering group, the members of the household and the guests consume down to the bones which are left to the <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
083.sgm:, the pariahs of the rancho.</p><P>The greatest entertainment at the <HI REND="italics">matanza</HI>
083.sgm: is that of lasso throwing.  Every one present wishes to take a turn at it, but in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:order to be recognized as a lasso thrower one must be not only an excellent rider and have a keen eye, but one must also have beauty of motion.  The California ranchero has achieved virtuosity in this and his equal cannot easily be found.  He is accustomed from his earliest boyhood to approach his goal with his lasso, and this goal, which he attempts to lasso, is that some day he may be an excellent <HI REND="italics">lazadero</HI>
083.sgm:.</p><P>This ambition to learn early that with which later one may achieve distinction in society is also shown in the female sex in California.  The tiny girls, barely six years old, already learn dancing and riding.  California easily escapes, therefore, that posture and foot movement, which seems so ugly in a great part of the female sex and reminds one of certain feathered domestic creatures.</p><P>Lonely as life on the rancho may seem it in no way lacks ample entertainment and diversion for the stranger.  Occupation is the same every day but the scenes are varied and numerous.  The ranchero cannot bear monotony in his daily life, he even knows how to choose his daily ride so that he always returns home with new adventures and stimulates new conversation, jokes and laughter by his animated Hudibrastic telling of them.</p><P>It would have been difficult to have determined beforehand the end of my visit at Patrocinio del Alisal had I passionately devoted myself to all that made the stay so worthwhile for me or had I not suddenly remembered that my traveling plans extended beyond the California rancho.  Whitfield, too, worried over the fact that, although he smoked so many "delicately rolled" <HI REND="italics">cigarillos</HI>
083.sgm: and participated in so many excursions to mountain and meadow, he had lost much of his Don Quixote type and was fast approaching that of Sancho Pansa.  Our plan to leave immediately for the mountains was opposed by most influential voices which uttered the most horrible prophesies, but we had cast our dice in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:private and our mules were in the best condition to bring us across the plains before the beginning of winter or the California rainy period.  We threw ourselves, as did the son of Ulysses, into the waves and were free.</p><P>Armed from teeth to spurs, as was at that time customary for two lone riders in the gold country, and in a costume which completely harmonized with our route, we mounted our willing animals after we had taken our leave like sons of the family.  Suddenly the circle of <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
083.sgm: opened and a fat female donkey, packed with all kinds of provisions, was led forth from their midst as a present from the hospitable family.  I could hardly have mastered my surprise had I not remembered almost immediately that several days previously I had praised the beautiful animal when Donzella Theresita was mounted on it for her daily ride and that afterwards she had placed it at my "disposition".</p><P>Our road led us past the two important ranchos, Trinidad and Conception, to the mission town of San Juan eight hours distant.  These ranchos also have an abundance of water but their situation is not nearly so advantageous as that of Patrocinio del Alisal.  There is probably not a rancho in this neighborhood which surpasses the latter, nor an owner who is thought of more highly by his neighbors.  Everywhere in the land where his name is known Mr. Hartnell's praises are sung and any stranger who meets him must join in the praise; " <HI REND="italics">que el viva mil annos!</HI>
083.sgm: " they say about him.  Yes, indeed, may he live long as a popular, unselfish friend of his countrymen, may his Hacienda still be the Tusculanum of his later years!</p><P>Mr. Hartnell's large family of children is the most significant proof of his happiness and is at the same time a characteristic trait of California rancho life.  The boy whom I saw baptized when I was there flourished like the child of young parents and his mother showed hardly any visible signs of so much child bearing.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:This is one of the peculiar features of the California women about whom the proverb relates that they do not know what Sadness, Old Age, and Death look like and that their fruitfulness is not inferior to that of the earth on which they grew up.  There are enough such examples in California and this virtue of the country expresses itself also in such married couples who have come from other countries where they were childless.  The gratified parents say that it is caused by the healthy air but "the greatest magic lies in good humor" and "without wine and bread, love is dead".  In a country where will and strength can provide amply for existence the seamy side of life, which has such a destructive effect and which first of all embitters the pleasures of marriage, is unknown.</p><P>Turning one's attention from such animated family pictures to the valleys and rills of this enormous country, its vast stillness and loneliness, broken only occasionally by passing wanderers, impresses one even more.  A rancho is hardly left behind when one is again in empty and deathly quiet country and this in a land which no power could populate entirely, regardless of its wealth and fruitfulness, and where millions of acres are still awaiting cultivation.</p><P>The region of the Buenaventura River, which is eighty miles long and debouches twelve miles north of Monterey, is like this.  A narrow path leads past the wild-oat covered hills and past the mountains, rich in minerals, to the San Juan plain on which new signs of human activity are visible to the wanderer who has just climbed up from a mountain ravine.  There was formerly a flour mill and a plaster and lime kiln in this mountain ravine of San Juan; now the romantic spot, connected with the mission by a mile-long avenue lined with silver poplars, has become a sad place of pilgrimage.</p><P>San Juan Baptista consists of two rows of houses which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:form a cross at the foot of which is the main church and the spacious mission buildings.  Above the ruins of large private buildings rise the new dwellings of many recently settled Frenchmen and Americans, the present missionaries of the place.  In the west the rounded tops of the San Juan mountains are visible.  In the east extends the grassy prairie, bordered by hills and threaded by irrigation ditches.  The town has a very favorable, pretty location, also entirely in keeping with the ideas of the <HI REND="italics">ci-devant</HI>
083.sgm: pious padres.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Surrounded by bushes and trees<LB>The plain extends to the mountain ravines.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>Immediately on our arrival in San Juan I went directly to an old building which we had been told was the only <HI REND="italics">Meson</HI>
083.sgm: in the town.  As soon as I entered I heard a shrill voice shouting "no hai! no hai nada!"  [I have nothing] but even with the best sense of location and auditory perception I was unable to discover whence it came.  Somewhat surprised and annoyed at this rude reception I shouted back in good German "Hey peasant!"  " <HI REND="italics">No entiendo!  No hai</HI>
083.sgm:!" was the reply to my incomprehensible answer.  "The devil take it!  What haven't you got that I want?"  I finally asked in Spanish while Witfield let a <HI REND="italics">Peso duro</HI>
083.sgm: clang sharply on the floor.  The dollar produced magic results; it sounded sweeter than honeyed Spanish words.  The floor of the room opened and before us stood the old inn-keeper who, it seemed, had retired to the subterranean room to protect himself from the heat of the day.  He said he regretted very much that he could give us neither food or lodgings as his house was very badly off and everything had become so expensive "since so many strangers roamed about the country".  Then he paced restlessly back and forth in the room as if he had eaten pepper or...but after he heard again the clang of a dollar he turned about so quickly that he stumbled and fell through the trap-door <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:into the cellar.  " <HI REND="italics">Santa Maria purissima!  Dios de mi alma</HI>
083.sgm:!"  (Holy blessed Maria!  God of my soul!) was his first outburst but then he let loose a torrent of invective while he attempted to set to rights the many pots and baskets filled with provisions which he had upset by his fall.  This was undoubtedly his supply storeroom which he would probably not have shown to strange guests without a great deal of money.  Quite amused we left the pitiful <HI REND="italics">Meson</HI>
083.sgm: and with no alternative camped out of doors.</p><P>This first night spent in California out of doors together with our riding animals on the quiet plain gave us that pleasant impression of companionableness which comes even when camping in the most solitary places if contentment, modest demands, courage and Wanderlust dwell in the breasts of two comrades.  The soft night breezes crept toward us and whispered their secrets in our waiting ears, soon changing into a slumber song and then into a simple chorus, reminding one of the glorious songs of the Camp at Granada; the scintillating stars floated above our tired heads like guardians of the night, the moon smiled and gradually we sank back into the unconscious ego.</p><P>We slept tranquilly until the sun dried the morning dew on our foreheads.  I was extremely astonished, however, upon awaking at being almost unable to recognize my companion as his head, which he held between his hands, was swollen to a great size and resembled the Mecklenburg coat of arms on a blue field.  The smiling nightwatchman, "mild harmless Selene", had daguerreotyped a moon face for him which, however, soon disappeared.  As in the case of sleep-walking, the moon face still conceals one of those mysterious laws which science could only solve by accompanying Lesage's lame devil on a trip.  The orchard behind us, which in the darkness of the preceding evening we had believed to be a pleasure grove was also a surprise to us, the apple and pear trees laden with fruit were pleasing to our eyes.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:man, wrapped in his <HI REND="italics">Tilma</HI>
083.sgm: under his broad sombrero, who approaced us with a " <HI REND="italics">Buenas dias Senores</HI>
083.sgm: " really seemed to us to be the Adam of this garden.  He offered us his fruit and urged us to pick at will, as he was the watchman of the orchard.  When we praised the glorious garden he did not hesitate to reminiscence about the days when it was still under the fruitful care of the missionaries.  "O Santa Maria! Then and now!" he sighed, saying that he would give five fingers and all his possessions if those times would come again, but now it was improbable that they would return "since so many strangers were wandering about the country."  Whereupon he again filled our hats with apples, pears and apricots and wished us a thousand blessings on our way after I had pressed a gold piece in his fingerless hand which, according to his story, was a souvenir of the revolution.  He had a wooden leg which he had received also in a battle for the holy rights of his church fathers.  The apple does not fall far from the tree and I learned later that the poor fellow had formerly been a Franciscan.</p><P>In eastern America the apple is known for its juicy meat while the California apple has exactly the mealy taste of the European and is just as delicate, complete and beautiful as the latter.  The trees bear every year and reach a great age although they naturally require suitable watering.  The most peculiar feature of the California apple is that its seeds stand pointed upwards, that is, in the antipodal way.  I am surprised that the Yankees have not attempted to prove from this that America, "the glorious land where milk and honey flow" had its own paradise.</p><P>When we wished to proceed from San Juan we made the unpleasant discovery that "Alisal", our donkey, had fled for her home.  We did not want to lose the animal on any account; she was a valuable present and furthermore we cherished the hope of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:soon receiving an offspring from her.<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: I rode rapidly, determined if necessary to pursue the animal to Patrocinio del Alisal, but shortly I was lying in the mud of a marsh which I had overlooked in my haste.  My animal had fallen; the accident was exceedingly disagreeable and I could do nothing but take a bath and put on fresh linen.  Soon thereafter I was able to mount the second mule from which I had to dismount immediately, however, when a <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
083.sgm: made it clear to me that I had not saddled and packed my mule, but his.  The fatality of this second occurrence made me so angry that I almost overlooked an irrigation ditch.  I would have landed in this if my animal, which I finally had under my saddle, had not been less energetic than I and had responded to my violent spur.  I rode pace and trot through hill and dale and in a few hours covered the lonely way.  Alisal had been captured and I found her at Rancho Trinidad where she was returned to me after I declared the <HI REND="italics">fierro</HI>
083.sgm:, her brand.  I was only a few miles from the place where I had spent such a delightful days and I felt powerfully drawn there but mounting a hillock I remained content with one last look.  Alisal also turned around when she sensed the nearness of her home and emitted a pitiful, heartbreaking moan.  The donkey's longing for home made her forget the pain in her feet caused by the hobble which she had worn during her flight and in spite of which she had attempted to hop home.  Overtaken and disappointed she now broke into a loud bray of woe; and one calls the donkey a symbol of stupidity.  In reality a donkey is the symbol of perseverence and loyalty.  I should mention now that the California donkey's most bitter expression, like that of the Old-Californian, is nothing else than "a Y-ankee! a Y-ankee!"<ANCHOR ID="n3-3">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">Our interest in this offspring was well founded for its mother was the bastard of a female donkey and a Californian stallion, and it was to be produced from having bred her to a mule, who was the offspring of a brood mare and a Mexican donkey.  Such peculiar interbreeding between donkeys and horses and bastards happens occasionally in fruitful California and is certainly the most significant example of the boundless creation of nature where she is found in her full potency.  Wolf dogs as descendants of coyotes bred to all kinds of dogs and their most varied dog bastards are frequently found with the California Indians.  Many anomalies of nature's potency are also found when the botanist turns his eyes on the flora of the country.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-3">Yankee, in American slang, is synonymous with "smart fellow" (clever, sly fellow, <HI REND="italics">sub rosa</HI>
083.sgm:<P>It was on a Sunday that we finally left San Juan in the midst of a Mexican caravan which had arrived the day before after a four months' trip from Mexico and was glad to be able to travel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:with us under the American flag.  None of the caravan understood English and as at that time trouble occurred very quickly between Mexicans and Americans, because of the existing national animosity, we represented the position of American owners of this prairie fleet, which was then accorded immediate respect.</p><P>It is pleasant to travel in the new style, to be hurled by force of steam over a smooth road from one end of the world to the other with such rapidity that one has hardly time to think how great the distances must seem otherwise.  But there is also something pleasant about creeping along at a snail's pace on the back of a sure-footed mule while mile after mile is covered and restful pauses are made from time to time.  Everyone's excited fancy has surely painted for him at some time or other the picture of just such an adventurous caravan and has felt the urge to travel its leisurely gait.  One learns much there and above all one learns to be patient while traveling; a virtue almost beyond the conception of the modern world.  Each member of a caravan is confronted by all kinds of difficulties, danger and distress, but he possesses also great humor, happiness, pleasure and continual good health due to constant traveling.  The nationality of a caravan is most important to the foreigners who travel with it and he, who has become familiar with caravans of various continents, will retain fondest memories of one of these.  I, for my part, praise the Mexican.</p><P>The caravan with which we traveled consisted of 150 mules, donkeys and horses, and 100 Mexicans and Chileans.  It included the entire population of an exhausted Mexican silver mine which was now emigrating to seek new fortune in the California gold mines.  The caravan was made up of <HI REND="italics">majordomos</HI>
083.sgm:, foremen of the miners, <HI REND="italics">carettieri</HI>
083.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">barreteros</HI>
083.sgm:, miners, and peons and vaqueros, tired of ranch labor who were intended for <HI REND="italics">gambucinos</HI>
083.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">buscaderos</HI>
083.sgm: to seek gold.  Each was healthy and strong, every inch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:a Mexican.  According to the custom of Mexican caravans the calvacade was separated into three divisions.  The first was that of the owner and majordomos, the fellow travelers, friends and strangers; the second, the <HI REND="italics">cargaderos</HI>
083.sgm:, who looked after the goods and their assistants the <HI REND="italics">lazaderos</HI>
083.sgm:, the centaurs of the caravan; and third, the <HI REND="italics">arrieros and savannaros</HI>
083.sgm:, who took care of the cattle.  The horses were all Mexican, worthy progeny of that stallion which Bishop Leon brought from Andalusia to South America after he had driven the devil out of him.  Two-thirds of the animals consisted, however, of mules and burros, the native donkeys, and contrasted with the beautiful horses somewhat as did the <HI REND="italics">savannaros</HI>
083.sgm:, trailing at the end, with the cheerful majordomos.  The Mexican horse, with broad forehead and chest, short neck and body, twelve to fifteen hands high, with round thin legs, just as well-shaped hoofs, and much spirit and courage below the knees, possesses all the traits that give pleasure and honor to a caballero who understands <HI REND="italics">caballos</HI>
083.sgm: as well as he does cabal.  The majority of Mexican horses are either all white or all black as ravens; medium colors are not popular.  The Mexican likes only bright and extreme things and shows his preference in women as well as in horses.  A twelve-year old horse is considered young by the Mexican.  In its eighteenth year it still serves as a lasso horse which must rear and turn in full gallop, making the popular <HI REND="italics">vuelta</HI>
083.sgm: or pirouette, to rush with full speed and strength after the prey who will be captured in the noose of the skilful rider.  The mule and the donkey also have their praiseworthy traits.  The camel has been called the ship of the desert, the mule is the airship of the prairie and the mountains.  It is indeed a pleasure to be rocked along on one of these hybrid creatures, especially since Mr. B. in Brazil made the pretty discovery that the mule is comparable to the female mulatto.  A mule can carry sixteen, a donkey eight <HI REND="italics">arobas</HI>
083.sgm:; these animals can be fed straw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:and wood if the feed supply is low and they are only thirsty when water is at hand.  They are rarely lazy and will travel the most dangerous mountain path just as easily and unafraid as a somnambulist; that is why they are indispensable as the members of a Mexican caravan, accustomed as they are to great hardships and long fasts.</p><P>At daybreak after they have drunk their fill the animals of the Mexican caravan are led to the camp from the pasture where they were under the care of <HI REND="italics">savannaros</HI>
083.sgm:.  All have risen and the <HI REND="italics">madre</HI>
083.sgm:, usually a young boy, has filled the <HI REND="italics">botas</HI>
083.sgm:, the leather flasks, with water at the brook and brought them for breakfast.  He begins to prepare breakfast after a kind assistant has stirred up the fire for him.  Soon the <HI REND="italics">pote</HI>
083.sgm: filled with <HI REND="italics">poritos</HI>
083.sgm:, the tasty Mexican beans, cooked tender the evening before, crackles on the fire.  This cooking pot and the <HI REND="italics">sarden</HI>
083.sgm:, the frying pan, are the only cooking utensils in the caravan kitchen and are never cleaned.  The <HI REND="italics">madre</HI>
083.sgm: kneads corn dough in the <HI REND="italics">patea</HI>
083.sgm:, the broad wooden platter, from which <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
083.sgm:, the main food of the whole group, are fried.  He weighs off about half a pound of this dough in his hand, shapes it round and with admirable skill makes thin cakes, about the size of a dinner plate, by rapidly slapping the dough from one palm to the other and stretching it across his knees.  This dough manipulation makes quite a noise, especially if several helpers have come to the aid of the <HI REND="italics">madre</HI>
083.sgm:; it reminds one of the early threshing of our countrymen and would wake anyone from a sound sleep who has the least appetite.  When each cake is sufficiently broad and thin it is placed on the <HI REND="italics">kormal</HI>
083.sgm:, a piece of sheet-iron which has been heated on the fire, and is fried in one minute.  Breakfast is over as soon as the last cake is baked; <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
083.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
083.sgm: are the only food of all and everyone feels strengthened for the departure after the frugal meal, and singing cheerful songs the animals are saddled and packed.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>It takes much practice to put the complete Mexican saddle and harness on the horses or to tie the voluminous burden on the mules so that they can go up hill and down dale all day without shaking it off.  The animal seems to suffer neither from the burden nor from the heat of the day, if everything has been arranged with the necessary knowledge and care, and he proceeds on his way as if he were bound for a large meal.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">sudaderas</HI>
083.sgm:, the wool sweat blankets, are first placed on the backs of the bridled riding horses, then the shoulder cushions and heavy saddle are placed on this.  Over these are hung the <HI REND="italics">alforcas</HI>
083.sgm:, the saddle bags, and all is covered with the leather <HI REND="italics">nochilla</HI>
083.sgm: and strapped on with two strong bellystraps.  To protect the moccasined feet of the rider <HI REND="italics">tapaderas</HI>
083.sgm: are placed on the wooden stirrups which weigh from three to five pounds, and the <HI REND="italics">cola de poso</HI>
083.sgm: hangs around the hind quarters of the horse to chase away the <HI REND="italics">banchuca</HI>
083.sgm:, a poisonous fly parasite.  An <HI REND="italics">aparejo</HI>
083.sgm:, weighing twenty pounds, serves as a foundation on the pack animals on which are laid the goods packed in bales covered with hide and bound on by the stout hide thongs.</p><P>Soon after daybreak the procession moves from the camp.  The leader, <HI REND="italics">madrina</HI>
083.sgm:, an old mare wearing a bell and ridden by the <HI REND="italics">madre</HI>
083.sgm:, is followed by the other animals like a mother of numerous children is followed by her flock.  The pack animals, among which ride the <HI REND="italics">cargaderos</HI>
083.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">lazaderos</HI>
083.sgm:, form the first part of the calvalcade.  If a pack becomes disarranged the lasso falls immediately over the animal's neck and the <HI REND="italics">capa de ojo</HI>
083.sgm: over its eyes and in a few minutes the <HI REND="italics">cargadero</HI>
083.sgm: brings it, re-packed, into the column.  The middle of the procession consists of people of the first division and somewhat at a distance those of the third division, make up the end of the procession.  Every one of the servants carries a <HI REND="italics">bota</HI>
083.sgm:, filled with water, a lasso, and an equally indispensable machete.  In all Spanish America the machete is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:the universal weapon, a most dangerous and serviceable tool in the hands of the people.  The father gives it to his small son for a Christmas present and it remains his companion during his whole life, wherever he is called, in joy in sorrow in peace in war, it is his iron bride from which he parts only in death.  It is most dangerous in the hand of the Mexican, who swings it over his opponent at the slightest annoyance and travel holds no fear or terror for him if he has it, carefully sharpened, with his lasso by his side.</p><P>The Mexican caravan, thus arranged and prepared, proceeds towards its distant destination.  Loquacity, curiosity, jolly ideas and good humor are typical of the Mexican and there is much evidence of these characteristics on such a trip where they have leisure, so that one is rarely bored in such a procession.  A <HI REND="italics">coleo</HI>
083.sgm: is held at times, to which the riders challenge each other.  They ride off a short distance from the caravan and the jolliest, wildest confusion reigns while each strives to grasp the tail of the other's horse to dismount him.  This affords opportunity to admire the horsemanship and cunning of the Mexican and there is many a one among them who could be placed side by side with a Ducrow or Bayard.  The <HI REND="italics">arrieros</HI>
083.sgm:, who know no sweeter life than that of traveling in a caravan, furnish the most entertainment.  One of them, a cheerful, jolly Chilean who was probably a <HI REND="italics">sereno</HI>
083.sgm: in his youth, sings a <HI REND="italics">Tonadilla</HI>
083.sgm:, a <HI REND="italics">serenes</HI>
083.sgm: folk song which he sang often while a nightwatchman; the other, a husky <HI REND="italics">barretero</HI>
083.sgm:, who formerly in the <HI REND="italics">cajons</HI>
083.sgm:, the mine corridors, swung a hundred blows on the <HI REND="italics">barrena</HI>
083.sgm: with his heavy sixteen-pound hammer, devotes himself now at ease to the smoking of <HI REND="italics">cigarillos</HI>
083.sgm:.  The sun burns hot in his face but he pushes his sombrero farther down over his fiery eyes and mockingly blows thick clouds of smoke towards the sky.  Two other stragglers are engaged in a violent quarrel; the many <HI REND="italics">carajos</HI>
083.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">carrambas</HI>
083.sgm: which can be heard and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:annoyance they exhibit when they throw away their half-smoked <HI REND="italics">cigarillos</HI>
083.sgm:, gives rise to the thought that they have quarreled about something of grave importance.  They are only trying to decide, however, which is the most beautiful country, Mexico or California, that is: which of these two countries has more feed and water to offer the animals.</p><P>At midday when the sun seemed to try to burn up the world a slumber spirit crept into the caravan, and there was quietness and an inclination exhibited for a siesta.  Frequently a member of the caravan would ride along sound asleep, while his animal, itself half-asleep, would crawl along the edge of a precipice.  " <HI REND="italics">Mulas! mulas! carajo! todos flajo</HI>
083.sgm:!" the <HI REND="italics">arriero's</HI>
083.sgm: wild cry, which urges haste, completely awakens new life in the group and as soon as the noon hour has past no more yawning is evident; quickly then the time lost in drowsing is recovered.  During the first days when <HI REND="italics">cocina, dispensa y granero</HI>
083.sgm: (kitchen, pantry and corn bin) were well stocked, <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
083.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">quesadillas</HI>
083.sgm:, dried cheese cakes, were dispensed at noon and the <HI REND="italics">bota</HI>
083.sgm: was emptied of all its contents which then consisted of <HI REND="italics">pulque</HI>
083.sgm:, the fermented juice of <HI REND="italics">maguey</HI>
083.sgm: fruit, instead of water.</p><P>The time soon comes to think seriously of the goal for the day's journey when the flocks of <HI REND="italics">bandurias</HI>
083.sgm:, plover, begin their evening flight toward the mountains, when the <HI REND="italics">taparcamino</HI>
083.sgm: [road-runners] fluttering on their way block the path of the caravan, when the <HI REND="italics">tuza</HI>
083.sgm:, the prairie dog, sounds his evening wolf howl to the echos at his home, and the dottrel and whip-poor-will are hushed by the mocking bird.  The Mexican members of the caravan believe it is a <HI REND="italics">rara avis in terris</HI>
083.sgm: if no camping site is visible at this time.  He is seldom mistaken because he has received accurate information from the rancheros about the region and has previously determined his stopping places, arranging the hour of departure and pace of the animals accordingly.  He finally arrives <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:at an arroyo, a small brook, near a green <HI REND="italics">patera</HI>
083.sgm:.  When the caravans in the far west of America are fortunate enough to find such places, suitably located at some distance apart, they dare not proceed farther without stopping if they have the well-being of their animals at heart.</p><P>The leaders of the caravan have already ridden on ahead and marked the site of the <HI REND="italics">campo</HI>
083.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">madrina</HI>
083.sgm: arrives and the whole caravan arranges itself about her.  The <HI REND="italics">aparejos</HI>
083.sgm: are removed and set up in a battery-like semi-circle, and behind these all the goods and implements are neatly placed so that everything will be at hand when it is time to commence saddling.  If, after the saddles have been removed, a sore is visible on one of the animals, dried horse manure is rubbed on it, a Mexican cure for all horse injuries which deserves respect when one has observed its astringent effect.  The members of the caravan, wrapped in their <HI REND="italics">ponchos</HI>
083.sgm:, lie on the ground, scattered about or in groups.  One consumes a mush made of cornmeal and water, <HI REND="italics">pinole</HI>
083.sgm:, the other prepares a <HI REND="italics">frangollo</HI>
083.sgm: punch or a corn concoction, <HI REND="italics">atole</HI>
083.sgm:, which he guzzles burning hot, by means of the <HI REND="italics">bomba</HI>
083.sgm:, the silver tea spout, and a third who has neither <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
083.sgm: nor punch, a poor but jolly <HI REND="italics">arriero</HI>
083.sgm:, who from the beginning of the journey depended on the generosity of his countrymen, is able by means of his jokes and pranks to get hold of the <HI REND="italics">bota</HI>
083.sgm: or drinking vessel and empty it to the last drop, expressing his gratitude with " <HI REND="italics">mil gracias</HI>
083.sgm:!"</p><P>In the meantime the fire of the <HI REND="italics">cocineros</HI>
083.sgm: blazes high and sends its smoke column, undisturbed by a breeze, straight up to the rosy evening clouds.  <HI REND="italics">Charque</HI>
083.sgm:, or <HI REND="italics">cecina</HI>
083.sgm:, dried meat, is being cooked with <HI REND="italics">mantequilla</HI>
083.sgm:, thoroughly peppered, and will be served with <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
083.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">tortillas "de horna caliente</HI>
083.sgm: ", very fresh cakes.  The meal is devoured in as little time as it took to prepare <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:it, as the Mexican wastes as little time on this business while traveling as does the American at his daily feeding.</p><P>The Mexican has no night tents and rarely builds a <HI REND="italics">ramada</HI>
083.sgm: with twigs.  He lies down beside his saddle, draws his legs up under him, and pulls up his <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
083.sgm: to cover limbs and head so that it serves both as tent and bed.  If wild animals are near and the interchange of humorous stories keeps many awake for a long time the fire is kept up all night in camp.  If it is "all quiet" in the prairie state the fire is extinguished on retiring and with it all conversation.  On the meadow close to camp, the bell of the <HI REND="italics">madrina</HI>
083.sgm: tinkles constantly, a sign that the animals of the caravan cannot even rest at night but must use this time to satisfy their hunger.  Everything else is still and solemnly quiet.  All for one and one for all is the watchword of night for the Mexican caravan.  this was the watchword which governed my caravan journey of eight days from San Juan to the San Joaquin.  We spent the first night on the slope of one of the chains of hills which border the San Juan plain at the east.  From here we crossed the pastures of the Pachecco Rancho.</p><P>Pachecco, the California owner of this rancho of about twenty hours circumference, played quite a role in the California revolution; he is probably well known in the history of those days.  He, like many of the rancheros whose possessions were confiscated, proved by his patriotic efforts the proverb of the rolling stone.  Now, however, he has again obtained such riches that his name has become proverbial throughout the country.  As we approached his hacienda at the edge of his beautiful meadows we observed a cloud of dust which at midday grew high in the air.  A thundering uproar awoke the echoes of the mountains and the air was shattered by the roaring of many hundreds of cattle milling back and forth in a large corral built of tree trunks.  We climbed the gallery of this to have a better view of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:proceedings.  It was a steer-taming, the yearly <HI REND="italics">recogita</HI>
083.sgm:.  Several vaqueros were busily engaged in lassoing the wildest steers among the bellowing and rumbling crowd while others constantly struck the herd with their hard lassos driving them in a blind rage around and around.  In this way all the animals were driven to the point of exhaustion, then dragged from the corral, one after the other, and after the brand was pressed on with the glowing iron, the vaqueros drove them with wild cries to the pasture.  If marked with the sale sign, the <HI REND="italics">venta</HI>
083.sgm:, they were destined for the market.</p><P>Formerly an ox in California cost four to five dollars, a hide one to two dollars, and the <HI REND="italics">aroba</HI>
083.sgm: of tallow the same.  In the twenty-seven missions over 30,000 head of cattle and over 40,000 <HI REND="italics">arobas</HI>
083.sgm: of tallow were sold yearly.  Now the prices are five to ten times higher while the sum of the animals sold yearly is two-thirds lower.  Since 1836 and the breaking up of the missions the countless herds of cattle have constantly diminished; they have been divided and many also disappeared into the wilderness where they still roam.  The same thing happened to the horses and mules.  In 1842 they numbered about 65,000 and today about half of these are without a master.  When one asks the ranchero what has made his cattle breeding fall off so, he answers: " <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
083.sgm:?"  He does not know and makes no attempt to find out.  To tell the truth, he hardly knows what goes on in his own household.  He finally lays the main blame to thieves and bears and scolds about the many strangers who are everywhere in the land.<ANCHOR ID="n3-4">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-4">Bears are without doubt the greatest reducers of the California cattle herds.  During my stay at Patrocinio del Alisal the Rancho was visited several times at night by one of these beasts of prey who, regardless of several shots we fired at him even the first time, did not allow his visit to be interrupted.  An enormous brown bear lay stretched out in the courtyard of the Pachecco Rancho which had been killed on one of his nightly marauding raids shortly before our arrival.  He had been skinned, the sun was withering his carcass, and according to the opinion of the vaqueros, his fouling corpse was the best possible warning to the rest of his comrades.  Old Pachecco asked us to hunt these cattle thieves during the remainder of our journey through the territory of his Rancho and offered us one of his best oxen or mules for each bear carcass.  That same evening during our rest period we tried our luck six miles distant from the hacienda.  On the banks of a dried up brook we discovered many bear tracks in the sand and other fresh traces, but the reward of our hunt was a glorious stag.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>Leaving the Pachecco Rancho we crossed over the shoulder of the coast range which extends towards the northeast.  Around here the region suddenly takes on a very wild appearance and only the covering of wild oats which decorates all the valleys makes it a little cheerful.  There is a vivid contrast between the dazzling white oat-covered surfaces and the fissured rock walls of old carboniferous limestone.  From cracks and crevice trickles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:a fluid which deposits iron under the influence of sunlight, giving the rocks a dirty, rusty appearance.  This seems to be the mysterious fluid called <HI REND="italics">spiritus metallorum</HI>
083.sgm: by several mineralogists. the mountains spirits prepare it here in such great quantity that it could be completely drained off.</p><P>The path over the mountains is difficult; we found it necessary to climb the mountain on foot and to actually pull up the riding and pack animals by their reins.  After four days we finally reached the plain of San Joaquin.  The only rancho on it where water can be found is Sant' Luis.  From here a region stretches which by its dryness and barrenness warns the members of the caravan to be careful.  The Fata Morgana is often evident here; during the violent sun blaze of the afternoon it shows itself most beautifully in the form of a deceiving picture of a rolling sea.  The ground over which it is produced is very bare, only occasionally covered with moss from which rise visible vapors which spread like waves through the atmosphere.  These mirages seem to be most easily produced near bushes and along a hedge.  This is probably caused by the evaporation of the dampness of the ground.</p><P>The most beautiful sight on the Joaquin plain is the rushing across it of the wild horses and <HI REND="italics">berendos</HI>
083.sgm:.  We saw this several times and certainly enjoyed it.  The <HI REND="italics">berendos</HI>
083.sgm: are usually snow white, not particularly shy, and travel in countless bands.  When seen at some distance through the clear prairie air standing on a prairie knoll they give the appearance of riders drawn up in rank and file.  They look around for a long time and if they see no hostile object in their path they move rapidly forward in a long chain but in perfect order.  They form a live ellipse or parabola, in which the firing of a shot causes wild confusion.  First only chaos is evident, soon, however, a square is formed, followed by two circles, which rapidly change into two parabolic forms which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:gradually merge into each other forming a large circle, meeting again in a hyperbola.  Finally in the distance the entire <HI REND="italics">berendo</HI>
083.sgm: procession becomes visible drawn up in rank and file and the maneuvers begin anew.  Similar varied movements are shown by the bands of <HI REND="italics">bandurias</HI>
083.sgm: when they want to settle down on the plain.  In general there seems to be a law of moving in such mathematical figures among migratory beasts of both sea and land which live together in large groups.  The parabolic form is shown everywhere in nature, in plants and animals, at every point where a dynamic motion is expressing itself or has expressed itself.  It is both the most artificial and natural expression of a significant thought unity which awakens the feeling of the beautiful, and it may have been this which determined the ancient Indians, Greeks and Romans to prophesy the future from the strange migrations of the birds.  It is to be found also in the orbit of the comets which have created so much superstition.  In the bird groups which force their way through the air it can be explained by the fact that each individual bird always strives to maintain that position which affords the most clear view of the whole group and country.  It is known that each animal group has in its migration a so-called leader animal.  Probably this one forms the vertex of the parabola to which all the members of the band direct their attention.</p><P>A bunch of these prairie horses once rushed by our vanguard.  The animals were very excited and must have mistaken our horses for some of their own, as they came so close that they caused a general confusion in the caravan.  Several lassos flew quickly towards the stallions but in vain; snorting and steaming they raced through and disappeared over the plain.  A more beautiful drama could not have been enacted before our eyes.  The Mexican members of our caravan, however, would have admired it more if they could have caught several of these <HI REND="italics">cimarons</HI>
083.sgm: with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:their lassos.  The Mexican only admires the <HI REND="italics">utile cum dulci</HI>
083.sgm:.  The view of the wide plain with its grass blown into waves by the gentle evening breezes so that it resembles a lovely lake would only appear beautiful to the Mexican if it were good feed and an easily accessibleand useful pasture.</p><P>After a while we met four <HI REND="italics">ciboleros</HI>
083.sgm: who, after they had saluted us with the <HI REND="italics">estrivera</HI>
083.sgm:, the hunters' greeting, pursued the fugitives.  The <HI REND="italics">cibolero</HI>
083.sgm: is a most passionate prairie hunter, never turning away from the <HI REND="italics">rastro</HI>
083.sgm:, the trace of the wild prairie dweller, without having satisfied his fondness of the chase.  He returns to his camp usually in the evening with a burden of buffalo and antelope hides or with a captured horse.  He is the true death of the prairie and the only civilized enemy of the Indian who likes to decorate himself with scalps.</p><P>In the midst of the prairie between Sant' Luis and the San Joaquin we found a monument to a sad occurrence of recent days.  There was a grave there, surrounded by all kinds of broken mining implements and not far from it an empty cistern about fifteen feet deep.  Arriving at the San Joaquin in the evening I learned that it was the grave of a man from Tennessee who had suffered a sunstroke while crossing the prairie.  He had also suffered the tortures of thirst and his death was the result of both these misfortunes.  His companions, not being provided with sufficient water either, had made a vain search for it by digging deeper into the cistern.  This I learned from the owners of a ferry which had been hastily built on the other side of the San Joaquin; they had been sailors on the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Elisa</HI>
083.sgm:; the dead man was a passenger on that ship and these mariners were his two companions on the journey across the prairie.  He had been a quiet, contented married man, trying in the best years of his manhood to find a new home and future for his family in a place where they could prosper.  He was uncommonly tall and thin so that the passengers on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:the <HI REND="italics">Sarah Elisa</HI>
083.sgm: nicknamed him "Tall Tennessean".  What an unfortunate fellow, to escape death of starvation only then to succumb to thirst so close to his goal.  He was my companion in misfortune and went on ahead of me with hope of fortune, and now I stepped across his grave.  I sank into the deepest sadness at the sight of this lonely, abandoned resting place, which for the rest of my life will remain fresh in my memory.</p><P>At the San Joaquin we recuperated finally from the weariness of our travels in a cool forest camp, surrounded by marsh cypresses and oak trees which, with their <HI REND="italics">barba vieja</HI>
083.sgm: ( <HI REND="italics">Tillandsia usnacoides</HI>
083.sgm: ), gave the region a very dignified aspect.  The river is quite broad here and rushing.  The valley through which it flows is 560 miles long, fifty miles wide, and everywhere gives evidence of the best agricultural possibilities.  The San Joaquin was already being traveled by a small steamer almost to the mouth of the Merced.  With this the way has been broken for civilization, a new world valley is now open.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>On to the Southern Gold Mines</p><P>THE California gold region resembles an electro-magnetic net which when accidentally touched once, is shaken in its entire circumference.  The northern mines were just discovered and immediately thereafter the southern ones, the opposite pole, were also found.  The Mariposa Mines are the farthest and richest of these.  They were discovered by Mexicans and were occupied by them.  Therefore the caravan which I accompanied proceeded first towards this goal.</p><P>It was a hard ride on the first day from San Joaquin over part marshy, part sandy country.  The region had been disturbed by a band of robbers who had already attacked traveling strangers several times.  Therefore we spurred our horses with the greatest impatience and hurried forward in separate divisions.  That night we arrived happily but exhausted at the Merced River.  Before us lay the sandy desert, behind us the gentle river which extended in many curves along the edge of a forest.  The night was sultry and dark as pitch.  Suddenly we were awakened by a roar like thunder.  It was a stampede.</p><P>Our <HI REND="italics">arrieros</HI>
083.sgm: knew immediately what misfortune had occurred.  The prairie fleet, most of our animals, had fled.  They said immediately that a wild beast must have frightened them away.  There was nothing left to be done but to send after them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:several of the servants on the best of the remaining horses, while all the other members of the caravan armed themselves to prevent a second attack of the suspected enemy.  We spent the whole night tensely expectant but neither our horses nor their disturbers returned.</p><P>A stampede is one of the worst misfortunes which can befall a caravan.  If the animals be once frightened they rush forward, disregarding all obstacles and breaking all restraint, hastening their flight through the night until they fall down on the ground, rigid and convulsed, where they remain until the rising sun allows them, little by little, to recognize their surroundings.  For days they cannot be found and only the <HI REND="italics">arrieros'</HI>
083.sgm: sagacity finally enables their haunt to be discovered.  The thunder they cause is terrible but for the newcomer it is also interesting.  Like the sea storm it begins <HI REND="italics">stacato con furia</HI>
083.sgm: and dissolves <HI REND="italics">tremolando</HI>
083.sgm: with an extended harmony into the quiet of the night.  A new discovery of acoustics is that sound is louder by night than by day; a stampede makes one think that it also has peculiar characteristics in dynamic relationship to night.</p><P>It was not until daybreak that we learned from the returning <HI REND="italics">arrieros</HI>
083.sgm: that our animals were in a corral belonging to some Americans, on the bank of the San Joaquin and that we could only obtain them by force as the Americans had declared themselves to be their owners.  On hearing this we armed ourselves and proceeded to the place where we soon observed that we had now met horse thieves.  As soon, however, as they realized our superior force they flew to the forest leaving behind not only all our animals, but also theirs, which were also probably stolen.  The interior of their log cabin, which was located right at the edge of the San Joaquin, certainly looked like a poacher's arsenal.  There was a great variety of weapons on hand, represented by several models in the best condition.  We left them there but thought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:it best to remove all the cocks from the weapons and these we took along.  After we had ridden for about half an hour we observed a thick cloud of smoke behind us which rose higher and higher.  An <HI REND="italics">Arriero</HI>
083.sgm:, who had probably suffered quite a good deal of annoyance and mishap during the past night while searching for the caravan animals, in a spirit of revenge, had started a fire in the thieves' hut, or as he expressed it, had left his burning <HI REND="italics">cigarillo</HI>
083.sgm: as a souvenir for the <HI REND="italics">Robaderos</HI>
083.sgm:.  At that time the Joaquin Valley was notorious for such horse thieves.  They conducted their business in this manner: On a quiet night they suddenly fell upon the animals of a caravan frightening them and thus causing a stampede; then this was usually attributed to wild animals.</p><P>Our way led us across a valley plain which narrowed at times, along the Merced, to the collar or branching mountains of the Sierra Nevadas.  It was astonishing to see growing on this plain many varieties of aromatic herbs and spicy <HI REND="italics">Labiatae</HI>
083.sgm:.  The sun's rays stimulate the numerous <HI REND="italics">Therabinthacaes</HI>
083.sgm: to exhude their sticky fluid which spreads an unbearable odor, causing everyone a mild headache.  These growths stick to the animals while they feed and their resinous head decorations give them an odd appearance.  Several varieties of heather with coral flowers were found in the sandy places and a kind of water melon was frequently seen growing on slopes and hillocks, which lent a wild aspect to the region.  The juice of these melons is supposed to be drinkable but to me it tasted repugnantly bitter.  Here and there one finds a red oak which, with its reddish bitterapples, the size of a fist, resembles an apple tree.  One is tempted to bite into this lovely apple-like wild fruit which contains the quintessence of that black juice [ink] which can be made sweet, sour or bitter, according to taste, and therefore perhaps, tempts people to use it.</p><P>In the Merced valley we shot an elk whose antlers were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:extraordinarily large and many-branched.  On the bank of the Merced I found the petrified antlers of an antideluvian giant elk which must have been a great deal larger than its descendants as the antlers seemed absolutely proportional when placed on the head of a mule nine hands high.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: Remains of extinct California <HI REND="italics">Fauna</HI>
083.sgm: are found on the San Joaquin plain, especially in the lower river regions and are frequently visible on the river banks and deltas.  They lie in sandy, bluish and reddish clay strata, at a depth of two to fifteen feet, but are never embedded in the older gold deposits.  The gold country must indeed have much importance for the geologists as there is no place where they can make a more fruitful study.  The most dreaded obstacles to visiting the gold region have now been removed as California suffers no more from lack of development of communication and transport of provisions.  Prominent naturalists should now visit this country in the interest of science; they would certainly be rewarded by finding the rarest and most useful treasures.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">On my departure from Europe I intended to offer my services to collect specimens for a Museum Society, but learned indirectly that "this had already been tried once but had proved a failure."  This honored Society thus missed the opportunity of coming into the possession of the largest horns in the world!  Take note of this, you gentlemen, for the next time!</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>We crossed the Merced River at the foot of the first mountains.  Its current is wild here and its clean-washed banks are a lovely sight with their varied colors of <HI REND="italics">syernit, ghru&die;nstein</HI>
083.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">trappfelsarten</HI>
083.sgm:.  This is the beginning of the gold region whose borders had already been much "prospected"<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: before our arrival and which was alive with many gold seekers.  The prospectors thought we were Indians as most of the members of the caravan had taken off their clothes and put them beneath the saddles to protect them from a complete drenching by a heavy <HI REND="italics">aguacero</HI>
083.sgm: which poured down on us at our first step in the mines; thus our nakedness caused the mistaken identity.  Two days later, having crossed a terrain characterized by many isolated slate-rock mountains, we arrived at the Agua Frio and Mariposa mines.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">Prospecting is the first thing the miner does in the mine.  He digs into several levels of earth where he has learned by experience to expect gold, and removing some earth, washes it in his wooden platter or tin pan by alternately dipping the vessel under the water and shaking it.  This process, however, requires practiced manipulation and motions; from this, result specimens of medium-weight gold, the gold having remained in the vessel because of its greater specific weight.  The earth is assayed at 1, 2, 3, etc.  dollars to the <HI REND="italics">poket</HI>
083.sgm:<P>On arriving the cry "Las minas! Las placeres!" sounded as sweet to the Mexican caravan and had been longed for as much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:as mariners on a stormy sea long for the magic sound of "Land" and "Pilot".  It is astonishing to see the miracles performed by such exclamations when they announce the gleaming nearness of the journey's end.  All the sea voyager's hopelessness disappears at the sight of land, even if it be only a strip seen by a stretch of the imagination, just as when the homesick and lovesick person approaches again the object of his affections.  When approaching the coast Neptune's tortures and suffering vanish overboard and at the setting foot on land the traveler forgets the whole torrent of misfortune caused by a long and painful voyage.  "Land! Land!" has the power to suddenly transform an hydrochloricacid, rusty sea-heart, and "We have arrived at our destination" can at once restore new courage, strength and daring in a caravan which has been reduced to a crawling shadow by the painful trip over mountains and sunburnt plains.  In short, these words can make the last days of travel like the first.  Before reaching every journey's end we should cross the River Lethe, burying in it all the unpleasantness of the past, so that we can enjoy to the full our fortunate arrival.  On a trip it is a true saying that the past should be left for the rascals and the fools and as Shakespeare says:  "All's well, that ends well", the <HI REND="italics">Dutchman</HI>
083.sgm: says "jolly".</p><P>The members of the caravan, content and joyous, pressed on down the narrow mountain path into the Mariposa valley, pregnant with gold.  The practiced eye of the leaders, who had ridden on ahead, soon found the place most suitable for dwelling and serving Mammon.  One day of rest and then mining life began.  The three divisions of the prairie fleet were dissolved and the members of the caravan were divided as <HI REND="italics">gambucinos</HI>
083.sgm: under the <HI REND="italics">Majodomos</HI>
083.sgm:.  All dug and washed gold.  In the intervals between the performance of his regular duties the <HI REND="italics">madre</HI>
083.sgm: also had to wash gold; this made his hands clean and white--the <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
083.sgm: certainly tasted better.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>Witfield and I, the flag-captains emeritus, set up our tent above the mining town of Mariposa on an elevated plateau from where we could overlook the whole valley.  It was with much pleasure that we had a taste of mining life, wandered about the region in all directions and gathered the experiences which everyone wishes to take along when he leaves the mines.</p><P>The Mariposa mines occupy a region of about fifty square miles.  The scenery of the main valleys of both the Agua Frio and Mariposa Rivers is magnificent and varied.  Everywhere are visible the greatest variety of crooked and bent, jagged and round shapes and forms.  The eye never rests on unattractive straight lines and square figures but in turn on circles, arcs, ovals and wavy lines and here finds full satisfaction.  Where the main source of the Mariposa rises the succulent grassy mountainsides are joined to shape the valley into a shovel-slaped slope over which the path leads to the plain by way of the many bends in the valley.  Dazzling white quartz crowns are visible on the rounded peaks of the granite and gneiss mountains which because of their resemblance to fortifications are called Quarzburghs.  The morning and evening sun effects that delightful play of light on them which recalls the alpenglow of the Swiss alps.  In some spots the mountain is clothed with low, bluish-green bushes over which tower lonely pines and laurel-oaks, or granite and <HI REND="italics">syrnit</HI>
083.sgm: blocks peer through the thickets like revolutionary monuments of primeval days of the mountain region.  The farther down the valley one goes the more narrow it becomes and it seems finally to close altogether.  Suddenly there is an opening which affords a view above a forest through which the river rushing to the plains far below has cut a deep gorge.  At the left, inclosed between the towering mountains, is a lake on whose banks deserted wigwams and shattered <HI REND="italics">balsas</HI>
083.sgm: or reed boats still give evidence of the dispersed Monas Indians who are characterized by their Roman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:facial features.  The Mariposa, now more abundant in water and with a greater drop in its forest-covered bed, roars by this sorrowful place of abandoned Indian life.  Terrified and with pounding breast one enters the valley which conceals within its towering walls a fearful sublimity and wild beauty where the genius of nature challenges the mind of man and conquers him, and where the feelings overcome the soul of a past all-crushing force which has created this valley and one feels impelled to prophesy for it an equally terrible future.  Basalt pillars and granite obelisks over thirty feet high which support rock spheres ten to twenty feet in diameter are arranged on both banks of the river to form a chain, fantastically reflecting the pale rays of daylight which penetrate the ravine.  The world is "geologically topsy-turvy" here.  The primitive rocks are everywhere and nowhere.  Looking all around for an orderly arrangement in this Plutonic empire of wild natural masses one finds only a great confusion of stone and rock layers which have a disturbing effect but are at the same time stimulating and refreshing.  The gloomy appearance of these rock towers and steep banks, <HI REND="italics">barrancas</HI>
083.sgm:, is increased by a rusty skin, black as iron, with which they are covered.  Wild vines and laurel bushes, which make their presence known by their unbearably strong odor, grow luxuriantly in the cracks and enwreath the ancient gray rock heads of the geologic Plutos and Mercurys, partially animating them.  Here and there the ravine opens up into a rock arena in which alluvial sand, gravel and boulders are heaped up in great quantity.  The main gold deposits are found in these.  The mines in such sand piles or <HI REND="italics">Bars</HI>
083.sgm: are simply called <HI REND="italics">Diggings</HI>
083.sgm: or wet mines, while those on mountain cliffs and in dry valley beds are called <HI REND="italics">Placeres</HI>
083.sgm:.  The gold of the <HI REND="italics">Diggings</HI>
083.sgm: is usually of leaf, grain or dust form, while that of the <HI REND="italics">Placeres</HI>
083.sgm: is generally found in large pieces.  In all the mining region it is found at a depth of from one to one hundred feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:below the granite sediments, and in larger mountains and cliffs in bluish or reddish clay containing iron and with magnetic sand.</p><P>A critical examination of the exterior of the gold shows that the <HI REND="italics">pipedas</HI>
083.sgm: found in the dry mines have an undamaged original form, while the gold in the wet mines has been misshapen.  Their primitive form is frequently very odd and quaint; it is crystalline dendritic, or shows all those characteristics which are familiar in metal pieces poured in water.  It seems as if Nature had made her prototypes in it.  The gold, without doubt, must have condensed during its sublimative creation in water; it must have reached the upper crust of the earth when this was still covered with water.  The gold in the hypogene rocks effected by Plutonic forces, have cropped out in an erruption.  Metamorphic and Plutonic stones, which have usually been translocated, are found to be penetrated by gold veins.  These like the <HI REND="italics">pipedas</HI>
083.sgm: lying loose in the older deposits, seem not to have suffered any damage which could not be the case if "the cursed rubbish room of the new world creation" had not been filled at the same time with an element, in which the eruptive stones could move with less violence.  Thus the gold might be called a souvenir of a California flood which took place before its birth.  This is further proved by the evident signs of a Neptunian opening in the Golden Gate of the Bay of San Francisco.  The towering hollowed-out rock masses of the river valleys, discolored by precipitation, contain iron, and gold dirt is to be found in the highest cracks and crevices of these.  Only a great flood could have mixed the heavy metal with the granite sediments and pushed these to the depths of the oldest mountains, frequently even stirring them around, or could have sprayed on to the peaks of the mountains and into the cracks in the rock walls the diluvium which contains gold.  It must have been a powerful flood which could force its way through the coast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:range and finally distribute far over valley and plain the gold produced in the mountains.</p><P>Washed down from mountains and cliffs during the rainy periods of years the dirt containing gold was occasionally brought by the rushing mountain brooks into the streams of the far plains.  Here, since the disappearance of the great floods, new sediments were put on top of the old firm deposits.  At the Sacramento River for instance, signs of more recent deposits containing gold are found up to a depth of thirty feet, in places which are exposed to yearly overflows.  If the scale to measure the Nile River sediments is used here, namely three and one-third inches of sediment thickness for a century, this earth layer on the Sacramento thirty feet high, would prove to be 10,800 years old.  The approximate time can be obtained, according to this, of the complete disappearance of the California flood, the transformation into an ocean gulf of the sweet-water lake near San Francisco, discovered by pearl seekers in 1770, or the opening of the Golden Gate.</p><P>Such thoughts might lead one still farther, and present the gold as a souvenir metal of creation.  A step in the empire of geologic mysteries has always a magnetic effect on our deficient striving for truth, and possesses as great charm for the thinker as that which is revealed in broad daylight.</p><P>The eye, returning to the mining valley from such wandering, lights pleasantly on the figures found there.  Gold seekers of all nations and of all social classes are working, singly and in groups, on the canyons, on the slopes and along the river.  They work calmly and confidently behind and below the threatening massive rocks and disregard the imminent danger.  Only the gold in the depths is their Lorelei.  The miner's clothing is simple and adapted to the wild life; his tools, with which he has accustomed himself to tirelessly examine the earth from early morning until late at night, are simple.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>The tools of the miner have passed through their own period of history.  In the beginning the industrious gold-seeker obtained with only shovel and pan the gold which was in the upper earth layers or almost on the surface.  When gold was first discovered at a greater depth he used a gold cradle, the <HI REND="italics">Roker</HI>
083.sgm: [Rocker] which soon developed many forms.  Dirt containing less gold but which, however, was abundant, was worked by the <HI REND="italics">Long Tom</HI>
083.sgm:, a wooden stationary gutter through which the earth was washed down by running water into a container.  The deposit passed from there into the <HI REND="italics">Rocker</HI>
083.sgm:.  The quicksilver machine was needed, for the earth hastily washed once by the first miners could only be reclaimed with quicksilver, and as soon as quartz containing gold was discovered, steam quartz mills were used by the larger companies.</p><P>The Americans and foreigners still find the <HI REND="italics">Roker</HI>
083.sgm: the most suitable of all the many hand machines and the Mexicans still mostly use their universal implements; these mining heroes still go about outfitted with <HI REND="italics">baretta, macheta, fatra and cucharra</HI>
083.sgm:, the horn spoon, as if to consume a golden banquet.  These <HI REND="italics">Bucaderos</HI>
083.sgm:, accustomed from their earliest youth to search for metals, are able to find the places containing most gold; their <HI REND="italics">baretta</HI>
083.sgm: is like a perfect wishing wand.  They find more pleasure in mining life than do the others, are always carefree, happy and joyous without a thought of the morrow, and are the immediate focuses of interest for the observers of mining life.  If they are working for someone they hurry to put that sum in their master's hands with which he has planned to leave the mines, so that perhaps, if he be a Mexican, he can hurry home to a <HI REND="italics">pronunciamento</HI>
083.sgm:, weighted down with conceit as much as with gold, like the Britons, nicknamed Nabobs, who after becoming wealthy in the East Indies, returned to England and tried to force their way at any price into Parliament.  If, however, they are working for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:themselves they are seldom seen working in company as their greed and selfishness would soon lead to quarrels, but they do live together in communal camps.  They are much addicted to gambling and all kinds of light living.  The gold gives no pleasure to the Mexicans unless they can spend it.  Possessing this knowledge one of their countrymen quickly erects a <HI REND="italics">tienda</HI>
083.sgm: near such miners and in this tent the gold soon obtains pleasurable value.  A group of chorus girls, from the twelve year old <HI REND="italics">muchacha</HI>
083.sgm: to the <HI REND="italics">matron</HI>
083.sgm: of the <HI REND="italics">tienda</HI>
083.sgm:, strive to brighten the wild life of the <HI REND="italics">paisanos</HI>
083.sgm:.  Guitars are strummed among them from morning until late at night.  There is dancing and the bacchanalian revelry ends with a night scene which would cause disgust if the curtain were lifted from it.  One should, however, occasionally look down into such depths so as to recognize one's own strength or to learn to know oneself.  One of the weaknesses of our nature is to pattern ourselves according to others.  Often enough, one of these "Hombres" can be seen staggering about giddily while saying to his friend, "Buen amigo! tengo gana de guttar una gutta de aguardiente?"<ANCHOR ID="n4-3">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: Such gutturals are gloriously suited to the thick tongue of the drunken Mexican!  Italian has been called the language of love, Spanish is that of passion and drunkeness.  And often enough one sees such an "Amigo" get into a quarrel with another because he could not make himself understood.  The <HI REND="italics">macheta</HI>
083.sgm: is used for fencing after they have tied themselves together at arm's length with a rope around their bodies.  With the left hand they try to pull the hat of the opponent down over his face while the right hand, quick as lightning, deals the <HI REND="italics">machetasso</HI>
083.sgm:, the knife thrust.  Perpendicular wounds are forbidden in such duels; the Mexican aims only for cuts because in his native country these are not punished by law.  When blood flows in streams full satisfaction has been given.  A drink of <HI REND="italics">onze</HI>
083.sgm: serves as a reconcilation.  The barbaric character of these duels is evident in all America.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<HI REND="italics">machete</HI>
083.sgm: of the native of Spanish American never satisfies him by cutting deep enough into his opponent's face while the terrible " <HI REND="italics">gangin</HI>
083.sgm: " [gouging] the putting out of the eyes, is used by the North-Americans in their boxing matches which occur daily and from the most trivial causes in every gathering of people.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-3">[Erroneously marked 2 on page 96.]  Good friend!  I would like to drink a drop of brandy.  <HI REND="italics">Aguarliente</HI>
083.sgm: from <HI REND="italics">Agua-ardiente</HI>
083.sgm: (distilled water) is also called "Onze" because of the eleven ( <HI REND="italics">onze</HI>
083.sgm:<P>In California such encounters had the most terrible combinations and were extremely widespread.  Here, where the fear of robber bands and individuals escaped from the <HI REND="italics">bagno</HI>
083.sgm: was added to the necessity of defense against the hostile Indians and the wild beasts, the carrying of weapons was as customary as the carrying of a pocket watch.  When such tools of bravery degenerated into vain playthings and were only rarely used for defense it is not surprising that they were often misused in the most shocking and careless way.  The colt's revolver and the bowie knife played roles which might make up a characteristic Appendix to the history of the gold country only mentioning deeds performed by these hellish implements in the presence of individual eyewitnesses.  Here is only one instance of the many presented to one of the first California juries.  In this case the delinquent was dismissed with both "guilty" and "not guilty" as the verdict.  A miner asked his rival to show him his watch so that he could see the time.  Without further ado the latter pulled his "six-shooter" and shot him dead.  It was murder, but the court could not pass sentence as it could not be proved that the murdered man had not had rapacious or criminal intentions.  Asking for the time was a highly suspicious and dangerous question in California as it contained an indirect challenge for life or death.</p><P>The Mexicans are disliked and almost hated by the other miners because of their frequent quarrels as well as their customary disturbing, dizzy life.  They are shunned or crowded out if their presence cannot be otherwise avoided.  That is why <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:observation.  His mind is at rest, at rest like Nature which surrounds him.  Rest creates goodness, and this again creates contentment.  If for once, his day's work brings no reward the hope of good fortune does not leave him.  He is satisfied with the little the day has brought and works with doubled industry on the morrow.  If he is often disappointed he learns to be patient.  Patience is a talent which can be easily acquired only in quiet.  The miner, much tried by fate, learns self-denial and endurance.  Since the discovery of both large gold countries, mining has been the chosen occupation or profession of a great number of people and as such it may be regarded as a school which will produce only good results for the human race.</p><P>In the mines, resignation and exuberance are found side by side.  Both would cause daily suicide were it not that a diverse fate, with all its phases, is met with in the accepted daily life.  Here fate plays tricks; cares, dangers and tortures of the wild life are present in sufficient numbers to mediate resignation and exuberance.  Accidents, of which there are many in the mines, throw men down from the heights of fortune or determine their ascent; accidents either lead men to calm and privacy or disturb them.  Everything in the mines is accidental but a man with a strong will can still find elbow-room and though he be unable to move mountains he can avoid them.</p><P>A miner's life is hard enough.  He has heard that far away in the mountains new gold mines have been discovered.  The rumors of their riches are like fairy tales.  Determined to go there he packs his belongings with accustomed ease and hurries off.  He encounters the steepest mountains, the deepest valleys, rocky, rushing rivers, and insufficient feed for his pack or riding animals; but he soon surmounts all obstacles.  Frequently courage and perseverance seem about to desert him when he meets with some great mishap but usually he climbs out unaided from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:deepest traps.  He cannot go to rest at nightfall if he has not found a suitable camp with feed and water for his animals.  He travels on until he has found the camp where he sinks down exhausted and weak.  He must use his provisions sparingly as his goal is uncertain; his destination being the place where he finds the most gold.  If he loses the trail in the dense forests or on the bare rocks the sun or his instincts guide him.  If he falls from a cliff and lies crushed in the depths no one looks for his bones; all that is known of him is that he has left and not returned.</p><P>But he finally does arrive at his destination.  This is the place where rumor has it there is much gold and other miners are here already.  The rumors are often true, the gold is being ladled from the depths; but frequently all is false, not even the color of gold or a trace of gold can be found.  The gold seeker pushes on deeper into the mountains or, deceived, he undergoes the same exertions to return to his old mining place.  But here he finds newcomers and the ground which he has left recently and in which he thought he would dig again is now in the possession of another who had the right to take possession just twenty-four hours after the departure of the former owner.<ANCHOR ID="n4-4">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: The miner is again disappointed.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-4">Every miner has the right to "claim" twenty square feet of earth, which remains his property as long as he works in it.  No other person can set foot in his mine if tools are in it and the Claimer has not stopped work in it for more than twenty-four hours.  According to state law every miner who is not an American citizen is supposed to pay a small tax, but it is to the credit of the state that this law has never been enforced.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The companies seeking gold also experience many mishaps.  A river is forced into an artificial bed so that the gold in the old bed may be removed.  This work takes years but the results are wonderful.  Wonderful?  Yes!  If the work is not as far advanced as had been planned, at the beginning of winter a single rainy night can destroy the work of several hundred human hands and of a whole year and in a moment wipe out visions of fortune.  This has happened to many a "Dam Company".  The individual in such enterprises pays dearly for his share; he works; he feeds himself; by his words and deeds he encourages others to work; daily he stands in water, exposed to the sun's blaze, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:bathed in sweat.  His health ruined, he hopes and prays, and when the work is almost completed the swollen river overflows the dam so that the work must either begin again or be "damned" by the afflicted company.<ANCHOR ID="n4-5">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: In spite of these bitter experiences such a method of gold seeking is becoming more and more common.  The gold thirst forces man to a Danai&die;d labor which enables him to forget himself while he helps both himself and others.  As a rule, self-control is attained only by harsh experience.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-5">Damning is most customary in America.  The American damns everything that causes him the slightest annoyance.  Among these Goddams-sons one could learn to curse like Gresset's traveling parrot.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The quartz mills' companies have also suffered similar misfortunes.  When a quartz vein is found to be rich it is dug out with much effort and expense and the stone is crushed.  The expensive machine is meanwhile brought to the place.  However, not infrequently, one of its cast-iron parts is broken during the difficult transport over the mountains.  Months pass until it can be replaced.  Experience has taught that the deeper one digs in the vein the richer it becomes.  Yet when the machine is finally set up and in order the discovery is probably made that the quartz vein, not having been sufficiently prospected, contains no more gold in its depths.  Hopes are disappointed and time and money expenditures are great.<ANCHOR ID="n4-6">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: During my stay in the Mariposa Valley an English company operated such a quartz mill near the tent town where a great quartz vein existed in the diluvium.  The business was very profitable.  During the following year the greater portion of the mining population departed.  The Indians returned to their native heath and destroyed and butchered all that seemed foreign or unaccustomed.  The "fiery mountain eater", the quartz mill, was naturally not spared.  Military intervention again freed the valley of its wild inhabitants and the discovery of new quartz veins and of the first California diamonds drew new adventurers to this rich mining valley.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-6">The fortunate or unfortunate outcome of such an enterprise guides the judgement of the general public.  The little confidence inspired by the larger mining speculations, for which stock companies also began to be formed in Europe, had no foundation and was based solely on a few unfortunate instances.  California's golden days, the gold region known today being 600 miles long and forty-five to sixty miles wide, will not begin in all its glory until more technical exploitation of gold becomes native to the country.  An exhaustion of the gold mines has been rumored.  To calculate this in advance is impossible.  Although the entire gold country had been passed once through the pan the work would have to be repeated several times until the land could be damned in the meaning of the disappointed miner.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>At the time of the rapid decrease in population I also left Mariposa Valley.  The clanking of many gold cradles was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:suddenly followed by desolate quiet.  Only in hidden places was the oft repeated cry "Sant' Antonio!" heard at sunrise and sunset from the lips of a superstitious Mexican who hoped by entreaty to obtain his fortune from this patron.  And occasionally the shrill sound of the quartz mill was heard in the lonely valley and awakened the echoes of the mountains.  The valley looked like a cemetery.  Everywhere deep scars marked the place where this one or that had found or buried his fortune.  On all sides piles of earth, like burial mounds, were visible on which broken or discarded tools formed crosses or monuments.  The wild animals of the mountains approached and made night even more terrible in the deserted valley.</p><P>"Alisal", who had borne a droll little foal as a satellite, now stood in our midst packed and ready.  Thoughtful, Witfield and I mounted and departed from this ominous place which now is furrowed only by the plow.</p><P>The friend of nature becomes easily accustomed to much roaming in a strange land and wandering soon comes to be his aim in life.  He is driven on and on; a long stay makes him feel cramped and he bemoans the day on which he has not wandered.  He only feels that he has roamed sufficiently and is able to make a longer stay after he knows the country well enough to begin planning a trip in another latitude.  Wanderlust is also deep rooted in the gold seeker.  Frequently this wanderlust is inspired by seeking regions richer in gold, but also it is often a secret longing for new scenery, a change of scene and a change from the monotony of daily life.  This fact shows itself most clearly in nature where the charm of abundant variety is plainly evident to man as soon as his eye becomes a little practiced.  What can stimulate our longing and can charm our curiosity more than a chain of mountains towering in the pure heavenly air on the far horizon, on which the eye rests and beyond which we imagine a new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:charming world?  The influence of the spirit of free nature on the power of presentiment and the intimate connection of her charm with the longing of the heart are shown by the migrations every summer of the natives of America and the unimpeded force of the change of seasons of which the migratory animals have a presentiment.  The return to the abandoned place, as found in a feeling creature, is also determined by nature.  Who has not been driven to other countries and valleys without sharing the feeling of the little Swiss boy who, in spite of all pleasure which the new places and things gave him said in his dialect with a sigh, "But I want to go back to my cows and my mountains!"...</p><P>This habitual wandering in the gold country brings about recurring meetings.  If one has an acquaintance in the mines one is certain to meet him again in one's travels and his unexpected appearance awakes great joy.  In the California gold mountains the Wandering Jew would never have to travel without a companion.  I even think I met him once, but, dear Reader, that is my own affair.</p><P>The tourist makes another surprising observation while traveling through this gold country.  At times he comes to a scene which seems familiar to him.  He seems to recognize the landscape, the outlines, all the individual objects.  He is astonished, he ponders, and the more he thinks about it the more familiar it seems.  He is ready to swear that he has been here once before and feels he can describe with tolerable precision the scenery beyond the foreground.  This is one of the many psychological effects which often takes hold of the sensitive mind while traveling and which easily leads to deep reflection.  Such scenes are usually charming, friendly, pleasant fields or meadows, green pastures whose measured arrangement of small hills and valleys must really be said to have an aesthetic beauty.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>One day arriving between the Merced and Stanislaus rivers, after my departure from the Mariposa mines, I had such a surprise.  The plain is dotted everywhere here with these small grass-covered hills--like sea waves paralyzed while forming.  The <HI REND="italics">Rolling Prairie</HI>
083.sgm: is refreshed by springs and brooklets and lacks nothing for a fitting comparison with any of the most beautiful scenes in Gessner's <HI REND="italics">Idylls</HI>
083.sgm:.</p><P>My traveling companion and I ate our lunch in a grassy dale and climbed one of the nearest hills to watch a herd of deer which had become frightened at our arrival.  The glorious landscape which surprised me so deeply lay before me.  My desire for hunting vanished and I was overcome by astonishment and admiration.  I called my friend to my side; the scene was not one with which he was familiar although I seemed to know it all from the blue sky above to each individual flower in the grass.  And yet in my whole life I had never seen even a similar view!  I succumbed to my blissful sensations and sketched the landscape in my album.  It seems there are memories awakened by the sight of nature which when projected from the infinite space and time of the past thrill us more wonderfully than occurrences of our daily life or of our conscious being.</p><P>I lingered in this spot for about a half hour when suddenly a German song was wafted from behind the hills which were arranged to look like stage scenery.  "That must be a wandering miner," I thought as I listened with an increased feeling of bliss to his song, a German song in these strange, lonely valleys in which the sound of human voice had perhaps never before been heard.  It was the simple touching melody of the "Drei Burschen"; the song of freedom and of love, the modest alpen flower among German songs whose glowing color proclaims the grandeur of its home.  It was the pious good song, the German song with blond hair and blue eyes, the song of German longing, of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:German love and of German blond moonlight; it is a prayer of child-hood days which can make cold hearts glow and which is heard everywhere where voices are lifted joyously in song.  No matter where I was this song could make me homesick for the days when I was innocent and happy, it was a sword sheathed in white roses and cypress; it was the alpen-horn sending forth from poetic heights into the wide world its sad notes which make all who hear heartsick with longing for their mountains and all must join in the deeply emotional words:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I love you now, I loved you ever<LB>I shall cease to love you never<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>The song died out.  A slim rider mounted on a black pony and followed by a small procession of mounted and packed mules came forward from between the hills.  The idyllic scene was now populated.  I went to meet the jolly singing miner calling out a German "Willkommen" to him.  The rider dismounted, pressed my hand and on looking deep, deep into his sunburnt face I recognized a fraternity brother with whom I had sung many a German song.  The exchange of sweet memories lasted until the sun was high in the heavens, reminding us of the still distant goal of our day's journey and warning us that we must part.  This meeting made such a deep impression because it occurred at a time when my mood was receptive and my stimulated imagination so flexible that it painted the extraordinary part of the event in even more charming colors.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Rolling-Prairie</HI>
083.sgm: which we crossed towards the north showed its most beautiful summer dress of anemones, <HI REND="italics">bellis perenneis</HI>
083.sgm:, and a completeness of plant life which vividly recalls the carpet of my native meadows.  The daisy is not a native of eastern America but here it pleases the eye at every step, and it is found in all Upper California.  The anemones are the wind roses of the prairie and are found in the grass in the places most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:open to the wind.  How odd!  Like certain poetic girls the anemones seem destined to bloom and to flourish while defying wind and storms and then, hardly having completed their full development, to fade.  To cool hot breath in the soft prairie breezes it is only necessary to lie down in a bed of anemones.  But the rattlesnake and the pitch black tarantula, as big as your fist, infest these flower decked meadows.  These poisonous prairie dwellers are put there to startle the pleasant dreams of the charmed wanderer and to warn him, but they are also there to poison each other's life and to kill each other.</p><P>It is not a rare sight to see a rattlesnake quietly lying in wait in the sunshine for its enemy, the tarantula, a horrible animal with extended legs and bloodshot eyes, which is lying about a pace away.  The tarantula seems to have sensed the nearness of its enemy for it is prepared for the attack, and is raging mad with white foam gushing between its teeth and dribbling down its beard.  The rattlesnake attempts an attack.  It coils itself up tight and with an elastic jump springs at the tarantula.  But the aim is wrong, and before the snake has time to coil itself again the tarantula jumps on its neck and with one bite the snake is conquered, paralyzed by the spider poison.  Had the snake been victorious it would have sucked the last drop of juice from the spider.  When the libidinous rest of the rattlesnake is disturbed by approaching footsteps it always rattles as a warning, it only sinks its poisonous teeth in the flesh of its disturber without warning if it is stepped on.  It is easy to paralyze it with the blow of a stick; I killed one once with the ramrod of my hunting gun.  It was a glorious specimen from which I took off fourteen rattles.  The fire light at night in camp is enough protection from these poisonous animals.  A mule, if allowed to graze nearby, will never suffer a tarantula to exist near camp; he spies it and crushes the horrible pest.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Rolling Prairies</HI>
083.sgm: of the southern mines extend from the Merced River to the Sacramento and lose themselves in the west towards the plain of the San Joaquin.  They include some of the most beautiful parts of the country.  Near the tributary rivers of the San Joaquin which come from the east the hills flatten out, becoming smaller and smaller, until they become merely heaps of all kinds of gravel, from one to ten feet high, in which lovely quartz crystals and opals are occasionally found.</p><P>Beyond this river the country is less lonely and empty; between the rivers American farm buildings and cattle herds are visible.  The road itself is good and looks like a macadamized street.  The sun gave it this appearance by drying the dust in the wagon tracks of the many North American emigrant groups which passed here and which was then blown away by the wind.  The many bumps in the road disappeared after awhile and now the trip through the California mines is over roads which, at times, seem to have been in existence for more than half a century.  Here and there is a corn or potato field, fore-runners of the agriculture for which this fruitful region seems destined.  Near the river the growth of the field is accomplished by irrigation.  The water is lifted from the river by a large water-wheel and poured into small ditches.  This has proved to be the best way to carry on gardening on the river plains.  All garden vegetables grow very large and are very tasty as the continual sunshine favors their growth.  I have never seen larger bulb plants or a greater variety of vegetables than are found in California.  There seems to be no potato rot here; they ripen in summer so that the rainy period with its frosty nights never overtakes the potato harvest and there is no danger of this fruit ever suffering from disease.  All native and other flowers flourish here and are usually picked twice a year.  Bee-keeping is also carried on extensively in California; wild bee swarms are found on all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:prairies and at hot midday in quiet places their humming can be plainly heard.  The bee does not seem to be a "European fly"; they exist here in such great numbers that they seem to be a native insect.</p><P>We visited several mining regions along the Towalumne, Stanislaus and Calaveras rivers.  The scenery here is more idyllic than wild.  The rapidly growing towns give a pleasant aspect to the valleys which, very dry in summer, are enclosed by low mountains.  Regular alpen flower beds of flowers and ferns decorate the craggy mountain peaks over which the colorful butterfly flits, giving evidence of the wild climate in which it spends its joyous sweet days.  The industrious miner crawls in and out of the dark shafts of his <HI REND="italics">cajote</HI>
083.sgm: mine at the foot of these mountains bringing his golden treasures to light.  When seen from a distance these <HI REND="italics">cajote</HI>
083.sgm: mines, typical of only the southern mines, resemble animated bee hives.</p><P>These mountains on the Calaveras are famous for several enormous natural caves which can be entered through a narrow opening at the top.  They contain many bones, some fossilized, of four-footed animals and are richly decorated with stalactites and crystals giving an appearance of a fairy crystal palace.  The music made by the tapping of an iron hammer on these crystals, one to two feet long, also makes a magical impression on the visitor.  At first it sounds like the jingle of bells, and then like the soft melancholy tones of an Acolian harp.  The miners have bestowed peculiar names on such caves and the ingenious Americans are quick to fit them with fables of mystery and stories of adventure.  Names like Imperial Chamber, Devil's Cave, Witches' Den, and Baker's Oven have already been bestowed.<ANCHOR ID="n4-7">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: The Imperial Chamber, not far from the Valcano Bar, resembles the German Kiefha&die;user in which Barbarossa sleeps hidden, as the poet says "for as long as the old ravens will fly there."  In the middle of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:crystal room is a stalactite marble table on a grotesque pedestal and the enchanted Emperor, made of the same material, bends over it with his head propped on his hands and his beard grown through the table-top.  Thus Nature furnishes the material for legends and not infrequently for later historical researches.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-7">The hellish adversary and assailer is supposed to have been in the Baker's Oven and a ridiculous anecdote is circulated about this retired hero.  The Devil's Cave, so named because at times warm vapors and mephitic gases gather there, is supposed to resemble a baker's oven because at first its heat is bearable and then it gradually becomes hot.  In the Baker's Oven overpowering vapors also frequently rise.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>Before the discovery of the mines these valleys were inhabited by many bands of Indians who stubbornly opposed the entrance of the white people.  Without military interference the Indians could hardly have been forced to relinquish their lovely territory.  Later the government of California through her "Indian Commissioners" made treaties with the Indians of several of the mining regions.  They were given lands, better habitations were built for them and at regular intervals were provided with clothing, tools and provisions.  Thus most of the Indian tribes became reconciled with the whites and gradually came to discard their more crude customs.  Even in the most wild and distant regions, like that of the <HI REND="italics">Scotsh</HI>
083.sgm: Valley in northern California, they are peaceful now and carry on agriculture and cattle raising in the territory apportioned them.  The most effective work in the converting of the California Indians was that of first giving them some conception of civilization.  That is the way by which the twenty-seven missions were able to exact obedience from 22,000 Indian proselytes and use them for agriculture.  The Indians still remember those times of conversion, which must have been effective in spite of their return to a savage state, otherwise the present work of reconciliation in California would surely be more difficult.</p><P>The first miners on the Towalumne in late 1849 were Mr. Rippstein, a Swiss gentleman; Don Luis, a Frenchman; and Robinson, an American.  The first told me the following:</p><P>"Driven by adverse fate, a desire to make new discoveries, and the restlessness of the first gold fever days, I went with my two friends, Don Luis and Robinson, to prospect the Stanislaus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:I pressed the trigger and my shot went amiss.  A scar remained as a life-long souvenir.</p><P>I looked around for my companions.  Don Luis had disappeared.  Robinson was on his knees, holding up in his left hand the woolen blanket as a shield and fighting desperately with the most daring of the enemy.  He had thrust his hunting knife deep into the breast of his wild adversary.  With a raging death cry the latter sank down and the other Indians--I could never understand whether because of fear or cowardice--retired from the place of battle for few minutes.  'Flee!  Flee!' shouted Robinson to me, while he disappeared sideways into the thicket.  With one jump I gained a protecting boulder behind which I cowered.  The <HI REND="italics">Warwhoop</HI>
083.sgm: was repeated several times.  Then the Indians saw that we had fled, and singing a song of victory they passed single file in a long row close by my hiding place.</p><P>As soon as the last of the line passed me I jumped up and zig-zagged through the little wood until I reached its edge, no, until I fell down exhausted.  A cloudburst brought me back to consciousness.  With renewed strength I hurried through the night and at sunrise arrived in a small valley in which I recognized several tents where I had been with friends the day before.  In one of these I woke three hours later from violent delirium and learned from several miners who were standing around me that they had picked me up in an unconscious condition.  My clothes were torn and hands and face were covered with scratches and blood.  Robinson arrived in the afternoon in a similar pitiful condition.  Not far from the mining valley we found Don Luis drawing his last breath.  He had crawled there on his hands and knees and died in terrible pain from the arrow wounds.  This event was revenged.  Eight days later the united miners fell upon two Indian settlements on the Towalumne and burnt them.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:From this time on no Towalumne Indian was seen again in the vicinity of a white miner's dwelling."</p><P>Most of the American mining towns have been built on the sites of the burnt-off Indian settlements.  Sonora, James-Town, Mokolumne Hill and Hangtown are the best known of those in the southern mines.  They were built and named by chance, Hangtown being one of the most significant examples of this.  It was named from a deed which was as horrible as the name is barbarous.  <HI REND="italics">Nomen et omen</HI>
083.sgm:.  The oak still stands in the center of the town which served as a gallows for several criminals who fell into the hands of the excited mob.  This is Uncle Sam's<ANCHOR ID="n4-8">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: fashion; wherever he goes he leaves pasted in his footsteps the names of his adventurous deeds.  The names Syracus or Bethlehem may be frequently found in the United States right next to a town with a barbarous name.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-8">[Erroneously marked 5 on page 112.]  Uncle Sam, used more frequently than "brother John" as a nickname for the United States and taken from the initial letters, U.S.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>Crossing a wide plain covered with oak forests one approaches the land town, Stockton.  These forests resemble artificially planted avenues as there is no underbrush and the trees are placed at fairly regular intervals.  No young trees grow because the acorns seem to be the favorite food of the prairie animals and are immediately devoured by them.  The age of these forests must be greater than that of the animals and the enormous size of the trees and their thick branches show how ancient they must be.  This is the resort of the coyotes or prairie wolves and of the owls ( <HI REND="italics">Stryx cunicularia</HI>
083.sgm: ), the colonists of the prairie, who live with them.  These cave dwelling animals of the marmot class disturb the traveler and the farmer more by their horrible howling than by their rapacity.  These wolves are not dangerous, but they are as sly as the wolves in sheep's clothing of my native land, who snap up every opportunity to attack the peaceful humans--a trait held in common with dogs.</p><P>We had bidden farewell to the southern mines and finally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:arrived in Stockton, my companion's destination.  Stockton is the third largest city of the country and is the main center of communication between San Francisco and the southern mines.  The city was founded in 1849 by a German named Weber and grew rapidly in spite of its unhealthy marshy site.  To the north it is connected with <HI REND="italics">Sacramentocity</HI>
083.sgm: by a road and to the south with San Jose, which is famous for its rich quicksilver mines.  These are in the coast range and are probably the richest in the world.  The metal is found under layers of red and yellow cinnabar.  The richest Spanish cinnabar contains ten per cent; cinnabar of one per cent can be used effectively.  The California red cinnabar contains thirty-eight to forty per cent quicksilver and the yellow fifteen to twenty per cent.  The mines of San Jose and the newer ones of Santa Barbara are mostly in the hands of English companies who reduce great masses of mineral every year in a simple but not very economic way.  In the first year of the gold discovery a pound of quicksilver cost six dollars, today it costs half a dollar.  This price reduction made it much easier to obtain gold from the quartz rocks.</p><P>Nature has been very generous in California in furnishing the means with which man with only a little art can obtain more of her treasures.  In the coast range enormous deposits of lead, asphalt and sulphur are found near the lagoon, fifty to sixty miles long, north of Sacramento and about sixty miles distant from <HI REND="italics">San Bai</HI>
083.sgm:.  They have not been exploited but the value which they have for the country is evident.  California, whose coat of arms should be the horn of plenty, has been destined by Nature to become a great land of industry.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>V</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>On to San Francisco</p><P>THE wilderness scatters life, cities concentrate life.  This is also true of our inner life.  Out of doors we awake from "oblivion and rest" and all the power of fancy and feeling is loosed.  In the more narrow confines of human society we sink back into ourselves and its great charm which, however, is widely distributed can entice us only for a short time.  Everywhere an opposing genie blocks our senses with the cry "To here and no farther"; this is Society's intrinsic law of order found everywhere, even governing the spiritual mood.  This genie floats toward us when we barely approach a city.  Our hearts which have become expanded with impressions of nature gradually shrink but, nevertheless, we become the more self-assured.</p><P>I was filled with new sensations and thoughts as I approached the coast city, San Francisco, on a steamboat after abandoning my wild life and leaving Stockton.  The first sight again of a steamboat with its colorful groups of passengers caused my first revulsion of feeling.  Once again I looked far into the distance at the Sierra Nevada's snow-clad peaks towering in the infinite where the rose-colored sun set on the last day of my first mine pilgrimage.  Then my eye glided past dark Monte Diabolo of the coast range to the shores of the bay before us, discovered by pearl-seekers and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:in 1767 [1769] named by the Franciscans for their patron saint, and it seemed as if the events of recent days had occurred years before.  I had renounced the beautiful mountains and the glorious slopes and the more I breathed the fresh sea air which blew across to us from the harbor city, the more I longed for the comforts of civilization.</p><P>At last it lay before me.  The steamer landed and the power of curiosity lifted me right into the midst of the activity of the freshly blooming "Queen of the West."  The bizarre, animated activity of the streets, the chaotic mixed population and the odd appearance of this wooden city surprised me almost as much as if I were a redskin who had lived all his life in the wilderness.</p><P>San Francisco had the appearance of an old city.  The year previous it was but a tent-covered site where the most daring adventures took place.  In 1847 it was practically in its original state, except for a poor sorrowful mission where, besides the redskins swarming in untrammeled freedom, only the Old Californians, miserably clothed and mostly barefooted, herded their goats or drowsed in the sun before their own or their neighbors' adobe huts.  The do-nothing spirit was so deep-rooted in the natives that they did not think about the greater future of the place.  Today there is a city here of 60,000 souls which in an interval of five years has become the third largest harbor in the United States.  Here lies one of the greatest and most astonishing demonstrations of the enterprise of the Americans who build new states and cities from materials which have been thrown together as Romulus and Remus built Rome.</p><P>Call it materialism, greed, selfishness, egoism, but American projects are everywhere crowned with riches and with enviable fruits, significant proofs that America progresses completely with the times--times in which a nation must be assured physical freedom in order that there be a successful mental uplift of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:people; the golden present in which knowledge and truth are sought but in which man, bound to the physical world, does not hesitate to expose his varied material aspirations.  Time is different from style in that it produces no renaissances, but it produces development, culture, completion; thus the present is the past to a higher power.</p><P>The material activity of the American nation has made it great.  It is the youngest and it will be the most powerful of all nations.  Commercial ambition and greed drove the Americans to new discoveries and new sources of profit.  To satisfy these desires this nation offered defiance both to wild nature and to her wild aborigines.  The American does not yet know the borders of his country as its territory is greater than that of any other nation, and he will extend them farther and farther not by subjugating, but by liberating and cultivating.  His ambition for constant progress has even brought him across the great expanse of the ocean.  He has made known his aims in the rebellious islands of Polynesia as well as in his reclamation to Japan.</p><P>Wherever the American eagle with its powerful wings is found, his scattered seed will and must flourish, for that which possesses the strength and spirit of the eagle will lift itself up.  Prosperity, wealth and happiness are conceptions inseparable from American activity: they are deep rooted in the people in whose growth and increased communal life they materialize.  San Francisco was the best proof of this each time it rose anew, like the Phoenix, from its pile of ashes.  San Francisco is a site of happiness and is indestructible; its space was allotted to it by fate, and it must occupy it.</p><P>The great emigration to California, which laid the foundation for the present cities and enormous commerce, began in 1849.  When I visited San Francisco in the following year it had not only long, regular streets, which gave evidence of its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:harbor was over-crowded with ships among which those of the Chinese attracted the stranger's attention because of their novelty.  Steamers were built to facilitate communication with the interior of the country as such intercourse was constantly growing due to the great influx of emigrants.  The ocean steamers had already begun their regular trips from Panama and in the beginning of 1851, San Francisco was in her first bloom as a great commercial city of the world.  An immeasurable wealth has been gathered here and the citizens reveling in the gold country dreamed no more of unhappy days.</p><P>Then, once again, the horror came over the city.  On May 3, the third and greatest fire broke out, probably of incendiary origin, which in a few hours consumed about seven million dollars worth of property.  The whole business district of the city lay in ashes.  This resulted in the downfall of many rich citizens, who, rising from their crushing blow, built again with incredible rapidity.  This time more precautions were taken in spite of the tremendous hurry to get under roof again.  This proved that the American never loses his head and is as accustomed to make a rapid survey of the future as he is to finish with the past.  More fireproof houses were built, due not a little to the fact that wood was much more expensive after the fire than the bricks manufactured nearby, while before it had been so cheap and on the market in such great quantity that the city streets were paved with it at a relatively small cost and several wood dealers in New York went into bankruptcy because of their daring "lumber speculations".<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: Soon half the city rose anew from the site of the fire and so only a half-wooden city remained to be devoured by the flames of the fourth fire in June.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">In recent times a lovely fine-grained marble has been used for building.  It is found in the northern mines of the Eldorado region where, surrounded by granite, it seems to have been metamorphically produced from the lime in the <HI REND="italics">Leas</HI>
083.sgm:<P>Since then San Francisco has grown larger and larger in the style of a beautiful modern city, a second glorious New York of the West, and has no less traffic on its streets than is found in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:New York, the "teeming-place".  The enlarging of the city might veritably be called a rage to cover the shores of the bay.  That which was the southern boundary of the city two years ago, is now its center and the harbor begins where in 1850 the last ships anchored.  The inner part has been filled in with sand and gravel and the most important streets occupy this space.  The first large freight vessel to land in San Francisco stands here yet as a monument to the buried inlet.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>It all began right here<LB>The first log house stood near<LB>And they dug a little gash<LB>Where many oars now flash.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>The site of San Francisco is very favorable for shipping but it took much effort and art to adapt it to extensive inland communication.  In the south the city was inclosed rampart-like by many sand hills which were partially removed by steam shovels and taken by the railroad to be dumped into the bay.  Telegraph Hill, composed of greywacke, bounds the city in the north and affords but little protection from the violent trade winds of winter.  To the west lie the mountain slopes of the coast range.  At the northwest foot of Telegraph Hill, opposite Karquinez Bay, lies North Beach, a spacious slope with an open landing place; it is intended to make this the northern-most part of the city.  This slope is distinguished from the southern part of the city by its better drinking water and its less windy location.  The terrain consists partly of diluvum and partly of greywacke, with a partial change of mineralogical character.  Coal and slate marls, many plant remains and often whole banks of sweet-water mussels are found here as indices of a former inland sea.  A super-shrewd, experienced Yankee hoped to still find a sweet water basin under the Silurian formation and while attempting to dig <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:an artesian well in the city Plaza found such vestiges deep down on the greywacke stone.</p><P>The North Beach belonged for the most part to a Swiss family named Sturzzenecker who had settled here many years ago.  After losses in speculations they were forced to sell it in small parcels during the expansion of the city.  The old man fared like most of his countrymen and first settlers of this country.  He cordially gave the Yankees his finger and soon they held his whole hand.  His property seemed to be increasing enormously in value so the aged couple refused the sum of $300,000 offered them by some city speculators in the summer of 1850; they wanted California prices they said in their Appenzell dialect.  They put in a wooden dock and built a street to the city, doing everything in their power to improve the place, but the next year they were bankrupt.  The city grew more and more toward the south; North Beach depreciated and Sturzzenecker's former patrons did their share to bring about his downfall.  "Who wants everything will receive nothing."</p><P>There is a very imposing view from the heights behind San Francisco.  Looking over the city and the dense forest of masts at its foot one see the mirror-like bay extending to the south on which many steamers ply here and there.  On the east shore rise the dark forested slopes of the coast range mountains, grouped about the highest peak, Monte Diabolo.  Contra Costa, where a settlement remarkable for its gardens is being developed, lies opposite San Francisco.  In front of this rises the oval island, Yerba Buena, decorated by green meadows, and north of it opposite the narrows of Karquinez, are Angel Island and Alcantras, bare rocks lashed by the incoming waves and covered with flocks of sea birds.  Steep wooded shores extend from here to the mouth of the bay and form the columns of the Golden Gate.  Still visible on the southern heights of these are the ruins of a Russian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:fortress from those times when the ominous name Ross began to be heard on the coast of the Pacific Ocean and reminiscent of those days of horror of Rurik's time when the red-bearded inhabitants of the Borysthenes were victorious at Constantinople.  Not far from this is the picturesque military station of the Presidio, from which a path winds through cheerful Happy Valley to the Mission Dolores.  There is no more religious tranquillity here; the mission has become a suburb of San Francisco.  In the long, low main building, reminiscent of a Bernese country house with its projecting gabled roof and galleries, there is ceaseless animation; it is hotel, shop, slaughterhouse and Mexican <HI REND="italics">fonda</HI>
083.sgm: all in one.  A half-ruined enclosing wall and the picturesque church at one end of the mission dwellings show the only evidence of its origin.  Extensive gardens with cheerful, modern country houses surround this place of decay.  Sandy ground, dotted here and there with hills covered by gnarled oaks and bushes, extends between it and the city to which it is connected by a planked street.  Clouds of dust hover over the street showing the constant traffic, dedicated to pleasure and recreation, which concentrates here from all streets of the city.</p><P>The streets of San Francisco, like those of all modern American cities, are laid out at right angles.  The long streets are laid out parallel with the meridian and form with the broad streets which lead to the harbor a 360-foot square which is crossed by a communicating street.  Montgomery is the oldest and in every way the most important street.  The prettiest brick and iron buildings and the most magnificent shops lie between it and Kearney Street.  A single space of ground floor, twenty by thirty square feet, costs $ 100 to $ 300 rent a month.  Thus, the cost of a building can be paid in five years from its rent.  It is also generally the same in other sections of the city.  Building enterprises have become the most alluring and profitable speculations, especially <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:since fire insurance has been inaugurated in the country.  That is why San Francisco will rapidly increase in size and become indestructible.  It is needless to say that business must be tremendous when such an enormous rent has to be paid.  The year in California has only thirty days and each hour is worth a day for the capitalist as well as for the merchant.  If you do not know how to make both clever and diligent use of your time do not dare to come to the California emporium.</p><P>The main seat of the gold exchange is in this Montgomery quarter; also the new California State mint is here.  Most of the California gold may therefore be said to have its depot in this quarter before it leaves the country.  This quarter thus forms the heart sacks [pericardium] of American trading companies whose shareholders, like all members of the business world, frequently do not have their hearts in their heart sacks but in their money sacks, and as in the molluscs, this seems to be in the rectum.  To leave San Francisco without visiting this place is like visiting Rome without seeing the Pope.  Here Mammon is really exhibited in all his power, greatness and glory.  Piles of gold coins and gold dust lie here and there like grain in the granary and the smirking gold-changer stirs it up like the ant-eater burrowing in his food.  The gold scales which never rest, are very sensitive if they are not rusted at the balancing point, or if a magnet has not been placed at a well-calculated distance.  The gold dust is constantly sieved and separated; the last grain of quartz or magnetic iron sand is blown from it or cleaned out, during which process not even color of the gold can disappear from the office.  This seems an impossibility when one sees the extract in the shop bin which the gold melter or assayer in every banker's service must weekly reduce.<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2"><P>It is well known that the main parts of California gold (silver and gold) are to each other as the parts of water (oxygen and hydrogen), namely 11.1:88.9.  In the different kinds of gold there are several variations of this ratio which the practiced assayer or banker can practically recognize in the shade of color of the gold.  This approximate calculation of carats is the customary procedure in gold buying of all California bankers and not a little profit is added to the business in which only assayed gold is put up for sale.</p><P>In a similar manner accidental(?) percentages are obtained in the purchase of larger quartz or stone pieces, in which the seller is content to have the gold content hastily calculated according to the formula:</p><P>x = a(c-b)/c(a-b)  w</p><P>whereby a the specific weight of the gold (=19)</p><P>b the specific weight of the stone (=2.6)</p><P>c the specific weight of the entire mass, and</p><P>w the absolute weight of it.</p><P>the absolute weight of the stone controls this or:</p><P>y = b(a-c)/c(a-b)  w</p></NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The gold changer's busiest time is the last three hours of forenoon.  The bees of the gold region, the busy miners, arrive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:most useful.  Some gold merchants then melted gold into <HI REND="italics">pipedas</HI>
083.sgm: weighing an ounce and introduced these in trade.  They were followed by the manufacturer of the first private coins.  These will be remembered forever.  Two years after this coin factory was started the proprietors were called to justice and sentenced for the crime of mixing metals in the coin.  It was rumored that they knew how to make gold, an ancient art which the chemist, Tifferau, had recently brought from the gold country and laid before the French Academy of Science.  The names Balduin and Moffat are still written in black ink in the Great California ledger of Crimes and Criminals which Nemesis will take to hand at the end of the world.  In the summer of 1851 the people of California first found power and means to make a State coin and to pass laws for its use, and from this time on there was order in the gold quarter of the young harbor city.</p><P>The main artery of traffic is from Montgomery Street to the Long Wharf.  This dock, extending for a mile into the bay, is the quay of Venice for the inhabitants of San Francisco.  The stream of arriving and departing people, mariners, peddlers, and curiosity seekers moves ceaselessly back and forth from the city to the ships.  Restaurants, gambling houses, saloons, grocery stores and shops are crowded closely together covering half the length of the dock.  The inhabitants of the city buy their supplies here and the indigent loafers and Mexican <HI REND="italics">Leperos</HI>
083.sgm: visit the odorous eating booths.  We avoid the crowd and reach the row of houses at the extreme edge of the wharf where we come to the withered and evergreen forest of masts which increases and diminishes with every change of tide.  Its existence is also determined by an extremely short period of time, as the months of low and high tide is the time when the harbor money for the ships which anchor in San Francisco rapidly increases into an important sum which is used to maintain the wharves and the harbor.  In the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:first half year of 1853 the following boats ran into the harbor: two whalers, 216 American and 7 foreign coastwise vessels, 105 American and 231 foreign ships from foreign harbors with a total burden of 285,000 tons.  These are figures of harbor commerce only comparable to those of New York.</p><P>A mail boat arrives in San Francisco once every fourteen days, causing great excitement among the population.  When the telegraph office gives notice to the customs house of its arrival the United States flag is hoisted on all public buildings of the city and on the sailing vessels and it is a day of joy for the inhabitants of the Far West.  News from the old home town is anticipated or the arrival of relatives or acquaintances is hoped for.  The merchant learns the state of the eastern market or impatiently awaits the answer to the order he has sent there.  All rush down to the wharf to meet the arriving steamer or hurry to the post office where the mail is frequently even distributed on the same day.</p><P>In early 1851 I participated in such an unforgettable mail day in San Francisco.  It was a glorious Sunday afternoon when I heard the salute fired to the incoming steamer and thereupon went down to the Long Wharf.  The busy week-day crowd was replaced by curious spectators and idle city folk.  The mail steamer had docked, the passengers moved on to the city, but the dock was still covered with people who awaited the departure of the many river steamers destined for Sacramento and Stockton.  The larger of these were comfortable and fast and therefore soon crowded with passengers while the owners of the smaller vessels were using cheap fares to compete with them.  Barkers were employed who tried to sell tickets by wild yelling, praising their steamers and denouncing those of their competitors.</p><P>"Here, Gentleman, you can still buy a ticket," one of these barkers shouted to me, "I will give it to you at a fourth of its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:cost; buy it and hurry, hurry, for the <HI REND="italics">Clay</HI>
083.sgm:, the most heavenly boat in the world--the boat on which the ladies, the governor, and all high society travels--will leave San Francisco at precisely four o'clock and her passengers will set foot in Sacramento City at ten o'clock this evening after they have received a splendid supper gratis.  Here, buy a ticket--the <HI REND="italics">Clay</HI>
083.sgm: is. . . "</p><P>"What are you saying, you liar?" yelled another barker, "the <HI REND="italics">Clay</HI>
083.sgm: is an old tub and would blow up right away if our lightning ship the <HI REND="italics">West Point</HI>
083.sgm: should race with her.  The <HI REND="italics">West Point</HI>
083.sgm: can beat all comers both in speed and elegant equipment.  Here, friend, I will present you with a ticket so that you will not can be deceived by this loafer."</p><P>"You are a scoundrel, <HI REND="italics">a damn'd rascal</HI>
083.sgm:," replied his competitor angrily, and cursed him to his face.  The next moment they were fighting with their fists; but on the following day they were good friends again.  What one denounced the other praised.  The ticket cryers changed off every day.</p><P>In the meantime steam pressure on the steamers had been brought to its highest by increased firing.  That expectant quiet reigned which is always evident immediately before the departure of American steamers in which the senses of the passengers are strained for the sizzling sound of the steam pipes and the first turn of the wheel.  It was also evident among the staring crowd on the Long Wharf.</p><P>Suddenly there was a roar like thunder and huge clouds of steam rose in the air in which floated splinters of an exploded steamboat.  There was a great gap in the wharf which was covered with mangled corpses.  The water around the demolished stern of the ship was a pool of blood; human remains floated about in it.  A horrible scene met my eye as I came from the end of the wharf toward the place of the accident.  The thunderstruck crowd had moved back.  Pale as death several of them returned, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:anxious about a friend or acquaintance who had been on the steamer and while all, filled with horror and misery, looked at the bath of blood, the remaining steamers left the dock one after the other, and hurried by the scene of the accident, their passage stirring the blood in circles and mixing it with the water.  Humanitarians, who did not shrink from horror, used hands, hooks, and nets to grasp the mangled masses of meat, held together only by clothing, and placed them in casks and carts.  An hour later the "human meat" that had been destined for Sacramento City was in the city morgue and the landing place was cleaned up for the steamers arriving at night.  The next day it was said that the steamer <HI REND="italics">Sycamore</HI>
083.sgm: [ <HI REND="italics">Sagamore</HI>
083.sgm: ] had exploded as a result of a defective boiler and ninety people had been killed.  No more detailed examination of the accident was made and the competition of the steamers continued with its dangers.</p><P>Although human slaughter is of little importance in the easter part of North America the indifference with which it is overlooked in California is truly astonishing.  Occasionally of course, a defective boiler is the cause of such an accident but more frequently ignorance of the engineer and the crew is to blame. Cheap labor is employed straight off the streets with no examination as to competence.  The skill of the engineer and the excellence of the boat is only praised when speed far beyond the actual power of the machine is obtained.  It is common to carry the pressure several atmospheres too high and every day this machine which was made to serve society is calmly used to destroy or shorten human life, and because of lack of vision, to curtail its own profits.  Sacrifice of property and life are inseparable in the entire American " <HI REND="italics">Go-Ahead-System</HI>
083.sgm: "; and the State of California is a new sacrificial altar for the spirit of industry.</p><P>Leaving the Long Wharf and continuing in the same direction towards the center of the city one arrives in the midst of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:colorful race mixture in the quarter of the long-queued sons of the celestial empire.  This quarter of the city, on Kearney Street and the Plaza, formerly belonged to a Chinese restaurant owner who, soon becoming rich in the service of Mammon, returned to his native country and did his share to swell the flood of Chinese emigrating to San Francisco by renting them cheaply his building sites in the city.  There are about 30,000 of these Chinese now in California, of whom half reside in San Francisco and have taxable property valued between $ 2,500,000 and $ 3,000,000.  They are divided into four sections, named after their native provinces, the heads of each being the owner of several important Chinese stores in San Francisco.  They respect the American laws, have their own schools, also a heathen temple which they built on a site where already much has happened.  The eastern part of Africa is being converted by America, China will have to sacrifice its idols on the western edge of this continent.  American spirit will creep from here into the heart of the Mongolian race in eastern Asia and thus develop in their native country.</p><P>The Chinese comprise the most harmless part of the California population.  They are tireless and persevering in work and money-making and are rarely idle.  They live in a closed group in the mines and in the city.  They are therefore of little value to the California communities but they are well liked by all because of the knowledge that they can be of service in the future and because they do not interfere with the State in any way.</p><P>The largest and best-stocked stores of the city are in the Chinese quarter of San Francisco; they look like wax-works.  In the front of the store the richly brocaded silks are hung for show like tapestries and a variety of both artistic and useful Chinese objects first attract the eye.  The round-bellied Chinese merchant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:with comparative ease and who has no loved one to share its joys throws himself into the whirlpool of pleasure and frequently is destroyed by it.  In no other city in the world are pleasures outside the home more expensive and dangerous.  This is especially true if one has fallen into the strong net of intrigue and seductive arts spun by the modern California woman who has first whispered her siren's song:  "Come to us, we will hold you in our arms," but who quickly drops him who has no more gold.  There are people who have more confidence in a female Hottentot than in a female Californian.  A great part of the feminine sex here has such loose morals that this distrust in the entire sex has resulted.  The beautiful sex might be called the ugly sex in this country, where in spite of its beauty, it must seem empty and without charm because it lacks chastity, that sublime virtue that is at its loveliest in the hearts of women.  I say women, because once and for all I can only think about these lovely creatures in the plural.  It is not surprising that under existing conditions even the best and most innocent girl must succumb to the lure of vice and cannot be like the lotus flower which floats on the water without getting wet.  As soon as she arrives she falls into " <HI REND="italics">slyways</HI>
083.sgm: " by which she can very quickly obtain the goal of her golden desires.  Every woman traveling alone is therefore subjected to twofold danger when she arrives in San Francisco; the easy way to get gold and the heavy <HI REND="italics">crepes de chines</HI>
083.sgm: are things to which it is easy to get accustomed.</p><P>Sensual pleasure in the cities of California is bound up with as much luxury as it is in the most important cities of Europe.  It seems that the priestesses of Venus in their temples, palaces and on the <HI REND="italics">Haine von Amathunt</HI>
083.sgm: follow the principle of the English physician, Graham, who knew man and the heart of man, and who caused such a stir in London in the early eighties of the preceding century with his heavenly [canopied] bed which he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:recommended as a sanctum sanctorum to impotent married couples beginning with the words: "There are so many things that are as they are without our being able to understand the least thing about them."</p><P>California is the only place in the world where heavy Chinese silks are the customary clothing of the ladies, of which it may be said, easy come, easy go.  These and other articles of fashion are therefore the most popular here, especially in San Francisco, the dictatress of fashion.  In the ladies' world when one says, "It is being worn in San Francisco," it means as much as it means in school when they say, "The teacher said so."  Most of the Mexican and South-American women bury their wealth in these things.  In Mexico, a cotton <HI REND="italics">rebozo</HI>
083.sgm: (echarpe) was preferred to a silk one; here the most marketable is made of richly embroidered silk of the most bizarre and blatant colors, and from <HI REND="italics">reboza</HI>
083.sgm: to slippers the <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;orita</HI>
083.sgm: looks like a piece of a rainbow.  This glorious clothing is best displayed in the dancing houses.  San Francisco has several of these, not far from the Chinese quarter on Dupont street, which were always the main seat of the Spanish-American life of hilarity.  The "Mazurka" and "Polka" are the most popular and well known of these dancehalls.  At nightfall the exotic dance entertainment of the California Franciscans with their <HI REND="italics">Minorites</HI>
083.sgm: begins, a recreation which might be called the last work of the day to relax the strength of body and soul.</p><P>The southerner, whom Fortuna smiled on in the southern gold mines and elevated to the position of Caballero, vies with the rose-colored dandies of San Francisco for the favor of a richly dressed Mexican girl, or perhaps for that of a Peruvian girl, painted with <HI REND="italics">alegria</HI>
083.sgm:, strutting about in her <HI REND="italics">Saya y manto</HI>
083.sgm: and tight-fitting dress.  In the native dances skill and perseverance are the most important factors.  The favorites are: the <HI REND="italics">Bolero</HI>
083.sgm:, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Afforado</HI>
083.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Enano</HI>
083.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Jarabo</HI>
083.sgm:.  With very little imgaination a long rhymed dialogue of love, passion, and jealousy could be improvised by a couple dancing the <HI REND="italics">Bolero</HI>
083.sgm: as the steps of the dance are creeping and the rhythm of the odd music is very slow.  But to carry out well the fiery tempo and quickly changing figures of the other dances requires every bit of agility and energy that the dancer possesses.  The <HI REND="italics">Jarabo</HI>
083.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">Syrup</HI>
083.sgm: is a real exhibition dance.  Now slow, now fast, excited couples weave in and out in fantastic figures, tying and loosing knots.  Music, song, joy, dancers, and partners--all mingle without pause.  Now the harps, guitars, and mandolins with gloomy chords drown out the monotone humming of the song.  Instinctively the twinkling fingers of the brown-skinned player bring forth loud tones from his stringed-instrument.  These fresh chords strike the dancing crowd like a bolt of lightning.  The <HI REND="italics">Saya</HI>
083.sgm: becomes too tight, the <HI REND="italics">Rebozo</HI>
083.sgm: flutters high above the men in the bare arms of the dancer.  Her raven black braids loosen, lashing her shining brown shoulders; her satin slippers fly from her little feet; but she dances on, swaying this way and that about the glowing, tireless <HI REND="italics">Caballero</HI>
083.sgm:, while small hands clap or drum on the stiff hats of the dancers to intensify the mood and increase the ecstasy as much as possible.  The floor trembles, the ear is deafened, and the onlookers call for quicker tempo, for the <HI REND="italics">Folie d'Espagne</HI>
083.sgm: must end in general exhaustion.</p><P>The gambling halls of San Francisco give most accurate genre pictures and furnish similar examples of passionate pleasures.  These gambling houses afford an impressive look into the deep chasm of ruinous passions.  There are many of these buildings, which are distinguished from all others by their size, beauty, and fireproofing.  One comes, upon entering a large portal, directly into a richly decorated hall where the jostling crowd devote themselves to the games.  Musicians and singers, employed by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:gambling can also be seen playing there, not all day, but at least every evening and frequently until late at night.  Curiosity drives almost every emigrant into these gambling hells, where they can hardly resist the devilish but alluring arts of the master gambler.  Many a one, who carries with him his earnings of many months or years "just takes one chance," and afterwards can be seen coming away empty handed and morally wretched.  Play is only for big money, smaller sums are as unfamiliar here as the European " <HI REND="italics">va banque</HI>
083.sgm: " with which the player usually announces his greed or fear.  The California gambling hall is orderly and quiet in spite of the large crowd.</p><P>One evening I saw a haggard man standing at a gambling table.  The sight of him sufficed to put out any spark of desire for gambling that might have burned within me.  He was carelessly wrapped in a <HI REND="italics">Sarobe [Sarape]</HI>
083.sgm:; his brown face with its prominent features was shaded by a broad-brimmed sombrero decorated with gold lace so that the animated play of his small, deepset black eyes could hardly be observed.  He stood there, darting a quick blank glance at the cards and then a sharp look at the banker, only moving his hand involuntarily from time to time to his purse.  If you were unable to read the passion in his glowing eyes you could find no indices of it in the relaxed attitude of the quiet player.  The players both seemed calm and cool.  Suddenly the Mexican put his hand into his purse; his last supply of dollars and gold pieces lay on the card he thought would be lucky.  He directed the play himself in order to prevent any tricks.  His eyes glowing under the shade of his sombrero, his veins on his forehead swollen from greed, he drew and--lost.  With a dull cry " <HI REND="italics">Carajo</HI>
083.sgm: " he disappeared in the mocking crowd.  A few moments later he returned and won much.  Then his face shone with joy for several seconds but as soon as the game continued, all his passion came to the fore and again he lost everything.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>One day I saw him happy again; he was banker.  I stood by his side while in loud tones he told a friend of his how he had broken a Monte bank a short time previously and was now its owner.  His sonorous voice seemed familiar to me.  I looked closer at the lucky fellow and recognized one of the <HI REND="italics">Majordomos</HI>
083.sgm: in whose caravan I had traveled to the southern mines.  With true Mexican cordiality he first invited me to participate in his Monte bank and win from him some lovely specimens of quartz containing gold which he said he would like to see in my possession because they had such mineralogical value.  Then he drew his coin purse from his pocket and took from it a beautifully formed gold piece.  Handing it to me he said, "But first accept this present in gratitude for your favors shown to our caravan.  Nature has destined it for you as it bears the initials of your name.  I found the gold piece several days before we left the Mariposa mines.  Our caravan did no good business there; the Indians stole thirty mules from us and we never saw them again.  We were more fortunate on the Calaveras.  I earned so much there that I decided to return to my native country.  After arriving in San Francisco, however, gambling ruined me.  Twice I have won much only to lose it all again; the third time I finally reached my present position.  Next month I expect to have 20,000 <HI REND="italics">pesos</HI>
083.sgm: and then I will soon again own my <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
083.sgm: near Mazatlan which has been placed at the disposal of my creditors during my absence.  <HI REND="italics">Caramba</HI>
083.sgm:!  You must visit me there, you will like the life in Mexico better than that in California.  <HI REND="italics">Amigo mio</HI>
083.sgm:!  I will put all my property at your disposition...Wait, I will introduce you now to a lady who will bring you luck.  This gold <HI REND="italics">pipeda</HI>
083.sgm: which I now give you opportunity to win is worth an ounce; I will let you have it for eight <HI REND="italics">pesos</HI>
083.sgm: which you will kindly place on one of these four cards...  <HI REND="italics">Amigo voya</HI>
083.sgm:!"</p><P>The graciousness of the <HI REND="italics">Majordomo</HI>
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083.sgm:could not refuse his invitation and I did not resist it--not drawn on by the lure of the gambling--but rather by the duty of repaying him.  I took a chance and won.  "You see," the Monte holder continued, "Fortuna is as gracious to you as is your friend who offers you another gold specimen worth twenty <HI REND="italics">pesos</HI>
083.sgm:.  If you win this I shall be satisfied and should you be inclined to continue the pleasant entertainment we must then play for coined money."  While he was speaking the last words I put down my money and the player drew the card.  I won again, this time on the lady, whom he had presented to me.  The orchestra, playing a prelude, entered the hall, it filled with people and my place at the Mexican Monte bank was soon occupied by several newcomers.  They were countrymen of the banker so I thought it would be a good thing for me to modestly retire after I had taken leave of my unselfish <HI REND="italics">Amigo</HI>
083.sgm:, of course, with <HI REND="italics">milgracias</HI>
083.sgm:.</p><P>The largest and most magnificent gambling buildings are on the Grand Plaza of San Francisco.  It would take a whole book of history to write about the different things that have befallen them since they were first built.  They were burnt down several times and rebuilt by speculators; banned by the public and then sanctioned; closed by their owners and opened again; transformed from gambling house to church, to theater, to dance hall, to hotel and store and then back again to the first.  They have had careers which no other buildings in the world can equal.  The "Eldorado" is the oldest gambling house and the only one spared from the three fires, while the "Parker House" right next to it has been rebuilt and fireproofed since the last fire.  Its architecture and elegance surpass all other buildings of the city.  Half of it is built of marble blocks which were shipped around Cape Horn and in its way it is perfect.  On every floor and in every wing there is a different establishment for the good or ill of man.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Every kind and degree of entertainment and diversion is offered here from a bowling alley and a shooting gallery to a theater.  The theatre is dedicated to the "Swedish Nightingale."  In eastern United States they had Jenny Lind hats, sofas, gloves and I cannot recall all the humbug called "Jenny Lind"; in California they hurried to have a "Jenny Lind Theatre."  But if that dear nightingale had seen the comedy and goings on two years ago in the palace dedicated to her she would not have been pleased to own such a monument.  The most astonishing part about the whole thing was that any one would ever set foot in it.</p><P>Lola Montez, that remarkable lady more admirable as an artiste than as a human being has left ineffaceable memories of herself in San Francisco and in other California cities, where she danced with all the power of her charms and appeared in a play of which she herself was the heroine.  The Casino "Lola Montez" is the counterpart of the Jenny Lind Theater.</p><P>Wherever gambling houses are found there is much opposition to them and the same is true in California, although they have a different significance in this young and peculiar State than elsewhere.  They are the common property of the transient crowd, who visit them seeking entertainment to pass the time away, or after a bad disappointment, to renounce forever vain hopes for good fortune.  Many unemployed men, forced to remain in the city, sit here cogitating upon their fate.  The gambling rooms are heated in winter and the homeless find shelter there.  Such mixtures of people as gather anew every day in California cities need entertainment to forget their hard lives and their unhappiness.  The gambling halls fulfill this purpose and also draw to the cities the moneyed part of the scattered population and thus bring about an increase in commerce and profits.  It is true that most of the gold reaching the cities in this way finally comes into a banker's hands who sends it out of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:country, but the State has received from its taxes a new and great source of income.</p><P>Nevertheless, the gambling halls of California are schools of crime.  Like many theaters and saloons they are gathering places for criminals who at night go from one hall to the other until the hour draws near for committing the crime they have planned against society.  A circumspect secret police could perform a great service in the gambling halls.<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3">In the first part of 1853 San Francisco had for her population of 50,000, forty-eight gambling halls and 547 saloons; most of those have a sign stating: "Here you may get drunk for a Dollar, dead drunk for two Dollars, and get straw for nothing."</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>Where gold rains, evil pours.  In California not only did establishments serving lascivity and the evil passions soon flourish but the Eldorado soon became a capital of actual erring of human principles and recognized morals, a home of human monsters.  Catilina was a libertine before he was an incendiary, and it may be that in California it was but a step from the sin of debauchery to that of crime.  Many criminals step from the ranks of society where there are enough so-called "imaginary criminals."  It can not be denied that California owes the many terrible catastrophes of her cities not so much to herself as to the English criminal colony in Australia from where the "Sidney Fellows," who escaped from their probation, soon flooded the new country.  Since Australia now has the good fortune to rival California much less crime can be observed in relation to the increased population.  Of course the California police were able to vaccinate the dregs of California society with the fear of the gallows, but this took not a little effort and money on their part.</p><P>At first the jury was busy all day.  Considering the make-up of this first jury the conclusion is reached that it hindered crime but was not powerful enough to wipe it out.  It consisted of people chosen from all classes who were rarely endowed with the necessary intelligence, experience, intuition, calm, lack of passion, deep sense of justice and great strength of character to judge the criminal with sufficient severity, as is often the case in more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:restricted courts.  Accuser and accused could each choose three jurymen from a selected group; the other six were chosen by the sheriff.  Frequently, yes daily, these jurymen were simply picked up at the door from a group of idlers who were attracted by the $5.00 to $8.00 to be earned for each case.  The main requirement of such a juryman was that he be an American citizen and understand the English language.  These men had no other interest in the process of justice than to earn as much money every day as they could. So they tried to pass judgment on as many cases in as short a time as possible and the verdict of guilty or not guilty was passed without long debates.  Whether or not bribery and other wrongs were perpetrated by a jury made up in this manner need not be considered here.  Perhaps their greatest worth lay in the fact that they could not be bought.  The fact is that at the time crime flourished the people suddenly became tired of this justice and with it of the State's laws for protection of property and person which could not be enforced because of the great expanse of territory and the gathering and dispersing of such a variety of individuals.  Practice of the law of might was recalled and a special procedure of justice created which was used whenever the law of the State did not apply or could not be enforced at the right time.  Since California has taken her place in world affairs protection is offered and the "Rogues" have been cleaned out of the country.  This has been accomplished by the feared and terrible Vigilance Committee, a most dangerous and severe court, a horrible worldly court of Lynch-Law which always held ready the noose and which could only in this way prevent California from becoming the meeting place of criminals from the whole world.</p><P>The Vigilance Committee of San Francisco consisted of all justice-loving inhabitants of the city whose energetic efforts laid the foundation for the present regular police of California.  Thus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:these people attained self-assurance not by law, but by reason, determination and right.  If the courts did not pass judgment quickly enough or in agreement with popular opinion Lynch-Justice was waiting outside the courtroom in a state of threatening anarchy to aid the carrying out of the sentence.  That is,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>If the court was too obtuse<LB>They helped along with the hangman's noose.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>This court of the people gradually became milder and served only as a supplementary or control organ of the official courts which, finally, rising from their imperfect youthful state, made the former superfluous.  It would have been utterly impossible to wipe out the people's court as the attacker would have been opposed by the mob.  The State made an attempt in this direction which, however, called forth open defiance and mockery of the jury in the form of public abusive speeches and accusing caricatures.  These are familiar forms of satire among the English and differ from those of the French and Dutch in that these nations use vulgar songs and medals.  Yes, they went so far as to arrest and banish the governor who had several times pardoned criminals, accusing him of being an abettor of the criminal gang.</p><P>This occurred after the second great fire in San Francisco when the bitterness of the people knew no limits and their rage against those who had caused their misfortune could not be extinguished by the many hangings.  It was a reign of terror in which the peaceful observer in the California coast city encountered only pictures of fear and despair and scenes from Hell.</p><P>One must witness a hanging to understand how far a human being can forget himself in the enjoyment of satisfying his love for justice and lust for revenge.  In a mob of 15,000 to 20,000 victims of a fire standing on the smoking embers of their recently glittering city with the originator of their misfortune in their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:midst, cursing him while they prepare the death noose, this lust for revenge spreads like wildfire.  With wild shouts of "Hurrah!" they put the good for nothing, inhuman weakling on the gallows, rushing so that he has barely sufficient time and composure to confess his deed as did J. Stuart, executed like this on July 11, 1851, with the words: "I die resigned: my sentence is just."  It is horrible to witness such a hanging scene.  The mob snorting for revenge seems to have something in common with the criminal and the spirit that rules them is as contagious as a cold, as the Englishman, Shaftesbury, remarked.  Many a person who has never felt the least desire for revenge has involuntarily joined in the Lynch cry "hang 'im".<ANCHOR ID="n5-4">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: An observer of such a California mob hanging can recognize the primitive urge in every man to see that which is rare and exciting even if revolting.  Not to resist this urge is to admit a weakness.  What makes this hangman's procedure so terrible and barbarous is the rare phenomenon of the individual joining and assuming the attitude of the feverishly excited mob which is about to torture a victim without exact information concerning his deed.  It is probable that many a victim of this lynch justice was merely suspected of the crime for which the angry mob suddenly screamed his death sentence.  As the saying has it:  <HI REND="italics">vox populi Dei</HI>
083.sgm:!  When such screams were heard in California the individual at whom they were directed was a lost man.  He could not even hope for freedom if the rope tore.  In Brazil in such hangings the words of the psalm, "The rope has torn and we are free" were obeyed and the prisoner was released.  In California, however, the victim was certain to be the subject of Shakespeare's burial song:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>A pick-axe and a spade, a spade,<LB>For--and a shrouding sheet:<LB>O, a pit of clay for to be made<LB>For such a guest is meet.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-4">I remember an American couple who celebrated a California hanging day by making it the day of their wedding.</NOTE>
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083.sgm:free workers the slaves in the United States.  It was therefore to the greatest advantage of these States to lend all possible encouragement to its settlement and expansion.  The people being produced here are Chinese, Sandwich Islanders, and a mixture of these bred with Mongolo-Zambos, the offspring of free Africans.  A great increase of these will do more in the future towards the abolishing of the slave yoke than all the returning of negroes to Liberia in Africa, which really seems unnecessary and not very wise when one understands that it opposes the interbreeding of the races which is to the best interest of humanity.</p><P>In California even the slave who has escaped from the other States is protected and free.  Countless slaves, who have escaped or been stolen from their former owners, come to this place of refuge where without interference they can devote themselves to their "Jigs" to the melody of "Jim" and Josey".<ANCHOR ID="n5-5">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: The wealthy California negroes have become especially talented in such stealing and many mystery stories could be written about their operations which have been very cleverly developed.  The negroes exhibit a great deal of energy and intelligence in saving their brothers.  Thousands of these flock to the gold mines where they perform the most arduous labor, labor which no white man could perform.  They work so hard not only to better their own condition but also to obtain the purchase price of their relatives or friends who still languish in the chains of slavery.  This proves that the black man working as a free man wishes to work harder and can really produce more than the white man, in spite of the hot climate and in spite of his resemblance to the monkey--a theory which a learned scientist recently discovered and tried out among the "short-skirted" negro girls at a Brazilian slave market.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-5">A dance to the odd melody of a foolish negro or minstrel song.  Jim and Josey (Jacob and Joseph) are common names among the American slaves, the latter probably because it was the name of the first man sold after Adam's time.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>California is a twofold Eldorado in this respect and a harbinger of salvation for the unfortunate sons of Africa.  Hail to such a land that produces happiness and fortune!  Hail to San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Francisco, its capital, the flower of the west which blooms now on the glowing purple shore of the Pacific and will flourish in the great ocean of time; she is the magic torch which lights the way for a great immigration and brightens our planet with a new human asylum, rich in treasure!  The world city, San Francisco, remains unforgettable for him who has seen her first miraculous development.  It is with peculiar emotions and hesitant steps that we leave this western American "Eureka".</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VI</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>On to the North of Upper-California</p><P>IN THE early spring of 1851 it was rumored that gold was found in incredible quantity in the north of Upper-California between 41 &deg; and 42 &deg; N. lat., from along the coast to far into the interior of the Klamath River territory.  All San Francisco was excited as the rumor soon became so gold-swelled that everyone firmly believed the $100 to $300 could be obtained there in one day.  Hundreds of those greedy for gold prepared for departure and left the city for the new region.  Many of these were probably not so credulous as to completely believe these fairy tales but they thought (as people often do believe what they wish to believe) that there must be some truth in these rumors.  Then too, it had almost become the fashion in California to follow the first rumors of new discoveries because many became rich in this way who previously had tried in vain to work the old mines and bring forth the god of the world from his dark caves.</p><P>I joined the expedition for I was glad to grasp an opportunity which presented a charming new bit of travel.  I exchanged the activity of the coast city for the quiet of primitive nature, the city dwellers for the redskins, and soon strode from the scene of tinsel show and tinsel gold, where society was trying to be fashionable, to that of danger and want, of privation and resignation.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>I made the journey by sea along a mostly rocky coast on an American schooner.  The small group of passengers experienced several storms and many an evil fate threatened during the eventful trip of fourteen days.  We were forced to anchor first in Drake Bay, thirty-five miles from San Francisco.  It is twelve to twenty fathoms deep on the uninhabited coast, discovered in 1578 [1579] by Francis Drake and named New Albion by him.  Later we also anchored in calm, protected Bodega Bay.</p><P>This coast, dotted with wave-like hills, is gently sloping and has an abundance of water from the coast range.  Thousands of wild cattle and horses which have probably run away from Sonoma and Fort Rott [Ross] roam it in untrammeled freedom and offer rich hunting for the American rifleman.  But as California's demand for meat increases these herds are being gradually wiped out.  Several ugly slaughtering places on the shores of the bay give evidence that devastating <HI REND="italics">Matanzas</HI>
083.sgm: are periodically practised here by hunters.</p><P>The captain of our schooner, <HI REND="italics">Odd Fellow</HI>
083.sgm:, pointed out the glorious cattle hunting and encouraged us to make a sally on the herds after they greeted us on our arrival in the bay with very distrustful bellowing from the top of the bluffs.  A storm raged over the ocean and soon hunger and the lure of the chase raged within us.  We decided to go after a wild calf and went ashore to pursue the pleasure of this peculiar hunt.  If you are familiar with hunting you will know that its enjoyment lies not so much in the killing of the prey as in its pursuit, and you must admit that a cattle hunt has an inexhaustible supply of this particular enjoyment and pleasure.  These are wild steers which resemble buffalo in the way they form bands, and in their rage and dangerousness, but they differ from them in that they are less timid and boldly advance towards the hunter.  They form in rows and stand there staring dumbly at him.  The newcomer approaches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:them fearlessly on foot within shooting distance as he believes them not to be dangerous.  Immediately that he takes aim and fires they become angered by the shot and using it for a signal they break order and attack.  If flight is still possible he has learned a lesson, is punished for his first daring and warned to be more careful in the future.</p><P>Our first cattle hunt thus resulted not so much in spoils as in constant flight, as none of us, except the sailors, had had any experience in such hunts and in spite of their warning we insisted on getting as near as we could to get the best shot.  These animals can only be killed by stalking and by cowardly slyness.</p><P>The raging sea still prevented our departure and, more-over, the Captain did not wish to leave such a glorious anchorage.  So he had some empty casks made ready to be filled with salt meat and then went out and showed the passengers that he and his sailor marksmen were as familiar with <HI REND="italics">Matanzas</HI>
083.sgm: as they were with coastal voyages.</p><P>I did not wish to allow these days of rest of our schooner to pass idly and as chance would have it we were not very far distant from the first volcanic region of the Mappa [Napa] Valley.  This spurred me on to make an excursion.  A young Pole, who had traveled around the world and who said he was going to continue traveling until Poland was no longer lost, was my companion.  A hunter whom we chanced to meet not far from the landing place, who lived at the Lagoon or <HI REND="italics">Goldlacke</HI>
083.sgm:, offered to be our guide.  Our excursion was certainly made more interesting by this chance meeting.</p><P>This spare, vigorous guide walked along with us carrying his simple hunting sack and his rifle on his shoulder and wearing an Indian tunic of deer leather.  He had lived in this region many years and was a comrade of old Greenwood, and American hunter who has become proverbial in California.  "Old Greenwood" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:lived near the lagoon since 1826 and in his eighty-fourth year still distinguished himself as a hunter, counsellor and guide of travelers in the Mappa and Sacramento valleys.  Many adventures and strange anecdotes about him circulate on the Sacramento.  The hunter in the leather tunic told us a great deal about him and added some episodes of his own story.  Suddenly in the midst of telling us these he rushed away into a small wood and vanished from our sight.  A short time later he stood in our path holding on to a young pseudo-Indian whose hands he had tied together.  "Good luck!" he shout-ed to us as he wiped the sweat from his hot brow.  "I will have finished my day's work when I hang this young good-for-nothing on the next tree."</p><P>"And now I have finally caught you," he said to his prisoner in Spanish, "Your father is a great thief and you will be the same if I do not see to you in time; confess the whereabouts of your father who has my stolen pony, or ...!"</p><P>"He is three miles from here, but I tied the pony down there in the woods," stuttered the frightened boy.</p><P>Thereupon, the hunter took his leave, first asking for a drink.  He would not drink from the flask, however, until we each had taken several swallows.  This is a backwoods custom, the purpose of which is probably to learn whether or not the drink is poisoned.  The red-skinned boy followed him with faltering steps to the designated woods and we never saw either of them again.</p><P>I have not the slightest doubt that this strange adventurer was one of those feared sharp-shooters of the Far West, one of the pathfinders of conquering civilization, who carry the power of the whites before the eyes of the wild natives, terrorizing them in their ignorance.  Their footsteps mark the speedy advance of civilization.  With the greatest alacrity he had offered to be our guide.  He coolly and craftily examined the region in search of new adventures while telling us with warm interest, simply, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:almost in Indian fashion about his friends.  He suddenly interrupted his tales to go into action, leaving us ignorant of the surprising intermezzo he was preparing for us which might have ended in blood flowing before our eyes.  He seemed to me to be a counterpart of our young captain about whom I learned on our short coastal voyage that he was one of those fearless heroes who explore the coasts of little known countries, seeking adventure and gain who, familiar with the gulf bottoms and the moods of the wind, are use-ful pioneers of shipping, thus serving the works of civilization.  Everything has its gradual transition and progress and the more one looks behind the scenes of the world theatre the more one recognizes everywhere the features of divine providence.</p><P>Soon after our backwoodsman left us we reached the fire-spewing grottos and Smoking Hills or <HI REND="italics">Fumaroles</HI>
083.sgm: of Mappa Valley.  We arrived at a narrow, rocky, romantic chasm.  We descended its steep wall, climbing down from rock to rock on the basalt and granite boulders.  We finally reached a cave where the demoniacal power of the flames, the fumes of water and sulphur steam, the fulminant roar, the rush and swish, the hissing and sizzling of the steaming stream or <HI REND="italics">Stufa</HI>
083.sgm: far surpasses human power of description.  A crystal clear stream flowing from this hellish pool of terribly beautiful and exalted nature winds through a charming little valley.  Along it near the fire cave the earth echoes under firm steps just as if it were hollow.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: Drossy, slimy volcanic products, pumice and ferriferous masses lay scattered over its banks.  Pyrite, crystallized sulphur often very beautiful, pieces of asphalt and kale are found everywhere.  Salt <HI REND="italics">Theemen</HI>
083.sgm:, or <HI REND="italics">Ojos Calientes</HI>
083.sgm:, as they are called in the language of the country, on which play bluish gas flames like Roman candles, bubble forth from cracks and crevices in the sides of the cavern, while several larger <HI REND="italics">Salfataren</HI>
083.sgm: are active on the hills.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">This sound, named "Rimbombo" by the Italians, is found not only on the slopes of Vesuvius and other hollow volcanoes but also on plains, as on the Campagna near Rome, which consists mostly of Tuff and volcanic rock.  (Lyell's <HI REND="italics">Geologia</HI>
083.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Ground trembles, spray swirls,<LB>From the bank smoke bursts in whirls.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>We could not penetrate deeper into this little known volcanic region whose phenome&die;na cannot be understood in spite of known volcanic theories.  We had to hurry to reach our coastal traveler where we arrived just as the flag of departure was being hoisted.</p><P>In nautical parlance we "ran before the wind" during the first days of our journey, with rudder creaking and the sails full.  We wanted to enter Humboldt Bay, but the sanded entrance, which had been made even more narrow by the recently stranded steamer <HI REND="italics">Chesapeake</HI>
083.sgm:, did not suit our captain so he gave it a wide berth.  We were becalmed the next day so our versatile captain used this time to play a new ro&circ;le.  We met a whaler whose crew was occupied in harpooning a whale.  As soon as we saw this our captain exchanged a few words with the captain of the whaler and then rowed us curious passengers in both our boats to a place of vantage.</p><P>It was a lovely, cheerful afternoon with the sea like glass.  Soon wave-like circles formed on it, it stirred up as if it was about to give birth to a mountain or a volcanic eruption.  The harpooners in their boats, which were at some distance from each other, breathlessly centred their attention on the drama of the sea.  Turned towards the place of battle they waited in a position in which the left knee was braced against the boat while the extended right leg was ready to deal well-aimed kicks to lend emphasis to commands to the ship's boy, who was busy with the lines.</p><P>Suddenly a black body rose high above the surface of the ocean and thrashed about wildly, spreading spray and vapor.  The whale came to light and, greedily drinking in air, received several more spears in his body which the harpooners threw at him from all sides.  This murderous attack of the harpooners at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:it was written: "Do you believe that the companies will cut him up so that he be divided among the merchants?  Think well before you lay hand on him for it will be a struggle which you will not finish.  He disdains all; he is a king of the proud."  Is this the fulfillment of the words of the prophets?</p><P>The sea was gradually covered with oily blood for a large space around the boats when the harpooners suddenly recognized, by the trembling of the lines which acted as telegraph wires, the whale's last despairing efforts, and then by their slackness, his early rise to the surface.  The lines were wound up almost as quickly as they had run out as the harpooners still extended their right legs and their commanding "Haul in!" must be exactly obeyed by the ship's boy.</p><P>There lay the black prey in the midst of his conquerors.  A few more blows and the sight was horrible.  The wonderful creature who an hour before had spurted the clear ocean water like a rainbow now spread cascades of blood from his body, covered with wounds, and showed terrible agony by snorting and crying, and his eyes which had shown through the sea with fire and courage had lost their noble expression and were gloomy, dull, bulbous masses, bulging in their sockets, horrible and pitiful to see.  But there could be no pity or sympathy for the old, one-armed king of the sea and of the proud, he must be killed and cut up into his component parts to illuminate man's houses of joy, and also his churches, in which there is constant prayer for mercy and against all attacks and injurious action. Lances pierced the tortured animal on all sides.  Like the earth he involuntarily turned over in his own element showing the whitish-yellow secret surface of his body--and died.</p><P>It has been said that the whale never leaves the polar ocean to come to the southern regions.  This may be true in the Atlantic Ocean where the extensive shipping frightens the animals.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:the Pacific Ocean, however, beginning in the month of March quite a large number of whales start excursions along the coast where the green infusoria feed of the <HI REND="italics">Clio borealis</HI>
083.sgm: lures them to 38&deg;.  The whalers, who buy and sell in San Francisco, go on the hunt at this time and frequently are laden with spoils before they reach the polar ocean.  It is doubtful if these whaling excursions will continue as this animal also has a brain and, avoiding the advance of civilization, he will remain behind the crystal mountains of his ocean.</p><P>Our captain whose bloody hands and clothes showed plainly that he had not been the most inactive of the fighters in the whale battle made ready the same evening to depart.  The land wind, about which he was as sensitive as a windrose, sprang up and whistled joyfully in the rigging of his "rakish" looking, fickle sweetheart.<ANCHOR ID="n6-2">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: He was in a good mood; memories of his former life as a whaler seemed to have made him feel happy and he told us the following:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-2">The sailor calls his ship "She" because the rigging, the clothing of his sweetheart, costs more than the whole ship, and because wind and clothing are of utmost importance to the feminine sex, in, with, and for which it moves, and also because in regard to women men should always take the helm.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>It was summer Sunday when we anchored in Baffins Bay.  The sky was sunny and clear and all was calm and tranquil.  Most of the crew had rowed over to the icy banks to look for sea-bird eggs, and the others were asleep in the cabin.  I was taking a solitary walk on deck when I noticed an iceberg at a short distance in the center of which was a great cave, such that the iceberg looked like an enormous triumphal arch through which probably many a king of the sea had passed with his army.</p><P>I immediately felt the desire to see this wonder at closer range and invited a sailor to accompany me in a small boat.  I had never heard nor read anywhere that a traveler or whaler in the arctic ocean had passed or examined such a cave and I was therefore determined to enjoy the novelty of this marvel.</p><P>After rowing a mile we reached the ice portal.  If the laws of nature are God's thoughts one of the greatest of these was actually before my eyes in all the splendor of art, colored light and poetry.  It was an ice arch in which the strangest ice figures formed a frieze along its alabaster walls.  Sunbeams shone down the corridor, which was about one hundred feet long, and lent emerald green shadows to its depths while the upper walls of the arch were a dark blue.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:thirty-five miles away in Trinidad Bay as he thought that at this time of year the mouth of the Klamath would be sanded like that of the Humboldt.</p><P>When in sight of Trinidad Bay we were surprised by the wildest storm of all.  The captain, who was probably also seeing this port for the first time and came here wishing to become familiar with it, was not less frightened and astonished than the passengers at seeing a rocky and craggy gulf before us instead of a safe harbor and anchorage.  The storm howled terribly.  Masts groaned, the winds blew and every moment threatened to shatter us on the rocks.  Several ships which had entered the bay a few days before were faring no better.  They bounced about like balls, only protected by the strength of their anchor chains.  We were forced to attempt a landing in spite of the threatening danger.  We could not return to the open sea as we were already too close to shore to tack.</p><P>Our captain's actions in this dangerous situation showed plainly that not only his ship but he too should have been called "Odd-Fellow."  The ship was making the oddest movements, jumping this way and that with the wind, and our captain showed that he was one of those daring Americans who develop the most energy and presence of mind in the greatest danger.  His ringing commands could be heard above the storm.  In the twinkling of an eye the main and stay sails were hoisted again, he himself took the wheel and before we were aware of it the wind drove us between rocks and ships onto the nearby sandy shore.  We struck the sandbank so violently that we were thrown against the ship's sides like volitionless atoms.  Although I had been frightened at first this annoyed me and I defiantly pulled myself together and was almost ashamed that for a moment I had permitted my inner strength to be subdued by danger.  This happened frequently to me.  When the ocean rolls and rages, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:</PAGEINFO>making us its plaything we become defiant and aware of our strength but when it is calm and seems to be controlled by us we often become melancholy and weak.  The captain gave a second command--and the sailors jumped overboard with the ropes, tying the unharmed schooner to tree stumps and boulders.</p><P>A crowd of passengers from the other ships stood on the shore helping us as best they could to bring our wet bodies and our baggage to a dry place.  We reached the shore just as the crowd, shrieking with horror, was running back and forth in bewilderment, wringing their hands in terror.  One look at the towering waves explained their actions to me; two of the ships anchored in the harbor had broken their anchor chains and were bumped together by the wind and waves.  First it looked as if they would smash each other, then they flew apart, and then the raging elements threw them both towards the rocks.  Human aid was evidently not possible.  We could hear the terrified cries of the passengers who were still on board.  They rushed around the decks in wild confusion, naked or clothed just in a shirt for ease in saving themselves by swimming.</p><P>In this terrifying moment of catastrophe both captain and passengers were lost in dumb resignation in which property and even life seemed to have little importance.  Suddenly an Indian chief followed by his tribe, the Allequas of Trinidad, appeared at the top of the cliff and hurried towards us, shouting and commanding as he came.  His appearance was so startling that all eyes on the beach, turning away from the boats in the gulf, looked up at him.</p><P>The chief now began an animated pantomime.  Pale and with bloodshot eyes he raised his bow and arrow in the air and shouting loudly made signs that his people and we should all join him.  It seemed to me that he wanted to break the power of the wind or chase a bad spirit from the air.  This was really his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:intention.  We saw that we could not help the ships and instinctively, still under the spell of their first impression, many of the whites joined in the shouting.  In the meantime the ships stranded.  As soon as this was an accomplished fact fear vanished among the whites and as they became cooler and more self-controlled they looked at each other and became aware of the oddness of their actions.  To suppress the secret shame they felt at their weakness they broke out in gales of laughter, turning the tragedy into comedy.</p><P>The redskins, however, were silenced, hurt and indignant with a disdainful "quimalla woatli!" (bad whites), they turned on their heels and moved towards their settlement farther down towards the ocean.</p><P>The passengers were all saved but in the short time of half an hour seven ships had sprung leaks and stranded and one was completely wrecked.  The passengers from our ship separated now and went on their way to the gold region.  But the gold rumors proved exaggerated; a speculative device invented by several ship captains to get rich by transporting many people and much goods to the new mining region.  They "calculated" to get rich, but were painfully punished.  Some gold was found, however, in the so-called Goldbluffs and also in the mountains and valleys of the Klamath, Trinity, Salmon and Scotch rivers.</p><P>Trinidad Bay is still not well known.  It does not assure a safe landing for ships with its island-like promontory offering but little protection against the north wind.  The coast is covered by dense forests and traversed by wild streams.  The first settler was a German, Baron Lo&die;ffelholz, who erected a large sawmill on one of the forest streams.  Soon an Irishman, a farmer, joined him.  The first real settlement was formed at the bay in 1851 in the interests of the gold seekers.  At my arrival I counted ten tents; two weeks later the place had twenty-five houses, some of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:which were built of zinc, and many tents.  It seemed as if a new harbor city had been called into existence by the magic cry of gold.  At my departure I found Trinidad a place deserted by man and God, outshone by even the miserable Indian settlement.  The founders of Trinidad quickly disappeared with most of the disappointed gold-seekers and left their dwellings to an uncertain fate.  The place will again play an important role, however, when California's demand for wood and her need for agriculture, which can here be carried on extensively, will repopulate it.</p><P>The Indians of Trinidad have their few habitations at a short distance south of the town on a slope abounding in springs at the edge of thesea.  I set up my tent near them and thus observed much that was new and rare in a primitive tribe of people.  In their midst I learned to share many of their ideas, many of which philanthropists have frequently found to be glowing and inextinguishable even if they are not generally approved.</p><P>The Allequas, or wood Indians, seemed to me to be the most beautiful and intelligent Indians of California.  They are of our build, strong and robust with powerful bodies.  Their skin is not so cinnamon or peat-colored but whiter like that of the ancient Incas is supposed to have been.  A soft red shows in the cheeks of the young people and especially in the women's.  Their head ( <HI REND="italics">homaschkwa</HI>
083.sgm: ) is less flat than that of other Indians, the brow is broad, the facial angle towards eighty degrees; the nose ( <HI REND="italics">ellek</HI>
083.sgm: ) Roman curved; the eye ( <HI REND="italics">mellin</HI>
083.sgm: ) large without such square sockets and more intelligent; the lips ( <HI REND="italics">matella</HI>
083.sgm: ) not swollen; the chin ( <HI REND="italics">schtalas</HI>
083.sgm: ) oval; and hands and feet ( <HI REND="italics">metzk</HI>
083.sgm: ) small.  All their features are less sharp and broad than those of the southern Indian.  The main characteristics of all human races can be recognized in their faces and their physiognomy might be said to be that of primitive man.  The Allequas have strong, fairly flexible hair, which is burnt off to an inch long all around the head on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:the men ( <HI REND="italics">woa</HI>
083.sgm: ) and the children ( <HI REND="italics">papusch</HI>
083.sgm: ), giving them the appearance of Titus heads.  Occasionally the men wear quite long braids, stiffened with a resinous fluid so that they stand up stiffly.  These are regarded as very decorative and are ornamented with red or white feathers for ceremonies or warfare making them look like the tuft of the hoopoe.  Like all North-American Indians they have but little beard ( <HI REND="italics">liptasch</HI>
083.sgm: ) and these are ordinarily pulled out but in case of mourning are allowed to remain.  The women ( <HI REND="italics">squa</HI>
083.sgm: ) and girls ( <HI REND="italics">wintscha</HI>
083.sgm: ) wear their hair neatly combed and unbraided so that it flows in gentle waves about their shoulders and is held in place with strings of shells or beads (aga&die;hlala) worn on the forehead.  The Allequas wear ornaments in their ears, some received from the whites and others made of wood in imitation of these.  Only those living in the distant mountains wear wooden or iron rings in their noses.</p><P>At five years of age the girls are tattooed with a black stripe from both corners of the mouth to under the chin.  A stripe is placed parallel to this every five years so that the age of every Indian woman can be seen at first glance.  These daughters of the wilds are ignorant of the way in which civilized ladies count or conceal their years.  The men paint their own faces on special occasions with a fir sap varnish which they make themselves.  They draw all kinds of secret figures and decorations on cheek, nose and brow by taking off the soft varnish from different places on the skin by a small stick.  When the varnish is dry it is a reddish brown while the places from which it has been removed retain their natural color.  This tattooing does not disfigure the face but the elliptical lines drawn symmetrically from the brow across temples and cheeks give the face a fuller appearance pleasing to the eye.  This shows the skillful hand of the Allequas and their taste for more complete, more beautiful outlines of human form.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>The man goes completely naked in summer; in winter he wears a self-tanned stag or doe leather blanket about his shoulders.  He is always provided with bow and arrows which he carries ready in his hand or on his shoulder in a fox or beaver fur quiver.  The bow ( <HI REND="italics">smotah</HI>
083.sgm: ) is made of strong, elastic red fir roots, about three and a half feet long, with a bear sinew pasted over the back of it to give it greater elasticity and more strength.  The Allequa bends it very easily with his strong arms.  They have still larger bows which they use for long distance shots.  One of these is six feet long and the Indian bends it by lying down on the ground, bracing his knee on the bow and helping along with both arms.  Some of their arrows ( <HI REND="italics">nekwetsch</HI>
083.sgm: ) are reed and some finely spaped cedar.  The upper part of these is provided with two rows of feathers drawn across the shaft and their points are made of volcanic glass, fine gravel, iron, or ivory.  The glass arrows are the most dangerous.  Their points are one to one and a half inches long, three cornered and jagged and are fastened to the arrow by resin.  When these arrows penetrate the body the glass usually splinters on the bone; the wound festers quickly and is deadly.  The barbed iron hook is only fastened lightly to the arrow so that when the arrow is drawn from the wound it remains in the body.  The ivory points usually become completely imbedded in the body.  The arrows are occasionally poisoned with the sap of the sumac tree and then used only to kill wild marauding animals.  Besides these the Allequas have the following weapons: the obsidian hatchet or tomahawk, the club, the lance and the spear.  They are also usually provided with knives ( <HI REND="italics">tschalisch</HI>
083.sgm: ) similar to <HI REND="italics">machetas</HI>
083.sgm:, which they have made either from steel picked up on the beach or obtained in trade from the whites.  Once on the Klamath River I was offered for my deer-knife a <HI REND="italics">canot</HI>
083.sgm: ( <HI REND="italics">yatsch</HI>
083.sgm: ), several beaver pelts, and a bow with quiver and arrows.  The Indian who was so eager to effect the trade ( <HI REND="italics">tschikwatsch</HI>
083.sgm: ) was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:a chief and I would gladly have acquiesced in it if some Americans had not been present who, hardened against all feeling, threatened to fight me if I fulfilled the desire of the Indian.  The Allequas' hunting, war and triumphal cry penetrates bone and marrow and their shrill cry for aid can be heard above the roar of the stormy sea.  The swiftness of their steps is like the vanishing of a running deer and to show me their marksmanship they shot arrows at a ten cent piece at a distance of twenty paces, hitting it six shots out of ten.  The gun ( <HI REND="italics">bakschoss</HI>
083.sgm: ) of the whites cannot yet replace their bows and will not, just as long as they know that they are able to call forth with these the admiration of the whites for which they always strive.  Admiration makes them proud and flatters them, a trait characteristic of all Indians, which can be easily understood if one is familiar with their great self-confidence, bound up with or based on strength of will and soul.  The redskin softens all his pain and sorrow in this invulnerable self-confidence and is therefore never consciously unhappy.<ANCHOR ID="n6-3">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: Sometimes, when I was observing a group of Allequas, deep in thought about what in a superficial examination of these naked people and their living conditions seems pitiful to the humanitarian, they laughed mockingly at me and the group broke up as if they were being shamed or insulted by the sympathy of a white man.  "Don't weep about us, weep about yourself," seems to be the redskins' answer to the sympathy of the whites and I cannot blame them for it.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-3">War stories give enough examples of the Indians' great self-confidence, strength of soul and will about which one might cry "Death!  Where is thy sting!  Hell!  Where is thy victory?  Like the Roman, Mucius, roasting his hand in the glowing flame while he stared at his enemy with the Roman glance of proud tranquillity, the Indians, governed and ruled by their self-confidence, but also striving for admiration, calmly offer their lives to their tormentors.  This characteristic stoicism in the bearing of pain which is said to be heathen gives them as much renown as skill in hunting or ability to surprise the enemy.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The Allequa women wear in summer knee-length aprons made of bark threads or deer hide strips and in winter of fur or goose down.  Their indispensable ornaments are decorated bracelets, <HI REND="italics">wampuns</HI>
083.sgm:, colored feathers, rings and buttons ( <HI REND="italics">tscha&die;mah</HI>
083.sgm: ) of which they are especially fond.  The <HI REND="italics">haihox</HI>
083.sgm:, the waterproof basket woven of finest bark, is as important to them as the <HI REND="italics">calabaza</HI>
083.sgm: is to the natives of Central America.  If the wood Indian is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:a mother, she regards her children as her greatest ornaments.  She carries the smallest of her children in a reed basket on her back and the older ones in her arms or on her hips.  A mother decorated like this gives a worthy picture of ever creative wild nature, where everything is strengthened by the strength of the sun and the milk of the planet and only withers because of shade or dryness.</p><P>The huts ( <HI REND="italics">mahla&die;math</HI>
083.sgm: ) of the Allequas are built of boards, which they have either found in ships wrecked on the shore or which they have split from fir trees.  The size of the hut is about sixteen to twenty square feet, the walls about four to six feet high and the gables about ten to fifteen feet high.  The door, if that name can be applied to the two-foot wide oval hole through which the hut dwellers crawl, is in one corner of the building.  The blood of sacrificial animals is sprinkled over the top of this aperture as a magic sign against the entrance of all evil, "so that the Angel of Death will pass over it."  The room of the hut is several feet below the level of the ground outside.  The fireplace is in its center and directly above it is a perpendicular opening in the roof.  This opening is used for both chimney and skylight and has a cover which is placed over it if desired.  The fire ( <HI REND="italics">metsch</HI>
083.sgm: ) is never allowed to go out.  Above it the pieces of pitch wood serving as matches are hung to dry.  The Indian splits these with his teeth when he needs them.  This constant fire is the surest sign of undisturbed family life and reminds one of the eternal light of the Catholics and the Jews.  The Allequas sit and sleep around it, that is, the oldest are always nearest the fire while the younger ones arrange themselves according to their ages.  The space in front of the huts is kept very clean and the court is sometimes covered with gravel.  If the settlement is a village the <HI REND="italics">ma&die;hlamath</HI>
083.sgm: are arranged next to each other in a straight line at intervals of two to four feet and surrounded by an earth wall.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:the center of the settlement are the graves, carefully fenced in and kept sacred.  No <HI REND="italics">woaki</HI>
083.sgm: can venture closer than three paces for they are guarded by the women who cry immediately for help if a bold fellow dares to cross this holy limit and who scold him with " <HI REND="italics">Qui malla!</HI>
083.sgm: "</p><P>The year around at daybreak ( <HI REND="italics">ahwoak</HI>
083.sgm: ) the Allequa goes to the nearby spring where he washes his entire body and then lets the rising sun dry it, a correct performance of the teachings of the original apostles of health.  The father of the family is the first to leave the hut.  He opens the chimney, stirs up the fire, and after he has allotted the day's work to each of his family he either goes hunting or gathering wood ( <HI REND="italics">nakoh</HI>
083.sgm: ) in the forest ( <HI REND="italics">thebbah</HI>
083.sgm: ).  The women make use of low tide to gather sea-food, while the children go to look for roots, acorns, edible berries ( <HI REND="italics">nekbrah</HI>
083.sgm: ) and wild potatoes ( <HI REND="italics">lokala</HI>
083.sgm: ).</p><P>Food is always prepared immediately before eating, never in advance.  Acorns are the main food of the Allequas.  They are crushed and stirred into stiff mush.  This is put into the <HI REND="italics">haihox</HI>
083.sgm:, spread on its sides and quickly baked hard by putting hot stones in it.  Occasionally a round hole in the ground in which clean sand is laid is used instead of the <HI REND="italics">haihox</HI>
083.sgm:.  After the mush is put in the hole it is covered with hot stones, then glowing ashes are heaped on it and the whole thing is left alone until the cook thinks it is ready to be eaten.</p><P>Oysters are also a popular and frequent food of the Allequas.  They are consumed in such great quantities that great piles of oyster shells are found near the Indian settlements and those found near the deserted Indian villages have often caused the carrying on of great geological researches.  These Indians would, however, lead a very sad existence if it were not for the acorns.  The acorn which serves as food for seventy different varieties of insects must here also nourish man; it makes him fat and keeps <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:him healthy.  People who are fond of acorn coffee would probably find their principles confirmed among the Indians.  To flourish on acorn nourishment one should, however, really live like the redskins who are first cooled off by rain and snow and then warmed by the sun.  The Allequas drink only water ( <HI REND="italics">pahha</HI>
083.sgm: ).  Civilization has not come close enough to them to give them other drinks in accordance with the Christian teaching of Solomon's proverb:  "Give strong drink to those who should be killed and wine to the sad souls, that they drink and forget their misery and think no more of their misfortune."</p><P>The Allequas' life is lonely, quiet and concentrated.  It might be called a close-knit family life, only the family is rarely together for any length of time.  The man is away hunting most of the time, while the woman stays at home with her children or the graves of her loved ones.  The chief ( <HI REND="italics">mauhemi</HI>
083.sgm: ) is very much respected; he governs the actions, life and death of his subjects and his power is hereditary to his first born son.  Polygamy is permitted the <HI REND="italics">mauhemi</HI>
083.sgm:; he is frequently the father of a very large family.</p><P>When an Allequa chooses his future life companion from the beauties of his tribe and wishes to marry her he must show the <HI REND="italics">mauhemi</HI>
083.sgm: a string of shells as long as his arm.  These are long black shells ( <HI REND="italics">hiaquay</HI>
083.sgm: ), as thick as a thumb and with a natural hole in them.  They are found only in the far north and are obtained by trade or war from other Indian tribes.  Their rarity makes these shells the highest money ( <HI REND="italics">tschikh</HI>
083.sgm: ) of the Allequas.  Besides the string of shells the bridegroom must possess several red feathers from which a former king in the Sandwich Islands, King Kamehameha, and also the present king have had made a costly mantle.  If the chief finds this purchase price sufficient the Allequa takes the bride home and gives her as a dowry these treasures together with other ornaments.  The string of shells <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:and the costly feathers are the hereditary property of the first-born son, so that when he is ready he can marry with ease while his younger brothers must first try to obtain the expensive purchase price of their brides.</p><P>The Allequa lives very chastely with his wife.  Only in spring is he, like all other creatures of the wilds, animated by the great spirit to create life and practice sexual intercourse which every year produces strong, healthy children who bloom quickly on the breast of their watchful mother.</p><P>These are facts which may seem without rhyme or reason to the physiologist and to understand them he must certainly become more familiar with them, especially when he sees the squaws' great development and the perfection of their nutritive system and compares it with their subdued and controlled sex life.  There are many things in life which like some verses or books require no rhyme or reason for being but are entitled to recognition.  Nevertheless Indian life has physical and psychological causes enough for this seeming anomoly.  It is the result of the stoical mode of life, the predominating plant food and because their outer and inner life is patterned exactly after Nature which surrounds them, and whose children they are.  Although the Allequa has no knowledge of morals in the abstract he practices a strict moral code by harmonizing his life with Nature.  He is slightly conscious of having this advantage in life over civilization.  That is why he has such a bad opinion of the whites whom he calls "palefaces" or "weak ones" because of the color of their skin and whose concealed sins and defects he sees sticking out all over them.  Contemptuously he and his wife punish the bold, lewd, "palefaces".  A dark red blush covers the cheeks of the maiden when the white man makes his lewd jokes about her naked body and stares lustfully at her.  This is a sign that shame is a natural human trait, although art must first awaken it in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:simple nature.  In this the maidens resemble Diana who responded to no sensual feeling but directed her feelings and glances towards the distance and seemed heartless and cold, rather than sensitive and gentle to the pleasures of love.  The Indians of northern California are on a higher plane morally than their eastern or weak southern tribal relatives who have been touched by civilization.  Those wild dwellers of forest and plain have been harmed as much as helped by imposed foreign customs, social and religious conceptions.  Lacking the necessary introduction and practice these were of course misunderstood and falsely applied to the wild mode of living.  If you would like to recognize an ideal human in the sons of the wilderness and understand Rousseau's Emil turn from those unfortunates and look far beyond where "Salvation of the Indians" has been carried on.  Go where naked man is still not ashamed of his nakedness; where he is still aware of his own power and inner strength and where no foreign nation has dazzled him with its seemingly marvellous phenomena; where Nature is all victorous, delighting man's spirit with her sublime creations and thus protecting him from the uncomfortable pressure of his sensual being.  But you had better hurry for these poor but happy human children will soon disappear before the oncoming whites "like snow melting in the dazzling sun."</p><P>The Allequas inure their children to hardships at an early age and instill in them great respect for God, old age and the <HI REND="italics">mauhemi</HI>
083.sgm:.  Their customs are wild and in their wild way they respect that which is honorable.  The father teaches his son hunting and warfare; the mother teaches her daughter to be a diligent housewife and the latter also learns to shoot with bow and arrow.  The children are trained to be active and happy.  Thus their lives are less a gloomy dream than is often the case among wild people.  Until the boys have completed puberty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:they are forbidden all contact with the girls; they must find sufficient diverson in the carrying out of their masculine occupations.  They are first introduced to the Muses of Nature before they meet the Graces!</p><P>The Allequa tribes in the northern part of Upper-California are no longer at peace with each other.  They often have quarrels which can be easily explained by the fact that like all primitive people they are governed not by the law of right but by the law of might.  They fight each other in every way, openly and in ambush.  During my stay in Trinidad a son of the <HI REND="italics">mauhemi</HI>
083.sgm: of the wood Indians of the Klamath River ( <HI REND="italics">Rha&die;kwa</HI>
083.sgm: ) was killed while hunting.  The excitement of the Allequas of Trinidad ( <HI REND="italics">tschura</HI>
083.sgm: ) was tremendous and they swore bloody revenge against their enemies ( <HI REND="italics">ihnek</HI>
083.sgm: ).  Twenty well-armed archers hurried over hidden mountain paths ( <HI REND="italics">layapp</HI>
083.sgm: ) lead by the unhappy father, their sixty-year-old chief.  They roamed the region for several days, killing some of their enemies and burning their habitations.  They found the corpse of their relative scalped and terribly mutilated, and they brought it back in its blood-soaked earth to their graves.  Then the whole tribe gathered there every morning for a week to mourn the dead, weeping and lamenting in monotonous songs.  The corpse was not buried until it was far decayed.  All the dead person's possessions were placed on his grave and it was decorated with baskets and shells, and then all was covered with flowers.</p><P>Later the baskets often become pretty little flower vases as their bottom soon decays on the damp earth and glorious flowers shoot up through the openings.  A flower blooming through a basket like this is a happy prophesy, and serves as a sign that the dead person has reached the celestial slopes.  The village girls can frequently be seen breaking off flowers from the graves of their relatives.  They have the highest respect for these but, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:following a natural impulse for grace and beauty, decorate their hair with them.  A characteristic trait of the feminine sex is evident here.  Even among uncivilized people or in the wilderness it can be called the beautiful sex not only because it is itself subject to beauty but because it rules by its beauty.  One recalls the women of Byron's <HI REND="italics">Island</HI>
083.sgm: with their glorious song:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>And plait our garlands gather'd from the grave<LB>And wear the wreaths that sprung from out the brave.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>"Love your relatives even after death so that they remember you in the realm of eternal life, from whence they came and where all men must go," says the Allequa in his religion which seems to be based on a longing for a long lost condition of existence which preceded this earthly life.  Like all primitive people he believes the beyond to be an imitation of this world but free of all the pain of earthly existence, the happy hunting grounds where the shades of the departed gather.  But he also believes in a migration of the soul which, if weakened by a wicked life goes into good or bad animals, and animals that are stronger and weaker, according to the wickedness of the life he has led, until after a long wandering in which the soul has expiated its sins it finally enters the celestial paradise.  He likes to own prairie dogs and their bastards as he believes that they are frequently bearers of such souls.  By having these animals much about him and eating many of them he tries to absorb their souls.  A soul can pass gradually from a lower animal into a higher one and upon reaching perfection, returns to the pregnant body of a mother.  This religion of soul migration is so very complicated that without sufficient knowledge of their language it is difficult to grasp its underlying idea.  It is equally difficult to discover the real meaning of the other esoteric religious customs of the Allequas as they attempt to conceal them from even the most intimate of their foreign friends.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>Certain animals and fruits have religious significance for the Allequa and are forbidden like the Sandwich Islander's tabu.  He is permitted to partake of the meat of deer ( <HI REND="italics">mauwitsch</HI>
083.sgm: ), sea lions ( <HI REND="italics">swega</HI>
083.sgm: ), hedge-hogs ( <HI REND="italics">kahwin</HI>
083.sgm: ), salmon ( <HI REND="italics">wuimosla</HI>
083.sgm: ), geese ( <HI REND="italics">kwakwa</HI>
083.sgm: ), ducks ( <HI REND="italics">nayamed</HI>
083.sgm: ) and all scaly fishes.  Pig and fatty bear meat ( <HI REND="italics">negwitsch</HI>
083.sgm: ) are tabu and only the aged women are permitted to eat these meats.<ANCHOR ID="n6-4">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: According to the modern strict interpretation of anthropophagy the Allequas also partake of human flesh or rather blood, namely that which they consume with their own lice.  They believe, like some of the other Indian tribes who place the ashes of their departed in water and drink them, that they thus absorb part of a dead soul which has gone over to this peculiar parasitic group because of a certain congeniality.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-4">The hatred these Indians bear against donkeys seemed remarkable to me.  Every time a white man arrived with such an animal they seemed to regard it as a new misfortune; I was unable to discover whether or not it had a religious significance.  I came to the conclusion, however, that the Allequas have a belief like that of the Phoenicians and Egyptians who believed that the donkey and pig were symbols of discord or <HI REND="italics">Typhon</HI>
083.sgm:<P>Sun ( <HI REND="italics">woanuschla</HI>
083.sgm: ) and Moon are worshipped as symbols of subordinate gods by the Allequa.  He prays to these in a singing way while walking, jumping and dancing, frequently doing this with such excitement on ceremonial occasions that this religious custom reminds us of the modern revivals which take place among certain religious sects of civilized people, dulling consciousness and losing religious concepts in the attendant confusion, while the part sensuality plays in religion is made very evident.  The bad spirit ( <HI REND="italics">maga&die;schkwa</HI>
083.sgm: ), whom the Allequa has endowed with the color of the whites, rules in the air and gives vent in storms to his terrible wrath; he worships the good spirit in the woods, in abundant flourishing nature, and with it also the spirit of nature whom he seeks while hunting.  That is the reason he is always out of doors where he feels happy.  Although he has none of the ideas about nature which make us happy and is only endowed with his primitive theories, he, in his simplicity, is made happier by the universe of "world valley" than we are who with all our theories about nature lack his naturalness.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>The Allequas, like many of their related tribes, worship the northwest trade wind.  According to their belief and mythical tradition it comes from the direction from which they themselves and all the whites came.  They believe that all men had a common origin and they are therefore inclined to treat whites peaceably and become fond of them if these are good and friendly.  Their good customs, skill, and clothing please the Allequa, and he occasionally makes use of the last.  He has already given names to the various articles of clothing ( <HI REND="italics">woa-kaya</HI>
083.sgm: ) as:  <HI REND="italics">akah</HI>
083.sgm: hat; <HI REND="italics">kahlin</HI>
083.sgm: blanket; <HI REND="italics">sla&die;kwa</HI>
083.sgm:, coat; <HI REND="italics">tscha&die;kwa</HI>
083.sgm:, trousers; <HI REND="italics">noahai</HI>
083.sgm:, shoes.  New ideas are very easily introduced into his simple, flexible, so-called onomatopoetic language.  Inflection and gesture are often used as aids to conversation; he possesses, like Garrick, true animation in this.  The hissing sounds are particularly effective.  They are produced by placing the tongue against the lower teeth and pressing the air between it and the hollow cheeks, something very simple for the supple Indian tongue, nevertheless, the Allequa language is limited and his need for expression might be said to be the more unsatisfactory because he usually has much intelligence.<ANCHOR ID="n6-5">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-5">The Allequa language seems very similar to that of the Sandwich Islands, at least many sounds and even words in the former are little different from some in the latter.  This fact, together with the formation of the face, the frequently small and slanted eyes could indicate a common ancestry or a relationship of the Allequas with the inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands.  It is difficult not to have the forbidden "implicit faith" in the theory that the aborigines of America emigrated from Asia or from the islands after this evidence has been seen with one's own eyes and not merely taken from observations made at home in the study.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The phrase: "Man usually knows more than he can tell" is clearly demonstrated by primitive people, that is, by people who from childhood onward know no other environment than that of creative primitive nature, who conceals more thoughts than she can express.  The anomalous products of her various realms plainly show her frustrated impulses to completely and correctly express herself.  She seems to show with this something comparable to the development of civilization, which may be, as Rousseau once dreamed, a going astray of man's destiny.  Inner man is the product of his environment.  It is perhaps true that even the civilized person who spends much time with nature partially acquires this trait which causes him to seek in vain for suitable forms to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:express himself in speech.  Though it make the traveler happy to go to the untouched wilds to satisfy his desire for the sight of natural phenomena, after a longer stay there he is certainly filled with longing to return to the scenes of civilization and art.  Only gradually after his return is he able to bring order out of the chaos of his impressions and to arrange his so-called inner language.  But he is never able to lift the veil from a certain something which remains the inalienable possession of his unconscious soul and about which he has only the faintest idea.  This idea is bound up with religious feelings about which one might ask oneself, "Are these not identical with those which make primitive man so happy?  Are they not the truest feelings because they are the most natural?  Were not these feelings implanted with the soul in the first man by the Creator and by their infusion is not man placed in the only correct relationship with the soul and its divine longing?"  This simple understanding has been lost in the confusion of humanity's civilization.  Will this destiny be found again in a sensible return to nature?  This is one of the most stimulating psychological problems of the wilderness, where there are enough of such "inexactly observed facts" and "mysterious laws" which could be understood easily enough if man were permitted to solve that problem of all problems, namely, to understand himself or the saying above the Grotto of Delphi: "Know thyself! so that you may achieve more success...."</p><P>I soon learned some of the Allequa language and had many conversations with my wild friends.  Naturally it took a great deal of patience which I fortunately possessed to a higher degree than the Americans who wished to have nothing to do with the Indians, saying that they are not human.  (The Indian is no man!)  Therefore the Indian hates the American, yes he despises him.  He makes no other distinction between nationalities but color and divides man into good and bad ( <HI REND="italics">skuya</HI>
083.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">quimalla</HI>
083.sgm: ).  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:He has learned to consider the Americans the worst of all as they have been the most heartless to him.  No wonder he feels this way!  I saw with my own eyes how the Americans stole their wives and daughters and treated them like slaves, how they brutally forced the men to serve as guides and burden-bearers!</p><P>The Allequas have a slightly developed phonetic sign writing but they are more accustomed to depict their ideas in symbolical kyriological pictures.  I frequently asked the chief the name ( <HI REND="italics">tenna&die;scha</HI>
083.sgm:?) of something or other and he would draw its concept in my pocket notebook with a pencil with which he always loved to scribble.  In this and in many other instances I observed the Allequas' intelligence and desire for learning.  The first thing they ask their white friend is his name "Kaluschkwa?"  (What is your name?) then they immediately give theirs which usually denote some outer or inner characteristic, feature or trait of the person, and have a pleasant sound.  Some men's names are: Tetawa, Neeschak, Tschimma, Schenna, Mawema, Tenna.  Some women's names are: Negawa, Homika, Tscha&die;kscha, Mirza, Seinna, Peyakwa.</p><P>The Allequas like sugar and bread ( <HI REND="italics">papschu</HI>
083.sgm: ), which they love to eat in spite of the fact that the unacustomed food gives them a stomach-ache.  At first they get angry at the person who has made the gift and the "Cigana Papschu!" (Give me bread!) is soon followed by "Quimalla woaki!" (Bad white!)  I occasionally cured the Allequas of such ills and was therefore respected as a doctor to whom, however, they gave the unflattering name of their devil or magician, " <HI REND="italics">Mahga&die;schkwa</HI>
083.sgm: " calling medicine, <HI REND="italics">Mahga&die;schkwa</HI>
083.sgm:.  Mahga&die;schkwa both causes and cures sickness and is therefore much feared and respected.  Their medical knowledge, if it can be called that, is restricted to several materials regarded as cure-alls, mixed and used according to certain prescriptions, like the magnetic <HI REND="italics">baquet</HI>
083.sgm:, which serve as charms, not to be taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:lightly, so that it is no wonder that doctor and devil seem the same thing to them.  The civilized world is not much better about it.  Medicine, man's weakness, must have been practiced very early among the Allequas, although not invented by them.  Like all earth's children they call as much for help when they are sick as a sympathetic person would like to help them.  They have taken no recognition of medicine although the Christian missions, whose duty it was to eradicate their superstition and medicine devils, brought it to them together with the blessings of faith.  Rarely, however, did they bring the proper understanding, merely veiling superstition in another form, like the proud medical profession which frequently changes systems without being able or wishing to relinquish confidence in the power of nature.  Though the Allequas lack art, nature serves them the more.  We are given much food for thought by the happy cures of physical ills effected by the magicians' various manipulations (massage, rubbing, etc.-- <HI REND="italics">kinesitherapie</HI>
083.sgm:!) and their excellent procedure in the removal of sick parts.  Animal magnetism, although not recognized as such, seems to play an important ro&circ;le in the lives of these and other Indians.  Think of the hypnotic influence on wild animals of a sharp look, like the snake fixing his eye on the frog whom he wishes to devour; of the gentle stroking of a selected (sensitive?) person, then confusing him with tobacco, touching his body and breathing on it so as to impart to him prophetic ability; and then think of the wild, stormy religious dances in which the dancers change partners, embracing each other while looking sharply into each other's eyes.  It is not astonishing that the miracles springing from such experiments based on the phenomena of animal magnetism often gave rise to religious theories among the Indians just as in recent times the same thing occurred among the Christians with their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:"somnambulistic table" about which another Galilean could say:  <HI REND="italics">e pur si muove</HI>
083.sgm:!</p><P>When I bade adieu to the Tschura-Allequas their " <HI REND="italics">Ayaque</HI>
083.sgm:!" (Greeting!) and " <HI REND="italics">Tschohho</HI>
083.sgm:!"  (Farewell!) were never ending.  The old Mauhemi said I should come soon again and in the meantime offered me his daughter, Negawa, whom I should buy from him, especially as she already partly belonged to me as I had drawn her portrait.  Had I, like a happy Endymion, even considered taking this simple creature from her modest happiness, where would I have obtained the expensive purchase price, especially the string of shells?</p><P>I left and could not suppress an inner bitterness that instead of trying to win these good people over to sensible civilization they were being constantly more or less persecuted.  A war of destruction was being carried on against them, the lords of the land, which is certainly not justified by our Christian religion on which we base our right to salvation.  The teachings of Jesus of Nazareth which have been everywhere used more or less favorably to advance civilization have gained but little ground among the western American Indians and least of all among those on the Pacific Ocean.  The Jesuit and Franciscan missions, because their aim was the civilization of the American Indian under religious forms, were probably the only ones beyond the Rocky Mountains that obtained any good results.  This good was easily accomplished, especially by the Jesuits, whose order founded on action contains within it all the elements to effect the independent attainment of its goal.  For instance, in Paraguay this order "gave the most wonderful demonstration of its ability and has added in the most effective manner to the welfare of the human race," says the English historian, Robertson, a Protestant who describes the Reformation as such.  The Jesuits, due to their political diplomacy, were soon aware that only by purposeful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:descend from the clouds and sit down on that small hill you see over there.  They said to each other:  `It is a spirit who has perhaps smelled our venison and wishes to eat some of it.  Let us offer her some, and they brought some to the maiden.  She was satisfied with their present and said: `Your kindness shall be repaid.  Come to this place thirteen months hence and you will find something that will serve to feed you and your children's children and shall be of great benefit to you and them even in the furthest generations.'  This they did, and to their great astonishment found plants, the like of which they had never seen, but which from this time on were of great service to them and which they afterwards planted.  Where her right hand had touched the earth they found Indian corn, where her left, beans, on the place where she sat, tobacco, etc."</p><P>The good priest, not at all content with this vain tale said:  "What I told you were sacred truths, but what you told me are pure fables, stories and preposterous things."</p><P>The Indian replied angrily:  "My brother, it seems that friends did not do justice to your training and have not taught you the proper rules of general politeness.  You see that we, who understand these rules and practice them, believed all your stories; why do you refuse to believe ours?"</p><P>After such unfortunate experiences it seems that a certain missionary tried to gain a large audience by dispensing strong drinks to his listeners.  An anecdote was later circulated about a Danish missionary who wished to convert the Iriquois.  He decided to be more economical and drink the liquor himself as he very reasonably assumed it was sufficient to give the sermon free of charge.  Quite a large crowd of Iriquois gathered and expectantly looked about for the customary drinks.  When he had finished talking and there were still no drinks forthcoming they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:shook their heads and asked each other in astonishment why this white man had called them together?</p><P>Is it surprising then that so many missions were fruitless among the American Indians?  Missions like those in the south and north which were sinecures for lazy scholars who were pandered to by the converts and those still to be converted.  Missions which you at home who hear always of sacrifice and danger, who even frequently honor the missionary as a martyr and saviour cannot even imagine.  The majority of our Catholic and Protestant missionaries seem to agree at least in this one point; that it is more pleasant to dwell in the south in the shade of the palm and olive trees than in the harsh north and that the body must be cared for if the soul is to be preserved.  <HI REND="italics">Sapienti sat</HI>
083.sgm:!  The poor Indians in Northwest America are also waiting for their Saviour; may he come to them some day!  They will not crucify him.</p><P>Similar feelings, certainly cherished secretly by every friend of the Indians who has lived among them, made me aware that the history of the origin of this remarkable people is still completely shrouded in darkness and that their existence will even become legendary.  Ethnologists have attempted to attribute a history to them but as this was done with the American idea of harmonizing everything with revealed religion and was prompted by a seeking for honor in the field of cosmological theory, it found little recognition in scientific circles.  The direction taken was not unfounded, however and should probably be more deeply investigated.  There is much to be said for the theory that the Indians are descendants of the Israelites.  Hebraic traits are found not only in their physical structure but still more in their religious ideas, customs, laws, myths and legends, to which they so fervently cling, as well as in their language with its more than 200 dialects pointing to the Babylonian babel of speech; in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:short, Hebraic traits are found in all their peculiarities and distinctions.  Although their views in regard to a divine being are different and more savage, stripped of all original beauty and truth like their mode of living, an intuitive religious research would find that their belief, like that of the oldest people on the Ganges, is based on an eternal and invisible God who created the world which came into existence when this one divine being cleaved into force and counter-force.  Bound up with their laws is their belief in a resurrection and a judgment day after death, in a return of the great spirit and his constant presence, and in prophets.  Most of the Indian tribes have high priests, temples, altars and an ark of the covenant, which they carry with them on all their wanderings, never allowing it to touch the ground because they believe it to be sacred.  They have a calendar of four seasons, celebrate new moon and the feast of tabernacles, and sacrifice the first fruits of the season.  In September when the sun enters Libra and the two well known constellations, Poe&die;tes and Virgin, disappear, they celebrate their day of atonement.</p><P>The name Jehova even seems known to them in its meaning and the word "Ayowa", which they frequently speak and which the Americans gave as a name to one of their states, is a synonym of it.  The syllables <HI REND="italics">Ay, Ho</HI>
083.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Wa</HI>
083.sgm: are frequently used by the Indians.  The <HI REND="italics">Ay</HI>
083.sgm: has been compared not unreasonably, with the Hebrew <HI REND="italics">El</HI>
083.sgm: (God); thus the greeting of the Allequas <HI REND="italics">Ay-A-que</HI>
083.sgm:! would mean "God be with you!"  Although their laws for peace and war, for eating, sacrifice, cleansing and marriage have suffered many changes in their daily life and in the mingling of the tribes, they still show a common origin.  All the Indians have food which they mark as impure, but not all have marked the same things.  They learned to take their natural tendencies and needs into consideration.  Scaleless fish, crawling animals and singing birds are tabu for all the Indians.  I found that only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:"Kosher" vessels were used by the Allequas in the preparation of their food.  Each food had its special cooking basket which was thrown away if it was contaminated by contact with another food.  That is why countless undamaged cooking baskets are found near Indian settlements.  The eloquence of the Indians and their parabolic, biblical, friendly way of expressing themselves is particularly reminiscent of the Israelites, as well as the assonance of their names; the common name Nenschak always sounds to me like Isaac.</p><P>Like the Israelites, the Indians do their work with one hand and with the other hold their weapon (Nehemiah 4, 17.).  In short it is not an impossibility that they came from Asia, the cradle of humanity, and are descendants of the ten tribes of Israel "who were lead captive by Salmanazar, King of Assyria, at the time of Josea `and who agreed' to leave the crowd of heathen and go to a far country where no man lived," and taking a year and a half to reach there.  This theory is especially plausible if the cloud of smoke by day and pillar of fire by night with which they oriented themselves on their wanderings were interpreted to be volcanic eruptions of which many were found in former times on the east coast of Asia to Bering Straits, and extending from there along the western coast of America.  The prophecy about placing the staff with which they traveled in the earth until it took root did not come true until they possessed all America.</p><P>This great expansion of the Indians over the entire new continent shows that they were not a conquered or subjugated race but rather the conquerors of other American aborigines, from whom the Aztecs and natives of the Andes were perhaps descended, who established a certain degree of civilization on the west coast of America at a time when the eastern slopes of this hemisphere were not even capable of human progress.  These American natives and presumable enemies<ANCHOR ID="n6-6">*</ANCHOR>
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083.sgm:be designated as descendants of the Canaanites driven out of Syria by Joshua 1450 before Christ.  The founders of Carthage, who were also descended from them, built scenic and commercial thoroughfares, bridges, canals 500 miles long, and other monuments like those of their contemporaries in Egypt and on the Ganges.  Every thing speaks for this theory of resemblance to the Phoenicians; it is shown by an exact examination of the Inca and Aztec ruins and especially the recent discovery of a pyramid in the Colorado desert built in the Phoenician architecture of this artistic nation whose every city was a state in which a royal palace was built, who lived in the same luxury and wealth, who possessed the same weaknesses, vices and evils, who made war in the same way and celebrated the same ceremonies on their holidays (disguising and masking), who knew the Egyptian symbol of the cross, who favored idolatry and animal worship in their sun temples, reminding us of the worship of the Serapis idol in Alexandria, and who had the same writing and language characters.  All this could not have been merely accidental similarity in the wilderness but speaks for this designation.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-6">Enemies because the entrance of the newcomers restricted them in their territory; restricting them not so much in their religion, however, because even the Egyptians adopted new religions.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>Thus it is not going too far to accept the theory that the Indians conquered the Canaanites, who were settled in the southern and more fruitful territory and whom they regarded as hostile, in fulfillment of the words of the prophet Isaiah who said: "And it shall happen on that day, that the Lord will put forth his hand again the second time to acquire the remnant of His people which shall remain, from Asshur, and from Egypt, etc.  And he will lift up an ensign unto the nations, and will assemble the outcasts of Israel; the dispersed of Judah will he collect together from the four corners of the earth.  And there shall be a highway for the remnant of His people, which shall remain from Asshur, like as it was to Israel on the day that they came out of the land of Egypt."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VII</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>On to the Klamath Region</p><P>LEAVING Trinidad I approached territory which was far from every touch of civilization and still bore the untarnished imprint of primeval country.  The charm of the wilds to which I had so soon succumbed in my short stay among the natives on the wave-lashed shores of the Bay of the Trinity was to take hold of the very depth of my being, driving my imagination along still wilder paths to its extreme limits while, mindful of the dangers under existing circumstances, through which I was about to pass, I surrendered myself to my wanderlust which bordered on fool-hardiness.</p><P>The following fact impresses itself on all: Every new environment, whether such be out of doors in plastic nature or of human variety, has a transforming effect on the nature of the individual.  If someone, who has been accustomed to live among books or in rustic solitude, be placed in surroundings so bold and wild, that he can hardly fit them in with his ideas about the world, they will soon make a new impression on his soul.  His thoughts will be formed in a sphere through which he will pass and which he will observe with a feeling of strangeness after his return to his former accustomed mode of life.  Therefore, although the pictures about to be presented, as well as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:preceeding ones, may seem extremely strange to the reader, I believe them to be justifiable if their peculiarity be emphatically pointed out beforehand and its origin explained.  The traveler is forced to thus express his experiences and discoveries if he does not wish to repeat old material again in the same way.  Even, though he be a whale who guzzles his food whole from the entire region, separating it in his head, he is rarely able to find something extraordinary about which he can cry "Eureka!  I have found it."</p><P>My trip to the Klamath region was rich in joyful and sorrowful experiences, which are so piquant to the memory, that in these travel pictures, they must have the effect of luring the reader's fancy to the scene of the journey and quickly and vividly familiarizing him with its general conditions.  When I look back over the imposing mountain and forest scenery, all the glamorous experiences are brushed aside and I am conquered by the feeling engendered by nature, powerful and challenging, who fills my thoughts.  It will suffice to mention only those events which will give a true picture of the journey without making it too subjective in character.</p><P>The heavy snow fall had lessened by the beginning of March or had confined itself more to the interior of the mountain country where for the present it hermetically sealed the new Eldorado against the advancing gold seekers.  They were spread along the sea-coast and lower river courses to meanwhile slake a little their unquenchable thirst for gold.  The ambitious mining people resembled besieging forces who at the first signs of weakening were prepared to storm the snow-armored fortress of their bitter enemy, winter.</p><P>Many returned and brought such different mining fairy tales that it did not seem advisable for the others to depend on them and each decided to go and see the "elephant" for himself.  An expedition was soon formed, both, to find out the true facts and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:to explore the mining region for the shortest and best way to reach it.  With five companions I preceded this to the mouth of the Klamath River, ninety-five miles north of Trinidad, from where we went up the river in Indian boats.  We had food with us for eight days and the worst of it was that we had to carry it ourselves as we could not use pack animals because of the rough country.  Because of hostilities which had recently broken out among the Indians, we were unable to obtain them as guides for such distances.  Our thoughts were cheerful, however, because, the greater the daily exercise, the more rapidly our burdens were diminished by our healthy appetites stimulated by the sea air.  the first twenty-eight miles brought us directly across the slopes of the coast range to a deep sea cove from which the shore extends straight to the north in a broad stretch of sand.  The region is torn by many gorges and gullies which give it a wild appearance and seemed to have been caused by the tearing up of a mountain chain the debris of which has been trundled far out to sea.  The dirty path winding and twisting up hill and down dale on which in our high boots we sank kneedeep in the mud made walking most fatiguing and caused forebodings of the discomforts yet to come.</p><P>Before descending to the sea we encountered one of civilization's desperate attempts to erect a habitation on the lonely plain.  A log cabin, one of those picturesque buildings which pleases the eye of the wanderer in the American backwood's ravine, but which can only enchant him for a short time, stands here on a piece of unfenced cultivated ground.  A thin cloud of smoke rising from the crooked chimney made of clay and wood, showed that it was occupied.  In effect; the Irish colonist "Old Patrick," whose name is known all up and down the coast of Trinidad, lives here.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:also became convinced that the old settler did much to increase the wild man's hatred of "fire-water," for he was not only their first sight of civilization but later when he was frequently drunk he showed them degenerated civilization which can only fill a natural human with disgust.</p><P>Arriving at the ocean shore where the path leads across an earth wall two hundred feet high, which the waves are eating away, the eye is first attracted by the remarkable geognostic character of the place.  The layers of yellow to brownish-red sand are loose, mushlike or in firm stones, and are covered by grayish brown and blue layers of marl, containing in different spots, slabs of granite, mica, clay-slate and porphyry, old mountain deposits washed down from the neighboring heights.  Orange yellow and rusty brown sulphuric iron masses share the geognostic conditions of these layers, penetrating them here and there while these change off with other layers containing only river shells, and ferruginous springs trickle out of other places.  Remains of corals, fishes, lobsters and land animals are also found here.  I am certain that a more exact examination of this place would show it to contain a new deposit of the <HI REND="italics">Missurium</HI>
083.sgm: and other primitive monsters and would be able to connect them with some of the Indian traditions which are preserved to this day.  One is overcome by a pious solemnity in reflecting on the many mysteries contained in these earth layers which resemble leaves of a folio in which the history of many centuries is drawn, perfectly arranged one above the other, but whose turning requires a lifetime of study.  It is impossible to crawl along these walls, which at times enclose us in a "book and antique room," without regretting that the waves of the sea are little by little sucking away and devouring this classic soil.  Exalting reflections are stimulated by the thought that "never resting Nature" is just by this process completing her work of creation and destruction <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:contemporary flood time.  They lay with their roots pointing vertically to the sea while most of the other kinds of trees had been washed up in a crooked or horizontal direction.  If a trunk is washed up by the usual waves to a point where they cannot reach it again for a whole year it stays in a horizontal position.  But the larger waves which reach the lagoon only once a year several times in the month of September will turn it bit by bit on its axis, that is the lower part of its roots embedded in the sand.  When the trunk is in its vertical position the September waves spread over it and cannot budge it any more, but the yearly soaking with ocean water and the drying out by the ocean breezes which follows serves to harden or petrify the wood.  If you think how many years it probably took to bring these pines from the place where they were uprooted and place them in a vertical position on the shore and the many required to petrify them, centuries do not suffice for their age which is the more astonishing when their enormous length and thickness is considered.</p><P>There is a small settlement of Allequas at the southern end of the lagoon.  They are called Lagoon Indians, are related to the Tschuna-Allequas, and are under the same chief.  A young Indian girl in a blue Indian dress like that worn by the West Indian ladies caused quite a sensation both among them and us.  She had found it with other things in a box washed up on the shore by the sea and flattered herself on her <HI REND="italics">Woa-Kaya</HI>
083.sgm: which she considered a special gift from her patron goddess.</p><P>Fashionable Wietscha had already assumed a very marked degree of vanity and coquetry and would have certainly aroused jealousy among her friends had they each not had the privilege of taking turns in wearing the dress on the other days of the week.  Even in the eyes of the Indian, clothes make the man and nudity is the <HI REND="italics">Reme&grave;de contre l'amour</HI>
083.sgm:.  I believe that I felt and observed this in other respects.  The paradisaical myth is still evident <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:today, but is only shown among the Indians after they have once donned the colorful wrappings of the sinner.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Its just dues the eye exacts<LB>No naked heathen me attracts<LB>I with joy undrape her charms<LB>When love calls me to a woman's arms.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>The way led us over loose sand along the seashore, sometimes just missing a wetting by the waves and then again circling crumbling promontories or climbing over them at low tide.  To our right rose the coast range sometimes in gentle slopes and sometimes in steep cliffs close to the edge of the sea.  The eye, tired from the wide expanse of ocean, gladly turned to follow the eagle's flight across the fir clothed heights and valleys as he circled above his forest refuge keeping a sharp lookout for inviting edible flotsam of the sea.  Going is very difficult in this sand which becomes softer the farther away you get from the water's edge and is arranged in vari-colored stripes, but predominantly black up to the gravel and boulders.  The waves washing over it spread it evenly according to its specific weight and the size of its grains.  We usually stayed close to the water as the finer wet sand there made the ground firmer but the moment a larger wave came we had to run for it.  Several feet away from the water I noticed that every footstep made a crunching noise in the sand, like the sound of footsteps on newly fallen snow with a frozen crust.  This seemed most peculiar to me as it occurred only in sand of a certain grain and consistency.  When it was necessary to walk on the upper, looser layers of sand we proceeded in single file, each stepping in the other's footsteps so that only one had the labor of breaking the way.  Thus monotony was broken by constantly changing our way of walking and by watching our steps we discovered many lovely bits of stone and shells.  For as long as we traversed this route the ocean delighted us at night with its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:phosphorescent waves, the "Love-fires" of the Nereids and <HI REND="italics">Peridines</HI>
083.sgm:, which from a distance looked like the zigzag of lightning and from closeby, like a moving silver thread.</p><P>On the second day of our journey along the coast we passed two lagoons.  On the first of these is an Indian settlement hidden behind some hills in the foreground.  When the inhabitants discovered us they approached us with joyful cries of welcome and greetings, some in <HI REND="italics">canots</HI>
083.sgm: and the others wading through the lagoon.  They wanted <HI REND="italics">Papschu</HI>
083.sgm: and the women tried to lend more emphasis to their begging by touching our limbs and pockets in a most unpleasant way.  Then they invited us to visit them in their huts.  Both men and women offered to carry the strangers through the water on their naked backs.  Like Hercules we stood undecided at the cross roads, but after a short deliberation and taking into consideration the flattering begging virtuosity of our redskinned friends, we decided not to visit this Indian Olympus.  At the next lagoon a young Indian, spirited and brave looking, came running toward us holding high his bow and arrow, and telling us to stand where we were.  He hesitated, however, when he noticed our weapons and would not come closer until we answered his greeting.  He then asked the object of our journey and asked for some gifts of friendship.  When we gave him some glass beads and some zwieback he told us his mission.  He was a messenger sent by the Allequas from the settlement at the mouth of the Klamath to bring to the friendly settlements along the ocean the bad news of the reopening of hostilities with the mountain Indians.  The year before the latter had summoned all the Allequas on the coast from Trinidad to Klamath to unite with them to prevent the entrance of the whites into the interior of the country.  The Tschuna-Allequas seeing the futility of such resistance, refused the summons, thereby making themselves the enemies of their allies, as the Indians regard neutrality as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:fearful that the enemy would discover our camp, had thought it wise to hurl into the sea the still glowing embers of our fire-wood so that they would be extinguished.  These embers were making the hissing sound.</p><P>In many situations I have listened to the clear sounds of night but nowhere do they seem to me so effective as near the ocean.  The air here in the cool winds has greater elasticity than on the heights, and permits of a quicker and easier continuation of the tone which modulates in the distance like an echo.  The constant roar of the sea seems to stun our senses but it delights us, because it is not a suddenly interrupted sound, but spreads sonorously on the tense air as over a sounding-board.  I do not believe that an orchestra can touch or speak more poignantly to the soul or for example can more realistically present "Musketryfire" and "Cannon Thunder" from the "Battle of Austerlitz" than does the nightly roar of the ocean in which one can easily pick out the high C of the pianoforte.  The receptive mood finds its greatest delight in nature's uninterrupted, measured activity to which it is accustomed.  In the thunder of the waves occasional pauses have a peculiar effect on this mood.  When such an interval lasted too long I was always in a condition of strained expectancy, feeling it necessary to rise from my sleeping place to discover its cause.  It is a fact that nature often creates impressions which turn back the years of man to childhood, I might say, make him completely the child again who strikes the table on which he has bumped his head and reaches with both hands for the moon.</p><P>On the third day we doubled the speed of our steps and soon reached the mouth of the Redwood or Smith River.  But first we encountered a horrible sight.  A dense swarm of screeching seagulls and sea-ravens flying to and from the shore made us suspect the presence there of a carcass.  We soon saw a headless <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:half-consumed human corpse on the sandy shore.  Throwing stones to drive away the greedy animals and shuddering with aversion we approached the corpse; but the strong odor of decay permitted no long inquest.  From an American boot which the unfortunate fellow still had on his right foot and an anchor and star tattooed on his arm, we concluded that he must have been an American sailor.  We buried the torn and gnawed body in the sand as best we could, covering it with stones, and turned disconsolately from it.  The greatest wish of a wanderer through little known regions should be that he never have an encounter of this sort, as it is highly discouraging, unsettling and frightening.  In the first moment one is filled with revulsion and fear that the corpse may be that of a friend or acquaintance.  Even though curiosity can be overcome, the sense of duty cannot.  These are the mortal remains of a human being and one must approach them to offer, if possible, the last service of burial.</p><P>Now we had to cross the Redwood River.  It flows into a quiet delta, then rushing over the sloping shore beside a rocky promontory, it empties into the sea, where it has made a sand dam in front of one of the arms of the river.  We made a raft from some pieces of ship's wreckage and broken bits of masts on which the rigging still hung and rowed from bank to bank on it across the delta.  The crossing on this fragile vessel was very dangerous but we did not realize the danger until we had landed and shoving off the raft saw its boards and beams fall to pieces in the raging torrent, while curious and hungry sea-birds circled it.</p><P>Beyond the Redwood River the region suddenly takes on a different physiognomy.  The dense forests are only visible in the far distance and the coast range is more wild looking.  Grotesque pieces and slabs of gneiss, trachyte, and trap-rock lie scattered over the shore and even far out in the ocean some of these can be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:seen, looking like a dam elevated above the surface of the water.  The foothills are made up of Silurian heaps of ruins and the whole terrain, between the ocean and the coast range, resembles a deep mine.  Small brooks and rivulets, which show traces of gold, rush through and macerate it so that the ground is undergoing a regular breaking up process and little by little will be devoured by the sea.  The land changes off along the ocean from long stretches of coal-black sand to masses of black porphyry on which walking is very difficult.  Surely a landslide must have occurred here which devastated a whole strip of beautiful forest-clad coast.  We hurried on so as to quickly pass over this desolate place and kept on our way until long after dark that we might spend the night surrounded by other scenery.</p><P>We finally arrived at a small side valley closed in by dark forests with rushes and willows growing in the foreground, where we camped for the night.  After looking around a bit we unexpectedly found an Indian hut about which a deathly quiet reigned.  We thought it was uninhabited.  Upon putting our shoulders to the door, it opened, and before us in the bright light of the fire sat a group of humans who might have been compared with the gnomes in "Rip van Winkle."  We learned that they were Englishmen who had been living here while exploring the country.  The foreman of the group, Mr. Levington, welcomed us cordially gave us the best he could offer in lodging and food and told us some of his interesting experiences.  He was a naturalist, a man of scientific education, and it is to be hoped that his Journal will be published.</p><P>The mouth of the Klamath, the shores of which we hoped to reach on the afternoon of the fourth day is twenty miles from this place, the site of a deserted village.  Klamath City, a mile above the almost completely sanded-up mouth of the river, consists of Indian huts, tents and log cabins.  Very few of these were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:inhabited when we arrived, and the place had a desolate air.  On making inquiries as to our passage up the river we received very discouraging news, so much so in fact, that we were forced to discontinue our trip and to return as quickly as possible to Trinidad to prevent the departure of the remainder of our expedition.  The river, forced into a narrow, rocky bed between the mountains was so swollen and rushing that it would have been impossible either to travel up it or to walk along its banks.  We stayed here for a day, however, and visited the Goldbluffs.</p><P>The Goldbluffs are hills from twenty to three hundred feet high which for the most part are made up and partly covered by black gold bearing sand and cover an area of twelve square miles on the southern side of the mouth of the Klamath.  The Goldbluffs were the main point of focus for the tremendous gold rumors which had been spread early in the spring in San Francisco.  Ships soon landed on these shores and populated them with all kinds of adventurers.  Many immediately lost all their possessions during the dangerous and difficult landing, but they strode on to work, hoping in a few days to find the treasures of Attalus in the Goldbluffs.  The added disappointment of discovering that they had been deceived now plunged them in the lowest depths of adversity and misery.  There was gold there, much gold, but it could not be obtained because of a lack of knowledge and of necessary tools.  The gold of the Goldbluffs is so fine that it can not be recognized without a magnifying glass.  They tried to extract it by quicksilver-machines but the amalgamation was not sufficient because the pyrites and large amounts of magnetic sand prevented adhesion.  The only thing which might have been used and which would have certainly produced great riches was to have introduced sand-mills which would have put the finely crushed sand through a cooking salt and quicksilver process to produce gold.  This modern Argonaut <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:procession however did not spend much time in dreaming in the Goldbluffs but accepting the "bluff" it wended its way to other mining regions to search for "the black fleece."  Many thought: "The gold of the Goldbluffs, though impossible to extract because of its microscopic size, is great in quantity and must have been washed down from the mountains and therefore there must be much more still in the mountains and in much larger pieces which the river could not wash down," and so they went on to find it.</p><P>The Goldbluffs presented a melancholy picture of strength expended vainly in labor and of vanished expectations of fortunes, the picture of a desert in the desert.  Tents, torn and blown down by the wind, weatherbeaten provisions, broken tools and parts of unsuitable machines lay about everywhere, bearing witness to the Babylonian mining-life.  The gold seekers had rummaged through the black hills, turning them topsy-turvy and the disappointment felt by the miners, thirsting for gold, in their vain laborious work was plainly evident in the upheaval.  I climbed one of the highest hills from where I could look over the whole mountain, forest and sea-bordered region.  The even form and circular position of all those hills reminds one of <HI REND="italics">Chladnische Klangfiguren</HI>
083.sgm: and one is inclined to believe that like these, they are of earthquake origin.  The sea winds roll the sand from the hill tops so that they seem to be gradually flattening, probably, however, in great storms the opposite is true and the sand is blown up from below.  The rolling down of the sand makes a loud noise which makes me think of the hill in "el Bramador" in Copiapo Valley in Chile, mentioned by Charles Darwin, only here the sound could not be compared to "barking," but was nevertheless very strange and astonishing.</p><P>Two and a half days later we finally reached the Indian station on the first lagoon north of Trinidad.  Relieved for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:most part of our burdens and familiar with the route we made quick time and arrived in good condition.  To our great surprise we found our entire expedition here, provided with pack-animals, and ready for the journey.  They had suspected our journey to be unsuccessful and were therefore awaiting our return.  A new plan was made which provided that we proceed all together in a northeast direction into the interior.  As the snow was now gone from the mountains, we would try to reach the upper course of the Klamath.  Two Indians, who served as our guides, and a young Rha&die;kwa Indian girl, a prisoner of war whom we received from the Lagoon Indians in exchange for several presents and whom we expected to bring back to her tribe as a sign of our peaceable intentions, were the trophies of our procession.  We traveled again to the northern end of the lagoon from where we climbed the saddle of the coast range.  There was a good path across a grassy, fertile slope from which we could look far out across the ocean, glistening in the mild sunshine.  Towards evening the path led us to the beginning of the fir forests.</p><P>The sight of such a primeval California forest is exalting and sublime.  The first glance shows a certain democracy which tends to show itself everywhere in America, in nature as well as in the life of the people.  Everything is so huge and enormous that the world spirit can only gradually govern and control it.  We are filled with astonishment and piety at every step in these giant forests of the <HI REND="italics">Pinus grandis</HI>
083.sgm:, from six to sixteen feet in diameter and towering, one hundred to three hundred feet high to the very mountain peaks.  Exposed to the benevolent sunlight and to the land and sea breezes which lend their aid to the breathing of the forest, the evergreen crowns form an eternal realm of shadow above the damp earth.  Here the <HI REND="italics">Linaea borealis</HI>
083.sgm: grows, "blooming at its earliest age modest and despised," eking out its miserable existence surrounded by holly, brambles and other forest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:growths.  Here also the shaggy grey bear growls his sole prerogatives in this democracy.  The day is turned to night and night is terrible and as pitch black as a subterranean cellar.</p><P>One delightful drama after the other takes place before the eye of the wanderer who rests at the foot of these giant trunks.  Just before a thunder storm when the air is oppressive and dry, as it is in the summer months, the trees begin to crackle and give forth a peculiar, resinous odor.  In the depths of the forest a pale gleam is visible darting hither and thither between the trees in a ghostly way, like summer lightning.  The phenomenon repeats itself several times, getting weaker and weaker, until it finally resembles a pale, weak moonbeam, and you think perhaps that your eyes have deceived you.  This may be an electrical phenomenon which originates in the great quantity of pitch in the pines.  The strong crackling which precedes the light ray points to an expansion of the pitchy bark and wood mass by the warm thunderstorm atmosphere.  This in turn causes an electrical rubbing together of the molecules over the whole surface of the tree trunks.  The opposing electricity of the air, equalizing these electrically charged resinous surfaces produces the light phenomena.<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">Another remarkable phenomenon of these forests is the many spider webs hanging everywhere between the trees.  Their number increases after warm nights and they are like those we find in autumn in our woods at home.  Would it not be possible that they are in some way connected with the electricity in the air in that the forest spider is perhaps stimulated by electricity of the atmosphere to give off its web or the electricity of the forests perhaps attracts the web?</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The air in these forests is cool in the later hours of night.  We tried to make our watchfires burn higher even if the high flames burned the nearest trees.  The devouring element soon rages on the resinous wood, winding crackling up from limb to limb until the air was as red as a sea of fire.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>See the forest burning up<LB>The flames lick and suck<LB>Up they climb high and higher<LB>Soon all the wood will be on fire.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>Where the fire did not reach it was reflected in the purple light and night seemed to be turned to day.  But the thick clouds of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:seems to grow darker both above and below us.  Suddenly an open abyss gapes widely directly in front of us.  It must be Hell which the wanderer uncertainly approaches.  Then filled with astonishment the wanderer finally steps to the little forest brook, flowing gently between the towering mountains, where he takes a deliciously fresh drink.  Willows, aspen, birches, alders and the elfen bushes grown on its sand and gravel bank, where the fresh footprints of an Indian band, driven away by the approaching whites are plainly visible.  Numerous gorgeous <HI REND="italics">Washingtonia gigantica</HI>
083.sgm:, which might be called Creation's living souvenir are found in these dark valleys where the earth contains the greatest quantity of carbon dioxide as the best proof of the chemical theory that the air was richer in plant nourishment of carbon dioxide in former times than it is today.  Many of these forest giants have been burned out at the base of their trunks to make a hut, eight feet by ten feet wide.  This was done by the Indians to make their winter quarters.  Thus they seem to be the "Tannha&die;users" of this melancholy valley.</p><P>At noon of our second day of travel we arrived at the upper part of the Redwood River which is rich in salmon.  There are many such tree huts on its shores.  As I stepped into one I noticed something floating above my head.  I reached for it and grasped a hand which, when light was brought, proved to be that of a dead old Indian.  The corpse, strongly mummified with pitch and turpentine, lay with hanging arms and legs, bound with hide thongs to wooden stakes fastened in the ceiling of the hollowed out tree.  He seemed to have died a natural death as I could find no wounds on his body.  The corpse would certainly have been of great value to an anatomical museum but considering the circumstances none of us had any desire to take the dead man from his living coffin and we left him so, that he can attain eternal life in the Happy Hunting Grounds when he has grown into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:and entwined himself with the living creature which lifts its head so high to the heavens.</p><P>Our rest in the Redwood Valley was short.  Still bathed in sweat, the procession, having no Indian Christopher who could easily have gained entrance to heaven by a "Carrying-across-the-River" of the strange pilgrims, was forced to wade the river, climb the new mountain and hurry on so that we would reach the night camp on its peak as this is the only place which affords feed for the hungry and tired pack-animals.  Elk Camp is the name of the grassy place, which lies directly on the path at a height of six hundred feet and has an abundance of water.</p><P>This is the highest altitude in which the pine woods are found.  From here on the mountain peak which towers two thousand feet more, is decorated with lovely meadows, pastures for the ruminants of the forest.  Here and there snow fields twinkle in the sun in contrast to the green grassy alpine coverings.  We stand on the highest peak where the Indian, at sight of the heavens and the sun, forgets the danger and exertion he has suffered in his journey in being as near as possible to these celestial bodies.  The eye turns towards the east where countless mountain groups are visible, a <HI REND="italics">terra incognita</HI>
083.sgm:, creating the illusion of a wooded plain, bordered in the far distance by the horizon.  Turning towards the west we again see to the grey misty slab of water, the ocean.  Looking around the immediate surroundings however, we might think we had been transported to the midst of the Swiss alps.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Afar lies all that is strange<LB>The picture of Home is closeby<LB>And the heart feels a poignant change<LB>As with delight we happily sigh.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>The sight of the cheerful meadows, the gloomy forests at their edge and beyond them the grey, mossy boulders--nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:but the song of the alphorns is missing to turn my vivid thoughts back to days long past.  These coast alps also have their voices which speak to the spirit.  The brook rushes from rock to rock to the valley far below, the sea rages in the distance and the bear growls nearby in the woods.  This last voice, as terrifying as it may perhaps have sounded, did much to add to the entertainment of our expedition across the mountains.  The bold person mocked it, challenging the beast to battle, the timid fellow looked around for it fearfully all the time, and frequently imagined that the object of his fear was before him.  It could of course be true, but mostly it was not, and the ensuing panic caused general amusement.  On my mountain journey to the Klamath I heard a bear's voice about three to six times daily but never once saw the animal.  Considering the difficulty of transmission of sound in these alpen atmospheres the monster of California Fauna could not have been far away.  It seems that the grey bear neither fears nor hates the strange sight of man, but he has no desire to attack him when his hunger can be satisfied among the ruminants.  One day I witnessed a bear attack.  Part of the expedition had remained behind, suddenly they came running towards us, yelling wildly and shooting their guns.  A grizzly, exactly the size of a buffalo-ox, had caused the flight of the frightened fellows, but as soon as they made such a noise, he turned his back on them.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>We ran here, we ran there,<LB>We ran around and everywhere<LB>'Till each could hardly draw in air<LB>As if already eaten skin, bones and hair.<LB>Each ready to do for all his share<LB>But we waited in vain, there came no bear.<LB>In the wood all was tranquil and fair<LB>No sign of the ghost who had angered us there<LB>So now we all curse this tale of a bear!<LB></HI>
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083.sgm:<P>There is a small ash and maple woods about twelve miles from Elk Camp, which got its name from a nearby salt lick, because it was especially frequented by elk herds and also by the brown woolly California mountain sheep.  The path which seemed formerly to circle the woods, now leads through them and is fenced in for a short stretch.  Filled with vague anticipations and curiosity we proceeded to follow it.  "Through this pass must he now come" I said to myself and was almost afraid that I would see the wild archer peer revengefully at me from the bushes.  Then I suddenly stopped where I was, for according to our guide, we were standing on earth dedicated to the Indian warriors slumbering in their grave.  Standing on a spacious burial place, covered with gravel, the wanderer recalls the bloody battle of the whites with the mountain Allequas which occurred here in the summer of 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n7-2">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: Several green, freshly cut staffs, ten feet long and about as thick as your arm, were leaned against a maple tree the branches of which shaded the burial place.  These staffs are to be replaced every spring as a sign that the Indian's lust for revenge is still green and has not been satisfied.  We laid the lance-like staffs across the grave in the form of a cross and carved the picture of a skull and several other symbols into the bark of the maple tree as an enigmatical reply to the solved Indian proclamation of vengeance.  Any white man can learn what the savages of this region decided to do when they discovered these symbols.  If he goes to them they will cut a symbol, which has become stereotyped among them, into his forehead and send him home to his friends.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-2">The Indians also buried in their paths their dead, newly born children, in the belief that the passing women would take possession of their souls.  They also liked to bury their dead at the foot of a great waterfall or in the exact direction of its line of falling so that the great spirit who lives in the waters (I might almost say, Oerstedt's Spirit of Nature!) would protect them.  Near Niagara Falls such graves must be found from the earliest times, and if they be found, the age and time of the first Indian settlement of this region could be determined by the amount of receding of the water, which consists of about one foot each year, having already formed a gorge seven miles long, taking about 35,000 years to do this.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>We spent the third night in French Camp not far from Trinity River.  Another expedition which had followed us caught up with us immediately after our arrival there.  It consisted of an American, who had some mules packed with goods, and several Chinese whom we were glad to have as traveling companions.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:They were excellent examples of the greatest possible human endurance.  They had bamboo sticks, ten feet long which they placed across their shoulders and, tying the heaviest burdens on the ends of these, wearing wooden slippers they tirelessly climbed the steepest heights.  An episode soon occurred, however, which made this meeting less pleasant.</p><P>We had just prepared a fragrant supper from a freshly killed deer, the Chinese had drowned their fatigue in their favorite gun-powder-tea which they are accustomed to drink in rather Chinese immoderateness and all were ready to retire under the open tent of the heavens when suddenly a pursuing stranger came up gasping and looking about with a searching glance.  "Here he is!" he cried, throwing himself on the American, who had just arrived with the Chinese, and fastening both arms to his sides he cried: "Gentlemen, help me arrest this man....in the name of the laws of the United States....He is a great horse thief....and I am Mackenzie, police officer of Trinidad."  The whole astonished caravan came and lent their aid after a suitable examination of the facts.  Quickly a lynch court was formed, one of those rapid courts which were native to the Californian wilderness for a long time, and after a short speech the prisoner was examined.  Stuttering, he denied everything, but nevertheless the verdict on all sides was "guilty."  Only one point remained to be deliberated: "Should he be hung or transported?" was the question.  "We have no rope, no time and no desire to do this; let the rascal be tied and he shall return with the police officer and the mules," was the almost unanimous decision, and it was agreed to carry this out on the following day.</p><P>Quiet again reigned in camp but many of the curious gathered around the night fire where the horse thief with bound arms sat with his pursuer and Mackenzie told them about some of the police pursuits he had carried out.  I approached the group, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:standing at a little distance, observed first the pursuer and then the arrested man.  After the first few glances I recognized a strong resemblance of the first to a man whom I can only remember with horror, and suddenly, I realized that without doubt, it was he, himself.</p><P>Mackenzie was formerly a gambler and one of the cleverest whom I had seen in the gambling halls of San Francisco.  I met him there one evening when he was busy with the "Three Card Games," a game which either enchants the one who wants to gamble or forever frightens him away.  I was standing at a table, dressed in a Mexican costume and intentionally imitating the attitude of a Mexican gambler.  Mackenzie acted as if he did not notice me, adroitly slipping the three cards through his pointed fingers while entirely mechanically he kept repeating the name "Queen of Hearts," which was to bring him luck.  Then he let the cards fall in their regular order on the green table cover and strode to the bar where he ordered a "heart-stimulant."  While drinking this he looked furtively from under his hat brim to the table to see if any one had come up who was taking to heart his "Queen of Hearts."</p><P>Three "old looking young men," who had probably obtained much gold in the "mountains" but who had become "homesick at the damn'd work" and now, on the night before their return to "Old-Virginia" wanted to win a little more "Pocket Money," had sidled up to the gambling table, and one of them, who had taken a quick look at the three cards seemed to intend to play a little "trick."  Now the Three Card "Dealer's" glance was satisfied and his heart was sufficiently stimulated.  He "treated" the "Barkeeper" with his "Brandy Julepp" but stood a little longer at the bar.</p><P>"Quick, John, make a mark on it," said one of the three "mountaineers or gold diggers."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>The gambler immediately saw a thumb-nail scratch his Queen of Hearts.  "A sly hand that, but not light enough," he seemed to have thought; I could read it in his eyes and on his slyly smiling mouth.  Humming, he returned to his table where he threw down his cards with seeming indifference and asked for bets of six ounces on the Queen of Hearts.</p><P>"Six ounces?  I put ten dollars on her," one of the Virginians said, putting the gold piece down.</p><P>"As you like!  Whatever....! ...ah!  You have luck this time!" stammered the Dealer and began to mix the cards again.</p><P>He manipulated them a long time as he wanted to smooth out the thumbnail scratch on the Queen of Hearts and put it on another card in the same way.  He accomplished this perfectly and kept looking at me strangely as if he wanted to tell me: "Keep quiet! You seem to be a gambler too and know what I am doing.  Don't give me away, or ..."  This embarrassed me in my attitude of a Mexican so that I almost forgot to play the ro&circ;le.</p><P>"Again the Queen of Hearts!" he cried.</p><P>The miner, richer by an "Eagle" thrust his hand in his bosom and threw a leather sack, heavy with gold on the green table.  It was the entire "Boil" he had made in the mines--he was betting a thousand dollars.  They were lost.</p><P>The unfortunate fellow turned pale as death.  His two friends took hold of the gold sack, meaning to run away with it, but the gambler rushed at them, grasping them with his powerful hands.  All this happened in a single moment.  Noise broke out, fist fights were started and the whole crowd of people, the BULLYS and BRAMARBAS, as the intriguants of the gambling clubs are called, all became very excited.  First the sack of gold would be in the hands of the gambler and his accomplices, then the miners held it, and then it seemed to have disappeared altogether.  Finally it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:appeared again, right near me, and then it seemed to come toward me.  As a matter of fact it was forced on me by a long-reaching arm.  I held it in my hand.  Five minutes may have passed since I received it and putting it on the bar, I leaned against it.  But the gold sack was so heavy that every moment I thought it would fall down and it burned my hands like fire.  I could not return it to the gambler who had probably given it to me thinking I was his accomplice, without making the crowd suspicious.  At the same time I did not think it advisable to give it to the miner who had justifiably lost it by his own cupidity.  I handed it to the bar keeper and watched him weigh out a thousand dollars to the winner, and saw the self-deceived young miner, inwardly crushed and ashamed, make his unsteady way out of the door with his still half-filled sack of gold.  But the scene was still not over.</p><P>"And you there, you wanted to deceive me.... he! ...you played a bad trick on me...  You should have done something else with the sack of gold..." I heard the gambler's voice close behind me.  I turned quickly, he was talking to me for I saw him reaching for his six-shooter and coming towards me.  But a constable hurried up just in time and Mackenzie spent the night in the <HI REND="italics">Calaboose</HI>
083.sgm:.</p><P>Now I had him before me as the servant of justice, which he had certainly scorned often enough.  At first when I recognized him I was frightened, then I was indignant, thought it best, however, to keep quiet.  I went away and did not know which of the night's heroes was the greater criminal or deceiver.  Five momths later I learned the answer to this.  On August 24, 1851, Mackenzie and his companion Whittaker were hung by a rope as incendiaries before a crowd of 15,000 people in San Francisco and I happened to see him, dangling between heaven and earth, still fighting a hair raising struggle against justice whose service he had several times been able to enter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:during his criminal career, which according to his confessions appearing in numerous newspaper columns, was one of the greatest in California.  A horrible sight which neither time nor reason can banish from my memory!</p><P>"Accident" is responsible for much that is entertaining and instructive in such a pilgrimage of adventure but it also can cause a mood which can embitter all pleasure for days.  I had enough experience of this kind in my California travels.  I could not expect anything else in a land which without accident never would have become what it is, and where accident was law for almost everyone.  Accident is fate and no one can avoid his fate; to wish to would be presumptuous.  By frequent repetition of similar occurrences one learns to act correctly and to avoid the worst.  The knowledge of possessing such ability is one of the most encouraging features of traveling; it does away with the justifiable hesitation and fear of danger which is only known to him who lacks the courage and calm to meet it face to face.  Therein lies the truth of the maxim:  <HI REND="italics">fortes fortuna</HI>
083.sgm:!</p><P>From French Camp, after twice crossing the Trinity which flows in a northwest direction into the Klamath, we arrived at a former dwelling site of the mountain Indians, which is now called Bloody Camp in memory of a deed which soaked the earth in human blood.  Perhaps some time in the future when the American people live in these valleys they will found a town on this site and name it Bloodytown.  In the preceding summer a group of pioneer Canadian tourists were the first to enter this region and were the cause of the Indian burial-place we had found on the summit of the mountain.  They had a hard struggle here with their savage opponents, after two of their companions, who had been sent ahead, were found here terribly mutilated.  They pursued the Indians who fled down to the large settlement on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Klamath and they made the whole Indian village a sacrifice of flames and revenge.</p><P>Our two Indian guides left us at Bloody Camp.  They returned home filled with a foreboding of a meeting, which would prove dangerous for them, with their estranged tribal relatives who lived over the next mountain which we crossed on the fourth day.  They received us with an echo-shattering cry of surprise, more of pleasure than of fear.  They seemed to have sent out spies and to have learned that our expedition was not hostile and that we had brought with us an Indian girl of their tribe.  They came towards us across the river in great numbers in their slender <HI REND="italics">Yatschs</HI>
083.sgm: to receive their <HI REND="italics">Woa</HI>
083.sgm:, who we allowed to rush to them and with whom we suddenly transformed the avengers into friends.  We distributed several other presents among them and offered them a pipe to smoke as a sign of peace.  They seemed to like the tobacco ( <HI REND="italics">Rhawas</HI>
083.sgm: ), as they afterwards begged for it in larger quantities.  They then took us across the river in their <HI REND="italics">Yatschs</HI>
083.sgm:, all of the natives wishing to take part in this, so that there were frequently more of them on the boats than there were passengers.  They used sticks as oars, laboriously lashing the waves with them, while one after the other and all in unison, cried their joyful "Tchonah!" or "Onward!" They made themselves a great deal of work which looked very funny.  It was a regular effeminate, mongrel kind of rowing.</p><P>The expedition now divided into two parts; I stayed with the half which after a two day's rest continued its journey to the eastern tributaries of the Klamath.  The Rhakusa Allequas<ANCHOR ID="n7-3">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: showed us every kindness and invited us to sleep in their huts, in which we acquiesced, not, however, without a lively anxiety about exposing ourselves to the sweet souvenirs of Indian life, their characteristic vermin, which, however, spared us, thanks to its aversion to civilization.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-3"><P>The original names of the various Indian tribes of the Klamath region are as follows:</p><P>1.  Poh-liks, or Indians who live on the lower Klamath.  The tribes are: Wi-uh-sis, Cap-pels, Mur-iohs, Ser-a-goines, and Pa&die;hk-wans.</p><P>2.  Witsch-piks, Indians at the mouth of the Trinity on the Klamath.</p><P>3.  Patih-riks, Indians who live on the upper Klamath.  The tribes are: Ut-scha-pahs, Up-pa-goines, Sa-wa-rahs, Tsha-wa-co-nihs, Cok-ka-mans and Tschih-nahs.</p><P>4.  Hu-pahs, Indians on the Trinity River with the tribes: Oka&die;h-no, O-ga&die;hrit-tis, Up-la&die;-goh, Wi-la-pusch, Ka-la-tih, Patisch-oh, Kas-lin-ta, Ta-hail-ta, Sok-kail-kit, Tscha-wan-ta, Wuisch-puke, and Mi-em-ma.</p></NOTE>
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083.sgm:<P>Their huts like those of the Tschura-Allequas, are also built of boards in a miniature of our houses and certainly do not furnish any basis for the idea that the Allequa learned his architecture from the mole as did many of his eastern brother tribes.  The village, most of which was destroyed, still shows a very suitable plan in good taste.  Broad, straight streets and house floors carefully laid out with gravel must have made it look very pleasant.  The rubbish and ash piles of the destroyed dwellings have been cleared away, and buried and gradually one hut after another is being renovated.  But it will take the work of at least one generation for the village to reach its former size and form when one considers the labor involved for the Indians to fell trees, cut boards from them and make these ready for buildings as their only tool is the tomahawk.  No greater misfortune could have occurred for them than the destruction of their buildings which will cost their grandchildren many a sigh and bead of perspiration.</p><P>The region, beginning in the Klamath Valley, becomes more bare.  The forests consist mostly of hemlock firs.  Ironwood and sumacs cover some places on the fissured mountain slopes.  After the Trinity empties into the Klamath the latter river winds in a northwest direction to the sea, its upper course forming an obtuse angle.  Gold is found on the surface on its banks and also on the Trinity.  A fresh grassy covering decorates the depths of the valley where several places thickly covered with heart-shaped Indian cress make an especially charming impression.  The Indian name for plantain is "White man's footsteps"; we might call the Indian cress the <HI REND="italics">memento mori</HI>
083.sgm: of the redskins as it grows in profusion on their graves and follows the plantain.  We prepared a salad from it or boiled it and tried to accustom the Allequas to the tasty, juicy vegetable as well as to the "spruce" tea which we made from the young shoots of the hemlock.  They disdained the first but enjoyed the tea, only, however, after it became a little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:sour from fermentation which soon occurs in it.  "Accident," I thought and was somewhat disturbed that I had taught the Allequas the primitive knowledge of the preparation of an alcoholic drink.  The sight of the cresses growing more and more above their heads was, however, some consolation.</p><P>Again mountains impeded our further journey which it would take days to cross while between them, the Klamath forced its winding way.  Several trachyte and basalt domes rise steeply from the banks of the river whose slopes are covered with tuftlike iron and reddish masses that were easily recognized as products of extinct volcanoes.  At their feet lay valley basins that seemed at one time to have been lakes and now are filled with Diluvium containing gold.  The gold is only visible in such faint specks that it almost floats on the water and shows a bad prospect to the miner.  The gold region becomes richer at the Big-and New-Orleans-Bar, fifty miles from there, between the Salmon and Scotch rivers which pour their wild waters into the Klamath.  This is the northern portal of the Eldorado and now, dotted with towns, has become one of the most active mining regions.  To the southeast it is bordered by the sources of the Sacramento River and to the north by the Oregon mountains which contain <HI REND="italics">Plolythalamion</HI>
083.sgm: calcareous rock formations.  <HI REND="italics">Monet Shasta</HI>
083.sgm:, 14,000 feet high covered with its eternal snow and ice, rises in the center of this extensive plateau, 150 miles from Trinidad Bay, 350 miles from the Sacramento and about the same distance from Oregon city.  Its shape strongly resembles that of the Titlis of the Swiss Alps.  Like that mountain its icy-armored, snow-bearded, primeval Plesiosaurus head towers into the vault of pure air and under its icy burdens sweats clear little streams into the quiet, romantic regions of the Shasta Valley which is inhabited by the Indians.  A comparison of these Alpen kings of such widely separated lands is pleasing but the nature lover thinks sadly of the rich <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:pleasures which made unforgettable his visit to Titlis, the Parnassus of the Alps, with its homelike meadows stretching to the "End of the World," and which here exist only in his memory.</p><P>Like the lover who is outwardly resigned but who inwardly lives only for his ideal, the nature lover is filled with a longing for the revival of the emotion and companion of memory.</p><P>My intention on leaving Shasta Valley was to visit the northern mountain valleys of the Sacramento River.  New heavy snowfalls sadly warned us, however, that we must return.  It was impossible to obtain sufficient provisions there as the transportation of each pound cost two or three dollars.  There was also a grave question as to whether or not the natives would remain peaceable for any length of time as the Americans were stealing many of their women.<ANCHOR ID="n7-4">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: All those who had not gone too far into the mountains and were not already snowed in joined our caravan returning to Trinidad which followed in the footsteps of the raging second winter.  When we arrived on the sea coast the whole region behind us lay buried under the high, terrifying snow, and many a wanderer found his cold grave in it.  Many who escaped death returned impoverished from their expedition and harvested only regrets and bitterness from their most brilliant hopes.  But he who came to this region filled with eagerness for the boundless beauties of the greatness and exaltation of divine nature returned happy.  After a calm voyage on the steamer <HI REND="italics">General Warren</HI>
083.sgm:, I was again on the crowded shores of San Francisco in the realm of the world transformer, that delighter of humanity--civilization where <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>.....glorious emotion<LB>Disappears in earthly confusion.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-4">Six months later the revenge of the natives broke out, but the mountain people met it with a veritable guerilla warfare.  The authorities of Shasta City offered five dollars for every Indian head brought to them.  Human monsters of Americans made a regular business of getting these.  A friend of mine who was in Shasta City at that time assured me that in one week he saw several mules laden with eight to twelve Indian heads turn into the precinct headquarters..</NOTE>
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083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VIII</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>On to New Helvetia</p><P>A STEAMER at last carried me up the Sacramento to the plateau whence the first cry of "gold" rang out and shook the world.  It was a spring journey.  This is not only the most charming time of year among nature's phenomena but it brings forth many travelers on the Sacramento who afford much entertainment to the observer.</p><P>In spite of the great steamboat competition many passengers had boarded at the Long Wharf of San Francisco the famous steamer upon which I made the journey.  Most of these were miners who in spring can not resist the wanderlust.  They exchange the southern mines, because of insufficient water, with those of the north, usually interrupting their journey in San Francisco to take a look at the "Elephant."  What fates were to be read in the browned, bearded Indianized faces in which the eyes, shining with a fiery expression and drunk with happines met those of the observer, or hopeless from frequent disappointments or illness, avoided him.  The various nationalities were represented in the many languages spoken by this baroque crowd which could have told many strange experiences.  I turned away from this colorful crowd and leaning on the taffrail thought of other things.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Eliodori</HI>
083.sgm: was the first decent vessel to go up the sacred stream in March 1849.  It was followed on May 1 of the same year by the bark <HI REND="italics">Whiton</HI>
083.sgm: which carried the first freight coming direct from the Atlantic states.  Two months later there were twenty other ships at the landing place of the rapidly developing city of Sacramento.  From then on regular schedules were maintained with the coast city.  The mail was sent once a week although not without some pardonable uncertainty.</p><P>At this time the <HI REND="italics">Washington</HI>
083.sgm:, built with a slender propellor in Benicia, was launched.  Like a homeless creature it wandered about the stream, staying the night at its banks, but finally after one and a half days it arrived on August 11 at the Levee of Sacramento City.  The <HI REND="italics">Sacramento</HI>
083.sgm:, the next to follow it, was to run daily to the little town of New York at the mouth of the river where its freight was transferred to a sailing ship which carried it across the bay to San Francisco.  In September the <HI REND="italics">Miat</HI>
083.sgm: and some other steamers of the same power made several trips.  October 20 was the great day of joy on which the inhabitants of Sacramento City welcomed the glorious and powerful <HI REND="italics">Mc Kim</HI>
083.sgm: and in it saw the flower of their steamboat navigation.  But the next month the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
083.sgm: surpassed it.  From then on the number of Sacramento steamers increased to legion to the complete satisfaction of the American <HI REND="italics">Goaheadiness</HI>
083.sgm:.</p><P>In 1852 there were forty-two steamers on the Sacramento.  The largest of these were the <HI REND="italics">Senator, New World, Confidence</HI>
083.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Wilson G. Hunt</HI>
083.sgm: and daily these, with four or five others, brought from fifty to three hundred tons of freight, or two-thirds of the entire California imports, to Sacramento.  It was this colossal commerce that forever disturbed the sacred tranquillity of the Sacramento and formed a new world on its banks.  The green valley which barely a decade before had been inhabited only by Walla-Walla Indians, whose forests and meadows had been filled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:to overflowing with game, now vaunted its civilization.  The hunter now had difficulty finding the game which had formerly slaked its thirst at the quiet water.  It is considered phenomenal if a pelican flock, startled by the thundering noise made by a steamer, becomes visible for a moment and then flies on its way to the south.  The native Mexican looks sadly at the vanishing birds and making the sign of the cross recalls quieter days when he did not have to work.  Friendly, modern farm houses now decorate the bared shores of the Sacramento having crowded out the fishing and hunting huts and the wigwams.</p><P>A closer examination of these buildings, discloses their strange histories.  Usually the owner is a man who, pursued by misfortune, finally arrived in the Sacramento Valley.  He found that it was a pleasant place to live so he built himself a hut and took to salmon fishing and agriculture.  His fields produced 25. [omission] corn and his harvest became more bountiful every year.  The discovery of gold in the country, also, seemed to predict a happy future for him as it was now easy to obtain a good price for his surplus fruits.  The log hut became a decent farm building, the lonely planter became a solid citizen.  Then he made ventures in other business and was innocent enough to believe in the golden mountains which the Yankees told him about.  He speculated and suddenly he was a poor man and his possessions passed into other hands.</p><P>This happened to the settlers, Schwarz, Codua and many others who had the loveliest farms on the Sacramento.  Schwarz, an old Hollander who, because of his originality, is probably known to many a Sacramento visitor, was at first drill instructor of Sutter's Indians at Sutter's Fort.  Although these soldiers in their red trousers and sailor shirts had scarcely usable weapons he trained them in a short time so that they were the terror of all hostile Indians.  Schwarz, who had been a sergeant under Father <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Blu&die;cher and was still vigorous and keen in his old age, taught them to be fearless and courageous and shared all hardships with them.  Peace was to be found where he appeared with his wild <HI REND="italics">soldateska</HI>
083.sgm:.  This old Californian cherished his most sacred memories from those early days, for later years brought him only bitter experiences and ruin.  Often when he was speaking to me and telling me his experiences, for which he used a language mixture of all civilized and Indian languages, he would suddenly return to his Indian training days and wish himself back in those times.  He would choke down his sadness with his beloved <HI REND="italics">Geneva</HI>
083.sgm:, [wine] frequently getting himself into a condition in which he resembled the funny drill master.  He had the peculiar urge to go about barefooted, in shirt sleeves and bareheaded.</p><P>His farm is six miles below Sacramento City.  The passerby who knows its story cannot admire the lovely farm buildings without feeling sorry for the old Hollander who is permitted a bare existence next to them in the old log cabin which was his first shelter on the Sacramento.</p><P>Soon after my arrival in Sacramento City I felt the powerful lure of the mountains whose dazzling peaks in their white dress, like gentlemen-at-arms, stand watch over the ever pure virgin, New Helvetia.  Here one can live freely in beautiful nature with one's own memories.  The quite good road led me along the American River, across the dry plain, through the warm oak forest, where the nightingale's sweet song occasionally surprised me and where the California tufted quail returns from the plain to refresh itself in the shade.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: On past the pleasant taverns, the mile houses, the road gradually rises until it reaches the first mining valleys of the American River.  Marmon Island or Natoma, as it was called after a vanished Indian tribe, was the place where I first stayed.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1">Reading the reports of the enormous sacrifice of quail by the Mexican natives, it can hardly be understood that these delicate prairie dwellers of California and Mexico are still found in such numbers that they can be called the rats of the prairies.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The pretty little town lies on a somewhat elevated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:promontory of the South Fork not far from where it empties into the American River.  The bar at its foot has already furnished astonishing sums of gold and new miners are still going there.  It seems as if Midas had washed his hands here.  All possible technical attempts have been made to exploit the valley.  The hills were shoveled down to the valley and the river was raised from its bed to the hills.  Art had a hard struggle here with nature and was for the most part victorious.  The farmer is beginning to obtain fruits from his ground, stripped of its gold, and the merchant is exchanging his gold scales with a merchandise scales.  There are, however, still many square miles of land which retain their original character, where the ancient and ever-new clothing of nature shows only the most trivial of changes.</p><P>California mining flora shines here in all its glory.  At the beginning of April it unfolds all its dress and beauty, flowers everywhere, on hill and plain, along the forest, the streams and the path, everywhere are flowers in all colors, shapes and lovely fragrance; everywhere this colorful decoration of the earth meets the eye.  Heather forms the wonderful flower carpet, which varies from purest white through all the shades of yellow into orange, from flesh colored to reddish purple, from greenish blue to indigo, in a diversity of coloring that can really be called exquisitely beautiful.  <HI REND="italics">Andromedes, Arolees</HI>
083.sgm: and rhododendrons vie with the delicate cranberries, whortleberries and <HI REND="italics">Einbeeren</HI>
083.sgm:.  The common cowslip also shows itself in this fat soil, and her rosy sister, the <HI REND="italics">Primula farinosa</HI>
083.sgm:, is found in great numbers on the valley floor.  The buttercup, the <HI REND="italics">Trollblume</HI>
083.sgm:, the blue gentian, the little enchanter's nightshade, the bitter sweet, the nightshade, the <HI REND="italics">Vo&die;gelno&die;terich</HI>
083.sgm: are found and on the slopes the wild, many-leafed rose and white hawthorn blossom and many other plants which occur in both hemispheres.  Beauty never dwells alone and ugliness is never far from her.  The poisonous <HI REND="italics">hydra</HI>
083.sgm: lives among <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:this flourishing mining vegetation which by its mere touch or even by its vapor can cause the most violent skin disease.  It grows abundantly and cannot be wiped out, reminding us of the Lernaean hydra or the affliction which grows the more you try to drive it away and is like a noli me tanger above the earth filled with gold.<ANCHOR ID="n8-2">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-2">The wool of the California mountain sheep is frequently found hanging to these hydra bushes; it is probably caught while they pasture in them.  It seems therefore that these animals do much to spread these plants by tearing off their seeds with their fur.  These are washed off when they swim the streams and are thus deposited and planted around the country.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The new arrival in the mining valley reaches out joyfully with both hands, childishly unable to decide where he can pick the most beautiful mining bouquet.  The European feels as at home as if he suddenly saw again the flowers with which he played as a child.  You decorate yourself with <HI REND="italics">Guaresimas</HI>
083.sgm:, orange blossoms, myrtle twigs, violets, lilies of the valley, and forget-me-nots, those flowers of irresistible charm, are everywhere.  The mining paths wind in all directions across these glorious slopes.  Who would not call themselves fortunate to have once tread them?  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>When sunbeams rise<LB>Rosebuds in flames disguise.<LB>Oh, to have such happiness!<LB>The promise and largess<LB>Which rule in floral realm<LB>Eye and mind and heart overwhelm.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>From Natoma I proceeded down the lower part of the North Fork.  This river is one of the richest in gold in all California.  I found the busiest mining life here.  At dawn, wrapped in my <HI REND="italics">Sarabe</HI>
083.sgm:, I learned on a solitary piece of quartz in front of my tent and looked over the rocky valley, gathering some very interesting impressions.  The morning sun lights the heavens above this mining region for some time before it strikes the depths of the inhabited valley.  There is a long twilight in the rocky depths and the day here has a double awakening.</p><P>At five o'clock in the morning daylight comes shyly over the heights of the Sierra Nevadas.  Only the highest peaks are lighted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:by the sun during its long struggle to disperse the shadows.  The sun rises higher on the horizon during this play of shadows in the distance and suddenly all the tents nearby are enveloped in dazzling light.  The miners wake, step from their tents and in a few minutes their smoke columns announcing the preparation of breakfast rise everywhere in the valley.  Now shadow and light mingle in the deep gorge and the old grey lime and basalt rock, "the black Moor," takes off his nightclothes.  Soon the last shadows from the opposite cliff into the dark waves of the river and its surface brightens and glimmers in the morning sun, the blue-grey of the stony river banks lightens to a natural grey and stands out against the green meadows.</p><P>As far as the eye can see all has suddenly come to life.  The overseer's reverberating gong or trumpet starts off to their day's work groups of various nationalities, among which the Chinese are the most striking.  Crowbars resound on the hard stone, gold scales rattle in the gravel and the blustering quartz mill can be heard above all while the whistle of the steam-engine screams through the animated valley.</p><P>Every mining region has its own peculiar population and activity which is determined by the kind and arrangement of the mines.  This difference is shown between places located on the upper and lower parts of the rivers.  The southern fork of the American river now resembles the valley of a productive region of Old England, but only a few miles from here, turning away into the mountains one recognizes at first glance the uncertain life of adventure.  A systematic, technical procedure will spread only gradually to this region.  Where Weber Creek flows into the South Fork there are several regular gold fields which look as if they had been watered and plowed.  The water of the brook has been turned into many small ditches across the floor of the valley and several hundred miners work on it with the Long-Tom.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:town of Salmon Fall here will have a wonderful future.  Two bridges, very well built and in good taste, already span the river, and a good road leads to the abandoned mining town, Pilot Hill, in the northern part of the Eldorado region.</p><P>Pilot Hill presents one of the most characteristic pictures of feverish mining life.  In the summer of 1850 several sailors first discovered gold there, in the dark ravines, and at the bends of the main valley.  Platinum was found in pieces as large as an ounce but ignorant miners, thinking it to be another metal of no value, threw it away.  Thus one of these men once presented me with a pretty specimen of it.  Soon a town of about thirty houses was built and it was thought that by the end of the year it would double in size.  Three months later the region was again wilderness.  Not a soul was to be found in the little town built on earth which contains gold.  Its single street had been transformed into a bubbling brook and every house was undermined and almost caving in.  It looked as if the Angel of Death had taken up his abode there.  Riding through this place in the twilight with a friend I involuntarily pressed my spurs into my horse's loins and was unable to rid myself if its depressing influence until we arrived at cheerful Salmon Fall.</p><P>The great mines of South Fork are twenty miles from Salmon Fall between the towns of Culoma and Union.  An American Company has built a tunnel there, a mile long, and has laid dry a great elbow-shaped part of the river.  Another Company is busy with a similar promising enterprise.  From Culoma they are turning the South Fork into the Cosumnes so that the southern mines can thus be exploited with water from the northern mines.  Thus a mining region, fifteen miles wide, which could not be worked because of insufficient water, has been transformed into a new site of fortune for the gold-seekers.  Such a project of California mining art has already been completed between the Yuba and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Bear rivers in Grass Valley, where Rough and Ready, a center for distribution of provisions, and all its rich surrounding mining region was thereby saved from depopulation.  That region which suffered from a general drought can now be compared with the most enchanting park in which the silver gleam of countless brooks quickens the golden glances of the working miners.</p><P>Nothing is more glorious than the sight of Culoma Valley, fifty miles from the Sacramento.  Here, Sutter's Mill, the famous place where the world god first was recognized in his earthly covering, stands lonely and deserted.  Two crooked fir trees tower above it, as though still awaiting the discovery of gold in a legendary world, while around it is being fulfilled the prophesy that Captain Sutter made to one of his friends in the first excitement of his happiness: "Culoma Valley must be filled with one city in which my mill will be the center."  At the same time the German mill maker, Marshall, the discoverer of gold, curses the place where he proclaimed the happy Omen to the world, which has so far repaid him only with ingratitude.</p><P>Culoma is the capital of the Eldorado region.  The name comes from the Indian and means "Lovely Valley."  An imposing mountain chain, its peaks encircled by the charming sky, inclose it like an amphitheater, protecting it from the penetrating cold of winter and making it the constant abode of spring.  Compared with the impression made on us here by nature the history of the region is trivial and without it Culoma Valley would also earn its inextinguishable renown.</p><P>The usual mining life is shown between Culoma and Mountain Lake but the region changes and becomes wild as soon as the first mountain chain north of the South Fork is passed and the high valleys are reached.  Dark pine forests cover the mountain slopes and emphasize the fresh green of the richly watered valleys.  Here and there one comes upon solitary farm buildings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:and in the midst of the forest there is a shingled town which, like a white hawthorn blossom, seems to have bloomed in a stormy night.  Georgetown is a forest refuge where the men of the mountains labor like gnomes and dwarfs at the gold hearths.  Five miles from it lies Greenwood Valley, a settlement founded on a flowering meadow by the old hunter, Greenwood.  The eagle soars at Georgetown while the butterfly and fickle humming bird flit at Greenwood, but at both places we encounter the same locomotive mining people, constantly on the chase after Fortuna.  For them distance means not time but speed, and time means money.  The procession of California masqueraders, of " <HI REND="italics">Hebebald</HI>
083.sgm: " and " <HI REND="italics">Eilebeute</HI>
083.sgm: "<ANCHOR ID="n8-3">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: moves from Freek to Ravine, from Canian to Gulch, from Bar to Flat.  They stop occasionally on terrain which is crazily dug up and deeply furrowed, stay for a while in tunneled and cajoted mountains and among ruined walls in the depths of the valleys, then move until they reach the central mountains of the Sierra Nevadas where the town of the same name marks the last outpost of civilization and where nature has laid an insurmountable barrier.  There is a volcanic region, seventy-five miles long, not far from there northeast of Mountain Lake and bordering on the region of Pyramid, Middle, Humboldt, Carson and Walker lagoons.  It is of extremely barren character and is supposed to somewhat resemble the vicinity of Great Salt Lake one degree farther north.  The entire region, which has never yet been described by any traveler, is covered with ashes, Lapilli, lava, and volcanic bombs, and is only dotted in a few places with fir trees.  A number of crater domes are visible at different heights and oddly enough, their bases are frequently encircled by flourishing pines, probably because the abundance of easily assimilated gases rising here serve to nourish them.  Instead of the customary wide open craters these volcanic openings are narrow, their basins, which are constantly filled with boiling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:lava being occasionally not more than two feet in diameter.  In two places this is especially evident, each of them containing about one hundred such little seething witches' kettles.  The surrounding ground is loose or melted soft and gives way under the feet.  Usually at night these craters vomit burning, vari-colored lava with a loud steaming, hissing sound.  In several places where volcanic activity seems to have been extinguished the crater bases are as high as 500 feet.  One of these, occupying a region of fifty acres, presents beautiful volcanic scenery, marked by rainbow colors in the lava masses which reminds us in another way that the world cannot expect another world flood.  This volcano has formed next to it a mountain of black sand, 700 to 800 feet high, in which the naked eye can recognize grains of magnetic iron ore, augite, glassy feldspar and trachyte.  It is hoped that, as in the sand of the Goldbluffs, much gold will be found here.  This mountain is the greatest wonder of the country as its creation will for a long time take its place among the volcanic fables.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-3">These expressions should not be translated.  They are unchangeable in mining language for which one must have a grammar just as one is required for that spoken in the parlors and gambling halls of a large city.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>From here the gold region extends to the north across the Middle and North Fork of the American River to the Yuba and [Feather] Rivers.  The wanderer must laboriously climb up high, wildly romantic, many-branched valleys which, however, afford him much enjoyment.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Makes every wanderer happy; his hour never palls.<LB>From where the spring forever babbling falls<LB>Climb then on mountain high and rocky<LB>To crawl along the labyrinth of the valley<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>I had gone to the farthest limits of the California gold region and returned content to Sacramento City.  This inland city with its direct communication with the mining region had more charm for me than the coast city where conditions were more like those of eastern America than those of the gold mountains.  Sacramento City is the place where everything has a native character, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:where the pleasures of city life are combined with those of country and mining life.  Only the first-named pleasures are to be found in San Francisco as this city belongs more to the great world than does Sacramento.  The shibboleth of large cities "C'est partout comme chez nous" is also suited to San Francisco which as the main city of the new country might be compared to the head of a child who has rickets, where all the harmful body fluids flow.  Not only can this comparison be drawn but a point of contrast also exists: the more laws people make to obtain happiness, uniting a large body with great strength in one place, the more they ruin themselves by infecting each other, thus increasing their evil ways and faults.  Too great a number of people detracts from the general welfare.  The Essene knew this and therefore avoided the community life of large cities.  Moreover, the mob is too lazy to make any decisions for itself and too insolent to obey the decisions of others.  Dreamers and swindlers of all kinds flourish in the mob where light and shadow, virtue and sin, enlightment and ignorance are so intermingled that they create the strangest scenes.  In San Francisco, too, the greed for gold goes hand in hand with extravagance, throttling the hearts and dulling the feelings of society while the soul of man loses its ability to feel enjoyment of pleasant and beautiful things as well as its ability to create them.  All the most charming objects can waken no response in him.  Entertainment and various diversions rob him of his noblest time, weakening his prudence, and even if alertness be spurred and the imagination be nourished in the maelstrom of life, memory relaxes and exploring, abstract reasoning power becomes dulled.  Then surfeit is unavoidable and therefore a stay in a small country town is often to be preferred to the city.</p><P>Sacramento City lies under 38&deg; 35' N. lat. and 121&deg; 21' W. long., about sixty miles above the mouth of the Sacramento on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:the mouth of the American River and 125 miles from San Francisco.  To learn the city's history it is necessary to return to the first settler of New Helvetia, the much misunderstood Captain Sutter, as he is most intimately bound up with it.</p><P>In the fall of 1838 Captain Sutter, pursued by constant ill luck, arrived in Oregon from where he soon sailed in the bark <HI REND="italics">Clementine</HI>
083.sgm: for the Sandwich Islands.  In July, 1839, he returned to San Francisco whence he went to Monterey, where he received permission from the government to settle in the <HI REND="italics">Territorium</HI>
083.sgm:.  He then rented a pinnace and a launch from the schooner <HI REND="italics">Isabella</HI>
083.sgm: and with them for eight days explored the Bay of San Francisco.  He found the mouth of the Sacramento River, followed its course to the Feather River and returned to the American River where he landed in the month of August at the place which is now called "Old Tan Yard," from the tan yard which he erected there.  He chose here for his settlement a stretch of land, sixty miles long and twelve miles wide, and marked the next point on the Sacramento plain, the highest, where Sutter's Fort has since been built.  One year later he was appointed military commander of the north.  In 1841 the "Exploring Expedition" came to Sacramento, laying much claim to Sutter's services and expressing their entire satisfaction with him for the services rendered.  About six years later he proceeded to his hog farm on the Feather River where he now lives with his family.  No matter what fate has in store for him he will always enjoy the respect and love of his contemporaries.</p><P>In January, 1849, he directed his efforts to the laying out of the city, four miles from Sutter's Fort on the Sacramento, the grandeur of whose plan bears ample witness to the illusions of his first golden days.  Suttersville was to be a city whose circumference and arrangement Captain Sutter could only have dreamed about, basing his estimate on the walls of Paris.  A canal was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:started which was to bring the waters of the American River through the center of the city.  When the first twenty houses were built along it, marking the front and skeleton of the giant city--the work was finished.  Sutter had a competitor and rival who founded Sacramento City with more success because the sacrifices by the former together with the intrigues of his Yankee assistants ruined him.  A competition and quarrel arose between the founders of these two cities which awakens memories so sad that we will not discuss them here.  It was a rivalry between father and son.</p><P>The front part of Sacramento City had just been built and the founder was assured of his victory when the so-called "Squatter struggle" began.  Sutter's right of ownership was scorned and a mob of new settlers refused to pay for the ground on which their habitations were built.  This nuisance continued until citizens with more insight united in a governing body, proscribed the squatters and when it was necessary drove them away with powder and shot.</p><P>From this time the inland city began to expand with magical rapidity.  On March 18, 1850, the incorporation of the city was sanctioned by the legislature and the first election under the new charter took place in April.  In October, 1849, there were 2000 inhabitants in the city, and in December the population had increased to 3500 citizens.  The census of 1850 placed the population at 10,000 and two years later at 25,000 with a taxable wealth of $5,835,000 and the sum of expenditures at $100,000.  The wealth of Sacramento City is more equally distributed among the populace than in any other city of the Union, and the yearly taxes, which are small in comparison to the earnings, run about $180 to $1500 for each individual.</p><P>It is said that on the site of a new settlement the Americans first set up a printing press, the English a church, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Germans a beer hall.  This took place in Sacramento City where all three nations were represented.  The press was one of the main needs as the crowd of settlers increased.  It was used here with much eagerness to supply the needs of the people as it was necessary to fix the political, legal and police measures of the youngstate, whereby every nationality wished to make known its demands.  It would have been impossible to fulfill all these, although of course they could not be entirely overlooked or refused, but it was most important that the American measures predominate, as does the American immigration.  These measures were such that all other nationalities became easily adapted to them and soon preferred them to their own.  In all modern states the two great political parties are constantly striving for precedence.  This is also true in the State of California, which was taken into the Union in 1851 at which time Sacramento City was chosen as the provisional seat of government and capital.<ANCHOR ID="n8-4">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: Captain Sutter and his followers started the first political movements which naturally harmonized more or less with the politics of his fatherland.  But this seed was stifled in the germ by the adventures and the law of might ruled.  When the American civil and criminal laws were put into effect political parties retaining some of the law of might again formed among the various nationalities of the population.  Freedom and order did not rule until after the driving away of the squatters, which started in Sacramento City, and we can except the fact that at this time the two parties, which at present rule the state, were formed with more or less opposing principles.  With the election of Governor Bigler in 1851 the Democratic party decisively obtained the upper hand but there are still many Whigs who will persist here as long as there is gold.  The English Whigs take their name from the initials of the sentence "We hope in God," the popular humor of the Californians claims that their name is derived from the initial letters of "We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:hope in gold."  Most of the California settlers seem, however, to have from the beginning taken their political color only from that of the gold.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-4">The real seat of government is Vallejo, the city on the lower Sacramento, founded by the old general of the same name.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The church congregations in Sacramento increased rapidly in number, and immediately participated in arranging for the education of the people.  This was true in all the new cities of California as the guaranteed religious freedom of the country, whose underlying principle is tolerance, had a system which could hardly be improved in which every one "can be saved according to his own belief."  Schools were erected from the church funds of the various congregations and thus many emigrant families chose to remain in this city.  Sacramento already had a respectable school system when the article about the new arrangements for "Popular Education" was published.  This stated that an inspector, elected for three years by the people, should superintend the schools, and that the legislature is required to use every suitable means to advance the mental, scientific and moral education of the citizens as well as see that agricultural improvements are adopted.  The proceeds of the whole country which the Union allows the State of California for her schools, the 500,000 acres which are given every state by the law of 1841, all inheritances of people who died without heirs, etc., shall form a permanent fund the interest of which together with the rental of all unsold lands, as well as all other means adopted by the legislature shall be inviolably used to support the schools of the state.  In every school district the schools should be open at least three months of the year and be maintained at the expense of the state.  The legislature should also adopt measures for the founding of a university.</p><P>To observe how the first Germans in Sacramento City diligently proceeded to make arrangements for their particular social entertainments it is only necessary to point out the number of German inns, both in the city and its environs, and to mention <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:the many notices in the daily papers of entertainments which will take place on Sunday, the day of recreation and pleasure for all the Germans in America as well as at home.  There are, however, no large garden inns in Sacramento like those owned by the San Francisco Germans, as the monotonous flat vicinity of the city is less adapted to them.  Sacramento City can not be said to have a favorable location if one considers the river floods to which this city, like New Orleans, is exposed from time to time.</p><P>The dam, or Levee, extending along the Sacramento to protect the city was built in 1850 at a cost of $200,000 shortly after the great flood which almost destroyed the city forever.  The settlers would have moved to Suttersville, which is higher, had not several land speculators made tremendous sacrifices and quickly wiped out the signs of the misfortune.  The dam is constantly being extended and repaired by state prisoners.  This is a nice institution, as the state is thereby protecting itself from criminals and with them protecting its capital city from destruction.</p><P>The activity on the Levee of Sacramento City compares with that on the Long Wharf of San Francisco.  The largest commercial buildings of the city, which extends for miles between it and Sutter's Fort, front on it.  Opposite it on the northern banks of the Sacramento the California town of Washington seems to be about to bloom as a rival.  The place where the steamer connects Sacramento City with Washington marks the former <HI REND="italics">Embargadero</HI>
083.sgm:.  From there a path leads through the wooded and marshy river banks to Sutter's Fort, on which the Indian crawled along gasping under the burden of feed gathered in the service of the unrestricted lords of the country, and where today he sees with astonishment the many "fire-boats" whose landing place he first marked with his balsa.  People and all kinds of goods are scattered over the open space.  The California sale of goods is shown here in all its great feverish course from Auction to "Cash and Retail Store."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Bell ringing vies with gong beating in calling people to the sales.  The salesmen vie with the auctioneer, who is frequently one of these American universal geniuses who has worked through the whole list of professions, from preacher to office boy.  In better times he hops back again from mountebank, via the shops, into the pulpit.  There is such a variety of selected goods in the market and competition is so great that the selling price is frequently forced down lower than the purchase price.  The result of this is that the merchants coming from the mines buy cheaply, completely emptying the market, and on the following day the city dwellers must pay exorbitant prices.  The location of Sacramento City also favors this as it is the center of the gold region and may be called its commercial barometer.  The American business principle of a quick turnover seems to be nowhere more in evidence than here.</p><P>When activity increases in the mines good days are in store for the inhabitants of Sacramento who seek profit.  A dry winter increases activity and profit from the north while a wet one does the same from the south, because in the first case the earth which contains gold can be raised from the river bottoms, while in the last, it can be taken from the mountains and washed.  During contrary weather conditions the work in the mines is disturbed in winter and commerce is interrupted.  This, however, is only seemingly the case for the miner remains with his started work and consumes his earned treasures.  The California summer is without rain and thus especially favorable to the exploitation of the northern mines so that in this time of year Sacramento has very good days, rich in commerce.  The following notation shows what tremendous volume this commerce has: In the summer of 1851 seven hundred and seventy-two wagons, heavily laden, left Sacramento in one week bound for Grass Valley and Nevada.  At the same time three mail wagons, so filled with passengers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Horn, or overland and each passage averaged $200 in cost, $22,000,000 were expended in these two years for traveling.  A great many of these passengers came overland which took fifty days; figuring $3.00 a day for wages our state had an actual loss of $17,000,000.  On whom does this burden fall if not on the people of California?  It is actually a direct tax.  The transportation on the railroad of every 110,000 persons costs $80 a person and takes seven days.  Total costs are $6,000,000 and $7,000,000 with savings of about $30,000,000.  Listen now!  The railroad costs $75,000,000.  California saves yearly $30,000,000, thus two years' savings cover the entire cost."</p><P>Although all efforts and attention in Sacramento City are directed towards earning and profit, after working hours the people devote themselves in every possible way to pleasure and recreation.  The inhabitants of the city seem more inclined to pleasures which take them out of doors than to home entertainment.  Horse racing, and bull and bear fights seem the most popular amusements.</p><P>Bull fighting is a Spanish entertainment; a Spanish celebration with which man stimulates animal lust and animal rage to its highest degree until a bloody victim falls to the battle ground amidst the barbarous jubilation of the crowd.  Among these people, however, are some in whom sympathetic, feeling common to all humans, is intensified to complete exhaustion at sight of the suffering and horror.  The Spanish-American occupation of the gold country is not solely responsible for the waking of this passionate desire for bull fighting, but an attempt is made to satisfy this in fights which not only have their original Spanish character but also combine an American feature.  The rage of the bull is not stimulated here by deception, spear or fireworks, but by a bear who, <HI REND="italics">nolens volens</HI>
083.sgm:, has been honored to the position of Matador and chained to the front foot of the bull.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>The first of these bull fights took place in the summer of 1851 in Sacramento City.  At this time I was an eyewitness of one, the preparations of which foretold something extraordinary.  A long grandstand was built at the mile-long race track in Brighton, six miles from the city.  The entrance price was $2.50 and enormous placards on every street corner announced for weeks ahead the glorious fight between the American gray bear "General Scott" and the Mexican bull `Sant' Anna."</p><P>On the night before the celebration the managers went out to rivet an iron chain on to the right rear paw of the bear who was locked in a huge wagon cage made of oak and iron bars.  First, several lassos were thrown through the iron bars and bound around his limbs and neck.  With these he was pulled to the bottom of the cage by horse power and held fast there.  This was accomplished in a short time.  But the grizzly's jaws opened raging and resembling a fiery abyss into which the clever tamers sunk pieces of boards and wood from time to time, an excellent measure, for while the grizzly sharpened his teeth on the wood and vented his wrath on it he had no time to remember the strange things occurring to his feet, where an iron band with ring and chain was being fastened to his ankle joint.  "Give him lumber!" cried those engaged in this when the tortured creature rebelled or interfered with the work, and a new supply of boards reached his jaws with the desired results.  The gray bear revenged himself on them with the same rage as the American general, General Scott, is supposed to have been revenged on his Mexican enemies.  General Scott tore them all into splinters, the boards I mean, and could hardly be subdued.</p><P>By the time the work was finished the bear's jaws were sore, filled with wood splinters and bloody foam.  After this terrifying, torturous ordeal he received an ox, weighing fifteen pounds, for his supper.  Scott devoured it in a moment and would have gladly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:let them rivet on another chain for a second ration but he received no more as his hunger for meat was to be satisfied by his opponent, Sant' Anna.  To the strains of pompous Yankee music and accompanied by a crowd of spectators Scott finally proceeded to the battle field.</p><P>It was a burning hot afternoon and the arena was shaded only by some oak trees under which the mounted spectators had gathered while most of the crowd was in the grandstand or pushing against the balustrade of the battle field.  The wild bull was a large stately brown animal, young and fat, broad-browed and with sharp horns.  Several bold Americans rode close by the bull and as if he were really the hated Mexican enemy, Sant' Anna himself, they struck him with their hide lassos with such force that we could hear the slap.  Sant' Anna, however, had soon pushed a rider from his saddle and then with his horns ripped open the belly of a beautiful horse.</p><P>Several trumpets blew a signal and quiet and order reigned in the arena.  The bull was lassoed and laid on his back in front of the trap-door of the bear cage, the chains of the two opposing, hostile elements were soon connected and the trap-door raised.  The bull, freed of his lassos, lay quietly for about a second, until the bear, bellowing terribly, fell on his enemy with all his fourteen cwt.  Sant' Anna did not waste much time in surprise but, snorting and horning, suddenly swung himself up from under his living burden.  A thick cloud of dust and the peculiar voices of the animals, which sounded like thunder breaking through a cloud, gave evidence of the great struggle.  Above this noise could be heard the "Carajo el Torre!" of several Mexicans who looked from the top of a tree into the midst of the cloud of dust and who feared the superiority of the American fighter.  The bull stood paralyzed and the bear hung to his head like a living padlock.  The bear squeezed the bull in his arms with all his strength, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:sunk his claws deep behind his ears and buried the bull's nose in his bloodthirsty jaws while he braced his rear legs on the ground, clawing into it with them.  It seemed as if he either wanted to blow out the breath of his opponent or suck his life out.  That was a bear kiss!  The bull emitted such a moan of pain at this that I gritted my teeth and joined him with a sigh.  He shook his head several times, waved his tail high above his hips and fell as he was unable to carry out his plan of throwing the bear on his back by turning a somersault over him.  That was clever; by this manoeuver the bear failed to obtain the fresh bull tongue for which he probably had slyly aimed and with which he could have devoured his enemy's life.  The crowd paid him the tribute of ringing applause.</p><P>Now, however, Sant' Anna became aggressive.  At the full length of the chain, a distance of about twelve feet, he stood facing the bear, foaming with rage and waving his tail about in eagerness for for battle.  The bear sat down comfortably as if he wished to revel in the anger of his enemy or mockingly say to him "No fair trying to frighten me."  The bull lowered his dangerous head and as if driven by steam threw himself on the bear's breast.  The latter turned completely over twice and just when about to take his revenge he flew up again like a rubber ball and fell to the ground like a full sack of flour.  That was a bad fall.  But uninjured, the grizzly rose to his full height and swung his paw to strike the bull a rough blow.  The bull deftly side-stepped and now thrust his horns into the bear's fur.  No blood flowed but the bear, overcome by a panic of fear, took to flight.  The chain broke and in the wink of an eye old Bruin was sitting up in the nearest oak tree.  How amusing!  You should have seen the speed with which those jackanapes spectators left their reserved seats.  Some of them simply let themselves fall straight down while <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:others slid down from the outer branches.  It looked as if old Bruin had jumped into a pond and driven out all the frogs.</p><P>Up to now the struggle had been entertaining and not at all revolting even for the greatest enemy of cruelty to animals but, alas, its finish was not less painful and disgusting than the animal torture of bull fights in Spain and South America in which, one after the other, a selected group of the most beautiful bulls must bleed to death before the eyes of the crowd.  The bear was skillfully lassoed by a young <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
083.sgm: and soon thereafter the fugitive fell from the tree, eighteen feet high, to the ground.  It seemed as if only a cat had fallen because he immediately rushed after the <HI REND="italics">vaquero's</HI>
083.sgm: horse to destroy it.  But before he had gone far a second lasso fell around his hind legs and several others were about his fat body, holding him in a net like a powerful spider.  In a short time and with little trouble the bull and bear were again chained together.</p><P>Again several attacks were made by each whereby, however, the bull gained the advantage every time.  Again he threw the grizzly high into the air, threatening to crush him against an oak trunk, but the bear remained uninjured.  I never thought that a Mexican bull possessed so much strenghth; I knew that a well-developed bull can carry five cwt. and can pull about eighteen but no <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
083.sgm: had ever told me that he could throw fourteen cwt. high in the air with his horns.  Probably the living elasticity of the bear and the stormy onrush of the bull were essential aids to this.  The bear soon showed signs of fatigue and became cowardly.  The crowd, however, clamored for a decision and two mounted <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
083.sgm: forced him to fight by dragging him towards the bull on a lasso which they had thrown over him from behind and then held between their horses.  The bull welcomed him with a hard head butt so that the feared General Scott soon lost all his power of sight and sound.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>It was pathetic to see the poor animal, completely exhausted, forced by men to fight while dying just to decide their bets.  The sight became unbearable.  I withdrew and mounting my horse disappeared towards the city in the growing darkness of nightfall.</p><P>Several such bull fights were staged in Sacramento City.  Rarely, however, was the bear the victor.  The bull was soon thought to be a too powerful opponent for the king of the California forests and he was supplanted by a--donkey.  A California longear, or several of these, were brought into the arena with the bear, and it was horrible to see the bear quench his bloodthirstiness on these weak creatures.  Of course some rough kicks were directed at the bear's head but sometimes the angry bear bit the donkey's leg off or bit his head off.  Frequently the enraged bear was then put in a well-closed arena in which were loosed many of the gray rats<ANCHOR ID="n8-5">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: which infest California cities, who crawling under his fur, enraged him the more.  The affair passed through all stages, from the heroic to the lowest and the Yankees mocked the dignity of the bear as they do that of a king.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-5">Sacramento City gives a most excellent example of the quick increase of these rats when circumstances favorable to their multiplication are not lacking as: wooden houses, piled up badly preserved victuals and dirty courtyards and streets.  In 1847 no inhabitants of Sacramento had seen a single rat in the city.  A year later the first were brought by ship and seen in Sutter's Fort.  In the summer of 1851, after Sacramento City was built, I tried to calculate the approximate number of rats in the city.  Every night at the same hour I strode through the three main streets, each about one-third of a mile long, and the ten other streets, and counted the rats fleeing before my footsteps.  There were about 400 in each of the first three and 180 in each of the last ten.  Assuming, which is not an exaggeration, that six times as many rats were in the thirty houses, or blocks of houses, inclosed by these streets, and that there were seventy per cent young in the nests we obtain the sum of 30,600 rats, that is, a ratio of 1:1 to the inhabitants of Sacramento City.  Calculating from another angle, these rats would have furnished two days' nourishment for the 3000 Chinese inhabitants of Sacramento as they really did more to destroy the creatures than did poison and cats.  Cats do not seem to get along very well where there is a superfluity of food--a fact which is also often true in human society.  The ratio of rats to citizens in other California cities is the same and this repulsive, bestial creature can be said to be the most faithful companion of a starting civilization.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>When the American desire for novelty and interest could find no more satisfaction in bear fights they were completely discontinued.  "Tiempe passate!" now sighs the Mexican when he remembers the first California bull fights.  He must return to his own country if he wishes to satisfy his native desire for this entertainment.  The American Californian "doesn't care for it and seeks his entertainment elsewhere."</p><P>The individual who has the insight to recognize the fact that it is not easy nor advisable to choose friends or to live with ostensible friends in whom individual interests are so strongly stimulated that they live only for themselves will seek his entertainment in riding on the great plains where the distant scenery beckons to him in the changing play of twilight and the glorious climate<ANCHOR ID="n8-6">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: furthers his welfare, or he will go hunting in the forests or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:around the duck ponds.  During my ten months' stay in Sacramento I passionately longed to find a faithful, sincere friend with whom I could share all my experiences and tell what I had learned, and with whom I could while away my leisure hours.  I had experienced much, but no matter how pleasant it was, it was only half as enjoyable as it might have been if I had some one with whom I could share it.  True pleasure comes only from seeing one's own feelings reflected in those of an intimate, listening friend.  A friend worthy of full confidence is not to be found in the gold country, and probably nowhere else in this world either.  In these metallic, electro-magnetic times true friendship seems to have become an impossibility.  The Lotus tree throws its shadow over man and seduces him to degrade his friend as eagerly as he had previously tried to aid him.  Binding him to a stake he throws at him the dirt of slanderous lies, the lowest of all demoralizing lies, even pointing suspicion at him if he has obtained by his own efforts what material people call happiness, or if, having suffered bitter experiences, he withdraws from the social revels.  Modern friendship if not actually endowed with a Medusa head, does have Argus eyes, a double tongue and infected breath and can be described as:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Where'er friends be<LB>These lines their fate decree:<LB>Around them floats the genius<LB>Of pure subjectiveness.<LB>Their love is love of self<LB>Inspired by material pelf.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-6">The climate of Sacramento City is really most excellent.  Located in the center of a wide, sunshiny plain, covered with fragrant flowers and herbs, it has a yearly temperature of 10&deg;-26&deg; R.  Exposed towards the east to the snowy breezes of the Sierra ne los Mimbres and to the west to the ocean trade winds which, having spent their rage in San Francisco and on the coast range, fan the Sacramentoans and keep the city constantly between tropical spring and northern fall.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>It is good to have had experiences of this kind that one may speak a true word about this sort of thing.  This land lacked from the beginning that easily decadent blossom of society, friendship, and could not even foster its growth so that man might use its nimbus as a passport for his passions to play their evil games forcing these to stand out alone in their revolting nakedness.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Frequently when such thoughts pained me and I thirsted in vain for a faithful soul I would rush out into the glorious valley with Schlemihl's friend, who always accompanied me in the California sunlight, and expressed all my complaints and discontent into the great outdoors.  I always came back then with renewed hopes for a happy return to my native land.  Thus inspired by the same thoughts with which I had been looking out over the Sacramento Valley I decided one day that soon I would leave both Sacramento City and the gold country.</p><P>When lovely spring smiles down upon this valley and everything, filled with renewed vigor, joyfully awaits the golden harvest of summer a prologue to the catastrophe which will soon befall the valley dwellers is being prepared in the Sierra Nevadas.  The snow, piled high, falls from the steep alpen slopes into the deep valleys and mingles with the waters of the Sacramento.  Avalanches thunder in mountain and valley filling the wild mountain dwellers with fear and terror.  The river multiplies many times its size and force, it overflows its bed, transforming the lovely valley into a gloomy lake.  Where are the charming farms on its fruitful banks, where the buildings of young Sacramento City?  All are buried deep in water.  Life boats and steamers, filled with fleeing citizens, pass over them using a box compass to find the way which shortly before they had followed between the meadow-covered banks.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>In the loveliest valley a gnome reigns supreme<LB>'Tis the valley of the sacrament, of the Sacramento stream.<LB>With the golden tinsel he holds in his hand<LB>He lures many strange folk to his strand.<LB>With speed they build their cities here<LB>In sight of the gold they all revere.<LB>Then the gnome in a single night<LB>Takes all the valley into his might<LB>He takes everything on the river bank<LB>Putting all into the stream with one great yank.</HI>
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083.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">But now with all its power comes the Sacrament<LB>Soon stopping this terrible incident.<LB>Rushing through the Golden Gate to the Pacific's foam<LB>Where in flows the river as if at home.<LB>New happiness comes always after greatest need<LB>And this beautiful valley is thus freed.<LB></HI>
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083.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IX</HEAD>
083.sgm:<P>On to Nicaragua and Home!</p><P>HAVING witnessed the birth and social forming of the gold country, no one, after bidding it a last farewell, can escape from a melancholy mood when he is carried out to the Pacific from the vivid bay of San Francisco.  When we have watched a thing grow from its infancy, we always experience this melancholy when we part from it.</p><P>This is what happened to me when the ocean steamer, the <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
083.sgm: bore me away from the new country.  For the last time my eye lighted on the large number of "land-coupling" ships in the foreground of San Francisco.  However, the rapid disappearance of the bay with all its monuments left little time for the glimmer of parting emotion.  New pictures with which I should busy myself flew towards me.  Steamer travel is opposed to all leisureliness.  Even one's thoughts are torn along by the speed of the steamer.</p><P>Passing through the narrow opening of the bay of San Francisco one is most struck by its points, the Farallones, rock masses rising high above the surface of the ocean.  Fremont not inaptly named this on his map the golden gate or Chrysopyla&die;, a prophesy that this harbor was destined to be the center of the commerce <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:of the Pacific Ocean just as in Ancient Bysantium the Chrysokeras of the golden horn was the center of Asiatic commerce.  The sea dashes its impetuous breakers against the Farallones, seeming to abate its violence here before it rolls it flattened waves cloudlike into the bay.  The mariner sails respectfully past this threatening ocean goblin.  Attention is then drawn to the beach.  With its constant change in shape and arrangements it offers new and pleasing sights.  It also presents a means for the practical sailor to determine quite accurately the outer form of the coast territories and states in accordance with their geographic borders.</p><P>The coast of Upper California is characterized by the many large and small bays and harbors in which the coast traveler finds sure anchorage.  In the background towers the mountain chain, wrapped in a light veil of fog which protects the gently rising terraces from the scorching heat.  It is not so dry here and the vegetation is more striking.  Occasionally the mountain is pierced by a broad valley through the middle of which a clear stream or river flows into the bay which has been formed by it.  The banks of these rivers, which seem to be destined for cotton and sugar plantations, are frequently decorated with olive groves that shade a small town or settlement in the foreground.</p><P>As the coast range recedes, the mountain peaks are higher but the terraces slope off towards the water and finally flatten out entirely.  There is also abundant vegetation here.  On the slopes and valleys near the coast, however, it lives but a few months in its dark dress and all too soon, scorched by the sun's rays, it begins to fade.  Then it puts on its light summer dress, giving the mountains the aspect of a snow covering.  This is the wild oats and the <HI REND="italics">Muskit</HI>
083.sgm: grass that reflects the sunshine in a blinding white light, while across it the sea wind digs its waves and the cloud shadows hurry.</p><P>The friendly, mild phenomena disappear where Lower <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:California begins.  Everything takes on wilder, coarser forms.  Steep cliffs rise sheer from the sea against which it dashes foaming.  The ocean traveler finds Old [Lower] California gray and bare with its threatening tongue of land of sky-high lime rocks and ridges stretching thirstily out into the sea.  Nature seems to have died in these rock walls.  No bush, no blade of grass finds ground to take root here.  The embankment resembles an enormous grave mound covering a dead power of nature.  Only the eagle and the sea bird circle above the summits in which they have their homes.  Another reason that the traveler's eye does not like this dead picture is because he would fare sadly if a rough wind or storm would reach him here.</p><P>The penninsula comes to an end, and the formation of the coast changes.  Black mountains, bordering the plateau of Mexico, are replaced by a wave-like mountain chain running parallel to the coast, gradually losing itself in a narrow sandstrip which seems to characterize the coast.  New bays and harbors appear in rapid succession.</p><P>Mazatlan and Acapulco are usually visited by the California mail steamers and the passengers enjoy a pleasant pause here.  High cone-shaped mountains from which extend slopes decorated with tropical forests are visible in the southern coast countries of Mexico and Central America.  At the foot of these, near the edge of the ocean, smiling Indian villages are visible.  Soon however, these mountain peaks conceal glowing craters.  The smoke, flame, and tornadoes of which remind those sailing past both day and night of their dangerous existence.  The mysterious play of flames which "gleaming, glittering, bursting" spreads all the shades of light through the star-spangled tropical night presents a sight that exalts the soul from its nightly dreamlike mood.  Sleeping fancy is charmed anew to swing itself up through the light heights.  This phenomenon offers human knowledge and theory <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:such rich and nourishing food that one must compare one's own crowding theories with ancient hypotheses and theories.</p><P>Odd thoughts are actually awakened by observing this row of volcanoes for a continuous period of time or during widely separated intervals.  From a faint glow they burst into roaring flames and then are extinguished.  It is merely supposed that this regular, alternate action of volcanic eruptions is related to the gradual drawing together of the <HI REND="italics">Pyriphlegethon</HI>
083.sgm: in the earth's centrum.  This forces one to try to understand with vague pictures of the imagination or even with geognostic myths of antiquity an effect of the powers of nature which perhaps can be more easily explained by observed facts and a series of analagous phenomena.  It is delightful for the mind to surmise that hidden beneath the poetic decoration of primeval days it may find the cause of volcanic fire and thus in an entertaining way try to find that which has scientific worth.  It is frightful and terrible, however, to believe that the earth has in its center an original fiery, constantly boiling liquid mass which, according to every natural law, could arbitrarily mingle in communication with the atmosphere and threaten destruction.  That is why he who is not accustomed to study natural laws can make just as stimulating and satisfying a comparison of the effect of a chain of volcanoes or a central volcano with that of an electro-magnetic chain and then designate it as a galvanic volcano battery whose elements develop that wonderful activity, in turn or in pairs, which has such deceptive similarity with the experiments of electricity and of galvanism.  There are also sufficient facts to justify such a comparison, to enlarge and verify these views.  Instead of merely admiring one of the most grandiose volcanic scenes, the volcanoes of Guatemala, it may be permitted to arrange them in order in an attempt to divert the abundance and variety of the phenomena to a comparatively small number of conditions and to combine these according to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:isolated.  "Aetna and the Aeolian Isles have been burning for many centuries and how would this have been possible for such a long period of time if the nearby ocean did not give nourishment to the burning fire?" asked Trogus Pompejus of Agustus at the time in his volcanic theories which were somewhat complicated but which surmised to some extent the natural effects.  It has not yet been proved whether or not the hearth of a volcano or of a volcanic region possesses this required porousness or looseness of the earth.  This seems highly probable if the crater be regarded as sporadic eruptions of those gases which by drawing together the still soft earth force their way through its surface and thus could lend porousness to great stretches.<ANCHOR ID="n9-1">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1">Alexander v. Humboldt says: "Thus formerly, paths of communication between the melted interior and the atmosphere existed everywhere in the much-cracked, thin, rising and falling wavy earth crust.  The plutonic formation and transformation processes were stimulated by the gas-like emanations rising from very different depths and therefore containing different chemicals."</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>In such a situation and inner formation of a volcanic terrain, the water penetrates by capillary action through the porous elements at the foot of the volcano or at the place of volcanic eruption, creating heat and perhaps simultaneously an electric current as is shown in miniature in capillarity experiments.  This spreads to the surrounding stone layers where the gradual inflow of salt water and unequal division of warmth produces new sources of electricity.  Heat is produced or is liberated everywhere and is intensifying until it becomes fire as these great sources of electricity gain ground in the "bowels of the earth."  By means of electrochemistry some hydrochloric acid is produced from the salt water which when in liquid or vapor forms on the walls of the crater or drains and occasionally on the stone layers containing metal, can aid in bringing about new electro-magnetic currents or can disintegrate water.  Oxygen and hydrogen gases in various relations to each other and to air or mixed with other gases in the crater ignite and volcanic explosions are produced by which the lava which has become melted into looseness under the violent expansive force of the explosive gas blast, or when burned the ashes are expelled from the interior of the volcano.  The gases <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:sometimes condense into water which then gushes forth in hot springs near the volcano (as in the fire spewing grottos of Nappa Valley which connects with the littoral salt lake where cause and effect are side by side and where the rumbling made by footsteps on the volcanic terrain is evidence of its porousness.  Again, the gases may burn at the opening of the crater with a quiet constant, or flaming-up fire-like phenomenon.  The force and noise which frequently accompanies them can easily be understood when one recalls the effect of experiments with large electric batteries.  These can kill oxen, produce the roar of thunder, explode mines, and light streets for hours).<ANCHOR ID="n9-2">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-2">The great salt lake in the Mormon country which has an inflow but no outflow of waters has often been described as a miracle of nature which can, however, be easily explained when mention is made of the nearby volcanic "safety valves" or still active volcanoes.  Were these to lose their effect the fast approaching end of the world would perhaps be proclaimed to the "chosen people," the Mormons, causing them a catastrophe which might be identical with that of Sodom and Gomorrah.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>But from where comes the temporary, partial or total rest of the volcano?  Everyone knows that when burned lime be saturated with too much water it effervesces less and is less easily extinguished than if it be only slowly and gradually dampened.  In slaking the lime, too much water can postpone or hinder the phenomona, while only a little water makes it shine in the dark and creates a heat which can ignite sulphur, powder and wood.  This violent effect of the extinguishing lime rests entirely on its porosity received during burning by expelling the calcium carbonate gas.</p><P>According to this, when the porous conducting stones of a volcano are too strongly infiltrated with water the volcanic electricity or volcanism is diminished or will disappear until by mechanical means (that is, by the expansive force of created vapors), the too great onrush of capillary water is regulated.  That is, balance is given to the hydrostatic pressure or the slaked lime elements of the hearth have again burned themselves out and become penetrated by the gases.  The extinguishing of a volcano can also be caused by dross in the interior or the stopping up of the stone pores by the firm molecules carried in the gases (like ashes etc., as in the extinguished volcano in the Sierra Nevadas not far from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:Mountain Lake where the dross seems to have been sand).  Conditions of a large nature can produce their effects here as do small ones in our chemical laboratories when we set up our galvanic apparatuses.  When these conditions are removed the volcano will resume renewed, intermittent action.  This does not, however, seem to follow spontaneously.</p><P>This resuming of volcanic activity is called forth or stimulated during thunderstorms and periods of snowfall and rain, and even at night while during fine weather and dry periods the volcano frequently rests or diminishes its activity.  More meteor-electricity, which has greater conductivity, is found in the air on damp, rainy or snowy days and this must cause the increased or stimulated volcanic activity as this either connects with the volcanic electricity or stimulates it.  Earth temblors accompanied by subterranean roars, and lightning bolts from the crater clouds are results of this electrical-equalization or stimulation.</p><P>Earth temblors or earthquakes in regions where there are no volcanoes but where deposits of salt, bitumen, sulphur or other volcanic formations are found occur usually only after long wet periods.  Does not the great quantity of water which here penetrates the earth by capillary action produce electricity in its interior which necessarily must be unloaded by meteoric stimulation when it reaches too great a tension?<ANCHOR ID="n9-3">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: It would be interesting to learn if such countries visited by earthquakes possess a higher degree of earth warmth and a special influence on the isothermal line as well as on the climate, and further if the gradual drawing back of the inner warmth of the earth does not keep step with her age in an incrustation of her pores with upper layers or whether the opposite is not true, that is, whether or not the expansive strength of the earth gases and earth vapors, the breathing of the earth so beneficial to plants, is not determined by the diminishing withdrawal of earth warmth.<ANCHOR ID="n9-4">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-3">It is well known that the earth is most porous below the equator; it is necessary there for the easier absorbtion or decomposition (?) of the intensive heat of the sun and light rays.  Could not there be some connection between this and the not infrequent earthquakes of the tropical countries?  And is it not a fact that these always occur just after the rainy period?</NOTE>
083.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-4">The degree of dependency on the porousness and looseness of the ground of this earth breathing, so beneficial to plants, is especially well shown by the intuitive insight of the farmer who bases the value of plowing on the theory of Dr. Frd. Schmalz, mentioned in Chap. II, "about the ozone in the ground as an inexhaustible source of nitrogen, etc."  The latter believes that after the iron has effected a decomposition of the water whereby iron oxide is formed, the atmospheric air and the meteoric waters of the ozone brought to the farm land which contains clay, humus and iron, combine with the liberated hydrogen to make nitrogen which, as it is a necessary part of atmosphere, escapes.  Partly as such and partly combined with hydrogen and the carbon dioxide produced by the decomposition of the humus to form a carbon monoxide ammonia it serves as nourishment for the plants, a process obstructed most by the lessened ingress of the air.  That is, the lessened looseness of the ground which, as a result of the decomposition of the humus which continues by itself, causes a deoxidation of the iron oxide, so that the iron can again play its ro&circ;le.<HSEP>Heat is developed in all this chemical process, as it is in every chemical decomposition.  The breathing of the earth resembles the life-giving, soulinstilling breath of the Creator.  All who breathe should praise Him declaring His goodness.<HSEP>The attempt to adapt the already wide-spread theories about ozone to the explanation of volcanic activity will not seem entirely inopportune.  At the increased eruption of the volcano a strong current of atmosphere flows to the crater which can only be caused by an electrical attraction or equalization and where we can assume that a chemical decomposition of the nitrogen of the air and formation of water are taking place.  This might be called the breathing process of the volcanoes.  May the honored discoverer of ozone also consider this worthy of a closer examination.</NOTE>
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083.sgm:<P>Thus, one might be tempted to expand these observations and theories to include island elevations, regional submerging or sinking, volcanic eruptions in the sea, coral formations, etc.<ANCHOR ID="n9-5">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: Too many hypotheses, however, too many views and theories can only darken the truth of a matter.  May those which I have dared to offer suffice, they having been adapted in their presentation to the style of these travel pictures.  May they also aid in making clearer to the mind's eye the sight of the volcanoes of Guatemala to which in parting we turn once again.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-5">Although in complete agreement with the nice theories of Darwin and others does this not remind us of the incrustation of copper-sheathed ships by electro-magnetic attraction as well as of the coralization of living mussels, for example, the <HI REND="italics">Chama gigas</HI>
083.sgm:<P>The breezes, pregnant with vapors, rise from the horrible depths in a thick cloud of "rising flame," rushing towards the horizon which frames the colorful starry canopy of the tropics.  While amidst a thundering roar the Cyclops of the volcano forges lightning bolts, releasing the terrible onrushing tornados into the starry, flame-glistening ocean.  "The sailor in his ship is seized with a wild woe" and he is driven away from this "fiery" coast out into the open sea.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Colorfully glistening with a distant motion<LB>Shimmers the alluring blue-green ocean.<LB>Then like a magic lantern show<LB>It bursts as wild winds blow:<LB>"Make way for me!"  With fear I go.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>After the volcanoes, which serve as border marks for Guatemala, are lost from view, we arrive on the shores of Nicaragua.  Lower mountains covered with forests form many narrow gulfs here.  Crescent-shaped Salinas Bay with the town of San Juan del Sur nestled in the background is formed in this way.  This is the landing place of the steamers of the Vanderbilt Line, to which the <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
083.sgm: belongs.  After a pleasant voyage of twelve days I reached my destination.  Most of San Juan del Sur lies beneath a tree canopy of acacias and vines and offers a refreshing resting place to the traveler.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:<P>On their arrival the passengers of the new line are immediately provided with mules by the diligent agent of the company.  One hour later the procession wends its way into the interior towards Virginia, the place of embarking, on Lake Nicaragua.  The path leads through a small, gently rising forest valley, then across the mountain ridge.  Minerals have been sought here and digging has been commenced for the laying of the Nicaragua Canal.  Then we proceed to the sea across the slightly arching, high plateau, where a road for carriage travel is in process of building.  Some native military custom officials stand at the entrance of the pass calling for sympathy from the passing rider rather than respect.  There are forest dwellers just as worthy of pity who offer the stranger their edible forest products for a few <HI REND="italics">quartillos</HI>
083.sgm:.  Finally we are surprised by seeing several <HI REND="italics">assientas</HI>
083.sgm: which, however, lie in ruins.</p><P>This is the entire glory of the present condition of the "Paradise of Mohammed" that is presented to the traveler during his ride of eight hours.  The traces of the notorious sybaritic opulence of Nicaragua are visible only on the seashores and in the direction of the capital.  There, all are captivated by their own great conceit and the traveler is surprised when the <HI REND="italics">Lepero</HI>
083.sgm:, strutting by, throws him a glance of disdain.  The people of Nicaragua know and like nothing but themselves.  Their good humour is characteristic, however, and one cannot be cross with them.</p><P>From Virginia Bay, which received its name from a young adventurous American Virginie, who is said with her Paul to have founded there the first settlement, it takes from eight to ten hours on a small steamer to reach the place where the lake empties into the Rio San Juan.  Fort San Carlos, consisting of a few bamboo barracks and equipped with weathered cannon, looks down from its charming heights towards the steamer which, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:the bearer of civilization to this miserable native refuge, makes an odd contrast.</p><P>Considering the low state of the tropic dweller who lives from day to day, it makes his existence seem the more pitiful.  The appearance of such a product of art and civilization seems to be a brutal intrusion upon the harmonious whole of the tropical scene.  Even the grey bare walls of the castle and the black mouths of the cannon are disturbing and destroy the harmony of the tropical wilderness.  Only bamboo huts, unfinished river and lake boats, and naked man is suitable to the character of the wild tropical landscape.  These things increase the strange, pleasant impression which one is accustomed to seek here.</p><P>Opposite San Carlos in a small inlet near the outlet of the lake I was for the first time delighted by the sight of the Victoria Regina.  Spreading a magic circle of pleasing fragrance this wonderful rose-petaled flower was found here in great abundance.  For me it is the loveliest emblem of tropical vegetation.  Though proud and luxuriant--and aware of her glory, beauty and size she is nevertheless the true forget-me-not of her country.  To the naturalist who has the happiness and good fortune to have spent moments of bliss at her side nothing can be more enduring to the senses than the sight of this queen of the flowers.  The writers of our fairy tales can have no more excellent ideas than to compare this flower sun with a floating divan on which the nixies and undines take their sweet noontide slumber!</p><P>The steamer voyage on the San Juan presents to view all that which charms the senses in the tropics and for him who has already refreshed and satisfied himself at leisure with the glorious tropical green it has the advantage that his fancy does not tire of the unforgettable and ineradicable tropical pictures.  He even becomes delighted in a new way in that his mood becomes especially receptive to the mysterious disarrangement of the tropical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:scenery which, in the hurried passing, seems in even greater confusion so that shape and substance melt into each other.  The greatest beauty and unity lie in this rich variety, calming the mind which again has been stimulated to reflections.  In truth, on the Riviera of the Rio San Juan great confusion and mixture of plant species seems to be the rule.  The beauty of the colors is less in evidence and is less charming than the marvelous play of light and shadow.  The painter would not only find it hard to make out the different forms but to grasp this play of light would be very difficult.  Nevertheless, it would lend special charm to the water-color painting or photograph of such a fragment of tropical forest.</p><P>The upper course of the San Juan is gentle but at the rocky roofs below the <HI REND="italics">rapidos</HI>
083.sgm: it becomes rushing and dangerous for the boatman.  Here the passengers must disembark to go around by land and then continue the journey in a smaller steamer.  Frequently the flat-bottomed steamer scrapes the rocky reefs, is caught by the force of the current and rushed along by it into the bank between trees, or is in danger of smashing upon a rock.  The native who has grown up on the San Juan knows the exact location of these obstacles, however, and therefore, when the water is low the pilot uses him as a compass.  Nevertheless, the trip is much delayed and it is necessary to anchor at night.  After a hot, fatiguing day this affords new enjoyment for the traveler.  He patiently spends a sleepless night at the steamer rail in the midst of a crowd of passengers.  Bloodthirsty mosquitoes swarm about his head, while the <HI REND="italics">Araquatos</HI>
083.sgm: make a deafening noise which mingles with the monotone howling of the alligators who loll about in the moonlight or carry on wild orgies before our eyes.</p><P>The trip on the San Juan usually takes from one to one and a half days.  Leaving the gloomy forest we arrive in the sandy bay of San Juan del Norte where the sudden sight of the ocean is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:surprising.  Here the town of the same name or Grey-Town with its grey, weatherbeaten wooden buildings scattered over the meadow, presents an aspect that is scarcely pleasing.  It has but little to offer in the way of making our stay pleasant.  If the air is not oppressively sultry, chilly sea breezes blow through the flimsy dwellings bringing with them malarial fevers which often wreak havoc among the French creoles and colored inhabitants of the town.  Everywhere we meet thin, wan creatures, enervated by illness, with pale melancholy faces, pictures of weakness and impotence.  From the mosquito-royal palace, which differs only in name from the other buildings to the hut of the proletariat, all is desolate, grey, and horrible justifying the name of Grey-Town.</p><P>Nowhere is there a trace of activity.  Several <HI REND="italics">Cholos</HI>
083.sgm:, longing to catch fish, float around the bay in their clumsy boats, keeping a watchful eye on the alligators lolling on the shore near the mouth of the Rio San Juan.  They bury the heads of these beasts near their huts, allowing them to decay there,<ANCHOR ID="n9-6">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: so as to sell the ivory.  This has become a quite profitable business since artificial teeth have gained such favor and so many among the fair sex either desire or must have crocodile teeth.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-6">I believe that I have observed the musk smell which the alligator spreads to be most strong near decaying individuals.  Is there not perhaps a connection between this and Geiger's assumption that musk smell is due to foulness and decay?</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>A boat, loaded with fustic, comes down the river to the shore.  Since reforestation has been so unreasonably opposed its owner expended much time and labor in gathering the wood with which he will pay his master a maintenance debt.  Looking at the sons of John Bull garrisoned here the same picture of sweet <HI REND="italics">far niente</HI>
083.sgm: is visible, only, of course, in somewhat English style.  Grey death frequently wakens life among them, however, when they must escort one of their comrades to his grave, as they are required to wear full dress at these funerals.  Gleaming and quiet the military procession crawls to a place in the delta.  The coffin, shovel, and a hatchet are placed on a simple boat, which carries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:them to the island of the dead.  They are accompanied by two soldiers and a native who bury the coffin there in the realm of the alligators.</p><P>Rebellions and attacks against the existing government are other conspicuous activities in this place which show the happy social conditions of this perplexed and inactive people.  These, however, are throttled as soon as they occur.  Since the migration of the Americans, however, special efforts have been made to make friends with them so as to appeal to their aid in making a political change.  Whenever a large number of strangers are in Grey-Town the longing for political independence is stirred anew in the hearts of the inhabitants and all are ready for mutiny.  When the strangers have departed all the squares are deserted and empty and a few English bayonets and cannon mouths can instil obedience and fear in them.  Only time and accidents will make changes here.</p><P>Opposite Grey-Town, on the peninsula of Port Arena, an American settlement has been started, the nucleus of which is a hotel and the buildings of the steamship companies.  The ocean steamers are stationed here ready for departure when the small San Juan river steamers arrive.  Content soon to be leaving the sinister place we float hopefully out into the ocean towards more pleasant things.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">La siempre fiel Isla de Cuba</HI>
083.sgm: "<ANCHOR ID="n9-7">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: which, according to statements made by the American Union will fall into her lap when the time is ripe, is the first sight which wipes out the impressions gathered on the east coast of Nicaragua.  Even from a distance the world famous island and the harbor of Havana smiles charmingly at us with her masts, decorated with pennants, but on approaching the foreground of the harbor these disappear behind old bare walls.  A fortress, its walls covered with vines and its colossal towers and many loop-holes reminding us of centuries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:when might made right, stands on massive rocks that project into the sea.  This fortress forms the profile of Havana and conceals the "Pearl of the Antilles."  We shudder at sight of it and wish ourselves elsewhere with the Americans who are accustomed to seeing the greatest wealth and display in the foreground of a harbor and are impressed more by lovely cottages than by fortresses.  The bothersome customs inspection, the examination of papers, and other police measures with which the new arrivals are greeted in true old-Spanish inquisitorial style serve also to make the entrance into Havana, unpleasant and disagreeable.  But a beautiful lady of the West Indies conceals within herself, in her heart, enough delights to make us forget these vexations of her "faithful guardians" as she makes our tour of the city very enjoyable.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-7">The always faithful island of Cuba.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>With great pleasure we look down the narrow, awning shaded streets, which look cooler, however, than they really are.  Everywhere the new and noteworthy things of a peculiar metropolis are visible.  The bright play of colors, of the white, red, blue and yellow painted houses gives their low massive architecture, designed to withstand earthquakes, a somewhat less clumsy, gloomy look.  The many terraces and spires of the city make the houses seem less uncouth beneath the smiling heavens.  The strange exterior of Havana is completely in keeping with its situation and harmonizes with the character of the landscape.</p><P>In the main streets shop after shop can be found with a stock comparable in every way to the first-class shops of New York, London or Paris.  Banners planted in front of some of the most important ones bearing such names as "La Esperanza," "La Estrella," "Los Hermanos," "La Caridad" can be seen from quite a distance.  Unfortunately the streets have very narrow sidewalks so that they seem very Spanish [odd] to the American who is accustomed in his cities to walk on broad walks.  This is especially <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:true if he has acquired an original walk in the wilderness of the gold region.  Individuals of this type are not much liked in Havana and are characterized by the Havana nickname "Californio."<ANCHOR ID="n9-8">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-8">The fine gentlemen of Havana hate too much the bad habits of tobacco chewing and boxing to extend social favors to the common American practicing them.  Boxing "gentlemen" who perhaps believe that they earn this name because coming from the gold country they carry so much of that noble [metal] on their bodies are very aptly compared by the inhabitants of Havana with those first Spanish adventurers who put the value of the Brazilian diamonds to the hammer test but who lost so much by doing this, as they crushed the valuable stones.  They also compare them to the wild little Esquimaux who like to break their noses so that they can swallow the blood.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>The interior of the houses of Havana leaves nothing to be desired in the way of elegance and comfort.  The ground floors consist usually of a marble-walled parlor with high, portal-like windows which have no protection against the peering of the passerby--a candor especially remarkable in a monarchy.  There is a row of chairs along the walls of the parlor, the <HI REND="italics">Tertulias</HI>
083.sgm:, on which the social circle of the house celebrate their beloved <HI REND="italics">Tertulia</HI>
083.sgm:.  Scattered about the room are several hammocks, those pieces of furniture that are indispensable for diversion in Havana.  The most unique piece of furniture, however, is the <HI REND="italics">Volante</HI>
083.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">Tarantula</HI>
083.sgm:, the carefully cleaned carriage, richly decorated with silver, which always occupies the foreground of the parlor and earns the admiration of the stranger.  The high wheels, broadly arched springs, and high, projecting coachman's seat give it the form of a Tarantula spider and when spirited ponies are harnessed to it so that it floats along as if it had wings, the name <HI REND="italics">Volante</HI>
083.sgm: is also justified.</p><P>The great cleanliness of the houses and streets of Havana is fitting but not surprising because it is the main determining factor for the health of the tropics dweller as well as is the great luxury coupled wth comfort and leisure.  The first-class coffee houses are unexcelled.  Here in the evening the stranger can observe the pleasant life of the Havana world of fashion with its passion for elegance.  At the same time countless fragrant aromas of refreshments and drinks give promise of delicacies which make him admire the extremely refined taste of the inhabitants of the city.  Every aroma here is as fragrant and smells as good and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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083.sgm:fine as that of the Havana cigar to its fancier and certainly the Havana has no equal.</p><P>A great liking for gardens is also evident in Havana.  In the cafe&acute;s, wherever it is suitable and there is sufficient room, rose bushes, orangeries, and shrubs are planted and carefully tended.  The city itself has many parks where both the foreigner and the native can feast his eyes on his favorite flowers.  The Bishop's garden is one of the glorious places of West Indian garden art.  Unfortunately, however, its original nai&die;ve form has been somewhat neglected and the unity of the idea has been crowded out by the rank tropical vegetation.  The surroundings of the city resemble a very extensive garden.  Extending far across the island are the so-called <HI REND="italics">Cabellarias</HI>
083.sgm: or many intermingled tobacco, sugar cane and banana fields.  Each is planted there to aid the growth of the other.  The tall banana and sugar plants protect the delicate tobacco shrub from wind and sun, while they withdraw the superfluous dampness from the earth.  The eye rests long and gladly on this land where beauty and utility are created everywhere by art and nature.  The freshness of that weed alive and growing can give pleasure even to him who despises it in its withered and dried state.</p><P>When the vegetation out here begins to be swathed with the veils of night, life in Havana begins to show itself in all its vegetative expressions and it seems as if day were just dawning for the inhabitants of the city.</p><P>The high portals of the dwellings open and the <HI REND="italics">Volantes</HI>
083.sgm: come forth.  The horses are impatient and hurry at a rapid pace through the streets with reins held tense by the <HI REND="italics">Calesero</HI>
083.sgm:, the negro in colorful jockey costume.  The <HI REND="italics">Volante</HI>
083.sgm: sways on its sensitive springs with the three <HI REND="italics">Donnas</HI>
083.sgm: dressed simply but in rich silks.  (The number three calls forth a comparison with the Three Graces.)  To see--or to be seen, they sway in it as if a Venetian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:gondola.  Soon one Caballero after the other comes riding along and their richly decorated saddles and harness make them worthy companions of the <HI REND="italics">Volante</HI>
083.sgm:.</p><P>On the <HI REND="italics">Paseo</HI>
083.sgm:, the boulevard-like promenade of Havana, one solid row of carriages passes up and another row passes down in the best order.  They are without that scornful and supercilious speed so often evident on similar occasions in the French metropolis where the streets seem still to be regarded as a circus riding ring.  <HI REND="italics">Volantes</HI>
083.sgm: here, <HI REND="italics">Volantes</HI>
083.sgm: there, just as if they had suddenly sprung from the earth.  What a sight the many <HI REND="italics">Trias volantes</HI>
083.sgm: make with their fiery glances, their " <HI REND="italics">Lampeggiar dell' angelico riso</HI>
083.sgm:,"<ANCHOR ID="n9-9">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: their uncovered braids adorned with roses and ornaments, and their small animated, gesturing hands!</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-9">The sparkle of her English [angelic?] smile.</NOTE>
083.sgm:<P>On the Plaza de Armas all move colorfully from one alley to the other, ending the circling in a cafe&acute;.  In the meantime the military band of the city has arrived and serenades increase the animation and heighten the pleasure of the evening recreation.  The onlooker whose heart does not beat <HI REND="italics">fortissimo</HI>
083.sgm: and whose breast does not glow resembles the <HI REND="italics">Papel quemado</HI>
083.sgm: by which the ladies of Havana describe a married man, and also an apathetic one, whom they despise as much as they do the smell of the so-called burnt paper of their <HI REND="italics">cigarillos</HI>
083.sgm:.  Surrounded by the courtesy of Havana you must smile joyfully on this serenade place.  Why even the statue of Ferdinand III under the four royal palms opposite the palace of the Captain-general smiles on all.</p><P>After several hours the tumult disappears, the band withdraws into the background near the chapel of great Columbus and it seems as if their last serenade was meant for the spirit of the immortalized admiral.  Soon only a few solitary <HI REND="italics">Sen&tilde;ors</HI>
083.sgm: are visible here and there.  These can scarcely stop their passionate tobacco smoking and thus continue to glimmer and smell, like a living <HI REND="italics">Vuelta abajo</HI>
083.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n9-10">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: far into the night.  The streets are empty.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:Hardly, however, has the <HI REND="italics">Volante</HI>
083.sgm: been returned to its resting place in the center of the spacious parlor, when the social gaieties of the Havana soiree begin.  While polite society here surpasses itself and tires its senses with the choicest favors and sweet things, in the distant quarters of the city the night life flies with weary wings to its accustomed place.  The castanets in the dancer's hands resound until the night grows cooler and cooler and calls to more active pleasures.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-10"><HI REND="italics">Vuelta abajo</HI>
083.sgm:<P>In spite of the daily repetition of these delightful activities it will be a long time before the stranger feels at home in Havana as it is difficult for him to gain admittance to a more intimate social intercourse.  He sees everywhere the longing for prominence, a caricaturing of authority that is either repugnant to him or to which he does not care to submit.  The foreigners in Havana form a closed circle and can be easily recognized both by their clothes and because they have retained their social customs.  The retaining of mode of dress is especially true among the foreign ladies who find it difficult to appear in the costume of Havana.</p><P>Nevertheless, the clothing of the lady is as suitable as it is in good taste, and is her substitute for the circlet of Venus.  She has, as the proverb says, her head in the air ( <HI REND="italics">tiene la Cabeza al aire</HI>
083.sgm: ).  She avoids any headdress as in this heat it would not only be a bother but would injure the growth of the hair which, together with her dainty hands and small feet,<ANCHOR ID="n9-11">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: the smallest of all misfortunes is considered a special decoration.  All her clothing is as light as possible and in the lightest, most light-breaking colors.  Jewels are a bother, and her favorite ornament by day is a fragrant rose, which is worn also by the poor girls who sell flowers.  At night it seems to be, suprisingly enough, the firefly or <HI REND="italics">Caqualumne</HI>
083.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n9-12">*</ANCHOR>
083.sgm: worn under a flowing crepe veil, which takes the place of the heavy silk shawl, and thus starry-trimmed they shimmer through the night like a living minaret.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-11">If the beautiful foot be the surest indication of a beautiful body, that is, a symmetrical, well-arranged figure, and if it be a correct rule of psychologists that a beautiful soul dwells in a beautiful form, then the foot can rightfully be considered the indicator of the mental personality of its owner, especially when its motions are as lovely as its form, and the ladies of Havana and their equals, the ladies of Panama, who the proverb says have the smallest feet and largest hearts and to whom, of all tropical dwellers of the feminine sex, the apple of Paris is awarded, first justify this hypothesis.  What far greater reward for the <HI REND="italics">Podoscopiker</HI>
083.sgm: to pursue his studies of the foot where the <HI REND="italics">Podoscoptiker</HI>
083.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-12"><HI REND="italics">Caqualumne (Eleater</HI>
083.sgm: ), literally translated, Light evacuator, and ironically used to designate scientists.  The Havana ladies who like to decorate themselves with these <HI REND="italics">Caqualumnes</HI>
083.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<P>These and other distinctions and peculiarities of the ladies of Havana perhaps show their childlike spirit which differentiates them from others of their sex and also reminds the observer that harmony rarely rules among the fair sex except in fortune or misfortune and this should be looked for when observing a foreign nation.</p><P>No matter how short the visit to Havana the traveler will return to his ship with the loveliest memories, refreshed and strengthened for a continuation of his voyage.  The ocean stretching between him and his destination again seems inviting and with renewed vigor the steamer cuts across it northwards towards the harbor of New York which is reached in a few days.</p><P>New York is as well known as a European metropolis.  It has few surprises to offer to him who approaches it by sea for the second time and who has lived there unless he enter the social vortex which moves through all stages from Whit-Hall to Bloomingdale and which resembles the <HI REND="italics">Cimitiere des Innocens</HI>
083.sgm:, a grave that is always open, always full and always empty.</p><P>There was nothing here worthy of special mention to interest me when coming from the southern wonderland.  On the steamer <HI REND="italics">Prometheus</HI>
083.sgm: I reached the snow and ice covered borders of Acadia.  In the riotous American city I spent my last days on the new continent.  Thoughtfully turned towards the Old World I boarded the floating steam palace <HI REND="italics">Baltic</HI>
083.sgm:.  Soon to the roar of cannon we glided forth toward Old England and the harbor of Liverpool.</p><P>There was quite a large number of passengers on board.  The great comfort of the ship enabled them to pass the time pleasantly in social entertainment.  They were mostly Europeans but who could have recognized them as such?  Perhaps only a single decade had Americanized them, bringing to one material fortune and to the other knowledge, but subjecting all to that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:entirely of Americans, he discovers among them new customs and manners.  These do not harmonize with his, so he does not care to imitate them at first but later he becomes reconciled to them when he sees that they are more profitable and are necessary for his future position.  In the quiet, thoughtful and tactful manner which never leaves the American in any situation he finds a magic power, a human strength of will which he admires because it shames him and which he attempts to adopt as it is the yardstick on which the American measures the inner worth of a man.  He will see in the captain, if he be a true American, the embodiment of the conception "gentleman" and he will see that each of the crew endeavors to be likewise and strives for respect and distinction.</p><P>The fibers of his heart tremble at the cry of "land" and all his attention is focused on the American pilot for whom he has yearned and who, like Noah's dove, quickly circles the ship with his light, narrow, truly American built boat.  He comes on board and then the emigrant who is tired of the ship gladly greets the first ambassador of the Far West.  Modestly and shyly he stands back from him, however, as the American pilot seems to him to be a cold gentleman whose indifferent glance looks over the curious crowd as if there were something shameful about them.  Is it heartlessness, is it pride, is it contempt?  No, it is nothing but pity that he evidences when he looks at this crowd of humans to whom he is to give the last safe escort before they embark on their new careers where so much trouble awaits them.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh, had you known what was in store<LB>What goal you would meet on the other shore<LB>You would have trembled in greatest fear<LB>The "land" and "pilot" cry to hear.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>The ship glides into the harbor and the emigrant, now an immigrant sets his tottering, uncertain feet on the new shore.  He cannot at first grasp all that he sees and hears going on around <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:and no loss of time is involved.  He sees also that one cannot live here on idealism, that in America one realizes, while in Europe one idealizes.</p><P>When the gods departed from Olympus, Mercury was exiled to the New World.  The happy god of commerce with money bag in hand still dwells among the Americans spurring them on with his twisted stick to commerce and greed.  The American remains faithful to him, like the Greenlander to his Torngaruk, from whom without any effort he receives an abundance of everything.  It is true that Mercury's favorites labor but little.  They are not damned to earn their bread in the sweat of their brow.  They obtain their wealth with an easy flair for speculation and are not stingy with it but dissipate it all to obtain the greatest pleasures for their existence.  It is just because the American lives so well, denying himself nothing, that his energy and speculative spirit are so excellent.  That is why he is also free of all frivolous commercial spirit and of <HI REND="italics">Gagnepetits</HI>
083.sgm:, knows nothing of higgling but concerns himself only with Plain Dealing, whereby he saves so much time and chatter.  All his commerce is speculation and calculation, even the lowest door to door peddler is a speculator and calculator who will dare anything if he can find ways and means.  Fortune helps the bold and lack of self-confidence brings misfortune to enterprises.  Fearlessness and great determination made the American an accurate judge of every business for which he is always ready if he can find any percents and credits in it.  In this respect he is a most alert fellow who proves the meaning of the words.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>One Englishman can fight<LB>Two "Portugee"<LB>But Yankeedoodle's right<LB>Can win in any fight<LB>With all three.<LB></HI>
083.sgm:</p><P>If he has credit he is a safe man who always cal'lates for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:their <HI REND="italics">public spirit</HI>
083.sgm:, a general trait not adequately described by the word patriotism, and it would be very fitting to use the words of advice as to how the good husband should trust his wife in one of Prior's ballads: "Be to her faults a little blind, be to her virtues very kind."</p><P>This freedom and activity of movement in commerce and intercourse has its special charm for the newcomer striving to make his way.  When he becomes more familiar with it and adapts himself to it he becomes more closely attached to the nation.  The foreigners needs a great deal of time and study of character to acquire a knowledge of American intercourse, especially the way to make him popular with men with whom he wishes to deal lucratively.  The spirit of commerce is anti-social.  It would be almost easier for him to become an American than to learn to understand his character if the latter did not often have moods which make him bearable socially.  In difficult or ecstatic moments the American does not reveal his personality by facial expression, gesture, or even attitude.  He is completely master of himself and all his passions, and keeps his character, which he is always attempting to make peculiar to his own nation, behind a locked door to which no one but himself has the key.  The American learns first of all to be silent and calm, before he learns how to speak and to express himself.  <HI REND="italics">Sapiens semper in se reconditur</HI>
083.sgm:.  That is why it seems that now, after half a century, Hume's words: "The English nation is the only one in the world which has no special character unless this trait serves for one," are applicable to the Americans.</p><P>All these traits have their advantages in a great commerical nation.  If the newcomer is not able immediately to understand the character of an American he anticipates this by imitating the people whom he meets every day.  By adopting their strange views and expressions as the reflection and echo of his own, he becomes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:changed and amalgamated, frequently without being able to understand or explain the actual occurrence.</p><P>When impetuous questioners bothered the youth who, driven by a burning thirst for knowledge went to Sais in Egypt to learn the secret wisdom of the priests, he answered "I do not know what I saw."  When the returning Americanized European emigrant is asked about the causes of his individual transformation he is rarely even aware of it.  It is also not surprising that the traveler's descriptions of American character differ so widely and that there is little assurance of their accuracy.  It is difficult to judge a nation correctly which disdains a middle course and is so fond of extremes.  Brother John [Uncle Sam] is also a real Proteus who must be seen in his various metamorphoses in order to recognize his true form.  The continual ferment of political transition which travels from the senate to the most distant farmer's hut and the school bench, has a very strong effect on the whole body and elements of society.  The golden rule "Never pass a biased judgment!" should be applied here.  To him who travels through America the nation presents a new aspect daily.  When he bids it farewell he hardly knows whether he should love it or censure it, that is, in connection with his experiences here.</p><P>I fared no better.  The more I tried to see into the heart of the American nation and the country and obtain a stereotype view of them the more biased my prejudices became.  Thus, I was undecided on my return trip whether I should be happier or sadder about looking back at recent events or looking towards the future.  That I did not lose myself too deeply in these elusive reflections was also due to the rapidity of steam travel which so violently shakes body and soul.</p><P>In a dreamy mood I stood on the quarter deck of the <HI REND="italics">Baltic</HI>
083.sgm:.  New York, over which the evening sky spanned its pure arch, lay before me while above me the fire-striped starry banner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
083.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
083.sgm:fluttered towards the heavens whose emblems it wears so proudly.  With fast beating heart I leaned against the flag pole and it seemed as if the wide-spread banner whispered an "Auf Wiedersehen!" to me in which I joined involuntarily.  Then it bent down to me as if it would embrace me--it had been lowered by the sailor standing next to me who had whispered the "Auf Wiedersehen!" across the waves to shore.  Who knows what memories he had!</p><P>New York and America had disappeared.  The cold northeast wind roared around the steamer <HI REND="italics">Baltic</HI>
083.sgm:.  Consuming daily from seven to eight tons of fuel she labored through the ocean.  Approaching Europe I yielded more and more to those heart-deluging emotions of home which neither time or destiny has power to supplant.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Though horrible people we leave behind<LB>With the abandoned nest we're still entwined.</HI>
086.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-086</TITLE>
086.sgm:<TITLE>The diary of Johann August Sutter, with an introduction by Douglas S. Watson: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
086.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
086.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
086.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
086.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
086.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>34-13250</LCCN>
086.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
086.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 72396</COPYRIGHT>
086.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<illus entity="a086-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHANN AUGUST SUTTER <HI REND="italics">after a portrait painted in</HI>
086.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<P>The Diary of</p><P>Johann</p><P>August Sutter</p><P><HI REND="italics">With an Introduction by</HI>
086.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">Douglas S. Watson</HI>
086.sgm:</p><P>THE GRABHORN PRESS<LB>SAN FRANCISCO :: 1932</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Copyright 1932, by The Grabborn Press</HI>
086.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<illus entity="a086-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ANNA DUBELT SUTTER <HI REND="italics"><LB>after a water-color painted before</HI>
086.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TO<LB>THE READER</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Grabborn Press wishes to make acknowledgement to Mrs. M. Van Wolbeck of San Francisco, for permission to publish the portraits of her grandparents, Johann August Sutter and Anna Dubelt Sutter.  The facsimile of the muster roll is from the original in the collection of Mr. Edwin Grabborn, as is likewise the original lithograph of Sutter's Fort.</HI>
086.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Life of<LB>Johann<LB>August Sutter</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">by Douglas S. Watson</HI>
086.sgm:</p><P>IN the German Grand Duchy of Baden, at Kandern, there was born on the last day of February, 1803, to a Swiss family named Suter<ANCHOR ID="ni-1">*</ANCHOR>
086.sgm: a male child who, though baptized Johann August, became known in after life as Captain John A. Sutter.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-1">Californien Land und Leute:  <HI REND="italics">Leipsig, 1871</HI>
086.sgm:<P>No figure in the swift moving story of the West has been more loosely written about.  He has been dramatized, caricatured, idealized.  By some he has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ii</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:raised to the heights of a superman; by others lowered to the status of a befuddled drunkard.  The truth regarding Sutter is seldom spoken.  He was an adventurer; a planter of civilization in the wilderness, and through his efforts alone was due the Discovery of Gold in California, the results of which peopled the former Spanish and Mexican province with Americans who laid the foundations of our present day commonwealth.</p><P>Sutter, picturesque adventurer; German born; Swiss, American, Mexican, and again American by successive naturalizations, was the victim of circumstances which would have overwhelmed men of the most resolute fibre--circumstances which tossed him about as viciously as if caught in the grip of angry, swirling waters.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iii</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<P>At 31 a bankrupt, he fled his creditors, leaving his wife Anna Dubelt Sutter and their four children in Burgdorf, Switzerland.  Reaching New York he determined to seek fortune in the then Far West, there to retrieve his failure.  The Indiana backwoods were unkind to one whose hands had never held an ax, and he moved on to the Missouri frontier.</p><P>Then followed an essay into land speculation at St. Charles, which proved disastrous.  An attempt to establish himself as a trader into Santa Fe proved unfruitful, and he finally was cast up in 1838 in that great entrepot of the fur trade--St. Louis.</p><P>There began his Odyssey which led him to the Wind River, to the Hudson's Bay Company's Fort Vancouver on the Columbia, to the tropical delights of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:Honolulu, and then by way of Sitka, at length, to California.</p><P>Sutter was an amiable man, quick to make friends, eager to leave upon all a good impression.  Though poor in pocket, he was rich in imagination.  A fictitious portrait of his past he painted with gusto for the delectation of his listeners.  The tale of his military career as officer of the Swiss Guards of Charles X of France was so often repeated that finally its author almost came to believe it.<ANCHOR ID="ni-2">*</ANCHOR>
086.sgm: Small in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:stature, this magnified his importance. The self-bestowed title of Captain sat easily upon his braced shoulders and gave credence to his assumed martial bearing.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-2"><P><HI REND="italics">Here is a letter received from a descendant of the Captain.  It has to do with this much disputed point in Sutter's eventful career.  "Reverend Schoonover who wrote</HI>
086.sgm: Life and Times of General Sutter <HI REND="italics">[T. J. Schoonover, Sacramento, 1895] claims that he (Sutter) served as Captain in the French Army under Charles X, and you state that he did not....Which is right?  You or Reverend Schoonover?  I say you are right.  John A. Sutter never served in the French Army.  I know this to be perfectly true because I had investigated it and nothing could be found in this regard in the French Records</HI>
086.sgm:...."</p><P><HI REND="italics">The above, quoted only in part, addressed to the writer of this foreword, is signed; "Reginald Sutter, grandson of General Sutter"</HI>
086.sgm:<P>Officials of Hudson's Bay Company, prominent residents of Honolulu, Russians in high places at Sitka, accepted the genial adventurer at his face value and gave him contributions to the precious packet of letters of introduction and recommendations he later used to so great advantage.  Like a snow-ball this sheaf of credentials grew; it laid the foundations for his monumental scheme of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:exploitation of the Sacramento waste-lands and so impressed Governor Juan Bautista Alvarado, when the wanderer reached California in the summer of 1839, that there was granted to him eleven square leagues of virtual sovereignty where the Rio de los Americanos flowed into the Sacramento River; and all this at the mere price of abandoning his recently acquired American citizenship for Mexican overlordship.</p><P>With a handful of followers, mostly Kanakas, he began his New Helvetia settlement.  His successful handling of the savage Indians, and a slow accretion in numbers of adventurous spirits like himself, pulled him through those first years when success hung in the balance.  With the building of his Fort and the increase in immigration from the United States, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:the future of his establishment became assured.  His ready geniality provided what he needed.  Herd-owning Dons sold him cattle and horses on credit.  Indians cleared, sowed and harvested his grain fields.  From wild grapes, his distillery made a famous brandy.  Beaver and land otter skins were bartered for necessities, and with native military acumen, his fort was garrisoned with savages drilled into something more than a semblance to soldiery, and, as he remarks in a note on the muster roll reproduced at the end of this volume, commanded in German.</p><P>From being a nobody, Sutter with the years found himself a person of consequence, a man even governors of California were glad to have as friend.</p><P>The Russians, who had exhausted the fur possibilities of their establishments <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:at Bodega and Fort Ross, decided to abandon California and were looking for a buyer.  Sutter presented himself.  He had no money, yet he would buy; and he did, on credit.  Among the moveables he obtained--for the Russians had no title to the land--were herds of cattle, bands of horses, droves of sheep and swine, and, best of all, a schooner the lord of New Helvetia rechristened "Sacramento."  This extended his military adjuncts, for it provided him with a navy, and made him as independent of the existing government as any medieval baron.  In truth he was Lord of the Marches, for to his other activities he had added the coinage of money, even if it was tin money; pieces of that metal stamped with figures denoting its value and which he accepted in trade at his Fort.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<P>At length his pseudo-title of Captain became real, for Manuel Micheltorena, the new governor Mexico had sent to California, feeling the need of adequate military support, called Sutter to him at Monterey and made him captain of Mexican militia.  In return for this recognition, Sutter later came to the Governor's aid when that official was beset with revolt.  The disastrous campaign of 1845, while it ousted Micheltorena, found Sutter with a second grant of land--this time of 22 square leagues in extent.  Such was his situation when the American flag was raised over California by Commodore John Drake Sloat at Monterey, July 7, 1846.</p><P>Where once the Mexican tri-color had floated over Sutter's Fort, now the Stars and Stripes snapped in the breeze.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:Fremont and his enlarged survey crew were in possession, and the Lord of New Helvetia found himself again on American soil, but as an unbidden guest in his own establishment.  The command of his Fort was given into the hands of Edward M. Kern, the artist of Fremont's survey party, and Johann August Sutter by authority of the letter of August 16, 1846, quoted here, became a lieutenant of the land forces of the United States:</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">The appointment of Capt. Sutter as Lieutenant on the terms mentioned in my letter of the 8th. is approved and will be continued until further orders.  It is necessary, however, that he take the oath of allegiance to the U.S.A</HI>
086.sgm:."</p><P>This was addressed to Edward M. Kern, "commanding post at Fort Sacramento," and was signed J. S. Misroon, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:Lt. U.S.N." Misroon was acting under the orders of Captain John B. Montgomery of the <HI REND="italics">U.S.S. Portsmouth</HI>
086.sgm:, who in turn reported to Commodore R.F. Stockton, he having succeeded Commodore Sloat in command of the naval forces in California.</p><P>Sutter's stipend was fixed at $50.00 a month, and as second in rank he did much of the "paperwork" of the "post" where formerly he had been monarch of all he surveyed.</p><P>Sutter's life was never monotonous.  The path of his career led over high mountains and into deep valleys.  The ups and downs ever found him buoyant; an optimist whose eyes were scanning the horizon for the first signs of the dawn of a new day.</p><P>Back again in command of his Fort <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:after the occupation period, his mind turned to schemes of aggrandizement.  He sat at the crossing of two highways of immigration; that from the East by way of the Great Salt Lake, and the road leading down from Oregon.  To his distillery, a tannery had been added, and now he planned a great flour mill to supply the steady stream of new-comers trudging westward to the promised land--California.</p><P>A sawmill was necessary.  The oaks of the valley and the jack pines of the nearby foothills did not make good lumber, and so a search for a stream which might turn a mill was undertaken; one that flowed through timber suitable for his purpose.  A mill-wright named James Wilson Marshall from New Jersey found what was wanted; a forest of tall pines <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:bordering the south fork of the American river.  Marshall and Sutter entered into a partnership.  The mill was started, Mormon workmen, honorably discharged soldiers of Lt. Col. Philip St. George Cook's Mormon battalion, camped at mill site, known later as Coloma.</p><P>Marshall's discovery of those first golden flakes January 24, 1848 in the race of Sutter's sawmill started the mad scramble after quick riches that history calls the "Gold Rush."  California, Sutter and Gold became household words the world over.  What had been a precarious foothold in the wilderness a short nine years before, now took on the prominence of a metropolis.  Sutter's Fort became the mecca toward which the eager feet of all gold seekers turned.</p><P>The onrush of the race for wealth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:was like the letting loose of the pent-up waters of a mighty torrent.  It swept everything before it.  Sutter's wealth in cattle disappeared; his fort was turned into a thriving mart; his Indians and white employees deserted him.  He was left bewildered, and sought refuge on the banks of the Feather River where he possessed what he called Hock Farm.</p><P>Just one more high spot was destined to mark his career.  Upon the call of the American military governor, Gen. Bennet Riley, for a Constitutional Convention to formulate an organic law for California, Sutter was chosen as a delegate.  Through the long sessions of this gathering at Monterey in September and October of 1849 Sutter sat in silence, save on one notable occasion.  A proposal had been advanced that only those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:residents who had brought their families with them to California should be given the franchise.  Then it was that Johann August Sutter rose in his place.  "That would deprive me of my vote, though I have been long in California," he protested plaintively.  For during all those years since 1834 Anna Dubelt Sutter and their children had remained in far off Switzerland.  Soon Sutter was to send for them.</p><P>When the convention ended its labors, Sutter was honored with the task of presenting to Governor Riley the result of its deliberations.  This was the peak of his political life; the moment of greatness of which he had long dreamed.  It was a recognition of his prominence.  With tears in his eyes and a trembling hand, he passed the charter of California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:liberties to Governor Riley and spoke a few halting words.</p><P>Thirty-two long years of strife and struggle followed.  The family came.  They found the once resourceful pioneer bowed with bitterness.  Squatters were contesting the title to his hard won possessions.  Grasping lawyers were assailing his rights.  From Court to Court they dragged the bewildered Sutter, stripping him of what was rightfully his.  From affluence he sank to a grateful receiver of alms when the State of California granted him a pension of $250.00 a month.  Then he turned his back on the scenes of his triumphs and in the little Moravian settlement of Lititz in Pennsylvania, where the Brethren of the Unity received him and asked no questions, he found asylum.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<P>His efforts to induce Congress to recognize his woes and give him relief were all in vain.  He became a familiar figure about the Capitol during sessions, urging his case, but to no purpose.  In a cheap Washington boarding house he breathed his last; a disappointed, defeated man.</p><P>They buried him in the peace and quiet of the little cemetery at Lititz.  There the simple marble slab which marks the end of his wanderings records the fact that he was born February 28, 1803, and that he died June 18, 1880.</p><P>Six months later another grave was dug at his side for Anna Dubelt Sutter, his wife, whose constant companionship during the last thirty years of his life was Johann August Sutter's greatest consolation.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xviii</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<P>Sutter's co-called Diary appeared in four issues of the San Francisco Argonaut--January 26, February 2, 9, and 16, 1878--and at that time the Argonaut's editor prefaced it with:</p><P><HI REND="italics">"The following rough notes of narrative in the handwriting of the venerable General Sutter, the discoverer of gold in California, were found amongst the papers of an eminent citizen of this State, recently deceased, through the kindly courtesy of whose widow we are enabled to give them to the public.  As a relation of incidents in the life of a man held in respect by every Californian, and as a record of events closely associated with, and largely contributing to, the foundation of American Empire on the Pacific Coast, these hasty and imperfect memoranda will, it is believed, have a double interest and lasting value.  We have thought it best to preserve, as nearly as was practicable, the quaint <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:</p><P>Sutter wrote this narrative with a definite purpose sometime in May or June of the year 1856; that purpose was to place in the hands of his legal advisors the facts of his life from the day of his departure from St. Louis until the time of its writing so that they might carry on before the United States Land Commission and the Federal Courts his struggle for the confirmation of the title to his two Mexican Land Grants.  The first or Alvarado Grant was finally confirmed; the second or Micheltorena Grant was rejected, resulting in Sutter's poverty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:and his subsequent fruitless attempts at its restoration.</p><P>It is to be regretted that the entries in Sutter's Diary end long before the great adventurer's death, likewise that the original of the narrative has disappeared, but what we fortunately possess does give us more than an inkling of what manner of man was this Johann August Sutter--called by his Spanish-speaking friends, Don Juan Agosto--who carved out for himself a principality in the wilderness of the Sacramento Valley, and there planted seeds of civilization whose fruit was the Discovery of Gold and the ultimate upbuilding of California.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<HEAD>April, 1838</HEAD>
086.sgm:<NOTE>A reference to his previous trading venture to Santa Fe and Taos.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<P>I LEFT the State of Missouri (where I has resided for a many years) on the 1th April, 1838, and travelled with the party of Men under Capt Tripps, of the Amer. fur Compy, to their Rendezvous in the Rocky Mountains (Wind River Valley); from there I travelled with 6 brave Men to Oregon, as I considered myself not strong enough to cross the Sierra Nevada and go direct to California (which was my intention from my first Start on having got some informations from a Gent'n in New Mexico, who has been in California.)</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<NOTE>Sutter's spelling is often phonetic; <HI REND="italics">Dalls</HI>
086.sgm: for <HI REND="italics">Dalles</HI>
086.sgm:<P>Under a good Many Dangers and other troubles I have passed the Different forts or trading posts of the Hudsons Bay Compy, and arrived at the Mission at the Dalls on Columbia River.  From this place I crossed right strait through thick &amp; thin and arrived to the great astonishment of the inhabitants.  I arrived in 7 days in the Valley of the Willamette, while others with good guides arrived only in 17 days previous my Crossing.  At fort Vancouver I has been very hospitably received and invited to pass the Winter with the Gentlemen of the Company, but as a Vessel of the Compy was ready to sail for the Sandwich Islands, I took a passage in her, in hopes to get Soon a Passage from there to California, but 5 long Months I had to wait to find an Opportunity to leave, but not direct to California, except far out of my Way to the Russian American Colonies on the North West Coast, to Sitka the Residence of the Gov'r, (Lat. 57).  I remained one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:Month there and delivered the Cargo of the Brig Clementine, as I had Charge of the Vessel, and then sailed down the Coast in heavy Gales, and entered in Distress in the Port of San Francisco, on the 2d of July 1839.  An Officer and 15 Soldiers came on board and ordered me out, saying that Monterey is the Port of entry, &amp; at last I could obtain 48 hours to get provisions (as we were starving) and some repairings done on the Brig.</p><P>In Monterey I arranged my affairs with the Custom House, and presented myself to Govr. Alvarado, and told him my intention to Settle here in this Country, and that I have brought with me 5 White Men and 8 Kanacas (two of them married).  3 of the Whitemen were Mechanics, he was very glad to hear that, and particularly when I told him, that I intend to Settle in the interior on the banks of the river Sacramento, because the Indians then at this time would not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:allow white Men and particularly of the Spanish Origin to come near them, and was very hostile, and stole the horses from the inhabitants, near San Jose.  I got a General passport for my small Colony and permission to select a Territory where ever I would find it convenient, and to come in one Years time again in Monterey to get my Citizenship and the title of the Land, which I have done so, and not only this, I received a high civil Office ("Representante del Govierno en las fronteras del Norte, y Encargado de la Justicia"). </p><NOTE>S. F.; Sandwich Islands.  Sutter uses the dotted German "j" for "i."</NOTE>
086.sgm:<P>When I left Yerbabuena (now San Francisco) after having leaved the Brig and dispatched her back to the S. J. I bought several small Boats (Launches) and Chartered the Schooner "Isabella" for my Exploring Journey to the inland Rivers and particularly to find the Mouth of the River Sacramento, as I could find Nobody who could give me information, only that they Knew that some very large Rivers are in the interior.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<NOTE>William Heath Davis commanded the <HI REND="italics">Isabella</HI>
086.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Nicholas</HI>
086.sgm:<P>It took me eight days before I could find the entrance of the Sacramento, as it is very deceiving and very easy to pass by, how it happened to several Officers of the Navy afterwards which refused to take a pilot.  About 10 miles below Sacramento City I fell in with the first Indians which was all armed &amp; painted &amp; looked very hostile; they was about 200 Men, as some of them understood a little Spanish I could make a Kind of treaty with them, and the two which understood Spanish came with me, and made me a little better acquainted with the Country.  All other Indians on the up River hided themselves in the Bushes, and on the Mouth of Feather River they runned all away so soon they discovered us.  I was examining the Country a little further up with a Boat, while the larger Crafts let go their Ankers.  On my return all the white Men came to me and asked me how much longer I intended to travell with them in such a Wilderness.  I saw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:plain that it was a Mutiny.  I answered them that I would give them an answer the next Morning and left them and went in the Cabin.</p><P>The following Morning I gave Orders to return, and entered in the American River, landed at the former Tannery on the 12th Augt. 1839.  Gave Orders to get every thing on Shore, pitch the tents and mount the 3 Cannons, called the white Men, and told them that all those which are not contented could leave on board the Isabella next Morning and that I would settle with them imediately and remain alone with the Canacas, of 6 Men 3 remained, and 3 of them I gave passage to Yerbabuena.</p><NOTE>Sutter's use of <HI REND="italics">bow</HI>
086.sgm: for <HI REND="italics">as</HI>
086.sgm:<P>The Indians was first troublesome, and came frequently, and would it not have been for the Cannons they would have Killed us for sake of my property, which they liked very much, and this intention they had very often, how they have confessed to me afterwards, when on good terms.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:I had a large Bull Dog which saved my life 3 times, when they came slyly near the house in the Night: he got hold of and marked them most severely.  In a short time removed my Camps on the very spot where now the Ruins of Sutters fort stands, made acquaintance with a few Indians which came to work for a short time making Adobes, and the Canacas was building 3 grass houses, like it is customary on the Sandwich Islands.  Before I came up here, I purchassed Cattle &amp; Horses on the Rancho of Senor Martinez, and had great difficulties &amp; trouble to get them up, and had to wait for them long time, and received them at least on the 22d October 1839.  Not less then 8 Men wanted to be in the party, as they were afraid of the Indians and had good reasons to be so.</p><NOTE>"f" and "v" with Sutter were interchangeable-- <HI REND="italics">save</HI>
086.sgm: becomes <HI REND="italics">safe</HI>
086.sgm:<P>Before I got the Cattle we was hunting Deer &amp; Elk etc and so afterwards to safe the Cattle as I had then only about 500 head, 50 horses &amp; a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:manada of 25 mares.  One Year, that is in the fall 1840, I bought 1000 head of Cattle of Don Antonio Sunol and a many horses more of Don Joaquin Gomez and others.  In the fall 1839 I have built an Adobe house, covered with Tule and two other small buildings in the middle of the fort; they was afterwards destroyed by fire.  At the same time we cut a Road through the Woods where the City of Sacramento stand, then we made the New Embarcadero, where the old Zinkhouse stands now.  After this it was time to make a Garden, and to sow some Wheat &amp;c.  We broke up the soil with poor Californian ploughs, I had a few Californians employed as Baqueros, and 2 of them making Cal. Carts &amp; stocking the ploughs etc.</p><NOTE><HI REND="italics">manada</HI>
086.sgm:<P>In the Spring 1840. the Indians began to be troublesome all around me, Killing and Wounding Cattle, stealing horses, and threatening to attack us en Mass I was obliged to make Campaigns <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:against them and punish them severely, a little later about 2 a 300 was aproching and got United on Cosumne River, but I was not waiting for them.  Left a small Garrison at home, Canons &amp; other Arms loaded, and left with 6 brave men &amp; 2 Baquero's in the night, and took them by surprise at Day light.  The fighting was a little hard, but after having lost about 30 men, they was willing to make a treaty with me, and after this lecon they behaved very well, and became my best friends and Soldiers, with which I has been assisted to conquer the whole Sacramento and a part of the San Joaquin Valley.</p><NOTE>The French <HI REND="italics">lecon</HI>
086.sgm: for <HI REND="italics">lesson</HI>
086.sgm:<P>They became likewise tolerable good laborers and the boys had to learn mechanical trades; teamster's, Vaquero's, etc.  At the time the Communication with the Bay was very long and dangerous, particularly in open Boats; it is a great Wonder that we got not swamped a many times, all time with an Indian Crew and a Canaca at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March the 18th</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>dispatched a party of White men and Indians in serch for pine timber and went not further up on the Amer. River as about 25 miles, found and cut some but not of a good quality and rafted it down the River.  On the end of the month of March there was an other conspiracy of some Indians, but was soon quelled when I succeeded to disarm them.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>August 17th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>The men who crossed with me the Rocky Mountains with two others had a chance to come from Oregon on board an Amer. Vessel which landed them at Bodega, at the time occupied by the Russians.  When they told the Russian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>August 23d.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Capt. Ringold of Comadore Wilkes' Exploring Squadron arrived on the Embarcadero, piloted by one of the Launches Indian crew; without this they would not have found so easy the entrance of the Sacramento.  They had 6 Whaleboats &amp; 1 Launch, 7 Officers and about 50 men in all.  I was very glad indeed to see them, sent immediately saddled horses for the Officers, and my Clerk with an invitation to come and see me.  At their arrival I fired a salut, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:and furnished them what they needed.  They was right surprised to find me up here in this Wilderness, it made a very good impression upon the Indians to see so many whites are coming to see me, they surveyed the River as far as the Butes.</p><NOTE>Ringgold of Commodore Wilkes' expedition.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>September 4th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Arrived the Russian Govr Mr. Alexander Rottcheff on board the Schooner Sacramento, and offered me their whole Establishment at Bodega &amp; Ross for sale, and invited me to come right of with him, as there is a Russian Vessel at Bodega, and some Officers with plein power, to transact this business with me, and particularly they would give me the preference, as they became all acquainted with me, during a months stay at Sitka.  I left and went with him down to the Bay in Company with Capt. Ringold's Expedition.  What for a fleet we thought then, is on the River.  Arriving at Bodega, we came very soon to terms, from there we went to fort Ross where they showed me everything and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:returned to Bodega again, and before the Vessel sailed we dined on board the Helena, and closed the bargain for $30,000, which has been paid.  And other property, was a separate account which has been first paid.</p><NOTE>The clerk was John Bidwell.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>September 28th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>I dispatched a number of men and my Clerk by Land to Bodega, to receive the Cattle, Horses, Mules &amp; Sheep, to bring them up to Sutter's fort, called then New Helvetia, by crossing the Sacramento they lost me from about 2000 head about a 100, which drowned in the River, but of most of them we could safe the hides, our Cal. Banknotes at the time.</p><P>I did send a Clerk with some men in charge of these Establishments and left the necessary horses and Cattle there.  The Schooner Sacramento keept up the communication between the Coast and here, and brought me as freight the Lumber, to finish the House in the fort.  I was just building and errecting the fort at the time in Aug. &amp; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:Sept. for protection of the Indians and of the Californians which became bery jealous seeing these fortifications and 12 Canons and a field piece mounted, and two other brass pieces unmounted at the time.</p><NOTE>1844 Fremont's first appearance in California.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>October 18th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>A party of Comodore Wilkes' Exploring Squadron, arrived from Oregon by land, consisting of the Scientific Corps, a few Naval Officers, Marine Soldiers and Mountaineers as Guides under Command of Lieut. Emmons.  I received them so well as I could, and then the Scientific Corps left by Land for San Jose and the Naval Officers &amp; Marines I dispatched them on board of one of my Vessels.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 6th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Capt. Fremont arrived at the fort with Kit Carson, told me that he was an officer of the U. S. and left a party behind in Distress and on foot, the few surviving Mules was packed only with the most necessary.  I received him politely and his Company likewise as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:an old acquaintance.  The next Morning I furnished them with fresh horses, &amp; a Vaquero with a pack Mule loaded with Necessary Supplies for his Men.  Capt Fremont found in my Establishment every thing what he needed, that he could travell without Delay.  He could have not found it so by a Spaniard, perhaps by a great Many and with loosing a great deal of time.  I sold him about 60 Mules &amp; about 25 horses, and fat young Steers or Beef Cattle, all the Mules &amp; horses got Shoed.  On the 23d March, all was ready and on the 24th he left with his party for the U. States.</p><P>As an Officer of the Govt. it was my duty to report to the Govt., that Capt. Fremont arrived.  Genl. Micheltorena dispatched Lieut. Col. Telles (afterwards Gov. of Sinaloa) with Capt., Lieut. and 25 Dragoons, to inquire what Captain Fremonts business was here; but he was en route as they arrive only on the 27th.  From this time on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:Exploring, Hunting &amp; Trapping parties has been started, at the same time Agricultural &amp; Mechanical business was progressing from Year to year, and more Notice has been taken of my establishment.  It became even a fame, and some early Distinguished Travellers like Doctor Sandells, Wasnesensky &amp; others, Captains of Trading Vessels &amp; SuperCargos, &amp; even Californians (after the Indians was subdued) came and paid me a visit, and was astonished to see what for Work of all kinds has been done.  Small Emigrant parties arrived, and brought me some very valuable Men, with one of those was Major Bidwell (he was about 4 Years in my employ).  Major Reading &amp; Major Hensley with 11 other brave Men arrived alone, both of those Gentlemen has been 2 Years in my employ, with these parties excellent Mechanics arrived which was all employed by me, likewise good farmers.  We made imediately Amer. ploughs in my Shops <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:and all kind of work done.  Every year the Russians was bound to furnish me with good iron &amp; Steel &amp; files, Articles which could not be got here, likewise Indian Beeds and the most important of all was 100 lb of fine Rifle &amp; 100 lb of Canon powder, and several 100 lb of Lead (every year).  With these I was carefull like with Gold.</p><NOTE>The Bartleson party which included John Bidwell arrived in November, 1841  Reading and Hensley came in 1843.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<P>From the Hudsons Bay Company I received likewise great supplies, and particularly Powder, lead, and Shot, Beaver Trapps and Clothing (on Credit, to be paid for in Beaver and Otter Skins).  They would not have done this to everyone; but as I has been highly recommended to these gentlemen from England and personally acquainted, they have done so.  Once I received a visit of Mr. Douglas, who was the Commander in Chief of the establishments on the Pacific &amp; the mountains, after Dr. McLaughlin resigned.  With such a supply of Powder, Amunition &amp; Arms, I made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:a bold appearance.  The fort was built in about 4 years of time, as it was very difficult to get the necessary lumber we was sawing by hand Oak timber.  Under Gen'l Micheltorena our Govr. I received the rank and Title Capt. of the Mexican Army.  He found it his Policy to be friend with me, as he was all time threatened with a Revolution of the Californians notwithstanding having about 1000 troupes (Mexicans).  Having the rank as Capt. and Military Comander of the Northern frontieres, I began to drill the Indians, with the assistance of two good Non Commissioned Officers from my Country, which I promoted to Capt &amp; first Lieut't &amp; got their Comissions and from the time I had a self-made Garrison, but the Soldiers to earn for their Uniforms &amp; food etc. had to work when they was not on Duty.  During this time my Stock was increasing; had about then 8000 head of Cattle and 2000 horses and breeding Mares and about 4000 Sheep.  Of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:the Wool we made our own Plankets, as we established under great Difficulties a factory.  Plankets, like nearly all other articles was very scarce and sold to very high prices at the time.</p><P>Emigration continued in small parties, just strong enough to protect themselves travelling through a Country of hostile Indians, all of them was allways hospitably received under my roof and all those who could or would not be employed, could stay with me so long as they liked, and when leaving, I gave them Passports which was everywhere respected.  Was some trouble below, all came immediately to me for protection.  Of the different unfortunate Emigrations which suffered so much in the Snow, it is unnecessary to speak of, as it was published in the papers throughout the States.</p><P>In the fall 1844, I went to Monterey with Major Bidwell and a few armed men (Cavallada &amp; Servants); how it was customary to travell at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:these times, to pay a Visit to Gen'l Micheltorrena.  I has been received with the greatest Civil and Military honors.  One day he gave a great Diner, after Diner all the Troupes were parading, and in the evening a balloon was sent to the higher regions, etc, etc.</p><P>At the time it looked very gloomy; the people of the Country was arming and preparing to make a Revolution, and I got some sure and certain information, of the British Consul and other Gentlemen of my acquaintance which I visited on my way to Monterey.  They did not know that the General and myself were friends, and told and discovered me the whole plan, that in a short time the people of the Country will be ready to blockade the General and his troupes in Monterey, and then take him prisoner and send him and his Soldiers back to Mexico, and make a Gov'r of their own people etc. I was well aware what we could expect should they succeed to do this; they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:would drive us foreigners all very soon out of the Country, how they have done it once, in the winter 1839.  Capt. Vioget has already been engaged by Castro &amp; Alvarado to be ready with his vessel to take the Gen'l and his Soldiers to Mexico.</p><P>I had a confidential Conversation with Genl. Micheltorena who received me with great honors and Distinction in Monterey.  After having him informed of all what is going on in the Country, he took his measures in a Counsel of war in which I has been present.  I received my Orders to raise such a large auxiliary force as I possibly could, and to be ready at his Order, at the same time I received some Cartridges and some small Arms which I had shiped on board the Alert, and took a Passage myself for San Francisco (or then Yerba buena).  If I had travelled by land, Castro would have taken me a Prisoner in San Juan, where he was laying in Ambush for me.  In Yerba buena I remained only a few hours as my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:Schooner was ready to receive me on board, having waited for me at Ya. Ba. I visited the Officers of the Custom house and Castro's Officer, which immediately after I left received an Order to arrest me, but I was under fair Way to Sacramento.</p><NOTE>Yerba Buena.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<P>After my Arrival at the fort, I began to organize a force for the General, regular Drill of the Indian Infanterie took place, the Mounted Rifle Company about 100 Men of all Nations was raised, of which Capt. Gantt was the Commander; as all was under fair way and well organized, and joint with a Detachment of California Cavallry (which deserted from Vallejo) we left the fort with Music and flying Colors on the 1th January 1845, to join the General, and comply with his Orders.  Major Reading was left with a small Garrison of Frenchmen, Canadians and Indians, as Commander of the upper Country.</p><NOTE>Sutter's forces march to the relief of Micheltorena.  See reproduction of roster in Sutter's hand at end of volume.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<P>Castro had his Headquarters then in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:Mission of San Jose.  He did not expect us so soon, as he was just commencing to fortify himself, he ran away with his Garrison, was collecting a stronger force, and want to trouble us on our March, but as he saw that I was on a good Qui Vive for him, he left for Monterey to unite with the forces that was blockading the General and his troops in Monterey, and advanced or runed for the lower Country, to call or force the people there to take Arms against the Government.  On the Salinas River near Monterey the Genl. was encamped, and with our united force, about 600 Men (he left a Garrison in Monterey) we pursued the enemy, and had to pursue him down to Los Angeles.  The first encounter we had with the enemy was at Buenaventura, where we attacked him and drove them out their comfortable quarters.  While at and near Santa Barbara, a great Many of Soldiers of my Division Deserted, over 50 men of the Mounted Rifles, the Detachment of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:Cala.  Cavalry deserted and joined their Countrymen the Rebells, likewise a good number of the Mexican Dragoons.</p><P>Near San Fernando (Mission) the enemy occupied a fine position, and appeared in full strength, joined by a company of American Traders coming from Sonora and another Company of the same consisting of Traders and Trappers and the whole force of the enemy was over thousand Men, well provided with everything, and our force has been no more as about 350 or 375 Men, and during the battle of Cahuenga near San Fernando, the balance of the Mounted Riflemen, and the Artillerie deserted, and myself fell in the hands of the enemy and was taken prisoner and transported to Los Angeles.</p><P>A few days after this, the General, surrounded by the enemy, so that he could get nothing more to eat, capitulated, and after the necessary Documents was signed by both parties, the Genl. was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:allowed to march with Music and flying colours to San Pedro, where some vessels was ready to take him and his troops on board, and after having delivered their arms etc. proceeded up to Monterey to take the remaining Garrison, the family of the General and his privat property, likewise the families of some of the officers.  This was the End of the reign of Genl. Govr. Manl. Micheltorena.</p><P>The new Govt. under Gov. Pio Pico, and General Castro, etc. had the intention to shoot me.  They was of the Oppinion, that I had joined Genl. Micheltorena Voluntarely, but so soon as I could get my Baggage and my papers, I could prove and show by the Orders of my General that I have obeied his Orders, and done my Duty to the legal Government.  And so I was acquitted with all honors, and confirmed in my former Offices as Military Commander of the Northern frontier, and encharged with the Justice, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:the expressed wish that I might be so faithful to the new Govt. as I had been to Genl. Micheltorena.</p><P>While I was in Santa Barbara had a Conversation with Genl. Micheltorena, in reference of the expense, etc., because at the time I had already an Account of about $8000, without counting a cent for my own services, and for my whole rendered services from beginning of my different Offices which I held under Alvarado &amp; the Genl. never they have paid me, even for a Courier, and never furnished me with a Govts. horse.  The General told me that he knew this very well, and as he had no money, he would let me have some land, and even if I should like the sobrante for which I applied when last in Monterey, and which Document was mislaid or destroyed by Dn. Manuel Timeno.  I told him that I would be contented, and as we are in Campaign and might be killed by the enemy I wish that the Document <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:would be writen in the name of my eldest Son and my whole family.</p><NOTE>sobrante: an extension of area to land previously granted.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<P>The Genl. did send for one of his Aid-de-Camp Capt. Castaneda, who was acting Secretary.  This Gentleman wrote the Document (he is alife yet), he has given his testimony before the Land Commission about 2 years ago.  This Document with a many others has been given to John S. Fowler in Care while he was acting as my Agent, and was afterwards destroyed by fire.</p><P>After a return of hardship from San Fernando through Tulare Valley, we turned all out again to our former Occupations, and arrived at the fort on the 1th April 1845.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>September 27th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>A large party of emigrants arrived.  On the 30th dispatched a party of men to assist them.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>October 7th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Another large party arrived (about 60 Wagons).  Visitors and letters from the U. States.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>October 21st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Received Bandas (Proclamations) and Orders of Governor Pio Pico and Genl. Castro.  This was on account rumors was circulating that war had been declared between the U. States and Mexico.  On the 23d a Meeting was held of the Emigrants at the Fort (Thursday).  After the Proclamations had been translated to the Meeting, they adjourned over until Monday next.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>November 11th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>was the Day when the Commissioner from Mexico, Don Andres Castillero arrived at the Fort in Company with Genl. Dn. Jose Castro, Col. Prudon, Ma. Lees, staff and Escort of Castro.  A salut was fired.</p><NOTE>Major J. P. Leese.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<P>After having refused to let them have the fort for $100,000, or for Castros offer for the Mission of San Jose etc, etc, they left the next day.  Salut fired.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 10th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Capt. J. C. Fremont arrived again.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 12th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Delivered him 14 mules.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 13th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Left for the South to meet Capt. J. Walker.  On the same day, two Blacksmiths of Fremonts arrived, to take charge of one of the Blacksmith Shops, to make Horse Shoes Nails etc.</p><NOTE>Jos. Reddeford Walker</NOTE>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 23d.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Indians was driving of Stock, some of it we got back again.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 25th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Arrived Capt. W. L. Hastings direct from the U. States crossing the Mountains with 11 men, among them was Doctor Semple, if they had arrived one day later they would have been cut of by the immense quantity of Snow.  I keept the whole party over winter, some of them I employed.</p><NOTE>1846</NOTE>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 14th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Capt. Leidesdorff U. S. vice Consul &amp; Capt. Hinckley, Capt. of the Port of San francisco, arrived on a friendly Visit.  On the 15th January Capt Fremont returned, not beeing able to find Capt. Walker.  As we were two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 17th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Supplied Fremonts Camp with Provisions.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 19th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Capt. Fremont with 8 of his men took passage on board my Schooner for Yerba buena.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 30th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Received a Visit of Major Snyder and Mr. Sublette, they brought the News of War being declared between the U. S. &amp; England.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 19th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>News was sent to me that no Mexican Troopes has arrived, which were daily expected in the Country, and that probably California is about to be delivered up to the U. S.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 14th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Doctor Marsh sent an Express <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 21st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Capt. Fremont returned and camped on the other side of the Amer. Fork, and looking out for the Californiens, and in a few days left for the upper Sacramento, and for Oregon.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 28th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Arrived Lieut. A. Gillespie of the U. States Marine Corps, who had secret Dispatches for Fremont, and wanted to overtake him on his route to Oregon.  I furnished him with Animals, he went up to Peter Lassens with my Guide.  At P. Lassens he hired Men and bought Animals to overtake Fremont.  After a sharp riding he succeeded to overtake him, and returned  with him to the Sacramento Valley.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 25th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Saml. Neal passed on a secret errant for Monterey.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 30th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Lieut. A. Gillespie arrived from the Upper Sacramento Valley, and left on the 1st June on board my Schooner for Yerba buena.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 3d.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>I left in Company of Major Reading, and most all of the Men in my employ, for a Campaign with the Mukelemney Indians, which has been engaged by Castro and his Officers to revolutionize all the Indians against me, to Kill all the foreigners, burn their houses and Wheat fields etc.  These Mukelemney Indians had great promesses and some of them were finely dressed and equiped, and those came apparently on a friendly visit to the fort and Vicinity and had long Conversation with the influential Men of the Indians, and one Night a Number of them entered in my Potrero (a kind of closed pasture) and was Ketching horses to drive the whole Cavallada away with them.  The Sentinel at the fort <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:heart the distant Noise of these Horses, and gave due notice, &amp; imediately I left with about 6 well armed Men and attacked them, but they could make their escape in the Woods (where Sac. City stands now) and so I left a guard with the horses.  As we had to cross the Mukelemney River on rafts, one of those rafts capsized with 10 Rifles, and 6 prs of Pistols, a good supply of Amunition, and the Clothing of about 24 Men, and Major Reading &amp; another Man nearly drowned.</p><P>Some Men remained on the dry places as they had no Clothing nor Arms, the remaining Arms and amunitions has been divided among the whole, and so we marched the whole Night on the Calaveras, and could not find the enemy.  In the Morning by Sunrise we took a little rest, and soon dispatched a party to discover and reconnoitre the enemy.  A Dog came to our Camp which was a well known dog of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 8th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Arrived Lieut. Francisco Arce with 8 Soldiers &amp; Govt. horses from Sonoma for Genl. Castro.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 9th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Departed Lieutenant Arce for Monterey.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 10th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>A party of Americans under Command of E. Merritt, took all the horses from Arce at Murphey's.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 13th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>The Portsmouths Launch arrived under Command of Lieut. Hunter, in Company with Lieut. Gillespie, Purser Waldron &amp; Doctor Duvall.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 14th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Lieut. Gillespie &amp; Hensley left for Fremont's Camp near Hock farm.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 16th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Merritt &amp; Kitt Carson arrived with News of Sonoma beeing occupied by the Americans, and the same evening arrived as prissoners Genl. Vallejo, Don Salvador Vallejo, Lt. Col. Prudon &amp; M. Leese, and given under my charge and Care, I have treated them with kindness and so good as I could, which was reported to Fremont, and he then told me that prissoners ought not to be treated so, then I told <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 17th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Departed the Portsmouth Launch for Yerba buena.  Capt. Fremont moved Camp up to the Amer. fork, a good many people joining Fremonts Camp.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 18th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Arrived Express from Sonoma with letter from Capt. Montgomery.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 19th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Arrived Capt. Fremont with about 20 Men from Camp. Jose Noriega was detained prissoner.  Fremonts Blacksmiths were busily engaged.  Vicente Peralta, who was up in the Valley on a visit, was detained prissoner.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 21st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Capt. Fremont &amp; Camp deposited the Packs and then camped across Amer. fork.  Major Reading and my Trappers joined the Camp, and left for Sonoma as a strong Detachment of Californians crossed the Estrecho de Carqinas at Benicia.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 26th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Lieut. Revere &amp; Dr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 28th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Arrived Lieut. Bartlett of the Portsmouth and organized a Garrison.</p></DIV><DIV><HEAD>July 10th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>[Fremont] Arrived or returned from Sonoma with his Company.  On this trip or Campaign to Sonoma some cruel actions has been done on both sides.</p><P>Capt. Montgomery did send an Amer. flag by Lieut. Revere then in Command of Sonoma, and some dispatches to Fremont, I received the Order to hist the flag by Sunrise from Lt. Revere.  Long time before daybreak, I got ready with loading the Canons and when it was day the roaring of the Canons got the people all stirring.  Some them made long faces, as they thought if the Bear flag would remain there would be a better chance to rob and plunder.  Capt. Fremont received Orders <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:to proceed to Monterey with his forces, Capt. Montgomery provided for the upper Country, established Garrisons in all important places, Yerba buena, Sonoma, San Jose, and fort Sacramento.  Lieut. Missroon came to organize our Garrison better and more Numbers of white Men and Indians of my former Soldiers, and gave me the Command of this Fort.  The Indians have not yet received their pay yet for their services, only each one a shirt and a pre. of pants, &amp; abt. 12 men got Coats.  So went the War on in California.  Capt. Fremont was nearly all time engaged in the lower Country and made himself Governor, until Genl. Kearny arrived, when an other Revolution took place.  And Fremont for disobeying Orders was made prissoner by Genl. Kearny, who took him afterwards with him to the U. States by Land across theMountains.</p><NOTE>Sutter was second in command.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<P>After the War I was anxious that Business should go on like before, and on the 28th May, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:1847, Marshall &amp; Gingery, two Millwrights, I employed to survey the large Millraise for the Flour Mill at Brighton.</p><NOTE>pre: French abbreviation of une paire: pair.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 24th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Lieut't Anderson arrived with a Detachment of Stevenson's Regiment of N. Y. Volunteers for a Garrison, and to relieve my Indian Soldiers from their Service.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 31st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Mr. Marshall commenced the great work of the large Millraise, with ploughs and scrapers.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 13th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>A visit of Genl Kearny and his Staff and a few other Gentlemen.  A salut was fired and the Garrison was parading.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 14th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>A diner given to Gen'l Kearny and Staff.  Capt. Fremont a prisoner of Gen'l Kearny.  Walla Walla Indian Chiefs and people visited Fremont and wanted their pay for Services rendered in the Campaign when they was with Fremonts Battaillon, he then ordered one of his officers to pay them with Govt's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 16th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Gen'l Kearny, Staff &amp; Escort etc. left for the U. States across the Mountains.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 22nd.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>The Walla Walla Indians have done a great deal of Depredations on their return march to Oregon, stole horses of mine and other people, stole from a many Indian tribes and maltreated them.  They are a very bad Tribe of Indians and very warlike.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 20th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Got all the necessary timber for the frame of the millbuilding.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 21st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Left with Marshall and an Indian Chief in search for a Mill site in the Mountains.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 17th, 18th &amp; 19th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Went on a visit to Comodore Stockton in his Camp on Bear creek.  The Comodore left with a Strong party for the U. States across the Mountains.  Made a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>August 2d.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Major Cloud, paymaster &amp; Capt Folsom quartermaster arrived; the former paid off the Garrison at the fort.  On the 4th, these two Gentlemen left on Horseback.  I accompanied them, and we was only but only 1/2 mile from the fort Major Cloud fell from his horse senseless and died in the evening.  The Surgeon of the Garrison &amp; my own Doctor have done what could be done to safe him.  On the 6th, Major Cloud was burried with military honors.  Capt. Folsom commanded the Troops, as Lieut't Anderson was sick.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>August 25th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Capt Hart of the Mormon Battaillon arrived, with a good many of his Men on their Way to great Salt Lake.  They had Orders <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>August 28th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Marshall moved, with P. Wimmer family and the working hands to Columa, and began to work briskly on the sawmill.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>September 10th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Mr. Sam'l Brannan returned from the great Salt Lake, and announced a large Emigration by land.  On the 19th the Garrison was removed, Lieut't Per Lee took her down to San francisco.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>September 21st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Employed more Carpenters to assist Brouett on the Grist Mill.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>October 3d.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>A great many Emigrants arrived, and so it continued through the whole of the month.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>October 12th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>A small Store was established by S'l Brannan &amp; Smith in one of the houses near the fort.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>November 1st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Getting with a great deal of trouble and with breaking wagons the four Runs of Millstones, to the Mill Site (Brighton) from the Mountains.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 22d.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Received about 2000 fruit trees with great expenses from Fort Ross, Napa Valley and other places, which was given in Care of men who called themselves Gardeners, and nearly all of the trees was neglected by them and died.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 28th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Marshall arrived in the evening, it was raining very heavy, but he told me he came on important business.  After we was alone in a private Room he showed me the first Specimens of Gold, that is he was not certain if it was Gold or not, but he thought it might be; immediately I made the proof and found that it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:Gold.  I told him even that most of all is 23 Carat Gold; he wished that I should come up with him immediately, but I told him that I have to give first my orders to the people in all my factories and shops.</p><NOTE>Marshall picked up the first flakes in the mill race at the Coloma sawmill Jan. 24, 1848.</NOTE>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 1st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Left for the Sawmill attended by a Baquero (Olimpio).  Was absent 2d, 3d, 4th, &amp; 5th.  I examined myself everything and picked up a few Specimens of Gold myself in the tail race of the Sawmill; this Gold and others which Marshall and some of the other laborers gave to me (it was found while in my employ and Wages) I told them that I would a Ring got made of it soon as a Goldsmith would be here.  I had a talk with my employed people all at the Sawmill.  I told them that as they do know now that this Metal is Gold, I wished that they would do me the great favor and keep it secret only 6 weeks, because my large Flour Mill at Brighton would have been in Operation in such a time, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 7th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>The first party of Mormons, employed by me left for washing and digging Gold and very soon all followed, and left me only the sick and the lame behind.  And at this time I could say that every body left me from the Clerk to the Cook.  What for great Damages I had to suffer in my tannery which was just doing a profitable and extensive business, and the Vatts was left filled and a quantity of half finished leather was spoiled, likewise a large quantity of raw hides collected by the farmers and of my own killing.  The same thing was in every branch of business which I carried on at the time.  I began to harvest my wheat, while others was digging and washing Gold, but even the Indians could not be keeped longer at Work.  They was impatient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 21st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Threatened by a band of Robbers, from the Red Woods at San Francisquito near Santa Clara.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 2d.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Mr. Humphrey a regular Miner arrived, and left for Columa with Wimmer &amp; Marshall.  Entered with them in Mining, furnished Indians, teams and provisions to this Company, and as I was loosing instead making something, I left this Company as a Partner.  Some of the Neighbors, while the Mormons left, became likewise the Goldfever and went to the Mountains prospecting and soon afterwards moved up to digg and wash Gold, and some of them with great success.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 16th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Mr. Gray (from Virginia) who purchased Silver Mines in the San Jose Valley for a Compy and was interested himself.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 18th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>More curious people arrived, bound for the Mountains.  I left for Columa, in Company with Major P. B. Reading and Mr. Kembel (Editor of the Alta-California) we were absent 4 Days.  We was prospecting and found Silver and iron ore in abundance.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 28th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>A great many people more went up to the Mountains.  This day the Saw mill was in Operation and the first Lumber has been sawed in the whole upper Country.</p><NOTE>Kemble, later editor of the <HI REND="italics">alta</HI>
086.sgm:, was then editing the <HI REND="italics">California Star</HI>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 1st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Saml Brannan was building a store at Natoma, Mormon Islands, and have done a very large and heavy business.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 15th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Paid off all the Mormons which has been employed by me, in building these Mills <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 19th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>The great Rush from San Francisco arrived at the fort, all my friends and acquaintances filled up the houses and the whole fort, I had only a little Indian boy, to make them roasted Ripps etc. as my Cooks left me like every body else.  The Merchants, Doctors, Lawyers, Sea Captains, Merchants etc. all came up and did not know what to do, all was in a Confusion, all left their wives and families in San francisco, and those which had none locked their Doors, abandoned their houses, offered them for sale cheap, a few hundred Dollars House &amp; Lot (Lots which are worth now $100,000 and more), some of these men were just like greazy.  Some of the Merchants has been the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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086.sgm:purdentest of the Whole, visited the Mines and returned immediately and began to do a very profitable business, and soon Vessels came from every where with all Kind of Merchandise, the whole old thrash which was laying for Years unsold, on the Coasts of South &amp; Central America, Mexico Sandwich Islands etc.  All found a good Market here.</p><P>Mr. Brannan was erecting a very large Warehouse, and have done an immense business, connected with Howard &amp; Green; S. Francisco.</p></DIV>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 21st.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>Saml Kyburg errected or established the first Hotel in the fort in the larger building, and made a great deal of Money.  A great Many traders deposited a great deal of goods in my Store (an Indian was the Key Keeper and performed very well).  Afterwards every little Shanty became a Warehouse and Store; the fort was then a veritable Bazaar.  As white people would not be employed at the Time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 25th.</HEAD>
086.sgm:<P>The travelling to the Mines was increasing from day to day, and no more Notice was taken, as the people arrived from South America, Mexico, Sandwich Islands, Oregon, etc.  All the Ships Crews, and Soldiers deserted.  In the beginning of July, Col. Mason our Military Governor, with Capt. Sherman (Secretary of State) Capt. Folsom, Quartermstr, and an Escort, of which some deserted, and some other Gentlemen, travelled in Company with the Governor.</p><P>As we wanted to celebrate the 4th of July we invited the Governor and his suite to remain with us, and be accepted.  Kyburg gave us a good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:Diner, every thing was pretty well arranged.  Pickett was  the Orator.  It was well done enough for such a new Country and in such  an excitement and Confusion.  And from this time on you know how every thing was going on here.  One thing is certain that the people looked on my property as their own, and in the Winter of 1849 to 1850, a great Number of horses has been stolen from me, whole Manadas of Mares driven away and taken to Oregon etc.  Nearly my whole Stock of Cattle has been Killed, several thousands, and left me a very small Quantity.  The same has been done with my large stock of Hogs, which was running like ever under nobodies care and so it was easy to steal them.  I had not an Idea that people could be so mean, and that they would do a Wholesale business in Stealing.</p><P>On the upper Sacramento, that is, from the Buttes downward to the point or Mouth of feather River, there was most all of my Stock running <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:and during the Overflow the Cattle was in a many bands on high spots like Islands.  There was a fine chance to approach them in small Boats and shoot them.  This business has been very successfully done by one party of 5 Men (partners) which had besides hired people, and Boats Crews, which transported the beef to the Market at Sacramento City and furnished that City with my own beef, and because these Men was nearly alone, on account of the Overflow, and Monopolized the Market.</p><P>In the Spring of 1850, these 5 men divided their Spoil of $60,000 clear profits made of Cattle.  All of them left for the Atlantic State; one of them returned again in the Winter from 1850 to 51, hired a new band of Robers to follow the same business and kill of the balance or the few that was left.  My Baqueros found out this Nest of thiefs in the their Camp butchering just some heads of my Cattle.   On their return they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:informed me what they have seen.  In the neighborhood of the same Camp they saw some more cows shot dead, which the Rascal then butchered.  Immediately I did send to Nicolaus for the Sheriff (Jas. Hopkins) as then at the time we had laws in force?!?  After all was stolen and destroyed the Sheriff arrived at Hock farm.  I furnished him a Posse of my employed Men.  They proceeded over on the Sacramento to where the thiefs were encamped.  As the Sheriff wanted to arrest them they just jumped in their Boats and off they went, the Sheriff threatened them to fire at them, but that was all, and laughing they went at large.</p><P>One day my Son was riding after Stock a few miles below Hock farm.  He found a Man (his name was Owens) butchering one of our finest milch Cows (of Durham stock of Chile, which cost $300.)  He told the Man that he could not take the Meat, that he would go home and get people, and so he has done, and he got people and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:a Wagon and returned to the Spot but Owens found it good to clear out.  Two brothers of this Man was respectable Merchants in Lexington Mo. and afterwards in Westport well acquainted with me.  He came one day in my house and brought me their compliments, I received him well, and afterwards turned out to be a thief.  How many of this kind came to California which loosed their little honor by crossing the Istmus or the plains.  I had nothing at all to do with speculations, but stuck by the plough, but by paying such high Wages, and particularly under Kyburg's management, I have done this business with a heavy loss as the produce had no more the Value like before, and from the time on Kyburg left I curtailed my business considerable, and so far that I do all at present with my family and a few Indian Servants.  I did not speculate, only occupied my land, in the hope that it would be before long decided and in my favor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:by the U. S. Land Commission; but now already 3 years &amp; two months have elapsed, and I am waiting now very anxiously for the Decission, which will revive or bring me to the untimely grave.</p><P>All the other Circumstances you know all yourself, perhaps I have repeated many things which I wrote in the 3 first sheets, because I had them not to see what I wrote, and as it is now several months I must have forgotten.  Well it is only a kind of memorandum, and not a History at all, Only to remember you on the different periods when such and such things happened.</p><P>I need not mention again, that all the Visitors has allways been hospitably received and treated.  That all the sick and wounded found allways Medical Assistance, Gratis, as I had nearly all the time a Physician in my employ.  The Assistance to the Emigrants, that is all well known.  I dont need to write anything about this.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<P>I think now from all this you can form some facts, and that you can mention how thousands and thousands made their fortunes, from this Gold Discovery produced through my industry and energy, (some wise merchants and others in San francisco called the building of this Sawmill, another of Sutter's folly) and this folly saved not only the Mercantile World from Bankruptcy, but even our General Gov't. but for me it has turned out a folly, then without having discovered the Gold, I would have become the richest wealthiest man on the Pacific Shore.</p><illus entity="a-086-0003" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
086.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
086.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
086.sgm:<illus entity="a086-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S FORT, SACRAMENTO, CALIFORNIA 1847.</p></CAPTION>
087.sgm:<!DOCTYPE tei2 public "-//Library of Congress - Historical Collections (American Memory)//DTD ammem.dtd//EN" [<!entity % images system "087.ent"> %images;]><TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-087</TITLE>
087.sgm:<TITLE>A trip to the gold mines of California in 1848. By John A. Swan. Edited by John A. Hussey: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
087.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
087.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
087.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
087.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
087.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>61-1744</LCCN>
087.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
087.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 489608</COPYRIGHT>
087.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:<illus entity="a087-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE BOOK CLUB OF CALIFORNIA:  <HI REND="italics">SAN FRANCISCO 1960</HI>
087.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:<P>A Trip to the Gold Mines</p><P>of California in 1848</p><P>BY</p><P>JOHN A. SWAN</p><P><HI REND="italics">Edited, with Introduction and Notes</HI>
087.sgm:</p><P>By JOHN A. HUSSEY</p><illus entity="a087-0002" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
087.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Copyright, 1960, by The Book Club of California</HI>
087.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Contents</HEAD>
087.sgm:<P>INTRODUCTION by John A. Hussey<HSEP>PAGE ix<LB>A TRIP TO THE GOLD MINES OF CALIFORNIA IN 1848<HSEP>1<LB>I. TO THE DIGGINGS ON HORSEBACK<HSEP>3<LB>II. LOG CABIN RAVINE AND DRY CREEK<HSEP>13<LB>III. A LONG JOURNEY HOME<HSEP>24<LB>IV. BACKWARD GLANCES<HSEP>32<LB>NOTES<HSEP>37</p></DIV>
087.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>TITLE PAGE</HEAD>
087.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">illustration reproduced from an engraving in William M. Thayer's "Marvels of Mining," Boston, 1887</HI>
087.sgm:.</p><P>FRONTISPIECE <HI REND="italics">from the original photograph of John A. Swan which hangs in the entrance of California's First Theatre, Monterey.  Courtesy, Division of Beaches and Parks, State of California</HI>
087.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:<P>A TRIP TO THE GOLD MINES OF CALIFORNIA IN 1848</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:<illus entity="a087-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>John A. Swan</p></CAPTION>
087.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Introduction</HEAD>
087.sgm:<P>THE COURSE OF HISTORY MAY BE LIKENED TO THAT OF A RIVER which meanders back and forth over a broad, level valley as it flows relentlessly toward its unseen goal over the horizon.  We know that civilizations rise and fall, that nations are born and then die, and that periods of repression follow eras of license; but usually it is difficult for us to see when the changes begin, to know what forces deflect the course of events.</p><P>But every so often a happening occurs which is immediately recognized as important by almost everyone.  Such events are history's chutes and crevasses, which suddenly channel the flow of human affairs in new directions.  One such occurrence was James Marshall's discovery of gold at Sutter's sawmill on the American River on January 24, 1848.</p><P>John Sutter was not a brilliant man, but even he could comprehend that things would never again be the same in the great interior valley of California.  He tried to keep the news secret until he could get some much-needed lumber from his mill and make other adjustments in his affairs; but, like spilled quicksilver, the word of gold scattered out in all directions.</p><P>Strangely enough, a rush to the mines did not develop immediately.  On February 10, Sutter, unable to contain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:himself, boasted to General M. G. Vallejo of Sonoma that an "extraordinarily rich" gold mine had been found.  During that same month he sent Charles Bennett to Monterey to carry to Governor Mason a request for a land claim at Coloma; and Bennett showed samples of gold not only in the territorial capital but in Benicia and San Francisco as well.</p><P>Yet it was not until March that Sutter's workmen began to leave him for the diggings.  During that month and the next a few gold seekers from the coast, like the former Georgia miner, Isaac Humphrey, made their way into the Sierra foothills; and Sutter's rancher neighbors in the Sacramento Valley began to prospect for placers.</p><P>Scepticism concerning the richness of the gold fields was not dissipated in San Francisco until about the middle of May, when Sam Brannan paraded the streets holding aloft a bottle of dust and shouting, "Gold! Gold! Gold from the American River."  The mining fever broke out immediately, and within four weeks the town was virtually deserted.  The contagion reached Monterey later in the same month but did not really take hold until June.  It spread to Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and through the rest of Southern California during July and August.</p><P>Governor Mason estimated that by July 4,000 persons, including Indians, were working in the mines.  This number was a respectable percentage of California's total non-Indian population of about 14,000.  By the end of the first mining season, in October or November, it is probable that of this mid-year total, 1,300 Spanish-speaking native Californians and 4,000 Americans and Europeans had visited the placers.</p><P>At first, these California residents had the gold fields largely to themselves.  Nearly all of them were without experience in mining, and they began by picking the precious metal from crevices and stream beds with knives and spoons.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:Gradually, however, they learned from the few old-time miners, like Humphrey, to use the more efficient pan and rocker.</p><P>During the first few weeks of the rush, activity centered around Coloma and the South Fork of the American River; but prospectors quickly moved out both north and south, and discovery followed discovery.  One observer commented in August that the miners were running over the country and picking gold out of the earth here and there "just as a thousand hogs let loose in a forest would root up ground nuts."  When the digging slackened with the coming of winter, the mining region ranged along the Sierra foothills from the Feather River on the north to the Tuolumne on the south, with a detached outpost in the Shasta region at the head of the Sacramento Valley.</p><P>The Californians did not long keep their monopoly of the placers.  Word of the gold discovery reached Honolulu in June, and during the next month shiploads of gold seekers began leaving the islands for the new El Dorado.  Oregon heard the news by early August, and before the end of the year 1,500 to 2,000 settlers from the Willamette Valley had headed south.  Mexico, Peru, and Chile made substantial contributions to California's population during the last months of 1848.  At the end of the mining season there were perhaps 10,000 men digging in the foothills.</p><P>The great historian, Hubert Howe Bancroft, only echoed the words of many old-time Californians when he said that "the men of '48 were of another class from the men of '49" and that the year 1848 was "different from every other California year before or since."  There was a kind of nai&die;ve wonderment, a frenzied prodigality and restlessness, and, above all, a <HI REND="italics">camaraderie</HI>
087.sgm: among the forty-eighters which became watered down under the impact of the tens of thousands of Argonauts who swarmed into the gold fields during 1849.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:<P>Everyone who has written about the days of '48 has noted the relative absence of crime in the diggings during that first year of the rush.  Claims were indicated merely by leaving a pick or a shovel in an excavation.  Claim-jumping, though not unknown, was rare.  Bags of gold dust were left in tents and unlocked cabins; and successful miners with their heavy pokes trudged homeward unmolested on the lonely trails to the coast.  Even horses, in much demand for moving from one prospect to another, were seldom stolen.</p><P>Another characteristic of the forty-eighters--and perhaps responsible for the lack of crime--was the fact that most of them knew each other, by personal acquaintance or by reputation.  Particularly during the first months of the rush, they were largely "neighbors and friends, who would not wrong each other in the mountains more than in the valley."</p><P>When the hardy pioneers, for generations schooled in the barter economy of the frontier, and the sailors and soldiers, used to working for a mere pittance in cash, suddenly found their hands literally full of gold, most of them quickly lost all sense of proportion.  The supply of wealth seemed endless, and many felt as did Sergeant James H. Carson of the 3rd U.S. Artillery when all at once, he later recalled, "the Rothschilds, Girard and Astors appeared to me but poor people."  Prices of food and equipment in the mines skyrocketed to fantastic figures, quite out of keeping with the state of supply and the costs of transportation.  A number squandered their new-found wealth and never regained their fortunes; others drank themselves into early graves.  Forty-eight was one long, wild, happy spree for many, a time of steady, solid accumulation of wealth for others.  Never again was gold so easy to find, and never again was the finding of it so enjoyable.</p><P>The story of the golden days of '48 is known in broad outline, and some phases of it have been chronicled in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:considerable detail.  This state of knowledge is somewhat surprising in view of the fact that most of the miners were too busy scratching in crevices with knife blades and prospecting for new strikes to keep written records of their wanderings.  And, as a matter of fact, much information on the opening of new diggings and the development of improved mining techniques was forever lost.</p><P>Nevertheless, a number of forty-eighters wrote accounts of their adventures which, sooner or later, appeared in print.  One of the first, and certainly one of the most informative, was Colonel Richard B. Mason's official report of his July trip to inspect the diggings.  E. Gould Buffum's lively and valuable <HI REND="italics">Six Months in the Gold Mines</HI>
087.sgm: was published in 1850.  During that same year William R. Ryan's <HI REND="italics">Personal Adventures</HI>
087.sgm: --which tells more about Ryan than the gold fields--was issued in London; and Walter Colton's <HI REND="italics">Three Years in California</HI>
087.sgm: was printed in New York.  Excerpts from the dispatches of the French consul in California, Jacques Antoine Moerenhout, were published in Paris during 1850; but the entire text of his remarkably fine account of a trip to the mines during the summer of 1848 was not made available in print until 1934 and 1935.</p><P>James H. Carson's indispensable <HI REND="italics">Recollections of the California Mines</HI>
087.sgm: came out in 1852.  The memoirs of Peter H. Burnett and William T. Sherman reached print during the 1880's.  A very brief glimpse of the mines late in 1848 is provided by the journal of Lieutenant John M. Hollingsworth, printed in 1923; and one of the most authentic and informative of all the 1848 accounts, the diary of Chester S. Lyman, was made available in book form in 1924.  The recollections of Heinrich Lienhard throw light on several phases of life in the mines not covered by other accounts.  His narrative was completed about 1870 and was published in altered form in 1898, but not until 1941 was there a satisfactory edition.  A few pages of Agusti&acute;n Janssens's <HI REND="italics">Life</HI>
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087.sgm:<HI REND="italics">and Adventures</HI>
087.sgm: deal with his 1848 experiences on the Stanislaus.  Although dictated during the 1870's, this account found a publisher only in 1953.  Additional statements, some of them based on interviews with pioneers of '48, are found in county histories, in scattered newspaper articles, and in a number of general histories and works on mining.<ANCHOR ID="nI-1">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-1">In this brief <HI REND="italics">resume&acute;</HI>
087.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the keen interest in the literature of the gold rush which has existed ever since Marshall's discovery, several first-hand descriptions of life in the mines during 1848 have for decades remained unpublished, known to scholars but out of easy reach for the armchair historian and the general reader.  Certainly one of the most important of these manuscript accounts, and perhaps the most entertaining, is "A Trip to the Gold Mines of California in 1848," by John A. Swan.</p><P>This narrative was written in 1870, evidently for its author's own amusement and, we can believe, for the record, because Swan possessed a keen sense of history.<ANCHOR ID="nI-2">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: As far as is known, he did nothing with his manuscript until 1872, when the net thrown out by Hubert Howe Bancroft to drag in source materials for his magnificently conceived history of western North America caught John Swan in its meshes.  Perhaps it was one of the circulars which Bancroft broadcast to the pioneer settlers of California asking them to set down their early experiences, no matter how "trifling," which first aroused Swan's interest in the project of the San Francisco historian.  It is known that he received a circular and answered some of its questions.  At any rate, Swan entered into a correspondence with Bancroft; and on April 27, 1872, the historian sent him some requested information on the Society of California Pioneers.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-2">When sending the manuscript to Hubert Howe Bancroft in 1872, Swan said that the account was written "some 3 or 4 years ago."  Swan to Bancroft, Jolon, June 24, 1872, MS, in the Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley.  However, internal evidence in the narrative itself indicates that it was written in 1870, since at one point Swan refers to the death of John Gilroy "last year."  Gilroy died in 1869.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>When Swan received this letter he was living at Jolon, in southern Monterey County.  He did not reply at once, since, as he later told Bancroft, someone had broken into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:his cabin "and had taken all my writing paper, pens, pocketbook, pencils, gold scales, scizzors, needles, thread, letters, powder Flask, percussion caps, and left me not so much as a scrap of paper or a piece of lead pencil to write with."  But during May he visited Monterey, where he had property, and attempted to stir up enthusiasm for Bancroft's project among the "old boys," as the pioneer settlers liked to call themselves.</p><P>He did not meet with much success, he told the historian, because the inhabitants of Monterey were largely "easy going people and think more of taking the world easy and looking after their life stock interests and to the things of the present than to take the trouble of putting their pens to paper to chronicle things of the past; so much for the old people, while the young ones are very apt to look at persons who do talk of past transactions in California as . . . sort of half lunatics."  But while there he found his gold rush manuscript in the desk in his Monterey home.  He brought the account back to Jolon with him and then shipped it off to Bancroft in San Francisco.</p><P>"I send it with this letter for you to look over and see if there is anything of any service in it for your work," he wrote to the historian on June 24, 1872.  "If so, you can take a copy or what extracts you wish and send me the original back, for although it is but a rough piece of writing it is facts not fiction, and though it may have no attraction for a stranger it has for me, as it brings to my mind people whom I was acquainted with years ago but who are now dead."</p><P>Bancroft recognized the merit of the work and had his assistants--the manuscript is in two handwritings--make a copy, which is to this day preserved in the Bancroft Library at the University of California.  It is presumed that the historian returned the original document to its author; and it is hoped that he sent along with it a copy of a book <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:entitled <HI REND="italics">Nights in the Guard House</HI>
087.sgm:, a work which Swan had read at sea during his youth and which, he told the historian when forwarding his manuscript, he "would like to look over again."<ANCHOR ID="nI-3">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-3">Swan to Bancroft, Jolon, June 24, 1872, MS, in Bancroft Library.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>Much of the value--and a good deal of the charm--of Swan's narrative is due to his down-to-earth attitude toward the scenes and events he described.  He was no detached observer, standing aloof from the rough work of the diggings.  His viewpoint was decidedly that of a pick-and-shovel miner.  As a former common seaman he was, to use his own words, "at home" with the runaway sailors and soldiers with whom he lived near the present Placerville and on Dry Creek, and thus he knew from intimate association as well as from his own experience the wondrous excitement which gripped the first miners.</p><P>Swan did not expand his account with generalizations about the extent of the placers and the number of miners in the diggings.  Rather, he confined his story quite rigidly to his own experiences and observations.  And the subjects he described were those which interested the average gold seeker--the cost of tools, the care of horses, the price of gold dust, the difficulties of travel, songs by the campfire, and the availability--or the unavailability--of liquor.  The reader of his narrative feels instinctively, "This is how it was."</p><P>Bancroft relied quite heavily on "A Trip to the Gold Mines" when preparing his history of the first year in the California diggings.  A good deal of information from Swan's account is found digested in Bancroft's footnotes.<ANCHOR ID="nI-4">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: Swan himself later included incidents from the narrative in articles he wrote for Monterey County and San Jose newspapers.  But, as far as the present editor could determine from a somewhat limited search, the complete manuscript has never before appeared in print.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-4">See Hubert Howe Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
087.sgm:<P>The author of "A Trip to the Gold Mines" was in many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:ways a remarkable man.  His true niche in history, perhaps, is as a typical representative of that unsung class of California pioneers which was made up of the lowly on the economic scale--the carpenters, the sawyers, the soapmakers, the trappers, and the other laborers and craftsmen who gave the territory most of what little it had in the way of industry during the days before the American conquest.  We hear a good deal of the more prominent foreign merchants and landowners, such as Thomas O. Larkin, Abel Stearns, and William E. P. Hartnell, but who ever heard of Jack Swan, baker of pies and boardinghouse keeper; or William McGlone, who failed in his attempt to make beer but who forever after was called "Billy the Brewer"; or John Milligan, the wild Irishman who taught weaving to the Indians of San Juan Bautista?</p><P>Yet, the men of this class contributed much to the building of California, and they were quite as proud of being pioneers as were their fellow early settlers who became more prosperous.  In later life Swan became a sort of self-appointed champion of the poor and the forgotten among the "old boys," and he wrote sketches of a number of them for the newspapers because he believed they "deserved remembrance."<ANCHOR ID="nI-5">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: He seldom failed to reproach--in public print if possible--any of the well-to-do among the fraternity of old pioneers who slighted or showed evidence of having forgotten their poorer friends.  In March, 1878, he met one of his earliest California acquaintances, Josiah Belden, a pioneer of 1841, at the Palace Hotel in San Francisco.  Belden, by that time wealthy from real estate investments, did not recognize the aging Swan.  He "told me he was losing his memory," Swan wrote a few weeks later to the editor of the San Jose <HI REND="italics">Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm:, "and I thought he was.  Living in palaces don't generally improve people's memories, and I suppose the Palace Hotel in San Francisco is no exception to the rule."<ANCHOR ID="nI-6">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-5">"How It Was Named," in <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-6">"Milton Little, Pioneer of 1843," in <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
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087.sgm:<P>Swan's concern for the common man extended to the Spanish-speaking native Californians, whom he regarded with an affection and respect which never descended to maudlin sentimentality.  He once took the Reverend Walter Colton to task for not editing his journal more carefully before publishing it.  "He should have expunged the word banditti from it, as applied to the native population," Swan wrote in one of his newspaper sketches.<ANCHOR ID="nI-7">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-7">"Letter from Pioneer Swan," in <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm:<P>From the standpoint of posterity, Swan's most noteworthy characteristic was his feeling for the importance of history.  It was his firm conviction that his contemporaries did not have much interest in the events of pioneer times on the Pacific Coast.  "I believe the average Californian of the present day takes more interest in the genealogies of horses, cattle, sheep, hogs, and goats than they do in that nobler animal man," he wrote to the editor of the San Jose <HI REND="italics">Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm: in 1878; but he foresaw the time when every scrap of information concerning early times would be treasured.<ANCHOR ID="nI-8">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: For this reason he had a passion for historical accuracy, even in very minor matters.  "In speaking or writing of early days in California, people cannot be too particular about dates," he admonished one luckless editor whose paper had carried an article containing a slight error in reference to the day upon which California's first newspaper had been issued.<ANCHOR ID="nI-9">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-8"><HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-9"><HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm:<P>In his own writing, he took care to verify facts whenever possible.  During the 1870's, after William T. Sherman had risen to the distinguished position of commander-in-chief of the United States Army, Swan did not hesitate to write to him to obtain the date of a trifling incident which occurred while Sherman was a young lieutenant at Monterey in 1847.<ANCHOR ID="nI-10">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-10"><HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm:<P>This interest in history and this sensitivity to the requirements of good historical writing are not what one would expect from a person of Swan's background.  Beyond the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:fact that his parents were of Scotch descent, little is known about his family.  His father, George Swan, was a native of Edinburgh.  His mother was born in Canada but had been sent as a child to live with her grandparents in the Scottish capital.  The two were married in Edinburgh, but shortly after the birth of their first child, George, they moved to London.  There, on November 23, 1817, John Alfred Swan, their second child, was born.  Other children followed in rapid succession until there were eleven in all, eight boys and three girls.</p><P>In later years John Swan told nothing about his father's business or about the family's economic circumstances, but the latter may be judged from the fact that in 1826, when he was only nine years old, the youth and two cousins were sent to Truro, in Cornwall, to live with an uncle.  The new guardian was a merchant, and young John became acquainted with shipping and the ways of the sea.</p><P>Unfortunately for the boy, his uncle's business failed in 1828, and during the next year John went back to London.  By that time his father had died, and John lived with his mother, his sisters, and a younger brother.  The other boys, evidently, were already out earning their own livings or were in the care of relatives.  John, too, must have gone to work, because he later said that he never attended school after leaving Cornwall.</p><P>In May, 1832, he was apprenticed for five years on the schooner <HI REND="italics">Barkley</HI>
087.sgm: of Newport, Monmouthshire.  The vessel was engaged chiefly in the Mediterranean trade, and young Swan visited such out-of-the-way ports as Trieste, Messina, and the Ionian Islands.  On one voyage the <HI REND="italics">Barkley</HI>
087.sgm: carried lemons and oranges to St. Petersburgh in Russia, and on another it brought a cargo of shot and shell to Alexandria for Mohammed Aali Pasha.  "At Constantinople I ate my first grapes," John recalled in later years.  But this life was not all romance, and when a chance offered itself in London <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:he jumped ship "on account of ill usage."</p><P>He quickly found employment on a ship sailing for India, and from there he went to China.  Reaching Lintin in April, 1837, he went aboard the bark <HI REND="italics">Agnes</HI>
087.sgm:, commanded by his brother, Captain Robert Swan.  Evidently he did not find his brother a congenial master, because he soon left the <HI REND="italics">Agnes</HI>
087.sgm: and joined a schooner engaged in the opium trade.  Swan was not one to stay long on one ship, and in October, 1839, he signed on a vessel named the <HI REND="italics">Harlequin</HI>
087.sgm: and sailed for San Blas and Mazatlan on the west coast of Mexico.  Reaching the latter port in April, 1840, he left the ship and settled down for a few months of shore life.</p><P>During his years at sea Swan acquired the habit of reading.  Many a time, he later recalled, he received "a rope's ending" for having his nose in a book when he should have been attending to his duty.  Some of the works he read undoubtedly were the "penny shockers" of the period, but not all.  His letters and writings after he reached California show more than a passing acquaintance with the works of Edward Gibbon and Edmund Burke.</p><P>This passion for books remained with him all his life.  In 1873 when he was living near the San Antonio Mission in southern Monterey County, the wife of a Mexican storekeeper asked Swan how he could remain in a canyon all by himself.  She said she would go crazy under similar circumstances.  "But then," Swan told Hubert Howe Bancroft, "she could not read, and was alone when she had no company."  He, on the other hand, had the books he had read and the memory of the persons he had known and thus never felt lonely.<ANCHOR ID="nI-11">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-11">Swan to Bancroft, Monterey, March 19, 1875, MS, in Bancroft Library.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>Swan's fondness for reading may have been partly the result of certain physical traits and psychological characteristics which are revealed by his writings.  For most of his life he was plagued by poor eyesight.  "I did not know I was so nearsighted until I went to sea, and then I soon found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:it out," he said during his old age.  He was short in stature and rather ashamed of his appearance.  "I was not considered very good looking in my younger days," he once wrote to explain why he had not until then had a photograph taken.  The fact that he never married perhaps reflects the depth of his inner wounds.  During his declining years, still another defeat weighed heavily on his mind.  In his letters and articles the good-hearted old sailor frequently unveiled an unacknowledged need to defend himself for having failed to make his "pile" as had so many of his California companions of the days before the American conquest.</p><P>Ashore at Mazatlan, Swan boarded at the home of a Belgian resident and took life easy for a while.  Then his restlessness seized him once more, and on July 6, 1840, he took off on muleback for a trip across Mexico.  Passing through Durango, Saltillo, Monterrey, and Matamoros, he ended his journey at Brazos Santiago, where he joined a schooner bound for New Orleans.  After a few days at the Crescent City he moved on to Mobile.  He remained there several months and then worked for about six weeks on a schooner operating between that port and New Orleans.</p><P>In May, 1841, he resumed his travels.  He went up the Mississippi and Ohio rivers on the steamboat <HI REND="italics">Orinoco</HI>
087.sgm: to Cincinnati and then progressed by other boats to Wellsville, Ohio.  From there he walked to Cleveland, and for the remainder of the year he was employed on schooners plying the Great Lakes.  In December, 1841, he went by stage and railroad from Ogdensburg, New York, to Albany and then continued by river boat to New York City.  After a few days he sailed for New Orleans, where he joined the British bark, <HI REND="italics">Dumfriesshire</HI>
087.sgm:, bound for Liverpool with a cargo of cotton.</p><P>At Liverpool he remained three weeks with one of his brothers, and then he went on to London to spend some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:time with his mother and his two oldest sisters.  This was the last occasion on which he saw any of his relatives.  His mother died a year or two later.  "And a kind mother she was to me, as well as to the rest of her children," Swan attested.</p><P>On November 3, 1842, he left England in the bark <HI REND="italics">Robert Matthews</HI>
087.sgm: for Valparaiso.  From there he made his way by steamer to Callao.  Characteristically, he walked from the latter port to Lima "to take a look at it."  His curiosity satisfied, he returned to the sea and after some voyaging along the west coast of Mexico found himself again at Mazatlan on May 14, 1843.</p><P>Mazatlan appears to have had a fascination for Swan, for he went ashore there and remained several months, not stirring from the town except for one walk inland to San Ignacio.  But soon he was ready to be on the move again, and he shipped on board the hermaphrodite brig <HI REND="italics">Soledad</HI>
087.sgm:, bound for San Blas and then for Monterey, in Alta California.  The vessel was a miserable one, Mexican owned and only 105 tons in burden.  Swan found her to "leak like a sieve."  Tradition says that his position on board was that of cook, but his own writings apparently give no basis for affirming or denying this conclusion.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Soledad</HI>
087.sgm: sailed from San Blas on August 28, 1843.  Land was made near Point Sur on September 30.  At first glimpse, Swan was disappointed in California.  He had read Dana's <HI REND="italics">Two Years Before the Mast</HI>
087.sgm: and had received the impression that the coast was bounded by plains.  Instead, he saw mountains.  "It put me in mind of the coast of Old Spain," he later recollected.</p><P>The vessel anchored off Monterey on October 2.  Swan liked the town, although he was quick to note that it had a somewhat barren appearance since "the Montereyans, like the rest of the native population, were never famous for their gardening propensities."  He found the people <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:friendly and received the impression that "they did not then value a man for the clothes he wore, or gauge his brains by the depth of his purse."  Having a "bad hand," he decided to leave the <HI REND="italics">Soledad</HI>
087.sgm: and went ashore on October 7.</p><P>Once on land, however, his old restlessness overtook him.  He boarded at the home of George Kinlock, a Scotch carpenter and trader, for three weeks and made one excursion to see the Carmel Mission, but he found the town too quiet for his tastes and time growing heavy on his hands.  California, he thought, "was out of the world at that time."</p><P>At last he could stand the tedium no longer and asked a fellow countryman, Captain John Rogers Cooper, who had been born on the English island of Alderney, if he could work his passage to Mazatlan.  In addition to being a prominent trader and landowner, Cooper at that time was master of the Mexican schooner <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
087.sgm: which was engaged in the coastal trade between Mexico and California.</p><P>Cooper at first refused but later told Swan that if he would scrape a boat which the captain had ashore he would be given a chance to join the crew.  So John Swan dutifully chipped paint, and when the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
087.sgm: sailed for Mazatlan on December 10, 1843, he was aboard.</p><P>Again, says tradition, Swan was cook, but again Swan's own words fail to provide confirmation.  But this time he was something more than a common seaman.  While at Monterey Cooper had offered him a chance to go to the Rancho El Sur, near Point Sur, to take charge of the livestock there, but Swan "preferred books to horses or cattle" and declined.  Evidently, however, Cooper took a liking to the little sailor, for he permitted him to bring 70 arrobas of dried beef along as a speculation.</p><P>When Mazatlan was reached on January 4, 1844, Swan made a few dollars profit on the sale of his beef.  One of the passengers on the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
087.sgm: was not so fortunate.  Thomas O. Larkin, the leading American merchant at Monterey, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:had shipped a large load of potatoes on the vessel, but on arrival at Mazatlan he found that the little schooner <HI REND="italics">Susannah</HI>
087.sgm:, built on Napa Creek in 1841, had preceded him into port and had satisfied the demand for potatoes.  Not only did Larkin receive a poor price for his shipment, but heavy transit duties were assessed on some specie he landed.  It was on this trip, however, that Larkin learned of his appointment as United States consul for California, and this news, said Swan, "may have reconciled him to the tax."</p><P>The return trip to Monterey was begun on January 27.  On the second day out one of the Hawaiians in the crew came down with smallpox, and the disease spread to several other seamen.  When San Pedro was reached, Larkin and another passenger disembarked to ride by land to Monterey.  Upon his arrival home, Larkin gave the clothes he had worn during the voyage to a servant to wash, and soon smallpox was raging among the Indians of Monterey.  When the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
087.sgm: finally appeared off the port on March 10, 1844, the customhouse officers met her with an order to go to sea again because of the smallpox aboard; but the same officers brought Captain Cooper the news that his wife had just given birth to a daughter, so the captain swore he would see the governor damned before he would sail again and refused to go.</p><P>Despite the disaster the voyage brought to many others, it was a fortunate one for Swan.  He had brought back a small selection of trade goods, and he was able to dispose of them for a profit of about $50.  To raise money for further ventures, he sold his treasured frock coat which he had had made in London in 1842, and he exchanged a large writing desk he had purchased in Singapore for a smaller one and $20 to boot.  Partly with the capital thus raised and partly on credit, he bought another 70 arrobas of dried beef and a quantity of butter and cheese, and he and his goods were aboard the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
087.sgm: when it sailed for Mazatlan again on April 27.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:<P>This time, however, forutne deserted John Swan, and he lost money on his speculations in the markets of Mazatlan.  But when the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
087.sgm: returned to Monterey on June 17, he had another shipment of trade goods aboard.  Before Swan had time to dispose of them, Captain Cooper received orders to sail for Mazatlan with dispatches for the Mexican government.  Unable to leave Monterey with his goods unsold, Swan went ashore from the schooner on June 24, 1844.  Seemingly it was with a heavy heart that he saw the vessel sail the next day.  The pain would have been greater could he have known that he had made his last voyage before the mast.  He never again had anything to do with ships except as a passenger.</p><P>There is a tradition in Monterey that John Swan landed in the town "penniless as usual" and turned to the baking of pies to make a living.  These pies, it is said, sold as fast as he could turn them out, and he thus was soon able to accumulate sufficient funds to buy a lot and build a saloon and boarding house for sailors.  Perhaps he did bake pies--there is no record to the contrary--but in accounting for his activities after coming ashore, Swan himself said only that he opened a store at Monterey in 1844.  Contemporary records show that this store was operating as early as January, 1845; and all during that year he also boarded seamen.  Several of the latter were sick or destitute American sailors whose bills were paid by Consul Larkin.<ANCHOR ID="nI-12">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-12">Thomas O. Larkin, Accounts, MS, C-B 105/105, in Bancroft Library.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>Exactly when Jack bought the lot on the Calle Estrada which he owned all, or nearly all, the rest of his life has not yet been determined.  The location, on the southwest corner of the present Pacific and Scott streets, was a good one, convenient to the Custom House landing; and the size, 42 varas by 100 varas, was generous.  It must have represented a considerable investment for a man who had earned only a sailor's pittance during his working years.</p><P>Undoubtedly Swan made his purchase only after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:considerable hesitation.  During his trips on the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
087.sgm: in 1844, influential passengers had offered to help him obtain a rancho in the Sacramento Valley, but he had refused.  He had had his "teeth loosened" by the fever and ague while on Lake Erie in 1841, and he had no desire to have them completely shaken out of his head on the banks of the Sacramento or Feather rivers, both of which bore evil reputations as breeding grounds of fever.  Also, during his first year ashore he had little intention of remaining permanently in California.  So strong was this feeling, in fact, that he never mastered more than a few words of the Spanish language.  "Not expecting to stop in the country, I did not try to learn," he explained many years later.</p><P>Yet the fact remains that he bought the lot, and what is more, he had a house upon it.  Known today as "California's First Theater," this long, one-story adobe is one of Monterey's principal landmarks.  It is frequently stated that Swan had the structure erected in 1846 and 1847.  One enthusiastic witness went so far as to assert in later years that during 1847 he was "connected with its construction and dedication in the good old adobe days of Monterey."<ANCHOR ID="nI-13">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: But Swan does not give much support to such statements.  In fact, his testimony is to the contrary.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-13">"Pioneer Theatrical Exhibitions," in <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm:<P>Writing to a newspaper editor in 1869, Swan described the character of the Irish sailor, William McGlone, whom he met in 1844 and who, consular records show, boarded at Swan's house in the latter part of 1845.  "Billy had a tolerable education, and was a good sort of a fellow when sober, but contrary enough when half drunk," Swan related; "in 1845 he wanted to ride on horseback into my house by the front door, but because I would not let him, he made a blow at me with a Mexican cutlass he had with him, but I dodged the blow and it took out a piece of my door casing, and the mark is there yet, though painted over, for I let it remain so in memory of old times.<ANCHOR ID="nI-14">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-14">[Swan] to "Mr. Editor," Monterey, December 8, 1869, MS, in Bancroft Library.</NOTE>
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087.sgm:<P>Here in the words of Swan, who was careful about dates, is evidence that the house was standing at least as early as 1845.  Perhaps the northern end of the structure, which apparently is the older, was built by Swan when he first bought the lot, or perhaps it was already on the property.  The southern section may have been added in 1846 or 1847.</p><P>Swan seems to have taken no part in the events of the conquest of California by the United States.  He remained quietly at Monterey, making friends with the American soldiers and sailors who occasionally crowded the town.  He continued to operate his store, to board seamen, and, it is said, to dispense liquor at a saloon which occupied one section of his building.  For the rest of his life he took delight in telling of the little events which came to his notice during the period of military rule--how he had his eyes blackened trying to break up a fight among a group of sailors, how the crew of the <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth's</HI>
087.sgm: launch stole Billy McGlone's big iron kettle, and how Lieutenant William T. Sherman dumped a perfectly good cask of <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
087.sgm: into Monterey Bay to keep the soldiers from drinking it.  The only claim he ever made to distinction during this time was for having placed an advertisement for a lost horse in the first issue of California's first newspaper, the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
087.sgm:.</p><P>But the Mexican War came near to counting John Swan among its casualties.  During the spring of 1847 the United States ship <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
087.sgm: arrived in Monterey from a cruise in the Pacific.  She carried aboard a "malignant disease" from Manila which spread among the townspeople.  Lieutenant Colville J. Minor and nine enlisted men of Company F, 3rd Artillery, died of the malady.  "Little Jack Swan," as he was then affectionately known, was among those who contracted the disease.  For a while it was "touch and go" with him, but he finally recovered.</p><P>By the time the news of the gold discovery reached Monterey early in 1848, Swan seems to have become quite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:satisfied with life in the quiet coastal town.  For a man of his restlessness and curiosity he was a remarkably long time in catching the gold fever.  When he finally left for the mines toward the end of July, he was among the last of the Monterey residents to depart for the new El Dorado.</p><P>His labors in the diggings near the present Placerville and on Dry Creek, so vividly descibed in his narrative, "A Trip to the Gold Mines of California in 1848," were not remunerative.  Upon his return to Monterey in the latter part of October, he carried with him only a modest three pounds of dust--and an unquenchable thirst for the life of a prospector.</p><P>Apparently it was about this time that Swan's name became indelibly attached to the story of the theater in California.  During the fall of 1847 soldiers belonging to the Monterey garrison had organized a minstrel show and other amateur theatricals.  Tradition says that after several performances at the Cuartel, or barracks, and in the open air, they or their successors among Colonel Stevenson's New York Volunteers, received Swan's permission to set up a theater in the warehouse which adjoined his store and saloon.  The first play to be staged in California "for money," it is said, was performed in Swan's theater during the spring of 1848.</p><P>Such may have been the case.  However, most of these stories connect the use of Swan's house as a theater with the arrival in Monterey of three companies of volunteers who had been sent there to be mustered out of service.  Companies A, B, and D of Stevenson's regiment were disbanded at Monterey on October 23 and 24, 1848.</p><P>If Jack Swan's storehouse was used as a theater during the fall of 1848, it was not for long.  Many of the volunteers left for the mines as soon as they were mustered out, and on April 1, 1849, Swan leased the building to the United States Government as a warehouse for naval stores.<ANCHOR ID="nI-15">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-15">Thomas O. Larkin, Accounts, U.S. Navy Agent, MS, C-B 105/26, in Bancroft Library.</NOTE>
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087.sgm:<P>Swan himself was soon otherwise occupied.  Sometime before August, 1849, Father Doroteo Ambris visited Monterey with a small sample of scale gold which had been picked up near San Antonio Mission.  He left the flakes at James Watson's store, and there Swan saw them.  At once he experienced another attack of the gold fever, and a party was organized during August to explore the new placer.  Not a trace of color could be found, however, and the prospectors soon returned to Monterey.  Evidently this experience did not reduce the fever, and in September Swan and a company of friends, mostly soldiers from the 3rd Artillery, were back at the mines, this time in the vicinity of Jamestown and at the Mariposa diggings.</p><P>How successful this venture was is not recorded.  Perhaps Swan made a modest "pile," for by the next year he was the owner of four lots in Monterey; three nearby "wood lots"; a horse, mule, and wagon; his house; and cash and goods to the value of $2,000.<ANCHOR ID="nI-16">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-16">M. G. Vallejo, <HI REND="italics">Documentos para la historia de California</HI>
087.sgm:<P>At any rate, Swan seems to have returned to Monterey before the end of 1849.  And about that time there appears uncontestable evidence that his warehouse was being used for theatrical purposes.  Writing about General Alfred Sully in 1879, the old sailor recalled that Sully, as a young infantry lieutenant, "helped to paint some of the scenery for the theatre in my old adobe house in Monterey" during the latter part of 1849 and the beginning of 1850.  Letters from Sully to his family written during December, 1849, and February, 1850, confirm Swan's testimony and give lively descriptions of the performances.<ANCHOR ID="nI-17">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-17">"The Knave," in <HI REND="italics">Oakland Tribune</HI>
087.sgm:<P>During the early part of 1850 Swan continued to live at Monterey, operating a small grocery store and living at a boarding house "opposite Abrego's" run by Wilson and Wolfe.  In May, he visited San Francisco on business and witnessed the fire which levelled three blocks of the city.  While on another trip to San Francisco in November, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:was nearly burned to death in a hotel fire at San Jose.  It probably was with some relief that he occasionally rusticated at a ranch which he and his partner, Harris, operated in Carmel Valley.  There, the only danger to be feared was from the grizzly bears.</p><P>Despite the rather pleasant life which Jack Swan seems to have created for himself in Monterey during the 1850's, he could not get rid of the mining fever.  Late in 1851 and early in 1852, and again in 1856, he visited the gold fields of Mariposa County.  About 1855 he returned to the vicinity of San Antonio Mission, where traces of gold provided a will-o'-the-wisp which fascinated him for all the rest of his life.  Characteristically, he came back to Monterey from one prospecting trip in March, 1855, riding a young mare, lame in one foot, which he had bought specially on account of that defect, "as it would not be worth while for anyone to steal her."  He visited San Antonio again in 1857 with his friends "Billy the Brewer" and "Bob the Fisherman," but there is no record of the results.</p><P>The Fraser River excitement of 1859 gave John another virulent attack of the gold fever.  He was at Victoria, British Columbia, in May of 1859, and from there he went to the mines on the mainland.  Monterey did not see him again until toward the end of 1863; but he went back to Vancouver Island during 1864 and did not return to Monterey until November, 1866.  Nothing is known of his experiences in Canada.  In 1879 he sent a sketch of his adventures during a winter on Thompson River to a California newspaper; but evidently the editor did not think his readers would be interested in such a subject, and the account was never published.</p><P>It was after his return from Fraser River that Swan's thoughts began to turn more and more to the "old days" in California.  He started to jot down accounts of incidents he remembered, and then he sent them off to editors of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:papers in Monterey and the surrounding area.  For more than a decade, beginning in the late 1860's, articles by him appeared with some regularity in such periodicals as the Castroville <HI REND="italics">Argus</HI>
087.sgm:, the Salinas <HI REND="italics">City Index</HI>
087.sgm:, the Monterey <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
087.sgm:, the Monterey <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
087.sgm:, the Santa Cruz <HI REND="italics">Sentinel</HI>
087.sgm:, and the San Jose <HI REND="italics">Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm:.</p><P>As might be expected from his lack of formal education, Swan never mastered all the intricacies of English grammar and punctuation; but with his extensive reading to draw upon, he developed a highly effective and entertaining narrative style.  He had an ear for a colorful phrase and did not hesitate to use puns when he saw fit, which was rather often.  His articles are frequently recognizable by his rather unsophisticated humor.</p><P>"I think the Chico papers might have said a little more of an old pioneer on his death," he wrote to an editor upon hearing of the demise of Albert G. Toomes; "they may plead want of paper, as they have no paper mill; want of ink, as they have no ink manufactory; but they cannot plead want of pens, as they have a large Feather [River] near them which would make a great many quill pens, if they are short of steel ones."</p><P>Undoubtedly, Swan's principal reason for writing was to preserve for posterity what he knew of the olden times and the colorful pioneers of California.  But there was also an economic motive.  Short of cash during his later years and hungry for news, he seems to have hoped that editors would respond to his contributions with free copies of their papers.</p><P>A very modest person on the whole, Jack could not repress an occasional revelation of pride in authorship.  He once told Hubert Howe Bancroft that he thought one of his sketches, though a trifle, was "as good in its way as many of the articles the Harpers take out of their drawer to publish, and then, it is a genuine California production, not an imported article."  When, as occasionally happened, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:an editor failed to publish one of his submissions, he became discouraged and sometimes stopped writing for a while.  At first a staunch supporter of Bancroft, Swan later broke with him because of a fancied, or real, slight to his work and knowledge on the part of the historian and one or two of his assistants.</p><P>No one has ever collected all of Jack Swan's writings, and probably no one ever will.  Many of them would be difficult to identify, since they sometimes carried no signature at all, or appeared over such pen names as "Pioneer," "An Old Salt," or "Pioneer of 1843."  Yet if assembled, they would constitute a valuable body of source materials.  "Swan's writings are not only interesting," said Hubert Howe Bancroft, "but remarkably accurate, his memory being rarely at fault, and the tendency to testify on matters beyond his personal knowledge--too prevalent among pioneer writers--being in his case reduced to a minimum."<ANCHOR ID="nI-18">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-18">Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
087.sgm:<P>From the late 1860's to the 1890's, "Uncle John Swan," as he came to be known, lived a life which bordered on poverty.  His Monterey property provided him with a modest income for a number of years.  His adobe house was rented out for a variety of uses, apparently serving at different times as a boarding house for whalers, a "tenement house," a drug store, a tea room, and a "shop."  When "at home" he lived at Monterey for, as he told a friend in 1878, "I like the place, in spite of its decayed look, on account of the beauty of its surroundings, and the memories associated with them."  But much of his time was spent near San Antonio, still searching for the fortune in gold which always eluded him.</p><P>His life in southern Monterey County was a lonely one, and sometimes dangerous.  His small cabin near Jolon was broken into on at least one occasion.  In 1878, while riding alone from Arroyo Seco to Soledad for provisions, his hat blew off.  When he dismounted to pick it up, his horse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:bolted and dragged him for a considerable distance.  Severely lacerated, the resourceful old sailor "bound his wounded fingers with Australian blue gum leaves, and found that it did them a great deal of good."</p><P>Always nearsighted, Swan's eyes grew worse as he became older; and during the 1870's deafness began to come upon him.  During July, 1879, he told the editor of the San Jose <HI REND="italics">Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm: that he supposed he would "have to give up roving in the hills after this year, as I am getting deafer as well as older all the time--a great disadvantage in the mountains."  Early November, however, found him still wandering about from place to place and looking forward to his sixty-second birthday on November 23.  "I don't know where I shall spend it," he admitted to the editor of the Salinas <HI REND="italics">Index</HI>
087.sgm:.</p><P>The old sailor's principal joy during his last years was visiting with his pioneer cronies and talking over early times with them.  One of his regular stopping places was the farm of James Meadows in Carmel Valley, and he had other friends near Monterey on whom he could count for occasional bed and board.  Sometimes his visits took him as far afield as San Jose and San Francisco.  Occasionally such trips were made by train or other public conveyance, but most often he walked.</p><P>As the years went by, he became a familiar figure on the roads of Central California.  His hatband, bearing the legend, "Pioneer of '43," served as his credentials.  Those who enjoyed reminiscing about the past looked forward to his visits, but there were some among his old acquaintances who experienced mixed feelings when the garrulous, rather shabby old sailor made his appearance.  Learning that Swan was planning to call upon one editor in 1878, the publisher of another paper slyly wrote, "We'll bet on Jack outwinding him."  Yet when Swan died, a Monterey paper said, "He is the only man we ever knew of whom it may be said that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:had no enemies."</p><P>At last old age and infirmities put an end to Jack Swan's wanderings.  He lost his little remaining property, and his final years were spent as a county charge.  On the evening of January 6, 1896, while walking down a hall in the Monterey County Hospital in Salinas, the venerable pioneer fell dead from a heart attack.</p><P>His remains were brought to Monterey, where the town's early settlers took up a subscription to give their old friend a respectable funeral.  "Poor old Jack Swan has ended his long and eventful career and gone the way of all flesh," commented the editor of the Monterey <HI REND="italics">Cypress</HI>
087.sgm:.  Every man, woman or child knew him and respected him for kindness of heart.  He was guileless like a child, and will undoubtedly secure a reserved seat in heaven, for we honestly believe he is entitled to it."<ANCHOR ID="nI-19">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nI-19"><P>Monterey <HI REND="italics">Cypress</HI>
087.sgm:, January 11, 1896.  This sketch of Swan's life is based largely upon his own words, as found in numerous newspaper articles.  The principal sources are:  <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm: (San Jose), January [27], November 10, December 8, 15, 1877; January 12, February 16, March 30, April 6, 27, May 4, 18, June 8, 22, August 3, 1878; April 12, 19, May 3, 17, August 9, 1879; September 18, 1880; April 2, 1881; Salinas <HI REND="italics">City Index</HI>
087.sgm:, September 27, November 22, December 20, 27, 1877; July 4, 1878; November 6, 1879.</p><P>In addition to the other sources cited in the footnotes above, the following works have been useful: Laura Bride Powers, <HI REND="italics">Old Monterey, California's Adobe Capital</HI>
087.sgm: (San Francisco, 1934); John A. Swan, Historical Sketches, MS, in Bancroft Library; and George Tays, <HI REND="italics">First Theatre in California</HI>
087.sgm:<P>This edition of John Swan's "A Trip to the Gold Mines of California" has been prepared from the manuscript copy in the Bancroft Library.  The whereabouts of the original text is unknown.  In editing Swan's work for this, its first printing, no significant material has been omitted except for a short section at the very end entitled "Reminiscences of the Alta Cal."  This essay, occupying three pages of the manuscript, has no connection with the account of the trip to the mines.  After the main narrative had been completed, Swan saw an article in the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
087.sgm: of March 6, 1870, on the arrival of the New York Volunteers at San Francisco.  Noting several errors in the item, he desired to make a record of his corrections and chose for this purpose the blank pages at the end of his gold rush manuscript.  Swan's comments on this occasion are of no particular interest, and it has seemed best not to include them in this publication.  The only other material left out consists of several subheadings used by Swan which interfere with the flow of the narrative.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:<P>Every effort has been made to preserve scrupulously the sense of Swan's text, but there seemed to be no point to reproducing his unorthodox punctuation or all of his misspelled words and his frequent abbreviations, particularly since a number of the errors obviously were the fault of Bancroft's clerks who copied from the original manuscript.  Certain minor corrections and changes have therefore been made, paragraphing has been supplied, the account has been divided into chapters, and chapter headings have been inserted.  But enough grammatical errors and rambling sentences have been left to convey the flavor of "Uncle John Swan's" inimitable style.</p><P>The Book Club of California is indebted to Dr. George P. Hammond, Director of the Bancroft Library, University of California, for permission to print Swan's narrative.  Thanks are also extended to Mr. James deT. Abajian, Librarian, California Historical Society; Mrs. Maria Daly, Historical Guide, California Division of Beaches and Parks, Monterey; Mrs. Helen S. Giffen, of the staff of the Society of California Pioneers; and Mr. Allan R. Ottley, California Section Librarian, California State Library, for special assistance in the search to discover more about the life and work of John A. Swan.</p><P>John A. Hussey</p><P>Piedmont, California</p><P>September 5, 1960</p></DIV>
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087.sgm:<P>A TRIP TO THE GOLD MINES OF CALIFORNIA IN 1848</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER ONE<LB>To the Diggings on Horseback<LB></HEAD>
087.sgm:<P>ON THE DISCOVERY OF THE GOLD MINES in California in the spring of 1848, but few people in the country believed it at first, and but still fewer believed in the large quantities said to be found.  Even the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
087.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">California Star</HI>
087.sgm:, newspapers published in San Francisco, ridiculed the idea of men making $16 per day with only pick, shovel, and pan when several of their employees left them to go gold mining; and I did not believe in the big gold stories myself at first.</p><P>And though a few people came from the mines with some dust, there was not much excitement in Monterey until the month of June, when four Mormons arrived on horseback from Mormon's Island with 100 lbs. avoirdupois weight of gold which they had taken out in four weeks.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: They were on their way to Los Angeles but had come to Monterey to buy some goods and provisions for the road.  And when, in answer to anxious inquirers, they said there was plenty of gold left where they had been at work, the gold excitement broke out in the old town of Monterey in earnest, for it was the first arrival of gold in a large quantity in the town, for though several people had gone to the mines from it, only a few had returned with a few hundred dollars in dust.<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Mormon Island, on the South Fork of the American River about 18 miles below Coloma, was the scene of a gold discovery early in March, 1848.  Two Mormons on their way from Sutter's sawmill to his gristmill, near the present Brighton, found "color" at this spot, and later examination by them and other Mormons from the flour mill revealed rich deposits.  The vicinity was the "second proved placer," and about 300 men were working there by July.  The site is now covered by the waters of Folsom Reservoir.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">Accounts differ as to when the gold fever struck in force at Monterey.  Sutter's emissary, Charles Bennett, showed samples of gold dust in the town during February, 1848.  James H. Carson says that "many" inhabitants left for the mines during April and May, some privately to avoid ridicule in case the discovery proved a hoax.  Carson remained an unbeliever until May 10 when, he says, a friend returned from the mines with a "great bag" of gold.  <HI REND="italics">Recollections of the California Mines</HI>
087.sgm: (Oakland, California, 1950), 2-4.  Jacques Antoine Moerenout, the French consul at Monterey, reported on June 10 that all of the Americans in town who were not detained by important business had already left for the mines.  <HI REND="italics">The Inside Story of the Gold Rush</HI>
087.sgm: (San Francisco, 1935), 2.  Walter Colton, American alcalde of Monterey, on the other hand, first gives notice to the discovery on May 29 but says the people were skeptical.  Not until June 20 does he state that the return of a "messenger" from the mines with samples of gold had produced intense excitement.  <HI REND="italics">Three Years in California</HI>
087.sgm:<P>But now bullock teams began to be more valuable, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:pack animals and packsaddles to rise in the market, as well as picks, shovels, and pans; and the blacksmiths had their hands full sharpening or making picks; and Uncle Sam's soldiers and sailors began to find fault with the slow way they were making their piles in his service.  The soldiers grumbled among themselves about the hardships of standing guard, polishing muskets, and cleaning and pipe-claying their leather belts when they might be busy in the mines, putting gold in their leather bags.  The sailors growled about the evils of holystoning decks and being forced to leave their hammocks on wet and stormy nights to take in sail when they might be in the mines making money and have no sail to take in and might drink as much grog as they chose if they had the money to pay for it, without having their backs clawed by the cats for doing so.</p><P>As the excitement increased, some of the soldiers commenced their march for the gold placers without asking leave of absence, no doubt thinking it was wasting words and time to do so.  And sailors got their land tacks on board, and some of them made a straight wake for the mines, preferring the flapjacks and freedom of the diggings and the jingling of the gold dust in their buckskin bags to the hard biscuit of a man-of-war and the music of the boatswain's whistle.<ANCHOR ID="n1-3">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3">There is ample evidence as to the high rate of desertions among the Army and Navy units in California.  At one time during the summer of 1848, Colonel R. B. Mason believed the California garrisons would desert <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
087.sgm:<P>When a man-of-war's boat came ashore now, the officers were armed to prevent their men from deserting; but desert they did, sometimes in broad daylight, in spite of the bullets from the revolvers.  And a party of sailors from the <HI REND="italics">Warren</HI>
087.sgm:, U.S. sloop of war, including the master-at-arms, took a boat and went ashore with it and left it on the beach and stowed themselves in the pine woods till dark, when they came in town and bought provisions for the road.  But instead of starting off at once for the mines in company with Peter Brennan,<ANCHOR ID="n1-4">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: bricklayer, who was going to the mines with them, they all got drunk; and when they started on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:the road at night they had so much liquor on board that they brought up on the sandy beach near the Custom House abreast of their own ship, and all went to sleep.  And the officers of the <HI REND="italics">Warren</HI>
087.sgm: might have recaptured them without any trouble if they had only known how near the deserters were.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-4">"Peter Brannan" seems to have been the correct spelling of this name, although Brannan himself appears to have written it "Peter Brenan."  An Irishman and a bricklayer by trade, he first appears in the California record in 1846.  He served in Co. B, California Volunteers, fighting in the Battle of Natividad.  He worked at his trade in Monterey in 1847 and went to the mines the next year.  Later in this narrative, Swan tells what little is known of Brannan's demise.  "Peter was a very good kind of man when sober," Swan said on another occasion, "and was not very quarrelsome when in liquor."  [Swan] to "Mr. Editor," Monterey, December 8, 1869, MS.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>One of the party, waking up just before daylight, heard the ship's bell strike, and waking up the rest of the party, they proceeded to walk away at a rapid rate from their dangerous position.  I did not know of their sleeping camp on the beach at the time, but they told me about it a month afterwards in the mines while we were camped together.</p><P>I was not ready to go to the mines till the latter part of July, and when I did, after buying two horses, I went alone, for the bulk of the people who were going to the mines had left; and if women's rights had come to the vote then I suppose they would have carried the day, as there was three women left in the town to one man.</p><P>I left Monterey for the mines the latter part of July with two horses, one to ride and the other packed, and pretty heavy packed he was, for being green at the packing business I overpacked him, for including tools, provisions, spare blankets, and some spare clothing to sell in the mines, I had 240 lbs. on my pack animal, including one pound of glass beads.  Some people told me glass beads sold to the Indians for their weight in gold in the mines, but though I did not believe it, I took them with me as they were of not much weight and took up but little room.</p><P>I had to call at the Colorado ranch, between the Salinas plains and the Pajaro River.<ANCHOR ID="n1-5">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: It was then owned by the widow and children of David Littlejohn, an old pioneer, for I had made a bargain with her for 26 lbs. of <HI REND="italics">pinole</HI>
087.sgm:, parched corn ground into meal.  I had used it in going from Mazatlan in Mexico to Durango in 1840, and a person can live and travel on it as food in a pinch when he can get no better; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:and when mixed with sugar and cold water it saves time and trouble to a green cook.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-5">Swan's memory made one of its rare failures when he wrote the name of David Littlejohn's rancho as "Colorado" instead of the true "Los Carneros."  Littlejohn was a Scotch farmer and carpenter who came to California in 1824.  By 1833 he had found a bride among the daughters of the country, and his land grant came the next year.  His rancho lay immediately east of Elkhorn Slough, about 6 miles north of the present Castroville.  During the conquest of California he got into a dispute with a group of Fre&acute;mont's men who were commandeering cattle and equipment from the ranchos and was nearly killed.  He died soon afterwards.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>I arrived at the Colorado rancho, got my <HI REND="italics">pinole</HI>
087.sgm:, mixed several pounds of sugar with it, and started again.  I made 40 miles from Monterey that day, camping out 3 or 4 miles from old Jack Gilroy's rancho of San Isidro.<ANCHOR ID="n1-6">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: But though I traveled fast I lost nothing off my pack animal, for having been formerly at sea, though I knew nothing about packing horses, I knew about making things fast and did not spare rope and rope yarns in doing so.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-6">John Gilroy, an honest, good-hearted Scotch sailor, reached California in the North West Company's vessel, the <HI REND="italics">Isaac Todd</HI>
087.sgm:<P>I stopped at Gilroy's rancho [for a] time next morning to have a chat with him, as I had known him some time before; but he found fault with my packing arrangements and undertook to pack my mining tools better.  And the consequence was I lost my pick, for it dropped out before I had gone far from the rancho, and I did not miss it till I had gone 4 miles and then would not go back to look for it.</p><P>Poor old Jack Gilroy.  He died last year in poverty, the oldest foreign settler in California, for he came to California in 1814.  But if he was able to come back from his grave and speak he would have a growl at the writer in the <HI REND="italics">Morning Call</HI>
087.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n1-7">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and the Society of California Pioneers to boot, at the first for making such a blunder as to say he came to California in a Hudson's Bay Company's ship when he came out in a North West Company's vessel, for how could he have come in a Hudson's Bay Company's ship when they had nothing to do with the Pacific Coast trade at that time and did not have till years afterwards, until the British government had the two companies amalgamated together to keep them from quarreling and fighting with one another?<ANCHOR ID="n1-8">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: And I suppose old Jack Gilroy would growl if he could at the Pioneer Society for not taking notice of and correcting the blunder and would say thay might lay out some of the money they are spending on that fine building of theirs in San Francisco in biographical, statistical, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:historical accounts of early days and early pioneers in California.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-7">The San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Daily Morning Call</HI>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-8">The North West Company, a Canadian firm with headquarters at Montreal, largely controlled the fur trade of the Oregon Country from the time it purchased Astor's Pacific interests in 1813 until 1821, when it lost its identity through merger with its London-based rival, the Hudson's Bay Company.  The British government exerted pressure on the two firms to discontinue their bitter strife for control of the fur trade throughout most of the present Canada.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>I once joined the Pioneer Society myself, in November, 1850.  At least I paid my entrance fee of $10 by the advice of Mr. W. [D.] M. Howard<ANCHOR ID="n1-9">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and Talbot H. Green,<ANCHOR ID="n1-10">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: though I have had no connection with it since, for like other societies I suppose it only remembers rich members and forgets the poor ones.<ANCHOR ID="n1-11">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-9">William Davis Merry Howard, a Bostonian, came to California by sea in 1839 and in 1845, with Henry Mellus, opened a store at San Francisco.  Trading during the gold rush brought him wealth.  He was the first president of the Society of California Pioneers, serving from 1850 to 1853.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-10">Talbot H. Green, an overland immigrant of 1841, was for a number of years associated in business with Thomas O. Larkin in Monterey.  In January, 1849, he became a member of the San Francisco trading firm of Mellus &amp; Howard.  He was active in the business and political affairs of the city until 1851, when he was recognized as Paul Geddes, an absconder with funds from a Pennsylvania bank.  Green was the treasurer of the Society of California Pioneers upon the founding of that organization in 1850.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-11">In this paragraph Swan illustrates two characteristic traits which are frequently revealed in his writings: first, his penchant for correcting errors in the historical writings of others, especially writers of newspaper articles; and second, his chiding of well-to-do pioneers in general, and of the Society of California Pioneers in particular, for what he chose to see as neglect of the more unfortunate "old boys" such as Gilroy and himself who had not made, or kept, their piles.  The minutes of the Society of California Pioneers for November, 1850, contain no indication of any action towards membership on the part of Swan.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>I arrived at Mr. Murphy's rancho<ANCHOR ID="n1-12">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: about noon and stopped there till 4 p.m., for it was a very hot day, when Sergeant Charles Layton<ANCHOR ID="n1-13">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: of old Company F, U.S. 3rd Artillery, with Private Russell H. Main,<ANCHOR ID="n1-14">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: rode up to the house.  They had been dispatched from Monterey in quest of deserters, and I traveled with them, and we stopped at Captain Fisher's rancho of the Laguna Seca<ANCHOR ID="n1-15">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: that night.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-12">Rancho Ojo de Agua de la Coche was then owned by Martin Murphy, Sr.  The ranch house built by this estimable Irish pioneer of 1844 was described by a visitor of 1847 as being built of upright poles and "exceedingly open."  It stood near the present town of Morgan Hill, evidently on the southern part of the Laguna Seca rancho.  Being close to the main road from Monterey to San Jose, it was a favorite stopping place for travelers, and it is said that "even the most humble wayfarer found welcome."</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-13">Charles Layton was the Orderly Sergeant (or Ordinance Sergeant) of Co. F.  He was an Englishman and had served in the British Army.  After trying the gold mines from 1849 to 1852, he returned to Monterey, later becoming keeper at the Point Pinos Lighthouse.  He was mortally wounded in 1855 helping in an attempt to capture the bandit Anastasio Garci&acute;a.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-14">This name is sometimes written as "Russell M. Main."</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-15">William Fisher, a Boston sea captain, purchased the Rancho La Laguna Seca in the Santa Clara Valley in 1845.  Swan had known him during the early 1840's on the Mexican coast.  Captain Fisher did not live much of the time on the ranch, his main efforts being devoted to a retail business in San Jose.  The ranch house was near the north end of the property, about a quarter mile east of the present Coyote.  It was described in 1847 as "a dirty place."</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>Next morning we rode on and passed through the Pueblo of San Jose and camped halfway between there and the Mission of San Jose during the heat of the day under the shade of some trees.  While there, an Indian came along on horseback from the mines, and Sergeant Layton bought some gold dust of him at $8 per ounce.  As none of the party had any weight or scales, we made a pair for the occasion with a piece of twig for a beam and some cotton rag and twine for scales, using Mexican silver for weights.</p><P>We stopped at the Mission of San Jose that night.  Next morning we traveled on, and I made my first acquaintance with a California mosquito, for though I had been living in California 4 years it was my first bite from a mosquito, and I suppose he was one of a few stragglers from the sloughs of the San Joaquin.  Shortly after making the acquaintance with the mosquito, our party separated, Layton and his comrade going for Amador's rancho<ANCHOR ID="n1-16">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: to meet Lieutenant E. O. C. Ord, now General Ord,<ANCHOR ID="n1-17">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and a party of soldiers after deserters and I riding for Livermore's rancho,<ANCHOR ID="n1-18">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: where I arrived at noon.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-16">Jose&acute; Mari&acute;a Amador's Rancho San Ramo&acute;n was in the southern part of the present Contra Costa County and the northern part of Alameda County.  His adobe home stood on the site of today's Dublin.  The sturdy old soldier, who bore 14 arrow wounds in his body, was absent at the mines when Swan passed near his ranch.  In later years he lost his property and had to move from his beloved San Ramo&acute;n.  He boasted that grape brandy had "been his beverage from boyhood," and he smoked 40 cigarettes a day.  In 1883, when he claimed to be 106 years old, he was in good health and weighed 180 pounds.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-17">Edward Otho Cresap Ord, a native of Maryland, graduated from West Point in 1839 and came to California as a first lieutenant in the 3rd Artillery.  On July 25, 1848, which must have been within a few days of his visit to Amador's, Ord dated his "Topographical Sketch of the Gold &amp; Quicksilver District of California," one of the best-known of the early maps of the gold fields.  Ord served with distinction in the Civil War and became a brigadier general in the regular army in 1866.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-18">Robert Livermore was one of the first of the "old boys" to establish himself in California.  An English sailor, he deserted from the trading ship <HI REND="italics">Colonel Young</HI>
087.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:<P>I was acquainted with Bob Livermore, as the old settlers used to call him, the year before in Monterey, and he had lived there previous to moving to his rancho.  After having dinner with him I went down and camped in a bottom below the house with a large party from San Jose on the road for the diggings, who were to leave next morning for the mines.  Mr. Peter Davidson,<ANCHOR ID="n1-19">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: of San Jose, Weeks,<ANCHOR ID="n1-20">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and Mr. Charles White, alcalde of San Jose who was killed some years afterwards by the explosion of the steamer while going from San Francisco to Alviso,<ANCHOR ID="n1-21">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: were among the party.  Some discharged or deserted volunteers were there also.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-19">Peter Davidson, or Peter Daveson as he was also, and perhaps more properly, called, was a native of Europe--he could not remember in later years if he was born in Italy or Austria--and came to California as a young man of about 25 in 1841.  He established himself in San Jose in 1842 and lived with Charles M. Weber until 1845.  By 1846 he operated a store and hotel there.  He married a granddaughter of Luis Peralta.  After visiting the mines in 1848, he returned to San Jose, where he owned property in 1849.  He was still living there as late as 1884.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-20">James W. Weeks was a bandy-legged English seaman who jumped ship at Sausalito in 1831.  After floating about for a number of years working at odd jobs, he settled down, first at Santa Cruz and then at San Jose.  He served as first alcalde of the latter town from September 14, 1847, to February 9, 1848, when he was succeeded by Charles White.  Known in later years as "a kind old gentleman," he died in San Jose in 1881.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-21">Charles White came to California overland in 1846.  Settling with his wife at San Jose, he was appointed a town councilman in December, 1846.  He became first alcalde on February 9, 1848, and served until the end of the year.  He was among the 31 persons killed when the steamer <HI REND="italics">Jenny Lind</HI>
087.sgm:<P>Mr. Josiah Belden,<ANCHOR ID="n1-22">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: with a geologist<ANCHOR ID="n1-23">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: for a companion, stopped at our camp for a short time that afternoon on their way to San Jose from the mines.  They had been through different parts of the mines; and I remember the geologist saying there was little gold in the Stanislaus country, though miners who knew nothing about geology found plenty shortly afterwards.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-22">Josiah Belden, born in Connecticut, came overland to California with the first immigrant party in 1841.  After a varied experience as a merchant, he early in 1848 opened a branch store in San Jose for the San Francisco firm of Mellus &amp; Howard.  But, as Bancroft says, he "soon followed his customers to the mines," leaving the store in the charge of a friend.  Belden had left the Old Dry Diggings to return to San Jose on July 22.  In later years Belden became wealthy through real estate investments; he moved to New York during the 1880's.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-23">Geologists were few and far between in California during 1848, but the identity of this one has not been definitely established.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>We left at daybreak for the San Joaquin Valley.  We traveled slow, and now and then we would come in sight of an old California cart broke down and sometimes abandoned, the goods in it taken away [by] other teams or pack animals.  Sometimes we would meet returning miners on foot driving their skeletons of horses before them with a stick, for they were too poor to be ridden, having enough to do to carry their own bodies without riders, for if the miners in early days had a good time, the poor horses had pretty hard ones.  And in answer to inquiries about the mines, some of the miners were not backward in showing their buckskin bags and the gold that was in them.</p><P>We camped that night near a slough a few miles from the San Joaquin River where the feed was good for our animals and fine wood convenient.  And we thought we should pass a pleasant night but were disappointed, for after supper and smoking and talking a while, the whole party laid down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:well rolled up in blankets to keep clear of the mosquitoes who were bleeding them so freely and making them pay toll to them.  Like other greenhorns, I always thought mosquitoes were worse on newcomers than old residents.  Perhaps like the human race they like a change of diet.  After tossing about and trying to sleep for some hours, it was given up for a bad job by the whole party for that night, and the campfires were started afresh and were soon surrounded by men determined to make the best of a bad job; and smoking, singing, and spinning yarns was indulged in by the whole party more or less till daylight.</p><P>After breakfast I packed and saddled up and started ahead of the rest of the party for the San Joaquin.  It was slow traveling on account of mud and water, and I did not get there till after noon.  The only means of transport across the river was a small boat belonging to Mr. Charles Weber<ANCHOR ID="n1-24">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: of Stockton; but he was not there nor was there anyone in charge of her, and she was free to the use of the public.  Mr. John Robertson<ANCHOR ID="n1-25">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and Mr. Alfred Townsend,<ANCHOR ID="n1-26">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: bakers and saloonkeepers, partners, were there with a California cart and bullock team, with a load of goods; and three more men from Monterey were with them.  They were getting their things across the river when I arrived, and by the time everything was across the river and the team ready to start it was 5 p.m., and I concluded to go with them.  The San Jose party stopped on the opposite shore that night.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-24">Charles M. Weber, a native of Germany, came overland to California in 1841, settling at San Jose.  During 1845, he acquired full ownership of the Rancho del Campo de los Franceses, upon which in 1847 he laid out the town of Tuleburg, which in 1849 was renamed Stockton.  Soon after knowledge of the gold discovery became general, Weber went to the mines and, with a group of friends and Indians, helped open the diggings on Weber Creek.  By early July his camp on Weber Creek was a center for the Old Dry Diggings, and his store there, "nothing but an arbor of bushes," was doing a rushing business.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-25">John Robertson was an Englishman who reached California in 1847 in the Chilean ship <HI REND="italics">Confederacion</HI>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-26">Alfred A. Townsend came to California from South America in 1847.  He joined John Robertson in Monterey to establish the firm of Townsend &amp; Robertson, bakers and saloonkeepers.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>With the exception of a narrow strip of ground 100 yards in width close to the banks of the river and a small knoll about 100 yards farther from the river, the flat country was under water for a mile, though in no case more than two feet deep; and we had to go through the mud and water to reach the firm ground beyond it.  About 3 weeks before, when the river was up high, a returning miner in trying to pass through was drowned.<ANCHOR ID="n1-27">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-27">The early settlers of California had generally considered that floodwaters made crossing the San Joaquin River "impracticable even for horsemen" from early July to about mid-August, but the thirst for gold led the miners of 1848 to "brave all dangers."  By July 13 of that year two men had been drowned crossing the river.  The grave of one of them, William Whiteman, was well marked, and probably he was the person referred to by Swan.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>We were in hopes of getting through the water and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:camping the other side of it, but the ground was so soft and the cart was so heavy loaded that we only reached the knoll after a great deal of trouble and, not wanting to be bogged in the water at night, concluded to stop at the knoll that night and have the day before us to pass through the water, in the morning, so made our campfires and had supper and laid down to sleep.  And though the mosquitoes were around in swarms, I was so fatigued and used up, on account of [no] sleep the night before, that I slept like a top; and I believe all the mosquitoes on the San Joaquin could not have kept me awake that night, though I could hardly see out of my eyes in the morning from having been bitten so badly by the mosquitoes during the night; and my face was all swelled up.</p><P>We had an early breakfast and an early start, for the two-legged animals as well as the four-legged ones wanted to get out of that mosquito patch as quick as possible.  And fortunately we got through the water and on dry land with less trouble than we expected and were on our road for the crossing of the Mokelumne River shortly afterwards.  People at that time in California, especially newcomers, used to turn up their noses at the land in the San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys as well as other parts of the country, and if the grass did not suit them called it a barren country, and called the people who talked of stopping in it fools to stay in a country where there is little or no amusements and only beef and beans to eat and [all] most of the people thought of was to make money in the mines and go to some other country to enjoy it.</p><P>We crossed the Mokelumne that evening and camped and by sleeping near smoking fires managed to keep off part of the mosquitoes.  Next day we traveled to the Cosumnes River and crossed it and camped near Sheldon's house<ANCHOR ID="n1-28">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and stopped there all the next day, partly to recruit and to pick up intelligence from the mines, for we were in no hurry.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-28">Jared Sheldon, born in Underhill, Vermont, may have visited California by way of New Mexico as early as 1832.  His permanent arrival, however, appears to date from 1840.  A carpenter by trade, he worked at various places, including Sutter's Fort, John Marsh's ranch, and the Monterey Custom House.  In 1844 he was granted the Rancho Omochumnes, which he operated in partnership with William Daylor, an English seaman.  The ranch extended along the north bank of the Cosumnes River from the present U.S. Highway 99 east to beyond Sloughhouse.  The two ranchers built a gristmill--generally known to travelers of the gold rush period as "Daylor's Mill" or "Daly's Mill"--on the Cosumnes near the east boundary of the rancho.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:<P>During the day several parties passed our camp from the mines, some going down the country and some on their way to look for richer diggings.  Among them was Mr. William Pitts,<ANCHOR ID="n1-29">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: who left an American whaler in Monterey in 1844, who told us the Old Dry Diggings, about 3 months old, had the cream taken off already, and his party was going to look for better.  The fact was some of the early miners who were inexperienced in the business, it being a new business to them, thought they would find gold in such quantities that they could take it out by the ton and often left very rich diggings to look for richer and often found poorer.  But they opened up the country for the benefit of those that came after them but threw away their own time on moving.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-29">Evidently Henry F. Pitts, who on July 7 and 8, 1846, carried to San Francisco the news of the raising of the United States flag at Monterey.  In 1847 and 1848 he had an interest in a quicksilver mine near San Jose, and he reached Dry Creek on his way to the gold fields on June 15, 1848.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>After we arrived at Sheldon's we started again on the road for the mines and after a day's drive camped on a creek among the foothills, where we had wood, water, and good food for our animals.  I stopped with the party 2 days while Jack Robertson and another man rode over to the North Fork of the American River to see how things were there.  During his absence I sold one of my secondhand blankets for 2 1/2 ounces of gold dust.</p><P>On his return, finding that he was going to stop for a few days more in his present camp, I left on the following morning for the Old Dry Diggings near where Placerville is now.<ANCHOR ID="n1-30">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: Shortly after I left camp I met Lieutenant E. O. C. Ord, Sergeant C. Layton, and a party of 12 or 14 soldiers of Co. F, [3rd Artillery], on their way down the country from their hunt after deserters, but several more of his men left Lieutenant Ord on his way down the country and went back to the mines.  In fact, it was impossible to stop the men if they were inclined to desert, and about this time it was the custom to give them 2 months furlough to go to the mines to keep them from deserting.<ANCHOR ID="n1-31">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-30">The Old Dry Diggings proper were at the site of what is now Placerville, on Hangtown Creek.  There is some difference of opinion as to who first discovered them in the early summer of 1848.  James Marshall was in the area during June and later claimed the honor, but credit usually goes to the Cosumnes River rancher William Daylor and his companions, Perry McCoon and Jared Sheldon.  At about the same time, Charles M. Weber prospected along Weber Creek, which was also considered "on the Old Dry Diggin's" by the gold hunters who soon flocked there.  Two miles south of Placerville, Weber and a group of companions set up a trading post which became a supply point for the miners in the vicinity.  According to James H. Carson, the Old Dry Diggings were "the center of attraction for gold diggers" during June, July, and August, 1848.  "The population then there (exclusive of Indians) consisted of about three hundred--old pioneers, native Californians, deserters from the Army, Navy, and Colonel Stevenson's volunteers, were there mingled together, the happiest set of men on earth.  Every one had plenty of dust."</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-31">Each furloughed soldier carried with him a certificate giving the starting and terminal dates of the furlough.  These certificates are interesting documents, containing descriptions of their bearers.  For an example see the San Jose <HI REND="italics">Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm:<P>About 2 hours after I met Lieutenant Ord's party I fell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:in with Sergeant James H. Carson, Quartermaster Sergeant, and another private soldier on their way from Monterey to the mines.<ANCHOR ID="n1-32">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: I believe they were the first soldiers that got a furlough to go to the mines from old Co. F, U.S. 3rd Artillery.  I traveled with them that day, and we camped that night at Webers Creek on the Old Dry Diggings.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-32">Swan may have been mistaken in his belief that Carson was on his way to the mines from Monterey, since Carson in his own account of his adventures in the gold fields states that he left Monterey on May 10 and does not mention a return to Monterey during July.  James H. Carson, a native of Warren County, Virginia, joined the Army as a young man; he served against the Seminoles in Florida and came to California in 1847 as second sergeant of Co. F, 3rd Artillery, later being appointed quartermaster sergeant.  Contracting the gold fever in May, 1848, he went first to Mormon Island.  Disappointed with the returns there, he moved on to the Old Dry Diggings, which were his headquarters when Swan met him.  In August Carson moved on again, going southward and becoming the discoverer of several rich strikes.  Carson Creek and Carson Hill, near Angels Camp, are among the places which preserve his name.  "Carson, though fortunate in mining," said Swan in later years, "was too liberal to take care of the gold he made."  Carson's account of the gold excitement, <HI REND="italics">Recollections of the California Mines</HI>
087.sgm:<P>And after staking out our horses and making a campfire, Sergeant Carson told me he would show me how soldiers made their bread in Florida when camped out and fighting the Indians; so, mixing some flour and water together with a little salt added, in a tin pan, he made some small cakes and threw them on the coals and had them cooked in a short time afterwards, that is, burnt outside and raw dough in.  I had one taste and that was enough for me; but I thought if that was the way the soldiers made their bread in Florida I don't wonder so many died there, for it would kill more men than the bullets of the Seminole Indians.  Such bread would kill the Devil if that was possible, much less a soldier or sailor either.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER TWO</HEAD>
087.sgm:<P>Log Cabin Ravine and Dry Creek</p><P>THE NEXT DAY I PACKED UP AND RODE TO THE TOWN, as the spot where the trading tents were [was] named, and stopped at the brush shanty of Mr. Bernard MacKenzie<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and Mr. Murray<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: that day.  They had lived in Monterey before the mines broke out, and I was at home with them.  Next day I moved over to the Log Cabin Ravine.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">Bernard McKenzie, a carpenter and mason at Monterey from 1846 to 1848, was one of the first prospectors to reach the Old Dry Diggings.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">Probably Michael Murray, a resident of San Jose.  It is known that "Messrs Murray and Phalen, of San Jose&acute;," were at the Old Dry Diggings at that time.  Carson, <HI REND="italics">Recollections</HI>
087.sgm:, 6.  On July 8, 1848, Chester S. Lyman prospected in a ravine about four miles north of Weber's camp, "where an Irishman named [Michael] Murray obtained about $3000 in 3 or 4 days."  Chester S. Lyman, <HI REND="italics">Around the Horn to the Sandwich Islands and California</HI>
087.sgm:<P>When I left Carson the day before, I met an old acquaintance and bought an old blunt pick from him for a Mexican ounce gold coin.  I might have bought it for an ounce in gold [dust], but I did not give [it] a thought, though gold dust was often bought in the mines at that time for 4 or 8 dollars in silver, as they wanted it to gamble with.<ANCHOR ID="n2-3">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: But who cared about a few dollars then, when ounces was so plentiful?</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3">The price of gold dust varied greatly during 1848.  Generally, any person who was not an Indian could buy $16 worth of goods for one ounce of dust at most stores throughout California.  Storekeepers usually kept a separate set of weights for Indians, thus assuring that their dust brought less in trade.  When it came to selling dust for coin, however, the situation was entirely different.  There was no standard price.  Cases are recorded where miners, anxious to obtain specie for gambling, sold dust for as little as $1 an ounce, although even gamblers usually demanded $3 or $4 an ounce.  During the summer of 1848, a price of from $6 to $8 was common in the mines, but by November gold often brought from $10 to $12.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>The Log Cabin Ravine was named so on account of some men commencing to build one a short time before.  But after raising the walls and cutting out a place for a window but no door, they left without putting a roof on.  Three small ravines formed the head of it, and after running through a small flat for 200 yards, [it] then contracted and run for another 100 yards, and then descended by falls to a deep canyon below among high hills; but while I was there few people went down into it as it had the name of being well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:inhabited by grizzly bears, and the miners could get gold enough the first season in the Old Dry Diggings without going among the grizzlies after it.</p><P>Just below where the three ravines joined together was a pool of water and a little spring above it where we got our drinking water.  There was about 25 men camped there when I arrived--half a dozen soldiers belonging to Co. F, U.S. 3rd Artillery; 4 or 5 volunteers of Stevenson's regiment; the party of sailors and marines from the <HI REND="italics">Warren</HI>
087.sgm:, sloop of war; Peter Brennan and several men from Monterey; and two or three from Santa Cruz, Jack Scott<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: being one and a preacher named Dunlevy<ANCHOR ID="n2-5">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and his partner.<ANCHOR ID="n2-6">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: But the parson and his comrade slept at the town but worked in the Log Cabin Ravine.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">There were about ten persons named Scott in California prior to 1849, and it is sometimes difficult to determine which one is meant by any particular reference.  Swan's Jack Scott probably was the John Scott who came to California in 1845 as a member of the Grigsby-Ide party, lived for a time in the present Yolo County, and became a lieutenant in the California Battalion.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-5">James G. T. Dunleavy, a Methodist minister, came overland to California in 1846.  He was prominent in San Francisco affairs during 1847, but before the end of that year he moved to Santa Cruz, where he assisted in the inauguration of Protestant services and, in April, 1848, was proposed as alcalde.  On June 4, 1848, on his way to the mines from Santa Cruz, he spoke at a temperance meeting in San Jose.  One who attended described the gathering as "nothing great" and noted that while Dunleavy was a "decent speaker," his audience could not forget "how shockingly he beat his wife a short time since."  Lyman, <HI REND="italics">Around the Horn</HI>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-6">This partner was Adna A. Hecox, another overland immigrant of 1846 who soon became a resident of Santa Cruz.  A Methodist, he had been associated with Dunleavy in preaching some of the earliest Protestant sermons in California; and he went to the mines with him in June.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>Some of the soldiers and several of the sailors could sing good songs, and after quitting work for the evening and having supper, the time would be passed round our campfires in singing and telling yarns till it was time to go to bed.  Everyone seemed happy and full of hopes.  No quarreling or fighting took place, and though it is so many years ago, I can still think with pleasure of the happy evenings we passed in the Log Cabin Ravine.</p><P>Alexander Patterson,<ANCHOR ID="n2-7">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: who had been a sergeant in Colonel Stevenson's regiment of N.Y. Volunteers and who kept a saloon afterwards in San Francisco and died there in 1849 or '50, camping with 3 more volunteers and others one night near the spring at the head of the Log Cabin Ravine, was the first, with his party, to work it, for one of the party getting a good prospect, the four went to work and with their pans made 6 lbs. of gold by noon.  And as other men came along, several stopped; and when I arrived there it was quite a camp.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-7">John Alexander Patterson came to California in 1847 as a member of Co. D, New York Volunteers.  Despite, or perhaps because of, a connection with the infamous "Regulators" of San Francisco in 1849, he became fairly prominent in the city's politics, being elected a member of the Assembly in California's first legislature.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>Most of the gold seemed to be in the left bank and flat and seemed to pay all the way in, though the farther you went in there was more stripping to do.  And as in all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:coarse gold diggings, it was spotted, though as a general thing it all paid well; and though I did not make much myself, I might have made more if I had run about less.<ANCHOR ID="n2-8">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: And I saw others make a great deal of money there.  I sold another spare blanket for 2 1/2 ounces of gold dust and received 7 ounces more for my pound of glass beads from the Digger Indians, which was more than I expected, though a short time before they had sold for their weight in gold.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-8">On August 21, 1848, Chester S. Lyman and his mining companion decided to try digging in the Log Cabin Ravine, "where within the last week or two a great amount of gold has been taken from the southern bank of the stream, a flat being there formed between the foot of the hill &amp; the bed of the stream from 10 to 20 yards in width.  This has already been dug back nearly half way to the hill &amp; continues rich....One man averaged over $100 for 8 days."  Lyman, <HI REND="italics">Around the Horn</HI>
087.sgm:<P>There was great talk in our camp about bears at times.  One evening after supper two soldiers named Thomas Elliot<ANCHOR ID="n2-9">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and John Evans<ANCHOR ID="n2-10">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: went over to the trading posts to buy some provisions.  They were on their way back to camp with a large chunk of fresh beef when they fell in with a grizzly bear who, smelling the beef, made for them, when they dropped the beef and took to their heels and did not stop till they got to the trading posts, where they stopped all night and came back to camp next morning.  But the bear did not pursue them, prefering good fat beef for his supper to thin soldier, for they were both of Pharaoh's lean kind.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-9">Thomas Elliot (or Elliott) was a private in Co. F, 3rd Artillery.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-10">John Evans was another private in Co. F, 3rd Artillery.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>William McGline<ANCHOR ID="n2-11">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and another Irishman named Frank, a tall man, were camped about a mile from us; but though they camped together, each worked on his own hook.  Frank made a great deal of gold and threw it away on liquor and would be away on the spree for two or three days together.  One day while he was at a liquor tent drinking, with his buckskin bag [of] gold dust in his hand and untied at that, a looker-on told him to be more careful or he would lose his gold, at which he seized the bag at the bottom and scattered it all around on the ground outside the tent, saying he could get plenty more.  He had three lbs. in the purse at the time, and it was nearly all lost.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-11">William McGlone, as the name was properly spelled, was an Irish sailor who arrived in California in 1837 aboard the wrecked American whaling vessel, the <HI REND="italics">Commodore Rodgers</HI>
087.sgm:.  He brewed beer for "a very short space of time" but had to give it up as unprofitable, since the Californians preferred <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
087.sgm:; but his nickname, "Billy the Brewer," remained with him for life.  He tried his hand at a number of jobs, among others working in Isaac Graham's distillery and making soap for T. O. Larkin.  He was frequently in trouble with the California authorities for one reason or another.  He served with the American forces during the conquest of California, being wounded at the Battle of Natividad.  He went to the mines in 1848.  By 1857 he was working in a brick yard in Monterey.  Soon afterwards he went to Santa Barbara with a cart, horses, and his dog, "Boatswain."  He was drowned soon after reaching his destination, but, Swan assures us, "he sold his dog just before that happened."  <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
087.sgm:<P>Frank, after he left the Dry Diggings, went to the Middle Fork of the American River and made $7000 in a short time, and it lasted him 6 weeks, when he was dead broke <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:again.  I met him next year at Jamestown.  He had made another raise and spent it; and he kept steady till he had 30 ounces, and that went to keep the other company.</p><P>When Frank was on the spree, McGline, or Bill the Brewer as he used to be generally called in California, was left alone in camp.  They had bought a quarter of fresh beef between them, and after hanging [it] up to a tree near their camp, Frank went on the spree.  And a bear came along the first night and had his supper off the beef; and as McGline had no rifle, the bear ate his supper in peace.  The next evening the bear made his appearance again after more beef, and McGline, not liking such a companion near him, took his blankets and came down to Log Cabin Ravine to sleep.  And after that, whenever Frank was away, he would come to our camp to sleep.  It was not so easy to get ammunition at that time in California, as it was prohibited to be sold for fear of the native Californians creating a disturbance.</p><P>Among the soldiers was a young Irishman named Haggerty,<ANCHOR ID="n2-12">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and he was very lucky.  I saw him myself make 12 ounces with the pan one forenoon; and among other purchases he bought a large black mule, for he intended to start for the Middle Fork of the American River in a short time, for the diggings there were just beginning to be found out.  Feed was very scarce round about the camp and on the hills, and the horses would come around the camp and eat anything they could find--flapjacks, tea leaves.  They had to come down from the hills to the pool of water to drink.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-12">John K. Haggerty, a private in Co. F, 3rd Artillery, was in the mines on a furlough.  After leaving the Log Cabin Ravine, he went to Ford's Bar, on the Middle Fork of the American River, where in a short time he gathered 60 pounds of gold.  His companions thereafter referred to him as "the successful miner."  He died before 1880.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>One dark night and no moon, after talking till it was time to go to sleep and some of the miners had spread out their blankets and some laid down for the night--most of the conversation had been about bears and other animals--something was heard coming down through the bushes towards the water and afterwards towards the log cabin.  And as most people's thoughts were on bears and it was too <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:dark to see, of course everybody thought it was a bear; and what few arms there was being unloaded, there was a scattering.  Some got up trees; some stowed behind them and bushes; and some got over the walls of the log cabin into it; and I, being small, got through the window.  But while some nearly got jammed trying to get through and others getting over it, up came the animal, and it proved to be Haggerty's big black mule.  And if ever a mule got a cursing it did that night, and then there was a general laugh at their own fears.</p><P>Perhaps it was just as well there was no firearms ready that night, for in the dark they might not only have shot the 4-legged mule but some of the two-legged miners up in the trees and among the bushes.  Certainly none of the miners, whether citizens, soldiers, or sailors, distinguished themselves that night, though they made fun of it afterwards.  John Haggerty left a few days afterwards with a few more for the Middle Fork of the American River, taking his black mule with him.</p><P>A sailor--I don't know whether he was a man-of-wars-man or had belonged to a merchant vessel--having made considerable gold and thinking treating people to grog by the glass was rather a slow way to get rid of his dust, bought a barrel of liquor and put a tap in it, and it was free to the traveling public as well as the miners working round near him.  I don't recollect the name of the liberal shellback as he was not an acquaintance of mine, but I recollect the circumstances as well as that he was camped on a small knoll.</p><P>I might have done better myself in the mines had I opened a store, for though I had not brought money enough with me to do so, I could have got plenty of gold dust to have done so, for I was well acquainted with many of the miners; and they wished me to do it.  One offered me $1000 and others hundreds, and I might have had $5000 at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:command without paying one cent interest if I had been inclined to take it.  But like others, I was attracted by the glitter of the gold in the ravines and gulches and the wild, independent life of a gold miner, for at that time in California most of the miners had great hopes, though few of them were destined to be realized.</p><P>One day Peter Brennan and myself undertook to clean out a circular basin just below the Log Cabin Ravine and below a fall, though there was no water in it, expecting to get considerable gold, though unfortunately for ourselves we were so disappointed at our ill luck in searching the basin that we did not look above and below it, where the gold was.</p><P>Peter, a day or two after, borrowed my saddle to go to Sutter's Fort to see an old acquaintance of his.  There was no Sacramento City then.  He had a horse of his own, or borrowed one.  He went to the fort, got on the spree, and then went down to San Francisco and kept on the whiskey line so long that he had the delirium tremens and jumped into the bay in one of his fits and was drowned.  And that was the last of Peter Brennan, a good-hearted fellow and nobody's enemy but his own and a good bricklayer to boot.  And it was the last of my saddle, for I never saw or heard of it afterwards, but in those days we did not think so much of our losses as we do now, as they was so easily repaired.</p><P>One morning after breakfast I went up a short distance in one of the small ravines leading into the Log Cabin Ravine and stopped at the foot of [a] little fall in it, about 2 feet, and there was a small pothole in it, which went down about 18 inches.  I had my pan with me, though there was no water nearer than our camp.  I had a very long sheath knife with me, and I could just get my hand and part of my arm into the hole, and I commenced scraping with the point of my knife.  After scraping a while I began to see gold shine, and as I worked away at it I saw it was a small nugget, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:it held fast in a crevice of the hole.  But from what I saw of it, I thought I was bound to have a 5- or 6-ounce piece.  At last it gave way, and instead of being a large nugget, it was only a small one worth $26.  A small knob had kept it jammed.  I was quite disappointed, and though I spent that afternoon and all the next day round and near the pothole and worked with pick and crowbar, I only got about $5 more gold.</p><P>Mr. Dunlevy, the Santa Cruz preacher, never came to work on Sundays, stopping at or near the trading tents to keep his Sabbath.  One of the marines who had run away from the <HI REND="italics">Warren</HI>
087.sgm:, not having made much and being short of dust and intending to leave for other diggings, went to work on the preacher's claim one Sunday and, as he had a good one, took several ounces out of it that day but did not wait to hear what the preacher would say to him about picking his slate pocket of gold while absent, but put for parts unknown early next morning.  Though some people with loose morals may think this was a clean trick, most of the miners in the Log Cabin Ravine thought it was a dirty one.  But it was the means of bringing a preacher into our camp, though I don't recollect his saying any prayers for the benefit of the community.  The preacher and his partner moved shortly after this occurrence and camped near their claim, concluding to take the gold out of their own pockets in the slate without help from outsiders.</p><P>Another trick was played shortly afterwards by Lewis Belcher<ANCHOR ID="n2-13">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: William Roberts,<ANCHOR ID="n2-14">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: sailor who had left a Boston hide drogher before the war, worked in a small ravine in the hills a mile from our camp.  There was no water [to] wash there, only a little to drink.  There was very little dirt in the ravine, and the gold was in the crevices and coarse, but the crevices were as hard as the rock itself.  And as tools were scarce and blunt at that time, he spent a week before he had a fair chance to work at it, only making 2 ounces the next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:week.  The next week he made 100 ounces, not washing a pan of dirt but merely washing the gold before he put it into his bag.  One day he made 3 lbs.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-13">Lewis F. Belcher, a native of Orange County, New York, first appears in the California records as a member of the California Battalion in 1846-1847.  He was in Monterey during 1847 and went to the mines in 1848.  By about 1850 he had become a "large dealer" in cattle, and he acquired much property.  He was known as an "eccentric character," who hated his enemies--"whose names were legion"--with "an abiding and consuming hatred," but he was considered to be a man of enterprise and courage and a "true friend."  Stout, well-built, and handsome, he was sometimes called the "Big Eagle of Monterey."  He was a member of the Vigilance Committee of 1856 and was accused of wanting to use that body to get rid of one of his enemies.  He was shot to death while talking to a friend in the bar of the Washington Hotel in Monterey on the night of June 18, 1856.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-14">Little is known about William Roberts beyond what Swan tells here.  Perhaps this American seaman was the same William Roberts who served in Co. D, California Battalion, during the American conquest of California.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>There was plenty of ground for Belcher to work at it in the same ravine without working [?] Roberts's place, which it had taken him so much time and trouble to open, but then he would have had to work a few days before he could get much gold; and knowing Roberts would not be there on Sunday, Belcher took a lad with him and, under pretense of looking for horses, went to Roberts's claim and, as the tools were there, they took out 17 or 18 ounces.  If he had done it with some men, they would have shot him.  Most of the miners thought this was a dirty action, though no doubt Belcher thought he was doing a smart thing, for such tricks laid in his line, and he had no scruples on the subject.</p><P>I had worked a few days in the same ravine with Roberts, a few feet above him.  One day I made $45, but on an average I did not make over one ounce per day there; and as it was some distance from our camp, I quit it, for like other green miners I did not know when I was doing well.</p><P>In September the greater part of the miners quit the Log Cabin Ravine in search of richer diggings, and a few found better; but I believe the greater part did not.  A few days before I left the Log Cabin Ravine for the Cosumnes River, I went to see Capt. J. B. R. Cooper,<ANCHOR ID="n2-15">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: who was camped, with some Indians he had working for him, halfway between our camp and the town, or trading tents.  I had sailed with him in 1844, but though an old shipmate, he forgot to ask me to have a drink of grog.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-15">John Bautista Rogers Cooper, born on Alderney, one of the islands in the English Channel, first came to California in 1823 as master of the schooner <HI REND="italics">Rover</HI>
087.sgm: from Boston.  He established himself at Monterey in 1826 as a merchant and trader, soon marrying into the prominent Vallejo family.  In 1839 he became captain of the schooner <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
087.sgm:<P>About the end of September I left the Dry Diggings in company with William Roberts and a colored man named William Warren,<ANCHOR ID="n2-16">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: who had lived in Monterey previous to the discovery of the gold mines.  As I was the only one of the party who had horses, I did the packing part of the business.  We only went a short distance that night and camped.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-16">William Warren is said to have come to California as early as 1828.  He was with Ewing Young's trapping party during 1832 and 1833.  He died at San Jose in 1875, being known as "Uncle Billy."</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>The Old Dry Diggings or, rather, the Log Cabin Ravine, was the first mining camp I was in, and though it is 22 years ago, it is still fresh in my memory.  It was to me more like a pleasure party than anything else.  No one worked very hard; everyone had great hopes; and round our campfires at night we would pass pleasant evenings, singing and spinning yarns.  Not a quarrel took place, or fight, while I was camped there.  Neither was there many there who drank liquor to excess.  As it was my first mining experience, so likewise it was, taking it in all, the happiest, as I saw no blows struck while there.</p><P>The second day's journey brought us to Sheldon's ranch on the Cosumnes River, and we stopped there all the next day and then started the next morning for the Dry Creek, for fresh gold diggings which had been discovered a short time before near Hicks's<ANCHOR ID="n2-17">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: rancho, though Hicks at that time confined himself to looking out for the horses of the miners at so much a month per head.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-17">William Hicks, a native of Tennessee, came overland to California in 1843 with the Chiles-Walker party.  He trapped beaver and otter and served as a ranch overseer for Sutter and Sinclair until the outbreak of the Mexican War, when he joined the California Battalion.  In 1847, evidently, he established a ranch on or near Dry Creek.  Later he moved northward to the site of Hicksville, on the Cosumnes, where he died in 1884.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>There were several carts and wagons from Monterey, and I was acquainted with most of the people there--citizens, volunteers, and some of Uncle Sam's regulars who were absent without leave from their post in Monterey.  The diggings in the creek were shallow, and I averaged about one ounce per day during the week I stopped there, crevicing and blowing the dirt, but I did not work much in the bank.  It paid better, and after I left there was a great deal of gold taken out of the bank.  But like some others, I had something to take me to the coast and left the mines when I ought to have stopped; but like other people then, I was green at the mining business.</p><P>Pipes were scarce then at the Dry Creek, for there was only one among the 8 persons I was camped with, and each used to have his turn at smoking it, though just before I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:left there was some pipes arrived, so that each man could have a pipe to himself.</p><P>I let my 2 horses go, for they were in poor order, but left ropes on them.  But after the second day I missed them for 3 days and could not find them nowhere round.  But one afternoon, while crevicing on the creek, one of the party I was camped with called out to me that there was a man riding one of my horses; and another man cried out that there was another man riding the other, so I went to see about them.</p><P>It seems the parties riding them had been using them since I had missed them, without asking leave, though they knew they belonged to me and, on my claiming them, said they had bought them and refused to give them up.  But as one of the party who had my horses was always on the steal when he could get a chance and a notorious liar to boot, I did not believe him, as he had been accustomed to carry on the same game since he left a Boston hide drogher in 1844, being put ashore and into the calaboose for making too free with the ship's cargo.</p><P>After telling me they had bought the animals, on some of the miners coming up, they said they would give them up if I would pay them for finding them.  But finding that yarn would not go down with the miners or me, [they] wanted me to treat them and some of their acquaintances; but I declined, as I thought that, with stealing and lying, they did not deserve it.  And they had to give up the horses without; and they had a rather narrow chance of being lynched for their pains, for though a few glasses of liquor did not amount to much, it did not go down with the miners there to treat men who had stole their horses after [they] were found out.</p><P>They had some music on the Dry Creek and passed a merry time at night; but as the month of October set in it began to get cool after sundown.  One of the teams from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:Monterey having concluded to go to the Old Dry Diggings, I left with them, as I thought I would go to Sutter's Fort and sell my two horses there and go to [the] San Joaquin River and start a ferry there.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER THREE</HEAD>
087.sgm:<P>A LONG JOURNEY HOME</p><P>WE LEFT THE DRY CREEK IN THE AFTERNOON in the 1st week of October, and camped a few miles from it near some willows, where there was some water and feed for our animals.  There was other teams there as well, and we passed a pleasant evening round our campfires that night.  And next morning I left them on my way to Sutter's Fort, where I arrived in the afternoon.</p><P>Inside the fort the buildings were rented for stores and restaurants.  Here I heard that Capt. Cooper had passed a short time before with his Californian oxcart on his way to the ferry on the Sacramento River, so I concluded to follow him and gave up the notion of selling my horses there.  I went into Mr. Samuel Brannan's<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: store in the fort and bought some provisions, white sugar and tea, and had a large soldier's canteen I had with me filled with sherry wine.  Mr. Brannan was at San Francisco himself at the time; and I started for the ferry.<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">Samuel Brannan, Mormon elder and prominent San Franciscan from the time of his arrival in 1846, opened a store at Sutter's Fort on October 12, 1847.  Mellus &amp; Howard of San Francisco had an interest in the concern, which carried the name "C. C. Smith &amp; Company" after another partner, Charles Smith.  The store did a brisk business with the start of the rush to the mines, and on May 21, 1848, it was moved to larger quarters in a granary.  By then branches were flourishing at Mormon Island and Coloma.  Smith sold his interest to Brannan, and by July, 1848, the store was operating under the name of "S. Brannan &amp; Co."  The large receipts from this business helped make Brannan for a time the richest man in California.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">The ferry across the Sacramento had been established by John A. Sutter.  It was tended by a few faithful Indians who each night would bring the day's receipts to the fort, "after deduction for a few bottles of brandy."  The landing place on the east bank was at Sutter's <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
087.sgm:</p><P>When I arrived there, the ferryboat was on the opposite side of the river with Capt. Cooper's party, so I had to wait till it came back; and in the meantime I went into the board shanty, a few yards square, where they sold liquor and had a glass of wine.  It was the only house there and was the beginning of Sacramento City, for all the business was done <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:at the fort then.  While at the fort I met some men from the Stanislaus River who told me there was considerable gold there, but provisions were scarce and sugar was worth an ounce of gold the tablespoonful.</p><P>I had brought my pick and shovel along with me.  On the return of the ferryboat, I crossed to the opposite bank of the Sacramento River, but unluckily I forgot to ask the ferryman which way the California cart had gone, for there was two roads, one through the tules when the river was down and which was the shortest, and the other one when it was up but which was twice the distance but was dry and was the most beaten one.<ANCHOR ID="n3-3">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: I took my shovel from my pack animal and hid it in the bushes to save packing it, as I did not know but I might want it again if I came back that road, and took the long road, expecting to fall in with the California cart soon, as there were cart tracks.  But I traveled till dark and no cart to be seen, and I camped for the night and staked the horses, feed being plenty round.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-3">Before the days of improved roads, travelers wishing to go from the vicinity of the present Sacramento to the north shore of San Francisco Bay could, in the late summer and fall, set out a little south of west across the tule-covered plain of the western Sacramento Valley to Putah Creek, then on to near the present Vacaville, then westerly to Napa or Sonoma or more southerly to Benicia.  During winter and spring, however, most of the lower western Sacramento Valley became an impassable quagmire, and travelers had to turn northward along the natural levee on the west bank of the Sacramento River to the present Knights Landing, where a strip of high ground, built by an old channel of Cache Creek, formed a natural causeway leading westward to the base of the Coast Range.  This circuitous trail, somewhat euphemistically termed "the winter road," then led southward past the Wolfskill ranch to the Vacaville vicinity.  Even during the dry season this longer route was more heavily used than the so-called "summer road."</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>I did not trouble myself about making tea that night but made my supper of cold boiled ham and biscuit and washed it down with sherry wine and water with some sugar in it.  I had bought a large ham while on the Dry Creek and gave my $26 chunk of gold for it, though rather unwillingly, and had the half remaining boiled for the road before I left.  I slept pretty sound that night, and the mosquitoes did not trouble me, thanks to the sherry wine.</p><P>And next morning, after an early breakfast, I packed up and was on the road again, as I supposed for Benicia.  I met no one on the road that day to ask about it and saw no cart, which I thought strange; but I came in sight of the river again and traveled near it all day, but I did not think it was the Sacramento but some stream emptying into it, for I had never been in that part of California before.</p><P>At dusk I camped among some timber near Mr. Knight's rancho,<ANCHOR ID="n3-4">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: but I did not know it, as it was too dark to see the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:house, which was about a mile off.  During the night I heard some wildcats or catamounts screaming, but though they spoilt my sleep, they did not molest me or my horses.  Perhaps they thought they was too poor and could get plenty of fat colts on the rancho.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-4">William Knight's log cabin stood on an Indian mound near the junction of the lower Sycamore Slough with the Sacramento River at the present Knights Landing in Yolo County.  Knight, a native of Baltimore, Maryland, came to California from New Mexico in 1841.  A former mountaineer, he often absented himself from home on hunting trips--leaving his New Mexican wife at home to take in the neighbors' washing.  In 1845 he joined the company of foreign riflemen raised by John A. Sutter to assist Manuel Micheltorena, Mexican governor of California, during the latter's unsuccessful attempt to crush a revolt on the part of the native Californians.  Knight took a prominent part in the Bear Flag Revolt in 1846 and then went south as a member of Co. A of Fre&acute;mont's California Battalion.  Soon after Swan's visit, he moved to the Stanislaus River and founded Knights Ferry.  He died in November, 1849.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>A short time before daybreak I heard dogs barking, and I knew then I was not far from some house or camp; and after an early breakfast I saddled up and went to the house, but I was surprised when Mr. Knight told me I was as far from Benicia as I was after crossing the ferry, by the tule road, and told me I had better stop and rest my horses for a day.</p><P>I had known him years before in California when he used to pass through Monterey both before and after the United States flag was hoisted in California.  He had been down with Captain Sutter to Los Angeles in 1845 and with Fre&acute;mont in 1846, so I was at home with him, for old Californians, no matter from what country they came from, were kind and hospitable towards one another.  He offered me a horse in good order for my 2 poor ones, and like a fool [I] declined it, for I wanted to take them both back to Monterey.</p><P>Knight was about just getting better from the fever and ague and, speaking of his rancho, said it was good land, but it did not agree with his health or that of his family, as they were sick most of the time.  And he said he intended to sell it and buy a place near the coast, where there was no fever and ague.</p><P>A party of otter hunters from Santa Barbara had been up the coast north of San Francisco Bay otter hunting and had come up from the bay and been to Feather River, but though gold was plenty, they were nearly all sick with the fever and ague before they were there a week, and left on their way for the salt water.  One of the men who was pretty bad stopped at Mr. Knight's rancho on the [way] down in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:hopes of getting well and going back to the mines.  As I had a small bottle of quinine with me, I left half of it with him, but I heard afterwards the poor fellow died a few days after I left.<ANCHOR ID="n3-5">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-5">This reference to the otter hunters demonstrates the amazing accuracy of Swan's memory.  The party was headed by George Nidever, whose memoirs confirm most of the details recalled by Swan.  William Henry Ellison (ed.), <HI REND="italics">The Life and Adventures of George Nidever</HI>
087.sgm:<P>On the following morning after my arrival, I was on my road, and [I] camped between Wolfskill's and Vaca's ranchos.<ANCHOR ID="n3-6">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: I met several people on their road to the mines that day.  Next morning, on my arrival at Vaca's rancho, I bought some barley for my horses and found that Captain Cooper had stopped there the night before and had started in the morning with his cart for Sonoma.  In the afternoon, a few miles from Benicia, I met Mr. Samuel Brannan and another person on horseback, on their way to Sutter's Fort.  And after stopping me for a while to answer all his questions about the mines, he quite forgot to ask me to take a drink out of his pocket pistol, for I have no doubt he had one in his pocket at the time.  Some old pioneers would have done so.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-6">At this time John Reed Wolfskill was living on the Rancho Rio de los Putos which had been granted to his brother, William Wolfskill, in 1842.  John's small house, built of poles and mud, with a tule roof, stood on the south bank of Putah Creek, a short distance west of the present Winters.  Manuel Vaca and Juan Felipe Pen&tilde;a were grantees of Rancho Los Putos, south of the Wolfskill grant.  Vaca's adobe was near the present Vacaville.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>I arrived at Benicia that evening but had to stop a couple of days till I had a chance to cross [on] the ferry.  I was acquainted with Dr. R. Semple,<ANCHOR ID="n3-7">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: who started the first newspaper in California in Monterey [in] 1846 but who was then living in Benicia, and went to see him several times while there.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-7">Robert Baylor Semple was a Kentuckian who came overland to California in 1845.  Although trained as a printer and dentist, he at first took up ranching in the Sacramento Valley.  He was a leader of the Bear Flag Revolt and went to Monterey as a member of the California Battalion.  Soon leaving the military, he, with Walter Colton, founded California's first newspaper, <HI REND="italics">The Californian</HI>
087.sgm:<P>The ferryboat put me over one afternoon but, on account of the tide, did not land me at the regular landing place, and when I had got up the hill with my horses, there was so many trails that I did not know which to take and camped among the hills that night.  My horses were so poor they could scarcely carry themselves, much less me.  The small brown horse I was riding, in crossing a small ravine, stumbled and fell across it, and as there was not much room to turn himself, I lifted him bodily up and just put him on his legs.</p><P>Next morning I struck the San Pablo road and walked on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:foot, driving both horses ahead of me.  I stopped a short time at Gallivino Castro's rancho<ANCHOR ID="n3-8">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: to get some barley for my horses and to buy some food for myself, as I had run out.  There was no men there.  I had no specie with me, and the women would not take gold dust, as they said they did not know whether it was good or not; and I run the risk of getting nothing for myself or horses either, but I got one dollar and fifty cents from them for a pair of long worsted stockings, and with that I received barley for my horses, dinner for myself, and a lot of apples as well.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-8">Probably Alvino Castro, one of the eleven children of the then deceased Francisco Mari&acute;a Castro, who had been granted the Rancho San Pablo in 1823.  The main ranch house, now destroyed, stood on San Pablo Avenue in El Cerrito, just north of the boundary between Alameda and Contra Costa Countries.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>I suppose some people in California would feel inclined to doubt my story, though a true one.  I don't suppose at the present time in California there is any danger of people across the bay from San Francisco refusing gold dust for barley, a dinner, and some fruit.</p><P>I arrived at the Mission of San Jose that evening, and after unsaddling my horses, while I was talking to Daniel Williamson<ANCHOR ID="n3-9">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: a young Scotchman, after getting feed for my horses, some pigs eat up the apples I had bought from Castro's rancho but fortunately did no more damage to the rest of my things.  I had known Williamson previously in Monterey, before the discovery of the gold mines.  He had been twice in the mines and done well, but died, I believe, next year from consumption.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-9">Bancroft believes that Daniel Williamson was the same person as David Williamson, who arrived in California in 1846 and served in Co. F, California Battalion.  Except for this brief mention by Swan, almost nothing is known about him.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>I sold a pair of new pants that evening in the mission to a man for $7 in cash, which I expected would pay my expenses to Monterey without selling gold dust in small quantities, which is a great loss to the seller.  I met several soldiers belonging to Co. F, U.S. 3rd Artillery, at or near the Mission of San Jose that evening and next morning on the road to the Pueblo, all absent without leave from their posts and on their way to the diggings.  I had met one on Mr. Knight's rancho, named Loyd,<ANCHOR ID="n3-10">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: who had given me a small package of gold dust for an acquaintance of his in Monterey, which I delivered when I arrived there.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-10">Horace Lloyd, Co. F, 3rd Artillery.</NOTE>
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087.sgm:<P>Next morning after breakfast I left with my two frames of horses for the Pueblo of San Jose and arrived before noon and intended, after my animals had a good feed of barley and I had my dinner, to go to Gilroy's rancho of San Isidro or part of the way that night; but there happened to be a New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Herald</HI>
087.sgm: in the house I was stopping at, of a late date, and I had not seen one for a long time before.  And as I am partial to reading, I spent so much time reading it that it was too late to start that afternoon with the expectation of getting far that night, so I gave up the notion and stopped in San Jose till morning; but what [with] feed for the animals and my own expenses for meals and some bottled ale and porter, it took nearly all my specie, though it made but little difference to me, as I could get what I wanted without money, as I was well acquainted and my credit was good, and [I] could get plenty of cash if I wanted it by merely asking for it.</p><P>I left San Jose in the morning after breakfast for Gilroy's rancho on foot, driving my horses before me.  One of them had my packsaddle and blanket, and the small one my saddle.  The horses were so weak that when they got off the road among the dry mustard stalks it would throw them down.</p><P>About sundown, as I was striking off the road for Gilroy's rancho, a couple of miles away, I met Dr. A. S. Taylor<ANCHOR ID="n3-11">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: and others with him, with a heavily loaded California cart, on their road to the gold mines.  It had been fitted out by Mr. James Watson,<ANCHOR ID="n3-12">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: a storekeeper in Monterey; and his eldest son, Mr. Francis Watson, who was going to the mines with [it], had gone to San Isidro to pass the night at Cantin Ortega's<ANCHOR ID="n3-13">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: house, the cart going on farther with the rest of the party to camp out where there was good feed for the animals.  The Doctor wanted me to stop with them and told me they had plenty of bottled porter and other things, but I declined and went on to the rancho, where I stopped that night.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-11">Alexander S. Taylor, a noative of South Carolina, had reached California by way of China in September, 1848.  Although generally called "Dr. Taylor," he is not known to have practiced medicine or to have possessed any higher collegiate degrees.  He had an unbounded enthusiasm for the Indians and history of California, and he later wrote voluminously on these and other subjects.  Unfortunately, only a few of his works have stood the tests of scholarship and time.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-12">James Watson was one of California's oldest Anglo-Sax&omacr;n pioneers, having arrived about 1824 aboard a whaler.  With his usual superior air, Sir George Simpson noted in 1842 that Watson was a Londoner whose father had "been in the public line," keeping "the Noah's Hark,'tween the Globe Stairs, and the 'orse Ferry."  Despite a lack of education, Watson was industrious and honest, and he gained wealth as one of Monterey's most prominent merchants.  He later turned to ranching, only to be wiped out by the drought of 1863.  His son, Francis, was about eighteen years old in 1848.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-13">Quinti&acute;n Ortega was the son of Ignacio Ortega, original grantee of Rancho San Isidro.  In later years the ranch was divided between Quinti&acute;n and his brother-in-law, John Gilroy.  Quinti&acute;n's house was about 50 yards from Gilroy's, and the boundary line dividing the ranch ran between the two dwellings.</NOTE>
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087.sgm:<P>Next morning I was on the road for the Mission of San Juan.  When I arrived near the Pajaro River the horses made a rush for it, and the pack horse went so far in that he got stuck in the mud, and I could not get him out.  And he was too weak to get out himself, and the other horse was too weak to pull him out.  And as I had no one to help me, I had to take off the packsaddle and put it on the other horse with the rest of the things and leave the pack horse sticking in the mud of the Pajaro River, though I suppose he got out himself or someone  else took him out, as I left word in San Juan about it, though I never seen or heard of the horse afterwards.</p><P>On my arrival in San Juan I stopped at the house of Mr. Patrick Breen<ANCHOR ID="n3-14">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: that night, but he could scarcely believe that I had only made 3 lbs. of gold in the mines, as he said he had made 25 lbs. in one month, with one of his boys; but in gold digging there is a great deal of chance work, and it is not always the case that those who do most work get most gold.  In fact, it is often the reverse.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-14">Patrick Breen was an Irishman who came overland to California with the Donner party.  He and his large family settled at San Juan Bautista early in 1848.  The Jose&acute; Castro adobe, to which Breen acquired title on February 7, 1849, still stands on the plaza.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>Soon after I arrived there Patrick Cox,<ANCHOR ID="n3-15">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm: a soldier belonging to Co. F, U.S. 3rd Artillery, arrived, having left Monterey the night before, taking French leave from his company, i.e., absent without leave from his post.  Cox had been a tailor before he joined the U.S. service, and he was on his road for the gold mines to make his pile.  I don't know whether he did so or not, but I believe he died there or in some other part of California years ago, but I never saw him again after I left the Mission of San Juan.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-15">Patrick Cox appears on the Co. F muster roll as a private.  Beyond Swan's brief remarks, virtually nothing is known about him.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>Next morning after breakfast I left San Juan for the Salinas River, but I traveled slow, as my horse would stop every now and then to take a bite along the road, and I wished to get him to Monterey if I could.  But it was sundown before I reached Mr. Thomas White's house on the Salinas River, where I stopped that night, though he was not there himself, but his family was.  Thomas White, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:Thomas Blanco as the Californians called him, had come to California in 1840 in the United States sloop of war <HI REND="italics">St. Louis</HI>
087.sgm: and deserted from her, went into the redwoods near the Pajaro River and worked there, married a California girl and was living on the Salinas River when the mines broke out, and died, I believe, in 1850.<ANCHOR ID="n3-16">*</ANCHOR>
087.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-16">Toma&acute;s Blanco, as Tom White was called by the Spanish-speaking Californians, was granted a small tract of land on the Salinas River on August 27, 1844; and the place became known as Blanco Crossing, or Blanco.  The name is perpetuated by the railroad station, Blanco, about four miles west of Salinas.</NOTE>
087.sgm:<P>It took me till 2 p.m. next day to reach Monterey, for I could buy no feed for the horse at Blanco's, and I had to stop on the road to let the horse feed.  When I arrived in Monterey one of the soldiers offered me $16 for the horse, poor as he was.  And I sold him, and he took him up to the fort, and though he was pretty weak for a while, plenty of Uncle Sam's hay and barley put him in good order, and when he went on furlough next spring to the mines, he took the horse with him and sold him there for ten ounces of gold--not a bad speculation, as it cost nothing to feed the horse while in Monterey.</p><P>I had brought the pick back with me that I had bought in the Dry Diggings for an ounce, and picks being scarce and high, I sold it for $5 to a man going to the mines and sold the gold dust I had brought down with me for ten dollars the ounce.  About three months afterwards it was worth $16 per ounce, but the loss of a few dollars or hundreds were nothing in [the] early days of gold mining in California, and people thought very little about them.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER FOUR</HEAD>
087.sgm:<P>BACKWARD GLANCES</p><P>IT MAY BE ASKED BY READERS OF THIS NARRATIVE why the horses became so poor among the mountains.  Grass is naturally scarcer amongst timber, and most of the miners had their horses tied with a rope or lariat for fear of their straying off and losing them, shifting them several times in the course of the day.  But as the feed was scant, the animals did not thrive; and there was no one at that time in the Old Dry Diggings [who] made a business of taking charge of the miners' horses for pay, though shortly afterwards there was some started in that line of business.</p><P>It was amusing to hear people's opinions of placers and gold mining.  However, none could laugh much at others, as we were all pretty much on a par so far as mining experience was concerned, though a man that had been a month or two in the mines was considered an experienced miner and was often looked on as somewhat of an oracle.  Sometimes the old miners, as they called themselves, to make fun of some newcomer on his asking their advice, would point out some place where they thought there was no gold as a likely place for him to work, of course expecting he would give it up and try somewhere else in a short time.  But in some cases the newcomer would strike better diggings than the old hands and would have not only the gold <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:dust but the laugh in their favor.</p><P>Most of the mining done in the Old Dry Diggings when I was there was done with the pan and crevicing.  There was very few rockers there.  I saw one at work soon after I got there, and it took 3 men to work it, one to put in the dirt, one to rock it, and one to pour the water in the rocker with a tin gold pan, for they had no dipper.  The pay dirt was hauled from some of the small ravines with an oxcart to the pool of water where the rocker stood, near the trading posts.</p><P>One of the soldiers who had left Co. F, U.S. Artillery, while we were sitting round our campfire one evening, said his idea of a placer, before he came to the mines, had been a large flat piece of ground with stones on it, and all he had to do was to turn over the stones and pick up the gold that was under them.  Some said that after next winter's rain there would be plenty more gold washed into the ravines that had been worked out, and some thought they would find out the fountainhead and take it out by the ton.  But then, allowance must be made for people making mistakes about a business they were so little acquainted with.</p><P>A great many miners the first year thought the mines were too cold to winter in and went down to the coast to pass the winter and relieve themselves of their heavy weight in gold dust; and most of them were not long in doing so, but then, they had great hopes of the future and the big piles they were going to make.  Some few did afterwards make a great deal of money, but very few kept it, more's the pity.  But gold in the early days of California mining seemed to be oiled, as it used to slip through the fingers so easily, while nowadays it seems to have birdlime or cobbler's wax rubbed on it, as those that possess it now seem to keep such a tight grip on it.</p><P>While going to the mines in the mountains, I was struck with the resemblance to the mountains in Mexico I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
087.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
087.sgm:traveled through in going from Mazatlan to Durango in 1840 and thought there ought to be gold placers there as well as in the Sierra Nevada in California.  I was amused at seeing some of the machines made in New York City and sold to some of the gold seekers who came out in 1849 in the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
087.sgm:, the first steamer that arrived of the line between San Francisco and Panama.  Some of them were boxes about 3 feet long and half that [in] width, and iron grating or sieve on the top, and a drawer in the bottom.  The dirt was to be thrown on the grating and water on top of it, but both dirt, gold, and most of the water went into the drawer and choked it up.</p><P>I believe none of these fancy gold machines went to the mines, though a lot of them came to California by the first steamer.  No doubt the inventor made a good speculation out of it, as I suppose they sold well to the green gold seekers who were leaving New York to come to California, though I believe none of them were green enough to take them to the mines with them after they arrived in California.  The New York gold-saving machines were a great invention, but unfortunately they labored under the disadvantage of saving the dirt as well as the gold; and the miners only wanted the latter metal and were down on the machines, as they could get plenty of dirt in New York without having to come to California after it.</p><P>But few of the miners who were camped with me in the Log Cabin Ravine or going to it are now living.  Some went to the Atlantic States or Europe, and the bones of many of them are now bleaching among the gulches and ravines of the Sierra Nevada.</p><P>In the above narrative I have given an account of transactions as they passed before me.  California scenery has been so often described by people better qualified than myself to do so, that I have said nothing about it.  I have wrote the above from memory, as I kept no notes.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:<P>If the above is not suited to the taste of grammarians, from the badness of the grammar, they must make allowance for the fact that I left school when little over eleven years of age and have studied grammar but little since and when a boy at sea.  I used to often get a rope's ending for reading books when I could get an opportunity and sometimes neglecting other work to do so.</p><P>In the early days of California people were not valued altogether, as they are now, for the broad lands, number of cattle, or gold they possessed.  Something was then allowed to their character as men, but now everything is swallowed up in the almighty dollar; and instead of people asking about a person's character, they ask him how much money he has got.  How he acquired it don't seem to trouble the inquirer.</p></DIV>
087.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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087.sgm:<P>THERE ARE 400 COPIES OF THIS BOOK,<LB>DESIGNED AND PRINTED BY TAYLOR&amp; TAYLOR<LB>FOR THE BOOK CLUB OF CALIFORNIA.<LB>THE TYPE USED THROUGHOUT,<LB>MONOTYPE BULMER, IS A TRANSITIONAL FACE<LB>BASED ON LATE 18TH CENTURYTYPE DESIGNS<LB>AND HAS BEEN SET BY MACKENZIE &amp; HARRIS, INC.<LB>THE BINDING HAS BEEN EXECUTED BY<LB>THE SCHUBERTH BOOKBINDERY<LB>SAN FRANCISCO: NOVEMBER 1960</p></BACK>
088.sgm:<!DOCTYPE tei2 public "-//Library of Congress - Historical Collections (American Memory)//DTD ammem.dtd//EN" [<!entity % images system "088.ent"> %images;]><TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-088</TITLE>
088.sgm:<TITLE>Early days in California; scenes and events of the '50s as I remember them.  By Mrs. Lee Whipple-Haslam: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
088.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
088.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
088.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
088.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
088.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
088.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
088.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>25-12132</LCCN>
088.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
088.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 860199</COPYRIGHT>
088.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
088.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
088.sgm:<P>EARLY DAYS<LB><HI REND="italics">in</HI>
088.sgm: California<LB><HI REND="italics">Scenes and Events of the '50s<LB>as I Remember Them</HI>
088.sgm:<LB>Written by<LB>Mrs. Lee Whipple-Haslam<LB>Jamestown, California</P>
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088.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Dedication</HEAD>
088.sgm:<P>To the Pioneer Auxiliary I dedicate this history of one decade, from 1850--1860, a history unique in its class, representing an epoch that to the new generations is one of mystery and doubt.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The noble women of the Pioneer Auxiliary are placing an indelible stamp on the sands of time, by the achievement of noble aspirations, and the very best of human endeavor.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Written in 1922 and 1923 by<LB>MRS. LEE WHIPPLE-HASLAM.</P>
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088.sgm:<illus entity="a088-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PHOTOGRAPH OF THE AUTHOR AND TWO FRIENDS<LB> This picture will exemplify a lonely childhood. My playmates in 1854 and friends until their death occurred more than half a century later.  (Photo taken in 1908).</P>
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088.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Early Days in California</HEAD>
088.sgm:<P>This history is not creative, but is a laying up of facts, gathered from the storehouse of memory.  We all hear the echoing footsteps of the past years.  Conditions were the same in all the counties producing placer gold in quantities.  From Mariposa to the Nevada State Line, or what is known as the Mother Lode counties, at the time I write of was unsurveyed territory, of a vast uncharted domain.  All contained the same human characteristics--"The element of Love and Hate."  The same wonders, terrors, pleasures and dangers were encountered every day.  The same constant fight for supremacy with human microbes and parasites that were a living danger and menace to safe and sane living.  Each county was a unit of an unparalleled union of noble men and women who were the vanguards of civilization.</P>
088.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Preface</HEAD>
088.sgm:<P>This is an age of criticism, and almost everybody is infected with the virus of criticism.  And while the reader criticises the many mistakes and imperfections found in the annals I now write, "Remember!  I lived through the tumultuous, turbulent, maniacal days," unparalleled by time or place.  Remember, that the force of habit is sometimes confusing.  As my educational advantages were limited, and while my writing may be comprehensive, there will be much to criticise, for I cannot conform with the new age of education.  All histories I have ever read of early days are mostly exaggerated bunk, and are more often taken for their apparent value than for their intrinsic worth.  During a long span of life, of more than three quarters of a century, I have seen life from many lopsided angles, and have learned many lessons not taught by books.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I know, notwithstanding the romantic chronicles written by versatile writers, nothing authentic can be written of the detail of the daily life, and the hopes and aspirations that inspired heroism in the Early Day Pioneer.  "They write what they know not of."  They never saw him standing by his sluice boxes washing gold from the clay and gravel, and at night climb from the pit, wet cold and hungry, and light a fire to warm cold beans and coffee, and dry his brogan boots or Mongolian sox.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Many were known only by a sobriquet.  They lived in Tuolumne for a time.  They worked hard and lived a rough life.  They filled their appointed days and sojourn in Tuolumne with honor.  They have passed from the knowledge of men, as ordained, replaced by a new generation.  Let us cherish the names and memory of men, we certainly know, were the vanguard of civilization, and give to the native daughters and sons the best history on the earth.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I was reading an extract from an Oakland paper sent me a few days ago.  It spoke of the early day life as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>The only shoes on the market for women and children were heavy, unlined copper-toed lace shoes that acted on the feet like a hot foot bath during warm weather.  But in '54 one could buy more comfortable shoes.  In early days soap was scarce and almost prohibitive in price.  The Indians taught my mother how to use soap root.  It was a good substitute for soap, and had great cleansing properties.  Our clothes were washed and patched until one could not tell the original color or texture of a garment.  "Ah, me!"  I smile when I see the present generation trying to imitate the primitive '49 dress.  They are just about as near the mark as are the histories one reads.  But when large freight teams improved the transportation facilities from Stockton and Sacramento to the mines, and the quantity and quality of dry goods met the demand, conditions changed.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Men did not have hip pockets or low-necked, short-sleeved, silk sport shirts, or universally shave as they do now.  Some shaved, while others did not.  Women wore skirts to their insteps, and no hoops.  Dresses were not abbreviated above; and below.  They wore their hair in smooth bands or braids.  With these exceptions I have mentioned, the decent class of men and women dressed very much the same as the working housewife, and workman, dress today.  Naturally there was no comparison in the texture, color, or quality of the goods.  Shoes were seldom or never worn by men,--always high top boots.  Brogans contained tacks in the soles for durability.  Mongolian sox were squares of cloth just large enough to wrap around the foot after folding three square, made from shirt tails or flour sacks.  The men usually wore suspenders and the women sunbonnets.</P>
088.sgm:<P>As for language, they spoke plain U.S., the very same that George Washington spoke when he offered his life so freely for the liberty of America, and that Abraham Lincoln spoke when he gave his heart's blood for freedom.  But who are the slaves today?  "And who and what are the masters?"  In the olden days crime was confined to a small section of California; now it is ubiquitous.  And life is so full of pitfalls and temptations.  I will admit a few from the slave states that were associated more or less with Negroes used, to an extent, the Negroes' vernacular.  People in those days lived on a dirt floor.  I did.  They considered they were fortunate in having a roof that did not leak.  And it was living the years on a dirt floor with those noble-hearted people that made me familiar with the details of early life, and from this view point, although humble, I have written this history.</P>
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088.sgm:<HEAD>Introductory Chapter</HEAD>
088.sgm:<P>Early Days from 1852 to 1860</P>
088.sgm:<P>Reader, it is difficult to draw a pen picture of scenes and conditions, and life, as it was lived during the gold excitement in California, from 1849 to 1860.  It has been said that "life is a flame that burns quickly."  If I had some of the fire of my illustrious kinsman, Mark Twain, I might write these annals in an authentic, pleasing manner that would cast a luster on my name, and my epitaph be written in letters that would never fade.  I will try to give an authentic illustration of pioneer days as only those can who by their indomitable courage and their equally indomitable will conquered the dangers of land and sea.  No faint cloud of warning marred the serenity of the sky of life, or gave warning of the suffering, privations and dangers to be encountered, and that life was often the toll to be exacted from those who reaped the golden harvest in California.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Most of the pioneers were middle-aged.  Some were mere youths who left the farm and plow to be pitch-forked into the conditions and evils of a life that they did not know.  Some of these were saved from the wages of sin by the early teaching of a good mother.  People were not judged by the clothes they wore.  There were only two class distinctions in those days.  Integrity, honesty and industry were the passwords to fellowship with the law-abiding class--an inevitable consequence of an assembly of men from every state in the Union; from every civilized nation; from the Orient and the Occident.  California invited all people to her harvest of gold.  And from all over the world they came.  Many were characteristically good.  Others were swept down by the cross-currents of association and environment, following the lines of least resistance, along the broad road, through grades of degredation and sin, to an untimely death.  Many were diamonds in the raw, but had the kindly instincts that go to the making of good men.  Inadequately clothed, housed and fed, they made trails that others could follow and live in safety.  But even in those early days life was not a long sad wail of sorrow, for common people can extract pleasure out of common things.  Those old free, careless days were--and are--without parallel.  I lived through those days, and, as the old timer would say, "I'm dog-on glad of it."</P>
088.sgm:<P>Many, after long days of suffering--and death--were rolled in a blanket and laid to rest, with nothing more solemn than the lifting of hats.  They left no record.  And only the wind sighing a requiem through the trees is left of their earthly heritage.  Even at this late day remnants of their insignia, or craft (shovels, picks and pans) may be found.  For time, the destroyer of all things earthly, has swept aside "with the Pioneer his tradition, his trails and landmarks" into oblivion.  A few lived their allotted span of life, where they dug for gold; others went glimmering with things that were, and a very few live to tell the tale.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Man cannot be the arbitrator of his life.  While the cogs of his destiny turn, he looks to an intelligent Creator and Ruler of the Universe for a rest and peace not given by the transient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>The only tangible proof left by the miners of their sojourn and work in Tuolumne county is the vast field of limestone boulders to be seen between Sonora and Columbia, east of Table Mountain.  At the junction of the roads the Native Daughters have placed a memorial to the early Pioneers.  As a child I knew many of the miners, and loved the hands that lifted those vast boulders from their beds of clay.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh, where are they?  Those Pioneers.<LB>In dreams I see them still.<LB>They are at rest!  No more they toil!<LB>They await the last glad morn,<LB>To hear the Master's voice repeat<LB>Thy work hath been well done.<LB>They are calling me; I know their voice,<LB>And I soon must answer their hail;<LB>I walked with them long years ago<LB>Along the sunset trail.<LB></HI>
088.sgm:<P>Crossing the Plains</P>
088.sgm:<P>In retrospection I recall the hot sand and alkali deserts, deprived of all the comforts, and most of the necessities, of life.  I also recall the heroes whose life trail crossed my own "when I was a child," with whose comradeship I went out to serve the needs of my generation as the vanguards of civilization.</P>
088.sgm:<P>There were no battlefields, but over every mile of the long trail stalked the shadow of death.  And what was waiting to greet us in California?  A wilderness marked by faint trails of wild Indian feet (wilder than wild animals that would tear with bloody claws) and slow, agonizing death caused by the poison fangs of rattlesnakes who were in countless numbers.</P>
088.sgm:<P>But, filled with the spirit of adventure, the pioneers entered that phase of human endeavor to conquer the wilderness and, as ordained by God, to civilize the Pacific slope.  California in those days when "beans alone were a dollar a plate," was a haven of safety.  For all the plains Indians had declared war, and the trail we traveled in mental and physical agony was a bloody mark, for thousands of miles through an uncharted, unsurveyed domain that was destined to bloom as the Garden of Eden.  And the trail (for it was nothing more) has been swept like the early Pioneer into the vanishing mists of oblivion.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Reader, I have tried to give you an unvarnished pen picture of scenes and conditions of the Mother Lode counties in the early days.  I have lived, thank God, to see it today.  Most all the Pioneers in those early days knew nothing about practical placer mining, had never seen gold in its raw, or unrefined, natural state.  They could not have told the difference between a sluice box and a hog trough.  The rocker and tail race, as introduced by the Mexicans, for several reasons was the most popular mode for washing pay gravel.  Often where good pay gravel was found there was a scarcity of water; but it was mine or no eats.</P>
088.sgm:<P>A small leaf of history of the unknown mysteries of a great uncharted domain ten years before the stage line or pony express.  Crossing the hot, sandy alkali deserts in the warm days of August wilts the enthusiasm.  As <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>We passed countless skeletons of cattle of all kinds, bleached by the hot sun.  This road, followed by the early pioneers, through deserts and mountains of eternal snow, is a land of mystery, suffering and death that never has--and never will be--recorded or known.  The wrecks of broken wagons, wagon chains, or yokes, and the countless bleached bones of suffering cattle is the only history they left on record for future generations to read.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I have been asked many times why it was always called "crossing the plains."  I will tell you: After crossing the Missouri river with its mud, stumps and logs, there were no mountains.  Kansas and Nebraska, for seven or eight hundred miles presented a prairie (the plains) covered with grass and flowers, and very little timber.  It was almost as level as a floor.  But with all these advantages, we did not crowd our cattle, as so many did, causing so much suffering and death, owing to their inability to surmount the difficulty of crossing alkali deserts and steep, rocky mountains with poor and worn out teams.  We had ample proof.  Some trains would pass us, under whip and spur, even then in a land of plenty, their teams were poor and tired.  Often we passed the bleaching bones of the poor, overworked starving cattle, the people forced to walk and sometimes abandon their wagons.</P>
088.sgm:<P>CROSSING THE PLAINS IN 1852</P>
088.sgm:<P>In the year 1850, my father, Franklin Summers, left Missouri and came around the Horn to California.  He mined successfully at Shaws Flat, near Sonora.  In 1852 he again braved the danger of a trip around the Horn to bring my mother and me across the plains to California.  He had gold--Shaws Flat gold--and this he used in buying the best equipment possible, and also, as a lubricator, to organize a large train.  The larger the train, the better, to guard against Indians and all other unknown danger.  A strong wagon, well covered, and three yoke of gentle strong young oxen was considered necessary, a good cow, and a saddle horse for each wagon.  After seeing fathers outfit, the neighborhood became enthused with a desire to emigrate to the land of gold.  To secure a wagon at that time and place was a factor requiring money and effort, Missouri being a new state--everything was home production.  Hickory was used as a substitute for iron; and the only iron used was for linch pins and king bolts for an up-to-date wagon.  And many of these wagons crossed the plains.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Father was fortunate in being able <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>Our friends and neighbors sold their farms and bought the best outfits they could, and early in May eighteen or twenty wagons, representing so many families (and eighteen or twenty single men--Lum Reed was the single man attached to our wagon).  After a tearful and heartbreaking parting with loved ones at home, we crossed the Missouri river on a large flatboat, and we were on our way.</P>
088.sgm:<P>We were all happy; every day presented new scenes; the woods were full of game (wild turkeys, deer, prairie hens), and strawberries, and every day was like a picnic.  We knew that all precautionary measures for safety and comfort had been taken, our cattle were fresh, and for a month all was well.  The first thing that occurred to cloud the horizon of contentment was the electric storm..</P>
088.sgm:<P>The first real thrill of danger we encountered was caused by an electric storm.  The magnitude of such storms are unknown in California.  Warm, sultry weather is a precedent, and black clouds, usually in the west, warned us.  The heaviest thunder one can imagine, and chain lightning illuminating the horizon, and sometimes with appalling results,--for man in his arrogant pride of strength must bow with weak knees and faltering tongue and heart palpitating with fear to the higher laws of nature; a power to save and also to destroy.  And then came the rain.  From the rain we were protected by our water proof wagon covers.  We encountered many storms later on, hail and snow, before reaching our destination.</P>
088.sgm:<P>So far, the Indians, whose territory we had crossed, were friendly.  But our train men concluded an ounce of precaution was worth a pound of negligence, so they had night guards to protect the cattle and train against surprise.  They feared the cupidity of the Indians.  I cannot remember the names or location of the tribes.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Very often we traveled for weeks not knowing the names of the rivers we crossed, or the Indians we passed.  Reader, it was like traveling over the great domains of a lost world.</P>
088.sgm:<P>After a hard day of trials and tribulations we camped near an Indian village.  I had admired greatly the painted robes and beaded moccasins the Indians had for trade.  At this village they seemed more beautiful than any I had seen.  I could not conquer the desire to possess a pair of them.  I did a thing that caused me great mental trouble and physical anguish; I grabbed a pair and started for camp.  An old squaw howled a long vicious wail, and about forty Indians were after me.  Oh, dear Lord, how I ran.  Just before I reached the wagon father met me.  He gave back the moccasins to the squaws--and while the spanking act was played, with all the train and about a hundred Indians as spectators (a full house), some kind of rotary whilrimagig obscured my sight.  It revolved at a rapid rate and on its revolving face were stars, moccasins and Indians at the rate of a million a minute.  And when father had finished, I had lost all admiration and love for the beautiful things of this world and the world to come.  After climbing into the wagon, I believe I suffered a mental lapse; I know I cried myself to sleep.  I could not endure the humiliation; it was the first spanking I had ever had.  It was a lesson in humility I never forgot, and while I slept father traded for the moccasins.  I did not know this until after we reached California.  I had paid the price of pride and vanity.</P>
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088.sgm:<P>It has been said that there is no time or distance "only as divided by and for the convenience of man."  I know this is true.  On the plains we lost the proper divisions of time, and had not the remotest idea of dis-distance, only so far as the eye could see.  We arose at day break and camped at sunset, with a short rest at noon--"our stomachs would strike the hour."  The Indians counted time by the new moon.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Our cattle were becoming footsore and leg-weary.  We camped often when conditions were favorable, for we must have food and water for the cattle.  Our food was scarce; we renewed our larder when necessary by killing a young fat buffalo.  Our clothes were worn, and we all needed rest.  We had crossed a long sandy desert, where we used buffalo chips for fuel, and almost lost our cattle for water.  We were nearing the great mountain range, and would soon be in Nevada.</P>
088.sgm:<P>For some time we had noticed a change in the conduct of the Indians.  They did not visit our camps and show a friendly desire to trade.  We would often see a party on their ponies, mostly on a hill.  By their actions we concluded they were not friendly.  We kept moving and paid no attention to the Indians.  Shortly after crossing the Nevada line, we unexpectedly came upon a wreck of three or four wagons, with the contents scattered in every direction.  Evidently the emigrants had been surprised, and, being a small train, were unable to defend themselves or stock.  There were several dead steers and one horse, supposed to be an Indian pony, left dead as evidence of the battle.  Whether the people were taken prisoners, or escaped by some means, we did not know.  We found one reminder of the awful relentless cruelty of the Indians; it was the skeleton of a little child.  The bones had been cleaned by the coyotes, as had the animals.  The little bones were laid beneath the sand and rocks to protect them, and tears were shed on the little mound.  We found a couple of arrows in one big ox, but the horse had a bullet hole in his head--we supposed planted by a white man.  Taking the tribes and their territory in proper sequence--in Nevada--I have concluded it was Shoshones that destroyed this train.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I do not believe there is any combination of circumstances that will unite people as closely as are the members of a train, after weary, heart-breaking efforts to surmount. obstacles that seem impossible,--months of privation, unending toil, dangers, and hardships.  By the shallow grave of the little child our people clasped hands and looked deep into eyes that responded with the resolve and promise to fight to the last ditch to protect our people from the appalling results of Indian victory.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The human mind acts quickly under the stress of danger, and we knew the cupidity and hatred of the Indians, once aroused, would never die.</P>
088.sgm:<P>We corralled our wagons as closely as possible when we camped, and our cattle had double guards.  Not a woman or child was allowed outside the cordon of wagons after dark.  Camp fires were extinguished as soon as possible after dark.  A supply of water was placed conveniently inside before dark, as were the cattle watered before dark.  We knew we were traveling under a dark shadow,--a shadow of danger and death,--and all necessary work and chores must be done by daylight.</P>
088.sgm:<P>We moved slowly and when we came to the sink of the Humboldt river, some were in favor of a long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>The care and protection from all harm of our cattle was only secondary to our own safety,--to lose even one was an irreparable calamity.  One woman in the train, Mrs. McHana, was fast losing her mind.  The mental strain was too much.  We were leaving the buffalo country, other game was scarce and as a last chance we cured (that is dried) enough buffalo meat to tide us over the trip, or last us to our destination.  Some of the families were out of flour, others had no coffee; we loaned, borrowed and begged, and so we managed.  And I, for one, fully decided I would never again in life crave buffalo meat.</P>
088.sgm:<P>While we were camping at the Sink of the Humboldt, a train passed us driving horses.  The poor animals were skin and bone.  The people were almost out of provisions, but they were out of our jurisdiction, so we could not help them.  Father wanted them to give their stock a rest, but they would not.  But only a few days after we had resumed our journey we passed where they had thrown much of their loads away; and lots of it was useless plunder at that.  We had passed many things thrown away, to lighten loads, too numerous to mention.  One thing, I remember, was an overgrown dutch oven; I think it would weigh more than fifty pounds.  We concluded the flour gave out and there was no more use for the oven.  We passed many graves, and written letters rolled around stakes driven in the ground, names on trees, strips of boards,--everything possible contained names, sometimes with the address and date.  The pity of it: we were all traveling in the same direction and could not meet.  Names were written on rocks with axle-grease,--people trying to leave a record for friends who might, subsequently, perhaps years after, read and know of their welfare.</P>
088.sgm:<P>And still, with all our troubles, our fear of Indians was paramount.  Alkali dust was hurting our eyes.  We learned with joy that we were near Carson Valley, and would soon be in California,--a man at a little trading post told us.  Our men were so happy they decided to all buy something.  My father paid one dollar for a small dry onion.  We crossed the valley and reached a small trading post at what is now known as Genoa,--it was for many years the county seat of Douglas county, Nevada.  We crossed Tahoe range of mountains where the Kingsbury grade is now, and a few days later reached what is now Placerville.</P>
088.sgm:<P>There we met miners from all the mining camps--Georgetown, Hangtown, Fiddletown, Jacks Flat and Dogtown.  Our cattle were reduced to almost skin and bone; our clothes were in rags, with only one redeeming factor--they were clean.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In Hangtown we lost two or three wagons out of our train.  In the Sacramento Valley we lost some more.  Oh, the weather was splendid!  No wonder they wanted to stop and rest!  Father rested our cattle somewhere before reaching Tuolumne, "on good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>"Hello, Frank!" was the greeting from all sides; for many, in fact nearly all, of the miners knew father.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Our cabin was on the hillside; the log walls had two logs on the upper side, and, to even it up, had three on the lower, chinked with clay.  A large fireplace and the door filled the front end.  Mother did all her cooking by the fire, in the chimney; but with all its inconveniences it seemed like a haven of rest to us.  We had two splint bottom chairs, and, with two short benches, they constituted our seating capacity.  The wonder and admiration of the Flat was our cow.  Mother could have sold milk at any price.  The cow was not giving so very much milk, but she gave enough, I believe, for every one on the Flat to share a cup.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I was confined to the house for some time on account of my eyes.  The miners seemed to adopt me.  Father always called me "Tom"--at any rate, I answered to several names--"Little Sister," "Miss Pike," "Missouri," and others.  In speaking of me, I was always "Frank's girl."</P>
088.sgm:<P>At that time there were two stores at Shaws Flat.  Loomis and Markley owned them.  The old Loomis store may be seen today; it is the first building to the left on the Sonora and Shaws Flat road going into Shaws Flat.  Every vestige of Markley's store--like its patrons--is gone forever.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Houses at that time were not what they are today.  Endurance and beauty were not thought of.  Everything that the ingenuity of man could think of was used for building material.</P>
088.sgm:<P>All kinds of food stuff was exorbitantly high, and no variety; only the exigency to sustain life could be procured.  I remember the first dried apples that appeared in the stores; they were small, sour, cut in quarters strung on twine and sold for three dollars a yard.  Then a few bottles of pickles appeared--quarts and pints.  They sold for $5 a quart and $2.50 a pint.  The bottles, to my inexperienced eyes, were marvels of beauty, green, pink and clear glass.  The boys gave me many of the bottles, and at this time I have one (a green one); money could not buy it.  Some of the happiest memories of my childhood are associated with those pickle bottles.  At that time I had no playmates or dolls.  You see, reader, I was denied all that goes to make a happy childhood.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I was in a hive of busy workers, but I had, for compensation, the disinterested love and friendship of all the pioneers on the Flat.  And I believe today one of God's greatest gifts to man is true friendship.  For me, the admiration of a thousand would be no compensation for the loss of a true friend.</P>
088.sgm:<P>At that time, in 1853, the only tangible evidence I possessed of ever learning to read and write was a "Webster Spelling Book" I brought from Missouri.  And it was ten long years after that before I had an opportunity to go to school.</P>
088.sgm:<P>After we had got settled at Shaws Flat, and I had recovered sight, mother wanted to come over to Sonora to buy some material to renew our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>Sonora, Columbia and Jamestown were the most important towns in Tolumne county in 1852-53.  Sonora was the county seat, Columbia the most beautiful and Jamestown the most popular.  Each one of these flourishing little cities had its landmark.  Sonora's pride was Bald Mountain, Jamestown had Table Mountain and Pulpit Rock and a little later Columbia raised the cross of St. Ann's church.  It defies time,--a memorial of early days.  I hope to live long enough to see it restored to its original beauty and usefulness.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The mining camps that flourished adjacent to Sonora and Columbia were Browns Flat, Douglasville, Springfield, Tuttletown, Hardscrable, Yankee Hill, Saw Mill Flat and Shaws Flat.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Those of Jamestown were Campo Seco, Yorktown, Poverty Hill (now Stent), Chile Gulch, Montezuma, Hardtack, and a few others I cannot recall.  Algerine, Montezuma and Chinese Camp were the largest and most important of the smaller mining camps of early days.  Most all the smaller camps had a store, a blacksmith shop, a mail box, sometimes a restaurant, and always from one to three saloons.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Sometime in the fiscal year of 1853-1854, if I am not mistaken, water was turned in the big Columbia ditch.  The big restraining dams were built with logs high up on the South Fork of the Stanislaus river.  Water sufficient for all purposes was furnished to all the mining section.  Mining progressed very rapidly.  Montezuma and Chinese Camp became emporiums of trade.  All kinds of business flourished.  Sonora, Columbia and Jamestown, having the support of the mining camps and surrounding placer mines, increased rapidly in trade and population.</P>
088.sgm:<P>It has been truthfully said that where the carcass is laid there will the vultures gather.  In the early part of '53 strict laws and the vigilantes sent an ever moving stream of human microbes from the cities--gun men, gamblers, blacklegs, and all the low class of the sporting element (men and women) to this county.  They considered our hard-working miners lawful prey; and immediately introduced methods to reap the harvest.  They used the method unsparingly, mercilessly and thoroughly, introducing all kinds of new gambling games.  In the most unexpected places they started groggeries, where both men and women lived, sold whiskey, and gambled; sometimes with music and dancing.  And, of course, these dens of vice were the centers gravitation.  And, as we all know, whiskey makes a confused and helpless fool out of a man.  The honest, hard-working miner entered these dens of vice, to be robbed of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>The first safe cracked was on Shaws Flat.  It belonged to Tarlt Colwell; but, by warning or intuition, he had removed his gold, and at the time it was hid under a pile of garbage in the yard.  William Modina now owns and has a beautiful home at the old Colwell place.  The old safe has stood the test of time, and remains, a silent witness to the cupidity of man, near where it was left--near Peppermint Gulch--in 1853-4.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Man can often destroy in a few hours the work of nature that has been centuries in the building.  It requires twenty-one years by nature, and the laws, for nature to mature a man.  But in early days I have seen all that made life worth living to a young and handsome man, vibrant with life, destroyed in five minutes, by a man's fists.  There was a family lived near us on Shaws Flat by the name of Smith.  Mrs. Smith was a nice-looking and good woman.  There came to the Flat a gambler, well-dressed and flashy, proud of his good looks and fine clothes.  He tried to impose his company on Mrs. Smith.  One day Mr. Smith met him and beat his face nearly off; he broke his nose, and knocked out several teeth, and told him to leave the Flat.  He certainly left.  Before Mr Smith came in contact with him he was known as "Pie Face," but after the Smith episode he was spoken of as "Scar Face" and was soon forgotten.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The early day miners seldom wore guns, and never used them unless necessary to protect life.  But, believe me, no man stepped on another's coat-tail with impunity.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Every succeeding year brought thousands to California.  And, as a natural consequence, the weak went to the wall, while the braggart often died with his boots on.  Conditions changed for the people, and not for their betterment,--men wore guns and shot to kill.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Not only conditions of the Pioneers changed, but the face of nature was fain to confess the superior predatory capacity of the newcomers.  Denuded hillsides, banks of gravel, tail-races, ditches, tailings, and stumps and boulders were in evidence, wherever gold could be found.</P>
088.sgm:<P>My father and his partner, Tarlton Colwell, and in fact all the miners at Shaws Flat and Springfield and vicinity, were badly handicapped by the scarcity of water.  For there was not enough free water to fill the demand; and what water Peppermint Gulch and other brooks, creeks and rivulets afforded was thick with mud, after serving the first string of sluices, consequently most of the rich gravel was washed in winter.  Nothing but long toms and rockers were used after the hot weather had dried up the overflow.  But after water had been turned on by the big Columbia ditch, prosperity radiated opportunity and success all over the mining sections of Tuolumne county.</P>
088.sgm:<P>There was some decline in prices of foodstuff as the facilities for transportation improved.  People were doing away with puncheons and whipsawed lumber.  But still the price of lumber would stagger any poor man's aspirations for a real, hope-to-goodness, all-lumber house;--one without the addition of peeled poles, or some other makeshift of building material.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Father and Colwell kept out of the many times unnecessary mobs and wild, exciting thrills of those days.  It is true the miners had to put the fear of the Lord, or His teachings, into the hearts of the Mexicans and Indians; and many a single-handed whipping occurred, as some miner would catch them stealing his clothing--often hung out to dry.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>That mob violence and drastic action was necessary, I will not deny; for in those days it seemed an utter futility to await the legal process and uncertainty of the law.  Human life was not valued; it must demand a life for a life.</P>
088.sgm:<P>While the morning glory, blackeyed Susan, and a few other flowers beautified our log cabin on Shaws Flat and were admired by so many, one day there came to our door a woman I will never forget.  Her name was Williams and she lived at Springfield.  She came to the Loomis store and passed our cabin; she walked up close to the door.  "For masseys sake, Miss Summers!  The sight of your cabin just near give me the fan-tods!  It looks like Old Missourey.  Lawsey a me, Miss Summers, do you put on table kivers all the time?  Say, ain't they the orneriest, sentimenterest ijuts you ever seed in Californy?  I reckon I knows sense when I sees it.  I get so mad when they laugh at me--their betters!  The meanest, treacherest men are greasers; but I ain't skyeerd of nobody.  Well my visit has hoped me up.  I want to get home and get my shoes off, and have a smoke.  Miss Summers, save me some morning-glory seed.  Say, I am honing to get back to Missourey, and I'se agwine to when we make a stake.  Fo' de Lord! think of wild turkeys, blackberries, strawberries, persimmons, and all we left!"</P>
088.sgm:<P>Poor, undesigning, ignorant woman!  One of the units of a cosmopolitan population of Pioneers of early days.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Another unique personality on Shaws Flat was Irish Kate.  She did laundry work.  There were hundreds of ground sluice holes filled with slum, that were a menace to safety.  Kate was walking one of the narrow trails, her arms full of neatly washed and ironed laundry.  She made a misstep and went into ten feet of slum.  It required half a dozen men with ropes to land her on terra firma.</P>
088.sgm:<P>It causes a longing, homesick feeling when I pass the spot where the little log cabin we lived in at Shaws Flat stood prominently, to be admired, as something unusual and beautiful.  Its commonplace and homely walls were covered with morning-glory and other simple vines--from seed that we had brought from Missouri.  We were thankful for the roof, even if we lived on a dirt floor.  It was an humble and sweet home for us, both in theory and reality, because love radiated around and through, hither and thither, lighting up the dark and ugly corners with peace, contentment and happiness.  Let turmoil, hate, and antagonism reign elsewhere, it never entered our door.  Dear old Shaws Flat!  Around you some of the fondest memories of a long life cling!  For then I had youth and a dear mother and father.</P>
088.sgm:<P>We Leave Shaws Flat and Move to an Unbroken Wilderness</P>
088.sgm:<P>In the Fall of 1854 my father moved from Shaws Flat to an unbroken wilderness, where feet of white men had seldom trod, and never those of a white woman.  After working his claim on Shaws Flat to a near finish, he sold it, and filed a squatter's right to land now owned and occupied by the West Side Lumber Co., and where the town of Tuolumne is located, in the eastern part of Tuolumne county, ten miles from Sonora.  It is now known as the "East Belt" of the Mother Lode.  There were no roads; nothing but trails made by wild animals and wilder Indians.  Our faithful old oxen, Tom and Jerry, were our main dependence for transit through the wilderness.  It required two days to reach our new abode.</P>
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088.sgm:<P>We had left what few conveniences Shaws Flat and Sonora could offer and the end of our pilgrimage seemed far worse to mother and me than the beginning.</P>
088.sgm:<P>We moved into a log house with a dirt floor and a big fireplace.  We did not mind the storms of winter, for we were warm and dry.  As time is the arbiter of all things, we in time lost the fear and dread of the unknown.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The advent of spring in 1855 opened up a vista of enchantment of bud and flower, and we loved it.  Today I hold the ground sacred to the memories of the happiest days of my childhood.  We had passed the winter in comfort and plenty.  The woods were full of game.  The cattle were fat.  The world--or all we desired of it--was ours.  As the summer advanced, we reveled and rejoiced, gathering wild grapes, gooseberries, elderberries greens, and everything that gave variety to our larder.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Father fenced ground for a garden and planted seeds brought from Missouri.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I then became an important member of the family; and, I will say, a busy one; for it was up to me to keep the ground squirrels and rabbits out of the garden.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Later in the fall of 1855 the Scott brothers, half breed Cherokees, wandered into the mountains, near our place, prospecting.  They found good prospects at Cherokee, as they afterward named the place, not much over a mile from our house.</P>
088.sgm:<P>They built themselves a comfortable log cabin as quietly as possible, located their claims, and, borrowing father's rifle, killed some deer and cured the meat.  They hired father to move their long tom, cradle, rocker and tools, also some provisions for the winter and were soon ready for the winter snows.  They knew they had good claims, and they wrote for their brother, Dick, to join them, locating a claim for him.  They would not drink; were the soul of honor.  They were gentlemen in the meaning that all the word implied.  They wanted my father to join them, but he was clearing land for grain and hay.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Very early in the spring of 1856 the news of a rich gold discovery leaked out, and the country was soon overrun with prospectors.  Cherokee soon became a lively, flourishing mining camp with two stores and two saloons.  Of course the saloons were the center of gravity in all camps.  Selling vile whiskey to vile men can have only one result.  The men had already been inoculated with the virus of evil.  They would drink and only taper off when tankage facilities failed.  Whiskey created antagonisms, and their faces would remind one of a personified day of judgment, untempered by mercy.  Then they were eady for anything--robbery or murder, but above all they loved to fight.</P>
088.sgm:<P>This is only a history of the vultures that preyed on the honest class of miners.  Cherokee represented the subsequent camps on the East Belt during '56 and '57, during the placer craze.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The first murder that occurred was done by Wilse Walkingstaff in May, 1856, in a cabin on Turnback Creek, not far from Cherokee.  Walkingstaff was a Cherokee Indian and a very dangerous man.  The trouble was caused by jealousy over a woman--a young squaw.  He became jealous of James Ham, almost a boy, that was new to conditions then prevailing.  He had not been initiated into the gambling class.  Walkingstaff met him alone and cut his bowels open so that they protruded to the ground by his dead body; and then fled in terror from the mob that he knew would hang him.  Ham was buried under a beautiful live oak tree and laid first claim to what was afterward known <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>In June, 1856, without warning of the awful shadow of death that was hovering over our peaceful home, my father was shot to death in French Bar, now known as La Grange.  Oh, the awful sorrow and desolation of that bereft home!  Another coldblooded murder.  My little brother (I forgot to state in proper sequence) was born April 2, 1855, and was too young to realize our loss.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The miners--God bless them--threw a cordon of protection around that humble but desolate home, and none of the rough element ever dared to intrude or molest the helpless and sorrowing inmates.</P>
088.sgm:<P>My dear mother had a problem to solve, alone and unaided.  We must live, and in order to live, we must eat; and to pay the exorbitant prices for provisions seemed impossible.  After mature and deliberate thought she opened a boarding house, my father having built a comfortable dwelling house the year before.  It was not long until she had all the boarders she could possibly cook for.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Our new house was built very near and on the east bank of Turnback Creek.  The creek was located and miners at work very near our house.  They had cabins, of a sort, everywhere close to us.  They were quiet, fun-loving men.  They all wanted to board.  Mother must have a cook, but the men all refused a China cook.  As she could not get a white cook she told them it was a China cook or move boarding house, they consented.  With the new help mother took on more boarders.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Everything was quiet, considering new men were coming in.  One Sunday a fellow that had been bumming for several days went to Cherokee, filled up on "oh be joyful" and, coming down the creek to a cabin of three quiet miners he was offensive, with perfectly appalling results.  He was ordered away in no gentle tone of voice.  One of the rightful inmates of the cabin turned to fill his pipe, and received a bullet in his brain.  The pardners grabbed the murderer and gave the alarm.  In such times men act quickly and often without reason.  Impulse is one thing and judgment another.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Inflamed by the injustice, and cruel murder of their comrade, two hundred miners, to a man, demanded the instant death of the murderer; the vulture in human form, whom they had housed and fed.  There being no other rope available they removed the rope from a dry well at our house.  Willing hands make quick work, and he was soon hanging between earth and sky.  In the shadow of that tree, with its mute evidence of sin and mistaken ideals of life, one of the miners spoke words of warning.  He said: "We are living in primitive surroundings; but there is strength in unity, and the strong hand of justice and retribution will not fail to exact a life for a life.  Beware!"  So ended the fateful year of 1856. That is, there were no more fatalities to record.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The fall and winter passed as quietly as could be expected.  The boys taught me woodcraft; the compass, by reading rocks and trees.  They taught me how to use firearms and I was an expert; and, old as I am, could take the head off of a gray squirrel in the tallest pine, in this day and generation.</P>
088.sgm:<P>By this time some families had moved into the East Belt.  Two or three had moved into Cherokee.  Soulsbyville was still unpopulated, but contained the nucleus of a clean flourishing mining camp; for Ben Soulsby had discovered the Soulsby mine.  This mine necessitated a different class of miners, men that understood hard rock drilling.  Nearly all the quartz <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>At this time other mines were located near the Soulsby mine.  The Platte brothers, Ben and Sam, located the Platte mine.  Joe and Ed.  Hampton, Sr., engaged in mining (and very successfully) at Soulsbyville--the name of their mine has escaped me.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The year 1857 opened up an early spring, with a bright outlook for both the placer and quartz industry.  New discoveries were being made and new camps started.  The Street ditch was preparing to furnish water to all the East Belt miners, placer and quartz.  I think it was in this year William and Penn Price, brothers, brought dairy cows to what in latter days is known as Jack Fry's ranch.  In the early days it was known as the Bukhorn.  I believe they are still living to tell of those wild and wooly days.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In 1857 Mr. C. H. Carter bought all rights and good will of a little store on Long Gulch from Uncle Bob.  It was a small log house with a door and half a window in front.  It was small but very popular with the placer miners.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The question of introducing Chinese labor into the placer mines was bringing a feeling of antagonism between miners and sentiment seemed to be about equally divided; so they decided to leave it to a miners' meeting and vote, and the place selected was Carter's store on Long Gulch.  After a short and, as everyone thought, a friendly debate they proceeded to vote.  Those in favor of the Chinese lost out by a large majority.  Saying nothing, they all walked out of the store into the darkness of a starless night, leaving the door open.  Like the crack of doom, pistol shots were the only warning the men in the store had of the horrid pandemonium of death that was to follow.  Before the lights could be put out, Bob Clod was shot through the heart, William Connally was shot through both shoulders, Ben Edmondson was shot through the thigh.  As soon as the room was in darkness men in the room made for the open, shooting in every direction.  The murderers fled, leaving no trace.  It was believed by every one that the brutal work was instigated and done by one John Page, aided by Bill Ake and Tom Rich.  They left their claims and all their worldly goods, and an unpaid board bill, and were never heard of again.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The little store resembled a slaughter house; the window was completely shattered.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The question of coolie labor was effectively settled.  Bob Clod was buried near the scene of strife.  William Connally and Ben Edmondson recovered after long days of suffering, for medical treatment was uncertain in the early days.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Some time in the spring of 1858 news flew like wild fire that Jim Lyons had killed John Blakely and shot Bill Blakeley's arm off and was in jail.  All the mountain folks knew Jim Lyons and liked him, no man ever left his house hungry; the latch string to his door always hung on the outside.  The Blakely brothers, John, William and James, were Englishmen.  They did a great injustice and a dishonest and low down thing to Lyons.  He could not read, and having faith in human integrity, he unknowingly signed away his right and title to his land near Sullivan's Creek, later known as the Hughes place, the Snyder and Frank Gilkey ranch.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I do not know the date of their location, but William and James Blakely discovered the Eureka mine.  They did not have much money and mother trusted them for board for a while.  But it was not long before they had money to burn.  Soon the little town of Summersville (they named it in gratitude for mother's kindness after her) was a busy hive of industry and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>The Brown and Clayton, on the Norty Fork of the river near Summersville, was rich and paid dividends for years.  Certainly all the arts known in high grading were used at this mine.  I believe Brown and Clayton sold the mine to a New York Co., and they changed the name to the New Albany.  It was and is one of the best paying mines on the East Belt.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In sequence the Lady Washington, Grizzly and Bonito were discovered.  Verplank, the man who was with the Blakely boys at the time of the whole sale shooting by Jim Lyons, still lived with them, running a laundry in Summersville.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In 1858 McCauley murdered Westley Bond, who, with his mother and three sisters, lived on the Shaw's Flat road just across the street from Macomber's orchard.  One of the sisters subsequently married Joe Bowers, manager for Charley Manners, meat market, on Main street, Sonora.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In those days the miners did not exact an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth, but they demanded a life for a life.  Consequently McCauley, with Jim Lyons and Bob Poore, received the death penalty and in the fall of 1858 they were all three taken from the county jail to "Dead Man's Gulch," near the Odd Fellows' cemetery, and all of them at the same time paid the debt of a life for a life.  They were buried where they were executed.  Vengeance could go no further with them than the portals of the grave.  Wild flowers bloom over their unmarked graves, and birds sing their carols to hearts that are dead and ears that hear not.  God is merciful.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Joaquin Murietta, the noted highwayman, always, like the "under dog," was painted blacker than he deserved.  He was a peaceful, quiet miner, with his wife, living near Columbia, or Saw Mill Flat.  He was mining some little distance from his cabin when it was entered by three white men.  Brutes of the lowest type, after they had heaped every indignity on his wife, they robbed the cabin and set fire to it.  Joaquin, seeing the smoke, hastened to his cabin, but too late to aid his wife or save the cabin or its contents.  In an untutored, savage heart like his, what more natural or sweet than revenge?  I have seen him and talked with him.  He never was known to molest women and children.  I had a souvenir that once belonged to Joaquin--a silver saddle horn.</P>
088.sgm:<P>During the fall of 1858 a miner on Turnback Creek sold his claim to a company of five Chinamen.  They rented a cabin from mother, that she had taken in lieu of a board bill.  After they had worked for some time, the miners all along the creek commenced to miss things.  The thievery became a menace to the miners.  Loss of mining tools and cleand up sluices became of daily occurrence.  A miners' meeting was called, and a still hunt for the stolen property instituted.  The property was found under the floor of the Chinamen's cabin--picks, pans, shovels, sluice forks, rocker irons; they were found on a Saturday and left where found.  The Chinks were at work on their claim.  At night they reurned as usual, not dreaming of the awful catastrophe awaiting them.</P>
088.sgm:<P>That night a miners' meeting was called for the whole district, and it was decided to whip them publicly.  Five men were chosen to do the whipping; three others to guard the house through the night.  The five were instructed to lay on good and plenty, but certainly not to overdo, and the whipping place selected is directly in front of where the Methodist church is now, in Tuolumne.  At ten o'clock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>This proved a salutary lesson, for there were no more sluice boxes robbed.  This was justice, or law, administered by the people and for the people.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I am a typical pioneer, and having lived so many years of my life, and seeing turbulence and evil of every description in early days and quick retribution of the people, single-handed or in mobs, I will say I have an unholy desire to see some of the brutish criminals of the present time manhandled as of old.  Crime is ubiquitous; it bids fair to darken the canopy of our country--a shadow, a menace far worse than in '49.  Evil companions and environment pit the character like the smallpox.  There are many things today that lead to crime that the early days never thought of.  Idleness in the growing generation of today is the mainspring or great factor of crime.</P>
088.sgm:<P>You will all remember Mr. Harry Peterson, who was gathering data for a history of early days last year.  It is now being published by the Oakland Tribune's Sunday magazine.  In it he remarks that life is and has been a gamble.  I believe you, Mr. Peterson.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In early days, gambling, although quick and spasmodic in its process; in dives, where the tenderfoot was an "easy mark," and cards but a farce.  When he felt a bull dog derringer or the business end of a forty-five against his ribs he was glad to concede victory to the other fellow, and glad to get out with a whole hide; he felt collicky and white around the gills; he wished he was out of this dadburned country.  In a year that tenderfoot wore a gun, and could use it.  He commanded respect, in the dives or out, or wherever men congregated.  He had learned life as it was then lived.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Speaking of Indians, I will tell you a few facts of early day Indians, for at this time the Indians have outlived all their traditions.  Before the advent of the white man, the Indians lived a peaceful, happy life, with the exception of occasional trouble with the Piutes of Nevada and the Visalia Indians.  The Piutes would cross the Sierra Nevada range and come into this country for a supply of acorns, as the Digger Indians would go to Nevada for pinyon nuts.  Nevada has had many wild horses from the earliest records, so the Piutes had many horses as they have today.  The Digger Indians had none.  The Piutes traded Indian ponies, half-breed dogs, and pinyon nuts for acorns.  All the clothing they knew was furnished by animal pelts.</P>
088.sgm:<P>When one died the Indians gathered from every direction.  The corpse would be straightened, and a basket placed over the head.  They would build a pen about three feet wide and six feet long out of dry poles and lay two thicknesses of green poles across the top.  They would place pitch pine in the center, enough to consume the body.  Altogether it would be about four feet high.  They would then lay the body on, and light the fire.  They would begin dancing the death dance and singing the death chant and grunt, in a circle around the fire.  When one would fall, from fatigue, another would fill the place; new fuel would be added and the crying and dancing would continue until not a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>I have beads burned in this way over fifty years ago.</P>
088.sgm:<P>They (the Indians) were unable to combat or protect themselves from the brutish indignities heaped upon them by the whites, and for many years they most all lived far back in the mountains.  Occasionally a dead man would be found, for, like the Mexicans, the Indian hatred might smoulder but would never die.</P>
088.sgm:<P>After a few years of seeing the whites bury their dead, they concluded to do the same; but, unlike the whites, they would dig the grave round and the box would be ended without much ceremony into the hole, sometimes resting feet up, just as it happened, or haphazard, and at the first change of the moon they would have a big cry, in mourning for the late departed.</P>
088.sgm:<P>While crossing the plains, and passing through Indian tribes continuously we learned something of their customs and traditions.  Most of the tribes would build scaffolds six or eight feet high and lay their dead on them.  In dry alkali climates the bodies seemed to dry up perfectly, as we inspected closely a few where a corner or one end of the scaffold had fallen.  The Piutes, Washoes and Shoshones all buried their dead.  The Piutes and Washoes have a large, profitable reservation at Walker Lake, Nev., and a fine school where they are taught trades and art.  The school is near Carson City, Nevada.  The full blood Digger tribe are passing.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"It was here the red Injun once took delight, fished, fit and bled;<LB>Now most the inhabitants is white, and nary a red."<LB></HI>
088.sgm: --Primitive Poet.<LB>     The government bought two or three cheap reservations for their use in Tuolumne county; one at Chicken Ranch, near Table Mountain (it would not support a band of goats), one near Cherokee that gave a home of five acres to several families, and one on Deep Creek.  While looking over the pitiful efforts to farm on the Cherokee reservation recently the lines written by a pioneer poet of Yorktown occurred to my mind.  It can be found in the early files of the Union Democrat:<LB><HI REND="blockindent">"Clime of the unforgotten brave!<LB>Whose land from plain to mountain cave<LB>Was honor's home, or glory's grave!<LB>Shrine of the mighty!  Can it be?<LB>That this is all remains of thee?"</HI>
088.sgm:<P>They were children and harmelss, and would gladly have welcomed the whites, had the whites been disposed to show mercy or friendship.</P>
088.sgm:<P>At this time (1859) the important towns of Sonora, Columbia and Jamestown, with their prosperity depending on the rich placers, had begun to wane; many and various business houses closed.  Quartz mining had reached a sure and paying basis, but on a safer, saner foundation.  Quartz miners would not support the sporting fraternity as had the placer miners.  Times were changing.  Families were making permanent homes, and wherever water could be procured gardens and small orchards were in evidence.  Instead of dance halls, saloons and pool rooms, comfortable residences were built.  The wild maniacal days of mobs and unlawful hangings were things to be forgotten.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Most of the placer miners had drifted to fields of new endeavor; but as they went they were hopeful of finding a new world to conquer.</P>
088.sgm:<P>As the new year of 1860 drew near, quartz mining was making a stir in the business world.  Capital from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>The pioneer physicians of Tuolumne county were Drs. Brown, Manning, Franklin, Stratton, Eichelroth, Bromley and Gould, and George Summers.  And by far the most successful surgeon was Dr. Walker.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The most prominent attorneys that I remember were Col. Ben Moor, Caleb Dorsey, Charley Brown and Ed. Rodgers, and Otis Greenwood and Col. Barber.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Soulsbyville had secured a post office and Summersville applied for one.  It was discovered that there was a post office of the same name, but spelled Somerville, at the old coal mines in Contra Costa county.  Consequently the name Summersville must be changed.  As C. H. Carter was a prominent merchant and had charge of the mail box, the name of the post office and town was changed to Carters, and, I believe, in 1904-05 was utterly destroyed by fire, leaving only the Good Templars' hall and Joseph Lord's butcher shop.</P>
088.sgm:<P>None can tell the fortune of war or unveil the future.  There are hundreds of rich quartz mines in Tuolumne county that are now idle, only awaiting capital to unwater and place them on a paying basis.  Conditions for quartz mining have improved since the days of black powder and hand drills.  I would like to see all the mining camps rejuvenated and rise Phoenix-like from the ashes of their vanished glory.  And why not?  For, unlike the placers, we still have the rich quartz mines.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The Union Democrat, a weekly newspaper that is still with us and a live wire, was an old pioneer of early days that was a good mixer and stood on a firm foundation of justice to all, irrespective of class or position.  It brightened the log cabins with a dirt floor with a smile as bright while telling the news as when entering the palatial mansion of two rooms with a real board floor.  It was always welcome--to the man from the East dressed in broadcloth, or from the West dressed in homespuns or deerskin.  It was a friend to the people in sorrow or joy.  And, theoretically speaking, I will say that, like all sensible people in the early days, the Union Democrat gave no one a chance to steal its ammunition before it was ready to shoot.</P>
088.sgm:<P>MARK TWAIN</P>
088.sgm:<P>My acquaintance with Mark Twain was more by accident than design, but fate was kind to me.  His first appearance was in the dining room at our house.  I was waiting on table and while taking his order I sized him up as another Missourian, and a green one at that.  During the evening mother entered into conversation with him, and, as usual with Missourians, they imparted numerous and various details of ancient forefathers, and, after lengthy discussion, decided that according to all the rules and laws of Missouri, they were cousins.  After shaking hands and hearty congratulations I made another discovery--that he was anything else but green.  The next day I was combing my hair; he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>Our boarders thought him wonderful and asked me if there were many more like him in Missouri?  I told them no; that he was a Missouri freak that had broken loose from his hitching post.  I was afraid of his quick repartee and sarcasm, even while I admired his versatility and conversational ability.  He was visionary and would build air castles and fill them so full of hope and ambitious dreams that the underpinning would collapse.  He locked horns with Cupid while in Summersville and, as was his natural characteristic, started to build a new air castel, but a castle for two.  After swearing me to secrecy, he confided all this to me.  I told him he was building on quicksand for a foundation.  I said, "Yon have a master mind.  Why grasp at the shadows of life for the reality.  Why not write, as I know only you can?  Grasp for fame, and strive to live in the memory and admiration of coming generations.  Fame and gold will come at your bidding."</P>
088.sgm:<P>Ah! what prophetic words, spoken half in jest!  How vividly all this occurred to my mind, when I with so many others went to Jackass Hill to honor the memory of my illustrious kinsman.  I found the cabin that was dedicated to Mark Twain sheltered by a large oak tree.  It would be a beautiful place for an annual picnic.</P>
088.sgm:<P>While standing on this ground now being consecrated to the memory of the inimitable American humorist, I thought of many others who had honored us by a brief sojourn in the counties along the Mother Lode.  One in particular was Prentice Mulford--"Dogberry" his nom de plume.</P>
088.sgm:<P>My dear mother lived until December 5, 1901.  A native of Gentry county, Missouri, aged 69 when she died.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Her life had known more shadows than sunshine, for she passed through the grilling years with the early pioneers.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>And when at last I rest in peace,<LB>Where I played in childhood's glee;<LB>The sighing winds through the pines I loved,<LB>Will sing a requiem over me.<LB>Oh, time roll back, to my childhood days,<LB>Let me kiss my mother's face;<LB>As when life was young, and blood not pale,<LB>We walked the golden sunset trail.<LB></HI>
088.sgm:<P>MY FIRST DANCE</P>
088.sgm:<P>As there was a thrifty growth of population around the newly-discovered quartz mines, the people of Cherokee decided to give a dance.  I had never seen dancing, and something was due to happen, I thought, that would constitute a distinct event in my life.  In due time the dance occurred.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Joe Roper, one of our boarders, played the violin.  Of course, I was eager for the fray; never once thinking I could not dance.  It is said pride goeth before a fall.  Before reaching the ballroom I had the pride, and after seeing one dance through, I had the fall.  The effect it had on me may be imagined, but, as the old-timer would say, "kaint be described"; and after one futile effort to dance, I suppose it will be sufficient for me to say I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>"God does not grow flowers in a cellar."  I have often thought, through a long life, that it is terrible for children, great of soul and ambition, when circumstances condemn them to a life amid dull, and sometimes sordid surroundings.  "As the twig is bent, so doth the tree incline."  I know this to be true.  "The leopard cannot change its spots."  I was destined to live all my young life with no refined association--only mother.  I was, have been, and will be until death, a typical pioneer.  Years of life lived under the new conditions, of the educated smart set, of new generations, have not changed my soul, body, dress, religion, or prejudice.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Almost everybody in these days is infected with the virus of criticism; and as they criticise my imperfection, I smile; for I know many lessons of life, not taught by books, wealth, fine clothes, and all things commensurate with the new ideals of life--lessons that all must learn, in the pilgrimage from the cradle to the grave.</P>
088.sgm:<P>There were many wild animals in Tuolumne county in the early days--the grizzly, cinnamon-brown bear and the black bear, the California lion, lynx and bobcats.  The lions and bears were the most dangerous.  The brown and black bears would enter a camp or tent, and devour and destroy its contents.  The grizzly, "Monarch of the Wilds," seldom ventured near a settlement.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The last grizzly on record was killed on a Sunday morning within a mile of Summersville.  It was shot by George Hart and Josh Benadum.  George Hart will be remembered by many Sonorans.  The grizzly was taken to Joseph Lord's slaughter house, and weighed two or three pounds over fifteen hundred pounds.  The bear was weighed by William Murphy, whose home was in Columbia.  At the time he was manager of Joseph Lord's meat market.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In those days of Kaintucky rifles, single shot, and black powder, the only vital place to hit a grizzly, or, in fact, any kind of bear, was the heart, eye or ear.</P>
088.sgm:<P>This grizzly had been shot through the heart twice.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Grizzlies are like the early pioneers--the place that knew them once will know them no more.  One never hears of a grizzly being seen, even on the highest and most inaccessible peaks of the Sierra range.  We have only the brown bear left to cause occasional thrills and excitement; and even at that, one not familiar with bear-ology had better bow and pass on than try to kill.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The last brown bear I have seen or have a personal knowledge of was at Sugar Pine Creek five or six years ago, near the Excelsior mine.  I was walking up the creek above the old dam.  There was tall grass growing.  I thought I saw something unusual in the creek above me.  I could only see the bear's back for the grass was tall and waving I thought.  I knew there was something rooting in the grass, and concluded it was a coon or a badger.  Finally I saw the whole body move.  I had an L. C. Smith double-barrel shotgun, loaded with No. 7 shot, but no extra cartridges.  I had the gun resting on my left arm and carried a gold pan in my right.  I laid the gold pan down without noise.  I was not expecting a bear and was not prepared to meet one.  I raised both hammers of my gun, and, as far <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>The greatest achievement that I remember of ever seeing any record of was of a slaughter of bears, all killed in the space of a few minutes by Geo. B. Connally, now living in Tuolumne, George usually hunted for big game, so was prepared for any emergency.  In the vicinity of the White House--the Duckwall ranch--now owned by Emmett Murphy, is a long open swale known as Skidmore Flat, three miles east of Tuolumne.  George was alone, and walking a narrow trail through thick brush; when he reached the flat he was warned of an unusual event.  A black bear and a brown bear were in deadly combat over the carcass of a cow.  He immediately opened fire and killed the old bears, leaving two large sized cubs for him to slaughter, and he called it a day with four bears to his credit.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In the late '50s, and later, fox hunting was great sport.  Ike Dessler of Jacksonville owned nearly a dozen fox hounds.  Cob Turner, from the top of Yankee Hill, had six or eight, Tom Robinson had four, my step-father two.  If a time was set for a hunt men would gather from Jamestown, Sonora and Columbia.  I have seen as many as fifty gather for a big hunt.  Sometimes they would slay as many as a dozen foxes in one night.  They would have rich pitch pine torches.  The men I remember best from Jamestown were Peter Keyser, Tom Evans, John Oliver, Dr. Bratton, Johnnie Donovan.  I remember one night they were on Soulsby mountain.  The old Street ditch made a fine track.  Incidentally, they ran into a large and antagonistic family of skunks.  The skunks were so overpowering two or three of the men jumped into the ditch.  Everyone in the crowd had suddenly tired of hunting.  They called the dogs in with their horns, and brought the night's pleasure to an end.  Even today a purebred fox hound looks good to me.</P>
088.sgm:<P>During 1858 Uncle Joe Van Prague carried our mail regularly from Sonora.  He charged fifty cents for letters, and twenty-five cents for papers, usually the Union Democrat.  I think it was in 1859 George Johnson started a tri-weekly stage to Cherokee from Sonora.  I think at or near that date John Sedgwick kept a livery stable in Sonora; also John Monahan and Whipple.  After selling out the stable John Monahan was Constable, and later Assessor for many years.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In 1859 my mother moved to Summersville.  Subsequently she had many boarders.</P>
088.sgm:<P>During the early years of the '50s men flocked to the gold mines from every state in the Union.  There was a great diversity of opinion as to what life in the gold mines would be, and they came prepared accordingly.  From the new western states every garment and article they brought was for immediate use, and carefully considered as to durability.  Strong, warm clothing, good blankets, strong boots, warm socks, etc., everything possible for comfort and nothing for looks; while men from the older Eastern states that knew nothing about self-denial and roughing it, brought fine clothes, fine shoes, and some even brought their stove-pipe hats.  Naturally, they were looked on with contempt by the rough, hardy miners and were considered by them as deficient in characteristics that made the life of the early pioneer possible--its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>But after they had passed through the cosmopolitan and nondescript melting pot of the early day frontier, had learned how to mine, cook beans and sourdough slapjacks, they were considered desirable citizens and all round good fellows.  They had also learned that the winds of Satan had no saving grace, if it did blow from the East.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Late in the '50s, I think it was in '58 or '59, the good citizens of Summersville secured a three months' school and, unfortunately, secured a woman just from Boston.  She disliked our new country, our ways, and, as a people, classed us as ignorant--to be despised with all else pertaining to the West.  And I, for one, thoroughly disliked her.  We had few books, but were happy to go to school.  At that time I could read and write well.  The first day she came armed with a rawhide whip; the second day she taught several small pupils its use.  The third day she produced an old grammar (of course, I had heard of grammar).  She asked us, as a class, if we knew anything about the different parts of speech.  "What do you know?" she said, looking at me.  "Do you know anything about it?"  "I certainly do," I replied.  "Well, tell me what you know."  "I know some Indian, I can speak Spanish fairly well, I know a few words in Italian, and I know English from A to Z."</P>
088.sgm:<P>"You poor idiot, you are a true product of the West.  I pity you."</P>
088.sgm:<P>"I do not want your pity," I replied; "I am a true product of the West, and I love it."</P>
088.sgm:<P>I quit school that day.  In less than a week her school was closed.</P>
088.sgm:<P>As time and opportunity offered, I gathered a few splinters from the tree of knowledge.  Did I ever shine in the world of letters as a grammarian?  I will say: No.</P>
088.sgm:<P>As a sequel and final ending to this my last day at my first school I must record an unusual episode connected with my first lesson in grammar.  After expressing her opinion of me so freely, I was out for revenge.  She asked us to parse a sentence--"John's hat."  I quickly raised my hand.  "Pardon; but I know all about John's hat."  With a sneer, she asked me to proceed.  "You seem to know a great deal," she continued, with a sneering laugh.</P>
088.sgm:<P>"Well, at our picnic last week I saw your Boston sweet heart (Dick Wilson) knock John Chapman's hat off and it fell to the ground.  John knocked Dick Wilson down and I believe he made a dent in the ground, for he also fell and he left the picnic crying."</P>
088.sgm:<P>I felt elated.  I returned her contempt and haughty, insulting disdain with interest, while relating what, in those days was a natural, trifling incident at the first picnic on the East Belt of the Mother Lode.</P>
088.sgm:<P>(Note--I believe there are some living today that will remember John Chapman).</P>
088.sgm:<P>In concluding this chapter, I will relate an incident that occurred in Algerine in the early days.  An Eastern man, new to the country, paid Algerine a visit; also one of its saloons, where a crowd of miners were gambling.  They immediately made a stampede for his high hat, set it in the center of the table, put a quart bottle of liquor in it, filled the space with potatoes, and played cards for it.  It was indeed a valuable stake to play for.  The bottle of liquor--"good stuff"--was worth ten dollars, and the potatoes a dollar a pound.  And the Easterner?  His reception and the unusual and, to him, humiliating treatment of his beloved and costly silk hat rendered no returns, only fear.  His pale face and trembling knees gave the rough miners the keenest joy.  When his hat was returned, he made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>At this time there is very little left to show the locations of the many flourishing placer camps.  Gone are the cabins, the boarding houses, the saloons and gambling dens, also the dance halls.  There is nothing left to show where temples were raised to false gods.  Where, beneath a roof of rough green shakes, the devotees paid tribute to Bachus, the god of drink, in bacchanalian hilarity lost their money, and sometimes their lives.  At Campo Seco--a name familiar to all--stands a live oak tree on the hill west of the county road, and overlooking the comfortable dwellings and peaceful little valley that, in early days, swarmed with a horde of miners and gambling dens.  In the shade of this beautiful tree that gave of its strength, two camp followers paid the tragic debt of a life for a life.  Their unmarked graves are in the vicinity.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In the early '50s such tragedies created little comment.  The story, as I remember it being passed through the different camps, was that these two men killed a nightwatchman employed by the miners to guard their sluices.  After the killing, they cleaned several ounces of gold and were caught in the act.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In later years, Grandpa Smith gave the story and the location of the tree.  I had heard the story of the hanging, and was glad to know by authentic report concerning the tree.</P>
088.sgm:<P>At this time--November, 1924--I am a resident of Campo Seco.  During the warm days of summer the shade of this beautiful tree almost reaches my dwelling.  It causes hours of retrospection, when past scenes and incidents pass in mental review, and I thank God for the great gift of Hope and Memory.  For without Hope the heart dies, unless one has the happy faculty of seeing only the silver lining to the dark, lowering clouds that obscure the sunlight of life.  This beautiful tree also teaches me of the creative power of God, and how puny and impotent the power of man--only to destroy.  Man cannot add one inch to his diminutive stature, neither can he, with the aid of thousands of guaranteed applications, cause one hair to grow on an otherwise bald head.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I remember, in the late '50s, when the hurdy-gurdies first made their appearance at the mining camps.  A hurdy-gurdy consisted of four girls with a man to play the violin.  The girls were mostly German and more decent than the dance-house girls.  Instead of drinking strong liquor, they drank something light.  This was necessary because every dance brought to the house fifty cents for drinks and fifty cents to the girl.  Each and every dance cost the miner one dollar.  But dollars were plentiful in those days.  They were a diversion for a class of miners that wore no evening suits, that never danced in respectable society.  They would remain only a few days in a camp, then move to another.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In this little history of the Early Day Pioneers I have spoken of those who by their indomitable will and fortitude faced untold dangers by land and sea.  In 1848 a sailing vessel was wrecked near the Isthmus.  There were few boats and many passengers to be saved.  In one small boat were six who trusted their lives to Mother Ocean with very little food and water.  There were two that died from exposure and fright, and were thrown overboard.  One young girl and three men lived to drift to an unknown island, nearly starved for food and water.  Two of the sailors were foreign, and they with one Joseph Moss and Mary Bradleaf were the only survivors of the wreck.  And they were doomed to a fate worse than death.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Joseph Moss determined to save <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>To date the adventures and sufferings of Mr. and Mrs. Moss is not in the province of my history, but goes to prove the dangers of the sea, as did the many graves we passed in 1852 prove the dangers and hardships of crossing the plains.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Cherokee, the first placer camp in the East Belt of the Mother Lode section, still retains its name, and is slowly regaining prominence as a mining camp, both placer and quartz.</P>
088.sgm:<P>One of the early day pioneer placer miners, Giovanni Scanavino, remained and lived to transform the once rich placer ground into fruit and vegetable gardens.  Mr. Scanavino has been dead twenty years.  His good wife lived with her eldest son, Andrew, after the death of her husband until her death on April 30, 1924.  Emilio and Mrs. Mela Hoyt are a son and a daughter living in Jamestown.  Mrs. Hoyt owns and edits the Mother Lode Magnet of Jamestown, a bright, newsy paper.  She is assisted by her brother, Emilio.</P>
088.sgm:<P>I believe one of the early day store buildings still stands in Cherokee, to defy time and scorn the transitory works of man.</P>
088.sgm:<P>No history of early days in Tuolumne county would be complete without a biographical sketch of one of our noble Pioneers, Dr. John Shaw.  With a kind disposition, and competent, he filled his appointed days with us in honor.  He was born in Londonderry, Ireland, Nov. 24, 1824.  Came to the United States in 1846; finished his education in Wilmington, North Carolina as a chemist and druggist.  He came to San Francisco in 1852 and was married in 1854 to Miss Hester Brangon in San Francisco by the first Presbyterian minister on the coast, the Rev. Samuel H. Willey--the first protestant minister to enter the land of gold.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Mr. Shaw crossed the oceans on the sailing vessels Illinois and John Stephens.  He was a life-long Democrat; was County Treasurer and Deputy County Treasurer, and one of the first school trustees in Sonora; was a member of the Odd Fellows through life from 1852 until his death, 1906.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Dr. Shaw introduced the first rain gauge in Tuolumne county, and gathered a valuable and important mineral cabinet.  He left to mourn his death sons and daughters that are an honor to his name and memory.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The first orchard planted in Tuol-county was at Jacksonville in the early '50s by Capt. Smart.  I understand some evidence of the trees still remains as mute reminders of Pioneer industry and thrift.  Capt. Smart's great-niece, Mrs. Flora Greenlaw Grupe, lives near Stockton and is president of the Pioneer Auxiliary.  Her brother, L. A. Greenlaw, resides in Sonora.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Mr. Bernard Meyers, who passed away a few months ago, and Nellie, his worthy wife, at this writing still living in Sonora, knew of many interesting incidents that occurred in early days.  Two of their children left, Mrs. Frank Mallard and Mrs. James Reed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>William Price is still with the living, resting peacefully and quietly under his own vine and fig tree.  He was a member of the law and order club during the wild lawless times of the maniacal gold craze of early days.  His family is an honor and pleasure to his old age.  Strong and honorable, ranking high with the best, Lee Price was Sheriff for several years of Tuolumne county.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In this history I must not forget the Daniels sisters, Nellie and Mary.  They were widely known as the "Chapparal Quails."  This nickname was no disparagement; it was the custom of that day, and would cling like a leech.  They were very popular, very handsome, and just as good as they were pretty.  Like all young girls in those days, they had passed through the grades of the Three R's.  Education and refinement appealed to them.  They came to Tuolumne while very young.  Their parents were early pioneers and settled in the Rawhide section.  Mr. Daniels mined and farmed on a small farm.</P>
088.sgm:<P>William D. Gibbs and his brother Jack came from Texas in the early '50s.  In 1856 William married Mary Summers at the bride's home, twelve miles below French Bar, or La Grange, on the Tuolumne river.  In 1859 he moved to Summersville and subsequently located land near the Marlow Camp, four miles from Summersville, where most of his numerous family were born.  The only children remaining in Tuolumne county now are Jas. L. Gibbs of Tuolumne and his twin sister, Mrs. F. F. Ball of Sonora, and Jesse Gibbs, merchant, in Jamestown.  The late Mrs. W. E. Booker of Jamestown was also a daughter.  A son, Henry Gibbs, resides in Texas.  Another son, Roy Gibbs, lives in Selma.  Three other daughters are: Mrs. L. E. Sawrie, of Selma; Mrs. E. J. Needham of Modesto, and Mrs. F. E. Berger, of Berkeley.</P>
088.sgm:<P>William C. Connally was an early pioneer on the East Belt.  He was a native of Alabama, living a few years at Little Rock, Arkansas, prior to the great adventure of gold mining in California.  He was elected to the Assembly and died in Sacramento; was brought home and buried in Summersville.  He was very popular with all the miners, and a man of education.  He left four sons and one daughter.  George and Frank are living in Tuolumne.  Mrs. Alice Lee Winwood, his daughter, lives in Oakland.  Charles moved to San Luis Obispo, where he died in December, 1924.  William, the other son, has been dead about 18 years.  They were born during an age of some educational advantages.  Every decade advanced wonderful changes in educational and social conditions, and mode of living, that I never dreamed of when a child.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Thomas O. West, a native of England, was one of the early miners that came to Summersville.  I think he mined in the Eureka.  He very quickly adapted himself and accepted the conditions then prevailing, was a good mixer socially, and well liked by old and young.  He did not let the opportunity to advance slip by.  When Soulsbyville grew into a thrifty mining town, Mr. West moved to Soulsbyville with his family and opened a large and well stocked provision store.  The family now living reside in Soulsbyville.  John West, a son, is an efficient, intelligent business man, well liked, and carries on the mercantile business in Soulsbyville--a true son of the West, born in early days in Summersville, a mining town that once stood at the head of its class.</P>
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088.sgm:<P>Thomas Walton and his wife, Mattie, came to the East Belt as early pioneers.  Mr. Walton engaged in placer mining at Marlow.  They came from Texas.  They were a worthy and welcome addition to the little band of early pioneers who were fighting adverse conditions one met all along the line.  They were called many years ago.  A part of the family they left reside in Sonora.  Will and John Walton are well and favorably known.  Mrs. Charles Livingston of Sonora is a daughter.  Mrs. Eliza Greiner, Jefferson and Hattie Walton are the other remaining children.</P>
088.sgm:<P>A prominent pioneer family were the Fitzgeralds.  They were promoters, and identified with the Mother Lode mines through its infancy in early days, and until the fame of the Mother Lode became universal.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Henry Burden, our present Coroner and Public Administrator, an early pioneer, should be remembered.  Though his hair is white, his eyes are bright and his heart is young.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Larose Daveluy settled during early days at Confidence, and supplied miners with all that could be secured in those days--provisions and clothing.  He always met his patrons and friends with a welcome smile, and was well liked by all classes.  He leaves a brother and nephew, Fred and Avilla Daveluy of Tuolumne, that own and publish the Prospector.  They are fine men and publish a fine paper.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In this biographical section I will tell something that has been accepted by the earliest miners on the East Belt and Mother Lode as authentic: William Trengove, Sr., father of Mrs. Jos. Barron, of Soulsbyville, with two companions, ventured into the hills east of Sonora.  They traveled without chart, prospecting for gold.  They reached a beautiful creek, the first white men to visit it or admire its beauty, in 1853.  Hearing an unearthly noise some distance up the creek, they knew they were in the vicinity of an Indian rancheria.  As this did not agree with their plans of safety, they concluded to turn back.  Inscribing their names on a large tree on the west bank of the creek, they also gave the creek the name of Turnback Creek, by which it has been known through many decades of mining industry and subsequent civilizing process of time on the East Belt.</P>
088.sgm:<P>P. B. (or Captain) Smith was an early arrival, and helped to separate the sheep from the goats.  Fortunately for the residents of Campo Seco, he selected that vicinity for his permanent abode.  As he was capable, mentally and physically, he rendered assistance to law and order.  He left to worthy sons and daughters the tradition of early days, land and honor.  His sons, although descending the shady slopes of old age, keep the fields he left, adjacent to Campo Seco, well stocked and green.  Captain (or Grandpa) Smith, as he was lovingly called in his latest years, died in 1907.  The children of Capt. Smith are: A. L., P. B. and G. W. Smith of Jamestown; W. H. Smith, of Oakland; Mrs. L. M. McRae, of Jamestown; Mrs. G. B. Neighbor, of Snelling; Mrs. Frank Mugler, of San Jose, and Mrs. H. B. Pease, of Oakland.</P>
088.sgm:<P>A prominent family to settle in the East Belt was that of Pap Williams.  They came some time in the '50s and settled up in the mountains.  Many readers will recall John D. to memory.  Pap had three pretty daughters who were pretty lively and fond of company, consequently all trails led to Pap's.  Miss Lizzie was the eldest of the girls.  They were all pleasant--Misses Mima and Nancy Jane.  They often gave week-end parties and everybody was respectfully invited.  It's strange how small, unimportant incidents will be remembered through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>"Say, you!  What for you dance mit Lizzie I count it three times already?  I hurt you!"</P>
088.sgm:<P>Ben removed his pipe, knocked the ashes out of it, and placed it in his pocket.  With a broad grin, he looked the stranger over and said:</P>
088.sgm:<P>"Jump to it, McDuff!"</P>
088.sgm:<P>"You bet my life I yump!  I hit me my hands mit your head!"</P>
088.sgm:<P>Ben laughed a loud, contagious laugh, at the same time unbuttoning his vest.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Lizzie looked at me and saw what was due to happen, for I was suffocating with suppressed laughter.  I knew Ben, and I had an unholy desire to see him manhandle the impudent pup.  Lizzie placed a strong hand over my mouth, and with a grip on the back of my neck, forced me inside, through the kitchen, and out on the back porch.  Lizzie had a solemn, scared look on her face.  I noticed Ben and Lizzie waltzing directly afterwards.  I never learned the details.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Lizzie with her husband, Zeke Westinghouse, was called many years ago.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Mima married Ben Soulsby.  They are living near Soulsbyville.  Miss Nancy Jane is living in Soulsbyville.  John D. answered the call a few years since.  Pap and Ma have been gone many years--all worthy pioneers.</P>
088.sgm:<P>In 1853-4 there was a large population of Chinese in Tuolumne county.  They were harmless, industrious, and they were a great covenience to all classes, especially as cooks and laundrymen. They were quiet and peaceable and free from the degrading influences of whiskey.  They were not disorderly, and a lazy one does not exist.  They were to be found wherever men with gold were congregated, working always working, in some capacity.  A great many were working abandoned placer claims with rockers.  They had stores, jewelry shops, and other trades in all the larger towns.  They bought gold and manufactured the most beautiful jewelry, using no alloy.  They were treated civilly by the early pioneers, but after the advent of the rough element from the cities, the conditions were naturally changed for both whites and Chinese, and they sometimes made life a burden, especially to the Chinks, as they were considered lawful prey.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Sometimes there would be a mix-up between the Mexicans and Chinamen that would create a breeze.  Both were handy with knives, and when they met in battle it was usually a sanguinary affair.  Unlike the Japs, they did not try to swallow the Pacific Coast, with the hook, line and sinker thrown in for good measure.</P>
088.sgm:<P>It is beyond my ability to describe the thousand and one articles of merchandise that were in the store in early days here in Sonora.  One thing I remember was the doughuts.  I think they were imported.  Some kind of nut flour and fine seed was used; they were round as a ball and most delicious.</P>
088.sgm:<P>THE TRAMP</P>
088.sgm:<P>The tramp in early days was an unknown quantity.  If a man went broke in those days he did not proclaim the fact to the world, and try to work on the sympathy of the people, even for a cold "hand out."  No, Sir-ree.  If <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>A PROPHECY</P>
088.sgm:<P>An Allegory of Truth and Fiction <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>TRUTH<LB>     Bald Mountain, Sonora's land mark, in early days produced much gold and offered her wealth to the world to harvest.<LB>In the gold pregnant west, full of hope for the world,<LB>Bald Mountain stood boldly supreme in her pride;<LB>Her jewels were boulders, tall trees were her crown,<LB>She held in her bosom what all mortals love,<LB>Pure gold in abundance, that all mortals crave,<LB>To dig for, and fight for, through life to the grave.<LB></HI>
088.sgm:<P>ALLEGORY</P>
088.sgm:<P>The moonlight cast a radiance over the outline of the mountain.  The amaranths growing on its summit diffused an unearthly, beautiful, amaranthine glow.  Unrolled to my view was a scene of enchantment seldom vouchsafed to mortal eyes.  The chapparal and manzanita made a scenic background for the deer that grazed on her sunny slopes in winter and rested under her tall trees in summer.  The Indian trails, and Indians, gazing with the deer, with fear and trembling at the white men in the distance, made the foreground and completed a landscape of enchantment.  One could stare at it forever in worshipful fascination.  This enchanting scene did not seem to be the hallucination of a delirious brain.  I was not startled when a low, sympathetic voice spoke my name.</P>
088.sgm:<P>"Mortal, the voice of the spirit of Bald Mountain speaks.  Do you hear my voice?"</P>
088.sgm:<P>"Yea, I hear."</P>
088.sgm:<P>"You are old.  You have passed through many vicissitudes of life.  You have seen and know what evolution has done since Pride, Graft and Vanity have twisted the heart out of Truth and Mercy.  Mortal have you gained wisdom?"</P>
088.sgm:<P>"Nay.  My life has been as a reed shaken by the wind.  The Book of Life has not yet opened its pages of wisdom for me to read."</P>
088.sgm:<P>"Mortal, I am from time immemorial immutable.  After all this generation has passed through; the feverish drama of life; seeking for what they cannot find, grasping the shadow for the substance, and the tinsel for the gold.  After they have laid all sorrow, pleasure, aspirations, and disappointment in the grave, the wise man will come, who can invoke his destructive agents--Electricity, Dynamite, Water, and Cheap Labor.  He will change the face of nature wherever gold can be found.  Table Mountain and her adjacent flats will again cast wealth to the intelligence and industry of man.  Mortal, farewell.  You will hear my voice no more!"</P>
088.sgm:<P>WISDOM</P>
088.sgm:<P>As weighed in the scales of the early forty-nine pioneers in California--and King Solomon.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Our people earned gold by the sweat of the brow.  The more they worked, the more gold they gathered.  Gold was a much desired and marketable product.  It was used as exchange for food and all the necessities of life.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>Now let's investigate several centuries in the past and see where, how and when King Solomon was wise.  I will borrow a few lines from the popular American Vanguard and tell you:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"King Solomon, the good book says,<LB>Was wise as man could be;<LB>He almost was a Demigod--<LB>A mighty saint was he.<LB>He built for God a dwelling house<LB>Most wondrous to behold;<LB>A palace fit for any king,<LB>A temple roofed with gold.<LB>His camel trains reached every land,<LB>His ships to Ophir sped;<LB>With Sheba's queen he dallied and<LB>With Pharaoh's daughter wed.<LB>He had three hundred wives,<LB>And concubines galore;<LB>His harem stock inventoried<LB>A thousand gals and more.<LB>But men no longer walk with faith;<LB>The evil times are on;<LB>The saints have fled to heaven and<LB>The good old times are gone.."<LB></HI>
088.sgm:<P>Solomon, with all his wisdon and earthly glory, never gave to his working people one-half the pleasure that Henry Ford gave when he placed a good reliable automobile in the hands of labor at a commensurate price that all can pay.  It rejuvenates the old, and gives joy to the young, and scatters--yea, radiates--pleasure. A poor toiler may be forced to work long hours, and eat a liver sandwich for lunch, but he has the satisfaction of knowing when his neighbors are all going to the celebration or picnic he will not be left.  For he has a Ford.  He, too can take his tired wife and the children, and in so doing he enjoys and breathes the same atmosphere that his rich neighbor does.  All hail the automobile!  It has passed its luxury vocation in the lives of men--it is now a necessity.</P>
088.sgm:<P>When one considers the vast and unlimited resources of Tuolumne county, one will not be surprised at the ever growing population.  That housing conditions in Sonora, Jamestown and Columbia connot cope with it, shows the rapid influx of people from all over the world.  The West Side and Standard Lumber Companies have thousands on their payrolls, and ship annually millions of feet of fine lumber.</P>
088.sgm:<P>With two fine marble quarries producing first-class marble; the finest apples known to the world; diversified farming of all kinds of fruit and vegetables; where the fig and orange and semi-tropical products flourish--I would ask, after considering the electric power and water facilities:  Is it surprising that people come and in ever increasing numbers continue to come to Tuolumne County?  Thousands of tourists come to our mountains in summer, seeking cool shade and cold water, the solitude and the repose guaranteed by the state line.</P>
088.sgm:<P>As the tourists love the mountains, so do I; but not as ground for a summer's recreation.  They have been a silent communal of my sorrows and joys.  I love nature.  The solitude and loneliness of the forest; the sunset and the descending night.</P>
088.sgm:<P>The mountains have for me the charm of comradeship; they have been a part and parcel of my life for over seventy years.  In the mountains, with waving pines, I had known <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>I love the mountain brooks, with the profusion of tall ferns and thimble berries.  Where the willows wave above the transitory water, and the wild roses distilled perfume in the solitude.</P>
088.sgm:<P>All these God-given glories were mine to admire and love through a long life of sunshine and shadow.</P>
088.sgm:<P>"Coming events cast their shadows before," as seen through old and worn glasses.</P>
088.sgm:<P>POLITICAL ECONOMY</P>
088.sgm:<P>A few remarks from the writer will conclude this little history of one decade, or, in reality, only eight years--an epoch of deprivation, trials, danger, and sorrow.  We were instruments known and recognized as Pioneers, and predestined to civilize the Pacific Coast.  Our work is done.  After a mental review of the heroic men and women with whom my young life was intimately associated, who are leaving just as heroic sons and daughters, who will struggle, and fight to the last ditch to keep clean and unpolluted this land, the inheritance we leave them,--one of the best countries under the canopy of Heaven.  God, in His creation of the Earth, gave to the oceans a boundary, as he gave to all the nations of the earth an abiding place, containing land and water,--a home and a country to call their own,--and each and every one has its boundary.  Every member of a Christian nation should believe in an intelligent Creator and Ruler of the Universe.  No people that has not this belief should be allowed admittance or a right of way over our boundary line.  As clay and iron will not mix, neither can Americans and the Oriental nations.  They are a menace to the millions of the laboring class of our country.  Keep them out, and while doing this, I believe it is good policy to keep our country free from all entangling treaties with foreign nations.</P>
088.sgm:<P>While so many men and women are courting notoriety and trying to get their names and pictures in the papers and asking our President to sign peace treaties, I say if they would go home and while the children were eating a satisfying meal, prepared by mother, they would read the inspired prophecy of Daniel, they might realize how foolish and futile are their vain efforts to unite the countries of Europe or permanently end wars.</P>
088.sgm:<P>We have the early history that after the Roman Empire, kings and emperors tried, and failed, to unite these countries.  First Charlemagne; then Charles V, Louis XIV, and last Napoleon.  Yes, even the great Napoleon failed, and why?  Because God's word and the inspired prophecy of Daniel must be fulfilled.</P>
088.sgm:<P>While Capital is the brains that keep the cogs and wheels of prosperity turning, the working millions are the backbone and sinews, main strength and dependence of our country.  In order to maintain strength, as Bill Nye once said, they "must eat, to give them strength to earn more grub, and do more work."  Yes, in war or peace, they are the bulwark of our nation.  Their best interests should always be considered by every one who casts a vote.  Let him be in Washington or at home, the law-maker in protecting the best interests of labor shows a love of country and a true democratic American characteristic.  I remember away back in the good old times when there was tax of four dollars a month on all Orientals.  They paid this tax or were deported.  At the present time they reap the harvest and product of our land, while many of our citizens are homeless, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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088.sgm:<P>In early days man paid an exorbitant price for food, but he could dig the price from rich placers; but, ah, me! the placers are gone, but an exorbitant price for food remains, and men can only place their trust in the Lord, while devoutly hoping the merchant will trust them.  Simple as the high cost of living may sound, it is a problem that is filling the insane asylums and suicidal graves all over our land.  Where will it end?</P>
088.sgm:<P>The year 1860 dawned on a quiet, industrious and happy country all through the Mother Lode counties.  Even then the war clouds of the Civil War were casting somber shadows and the threat of a current of devastation, want and death over all our beloved land.  What more could cruel fate do to obstruct our progress?</P>
088.sgm:<P>We had conquered the wilderness, as by fortitude and will power, and had reared a new and better town of Sonora after the destructive fire that laid it in ashes in 1852.</P>
088.sgm:<P>Very few early day pioneers are alive today that can tell of the Civil War.</P>
088.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
088.sgm:<P>PRINTED BY THE MOTHER LODE MAGNET JAMESTOWN, CALIF.</P>
088.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT APPLIED FOR BY THE AUTHOR</P>
089.sgm:<!DOCTYPE tei2 public "-//Library of Congress - Historical Collections (American Memory)//DTD ammem.dtd//EN" [<!entity % images system "089.ent"> %images;]><TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-089</TITLE>
089.sgm:<TITLE>Luzena Stanley Wilson, '49er; memories recalled years later for her daughter Correnah Wilson Wright.  Introduction by Francis P. Farquhar, illustrations by Kathryn Uhl: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
089.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
089.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
089.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
089.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
089.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
089.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
089.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
089.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>37-8794</LCCN>
089.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
089.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 106205</COPYRIGHT>
089.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>Luzena</P>
089.sgm:<P>Stanley Wilson</P>
089.sgm:<P>'49er</P>
089.sgm:<P>MEMORIES RECALLED YEARS LATER FOR HER</P>
089.sgm:<P>DAUGHTER CORRENAH WILSON WRIGHT</P>
089.sgm:<P>INTRODUCTION BY FRANCIS P. FARQUHAR</P>
089.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATIONS BY KATHRYN UHL</P>
089.sgm:<P>THE EUCALYPTUS PRESS. MILLS COLLEGE. CALIFORNIA</P>
089.sgm:<P>APRIL. 1937</P>
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089.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Copyright 1937 by The Eucalyptus Press</HI>
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089.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">by</HI>
089.sgm:<P>FRANCIS P. FARQUHAR</P>
089.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Mrs. Luzena Stanley Wilson's account of her pioneer years in California is of significance not only for the vividness of the portrayal but for the circumstances that led to the preservation of the story.  In 1881 her only daughter, Correnah, was convalescing from a serious illness.  To make the time pass less slowly, Mrs. Wilson recounted her early experiences and the daughter wrote them down in long hand.  Years later they were typewritten and bound, and one of the two copies was given to the Mills College Library.  On the last page of the reminiscences there is subscribed: I have written my mother's story as nearly as I could in her words.</HI>
089.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Her many friends will recall that Correnah Wilson was graduated from Mills in 1875, that she was the first Alumnae Trustee of the college, and that she left to her alma mater beautiful examples of Oriental art.  Always interested in art and literature, she took a leading part in many cultural activities.  At one time she was president of the Century Club in San Francisco.  In 1886 she married Edward Clark Wright who was for many years connected with the railroad business in California.  Mr. Wright died in 1924.  Ten years later Mrs. Wright sailed for the Orient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">It is characteristic of Mrs. Wright that she left no memoranda to accompany the manuscript she gave to Mills College.  For her, the experiences set forth were self-explanatory, like works of art, needing no labels.  The narrative gives a vivid picture of the incessant struggle of pioneer life.  It brings out especially the qualities of buoyancy and cheerfulness that helped to make conquest possible.  Hearing Mrs. Wilson's story, in her own words, we come to know her well, long before she and her family are driven out of Sacramento by the flood.  She reveals herself in every word and act.  Yet, curiously enough, notwithstanding her ability to paint the scene and to sketch casual characters, we learn from her very little about her husband and her children.  Nor is there any intimation of what went before or what came after these few years of emigration and pioneering.</HI>
089.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of what came before, little enquiry is necessary.  It was undoubtedly the same story, in general outline, as that of hundreds of other families--restless prairie farming.  And the sequel we know to some extent--establishment in moderate economic security with more and more means and leisure for cultivated enjoyment as time went on.  There is no need for elaboration upon the themes of these earlier and later periods--the dramatic quality was crowded into the central portion.</HI>
089.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">One is concerned, however, with a few facts; especially as the narrative touches the foundations of California history.  Although not once does Mrs. Wilson think to mention her husband's name, we have a natural desire to know something of him.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm: Mason Wilson <HI REND="italics">, and in one of the "blocks" is shown the Wilson house.  It is at about the site of the brick building which now stands on the corner of Davis Street and Main Street, just where the latter turns across the bridge over Ulattis Creek.  This land was formerly part of a grant to Manuel Vaca.  At precisely what date the Wilsons acquired it, is not known, but it must have been very soon after their arrival.  It is not entirely clear from Mrs. Wilson's narrative whether that was in the spring of 1851 or 1852.  The fire that destroyed Nevada City was in March 1851, and, although that does not allow full eighteen months for their residence there, it seems to agree with other statements in the story and establish 1851 as the date of their settling at Vacaville.</HI>
089.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The records of Solano County show that Mason Wilson, farmer, of Vacaville, was born in Kentucky about 1807.  He was, accordingly, forty-two years old when he came to California.  His wife, Luzena, was some fourteen years younger.  We may picture her, therefore, as about twenty-eight at the time of the journey.  The two children who came with them were Thomas, about three, and Jay, less than a year old.  Two other children were born in Vacaville--Mason, in 1855, and Correnah, in 1857.</HI>
089.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">In the</HI>
089.sgm: Alta California <HI REND="italics"> of July 17, 1860, a traveler writes of his tour through Solano County.  He tells of Vaca's land, now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm: Mrs. Wilson!  <HI REND="italics"> I am quite sure that Mrs. Wilson would not have protested against this omission--in fact, she would doubtless have deprecated any mention of the part she played in the founding of the town of Vacaville.  Fortunately, however, in the narrative preserved by her daughter, we have sufficient testimony to establish the fact that her part was not merely one of "feminine influence."  It was that, of course; but it was also just as vigorous and physically productive as that of any miner, farmer, teamster, or builder.  After reading these reminiscences, we hasten to correct the statement of the</HI>
089.sgm: Alta's <HI REND="italics"> correspondent and declare that whereas, on the bank of the creek at Vacaville, Mr. Wilson built an inn,</HI>
089.sgm: Mrs. Wilson <HI REND="italics"> ran it.</HI>
089.sgm:<P>San Francisco, California</P>
089.sgm:<P>April, 1937.</P>
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089.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>Chapter One</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P>The gold excitement spread like wildfire, even out to our log cabin in the prairie, and as we had almost nothing to lose, and we might gain a fortune, we early caught the fever.  My husband grew enthusiastic and wanted to start immediately, but I would not be left behind.  I thought where he could go I could, and where I went I could take my two little toddling babies.  Mother-like, my first thought was of my children.  I little realized then the task I had undertaken.  If I had, I think I should still be in my log cabin in Missouri.  But when we talked it all over, it sounded like such a small task to go out to California, and once there fortune, of course, would come to us.</P>
089.sgm:<P>It was the work of but a few days to collect our forces for the march into the new country, and we never gave a thought to selling our section, but left it, with two years' labor, for the next comer.  Monday we were to be off.  Saturday we looked over our belongings, and threw aside what was not absolutely necessary.  Beds we must have, and something to eat.  It was a strange <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>Well, on that Monday morning, bright and early, we were off.  With the first streak of daylight my last cup of coffee boiled in the wide fire-place, and the sun was scarcely above the horizon when we were on the road to California.  The first day's slow jogging brought us to the Missouri River, over which we were ferried in the twilight, and our first camp fire was lighted in Indian Territory, which spread in one unbroken, unnamed waste from the Missouri River to the border line of California.  Here commenced my terrors.  Around us in every direction were groups of Indians sitting, standing, and on horseback, as many as two hundred in the camp.  I had read and heard whole volumes of their bloody deeds, the massacre of harmless white men, torturing helpless women, carrying away captive innocent babes.  I felt my children the most precious in the wide world, and I lived in an agony of dread that first night.  The Indians were friendly, of course, and swapped ponies for whisky and tobacco with the gathering bands of emigrants, but I, in the most tragi-comic manner, sheltered my babies with my own body, and felt imaginary arrows pierce my flesh a hundred times during the night.  At last the morning broke, and we were off.  I strained my eyes with watching, held my breath in suspense, and all day long listened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>The traveler who flies across the continent in palace cars, skirting occasionally the old emigrant road, may think that he realizes the trials of such a journey.  Nothing but actual experience will give one an idea of the plodding, unvarying monotony, the vexations, the exhaustive energy, the throbs of hope, the depths of despair, through which we lived.  Day after day, week after week, we went through the same weary routine of breaking camp at daybreak, yoking the oxen, cooking our meagre rations over a fire of sage-brush and scrub-oak; packing up again, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>In strange contrast was the North Platte which we next crossed, a boiling, seething, turbulent stream, which foamed and whirled as if enraged at the imprisoning banks.  Two days we spent at its edge, devising ways and means.  Finally huge sycamore trees were felled and pinned with wooden pins into the semblance of a raft, on which we were floated across where an eddy in the current touched the opposite banks.  And so, all the way, it was a road strewn with perils, over a strange, wild country.  Sometimes over wide prairies, grass-grown, and deserted save by the startled herds of buffalo and eld; sometimes through deep, wild can&tilde;ons, where the mosses were like a carpet beneath our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>Everything was at first weird and strange in those days, but custom made us regard the most unnatural events as usual.  I remember even yet with a shiver the first time I saw a man buried without the formality of a funeral and the ceremony of coffining.  We were sitting by the camp fire, eating breakfast, when I saw two men digging and watched them with interest, never dreaming their melancholy object until I saw them bear from their tent the body of their comrade, wrapped in a soiled gray blanket, and lay it on the ground.  Ten minutes later the soil was filled in, and in a short half hour the caravan moved on, leaving the lonely stranger asleep in the silent wilderness, with only the winds, the owls, and the coyotes to chant a dirge.  Many an unmarked grave lies by the old emigrant road, for hard work and privation made wild ravages in the ranks of the pioneers, and brave souls gave up the battle and lie there forgotten, with not even a stone to note the spot where they sleep the unbroken, dreamless sleep of death.  There was no time then to wait, no time to mourn over friend or kindred, no time for anything but the ceaseless march for gold.</P>
089.sgm:<P>There was not time to note the great natural wonders that lay along the route.  Some one would speak of a remarkable valley, a group of cathedral-like rocks, some mineral springs, a salt basin, but we never deviated from the direct route to see them.  Once as we halted near the summit of the Rocky Mountains for our "nooning", digging through three or four inches of soil we found a stratum of firm, clear ice, six or eight inches in thickness, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>After a time the hard traveling and worse roads told on our failing oxen, and one day my husband said to me, "Unless we can lighten the wagon we shall be obliged to drop out of the train, for the oxen are about to give out."  So we looked over our load, and the only things we found we could do without were three sides of bacon and a very dirty calico apron which we laid out by the roadside.  We remained all day in camp, and in the meantime  I discovered my stock of lard was out.  Without telling my husband, who was hard at work mending the wagon, I cut up the bacon, tried out the grease, and had my lard can full again.  The apron I looked at twice and thought it would be of some use yet if clean, and with the aid of the Indian soap-root, growing around the camp, it became quite a respectable addition to my scanty wardrobe.  The next day the teams, refreshed by a whole day's rest and good grazing, seemed as well as ever, and my husband told me several times what a "good thing it was we left those things; that the oxen seemed to travel as well again".</P>
089.sgm:<P>Long after we laughed over the remembrance of that day, and his belief that the absence of the three pieces of bacon and the dirty apron could work such a change.</P>
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089.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Two</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P>Our long tramp had extended over three months when we entered the desert, the most formidable of all the difficulties we had encountered.  It was a forced march over the alkali plain, lasting three days, and we carried with us the water that had to last, for both men and animals, till we reached the other side.  The hot earth scorched our feet; the grayish dust hung about us like a cloud, making our eyes red, and tongues parched, and our thousand bruises and scratches smart like burns.  The road was lined with the skeletons of the poor beasts who had died in the struggle.  Sometimes we found the bones of men bleaching beside their broken-down and abandoned wagons.  The buzzards and coyotes, driven away by our presence from their horrible feasting, hovered just out of reach.  The night that we camped in the desert my husband came to me with the story of the "Independence Company".  They, like hundreds of others had given out on the desert; their mules gone, many of their number dead, the party broken up, some gone back to Missouri, two of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>It was a hard march over the desert.  The men were tired out goading on the poor oxen which seemed ready to drop at every step.  They were covered with a thick coating of dust, even to the red tongues which hung from their mouths swollen with thirst and heat.  While we were yet five miles from the Carson River, the miserable beasts seemed to scent the freshness in the air, and they raised their heads and traveled briskly.  When only a half mile of distance intervened, every animal seemed spurred by an invisible imp.  They broke into a run, a perfect stampede, and refused to be stopped until they had plunged neck deep in the refreshing flood; and when they were unyoked, they snorted, tossed their heads, and rolled over and over in the water in their dumb delight.  It would have been pathetic had it not been so funny, to see those poor, patient, overworked, hard-driven beasts, after a journey of two thousand miles, raise heads and tails and gallop at full speed, an emigrant wagon with flapping sides jolting at their heels.  At last we were near our journey's end.  We had reached the summit of the Sierra, and had begun the tedious journey down the mountain side.  A more cheerful look came to every face; every step lightened; every heart beat with new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>A day or two before, this man was one of us; today, he was a messenger from another world, and a stranger, so much influence does clothing have on our feelings and intercourse with our fellow men.  It was almost dusk of the last day of September, 1849, that we reached the end of our journey in Sacramento.  My poor tired babies were asleep on the mattress in the bottom of the wagon, and I peered out into the gathering gloom, trying to catch a glimpse of our destination.  The night before I had cooked my supper on the camp fire, as usual, when a hungry miner, attracted by the unusual sight of a woman, said to me, "I'll give you five dollars, ma'am, for them biscuit."  It sounded like a fortune to me, and I looked at him to see if he meant it.  And as I hesitated at such, to me, a very remarkable proposition, he repeated his offer to purchase, and said he would give ten dollars for bread made by a woman, and laid the shining gold piece in my hand.  I made some more biscuit for my family, told my husband of my good fortune, and put the precious coin away as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>We halted in an open space, and lighting our fire in their midst made us one with the inhabitants of Sacramento.</P>
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089.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Three</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P>The daylight woke us next morning to the realization that if we were to accomplish anything we must be up and stirring.  The world around us was all alive.  Camp fires crackled, breakfast steamed, and long lines of mules and horses, packed with provisions, filed past on their way out from what was already called a city.  The three or four wooden buildings and the zinc banking house, owned by Sam Brannan, looked like solid masonry beside the airy canvas structures which gleamed in the October sunshine like cloud pictures.  There was no credit in '49 for men, but I was a woman with two children, and I might have bought out the town with no security other than my word.  My first purchase was a quart of molasses for a dollar, and a slice of salt pork as large as my hand, for the same price.  That pork, by-the-by, was an experience.  When it went into the pan it was as innocent looking pork as I ever saw, but no sooner did it touch the fire than it pranced, it sizzled, frothed over the pan, sputtered, crackled, and acted as if possessed.  When finally it subsided, there was left a shaving the size of a dollar, and my pork had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>Half the inhabitants kept stores; a few barrels of flour, a sack or two of yams, a keg of molasses, a barrel of salt pork, another of corned beef (like redwood in texture) some gulls' eggs from the Farallones, a sack of onions, a few picks and shovels, and a barrel of whisky, served for a stock in trade, while a board laid across the head of a barrel answered for a counter.  On many counters were scales, for coin was rare, and all debts were paid in gold dust at sixteen dollars per ounce.  In the absence of scales a pinch of dust was accepted as a dollar, and you may well imagine the size of the pinch very often varied from the real standard.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>After two or three days in Sacramento we sold our oxen, and with the proceeds, six hundred dollars, we bought an interest in the hotel kept in one of the wooden houses, a story-and-a-half building which stood on what is now known as K Street, near Sixth, close to what was then the Commercial Exchange, Board of Trade, and Chamber of Commerce, all in one "The Horse Market".  The hotel we bought consisted of two rooms, the kitchen, which was my special province, and the general living room, the first room I had entered in Sacramento.  I thought I had already grown accustomed to the queer scenes around me, but that first glimpse into a Sacramento hotel was a picture which only loss of memory can efface.  Imagine a long room, dimly lighted by dripping tallow candles stuck into whisky bottles, with bunks built from floor to ceiling on either side.  A bar with rows of bottles and glasses was in one corner, and two or three miners were drinking; the barkeeper dressed in half sailor, half vaquero fashion, with a blue shirt rolled far back at the collar to display the snowy linen beneath, and his waist encircled by a flaming scarlet sash, was in commanding tones subduing their noisy demands, for the barkeeper, next to the stage-driver, was in early days the most important man in camp.  In the opposite corner of the room some men were having a wordy dispute over a game of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Four</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P>It was a motley crowd that gathered every day at my table but always at my coming the loud voices were hushed, the swearing ceased, the quarrels stopped, and deference and respect were as readily and as heartily tendered me as if I had been a queen.  I was a queen.  Any woman who had a womanly heart, who spoke a kindly, sympathetic word to the lonely, homesick men, was a queen, and lacked no honor which a subject could bestow.  Women were scarce in those days.  I lived six months in Sacramento and saw only two.  There may have been others, but I never saw them.  There was no time for visiting or gossiping; it was hard work from daylight till dark, and sometimes long after, and I nodded to my neighbor and called out "Good morning" as each of us hung the clothes out to dry on the lines.  Yes, we worked; we did things that our high-toned servants would now look at aghast, and say it was impossible for a woman to do.  But the one who did not work in '49 went to the wall.  It was a hand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>Many a miserable unfortunate, stricken down by the horrors of scurvy or Panama fever, died in his lonely, deserted tent, and waited days for the hurrying crowd to bestow the rites of burial.  It has been a life-long source of regret to me that I grew hard-hearted like the rest.  I was hard-worked, hurried all day, and tired out, but I might have stopped sometimes for a minute to heed the moans which caught my ears from the canvas house next to me.  I knew a young man lived there, for he had often stopped to say "Good morning", but I thought he had friends in the town; and when I heard his weak calls for water I never thought but some one gave it.  One day the moans ceased, and, on looking in, I found him lying dead with not even a friendly hand to close his eyes.  Many a time since, when my own boys have been wandering in new countries have I wept for the sore heart of that poor boy's mother, and I have prayed that if ever want and sickness came to mine, some other woman would be more tender than I had been, and give them at least a glass of cold water.</P>
089.sgm:<P>We lived two months in the "Trumbow House", then sold our interest in it for a thousand dollars in dust, and left it, moving a few doors below on K Street.  The street was always full of wagons and pack-mules; five hundred would often pass in a day packed heavily with picks, shovels, camp-kettles, gum-boots, and provisions for the miners.  A fleet of schooners and sloops anchored at the river bank was always unloading the freight from San Francisco.  Steam-vessels had not yet plowed the muddy waters of the Sacramento.  When one of these slow-moving schooners brought the Eastern mails there was excitement in the town.  For the hour all work was suspended, and every man dropped into line to ask in turn for letters from home.  Sometimes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>One of the institutions of '49, which more than filled the place of our present local telegraphic and telephonic systems, was the "Town Crier".  Every pioneer must remember his gaunt form, unshaven face, and long, unkempt hair, and his thin bobtailed, sorrel Mexican pony, and the clang of his bell as he rode through the streets and cried his news.  Sometimes he announced a "preaching", or a "show", "mail in", an "auction", or a "stray".  Another of the features of the city was the horse market to which I have already alluded.  A platform was built facing what was only by courtesy called the street, and from his elevation every day rang out the voice of the auctioneer and around it gathered the men who came to buy or sell.  The largest trade of the day was in live stock.  The miners who came down with dust <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>The population of Sacramento was largely a floating one.  Today there might be ten thousand people in the town, and tomorrow four thousand of them might be on their way to the gold fields.  The immigrants came pouring in every day from the plains, and the schooners from San Francisco brought a living freight, eager to be away to the mountains.</P>
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089.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Five</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P>There was not much lumber in Sacramento, and what little there was, and the few wooden houses, came in ships around the Horn from Boston.  The great majority of the people lived like ourselves in houses made of canvas, and with natural dirt floors.  The furniture was primitive: a stove (of which there always seemed plenty), a few cooking vessels, a table made of unplaned boards, two or three boxes which answered for chairs, and a bunk built in the corner to hold our mattresses and blankets.  One of the articles on which great profit was made was barley, and my husband had invested our little fortune of a thousand dollars in that commodity at fifteen cents a pound, and this lay piled at the wind side of the house as an additional protection.  The first night we spent in our new home it rained, and we slept with a cotton umbrella, a veritable pioneer, spread over our heads to keep off the water.  For days it rained incessantly; the streets ran full of water.  Men and animals struggled through a sea of mud.  We wrung out our blankets every morning, and warmed them by the fire--they never had time to dry.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>At last the clouds broke, the sun shone out, the rain ceased, and the water began to sink away and give us a glimpse of mother earth, and everybody broke out into smiles and congratulations over the change.  One afternoon late, about Christmas--I do not remember the exact day--as I was cooking supper and the men were coming in from work, the familiar clang of the Crier's bell was heard down the street, and, as he galloped past, the cry, "The levee's broke" fell on our ears.  We did not realize what that cry foretold, but knew that it was a misfortune that was mutual, and one that every man must fight; so my husband ran like the rest to the Point, a mile or more away up the American River, where the temporary sand-bag barrier had given way.  Every man worked with beating heart and hurrying breath to save the town, but it was useless; their puny strength could do nothing against such a flood of waters.  At every moment the breech grew wider, and the current stronger, and they hastened back to rescue the threatened property.  In the meantime I went on cooking supper, the children played about on the floor, and I stepped every minute to the door and looked up the street for some one to come back to tell me of the break.</P>
089.sgm:<P>While I stood watching, I saw tiny rivulets trickling over the ground, and behind them came the flood of waters in such a volume that it had not time to spread, but seemed like a little wall three or four inches high.  Almost before I thought what it was, the water rushed against the door-sill at my feet and in five minutes more it rose over this small obstacle and poured on the floor.  I snatched up the children, and put them on the bed, and hastily gathered up the articles which I feared the water might reach.  The water kept rising, and I concluded to carry my children into the hotel, which we had lately sold, and which stood some three or four feet above the ground.  I put them inside the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>The place where we had taken refuge was one long room, a half story with a window at each end; and here for several days lived forty people.  There was one other woman besides myself and my two children; all the rest were men.  For provisions, we caught the sacks of onions or boxes of anything which went floating by, or fished up with boat-hooks whatever we could.  The fire by which we cooked was built of driftwood.  Those were days of terror and fear, for at every minute we expected to follow the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>Many an occurrence of those terrible days would have been funny, had we not been so filled with fear, and had not tragedy trodden so closely on the heels of comedy.  Heroic actions went unnoticed and uncounted.  Every man was willing, and many times did risk his life to aid his neighbor.  Many a poor fellow doubtless found his death in the waters, and his grave far out at sea, perhaps in the lonely marshes which lined the river banks.  There were few close ties and few friendships; and when a familiar face dropped out no one knew whether the man was dead or gone away; nobody inquired, nobody cared.  The character of the pioneers was a paradox.  They were generous to a degree which we can scarcely realize, yet selfish beyond parallel.</P>
089.sgm:<P>One of the numerous queer accessories of our flood-surrounded household was the gentlemen's dressing-room.  If there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>The fastenings of the canvas of our house had broken away, but by some good fortune it still clung to the slender scantlings, so we had the beginnings of a house.  Between the supports had gathered great piles of drift-wood and the carcasses of several animals; in one corner lay our rusty stove, the whole covered with slime and sediment.  My husband cleared out the small enclosure, fastened down the canvas walls, and built a floating floor, which rose and sank with the tide, and at every footstep the water splashed up through the open cracks.  We walked on a plank from the floor to the beds, under which hung great sheets of mould.  At night, when I awoke, I reached down the bed-post till my hand touched the water, and if it had risen above a certain notch, we got up and packed our movables, in preparation for a new misfortune; if it was still below the notch, we went to sleep again.  A boat was tied always at the door, ready to carry us away, and we lived in this way for six weeks in constant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>No attempt had been made to ward off the effects of so fearful and powerful an enemy, and the survivors were left, as we were, adrift without a dollar.  When the mule trains began to move again, the poor beasts would flounder out of one hole into another, miring sometimes half up to their sides, and would be packed and unpacked half a dozen times in the length of as many blocks.  Our little fortune of barley was gone--the sacks had burst and the grain had sprouted--and ruin stared us again in the face.  We were terrified at the awful termination of the winter, and I felt that I should never again be safe unless high in the Sierra.  A new excitement came whispered down from the mountains, that they had "struck it rich" at Nevada City--for every group of three or four tents was called a city--so we made up our minds that we would try the luck of the new mining camp.  But how to get there?  That was the question.  We had neither money nor wagons, and apparently no way to get them.  Finally we found a man with an idle team, who said he would take us, that is myself and the two children, and a stove and two sacks of flour, to Nevada City for seven hundred dollars.  This looked hopeless, and I told him I guessed we wouldn't go as we had no money.  I must have carried my honesty in my face, for he looked at me a minute and said, "I'll take you, Ma'am, if you will go security for the money."  I promised him it should be paid, "if I lived, and we made the money".  So, pledged to a new master, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>The winter rains and melting snows had saturated the earth like a sponge, and the wagon and oxen sunk like lead in the sticky mud.  Sometimes a whole day was consumed in going two or three miles, and one day we made camp but a quarter of a mile distant from the last.  The days were spent in digging out both animals and wagon, and the light of the camp fire was utilized to mend the broken bolts and braces.  We built the fire at night close by the wagon, under which we slept, for it had no cover.  To add to the miseries of the trip it rained, and one night when the wagon was mired, and we could not shelter under it, we slept with our feet pushed under it and the old cotton umbrella spread over our faces.  Sometimes, as we went down the mountains, they were so steep we tied great trees behind to keep the wagon from falling over the oxen; and once when the whole surface of the mountain side was a smooth, slippery rock, the oxen stiffened out their legs, and wagon and all literally slid down a quarter of a mile.  But the longest way has an end.  At last we caught the glimmer of the miners' huts far down in the gulch and reached the end of our journey.</P>
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089.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Six</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P>From the brow of a steep mountain we caught the first glimpse of a mining camp.  Nevada City, a row of canvas tents lining each of the two ravines, which, joining, emptied into Deer Creek, lay at our feet, flooded with the glory of the spring sunshine.  The gulches seemed alive with moving men.  Great, brawny miners wielded the pick and shovel, while others stood knee deep in the icy water, and washed the soil from the gold.  Every one seemed impelled by the frenzy of fever as men hurried here and there, so intent upon their work they had scarcely time to breathe.  Our entrance into the busy camp could not be called a triumphal one, and had there been a "back way" we should certainly have selected it.  Our wagon wheels looked like solid blocks; the color of the oxen was indistinguishable, and we were mud from head to foot.  I remember filling my wash-basin three times with fresh water before I had made the slightest change apparent in the color of my face; and I am sure I scrubbed till my arms ached, before I got the children back to their natural <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>I determined to set up a rival hotel.  So I bought two boards from a precious pile belonging to a man who was building the second wooden house in town.  With my own hands I chopped stakes, drove them into the ground, and set up my table.  I bought provisions at a neighboring store, and when my husband came back at night he found, mid the weird light of the pine torches, twenty miners eating at my table.  Each man as he rose put a dollar in my hand and said I might count him as a permanent customer.  I called my hotel "El Dorado".</P>
089.sgm:<P>From the first day it was well patronized, and I shortly after took my husband into partnership.  The miners were glad to get something to eat, and were always willing to pay for it.  As in Sacramento, goods of all kinds sold at enormous figures, but, as no one ever hesitated to buy on that account, dealers made huge profits.  The most rare and costly articles of luxury were fruits <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>The "Coyote Diggings", for that was the early name of the Nevada City placer mines, were very rich in coarse gold, and money came pouring into the town.  Everybody had money, and everybody spent it.  Money ran through one's fingers like water through a sieve.  The most profitable employment of the time was gambling, and fifty or sixty of the men who pursued the profession were guests at my table.  Many of them made fortunes and retired into a quieter and less notorious life.  Of them all I can now remember only one--Billy Briggs, who has grown to prominence in San Francisco.  I see him now, portly, swarthy, and complacent, and wonder what has become of the slender, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>It was such a circumstance as this which raised the first mob in Nevada City.  So far as I ever learned, I was their only victim.  One night I was sitting quietly by the kitchen fire, alone.  My husband was away at Marysville, attending court.  Suddenly I heard low knocks on the boards all round the house.  Then I heard from threatening voices the cry, "Burn the house."  I looked out of the window and saw a crowd of men at the back of the house.  I picked up the candle and went into the dining room.  At every window I caught sight of faces pressed against the glass.  I hurried to the front, where the knocking was loudest and the voices were most uproarious.  Terrified almost to death, I opened the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>The doctors were busy then, for there were hundreds of men sick and dying from cold and exposure.  Indeed, every profession found employment, except the clerical, for it was not yet settled enough at the "Coyote" to require the services of a pastor.  Every man was too busy thinking of the preservation of his body to think of saving his soul; and the unfortunates who did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>There was no place of deposit for money, and the men living in the house dropped into the habit of leaving their dust with me for safe keeping.  At times I have had a larger amount of money in my charge than would furnish capital for a country bank.  Many a night have I shut my oven door on two milk-pans filled high with bags of gold dust, and I have often slept with my mattress literally lined with the precious metal.  At one time I must have had more than two hundred thousand dollars lying unprotected in my bedroom, and it never entered my head that it might be stolen.  The house had neither locks nor bolts, but, as there were no thieves, precautions were unnecessary.  I had a large, old-fashioned reticule hung behind my kitchen stove, where I put the money I had made by doing little pieces of sewing for the men.  In a month or two I had four or five hundred dollars saved and was thinking of lending it, for interest was very high.  But one day I missed the bag.  Of course there was a general search, and I found, at last, that my youngest son had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>My wardrobe was still a simple one.  For several years my best dress was a clean calico.  The first installments of genuine finery which came into the interior were crepe shawls and scarfs from the Chinese vessels which came to San Francisco.  But the feminine portion of the population was so small that there was no rivalry in dress or fashion, and every man thought every woman in that day a beauty.  Even I have had men come forty miles over the mountains, just to look at me, and I never was called a handsome woman, in my best days, even by my most ardent admirers.</P>
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089.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Seven</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P>After we had been in the town of Nevada City three or four months, the first ball was given.  There were twelve ladies present and about three hundred men.  The costumes were eccentric, or would be now.  At that time it was the prevailing fashion for the gentlemen to attend social gatherings in blue woolen shirts, and with trousers stuffed into boot-tops.  Every man was "heeled" with revolver and bowie-knife.  My own elaborate toilet for the occasion was a freshly ironed calico and a plaid shawl.  The dresses of the other ladies were similar.  A few days before the ball, word came into the town that a family of immigrants, including several grown young ladies, had moved into Grass Valley.  The news was hailed with rapture by the young men, and two of them, Messrs. Frinx and Blackman, prominent merchants, procured horses and rode over, with testimonials in hand, to engage the presence of the young ladies, if possible, for the forthcoming ball.  They were cordially received, and their request gracefully accorded.  On the day of the ball, they procured what they could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>There was nothing left for the discomfited beaux but to come back alone.  When they returned, they gave us a mournful description of their wild-goose chase.  They told us how, as they stepped into the room, the clothing on two beds gave a sudden jerk and exposed the symmetry of two pairs of feet.  They were at first mystified by the strange sight, but afterwards concluded that these were the dainty pedal extremities of their missing inamoratas.  However, the ball went on, notwithstanding the lessening in number of the expected ladies.  A number of the men tied handkerchiefs around their arms and airily assumed the character of ball-room belles.  Every lady was overwhelmed with attentions, and there was probably more enjoyment that night, on the rough pine floor and under the flickering gleam of tallow candles, than one often finds in our society drawing-rooms, where the rich silks trail over velvet carpets, where the air is heavy with the perfume of exotics, and where night is turned into a brighter day under the glare of countless gas-jets.</P>
089.sgm:<P>We had lived eighteen months in Nevada City when fire cut us adrift again, as water had done in Sacramento.  Some careless hand had set fire to a pile of pine shavings lying at the side of a house in course of construction, and while we slept, unconscious of danger, the flames caught and spread, and in a short half hour the whole town was in a blaze.  We were roused from sleep by the cry of "Fire, fire" and the clang of bells.  Snatching each a garment, we hurried out through blinding smoke and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>The mines around Nevada City were wonderfully rich.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>Nevada City sprung, Phoenix like, from its ashes and grew up a more substantial and permanent town and with more consideration for appearances.  The streets straightened themselves, the houses, like well-drilled soldiers, formed naturally into line.  The little city was more rushing and prosperous than ever.  The green valleys, however, seemed to offer us a pleasanter home, so we adhered to our plan of removal, and bade a rather sad farewell to the bright, spicy little snow-bound town where we had found so many friends.</P>
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089.sgm:<P>The road we followed back to Sacramento had greatly changed since we had traveled over it eighteen months before.  Where we had climbed up and down steep mountains, and cut down obstacles in our path, we now rose and descended by easy grades.  The woods, which had then closed around dark and thick, had been charred or burned away, and the giant arms, scorched and blackened, pointed out the new way.  Substantial bridges spanned the streams.  Every turn brought us face to face with wagons loaded high with building materials and supplies for the city of the mountains.  Instead of the twelve dragging days we spent in our first trip over this route, the journey was performed in two.  Instead of sleeping in discomfort on the cold, wet ground, we enjoyed the hospitality of a comfortable house, the property of Mr. James Anthony.</P>
089.sgm:<P>This hotel, at the crossing of Bear River was, for the times, something remarkable.  There for the first time in California I saw papered and painted walls.  The floors were covered with China matting, and the beds rejoiced in sheets and pillow-cases.  The carpeting was a real luxury, and I remember thinking if I could get a house carpeted with that beautiful covering I should scarcely care for anything else, for relief from the drudgery of scrubbing floors seemed the one thing worth living for.  It was a bachelor establishment, but, strange to say, was scrupulously clean and well conducted.  Had he known it, the genial proprietor might have resented my husband's speech to me, "Don't you think you had better go out and see if supper is all right?"</P>
089.sgm:<P>As we came down from the mountains we found the country stirred up with "squatter" troubles, rumors of which had reached us in Nevada.  As we neared Sacramento we found ourselves almost in the midst of them.  The trouble originated through the conflicting claims of the buyers and settlers.  Almost all the land, from some distance below Sacramento far up into the Shasta region, was claimed by Sutter under a Spanish grant; and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>There were many episodes at that time that would be more thrilling than romance.  One of the most talked of incidents was the killing of Sheriff McKenna at the house of William Allan, near Brighton.  Allan, who was supposed to be in league with the squatters, had been heard to make sympathizing remarks to and about them, and by his course had incurred the wrath of the officials.  A posse, headed by the sheriff returning from the funeral of the murdered mayor and assessor, rode out to arrest the suspected man.  They knocked at the door, and were told that Mrs. Allan was very sick, perhaps dying, and were requested to retire.  Allan promised to come to Sacramento and give himself up in the morning.  But during the discussion some one fired a pistol, whether intentionally or not was never known; and the guard, thinking someone was resisting the sheriff, broke open the doors and fired upon the occupants of the room, killing Allan's son and wounding the old man himself in two places.  A shot, inflicted by McKenna, wounded him in the right arm as he stood with revolver drawn.  The weapon fell, but the determined <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Eight</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P>When we reached Sacramento again we became undecided whether to go on toward the bay or to remain there.  In the meantime we took possession of a deserted hotel which stood on K Street.  This hotel was tenanted only by rats that galloped madly over the floor and made journeys from room to room through openings they had gnawed in the panels.  They seemed to have no apprehension of human beings and came and went as fearlessly as if we had not been there.  At that time Sacramento was infested with the horrible creatures.  They swarmed from the vessels lying at the wharves into the town and grew into a thriving colony which neither flood nor fire could subdue.  In the flood of '49 I had seen dozens of them collected upon every floating stick, or box, or barrel, and had seen men push them off into the water and watch them scramble back to another resting-place.  Every rope and board would be alive with them.  They ran backward and forward across the chains that held the vessels to the piers.  All of them seemed to have survived the second flood as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>Sacramento had very greatly changed since our departure after the flood of '49.  We had left the town covered with slime and mud; with dirty canvases clinging to broken poles; with festering carcasses in the streets; with drift-wood caught at every obstructing point; with yawning mudholes at every corner; with floundering teams and miring wagons everywhere to be seen.  We had left it full of men with broken fortunes, with long faces and empty pockets.  A second flood had come and gone and the city, newly risen from the waters, was built up along broad, graded streets, with large airy, well-built houses.  Brick and mortar had taken the place of canvas and shakes.  Sidewalks gave the pedestrian security against dust and mud.  Well-stocked stores of dry goods, groceries, and hardware had taken the place of the redwood board over the barrel-head.  An enterprising daguerreotypist had set up his sign in the city, and was doing a rushing business at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>On the day of a bull fight, or a mustang race, the sporting population turned out <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
089.sgm:, and the victory or defeat of Chiquita or Rag-tailed Billy, made their respective owners rich or poor, for no man ever hesitated to bet his bottom dollar on his own horse.  I have seen them come home sometimes bootless, coatless, hatless, from the track, having parted with those articles as the exigencies of the race demanded, and when they handed over their red sashes and silver-plated, chain-decked spurs, the struggle was like the severing of soul and body.  Sometimes the losing turfman shot his defeated horse, as a sort of sedative to his irritated feelings.  The streets were lined with gambling houses and whisky shops.  Every second door on J Street led to a faro <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>A young man walking down the street was attracted by a street brawl among the gamblers, an occurrence so frequent that had it not been for the manifest injustice of one man being assailed by two, it would have passed unnoticed.  As it was, he generously interfered, separated the combatants and released the weaker party.  Enraged at the uncalled for obtrusion, one of the young ruffians fired upon the intruder, inflicting a mortal wound.  Scarcely was the deed committed before the gathering crowd, mad with rage, demanded the murderer's life.  The officers whirled away the malefactor, and for lack of another stronghold, confined him in the basement of a brick building of private ownership, pending trial.  But as the morning wore on, the fury of the populace grew hotter, and their always existing hatred of the gamblers grew into an ungovernable passion at the one against whom they had a clue.  They refused to listen to the advocates of the law.  The mob were quick about it.  They broke open the improvised jail and dragged the criminal from his prison.</P>
089.sgm:<P>It must have been two o'clock at night when I was startled by the tramp of feet passing by the door.  I ran to look and the glimmer of the torches carried by the muttering men revealed in their midst the figure of the murderer.  He seemed frozen with terror, his knees knocked together, and his legs refused to support him.  He was carried by the men on either side of him.  His eyes were starting from their sockets, his face was ghastly, his lips <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>We lingered a month or more in Sacramento, undecided what to do, but finally our interest was again strongly attracted to the valley, and, our tastes and former habits being somewhat agricultural, we determined to move on.  The tules barred our direct way, stretching in a broad water covered sheet from the Sacramento River ten miles in to land.  We could not swim our teams across, as I have known Jerome Davis and his fellow stock-traders to swim their bands of cattle and wire mustangs, so we drove up the river to the ferry, now known as Knight's Landing, and there we crossed over in a flat bottomed ferry-boat.</P>
089.sgm:<P>The plain from the river bank to the mountains was a sheet of waving grass and bright-hued wild flowers, trackless and unenclosed.  The fresh spring breezes fanned our faces and invigorated our bodies; the calmness and silence of the wide prairie <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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089.sgm:<P>Our location was close by a tiny spring-fed stream, near the most frequented route from the upper country to Benicia.  The shade of a wide-spreading oak afforded us a pleasant shelter from the sunshine, and at night we slept in a tent improvised from the boughs and canvas cover of our wagon.  We were fascinated by the beauty of the little valley which already bore the name of Vaca from the Spanish owner of the grant within the limits of which it lay.  The green hills smiled down on us through their sheeny veil of grass.  The great oak trees, tall and stately, bent down their friendly arms as if to embrace us; the nodding oats sang a song of peace and plenty to the music of the soft wind; the inquisitive wild flowers, peeping up with round, wide opened eyes from the edge of every foot-path bade us stay.  We made up our minds, if possible, to buy land and settle.</P>
089.sgm:<P>We were again almost penniless, and we felt that we must get to work and begin to lay by something. </P>
089.sgm:<P>It was early spring time, and the wild oats, growing all about us in such rank profusion, seemed to say, "Here is food and drink and clothing."  Hay was selling in San Francisco at a hundred and fifty dollars a ton, so my husband, leaving me to my own resources, set hard at work cutting and making hay; and I, as before, set up my stove and camp kettle and hung out my sign, printed with a charred fire-brand on a piece of board, WILSON'S HOTEL.  The accommodations were, perhaps, scanty, but were hailed with delight by the traveling public, which had heretofore lunched or dined on horseback at full gallop, or lain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>There we lived for the whole summer, six months or more without other shelter than the canvas wagon-cover at night and the roof of green leaves by day.  Housekeeping was not difficult then, no fussing with servants or house-cleaning, no windows to wash or carpets to take up.  I swept away the dirt with a broom of willow switches, and the drawing room where I received my company was "all out doors".  When the dust grew inconvenient under foot, we moved the cook stove and table around to the other side of the tree and began over again.  A row of nails driven close in the tree trunk held my array of culinary utensils and the polished tin cups which daily graced my table, and a shelf held the bright tin plates from which we ate.  No crystal or French decorated egg-shell china added care to my labors.  Notwithstanding the lack of modern appliances and conveniences, my hotel had the reputation of being the best on the route from Sacramento to Benicia.  The men who came and went up and down the country, and ate frequently at my table, used often to compliment me upon the good cheer which they always found provided, and by pleasing contrast, told stories of the meals they sometimes got at other places.  I remember one morning having eight or ten at breakfast, and they vied with each other in relating tales of the poor breakfasts they had eaten.  But <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>My nearest American neighbors were Mr. John Wolfskill, and Mr. and Mrs. Mat. Wolfskill, who lived twelve miles away, on the banks of Putah Creek.  After I had been about six months in Vaca Valley, I concluded to ride over and get acquainted.  So one morning bright and early, after the breakfast was over, the dishes washed, and the housework finished, I saddled my horse with my husband's saddle (a side-saddle was unknown in those parts), packed a lunch, took a bottle of water, tied my two boys on behind me with a stout rope and started off.  I did not know the exact spot where my neighbors lived, but felt sure of finding them without trouble, as I had only to ride on across the plain until I struck the first stream, and follow it down.  There were no roads, so I could select my path as I pleased, taking care only to avoid as much as possible the bands of Spanish cattle which covered the whole country; they were dangerous to encounter, even mounted, and to any one on foot they were certain death.  We were riding rapidly through the scattered herds, when a sudden gust of wind took away the hat of one of the children, and as a hat was something precious and not easily procured at that time, we must stop and get it.  I should hardly have been able to descend and remount without attracting the notice of the cattle by the fluttering of my dress, and then a stampede would inevitably have followed; so I constructed a stirrup of handkerchiefs; then my little boy clambered down and climbed up again, in the face of the tossing heads, red eyes and spreading horns all about us.</P>
089.sgm:<P>At ten o'clock we arrived at a house thatched with tule, and, seeing a man sitting near it, we stopped to ask, "Does Mr. Wolfskill live here?"</P>
089.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>"My name's Wolfskill," was the reply, "but there ain't no mister to it."</P>
089.sgm:<P>I began to introduce myself, when he cut short my speech with, "Git down, git down.  I know you.  I got a drink at your well yesterday.  Git down."</P>
089.sgm:<P>It was not a ceremonious greeting, but it was intended to be a cordial one, and the entire visit proved to be very satisfactory.  Mrs. Wolfskill, good woman, was as delighted to find an English-speaking neighbor as I was myself and gave me a hearty welcome.  That day saw the commencement of a real friendship between us, which ended only with her death; and thereafter, at short intervals, we rode across the plain to exchange friendly visits, until every vaquero on the grant knew us, and saluted us as we passed with a polite, " <HI REND="italics">Buenas Dias, senora</HI>
089.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Nine</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P>Our nearest neighbors were the members of the Spanish colony, who lived only three-quarters of a mile away, in the little Laguna Valley.  The lord of the soil, the original owner of all the land included in the grant on which we lived, was Manuel Vaca, and around him clustered the Spanish population of great or lesser note.  Some of their adobe houses still remain, in unpleasing, barren, squalid desolation, a rude and fast-decaying monument to the vanished grandeur of Spanish California, and a shelter to American settlers of even less energy and enterprise than the "greasers".  About us in all directions roamed herds of cattle and droves of mustangs, which constituted the wealth of the settlement and a whole day's hard riding about the grant would not reveal half the extent of their four-footed possessions.  Even at that early day some portions of the original grant had already passed from Vaca to American owners.  Today of all that great body of fertile valley and leagues of pasture land scarcely more than two or three hundred acres can be found in the possession of his heirs.</P>
089.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>The Mexican character of slothfulness and procrastination assisted materially to undermine their financial stability, and they succumbed to the strategy and acuteness of the American trader.  It was but a few years till the proud rulers of the valley were the humblest subjects of the new monarchs, reduced from affluence almost to beggary by too greatly trusted Yankees.</P>
089.sgm:<P>At the time we arrived in the valley, however, the "greaser" element, as it has since been called, was in its pristine glory.  All the accompaniments of Spanish happiness were to be found in the small precinct occupied by their dwellings.  An army of vaqueros congregated every day about the settlement, smoked cigarettes, ran races, played cards for high stakes, and drank bad whisky in unlimited quantities.  The man of position felt proud of his patrician blood, and condescended when he addressed his surrounding inferiors.  He wore a broad sombrero, gold-laced jacket and wide bell-decked pantaloons, girt his waist with a flaming sash, wore jangling at his heels, large, clanking, silver spurs, swung a lariat with unerring aim, and in the saddle looked a centaur.  The belles of the valley coquetted with the brave riders, threw at them melting glances from their eyes, and whispered sweet nothings in the melodious Spanish tongue.  I was always treated with extreme consideration by the Spanish people, and they quite frequently invited me to participate in their dances and feasts, which they gave to celebrate their great occasions.  We had been in the valley only about two months, when Senor Vaca came riding over one morning to ask me, by the aid of an interpreter, to attend a ball to be given that night at his house.  I was quite unfamiliar with the manner and customs of the Spanish people, and my acceptance of the cordial and pressing invitation was prompted quite as much by curiosity as by my friendly feelings for my neighbors.</P>
089.sgm:<P>When we arrived at the adobe house the light streamed through open windows and doors far out into the night and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>The vaqueros who rode up and down about the country stopped often at our place, and were very kind and friendly.  Many a quarter of freshly killed beef or mutton, game caught in the valley, or birds snared in the mountains, found their way from their hands to my not over-well stocked larder.  Once they brought me a young elk, that I might have it about the place for a pet.  I was delighted with the gift, and took it out toward the corral, intending to keep it with the cows.  Imagine my surprise and consternation when, as I approached the gate, meek, patient old mulley, who had followed us across the plains and lived through fire and flood, lashed her tail from side to side, broke into a gallop, scaled an eight foot fence at a single bound and only stopped her frightened run when she was three miles from home.  After that I gave up my intention of adding an elk to my domestic collection of animals, and declined all further gifts of the kind.  The vaquero and his horse were inseparable; even while he drank his whisky at the roadside "deadfull" he retained his hold on the lariat of the horse grazing fifty feet away outside.  He ate, drank, and slept in the saddle; and even if he lay down under a tree for the night, the horse was in constant requisition for a breathless gallop across country after the stampeding cattle.</P>
089.sgm:<P>Toward the end of the summer months, as we began to look for the early rains, the matter of house-building absorbed all our attention.  Lumber was very scarce and very high in price, and all that we got was hauled from Benicia, a distance of thirty miles, and the greater part of our savings was used up in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>He walked straight to their cabin, and pushing aside the blanket hung for a door, found the intruders, six in number, sound asleep, and their guns standing loaded, ready for use, near at hand.  Slipping softly in, he secured the six guns, and then, covering the sleepers with his own weapon, waked them.  They were of course enraged but helpless, and at his command filed silently out of the cabin.  Then, still under the pitiless aim of that steady gun, they silently and unresistingly watched the demolition and removal of their mushroom house.  When the last stick of wood and scrap of material had been dragged away, the gun was lowered, and they were given a solemn warning never again to attempt the unlawful seizure of another man's property under pain of death.  The foiled squatters stormed and raved and vowed vengeance, but we were troubled no more by that party.  Others, with as little regard for the rights of property-owners, were ready to attempt, and did attempt, the same wholesale theft of land, but were disposed of in as summary a manner.  The trouble thus begun grew into a perfect war, in courts and out of courts.  Men who paid for their lands were determined to hold them at any cost, and everybody went armed to the teeth, ready to defend his claim.  The decisions of the Land Commissioners kept us in a state of continuous ferment, and for years we had not only a hard struggle to keep our land, but were in constant terror of the murderous shots of the infuriated men who desired to eject us.  The "squatters" were so much the topic of common conversation among us that even the children, left to invent their own amusements, used to play at being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>The capital of the State was removed to Benicia about the time that we moved to Vaca Valley, and that point being not far distant, we were on the route of constant travel, and among the men who stopped with us often were some who, even then, owned large tracts of land in the country, and many of whom have since become well known to the public, either through political position or great wealth.  Among them were Judge S. C. Hastings, who still lives in San Francisco, and who has since amassed a great fortune, a monument of energy and business shrewdness.  Judge Murray Morrison dispensed justice in our district courts; Judge Curry was the owner of a great deal of valuable property; Judge Wallace meted out punishment to offenders.  Mr. L. B. Mizner, who still lives in Benicia, was an early traveler; Mr. Paul Shirley and he were for years the most dashing beaux of the scattered young ladies of the upper country.</P>
089.sgm:<P>The map of the town of Vacaville had been filed some years before we settled there, but it was still some time before enough people came there to justify us in asking for a postoffice or giving the place its name.</P>
089.sgm:<P>The second Christmas of our stay I gave a dinner party, and invited all the Americans in the valley; even then I entertained only five guests.  My dinner party was considered very fine for the time.  My cook was a negro of the blackest hue, who had formerly cooked for some army officer, and was accustomed to skirmishing, as he expressed it.  The menu included onion soup, roast elk, a fricasse of lamb, boiled onions, the home-grown luxury of radishes, lettuce and parsley, dried-apple pies, and rice pudding.  Fowls were too rare and valuable to be sacrificed, as yet, to the table, and probably had they been killed would have defied mastication, for they were, like ourselves, pioneers.</P>
089.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Chapter Ten</HEAD>
089.sgm:<P>As time went on, we and our few neighbors began to wish for educational advantages for our children, and by paying double tuition for each child we managed to secure a teacher--sound in mind, but defective in body, he having lost a leg and an eye--to start a school in a little blue cotton house under a tree.  The trustees of this school of six pupils were Mr. Ed. McGary (he afterward moved to Green Valley and after amassing a substantial fortune, again to San Francisco where he still lives), Mr. Eugene Price (he died some years ago, a wealthy resident of Chicago) and my husband.  The canvas building was shortly replaced by a wooden structure and this in turn by a larger one; and the school thus started developed some years later into the Pacific Methodist College, which was for many years one of the foremost educational institutions of California.</P>
089.sgm:<P>For a good many years after we came to Vaca Valley there were not enough families in the immediate vicinity to induce a doctor to settle there.  Although the climate might safely be called the healthiest in the State, people once in a great while <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>The Spanish population gradually vanished before the coming immigration.  The thick-walled adobe houses, which sheltered under one roof horses and men, crumbled away and mingled with the dust.  The vaquero and his bands of Spanish cattle fled to wider ranges.  The plow turned the sod where the brilliant wild flowers had bloomed for ages undisturbed, and silken corn and golden wheat ripened in the little valley.  Year by year more acres of the fertile land were laid under cultivation.  The canvas tent was followed by a tiny, unpainted redwood cabin with a dirt floor, and that in turn by more pretentious homes.  It was years before the title of the land was established, and we were kept in continual commotion through the persistent efforts of squatters to obtain possession.  The surveys of the Spanish owners were very imperfect and caused a world of trouble and annoyance to their successors.  The usual mode of measurement in early days, before surveyors and surveying instruments were in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>The valley was settled principally by emigrants from Missouri and Arkansas, and they brought with them the shiftless ways of farming and housekeeping prevalent in the West and South, which have, in a measure, prevented the improvement and advancement that might have been expected from so fertile and productive a country.  I remember as an illustration of the principles of early housekeeping, being called to help take care of a neighbor who was very ill.  I sat up all night by the sick woman in company with another neighbor, a volunteer nurse.  Growing hungry toward morning we concluded to get breakfast, so I sent the daughter of the house, a girl of seventeen years, to bring me some cream to make biscuits.  She was gone a long time, and I waited with my hands in the flour for her to come back.  Finally she made her appearance with the cream, and when I asked the cause of the delay, she answered, "Well, old Bob was in the cream, and I had to stop and scrape him off".</P>
089.sgm:<P>To emphasize the statement, "old Bob", the cat, came in wet from his involuntary cream bath.  I made the bread with water that I pumped myself.  The out-door management of the men was as badly conducted as the indoor system of their wives.  A general air of dilapidation seemed to pervade and cling to the houses and barns of the farmer from the West.  He sat cross-legged on the fence and smoked a clay pipe in company with the "old woman", while the pigs and chickens rooted and scratched unmolested in his front garden.  The Western farmers still, in some few instances, hold possession, and from the highway as you pass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>We residents of Vaca Valley were an amusement-loving people in the early days of the settlement, and every few weeks saw a ball or party given, to which came all the younger portion of the surrounding families, and not seldom the town overflowed for the night with the buxom lads and lassies from thirty miles away.  The largest room in the town--usually my dining room--was cleared to make room for the dancers, and they danced hard and long until daylight, and often the bright sunlight saw the participants rolling away in spring wagons, or galloping off on horseback to their distant homes.  The costumes were, like the gatherings, quite unique; the ladies came in calico dresses and calf boots; a ribbon was unusual, and their principal ornaments <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>The stages which ran every day from Sacramento to Napa and Benicia brought with them a stream of travelers and many new settlers to the valley.  The arrival of the rattling, thundering old six-horse coach, with its load of grumbling, dusty passengers, and their accompanying poodle-dogs, canary birds, pet cats, parrots, Saratoga trunks and band-boxes, and the swaggering, self-important driver who handled the reins with consummate skill, and could only be bribed into amiability by frequent drinks, was the event of the day.  All the dogs of the village welcomed its advent and saluted its departure with a chorus of howls; the ragged urchins along the dusty roads waved their battered hats and shouted at the stolid passengers; the old farmer rode up on his slow cob to wait its coming; the inquisitive girls peeped around the corner to see if perchance a new masculine attraction might be left in the town.  With the stages went the rollicking, unassuming fun of the country, and with the railroads came in the aping of city airs and the following of city fashions.</P>
089.sgm:<P>For twenty-seven years I have called the little valley home, have watched with unfailing interest its growth and development.  But few years elapsed until Vacaville was the center of a thriving country; the farm produce found its nearest market at the village stores; orchards and vineyards were planted, found profitable, were enlarged, flourished, and are today a source of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<BACK><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
089.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
089.sgm:<P>500</P>
089.sgm:<P>COPIES DESIGNED &amp; PRINTED AT THE</P>
089.sgm:<P>EUCALYPTUS PRESS IN THE MONTH OF APRIL 1937</P>
089.sgm:<illus entity="a089-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW OF VACA VALLEY. [ <HI REND="italics">From an Ambrotype by McKown &amp; Bishop</HI>
090.sgm:<!DOCTYPE tei2 public "-//Library of Congress - Historical Collections (American Memory)//DTD ammem.dtd//EN"><TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-090</TITLE>
090.sgm:<TITLE>Sixteen months at the gold diggings.  By Daniel B. Woods: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
090.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
090.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
090.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
090.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
090.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
090.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
090.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-832</LCCN>
090.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
090.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
090.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>SIXTEEN MONTHS</P>
090.sgm:<P>AT THE</P>
090.sgm:<P>GOLD DIGGINGS.</P>
090.sgm:<P>BY</P>
090.sgm:<P>DANIEL B. WOODS.</P>
090.sgm:<P>NEW YORK:</P>
090.sgm:<P>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,</P>
090.sgm:<P>82 CLIFF STREET.</P>
090.sgm:<P>1851.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-one, by</P>
090.sgm:<P>LEONARD WOODS,</P>
090.sgm:<P>In the Office of the Clerk of the District Court of the Southern District of New York.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>IT is almost inconceivable what an excitement was produced upon nations and individuals by the discovery, less than four years since, of gold among the mountains of Upper California.  Tides of human life soon set in toward this one point; currents here met, whirling and contending with increasing force; and, where all was silent and calm before, was heard the roar, and seen the violence and agitation of the maelstrom.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The writer was for sixteen months employed in the gold mines, chiefly upon the American and Tuolumne Rivers and their tributaries.  His reasons for compiling his notes and presenting them to the public may be briefly stated.  It was the request of several friends that he would keep a journal of his mining life, exhibiting its lights and shades, its fortunes and misfortunes.  This he did, jotting down from day to day the incidents as they occurred.  Many mining companions, aware of this fact, requested him to prepare his journal for the press, that their friends might thus have a view of their circumstances and employments.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Having so long been a miner, and acquainted with all his privations and sufferings; having experienced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>He considers that it will be proper to present incidents of travel on his journey to California, in connection with the more important object, both to afford a view of the dangers and difficulties of the earlier emigrants to this country, and also to maintain the unity of his plan.</P>
090.sgm:<P>He hopes to make this little volume useful to those who are, or who expect to be, engaged in the arduous employments of mining.  If any shall be encouraged to perseverance--especially if any young men who shall be thus thrown into circumstances where immorality and vice are so prevalent, and to which many give themselves up too easy victims, shall be put upon their guard, his best wishes will have been accomplished.  He recalls, with sadness, the case of a merchant of education and refinement, who left a large circle of friends and a young family.  With bright hopes he started for the gold placers.  Disheartened by several failures, depressed at his separation from his family, he sought in the social cup to forget his sorrows and disappointments.  Within three months from the time he arrived in the country he became a subject of <HI REND="italics">mania a potu</HI>
090.sgm:, and died <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>I intend to make this volume a miner's manual, in which he may find important directions relating to the various mining operations.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Another motive with the writer is the desire to induce all who are doing <HI REND="italics">well enough</HI>
090.sgm:, who are living within their means and laying by a little, to remain satisfied at home.  The question is often asked, <HI REND="italics">Who should go to the mines</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Let the young man go, if he will, who has no family depending upon him--who has a strong constitution, and stronger moral courage; who is sober and persevering; who has little prospect of making a comfortable living at home, and who can make up his mind to spend five years from it, and to enjoy as few comforts as did Diogenes.  To such a one there may be some comfort in even a miner's life.  He has not, like the man of family in a similar condition, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:experience how much the heart can bear and not break--to live only in the future, while he <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Drags at each remove a lengthening chain."<LB></HI>
090.sgm: His is not the history of an <HI REND="italics">exile heart</HI>
090.sgm:.  He may enjoy the rest of the laboring man beneath God's own glorious canopy.  The hardships which he endures in this, the <HI REND="italics">gold-age</HI>
090.sgm:<P>DANIEL B. WOODS.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Philadelphia, July</HI>
090.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>GEOGRAPHY AND HISTORY.</P>
090.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA extends from Oregon to Sonoma and Lower California, and from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific.  It shows a coast-front extending ten degrees of latitude, from the thirty-second to the forty-second parallel.  To the voyager it presents only high and forbidding headlands--mountain ranges which step down from the broad table-lands in the interior, and push a bold foot far out into the waters of the ocean.</P>
090.sgm:<P>This country possesses 420,000 square miles, and is remarkable for its lofty ranges of mountains, among which lie interspersed limited but beautiful valleys and more extensive plains.  Its diversity of climate and soil is as great as the varieties of its surface.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The channel which forms the entrance into this singular country from the Pacific is two miles in width and three in length, and is opposite, under the same parallel of latitude, to the Straits of Gibraltar.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The mountain ranges may be briefly described.  Fifty miles from the barren and sandy shore of the Pacific, and running parallel with it, is the coast-range, well defined, but not so elevated as the other more remarkable range.  This is the Sierra Nevada, or Snowy Range, which bears its lofty peaks, covered even into summer with snow, far into the sky.  This range is one hundred and fifty miles farther inland, and also runs parallel with the coast.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Within all this lies the available portion of California, which consists of several fertile valleys, among which I shall notice particularly those of San Juan, and of the Sacramento and San Joaquin.  The former is of limited extent, being not more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The valley of the Sacramento and the San Joaquin lies between the coast-range and the Sierra Nevada.  It may be considered as one continuous valley, the two rivers uniting their waters at the head of the bays.  It extends in length from about the forty-first parallel of latitude, three hundred miles to the delta of the Sacramento, and thence to the head waters of the San Joaquin.  Over this whole region is found scattered the evergreen oak, resembling the trees of an old apple-orchard, and upon the ridges grows the red-wood.  A fine growth of pine is found among the mountains.</P>
090.sgm:<P>All the tributaries of the Sacramento and the San Joaquin rise among the Sierra Nevada.  It is of importance to have the position of these well understood.  The first branch worthy of note in descending the Sacramento is called Feather River.  Bear Creek and the Yuba are streams emptying into this river.  The American River is another branch of the Sacramento, fed by those streams named North, Middle, and South Forks.  In proceeding south up the San Joaquin, the Stanislaus is the first river of note.  The next branch is the Tuolumne, and then the Merced--the Rio de los Mercedes of Old California, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Still within these interior limits last described lies a comparatively narrow belt of land, difficult of access, guarded by a thousand dangers and privations, yet possessing all the extraordinary and magical influence of Aladdin's cave, and realizing our boyhood's dreams when we filled our hats with the shining coins.  This--the heart of the country--is the true, the mysterious <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
090.sgm: --the shrine at which tens of thousands of weary and exile pilgrims do homage, and where already great multitudes have left their bones.  This is <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Let us attempt a description.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Between the Sierra Nevada on the east, and the Sacramento and San Joaquin on the west, and at about twenty-five miles distance from both, are the foot or lower hills of the Nevada.  These foot-hills embrace, or rather constitute, the gold region.  They are perfectly defined upon the lower side, where they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The "river diggings" include the bars and auriferous portions of the channels of the tributaries of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, during their passage through the foot-hills.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Though the broad belt of ground which has been here described is named the gold region, it is by no means to be supposed that the precious metal is found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The primitive formations prevailing through the gold diggings are the soft granite and the talcose slate.  The superstrata are various, and depend upon the formations in the hills adjoining.  The first in importance, as being intimately combined with the gold, is the quartz.  This is found in broken fragments, from the fine pebbles to the huge masses, over the whole surface of the country.  It is often seen crowning the hill-tops, and sometimes is found in veins in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>This is now so universally admitted as not to require to be substantiated.  It is also placed beyond a doubt that the gold of the mines has been attrited, and taken to the various deposits by the action of water; and the gold is found in coarser or finer particles, according as it is exposed to a greater or less degree of this action.  In some cases, the gold has been found running in veins, more or less rich, through the quartz, and so closely combined that they must be reduced to powder before they can be separated.  With but few exceptions, however, the working of these veins has not proved profitable.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Perhaps there is no part of my whole subject so difficult to be described as the climate of California.  One cause of this is, that it is so different in various parts of the state, and in the same part during the various seasons.  In general there are two seasons--a wet and a dry.  The first commences about the middle of October, and continues to the first or middle of April.  It must not be supposed that there is rain continually during this season.  My journal exhibits the following statistical results:</P>
090.sgm:<P>In October, 1849, it rained two days--the 9th and 10th.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In November, 1849, it rained fourteen days--cloudy three days.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In December, 1849, it rained eight days--cloudy three days, and snow one day.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In January, 1850, it rained seventeen days--cloudy one day, and snow three days.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>In February, 1850, it rained four days--cloudy three days, and snow three days.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In March, 1850, it rained nine days--cloudy three days, and snow one day.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In April, 1850, it rained one day--April 5th.</P>
090.sgm:<P>During the months of October, November, and December, 1849, and of January, 1850, the mean average temperature indicated by the thermometer was as follows:</P>
090.sgm:<P>At sunrise, 36&deg;.</P>
090.sgm:<P>At noon, 50&deg;.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Lowest at sunrise, 23&deg;.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Highest at sunrise, 48&deg;.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Lowest at noon, 40&deg;.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Highest at noon, 50&deg;.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In February, 1850, in the morning, 36&deg;.</P>
090.sgm:<P>" "at noon, 62&deg;.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In March, at morning, 39&deg;.</P>
090.sgm:<P>" " at noon, 58&deg;.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The Hon. T. Butler King estimates, in his report to government, that the soil west of the Sierra Nevada covers an area of between fifty and sixty thousand square miles, and is capable of supporting a population equal to that of Ohio or New York at the present time.  A large portion of this land, although fertile, can not be cultivated, owing to the drought.  The portion of the soil capable of irrigation is comparatively small, and lies upon the rivers and streams.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The products of this state are various.  The climate and soil are well suited to the cultivation of wheat, rye, barley, and oats, the last of which grows <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>It is not the design of this work to give a history of California previous to the discovery of its gold.  But it may be proper, in connection with the geography of the country, to present a brief history of the mines and the operations of the miners.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In the spring of the year 1848, Mr. Suter employed two men to make an exploring tour along the branches of the American River, where it passes through the foot-hills already described, to find a growth of pine timber, and a suitable site for a mill for sawing it into boards.  The site and the timber were found upon the south branch of that river.  Little dreamed those day-laborers, as they broke ground for their rude mill, in that solitary wilderness, that the results of that day's labor would give employment to thousands and tens of thousands of such implements as they then used; that the one spadeful of red dirt, at whcih they gazed so intently, at the bottom of which a few yellow bits of shining dust appeared, was soon to exert a mysterious, a profound influence upon the commerce, the welfare, the destinies of the whole human family.  An influence was about to go forth from that narrow ditch which would return again, and bring with it an innumerable multitude, thronging from every quarter of the world, overcoming all difficulties, bringing with them their houses and supplies, and spreading themselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:over the hills and valleys of this country.  That moment was an epoch in the world's history.  It was the discovery of GOLD; and, which is of far more importance, it was the <HI REND="italics">planting of the</HI>
090.sgm: ANGLO-SAXON <HI REND="italics">upon the shores of the Pacific</HI>
090.sgm:<P>At this time California contained but fifteen thousand people.  The belt of gold country was comparatively uninhabited, and entirely without supplies of provisions, except such as might be procured by the rifle of the hunter, and as entirely destitute of shelter.  In a few weeks after the 1st of June, 1848, it is estimated that there were five thousand miners.  As they came generally without provisions, these commanded an exorbitant price.  At the time Rev. Alcalde Colton visited the mines, which was some time after the discovery, flour sold for $4 the pound, sugar and coffee at $4, a tin pan $6, laudanum $1 the drop, rum $20 a quart, and picks sold at $18 each.  It was not until the summer and fall of 1849 that the American emigration began to arrive.  They came across the plains, through Mexico, by the Isthmus, and around the Horn; and before the winter it was calculated that there were fifty thousand engaged in this business.  During this season the miners extended themselves along many of the streams and through many of the ravines of the gold region.  The provisions were scanty and unsuitable.  Very few vegetables, and little fresh meat, were to be purchased at any price.  Flour and pork were the staples, which were sold at $1 the pound till the rainy season commenced, when they sold for $2.  A few bottles of pickles which reached the mines were sold at $6 and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The year 1850 opened more favorably in the supplies furnished at the mines.  It was estimated by Mr. King, who wrote at that time, that during the year there would be one hundred thousand miners employed.  Many of them had built themselves comfortable log or stone houses--provisions were more abundant, and at lower rates.  Vegetables, fresh meats, and fish were constantly supplied, many of them from the vicinity of the mines.</P>
090.sgm:<P>It will be perceived that the statistics which I have prepared of the profits of mining differs essentially from other published tables.  I have only to say in defense of my own, that they are the result of the most careful observation and inquiry during sixteen months' residence in the mines.  They are furnished by individuals most of whom have given their names and residences in connection with the results of their labors.  The table presents the average profits in their most favorable aspect, being furnished by a class of industrious and persevering miners.  The winter averages of fifty-six miners in the best of the southern diggings is $3 26 for each day to each miner.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The summer averages were based upon the operations of mining companies located upon the most profitable bars of the Tuolumne, and furnished in every case but one by the secretaries of those companies.  The table gives the result of thirty-five thousand eight hundred and seventy-six working days, which was bullion valued at $113,633 95, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Hon. T. Butler King, in his report to government, gives the average as $16 per diem.  It is a question of some importance which of these is the correct estimate.  Let us present the aggregate amount of gold taken out of all the California mines during the year, according to both estimates.  According to that of Senator King, and allowing the year to have three hundred and thirteen working days, the one hundred thousand miners would give the sum total of $500,800,000, or over half a billion dollars yearly, while the average sum would be $5008 to each miner.  The other estimate would average $1004 73, and present the total profits of the mines for the year as $100,473,000.  One would think that the rest of the world should be satisfied with having picked from the pockets of this old California miser who has hoarded his treasures so long, nearly a hundred million of dollars in one year!  Half a billion! that would be taking too much!</P>
090.sgm:<P>Not only is the digging of gold the most uncertain of all employments, it is also one in which science and all past experience are at fault.  No rules can be given, no evidences furnished for finding the concealed veins or opening the rich deposits.  The miner is not sure of his gold till he holds it in his hand, and then it seems very difficult for him to hold on to it.  One of our coins is very properly denominated the eagle, since it seems endued with wings, and is so apt to fly away.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ON the 1st of February, 1849, we embarked, at the foot of Arch Street, Philadelphia, on board the barque Thomas Walters, under command of Captain Marshman, for Tampico, thence intending to cross Mexico, and, re-embarking at Mazatlan, to proceed up the Pacific coast to San Francisco.  Our company consisted of about forty persons, known as the Camargo Company.  There were among them men from all the professions and pursuits in life--young and old, grave and gay, married and unmarried.</P>
090.sgm:<P>After the usual amount of adventures, sea-sickness, and home-sickness, we arrived at Tampico on the 21st of February, where we were most happy to exchange the monotony, the junk and other salt provisions, and the green waves of a sea life, for the pleasing variety, the delicious fruits and vegetables, and the beautiful fields of a tropical climate.</P>
090.sgm:<P>We must take our readers with us, first to the theatre of Tampico, where we went, not as spectators, but as actors upon its boards.  The first night after our arrival we appeared upon its stage, performing our parts in the celebrated farce, the California Gold Diggers--a play which has since been performed a thousand times, and with unabated interest.  To explain myself, our quarters, while in the city, were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>This city is pleasantly located upon an elevated promontory, being almost an island, having the River Panuco on the one side, and a lake upon the other.  It contains about seven thousand inhabitants, many of whom are Americans.  There are several large plazas or public squares, and some pleasant houses.  The American consul, Captain Chase, took us to the spot where his heroic wife raised the American flag, and maintained it in spite of the threats of the Mexicans.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The furnishing of such a company as ours with all the horses and mules necessary for a journey of about eight hundred miles was not to be accomplished at once.  On the morning of the 8th of March, and the fifteenth day after our arrival, we were mounted on "mustangs," a small and hardy horse, peculiarly adapted to the mountains over which we were to travel, our provisions and clothing being on the backs of mules.  All being ready, we slowly filed out from the hacienda of Mr. Laffler, a large farmer from Ohio, who was under contract to supply us with animals to Mazatlan.  We had spent some days here preparing for the march, and amusing ourselves in spearing fish, and in shooting deer and alligators, being ourselves likewise the sport of innumerable swarms of musquitoes, ticks, fleas, and jiggers.  This latter insect, though very small, is the occasion, at times, of great inconvenience and suffering.  These tropical insects handled us so cruelly, that we were compelled to write, eat, and sleep with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Upon the march, a <HI REND="italics">Caballero</HI>
090.sgm:<P>For several days our march lay across the level plains of the Tierra Caliente, the region of perpetual spring, and clothed with verdure.  Having reached the foot-hills of the Sierra Madre, or Andes of Mexico, one day's travel brought us up into the temperate region.  This was the lower table-land.  The landscape was no longer gay with flowers, but abounded in immense forests.  Here were found the varieties of the musquite, the stately cypress, and the banyan.  The whole undergrowth was a thorny thicket, in which the prickly pear and the cactus predominated.  After traveling a day over this region, we came to a valley, into which we descended, and where, in the midst of a fertile country, we entered Villa de Vallee.  This town contains a cathedral in ruins, which, like those of many of the towns of Mexico, were partially destroyed at the time of the revolution, and have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:never since been repaired.  One of the wings was occupied as a chapel, while the residence of the <HI REND="italics">Padre</HI>
090.sgm:<P>A letter from Bishop Kendrick, of Philadelphia, which he kindly sent me as I was about leaving home, procured me every attention here.  This general letter of introduction, written in the Latin language, gained for me much valuable information from the priests of Mexico.  The assistance, and in some cases the protection, which it secured to our whole company, can not be overrated.  It is as follows:</P>
090.sgm:<P>"Nos Franciscus Patricius Kendrick, Dei et Apostolic&aelig; Sedis Gratia, Episcopus Philadelphiensis Universis has litteras inspecturis notum facimus et testamur Danielem B. Woods, in Statu Massachusetts natum, et per aliquot annos hujus urbis incolam, civem esse spectabilem moribus, et fama integra, quem suorum negotiorum causa alio migrantem, omnibus commendamus, ut si qua indiguerit opera amica, ea fruatur.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"In quorum fidem has litteras dedimus Philadelphi&aelig; die XXX. mensis Januarii anno MDCCCXLIX.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"FRANCISCUS PATRICIUS, Ep. Phil."</P>
090.sgm:<P>Padre Calisti endorsed this letter in Spanish.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The houses of Villa de Vallee were of one story, and generally made of mud-bricks dried in the sun.  The people seemed all poor and very indolent, the women, as is the case through Mexico, being far superior to the men in industry and intelligence.  We remainded here several days to have our animals shod, a necessary preparation for crossing the mountains.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>After the animals were made ready, we proceeded over the plains toward the mountains, some of the peaks of which we could see. Before we reached these we crossed the Tomwin River at a small town where we passed the night.  The place for the entertainment of travelers was near the banks of the river, and late in the afternoon we walked out to the stream, where were gathered men, women, and children, floundering and bathing in the water.  Nor was it long before several of our company were joining in their wild and gleeful sports.</P>
090.sgm:<P>For some time reports of a revolution in the country about us reached our ears, and hearing from some villagers that, if we kept on our course, we should meet the insurgents the next day, we concluded to turn aside at once into the mountains, though we should thus be compelled to ascend by a path which is seldom attempted.  We were three days in climbing the mountains and clambering over the rocks--such as I hope not to see again.  Its precipices were fearful.  We would sometimes wind our way up or down the face of a mountain by paths cut in the side, over which a person might be let down many hundred feet by ropes.  It was a volcanio country, and its conical peaks were surrounded for miles with scoria and pumice-stone, which tore the shoes from the feet of our animals, rendering it almost impossible to travel.  This was a country fitted for the ladrones and guerillas.  And the frequent crosses planted by the path told of murders which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:had been committed here, and where the traveler was, if so disposed, to offer up prayers for the repose of the souls of the murdered.  We were cautioned to be on our guard, and to maintain a constant watch at night.  But, notwithstanding such cautions, we were often tempted, for the sake of avoiding the dust, to travel in advance of the train.  In company with a gentleman who was armed as well as myself, I started on, not expecting to meet our companions again till we halted for the night.  We were about three miles in advance of the train, and, as we rode around the angle of a large rock near the path, six or seven men, who were lying there apparently watching for us, started suddenly to their feet and sprung to our side.  Our guns were fortunately in our hands, and in a position that we could use them; we were also armed with revolvers and knives at our belts.  Seeing that we were not intimidated by their violent gestures, but were calm and ready, they soon dropped behind us, and after a time disappeared.  These robbers never attack travelers if every chance is not in their favor.  A small party of five persons belonging to our company were placed in greater danger even than ours.  They were traveling some days before us, and not far from this same spot.  They had been warned at the last town that a party of twenty guerillas had gone out early in the morning for the purpose of attacking them.  As they rode slowly on, they came in sight of the robbers, who had chosen well their positions, and were waiting for them.  Five of the twenty-one robbers were stationed in the path, while the others were divided up into small gangs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>At length we reached the summit of the tableland, eight thousand feet above the level of the sea, which spread out a vast plain before us, from which many lofty volcanic peaks sprung up, attaining to an elevation of fourteen thousand feet.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Excepting in the valleys, there is but little vegetation upon these plateaus.  And we could not imagine where the supplies for the markets of the cities could be obtained.  For several days our path lay through palm and palmetto groves.  The parasol shade of their small tops was no shelter from the heat of the sun at noon, but rather increased its intensity.  And the whole day long would come, screaming over us, the never-ending flocks of parrots.  Their cry, to a weary traveler, is almost intolerable.  The cactus, Mexico's national flower, and emblazoned upon her coat of arms, and stamped upon her coin, is found here in a thousand varieties.  The beautiful flower itself is often three feet in height.  After leaving these palm groves, we entered upon a very barren and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:desolate region.  It was a desert of sand and dust, almost without water.  Our mules would raise such a cloud of dust, especially if there was any wind, as to be nearly suffocating.  The great elevation to which we had attained caused the most disagreeable sensations.  On lying down at night, or rising in the morning, there would be a painful giddiness.  The skin became parched and dry, and the spirits were oppressed.  While traveling over this region, we were overtaken one day by a dust storm, which was as novel as it was oppressive.  It was near night.  We saw before us, which after a time spread out all around us, many wild whirlwinds which extended up into the sky, carrying with them apparently solid conical masses of clouds.  We counted upward of sixty cones formed and forming at the same time.  As the sun was setting, these extended at the top, opening something in the form of an umbrella, the cones still continuing to play up their heaving masses into its expanding bosom, which presented a most unearthly and terrific appearance.  It was the <HI REND="italics">blackness of darkness</HI>
090.sgm:, which suddenly became illuminated by the lurid flashes of lightning darting through it, and forming a picture of that wrath which, we may suppose, broods and bursts over the bottomless pit.  Suddenly its edges closed down around us, snatching away the remaining light of day, and shrouding us in darkness, like that of Egypt, through which we groped, calling and shouting to each other, yet not able to see a yard before us.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Eripiunt subito nubes c&oelig;lumque, diemque<LB>Teucrorum ex oculis; ponto nox incubat atra."<LB></HI>
090.sgm:<P>Again a rush was heard, which came nearer and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:more near, filling us with dread, till it struck us with the suddenness of a blow.  It was as though all those cones had drawn closer and closer together, till they were piled into one consolidated mountain of dust, pressed down by the mass in the air upon our heads.  For a time all our efforts to see or to speak were vain.  We could hardly breathe.  If we moved at all, it was by setting our backs against the elements and pushing with all our strength.  There was not a drop of rain; it was a storm of dust--a <HI REND="italics">sirocco</HI>
090.sgm:.  Fortunately for us, we were near the <HI REND="italics">meson</HI>
090.sgm:<P>In the <HI REND="italics">mesons</HI>
090.sgm:, the various apartments for travelers, the stables, the eating-room, and all the offices, are built around a spacious paved court, upon which all the windows and doors open.  A large gate forms the entrance, which is closed and bolted at night.  The rooms for travelers, often twenty feet square, are entirely unfurnished.  He is to supply his own bed and bedding, which he spreads out upon a floor which seems never to have been swept.  For his meals he must go to the <HI REND="italics">fonda</HI>
090.sgm:, and order what he may choose or what they may have.  One dish at a time is spread upon the bare table, which is often furnished with plates, but not often with knives, forks, or spoons.  A variety of soups, made hot with red pepper, and a slice of bread, forms the first course.  Then follows rice, with thin Indian cakes.  Sometimes squash fried in lard is added.  A favorite dessert is the Mexican <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:custard, made of rice or chocolate.  Coffee, wine, or <HI REND="italics">pulque</HI>
090.sgm:<P>In the morning the horses and mules are led out into the court, every preparation is made, and the travelers take their leave, throwing behind them their hasty adieus.  These mesons in city and country are very filthy, and much infested with vermin.  In one instance we saw a number of <HI REND="italics">Tarantulas</HI>
090.sgm:<P>On the 22d of March we entered San Luis Potosi.  This is a large city, possessing considerable wealth.  It is near the silver mines, and contains a mint.</P>
090.sgm:<P>We saw here, for the first time, a stage-coach.  It was up for the city of Mexico, distant about three hundred miles, which journey is accomplished in six days, at an expense of $25 for a seat.  The coach consists of a large unwieldy frame, upon which is swung the body, which is comparatively small.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The ignorance of the Mexicans is equal to their superstition.  We were amused at an instance afforded us in the case of a schoolmaster.  While describing to him the modes of traveling in America, we told him about the steamers, at which he was not much surprised, having heard of them before; but when we told him of the rail-road, he listened with the same incredulity with which the King of Siam heard the missionaries describe ice; but when we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:told him of the telegraph, he slowly arose, wrapped his <HI REND="italics">serapi</HI>
090.sgm:<P>We were present at a cock-fight, one of the favorite amusements of the Mexicans in general, and of Santa Anna in particular.  A low fence inclosed the pit, within which were the attendants exhibiting the game cocks, and the owners who were taking the bets of the spectators.  Among these were several padres, always known by their peculiar dress.  The crowd around exhibited no excitement.  Gambling with the Mexicans is a regular pursuit, and not a means of diversion or excitement.  There was no difference in their appearance, whether they were at church or at their cock-fights.  After all the betting was done, long steel spears, made very sharp, and three inches in length, were fastened upon the legs of the cocks, and they were pitted to fight.  In the first encounter, one cock thrust his spear into the breast of the other, which died very soon after.  In the second, two fine cocks were pitted, and more interest than usual was felt and deeper betting elicited.  In less than half a minute, one was lying dead, the spear of the other being thrust so far through his head that it was with difficulty withdrawn.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In one of our rambles through the city, we were accosted in the most remarkable manner by a well-dressed and beautiful sign&tilde;orita.  She was seated at a window of one of the houses of the wealthy.  As we caught her piercing black eye, she smiled a cordial greeting, to which one of the party responded by a respectful "Buenos dias, sign&tilde;orita!"  Her reply <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>We spent two days in the city to give rest to our animals, and then proceeded on our way toward Guadalaxara.  Between these two cities the country is more uneven.  The scenery is often very beautiful.  We received many cautions to be on our guard, as we were to pass through a part of the country where many depredations and murders had been committed.  We were told of travelers who had been suddenly dragged from their horses by the lasso, and murdered.  One day we witnessed an instance of the surprising skill of the Mexicans in the use of the lasso.  One of the horses threw his rider, and went galloping off across the plain.  In a moment a muleteer had spurred his mule forward in pursuit, coiling up his rope as he went.  Presently the coil darted through the air, and fell with unerring aim over the head of the horse, bringing him at once to a pause.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The most beautiful city we saw in Mexico was Santa Maria de los Lagos.  Its cathedral was grand, towering high above its houses, and, as we rode through the streets, was inviting, by its chimes, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>It was not without some apprehension, after having heard so much of guerilla parties, that we saw before us, the day after we left the last town, a company of armed men coming toward us.  We were ordered to examine our arms, and have them ready for use.  They proved to be government troops, which were marching to meet the insurgents in Tamaulipas county.  At their head were several American deserters, but not Americans, who were leading along some females by the hand.  We also met a company of " <HI REND="italics">Volunteers</HI>
090.sgm:<P>On the 2d of April, 1849, we reached Guadalaxara.  This is the second city in Mexico, and contains a population of 125,000.  Some of the cathedrals have cost millions.  Many of the public buildings and squares, and the palaces of the wealthy, are very beautiful.  The interiors of the cathedrals <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:glistened with their silver shrines, chandeliers, and railings.  The rude floors were covered with kneeling worshipers.  The tones of the bells are very clear and sonorous.  This is probably owing to the large amount of silver used in their composition.  This, like the city of Mexico, is very compact, the streets straight, broad, and well paved.  The houses, with their heavy-grated windows upon the streets, and their huge door-ways in the centre, gave them the appearance of so many fortresses.  It is behind these walls and gates that the Mexican is luxurious and extravagant.  His house is most gayly furnished, nor does he spare any expense in procuring that which will please his fancy.  The women never wear bonnets.  The covering for the head is called the <HI REND="italics">reboso</HI>
090.sgm:.  This is a kind of scarf, some six feet long and three wide, which covers the head, and is drawn closely down over the face, and then crosses in front.  It is a very common practice with the Mexican women to smoke the <HI REND="italics">cigarrito</HI>
090.sgm:<P>In this city we were first made rather painfully aware of a custom of the country, of uncovering the head while passing the front portal of the cathedral.  Two or three stones, well aimed, removed the hats which our hands should have removed.  The streets, as in the cities generally, are here cleaned by the convicts, who are chained and guarded by soldiers.  As we were passing one of these gangs, I had fallen behind my companions, and was alone.  One of the soldiers came to me, and, saying "Amigo" (friend), suddenly thrust his hand into my pocket.  Supposing that he wanted tobacco, I told him I had none.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Here we witnessed the procession of the Host.  The priest, carrying the sacred emblems, rode in a carriage, followed by a band of music, and numerous attendants bearing a flag, upon which was painted the likeness of a lamb, about which were many persons bearing lighted lanterns.  Then came a crowd of citizens.  As the procession passed, all in the street knelt.</P>
090.sgm:<P>One among the many cathedrals we visited greatly interested us.  It was filled with beautiful exotics, brought there from the gardens of the wealthy in honor of the approaching Easter holidays.  As we were passing through the aisles, examining the flowers, a lady of rank and fortune, perceiving us, called a lad to her, whispering to him.  He went out by a side door, but soon returned, followed by a venerable-looking priest, who addressed us in correct English.  When he had read Bishop Kendrick's letter, he gave us a cordial welcome, and led us into his library, one of the largest on the continent.  This contained many of our own standard works, and was ornamented by the portraits of distinguished men, among which we noticed a splendid portrait of Washington.  Assuring me we should want nothing to render our journey agreeable and safe, he sent an attendant to show us the paintings and treasures of the cathedral.</P>
090.sgm:<P>On the 4th of April we left Guadalaxara, having received notice from an officer of government that no travelers were permitted to enter or to leave the city during the Easter solemnities.  In a few hours we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Magdalena is a pleasant town, situated among the mountains, on the banks of a beautiful lake.  Here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:we saw the first of the dramatic street representations of the closing scenes in the life of our Savior.  These consisted in enacting each day in their order the events recorded in Scripture.  Most of the day and one entire night were devoted to these exhibitions, in which all the people participated.  In Magdalena the procession paraded the streets during the night, with torches, and accompanied by a band performing solemn music.  The image of the Savior, which was Spanish in its features, like all the sacred images of Mexico, had a bandage over the eyes, and was led away by a band of ruffians, as if for trial.  At a distance the image of the Virgin Mary was borne along by weeping females.  We saw nothing more--not again entering any town--till the third night, when we reached Tocotes.  At this stage in the series the Savior was represented as borne by the centurions and soldiers to the tomb.  The image was placed in a glass coffin strewed with flowers.  This was borne by men.  At a distance was the image of Mary led by women, her hands folded in an attitude of grief.  The cathedral was decorated with a profusion of flowers, in the midst of which was the tomb.  These tragical scenes were followed, at the close, by a <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
090.sgm:<P>During one evening of Easter, soon after we had arrived at the <HI REND="italics">meson</HI>
090.sgm:, some one came rushing in, informing us that the guerillas had surrounded us.  Seizing our arms, we hastened to the court, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:all was confusion.  There were thirty robbers outside the walls.  They said that they were government soldiers, and loudly demanded admittance, asserting that they came from the alcalde.  The proprietor told them they were ladrones, and refused to admit them.  They left soon after, threatening to return.  The alcalde came in much alarmed, and told us that they were robbers; that the troops of government never traveled during Easter, and if they did they were bound to report themselves to him.  We mutually pledged ourselves, in case of an attack during the night upon the town or upon our quarters, to aid the citizens or they us, as the case might be.  We made our preparations for defense, and slept with our arms at our sides.  Nothing more was heard of the robbers.  In the vicinity of Tocotes we crossed over a remarkable mountain.  For several hours we were ascending by zigzag paths, each turn bringing us higher among the clouds.  When we had reached the summit point, we were several thousand feet above many of our companions and all the mules, a distance of more than two miles by the road, but in a direct line not more than one quarter of a mile, for we could distinctly hear the loud talking of the company and the shouts of the mule-drivers.  We looked over the edge of the precipice, and watched our companions as they wound their way slowly up.  The view was very grand, though it produced a painful giddiness.  Soon after ascending this mountain, our way led us through the crater of an old volcano.  There were the pumice-stone, the scoria, and the charred and blackened rocks, as though they had but just issued, boiling and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>After some delay in making our preparations, we embarked at San Blas on the 12th of April, in the San Blasin&tilde;a, a schooner of twenty-three tons--being thirty-six feet long and twelve wide--for San Francisco.  In this miserable, unseaworthy craft, thirty-eight of us took passage.  It was represented to us that the Pacific was so quiet that it would be safe to go up in open boats.  Alas for our error!  Yet it was only too common.  In some instances, emigrants, in their extreme anxiety to proceed on their way, have embarked in whale boats at Panama, hoping to reach San Francisco.  Our voyage to Mazatlan was most disagreeable.  We were so cramped for room on deck, the hold being filled with bananas, that three of us slept in a canoe hewed from a log, which was made secure on deck.  The portion of it which I occupied was two and a half feet long and three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:and a half wide.  There I slept for eight nights.  On the 20th of April we reached Mazatlan, after having been put upon an allowance of water, and the last day having no water at all.  This is an important sea-port and a fine city.  Though it possesses no public buildings of note, many of the dwelling houses are spacious and pleasant.  Its fine bathing-ground forms its principal attraction.  A small and inferior chapel is the only place of worship, while the amphitheatre for the bull-fights is a spacious inclosure, capable of accommodating many hundred persons.  This "Plaza de los Toros," as it is called, is an amphitheatre covering about one quarter of an acre.  Around this the seats are arranged in tiers.  On one side are the pens for the bulls, on the other the elevated seat of the manager, fancifully decorated.  Large show-bills state the number and qualifications of the various animals, brute and human, to be brought forward, and invite all who are so disposed to be present.  The Sabbath is generally the day selected for the spectacle, and on the morning of that day a procession of the <HI REND="italics">valiant and brave</HI>
090.sgm:<P>A great number of Americans were waiting at this place for opportunities to go to San Francisco.  Many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>There are about seven millions of inhabitants in Mexico.  The rich class are very wealthy, own most of the land in the country, and live in palaces in the cities.  They are few in number.  Among them may be classed a portion of the priests.  The poor class constitute the great majority, seldom owning any property, and the larger proportion being abjectly poor.</P>
090.sgm:<P>We took our departure from Mazatlan on May 4th, having spent two weeks in litigation respecting the schooner, which resulted in favor of the passengers, and made us, the first time in our lives,<HI REND="italics">ship-owners</HI>
090.sgm:.  The whole had been an unfortunate operation, and we had already paid more for our passage than the schooner was worth.  The owners had <HI REND="italics">lost</HI>
090.sgm: the money which had been advanced to them, and were unable to comply with the terms of the contract, by putting the schooner in sailing order in Mazatlan.  Papers were accordingly made out, giving us undisputed possession of twenty-three tons burden of shipping.  Our captain, a very old man, had not been to sea for twenty years before this memorable voyage.  I shall presently have to relate an account of the <HI REND="italics">adroit</HI>
090.sgm: manner in which he upset a boat-load of us to pass half an hour among the sharks and waves before we could get to land.  Our mate was a Frenchman, and the only skillful sailor among us.  He knew that we were proceeding on a wrong course, and as it was mutiny to put the vessel on a right course by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:daylight, as soon as it was dark enough he would put the "ship about," so that what we lost in the day we gained in the night.  The rest of the crew were sailors drafted from the passengers.  We were again short of water, and having been unable to procure a supply along the coast, we anchored off San Jose&acute;, a small town near the cape.  The captain requested me to accompany him on shore.  The waves ran very high, and it was dangerous to attempt a landing, unless under the guidance of one who understood "surfing a boat."  After every third wave which breaks upon the shore, there is a lull, short indeed, but of sufficient length to permit a boat which follows instantaneously upon it to get beyond the reach of the first wave of the next series.  The only method is to row nearly to the line where the waves show a long white crest before they break upon the shore, and then to rest upon the oars.  As soon as the third wave has passed, the rowers must urge the boat promptly and vigorously in.  If this one rule is neglected, the "swamping" of the boat must inevitably be the result.  The captain explained this so accurately that we could not doubt his skill.  We had four stout rowers, breathlessly awaiting the signal upon the brink of the breakers.  But, unfortunately, the signal came between the second and third waves.  We were a hundred yards from the landing.  Suddenly we heard the warning roar, like the low tone of the distant thunder.  I looked behind, and the wave was moving toward us like an impending wall, six feet above the boat.  Suddenly it broke, showing the white crest rapidly extending itself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:along as far as the eye could reach.  Its first approach tossed the boat, like a straw, on one side, and instantly the whole wave came toppling down upon us, burying the boat and three of those who were in it beneath the rushing tides.  I had risen from my seat, and the wave struck me many feet toward the shore, crushing my hat over my face and eyes, so that some moments and several waves passed over me before I could again see.  When I was able to look around me, the captain and one of my companions were swimming for land.  The others were clinging to the keel of the boat, after having been buried beneath it till they were nearly strangled.  Those who were swimming were soon on shore, the captain so completely exhausted that he sank down into the water, and was dragged back to the dry sand.  In half an hour all were safe on the beach, grateful for so remarkable a deliverance.  Our danger was greatly increased by the fact that the place was infested with sharks.  The next day, as we were walking along the shore, two fish darted out of the water, and were instantly followed by two large sharks, which pursued them high upon the beach.  We made several attempts to double the cape and proceed on our way, but were driven back each time by heavy head winds.  In our third attempt we were becalmed, and spent the most of the day in rowing our schooner along, which we did at the rate of three miles an hour.  After we had turned in, and were sleeping upon some water and provision casks in the hold, made level by laying down sticks of wood and boards between them, a severe gale sprang up, and drove us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>At this place our ship's company was divided, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:part being determined to proceed on their journey by sea, while another part intended to walk up to San Francisco, a distance of twelve hundred miles, over a barren country, and uninhabited except by Indians.  Of these latter, a portion started by an almost imperceptible path, which led them toward the Atlantic coast, while the remaining four of us expected to proceed up the gulf coast.  As we ascended the hills behind the village, we caught a last look of the schooner, already out some distance at sea.  When we reached San Jose&acute;, to our joy we found the Scottish barque Collooney, Capt. Livingston, for San Francisco, anchored there, having put in for water.  We were received on board, and on May 25th weighed anchor and were again on our way.  The Collooney was from Panama, having on board two hundred passengers, with accommodations for twenty.  At the time for meals, two assistant stewards, mounted upon the long boat near the two galleys, called over the names of the passengers belonging to their divisions.  As his name was called, each one walked up if it was calm, and reeled up if it was rough, to the galleys, and received in a tin plate and dipper his allowance.  It was a tedious voyage of thirty-five days from the cape to San Francisco.  On several Sundays I was invitedto preach upon the quarter-deck.  On these occasions we were sometimes favored with original hymns from the pen of T. G. Spear, of Philadelphia, who was a passenger on board.  I shall give a part of one of these as very appropriate.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Our path is on the mighty deep,<LB>But God is with us there,</HI>
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090.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"To guard us in the night, asleep,<LB>And in the noonday's glare.<LB>Our barque, a speck beneath the sky,<LB>His hand conveys along;<LB>He makes the winds around her fly,<LB>Be gentle or be strong.<LB>Here let us pause, and praise, and pray,<LB>And seek that boon sublime,<LB>That opens up a brighter day,<LB>And smooths the storms of time."<LB></HI>
090.sgm:<P>Much of the time was passed in vexatious calms.  We were such a picture as Coleridge had in his mind when he wrote,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Day after day, day after day,<LB>We stuck, nor breath nor motion,<LB>As idly as a painted ship<LB>Upon a painted ocean."<LB></HI>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 25th, 1849</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>, we reached San Francisco, seventy-four days from San Blas, and one hundred and forty-five days from Philadelphia.  This wonderful city is an uninviting spot.  There is but a small strip of level land, crowded down to the bay, surrounded by high, sandy hills, covered with short bushes, while not a tree is to be seen.  The city is composed chiefly of tents.  Each day regularly, at about ten o'clock, there arrives in the city, coming down with a rush over the bleak and barren hills, a cold, chilling wind, which takes one at once from the summer to the winter solstice.  Fires are comfortable, and cloaks or serapis are necessary.  Gambling seems to be universal.  Rents are held at the most exorbitant prices.  I almost fear to risk my credibility by stating that the Parker House rents at $150,000 a year.  On the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>We spent the first night at Benicia, anchoring near the landing. Taking our blankets, as we would our umbrellas at home, we called upon the Rev. Mr. W., and were introduced by him to a trader, who kindly permitted us to sleep in a large unfinished room, while in another part of the same room were a party consisting of a Mexican master and his peons, on their way to the mines.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 29th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Arrived at Sacramento City, the present of which is under canvas, and the future on paper.  Every thing is new except the ground, and trees, and the stars, beneath a canopy of which we slept.  Quarreling and cheating form the employments, drinking and gambling the amusements, making the largest pile of gold the only ambition of the inhabitants.  As each one steps his foot on shore, he seems to have entered a magic circle, in which he is under the influence of new impulses.  The wills of all seem under the control of some strong and hidden agency.  The city is every day newly filled, then emptied but to be filled again.  The crowd ever presses on, elate with hope, excited by expectations, which it would be impossible to define or realize.  The worldrenowned Sutter's Fort, which is two miles from the landing, is a rude structure made of sun-dried bricks, about five hundred feet long and two hundred wide.  It is now used for other purposes, a part of it being fitted up as a hospital.</P>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 2d.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Walked from Sacramento to Mormon Island, a distance of twenty-nine miles; and the next day, each one having forty pounds of baggage upon his back, consisting of a cradle, tools for mining, provisions, blankets, &amp;c., walked eight miles farther up the south fork of the American River to Salmon Falls, there to commence our mining operations.</P>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>NORTHERN MINES.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Salmon Falls, South Fork of the American River,</P>
090.sgm:<P>July 4th, 1849.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Here we are, at length, in the gold diggings.  Seated around us, upon the ground, beneath a large oak, are a group of wild Indians, from the tribe called "Diggers," so named from their living chiefly upon roots.  These Indians are of medium size, seldom more than five feet and eight or ten inches high; are very coarse and indolent in appearance, of a dark complexion, with long black hair which comes down over the face; are uncivilized, and possess few of the arts of life.  They weave a basket of willow so closely as to hold water, in which they boil their mush, made of acorns dried and pounded to a powder, or their flour, purchased at some trading tent.  You will perhaps ask how water can be boiled in a basket without the fire's burning it.  This is done simply by heating stones and putting them into the water, which is thus, in a short time, raised to the boiling point.  They have brought us in some salmon, one of which weighs twenty-nine pounds.  These they spear with great dexterity, and exchange for provisions, or clothing, and ornaments of bright colors.  We are surrounded on all sides by high, steep mountains, over which are scattered the evergreen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:and white oak, and which are inhabited by the wolf and bear.<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
090.sgm: This will always be to us a memorable fourth of July, as being our first day at the mines.  We have spent the day in " <HI REND="italics">prospecting</HI>
090.sgm:."  This term, as it designates a very important part of the business of mining, requires explanation.  I should first, however, give some description of the bar upon which we are to labor.  This lies on both sides the river, and is covered with smooth, brassy-looking rocks, some of which weigh many tons.  It is a little higher than the water-level; but we find, as we dig down, that the water soon begins to flow in, and must be "baled out."  This bar, or rather succession of bars, extends a distance of some miles up and down the river, over which the water runs with surprising rapidity in the freshets, which are common during the rainy reason, and break up and reduce the gold-bearing quartz, tearing it away from its primitive bed, robbing it, in its course, of its virgin gold, and attriting it till it is at length deposited, in greater or less abundance, within some crevice or some water-worn hollow, or beneath some rock so formed as to receive it.  These bars vary from a few feet to several hundred yards in width.  In order to find the deposits, the ground must be "prospected."  A spot is first selected, in the choice of which science has little and chance every thing to do.  The stones and loose upper soil, as also the subsoil, almost down to the primitive rock, are removed.  Upon or near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:this rock most of the gold is found; and it is the object, in every mining operation, to reach this, however great the labor, and even if it lies forty, eighty, or a hundred feet beneath the surface.  If, when this strata-belt of rock is attained, it is found to present a smooth surface, it may as well be abandoned at once; if solt and friable, or if seamed with crevices, running at angles with the river, the prospect of the miner is favorable.  Some of the dirt is then put into a pan, and taken to the water, and washed out with great care.  The miner stoops down by the stream, choosing a place where there is the least current, and, dipping a quantity of water into the pan with the dirt, stirs it about with his hands, washing and throwing out the large pebbles, till the dirt is thoroughly wet.  More water is then taken into the pan, and the whole mass is well stirred and shaken, and the top gravel thrown off with the fingers, while the gold, being heavier, sinks deeper into the pan.  It is then shaken about, more water being continually added, and thrown off with a sideway motion, which carries with it the dirt at the top, while the gold settles yet lower down.  It must be often stirred with the hands to prevent "baking," as the hardening of the mud at the bottom is called.  When the dirt is nearly washed out, great care is requisite to prevent the lighter scales of gold from being washed out with the magnetic sand, which is best done by pushing back the gold, and cleaning the sand from the edge of the pan with the thumb.  At length a ridge of gold scales, mixed with a little sand, remains in the pan, from the quantity of which some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:estimate may be formed of the richness of the place.  If there are five to eight grains, it is considered that "it will pay."  If less gold is found, the miner digs deeper or opens a new hole, till he finds a place affording a good <HI REND="italics">prospect</HI>
090.sgm:.  When this is done, he sets his cradle by the side of the stream, in some convenient place, and proceeds to wash all the dirt.  This is aptly named <HI REND="italics">prospecting</HI>
090.sgm:, and is the hardest part of a miner's business.  Thus have we been employed the whole of this day, digging one hole after another--washing out many test-pans--hoping, at every new attempt,to find that which would reward our toil, and we have made <HI REND="italics">ten cents</HI>
090.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">We were induced to come to this place by the accounts we received of the success of two brothers--Jordan--who, in a few weeks, made $3000 here, and are now on their way home.</NOTE>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 5th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>My share to-day is $1 25.  These details may appear dull and uninteresting; but the reader will bear in mind that it is the writer's object to give a full and true description of a miner's life.  He might pass by all the days and months of profitless labor, and record only the days of success; but those who have friends at the mines, and those who purpose going there, will certainly wish to know what are the trials and discouragements of such a life.  They wish to know the <HI REND="italics">truth</HI>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 6th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>We have to-day removed to the opposite side of the river.  This, with pitching our tent, has occupied most of the day.  Still, we have made $4 each.  I have been seated for several hours by the river side, rocking a heavy cradle filled with dirt and stones.  The working of a cradle requires from three to five persons, according to the character of the diggings.  If there is much of the auriferous dirt, and it is easily obtained, three are sufficient; but if there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:is little soil, and this found in crevices, so as only to be obtained with the knife, five or more can be employed in keeping the cradle in operation.  One of these gives his whole attention to working the cradle, and another takes the dirt to be washed, in pans or buckets, from the hole to the cradle, while one or two others supply the buckets.  The cradle, so called from its general resemblance to that article of furniture, has two rockers, which move easily back and forth in two grooves of a frame, which is laid down firmly on the edge of or over the water, so that the person working it may at the same time dip up the water.  It must be inclined a few degrees forward, that the dirt may be washed gradually out, and must be so placed that the mud may be carried off with the stream.  Cleets are nailed across the bottom of the body, over which the loose dirt passes with the water, and behind which the magnetic sand and gold settle.  An apron is placed beneath the hopper, and conducts the water, dirt, &amp;c., from that to the body below--a construction similar to that of the common fanning-mill.  The hopper, which is placed at the top of the cradle behind, is a box, the bottom of which is a sheet of tin, zinc, or sheet iron, perforated with holes from the size of a gold dollar up to that of a quarter eagle.  Through these the dirt, gravel, and gold are all carried by the water upon the apron and into the body below, leaving only the pebbles, too large to be passed through, in the hopper, which are thrown out by raising it in the hands, and by a sudden forward, then backward motion, depositing them on one side in a heap.  To facilitate this operation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:the hopper is sometimes made with hinges, by which means, by the raising the forward end, the dirt falls over behind.  There is generally a handle, so placed on one side that the cradle may be rocked with the left hand, leaving it to the choice of the person rocking whether to stand or sit while at work.  The dirt taken from the hole is turned into the hopper at the top.  The person, rocking the cradle with his left hand, at the same time uses his right in dipping up continually ladles of water, which he dashes upon the dirt in the hopper.  Twenty-five buckets of dirt are generally washed through, the mass in the body of the cradle being occasionally stirred up to prevent its hardening, and thus causing the gold to slide over it and be lost.  It is then drawn off into a pan through holes at the bottom of the cradle, and "panned out," or washed, in the same way as in prospecting.  While this is being done by one of the company, it is common for the others to spend the ten minutes' interval in resting themselves.  Seated upon the rocks about their companion, they watch the ridge of gold as it dimples brightly up amid the black sand, seeming to me always <HI REND="italics">the smile of hope</HI>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 7th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>This morning witnessed an instance of that remarkable success in mining which rarely occurs, but which, when it takes place, turns the heads of so many.  I might aptly quote Virgil's figurative description of Rumor, and apply it to these gold stories.  They go out quite respectable in appearance, furnished with hat and cane at the start, but, as they proceed, they suddenly expand to the proportions of Hercules, with his trunk of a tree for a club.  We met this story long afterward, after it had returned from its voyage to the States and to Europe, and, but for its having claimed Salmon Falls as its birth-place, it could not have been recognized at all.  The facts were simply these: Two Irishmen followed the "lead" of the Jordan brothers, who had made their gold by penetrating into a bank which had evidently been detached from the mountains behind in some convulsion of nature, and pushed forward over the bar.  They commenced in the bank at the edge of the bar, and when they reached the line in which the Jordans had found their vein, they were so fortunate as to find it again.  This vein is about seven inches wide, and ten feet below the surface of the bank, and is imbedded in a stratum of hard clay, through which the fine scale gold is richly sprinkled.  The vein runs, in a compact body, diagonally across the claims which have been and are being "worked out," and so on, in a straight line, to the edge of the bar, where it is broken, scattered, and lost by its descent.  At this remarkable place, these two men, before breakfast this morning, took out $422.  As I witnessed their success, for we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:are working within three yards of them, and when I held a large bottle, nearly full of the beautiful gold, in my hands, I was at first conscious of feelings of elation and hope.  This has given place, this evening, to temporary despondency, for I have been compelled to contrast our own small operations with their brilliant success.  Poor Jemmie, one of these Irishmen, and who had never before been the owner of a sovereign, said to me to-day, "Every body is talking about my good luck, but, I don't know how it is, I can't feel so; and, faith, I think <HI REND="italics">a sovereign looks to me more</HI>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 8th, Sunday.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>All the miners upon the bar, with the exception of one man, who is working by himself below, have laid aside their labors for the day.  This is, partly at least, owing to a regard for its sacredness.  And when may we be so much sustained by the encouragements, cheered by the promises, or influenced by the restraints of religion, as in the circumstances in which we are now placed?  Religion--Heaven's most precious gift to man--comes and offers to lead us, and to be with us in all our weary exile from home.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 9th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>To-day we have made $20 each.  One of the conclusions at which we are rapidly arriving is, that the chances of our making a fortune in the gold mines are about the same as those in favor of our drawing a prize in a lottery.  No kind of work is so uncertain.  A miner may happen upon a good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 10th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>We made $3 each to-day.  This life of severe hardship and exposure has affected my health.  Our diet consists of hard bread, flour, which we eat half cooked, and salt pork, with occasionally a salmon which we purchase of the Indians.  Vegetables are not to be procured.  Our feet are wet all day, while a hot sun shines down upon our heads, and the very air parches the skin like the hot air of an oven.  Our drinking water comes down to us thoroughly impregnated with the mineral substances washed through the thousand cradles above us.  After our days of labor, exhausted and faint, we <HI REND="italics">retire</HI>
090.sgm: --if this word may be applied to the simple act of lying down in our clothes--robbing our feet of their boots to make a pillow of them, and wrapping our blankets about us, on a bed of pine boughs, or on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Aug. 20th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>After my last date I was prostrated at once by the acclimating disease of the country, and rendered as helpless as a child.  All day and all night long I was alone under my oak, and without those kind attentions so necessary in sickness, and which can not be had here.  I was reduced to a very low state, with but little hope, under the circumstances, of recovery.  It did seem hard to lie down to die there, and to think that I was no more to see my beloved family.  Yet I feared not to die.  Indeed, I marked off the spot under the oak where my grave should be, and prayed for submission to God's righteous will, and that his love would protect and bless those dear to me.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The lines of an Englishman, addressed, as he was dying at the mines, "to a gold coin," vividly described my feelings at that time:</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"For thee, for thee, vile yellow slave,<LB>I left a heart that loved me true!<LB>I crossed the tedious ocean-wave,<LB>To roam in climes unkind and new.<LB>The cold wind of the stranger blew<LB>Chill on my withered heart--the grave<LB>Dark and untimely met my view--<LB>And all for thee, vile yellow slave!"<LB></HI>
090.sgm:<P>At this critical time, a gentleman from New Orleans, hearing of my case, came up to see me, and gave me a few pills, which, fortunately, he had with him.  They checked the disease, and after a few hours I could eat a bird shot and cooked for me by a kind friend.  Not soon shall I forget this noblehearted friend, B.  Rough as a grisly bear, he was yet one of nature's noblemen.  At home he filled, at one time, the office of sheriff.  He said that the office cost him too much, and was making him poor.  If he was sent to seize a destitute woman's effects for rent, he would be sure to pay that rent, and then would send her a bag of flour from his own farm.  Thus we learn that many of the most valuable traits of character and excellencies of heart lie, like the purest gold, concealed beneath a rough surface.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Not thinking it best, in the feeble state of my health, to return to mining immediately, as soon as I was strong enough, with my blankets upon my back, I walked to "Sutter's Mill," now named Coloma.  When I first reached the country, a school had been offered me in this place at a stipulated compensation of $16 a day.  After spending a few days with Mr. W., one of the two who discovered the first gold, while engaged in digging a mill-race for Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>On reaching Salmon Falls, to my surprise I found Mr. C., a French gentleman, and who had formerly had the charge of the French classes in my seminary, and who was now waiting to invite me to join himself and a friend, a dentist from Philadelphia, in a prospecting tour upon the north and middle forks.  We spent two weeks in this exploring tour, and on our return to Salmon Falls spent several days in mining there.  When all our expenses were paid and a dividend made, we had $2 each, the result of three weeks of hard toil.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Hearing of good diggings at Weaver's Creek, I proposed to my companions to go over, and, after prospecting, send them word.  One of them accompanied me on my way as far as Coloma.  As he was leaving me to return, after spending the night together in an emigrant's wagon we found by the roadside, a miner who had just arrived, after a long and dangerous journey across the plains, rode up to me.  He told me he was without money, and without provisions or tools for mining, having exhausted his means on his long journey.  This miner, named W., had been a Texas Ranger.  When he told me his condition, I went with him into Coloma, and succeeded in procuring all he wanted on a credit of a few days.  He manifested his gratitude by offering to pack my provisions with his own upon his mule, and to accompany me wherever I was going.  After traveling three miles, we stopped under a tree to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>In the morning we found, to our surprise, that we had been sleeping in the middle of the road, and within a few yards of us was a fine spring of water.  Yesterday morning we reached Weaver's Creek, and, after prospecting some hours, located ourselves on the spot where we now are at work, with some good prospect of success.  Just below us is a Georgia miner, who showed me to-day nine pounds of gold he made last week with the assistance of two hired men.  The mountains here are very precipitous and abrupt, hanging over our heads in wild grandeur.  The creek is only accessible through wild ravines and over steep mountains.  Owing to their great depth, and their being shut up on all sides by mountains so lofty that the sun rises two hours later, and sets two hours earlier than upon the plains, the heat is most intense.  We have spent our first day in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:making preparations for our work.  W. is now putting up a brush arbor, to guard us more effectually against the heat of the sun.  Beneath the same large and wide-spreading tree are two other companies of miners.  In one of these companies is a Missourian, shivering beneath the hot sun with a violent attack of fever and ague.  For several days I have remonstrated with him against going into the cold water when heated, and standing there while washing out the gold.  To-day he became much heated, and in this state repeated the experiment, and in ten minutes was seen creeping into his blankets.  In a little time he sent for me.  His look was very wild and wandering as I went to his side, and he said, looking up shivering into the tree above him, "Woods, if you don't remove this tree, my fever never <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Weaver's Creek, Aug. 21st.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Our mining company has been to-day increased, two others having joined us, making our number five.  One of these has been engaged in walling in a spring where we obtain our drinking-water--another is making a cradle.  The others have been employed in removing the stones and top soil, and carrying the auriferous dirt on handbarrows, made of hides, down to the edge of the water, ready to be washed.  From every indication, we have "struck a rich lead."  We find much gold on the rocks: on one I counted twenty-five scales.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Aug. 22d.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>We have finished our cradle, and washed a little dirt this forenoon, which yielded us about $10 in all.  Our hopes are bright for the morrow.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Aug. 23d.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>How is "the gold become dim!"  After <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:all our preparations and hopes, our toil early and late, toil of the most laborious kind, digging down in the channel of the river till the water was up to our knees, giving ourselves barely time to eat, we have made but $4 each.  We sat down upon the rocks, and looked at the small ridge of gold in the pan, and then at each other.  One fell to swearing, another to laughing; I tried to say some encouraging things.  Our way indeed is dark, and great are our difficulties, and oft-repeated our failures, and we experience the bitterness of the "hope deferred which maketh the heart sick," but our motto must be <HI REND="italics">press on</HI>
090.sgm:.  The motives which induced us to come here were good--our object is good--then, trusting in God's merciful providence, let us <HI REND="italics">persevere</HI>
090.sgm:<P>One young man near us has just died.  He was without companion or friend--alone in his tent.  Not even his name could be discovered.  We buried him, tied down his tent, leaving his effects within.  Thus is a home made doubly desolate.  Years will pass, and that loved son, or brother, or husband still be expected, and the question still repeated, Why don't he come?  Right below me, upon a root of our wide-spreading oak, is seated an old man of threescore and ten years.  He left a wife and seven children at home, whose memory he cherishes with a kind of devotion unheard of before.  He says when he is home-sick he can not cry, but it makes him sick at his stomach.  He is an industrious old man, but has not made enough to buy his provisions, and we have given him a helping hand.  Is it surprising that many fly to gambling, and more to drink, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Aug. 25th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Yesterday I returned to Salmon Falls, and am again encamped beneath the old oak upon the hill, Mr. C. and his friend being with me.  They have slung their hammocks up among the branches, where they sleep comfortably, protected from the ants and vermin.  My bed is, as usual, upon the ground, where even my night-bag does not guard me from the annoying attacks of the ants and lizards.  Last night, after I had fallen asleep, my companions were aroused by hearing a ciote barking near us, and soon they saw him come and smell of my hands and face, seeming to doubt whether he could take a bite without being detected.</P>
090.sgm:<P>A company of nineteen have just commenced damming the river at the head of an island above the falls, nearly a mile in length, by which they expect to lay bare the channel, on one side, the whole length of the island.  The proceedings of a meeting of the company to-day, with reference to my admission, were truly Californian.  It was first resolved that I should be admitted, and then, as they had been at work two days, that I should furnish the company five bottles of brandy as the condition of my membership.  The brandy was bought and drank, and then a committee waited upon me to notify me that I was a member, and that the trader had furnished them brandy to the amount of $10 on my account.  As they knew that there was no other way by which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>On my way from Weaver's Creek yesterday, I made the acquaintance of an intelligent gentleman from Washington City, who had held there a profitable office under government, and had left a family behind him.  He came hoping to better a good condition.  A few days labor in the mines was sufficient to convince him that it would have been better to "let well enough alone."  His is not a solitary case.  The mines are full of such.  The wonderful instances of success which those at home are made to believe are common, are about in the proportion of one to a thousand.  Of the nine hundred and ninety-nine cases of failure, or at least of limited success, those at a distance know nothing--nothing of the privations and discouragements, trials, dangers, and deaths.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Aug. 26th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>On my way to the place for preaching to-day, I stepped into a hornet's nest, and was badly stung on my hand.  These hornets, called "yellow jackets," live around and in our tents, and share our provisions.  I have had twenty of them on my plate at once.  My hand was much swollen, and I feared I should be unable to fulfill my engagement with the company by preaching to them.  The kindness of the wife of one of the miners, who brought a bottle of hartshorn from the tent, and bathed my hand with it, soon relieved me.  Our church was "God's first temple."  My audience were seated upon the grass on the river bank, beneath a cluster of pine trees.  There they were, from all the states--from Europe, from Africa, from Oceanica.  Such hours of worship <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sept. 3d.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>We are yet at work throwing a dam over the river.  It would be thought, from the manner in which some members of the company talk about what they "know must be" in the channel of the river, that they expect to do no more work after this.  A perfect Mohammedan heaven, with its tree bearing every luxury, its beautiful treasures, its arbors where no care or trouble exist, seem ready to be revealed as soon as the water which curtains them over shall be drawn aside.  An interesting incident occurred to-day.  A young Englishman in our company, from the Society Islands, was returning to his tent during <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:the interval at noon for lunch and rest.  On his way, one of the many strangers he met inquired the way to certain mines below.  From this they fell into a conversation upon some indifferent topic, and both being wearied, they sat down, side by side, upon a rock, little thinking what an interesting and beautiful revelation was about to be made to them.  In the conversation, one incidentally inquired of the other where he was from.  "From the Society Islands," was the reply.  With an awakened interest in his manner, he inquired, "Which island?"  "Tahiti," was the answer.  He looked into the face of the other with a searching gaze, and with deep emotion inquired, "What is your name?"  "H.," he said.  " <HI REND="italics">You are my brother</HI>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sept. 8th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Our damming operation has been an entire failure.  We spent many days in constructing the dam, which, when completed, drained a large portion of the river.  When this was done, we thoroughly prospected the whole, and found nothing.  The banks and bars of the river were rich in some places, but there was not a grain of gold in the channel.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sept. 9th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Attended preaching at Mormon Island to-day.  Being late out, I called to spend the night with a company of gentlemen from Cincinnati, who are encamped in a solitary place some two miles below Salmon Falls, upon the river.  We had just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sept. 15th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Upon a bar above our dam some miners lately met with some success.  Rumors of this success, but much exaggerated, were circulated.  Ounces were reported pounds.  The change at once was magical.  Trading tents, the signs of rival physicians, eating and gambling booths have sprung up, and the noise and confusion of a large village are heard.  More than a hundred men are at work upon the bar.  The auriferous dirt must be taken a quarter of a mile to the river to be washed.  Some do this by packing the dirt in bags upon mules, and some pack this upon their own backs.  One company, from Hartford, gave us a surprise this morning.  They had with them a quantity of hose, and by this means brought the water from the river upon the bar, thus saving the labor of packing the dirt.  The gold is chiefly found in one vein, running in nearly a direct line at right angles to the river.  The few who have found this vein have done comparatively well.  All the rest "spend their labor for that which is not bread."  A company of Cincinnati miners have invited me to work with them a "claim" upon this bar.  They have just told me that the Indians came last night in large numbers, and made an attack upon their camp, which they were compelled to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sept. 18th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>There is but little dirt upon this bar, and it is now regarded as "worked out," and the miners are leaving as fast as they came.  Our company have made upon the bar $65 each.  I have been now three months in the mines, and have made $390.  There is much sickness here.  One half of the whole population are sick.  I have to-day been informed of the mournful death of a merchant from Philadelphia, a fellow-voyager from Cape San Lucas.  He was the object of anxious solicitude to his friends soon after his arrival at San Francisco.  He had come on with bright hopes, which were sadly disappointed.  To drown his sorrows and disappointments, he had given himself up to drink.  Many times had they expostulated with him, but in vain.  He died at San Francisco.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sept. 30th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Left Salmon Falls on Wednesday last for San Francisco.  My object in taking this journey was to get my letters from home.  On my arrival in the country I had received letters, but it is now five months since my last were dated.  My anxiety to hear from my family had become very great.  A friend offered me the use of a vicious mule of the journey to Sacramento.  No bridle could be borrowed, and, besides, I was to be mounted upon a pack-saddle without stirrups.  Imagine me, then, as thus starting off, my hair and beard of truly patriarchal length, all unshorn and unshaven.  Such superfluities as coat, vest, collar, cravat, &amp;c., were only remembered with the other comforts once enjoyed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>At Sacramento I inquired for a bag of clothing which I supposed had been stored in the place, and, after a long search, it was pointed out to me hanging in a tree-top in the town.  The friend with whom I left it in charge to store had put his own clothing in it, and, to avoid paying the exorbitant price charged for storage, had deposited it where found.  On reaching San Francisco, after a tedious voyage of five days, I hastened at once to the office of Livingston &amp; Co. to get my letters.  When I inquired for them, I was told there were a number for me, but, on looking for them, it was found that they had been forwarded, only the day before, to the mines.  My disappointment was great.  All the other privations and trials to which I had been subject were truly light compared with this.  But, like them all, it had this good effect: it led me to set a higher and more true estimate upon the blessings of our native land.  How priceless, when thus deprived of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>San Francisco, Oct. 19th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Have spent nearly three weeks in this city, waiting for letters.  Col. Moore, post-master, kindly interested himself in the recall of those sent to the mountains, but they have not been received.  Two mail steamers have arrived since I have been here, and, though three mails were due, have brought none.  Not only one gulf, but parts of two oceans and one continent, are between me and my family, while the only comfort which reaches me is the thought that those I love are under the protecting care of an Almighty Friend.</P>
090.sgm:<P>There is much sickness now in this city.  Many come down sick from the mines.  The situation of such is desperate indeed.  There is a heartless unconcern in the community generally to the sufferings and wants of the many who are dying wretched deaths in the midst of them.  It may not, perhaps, be possible that it should be otherwise.  Every man is too much occupied with his own concerns to be able to search out objects of charity; and there are so many such cases constantly recurring, as to induce a feeling of indifference, the result of familiarity with the sufferings of others.  I was present at a religious meeting when this subject was mentioned, and means <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>The house in which I have passed my time since I came to the city is one occupied by Rev. Mr. W., in the suburbs--soon to be the heart of the city.  Across the street from us are some canvas tents, and below these a shed-house, in which is kept a restaurant; then comes a house made of hides stretched over a frame, and still lower down are more tents, adobe and frame houses, containing men, women, and children from all parts of the world.  And there below me extends, far away, the noble bay, covered with its ships from all nations, to which new arrivals are daily added.  Throngs of people, horses, wagons, oxen, carts, and mules, are ever passing.  And this moment there goes toward the "Presidio" a heavy piece of ordnance.  Here follow two merry young Americans on horseback, each with a gayly-dressed sign&tilde;orita before him, both without bonnets, and laughing merrily; and hear those glad and happy shouts of children!  Stretched away before me is the world of San Francisco--and what a world!  How the tide of human life flows and dashes upon its shores!  Crowds every day arrive, and other crowds every day leave.  Old friends meet, exchange a few words, and hasten on to the shrine of <HI REND="italics">Mammon</HI>
090.sgm:.  Multitudes die, the waves close over them, and they are forgotten.  It can hardly be supposed that people come to California <HI REND="italics">to live</HI>
090.sgm:, since they are here only <HI REND="italics">preparing to live</HI>
090.sgm: --much less do they come here <HI REND="italics">to die</HI>
090.sgm:<P>The indifference of a class of the population here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Last evening I walked around to about fifty of the gambling tables.  A volume could not describe their splendor or their fatal attractions.  The halls themselves are vast and magnificent, spread over with tables and implements for gambling.  The pictures which decorate them no pen of mine shall describe.  The bar-rooms are furnished with the most expensive liquors, no care or attention being spared in the <HI REND="italics">compounding and coloring</HI>
090.sgm: of them.  The music is performed often by professors, and is of the best kind.  The tables are sometimes graced, or disgraced, by females, who came at first masked, and who are employed to deal the cards, or who come to play on their own account.  "The Bank" consists of a solid pile of silver coin, surmounted by the golden currency of as many countries as there are dupes about the table.  Often a sack or two of bullion, which has cost the poor miner months of labor, is placed upon the top of all.  Sufficient money to send one home independent changed owners during my short stay.  A boy of ten years came to one of the tables with a few dollars.  His "run of luck" was surprising, and to him bewildering.  In ten minutes he was the owner of a <HI REND="italics">pile</HI>
090.sgm: of silver, with some gold.  In one minute more he was without a dollar.  Thinking by one turn of the cards to double his profits, he lost the whole.  The instances of great good luck on the part of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>There are but few women yet in California.  Several merchants, and others who intend to spend some years in the country, send for their families.  But the situation of these ladies is not the most comfortable, owing to the want of society, and to the utter impossibility of procuring servants in the family.  By the death of their husbands, the condition of the wives would be pitiable, though there seem to be enough who would persuade them to change their solitary life as soon as possible.  A lady now in this city, soon after her arrival here lost her husband.  Before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>The price of labor is yet very high, though not as high as it was in the spring.  Good carpenters and masons command their $8 a day.  The citizens frequently send their clothes to the Sandwich and Society Islands, and even to Valparaiso, and other places on the coast, to be washed, to avoid the great expense for washing here.  All kinds of goods are lower than they were a few months since.  Coal, which was $100, is now $9 a ton.  Vegetables have fallen from $1 to 25 cts. a lb.  Eggs maintain their high price, selling at $20 a dozen.</P>
090.sgm:<P>After much inquiry, we have determined to go, for our next mining season, to the southern mines.  We are led to this determination chiefly on account of the better health enjoyed there.</P>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>SOUTHERN MINES.</P>
090.sgm:<P>HAVING made our preparations, and engaged passage on board a schooner for Stockton, on the 19th day of October we started.  Our company was made up chiefly of young gentlemen from Boston.  Our sail up the bays and the San Joaquin River was accomplished in six days.  We furnished our own provisions, which, owing to the length of our journey, proved insufficient.  Notwithstanding the very heavy dews, we were compelled to sleep on deck.  In consequence, one of our company took so severe a cold that he returned to San Francisco from Stockton, abandoning mining; while another, a young man from Uxbridge--alas! will disregard all the earnest advice of his friends to return, and will go on, a doomed man--will reach the mines, and we shall there leave him in his grave.  Poor C., may his sad story be a warning to multitudes of young men, having good business and good prospects at home, to remain there, contented with small, but steady and sure gains!  Sad, sad was his fate to be, for we were soon to bury him, in sight, and within a few yards of those rich deposites, the exaggerated accounts of which are now luring him, and will lure so many others to their ruin!  Poor friend! even the hardened muleteers, having charge of our provisions, pity his sorrows, and walk <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:themselves, that they may supply a mule for his faltering and fainting steps.  All see death in his haggard countenance and sunken eyes, yet <HI REND="italics">he sees it not</HI>
090.sgm:.  Never shall I forget my interview with him, while I walked by the mule on which he was riding, a few days only before his death.  He was telling me of the bright and happy future before him.  Taking from his vest pocket a daguerreotype, he placed it in my hands, requesting me to open it.  What simplicity, what truth were portrayed in that lovely countenance!  Well might he think his future a happy one.  I could hardly conceal from him my emotion as I returned his priceless treasure, and thought, <HI REND="italics">never</HI>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Stockton, Oct. 25th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>An escape so remarkable occurred to-day that it should not be omitted.  Calling at the store of Paige &amp; Webster to purchase provisions, I stood conversing with the clerk, the bag containing the supplies lying at my feet.  Thinking the string was loose, I stooped over to examine it.  At that very moment there was the sharp crack of a pistol in the store adjoining, and separated only by a cloth partition.  On rising hastily, I perceived that the bullet had passed through the tent directly in range of my body.  Without moving, I took the measurement, and found that, had I not moved the <HI REND="italics">very second</HI>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Our journey from Stockton to Marepoosa, a distance of one hundred and twenty miles, was accomplished between Oct. 27th and Nov. 15th.  We took our own provisions and cooking utensils with us, there being few eating tents on the way.  After three days' travel the rainy season set in, and we found it necessary to pitch our tents--sometimes doing this in the mud, spreading down our blankets upon the wet and cold ground, there to remain for two or three days.  After we had crossed the plain of the San Joaquin and entered among the mountains, we had fine scenery and beautiful sunsets.  Our guide was endeavoring to take us by a new track to the mines, and on our march, Nov. 2d, we were lost among the mountains.  After a consultation, the guide and muleteers concluded to cross a high mountain, without a path and very steep.  In ascending, two of the mules missed their footing, rolling over and over, down the precipitous sides of the hill, till arrested uninjured by some rock or stump.  By the time we had reached the summit of the mountain, and passed across an extent of table-land to an abrupt bluff, at the foot of which was to be seen the beautiful Tuolumne, night had crept upon us.  With the night came torrents of rain, driving through our thin canvas roof in a shower of large drops.  During the night I was conscious of a sensation of coldness which had completely benumbed me.  When sufficiently awake to ascertain the cause, I found that, owing to the unevenness of the ground, I had slid down till my feet were immersed in a cold bath outside the tent.  All the next day we kept our tent, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>On one of the mornings of our march, my feet being lame, I started in advance of the train, that I might take time to rest, not expecting to see the party again till they overtook me at the end of the day's march.  When I left, all preparations for a start had been made, and the muleteers had gone out for their mules.  Two of them, however, were missing, and so much of the day was spent before they were found, that the guide concluded to remain in camp till the next morning.  Upon reaching the spring where I supposed we were to encamp, and having quenched my thirst, hungry and weary, I went to a large and shady tree a short distance from the path, and sat down to await my companions.  For some time I occupied my mind with reading the "Pilgrim's Progress," which I had in my pocket.  Soon, however, Bunyan's dream began to mingle with my own, and I fell into a long, deep sleep.  When I awoke, bewildered and confused, it was near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:night, and nowhere were my companions to be seen.  Had they passed me during the day, and gone on to the next encampment, or had some accident delayed them, were becoming anxious questions to me.  I perceived, by new tracks, that several trains had passed while I was asleep.  Was mine one of them?  I determined--why, I hardly know--to retrace my morning steps.  But soon a new source of anxiety arose.  My course in the morning had been across a plain at the foot of the mountains, till at length it brought me up among them.  As I descended the last steeps of these, and saw the plain extended out below me, far in the distance, and very far from the trail I had come, I saw a mule-train which I thought must be mine, and concluded that I had been all this time wandering out of my way.  Fixing their direction in my mind before descending upon the plain, and while the sun was setting, I struck across, leaving my path, and hoping to intersect theirs by the time they should come into camp.  If I could not effect this, I must spend the night without food, or water, or blankets, with also the prospect of being <HI REND="italics">lost</HI>
090.sgm: among the mountains.  This, in my situation, would be attended with much inconvenience and some danger.  Several have been lost in this manner, and never seen again.  At length I succeeded in reaching the train, and found it was not mine; but I had the satisfaction of hearing from my companions, and that they were still at their last night's camp.  At about ten o'clock I reached our encampment.  Tired and hungry as I was, I stood for some time struck with the scene before me.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>As we approach the mines, accounts vary greatly as to the prospects of the miners.  Those who are, like ourselves, going toward the Marepoosa diggings, hear a thousand exaggerated stories of success; but the multitude who are already leaving this region for other mines bring back the most discouraging reports.  As we have found it elsewhere, so it is here; at a distance--in Stockton, in San Francisco, in the States, the Marepoosa diggings are regarded as very rich, and are thought by some to be the ancient Ophir.  Now that we are within a few miles, the enchantment which distance lends has vanished.  It is found that, in general, the miners are not making a living.  At the River Mercedes we saw some Indians, called Savage's Indians, from an American with that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:name, who shot the chief and took his place in the tribe.  He was formerly a companion of Colonel Fremont.  These Indians were fishing for salmon, at which business they are very expert and successful.  All the Indians in the country are <HI REND="italics">openly</HI>
090.sgm:<P>I have seen but few birds among the mountains of California.  The large French woodpecker is the most common.  It feeds upon the acorn, of which it lays up immense supplies after they have fallen from the trees.  It can not put its stores in the ground, for the bears and squirrels would scratch them up and devour them.  They pick a hole in the bark of the tree, of such a size that the acorn will exactly fit into it; then they fly down, and, taking one in the bill, drive it deep into the hole.  There are thousands of these acorns sometimes in a single tree, which have the appearance of so many bullets shot into it.  There is a singular species of the frog, similar to the "horned frog" of Texas.  It is as large as the common frog, but covered with scales, with two of the same scales, but larger, protruding out from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>We passed, on our way, through "Fremont's camp," where, a year since, the colonel had a large number of Indians working for him.  It is now quite a settlement; and the very day we passed through, a company of sixty men was organized to pursue and punish the Indians for various depredations lately committed.  Finding so little which was favorable in our prospect, we started for Sherlock's diggings, led by new stories of wonderful success.  The two brothers Sherlock, who discovered this place, are said to have taken out $30,000 from a small square spot of ground.  They went to Monterey to deposit their money and make preparations to continue their profitable labors.  While there, in an unguarded manner, one day, they let fall some hints concerning their success.  These were not lost upon two sailors belonging to a man-of-war then lying in the bay, and who happened to be present.  They returned on board, asked and obtained a furlough for seven weeks, made their preparations, and when the Sherlocks started, they started also.  It was not long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:before the Sherlocks suspected the purpose of the sailors, and, to elude them, very quietly arose at midnight, packed their mules, and silently proceeded on their way.  What was their surprise in the morning to find their pursuers still following them.  Every means was resorted to in order to avoid them or mislead their search, but all in vain.  They were always <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Here we encountered severe hardships, camping in leaky tents, upon wet and muddy ground, from which we raised ourselves only by spreading down pine boughs beneath us, being chilled with the cold rain and snow.  Yesterday a friend was seated by me upon a log at the opening of the tent.  "Oh!" said he, "let me be at home with my wife and little daughter, and I will live on one meal a day.  I have often wondered," he continued, "how the poor Irish <HI REND="italics">could live</HI>
090.sgm: in their hovels, but look here at <HI REND="italics">our home</HI>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Nov. 16th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>To-day we commenced our labors at Sherlock's contracting to pay $5 a day for an old cradle, while the sum total of our first day's labor has been one dollar.  One of my companions amused us by telling us, while speaking of the wrong ideas those form of the mines who have never seen them, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Nov. 17th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>The sum total made to-day is 25 cents; and this when provisions are selling at $1 25 a pound, with the prospect of being still higher.  We returned this evening to our camp tired and hungry, and, finding very little here to eat, have put on a kettle of acorns to boil, upon which, with a little venison, we shall make our supper.  There are many depredations committed by the Indians.  Mules are stolen, and driven away to be eaten.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Nov. 19th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>To-day we have made 50 cents each.  This evening, as I was passing through the village on my way to the trading-tent, I perceived an old, drunken sailor cooking some nice steaks from the grisly bear.  I had never yet tasted the meat, and when I expressed a curiosity to do this, a tin plate, with a generous slice of the savory meat, was placed before me on the ground, with a bottle of brandy.  The latter I eschewed, while the former I chewed, and found it delicious--similar to young pork.  While we were enjoying the feast, the old sailor related to me a remarkable instance of success in his own case a few days before.  His account was corroborated by others, who gave me some particulars which he withheld.  He was walking, or rather staggering, for he had been drinking pretty deeply, upon the bank, below which the miners were hard at work.  As he was thus proceeding, singing as he went, he kicked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Nov. 21st.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>It is now about seven months since my last letter from my family.  My feelings may then be imagined when, late yesterday afternoon, I heard there were letters for me at Fremont's camp, eight miles distant, over the mountain.  Although suffering greatly from blistered feet, I started early this morning, after passing a sleepless night.  Alas! what was my disappointment at finding my letters were from San Francisco, soliciting the votes and influence of our company in favor of the election of a candidate to some office!  Indeed, it is not surprising that, amid such trials and hardships, so many become disheartened, and resort to forbidden and fatal pleasures and stimulants.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Dec. 1st.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Finding all our efforts unavailing, and that none around us were succeeding, we visited Aqua Frio some days since, and have now removed here.  There does not appear to be much doing here, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Dec. 3d.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>Lying awake in my tent last night, I overheard three miners, who had come in partially intoxicated at midnight to their tent, within a few feet of us, talking over their plans.  It seemed that one of them had just weighed the gold they had made that day, and found it nine ounces.  They were to be up early, and start for the same place again.  I conformed my movements to theirs the next forenoon, with an experienced miner for a companion.  With our picks and spades, we soon reached the place where they were at work.  They were in the middle of the channel, having turned the stream from its course, up to their knees in the mud and water, while one of their number was constantly employed in "bailing out."  We prospected near them for a few hours, as they told us many others had done, unsuccessfully.  They did not themselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Dec. 4th.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>There was a large fall of snow last night, which pressed so heavily upon our tent that it fell in upon us; but we kept our beds till morning, the bank of snow above us adding not a little to the warmth of our blankets.  I went down, after breakfast, to the diggings, and brushing away the snow, and breaking the ice, attempted to wash out some gold in a pan; but I made nothing. Becoming thoroughly chilled, with my hands and feet frostbitten, I returned to my tent; but here it is almost as bad.  The canvas, of which our tent is made, is under the snow, our provisions <HI REND="italics">scarce</HI>
090.sgm:<P>A miner related in my hearing to-day the manner in which he employed others to work for him.  He marked off a claim ten feet square, and commenced digging in one corner of it.  Finding it likely to be a more serious job than he anticipated, and being tired of it, and yet not willing to abandon it without knowing what lay at the bottom, he concealed several pieces of gold, one weighing two ounces, in a corner of his claim.  Watching his opportunity when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>On Monday, Dec. 10th,</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>we started with a mule-train bound for Stockton, which took a few pounds of freight for us, while I packed twenty pounds upon my back.  The first day we traveled fifteen miles over the mountains, and saw hundreds going to and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:from the mines.  Burns's tent was so filled with travelers that we were compelled to sleep out in the open air, which was so severely cold that the water froze by our side.  The next night we slept at Montgomery's ranch, after walking twenty-three miles.  Spreading our blankets down upon the ground, beneath a canvas roof, we slept so closely packed that no person could have stepped between us.  For breakfast we had tea, hard bread, beans, and pork, and a few pickles, for all which we paid $2 each.  The following day we traveled in the rain twenty-five miles, fording the Tuolumne.  My companions had all dropped behind, half frozen and tired out, seeking shelter and rest in some trading or eating tents we had passed.  I pushed on with the mule-train, hoping at night to reach a comfortable shelter; but night found us completely exhausted, and far from any settlement.  The company traveling with the mule-train had a tent, but there was no spare room which they could offer me.  I had to make up my mind to spend the night alone in the drenching rain, and it was a night I shall never forget.  A large logfire was burning, by which I sat till a late hour, when I happened to remember that I had seen a large hollow tree by the road side, at some little distance from our camp.  Taking a blazing brand, I went and examined the tree, and found that the hollow would afford my body a shelter by sitting upright, and leaving my feet exposed to the rain.  I kindled a fire, collecting some brush and bark with which to replenish it during the night.  Then, with the ax I had borrowed, I removed a quantity of dead <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:leaves and filthy rubbish accumulated at the bottom of my cavern.  To my alarm, I found among this rubbish fresh marks of a large bear, which had lately found refuge here from a storm such as now drove me to its shelter. But there seem no alternative, and I thought, besides, that my fire would be a protection against wild beasts; so I wrapped my blankets about me, and, sinking down into my novel bed, with my feet in a cold bath, I listened to the pattering of the rain, thinking of those far away.  Soon my fire began to fail, and I had placed the last piece of bark upon it, and fallen asleep.  When I awoke it was pouring in torrents, and my fire was entirely out.  Then came thoughts of the bear, and I instinctively drew in my legs, not wishing to place temptation within his reach, should he be prowling about me.  It would not do; I was nearly frozen; the water began to find its way into my bed, which I apprehended I should soon be compelled to share with old Bruin.  Then it was so dark.  I got up, took my blankets over my arm, and started to return to the logfire, which I saw dimly burning in the distance.  In my haste, I forgot that there was a bend in the bank of the stream below us, making it necessary for me to take a circuit round in order to reach my companions.  I soon found myself lodged among the bushes and stones at the bottom of the bank.  Then came over me a nervous feeling like a nightmare, and I could already feel myself in the grasp of the grisly bear--his claws and teeth were in my flesh.  Dropping my ax, and every thing but my blankets, and losing one of my shoes, I began an imaginary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:scramble and flight from my imaginary pursuer.  The remainder of the night I passed, wrapped up in my blankets, by the log-fire.  A walk of twelve miles the day following brought me to the Stanislaus, where I was to separate from my companions, who had not yet come up--they going on to Stockton, and I to the Stanislaus diggings.  The rain continued to pour down.  Little dreamed our friends at home of our situation then!  With scarcely a dollar in our pockets, a long journey before us, cold, hungry, and wet, our oppressed hearts were ready to sink.  Alas! little did I anticipate what a gloomy future was before two of those companions!  One of them was the only and the idolized son of his parents, and tenderly and dearly loved by his sisters.  His home possessed every comfort and convenience.  He had come far from his father's house to perish with hunger.  He resolved, "I will arise and go to my father."  But that father and that heart-broken mother he was no more to see.  A year after we parted--and oh! what a year of suffering and privation must that have been-with that companion of his boyhood and youth, he reached Chagres in most destitute circumstances.  To raise money enough to take him home, he engaged as a boatman on the river, took the fever, and died.  In consequence of my recent exposure, I had a severe cold, and was entirely unable to travel; yet I had no means of paying my expenses at a ranch.  Under these circumstances, I crossed the Stanislaus, went to the ranch of Mr. George Islip, a gentleman from Canada, and told him my situation.  "Give yourself no uneasiness," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:he said; "you are welcome as long as you choose to remain with us; all I request of you is that you will feel yourself at home."  I passed a very pleasant week with this noble-hearted man, and was treated as a brother.  The wind had blown down his house, and torn the canvas roof to ribbons, and we were without shelter from the pelting rain; but warm fires, kept up in the middle of the temporary shelter, made us comfortable.  To protect my body from the rain, I would creep under the table, managing to keep my feet near the fire.  After a week of interesting and wild adventure, I was set over the river by my friend, and started for the mines again.  The roads were very muddy, and the streams forded with difficulty.  In my first day's walk I passed three wagons which were mired--a common occurrence at this season of the year.  There were many dead animals by the road side.  My Christmas eve I spent most cheerlessly at Green Spring, and the next day reached Woods's diggings.  On the 26th Dec. I visited Sullivan's diggings, Jamestown, Yorktown, and Curtis's Creek.  A residence in this portion of the mines was, in every way, more desirable than in the more distant mines at this season.  Provisions were cheaper, and there was less danger of attacks from the Indians.  All the places I have mentioned, together with the Chinese diggings, Mormon Gulch, Sonora, and others, were a cluster of mines lying near to each other, and between the Stanislaus and Tuolumne Rivers.  At each of these places were trading tents and dwellings of the miners, chiefly of canvas, with some log and hide houses, and one or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:two frame buildings.  Sonora is the principal of these, the residence chiefly of Mexicans and Chilinos, of whom there are some twelve thousand.  Here are furnished provisions, clothing, tools, &amp;c., at almost as low rates as at Stockton.  Its hotels, restaurants, and trading tents presented a very busy appearance; and there is no place in the mines where gambling is so much <HI REND="italics">the business</HI>
090.sgm:.  Some comfortable houses have been erected here.  After visiting all the mines, and finding but indifferent prospects at any of them, I located myself at Curtis's Creek, to labor in the winter diggings.  I was without a companion, and had heard of a gentleman from New England who was desirous of sharing his tent and provisions with some one.  He had been out of health, but was supposed to be improving.  My name had been mentioned to him by a friend before I arrived, and he had expressed a desire to enter into such an arrangement as might be of mutual advantage.  He was considered a man of great intelligence and worth; and it was partly with the hope of having him as a mining companion that I had visited Curtis's.  His tent was a mile from the settlement.  Taking my roll of blankets, I walked over to see him.  Judge of my surprise, on reaching his tent, and raising the curtains at the entrance, and stepping in, to find myself standing before a <HI REND="italics">corpse</HI>
090.sgm:, laid out upon a hammock!  I learned from a colored man, who soon came in, that Mr. H. had died half an hour before.  He was alone, and seemed to have just been reaching from his bed for something.  The last sentiment to which he gave utterance was, "I believe I left home <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:a moral and a religious man; I have brought morality and religion with me, and, with God's assistance, I will keep them to the last."  Neither he nor others supposed that he was dangerously sick.  With the black man, I went out, and we selected a spot beneath a large tree, and there we dug his grave.  The noon of the next day was the time named for the funeral, and notice accordingly was sent to the various mines near by.  It being impracticable to provide a coffin, the body was wrapped in several blankets, and a quantity of pine boughs spread at the bottom of the grave.  At the time appointed for the burial, most of the miners might be seen leaving their various employments, and slowly walking in small groups toward the grave.  Another group--the bearers and friends--met them, and all proceeded together on the way.  How solemn and impressive, under those circumstances, "the burial service" of the Church, which was then performed.  An appropriate hymn was sung, and the body laid in its last repose, then covered with pine boughs, and the grave was filled up.  Having purchased the tent and a part of the provisions, I spent the two following days, assisted by a friend--young Dr. R., of New Jersey--in removing the tent, and preparing for the labors of mining.  On the Sunday following--the 30th Dec.--I was requested to go over to Woods's diggings and attend the funeral of a young man from Philadelphia.  We had formerly both listened together to the faithful preaching of the Rev. Mr. Fowles.  Could it have been anticipated, as I fixed my eye upon that healthy, intelligent countenance at the close of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:services, that in the wilds of California I should so soon be called to pronounce over him the solemn sentence--in this case sadly solemn--" <HI REND="italics">Earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 1st, 1850. It has rained hard all day.  Engaged in washing and mending clothes, cooking, writing, and reading.  Before we separated for the night, my friend, Dr. R., requested me to conduct "family worship."  It was a simple request and a simple act, like every act of faith, and appropriate to our situation and to the day, being the first of the year.  Only those who have experienced it, especially in a situation like ours, know of the refreshing fountain of comfort which springs up in the soul while kneeling before the throne of "our Father in heaven."  It was family prayer; and we realized the delightful import of this expression.  The Being to whom we addressed our prayers was at that moment looking with an eye of love upon each member of our dear families at home, and our prayers would bring peace, protection, and blessings to them.  It was family prayer; and at that moment we felt the privilege of being united with the great and happy that worship the glorious and good Being who loves and cares for all.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 2d. During the last night there was a robbery in the settlement, which caused great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Jan. 3d. It has rained hard most of the day, and there was some thunder, a very unusual occurrence in California.  Spent a part of the day and all the evening with Dr. R., singing, reading, &amp;c.  At the close of our pleasant interview, again we "lifted the heart and bent the knee" in prayer to Almighty God.  In our visits to each other on these rainy days, like the ladies at home, we often take our sewing with us.  To-day I took a pair of stockings to darn, one of my shoes to mend, and the "Democratic Review" to read.  While we plied our needles, our tongues were equally busy speaking of mutual friends and hopes.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 4th. It has been clear to-day, but, owing to the high state of the water, we could do but little.  I have been favored with an introduction to Captain Wadsworth, of Connecticut, a descendant of the captain of the same name who is famous for having concealed the charter of the colony in the Charter Oak.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Jan. 5th. It rained again; but we could not afford to be idle, though we made a mere trifle by severe and exposing labor.  To-night we have weighed our week's earnings, and find that they amount to $1 80.  It is more trying to the miner to be compelled to spend a day in idleness than to engage in the most severe labor, even though that labor be unprofitable.  I have often been driven out by my own anxious thoughts to work in a severe rain.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 6th, Sunday. A cloudy, unpleasant day.  This forenoon, made a "duff;" but what was to be done for a string with which to tie the bag?  I looked every where, but in vain.  At last I thought of my shoe-string, which I used for this purpose.  When all was ready, I found that the duff was too large for the kettle, so I boiled one end first, and then turned the other, and boiled that.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 7th. Prospected with Captain Wadsworth at the Chilian diggings.  This is an open, level field, through which a stream formerly ran, but which now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>I must again remind my reader that, if these details are uninteresting, they are yet necessary as the filling up of a miner's life.  The bright and glowing pictures presented to the public--the "news from California"--"$2,000,000 in gold-dust"--"rich discoveries"--"new diggings," &amp;c., must all be filled up with a back-ground of cloudy days, of rainy weeks, broken hopes, privations, sickness, many a gloomy death-scene, and many a lonely grave.  With how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Jan. 13th, Sunday. The roads were so impassable to-day, from the late rains, that I was unable to preach a funeral sermon at Woods's, as I had promised.  There was preaching at Curtis's in the forenoon, by a Methodist, who gave us a good sermon, its only fault being its great length.  At the close, he invited all so disposed to attend a class-meeting.  Among others, a German, having an imperfect acquaintance with our language, was called upon for his "experience."  With some reluctance and hesitation, he arose, and said these few words: "I find religion good when I do my duty; and when I don't do my duty, I find religion bad; but <HI REND="italics">I shall try to try</HI>
090.sgm:!"  In the afternoon I selected for my reading-desk and pulpit the stump of a tree which had been cut down, on a level spot, in the midst of the settlement.  The logs and large branches of this tree had not yet been removed for fire-wood, and furnished seats for my congregation.  Our worship was very primitive, and the whole scene would have been impressive to one of our assemblies at home; but we remembered, to our edification, that God looks not upon the outward appearance, but upon the heart.  The singing was excellent, conducted by a professor from the Boston Academy.  After the preaching, I invited all who wished to join a choir for mutual improvement in singing to remain.  A good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Jan. 14th. In company with Captain W. and Dr. R., selected a spot where a mountain ravine opens into the river, and a few yards below the place where a company of Frenchmen took out, a few months since, a large amount of gold.  Our best prospect was in the channel of this mountain stream.  We spent some hours in diverting the stream from its course by a dam and a canal on a small scale.  Then, by bailing, we succeeded in opening the channel.  Most of the upper soil, with the stones, must be removed, nearly to the primitive rock below, often a distance of some feet, always ankle or knee deep in the mud.  We were greatly encouraged, in the present instance, by an indication of gold rarely presented.  About four inches from the surface of the ground, and in the loose upper soil, I found a lump of gold weighing nearly three pennyweights.  Greatly cheered by this circumstance, we worked away with spade and pick, with cradle and pan, hour after hour, and were rewarded by finding in our treasury at night a few bright scales of gold, amounting to 25 cents.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 15th. This morning, notwithstanding the rain, we were again at our work.  We <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
090.sgm: work.  In sunshine and rain, in warm and cold, in sickness <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:</PAGEINFO>and health, successful or not successful, early and late, it is work, <HI REND="italics">work</HI>
090.sgm:, WORK!  <HI REND="italics">Work or perish</HI>
090.sgm:!  All around us, above and below, on mountain side and stream, the rain falling fast upon them, are the miners at work--not for <HI REND="italics">gold</HI>
090.sgm:, but for <HI REND="italics">bread</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 16th. A friend put into my hands to-day a copy of the Boston Journal.  We laid it aside to read in the evening.  But how was this to be accomplished?  The luxury of a candle we could not afford.  Our method was this: we cut and piled up a quantity of dry brush in a corner near the fire, and after supper, while one put on the brush and kept up the blaze, the other would read; and as the blaze died away, so would the voice of the reader.  Our work to-day has amounted to 80 cents each.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 17th. A very rainy, cold day.  As Captain W. is sorely afflicted with an eruption, which covers his whole body, probably the effects of having handled the "poison oak," which grows over the whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:country, we conclude to remain in, and finish the paper.  Cutaneous diseases are cured by the use of the soap-plant-- <HI REND="italics">amole</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 18th. It has continued to rain.  There has been some excitement in a ravine near where we were at work.  A company of six men found a place from which they have taken out $18 to each every day through the week.  The place is now thronged.  Every foot is taken up; and yet, of the hundreds there, not five have made more than their living.  Some only made 12 1/2 cents.  We have worked there today, and made $2 each.  This evening we have had a pleasant meeting of our choir.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 19th. A fine day.  We have made $1 each.  Upon the bank of Curtis's Creek, two men to-day opened a rich deposit, and have brought to their tent $105, while two others, hearing of their success, commenced just above, and a company of five more below them.  Those above in a short time took out $64, and those below, $112.  These instances of success, being talked of at noon, created a great excitement.  This afternoon the bar presented a busy scene, and before night every foot of the lower part of the bar was marked off and claimed.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 20th, Sunday. The singing and religious services were held to-day in the trading-tent of Mr. Capps.  My reading-desk was a brandy-cask; and perhaps this might be said in favor of the change--it had long enough been appropriated to the service of Satan, and its conversion to a better cause was not undesirable.</P>
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090.sgm:<P>Jan. 21st. The report of the success on the bar below on Saturday has gone abroad and done its work.  Many miners, much excited by the rumors, greatly exaggerated by passing through the mouths of the traders, have begun to come in.  New tents are springingup, and new faces are seen; but success through the day has been confined to the one deposit, which proves to have run in a rich vein for some sixty feet, occasionally disappearing, but always coming up again in the same line.  A company of six miners, from Illinois, made over four pounds of gold last week, then gave up their claim, supposing it exhausted, to some friends, who made three pounds more from it to-day.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 22d. In company with several experienced and successful miners, went to some of the tributaries of the Tuolumne.  We had gone three miles from home, and were prospecting some of the higher ravines, the lower being too full of water.  It had been cloudy when we started, but we were so accustomed to the rains of this country that we felt no concern; but about noon a severe, cold wind sprung up, driving before it a storm of snow.  It came cutting and freezing into our faces.  It was one of those evils which must be met.  I carried a spade in one hand, and a crow-bar in the other; and that piece of cold iron penetrated into my soul.  I thought I had never before experienced the sensation of pure, unrelieved <HI REND="italics">cold</HI>
090.sgm:.  The ice-water into which I plunged my hands half an hour since, on my return, felt warm.  We were not at all prepared for such an event.  Ah! this mountain ramble, the heavy snow-flakes and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Jan. 23d. A clear and cold day.  The ground is covered with snow.  Alone I went to my cold and cheerless work.  Those who are counting their bright yellow coins think little of the privations which have been undergone, the agonies which have been endured--think not of the living death, the dying life it has cost to draw from the mines their golden eagles.  Made to-day 75 cents.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 24th. Last night it was intensely cold, and near morning commenced snowing, which it has continued to do the whole day.  A mail-agent has come in to-day, and still no letters for me.  It is now thirty-nine weeks since my last letter from home was dated.  I would purchase one line from my wife with all the gold I have made during those thirty-nine weeks.</P>
090.sgm:<P>To-day, while a friend was seated by me, before Captain W.'s blazing fire, we were speaking of the great number of persons who come to the mines, and, after working a few days, become discouraged, and abandon mining.  He related the following instance, which he knows to have taken place.  A merchant from New York recently came up with high expectations, having made all his arrangements and preparations to carry on mining for one season.  The fascinating interest which invests this whole subject at a distance had drawn him on.  Being a strong and vigorous man, blessed with the grace of perseverance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:he attributed the want of success, of which so many complained, to their indolence or want of energy.  The question he frequently put, on his way to the mines, was, "How much may be made by <HI REND="italics">hard and persevering</HI>
090.sgm: labor?" as if he thought that <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
090.sgm: labor must succeed.  He reached the mines--saw, on the bar below him, some miners <HI REND="italics">hard</HI>
090.sgm: at work.  As he watched them, he thought, "That, indeed, is hard work, and here is an opportunity to judge for myself."  He directed the muleteer to wait while he went down to the bar.  There he saw the preparations which had been made for washing, the stones and dirt which had been removed before the gold could be reached.  He saw the men at the bottom of the pit, knee deep in mud, filling the buckets.  He followed those buckets to the cradle, watched the operation of washing the dirt through the cradle.  As they prepared to wash down in pans, he inquired, "How many buckets of dirt have been washed to procure the gold now in the machine?"  "Twenty-five," was the reply.  "And how many buckets can be washed out in a day?"  "Sometimes more and sometimes less; we wash out one hundred and fifty."  "How many men in your company?"  "Four."  While these inquiries were going on, one of the company was panning down the gold, and brought it to where they were seated upon some rocks.  "How much gold is there in that pan?"  he eagerly inquired.  One said there was $2, while the others thought there was not so much.  It was weighed, and found to be $1.62.  He could make his own calculations of their day's labor.  The sum total was $9 72; for each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Jan. 28th. Since my last date it has rained constantly, and some of the time in torrents; but little work has been done.  Yesterday a miner was tried for stealing a small amount of gold, and, upon conviction, was sentenced to receive five lashes, and to leave the mines in five days.  Reports have been circulating among us of some large lumps of gold having been found at Sonora, one of which, it is asserted, weighs seventy pounds.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Jan. 29th. It is a lovely spring morning, but the water is so high it is impossible to work.  The notes of the robin, the thrush, and the American nightingale are heard, bringing back thoughts of the homes we have left.  The miners are beginning to talk of the summer diggings upon the rivers.  Many parties have gone on exploring expeditions, and it is said that thousands of miners have all their provisions purchased, and but await the melting of the snow from the mountains to cross over and take possession of the <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
090.sgm: El Dorado.  Very little is doing here. We are not averaging a dollar a day on the whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Feb. 2d. Prospected to-day with Mr. L., of Livingston Manor, upon the Hudson River.  Mr. L. has a quiet, easy way, as he is seated upon some rock, examining the dirt, and turning over the stones at the bottom of some hole, which gives the impression to any one who may happen to be looking on from a distance that he is picking up pieces of gold.  We were thus seated to-day, and he was scraping the clay from a stone, and showed me several small scales, when two miners, who had been working all day above us, hurried down, and eagerly asked what we <HI REND="italics">had</HI>
090.sgm: found.  They would not believe when we told them, but sat there an hour, watching every movement, ready, on the appearance of the lumps, to take possession of the next claim.  Miners practice many arts to deceive others with regard to what they may be doing.  Especially is this the case if they are doing well, when they generally say they are doing nothing, reasoning as did Sir Walter Scott after he had published "Waverley," and wishing to conceal his authorship.  People had no right to ask if he was the author, and therefore it was right for him to deceive them.  I found it was better to tell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Feb. 4th. This is a day to be remembered.  <HI REND="italics">Lettersfrom home</HI>
090.sgm:!  If any one would learn the full significance of these words, let him pass ten months in California without one word from his loved ones, an unhappy exile from his own family.  They may be sick, suffering, dying, and he who should be near them, to care for, and protect, and comfort them, is far away, and knows not their condition.  It is an era in the mines--the arrival of the mail-agent.  How cheerfully are our two dollars a letter paid.  It was like receiving back my family from the <HI REND="italics">dead</HI>
090.sgm: --those letters, after so <HI REND="italics">long</HI>
090.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">weary a silence</HI>
090.sgm:.  I am <HI REND="italics">happy</HI>
090.sgm:, and I am <HI REND="italics">miserable</HI>
090.sgm:!  I am <HI REND="italics">calm</HI>
090.sgm:, and I am <HI REND="italics">fearfully excited</HI>
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090.sgm:<P>A party of individuals, from the ranches on the plains below, passed us on their way to the head-waters of the Tuolumne, in pursuit of Indians who had stolen some of their mules.  They were joined by numbers of the miners.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 5th. There is some excitement with regard to a bar one mile above us.  Captain W. and myself have spent the day there, and have made $537 each.  The lump of gold found at Sonora, and which, it was said, weighs seventy pounds, weighs only twenty-two pounds.  The miner through whom I received my information had a claim next to the one in which this lump was found.  It lay within two inches of the very spot where he was at work.  One blow of his pick would have given him possession of it.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 6th. We have to-day made 75 cents each.</P>
090.sgm:<P>An interesting instance of success happened recently in a gulch upon the Stanislaus in our vicinity.  Two young men, on their way to the mines, heard of this gulch, and concluded to commence their mining at that place; but, when they arrived there, they found the whole ground, considered favorable, occupied.  Not knowing what to do or where to go, they made their first essay in a small ravine, across which a log was thrown for the convenience of the crowd constantly passing.  In this ravine, and by the side of that log, they dug their hole.  They came to a crevice in the rock, and saw opened before them a sight which makes the miner's heart glad--pounds of pure virgin gold, lying in lumps and scales, but awaiting their slightest effort to transfer it to their own pockets.</P>
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090.sgm:<P>Feb. 7th. This forenoon my share was 25 cents.  In the afternoon visited Yorktown.  The diggings here are at a distance from any stream, upon the plain; but it is probable the stream once ran over the ground where the gold is now found.  Before the gold can be taken out, excavations must be made, from twelve to twenty feet in depth.  One cup showed about eight ounces of beautiful gold taken out in five hours; but it must be remembered that three men had been hard at work "clearing off" for seven days, during which time no gold had been made.  This work is so severe and exposing that many at Yorktown are sick with rheumatism.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 8th. We divide to-day 12 cents to each man.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The party previously mentioned, who went out in pursuit of the Indians, returned late last night, having with them the scalp of one Indian, which they had taken after decoying him into ambush.  They had mutilated the body, and then dragged it about with ropes, made fast to the pummel of the saddle.  They rode through the settlement, almost too drunk to keep their seats, firing their guns and pistols, while from their mouths issued volleys of shrieks and imprecations.  It must be mentioned, in justice to several who started with this party, that, becoming disgusted with the proceedings of their companions, they left them, and consequently must not share in the disgrace of these transactions.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 9th. We visited a wild mountain ravine, and made $410 each to-day.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 11th, Monday.  In the same place, we have made to each $562.</P>
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090.sgm:<P>Feb. 12th. Have made 15 cents.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 13th. I must place a cipher against all our labors to-day.  How expressive the miner's phrase, "Worked out!"  Others may go after him and make pounds of gold; but, do what he can, labor as he may, become discouraged and leave, then return again and again, for him it is " <HI REND="italics">worked out</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 14th, Mormon Gulch.  The rainy season seems to have passed.  To-day, in company with several companions, who purpose trying the ravine and dry diggings with me, came to this place.  This is a settlement about four miles from Curtis's.  We found considerable excitement existing at Woods's as we came through.  A miner, who was well known and esteemed, was found near that settlement murdered.  He started yesterday, with considerable gold, intending to establish himself in some business in Stockton.  His life was taken for his money.</P>
090.sgm:<P>A quartz mountain near Woods's, rising abruptly from the valley, and showing its glittering white crest at its summit, drew our attention.  Some experiments have been made here to obtain gold from the rock, but thus far without success.</P>
090.sgm:<P>All the winter encampments are breaking up.  The miners are on the move.  The log and stone houses, and sometimes the tents, are deserted.  Within a short distance, we saw over three hundred pack-mules, moving about in every direction.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 18th. Have spent the time since my last date in collecting the statistics of winter mining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Feb. 20th. Our first day's labor has given to each of us 45 cents.  We have worked in a loose, talcose slate, on the edges of the stream.  The gold is here coarser than in the rivers.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 21st. Have to-day made $1 each.  Finding a place which seemed favorable, lying upon the bed of the stream, we began to dig down and throw off the top soil.  We were soon interrupted by some persons, who said we could not work there, as they claimed it.  We inquired why they had not left their pick or spade there, according to the custom.  They replied that all the miners there were bound to stand by each other in maintaining their claims, which were known to each other.  We find that most of the ground is held in this way, without being marked off or designated.  The present alcalde, it is said, holds thirty of these claims.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 22d. Two of the company went over to the Stanislaus to prospect.  In the place of gold, they brought back with them a bouquet of wild flowers, which would have graced the centre-table of any parlor.  Our day's labor gave $1 12 to each.  We have been ejected from two claims to-day, after working some time upon them.  It seems that comparatively a few persons have undertaken to monopolize most of the gold soil in the gulch.  They have driven off a large number of French miners from what is called "French Bar," and have likewise taken possession of that.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 23d. We have to-day divided our forces Two of us commenced sinking a hole upon French Bar, while the others went to a small stream <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Feb. 25th. Those from the mountain have brought home $5 60 to each.  We have been delayed in our work in the valley by the caving in of the dirt upon us, owing to the rain.  At last we were compelled to abandon it for the present.</P>
090.sgm:<P>During the last night we had a violent snow-storm, which broke down our tent over our heads.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 26th. We commenced working upon another claim, but were again driven from it.  Appealed to the alcalde, who decided against us, but at the same time pointed to another place, farther from the stream, where he advised us to work.  We had spent two hours in digging here, when two miners laid claim to the ground, and soon brought the alcalde, who said it was a misunderstanding, and that he had intended to give us another place, upon which he then stood.  There was then no doubt, and we worked all the afternoon upon that place.  From the mountain we received $1 87 each.  To our joy, we have found a plant which makes an excellent salad.  It grows abundantly about us.  We have lived so long without vegetables that this is a luxury.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Feb. 27th. It has been a cold day, with occasional dashes of snow.  On reaching our claim in the valley, we found a miner in possession.  On appealing to the alcalde, who had so decidedly given us the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>Feb. 28th. We had barely reached our place of labor this morning, upon the mountain, when it came on to rain so violently as to drive us home.  We have spent the day in our tent, reading, writing, cooking, and sleeping.</P>
090.sgm:<P>March 4th, Monday evening.  We have been kept from work for several days by the rain.  Improved the time in prospecting upon the Stanislaus.  Heard of a ravine near the Green Springs where much gold has been found.  In the fall, when I was at Mr. Islip's, I met an eccentric man named Texas Jack.  He told me that, early in spring previous, while passing to the Stanislaus mines by a nearer path across the mountains, he had prospected in a ravine, and from one pan full of dirt had taken nearly a pound of gold.  I took the direction to the place, but, having learned not to be led by such wonderful stories, I never visited the spot.  Some miners, a few weeks since, happened upon this very place, and, before their secret was discovered, had made $8000.  Several others had done well there.</P>
090.sgm:<P>March 5th. We have all worked together upon the mountain to-day.  During the forenoon the vein ran out, and was nowhere to be found again.  We made many trials, but without success.  Made $2 06 each.</P>
090.sgm:<P>March 6th. We worked in a ravine where a few rich deposits have been found.  One of our number, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>March 7th. We were driven in by the rain this afternoon, after having made $1 25 each.</P>
090.sgm:<P>March 16th, Saturday.  Since my last date, more than a week since, we have dug to the bottom of our claim, though it caved in several times upon us.  We were so deep in the ground that we could not throw out the dirt, and were compelled to throw it up upon a platform, and then from the hole.  After digging down eighteen feet, we were troubled with water, which came in upon us so fast as to require one to be kept bailing much of the time.  At last we reached the bottom, washed the gold-dirt carefully, and, as the result of a week's labor for four of us, we shared the sum of $1 87.  We have had severe and continued rains.  Every thing is completely drenched.  Our clothes, our blankets, our provisions, are all wet and moldy.  Our fire is extinguished.  The water stands in puddles under the pine boughs beneath our blankets.  We were compelled to cut small drains from the middle of the tent to the large drain which surrounds it, and throw away the wet boughs, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>March 17th, Sunday. It was a beautiful morning.  The sun shone out clear and bright.  We hung out our clothes and blankets to dry.  The birds sang their sweetest notes.  All things seemed to be filled with grateful love to the Creator and Preserver of all.  Surely our hearts should not be less disposed to devout praise and adoration.  It was pleasant to follow in the services of worship, as we thought it was being conducted at home, and to make a sanctuary of our own hearts.  By allowing a difference of about three hours between the time at home and here, we could enjoy this pleasure, and, at the same time with friends so far from us, be engaged in the duties of worship.  These were the meetings of the heart--the reunions of faith; and they strengthened us, and led us to trust more sincerely in the good promises of our Father.</P>
090.sgm:<P>March 18th. Formed, to-day, a company for trading purposes.  Three of us gave each $100.  With this $300, one of our number has gone down to Stockton to purchase goods.  The rest of us went over, this morning, to the Stanislaus, to prospect.  During the ramble, I had collected twenty-nine varieties of flowers, some of them most beautiful.</P>
090.sgm:<P>April 1st. During the remainder of the month, and in the absence of our companion at Stockton, we made but $4 28 each.  The weather became moderate, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>There is a company here from York county, Pennsylvania, numbering fourteen strong, hard-working men.  They have made but $50 the last four weeks, or an average of 14 cents a day to each one.  During this time we have been exposed, every or every other day, to severe rains or snows, the ice being sometimes half an inch thick.  Crowds of miners still flock in here, attracted by the fabulous reports of the richness of the mines.  Some have done well--a few very well--while the miners generally have not made enough to support them.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Our trading operation did not amount to any thing.  The expenses of traveling, transportation of goods, time, &amp;c., ate up the profits.  I have to-day received a letter from some friends and traveling companions from Philadelphia, inviting me to visit them with reference to some mining operations for the summer.  They are living at Jacksonville, on the Tuolumne River, some miles distant from us.</P>
090.sgm:<P>April 2d. To-day have walked over to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:Jacksonville, where I was greeted with a cordial welcome.  This is quite a settlement.  There are some comfortable houses here.  As in every other settlement, the houses are of every possible variety, according to the taste or means of the miner.  Most of these, even in winter, are tents.  Some throw up logs a few feet high, filling up with clay between the logs.  The tent is then stretched above, forming a roof.  When a large company are to be accommodated with room, or a trading depo&circ;t is to be erected, a large frame is made, and canvas is spread over this.  Those who have more regard to their own comfort or health, erect log or stone houses, covering them with thatch or shingles.  I have seen some very good houses at Aqua Frio made and roofed with slate.  Some comfortable wigwams are made of pine boughs thrown up in a conical form, and are quite dry.  Many only spread a piece of canvas, or a blanket, over some stakes above them, while not a few make holes in the ground, where they burrow like foxes.  The covers of these sometimes extend above ground, and are roofed with a plaster of clay, looking like so many tombs.  The Mexicans and Chilinos put up rude frames, which they cover with hides.  In two cases I have seen a kind of basket, looking like a large nest, made fast among the branches, high up in the trees.  These may have been used by the Californians to guard against wild beasts.  The huts of the Indians are of various kinds, always rude in their construction.  They are similar to the wigwams of the wild Indians found in the Western States.  There is one house, however, which deserves a passing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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090.sgm:notice.  It is named <HI REND="italics">Tamascal</HI>
090.sgm:<P>We have spent much of the night in conversing on our plans, and I have determined to remove to this place.  My friend, Mr. A., invites me to share with him his tent.  He offers also to accompany me to Mormon Gulch to-morrow for my provisions, &amp;c.</P>
090.sgm:<P>April 4th. Yesterday we walked over to the Gulch, where I made my few arrangements, received from my companions there the exact amount which I had deposited with them for trading purposes, and, having taken leave this morning, we returned, bringing sixty pounds between us, to Jacksonville.</P>
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090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>SOUTHERN MINES CONTINUED.</P>
090.sgm:<P>BULES OF AN ENCAMPMENT--HART'S BAR COMPANY--ARTICLES OF AGREEMENT--CANAL--AQUEDUCT--RESULTS OF MINING.</P>
090.sgm:<P>APRIL 5th. Having arranged all our matters, also inclosed and dug up a spot for a garden, and planted potatoes, turnip, cabbage, and other seed, we started this afternoon, under the direction of Colonel M., upon a scientific prospecting tour.  This gentleman has spent his life in the gold mines of Georgia, and possesses great experience and skill in the business of mining.  We spent some hours upon the Kanacca Creek, making one excavation after another, down to the rocks, the colonel panning and testing each.  We had no success.  The colonel could show a few specks of fine gold in every pan, but, like all old miners, threw it out as not worth preserving.  Finding our efforts fruitless, we climbed the sides of a high mountain, hanging over Jacksonville, to obtain a view of the country.  There was not much in the view to please, but we soon found ourselves enjoying a most exciting sport.  It was that of rolling down large stones from the summit over the precipitous sides of the mountain, and watching them as they rushed, leaped, bounded, crashing and tearing far away into the valley.</P>
090.sgm:<P>It is yet too early to do much in the river diggings, except in the making of canals, and other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:preparations for working the channel when the rivers are low.  A large company have been thus engaged at this place for six months.  Their canal is a stupendous work for this country, and is intended to drain more than a mile of the river.  They expect to make at least $10,000 for each member.  Their shares are sold at $1200.  They are governed by strict regulations, and their officers consist of a president--a most worthy, efficient man--a vice-president, a secretary, a treasurer, and a board of directors.  They have some of America's best and most esteemed citizens.  One of their number is B., of New England, an original, and always full of fun.  His wit and his anecdotes do much to keep up the spirits of his companions.  With his good humor, he possesses also a good heart.  One very warm day I passed the canal where they had been at work, but were resting a short time under the shade of a tree.  As they were rising to resume their spades and picks, B. said, "Keep your seats, gentlemen!"  Then he continued, evidently under the impression that his own quiet lounge was at an end unless he could contrive to interest his listeners by spinning one of his yarns, "That reminds me," said he, "of an old lady in our town, who was very self-conceited, and withal somewhat deaf.  One Sunday she came to church very late.  As she entered, the congregation, which was a crowded one, were rising for prayer.  Thinking that the stir was on her account, and that all were rising to offer her a seat, she spoke out, loud enough to be heard half way up the aisle, `Keep you seats, gentlemen! keep your seats! don't rise for me!'  So, gentlemen," he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>As the bars upon our rivers are being occupied by such communities, it may not be uninteresting to know by what rules and regulations such communities are governed.  Those here presented were drawn up by experienced lawyers, and men of wise heads and good hearts, and may serve as illustrating the mode of government common among the miners.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The following laws and regulations for the internal government of the encampment of Jacksonville were passed at a meeting held in the town for that purpose, in front of Colonel Jackson's store, on the 20th of January, 1850:</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE I.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The officers of this district shall consist of an alcalde and sheriff, to be elected in the usual manner by the people, and continue in office at the pleasure of the electors.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE II.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In case of the absence or disability of the sheriff, the alcalde shall have power to appoint a deputy.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE III.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Civil cases may be tried by the alcalde, if the parties desire it; otherwise they shall be tried by a jury.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE IV.</P>
090.sgm:<P>All criminal cases shall be tried by a jury of eight American citizens, unless the accused should desire a jury of twelve persons, who shall be regularly summoned by the sheriff, and sworn by the alcalde, and shall try the case according to the evidence.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE V.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In the administration of law, both civil and criminal, the rule of practice shall conform, as near as possible, to that of the United States, but the forms and customs of no particular state shall be required or adopted.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VI.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Each individual locating a lot for the purpose of mining, shall be entitled to twelve feet of ground in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VII.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In cases where lots are located according to Article VI., and the parties holding them are prevented by the water from working the same, they may be represented by a pick, shovel, or bar, until in a condition to be worked; but should the tool or tools aforesaid be stolen or removed, it shall not dispossess those who located it, provided he or they can prove that they were left as required; and said location shall not remain unworked longer than one week, if in condition to be worked, otherwise it shall be considered as abandoned by those who located it (except in cases of sickness).</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VIII.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No man or party of men shall be permitted to hold two locations, in a condition to be worked, at the same time.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE IX.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No party shall be permitted to throw dirt, stones, or other obstructions upon located ground adjoining them.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE X.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Should a company of men desire to turn the course of a river or stream for the purpose of mining, they may do so (provided it does not interfere with those working below them), and hold and work all the ground so drained; but lots located within said ground shall be permitted to be worked by their owners, so far as they could have been worked without the turning of the river or stream; and this shall not be construed to affect the rights and privileges heretofore guarantied, or prevent redress by suit at law.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XI.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No person coming direct from a foreign country shall be permitted to locate or work any lot within the jurisdiction of this encampment.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XII.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Any person who shall steal a mule, or other animal of draught or burden, or shall enter a tent or dwelling, and steal therefrom gold-dust, money, provisions, goods, or other articles, amounting in value to one hundred dollars or over, shall, on conviction thereof, be considered guilty of felony, and suffer death by hanging.  Any aider or abettor therein shall be punished in like manner.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XIII.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Should any person willfully, maliciously, and premeditatedly take the life of another, on conviction of the murder, he shall suffer death by hanging.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XIV.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Any person convicted of stealing tools, clothing, or other articles, of less value than one hundred dollars, shall be punished and disgraced by having his head and eye-brows close shaved, and shall leave the encampment within twenty-four hours.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XV.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The fee of the alcalde for issuing a writ or search-warrant, taking an attestation, giving a certificate, or any other instrument of writing, shall be five dollars; for each witness he may swear, two dollars; and one ounce of gold-dust for each and every case tried before him.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The fee of the sheriff in each case shall be one ounce of gold-dust, and a like sum for each succeeding day employed in the same case.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The fee of the jury shall be to each juror half an ounce in each case.</P>
090.sgm:<P>A witness shall be entitled to four dollars in each case.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XVI.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Whenever a criminal convict is unable to pay the costs of the case, the alcalde, sheriff, jurors, and witnesses shall render their services free of remuneration.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XVII.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In case of the death of a resident of this encampment, the alcalde shall take charge of his effects, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XVIII.</P>
090.sgm:<P>All former acts and laws are hereby repealed, and made null and void, except where they conflict with claims guarantied under said laws.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ABNER PITTS, JR., SEC'Y.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Jacksonville, Jan</HI>
090.sgm:<P>April 15th. Many rumors reached us respecting certain rich diggings ten miles distant, among the mountains.  They are named Savage's diggings, and lie upon or near the Rattlesnake Creek.  Large numbers of miners have been for some time going in that direction, while multitudes, who have been but to be disappointed, are returning.  One of our friends, the president of the Jacksonville company, left for this place, promising to send us back information as to his success.  We were therefore much gratified, the next day, to receive intelligence of the most encouraging character, accompanied by a message for us to hasten up as soon as possible.  We made our arrangements very hastily--stewed venison, baked several loaves of bread, and made some pies of the red berry called <HI REND="italics">manzanita</HI>
090.sgm:, which has some resemblance to the cherry.  It grows upon a shrub ten feet high, the bark of which is smooth, and of bright orange color.  On the 11th instant we started for Savage's diggings, in our way clambering up one of the steepest mountains I have ever seen.  After a very fatiguing walk, we reached the ground by the middle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Our stay upon the mountain was brief.  There was so little encouragement that it was considered best to retrace our steps.  Lame, hungry, and tired, we arrived the next night at our encampment near Jacksonville.</P>
090.sgm:<P>During the following week we worked upon the banks of the river, with but small success.  One day we made $2 50 each, and the other days we made nothing.</P>
090.sgm:<P>May 1st. Since my last date, we have not made enough to buy us our provisions.  Much of the time, my companions being engaged upon the canal, I labored by myself.  One day I made $6; and then, for a week, did not average 6 cents a day: so uncertain is the employment of mining.  Cases are very frequent of persons making $100 in a day, and sometimes in a single hour, and the whole week following making nothing.  I heard of a case which illustrates this point.  A young man of rather indolent habits, and without the perseverance and application which, it would be supposed, are necessary to insure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>May 15th. During the three days immediately following my last date, I made, while working by myself, $17.  Was invited to join a few miners working near me, who intend to organize a company for the purpose of mining at Hart's Bar--a place two miles below Jacksonville-when the river shall be low enough to be worked.  All of these are Southern gentlemen.  One of them, a nephew of Commodore Turner, U.S.N., lost a fortune by a sudden decline in the price of cotton, and, with the hope of retrieving his condition, came to California.  He has messing with him two young friends, one from Annapolis, Maryland, the other from Mobile, Alabama.  There is also in the company a person who has spent eight years in the gold mines of Georgia, and possessing great skill in tracing up a vein of gold.  I was not long in deciding to connect myself with them, and the next day we labored together.</P>
090.sgm:<P>One day last week, as I was walking down from Jacksonville, where I had been to purchase provisions, I saw a number of men dragging some heavy object to the edge of a hill hanging over me.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:Presently they pushed it over the brow, and it came tumbling, like a bag of wool, over and over, down the side of the mountain.  It was a grisly bear, which had just been killed, and which weighed six hundred pounds.  As the river was too high to allow crossing that evening to my camp, I accepted an invitation from the miner who had killed the bear to be his guest for the night.  We feasted upon the flesh, which was tender and sweet.  During the following week we had no success in gold-digging, the river being too high.  It was also too early to commence working upon our canal; but on May 10th we organized into a company, put up stakes with flags, designating our claim, and made advertisement of the same in Jacksonville, leaving a certified copy with the alcalde.  Then we adjourned, to meet for work on the 4th of July, in the mean time having a common purse, and sharing mutually in the profits of the whole till that time.  A part of the company went up to the Rattlesnake Creek, prospecting.  At this time an association--named the Adelphi Mining Association--was formed, chiefly of miners from Jacksonville, numbering twenty-nine persons.  Their object was to drain a portion of the channel of Woods's Creek, in which was a deep hole, nearly the width of the creek, and twenty yards in length.  The place is two miles above the junction of the creek with the Tuolumne.  Much gold had been found all along the banks, encouraging the belief that, could we drain the stream and work the bed of it, it would "pay well."  The company was a very mixed one.  There were the good and the bad, the serious and the gay.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>June 1st. The Adelphi Company commenced their labors on the 16th ult.  We were early at work, and toiled cheerfully on, sustained by the hope that we were about to meet with success.  I hardly dared to give myself up to the bright, golden anticipations of my companions; and still they seemed well founded and reasonable.  The gold had been traced, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:numerous rich layers and veins, down to the very edges of the deep hole in the channel.  Doubtless, then, as it would naturally sink down, and settle at the lowest point, washed in by every freshet, if that point could be reached, we should find a rich deposit.  A canal must be made so deep as to drain the bottom of this hole, and then a dam must turn the water around the hole, through a new channel.  The canal was cut through solid slate.  The work was very heavy, requiring the largest bars and picks.  We worked all the time in the water.  After nine days' labor, we at length completed the canal, which is about one hundred feet in length, four in width, and five in depth.  The only fear was lest it should not effectually drain the hole, without which all our labor was lost.  We made the dam on the tenth day, and anxiously awaited the result.  Fears were expressed, but we left at night, to meet in the morning, by which time the water would have been reduced to its level.  In the morning we were there, and found, after all we could do, that there were three feet of water in the hole we wished to drain.  Nothing but steam forcing-pumps would have enabled us to prosecute the work, and we silently and sadly abandoned it.  I went up to my tent, and was there alone.  All my efforts had failed.  I was already deeply in debt for my provisions.  Had I any prospect of success?  Could I hope even to make enough to enable me to return to my family?  The future seemed dark to me.  I was desolate and disheartened.  In the midst of my sadness and gloom, there came a whisper!  A voice dear to me had spoken it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:before in my sorrow; memory now brought back the same voice, whispering to me,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Fear not, but trust in Providence!"<LB></HI>
090.sgm:<P>That voice had never failed to cheer and comfort me, and it failed not now.  That kind Providence had ever blessed me, and I could trust on, and hope ever!</P>
090.sgm:<P>The gold-digger may not stand still.  No stone must be left unturned--the treasure may lie beneath the next.  This is the miner's work: he must spend his efforts and his years in rolling over stones, even though his heart is sick with hope deferred--it may be under the next.</P>
090.sgm:<P>I had cooked my dinner with my breakfast--some venison and bread, with a dish of beans and a dipper of coffee.  Going to take my dinner, I found the whole gone--eaten clean and the coffee drank, probably by some miner more hungry than myself.  I acknowledged myself indebtedto some one, as, by taking my thoughts from myself, and giving me employment, he did me a kindness.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The next day I came up into the mountains to join my companions at Rattlesnake Creek.  It was late at night when I reached their camp, which was a wild spot beneath some trees.  A camp-fire, dimly burning, lighted me to the place.  The pure mountain air and my long mountain ramble gave me a good appetite, for which the kindness of my friends provided most amply.  Our prospect of success here is good.  Some miners have done very well.  We have been engaged for a few days in turning the water of the creek, that we may work in the channel.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Our prospects so far are not favorable.  Four of us were at work, when a pretty vein of gold was discovered, passing down the channel and into the bank.  We have to-day made $18 25 each.</P>
090.sgm:<P>June 2d. The vein has run up into the bank, and all our efforts to find it are in vain.  This wild mountain creek is fast filling up with miners.  Some considerable sums have been taken out.  Along the whole length of the creek are closely scattered groups of Mexicans, Chilinos, Indians, Europeans, Americans.  At the head of the creek, upon an extensive plain, several large lumps of gold have been found, and a company has been organized to drain and work the lower part of the plain.</P>
090.sgm:<P>June 5th. We are still at work at the old place--still hoping somewhere to find the lost vein.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>June 8th. For several days the Indians have kept us in a state of alarm.  All the white men upon the creek were summoned to meet at a log house, which they fortified, to guard against a night attack.  It was said that fifty Indian warriors from the Mercedes were on the way to attack us.  During the next day the excitement was increased by the rumor that the attack was to take place during that night.  Nearly all left for the lower settlements, or assembled at the log house.  We remained quietly at our camp, only taking the precaution to extinguish ourcampfires.</P>
090.sgm:<P>June 9th. The Indians have to-day manifested their desire of peace by returning to the settlement, digging up and burning, according to their custom, the bodies of their chief and the other Indians who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>At Sullivan's Camp, a few miles from us, a Dutchman followed a vein of gold down to a large rock, which continually became richer as he progressed.  Aided by some friends, he succeeded in removing the rock, and in two hours' time took out forty pounds of the precious ore.</P>
090.sgm:<P>June 21st. Since my last date we have not made enough to defray our expenses, but to day have added to the treasury $32.</P>
090.sgm:<P>June 22d.  Company made 50.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"  23d.  Sunday.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"  24th.  Company made 25.</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 25th."  " 83.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"26th "  "98.</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 27th."  " 68.</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 28th."  " 84.</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 29th."  " 7.</P>
090.sgm:<P>In eight days $447.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Dividend to each of five members, $89 40; average per day to each one, $11 17.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The Sabbath is generally observed as a day of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>July 29th. We continued at Rattlesnake Creek till the 3d of July, but without much success.  On that day we came down from the high mountains, to attend the meeting of the Hart's Bar Company on the 4th.  On our way down, an old Californian showed us the valuable medicinal plants "Buena herba" and "Canchalagua."  We found much alarm prevailing at Jacksonville on account of the many murders recently committed in the vecinity.  A nightly patrol has been kept up.  The river was very high.  Several have been drowned in attempting to cross.  On the morning of the 4th we endeavored to cross at the ferry.  There were nine persons in a boat of the ordinary size.  Before putting out into the current, which runs very rapidly by, we passed by a cluster of young trees and bushes in the water.  One of the passengers unguardedly caught at one of the bushes, which caused the boat immediately to sway about and dip water.  It was instantly half full, and five of the passengers had jumped out, and were clinging to the bushes.  The others of us made our way as soon as possible <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>On that day dined with my kind friend A. from Philadelphia, on the bank of the river, near Hawkinsville--a sort of pic-nic, with "porter for two."  While in the village, I was introduced to a miner from Virginia, whose brief history while at the mines is interesting.  On his arrival at San Francisco, about a year previous, he purchased a good supply of provisions, which he packed upon mules, and with a muleteer he started for Deer Creek.  Not meeting with any person to direct him, he crossed the creek, not knowing that it was such.  Going on for some distance, he came suddenly, and to his great alarm, to a settlement of Indians, who, however, through his Mexican muleteer, expressed friendship and a desire to trade.  He was induced to pitch his tent, and remain with them.  The business proved so profitable, that he returned to Stockton for a larger supply.  In a short time he had many Indians working for him, and in a few weeks was able to send home $17,000, retaining $3000 for his future operations.  Since that time he has had no success; had sunk the fund he had retained, and was now working as a hired laborer for the means to take him to his family.</P>
090.sgm:<P>On our way back we met the mail agent, who had letters for me.  He declines taking gold-dust to San Francisco, on account of the danger.  Remarked that he traveled feeling that he traveled feeling that he might be shot at any moment, and that the assassin might be concealed behind the next bush.  Twelve murders have been committed within a week in and near Sonora.  There is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The river being yet too high to allow us to commence our work upon Hart's Bar, we postponed our meeting for a week, and returned to the mountains, hoping to find another vein of gold; but our efforts were not rewarded.</P>
090.sgm:<P>On the 9th instant we came down to Hart's Bar to attend a company meeting; but the river being still too high for profitable labor, we returned again to the mountains, where, and at Woods's Creek, we have worked till this time, not averaging 50 cents a day.</P>
090.sgm:<P>To-day we have come down to Hart's Bar, to make all necessary arrangements--lay in our provisions, purchase mining tools, pitch our tents, erect brush arbors--before we begin the work.  I have selected a spot for my arbor-home, a little above the bar, on a gentle rise, and at a short distance from the encampment of my companions, which consists of a picturesque group of tents and arbors on the bar below.  Just behind me the mountain ascends abrupt and steep.  I am making my arbor beneath a large pine, the only tree upon the bar.  It is called the "medicine-tree," because its pitch is used as a balsam for all burns and bruises.  This tree forms one of the supporters of my arbor.  Driving into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>July 30th. We have to-day commenced our labors.  So much has been said of the mining operations upon the rivers, especially upon the Tuolumne, which is believed to be very rich, that I am led, for the information of my readers, to go more into detail in describing this, the closing portion of my mining life.  The gold is often found, in rich deposits, in the channels of these rivers.  To be obtained, the river must first be turned by dam and canal.  As this is an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The Hart's Bar Draining and Mining Company was organized in May.  The following Articles of Agreement were adopted in July, at a meeting of the company, when twenty-one entered their names as members, and elected their officers.  It should be remarked that mining associations enjoy all the privileges and immunities of corporate bodies; their just claims and rights are sacredly regarded; and any violence done to these rights would be visited by the vengeance of all the miners for miles around.  No code of laws or staff of police could more fully establish a miner in the possession of his ten feet square.  No well-drawn writing, from the royal charter down to the simple deed of conveyance, could be a surer guarantee.  He would not be obliged to wait a tedious process at law, or pay his last dollar for a bill of ejectment.  The work of restitution and retribution at the mines is speedy, summary, and effective.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLES OF AGREEMENT OF THE HART'S BAR DRAINING AND MINING COMPANY.</P>
090.sgm:<P>PREAMBLE.</P>
090.sgm:<P>We, the undersigned, having associated ourselves together for the purpose of draining and mining that part of the Tuolumne River known as Hart's Bar, and to work out the portion of the bed of the river <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE I.</P>
090.sgm:<P>This company shall be known by the name of The Hart's Bar Draining and Mining Company.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE II.</P>
090.sgm:<P>This company shall not number over twenty-five members.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE III.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The officers of this company shall be a president, a secretary--who shall likewise perform the duties of treasurer--and four directors, which shall be elected from its own body, in such manner as they may see fit, a majority constituting an election; and the officers so elected shall continue in office during the pleasure of the company.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE IV.</P>
090.sgm:<P>It shall be the duty of the president to call all meetings of the company, and to preside at them.  He shall put to vote all motions duly made, and, in all cases of a tie in voting, he shall give the casting vote.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE V.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The duties of the president shall devolve on the chief director in all cases of his absence or disability to serve.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VI.</P>
090.sgm:<P>It shall be the duty of the secretary and treasurer to keep minutes of the proceedings of the company, and to take charge of all books and papers belonging to the office.  He shall keep an accurate account of the time, as given him by the directors, and shall report to the company each Saturday evening, immediately after adjourning the work of the day.  It shall likewise be his duty to take charge of all moneys belonging to the company, and to pay such demands upon the same as may come to him approved by the company and signed by the president.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VII.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The board of directors shall discharge the duties of engineers.  Each director shall keep an accurate account of the time employed by each man under his charge, and shall report the same to the secretary every Friday evening.  They shall superintend and direct all operations of the company.  They shall divide the company into parties, each party to be headed by a director, who shall oversee their working, and take charge of the daily proceeds of the same, which he shall deliver to the treasurer every night, and take his receipt therefor.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VIII.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Of the proceeds arising from the operations of the company for the current week, ending on Friday, the treasurer shall make a report to the company on the next day, in the following manner:  The weekly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE IX.</P>
090.sgm:<P>All specimens of unusual beauty or value shall be sold at auction, and the proceeds put in the treasury.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE X.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The working time of the company shall be from seven to twelve o'clock A.M., and from half past one to half past five o'clock P.M.; and each member shall be charged at the rate of $3 per hour for the time he shall lose, to be paid at or before the regular meeting next after the one on which it is reported.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XI.</P>
090.sgm:<P>All amendments and additions to these Articles of Agreement shall be decided upon by a two thirds vote.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XII.</P>
090.sgm:<P>All applications for membership in this company shall be determined by votes with black and white pebbles; and two black pebbles shall exclude from membership.</P>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XIII.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Any member wishing to sell his share, the company shall have the first right of purchase; which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>ARTICLE XIV.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No member of this company shall be allowed to hold two claims on the river, capable of being worked, at the same time.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The following officers were elected:  T. P. Hotchkiss, president; D. B. Woods, secretary and treasurer; William Marlatt, chief director; R. E. Thompson, second director; F. Ridout, third director.</P>
090.sgm:<P>I have received into my arbor, as a camp-mate, my valued friend M.  He is a young sailor--a man with a brave heart in danger, but with a kind heart to those he loves--rough or gentle, like the ocean he has navigated.  He has to-day made a bed-frame, nailing some bags on the bottom for sacking; also, some camp-stools, while the company's carpenter has made me a table; so that our mining home presents an unusual air of comfort.  We have sent to Stockton for a supply of provisions.  M. is a first-rate cook, and many of the dishes he can furnish would be relished in any place where there are good appetites.  The living at the mines is much better than it has been.  We have more vegetables, better flour, and a greater variety of provisions generally.  Provisions are also cheaper than they have been at any time previous.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The work before us is truly an arduous one, made doubly so by the limited means we have of prosecuting it.  The clay for the construction of our canal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Sept. 24th, 1851. We prosecuted both parts of our work at the same time.  A part were employed in carrying the clay to the canal.  An account was kept one day, and it was ascertained that each barrow was carried, during the day, fourteen miles.  Since my last date I have carried such a barrow four hundred and twenty miles.  The clay was put in large heaps, where we could easily obtain it when it should be wanted in the making of the canal.  This was a most arduous undertaking.  Sometimes it must pass through a solid ledge of hard asbestos rock, and then through deep holes in the river, where it has washed into the banks.  In such a case, a heavy wall, filled with clay, must be made.  When completed, the canal was six hundred and thirty-eight feet in length, and sixteen in width.  Making the aqueduct to convey the water from the canal, which passed through Paine's Bar, above us, was the most difficult task.  The logs, which were cut upon the mountain, were rolled to the pits, and then sawed by hand.  Piers were constructed by making crates of logs, which were firmly pinned together, then sunk in their places <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:by being filled with large stones.  Another large pier was made by rolling and carrying stones into the river a distance of thirty feet.  The sleepers of the aqueduct were laid upon this and the laden crates.  When it was finished, it was a handsome piece of workmanship, of which we were justly proud.  It was one hundred and two feet in length, and twelve wide.  This kind of labor--yielding no remuneration, only being preparatory to the more exciting, though laborious process of gold-digging--was prosecuted from July the 30th to this date, Sept. 24th.  We were awakened at dawn by the second director, who came out before his tent, and sang, in a loud, clear voice, "Up in the morning early, boys!"  That song, which often brought me out of my dreams, to this day I carry back into my dreams.  After a short time allowed for taking breakfast, the roll was called, and we went to our daily labor.  And oh! when night came again, how sweet, after a bath in the river, was "the rest of the laboring man!"  On the 20th of September the pleasure was ours of seeing the whole channel of the river opposite our bar laid bare for our operations.  It was <HI REND="italics">ours</HI>
090.sgm:, after contending with difficulties, privations, and hardships innumerable, and of no ordinary kind, and which have deprived of health many of our company.  It was all <HI REND="italics">ours</HI>
090.sgm:, with the joyous anticipation of soon receiving the reward of our efforts, and returning home with at least a competence.  About two weeks since--it was the 6th instant--we were alarmed by a considerable rise of the river.  While at breakfast upon that day, the water of the river became suddenly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The shares of the company immediately advanced several hundred dollars.  One share was sold for $1200, while $2500 was refused for another.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Two days since we commenced making a ditch under the wall of the canal, to carry off the water which leaked through its embankments.  Two cradles were set, and the dirt from the bed of the ditch was washed through, and in three hours there was deposited in the treasury $176.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Yesterday we continued to work upon the ditch, adding two more cradles, and during the day made $415 75.  At midnight, and in the rain, we were called out to repair the walls of the canal, and stop several leaks.  The river was very high, and slowly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>This morning--Sept. 24th--the water was rising in its might.  Notwithstanding our aqueduct and canal, the bed of the river was nearly full.  We hastened to remove all our mining implements.  Slowly, but surely, the freshet came, till the destruction of all our works seemed inevitable.</P>
090.sgm:<P>We thought not of hunger, though we had been laboring hard much of the night and all the morning.  About ten o'clock there was a pause of fearful suspense.  The rising seemed arrested--might it not be on the turn?  For a short time there was hope; the pendulum vibrated each moment between our hopes and our fears.  We hastened up the hill side--after all had been done which could be--to a spot commanding a view of the whole, to see our hopes or our fears realized.  We perceived at once that the existence of all our works depended upon the Paine's Bar dam above us.  Would that stand the torrent?  Should that maintain its position, we were safe; let that go, <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
090.sgm: would be swept away!  As we kept our eyes fixed upon this--it was a quarter of a mile above us--the black line of wall was suddenly broken, and the torrent poured through a small opening forced in the dam, and in a few seconds the river ran foaming over the entire length of the wall, which bowed and sank before the irresistible force.  Then and there was heard a sound new and strangely startling to me.  It was caused by large stones <HI REND="italics">rushing</HI>
090.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">grinding</HI>
090.sgm: under water, borne on by the tremendous power of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:the current.  It might be imagined that the thousand submerged chariots and cars of Pharaoh's host were driving impetuously over that river channel.  As soon as the dam above us gave way, the water rose with great rapidity--two, three, four, six, eight feet--till it poured over the top of the aqueduct.  Still it nobly stood, held in its place by the immense weight of the water which poured through it from the canal above.  It was indeed surprising to see a thing so light resisting that mad and mighty force.  It was but a moment!  Gently and gracefully it yielded, swayed forward, and moved away with the ease and rapidity of a thing of life.  Thus, in one moment, we saw the work of <HI REND="italics">one thousand and twenty-nine days</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Oct. 8th. From the time of the freshet to the 30th of Sept., the river was too high to permit us to commence our new operations.  On that day--Monday--the directors led the way, shuddering, and actually shrieking, from the sudden chill, into the cold stream.  A line was formed, extending out to the middle of the river, those at the end of the line working in four feet water, where the current was so strong that our feet would often be forced from under us, and we would be whirled away down the current, to scrabble on shore as we could.  To appreciate the difficulties of our arduous and dangerous task, and to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:understand the kind of work which was to be done, let my reader imagine himself standing by me, and looking at what is going on below us, while I describe the scene to him.  The whole force of the company, aided by some thirty Mexicans we have employed to work for us, is concentrated upon the wall which is to be the head of the dam.  This is to run from the shore out to the middle of the river, or about forty feet.  Two walls are thrown up parallel to each other, and about two feet apart.  The difficulty of this is almost inconceivable.  We must roll the stones and adjust them where there is a rapid current four feet in depth.  Sometimes a whole section of this will be swept off at once, and must be done all over again.  After the walls are completed, strong cloth is spread down against the lower wall, and over its whole surface.  The space is then filled up with small twigs, sand, and clay.  After the wall is carried thus to the middle of the river, it must turn, forming a right angle, and run down through the middle of the river, parallel to the shore, a distance of two hundred and fifty feet, till it passes over some falls, by which means the water is partially drained from a portion of the channel.  This portion so drained is then divided off into pens, which are surrounded by small walls, so made as to exclude the water, which is then bailed out, and all the space within the walls of the pens is thus worked.  The cradles are set just over the walls, on the outer side, and some six or eight of them are sometimes being rocked at the same time, supplied with dirt by the dozen or twenty miners in the pens.  It is a busy scene.  It will be seen that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>There are two servants, belonging to members of the company, at work with the rest, and right hard-working men they are.  One of them, who is from Mississippi, is as athletic and vigorous a man as I have ever seen.  If any work is to be done which requires great strength, he is called upon; and he always engages in it singing some merry song.  The other servant is an old man, named Allen, belonging to our president, who tells me he shall give him free papers when he leaves the country.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Direct your attention once again to the interesting tableau in the river below us.  Among the group of Mexicans and Americans--black, brown, and white--is one remarkable person.  He is a tall, stout man, having the appearance of one accustomed to command, and some of the severity of one who has commanded those who never dared dispute his authority.  He had been a boatman upon the Mississippi.  He was our chief director; and, though he ruled with unquestioned sway, he was light-hearted, jovial, and free.  He was known among us by the name of "Red," from the fact that, whenever there was any fighting to be done, or when he was "going upon a spree," he put on a red flannel shirt.  By our "Articles of Agreement," in the absence of the president, the duty of presiding over the meetings devolved upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:him, as chief director.  At a meeting which was called at the regular time of work, the president being absent, the chair was to be taken--speaking figuratively, for such a thing as a chair was unknown at the mines--bythis remarkable individual.  The thought that he was so far to submit his own opinion to the decision of others as to permit them an opportunity of expressing dissent even by their votes, did not seem to enter into his calculations.  The meeting had been called to decide whether or not we should work on that Saturday afternoon.  Under the circumstances, most were in favor of adjourning work till Monday morning.  What was the dismay of those who had anticipated no difficulty in carrying the question in the affirmative, and who came prepared to talk down or talk <HI REND="italics">out</HI>
090.sgm: all opposition, if they had to talk till night, when Red entered with the air of one who is for deeds, and not words.  He was strongly opposed to the proposed measure.  "Boys," he said, as he came by, spade in hand, as if on his way to labor, impatient of any delay, and waving all ceremony--"Boys, I say, go to work.  All who are in favor say  `Aye'" One emphatic  "Ay!" by himself, was the only response.  "Those who are opposed," he continued, at the same time starting on his way, "say nothing, and go to work!"  In five minutes every man was at his post, wondering how it had happened.  I was desirous, for one, to have the afternoon to myself, as I had promised to preach on the morrow, and wanted the time to arrange my thoughts.  As it was, I selected my subject, studied and arranged my plan, while at work in the canal.  Early the next day-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>This afternoon, our wall being completed, and two pens, twelve feet square, inclosed, we set our cradles, and commenced "rocking."  The books of the treasurer exhibit the following results to Nov. 9th, when river mining was generally suspended for the season:</P>
090.sgm:<P>Oct. 8th $50 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"9th 26 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"  10th. Work upon the wing-dam.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"11th 155 25</P>
090.sgm:<P>"12th 1,280 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"13th, Sunday 302 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 14th. Work upon the wing-dam.</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 15th. "    "    "   "    "</P>
090.sgm:<P>"16th. "    "    "   "    "</P>
090.sgm:<P>"17th 1,404 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"18th 4,198 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"19th 894 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"20th, Sunday.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"21st 1,449 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 22d 688 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 23d 1,102 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 24th 1,034 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"25th 701 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"26th 27 50</P>
090.sgm:<P>"27th, Sunday.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Carried over $13,310 75</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Brought over $13,310 75</P>
090.sgm:<P>Oct. 28th 179 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"29th. Work upon the wing-dam.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"  30th 6 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"31st. Work upon the wing-dam.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Nov. 1st 297 25</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 2d 437 25</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 3d, Sunday.</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 4th 949 10</P>
090.sgm:<P>" 5th 809 60</P>
090.sgm:<P>"6th 168 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"7th 547 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"8th 380 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>"9th 40 00</P>
090.sgm:<P>Total $17,123 95</P>
090.sgm:<P>Deduct company expenses, viz., implements, labor, and incidentals 3,528 05</P>
090.sgm:<P>Leaving in the treasury $13,595 90</P>
090.sgm:<P>Dividend to each of twenty-one members of the company, $647 42.  Average per day, from July 30th to Nov. 9th, 1850, $7 28.</P>
090.sgm:<P>A large amount of gold came into the treasury, the care of which was somewhat burdensome.  It puzzled me to know what to do with it.  There was no lock and key in the place.  My arbor was upon the hill, retired from the rest of the settlement.  There were many Mexicans and strangers constantly upon the bar, and it was dangerous to have a large amount of gold in possession.  As a means of security for myself, I changed my quarters every night; and to secure the gold, I tied the various packages into one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>It will be seen, by reference to the dates, that the company labored at mining on one Sabbath.  When it was decided, at a meeting on Saturday, the 12th of October, to work the next day, I was allowed to enter my protest, which still remains upon the records; and I was also excused from manual labor.  By noon of that Sunday, all had left work, and it was never even proposed again.</P>
090.sgm:<P>During the last weeks of our labors, we hired many Americans, and more than fifty Mexicans.  The heavy tax upon foreigners has driven them to seek employment from companies.  They may be hired at $4 and $6 a day.  These Mexicans, who speak imperfect Spanish, are generally very indolent, and must be closely watched.  Many times in the day, whatever may be the business, they will stop, take out a small, square piece of white paper, and putting upon it a small pinch of loose tobacco, roll it into a cigarito, and lighting it with a piece of punk or a match, smoke with apparent relish.  The women are as fond of their cigaritos as the men.</P>
090.sgm:<P>A few nights before I left the mines, I accepted an invitation from "Red" to accompany him on a night fishing expedition.  He carried in his hand a long and peculiarly pointed spear, with a spring barb, which opened as it entered the flesh of the fish, and prevented his escape.  Several others bore torches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>A remarkable instance of an attack made by a bear upon the inmates of a tent occurred lately near us.  He was no doubt attracted by the smell of the fresh meat which was being cooked.  Infuriated by the resistance which he met, he made a most violent attack upon his assailants, killing two men and one woman, who was cooking.  One of the men and the bear lay dead side by side.</P>
090.sgm:<P>A bird of very large size has frequently flown over us, soaring very high in the air, which we have supposed was the California eagle; but one, coming within the range of the rifle, was shot, and fell at our feet upon the bar.  It proves to be a species of the vulture, and measures, between the tips of its wings, eight feet and eleven inches.  The quill which I now have is of great size.</P>
090.sgm:<P>There was upon the bar a case of delirium tremens, that most fearful display of the Divine displeasure against intemperance.  The young man was from England--had been an officer in the British army.  Soon after he came to the mines, he gave himself up to intemperate habits.  He was suddenly attacked in the night, imagining himself pursued by horrible fiends, which came to torture him.  At midnight he came rushing into my tent, and almost knocked me out of my hammock as he crept under it, to conceal himself from his enemies.  He would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>There was much sickness upon the bar during the latter part of the season.  Much of this was the result of the fearful exposures to which we were subject.  The sickness at length assumed a malignant and dangerous form.  It commenced in a violent attack of diarrh&oelig;a, running into symptoms resembling the cholera, which was then fatally prevalent in the cities of California.  The first person attacked was a vigorous and strong German sailor.  Nothing could be learned of him or his friends--even his name was unknown to us.  We buried him deep in the sand, on the banks of the Tuolumne; and while the burial services were being performed, a crowd--not, however, of our own members--surrounded the gambling-table on the bar.  At this time there were three or four gambling companies with us, called into life by the short-lived success of our mining operations.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Poor Charlie! would it lessen the loneliness of your last resting-place to know that you "sleep your last sleep" by the side of the gifted and noble- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Whereas it has pleased Almighty God to take from among us a beloved friend and companion, therefore,</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
090.sgm:<P>DANIEL B. WOODS, Secretary.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Hart's Bar</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Several were dangerously ill at the time of Mr. Ridout's death, and, soon after, our worthy president was at once prostrated by a similar attack.  For many hours we watched over him, endeavoring to cheer and comfort him.  At the last, he came to the conclusion that he must die.  Sending for me, he made me promise to visit his family on Red River, and be the bearer to them of the sad intelligence; also of many messages, which he delivered with the fortitude of a Christian philosopher; but once, when speaking of his wife, his voice was choked, and the strong man turned aside his head to weep.  To my earnest entreaty that he would postpone the subject <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>These cases of sickness very much hastened the breaking up of our mining operations for the season.  Many of the company left for the mountains, to be ready for the winter diggings.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Nov. 9th. This is my last day at the mines.  We removed our cradles this morning to the portion of the channel from which we had taken out the largest amount of gold, hoping that we might find the vein again.  There were favorable indications close under the centre wall; but the vein dipped below the wall, and we worked on, at every step undermining it, and still led on by the hope of reaching one of those rare deposits in which thousands are found.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Nov. 10th. For the last time, I have just climbed the mountain above Hart's Bar.  On looking back, below me is spread out the narrow, winding valley, between its two mountains, widening at that point into an extensive bar, through which, on account of the many dams, canals, and other obstructions, the tortured river seems to have infinite difficulty in forcing its way.  There is also the collection of tents, and the miners engaged in cooking, and collected in small groups about their camp-fires, for it is a cool morning.  There stand the wrecks of our aqueduct and canal; the bare half channel of the river, and the surface of the bar scarred and pitted over.  There is the scene of my labors for long months.  There is my own arbor, and its last fire still smoking; and there our place of worship; and lower down is where our company meetings were held.  And there are the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>On the road, where before there were only tents or rude arbors, are now some frame buildings.  And it was cause of surprise to see the great number of wagons and mule-trains, heavily laden for the mines.  Where were to be found consumers for all this?  Then came the news-man, with almost a mule-load of New York Heralds.  I had come alone, and entirely unarmed, and it was a source of amusement to me to meet the emigrants on their way to the mines, completely armed.  A mile out from Stockton, I met a Frenchman, armed with a double hunting-gun, pistols, dirk, &amp;c., who came up to me, looking carefully on this side and on that, and inquired anxiously, "Is there any danger about the bear?"  He seemed surprised when I told him I had come down from the mines alone and unarmed; that on my way across the plain I had seen a few elk and deer, and immense herds of antelope.</P>
090.sgm:<P>At Stockton I received letters from home of three months' later date; and the same evening left, in one of the river steamers, for San Francisco, where I arrived early the next morning.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
090.sgm:<P>GENERAL ESTIMATE OF GAINS--RETURN TO PHILADELPHIA.</P>
090.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, which has already been several times burned down, and as often, Phoenix-like, arisen from its ashes, seems to be improved by each conflagration.  A new edition, revised and improved, has just been issued.  I should not have known the city.  Indeed, there was little there--excepting the land, and that cut down and changed--which had been there when I left.  The city of tents and sheds was changed to one of substantial edifices, while some blocks of very respectable brick houses had been built.  One could not pass through the city without being impressed with the sentiment which seems to describe the whole thing, " <HI REND="italics">Enterprise run mad</HI>
090.sgm:."<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
090.sgm: Each one of the vast throng hastens on, busy in his own plans and pursuits.  Nothing can so well give the idea, by a single image, of San Francisco, as naming it a moral whirlpool.  A mysterious, but all-pervading and powerful attraction, emanating from this wonderful point, has been felt in the remotest parts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">The following anecdote will illustrate this sentiment.  A foreigner of considerable wealth hastened with the crowd to California.  After spending a few days in San Francisco, he left for home, without making an investment of his money.  He remarked, in a letter to a friend, "As soon as you reach San Francisco you will think every one is crazy; and without great caution, you will be crazy yourself."</NOTE>
090.sgm:<P>To give such a sketch of society in San Francisco as could be understood and appreciated-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"To force it sit, till he has pencil'd off<LB>A faithful image of the form he views"--<LB></HI>
090.sgm:<P>would indeed be a difficult task.  Every thing is in such a state of transition and change, from month to month, that a truthful description now would not be such one short year hence.  When I first visited the city, the gamblers generally set their tables under large tents, which answered the purpose, also, of eating-rooms.  In my second visit, these tents had given place to magnificent saloons.  In these vast and splendid establishments, the mind was bewildered, the senses were fascinated.  Appeals--almost irresistible to the young, often to the aged, and even to those who had ministered at the altar--were made, calculated to arouse the deepest and strongest passions of our nature.  There was wine, and the more intoxicating eye of beauty, to kindle and to madden.  There was music, by the most accomplished and able professors of the art, to captivate.  There were paintings, such as my pen may not describe; and there were treasures of silver and gold, which <HI REND="italics">might</HI>
090.sgm:<P>In my third visit to the city, these saloons had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>While at San Francisco, an unusual case of success in mining has been made public, and created much excitement even in this city of wonders--so much so as to show that such instances are very rare.  Three miners had worked a claim, from which, in the course of a few weeks, they took $84,000.  Their expenses for labor, provisions, &amp;c., were about $24,000; But they had with them each about $20,000.  I was informed that several hundred miners had been attracted to the same bar by the success of these men, but that no other rich deposits had been found, and, in general, the others were not making a living.  Notwithstanding the overgrown fortunes which have been, in some few cases, so rapidly accumulated, I hazard the assertion that in no other part of the United States can there be found so many persons abjectly poor, in proportion to the population, as among those who have resorted to California for purposes of mining.  Much is now said, and considerable excitement felt, on the subject of the quartz mining.  When two exceptions are made, I know of no locations where the quartz-crushing operations can be at present successfully prosecuted.  Two reasons may be given for this opinion.  One is, the high price of labor; the second is, the difficulty of replacing parts of the machinery in case of a break.  Many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The mode of conducting business in the cities is anomalous.  No skill in business transactions; no far-sighted, clear judgment; no long experience in matters of commerce, insure success here.  It is much as it is at the mines.  A happy hit, if made by the novice--and it is as likely to be made by him as by any--makes the poor man to-day a rich man to-morrow.  In the spring of 1849, the single article of saleratus sold for $12 a lb.; it could be purchased in New York at 4 cents.  One hundred dollars invested in this single article, deducting all expenses, would yield at the least $25,000.  At that same time, building lots in Sacramento City were held at $500; in six weeks they brought $25,000.  Let any one calculate for himself what would be the amount made from fifty lots at this rate.  In the space of six months, the owner of $100 <HI REND="italics">might</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Such glittering and gilded castles as these, floating through the imaginations of thousands, led to those wild speculations in lumber, provisions, and other things, which, in the end, have come tumbling down upon the heads of the builders.</P>
090.sgm:<P>While at San Francisco I had opportunity of obtaining information respecting the companies which had been formed in the States.  Not one of these, so far as I could learn, continued together; they were often dissolved before they reached the mines.  And even if they held a charter, and were bound to each other under heavy liabilities, they soon fell to pieces on reaching the gold placers.  One intelligent gentleman, who had enjoyed every opportunity for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Before I left the mines, I applied to the secretaries or other officers of mining companies upon the Tuolumne for statements respecting their operations during the past season.  These were companies extending along the river a few miles both above and below Hart's Bar.  Their operations were generally more successful than those of other damming companies, excepting, perhaps, some upon the Yuba River.  I speak within bounds when I say that four out of five of the river damming operations, through the whole mines, were failures.  The averages of the fourteen companies given below were generally obtained from their books.  In some instances, their mining operations were continued after I left, but only in a limited degree, and, in general, were entirely suspended, and the members were scattering among the various winter diggings, or, in a few cases, seeking their distant homes.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 1.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sign&tilde;orita Bar Company.</HI>
090.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Total number of days, 1354.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Highest number of hands one day, 96.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Commenced on the 3d of September, and left on the 25th of October.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Total amount taken from bar, $9700.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Highest amount in one day, 7 lbs. 4 oz.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Length of dam, 290 feet.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Loss by rise of river in repairs, $1400.</P>
090.sgm:<P>$1000 taken out since we left.  Our force was too large to be longer profitably employed.  The upper part of the bar was poor, and on the west side the bed was black slate, with a deposit of three or four feet, and on the slate was found pieces of pine and other timber; and the whole had the appearance of ashes or ash-bed, the water upon it resembling soapsuds.  All the specimens found contained greater or less quantities of quartz R. N. WOOD.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 2.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Stephens's Bar Damming and Mining Company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Gross amount of gold taken out this year from Stephens's Bar Damming and Mining Company, $12,000.</P>
090.sgm:<P>October 26th, took out $1224.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Length of canal, 1200 yards.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Number of men in the company, 38.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Number of days' work put on by each member, 120.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Name of treasurer, Wm. Canfield, New York.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"  "  secretary, John F. Sullivan, Baltimore.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 3.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Items of the Third Bar Company, Tuolumne River</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Organized 25th July, 1850.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Number of members, private, 6.</P>
090.sgm:<P>J. W. Morrel, president.</P>
090.sgm:<P>C. Powell, secretary and treasurer.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Number of members, aggregate, 8.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"  "  Mexicans employed, average, 60.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"  "  days' labor, 4260.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Length of canal, 730 yards.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"  "  dam, 88 yards.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Cost of labor for day, $5 each Mexican.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Cost of labor, and other expenses, to complete the job, $239 48.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Amount of gold and other valuables obtained from the above labor, 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 4.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>5 members; 210 days; amount of gold, 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 5.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Extension Company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>12 members; 1100 days.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Amount, $2250.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Average for day, $2 04.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 6.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Hawkins's Bar Company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>N. Kingsley, president; John Richardson, secretary; Geo. Goodhart, treasurer.</P>
090.sgm:<P>108 members.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Time of labor, 7776 days.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Amount of gold, $35,500.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Average for day, $4 56.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>No. 7.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Ficket Company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Robert Armstrong, treasurer.</P>
090.sgm:<P>14 members; 434 days.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Amount made, $4368.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Average for day, $10 06.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 8.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Payne's Bar Company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>20 members; 1820 days; amount, $6792.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Average for day, $3 73.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 9.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Grisly Company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Geo. Buttress, president; D. F. Smyers, secretary and treasurer.</P>
090.sgm:<P>10 members; largest day's work, $2600.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Time of labor, 540 days.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Amount, $11,000.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Average for day, $20 37.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 10.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Wild Yankee Company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>15 members; time, 450 days; amount, $4000.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Average for day, $8 88.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 11.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Jacsonville Company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Thos. Sayre, president; G. N. Harris, secretary; Geo. Somers, treasurer.</P>
090.sgm:<P>50 members; time of labor, 10,000 days.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Amount taken out, $10,900.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Average for day, $1 09.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 12.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Extension company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>20 members; time, 720 days; avails, 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 13.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">York Bar Company</HI>
090.sgm:<P>20 members; 714 days; avails, 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>No. 14.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Hart's Bar Company.</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Thos. S. Hotchkiss, president; Daniel B. Woods, secretary and treasurer.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Number of members, 21.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Largest day's work, $4198.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Number of days' labor, 1938.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Total amount, $17,123.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Average per day, $8 83.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Number of members in these fourteen companies, 344.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Total number of days' labor, 35,876, or 114 years of 313 working days each.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Total amount taken out, $113,633.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Average for each day's labor, $3 16.</P>
090.sgm:<P>My efforts to obtain averages of the winter mines were attended with much greater difficulty.  But few of the miners kept any account of the results of their labors, and those who did were often unwilling that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:their names should appear in connection with such inconsiderable profits.  In my journal I have the names of <HI REND="italics">fifty-six</HI>
090.sgm:<P>My estimate commences at the time I reached the Marepoosa diggings, which was the 12th day of November, 1849, and a few days after the rainy season commenced, and ends at the time I went to Jacksonville, April 3d, 1850, and covers a period of one hundred and twenty-one working days to each of fifty-six miners, or six thousand seven hundred and seventy-six days in the aggregate.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Number of miners, 56.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Length of time, 121 working days.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Total number of days' work, 6776.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Whole amount made, $22,089 76.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The aggregate amount each day, averaged, $182 56.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Average to each of 56 miners, each day, $3 26.</P>
090.sgm:<P>It would exhibit curious results were I prepared to present a statement of the mining operations of one hundred and twenty-nine miners with whom I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Nov. 26th, 1850. We set sail in the French ship Chateaubriand, [diaps] homeward bound."  On January 8th, 1851, reached Panama.  After spending twenty days upon the Isthmus, on January 28th weighed anchor; had a rapid run, the Georgia putting into Havana for coal, and to part with a portion of her six hundred and fifty passengers; and on Saturday, February 8th, arrived at New York, and the same night at Philadelphia, after an absence of two years and eight days.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>And now, as I take leave of my reader, he will find me seated again at my old writing-desk--the Christmas present of my dear pupils, some of whom have already called in to see me.  How familiar it looks!  And how light and cheerful every thing is, as if I had been shut up in a dark, close room <HI REND="italics">so long</HI>
090.sgm:!  And how familiar and dear are all the scenes and faces of home, only grown older and larger!  I imagine myself, only one moment, back at the top of the hill from which I last saw my companions.  I think they were then looking miserable in the distance, and I think they still look and feel so now.  If they could hear me, I would wish them soon that happiness which can make them forget that they have not come home with their weight in gold, though they may find that which is more than worth it, for there <HI REND="italics">are</HI>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>HINTS TO MINERS.</P>
090.sgm:<P>THE experience of sixteen months in the mines enables me to make a few suggestions which may be of importance to those intending to become miners.</P>
090.sgm:<P>And with regard to the preparations which should be made, a great error has been committed by most California emigrants, in making too much preparation.  A change of substantial clothing, with several pairs of well-made water-proof boots, form a good outfit in that line.  It is important, where so much work is to be done in the water, to wear flannel, even in the summer.  It is attended with great inconvenience and much expense to transport a large chest or trunk from place to place.  I have known many, on arriving at San Francisco, who sell off, at a great loss, the greatest part of all their stores, reducing them to one change of clothing.  There is great risk, also, of losing one's effects by fire or by water, or by the breaking up of the establishment in which they are stored.  The Amity and Enterprise Association, formed before we left Philadelphia, can speak knowingly upon this subject.  Each individual of this association had an outfit which would have lasted three or four years.  In addition, they had company property, in provisions, tents, mining utensils, &amp;c., to a considerable amount.  Most of this was sent around the Horn by several shipments.  The rest we took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>I believe all who are at the mines would agree with me in recommending to the new miner to leave all machinery behind him.  If he takes any thing in that line, let it be the best <HI REND="italics">mining pick</HI>
090.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">spade</HI>
090.sgm: he can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>By all means avoid companies which are got up at home for mining.  Whatever facilities they offer; whatever array of influential names they present; whatever they purpose or promise to accomplish--if they come to you with a charter, or a ship, of which you are to share the advantages-- <HI REND="italics">avoid companies formed at home!</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Much time is lost in the mines by those who are led, by exaggerated stories of success, from a place where they are working with some advantage, to seek a better location.  Leave the work of prospecting, principally, to the more experienced miners.  There is an excitement connected with the pursuit of gold which renders one restless and uneasy--ever hoping to do something better.  The very uncertainty of the employment increases this tendency.  A person may be making his quarter ounce a day, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>When you have marked off your claim upon a bar--a place which has been proved-- <HI REND="italics">dig down to the rock!</HI>
090.sgm: Many have been losers by relinquishing their work before it is finished.  The gold is generally scattered upon the primitive rock.  All the rich deposits are here.  You may dig over the quarter part of your claim and find little gold, while a parcel containing pounds may lie concealed in the last corner.  A friend from Philadelphia, who marked off a claim at the Chinese diggings, dug it partly out, came to water, which disheartened him, and gave it up.  Three miners went into it at once, and in a few hours had taken out $375.  The necessity of perseverance in such an employment must be apparent to all.  You can not hope to accomplish any thing without it.  Your motto must be, " <HI REND="italics">Hope on, hope ever!</HI>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Be careful of your health!</HI>
090.sgm: This once gone, your hopes are at an end.  An unfortunate miner at the Marepoosa diggings, who had brought upon himself an attack of scurvy by the neglect of his health, said to me, during a visit made to him, "I would give all the gold of California, if I had it, for the health I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>There are many other points to which I might profitably call your attention, but respecting which experience will be your best teacher.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>A few thoughts as to the various kinds of gold and gold-digging.  (See the Appendix.)  The gold deposits are found in the quartz and slate formations, in decomposed granite, in sand and gravel beds, and in clay.  The largest specimens are found between the layers of slate over which the stream flows vertically.  The rocks and soil are frequently volcanic, like those of Pompeii.  Lumps of gold are often found alone, and are no indication of the existence of a rich deposit.  But the scale and dust gold is not found in this detached state; it exists generally in veins, though sometimes much scattered through the soil by the action of the water.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The river diggings are sometimes upon the bars over which the stream has formerly run.  These bars are covered with stones, which, with a portion of the soil below, must be removed, to the distance of several feet.  When, by experiment, it is found to yield gold, the cradle is placed by the river side, and the dirt is washed through it, while the gold settles at the bottom of the machine.  At the close of the work, this is washed down in pans, and then is dried in the sun or by the fire, and is still farther cleaned by blowing, by the magnet, or by quicksilver.  The river diggings found in the channels require much more labor in the preparation, and must be worked by companies, sometimes of one hundred persons.  A canal and dam must be made, to turn the water from the channel of the river.  After that, the process is the same as the bar working.  These constitute, generally, the summer diggings, as the rivers are low, and in a better state for being worked.  The winter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:diggings are found among the ravines and gulches, and upon the plains where the streams have formerly run.  These are dry in summer, and can only be worked after the rainy season commences.  But the Mexicans and Chilinos have a method of "dry washing," or winnowing the gold-dirt, much as grains are winnowed, the dirt being blown away, and the gold falling into the blanket or skin.  The dry diggings are sometimes worked during the dry season, and the dirt thrown up in heaps, to be washed out when there is water.  If worked in the rainy season, the water must be turned by small dams and canals, leaving the channel and its banks dry.  This kind of labor is very difficult, but often pays well.  The other kind of dry digging is the most laborious of all.  It is sometimes the case that very rich deposits are found upon the small plains lying between the mountains.  The river which formerly ran here has been displaced by the soil, which accumulates to a great depth.  The soil must be removed, sometimes to the depth of twenty, thirty, or even forty feet, before the gold is found.  When found, it sometimes proves very rich, but more frequently very poor.  I have seen a company of nine persons labor for two weeks, keeping down the water with pumps, and, after all their toil, not find a grain of gold to reward their efforts.  It is truly one of the most discouraging circumstances in a miner's life, that, although he may one day make his pounds, the next he may make little or nothing.  It is equally disheartening to him to be working all day for the merest trifle, while by his side, and within a few feet of him, another is taking out his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The actual time favorable for mining during the year is very limited, the greater proportion of which is spent in preparations.  Some of the river companies spent five, and one six months' time, in making their canal, dam, and other preparations for two months' mining, in September, October, and November.  Much time is lost during the excessive heat of the dry and the storms of the rainy season, and more in the profitless, but arduous labor of <HI REND="italics">prospecting</HI>
090.sgm:.  Then much time must be spent in removing, in purchasing provisions, in building houses, &amp;c.  If all the days of actual <HI REND="italics">mining</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Much was anticipated, at the commencement of the last rainy season, from the use of the submarine armor in working the channels of the rivers.  Much money was expended, and much time lost in making experiments, but to little advantage.  In every instance where they were tried on the Tuolumne, they were soon abandoned as useless.  The experiments tried near me were made by an old Georgia gold miner, and one who had been accustomed to the use of the submarine suit, which he had worn in recovering some treasures from a ship sunk in the Mississippi.  But he never accomplished any thing with it at the mines.  In addition to the cradle, which has been always in use in the mines, the North Carolina rocker and the Long Tom are used to advantage upon the placers where the gold is very fine.  These are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Before closing this chapter of miscellanies, I will endeavor to guard you against some moral evils--or I might better name them <HI REND="italics">immoral influence</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Why it is so, it is not my purpose now to inquire; but such is the fact, that in California there are circumstances which render vice very attractive and alluring, and which, unless resolutely resisted, draw the mind to become familiar with it, and in the end to embrace it.  The man esteemed virtuous at home becomes profligate, the honest man dishonest, and the clergyman sometimes a profane gambler; while, on the contrary, the cases are not few of those who were idle or profligate at home, who come here to be reformed.  It can not be known what influence such trials and temptations will exert upon the character till they are tried.  If they are resisted, the character is strengthened; if they are not resisted, the propensity to vice is proportionally increased.  But not only does vice seem more alluring here--it comes, from the very circumstances in which the miner is placed, to be a substitute for common amusement.  He has not the society of the home circle to cheer and enliven him.  Disheartened, often reduced to the depths of melancholy, he has no longer the friends--the innocent recreations to which he has been accustomed.  On the Sabbath morning, no church is open for the sad and dispirited wanderer, self-exiled from his father's house!  No mother, or sisters, or beloved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:wife can cheer him by their conversation and smiles.  Is it to be wondered at, then, that in his gloom he listens to the voice of the Syren, and turns away to seek those broken cisterns which can hold no water?  Do you not perceive that he is exposed to peculiar and great danger?  But recollect, if the danger is great, so much greater is the virtue of overcoming it.  If the trial is severe, so much stronger the energy and resolution which is requisite to vanquish it.  And if the temptation is resisted, the moral principles are strengthened just in proportion to the degree of temptation.  The young man who returns home from California untainted, and of whom it may be said,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Among the faithless, faithful he,"<LB></HI>
090.sgm:<P>may ever after be trusted.  He has been tried as gold is tried, and the trial has but served to exhibit the excellence of his character; and well may his friends esteem and love him more, even if he returns to them without an ounce of gold, than if he came home with his thousands with a ruined character.</P>
090.sgm:<P>As I entered one of the magnificent gambling saloons of San Francisco, and proceeded from one table to another, I saw, to my surprise, a young man, who had come from one of the most religious families in his native city, placing down his money upon the table.  I stepped to his side.  In a moment the card was turned, and a small amount of silver was added to that already in his hand.  He looked anxiously at me, and said, "I would not have my mother know what I am doing for all the money in this room."  "Why then do it?"  I asked; "have you thought to what the first step may lead?"  "But what can I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:do," he said, earnestly; "I came not here to gamble, but to find amusement; and can you tell me what other amusement is within my reach?"  I think that was the first, and am sure it was the last time that my friend visited the saloons for the purpose of gambling.  But it affords an illustration of the subject--the danger, in the absence of proper subjects of interest and amusement, of seeking these in wrong and sinful ways.  Many a person in California becomes a professed gambler in consequence of taking the <HI REND="italics">first step</HI>
090.sgm:<P>But how shall I speak of a kindred subject, so fraught with danger that numbers of our most gifted citizens have yielded themselves to it.  I think <HI REND="italics">intemperance</HI>
090.sgm: may be named as, next to gambling, the most prevailing vice of California.  They generally go hand in hand.  In this country, where the common restraints are removed which formerly imposed a salutary check, this vice gains disgusting and dangerous prominence.  All that it is in its secluded orgies, all that it becomes in its favorite haunts elsewhere, it is in California in open day.  It blushes not to show itself in its most fearful forms even in the public streets.  Many a poor miner, who becomes discouraged and sinks down into gloom, flies to strong drink as he would to a friend from whom he expects to receive relief.  Occasionally, the Daguerreotype likenesses of dear friends at home, or the sight of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:neglected Bible--(for most miners have both of these, almost their only treasures)--or the reception of a letter, the miner's only luxury, recalls him to his better self, puts new hopes, new resolutions, and new life into him.  But gradually he yields the ground again; again he stands on slippery places, and soon he staggers into his grave, for soon does vice of every kind perfect its work here.  <HI REND="italics">Licentiousness</HI>
090.sgm:, which is so destructive an evil in large cities in Europe and America, is found also in California, and there produces its bitter fruits.  <HI REND="italics">Profanity</HI>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>No man, young or old, should go to California unless he has firmness of principle enough to resist, and forever hold at bay, all the vices of the country, in whatever disguise they may present themselves, and in however fascinating shapes they may appear.</P>
090.sgm:<P>If I were asked what was the state of religion in the mines, I could only say, it is in <HI REND="italics">no state</HI>
090.sgm:<P>As to the operation of the laws at the mines, and their effects upon the interests of the community, I can only give the facts in the case, without discussing the subject.  When we first reached the gold diggings, life and property were comparatively secure.  Without law, except the law of honor; without restraint, except that imposed by the fear of summary punishment, which was sure to follow the only crimes cognizable under the new code--those of <HI REND="italics">stealing</HI>
090.sgm: and of <HI REND="italics">murder</HI>
090.sgm: --we were comparatively safe.  If <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>But a change came; civil laws were enacted in the mines; and what was the result?  Why, crimes of every kind were committed, and the very officers of justice were met by the taunt, "Catch me, if you can!"  Seldom was the criminal caught; and when caught, more seldom was he brought to punishment.  And there is but one opinion among the miners, that the system <HI REND="italics">without civil law, but with summary justice</HI>
090.sgm:, is,<HI REND="italics"> in the state of society which now exists</HI>
090.sgm: in California, incomparably better than the system <HI REND="italics">with such law, but without justice</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Ere long, California will have a truly <HI REND="italics">golden age</HI>
090.sgm:, when <HI REND="italics">law and justice, and every moral and Christian virtue</HI>
090.sgm:<BACK><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<HEAD>APPENDIX.</HEAD>
090.sgm:<P>I GIVE extracts from a letter which was written by Rev. Dr. Hitchcock, president of Amherst College, as containing some valuable hints to the miner.  The reader will be struck by the accuracy of the opinions so early expressed, and which correspond so exactly with the facts since developed.  It will be considered that Dr. Hitchcock could not then have seen even the first official report from the Mint, as it was some time after the receipt of his letter that the author had the pleasure of hearing Dr. Patterson read that report in manuscript.  The first deposit of gold was made at the Mint December 8th, and the letter is dated December 25th, 1848.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">To the Rev. Daniel B. Woods</HI>
090.sgm:<P>DEAR SIR,--I believe that in almost every case gold mines that are worked occur in loose soil, sand and gravel, where the gold is in grains, and has been washed out of the rocks.  Such is the case in the Uralian Mountains and Siberia, where I believe that not one mine is worked in the solid rocks, although some veins are known.  I should not, therefore, search for veins in the mountains, but try to find the best spots on the banks of rivers.  Success must depend much, indeed, upon chance, though practice doubtless would afford some marks that would be of service.  If you should find veins in the rocks, I doubt whether they would be profitable to work.  I have a strong suspicion that gold will be found all along the western part of our Continent; perhaps through the whole of California and Oregon; for I suspect that this is the eastern side of a vast gold deposit in Asia, reaching as far west as the Uralian Mountains.  If this opinion would increase the gold fever, I think you had better not mention it.  It may not prove true.</P>
090.sgm:<P>I hope you will improve your health, if not your fortunes, by this voyage.  Let your expectations of success in gold-digging be moderate, and then I think the jaunt will do you good.  That God's providence may be over you is the wish and prayer of</P>
090.sgm:<P>Yours respectfully and sincerely,</P>
090.sgm:<P>EDWARD HITCHCOCK.</P>
090.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Amherst, December</HI>
090.sgm: 25 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>P.S.--Magnetic iron sand is an almost invariable attendant of good deposits of gold, and I should not be very sanguine of finding good deposits when this is wanting.</P>
090.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Letter from Geo. F. Dunning, Esq., Clerk in the Mint of the United States</HI>
090.sgm:. MINT OF THE UNITED STATES, <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia, June</HI>
090.sgm:<P>DEAR SIR,--In compliance with your request, I proceed to give you some information respecting the Mint establishment, and the terms upon which it receives bullion for coinage.  You are doubtless correct in supposing that much misapprehension exists both as to the character of the establishment and the routine of its business.  Within the limits of a letter, I can, of course, do little else than notice briefly a few prominent subjects.</P>
090.sgm:<P>A uniform and reliable currency being a national benefit, our government regards the support of the Mint establishment as properly a national expense.  Any person may bring his bullion to the Mint, and have it converted into coin without charge.  Many well-informed persons suppose that all the coinage of the Mint is for government account.  On the contrary, the bullion is all deposited by individuals, and is coined for them.  Government simply receives the bullion, ascertains its value, converts it all to a uniform standard, shapes it into coins, and puts a stamp upon it that shall give assurance of its value.  From the coins thus made, each depositor is paid the exact value of his bullion.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The term <HI REND="italics">bullion</HI>
090.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">weights</HI>
090.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">fineness</HI>
090.sgm:<P>When bullion is left at the Mint for coinage, a receipt is given to the depositor, bearing the date and number of the deposit as entered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Each deposit is separately assayed and reported upon by the assayer.  Its value is then calculated, and a detailed memorandum prepared, exhibiting the number, date, depositor's name, kind of bullion, weights before and after melting, fineness, silver parted (if the deposit is gold), value of the gold, value of silver parted, deductions, and net value payable to the depositor.  This memorandum is given to the depositor with his coin.  Deposits are assayed, calculated, and ready for payment generally within a week after they are made; and they are paid on the surrender of the original Mint receipt.</P>
090.sgm:<P>I have said that the Mint makes no charge for converting bullion into coin.  This is strictly true; but, inasmuch as depositors will frequently find by their "memorandums" that certain deductions have been made by the Mint from the proceeds of their bullion, some farther explanations are required.  A miller who should grind wheat and corn without taking <HI REND="italics">toll</HI>
090.sgm:, would be correctly said to grind without charge.  And if a farmer should carry his wheat in the sheaf, or his corn in the ear, or corn and wheat mixed together in the same bag, he would hardly object to pay the miller for thrashing, shelling, or separating.  If a depositor brings to the Mint bullion "fit for coinage," that is, of standard fineness and properly alloyed, he will receive in return an equal weight of coins, without charge or deduction of any kind.  If, however, his bullion requires <HI REND="italics">refining, alloying, toughening</HI>
090.sgm:, or <HI REND="italics">separating</HI>
090.sgm:<P>The discovery of the California mines has suddenly increased the deposits at the Mint from five or six millions of dollars annually to thirty or forty millions.  The whole amount received at the Mint and branches, from December, 1848, to this date, is about sixty-six millions of dollars.  Of this, about twenty-four millions belong to the present year.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The fineness of California gold ranges from about 825 to 950 thousandths.  The bulk of them, however, are between 870 and 900, the average being about 884.  At this fineness, if entirely free from dirt, an ounce of gold, with the silver contained (deducting Mint charges), is $18 34.  There is usually present in California gold a portion of dirt, averaging five or six per cent. of the weight.  Five per cent. of dirt would reduce the average value given above to $17 42.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>The gold of California contains usually about eleven per cent. of silver.  This silver is separated for the benefit of the depositor, when the amount contained in the deposit is sufficiently large to pay the expense of separating, and yield a surplus of at least five dollars.  If the surplus is less than this, the depositor receives no benefit from it, the law requiring that it shall accrue to the Mint, and be used for paying ordinary expenses.  It is therefore for the interest of depositors to make their deposits sufficiently large to secure the silver contained.  At the average fineness of 884, this would require from 75 to 80 ounces.</P>
090.sgm:<P>For more complete information on this subject, your readers may be referred to a small work entitled "New Varieties of Coins and Bullion, &amp;c., by J. R. Eckfeldt and W. E. Du Bois, Assayers of the Mint, 1850," and to a pamphlet entitled "Guide to the Value of California Gold, by Geo. W. Edelman, U.S. Mint, 1850."</P>
090.sgm:<P>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</P>
090.sgm:<P>GEO. F. DUNNING.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Rev. Daniel B. Woods, Philadelphia.</P>
090.sgm:<P>P.S.--The following rules for making calculations of weight and value may not be unacceptable to the readers of your book.</P>
090.sgm:<P>1.  <HI REND="italics">To convert Pounds Avoirdupois to Ounces Troy</HI>
090.sgm:<P>2.  <HI REND="italics">To convert Ounces Troy to Pounds Avoirdupois</HI>
090.sgm:<P>3.  <HI REND="italics">To find the Standard Weight of Gold or Silver, the gross weight and fineness being given</HI>
090.sgm:<P>4.  <HI REND="italics">To find the Value of Gold and Silver</HI>
090.sgm:<P>SILVER.  To the standard weight, in Troy ounces and decimals, add its one eleventh part, and eight tenths of one eleventh.  The sum will be the value in dollars and cents.</P>
090.sgm:<P>5.  <HI REND="italics">To convert the fineness expressed in Carats into Thousandths</HI>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Since the completion of my work, I have received from Col. J. J. Abert, of Washington, the Report of P. T. Tyson, Esq., presented to the Senate of the United States by the Secretary of War.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Although it is too late to avail myself of the valuable information contained in this report from one who has made a thorough and scientific reconnoissance of the mineral and vegetable wealth, the climate and agriculture of California, I am induced to present a few extracts, which refer more immediately to the mines.  It was a source of much gratification to find the views and statements I have given so fully corroborated by this report.</P>
090.sgm:<P>It will be noticed that the averages of the daily profits of the miners arrived at by Mr. Tyson, as the result of careful observation, differs but a trifle from the averages given in this volume.  In his article upon the gold regions, he writes:</P>
090.sgm:<P>"Although a large amount of gold has been collected in California within the past eighteen or twenty months" (he writes at the close of 1849), "yet, considering the number of persons engaged in digging for it, the average amount to each is far less than is generally supposed.  This conclusion is forced upon the mind irresistibly, when the results of the actual experience of a large number of the operators are taken into consideration.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"The newspapers frequently relate instances of the return of individuals with considerable sums of gold.  Many of these are much overrated, and the far greater number obtained it by other means than digging with their own hands--one portion by honest trading; but much of the hard-earned treasure in the hands of returned individuals has been borne off in triumph, and brought home as the spoils of the conqueror, in contests where honor belongs to neither winner nor loser.</P>
090.sgm:<P>"Representations from and about California are to be received with many grains of allowance.  The preternatural excitement which has been produced by divers causes, in some cases to promote individual benefit, has really impaired to a large extent the faculty of seeing things as they would otherwise have been viewed.  And there is yet no prospect of an end to this state of things, because, as soon as the public mind begins to recover from the effects of previous causes of undue excitement, additional ones are presented in the shape of most exaggerated accounts of golden discoveries.  Whether the public good will be promoted by this state of things may well be doubted.  A reference to <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>"It is the interest of the numerous traders within the gold region to collect around them as many diggers as possible, and each is very naturally induced to regard favorably the diggings of his own vicinity, and takes means to spread accounts of its richness.  Wonderful stories are circulated, in some instances, to increase the population at a particular spot; and when the diggers flock to it, they often find it no better than the one they left, and sometimes less productive.  A very large proportion of those persons we saw in the gold region were <HI REND="italics">in transitu</HI>
090.sgm:; and, upon inquiry, we learned from them usually that the place they had left was unproductive, and they were bound for another which they had <HI REND="italics">heard</HI>
090.sgm: was producing very largely; and on the same day, perhaps, would be seen other parties <HI REND="italics">prospecting</HI>
090.sgm:, as they term it, or looking for better diggings than the poor ones they had left, and in many cases just from the reported <HI REND="italics">good diggings</HI>
090.sgm: the first party were going to.  At some of these places you would hear of some one being very fortunate, and that they averaged per day a half ounce, one, two, or three ounces; but, like the tariff for postage, they never appear to get 1 1/2, 2 1/2, 3 1/2, and so on.  These accounts from particular spots sometimes find their way into California papers, and from them are copied and spread far and wide at home.  Notwithstanding all this waste of time, and that nine out of ten who left their homes under erroneous expectations in reference to the facility with which the gold could be had, have been cruelly disappointed, yet the extent and number of the ravines containing gold is such that the <HI REND="italics">large number</HI>
090.sgm:<P>"It is impossible to ascertain the amount of labor there has been required, or, in other words, the average number who have worked at the diggings, and the number of days' work of each. * * If we suppose only ten thousand to have worked steadily during three hundred days out of about six hundred since the digging began, and suppose each to have gained an average amount of $3 per day, the aggregate would amount to $9,000,000, being very much more than the whole amount exported in <HI REND="italics">every way</HI>
090.sgm:<P>"Many of our citizens hastened to California during the past year in consequence of the numerous exaggerated, one-sided stories which were circulated in reference to the facility with which gold could be gathered.  They had been told of various individuals who had collected large sums; a <HI REND="italics">few</HI>
090.sgm: had done so; but the experience of the <HI REND="italics">many</HI>
090.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>"As with <HI REND="italics">lotteries</HI>
090.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">few</HI>
090.sgm: who draw large prizes become subjects of conversation; but nothing is heard of the <HI REND="italics">many</HI>
090.sgm:<P>"Divesting the newspaper accounts from California of certain expressions bordering rather too much upon the hyperbolic order, they amount to the fact that the outcrops of certain veins"--of gold-bearing quartz--"have been removed.  Such expressions might have materially increased <HI REND="italics">the fever</HI>
090.sgm: but for the frequency of similar causes, which at length but slightly affect the body politic, because, like the body corporate in certain cases, it is becoming <HI REND="italics">acclimated</HI>
090.sgm:.  Some of the expressions alluded to, and copied from California papers into our own, about ` <HI REND="italics">gold-bearing quartz said to be found in inexhaustible masses or quarries through the whole mountainous region which forms the western slope of the Sierra Nevada</HI>
090.sgm:,' and ` <HI REND="italics">these quartz mountain quarries</HI>
090.sgm:, and divers others, are indicative of a state of aurimania.  Accounts are also given of the yield of gold said to be averages of these great <HI REND="italics">gold `quarries</HI>
090.sgm:.'  That the specimens from which the gold was extracted contained the stated proportions is most likely, but that is a very different affair from the <HI REND="italics">average</HI>
090.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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090.sgm:<P>By Mrs. L. H. SIGOURNEY.  12mo, Muslin, 90 cents; Muslin, gilt edges, $1 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The Doctor, &amp;c.</P>
090.sgm:<P>By ROBERT SOUTHEY.  12mo, Muslin, 45 cents.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Percy Anecdotes.</P>
090.sgm:<P>To which is added, a Selection of American Anecdotes.  With Portraits.  8vo, Sheep extra, $2 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The Writings of Robert C. Sands.</P>
090.sgm:<P>With a Memoir.  2 vols. 8vo, Muslin, $3 75.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Sismondi's Historical View of the Literature of the South of Europe.  Translated, with Notes, by THOMAS ROSCOE.  2 vols. 12mo, Muslin, $1 80.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Hon. J. C. Smith's Correspondence and Miscellanies.  With an Eulogy, by the Rev. WILLIAM W. ANDREWS 12mo, Muslin, $1 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>England and America:A Comparison of the Social and Political State of both Nations.  By E. G. WAKEFIELD.  8vo, Muslin, $1 25.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Letters of the British Spy.</P>
090.sgm:<P>By WILLIAM WIRT.  To which is prefixed a Sketch of the Author's Life.  12mo, Muslin, 60 cents.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Paulding's Letters from the South.</P>
090.sgm:<P>2 vols. 12mo, Muslin, $1 25.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Indian Tales and Legends;Or, Algic Researches.  Comprising Inquiries respecting the Mental Characteristics of the North American Indians.  By HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT.  2 vols. 12mo, Muslin, $1 25.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Cassius M. Clay's Writings;Including Speeches and Addresses.  With a Preface and Memoir, by HORACE GREELEY.  Portrait.  8vo, Muslin, $1 50.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Past and Present, Chartism, and Sartor Resartus.  By THOMAS CARLYLE.  12mo, Muslin, $1 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Mathews's Miscellaneous Writings:Embracing The Motley Book, Behemoth, The Politicians, Poems on Man in the Republic, Wakondah, Puffer Hopkins, Miscellanies, &amp;c.  8vo, Muslin, $1 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Verplanck's Right Moral Influence and Use of Liberal Studies.  12mo, Muslin, 25 cents.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Raphael;Or, Pages of the Book of Life at Twenty.  By A. DE LAMARTINE.  12mo, Paper, 25 cents.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Thankfulness.</P>
090.sgm:<P>A Narrative.  Comprising Passages from the Diary of the Rev. Allan Temple.  By the Rev. C. B. TAYLER.  12mo, Paper, 37 1/2 cents; Muslin, 50 cents.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Longfellow's Poems.</P>
090.sgm:<P>A new Edition, enlarged by the Addition of "Evangeline."  8vo, Paper, 62 1/2 cents.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Harper's Illustrated Shakespeare.</P>
090.sgm:<P>The complete Dramatic Writings of William Shakespeare, arranged according to recent approved collations of the Text; with Notes and other Illustrations, by Hon. GULIAN C. VERPLANCK.  Superbly Embellished by over 1400 exquisite Engravings by Hewet, after Designs by Meadows, Weir, and other eminent Artists.  3 vols. royal 8vo, Muslin, $18 00; half Calf, $20 00; Turkey Morocco, gilt edges, $25 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Shakespeare's Dramatic Works.</P>
090.sgm:<P>With the Corrections and Illustrations of Dr. JOHNSON, G. STEEVENS, and others.  Revised by ISAAC REED, Esq.  With Engravings.  6 vols. royal 12mo, Muslin, $6 50.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Shakespeare's Dramatic Works and Poems.</P>
090.sgm:<P>With Notes, by SAMUEL WELLER SINGER, and a Life of the Poet, by CHARLES SYMMONS, D.D.  With Engravings.  8vo, Sheep extra, 1 vol., $2 50; 2 vols., $2 75.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Milton's Poetical Works.</P>
090.sgm:<P>With a Memoir and Critical Remarks on his Genius and Writings, by JAMES MONTGOMERY.  With 120 Engravings.  2 vols. 8vo, Muslin, gilt edges, $3 75; imitation Morocco, gilt edges, $4 25; Turkey Morocco, gilt edges, $5 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Cowper's Poetical Works.</P>
090.sgm:<P>With a Biographical and Critical Introduction, by the Rev. THOMAS DALE.  With 75 Illustrations.  2 vols. 8vo, Muslin, gilt edges, $3 75; Turkey Morocco, gilt edges, $5 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Thomson's Seasons.</P>
090.sgm:<P>With numerous engraved Illustrations.  And with the Life of the Author, by PATRICK MURDOCH, D.D., F.R.S.  Edited by BOLTON CORNEY, Esq.  8vo, Muslin, gilt edges, $2 75; imitation Morocco, gilt edges, $3 50; Turkey Morocco, gilt edges, $4 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Goldsmith's Poetical Works.</P>
090.sgm:<P>Illustrated by numerous Wood Engravings.  With a Biographical Memoir, and Notes on the Poems.  Edited by BOLTON CORNEY, Esq.  8vo, Muslin, gilt edges, $2 50; imitation Morocco, gilt edges, $3 25; Turkey Morocco, gilt edges, $3 75.</P>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>Published by Harper &amp; Brothers, New York.</P>
090.sgm:<P>THE</P>
090.sgm:<P>ISLAND WORLD OF THE PACIFIC:</P>
090.sgm:<P>BEING THE PERSONAL NARRATIVE AND RESULTS OF TRAVEL THROUGH</P>
090.sgm:<P>THE SANDWICH OR HAWAIIAN ISLANDS AND OTHER PARTS</P>
090.sgm:<P>OF POLYNESIA.</P>
090.sgm:<P>BY REV. HENRY T. CHEEVER</P>
090.sgm:<P>WITH ENGRAVINGS.  12MO, MUSLIN, $1 00.</P>
090.sgm:<P>It combines with its sketches of manners, scenery, people, and events, such accurate and complete statistical and historical facts, as to put the reader in possession of all that is desirable to know.  Its descriptions are very vivid and life-like; in many cases they are set off by drawings, and always succeed in bringing definite and impressive pictures to the mind.-- <HI REND="italics">Christian ParlorMagazine</HI>
090.sgm:<P>His descriptions of scenery and manners, as well as historical sketches, are admirably fresh, picturesque, and original; and the information he conveys is derived from the most authentic sources, and free from prejudice, or any motive to untruth.-- <HI REND="italics">New York Evangelist</HI>
090.sgm:<P>It is full of information and life, telling stories of land and sea in a way to stir the passion for adventure without harm to the sobriety of the reader's temper, or the steadfastness of his faith.  We need such books always, and especially now, when a new age of marine adventure is awakened, and our youth are taking with fresh zeal to the seas.  Voyages are always captivating to the young, and happy is it when the story is told by a Christian or a man of taste.  The book is just the thing for the host of boys between fourteen and twenty, the mighty generation now starting on the race or voyage of life.-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Enquirer</HI>
090.sgm:<P>It is written with good judgment and good taste, and contains much valuable information that will be welcome to all classes, and especially to the friends of Christian missions.-- <HI REND="italics">New York Observer</HI>
090.sgm:<P>His book can not fail to be widely read during the present excitement in regard to every thing connected with the Pacific Ocean.-- <HI REND="italics">New York Tribune</HI>
090.sgm:<P>It is full of pleasing incident told in a pleasing vein, and lets one deeply into the <HI REND="italics">reality</HI>
090.sgm: of that island life, whereof Typee and Kaloolah gave us its <HI REND="italics">mystery</HI>
090.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">romance</HI>
090.sgm:.-- <HI REND="italics">Rochester American</HI>
090.sgm:<P>The manners and morals of the Hawaiians as also their religious condition are well described, and the influence and the operations of the missionaries are depicted in a much more favorable and candid spirit than has been the case with other travelers.-- <HI REND="italics">Protestant Churchman</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Mr. Cheever has a painter's eye and a poet's heart; and his descriptions are full of life, and nature, and feeling.  They partake of the sublime, the pathetic, the amusing, and the instructive; and wherever else the book may lack readers, it will always be a favorite in the forecastle and in the "cabin boy's locker."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Puritan Recorder</HI>
090.sgm:<P>It is the record of travel, in the fullest sense of the term, giving, as we judge, a true picture of the people, with whom the author was thrown into contact.  Numerous wood-cuts from original designs embellish the volume.--N. Y.  <HI REND="italics">Commercial</HI>
090.sgm:<P>A volume worthy of the age, and of the present wants of the world.  We have perused it with unmingled pleasure and delight, and promise any one who will take the trouble to open it, an amount and richness of information relative to the Polynesian world, to be obtained from no other source.-- <HI REND="italics">American Spectator</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Those who have read "The Whale and his Captors" will require no assurance that this new production of its accomplished author is a pleasing and instructive book.  The "Island World of the Pacific" will add to the reputation of the writer, and will, we doubt not, become a popular work.-- <HI REND="italics">Albany Evening Journal</HI>
090.sgm:<P>The book is written in a lively and pleasant style, and has an air of life about it which makes it peculiarly valuable and attractive.-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Evening Journal</HI>
090.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
090.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
090.sgm:<P>THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY AND MEMORIALS</P>
090.sgm:<P>OF</P>
090.sgm:<P>CAPTAIN OBADIAH CONGAR:</P>
090.sgm:<P>FOR FIFTY YEARS MARINER AND SHIPMASTER FROM THE</P>
090.sgm:<P>PORT OF NEW YORK.</P>
090.sgm:<P>BY REV. HENRY T. CHEEVER,</P>
090.sgm:<P>AUTHOR OF "THE WHALE AND HIS CAPTORS," AND "ISLAND WORLD OF THE PACIFIC," 16MO, MUSLIN, 50 CENTS.</P>
090.sgm:<P>This is a fitting monument to the memory of an old sailor, who, after having weathered many storms on the ocean of life, arrived safe, at an advanced age, in the haven of everlasting rest.  There is a good deal of interesting incident in his life, but the most interesting circumstance is that, in spite of the peculiar temptationsto which his profession exposed him, he maintained a close and humble walk with God.  It is proper that the example of such a man should be embalmed, and Mr. Cheever has done it well.-- <HI REND="italics">New York Observer</HI>
090.sgm:<P>The individuality described is that of a man exposed to the varied temptations and distractions of a sailor's life, but still drawn heavenward by the influence of the spirit of God, and describing in a simple and unaffected manner the influence of God's mercies and chastisements in the formation of his character as a Christian.  The tone of the book is healthy and liberal; it appears to contain much to recommend it to the perusal of those who are looking to God as their "ever present help in every time of trouble."  The author already enjoys a high reputation from his "Island World of the Pacific."-- <HI REND="italics">Parker's Journal</HI>
090.sgm:<P>With the trials and adventures of a veteran sailor, there is blended in this narrative a minute account of his religious experience.  Independent, therefore, of the interest of the memoir, the work, from its clear style and cheap form, is well adapted for the Sunday reading of the forecastle, and should be distributed by the friends of seamen.-- <HI REND="italics">Home Journal</HI>
090.sgm:<P>This is a faithful, well-written, and instructive biography of an eminently practical good man.  It deserves a place, and will have it, in our District and Sabbath School libraries.-- <HI REND="italics">Hartford Courant</HI>
090.sgm:<P>Captain Congar was a genuine old Puritan salt, who sailed for more than fifty years as a shipmaster out of this port.  He, of course, led a life of vicissitude and adventure, which he relates, partly himself, and partly through Mr. Cheever, with great earnestness and simplicity.-- <HI REND="italics">Even. Post</HI>
090.sgm:<P>In the autobiography of Capt. Congar we find much to admire and more to respect.  His life was one universally instructive, and can not fail to be particularly interesting to every nautical individual, whether he be a shipmaster or an humble seaman before the mast.  He was eminently a holy man, a faithful Christian, and an untiring laborer in the cause of his Master.  It is appropriately dedicated by the author to the Seaman's Friend Societies of the two great commercial nations of the globe--England and America.-- <HI REND="italics">New York Farmer and Mechanic</HI>
090.sgm:<P>From such a history useful lessons may be drawn, and its perusal will have a tendency to strengthen good purposes, and to incite others to follow a worthy example, while as a mere personal narrative it will be found entertaining and often of thrilling interest.-- <HI REND="italics">Northern Budget.</HI>
091.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-091</TITLE>
091.sgm:<TITLE>"Little sheaves" gathered while gleaning after reapers.  Being letters of travel commencing in 1870, and ending in 1873.  By Caroline M. Churchill:a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
091.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
091.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
091.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
091.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
091.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
091.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
091.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>20-18492</LCCN>
091.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
091.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>274347</COPYRIGHT>
091.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>"Little Sheaves"</P>
091.sgm:<P>GATHERED WHILE GLEANING AFTER REAPERS.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Being Letters of Travel commencing in 1870, and ending in 1873</P>
091.sgm:<P>BY</P>
091.sgm:<P>MRS. C. M. CHURCHILL</P>
091.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO:</P>
091.sgm:<P>1874.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874. by Mrs. C. M. Churchill, in the office of the Librarian of Congress: at Washington.</P>
091.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>"Little Sheaves"</P>
091.sgm:<P>GATHERED WHILE GLEANING AFTER REAPERS.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Being Letters of Travel commencing in 1870, and ending<LB>in 1873.</P>
091.sgm:<P>BY</P>
091.sgm:<P>MRS. C. M. CHURCHILL.</P>
091.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO:</P>
091.sgm:<P>1874.</P>
091.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<HEAD>The Golden State.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Here I am in the Golden Land, so well pleased that, like the old Queen of Sheba, I exclaim, "The half has not been told me."  Leaving bleak, cold, windy Chicago, so ill that I could not sit up, I began to amend rapidly as I breathed the invigorating air of the great plains.  Arriving here after a most delightful journey of six days, I have gained sufficient strength to walk three miles without being unduly fatigued.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Delightful as imagination had pictured the overland route, the reality of the beauty and grandeur of the scenery exceeded expectation.  Illimitable plains, lofty, snow-capped mountains, and lovely, fertile valleys succeed each other, ever beautiful and ever varying.  Among the mountain passes the snow was very deep, but the snow-sheds prevent it from covering the tracks, so that there is no danger.  One of the snow-sheds is twenty-eight miles in length.  Time seemed long as we passed through it, and we greatly regretted that it hid the mountain view from our sight.</P>
091.sgm:<P>My first impressions of the Golden State are more than fancy had painted them.  To me the country appears the most beautiful upon earth.  The weather is warm and mild.  I am writing with open doors and windows, the bright sun cheering me with its vivifying rays, while I hear the hens cackle as they do at home in early spring, (they lay eggs all winter).  The birds are singing and building their nests.  The grass is six inches high, and the foliage is beautifully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Sacramento Valley is called the Garden of California.  Its soil is dark and fertile, and yields large quantities of grain.  Plowing and sowing were progressing at an immense rate as we passed through it.  The Californians do business on the high pressure principle, and "push things" in a most wonderful fashion.</P>
091.sgm:<P>San Jose contains 10,000 inhabitants.  It is surrounded by a mountain chain, shutting off the severe ocean breezes, and tempering the atmosphere so that it is sufficiently cool to be bracing, and yet not warm enough to produce the debility of Florida.  It is clean, and has the nice look of a Northern city.  Owing to rapid immigration, real estate is held at a high figure, though the cost of living is about equal to that of the States.  A macadamized road, handsomely shaded, three miles in extent, with a horse railroad, connects San Jose with a pleasant suburban village, greatly to the pleasure and convenience of all, particularly tourists.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Its climate, at this season, is delightful.  Though rain frequently falls, the showers are always warm.  And though <HI REND="italics">earthquakes</HI>
091.sgm: occur often, people tell me they "do not mind 'em but just let ' <HI REND="italics">em quake</HI>
091.sgm:."  Yet I fancy they are more courageous <HI REND="italics">after</HI>
091.sgm: than <HI REND="italics">during</HI>
091.sgm: the occurrence.  The scenery is grand beyond description, and the soil produces an abundance of " <HI REND="italics">edible things</HI>
091.sgm:<P>The people represent every nationality on the face of the earth, yet they possess that true and frank hospitality which <HI REND="italics">boasts</HI>
091.sgm: not of its deeds of kindness, like unto the " <HI REND="italics">chivalry</HI>
091.sgm:."  They say that nothing would induce them to reside permanently in the States, yet, when their " <HI REND="italics">pile</HI>
091.sgm:<P>The theory of <HI REND="italics">woman's rights</HI>
091.sgm: meets with much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The weather during the entire month of January has been remarkably lovely, warm and mild, clear and sunny, reminding the tourist from "the States" of the beautiful Indian Summer of home.  The air is cool and exhilerating, producing a stimulating effect upon the nervous system.  One experiences a slight stinging sensation in lips, tongue and extremities, like reaction of cold, but as the weather has not been at all cold, scarcely chilly, it must be produced by the warm sunshine succeeding the cool, bracing morning air.  The atmosphere possesses certain properties which render the invalid wakeful, and it becomes necessary to coax and pet old Somnus ere he will yield one his refreshing and soothing embrace.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The soil is as rich and dark colored as that of Wisconsin, and is equally as fertile and productive in wheat and other cereals, yielding a greater variety of fruits, far surpassing those of that State in quality as well as quantity.  Wheat is the great staple.  It is now all sown.  The farmers in this vicinity are somewhat anxious about this crop, owing to a deficiency of the usual rains, and if the wheat does not attain a certain growth before March, fears are entertained that the crop may prove a failure.  Potatoes are not successfully grown in this otherwise productive valley.  Their growth being so rank that they are fibrous and watery.  Though in the mountain valleys they are cultivated as well as in any country of the world, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The city is at present supplied by artesian wells, but the City Fathers contemplate procuring a good supply of soft water from a pure mountain stream in the neighborhood.  Windmills are the motive power employed for all purposes of irrigation.  To a stranger they form a quaint addition to the California landscape, as they pump the water for moistening and fertilizing hundreds of thousands of otherwise arid and useless acres.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The almond tree belongs to the peach family.  It is now in full bloom.  The flowers are very beautiful, possessing the delicate tints of the peach-blossom.  Almonds grown here are remarkably fine, and peanuts of a superior variety are abundantly produced.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Society in all newly settled countries is <HI REND="italics">muchly</HI>
091.sgm: mixed.  Almost every nation of the habitable earth has its representative.  While some are uncongenial, one yet meets with many frank, intelligent, hospitable people.  Let the Southern chivalry boast as much as they may of their vaunted hospitality, it is a mere sham in comparison to the warm, true-hearted kindness with which the Western people entertain the stranger and the sojourner among them.  As to dress, every mode is fashionable, the latest Paris styles not excepted.  <HI REND="italics">People dress just as they choose</HI>
091.sgm:, without attracting attention, though I must confess long swallow-tailed coats <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
091.sgm:<P>Californians have a pet earthquake theory.  They declare <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
091.sgm: earthquakes are not volcanic, but entirely atmospheric.  As thunder and lightning do not exist, they argue that the earthquake is an atmospherical method of purifying the air, and they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Apparently there is little fear of earthquakes, yet the buildings are constructed to guard against these phenomena.  They are built of wood, generally low, one story in height, and broad on the ground, surrounded with piazzas.  The best recommendation for a house is that it is "earthquake-proof."  There are many handsome blocks in San Jose.  The roads are hard, smooth and clean, rendering the drives most delightful.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>San Jose in June.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>The floral wealth of San Jose is, at this season, abundant beyond description.  Though climbing plants and several varieties of vines were green all winter, they are of a brighter hue now.  The few roses which gladdened us in January and February, are succeeded by a progeny as numerous as ever varying and beautiful.  Double purple violets, hidden beneath the dark green foliage, perfume the air; large gray pansies, fragrant carnations, myrtle blossoms, and the numerous varieties of bridal wreath and spirea, with drooping limbs studded with clusters of infinitessimal roses of snowy whiteness, greet one in every direction, producing feelings of gratitude to the Great Creator that He has thus beautified and adorned bounteous Mother Earth.  Oranges are not cultivated in this valley, though all fruits, such as peaches, apricots, almonds, etc., are grown in abundance with little labor.  The grapes are exceedingly heavy.  They are Fenian green now, and as the season advances they will receive darker hues until, like humanity, they become sear and yellow with age.  Wheat is the principal cereal, and is extensively cultivated, producing flour of a superfine quality.</P>
091.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The mountains, extending from east to west, form one unbroken chain, while the northern and southern horizon is bounded by hills and table-lands.  The mountains are covered with an emerald carpet, and the scrub oaks on their heights attest their sterility, while clear, silvery clouds crown their lofty peaks like a halo.  The table lands are luxuriant with grain fields and meadows, and the white farm house upon the distant hill, surrounded with its peach orchard, presents a lovely landscape to the beholder--a landscape of mountained hills, valley and table-land, sterility and fertility, like the characteristics of life.  Horrible tales of devouring lions and panthers are rehearsed to us, now and then, but as we have seen neither, we are inclined to think they are mythical.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Five newspapers are published here, two dailies and three weeklies.  All of them compare favorably, editorially and typographically with their Eastern compeers.  The public schools are graded, as in the States.  Their decipline, regarding both teachers and scholars is strict.  It is next to an impossibility for an incompetent or inefficient teacher to find employment.  I lately visited the primary department, and was surprised to find it so progressive and well conducted.  I never saw so great a number of children so universally well dressed, well behaved and well-deciplined.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>First Impressions of a California Earthquake.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>On the 17th of February, 1870, at noon-day, I experienced my first introduction to a shock of California earthquake.  I had been out enjoying my customary morning promenade, the weather being mild and balmy as usual, and the face of nature appeared <HI REND="italics">comme a l'ordinaire</HI>
091.sgm:.  On entering my room, as I was removing my bonnet and shawl, the building suddenly began to rock, and the blinds shook and swayed to and fro just like a steamer getting under way.  I caught hold of a table and steadied myself to regain my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:equilibrium, I for a moment imagined that I had just embarked at San Francisco, and had taken passage for the Sandwich Islands.  Another moments reflection, however, gave me to understand that instead of being on the "briny deep," I was upon terra firma, and that the rocking sensation was my first introduction, in California vulgnie, to a "Quake."  Scarcely had I regained my situation, ere the rocking and trembling ceased, and, strange to say, I was not in the least armed; and going towards the hall, I met my next door neighbor with a composed smile, as if "Quakes" were already familiar things.  She was greatly frightened, and regarding my composure as forced, remarked, " <HI REND="italics">They who know nothing, fear nothing</HI>
091.sgm:<P>Occupying the second story of a fine building my first impulse after the shake was over, was to look about for damages.  In my room the plastered walls were somewhat crushed, and that was all.  Going to the window to see what the people in the streets were doing, I observed that no one appeared disturbed, though the windows on the opposite side of the street were filled with eager and anxious faces, looking in the same direction, probably for the same purpose.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The greatest and only real danger resulting from these phenomena is caused by crowds of people rushing hurriedly into the streets, and being hurt by falling chimneys and other missiles.  I am told that all loss of life on the Pacific Coast has resulted from fearful stampedes of children from the public schools, or crowds of people tumbling and trampling and jostling each other in the first moments of alarm.</P>
091.sgm:<P>If, as Lolland says, "All common good has common price," the price of living in this country, as far as my experience goes, is rather the <HI REND="italics">fear</HI>
091.sgm: than the <HI REND="italics">result</HI>
091.sgm:<P>In a former letter I spoke of windmills.  They are a most interesting and pleasant institution of this country, and as reliable as sunrise and sunset.  The winds blow with great regularity every day, from the south in winter, and from the north in summer.  Thus, windmills are a never-falling source of irrigation.  It is a pleasing sight to view their giant arms tossed about by balmy breezes, doing a giant's work, pumping the water into troughs, which is then guided by hose in every required direction.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The weather during this month has been most charming, mild and spring-like, with only one wintry day, and that a very pleasant one to a Chicagoan.</P>
091.sgm:<P>A regular live Woman Suffrage Association is organized here, and is in good running and working order.  Though women by no means yet enjoy equal rights they hope to do so by-and-by.</P>
091.sgm:<P>A lady applied for a vacant postoffice clerkship, but was told that she could not serve Uncle Sam in that capacity, for she was not a citizen.  When she replied that as she was born in the United States, she would really like to be informed <HI REND="italics">whose</HI>
091.sgm: citizen she was if not Uncle Sam's, the laughing rejoinder came, "Well, well, you're a non-voting citizen, and it don't <HI REND="italics">pay</HI>
091.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Another lady, a teacher, eminently qualified, and endorsed by many influential citizens, applied for the position of school superintendent.  The position was almost awarded to her, when, lo! the reigning powers pronounced her inelligible, because she was a "non-voting citizen."</P>
091.sgm:<P>Non-voting citizens are permitted to pay taxes, to give birth to and rear voters, aided or unaided, as the case may be; to wash, to sew, to teach and to scrub; to be tried by a jury of voting citizens, to be imprisoned, and to be responsible as voting citizens in every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>But the night is far spent and the day dawn is near at hand, for there is one blessed editor here, in San Jose, who issues no number of his paper without saying a good word for the cause of right, and a growing change in public opinion is advancing daily.  God bless him and all others who battle in the cause of Equal Rights!</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Santa Clara.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>This old Spanish town is so near San Jose that it may be properly called one of its environs.  Though a western spirit of progress is here and there visible, animating the natural indolence of her inhabitants, the old, unprogressive Spanish element, with its adherence to and veneration for all that has been and is, is as yet the prevailing, one might say the dominant one.  Her climate is semi-tropical, and owing to the near proximity of the Pacific, is subject to the bracing ocean breezes, which in a measure counteract the debility consequent upon all warm climates, and though therefore very mild and agreeable, fails to produce that stimulating oxygen so necessary to persons who were born and reared in more northerly latitudes.  All the productions indiginous to the temperate zones, and almost all those of the tropics, flourish luxuriantly; so that owing to her genial climate, the fertility of her soil, and the characteristics of her earliest settlers, Santa Clara, notwithstanding Yankee immigration, hovers between effete conservatism and living progression, stupidity and activity, dullness and energy.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Among those institutions which attract the attention of the stranger and tourist is her Monastery, or so-called Catholic College for boys and young men--a very extensive and imposing structure, modeled after the Doric and Corinthian style of architecture.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>A great amount of wealth is invested in this institution, which was founded twenty years since.  From all that we could see and learn, it is not equal to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Silk Culture.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>The importance of this industrial resource is constantly augmenting, and already adds largely to the wealth of those who pursue it.  Owing to the want of capital, proper machinery and management, the manufacture of silk in this State, is not as yet a complete success, but all the eggs of the silk worm which can be produced find a ready market at four dollars an ounce to the Italians and French; and even the European war has not in the least affected their sale.  The eggs of the California silk worm are said to be perfectly reliable and sure to produce worms.  The dry climate is the best in the world for the silk worm, and the mulberry trees flourish like natives of the soil.  It is death to the worms to feed them upon wet leaves.  There are no extensive cocooneries in this vicinity; like tea plantations, they are more successful when managed upon a small scale, and by a few individuals who understand the business.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The wine interest of Southern California is immense.  It is estimated that the State contains 40,000,000 vines which annually yield 40,000,000 gallons of wine, and thousands of new vines are being yearly planted.  These statistics are discouraging to the advocates of temperance, but they are nevertheless a fact.  The red and white wines of Napa and Sonoma counties, have a fine flavor, and the grapes are less liable to rust and milldew than those of the wine districts of the Rhine or Spain, and are mostly exported.  Their yield during the past season is estimated at 1,000,000 gallons, which will sell for half a million of dollars.  The price of all the native wines of the State has advanced from 15 to 20 cts per gallon within the past two months; probably the war has aided in this advance, but be that as it may, wine culture <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Lecturers from the East do not now reap the golden harvest which they did a few years since in California.  People are weary of this species of entertaining instruction, and complain of the high prices demanded by lecturers.  Though these are but half what they were a few years since, when one dollar per ticket was not thought unreasonable, yet now it is seldom that an audience can be obtained at fifty cents per ticket.  The fact of the matter is, the great mass of mankind perfer amusement to instruction, and in order to make lectures financially successful, the latter must become subservient to the former.  Or those lecturers who desire to instruct and elevate, must themselves learn a lesson in self abnigation and charge less for their services.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Mrs. Tracy Cutler has lectured in this portion of California during the past winter on Woman suffrage, and has been well received.  She is a fine, fluent and argumentative speaker, and an able champion of the cause which she advocates.  The disciples of the Woman's Suffrage Cause, whether right or wrong, are thoroughly in earnest.  Whatever may be said for or against the movement, it certainly is not a dead issue, but alive, active and in a state of progression.  Woman suffrage picnics, woman suffrage balls, woman suffrage mass meetings are the order of the day.  Most of the members of suffrage associations carry the constitution of their society with them wherever they go, and obtain all the signers to it they possibly can, and others are so thoroughly radical that they pledge themselves to give all their social influence and financial support to the friends of the cause, and to use it against its opponents.  Many of the best men and women, and the most advanced thinkers of the State are engaged in the movement and are confident of its ultimate success.</P>
091.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Over the Mountains to Santa Cruz.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Leaving San Jose southwestward for Santa Cruz, we make our transit by means of an old-fashioned conservative stage-coach, which, when one is not in a hurry, and the weather is dry, mild and balmy, and road diversified by hill and valley, mountains and streams, is a very agreeable way of travel.  This valley is one of the most fertile in California, and unsurpassed in picturesque scenery, with the exception of the Yosemite.  Now, in the full meridian of Spring.  Nature has assumed her most attractive garb.  The wheat fields of the valleys and foothills give promise of a fair harvest, though not as abundant as that of the preceding year, while the foliage of the hills and mountains is yet fresh and green, and brilliant-hued wild flowers dot the level fields.  Indeed, every variety of scenery greets the tourist's eye.  The fertile foothills furnish pasturage for immense herds of cattle, sheep and goats; the undulating slopes of the hills are covered with brush and small timber; and then the mountain pass, with its deep ravines, its yawning precipices and gigantic trees, which, while it inspires the soul with the granduer of the mighty works of the Great Creator, also produces the painful effect of fear upon the nerves of the timid traveler.  The mountain gorges are often five hundred feet in depth, while projecting rocks, with mammoth trees growing from them, and bending over the precipice, as if about to fall, meet one at every turn of a curve.  Now and then we pass over a plateau of table-land in a very high state of cultivation.  The air ascending the mountains is bracing and delightfully fragrant with the perfume of wild flowers and new-cut hay.</P>
091.sgm:<P>A short distance from San Jose two hospitable old bachelor brothers are engaged in the cultivation of grapes, pears, peaches and several varieties of small fruits.  Their grounds are beautifully and regularly laid out with walks and drives, planted with shade <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:trees and shrubbery, and adorned with a wealth of flowers, while vine-clad arbours and rustic seats beneath umbrageous trees invite weary mortals to repose.  All was kept with the order of a well-regulated park and the neatness of an old maid's bureau drawers.  Our hosts were charmingly agreeable, and did not in the least wear the orthodox forlorn appearance usually imputed to old bachelors.  Neither did they express contempt for the feminine element, but were ardent advocates of woman suffrage and her highest education and elevation.  Like all celebites of either sex, except Catholic priests and nuns, they cherished the ultimate hope of a happy life partnership.  As we bade our hospitable friends farewell, we earnestly wished and devoutedly prayed that Heaven might send them two loving, congenial spirits, and that, united, they might become, as Parthenia expressed herself, like <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Two souls with but a single thought,<LB> Two hearts that beat as one."<LB></HI>
091.sgm:<P>The mountain stage-drivers are peculiar characters, and deserve a passing notice.  They are very veterans of their occupation, having driven for years on the same route.  In California vulgate, they never get <HI REND="italics">foggy</HI>
091.sgm:; which means that they are temperate--a great and an unusual recommendation in this country.  They are very trusty, possessing an accurate knowledge of every step of the hazardous way, and know something of interest about every spot.  No smoking is allowed inside or outside of the stage, so that ladies can ride on the outside if they choose, and obtain a perfect view of the natural scenery--a privilege of which many avail themselves.  The stages are drawn by six horses, which are relieved every ten miles.  The mountain ascent is very laborious and is slowly made, but the descent is rapid.  Two opposition lines of coaches are running between San Jose and Santa Cruz, and the price for the passage has been reduced from three dollars to one dollar, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The mountain streams are well filled with trout.  Fishing parties are quite the fashion in the vicinity of the trout streams--we ladies taking particular delight in following this indolently pleasurable pursuit of Isaac Walton.  And as we return with long strings well filled with the speckled shiners, and enjoy the delicious repast they afford, we feel well repaid for sport by which we captured these delicious specimens of the finny tribe.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Midway between San Jose and Santa Cruz there is a place of entertainment for man and beast, kept like the old-fashioned country taverns of the East.  Here, while we sumptuously fared, we were forcibly reminded of Yankee Land.  Reminiscences of home are ever pleasurable to the sojourner in a strange land, particularly when they appear in the form of a well cooked dinner, with the addition of a plate of well-browned trout.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The descriptions by travelers of the mammoth trees of California are no exaggerations.  The weeping willow grows to such an immense circumference that one can drive a span of horses and wagon beneath the shade of its gracefully drooping branches.  The redwood trees attain such a gigantic size that our tallest oaks are mere pigmies in comparison, and the fir trees grow as straight as reeds and so very tall that one would suppose they intended to find their level with the highest mountain tops.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The City of Santa Cruz, or Holy Cross, is delightfully situated upon the sea, at a distance of half a mile from the bay of Monterey, and thirty-five miles southwest of San Jose.  It has 3,000 inhabitants.  It is quite a place of resort, as it possesses a fine beach.  Its bathing facilities are hardly equal to those of Newport.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Its streets are fine and cleanly, and its hotels commodious.  Its stores are very countrified, dealing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The editors of this city of the Holy Cross are a very belligerent set, and resort to fists instead of pen and ink to settle their difficulties.  Whether this is owing to the productiveness of the grape, or the general climate, we are unable to tell, but certain it is, that a little "unpleasantness" has resulted in their temporary disfiguration greatly to the injnry of their individual good looks, providing that pen and ink are the proper weapons of offense and defense for the editorial fraternity, and are mightier than fists.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The flowing wells are a great curiosity.  They are bored like artesian wells, often two hundred feet deep, and the water gushes and boils up and runs over, yielding an abundant and constant supply.</P>
091.sgm:<P>California's greatest necessity is a foreign market.  She possesses facilities for supplying the whole Union with fruits and vegetables, but the present rates of transportation are so great that the producer loses all his profits before his productions reach the market.  Each distinctive feature of farming is carried on as a separate business here.  One man devotes his entire time and means to the culture of grain, another to that of vegetables, a third cultivates grapes, a fourth fruits, and a fifth cattle, etc.  Owing to the necessity of irrigation and the variety of soil and climate this becomes a necessity, and when a failure occurs it becomes a very disastrous one.  It is an easy matter to make a livelihood in California, but as difficult to amass a fortune as in other countries.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Great apprehensions of a drought are felt in this region.  Very little rain has fallen during the winter, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June Weather and Trade Winds.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Our June weather has been very warm during the day, but the heat is greatly mitigated towards its close by the trade winds, which never fail to blow regularly from the north every afternoon, and render our evenings and nights very cool and enjoyable.  One can always sleep well in this climate, a blessing which nervous patients who have suffered from the want of weary nature's sweet restorer can fully appreciate.  Linens, lawns, muslins, organdies, and in fact summer clothing of any description can only be worn during the middle of the day.  As soon as the trade winds arise the atmosphere becomes so cool that heavy clothing, like broadcloths, merinos, even furs, are not only comfortable but necessary to prevent taking cold.  The cool evenings and nights, and the good healthful sleep, are so refreshing that the heat of noon-day does not produce the debility of other warm climates.  In this respect the Pacific Coast has greatly the advantage over the central and south Atlantic Coast.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Cereal crops have been greatly injured by the drought, so much so, that in some localities they will not pay for the labor of harvesting.  In the more southerly counties the herbage is literally burned by heat and drought, and herds of cattle are perishing for want of food and water.  These are mostly Spanish cattle, which are of a small and inferior breed, and our progressionists say the country will be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Grapes are growing finely; the clusters are round and full, and give promise of an abundant harvest.  Their roots strike so deep into the earth that the drought does not affect them; in fact, dry weather is beneficial to grapes, rendering them sweeter and more free from rust aud mildew.  Raisins of excellent flavor and superior quality are extensively produced, and our Los Angeles oranges are far sweeter, larger and more juicy than those of Florida, Cuba or Sicily.  We suffer much from dust, though perhaps no more so than in other localities where no rain has fallen for a long period of time.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Our flowing wells have proved as great a blessing to us as the water which gushed from the desert rock was to the thirsty Israelites.  They continue to gush and bubble and give forth their inestimable wealth of fresh, sweet, pure water in abundance, without a thought of the drought whose disastrous effects are so manifest to those who are deprived of them.  Little pools of water collect about the wells, which the feathered tribe scent from afar, and they come hither in myriads to wet their thirsty little beaks and bathe and flap their wings in the limpid stream.  And then they perch themselves among the boughs of our shade trees and pour forth thgir songs of thanksgiving, to which it is most pleasurable to listen.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Our aboriginal settlers were either Spanish or French, and these have become so mixed with the native Indian element that it is difficult to trace distinct types of either nationality.  They are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:uneducated, particularly the women, and <HI REND="italics">their ignorance</HI>
091.sgm: reacts on all.  They speak no language correctly or purely, but a jargon of all.  The tourist who remarked that upon inquiring the nationality of a lady and receiving the reply, " <HI REND="italics">Me no mucho Francaise, Englise, you bet</HI>
091.sgm:<P>The religion of the old Californians Lord Macauley terms, "that fascinating superstition, which shall nevertheless, be the prevailing faith when the tourist shall sketch the ruins of Westminster Abby from a broken arch of London Bridge."  Should this prophecy prove true of London it will never apply to California, for progressive ideas are storming the battlements of ancient prejudices and superstitions, and even the Catholic church cannot restrain the onward march.  The French do not permit their religious scruples to interfere with their sociability or their neighborly kindness; but it is different with the Spaniards, who are ultra High Church, believe none can obtain an immortal Elysium <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The Chinese question is an all important topic of discussion with us, eliciting much argument, pro and con.  The Chinamen are quiet and inoffensive, temperate and industrious, ingenious and imitative.  They learn to read and write our language rapidly; their dress is neat, consisting of bifurcates, with a blue cotton tunic or sort of shirt, stiffly starched and smoothly ironed, a funny cloth shoe with a cork sole an inch thick, and a hat.  They labor cheaply at whatever their hands find to do, and so far so good.  The objections to them are:</P>
091.sgm:<P>1st.  That self-preservation, which is the first law of nature, viz: that no Caucassian can advantageously compete with them, for a stewed mouse and a handful of rice per day will board a Chinaman, and a white man requires something more expensive, substantial and appetizing.</P>
091.sgm:<P>2d.  They hoard all their earnings, investing very little in clothing, living or real estate.  All this capital is shipped to China, whither, living or dead, the Chinaman returns.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Our two greatest drawbacks are our land monopolies and our great want of a foreign market.  The farmers are buying up and holding thousands of acres of our most valuable public lands, and holding them so high that poor men cannot purchase cheap homes; these speculators keep the country from improving as fast as it would if the poor man were not thus fettered.  The claim of Hutchings &amp; Lamon to the Yosemite Valley was defeated at the last session of the Legislature, the State thereby reserving this wonder of nature in its pristine charms, and making it impossible for any land monopolist to control it and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Summer Climate in San Jose.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Our summer climate here in California has been extremely hot and dry during the past season; but one little shower of rain fell in the latter part of July, and though the ocean breezes cooled the atmosphere at the close of day and at night, and were somewhat refreshing, they failed to alleviate the weariness and lassitude caused by the day's heat, or to cure the desire to postpone all physical and mental labor till the morrow, and when the morrow came to postpone it until cooler weather.  The oldest settlers aver that the past summer has been an unusually hot one, and though that may be, still the climate of our "heated term" loses its usual brain and muscle stimulating properties, unless it be that what is brain stimulating is also brain trying, and that the system, when reaction occurs, is left in a more debilitated condition than if the stimulant had not been employed.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the drought, our crops were abundant; though the yield of wheat was not as great as in the season of '69, it is all sufficient and much greater than was expected.  California farmers expect a dry season occasionally, and are therefore so well prepared for it that they do not suffer from its effects as they did years ago, before they understood the climatic changes of this coast.  The grain which failed to head well where the means of irrigation were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Threshing grain is carried on as extensively and expeditiously as everything else in this country.  Several threshing machines, accompanied by the usual number of operatives or "hands" surround the mammoth grain stacks and commence work, resting only long enough to " <HI REND="italics">take in food</HI>
091.sgm:<P>Grasses become sere and dry in midsummer, one might say almost, from the effects of heat, and he who does not understand the order of things in this climate would pronounce them burnt and worthless; nevertheless, cattle eat, live and thrive upon them, growing fat and slick as the season advances.  Some species of California grasses produce small burrs, which fall upon and cover the ground when ripe.  These are very nutritive for cattle, and are eaten with avidity by them.</P>
091.sgm:<P>We enjoyed summer fruits of almost every variety and climate.  Cherries, plums, apricots, peaches, almonds and oranges.  The latter, though not as abundantly produced as at Los Angeles, are large and sweet.  Berries of every variety abound in their season.  Elderberries are as large as good sized peas, and covered with a white mist, giving them the appearance of sugar-coated pills.  Grapes are plentiful, large, sweet and luscious, some of the clusters almost equaling in size and plumpness, the pictured representations of those famous bunches found in the Promised Land by the spies of the Children of Israel, which were wont to make our mouth water in early childhood, as we beheld them suspended from a pole and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the great productiveness of this country, and the skilled ingenuity which her inhabitants bring to bear against climatic disadvantages, we have many serious drawbacks for which as yet no remedy has been found.  Not the least of these is the damage done to crops by squirrels and gophers.  All efforts to exterminate these destructive little creatures have thus far been unsuccessful.  The injury which they inflict upon fruits and grain is incalculable, and generally the richest districts are those most infected by their depredations.  Liberal offers have been made for the discovery of some plan by which these pests can be annihilated, but nothing more afficacious than poison or cold has been discovered, and squirrels multiply so rapidly that even these are of little avail.  It is estimated that sixty thousand squirrels have been killed in Contra Costa county since the 1st of January, and yet they seem thick as ever.  At the last session of the Legislature an act was passed to encourage the destruction of squirrels and gophers in certain localities, and to provide a bounty for the same, by authorizing the levy of a special tax which shall constitute a Bounty Fund.  Whosoever kills a squirrel is entitled to five cents for the scalp and ten then cents for a gopher.  A citizen of San Jose realized $120 from squirrel scalps in a short time, yet they scamper over fields and orchards as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Though abundant harvests crown the labors of the husbandmen, and fruits, grain, vegetables and all things edible are plentiful and cheap, there is less material prosperity than one might expect in so productive a country.  Complaints of hard times are general among miners, mechanics, laborers and business men.  Why this is so, the students of social science have not yet told us.  Mining is particularly dull in this vicinity.  The Guadaloupe Quicksilver mines, which were prosperous eight years ago, furnishing employment to 3,000 people, are now deserted, their costly smelting furnaces in ruins, and their wonderful shafts left to decay--presenting a picture of desolation, where activity and enterprise once reigned.  The cause for this is, that precious minerals are no longer sufficiently abundant to reward the capitalist and laborer.  Bold robberies and fearful murders occur frequently among us, and it is seldom that the perpetrators are brought to justice, for they flee to the woods and mountains and hide there, so that it is almost impossible for the law to take its course and punish them as the deserve.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>San Francisco</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>.</P>
091.sgm:<P>San Francisco, to a stranger from the Prairie Land, accustomed to the level, monotonous scenery of home, is most delightfully situated.  Portions of the city being built upon picturesque hills, which, like those of St. Paul, Minnesota, have not been graded down to make level streets, but left in their natural beauty, present an undulating and pleasing prospect to an admirer of varid scenery.  These elevations afford excellent views of the city, the Bay crowded with shipping, and the Golden Gate, with its open welcome to the sea.  The churches have fewer and less <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>As for the autumn climate of this city, whatever it may be at other seasons, it is anything but salubrious or agreeable to pulmonary or bronchial invalids, and the sooner they make their exit from San Francisco, the better for coughs and colds.  Fogs are frequent and very heavy, and have an inflammatory effect upon throat and lungs, eyes and nose.  The climate of San Francisco, according to the testimony of their meteorologists, is unlike that of any other city in the world.  It has essentially two climates, and there is constantly a conflict between the land and sea temperature for supremacy.  The ocean breeze partakes of the temperature of the Pacific, which is about 53 degrees Fahrenheit the whole year.  From the Coast Range of mountains, near the Golden Gate, there is a current of cool, damp air, of the same temperature as the ocean, laden with misty clouds, which linger near the base of the hills and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>But the face of Nature here during the last days of November is exceedingly charming.  Scarcely a more beautiful sight can be imagined than the sudden cheerful change presented by the surrounding hills after the first showers.  These hills are treeless, and their sharp peaks and deep gullied sides are covered with a carpet of deep velvety green, which is their winters garb.  Plants and flowers flourish finely in the open air, as no irrigation is now needed to keep them in full growth and bloom.  Ornamental plants grow to a size unknown in Eastern cities.  The cactus variety attain a gigantic size, while the fuschias are ten or twelve feet in height, and bloom profusely throughout the entire winter in the open air.  Geraniums of every variety, heliotropes, oleanders--in fact all our Eastern house plants find their native and congenial climate here.</P>
091.sgm:<P>San Francisco prossesses numerous fine public buildings.  Among these is the Orphan Asylum, which looms up from one of her hills an ancient feudal castle, its substantial stone walls being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Business is generally dull, and will continue so, while specie is the only currency in use.  California requires a paper currency before her national prosperity will equal that of the Atlantic and other Western States.  The liquor traffic is here as with the whole nation the most money-making pursuit, and whisky and stimulating and intoxicating beverages of every description are the curse of this coast.  Bleared eyes, red noses, foul breaths and all the train of physical and mental evils which follow the daily use of alcoholic beverages, are everywhere apparent.  The native born children have a fine physical development, and were it not for the inheritance of intemperance, might in a few generations attain mankind's primitive perfection in health and longevity.</P>
091.sgm:<P>San Francisco possesses many valuable manufactories.  The manufacture of silver plate of chaste and elaborate designs and excellent quality is largely carried on; woolen blankets, of soft, fleecy texture, and shawls, gloves and hose are produced in such abundance as to supply the entire home market.  There is great jealousy of eastern manufacturers who send their productions here to find a market, and many consider the Pacific Railroad as a detriment, since foreign manufactures now compete with and destroy the profits of home industry in a greater degree, than when commerce was entirely carried on by water.  Silk culture is becoming constantly more developed and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Vernal Season on the Pacific Coast.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>To Northern and Eastern sojourners the vernal season here, in the metropolis of the Pacific Coast, is already so far advanced that spring appears lost in the gorgeous bloom of mid-summer.  The reign of flowers is fully upon us and many of the earlier varieties of annual roses have passed their season and are covering the ground with their faded leaves, while the later varieties and the perpetual bloomers perfume the air and beautify the landscape.  Boquets composed of all the more hardy roses, camelias and japonicas. intermingled with fuschias and less choice flowers, are abundant and decorate our stores, churches and homes.  Oranges and the fruits of the season are coming into market too, as well as an endless variety of vegetables.  The Chinese are very successful in the cultivation of the latter as in all manner of horticultural and agricultural productions.  They possess the faculty of making a few acres yield as much as an American would yield from three times the quantity of land.  Every inch of ground is cultivated, and their economy and parsimony is beyond everything.  It is positively demoralizing to humanity to see them reduce themselves to a level with the brute creation and perform the ordinary labor of mules or horses or other beasts of burden, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>Upon the long flats extending along the Oakland and Alameda shores, the Chinamen have extensive fisheries and when they cast their nets, amid the shoals of smelt and herring which abound here at high water, they capture myriads of these shiners with the same facility and ease and success which appears to crown all their efforts.  When their boats are filled with glittering heaps of fishes, then begins the work of cleaning, drying and packing; while so engaged, the Chinaman lightens his toil by a low, guttural song, which evidently cheers him and fills his soul with pleasing dreams of his flowery home, though to Christian ears, the noise he makes is not only devoid of melody, but perfectly heathenish.  In the mines the Chinese work steadily and faithfully, and where this industry is extensively carried on, they are more reliable than miners of European nationality.  They have many curious ceremonies and religious rites.  Although all those who have the means are buried in the land of their nativity, many die here who are too poor or have no friends to send their remains thither.  They have a burial place provided for them in San Francisco, to which all orthodox Chinamen make a semi-annual piligrimage, for the purpose of placing rice and other provisions upon the graves of those of their countrymen who are forced to sleep their last sleep in the land of the barbarians.  They then bless or charm numerous pieces of paper, tear these into small bits, and scatter them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>Manufactures are being constantly encouraged and developed in San Francisco.  Blankets and woolen cloths are woven here, which cannot be excelled in any portion of the world.  The manufacture of silk is not yet in a flourishing condition, owing to want of capital, and to the great demand for cocoons for exportation.  Several glove factories are prosperous, and promise to supply not only the home market, but portions of South America, the Pacific Coast States <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>San Francisco is a city that awakens the sympathy of the philanthropist and humanitarian more fully than any other of its size and natural advantages.  The constant influx of strangers, from all quarters of the earth, and the numberless disappointed ones who came hither with golden dreams, which have never been realized, and the commingling of many inconguous elements, the dearth of labor and the distress consequent thereon, all touch the sympathetic heart.  Earnest workers are attempting in various ways to do good and aid the unfortunate, but thus far all that has been done, is but to sow the seed, trusting hereafter to reap the harvest.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Gilroy in March</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>.</P>
091.sgm:<P>This little town is the present terminus of the South Pacific Railroad, and in its rapid growth resembles all the young railroad towns of newly settled countries.  Like its northern sister, Young Deluth, it was not in existence three years since, its present site being at that time, one uninhabitable wilderness, while now its population numbers two thousand.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>California develops precocious growth in all things, vegetables, fruits, trees, children and cities.  This rrpid growth exhausts vitality and leads to early decay and often premature death.  Something of this is apparent in Gilroy, whose sudden rise and progress seem to have arrived at a stand-still point.  Business is very dull, and the tastefully arranged stores, whose counters display to the best advantage every variety of useful and ornamental wares, are lonely and deserted, evincing the want of the one thing needful to render trade active, viz, money.  Capacious stores, whose thick venetion shades close out the cheerful light of our bright skies, attract many customers; and looking at the signs above their doors we read, "Sample rooms," and the nature of the samples sold there is made manifest to the stranger by the red noses and bleared eyes of the numerous customers who patronize these "sample rooms," which, like all the drinking saloons of California and the entire West, do a flourishing business, and in a measure account for much of the depression evident in the useful and happier vocations of life, since they lure their patrons to temptation and ruin, and unfit them for every good and noble purpose.</P>
091.sgm:<P>It is very pleasurable to turn from these well patronized whisky shops and their degenerate patrons, to the lovely natural surroundingsof this town.  Ranges of majestic hills raise their misty summits from all points of the compass, encircling it like a beautiful verdure-crowned fortification of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>This vicinity is largely settled by people from the South Atlantic and Gulf States with an intermixture of a "right smart sprinkling" of enterprising Yankees, and consequently the appearance of Gilroy is more pleasing and progressive than that of the neighboring Spanish towns.  The Yankee element, like the English language, having absorbedall others until the individual identity of each is lost, the good and evil of both, like tares and wheat, continue to grow together.  Thus an enterprising weekly newspaper is published here, and churches and rooster fights are both well patronized on Sunday, and schools and drinking saloons on week days, and vice and immorality, as in older communities, rear their destroying heads amid virtue and purity.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The climate is very fine, never extremely warm or severely cold, with a dry bracing air, clear sunny skies and invigorating sea and mountain breezes.</P>
091.sgm:<P>From present appearances, crops of fruit, grain, grasses and vegetables promise an abundant harvest, so that notwithstanding the general business depression, which is so severely felt here at present, there is no danger of starvation, and with the beautiful semitropical climate and the few necessities of mankind, people can live pleasantly and happily, since there is less strife in making haste to get rich, than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Petaluma</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The whole area of territory comprised in Sonoma county is greatly influenced in climate, productions, etc., by its contiguity to the ocean, a considerable portion of it forming the boundary coast line.  Dense and heavy fogs arise from the sea every morning, creating a dampness and a dew which admirably supply the place of rain, and serve at once to irrigate and fertilize the soil, preventing those parching droughts so destructive to crops, and so discouraging to agriculturalists in more inland portions of the State.  Consequently the harvests of such cereals and fruits as are acceptable to climate and soil are always reliable.  The nights and mornings are too cool for the rapid growth required in the successful culture of corn, preventing its development and maturiry, though the soil around the foot-hills is as fertile as in Illinois and the more central States of the Union.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The summer and early autumn fruits yield so abundantly, that trees break and split beneath the burden of their delicious harvests.  Peaches and plums of many varieties are exceedingly plentiful, and in flavor and quality are unexcelled in any quarter of the world.  Apples become wrinkled and tasteless after being gathered a short time.  They are largely imported from the Southern counties of Oregon, where they grow and mature finely.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Petaluma, sixteen miles southward among the mountains lies contiguous with a shallow stream or rather arm of the ocean, of sufficient depth when the tide is in, to be navigable for vessels carrying from sixty to one hundred tons burden.  It is a quiet, orderly little place, with fewer whisky shops than the towns and villages in its neighborhood.  Most of the early Spanise settlers have sold out and emigrated to Mexico, and other congenial localities, and a different <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>The climate is cool and invigorating, and the dampness of the fogs is not unsalubrious, its effects being the same as in England, and its people greatly resemble those of that island in color, complexion and form.  An old adobe house, formerly the home of an ancient Spanish governor, is quite a curiosity.  It was built anterior to the ceding of California to the Union, and has been used as a fort in the Indian wars.  Now it is a peaceable, dirty farm house; the cows are milked within its courtyard, and poultry roost upon its verandahs, while the pigs are fed from troughs beneath, and their owners live within its thick mud walls, all dwelling together in peace, like the happy family of a museum.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Santa Rosa</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The capital of Sonoma county is situated on Santa Rosa Creek, an arm of the Russian river, and is reached by rail from Petaluma, sixteen miles southward.  Its population is two thousand, very similar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Saloons are as numerous and superabundant as in every city, town and village throughout the length and breadth of the country.  Santa Rosa is extremely dusty, as it is the only town of its size in the State whose streets are not sprinkled, and in consequence of the long dry season, the dust is over a foot in depth and almost unendurable; trees and foliage have a dull ash gray hue, and when the winds blows, its clouds remind one of the dry sands of Sahara and are nearly as suffocating.  One newspaper is published here, which, though Democratic in politics, is progressive and liberal upon all the great questions of the day, too much so, when compared with the mental status of its home readers.  The wheat crop in this immediate vicinity has been very heavy, and pecuniary prospects are expected to brighten, and business to be lively, "when wheat begins to move," as they say here.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Healdsburg</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>,</P>
091.sgm:<P>Is a beautifully located little town on the Russian River, in the central portion of Sonoma county.  It is nestled amid the mountains, and its ocean breezes render its climate pleasant and very salubrious, It numbers about one thousand inhabitants, and is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:connected by a railroad with Santa Rosa, the county seat of Sonoma county.  The lands in its vicinity are generally fertile, and are famed for producing the best potatoes in California.  Though saline lands of a gentle nature are found now and then, their stony, glassy substances have no poisonous or destructive effects upon the poultry who feed upon them, as in other portions of the State.  Small cereals yield largely, and even mature in protected localities. The water of the mountain springs is deliciously cool, soft and clear, and Mother Nature has bountifully endowed the regions in the vicinity, far and near.  The character of much of the population is a serious drawback to progressive growth.  It is principally composed of emigrants from Missouri and the Southwestern States, who are not particularly enlightened according to the ideas of Eastern progressionists.  They make it their boast that they "don't car to read nothin' no how;" are disgusted with common schools and railroads, and "stuck-up Northerners," and speak of "selling off" and "clarin' out" to "new diggins" in some unexplored wilderness where the Yankee is not, and where they can end their conservative lives without being tormented by the progressive institution of Yankeedom.  Twenty-four miles from Healdsburg are located the Geysers or wonderful California hot springs.  In a tract of land embracing about one square mile, many of these springs are found, boiling and bubbling up from the bosom of mother earth, antidotes for numerous diseases and ailments which afflict her children.  From some of these, pure soda may be obtained, and others are greatly impregnated with sulphur, epsom salts, copperas, salt and iron.  They are becoming quite a resort, and have been visited during the past summer by tourists and invalids from the States and other portions of California.  Their curative powers for rheumatism, and particularly dyspepsia, are really remarkable.  Cases of the latter of twenty years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Los Angeles.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Los Augeles, owing to its inland situation, presents an aspect of isolation to the tourist who visits it for the first time.  It is located 20 miles from San Pedro Bay, an inlet of the Pacific, with which it is connected by a railroad, which is the only one in the State, at present, south of Santa Clara county.  The coast range of mountains, in proximity to the Pacific extends through the entire length of Los Angeles county in a northwestern and southeastern direction.  The city itself, is situated in an arid, alkaline valley, clothed with a very scarcc vegetation between it and San Pedro Bay, which is the case with the exception of small fertile tracts, in the entire surrounding country.</P>
091.sgm:<P>This portion of Southern California corresponds in climate to that of the south shore of Europe from the Bosphorus to Gibralter.  In clearness of sky, and in mildness, equality of temperature it is said to surpass the climate of the Italian and Spanish coasts, and those whose heaven is always farther west, ever beyond the pale of advanced civilization, pronounce it much more attractive.  The mountain summits are covered with snow, consequently the wind currents which blow from them are cold, mitigating the natural tropical heat.  The influence of the trade winds, inland from the ocean, though they increase the heat of summer and the cold of winter, are obviated by the regular sea breezes which make the winters warmer and the summers cooler.  These varied natural causes produce a really magnificent climate which may truly be compared to a constant and beautiful spring.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding that large tracts of country are of an alkaline nature, wholly barren, presenting a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Orange culture is a leading branch of industry.  The trees flourish in the open air like common orchard trees of the north, and the fruit ripens from December to May, at a time when there are few oranges from the Haiwaiian or adjacent islands in the Californi markets.  Healthy trees in full bearing produce one thousand or more oranges a year, whose marketable value is estimated at from two to five dollars per hundred.  The trees do not come to full maturity before they are ten years old, and will not thrive in arid soil without irrigation.  There are many orange nurseries in this vicinity where hundreds of thousands of young trees are sown and then grafted before being transplanted into orchards.  The orange tree is not as hardy as is generally supposed, at least not in this country, where it is not indigenous but imported, though with careful culture it is becoming acclimated.  Many perish in transplanting, and in the nurseries they are subject to the attacks of gophers, which destroy them, and a bug called the orange aphis which injures the leaves rendering the trees barren and causing them to perish.  No method of killing this insect, or averting its destroying ravages has as yet been discovered, like the cut worm of northern climes, it comes, commits its work of devastation and then disappears without any known cause.  The Los Angeles oranges are large, sweet and luscious, excelling the Florida and Sicily oranges in flavor and juciness.  Their rind is thicker and less smooth.  Lemons, sweet and sour limes flourish and produce abundantly.  Their culture is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Next to orange culture, the cultivation of the grape is the leading agricultural industry of Los Angeles county.  The production of wines and brandies amounts to thousands of gallons, and great quantities of fresh grapes are used in home consumption and for exportation.  The Tokay and Muscat wines are produced superior to those in Europe, while Port, Burgundy, Hock, Claret and Champagne are said to be (by epicurian drinkers,) equal to the best vintages of France and the Rhine valley.  The Malaga grape yields large, fine raisins, which command a ready market and remunerative prices.  The fig tree thrives and yields abundantly in those situations which are on a level with the sea and exempt from the keen ocean breezes.  Dates, palms, olives, English walnuts, almonds and peanuts thrive with little care and well repay the laborer for their cultivation.  North of this city the country is unsettled and uncultivated, and where alkali lands do not exist, is well adapted to grazing purposes, though its liability to drought is a great drawback.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The population like that of all South California, is greatly mixed.  Many nationalities and people find representatives here.  Our Southern ex-slaveholding, aristocratic element, who believe that advanced civilization can only exist where the masses are illiterate, and hence subservient to the educated few, whose mission it is to be the governing and thinking power as is theirs to be the muscular and laboring power, and who, like the old Bourbons, learn nothing and forget nothing, have taken refuge here, where both climate and surroundings are congenial.  Among them are many professional men, particularly lawyers.  There are Germans from the Rhine land who cultivate the grape.  Italians and French engage in silk culture, conservative Spaniards whose complexions and exteriors resemble the oil, the olives and the garlic of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Private and public buildings bear the impress of Spanish nationality, being constructed of adobe, in close proximity to each other, with the broad over-shadowing piazzas, without which no Spaniard's house is complete, and which are so connected that in the rainy season one can promenade the whole length of a street beneath their shelter.  The gates to the courts or outer yards of these buildings are a curiosity, reminding one of the Medieval ages, with their great, pondrous gallows--like frame work, which seem solely constructed for hanging business.  There are some handsome modern buildings, but the general aspect of the city is Spanish.  Notwithstanding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Upper Part of Nevada.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>At Bloomfield the almond and peach trees are in blossom.  Five miles north, towards Moore's Flat, the snow is so deep that a wheeled conveyance must be changed for a sleigh, and the horses "slump" knee deep at every step.  "How is that for altitude?"  One's eyes must be protected from the glare of the sunshine upon the snow, or he may find himself nearly blind from the effect.</P>
091.sgm:<P>There is upon the north side of these mountain trees, a beautiful moss of the most delicate green.  This is an inch or two in length and appears like hair, forming an over coat for the north side of the tree to protect it from the snows and winds of winter.</P>
091.sgm:<P>It is a strange thing that the people in these mining towns should keep such immense bull-dogs.  Nearly every other yard is ornamented with one of these unhappy creatures, fastened to a stake.  Owing to the diligence and enterprise natural to this breed of dogs, they are compelled to whine out a miserable existence of imprisonment in the open air, literally spoiling for an insurance agent or an itinerant book-peddler.</P>
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091.sgm:<P>The style of this latter reminds me of a conversation I held to-day with a small boy about the size of a bag pudding, who was barefooted and engaged in hunting patches of snow for a sled made of a dilapidated washboard turned bottom upwards and bearing the patentee's name.  I will here state that I found this boy as utterly incapable of sticking to a proposition and making a point, as some of our modern lecturers.  When interrogated as to who might be the builder of his sled, he answered that "he had a shoestring in his pocket, and that he would rather go to Uncle Abe's and get some gum."</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Colfax.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>The town of Colfax has now reached the age when, like most of its mountain contemporaries, it lives more in the past than the present or future.  It is a pretty lively place about train time; after that is past, it relapses into a gentle slumber, like a family-watch-dog after the occasion for excitement is over.  The people here think it vain to take a man's name until he has lived his life, breathed his last, and been carried out as dead as Julius C&aelig;sar.</P>
091.sgm:<P>I wish the United States would go to war with some foreign power, the Kingdom of the Sandwich Islands, for instance, Mexico or some of the South American States, and make George Francis Train the General.  There is a class of men living in every country who are only fit for a mark to shoot at, and California has her share of this blear-eyed population; men whose highest aim in life is to see how much whisky or lager been they can hold.  I had an encounter with a specimen the day I left Grass Valley.  This genius was bound to sit upon the seat with me, and also that I should partake of the contents of his whisky flask.  To this I demurred and filed a stay of proceedings.  He seemed however, to recognize the accepted fact that women only live by toleration in communities, and that they travel entirely upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>A remarkable catastrophe occurred in Colfax a short time ago.  Two cats were playing upon the railroad track, in front of the depot, when a train came along, ran over them, and, strange to say, cut the ears off both the cats, and one had his tail taken off, while Providence, in His wisdom and mercy, spared the caudal appendage of the other.  This is a fact, and the cats may be seen at any time in Colfax, alive and well.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Colfax has also its regular brindle dog, with terrible eyes and horrible teeth, grinning in a mouth that has the appearance of being lined with red flannel.  O! shades of Crockett--but Crockett was never an insurance agent nor an itinerant book-peddler in a mountain town of California.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Gold Run.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Gold Run has the appearance of being a very small town.  I am informed, however, that it polls as many votes as Dutch Flat, and that it sustains as many saloons.  During the day, when the men are at work in the mines, the place is as quiet as a Quaker meeting; and if the Modocs we read of, were to attack this town in the day time, it would be likely to surrender until the miners returned at night with picks and empty bottles.  Then it would be retaken, as the Indians would fill themselves with fire water during the day, aud it would be an easy matter to pick them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>The hotel in this town is a good place to stop at; it is kept by a fair-haired  Dane who endeavors to make the traveling public a comfortable home for the time; the yards are nicely cleaned.  The grounds about these country hotels generally abound in old boots, shoes, rags, hats, bones, oyster cans, cast off paper collars and uncorked bottles.  This mixture, in all stages of decay, sends up a thousand odors to the sleeping apartments of the wretched traveler, and if it were not that his days are spent entirely in the open air, he must surely contract the lame leg epidemic, the cerebro spinal meningitis, or perish for the want of breath.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The men of this place have called Scripture to their aid, and justify themselves in working on Sundays as well as week days, by quoting that the Sabbath was made for man, not man for the Sabbath.  There has been a bible agent here holding prayer meetings.  This will do among women, for it is an acknowledged fact that the gods will never hold women responsible for the work she performs on Sunday.  This agent said something of an unkind nature to a woman about "His lambs that had been taken to the upper fold."  He also spoke of the woman as a "dam," and of the shepherd, I awaited to hear if he would mention the man's name in the figurative sense.  He said nothing more, but went his way and shortly after I met him serenely sitting in the door of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>An acquaintance of mine gives it as his opinion that I have been afflicted with "catology from early life."  He might have added "dogmatics" also.  These animals form a part of our domestic institutions.  I love them and sympathize with them, and recognize their right to life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness, providing the happiness of the animal does not depend upon annihilating my unfortunate itinerate fraternity.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Gold Run has its remarkable dog.  This creature has taken a prejudice against milk venders.  He boards at the hotel, but has contracted with a respectable sow in a neighboring yard, to furnish him with the lacteal fluid.  This canine may be seen several times a day taking his chances with the younger members of the sow's family.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Dutch Flat.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Just now Dutch Flat appears somewhat like a huge boquet of fruit blossoms, with mountain shrubs for background, and this boquet has just been nicely showered.  The clerk of the weather concluded to favor us at last with a downright good rain, and everybody put on a smile of peaceful resignation; even the frogs gave a concert at six o'clock last evening.  One of the most remarkable things about this town is that it has a temperance hotel.  A person can get nothing to drink in this house stronger than fresh buttermilk, and it is such a fine, wholesome beverage that if all the saloons kept it for sale lager beer would speedily fall into disuse.  When I was sneezing at the rate of sixteen times an hour, it was with difficulty that the clerk of this hotel could be prevailed upon to visit the neighboring bar and procure a glass of rum and molasses that I might have a "night cap" in order to raise a perspiration.</P>
091.sgm:<P>On the 18th inst. the men of Dutch Flat raised <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>There are at present not less than four citizens in this place who have lame feet or sore toes, and go upon crutches.  This scene reminds me of a picture I used to see about forty years ago in "Peter Parley's Primary Geography."  The engraving represented a fussy old pedagogue with a disabled foot resting upon a chair.  This wonderful cut was underlined with the following pathetic words of appeal: "Take care, boys, do not run against my sore toe; if you do I shall tell you no more stories."  Some call this a "frontispiece," but to me it was a "masterpiece," and I have asked nearly a thousand questions of as many different persons, to ascertain if possible how that old schoolmaster came to have a sore toe.  Could never find any one wise enough to give me any reliable information upon the subject.  Since then I have looked upon sore toes as a mystery past finding out.  It would be well for Brother Taylor, the founder of the "Champions of the Red Cross," or any individual of similar enterprise, to organize a secret society known as "The Order of the Great Toe."  The object of this order should be to mend broken door-knobs, replace shattered window panes and readjust the tumbled down door steps of a poor distressed brother.  The sound members of this order should have no jurisdiction over the widows and orphans of our afflicted brother, because he might be alive and still not be able to be kicking.</P>
091.sgm:<P>What a loss to the Government that the job for exterminating the Modocs was not let by contract for a certain stipulation to Ben Holladay and Geo.  Francis Train.  These individuals could not afford to take from time to eternity to settle this little affair, as they have something else to attend to.  The Government would then have been to no extra expense, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:probabilities are that if there had been more dispatch there would have been less sweetness wasted upon these <HI REND="italics">desert heirs</HI>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Blue Canon.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>When the benevolent angel who spends most of his time in naming new places passed over this town in his christening boat, he saw that it had the appearance of being draped with a thin blue veil.  The shrubs and trees showing through, made it look like beautiful tracery or raised embroidery, so he concluded to call it Blue Can&tilde;on, and it has been known by that name ever since.  No one ever told by whom the Book of Genesis was written, and I am not going to say how I came by the above tradition.  The frogs here held a monotonous dialogue last evening.  One saying, "Will you give credit! will you give credit?"  Another answering, in deep bass, "I will give credit, I will give credit."  A third, in a voice still "basser," said, "Don't you give credit, don't you give credit."  Later in the evening, about the time honest folks retire, I heard them say, "Get up, pay up, dry up"--the last clause has reference to the weather, undoubtedly.  This town, like its western neighbor, Alta, has a good hotel, a telegraph office, a passenger and freight depot.  Here endeth the first chapter.  Directly in front of the hotel are forty Chinamen at work, having been engaged all Winter cleaning the track of snow and other obstructions.  Now the springy bank is running down in a liquid foam, and would keep the track mostly covered but for these miniature laborers.</P>
091.sgm:<P>They do so much remind me of the white headed ants.  When viewed in a mass, they seem so nearly of a size, the sameness of their straw hats, and the little fussy motion is very like ants or bees at work.</P>
091.sgm:<P>These men are paid twenty-eight dollars per head a month, and board themselves.  I am exercised occasionally about the Chinese Question.  I think it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:would be well for the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
091.sgm: to send Livingston Stanley to plant a Chinese colony in Central Africa.  This is represented by him to be a fine country, and it would be just the place for the surplus population of China.  I am at a loss to know whether the English claim Africa by right of discovery, <HI REND="italics">a la</HI>
091.sgm: Livingston, or whether it belongs to the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
091.sgm:<P>A girl eleven years of age, daughter of George Coyan, fell into a miner's flume and was carried about five hundred yards, passing over two falls of water in the meantime, one twelve, the other twenty feet high.  She at last caught hold of a bent and crawled out without assistance, but was so stupefied that she could not tell what had happened to her.  She has recovered from her bruises, and is now able to attend school.  She is a fleshy little dump, and says she sat upright all the way on her perilous ride.  Grace Greenwood recommends this method to the ladies of Washington, who desire to descend the stone steps of that city, to gather up their skirts, and slide, as being the only reliable mode of descent.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Truckee.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Bidding adieu to Blue Can&tilde;on and Placer county, I find myself passing through the shadow and the valley of the Central Pacific's terrible bridges, shady snow-sheds and dungeon tunnels.  Through the occasional streaks of light the inside of the tunnel may be seen ornamented with several rows of telegraph wires, looped up at equal distances with knobs of black glass, or some material which is a non-conductor of lightning.  I do not clearly understand how the electric current can pass through the pendent icicles which hang like strings of fish upon the wires.  At length the summit is reached.  Here the track appears to take the form of a coil of rope, and in the unwinding descent the train dances the "Money <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>We reached Truckee in time to see the immigrant train, consisting of sixteen car-loads of happy, hopeful-looking people.  The Truckee <HI REND="italics">Republican</HI>
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091.sgm:<P>For diligence in business, in money-saving and general industry, one of these new men will be worth a dozen old Californians.  There is a large band of Indians strolling about this town.  When I first saw them it occurred to me that the Modocs might have escaped and come to Truckee.  I am informed that these are entirely a different tribe, perfectly inoffensive, although well posted upon Modoc affairs.  Not being subject to the game laws of the State, made by the white man, for the white man, they come here to fish, and resort to any unlawful means to catch trout, which they sell for money with which to gamble.  Playing cards seems to be about their only lesson in Christianity.  The squaws and children huddle together upon the lee side of a large boulder; here they play cards from morning till night.  Their garments are a kind of mottled grey, being composed of goods of all colors.  They wear red-cotton handkerchiefs upon their heads, and remind me of the little red-headed wood-pecker of the north, who spends most of his time in tapping the hollow beach tree.  It was a wise provision of the Indian designer that the squaws were not made to be very prolific.  Who ever heard of an Indian woman with nine small children and one at the breast.  Truckee has a female barber.  She is fat, fair, forty, and a success in the business.  All the men in that vicinity keep closely shaved.  Much praise is due the woman who dare do a legitimate business, notwithstanding the barbarous opinions of so-called civilized society.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Truckee has again been visited by the fire demon.  On the morning of the 6th instant, at 3 o'clock, the engineer of the westward bound train discovered the fire and gave the alarm at the time the train was about starting.  The fire originated in the hay loft of a livery stable.  Although there was no breeze it spread rapidly from one street to another.  The buildings being entirely of wood, the illumination was complete, and one could see to read in any part <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The day following I met the placid New York fireman.  He immediately recognized me as the person he talked with on the night of the fire, and I commenced to relate the conversation of the previous evening to some bystanders, supposing that all men were willing to abide the truth and defend their own positions.  I was mistaken, however; this individual, like most men, supposed that things seen by women <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>This individual was evidently ashamed of himself, from the fact of having claimed the free drink with the workmen who had really worked to save the property of the proprietors.  Heaven should be the immediate home of all persons so much estranged from earth's inhabitants as to stand cooly by and witness the destruction of property without raising a hand to assist in saving it.  I am convinced that women should become firemen--they are so much more excitable than men that they would be liable at least to make an effort to do something.  Four horses were burned while Providence, in his wisdom and mercy, spared the life of an enterprising goat, also the life of the toper who set the place on fire.  I speak of this goat as an enterprising one.  I was an eye witness to one of his daring feats.  Last Sunday a showman put a large yellow poster upon the side of a boulder; this goat watched the posting process and the man until the bill sticker was out of sight.  The goat then walked up to the poster, smelled it all over, and no doubt came to the conclusion that everything which grew upon rocks should be food for goats.  It was impossible to get a nibble from his then position, so he passed clear around the other side, mounted the boulder and slid down fore feet first, tearing up the paper in his decent.  He then turned deliberately around and commenced chewing the poster.  When he had about half devoured it he began to shake his head and walked off.  I suppose some of the exaggerations of the advertisement were choking him.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The water in this place not being corrupted by the dirt from miners' flumes, is as clear as that of the rivers in the Northern States.  Immense trout are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>These fishes are caught and taken to Sacramento and San Francisco, and sold for a large price.  The river of Sacramento might supply <HI REND="italics">them</HI>
091.sgm: with fish, but the waters are so cloudy that it is doubtful if even frogs can subsist therein.  Lumber, wood, trout and prisoners seem to be the principal exports of Truckee; immigrants, Indians, grizzly bears and whisky its principal articles of import.  There is said to be trains passing through here every day loaded with immigrants, a few of whom tarry here.  The Indians come and go, "where no man knoweth," something like a flock of garrulous crows.  There was a traveling showman, and he had with him an immense grizzly bear.  The keeper bought four dozen loaves of bread with which to feed Bruin.  The number of fishes I did not learn.  This bear made a corner on bread and created a panic in the market, and there has been such inordinate haste on the part of dealers to supply the demand, that bread in an underdone state has been rushed upon the market, and many of the citizens in consequence are suffering from a raw dough obstruction of the esophagus.  This bear, not content with making a corner on bread, went after a side-saddle that was hanging in the corner of his apartment, and endeavored to devour that.  The keeper forgot to mention the circumstance, to the landlord at the time of his departure, and when the proprietor of the bear's boarding-house discovered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Yesterday, in this place, an American voter became very dizzy from imbibing the last-mentioned article imported to Truckee.  He stretched himself for a doze just outside of the walk in front of a saloon.  Some benevolent boys saw him, and concluded that he was dead and should be buried; so they set to work, brought pine, cedar and spruce boughs with which to cover him, as the robins brought leaves to cover the "babes in the woods"--these evergreens being emblematic of the man's everlasting verdancy during life.  After a mound had been made that bore some resemblance to a funeral pile, two rough boards were brought--one placed at the head, the other at the feet--each bearing this inscription: "John Frank departed this life the 20th of April, aged 49 years.  Peace to his ashes."  During the obsequies an individual approached the mound with a large tin pail filled with cold water, with which to refresh the evergreens that had been placed about the head of the deceased.  The last I saw of this performance was the dripping head of the defunct voter coming on a level with the sidewalk.  He was not at that time able to articulate, but, like dear old Robinson Crusoe, was making an effort to do so.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Boca.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Boca is a railroad station situated eight miles from Truckee, on the C.P.R.R., and as far as brevity is concerned is appropriately named.  The principal articles exported from this place are lumber, trout and ice, this being the point whence the San Francisco and Sacramento markets are supplied with the latter article.  The ice-house is built convenient to the track, and is 480 feet long and 40 feet wide.  This structure, with that of a wood-house 400 feet long, presents a vast deal of roofing to the beholder.</P>
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091.sgm:<P>There is one steam saw-mill running night and day, one saloon ditto, one night watch, an express, telegraph and postoffice, one dry goods store, a boarding house and one fine residence.  Everything visible about this place is of the most combustible nature, and if a fire were to get abroad, it could scarcely do less than devour every dollar's worth of property.  The inhabitants have taken extra precautions to secure themselves against such a calamity.  Nearly every house or place of business has one of Babcock's fire extinguishers placed upon a shelf in a corner of the room.  The saw-mill turns out thousands of laths; these are set up in bunches to season, a hundred in a bunch, and cover considerable space.  These stacks resemble a miniature encampment of Indians, teeps or wigwams seen in the picture books.</P>
091.sgm:<P>About fifty white men and thirty Chinamen are said to be employed in this place.  The scenery is rather fine, although the mountains present a brown, barren appearance.  Still Boca is not so much unlike other boquets as one might think at first sight; the principal difference being in the outward appearance.  It certainly possesses one of the main qualities of other boquets, for it is fragrant with the delicious odors of new pine lumber.  The Truckee river comes meandering through the mountains of this place, and having added to its store the waters of one or two large tributaries, is a much more dignified body than when seen near the summit.  It comes tearing, dashing, roaring down its rocky course, and is what the English writers would call a "brawling mountain stream."</P>
091.sgm:<P>Trout fishing is quite a business here; eleven hundred pounds of these delicious fishes were shipped below to-day.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Reno.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>We leave that fragrant little Boca in a storm of snow and rain.  As we proceed eastward by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>At Reno the following morning the storm still continues; it has softened into a cold, disagreeable rain, and instead of the ghostly folds of white, the mountains are draped with mantles of purple mist.  At this point the Truckee river begins to prove its claims to the dignified name of river; it shows its power by branching out and surrounding little tracts of land, forming islands, imitating some corporations in its headstrong way, to surround and hold all unclaimed lands on its march to lake or ocean.  Reno is situated in a dry, barren section of country, everything having a bleached appearance.  The sidewalks are bleached and full of holes.  The Washoe zephyr, of which Mark Twain makes mention, keeps the streets with a fearfully swept appearance; these gusts of wind literally scattering the old boots and cast off paper collars to the four winds.  One of these zephyrs caught me and I came near being scattered in the same manner.  The trimmings of my skirt answered to the buckets of a dip water wheel, which the wind struck with such force as to cause a revolving motion.  I might have continued turning around until this time, but the current concentrated all its force upon my hat, and it rolled just as the plate did when the dish went after the spoon.  I do not think that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>All serene again in this part of the country.  The sun is shining on the contented face of nature as if nothing had transpired different from the ordinary course of things.  It seems almost mockery for old Sol now to overcome the clouds, come out and greet with smiles the smoking earth, when nearly all kinds of vegetation has been destroyed by frost, which his timely presence might have saved.  The people of Reno sing the hymn that has the line in it that says, "December's as pleasant as May."  For three nights the gardens were covered with all kinds of clothing; in the dim light of the cold moon they appeared like a congregation of sleeping camels or hunch-back ghosts.  The ever-present sage brush is the only green thing not injured by the frost.  This reminds me of the terrible impatient expression of countenance upon a little boy who was coming on the cars to California.  He became so tired of the everlasting monotony of sagebrush, that he turned to his father and said: "Papa, why don't the people cut down this ugly weed?"  His father answered, "Because there are no people living here, my son."  "Well," said the boy, in an impetuous way, they should cut it down anyway if they do not live here."</P>
091.sgm:<P>For a few days past, during the late storm, the clouds have hung around in such impenetrable blackness, that one would be led to think that this mountain range was the nursery of all the great thunder and wind storms for the whole continent.  Yesterday these clouds sent their peace commissioners, only a few came, and those turned themselves wrong side out to show their silver lining.  Their presence with this glorious sunshine brings to mind the story of the rainbow that was set in the clouds to show to man that the world should never be drowned again.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The season of Spring in the country is the same in disposition as that of which Thomas Hood, the poet, sings.  The skies are overcast with clouds, that send their spleen upon the mountain peaks that are lying nearest to them.  All manner of breezes revel through this valley--gusts, gales, simoons, whirlwinds, nor'wester, sou'wester, and the zephyr.  To-day we have had a regular "sifter;" this means that the winds have driven the dust through every available crevice, and continues to sift sand and gravel upon the roof, producing the sound of a violent hail-storm.  Three-fourths of the male population in this valley are bald enough for Congress.  I do not mean to insinuate that wives are unusually violent upon this side of the Sierras, on the contrary, women can carry very little sail in this valley, but that this agitation of the elements is unsurpassed this side of the desert of Sahara.  All kinds of vegetation (except the everpresent sagebrush) presents the pale and feeble green that characterizes the pale and struggling vegetation of a more northern climate.  This valley, called the Truckee Meadows, is said to be very fertile.  The land is mostly under cultivation and held at a high price.  It is easily cleared of sagebrush, and when once done is cleared forever, as this plant cannot bear irrigation any more than the native Indians can civilization.  As they have but little more rain here than in California, the land must be irrigated.  The means for this are abundant, as the Truckee river and Steamboat creek both pass through the valley.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The principal article produced upon these farms is the alfalfa grass.  Three crops of this grass can be raised in one year.  One acre will produce about six tons in the three crops.  The average market price is twenty dollars per ton.  This grass is said to be the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>There is an immense water power in this locality, which will sometime be used for manufacturing purposes; and as the wealth of the country increases, Reno may become a very flourishing town of many thousand inhabitants.  It is the county seat of Washoe county, and has a new Court House which cost twenty-seven thousand dollars.  It has also a very polite and handsome set of officials, none more so in two states, unless at Nevada City, California.  In the jail there are ten criminals, mostly for petty offenses, there being but two iudictable cases in the lot.</P>
091.sgm:<P>When men make boundary lines to a State, I should think they would pay more attention to the natural divisions.  For convenience to all concerned, the California line should be drawn at the summit.  Truckee and everything east should be in Nevada, then this State would get its share of criminals.  California, with its grand individuality, should be content with the west side.  When women get to running boundary lines it will take several generations for them to right the mistakes of their forefathers.  The women of Reno show their appreciation of being emancipated from the wash tub by making their social calls on Monday morning.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Reno forms quite a little metropolis for those towns and villages located some distance from the railroad.  Fifteen or twenty "prairie schooners" set sail each day for these various points, all loaded with some kind of merchandise--a compound of dry goods, solids and liquids.  These immense wagons are built so high at the sides, that when a number of them are huddled together in a yard, a little stretch of the imagination will convert them into mineature vessels, lying upon the dry docks for repairs.  The canvas covering, always in a state of more or less delapidation, answers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The Washoe Indians that linger around this town are getting pretty well utilized; the women are good washers, and are frequently employed to saw and split wood in small quantities; to carry water and perform numerous little pieces of drudgery, for which they receive refuse food from the white man's table; enough to last for the day.  It is seldom they are paid in money for these little services, it being better economy for them to receive the broken food, as they get a larger quantity and a greater variety than they could buy at first with the money earned in this way.  The Indian men manifest a disposition akin to the masculine dignity of civilization.  They do not come around the houses looking for jobs, but hie themselves to the river to fish, while the squaws provide the daily bread and little relishes.  These Indian women can not make fine distinctions in conversation.  I do not think they clearly understand the difference between a falsehood and a joke.  One of them said to me that "all the white Mahalies in Virginia City saw wood."  She knew perhaps that I had never been there, and knew nothing of the peculiar habits of <HI REND="italics">those</HI>
091.sgm: "white Mahalies," and was not prepared to contradict the statement.  This Indian woman, without doubt, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>The Sabbath school of Reno had a picnic on the 24th inst., and quite unconsciously celebrated the birthday of the English Queen.  At the outset there was a misunderstanding between the committee of arrangements and the railroad men.  The former had agreed to give two hundred dollars for a train of passenger cars, while the latter expected that amount for one caboose and the remainder platform cars.  After some contention, the representatives of the road compromised by accepting one hundred and forty dollars, then all went well and merry as a marriage bell.  The party stopped at a distance of about twenty miles from Reno, near the celebrated Bowers' place.  Here they exchanged views, and sighs and glances, ate their lunch, and returned home at six, tired enough to suit the most fastidious.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The people of Reno are smiling at a late decision of the Supreme Court of this State.  One Mr. Lake obtained a charter from the State Legislature for a bridge which he had built, spanning the Truckee river.  One of the conditions of the charter was, that no other bridge should be built within a mile of this.  In time the V. &amp; T. R. R. came, and in its irresistible and rapid march, crossed the river one-half mile from the above mentioned bridge.  The consequence was that Mr. Lake sued for damages.  The Supreme Judges decided that a railroad bridge was not a <HI REND="italics">bridge</HI>
091.sgm: but a <HI REND="italics">structure</HI>
091.sgm:.  The people of Reno have concluded that the railroad structure now crosses the bosom of a <HI REND="italics">lake</HI>
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091.sgm:<P>The inhabitants of Reno, like those of all newly settled places, have a tendency to lend and borrow.  In this locality alfalfa is legal tender.  The publishers of newspapers take grass in payment for subscription, with occasionally a pup thrown in, diversified with mule-shoes, trout, and cord wood.  The girls mitten their beaus, by insinuating that they may go to grass.  I sold a picture to the keeper of a corner variety place, and received in payment a pint of fresh buttermilk.  Beggars in large cities have been known to borrow a neighbor's baby in order to excite public sympathy.  In Reno they borrow and lend setting hens, wheelbarrows, sawhorse and sometimes wood--the latter article they seldom return.  The County Court commences a session to-morrow.  The expectation is that some of the cases of borrowing will be decided illegal.  All phrases of life are represented here as in large communities.  There are great men and wise men.  Those who boast of having descended from some of the F. F. V's, whose forefathers would not lie, and those whose forefathers for generations have seldom been seen upright.  There are persons who rejoice in the following very significant cognomens: "James Fisk," "Bismarck," "Bombastese," "Furiosa," and "Billet Doux!"  Shades of Tom Moore, think of going from the cradle to the grave a living love messenger.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Leaving Reno.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Going eastward from Reno we have a beautiful panorama of mountain scenery.  There is an interesting diversity in the picture which appears to glide past the moving train.  At one point, bare hills lift their majestic heads, forming a hazy background for the green, productive valley front.  At another point, and apparently but a short distance from the rich valley, their frosty heads form a queer contrast with the neighboring hills; still they do not "curl up and die," in vulgar imitation, but wear the white covering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>On the way from Reno to Franktown we pass deserted villages, ruined quartz mills and dilapidated bath houses.  The land upon which some of the most important springs are located, has been in litigation for a number of years; both parties being ruined with the great expense of conducting a land law suit.  Even the winner could not go on with his business, his habitation being burned by the incendiary, and the heated soil for which so hotly they contested, is mostly deserted.  Now there is but indifferent accommodations for the afflicted who seek the troubled waters.  Last Sabbath I attended a picnic at the famous Bowers Mansion.  The house is most beautifully situated at the base of a range of mountains, giving a magnificent view of the farm in the valley, directly in front.  The slope is just about as one would desire.  The scene takes in Washoe Lake, which lies at the base of the range of hills across the opposite side of the farm from the house.  This lake and the scenery about it is said to resemble the Sea of Galilee, although much smaller.  The fields look beautiful; the rich alfalfa grass forms a dark green plush covering, in which the cattle rejoice.  They appear the very pictures of animal enjoyment.  There are a number of Hill's fine pictures in this house, among them one cattle scene; but a thousand of Hill's cattle pictures could scarcely compare with the animals upon a real hill.  The vegetation of Nevada resembles in kind and quality that of the Northern States much more than the California vegetation does.  The above mentioned farm <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>I judge from a notice that I saw upon the door of a place of public resort, that politics are not running very high in this State just now.  The contents of the notice are as follows: "Do not ask to borrow money, if you would spare yourself the pain of a refusal."  It is very evident that several months will elapse before the next election.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Carson City.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>The heated term has commenced at last.  Since the 3d of July, how to keep cool has been all the cry.  The hot sand scorches one's feet and hourly brings us in sympathy with Shadrech, Meshach and Abednego.  When the sun strikes fairly upon the wooden walks, it threatens to set them in a blaze.  Awnings are put in order; parlors are made dark as prisons; wire doors <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>These hot days cause this town of a thousand smells, to send forth an effluvia which has become offensive to the standing "boards," and for fear of cholera or some other pestilence, they have concluded to sit.  Since this sitting I have observed one bonfire and one garbage wagon.  The authorities should issue a proclamation that every citizen shall clean up his premises and the street or streets adjoining.  Wagons should be hired to cart away the trash, and be paid by the State, if there is no city fund for that purpose.  This could be done under some special necessity act.  There are Indians and Chinamen by the scores, affording abundance of cheap labor, each property owner could employ and pay these people to do the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>The people of Carson are very sensitive.  They are apt to see things <HI REND="italics">through a glass</HI>
091.sgm:<P>Carson passed quietly through the firey ordeal of celebrating the nation's birthday.  The explosion at Virginia City spread a feeling of quiet sadness over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Old Abe Curry's ball was a success.  This was about the only thing done to celebrate the Fourth in Carson.  The day was very warm and still, there being only a sufficient breeze to keep the stars and stripes flying.  There was much drinking among a certain class of voters, and occasionally a fight occurred, just to show that there is fighting material still left in the United States of Hamerica.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Carson has a whirligig for children; this is managed by men, and turned by horse power; is covered with canvass like a tent, and makes a pleasant and safe place for juveniles during school vacation.  There are seated boxes which answer for carriages, and wooden horses with bridles, fierce, terrible looking steeds, so that persons can ride on horseback or in a carriage, in a fine procession going swiftly around without the jar of a real vehicle.  This city is soon to have another newspaper published by R. R. Parkinson, the first issue will make its advent on Monday, the 14th of July.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The weather in Carson resembles that of early Spring or Autumn of a more northern climate.  Although it is June, a Summer month, the air is very cool; some days the sky is overcast with clouds, but like the shrew, they threaten what they never intend to perform, for it is so arranged by the clerk of the weather as to never rain here in Summer.  There is not a people living who have a better appreciation of fine weather than the Carsonites.  If the sun shines a few hours in the morning and the elements remain placid till noonday, everybody seems happy and ready to greet others with one accord in regard to this all-important topic.  I do not feel bitter towards this people because of their peculiar climate; on the contrary, give them credit for much philosophical forbearance and constitutional endurance.  Everybody <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:keeps remarkably healthy, notwithstanding the unpleasant agitation of the elements (which may be conducive to health) and the uncleanly condition of the streets.  The latter I am sure agrees with one portion of the domestic institution, namely, the pigs.  They claim a stamping ground near my lodgings, which remind me of the Chicago stock yards.  These creatures are numerous, fat and happy.  They live in the center of civilation, move in respectable society, bathe in the chemical waters, recline upon <HI REND="italics">down</HI>
091.sgm:<P>Carson City is not properly named.  This place should have had one of those good old English names, either Windchester or Windham.  There would have been a shadow of appropriateness in such naming; as it is, Carson means nothing, unless it be the hero of one of Ned Buntline's frontier stories.  Carson City, like most towns of its age, has many structures in all stages of respectability, and many in all stages of decay.  Upon visiting its back streets where the residences are located; one will observe a house presenting a fresh attractive appearance; the yard flourishing with every green thing.  Upon the premises adjoining may be found a ranch, or several pig styes, with conveniences for mud baths near the entrance of the front gate.  The streets and gutters abound in every article of cast-off abomination to be found in a well filled junk shop; and to make matters worse, they are in all stages of decomposition.  If the city fathers do not make an effort and remove these street nuisances, according to the Darwinian theory, the next generation will be born with turned up noses.  Darwin in his philosophy, proves that every thing in nature originates from some necessity.  It does not require any very great stretch of the imagination to conclude how that style of proboscis originated, as it is a well known fact that the above mentioned physiognomy is most frequently met with among the unhappy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Rheumatism is about the only disease known to the inhabitants of this locality; and it is my opinion that if those who are subject to this complaint, and those who are not, would wear flannel, and enough of it, the year round, and use water as a beverage, this terrible affliction would appear less frequently.</P>
091.sgm:<P>I think there must have arrived at Carson lately a cargo of jews-harps, from the fact that scarcely an Indian man or woman is to be seen but what is engaged tuning one of these gentle instruments.  The fat "Mahalies" pass upon the street playing the harp and screening their elbows from the jostling crowd.  Sleek looking Lo's sit in squads upon the sidewalk discoursing sweet music, apparently supremely bles't and happy.  They must be happy or they could never keep such a quantity of adipose tissue about them.  I am wondering if we, in our unbounded ambition and undefined civilization, do not, upon the whole, pay rather dear for the whistle; but then we might as well be engaged in paying dearly as in doing nothing.  To be sure, in civilization we lose our health, and teeth and our freedom; still if we are not so short-sighted as to give up the first and most important principles, we do not deserve to have them, and are only fit for slaves.  The only person that I ever envied in my life was a woman who had a place with her apple stand under a lamp post, on one of the principal streets of the city of New York.  She was engaged for forty years or more in this occupation, was happy, and had sense enough to realize it.  Her health was perfect, her teeth were sound, her appetite good and her conscience clear.  She was not obliged to follow fashions, to eat with a fork, be bored to death with small talk, or higgled into consumption by Mother Grundy notions.  In short, she escaped all the miserable, brainless, contemptible bickerings of what is called society.</P>
091.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Carson is to have a grand public ball on the night of the Fourth of July.  This ball is to be given by our mutual friend, Old Abe Curry, so that these favors are <HI REND="italics">curried</HI>
091.sgm:<P>The people of this city have been somewhat agitated lately over the attempted rape upon the person of a little six-year old girl, by Judge Waitz, a well known citizen, at present engaged in the United States Land Office.  Waitz is a short, heavily built man, of fine personal appearance and captivating manners, has a sugar-loafed head, however, broadest at the base, and an unenviable reputation for "baser" qualities.  The child is a pretty little innocent of the Evangeline modest type of beauty, not precocious in any respect, but more like an infant than most children of her age.  The Judge has been examined by a court of his <HI REND="italics">peers</HI>
091.sgm:, and of course acquitted honorably in the face of overwhelming evidence against him.  There was much grumbling and some threats, and if the child had been seriously injured, his fellow townsmen would have paid little heed to the decision of his <HI REND="italics">peers</HI>
091.sgm:.  The editorial in the <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
091.sgm: appearing the morning following the examination, read as do some of the defences written for Henry Ward Beecher, leaving the reader entirely at the mercy of his own opinions at last.  This man should not have been tried by a jury of his peers, but by women, even as Laura Fair was tried by men.  Women should legislate and fix the penalties upon this class of crimes entirely, as they are the parties most interested.  According to the late decisions of the court in the case of Susan B. Anthony, we are not citizens, never have been, and of course are exempt from the duties devolving upon citizens.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>When a man's brains are the broadest at the base, he is generally of the "baser" sort.  Such baseness should be properly treated and judiciously employed.  He should only be permitted to live in basements, to engage in putting down base boards, in scrubbing base, or teaching through base, should also be paid off in the basest metals.  Should be fed upon bass cooked with a bass wood fire, throughly baked and basted.  His only amusements should be that of playing base ball, or a bass viol, or that of hiding his own baseness.  He should only sing bass; should recline in the shade of the bass wood.  His wardrobe should be basted, then if he continued to conduct himself like "baste," and the evidence is not entirely baseless, he should be sent to the Bastile and severely bastinadoed or basted for his "bastilliness."</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Virginia City.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Virginia City has its share of landscape beauty notwithstanding narute's furniture is always dressed in monotonous tufted brows.  There is a beauty in the scene that stretches far away through undulating valleys, as far as the eye can reach, without the obstruction of vegetation.  Upon the other hand, there is grandeur in these mighty sentinels who rear their heads heavenward and keep a continual lookout over the busy city and minor hills which dot like bubbles, the surface of the valley landscape.  There is in one view a brown sugar loaf, something for the eye to rest upon, sweet in name, if not in nature.  This loaf seems to have been put up to drain, and the honeycomb perforations may be seen at a great distance.  The fluids have been formed into a well defined rivulet, with trees growing upon the banks, and many other green things.  So great is the altitude of the city, that these trees look like patches of green moss, or lettuce beds in the distant intervals.  Gold Hill <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Virginia city and the surrounding country has a character peculiarto itself.  The country is entirely minus vegetation, every latent seed in the soil having been destroyed by the persistent efforts of old Sol.  The native Virginians stand broiling as if they had, individually, constitutions suitable for martyrs.  The thermometer reaches ninety in the shade, and boils over in the sun; I think it would be favorable to hold protracted meetings of an orthodox nature, as the least allusion to fire and brimstone would bring the most indifferent audience en masse to the anxious seat.  The streets are dry and dusty, the bricks are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>This country is said to have much mineral wealth concealed beneath its rough and uninviting surface, and some of the more industrious natives are constantly at work digging in these mines.  It is difficult to tell how they dispose of their wealth, as little of it is used for solid attainments or permanent improvements; without doubt, much of it is exchanged for vulgar fineries, injurious stimulants and hurtful drugs.  I do not think the native Virginian a God-fearing man, and often wonder why the people who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The native Virginians have some queer customs, many of them not unlike those found in other countries.  If they see a young girl on the street, and desire that she should become a hoodlum, they persist in calling her by that name, and treating her like a hoodlum, until she is led to believe that she must be a natural born sister of that order; else why should men say so?  When in this state of mind, having no self-respect, she can be easily prevailed upon to take the veil of that order, if for nothing else than to get out of sight of men and women who have endeavored to make her what she is.  You can see by this, that like other families of the human race, the women have too much regard for the opinions of the male.  This peculiar way of making converts forms a considerable feature in the religion of the native Virginian.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The women wear upon the tops of their heads a pyramid of flax and foreign matter, almost a foot in height, and immense rings in their ears made of sea shells.  This custom of wearing the hair in this manner is said to be encouraged by the priests of the hoodlum men, and which is called society, because it is known to affect and suppress the feminine brain; it is generally supposed that women with well developed, healthy brains are dangerous to society.  The women have another absurd custom; that of trailing their drapery in the dust.  Whether this is a religious rite performed as a kind of penance or an offering of their finery to the gods, I have been unable to learn.  I am inclined to think, however, that it is done in penance, because most frequently practiced by a class of women who have most need of penance.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>There has been quite a change in the weather in this locality, so much so that the sober Virginian sleeps under an additional blanket.  The new water works are now in a promising condition, still I do not see the anticipated results.  I expected to see the grateful waters pour out of every faucet, as it did from the smitten rock; to tear, rush, rumble, gurgle, dash, plunge through every sink of iniquity, sewer and gutter.  Before the new water works were completed, many persons, in order to raise a moisture and save the expense of a water bath, resorted to the use of Dr. Monroe's Medicated Vapor Baths, which are known to be so effectual, as in ten minutes to distil five gallons of Fredericksburg lager, through the cuticle of an averaged sized Virginian.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Dr. Newton, the famous magnetic healer, is now in this city.  Whether this man has the power to ruin all the cork leg establishments, and crutch manufactories, I cannot say, but certain it is, that he is heavily charged with lightning, magnetism, fire and brimstone or some unknown agency.  The feeling produced upon touching his hand, was a sharp stinging sensation, the same as that caused by handling the brass balls of a galvanic battery.  The Doctor intends visiting Grass Valley before leaving for his home in the East.</P>
091.sgm:<P>I promised in my last to continue my description of the Virginians, a most peculiar people, who manage to live in a country barren as the desert of Sahara, both in water and vegetation.  You have already been informed about how they manage to procure sufficient moisture with which to sustain life.  Their bread is brought from foreign countries.  Think of it!  There is not a single lettuce bed or wheat field to be seen.  The sound of the scythe or threshing machine has never vibrated this starving atmosphere.  No wonder the air is thin; there is nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:for it to feed upon.  When these people build a house so high that it is considered unsafe, because of earthquakes ortornadoes, they demolish the upper stories, thereby cheating the elements out of their prey.  When they have occasion to punish a man for any petit offense, such as murder in the second degree, women stealing, kidnapping, or such like, they confine him in some dark, lonesome place, deprive him of his accustomed beverages, so that his addled senses return, and he has time to think.  Sometimes it is very difficult for him to escape from these places, still if he does not succeed in getting away, they usually give him his liberty for his pains, as the trouble of using his brains and exercising his faculties in making an escape is considered a sufficient punishment for most light offences.  In former times they frequently resorted to the death penalty.  Sometimes this penalty was inflicted because a man killed his brother, possessed too much money, and sometimes for borrowing other men's wives.  As there are no natural projections in this country by which a man can be hanged by the neck, as done in other places, they tie his feet, draw a sack over his head, then throw him into some mining shaft fifteen or eighteen hundred feet deep.  Here the prisoner is left to grope about in the dark until he perishes from loneliness and thirst.  If a young lady desires to go to a foreign land for the purpose of learning to make mud cakes, cook, or play upon the hand organ, they give her what is called a benefit.  First of all they make her swear that she is not in quest of a dilapidated crowned head, or musty old duke, or any other fussy fossil of a foreigner, that she shall marry an American in America, or forfeit her right to make quilts after the pattern of the stars and stripes, or to pluck the feathers of the eagle with which to make downy beds.  After she has shown a willingness to abide the counsels and admonitions of her countrymen, they all assemble at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>On the 15th the sky became overcast with clouds; it thundered constantly and threatened more than considerably; sprinkled a little; finally, in the night, showered quite earnestly.  I think the clouds must be attracted by the new water works, in this instance verifying the text: "Where one has, more shall be given."  The water works are at last completed, and said to be in good running order.  Since the shower the air seems much cooler, and even everything seems to have taken a bath; nevertheless "down with the dust" is all the cry among the natives of this peculiar city.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The Virginians are extremely sensitive in regard to attacks or insinuations made against their reputation for virtue and their knowledge of fine arts.  This is right--just as it should be.  The very name Virginia means a great deal, still I can not help thinking that there was not much forethought exercised in naming any of the towns and cities of the State of Nevada.  Carson should have been called Windchester; Virginia, Shaftsburg; Gold Hill, A-shan-tee.  If space permitted I could suggest several other very important improvements, just to give you an idea how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The freedom of the press is somewhat restricted among this peculiar people.  Each newspaper office is guarded in some way entirely unknown in other countries.  The editorial rooms of the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
091.sgm: are guarded on two of the cardinal points, at least that would have been vulnerable but for great wisdom and some generalship displayed by the inmates.  In the first palce there is an entrance from one street where it is fourteen feet from the ground to the doorstep, and stairs have never been erected to unite the space.  The editor carries in his boot leg a ladder constructed from guttapercha.  After making his ascent he draws it up after him.  Some have said his track I see, and I'll pursue, but there is no use; this ingenious contrivance somewhat intercepts the scent of his pursuers.  Alexander Dumas would have delighted in such an invention, tha the might for a time have eluded the pursuit of his creditors.  There is an inside door leading to the printing office.  This door is without latch or knob, nothing but a spring bolt, and when the door swings to it fastens itself, and entrance from without is quite impossible, unless by the friendly aid of the editor.  The former proprietor had a knob to the door; this being removed leaves a small aperture through which the inmates can take a birdseye view of their visitors, and are enabled to tell Red Riding Hood from the wolf, and they have the good sense to always let Red Riding Hood in.  The Virginia <HI REND="italics">Enterprise</HI>
091.sgm: has a brand new office, fitted up in convenient shape, everything savoring of pecuniary prosperity, the effect of which has brought on brainless audacity.  The entrance to this office is guarded by the head and shoulders of a wolf, with spiritless glass eyes, and formidable looking teeth; and this wolf holds in his mouth a sprig of the shamrock.  I think this is to show that the Irish element can be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:Republicanized or that the Republican party are fast becoming Democratic in the offensive sense of the term, and that in time, if not now, their offences will smell as rank to heaven as that of any party who have become surfeited with power and plunder.  The Gold Hill <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
091.sgm: office is guarded with the stuffed skin of a small English bull terrier, which goes further to prove the proprietor's affection for a former friend than to show that he has enemies which must be driven away regardless of expense.  This dog skin was not put up to frighten women and children; they are known to be friendly with little dogs.  The wolf's head in the <HI REND="italics">Enterprise</HI>
091.sgm: office was put up for this purpose; surely it could be for no other, for it is a well known fact that the <HI REND="italics">male bore</HI>
091.sgm:<P>There has been a succession of showers in these parts lately, and the weather is delightfully cool.  The atmosphere has the peculiar Indian Summer haze so common in the Northern States during the months of September and October.  Since the cool weather commenced many persons seem troubled with a slight inflammation of the palate, which, in some cases, extends to the nasal organ, causing an extraordinary demand for pocket handkerchiefs.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Virginia is a curious city; the people have such an underground way of doing business.  There is very little visible above ground here except men, smoke-stacks and chimneys.  They as a people are somewhat Turkish in customs and manners.  They chew, smoke, swear, gamble and drink.  The women seldom appearing on the streets, and when they do appear are nearly always veiled.  Notwithstanding the women are seldom seen in public, the men say that their morals are no better than those of the women of other countries; and some of the vulgar men speak with disrespect of their lawfully wedded wives.  In this they resemble the people of Turkey.  Verily human <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The stove pipes of this city, like everything else, are peculiar; they have aspirations.  It is said that if they are not as high as Mount Davidson they will not draw.  These pipes have a fixture upon the top something like a cross, and if persons were not better informed they might think at first sight that this was a Christian community, and that these crosses were emblematic.  It is nothing of the kind; it is only the sign of a contract with zephyrs that play around Mount Davidson that they shall not enter the chimneys at the top, but at the sides.  If the gusts came in at the top it might interfere with the draught, and there is not a people living who make greater use of this little monosyllable than the native  Virginian.  They quaff their draughts and laugh; they cash their drafts and quaff; they change their coats to avoid the draught; and upon draught horses they'll bet their pile.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The first two weeks after pay day the native Virginian is happy.  Then he lives and does considerable business in the way of gambling, drinking, betting, and having a good time generally.  After the middle of the month, the nature of the "music" is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Carson in Autumn.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>The winds of approaching Winter already begin to tear through these barren valleys at an alarming rate, threatening to annihilate the visible works of man, and if entire destruction is impossible, to cover them with native dust until their works are at least invisible.  The clouds which gather around these hills are grand beyond description when they assume the color of a cluster of ripe grapes, and fairly darken the sun with their blackness, threatening to descend upon these sons of the mountain and to set them afloat like rats in a gutter.  The mountaineers have learned to look upon these awful clouds without fear or trembling, and only send up a silent prayer that the clouds may pour their precious drops through the atmosphere a sufficient length of time to lay the dust, lately sent abroad by the thorough going zephyr.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The attempts of mother Nature in this vicinity, to keep up appearances or an outward show in regard to the change of the seasons is really distressing.  Those miserable little tufts of sage brush and other desert shrubs, whose nearest approximation to the color of vegetation is brown or blue--these shrubs, actually putting on Autumn airs, have donned their yellow Fall garb, without even the excuse of a frost for changing their colors.  This effort reminds me of the unseemly exertions of a miserable, impecunious family to appear in respectable suits of mourning at the demise of an inebriate father, who, during life, literally cursed his family, and at best encumbered the earth much longer than was profitable.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Carson City has donned her Autumn apparel, and is really lovely in her new costume.  Her breath is sweet with the perfume of falling leaves and ripe fruits, and this October air brings with it a coolness, a freshness and sweetness not found in the balm of a thousand flowers.  I have always known that Carson was a beautiful young daughter of the desert hills; have also known that in matters of personal cleanliness her early education has been somewhat neglected.  Imagination, a Washoe zephyr and a suit of new gaily colored garments have greatly improved her entire appearance, besides making her presence very agreeable.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Reno Fire.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Reno has fallen.  She has at last managed to get up a first-class fire, after many unsuccessful attempts, and now lies in ruins after the manner of more eastern cities.  The drawings representing the ruins of Chicago or Boston will answer as well for Reno.  I never fully realized before that towns were made of houses until these buildings took flame-colored wings and flew away, leaving scarcely anything behind to remind one of their former presence.  The fire first appeared at 10 o'clock at night, and as there is no fire department in this city, the devouring element had everything its own way entirely.  Although the weather was calm and the moon looked coldly down, the fire continued to spread until it seemed as if there would not be a match box left upon which to strike a match and light a cigar.  For about three hours there seemed to be more confusion than terror.  All kinds of goods were hustled into the street, and mingled in the strangest possible manner.  In one instance I observed a nest of coffins standing in the middle of the street; a large cheese had been placed upon these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The morning after the fire, at about eight o'clock, I entered the State Journal office, and found that it had been literally riddled of its contents, although it escaped from the flames.  The front of the building was composed of glass doors; these were removed to a place of safety, leaving the entire end of the house minus an enclosure.  Upon going to the back part of the office I found the State Journal asleep, lying upon a trundle bed, his face and eyes terribly swollen from the last night's excitement.  Seeing the trundle bed, my maternal instincts were at once aroused.  I drew the clothes over his shoulders and left him alone with boots on the gable end out of his office, the sun shining in where his press was, his files disordered and scattered, and the Journal so tired and shattered, that he might have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>There is one consolation amid all Reno's desolation; that is, that satirists will not be able to locate another bed-bug story in this town for the next thirty days, as everything that was left standing was either bed-bug proof or so much heated as to make them untenable for this insinuating denizen.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Notes of Travel.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Leaving San Jose, northeastward from Sacramento, we pass over one of the most beautiful and fertile tracts of country the world possesses.  Crossing and re-crossing Sierra Del Monte Diablo mountains, which belong, properly speaking, to the Coast Range of the California mountain system, the eye is delighted with an ever-varying and most picturesque landscape.  Now level, undulating and fertile, then hilly and less productive, becoming gradually mountainous and very sterile, then suddenly crossing a clear, meandering mountain stream, whose crystal waters reflect the iron horse as he rapidly bears us across, bringing the blessing of pure, sweet water to the inhabitants of its valleys, while its banks bloom like a well cultivated garden.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The waters of the San Joaquin river (pronounced by the natives, San Waukeen,) are dark and muddy with the soil which is swept into them from the mining regions in the mountains.  The San Joaquin valley is a great grain producing district.  Thousands of tons of wheat are still awaiting shipment, the home market being glutted with bread-stuffs of every kind.  Plums, figs, almonds and grapes grow abundantly.  The latter are pruned till they appear as though nothing remained but the roots and a branch or two, yet they very soon grow to vines and yield an abundant harvest.  Foreign markets are needed for California fruits as well as grains.  Such vegetables as beets and carrots, grow to an enormous size, the former <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The experiment of importing cashmere goats promises to become a success in this valley.  The goats soon get acclimated, and will eventually become very profitable to their owners.  Great herds of cattle and immense flocks of sheep and fine pasturage upon the sunny slopes of the hills and in the mountain valleys.  The sheep are sometimes watched by a shepherd, who appears to the tourist like a very picture of indolent repose.  As we saw one reclining lazily upon a mossy bank, resting his right arm upon his crook, we recalled to mind a libelous anecdote of one of his confreres, an Alpine shepherd, which we cannot forbear repeating.  A traveler among the Alps relates, that in his perigrinations he found a shepherd weeping bitterly and apparently in great distress, and upon inquiring what the trouble was, the shepherd replied that he was very hungry.  "Well <HI REND="italics">get up</HI>
091.sgm: my good friend," said the traveler; "come with me and I will attend to your necessities."  "O, Good Sir," replied the shepherd; "if I choose to <HI REND="italics">get up</HI>
091.sgm: I could get my own dinner, which is in that basket hanging in yonder tree.  If you wish to do a kind act, please bring it to me, for I have not energy enough to fetch it myself."  "Not so, friend," was the answer, "if you are too lazy to <HI REND="italics">get up</HI>
091.sgm:<P>The sagacious instinct of the shepherd dog is truly wonderful.  The utmost reliance can be placed upon him, for he never neglects his trust, always keeping the sheep within a certain limit and guarding them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Northeastward, nearly midway between San Jose and Sacramento, we find the fine flourishing city of Stockton.  Its population is about ten thousand.  The State Lunatic Asylum and one or two other public institutions are located here.  Stockton is considered one of the healthiest resorts on the Pacific slope.  In its vicinity are numerous hot and mineral springs, which are recommended as potent cures for rheumatic and neuralgia affections, dispepsia, liver and kidney complaints, etc., etc.  Many invalids annually resort thither in search of their lost blessing, health.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The location of Sacramento renders it unhealthy and subject to agues, fevers, and all diseases of a malarious nature.  The sudden melting of the mountain snow swells the rivers and creeks to such a degree that the city and surrounding country are often inundated, producing great destruction to life and property, and additional malaria is caused by the receding of the waters.  Notwithstanding these natural disadvantages, and the dull times of which people complain everywhere, Sacramento is steadily improving.  Many buildings are in process of construction, some of which are fine palatial structures, but the greatest number are modest, genteel, little cottages, adapted to the wants of families who desire to live pleasantly and keep out of debt upon a small income.  There is a pressing demand for dwellings of this description.  Fine business blocks are also being built.  The Odd Fellows' Temple is, with the exception of the State House, the most costly and magnificent structure in the city.</P>
091.sgm:<P>The new State House is not yet complete, but gives architectural promise of elevating the tastes of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:future law-makers of Modern Ophir.  May their habits be likewise elevated.  We couldn't make out any particular style of architecture, but concluded it was built after a mixture of all styles.  We endeavored to take an inventory of a small mountain of whisky, wine and beer bottles and oyster shells with which it was surrounded, but our mathematics failed and we gave up the attempt in despair.  Won't we women have a time cleaning these Augean stables of wine bottles, whisky bottles, beer bottles, cigar stumps, broken pipes, tobacco juice, etc., etc., when we <HI REND="italics">vote and legislate</HI>
091.sgm:<P>Her restaurants are one of the features of Sacramento.  These are numerous, generally cleanly and well kept.  Many travelers and even resident families procure their meals here, as in Paris, Berlin, and the European capitals.  A masculine waiter receives $40 per month and expenses, while the female waiter, for doing exactly the same work, and doing it with greater dispatch and more adaptability, receives $20.  What a comment upon the injustice practiced and upheld by the <HI REND="italics">voting</HI>
091.sgm: towards the <HI REND="italics">non</HI>
091.sgm:<P>But, "For the desert a fountain is springing," for laws have been passed during the present session of the Legislature which make important changes in respect to the rights of women.  It is now provided that the earnings of the wife shall not be liable for the debts of the husband; that the earnings and accumulations of the wife and her minor children living with or being in her custody, if the wife be living separate or apart from her husband, shall be the separate property of the wife; and that the wife if living separate or apart from her husband, shall have the exclusive use and control of her separate property, may sue and be sued, without joining or being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>MISCELLANEOUS.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A Lady Farmer.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>I am going to tell you a fact, that all woman's rights women are not old, homely, and husbandless.  I have been up the country and found a woman who is strong minded and at the same time beautiful, who carries on a farm, attending to all the business the same as a gentleman farmer.  She raises fruits, grapes, grain, cattle, horses and hogs, hires farm-hands, manages and discharges them at pleasure, besides attending the duties of her house.  Her family is large, still she entertains much company with an ease and dignity that would grace a queen.  After dinner instead of showing us new dresses and bonnets, she took us to the hills to look at a fine drove of "Dolly Varden" cattle.  These creatures recognized the voice of their mistress and came licking around as if she had been Lot's wife.  I placed myself in close proximity to a fence; not that I am <HI REND="italics">afraid</HI>
091.sgm: of cows, but in case they should become too personal in their attentions you know that a strong minded woman <HI REND="italics">could</HI>
091.sgm: climb a fence.  While we were standing upon one of those beautiful foothills it occured to me that men could be compared to these hills, which, viewed in the distance, appear to be of more consequence than they really are.  When one comes close to them he finds each hill surrounded with a smiling fertile valley, abounding in "milk and honey," "corn and vines."  While the mountain majestically lifts its brown bald head like man, passing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A Shocking Phenomenon</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>.</P>
091.sgm:<P>About a mile and a half from Carson City, in a northwesterly direction, there is a farm house that was occupied for several years by a lady who has just been telling me how much she was annoyed by the singular fact of having her cooking stove frequently charged with electricity.  One warm day in Summer the fire had bee permitted to go entirely out.  The lady, who was at this time in the garden, heard a roaring noise from the stove, as if a brisk fire had just been kindled with some light material.  Thinking that some member of the family had lighted a fire in her absence, she approached the stove, took the griddle-lifter from a nail where it was hanging, and attempted to raise the lid.  The moment the lifter touched the lid, the lady received a powerful shock, as from a galvanic battery.  Knowing something of the nature of this invisible force, she proceeded to open the stove door with a stick of wood, when to her astonishment there was no sign of fire inside.  The different members of the family were called to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>An Explanation</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>.</P>
091.sgm:<P>A correspondent called attention to a singular phenomenon--that of a singing or buzzing stove, near Carson.  A roaring noise was heard about the stove when there had not been any fire in it for hours, and everything about it was heavily charged with electricity.  This occurred most frequently when the sky was overcast with clouds.  The singularity of this phenomenon lies solely in the fact that it occurred in a valley, as it is of the same class as the phenomenon known as the electric resonance of mountains, which is not rare in high regions and yet not frequent.  It is very rare on plains or in valleys, however, and we believe that the instance cited by our correspondent, though insignificant as to extent, is the only case of the kind on record.  The electric resonance of mountains (that is, the buzzing noise of the soil or rocks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>The Religious Question.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>As you appear to be willing to give, occasionlly, space in your journal for the promulgation of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Grant in Peace.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>The President who has committed no flagrant outrage upon the rights of the people, stands a better chance to be elected to a second term of office than his first--from this fact, that he has more power to control votes through his established officials, and at the same time is quite liable to receive a larger popular vote than at first.  The great masses of humanity are conservative and distrustful; wisely and reasonably preferring to trust an officer who has been tried, than to take the risks of experiments, when results cannot be foreseen.  The objection brought against Grant by the organs of the opposing political party are of the most frivolous character, and are intended only as an appeal to the prejudices of the unthinking--as if it were a crime for a President to be an admirer of horses and dogs, a disgrace to smoke cigars and to keep one's mouth and ears closed to <HI REND="italics">small talk</HI>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A Chapter of Questions.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>I will endeavor to answer several questions after the manner of my countrymen by asking a few others.  Why is it that when men desire the influence or votes of certain parties in politics, they never ask what may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Dr. Holland proposes to try a theory by which to save the lives of thousands of men who perish yearly with a loathsome disease.  (Nothing said about women.)  Woodhull and Claflin are proposing a theory by which to save thousands of women who yearly perish from too much matrimony, or in other words, are protected to death.  (Nothing said about how it will affect men.)  They also desire to create a new race of men.  Did not Horace Greeley and Fowler and Wells create a new race in their time? and although it would be like "putting new wine into old bottles" to get a new idea into their dear old heads now, I believe that the race of men they created were superior in many things to those who preceded them; at any rate, they have put away slavery, and cultivated their phrenological bumps, and upon the whole are more liberal and less bigoted than their grandfathers were.  But, some say Woodhull and Claflin are striking at the very roots of our social institutions; well, suppose they do; they can only stir the <HI REND="italics">dirt</HI>
091.sgm: a little, and in the end that will be better for all concerned.  Have not our institutions been pruned, and pruned at the top until they are decayed in heart, and dwarfed, fertilized and forced, until our young men resemble mushrooms and our women worm-eaten fruit, which falls before ripe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:from early precocity, and withers and decays early on the hands of the disappointed husbandmen.  The thing is clear enough, that the right to govern and free love, and the right to write works upon agriculture, by custom and common consent, have been attributed to man alone, and the right to a religious belief belongs to that class who have the most power to enforce their dogmas upon others.  As a people, we begin to show signs of breaking down the old feudal doctrine that might makes right.  And why, in the name of common sense, will intelligent women cater to the prejudices of a set pusillanimous old <HI REND="italics">fogies</HI>
091.sgm: by writing and endorsing such an article as the one referred, which has for its end and aim the degeneration of any class of women.  Have we not orthodox neighbors who in their dear little Pharisaical hearts not only keep themselves unspotted from the world, but also from the so-called liberalists.  Now this is all right, and shows a disposition upon the part of those people to do as near right as they <HI REND="italics">know how</HI>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>An Appeal to the Business Men of San Francisco.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Knowing, as we do, that the business men of this city have an interest in the good of all mankind, and have every reason to believe womankind included, a self-appointed representative of the latter ventures to make an appeal to your philanthropy:  We desire that more avenues of occupation be opened to women.  There are many coming to this country to escape the severities of a rigorous climate, with the hope of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:recovering health or prolonging life, by breathing the pure air of this beautiful country.  Many of these are women who are depending upon their own efforts for a living.  Some of them wives, who are no less worthy for being "help meets" that may say in the language of the old English poet:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"You buy one loaf, I'll buy two,<LB>And we'll raise up our babies as other folks do."<LB></HI>
091.sgm:<P>Married women are not employed as teachers in the public schools; nor can woman hold office, because she is not a citizen.  The poor working girl can scarcely compete with the Chinaman in the work of the household, and she takes to sewing as "drowning people catch at straws."  And the widow, who depended upon the wash-tub for the support of her family, is crowded into the business of dressmaking, and that is, therefore, overfilled.  We need more room, more varieties of occupation.  We are not bewailing the loss of those lowly occupations; on the contrary, think they have fallen into proper hands.  We are perfectly willing that arduous labor should be performed by masculine muscle and Chinese enterprise.  Nor do we want to crowd men out of employment becoming their muscle or the dignity of manhood.  We hear a great deal about men being wanted to develop the resources of this country--intelligent farmers, etc.  Why not make better use of this masculine element that is engaged selling tape behind the counter?  Why not employ women in shoe stores, in books and stationery, dry goods, and as clerks in the post office?  Would it not be better to let women fill these places than to become leeches on the community or an expense to their masculine friends?</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Confusion of the Anthonys.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>When Susan B. Anthony proposed coming to California, she apprised some of her friends living here of this fact; among others a gentleman residing at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<P>Now it came to pass that an excursion party was returning from Salt Lake, and among this company there came a Mrs. Anthony, who, unlike Susan B., was plump and matronly, and carried the fruits of her appearance in her arms in the form of a rollicking baby about six months old.  In the course of natural events it became necessary to air an article of baby's wardrobe, which was suspended from the car window and the sash closed down to secure it.  In due time the train arrived at the above-mentioned station, and Susan's friend perceiving the supposed signal, came on board, walked to the seat opposite the signaled window, and took the lady's hand, calling her Miss Anthony.  The greeting was returned--not, however, without a blank and a somewhat uncertain look from the lady with the baby.  At this juncture Susan's friend urged the necessity of going immediately to dinner, whereupon the lady remarked that her husband would soon return with provisions for her, and with a puzzled look of inquiry asked if there were not some mistake.  The gentleman replied, "Are you not Susan B. Anthony?"  "My name is Anthony, but not Susan B.," answered the lady.  "How came the signal at the window then?" said Susan's friend.  "O," returned the lady, somewhat embarrassed, "that is an article of baby's."  It is needless to state that the passengers smiled, and that this gentleman, on his way to the platform, put in some remarkably good time.</P>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Adventure with a Pepper.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>Passing a green grocery I observed some young peppers about the size of a minnow, but not having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>I am now a firm believer in latent heat--do not indorse Lord Bacon's theory that "heat in its essence is motion;" on the contrary I think heat in its essence is a small red pepper.  I have been looking in the principles of chemistry for the chapter on heat, and am surprised that there is nothing said about peppers or the pepper family.  The principal scources of heat are said to be the sun, the fixed stars, chemical action and electricity.  I could never forgive those philosophers for their stupidity if I did not flatter myself that I am the first person who has ever discovered a latent hell in a red pepper.  In all that has been said of fire and brimstone and the Thompsonian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>To the Curious.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>An intelligent public can have no possible interest in one's private affairs, and persons who are good judges of human nature well understand that <HI REND="italics">questions</HI>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>What I Know About Sugar Making.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>In the month of March the farmers commence their preparations for sugar making.  Five hundred or a thousand sap buckets (piled away in a storehouse for this purpose) are carefully looked over; if any are found with bottoms displaced or hoops loose, they are tinkered up and fitted for use.  When the season is far enough advanced, so that the snow melts during the day and freezes quite hard at night, the sugar maker goes forth to tap the trees in the sugar-bush.  An instrument called a gouge, made from an iron bar about a foot long and two inches through, is used for tapping.  This is flattened at one end, faced with steel and shaped so as to cut a curved gash two or three inches long.  This gash is made crosswise the tree and about three feet from the bottom.  A wooden spile, split out with the same instrument, of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>The camp-fire is then located.  A couple of immense logs are rolled to together, and polls with stout crotches at the end are driven into the ground near the fire pile; a pole is then placed across, with chains and hooks for the purpose of supporting the kettles used in evaporating the sweet maple fluid.  Puncheons, barrels, hogsheads and large troughs are brought in which to store away the sap.  Great care is taken in gathering the sap that it may not run to waste.  Teams can be sometimee used to advantage in gathering sap, but most of the work must be done by men, as horses or cattle cannot be driven every place in a forest of trees.  The sap is evaporated as rapidly as possible, for it sours as readily as milk, and but an inferior quality of gummy sugar can be made from sap after a chemical change has taken place.  The sap does not run every day alike.  The direction of the wind, the temperature of the thermometer and the different phases of the moon, all serve to produce certain effects upon the trees, well understood by the sugar makers.  As the syrup thickens it assumes a dark nut-brown color.  This comes from the dead leaves, coal, pieces of wood and foreign matter accumulated by boiling it upon an open fire.  If sap is boiled in a tin vessel upon the stove the sugar will be very light and the syrup white as honey.  When the boiling fluid is thick enough to grain it is poured into tin pans or birch baskets to cake.  When cold it is placed in a position to drain.  It will drip thick molasses until the cakes are much lighter in color, and as dry as salt.  As the time for "sugaring off" approaches, the young people get interested in the sugar bush, and many a loafer who manifests little taste for the hardships and drudgery of sugar making, will put in appearance upon "sugar off" occasions.  It is the custom in some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>About Dogs.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>I send this article to you hoping that the city authorities will find it a duty to come to our immediate relief.  A convention of dogs nightly congregate in a certain locality on Auburn street, and make the night hideous with their growling and fighting, and greatly annoy the peaceable inhabitants of that locality.  Some sentimental saphead has said, "Let dogs delight to bark and bite," as I do not find this sublime stanza in either Blackstone or Mother Goose, I am not willing to accept it as the Common Law of the land, and am inclined to think it possesses more of a theological than legal meaning.  Whether these dogs convene for the purpose of conspiring against the <HI REND="italics">rest</HI>
091.sgm: of the inhabitants in the neighborhood, or whether it is to discuss the all-important feminine question, I am unable to state.  It is certain that they meet, however, great dogs and small dogs; the thoroughbred of the aristocrat, and the common cur of the plebeian, all meet upon an equal footing--truly a most Democratic assemblage.  The writer of this has exhausted all the ordinary means of a private citizen in order to bring peace to the afflicted denizens of the locality.  I have thrown old boots and evacuated slippers, my last bar of hard soap, and every available missile to be found in the back yard of a well regulated boarding house.  I now desire to call the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>An Old Settler.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>There is living in Grass Valley a famous old cat who is generally known by the significant cognomen "Stump."  This name was given him because of a shortcoming of the caudal appendage.  Stump has also "bob ears."  It is a matter of wonder to me why he is not called by the latter instead of the former name.  This feline is an old resident of Grass Valley, having lived in the place for the last fifteen years.  He is an immense creature.  When I first saw him I thought he must belong to the wild cat family.  I am told, however, that he is perfectly peaceable in disposition, and that the scratches upon his nose are only the results of exchanging love taps with his neighbors.  I came to the conclusion that his offspring were numerous, from the strong family resemblance to be detected in many of the young felines in the neighborhood.  Stump does very little for the family, I assure you; he is like many men in this respect--so afraid that he might do something for the children of other cats that he will do nothing for his own.  The younger felines may thank the superior industry and diligence of the mother cat, who is generally equal to the task of rearing her offspring, without assistance from relatives.  I realize that cats have always been terribly misrepresented and slandered; but I am speaking only the truth when I say that Stump frequents all the most popular saloons in the vicinity.  He may frequently be seen serenely sitting on a beer keg or counter, looking as if he did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Obituary of Old Stump.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>We are now called upon to record the death of this most worthy creature who was endeared to the sympathizing hearts of this community by the mutual associations of a long and eventful life.  About fifteen years ago this cat was found by a townsman, in a half-starved condition, just as he had been dropped down from the moon or some unknown planet, after the obscure manner of cats.  He was "taken in," fed and cared for in a way characteristic of the inhabitants of Grass Valley; the results were, that in a short time he became able to hunt for himself, and in so doing, to contribute his share of general blessings to the community by keeping rats, mice, small birds, all vermin and dogs within the limited sphere allotted them by nature.  As Stump leaves behind him many living friends and relations, it may be well to mention some of his faults as well as his many virtues.  Misfortune, adventure, disappointment and sorrow is the common lot of all creatures; most especially did this fall true to the early Californians, and Stump shared the common adversities and peculiar social reverses of many an early settler.  His associations were not always what they might have been.  He spent his last days in a saloon.  His last rest was upon a beer keg.  It was a sad, although somewhat interesting sight to see Stump, with other invalids, taking his daily sun bath in the door of his favorite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding his faults (and who has them not?) he played well his part in life, and departed, having the love and toleration of the entire community.  On the 6th of April Stump took an informal leave of his old "stamping" ground; he was found dead by Bob Jeffrey, of the Snug Saloon.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>When poor old Stump was stiff and cold,<LB>Alas! said he, poor Stump was very old.<LB>Jeff may have thought, but nothing more he said;<LB>Just raised his hat and scratched his head,<LB>Drew off his boots and went to bed.<LB></HI>
091.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Inconsistency.</HEAD>
091.sgm:<P>I do not justify, but will defend any woman who will victimize these men at their own games.  Hence a defence for Laura Fair; and, think of it, from one of her own sex!  O! what will come of man's stronghold--of his trite sayings that women do not defend their sex?  The reason I will give you, as I think I can.  Woman's time has been all occupied in the defence of man.  To keep him just respectable for the childrens' sake was all that she could do, and at the same time make her toilet on what was left from mistress and the revenue on cigars and whisky.  Woman, so dependant on these erring lords, could scarce afford to defend an erring sister.  Besides, men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
091.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
091.sgm:<P>Some say that Laura Fair is bad.  What means this shallow twaddle?  Bad?  Bad?  For what, for Heaven's sake?  What has this woman done that she should merit death?  She lived with Crittenden without the sanction of the law; but are the law-makers not greater than the law itself?  Have not these same law-making men taught us from day to day, from our very childhood up, that love of man is virtue, not a vice--and that "all things are fair in love and war?"  This woman is a sample of what your social system is designed to make of any woman who will follow the advice of men.  Do not these very men who frame and execute the law prove what I say most true, by keeping wife and mistress too?  The wife to raise the children and to economize upon; the mistress as a necessary friend when out from home.</P>
091.sgm:<P>Some say that it was not for love that Laura Fair staid with this Crittenden.  Well, if it were not for love, she is not guilty of that so-called crime at least; and if she staid with him for money, I am sure that this accords with what men have always taught us--to depend on them for means.  They say 'tis little that you need at most, and 'twere better to depend on us for that than to soil your dainty fingers.  O man! most noble creature that thou art! to protect weak, defenseless woman.  How touching is this self-denial when he comes to this most trying trial, to make an example of some woman for all mistresses in common; and if she kills a man in a hysteric fit of jealousy she must be hanged, as warning to other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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091.sgm:<HI REND="italics">fairs</HI>
091.sgm: that they must not indulge in hysteric fits.  And as for jealousy, 'tis unbecoming woman.  McFarland's case will prove that this is one of <HI REND="italics">man's</HI>
091.sgm:<P>How does it come that San Francisco justice did not execute the murderer of Carrie Diamond?  How does it come that scores of men have killed their paramours and gone unwhipped of justice?  It seems to me that taking the life of a woman has been looked upon as a matter of common occurrence, and if her character could but be questioned man was justified in slaying her.  If man will but heed the advice that he in arrogance bestows on woman to guide her through the mazy trials of this life, he never need be seduced from child or wife.  That is, let these women alone; stay out of all improper places; take their advances as an insult to his better man, and cultivate life's graces.  The customs of our social life remove from man all moral responsibility--at the same time give him all the power, socially and politically.  It does not punish man for destroying her morality, but woman must be condemned and hanged for destroying <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
093.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-093</TITLE>
093.sgm:<TITLE>Appreciation of loved ones who made life rich for many; my father, John Francis Cross; my mother, Sarah Jane Cross.  By Lilian A. Cross: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
093.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
093.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
093.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
093.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
093.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
093.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
093.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>34-6699</LCCN>
093.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
093.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
093.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Appreciation</P>
093.sgm:<P>of loved ones who made life rich for many.</P>
093.sgm:<P>My Father<HSEP>JOHN FRANCIS CROSS</P>
093.sgm:<P>My Mother<HSEP>SARAH JANE CROSS</P>
093.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">By</HI>
093.sgm:<P>OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA</P>
093.sgm:<P>MCMXXXIII</P>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE</HEAD>
093.sgm:<P>This intimate little story of Mother and Father has been told, that succeeding generations in our family may know something of the character of their California pioneer ancestors; and in the hope that others of my generation may be inspired to pass on to posterity what first-hand knowledge they may possess of those courageous people who came from all parts of the world to contribute their mite to the building of the West.  Records of such first-hand knowledge are comparatively and pitifully few.</P>
093.sgm:<P>LILIAN A. CROSS</P>
093.sgm:<P>1320 East 28th Street,</P>
093.sgm:<P>Oakland, California.</P>
093.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">August, 1933</HI>
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093.sgm:<P>PRINTED BY</P>
093.sgm:<P>THE TRIBUNE PRESS</P>
093.sgm:<P>OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA</P>
093.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>This poem of Longfellow's, entitled "Nature," is I believe, the last verse memorized by Mother, and "When Earth's Last Picture is Painted" is the last one she recited.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB><HI REND="italics">As a fond mother, when the day is o'er,<LB>Leads by the hand her little child to bed,<LB>Half-willing, half-reluctant to be led<LB>And leave his broken playthings on the floor,<LB>Still gazing at them through the open door,<LB>Nor wholly reassured and comforted<LB>By promises of others in their stead<LB>Which, though more splendid, may not please him more;<LB>So Nature deals with us, and takes away<LB> Our playthings, one by one, and by the hand<LB>Leads us to rest so gently, that we go,<LB>Scarce knowing if we wish to go or stay,<LB>Being too full of sleep to understand<LB>How far the unknown transcends the what we know</HI>
093.sgm:<P>--LONGFELLOW</P>
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093.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>PART ONE<LB>PIONEERING DAYS OF THE CROSS<LB>FAMILY<LB>1635 - 1852</HEAD>
093.sgm:<LB><P><HI REND="blockindent"><HI REND="italics">The men whom men approve, and the<LB>women whom women admire, are<LB>the men and women who <LB>bless their species</HI>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter I</HI></HEAD>
093.sgm:<P>A BIT OF BACKGROUND</P><P> WHEN the first census was taken in the United States, in 1790, my great-grandparents, Nathaniel and Martha Woodman Cross, were living in Exeter, New Hampshire, about twenty miles from Ipswich, Massachusetts, where our earliest Colonial ancestor, Robert Crosse, settled in 1635.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Nathaniel's parents were Robert and Anstris Ellery Cross.  This Robert was the great-grandson of that earliest Robert.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The Ellery and Woodman families, also, trace their lines back to early pioneer New Englanders.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Our great-grandparents, Nathaniel and Martha, reared a large family.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In this brief sketch we are concerned principally with one son, Joseph Warren.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In a <HI REND="italics">Genealogy of New Hampshire</HI>
093.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">"The name of Cross has been conspicuous in the annals of Massachusetts and New Hampshire.  The family has been noted for the longevity of its members as well as for sturdiness of character and for mental and physical qualities.  In earliest Colonial days, the name had an `e' at the end."</HI>
093.sgm:<P>In the summer of 1800, Nathaniel and two or more of his sons,--Joseph among them--journeyed from Exeter into the State of Maine.  Here, six miles from Belfast, in what is now Waldo County, he bought a tract of land; he and his sons felled trees, and built a log house, then returned to their home <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>The next spring, Great-Grandmother Martha, and her children--except the eldest three, who had married--moved from Exeter to their new home in Maine, the home that had been provided for them by the husband and father.  We are told that they moved in sleds, drawn by oxen, and that one of the sleds had a little house built on it.  This journey, which now could be taken by automobile in a few hours over a beautifully paved highway, or in a few minutes by airplane, consumed many days.  Hardships there must have been, but we who have seen New England's woods and streams, hills and lakes, in the summer, know there were some compensations for the hardships.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In time, they reached this new home, which was to be great-grandmother's as long as she lived.  Her death occurred in 1840.  Her sons and daughters married and settled near her.  Joseph Warren was the one who remained on the original farm with his mother.  In 1804, he married Lucy Jackson, daughter of Isaac and Submit Scott Jackson, of Paris, Maine.  The Jackson family, too, is an old New England one, dating back to the earliest Colonists.  Great-grandfather Isaac Jackson served in the Revolutionary War, thus making his descendants eligible to become Sons and Daughters of the Order of the American Revolution.</P>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter II</HI>
093.sgm:<P>INTRODUCING MY FATHER</P>
093.sgm:<P>JOHN FRANCIS CROSS, my Father, was born on the Cross homestead, in the State of Maine, near Belfast, February 13, 1828.  He was the youngest of twelve children--six sons and six daughters--of Joseph Warren and Lucy Jackson Cross.</P>
093.sgm:<P>A quarter of a mile away, on the next farm, there lived Samuel Jackson, brother of Lucy, with his wife, Patty--or Martha--who was a sister of Joseph Warren.  To quote a descendant of theirs, "Samuel Jackson and Joseph Cross swapped sisters."</P>
093.sgm:<P>The two marriages had occurred within a short time of each other, and their children grew up together.  Samuel and Patty reared twelve children, also, and according to my best authority, theirs, too, were six sons and six daughters.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In my Father's home, besides the parents and the twelve children, grandfather's mother, she who had pioneered into the woods of Maine in 1801, made her home, living there till her death at the age of eighty-nine.  And in the home of Aunt Patty, she reared not only her own twelve, but three grandsons as well.</P>
093.sgm:<P>We have been told that when a member of either family wanted to get up a "party," all he had to do was to "get out in the road and holler."</P>
093.sgm:<P>These Cross and Jackson farms bordered on Cross Pond, said by a Maine historian to be the largest pond in Waldo County.  It is a mile long and half a mile wide.  Here these twenty-four double cousins, and probably many of the other young people of the neighborhood, learned to swim and to skate.  Truly, Cross Pond was the setting for many a "party," summer and winter.</P>
093.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>It was in this environment that Frank, as my Father was called, grew up.  He had two playmates of about his own age, "Hen" and "Alf" Jackson.  Henry was Aunt Patty's youngest son, and Alfred was one of the grandsons she "brought up."  Henry's mother was a little woman, known to neighbors as well as to relatives, as "Aunt Patty."  It seems to have been characteristic of the Cross and Jackson families that the men were large, the women small.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Children, at that time and in that place, had little opportunity for book-learning.  There were few books except the Bible and the New England Almanac, and school was maintained for only a few weeks in the year.</P>
093.sgm:<P>I recall hearing of only one incident connected with my Father's very early education, and that illustrates the sense of humor he possessed, even at that early age.  This story was told by "Alf" Jackson at a family gathering in 1888, when Father and Mother were on a visit to their old home.  Because of some little mischief one Friday afternoon, Frank's teacher sent him to stand behind the door.  When school was dismissed, the teacher forgot the child, and went home, leaving him there.  Of course, he immediately dismissed himself; but on Monday morning he arrived early, and again took his place behind the door.  When the teacher discovered him, and asked him why he was there, he told her, with a twinkle in his eye, that she had put him there Friday.  It is not at all likely that for even one startled instant, the teacher pictured that small child spending the week-end in that otherwise deserted schoolhouse, a few rods from his home.  I like to think that the teacher, too, had a sense of humor, and that she appreciated the little boy's joke.</P>
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093.sgm:<P>New England farm folk of a century and more ago, had little time to think of hardships, if indeed they considered they had any.  There was work to be done, and it seems they were happy in doing it.  People who had made their homes in the Maine wilderness, had to be self-reliant.  Clearings were made; there was plenty of fine timber from which houses and barns were built; stones were picked up and made into walls between the farms,--stone walls that still stand as monuments to those hardy, pioneer New Englanders.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Every farm furnished its own food and clothing.  Every farmer had cows, milk, butter and cheese.  Maize or Indian corn was one of the earliest staples grown.  Besides the domestic animals raised for food, wild game was plentiful in the woods.  The streams and ponds abounded in fish.  The finest apples in the world grew--and still grow--in those New England orchards; and the vegetable gardens, watered as they were by frequent summer rains, produced the finest potatoes, corn, beans, onions, peas, squash and cabbages to be found anywhere.  Not only through the summer months could our grandparents enjoy the fruits of their gardens.  In the large underground cellars, bins were built, in which vegetables were stored for winter use.  Large bins of apples were there, too; barrels of cider, barrels of meat, and of salt fish.  Maple trees furnished every family with sugar and syrup.  Nuts grew in great variety in the woods, and many wild berries, from the strawberries of early summer to the cranberries gathered in October.</P>
093.sgm:<P>There being no stoves then, cooking for grandmother's large family was done in their big open fireplace.  Most of the clothing worn by herself and her family was made by those busy hands.  Beds were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>Grain raised on the farms must be taken to the mill to be ground.  Smith's Mill was built on a stream two miles from the Cross home.  In time the village of Morrill grew up about this mill, a church was built, a village schoolhouse, stores, a Post Office and pretty homes.</P>
093.sgm:<P>This being much nearer than Belfast, the Cross family attended church in Morrill.  Grandfather was long a deacon in the church.  My Mother, who also attended there, said one of her early recollections was that of seeing Deacon Cross in the church choir, and she described him as "a fine-looking man, tall and spare, very erect, with snowy hair and very blue eyes."  My Mother did not know then that she was to become his daughter-in-law.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Perhaps Belfast had a physician at that time, but he was called seldom, if ever, by grandmother.  In the first place, she and grandfather had come of healthy, long-lived people, and their children were healthy.  Like their ancestors and their neighbors, our grandparents had great faith in home remedies.  Had they not been compelled to depend for generations upon herbs from the woods and from their gardens?  Grandmother and Aunt Patty doctored their children when they needed doctoring, using common sense and herbs, or whatever was at hand best suited to the occasion; and we must admit that they had at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>There is no doubt that the grandmother of these twenty-four children, herself the mother of four daughters and seven sons, was a great help in the rearing of these two families, living as she did, intimately in their homes until the youngest in grandfather's family was twelve years of age.</P>
093.sgm:<P>These early New Englanders were famed for their neighborliness, which has been said to be next to godliness with them.  No one ever turned to his neighbor in vain, whether he needed friendly advice, or help in sickness, or another hand at house-raising.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Independence amounted to almost a religion with them.  They must be self-sufficient in material things.  They abhorred the thought of needing charity.  And this spirit of independence, born beyond the Atlantic, and strengthened by two hundred years "on the stern and rockbound coast" of New England, was handed down to their children and their children's children.  And something else these fine New Englanders possessed to an unusual degree was "that little spark of celestial fire called conscience."</P>
093.sgm:<P>They had long winters and they prepared for them.  Wood must be piled high in the wood shed.  Tradition tells us that the Crosses were famed for having an extra big amount of wood for winter.  Shelter must be provided for the livestock.  Buildings were so constructed, one adjoining another, that a farmer could go from his house, through the wood shed, wagon shed and hen houses, to his barn, without going out of doors.</P>
093.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>And the summers!  People come from all parts of the world to spend their summers on the coast of Maine.  Our ancestors spent their lives there, surrounded by lakes and streams and wooded hills that overlook picturesque Penobscot Bay.</P>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter III</HI>
093.sgm:<P>LEARNING A TRADE</P>
093.sgm:<P>MY FATHER was the only one of Joseph and Lucy Cross's children who left his native State.  His sisters and brothers married and settled within a short distance of their parents, most of them in Waldo County, where they had been born.  Here they reared their families, lived their lives, and went to their final rest.  Some of them lie in the family burial ground on the Cross homestead; others, two miles away in the village cemetery in Morrill.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Father went to Belfast when he was eighteen, to learn the carpenter's trade.  I have a small notebook that belonged to him at that time.  Among its few scattered entries are the following:</P>
093.sgm:<P>"October 6, 1846, John F. Cross went to work for A. R. Boynton."  This was probably the first time he had gone to work for Mr. Boynton, he learned his trade.</P>
093.sgm:<P>"Left work at A. R. Boynton's December 10, 1846, to go to school."  There being little work for carpenters during the winter months, the young man took that opportunity to get a few weeks of schooling.</P>
093.sgm:<P>"February 10, 1847, returned from school to work for A. R. B."</P>
093.sgm:<P>"August 5, 1847, went home four days, and came back not able to work.  Worked a little on the 14th."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>"December 11, 1847, went to school."  In another place there is mention of his being with Mr. Boynton May 5, 1848.</P>
093.sgm:<P>After Father had finished learning his trade, he worked in Belfast for a while.  In 1850, when he was twenty-two years of age, he went to Massachusetts, where he worked at carpentering for nearly two years.  I remember hearing him speak of working on a building on Harvard Campus some time in 1850 or 1851.  One of the college professors, passing him daily, took an interest in the young man, and tried to induce him to get more education.  But Father had not had enough schooling to furnish a foundation for college; and besides, this young carpenter was receiving good pay and liked his work.  He had already begun to think of California, hearing much talk from men, old and young, who were getting the "gold fever."  Father had little of the gambling spirit.  He was not attracted so much by the gold mines as he was by the high wages paid to carpenters in California.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Being as he was, naturally industrious and thrifty, he had already saved up quite a sum by the time he decided to come West.  He had selected a Maine girl for his future wife.  He meant to make the trip to this land of gold where he could earn a fortune in a few years, then return to Maine.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In the early spring of 1852 he went home to tell his mother and father goodbye, and to obtain a promise from Miss Sarah Meservey that she would wait for him.  He saw his family and obtained the promise.</P>
093.sgm:<P>On March 26, 1852, he sailed from New York on the steamer <HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
093.sgm:, bound for the Isthmus of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>In a <HI REND="italics">History of Sacramento County</HI>
093.sgm:, published by the Lewis Publishing Company, Chicago, in 1890, there is a brief biographical sketch of my Father (page 696).  That article says he left New York on the steamer <HI REND="italics">North America</HI>
093.sgm:.  To be certain that I was right, I recently wrote to the New York city public library to learn what boat left New York on that date.  The reply assured me that it was the <HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
093.sgm: that sailed on March 26, 1852.  I cannot account for the mistake made in the <HI REND="italics">History of Sacramento County</HI>
093.sgm:<P>Many young men from the Atlantic Coast, who wished to come to California in the "Days of Forty-nine," but who were unable to pay for a first-class passage, came as steerage passengers First-class tickets were very expensive, and although my Father had the money, earned by himself, to purchase any kind of a ticket he desired, he decided to try the steerage.  What other New England boys had done, he thought he could do.  But the first day out, he gladly paid the difference and moved upstairs into a cabin.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Father loved the water, was never seasick, and must have greatly enjoyed the trip from New York to San Francisco.  The passengers were a day or two on land when they went up the Chagres River and crossed the Isthmus.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The journey from the Isthmus to San Francisco was made on the <HI REND="italics">Winfield Scott</HI>
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093.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
093.sgm:<HEAD>PART TWO<LB>
093.sgm:<P>1852-1892 <HI REND="blockindent"><HI REND="italics">When to the sessions of sweet, silent thought I summon up remembrance of things past, I sigh the lack of many a thing I sought</HI>
093.sgm:<P>--SHAKESPEARE <HI REND="blockindent"><HI REND="italics">"'Tis the human touch in this world that counts, The touch of your hand and mine, That means far more to the fainting heart Than shelter or bread or wine</HI>
093.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><HI REND="italics">For shelter is gone when the night is o'er, And bread lasts only a day; But the touch of a hand and the sound of a voice Live in the heart alway</HI>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter IV</HI>
093.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA</P>
093.sgm:<P>ON REACHING California, true to his purpose, Father obtained work, as a carpenter, for a few weeks in Sacramento, from which place he went to Shasta City, a busy mining town of several thousand people, six miles west of the present town of Redding.  This place, once the county seat of Shasta County, and claiming the distinction of having the oldest Masonic Lodge in California, has a population now of probably not more than one hundred.  Perhaps the young carpenter may have mined a little here, but I do not remember having heard that he did.  Then for a while, in company with others, Father rafted timber down the Sacramento River.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In later years, when he recalled this period, he was reminded of a night when he and another young man had made their beds in a woodsy place on the river bank.  Father was suddenly awakened in the middle of the night by loud snoring.  Looking cautiously about in the semi-darkness he discovered a big black bear asleep a few feet away from them.  The young man woke his companion and after a brief whispered consultation, they quietly withdrew, leaving that entire bed site to the bear.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In the summer or fall of 1852, Father worked at Fort Reading.  This fort was built in 1852 for the purpose of holding unruly Indians in check.  It was named for Pierson B. Reading, Shasta County's earliest pioneer, on whose "grant" of 26,000 acres the fort was built.  The only part of it still standing in 1933 is a barn, and I have reason for thinking Father probably built that barn.  In the first place, not many carpenters could be hired then, as most men, whatever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>From Fort Reading, the young carpenter went to Benicia, and obtained work at the United States Arsenal.  He liked Benicia and bought a lot down town and put up a shop, where he did cabinet work and odd jobs of carpentering.  I recall hearing that he sometimes made as much as sixteen dollars a day.  I think he received eight or ten dollars a day at the Arsenal.  Although wages were good, expenses were correspondingly high.  There were living quarters above the shop, where he and two other young men "batched" for a short time.  No doubt, a record of their housekeeping experiences would be entertaining.</P>
093.sgm:<P>A little less than two years after his arrival in California, my Father returned to Maine to be married.  It had been arranged by letter that he and Sarah Meservey should be married, and that he would bring his bride to California, where they would remain until they had saved money enough to go back to Maine and live in comfort the rest of their lives.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The year before Father returned home for his bride, Benicia had become the Capital of California, and there was plenty of work for builders.  The Legislature met there, however, but twice, and voted during that second session to move to Sacramento, where the use of the new Court House was offered, with safes and vaults, together with a deed to the block of land bounded by I and J, 9th and 10th Streets.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The Legislature adjourned to Sacramento, meeting in the Court House there March 1, 1854.  Since that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>In 1856 the Legislature provided for the issue of bonds to the amount of $300,000 for the erection of a State House on the above-described block.  A Board of Commissioners was appointed, plans were drawn up and approved, the contract let for $200,000, and the ground broken for the building on December 4.  But on December 15, the commissioners refused to issue the bonds because the Supreme Court had decided that the State had no authority to contract so large a debt.  The contractor brought suit, but was defeated.  The work was stopped, and the land was deeded back.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In 1860, the Supervisors deeded to the State the tract of land bounded by L and N, 10th and 12th Streets, and the Legislature appropriated $500,000 for the erection of the Capitol Building.  The cornerstone was laid May 15, 1861, but because of changes and delays, it was not completed till the fall of 1869.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In Benicia, the dignified old State House still stands, a sort of monument to that little city on Carquinez Strait, that four score years ago gave promise of being a metropolis of the Pacific Coast.</P>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter V</HI>
093.sgm:<P>INTRODUCING MOTHER</P>
093.sgm:<P>SARAH JANE MESERVEY was born near Belfast, Maine, March 12, 1835.  Her, father, like her husband's father, was a farmer.  The Cross and Meservey farms were perhaps four miles apart, on opposite sides of the village of Morrill.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Sarah was the eldest daughter, and second child of Charles Meservey, Jr., and Sarah Smith Meservey.  Her father was the only son of Charles Meservey, Sr. and Mary Cookson Meservey.  My grandfather had but one sister.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Although the name is an old one in New England, I have been able to get very little data on our line.  I have learned that the first one of that name to settle in America came from the Isle of Jersey on the coast of France.  The name of that first settler was spelled Meserve, pronounced in three syllables, and no doubt it was to preserve that pronunciation that some of the descendants of that earliest Meserve changed the spelling of the name.  It is now spelled Meservey and Meservie, as well as Meserve.</P>
093.sgm:<P>My Mother had two sisters and two brothers.  In recalling her childhood, she loved to remember the long winter evenings, when her sisters, her brothers and herself lay on buffalo robes or bear skins, before a big open fire and listened to stories told by her father, while her mother was spinning.  One of the children's favorite stories was of their grandmother Cookson.  She must have known more about caring for the sick than did other settlers about them, for it seems she was called by neighbors, far as well as near.</P>
093.sgm:<P>One dark night, so the story goes, she was returning home from a visit to a distant neighbor who was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>Mother used to tell us of their early school days.  When the snow was deep, grandfather would take the children to school on a sled drawn by oxen, picking up the other children who lived along that road.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Sarah was fond of books, and was determined to get all the schooling possible, at that time in that place.  She went to the district school all of the short terms, and when these terms were ended, she walked two miles to the village school in Morrill.  The district schoolhouse was the typical red one of New England, sitting by the side of the road in the edge of the woods.  Mother described these woods as beautiful in the summer, with their varied shades of green; in the fall, gay with autumn colors; and equally beautiful in the winter, with the trees bending under a weight of snow.</P>
093.sgm:<P>My Mother was an earnest pupil, taking great pride in her scholarship.  She was an excellent reader, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>In June, 1850, when Mother was fifteen years of age, she was granted a certificate to teach.  The previous March 4, just before her fifteenth birthday, she was recommended by her teacher.  Below is a copy of his recommendation:</P>
093.sgm:<P>"March 4, 1850.</P>
093.sgm:<P>"This certifies that Miss Sarah J. Meservey has attended my school and that she is in my opinion well qualified to instruct in the various branches of learning usually taught in our public schools.</P>
093.sgm:<P>"DAVID PIERCE."</P>
093.sgm:<P>Mother had to pass an examination before taking charge of her first school in June, 1850, in Montville.  This was four miles from home, and she received $1.25 a week and her board.</P>
093.sgm:<P>This is a copy of the certificate given her to teach this Montville school:</P>
093.sgm:<P>"Montville, June 17, 1850.</P>
093.sgm:<P>"To Whom it May Concern:</P>
093.sgm:<P>"This certifies that we have examined Miss Sarah J. Meservey of <ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
093.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">Belmont was the early name of that township--later Morrill.</NOTE>
093.sgm:<P>"J. ERSKINE, <HI REND="italics">Supt. of Schools</HI>
093.sgm:<P>S. BRYANT,</P>
093.sgm:<P>M. C. TWITCHELL,</P>
093.sgm:<P>W. MASON, <HI REND="italics">Committee</HI>
093.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>The young teacher enjoyed that first school, and was very happy with her fifteen pupils.  Some of the girls were as old as she, some older, but the boys were little ones.  When a boy in Maine reached the age of twelve, he generally had to hoe corn and potatoes in the summer, depending upon the short winter terms to get his schooling.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The following winter, Mother was at home again, going to school, for she wanted to prepare herself for a larger school and more salary.  This she did, and the next summer, for a three months' term, she taught in North Searsmont, a little village where she had thirty pupils and was paid two dollars a week.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The next winter, she went to school again.  She recalled in later years, the evening writing school and the twenty young people, each writing by the light of his own tallow candle.  Spelling schools were frequent that winter.  It was my Mother's last winter in school, and she spoke of it as her happiest.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The next summer, she taught in Searsmont village, where, during the winter, two teachers were employed.  The summer school had between forty and fifty pupils, and the teacher was paid two dollars and fifty cents a week, and board.  Mother never "boarded around," as teachers did sometimes in an early day.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In all three of her summer positions as teacher, Sarah liked her pupils, she had good boarding places, and was very happy to be earning what at that time was quite a sum for a young girl to earn.  But already looking forward to being married, she was willing to earn more money.  There was a shoe factory in the village of Searsmont, and the women in the town used to bind shoes for five cents a pair.  They were low, kid shoes.  My Mother, always good with a needle, learned to do this work, and was so expert at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>Some descendant of that young teacher may smile at the idea of anyone at anytime doing anything to add so little as fifty cents to a monthly salary.  But, as you have seen, Sarah was ambitious and industrious; her future husband in California was being paid more in one day than she received in a month; she was soon to be married and she could think of many things she might add to her trousseau.  While you smile, you may be proud that you had a grandmother who, at the age of seventeen, had so much ability, was so resourceful and so independent.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The following winter, Sarah went to make her first visit to her mother's parents, who lived on a farm in Hollis, on the beautiful Saco River, eighteen miles from Portland, and perhaps a hundred from Belfast.  She and her father were two days making the journey by sleigh.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Her grandparents persuaded her father to leave her with them the remainder of the winter, and when spring came, she stayed on and taught the district school near her grandfather's.</P>
093.sgm:<P>During the weeks preceding the opening of school she worked at something she had never done before, making men's linen coats.  There being no sewing machines, men's coats, vests and pants that were to be bought in the stores, were made by hand, many of them by the farmers' wives.  An uncle's thrifty wife, having time to spare after doing her own carding and spinning and weaving, sewing and knitting, and housework, worked on these coats and vests, and she taught Sarah.  My Mother loved the work, and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>After her school closed, she went home, going to Portland by stage, and from there by boat to Belfast, where her father met her.  This had been Sarah's first long absence from home, and she was glad to be back with her family and neighbors.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Mother had so liked the making of summer coats that she decided to go into a tailor's shop in Belfast and learn to make men's nice, custom-made suits.  Her father obtained a place for her in Mr. Hilton's tailor shop, where a half-dozen girls were employed.  All the pay she received at first was her board, which Mr. Hilton paid in a home where my Mother was very happy.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Sarah was working in Mr. Hilton's shop when Frank Cross returned from California, on March 9, 1854.  He meant to be in Maine only a month, and he was desirous that they should be married very soon, that his wife might accompany him on his visits to his relatives.</P>
093.sgm:<P>While the bride-to-be was well supplied with clothes, she had not expected the young man quite so early in the month, and she had not yet bought her wedding dress.  Frank looked so fine in his new clothes and his tall silk hat, all recently purchased in New York, Sarah must have time to make herself fine, too, and they were not married until a week from the day of his arrival.</P>
093.sgm:<P>On March 10, they went to Belfast, where material for the wedding dress was purchased.  It was taken to a dressmaker, who was able to give the young lady a fitting the next day.  Mother also bought black silk velvet of which to make a circular cape.  The cape had a quilted silk lining, near the shade of the dress, which was a beautiful, brocaded silk, rather olive in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter VI</HI>
093.sgm:<P>THEIR MARRIAGE</P>
093.sgm:<P>ON MARCH 16, 1854, John Francis Cross and Sarah Jane Meservey were married in Belfast, by the Reverend Cazneau Palfrey, a Unitarian minister.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Grandfather Meservey gave the bride silver--six teaspoons, two tablespoons and one dessert spoon.  They are the thin silver that was used then.  These teaspoons were our only ones for many years, and in constant use.  We still have them, and every spoon bears unmistakable evidence of where my Mother's children cut their teeth.  Grandfather also gave the bride a dozen steel knives and forks.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Grandmother's gift to her daughter was bedding, and we still have two of the covers.  One is of cotton, pieced and quilted; the other is a very large wool quilt.  The wool for this grew on the sheep on grandfather's farm.  Grandmother carded the wool and spun it, after which she wove it into cloth, and sent it away to be dyed.  Then she made it into this quilt, dark brown on one side, light brown on the other, and she quilted it in beautiful patterns.  The filling of this cover is also wool from the backs of grandfather's sheep.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Between their marriage and their departure for the West, the bride and groom spent their four weeks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<illus entity="a093-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SARAH JANE CROSS JOHN FRANCIS CROSS <HI REND="italics">Their Wedding Day--March</HI>
093.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>But the time came at last for them to go, as their steamer was to leave New York, April 20, and Frank wanted to show Sarah something of Boston and New York.  It was their intention, as it had been Frank's, two years before, to be gone perhaps five years, then return to Maine, buy a good farm and settle down.  With this in mind, it was not so hard to say goodbye to families and friends.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The couple left Belfast on the evening of April 13.  During that night trip from Belfast to Boston, Mother was seasick, but quickly recovered on landing, and enjoyed seeing Boston for two days.  Father took her to Cambridge and Lawrence and other places where he had worked.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Going from Boston to New York the bride was again very seasick, and her husband told her that if she would rather return to Maine than risk a month's seasickness, he would take her home, then make the journey alone.  My Mother would not entertain such a thought, and on April 20, as planned, they left New York on <HI REND="italics">The Star of the West</HI>
093.sgm:.  I have a photostat copy of a page of the <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
093.sgm:<P>Father paid $250 each for their tickets from New York to San Francisco.  They had three trunks.  The staterooms were good, the meals fine, and what a wonderful honeymoon would have been theirs, if the young wife had not been ill every day of the time.  She hardly sat up an hour of the whole month, except when they crossed the Isthmus.  But ill as she was, she never regretted the choice she had made in New York to stay with her husband.</P>
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093.sgm:<P>I have heard my parents speak of a young man on the steamer who had come from near their home in Maine.  He was able to purchase only a steerage ticket.  He had come from a good, clean home, and when Father learned of his being in the steerage, he felt so sorry for him that he made a plan.  He obtained permission to bring the young man up to their stateroom.  This opened directly out of the dining hall, and their places at table were quite near their door.  Mother never ate a meal during the entire trip.  It was all paid for just the same as if she had eaten.  Father would fill the extra plate and take it in to the stateroom, where this homesick young man enjoyed many a delicious meal.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The steamer made one stop between New York and Nicaragua, and that was at Kingston, on the island of Jamaica, where the passengers were able to go ashore while the boat took on coal.  They came back bringing oranges, bananas and pineapples, and beautiful flowers, such as few of them had ever seen before.</P>
093.sgm:<P>At Nicaragua the passengers left the steamer and took small boats up the narrow, shallow San Juan River.  These boats were kept in motion by natives, almost naked, who either walked in the water, pushing the boats before them, or on the river bank.  Despite the tropical heat, the passengers were thrilled at the sight of the plants and vines and trees, gay with flowers and bright birds, that bordered the river.  In one place, all the passengers had to get off the boats and walk for a short distance, owing to difficulty in getting the boats up the rapids.  It was a rough trail, and my Mother said that Father tried to keep up the spirits of those about him, by marching along ahead, merrily singing, "Jordan is a hard road to travel."  At the end of an all-day trip up the San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>The baggage was behind them, and it seemed advisable for the men who had trunks to wait here at Virgin Bay for the baggage to overtake them.  My Father was among those who waited, while the women and children and the single men who had only such luggage as they could carry, went on across the bay to a place where they were to stay two nights and a day.  The weather was extremely hot, and the mosquitoes so large and numerous that a person would no sooner lie down at night than he would wish it were time to get up.  The beds were canvas cots, each with a single sheet; the tables were bare boards, the benches bare and hard, but Mother had a respite from seasickness, and was hungry enough to eat the simple food provided.  I remember hearing her speak of the monkeys that swung from rafter to rafter all night, looking down and apparently gossiping to each other about these hundreds of strange looking creatures, here today and gone tomorrow.</P>
093.sgm:<P>From Virgin Bay to Graytown, where the passengers were to take the steamer for San Francisco, there was a ride of twelve miles on the back of a mule or a donkey.  My Mother had never ridden an animal before, and perhaps her mount suspected it, for he refused to keep up with the donkey ahead, on which my Father was riding.  The problem of keeping him going was solved by Father, who tied the bridle of Mother's mule to the tail of the one he rode.  Thus they reached Graytown.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
093.sgm:, on which these hundreds of travelers were to complete their journey, was anchored a short distance from shore, and passengers and baggage had to be carried out to the steamer by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>On the Atlantic side, Mr. and Mrs. Cross had a stateroom to themselves.  On the <HI REND="italics">Sierra Nevada</HI>
093.sgm:<P>On the Pacific, the bride was as seasick as she had been on the Atlantic.  She did not eat a meal until they reached San Francisco.</P>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter VII</HI>
093.sgm:<P>BENICIA</P>
093.sgm:<P>THEIR one night in San Francisco was spent at the "What Cheer House"--on the corner of Sacramento and Montgomery Streets--for long a well-known hostelry, now a memory.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In the afternoon of the next day, they took a river boat for Benicia, where they became guests of the "Solano," the leading hotel of the town--and still standing, in 1933--being used now as a rooming house.  After a day or two at the "Solano," the couple obtained room and board with Mr. and Mrs. Henry Hyde, where they remained a few weeks until they found a house they could rent.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Father was always an advocate of people's owning their homes, so they rented only until he could build a house of their own. This was a comfortable little home, three rooms finished on the first floor, with room for two more, upstairs.  As Father had work at the Arsenal, most of this time, he was kept busy.  He also made most of the furniture for their home, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>When Mother and Father went to housekeeping, they lived next door to Mr. and Mrs. Lewis Sanborn.  They, like Mr. and Mrs. Hyde, were young New Englanders, the former couple from New Hampshire, the latter from Massachusetts.  Mr. Sanborn and Mr. Hyde were carpenters, also, and it was quite natural that the three New England brides should become friends.</P>
093.sgm:<P>When my parents arrived in Benicia, they intended to remain there, but after the Legislature had voted to move the Capital to Sacramento, business became less brisk, and was so dull by May, 1855, that Father decided it would be best for them to move to Sacramento.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The removal of the Capital was a blow to Benicia, but it was only one of many dealt that historic little city.  With her superior natural advantages, she had reason, very early in her history, to be sanguine of the future.  In 1849 the United States Arsenal was established there, and Benicia became the military and naval headquarters of the Pacific Coast.  The next year, it also became the headquarters of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, with its docks and shops and depots.  At one time Benicia was the county seat of Solano County.  For several decades, beginning in the early '50's, this little town, with its several boarding schools, was known as the "Athens of the Pacific."</P>
093.sgm:<P>The first Protestant church ever built in California was erected in Benicia in 1849.</P>
093.sgm:<P>These things are all history, but I mention them because I do not wish to hurry my parents from the little city in which they had hoped to make their permanent home, and to which I came a long time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>The year my people spent in Benicia had been a very happy one, one they always loved to remember.  They liked the climate and they liked the people, most of whom, like themselves, were young, beginning life in a new world.  It was here in Benicia their first child was born, a very welcome, healthy little daughter, Nettie; here dear friendships were formed that were not to be broken until death.  Mr. and Mrs. Hyde, Mr. and Mrs. Sanborn, and Mr. and Mrs. Ethan Grant were among these lifelong friends.</P>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter VIII</HI>
093.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO</P>
093.sgm:<P>ARRIVING in Sacramento, as they did, in the early summer, they found hot weather.  They also found mosquitoes, and they could not help being a little homesick for Benicia, but they felt that their move had been for the better, and Father bought two lots on the corner of 14th and I Streets, and on one of them, he built a four-room house for them to live in.  Their home was in a good part of town.  Ex-Governor Bigler lived across the street, and Judge Clark in the next block; but despite the fact that they were in a good neighborhood, my parents had two unpleasant little experiences at 14th and I Streets.  One night their flock of a dozen hens was stolen, which was quite a loss, considering the then high price of poultry and eggs.  Another night, when Mother had trustingly left her washing on the line, she looked out in the morning to find the line bare.  When every garment had to be made by hand, and when material was not so plentiful, that, too, was a loss not easily or quickly replaced.</P>
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093.sgm:<P>My folks attended the Baptist Church, which was on Fourth Street between K and L.  This is the church where O. C. Wheeler was long the pastor.  It also furnished the setting for the famous "double-headed" Democratic Convention on July 18, 1854.</P>
093.sgm:<P>During their two years in Sacramento, Mother and Father made a few friends, who, like some of those in Benicia, were lifelong.  Mr. and Mrs. Holmes, who are mentioned later, were near neighbors, and became close friends.  Among the men my Father knew, was Mr. Smart, from Maine, who had a garden just outside the city.  His daughter Amanda lived with him, and he invited Father to bring his wife and baby to see this daughter.  The invitation was accepted and this was the beginning of a very dear friendship.  A few years later, Miss Amanda Smart became the wife of Alonzo Greenlaw, who was also from the State of Maine.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Mother and Alonzo Greenlaw had been classmates in the village school in Morrill.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Neither of my folks liked the hot dusty summers, nor the cold, wet winters of Sacramento, and they were glad when an opportunity came for them to go into the country.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Out on the Nevada Road, about six miles from Sacramento, there had arisen a need for a school.  One of the leading men of the community, proprietor of the "Star House," came to see my Father and offered him the work of building a schoolhouse.  Before a school at that time could draw public money, it must be maintained at private expense for a term of six months.  When it was learned that Mr. Cross's wife had been a teacher, she was offered a position for this six-months' term.  She went before the Sacramento County Board of Education, passed an examination, and was granted a certificate to teach.</P>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter  IX</HI>
093.sgm:<P>COUNTRY LIFE</P>
093.sgm:<P>THEY rented their house in town, and on April 1, 1857, they moved into the country.  Here they lived in a big, two-story roadhouse known as the "Seaman House."  The old bar-room was turned into a schoolroom, so the housekeeping and teaching were both done under one roof.  Nettie, two and a half years of age, was little trouble, being healthy and happy and a great favorite with the school children.</P>
093.sgm:<P>One of the boys who attended that little school seventy-six years ago, and the last survivor of the group, was Thomas M. Burns, whose death occurred in May of this year, 1933.  As a very young man, he pioneered into Humboldt County and became one of its leading stockmen.  The friendship begun in that far-away time out on the old Nevada Road, lasted a lifetime.  After Mother's death, Mr. Burns, then an old man, wrote me a beautiful letter.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The young couple liked this rolling, timbered country, and after Father had finished the schoolhouse, he took up a quarter section of land, built a small house on it, and as it was mostly a stock country, he bought a few cows.  But litigation was then going on.  Samuel Norris claimed over 44,000 acres as a Spanish grant, and before the little new house was finished, the grant was legally confirmed to Norris, and there was nothing for the settlers to do but to move off.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It was necessary for Father to find a place suitable for his few head of stock.  A friend told him of a small farm for sale between the forks of the American River, at Negro Hill.  This was four miles from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>Father went to see the place, and was delighted with it.  There was a comfortable little house and a barn, a few fruit trees and berry vines, sixty acres of cleared land, plenty of water, plenty of woodland pasture, and with miners all about them, there was market for all the milk their cows could produce.</P>
093.sgm:<P>But not until they had been living there some time did they learn of the prevalence of malaria.</P>
093.sgm:<P>There were few women neighbors.  The nearest was Mrs. Williams, whose family consisted of only herself and her husband, who was a miner.  She loved our little Nettie, and would often borrow her for a whole day.  The Williams' home consisted of two whitewashed cabins, connected by a grape arbor and covered by climbing rosebushes that seemed ever in bloom.  One cabin was kitchen and dining room, the other, living room and bedroom.  As the friendship between Mrs. Williams and our folks lasted many years, we all knew her kind heart and her spotlessly-kept cabin home.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It soon became evident to my folks that nearly everyone in that community had malaria.  That first summer in haying time Father was quite ill with malaria for several weeks.  Mother's older brother, who spent a year or two in California, was mining at Coloma, and he came and cut the hay.  Then he, too, became ill.  There were seven or eight cows to be milked, and the milk to be carried to the miners.  Mother, who knew very little about milking, hired Ah Ki, a Chinese, to help her.  Ah Ki knew where all the miners' cabins were, so he could deliver the milk; and although he had to be taught how to milk <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>Later in the summer, Nettie had malaria, but Mother was comparatively free from it until the following spring, when she, too, became ill.  Father kept from having malaria that second summer by taking quinine, but my folks decided they did not want to live where they must take medicine all the time to be well.  Father once more began to look about for a new home, one where malaria was unknown.</P>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter X</HI>
093.sgm:<P>CENTER TOWNSHIP</P>
093.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">MOTHER</HI>
093.sgm:<P>When Father bought this land, it had not been improved.  None of it had been cleared, no fences had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>There could be no better neighbors than these pioneers of Center Township, and however busy my folks were, they were well and happy.</P>
093.sgm:<P>There was considerable oak timber on the place, and that first winter a man was hired to do some clearing.  Sacramento furnished the market for the settlers' wood.</P>
093.sgm:<P>When those pioneers built their fences, there was more work to it than there is about fence building today.  They had to split the posts from oak trees, which, of course, must first be felled.  Then the post holes must be dug.  Then, as that was long before wire was used for fencing, boards must be nailed to the posts. Most fences were three or four boards high, some more.  Then on each side of a fence, its whole length, a ditch was dug.  This ditch was perhaps two feet deep and was made to discourage stock from trespassing.  Because of the ditch, an animal could not get a "purchase" on the fence.  With the coming into use of barbed wire for fencing--years later--ditches were no longer necessary.  Occasionally an old one may still be seen.</P>
093.sgm:<P>While Father was busy with his building, and the planting of a small orchard and vineyard, Mother cooked, and washed and sewed, as did her mother before her, for very little labor-saving machinery had come into use.  Mother made by hand, not only all the clothes she and her little girls wore--Nettie had been presented with a little sister, Alice--but she was also expert at making Father's shirts.  Besides this, she was helpful out of doors.  Not to work in the field, of course, but she raised chickens and she planted and tended a flower garden, and did various <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XI</HI>
093.sgm:<P>TEAMING ON THE AUBURN ROAD</P>
093.sgm:<P>OUT on the Auburn Road, a half mile south of our home, from early spring till late in the fall, heavily-loaded freight wagons slowly jolted over the dusty, uneven ground, bound for Auburn, Dutch Flat or Virginia City.  These carriers of freight were of various kinds, from the light spring wagon, drawn by two horses, mules or oxen, to the long-hooded, prairie schooners, sometimes with a "back action" and drawn by a dozen, sixteen or twenty horses or mules.  And they were loaded with every sort of freight needed or desired by the people in the mining towns.  Often these teams were driven with a jerk line--one rein that reached from the bridle of a lead horse to the driver, who sat on the off-wheeler.</P>
093.sgm:<P>This teaming was profitable, and many of the early settlers did more or less hauling of freight over the mountains.  Most of the teams, especially those hauling the big freight wagons, had rows of bells fastened to a bar above the hames.  The musical tinkling of these bells could be heard long distances, and were necessary on the narrow, winding mountain roads.  Most of the carriers of freight referred to as prairie schooners were the covered wagons that had followed the immigrant trail across the plains.</P>
093.sgm:<P>My Father did some hauling of freight for short distances nearly every year, but I think it was in the fall of 1863 that he hauled from Sacramento to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>Teamsters could make but a few miles in a day, and along the Auburn Road, part of which is now the Lincoln Highway, public houses at intervals had been established for the accommodation of these teamsters.  Near us was the Fourteen-Mile-House, called so because it was fourteen miles from Sacramento.  A mile east of it was the "Fifteen," where Mr. William Thomas was the landlord.  Then there were the "Sixteen" and the "Seventeen."  The Eighteen-Mile-House was sometimes called the "Half-Way," it being midway between Sacramento and Auburn.  Just above the "Eighteen," the road crossed the line into Placer County and began to climb into the foothills of the Sierras.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In a <HI REND="italics">History of Sacramento County</HI>
093.sgm:<P>These roadhouses were much alike.  They were frame buildings, clapboarded, two stories high, and stood lengthwise to the road.  The big bar-room contained a long bar, well supplied with every liquid refreshment popular at the time; there was a big box stove, several round tables, and chairs for as many as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>The only public house along the old Auburn Road that is given any prominence in the <HI REND="italics">History of Sacramento County</HI>
093.sgm:<P>It was here, a few yards from the Oak Grove House, that at sunrise, on August 2, 1852, one of the famous duels of California was fought between Edward Gilbert and James W. Denver.  Denver was in charge of supplies for overland immigration, and Gilbert, who was editor of the <HI REND="italics">Alta Californian</HI>
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093.sgm:<P>Denver, in 1854, was nominated for Congress, but was defeated.  In that same year he was appointed Secretary of State by Governor Bigler.  He resigned in 1856.  During the Civil War, he fought for the Union and became a Brigadier-General of Volunteers.  He was afterward Governor of Kansas, and also had the honor of having Colorado's Capital named for him.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The scene of this duel, fought more than four score years ago, is only five or six miles from Crosswood, our old home.</P>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XII</HI>
093.sgm:<P>A BOAT RIDE</P>
093.sgm:<P>ALTHOUGH it had been more than five years since my people had left Maine, they had no thought of following their original plan and returning to that State.  Mother had decided, on their arrival in San Francisco, that rather than repeat her previous month's experience, she would get along without ever seeing her people again.  In 1854 there had been little prospect of a transcontinental railway.</P>
093.sgm:<P>During their nine years on this farm, my parents naturally had interesting experiences.  One rather thrilling one was a boat ride that Father took in the winter of 1861-'62.  Sacramento had had floods before this--a big one in 1853--but the flood of 1861-'62 was the worst.  The Sacramento and American Rivers were over their banks, and Sacramento city streets were like rivers.  The road between our house and town was impassable by team for three miles north of the American River bridge.  That part of the way must be made by boat.  The creek that ran <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Father wanted to go to Sacramento, and prompted by a spirit of adventure, he decided to go all the way by boat, about fourteen miles, something that had never been done before nor ever after.  Having no unused lumber of which to build a boat, he removed a wide board from the barn, and of this he built it.  He made a pair of oars, and was ready to launch his craft.  I'm sure our Mother watched him as far as she could see him, and wondered if he would ever get to Sacramento in that boat.  But he had learned to make boats where he had learned to swim--in Cross Pond--and his undertaking was a success.  The current was swift, and as he was going with it, he needed the oars only to keep the boat from being caught by the trees that grew thick along the bank.  The creek ran through the Daly ranch, quite near the house, a mile from us, and Mr. Daly accepted an invitation to accompany the boatman on this unique voyage to Sacramento.  They arrived safely, went up and down the streets in their boat, made some purchases, and when they were ready to leave town, Father exchanged the boat for a four-horse whip.  He and Mr. Daly took passage in a boat that was running back and forth from Sacramento to a place where they found a neighbor with a team, and in this way they reached home.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The fall preceding this flood, Father had built a two-story, seven-room house on his vacant lot at 14th and I Streets.  It had been plastered and painted, and was ready to be rented when the high water came.  To see what condition this house was in was probably Father's principal object in making this trip to Sacramento.  The house was a sorry sight.  The windows were broken, and the flood--carrying driftwood and debris--was running like a river through the lower <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>After the roads became passable--but while the water was still very high--Mother also made a trip to Sacramento, to see what the city looked like in a flood.  Boats were still being used in the streets, people were still living on the second floors of their homes, and she saw many unusual sights.</P>
093.sgm:<P>After the water went down, Sacramento built better levees, but it was years before the city was safe.</P>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XIII</HI>
093.sgm:<P>SYLVAN SCHOOL</P>
093.sgm:<P>IN the spring of 1862, the families in our community felt the need of a school.  Mr. Thomas, proprietor of the Fifteen-Mile-House, started a subscription, and found that enough money could be raised to build a schoolhouse.  He gave the site for the building and when a district was formed, it was Mr. Thomas who gave the district its name--Sylvan--because of the many oak trees that grew there.  My Father was employed to build the schoolhouse, which he did in the summer or fall of 1862.</P>
093.sgm:<P>As had been the case in that other community, in 1857, it was necessary for the settlers to support a private school for six months before they were entitled to public funds.  My Mother was asked to teach this term, which she did.  She first had to obtain a certificate.  This was dated July 5, 1862, and was signed by the members of the Board of Education of Sacramento County, Dr. F. W. Hatch, J. W.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>The Sylvan schoolhouse consisted of one room and two anterooms or hat halls.  It was built of clapboards, faced the south, and was painted white.  It had two doors, and its windows--three on each side and two in the north end--were supplied with green slat shutters.  The original seats, double ones, were home-made, painted a blue-gray, and before they were replaced by modern, factory-made ones, their ink-stained surfaces carried "many a jack-knife's carved initial."</P>
093.sgm:<P>It was necessary to have a stove for this new schoolhouse, and when the building was completed, a dance was held there to raise money for that purpose.  A big, box stove was purchased, and was in use for several decades.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Although Mother was Sylvan's first teacher, Mr. Alfred Spooner was the first to teach in the new schoolhouse.</P>
093.sgm:<P>As was usual in farming districts, the schoolhouse was the civic, social and religious center.  Here the men of the precinct came to vote.  We had no school on election day.  Not till 1911 did California women have a vote.  Here, some winters, we had spelling schools or literary and debating societies.  Sometimes an itinerant entertainer came that way, and we might hear a lecture, or be treated to a sleight-of-hand performance.  You must remember that was a very long time before the day of moving pictures, radios, telephones, automobiles and airplanes.  People had to furnish their own entertainment.  Early in the history of the district a May Day fete became an established institution.  Also a Sunday School was organized, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>When the Sylvan District was formed, rural schools were few, and there were none near us.  Our district included, besides what it has at present, eight thousand acres of the San Juan grant, and at least two-thirds of the Norris grant.  It included the country about Antelope, and on the north and east it reached to the Placer County line.  Gradually, as the surrounding country became settled, other districts were formed from Sylvan--Antelope, San Juan and Roberts, and later, Orangevale and Fair Oaks.</P>
093.sgm:<P>All of Mother's children attended the Sylvan School, and in that original building.  It was there we learned our letters, and from there we were graduated in due time.  We liked school, not in all cases, perhaps, because we were so fond of study, but here was most of our social life.  In a very early day, the State did not furnish school books to the pupils, and maybe we had a more affectionate interest in our <HI REND="italics">McGuffy's Reader</HI>
093.sgm:, our <HI REND="italics">Wilson's Speller</HI>
093.sgm:<P>Few schools have so fine a yard as Sylvan, consisting, as it does, of several acres, dotted over with oak trees; and here we learned to play those games known to children all over the civilized world, handed down from one generation to another.  Every recess found us busy, from the largest boys, who generally played tomball, using a rubber ball and a home-made bat, on down to the smallest girls, who in the shade of a thick live oak, played house, with broken dishes brought from home.  We played marbles and mumbly peg, and flew kites in season.  We learned "King William was King James's Son;" and "London bridge is falling down."  We played "Black Man" and "Drop the Handkerchief," "Puss in the Corner," "Blind Man's Buff" and "Ante-over."  It appears that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>When this "temple of learing" was built, an opening, perhaps two feet square, was left in the ceiling near the north end of the room.  As little children, we feared to sit under that opening, because some of the mischievous older boys had told us the attic was full of wildcats.  We had never seen a wildcat, there were none in that part of the country, there was nothing whatever in that schoolhouse attic, but all that did not prevent our expecting a wildcat to jump at any time, without warning, from that square hole to a desk below.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The teacher's desk was in the south end of the room, therefore the pupils faced that direction.  All our large maps hung on the south wall.  Among them was one of the United States.  I recall being puzzled in my early school days as to why California on the map was toward the Sierras, and the State of Maine toward the Pacific Ocean, when I knew that Father and Mother had gone toward the mountains when they went to Maine on that visit.  I knew, because I went with them, being the youngest member of the family at the time.  It was years before I understood why my directions were wrong, and still are; why east is where that old wall map said the Pacific Ocean is; and when the writer taught the Sylvan School in 1888, she obtained permission to change the seats so the pupils faced the north, and on the north wall the maps were hung, where "east is east and west is west."  Although this arrangement brought the teacher's desk directly under that opening into the attic, and memory had kept those wildcats alive, not one ever ventured forth to drop on the suspecting teacher's head.</P>
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093.sgm:<P>Though California was far removed from the scenes of the Civil War, the early settlers in the West were not lacking in patriotism.  I think it was in the spring of 1863 that my Mother made a Flag.  It is eight feet long, and made of wool bunting, except the stars, which are of white muslin.  It is beautifully made, with thousands of tiny stitches, every stitch taken by hand.  It was the first Flag to float over the Sylvan schoolhouse, and during its early life, it took part in several public affairs.  Although its colors are still bright, it is too worn and frail to be handled, and in June, 1932, we loaned it to the Pioneers.  In the Museum, on the top floor of the new State Library in Sacramento, our Flag reposes in a glass case, among other relics of bygone days.  I like to think of it there, amid friendly surroundings.</P>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XIV</HI>
093.sgm:<P>NEW EXPERIENCES</P>
093.sgm:<P>WHILE Mother was teaching in 1862, she had an experience she could never forget.  That summer, Father had a contract to supply wood to the Sacramento County Hospital.  One day, when he was delivering a load, a young man, an inmate who had been helping with the wood, asked if there wasn't some work on the ranch he could do to earn his board.  He had lost the sight of one eye, he feared blindness, and he did not wish to remain in the County Hospital.  Father brought him home.  This was James Horton, of Tennessee, a big, strong, good-looking young man, little more than twenty years of age.  My people liked him, he was helpful about the place, and he became acquainted with the young folks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>About the same time, or possibly a year earlier, Father had an experience that caused him to lose a little faith in his fellow men.  He had bought some standing oak timber a few miles from home, on the "grant," and had hired a man to cut it.  The man lived in a cabin near his work.  One day he came to our house, and said he would like to take the oxen and wagon, take a load of wood to Sacramento and get some things he needed.  Father let him take the wagon and team of four oxen.  When he did not return them on the day he had agreed to, it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:learned that the man had taken all his belongings, as well as the team and load of wood, and had disappeared.  Father found where he had sold the wood in Sacramento, also where he had bought some bales of hay, but although officers looked for him, and a description of the man and the team was posted along the roads, my folks never saw the man again, nor was the stolen property ever recovered.  Sometime after that, perhaps two years, when Father was hauling freight over the mountains, he met an ox team at a wayside watering trough one day.  He thought he recognized one of the animals, and he asked the driver where he had obtained that particular ox.  The man told where he had purchased the animal.  Father related the story of the stolen team, and said, "If this is the ox I think it is, he is carrying my brand, `J <HI REND="bold">+</HI>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XV</HI>
093.sgm:<P>MORE EXPERIENCES</P>
093.sgm:<P>WHEN a year was dry, and feed consequently poor, Father used to look around to find better summer pasture for his cattle.  In 1864, he took his own twenty-five head, and some neighbors' cows to good feed on the Sacramento River, near Rio Vista.  He fixed up a camp, and Mother and her little girls went there for the summer.  Father cut quite a bit of tule hay, had it baled, sent it up to Sacramento on a barge, and from Sacramento, hauled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>I think it was in the summer of 1866, again when grass was poor, that Father took the cattle to Alta, where there was fine mountain feed.  The railroad had been finished as far as Colfax, and Father hauled freight from Colfax to Alta.  He had a man to milk the cows, and there were plenty of customers for the milk.  This was a good change of climate for Mother and her little girls, too.</P>
093.sgm:<P>At least once more did Father take his cattle to green feed on the Sacramento River, and I shall mention that later.</P>
093.sgm:<P>As you see from this, Father never depended on a grain crop alone.  He did not "put all his eggs in one basket."  He believed in keeping more than one "iron in the fire," that is, if he could attend to more than one.  He had a few head of beef cattle to sell sometimes.  Our farm produced a few colts every year, so occasionally there was a pair of horses to be sold.  Hogs were raised by the Sylvan farmers, and there was a demand for them in the fall.  Chinatown in Folsom furnished a market for most of the hogs raised in our neighborhood.  We always had chickens on our farm, not penned up as they are now on chicken ranches, but free to wander, except inside the picket-fence that surrounded the house and flower garden.  Coops of fryers were taken to market in the spring, and many dozen eggs were sold through the year.  When Mother made more butter than was consumed at home, the surplus was taken to market.  There were no creameries to furnish butter, as there are today.</P>
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093.sgm:<P>While our folks were living on that place, two more children were born, Lilian--the writer of this sketch--and Frankie, their first little boy.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It was in this house, too, that little Alice, at the age of six, was very ill for weeks with typhoid fever.  Dr. Clark, from Folsom, helped to save her, but he said he could have accomplished nothing without Mother's careful nursing.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It was while they lived in this house that they were threatened with a fire.  While the family sat at the breakfast table one morning, a spark from the stovepipe set fire to the roof.  But it was discovered immediately, and several pairs of willing hands made quick work of putting it out before any harm was done except to a few shingles.  I mention this because it is as near as our people ever came to having a real fire.</P>
093.sgm:<P>One year, I think it was in 1867, grasshoppers came in swarms to that part of the country, eating every green thing, even to the bark on the fruit trees, killing the trees, the grapevines and the rosebushes.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Soon after Father bought this farm in Center Township, he sold the one at Negro Hill to Mr. and Mrs. Holmes, whom they had known in Sacramento.  Father told them why he was selling, but Mr. and Mrs. Holmes had lived in a malarial climate, and did not fear it.</P>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XVI</HI>
093.sgm:<P>A LARGER FARM</P>
093.sgm:<P>IN the late 1860's when the Central Pacific Railroad was completed "over the hill," and freight hauling by team was no longer profitable, settlers at Sylvan turned their attention to more extensive farming.</P>
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093.sgm:<P>Father wanted a larger farm, and in the spring of 1868, he had an opportunity to buy 160 acres that adjoined him on the south.  This was a better place and had the advantage of being on the Auburn Road, which was the main highway.  Alfred N. Moore had bought this quarter section from the Central Pacific Railroad Company in June, 1867, for the sum of $400.  He built a small house on it, and in February, 1868, he sold the place to Father for $1,100.  We have the deeds, the one from the railroad company to A. N. Moore, with Leland Stanford's signature, and the one from Mr. Moore to Father.  Adjacent to this quarter section, there were 160 acres of land, still belonging to the Government, beautiful, rolling land, quite densely covered with virgin oak timber.  Father decided to file on this, which, together with the Moore place, would give him a good farm of 320 acres.  As it was necessary to live for a time on this Government land before a clear title could be obtained, it was thought best to move the house Mr. Moore had occupied to the back quarter.  A pretty site was selected on a rise, among the oaks, and to this spot the house was moved, across the creek, and at least half a mile.  Some additions were made to the house, a barn was built, a well dug, and here the family lived for nearly two years.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In 1869, Father obtained his patent from the United States Government for this quarter section.</P>
093.sgm:<P>I have mentioned that one-quarter section of the land at Crosswood was purchased from the United States Government, the other quarter Mr. Moore had bought of the Central Pacific Railroad Company.  When the two railroad companies were chartered--the Union Pacific to start at Omaha and build westward, the Central Pacific to begin at Sacramento and build eastward until the two should meet--Congress, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>As soon as this larger farm had been purchased, the one where we had been living was sold.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Father believed in the conservation of timber, and there is a pasture at Crosswood, consisting of no less than a hundred acres, that has never been cleared.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Forming the south boundary line to this farm, and between Mr. Peter Van Maren's land and Father's, is the Greenback Lane, named so because the county paid for the road in greenbacks.  This was soon after the Civil War, and a dollar in this paper money was not worth one hundred cents.  The Sylvan settlers who sold to the county this land for a public road, naturally wished to be paid in gold, but as the paper money was legal tender, they had to accept it.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In the course of my Father's long and busy life, he had so few accidents that I recall having heard of only one, and that happened while we lived across the creek.  He had gone to Sacramento with a four-horse team and a load of grain.  Two of his horses were young and had not long been broken to harness.  But Father broke his own colts, and was always gentle in handling them, so they were never wild.  By hitching them up with older horses, they gradually learned the ways of the world and seldom gave trouble.  But the unfamiliar sights and sounds of the city made these young horses nervous, and when the last sack of grain had been unloaded at the warehouse, the shriek of a locomotive on the railroad track nearby so startled the nervous animals that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XVII</HI>
093.sgm:<P>A ROBBERY</P>
093.sgm:<P>I THINK my folks considered an experience they had on Sunday evening, January 3, 1869, the most thrilling one of their lives.  We were still living in the house back from the road.  Besides Father and Mother and us four children, there was only one other member of the household, and that was Henry Simmons, man of all work.  Little Frankie was in bed, Mr. Simmons had gone to his room, and the rest of the family sat about an open fire reading and talking, when a call came from the darkness outside, "Cross, we can't find the gate."  Father recognized the voice as that of Mr. Kohlbaker, a German neighbor, who lived nearly two miles away.  Wondering what had brought this neighbor to our house so late on a dark winter night, Father opened the door and answered him.  The light from the open door shone out on the gate, and Mr. Kohlbaker came that way, explaining as he came that he had brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>The three men had met Mr. Kohlbaker in Sacramento that day and had told him they had been engaged to chop wood for Mr. Cross, so he willingly brought them out from town to his ranch.  Between Mr. Kohlbaker's house and ours, there was not a well defined road, there were creeks to cross, water was high, and the night dark.  The strangers had a bottle of liquor, and by its judicious use, Mr. Kohlbaker was persuaded to accompany them all the way.  He did this without a suspicion as to the character of these men until they arrived in our open door.  When he heard the leader's introductory remark to Father, Mr. Kohlbaker turned, leaped from the porch and started for the gate.  The man closely following him, and probably anticipating some such move, stopped him with a bullet, which grazed the old man's chin, bringing a stream of blood.  He was brought into the living room, loudly weeping, and declaring over and over, "I didn't know they were robbers, Mr. Cross."</P>
093.sgm:<P>Mr. Simmons, hearing the strange, loud voices and the pistol shot, came from his room and appeared in the doorway that led from the living room into the kitchen.  Taking the scene in at a glance, he turned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Although the kitchen was dark, Mr. Simmons was caught before he could get out of the back door, was struck over the head with the butt end of a revolver, and he, too, was brought into the presence of the family, very much frightened and with blood flowing from the wound caused by the blow on his head.</P>
093.sgm:<P>While this excitement was going on, the big man--the only one wearing a mask--was urging Father to hand over a thousand dollars that the robber declared was in the house.</P>
093.sgm:<P>A short time before this, Father had sold eight hundred dollars worth of cattle.  These men evidently knew of the sale, and also that Father had not been to Sacramento to deposit the money in a bank.  But they did not know that the money had been lent to a neighbor some miles away, who, I believe, had to make a payment on his farm.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The clothesline was procured from the back yard, cut up into short lengths, and Mother, Nettie, Mr. Kohlbaker and Mr. Simmons were tied hand and foot.  Father's hands were tied, but his feet were left free that he might lead these men to the hiding place of the thousand dollars.  The youngest of the trio remained outside at a window, while the other two began a thorough search of the house, the leader constantly reminding Father that he would be shot, or hanged, or thrown into the well, if the money sought was not forthcoming.  Nettie, knowing the thousand dollars was not in the house, feared the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>I have heard Mother say that she did not believe a person <HI REND="italics">could</HI>
093.sgm:<P>The men first searched the bedroom occupied by our parents.  The bed was taken to pieces, the contents of the bureau drawers scattered about; they looked behind pictures and under rugs.  Of course they did not find the thousand dollars, but they obtained about a hundred dollars in cash, a gold watch and chain belonging to Mrs. Holmes, who was ill in Sacramento and who had left her watch at our house for safe keeping; a silver watch, a revolver and some other articles, besides most of the jewelry Mother had.  One piece, a handsome gold belt buckle, was not taken.  The belt was wrapped around the buckle and it was tumbled about in the bureau and over-looked.  Mother had some keepsakes, pieces of jewelry and several tiny gold coins, in a little box.  One of the robbers turned the contents of this box into his hand.  The next day, a gold half-dollar was found on the floor.  Evidently it had slipped through the man's fingers, and it is all that was left of the contents of the jewel box.  I have this half-dollar, attached to a gold bar pin, given me by Mother years ago.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Still intent on finding the thousand dollars, the two men went into Nettie's room next, but before they had searched there, a call came from a distance.  Mrs. Kohlbaker had become uneasy about her husband, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>When these men shouted, two of the robbers quickly left, but the leader, with an oath, declared he would not go until he had obtained what he came after.  But in a moment, he changed his mind, ran out, and disappeared through the gate just as the men from Mr. Kohlbaker's were about to enter.</P>
093.sgm:<P>These robbers were never apprehended, nor were any of the stolen articles ever recovered.  The leader had said to my Father, "I know you, Cross, and if I didn't have this on my face, you would know me."  He talked with a brogue and was very profane.  I have heard Father say he felt quite sure of the man's identity, but that he was a dangerous man, and without proof of his guilt, it would be safer not to accuse him.  The man my Father suspected lived several miles from us, had already served a term in prison for horse-stealing, and that following summer, in one of our mountain counties, he was again convicted of stealing horses.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Robberies were comparatively rare sixty years ago.  Never before had such a thing happened in that neighborhood as happened to us, nor has anything like it occurred there since that time.</P>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XVIII</HI>
093.sgm:<P>FRANKIE'S DEATH</P>
093.sgm:<P>It was in this house that the first real sorrow came to my parents.  Their baby boy, Frankie, two years of age, was taken from them, after a short illness in March, 1869.  His illness was the result of a cold which settled in his head, causing inflammation of the brain.  Perhaps it was this sad experience that caused my Father and Mother, ever afterward, to be unusually careful about the taking of colds.  "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure," was one of the old adages heard often in our home.  "Only a cold" was never considered a trivial thing in our family.  It was given immediate attention.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Both my parents were unusually fond of children, and losing their baby, their only boy, was a blow from which they did not even partially recover for several years.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It was in the summer of 1869 that Father once more took his stock and that of some of his neighbors to green feed on the Sacramento River.  Mother and my sister Alice went with him.  Two young men, brothers, were hired to do the milking, and my Mother was kept busy with housekeeping and butter-making.  I have heard her say it was well she had so much to occupy her hands and her mind the summer following little Frankie's death.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In this year, 1869, Sylvan had its first lady teacher since Mother--Miss Celia Wilcox--and she was also the first of a long line of teachers to make their home with us.</P>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XIX</HI>
093.sgm:<P>THE NEW HOUSE</P>
093.sgm:<P>This house across the creek had never been intended as a permanent home.  My folks had selected a building site out on the road, and in the fall of 1869 Father built a large, two-story house, hard-finished, and quite a nice one for that time.  It was built of rustic, painted white and it had green window shutters.  A porch was built across the front, upstairs and down, and along one side to an ell.  A white picket fence enclosed the large yard that surrounded the house, and inside this fence we had a beautiful garden.  There were roses and lilac bushes, oleanders, china trees and pomegranates.  On each side of a brick walk that led from the front door to the gate, there were long flower beds, planted with marigolds, wallflowers, stocks, verbenas, mignonette, sweet elysium, iris and narcissus, as well as other sweet old-fashioned flowers.  There were hollyhocks in our garden, "pin-cushions" and bachelor buttons.</P>
093.sgm:<P>And there, on the east side of the house, in the afternoon shade, was our croquet ground.</P>
093.sgm:<P>And climbing over the long porches, until the house was almost hidden, there were honeysuckle vines and jessamine, woodbine, a scarlet trumpet vine and several friendly rosebushes, among them a beautiful Gold of Ophir.  Only those who know the combined fragrance of honeysuckle and jessamine can know how sweet our garden was in honeysuckle time.  Most of our vines, shrubs and trees came from the Alonzo Greenlaw home near Sacramento, and I have heard Mother say that as she tended these plants and watched them grow, she felt that she was having little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<illus entity="a093-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Crosswood in</HI>
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093.sgm:<P>During the first year, a family orchard was started, grapevines were set out, fig trees were planted about the house and a row of locust trees put out along the road.  The house faced the north, and a fine natural background was furnished by the big, dark green live oaks that grow along the creek that winds through the pasture.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In the years that followed our moving into the new house, other buildings were added, as they were needed, until our home looked quite like a little settlement.  With our mild winters, it was not necessary to have the farm buildings all under one roof, as it had been in New England.  It was much safer here, with the long, dry summers, to have them scattered.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Our three large barns were designated as "the barn," "the straw barn," and "the new barn."  "The barn" was the first one built, and has been mentioned before as having its frame held together with wooden pegs.  We had two granaries and two wagon-sheds, besides other sheds to house farming machinery.  There were two hen-houses, a big wood-shed, and a room adjoining the wood-shed where Father had his work-bench and his chest of carpenter's tools.  There was a tank-house and a little house where hams and bacon were smoked.  We had a stone milk-house, the only one of its kind in the neighborhood.  It was built of granite that Father had had hauled from near Folsom.  The walls of this stone house are at least a foot thick, and it has a brick floor.  By keeping the heavy wooden shutters at the door and the windows closed during the day, and open all night, that milk-house was kept cool, even in the warmest weather.  Not only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Making a trip to Sacramento from Crosswood was quite different some years ago from what it is now.  A horseless carriage was then only a crazy man's dream.  On a summer day, we drove over a rutty road in a cloud of dust.  In winter the road was more rutty and the mud in some places almost hub-deep.  Going toward Sacramento we passed only one farmhouse after leaving our place before we came to the Norris grant.  This grant, as mentioned before, was twelve miles across and consisted of rolling pasture land, timbered with oaks.  None of it was settled.  It was an unfenced range for thousands of sheep, and unless we happened to meet some other farmer folks on a journey to Sacramento, we were likely to see nothing but bands of sheep feeding over these apparently illimitable acres.  In early spring, when the grass was green and the trees budding, and when hundreds of baby lambs played by the road-side, and the voices of meadow larks came clear, this long ride-- behind a good horse, dust and mud forgotten--was one long to be remembered!</P>
093.sgm:<P>The new house being much larger than the ones previously occupied by us, more furnishing was needed.  I recall that we had three-ply ingrain carpets on the floors of the parlor, the living room, and on one or two bedrooms.  In the parlor, besides the big, square Chickering piano that had been bought for Nettie before we left the house across the creek, there were a marble-topped walnut table, a big walnut rocker upholstered in black haircloth, and a corner "whatnot."  There were other chairs, and I recall that many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Our parlor was not a room just to be looked into occasionally.  The piano was in daily use, and our whole house was lived in.  Someone has said, "It takes a heap o' livin' to make a house a home."  These details are given in an effort to present a picture of this house, that, with its "heap o' livin'" was our home for twenty-two years.  It was here that my two sisters, Nettie and Alice, were married, and from here that I went away to school to become a teacher.  It is here that my two brothers, Ralph Herbert, and Charles Warren, were born, and that little Bennie Dewey came to live in our family.  Death did not visit us at Crosswood.  From the time of Frankie's passing, in March, 1869, we had no death in our immediate family until Father was called in October, 1910, more than forty-one years later.</P>
093.sgm:<P>With the larger house to care for, and the flower garden, Mother and her girls were kept busy.  The family was larger, too.  As I have mentioned before, the teachers of the Sylvan School for some years, lived at our house.  For three consecutive years, from 1870 to 1873, Samuel J. Pullen--afterward my sister Alice's husband--taught the school, and was a member of our household.  Others followed him.  Ministers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Outstanding among these last was Sam, who, when he came to do our cooking in 1881, was hardly more than a boy, perhaps eighteen or twenty.  Being capable, more than willing, and of an agreeable disposition, no farmhouse could have had better help.  But Sam had contracted malaria before coming to us, hot weather brought a recurrence of the complaint, and he was with us less than two years when he went to the mountains to rid himself permanently of malaria.  But he ever afterward spoke of his visits to us as "coming home."  He called Mother and Father "Ma" and "Pa," as we did.  After years of cooking in various mining camps, railroad eating houses, hotels and on ranches, Sam came back to live with Mother and me in 1918.  Not as a cook, but as gardener and man of all work, and now in 1933 he is still here in that capacity--a faithful friend for more than half a century.</P>
093.sgm:<P>As time passed, Father had acquired more land, consequently he had to hire more men to do the farm-work, doing less and less heavy work himself.</P>
093.sgm:<P>A long story might be told about the evolution of farming machinery during the last half of the Nineteenth century, the years when Father was a farmer, but that story has been written elsewhere.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Quite clear in my mind are the old harvest days before a cook-house was included in a Sylvan <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Another busy time I can recall clearly was in the fall of the year, after the frost came, when farmers did their butchering.  There was lard to be tried out, hams and sides to be smoked, head cheese and sausage to be made, and brine, in which to preserve the pork for winter use.  Besides fresh roasts and chops, the family enjoyed liver, spare-ribs and pickled pigs' feet.</P>
093.sgm:<P>My folks did not approve of eating much pork, so at Crosswood, fewer hogs were killed than on most of the other farms.  Sometimes Father butchered a young beef, but generally we depended on frequent trips to Sacramento to keep us supplied with fresh meat.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1876 Father erected a brick warehouse in Antelope, two miles from home.  The bricks used had been made in a kiln on the premises.  The warehouse was forty feet wide and one hundred feet long.  One end of it was partitioned off and used as a general store.  Later a Post Office was established there.  Father owned this for some years, then the property was sold, and the building was later destroyed by fire.</P>
093.sgm:<P>At Crosswood, the water for all the cattle and horses, as well as for use in the house and for the garden, came from one well, which is perhaps seventy feet deep.  For years the water was pumped by means of a horse power.  Each child in the family served his or her turn at following a horse round and round the machinery that kept the pump going.  "Pet," a gentle, dapple-gray mare, did the pumping for years.  Horses wore blinders, but wise old Pet could turn her head and see if she were being followed.  If the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>This horse power for pumping water was replaced by our first windmill, August 1, 1882, a date remembered in our family as being the day on which the first grandson--John Francis Pullen--was born.</P>
093.sgm:<P>One of the early improvements on the ranch was a cistern to hold rain water.  It is a huge, underground jug.  After the excavation was made, it was walled with bricks and then lined with cement.  In the winter the cistern would fill with rain water from the roof.  During the summer this water, much softer than the well water, was pumped out and used on wash days.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Sunday was always observed as a day of rest by my parents, as it was by most of the people in that community.  The farm chores were of course attended to, and we might go riding or visiting, write letters, or read, but no plowing or haying or other field work was done.  And while the cooking and other necessary indoor work must be performed, there was no sewing or washing or ironing on the Sabbath.  There was no limit to the hours of work on a farm for six days in the week.  It was well that the seventh was observed as a day of rest.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In a very early day, California farmers had few light vehicles suitable for family use.  Their wives were mostly young, with little children, and plenty of work, and did not go very much.  When they did go it must be in a farm wagon, on foot, or on horseback.  Mother and Nettie sometimes rode horseback, and I can recall the beautiful side-saddle that had been used by them.  Women at that time rode <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Sometime in the 1860's, Father bought our first light vehicle, referred to as the "spring wagon."  It was two-seated, and drawn by either one horse or two.  Early in the 70's, we acquired our first single buggy, then some later, a double carriage.  Light vehicles had now come into common use.  Farms also had two-wheeled carts, and buckboards.</P>
093.sgm:<P>I must not leave this period of my Mother's life without mentioning so important a thing as her first sewing machine.  This was purchased prior to 1869, and was a small one that screwed to the top of a table, being operated by hand.  But it was a wonderful help, for Mother still continued to make all our clothes.  Not until about 1880 did she have a dressmaker do any sewing for her.  Neither outer clothes nor underwear could be purchased as they can be today.  In 1872 or '73, this little machine gave place to a large one that was in use in our house for years.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Mother was not only expert at dressmaking, but also at making over, at darning and mending, and at making beautiful buttonholes.  "A stitch in time saves nine" was one of her many homely mottoes.  She did not hold with him who said:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"<HI REND="italics">Patchers set upon a little breach Discredit more in hiding of the fault Than did the fault before it was so patched</HI>
093.sgm:<P>We might wear made-over clothes, we might wear mended ones, but Mother would have felt disgraced if any of her family had worn a garment with a hole in it.</P>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XX</HI>
093.sgm:<P>VACATIONS</P>
093.sgm:<P>IN 1870, soon after the completion of the Central Pacific Railroad, my folks returned to Maine for a few weeks' visit, after an absence of over sixteen years.  Again in 1888, they made a visit to their old home.  They had happy reunions with relatives and friends and brought back many pleasant memories.  But all the remembered faces were not there to meet them, and when in a later year they spoke of making a third visit to Maine, they decided it would bring more pain than pleasure, and they did not go again.</P>
093.sgm:<P>A Grange, of which Mother and Father were charter members, was organized in 1874, in Roseville--four miles from us.  That is the only order Father ever joined.  Meetings were held on Saturdays and the members derived much pleasure as well as profit from them.  They talked over farm problems, and were mutually helpful.  They had social affairs, often meeting before noon and having feasts of all good things to eat.  And especially was there the king of feasts when the Grange gave an annual Ball in December.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Roseville at that time had a population of no more than five hundred.  Less than thirty years ago the Southern Pacific Railroad Company established its shops and yards there, and Roseville suddenly became an important little city.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Every year, in October, after harvest, when the busy farmers were supposed to have a respite from hard work, the State Grange met.  These sessions were held in Sacramento, or Stockton, or some other valley town, and were attended by delegates from the various Granges, and by as many other members as could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>There were other vacations taken, sometimes to the Coast, sometimes to the mountains, to escape for awhile from the summer heat in the Valley.  Pacific Grove was a favorite Coast resort.  In 1873, the family had their first real camping trip, a trip of three weeks to Tahoe and Donner Lakes.  That was before any summer homes or resorts had been built on either lake, and long before the coming of the automobile.  The roads were rough and dusty, but the benefits derived from this change were so lasting, that the hardships of the trip were forgotten.</P>
093.sgm:<P>On our return from this trip, in September, 1873, my folks decided that we needed a little boy in our home, and they found one that needed a home and a mother, as much as our home and Mother needed a little boy.  This was five-year-old Bennie Dewey.  He lived with us until he had grown to manhood.  He now lives in the State of Washington.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Just a year from the time Bennie joined our family, on September 4, 1874, my brother, Ralph Herbert, was born.  Two years later, on October 13, 1876, came another little brother, Charles Warren.  These two boys, coming, as they did, a little late in the lives of our parents, were very welcome additions to our family.  They were happy together and had the whole ranch for a playground.</P>
093.sgm:<P>They were never separated till Herbert started to school.  This would have left Charlie very lonely had it not been that at about this time he and Jimmie Manning, also aged four, became dear little friends, often spending a day together.  They were a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Among the many pleasures my parents had at Crosswood were visits with their three grandchildren--Sarah, Frank and Amy Pullen--who lived first in Roseville, later in Auburn.  As my sister Nettie never had any children, and as the writer of this sketch never married, these were the only grandchildren for several years.</P>
093.sgm:<P>I recall how we enjoyed frequent family gatherings, and how we looked forward to holidays, Christmas at home, Thanksgiving with Alice, and New Year's Day with Nettie.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Many dear friends visited at our home, and I like to remember how glad we always were to welcome them, whether for a day or a week.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In about 1882, a few of the early-day farmers of Sylvan and Roseville, together with their wives, organized themselves into a little group of "Old Settlers."  For years they met on the twenty-second of February, first at one home, then at another, where they had a dinner.  Gradually time decreased the number of these friends of long ago, until Mother was for many years the sole survivor.  A photograph of these "Old Settlers" hangs in the Pioneer Room of the California State Library in Sacramento.</P>
093.sgm:<P>I am glad to remember that in their religious views my people were liberal.  They were members of the Presbyterian Church in Roseville, but that did not prevent Father from giving liberally to the building of a Methodist Church in the same town.  Believers in religious freedom, I never heard either of them criticize unkindly any person for his or her religious belief.</P>
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093.sgm:<P>In politics Father was a Republican, but that did not mean to him that men who voted the Democratic ticket were all wrong.</P>
093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XXI</HI>
093.sgm:<P>CHOOSING A SCHOOL</P>
093.sgm:<P>IN 1891, when my brother Herbert was ready for High School, and there was none near us, our folks had to look about for a school where he might prepare for College.  In the hills of East Oakland, where Highland Hospital now stands, there was a Baptist College and Academy, presided over by Dr. Samuel B. Morse, a Baptist minister.  This school had been recommended by Mrs. Tarbox, who had been Mrs. Hyde, one of the Benicia friends.  One visit to "California College" made my parents decide that they had found the right place.  The boys' dormitory, where a dozen or more boys lived, was the home of Dr. and Mrs. Morse, who personally looked after the young men.  Dr. Morse was a Maine man, a fact that was of course appreciated by Mother and Father.  Here Herbert boarded for a year, until in 1892, when Charlie had finished grammar school, our parents decided to move to Oakland.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Before I take the subjects of this sketch to Oakland, where they were to spend the rest of their lives, it occurs to me to mention other things in connection with their living in the Sylvan neighborhood.</P>
093.sgm:<P>This is where my Father and Mother came as young people in 1859, where they spent thirty-three busy years.  In reviewing those years, I cannot find that they were lacking in any of the qualities that go to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Our parents had neither time nor inclination to meddle in the affairs of others.  Almost never in our home did we hear adverse criticism of our neighbors or of other people.  I am glad to remember that harmful gossip was never indulged in.</P>
093.sgm:<P>My Father was a good husband and father, a loyal friend, a kind and helpful neighbor.  He was careful, deliberate, calm in emergencies, just and fair-minded.  He possessed an unusual amount of good, practical common sense, and he had excellent judgment.  Although he came to California in that very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>He was not a great talker, but he was a good listener, possessing a keen sense of humor--a restful, sympathetic, understanding companion.  He had the confidence of those about him, who often sought his advice.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Among the many instances that proved this confidence in Father's common sense and judgment, I remember hearing of two incidents a little out of the ordinary.  Sometime back in the 60's he was sent for in a great hurry one day.  A neighbor's small son had chopped his little sister's finger nearly off with a hatchet.  Father's calmness soothed the excited family, and although he had never before been called upon to do anything like this, he replaced the severed finger so that it grew in place.  That was seventy years ago, and the finger--it was the thimble finger--is still nimble and in use.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Once when a neighbor was taken suddenly ill in the night, he sent for Father to come and draw up his will, and although Father had never studied any more law than he had surgery, the will he wrote that night was admitted to probate.</P>
093.sgm:<P>As a family we loved home.  We children were generally disposed to do right, so punishments were almost unknown.  We were early taught obedience.  If either parent requested us to do some certain thing or to desist from doing something, they talked very little, but we knew they would not forget that they had made the request.  They would follow it up.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>We had books and we loved to read.  Our parents lived together in peace, which perhaps should be given as the foremost reason why children like home.  If Mother and Father had differences of opinion, those differences were not discussed in the presence of their children, or of other persons, but were settled in private.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Among the books in our bookcase, I can plainly see <HI REND="italics">Dr. Gunn's Domestic Physician</HI>
093.sgm:<P>Among the few periodicals of sixty years ago, we had <HI REND="italics">Harper's Weekly</HI>
093.sgm:.  This had not only the best of reading, but the finest of illustrations.  I recall that a summer kitchen at our home was papered with <HI REND="italics">Harper's</HI>
093.sgm:, and much of my small fund of early general information was gathered from these illustrations.  We had <HI REND="italics">Godey's Ladies Book</HI>
093.sgm:, with its highly-colored plates depicting ladies in the newest and most extreme fashions.  We had the <HI REND="italics">Children's Hour</HI>
093.sgm:<P>Later we subscribed for years for the <HI REND="italics">Youth's Companion</HI>
093.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Toledo Blade</HI>
093.sgm: was long a regular visitor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>We also had story-books and much reading aloud.  On winter evenings, between supper and bedtime, it was our custom to gather about the open fire in our big living room and listen while someone read.  A couch was one of the comfortable spots in that living room, and usually the youngest member of the family went to sleep there.  One of my early recollections is of lying on this couch, in the evening, listening to Mr. Pullen read from <HI REND="italics">David Copperfield</HI>
093.sgm:, or maybe <HI REND="italics">Dombey and Son</HI>
093.sgm:<P>There was but one serious illness in our family while we lived at Crosswood.  In the winter of 1881-'82 my brother, Herbert, then seven, was very ill with typhoid pneumonia.  Dr. Oatman, of Sacramento, was the physician, but as in that other case when Alice had typhoid fever, the doctor gave Mother's nursing the credit for having saved the child's life.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Mentioning Dr. Oatman recalls other familiar names of Sacramento business people with whom we had dealings.  When Father needed legal advice, he consulted Mr. LeRoy S. Taylor, a prominent pioneer attorney, for long years a personal friend of our family.  Father's insurance and real estate business were generally attended to by the old firm of "Sweetzer and Alsop."  His banking business was done at the D. O. Mills Bank.  This bank was started in 1849 or 1850 by D. O. Mills, and is credited by a writer in the <HI REND="italics">History of Sacramento County</HI>
093.sgm: with being the oldest institution of its kind in California.  Grain from our farm was usually sold to the Pioneer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Farm life for women, even as late as the time referred to as the "Gay 90's," was quite unlike farm life today.  We used brooms and washboards, and the flatirons with which our long, wide, tucked and ruffled skirts were ironed, were heated on wood stoves; we used coal oil lamps, that had to be filled and trimmed every day and the chimneys cleaned; we drove to the Post Office for our mail; and if we had something to say to a neighbor, we must hitch up a horse, and drive over to his house.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Now a farm may have every modern convenience.  It has electric lights, and that long list of labor saving devices operated by electricity--stoves, refrigerators, vacuum cleaners, sewing machines, washing machines and ironers; mail is delivered daily at the door; with telephone lines everywhere, the farmer, as well as his city brother, may sit comfortably in his own home and converse with friends, whether they be on the next farm or across the continent.  The radio brings him programs from all over the world; and an automobile, or maybe an airplane, takes him quickly wherever he wishes to go.</P>
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093.sgm:<HEAD>PART THREE<LB>MEMORIES OF OAKLAND<LB>
093.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><HI REND="italics">From the voiceless lips of the unreplying dead There comes no word; but in the night of death Hope sees a star, and listening love can hear The rustle of a wing</HI>
093.sgm:<P>--INGERSOLL</P>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XXII</HI>
093.sgm:<P>OAKLAND</P>
093.sgm:<P>WHEN our folks moved to Oakland in 1892, they rented a house on East 32nd Street, near California College, and here they lived for a year.  This gave them time to decide that they would make East Oakland their home, and time to choose a building lot from the many vacant blocks of land.  They selected a location on the corner of 13th Avenue and East 28th Street, where Father bought two hundred feet fronting on East 28th Street.  In the summer of 1893 he had a two-story, eight-room house built near the east end of this lot, but far enough from the east end, so that no one who built on adjoining property could shut the sun from our house. My folks had always appreciated the value of sunshine and knew how especially valuable it is in this coast climate.  A barn was built, also, as a carriage and a pair of horses had been brought from the ranch.  There was much pretty country to be seen about Oakland, and few car lines.</P>
093.sgm:<P>On their arrival in Oakland, our parents soon made friends.  By means of their boys, they came in contact with not only the student life of the College, but they became acquainted with the professors and their wives, and with parents of other students.  They attended social functions in Mary Stuart Hall, and took an interest in the literary and debating societies.</P>
093.sgm:<P>And in the Brooklyn Presbyterian Church, to which they brought their membership from Roseville, they made friends.</P>
093.sgm:<P>They also became affiliated with the Oakland Grange, and found among the members men and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>And here in Oakland they had the opportunity of attending the annual State of Maine reunions, where for a time one of "Aunt Patty's" grandsons, Joseph W. Jackson, was presiding officer.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Although Mother and Father continued to acquire new interests as long as they lived, they never forgot their old friends and their old neighbors.  They often visited Roseville, and never failed, as long as the "Old Settlers" continued to hold annual reunions, to be present at those meetings.  When it came Mother's time to entertain, she did so in the home of some other member, it not being possible for all of them to meet in Oakland.</P>
093.sgm:<P>My people liked the equable coast climate; they were well, they kept busy and the days passed quickly.  They liked people, and were able to derive pleasure from little things.  They continued to live the regular lives they had lived on the farm.  They arose rather early, as had been their custom; their three meals were served at about the same time each day, and they had a regular hour for retiring.  After supper, Mother always read aloud to Father for awhile, the daily paper, and whatever else they might be interested in.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Naturally, their primary interest at this time was the welfare and success of their sons.  In due time the boys finished the Academy course, and were ready for College.  Herbert chose to take his College course in that same institution.  This was followed by three years in Hastings Law School in San Francisco, from which he was graduated in 1899.  He immediately began the practice of law in San Francisco, continuing to live at home in Oakland.</P>
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093.sgm:<P>Charles decided to become a civil engineer, and as engineering was not included in the curriculum of California College, he entered Stanford University and was graduated from there in the class of 1901.</P>
093.sgm:<P>All through these happy years, our parents continued to take little journeys.  Besides the ones already mentioned, they made frequent visits to Auburn to the home of my sister, Alice, and her family.  Sometimes their trips were longer.  In 1897, accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Pullen, they visited Portland, Oregon, for some weeks, going up by boat and returning by train.  Four or five years later, they again went North, once more spending a few weeks in Portland, and visiting also the State of Washington.</P>
093.sgm:<P>One summer they visited Humboldt County, another year they went to Southern California.  In 1907 they went to Yosemite Valley.  That was the year the railroad was finished to El Portal, the first year that visitors could reach Yosemite by train, and there were more visitors that summer than there had been in any one year before.  Automobiles being very few in 1907, they were not allowed to enter the Valley, nor were they for several summers thereafter.  From El Portal we were taken twelve miles to the floor of the Valley in four-horse stages.  Horses were not yet accustomed to the sight of automobiles.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Mother and Father loved home and they knew that arriving home after a journey was one of the most pleasant features of the trip, but they liked to meet new people, to see new places, and bring back pleasant memories.  They liked to have new and interesting subjects on which to talk.  Some of their experiences were most interesting.  Among them I recall one that occurred a long way back in 1870, when they were en route to Maine on that first visit.  They stopped over one day to see Salt Lake City, a city famous even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XXIII</HI>
093.sgm:<P>FIFTIETH WEDDING ANNIVERSARY AND OTHER EVENTS</P>
093.sgm:<P>ON October 1, 1900, my brother Herbert was married.  His bride was Miss Maud Lutts, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Frank M. Lutts, of Willows.  She, too, had been a student at California College.  The summer preceding their marriage, Father had two flats put up on the corner of 13th Avenue and East 28th Street, and after they were married, the young couple moved into the lower flat, where they lived for fourteen years.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Soon after Charles's graduation from Stanford University, he obtained a position with the Southern Pacific Railroad Company as a draftsman in their San Francisco office.  When that company started work on the Lucin Cut-off in Utah, they transferred several of their office men from San Francisco to Ogden.  Charles was among them, and he spent the next two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<illus entity="a093-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHARLES<HSEP>HERBERT<HSEP>LILIAN<HSEP>MOTHER<HSEP>NETTIE<HSEP>FATHER<HSEP>ALICE <HI REND="italics">The Golden Wedding Anniversary--March 16, 1904</HI>
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093.sgm:<P>On March 16, 1904, our parents had been married fifty years, and we celebrated the occasion by a family dinner at home, followed by an afternoon reception at the home of my brother, "R. H.," next door.  All the children and grandchildren were present.  They were my sister Nettie and her husband, Mr. Duncan T. MacArthur, who were now living in Oakland; my sister Alice and her husband, their two daughters and their son, from Auburn; my brothers and their wives, little Katherine, baby Margaret, and myself.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It was a perfect spring day, and the house next door had been beautifully decorated by the two daughters-in-law.  Many friends came to offer their congratulations.  Friends at a distance, who were not able to bring their good wishes in person, sent letters or telegrams.  Many gifts, too, were received.  The sons and daughters presented Mother with a handsome brooch, Father with a gold-headed cane.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It was a most happy day, one that gave our parents much lasting pleasure.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The morning of April 18, 1906, was a never-to-be-forgotten morning by those who experienced one of the worst earthquakes in the history of California.  Mother and Father happened to be alone in their home.  They were awake, but had not yet arisen, when suddenly at just 5:13 o'clock, there came that terrific shaking of the house, followed by the deafening noise of bricks falling on the roof.  This noise of dozens of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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093.sgm:<P>Anxious to see whether the houses about them were still standing, my folks arose quickly.  Their neighbors were either already in the street, or were hurrying out of their houses, some in their night-clothes, others wearing whatever they had been able to snatch up on their way.  Mother's hearing was dull in her later years, and she attributed the beginning of her deafness to the earthquake shock.</P>
093.sgm:<P>During the decade between 1903 and 1913, much joy was brought into the lives of my parents by the coming of six more grandchildren.  They were Margaret, Francis, Ralph and Eugenia, in the home of Mr. and Mrs. Ralph Herbert Cross, and Marion and Warren in the home of my brother Charles and his wife.  Living near us, they became dear little companions of their grandparents.  Eugenia was the only one who was not privileged to know her grandfather.</P>
093.sgm:<P>For some time before his death, Father began to appear older.  Especially was this true after the death of Samuel J. Pullen in December, 1907.  He and this son-in-law had been close friends for nearly forty years.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In February, 1909, Father had a short illness that kept him in bed a few days, the first time I had ever seen him spend a day in bed.  The doctor diagnosed his case as that of diabetes, and thereafter kept him on a restricted diet.  After that brief illness, he was not confined to his bed at all again, although he lived nearly two years.  The last year, however, he was confined to the house most of the time.</P>
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093.sgm:<P>It cannot be easy, after eighty active years to be resigned to the quiet existence of a semi-invalid, but my Father, always kind, always thoughtful and considerate of others, was most patient.  When friends came to see him, he was glad, but he tired easily, and was happiest when only the members of his own family were around him.  He suffered little or no pain, and except to grow thinner and weaker, he changed little.  Father's eyes, a beautiful, dark, clear blue, never faded.  His hair, fine, straight, and so dark as to be almost black, was some thinner, but very little gray.</P>
093.sgm:<P>On October 26, Father had a sinking spell, such as he had had on two other occasions several months earlier; but he rallied from this as he had from the others.  That night, about midnight, he talked with me when the nurse had gone into the next room.  He lowered his voice and made some joking remark about her quick movements, and smiled at the picture his imagination had drawn.</P>
093.sgm:<P>At five o'clock in the morning the nurse called us.  Father was unconscious, and from this heart attack he did not rally, but passed very quietly a few minutes after five on the morning of October 27, 1910.  Two days later the funeral service was held in the Oakland Chapel on Howe and Mather Streets.  It was Father's wish that his body be cremated, and this wish was carried out.  His ashes repose in Sylvan Cemetery, beside those of his old friends and neighbors.</P>
093.sgm:<P>I have never known a better man than my dear Father, and if his descendants have not gathered from this brief history that he was an ancestor to be very proud of, I have failed to accomplish my purpose.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB><HI REND="italics">"Kind looks, kind words, kind deeds, And a warm handclasp</HI>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chapter XXIV</HI>
093.sgm:<P>THE AUTUMN OF MOTHER'S LIFE</P>
093.sgm:<P>AFTER nearly fifty-seven years of happy companionship, it was not to be expected that our Mother could adjust herself easily to this change.  But she had her children and her grandchildren; her health was good, and she had proved earlier in life that keeping busy is a wonderful help in times of great loneliness.  She was glad she still liked to sew, to make quilts and rugs, to knit and tat and embroider.  She worked in the garden.  She did various things about the house.  She wrote long letters and she loved to read.  For years she was a subscriber for the <HI REND="italics">Christian Herald</HI>
093.sgm:, and long after her children were grown she continued to take the <HI REND="italics">Youths' Companion</HI>
093.sgm:<P>Mother had much attention from her family, and especially at this time did she appreciate the many friends she had made and kept during her life.  Some time in the 1890's the women of the Oakland Grange had organized a Reading Club.  There were a dozen or more members.  They met once in two weeks, and had luncheon first at one home and then another.  After the meal, someone would read from some "best seller," while the other members had their needle work.  For the last several years of the Club's existence, Mother was its eldest member, and she was for long its president.  At the lunch table each one was expected to give from memory some beautiful thought or maybe an amusing story.  Mother always had a good story or a verse.  If a story, it was well told; if a verse, she had it letter perfect.  The sometimes forgetful members used to remind her that she put them to shame.  After Father's death, these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>My Mother made frequent visits to Auburn, and as my sister Alice's children were now married, she had more family to enjoy.  Sarah Pullen had married Peter G. Ekberg in December, 1906, and became the mother of four daughters and one son.  Amy Pullen had married William J. Laing in June, 1909, in Oakland, at the home of my brother, Ralph Herbert Cross and wife, so that Father, who was unable at that time to go from home, might see them married.  In June, 1911, John Francis Pullen and Miss Margaret Gladden were married in Sacramento.  They became the parents of one daughter, so our Mother was the proud great-grandmother of several children.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Mother enjoyed so many things.  Nothing gave her more pleasure than automobile riding.  Although my brother Herbert had acquired his first automobile before Father's death, our Father, who had enjoyed riding behind horses all his life, could not look with favor on this new invention.  But Mother never tired of riding.  Many times she made the trip from Oakland to Auburn.  An all-day ride did not tire her, and for more than a dozen years after that first automobile came into the family, she did much riding.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Mother was interested in the Women's Christian Temperance Union, and sometimes attended their conventions.  After Father's death, she no longer cared to attend State Grange sessions; and as her hearing gradually became more dull, she discontinued her regular attendance at church.</P>
093.sgm:<P>I spoke of Father's having had an accident with a team back in the '60's.  Mother also had an accident while living at Crosswood.</P>
093.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>In the summer of 1892, while we were packing to move to Oakland, she started out one afternoon to do an errand at the home of Mrs. Lauppe, a neighbor.  Mrs. Johnson, a friend who was visiting us, was invited to accompany her.  "Mouse" was the driving animal that happened to be hitched to a cart at the time, and although she was considered quite safe, she had her prejudices, one of which was an open umbrella.  Mother, who seldom drove Mouse, had forgotten this.  A hundred yards from the gate, Mrs. Johnson raised an umbrella and Mouse bolted.  Mother could have kept her in the road, and the animal would have stopped soon of her own accord; but when our friend, at Mother's request, had dropped the umbrella out behind them, she reached over and clutched the reins.  This drew Mouse to the side of the road, where the cart tilted just enough to throw Mrs. Johnson out.  She took the reins with her, leaving Mother helpless.  Mouse continued on her way, turning from the main road to the one leading to the Post Office.  Mother was thrown into the bottom of the cart, where she was bounced about, until at a jog in the road, more than a half mile from home, one wheel struck a fence post, the cart was up-tipped for a moment, long enough to roll Mother out on the ground.  Then the cart righted itself, and Mouse kept on until a neighbor met her and brought her home.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Mother's bruises extended over her whole body.  She was in bed several days, but as was the case when Father experienced the runaway, no bones were broken.  Mrs. Johnson was uninjured.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Our Mother was to have another accident, a much more serious one.  On June 22, 1916, in alighting from a street car at 13th and Washington Streets in Oakland, she made a misstep, and fell.  At the hospital it was learned that she had suffered a fracture <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>One of Mother's many resources became a most valuable one during her weeks in the hospital.  That first day, when she learned that she must lie on her back with little or nothing under her head, she said to me, "What can I do with all my time?"  I suggested that she memorize some verses on "The Wooded Hills of Maine" recently sent her by a friend.  She readily accepted the suggestion, and had me write the first verse then, in a very large hand, for in that position she could not use her glasses.  The day after, when I saw her, she had that first verse, and I wrote the second and so on until she had memorized the whole of a long poem.  Then in the same way, she learned other worth-while verse.  It had always been easy for her to commit poems to memory, she already had memorized many during her life, and after she came from the hospital, she continued to add to these.</P>
093.sgm:<P>She had a fine, cheery young nurse, who was with her day and night for those eleven weeks.  She was relieved for a few hours every afternoon by some member of our family.  The patient much enjoyed and appreciated the attention given her by her family and friends, the many calls and letters, flowers and fruit, and books.  The nurse was supposed to be an engaged young lady, but she confided to Mother one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>For some time after Mother came from the hospital she was not able to get around very well, and remained at home, spending her time reading, writing, sewing and visiting with friends who came to see her.  During this time she had a most kind and conscientious young woman for a companion.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It is not possible for me to tell of all the sewing and other handwork she did.  One of the first things she did soon after she came home was to knit lace for six pairs of pillow slips.  When the United States entered the World War in 1917, Mother began knitting for the soldiers.  She loved this work.  She knit fifty pairs of socks, besides other knitting on scarfs and sweaters.  As you may know, she was quick, but never at any time did she work all day on any one thing.  She varied her work.  Change of occupation, not idleness, rested her.  After knitting until she felt she needed a change, she sewed a while or wrote a letter or worked on a braided rug.  Maybe she took a nap, or went for a short walk, or read a story, or a chapter in the Bible.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It was suggested to her many times that she keep a record of the needlework she did during these later years, but except for an occasional jotting down of something like the soldiers' socks or the pillow-slip lace, she seldom kept any account of what she did.  In a little record written August 13, 1922, Mother mentioned that from the summer of her accident, 1916, up to that August, 1922, she had pieced and quilted fifteen quilts and was working on another; that in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>It was awhile before her accident that she learned to play whist, then bridge.  All her life, up to that time, she had objected to cards as being the cause of much wasted time.  I do not think she really changed her mind as to that, for although she learned to play well, and thoroughly enjoyed a game, she would sometimes apologize by asking, "Don't you think when people reach the age of eighty they <HI REND="italics">ought</HI>
093.sgm:<P>Although, as I have said, it had been suggested to Mother that she keep a record of her work, I find but one such memorandum and that is for January, 1920, when she was eighty-five:</P>
093.sgm:<P>"In January I knit Katherine a sleeveless sweater, made a braided rug fifty-six inches long, and thirty-two inches wide, ripped up two dresses to make over for children, knit new heels for my stockings, and did some mending.  Wrote eighteen letters, went to the Reading Club twice, to the Card Club twice, made two visits to the dentist, two to the oculist, had neuralgia part of the time, had a tooth extracted, and have another sweater well started."</P>
093.sgm:<P>I copied the above just as I found it.  When Mother wrote letters, that is what they were, many pages long, not mere notes.  I can safely say that she also memorized at least one poem or a psalm, or both, during that month, did various and many things about the house, did considerable reading, and perhaps went to see a motion picture, as she enjoyed doing occasionally.</P>
093.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>In 1921, Katherine became the wife of Samuel D. Russell, of Oakland, and they are the parents of a daughter and two sons.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In the summer of 1922, Mother decided she wanted to visit my brother Charles and his family, who for the previous two years had been living in Ogden, Utah.  Charles had been offered a position with the Government Highway Bureau, accepted it, and had moved his family to Ogden.  Mother's plan was to spend October 13, Charles's birthday, with him.  That being a little late in the season for an elderly person to go from California to that climate, it was suggested that we wait until the following spring.  But she had made up her mind, and had planned that my sister Alice and I should accompany her.  She considered the suggestion, but did not accept it.  We made the trip as planned, going by the Western Pacific, returning over the Southern Pacific, stopping off enroute to avoid night travel.  We spent two weeks in Ogden, had unusually good weather for October, and had many visits and rides with my brother and his family.  Mother was well, and enjoyed it all, so the trip was a complete success.  And how glad we have been that the little journey was made at that time.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It was early in November when we returned home, and Mother immediately went to work preparing for Christmas.  Her gifts were generally useful, practical ones.  I do not now know what else she made, but she bought material and cut and made, very beautifully, fifteen percale kitchen aprons for the housekeepers in her family.</P>
093.sgm:<P>On February 5, 1923, Mother's sight failed.  A few years earlier, the sight in one eye had failed, but there had been no change in the appearance of the eye, and even some members of our own family did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>Nor did she ever again see any of us clearly, although she lived five years.  For a few months she could see dimly, as if there existed a dense fog before her.  She was eighty-eight at this time, and remarkably well in every other way, but to be deprived suddenly of all those things she loved to do was almost more than she could bear--sewing, reading, writing, automobile riding, working in the garden, doing little things about the house, meetings with her Reading Club, and the Card Club, her visits to the homes of friends, her little trips out of Oakland.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The eye specialist told us it was a condition that nothing could help.  No one told Mother that, but she felt that that was true, and I do not like to think of those first few months when it seemed as if she might lose her mind at the very realization of having that most dreaded of afflictions come to her--that she could never again see.  Although she tried hard to overcome that great nervousness, that awful fear, and to be reconciled, it was three months before her will-power asserted itself sufficiently so she could use her needle a little, do some plain knitting, and she was even able to write a letter.  As time went on, it was wonderful all the things that she could do, and what self control this keeping busy enabled her to acquire.</P>
093.sgm:<P>She could not get the same pleasure out of automobile riding; she never again spent a night away from home; she could never make another quilt or rug; but she could turn a hem and sew it beautifully; she did much plain knitting of table mats and wash cloths; and she wrote long letters.  She had a writing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>A few months before her death, in a letter to my brother Charlie, Mother said she was very proud of the fact that every member of her family was busy, from herself on down to Katherine's baby boy, who was learning to walk; and she added that probably he was the busiest one of all.</P>
093.sgm:<P>If Mother's hearing had been better she could have derived much pleasure from some of the programs that came over the radio.  But after trying it, she would not consider having one, saying she much preferred hearing us read.  We read to her for hours every day.  We enjoyed this, as Mother did, for our companion, too, liked to read aloud.  We read the Bible, we read biographies, poems and fiction, articles in magazines.  In the daily papers we always omitted the crimes, accidents and other bad news, nor did we talk to Mother on depressing or unpleasant subjects, nor tell her any sad news if it could be avoided.  She was almost never left alone, even for a few minutes.  She liked to feel one of us near her.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Of the several authors, whose books she enjoyed, Joseph Lincoln was a favorite.  His New England characters were human and familiar, their humor simple and clean.  We read everything Lincoln wrote, some times we re-read one of his stories, and Mother used to wish he could turn out more books in a year.</P>
093.sgm:<P>While we read, she sewed.  Awhile before her ninetieth birthday she began to hem towels for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>It sounds almost beyond belief that a woman past ninety, in total darkness, could have done this, but I have many witnesses by whom to prove my story.  And by no means was all of Mother's time given to this work of hemming tea towels.  She hemmed other things, among them a few linen tablecloths.</P>
093.sgm:<P>She had always varied her work, and she did so now, as much as possible under the circumstances.  She wrote a little nearly every day; she always lay down for a rest in the afternoon; and we took her for a short walk sometime during the day, when the weather was favorable.  She had callers; occasionally she went for a short ride; and as has been mentioned, she always had a poem or a psalm on hand that she was memorizing.  This was done by my reading and re-reading a stanza, line by line.  When this was well learned, the next verse was taken up in the same way.</P>
093.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>Among Mother's many psalms, she recited oftenest the ninety-first, the hundred and third, and the hundred and twenty-first.  And she had a long list of fine poems that she recited beautifully.  The most difficult to memorize was Kipling's "If."  She had learned that in 1916, soon after coming home from the hospital.  For years she had known some of Longfellow's verses, and now she added to them.  She was very fond of Kipling's "L'Envoi," beginning, "When Earth's Last Picture is Painted," "The Sportsman's Prayer" was another favorite.  And she dearly loved some of Edgar Guest's homey little verses.  "When An Old Man Gets to Thinking" was one of his that she had learned.</P>
093.sgm:<P>In the autumn of 1927, although our Mother continued to keep her mind and her fingers busy, she grew a little more frail; she tired more easily.  She made several Christmas presents that year, among them, linen handkerchiefs for the men in her family, rolling the tiny hems, and taking all the little stitches herself.</P>
093.sgm:<P>About seven o'clock on the evening of Wednesday, January 11, Mother had what seemed to be a slight stroke of paralysis.  She recovered from that so she was conscious through the night and could move freely, but there came a recurrence of that condition, and she was not up again.  Although she could not speak to us after Saturday, she was conscious, and knew that we were all with her.  She knew that Charlie had arrived from Ogden on Sunday.  On Monday afternoon, she fell into a peaceful sleep, from which she did not awake.  At three o'clock on Wednesday morning, January 18, 1928, Mother passed very quietly.</P>
093.sgm:<P>The funeral service, two days later, was conducted by the Reverend Richard Van der Las, who had but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<P>Mother's ashes were laid away in Sylvan Cemetery, beside those of Father.</P>
093.sgm:<P>She lived within a few weeks of ninety-three years, the last five of which were spent in darkness.  She had kept her hands busy to the end with worth-while work.  Her mind and memory remained clear and retentive, and she retained an interest in life and its people to her last conscious moment.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Surely it would not be easy to find a record to equal that of this California pioneer lady, our Mother.</P>
093.sgm:<P>Within the three years that followed Mother's passing, death came to us twice.  On May 30, 1930, sister Nettie died very suddenly of a cerebral hemorrhage, and the following February 9, our brother Charles, without a moment's warning, succumbed to a heart attack.</P>
093.sgm:<P>It is well that our Mother was spared this sorrow--the sorrow of having the eldest and the youngest of her children taken from her.</P>
093.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">"<HI REND="italics">For he who blesses most is blest;<LB>And God and man shall own his worth<LB>Who toils to leave as his bequest<LB>An added beauty to the earth</HI>
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093.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>L'ENVOI</HEAD>
093.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><HI REND="italics">When Earth's last picture is painted, and the tubes are twisted and dried,<LB>When the oldest colors have faded, and the youngest critic has died,<LB>We shall rest, and faith, we shall need it--lie down for an aeon or two,<LB>Till the Master of All Good Workmen shall set us to work anew!<LB>And those that were good shall be happy; they shall sit in a golden chair;<LB>They shall splash at a ten-league canvas with brushes of comets' hair;<LB>They shall find real saints to draw from--Magdalene, Peter, and Paul;<LB>They shall work for an age at a sitting and never be tired at all!<LB>And only the Master shall praise us, and only the Master shall blame;<LB>And no one shall work for money, and no one shall work for fame;<LB>But each for the joy of working, and each, in his separate star,<LB>Shall draw the Thing as he sees It for the God of Things as They Are</HI>
093.sgm:<P>--RUDYARD KIPLING</P>
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093.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
093.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
093.sgm:<P>PREFACE<HSEP>3<LB>"NATURE" <HI REND="italics">By Longfellow</HI>
093.sgm: 5<LB>PART ONE: PIONEERING DAYS OF THE CROSS<LB>FAMILY, 1635-1852<LB>CHAPTER I: A BIT OF BACKGROUND<HSEP>9<LB>CHAPTER II: INTRODUCING MY FATHER<HSEP>11<LB>CHAPTER III: LEARNING A TRADE<HSEP>16<LB>PART TWO: WIDENING HORIZONS OF HAPPY<LB>FAMILY LIVES, 1852-1892<LB>CHAPTER IV: CALIFORNIA<HSEP>21<LB>CHAPTER V: INTRODUCING MOTHER<HSEP>24<LB>CHAPTER VI: THEIR MARRIAGE<HSEP>30<LB>CHAPTER VII: BENICIA<HSEP>34<LB>CHAPTER VIII: SACRAMENTO<HSEP>36<LB>CHAPTER IX: COUNTRY LIFE<HSEP>38<LB>CHAPTER X: CENTER TOWNSHIP<HSEP>40<LB>CHAPTER XI: TEAMING ON THE AUBURN ROAD<HSEP>42<LB>CHAPTER XII: A BOAT RIDE<HSEP>45<LB>CHAPTER XIII: SYLVAN SCHOOL<HSEP>47<LB>CHAPTER XIV: NEW EXPERIENCES<HSEP>51<LB>CHAPTER XV: MORE EXPERIENCES<HSEP>53<LB>CHAPTER XVI: A LARGER FARM<HSEP>55<LB>CHAPTER XVII: A ROBBERY<HSEP>58<LB>CHAPTER XVIII: FRANKIE'S DEATH<HSEP>63<LB>CHAPTER XIX: THE NEW HOUSE<HSEP>64<LB>CHAPTER XX: VACATIONS<HSEP>72<LB>CHAPTER XXI: CHOOSING A SCHOOL<HSEP>75<LB>PART THREE: MEMORIES OF OAKLAND,<LB>1892-1933<LB>CHAPTER XXII: OAKLAND<HSEP>83<LB>CHAPTER XXIII: FIFTIETH WEDDING ANNIVERSARY AND OTHER EVENTS<HSEP> 86<LB>CHAPTER XXIV: THE AUTUMN OF MOTHER'S LIFE<HSEP>90<LB>"L'ENVOI"--WHEN EARTH'S LAST PICTURE IS PAINTED<HSEP>103 <HI REND="italics">By Kipling</HI>
094.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-094</TITLE>
094.sgm:<TITLE>The Californians, by Walter M. Fisher: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
094.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
094.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
094.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
094.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
094.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
094.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
094.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-855</LCCN>
094.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
094.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
094.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>THE CALIFORNIANS</P>
094.sgm:<P>BY</P>
094.sgm:<P>WALTER M. FISHER</P>
094.sgm:<P>Milagros o&acute; no milagros, dijo Sancho, cada uno mire co&acute;mo habla o&acute; como escribe de las personas, y no ponga a&acute; trochemoche lo primero que le viene al magin.</P>
094.sgm:<P>CERVANTES, <HI REND="italics">Don Quixote</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Un historien a bien des devoirs.  Permettez-moi de vous en rappeler ici deux qui sont de quelque conside&acute;ration; celui de ne point calomnier, et celui de ne point ennuyer.</P>
094.sgm:<P>VOLTAIRE, <HI REND="italics">Letter to M. Norberg</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Et sermone opus est, modo tristi, s&aelig;pe jocoso;<LB>Defendente vicem modo rhetoris, atque poet&aelig;,<LB>Interdum urbani, parcentis viribus, atque<LB>Extenuantis eas consulto.  Ridiculum acri<LB>Fortius et melius magnas plerumque secat res.</HI>
094.sgm:<P>HORACE, <HI REND="italics">Lib. I., Sat</HI>
094.sgm:<P>London</P>
094.sgm:<P>MACMILLAN AND CO.</P>
094.sgm:<P>1876</P>
094.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">All rights reserved</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS,</P>
094.sgm:<P>CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS.</P>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>To MR. HUBERT H. BANCROFT, OF SAN FRANCISCO.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>MY DEAR BANCROFT,</P>
094.sgm:<P>Your literary genius, clear head, and warm heart, are among my pleasantest memories of California.  It is fitting that to you specially, greatest of The Californians, this book should be presented by its author, and your friend,</P>
094.sgm:<P>WALTER M. FISHER.</P>
094.sgm:<P>LONDON, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
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094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>THIS book has evolved itself, it is hoped by selection of the fittest, from the note-books of a worker in literature, engaged during the past four years in California.  The pages of "The Californians" will show that it has been its author's main business during his absence from England to observe and study, both directly and through the medium of what others have written, the people and the things he here discusses.  Though never profaning the sacredness of the bread and salt, he attempts to treat men and their ways much as if he determined the angles and the composition of a crystal, or studied in a test-tube the phenomena of certain combinations of nitrogen and carbon.</P>
094.sgm:<P>It is proverbial of travellers of a certain very old and sometime literary guild, that they should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>THEIR COUNTRY<HSEP>1<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>THEIR PIONEERS<HSEP>28<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>THEIR SPANISH CALIFORNIANS<HSEP>42<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>THEIR CHINESE<HSEP>50<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>THEIR REPROBATES<HSEP>69<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>THEIR WOMEN<HSEP>84</P>
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094.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VII.<LB>THEIR MEN<HSEP>106<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>THEIR POLITICIANS<HSEP>132<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>THEIR WRITERS<HSEP>157<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>PRO ARIS ET FOCIS<HSEP>205</P>
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094.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>THEIR COUNTRY.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Then I said, "Now assuredly I see<LB>My lady is perfect, and transfigureth<LB>All sin, and sorrow, and death,<LB>Making them fair as her own eyelids be."</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Ballad of Life</HI>
094.sgm:<P>SUPPOSE a country on the western coast of the North American continent, roughly comparable to Italy in climate, area, shape, and position, relative to the parallels and meridians; suppose it--this relative position being still maintained--to be the length of itself nearer the equator than Italy is; suppose it to have its central ridge of mountains not called the Apennines, but the Coast Range, and to have behind it for a western boundary, instead of the Adriatic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:Sea, another range of mountains called the Sierra Nevada, and there will be called up a clear enough idea of Alta California, as its old Spanish owners used to call it, or, as it is now known to the people of the United States--its present masters--the State of California.  The most trustworthy estimates give it an area of 155,000 square miles, and a present population of three-quarters of a million people, of whom a quarter of a million inhabit its principal city, San Francisco.  The whole State may be described as a diagonal band, 800 miles long and 190 miles broad, lying across an oriented parallelogram on the map, with ten degrees of longitude for a base, and ten degrees of latitude for a perpendicular.  The climate is, on the whole, Italian; varying from extreme winter cold in the mountainous districts to a wonderful mildness at all seasons on the coast and in the more favoured valleys.  It has its "rainy seasons;" the man who leaves his house then without an umbrella is likely to fare rather worse than if he did so in London.  During the other six months of the year, the summer and autumn months, rain is phenomenal; when not irrigated the soil hardens like iron, the grass becomes like a threadbare faded carpet.  The dust on every road gathers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:and drifts into banks as if it were snow; the earth becomes, in fact, a dust-bin, and the air in stormy weather a dust-bin <HI REND="italics">in transitu</HI>
094.sgm:.  It might be supposed that all this made the dry season very unpleasant.  The opposite is, however, true, at least for those who are not forced to travel much.  The dust is usually quiet enough when not violently stirred up by wheels or by horses' hoofs.  In the cities, such as San Francisco, Sacramento, Oakland, watering-carts and scavengers keep the unpleasant element in practical subjection.  The wind, except on the immediate coast, is not generally able, either in its mid-day form of the sea breeze or its night form of the land breeze, to do more than ripple the great lakes and rivers of dust, while it prevents the heat, even in mid-summer, from being oppressive.  Taken all in all, from January till December, the climate of California seems bright, mild, equable, and invigorating, above most climates with which we are acquainted by experience or description.  Nice has a mistral as keen and dangerous as the stiletto; Naples becomes a kind of Niflheimer in winter; the bright Seven Hills can be dank enough with malaria at times; and even the City of the Violet Crown has its own troubles with fever.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"`Captain, this is no place for me; you must take me back to San Francisco.'</P>
094.sgm:<P>"`But they will hang you higher than Haman if I do.'"</P>
094.sgm:<P>"`Captain,' whined the evildoer, `I would rather hang in Californian air than be lord of the soil of another country.'"</P>
094.sgm:<P>So again, "the judge," in Mr. Joaquin Miller's "First Fam'lies of the Sierra," is perpetually finding in "this glorious climate of Californy" the promise and potency of as many forms of virtue as Professor Tyndall, or even Dr. Bastian, can in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>The prevailing sunlight of California is indeed a pleasant thing.  It fills every nerve and sense with the heat and the strength, the glory and the excellency of life.  With us, in northern Europe, one is obliged most part of the year "to buy one's sun," as M. Souvestre's delightful <HI REND="italics">philosophe</HI>
094.sgm:<P>These long periods of perfectly dry weather, separated by sharply-defined seasons of heavy rain, this <HI REND="italics">re&acute;gime</HI>
094.sgm: of sunshine, tempered by the deluge, is not quite so attractive to farmers as to poets.  Mr. John Hittell, a Californian, who has written, as far as plain facts and figures are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:concerned, a most complete and trustworthy book about his adopted State, says: "Every other year, on an average, brings either a drought or a flood."  Between 1872 and 1875, inclusive, there were we believe two droughts and one flood.  In the flood, Sacramento, Marysville, and other towns suffered to the extent of the ruin of hundreds of families.  In the droughts the main crops of the State were in many places shrivelled to shadowy proportions, and great herds of cattle perished of hunger and thirst.  Apart from all this, in the excessively dry seasons, one's own blood begins to remind one of that of St. Januarius in its bottle, and the first little cloud rising "out of the sea like a man's hand" is as joyfully and earnestly watched as the priestly hand that liquefies the sacred fluid of Naples.  On the other side, long before the weather finally clears up again, everyone is ready to welcome back the dusk and the mosquito.  The mosquito--"Cheerful little cuss," cries some one, with irrepressible enthusiasm, "he sings while he works."  And that song! ah, Englishmen who live at home at ease, you will never wholly know the power of music till you have thrilled some long night through to the low and simple note of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Wierus, Milton, and European authorities generally, have disagreed as to the comparative rank and precise titles of Beelzebub and that other arch-enemy proverbially known as the father of those who should have good memories; but, however all this may be in the old world, Beelzebub, "the god of flies," is in the new world much more widely feared than Satan.  And this may well be an inducement to possible settlers from other countries--to people of the Master Smith type who are always bickering at home with oldfashioned Farmer Weathersky.  And there is another point of view from which the mosquito may be considered as a potential blessing slightly disguised.  Saint Macarius of Alexandria thought it to his interest to sleep in a marsh, exposing his naked body to the stings of venomous insects.  He seems to have become involved with the Prince of the Power of the Air, to have fallen hopelessly into his aerial highness's debt, and to have taken this heroic, creditable way to make restitution in paying as much to the pound of flesh was as possible to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>There are, however, parts of California, and there are times when heat and its attendant insects are not the main troubles of the resident or traveller.  The following notes, reprinted from a paper by the present writer in the <HI REND="italics">Overland Monthly</HI>
094.sgm: will give a detailed account of certain places and aspects of the State, hardly touched upon in print by any preceding observer.  These <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"We leave San Francisco on the 23rd of December, 1875, at four o'clock in the evening, to examine the new branch-line of the Central Pacific Railway, laid through the valley of the San Joaquin.  We set out in a dense fog, almost thick enough to fish in, and run on, with no stoppages to speak of through the night, to Bakersfield, 300 miles south of San Francisco, where we wake up at seven o'clock on the morning of the 24th, to find that the line as yet goes no farther.  Bakersfield proper seems to lie about a mile to the west of us, on a sage-brush level, where the hoar-frost glitteres and snaps with a viciousness that makes one shiver at leaving one's berth and blankets.  But it is the inevitable; what is to be done were well done quickly, if we do not wish to miss our Christmas dinner on the morrow at home.  <HI REND="italics">Bismillah</HI>
094.sgm:! then--let us wash and dress and go.  Friends await us by the platform with buggies and horses; the thin tongue of the telegraph has ordered breakfast for our party at the French Hotel.  Very welcome are the great wood fire and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"The town, with its 200 or 300 wooden and adobe houses, looks lively, considering the arctic weather.  A few women move about, tricked out fine as their surroundings permit--`Roman falls,' `Grecian bends,' top-heavy <HI REND="italics">coiffures</HI>
094.sgm:, and jaunty if somewhat crumpled hats of the latest fashion but one or two.  At one door two gentlemen in blanket coats are preparing for a journey, probably toward Panamint.  A pack-mule loaded and two horses saddled stand at the door.  The blanket coat with a fur cap is loading with scrupulous care a heavy double-barrelled gun; the blanket coat wearing a wide-awake hat is fondling a revolver with an oily rag.  The charge going into the gun is something to astonish an artilleryman; powder enough for a blunderbuss, and handfuls of BB shot and pistol-balls a quarter-inch in diameter.  To an irrepressible inquiry as to what kind of game he was going about to destroy, the fur cap replied, suspiciously and premonitorily, as if addressing a probable Vasquez or Dick Turpin: `Two-legged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"We see here signs of the future prosperity of a fine grazing country.  Irrigating canals intersect the district in many directions; drainage in the abounding swamp-lands begins to be better understood and practised--lessening the ague, which once in awhile drives all Bakersfield to quinine and profanity.  Cotton does not seem to be a success here, a thing not to be wondered at if the weather be often as it is to-day; but alfalfa clover is the present salvation of the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"But the sun climbs rapidly over the mist-robed, snow-topped Sierra Nevada to the east; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:our horses' heads are turned toward the shining locomotive where it lies-to in a heavy sea of sage-brush.  The wind from Mount Taheechaypah freezes the very marrow in our bones, as the sand flies like spray under flying hoofs and the silk cracks overhead.  At 10.45 A.M. we stand on the platform of our moving and solitarily gorgeous railroad car, bidding the frosty but kindly Bakersfield adieu.  In about three minutes we cross the Kern River, say sixty yards broad, slow-flowing, full of little low islets where willows and cottonwoods grow.  The Sierra, seemingly forty or fifty miles away on the east, shoots up above the mist like a strong wall between us and the ugly Death Valley beyond it.  Here, and all day long, we are running through a low-lying flat country.  Away to the east a hawk flies level and steady against a white cloud on the horizon; clumps of dun sage-brush like bits of degraded cloud come up to the feet of the gray telegraph-poles that lean forward, one after one, in endless malignant file, threatening with their wires as if they were soldiers armed with knouts and we wretches running the gauntlet.  On the long reaches of grassland occasional great herds of kine, black, white, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"All this while the fog has been rising and falling in a confusing way like water about the lips of some Tantalus.  At eleven o'clock we pass, without stopping, Lerdo Station--a platform, a few white tents, and a puddle or two edged with thin ice.  Another station shoots past at half-past eleven o'clock; it has a name and local habitation, but neither is distinguishable for engine smoke--we are `firing up' heavily.  Snipe spring in scared wisps from the pools and puddles illuminated through the fog by the fiery rain that our big cloudy funnel pours down like a judgment on their little cities of the plain, and escape toward the mountains for their life.  Flocks of small twittering birds, like linnets, follow, their slower flight leaving them far in the rear.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Our lonely car, insulting with its warm splendour the cold and naked land, rushes on.  Two engineers sit in front in their little pent-house, both keeping a sharp look-out, one with hand on a long lever by the furnace-door, the other holding the ready shovel and tolling his bell from time to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"There is a sharp whistle from the alert engineer; the oily breakman springs to his feet, to the door, to his break, and breathless, black in the face, twirls it as if he had suddenly found himself in an exhausted receiver, and was boring for air and dear life.  It is ten minutes to twelve o'clock just as we stop; the fog is nearly gone; we are to take in water here, and this is Delano Station--a corral--a few wooden houses--a person of tender years with blue nose, blue cloak, blue trousers, small horse and extravagantly large Mexican saddle--heaps of cattle-bones, live cattle, and sheep in multitudes, all the way out to the horizon, with lonely herders standing or riding here and there at immense distances apart--a train of canvas-covered emigrant waggons--and, `Good-bye, Delano!' we are off.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Hardly is steam got up, hardly has the faithful breakman laid down his weary limbs, when, sharp 11.45 A.M., the engine whistles again sudden and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"At 12.20 P.M. we shake the corral and half-a-dozen shanties of Tipton to their muddy foundations as we roar through, greeted by the frantic howls of a score of tow-headed children and dogs.  It is 12.27 P.M., the fog has gone west, and the peaks of the Sierra on the east shoot out clear, snow-tipped, split, shattered, filled with shadows and lights, among which rise the creeks and rivulets we have been passing at short intervals all the way up.  Along these creeks we shall henceforth be able to see the occasional settlers' huts, with hay-ricks and corrals, and the clumps and belts of cotton-wood, willow, and live-oak that line their low banks.  At 12.36 P.M. we stop a moment at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"Leaving Tulare, we begin to see fenced fields; magpies, that might have dropped from their nests in any English ash, chatter impudently; great patches of live-oak, with a few specimens of the stinging poison-oak, appear and disappear.  As the watch ticks 12.58 P.M. we pass a pretty brick house, before which children and a mother with her baby stand, while up from a slough beside it a pelican rises heavily, flying away with a weary-of-the-world-and-of-my-beak appearance.  Then plover rise in thousands, split through by two wedges of geese, and a great white swan follows.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"It is 1.6 P.M., and we are at Goshen; to wit, a saloon, a tent or two, three mules, six white men, and a Chinaman.  We leave the main line here to visit Visalia, seven miles off, starting at 1.20 P.M.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"Visalia shines up through the trees at a quarter to two.  We stop a little way from the town proper, mount a stage, and off we rattle at a break-neck speed, pulling up at a German tavern, in the barroom of which no pistols were kept in sight.  This town is decidedly a pushing, lively place, with its population of 2,500; girls move about in becoming costumes; Indians dressed with <HI REND="italics">serapes</HI>
094.sgm:, Mexican fashion, lounge and ride through streets of pretty cottages and shops--streets in fact as well as in name, with jail, school-houses, churches, and public hall.  It seems to an observer here (though no questions were asked on the subject) that the Visalia Indians have ousted the Chinese from the performance of those various lesser services that these latter monopolise so generally in California; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"At 3.30 P.M. we are back at Goshen on the main line, and resuming our journey north.  It becomes monotonous to talk of these flat lands, all just alike, lying low and convenient for irrigation from King's River, and supplying plenty of grass for abounding herds of cattle.  A month hence, we are told, the country will be one great flower-garden, far as the eye can see.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Passing one or two low muddy rivers, we run on into the fog now settling down with the darkening evening, and gain Fresno at 4.30 P.M.  Near the station to the east of the rails lies a Chinese settlement of fifteen or sixteen huts; to the west of the rails lies the town proper--fifty or sixty houses at a rough guess.  Beside `the depo&circ;t' lie piled thirty-six bales of cotton of 500 lb. each, consigned to `Eisen,' of San Francisco, and reported grown on the farm of Dr. Brandt, six miles out from the city.  This cotton is of fine quality, but rather short in the `staple.'</P>
094.sgm:<P>"At 5.50 P.M. we are off again from Fresno, running through mist and darkness, over various branches of the San Joaquin River, passing station <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"How, further, our travellers slept, and were torn from their berths by calls to visit various places during the night, possesses only a private interest.  In the morning, all found themselves rapidly nearing home, traversing that part of central California, along the Central Pacific Railroad line from Lathrop west, already so well known and described in its fertility and high state of cultivation.  The glorious scenery of the Livermore Valley, its wooded beetling cliffs, where great sycamores mingle their now yellow leaves with the green foliage of the live-oak, and with some evergreen shrub bearing red berries, that reminded us of the English holly so appropriate to that beautiful Christmas morning--all this passed rapidly before us: then was left behind, and at noon we saw the twin minarets of the Jewish synagogue among the hills and spires of San Francisco.</P>
094.sgm:<P>All over California thunder or lightning is so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:rare, that till October, 1874, many people used to say that neither was known there, except, perhaps, in the mountains.  But in that month, one of the grandest electric storms ever seen by the writer broke over the Golden Gate and San Francisco Bay.  Working late at night, he found his gaslights darkened by a blaze as if some great fire had suddenly burst out in the city.  In fact the whole heaven was on fire and burned steadily for hours.  The gas extinguished, and the windows thrown fully open, he easily continued the reading of a blurred manuscript which had just taxed all the powers of a table argand to make legible.  San Francisco is built on a number of hills--no one knows exactly how many--and from the summit of Telegraph Hill a sublime view was that night obtainable.  There, alone, our observer found the bay almost below his feet, and saw beyond it the mountains Tamalpias and Diablo, and the land and water between, all clear as in the concentrated light of a hundred noons.  Hardly a sound broke the stillness; it was an aurora borealis gone mad, rather than a thunderstorm.  Looking at the water, one could well imagine another Vesuvius aflame, and another Pliny coasting along the Bay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Away overhead, in the commune of the stars, there was wild outbreak.  All the <HI REND="italics">petroleuses</HI>
094.sgm: of the universe seemed at work; the blaze cascaded in torrents from cloud to cloud.  There a barricade went up; there, the keen flash betrayed a sharp-shooter.  One could almost smell blood through the heavy red air, or catch the thick breathing of dying men; and, at intervals, far off, the rumble of coming artillery.  Then the celestial party of order began to get the upper hand; things gradually quieted down without the whiff of grape-shot; no damage to terrestrial property or loss of human life was reported.  Indeed, we are informed that no person has ever been killed by lightning in the State, one Chinese excepted--a doubtful exception: Californian coroners' juries have a weakness for bringing in the <HI REND="italics">deus ex machina</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"We've got the best climate in the world, anyhow, though the derned place does seem shaky <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:on her pins," said a Californian after the great earthquake of 1868.  But we cannot say that during the four years from 1872 to 1875, inclusive, this "shakiness" was either very noticeable or very alarming.  The best way of showing this is by saying that, except on two or three occasions during the years mentioned, the public were indebted to scientific observers for the knowledge of twenty or thirty earthquakes not distinctly palpable to the unassisted senses.  A slight bump or jar climbs up the legs of one's desk.  Is it an earthquake--or a bale of goods dropped next door?  One cannot tell, and one does not care.  The two or three exceptions to this general mildness were, however, of an unpleasantly unmistakable character.  The first of these occurring at night when our friend had been only a few days in the State, almost decided him to leave it by the next eastern-bound train.  The inmates of his hotel were suddenly awakened by a rattling of glass and crockery, varied by an occasional crash.  For a few seconds every bed had several characteristics in common with an Irish jaunting-car on a rocky road.  An unheroic numbness took possession of every tongue and limb--but only for a moment.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:Then there came a pattering of feet, and then, from the Rachels of the caravansary and their children, such a cry welled up as was heard in Rama, or as rose over Egypt, when in every house there was one dead.  As a consequence of the first great shock, a quivering remained for several minutes, whether in the earth only, or in the legs and jaws of the observers, it was impossible to say.  Excited persons filled the corridors, some seeking safety in instant flight, and that in the most orthodox manner, providing for their journey neither scrip nor staff--nor yet two coats.  Indeed, every one was clothed pretty much as the ancient gymnosophists, and everyone was orthodox--pious vows abounded.  One understood, then, what an acute student of human nature was that traveller in Central America who wrote:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"<HI REND="italics">Dieu n'a besoin que d'une petite secousse pour constater le nombre de ses fide&grave;les</HI>
094.sgm:<P>But the danger passed; "the derned place" became "steady on her pins," and the fluttered doves returned to their cots with as little confusion as was possible.  Daylight and time showed that there was very little damage done, nobody hurt, and next to nothing lost or broken--except the pious vows.  To produce any lasting good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:result we are afraid the earthquakes must appear more frequently.  It must be said, however, that California has not been much attended to; and it is possible that even under present conditions much excellent spiritual fruit might be gathered in proper hands from this sometimes shaky branch of our world-tree, Yggdrasil.  For the information of such as may think of devoting themselves to the task, the following precise details on Californian earthquakes are subjoined from that living blue-book, Mr. Hittell:--"There is a possibility of death from them, but the possibility is so remote that it does not disturb the enjoyment of life here.  In twenty years about forty deaths have been recorded in the State, and not one of these occurred in a strong house.  The majority of the victims lived in walls of adobe, or dried mud, ready to topple over at a slight shock.  In San Francisco, several thousand brick houses, many of them three, and some four stories high, have stood for fifteen years or more, not only without coming down, but without showing any mark of injury beyond slight cracks in the plastering.  The deaths from earthquakes have been about two annually, or at the rate of one in a quarter of a million; while in the Eastern States, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Some or all of these things may seem excessively disagreeable to the reader.  But the want of water in parts of the State at certain seasons may be remedied--and in many of the more thickly settled places is already remedied--by irrigation.  The government engineers agree in reporting that this is in all places possible, either by using ditches to bring water from the larger rivers and lakes, or by the use of artesian wells; the latter, with their attendant windmill pumps, being already in profitable use in thousands of instances, their picturesque whirling vanes often suggesting a Hollandish landscape.  As to the mosquito, he must be borne with.  After all, he only becomes noxious in a high degree during a few of the summer months; and then only about dusk and at night, when all good people should be indoors behind a mosquito bar, or if out, wear a veil, use a fan, or smoke.  The great god of flies and all his myrmidons have as strong objections to tobacco as the royal author of the "Counterblast."  Lastly, as to the earthquake, it may be regarded as a light affliction and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:but for a moment.  The dangers are few and far between, and living in a properly built wooden house one might defy the worst shock that ever troubled America north of the Mexican line within historic times.  To make up for these discomforts there are many special amenities.  Prudent farmers who know how to keep a reserve, and make the year of plenty eke out the lean one, succeed as a general rule in having more time and money to spend or to save than they could win with the same exertion in Europe, or even in any other part of America.  But readers must look elsewhere than in these pages for information on such points.  Books like those by Mr. Hittell, Mr. Nordhoff, and Mr. Cronise, will give details of the marvellous beauty and luxuriance of the fruits and flowers of California--an exuberance of vegetable life at once tropical and of the temperate zone, a delight to all the senses in January hardly less than in June.  We must sharply criticise much--may perhaps cavil at too much connected with our subject; but it always remains to be said that, considered in the light of the capacities and advantages bestowed by nature, we do not know and cannot very well imagine any more pleasant land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:to live in than California--land of the lily and the myrtle and the rose, of wheat and the grape-vine, of the orange and the olive, of humming-birds and song-birds.  When one thinks of these things--of the pleasant land, sunburnt, and yet fair, "black, but comely, as the tents of Kedar, as the curtains of Solomon;" when one thinks of many a golden day and moonlit night, rich with shadowed colour, heavy with perfume as the sweet "Song of Songs" itself, and thrilling with sweeter things than colour or perfume--one is almost persuaded to be a Californian, almost persuaded like the loyal sons of the Golden State to view their country much as the suitors of Clara Pelerina regarded that Baratarian <HI REND="italics">doncella</HI>
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094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>THEIR PIONEERS.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Liegt im Thal das elegante,<LB>Cauterets.  Die weissen Ha&die;uschen<LB>Mit Balkonen; scho&die;ne Damen<LB>Stehn darauf und lachen herzlich.<LB>Herzlich lachend schaun sie nieder<LB>Auf den wimmelnd bunten Marktplatz,<LB>Wo da tanzen Ba&die;r und Ba&die;rinn,<LB>Bei des Dudelsackes Kla&die;ngen.</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Atta Troll</HI>
094.sgm:, HEINE.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB><HI REND="italics">Clown</HI>
094.sgm:: We are but plain fellows, sir.  <HI REND="italics">Autolycus</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Winter's Tale</HI>
094.sgm:<P>WHEN one comes to talk of people, of society, it is well to understand that California has at least as many faces as the philologically famous Etruscan dice, and that the markings on these faces have had as many and as conflicting interpretations in the one case as the other.  After some study of the many hundred learned travellers and clever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:writers who have devoted their energies to the subject, one rises with a vague impression that California may possibly be the answer to the famous &aelig;lia Laelia Crispus riddle: "Neither man, woman, nor hermaphrodite; neither sad nor glad; neither of the heavens above nor of the earth beneath, nor of the waters under the same; none of these, and all of them."  Perhaps for this very reason the printed notes of travellers in this State seem to be on the whole as interesting as the literature of travel belonging to many a country whose human interest dates back almost as many centuries as that of California does years.  There is such a Donnybrook fair of opinions here, such a healthy malice about the way in which each critic takes first his subject and then his fellow-critic by the beard, as is good to see in these dull days.  Then there are the mistakes which every wandering stranger is liable to make; mistakes generally amusing, though not always so trivial and innocent as that of M. L. Simonin in describing cricket as <HI REND="italics">le jeu pre&acute;fere&acute;</HI>
094.sgm: of mid-western American villages, and giving his readers an idyllic picture of boys and girls playing it together.  The gulf between base-ball and cricket is not nearly so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>It is hard not to overestimate or to undervalue qualities, manners and morals, tendencies-- <HI REND="italics">une race, un milieu, un moment</HI>
094.sgm: --differing in many points from our own.  If to augment this special difficulty--common to all men in dealing with a novelty, which either pleases or exasperates, but always puzzles them--if to augment this special difficulty preconceptions and prejudices come in, it becomes simply impossible to be just.  It matters little whether the critic be a historian of the past or of the present, whether his prejudices take the Smelfungus shape or the opposite.  The Germans of Tacitus, the Spartans of Plutarch, the primitive savages of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, owe their good fame very much less to their own virtues than to the vices of certain persons and societies that these three charming masters of historical romance condemned by contrast.  For perhaps the best <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:examples--Asiatic literature excepted--of the opposite manner of regarding the peculiarities of aliens, one may turn with advantage to those pages of Spanish historians devoted to the delineation of the Moors.  " <HI REND="italics">Esta canalla</HI>
094.sgm:," begins one of the ablest and most independent writers of his day, the Rev. Father Juan de Mariana.  "Rude, uncivilised, barbarous in language, ridiculous in dress, their breeches of common linen, their jackets short," such liveliness of expression does the grave Aznar permit himself.  All this because these two gentlemen are Spaniards and because they are speaking of persons of Moorish race.  This tone, if one can trust one's memory, is not exactly that of Sismondi, or of Humboldt, or even of Schlegel; this is not the way in which Gibbon, Hallam, Macaulay, Buckle, Mill, not to mention any living scholars, speak of the men and the culture that founded and illustrated such schools and libraries as once existed in Cordova, Seville, Granada.  These Mahomedans actually held that the earth moves; into a European Zion, very sleepy, very much at ease in dirt and ignorance, they introduced that pagan besom, physical science.  Besides, the misbelievers wore breeches, and linen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:breeches! and short jackets! and preferred the study of Greek to that of a bastard Latin!  <HI REND="italics">Va&acute;lgame Dios</HI>
094.sgm:<P>There is a mote in the eye of our worthy Spanish historian.  It is the mote of provinciality.  He has apparently mistaken "the rustic murmur of his burgh for the great wave that echoes round the world."  He sees that the ways of the people he is describing are not as his ways, nor their thoughts as his thoughts: therefore these people are objectionable; therefore they are barbarians.  Such seems his method of reasoning; starting from any wider premises, one should find it difficult to reach his conclusions.  Now, a very slight knowledge of history, even a philological glance at the word "barbarian" and its equivalents, will show that however misleading this way of reasoning may appear to us, it is a kind of logic not confined to Castilian annalists.  To come near home, and not to go very deep, a certain <HI REND="italics">chauvinisme</HI>
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094.sgm:<P>But Sterne's "Sentimental Journey" was as the face of a new king that knew not "brass money and wooden shoes;" and Larra's stinging wit behind the mask of "Figaro" made Spaniards uneasily conscious that possibly, to certain minds, <HI REND="italics">cosas de Espan&tilde;a"</HI>
094.sgm: might be made as ridiculous as Moorish fashions.  England is no longer the England of insularity; Spain is no longer the Spain so terribly handled by Buckle.  Men are not brothers in the Cain and Abel sense so much as they once were.  Even Mahound is seen to be not so much diabolic as he is black.  Our bogies, as we grow up and examine them closely, are found to have a good deal in common with the proverbial singed cat--they are better than they look.  The thousand and one little rude local weights and measures of character tend to give way before more scientific, because more universal standards.  With a profound consciousness of all this, and at the same time of our own deficiencies and limitations, let us meekly turn the world round like a schoolboy's globe and examine California.<HSEP>Now, people have been perhaps too fond of bringing out the uncouth and savage, the "Bear-Flag" side of her development--of sealing their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Yet, as applied to a type of Californian now rapidly becoming extinct, it seems hard to deny that the term Atta (ancestor) Troll would have a happy applicableness.  Heine used it as descriptive of a kind of coarse unintellectual democracy, as he believed it represented by a certain school of his contemporaries, which he ridiculed not because it was democratic, but because it was uncouth, obscurantist, Philistine.  "Lay on my coffin a sword," he somewhere says, "for I was a brave soldier in the war of liberation of humanity."  Yes, he believed in a democracy of men; what he laughed at and scourged was a democracy of bears, of trolls.  Now, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:the legendary troll is not a being to be angry with; he is a good creature up to his lights; he has certain shaggy virtues such as courage, endurance, and fidelity.  To this day such phrases as <HI REND="italics">tryggr sem tro&die;ll</HI>
094.sgm:, "trusty as a troll," are in use among the Icelanders.  The trolls, we are told, occupied at one time the whole earth, but the gods have nearly got rid of them, and replaced them by man.  And yet in lonely places away among the hills, especially where mineral treasures are to be found, a few of the old gigantic breed are said to remain.  There, as the old fire-side <HI REND="italics">So&die;gur</HI>
094.sgm: tell, they still revel and feast themselves full and snore out the night.  They are accustomed to stick their knives indifferently into a man and into a sausage, not, as Dr. Dasent truly says, "from malignity, but because they know no better, because it is their nature, and because they have always done so."  In reading of the trolls one is in fact constantly and comically reminded of the Californian gold-miners, as they are depicted in most of the literature that relates to them, and which after all cannot much exaggerate on its originals.  Go back to "the flush times," to the year of "the gold rush," to 1849, or '49 as its diminutive of endearment runs.  Imagine ten or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:twenty thousand "picked men;" picked, that is to say, by the good old process that garrisoned the Cave of Adullam.  Imagine these men by one stroke seizing, colonising, and governing a country.  Imagine these men of all classes devoting themselves in a frenzied way to the trade of navvy--a nation of navvies born in a day; without wives; precariously housed, clothed, fed, paid; drinking when in luck their champagne from buckets, when out of luck dining with a friend, sometimes with an unwilling friend--an indiscretion apt to involve an after-dinner speech from Judge Lynch and a supper with Polonius.  It was a wild, strolling navvy existence; each man went about with his fortune in the air if not in the earth, and his life in his hand; many with one or two lives on their conscience--the word being used in its strictly etymological sense.  It was a life for the most part of excessive drudgery, under which men of fine fibre sank if not immediately favoured by fortune.  The coarse, the horny-handed, the bull-throated, were most successful.  They set the fashion, these great men of the pick-axe and the pistol, and a fine fire-eating, antediluvian, reckless fashion it was.  But (with marked, brilliant, and honourable exceptions), <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:its followers were not the kind of people to develop and ornament the more civilised Californian society that was to come, and which is now founding, by a wholly different class of persons.  Many indeed of these miners dug out gold enough to put them in the way of playing either the Prodigal Son or the Bourgeois Gentilhomme.  Some tried with astonishing success a little of both ro&circ;les at once, and kept up their parts during periods varying from one scene to the regular five acts.  But as a class, and a few notable exceptions aside, these men are to-day the invalids, the Greenwich pensioners, the Struldbrugs of the land they inhabit.  They are "survivals" of the past, which will become extinct with the wild grizzly bear.  Already they are formed into a self-preservation society.  They have their "Pioneers' Hall," where they meet in periodical <HI REND="italics">trolla-thing</HI>
094.sgm:.  There they revel; there they put on their giant-mood, and permit themselves such vivacities of personal debate, such excessive hilarity, such extreme delirium of <HI REND="italics">Ba&die;renseligkeit</HI>
094.sgm:, as shock the nerves even of the San Francisco newspaper reporter.  A chairman of their own told them at "a regular meeting," as reported in <HI REND="italics">The Call</HI>
094.sgm: of July 6th, 1875, that their proceedings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:would be "disgraceful to a Kearny Street den--would disgrace a brothel almost."  But that referred mainly to what had happened in "regular meetings" in public, as it were; there are saturnalia and an arcanum that none but the initiate fully know.  There the <HI REND="italics">ursus ferox</HI>
094.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">troll vulgaris</HI>
094.sgm: celebrates with unmaimed rites the epiphany of his "glorious westering star."  There those whose right it is to go within the veil are said to pour out libations before strange gods at the bar or altar of their temple, and even to become pythonic over the fumes of that cave where their Kentuckian Bacchus slumbers fitfully in very old wood.  There the old adventurers liken themselves to Jason, to Ulysses, to the stern heroes of the May-Flower.  In overpowering numbers, armed with the revolvers and the rifles of the nineteenth century, they seized an undefended country and practised the trade of navvy.  They compare their achievements to those of Cortez and Pizarro--to the disadvantage of Pizarro and Cortez.  Pity strives in them with scorn as they look down on such wretched creatures as did not cross "the plains," or enter the Golden Gate at the time of the bear hegira into California, the troll-era, '49.  They lower their eyes almost with modesty at mention of the F.F.V's., the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Now, one need hardly say that the old man sowing wild oats is not a pleasing character.  The Californian Struldbrug, like someone mentioned in the French proverb, may have been beautiful when he was young; but then that youth is so far off now; it belongs to such a distant aorist past.  To-day he very generally abuses "that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:privilege which men have of being ugly."  Will certain tourists ever forget one typical face that met them in a lonely place among the "Foothills?"  They inquired in vain of its owner touching various things desirable to be known of the natural history of the district in which he lived.  He persisted in answering with a history of himself, and the assertion that he was "the yoldest Argynat" (Argonaut) "in all these yer parts," and that he had "wiped out more Injins an' greasers" than any other assassin of the locality.  He had an interesting face, a sallow, expressionless, pimpled face; long wild black hair; the whole giving the impression of a bit of sandy beach, pitted and mounded, lying between reaches of kelp--for eyes, two dead jelly-fish; for nose, a purple and battered sea anemone.  Mouth, shut like a steel trap, yet wrinkled and puckered as if closed like certain bags by an inside running string.  Great Nature, who selects the fittest, who does all things well, who evolves the snout of the ichthyosaurus and the pouch of the pelican, has in this new typical mouth wrought a focus of wrinkling at one extremity, giving the lips as a whole the contour of a button-hole.  To what end?  Ah caviller! does nature sublimate her forces? does she work <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>We have already had occasion, in a highly delicate and figurative manner, to liken to scars on a damsel's fair face some trifles that detract from the beauty of the Golden State.  This simile, the fair face excepted, would apply, however, in the highest degree, only to California in her first avatar, as Atta Troll, the Pioneer.  But let not even the worthy Troll be discouraged; the ages have their compensations, their consolations in store; let him drink into his ears this Slavonic scripture, so aphoristic and so touching: "In the other world every pock-mark shall become a pearl."  Our hero will at least be worthy to serve as a matchless, priceless, shining pillar for one of the pearly gates.</P>
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094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>THEIR SPANISH CALIFORNIANS.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Toda la vida es suen&tilde;o.</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Drama by CALDERON.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>J'attends,--quoi?--Je ne sais, mais j'attends.</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Mademoiselle de Maupin</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THOUGH it is something like impossible in the present condition of census returns to make any accurate estimate, we should imagine that there are about fifteen thousand persons of more or less purely Spanish blood in California.  European settlements began to be established there in the middle of the eighteenth century, in 1769, by the <HI REND="italics">Padres</HI>
094.sgm: of the Franciscan Order.  These settlements, "missions" as they were called, scattered here and there, from San Diego in the south to Sonoma in the north, consisted each of a few soldiers from Mexico, and of a few priests, who gathered as many native Indians round them as could either by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:force or wile be induced to come into the fold in each district provided.  In time the soldiers, Spanish or Spanish-Mexican, reared families, wives of their own race joining them sometimes, or, as it often happened, wives of Indian blood having been appropriated or bought.  In 1822, Mexico revolted from Spain, and in 1836, following this example, the sub-colony of California, after a bloodless revolution, "a tearless victory," and a due issue of <HI REND="italics">pronunciamientos</HI>
094.sgm:, became virtually independent of Mexico.  Ambitious native <HI REND="italics">hidalgos</HI>
094.sgm: followed each other in quick succession as chiefs of the new republic; but the country was in fact a wide Abbey of The&acute;le&grave;me, not exactly in the sense of being an educational establishment, but in that of being a place where every one did pretty much what was right in his own eyes.  Foreign politics were discussed in a kind of Dover Court, where all spoke and none listened; and as to matters of internal government, every patriarchal <HI REND="italics">hidalgo</HI>
094.sgm: ruled his own servants and family as he listed, in his own private kingdom of Yveto&circ;t.  Even the traditional Iberian reverence for the clergy and for all that pertains to them seemed to die out of the blood of the western Don Fulano, and the republic confiscated to profane <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:uses and very often to private pockets the lands and property of the monks--"secularised the missions," as the happy phrase ran.  Everything went cheerily as a marriage feast till the Yankees ("los Americanos," as they were from the first distinctively and prophetically named) spied out the land and descended upon it in twos and threes, the rifle on the shoulder, and that irresistible something in the soul which has been vaguely termed "manifest destiny."  The new-comers were greasy trappers, half-savage hunters, Goths, as compared to the few most cultivated of the race they displaced; but Goths or not, "dear to the Eumenides and to all the heavenly brood."  It was the old British story retold; the dark-haired race faded from their seats; the subtlety, the hardness, the audacity of the viking and the berserkr breed blighted or appropriated all things.  In 1846, California became in effect United States territory; in 1849, the opening of the gold-diggings flooded the country with adventurers from the four quarters of heaven; in 1850, California was admitted to the Union as a Sovereign State.  The old pastoral Spanish days were gone for ever; the Saxon oath and the Saxon pick resounded in glen and on hill-side.  With a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:gloomy brow, and his hand against the knife-hilt, the <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
094.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">caballero</HI>
094.sgm: watched the storm from his verandah, glad if he could preserve his roof and protect his daughters and his wife.  The meanest runaway English sailor, escaped Sydney convict, or American rowdy, despised without distinction the bluest blood of Castile, and the half-breeds descended from the Mexican garrison soldiery--habitually designating all who spoke Spanish by the offensive name "Greasers."  "Insult," said M. Victor Hugo, over the grave of Fre&acute;de&acute;ric Lemai&circ;tre--"insult is a kind of triumph."  Of this sort of triumph the "Greasers" have had more than enough, and it has gone hard with them.  They had grown up among simple priests and the most harmless, quiet race of Indians in the world.  They were isolated, few in number, far removed from the experience and the rough turmoil of the age, gentle and mild in their manners, naturally averse to violence, sentimental, affectionate, and almost childlike; their very weaknesses and follies and little affections of self-importance are touching.  We pity them, and take their part as that of the weak against the strong.  As a collective people they remind us, in many points, of Oliver <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:Goldsmith, as he is lovingly depicted by a great and lovable critic.  Among other things written almost to be applied to our purpose, Thackeray says, "The insults to which he had to submit are shocking to read of--slander, contumely, vulgar satire, brutal malignity, perverting his commonest motives and actions.  He had his share of these, and one's anger is roused at reading of them--as it is at seeing a woman insulted or a child assaulted--at the notion that a creature so very gentle and weak, and full of love, should have had to suffer so.  And he had worse than insult to undergo--to own to fault, and deprecate the anger of ruffians."  Fault! ah, yes!  Who is it has said that the Jesuits found Spain a nation of heroes and left her a nation of hens?  Our <HI REND="italics">Californianititos</HI>
094.sgm: had faults; they suffered too much, they trusted too much.  They did not know the world as he knows it--that king of men, whose stare goes throughout little Utopias and optimisms, and kills them: "Not what thou and I have promised to each other, but what the balance of our forces can make us perform to each other; that in so sinful a world as ours is the thing to be counted on."  They did not count on this; and when they saw themselves tricked, spoliated, on the way to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:being exterminated by armed squatters and queer laws, queerly administered, they might perhaps have stood up for their own; they might have remembered the days when <HI REND="italics">Castilla la Vieja</HI>
094.sgm: did not produce "hens;" they might have fallen across the hearths they have lost, clutching the broken knife, and with finger-nails of another colour than that left by the dull stain of the <HI REND="italics">cigarrito</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Our poor old patriarchs lived by their flocks and herds--mildest of feudal soil-lords--with their Indian serfs about them; simple and weak; at once meek and proud--as no race can be but the Castilian--living primitively, contentedly, slowly, long.  Life at middle-age became a kind of siesta that dozed itself into evening death in the pleasantest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:and most imperceptible manner possible.  With such noble exceptions as General Don Mariano Vallejo, the Spanish-Californian boys and young men grew up merely hard riders and tireless sportsmen--"ymps" who could tame wild bulls and rob the she-bear of her whelps.  But their mental culture was of the most childish kind, and they found (again an exception or two aside) no Una among the languid houris of their native glades, no maidens very well fitted to develop their minds or polish their tastes.  So they had bear-fights and bull-fights, and bear <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
094.sgm: bull-fights; and they grew fat and lazy, and lay in the sun-- <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
094.sgm: pulled low on the brow--and smoked, and chewed "jerked-beef," and soaked in their wine till the wits in four polls out of five of them grew dull and woolly as the meat of an addled egg.  Their ease was not, and is not, without a certain dignity; it is hard to kill the <HI REND="italics">caballero</HI>
094.sgm: --the gentleman--out of veins where flows, no matter how dully, one drop of the old <HI REND="italics">sangre azul</HI>
094.sgm:.  The worst and weakest of them has that indefinable something about him that lifts so immeasurably the beggar of Murillo above the beggar of Hogarth.  Above all, there is in none of them any touch of volunteer familiarity, of intrusiveness, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:of Paul Pryism.  Their aesthetics are <HI REND="italics">nil admirari</HI>
094.sgm:, their policy is administrative nihilism, their religion <HI REND="italics">Islam</HI>
094.sgm: (subscribed with a cross).  In philosophy they have reached the last word of modern thought as prophetically and as completely as Montaigne; and their habitual <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
094.sgm:? is only <HI REND="italics">Que sc&cedil;ais-je</HI>
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094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>THEIR CHINESE.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I cannot tell, good sir, for which of his virtues it was: but he was certainly whipped out of the court.</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Winter's Tale</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE Chinese are, perhaps, the best servants and the worst masters Americans know.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Since Buddha Dharma cut his sleepy eyelids off and formed the first tea-plant, there never was such tea as slim Schu Wo used to brew for us in his restaurant, sign of the Fiery Flying Dragon, Jackson Street, San Francisco.  Not every one dared come within the shadow of the Dragon's wings, least of all to that sacred upper room and balcony, where only the silkiest tunics and the glossiest pigtails were permitted to intrude upon a few white barbarians whom--or whose purses--our host celestial delighted to honour.  Such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:porcelain!--each cup delicate, fragrant, as if shaped from a white rose-leaf.  Such sweetmeats!--with their delicious charm of forbidden fruit, for were they not made of one knew not what? coloured, as like as not, with barbarian blood?  Such muskscented cigars!  Such bended brazen tobacco-pipes! so big, and yet which held so little; to be refilled momentarily by automaton attendants, with a strange machinery of tubes and slides; and to be lit by a kind of slow match which kindled itself miraculously, being blown upon with a jugglery of the lips which no man may attain who can pronounce the letter r.  And then the typical opium-pipe, modelled on the lines of an Irish shillelagh, with the addition of a mouthpiece at one end and of a pin-hole at the other to stick the opium-pea against--to addle a head from within, or to crack it from without, an incomparable tool.  On us, strangely enough, at least as used in the first of these ways, it had no effect save that of producing an intense appetite for gargles; but up to a certain stage we used to watch with enjoyment the sons of the placid Orient as they, gradually losing their natural apathy--that indefinable expression of eyelid and mouth-corner peculiar to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>We have seen enough.  Let us go.  No opium-smoker can be a hero to his <HI REND="italics">valet-de-chambre</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Following the latest average figures of the year 1875, as given by <HI REND="italics">The San Francisco Chronicle</HI>
094.sgm:, there are 130,000 Chinese in California--30,000 in the city of San Francisco alone.  Saysthe same paper at the same time: "Whatever industry they have attacked they have captured; whatever they have attempted they have mastered; whenever there has been an encounter between them and our own people they have come off victorious.  And these are said to be the very offscouring of the Chinese ports.  If then such results come to us from contact with 130,000 of their lowest grade <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>This has no uncertain sound, and we give it as fairly characteristic of the present general tone of Californian newspapers on the subject--a few exceptions aside.  Those whose business it has been to examine files of Western leading articles as far back as say 1862, must have observed a gradual change in their way of treating this matter.  The original note of patronising contempt for the "yellow trash" is dying off into something between a cry of serious dissatisfaction and a quaver of even shriller emotion.  And to those who must answer it "the Chinese question" does indeed loom up with something like a paralysing mystery.  To comprehend one's adversary thoroughly is a most comfortable thing; but to meet a possible foe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:whose weapons and tactics are of the dark and quiet sort, who fires no gun and shakes out no flag, but whose pick you can faintly hear as he works in the sunken mine, as he pushes forward what may be a torpedo, one's cry is then like that of Ajax--not for strength but for light.  East has met West.  The West is the stronger in open fight, but it is no part of the Eastern nature to decide any conflict in open fight.  The East is the serpent become man, quiet, subtle, dust-swallowing--not strong but subtile, with a subtilety sometimes mightier than strength.  The Turanian has struck his fangs into the Aryan at the Aryan's weakest point, in California; and two things turn all the white man's life and blood to fire: he can neither catch his adversary upon the hip nor avoid him; he can neither despise his adversary nor comprehend him.  To the Irish or English-born peasant, to the German <HI REND="italics">Bauer</HI>
094.sgm:, to the native American teamster and miner--in short, to all those who make up the proletarian class in the Great West, the Chinese is not a man but an infernal puzzle and portent.  What is to be done with men who have no beard to speak of, who plait their hair like women, whose skins are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:yellow, who have five cardinal points in their compass, who consider the left hand the place of honour, whose code of politeness enforces the wearing of the hat in presence of those whom they delight to honour, whose books read from right to left, and whose virtues and vices stop and begin in most unheard-of manner?  They live huddled together like herrings in a barrel, yet they are wonderfully given to the care of their hair and their teeth, and are miraculously proper in their persons, unless exception be taken to those long finger-nails against which the ingenious hidalgo warned Sancho as that " <HI REND="italics">puerco y extraordinario abuso</HI>
094.sgm: "--that beastly habit.  With faces serene and cherubic they knock on the head or abandon to the cayotes every now and then some superannuated individual of their race; yet, as a class, they are pious towards the old in an extraordinary degree.  More, perhaps, than any other laws and customs on earth, since the Roman <HI REND="italics">patria potestas</HI>
094.sgm: died of what was in a double sense its <HI REND="italics">belle mort</HI>
094.sgm:, does the Chinese code enforce "the commandment with promise"--promise, in this case, of the public bamboo, or worse, for breach of filial duty.  They are industrious to the point of cruelty; they and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:their gang-masters wring almost incredible hours of labour out of each other, and out of their miserable horses, in such rare instances as these are employed for Celestial purposes.  Not even the horse can compete in "cheap labour" with the Chinese.  They are not given to strong liquors, nor do they honour the "blue Monday" of European industry; but once or twice a month they may lie comatose with opium for a whole day--the cheapest of all ways of spending a holiday.  They are patient beyond any ass that bears cross on back, patient to a degree which should entitle them to that citizenship in Uz which the courts try to refuse them in California.  They are, under all ordinary temperatures of abuse, meek beyond Moses, "'umble" beyond Mr. Heep.  Yet, do not imagine that the yellow blood cannot be made hot.  You heap your unscriptural coals of fire about it, you heat the furnace seven times; still no dangerous change in the strange fluid.  But beware! it has only recoiled upon itself, only taken the spheroidal form; another touch, the shock of an atom, and the explosion may come.  Better have to do with a Malay when he runs the muck than a thoroughly infuriated Chinaman.  His hate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:hunts slow and sure.  He can be strangely cruel and pertinacious as a sleuth-hound.  If you prick us, do we not bleed?  Yes, and by the Dragon! if you prick us <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"Fire and flame!" screamed the ogre in the Norse story.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Fire and flame, yourself!" replied Shortshanks.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Can you fight?" roared the ogre.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"If I can't I can learn," said Shortshanks.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Our Shortshanks in California has on several occasions shown his assailants that he "can learn," and the innocent-looking blue or white tunic of his now hides, six times in ten, the "toothpick" of Arkansas, the Pandean pipes of Connecticut.  He shoots a little wildly just as yet, and with the knife he is too much inclined to slash instead of thrust; but there is no doubt that he "can learn," and is learning, to drop his man as prettily as if he were "'Melican" born.  Recourse, however, to open fight is the last resort of the Chinese settlers.  Their chief men understand tolerably well that their strength, for the present, is to sit still--or, rather, to go softly while pretending to sit still.  Time seems to be their best weapon.  Five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:great companies or corporations exist in China to furnish them with recruits.  These five have a permanent general committee stationed in San Francisco.  Taken together, all these are commonly spoken of as "The Six Companies."  As affairs go at present here lies the hopelessness of the fight waged against the yellow workmen by the white trades-unions; it is a fight like that in the story, with a "giant who had no heart in his body."  No blow affected him, for his vital centre was hidden away across seas.  The tawny giant in California has the Pacific Ocean between his heart and his enemies.  Every Chinese coolie "ratanned"--assassinated--in California, The Six Companies replace by two within a month.  They are rich--rich enough in money and credit almost to buy California in open market, and certainly rich enough in men to populate not California only, but the United States.  In the latter country there cannot be to-day many more than 30,000,000 men of Aryan speech; to dilute or drown these thirty millions out of existence, how many monosyllabic persons could not China spare from her 400,000,000 Turanians?  This is not a schoolman's question, a question of possibilities, it is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:question of the actual, of probabilities, for China heads the list of her inconsistencies by <HI REND="italics">koutouing</HI>
094.sgm: to the Zeit Geist.  The most stay-at-home of nations pours out her people now into Australasia and America--perversely diregarding, however, the old Asiatic and European law of such movements--by going east instead of west.  Always a riddle to the students of political ethology, she is going about again to defeat their calculations.  A few generations ago it was fashionable in certain quarters to eulogise China as having "realised from the highest antiquity the type of a rational society, founded on equality, open competition, and an enlightened administration."  The people were educated by the state, and no "bloated aristocracy" blighted the Flowery Land; merit, however obscure, was sought out and advanced by an elaborate system of inspectors; the emperor was a kind of glorified good boy set at the head of a great national class of good boys.  He was devout--morning and evening and at noon the smoke of his joss-sticks went up to heaven; he was grave and simple in tastes and economical; his edicts and conversation were enlivened by excellent little maxims worthy of Benjamin Franklin.  He occasionally composed verses of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:philosophy and beauty that would not misbecome the sublime muse of Mr. Martin Farquhar Tupper; and above all, he was accustomed to encourage the humblest industry by guiding at certain seasons the plough with his own imperial hands.  What was not to be expected from such a fulfilment of so many conditions of good government?  Surely, to use the impulsive words of the late Mr. Thomas Moore, "If there be an elysium on earth, it is this, it is this."  Alas, not quite.  The only thing certain about China, as about most attempts at the Utopia is that you are never certain of anything there resulting as it has been proved it must result.  M. Ernest Renan, writing in 1858, considered the fruit of all the above-mentioned fine blossoms to be this: "A state of decrepitude without parallel in history, where an empire of--millions of men waits the coming of a few thousand barbarians to bring it masters and regenerators.  What happened on the invasion of the Roman Empire by the Germanic bands will happen again with China."  Perhaps; <HI REND="italics">c'est possible</HI>
094.sgm:.  But what if China again deceives us?  What if the Pacific should take the place of the Alps in quite a different sense from that prophesied by the famous orientalist?  What if the Chinese <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:appropriate the ro&circ;le of the <HI REND="italics">bandes germaniques</HI>
094.sgm:<P>It is an age of machinery; "things are in the saddle and ride mankind."  Of all machines, in several important respects, Chinamen are the most perfect.  It is because they are imagined to be nothing but machines that they are so little feared, so unjustly contemned.  American employers of capital consider it profitable to use these machines to an already great and a constantly-increasing extent, shipping them into California in immense numbers--as many as 19,000 have arrived in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:a single year.  Even as far east as Massachusetts the advancing yellow wave is creating a "bore" in the mouth of some of the largest white rivers of trade.  <HI REND="italics">If</HI>
094.sgm: the American capitalists involved should, as some people suspect, be making a mistake in encouraging this?  Men laughed a long time at the <HI REND="italics">ifs</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Bring on the play then; up with our decorations; up with these big Chinese lanterns--up among the folds of the Union flag!  If the flag takes fire as it did in that unfortunate affair of the tar-barrels, no matter!  In the meantime we shall make money.  <HI REND="italics">That</HI>
094.sgm: is our business.  Fire! that does not concern us others in Washington.  Are we firemen?  Ah, but these vulgar are so stupid! they learn nothing--not even political economy with the help of greenbacks; they forget <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Well, perhaps after all there is nothing in this alarm.  There are so many <HI REND="italics">ifs</HI>
094.sgm: about it; and the pursuit of the <HI REND="italics">if</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Possibly enough our speculations in the matter of the Celestial migration are of as unpractical a character as any of these; but what is matter of fact is that where the yellow workman appears the white workman disappears with alarming celerity and certainty.  The first step of the yellow workman in developing any branch of industry on which he fixes himself is to starve off his pale competitor.  The Chinese have already in most parts of California secured a practical monopoly of such trades as woollen manufacturing, boot-making, public <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:laundry work, domestic service, cigar-making, navvy-work, fruit preserving, market gardening (hard run here by Italians), costermongering, and "placer" mining.  They are pressing into watch-making.  In fishing, especially in shell-fishing, and in farm labour their competition begins to be felt.  While we are told, on the authority of that most trustworthy journal, the Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Record-Union</HI>
094.sgm:<P>But the conquered, even with life left to them, take unkindly to their position.  This is, of course, a violation of the divine law of <HI REND="italics">Laissez-aller</HI>
094.sgm:; sinful and foolish, but, perhaps, under the circumstances, not wholly unnatural.  The Chinese are the victims of frequent assassinations, incendiary crimes, riots--the latest of which, accompanied by their expulsion from a village called Antioch, with the burning of the entire quarter occupied by them, was reported the other day in London, by a telegram dated May 2nd, 1876.  It is not, however, that California has not first tried legal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>As the game stands there is nothing finally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>We have said "or the good," for we are not bigoted in the belief that the Chinese, as admitted to the United States under present conditions, are a growing element of danger and of discord.  We shall be heartily glad to have it proved that all our fears are groundless.  Above all, we have no prejudice against the Chinese on account of colour, speech, or religion; and no personal ill-will against them on any account--only we prefer not to have their acquaintance forced upon us.  The writer of this work has already risked--and would again, in like circumstances, risk--his limbs, to see Chinese, as individuals, get, at least, fair play when attacked with unfair weapons or by unfair odds.  In that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:sense, at least, we do believe in the maxim of the Antonine era, <HI REND="italics">Omnes homines natura &aelig;quales sunt</HI>
094.sgm:<P>The clouds are black over California towards Hong-Kong.  The sign may be auspicious, but, at least, it does not so appear to those immediately under it.  Possibly it is a fertilising rain; possibly, on the other hand, it is the deluge.  It has been said that the immediate evils connected with the new Mongolian movement are the same as those caused by the introduction of any metal or wooden labour-aiding machine.  But there seems to be a difference, after all, between a machine of flesh and one of iron or hickory.  There is a certain gray matter in every Chinese skull not to be found in any power-loom or steam-press.  No known engine of mere wheel and axle has a habit of dismissing its engineers, running alone, and pocketing its profits.  Between a duel with the most complete of automatic targets and a duel with a man, there always remains <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>As Balzac said of a perhaps more serious subject: "This question bristles with so many <HI REND="italics">ifs</HI>
094.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">buts</HI>
094.sgm: that we bequeath it to our descendants; we must leave them something to do!"  Let us hope then that our question may reach the next generation of Americans, <HI REND="italics">he&acute;risse&acute;e</HI>
094.sgm: with nothing worse than <HI REND="italics">ifs</HI>
094.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">buts</HI>
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094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>THEIR REPROBATES.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Aude aliquid brevibus Gyaris et carcere dignum,Si vis esse aliquis.--JUVENAL, <HI REND="italics">Sat</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Both in deed seeme to have received some hellish character (if there may be bodily representation) of that olde Serpent in these new fashions, striving who shall shape himselfe, neerest to that misse-shapen ugliness, wherein the Indian jagges himself out of humane lineaments, the other swaggers himselfe further out of all Civill and Christian ornaments.--SAMUEL PRUCHAS, <HI REND="italics">His Pilgrimes</HI>
094.sgm:<P>If you'll take 'em as their fathers got 'em, so and well; if not, you must stay till they get a better generation.--DRYDEN.</P>
094.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA shares with other very new countries the annoyance of being a kind of Alsatia.  It is a sanctuary where the old-fashioned "king's writ runneth not," much frequented by persons who have not lived harmoniously with the higher powers belonging to certain "effete civilisations."  Men of older lands who find themselves at home, cabined, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>The helots from Europe stagger a little as they move through their New World arena, full of the strong wine of liberty.  In the United States the political power and privilege of the lower classes is, for good or evil, undoubtedly a reality everywhere exercised and everywhere felt.  Wherever that class of the people called "the people" sits, <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
094.sgm: is the head of the table; and on that table is spread no merely imaginary feast of the Barmecide, no merely tantalising banquet in Barataria.  Sancho Panza is now governor of his island, without mistake.  For universal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Naturally enough, if there is one species of snobbishness which more than another characterises the man of poor mind with his pockets filled and the stirrups fitted to his instep, it is deference to wealth for wealth's simple sake, and contempt of poverty without regard to its conditions.  Surely it was a Slavonic cavalier of this class who inspired the satire of the Russian proverb: "Poverty is no sin, but twice as bad."  In California, as in all plutocracies of "self-made men," of men whose fathers did not find it convenient to afford them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:culture, and who have not had leisure to plant and ripen for themselves that plant of slowest growth, the capacity for appreciating finer distinctions than a money one, is confined to a secluded and impuissant few.  It is, indeed, hardly an exaggeration to say that the general temper of Western society tends to make its poorer members feel not only unfortunate but infamous.  Readers must comprehend the full drift of this deliberate assertion before they can understand the terrible and exceptional force of the motives which here drive men who could be honest elsewhere, to soil themselves with abominable iniquity in business and in politics, well assured that "success" will justify almost all its measures with that lowest, most ignorant class of the people who are the majority, and whose coarse clamour is called "public opinion."  Money here is the Rome to which all roads must tend that hope to secure travellers.  But, after all, the number of those who can become rich, even with the help of dishonest means, is limited everywhere--the majority must fail in this attempt; and here, where such failure means so much--means everything indeed--that failure is saddest.  San Francisco is full of social <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>From the causes above given, and from others, there results a dangerous and criminal "residuum" of extraordinary numbers and audacity.  As has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:been said, it may be divided into two classes: those who are in prison and those who ought to be--the latter by far the larger and more dangerous section.  Those out of prison support themselves by begging and stealing, both by cosmopolitan methods and by such provincial forms of procedure as brigandage on a large scale, and highway robbery by one or two individuals.  Mexico-Californian half-breeds, such as Vasques (captured and hanged in 1875) and Chavez (reported killed in the early part of 1876) gather from half-a-dozen to two dozen ruffians of their own stamp, and, well armed and mounted, capture and sack whole villages in the southern counties of the State; retreating across the Mexican line when opposed in earnest and in force.  The "Greasers" thus monopolise the south; but in the middle and northern counties the "Throw up your hands!" of the Saxon "road-agent" is as familiar as "Stand and deliver!" was in England not many generations ago.  These "road-agents" are generally recruited among the distressed miners and farm-labourers of the mountain and country districts.  The general climate is so mild that the farmer is able to live, and as a rule does live, in a farm-house much inferior to corresponding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:buildings in the Eastern United States or in Europe.  He does not, in a majority of cases, house his field hands or employ them regularly.  This system of agricultural economy results in leaving five-sixths of the farm-labourers to be vagrants--and under temptation to become dangerous vagabonds--during half the year.  In fact the master--the farmer himself--is often as little settled and <HI REND="italics">range&acute;</HI>
094.sgm: as an Arab or a Tartar.  These circumstances, if not soon got rid of, will involve serious misfortunes to the State.  As they are just the matters which hasty travellers cannot well become acquainted with, and which the mere <HI REND="italics">city</HI>
094.sgm: Californian may be tempted to deny, we must be allowed to strengthen the evidence of our own observations by two extracts from leading articles in leading Californian newspapers:  <HI REND="italics">The Evening Bulletin</HI>
094.sgm: of July 14th, 1875, says that "One cannot travel much through the farming districts of California without being struck with the shabby farm buildings seen in all directions...  The house is little more than a shed, and the barn, if there is any, is a mere shelter for old waggons and harness, and perhaps for a few tons of hay.  The `improvements' are unsightly and repulsive...  Heretofore a large number of men engaged in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Says, again, <HI REND="italics">The Morning Chronicle</HI>
094.sgm: of September 5th, 1875: "The system of farm labour in California is undoubtedly the worst in the United States.  It is bad for the farmers themselves, and worse, if possible, for those whom they employ.  In many respects it is even worse than old-time slavery.  That, at least, enabled the planter to know what labour he could depend upon in any emergency, and made the labourers certain at all times of shelter, clothing, food, and fire.  Our system does neither.  The farmer must take such help as he can get--hunting it up when most hurried and paying whatever is demanded.  The labourers themselves, knowing that they cannot be permanently employed, demand high prices, do their work carelessly, and start out on a tramp for another job.  Under our system large numbers of men are wanted for a short time; more than any ordinary farmhouse can accommodate, even if the employer dare trust so many strangers within <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:his walls or admit them into his family circle.  The result is that labourers are compelled to sleep in barns, outhouses, or in the open fields.  In this climate that is no hardship, it is true, but the practice leads to uncleanness, carelessness of appearance, and recklessness of conduct.  Men seem thus to have been thrown outside of social influences, and even if at the outset possessing good impulses and habits, they become, in a short time, desperate, degraded, or criminal, and perhaps all three.  The men are no worse than others would become under similar influences.  They are shut out from all the purifying influences of society and home as effectually as so many sailors or soldiers.  What wonder is it then, that five out of six of the class of farm-labourers, unemployed for half the year, become worthless, drunken, and dissolute tramps and outcasts?  There is no condition in life more unfavourable to the morals of men than that which great numbers of our farm-labourers occupy.  They annually squander in dissipation, and generally in a few weeks, all they have earned, and hang around the towns and cities the rest of the year, hunting odd jobs and living, pecuniarily, from hand to mouth, not seldom by charity.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>We think both these articles, especially the latter, slightly overstate their complaint, but on the whole their statements are sadly exact.  Add to them the following advertisement in the ablest and oldest satirical and comic newspaper of California, in <HI REND="italics">The News Letter</HI>
094.sgm: of December 18th, 1875: "Wanted, work for a thousand starving immigrants:" add this--allowing for the licensed exaggeration of its source--and there is no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:difficulty in accounting for the fact that a majority of rural Californians sleep with the rifle in the bedroom, and travel revolver in pocket; while the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
094.sgm:<P>But the country districts have no monopoly of evil-doers.  The towns are infested, not only by the ordinary full-grown roughs and scoundrels pertaining to all cities, but by a distinct class of armed juvenile blackguards, locally known as "hoodlums."  What the derivation of the word "hoodlum" is we could never satisfactorily ascertain, though several derivations have been proposed; and it would appear that the word has not been very many years in use.  But, however obscure the word may be, there is nothing mysterious about the thing; to use the much-abused phrase of M. Taine, this vice is as natural and simple a product as vitriol or sugar.  The monopoly which the Chinese have of the lowest kinds of labour, and the uniform policy of the trades' unions which virtually excludes apprentices <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:from the more skilled trades--an almost inevitable policy, in view of the constant influx of highly-trained workmen and mechanics from Eastern America and Europe--all this makes hand-work of any kind for the native youth either despicable and unremunerative, or hard to get.  Clerks and shopmen are, of course, only wanted in numbers relatively small.  The result is idleness and "hoodlumism."  Habitually armed to the teeth, the young scapegrace of this class lives, while yet in his teens, by the vices of cities, and by the folly or weakness of unwarlike citizens and inexperienced immigrants.  In the words of a veteran Californian (Mr. Williams, in "Scribner's Monthly," July, 1875), the hoodlum "may be somewhat vaguely defined as a ruffian in embryo.  Young in years, he is venerable in sin.  He knows all the vices by heart.  He drinks, gambles, steals, runs after lewd women, sets buildings on fire, rifles the pockets of inebriated citizens going home in the small hours, parades the streets at night, singing obscene songs, uttering horrid oaths, and striking terror to the heart of the timid generally.  Occasionally he varies the programme of his evil-doings by perpetrating a highway robbery, blowing open <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:a safe, or braining an incautious critic of his conduct."  Brief, he is what our street Arabs, our <HI REND="italics">gamins</HI>
094.sgm:, our <HI REND="italics">Gassenbuben</HI>
094.sgm: would be, their wits sharpened by a common-school education, their insolence heightened by the twaddle of <HI REND="italics">e&acute;galite&acute;</HI>
094.sgm:, and their capacities for offence aided by the matter-of-course carriage and use of deadly weapons.  To meet this evil, two "hoodlum ordinances" were adopted in 1875 by the principal Californian municipalities, the one making it a misdemeanour "for minors to congregate on the public streets after eight o'clock at night," the other prohibiting to all persons the carrying of concealed weapons without a special magisterial permit.  This last order is much objected to in many respectable quarters, and has not, we believe, been adopted in Sacramento, the political capital of the State.  The lawless classes, it is alleged, do not observe its provisions, while they are rendered bolder by the knowledge that the average good citizen is now defenceless in his goings.  It may as well be observed, in passing, that the police hardly enter into the considerations of either party, which is, perhaps, the least harsh thing that can well be said of these functionaries.  As a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:consequence, "the dulcet note of the derringer" is to the San Franciscan what the bells of Bow are to the Cockney.  In August, 1875, the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
094.sgm: was able to refer, in a modest way, to the "two or three shooting encounters per week" which enlivened its columns; while in December of the same year things looked so dark that the correspondent of <HI REND="italics">The Record-Union</HI>
094.sgm:<P>There is a hopeful side to all this, as there is to that darkest hour which precedes the morning.  There is a point at which vaulting scoundrelism overleaps itself, and falls on the other side.  Reputable, peaceable Californians are so busily engaged in the dollar trade--to them not so much the chief as the only end for which man was created--that nothing less than a little municipal pandemonium will distract their attention from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>THEIR WOMEN.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Her figure.--Somewhat small and darling-like.<LB>Her face?--Well, singularly colourless.<LB>Attaining to the ends of prettiness,<LB>And somewhat more--suppose enough of soul.</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">">Red Cotton Night-cap Country</HI>
094.sgm:, ROBERT BROWNING.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>It s a wonderful subduer, this need of love--this hunger of the heart--as peremptory as that other hunger by which nature forces us to submit to her yoke and change the face of the world.</HI>
094.sgm:<P>-- <HI REND="italics">The Mill on the Floss</HI>
094.sgm:, GEORGE ELIOT.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Wer nicht liebt Wein, Weib, und Gesang,<LB>Der bleibt ein Narr sein Leben lang.<LB></HI>
094.sgm: --MARTIN LUTHER.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Ou&grave; est elle alle&acute;e demeurer?--Elle ne l'a pas dit.<LB> Quelle chose sombre de ne pas savoir l'adresse de son a&circ;me!</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">">Les Mise&acute;rables</HI>
094.sgm:, HUGO.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Warum muss sich die Liebe nach dem Gegenstand sehnen nur der Hass nicht?<LB></HI>
094.sgm: -- <HI REND="italics">Levana</HI>
094.sgm:, JEAN PAUL RICHTER.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Not for this <LB>Was common clay ta'en from the common earth,<LB>Moulded by God, and temper'd with the tears<LB>Of angels to the perfect shape of man.</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Prologue to <HI REND="italics">The Palace of Art</HI>
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094.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Ob's ein Teufel oder Engel,<LB>Weiss ich nicht.  Genau bei Weibern<LB>Weiss man niemals, wo der Engel,<LB>Aufho&die;rt und der Teufel anfa&die;ngt.<LB></HI>
094.sgm: -- <HI REND="italics">Atta Troll</HI>
094.sgm:, HEINE.<LB>     THE first question to be asked about any living thing is the physiological question, "How is it organised?--how are the muscles, nerves, the life-machinery of it arranged?--and how does this machinery work?"  The soul is the crown of life, but the body is the head that wears the crown; and greater mistakes have, on the whole, been made in the theological world than that by which orthodox Samoyedes pronounce soul and stomach to be identical.  Dyspepsia should have a place among the cardinal sins.<LB>     There has been a tendency in modern civilisation to over-develop the nerve at the expense of the muscle--a thing almost as fatal to the happiness and efficiency of our race as the complementary error of developing brawn at the expense of brain.  Mankind tend to swing through centuries from falsehood of extreme to falsehood of extreme--the arc of oscillation, however, as, we dare to think, becoming constantly less and less.  It is not so fashionable as it once was to view the flesh as the root of all evil--something <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:radically bad, desperately wicked, an abomination to its Creator, something that must consequently be mortified and kept out of His sight, so as to obliterate--kindly, if it might be--all trace of a mistake committed on "the sixth day."  The only puzzle was to know, as a robust Latin Father has noticed, how the fleshless devil had managed to sin.<LB>     The crimes committed against the body at present are not so much ascetic as modish, and as women are most affected and led by fashion, they suffer most.  It is not damp cells, but hot ball-rooms that are to be feared; not hair shirts, but steel corsets; not weary pilgrimages and the bread of affliction and the water of affliction, but excessive delicacy in limb and palate.  Anglo-American women are said to be weakening from these causes faster and more generally than their sisters in Europe.  We think the balance of American medical authority inclines to this view.  But California is too new, the race there is too lately and too largely mixed with European blood, to furnish much support to any such theory.  Besides, the sunny climate along the Pacific makes out-door life so pleasant that it cannot well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:encourage that hot-house life which seems to be at the bottom of so many feminine ailments in New England.  Yet it is affirmed that the sickly circle is widening and worsening.  The last United States census, that for 1870, reports that "No one can be familiar with life in the Eastern and Middle States generally, and in the Western cities, and not be aware that children are not born to American parents as they were in the early days of the country.  Luxury, fashion, and the vice of `boarding,' combine to limit the increase of families to a degree that in some sections has threatened the perpetuation of our native stock.  This tendency is not one that requires to be brought out by statistical comparison.  It is patent, palpable, and needs no proof."<LB>     This is a delicate branch of investigation, and we must be allowed to drop it here.  Indeed, it may be rather a dangerous thing to venture on even a surface criticism of the sensitive sex in the Great Republic.<LB>     De Tocqueville was able to assert with great exactness that in his day, just as it was characteristic of European writers to sprinkle their pages either with what has been called "polite banter," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:or with satire concerning women, so the absence of this levity or malice, and the presence of an awful reverence, was characteristic of the sons of the Puritans.  As poor M. Crevel would have said, "putting himself into position," there was nothing of the Regency, nothing Louis XV., nothing Abbe&acute; Dubois or Mare&acute;chal de Richelieu about them, <HI REND="italics">sacrebleu</HI>
094.sgm:!  De Tocqueville, if we can trust to our memory, went on in his usual able fashion to show how, from the very essence and conditions <HI REND="italics">de la de&acute;mocratie en Ame&acute;rique</HI>
094.sgm:, this fact could not have been otherwise than it was.  But alas! though the democracy still remains with all its conditions, its bashful literary reserve has disappeared, like the snows of last year, like the "barty" of Herr Breitmann.  Blasphemy against the sacred sex has become shockingly common among the authors beyond the Atlantic, and we have not only to deplore their conduct in this respect, but also their fate.  Whom the gods wish to destroy by inches, they bring down the lady writers on him.  The Athena Promachos, sternly but not unbeautifully blue as to her stockings and her eyes (&ggr;&lgr;&agr;&ugr;&kgr;&ohgr;&pgr;&igr;&sfgr; &mgr;&egr;&ngr;&, &agr;&lgr;&lgr;&agr; &kgr;&ogr;&sgr;&mgr;&egr;&igr; &kgr;&agr;&igr; &tgr;&ogr;&ugr;&tgr;&ogr; &eegr; &kgr;&ogr;&rgr;&ugr;&sfgr;), shakes a dreadful dart in America, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:potent for good or for evil.  The pen is no longer of a sex there--nor anywhere.  The generation that has stood by the open graves of the author of the "Drama of Exile," and "Aurora Leigh," and the author of "La Petite Fadette," and "La Mare au Diable," must know that womanliness and genius can run together into lives entirely great as well as entirely amiable.  Hemisphere joins hemisphere; literature, that saw in part, begins to see the complement of the angles at which alone it once viewed life.  The anatomy of woman by man reaches almost its last conceivable word in Balzac and Thackeray; the anatomy of man by woman begins, properly speaking, with George Sand and George Eliot: two sides of a science, not hostile but complementary, in which France and England lead.  But English nature comes to American women from their ancestors; and events which belong to history have so thrown them into sympathy with France, that they have assimilated a Gallic quickness and pliancy of mind.  This sympathy has taken curious shape in the familiar jest--an emotion too deep for seriousness, as there are sorrows too deep for tears--"Every good American will go to Paris when he (or she) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:dies."  All the world knows that every man has two countries--his own and France; but it has been reserved for regenerated citizens of the Great Republic to have two heavens.<LB>     To return to worldly matters.  The saddest thing we have to say about the Pilgrim Daughters of California is that they are too few.  In the whole white population of this State, sixteen years old and upwards, the number of men is something more than double the number of women; and this proportion is not likely to be much bettered while the majority of immigrants continues as at present to be made up of single men.  The average masculine age for marriage in Californi ais not, we venture, without statistics, to say much below forty; the average feminine age much above seventeen.  One man in every two can never hope to marry.  This situation is not a bright one, either on the side of mind or matter, on the side of the individual, the side of the family, the side of the church, or the side of the State.  Was it not the acute Talleyrand who held that "the father of a family is capable of everything?"  And is it not true in a very different sense that he to whom the family is forbidden is capable of anything?  His <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:is the life of the Thebiade without its inspiration, the life of the convent without its restraints.  In no real sense can he be said to have a home.  His place is outside the golden domestic doors, in the gloomy vestibule of lost footsteps.  Though his morals should not suffer his manners would.  "A king's face," they used to say along the Scotch border, "gives grace;" but the right grace in any meaning of the word comes nowhere now but from a queen's face, in the sense that every true woman-child is born a princess, and fit to become a queen.  Of her is the only eternal aristocracy; touches of delicacy, elegance, nobility, would remain with her even should man begin to develop the claws of the Yahoo.  And it is this truth older than the Vedas, that Michelet translates by his, " <HI REND="italics">Il n'y a pas de peuple chez elles</HI>
094.sgm:."  No woman is a boor till she is unwomaned.  Caught young no woman is a Philistine.<LB>     One maiden to two swains!  It has been not unwisely written in our Latin grammars, " <HI REND="italics">Sine Cerere et Baccho friget Venus</HI>
094.sgm:," or in the vulgar tongue, "Love flies out at the window, when want comes in at the door;" but what is the plenty without the love?  What are all the corn and wine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:in the universe worth, when Aphrodite has not a hand in the heap and an arm round the wine-skin?  Without the mistress of the Charites, the grace of the fashion of the world perisheth; the world ceases to go round.  Labour and pleasure alike lose their motive to all men.  None is unaffected, not even the calm philosopher, who, though he may know the world to be a merely passing illusive show, likes to make-believe-happy as well as he can, and as well as the rest of us.  Even Socrates loved love through much tribulation; and one thing he did <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
094.sgm: teach Plato was to bottle that moonshine known as Platonic love.  Even "large-brow'd Verulam," risked his brows and "gave hostages to fortune," and refused to obey that advice of the "wise men," as to when one should marry: "A young man not yet, and elder man not at all."  Even sweet, grave Mr. Emerson commands us with a recklessness which can be qualified as nothing less than appalling, to-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Give all to love;<LB>Obey thy heart;<LB>Friends, kindred, days,<LB>Estate, good-fame,<LB>Plans, credit, and the Muse--<LB>Nothing refuse.</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Even in the fateful gray eyes, beneath the shaggy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:brows of immortal Teufelsdro&die;ckh, there burns an almost unhallowed light, as he declares his passion for the "blooming warm Earth-angel, much more enchanting than your mere white Heaven-angels of women, in whose placid veins circulates too little naphtha-fire."  Even the silver trumpet of Mr. Ruskin forgets its stern alarums and bids us court an amorous looking-glass; for "the soul's armour is never well set to the heart unless a woman's hand has braced it; and it is only when she braces it loosely that the honour of manhood fails."  Even Mr. Max Mu&die;ller, Admirable Crichton of pundits, looks up from his Vedas to ask thoughtfully, in the words of a Hindoo poet, "Say, is the abode of the lotus-eyed god sweeter than a dream on the shoulders of the beloved?"  And, <HI REND="italics">O dulcissimus et lucidissimus!</HI>
094.sgm: Mr. Matthew Arnold even, in a sober theological work on "Saint Paul and Protestantism," finds place to enlarge with tender vivacity on the advantages of "the natural bent" that makes for "being in love"--of the advantages of the <HI REND="italics">hominum divumque voluptas, alma Venus</HI>
094.sgm: --the advantages of "this attractive aspect of the <HI REND="italics">not ourselves</HI>
094.sgm:," towards which, as we are told by someone in another theological work, there is "a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>It is even so.  And it is not to the Semite alone that the myrrh and the pomegranate and the pleasant fruits are nothing without the Shulamite.  The Indo-European race (the authorities of the University of Oxford included) has a knack of drifting sooner or later into that particular garden which Maud frequents, and there singing its "Come into the garden" with astonishing fulness of throat, even in our foggy northern climates.  Our race indignantly denies that "the household is," as Balzac has made one of his most infamous characters say, "the tomb of glory;" it believes, on the contrary, that household life is the condition and complement of glory--at least of any glory which brings happiness.  Our scoffer within our gates may indeed deny it, but not with a clear voice; he stutters painfully, he stumbles hoarsely--the blood of Swift chokes him!</P>
094.sgm:<P>And in California?  Ah! the gold of the Sacramento, the silver of the Nevada make no music when the hearth is loveless and silent, and the wife's place empty.  The lonely soul goes out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:to seek her, like the chariots of Amminadib.  "Barkis is willin'," but Peggotty cannot be found.  Alas for thee, our brother Barkis! how often in the days that are gone by hast thou poured thy woes into our ear at night, by the camp-fire, till even the cold pines shivered in their silver mail, and the very catamount, crouching to his bough, purred softly for his mate!  Oh Barkis! better anything than this.  It is indeed a brutal word, that thrice-battered verse of De Musset, "Love! what matters the object? drink! what matters the bottle, so long as it makes one drunk?" <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Aimer est le grand point, qu'importe la mai&circ;tresse?<LB>Qu'importe le flacon, pourvu qu'on ait l'ivresse?</HI>
094.sgm:<P>We repeat, it is a brutal word (and a justification of "Elle et Lui"), but there is a still more brutal word, and it is "die of thirst."  Sin and sorrow lie that way.  Thousands have bruised their heels in love affairs, in ill-assorted marriages; the comedians of the world live by these things; but tens of thousands have bruised their heads in a lonely living death--and this is where the real tragedies begin.  It was a pity the fates hindered Goethe of Fredericka, or of Lili, or of the Frau von Stein; but better even the vulgar Christiane Vulpius at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>On the other side, this misproportion of sex is quite as hurtful to the woman as to the man.  Spoke Friar John: "I am no clerk, more's the pity! but I find in my breviary that in the Revelation it was accounted a great wonder to see in heaven a woman with the moon under her feet; because she (as Bigot has expounded the thing to me) was not as other women are, who, all on the contrary, have the moon in their heads, and consequently the brain always moon-struck."  Now, the Mai&circ;tre Guillaume Bigot who imposed this abominable interpretation on the child-like faith of Friar John, was probably very directly referred to when Calvin wrote that "the study of the Apocalypse either finds a man mad, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:leaves him so," and his interpretation is not worth more than the kindred stuff which every day amazes historians and edifies old ladies of millenarian tendencies; but if anything ought to get the moon <HI REND="italics">en teste</HI>
094.sgm: of a woman, it is surely her position in California.  She has to defend herself as it were against two moons, as the population is divided.  There is no place left for the pagan sneer, " <HI REND="italics">Casta est quam nemo rogavit</HI>
094.sgm:;" the sentence, if written at all, must take the form of a eulogium--" <HI REND="italics">Casta est quam duo rogaverunt</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Much sought for, much worshipped, our heroine tends to acquire certain unusual habits of self-assertion, and even of tyranny.  The gray mare becomes not only the better horse, but a white elephant.  Here, in very truth, What woman wills, God wills.  Now, it is grand, of course, to have a giant's strength, but it is somewhat cruel to use it like a giant.  The Pacific breezes give an Amazonian dash to the daughters of the Sierra; and the Spanish traditions of the soil seem to involve or suggest such a fatal solution of love misunderstandings as was sought by the Senorita Claudia Gero&acute;nima, to the horror and heartfelt grief of kindly Sancho Panza.  The western Aphrodite trusts no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:longer to the kestos alone--she handles the thunderbolt as well.  We remember at least half-a-dozen cases in which, weapon in hand, she appealed to the arbitrament of "villainous saltpetre," and marvellously quickened or dismissed for ever a tardy or a false lover.  Our Californians in general consider themselves to be "The Coming Race," and certainly their fair <HI REND="italics">gy-ei</HI>
094.sgm: give, at not infrequent intervals, such exhibitions of feminine ability in the use of the local conductors of <HI REND="italics">vril</HI>
094.sgm:, as might justify this opinion, and as should at any rate make the Don-Juanesque Tish look well to his ways when among them.  May we suggest to Mr. Tennyson the propriety of issuing a special edition of "The Letters," adapted to the latitude of San Francisco, something as follows:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I turn'd and humm'd a bitter song<LB>That mock'd the wholesome human heart,<LB>And then we met in wrath and wrong,<LB>We met, but only meant to part.<LB>Full cold her greeting was and dry;<LB>I faintly smil'd, then smil'd no more,<LB>Because I saw with half an eye<LB>She wore a Colt of "navy bore"<LB>And dallied softly with the lock.<LB>Then, slow, with thumb and lip comprest,<LB>With half a sigh she drew the cock,<LB>And drew a bead upon my vest.</HI>
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094.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">"Heigh ho! well, there, sir, there! your rings<LB>And gifts lie, ready when you please."<LB>As father looks on that son's things<LB>Who died of plague, I look'd on these.<LB>"While if you wish to send," she said,<LB>"A message by the public wire,<LB>To any friend to say you're dead,<LB>I'll see it done when you--expire."<LB>She sobb'd; her words had heat and force,<LB>She shook my breast with vague alarms--<LB>Like torrents from a mountain source<LB>We rush'd into each other's arms.<LB>We parted: sweetly smiling now,<LB>She wav'd her Colt in fond adieu,<LB>Low breezes fann'd my clammy brow,<LB>As homeward by the church I drew.<LB>The graves grinn'd question: "Orange or white?<LB>The bride-flowers or the immortelles?"<LB>The spire lean'd listening through the night--<LB>I gasp'd, "I choose the marriage-bells!"</HI>
094.sgm:<P>The dark races of woman have a characteristic emotional swiftness and heat, but for a steady feminine audacity that is sweet-eyed, smooth like a dove, but at heart always ready-coiled serpent-wise for victory, and deadly even in defeat, one must go back to the heroines of the Vo&die;lsunga Saga or follow the daughters of our fair-haired race where circumstances tend to develop <HI REND="italics">la belle sauvage</HI>
094.sgm: in their blood.  In any case similar to that caricatured above, the man is terribly at a disadvantage.  The pistol makes Delilah as tall as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:Samson.  Then, the modern Samson can hardly, as a man of honour, be conceived of as defending himself with firearms against a woman; and, secondly, the American Delilah will under no circumstances be punished for betraying her lover into the hands of that big black knave of a Philistine, death.  Mark Twain and Mr. Dudley Warner are only stating a simple fact when they assert in "The Gilded Age," that "the woman who lays her hand on a man, without any exception whatever, is always acquitted by the jury;" and the most famous of all the modern trials of California, and one upon which, we believe, Mr. Clemens drew largely for the plot of the novel above mentioned, is that of Laura D. Fair.  This person shot a famous lawyer dead, in open day, on board a Sacramento river-steamer, as he sat by the side of his wife and children.  There was no defence, and nothing of what would be considered in Europe as extenuating circumstances.  A certain intimacy had existed between the assassin and her victim; it being known on the one side that the woman was a mere devotee of Our Lady of Loretto, and on the other side that the man was married.  He returned to his duty and his wife--and his mistress shot him.  The whole case.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:And the verdict--the Californian jury, as every one knew it would do, disagreed, and the prisoner was discharged.  She may be seen to-day at any <HI REND="italics">matine&acute;e</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Now, there is a something far from unmanly or repulsive in that French gallantry which, in judging a murderess, almost invariably associates the verdict with "extenuating circumstances;" and the Californian spirit is very Gallic in at least this respect; but for the sake of the sex itself a limit should be drawn somewhere--it is inconvenient for example to have one's dress soiled with one's husband's brains.  Women should indeed be judged mercifully.  The wicked woman is only a kind of thorn, and thorns are but buds rendered abortive by a sudden stoppage of the sap.  Still, thorns are after all thorns, and must not be handled exactly as if they were blossoms, even where blossoms are as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>To tell the whole truth, there is, however, something even more obnoxious than the thorn--a kind of woman even more hurtful than the utterly passionate and openly depraved.  It is she who keeps what is mysteriously called a "respectable" place in Californian society, who takes advantage of the fewness of her sex and the laxness of law to glide from divorce court to divorce court, sucking husband after husband dry by her extravagance, then throwing him aside, and stepping upon his body as upon swines' husks to gain a higher place.  There is nothing coarse, nothing depraved about her.  She is as incapable of violence and hatred as of love.  She has not the virtues even of passion: " <HI REND="italics">C'est une cre&acute;ature vie&grave;rge de toute vertu</HI>
094.sgm:."  She is not a thorn; she is only a Venus's fly-trap.  She has as much heart as a plant, as much gluttony as an animal.  She is Vale&acute;rie Marneffe, she is Vivien, she is Faustine, all the fulvid wild-beast beauty washed out of the satin skin, all the red blood turned ichor--something to chill the veins of an octopus.  Manon Lescaut would be too faithful for this ro&circ;le, and Becky Sharp would be too ingenuous.  It would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>One turns away with delight from this type of lamia to talk of the genuine Californian girl.  She is perfect, this young girl, perfect to a fault or two.  Like the best of us, not so good as to be in danger of premature death, but good for all that.  With no one is there more freedom, more self-possession in every sense; with no one more self-respect, with no one more capacity to enforce respect.  Super-abundance of sun and outdoor life somewhat strengthen and enlarge the physique without affecting the typical mental decision and quickness of the Anglo-American woman.  She is generally very fair to see, and when at its best her beauty and brightness are far from being wholly of the superficies.  She is, however, above all, devoted to the culture of such qualities as show well at the surface.  Why should she not be so, when she finds them "pay" best?  She is Athena more than Minerva, her mind takes the Greek rather than the Latin form.  There is nothing clumsy about it.  She is Lady Mary Wortley Montague very much, and Hannah More very little.</P>
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094.sgm:<P>Some of the ladies of the Golden State are devout, but they are inclined to mix an unusual coquetry in the singing of those rather sensational hymns just now much in favour in American churches and chapels.  To be sure of this, one has but to watch them a little.  In the choir, the stray ringlets almost brush the silky moustaches as the two lean over the same book.  Be it said very reverently, but very deliberately and decidedly, "Jesus, lover of my soul," is as a rule rendered with the general action and effect of " <HI REND="italics"> Robert, toi que j' aime</HI>
094.sgm:."  Hymn after hymn!  How the notes whirl from the tall pipes!  How the white keys dance and the buffeted stops stumble madly!  "Sweeping through the gate of the New Jer-u-sa-lem!"  How the very atmosphere pulses, how the singers thrill, how the white lace gives and quivers like good canvas in a gale!  The hearer, the on-looker, is despite himself carried, rapt away in vision apocalyptic--"Sweeping through the gates!"  And lo, the gates are opened; lo, the singers enter, their beautiful ruby lips shaped aright, as it were by pronouncing "besom"--there is the low bow of the polite Peter--the swish of the costly robes as the fair saints "sweep" in--the swift <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Do not mistake.  It is not we who have any fault to find with a little vivacity and coquetry.  We, O fair ones, have but one lament, that is that there are so few of you--that there are so many of our brothers, to whom is refused Steele's "liberal education," to whom is denied all knowledge of that "heaven-drawing, eternal womankindliness," to which Goethe owed so much, and which he unfortunately so much abused.  The lonely lords of Californian creation are deprived of a means of grace, and that in a double sense--for the "eternal womanly" can drive as well as draw--</P>
094.sgm:<P>A Wyf is Goddes gifte verrayly.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Peraventure she may be your purgatorie;<LB>She may be Goddes mene and Goddes whippe;<LB>That shal your soule up into heven skippe<LB>Swifter than doth an arow of a bow.</HI>
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094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>THEIR MEN.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Thou shalt not see a fierce people, a people of a deeper speech than thou canst perceive; of a stammering tongue, that thou canst not understand.-- <HI REND="italics">Isaiah</HI>
094.sgm:<P>The punishment of one financial bankrupt would do much to clear the commercial atmosphere.  One thing certain, we should have fewer failures, for people would have to be more cautious.  But however this may be, the contrast between the way in which justice is administered in this country and in England is too broad and humiliating.  We have presumably no aristocracy, but then there is for all that a more slavish deference paid to rich men than anywhere else in the world.  We have gotten to such a pass in San Francisco, that a millionnaire cannot be punished, no matter what he may do.  Acts that would send inferior men to the State Prison, are passed over as unworthy of notice, when committed by persons who are supposed to have a strong bank account.--Leading Article, <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Evening Bulletin</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Above all things good policy is to be used, that the treasures and moneys in a state be not gathered into few hands.  For, otherwise, a state may have a great stock, and yet starve.  And money is like muck, not good except it be spread.  This is done chiefly by suppressing, or, at the least, keeping a strait hand upon the devouring trades of usury, ingrossing, great pasturages, and the like.-- <HI REND="italics">Of Seditions and Troubles</HI>
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094.sgm:<P>Then, too, in spite of all that is said about the absorbing and brutalising influence of our passionate material progress, it seems to me indisputable that this progress is likely, though not certain, to lead in the end to an apparition of intellectual life, and that man, after he has made himself perfectly comfortable, and has now to determine what to do with himself next, may begin to remember that he has a mind, and that the mind may be made the source of great pleasure.-- <HI REND="italics">The Function of Criticism</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE typical Californian is supremely a man of business, polite, eager, indefatigable in work, restless, speculative, and differing from a noble lecturer of the present day, in the fact that he <HI REND="italics">does</HI>
094.sgm: believe "in the gospel of getting on," and that quickly.  The word "patience" does not occur in the bright lexicon either of his youth or of his old age: to him <HI REND="italics">La patience est la vertu des a&circ;nes</HI>
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094.sgm:<P>Californian men seem to be happy among themselves, and to be carried over reverses of all sorts by a kind of mental dash, something between steady cheerfulness and fitful excitement, a perpetual ever-present something which may be called simmering or sub-excitement.  The "contagious weariness" which Mr. Nadal, the latest American critic of England, declares he can catch in the tones alike of London men of fashion and of the ague-tormented, saleratus-fed "agricultural population along the water-courses of Illinois and Missouri"--this is not to be found among these hearty sunburnt men exalted with corn and wine.  These are people that Fielding would have understood.  They are far from exemplary in all respects.  "That complete banishment of profanity from the conversation of men of fashion," which it is so refreshing to be able to say (on Mr. Nadal's authority), now obtains in England, has no parallel among the leaders of the world in the Golden State.  It is the same with regard to all manner of euphemism.  A spade is still very emphatically named a spade in "the land where the sun goes down;" and though people may have little to say, they say it shortly, sharply, brightly.  This last is on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:the whole not to be regretted by those who believe that it is an unpardonable sin, the sin of dulness, the sin against <HI REND="italics">esprit</HI>
094.sgm:; by those who believe that the world is sick and weary enough already, and that he who bores the least of God's creatures should be cast into the deep sea with the millstone of his own wits hanged about his neck.  We have heard that "the treasure" is sometimes hid in an earthen vessel, but ( <HI REND="italics">pace</HI>
094.sgm: Diogenes) are unaware of any scripture to support the opinion that heavenly oracles have ever manifested themselves through the mouth of a wooden tub.  If it were not for the wild touch of race, of originality, which distinguishes the manner of Californian conversation, its matter must assassinate a foreigner.  The pedal of provinciality is always down, and the drone of it would be unbearable but for an occasional rattling fugue of novel and often witty idiom.  The want of a social academy, remoteness from some generally respected centre of correct taste, from centres of literature and art, tends to establish the tyranny of the shop.  The dollar jingles, the bill rustles, with every movement of the tongue; people speak as if they chewed wheat and mouthed nuggets.  The books, the pictures, the statesmanship of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:great world, fade into insignificance before the question of how a new pump is going to work in the Hi-You-Bubble-Jock Mine, or whether San Muerto-Quebrado will issue bonds to build a new county-court house, a smart shower having washed away the former edifice.  Man is like a certain kind of hollow india-rubber doll: if you compress him at one point he will bulge out at another; but you cannot have the bulge without the corresponding compression; you cannot have the bulge all round.  If social forces unite in developing the talent for making money, that talent will be developed to an extraordinary extent.  It is unjust to demand and silly to expect that under such circumstances there should be also a development of talent in the direction of morals and manners, of conversation, of art, or of science.  The Californians prefer to study their <HI REND="italics">belles lettres</HI>
094.sgm:<P>For it is a distinction.  It was truer of no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Silver and gold are said by Liebig to perform the same functions in the State as the "round discs" called blood-corpuscles perform in the body.  It is an easy synecdoche to read "blood" instead of "blood-corpuscles."  Money is the blood of society, and the blood is the life.  No one dreams of denying this.  It is still to be added, however, that the blood may be the death--has often been this.  Without objecting to blood one may deprecate apoplexy.  Spain had a fit of it after swallowing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:the Mexican mines.  Rome died of it.  Everybody knows someone in private life who is purple in the face with it.  We may have no fault to find with blood, and may yet dislike to see the mythical Norse custom revived of drinking it from skulls, either sucked out of the drinker's own brains, or from the skulls of his fellow men trodden down in unrighteous, because unnecessary, battle.  There is no ground to doubt that the poor shall be always with us; that while the world lasts the great mass of men will never be fit for anything better than beasts of burden for the few; yet it may be possible that some day some society for the prevention of cruelty will see to it that these animals of burden are not abused more than is absolutely necessary--that they are not treated habitually worse than those beasts in the desert, whose blood is drunk by their masters only when the water-bottles give out.  To get rid of an allegory which begins to oppress us: there is just now in the Californian body social too great a rush of blood to the head, and the extremities are frost-bitten--a natural result, by-the-bye, of turning the body upside down and making believe that such distinctions as head and lesser members no longer exist in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"Liberty, equality, fraternity!" the bright and beautiful theory! and as thick with fallacies as a sunbeam with motes.  Brother of low degree, let us lift your ear-flap and whisper this: Gnash our tusks as we may, the strongest creatures are the strongest, and will somehow or other show themselves so at our expense.  Better then let them string round the neck such pearls of social and political distinction as may possibly bribe them to use their strength for our advantage than that we should trample these pearls under our feet, till even the vilest snout amongst us has had his sniff <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Lazarus will hear of no "artificial distinctions of rank," will call no man master; wriggling himself into an almost erect posture he coughs the dust from his throat and declares his equality with all the world.  Dives nods, steps on him, and with a good-humoured smile ascends to his simple golden Republican throne.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Land grabs," "mining grabs," the manipulation of gangs of Chinese labourers, are enabling a few persons "to fill themselves with gold as a sponge fills itself with water"--a phrase from M. Hugo which, taken literally, would indicate a sad mistake on the part of Dives if the gospel narrative is to be depended upon to its very close.</P>
094.sgm:<P>It is a favourite boast of this kind of person that he is a self-made man;" he is continually repeating this; it seems to him what the syllable "om" is to a Brahmin--and at the word a shudder of awful reverence, a veritable doelololuovia;, thrills his admirers.  Strangely enough, we have never been so impressed.  So much depends on one's definition of a man; so little on <HI REND="italics">how</HI>
094.sgm: the man has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:made himself, so much on <HI REND="italics">what</HI>
094.sgm:<P>To leave manners for morals.  In the matter of such virtues as have a public aspect and so come under everyone's observation, the Californians take a creditable position.  Adopting the convenient divisions of Mr. Lecky, we may first say that they have developed "industrial veracity" to a considerable extent.  The laws of the State, says Mr. Hittell, "allow no imprisonment for debt, except in cases of fraud, which it is almost impossible to prove."  Again: "Such laws may prevent much oppression of poor people, but they also protect and encourage much rascality."  Now, it is obvious that under such conditions as these, in a country where business is to a great extent based on credit, that no business at all could be done were there not at the heart of society a good sound core of veracity, and of faith in the veracity of one's neighbours.  Gigantic frauds are indeed constantly heard of here as elsewhere, but it is well to be on one's guard as to the inference one draws from these or from a comparison of modern with old-fashioned trade morality in general.  Sir Henry Maine, in his chapter on "Contracts," lays <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>As to "political veracity," it has acquired west of the Sierra Nevada the dimensions of a Big Tree, a moral <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
094.sgm:, with some of the properties of the upas.  The man who "runs for office" will find it overshadowing, not only himself, but his children, his wife, his mother, his wife's relations and his own to the third or fourth generation back.  His political opponents will tell "the whole truth" about him, not alone what they know, but what they can surmise.  Anonymous and open assailants will be protected by law in publishing "in good faith" such tittle-tattle of the slums and stews, such back-stairs gossip, as would ruin elsewhere not the man against whom, but the man or the cause by or for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:whom they were collected and used as a weapon.  An election is a garden-party with a whole country dancing under the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
094.sgm:<P>And as to "philosophical veracity," it will no doubt flourish in the future, but it must be said that the philosophy to be veracious about has not yet found its way westward over the Rocky Mountains.  In brief, touching veracity on subjects with which he is acquainted, the word of a Californian is as good as that of the average European; we are all more or less liable to the seductions of the mythopoeic faculty.  We know what crusty M. Graindorge says--forgetting, unfortunately, to tell us which "time" it is with him as he speaks: "Good men in Paris lie ten times a day, good women twenty times a day, fashionable men a hundred times a day, and no man has ever been able to calculate how often a day fashionable women lie."</P>
094.sgm:<P>We observe in <HI REND="italics">The San Francisco Bulletin</HI>
094.sgm:, June 4th, 1875, a notice that "Private Dalzell is going to lecture on `The Two American Institutions--Lying and Stealing.'"  We frankly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Dishonesty! that calls to mind the Sons of Belial on California Street, the "stock-gamblers," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:the "bulls" and "bears" of San Francisco mining speculation.  These ferocious creatures are the cause efficient of terrible rents both in fortunes and in reputations.  Last year the public press thundered with accusations of perfidy, criminations and recriminations, in the form of letters, between two clergymen (one of them a professor in a theological college), about some little "stock-dabbling" ventures they had made in common.  The wisest and best lose their senses as well as their money, stunned by the clash of tusk and horn where the bulls and bears are gathered together.  This arena is strewn with the shreds of petticoats and geneva gowns.  It is no place for the good and pure and unsophisticated.  Few such, venturing down into this Ephesus to fight "after the manner of men," are allowed to escape to tell of it.  The older Ephesus, now that one mentions it, seems to have been just such another place, a place to pick up thorns in the flesh, a place not unconnected with silver-mining, and addicted to the worship of a rather peculiar Diana.  There, too, sat the famous "Robber Council," probably the Lesser Asiatic name for "board of brokers."  To the pure all things are pure, or may be, except a Western <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:stockboard.  Anywhere over the doors of California Street any good mental eye may read the inscription that Tubal-cain wrote over his brazen city, " <HI REND="italics">De&acute;fense a&grave; Dieu d'entrer</HI>
094.sgm:!"--No admission for God!  This is the new tabernacle in the wilderness; here is the latter-day Holy of Holies; behind this veil is ever hidden a smoky figure--not of the Most High.  Here are deathly mysteries of ritual and language: "Buyer short," "seller thirty," "cinch," "squeal," "rings," "corners," "freeze-outs"--of such are not the kingdom of heaven.  Passovers, between two suns, occur here oftener than once a year.  Keep out of the way.  The brokers' tabernacle and its Levites have a way of mistaking anybody for a paschal lamb.  Its members are "a peculiar people"--"peculiar" generally in the sense in which this word has been applied to That Heathen Chinee, and not unfrequently "peculiar" in another sense.  Wherever the carcase of financial speculation lies there will the birds of the Jewry, the eagles of the Ghetto be gathered together, as their great country-man has written:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Bending forward, bending nearer,<LB>With long beaks like human noses.</HI>
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094.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Ah, where have I seen such noses?<LB>Where already! in what street of--<LB>Hamburg was it? or of Frankfort?<LB>Mournful dawns the reminiscence!</HI>
094.sgm:<P>But really, as between Hebrew and Gentile, the eloquence of facts is with Saint Paul in deprecating all jealousy and contempt or pride of race one way or the other: "there is no difference."  Somebody has said that "all white people behave much the same in a room;" it is certain that they become undistinguishable on 'Change.  Shylock recites the Athanasian Creed as often as his bond; Antonio may be a pillar of the synagogue.  Heredity is, it must be said, a more treacherous guide to the meaning of a man than etymology is to the meaning of a word.  "Substance" and "understanding," interpreted etymologically, signify the same thing, practically, two things as different as can well be imagined.  Richard Cromwell is supposed to have been ethnologically very closely related to Oliver Cromwell, but all the forces of the universe and of Mr. Francis Galton cannot discover one fibre of mind common to the two men.  Viewed in the mass the inhabitants of California have to a surprising extent a peculiar and homogeneous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:character, though they are made up of all races, and though, to be comprehended perfectly by all, their laws should be promulgated, as were the decrees of the Persian kings, in the leading Aryan, Semitic, and Turanian languages.  Men are like pendulums, and set side by side they have a vulgar fraternal tendency to time their oscillations by each other and fall into an exact common rhythm.  There is a spirit now abroad, a kind of Charles the Fifth, which amuses its declining years by trying to make all its clocks strike at the same moment.  Some practical philosophers have hopes to see in the near future a very pretty monotony--a kind of phalansterial premature heaven, where every one shall have his hair cut and oiled to pattern, and shall employ his palm branch as a broom or other useful implement of industry during so many hours a day, the rest of the time being devoted to sitting in rows on plain benches of equal height, singing the praises of the new system in common metre.  It would be possible, but for one thing.  Somewhere outside this little cosmic monastery where Charles the Fifth is so busy, there swings another pendulum; and its vast beats affect every now and then some little dusty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>We have spoken above of the Athanasian Creed and the synagogue.  We used the terms for convenience, but without much local propriety.  Copies of both these things are to be found in California, and in excellent preservation, not the least in danger of being worn-out by use.  San Francisco resembles the Scriptural Athens in having many temples and in being the city of "The Unknown God;" it differs from Athens in the fact that it does not worship him, whether "ignorantly" or otherwise.  As Miss Greenwood has noticed, the typical Californian is not a pious man.  Exactly what he is, no one can tell better than our keen-witted friend, Mr. John W. Gally, who personifies him--as far as religion is concerned--in his "Big Jack Small."  The following extract explains itself:</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Mr. Small, do not you believe in the overruling providence of God?"</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Which God?"</P>
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094.sgm:<P>"There is but one God."</P>
094.sgm:<P>"I don't see it, parson.  On this yere Pacific Coast gods is numerous--Chinee gods, Mormon gods, Injin gods, Christian gods, <HI REND="italics">an' The Bank o' Californy</HI>
094.sgm:<P>The Reverend Mr. Sighall rose quickly to his feet, and pulled down his vest at the waistband, like a warrior unconsciously feeling for the girding of his armour.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Do you deny the truth of the sacred Scriptures, Mr. Small?"</P>
094.sgm:<P>"I don't deny  nothin', 'cept what kin come before me to be recognised.  What I say is I don't <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"You don't see it?"</P>
094.sgm:<P>"No, sir!"--emphasis on the sir.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Perhaps not with the natural eyesight; but with the eye of faith, Mr. Small, you can see it, if you humbly and honestly make the effort."</P>
094.sgm:<P>"I hain't got but two eyes--no extra eye fer Sunday use.  What I can't see, nor year, nor taste, nor smell, nor feel, or make up out o' reck'lection an' hitch together, hain't nothin' to me."</P>
094.sgm:<P>Jack Small is only a teamster; Mr. Sighall is an excellent and learned clergyman; but Jack could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:fill a hundred churches in California almost as quickly as Mr. Sighall could empty one.  M. Claudio Jannet, in a late work, affirms that America is going to the dogs, politically and socially--because of her indifference to religion--meaning to say, of course, the modern Roman religion.  If M. Jannet is right, then the Golden State is above all others on the verge of ruin.  For there, what Mr. John Morley would describe as the "old" impulses--faith in a personified divinity, devout obedience to the "supposed will" of this deity, and hope, grounded on that obedience, of receiving in a future state some ecstatic eternal reward--all these have been, as a general rule, forgotten, or left behind in the passes of the Rocky Mountains.  And unfortunately Mr. Morley's "new" impulses do not seem to have reached the Golden Gate.  It would be mere sarcasm to say that Californian society is as yet actuated by the new "religion of humanity," by "undivided love of our fellows, steadfast search after justice, firm aspiration towards improvement, and generous contentment in the hope that others may reap whatever reward may be."  It appears to us, moreover, that these "new" impulses have in great part been applied before to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>It may be well to wish that the slavish spirit of ignorant reverence should be eradicated, or resolved at least into intelligent reverence; it may be well that men should no longer oppress and torture each other with the weapons of a stone age before the altar of a Baal; but there is after all something more degrading than slavery--it is servility.  As ugly a taunt as ever shaped itself on the lips of man, is that of Paul-Louis Courier: " <HI REND="italics">Vous e&circ;tes, non le plus esclave, mais le plus valet de tous les peuples</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Yet, apart from its tendency to cringe, from its weakness at the knees, when a coin jingles, there are many estimable things about good Californian society.  Here may be found to a considerable extent, that recognised and respectable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:"Protestantism in social usages," which Mr. Herbert Spencer so earnestly desires for Europe.  San Francisco has no brummagem first gentleman among footmen, no Nova-Scotian baronet even to set up as a pope infallible in matters of etiquette and dress--to differ from whom or whose "set" is heresy.  From at least <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
094.sgm: kind of provincialism Californians are free.  Touching matters and manners <HI REND="italics">essentially</HI>
094.sgm:<P>So--in an atmosphere which is a strange mixture of courage and panic, of independence and servility, of the respectable and the contemptible--this young branch of the great world-tree develops itself.  Will it become the shelter and delight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:of a noble nation, or a retreat for doleful and obnoxious people and things?  The latter is unlikely.  Its rudest and ruggedest days must be past, or nearly past.  It is so full of the sap of the blood of a race which no Jesuits have ever been able to turn into hens, the sun shines on it so brightly, that its steady growth should throw off the parasites which disfigure it.  But for all that there will be no immediate change in the main conditions of its growth.  When Macaulay's "twentieth century" comes we shall see; but in the meantime it is useless to talk commonplaces of regenerating, in a single generation, a green plutocracy, by the turn of any political or religious crank, by education, or by the tempering of democracy with aristocracy.  These are matters for "evolution."  These are things not created in one day or in six--they grow.  People can, indeed, be taught, pretty nearly at once, to read, write, and cast accounts; but the ability to comprehend marks made on paper, or to make these marks for oneself, has just as much and as little to do with education as the babbling and the ideas of a baby have to do with the language and the genius of Shakspere.  The two things are different, not only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>As to having recourse to an aristocracy in California under present circumstances, nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:is less possible and, perhaps, less desirable.  Even were it desirable and possible, it might still be hard to find the real aristocrats.  The Comte de Gobineau, in a late work of fiction highly praised by the deceased Lord Lytton, estimates the number in all Europe of nobly-minded persons, the number of "well-born heads and hearts," at not more than "three thousand five hundred," who "shine in their isolation as Pleiades"--a ratio, by the way, something like ten times more discouraging than Hamlet's proportion of honest men to rogues.  We need all our good Pleiades at home; for, in the mass, what have been called "the upper ten thousand" seem to be in full retreat, with a Jenkins for their Xenophon.  Some of them have already cried &thgr;&agr;&lgr;&agr;&sgr;&sgr;&agr; have already seen the sea, have even run "violently down a steep place" into it, after a fashion set long ago in the country of the Gadarenes.  If these be our gods, then the sun is setting; the awful twilight, Ragna-ro&die;kr, comes; the hour of the complete overthorow of the divine is creeping on.  We do not fear it as some seem to do.  It must be admitted that the old gods have degenerated.  Balder the beautiful, the joy of all creatures, the pride of all, is dead long ago.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:Odin is no longer what he was when he first faced the Frost Giants; he has somehow lost an eye and become a mere bogie of the nursery.  The terrible hammer of Thor is either lost or broken.  Bragi, the eloquent, is, indeed, remembered by the word "brag"--and there is no fear of <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
094.sgm: disappearing, even in America, just yet.  But sweet Freyja--pray heaven it be only a slander of Loki!--is said to be willing to sell herself to a dwarf for a gold chain.  The high gods seem going, the Frost Cubs seem coming.  If this must be, it must be; and yet the future is not wholly hopeless.  The myths tell of a great cow, Audhumbla, who can lick these ice-lumps into shape.  It was her tongue that formed the fathers of the old gods long ago.  Let us take courage.  Very coarse our young cubs look, and even <HI REND="italics">red</HI>
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094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>THEIR POLITICIANS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Cela prouve que les gamins sont nos mai&circ;tres en politique, et que pour apprendre a&grave; s'e&acute;lever sans glisser, il faut imiter ce qu'ils font en montant au ma&circ;t de cocagne.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Et que font-ils donc, docteur?<LB>Ils le frottent de boue!</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">">Le Ma&circ;t de Cocagne</HI>
094.sgm:<P>The men who find words to grumble, to bewail, to curse, to do everything but denounce, who find time for business, pleasure, rest, idling, but none for active opposition to the disgrace which they deplore, are only less guilty in degree than the men whose villainies are making our name a hissing at home and abroad....Ten years ago we had wrung from the world an amazed respect and admiration for our courage, our constancy, our unlimited power of self-devotion and sacrifice.  What have we added to ourselves in these ten years?  Several new varieties of infamy.  What is the name of America now in Europe?--A synonyme for low rascality.-- <HI REND="italics">What is an American</HI>
094.sgm:<P>High wages here, under such circumstances, do not mean what they would elsewhere, since they do not at all add to the wealth of the receiver, but only to his power to exist in spite of a general system of public plunder, which he can by no possibility evade.  For this reason, although wages may be nominally high, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:they are really as low or lower than in Europe.--Leading Article, <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Chronicle</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Every person who pays taxes, may justly conclude that he is defrauded out of one-half the amount.--Leading Article, <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Call</HI>
094.sgm:<P>A community is said to be in a state of anarchy, when everybody does what he pleases.  We are not far from such a condition.  Great corporations and citizens, powerful by reason of their wealth, are above the law.  They not only do what they please, but make the local government their confederate and accomplice.  We do not think that the picture here presented is in the least overdrawn.  If it were possible to soften it in any particular, local self-pride would suggest such a course.  But in the existing state of affairs, any consideration of that kind would be weakness.  There is nothing suitable for the case but actual cautery.--Leading Article, <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Bulletin</HI>
094.sgm:<P>The Report of the late Attorney-General for the years 1874 and 1875....While the laws are good enough, he thinks there should be more certainty of punishment.  He adds:  <HI REND="italics">The administration of criminal justice in almost every county in the State</HI>
094.sgm: (of California) <HI REND="italics">is absolutely and unqualifiedly corrupt</HI>
094.sgm:.  This corruption generally lies with trial and grand jurors.  He wants the crime of bribing jurors to be made particularly dangerous.-- <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Record-Union</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Theoretically, a democratic government affords a fine opportunity for the selection of the best man for the highest office, by the voice of a grateful, trusting, and admiring people.  In fact, the best man never gets the highest office, and would never stoop to the low tricks and disgraceful compromises of personal dignity and political principle by which alone, under the present condition of things, the highest office can be secured."--Leading Article, "Scribner's Monthly," November, 1875.</P>
094.sgm:<P>The facility with which the legislature can be manipulated, and brought to sanction schemes fraught with injury to the people, is not a circumstance peculiar to California; although in several instances, heavy blows have in this way been struck at the prosperity of San Francisco.  Distrust of the legislature <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:often leads the people to reject that which is good, from the fear that an undertaking which looks well at the start, may be so managed as to result in ruin.  Thus it seems impossible to carry out any general system of irrigation, or of forest culture and preservation, desirable as these things may be, because the people have no confidence in anything which has to be managed by the legislature, or which can be interfered with by that body at any time, and diverted to the subservience of private ends.--Article "California," in the "Encyclop&aelig;dia Britannica," Ninth Edition, 1876, J. D. WHITNEY.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Nous ne pre&acute;tendons pas que le portrait que nous faisons ici<LB>soit vraisemblable: nous nous bornons a&grave; dire qu'il est ressemblant.</HI>
094.sgm:<P>-- <HI REND="italics">Les Mise&acute;rables</HI>
094.sgm:<P>MANY of us will volunteer on suitable occasions the statement that "we are miserable sinners."  Few of us will bear to be taken at our word in this matter by others.  There is a tall Byronic pride in asserting oneself naughty which breaks short off when echo heartily returns the charge.  The owner of an hotel is quite willing to abuse his servants as the worst and most infamous the world can show, but the traveller who should make the same accusation would find himself hotly taken to task for it.  When the traveller is a foreigner, the hotel a country, the hotel-keeper a nation, when the servants are its government officials, then the situation of the plaintive guest becomes supremely delicate and dangerous.  Hard to please, disagreeable, peevish, insolent--these will naturally be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>"Let bygones be bygones!" as someone said when dying and pressed hard on the subject of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Dagon is at the root of government by universal suffrage; that is to say (theories aside), government by a class; that is to say (as the real world runs), government by the meanest, government by the most ignorant, government by those most liable to, and least able to cope with, temptations to evil.  Dagon is the insane principle of mechanical rotation in office.  Dagon is at the root of this, and in his flower and fruit he is the Old Anarch.  We go on to show that we do not in a single point speak without book.</P>
094.sgm:<P>The judges of the Supreme Court of California are elected by "the people" for a term of ten years.  The judges of the District Courts are elected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Members of the State Senate are elected for a term of four years.  Members of the State Legislature are elected for a term of two years.  Again Mr. Hittell, the democrat and Californian:   These "members generally are men with little experience in business, and little character.  Gross corruption is common among them."</P>
094.sgm:<P>Not an office, from that of the bench to that of the baton, but is kicked, and kicked frequently, like a football through the filth of a contested party election.  Once more our Californian authority: "The Federal as well as the State offices are the subjects of scramble once in four years, or oftener, and success is not determined by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>In San Francisco alone there are over a hundred officials to be periodically elected by "the people."  Practically, decent people have, and can have, little to say in the matter.  The men already in office (and so controlling the funds necessary for bribery), a few low political clubs, made up of needy and disreputable persons who want to make money in their trade of "voting-early-and-often," together with those who need and are prepared to pay for their industry--these hold the keys of the political heaven.  Few men with a reputation to lose and the means of earning an honest livelihood, are willing to soil the one in the crush at the gate, or to exchange the other for a precarious and "scaly" position--to win which one must pass under the Big Tree already mentioned in a former chapter, the Liberty Tree, the tree of the knowledge of evil, the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
094.sgm: of the Great Republic, decorated with its peculiar kind of Chinese lantern, and clustering thick with Yahoos, who gibber and cast their filth at every one cleaner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:than themselves.  We cannot attempt to describe the sort of men who do present themselves as candidates, and who are necessarily elected in default of better.  Putting aside the more disgusting elements of this farce, there is an infinitely ludicrous and an infinitely impudent side to it, before which even ridicule sits down helpless and silent: nature has done so much that there is nothing left for art to do.  We doubt, for example, if the Londoner, Parisian, or Berliner exists who is perfectly capable of conceiving of the state of municipal things which can seriously produce, and cause to be seriously received, the following unexceptional and genuine "card," taken word for word, letter for letter, point for point, from <HI REND="italics">The San Francisco Call</HI>
094.sgm:<P>AN EQUAL RIGHTS CANDIDATE FOR CHIEF OF POLICE OF SAN FRANCISCO.--James Hall respectfully solicits the above office from all parties; he is the head of a numerous family; patient, persvering, active, industrious, with large experience in Police duties; twenty years a resident of this city; knows and is known generally and favorably; contributes largely to supoort city government; in favor of impartial selection of persons qualified for membership, and of each nationality in just proportion to the voters thereof.</P>
094.sgm:<P>We do not know whether the peculiar grammar, spelling, and punctuation of this document are the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:product of the unaided industry of the "head of a numerous family," or whether the "numerous family" assisted him in its composition, or how much or how little it owes to the genius of his printer; but, for all its pathos Mr. Hall's friends did not appear at the poll early enough and often enough to serve his purpose, and he must content himself for the present with increasing his police experience in his old capacity of full private, with multiplying his "numerous family" claims, with knowing "generally and favorably," and with anything else that may occur to the logical mind of <HI REND="italics">an equal rights candidate for a chieftainship</HI>
094.sgm:.  It is not such a bad thing after all to be a private in the ranks of the San Francisco police.  There are beats in the Chinese Quarter and along "The Barbary Coast," Dupont Street, and other localities of ill-fame, where the constables levy an open blackmail of from two to five dollars per head per week on the unfortunates who tenant these places, and whom the chaos of law and the carelessness of public opinion leave wholly at their mercy.  And it is a fact undeniable in San Francisco that the men on such beats are generally able to retire from active duty at the end of four years with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:comfortable competence for the rest of their lives.  It is hardly then a matter for wonder that, in the words of <HI REND="italics">The Bulletin</HI>
094.sgm:<P>In 1875, one Miller, a well-known bigamist, and a man who defrauded the Central Pacific Railroad Company of immense sums, attempted to fly with his booty.  But for the energy of the Company itself there is little doubt that they would never have seen again either Miller or their money.  They seized him, however, constituted themselves his judges and jailors, and, for two months, the Californian law courts and government had the pleasure of looking on at the edifying spectacle of a public criminal privately confined, tried, and squeezed empty of his ill-gotten gains.  At the end of the two months, and when the Company had recovered all that was possible, they allowed the government to take its man off their hands and to do with him as seemed good to them.  But the Company took no more interest in the matter; they had their own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:methods of doing themselves justice; they recognised no appeal to the inferior tribunals of the State of California.  Again, to go no farther back than 1875, three grand juries practically declared that general official theft and the particular crime of receiving bribes to reduce assessment were not only not to be punished but not to be heard of or investigated, when committed by the tools and agents ( <HI REND="italics">les a&circ;mes damne&acute;es</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Thus the most unblushing frauds are perpetrated without even the pretence of concealment.  Liberty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:is no longer a fair goddess but a raddled hag, bought and sold.  The roots of what Mr. Gladstone would probably call "a upas," have become entangled among such a compact mass of office-holders and friends of office-holders that they have come to be almost regarded as vested interests.  Any attempt to interfere with them creates such indignant outcry among the disturbed as did in England the suppression of the rotten boroughs or the reform of rotten municipalities.  How is all this to be cured?  Not by sermons we are afraid, however unctuous, or by talk however "tall."  Ah, how often one has to smile on hearing some Sunday-school philosopher of the extreme intuitional school treat of conscience as an eternal element of human nature, and picture the tortures of that "ayenbite of inwit" which is supposed to make Dead Sea apples of guilty gain!  The sinner's unhappiness rarely begins so long as he is allowed to retain possession of his spoils; his grapes never sour so long as they are within reach.  Conscience does not make so many cowards as the penitentiary.  The Dead Sea apples of "inwit" are a simple quack medicine when left to themselves to cure the disease of sinfulness.  Much better where crime <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:runs high is that rude old Pantagruelian herb, on whose merits and qualities the good physician of Meudon somewhere dilates.  This plant, which the vulgar call hemp, is of a most sovereign and marvellous virtue to point a moral, or adorn a cart-tail, or even a gibbet.  Applied in mild cases to the back as a rope's-end, or in the form of the harmless necessary cat, and in times of crisis to the neck, in the manner prescribed by the art of the harmful but necessary Ketch--it is a means for the restoration of political and social health, for which on the whole no equally efficient substitute has yet been found.  The mills of the gods grind too slowly in California; they might go farther and fare worse than try the tread-mill.  " <HI REND="italics">Quid mores sine legibus</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Is honesty the best policy?  It has been said that the answer to this question depends very much on the efficiency of the police, which is true enough in a certain sense, but yet in the long run apt to mislead those who habitually mistake the second person of the possessive for the first.  Thieves, both of the coarse-fingered and of the gloved class, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>However good may be the abstract legislative meaning of the legal forms in Californian use, their concrete executive meaning is unmistakably not good.  Justice is blind still and a little deaf too on the side of equity, but she has learnt a certain finger alphabet by which the worst and meanest can under given conditions come to a perfect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:understanding with her.  Have gold in your palm when you take her by the fingers.  The ex-Governor of Salmigondin had learnt the secret: " <HI REND="italics">Or c&cedil;a, or c&cedil;a, or c&cedil;a!"  De la&grave;, je prins conjecture, comme pourrions francs et delivre&acute;s eschaper, leur jectant or la&grave;!</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Of course it is not meant to be even insinuated that all the holders of office in California, legal and political, are fairly represented by Chief-Justice Grippeminaud.  We have the honour of the friendship of three or four, as perfect and as honest gentlemen as if they had never entered "public life."  Others, again, though uncouth and springing from the lowest estate, give as much surprise by the display of good qualities in the exercise of their real authority as Sancho Panza did in the use of his imaginary power.  But their resemblance to the honest peasant of La Mancha too often ends in the fact of their being illiterate and, when they enter their office, poor.  Most of them can truly enough say, "Without a white cent I came to this government;" few can add, "and without a cent I leave it."</P>
094.sgm:<P>Corruption!  The word has become a common-place; one is sick of repeating it, sick of illustrating it.  From the black and bulky roll of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:notes before us under this heading, we shall trouble the reader with but one extract, selected for its novelty.  In the early part of 1875 it somehow slipped out that the local authorities in the matter of education had such connection with an under-waiter or dish-washer of the Grand Hotel in San Francisco, that applicants for positions as teachers in the public schools of the city could, by paying this sculleryman sums ranging from twenty dollars up to a hundred, secure assurance of appointment.  The appointments were sold and the buyers installed as teachers on these terms and irrespective of mental qualifications, as was admitted under cross-examination by a considerable number of the persons concerned.  The result of much clamour was that several teachers were dismissed, nominally for having bought their positions as described, really because they had given dangerous evidence and had admitted the purchase; but not one of the higher officials of the Board of Education, none of the responsible functionaries who had made and dealt out the appointments exactly as they had been retailed by the scullion, none of these was reached by any punishment other than that of public opinion.  Under their honourable signatures, or by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>The story runs that the ermine sometimes dies of grief when anything happens to soil or destroy the whiteness of its fur.  The <HI REND="italics">Mus candidatus</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Though Saint Luke shows it plainly enough, it has not been noticed by commentators that when the Saviour said "It is easier for a camel to go through a needle's eye, than for a rich man to enter into the kingdom of God," our Lord had his eyes fixed not on rich men in general (as has been up to this hour most unjustly taken for granted) but on a particular type of rich man, on an &agr;&rgr;&khgr;&ohgr;&ngr;, an office-holder, an elected official, a successful "politician" in a word.  This and this only was the kind of rich man in question at the time, and it is a shame that it should devolve upon a layman to call attention to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Again, Judas, surnamed Iscariot, held fiscal office in the first Christian commonwealth, and it is to be regretted that his official successors in later republics have a habit of following his precedent of conduct too far--or not far enough.</P>
094.sgm:<P>As to judicial office, the virtuous and wise Pantagruel declined a place on the Bench of Paris, because "it was with too great difficulty that those who filled such places could save their souls."  Then looking at the judges around him, he ventured the further opinion, that if the empty seats in heaven were not filled up by "another sort of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>A glance into the upper legislative assembly the Senate of the State of California.  On January 20, 1876, the Honourable Senator Laine offered the following resolution:</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Whereas--On the eighteenth day of January the Hon. J. W. Wilcox, a member of the Assembly of the State of California, immediately after a temporary adjournment of the Senate of the said State entered the Senate Chamber while the same was occupied by a large number of its members, officers, and <HI REND="italics">attache&acute;s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"Whereas--In the judgment of the Senate the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>No matter what was resolved, for, by a vote of 23 as against 14, it was decided that "the conduct of said Wilcox was <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
094.sgm: reprehensible and tarnishing to the reputation of the Legislature," and the Hon. Senator Tuttle moved and carried "the indefinite postponement of the whole subject."  It will be felt by those who know "the reputation of the Legislature" best, that the Hon. Senator Tuttle was right, that it would be as fit to talk of gilding refined gold, as to speak of "tarnishing" in this connection; and above all, it will be felt that the reporter who takes his seat "under the protection" of the Honourable Senate, and goes "within its bar," unprovided with <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
094.sgm: bludgeon and <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Reprehensible examples of unparliamentary violence, bodily and verbal, occur rather frequently in the modern history of American legislative assemblies.  It is not so very long since the late Mr. Sumner was clubbed half to death in his chair on the floor of "the House" at Washington; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Neither must California be stigmatised as the only modern country unfortunate in its legislators.  Kindred political systems tend to produce the same results in other places.  A reference to the Melbourne papers of January, 1876, will show that the Legislative Assembly Chambers of that city is anything but a home of decency and decorum.  And the following, from a London paper, is as it were a selection from the first chapter of a history whose end no one acquainted with American politics need be a prophet to foresee:</P>
094.sgm:<P>"A meeting of the Royal Colonial Society was held on Wednesday evening, 26th April, 1876, at the Pall Mall Restaurant, under the presidency of the Duke of Manchester, when the Bishop of Melbourne read a paper on the progress of the colony of Victoria.  What was most to be deplored with regard to the character of the colonists was, he said, that there was no intelligent middle class, who could devote their time to the study and direction of the Administration, both legislative and municipal.  The result of this was that, universal suffrage having been established, and the bulk of the uneducated men being led away by stump oratory, men became elected to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Closing this chapter, we wish to be distinctly understood as disavowing any intention to leave upon the mind of any reader the idea that the Californians are "rotting before they are ripe"--as to their "institutions" that is quite another matter.  But we insist upon the exceptional necessity in this case of separating the people from their government.  It is not as in Europe, where institutions have grown with and become part of a given nation, under mutual unconscious modifications and adaptations, going on for centuries.  In California the system of government is an upstart muddle of raw theories and make-shifts, which certainly appears bearable only because the country is so large and the inhabitants comparatively so few that they can as yet manage to keep pretty well out of each other's way.  The people as a people have neither made their government nor grown up with it.  They have never even given its working the benefit of their serious attention.  As it exists, it depends for its very life upon the vice of the vicious, the ignorance of the ignorant, and the sad or careless contempt of the honest and the educated.  That <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>The extracts which introduce this chapter, show that no stranger can outdo in severity of criticism the Americans themselves.  Take, again, the lately published "Gilded Age," of Mark Twain and Dudley Warner.  No alien can hope to succeed in displaying and detailing the utter degradation of United States "politicianism," as this novel has.  And a criticism of it, which we have somewhere read, by M. Th. Bentzon, is appreciative and just in all respects but one.  The French critic does <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Everyone has read of a certain famous hunter, who, taking aim at a 'coon, was addressed by the animal:</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Hillo! who are you?"</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Martin Scott."</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Well, then, you needn't shoot; I'll come down.  I'm a gone 'coon."</P>
094.sgm:<P>If the average Californian "politician" has only half the common sense of Captain Scott's racoon, Macaulay's "twentieth century," will be likely to see him "come down," without waiting for unpleasant formalities.</P>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>THEIR WRITERS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Vie de patience et de courage, ou&grave; l'on ne peut lutter que reve&circ;tu d'une forte cuirasse d'indiffe&acute;rence a&grave; l'e&acute;preuve des sots et des envieux, ou&grave; l'on ne doit pas, si l'on ne veut tre&acute;bucher en chemin, quitter un seul moment l'orgueil de soi-me&circ;me, qui sert de ba&circ;ton d'appui; vie charmante et vie terrible, qui a ses victorieux et ses martyrs, et dans laquelle on ne doit entrer qu'en se re&acute;signant d'avance a&grave; subir l'impitoyable loi du <HI REND="italics">v&aelig; victis</HI>
094.sgm:!-- <HI REND="italics">Sce&grave;nes de la Bohe&circ;me</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Mari A.  Eh bien! moi, j'admire les gens de lettres, mais de loin; je les trouve insupportables; ils ont une conversation despotique; je ne sais ce qui nous blesse le plus de leurs de&acute;fauts ou de leurs qualite&acute;s, car il semble vraiment que la superiorite&acute; de l'esprit ne serve qu'a&grave; mettre en relief leurs de&acute;fauts et leurs qualite&acute;s.</P>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">">Femme</HI>
094.sgm: B.  Mais Monsieur A., vous e&circ;tes bien difficile!  I1 me semble que les sots ont tout autant de de&acute;fauts que les gens de talent, a&grave; cette diffe&acute;rence pre&grave;s qu'ils ne savent pas se les faire pardonner!-- <HI REND="italics">Physiologie du Mariage</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Malgre&acute; la re&acute;serve que nous nous sommes toujours impose&acute;e dans nos voyages, nous introduirons le lecteur avec nous chez Zichy, sans croire abuser de l'hospitalite&acute; offerte: si l'on doit s'arre&circ;ter sur le seuil du foyer intime, on peut, ce nous semble, entre-bai&circ;ller la porte de l'atelier.-- <HI REND="italics">Voyage en Russie</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">">Cade</HI>
094.sgm:.  Be brave then; for your captain is brave, and vows <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">Enter some bringing in the Clerk of Chatham</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Smith</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Cade</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Smith</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Cade</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Smith</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Cade</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dick</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Cade</HI>
094.sgm:<P>--Second Part of King Henry VI., SHAKSPERE.</P>
094.sgm:<P>It may help us somewhat to understand Californian journalism, if we approach it not as a personification or being standing by itself, possessed of a moral or immoral nature, and responsible for its actions, but as a being living by and moving by certain external powers over which it has little control.  In theoretic exactness of course all causes and effects are more or less reversible, interchangeable.  Put a bit of red-hot iron into a horse-pond, and it will be open to philosophers to say that it has heated the pond.  For all practical purposes, however, the result of the experiment may be described as a cooling of the iron.  In California, newspapers do not so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:much shape public opinion, as public opinion shapes the newspapers.  They are made to sell, and to sell on the spot and at once; neither posterity nor people, a few hundred miles off, can affect them in any way; in face of a small population and immense competition, their very life depends on selecting and publishing daily, what tickles most and wounds least some effective majority of readers.  If there were large numbers of these of all classes of intelligence and culture, the papers would have choice and independence between one and another; but this is not the case.  It is therefore as unjust for anyone to attack the journal of the Western States for being provincial, for being one-sided, or for what not, as it would be to revile a country tailor for not cutting his clothes after some far-off metropolitan model.  The poor tailor, though he makes the clothes, is perhaps the last man in the village who has anything to say as to their cut.  Not a lapel, not a button, not a seam but is the product of a stage of evolution, for which no one man nor class of men can or should be made conspicuously responsible.  An able critic ( <HI REND="italics">pace</HI>
094.sgm: M. de Pontmartin), the late The&acute;ophile Gautier, presses this point, in terms indeed too <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>"Books follow morals and manners; morals and manners do not follow books.  The Regency has made Cre&acute;billon, it is not Cre&acute;billon who has made the Regency.  The little shepherdesses of Boucher were rouged and low-bodiced because the little marchionesses were rouged and low-bodiced.  Pictures copy their models and not the models the pictures.  I know not who has said I know not where, that literature and the arts influence morals and manners.  Whoever he may be, he is indubitably a great blockhead.  It is just like saying, Green peas bring spring.  Green peas come, on the contrary, because it is spring, and cherries because it is summer.  Trees bear fruits; assuredly it is not the fruits that bear the trees--a law eternal and invariable in its variety.  The centuries succeed each other and each bears its fruit, which is not that of the century preceding.  Books are the fruits of morals and manners."</P>
094.sgm:<P>Now, though after all, there are exceptions to all this (after the manner of the odd clocks which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:no Charles the Fifth can regulate) and though one is here, as so often elsewhere in this mixed world, forced to figure like the Landlord Snell of George Eliot, and say that "there's two opinions" and "they're both right," it must be said that Gautier's opinion is particularly the right one in the present instance.  In Western American mining towns and agricultural districts where primeval manners and morals are as rough as the back of Esau's hand, the newspapers are rough--the paper is whity-brown, the types are blurred, the ink is dim, the style should drive a sensitive <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
094.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">De&acute;bats</HI>
094.sgm:<P>In the larger cities the newspapers mirror exactly, stage for stage, the larger culture and the better-founded opinions of the available readers.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:If they also mirror the information and the ideas of their editors it is a convenient coincidence, and nothing more.  This may be made more apparent by the statement of the fact that at least one-half of the writers on the San Francisco press are foreigners by birth and education, and that at least one quarter of them are still foreigners at law and in sentiment.  They are merely the secretaries and echoes of public opinion, and their clients find them as laborious and accurate in this capacity as any to be found of native birth and training.  The best Californian journals present really good and timely summaries of news, and even occasionally, as we have shown by extracts (all, as far as our knowledge goes, written by Americans), they venture, on the strength of their merits in this respect, to speak a wholesome truth without regard to its palatableness--especially when it can be connected with the shortcomings of some hostile man or party.  They are far from perfect these papers, but they are as perfect as they can afford to be, and it is only the merest justice to say that their writers are in the main men far ahead, in all points, of the voting public, and that the general tone of their personal influence as far as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>We are afraid to guess at the number of newspapers published in California.  Every little district and village has its one, two, or three "organs," according to the number of separate political or business interests that can sum up one or two hundred subscribers.  The functions of editor, leader writer, reporter, printer, and newsboy are often united in one person, who may be at the same time the schoolmaster, doctor, or lawyer of the hamlet.  He must "look up" grocery advertisements, chronicle the raids of stray pigs, the "difficulties" between "prominent citizens," and at the same time be as much as possible in the tavern, which is always the prytaneum of the district, the centre of speech and action, the principal resort of the various "governors," "judges," and "colonels," who make up the local magnates, and who are surprisingly abundant among a people who despise the factitious distinctions of rank.  He must know how to use the scissors and should know how to use the bowie-knife, unless, as many do, he prefers a sand-bag.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:The country editor, in a lively growing place where subscriptions are paid only and paid precariously in corn, pumpkins, and bacon cannot afford to carry a pistol--at the present prices of ammunition.  Where there are so many competitors, each man who would live must spice his articles till they burn, and burn <HI REND="italics">somebody</HI>
094.sgm:<P>San Francisco and Sacramento are getting away from this stage of development.  Still, we are confident that a majority of their prominent newspaper writers have at one time or other each taken part, passive or active, in at least one murderous assault.  We recall one scene out of several which we happened to see with our own eyes.  Three clever brothers, whom we shall name the Brothers A--, controlled one of the leading morning papers of San Francisco.</P>
094.sgm:<P>An ex-employe&acute; of theirs, whom we shall call <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:B--, started an opposition "sheet" of more than usually scurrilous character; and one day all the city was set agog by an article in its columns devoted to affirming the existence of a <HI REND="italics">bend sinister</HI>
094.sgm: in the escutcheon of the A--s, broad and back and of modern date.  As society went there was but one opinion as to what was necessary to rehabilate the honour of the house of A--s, and they showed themselves fully aware of and equal to the situation.  Armed to the teeth they scoured the streets and stopped as far as possible the circulation of B--'s paper, and that with such success that ten dollars was in a few hours vainly offered for a copy of the issue containing the slander, and stalls were fitted up with lamps in the evening when such as chose could snatch, on payment of half-a-dollar, the fearful excitement of reading it.  The A--s then "raided" upon B--'s office.  Fortunately for himself the offending libeller was not to be found, but his furniture and "plant" were instantly destroyed.  The law had also been applied to--maddened men will grasp at any weapon--and the offensive paper was put under an injunction while its editor was, as we understand, of his own motion and for safety, lodged in prison.  When he appeared <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:before the "judge" (magistrate), one of the brothers attempted to use a pistol on him, and had to be disarmed in open court; but even with this warning the police were unable to protect their prisoner, and he was twice fired on in the street while in their custody.  In a few days the storm seemed to blow over, the "case" at law on both sides was practically dead and buried.  Everybody seemed to be satisfied, and to think the affair ended.  A few days went by, till one morning as several men, among whom we were, sat in the printing-office of "The Overland Monthly," situated just across the street from the San Francisco General Post Office, a single pistol-shot was heard in the street, followed rapidly by others.  We all rushed to the windows, and there, in the thick of a crowd, always large at that time and place, were B--and one of the A--s dodging each other among the pillars of the post-office portico, and emptying their revolvers as rapidly as possible, with that profound obliviousness of the presence of others liable to be hurt which peculiarly distinguishes people unaccustomed to the close air of civilisation.  The "unpleasantness" lasted about a minute; six or eight shots were fired; till B--, whose pistol, as he explained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:afterwards, "didn't work worth a cent," took to ignominious flight, and the grim but triumphant A--remained master for all time of the situation, but looking reproachfully at his weapon, whose stock he had lapped with cloth lest it should become slippery with the sweat inseparable from keeping the hand ready and gripped on it for many hours together.  There was after all nobody shot dead--"only a small boy wounded," and a woman or two bruised in the rush.  A--reimbursed the "small boy" handsomely and paid the surgeon's bill.  B--"took water" and disappeared for the time-being into the Avernus of journalists who lose caste, not having quitted himself on this critical occasion as behoved a man of his high calling.  And the law?--the libeller was not punished for his libel; the A--s were not punished for their repeated attempts to murder, or even for "contempt of court" in drawing and using a deadly weapon upon a disarmed and helpless prisoner in its actual custody.  And the public regretted the bad shooting of the combatants; not perhaps so much from blood-thirsty motives as because it gave occasion for insult and irony, and invidious comparisons on the part of little contemptible places whose journalists <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>After this, it is not to be wondered at that on the passing of the Concealed Weapons Ordinance, in the summer of 1875, the first, or among the first of the applications to the Board of Police Commissioners for permission to carry hidden arms came from the "city editor" of a respectable evening paper in San Francisco.  It ran: "The position which the journal with which I am connected has assumed in the present political campaign, and the character of aspirants for office, render it necessary for me to provide myself with a weapon of defence."  There is something deliciously droll here in the applicant's use of the word "provide," much as if a licence had been required for stationery, and he had talked of "providing" himself with a pen.</P>
094.sgm:<P>The Californian people, as voiced by their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:journals, have been accused of ill-feeling towards England, and have, again, been described as characterised by the most glowing affection for this country.  To come at the truth, the reader may as well try the maiden's oracle of the flower as any other: "He loves me--a little--much--passionately--not at all!"  Try it backwards and forwards, and stop anywhere, and you find the answer agree with one already given by someone somewhere.  The fact is, that except when newly excited by a reproof or a flattery from some foreign book, traveller, or journal, the Californian is indifferent to all things outside his immediate horizon.  It is certainly doubtful if he cares enough about the Eastern States of his own Continent to cherish any old historical grudges in the matter of the mother country's treatment of them a hundred years ago or since.  There was a day, we suppose, when Parson Caldwell, of Springfield, who, according to Mr. Bret Harte, "loved the Lord God and hated King George," would have been a fair type of the New England journalistic temperament; but at any rate the last clause of this description is long ago gone out of fashion in Boston, and neither the first clause nor the last clause ever much troubled any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:pen west of the Rocky Mountains, except in moments of exceptional excitement.  California is not literary, and literature is, perhaps, the only subject on which Anglo-America is still willing to take lessons from Great Britain, or pay attention to her opinion, <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
094.sgm:<P>English misunderstandings with the Californian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:journalist, though generally trivial, partake of the venomous nature of civil wars or family quarrels.  In the words of the antique W. Rowley:  "I would he were not so neere to us in kindred, then sure he would be neerer in kindnesse."  From the sublime to the ridiculous in such matters there is but a step, and that step is often taken in San Francisco.  On the "glorious fourth of July," 1875, an English actress, under engagement in the California Theatre, dropped, in private conversation, an injudicious &aelig;sthetic criticism on the profuse masses of striped and starred bunting everywhere--on the side-walks, in the shops, in the tram-cars, waved, draped, and flapped, principally by enthusiastic "hoodlums" and street-boys, with accompaniments of crackers and fireworks, hurled specially, not only in the direction of, but into the faces and against the persons of "Britishers" wherever they could be distinguished.  Flags were waved, among all most proudly, above the clash of Fenian music by patriotic military bands--from Ireland.  The girl's words were confidentially reported to some greenroom gallant of the note-book, who again whispered them into some capacious editorial ear.  That "crack," as the Scotch would say, was the crack <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:of doom.  Now, indeed, strangers understood the thrill that ran through creation when "the flag" had been fired upon at Fort Sumter.  From the editorial and correspondence columns of, we believe, every paper in the city--possibly enough every paper in the State--there rose a loud, long, and indignant cry.  The managers of the theatre were distinctly adjured to dismiss the girl who had insulted a great nation.  A prophetically encouraging hint was given to the "hoodlums" of the upper gallery that the gallant fire companies would depute representatives to mob the actress and stop the play by a riot should she dare to desecrate an American stage with her presence--a hint, perhaps, robbed of its fruit by the unlooked-for appearance among "the gods" and conspirators of certain fanatical and armed admirers of the buskined heroine.  The affair almost took the dimensions of a Congress of Geneva matter, and the last newspaper "leader" on the subject only appeared on the 18th of July.  During this time we are informed (having been all the while in another part of the State) that the actress and her friends remained strictly on the defensive and silent, save that she had, when the "difficulty" began, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>The best newspaper of the State is <HI REND="italics">The Sacramento Record-Union</HI>
094.sgm:.  Its leading articles are to a very creditable extent marked by calmness and breadth of view, while its news in general is fresh and freshly put, yet in a style marked by considerable respect for the genius of our language.  It is said to be "the organ" of The Central Pacific Railroad Company.  Leaving Sacramento for San Francisco, we find "the organ" of the enemies of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:the company in <HI REND="italics">The Evening Bulletin</HI>
094.sgm:.  This paper, with <HI REND="italics">The Alta</HI>
094.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">The Examiner</HI>
094.sgm: seem to make an effort to avoid sensational articles, and they succeed fairly enough when their likes and dislikes are not involved.  In the world of avowed "sensationalism," <HI REND="italics">The Chronicle, The Call</HI>
094.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">The Post</HI>
094.sgm: race for the leadership.  They are eminently newspapers of "enterprise," especially <HI REND="italics">The Chronicle</HI>
094.sgm:, and when the pace begins to tell they are apt to become excited, and even irritated, to let down their back hair, and to show more stocking than becomes the truly modest Muse of Journalism.  After all these, come an indefinite number of Irish, Spanish, German, Italian, Chinese, and French "organs"-- <HI REND="italics">Le Courrier Franc&cedil;ais</HI>
094.sgm:<P>The most unique and in some respects most interesting of all the San Francisco papers cannot be passed without a special word; it is <HI REND="italics">The News Letter</HI>
094.sgm:, a satirical paper adored by the Californians, as Febris was worshipped by the Romans--for fear.  Its proprietor, and, as is believed, its real and active editor is Mr. Frederick Marriott (an Englishman, said to have been connected long ago <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:in London with the founding of <HI REND="italics">The Illustrated London News</HI>
094.sgm: ) a venerable old gentleman, whose face of extraordinary beauty is always to be seen at mid-day on the sunny side of California Street or of Montgomery Street, gliding about wherever business is busiest, wherever men most resort.  He halts slightly on one leg, and is somewhat slow in moving one arm, but he is over sixty years of age, and the wonder is not that he is somewhat stiff in one or two members but that he has either life or limb left, for the calculus has not been invented that can deal with the number and variety of "difficulties" he has survived. Against steel, lead, cane of malacca, and bludgeon of hickory he seems to bear a charmed life.  The high gods who made that fair face of his have guarded it a thing of beauty if not exactly a joy for ever--to its enemies.  It is difficult to say where in particular its attractiveness lies, or what are its especial characteristics.  At moments one should imagine Anacreon had such a face, and again it has certainly a touch of Be&acute;ranger.  Skin of dazzling freshness and delicacy; chin and mouth broadly cut but always dimpled and curved, as if suppressing a smile; the brow large and framed with silky hair, that seems not white <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:with years but powdered in the fashion of our grandfathers; the eyes limpid, serenely deep as an artesian well that goes down through cool levels, but down to red lava at the centre; the face of a seraph, one dare not say a fallen seraph, but singed slightly, with wings slightly trailing--the consequence of some too reckless charges into the smoke by the side of Michael.  In connection with wings, it is to be noted that Mr. Marriott has incorporated an "Aerial Steam Navigation Company," and that he has invented a flying machine of some kind which has not yet been exhibited to the public.  In the meantime he is none the less the destroying angel of Californian journalism.  His paper is published weekly, and while it is said to be an authority in matters touching "the street" or on 'Change, its real power lies in its satirical innumerable paragraphs relating to society in general and to individuals in particular.  No roof is too high or too low for its Asmodeus.  Absolutely no creed, positive or negative, no institution, liberal or illiberal, no personage, from the Governor at Sacramento to the crazy beggar known as "Emperor Norton"--none or nothing is exempt from the shafts of this Apollo-Apollyon.  He is, a in different and truer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:sense than Sir Walter Scott used the term of himself, "one of the Black Hussars of literature;" he neither takes nor gives quarter.  His paper, established now for twenty years, and sold at the high price of old-fashioned times, still lords it over all competitors, seeming to be a kind of mental dram which everyone drinks, no matter how ill he can afford the cost, no matter though it be killing himself by inches.  To the reserve of Rabelais it adds the reverence of Heinrich Heine and the mercy of Jonathan Swift.  Account for its life and prosperity as you may when we say that its special butt and <HI REND="italics">be&circ;te noire</HI>
094.sgm: is republicanism, and the one abomination which it cannot away with is the overlordship of "the demos."  And while the State of California (not waiting longer than was absolutely necessary to calculate chances and fix on the probable winner) "went with" the North, and was "strong upon the stronger side," in the late Civil War, <HI REND="italics">The News Letter</HI>
094.sgm: continued to rain its cynical torment on the principles and principals of the Federalists, till the mob left it without a type to print from or a press to print with.  Yet to-day it takes every opportunity to drop its salt into the old wounds, with that diabolic coolness, that supernatural <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Men of all opinions agree that <HI REND="italics">The News Letter</HI>
094.sgm: has at least occasionally done good service to the State.  For example, it is generally acknowledged that the condition of medical education in California, and, indeed, in the United States generally, is very bad.  Not only in many places are quacks set upon "an equal rights" basis with regularly qualified graduates of medicine, but the qualification of the graduates is anything but what it should be.  Dr. H. C. Wood, in "Lippincott's Magazine," December, 1875, has affirmed that the medical diploma of Harvard University is "the only one issued by any prominent American medical college which is a guarantee that its possessor has been well educated in the science and practice of medicine.  <HI REND="italics">The Sacramento Record-Union</HI>
094.sgm: has also taken up the matter in a spirit of fearless and equitable plain-dealing.  But it was reserved for <HI REND="italics">The News Letter</HI>
094.sgm: to "carry the war into Africa," to attack "Our Quacks" personally, individually by name, by exact address, and where possible, by a short and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:anything but sweet biographical sketch; and to appear in the face of a torrent of lawsuits and assaults to murder, week after week, month after month, with a double column of some two hundred names, enclosed in a black mourning frame, headed by a wood-cut representing a scull and cross-bones, with the title "Our Quacks."  These names had tacked on to them such pithy comments as "late hospital steward," "coloured barber," "cobbler," "bar-tender," "rag-gatherer," "jail-bird," "alias Fox," "drifting about."  We know of at least one case in which sad injustice was unwittingly done; and, indeed, the whole system of which this is a part would be an intolerable scourge in any community where law was either respectable or respected.  But the bar of iron with which it would be brutal to beat a high-bred horse may become a merely mild and necessary corrective when the horn of the rhinoceros is levelled against his keeper.  There are evil corners in the newest civilisation, just like those old quarters of London before the days of the Monument, where all manner of plagues fasten and fester; nothing but a great and cruel fire can swiftly obliterate the nuisance and purify the air.  <HI REND="italics">The News Letter</HI>
094.sgm: is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>A motley crowd of estimable scholars, and persons neither scholars nor estimable, and queer characters generally, have drifted together to make up the newspaper writers of California.  Sailors who have touched all shores but the Pactolian.  Financiers and mathematicians who have been able to calculate all numbers but one--"Of the Golden Number, <HI REND="italics">non dicitur</HI>
094.sgm:; I cannot find it this year, calculate how I may," as Mai&circ;tre Alcofribas sadly expressed it.  Soldiers of fortune, grim and gay, who have hunted hogs in India, or Arabs in Algeria, or Apaches in Arizona, and who are now engaged in "sticking" that redoubtable pig--in spearing with a pen " <HI REND="italics">cet animal fe&acute;roce qu'on appelle la pie&grave;ce de cent sous</HI>
094.sgm:."  Graduates of all universities from Aberdeen to Rome, and graduates of those famous foundations the School of Adversity, the Academy of Audacity.  These are as a rule not the men whom Honourable Members find it to their advantage to cane.  Large Philistines have again and again brought upon themselves extreme physical torment by attacking some of the least of them.  No wonder they are a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>The saddest experiences of an editor are in dealing with the helpless misery of those maimed in the struggle who necessarily drift his way; men with temperaments and talents that in a rough provincial-colonial <HI REND="italics">milieu</HI>
094.sgm: are wholly out of place.  It is easy to say, and indeed it must be said, that they are themselves to blame, that they lack energy, common-sense, what not--this is true, platitudinously true--but they are none the less to be pitied a little and helped where one can.  It is not always easy to tell whether it is weakness or grand shattered strength that quivers there on the wheel.  Neither stark might, nor wily prudence, nor any combination of both avails much under certain conditions not always to be foreseen.  Most of the unfortunates belong, as a matter of course, to "the martyrology of mediocrity;" it is their only crown, their only title to a place in our hearts.  But every now and then some finer soul is frayed to death in that grinding chaos of rough atoms, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:one regards such things with more than pity; the note of storm and stress and blind rage sounds almost reasonable here.  One feels tempted by proxy to come up smiling no longer to the mark, tempted to forget the grim delicious pleasure of countering the adversary squarely home, tempted to merely throw up the arms and rail in some Prometheus-Manfred fashion.  But the thing cannot be helped if people will not be content with callous flesh, but must have something finer, though they know that all life must go on stones and among thorns, they have themselves to blame for it when the blood comes.  Yet there are circumstances when this lot is crueller than usual.  There are men capable of incredible patience, exertion, and achievement in prospect of a great possible prize, who without that must perish with hardly an effort.  When it is a choice--Westminster Abbey or Waterloo Bridge, <HI REND="italics">l'Acade&acute;mie ou la Morgue</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Are the shadows falling too darkly?  Is the reader wishing for sunshine?  Then follow us a little farther.</P>
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094.sgm:<P>First, let it be remarked that one thumbs in vain over the innumerable books of travel and letters of newspaper correspondents treating of California, for any mark of insight into the local state of literature and science properly so called.  When any opinion is given on the subject, it would almost seem as if the authorities were agreed to adopt and paraphrase as suitable in this case, the famous chapter by a certain writer, on the manners and customs of a certain people--"Science they have none, and their literature is beastly."  So noisy are all varieties of pseudo-scientific quacks, so wistfully slanderous are certain Yahoo journals--journals always in the market and, their price paid, capable of anything, even of telling the truth--so flaring is all this, that a stranger is liable at first to do the country in general the injustice of supposing that the unsavoury condition of the outside of the cup and platter extends to the inside.  Nothing could well be more unjust; modest, laborious, and intelligent workers in several departments of pure literature and science may be found here--"Florentine by birth though not in manners."</P>
094.sgm:<P>Almost in the heart of the city rises a great brick building of five stories, solid and braced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:with iron bars, queerly decorated at the top with fantastic images or gargoyles, that grin down perpetual defiance on the earthquake and the way-faring troll.  Just below these gargoyles, we are on the topmost storey in a great room, whose extent gives it the air of being low-ceiled.  On either hand long parallels of book-shelves line the walls, and seem to touch each other where in the distance they near the vanishing point--books everywhere, big and little, files of journals in English and Spanish, some sixteen hundred bound volumes of all kinds, in languages varying from Greek to Quiche&acute;.  They belong to a studious Californian, Mr. Hubert Bancroft, a bookseller originally, who ten or twelve years ago practically gave up the selling of books for the reading of them, and especially of such as related to the history of the native races of his continent.  He became an investigator of American antiquities and American ethnology.  He grew more and more interested in this research.  Master, happily, of a handsome fortune, he devoted his income to his subject, collecting books personally or by agents, wherever they were to be found--in Madrid, Rome, Leipzig, Paris, London, New York, Mexico, or elsewhere.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:The result is a library of authorities, references, <HI REND="italics">me&acute;moires pour servir</HI>
094.sgm:, more complete in its special department than any other in existence, as far as our knowledge goes.  It has been fortunate in securing many literary windfalls that should be valuable, if only from the point of view of the bibliophile.  When the crash of the Empire came in Mexico, a great part of the imperial books and documents were secured by Mr. Bancroft; and at one time or other, revolutions of various kinds have thrown into his hands original and unpublished documents of great value, from the archives of monasteries and governments in most parts of Central America.  The C&aelig;sar Augustus of <HI REND="italics">Ame&acute;ricanistes</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Surely if we have dealt sharply with transgressors, we may be allowed to deal lovingly with one whose influence cannot but in some degree neutralise many of the more material and sordid tendencies of the State of his adoption.  Mr. Bancroft was born in Ohio; he is a tall, squarely-cut man of thirty-five or forty, as one should judge, but already with the shadow of a student's stoop in the shoulders that support a quiet head, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:with thin refined face, full chin, high nose, full large gray eyes, and longish wavy hair, now almost iron-gray--a brave, patient, hard-reading man, wholly unservile.  " <HI REND="italics">Bildung macht frei</HI>
094.sgm:<P>He is the head of all the work done in that room we have glanced into, and certain younger men are the hands.  It was here was written "The Native Races of the Pacific States;" it is here that other and kindred works are preparing, after the fashion to be described by one who has been part of all he saw, and yet who is bound by no other ties than those of friendship.  The manner of working was perhaps suggested by that of Humboldt or some other German author, or possibly by that of Mr. Herbert Spencer, or possibly the exigencies of the situation suggested it of themselves.  A given division of a given subject coming under consideration, Mr. Bancroft and some one or two in particular of his assistants, set themselves to thoroughly master all that the library contained in that connection.  Much of the assistant's time being swallowed up in the search for material, Mr. Bancroft was the freer to dispose of that material as it was brought under his notice, and was thus able to divide his attention between two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:or more subjects and two or more sets of assistants at the same time.  He framed the skeleton of every chapter, the assistant filled up the outlines; Mr. Bancroft then moulded the whole after the fashion of his judgment and his art into its final and perfected shape.  While this was doing, or at least when the proofs came up from the printer, everyone had a word to say.  The proofs went from table to table.  That man was happiest and most highly esteemed who could point out most flaws in the work submitted to him, or in his neighbours' criticisms of that work.  No pet theory, no doubtful fact, might very easily hope to escape examination.  Dark Spanish eyes, Catholic to their last shadow, were strained to detect any sly gesture or tone that might minimise the respect or credit due to the Holy Church.  Slowly shaking the <HI REND="italics">Philister</HI>
094.sgm: out of his long pipe, an ex-prince of the <HI REND="italics">Burschen</HI>
094.sgm: brought his destructive talent to bear on the matter from rather a different point of view.  Was there again too much enthusiasm, too much of the transcendental?--a fair-haired cynic from New England touched the paragraph here and there with the point of his dry humour: it collapsed like a sensitive snail.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>As to the handful of students engaged in this work, their position was somewhat peculiar, isolated as they were by many thousand miles from outer help or sympathy.  The mildest popular local theory about them was that they were touched with some harmless craze.  They were by no means a Bohemia, at least in any ordinary sense of the word.  That would involve, as contrasted with them, a recognised society of solidarity and influence; but such a thing can hardly be said to have existed.  We are afraid that these young men were given to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:making a society of themselves--of mutual admiration, possibly--and given to speaking collectively, in a kind of Louis Quartorze style:  <HI REND="italics">La socie&acute;te&acute; c'est moi</HI>
094.sgm:!  Perhaps their faults were not without provocation: where everybody was everybody's equal and slapped everybody on the back, it was impossible that strangers should not require some time to get their backs and hands familiarised with the new conditions of life.  We think, after all, they did their best to meet all real kindness and civility more than half way, and to avoid as far as possible the giving or taking of offence; and the many warm friendships they were happy enough to make are evidence that their good intentions were not on the whole misunderstood.  They had a little <HI REND="italics">salon</HI>
094.sgm: of their own, with its keen glad nights of conversation.  There was Mr. Bancroft dropping his hooked words gently, at intervals, till his prey of debate was caught, then dragging it in with a deceitful mixture of meekness and strength.  Then there was Mr. Harcourt, an Englishman, as eager as Mr. Bancroft was patient, a very berserkr of argument, flinging himself as with the sound of a war-horn upon his enemy, recoiling, changing his attack, raining his blows upon every limb till <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Those were happy days; the disagreeable no doubt constantly presented itself, but it was instantly grappled with, strangled, trodden under foot.  Nothing but the pleasant lives in the memory, so long as one is thoroughly in good health.  The rest is forgotten, till a day comes when it is nearly impossible to separate the past that was not from the past that was.  That beautiful deceitful past! that lied of the future when it was with us, that lies of itself when it is no longer with us--but doubly sweet, because doubly false.  For after all there were dark days in it, days of utter lassitude of mind and body, days of intense discouragement, days when the struggle with Dryasdust (and oh, ye pitiful gods! with the Spanish Dryasdust!) seemed too much for mortal man--and worse, there were days when petty jealousies and petty disputes divided the little band <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Mr. Harcourt and the present writer were, in addition to their work with Mr. Bancroft, associated as the editors of a magazine, "The Overland Monthly."  Of Mr. Harcourt we cannot be trusted to say anything, yet we may be permitted to refer in an unprejudiced way to some of our contributors, certain in advance that they will trust to our discretion and even pardon a possible indiscretion.  There are men and women here and there all over California of remarkable mental ability, both of the crude sort and of that developed by education.  Not to speak of President Gilman (now of Baltimore), and President Le Comte, and the remaining professors and officers of the Berkeley, or State, University, and the members of the Berkeley Club, and of the Bohemian Club, to whose scholarship and society we owe many a pleasant evening, there are waifs and strays of genius away in rude mining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>There is Mr. J-- R--, an ex-student of the State University, now studying in Germany; his capacities for work, thought, and exact expression are remarkable, considering his youth.  There is another very young man, almost a boy, Mr. C-- S--, a poet and the teacher of a village school.  This is a hard world for poets everywhere, and especially in California, but this one, if he endures his passion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:well, and reads his eyes out, and works his heart out, may come to something.  There is a young girl, Miss E-- F-- D--, a copyist in a lawyer's office, who was a perpetual surprise by the extent of her reading, by her precocious instinct in the delineation of character, and by what is still rarer, a balanced reserve of power in finishing her sketches with the fewest possible touches.  We are not given to throwing adjectives round in a reckless way, and we have not faith enough in genius to move a grain of sand as apart from the ceaseless training and effort needed to develop it; but we believe that all the four persons we have mentioned (and one other whom we shall mention immediately) are something more than clever, and that it is from some of them that the next creditableaddition to Californian literature, not historical, must be expected--if any such addition is to be expected during this generation.  But they must first comprehend and believe, with all their heart and soul and strength, these warning words of Mr. Browning, which for their sake we copy out at length:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Write books, paint pictures, or make music--since<LB>Your nature leans to such life-exercise!<LB>Ay, but such exercise begins too soon,<LB>Concludes too late, demands life whole and sole,</HI>
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094.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Artistry being battle with the age<LB>It lives in ! Half life,--silence, while you learn<LB>What has been done; the other half,--attempt<LB>At speech, amid world's wail of wonderment:<LB>"Here's something done was never done before!"<LB>To be the very breath that moves the age,<LB>Means not to have breath drive you bubble-like<LB>Before it--but yourself to blow: that's strain;<LB>Strain's worry through the life-time, till there's peace;<LB>We know where peace expects the artist-soul.</HI>
094.sgm:<P>The name we think it necessary to add to the preceding four is that of Mr. John Gally, a Virginian by birth, and a not unsuccessful mine-owner, but who has after all dug more out of books than he has out of Nevada--a man of wonderful insight into character, and of a humour deliciously quaint, but somewhat too fine in the edge to divide the whetstone on which he has to operate.  A few paragraphs from his pen, by no means in his best manner, are to be found in a preceding chapter of this work.</P>
094.sgm:<P>We reserve any detailed criticism of the recognised leaders of what may be called the Western School of Writers for one chapter of a possible future work.  Exceptional reasons have produced a solidarity in Anglo-American literature, which Anglo-American society has not.  This literature as a whole, and in all its modifications, as a product <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:and as a power, deserves a serious comparative study from the point of view of the wider world and the older literatures.  Many things have tended and still tend to repress it in its higher branches; particularly the fact of having to compete with imported books not paid for, and therefore sold at a price against which the native writer cannot ordinarily strive and live.  In the language of <HI REND="italics">The Baltimore Gazette,</HI>
094.sgm: as quoted with approval by <HI REND="italics">The New York Tribune</HI>
094.sgm: of September 25th, 1875, the books of the foreign author "are seized upon by publishers and sold all over the United States without giving him (the author) any compensation, and without his being able under the law to obtain any redress.  He has no right, copyright or other, in his own production."  We have no desire to follow Mr. Charles Reade in the strong language he has been provoked to use in this connection.  Publishers are after all only men like the rest of us, and the best of men often yield to the temptation of merging equity in law, especially when their neighbours in business do so, and when it might appear that an act of justice on the part of one would be undone by the rapacity of another.  It is not then on the publishers but on such patriots of the Great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:Republic as retain a capacity for blushing that we venture to urge, firstly, the wrongs inflicted by their present system on native authors; and, secondly, the sad statement of Mr. Rufus W. Griswold, that "This legalised piracy, supported by some sordid and base arguments, inspires a prevailing contempt for our plain Republican forms and institutions."  We assure these good citizens that, rightly or wrongly, the people of "the effete civilisations" of Europe have some most inveterate prejudices about <HI REND="italics">meum et tuum</HI>
094.sgm:<P>To return to Western literature, and dismiss it for the present with a few words.  Mr. Bret Harte, Mark Twain (Mr. Clemens), and Mr. Joaquin Miller, are, in three broadly different styles, identified with certain veins of humour and sentiment, in many respects novel and interesting; but these authors used their "Great West" very much as a subject for dissection, or rather vivisection; and, their studies completed, they closed their note-books, wiped their scalpels, and left the dissecting-room.  They sought and found their appreciative public, their paying audience, in the eastern United States and in Europe.  It is to be presumed their choice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>What effect the physical climate of California has or may have on literary instincts and literary effort, it would be premature to say or to predict from the present data.  Its general pleasant Laodicean equability, summer and winter through, may tend to a monotony of tension unfavourable to that class of poetic mind developed in and fed by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:fierce extremes of storm and utter calm, of fervent summers and frosts like those of Niflheimr.  It is generally agreed, however, that the mildness of the Greek climate had much to do with the "sweet reasonableness" of Hellenic culture, and it is usual to find a more rugged and less artistic spirit in the muses of the Norse zone, while the heavy lilies and languors of the tropics are doubtfully productive of anything spiritually interesting.  Indulging in this somewhat fanciful kind of reasoning, one might be even tempted to follow the vaticinal reveries of Mr. Bayard Taylor, and see in vision the Golden State reproducing the glories of Hellas, becoming an <HI REND="italics">alma mater</HI>
094.sgm: of the nations-- <HI REND="italics">The News Letter</HI>
094.sgm: condemned for impiety, and Mr. Frederick Marriott "looking towards" his disciples, and pausing, as he lifts his last "cocktail" (with hemlock), to devote his flying machine to &aelig;sculapius--Colonel Roach encamped with his entire regiment under the helmet of Leonidas, and combing his long hair straight as he waits the hour of battle--while Phidias, on Telegraph Hill, under the direction of a committee of the Mechanics' Institute, erects an Athena, the staff of whose spear shall be just as many Big Trees jointed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>As to the effect of the social climate of the State on literary aspiration and effort, little that is favourable can be said for the present, possibly little that is unfavourable should be feared for the future.  California the elder is a <HI REND="italics">parvenu</HI>
094.sgm:, making money, fighting his way into society, having neither time nor taste for studying anything but stock and crop reports, with it may be an occasional work of flagrant humour.  It is his heir--once or twice removed perhaps--it is for California the younger, to be a person of education and wear "literary frills."  For the present a taste in that direction is simply not understood; though it is tolerated as is the worship of a Chinese Joss.  The orthodox deity is one whose rumination is not carried on in his brain, but lower down--a grand calf, before whose golden image lie shattered at once the decalogue of the heart and the decalogue of the head.  It was not without a reason in the fitness of things that once on a time the San Francisco mint turned out a number of coins which, by the mistake or by the practical joke of a workman, had an extra letter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:engraved, and wore this inscription:  "In G <HI REND="italics">ol</HI>
094.sgm:<P>The poetic and spiritual is for the present utterly crushed below the prosaic and material.  The highest point which has been reached by the literature which is purely Californian is a "History of Culture," by Mr. John S. Hittell--a writer who is editor of one of the oldest Californian newspapers, who is not only a Californian but a "pioneer," and to whose book on the "Resources of California" we have trusted above all other works on the subject, as being written by a man whom it would be silly even to suspect of minimising either the State with which he is identified, or the democratic institutions of which, in their extremist form, he is the constant advocate.  His ideas of "culture" are, perhaps, among the most extraordinary that have ever seen the light of a press not avowedly communistic.  As well as we can make out, "culture" is with Mr. Hittell simply "industrial art:" machinery is the master of man; philosophy, art, and science are important mainly as the handmaids of the kitchen and the workshop.  This "culture" would have all men levelled to its own stature, and it makes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:its plaint against "the other <HI REND="italics">servitude, perhaps nearly as galling, imposed by the advantages of education and official position</HI>
094.sgm:<P>In the meantime, a word from this apostle of "culture" on the place he assigns to spiritual genius in his industrial paradise:--"Scotland has taken, perhaps, more pride in Burns than in any other of her children, but his dissipated character unfitted him for any higher position than that of a gauger which he filled.  One man like James Watt has more valuable genius, and does more good to humanity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>"Scientific discovery," concludes our author, "is closely akin to mechanical invention, and both are infinitely beyond the rhetorical compositions of Plato and Bacon in their benefit to mankind."</P>
094.sgm:<P>Mr. Hittell may be right, though to prove it he might do worse than borrow something of the force and grace and correctness of form, at least, which belong to the rhetoric he despises, and though it might be also well for him, before speaking with authority, to dissipate an impression inevitable to one who has read him closely, that Mr. Hittell's ideas on the subject of Burns and Plato and Bacon and "rhetoric" are as vague as the ideas of Bacon and Plato and Burns about Mr. Hittell.  In the meantime we are inclined to believe, even setting the divine outside the question, that men become less brutish and more human exactly in proportion as they value the products of the poet's heart and the philosopher's head above the products of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>After all it is a choice between this kind of "rhetorical compositions" and that other kind delighted in by our editor of an influential newspaper--a kind that appeals to one knows not what if not to the lowest passions and prejudices of ignorant men--to the passions that burn libraries, destroy monuments, and assassinate hostages.  And though we be a despicable creature of "bloated prejudices," though we can lay no claim to the exceeding usefulness and glory of the horny-handed seraphs of the new heaven, yet even on "an equal rights' basis" our opinion should be worth something; and it is that the old-fashioned culture is a better thing for the souls, possibly for the bodies, of men (poor Plato <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
094.sgm:<P>PRO ARIS ET FOCIS.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>La envidia de los asnos de la Europa<LB>Por vuestro rebuznar y otras mil prendas<LB>Fuisteis siempre, lo sois, y en adelante<LB>Espero lo sereis.</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Elogio del Rebuzno</HI>
094.sgm:<P>It were better to have no opinion of God at all, than such an opinion as is unworthy of Him; for the one is unbelief, the other is contumely<HSEP>  And, as the contumely is greater towards God, so the danger is greater towards men.  Atheism leaves a man to sense, to philosophy, to natural piety, to laws, to reputation: all which may be guides to an outward moral virtue, though religion were not: but superstition dismounts all these, and erecteth an absolute monarchy in the minds of men<HSEP>  As it addeth deformity to an ape to be so like a man, so the similitude of superstition to religion makes it the more deformed.-- <HI REND="italics">Of Superstition</HI>
094.sgm:<P>For enthusiasm is little else than superstition put in motion, and is equally founded on a strong conviction of supernatural agency without any just conception of its nature.-- <HI REND="italics">Middle Ages</HI>
094.sgm:<P>A blind propagandism or a secret wretchedness penetrates into countless households, poisoning the peace of families, chilling the mutual confidence of husband and wife, adding immeasurably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:to the difficulties which every searcher into truth has to encounter, and diffusing far and wide intellectual timidity, disingennuousness, and hypocrisy.-- <HI REND="italics">History of European Morals</HI>
094.sgm:<P>There <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
094.sgm: one dangerous science for women--one which let them indeed beware how they profanely touch--that of theology.  Strange, and miserably strange, that while they are modest enough to doubt their powers, and pause at the threshold of sciences where every step is demonstrable and sure, they will plunge headlong, and without one thought of incompetency, into that science in which the greatest men have trembled, and the wisest erred.  Strange, that they will complacently and pridefully bind up whatever vice or folly there is in them, whatever arrogance, petulance, or blind incomprehensiveness, into one bitter bundle of consecrated myrrh.  Strange, in creatures born to be Love visible, that where they can know least, they will condemn first, and think to recommend themselves to their Master by scrambling up the steps of His judgment-throne to divide it with Him.  Most strange that they should think they were led by the Spirit of the Comforter into habits of mind which have become in them the unmixed elements of home discomfort; and that they dare to turn the household gods of Christianity into ugly idols of their own--spiritual dolls, for them to dress according to their caprice; and from which their husbands must turn away in grieved contempt, lest they should be shrieked at for breaking them.-- <HI REND="italics">Sesame and Lilies</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Parler beaucoup et dire peu, en imposer par un maintien grave et avantageux, se de&acute;rober aux regards pe&acute;ne&acute;trans, e&acute;taler a&grave; propos quelques connaissances superficielles, e&acute;chpper aux e&acute;claircissements par un silence de&acute;daig neux, tromper le vulgaire par des pro&circ;neurs ignorans ou inte&acute;resse&acute;s,....en voila&grave; plus qu'il n'en faut pour tromper les femmes et le peuple; et presque tout le monde est ou peuple ou femme.-- <HI REND="italics">Mes Pense&acute;es</HI>
094.sgm:, LA BEAUMELLE.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Pr&aelig;terea sanctum nihil est nec ab inguine tutum:<LB>Non matrona laris, non filia virgo....<LB>Horum si nihil est, aviam resupinat amici.<LB>Scire volunt secreta domus atque inde timeri.</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">">Sat.III</HI>
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094.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Had lights where better eyes were blind,<LB>As pigs are said to see the wind.<LB>Transformed all wives to Dalilahs,<LB>Whose husbands were not for the cause;<LB>And turn'd the men to ten-horn'd cattle,<LB>Because they went not out to battle.</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">">Hudibras</HI>
094.sgm:<P>From which account, it is manifest, that the Fanatic Rites of these Bacchanals cannot be imputed to Intoxications by Wine, but must needs have had a deeper Foundation.  What this was we may gather large Hints from certain circumstances in the Course of their Mysteries.  For, in the first Place, there was, in their Processions, an intire Mixture and Confusion of Sexes.-- <HI REND="italics">Mechanical Operation of the Spirit</HI>
094.sgm:<P>No tengais cuidado, tia: no hablare&acute; mas que de amores platonicos.</P>
094.sgm:<P>&iquest;Amores que?....</P>
094.sgm:<P>El amor platonico, contesto&acute; Rafael, es el que se encierra en una mirada, en un suspiro<HSEP></P>
094.sgm:<P>Es decir, repuso la marquesa, la vanguardia; pero ya sabes que el cuerpo del eje&acute;rcito viene detras.</P>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">La Gaviota</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Haussez les mains, Monsieur l'Abbe&acute;!</P>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sentimental Journey</HI>
094.sgm:, STERNE.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>To save a Mayd Saint George the Dragon slew;<LB>A pretty tale if all that's told be true;<LB>Most say there are no dragons, and 'tis sayd<LB>There was no George--pray heaven there was a Mayd!"</HI>
094.sgm:<P>ANONYMOUS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>We strike for the altar and the hearth.  We fight on the side of all saints against the dragon in his latest avatar; we fight for the church and the family against a form of fanaticism, or of something <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>The good Christian clergyman is a shepherd and no wandering mercenary; he has entered the sheepfold by the door, and not climbed over the fence; he is learned--otherwise without the sanction of a miracle he has no right to offer authoritatively any opinion on any subject on which learned men disagree; he is naturally meek and humble, so much so that he never boasts of it; and, above all, is no busybody in other men's matters or other men's families--no social sneak, no abbe&acute; of the back-stairs; in brief, there is such a beauty in his decent, quiet, reasonable life as renders unbearable that parody of it set up by the mountebank preacher, the religious quack, the Dr. Cantwell, the Mr. Stiggins, and all the rest of that noisome family.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Among the truest and best of our friends must ever stand the names of the Rev. J. K. McLean, the Rev. Mr. Hamilton, and the Rev. Mr. Moore of Oakland, cultivated, great-hearted, simple, pious gentlemen; it is not with reverence only, but with warm and grateful love, that their memory is here recalled.  But they and others will forgive the ingratitude <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:which passes over the good in the Californian religious world with the curt but most explicit statement that it exists, and exists to a large extent.  For we have a battle to fight in favour of religion against the camp-followers and traitors infesting its tents, which must cut short greetings and embraces.  After all, when it is said that a man's ways please the Lord, there is very little more to be said: happy, it has been written, is the nation whose history is uninteresting.  The apostles and prophets, even with the advantages under which they wrote, almost always found their eulogies exhaust themselves in a few verses, and were forced to pursue denunciations through innumerable chapters.  And we are not sure that there may not have been, even to them, a certain pleasure in the pathless woods of the wicked, a certain lonely rapture at the heart in sweeping like a simoon through the very greenest places of iniquity and hypocrisy.  We cannot but think that Job forgot all about Sabean and Chaldean raids, when, beginning with the sarcastic "No doubt ye are the people, and wisdom shall die with you," he cut at his insolent "comforters" one after the other; and when at last Bildad, wincing under the pitiless lash, groaned out, "Wherefore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Who imagines that Paul any longer felt that "thorn in the flesh" after justifiably taunting Ananias with ignorance?  "Thou whited wall" that "sittest there to judge me after the law, and commandest me to be smitten contrary to the law;" then, waiting to have his attention drawn to the astonishing fact that he was reviling a thronedand golden-plated pontiff, he begged his pardon with, in effect, the flattering explanation that he had mistaken him for some third-rate deputy official: "I wist not, brethren, that <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
094.sgm:<P>We devote this chapter to the condemnation of one of the most mischievous developments that religion, falsely so called, has ever taken, now becoming dangerous in the United States.  So long as the preachers of this particular school of blind and naked ignorance remain, like the books of M. Jules Verne, "terribly thrilling and absolutely harmless," it continues to be a form of spiritual quackery which neither interests us one way nor the other.  But when its esoteric doctrines and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:results of these doctrines take a practical malarial form, it is time to use a disinfectant.  The doctrines alluded to belong, we are happy to say, to no respectable church or sect--they are, in fact, utterly opposed to the sweet reasonableness of any form of real Christianity; and it is generally a characteristic of their preachers that they are unrestrained by the wholesome influence of any form of recognised church government.  Essentially ignorant and lawless men, they pretend to be, above all that, the specially called apostles of a faith independent of the conclusions of learned theology--of a Perfection, a Higher Life, a True Inwardness--in which the true outwardness and common morality of the old-fashioned Christianity of Christ has no place, or only a secondary place; and as this cannot be justified by the head, they appeal to the heart-- <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
094.sgm: to the general human heart, which is "desperately wicked and deceitful" (a thing that has never been "written" of the head), but to their own private heart, which they dare to assert is filled with a special and particular divine presence.  Now, perhaps of all forms of tropical lurid conceit there has never been anything to quite equal this: The conceit that an awful, infinite, sublime Spirit--the source, essence, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>Before going farther to discuss the reasonableness of such pretensions, and, above all, their practical results, it will be well to adopt some name by which these religious quacks may be known.  We cannot fairly identify them with any recognised sect or church.  We cannot say that they are precisely hypocrites or precisely fanatics.  The elements are so unpleasantly mixed up in them that Nature cannot stand up and decidedly affirm, This is a fool, or, This is a knave.  Our subject is the pharisee, with the open frailness of the publican; he is the publican, with the arrogance and self-satisfaction of the pharisee.  We must bring for the occasion a new word into the English language, a word which we hope will not be long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:needed, a word that will not necessarily involve the idea of conscious hypocrisy--a word that will involve the idea of a slightly delirious mystic, with a strong touch of sullen, obstinate, abusive obscurantism.  We know no word that goes so far to fulfil all those conditions as the German word <HI REND="italics">Mucker</HI>
094.sgm:<P>It is through the woman, by appeals to her loving and noble, but generally less reasonable nature, that the mucker tries to capture the family; and this lust of unlawful, abominable, quasi-ecclesiastical power, in its invasions of the family, has always been more dangerous to mankind than the lust of unlawful directly temporal power; for more or less implicity, and more or less completely, the former always includes the latter.  Can any man be familiar with the history of his race in ancient America, Asia, and Europe, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:without feeling, on approaching the mucker subject, some such creeping of the flesh as comes on at the slimy touch of a rattlesnake or a kraken.  Of all the means by which the many-headed old serpent succeeds in insinuating himself into the domestic circle, in leaving his trail upon the sacred hearth, the most diabolical, the most subtle, the most fatal, is by the confessional.  We do not altogether mean the abuse of a clumsy wooden box, with a subtle man within and a silly woman without; we mean generally any system by which any stranger, on any religious pretence, wins, or is put in a position to win, a dangerous power over any soul, by being allowed to familiarise himself with its secrets and emotions.  "Inquiry meeting" is the name for this kind of thing in the latest mucker vocabulary.  In such a meeting, often held open as late as midnight, nervous and credulous women are seated in an atmosphere "magnetic with mob madness."  To this poisoned atmosphere, where reason is nothing and contagious emotion everything, is joined not only the personal and particular inquisition of a male "inquirer," but a closer physical contact than the dividing partition of the old confessional-box permitted of.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:The divine essences that flared upon the pulpit-platform have reached the dew-point, condensed themselves, and descended upon the devotee in flesh and blood.  Sitting side by side, even hand in hand, with condensed glory, how wan to her wane husband, family, children--all this world's vanities!  The delirium that fed the rites of Astarte and Dionysius, that corrupted the Christian "love feasts" till they became as intolerable to Papal Rome as their prototypes had been to Pagan Rome--that fever, one and the same at root, but blossoming into pestilent fruits that vary with the age and place--that very miasm makes the midnight air heavy here under the rush of burning gas and the blaring of music, whose pulse and measure are as utterly sensuous and exciting as any to be heard in the dancing-garden or the music-hall.  Every mental sense is stupefied, every carnal sense is roused and appealed to, every device of the mesmerist is employed.  For they are playing a "Divina Commedia" here, with the heavenly scenes left out; thunder, brazen thunder, the thunder of Salmoneus, rolls on the thick air; lightnings of stage brimstone and lime glare out on the swooning senses.  Many a strong man of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:meagre mental development gives way; what is to be hoped for those who are flabby both in brain and brawn?  What hope is there of any uneducated or half-educated woman escaping absolute mental paralysis?  What hope is there of her being true in heart and soul to the husband who smiles at this tom-foolery, when the officiating mucker tells her, as we have heard him do, that she is "unequally yoked to an <HI REND="italics">unbeliever</HI>
094.sgm: "--that is to say, an unbeliever in <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
094.sgm:, in the great Panjandrum quack; but as the devotee believes, and is intended to believe, an unbeliever in God?  And this, this abomination of insolence and calumny, some women of nominal decency are not ashamed to bear with--this, which would be an unpardonable insolence coming from persons of approved culture and wisdom--this comes from men who are, for the most part, too ignorant and too contemptible to occupy a respectable place in any servants' hall.  These are the "good physicians," who feel at once the spiritual and the natural pulses of their fair patients; who, without the formality of an introduction to their patients, attempt on the first interview to draw out and establish the most intimate, the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:mysterious, the most sacred confidences on the most delicate and profound of all topics--confidences in which the husband, or father, or brother has no part, in which it is not intended or thought judicious that he should have a part unless he comes to believe--in the mucker.  The devotee is to "take leave in mind and sentiment" of "the fearful and unbelieving," of all those that are "without," of all those who are to "have their part in the lake which burneth with fire and brimstone" (we are copying word for word from our notes of a mucker meeting); she is to leave father and mother and cleave to her Stiggins.  And we speak within our knowledge when we say that, as a result of such blasphemous misapplication of Scripture, as a result of such immoral teaching, a wail goes up in America from thousands of parents and husbands, relegated in their own households to the position of a Merovingian king, while some unctuous stranger is ensconced at the hearth as a <HI REND="italics">maire du palais</HI>
094.sgm:.  The blood boils at the thought of happy homes made blank and bitter--and for whose sake?  What have these preaching mountebanks done to merit all this feminine devotion, adulation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:adoration?  Oh Figaro, Figaro!  <HI REND="italics">Ils se sont donne&acute; la peine de renai&circ;tre</HI>
094.sgm:<P>It is time we had done with all this.  The muckers have no good reason for continuing to exist.  We will not humour the itch for notoriety of any one of them by giving his name, nor shall we soil these pages by alluding, except in the most distant manner possible, to any of the--to all Americans--familiar abominations of the spiritual midden on which these quacks live and move and have their being.  Fortunately it is not necessary.  No special and particular illustration is necessary to support the axiom that ignorance and vulgarity are enough to disqualify any man or body of men for the supreme office of spiritual teacher.  We dare to say that nothing but much knowledge and an acquaintance with all approved tests of knowledge can justify anyone in pronouncing the condemnation to all eternity of his fellow-creatures for not believing thus or thus.  But a severity of judgment that might suit the mouths of reverent and grave pastors, whose age, whose training, whose position entitle them to respect, becomes, on the boisterous lips of the quack, merely presumption and insolence.  It is not necessarily a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:shame for anyone to be ignorant or ill-bred; it is no crime to be born with a brain as protoplasmic as an oyster's, or to have been brought up a boor among boors.  It has never pleased the All-Father to make men equal physically or mentally.  But it is either a folly or a crime for any man of less than or merely average intelligence and education to use truculent language before women and children as the teacher, the critic, the judge of the whole world, and that above all in matters of simply infinite delicacy, difficulty, and importance.  Such arrogance, however it may please the mob, can only be a cause of sorrow to the thoughtful and judicious; for it is an abuse of religion which inevitably tends to degrade and vulgarise every holy place which it invades.  Nothing can justify it. Not even what is called success; not even the power of moving, heating, swaying masses of people--of making them "feel good, feel happy, feel converted."  All this is no more, and is not generally half so much, as Gautama Buddha, as Mahomet, as Joseph Smith the Mormon, could bring forward in proof of his "divine mission." <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Si el sabio no aprueba, malo;<LB>Si el necio aplaude, peor.</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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094.sgm:<P>But there remains the final charge of the Old Guard of muckerism, the Guard that knows how to live with its brains out, but does not know how to surrender: "We are no more unlearned than the apostles, no lower socially than they were, or than the prophets."  Now to this line of reasoning there are one or two objections: it wants modesty; in general it wants truth; and in every case it keeps back at least a part of the truth, the particular part that destroys the parallel sought to be established.  For the apostles and prophets, as we are informed, did not call and appoint themselves to the offices they held; they rested their claims to authority as teachers where, in such cases as they were not men of commanding natural knowledge, it could only rest--on a supernatural commission.  Nor did they expect men to take their simple word for it that such an exceptional and miraculous state of affairs existed; they proceeded to <HI REND="italics">prove</HI>
094.sgm: it by words and deeds of exceptional and miraculous power, by inhuman gifts of prophecy, of healing, of hurting, and of tongues.  They knew that it would be insane to ask reasonable people to believe in a supernatural True Inwardness without the testimony of a supernatural Outwardness.  It might be, as Swift <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>To that great intellectual sphere of Rabelais, that divine sphere whose centre is everywhere and circumference nowhere, the muckers have given dimensions and a superficies; on this they have drawn a little Arctic Circle, which they call an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>One of our Issachar's burdens is spiritual, the other unfortunately is of the earth earthy, of the very &ggr;&eegr;&sfgr; &ogr;&mgr;&phgr;&agr;&lgr;&ogr;&sfgr;.  If it were not for this it would be no part of our business to interfere with him where he is still able to stand upon his feet and exact admiration--no part of our business to whisper among the bruised reeds that the appearance on his head is not a cloven tongue of inspiration but the sort of cloven tongue that adorned the head of Midas--or, worse, that popularly supposed to adorn the temples of a being here unmentionable.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Far, again, be it from us to object to the muckers being in love and pressing their suit in a decent way upon all persons of the other sex whom they may find "willin'" under natural conditions.  We might possibly admit that, as a general rule, all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:things are fair in love and war.  But even in war there are atrocities not permissible.  In war there are sacred a red cross and a white flag; and it is infamous that in love the shadow of the cross of Golgotha should be abused as if it were that of the garden-post of the Lampsakene, and the white robe of the saint made to do duty for the veil of the Prophet of Khorassan.  Not even the longest spoon makes it quite safe to sup with the mucker under such circumstances.  Madame de Warens and Die Vernon are both represented as singularly clear headed and independent; yet history and the fiction so often truer than history support each other in showing the dangerous power that may be exercised over even such women when not educated--the power that may be so exercised by the most repulsive men--by a successful De Tavel, by an unsuccessful Osbaldiston--if they only appear as moral instructors, and succeed in isolating their pupils and shutting out the light of the profane world.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Je ne suis point Tircis;<LB>Mais la nuit, dans l'ombre,<LB>Je vaux encore mon prix;<LB>Et quand il fait sombre<LB>Les plus beaux chats sont gris.</HI>
094.sgm:<P>On the whole, however, it is not among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>If this mania comes also upon the younger fair one, some man or other, her natural guardian, is almost always to blame.  Man likes the society of woman; woman likes to deal with man.  She prefers to buy even her earthly goods from a shop-man rather than a shop-girl.  And the garments of her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>But if impudence influenced choice, the knave would never be left unchosen.  Somebody asked somebody: "Have you the assurance of faith?"  "Sir," was the reply, "I have faith enough for myself, and you have assurance enough for the--for us both."  Assurance is the corner-stone of muckerism.  It used to be written that to His saints God would give a hidden manna and a white stone, "which no man knoweth saving he that receiveth it."  But the new evangelists of the Tartuffe-Love lace gospel have altered all that; they know all about the hidden manna.  They handle, sell, and warrant it with pert assurance.  They belong to an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>It is this radical incapacity for diffidence that leads these people to rush into temptation as if they were above the common frailties of our poor humanity.  Now, as a matter of fact, there is no good way of overcoming temptation for any healthy creature but that of keeping out of the way of temptation.  "Why hast Thou made me so feeble?" wailed Rousseau; but he was answered in his conscience: "I have made thee too feeble to get out of the pit, because I have made thee strong enough not to fall in."  The muckers throw themselves in; they habitually ignore the external restraints and decorum of worldly society.  Their way of "gushing" over, and all but embracing each other, even in their sedatest public meetings, reminds one of those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Many good men bear with these things, and with worse, not that they do not know of them, but that they dare not comprehend them.  And when one of the muckers is accused of any impropriety, his "brethren" can remove by faith an Alps of evidence, or can eat their way through it with the vinegar of their tears.  Their devotion to their criminals is grand, but it is not religion.  They skulk behind the bosses of a sacred shield; they abuse the privilege of sanctuary, as the most unworthy have in all ages abused it.</P>
094.sgm:<P>It is this which makes it so difficult and delicate a matter to attack these persons, and yet which makes it absolutely necessary that they should be attacked, at least, if we are still to respect the religion which they profane.</P>
094.sgm:<P>The abundance of the muckers in any place, and the favour in which they are held, will be found on examination a pretty exact inverse test of the morals, manners, and intellect of the locality.  We repeat, they are not amenable to the control of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>This reminds us that the inexhaustible Rabelais <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:has devoted the opening chapters of the fifth book of his delectable work to certain species of the genus mucker under the figure of the evil fowls above referred to by Friar John.  These Stymphalian creatures are, as a rule, "birds of passage" our historian tells us; though, like locusts, grasshoppers, and other visitations of providential displeasure, their origin cannot be in all cases accurately assigned either in time or place.  In the main, however, they come "part from a marvellously great country called Lackloafland, and part from another country, towards the west, called Loaferloadedland.  From these two sources every year flights of these birds take wing, leaving all, father and mother, friends and relatives."  Ordinarily, our authority goes on to say, "these waifs and estrays are forced to leave the paternal nest because they are good for nothing--are, in body or mind, indigest, mismade--a useless weight upon the earth."  Further, "the greatest numbers reach us from Lackloafland, an immense country.  For, the Lackwits inhabiting that place, fearing the sore suasion of hunger, and neither fit nor willing to do anything, nor to labour in any art or trade, nor to become <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Do they ever return to their own place, to their original estate, to the hedges and ditches where they were laid and hatched?  The answer is more than historical, it is prophetic.  "In early times very few did so.  But latterly, as a consequence of certain eclipses, and by virtue of the celestial constellations, quite a number have spread their wings and departed, to the great relief even of their fellows that remain, whose share of the good things of this life is thus increased.  And those that flew away have left their plumage behind, sticking among nettles and thorns."</P>
094.sgm:<P>As birds, of course our muckers sing; but their muse, if muse she may be called, is a somewhat caterwauling goddess, who has tasted neither of the springs of Helicon nor yet of the Quasir mead of Norse poetry; except it be of such drops of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Despite all that has gone before, it is now to be affirmed that the muckers have in many instances been useful.  Is God's hand shortened that it cannot bring good out of evil?  Is the Almighty weaker than Samson that He cannot take Him foxes, and send them out two and two, tail to tail, with a fire-brand between two tails?  And though we venture to think the position little honourable to the Lord's fire, yet, when we see occasionally the fields of the wicked take flame, we bow as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>In this chapter we have set our face like a flint against certain forms of adulterated religion.  And what then?  Are we enemies of any honest grocer because we denounce a pepper villainous with "devil's dust?" enemies of the apothecary because we denounce a balm, not of Gilead, and whose savour is not improved by the presence of the fly <HI REND="italics">cantharis</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Again, we have nowhere been guilty of the impertinence of writing for the instruction or reproof of women of the first rate, women of common sense, and at least fair education.  The writer would need to be a mucker to be silly enough or insolent enough for such an undertaking; it would be to render oneself worthy of taking up a position between that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>No: but everyone is not fair and wise and pure as you, my sweet lady; there are great, crawling, caterpillar masses of people swarming on this world tree that we inhabit, doomed never to receive wings, doomed to go for ever on their bellies, and at the best never to see farther than the point of the nose, and for the most part seeing nothing, but only feeling.  It is upon these in times past that quacks have waxed fat--it is upon these in all time to come that quacks will feed.  For, excess of poverty and excess of riches will always exist; and either tends to numb the intellect.  And where the intellect sleeps or is not, there the quack is.  We cannot abolish him, so careful for some good but mysterious end of her own is Nature of the type; but we can abolish here and there the single life.  If this book becomes the bane of any one quack in his capacity of quack, or if it succeeds in even limiting here and there the field of his pasture in America, or if it hinders our English people from opening new fields to him here in politics or in religion, the design of the writer will be fulfilled.</P>
094.sgm:<P>The political quack lives by appeals to all that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>We have done.  Unskilled in dealing with theories, unequal to the lofty reaches of the abstract, we have dealt with the concrete, with practice, with results.  We have not speculated much about trees; we have handled and tasted certain fruits.  To our taste, institutions which systematically and in detail make ignorance insolent, fill meanness with assurance and conceit, and make vulgarity proud of itself, are not good even for those whose faults they truckle to and whose littleness they flatter.  We have seen in politics baseness and mediocrity banded together.  In science, in literature, the superficialist, the sycophant, and the Yahoo drown the voice of the wise; and a people loving equality are of course forced to have it so.  There was but one word wanting--a word to sum up and crown all.  It has been at last said.  This chapter has called attention to it.  The circus-tent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Let us look again at that story in the Norse folklore of "The Giant who had no Heart in his Body."  A youth called Boots wished to release certain brethren of his whom this big troll kept in stony thraldom, and to win from his power a princess, whom the brute led a sad life of it.  But Boots found it was no use trying to do anything in the giant's own house.  Not only had the monster a terrible nose for "the smell of Christian blood," but a most callous hide.  And even if it were pierced, what good?  He had no heart in his body.  Still, even a troll has generally some sensitive point of some kind somewhere.  In a moment of weakness this one betrayed himself to the princess:  "`Far away in a lake lies an island; on that island stands a church; in that church is a well; in that well swims a duck; in that duck there is an egg; and in that egg there lies my heart--you darling!</P>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>"In the morning early, while it was still gray dawn, the giant strode off to the wood.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"`Yes, now I must set off too,' said Boots, `if I only knew how to find the way.'  He took a long, long farewell of the princess."</P>
094.sgm:<P>To-day he stands on an island--possibly the right one.  He holds something in his hand--possibly the right egg, the more that it is very thick in the shell.  Thick and hard, it hurts his fingers; he cannot hurt <HI REND="italics">it</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"Well?"</P>
094.sgm:<P>"The printer's devil, sir!"</P>
094.sgm:<P>Brothers, princess, suppose we try Gutenberg's Press?</P>
094.sgm:<P>CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS, CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS.</P>
094.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<DIV><AD><P>BEDFORD STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C.<LB><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
094.sgm: 1875.<LB>MACMILLAN &amp; CO.'S CATALOGUE <HI REND="italics">of Works in the Departments of History, Biography, Travels, Critical and Literary Essays, Politics, Political and Social Economy, Law, etc.; and Works connected with Language</HI>
094.sgm:<P>HISTORY, BIOGRAPHY, TRAVELS, &amp;c.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Arnold.--ESSAYS IN CRITICISM.  By MATTHEW ARNOLD, New Edition, with Additions.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:.<LB>CONTENTS:--" <HI REND="italics">The Function of Criticism at the Present Time;" "The Literary Influence of Academies;" "Maurice de Guerin;" "Eugenie de Guerin;" "Heinrich Heine;" "Pagan and Medi&aelig;val;" "Religious Sentiment;" "Joubert;" "Spinoza and the Bible;" "Marcus Aurelius</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Atkinson.--AN ART TOUR TO NORTHERN CAPITALS OF EUROPE, including Descriptions of the Towns, the Museums, and other Art Treasures of Copenhagen, Christiana, Stockholm, Abo, Helsingfors, Wiborg, St. Petersburg, Moscow, and Kief.  By J. BEAVINGTON ATKINSON.  8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Although the main purpose of the book is strictly kept in view, and we never forget for long that we are travelling with a student and connoisseur, Mr. Atkinson gives variety to his narrative by glimpses of scenery and brief allusions to history and manners which are always welcome when they occur, and are never wordy or overdone.  We have seldom met with a book in which what is principal and what is accessory have been kept in better proportion to each other</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Baker (Sir Samuel W.)--Works by Sir SAMUEL BAKER, Pacha, M.A., F.R.G.S.:--<LB>ISMAILI&die;A: A Narrative of the Expedition to Central Africa for the Suppression of the Slave Trade, organised by Ismail, Khedive of Egypt.  With Portraits, Maps, and fifty full-page Illustrations by ZWECKER and DURAND.  2 vols.  8vo.  36 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">A book which will be read with very great interest</HI>
094.sgm:."--TIMES.  " <HI REND="italics">Well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:."--PALL MALL GAZETTE.  " <HI REND="italics">These two splendid volumes add another thrilling chapter to the history of African adventure</HI>
094.sgm:."--DAILY NEWS.  " <HI REND="italics">Reads more like a romance....incomparably more entertaining than books of African travel usually are</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE ALBERT N'YANZA Great Basin of the Nile, and Exploration of the Nile Sources.  Fourth Edition.  Maps and Illustrations.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Charmingly written;" says the</HI>
094.sgm: SPECTATOR, " <HI REND="italics">full, as might be expected, of incident, and free from that wearisome reiteration of useless facts which is the drawback to almost all books of African travel</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE NILE TRIBUTARIES OF ABYSSINIA, and the Sword Hunters of the Hamran Arabs.  With Maps and Illustrations.  Fifth Edition.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: TIMES <HI REND="italics">says: "It adds much to our information respecting Egyptian Abyssinia and the different races that spread over it.  It contains, moreover, some notable instances of English daring and enterprising skill; it abounds in animated tales of exploits dear to the heart of the British sportsman; and it will attract even the least studious reader, as the author tells a story well, and can describe nature with uncommon power</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Baring-Gould (Rev. S., M.A.)--LEGENDS OF OLD TESTAMENT CHARACTERS, from the Talmud and other sources.  By the Rev. S. BARING-GOULD, M.A., Author of "Curious Myths of the Middle Ages," "The Origin and Development of Religious Belief," "In Exitu Israel," &amp;c.  In Two Vols.  Crown 8vo.  16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">These volumes contain much that is very strange, and, to the ordinary English reader, very novel</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Barker (Lady).--STATION LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.  By LADY BARKER.  Third Edition.  Globe 8vo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">We have never read a more truthful or a pleasanter little book</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Bathgate.--COLONIAL EXPERIENCES; or, Sketches of People and Places in the Province of Otago, New Zealand.  By ALEXANDER BATHGATE. Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Blackburne.--BIOGRAPHY OF THE RIGHT HON. FRANCIS BLACKBURNE, Late Lord Chancellor of Ireland.  Chiefly in connexion with his Public and Political Career.  By his Son, EDWARD BLACKBURNE, Q.C. With Portrait Engraved by JEENS.  8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Blanford (W. T.)--GEOLOGY AND ZOOLOGY OF ABYSSINIA.  By W. T. BLANFORD.  8vo.  21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This work contains an account of the Geological and Zoological Observations made by the author in Abyssinia, when accompanying the British Army on its march to Magdala and back in</HI>
094.sgm: 1868, <HI REND="italics">and during a short journey in Northern Abyssinia, after the departure of the troops.  With Coloured Illustrations and Geological Map</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Brimley.--ESSAYS BY THE LATE GEORGE BRIMLEY, M.A.  Edited by the Rev. W. G. CLARK, M.A.  With Portrait, Cheaper Edition.  Fcap.  8vo.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Bryce.--THE HOLY ROMAN EMPIRE.  By JAMES BRYCE, D.C.L., Regius Professor of Civil Law, Oxford.  Fourth Edition Revised and Enlarged. Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This edition contains a supplementary chapter giving a brief sketch of the rise of Prussia, and of the state of Germany under the Confederation which expired in</HI>
094.sgm: 1866, <HI REND="italics">and of the steps whereby the German nation has regained its political unity in the new Empire.  "It exactly supplies a want: it affords a key to much which men read of in their books as isolated facts, but of which they have hitherto had no connected exposition set before them</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Burke.--EDMUND BURKE, a Historical Study.  By JOHN MORLEY, B.A., Oxon.  Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The style is terse and incisive, and brilliant with epigram and point.  Its sustained power of reasoning, its wide sweep of observation and reflection, its elevated ethical and social tone, stamp it as a work of high excellence</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Burrows.--WORTHIES OF ALL SOULS: Four Centuries of English History.  Illustrated from the College Archives.  By MONTAGU BURROWS, Chichele Professor of Modern History at Oxford, Fellow of All Souls.  8vo.  14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">A most amusing as well as a most instructive book</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Carstares.--WILLIAM CARSTARES: a Character and Career of the Revolutionary Epoch (1649--1715).  By ROBERT STORY, Minister of Rosneath.  8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">William had, however, one Scottish adviser who deserved and possessed more influence than any of the ostensible ministers.  This was Carstares, one of the most remarkable men of that age.  He united great scholastic attainments with great aptitude for civil business, and the firm faith and ardent zeal of a martyr, with the shrewdness and suppleness of a consummate politician.  In courage and fidelity he resembled Burnet; but he had what Burnet wanted, judgment, self-command, and a singular power of keeping secrets.  There was no post to which he might not have aspired if he had been a layman, or a priest of the Church of England</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Chatterton: A BIOGRAPHICAL STUDY.  By DANIEL WILSON, LL.D., Professor of History and English Literature in University College, Toronto.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: EXAMINER <HI REND="italics">thinks this "the most complete and the purest biography of the poet which has yet appeared</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Chatterton: A STORY OF THE YEAR 1770.  By Professor MASSON, LL.D.  Crown 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Cooper.--ATHEN&aelig; CANTABRIGIENSES.  By CHARLES HENRY COOPER, F.S.A., and THOMPSON COOPER, F.S.A. Vol. I. 8vo., 1500--85, 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:.; Vol. II., 1586--1609, 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Cox (G. V., M.A.)--RECOLLECTIONS OF OXFORD.  By G. V. COX, M.A., New College, late Esquire Bedel and Coroner in the University of Oxford.  <HI REND="italics">Cheaper Edition</HI>
094.sgm:.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">An amusing farrago of anecdote, and will pleasantly recall in many a country parsonage the memory of youthful days</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"Daily News."--THE DAILY NEWS CORRESPONDENCE of the War between Germany and France, 1870--I.  Edited with Notes and Comments.  New Edition.  Complete in One Volume.  With Maps and Plans.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Dilke.--GREATER BRITAIN.  A Record of Travel in English-speaking Countries during 1866-7.  (America, Australia, India.) By Sir CHARLES WENTWORTH DILKE, M.P.  Sixth Edition.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Many of the subjects discussed in these pages," says the</HI>
094.sgm: DAILY NEWS, " <HI REND="italics">are of the widest interest, and such as no man who cares for the future of his race and of the world can afford to treat with indifference</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Drummond of Hawthornden: THE STORY OF HIS LIFE AND WRITINGS.  By PROFESSOR MASSON.  With Portrait and Vignette engraved by C. H. JEENS.  Crown 8vo.  I0 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Around his hero, Professor Masson groups national and individual episodes and sketches of character, which are of the greatest interest, and which add to the value of a biographical work which we warmly recommend to the lovers of thoroughly healthy books</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Du&die;rer (Albrecht).--HISTORY OF THE LIFE OF ALBRECHT DU&die;RER, of Nu&die;rnberg.  With a Translation of his Letters and Journal, and some account of his Works.  By Mrs. CHARLES HEATON.  Royal 8vo. extra gilt.  31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Elliott.--LIFE OF HENRY VENN ELLIOTT, of Brighton.  By JOSIAH BATEMAN, M.A., Author of "Life of Daniel Wilson, Bishop of Calcutta," &amp;c.  With Portrait, engraved by JEENS.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  Third and Cheaper Edition, with Appendix.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">A very charming piece of religious biography; no one can read it without both pleasure and profit</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Elze.--ESSAYS ON SHAKESPEARE.  By Dr. KARL ELZE.  Translated with the Author's sanction by L. DORA SCHMITZ.  8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">A more desirable contribution to criticism has not recently been made</HI>
094.sgm:<P>European History, Narrated in a Series of Historical Selections from the best Authorities.  Edited and arranged by E. M. SEWELL and C. M. YONGE.  First Series, crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:.; Second Series, 1088-1228, crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">We know of scarcely anything," says the</HI>
094.sgm: GUARDIAN, <HI REND="italics">of this volume, "which is so likely to raise to a higher level the average standard of English education</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Faraday.--MICHAEL FARADAY.  By J. H. GLADSTONE Ph.D., F.R.S.  Second Edition, with Portrait engraved by JEENS from a photograph by J. WATKINS.  Crown 8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>PORTRAIT.  Artist's Proof.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>CONTENTS:-- <HI REND="italics">I.  The Story of his Life.  II. Study of his Character.  III.  Fruits of his Experience.  IV. His Method of Writing.  V. The Value of his Discoveries.--Supplementary Portraits.  Appendices:--List of Honorary Fellowships, etc</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Forbes.--LIFE AND LETTERS OF JAMES DAVID FORBES, F.R.S., late Principal of the United College in the University of St. Andrews.  By J. C. SHAIRP, LL.D., Principal of the United College in the University of St. Andrews; P. G. TAIT, M.A., Professor of Natural Philosophy in the University of Edinburgh; and A. ADAMS-REILLY, F.R.G.S.  8vo. with Portraits, Map, and Illustrations, 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Not only a biography that all should read, but a scientific treatise, without which the shelves of no physicist's library can be deemed complete</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Freeman.--Works by EDWARD A. FREEMAN, M.A., D.C.L.:--HISTORICAL ESSAYS.  By EDWARD FREEMAN, M.A., Hon. D.C.L., late Fellow of Trinity College, Oxford.  Second Edition.  8vo.  I0 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>CONTENTS:-- <HI REND="italics">I.  "The Mythical and Romantic Elements in Early English History;" II. "The Continuity of English History;" III. "The Relations between the Crowns of England and Scotland;" IV</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">"St. Thomas of Canterbury and his Biographers;" V.  "The Reign of Edward the Third;" VI.  "The Holy Roman Empire;" VII.  "The Franks and the Gauls;" VIII.  "The Early Sieges of Paris;" IX.  "Frederick the First, King of Italy;" X.  "The Emperor Frederick the Second;" XI.  "Charles the Bold;" XII.  "Presidential Government."--"All of them are well worth reading, and very agreeable to read.  He never touches a question without adding to our comprehension of it, without leaving the impression of an ample knowledge, a righteous purpose, a clear and powerful understanding</HI>
094.sgm:<P>A SECOND SERIES OF HISTORICAL ESSAYS.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The principal Essays are:--"Ancient Greece and Medi&aelig;val Italy:" "Mr. Gladstone's Homer and the Homeric Ages:" "The Historians of Athens:" "The Athenian Democracy:" "Alexander the Great:" "Greece during the Macedonian Period:" "Mommsen's History of Rome:" "Lucius Cornelius Sulla:" "The Flavian C&aelig;sars."</HI>
094.sgm:  HISTORY OF FEDERAL GOVERNMENT, from the Foundation of the Achaian League to the Disruption of the United States.  Vol. I.  General Introduction,  History of the Greek Federations.  8vo.  21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>OLD ENGLISH HISTORY.  With <HI REND="italics">Five Coloured Maps</HI>
094.sgm:.  Third Edition.  Extra fcap. 8vo., half-bound.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The book indeed is full of instruction and interest to students of all ages, and he must be a well-informed man indeed who will not rise from its perusal with clearer and more accurate ideas of a too much neglected portion of English history</HI>
094.sgm:<P>HISTORY OF THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF WELLS, as illustrating the History of the Cathedral Churches of the Old Foundation.  Crown 8vo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The history assumes in Mr. Freeman's hands a significance, and, we may add, a practical value as suggestive of what a cathedral ought to be, which make it well worthy of mention</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE GROWTH OF THE ENGLISH CONSTITUTION FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES.  Crown 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE UNITY OF HISTORY.  The "REDE" LECTURE delivered in the Senate House, before the University of Cambridge, on Friday, May 24th, 1872.  Crown 8vo.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>GENERAL SKETCH OF EUROPEAN HISTORY.  Being Vol. I. of a Historical Course for Schools edited by E. A. FREEMAN.  18mo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">It supplies the great want of a good foundation for historical teaching.  The scheme is an excellent one, and this instalment has been executed in a way that promises much for the volumes that are yet to appear</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Galileo.--THE PRIVATE LIFE OF GALILEO.  Compiled principally from his Correspondence and that of his eldest daughter, Sister Maria Celeste, Nun in the Franciscan Convent of S. Matthew in Arcetri.  With Portrait.  Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Gladstone (Right Hon. W. E., M.P.)--JUVENTUS MUNDI.  The Gods and Men of the Heroic Age.  Crown 8vo. cloth.  With Map.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Seldom," says the</HI>
094.sgm: ATHEN&aelig;UM, " <HI REND="italics">out of the great poems themselves, have these Divinities looked so majestic and respectable.  To read these brilliant details is like standing on the Olympian threshold and gazing at the ineffable brightness within</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Goethe and Mendelssohn (1821--1831).  Translated from the German of Dr. KARL MENDELSSOHN, Son of the Composer, by M. E. VON GLEHN.  From the Private Diaries and Home-Letters of Mendelssohn, with Poems and Letters of Goethe never before printed.  Also with two New and Original Portraits, Facsimiles, and Appendix of Twenty Letters hitherto unpublished.  Crown 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The volume is most welcome, giving us, as it does, vivid though brief glimpses of the famous musician as a boy, a youth, and a man.  But above all, it gives us a glowing picture of the boy Mendelssohn at Weimar in its golden days....Every page is full of interest, not merely to the musician, but to the general reader.  The book is a very charming one, on a topic of deep and lasting interest</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Goldsmid.--TELEGRAPH AND TRAVEL.  A Narrative of the Formation and Development of Telegraphic Communication between England and India, under the orders of Her Majesty's Government, with incidental Notices of the Countries traversed by the Lines.  By Colonel Sir FREDERIC GOLDSMID, C.B. K.C.S.I., late Director of the Government Indo-European Telegraph.  With numerous Illustrations and Maps.  8vo.  21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The second portion of the work, less historical, but more likely to attract the general reader, is composed of bright sketches from Persia, Russia, the Crimea, Tartary, and the Indian Peninsula; both sketches being illuminated by a profusion of delicate woodcuts, admirably drawn, and as admirably engraved....The merit of the work is a total absence of exaggeration, which does not, however, preclude a vividness and vigour of style not always characteristic of similar narratives</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Green.--A SHORT HISTORY OF THE ENGLISH PEOPLE.  By J. R. GREEN, M.A., Examiner in the School of Modern History, Oxford.  With Coloured Maps and Genealogical Tables.  Crown 8vo.  8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">To say that Mr. Green's book is better than those which have</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<HI REND="italics">preceded it, would be to convey a very inadequate impression of its merits.  It stands alone as the one general history of the country, for the sake of which all others, if young and old are wise, will be speedily and surely set aside.  It is perhaps the highest praise that can be given to it, that it is impossible to discover whether it was intended for the young or for the old.  The size and general look of the book, its vividness of narration, and its avoidance of abstruse argument, would place it among schoolbooks; but its fresh and original views, and its general historical power, are only to be appreciated by those who have tried their own hand at writing history, and who know the enormous difficulties of the task</HI>
094.sgm:."--MR. SAMUEL R. GARDINER <HI REND="italics">in the</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Hamerton.--Works by P. G. HAMERTON:--</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE INTELLECTUAL LIFE.  With a Portrait of Leonardo da Vinci, etched by LEOPOLD FLAMENG.  Crown 8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">We have read the whole book with great pleasure, and we can recommend it strongly to all who can appreciate grave reflections on a very important subject, excellently illustrated from the resources of a mind stored with much reading and much keen observation of real life</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THOUGHTS ABOUT ART.  New Edition, revised, with an Introduction.  Crown 8vo.  8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">A manual of sound and thorough criticism on art</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The book is full of thought, and worthy of attentive consideration</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Hole.--A GENEALOGICAL STEMMA OF THE KINGS OF ENGLAND AND FRANCE.  By the Rev. C. HOLE, M.A., Trinity College, Cambridge.  On Sheet, 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Hozier (H. M.)--Works by CAPTAIN HENRY M. HOZIER, late Assistant Military Secretary to Lord Napier of Magdala.</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE SEVEN WEEKS' WAR; Its Antecedents and Incidents.  <HI REND="italics">New and Cheaper Edition</HI>
094.sgm:.  With New Preface, Maps, and Plans.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">All that Mr. Hozier saw of the great events of the war--and he saw a large share of them--he describes in clear and vivid language</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE BRITISH EXPEDITION TO ABYSSINIA.  Compiled from Authentic Documents.  8vo.  9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">This," says the</HI>
094.sgm: SPECTATOR, " <HI REND="italics">will be</HI>
094.sgm: the <HI REND="italics">account of the Abyssinian Expedition for professional reference, if not for professional reading.  Its literary merits are really very great</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Hu&die;bner.--A RAMBLE ROUND THE WORLD IN 1871.  By M. LE BARON HU&die;BNER, formerly Ambassador and Minister.  Translated by LADY HERBERT.  2 vols.  8vo.  25 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">It is difficult to do ample justice to this pleasant narrative of travel....it does not contain a single dull paragraph</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Hughes.--MEMOIR OF A BROTHER.  By THOMAS HUGHES, M.P., Author of "Tom Brown's School Days."  With Portrait of GEORGE HUGHES, after WATTS.  Engraved by JEENS.  Crown 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The boy who can read this book without deriving from it some additional impulse towards honourable, manly, and independent conduct, has no good stuff in him</HI>
094.sgm:."--DAILY NEWS.  " <HI REND="italics">We have read it with the deepest gratification and with real admiration</HI>
094.sgm:."--STANDARD.  " <HI REND="italics">The biography throughout is replete with interest</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Hunt.--HISTORY OF ITALY.  By the Rev. W. HUNT, M.A.  Being the Fourth Volume of the Historical Course for Schools.  Edited by EDWARD A. FREEMAN, D.C.L.  18mo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Mr. Hunt gives us a most compact but very readable little book, containing in small compass a very complete outline of a complicated and perplexing subject.  It is a book which may be safely recommended to others besides schoolboys</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Huyshe (Captain G. L.)--THE RED RIVER EXPEDITION.  By Captain G. L. HUYSHE, Rifle Brigade, late on the Staff of Colonel Sir GARNET WOLSELEY.  With Maps.  Cheaper Edition.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: ATHEN&aelig;UM <HI REND="italics">calls it "an enduring authentic record of one of the most creditable achievements ever accomplished by the British Army</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Irving.--THE ANNALS OF OUR TIME.  A Diurnal of Events, Social and Political, Home and Foreign, from the Accession of Queen Victoria to the Peace of Versailles.  By JOSEPH IRVING.  <HI REND="italics">Third Edition</HI>
094.sgm:.  8vo. half-bound.  16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">We have before us a trusty and ready guide to the events of the past thirty years, available equally for the statesman, the politician, the public writer, and the general reader</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Jebb.--THE CHARACTERS OF THEOPHRASTUS.  An English Translation from a Revised Text.  With Introduction and Notes.  By R. C. JEBB, M.A., Fellow and Assistant Tutor of Trinity College, Cambridge, and Public Orator of the University.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Kingsley (Charles).--Works by the Rev. CHARLES KINGSLEY, M.A., Rector of Eversley and Canon of Westminster.  (For other Works by the same Author, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
094.sgm:<P>ON THE ANCIEN RE&acute;GIME as it existed on the Continent before the FRENCH REVOLUTION.  Three Lectures delivered at the Royal Institution.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>AT LAST: A CHRISTMAS in the WEST INDIES.  With nearly Fifty Illustrations.  Third and Cheaper Edition.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Mr. Kingsley's dream of forty years was at last fulfilled, when he started on a Christmas expedition to the West Indies, for the purpose of becoming personally acquainted with the scenes which he has so vividly described in "Westward Ho!"  These two volumes are the journal of his voyage.  Records of natural history, sketches of tropical landscape, chapters on education, views of society, all find their place.  "We can only say that Mr. Kingsley's account of a `Christmas in the West Indies' is in every way worthy to be classed among his happiest productions</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE ROMAN AND THE TEUTON.  A Series of Lectures delivered before the University of Cambridge.  8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>PLAYS AND PURITANS, and other Historical Essays.  With Portrait of Sir WALTER RALEIGH.  Crown 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">In addition to the Essay mentioned in the title, this volume contains other two--one on "Sir Walter Raleigh and his Time," and one on Froude's "History of England</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Kingsley (Henry, F.R.G.S.)--For other Works by same Author, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
094.sgm:<P>TALES OF OLD TRAVEL.  Re-narrated by HENRY KINGSLEY, F.R.G.S.  With <HI REND="italics">Eight Illustrations</HI>
094.sgm: by HUARD.  Fourth Edition.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">We know no better book for those who want knowledge or seek to refresh it.  As for the `sensational,' most novels are tame compared with these narratives</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Labouchere.--DIARY OF THE BESIEGED RESIDENT IN PARIS.  Reprinted from the <HI REND="italics">Daily News</HI>
094.sgm:, with several New Letters and Preface.  By HENRY LABOUCHERE.  <HI REND="italics">Third Edition</HI>
094.sgm:.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Laocoon.--Translated from the Text of Lessing, with Preface and Notes by the Right Hon. SIR ROBERT J. PHILLIMORE, D.C.L.  With Photographs.  8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Leonardo da Vinci and his Works.--Consisting of a Life of Leonardo Da Vinci, by MRS. CHARLES W. HEATON, Author of "Albrecht Du&die;rer of Nu&die;rnberg," &amp;c., an Essay on his Scientific and Literary Works by CHARLES CHRISTOPHER BLACK, M.A., and an account of his more important Paintings and Drawings.  Illustrated with Permanent Photographs.  Royal 8vo. cloth, extra gilt.  31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">A beautiful volume, both without and within.  Messrs. Macmillan</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<HI REND="italics">are conspicuous among publishers for the choice binding and printing of their books, and this is got up in their best style....No English publication that we know of has so thoroughly and attractively collected together all that is known of Leonardo</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Liechtenstein.--HOLLAND HOUSE.  By Princess MARIE LIECHTENSTEIN.  With Five Steel Engravings by C. H. JEENS, after Paintings by WATTS and other celebrated Artists, and numerous Illustrations drawn by Professor P. H. DELAMOTTE, and engraved on Wood by J. D. COOPER, W. PALMER, and JEWITT &amp; Co.  Third and Cheaper Edition.  Medium 8vo. cloth elegant.  I6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Also, an Edition containing, in addition to the above, about 40 Illustrations by the Woodbury-type process, and India Proofs of the Steel Engravings.  Two vols. medium 4to. half morocco elegant.  4 <HI REND="italics">l</HI>
094.sgm:. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">When every strictly just exception shall have been taken, she may be conscientiously congratulated by the most scrupulous critic on the production of a useful, agreeable, beautifully-illustrated, and attractive book</HI>
094.sgm:."--TIMES.  " <HI REND="italics">It would take up more room than we can spare to enumerate all the interesting suggestions and notes which are to be found in these volumes....The woodcuts are admirable, and some of the autographs are very interesting</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Macarthur.--HISTORY OF SCOTLAND.  By MARGARET MACARTHUR.  Being the Third Volume of the Historical Course for Schools, Edited by EDWARD A. FREEMAN, D.C.L.  18 mo. 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">It is an excellent summary, unimpeachable as to facts, and putting them in the clearest and most impartial light attainable</HI>
094.sgm:."--GUARDIAN.  " <HI REND="italics">No previous History of Scotland of the same bulk is anything like so trustworthy, or deserves to be so extensively used as a text-book</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Macmillan (Rev. Hugh).--For other Works by same Author, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
094.sgm:<P>HOLIDAYS ON HIGH LANDS; or Rambles and Incidents in search of Alpine Plants.  Second Edition, revised and enlarged.  Globe 8vo. cloth.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Botanical knowledge is blended with a love of nature, a pious enthusiasm, and a rich felicity of diction not to be met with in any works of kindred character, if we except those of Hugh Miller</HI>
094.sgm:."--TELEGRAPH.  " <HI REND="italics">Mr. M.'s glowing pictures of Scandinavian scenery</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Mahaffy.--SOCIAL LIFE IN GREECE FROM HOMER TO MENANDER.  By the Rev. J. P. MAHAFFY, M.A., Fellow of Trinity College, Dublin.  Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">No omission greatly detracts from the merits of a book so fresh in its thought and so independent in its criticism</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Martineau.--BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, 1852--1868.  By HARRIET MARTINEAU.  Third and Cheaper Edition, with New Preface.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Miss Martineau's large literary powers and her fine intellectual training make these little sketches more instructive, and constitute them more genuinely works of art, than many more ambitious and diffuse biographies</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Masson (David).--For other Works by same Author, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
094.sgm:<P>LIFE OF JOHN MILTON.  Narrated in connection with the Political, Ecclesiastical, and Literary History of his Time.  By DAVID MASSON, M.A., LL.D., Professor of Rhetoric and English Literature in the University of Edinburgh.  Vols. I. to III. with Portraits, &pound;2 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:.  Vol. II., 1638--1643.  8vo. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:.  Vol. III. 1643--1649.  8vo. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This work is not only a Biography, but also a continuous Political, Ecclesiastical, and Literary History of England through Milton's whole time.</HI>
094.sgm:  CHATTERTON: A Story of the Year 1770.  By DAVID MASSON, LL.D., Professor of Rhetoric and English Literature in the University of Edinburgh.  Crown 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">One of this popular writer's best essays on the English poets</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE THREE DEVILS: Luther's, Goethe's, and Milton's; and other Essays.  Crown 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Maurice.--THE FRIENDSHIP OF BOOKS; AND OTHER LECTURES.  By the REV. F. D. MAURICE.  Edited with Preface, by THOMAS HUGHES, M.P.  Crown 8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The high, pure, sympathetic, and truly charitable nature of Mr. Maurice is delightfully visible throughout these lectures, which are excellently adapted to spread a love of literature amongst the people</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Mayor (J. E. B.)--WORKS edited by JOHN E. B. MAYOR, M.A., Kennedy Professor of Latin at Cambridge:--</P>
094.sgm:<P>CAMBRIDGE IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.  Part II.  Autobiography of Matthew Robinson.  Fcap. 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>LIFE OF BISHOP BEDELL.  By his SON.  Fcap. 8vo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Mendelssohn.--LETTERS AND RECOLLECTIONS.  By FERDINAND HILLER.  Translated by M. E. VON GLEHN.  With Portrait from a Drawing by KARL MU&die;LLER, never before published.  Second Edition.  Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">This is a very interesting addition to our knowledge of the great German composer.  It reveals him to us under a new light, as the warm-hearted comrade, the musician whose soul was in his work, and the home-loving, domestic man</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Merewether.--BY SEA AND BY LAND.  Being a Trip through Egypt, India, Ceylon, Australia, New Zealand, and America--all Round the World.  By HENRY ALWORTH MEREWETHER, one of Her Majesty's Counsel.  Crown 8vo.  8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">A most racy and entertaining account of a trip all round the world.  It is a book which, without professing to deal in description, gives the reader a most vivid impression of the places, persons, and things it treats of</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Michael Angelo Buonarroti; Sculptor, Painter, Architect.  The Story of his Life and Labours.  By C. C. BLACK, M.A.  Illustrated by 20 Permanent Photographs.  Royal 8vo. cloth elegant, 31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The story of Michael Angelo's life remains interesting whatever be the manner of telling it, and supported as it is by this beautiful series of photographs, the volume must take rank among the most splendid of Christmas books, fitted to serve and to outlive the season</HI>
094.sgm:."--PALL MALL GAZETTE.  " <HI REND="italics">Deserves to take a high place among the works of art of the year</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Mitford (A. B.)--TALES OF OLD JAPAN.  By A. B. MITFORD, Second Secretary to the British Legation in Japan.  With upwards of 30 Illustrations, drawn and cut on Wood by Japanese Artists.  New and Cheaper Edition.  Crown 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">These very original volumes will always be interesting as memorials of a most exceptional society, while regarded simply as tales, they are sparkling, sensational, and dramatic, and the originality of their ideas and the quaintness of their language give them a most captivating piquancy.  The illustrations are extremely interesting, and for the curious in such matters have a special and particular value</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Morison.--THE LIFE AND TIMES OF SAINT BERNARD, Abbot of Clairvaux.  By JAMES COTTER MORISON, M.A.  Cheaper Edition.  Crown 8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: PALL MALL GAZETTE <HI REND="italics">calls this "one of the best contributions in our literature towards a vivid, intelligent, and worthy knowledge of European interests and thoughts and feelings during the twelfth century.  A delightful and instructive volume, and one of the best products of the modern historic spirit</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Murray.--THE BALLADS AND SONGS OF SCOTLAND, IN VIEW OF THEIR INFLUENCE ON THE CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE.  By J. CLARK MURRAY, LL.D., Professor of Mental and Moral Philosophy in McGill College, Montreal.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Napoleon.--THE HISTORY OF NAPOLEON I.  By P. LANFREY.  A Translation with the sanction of the Author.  Vols. I. and II.  8vo. price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. each.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">Vol. III. in the Press</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: PALL MALL GAZETTE <HI REND="italics">says it is "one of the most striking</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<HI REND="italics">pieces of historical composition of which France has to boast," and the</HI>
094.sgm: SATURDAY REVIEW <HI REND="italics">calls it "an excellent translation of a work on every ground deserving to be translated.  It is unquestionably and immeasurably the best that has been produced.  It is in fact the only work to which we can turn for an accurate and trustworthy narrative of that extraordinary career....The book is the best and indeed the only trustworthy history of Napoleon which has been written</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Owens College Essays and Addresses.--By PROFESSORS AND LECTURERS OF OWENS COLLEGE, MANCHESTER.  Published in Commemoration of the Opening of the New College Buildings, October 7th, 1873.  8vo.  14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This volume contains papers by the Duke of Devonshire, K.G., F.R.S.; Professor Greenwood (Principal); Professor Roscoe, F.R.S.; Professor Balfour Stewart, F.R.S.; Professor Core; W. Boyd Dawkins, F.R.S.; Professor Reynolds; Professor Williamson, F.R.S.; Professor Gamgee; Professor Wilkins; Professor Theodores; Hermann Breymann; Professor Bryce, D.C.L.; Professor Fevons; and Professor Ward.</HI>
094.sgm: Palgrave (Sir F.)--HISTORY OF NORMANDY AND OF ENGLAND.  By Sir FRANCIS PALGRAVE, Deputy Keeper of Her Majesty's Public Records.  Completing the History to the Death of William Rufus.  Vols. II.--IV.  21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Palgrave (W. G.)--A NARRATIVE OF A YEAR'S JOURNEY THROUGH CENTRAL AND EASTERN ARABIA, 1862-3.  By WILLIAM GIFFORD PALGRAVE, late of the Eighth Regiment Bombay N.I.  Sixth Edition.  With Maps, Plans, and Portrait of Author, engraved on steel by Jeens.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">He has not only written one of the best books on the Arabs and one of the best books on Arabia, but he has done so in a manner that must command the respect no less than the admiration of his fellow-countrymen</HI>
094.sgm:<P>ESSAYS ON EASTERN QUESTIONS.  By W. GIFFORD PALGRAVE.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">These essays are full of anecdote and interest.  The book is decidedly a valuable addition to the stock of literature on which men must base their opinion of the difficult social and political problems suggested by the designs of Russia, the capacity of Mahometans for sovereignty, and the good government and retention of India</HI>
094.sgm:<P>ESSAYS ON ART.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Mulready--Dyce--Holman Hunt--Herbert--Poetry, Prose, and Sensationalism in Art--Sculpture in England--The Albert Cross, &amp;c</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Pater.--STUDIES IN THE HISTORY OF THE RENAISSANCE.  By WALTER H. PATER, M.A., Fellow of Brasenose College, Oxford.  Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: PALL MALL GAZETTE <HI REND="italics">says: "The book is very remarkable among contemporary books, not only for the finish and care with which its essays are severally written, but for the air of deliberate and polished form upon the whole</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Patteson.--LIFE AND LETTERS OF JOHN COLERIDGE PATTESON, D.D., Missionary Bishop of the Melanesian Islands.  By CHARLOTTE M. YONGE, Author of "The Heir of Redclyffe."  With Portraits after RICHMOND and from Photograph, engraved by JEENS.  With Map.  Fourth and Cheaper Edition.  Two Vols.  crown 8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Miss Yonge's work is in one respect a model biography.  It is made up almost entirely of Patteson's own letters.  Aware that he had left his home once and for all, his correspondence took the form of a diary, and as we read on we come to know the man, and to love him almost as if we had seen him</HI>
094.sgm:."--ATHEN&aelig;UM.  " <HI REND="italics">Such a life, with its grand lessons of unselfishness, is a blessing and an honour to the age in which it is lived; the biography cannot be studied without pleasure and profit, and indeed we should think little of the man who did not rise from the study of it better and wiser.  Neither the Church nor the nation which produces such sons need ever despair of its future</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Prichard.--THE ADMINISTRATION OF INDIA.  From 1859 to 1868.  The First Ten Years of Administration under the Crown.  By ILTUDUS THOMAS PRICHARD, Barrister-at-Law.  Two Vols.  Demy 8vo.  With Map.  21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">It is a work which every Englishman in India ought to add to his library</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Raphael.--RAPHAEL OF URBINO AND HIS FATHER GIOVANNI SANTI.  By J. D. PASSAVANT, formerly Director of the Museum at Frankfort.  With Twenty Permanent Photographs.  Royal 8vo.  Handsomely bound.  31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: SATURDAY REVIEW <HI REND="italics">says of them, "We have seen not a few elegant specimens of Mr. Woodbury's new process, but we have seen none that equal these</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Reynolds.--SIR JOSHUA REYNOLDS AS A PORTRAIT PAINTER.  AN ESSAY.  By J. CHURTON COLLINS, B.A.  Balliol College, Oxford.  Illustrated by a Series of Portraits of distinguished Beauties of the Court of George III.; reproduced in Autotype from Proof Impressions of the celebrated Engravings, by VALENTINE GREEN, THOMAS WATSON, F. R. SMITH, E. FISHER, and others.  Folio half-morocco.  &pound;5 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This volume contains twenty photographs, nearly all of which are full</HI>
094.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<HI REND="italics">length portraits.  They have been carefully selected from a long list, and will be found to contain some of the artist's most finished and celebrated works.  Where it is possible brief memoirs have been given.  The autotypes, which have been made as perfect as possible, will do something to supply the want created by the excessive rarity of the original engravings, and enable the public to possess, at a moderate price, twenty faithful representations of the choicest works of our greatest national painter</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Robinson (H. Crabb).--THE DIARY, REMINISCENCES, AND CORRESPONDENCE, OF HENRY CRABB ROBINSON, Barrister-at-Law.  Selected and Edited by THOMAS SADLER, Ph.D.  With Portrait.  Third and Cheaper Edition.  Two Vols.  Crown 8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: DAILY NEWS <HI REND="italics">says: "The two books which are most likely to survive change of literary taste, and to charm while instructing generation after generation, are the `Dairy' of Pepys and Boswell's `Life of Johnson.'  The day will come when to these many will add the `Diary of Henry Crabb Robinson.'  Excellences like those which render the personal revelations of Pepys and the observations of Boswell such pleasant reading abound in this work</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Rogers (James E. Thorold).--HISTORICAL GLEANINGS: A Series of Sketches.  Montague, Walpole, Adam Smith, Cobbett.  By Prof. ROGERS.  Crown 8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:.  Second Series.  Wiklif, Laud, Wilkes, and Horne Tooke.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Seeley (Professor).--LECTURES AND ESSAYS.  By J. R. SEELEY, M.A. Professor of Modern History in the University of Cambridge.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>CONTENTS:-- <HI REND="italics">Roman Imperialism</HI>
094.sgm:: 1.  <HI REND="italics">The Great Roman Revolution</HI>
094.sgm:; 2.  <HI REND="italics">The Proximate Cause of the Fall of the Roman Empire</HI>
094.sgm:; 3.  <HI REND="italics">The Later Empire.--Milton's Political Opinions--Milton's Poetry--Elementary Principles in Art--Liberal Education in Universities--English in Schools--The Church as a Teacher of Morality--The Teaching of Politics: an Inaugural Lecture delivered at Cambridge</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Sime.--HISTORY OF GERMANY.  By JAMES SIME, M.A.  18mo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">This is a remarkably clear and impressive History of Germany.  Its great events are wisely kept as central figures, and the smaller events are carefully kept not only subordinate and subservient, but most skilfully woven into the texture of the historical tapestry presented to the eye</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Somers (Robert).--THE SOUTHERN STATES SINCE THE WAR.  By ROBERT SOMERS.  With Map.  8vo.  9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Strangford.--EGYPTIAN SHRINES AND SYRIAN SEPULCHRES, including a Visit to Palmyra.  By EMILY A. BEAUFORT (Viscountess Strangford), Author of "The Eastern Shores of the Adriatic."  New Edition.  Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Tacitus.--THE HISTORY OF TACITUS.  Translated into English by A. J. CHURCH, M.A. and W. J. BRODRIBB, M.A.  With a Map and Notes.  New and Cheaper Edition, revised.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">">This work is characterised by the</HI>
094.sgm: SPECTATOR <HI REND="italics">as a "scholarly and faithful translation</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE AGRICOLA AND GERMANIA.  Translated into English by A. J. CHURCH, M.A. and W. J. BRODRIBB, M.A.  With Maps and Notes.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: ATHEN&aelig;UM <HI REND="italics">says of this work that it is "a version at once readable and exact, which may be perused with pleasure by all, and consulted with advantage by the classical student</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Thomas.--THE LIFE OF JOHN THOMAS, Surgeon of the "Earl of Oxford" East Indiaman, and First Baptist Missionary to Bengal.  By C. B. LEWIS, Baptist Missionary.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Thompson.--HISTORY OF ENGLAND.  By EDITH THOMPSON.  Being Vol. II. of the Historical Course for Schools, Edited by EDWARD A. FREEMAN, D.C.L.  Fourth Edition.  18mo.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Freedom from prejudice, simplicity of style, and accuracy of statement, are the characteristics of this volume.  It is a trustworthy text-book, and likely to be generally serviceable in schools</HI>
094.sgm:."--PALL MALL GAZETTE.  " <HI REND="italics">In its great accuracy and correctness of detail it stands far ahead of the general run of school manuals.  Its arrangement, too, is clear, and its style simple and straightforward</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Todhunter.--THE CONFLICT OF STUDIES; AND OTHER ESSAYS ON SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH EDUCATION.  By ISAAC TODHUNTER, M.A., F.R.S., late Fellow and Principal Mathematical Lecturer of St. John's College, Cambridge.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>CONTENTS:-- <HI REND="italics">I. The Conflict of Studies.  II. Competitive Examinations.  III. Private Study of Mathematics.  IV. Academical Reform.  V. Elementary Geometry.  VI. The Mathematical Tripos</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Trench (Archbishop).--For other Works by the same Author, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
094.sgm:<P>GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS IN GERMANY, and other Lectures on the Thirty Years' War.  By R. CHENEVIX TRENCH, D.D., Archbishop of Dublin.  Second Edition, revised and enlarged.  Fcap. 8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>PLUTARCH, HIS LIFE, HIS LIVES, AND HIS MORALS.  Five Lectures by RICHARD CHENEVIX TRENCH, D.D., Archbishop of Dublin.  Second Edition, enlarged.  Fcap. 8vo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: ATHEN&aelig;UM <HI REND="italics">speaks of it as "A little volume in which the amusing and the instructive are judiciously combined</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Trench (Mrs. R.)--REMAINS OF THE LATE MRS. RICHARD TRENCH.  Being Selections from her Journals, Letters, and other Papers.  Edited by ARCHBISHOP TRENCH.  New and Cheaper Issue, with Portrait.  8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Wallace.--THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO: the Land of the Orang Utan and the Bird of Paradise.  By ALFRED RUSSEL WALLACE.  A Narrative of Travel with Studies of Man and Nature.  With Maps and Illustrations.  Fifth Edition.  Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dr. Hooker, in his address to the British Association, spoke thus of the author:--"Of Mr. Wallace and his many contributions to philosophical biology it is not easy to speak without enthusiasm; for, putting aside their great merits, he, throughout his writings, with a modesty as rare as I believe it to be unconscious, forgets his own unquestioned claim to the honour of having originated, independently of Mr. Darwin, the theories which he so ably defends</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The result is a vivid picture of tropical life, which may be read with unflagging interest, and a sufficient account of his scientific conclusions to stimulate our appetite without wearying us by detail.  In short, we may safely say that we have never read a more agreeable book of its kind</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Waller.--SIX WEEKS IN THE SADDLE: A PAINTER'S JOURNAL IN ICELAND.  By S. E. WALLER.  With Illustrations by the Author.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">An exceedingly pleasant and naturally written little book....  Mr. Waller has a clever pencil, and the text is well illustrated with his own sketches</HI>
094.sgm:."--TIMES.  " <HI REND="italics">A very lively and readable book</HI>
094.sgm:."--ATHEN&aelig;UM.  " <HI REND="italics">A bright little book, admirably illustrated</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Ward (Professor).--THE HOUSE OF AUSTRIA IN THE THIRTY YEARS' WAR.  Two Lectures, with Notes and Illustrations.  By ADOLPHUS W. WARD, M.A., Professor of History in Owens College, Manchester.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">We have never read," says the</HI>
094.sgm: SATURDAY REVIEW, " <HI REND="italics">any lectures which bear more thoroughly the impress of one who has a true and vigorous grasp of the subject in hand</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Ward (J.)--EXPERIENCES OF A DIPLOMATIST.  Being recollections of Germany founded on Diaries kept during the years 1840--1870.  By JOHN WARD, C.B., late H.M. Minister-Resident to the Hanse Towns.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Warren.--AN ESSAY ON GREEK FEDERAL COINAGE.  By the Hon. J. LEICESTER WARREN, M.A.  8vo.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Wedgwood.--JOHN WESLEY AND THE EVANGELICAL REACTION of the Eighteenth Century.  By JULIA WEDGWOOD.  Crown 8vo.  8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">In style and intellectual power, in breadth of view and clearness of insight, Miss Wedgwood's book far surpasses all rivals</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Wilson.--A MEMOIR OF GEORGE WILSON, M.D., F.R.S.E., Regius Professor of Technology in the University of Edinburgh.  By his SISTER.  New Edition.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">An exquisite and touching portrait of a rare and beautiful spirit</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Wilson (Daniel, LL.D.)--Works by DANIEL WILSON, LL.D., Professor of History and English Literature in University College, Toronto:--</P>
094.sgm:<P>PREHISTORIC ANNALS OF SCOTLAND.  New Edition, with numerous Illustrations.  Two Vols. demy 8vo.  36 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">One of the most interesting, learned, and elegant works we have seen for a long time</HI>
094.sgm:<P>PREHISTORIC MAN.  New Edition, revised and partly re-written, with numerous Illustrations.  One vol. 8vo.  21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>CHATTERTON: A Biographical Study.  By DANIEL WILSON, LL.D., Professor of History and English Literature in University College, Toronto.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Wyatt (Sir M. Digby).--FINE ART: a Sketch of its History, Theory, Practice, and application to Industry.  A Course of Lectures delivered before the University of Cambridge.  By Sir M. DIGBY WYATT, M.A.  Slade Professor of Fine Art.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">An excellent handbook for the student of art</HI>
094.sgm:."--GRAPHIC.  " <HI REND="italics">The book abounds in valuable matter, and will therefore be read with pleasure and profit by lovers of art</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Yonge (Charlotte M.)--Works by CHARLOTTE M. YONGE, Author of "The Heir of Redclyffe," &amp;c. &amp;c.:--</P>
094.sgm:<P>A PARALLEL HISTORY OF FRANCE AND ENGLAND: consisting of Outlines and Dates.  Oblong 4to.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>CAMEOS FROM ENGLISH HISTORY.  From Rollo to Edward II.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  Second Edition, enlarged.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>A SECOND SERIES, THE WARS IN FRANCE.  Extra fcap.  8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Instead of dry details," says the</HI>
094.sgm: NONCONFORMIST, " <HI REND="italics">we have living pictures, faithful, vivid, and striking</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Young (Julian Charles, M.A.)--A MEMOIR OF CHARLES MAYNE YOUNG, Tragedian, with Extracts from his Son's Journal.  By JULIAN CHARLES YOUNG, M.A. Rector of Ilmington.  With Portraits and Sketches.  <HI REND="italics">New and Cheaper Edition</HI>
094.sgm:.  Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">In this budget of anecdotes, fables, and gossip, old and new, relative to Scott, Moore, Chalmers, Coleridge, Wordsworth, Croker, Mathews, the third and fourth Georges, Bowles, Beckford, Lockhart, Wellington, Peel, Louis Napoleon, D'Orsay, Dickens, Thackeray, Louis Blanc, Gibson, Constable, and Stanfield, etc. etc., the reader must be hard indeed to please who cannot find entertainment</HI>
094.sgm:<P>POLITICS, POLITICAL AND SOCIAL ECONOMY, LAW, AND KINDRED SUBJECTS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Baxter.--NATIONAL INCOME: The United Kingdom.  By R. DUDLEY BAXTER, M.A.  8vo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Bernard.--FOUR LECTURES ON SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH DIPLOMACY.  BY MONTAGUE BERNARD, M.A., Chichele Professor of International Law and Diplomacy, Oxford.  8vo.  9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Singularly interesting lectures, so able, clear, and attractive</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Bright (John, M.P.)--SPEECHES ON QUESTIONS OF PUBLIC POLICY.  By the Right Hon. JOHN BRIGHT, M.P.  Edited by Professor THOROLD ROGERS.  Author's Popular Edition.  Globe 8vo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Mr. Bright's speeches will always deserve to be studied, as an apprenticeship to popular and parliamentary oratory; they will form materials for the history of our time, and many brilliant passages, perhaps some entire speeches, will really become a part of the living literature of England</HI>
094.sgm:<P>LIBRARY EDITION.  Two Vols. 8vo.  With Portrait.  25 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Cairnes.--Works by J. E. CAIRNES, M.A., Emeritus Professor of Political Economy in University College, London.</P>
094.sgm:<P>ESSAYS IN POLITICAL ECONOMY, THEORETICAL and APPLIED.  By J. E. CAIRNES, M.A., Professor of Political Economy in University College, London.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The production of one of the ablest of living economists</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>POLITICAL ESSAYS.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: SATURDAY REVIEW <HI REND="italics">says, "We recently expressed our high admiration of the former volume; and the present one is no less remarkable for the qualities of clear statement, sound logic, and candid treatment of opponents which were conspicuous in its predecessor....We may safely say that none of Mr. Mill's many disciples is a worthier representative of the best qualities of their master than Professor Cairnes</HI>
094.sgm:<P>SOME LEADING PRINCIPLES OF POLITICAL ECONOMY NEWLY EXPOUNDED.  8vo.  14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>CONTENTS:-- <HI REND="italics">Part I. Value.  Part II. Labour and Capital.  Part III.  International Trade</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">A work which is perhaps the most valuable contribution to the science made since the publication, a quarter of a century since, of Mr. Mill's `Principles of Political Economy</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Christie.--THE BALLOT AND CORRUPTION AND EXPENDITURE AT ELECTIONS, a Collection of Essays and Addresses of different dates.  By W. D. CHRISTIE, C.B., formerly Her Majesty's Minister to the Argentine Confederation and to Brazil; Author of "Life of the First Earl of Shaftesbury."  Crown 8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Clarke.--EARLY ROMAN LAW.  THE REGAL PERIOD.  By E. C. CLARKE, M.A., of Lincoln's Inn, Barrister-at-Law, Lecturer in Law and Regius Professor of Civil Law at Cambridge.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Mr. Clarke has brought together a great mass of valuable matter in an accessible form</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Corfield (Professor W. H.)--A DIGEST OF FACTS RELATING TO THE TREATMENT AND UTILIZATION OF SEWAGE.  By W. H. CORFIELD, M.A., M.B., Professor of Hygiene and Public Health at University College, London.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Mr. Corfield's work is entitled to rank as a standard authority, no less than a convenient handbook, in all matters relating to sewage</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Fawcett.--Works by HENRY FAWCETT, M.A., M.P., Fellow of Trinity Hall, and Professor of Political Economy in the University of Cambridge:--</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE ECONOMIC POSITION OF THE BRITISH LABOURER.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>MANUAL OF POLITICAL ECONOMY.  Fourth Edition, with New Chapters on the Nationalization of the Land and Local Taxation.  Crown 8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: DAILY NEWS <HI REND="italics">says: "It forms one of the best introductions to the</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<HI REND="italics">principles of the science, and to its practical applications in the problems of modern, and especially of English, government and society</HI>
094.sgm:<P>PAUPERISM: ITS CAUSES AND REMEDIES.  Crown 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: ATHEN&aelig;UM <HI REND="italics">calls the work "a repertory of interesting and well-digested information</HI>
094.sgm:<P>SPEECHES ON SOME CURRENT POLITICAL QUESTIONS.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">They will help to educate, not perhaps, parties, but the educators of parties</HI>
094.sgm:<P>ESSAYS ON POLITICAL AND SOCIAL SUBJECTS.  By PROFESSOR FAWCETT, M.P., and MILLICENT GARRETT FAWCETT.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">They will all repay the perusal of the thinking reader</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Fawcett (Mrs.)--Works by MILLICENT GARRETT FAWCETT.</P>
094.sgm:<P>POLITICAL ECONOMY FOR BEGINNERS.  WITH QUESTIONS.  New Edition. 18mo.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
094.sgm: DAILY NEWS <HI REND="italics">calls it "clear, compact, and comprehensive;" and the</HI>
094.sgm: SPECTATOR <HI REND="italics">says, "Mrs. Fawcett's treatise is perfectly suited to its purpose</HI>
094.sgm:<P>TALES IN POLITICAL ECONOMY.  Crown 8vo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The idea is a good one, and it is quite wonderful what a mass of economic teaching the author manages to compress into a small space...The true doctrines of International Trade, Currency, and the ratio between Production and Population, are set before us and illustrated in a masterly manner</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Freeman (E. A.), M.A., D.C.L.--COMPARATIVE POLITICS.  Lectures at the Royal Institution, to which is added "The Unity of History," being the Rede Lecture delivered at Cambridge in 1872.  8vo.  14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">We find in Mr. Freeman's new volume the same sound, careful, comprehensive qualities which have long ago raised him to so high a place amongst historical writers.  For historical discipline, then, as well as historical information, Mr. Freeman's book is full of value</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Godkin (James).--THE LAND WAR IN IRELAND.  A History for the Times.  By JAMES GODKIN, Author of "Ireland and her Churches," late Irish Correspondent of the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
094.sgm:.  8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">There is probably no other account so compendious and so complete</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Goschen.--REPORTS AND SPEECHES ON LOCAL TAXATION.  By GEORGE J. GOSCHEN, M.P.  Royal 8vo.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The volume contains a vast mass of information of the highest value</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Guide to the Unprotected, in Every Day Matters Relating to Property and Income.  By a BANKER'S DAUGHTER.  Fourth Edition, Revised.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Many an unprotected female will bless the head which planned and the hand which compiled this admirable little manual....This book was very much wanted, and it could not have been better done</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Hill.--CHILDREN OF THE STATE.  THE TRAINING OF JUVENILE PAUPERS.  By FLORENCE HILL.  Extra fcap. 8vo. cloth.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Historicus.--LETTERS ON SOME QUESTIONS OF INTERNATIONAL LAW.  Reprinted from the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
094.sgm:, with considerable Additions.  8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:.  Also, ADDITIONAL LETTERS.  8vo.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Jevons.--Works by W. STANLEY JEVONS, M.A., Professor of Logic and Political Economy in Owens College, Manchester.  (For other Works by the same Author, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE COAL QUESTION: An Inquiry Concerning the Progress of the Nation, and the Probable Exhaustion of our Coal Mines.  Second Edition, revised.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The question of our supply of coal," says the</HI>
094.sgm: PALL MALL GAZETTE, " <HI REND="italics">becomes a question obviously of life or death....The whole case is stated with admirable clearness and cogency....We may regard his statements as unanswered and practically established</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE THEORY OF POLITICAL ECONOMY.  8vo.  9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Professor Jevons has done invaluable service by courageously claiming political economy to be strictly a branch of Applied Mathematics</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Macdonell.--THE LAND QUESTION, WITH SPECIAL REFERENCE TO ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.  By JOHN MACDONELL, Barrister-at-Law.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm: 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">His book ought to be on the table of every land reformer, and will be found to contain many interesting facts.  Mr. Macdonell may be congratulated on having made a most valuable contribution to the study of a question that cannot be examined from too many points</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Martin.--THE STATESMAN'S YEAR-BOOK: A Statistical and Historical Annual of the States of the Civilized World.  Handbook for Politicians and Merchants for the year 1875.  By FREDERICK MARTIN.  Twelfth Annual Publication.  Revised after Official Returns.  Crown 8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Statesman's Year-Book is the only work in the English language which furnishes a clear and concise account of the actual condition of all the States of Europe, the civilized countries of America, Asia, and Africa, and the British Colonies and Dependencies in all parts of the world.  The new issue of the work has been revised and corrected, on the basis of official reports received direct from the heads of the leading Governments of the world, in reply to letters sent to them by the Editor.  Through the valuable assistance thus given, it has been possible to collect an amount of information, political, statistical, and commercial, of the latest date, and of unimpeachable trustworthiness, such as no publication of the same kind has ever been able to furnish.  "As indispensable as Bradshaw</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Phillimore.--PRIVATE LAW AMONG THE ROMANS, from the Pandects.  By JOHN GEORGE PHILLIMORE, Q.C.  8vo. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Rogers.--COBDEN AND POLITICAL OPINION.  By J. E. THOROLD ROGERS.  8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Will be found most useful by politicians of every school, as it forms a sort of handbook to Cobden's teaching</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Smith.--Works by Professor GOLDWIN SMITH:--</P>
094.sgm:<P>A LETTER TO A WHIG MEMBER OF THE SOUTHERN INDEPENDENCE ASSOCIATION.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THREE ENGLISH STATESMEN: PYM, CROMWELL, PITT.  A Course of Lectures on the Political History of England.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  New and Cheaper Edition.  5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Social Duties Considered with Reference to the ORGANIZATION OF EFFORT IN WORKS OF BENEVOLENCE AND PUBLIC UTILITY.  By a MAN OF BUSINESS.  (WILLIAM RATHBONE.)  Fcap. 8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Stephen (C. E.)--THE SERVICE OF THE POOR; Being an Inquiry into the Reasons for and against the Establishment of Religious Sisterhoods for Charitable Purposes.  By CAROLINE EMILIA STEPHEN.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The ablest advocate of a better line of work in this direction than we have ever seen</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Thornton.--Works by W. T. THORNTON, C.B.:--</P>
094.sgm:<P>ON LABOUR: Its Wrongful Claims and Rightful Dues; Its Actual Present State and Possible Future.  Second Edition, revised.  8vo.  14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>A PLEA FOR PEASANT PROPRIETORS: With the Outlines of a Plan for their Establishment in Ireland.  New Edition, revised.  Crown 8vo.  7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>WORKS CONNECTED WITH THE SCIENCE OR THE HISTORY OF LANGUAGE.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Abbott.--A SHAKESPERIAN GRAMMAR: An Attempt to illustrate some of the Differences between Elizabethan and Modern English.  By the Rev. E. A. ABBOTT, M.A., Head Master of the City of London School.  For the Use of Schools.  New and Enlarged Edition.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Valuable not only as an aid to the critical study of Shakespeare, but as tending to familiarize the reader with Elizabethan English in general</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Besant.--STUDIES IN EARLY FRENCH POETRY.  By WALTER BESANT, M.A.  Crown 8vo.  8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Breymann.--A FRENCH GRAMMAR BASED ON PHILOLOGICAL PRINCIPLES.  By HERMANN BREYMANN, Ph.D., Lecturer on French Language and Literature at Owens College, Manchester.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">We dismiss the work with every feeling of satisfaction.  It cannot fail to be taken into use by all schools which endeavour to make the study of French a means towards the higher culture</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Hadley.--ESSAYS PHILOLOGICAL AND CRITICAL.  Selected from the Papers of JAMES HADLEY, LL.D., Professor of Greek in Yale College, &amp;c.  8vo.  16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Rarely have we read a book which gives us so high a conception of the writer's whole nature; the verdicts are clear and well-balanced, and there is not a line of unfair, or even unkindly criticism</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Hales.--LONGER ENGLISH POEMS.  With Notes, Philological and Explanatory, and an Introduction on the Teaching of English.  Chiefly for use in Schools.  Edited by J. W. HALES, M.A., late Fellow and Assistant Tutor of Christ's College, Cambridge; Lecturer in English Literature and Classical Composition at King's College School, London; &amp;c. &amp;c.  Third Edition.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Hare.--FRAGMENTS OF TWO ESSAYS IN ENGLISH PHILOLOGY.  By the late JULIUS CHARLES HARE, M.A., Archdeacn of Lewes.  8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Helfenstein (James).--A COMPARATIVE GRAMMAR OF THE TEUTONIC LANGUAGES: Being at the same time a Historical Grammar of the English Language, and comprising Gothic, Anglo-Saxon, Early English, Modern English, Icelandic (Old Norse), Danish, Swedish, Old High German, Middle High German, Modern German, Old Saxon, Old Frisian, and Dutch.  By JAMES HELFENSTEIN, Ph.D.  8vo.  18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Morris.--Works by the Rev. RICHARD MORRIS, LL.D., Member of the Council of the Philol. Soc., Lecturer on English Language and Literature in King's College School, Editor of "Specimens of Early English," etc., etc.</P>
094.sgm:<P>HISTORICAL OUTLINES OF ENGLISH ACCIDENCE, comprising Chapters on the History and Development of the Language, and on Word-formation.  Fourth Edition.  Fcap. 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>ELEMENTARY LESSONS IN HISTORICAL ENGLISH GRAMMAR, containing Accidence and Word-formation.  18mo.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Oliphant.--THE SOURCES OF STANDARD ENGLISH.  By T. L. KINGTON OLIPHANT, of Balliol College, Oxford.  Extra fcap. 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Mr. Oliphant's book is, to our mind, one of the ablest and most scholarly contributions to our standard English we have seen for many years</HI>
094.sgm:."--SCHOOL BOARD CHRONICLE.  " <HI REND="italics">The book comes nearer to a history of the English language than anything we have seen since such a history could be written, without confusion and contradictions</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Peile (John, M.A.)--AN INTRODUCTION TO GREEK AND LATIN ETYMOLOGY.  By JOHN PEILE, M.A., Fellow and Assistant Tutor of Christ's College, Cambridge, formerly Teacher of Sanskrit in the University of Cambridge.  New and revised Edition.  Crown 8vo.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The book may be accepted as a very valuable contribution to the science of language</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Philology.--THE JOURNAL OF SACRED AND CLASSICAL PHILOLOGY.  Four Vols. 8vo.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE JOURNAL OF PHILOLOGY.  New Series.  Edited by W. G. CLARK, M.A., JOHN E. B. MAYOR, M.A., and W. ALDIS WRIGHT, M.A.  Nos. I., II., III., and IV.  8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>Roby (H. J.)--A GRAMMAR OF THE LATIN LANGUAGE, FROM PLAUTUS TO SUETONIUS.  By HENRY JOHN ROBY, M.A., late Fellow of St. John's College, Cambridge.  In Two Parts.  Part I. containing:--Book I. Sounds.  Book II. Inflexions.  Book III.  Word Formation.  Appendices.  Second Edition.  Crown 8vo. 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:.  Part II.--Syntax, Prepositions, &amp;c.  Crown 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The book is marked by the clear and practical insight of a master in his art.  It is a book which would do honour to any country</HI>
094.sgm:."--ATHEN&aelig;UM.  " <HI REND="italics">Brings before the student in a methodical form the best results of modern philology bearing on the Latin language</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Taylor.--Works by the Rev. ISAAC TAYLOR, M.A.:--</P>
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094.sgm:<P>WORDS AND PLACES; or, Etymological Illustrations of History, Ethnology, and Geography.  By the Rev. ISAAC TAYLOR.  Third Edition, revised and compressed.  With Maps.  Globe 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">In this edition the work has been recast with the intention of fitting it for the use of students and general readers, rather than, as before, to appeal to the judgment of philologers</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Trench.--Works by R. CHENEVIX TRENCH, D.D., Archbishop of Dublin.  (For other Works by the same Author, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Archbishop Trench has done much to spread an interest in the history of our English tongue, and the</HI>
094.sgm: ATHEN&aelig;UM <HI REND="italics">says, "his sober judgment and sound sense are barriers against the misleading influence of arbitrary hypotheses</HI>
094.sgm:<P>SYNONYMS OF THE NEW TESTAMENT.  New Edition, enlarged.  8vo. cloth.  12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
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094.sgm:<P>ON THE STUDY OF WORDS.  Lectures Addressed (originally) to the Pupils at the Diocesan Training School, Winchester.  Fifteenth Edition, enlarged.  Fcap.  8vo. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
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094.sgm:<P>ENGLISH PAST AND PRESENT.  Eighth Edition, revised and improved.  Fcap. 8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
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094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>A SELECT GLOSSARY OF ENGLISH WORDS USED FORMERLY IN SENSES DIFFERENT FROM THEIR PRESENT.  Fourth Edition, Enlarged.  Fcap. 8vo.  4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>ON SOME DEFICIENCIES IN OUR ENGLISH DICTIONARIES: Being the substance of Two Papers read before the Philological Society.  Second Edition, revised and enlarged.  8vo.  3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>Whitney.--A COMPENDIOUS GERMAN GRAMMAR.  By W. D. WHITNEY, Professor of Sanskrit and Instructor in Modern Languages in Yale College.  Crown 8vo.  6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">After careful examination we are inclined to pronounce it the best grammar of modern language we have ever seen</HI>
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094.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Saturday Review</HI>
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094.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">">The following are now ready</HI>
094.sgm:<P>SHAKESPEARE'S COMPLETE WORKS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Edited by W. G. CLARK, M.A., and W. ALDIS WRIGHT, M.A.  With Glossary.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"A marvel of beauty, cheapness, and compactness....For the busy man, above all, for the working student, this is the best of all existing Shakespeares."-- <HI REND="italics">Athen&aelig;um</HI>
094.sgm:<P>MORTE D'ARTHUR.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Sir Thomas Malory's Book of King Arthur, and of his Noble Knights of the Round Table.  The Edition of Caxton, revised for Modern Use.  With an Introduction, Notes, and Glossary, by SIR EDWARD STRACHEY.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"It is with perfect confidence that we recommend this edition of the old romance to every class of readers."-- <HI REND="italics">Pall Mall Gazette</HI>
094.sgm:<P>BURNS'S COMPLETE WORKS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>The Poems, Songs, and Letters.  Edited, with Glossarial Index and Biographical Memoir, by ALEXANDER SMITH.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Admirable in all respects."-- <HI REND="italics">Spectator</HI>
094.sgm:<P>ROBINSON CRUSOE.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Edited after the Original Editions, with Biographical Introduction, by HENRY KINGSLEY.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"A most excellent, and, in every way, desirable edition."-- <HI REND="italics">Court Circular</HI>
094.sgm:<P>SCOTT'S POETICAL WORKS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>With Biographical and Critical Essay, by FRANCIS TUNER PALGRAVE.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"We can almost sympathise with a middle-aged grumbler, who, after reading Mr. Palgrave's Memoir and Introduction, should exclaim, `Why was there not such an edition of Scott when I was a schoolboy?'"-- <HI REND="italics">Guardian</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>GOLDSMITH'S MISCELLANEOUS WORKS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>With Biographical Introduction by Professor MASSON.</P>
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094.sgm:<P>SPENSER'S COMPLETE WORKS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Edited, with Glossary, by R. MORRIS, and Memoir, by J. W. HALES.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"Worthy--and higher praise it needs not--of the beautiful `Globe Series.'"-- <HI REND="italics">Daily News</HI>
094.sgm:<P>POPE'S POETICAL WORKS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Edited, with Notes and Introductory Memoir, by Professor WARD.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"The book is handsome and handy."-- <HI REND="italics">Athen&aelig;um</HI>
094.sgm:<P>DRYDEN'S POETICAL WORKS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Edited, with a Revised Text and Notes, by W. D. CHRISTIE, M.A., Trinity College, Cambridge.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"It is hardly possible that a better or more handy edition of this poet could be produced."-- <HI REND="italics">Athen&aelig;um</HI>
094.sgm:<P>COWPER'S POETICAL WORKS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Edited, with Notes and Biographical Introduction, by W. BENHAM, M.A., Professor of Modern History in Queen's College, London.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"An edition of permanent value.  Altogether a very excellent book."-- <HI REND="italics">Saturday Review</HI>
094.sgm:<P>VIRGIL'S WORKS.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Rendered into English Prose.  With Introductions, Notes, Analysis, and Index, by J. LONSDALE, M.A., and S. LEE, M.A.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"A more complete edition of Virgil in English it is scarcely possible to conceive than the scholarly work before us."-- <HI REND="italics">Globe</HI>
094.sgm:<P>HORACE.</P>
094.sgm:<P>Rendered into English Prose.  With Reviewing Analysis, Introduction, and Notes, by J. LONSDALE, M.A., and S. LEE, M.A.</P>
094.sgm:<P>"This charming version is the closest and most faithful of all renderings of Horace into English."-- <HI REND="italics">Record</HI>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>MACMILLAN'S GOLDEN TREASURY SERIES.<LB>Uniformly printed in 18mo., with Vignette Titles by SIR NOEL PATON, T. WOOLNER, W. HOLMAN HUNT, J. E. MILLAIS, ARTHUR HUGHES, &amp;c.  Engraved on Steel by JEENS.  Bound in extra cloth, 4s. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THE GOLDEN TREASURY OF THE BEST SONGS AND LYRICAL POEMS IN THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE.  Selected and arranged, with Notes, by FRANCIS TURNER PALGRAVE.</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE CHILDREN'S GARLAND FROM THE BEST POETS.  Selected and arranged by COVENTRY PATMORE.</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE BOOK OF PRAISE.  From the Best English Hymn Writers.  Selected and arranged by LORD SELBORNE.  A new and enlarged Edition.</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE FAIRY BOOK; the Best Popular Fairy Stories.  Selected and rendered anew by the Author of "John Halifax, Gentleman."</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE BALLAD BOOK;  A Selection of the Choicest British Ballads.  Edited by WILLIAM ALLINGHAM.</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE JEST BOOK.  The Choicest Anecdotes and Sayings.  Selected and arranged by MARK LEMON.</P>
094.sgm:<P>BACON'S ESSAYS AND COLOURS OF GOOD AND EVIL.  With Notes and Glossarial Index.  By W. ALDIS WRIGHT, M. A.</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE PILGRIM'S PROGRESS from this World to that which is to come.  By JOHN BUNYAN.</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE SUNDAY BOOK OF POETRY FOR THE YOUNG.  Selected and arranged by C. F. ALEXANDER.</P>
094.sgm:<P>A BOOK OF GOLDEN DEEDS of All Times and All Countries.  Gathered and narrated anew.  By the Author of "The Heir of Redclyffe."</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE POETICAL WORKS OF ROBERT BURNS.  Edited, with Biographical Memoir, Notes, and Glossary, by ALEXANDER SMITH.  Two Vols.</P>
094.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
094.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
094.sgm:<P>THE ADVENTURES OF ROBINSON CRUSOE.  Edited from the Original Edition by J. W. CLARK, M. A., Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge.</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE REPUBLIC OF PLATO.  Translated into English, with Notes by J. Ll. DAVIES, M. A. and D. J. VAUGHAN, M. A.</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE SONG BOOK.  Words and Tunes from the Best Poets and Musicians.  Selected and arranged by JOHN HULLAH, Professor of Vocal Music in King's College, London.</P>
094.sgm:<P>LA LYRE FRANCAISE.  Selected and arranged, with Notes, by GUSTAVE MASSON, French Master in Harrow School.</P>
094.sgm:<P>TOM BROWN'S SCHOOL DAYS.  BY AN OLD BOY.</P>
094.sgm:<P>A BOOK OF WORTHIES.  Gathered from the Old Histories and written anew by the Author of "The Heir of Redclyffe."</P>
094.sgm:<P>A BOOK OF GOLDEN THOUGHTS.  By HENRY ATTWELL, Knight of the Order of the Oak Crown.</P>
094.sgm:<P>GUESSES AT TRUTH.  By TWO BROTHERS.  New Edition.</P>
094.sgm:<P>THE CAVALIER AND HIS LADY.  Selections from the Works of the First Duke and Duchess of Newcastle.  With an Introductory Essay by EDWARD JENKINS, Author of "Ginx's Baby," &amp;c. 18mo. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
094.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
094.sgm:<P>THEOLOGIA GERMANICA.--Translated from the German, by SUSANNA WINKWORTH.  With a Preface by the REV. CHARLES KINGSLEY, and a Letter to the Translator by the CHEVALIER BUNSEN, D. D.</P>
094.sgm:<P>SCOTTISH SONG: A SELECTION OF THE CHOICEST LYRICS OF SCOTLAND.  Compiled and arranged with brief notes by MARY CARLYLE AITKEN.</P>
094.sgm:<P>MILTON'S POETICAL WORKS.  With Introductions, Notes, and Memoir by Professor MASSON.  With Two Portraits engraved by JEENS.  Two Vols.</P>
094.sgm:<P>MACMILLAN AND CO., LONDON.,</P>
095.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-095</TITLE>
095.sgm:<TITLE>My seventy years in California, 1857-1927, by J.A. Graves: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
095.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
095.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
095.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
095.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
095.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
095.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
095.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>28-2680</LCCN>
095.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
095.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 1018074</COPYRIGHT>
095.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>MY SEVENTY YEARS</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN CALIFORNIA</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>J. A. GRAVES</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>MY SEVENTY YEARS</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN CALIFORNIA</P>
095.sgm:<P>1857-1927</P>
095.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">By</HI>
095.sgm:<P>J. A. GRAVES</P>
095.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">President Farmers &amp; Merchants National</HI>
095.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Bank of Los Angeles</HI>
095.sgm:<P>Los Angeles</P>
095.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
095.sgm: TIMES-MIRROR <HI REND="italics">Press</HI>
095.sgm:<P>1927</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1927</P>
095.sgm:<P>BY J. A. GRAVES</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>LOVINGLY DEDICATED</P>
095.sgm:<P>TO MY WIFE</P>
095.sgm:<P>ALICE H. GRAVES</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>Time flies so swiftly, that I can hardly realize so many years have elapsed since I, a child five years of age, passed through the Golden Gate, to become a resident of California.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I have always enjoyed reading of the experiences of California pioneers, who came here either before or after I did.  The thought came to me, that possibly other people would enjoy an account of the experiences of my seventy years in the State, during which I participated in the occurrences of a very interesting period of the State's development.</P>
095.sgm:<P>As, during all of my life, to think has been to act, this is the only excuse or apology I can offer for this book.</P>
095.sgm:<P>J. A. GRAVES.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>I  FAMILY HISTORY.  MARYSVILLE IN 1857.  COL. JIM HOWARTH<HSEP>3<LB>II  MARYSVILLE BAR IN 1857.  JUDGE STEPHEN J. FIELD ITS LEADER.  GEN. GEO. N. ROWE.  PLACERVILLE BAR AN ABLE ONE<HSEP>13<LB>III  FARMING IN EARLY DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.  HOW WE LIVED.  DEMOCRATIC CELEBRATION AT MARYSVILLE DURING THE LINCOLN-MCCLELLAN CAMPAIGN<HSEP>25<LB>IV  SPORT WITH GREYHOUNDS.  MY FIRST AND LAST POKER GAME<HSEP>36<LB>V  MOVING FROM MARYSVILLE TO SAN MATEO COUNTY<HSEP>39<LB>VI  HOW WE LIVED IN SAN MATEO COUNTY<HSEP>43<LB>VII  BEGINNING OF MY EDUCATION<HSEP>46<LB>VIII  REV. BROTHER JUSTIN, PRESIDENT OF ST. MARY'S COLLEGE<HSEP>49<LB>IX  MY STORY: "SWEENEY--A CAMEL, A BUFFALO AND A COW"<HSEP>55<LB>X  SPENT MY VACATIONS AT HARD WORK.  GRADUATED FROM COLLEGE.  BEGAN THE STUDY OF LAW IN SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>67<LB>XI  THE SAN FRANCISCO BAR BETWEEN 1870-1880<HSEP>72<LB>XII  EXPERIENCES IN EASTMAN &amp; NEUMANN'S OFFICE.  COLLECTION OF $5,000 FEE IN CHINATOWN AT NIGHT TIME.  TRAPPING A PETTY THIEF.  REMOVAL TO LOS ANGELES IN 1875<HSEP>83</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>XIII  LOS ANGELES IN 1875.  TEMPLE &amp; WORKMAN BANK FAILURE.  RAILROAD HISTORY OF THE COUNTY, INCLUDING ELECTRIC LINES.  INTERVIEW BETWEEN HUNTINGTON AND HELLMAN<HSEP>96<LB>XIV  PEN PICTURE OF LOS ANGELES IN 1875.  BULLHEADS CAUGHT IN LAKE AT LAGUNA RANCH, AND WHAT HAPPENED TO THEM IN COOKING.  MY DOG, FLORA<HSEP>105<LB>XV  PRICES OF LOS ANGELES REAL ESTATE IN 1875.  RETURN OF C. E. THOM AFTER THE CIVIL WAR.  BUSINESS IMPROVEMENTS<HSEP>121<LB>XVI  TURNVEREIN HALL.  INGERSOLL'S LECTURE AT THE CHILDS' OPERA HOUSE.  LOS ANGELES CHURCHES.  LOS ANGELES BAR ASSOCIATION<HSEP>128<LB>XVII  THE PASSING OF THE DOMINANT RACE<HSEP>133<LB>XVIII  SPANISH AND MEXICAN LAND GRANTS IN LOS ANGELES COUNTY.  SAN FERNANDO RANCH LITIGATION.  WILL OF JOSE BARTOLOME TAPIA.  GRANT LITIGATION<HSEP>138<LB>XIX  STOCKGROWERS' CUSTOMS.  CHANGE FROM A PASTORAL TO A FARMING COMMUNITY.  FAMOUS PROPERTIES IN SAN GABRIEL VALLEY<HSEP>167<LB>XX  MODES OF AMUSEMENT IN 1875.  LUDOVICI'S PUNCH, AND WHAT CAME OF IT<HSEP>175<LB>XXI  THIS COUNTY A HUNTER'S PARADISE.  DUCK SHOOT IN 1877.  GUN CLUBS.  A DAY AT WESTMINSTER GUN CLUB<HSEP>188<LB>XXII  HUNTING INCIDENTS<HSEP>199<LB>XXIII  LARGE GAME.  HUNTING EXPERIENCES<HSEP>203<LB>XXIV  ANTELOPE HUNT IN 1876.  HUNTING TRIP IN NEVADA<HSEP>209 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<LB>XXV  PROFESSOR "LO"<HSEP>214<LB>XXVI  NATIVE CALIFORNIA SADDLE AND BRIDLE HORSES.  JACQUES FORGUES<HSEP>224<LB>XXVII  TWO BUGGY HORSES I OWNED.  "A ROMANCE OF THE WAR"<HSEP>229<LB>XXVIII  IMPORTING SOUTHERN SADDLE HORSES.  MY ONLY EXPERIENCE AS A RACE RIDER<HSEP>238<LB>XXIX  DEBT OF GRATITUDE OWING PIONEERS.  GEORGE CHAFFEY.  GEN. HARRISON GRAY OTIS<HSEP>246<LB>XXX  POLITICAL BOSSES IN LOS ANGELES.  EDITED A DEMOCRATIC CAMPAIGN SHEET<HSEP>251<LB>XXXI  STEPHEN M. WHITE.  WHITE AND J. S. CHAPMAN CONTRASTED<HSEP>260<LB>XXXII  CALIFORNIA'S ERRATIC POLITICAL RECORD<HSEP>264<LB>XXXIII  MY ADMISSION TO THE BAR.  FIRST PARTNERSHIP<HSEP>269<LB>XXXIV  PEOPLE VS. WONG CHEW SHUT<HSEP>275<LB>XXXV  DOWNFALL OF JAMES G. EASTMAN.  PRACTICING ON MY OWN ACCOUNT.  EARLY EXPERIENCES.  REMINISCENCES OF J. S. CHAPMAN.  ORGANIZATION OF THE FIRST ABSTRACT COMPANY<HSEP>282<LB>XXXVI  MY MARRIAGE.  FIRST HOME, THIRD AND BROADWAY.  REMOVAL TO SAN GABRIEL VALLEY<HSEP>297<LB>XXXVII  PARTNERSHIP WITH H. W. O'MELVENY.  FIRM OF GRAVES, O'MELVENY &amp; SHANKLAND RECEIVER BEAR VALLEY IRRIGATION DISTRICT.  DISSOLUTION OF FIRM JANUARY 1, 1904<HSEP>301<LB>XXXVIII  AMUSING INCIDENTS OF LAW PRACTICE<HSEP>307<LB>XXXIX  LEARNING FROM A CLIENT.  SUNDRY EXPERIENCES<HSEP>312<LB>XL  HOW MY ACQUAINTANCESHIP WITH I. W. HELLMAN BEGAN<HSEP>316</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>XLI  BRIEF BANKING HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES<HSEP>320<LB>XLII  J. M. ELLIOTT, OUR LIVING PIONEER BANKER.  MY ENTRANCE INTO THE BANKING BUSINESS<HSEP>329<LB>XLIII  BILLY SANDS.  RUNNING TO A FIRE<HSEP>333<LB>XLIV  BUILT HOME AT TERMINAL ISLAND.  "OUR SOUTHERN SEAS"<HSEP>337<LB>XLV  VARIOUS FISHING EXCURSIONS.  BIG TROUT, BUT GOT AWAY<HSEP>351<LB>XLVI  MY FIRST EARTHQUAKE EXPERIENCE<HSEP>361<LB>XLVII  HUNTING TRIP IN ANTELOPE VALLEY.  CHASING A BEAR ON HORSEBACK AT LAKE TAHOE<HSEP>364<LB>XLVIII  EXPERIENCES AS AN ORANGE-GROWER<HSEP>367<LB>XLIX  "DRIVING TEN ELEPHANTS HITCHED TO BANDWAGON"<HSEP>370<LB>L  FIRST OIL COMPANY IN LOS ANGELES COUNTY.  MY EXPERIENCE IN OIL<HSEP>379<LB>LI  INJURY TO KNEE, AND LOSS OF LEG.  DREAMS AFTER OPERATION.  EXPERIENCES AS A CRIPPLE<HSEP>387<LB>LII  THE LOS ANGELES BAR.  LEGAL ANECDOTES<HSEP>406<LB>LIII  LETTER TO MR. M. H. NEWMARK<HSEP>425<LB>LIV  BANQUET TENDERED ME ON MY 60TH BIRTHDAY.  RETURN BANQUET BY ME, AT MY HOME, ON 70TH BIRTHDAY<HSEP>431<LB>LV  WARS OF THE UNITED STATES DURING MY LIFETIME<HSEP>445<LB>LVI  THE SORROWS OF MY LIFE<HSEP>451<LB>LVII  GENERAL COMMENTS ON PROGRESS OF LOS ANGELES<HSEP>467<LB>INDEX<HSEP>471</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>One of the strongest impressions left upon me, after reading the following pages, is the realization that it is a most notable contribution to the history of California.</P>
095.sgm:<P>History claims a place second to none in the roll of interesting subjects of study.  The desire to know how we come to be what we are, and how the world comes to be what it is, is inborn in us all.  Biography has ever furnished the best material for the historian.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Between the lines of this story of the life of J. A. Graves, can be read every phase of the development of California, from the days of the decline of the mining industry to the present moment.</P>
095.sgm:<P>After the waning of the mining era the people of California turned to the agricultural possibilities of the state.  This included civic development, because as the agricultural resources were increased and widened, towns and cities grew.  First, the grains and cereals were grown, and then deciduous fruits, and later on the grape, to be followed by the citrus fruits as a merchantable product.  Incidental to this tillage of the land, and growth of cities, the titles to the land were directly involved.  The base of civic, and particularly agricultural, development is the title to the land.  No progress can be made except that ownership in the land is such that it insures to the owner unclouded ownership.  All new countries, in their evolution to social stability, pass through this stage.  Collateral to the ownership in the land, our state was peculiar in that ownership in the water that irrigated the land was of equal importance.  Because of our climatic conditions, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>As to the book itself, it is a perfect exemplification of the saying, " <HI REND="italics">Le Style c'est l'homme</HI>
095.sgm:<P>Biography can be, and many of them are, a kind of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>As to the man portrayed by this book, I would say he is of the finest type of an American.  He comes of good Kentucky stock.  The Southerners have always been good pioneers--Lewis and Clark were from Virginia--Fremont was from South Carolina.  Eighty per cent of the white population of Los Angeles, between 1865 and 1870, was from the South.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When the Graves family reached Marysville and found their savings had been lost, they did not sit down and do nothing but mope in despair.  Such people do not know the meaning of the word "poverty."  It simply meant that they had to commence over, which they proceeded to do.  Then followed for Mr. Graves, even in his extreme youth, a period of hard physical work, of slow gains, with some comfort, but with complete independence and always with his self-respect untarnished.  Through it all was his indomitable will, his boundless energy, his unfailing perseverance.  He would have an education, and he obtained it, in spite of every difficulty.  By unflagging industry and thoroughness he always was, and always will be, successful.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>J. A. Graves has always been an honest man, not merely honest in that he observed the legal regulations respecting what is mine and thine, but honest in the sense that he pays his debts, tells the truth, and does his work thoroughly.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He has always been a free man.  No man ever owned him; he has never been under bondage a moment of his life.  Neither influence, nor power, nor gold, could make him surrender one iota of his personal independence.  Four-square to every wind that blows he has ever stood unfettered to do that and that only which his conscience dictated.  He has been a man of courage, both physical and moral.  Note with what courage he attacked the vicissitudes of his youth.  It took courage to fight his way to the top.  But his courage is not only of that kind, but he has always had the courage to say just what he thinks, regardless of consequences.  He has contributed much to the press on the public affairs of the day and he never hesitates to attack boldly the demagogues and political Bolsheviks of our time.  I think these lines of Lowell aptly describe him:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I honor the man who is ready to sink<LB>Half his present repute for the freedom to think;<LB>And when he has thought, be his cause strong or weak,<LB>Will sink t'other half for the freedom to speak,<LB>Caring naught for what vengeance the mob has in store,<LB>Let that mob be the upper ten thousand, or lower."<LB></HI>
095.sgm:<P>And when I spoke of Mr. Graves being of the highest type of American, I spoke advisedly, because he is genuine California American, and that is the finest type.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Eastern seaboard states, and even as far west as Chicago, are more or less affected by European influences, by reason of their easy access.  If my memory serves me correctly, Mr. Graves has made but one trip to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>If he were trolling for lake trout on Lake Tahoe, his eyes saw a sky as blue as the waters of that turquoise jewel, set amidst the rugged, pine-clad summits of its guardian mountains.  If he were hunting the rare antelope on the plains of La Liebre, he worked his way through the elfin forest of the chaparral, the hot, dry air redolent with the odor of crushed sage.  If he were casting the fly for the golden trout on Volcano Creek, he was amidst the sublime and austere surroundings of the High Sierras, where the winds blow in melody through the spires of the spruce and fir, the meadows are spangled with buttercups, and the wild lilac and manzanita challenge your path.  Communion with these places inoculates one with a mystical influence that leaves its mark on character.  And as you read these pages you will feel that they have left their impress on the man pictured therein.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Deal with him gently, gentle Time."</P>
095.sgm:<P>H. W. O'MELVENY.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>MY SEVENTY YEARS IN CALIFORNIA</P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>FAMILY HISTORY.  MARYSVILLE IN 1857 COL. JIM HOWARTH</P>
095.sgm:<P>FROM an entry in my mother's handwriting, in her family Bible, which is in my possession, I learn that my father, John Q. Graves, was born in Lexington, Kentucky, on October 11th, 1823, and that my mother, Katharine Jane Haun, was born September 24th, 1826, on the Georgetown Pike, several miles from Lexington, where her father conducted a flouring mill and an old-fashioned Southern plantation.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Another entry in her Bible, in her handwriting, records the fact that she and my father were married at Paducah, Kentucky, on February 26th, 1846.  Four children were born to them, in the following order:</P>
095.sgm:<P>Henry Emmet Graves, who died in Los Angeles in April, 1906; Selwyn Haun Graves, who died at Marysville, California, in 1860; Kate Graves, who died at the same place in 1864; and myself.  My brother Selwyn and I, favoring my father, were blondes, with light hair and light blue eyes; my eldest brother and sister, favoring my mother, were semi-brunettes, with dark hair and most piercing black eyes.  There was as much difference in the dispositions of us four children as there was in our appearance.  Selwyn and I were the lively and mischievous ones.  My eldest brother and my sister were more sedate.  I was the pessimist of the family.  Many a time I have cried myself to sleep, when the spring weather promised a dry year and I saw the crops withering up.  I imagined all sorts of disasters ahead of us, even starvation.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>My grandfather, W. W. Graves, who died of the cholera at the age of 87, and my grandmother, Polly Cloud Graves (they were not related, although they bore the same family name), who died at the extreme age of 105 years, in the possession of all her faculties, were of English descent.  They were married the day the Battle of Waterloo was begun.  My mother's people were Holland-Dutch.  I have heard my mother state that her grandmother on her mother's side was named Winter and that she could hardly speak English.</P>
095.sgm:<P>My mother had only two sisters, Elizabeth and Mary, twins.  They were born in 1823.  Elizabeth died when quite a young woman, never having been married.  Mary married Capt. Samuel T. Milliken, after whom Milliken's Bend, on the Mississippi River, was named.  He migrated to Texas, and was for many years a prominent figure there, in the mercantile world.  He left one daughter, Edmonia, who married Capt. A. J. Brown, and who died on March 16th, 1927, being then a little over seventy-five years of age.</P>
095.sgm:<P>My mother had many brothers.  So did my father, and he had but one sister.  I have heard my parents state that when I was born, I had nineteen living uncles.  Of course all of them have passed away.  Most of them lived to quite an old age, except several of my father's brothers, who were killed at the Battle of Murfreesboro, in the Civil War.  They were serving under John Morgan, the celebrated Confederate cavalry leader.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Another entry in my mother's handwriting, in the same Bible, recites the fact that I was born on Sunday, December 5th, 1852.  I know, from information received <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOTHER AND FATHER GRAVES</P>
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095.sgm:<P>William G. Haun, one of my uncles on my mother's side, after whom the village was named, and my father, conducted a flouring mill and distillery and a general merchandise store at Hauntown.  The mill was built by them in 1850.  Its timbers were of hewn oak and pinned together with oak pins.  It was destroyed by fire late in 1926.  Some of the timbers were saved by the fire department and were found to be as sound as the day they were laid in the building.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In the Spring of 1926, I delivered an address at a luncheon of the Bar Association of Riverside County, California.  Mr. Lyman Evans, an attorney of that city, whom I had met before and knew by reputation, presided at the luncheon.  He asked me where I was born.  I told him and he said: "Why, I was born within a few miles of Hauntown, on my father's farm.  What did your father do?"  I told him that he and my uncle were in business there in Hauntown.  He threw up his hand, as if writing on a blackboard, and said: "W. G. Haun &amp; J. Q. Graves, Millers, Distillers and General Merchants.  I can see that sign now," he said, "as plainly as if it were before me.  It was on the front end of the mill."  He then went on to state that often, as a boy, he accompanied his father to the mill when he was hauling wheat and corn to it.  He said there was very little money in circulation.  For such products as they sold, they got some money, took back flour, corn-meal, buckwheat flour, bran, middlings, always ten gallons of whiskey, and general merchandise.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We left Iowa when I was scarcely five years of age, but I have a remembrance of some things that occurred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>A short time before we migrated from Iowa, my two brothers took a little wagon, such as boys always have, put me in it and started for the mill for some chicken-feed.  Instead of going down a perfectly smooth road, which was safe to travel, they took a path down the steepest side of the hill.  As boys will, they got to fooling on the road, and at the steepest declivity, near its foot, they broke the tongue out of the wagon, and it dashed on with me in it and the mill-race just ahead.  I distinctly remember that I had no fear of the water, but extreme fear of those three-foot catfish.  Just as I went over the bank, the miller, Johnnie Mulligan, happened to come around the corner of the mill, and he fished me out, only damaged to the extent of a scare and a wetting.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Before coming to California, after closing out affairs in Iowa, we went to Lexington, Kentucky, and there visited my grandparents and other relatives.  From there we went to New York and came to California by way of Panama.  We came to San Francisco by steamer, on either the "Golden Gate" or the "Golden Age," I forget which, but whichever one it was, we played lucky.  On her next trip up the coast she burned to the water's edge, and a great many people lost their lives.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>We had relatives living at Marysville, in Yuba County, and went there from San Francisco on a river boat.  We were much astonished to find considerable fruit and plenty of grapes growing in that neighborhood.  They were introduced by General John A. Sutter, who came to California in 1835.  He obtained very large grants of land from the then Mexican Governor of California, embracing much of Yuba and Sutter Counties.  He bored with a big auger.  He impressed the Indians into his service by treating them well, and had a large place near Marysville, called "The Hermitage," where he raised all kinds of crops, established a flouring mill, and built a saw-mill at Colima where Marshall discovered the gold which caused the rush to California from the Eastern States.  He brought lumber from Colima, fenced off ranches, built houses and barns and planted fruit trees and vineyards.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In my uncle's front yard at Marysville--with whom we stopped--weretwo immense fig trees, of the black Mission variety, full of delicious figs as late as October first, when we came there.  There was also a grape arbor, loaded with ripe grapes.  Many late peaches were still on the trees, also apples just becoming ripe.  To us, coming from a then almost fruitless land, these things were a great surprise and treat.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Marysville, in 1857, was the third town in California in importance, San Francisco being first and Sacramento second.  It was situated above the junction of the Feather and Yuba Rivers.  It was founded by a man named Charles Covillaud and another Frenchman named Sicard.  They bought the site of Marysville and much other land from General Sutter.  Judge Stephen J. Field, afterwards Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of California, also for many years a Justice of the United States Supreme Court, arrived in Marysville in 1849.  He was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Covillaud, his wife and daughter Naomi, then a small child, were survivors of the Donner Party which, in 1846, were frozen in at Donner Lake, in the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  Mrs. Covillaud's name was Mary, and when they laid out the town some wanted to call it Yubaville and other equally obnoxious appellations.  Judge Field suggested that it be named after Mrs. Covillaud, and it was christened Marysville.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The promoters of the townsite, Covillaud and Sicard, arranged an auction sale of lots.  Covillaud urged Judge Field to buy as many lots as he wanted.  Field told him he had no money.  Covillaud said that made no difference, that he would give him all the time he wanted to pay for them.  Accordingly, Judge Field bid in some sixty-nine lots, mostly corners, for approximately $20,000.  Inside of sixty days he sold one-third of them for sufficient to pay for all of them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge Field and my uncle, Henry P. Haun, also a lawyer, were very intimate friends.  My uncle was appointed by Governor Bigler to fill out the unexpired term of Broderick in the United States Senate when the latter was killed in a duel with Judge Terry.  Uncle Henry returned to California at the end of the session and would, without doubt, have been elected to the Senate, but he died of Panama fever three days after reaching San Francisco.  While in the Senate, he made probably the first speech ever delivered there advocating the building of a railroad from the East to the Pacific Coast.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge Haun's only daughter, Mrs. Kate Haun Dewey, a widow, one year older than myself, lives in San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Some thirty years ago I was in Judge E. M. Ross's chambers, then located in the old Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank Building, at Main and Commercial streets, in Los Angeles, and he introduced me to Justice Field.  I told the Judge that, in the early days, I had an uncle who was a warm friend of his.  He inquired who he was.  I told him, "Henry P. Haun."  He embraced me lovingly, and inquired how it came that I was a nephew of Henry P. Haun.  I told him that it was the most natural thing in the world, he being my mother's brother.  He made me sit down and he entertained Judge Ross and myself by going over many Marysville incidents, including the disgraceful manner in which a Judge Turner had treated both Judge Field and my Uncle Henry.  It shows that the friendship of those early days was long remembered.  When it came time for the judges to ascend the bench, we entered the court room from Judge Ross's chambers.  Justice Field had his arm around me, and when we reached the steps leading to the bench, he shook me warmly by the hand, much to the astonishment of the attorneys who were in the court room.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We knew and visited the Covillauds.  After we went to Marysville, the daughter, Naomi, married a large land-holder, named Mike Ney, while she was quite a young girl.  He died some years afterwards, and in time she married a man named Schenck who lived at The Dalles, Oregon.  She is now a widow, still living there, very wealthy, the principal owner of a prosperous bank, is about eighty-seven years old, and is probably one of the last survivors of the Donner Party.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Marysville at that time was the head of river <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>As soon as the winter storms were over, and the snow had begun to melt off the mountains, huge mule teams drawn by from ten to twenty-four animals, took this freight and all that was brought up during the summertime, over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, in California, and even as far as Virginia City and White Pine, in Nevada.  It was a wonderful sight to see these teams, heavily laden, pulling out of Marysville.  Each team was in charge of one driver, usually a Missourian, who rode the near pole mule and handled his animals with a jerk line attached to the bridle bit of the near lead mule.  The wisdom displayed by this animal, who was the acknowledged leader of the team, was most astonishing.  With twelve span of mules hitched to a wagon with two trailers attached, on a sharp turn, on a steep mountain road, the jerk line mule knew just how far to get out on the outside of the grade, to allow his wagons to clear the inside embankment.  The amount of freight so moved was simply astonishing.  The feeding of hundreds and hundreds of mules so engaged made a good market for hay and grain that the farming communities raised, while they took many of these commodities as freight to the mines.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>All passengers were carried in six and eight-horse stages owned by the California Stage Company, whose headquarters were in Sacramento and whose president was Col. Jim Howarth, a genial, big-framed, big-hearted Kentuckian, who, among other things, owned the celebrated running stallion, "Langford," who was a frequent contender for heavy purses against the thoroughbreds, "Norfolk" and "Lodi," owned by Theodore Winters of Yolo County.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Nowhere in the world were there ever better stages, or better horses, than the California Stage Company used.</P>
095.sgm:<P>They used to tell a very good joke on Howarth.  He was a kindly man and thought a great deal of his employes.  His superintendent in Marysville discharged one of their old drivers, named Dave Taylor, because he was getting near-sighted.  Within the next day or two, Col. Howarth was in Marysville.  The stage company's office was in Marcuse's cigar store, in a corner of the Western Hotel.  It was a small, narrow room.  Howarth was standing in the door, looking out, and smoking a cigar, when along came Dave Taylor.  Col. Howarth greeted him very cordially, and after talking with him a few minutes, he said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"What time is it by that clock?" (meaning the clock in the steeple of the Presbyterian Church, about eight blocks off).</P>
095.sgm:<P>On the inner wall of the stage company's office was a very large-faced clock and old Dave was looking right at it.  He took a squint at it, turned around, shaded his eyes with his hand and replied:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"It is five minutes to eleven."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Why," exploded Howarth, "there is nothing wrong with your eyes.  Come in here."</P>
095.sgm:<P>They went in and Howarth wrote a note to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>About 1876, staging being on the wane in Northern California, Taylor drifted to Los Angeles and was driving stage from this city to San Diego.  Anaheim was situated on a pure sand-bank, and in summer the streets were a fright.  There were three or four livery stables there, and with the consent of the authorities they hauled all the manure from their stables and spread it on the main street of the town.  Thereupon old Dave threw up his job.  He said he would not drive a stage that passed through any town that paved its streets with horse-manure.  He then opened a small faro game in Los Angeles and ran it quite successfully until his death.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1857, the water in both the Feather and Yuba Rivers was at least fifty feet below the level of the plain upon which Marysville was built.  After hydraulic mining began, the rivers filled up, and today there is a levee around the city of Marysville, not less than twenty feet high, to keep out flood waters.  All of the bottom land on both of the rivers, of course, has been ruined, and along the bluff, which separated the upland from the bottom land, levees extend on both sides of Feather River, and on both sides of Yuba River, for many miles.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>MARYSVILLE BAR IN 1857.  JUDGE STEPHEN J. FIELD ITS LEADER.  GEN. GEO. N. ROWE PLACERVILLE BAR AN ABLE ONE</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN 1857, Marysville had a very able Bar.  Justice Field was the leader of it.  Shortly after we reached Marysville he was elected Justice of the Supreme Court of the State of California.  He remained on the bench, part of the time as Chief Justice, until President Lincoln appointed him a Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States.  He filled that position, with great credit to himself, and honor to the nation, for thirty-four years, when he resigned.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He had many able competitors while living at Marysville.  Among them were Judge Filkins and Judge F. L. Hatch; G. N. Sweezy, General Geo. N. Rowe; C. E. DeLong, afterwards Minister to China during General Grant's administration; Hank Mitchell, who attained great prominence as a mining lawyer in the Comstock days; the two Belcher brothers, Isaac S., who was for many years on the supreme bench of the state, and W. C. Belcher; Joseph Ashford, Nin Whitesides, E. D. Wheeler, a son-in-law of Judge Geo. N. Rowe, who for many years was a judge of the district court of the nineteenth judicial district of the state, in San Francisco.  It was said that he and Judge E. W. McKinstry of the supreme court of the state, wrote the purest English of anyone in the legal profession in California.  There was Judge Merrill, Judge Davis, and Gordon N. Mott.  Later on came James G. Eastman, who took a prominent position at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Marysville had three eminent physicians, Dr. E. T. Wilkins, who was afterwards, for many years, superintendent of the Napa Insane Asylum; Dr. McDaniels, whose son, Eugene, has been judge of the superior court of Yuba County for many years; and Dr. Gray, the father of L. D. C. Gray who lived for many years in Los Angeles and was employed by the firm of Graves &amp; O'Melveny, Attorneys at Law.  He died several years ago.  One of Dr. McDaniels' daughters married Major Frank Ganahl, who was practicing law in Los Angeles in 1875.  He subsequently went to Idaho where he was quite successful.  He died either in Idaho or Spokane, Washington, I forget which.  His widow lives at Hollywood.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In those days, all of these lawyers and, in fact, everybody else, were active politicians.  Political feeling ran very high.  People took an active interest in politics, turned out at all political rallies and did their best to elect the nominees of their respective parties.  There were quite a number of southern sympathizers at Marysville.  When President Lincoln was assassinated, some of them rejoiced openly, and they were promptly arrested and confined at Alcatraz Island, in the San Francisco Bay.  There was a man named L. W. Thomas, from Tennessee, who was very tall and quite slender.  His right hand had been burned when he was a child and his fingers were all twisted up.  He could, however, hold a revolver in it and use it effectually.  Some female admirer had made him a silk Confederate flag, about six by ten inches in size.  The day the assassination of the president was announced, he pinned it on his breast and boldly strutted around the streets of Marysville, hurrahing for Jefferson Davis.  He was arrested and taken to Alcatraz.  All of these political <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Thomas was quite a wild character and, with the Joe McGee crowd, had been in a number of shooting scrapes.  He owned a ranch at Chico, some miles above Marysville.  An adjoining neighbor, named Turner, a brother of Judge Turner of the Judge Field episode at Marysville, one day took a shot at Thomas and then jumped behind a tree.  The trunk of it was not large and was crooked, so that one of his knees was exposed.  Thomas promptly put a bullet through it, and in speaking of the incident he would always say, "Yes, yes, I shot him through the knee to make him bow to a Southern gentleman."  After the war, he returned to Tennessee and died there.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When Thomas returned to Tennessee he expected to come back to California.  In conversation with Jefferson Davis, ex-president of the Southern Confederacy, he told him that my mother was alive, and Davis gave to Thomas a beautiful letter to be delivered to her, together with an autographed photograph, as follows:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Jefferson Davis to Mrs. John Q. Graves,<LB>San Francisco, California.  July 9, 1870."<LB></HI>
095.sgm:<P>At that time we were living in San Mateo County, a few miles from San Francisco.  Thomas inherited quite an estate in Tennessee, from some relative, and did not return to California, but he sent the letter and photograph to my mother.  Mr. Davis went to college with my uncle, Henry P. Haun, visited at the home of my mother's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>People of this age have no idea of the social conditions prevailing in California in 1857.  Even Judge Field, before he went on the bench, accepted a challenge to fight a duel.  His challenger, when the time fixed for the meeting came on, got cold feet, got out of the vehicle that brought him and his second to the grounds, boarded a passing stage and fled to Sacramento, much to the disgust of his second, Charlie Fairfax.  Judge Field and his second, who was Gordon N. Mott, very courteously took his opponent's second back to Marysville with them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge Field, while in the legislature, was compelled to challenge B. F. Moore, an assemblyman from Tuolumne County.  Motion to impeach Judge Turner of Yuba County was before the house.  Moore made a violent and indecent attack on the floor of the house upon Judge Field.  Judge Field sent David C. Broderick, also an assemblyman, to Moore, demanding a public retraction on the floor of the assembly, and as Moore refused to make the same, he then challenged him to fight a duel, Broderick acting as his second.  Moore declined to accept the challenge solely on the ground that he was going to run for congress and that to fight a duel might injure his chances.  Broderick then told Moore that Judge Field would, on the next morning, denounce him on the floor of the assembly.  Moore replied that, if he did, Field would be shot.  Broderick told him that, in that case, there would be others shot.  When the house was called to order by the speaker, a coterie of assemblymen, all fully armed, surrounded Field.  He and Moore arose at the same time, Field fully prepared to denounce Moore in as severe language as he was capable of.  The speaker <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>I do not relate this incident to disparage the character of Judge Field, than whom no man of finer sensibilities or greater honor ever lived, in the State of California.  I simply mention these facts to show the social conditions then prevailing here.  Men drank to excess and shooting scrapes were the order of the day.  Gambling was an occupation continuously indulged in.  Finally the wild crowd passed off the stage and more peaceful times prevailed.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I must relate an incident regarding General Rowe, the attorney spoken of above.  When we moved to Marysville, he owned a ranch a mile or two from us.  We had a band of fifteen or twenty sheep which ran with the cows, and quite a number of stock hogs.  We sold them all to General Rowe.  Among the sheep was a buck named Billy, whom I had raised by hand, having picked him up by the side of the road one evening, where he would have perished before morning.  Lambs born out of season were discarded by their mothers and herders.  After feeding him I would scratch his head, push him back with my hand, and in a little while I got him to butting everything on the ranch, even to fence-posts.  The only person he respected was my father.  He attacked him one day, when he happened to have a pick-handle in his hand, and father gave him a severe beating, and after that he let him alone.  He had grown quite large, and if he caught me away from any building or fence, he would bowl me over and after a little while lie down and contentedly chew his cud, and I would crawl off on my hands and knees, when he would jump up and come after me, but not assault me; and in a little while lie down again, and after a time I would get to some place where I was protected.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>The hogs were delivered in two or three wagon-loads, and my father told me, that afternoon, to take the sheep over to Rowe's.  I put a rope on Billy's horns and led him, I being on horseback, all the other sheep following.  When I got to Gen. Rowe's place he was sitting on the back porch.  He saw me coming and told me to put the sheep in a corral that was not far from this porch.  I opened the gate, took them in, got the rope off of Billy, and got out.  In the corral were a lot of calves that were being fed skim-milk.  I stopped to exchange the courtesies of the day with the General, he having come down off the porch.  One of these calves came up to Billy and stuck out his nose affectionately towards him, when Billy knocked him galley-west.  Then another one came up and he floored him.  General Rowe seemed to get excited over this, opened a small gate and went in to drive Billy off.  He was dressed in a long black coat, and probably he made some impression on Billy.  Instead of immediately attacking him, Billy reared up on his hind legs, twisted his head and bleated defiance.  In the meantime the General began to back off and got through the gate.  Billy became more threatening, and made a break for him.  The porch was four or five steps up.  Just as he reached the steps, Billy overtook him and very materially assisted him in ascending the steps by boosting him from behind.  Then Billy stood off, rearing up on his hind legs and twisting his head in challenge and encouragement to battle.  Gen. Rowe had a rifle sitting on the porch, with which he had been trying to get a shot at a big hawk.  He was so mad that he took up the rifle and in a very few minutes put an end to Billy's existence.  It was all I could do to keep from laughing.  I told him I couldn't understand what had gotten into that sheep; that I had never heard of his butting anyone before; that I had probably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>When I reached home I was exultantly telling my mother how Billy had performed, and of his untimely ending, and of my telling Gen. Rowe that I had never seen him butt anything before.  I miscalculated her fibre.  She gave me a good scolding, and told me to go hitch a horse up to a buggy, which I did.  Then she said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Get in here and drive me over to Gen Rowe's."</P>
095.sgm:<P>She scolded me all the way there.  The General lived in Marysville and was only out at the ranch for the day.  We found him just ready to start for home.  He greeted my mother most cordially, and she said to him:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"General, I have brought this lying boy back to you, to make him apologize to you.  He taught that sheep to butt, and he knew that he would butt anything in sight, and I want to pay you for the sheep."</P>
095.sgm:<P>The General laughed good-naturedly and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"We have a dozen workmen here.  We intended to eat all those sheep, and they have already skinned Billy and they will eat him, so no harm has been done.  I don't want you to pay me for the sheep."</P>
095.sgm:<P>She then directed his attention to me, and asked the General what he thought of a boy who had done what I had.  He was on my side of the buggy.  He put his hand on my shoulder and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Graves, the boy is all right.  He didn't lie.  He simply suppressed the facts.  Mark me, he will make a great lawyer some day."</P>
095.sgm:<P>The reader can well imagine that I was not feeling any too good, and I do not know that his compliment made me feel any better.  He told my mother that he regretted our moving away, and asked her if she would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>The actions of my mother that day, and the lecture I received from her, made a deep impression on me.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Gen. Rowe had an enormous appetite for food.  His reputation in that respect was widespread.  On one occasion he was in Sacramento, going to San Francisco.  At breakfast, at the old Golden Eagle Hotel, he ordered buckwheat cakes many times, to the astonishment of his waiter.  A few days afterwards, returning from San Francisco, he again breakfasted at the hotel.  When the waiter who had attended him the last time saw that he was there, without taking his order, he went to the kitchen door and shouted:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Buckwheat cakes and sausage gravy for ten!  That old hog from Marysville is back again."  Gen. Rowe overheard the waiter and told this as a great joke on himself.</P>
095.sgm:<P>As early as 1860, the churches were well represented in Marysville.  The Methodists, the Catholics, the Presbyterians and the Episcopalians all had very good buildings, considering the times.  I do not remember whether the Baptists were represented or not.  It was well provided with public schools.  There was a very large two-story brick building, presided over by Mr. Dudley L. Stone, a very celebrated educator, who was afterwards Superintendent of Public Instruction in San Francisco.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Other towns in Northern California were also represented by good lawyers; for instance, at Placerville, among others, there was Joe Hamilton, several times Attorney General of the state; at Grass Valley there were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>I never think of Niles Searles without a feeling of gratitude.  From 1880 to 1885, my partner in the practice of law was John S. Chapman, undoubtedly one of the ablest lawyers on the coast.  Chief Justice Fuller, of the U. S. Supreme Court, said that Chapman's argument before that court, in what was known as the "Scrip Case," involving the right to locate government scrip, on oil lands in California, was the ablest argument he ever heard while on the bench.  He declared that it equaled anything Webster ever did.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In about 1883 or 1884, Brousseau &amp; Johnston (the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:latter, Griffin Johnston, being a son of Albert Sidney Johnston, the famous Confederate commander) brought an action for a man named A. L. Bath against one Valdez and others, to quiet title to the north half of a one hundred and twenty-foot lot on Spring Street, between Second and Third, in Los Angeles.  Johnston dropped out of the firm of Brousseau &amp; Johnston; Judge Brousseau was not well, and he employed our firm to assist him.  The laboring oar fell to Mr. Chapman.  He tried the case, while I made money every day for the firm attending to its commercial quick-paying business.  At the trial, Bath succeeded in showing a perfect paper title to an undivided one-half of the sixty feet involved.  He had to depend upon the statute of limitations for title to the other half.  He showed many years' occupation under a claim of right and the payment of all taxes.  There was no question of minorities of any of the claimants to the lot involved.  The legal question involved was whether or not the statute ran against a joint tenant.  Judge Chapman argued the question very elaborately.  So did counsel on the other side, among them being Stephen M. White, who was then in his prime.  The trial judge decided that the statute did not run in favor of Bath against his co-tenant.  We made a motion for a new trial and appealed from an order denying it and from the judgment, going up on a statement on motion for new trial, which contained all the evidence given at the trial.  The supreme court affirmed the judgment of the court below.  Chapman was heart-broken.  He had studied the case thoroughly, was familiar with all the authorities, and knew in his soul that his position was correct.  He filed a petition for re-hearing.  It was granted and the case was re-argued.  The supreme court affirmed the judgment of the lower court.  We filed a petition for a re-hearing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Of course we, and especially Chapman, were overjoyed, I rather more for the fee that was in sight, but he purely from the love of the law.  He wanted to see right prevail.  We sent for Bath to tell him the good news.  He received it quietly and then said, "I always told you there was nothing in that case."  Rather a bald statement, when he had come so near losing the case.  That took the joy out of poor Chapman.  He asked me what we ought to charge Bath.  (Up to that time we had never had a cent out of the case.  Brousseau had abandoned it, when we lost it in the lower court, and left it to us.)  As the thirty feet recovered was then worth sixty thousand dollars, I told Chapman to charge him $3,000.  He and I at that time had dissolved partnership and he was in partnership with his brother-in-law, E. W. Hendrick.  He did not say anything, but sent Bath a bill in the name of our firm for $2,000.  Bath paid it and never afterwards would he speak to Chapman.  He was always friendly with me until one day when he complained of Chapman's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>FARMING IN EARLY DAYS IN CALIFORNIA HOW WE LIVED.  DEMOCRATIC CELEBRATION AT MARYSVILLE DURING THE LINCOLN-McCLELLAN CAMPAIGN</P>
095.sgm:<P>WHEN we started for California my father left quite a considerable sum of money, more than $30,000, on deposit in a Chicago bank.  The year 1857 was a panic year.  Many banks throughout the country failed.  By the next steamer after the one we came on, he learned that the bank in which his money was deposited had been closed.  After some years he received a very small dividend on the amount due him.  This was a severe blow to my father.  He had intended to embark in some mercantile business.  Without capital he could not do so.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We accordingly went onto a ranch five miles from Marysville, on the east bank of Feather River, under some sort of a partnership agreement with one of my uncles, A. J. Haun, brother of Henry P. In 1857, Northern California was thinly settled.  Marysville had about five thousand inhabitants but settlers in the surrounding country were few and far between.  The house on the place that we moved to was a huge affair, built by General Sutter, and was hardly a fit shelter for human beings.  My father and mother, uncle and some assistants went out there every day for a couple of weeks, getting it in some sort of condition, and finally we moved out to it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There was plenty of room for all of us downstairs.  The upstairswas simply a huge loft, of the width and depth of the house, and must have been fully eighty feet long.  There was a big window in the south end and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Our first six months on that ranch were very harrowing.  Early rains set in, there was no school in the neighborhood, no community life of any kind.  The days were long and dreary.  During the winter we managed to get a crop in on the upland by hiring men and getting from the teamsters, who hauled freight in the summer time to the mountains, mules with which to plow.  They were very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>J. A. GRAVES AND SISTER KATE WHEN HE WAS FIVE YEARS OLD</P>
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095.sgm:<P>We always made our own hams, bacon, lard, and had plenty of spare-ribs and sausage meat.  Some of the sausage was stuffed and smoked and lasted until away in the spring.  In the fall we would put up a barrel of sauerkraut and kill a young steer, pickle some of the meat, make corned beef of some of it, smoke some of it, and eat the rest fresh.  As far as living was concerned, we had everything that anybody ought to have.  We made the old-fashioned lye hominy, taking selected ears of corn, putting the corn, after shelling it, through the fanning mill, and then outdoors there was a hopper, made of boards, in which all the ashes from the house were put, and when the rains came a jar was set under the drain-pipe of this ashbin, and gave us lye.  With that lye, the outer covering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Nevertheless, we had none of the comforts of modern civilization.  Our only lights were candles.  We made them ourselves, because of economy, and those we made were better than those we bought.  Fortunately, in a box of bed-clothing which was sent from Iowa, around the Horn, two candle-molds were packed.  They were tin affairs, with a handle to hold them by while filling.  Each one made four candles.  The lower end was round, tapering, and terminated in a small hole just large enough for a wick.  There was a square receptacle at the top where the candle matter was poured in.  There were two stout little hickory sticks belonging to each mold.  They fitted in a groove right over the center of the holes in which the candles were made.  In the middle of the stick, over each hole, was a little groove.  One of my earliest jobs was to put the wicks into these candle-molds.  I did it by taking a hard string, dropping it from the tip through the bottom of each of the holes, and then tying it to the wick and pulling the wick through.  On the upper end of each wick there was a loop which fitted into the groove on the two sticks mentioned.  When all the wicks were in, we tied the lower ends together.  That pulled all the wicks taut and the grooves in the sticks brought the wicks in the center of each candle.  We used for making the candles mutton tallow and beeswax, half and half.  The beeswax we obtained from wild-bee trees.  The mixture was heated and thoroughly mixed, then poured into the molds.  They cooled very rapidly.  The wicks, where tied together, were then cut off, and the candles drawn out, two at a time.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>Well do I remember when kerosene came.  Everybody called it and it was sold as "fluid."  It was not as clear as modern kerosene, but had a bluish tinge.  I suppose refining had not been brought to a fine art at that time.  We burned it in dinky little lamps.  They did not have a flat wick but two round wicks, and there was nothing to move them up and down by.  If they were too high we had to cut them off.  If they got too short we would take a long sacking needle and work them up.  They were, however, such an improvement over the candles that we felt very much puffed up when we got to burning them.  In those days the only plows we had were single plows.  To my father it looked like a slow way of getting a thousand acres plowed, so he went in to see a Marysville blacksmith, and they put their heads together, and after working a few days they arranged to hitch three plows side by side.  This was probably the first attempt at making gang plows in California.  By putting eight mules on this new-fangled plow, the work of two men was dispensed with and the plowing went on more rapidly.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Being a country boy, my amusements were few and chiefly self-made, my sources of information meager.  Consequently, everything that I saw or heard made a deep impression upon me.  As soon as I was old enough, I began to wander around with an old hard-kicking muzzle-loading shotgun.  One of my first duties was to go early in the morning and late in the evening to kill the quail in our vegetable garden.  Often I would kill a dozen quail at one shot, and my mother used to ask me to kill something besides quail.  Game of all kinds was very numerous.  I spent a great deal of time in a woodland of several hundred acres that was on this property, studying animal and bird life, and I learned to love the trees and vines.  A live slough on the property, of considerable dimensions, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Illustrating my efforts at amusement, when I was about twelve years old, in plowing corn one day, I plowed up a rifle barrel.  It was very heavy.  It had a bore in it as large as one's finger.  It must have been an elephant gun such as we read about.  The lock and stock were gone.  It was covered with rust.  I carried it to the end of the row and when I went home took it with me.  I scoured it for weeks.  My mother told me to grease it well with lard and wrap it up for a week or two, which I did, and it removed a very large portion of the rust.  I dug the sand out of it with a wire, poured hot water in it, but never could get a drop of water through the barrel.  The tube seemed to be hermetically sealed.  I conceived the idea of cutting it off and making a cannon of it.  It was so hard, however, that neither a file nor a cold chisel would make any impression on it.  We did not have saws in those days that would cut metal.  At that time, one of my duties every Saturday was to take butter and eggs to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:few selected customers among the merchants, lawyers, etc., in Marysville.  On one of my trips I put the gunbarrel in the light wagon that I was using.  I was told to have the horse I drove shod that day at a blacksmith shop in Marysville where all of our work was done.  The name of the blacksmith was Ellison.  After I had delivered my butter and eggs--butter a dollar a pound and eggs nearly as much--I went to the blacksmith shop, unhitched the horse, took him in and told Mr. Ellison I wanted him shod.  Then I brought in the rifle barrel and asked him if he would cut it off, that I wanted to make a cannon of it.  I could not have approached anyone more fortunately.  He was the official cannonader of the town, always firing salutes when they had them.  He looked at the barrel, said that it was awfully good steel, turned the shoeing of my horse over to his helper, thrust the gunbarrel into his forge, pulled on the bellows with one hand and poked the fire up with an iron rod, and I can hear that bellows murmur yet.  He told me, while he was heating the barrel, that he had a little gun carriage there and he would mount it for me.  He had the end of the barrel in his hand, and was poking it around in the fire, when all at once the infernal thing went off.  Fortunately, he was not holding the barrel directly towards his body.  The bullet cut through his leather apron and his checked shirt and just grazed the skin.  We never could find it.  It went over on the other side of the shop.  When he heard the noise and felt the bullet, he threw up his hands and fell over on his back.  The helper and I were scared to death, but Ellison soon regained his composure, jumped up, tore off his apron, and found that he was not badly hurt.  And then he got mad.  He took the gun barrel and threw it out in the street and abused me a whole lot.  I went out of the shop and sat down on an old wagon tongue, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>I used to load that thing to the muzzle with blasting powder, which we had on the place to blast oak trees for making fence-posts.  It made a frightful noise, and in a very short time my mother made me go half a mile from the house whenever I wanted to fire it.  The concussion killed all of ther hatching eggs, so that she was not getting any results.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I successfully used the cannon without injury to myself.  Another experience with Ellison, however, was not so fortunate.  During the Lincoln-McClellan presidential campaign, the Democrats of several counties held a great barbecue at the race-track, three or four miles from our house.  There were plenty of old Southern darkies there who certainly knew how to barbecue meat.  They dug long trenches, hauled oak logs into them and then burned them to smouldering coals and cooked the meat over them.  I never have eaten meat that tasted as good as that which we had that day.  There was to be speaking after luncheon, and a lawyer named James M. Coffroth was the orator of the day.  He was an old-fashioned spell-binder, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>My friend Ellison was at the ground with a huge old cannon, and at stated periods he fired his salutes.  The cartridges were in red flannel packages weighing five pounds each.  They were piled up about twenty-five or thirty feet away.  There were two men who would swab out the cannon after each discharge, first with a wet swab, then with a dry one.  I would carry over a cartridge to them.  They would split the end of the cartridge that went into the cannon.  In those days, with the old-fashioned cannon, the man who fired the cannon would have a heavy buckskin glove on and would put his thumb over the vent while the cartridge was being driven home.  For some reason, I know not why, if the slightest air got into the vent, there was a premature explosion.  After I handed the cartridge to the rammers, I used to straddle the cannon looking towards Ellison who was thumbing and firing.  When the cannon was ready to fire, I would get off and go after another cartridge.  As luck would have it, the vent had become heated, burned through Ellison's glove and burned his thumb.  He flinched a little; there was a premature explosion while I was sitting on the cannon.  The two rammers were horribly mutilated, Ellison's face was filled with powder, and it seemed to me that cannon went ten feet into the air.  It never moved when discharged regularly, but there was something in the premature discharge that made it jump.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I attribute my present deafness to that performance.  For fully a month I could not hear anything.  My right ear drum bulged out and the left one shrank inward.  There were no specialists in those days, and our good old family doctor kept both ears full of olive oil and cotton.  Finally my hearing began to come back, but never was as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>That was a disastrous day for the Democrats.  That night there was to have been speaking at Marysville.  A platform had been erected in front of the Western Hotel.  Jim Coffroth, who spoke at the barbecue, among other spell-binders, was to address the unterrified.  Right opposite the stand was a two-story building, the lower part of which was occupied by the Wells Fargo Express Company.  The second floor, for some distance from the corner, was the office of John A. McQuaid, cousin of James G. Eastman, attorney at law.  He invited quite a number of people to his office.  There was a porch opposite the stand, sustained by iron posts.  What was called a French window opened onto this porch.  He moved all the chairs he had and could borrow from neighboring offices onto this porch.  My father, my mother and myself were out there, although I was deaf as a cooper and had my head tied up.  Just before the speaking began, the weight on this porch became too much for it, the iron posts slid out, and it dropped like a table-leaf.  Nine people were killed out-right, among them Mrs. Rooney, who was mother-in-law of Jas. G. Eastman.  There was an iron railing around this porch, and the tops of the uprights to the railing were sharp like arrow-heads.  One of these penetrated the space under Mrs. Rooney's lower jaw and came out at the top of her nose, and she was otherwise horribly mangled.  They simply gave her chloroform enough to put her out of her misery, and then had to saw the iron off to release it from the body.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We were not hurt, but for a few moments were separated.  There was a man named Sharp, whom one of these iron posts had struck, and literally scalped him.  For a few moments my mother thought it was my father.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>SPORT WITH GREYHOUNDS.  MY FIRST AND LAST POKER GAME</P>
095.sgm:<P>AFTER the premature discharge of the cannon at the barbecue, I was not so enthusiastic about my cannon, and I traded it off to a boy for two greyhounds.  Then the sport of my life began.  In front of our place was an open plain which extended some thirty-five or forty miles from Marysville to Oroville.  The ranches along the river were all fenced.  The plain extended easterly, probably from twenty to thirty miles, to the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  There were plenty of jack-rabbits on this plain.  We could not chase rabbits in summer time as the ground got so hard it would tear the balls of the dogs' feet.  They simply would not run.  But when the winter rains came and the grass sprouted, the ground was in excellent condition, and I had the sport of kings.</P>
095.sgm:<P>However, I was pretty hard on horse-flesh, in following the hounds, and I got thrashed sometimes, and scolded many times, for the way I would use the animals up, so I concluded to own a horse of my own.  That year we had a most excellent vegetable garden.  About ten miles from us, on what was called the Honcut, which was a dry stream all summer but a roaring torrent in winter, were many dry farmers who raised nothing but grain.  The only water they had was from wells.  I conceived the idea of peddling vegetables to them.  I broached the subject to my father, told him if I could take old Jake, a family horse, and an express wagon we had, I would go out and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>I must have inherited a streak of thrift from my Holland-Dutch ancestors, because I even made chasing rabbits pay.  There had come to our place a very small pack-mule with a pack-saddle on his back.  He had got lost from some pack-train, of which there were numbers in that country at that time.  We never found his owner.  I used to put the pack-saddle on him, turn him loose, and he would go with us when we were chasing hares.  As fast as we would kill one I would draw it, tie the legs together and hang it on the pack-saddle.  Sometimes we would get as many as thirty or forty rabbits in one day.  By that time the dogs would get tired and refuse to run.  I would clean the rabbits nicely, hang them up overnight, and the next day take them into Marysville, to the market, and get 37 1/2 cents apiece for them.  I can truly say that, after I was twelve years old, I never lacked for spending money which I earned myself.  In winter time I shot ducks for market and in the fall, dove and quail.</P>
095.sgm:<P>As a sequel, however, to my horse purchase, the next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>I think he knew what he was doing--at least, the lesson bore fruit.  I concluded that poker was not a good game for me, and from that day to this, nobody has ever won five cents from me at the game.</P>
095.sgm:<P>After Rogers bought my jumping horse he gave me a five-year-old colt, sired by Lodi, a thoroughbred racer, which could run away from my jumping horse, so I was in part recompensed.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>MOVING FROM MARYSVILLE TO SAN MATEO COUNTY</P>
095.sgm:<P>WHILE we raised good crops, the partnership arrangement with my uncle did not work out very advantageously to us.  At harvest time my uncle's necessities were so great that my father would be put off for his share until the next season.  We accumulated a good supply of work animals and milch cows, but not much money.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In January, 1864, my uncle died.  My father then leased the ranch from the executor of my uncle's estate, for two years, and during both those years we made good money.  Before the expiration of the lease, the executor, without any notice to my father, leased the property to some one else.  My father then purchased another ranch, a few miles farther up the Feather River, and we moved there.  It was good property, most of it rich bottom land, but dire disaster overtook us.  After all the bottom land was plowed, that season, a late flood came and literally swept away all of the top soil as deep as the ground was plowed.  We replowed it, planted some corn, and got a moderate crop; but the next year another flood came, and instead of washing the ground, covered it several feet deep with pure white sand.  After these floods came the country became very malarial and everybody suffered from chills and fever.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1867, despairing of getting well in that climate, we sold the property for what it would bring, and with but little cash but plenty of good horses and some twenty-five milch cows, we emigrated to the northern part of San Mateo County.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>I drove those cows from Marysville to Oakland alone.  Three of them had calves, which took care of their milk; three others had to be milked twice a day.  I would put them up in some stock-yard, get hold of some small boy and tell him if he wanted some milk to bring me a bucket.  I would milk my three cows, night and morning, and give the milk away.  I arrived at Benicia one evening, put up the cows, and looking around the water-front made arrangements with a steamer to ferry us across the Straits of Carquinez, to Martinez, at twenty-five cents a head.  When the cows and my saddle-horse were loaded on that dinky little boat, there was no room left.  We landed at Martinez, and I got on the proper road to Oakland, which took me through the Walnut Creek country.</P>
095.sgm:<P>This was the 5th of December, 1867, my fifteenth birthday. Just before night it began to rain very heavily.  I had a rubber coat which covered my body and a pair of leggings tied to the back of my saddle that entirely covered my legs.  With these on, I kept comparatively dry.  I was in a lane, and there was not a house in sight.  Just before dark I came to a corral, in which there was a barn with a shed on each side, with mangers in them.  A brief inspection disclosed the fact that there was plenty of hay in the barn.  I opened the gate and drove my cows in, and while it was light enough I found an old pitchfork and filled the mangers full of hay.  There was a well on the place, with a little roof over it, and notwithstanding it was raining, it seemed to me those cows wanted to drink all the water in sight.  I stood there for quite a while, drawing water for them, until they were satisfied.  On a bench by the well there was a two-gallon tin bucket.  It looked pretty clean.  I washed it out and milked my cows.  I drank all I could hold and threw the balance of the milk away.  While putting hay into the mangers I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Early in the morning I heard voices and raising my head I saw a man and boy outside, looking at the cows.  I slipped on my boots, crawled from under the cover, went over to them, and told them how I happened to be there.  The man was very pleasant to me, said he did not blame me a bit, but added, "Why didn't you come to the house?"  There was a little ravine a short distance beyond the corral, filled with growing willows and alders.  The house was about a hundred yards around the bend from this ravine, and of course the willows and alders hid it from me.  They took me to the house and I had a good break-fast.  It began to rain again.  The boy and I went out and milked the three cows and took the milk to the house. The man's name was Cochran.  He would not allow me to go on in the rain, so I stayed there that day.  Next morning it was bright and clear.  He would not charge me anything for my meals, or for sleeping at his house, but did make a small charge for the hay which my animals had used.  The boy went a couple of miles with me, to put me onto the right road, there being four or five forks at a certain place.  I reached Oakland that night and put my stock in a stockyard.  I had used up all my money, but I told the man at the stockyard my story, and told him my people would be along with a couple of wagons certainly by the next day, so he gave me money enough to get a room and my meals.  Quite early the next day the wagons pulled in.  We ferried across the bay, and that day went on to San Mateo County.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The two greyhounds I owned were with me when I drove the cattle from Marysville to Oakland.  They were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>HOW WE LIVED IN SAN MATEO COUNTY</P>
095.sgm:<P>NO LAND could be purchased at that time in San Mateo County, where we were going.  Anticipating the completion of the Central Pacific Railroad, there was a boom on there that equaled anything we ever had in Southern California.  Land clear down to San Mateo was selling at from $2,000 to $5,000 an acre, in acreage.  We leased two hundred acres of good land for $3.00 an acre per annum, on which to raise potatoes.  This land had been sold for $3,000 an acre.  The results of this boom never materialized favorably.  That country did not settle up as it was expected to, and today, the place where we lived in San Mateo County is one vast cemetery.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The principal farming in that region was potato-raising, and we made a very good living at it.  In addition to some farming land, Mr. John Parrot, a banker of San Francisco, claimed some twelve hundred acres of land, all fenced, which was mostly excellent pasture.  It was in the famous Buri-Buri Ranch, and was in litigation.  He let us have it for about the amount of taxes on it, and told us, however, not to plant any of it as he was liable to lose it, which, after two or three years, he did.</P>
095.sgm:<P>While we were living in San Mateo a great deal of driftwood used to come down the coast, also down the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, and in heavy storms it would be driven well up on the beach for, say, fifteen miles below the Cliff House.  Everybody in our neighborhood went there and got this driftwood for fire-wood.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>As we were going along, Flora, then over ten years old, spied a large buck deer in a cabbage patch.  To my knowledge she had never seen a deer, nor hunted one.  Nevertheless, she immediately took after this one.  Instinct must have taught her that he was game. She started after him.  He ran up a hill, she turned him, and he struck out for the ocean, a short distance away.  As soon as he got into the heavy beach sand she had him at her mercy, and when I reached them he was on the ground and she was holding him by the nose.  I always carried a rope with me.  Fortunately I had one about thirty feet long.  I put a noose over the deer's hind legs, then a half-hitch over each front foot, finally got them together and tied them, and then cut his throat with a jack-knife.  As soon as he bled to death I disemboweled him, which of course relieved him of considerable weight, and yet for me to get him onto my horse was quite a job.  A little way off I found a sand knoll covered with a species of ice-plant, which made it quite firm, and on one side of it the wind had hollowed out a path for quite a distance.  With the aid of my horse and the pommel of the saddle, I pulled the deer up onto this mound.  Then I got the horse down in the hole, under the mound, and finally wiggled the deer into the saddle, tied his feet underneath, and the horns and one hip to the pommel.  I got on behind and rode in that manner five or six miles to my home.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>The next day I found that I had more woodticks than any other boy in California.  In school next morning I would feel something on my neck, reach up, get one of the infernal things and put him on the floor and put my foot on him.  There were dozens of them.  Some of them succeeded in burying their heads in my flesh and had to be dug out.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>BEGINNING OF MY EDUCATION</P>
095.sgm:<P>UP TO THE TIME we migrated to San Mateo I had received but little schooling.  I do not think I had been to school for a full year, but my mother had taught me continuously.  She was an educated woman, and she and I even read a couple of books of C&aelig;sar together, using the very same text-book, dictionary and grammar that she had used in a convent in Kentucky.  There was in San Francisco, at that time, a school called the Latin School.  One of the teachers in it was Mr. Azro L. Mann.  He was a Marysville boy with whom we were well acquainted.  He told me to come to the Latin School and he would take care of me.  I started in there.  He used to bring his lunch and so did I, and during the noon hour and recesses he used to cram me very effectually.  After I had been attending that school for three months, the Latin School was consolidated with the San Francisco High School.  Without any question of my eligibility, I went along with the rest of them to the high school.  Of course I was not qualified to enter, but I have noticed that, all my life, I have been shoved into positions for which I was not qualified, and usually have made good.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I worked hard, and, with Mr. Mann's assistance, passed all my examinations and graduated from the high school in 1869 with the first class that was accredited to the University of California.  It included some men who attained great distinction afterwards.  Among them were Curtis H. Lindley, one of the foremost mining lawyers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>I could have gone with them to the University, but my parents did not feel able to send me away from home to school.  During the years that I went to the San Francisco High School I rode nearly twenty miles a day on horseback.  Not going to the University, I then went to St. Mary's College, which was on the outskirts of San Francisco and only six miles from where we lived.  I was the first graduate from St. Mary's, taking my A.B. in 1872.  I then went back and taught a Latin and Greek class, for my tuition, and in 1873 was given my A.M.  On the fortieth anniversary of my graduation I went up to St. Mary's, which is now located in Oakland, and delivered an address to the graduates, and the college conferred upon me the honorary degree of LL.D.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Every one of my fellow-graduates from the high school is dead with the exception of Frank Otis, who is an attorney at law and lives in Alameda County.  The same is true of every college mate that I had at St. Mary's.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In speaking of my not being qualified to enter the high school when I did, I want to make a confession that seems to be almost incredible.  I never studied an English grammar in my life.  Anything I know about correct speaking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>REV. BROTHER JUSTIN, PRESIDENT OF ST. MARY'S COLLEGE</P>
095.sgm:<P>I FEEL that I would be remiss in my duty to one of the best friends I ever had, if I did not say something about Reverend Brother Justin, President of St. Mary's College.  He belonged to the order of Christian Brothers founded by St. Jean Baptiste de la Salle, in 1684.  After my own parents, he was the first human being to take a deep interest in me.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I rode in to the College one day, on horseback, tied the horse to a hitching post, rang the bell, and was shown into the parlor by an attendant.  I asked if I could see Brother Justin.  In a few minutes the door opened and he bustled in.  He was a rather short man, not very stout, with piercing blue eyes, close-clipped hair, and a quick winning manner.  He was then about forty years old.  He came up to me, held out his hand and said: "Well, sir, what can I do for you?"  I told him I lived six miles from the college and desired to enter it as a day scholar.  "Good," he said, "good," and slapped me on the shoulder.  He then put me through a little examination as to my qualifications.  I told him that I had just graduated from the San Francisco High School and was qualified to go to the State University, but was not financially able to do so.  He seemed quite pleased to meet me.  I told him I was not a Catholic,and he said, "That does not make a bit of difference.  You will receive the same attention here as if you were one."</P>
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095.sgm:<P>His manner was so hearty and encouraging that I felt quite relieved and much encouraged.  It was arranged that I should enter the college on the following Monday when the fall term began.  In all my life I never saw a man with as much energy as Brother Justin.  He would have made a name for himself at any callig he adopted, had he not been in a religious order.  He was an earnest and convincing speaker.  He would have made a wonderful lawyer.  My relations with him were always extremely pleasant.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Father Gleason, the resident priest at the college, taught us, in the higher classes, Latin.  We used to go down to his room, on the first floor, to recitation.  A mischievous boy, named Gwin Maynard (a grandson of Wm. N. Gwin of Vigilante days), as I started down to classroom one day, asked me to ask Father Gleason the meaning of a Latin word.  The word was one the translation of which was not fit for polite ears.  I innocently asked him.  He found it in his dictionary and gave the four parts of the verb, and then turned around to me and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Oh, Graves, I did not think that of you!  Before you go home, translate, parse and scan the first twenty lines of that Ode of Horace beginning with the words, `Qui fit Maecenas ut nemo quam sibi sortem,' etc."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I went out on an enclosed porch adjoining the classroom, took a desk there, with grammar and lexicon, and went to work.  About five o'clock here came Brother Justin.  He slapped me on the back.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Well, well, what are you doing here?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>After making him promise me that he would not punish Gwin Maynard, I told him the whole story.  I assured him that I did not know the meaning of the word; that I supposed that Gwin could not find it in his dictionary, and knowing that Father Gleason had an immense one, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"You were innocent of any wrong," he said.  "That's a frightful task.  You will be here all night."  Then he added:  "Wait a minute.  I will send you Brother Amelian (another Latin teacher) to help you out."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He told Brother Amelian about it.  He was a good-natured German, twenty-six years old, a fine character and, unfortunately, afflicted with consumption.  He came to me laughing, poked me in the ribs, but cheered me up.  He translated the ode to me as fast as I could write it, and in a short time we finished the job.  I folded the document, addressed it to Father Gleason, and slipped it under his door.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The next day, when we went to class, Father Gleason complimented me on what I had done.  I felt guilty and remained in the room when the other boys had departed.  I then told him that Brother Amelian had helped me out.  Evidently Brother Justin had already been to see him and told him the whole story.  He then told me that he had acted hastily and hoped I would forgive him.  I replied that I felt no resentment and, under the same circumstances, would probablyhave done as he had.  We parted, and always remained, friends.  I met him, some years later, at the corner of Temple and Main streets, Los Angeles.  I laid aside my work and devoted a couple of days to showing him the beauties of our country.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I was in St. Louis at the time of the Exposition there, I think it was in 1904.  Brother Justin had been president of a number of colleges in the United States, one in New Orleans, one in Baltimore, one in New York, and at this time was located in St. Louis.  I called at his college but he was out.  I did not leave a card as I wanted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>He dismissed the gardener and we went down to his apartments on the floor below.  There were present Mr. Frank Kierce of San Francisco, a St. Mary's graduate, with whom I was acquainted, and three graduates from various colleges over which Brother Justin had presided.  He walked into the room with his arm around me.  He introduced me to all of them.  Then he said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Gentlemen, I am going to make you a confession, which you must not take in derogation of the high esteem in which I hold all of you, but this man was my first graduate at St. Mary's College in San Francisco, and I have always loved him more than any graduate I ever had," and I think he meant every word of it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Two of my sons were at St. Louis with us, and I had Brother Justin at dinner at the hotel twice.  Mrs. Graves, as well as the boys, fell in love with him, and she said to him:</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"I only wish you were close enough to us so that these boys could have the benefit of your instruction."</P>
095.sgm:<P>After Bishop Conaty came to Los Angeles I became quite well acquainted with him.  Knowing that he had been located at Baltimore, one day I said to him:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Bishop, did you ever know Brother Justin, at the head of the Christian Brothers College in Baltimore?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Know him," he replied, with great emphasis, "why, man, he is one of the greatest educators in the United States!"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him that I was very glad to hear him say it, that I was Brother Justin's first graduate from St. Mary's College in San Francisco.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Ah, ha," he said, "now I know where the good in you came from," and I guess he was largely right, because no man of proper understanding could listen to the daily exhortations, not altogether religious in character, which Brother Justin delivered to the whole school, in the general assembly room, without being permanently affected thereby.  He preached honesty, integrity, the clean life, earnest endeavor, respect for parents, due regard for the rights of others, and of course, as it was his duty, he inculcated also the doctrines of his religion.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Translating that ode stood me in good stead later on.  A young lady (long since dead), a sister of one of my schoolmates, wrote me that, in discussing St. Mary's College with quite an eminent priest, the latter said that the boys of St. Mary's did not know anything.  He offered to bet twenty-five dollars that there was not a boy there who could translate the first twenty lines of that very ode which Father Gleason had assigned to me as a task.  She accepted the bet.  We had recently translated the entire ode in the classroom.  She called on me to win her bet.  Father Gleason allowed me to make the translation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>MY STORY--"SWEENEY--A CAMEL, A BUFFALO AND A COW"</P>
095.sgm:<P>WHEN I attended the San Francisco High School, besides riding twenty miles a day on horseback I had other duties to perform.  I have spoken of a thousand-acre tract which we held possession of from Mr. John Parrot of San Francisco.  We pastured horses and cattle on it.  I continually led horses, and sometimes drove cows, back and forth.  This led up to an adventure with a camel which I fully described in a story written for John S. McGroarty's West Coast Magazine some years ago.  I will here reproduce it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>SWEENEY--A CAMEL, A BUFFALO AND A COW</P>
095.sgm:<P>BY J. A. GRAVES</P>
095.sgm:<P>From 1868 until 1876 my parents were residing in San Mateo County, about eleven miles from San Francisco.  During that time I attended the San Francisco High School in that city.  I traveled the eleven miles from my home to the city twice a day on horseback.  We rented from Mr. John Parrot, a banker, about 1,000 acres of land, upon which grew the most luxurious crop of clover and Alfilaria imaginable.  In fact, the pasture was so good that it paid us better to take in stock for pasturage, than to farm the land, especially as considerable of it was quite hilly.  We got $5.00 per month for pasturing horses and $3.00 a month for cows.  In addition to attending school, I was called upon to take stock back and forth from the city to the ranch.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>A man named Sweeney kept a stock-yard at Tenth and Mission streets in San Francisco.  He knew everybody of any consequence in the city.  He kept me supplied with pedigreed animals, whose owners desired that they be turned out to graze occasionally for their health.  Some wandering showman had left on Sweeney's hands a camel and a buffalo.  Sweeney conceived the idea that I ought to have these animals.  He wanted to be rid of them and he decided upon me as the person who should take them off his hands.  Every time I stopped at his place, he extolled the virtues of the camel and the buffalo.  He wanted to make me a present of them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Think of it," he said, "what boy in America is the proud possessor of a camel and a buffalo?  Every boy in the land will be jealous of you.  You might even ride the camel.  I am sure you would enjoy doing so."</P>
095.sgm:<P>With honeyed words he cajoled me. Finally he made me a present of the beasts against my will.  I appreciated the kindness of Sweeney in furnishing stock for our pasture.  I even confess that the ownership of these animals aroused a certain pride in my breast.  Finally I broached the subject to my father and asked his consent to bring them home.  He denounced Sweeney in no uncertain terms as a crafty scoundrel, who was trying to work off a gold brick on me.  He denounced the animals as nuisances.  He denounced me, as possessing less brains than I was born with, and forbade my having anything to do with either the camel or the buffalo.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Why, you mutton-head," he said, "if you ever start out on the road with one of those animals, you will scare everything in seven counties to death."</P>
095.sgm:<P>With a sorrowful heart I told Sweeney that my father would not have it.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"But," he replied, "they are your animals.  I gave them to you and you must take them away.  I cannot feed them any longer."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Life became a burden to me.  I began to fall down in my Latin.  Some way or other my algebra work fell off, and I became demoralized in all my studies.  I did not want to go near Sweeney's, but I had to, because he always had horses or cows to send to the ranch.  Sweeney became even kinder to me as a solicitor for pasturing stock.  With wealthy patrons he even raised the price a couple of dollars a month.  Then he would rub it into me, telling me how good he was to me, and complained that I would not do him the small favor of removing my own animals from his premises.</P>
095.sgm:<P>At last he told me that he would have to throw his pasturage patronage to some other quarter, unless I took the camel and buffalo home with me.  Finally, goaded to desperation, on my way home from school one afternoon, I told him to bring on his camel and I would take her home.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I was riding a very spirited, well-bred, nervous five-year-old mare.  She stood facing the barn door, which was even with the sidewalk.  An attendant went into the corral and started out with the camel through the barn.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I wish I could describe the beast as she appeared to me then.  She had just begun to shed off her winter coat.  She was ragged and dirty.  She carried her head and nose extended on a level with her back.  That sneering expression that all camels have, it seemed to me, was strongly emphasized on this camel's face.  She came along with that swinging motion common to her race, a picture of humility and despair.</P>
095.sgm:<P>As she came toward the door, I felt my mare sort of crouch down, backward.  She snorted with terror, and as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>A man named Morton did nearly all of the draying business in San Francisco in those days.  A long string of his drays was returning home out on Howard Street.  I could not stop my horse.  In her terror she attempted to jump over a moving dray, lit on it, slipped, tripped and fell, carrying me with her.  I jumped up and caught her by the bridle.  She had strained one of her front shoulders so badly she could hardly put her foot on the ground.  I got her back to Sweeney's.  He wasn't discouraged.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I have it," he said.  "Ride one of my horses.  We will put your mare in a corral with the camel, and when she gets well, she and the camel will be great friends."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I changed my saddle onto a cow pony.  My mare was turned into an inner corral, and the camel was put in with her.  Notwithstanding her injury, the mare ran and plunged and acted as if demented.  In her crippled condition she found she could not jump out or break the fence.  She finally quieted down and got into a corner of the corral just as far as possible from the camel, trembling and terror-stricken.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I went home on Sweeney's horse and told my father a weird tale about my horse having slipped on the rail-road track and hurting her leg.  I think my father was a little suspicious, because he asked me if I had tried to "lead that d--n camel home."  Of course I vowed I had not.  It was fully ten days before my mare was fit to ride again.  True to Sweeney's prediction, she and the camel and the buffalo had become warm friends.  One Friday afternoon was fixed as the day upon which I should again attempt to take the camel home.  I rode out to Sweeney's, took my saddle and bridle into the corral, put them on my mare, and rode into another corral nearer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"THE FIRST OBJECT WE MET WAS A MILKMAN"</P>
095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE BLINDFOLDED HORSE OF THE POLICEMAN. . . . DARTED OFF AT FULL SPEED AND RAN INTO THE OPEN DOOR OF A CHINAMAN'S WASH HOUSE</P>
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095.sgm:<P>As I started out Mission Street, those of you who have seen a camel in motion can draw a mental picture of the ungainly, shiftless, swaying picture that the beast made.  The first object we met was a milkman hurrying rapidly along, driving two smart-looking horses.  They either smelled or saw that camel.  Then "the band began to play."  Resisting every effort of the driver, they swung off to the left at a right-angle.  The entire block between Tenth, Eleventh, Mission and Howard streets was vacant, but surrounded by a board fence.  Next to Mission Street, the sidewalk and lot had been filled in after the fence was built, so that the fence was only about three feet high.  Over the sidewalk and over this fence went the team.  One wheel mounted the fence.  The tongue was wrenched from the wagon.  The horses, dragging the tongue and double-trees, went off in a mad whirl into the vacant lot.  The milk cans were tossed out, and milk ran in every direction.  The driver of the wagon was not hurt, but my, he was mad!</P>
095.sgm:<P>The camel surveyed the wreck with unruffled serenity.  That thing's face had the most innocent, unaffected, idiotic expression ever borne by an animal.  Her poor little eyes were almost invisible.  Her sarcastic smile never left her.  Supercilious contempt for her surroundings was shown by her every action.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>I hurried on, and the next occupant of the street we met was a dead wagon from an undertaking establishment.  I tried to hide the camel by keeping my horse between her and the wagon.  The effort was useless.  The horses stopped, sniffed the air, snorted and broke at a perfect right-angle, into the sidewalk and over the fence, just as the milk wagon had done.</P>
095.sgm:<P>This time the team went off with the two front wheels.  The black box on the wagon slipped into the street and spilled the coffin onto the sidewalk.  Pedestrians began to gather, and I heard them denounce any idiot who would attempt to lead a camel through the street in daylight.</P>
095.sgm:<P>A one-horse street car line ran out Mission Street.  Each horse had on it a couple of sleigh bells.  The car came along, toward the east.  I was going west.  I congratulated myself that I was going to pass it safely; but, alas, I was too soon in my prediction.  Just before I got alongside of it, that poor old horse spied us.  Then, as if electrified, he made one of those famous right-angle bolts, away from my side of the street.  The driver hung onto the reins for a time.  The horse wrenched the single-tree from the car.  Then the driver let go.  Over the sidewalk, and over that fence went the horse, with head and tail up, and terror in his heart, he pranced away, looking back over his shoulder at my camel.  As our distinguished ex-president would put it, I was having a "bully time."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I moved along a few feet, when I met two firemen in the Chief's wagon.  I hugged the sidewalk on the right-hand side of the street, keeping my horse well up opposite the camel, but no use.  The "fire hoss" was "on" in an instant.  Terror-stricken, he reared up, sprung to the right, making a sharp right-angle turn.  Over went the buggy.  The firemen were both dumped into the street.  The horse cleared the sidewalk, jumped the low board <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>All of those horses, dragging portions of wrecked vehicles, would come up on the run, wheel, take another look at the camel, and away they would go, circling around the block in wild disorder.  They paid no attention whatever to the impediments attached to them.  They seemed to want one more look at the camel.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The next thing we met was a two-horse wagon, loaded with baled hay.  I thought surely I would get by this all right, but no use; the team sniffed us.  They right-angled with that heavy load, which upset at the curb.  They stopped for an instant, when a wheel struck the fence.  Something broke loose, and they joined the stampede inside the fence.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Two more milk wagons came past us.  They were being driven side by side, the drivers gossiping as they clattered along.  Nothing I have already described equaled the mix-up that followed that right-angle bolt that the four animals attached to these wagons made.  Horses, wagons and milk cans piled up on the sidewalk in wildest confusion.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Terror on my part added speed to our flight.  I hurried my horse into a quick gallop, and the camel stayed with me.  We had just crossed Twelfth Street when a mounted policeman came galloping along from towards Tenth Street.  He ordered me to halt.  But long before he got within striking distance, his horse turned tail and fled.  He stopped somewhere, got a sack, blindfolded his horse, and came running up, swinging his club and declaring he would run me in.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Give me that camel," he cried, "and I will get it off the street."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I handed him the rope with the greatest pleasure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>But the camel demurred.  Did you ever hear a camel wail?  Just imagine a peacock's cry, mingled with a coyote's call, crossed with the noise of the worst ear-splitting automobile horn ever invented, and you have it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When I gave the policeman the rope by which I was leading the camel, I began to move off pretty rapidly toward home.  The poor camel knew my horse and did not want to part company with us, so she just stuck out her head and wailed.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The blindfolded horse of the policeman happened to be headed toward the sidewalk.  He darted off at full speed and ran into the open door of a Chinaman's wash-house, throwing the policeman off as he entered.  The policeman lost his hold on the lead rope and the camel came lumbering along after me.  Every animal in the street was in the wildest disorder.  The camel soon got up with me.  I dismounted, tied her firmly to a post on the sidewalk, and fled out Mission Street as fast as my horse could run.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The papers next morning gave a full and ludicrous account of the proceedings, and stated that the policeman took the camel, much against its will, to "Woodward's Gardens," a noted resort and show place of that period.  When I left San Francisco she was still there, and many times afterwards I fed her with peanuts.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I avoided Sweeney's place as one avoids a pestilence.  I even quit traveling on Mission Street.  I rode in and out on Valencia Street.  One morning as I was galloping along at Tenth and Valencia streets, some one hailed me.  It was Sweeney.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Whin are you coming for the buffalo?" he cried.  I made no reply and fled.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>But spring was at hand.  The grass on the ranch never was better.  The supply of stock was running low, so it was necessary to see Sweeney.  One day I stopped in on him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He immediately wanted to know when I was going to remove my other animal.  It seems he never learned what had become of the camel.  I told him of all the disasters, created almost under his nose, through my efforts to take the camel home, informed him where the camel was and suggested that possibly the management at "Woodward's Gardens" would be glad to have the buffalo.  He was pleased with the suggestion.  The next time I stopped at his place he was all smiles.  The "Woodward Garden" people not only took the buffalo, but paid him quite a little sum for him, enough to recoup him for the board of both animals.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Shortly after this he told me one day that Mr. Con O'Sullivan had a very fine cow that he wanted me to take to the ranch.  Con O'Sullivan was a paint merchant, a close friend of the bonanza kings, and had made a great fortune in his business and through investments in the Comstock Mining Companies.  He lived in a palace on Bush Street.</P>
095.sgm:<P>One day after school I went up there.  I went in at the side entrance, found a female domestic in the yard, and told her I had come for Mr. O'Sullivan's cow.  She told me that she knew nothing about it, that the cows were out there, pointing.</P>
095.sgm:<P>O'Sullivan had about half a block occupied by his stables and cow corral.  I went out there and found two cows.  One of them was a red roan Durham that Sweeney had described to me.  I threw a rope onto her and took her home.</P>
095.sgm:<P>It seems that O'Sullivan had a way of prowling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The cow was not recovered.  About a month afterwards, O'Sullivan was passing Sweeney's place and stopping, he said to him:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Sweeney, old man, it is bad luck I have been having."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"What's the matter?" said Sweeney.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Somebody has stolen my red roan cow that I bought from you."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Thereupon Sweeney laid back and laughed heartily.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Why, Con, nobody has stolen your cow."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Well, at any rate, she's gone, and I can't find her," said O'Sullivan.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then Sweeney laughed again, and finally told him that the cow was in the San Mateo hills, enjoying herself, and that he had sent me over to get her.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The following Sunday, the entire O'Sullivan family appeared at our place in two carriages--father, mother, half-grown children and babies.  Nothing would do but the cow must be driven up.  They all embraced her and petted her, and were very much pleased to find that she was in great condition and happily situated.  She stayed with us some months.  When she went home, do you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Four years later, when I was attending St. Mary's College and was returning with the boys from some excursion across the Bay, I went home with one of Mr. O'Sullivan's sons for dinner.  During the meal I asked the head of the house if he did not at one time own a handsome red roan Durham cow.  He spoke with a pretty strong brogue, which I cannot transfer to paper.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I did that, and I have her yet.  She is out in the yard," he replied.  "I almost had heart disease one time when I thought some one had stolen her."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He then went on and related the whole story.  After he finished I told him I was the boy who had "lifted" the cow.  He looked at me a moment and then said, with great earnestness:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"It's well for you that I did not catch you in the act, me not understanding the circumstances, or you wouldn't be here now."</P>
095.sgm:<P>And I guess he meant what he said.  After dinner we paid a visit to the cow, who, barring her added years, was just as handsome and well-kept as the day I hurried out the Mission Road.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I have always had, unbeknown to me at the time, corroboration for about everything I have ever written.  Two days after the story of Sweeney's camel came out, a man named Wolff, whom I recognized the moment he walked in, called on me at the bank.  I remembered him and he remembered me as a San Francisco high school boy.  He was then an architect, living at Pomona, and he told me that he lived not very far from Sweeney's stock yard; that many a time he had gone there and cleaned out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>A day or two afterwards, Mr. J. Wiseman McDonald, an attorney of this city, called me up.  I had said that it was Mr. Con O'Connor who owned the cow mentioned in the article.  Mr. McDonald said: "You are wrong in that.  It was Con O'Sullivan, the father of my wife.  She remembers all about the camel incident."</P>
095.sgm:<P>In reproducing the article here, I have changed the name from O'Connor to O'Sullivan.</P>
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095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>SPENT MY VACATIONS AT HARD WORK GRADUATED FROM COLLEGE.  BEGAN THE STUDY OF LAW IN SAN FRANCISCO</P>
095.sgm:<P>DURING the time that I was attending both the San Francisco High School and St. Mary's College, while many of my wealthy schoolmates spent their vacations gloriously, with trips to the mountains or to the seashore, or on short ocean voyages, I put in my time helping out the family larder.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When I was seventeen I was a good husky boy and could drive a team and haul freight.  Where we lived it was the fashion to hitch up five-horse instead of six-horse teams.  We put three horses abreast on the end of the wagon tongue in front of the wheelers.  Five horses, so arranged, will pull just as big a load as would six horses, hitched the old way.  Some of our neighbors did not have horses enough to move all of their crops.  I would take a five-horse team and haul four tons of produce to San Francisco, and get $4.00 per ton for doing the work, or $16.00 per day--good wages for the service rendered.  By starting early, I got in one trip a day for weeks at a time.</P>
095.sgm:<P>What an appetite that work gave me!  I did not need a movie, or any other form of amusement, at night.  My bed, at quite an early hour, was very alluring.  I never turned over, from the time I went to sleep until I was ready to get up next morning.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>My earnings in this manner helped out considerably.  My mother used to say that I helped make the family living from the time I was six years old.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The summer I was nineteen, I went into the San Joaquin Valley for a neighbor of ours, who was farming extensively there, and received $7.50 a day for running a header in a grain field.  I worked sixty-three successive days, never stopping for Sundays.  Eight hours was not then a fashionable working day.  We began at sun-up and quit at sun-down.  At the end of the sixty-three days I had to return to college.  I will never forget those days.  I drew my pay for the entire sixty-three days at one time.  The weather was frightfully hot.  I had two pairs of overalls and two jumpers, and wore no underclothing.  I wore brogans on my feet, without socks.  With socks on, barley beards would get into them and they were most uncomfortable.  My bare feet soon got tough, and I could have my shoes full of barley beards and chaff, and not feel them.  I would wash out a jumper and a pair of overalls two or three times a week, hang them in the sun, and they would be dry in ten minutes.  This was the worst job I ever had in my life, but youth, when in perfect health, can stand anything.</P>
095.sgm:<P>As stated in a previous chapter, I took my degree as Master of Arts at St. Mary's in 1873.  The graduating exercises were at Platt's Hall in San Francisco and were largely attended.  The next day I rigged up two good mowing machines each carrying a five-foot blade, hired a Mexican to run one of them, hooked up four good horses, two to each machine, and went around cutting hay at $1.25 per acre.  There was an immense crop in the neighborhood at the time.  By working long hours, each machine averaged ten acres a day.  In addition to the $1.25 per acre, we and our teams were boarded by our employers.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>My father took orders for us, and before a job was finished he would tell us where to move to.  He also collected for the work.  The hay cutting was finished by July first.  After paying the Mexican his wages and paying for some new mowing machine knives, we had $820.00 left.  I got $410.00 of it for my share.  I never cost my parents one cent from that time on.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On July 8th, 1873, I entered the office of Eastman &amp; Neumann, Attorneys at Law, in San Francisco, as clerk and student.  Their office was over Donahue &amp; Kelly's Bank, at the southeast corner of Sacramento and Montgomery streets.  I rented a room on the top floor of the Stevenson Building, corner of California and Montgomery streets, for a reasonable sum.  Living in San Francisco--that is, one's meals--was extremely cheap.  I deposited my money with an old notary public, named Philip Mahler, who had an office in a semi-basement under the Donahue &amp; Kelly Bank.  He had a large safe, and would dole the money out to me as I needed it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Two weeks after I went into the office, the firm had a disagreement with their head clerk and they dismissed him.  That left the entire work of the office on my shoulders.  I was, of course, a green hand.  It staggered me at first, but I overcame it, as I learned rapidly, and satisfied my employers.  I read law in the office every night until at least eleven o'clock.</P>
095.sgm:<P>My funds were running exceedingly low and I had to purchase some clothing.  I had made a little money out of collections which the firm turned over to me.  Nothing had been said about my remuneration.  When I had been with the firm five months, Mr. Eastman one day gave me a check for one thousand dollars on a near-by bank and told me to bring in the money in twenty-dollar gold-pieces.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"How long have you been here?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him, "Five months."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Have you had any money from us in that time?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him, "No."</P>
095.sgm:<P>There was a newspaper lying in front of him, on his desk.  He picked up some of the twenty-dollar gold-pieces and dropped them onto the paper, counting as he did so.  He stopped at $200.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Take that," he said, "and hereafter your pay will be $60.00 a month, and you see that you get it."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I thanked him and gathered up the money.  My heart was going like a trip-hammer.  I have made a few dollars since, sometimes in large sums, but that $200.00 looked bigger to me than any sum I have ever seen since.  The next day was Sunday, and I took that money home with me to show to my mother, and I gave her forty dollars of it.  The remainder I needed.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The days and weeks, and even the months, sped by rapidly.  I was acquiring knowledge, not only of law but of men, every minute of the day.  I was getting practice which the books cannot teach one.  Among Mr. Paul Neumann's clients (he was the other member of the firm of Eastman &amp; Neumann) were some of the wealthiest business houses, mostly wholesale, then in San Francisco.  I had to go to their private offices frequently.  One thing made a deep impression on me.  In nearly every office I went into, on one of the walls thereof was a framed lithograph picture of a large prosperous-looking man of Jewish persuasion, with heavy flowing side-whiskers, a big cigar in his mouth, large diamond in his shirt-front, rings on his fingers, his thumbs in the armholes of his vest, and a very pleased expression on his face.  Printed beneath <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I have frequently sold and repented.  My good old friend, Mr. I. W. Hellman, told me one time, after I had related this story to him, that the reason I had accumulated something was because I "sold and repented."  As he put it, "the man who wants the last drop in the bucket usually gets left."  I have always believed that if one sells and makes a reasonable profit, even if what he sells goes still higher, one should not complain, but buy something else and take a profit on it when the opportunity offers.</P>
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095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>THE SAN FRANCISCO BAR BETWEEN 1870-1880</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN THE DECADE from 1870 to 1880, San Francisco had a very able Bar, one that would compare with that of any city in America.  The gold rush brought educated young men to California, lawyers, physicians, engineers and scholars, and California developed all of them.  Some of the lawyers mined for a short time and then took up the practice of their profession, and the leaders of the bar drifted to San Francisco.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1873, when I entered Eastman &amp; Neumann's office, McAllister &amp; Bergin were the acknowledged leaders of the San Francisco Bar.  However, as far as grandeur of character, legal learning and ability, and general standing were concerned, Samuel M. Wilson was the peer of any lawyer there.  In mentioning the great lawyers of the day, John B. Felton, who also had great literary and oratorical ability, must not be overlooked.  Then there were General Joseph P. Hoge, Wm. H. Patterson, Creed Haymond, Alexander Campbell, I. N. Thorne, Nathaniel Bennett, W. C. Burnett, Walter Van Dyke (who spent many of the latter years of his life in Los Angeles), Harry I. Thornton, Thomas R. Bishop, John Garber, John H. Boalt, Col. W. H. L. Barnes, the Dwinelle brothers, John W. and Samuel H., Solomon Sharp, Reuben H. Lloyd, Wm. S. Wood, Clarence R. Greathouse, whose firm was Greathouse, Blanding &amp; Tevis--all of whom were able men, well deserving a prominent place in the niche of fame with the great lawyers of America.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The first time I met Mr. Wm. H. Herrin, lately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Sidney F. Smith was a lawyer of high standing, as was also Hon. W. W. Morrow (still living), who for many years was judge of the United States Circuit Court and the United States Circuit Court of Appeals for the San Francisco District; likewise his partner and father-in-law, Judge Latimer.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In calling the roll of the San Francisco attorneys of that era, I have no intention of omitting Solomon Hydenfeldt, Judge J. D. Thornton, John F. Swift, E. B. Mastick, Oliver P. Evans, Senator Eugene Casserly, Henry E. Highton, James M. Shafter, A. A. Cohen, W. W. Foote, Eugene Duprey, Wymans &amp; Belknap, Pringle &amp; Pringle, Jarboe &amp; Harrison, Elisha Cook, Leander Quint, Judge Delos Lake, Benjamin F. Brooks, Joseph Phelan and Sid Baldwin, both of whom were in Patterson's office.  Then there was Geo. W. Tyler, brilliant, but in character and standing not to be included in the foregoing lists.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There were many able judges there, including E. D. Wheeler, E. B. McKinistry, Wm. T. Wallace, Judge Morrison, Samuel Bell McKee, Judge Ogden Hoffman of the U. S. District Court.  A firm of wide reputation and excellent standing was Naphthaly, Friedenrich &amp; Ackerman.  Their business was largely commercial.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The most beloved of all the lawyers there was dear old Paul Neumann, of Eastman &amp; Neumann.  He was so constituted that he took life and the law as a joke, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The following story will illustrate his diplomacy in getting favors from opposing counsel.  He had appeared and demurred for a defendant in a case.  The demurrer was overruled.  The attorney for the plaintiff had given him three different extensions of twenty days each, sixty days in all, and the time was getting short.  Whenever Paul wanted a man to do him a favor, instead of going to the man, he sent for him to come over to his office, that he wanted to see him on some particular business.  On this occasion he sent for the attorney for the plaintiff, who came over.  Paul plead for more time.  The attorney said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Paul, I would like to accommodate you, but my client wants this matter settled, and I simply cannot give you any more time.  Now, you must answer."</P>
095.sgm:<P>They parted good-naturedly.  Paul immediately drew an order giving him twenty days more within which to answer.  He told me to go up to Judge McKee's court room, he being judge of the third district.  His court room was on the top floor of the Mercantile Library Building, on Post Street, between Montgomery and Kearny.  Paul cautioned me that if there was any proceeding on, I should not bother the judge but sit still until he was unoccupied, and then present him the stipulation, telling him that he, Mr. Neumann, was very anxious for him to sign it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When I reached the court room there was an action in ejectment on trial.  Hall McAllister, Ben Brooks and W. H. Patterson representedthe plaintiff; Sam Wilson and two or three other able attorneys the defendants.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:was quite a valuable piece of property, down on Brannen Street.  The defendant relied for title to a portion of the property solely on the statute of limitations, and considerable evidence had been introduced as to occupation at an early date.  Just as I came into the court room they called a witness to the stand who said his name was Mike Kelly.  Asked his occupation, he said he was a hostler at McCord &amp; Malone's Livery Stable, which was not far from the court room, and he looked the part.  He was asked when he came to California, and he said in 1850.  Asked what he had done in the meantime, he said he had been a hostler ever since he came to California.  In response to further questions, he testified that in 1851 or 1852, I forget which, he was working in a livery stable on Brannen Street.  There was a map on the wall, and the particular land in question was shown to him.  He recognized the streets, recognized the property, and they asked him when a fence was built there.  He answered, giving the day of the month, in 1852.  Asked how he fixed the date, he said he had a memorandum book in his pocket which fixed it.  He was called upon to produce it.  It was a ragged-looking old book, about the size of an ordinary bank deposit book, showing age and wear and tear.  After considerable wrangling, he was allowed to refer to the memorandum that fixed his date.  He turned to a certain page, and then testified that he had the first thoroughbred female terrier that ever came to San Francisco, and that on the day that he had testified that the fence was built he had mated her with a male terrier dog of high pedigree; that as he took his animal to where the other dog was housed, the posts had been erected and they were nailing on the boards; that he knew the man doing the work and stopped and talked with him; that the man had admired his dog and he, Kelly, had asked the man who he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The defense here turned the witness over to the plaintiff's attorney.  In my experience, I have seen few cross-examinations that were of any value.  Mr. Hall McAllister took Mike in hand, and, I am sure, did not help his case any.  He traced Mike's career through various livery stables in San Francisco, and then, evidently to show that he was a worthless fellow, asked him what he had done with his earnings.  Objection was made to the question, but Judge McKee finally allowed it in, and Mike answered, with a brogue:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Oh, I saved it, and the priest told me to buy real estate."</P>
095.sgm:<P>McAllister asked him if he still had it.  He replied that he owned block so and so, up on Kearny Street, and he mentioned three or four other properties, which would put him in almost the millionaire class.  McAllister finally dropped him and Mike started from the witness stand.  Judge McKee, who had been taking notes of the testimony (he always talked with his teeth closed), after Mike left the stand, looked up and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Hold on, Mike."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mike stopped in the aisle.  The judge finished making a note and then, looking up at Mike, said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Mike, did the bitch have pups?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mike replied, "She did.  Siven of 'em."</P>
095.sgm:<P>After the laugh that followed subsided, the court adjourned.  I presented my order to Judge McKee and he signed it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Paul Neumann came nearer taking life as a joke than any other man I ever met.  He seemed to have no idea of financial responsibility.  He had no objections to being dunned, would jolly the collectors and put them off in as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Oh, Billy, come in a week from Friday and I will pay that bill."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Well, Paul," Billy said, "you told me that two weeks ago."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Did I?" he replied.  "Then come three weeks from Friday."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then, reaching for his hat and cane, he put his arm around Billy's shoulders and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Now, Billy, if you have a quarter in your clothes, we will go and take a drink."</P>
095.sgm:<P>One rainy Saturday he wrote a note to Mr. David Cahn, who was then in charge of the London &amp; Paris Bank, several blocks from us, and told me he hated to send me out, but there was a note that must be delivered, and asked me to wait for a reply.  I asked for Mr. Cahn and they showed me to his private office.  There were several of the bank officials with him.  I handed him the note.  He read it to himself, then burst out laughing and read it aloud to his companions.  I could not help hearing the contents.  The note ran about as follows:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Dear Davie:</P>
095.sgm:<P>Enclosed find my note for $500.  Please send me the money by the bearer.  I expect in a short time to be able to pay you all I owe you."</P>
095.sgm:<P>They all laughed heartily.  I have no idea what he owed the bank at the time, but Mr. Cahn sent for the money, gave it to me in gold, had me receipt for it at the bottom of Neumann's note, and I returned to the office through one of the heaviest rains in my experience.  When I got there, dripping, and shaking the water off of myself and my umbrella, I handed the money to Paul, who again <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"This is not on salary.  This is for sending you out on a day like this," he said.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Taking his hat, coat and umbrella, he said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Now I am going to the Verein (a fashionable German club) and play a little poker."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He had a most estimable wife.  Her mother was pure Castilian and her father was a German physician, and she was one of the most beautiful women in San Francisco.  They had several small children.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Returning home quite late one night, hoping to get to bed without Mrs. Neumann hearing him, and having no light, he stumbled over a chair.  She awoke in fright and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Is that you, Paul?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>He replied, "My dear madam, whom else would you expect at this time of night?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>On another occasion he had come in pretty late and she called to him sleepily:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"What time is it, Paul?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"A quarter of twelve," he answered.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Just then the clock boomed out three heavy strokes.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Mrs. Neumann, "that's a nice quarter of twelve."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"My dear," he replied, "since when was it that three was not a quarter of twelve?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Paul subsequently was appointed Attorney General for the Sandwich Islands, through the influence of Mr. Claus Spreckels.  He remained there and made quite a large amount of money, which, however, he did not keep.  On one occasion Mr. J. M. Griffith, my father-in-law, and Mrs. Griffith were going to Honolulu.  Paul had been in San Francisco and was returning on the same steamer.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>He had a peculiarly bright brain, and with application would have made a very profound lawyer.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The lawyers I have mentioned as the leaders of the San Francisco Bar would have done credit to the Bar in any city in America.  Every last one of them, except Judge Morrow, if I am not mistaken, has passed to his eternal reward.  Let us hope it was just and ample.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In October, 1910, I delivered, in Los Angeles, an address before the State Bar Association of California, entitled, "Reminiscences of the San Francisco Bar."  In it I distinctly stated that I confined my remarks to the men whom I personally knew.  It was printed in full in the West Coast Magazine, in April, 1911.  Every lawyer in San Francisco and Los Angeles was presented with a copy of it, and it was very highly commended.  In the address, in speaking of conditions in San Francisco in 1873, I said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"No city of its size in the world had an abler bar than San Francisco in 1873.  She had just come into her commercial supremacy.  The wholesale trade of the entire coast was hers.  The boom inaugurated by the completion of the Central Pacific Railroad Company, a few years before, had not yet subsided.  The bonanza kings, Flood, O'Brien, Mackey and Fair, were spending their wealth in that city with a prodigality confined to the newly rich.  They reared palaces on Nob Hill for their personal use.  They erected commercial palaces on the leading business streets.  They inaugurated new industries to find an outlet for their wealth.  Gambling in mining stocks, as then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Beautiful edifices, with gilded domes and lacquered walls, were reared in which to worship God.  Almost in their shadows, palaces of sin flourished.  On the one hand was Christianity, on the other the heathenism of an extensive Chinese colony; here religion, there atheism; here piety, there irreverence; here virtue, there vice; here assembled the followers of the meek and lowly Son of God; there gathered the scoffers at all things Divine.  Wealthy men in high life set at naught the laws of God and man, and wallowed in debauchery.  The tongues of scandal wrecked homes, blasted reputations, separated families and scarred the lives of innocent children.  Common-law wives were more numerous that penitents at the cross.  It became a regular thing for the will of a wealthy man to recite that the testator had but one wife, and that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Notwithstanding their palatial city homes, captains of industry who had reaped fortunes in prosperous enterprises, built expensive country homes within a radius of from 20 to 50 miles of the city.  Money was in active circulation.  Labor was freely employed at good wages.  It was "on with the dance, let joy be unconfined," everywhere.  Financial caution was thrown to the winds in the wild whirlwind of speculation.  The failure of the Bank of California in 1875, the death of Ralston, the collapse of fortunes, the sweeping aside of vast accumulations, brought temporary disaster to the business world.  A new order of things evolved from the wreck.  The financial ship righted itself, and a bigger, better, more substantial city grew out of the soberer, sounder financial conditions which followed, only to be destroyed in the great catastrophe of 1906.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Out of all this mad whirl, the bar flourished.  The building up of the city until it had attained the position I have described, afforded business of a legal nature, which attracted to San Francisco the best-equipped minds of the country.  Notwithstanding the fact that the picture I have drawn of conditions in San Francisco at that time is a true one, there were hosts of noble men and women residing there.  The wildly profligate ones were the exceptions."</P>
095.sgm:<P>San Francisco was at that time very prosperous.  The wealth of the Comstock lode, including millions and millions of dollars derived from stock speculations on the San Francisco stock exchange, had been poured into her lap.  The foundations of the old Palace Hotel were just being laid.  The excavations made for it formed a most stupendous hole, and in the bottom of it they made a solid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Kearny and Montgomery streets were the leading retail streets and were quite well built up with four and five-story buildings, none of which had elevators.  All the courts, and there were many of them, appeared to me to be located upon the top floor of some building recently constructed, and many were the weary trips that I had to make to them.  The wholesale business was from Sansome down to the water-front.  The brokers who operated on the San Francisco exchange made a great deal of money and spent it freely.  Times were good and prosperity universal.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>EXPERIENCES IN EASTMAN &amp; NEUMANN'S OFFICE.  COLLECTION OF $5,000 FEE IN CHINATOWN AT NIGHT TIME.  TRAPPING A PETTY THIEF.  REMOVAL TO LOS ANGELES IN 1875</P>
095.sgm:<P>MY DUTIES in Eastman &amp; Neumann's office were multifarious.  I kept the books, made collections for the firm, paid all bills against the office, and divided the remainder between my employers.  I kept the registry of actions and the daily diary.  When I would remind Mr. Neumann of something he had to do that day, he would rail at the diary, and jocularly say he wished I would burn it up.  Being dilatory in his habits, he was always behind in his work.  Mr. Eastman was just the opposite.  He was always on time and kept his work well in hand.  I also had to serve upon opposing counsel copies of pleadings, notices of motions, and briefs.  Frequently I would visit the courts on the days when demurrers were argued.  I would get all of Neumann's demurrers passed for as long a period as possible.  Failing in doing so, I would submit the demurrers without argument, and they would be overruled from the bench.  Then Paul would keep me busy getting stipulations extending his time to plead.</P>
095.sgm:<P>One incident that occurred while I was with Eastman &amp; Neumann in San Francisco, is worth relating.  Mr. Eastman had been employed to defend a Chinaman who had been indicted at Stockton for murder.  He had received a $2,500 fee, and held the agreement of some Chinese merchants to pay him $5,000 additional should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>At eight o'clock I was promptly on hand.  The Chinaman had the $5,000 in silver, in trade dollars.  It was in five sacks, each weighing seventy-six pounds.  But he was a good sport.  He gave a sack of dollars to as many different men, and told me to go ahead, and he followed them.  We went to the office.  I had them stack the money up in a corner and, of course, I never left there that night.  I kept up a roaring fire, put on my overcoat, and occasionally dozed.  It seemed to me that neither Eastman nor Neumann would ever get around the next morning.  They came in about ten o'clock, but as people began to come into the office before that, I took my overcoat and covered up the money with it.  The first thing Eastman said to me was:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Buzz, did you get that $5,000?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I did not say a word, but beckoned to him, walked into the front room, lifted up my overcoat, and showed him the money.  I then informed him that I had stayed up with it all night.  He got some one to take the money to the bank and dismissed me for the day with a twenty dollar gold-piece.  I went straight to my room and had a good sleep.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Another incident which happened in the office is worthy of mention.  After I had been with Eastman &amp; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"I think you are on the right track.  Keep watch of him, and if anything unusual occurs, notify the office."</P>
095.sgm:<P>As stated before, I studied law at night, in the office, frequently until 11 o'clock.  Occasionally this man Armstrong would come to the office, say, along about seven or eight o'clock.  We had three rooms.  Mr. Neumann occupied the corner room, facing on California and Montgomery streets.  Then came the reception room, where I held forth, and east of it was quite a large room, which had the library in it and where Mr. Eastman had a working desk.  There was a door out of each room into the hall of the building.  After talking awhile, Armstrong would always say he wanted to look at some authority, go into Eastman's room, light the light there, stay there a while, and then come back through my office.  A day or two after I had seen Chief of Police Stone, he came up again, as he had formerly done.  Making excuses as to an authority, he went into Eastman's office, lit the gas, stayed a short time, then came back into the reception room, and finally went out through the main entrance.  After he had gone I went into Mr. Eastman's office and found that the spring lock on the door had been fastened back by a little catch, which held it in place, so that anybody could walk <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>It was a pitiable case.  He broke down and told Eastman he had sold the books to one Choinski, who dealt in new and second-hand law-books.  He went with an officer and Eastman to the store, selected every book which he had sold, and they were returned to the office.  They were all plainly marked with Eastman's name, or Mr. Neumann's, or the firm name.  Eastman did not prosecute him, but left him in jail until he could communicate with his folks back in Ohio, whom Eastman knew well and who were quite well-to-do.  They sent sufficient money to take him back east, the charge which had been made against him was dismissed, he left California, and I imagine never returned.  But this little piece of detective work relieved me of a very unpleasant feeling.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I had so much to do in the office that I had little time for the drudgery of copying.  There were hordes of copyists, always seeking work, which they did at starvation wages.  These poor wretches did the bulk of the copying for most of the lawyers in the city.  Stenography had not yet come into general use.  The firm did a good business, made fairly good money.  Eastman had a great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1875 Eastman formed a partnership with Judge Anson Brunson of Los Angeles.  He left San Francisco for that city, with his family, about the middle of May of that year.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I agreed to go with the new firm at a salary of seventy-five dollars per month.  I loved Mr. Neumann, as everybody did, so I spoke to him about it, asking him if he thought it a good move for me.  He put his hands on my shoulders, looked me squarely in the eyes, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Buzz" (a nickname that I had borne from childhood), "my dear boy, you know how I love you.  If you stay with me, we can always make enough money to buy theater tickets and pay our club dues with, and it will be a cold day when I cannot borrow enough money for the two of us to live on.  My advice to you is for you to go with Jim (meaning Eastman).  Los Angeles is a new community, and is about to see the greatest development and advancement of any place on the Pacific Coast."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I thanked him for his advice.  I stayed in San Francisco for a couple of weeks after Mr. Eastman left, finishing up various matters in my charge, collecting accounts due the firm, and closing up the affairs of the old partnership.  On June 3rd, 1875, I was going to the steamer, its mooring place being not far from my room.  I had sent my trunk down the day before.  I was carrying quite a heavy hand-bag and overcoat.  I met Mr. Louis Sloss, President of the Alaska Commercial Company, a most admirable man and one of the warmest friends I ever had.  He greeted me, and wanted to know where I was going.  I told him and he said:</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"What am I going to do?  You are the only person in that office that I can get anything done by."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him that if he would bawl out the office occasionally, he would be able to get along with them.  He took hold of one handle of my bag and insisted on helping me carry it, and accompanied me to the steamer landing.  We went on the boat.  Once there, he asked me how I was fixed for money.  While I only had a small amount of silver in my pocket, I told him I had plenty for my needs.  He thrust his hand in his pocket and pulled out several twenty-dollar gold-pieces, saying:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"You had better take these.  You may need them."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I thanked him, but declined the money.  The whistle blew.  When I shook hands with him he asked me to take off my hat, then he put his hands on my head and gave me his blessing in Hebrew.  There were tears in my eyes as he went down the gang-plank.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Sloss had property interests in Southern California, and I attended to all his legal business here while he retained them.  We remained good friends as long as he lived, and he was always proud of such success as I attained.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Brunson &amp; Eastman knew I would arrive on the steamer, reaching Los Angeles on the 5th of June.  We anchored near where the present breakwater is, and went on a lighter to Wilmington, where I took the train for Los Angeles.  No one met me at the depot.  An Irish hackman took possession of me.  I asked him where was a good place to stop.  He replied, with a broad brogue:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Go to the Commercial Restaurant in the Downey Block.  You can get a room there.  All the bloods, Mr. Abe Haas, Mr. Fred Drakenfeld, Mr. W. J. Brodrick, all do be stopping there."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him to take me to it, and he did so.  I had, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ABE HAAS</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"May I sit here?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him I would be delighted to have him do so.  In those days it was no trick for me to get acquainted with anybody or anything, even a lamp-post on a dark night.  I saw he was of Jewish persuasion, and I said to myself that it was funny that the last man I parted with in San Francisco was a Jew, and the first man I was meeting in Los Angeles was of the same race.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We fell into conversation.  I told him who I was, that I had come to Los Angeles to go into the employ of Brunson &amp; Eastman.  He said Brunson was a great lawyer, but he did not know Eastman, who had just come here.  For some reason, the name "Abe Haas" rang in my ears.  Presently I asked him if he knew Mr. Abe Haas.  He looked at me, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I am Abe Haas."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him why I had asked, and he said he had never pretended to be a blood, but did pride himself on being a business man, and that he was a member of the firm of Hellman, Haas &amp; Co., wholesale grocers.  We got along swimmingly.  I paid fifty cents for my lunch, which left me the same amount in my pocket.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>As we walked out Mr. Haas asked me to meet him there at six o'clock and have dinner with him and he would introduce me to a good set of young fellows.  When we reached the street he showed me Temple Block, where Brunson &amp; Eastman had their offices.  He told me that they occupied the eastern half of the third floor of the building.  We parted, I starting for the office.  On the way I met an old schoolmate, who was down and out, and I gave him my last half-dollar.  Then I was broke.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I went up to the third floor of the Temple Block, found the name of Brunson &amp; Eastman on a door at the head of the stairs, found the door unlocked, and walked in.  There was no one there.  The library, well arranged, was in a long room at the south end of the offices.  There were several other rooms well furnished, and the desk which I had used in San Francisco and which Eastman had sent down by steamer, sat just to the left of the door.  It had two compartments, one on each side above the table of the desk, and pigeon-holes below.  The register of actions was in the same place I always kept it in San Francisco.  It was a new book, recently opened, and I saw at a glance that they were doing business.  In two weeks they had brought several actions and were appearing for as many defendants in other suits.  I looked into the diary, found that several demurrers were set for the following Monday and two cases set for trial in the following week.  This looked like prosperity to me.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Shortly a man came in, who said his name was Harmon, that he was a court reporter and had been helping out the firm until I arrived.  He told me that Judge Brunson had gone to Santa Monica, with Col. John P. Jones and Col. R. S. Baker, to look into the disputed boundary line of the San Vicente Rancho, which they owned, and that Eastman had gone to El Monte, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Later, a huge old man, evidently a farmer, came in.  He closed the door and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Where is Brunson?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him and he came back with:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Confound that man!  I have been trying for years to get him to collect a note of $900 from Sam Prager, a merchant here."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I asked him if he had the note.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"No," he replied, "I lost the note, but I have a copy of it.  Whenever I loan a man money I make a copy of the note."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He took out a pocketbook he was carrying and gave the note to me.  I saw that it was long past due.  I was not then admitted to the bar, but we had had a case of that kind in San Francisco, and I remembered that we tendered the maker of the note a bond of twice the amount, to save him harmless from the production of the original instrument, and then sued upon the copy.  I asked him if he could give a bond.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"In any amount you want," he replied.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"You go out and get two bondsmen and bring them up here," I told him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He went out, and I took a bond from a blank case, and when Bullis (the name of my party) got back I had the bond ready.  He introduced me to Mr. Louis Polaski and Mr. L. C. Goodwin who, he said, would sign the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>We went onto the street and to Prager's store in the Ducommun Block at Main and Commercial streets (which is still standing).  Here he kept a gents' furnishing goods store.  We went in, and Bullis said, pointing:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"That's him, sitting behind that desk."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I went up to him and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Mr. Prager, I have come here with Mr. Bullis to collect that $900 note which you owe him."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He smiled, and replied:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Produce your note and I will pay it."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"You know," I said to him, "that the note is lost."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"That is your misfortune, not my fault," he replied.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then I told him that, under such circumstances, I tendered him a bond, as the law provided, signed by Louis Polaski and L. C. Goodwin, to save him harmless from the payment of the original note.  He said he didn't know anything about bonds.  Then I came back at him in his own words:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"That is your misfortune, not my fault," and I added, "if you do not pay me this money in fifteen minutes I am going to sue you, and attach you, before the sun goes down."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He glared at me and asked:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Who the hell are you, anyway?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him my name was Graves and that I was working for Brunson &amp; Eastman.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Judge Brunson would not treat me that way," he said.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>I told him I did not care for that, but if he did not pay I would attach him.  Just then, Mr. Andrew Glassell, one of the leading lawyers of Los Angeles, came into the store to buy a straw hat.  While the clerk was waiting on him, Prager took the bond to him and they had a conversation about it, all of which I did not hear.  After Mr. Glassell had read the bond I heard him say to Prager, "This is a good bond, and this man is within his rights."  Then Prager whispered something to him, and Mr. Glassell came over to me and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Young man, what's the hurry about this?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him that there had not been much hurry about it, as the note had been overdue for eighteen months, and I reiterated that I would attach Prager if he did not pay.  Mr. Glassell turned to Prager and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Sam, you had better pay the note."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"All right," said Prager, "vait a minute."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He put on his hat, went across the street to the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank, and came back with $900 in gold in a sack.  He paid me the interest out of his cash drawer.  I had Bullis receipt for the money at the foot of the bond and gave it to Prager.  He shook hands with me and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Ven I see somepody with something to collect, I send him to you."  (And he always did, and we were friends until his death.)</P>
095.sgm:<P>When we reached the street I handed the sack with the money in it to Bullis.  He was ready to hug me.  He put his hand in the sack and pulled out five twenty-dollar gold-pieces, which he gave to me, saying:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Whenever I have any law business you are going to do it," and he kept his word.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I started back to the office.  The Polaski &amp; Goodwin store was on the opposite corner of Main and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Did you get your money?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"You bet I did," I replied, and pulling out my five twenties I added, "and here is my fee."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He slapped me on the back, saying:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Bully for you."</P>
095.sgm:<P>From that day, until the day of his death, he was one of my warmest friends.  He was responsible for the business of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank coming to me, which, in time, led up to my presidency of the bank.  My firm acted as attorneys in settling the estate of Mr. Goodwin, and never charged one dollar for its services.  I was one of the executors of Mrs. Goodwin's will, and we were also attorneys for her estate.</P>
095.sgm:<P>About five o'clock Brunson and Eastman came into the office together.  They were overjoyed at seeing me, and apologized for not meeting me.  I told them that was all right as long as they were both busy.  Laying my $100 on the desk I said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I, too, have been busy.  There is $100 I have earned for you."</P>
095.sgm:<P>They wanted to know how I earned it, and I thought they would laugh their heads off when I told them.  Then Brunson said, speaking to Eastman:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Jim, let's give that hundred dollars to Buzz.  I think he deserves it."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"All right," said Eastman, "I guess he needs it.  I never saw him when he wasn't broke."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He did not know how close he was hewing to the line.  Broke at one o'clock, $100 in my pocket at five o'clock and four fast friends made--Abe Haas, Sam Prager, L. C. Goodwin and J. J. Bullis.  I thought it a fair <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>In September, three months after the Prager episode, the firm sued, for J. J. Bullis, Sam Prager and Vicente Rosas, on a $500 note which had been lost at the same time as the $900 note.  Rosas had had some farm dealings with Bullis, and claimed that the note had been extinguished.  However, the court held otherwise, and rendered judgment against both Prager and Rosas for the principal, interest, costs and attorney's fees.  An appeal was taken and the judgment was affirmed.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES IN 1875.  TEMPLE &amp; WORKMAN BANK FAILURE.  RAILROAD HISTORY OF THE COUNTY, INCLUDING ELECTRIC LINES.  INTERVIEW BETWEEN HUNTINGTON AND HELLMAN</P>
095.sgm:<P>BEFORE detailing my experiences, on coming to Los Angeles, it is well enough to take a look at the surroundings.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Los Angeles then had an estimated population of 7,000 people, and estimates are usually too large.  I think one-half of them were native Californians, and it seemed to me they lived on horseback almost night and day.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There were three banks: the Farmers &amp; Merchants (still in existence), the Los Angeles County Bank and the Temple &amp; Workman Bank.  The Temple &amp; Workman Bank failed in September, 1875; opened for a time on money borrowed from E. J. Baldwin, and closed permanently in June, 1876.  The name of the County Bank was afterwards changed to the Bank of America, and liquidated by Mr. John E. Plater, who was its then owner.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The principal hotel was the Pico House, three stories high, with a bathroom on each of the upper floors.  Next was the St. Charles, which set a better table than the Pico House, although the building was inferior.  The United States Hotel, on the corner of Commercial and Main streets, was what was called the two-bit house.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There was not a paved street in the town, and gas only in a very small portion of the business section.  A small portion of the town was sewered, and that without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>There was one street-car line, beginning at the Pico House on Main, running down Main to Spring, down Spring to Sixth, and out Sixth to Figueroa Street, where the car-barns were located on the present site of the Gates Hotel.  Subsequently, the line was extended from the Pico House to the Southern Pacific Depot at what was called River Station.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The census of 1830 showed that there were forty people here who were not native Californians.  They were made up of Americans, Frenchmen, Germans and Italians.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The reason the population of Southern California at that time was scarce was because of its inaccessibility.  To reach Los Angeles in those days there were several tedious modes of travel:</P>
095.sgm:<P>First.  By stage, through Texas, New Mexico and Arizona, to Yuma, and then through a veritable desert, until San Bernardino was reached, and on into Los Angeles.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Second.  By stage from Stockton, over the Tehachapi Mountains.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Third.  By stage from San Jose, by the coast route, over two mountain ranges.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Fourth.  By steamer from San Francisco, in a dinky little boat, which took the best part of two days and two nights to make the trip to Wilmington.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The only railroad leading to the outside world was that from Los Angeles to Wilmington, where it connected with steamer traffic.  This road was built about 1870, by the city and county jointly, each of them issuing bonds to pay for it.  After the Central Pacific was finished to San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>This, of course, did not suit the people of Los Angeles, and its leading citizens, ex-Governor John G. Downey, Phineas Banning and other prominent men, approached the Southern Pacific people to get them to come into Los Angeles County.  As an inducement, an act of the legislature was passed which allowed the city and county of Los Angeles to donate to the railroad the little line from Los Angeles to Wilmington (now worth millions of dollars).  The county voted a $300,000 bond issue, and the city donated the company seventy-five acres of land for machine shops.  The location of this land was not suitable for the purpose, and the railroad company subsequently reconveyed the land to the city, and it is now included in Lincoln Park and an auto parking station, adjacent to it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Southern Pacific Railroad Company, which had been organized by Huntington and his three associates, had to go to Congress to get an act allowing them to change the route from Mojave to Los Angeles, so as not to lose their land grants.  When this was accomplished, they immediately began to build their present line of railroad from Los Angeles to the south portal of the San Fernando tunnel, and when I came here, in 1875, they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PIONEERS OF LOS ANGELES</P>
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095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>1875 was an extremely hard year for Los Angeles.  As stated before, the Temple &amp; Workman Bank failed in September, when the Bank of California closed in San Francisco.  A short time after that, black, confluent smallpox broke out, and lingered lovingly with us for about twenty-three months.  It was stated that one-half the native population died and one-third of the American population.  One could not go out on the street, at any time of the day or night, without a hearse rushing by with a smallpox corpse in it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In addition to that, the winter of 1875-6 was extremely dry, and cattle and sheep perished by the thousands.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The first through passenger train on the Southern Pacific from San Francisco came to us in September, 1876, and the event was duly celebrated by a banquet and speech-making.  Immediately, people began to come to Los Angeles.  The Southern Pacific, through its Eastern connecting lines, was able to sell through tickets from eastern points to our city and, notwithstanding all the drawbacks that Los Angeles suffered from 1875 to 1880, the census of 1880 showed the population to be 13,000.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then the Southern Pacific finished its line to New Orleans, and the Santa Fe came in from Chicago, resulting in the great boom of 1884-1886, which collapsed in 1887 bringing misery and loss to thousands; and in 1890 the census showed our population to be 54,000.  By 1900 it had increased to 101,000; in 1910, to 315,000; in 1920, to 565,000; and now, by every rule of calculation, it is said that our population is 1,250,000.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We must always remember that the Southern Pacific was the pioneer.  Probably, if that road had not been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Owing to conditions resulting from the panic of 1873, the Southern Pacific could not raise one dollar on bonds with which to build the road from San Francisco to New Orleans.  It sent Mr. Michael Reese, a wealthy capitalist and large property owner of San Francisco, to Germany.  He there floated a bond issue sufficient to build the road.</P>
095.sgm:<P>After he had completed his mission, he walked eight miles to a cemetery in which his father and mother were buried.  To save a pfenning, a small German coin, which the gate-keeper at the cemetery would have charged him if he had entered through the gate, he went down the line a couple of hundred yards, attempted to climb over the wall of the cemetery, fell off and broke his neck.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He owned the Alamitos Rancho, of 29,000 acres, in Los Angeles County.  It was sold by his estate to Mr. I. W. Hellman, Mr. John Bixby and Mr. Jotham Bixby, for the sum of $141,000.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In this connection, let us also look at the evolution of the street-car system in Los Angeles.  After I came here, another one-horse line was built that had its northern terminus right in front of the Temple Block on Main Street.  It ran down Main to Washington, from Washington to Figueroa, from Figueroa to Agricultural Park.  After the Southern Pacific built the Arcade Depot, this line ran a branch down to the depot.  In time the ownership of these railroads changed hands and a cable system was substituted for them.  While the cable system was being built, General M. H. Sherman and Mr. E. P. Clark came in here from Arizona and built an electric <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>About 1891, the late Mr. H. E. Huntington and Mr. I. W. Hellman and associates (among the latter being Messrs. A. Borel and C. De Guigne), acquired the rights of the cable company and immediately converted the lines into electric roads.  They also incorporated the Pacific Electric Railway Company, and immediately began construction to Santa Ana, Glendale and Redondo.  Mr. Hellman floated a ten-million-dollar bond issue in San Francisco for the purposes of the Pacific Electric.  It did not last long.  The program laid out by Mr. Huntington was so extensive that Messrs.  Hellman, Borel and De Guigne concluded they could not go farther.  They begged Mr. Huntington to buy them out.  He refused.  Mr. Hellman said he would sell to some one else.  Mr. Huntington told him to do so.  They then sold their interests to the Southern Pacific Railroad Company, and subsequently the Southern Pacific took over the Pacific Electric lines, relinquishing its interest in the Los Angeles Railway lines.  Since then, Mr. Huntington has owned the latter and the Southern Pacific has owned the Pacific Electric lines.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Southern Pacific subsequently bought out Sherman &amp; Clark, that is, their lines running to Pasadena and to the beach cities, and also, through the Pacific Electric, bought out what was known as the Hook line, which ran from Los Angeles to San Pedro.  I, myself, paid the money on this transaction, the consideration being in excess of $1,500,000.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In the hands of the Pacific Electric and of the Los Angeles Railway, extensions and improvements have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>After Messrs.  Hellman, Borel and De Guigne sold their stock in the Los Angeles Railway and the Pacific Electric Railway to the Southern Pacific, reports were circulated that they had sold Mr. Huntington out, that is, that they had sold their stocks without giving him a chance to buy them.  One day Mr. Hellman was in Los Angeles, and in my office.  Mr. Huntington came in.  They greeted each other cordially.  Then Mr. Hellman said: "Sit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>I. W. HELLMAN</P>
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095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "Mr. Huntington, I regret very much that your subordinates are reporting that I sold you out.  You know that it is not true."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "I have not heard of such reports."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "Well, everybody else has.  Your attorney, Mr. W. E. Dunn, has been particularly active in circulating these reports, and that was the reason that I would not allow him in my office the last time you and he called on me in San Francisco.  You will remember that you took some documents which I had prepared to Dunn to pass upon, he being out in the lobby of the bank."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "That is correct.  I could not understand your animosity toward him."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "Well, you know now, and I consider reports circulated by your agents as circulated by you."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "I never circulated such reports and I will see that my subordinates do not in the future."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "Now, while we are here, I want, in the presence of Mr. Graves, to ask you a few questions."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "All right."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "When we went into this deal, did not you fix the amount that it would cost us?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "Yes."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "When we had spent that much money, did not I then sell ten million dollars' worth of Pacific Electric Railway bonds for the use of the project?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "Yes, that is correct."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "When that money was gone, did not you begin to call on us individually, you putting up your share and calling on us for additional money?"</P>
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095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "Yes.  I could not build railroads without money.  And if I had told you what it was going to cost, when we began the work, you never would have joined me."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "Did not I come to Los Angeles and remonstrate with you, telling you that I was not going to break myself on this project; that De Guigne and Borel had borrowed all the money they could, and were worrying over the matter considerably?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "Yes, you made that complaint to me."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "And did I not beg you to buy our stock, and you laughed at me?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "Yes, I thought you were worrying without reason."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "You refused to buy our stock.  Then, did I not tell you that I was going to get out, and if you did not buy it I was going to sell it?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "Yes, and I told you to go ahead and sell it.  I had no idea that you could find anyone on earth who would step into your shoes."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hellman: "Then you acknowledge here, before Mr. Graves, that I gave you every opportunity to buy it?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Huntington: "That is correct.  But I wanted you as a partner because you were capable of raising money."</P>
095.sgm:<P>After a little more conversation Mr. Huntington rose to go, and Hellman, still seated, said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Now, what are we to be, friends or enemies?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Huntington extended his hand, saying, "Friends."</P>
095.sgm:<P>They shook hands.  Just then Mr. Hellman was called out, and Huntington said to me, "Graves, I did not think the old man had that much spunk in him."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I remember the scene and everything that occurred just as if it had happened yesterday.  After that conversation I do not think any further slanders of Mr. Hellman, Borel and De Guigne were circulated.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>PEN PICTURE OF LOS ANGELES IN 1875.  BULL-HEADS CAUGHT IN LAKE AT LAGUNA RANCH, AND WHAT HAPPENED TO THEM IN COOKING.  MY DOG, FLORA</P>
095.sgm:<P>I WILL here draw, simply from memory, a pen picture of the business portion of Los Angeles, and of the business interests here, on June 5th, 1875.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The old Temple Block, lately destroyed to make room for the new city hall, was the hub around which everything centered.  As before stated, the Pico House was then the leading hotel.  The St. Charles, on Main Street, several doors north of Commercial, was a fair rival of it.  Opposite the St. Charles was the Lafayette, subsequently known as the St. Elmo.  The United States Hotel, at Main and Requena streets, then catered to the same class of business which it does today.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I have before mentioned the three banks which were here at that time.  While the Temple &amp; Workman Bank was temporarily closed, E. F. Spence, M. S. Patrick and William Lacy (the father of the men who now conduct the Lacy Manufacturing Company), with some local capitalists, organized the Commercial Bank of Los Angeles.  While in the employ of Brunson &amp; Eastman, I drew its articles of incorporation, prepared its by-laws and attended the first meeting of its board of directors.  It was rather singular that my firm, Graves &amp; Chapman, in 1881, when this bank was turned into the First National Bank of Los Angeles, drew the articles of incorporation of that bank.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>The Commercial Bank bought a lot on the east side of Main Street, nearly opposite Temple Street, where the Bank of Italy has recently constructed a new branch building.  The Commercial Bank immediately built a two-story building, amply sufficient for its wants, but subsequently it enlarged it by taking in additional ground on the south.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The combined capital and deposits of all the banks here, in 1875, were ridiculously small when compared with the present-day figures.  As an illustration of the amount of business done here, Charles J. Shepherd received and dispatched all the telegrams for the Western Union Telegraph Company, and Tom McCaffray, for many years afterwards with the Southern Pacific Railroad Company, delivered the messages received.  Mr. William Pridham (than whom no better man has ever lived) and Joe Binford did all the inside work of the Wells Fargo &amp; Company's express office, while John Osborne, with a one-horse express wagon, did all of the company's deliveries, including letters, many of which in those days were sent by express.</P>
095.sgm:<P>From the Pico House, near the Plaza, on the east side of Main Street, to the St. Charles Hotel, there was virtually no business building, except possibly a fruit stand and a barber shop.  Where the Baker Block now stands was a magnificent old-time one-story dwelling-house, with court-yards and fountains, the former home of Don Abel Stearns, and then occupied by Col. R. S. Baker and wife.  She was the widow of Don Abel Stearns.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Adjoining the St. Charles on the north, the Grand Central Hotel was in course of construction.  Between the St. Charles and the Ducommun Block (which is still standing), at the northeast corner of Main and Commercial Streets, were some old adobe buildings.  On the west side of Main Street, in a three-story building (still <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>There were two breweries in the city, the New York Brewery, located at Third and Main streets and built by Mr. Chris Henne, and for years operated by Mr. Louis Schwarz; and the Philadelphia Brewery, located on Aliso Street, where the immense sycamore tree stood for so many years.  Both of them made excellent beer.  Adjoining the New York Brewery on the south, a man named George Lehman, but generally known as "Greek George," had built a sort of amusement garden with a couple of round pavilions in it.  Here people used to go and drink beer from the brewery.  Lehman was also known as "Round-house George," from these pavilions.  He became involved, during the hard times in the decade from 1870 to 1880, and lost all of his holdings, comprising much property besides that I have just described, under foreclosure proceedings, and died in abject poverty.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The retail merchandise business was in a few hands.  Just south of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank building, in a one-story brick building, Eugene Meyer &amp; Company conducted the City of Paris, the fashionable dry goods store of the city.  Next to this store was the Billy Buffum's drinking saloon, then Theodore Wollweber's drug store.  Then came the Downey Block, in the rear of which, just south of Wollweber, where the federal building now stands, was the Commercial Restaurant, with an entrance leading to Main Street.  Next to it was a stationery store, shortly afterwards and for many years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Jacoby Brothers came next with a clothing store, then there was a barber shop, then Nordlinger's jewelry store, then Charley Bush's, Lyon &amp; Smith's carpet store, Charley Bean's real estate and insurance office, with Pete Thompson's, afterwards Pierson's, saloon, on the northeast corner of Temple and Main streets, completed the occupancy of the ground floor of the Downey Block.  The upstairs housed physicians, lawyers and architects.  South of Temple, on the west side of Spring Street, were adobe buildings flush with the sidewalk.  In one of these Justice Trafford held forth, and The Star, edited by Ben Truman, was published.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Express was a little further down Spring Street, and was edited by James J. Ayres.  The post-office was in the Jones Block, on Spring Street, opposite the old court house.  Still south of this property was another adobe building, where the city clerk had his office and the city council met.  Adjoining was the city and county jail, at the corner of Spring and Franklin streets, all adobe buildings, flush with the sidewalk, and in the yard of which many official hangings occurred.  Still south on Spring Street were more adobe buildings.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Coming back to Temple Block, the Temple &amp; Workman Bank occupied its northwest corner.  In the Main Street corner A. Portugal had a clothing store.  He sold out and went to Arizona, and Jacoby Brothers moved into that corner.  South of this was Joe Williams' Reception Saloon, which extended from Main to Spring Street, as also did the store next to it, occupied by Mr. S. Hellman (the father of Mr. Maurice S. Hellman, of the Security Trust &amp; Savings Bank), as a stationery store.  For <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Next to the Reception Saloon came Junger's drug store, and next to it, Slotterbeck's gunsmith store.  George Pridham conducted a cigar store south of Slotterbeck's, and on the southeast corner of Main and Court streets was the Wells Fargo express office.  Next to it, still in the Temple Block, was Jake Philippi's beer saloon, and at the northeast corner of Spring and Court streets, I. Cohn had a cigar store.  Then came Tom Rowan's real estate office and Daniel Desmond's hat store and a barber shop, which brings us to the Spring Street entrance of Sam Hellman's stationery store.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The court house stood on Main, running through to Spring, with Market Street on one side and Court on the other.  Later, the Bullard Block was built on its site, and was only recently destroyed to make room for the new city hall.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Lanfrancos, mother and daughters, one of whom married Walter S. Maxwell and has recently died, another of whom married Walter S. Moore, and another, Brentano, the bookseller of New York, owned the entire frontage on Court Street, from Spring to Main, which extended back half-way to First Street.  On this property was a large frame pavilion, with an entrance on Court Street, in which balls, church fairs and other gatherings were held.  One the night of July 4th, 1875, I was at a ball given there, and danced with all the belles and many of the matrons of the city.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On Main Street, at the southeast corner of Commercial, Polaski &amp; Goodwin conducted a dry goods store.  L. C. Goodwin, of this firm, came here in 1849, after the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>East of Polaski &amp; Goodwin, on Commercial Street, Mr. Charles Prager had a dry goods store, and next to him Samuel Meyer a crockery store, and still east of him, W. J. Brodrick was engaged in the fire insurance business.  Sam Prager, as before stated, had a gents' furnishing goods store at the northeast corner of Commercial and Main Streets, and in the same building Charles Ducommun had a hardware store.  He was the father of the Ducommun brothers, of the Ducommun Corporation, still in business in Los Angeles.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Lanfrancos owned a two-story building, with an extensive frontage, on the east side of Main Street, nearly opposite Temple Street, and just south of the building which the Commercial Bank erected.  The family lived on the upper floor.  There, Mrs. Lanfranco died, in January, 1876, of the smallpox.  Dr. Wise, dead some years ago, was her physician, and it was reported that he would not enter her room until he was first paid five thousand dollars in gold.  Beneath, in the corner of the Lanfranco Building, Mr. A. C. Chauvin had a grocery store, next to the Commercial Bank Building, and adjoining him on the south, Dr. A. Heizeman conducted a fashionable drug store.  Workman Brothers (one of whom, Mr. William Workman, was the father of Mr. Boyle Workman, recently president of the city council of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>At the corner of Main and Requena Streets, over Joe Brison's beer saloon, Dillon &amp; Kenealy had a very excellent dry goods store.  Where the Harper &amp; Reynolds hardware store is now located, Sanguinetti &amp; Rivera conducted the largest retail grocery store in Los Angeles.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Further down Main Street, in a two-story brick building, Matfield and Germain also had a grocery store, and nearly opposite them, Seymour &amp; Johnson conducted a similar store, called The Grange.  Still south of The Grange was Louis Lichtenberger's wagon-making shop, and next to him a man sold eastern-made Gates buggies and carriages.  At the northeast corner of First and Main Streets, Tommie Rowan had a bakery, inherited from his father.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The wholesale district was on Los Angeles Street.  Hellman, Haas &amp; Company and Newmark &amp; Company were the wholesale grocers.  The former was on the northeast corner of Los Angeles and Commercial streets, the latter opposite, in the Stearns Block.  Kalisher &amp; Wurtemberg, dealers in hides, were in an adobe building at the southeast corner of Los Angeles and Aliso streets.  Years afterwards, a new three-story building was erected there by Hass, Baruch &amp; Company, successors to Hellman, Haas &amp; Company, who occupied the same for many years.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Lips &amp; Craigue, wholesale liquor dealers, were also in the Stearns Block, north of Newmark, and between the liquor store and Arcadia Street, some commission houses, including one conducted by Ralph Ellis, former Sheriff of Napa County, were located.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>In a one-story brick building, on the west side of Los Angeles, south of Newmark &amp; Company, Samuel C. Foy for many years conducted a harness shop and between him and Commercial Street was M. W. Childs' hardware, tin and stove-ware store.  At the northwest and southwest corners of Commercial and Los Angeles streets Frenchmen conducted wine stores.  Page &amp; Gravel's wagon making shop was on Los Angeles Street south of Commercial.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Several members of the Cohn and Norton families, besides Mendel Meyer and E. Laventhal, had clothing stores in various parts of the business section.  Barrows &amp; Furrey conducted a hardware and tinware store, for many years, on Spring Street, north of the building where the city council met.  All of the clothing merchants carried shoes and I remember of but two strictly shoe houses in the city, one owned by Joe Mesmer, in the United States Hotel building, and one by W. J. McDonald in the same building but farther south.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Where the Nadeau Hotel now stands, William Buckley had a stage office and barns for his animals.  He ran a stage line over the coast route to San Jose.  South of him, Louis Roeder had a blacksmith and wagon shop.  Joseph Mullally burned all of the bricks used in the community, and Jake Witzler laid most of them up into buildings.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The leading allopathic physicians were Dr. J. S. Griffin, Dr. Richard Den, Dr. Joseph Kurtz, Dr. Richardson, Dr. K. D. Wise, Dr. H. S. Orme, Drs. Stanway &amp; Ross, and Dr. Dalton.  Dr. Kirkpatrick and Dr. Shorb were the homeopathic practitioners.  Dr. J. S. Crawford, with his offices in the Downey Block, where the Federal building now stands, and Dr. French, whose office was in the Lanfranco Block, over Workman's harness shop, were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Los Angeles then had a large and able Bar, including Mr. Andrew Glassell, Justice E. M. Ross, Colonel Cameron E. Thom, John D. Bicknell, Stephen M. White, Messrs. Geo. W. and Henry M. Smith (brothers), Mr. Henry T. Gage, Col. James G. Howard, Mr. A. B. Chapman, Judge H. K. S. O'Melveny, Will D. Gould, James H. Blanchard, Judge A. W. Hutton, Judge R. M. Widney, Judge Albert M. Stephens, Judge S. C. Hubbel, Col. A. J. King and the firm of Brunson &amp; Eastman.  Geo. S. Patton and Jonathan R. Scott (both lately deceased) were law clerks and students in the office of Glassell, Chapman &amp; Smith.  Judge Y. Sepulveda was district judge, and Judge H. K. S. O'Melveny was county judge.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The surveyors were George Hansen, William Moore, W. P. Reynolds, Ruxton &amp; Rumble, John E. Jackson, Henry Hancock and E. T. Wright.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Dr. Den was a very prim old bachelor who always rode a jet-black horse.  It is related of him that while a witness in Hill vs. Den, a celebrated case in the district court at Santa Barbara, he virtually accused an attorney in a previous transaction of having sold him out.  The attorney examining him then asked him:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Did you discharge him?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>He answered, "Discharge him?  I never discharge a professional man.  I dispensed with his services."</P>
095.sgm:<P>It is rather strange that, of all the attorneys then in Los Angeles, and I think I have not given a full list of them here, four only are alive, besides myself, viz.: Judge R. M. Widney, Justice E. M. Ross, Judge A. W. Hutton and Judge Albert M. Stephens.  They are all from seven to thirteen years older than I am.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>In 1875, the streets, not being paved, were seas of vile-smelling mud in winter time, and were full of suffocating dust in summer time, notwithstanding constant sprinkling.  The city possessed one old hand-worked fire engine, manned by a volunteer fire department.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Baker Block was the first modern building erected in Los Angeles after I arrived here.  It was constructed in 1878.  It was badly located for business and it would have been better for its owners had it never been constructed, as it never was a paying proposition.  By the time it was finished, business had already started to move south of Temple Block.  The first passenger elevator was installed in the Nadeau Hotel in 1881.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When the Baker Block was finished, in 1878, Col. Robert S. Baker asked me if I would not take charge of it.  I gladly consented, and I moved my office from the Strelitz Building, on Spring Street, to the Baker Block, and remained in that building until I left the practice of law on January 1st, 1904.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The first tenants on the ground floor of the Baker Block were as follows:  South of the entrance were the B. F. Coulter Dry Goods Store, occupying two stores; the Kan-Koo, a Japanese art store, conducted by Mr. S. K. Benchley (who afterwards retired and became an orange grower at Fullerton, and who is now deceased); then came Eugene Germain, who dealt in garden seeds and was an extensive shipper of fresh produce to Arizona and New Mexico.  In the first store north of the entrance, Brownstein &amp; Louis began the business which has developed into the very extensive business now conducted by them at Figueroa and Eighth streets.  Adjoining them, D. V. B. Henerie, a wholesale liquor dealer of San Francisco, opened a first-class wholesale liquor house, which was in charge of Mr. C. C. Lips, formerly of Lips &amp; Craigue in the same business in the Stearns Block.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>For quite a time, the Wells Fargo express office was located in the store at the extreme northern end of the building.  After that moved out it was taken by Northcraft &amp; Clark, dealers in stoves, tinware and general hardware.  Showing changed conditions in Los Angeles, I do not believe there could be purchased today in the city five wood or coal-burning stoves suitable for a house hold kitchen.  Gas stoves have supplanted these stoves.  Should the natural gas, with which the city is largely supplied, suddenly cease toflow, artificial gas could not be manufactured fast enough to supplyall homes, and as many dwelling-houses today are not constructed with facilities for using coal and wood-burning stoves, even if they could be obtained, people would have to cook in their back yards over open fires.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Speaking of the Henerie store, there was employed in it a cheerful little fellow named Billy Rockwell (long since dead), who came as near being in a continual state of semi-intoxication as a human being could and live.  He sent to Massachusetts for a barrel of hard crab-apple cider for Col. R. S. Baker.  I do not believe that any legitimate liquor was ever made that had the knock-out quality of that cider.  I have at my home a few bottles of brandy made by B. D. Wilson of San Gabriel more than seventy years ago, of the fruit of the cactus or tunas.  It is so strong that when it reaches your tongue you feel it in your foot, like an electric shock, and at the same time, it is so smooth that it does not burn.  It has a most delicious flavor and is an excellent article to burn for black coffee or upon a plum pudding.  By way of comparison, I do not think that cactus brandy has the edge on Billy Rockwell's crab-apple cider.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. F. D. Ludovicci, a connoisseur of art, literature and liquor, pronounced the tuna brandy as the best brandy he had ever tasted in any country in the world.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>After the Henerie store was closed out, it was occupied by Col. J. C. Duncan as a silverware and jewelry store.  Col. Duncan had had quite a spectacular and checkered career in San Francisco.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I am going to relate another incident in connection with my friend Billy Rockwell.  I fear that merely putting it onto paper will relegate me to life membership in the Ananias Club.  Billy had been telling me about the excellent fishing for bullhead, a species of cat-fish, in a lake on the Laguna Ranch, belonging to Mrs. Arcadia B. de Baker, and lying four or five miles east of Los Angeles.  This lake was quite extensive and was fed from living springs in the bottom of it, and the water was always fresh and pure.  As pumping of underground water, for irrigation purposes, increased, the lake finally dried up.  Yielding to Billy's importunities, one day I went with him after bullhead.  We could have caught a boat-load of them.  They were rather repulsive-looking fish, but the flesh was hard and firm and very palatable.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I took half a dozen of them home, cleaned them myself, and before putting them in the ice-box, I showed them to our cook, Bridget Cummings (a sister of James Cummings, who was, for many years, superintendent of streets of Los Angeles), a most admirable woman, and told her that next morning (which was Friday) she should take a frying-pan, put some butter in it, get it quite hot, and put the fish into it.  Next morning, just as I had completed my toilet and was ready to go down-stairs, we were alarmed at wild shrieks from the floor below.  I hastened down-stairs, found Bridget in the front part of the house, in tears, crossing herself, and in a state of panic.  I asked her what the trouble was.  She said:</P>
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095.sgm:<P>They had been drawn, their gills were out, and how they could croak I do not know.  I did not hear them, I do not vouch for the story, but we always found Bridget a truthful girl.  I hurried to the kitchen.  The fish were still on the fire and beyond the croaking period.  I turned them over, and, in fact, had to complete cooking them, as Bridget would not touch the frying-pan.  When they were done, I put them on a platter.  They were served for breakfast, and were delicious.  Bridget declared they were bewitched by the devil.  Sometime afterwards, I jocularly told her I was going fishing for some more bull heads.  She said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"When you start, will you please give me two days' vacation?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>At that time I had an extremely smart hunting dog, of the setter breed.  Her name was Flora.  (It would appear that that was a family name for dogs with me.  You will remember that my old greyhound, of my boy hood days, was named Flora.)  Flora and Bridget were great friends.  There was a porch on two sides of our kitchen.  Next to the kitchen, on the east, was a small laundry with some stationary tubs, with a door opening onto the porch.  There was also a screen door there, so that the wooden door could be left open in warm weather.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In those days, we burned oak wood, thoroughly dried, properly split, and put into our wood-shed at $5.50 or $6.00 a cord.  (The same wood, today, costs $21.00 per cord.)  One day Bridget went out to the wood-shed, which was very near the entrance to the kitchen, for an armful of wood.  As usual, Flora ran to her as quick as she came out of the house, and Bridget was talking to her while she picked up the wood.  When she got to the door of the laundry, she was much astonished to see Flora beside her with a stick of wood in her mouth.  In a very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>I think Flora came as near understanding the human language as any animal that ever existed.  She was a wonderful retriever, and I used her in hunting doves, quail and ducks.  She raised me a beautiful puppy, a male, that was just as bright as she was.  After that I gave her to Mr. John H. Bixby, one of the co-owners of the Alamitos Ranch, who then lived in the old adobe house standing on the hill, overlooking an immense valley to the east, in which house his son, Fred H. Bixby, and family, now reside.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Five years after I gave Flora to Mr. Bixby, my friend, Mr. L. C. Goodwin, and I drove down there one day, at Mr. Bixby's invitation, for a duck-shoot.  There was a courtyard to the house, and the kitchen opened onto it.  I was in another doorway, some distance from the kitchen, and I saw Flora standing there, looking in through the screen door and wagging her tail.  I called her name.  She knew my voice and started to me with every appearance of happiness.  When she had come halfway I said, "Down, charge!"  She stopped as if she had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>After breakfast we went down to the duck marsh, and of course Flora went with me.  Sitting in a blind, made of willows and weeds, awaiting the flight of ducks, Flora got as close to me as she could, shoving her nose under my arm and whining affectionately.  We had a great shoot that morning and she retrieved as beautifully as she ever did.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When we left for home, towards night, and had gone about two miles from the Bixby house, Flora appeared, running along by the side of the buggy.  We had to turn around, drive back to the ranch, and, amid great lamentations on her part, she was tied up so she could not follow us.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Bad luck attended me with her offspring.  We were out for the summer at our Alhambra place, where we now live permanently.  I had two men on the ranch and on the Fourth of July I told them they could go in town for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Another incident as to Flora: When our daughter Alice (now Mrs. H. F. Stewart) was three or four years old, she would pilfer walnuts from the pantry and carry them out to the back porch in her apron.  She would sit down, with Flora beside her, and the dog would crack the nuts with her teeth, dropping them in the child's lap, and they would devour the kernels.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>PRICES OF LOS ANGELES REAL ESTATE IN 1875 RETURN OF C. E. THOM AFTER THE CIVIL WAR.  BUSINESS IMPROVEMENTS</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN 1875, the highest-priced real estate in Los Angeles was on both sides of Main Street, from the St. Charles Hotel to the Temple Block.  Shortly after 1875, William Buckley bought the site of the Nadeau Hotel, 120 feet at the corner of First, by 165 feet deep, for $8,000.  When he sold it to Remi Nadeau, in 1880, for $20,000, people thought the world was coming to an end.  When Mr. E. F. Spence bought the site of the Wilcox Block, 120 feet, at the southwest corner of Second and Spring, by 165 feet deep, from Hammel &amp; Denker, for Captain A. H. Wilcox, for the sum of $18,000, people nudged each other and intimated, if they did not give expression to the thought, that Mr. Spence had collected a very high commission from Hammel &amp; Denker for making the sale, which, of course, was not true.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1879, I bought for I. N. Van Nuys from Judge Sepulveda the corner lot at the southwest corner of Seventh and Spring streets, 60 by 165 feet deep, where the I. N. Van Nuys Building stands, for $500.  Mr. Van Nuys owned the adjoining sixty feet and had his dwelling-house on it, or he probably would not have bought it.  Today that lot, if unimproved, would probably bring $750,000.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mrs. Arcadia B. de Baker owned twelve acres of land at Fourth and Main streets.  It extended back across Los <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>When one thinks of these matters he can scarcely realize how prices have advanced to their present figures all over Los Angeles.  It is merely a question of population.  Had the population of the city remained at 7,000 people, values would still be where they were in 1875.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In that year, Mr. I. W. Hellman was just finishing his dwelling-house at Fourth and Main streets, where the Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank, since 1905, has been located.  On the northwest corner of Fourth and Main, Col. James G. Howard, a practicing attorney here, had a very comfortable two-story house, and north of him Gov. Downey lived in a very substantial brick dwelling.  O. W. Childs had already built a very beautiful home, on a large lot owned by him at Tenth and Main streets.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Capt. Cameron E. Thom had a beautiful home at what is now Third and Main streets.  He was a Virginian.  When the war broke out he went back to his native state, enlisted in the Confederate army and served until the end of the rebellion.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He returned to Los Angeles, coming by steamer.  At that time, my father-in-law, Mr. J. M. Griffith, was in the transportation business between Los Angeles and Wilmington.  He chanced to be at Wilmington when Capt. Thom came onto the wharf from the lighter.  Mr. Griffith, who was a native of Maryland, and a Republican and staunch Unionist, had known him well before he went <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PIONEERS OF LOS ANGELES</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"Well, you dirty old rebel!  You are back here now, and if you behave yourself we will not hang you."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He thrust his hand into his pocket and brought out as much gold as he had there, which happened to be $300.  He put it in Capt.  Thom's hands and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Go and get your hair cut, and get some clean clothes, and look decent."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Capt. Thom told me that while the reception was vigorous, he knew it was well-intended and meant for gentle raillery, and that at no time in his life did he ever see any money that looked as large to him as the gold-pieces which Mr. Griffith gave him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On returning to Los Angeles, Capt. Thom resumed the practice of the law and followed it for many years.  He died in 1915, having nearly reached his ninetieth birthday.  His mind was singularly clear up to the very last.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. A. Glassell, whom I met in Sam Prager's store the first day that I arrived here, had a very comfortable home where Main and Second Street now are.  Second Street, at that time, had not been opened.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On the west side of Broadway, then Fort Street, commencing at Second Street, Judge O'Melveny, Mr. J. M. Griffith, Mr. Eugene Meyer and Mr. Harris Newmark all had erected, in the order named, commodious dwellings.  Judge O'Melveny's lot was 120 by 165 feet.  Mr. Griffith's lot was 120 by 320 feet to Hill Street.  Mr. Newmark's and Mr. Meyer's lots were each sixty feet front by 320 feet deep.  Some good dwellingshad been erected on Figueroa Street pretty well out, including that of Mr. J. S. Slauson, Mr. Anson Brunson and Mr. Frank Ganahl.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>Many one-story adobe buildings, flush with the side-walk, pretty well scattered over town, were occupied as dwelling-houses.  One-story frame cottages made the remainder of the dwelling-houses.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Soon after 1875 business began to move to the south and west, and the movement has been continuous ever since.  Take the hotel business, for instance.  In 1881 the Nadeau was built at First and Spring.  Later on the Hollenbeck at Second and Spring.  Then the Angelus, at Fourth and Spring, then the Westminster at Fourth and Main.  Then the Van Nuys Hotel, at Fourth and Main, opposite the Westminster.  Still later came the Alexandria, then the Ambassador, and lastly the final triumph in hotel building in Los Angeles, the Biltmore, at Fifth and Olive streets.  This, of course, does not include the hundreds of other really good first-class hotels scattered throughout the city.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There was the same movement in business blocks.  John E. Bryson built the Bryson built the Bryson Block at the northeast corner of Second and Spring streets.  E. T. Stimson built two buildings, on opposite corners, at Third and Spring streets, and opposite one of them the Henne and Lankershim Buildings were erected.  At second and Spring the Wilcox Estate erected the Wilcox Block.  Other buildings less pretentious were built in between these corner buildings.  Year by year, gradually the business district moved south and west.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The first big break occurred when the First National Bank moved from its Main Street location to the Wilcox Block at Second and Spring.  The owners of properties north of Fourth Street were to some extent responsible for this situation.  Many of the buildings erected on Main and Spring streets, north of Fourth, were of the poorest possible quality.  The owners were able to exact enormous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles National Bank was located, from the time of its organization until its amalgamation with the First National, at the northwest corner of First and Spring streets.  The Merchants National Bank started in the Nadeau Hotel.  It afterwards moved to Fourth and Spring streets and from there to its present quarters at Sixth and Spring.  The Security Trust &amp; Savings Bank, organized as the Security Savings Bank, had its first office on Main Street, a few doors below the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank.  It later moved to Second and Spring, then, when the Merchants National occupied their new quarters at Sixth and Spring, it moved into the H. W. Hellman Building at Fourth and Spring, and subsequently into the Security Building.  The Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank remained five years too long at Main and Commercial, and removed to its present location, at Fourth and Main, in 1905.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Since the branch bank idea has come into vogue, many very handsome structures, which would do credit to any city, have been erected for their use.  There are something over two hundred and fifty branch banks, at the present writing, throughout Los Angeles city.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Prudent Beaudry, an energetic citizen of French-Canadian stock, did much for the development of the hill section of Los Angeles, both north and south of Temple Street.  He was several times Mayor of the city.  He made a good record as such.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>In the late '70's and early '80's, many new faces and new names were added to the Los Angeles business circle.  The B. F. Coulter Company came here in the '70's and first located at Temple and Spring streets in the Downey Block.  When the Baker Block was completed, it moved into that building and remained a number of years, but in time it joined the hegira of business men to the south and west.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In the Spring of 1881, A. Hamburger &amp; Sons opened a store in a three-story building on the west side of Spring Street, between Market and First streets, and opposite the Lanfranco Building.  After a few years they occupied all of the Phillips Block, a four or five-story building erected on the northwest corner of Spring and Franklin streets.  Here they prospered.  Quite a number of years ago, with far-seeing sagacity, they purchased the southwest corner of Eighth and Broadway, and built a magnificent building there.  Many people predicted, when they made that move, that the house was committing commercial suicide, but the result showed the wisdom of its managers.  It conducted for years the largest department store in Los Angeles, and finally it was sold to the May Company, who have enlarged the business and are prospering.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In time, the two original wholesale grocery houses of Hellman, Haas &amp; Company, later Haas, Baruch &amp; Company, and Newmark &amp; Company, were added to by several competitors.  Schroder &amp; Johnson established the forerunner of the Union Hardware &amp; Metal Company.  The California Hardware Company also came into existence, as did the Lacy Manufacturing Company, the Llewellyn Iron Works and the Ducommun Corporation.  The forerunner of the Baker Iron Works was the firm of Bower &amp; Baker, located at Second and Main streets.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>With increased population came increased business enterprises.  From 1880, on, the movement has been upward and onward.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1882, Mr. H. Jevne came here from Chicago and opened an up-to-date retail grocery store in the Strelitz Building, on the east side of Spring Street, nearly opposite Franklin.  He was a fine character, and excellent business man, and met with immediate success.  He gained a very prominent position in the social and commercial world.  He remained in business until his death, early in May, 1927, at the age of 78 years, highly respected and universally mourned.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>TURNVEREIN HALL.  INGERSOLL'S LECTURE AT THE CHILDS' OPERA HOUSE.  LOS ANGELES CHURCHES.  LOS ANGELES BAR ASSOCIATION</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN 1875, there was only one place in the city at all suitable for an assembly hall.  That was Turnverein Hall, on the west side of Spring Street about midway between Second and Third.  It was a huge old frame building.  Mr. J. B. Lankershim purchased it, after 1880, and removed it to Third Street, west of Broadway and immediately west of the lot now occupied by the Byrne Building.  He transformed it into an apartment house which rented very freely during the boom days of 1884 and succeeding year.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Ole Bull more than once electrified fashionable audiences in the old Turnverein Hall.  Madame Favri and other equally distinguished artists performed there.  There was a stage at the western end of the building.  In 1884, Mr. O. W. Childs gave us our first theater and named it the Childs' Opera House.  It was located on the east side of Main Street, a little below First Street, and had a capacity of about 1,800 people.  After that was built, all the leading artists and theatrical companies of the country visited Los Angeles when in California.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I heard Col. Robert G. Ingersoll deliver one of his noted lectures there.  He came onto the stage unannounced, walked to the footlights, with a pleasant smile on his face, and began, and the first words he uttered were:</P>
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095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RESIDENCE OF J. A. GRAVES.  PHOTO TAKEN IN 1888, JUST AFTERTHE HOUSE WAS SOLD</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"After all, how little we know."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Some disturber in the audience arose and began to abuse him, and was promptly taken care of by attendants and put out of the building.  Ingersoll stood as immovable as a statue, during the disturbance, and when it had quieted down he again began with:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"After all, how little we know."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Another disturber, a little closer to the stage, jumped up, and of course he did not proceed.  This party was hustled out of the building.  Again he began:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"After all, how little we know."</P>
095.sgm:<P>A third party arose and the same performance was gone over with.  When the house had quieted down, he looked it over, with a pleasant smile on his face, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"If there are any other gentlemen with anything to say, I wish they would all arise at once, as we would save time."</P>
095.sgm:<P>There being no response, and the audience thereby placed in a good humor, he again began:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"After all, how little we know," and for three-quarters of an hour I listened to such a verbal treat as I had never heard in my life.  His presence was dignified, his voice resonant and sonorous, his diction perfect and his eloquence unsurpassable.  No matter how much anyone might disagree with the sentiments he uttered, one had to give him due meed for his accomplishments as a most brilliant orator.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The next theater of any moment was the Burbank.  It was built by Dr. Burbank, after he sold his ranch at the lower end of the San Fernando Valley, known as the Providencia.  This theater was rendered quite famous by Oliver Morosco, who was the lessee of it for many years and produced many of his best plays there.  Since those days, theaters have multiplied innumerably.  Most of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>The churches were quite well represented here in 1875.  Of course the oldest church was "Our Lady of the Angels," opposite the Plaza on the west side of Main Street, near the corner of what is now Sunset Boulevard.  The Catholic Cathedral, St. Vibiana, was in course of construction.  The first services were held there on the 7th day of April, 1876, Palm Sunday.  I attended service in the cathedral on Christmas Day, 1876, with Miss Sue Glassell, a daughter of Mr. Andrew Glassell, the attorney.  Bishop Mora delivered an address in Spanish.  Of course I did not understand it, but I thought it was one of the most eloquent discourses, as far as the flow of language was concerned, that I ever listened to.  After him a young Irish priest also delivered a sermon, and the burden of his song was:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The way to resist timptation is to avide it," and he played upon that theme, it seemed to me, for hours.  What he lacked in experience he made up in enthusiasm.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On the front of the cathedral were the letters "D. O. M.," meaning Dominus Omnium Magister, God, the ruler of all things.  Mr. Louis Mesmer, who owned the United States Hotel, had a great deal to do with the erection of the cathedral.  He had leased the hotel to a very combative Pennsylvania Dutchman named Jake Metzger.  They were always in a row.  If it was not about the rent it was about repairs, which Metzger thought ought to be made, sot hat there was not the best of feeling between them.  I was taking a walk one evening, after office hours, and passing up Main Street, on the west side, just opposite the cathedral, when Metzger came out of a dwellinghouse where he had been to call on a sick friend. I knew <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Gentlemen, can you tell me what those letters, D. O. M., on that building, mean?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Before I could answer, Metzger said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Yes, ma'am, yes, ma'am, I can tell you.  That means `Damn Old Mesmer.'"</P>
095.sgm:<P>St. Athanasius Episcopal Church occupied a brick building at the northwest corner of Temple and New High streets, on lands now embraced within the site of the present county court house.  When the court house was built, the land was sold to the county and a new church built on Olive Street, on premises now occupied by the Biltmore Hotel.  When the hotel acquired the land a new church was built on the west side of Figueroa Street a little south of Sixth Street.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Presbyterians had a very good church building at the southeast corner of Broadway and Second streets, and a few doors south of it was the Jewish Synagogue, a good substantial brick building.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Methodists had quite a large church on Fort street, now Broadway, just south of Third Street.  It was being built when I came here in 1875.  There was also a Congregational Church at the northeast corner of Third and Hill streets.  The Trinity M. E. Church, South, also had a church building, the location of which I cannot now place, as did also the Church of Christ.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles High School, at that time, stood on the lot on which the present court house is built, at Temple and Broadway.  There was also a public school at Second and Spring.  This lot was sold during the '80's to Mr. L. J. Rose, of San Gabriel, and if I remember rightly, the money derived from that sale was used in purchasing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles Bar Association, still in existence, was organized December 3rd, 1878, with twenty-two charter members.  All of them are dead except Justice E. M. Ross, Judge A. W. Hutton, Mr. R. F. Del Valle and myself.  Mr. Andrew Glassell was elected president of it, A. W. Hutton secretary, and myself treasurer, for the first year of its existence.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>THE PASSING OF THE DOMINANT RACE</P>
095.sgm:<P>THE HISTORY of Los Angeles County, from the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, following the termination of the war between Mexico and the United States, until, say, 1880, could well be designated the history of "the passing of the dominant race."</P>
095.sgm:<P>A census taken of Los Angeles in 1830, enumerates but forty people who were not of the Mexican or Spanish race.  When the war above mentioned terminated, the native Californians were the leading landed proprietors of the county and, in fact, of all of California.  Several million acres of the best land in this county were included in grants made either by the King of Spain, or the Governors of Mexico or the Governors of California, authorized by decree of the departmental assembly, to Spanish subjects.  All land not embraced within these grants became the property of the United States Government and title thereto has been acquired under the homestead or preemption laws, or through the location of government scrip thereon, or through a grant made by the government to the Texas &amp; Pacific Railroad Company to which the Southern Pacific Railroad Company succeeded.  Practically all the land of any value, which the government owned in Los Angeles County, has been disposed of.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The United States Government recognized the titles of the holders of Mexican Grants, and in 1852 Congress passed an act providing for the presentation by these owners to a court of claims for confirmation of the grants.  One of these courts sat in Los Angeles.  The owners of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The title to lands resulting from such a patent is absolutely good.  Many assaults have been made on these patented titles, but without success.  The supreme court of the United States has laid down and adhered to the rule that nothing but fraud between the claimant and the government officials would justify the setting aside of such a patent.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The native Californians who owned these granted lands led a pastoral life.  They lived in a patriarchal manner, sometimes several generations occupying the same family homestead.  They had their retainers and followers, many of them full or half-blooded Indians.  At the time that Dana made his trip, detailed in "Two Years Before the Mast," and for long afterwards, these people disposed of their hides and tallow to the owners of vessels which beat up and down the coast for cargo.  They received largely merchandise of various character and quality, for their products.  Sometimes a little money changed hands.  They led a happy, care-free life.  They loved the fiesta and the fandango.  They indulged in cock-fighting, horse-racing, and too often they gambled heavily, and many of them drank to excess.  They were careless of money, spent it freely when they had it, and did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Some of the grantees named in the grants above mentioned disposed of them prior to presentation to the court of claims.  In such cases, confirmation was sought and obtained in the name of such grantee, usually an American citizen.</P>
095.sgm:<P>With the establishment of a state government, taxes, something hitherto unknown to the native Californian, were imposed.  Also came competition in business with the Americans.  The natives were not equal to the emergencies which constantly confronted them.  Frequently their immense holdings were sold for a meager tax.  To redeem their lands from such a sale and its accumulated costs, and to obtain money to meet ever-increasing new demands of changed conditions, a mortgage, at a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>In Los Angeles County, James G. Lander, a prominent attorney here, was, for many years, the commissioner in these cases.  He wrote as legible a hand as I ever saw.  Hundreds of his reports are in the records of these cases in the county clerk's office.  He would begin with the name of the original grantee.  If dead, he would trace his heirs, direct and collateral.  If transfers of undivided interests had been made, the extent of the interest, and to whom made, was specified.  He would conclude by finding who was entitled to the property and in what proportions they held it, and to what encumbrance, if any, each portion was subject.  Upon the coming in of the commissioner's report, referees would be appointed.  They would view the premises and appraise them, have a surveyor set off by metes and bounds that portion of the property, quantity and quality considered, to which each party to the suit was entitled.  When the referees made their final report <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>The native Californians simply could not make headway against or in competition with American progress.  One by one they faded away.  Many of them died in poverty.  Their children became day-laborers.  Occasionally one of the younger generation received an education and assumed a position of importance and respectability in the community, but the majority of them did not.  It is the sad story of the downfall of a happy, peaceful people, passing off the earth in less than two generations.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Of all the Mexican or Spanish grants in Los Angeles County, I know of but one, the San Pedro Ranch, popularly known as the Dominguez Ranch, which is all, or nearly all, still owned by the descendants of the original grantees.  Quite a number of the Sepulveda family, also, still own very valuable holdings in the Rancho Los Palos Verdes where the city of San Pedro is situated.</P>
095.sgm:<P>No sadder picture could be drawn than that of the legal despoliation, by the Americans, of the original grantees of these immense land holdings.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>SPANISH AND MEXICAN LAND GRANTS IN LOS ANGELES COUNTY.  SAN FERNANDO RANCH LITIGATION.  WILL OF JOSE BARTOLOME TAPIA.  GRANT LITIGATION</P>
095.sgm:<P>I WILL endeavor to explain in detail the principal land grants in Los Angeles County, and for that purpose will begin at the top of the map, near the Kern County boundary line.  The first grant encountered is La Liebre, a ranch of 48,820 acres, confirmed to J. M. Flores and patented June 10, 1879.  A very large portion of it lies in Kern County.  It has always been a most wonderful stock ranch.  The ranch is now owned by the El Tejon Ranch Company, of which Gen. M.H. Sherman is president.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Coming south on the Ridge Route, lying off to the right at a considerable distance from the present road over the Ridge Route, and in very rough territory, is the Rancho Temescal, much of which is also embraced in Ventura County.  This ranch comprised 13,339 acres, was confirmed to Refugio de la Cuesta, and was patented September 13, 1871.  There is a Cuesta grade, just beyond San Luis Obispo, the summit of which is 1,500 feet elevation.  It would be gratifying to know whether there was a Cuesta Ranch in that neighborhood, or whether the grade was named after some one of that name who was probably related to Refugio de la Cuesta.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The next grant encountered is the San Francisco, of 48,000 acres, also lying partly in Ventura County, which was confirmed to Jacoba Feliz and patented on February 12, 1875.  At the date of the patent it was owned by Mr. Henry M. Newhall of San Francisco, and is still the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Crossing the mountains through which the San Fernando Tunnel runs, we reach the Rancho Ex-Mission de San Fernando, which has quite a history.  It was sold during the war with Mexico by Governor Pio Pico, acting under a decree of the departmental assembly, to Eulogio de Celis, a native of Spain, then living in Los Angeles, for the modest sum of $14,000.  Some time after the war, Celis sold to Pico an undivided one-half of the property.  In 1874, Pico sold his undivided one-half of the property to the San Fernando Farm Homestead Association, the principal promoters of which were Mr. Isaac Lankershim and his son-in-law, Mr. I.N. Van Nuys, for $114,000.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The San Fernando Farm Homestead Association brought suit to partition the rancho and there was set aside to it the south one-half of the rancho, containing some 69,000 acres.  In 1875, Eulogio de Celis, executor of his father's will, sold the north one-half of the property to Mr. George K. Porter of San Francisco, Mr. B. F. Porter of Monterey County, and Mr. Charles Maclay, then living in Los Angeles, for $115,000.  These figures were then considered high.  Compared with present prices of the same lands, it would seem that some one had touched this property with Aladdin's lamp!</P>
095.sgm:<P>I will relate an incident in connection with a portion of the north half of the San Fernando Ranch, which made my wedding day, the 23rd day of October, 1879, one of the most miserable I ever spent.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1878, some 16,000 acres of the north half of the ranch had been sold in a foreclosure proceeding in the case of de Celis vs. Maclay, brought in the district court of Los Angeles County, seventeenth judicial district, for something like $37,000.  Mr. Geo. K. Porter was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Knowing the time that the morning train would arrive, I was at the express office, awaiting the letter containing the draft, when my friend, Mr. Pridham, the agent of the company, seeing me there, wanted to know if he could do anything for me.  I told him I was awaiting an express letter by the morning train.  He replied:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"You will not get it today.  There is a freight train off the track in one of the long tunnels in the Tehachapi Mountains, and the passenger train cannot possibly get in here before night."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Going back to the office, I told Mr. Chapman the situation and he was in an immediate panic.  However, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"I am awfully sorry, Chapman, but we made a mistake in figuring the amount the other day.  It was contained in two different amounts, in the certificate of sale, and it will take $1,800 more than the figures I gave you."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I never saw a man as near collapsing as my good friend, J. S. Chapman, did.  I told him not to get panic-stricken, as I always had a little money, but to stay where he was, and I hurried over to the Commercial Bank, where I was doing business.  I was just in time, as they had run everything into the vault and were about to lock it up.  I drew my check, got the $1,800, hurried back with it, we effected the redemption, received from the sheriff the proper certificate, and recorded it in the recorder's office, a little before five o'clock.  Chapman shook hands with me, and speaking with the usual drawl which he had, said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"You go off and get married!  I am going home and go to bed and sleep for forty-eight hours.  I haven't slept a wink for two nights, worrying over this thing."</P>
095.sgm:<P>The San Fernando Ranch went through much litigation, both the north and the south half.  I was in all of it, as an attorney.  In 1890, some 1,200 squatters attempted to make filings on various portions of the ranch, violently took possession of it, drove off the stock of the Los Angeles Farming &amp; Milling Company, took possession of haystacks and carried on ruthlessly.  My firm <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Porter was an explosive individual and was perfectly willing to protect his rights, if necessary, by force.  I advised him that he had a perfect right to do so.  As fast as a squatter would arrive on his lands, he would have a force of his employes there, with wagons.  They would gather up everything the squatters had brought, haul it off the ranch and leave it in the county road.  One squatter was more belligerent than the others, and on the advice of Mr. James McLachlan (still living), who was then district attorney, Porter swore out a warrant against him and caused his arrest for malicious mischief.  He was discharged by a justice of the peace of San Fernando, and he immediately sued Porter for $10,000 damages.  We tried the case before a jury and Judge W. P. Wade instructed the jury to return a verdict for the defendant.  The plaintiff appealed, but the judgment was affirmed.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Van Nuys, who represented the Los Angeles Farming &amp; Milling Company, would not countenance any violence on the part of his employes.  The company had twelve stations on the south half of the ranch with 300 employes, and they had been so insulted and bullyragged by the squatters, that they would have welcomed a chance to use force upon them.  But Mr. Van Nuys said the law owed him and must afford him protection, so we brought various actions against the squatters.  One of them, the Los Angeles Farming &amp; Milling Company vs. Thompson and others, went to trial.  We obtained a verdict for the plaintiff in that action.  It was appealed and the supreme court of the state affirmed the judgment.  The defendants appealed to the supreme court of the United States, which also affirmed the judgment of the supreme court of California.</P>
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095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PIONEERS OF LOS ANGELES</P>
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095.sgm:<P>This ended the matter.  We got out injunctions of so stringent a nature that the squatters could not stay on the land, after the suits were brought; in fact, they did not want to.  There was an organized band of them, and they forced us to bring all this litigation in the hopes that the doctrine would be settled that the lands were open to private settlement.  There was much involved, and we necessarily went to great pains in preparing our cases for trial.  We even went so far as to have the exterior lines of the ranch re-run by a competent surveyor.  There was no material difference between this surveyor's work, and that of the surveyor who made the survey for the patent.</P>
095.sgm:<P>One peculiar thing struck us during the trial.  All the surveys began near the Cahuenga Pass, and ran northerly, clear around the ranch, back to the starting point.  There were many trees marked as stations of the survey.  Every mark still left on a tree was on the south side rather than the north side.  There was also a great conflict about Station 39 in the Calabasas Hills, the extreme southwesterly boundary of the Rancho San Fernando.  The patent called for a live oak tree, but the courses and distances led to a white oak tree, usually called a post oak, and there was apparently no mark upon it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>One Saturday during the trial, I went to lunch at a celebrated restaurant kept by Jerry Illich.  I was upstairs, and in the same room was Romulo Pico, a son of Andreas Pico who was formerly one of the owners of the San Fernando Ranch.  He called over to me and asked me how we were coming along with the San Fernando trial.  I told him, all right.  He then said that he helped survey the ranch for the patent, when he was fifteen years old.  This was interesting.  I asked him why it was that every tree, which was a station of the survey, was marked on the south side instead of the north side, when they had approached it from the north side.  He answered:</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"When we had run the exterior boundaries, Surveyor Hancock turned around and rechecked them, going the other way, and as we came to each tree which had been selected as a monument, we then removed the bark and cut into the tree, `S. F. Sta.,' giving the number."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I asked him if he could locate Station 39, the extreme southwesterly boundary of the rancho.  He said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Sure.  It was a large post oak tree.  I have been there hunting, many times since."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Remember that the field notes called for a live oak tree.  The next day was Sunday, but I immediately made an arrangement with him to visit the ground with me.  When we got into the neighborhood of Station 39, he went straight to it.  A foreman of one of the ranches was with us.  He had an ax in his express wagon.  Going to the south side of the tree there was evidence, very slight, however, that the bark had been disturbed.  We cut into the bark, removed a piece about 18 inches square, and there was the mark on the tree, "S. F. Sta. 39," and the reverse of it showed plainly on the piece of bark that we took off the tree.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I carried this bark into court the next morning, and it settled for all time the true monument of Station 39.  In the forty years that elapsed from the time of the survey for the patent and the survey made for us at the time of this suit, the scar occasioned by the removal of the bark from the post oak at Station 39, in order to mark the number of the station on the trunk of the tree, had been entirely overgrown by new bark in such a manner that it took the closest inspection to discover that any bark had ever been removed.  This most unjust litigation forced upon the Los Angeles Farming &amp; Milling Company cost the company, in court costs, witness and attorney's fees, not less than $50,000.</P>
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095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>On the western boundary of the San Fernando and bounded on three sides by it, is a small ranch, El Escorpion, originally granted to an Indian named Odon and confirmed to the Indian Urbano, et al.  It contained 1,109 acres and patent was issued to it in 1873.  This property was subsequently acquired by Mr. Miguel Leonis, a wealthy sheep raiser.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Situated entirely within the limits of the San Fernando, and near its southern boundary and about equally distant from its eastern and western boundaries, is the Rancho El Encino, of 4,460 acres, confirmed to V. De La Osa, and patented January 8, 1875.  The reason for this property being a patented grant lying within the boundaries of the San Fernando Ranch, is that it was granted prior to the grant of the San Fernando.  The Encino, in time, was owned by the Garnier Brothers and afterwards by Juan Bernard.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Also situated entirely within the boundaries of the north half of the Rancho San Fernando, was the celebrated Mission of San Fernando church property, patented to the Roman Catholic Church, and containing in all, but in several pieces, seventy-six acres of land.  This, at one time, was one of the most prosperous missions in the State of California; had more cattle, horses and sheep than any of the other missions.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Some distance to the west of the San Fernando lies the Las Virgines, of some 26,000 acres, lying partly in Ventura County, which was confirmed to Maria Antonia Machado and patented September 5th, 1853.</P>
095.sgm:<P>This ranch was at one time subject to considerable litigation, but the title was finally satisfactorily straightened out.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Also in the same neighborhood was the Rancho El Conejo, which was confirmed to J. de la Noriega, for 48,571 acres, and was patented June 8th, 1873.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Much of this ranch also lies in the county of Ventura.</P>
095.sgm:<P>South of the San Francisco and west of the San Fernando came the Rancho Simi, a very small portion of which lies in Los Angeles County.  That portion of the rancho in Los Angeles County is exceedingly rough, taking in the summit of the Santa Susana Mountains.  The Chatsworth tunnel of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company runs under the Simi at about midway, north and south, of the rancho.  It contains 113,609 acres, was confirmed and patented to J. de la Noriega on January 29, 1865.  He was also the patentee of the adjoining ranch already spoken of, the El Conejo.  Of course the larger portion of the Simi lies in Ventura County.</P>
095.sgm:<P>East of the San Fernando, at what might be called the lower mouth of the valley, lies the Rancho Providencia, of 4,438 acres.  It was confirmed to D. W. Alexander and others and was, for many years, owned by Dr. Burbank.  When he sold it to a syndicate which organized the Providencia Land &amp; Water Company, he built the Burbank Theater, on South Main Street, in Los Angeles.  It was always a very excellent rancho, has been subdivided and re-subdivided, and now contains a large population.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Adjoining it on the south and east, and extending into the mountains, was the Los Feliz, confirmed and patented to Maria Ygnacio Verdugo, and containing 6,647 acres.  It was afterwards owned by Thomas Bell of San Francisco.  On April 18, 1879, I, acting for Bell, sold it to Griffith Jenkins Griffith, who, years afterwards, presented the hill land of the rancho, and some bottom land, to the City of Los Angeles as a public park.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The land comprising the original City of Los Angeles was also a Mexican grant, and it and the Feliz Ranch were co-terminus for quite a distance.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>North of the Los Feliz and east of Providencia and of the San Fernando, and extending to the Arroyo Seco on the east and the Sierra Madre Mountains on the north (with one exception only) is the Rancho San Rafael, containing 36,480 acres, confirmed to Julio Verdugo, et al., and patented January 28, 1882.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The very prosperous city of Glendale and many other country settlements are upon the San Rafael.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Rancho La Canada, of 5,000 acres, was confirmed to Jonathan R. Scott, and patented August 1, 1866.  It lies in elongated form next to the Sierra Madre Mountains and the Rancho Los Feliz, and embraces a considerable portion of Flintridge, which is now undergoing very high-class development.</P>
095.sgm:<P>West of the Canada, and east of the northeast corner of the San Fernando, lies the Rancho Tujunga, which was confirmed to Don David Alexander, contained 16,600 acres of land, and was patented October 7, 1874.</P>
095.sgm:<P>It will be more convenient to take up some of the other grants lying south of the San Fernando at this time and come back to the patented ranchos lying north of the City of Los Angeles later on.  Crossing the Santa Monica Mountains from the San Fernando Rancho, the first grant encountered is the Rancho San Vicente y Santa Monica, which, for some miles, has a co-terminus boundary with the San Fernando.  It was confirmed to R. Sepulveda, contained 30,250 acres of land, and was patented July 28, 1881.  This rancho had quite a frontage on the Pacific Ocean, and north of a straight line, which would be the northern boundary of that portion of the rancho which extended to the Pacific Ocean, was the Rancho Boca de Santa Monica, confirmed to Ysidro Reyes, et al., containing 6,656 acres of land and patented July 21, 1882.  Santa Monica, Ocean Park and Venice are situated upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The Topango Malibu Sequit was originally granted to Jose Bartolome Tapia in the year 1804, but the document granting the same to him was lost, and Leon V. Pruhomme succeeded to his title, petitioned for confirmation and obtained it.  It contained 13,350 acres of land and was patented August 29, 1873.  Don Mateo Keller finally succeeded to the title to the ranch and it was patented to him.  In 1872, he made an agreement to sell the land to one Carrie S. Lewis, a resident of Cleveland, Ohio.  On February 26, 1874, Mrs. Lewis having defaulted in her payments, Anson Brunson brought an action for Don Mateo Keller, against Carrie S. Lewis and her husband, G. F. Lewis, to quiet title to the premises.  Judgment was rendered in accordance with the prayer of the complaint, in the lower court.  An appeal was taken and the judgment was modified by the supreme court to the extent that the Lewises were given a short time within which to pay the balance, and the judgment provided that should they not pay, a decree should be entered cancelling their rights.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I am of the opinion that the action which Brunson brought had been the form of action used in California up to that time in cases of this kind, but the judgment of the supreme court, in Keller vs. Lewis, established a new procedure in accordance therewith.</P>
095.sgm:<P>A rather singular thing was the introduction in evidence in the trial of the above mentioned case, of a copy of the will of Jose Bartolome Tapia, from which I will quote, as it is a fair sample of the wills made in those days.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>He first commended his soul to God, and asked that his body be interred wherever the Revered Fathers of the Mission San Gabriel designated.  He then specified very particularly what he owed, and first said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that I owe to the Mission of San Diego three hundred dollars, and if Father Fernando says it is more, it is what the Father may say.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that I owe to Father Jose Maria Salbidea eighty dollars, and three pounds of sugar, and I know not the price, and this is all I owe to the Mission Bureaus and other neighbors of mine.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that Ensign Joaquin Maritorena owes me one hundred and eighty dollars.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that Corporal Antonio Maria Ortega agreed to pay me what his deceased father owed me.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that Ensign Delgado owes me eighteen dollars in cash--it is $12.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare Orlando Pena owes me four dollars.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that Private Marcos Oballe owes me three dollars--cash.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that Private Ramon Padilla owes me three dollars.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that Sergeant Matias owes me one dollar.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare Sabaleta owes me fifteen dollars.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare Alencio Valdez owes me twelve dollars.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare Ygnacio Rendon owes me ten dollars.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare Ramon Buelua owes me ten dollars."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He then went on to specify the livestock he had and enumerated every possible thing that could be in his house, and in this enumeration is the following:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Seven boxes with their keys, one writing-case furnished, one Holy Christ, thirteen Saints, two liquor cases complete, one traveling trunk," etc.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The enumeration concluded, he further said:</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"I declare that Gabriel Sorelo owes me twenty-six dollars in money, which I paid Father Sarilla for him the year 1808.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that Jose Antonio Carrillo owes me a lot of lumber, which appears from his signature.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that Antonio Priones owes me a tame saddle mare mule and one tame he saddle mule, and I already found the he mule.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that he owes me five dollars for a pair of leggings.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that he owes me a cow and calf which he agreed to give me for Antonio Ygnacio Abila the year 1823.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that among my accounts of the Bureau of San Diego there are fifty dollars that Torosio Feliz gave me for the said cattle, which remained of the deceased Rocha."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He then directed Corporal Jose Tiburcio Tapia, his legitimate son, and his legitimate wife, Maria Francisca Mauricia Villalovo, to immediately divide all the property among those who are entitled to it.  After various exhortations to his son and to his wife, he revoked all other wills and executed this will on April 15th, 1824.</P>
095.sgm:<P>By a postscript he added:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I declare that it has been my will that there remain to my wife, for her maintenance, the vineyard with the little planting ground, and it is from where it is fenced to the ditch of the deceased Mariano Verdugo; to carry on the vineyard let her have the still, the kettle, two yoke of oxen, two pipes and three barrels.  All the saints are for my old woman, the mill and the house.  And the ranch and all the cattle belong to said wife."</P>
095.sgm:<P>This will shows the simple honesty of these old native Californians.  It is too bad that they fell easy victims to the American settlers.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>Mr. H. W. Keller succeeded to the title of his father to the Rancho Topango Malibu, his sisters receiving other properties, in the City of Los Angeles, in lieu of their interest therein.  Keller sold it for upwards of three hundred thousand dollars, to Frederick K. Rindge, whose family still own it.  It is now supposed to be worth many millions of dollars.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Bounded on the west and north by the Rancho San Vicente y Santa Monica, on the east by the Rancho Rodeo de las Aguas, and on the south by the Ranchos La Ballona and Rincon de los Bueyes, was the Rancho San Jose de Buenos Aires, which was confirmed and patented to B. D. Wilson, contained 4,338 acres, and patent was issued December 4, 1875.  It has become an exceedingly valuable piece of property.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Immediately east of the last mentioned property was the Rancho Rodeo de las Aguas, which means "a gathering of the waters."  Where the townsite of Sherman is situated, on this rancho, in 1875, was a very marshy piece of land, where a number of springs of pure water bubbled up from beneath the surface, forming most excellent pools, where mallards and canvas-backs loved to resort.  With the development of water for adjacent lands these springs, of course, in time subsided, leaving the land open for occupation.  This rancho subsequently was almost entirely owned by Messrs. Hammel &amp; Denker, hotel keepers of Los Angeles, and quite large property holders in that city.  The rancho was confirmed and patented to Manuel R. Valdez, contained 4,419.31 acres, and patent was issued January 27, 1871.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Lying east of the Rodeo de las Aguas was the Rancho La Brea, confirmed and patented to A. J. Rocha, containing 4,439 acres.  Patent was issued January 15, 1873.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Henry Hancock, an old-time surveyor of Los <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Between this rancho and the city limits of Los Angeles was a considerable amount of U. S. Government land, the title to which has been acquired under the preemption or homestead laws, and which is now thickly populated.</P>
095.sgm:<P>South of the Rodeo de las Aguas was the Rancho Rincon de los Bueyes, meaning "the corner of the cattle," containing 3,127 acres, confirmed and patented to Francisco Higuera.  Patent to it was issued August 27, 1872.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Directly east of the above was the Rancho Las Cienegas, containing 4,439 acres, confirmed and patented to Juan Abila and others on June 15th, 1871.  In 1875 this rancho was almost entirely a swamp, but has been so drained as to become exceedingly valuable for residence purposes.  More United States Government land fell between it and the City of Los Angeles, all of which is now built upon.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In one morning's shoot on the Cienega, H. M. Mitchell (at one time sheriff of the county) and myself killed eighty-seven jack-snipe.  I am free to confess that Mitchell killed many more of them than I did.  Up to that time I had not gotten onto their curves.  Judge F. W. Henshaw, for many years a justice of the supreme court of the state, one day showed me how.  As a rule, a jack-snipe, when flushed, does not fly far.  When he goes to alight, he simply closes his wings and drops to the ground.  If a hunter will wait until that time comes, he will kill <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>West of the Rancho Los Bueyes was the Rancho La Ballona, confirmed to Antonio Machado, containing 13,919 acres, and patented December 18, 1873.  This ranch also contained much marsh land and, together with the Cienega, afforded the early residents of Los Angeles most excellent duck, snipe and goose shooting.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Immediately east of the Ballona came the Rancho Cienega O Paso de la Tijera, meaning the cienega, or "the pass of the scissors," so named because there was a valley on it with a pass at the top, and another valley beyond, which easily, in imagination, could be likened to the handles and the blades of a pair of scissors when the same were opened.  This property passed to the ownership of E. J. Baldwin, and the Baldwin Hills have become a very rich producing oil field.  U. S. Government land surrounded this rancho on the south and east.</P>
095.sgm:<P>South of the Ballona came the Rancho Sausal Redondo, containing 22,468 acres, confirmed and patented to Antonio Ignacio Abila on March 22nd, 1875, and setting into this ranch, near its northeast corner, was the Rancho Agua de la Centinella, granted and patented to Bernardino Abila, containing 2,219 acres, patent having been issued August 29, 1872.</P>
095.sgm:<P>This ranch and the Sausal Redondo, in 1875, were owned by Mr. Dan Freeman.  The Sausal Redondo had almost ten miles of frontage on the Pacific Ocean.  The town of Ballona was situated in it.  It had an average width of five miles and there was quite a large amount of United States Government land lying to the east of it, title of all of which has been acquired in various manners and is now individually owned by various people and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>In 1875, ranging in the Baldwin Hills and on the Sausal Redondo, were seven wild antelopes, the remnant of a great herd that once inhabited this portion of Los Angeles County.  In the next few years they were all killed off.</P>
095.sgm:<P>South and east of the Sausal Redondo, and extending over to the San Gabriel River which empties into the Harbor of San Pedro, and with a frontage of possibly two miles on the ocean, where the town of Redondo Beach is situated, lies the Rancho San Pedro, commonly known as the Dominguez Rancho.  It was confirmed and patented to Manuel Dominguez, contained 43,179 acres of land, and patent to it was issued December 18, 1858.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Manuel Dominguez was one of the sterling men of the old regime.  He held most of this property intact, and it is still owned by his heirs.  It has proven to be one of the richest oil territories in the State of California.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Southwesterly of the San Pedro, and bounded on three sides by the Pacific Ocean, was the Rancho Los Palos Verdes, confirmed and patented to Jose L. Sepulveda, for 31,629 acres, on June 23, 1880.  The town of San Pedro, the government lighthouse at White's Point, and the government military fortifications, where guns of immense calibre and carrying power are mounted, are also on this property.  This was a most excellent stock ranch.  The western portion of it can never be very popular for beach settlements, for the reason that strong winds prevail there all summer long and the coast is not suitable for bathing purposes.  The entire beach is composed of sharp black rocks and immediately outside of it are heavy kelp beds, which detract very largely from its value.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>On the extreme southwest is a place which has always been called Portuguese Bend, noted for its fishing, and especially for its abalones</P>
095.sgm:<P>Near the northeast corner of the San Pedro Ranch, and bounded on the east by the Rancho San Antonio and on the west by United States Government lands, lies the Rancho La Tajauta, confirmed and patented to Enrique Abila, et al., containing 3,559 acres, and patented January 8, 1871.  It was a splendid piece of land.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Northeast of it, and running up to the southeast boundary of the lands within the original boundaries of the City of Los Angeles, lies the Rancho San Antonio.  It was confirmed and patented to Antonio Maria Lugo on July 20th, 1866, and contained 29,513 acres of land.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Still northeast of the San Antonio, came the Rancho La Merced, containing 2,363.75 acres, confirmed to F. P. F. Temple and Juan Mateo Sanchez, and patented February 13, 1872.</P>
095.sgm:<P>North of it was the Rancho Potrero Grande, containing 4,631 acres, confirmed and patented to Juan Mateo Sanchez, patent issued July 19, 1855; and east of it was the Rancho de Felipe Lugo, containing 4,042 acres, and confirmed and patented to Morillo and Romero, patent issued June 5, 1871.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Juan Mateo Sanchez owned the La Merced, now one of the richest oil fields in California, the Potrero Grande, and the Potrero de Felipe Lugo.  When the banking house of Temple &amp; Workman failed, in 1875, its owners borrowed $225,000 from E. J. Baldwin, of San Francisco, with interest at 1 1/4% per month, compounded monthly.  Included in the mortgage were 40,000 acres of the Puente Rancho, owned by William Workman, the Temple Block at the junction of Temple, Spring and Main streets, a valuable piece of property on Spring Street, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The Merced was rough hill land and could not be sold.  It was only fit for sheep pasture.  But subsequently, what is called the Montebello Oil Fields were developed there, and Baldwin's two daughters have received immense fortunes in oil royalties from the property.  As their lands are held by large companies who drill only one well to five acres, they will probably receive royalties from the land as long as they live.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Coming towards the coast, and immediately east of the San Antonio and the Merced, is the Rancho Paso de Bartolo.  This was confirmed and patented to the following persons and in the following amounts:</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>To Bernardino Guirado, 875 acres, patent issued September 27, 1867;</P>
095.sgm:<P>To Joaquin Sepulveda, 217 acres, patent issued March 17, 1881;</P>
095.sgm:<P>To Pio Pico, 8,891 acres, patent issued August 5, 1881.</P>
095.sgm:<P>This property was the last holding of Pio Pico in Los Angeles County.  When Brunson, Eastman &amp; Graves dissolved, the firm held the note of Pio Pico for $250, for services rendered.  I took the note in settlement.  Not being able to collect it of Pico, I sued upon it, and attached his interest in the Paso de Bartolo, which was generally known as the Ranchito.  I sold it under execution, after judgment obtained, and two days before the time I should have received a deed, Mr. A. Glassell, who was the attorney for Pico, paid me the amount necessary to redeem the land from that sale.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Paso de Bartolo was one of the most productive pieces of property in Los Angeles County.  In the old days, it was devoted almost entirely to growing of corn.  It is not generally known that in 1875, and for years afterwards, Los Angeles County produced more corn than the balance of the State of California.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Southwest of the Paso de Bartolo came the Rancho Santa Gertrudes.  It was confirmed to McFarland &amp; Downey, early bankers here, who had purchased the same from the original grantee of the Mexican government, and was patented for 17,602 acres on August 19, 1870.  It was also a splendid piece of farming land, and at a quite early date, considerable portions of it were subdivided by McFarland &amp; Downey, and settled upon by good sturdy farmers.  It was sold at that time at a ridiculously low price, in many instances not over $20 per acre.</P>
095.sgm:<P>South of the Santa Gertrudes and east of the Rancho <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>East of the Rancho Los Cerritos comes the Rancho Los Alamitos, which was confirmed and patented to Don Abel Stearns, who had acquired it from the original Mexican grantee, for 28,027 acres, patent issued August 29, 1874.  It was subsequently acquired by Michael Reese, whom I have spoken of before as the man who floated the bonds for the Southern Pacific Railroad Company to build its road from San Francisco to New Orleans, and it was acquired from his estate by I. W. Hellman, Jotham Bixby and John H. Bixby, a cousin of Jotham.</P>
095.sgm:<P>It included the very extensive oil field known as Signal Hill.  The three owners of this ranch formed the Alamitos Land Company and conveyed to it lands now embracing a very large portion of Long Beach, including Signal Hill.  They received immense returns from sales of lots in Long Beach.  They subdivided all of Signal Hill except about a hundred acres, embracing the east face thereof, which was too steep for subdivision, and sold off the lots on Signal Hill for from $100 to $250 apiece.  Many of these lots have produced hundreds of thousands of dollars in oil, since.  The Alamitos Land Company used to complain to itself, that the east face of the hill was too steep to be disposed of in subdivisions.  They subsequently leased it to the Shell Oil Company, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>While I was still practicing law I partitioned this property between the three owners.  The partition was by agreement.  L. C. Goodwin, Oscar Macy and a clergyman in Pasadena, named Robert Strong, were appointed by the three owners.  They appraised the property, mapped it in subdivisions, and the owners agreed upon a partition and deeded to each other.  Each owner received 7,200 acres of the Alamitos, and I think none of them have sold any particular portion of it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I sold for Mr. Hellman, acting as his attorney in fact, and making all the deeds, some 33 acres, where Seal Beach is situated, for about ten thousand dollars more than twice as much as he paid for his original interest in the entire rancho.  I know of no piece of ranch property in Los Angeles County that yielded a bigger return to the owners than the Alamitos.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Lying north of the Alamitos and east of the Cerritos and south of Santa Gertrudes, came the Rancho Los Coyotes, confirmed and patented to Andres Pico, et al., for 48,806 acres, on March 9th, 1873.  A large portion of this ranch was also acquired by the Bixbys and was used by them in connection with their other properties for sheep-raising purposes.  Many acres of this ranch were owned by the Stearns Ranch Co.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Lying east of the Alamitos, with a considerable frontage on the Pacific Ocean, came the Rancho La Bolsa Chica and the Rancho Las Bolsas.  The Bolsa Chica was patented to Joaquin Ruiz, for 8,107 acres, on May 7, 1874.  The very popular Bolsa Chica Gun Club is situated upon this rancho.  Some of the Club's acreage is now valuable oil-producing territory.  The Rancho Las <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>A portion of the Rancho Las Bolsas lies in Orange County.  Both of these ranchos were very valuable properties.  Just after I came to Los Angeles, a band of squatters attempted to settle upon them and also upon the San Joaquin Rancho, now in Orange County, but then in Los Angeles County.  The firm of Brunson, Eastman &amp; Graves, as attorneys for the Stearns Rancho Company, brought actions in ejectment, secured very drastic injunctions, and finally won out in all of the suits.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Away back in the early history of Los Angeles County, Don Abel Stearns made a trust deed to Alfred Robinson and others, to a great deal of land, including acreage in the Los Coyotes, La Bolsa Chica and Las Bolsas, and other ranchos now in Orange County, and afterwards the Stearns Rancho Company acquired all the lands in that trust.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Anaheim Union Water Company, which supplied water to the Anaheim settlement, which was a German settlement made in 1857, at various times brought suits against many people, involving water rights.  The Stearns <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Years later, after Mr. Chapman and I had dissolved, another suit was brought by the Anaheim Union Water Company, but none of our former clients were involved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>East of the Las Bolsas, fronting upon the ocean, and extending northeasterly many miles towards the mountains, was the Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana, confirmed and patented to Bernardino Yorba, et al., and containing 62,516 acres.</P>
095.sgm:<P>North of the Los Bolsas was the Rancho San Juan Cajon de Santa Ana, containing 35,970 acres, confirmed and patented to Juan Pacifico Ontiveras on May 5th, 1877.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Much of this land and of the La Habra, next spoken of, fell to the Stearns Rancho Company.  At the northwest corner of the San Juan Cajon de Santa Ana, and south of the Puente, was the Rancho La Habra, confirmed to Andreas Pico for 6,698 acres, and patented December 4, 1872.  Much of this property is now very valuable oil-producing territory.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Immediately north of the San Juan Cajon, and east of a portion of the La Puente, is the Rancho Rincon de la Brea, confirmed and patented to Juan Ybarra, containing 4,452 acres, patent issued November 14, 1864.  This is out of the oil belt and is pasturage land.  To the east of it was considerable United States Government land, the title to which has been acquired in various manners.</P>
095.sgm:<P>East of the San Juan Cajon came the Rancho Canon de Santa Ana, patented to Bernardino and Juan Yorba for 4,449 acres.  Jotham W. Bixby acquired quite a large acreage in the northeast corner of it, from one Davila.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Southeast of the northern part of the Santiago de Santa Ana came the Rancho Lomas de Santiago, containing 47,226 acres, and patented to Teodocio Yorba on February 1st, 1868.  James Irvine purchased it from the original grantee of the Mexican Government.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Lying between the Lomas de Santiago and the ocean, came the Rancho San Joaquin, confirmed and patented to Jose Sepulveda, for 48,808 acres, on September 16th, 1867, and which was also acquired by James Irvine.  The larger portion of both of these properties is still owned by the son of James Irvine.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Fronting on the ocean, and southeast of the San Joaquin, is the Rancho Niguel, confirmed and patented to Juan Abila, et al., for 13,316 acres, patent issued April 5th, 1873.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Northwest and southwest of the Lomas de Santiago came the Rancho Canada de los Alisos, which was confirmed to J. Serrano for 10,668 acres and patented June 29, 1871.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Lying well away from the ocean and bounded on two sides by the Mission Viejo or La Paz, was the Rancho Trabuco, which was confirmed and patented to Juan Foster for 22,184 acres, on August 6, 1866.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Mission Viejo, or La Paz, containing 46,432 acres, was confirmed and patented to Juan Foster on August 6th, 1866, he having acquired the title from Augustin Oliveras, the original grantee of the rancho.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Rancho Boca de la Playa lies between the Mission Viejo or La Paz and the ocean.  It was confirmed to E. Vejar for 6,607 acres and patented March 1st, 1879.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I have now discussed all of the Spanish Grants beginning with the Rancho La Liebre, and after getting to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Bordering on the La Puente on the northeast, came the little Rancho of Los Nogales, confirmed and patented to Maria Jesus de Garcia for 1,006 acres on June 20th, 1882.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then came the Rancho San Jose, confirmed and patented to Henry Dalton, Pancho Palomirez and Juan Vejar, for 22,340 acres, on January 20, 1875, and adjoining it came the San Jose Addition, confirmed and patented to the same people, for 4,430 acres, on December 4, 1875.  The prosperous community of Pomona and many other towns in that section are located on one or the other of these ranchos.</P>
095.sgm:<P>West of the San Jose came the Rancho Azusa, patented to Henry Dalton, for 4,431 acres, in May, 1876, he having succeeded to the title of the Mexican grantee of said land; and immediately west of the Azusa came the Azusa de Duarte, confirmed to A. Duarte, for 6,595 acres, and patented January 6, 1878.  This takes in all the grants in that section up to the San Bernardino County line.</P>
095.sgm:<P>South of the Azusa was the Rancho San Francisquito, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>On a portion of the Santa Anita was E. J. Baldwin's celebrated orange orchards, vineyards and stock breeding establishment.</P>
095.sgm:<P>West of the Santa Anita, and running to the Arroyo Seco, came the Rancho San Pascual, patented to Manuel Garfias for 13,603 acres, on April 5th, 1863.  This is now the site of prosperous Pasadena.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Cornering on the southeast corner of the San Pascual was another rancho called the San Pascual, but generally known among the native Californians as the San Pascualito, or little San Pascual.  It contained 2,000 varas square, and was patented to Juan Gallardo in 1881.  I obtained the patent to this property.  My home place of fifty acres, where I have lived for almost forty years, is a little south and east of the center of this 2,000 vara tract, which contained 1,001 acres of land.  A covered reservoir which I own at the foot of the hill, where Los Robles Avenue comes from Pasadena, would be about the northwest corner of this grant.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Island of Santa Catalina, while in the Pacific Ocean, is geographically situated within Los Angeles County.  Its grantee was Jose Maria Covarrubias, the father of Nick Covarrubias, several times Sheriff of Santa Barbara County and, at one time, United States Marshal of this district.  It contained 45,220 acres and was patented April 10, 1867, to James Lick, who had purchased it from Covarrubias.  Covarrubias was also the grantee of the Rancho Castaic, which lies in Ventura and Santa Barbara Counties.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The foregoing ranchos described in detail herein comprise all of the grants embraced in Los Angeles County as the county existed in 1875 and before Orange County was carved out of its southeast corner.</P>
095.sgm:<P>What occurred in Los Angeles County as to grants, from the King of Spain, or from the Governors of Mexico, or from the Governors of California, acting under decrees of the departmental assembly, occurred all over the State of California.  Wherever there was good pasture and water, you will find these grants.  Much government land fell in between some of them, the title to which has been acquired in various manners under the laws regulating the disposition of United States Government lands.  One can readily understand what a prolific source of litigation was the settlement of the title, and the partitioning of these various grants among their numerous owners.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>STOCKGROWERS' CUSTOMS.  CHANGE FROM A PASTORAL TO A FARMING COMMUNITY FAMOUS PROPERTIES IN SAN GABRIEL VALLEY</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN THE old days, each grant owner kenw the boundaries of his land.  All the owners were reasonably careful not to trespass upon their neighbors.  Stock, of course, would wander from one range to another.  In the spring, each locality would hold a rodeo, gather up all the stock in sight, separate the same according to brands, and each owner would take his stock, found at the rodeo, to his own premises.  Today, no one knows where the boundaries of the several grants are.  It is even possible that community settlements are of such a nature that improvements, including both dwelling-houses and places of business, may cross the dividing line and be situated in two contiguous grants.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The entire history of California might be called one of evolution.  In the old days, before the Americans came, the country was pastoral, the native Californians having sheep, cattle, and in many instances, too, many horses.  The gold rush, in Northern California, after the discovery of gold by Marshall at Colima, on one of General Sutter's grants, did not materially interfere with pastoral conditions.  Some people became farmers to, in part, supply food materials to the community, and the pack animals, and those used to haul, by teams, freight to the mining regions.</P>
095.sgm:<P>With the passing of placer mining, and the acquirement by Americans of some of these grants, the stock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>In time, however, the demand for wheat lessened as the production of it was increased in foreign countries.  By this time, our people, ever alert and progressive, found that the lands first devoted to wheat and other grains were well suited for the growth of vines and deciduous fruits.  In Southern California, the orange had been introduced by the Mission Fathers.  With the coming of the Americans to this portion of the state, the acreage in oranges was largely increased, and in Los Angeles, Riverside, Orange, San Bernardino and portions of Ventura County, the orange, and subsequently the lemon, have become, and remain, staple productions.</P>
095.sgm:<P>California soon had a great reputation for its excellent wines and brandies.  The grapes introduced by the Mission Fathers were what was called the Mission grape, and were very popular for many years.  I once heard Mr. B. Dreyfus, one of the large vineyard owners of Anaheim, say that our people would go a long time before they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PIONEERS OF LOS ANGELES</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Southern California especially excelled in sweet wines.  The old Angelica, Muscatel and Port, of this section, are as good as any that can be found anywhere.  Mr. L. J. Rose, at his celebrated place, "Sunny Slope," in the San Gabriel Valley, had excellent success with two white wines, one called "Burger," and the other "Blaue Elbin."  Both L. J. Rose and E. J. Baldwin also made a most excellent brandy.  Just when this industry was at the peak of its importance, the Eighteenth Amendment to the Constitution was passed, and while it is by no means enforced under the Volstead Act, it has certainly crippled an industry that brought great wealth and an excellent reputation to the Golden State.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I will relate a little incident regarding Baldwin's brandy.  When the Pacific Electric Railway line was built out Huntington Drive, I donated the right of way through my property, in front of my house, so that we now have lands on each side of the tracks.  I kept my cows, at that time, in an oak grove on the north side of the tracks.  A Chinaman, named Ah Yu, milked them.  H. A. Unruh, Baldwin's agent, for whom I had done <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The deciduous fruit industry has grown to enormous proportions, and the mountain sections of Northern California, which were the scenes of early hydraulic mining, are now celebrated, not only for the excellence, but for the astonishing output in car-loads, of deciduous fruits.  During the spring and summer months, this class of freight taxes our overland railroads to the limit of their capacity.  Even such perishable fruits as strawberries are shipped from California to Eastern markets, under refrigeration.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Here in Southern California, first the grapefruit, and next avocados, have assumed very considerable commercial importance.  For the first time, a few months ago, avocados were shipped East in car-load lots.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Slowly at first, but more rapidly later, the English walnut was introduced, and also the almond.  Both of them are now, in some localities, staple crops.  Latterly, there has been a considerable movement towards the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>As time went on, the lowly bean became a staple in Southern California.  You can ride for hours and hours, at this writing (April, 1927), and see the ground thoroughly prepared for bean culture.  They are just now beginning to plant.  For some reason, those who raise beans endeavor not to plant until the spring rains are well over.  It is a sight to gladden anyone's heart, to see how thoroughly the land is prepared for bean planting.  Special machinery for the preparation of the land, the cultivation of the plants while growing, and for harvesting the same when ripe, have been built for the use of the bean growers.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In passing through Ventura County, a few days since, where miles and miles of lands are ready for bean planting, I noticed that there are many acres of these bean lands planted to young walnut trees.  It will be several years before the walnuts will produce in paying quantities.  Until that time, these lands will be planted to beans, but after the walnut trees have attained size enough to thoroughly shade the ground, these lands will no longer be devoted to bean culture.</P>
095.sgm:<P>This state has also become an immense shipper of fresh vegetables.  Mr. Eugene Germain, who afterwards organized the Germain Fruit Company, and who, at the time, had a store in the Baker Block, was one of the pioneers in fresh fruit and vegetable shipments from Los Angeles County.  When Tombstone was discovered, there was a great migration from California to that section.  The Southern Pacific had just been finished through Arizona, and shipments of produce were immediately begun <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>When Hollywood was first settled, nearly all the land there was devoted to watermelon raising, and many of the watermelons grown there weighed from 100 to 110 pounds each.  I have seen as many as 100 melons, weighing upwards of 100 pounds each, stacked up in the Germain store in the Baker Block.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Of course, the productive capacity of the lands of California, for all of these products, has never been fully tested.  There are acres and acres of land which can yet be devoted to the production of fruits and vegetables, which are still being used for hay and grain production or for pasturage.  Brisbane, in his daily screeds in the Hearst papers, claims that Texas, when fully under cultivation, could feed the world.  This may be an exaggeration, but, acre for acre, whatever Texas can do, California can also do.  The only danger here is, that our population is going to be so great that much productive land will be used for townsites and residential purposes.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The development in that regard since 1875 is almost unbelievable.  At that time, one could ride, for miles and miles, in almost any direction, out of Los Angeles, and see only here and there a tumble-down farmhouse.  For instance, following the Pacific Electric Railway line into the San Gabriel Valley, after leaving a few scattered houses in East Los Angeles, until one got beyond Alhambra, there were but two houses passed.  One of them was that of Jesse Yarnell, one of the founders of the "Mirror," which was the predecessor of the Los Angeles Times.  He had filed upon a piece of government land and had built what was called a California house on the east slope of a hill now comprised in the western limits of Rose Hill.  Then, as you proceeded along the road, just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>There was a string of settlements along the foothills between Alhambra and Pasadena.  The first was that of H. D. Bacon.  He lived in the adobe house still standing in front of the Raymond Hotel.  He sold to Walter Raymond the site of the Raymond Hotel.  South and east of the lands he owned there, where Oneonta is now situated, he owned 1,200 acres of land, under fence, without a house on it.  East of Bacon came the General. Geo. H. Stoneman place, where Los Robles Avenue now leads from Pasadena towards Alhambra.  Next to him came Solomon Richardson, who had preempted a piece of government land that fitted in between the San Pascual and the San Pascualito grants.  East of Richardson was the Col. E. J. C. Kewen property, afterwards acquired by J. E. Hollenbeck, then by H. H. Maberry, and now owned by one of Mr. Huntington's companies.  It has been subdivided and is largely built on.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Next to Kewen came the magnificent property of B. D. Wilson, consisting of several hundred acres, extending up into Pasadena and down to Alhambra Road.  Adjoining him on the east was the property of Mrs. J. DeBarth Shorb, who was a daughter of B. D. Wilson.  She also had some 600 acres of land.  Most of these properties <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>East of the Shorb place came that of W. H. Winston.  Still east of the Winston property came the beautiful place of L. H. Titus, and then "Sunny Slope," one of the most celebrated estates in Southern California, made famous by L. J. Rose for oranges, wine, brandy and trotting stock.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Beyond "Sunny Slope" was the large estate of Mr. A. B. Chapman, a prominent lawyer of early days, and long a member of the firm of Glassell, Chapman &amp; Smith.  Next to Chapman came 6,500 acres of the Santa Anita Ranch, which was purchased of Newmark &amp; Cohn by E. J. Baldwin, and rendered by him as famous for the production of running stock as "Sunny Slope" was for trotting stock.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Beyond Baldwin, clear to San Bernardino, was what might then be called waste land, except at Cucamonga there was a very extensive vineyard, which was one of the first planted in Southern California.</P>
095.sgm:<P>What has been said as to the thin line of settlements in that direction, holds equally good in any direction that one took out of Los Angeles, except that the very large section of country from the Santa Monica Mountains to San Pedro, east of what is now Compton, had, if anything, fewer settlements, acre for acre, than those I have been describing.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I rejoice that it has been my privilege to have seen the magnificent growth, not only of Los Angeles City, but of hundreds of other municipalities scattered throughout Los Angeles County.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>MODES OF AMUSEMENT IN 1875.  LUDOVICI'S PUNCH, AND WHAT CAME OF IT</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN 1875, there were few amusements provided for the people of Los Angeles.  The young people arranged driving parties and picnics.  Driving behind good roadsters was universally practiced.  The Germans, and there were many of them, in the spring and summer had frequent picnics at Sycamore Grove, in the Arroyo Seco.  They were largely attended by many people who were not Germans.  The Turnverein society had athletic exhibitions and foot races.  There was a pavilion, where dancing was indulged in.  There was singing by glee clubs, considerable drinking of beer, and a general good time was had by all who attended.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There were no accommodations at the beaches.  Some of the leading families were accustomed to erect large tents in Santa Monica Canyon and, for a brief spell in hot weather, enjoy surf bathing.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I attended a picnic at Eaton's Canyon, on July 4th, 1879, arranged by several families.  What happened there I recorded in a story published in McGroarty's <HI REND="italics">West Coast Magazine</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"LUDOVICI'S PUNCH AND WHAT CAME OF IT"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"In 1875 or 1876, there drifted into Los Angeles a gifted Italian soldier of fortune, Signor F. W. Ludovici.  He was a Bohemian in the purest sense of the word, a linguist, an artist, a talented musician, a brilliant conversationalist, an epicure and an all-around astonishingly entertaining individual.  Possibly Balzac or Guy de <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"He made the acquaintance of the best families in the city, and was well received everywhere.  Few people living could play the violin as he could.  He was acquainted with all the celebrated musicians of the time.  He was familiar with the productions of all the great composers of all ages.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Ole Bull appeared once in Los Angeles at the old Turnverein Hall, then on Spring Street, where the Los Angeles Theater now stands.  He and Ludovici were great friends.  During the performance, `Ludo,' as we all called Ludovici, was behind the scenes.  Ole Bull was encored time and again.  At last he disappeared.  The audience, by cheers and hand-clapping, demanded another performance from him.  He came out, bowing and smiling, leading `Ludo' by the hand.  When they reached the center of the stage, Ole Bull advanced to the footlights and handed his violin to `Ludo' and urged him to play.  `Ludo,' by words and gesticulations, protested, but the audience took in the situation and called loudly for him.  Bull stepped back to one side, and with folded arms, he was a charmed listener to `Ludo's' performance.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"With rare skill, matchless pathos, most exquisite effect and without notes, Ludovici played the same air that Ole Bull did when he opened the performance.  Think of his nerve!  When he ceased playing, Bull ran to him, patted him on the back, wrung his hand, embraced him, showing by his actions his great pleasure and appreciation of `Ludo's' performance.  The audience was beside itself with enthusiasm.  With arms around each other, the two artists, smiling and bowing, left the stage.  Many finished musicians declared that `Ludo's' rendering of the air was fully as good as Ole Bull's.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"`Ludo' was interested with some Englishmen in the Santa Rosa Ranch, in San Diego County.  He was the resident manager of the enterprise.  As could be surmised, it did not prosper financially.  When complete failure overtook it, the chief asset of the property was an attractive bungalow, a huge stock of empty champagne bottles, and two grand pianos.  The mortgage on the ranch was held in England.  During the dry season of 1876-77, they killed and fed some five thousand sheep, which would have died of starvation, to a band of hogs.  Subsequently, they brought the hogs to Los Nietos, where J. M. Barretto, another English farmer, fed them sixteen hundred dollars' worth of corn, and then the hogs were sold to John Benner for eleven hundred dollars.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"An Englishman came over from the old country to look into the affairs of the syndicate.  He was interested financially in the venture.  Their affairs were badly mixed.  `Ludo' claimed that much money was due him fo rpast salary as manager.  The other parties claimed that `Ludo' was indebted to them in large sums of money advanced to him.  They finally agreed to arbitrate their difficulties.  Mr. J. de Barth Shorb was to be the arbitrator.  They came to me to formulate an agreement under which Shorb was to act.  It seems that all of the hogs had not been brought to Los Nietos.  There were still fifteen or twenty `razor-backs' on the ranch.  The Englishman's name was Smith.  `Ludo' affectionately called him `Smithy.'  In enumerating the remaining assets of the company, `Ludo' suddenly remembered the hogs still at large at Santa Rosa, and in an earnest and impulsive manner said, `Oh, Smithy, remember there are the hogs.'  Poor Smith knew the story of the hog speculation.  The very memory of it gave him financial spinal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"After a checkered career in Los Angeles, `Ludo' went to San Francisco, and for many years was musical director for the firm of Sherman &amp; Clay, piano dealers of that city.  On a trip to Los Angeles from the northern city, it is said of him that he sold to his friends, J. M. Griffith, J. S. Slauson and W. H. Perry, three wealthy residents here, each a few thousand dollars' worth of stock in some `get-rich-quick' scheme that he was promoting.  After the money was paid to him, and the stock delivered, he suggested to these gentlemen that as he was entirely execution-proof, to avoid any possible stockholders' liability on the part of the purchasers, it would be prudent for them to re-transfer the certificates of stock to him.  It is also related that they wisely complied with his request.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"As a quiet way of spending the Fourth of July, 1879, a picnic in Eaton Canyon, near Sierra Madre, was proposed for two or three families of young and old people, and `Ludo' and I were invited.  I volunteered to take a couple of companions with me and kill game enough for a game stew, for the making of which I had quite a reputation.  `Ludo' said he would gladly contribute a punch.  It was arranged that on the morning of the Fourth, my party would leave Los Angeles early and in time to kill and dress the game and get the stew ready.  On the night of the third, `Ludo' started in to make his punch.  He got a gallon jar with a screw-top, and in this he put a lot of sliced oranges, pineapple and bottled cherries.  He added sugar and then a little benedictine, rum, curacao, creme de cognac and Martini brandy.  This, he explained, was his punch stock.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"At four o'clock on the morning of the Fourth, Dr. J. S. Crawford, `Ludo,' Albert Judd and myself were ready to leave the St. Charles Hotel on Main Street.  We had a two-seated spring wagon, into which `Ludo' put his punch stock and punch bowl, carefully packed to avoid breakage, and sundry bottles of liquor, including champagne.  We carried with us an immense porcelain-lined kettle in which to make the stew.  We also took along potatoes, onions, chile peppers--red and green--salt and pepper, and Crawford, Judd and I carried our shotguns and ammunition.  I was driving.  Just as we started, some pigeons lit in the street.  Dr. Crawford remarked, `There is game.'  He banged away at them and killed four.  Old Billy Sands--long since gone to his reward--a policeman on the night watch, was seeing us off.  When Crawford shot the pigeons he said, `Tut, tut, tut, you must not shoot in the street.'  He helped to pick up the pigeons, put them in our wagon, and we were off.  In East Los Angeles, two adventuresome chickens obstructed the road.  They fell easy game to Crawford's gun, he remarking, `I know of nothing better for a stew than chicken.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"We went on through the Arroyo Seco and the country now embraced in Pasadena.  By the time we had reached the mouth of Eaton Canyon, we had more quail, doves and small rabbits than we had any use for.  We drove up the canyon to the picnic grounds, put up our horses, dressed the pigeons and chickens, and as much of the game as we needed.  We soon had the stew gently simmering over a slow fire.  The rest of the party subsequently joined us.  They brought dishes, knives, forks, etc., table-cloths and enough cooked provisions to have fed a small army.  While we got things ready the stew came on famously, and `Ludo' brewed the punch.  Do not ask me what was in it, for I do not know.  Everyone was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"After talking over the success of the entertainment, we started in to pack up our traps.  There was plenty of punch left.  Sadly `Ludo' poured it into the running stream.  When he came to the fruit, in an unguarded moment he nibbled at a bit of the pineapple in the bottom of the punch bowl.  `Oh, fellows,' he cried, `this is jolly good!  Try it.'  Like Eve in the Garden of Eden, we yielded to his invitation, and like her we fell.  We each ate a piece of the pineapple, then a few cherries, and then a slice of orange, until the punch stock was exhausted.  Finally, some one said, `Come, we must be going.'  `Ludo' picked up his punch bowl, but for some reason his steps were unsteady and his grasp infirm.  He dropped the bowl on the rocks, and it went to fragments.  My good friends, I am sorry to bring shame upon my gray hairs by confessing that that punch stock fruit did the business for all of us.  In about ten minutes we were all sorely afflicted with an entirely new brand of delirium tremens.  We had the team in front of the wagon.  I had gotten the neck yoke strapped up and the reins fastened.  Then I have a dim recollection of trying to fasten the traces to the double-tree.  I had a trace in one hand, but somehow I could never connect it with the single-tree.  It was never where I thought it was.  It seemed to wander around in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Crawford and `Ludo' were standing to one side, holding an admiration circle of their own.  They extolled the stew, the punch, the coffee, the company, and finally they embraced each other affectionately and wept for joy that they had been allowed to see this day and were permitted to attend the picnic.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Judd was one of the best wing shots in the State of California, but now he had a grouch.  He came around to my side of the wagon bewailing the fact that that morning he had missed one quail, an easy shot that he should have had no difficulty in making.  He said he was sure his gun was at fault.  He wanted to get it out of the wagon and break it on a rock.  I pacified him by agreeing with him that the gun was surely worthless and should be destroyed.  I told him, however, that I knew a fellow whom I would like to do an injury, and I would give that person the gun.  He was delighted with the suggestion.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"Our team stood perfectly still.  They were old livery horses, and I think they were used to similar situations.  They surely enjoyed our performance, and I just know that several times I saw them smiling at us.  I assured my companions that we were ready to start.  Great difficulty arose in getting into the wagon.  `Ludo' was short, stout, heavy and helpless.  By a deal of tugging and pulling, the rest of us got him up on the rear seat.  Then Judd and I helped Crawford up beside him.  I helped Judd to the front seat.  A contrary fit blew in on me, and I refused to get into the wagon, because there was no one to help me.  In one voice, with more unanimity than the famous `Alphonse' and `Gaston' ever displayed, they all offered to get out and help me in, and before I could realize it, the three of them were on the ground again.  We had to begin all over.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"This time we put Crawford in first.  He got hold of `Ludo's' collar and lifted on it; Judd and I boosted him from below, and we got him up once more.  Then I got into the front seat and helped Judd up by pulling vigorously on both of his arms.  To our consternation we found that the reins were on the ground, one on one side of the wagon and the other on the other side.  We sat there and laughed like idiots.  Everybody wanted to get the reins, and in about a minute, in our rivalry, we had all gotten out of the wagon again.  I picked up the reins and hung them over the dashboard. Crawford and `Ludo' were singing, `We won't go home until morning,' and Judd would join in with a line or two of `The Campbells are Coming,' and then go back to berating his gun.  I began to protest about wasting any more time.  They all jumped on me, saying it was all my fault--that I didn't even have sense enough to hitch up a team.  We argued that subject to a standstill, and began to reembark, each one of us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Driving that evening was peculiarly irksome to me.  I saw dozens of roads where there was really but one.  It appeared to me that there was a whole army of horses hitched onto our wagon.  A little cut across the road looked like a ravine, and a small declivity appeared to be a hill of precipitous dimensions.  We overtook a boy walking.  We hailed him, and he said he was going to Los Angeles.  I invited him to the front seat, and when he had gotten in, insisted on his driving.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The reader will pardon me if I tell him I do not remember what happened on the rest of our journey to Los Angeles.  Bear in mind that these events happened thirty-two years past, and a man of only ordinary intelligence cannot be expected to remember everything that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"I heard some one moving on the front porch.  I called, and Mr. Teed came in.  He was all kindness and solicitude about my health.  I inquired of him where I had been.  He told me I had been to a picnic the day before.  He did not know when I came home or how.  In answer to my inquiry as to what day it was, he said it was July 5th.  Then I remembered that I had a case set for trial before Judge Sepulveda.  I urged him to go to the Judge and get the case put over on account of my illness.  Mrs. Teed came in.  She insisted on bringing me a cup <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"By and by, Teed came back, wreathed in smiles.  Judge Sepulveda had put the case over before he had gotten to the court room, because the other attorney engaged in it had been celebrating the national holiday and was still intoxicated.  How I congratulated myself on my own respectability and extolled my own righteousness!  I argued to myself that an attorney at law, who would so far forget himself as to get intoxicated, ought to be disbarred.  I even promised myself that I would lodge a complaint against him just as soon as I was well enough.  The idea of this beast disgracing the profession!  How I regretted my illness!  I wanted immediate action on this man's disbarment.  Then I turned over and went to sleep.  I must have slept all day.  When I awoke it was dusk.  Mrs. Teed, good, gentle soul that she was, was sitting by my bedside sewing.  She was very kind to me.  She smoothed my pillow, bathed my head with bay rum (it smelled like punch), and told me I had been very restless, had tossed about and talked aloud in my sleep.  She brought me in a bowl of chicken broth and some tea and toast.  Never did she or her husband, by word or action, indicate that they had the slightest suspicion of what was the matter with me.  They always alluded to the incident as the time I was ill.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The next morning I got up, feeling pretty well.  I took my meals at the St. Charles Hotel, where Judd was clerk.  Dr. Crawford lived a few doors east of Teed's home on Buena Vista Street.  As I came down the steps to the street, Crawford came along, on his way to his office.  He remarked, `Graves, didn't we go somewhere on the Fourth?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`Yes,' I replied, `we went to a picnic in Eaton's Canyon.'</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"`When and how did we come back?' was his next inquiry.  I told him to search me, I would never tell him.  He mumbled something about believing that that Dago `Ludo' had poisoned him, and we parted company at Spring and Temple streets.  When I entered the office of the St. Charles Hotel, Mr. Craigue, one of the hotel proprietors, was behind the desk.  He glared at me and roared:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`What have you done with Judd?  I haven't seen him for two days.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I told him that I had been sick myself, but that I would look Judd up after I had breakfasted.  `Ludo' had a suite of rooms in the Downey Block, over Victor Doll's restaurant.  I went there and found `Ludo' sitting at an open window, gasping with the asthma.  When anything out of the ordinary happened to him, a severe attack of the asthma always resulted.  He greeted me cordially and between gasps cried out, `By Jove, Graves, wasn't that a dandy punch!'  Poor Judd was in an adjoining room, too sick to hold his head up.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"That evening I met Billy Sands, the policeman who saw us start off the morning of the Fourth.  He told me that at nine o'clock at night he found our team hitched to a post on upper Main Street.  We were all asleep.  I suppose the driver had deserted us at that point.  Sands took possession and drove to the rear entrance of the Downey Block.  He and another policeman took `Ludo' and Judd to `Ludo's' rooms.  Then they took Crawford to his house and me to my rooms at Teed's house.  Sands then returned the team to the livery stable.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"As I sat at my desk in my office, a little later that day, I registered a solemn vow never again to eat any of the fruit out of the bottom of a punch bowl.  This vow I have religiously kept.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"I have not recited these facts as any evidence of the total depravity of the times to which they relate, or of the four participants in the adventure.  `Ludo' and Judd have both long since passed away, and cannot defend themselves.  Dr. Crawford and myself can point with pride to our records in this community as men of sobriety.  Let this story teach as its moral the necessity of refraining from an indulgence in something pleasing to the palate, when the slightest reflection would disclose the fact that it should be studiously avoided."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Since the above was written, Dr. Crawford has passed to his reward.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>THIS COUNTY A HUNTER'S PARADISE.  DUCK SHOOT IN 1877.  GUN CLUBS.  A DAY AT WESTMINSTER GUN CLUB</P>
095.sgm:<P>FROM the time Southern California was settled until as late as 1890, the entire country was a paradise for the hunter of either large or small game.  In 1875, my first shooting was with the doves, then a little later, with the quail.  When winter came, duck, geese and snipe were all abundant.  There were good natural ponds of fresh water on the Rodeo de las Aguas, on the Cienega Rancho and the Ballona, and at what was known as "Nigger Slough," on the road to Wilmington.  In fact, there were ponds, in winter time, all over the county, from Santa Monica to San Pedro.  In that section, geese were also very thick.  After a day spent in that region, one would wake up in the night with the "honk, honk, honk" of the Oregon gray goose ringing in his ears.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I was coming from that region, after a successful shoot with Mr. S. H. Buchanan, an architect here, in the winter of 1878, when way head of us, honking loudly, and very high in the sky, came a lone Oregon gray goose.  My gun was in the case and Buchanan was driving.  I asked him to stop, hurriedly got out the gun and thrust a couple of cartridges in it.  Buchanan chided me, saying, "What are you trying to do?  That goose is a mile high."  I did not have much anticipation of killing him, but just as he got overhead I lead him well and fired.  Much to my astonishment he crumpled up and came down within twenty feet of us.  He was an enormous bird.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>When we got into Los Angeles, a little after dusk, we stopped at Mr. J. M. Griffith's home, on Fort Street, and I took the goose in to him.  I was invited to family dinner, a few days later, at which the goose was served.  Mrs. Griffith told me that, dressed, that is, picked and drawn, he weighed an even fifteen pounds.  That was the biggest wild goose I ever saw in all my shooting days.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I remember one memorable duck shoot in the late fall of 1877.  The party was composed, as far as I can now remember, of Dr. J. S. Crawford, Jacob Kuhrts, J. J. Mellus, H. M. Mitchell, Albert Judd, Fred C. Holbrook, George E. Gard, Jim Thompson, J. Frankenfeld and Jimmy Howard.  We had some small "A" tents, just large enough to house all of us, four in a tent.  We camped on the edge of a marsh, back of what is now Playa del Rey, on the Sausal de Redondo Rancho.  It was a bitter cold night.  The evening shoot was a wonderful one.  We had come back to camp a little after dusk with over 300 ducks.  We built a good fire, against a fallen tree trunk, which burned all night long.  By the light of the moon and several lanterns, we broiled the breasts of duck, boiled potatoes and made coffee, and just as we were about to eat our supper, Charlie Miles, who was a candidate for County Recorder, and Dave Waldren, who owned the Washington Gardens, at the corner of Main and Washington streets, drove up, in a light express wagon.  After tying their horses out where ours were tied, they joined us.  Supper over, we sat around the fire, recounting the evening shoot, extolling some high kills made by some members of the party, and spinning such yarns as hunters will on such occasions.  By the time we retired, ice was forming.  Our tents were well filled and we were glad of it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>About midnight, our hunting dogs were aroused by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>We were all thoroughly disgusted and went to camp.  While we were on the marsh, Miles and Waldren had gotten up and, taking every duck in camp, drove back to Los Angeles.  As we returned home, we found people out in their yards, picking ducks.  They would hail us with, "What kind of a shoot did you have?"  On our replying, "Good," they came back with, "Charlie Miles and Dave Waldren had a wonderful shoot.  They had a wagon-load of ducks and gave us these."</P>
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095.sgm:<P>Now, Miles and Waldren did not take those ducks for meanness.  They were good sportsmen.  They thought we would kill more than we needed, during the morning shoot, and Charlie Miles used our ducks for electioneering purposes.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In time, with the drainage of damp lands, and the breaking up of mesa lands for grain crops, which involved the disturbing of sage-brush and other bushy growths, duck, quail and dove shooting began to get somewhat poorer.  We had to go farther from the city to fill our bags.  The last stand of the quail was in the San Fernando Valley, but in time, farming there disturbed their habitat and natural feeds, and they disappeared.</P>
095.sgm:<P>At an early date duck clubs were formed.  One of the first was the Recreation, just back of Santa Monica.  Ponds are now maintained there with water pumped from drilled wells.  I shot at the Recreation many years.  Its present members still get a little shooting, and their lands are now worth a marvelous sum, but the days of duck shooting are numbered.</P>
095.sgm:<P>At the Recreation Gun Club, when it came to scraping the sky for high-flying ducks, John Hauerwaas held high gun.  He was a powerfully built, heavy-chested man, as large as two ordinary men.  When the rest of us would use four drams of powder to a charge, he would use six, and did not seem to mind the recoil.  He certainly could reach the ducks at a long distance from the earth.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Del Rey Club adjoined the Recreation.  There were several other clubs in that region.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Bolsa Chica, a very aristocratic duck club, which bought a large body of land in the Bolsa Chica Rancho, near the present town of Huntington Beach, always had most excellent shooting until quite recently.  The Westminster Club was near there.  I was one of the organizers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>We had great times at the Westminster.  Frequently, Waller Chanslor, of Chanslor-Lyons Company, Duffy Schwarz, Karl Klokke, and sometimes Walter Leeds and myself, would go down to the club in someone's car.  One day Mr. Chanslor was driving his car and with him were Schwarz, Klokke and myself.  When near Artesia there was a citron, shaped like a watermelon, lying in the road.  It is a Chinese importation and is sometimes called "pie melon."  It is so tough that you can throw one twenty feet in the air and let it fall on a cement sidewalk, and it will not burst.  Chanslor said: "See me smash the watermelon."  I was on the front seat with him.  He hit the citron in the center, and things began to happen.  He was running fully forty miles an hour.  The citron was not injured.  The car reared up, nearly turned over, then skidded from one side of the road to the other, and finally brought up, head on, before a two-foot pepper tree.  We stopped not six inches from it.  We might all have been seriously injured, if not killed.  After that, Chanslor passed up all "watermelons" lying in the road.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Chinese citron is well liked by stock, but has to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Illustrating what usually occurred on these duck shoots, I wrote for the January number of McGroarty's <HI REND="italics">West Coast Magazine</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"`Is that you, J. A.?'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`Yes,' I answered.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`Are you going to your club, tonight?'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`Yes, on the five o'clock car.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`Don't you want to go with me in my machine?'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`Surely I do.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`All right, I will call for you at three-thirty.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The voice which the telephone brought to me was that of Waller Chanslor.  Time, Friday, November 11, 1910.  Exchanging a ride on an electric car, to be followed by a two-mile drive in a wagon behind a slow team, in the dark, for a rapid auto drive, was a great joy for me.  We shoot on the Saturday's squad at the `Westminster Gun Club' in Orange County.  Those of us who shoot on that day assemble at the club house on Friday night.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I attended to my affairs at the Bank, not keeping track of the time.  Chancing to look out of the window I saw Walter Leeds and Karl Klokke, leaning against the granite window-sill on the outside.  Noting the time, I found it was three-thirty.  I closed my desk, got my hat and coat and joined them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Very soon Chanslor drove up in his car.  We waited fifteen minutes for Duffy Schwarz, and on his arrival we were off.</P>
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095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"We went out Central Avenue, turned to the left, through Huntington Park, past Bell's Station to Downey, and on towards Norwalk.  A little beyond Downey, a flat tire held us up until a new inner tube was inserted.  We again sped on, leaving Norwalk to the left, passed through Artesia, and on to the Alamitos beet sugar factory.  It was rapidly getting dark.  Notwithstanding that fact, the road was full of teams, loaded with beets, going to the factory, or empty, or loaded with beet pulp, coming from it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The beet pulp is used for cattle feed.  It smells to heaven--and a little further.  I never learned where Limburger cheese gets its awful odor.  After some experience with beet pulp, my guess is that after the cheese is made it is buried in that odoriferous product to cure.  At any rate, if Limburger smells any worse than the beet pulp, I will acknowledge that I am not an expert on `odors.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"From here we sped along for about ten miles, and finally arrived at the club.  A bountiful supper, well cooked and palatable, satisfied our appetites, sharpened as they were by the drive in the open air.  Then we read and chatted and loafed away the evening, some of the younger members even indulging in a game of `old maid' and `solitaire' until bedtime.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"We were to be called at five o'clock.  I went to sleep at once upon retiring, and it seemed but a few moments until the keeper rapped on my door.  Up I jumped.  We were soon in our hunting togs and at the breakfast table.  The night before we had selected our blinds.  No. 7 fell to me.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Breakfast over, each man took his gun and shells and `hiked' out in darkness to his blind.  Reaching mine, I put out my decoys, arranged my shells for handy use, got into my blind, and awaited the call of `time.'  This is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"We all waited, just a shot here and there breaking the stillness.  Two more teal hurtled by.  Rising quickly, I dropped one good and dead and crippled the other.  He fell in No. 6, but I never got him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"It was a beautiful morning.  Just the faintest sort of an east wind sprang up, raising little ripples on the placid waters of our ponds.  The heavens were enveloped in dark gray masses of somber clouds.  Catalina and the mountains north of Los Angeles were entirely shut out of view.  Signal Hill, north of Long Beach, and the Palos Verdes hills, could be dimly seen.  The air was as soft as the velvet cheek of a new-born babe, and as balmy as the breath of a midsummer morning.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Someone called, `Look at the sunrise!'  The sun had really risen some time before, but was shut out by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"We sat and waited.  Not fifty shots had yet been fired on our grounds.  How the memories of the past surged through my brain!  All the joys of my life, and there have been many, were quickly reviewed.  All my sorrows, and there have been enough, quickly followed.  All my successes and my triumphs, my defeats and my failures, passed in quick review.  The cobwebs of the brain were brushed aside, and the history of the past stood out clearly, bringing memories of pleasures past, of pain and sorrow, grief and woe.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The whirr of swiftly-beaten wings brought me back to the living reality of the present moment, and I missed a pair of sprig, which hurried on with frightened speed, to be bombarded by other guns along the way, until they disappeared towards the ocean.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The ducks were coming a little better now.  Over in No. 8 I saw Chanslor pick a black speck from the very clouds.  Klokke and Schwarz, Leeds, Gates and his brother, were burning powder with varying success.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Far off toward the south I saw the glad figures of eight big sprig, headed my way.  They were far beyond gunshot, with necks outstretched, looking for a landing place.  Would they ever get to me?  The question was answered by a shot from some idiot in the road south of us, who could only hope to scare them.  How they scurried up into the clouds, wildly scattered for a few moments, then gathering into a black bunch, they wheeled around and were off in the direction whence they came.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Now I got a widgeon, then a teal, then another teal, and finally a sprig.  A few drops of rain fell, and I thought we were surely in for a soaking.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"In a long lull in the shooting I went out and gathered up my kill.  Nine I found.  Sixteen more to make the limit.  Would I get them?  Coming from the north, high up in the air, I saw a band of sprig.  They were so high, no one shot at them.  Just as they came over me, I selected a leader, held well ahead of him and pulled the trigger.  To my astonishment I saw him waver.  I swung to another, and crack went the gun.  He, too, followed, and both of the crippled birds came whirling to the water.  They were only crippled and I took no chance of losing them.  Away I went, through the mud and water, and soon I had wrung the neck of each of them.  They were magnificent birds, and raised my count to eleven.  I had, in getting them, stepped into a hole, going over my boottop, and my right boot was full of water.  Getting back to my blind, I lay down on my back, stuck my foot in the air and got rid of most of the water.  Fortunately, it was a warm morning, and I suffered no inconvenience.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Turning my head, I saw a very large sprig coming toward me, close to the water.  He was already too close.  I banged away at him and missed him.  Up he mounted, and trying him again, saw him gasp, but he mounted higher and higher, and finally sped out of sight.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Here I am, fifty-eight years old, following the game as I learned it in my younger days.  I cannot see a letter in a page of coarse print without my glasses, but I could see a duck, even in that darkened atmosphere, miles away, and name the family to which it belonged.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The day wore on, now a hit, now a miss.  Now long waits, then some sharp, rapid shooting.  A fine mist was falling, just enough to make things soggy.  I made another round-up and my count was twenty-three.  I saw the keeper pick up one of mine.  I wanted one more.  I got another teal, and shouldering my gun started for the house with six sprig, about as many widgeon and the balance teal.  Those ducks were heavy enough before I got in.  To my surprise it was twelve o'clock.  Chanslor joined me at the gate.  He also had the limit.  We took our cold shower and had a modest drink of good old Bourbon.  By the time we were dressed, Leeds, Schwarz and Klokke came in, each with the limit.  Gates and his brother were still shooting.  Then came a good hot lunch, after which we made the return drive to the city.  There had been just enough rain to settle the dust.  We came back tired but refreshed.  Let those who wonder why we do it try it once, then they will understand the fascination and the joy of it."</P>
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095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>HUNTING INCIDENTS</P>
095.sgm:<P>OF COURSE, at all the Clubs, phenomenal shots were made, from time to time, many of which were largely accidental.  On one occasion, at the Westminster, I saw Walter Leeds kill a duck well up in the air immediately over him.  As it fell, standing in his blind, he caught it in his left hand.  In all my hunting experience I never saw that trick repeated.</P>
095.sgm:<P>By the fall of 1911 I must have begun to feel the disadvantage of advancing years.  In an article, describing the last quail shoot of the year 1911, which was first printed in the Los Angeles Times and afterwards in a little volume that I had printed, entitled, "Out of Doors, California and Oregon," I wrote as follows:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Were I musically inclined, I could very appropriately sing, `Darling, I am Growing Old.'  The realization of this fact, as unwelcome as it is, is from time to time forced upon me.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"On Friday, November 10th, 1911, I went to the Westminster Gun Club, in an open machine, through wind and storm.  Got up the next morning at 5 o'clock, had a duck shoot, drove back thirty miles to Los Angeles, arriving there at 11:30 a.m.  At 1 o'clock I drove to my home, and at 2 o'clock was off for Perris Valley on a quail shoot.  Had a good outing, with much hard labor.  The next day I got home at half-past five, completely done up.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"As I went to retire, I had a good, stiff, nervous chill.  So you can well see that I can no longer stand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>When, however, after sixteen years, I again read the above, the wonder is that I did not have something worse than a chill.  The gait detailed for the two days was too strenuous for any mortal to stand up under.  On the return trip from Perris Valley, where the last quail shoot was held, I indulged, in this article, in the following description of the San Gabriel Valley and the sunset which we enjoyed:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I never saw the San Gabriel Valley more beautiful than it was that afternoon.  As we bowled along the road this side of San Dimas, the entire valley lay before us.  To the west were the rugged Sierra Madre Mountains; on the east, the San Jose hills.  They connected with the Puente hills to the south.  West of these came the hills of the Rancho La Merced, running from the San Gabriel River westerly, and still west of them came the hills which run east from the Arroyo Seco, north of the Bairdstown country.  From our position these hills all seemed to connect without any breaks or passes in them.  Thus the valley before us was one mountain-and-hill-bound amphitheater.  The sky was overcast by grayish clouds.  The sun hung low in the west, directly in front of us.  How gorgeous was the coloring of the sky and valley!  How the orchards and vineyards were illuminated!  How <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Oh, land so rare, where such visions of delight are provided by the unseen powers for our delectation!  As I surveyed this vast acreage, evidencing the highest cultivation, with princely homes, vast systems of irrigation, with orange orchards and lemon groves in every stage of development, from the plants in the seed beds to trees of maturity and full production, I congratulated myself on living in such an age, and amid such environments.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Let us appreciate, enjoy and defend until our dying day, this glorious land, unswept by blizzards, untouched by winter's cruel frosts, unscathed by the torrid breath of sultry summer, a land of perpetual sunshine, where roses, carnations, heliotrope, and a thousand rare, choice and delicate flowers bloom in the open air continually, where in the spring time the senses are oppressed by the odor of orange and lemon blossoms, and where the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>What happened the following winter should teach one never to boast of climatic conditions.  In the article above quoted I indulged in a rhapsody as to our freedom from frosts.  During the winter of 1912-13 we had the severest frost I ever experienced in Southern California.  The damage done to citrus groves was enormous.  Personally, I lost a forty-thousand-dollar crop, and many others were in the same predicament.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>LARGE GAME.  HUNTING EXPERIENCES</P>
095.sgm:<P>REFERRING to large game, bear were quite abundant in some of the mountain regions adjoining Los Angeles.  Deer abounded in all our mountains.  Griffith Park was full of them, so was the present Flintridge country, the San Gabriel and San Antonio Canyons.  Antelope abounded in great numbers in what is called Antelope Valley, in the Mojave region.  They were also found in the Moreno Valley in Riverside County.  There were deer in the brush and cactus on the San Fernando Ranch.  The does found there were barren, from some cause or another.  So were the bucks, the latter having been castrated by wood-ticks, while they were quite small.  These barren does and bucks, having lost their ambition, retired from the mountains to the valleys.  Living on sandy ground, their feet became very long, so that they traveled with difficulty.  They were exceedingly fat, delicious in flavor.  When any of us killed a "cactus" deer, as we called them, we were envied by all our hunting friends.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Dr. J. S. Crawford and I killed a large barren buck, on the San Fernando, with shotguns.  He got up so close to us that we slaughtered him, both shooting at his head at the same time.  Our guns were loaded for quail.  Former Sheriff H. M. Mitchell and I killed a barren doe in almost the same manner, on the same rancho.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Illustrating the number of deer in this county at the time, in the fall of 1878, Dr. J. S. Crawford and myself went, quite early one morning, to the present <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>We had some wonderful shots among the old-time hunters.  No better dove, duck or snipe shot ever hunted in this section than Jim Thompson and L. D. Gavitt.  Albert Judd, a clerk at the St. Charles Hotel, was nearly as good.  Then came Jim Mellus, Fred C. Holbrook, Geo. E. Gard, Dr. J. S. Crawford and H. M. Mitchell.  Mr. Daniel Freeman was also an excellent shot.  Many of these men were expert rifle shots.  Of the forty or fifty men I used to hunt with, there are but two alive, viz.: Fred C. Holbrook and J. J. Mellus.  Among the younger generation that we hunted with, H. W. Keller, Waller Chanslor, Duffy Schwarz and Karl Klokke, were hard to beat.  Yet I had a chauffeur, Harry Graves (who, while bearing the same family name, was no relation of mine, and who was with me from 1907 until 1911).  I think he was the best all-around shot, at any sort of game, with rifle or shotgun, that I ever met.  He had the hunting instinct to know where to find game, and the happy faculty of centering his birds, killing them dead and not leaving them crippled.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1909, General M. H. Sherman, Mr. Edward Strasburg, my son Francis, then a boy of thirteen or fourteen, and myself, left Witter Hotel, in Lake County, in my machine, on the morning that the deer season opened.  Harry was driving, and we were going to Willits.  We were going along a road, on a mountainside, when Francis <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Harry was as good a fisherman as he was a shot.  Whenever we went out, we always got game.  A crowd of us had a quail preserve of 2,000 acres fenced and posted, some nine miles south of Perris, in Riverside County.  We had good shooting there until the March flying field was built there, during the war.  They actually scared all the quail out of that section.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I sometimes think that it is a wonder that I am alive, considering some of the fool things I have done for the sake of shooting.  After I lost my left limb, and before I had an artificial limb, I went out to our grounds several times, quail shooting.  We used to stop at Billy Newport's (a bluff, hale, good-natured Englishman).  He was a good sport and a good shot.  He would drive me around in a wagon, and he would get in the most impossible places.  One day we were away up on a hillside, amid rocks, boulders and brush.  The ground was so steep that the wagon absolutely careened.  Chanslor, Schwarz and Klokke were in good shooting, near the foot of this small mountain.  All at once, and immense flock of quail flew up in front of them, clear to the top of the mountain.  Newport handed me the reins, and jumped out, and said he would run around and head them off.  He went around the side of the mountain, until he got <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I said above that Harry Graves had the hunting instinct.  He had more than that.  He had a knowledge of all kinds of game.  In 1903, Judge Sterry asked me to go to the Klamath Indian Reservation with him.  The party was composed of Judge Sterry, Frank W. King, my son Selwyn and myself, besides Judge Sterry's son Norman.  I suggested to Judge Sterry that we also take Harry Graves along, so as to be sure of game, which we did, and he also took a German boy, from his office.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We had an excellent camp on Spring Creek, the finest body of water I ever saw, in the heart of the Indian Reservation.  We killed one small buck, then it set in and rained for three days, so that we could not get out, and we were out of fresh meat.  The rain ceased during the night, and in the morning, while everything was sopping wet, Harry and I started out to see what we could dig up.  There were quite a lot of ruffled grouse there, or "fool hens," as they are called.  We had each killed one, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>A little while afterwards, on a small stream, we killed four or five young mallards.  I have a kodak photograph of these ducks hanging on a tree, and am astonished that, after all these years, the blue in the wing of one of them still stands out vividly.  How the kodak ever reproduced the color, I do not know.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We made that trip in Judge Sterry's private car.  He had two setter dogs with him.  As everyone who knew Judge Sterry knows, he was quite a stout man.  There was a big roll of tent material standing on the rear platform of the car.  We stopped at Dunsmuir, waiting for a train to pass.  Judge Sterry was sitting out on the platform, with the two dogs, wagging their tails and looking over the rail.  Two urchins, wandering by, called up to him, "Mister, are you going to show in this town?"  Seeing the fat man, the dogs and the tents, they thought we surely were some kind of a circus.  Judge Sterry long appreciated the joke.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When we came back, we were to switch onto the Santa Fe lines at Sacramento, and had to wait there an hour or two.  I am always interested in the products of the country, so I found out where their markets were and walked over there.  While looking around, I saw a big, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>From what is written above, and from other statements in this recital, as to drinks taken, the readers hereof must not suppose that I have ever been an habitual drinker or "boozer."  The Ludovici punch incident must not be taken against me.  Using the argument of a special pleader, I can truthfully say that what affected me that day I did not drink, but ate.  The liquor-soaked fruit in the bottom of the punch bowl was more powerful than three times the same amount of liquor had it been taken in liquid form.  When I was a child, my father would frequently make a toddy, and I would have a sip of it.  Since I have been grown, I have occasionally taken a drink, but have never used liquor to excess, and I know that I have not been injured physically, mentally or morally, by any liquor that I have ever consumed, the Prohibitionists to the contrary, notwithstanding.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>ANTELOPE HUNT IN 1876.  HUNTING TRIP IN NEVADA</P>
095.sgm:<P>I NEVER hunted antelope in Los Angeles County but twice.  Once was in the fall of 1876, with my good old friend and true sportsman, A. C. Chauvin, well known to every one here in that era.  We went by team to Rock Creek, on the north side of the western end of Antelope Valley.  Although we suffered severely from one of the worst windstorms which I ever experienced, we succeeded in killing two fine buck antelope.  To get out of the wind, we then went across the valley to the Rancho La Liebre, where, within a few days, we killed two fine buck deer, and shortly afterwards returned to Los Angeles.</P>
095.sgm:<P>My second hunt was a year later.  Quite a party of us, among whom were Dr. J. S. Crawford, Jacob Kuhrts, Jim Thompson, L. D. Gavitt, Jimmie Howard of the Mission, J. J. Mellus, H. M. Mitchell, William Banning, under-sheriff under Don David Alexander, myself, and a couple of roustabouts, left Los Angeles with one four-horse spring wagon and two light two-horse wagons, and drove to Willow Springs, west of Mojave.  We pulled into camp at dusk.  Some one had killed, en route, enough quail for the evening meal.  We had saddles for all of the party.  Those who had been there before laid out a plan of campaign.  They claimed that the antelope would come from the west, in a well-beaten path, and water in a bunch of springs about a mile west of us.  These springs rose in a canyon of considerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The antelope has one peculiarity.  When he starts to go anywhere, he makes a bee-line for the place of destination, and will not turn aside for anything; and after watering at a usual watering place, he will always return by the route by which he came to water.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The next morning there was quite a breeze blowing from the northwest, which was in our favor.  We mounted our horses and took up positions from where we expected to work.  One man went on foot to the top of a small hillock and hid in the sage-brush.  By prearranged signal, he notified us that the antelope were coming.  Naturally, we kept out of sight and the wind was with us, that is, entirely in our favor.  When the antelope had reached the springs, our lookout motioned us to close in at the mouth of the canyon through which the antelope had approached.  They were like a band of sheep and must have numbered 500.  We stationed our men across the canyon and another party on horseback went over the hill to where the antelope were.  They immediately struck the trail by which they had entered the canyon.  As they debouched therefrom we, riding like mad and shooting from our horses, attacked them savagely. When the band had disappeared, we began to pick up the dead and wounded.  My recollection is that the party killed 17, but, Mr. J. J. Mellus, the only man of the party alive, except myself, now says that we killed 27, and I defer to his better recollection.  We killed only bucks, and it was some job, riding and shooting, to pick out the males, although they had prominent antlers.  I remember that when we thought we had gathered all of the dead, Mellus came up and pointing to a little willow tree some distance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>We brought out a wagon, took them to camp, hung them up on willow trees, drew them, and salted and peppered the exposed flesh to keep the flies away.  We easily killed quail enough for the entire party, for supper that night, and had a great feast of quail and antelope.  Why some of us were not killed while we were shooting that morning, I never could understand.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Next morning we loaded out traps and the antelope into the four-horse wagon, and all of us, except Mellus and William Banning, set out for Los Angeles.  They remained, with one of the light teams, and after we left they killed three deer in some low brushy hills, a mile from where we camped.  All of our friends in Los Angeles feasted on deer and antelope for several days.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The only other antelope I ever saw in the open, except, frequently, from the Southern Pacific trains, bands in Antelope Valley, was on the Sparks and Harrell cattle ranch, in Nevada and Idaho, during a visit there as the guest of Mr. John Sparks and Mr. Andrew Harrell.  The party killed three antelope on that trip, besides a half-dozen mule deer.</P>
095.sgm:<P>It is astonishing what vitality the members of the deer family have.  On the Nevada-Idaho trip, several of us were out in a very hilly country.  Every ravine was filled with quaking ash groves, with an undergrowth of wild pea-vines and blackberry bushes.  The mule deer laid up during the day in these bushy ravines.  One man would ride up such a ravine, beating the brush and yelling like an Indian.  The deer would move along ahead of him and finally make a dash for some safer place.  As he came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>When we started out, Sparks told us that we would never believe how much a big mule deer weighed, and he had put into our chuck wagon a pair of old-fashioned steelyards.  He would not let us draw this deer until we got him to camp, and he weighed 375 pounds. That was the largest deer I ever saw.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On another occasion I shot a deer through the right <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>PROFESSOR "LO"</P>
095.sgm:<P>WHILE on the Oregon Trip I met a remarkable Indian.  I wrote an account of it which was published in the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"My interview with an Educated Indian in the Wilds of Oregon:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"In the summer of 1902, I was camping, in company with the late Judge Sterry of Los Angeles, on Spring Creek in the Klamath Indian Reservation in Southeast Oregon.  Spring Creek rises out of lava rocks and flows in a southeasterly direction, carrying over 200,000 inches of the clearest, coldest water I ever saw.  In fact, its waters are so clear that the best anglers can only catch trout, with which the stream abounds, in riffles, that is, where the stream runs over rocks of such size as to keep the surface in constant commotion, thus obscuring the vision of the fish.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Two miles, or thereabouts, from its source, Spring Creek empties into the Williamson River.  The Williamson rises miles away in a tule swamp, and its waters are as black as black coffee.  Where the two streams come together, the dark waters of the Williamson stay on the left-hand side of the stream, going down, and the clear waters of Spring Creek on the right-hand side, for half a mile or more.  Here some rapids, formed by a swift declivity of the stream, over sunken boulders, cause a mix-up of the light and dark waters, and from there on they flow intermingled and indistinguishable.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"Nine miles down stream, the Sprague River comes in from the left.  It is as large as the Williamson, and its waters are the color of milk, or nearly so.  The stream flows for miles over chalk beds and through chalk cliffs, which give its waters their weird coloring.  The union of the waters of the Williamson and the Sprague Rivers results in the dirty, gray coloring of the water of Klamath Lake, into which they empty, and of the Klamath River, which discharges the lake into the Pacific Ocean.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The place where the Williamson is joined by the Sprague is known as the `Killican.'  The stream here flows over a lava bottom and is quite wide, in places very deep and in places quite shallow.  There seemed to be quite an area of this shallow water.  The shallow places suddenly dropped off into pools of great depth, and it was something of a stunt to wander around on the shallow bedrock and cast off into the pools below.  I tried it and found the lava as smooth and slippery as polished glass.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"After sitting down a couple of times in water two feet deep, I concluded to stay on shore and cast out into the pool.  Following this exhilarating exercise with indifferent success, I noticed approaching a little, old Indian.  He was bareheaded and barefooted.  His shirt was open, exposing his throat and breast.  His eyes were deep set, his hair and beard a grizzled gray.  He had a willow fishing pole in one hand and a short bush with green leaves on it, with which he was whacking grasshoppers, in the other.  He circled around on the bank near me, now and again catching a hopper.  I noticed that he ate about two out of every five that he caught.  The others he kept for bait.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Finally he approached the stream.  He paid no attention whatever to me.  He selected a spot almost under me, squatted down upon a flat rock, put two grasshoppers on his hook, threw it into the stream, and in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Embarrassed beyond measure, I apologized for attempting to talk to him in his own language, and accepted the trout.  He baited his hook, cast it into the stream, and in a short time landed a still larger trout.  Without removing it from the hook, he came up the bank to where I was seated.  He laid his fish and rod on the grass, wiped his forehead with his hand and sat down.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`I never catch more fish, or kill more game than I need for my present wants,' he remarked.  `That trout will be ample for my wife and myself for supper and breakfast, and, in fact, for all day tomorrow.  When he is gone, I will catch another one.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Then, turning to me, he asked, `From what section of civilization do you hail?'  I told him I was from Los Angeles.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`Ah, Los Angeles,' he murmured.  `The Queen City of the West and the Angel City of the South.  I have read much about your beautiful city, and I have often thought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"I told him I was an attorney at law.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`A noble profession,' he remarked.  `Next to medicine I regard it as the noblest profession known to our limited capabilities.  Do you ever think,' he asked me, `that the medical profession is devoted to relieving physical ills?  To warding off death?  The law, on the other hand, takes care of your property rights.  It is supposed to be the guardian of the weak.  How often, however, do we see its mission perverted, and how often it becomes an oppressor of the unfortunate.  How many times do we see it aiding in the accumulation of those large fortunes with which our modern civilization is fast becoming burdened and brutalized.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"While I had never contracted the filthy habit of smoking, I had in my pocket several good cigars.  I extended the case to my new-found friend.  He took one, thanked me, bit off the end, lit it and puffed away with evident enjoyment.  I took the liberty of asking him his business.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`I am a professor of belles-lettres and philosophy in the Indian College on the Klamath reservation.  I am here on my vacation.  I was born and reared to early manhood in these mountains.  They still have a charm for me.  While I love my books and my labors, there is a freedom in my life here which appeals to me.  Here I go back to natural life, and study again the book of nature.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"He hesitated, and I took advantage of his silence and asked him about the religion of his race.  Whether the modern red man adhered to the teachings of his tribe, or leaned toward the white man's God.  Replying, he delivered to me a discourse of considerable length, which, as near as I can recollect it now, ran as follows:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`My people have been too busy these many years filling their stomachs to pay much attention to saving their souls.  We teach a religion that inculcates good behavior, and promises as a reward for a well-spent life an eternity of bliss in the happy hunting ground.  Our future is depicted by our priests as a materialistic future, where we follow the chase, defeat our enemies and enjoy to our full those things which render us happy in this world.  Personally, I have long since discarded the teachings of my people, and I am in a state of doubt which seriously perplexes me.  I have read much and widely on this subject.  I find that you white men have not one religion, but many.  You are divided into sects, torn by factions.  From the teachings of history I would think that the multitude of denominations you support was your greatest safeguard.  You know from times past, when a religion becomes too powerful, it becomes also intolerant and persecutions follow.  I am loath to accept the Christian theory of the origin of man or his probable destiny.  Science teaches us that the human being has existed for millions of years longer than the churches admit we have existed.  The idolatry practiced by the Catholic Church repulses me, and a vasts stability has strongly appealed to me.  You will remember what Macaulay, in reviewing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:Ranke's History of the Popes, said of this church.  After reviewing its history, its defeats and its triumphs, he added: "And she may still exist in undiminished vigor when some traveler from New Zealand shall in the midst of a vast solitude take his stand on a broken arch of London Bridge to sketch the ruins of St. Paul."  And yet, neither the age of the church nor its stability is conclusive to my mind of its divine origin.  I am rather convinced from these facts that it has been governed by a skilful set of men, who were able politicians and financiers, as well as religious enthusiasts.  Certainly no Protestant church can lay claim to divine origin.  We know too well that the Episcopal Church was founded by an English King, because the Pope of Rome refused him a divorce.  Luther quarreled with his church, and broke away from its restraints.  Wesley founded the Methodist Church, Calvin the Presbyterian Church.  The more I study the religious history of the world, the more I am convinced that religion is founded on fear.  The immortal bard, from whom nothing seems to have been hidden, lays down the foundation of all religion in these words from "Hamlet," where he makes the melancholy Dane exclaim:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"To die--to sleep--<LB>To sleep! perchance to dream--ay, there's the rub;<LB>For in that sleep of death what dreams may come,<LB>When we have shuffled off this mortal coil,<LB>Must give us pause."<LB></HI>
095.sgm:<P>"`Do you realize that Ingersoll, by his teachings and denunciations of what he termed the "absurdities of orthodox religious beliefs," has done more toward shaking faith in many church doctrines than any man of this age?  And, after all, is not his doctrine a sane one?  He says, in effect: "I cannot believe these things.  My reason <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"`The old poet, Omar, argues against a future life.  You will recall these lines:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Strange, is it not, that out of the myriads who<LB>Before us pass'd the door of Darkness through,<LB>Not one returns to tell us of the Road,<LB>Which to discover we must travel, too."<LB></HI>
095.sgm:<P>"`The churches tell us we must have faith to be saved, but the great minds of the present age are not satisfied, any more than many of the great minds of the past were satisfied, to admit as a matter of faith the whole foundation of the Christian religion.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`People want to be shown.  They are not willing to rely upon poorly authenticated stories of what occurred several thousand years ago.  The question presents itself to us: Is the world better, for its present beliefs, than it formerly was, when religion was a matter of statute?  People may not be as religious as they once were, but they are certainly more humane.  Women are no longer slaves, chattels, with unfeeling husbands.  Slavery itself no longer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"`But pardon me,' he added with infinite grace and a charming wave of his hand, `you see your question has aroused in me the failing of the pedagogue.  I have said more than I had intended.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`How do your people,' I asked, `look upon the material progress of the age?'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`They are astounded,' he answered.  `Since the Modoc War, many of my people have prospered.  You have seen their farms, their houses, and noted their occupations.  They are rich in lands and stock and even in money.  They have many comforts and even many luxuries in their homes.  Some of them have traveled extensively, and they come back filled with awe and admiration with what the white man has done, and is doing.  I read the modern press, and many scientific works, and I am satisfied that man will fly in a few years more.  Already the automobile is displacing the domestic animals.  The telephone was a great triumph of science, next in importance to steam locomotion.  But, are your people as happy with your modern methods, your crowded cities, your strenuous existence, as your forefathers were, who led the simple life?  And where is this mad scramble, not for wealth alone, not for power but for mere existence, nothing more, that the human race is engaged in, going to end?  Can you tell me?  Take America, one of the newest civilized lands of the earth, how long will it be before her coal measures are exhausted?  Her iron ores exhausted?  Her forests will soon be a thing of the past.  Already you hear complaints that her fertile lands are not yielding as they once did, and your population is constantly increasing.  With coal gone, with iron gone, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"I assured him I could not answer these questions.  That I had asked myself the same things a thousand times, and no answer came to me.  I handed the professor another cigar.  He lit it.  Just then an old Indian woman clad in a calico wrapper, but bareheaded and barefooted, came down the road towards us.  She stopped some fifty feet away, and in a shy, low voice, but in good English, she called him.  `Papa, did you catch me a fish for dinner?'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The professor turned his head, and seeing her, said to me, `Ah, here is my guardian angel, my wife,' and then to her, holding up his trout, he said, `Yes, I have it.  I am coming now.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"He arose, held out a dirty hand for me to shake, and in parting, said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`My dear sir, you cannot imagine how much I have enjoyed our chance meeting, resulting from your poor pronunciation of two Indian words.  When you return to your civilized surroundings, ask yourself, "Are any of this mad throng as happy as the Indian I met at the Killican?"'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"He rejoined his wife, and the aged pair passed into a brush hut beneath some stately pines.  I, too, turned toward the wagon which was to carry me back to camp, meditating long and deeply on the remarks of this strolling compound of savagery and education.  Environment is largely responsible for man's condition.  Here was a man who had acquired considerable knowledge of the world and books, yet he was still a savage in his manner of life and in his habits.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"His manner of talking was forceful and natural, and his command of language remarkable.  The ease and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>The foregoing was published one Sunday morning in the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"To the Editorial Staff of the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>A couple of years after the article was published, I met a man from Klamath Falls who told me that "Professor Lo" was well-known and addicted to excessive exaggeration.  That he never taught in the Klamath school.  That he had received considerable education and was quite well-read, and that if I had had a bottle of whiskey with me and tendered it to him, he would have been much more loquacious than he was at the time of my interview.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>NATIVE CALIFORNIA SADDLE AND BRIDLE HORSES.  JACQUES FORGUES</P>
095.sgm:<P>NO COUNTRY in the world ever produced saddle or driving horses with more endurance than the native California animals.  When interbred with American running and trotting strains they, if anything, improved.  There must be something in the climate that contributed to their excellence.  They used to tell of a vaquero, in the olden days, who rode his mount from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara in one day.  Nick Covarrubias, the son of Jose Maria Covarrubias, grantee of Catalina Island, himself a superb horseman, assured me that this feat was performed not once, but many times.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Col. R. S. Baker and Cy Lyons, his foreman, assured me that they had driven "Old Peggy," a celebrated white mare owned by Col. Baker, from Fort Tejon to Los Angeles, a distance, by the route traveled, of 112 miles, more than once, inside of 12 hours.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Climate and the food of horses grown in this region must have given them great staying powers.  When the Americans began to import from the East highly bred sires and dams, their offspring, raised here, possessed wonderful endurance.  For example, Lucky Baldwin, with horses bred at Santa Anita, won wonderful victories on the leading running tracks of the United States.  Mr. L. J. Rose, with such horses as "Stamboul," "Sultan," and "Sweetheart," made a national reputation and lowered trotting track records wherever his animals appeared.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>As an example of the endurance of the ordinary buggy horse--in 1880, Mr. William R. Rowland was sheriff of Los Angeles County.  He had a big red roan buggy horse with white splotches on his back and rump.  He was long and rangy but powerfully muscled.  He was a son of "The Moor," who was the sire of all the leading animals on the Rose stock ranch.  One summer morning we left Los Angeles quite early, to drive to Anaheim where he had a summons to serve.  He found the party named in the summons and gave him a copy of it.  We then went on to Westminster, where we had a sale set for ten o'clock, of a stock of merchandise in a store, under the state insolvency law.  Mr. Rowland was assignee in the case.  We reached Westminster ahead of time, had our sale at ten o'clock, and Mr. Abe Haas appeared and bid in the property.  We then drove on to Santa Ana where, at twelve o'clock, we had a sheriff's sale of another stock of merchandise, and again Mr. Haas was there and bid in the property.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We had our lunch at Santa Ana.  Sheriff Rowland had a summons to serve on a party who lived there.  On inquiry, we found that he was out at a ranch owned by him three miles from Santa Ana.  We drove there, found him at work in a young orange orchard.  He was served with the summons and we drove back to Santa Ana.  This side trip added six miles to our distance for the day.  From Santa Ana we drove back to Anaheim, then north through Fullerton to the mouth of Brea Canyon, hunting a sheep-herder named Jacques Forgues.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Any person, who ever had anything to do with sheep and has been fairly observant, will know that when a sheep is not feeding, and has nothing in its mouth, bleats, it says, "Ba."  If the same sheep bleats with its mouth full of grass, it says, "Bla."  Jacques Forgues certainly had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:the bleat of the feeding sheep down to perfection.  When we reached him Mr. Rowland saluted him and said:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Well, Forgues, how are the sheep?<LB>"Bla, fine," he replied.<LB>"How long have you had this flock here?"<LB>"Bla, about two weeks."<LB></HI>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Rowland then told him he had a subpoena for him, a copy of which he handed him, commanding him to be in court on a certain day at ten o'clock.  As we drove away Rowland said that he had known that fellow a long time and he wondered why he made that noise when he went to talk.  I told him that I knew, and I detailed the following experience with him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1875, I had subpenaed Forgues at the trial of a case appealed from the Justice's Court at San Fernando to the County Court, presided over by Judge O'Melveny, the action being one for damages caused to a growing grain crop by a flock of sheep which Forgues was herding near San Fernando.  When the case came on Forgues was in court.  In time he was called to the stand.  The clerk swore him in, he holding up his hand and nodding his head in affirmation of the oath, and the following examination occurred.  I asked him:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"What is your name?"<LB>"Bla, Jacques Forgues."<LB>"Where do you reside?"<LB>"Bla, San Fernando."<LB>"What is your occupation?"<LB>"Bla, sheepherder."<LB></HI>
095.sgm:<P>At this point Judge O'Melveny, interrupting, said to the witness:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Mr. Forgues, can you not answer the questions put to you without making that disagreeable noise?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Forgues fanned the air with his lower jaw, waved his hands in all directions, and replied:</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"Wh-wh-when I-I-I d-d-do that I-I-I d-d-do not st-st-st-stutter."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge O'Melveny apologized and told him to proceed.  Now, all the books, or many of them, say that stuttering or stammering is caused by attempting to speak with an exhausted lung, that is, a lung without air in it.  It seems to me that the "Bla" that Forgues indulged in would have still further taken the air from his lungs, but the expression certainly worked with him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>After bidding him good-bye we came from the mouth of Brea canyon in almost a straight line over the mesa and through what is now Whittier, where there was not a single dwelling, and through the Paso de Bartolo Rancho, or Ranchito, as it was called, which was largely planted to corn.  We forded the San Gabriel River, near a point where the cement bridge on Whittier Boulevard has been built.  We drove through the Laguna Rancho to the country now known as Boyle Heights, where there were but a few dwellings, crossed the Los Angeles River in the covered bridge at Macy Street, and then crossed over by a side street to Aliso Street.  Mr. Rowland had just figured the distance we had traveled during the day at 84 miles.  The sun had gone down, but as it was summer-time, it was still light.  As often happens at that hour of the day, a gentle wind blew from the west.  When we were in front of the Philadelphia Brewery, on Aliso Street, a large sheet of brown wrapping paper, carried by the wind, slithered across the street just in front of the horse.  He seized the bit and bolted on a dead run, which he kept up some ten blocks to Los Angeles Street, nearly colliding with a Southern Pacific locomotive which stood at the edge of the crossing at Alameda Street.  He crossed Los Angeles Street, dashed one block up Commercial to Main Street, crossed it diagonally to Temple, ran up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Pretty good for a horse which had hauled two men in a buggy, over natural roads, some of them sandy, 84 miles, in less than 12 hours.  The next day Rowland drove that same horse to Pomona, by way of Spadra, and back by way of Azusa, a distance of fully seventy miles.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In the same livery stable where Mr. Rowland kept this horse was a roan pacing horse, named "Toby," who did not weigh 1,000 pounds.  He would take two people, in a buggy, to Santa Monica Beach, in one hour.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>TWO BUGGY HORSES I OWNED.  "A ROMANCE OF THE WAR"</P>
095.sgm:<P>AT THE TIME I am writing of, nearly everybody had a good buggy horse or a good driving team.  All the farmers, who usually came into Los Angeles on Saturdays, drove good animals and seemed to take pride in them.  I owned two remarkable teams, the first one "Bummer" and "Kitty Baker."  "Bummer" was so named because he had no pedigree.  Mr. F. W. Slaughter, known as "Fin" Slaughter, an old-time Kentuckian, in the early '60's, conducted hydraulic mining on the head-waters of the San Gabriel River and made a very considerable amount of money, although he paid his men as high as $20 per day.  The Mojave Indians came up Big Rock Creek, crossed the divide into the San Gabriel Canyon, and in a fight killed two of his men.  Slaughter and his other men drove the Indians off, and he concluded to abandon the mines and came out of the canyon.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Out of his accumulated savings, Mr. Slaughter bought quite a large tract of land at Rincon, in San Bernardino County, where he lived until his death.  In those days, people used to trek from Texas to Oregon, and others from Oregon to Texas.  Quite a band of emigrants, going from Oregon to Texas, pulled into Slaughter's place one night.  There were men, women and children, with several wagons, in the party, and they were driving quite a little band of loose horses.  They obtained hay and grain for their animals from Slaughter and he gave them milk and butter and eggs for themselves.  During the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>On account of his lack of pedigree, Slaughter then and there christened the colt "Bummer."  He proved to be a most likely animal and when four years old Slaughter sold him to a drunken shoemaker at Pomona.  As told to me, the shoemaker abused the colt frightfully, and one day he was found, where he had been attempting to open a gate, dead, and literally trampled to pulp.  The theory is that the exasperated horse, when the drunken shoemaker went to his head to open the gate, knocked him down and trampled upon him.  When found, the horse, harnessed to a sulky, was standing not twenty feet away, and he made no attempt to get away.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When "Bummer" was seven years old, he was owned in Los Angeles by Mr. Charles J. Ellis, an attorney at law and quite a horse fancier.  Having more animals than he needed, he sold me "Bummer" for $400, and he was the cheapest piece of horse-flesh I ever owned.  He was a red roan with dark points, that is, his legs from the knees down, and his nose, were black.  Mr. L. J. Rose told me that he was the most perfectly built horse for speed that he ever saw.  He contemplated buying him from Ellis for track purposes, but said to himself that he should not buy a horse when he could not possibly train all the colts on his place and had to sell some of them in the raw stage.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Bummer" had a beautiful carriage, was splendidly built and muscled.  As long as I owned him I never touched a whip to him.  Mr. Ferguson, who kept a livery <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>The other member of the team, "Kitty Baker," came to me in the following manner.  Col. R. S. Baker, whose wife owned the Baker Block, and who, with John P. Jones, owned the San Vicente Rancho, had quite a number of animals grazing on that ranch.  They were living in the brush during the winter, and Ike Johnson, who had charge of the animals, one day told me that there was one of "Old Peggy's" colts, sired by "Echo," the celebrated breeding stallion of Luther J. Titus, in the band, which was simply going to waste, and that she was so poor she could hardly walk.  He suggested to me that I ask Col. Baker to let me take her and break her.  Johnson said that Baker would never want her and I would be that much ahead.  I spoke to the Colonel about it and he said, "All right," and told Johnson to send her up to me and leave her at Ferguson's stable.</P>
095.sgm:<P>A few days afterwards, in February, Col. Baker and I were standing in front of the entrance to the Baker Block.  There was a drizzling rain falling.  I saw a vaquero leading a bay mare who, in form and in her every action, showed class and breeding, but she was thin as a rail and did not look as large as a jack-rabbit.  The vaquero was looking for Ferguson's stable.  I said to Col. Baker:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Colonel, there is your mare."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He looked at her, turned up his nose and answered:  "If that thing came off of my ranch, I don't want it to ever go back there."</P>
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095.sgm:<P>That was as good as a bill of sale to me for the mare.  I sent her to my place in Alhambra, and she responded to care and feed very rapidly, seemed to grow immediately, and took on very considerable weight.  She was no trouble to break, and was just one of the sweetest drivers I ever saw.  I already owned "Bummer" and when we moved out to the ranch for the summer I drove the pair of them back and forth.  While living in town, in wintertime, very often I was too busy to drive them, and a driver from the stable would take the team and give Mrs. Graves and the children an afternoon ride.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I do not know how fast that team could travel, but one day I was in a surrey with a top to it, and Walter Mabin, L. J. Rose's trainer, hailed me and asked me if I would drive him and a companion down to Agricultural Park, where he was training a number of L. J. Rose's horses.  I did so and when we got to the track he asked me to drive in, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I want you to drive this team a mile.  I would like to know how fast they could pull this surrey."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He held the watch, and in a top surrey, with three people in it, I drove them a full mile, without a skip or a break, in 3 minutes and 10 seconds (3:10).  Mabin declared it a wonderful performance, and as there were quite a number of large purses offered on various tracks, that year, for double teams, he wanted me to let him take the team and train them for the fall races.  He said he would not charge me a cent, and that if I would pay the entrance fees we would divide the winnings.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I had fully made up my mind, and adhered to it, ever since my celebrated poker game with my father, that I would not gamble, and I, in this instance, adhered to it.  Furthermore, I needed the team myself.  I drove those animals with the greatest pleasure, to both myself and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>When I had had "Kitty Baker" about fifteen months, I heard Col. Baker say one day that he had to drive out to the Laguna Ranch.  I volunteered to take him, and asked him if Mrs. Baker would not like to go with us.  He went and saw her and then came back and said that she would be glad to go, and that her niece (now Mrs. John T. Gaffey) would go with us.  The next afternoon we drove out, Mrs. Baker and her niece sitting on the rear seat of the surrey, and Col. Baker sitting on the front seat with me.  Before we returned the Colonel became very enthusiastic about my team, and at one time, speaking of "Kitty," said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Where on earth did you get that beautiful well mannered mare?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I reminded him that, a little over a year before, he had said that if she came off of his ranch he never wanted her to go back.  He replied:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Well, I made a bad bargain, but I will not go back on it.  I think that she is the most beautiful animal that I ever rode behind."</P>
095.sgm:<P>My next team was "Eliza Cook" and "Bob Mason."  "Bob Mason" was sired by a horse of the same name, who was a colt of "Echo," the celebrated stallion owned by L. J. Titus, and he had been bred and raised by the same Charles J. Ellis from whom I bought "Bummer."  I bought "Bob" from a milkman named Platt, whom I think is still living, now on the San Fernando Ranch.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Eliza Cook" I acquired in a peculiar manner.  My partner, Mr. J. H. Shankland, was looking for a buggy-horse.  One morning he said to me:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Graves, there is just the finest driver I ever saw, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I told him to have the man bring her around.  He telephoned to him, he drove up to the Baker Block, I got in, drove the mare four blocks, and paid him $250 for her, a ridiculously low price, but that was all he asked for her.  At that time horse-flesh was very cheap.  She was a San Bernardino-bred mare and had a track record of 2:18 as a four-year-old.  She was seven years old when I bought her.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Shankland bought a horse at Santa Paula for $125, paid a horse-trainer $100 for handling him awhile, and a little later gave a man $50 to come to his place and take him out of his barn and get rid of him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Eliza" and "Bob" made me fully as good a team as were "Bummer" and "Kitty Baker."  "Bob" could trot just as fast as "Eliza" could.  It is rather singular that neither of my teams were matched in color.  "Bummer" was a red roan and "Kitty Baker" a beautiful bay, while "Eliza Cook" was coal black and "Bob" was bay, but they mated in size, disposition and gait.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I used the latter team until 1907, when I got my first brace of automobiles.  Both animals were then getting old, so I gave "Bob" to a son of Mr. Thomas Gooch of Rivera, who was managing the Rosemead Ranch which the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank had acquired by foreclosure, and he treated the animal as kindly as anybody could have wished.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We kept "Eliza Cook" for the use of George Edmonds, an old colored man who lived with us, and with her he gave the grandchildren buggy rides and went to market and on errands for Mrs. Graves.  Finally, her ankles got so weak that they would not sustain her weight, and I had a veterinary chloroform her.  I never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:owned but one horse after her death.  How I acquired him, and what became of him, is best told in a story I wrote for the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"A ROMANCE OF THE WAR"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"For some twenty years prior to 1917, there lived with us, at our home in Alhambra, an aged colored man named George Edmonds.  He followed us up from Terminal Island, one time, after we had spent the summer there, and, somehow or other, he just stayed with us.  He was a typical Tennessee darkey, tall, good-looking; had been a slave; a carpenter by profession; quite handy at general jobs; willing, obedient, and grateful for kind treatment.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"When automobiles came in vogue, I turned over to him one of my buggy animals, `Eliza Cook,' and he drove her in a buggy, going for the mail and attending to various errands for the family.  Finally, `Eliza Cook' gave out.  Her ankles would no longer sustain her weight, and we had a veterinary put her out of her misery.  I then bought a good-looking sorrel horse for George, which he used as a substitute for `Eliza.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"When the war broke out, my son-in-law, Mr. E. S. Armstrong, went to New Jersey as one of the managers of a large ammunition factory there.  My daughter, Mrs. Armstrong, and her children, stayed with us.  Two of the children, Kitty and Betty, were small girls at that time.  It was their delight to ride in the buggy with old George.  He would take them to the post-office and to market, and allow them to drive `Joe,' the new horse.  One morning George died suddenly, without pain, from apoplexy; and he lies buried in our family plot in the San Gabriel Cemetery.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Having no use for `Joe,' I wrote to the army officials at Los Angeles, telling them that I had a good horse which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"What was the astonishment of Mrs. Graves, however, a few days ago, to have a call from Lieut. Irvine, accompanied by a charming French lady, whom he had married, and their little child.  He is now vice-president and general manager of the Mexican States line of steamers, English owned, and plying between California points, Mexico and Central America.  He informed us that `Joe' had proved to be a wonderful horse.  He simply gloried in the strife of battle.  Neither a battery of guns, nor bursting shells, nor scattering shots, nor cannon balls, had the slightest effect upon his nerves, and he came through the strife unscathed.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Lieut. Irvine was not so fortunate.  He was gassed, and at the hospital where he was treated were a French lady and her daughter, nursing the soldiers.  The daughter he subsequently married.  The mother has a landed estate in France, and `Joe,' whom we presented to the government, is now in her possession and in honored retirement.  He must be now some 14 or 15 years of age.  Thousands and thousands of the best blooded horses of Kentucky went over the seas, during the war, and if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Just to let my readers know that sometimes I got the bitter with the sweet, between the times I owned "Bummer" and "Kitty Baker" and "Eliza Cook" and "Bob Mason," I bought a good-looking team, a bay and a black, well mated, apparently sound, and very good drivers, from a farmer in El Monte.  They proved just as big a failure as my other teams were successes.  I do not think they had ever had a thing to eat but green alfalfa, and the minute we put them on grain and hay they became as gaunt as greyhounds and looked to be all legs.  I gave them to a horse-trainer to put into shape.  At the end of two weeks he brought them back to me and said that they were impossible, that he could not do anything with them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The black horse had a habit of striking his left leg, just below the knee, with the toe of his right foot, and he was constantly lame.  I traded him off to Harry Rose, son of L. J. Rose, for a setting of guinea eggs, none of which hatched, and still I thought I was ahead of the game.  The bay horse I tried to do something with, but he was beyond redemption as far as service was concerned.  One Sunday morning I had prepared to take him out into the orchard and shoot him, and was going to bury him between four orange trees.  My partner, Mr. Shankland, happened to drive in, saw me with the horse, a revolver in my hand, and said: "What are you going to do with that horse?"  I told him I was going to kill him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Oh," he said, "don't kill that nice horse!  If you don't want him, give him to me."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I handed him the halter strap, and said, "All right, but I want the halter back."  And subsequently I got it.  I never did find out what Shankland did with the horse.  Every time I would ask him how his horse was getting along, he would say, "Oh, Graves, please don't make me laugh."</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>IMPORTING SOUTHERN SADDLE HORSES.  MY ONLY EXPERIENCE AS A RACE RIDER</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN THE SPRING of 1903, several mutual friends, viz., Judge E. M. Ross, Judge John D. Works, Mr. L. A. Grant, Mr. A. C. Billicke,  Mr. William E. Dunn, Mr. R. H. Lacy, Mr. W. D. Woolwine and Mr. Frank P. Flint, and myself, came to the conclusion that we had become too dignified to ride the ordinary California saddle horse, and we determined to import some five-gaited blooded saddle animals from the East.  Mr. Carroll Gates of Los Angeles was then engaged in the cattle business at Kansas City.  He said that we could get excellent horses there, and as he was going to Kansas City he volunteered to buy them for us.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He engaged the services of Mr. Paul E. Eubank, a very responsible horse-dealer there.  As usual, the laboring oar fell to me.  Eubank would select a horse, show it to Gates who would wire me that he had such an such and animal, giving breeding, size, etc., and say it would be suitable for so-and-so, mentioning one of the party.  I would show the description to the party named, and if he was satisfied I would wire back to Gates to buy the animal.  It was not long before he had nine head selected.  He picked out for me a horse named "Rex Claibourne."  He was a son of "Rex McDonald," one of the most celebrated saddle-horse sires in that section of the country.  He was seal-brown, of quite large size, well-muscled, had a beautiful head and splendid carriage.  All of the horses were five-gaited.</P>
095.sgm:<P>After their purchase, Eubank had a car specially <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I had gotten "Rex" somewhat accustomed to automobiles.  One day I was riding him on Garfield Avenue, near my home, and a friend of mine was in a big Winton car.  I asked him to go slowly, while I held "Rex" right up behind the car.  As luck would have it, a rear tire exploded, with a frightful noise, in the poor horse's face.  He made only one motion and we were going the other way, just as fast as he could run, in less time than it takes to tell it.  I have ridden all sorts of mustangs, but I never got just such a jolt as he gave me, and how I retained my seat I do not know.  I had to begin all over again with the automobiles, as one could well imagine.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He was equally afraid of the big red electric cars.  They were then running on Huntington Drive.  I was riding on the south side of that street, just east of Garfield Avenue, when I heard a car coming at a great rate from the direction of Monrovia.  I swung "Rex" around so he could see it.  As it came opposite us he went off backwards quite rapidly, and ran into a bank of loose earth about four feet high, and toppled over on his side.  My left leg was under him.  He was floundering around trying to get up, and I saw another car coming from the other direction and I concluded I had better get out of there, so, with face downwards, I was crawling away <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I was not able to ride him for about ten days, so I had the man who was taking care of him tie him to a big walnut tree on our place and not over sixty feet from the railroad track, for several hours each day.  A good strong rope was used, which was tied around his neck and then through the ring in his halter.  At first, he performed at a very lively rate, but he soon settled down and in a short time paid no attention to the cars.  He was a brainy horse, and just as soon as he found that neither the automobiles nor the street-cars were going to injure him, he made friends with them and in a very short time my daughters were riding him.  At the luncheon table at the California Club, one day, I was detailing the above experiences with "Rex," Judge Ross being present.  Some one else said, "Well, this morning I saw Billy Dunn's horse shy at a street-car, and he dashed off down the street, Dunn's feet out of the stirrups and both arms around the horse's neck."  Judge Ross, with a merry twinkle in his eye and with mirth in his voice, said:</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"I now see that I was very fortunate my horse died."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Rex" was seven years old when I got him.  When I lost my limb in 1913, I gave him to my friend, Col. Geo. S. Patton of San Gabriel, and both he and his daughter used him for a number of years after that.  I think all of the members of this party who received one of these horses had quite strenuous times with them until they became used to the street-cars and autos.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When preparing to write this article I remembered that we imported nine horses, but could think of only seven names of the parties.  I had taken the file, showing all of the correspondence, payments, and soon, after the transaction was concluded, and put it in a tin box which is in one of the safes in the vault.  I went down to get the other two names.  If I were at all susceptible to flattery, the very complimentary letters received from the other members of the party, thanking me for the service I had rendered them and congratulating me on the excellence of the animals which each one of them had received, would have completely turned my head.  I had forgotten all about them until I looked them over a few days since.</P>
095.sgm:<P>While on the subject of horses, I must relate another incident that occurred in my boyhood days.  After the death of my brother and sister, and while we were living at Marysville, in the fall, when harvesting was finished, my mother, my brother and myself would drive to Quincy, Plumas County, to get out of the fall heat.  My uncle, James H. Haun, known to every body as Uncle Jimmie Haun, lived on the north side of the main street, running east and west, in Quincy.  He had a farm of several hundred acres, north of this street.  He raised splendid timothy and oats.  He built a mile track on his property, also stables for stabling horses.  All of the valley horses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>One year, when we were there, there were two Missourians, who lived in Colusa County, Mart and Joe Gibson, brothers.  Joe Gibson was a huge man, while Mart was much smaller, and they differed a great deal in characteristics.  They had a string of horses there, and while they were training them, I used to ride two or three of them every morning.  They had a Mexican boy who was to ride their races for them.  About a week before the races were to begin, coming in from the track one morning, the Mexican boy's horse shied suddenly and threw him off.  He struck his head against a pine tree and was instantly killed.  There were no telegraph lines, at that date, leading into Quincy or any place near there.  The Gibsons put a man on the stage, next morning, to go to the valley and get them another rider.  They figured that he would get back the day before the races began.  He did not, however, but returned the second day of the races.  They had one horse entered the first day of the races, and they insisted on my riding him.  I told them to go and ask my mother's consent, which they did.  I overheard the conversation, and she said that I had done so many fool things in my life that it would not hurt me to ride a race.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I was very tall, wiry, heavy for my age, and to get me to anything like weight, they put me into the lightest cotton underwear they could find, with nothing over it, and a pair of thin slippers on my feet.  They did not give me either whip or spur.  As I mounted my horse I begged them to give me a whip.  They said, "No, no. You will not need it."  It seems the horse I was to ride was an old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>At that time Quincy, which was in Plumas County, was one of the most beautiful places I ever laid eyes on.  It was in a sort of bowl, with mountains in a circular form to the south.  The land sloped north into quite a valley, through which Spanish Creek, a tributary of Feather River, ran.  There was an opening on the east, leading to Indian Valley, and to the west, through which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>In 1922, being at Lake Tahoe and the hotel there closing sooner than I anticipated, and having several days more of my vacation, I determined to visit Quincy via Feather River Inn.  Some members of my family were with me.  It was just fifty-six years since I had seen Quincy.  The change was depressing.  All of the big, fine trees, scattered throughout the town, had been felled.  There were many more buildings, but they were not as well-kept as in the old days.  On the road from Quincy to Bidwell's Bar, a distance of some sixty miles, not a new house appeared on either side of the road.  All of the old buildings, including the barns and outhouses, were in a state of dilapidation, but the timber along the road had grown enormously.  I recognized every bend and every stream en route.  About midway between Quincy and Bidwell's Bar, there is a flat lava plain, called Walker's Plain, probably two miles long, varying in width from one hundred yards to several hundred.  In driving over it, one makes quite an ascent from the traveled road and a little descent when one leaves the plain.  Fifty-six years before, there was not a tree, shrub or vine on Walker's Plain.  It was simply a mass of broken black lava, in all sorts of forms.  Constant travel had ground some of it down, where the road ran, and at one point, by walking a hundred yards to the western limit of the plain, one got a magnificent view of the Sacramento Valley from Red Bluff to Marysville.  Even the Marysville Buttes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>At Bidwell's Bar, sixty-one years ago, and in 1922, there was a suspension bridge over Feather River.  In former days it was a toll bridge, but it is now a free bridge.  The toll-gate keeper lived on the right-hand side of the road, coming out of the valley, and on the other side of the road he had two immense seedling orange trees then bearing.  Mind you, that was sixty-one years ago.  On my last trip to Quincy I had paid him one dollar for two oranges to take home to my mother.  In 1922, one of these trees was still standing, unkempt, and a pine tree was growing up through the branches.  It was taller than the orange tree, and yet the orange tree was full of large-sized fruit.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On my return I wrote to the Board of Supervisors of Butte County, telling them that as they were advertising Butte County as suitable to grow oranges, and the life of an orange tree is not known, here was a tree which, to my knowledge, fifty-six years before the date of my letter, was bearing oranges, and yet it was being allowed to be destroyed by other growths.  I suggested that they could have no better advertisement of their county as an orange-growing district than to carefully care for the tree.  I never received an answer to my letter.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>DEBT OF GRATITUDE OWING PIONEERS GEORGE CHAFFEY.  GEN. HARRISON GRAY OTIS</P>
095.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES COUNTY never can pay its debt of gratitude to the pioneers, to its outstanding early settlers, who did things, and, in time, let the world know the possibilities of the Southland.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Among the native Californians who should be forever honored were Don Manuel Dominguez, Don Antonio Coronel, Pancho Palomares, the Machados, the Lugos, and many others.  Among the Americans were Phineas Banning, Don Abel Stearns, Harris Newmark, I. W. Hellman, J. M. Griffith, O. W. Childs, Don David Alexander, Prudent Beaudry, L. J. Rose, L. H. Titus, William Wolfskill, B. D. Wilson, J. De Barth Shorb, B. Dreyfus, Don Mateo Keller, Juan Bernard, A. Langenberger, of Anaheim, Jacob Kuhrts, who hauled freight from Los Angeles to Salt Lake and Butte, Montana; Jotham and Llewellyn Bixby, James Irvine, James McFadden, Kaspare Cohn, Daniel Freeman, Isaac Lankershim, I. N. Van Nuys, George K. and B. F. Porter, and A. T. Currier.  Some of them antedate others, in point of time of their arrival here, but they all accomplished things for the good of Los Angeles.</P>
095.sgm:<P>At a later period came Secundo Guasti, who established the largest vineyard in the world, viz., that of the Italian Vineyard Company; E. J. Baldwin, orange and vine grower and the breeder of thoroughbred running horses.  Then there were the sheep men, including Marius <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Coming a little later than most of those I have mentioned was Mr. George Chaffey, the father of Mr. Andrew M. Chaffey.  He was born in Ontario, Canada, was compelled to leave school on account of ill-health, and when fourteen years of age entered the employ of his uncle, Benjamin Chaffey, a construction engineer.  He drank deeply at this fountain of engineering and himself became a most eminent member of the profession.  From this employment he tried the steamship business with his father, and was captain of several lake vessels.  In 1877, he designed and constructed a lake steamer, "Geneva," which, for her speed, attracted the attention of the engineering world of that period.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In about 1880, he came to California to visit his father, who had migrated here, and settled in Riverside, in 1878, and who was one of the first orange-growers in that county.  Delighted with California, Mr. George Chaffey decided to remain here.  In 1881, he purchased the Garcia Ranch, a portion of the Cucamonga, where Etiwanda is situated.  With his brother, he subdivided these lands, naming the settlement Etiwanda.  He brought water from a nearby mountain canyon, put it on these lands, and incorporated the Etiwanda Water Company.  He created an innovation in the ownership of water by having it represented by shares of stock in the corporation.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1882, he purchased another portion of the Cucamonga Rancho and subdivided his purchase as Ontario.  He established a telephone line from Etiwanda to San Bernardino, then the longest telephone line in operation in the world.  He laid out Euclid Avenue, in Ontario, planted the trees now growing there, and endowed the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>In 1884, we find him president and engineer of the Los Angeles Electric Company, subsequently acquired by the Los Angeles Gas &amp; Electric Company.  He thus gave to Los Angeles its first electric lighting and power system.  He also developed a water supply of large quantity, for Whittier, taking water by wells from the bed of the San Gabriel River at a point a little distance east of El Monte.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He was the pioneer in the development of Imperial Valley, and constructed the first canal which took the waters of the Colorado River into that valley.  Seeking new worlds to conquer, he went to Australia, and had wonderful success there in his engineering line and as a colony promoter.  He is now eighty years old, living in Los Angeles, in good health but quite deaf.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The reason that Los Angeles has attained her present position is that she has been blessed with pioneers like the men I have mentioned, men of vision, ability and faith in this country.  Through their united efforts, more has been accomplished, in agriculture, viticulture and horticulture, with the amount of water developed here, than in any other community in the world.</P>
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095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GEN. HARRISON GRAY OTIS</P>
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095.sgm:<P>Others followed Mr. Chaffey's lead in power development.  After a long, hard siege, Mr. W. G. Kerckhoff, Mr. A. C. Balch, Mr. Abe Haas and Mr. Kaspare Cohn, operating as the San Gabriel Light &amp; Power Company, constructed the works of that company in the San Gabriel Canyon, consisting of miles of tunnels and a power-house at the mouth of the canyon, and transmitted power some thirty miles to Los Angeles.  This was considered a remarkable achievement.  Within a week after that company began to deliver power to Los Angeles, the Southern California Edison Company transmitted power from Mill Creek, in San Bernardino County, to Los Angeles, three times as far as the San Gabriel delivery.  The latter company is now bringing power to Los Angeles, hundreds of miles, from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, from a point east of Fresno.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Los Angeles led the way in hydroelectric power development for the entire State of California, which is now honeycombed with transmission power lines, many of them delivering power hundreds of miles from their power stations.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In mentioning pioneers of Los Angeles County, it will not do to overlook Mr. Joseph D. Lynch, Editor of <HI REND="italics">The Herald</HI>
095.sgm:, and Mr. Harrison Gray Otis, who founded <HI REND="italics">The Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>No man ever came to this city or county who did more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>It is to be hoped that the people of Los Angeles will never forget the services rendered the community by General Otis and that they will, for all time, revere his memory.  Nor must we forget Gen. Otis's loyal friend, Gen. M. H. Sherman and his brother-in-law, Mr. E. P. Clark, who first connected this city with Pasadena and the beaches by electric car-lines.  They were pioneers here in electric railway development.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>POLITICAL BOSSES IN LOS ANGELES.  EDITED A DEMOCRATIC CAMPAIGN SHEET</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN 1875, the political boss of the Democratic party in this county was Mr. Thomas D. Mott.  He was a benevolent boss, good-looking, kindly disposed, of a genial manner, a most excellent social poker-player, and just deaf enough so that he did not hear anything that he didn't want to hear, and yet with sufficient hearing to hear everything that he did want to hear.  He came pretty near controlling the Democratic conventions when they met.  I will say this of him, however, he never betrayed his party nor his friends, and he gave us better officials by far than we are getting under the direct primary system.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He was ably assisted by Mr. J. De Barth Shorb of San Gabriel, Mr. Thomas Gooch of Rivera, Mr. W. J. Brodrick and Mr. Andy Ryan, and later on, by that rising young statesman, Mr. John T. Gaffey.  Gaffey was, and is yet, a political genius, and a power in the councils of his party.  He and Stephen M. White were great friends, and I am glad to say that they not only always worked for the good of the party but for the good of the people of Los Angeles county and of the nation.</P>
095.sgm:<P>At that time, the Republican Party in this county was so insignificant in numbers that it did not need a boss, but in time, as population began to increase, the Republican population increased faster than did the Democratic population, and the boss of the Republican party was Mr. John R. Brierly.  Working with him were Mr. Frank A. Gibson, Mr. Edward Bouton, Mr. D. M. Berry from Pasadena, and later on, Mr. G. Wiley Wells of Los Angeles.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Walter S. Moore, a young man who, with his mother, came to Los Angeles from Philadelphia in the early '70's, became quite prominent in the Republican Party.  He was a very expert wire-puller and manipulator.  He was a reformer of the type that would have been much admired by the reformers who are now ruling the great State of California.  He was nominated for some office, in the Republican convention, and was called upon to ratify the platform.  One plank in it was a very violent denunciation of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company.  It actually laid at the door of this company everything of evil that had happened in the world from the date of the Flood down to the day the convention was held.  In addressing the convention, Moore read this section of the platform, announced his allegiance to it, and then said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Gentlemen of the Convention: In a moment of weakness, some time ago, I accepted a passenger pass from this unholy monopoly."  He reached into his pocket, pulled out the pass, tore it into fragments so small that no one could see a date on it, and threw it on the floor.  He said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"By this act I denounce the monopoly and I pledge myself to do everything that I can to rescue our fair land from the strangle-hold it has upon us."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He proceeded in this way for some time, amid the loud cheering of the delegates.  It developed, however, that the pass which he destroyed was one about to expire, and that the renewal of it rested safely in another pocket.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In the county convention held in 1875, after I came here, Mr. Cameron E. Thom, an old-time resident and a good lawyer, was a candidate for nomination for district <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"I have known the father and mother of this young man from childhood.  They were born Democrats, and Rodney M. Hudson, my candidate, was sired by a Democratic father, nursed at the breast of a Democratic mother, and imbibed the true principles of Democracy."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He went on at this rate for half an hour, and his argument was so persuasive that he carried all the county delegates, and, much to the surprise of everybody, when the votes were counted Hudson was nominated.  He was elected and made a dismal failure in office.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge Anson Brunson had been district attorney of Napa County.  He was a very able man and a good lawyer.  He had a little red ledger, in which he had written the form of an indictment for every crime known to the statutes up to that time.  When Hudson's first grand jury was to meet, he came up and borrowed this book from Brunson.  Our firm was employed by a good many of the parties who were indicted, and we were unable to sustain a demurrer to a single indictment, and had to go to trial, but acquitted quite a number of them.  When we had gotten through with the trial calendar, Brunson gritted his teeth and said:</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"I am not going to practice law against my own indictments."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He had, in his youth, peddled lightning rods in Wisconsin and could climb like a monkey.  Hudson's office was in the Temple Block, on the second floor, one floor below ours.  One day Brunson watched him go to lunch, and he went into the adjoining office, which was open, crawled out the window, crept along the ledge of the building, entered Hudson's office through a window, recaptured his little book, went out by the office door, which closed with a spring lock, brought the book up to the office and locked it up in our safe.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In a few days Hudson came in, in great distress, and told Brunson that somebody had stolen that red book.  Brunson looked at Hudson with great gravity, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I am astonished, Rodney, that you would be so careless with my property.  I haven't anything that I value more highly than I do that book, and now you have lost it."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then he put his hand on Hudson's shoulder and said: "But, come to think about it, I have a copy of it.  I think it is up in my attic at home."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Have you?" said Hudson.  "Let me have it and I will copy such indictments as I need and immediately return it to you."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Brunson went down to Sam Hellman's stationery store, hunted around until he found a book thoroughly shop-worn and discolored with dust, bought it, locked himself up in the library with it, and, in faded ink, copied into it every indictment that he had in the red book; but he left out just enough, from each indictment, to invalidate the same.  For instance: if the indictment were to charge that a man had done some act wilfully or feloniously, he would omit the wilfully or feloniously.  After <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"There, Hudson, there's your book.  It looks pretty bad.  Has been kicking around the attic for some time.  Now, don't lose it."</P>
095.sgm:<P>The grand jury met and returned something like forty indictments.  Demurrers were sustained to each of them.  Hudson was very soundly reprimanded by Judge O'Melveny for his carelessness in drawing the indictments.  Shortly afterwards, Hudson took S. C. Hubbel, a very good lawyer, into partnership with him and made him a deputy, and between them, after that, they were able to get out indictments that would hold water.</P>
095.sgm:<P>It was a very common practice for the politicians, in the '70's, to buy votes openly at every election held.  There used to be an alley-way running through the old Temple Block, where voters were herded, taken out in small quotas, voted at the court house, and then paid off in Jake Philippi's beer saloon, which was in the Temple Block.  At the election held during the Tilden-Hayes campaign, some local issues were involved, and a great deal of money was spent on election day.  Two men had been working together, like the engine and tender of a locomotive.  One of these men would deliver the votes, give the voter a card, with the amount to be paid on it, and then send him to Jake Philippi's, where the other would pay him off.  That night, the man who had been delivering the votes, after the polls had closed, took a few more drinks than was good for him, and was about half-shot.  He wandered up to Steve White's office, which was Democratic headquarters, on the second floor in the northeast corner of the Temple Block.  That evening they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>When I arrived in Los Angeles, my parents being Southern people and Democrats, and having been brought up in a Democratic atmosphere, I was a red-hot Democrat.  I shouted for "free trade, home rule and hard money," as loudly and as long as ever Thomas H. Benton, from Missouri, could.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There was quite a hot local campaign on, that year, for county officers.  Mr. Meyer Newmark was Chairman of the Democratic County Committee.  He conceived the idea of issuing a small campaign newspaper.  He came to me and offered me $250 if I would take charge of it.  I accepted.  He paid me $125 in advance.  We called it "The Daily Democrat."  I wrote all the editorials for it and some one else got up the locals.  We got a newspaper hack to get some advertisements for it among the faithful.  I have a copy of it yet.  I get it out and look at it once in awhile, and it is a wonder some of us did not get assassinated as the result of its publication.  The total vote of the county was not much in excess of 3,000 and the Democratic majority that year was about 1,800.  We discontinued the paper two days after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Shortly after that, Mr. Joseph D. Lynch, who was associated with Mr. J. J. Ayres in running the <HI REND="italics">Evening Express</HI>
095.sgm:, took charge of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
095.sgm:<P>I continued to be an adherent of Democracy until the Democratic National Convention in Chicago, in 1896, when Bryan made his "Cross of Gold" speech, and was nominated for the presidency.  During that convention, resolutions were adopted severely condemning Justice E. M. Ross, of the United States District Court, for this district, for having enjoined the striking Southern Pacific employes, in 1893, who were creating a reign of terror in Los Angeles, and also severely condemning Grover Cleveland for sending troops to Chicago to suppress the Haymarket riots.  If it had not been for Stephen M. White, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I was born during the administration of President Fillmore.  It is my honest opinion that, since the date of my birth, there have been but three men in the presidential chair of proper presidential timber.  They were Lincoln, Cleveland and Coolidge.  All the others have been politicians who placed politics above the welfare of the country.  Had Samuel J. Tilden been seated, when he was rightfully elected but robbed of the presidency, I could have added a fourth man to my list.  The Republican party politicians, by stealing the presidency from a man rightfully elected to it, forever disgraced the party.  I have always thought retribution for their part in the steal visited both Garfield and McKinley while they respectively occupied the presidential chair.  I know nothing about what happens to us in the next world, nor does anyone else.  We can surmise all we please, from what is written in the Scriptures, written we know not by whom, but actual proof of punishment in the future life has never been produced.  Many of the statements in the Bible are so incredible, so inconsistent, that many of the churches reject them entirely.  Faith alone, not reason, accepts much therein written which has not been discarded.  From observation and experience, I am convinced that retribution comes to the evil-doer while he is alive.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The chief points of difference between the Republican <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>STEPHEN M. WHITE.  WHITE AND J. S. CHAPMAN CONTRASTED</P>
095.sgm:<P>STEPHEN M. WHITE was an able and honorable politician.  He suffered defeats which would have disheartened a less determined individual than he was.</P>
095.sgm:<P>His father was a candidate for governor, in 1875, on an independent ticket.  "Steve" ran for district attorney of Los Angeles County on the same ticket, and was defeated by Rodney Hudson, the Democratic nominee.  At the next election White was defeated for the nomination for district attorney by Cameron E. Thom.  At the next election he was again defeated for the nomination by Thomas B. Brown.  Although he had loyally supported the Democratic ticket at all the elections since 1875, the Democratic politicians remembered that in that year he had run for district attorney on the independent ticket.  At the next election he was nominated for district attorney on the Democratic ticket, was elected by a large majority, and was ever afterwards the idol of the party, in Southern California.  He made a most admirable official, and was a terror to evil-doers.  He was a vigorous and relentless prosecutor, when he was satisfied of the guilt of the defendant, but was willing to temper justice with mercy, when there were serious doubts as to the guilt of the defendant or there were mitigating circumstances which rendered the offense less revolting, or which entitled the defendant to leniency.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He knew neither fear nor favor in the discharge of his duties.  While he and I were warm personal friends, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Stephen M. White's election to the United States Senate by the legislature of California was a personal triumph and in the face of the most violent opposition of the professional politicians and wire-pullers of the state Democratic machine.  In the senate he was, more than any other man, responsible for the location of the government harbor at San Pedro.  He often told me that Collis P. Huntington was the shrewdest, most persistent and remarkable man that he ever met.  While White was fighting him as hard as he was able to, on the Harbor question, Huntington never lost his temper, never showed resentment, but always met White amiably and with every evidence of affection.  When the fight was over, he shook hands with White, congratulated him, told him he liked his kind of a fighter, but that he still thought that White was wrong in advocating San Pedro over Santa Monica.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In an address before the Los Angeles Bar Association, made by me in 1910, I drew a contrast between Stephen M. White and John S. Chapman, as follows:</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"My friends, I have already trespassed upon your time and patience.  While much could yet be said on this subject, I must desist.  But I cannot leave you without paying a slight tribute to the memory of two of my closest friends, each an intellectual giant--John S. Chapman and Stephen M. White, lately of the Los Angeles bar.  I was thrown into intimate contact with both of these men for many years.  While in some respects alike, in others they were utterly dissimilar.  They were alike in the simplicity of their lives and characters.  They never realized their greatness.  They were alike in that each of them had completely mastered the great fundamental principles of all law and of all justice.  They differed in temperament.  White was cheerful in demeanor, hopeful, and always confident.  Chapman, gloomy, despondent and fearful of results.  Chapman shrank from, White sought, the applause of clamoring multitudes.  They differed in the manner in which they applied their vast knowledge of the law to the practical affairs of men.  Chapman acquired his legal knowledge by slow processes and the hardest kind of work.  White acquired his intuitively, but he rounded out his knowledge of it by close and earnest application.  Chapman was the profoundest, White the most versatile, lawyer I ever met.  They were associated together in much important litigation.  Chapman profited by the spur of White's more active mentality, White by Chapman's closer reasoning powers and more cautious mental analysis of legal conditions governing the subject under investigation.  Chapman was the clearer and deeper thinker, White the more aggressive advocate.  White was the past master of invective, Chapman of persuasion.  To win a jury, Chapman would not stoop to any of the tricks of the demagogue.  White would, but always moved by honest impulses.  Chapman enveloped a jury, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>STEPHEN M. WHITE<HSEP>J. S. CHAPMAN</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Contemplating the achievements of these two men, we must conclude that the human race is still progressing and advancing in intellectual development.  I rejoice that these men were my friends, that I had their respect and confidence, and that they loved and trusted me."</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA'S ERRATIC POLITICAL RECORD</P>
095.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA has always been an erratic state politically.  She espoused the Union cause, during the Civil War, largely through the efforts of Reverend Thomas Starr King, a Unitarian minister of San Francisco.  (Politicians, led by ex-Senator Phelan, are, nevertheless, seeking to have his bust in the Hall of Fame at Washington replaced by that of General Fremont.  The effort so far has failed.  The Governor of California has signed a bill naming Serra and King, for the honor.)</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1849, the first man to be elected governor of the state was Peter H. Burnett, a Democrat.  For a time, elections for governor came every year.  In 1850, John H. McDougall, also a Democrat, was elected to succeed Burnett.  In 1851, John Bigler, Democrat, was elected governor and re-elected in 1853.  In 1855, J. Nealey Johnson, of the Know-Nothing Party, was made governor.  He was followed, in 1857, by John B. Weller, a Democrat.  In 1859, Milton S. Latham, also a Democrat, was elected governor.  He was promoted to the United States Senate, when the legislature met, and John G. Downey, of Los Angeles, who had been elected lieutenant-governor at the same time that Latham was elected governor, served out Latham's unexpired term.  He made a great reputation by vetoing the Bulkhead Bill, but was defeated for re-election in 1861 by Leland Stanford, a Republican.  In 1863, Frederick C. Lowe, a Republican, was elected to succeed Stanford.  In 1867, Henry H. Haight, a sterling Democrat, was elected governor.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>William Irwin, a Democrat, was elected governor in 1875, and in 1879, George C. Perkins, a Republican, succeeded him.  After serving his term as governor, Perkins was elected to the United States Senate and served there, with credit to himself and the state, longer than any other man ever served in the senate from California.  In 1883, George Stoneman, of Los Angeles, a Democrat, with a creditable Civil War record, was elected governor.</P>
095.sgm:<P>As an exhibition of inconsistency in California politics, Governor Stoneman, during his administration, nominated Leland Stanford as a Regent of the University of California.  The legislature, then in session, rejected the nomination with scorn and derision.  The next legislature elected Stanford to the United States Senate. Had the appointment of Stanford, as a Regent of the University of California, been approved, the vast endowment which he left to Stanford University would probably have gone to the University of California.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Washington Bartlett, also a Democrat, succeeded Stoneman in 1887.  He died before his inauguration, and Robert W. Waterman, a Republican, who was elected lieutenant-governor at the same time Bartlett was elected governor, served out Bartlett's term.  H. H. Markham, of Pasadena, a Republican, was elected governor in 1890, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>In 1899, Henry T. Gage, of Los Angeles, a Republican, became governor.  In 1902, George C. Pardee, a Republican, somewhat off color, was elected to succeed Gage.  Then in 1906, James N. Gillette, a lawyer of Humboldt County, was elected governor.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1910, Hiram Johnson, styling himself a Progressive, was electedon the false and hypocritical slogan that he had "kicked the Southern Pacific Railroad out of politics."  The truth of the matter is that prior to the time that Johnson opened his campaign, Judge Lovett, president of the Southern Pacific, had announced in magazine articles that the business of the road was railroading, and not politics, and that he had forbidden all the officers and employes of the road from taking part in political affairs.  This left both parties in California disorganized.  The leaders of both the Republican and Democratic parties were largely railroad officials.  There was no one to oppose Johnson and he won, as it were, by default.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He gave us the direct primary, the referendum and the recall, under which political matters in California have been disturbed as they never were before.  The demoralization of the supreme court is complete.  Under the system, the judges are constantly being changed before they thoroughly get into the work of the court.  When the legislature elected Newton Booth to the senate, the next legislature of the state enacted a statute making a governor of the state ineligible as a candidate for the senate.  Johnson, desiring to go to the senate, had a subservient legislature repeal this provision of the statute making the governor ineligible for the senate, and in 1916, while still governor, he was elected to the senate as a Republican, which he was not, and never has been since <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>W. D. Stephens, an off-color Republican, was elected lieutenant-governor with Johnson, and occupied that position when Johnson was elected to the senate.  He served out the unexpired term of Johnson and was re-elected governor in 1918.  He was succeeded in 1922 by Friend W. Richardson, an anti-Johnsonite, who was elected governor, as a Republican, in 1922.  He made an excellent official and was defeated for re-election, in 1926, by C. C. Young, a Johnson follower, claiming to be a Republican.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Under the latter, all of the gangsters trained by Johnson during his first administration as governor, are again in office, with salaries increased and new offices created for political favorites to fill.  The Young administration promises to be the most reckless and extravagant the state has ever had.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Young's election was made possible by the fact that Johnson, Superintendent of Banks under Richardson, surrendered himself to two or three banks in Los Angeles City.  He gave them all they asked for in the way of branches and extensions.  He denied the Bank of Italy the same privileges.  This allied Giannini, the Bank of Italy and all of its friends, and all those whom Giannini could control, with the Young candidacy, and elected him.  After his inauguration Young appointed former Superintendent of Public Instruction, Wood, Bank Commissioner, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>From what has been written it will be seen that California, counting the persons who were elected lieutenant-governor who have occupied the gubernatorial chair, has had twenty-five governors, one of whom belonged to the Know-Nothing Party, nine of whom were Democrats and fifteen Republicans.  Some of the latter only belonged to that party in name and not in principles.  Southern California has not fared so badly in governors, as six out of the twenty-five have come from this section.</P>
095.sgm:<P>California has been equally erratic in the selection of her congressmen and United States senators.  She should have taken a lesson from the little State of Nevada, which kept John P. Jones its senator just as long as he would accept the office.  Most of California's congressmen and senators have been one-termers.  A man, unless he is of stupendous ability, like Steve White, cannot accomplish much in the senate in a six-year term.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>MY ADMISSION TO THE BAR.  FIRST PARTNERSHIP</P>
095.sgm:<P>COMING back to the law--I was examined for admission to the bar by the justices of the Supreme Court of the State of California, in open court, in San Francisco, on January 10th, 1876.  There were ten or twelve applicants in the class, including Judge R. M. Widney, who must have been fifty-two years of age, and who had served a term as judge of the district court of the seventeenth judicial district of the State of California, which embraced Los Angeles County.  I was personally and quite intimately acquainted with all of the justices of the court.  Justice Crockett examined us.  After a few preliminary questions, when he came to me, on the next round, he said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Mr. Graves, suppose my brother McKinistry (he was sitting next to him) had given me a note for $20,000, secured by a mortgage on real property; that the note was overdue as to principal and some of the interest, and although payment had been demanded, it had not been met.  Suppose I handed you this note and mortgage, and asked you to foreclose it--now, tell us, how you would proceed?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>He could not have put to me a question with which I was more familiar.  I answered him in effect as follows: I would immediately have the abstract upon which the loan was made continued, by a competent searcher of records, from the time the mortgage was recorded.  Here Judge McKinistry asked me, "Why would you do that?"  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>He then said, "You do not suppose I would do that, do you?"  I told him that as Judge Crockett had employed me to foreclose the mortgage, I could not deal in suppositions; that it was my duty to give Judge Crockett, or whoever purchased the property at the sale, a title to the property free of all encumbrances; that to do that, I had to make every one who had any interest in the property, subject to the mortgage, a party to the suit to foreclose, or wipe out such interests.  I then detailed each step I would take, including the filing of a lis pendens, when suit was brought, until I could secure a foreclosure decree, adding that I would then get from the clerk a writ of enforcement of the decree and give it to the sheriff and tell him to advertise the property for sale for the required time.  I would then consult Judge Crockett as to the amount he wanted me to bid on the property, if there were no other bidders, and follow his instructions, and after the sale, would deliver to Judge Crockett the sheriff's certificate of sale; and I would also consider it my duty to keep track of the matter and at the end of the period of redemption secure from the judge his certificate of sale and apply to the sheriff for a sheriff's deed of the property.  I added, that when that deed was recorded, my services would be ended.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge McKinistry then said: "Haven't you forgotten something?"  I replied that I did not think so.  Then he said, "You did not present your bill."  I told him that the collection of my fee was no part of my duties in securing the judge a good title to the property.  Nothing further was said and they did not ask me another question.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>There was a young man in the class about my age, Mr. William Shipsey, of San Luis Obispo, with whom I had attended college. He rose, and addressing the court, said: "If your Honors please, I live at San Luis Obispo.  I have a case set for trial there and I must leave the city tonight, in order to reach San Luis Obispo in time for the trial.  Could I pay the clerk my admission fee and have him administer the oath to me before I go?"  Chief Justice Wallace, with great unction, replied, "You can make any arrangement you please, sir, with the clerk."  The justices then rose and went to their chambers.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The next day all of us except Shipsey were in our seats at the appointed hour and Justice Wallace read the list of those who were admitted.  Shipsey was the only one not admitted.  He was a good lawyer and passed an excellent examination, as good as anyone in the class.  I suppose his oath of office, taken before the order admitting him was made, would be valid.  I imagine the court punished him for suggesting so irregular a procedure.  Subsequently, he was again examined and admitted.  He was a respected citizen of San Luis Obispo, practicing law there from that time until a few years ago, when he died.  Judge Widney and myself are the sole survivors of the class.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Before I went to San Francisco for this examination, Eastman had entrusted to me quite a number of matters to attend to.  After my admission I sent him a wire which he long exhibited as an example of laconic information:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Admitted.  Interviewed Mrs. Blank.  Saw McAllister.  Collected Simmons note.  Got eggs.  Bought law books.  Can't find Perkins.  Home Friday."<LB></HI>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>When I went to the office on my return to Los Angeles, my employers surprised me by laying before me a partnership agreement in the following words:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"We, the undersigned, hereby form a partnership for the practice of law at Los Angeles, expenses and earnings to be divided as follows: Anson Brunson, 2/5; James G. Eastman, 2/5; J. A. Graves, 1/5."  We all signed it on the 17th day of January, 1876.  Somewhere among my effects I have that agreement, but I can see it just as plainly as if it were before me.  Before the sun went down I telegraphed my mother the good news.  The partnership was wholly unexpected to me.  I had, however, anticipated a raise in salary.  As soon as the partnership was announced, I was the recipient of many congratulations, and among others a very warm letter from Chief Justice Wallace and Justice McKinistry.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. E. F. Spence, of the Commercial Bank, gave me what proved to be prophetic advice.  He said: "Stick close to the business.  Make friends of all the clients of the firm.  Neither of these men is going to last long.  Keep your skirts free from scandal, and you will come out all right in the end."</P>
095.sgm:<P>While both Brunson and Eastman were dissipated men, not too careful of legal ethics, cynical in the extreme, and had little affection for any human being, they always treated me well.  Their advice, if not their example, to me was always good.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The new firm did an excellent and constantly growing business.  Temple and Workman, owning the Temple &amp; Workman Bank, had just made an assignment for the benefit of their creditors to Daniel Freeman and E. F. Spence.  Our firm were attorneys for the assignees.  This business involved an immense amount of labor, most of which fell on me.  We were also attorneys for Col. R.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ANSON BRUNSON<HSEP>J. A. GRAVES<HSEP>J. G. EASTMAN</P>
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095.sgm:<P>The squatter troubles broke out in what is now Orange County.  The trustees of the Abel Sterns Ranchos, Alfred Robinson and E. B. Polhemus, Mr. James Irvine, owner of the San Joaquin ranch, and Mr. James McFadden, whose lands were raided by the squatters, all employed us in those cases.  We brought a great many suits against the squatters and won all of them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>H. H. Harmon, the court reporter whom I met within the first hour I was in Los Angeles, in a very short time afterwards resigned as reporter and went to farming in Orange County.  He left in our office an old Remington typewriter, one of the first models.  All of the letters on it were alike, a species of semi-capitals.  I went to using it and soon became very proficient on it.  And well for me that I was!  I could never have done with a pen what I accomplished on that old machine.  When I inform my readers that, not counting cases in the justice's court, the federal court and district courts outside of Los Angeles County, the firm of Brunson, Eastman &amp; Graves, between January 17th, 1876, and January first, 1878, appeared either for plaintiff or defendant in one hundred and sixty-eight cases, and that I either drew or copied, on that machine, every complaint or answer, and every other document filed in those cases, you can readily understand that I turned out a vast amount of work.  Then there were contracts innumerable, opinions on titles scribbled off by either Brunson or Eastman, and copied by me, of course always making several copies by the use of carbon sheets.  I prepared dozens of briefs, bills of exceptions, statements on motion for new trial and notices of appeal.  Of course, one hundred and sixty-eight suits, during that length of time, would not be extraordinary today, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>It was a great experience for me.  When I got to practicing for myself, I never had any use for a form book.  There was never an instrument which I had to draw that I could not draw without a form book.  My faculty for doing this astonished Mr. James H. Shankland when he joined Graves &amp; O'Melveny, the firm being Graves, O'Melveny &amp; Shankland.  He used to tell our stenographers to make an extra copy for him of everything I dictated.  He put these copies in scrap-books, each instrument properly indexed as to its nature.  Mr. Jefferson P. Chandler, his son-in-law, and a prominent attorney here, tells me that he has these form books and frequently uses them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I followed Judge Brunson for brevity, leaving out much useless verbiage brought down from the days of English chancery practice, and always tried to express what was to be done briefly, and as clearly as possible.  Of course, the firm made money.  My partners spent their share of it like water.  I confess that I spent more than I should, and yet I saved something besides helping my parents.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>PEOPLE VS. WONG CHEW SHUT</P>
095.sgm:<P>I NEVER had much experience with criminal cases.  One, that of Wong Chew Shut, satisfied me.  He was indicted for killing Yo Hing, a Chinese contractor who furnished the railroad with men and provided the men with provisions.  He was a huge man, not so tall, but thick, heavy, while not fat.  He was built something like, as I imagine from the description of him, was Jean Valjean, in "Les Miserables."  He had extremely long arms, and a voice that fairly rumbled when he talked.  He was killed on a public street in Chinatown.  He had received two strokes from a Chinese cleaver, which was thicker at the point than at the heel.  One cut was in front of the ear and one behind it.  The wider portion of each cut, each of which penetrated the brain, was toward the other.  Mortally stricken, Yo Hing lived long enough to say that Wong Chew Shut struck him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>General Volney E. Howard defended him on his first trial.  He was convicted of murder in the first degree and Judge Sepulveda sentenced him to the state prison for life.  Friends of the defendant came to our firm and paid us a fee of $2,500 to prosecute a motion for a new trial, and agreed that if a new trial was granted they would pay us $2,500 more.  We made the motion on the minutes of the court and, after argument, it was denied.  The court granted us a certificate of probable cause, so that the defendant, pending an appeal, remained in the county jail.  Brunson told me to get up a bill of exceptions.  I applied to the court reporter to write up the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>In a few days the reporter brought in the transcript of the testimony.  I looked it over one morning and had just finished it when Judge Brunson came in.  I told him, rather excitedly, that the testimony did not show that anybody had been killed.  He cautioned me not to "shout it from the house-tops," looked the transcript over, and then told me, in making the bill of exceptions, to insert the transcript bodily, not to digest it.  I did so, then put in the instructions, and Brunson assigned the errors upon which he relied, which were simply that there was not sufficient evidence to justify the verdict and that the court had erred in certain instructions.  I added a stipulation that the bill of exceptions was correct, signed it for our firm, and Brunson took it to Rodney Hudson, who was district attorney.  Hudson laughed at him for wasting good time on that case.  He looked at the bill, saw that it contained Harmon's transcript of the testimony, and certified to its being correct, and thereupon Judge Sepulveda, without reading it, certified the bill to be correct, at the same time laughing at me for wasting my time on such a case.  I told him that the Chinaman's money looked very good to me.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The case came up for hearing at the next term of the supreme court in Sacramento.  Judge Brunson was there and argued the case.  He arose and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"We confidently rely upon a reversal of this case, for the reason that, nowhere in the record, is it shown that anybody was killed by our client or anybody else."</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Chief Justice Wallace turned to Attorney General Joe Hamilton, an old Democratic war-horse from Placerville, and asked him what he had to say to it.  Hamilton had not looked at the record.  He floundered around, turning every page of the bill of exceptions, and said that Judge Brunson must be mistaken.  Judge Wallace, with humor in his eye and in his voice, remarked that if General Hamilton had not had time to examine the record, he would continue the hearing until 2 p.m., to give him an opportunity to do so.  At that time, the Attorney General admitted to the court that Judge Brunson was right, the court took the case under advisement and a few days afterwards rendered a decree reversing the case and remanding it for new trial.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On January 1st, 1878, I had withdrawn from the firm voluntarily, but at the earnest solicitation of both Brunson and Eastman, I agreed to remain with them until the following June, on a salary which I fixed.  There were certain matters upon which they wanted my assistance in closing up.  The Chinamen immediately paid us the additional $2,500.  When a new trial was granted, Brunson &amp; Eastman then made some new arrangements with them, the particulars of which I was not acquainted with.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The District Attorney and Judge Sepulveda were greatly peeved at the reversal of the case.  After the remittitur came down, which, for some reason or other, did not happen until May 6th, 1878, the case was set for trial on May 23rd.  Eastman said we could not, under any circumstances, acquit the Chinaman in the end, and that that was a good case for me to practice on.  On May 23rd, Judge Brunson and I were in court, but the laboring oar fell to me.  I had studied the case and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>On the way to the state prison, the defendant confessed that he was guilty, that he alone had done the killing.  I was right in my theory as to how the blows were struck, as he said that he first hit Yo Hing from behind, Hing whirled around, then he struck him facing him, making the wounds as I have described them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When I told Brunson and Eastman of the confession, Eastman, with a leer at me, said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"When we were fixing fees, my boy, you thought we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Wong Chew Shut, on the showing that he was dying of consumption, was pardoned by Governor George Stoneman on condition that he be sent to his friends in China, which was accordingly done.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Two other cases, those of the People vs. Waller and the People vs. Parker, were both tried by Brunson and Eastman, the first in the latter part of January, 1878, and the latter in March of the same year, and are worth mentioning.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Baker and Jones owned all the land at Santa Monica, down to low-water mark.  People were continually squatting upon this land.  Waller was the keeper of the company's bath-house.  A carpenter, named Fonck, an excitable German, started to erect a bath-house just north of the company's bath-house, for Mrs. Doria Jones, of this city.  Waller, who, at the time, was standing on the porch of the bath-house, ordered Fonck off.  Fonck threatened Waller with his hammer and swore at him vigorously.  A son of Waller's, who was shooting sand-pipers on the beach with a muzzle-loading shotgun, loaded with pieces of lead-pipe, cut into slugs, instead of shot, was passing.  Waller called to him and he passed the gun to his father.  Fonck was still abusing Waller and threatening him with the hammer.  Waller cocked the gun.  He had had a felon on his thumb and had lost the bone in the last joint of it.  As Fonck had quieted down and agreed to remove the timber from the lot, Waller attempted to let down the hammer of the gun.  His thumb, minus the bone in the last joint, would not hold the hammer.  The gun was discharged, hitting Fonck in the ankle and breaking the bone.  His companions carried him up the bluff, to a grocery store.  A sack of meal was cut <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Both Waller and Parker, who was the superintendent of the Santa Monica Land Company which owned the bath-house, were indicted.  Waller was tried, told his story to the jury and was convicted of involuntary manslaughter, and imprisoned for one year in the state prison.  Each of the jurors signed a petition to the court asking leniency for the defendant.  During the trial, and before the grand jury which indicted the defendants, a witness named Suits swore that he had heard Parker tell Waller to keep people off the beach if he had to do it with a shotgun.  After the Waller trial, Eastman persuaded Suits to take a trip to Lower California, so as not to be here when Parker was tried.  The trial was postponed on account of Suits's absence, and Suits did not stay there as long as he was expected to.  Col. Baker and Eastman were indicted for conspiracy.  They both plead guilty and Eastman made an eloquent plea for the exoneration of Baker and took the blame upon himself.  Eastman was fined $1,000 and Col. Baker $600, both of which were paid.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Parker's case was heard on March 1st, 1878.  The newspapers made a great outcry over the matter, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Parker was a quiet, inoffensive, well-educated, Christian gentleman.  He was sentenced to imprisonment in the state prison for two years.  Motion for new trial was made and certificate of probable cause granted.  Parker took to his bed and before the bill of exceptions was prepared died of disgrace and a broken heart.  His wife, shortly after the funeral, was taken ill, and in three weeks she had followed her husband, in "the sleep that knows no waking."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then and there, I vowed never again to have anything to do with a criminal case, and as long as I practiced law I kept that vow.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>DOWNFALL OF JAMES G. EASTMAN.  PRACTICING ON MY OWN ACCOUNT.  EARLY EXPERIENCES.  REMINISCENCES OF J. S. CHAPMAN.  ORGANIZATION OF THE FIRST ABSTRACT COMPANY</P>
095.sgm:<P>THE incidents related in the last chapter completed the ruin, already begun, of Eastman.  On June first, I moved into my own office in the Strelitz Block, a three-story brick building on the east side of Spring Street, nearly opposite Franklin.  After I had furnished it, paid for the California reports, California statutes, the codes and some necessary text-books, I had $1,680 in bank.  I used to calculate how long it would be before I starved to death.  I did not look upon the clients of Brunson, Eastman &amp; Graves as my clients, but as soon as I announced through the papers that I was alone, they began to come to me, and much to my surprise I made $400 in the first month after opening my office.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Shortly afterwards, Brunson &amp; Eastman dissolved.  Eastman kept the old office, then also in the Strelitz Block, and the post-office box.  Brunson formed a partnership with Col. G. Wiley Wells, who had a very excellent influence over him.  Later on he was elected a judge of the superior court of Los Angeles County.  After serving on the bench, with credit to himself and satisfaction to attorneys and clients, he resigned and became the attorney of the Atchison, Topeka &amp; Santa Fe Railway Company.  After some years he left that position, I never knew why, and went to Honolulu, but not meeting with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Eastman formed a new connection with Salisbury Haley, John Robarts and A. J. King.  Things went from bad to worse with him.  Finally, his wife, in self-defense, had to leave him, taking their only daughter with her.  He took up with a Spanish woman who had some means, and who was undoubtedly kind to him until she had to dismiss him.  He became a tramp, wandering from saloon to saloon, where he could always obtain a drink without pay.  Every day, for years, he would apply to me for fifty cents, and he always got it.  I took him to Jacoby Brothers' store and bought him a complete new outfit, including underclothing, shoes, outer garments and an overcoat, at a cost of $110.  He thanked me profusely, took the goods in two packages, and in two separate trips, to a second-hand dealer named Horatio Martine, and sold them for $11.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He finally went to live at the county hospital.  He would walk into town every day and back at night.  He became a loathsome object to look upon, and died in absolute misery.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Two days after the papers announced that I had opened an office for myself, Mr. E. F. Spence, of the Commercial Bank of Los Angeles, called me over to his desk when I chanced to be in the bank.  He congratulated me on being entirely free from my old partners.  He said he had always liked me, admired my way of doing business and that he was going to assist me.  He gave me three mortgages of as many different people, to foreclose.  He also gave me three notes, running to his bank, which he told me to put into judgment.  He said I could not collect any of them at that time.  I knew more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I am here going to relate an incident which shows that no man can afford to neglect things because they are small.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Coming out of the post-office, one morning, I met Mr. Eastman, who had been to his box.  He grunted the compliments of the day and handed me a letter which he had opened and read, saying, "'Tend to that, boy, if you care to, and keep what you get out of it.  I am too busy to look after it."</P>
095.sgm:<P>The letter was from the law firm of Naphtaly, Freidenrich &amp; Ackerman, of San Francisco, to the firm of Brunson, Eastman &amp; Graves.  They evidently did not know of our dissolution.  It was a brief note, written in long-hand by Naphtaly, and enclosed a bill of $39.00 in favor of A. Brandenstein &amp; Company, wholesale tobacconists, against a cigar dealer named I. Cohn.  Naphtaly said he had been very mean about the bill, and if he did not pay it, to attach him.  The post-office was on Spring Street, opposite the old court house, and Cohn had his cigar store in the southwest corner of the Temple Block.  I went over to his stand, presented the bill and demanded payment.  He abused me, Brandenstein &amp; Co., Naphtaly and everybody else, and said he would pay it when he got good and ready.  I said to him very quietly:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Do you owe the money, Mr. Cohn?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>He replied: "Yes, I owe it.  I tell you I will pay it when I get good and ready."  I told him that having admitted to me that he owed the money, he would pay it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I immediately wrote a note to Naphtaly, enclosing him a draft for the full amount of $39.00, telling him the amount was too small to divide fees on.  I enclosed my card, told him our firm had dissolved, and that I would be very glad to attend to anything that he had in Los Angeles.  I had known him very well in San Francisco.  The very next mail brought something else from him, and in one year from the date that I collected the $39 bill, I received fees from business which Naphtaly, Freidenrich &amp; Ackerman sent me, amounting to $9,000.</P>
095.sgm:<P>That $39 bill led up to another peculiar situation.  Mr. J. H. Shankland was, at that time, attorney for the Board of Trade of San Francisco.  One day he met Naphtaly on the street and said to him:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Joe, what do you do with your legal matters in Los Angeles?  I recently wrote to the largest firm there, on quite an important matter, and in about a week I received a reply stating that they had a faint recollection of having received a letter from me, but it had been mislaid, and asking what it was."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Buzz Graves," replied Naphtaly.  "Send anything you have there to Buzz Graves, and when you write him a letter here, he will be attending to it on the other end of the line."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I was much surprised to receive a letter from Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>That incident brought to me all of the San Francisco Board of Trade business, and after I organized our local Board of Trade here, the two institutions worked in harmony together, and for years I, and the firms I was subsequently associated with, controlled all of the legal commercial business of Los Angeles.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I had already made up my mind that there was no money, and not much glory, in trying cases, and had determined to devote myself to commercial and real estate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>To illustrate: While Mr. J.S. Chapman and I were partners, a mercantile firm, a client of ours, found itself in a most complicated situation, with a large amount of money involved.  One of the parties came to my house, one evening, and I went over the matter thoroughly with him, and advised his firm to pursue a certain course.  If my advice had been wrong, the firm would have lost $100,000.  Without informing Mr. Chapman of my advice to our client to do certain things, I stated the case to him and told him what I thought about it, and asked him what he thought our client should do.  He said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Well, I don't know.  They are on dangerous ground.  I will look it up and let you know."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Brunson &amp; Wells, whose offices were in the Baker Block, had a very complete library.  Chapman buried himself in it for three days.  He then came to me with several pages of notes, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"You were right in your opinion of what--(naming our client) should do.  You better tell them to act quickly."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I laughed and replied, "I had them do that, before I put the proposition up to you.  I simply wanted to know if you agreed with me."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"My God, boy," he replied, "you will break us wide open, some day!"  But I never did.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I early learned in my legal career, from J.G. Eastman, that if a crisis arose, and there was going to be legal trouble, one should take the initiative, and hit his opponent quickly, and as hard as he knew how.  I always found that that policy paid.</P>
095.sgm:<P>My business continued to grow.  Mr. Chapman came to Los Angeles in the summer of 1879.  In January, 1878, I went to Sacramento to take the deposition of a man named Morgan, who was in the legislature, and who was a justice of the peace at Santa Monica, before whom the preliminary examination of Waller, prosecuted, as hereinbefore related, for killing Fonck, was heard.  After taking the deposition I went to the supreme court, which was in session.  The justices were just going on the bench.  Justice Wallace, seeing me, shook hands and told me to be there at 12 o'clock and go to lunch with him.  I remained for a time, then went out, and returned to the court room at about half-past eleven.  When I came in, a large man, of rather uncouth appearance, was addressing the court, and I was very much attracted by what he said, the manner in which he said it and the directness with which he stated his legal propositions.  He was arguing a water case from one of the northern counties.  After he had finished, counsel on the other side replied, and in a very few, well-chosen words, Chapman simply demolished his argument.  The case was submitted, the court adjourned, and as the justices came off the bench I joined Justice Wallace and we went to lunch.  As we left the court house, he said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Did you hear that man arguing that case, just before recess?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him I did.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He then said: "His name is Chapman.  He is from Lassen County, and mark my words, he is one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>In June, 1879, I had had my dinner at the St. Charles Hotel, one hot evening, and when I came out I saw a man sitting in a chair near the edge of the sidewalk, hands deep in his pockets, with a very dejected appearance, and chewing tobacco vigorously.  I knew I had seen him somewhere, and I walked up and down two or three times and then it came to me that that was the man I had heard in January, the year before, arguing a water case in the supreme court at Sacramento.  So I pulled up a chair and spoke to him, saying, "Isn't your name Chapman?"  He said it was.  Then I went on to state that I had heard him arguing a water case in the supreme court at the time above stated.  He always spoke very slowly, almost with a drawl, and his reply was, "Very likely."  I asked him if he had come to Los Angeles on a visit, or to stay.  He answered, "I have come to try to stay."</P>
095.sgm:<P>After talking a few minutes I asked him if he played cribbage.  He said, "I play at it."  I then asked him to come up to my room with me and we would have a game of cribbage.  He said, "All right," and we went to my room, played cribbage for a couple of hours (and, by the way, he was a good player), and as he went to depart I asked him where he was located.  He said he had an office near that of John R. McConnell in the Temple Block.  I told him where my office was, and said that if he would come to see me in the morning I thought I could be of assistance to him.  I was worked to death, and I turned over some matters to him, which he attended to very promptly and very faithfully.  I found him so efficient and so grateful that I proposed a partnership to him.  He then told me that he had come to Los Angeles at the instance of his brother-in-law and partner, Mr. J. W. Hendrick, to spy out the land.  That since he had come <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>We left the matter in abeyance, he assisting me in several matters.  Hendrick was elected, and shortly after, January 1st, 1880, the firm of Graves &amp; Chapman was organized.  During the time I was practicing alone, from June 1st, 1878, to January 1st, 1880, excluding justice's court, federal court and some cases outside of Los Angeles County, I brought or defended eighty-six cases, of all kinds and descriptions, which I think was quite a record considering the time I had been in the business and the paucity of the population.  I had neither clerk nor stenographer.  I did all of my work, drawing pleadings, contracts and other documents, on that old typewriter that Harmon had given me, and my correspondence with a pen, taking copies in an old-fashioned copy-book.  I ran across it the other day, and I was astounded at the number of letters that I wrote during that time and more astounded that my hand was legible.  While examining that book I made a curious discovery.  In a chest in which it is located, in my attic, are five or six of my personal letter-press copy-books, used during the existence of the firms of Graves &amp; Chapman, Graves &amp; O'Melveny and Graves, O'Melveny and Shankland, in which letters written on the typewriter had been copied.  In those days we used a green typewriter ribbon.  I examined book after book, and the only thing left on any of the letters was the signature.  Every particle of the typewritten matter, with the green typewriter ribbon, had disappeared.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding my business had been exceedingly good in 1879, 1880 was a very bad year for us.  The commercial business had all been cleaned up.  Every merchandise business in Los Angeles that had been in distress had been liquidated, and in 1880, we did not take in much more money than I alone took in during 1879, but our business grew very rapidly from that time on.  I found Mr. Chapman a very able lawyer and a splendid man to work with.  The only objection I could possibly raise to his method was his extreme technicality.  He would, as I thought, waste time on things that did not amount to anything, but sometimes they won out.  For instance--A. B. Hotchkiss was district attorney of San Diego County.  It was rumored that he had accepted a bribe of $300 to dismiss a tax case pending against Governor John G. Downey and Louis Phillips, who then owned the Warners Ranch.  Dismissal of the suit defeated the action, because the statute of limitations had run and a new action could not be brought.  In a spasm of virtue, the San Diego Bar Association met and determined to take proceedings to disbar Hotchkiss.  At the meeting, Major Chase, A. M. Luce and another attorney were appointed to bring the proceeding.  Wallace Leech, one of the ablest lawyers in San Diego, was at the meeting, and he told the assemblage that, having appointed somebody to prosecute Hotchkiss, they had to appoint somebody to defend him.  The Bar Association refused to do so.  Then Leech said, "I will defend him."  Chase and Leech were partners, so the rather anomalous condition arose of one partner prosecuting and one defending poor Hotchkiss.  Another singular thing about it was that, a few days before, Hotchkiss and Leech had had a fight in court and were not on speaking terms.  A trial was had and Hotchkiss was disbarred.  Leech appealed, and one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Boys (speaking to Chapman and myself), you have got to help me out.  I am going to reverse this case or break a leg trying to."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I took the transcript, which was very short, ran over it hurriedly, told him I did not see much chance of reversal, and he said: "Let Chapman examine it."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Chapman was busy and he told Leech to give it to him and he would take it home that night, which he did.  Next morning he came in, Leech was there, and he said to him:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I have a ray of hope.  The statute providing for the disbarment of an attorney provides that the complaint filed against him must be verified before a notary public.  The complaint in this case was verified before a United States Commissioner."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I did not notice it; probably would never have done so.  Leech, who was vitally interested, had not noticed it, but, as I have stated, Chapman was always looking for technicalities.  We filed a brief, raising that point, and the supreme court reversed the case because the complaint had not been properly verified, but by the time the <HI REND="italics">remittitur</HI>
095.sgm:<P>Chapman was a most industrious man.  He was perfectly willing to try cases.  I was perfectly willing to let him, as I made more money in the office than he did trying cases.  Nevertheless, we divided our fees equally.  Hendrick's term of office either expired or he resigned, and he came to Los Angeles.  I was perfectly willing to take him into the firm, on a basis of two-fifths to myself, two-fifths to Chapman and one-fifth to Hendrick.  This did not suit Hendrick, nor did he want to be the third member of the firm.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>In the five years Graves and Chapman were together, we brought or defended two hundred and forty-four actions, not including justice's court, or federal court cases, or cases outside of Los Angeles County.  Mr. Chapman was broken-hearted over the fact that it was necessary for us to dissolve.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I then tendered a partnership to Mr. Henry W. O'Melveny, who was a deputy district attorney under Stephen M. White.  He accepted.  All of my old business followed me, including the business of the Board of Trade which Chapman and I had incorporated in March, 1883.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Early in our partnership, Graves &amp; O'Melveny incorporated the Metropolitan Building &amp; Loan Association of Southern California, which was the first institution of its kind in Southern California.  Just then it became the fashion for mercantile firms to incorporate.  We drew hundreds of such incorporation papers and were attorneys for the new corporations.  Then the great real estate boom came on.  In addition to all of our other work, we became the leading authorities on titles.  I can say, without egotism, that from 1885 to 1890, we examined more abstracts of title than all the lawyers of Los Angeles put together.  We would carry them home with us and work on them at night, and I remember one instance, in 1888, which I will never forget.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I was going into my gate at home, weary and distressed, by no means well, when a man hailed me, running from Spring Street towards Broadway.  He had an abstract under his arm.  He said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Graves, I want an opinion on this by nine o'clock tomorrow morning."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him, "You will not get it from me."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He reached into his pocket, pulled out a certified check for $1,000, payable to himself, and said:</P>
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095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"I will give you this thousand dollars if you will do it for me, and it will be a great accommodation."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I took the abstract and saw that I was familiar with the base title, and would only have to run it from a certain time after satisfying myself that everything was in it relating to the base title.  The temptation was too great, and I yielded.  He said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Let me into your house and I will endorse you this check," which he did.  By half-past eleven I had finished the abstract and had written out an opinion on it, which I intended to have copied in the morning.  I went to bed, but not to sleep.  I began to review the situation, and I said to myself:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"If this thing goes on, you will be leaving your wife and your three children without anybody to take care of them, before long."</P>
095.sgm:<P>We already owned our home at San Gabriel.  Finally I dropped off to sleep, and when I awoke in the morning, I said to Mrs. Graves:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Let's build a house on the ranch and get out of here.  If we don't, I will be a dead man, shortly."</P>
095.sgm:<P>She endorsed the proposition immediately.  She wanted to get the children out of town.  She immediately prepared plans for the house, and the architect who reviewed them never altered them in any particular.  He simply prepared the working details.  We were going to the ranch for the summer, anyhow, and we moved out a little sooner, bag and baggage, taking all our furniture to the cottage then on the property.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The construction of the house we are now living in was begun in April, 1888, and was finished on the 12th day of September of the same year.  We have lived in it ever since, and, in fact, have never occupied but two houses, the one at Third and Broadway, in Los Angeles, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HOME PLACE IN WHICH WE HAVE LIVED SINCE SEPT., 1888</P>
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095.sgm:<P>O'Melveny and I were responsible for the present certificates of title issued by the title companies here.  It came about in the following manner:</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Downey Harvey, Mr. L. T. Garnsey and others bought the Rancho Providencia from Dr. Burbank, formed the Providencia Land, Water &amp; Development Company, and subdivided the property.  We examined the abstract and gave them an opinion on it, and charged them a reasonable fee.  Garnsey was an Eastern man and he thought the fee was large, but Downey and his companions laughed him out of that idea, telling him that if they had not been regular clients of ours and good friends of the firm the fee would have been twice as big.  Then Garnsey said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"This opinion is all right, but we ought to have something we could give to everyone who buys a lot."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him, all right, that I would fix that for him, and we had opinions printed in which we certified that we had examined the abstract of title made by Judson, Gillette &amp; Gibson, certified at a certain time, and that, at the time it was certified, we found the title to Lot Blank, of Block Blank, of the lands of the Providencia Land, Water &amp; Development Company, according to map, giving book and page of its record, vested, at the date of said abstract, in the said Providencia Land, Water &amp; Development Company, free and clear of all encumbrances.  We signed each one of these and filled the number of each lot and block into the certificates, so that, as they sold a lot, they could deliver one to the purchaser.  A short time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Graves, what are you trying to do to the abstract business?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I replied: "Just what we did there ought to be done by a corporation formed to search titles and make abstracts of title and give opinions thereon.  Let's do it."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He said, "All right."  Within a week we had formed the Abstract &amp; Title Insurance Company, with $100,000 capital, all of which was paid in.  We took over the business of Judson, Gillette &amp; Gibson.  I was president of the company and Gibson was secretary of it.  Inside of another week we were issuing certificates of title.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The lawyers of Los Angeles welcomed the innovation.  None of them liked to examine abstracts.  The new company prospered.  Subsequently it was amalgamated with the Los Angeles Abstract Company into the Title Insurance &amp; Trust Company, which is now the largest institution of its kind west of the Mississippi River, with assets of over $9,000,000.  It has prospered amazingly.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We were attorneys for the company and continued to examine abstracts for it.  The information contained in Chapter XVII, as to the Mexican grants of Los Angeles County, except in four or five instances, I obtained from a commonplace book in that old chest in my attic.  When I would examine an abstract of one of these grants, for an abstract company, so that they could have our opinion on a starting point, I made notes in this commonplace book, and after concluding the examination I would note the name of the grant, the name of the confirmee, to whom patented, the number of acres and the date of the patent, so that the information in Chapter XVII was ready-made when I wanted to use it.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>MY MARRIAGE.  FIRST HOME, THIRD AND BROADWAY.  REMOVAL TO SAN GABRIEL VALLEY</P>
095.sgm:<P>AS STATED in a previous chapter, I was very happily married, on the 23rd day of October, 1875, to Miss Alice H. Griffith, the daughter of J. M. Griffith and Sarah A. Griffith, old-time residents of Los Angeles.  They had come here from Sacramento.  Mr. Griffith had been associated with Huntington, Hopkins and Stanford, in Sacramento, and when they organized the Central Pacific Railroad Company, they wanted him to go in with them.  He was not a man of great means at that time, nor were any of the rest of them, and he thought the project a visionary one, and declined their offer.  Otherwise, it would have probably been the Big Five, instead of the Big Four, railroad men of California.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Griffith came to Los Angeles and joined his forces with his brother-in-law, Mr. John T. Tomlinson, and, in 1879, was conducting a very large mill and lumber business here.  When I was married, I actually did not have time to take a wedding trip.  Mr. Griffith had bought for his daughter a lot at the northeast corner of Third and Broadway, for $1,800.  He had built upon this a very nice house which cost him $11,000, and furnished it.  We were married, with a few friends present, at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Griffith, situated on the west side of Broadway, a short distance below Second Street.  After our guests departed Mr. and Mrs. Griffith took us over to our new home, and in leaving us Mr. Griffith said to me:</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"Now, Graves, while I have given this house and lot to Alice, I want you to feel that it is your home as much as it is hers."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He was a noble old character, rather bluff in his ways, the soul of honor and highly respected.  He treated all of his six children most generously.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Not to boast, but simply to show you what the advance in properties was, shortly after we were settled in our new ranch home, we sold the house off from this lot to Eugene Germain, for $2,500, and he moved it to Tenth and Hill streets and converted it, by building onto it, into the Hotel Germain.  We rented the lot to the Los Angeles Sewer Company for quite a little income and, in 1900, sold the property, which had cost $1,800 in 1879, for $130,000, to S. K. Rindge, receiving pay for it in government bonds, then quoted at $128, and inside of thirty days I sold the bonds at $138, giving us quite a profit.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Marriage, that is, the financial end of it, the responsibility of caring for a family, scared me.  In May, 1879, five months before the ceremony, I told Mr. Spence, at the Commercial Bank of Los Angeles, that I was to be married in the fall and I wanted to accumulate a little nest-egg for household expenses.  He suggested that I open an account in the name of "Mrs. J. A. Graves."  I did so, depositing in it money, from time to time.  When I was married there was $1,800 in that account.  I turned the bank-book over to my wife, and it was of material assistance to us.  It must be remembered that in 1879, $1,800 would go about five times as far as the same amount of money would today.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Although Mrs. Graves had lived in luxury and with an abundance of spending money, she proved to be a most economical and prudent housewife, and we got <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<illus entity="a0095-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MRS. J. A. GRAVES AT THE AGE OF THIRTY-FIVE</P>
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095.sgm:<P>Mr. Griffith and his wife owned thirty acres of land in the San Gabriel Valley.  In 1882, I contracted to buy it from them for $15,000.  I paid $5,000 down on it and the remainder was to be paid at a deferred period.  There was a comfortable California house on the place, barns and outhouses, and some six and one-half acres of oranges, some lemon and lime trees and deciduous fruit trees.  We spent our summers there until we built our present home on the ranch, in 1888.  The following Christmas, after I had entered into this agreement with Mr. and Mrs. Griffith, they made a gift of the place, subject to my contract of purchase, to Mrs. Graves.  I cancelled my contract, thus vesting the property in her.  I have added to it, by purchase, enough land to make fifty acres, after having given the Pacific Electric Railway Company three acres for right of way and some five acres which we gave to our two daughters.</P>
095.sgm:<P>While we were building the new home there were at least twenty-five men on the job.  They put up two immense tents, near our barn, and lived there while the work was going on.  They do not build houses today as they did then.  The ceilings on the lower floor are 13 feet high and on the upper floor 11 feet high.  Whenever I enter a modern house I feel as if I were going to strike my head on the ceiling, and I rejoice that our house is old-fashioned.  We had our fortieth Christmas dinner in that house, last Christmas.  The house is as good today as when it was built.  The lower floors are finished in oak, and it would be impossible today to get oak of the same quality as we used in it.  You cannot get the point of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Paying for it involved me in some trouble.  Prior to beginning to build, I had sold a piece of property for $35,000, received $5,000 down and the balance was to be paid in sixty days.  The purchaser forfeited his $5,000 and refused to carry out the bargain.  This left me short of money.  I always hated debt, and I believe I have paid as little interest as any man in Los Angeles who has anything.  I went to Mr. Goodwin, of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank, where I was maintaining one of my bank accounts, and asked him if I could borrow $20,000 on the note of myself and my wife.  I went to the Farmers &amp; Merchants knowing that, at the time, it was stronger in resources than the Commercial Bank, where I also maintained an account, although I have no doubt I could have borrowed the money there had I asked for it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Goodwin said: "You can have all the money you want on your own note."  That lifted a load from my mind, and in due time I was out of debt.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When we moved into our Alhambra home, our eldest child was seven years old.  Both of our daughters and our eldest son were born at Third and Broadway.  Two of our sons, Jack and Francis, were born on the ranch.  All of our children loved our home, and the two boys, Selwyn and Jack, when they were little fellows, used to say, "If you ever sell this property, sell us with it."  The country then was not settled anything like it is today, and they had ample room and breathing space.  All of our children grew up at our present home and our daughters were married from it.  We buried our sons, Selwyn and Jack, from it.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>PARTNERSHIP WITH H. W. O'MELVENY.  FIRM OF GRAVES, O'MELVENY &amp; SHANKLAND RECEIVER BEAR VALLEY IRRIGATION DISTRICT.  DISSOLUTION OF FIRM JANUARY 1, 1904</P>
095.sgm:<P>NO TWO MEN were ever in business together who got along more harmoniously than did myself and Mr. H. W. O'Melveny.  He was young, had a good legal mind, was industrious and always willing to do his part and more.  He was of a genial disposition and made friends rapidly.  From 1885, the time we formed our partnership, until 1890, we were attorneys for every bank in the city except two, one of which was the Los Angeles National, organized by Major Bonebrake, for which Senator Frank P. Flint was the attorney, and the other, the University Bank, organized by Judge Widney, who, I think, acted as his own attorney.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When the great boom of 1884-5 broke, we had a tremendous amount of business from the banks, in the way of foreclosures and attachments.  The business of the Board of Trade which I had incorporated while the firm of Graves &amp; Chapman was in existence, in March, 1883, remained with our firm.  This gave us an immense amount of detail work which, added to the foreclosures which almost swamped us, and the real estate business, including the probate matters, reduced us to a condition where it was necessary for us to have assistance.  We looked the field over and there was no one in Los Angeles that we would want in our firm who was not almost as busy as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"What do you think of Shankland?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Fine," he replied; "write to him and see if he will come."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I was writing him at the time on a business matter.  I added a postscript, telling him the amount of business we were doing, and that we would be glad to have him unite his fortunes with ours as an equal partner.  I told him that we needed assistance immediately, and if he was going to come he must make up his mind shortly.  In a few days we received a telegram from him, saying, "I am coming."  On April 10th, 1888, he walked into the office and immediately took up a laboring oar.  We turned over to him the commercial business of the firm.  He was the most grateful man I ever saw.  I handled the funds of the business.  He had been getting $4,000 a year as attorney for the Board of Trade in San Francisco.  On the first of each month I drew checks to each member of the firm, for his share of the earnings for the preceding month.  When I would give Mr. Shanklnad his check, he would always say, "Too much, too much!  This cannot last."  But it did last.  We did an immense business.  We had monthly retainers in a very large amount from excellent clients.  Mr. Shankland told me that when he came to Los Angeles he had $3,000 in money besides his household goods, and he left an estate, upon his death, on February 23, 1923, of over $600,000, most of which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>J. A. GRAVES<HSEP>H. W. O'MELVENY<HSEP>J. H. SHANKLAND</P>
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095.sgm:<P>In about the year 1894, Judge E. M. Ross, then Judge of the United States District Court for this district, appointed Mr. A. P. Maginnis and myself receivers of the properties of the Bear Valley Irrigation Company in San Bernardino County.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In making the appointment, Judge Ross said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I feel that while the creditors need protection, there must be some person for the protection of the Court, which can only be secured by the appointment of a person whom I know.  I have long been acquainted with Mr. Graves.  He is well-known in this community as a man of high integrity, in whom complete confidence can be reposed."  A compliment which I then, and ever since, have highly appreciated.</P>
095.sgm:<P>This withdrew me from the office for some little time.  I went to Redlands, dug deeply into the affairs of the bankrupt concern, made up a full report of its assets and liabilities and laid it before the court.  There were quite a number of English investors interested in the concern.  One F. E. Brown, a surveyor, built the first dam at Bear Valley.  He and others owned considerable property at Redlands.  To realize a high price for their land they gave the land water-rights under the Bear Valley system, and fixed a price for the water which would not pay the zanjero fees for delivering it.  Prior to doing this, they had mortgaged all of the property, including water rights and dam in Bear Valley, to a savings bank in Cleveland, Ohio.  The owners of the property were visionary.  They bought lands on contracts in Perris Valley, built a number of brick buildings at Moreno, at the eastern end of Perris Valley or northern end of Moreno Valley, connected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>After getting the situation thoroughly in my mind, I got those interested, including representatives of the English investors, together, and told them there was but one thing to do, and that was to foreclose the Cleveland mortgage, so as to wipe out the Redlands water rights.  This they did, built a new dam, charged the Redlands people a reasonable rate for water, and now have a paying proposition.  But even with a new dam, they have no water for the Moreno system.  I understand that the people of that valley have recently bought some water-bearing lands east of Redlands, drilled wells, have either leased or acquired the conduit built by the old Bear Valley company, and are now taking quite a body of water through that conduit into Moreno Valley.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I never spent as much hard labor on anything that was as unsatisfactory as the Bear Valley system proved to be.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Illustrating the amount of business that Graves &amp; O'Melveny and Graves, O'Melveny &amp; Shankland did, between January 1st, 1882, and April 10th, 1888, Graves &amp; O'Melveny brought or defended two hundred and twenty cases, and from April 10, 1888, to January 1, 1904, Graves, O'Melveny &amp; Shankland brought or defended ten hundred and eighty cases.  In making the above calculation, cases in justice courts, federal courts and cases in superior courts outside of Los Angeles County were not included.  I am satisfied that the federal court <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>For some years, prior to 1903, I had been a stockholder in and a vice-president of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank of Los Angeles.  In February, 1903, the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank was converted into the Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank, and in June of that year I took charge of it as vice-president and general manager.  I have often been asked why I abandoned the law and took up banking.  In the first place, I had considerable money invested in the bank, a crisis had arisen where some one had to take hold of it, and my interest was large enough to justify my doing so.  In the next place, I had been a slave at the law for twenty-nine years, and I thought, and as it turned out, properly so, that banking would be easier work than the drudgery of law practice.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On Juanuary 1st, 1904, the firm of Graves, O'Melveny &amp; Shankland dissolved, I leaving the practice, Mr. O'Melveny and Mr. Shankland each opening an office for himself.  Mr. Shankland was then well along in years and did not ask for more business than would comfortably occupy his time.  Mr. O'Melveny has made a wonderful success at the bar.  He is today at the head of a very responsible firm, and, to my mind, has the best-paying law practice in Los Angeles.  He and I parted with great regret, and I do not think I will be violating any confidence in here printing a letter which he wrote to me at about the time of our dissolution.  No human being has seen it from that day to this.  My response to it expressed as high regard for him as his letter did for me.  It ran as follows:</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"My Dear Buzz:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"In sending you a reminder of Xmas days, I wish to say it is but an exponent of my great regard for you.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I thought sometimes of having a grand blowout at the Club to mark in its way the termination of our long partnership, but I am sure that I could never control myself in public and it seems to me that the feelings it engenders are best kept in privacy.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"You ought to know, and do know, that in all the long years of our association I have always looked upon you with absolute confidence in your honesty, manliness and strength.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"We unconsciously affect each other.  I know I am a better man from the nineteen years of our partnership, through you.  It is a record we can both be rightfully proud of.  Nothing in the future can take its place with me.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I couldn't talk this over with you if I tried, and we neither of us wish to.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Although in the future we may not divide moneys, I hope that in the friendship of ourselves and families we may remain as partners still.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Yours sincerely,</P>
095.sgm:<P>"H. W. O'MELVENY."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I am very proud of the fact that, when the firm of Graves, O'Melveny &amp; Shankland dissolved, it had the respect and confidence of the people of Los Angeles.  I am still prouder of the fact that the firm never lost a client from any act of omission, or default, done or suffered by it, or any member thereof.  Clients who came to me as far back as 1879, were still our clients in 1904.  Parents died, we did the legal work in administering their estates, and their children remained our clients.  We never had a dispute with a client over a fee.  We did not charge excessive fees, but we had a constant stream of them pouring into the office.  We educated our clients to pay when services were rendered.  They did so cheerfully.  We never had any large amount of unpaid fees standing upon our books.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVIII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>AMUSING INCIDENTS OF LAW PRACTICE</P>
095.sgm:<P>SOME amusing things will occur in the course of years of legal practice.  When Mr. Chapman and I were together, Mr. I. W. Hellman sent Mr. Walter Raymond's father, Mr. Emmons Raymond, to us.  He was then eighty-one years old, a typical Boston merchant, physically vigorous and mentally bright and alert.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Walter Raymond and a man named Gluck, who was associated with him in the passenger excursion business, began the erection of the Raymond Hotel.  Walter Raymond's father had agreed to finance the building of the hotel.  Evidently alarmed at the financial proportions the project was assuming, he came out to look it over.  When he came to me, he had been over the situation.  He immediately saw that Gluck was unable to contribute anything towards the building and that the architect engaged by them was too extravagant for his economical Yankee ideas.  The architect's name was Littlefield.  He came from Colorado.  Mr. Raymond, Sr., declared that he had put in a foundation for a frame building, sufficient to sustain a twenty-story brick building.  That he had built cement piers, six feet square, to sustain the iron piers of an ordinary veranda.  He brought me the contract, signed by Raymond and Gluck, with Littlefield, and said he wanted me to draw a notice discharging him.  I read the contract, which was iron-clad in Littlefield's favor.  After perusing it, I told Mr. Raymond the shoe was on the other foot; that, under the contract, Littlefield could discharge Raymond and Gluck, but they could not discharge him.  The old gentleman said:</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"Then, not a dollar of my money goes into the project until both Gluck and Littlefield are off of the job."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Raymond and Gluck owed a large amount of money for material bought and contracted to be delivered.  Of course, the work could not proceed without funds.  After consultation between my firm, Raymond and Gluck, and the elder Mr. Raymond, it was arranged that I should go out to the hotel the next day, which was Saturday, pay off the men and tell them work was suspended.  I drove my horse "Bummer" out there.  An accountant accompanied me with the pay-roll.  We got there just before quitting time, with sufficient money to meet the pay of all employes.  I had a foreman call the men together.  I made them a little talk, telling them that on account of the lack of funds work would be suspended and they need not return Monday.  I thought for a time that they would mob me, but I reasoned with them and they finally accepted their week's pay, each man receipting for it, and then departed.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The elder Mr. Raymond, after arranging with Mr. I. W. Hellman, of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank, to advance us sufficient money, on our drafts on him, to take care of the wreck, left for Boston.  Littlefield, the architect, was wild, and threatened all kinds of things.  I went back to the hotel Monday morning, employed some laborers to put things into shape, house the cement lying out in sacks, and gather up lumber scattered all over the place, into compact piles.  The Southern Pacific branch line from Shorb Station to Pasadena should have been completed to the Raymond site, but owing to lack of ties and rails, it was only completed to the San Gabriel winery.  There were many cars of lumber standing on the track from Shorb Station to the winery, and more coming in every day.  The line was completely blocked, so that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>I employed Tom Banbury, a contractor of Pasadena, who had graded down the Raymond hill, making a site for the hotel, to haul all of that lumber up to the hotel site, pile it into neat piles, cover it with rough lumber, and weight down the covering with rocks and heavy pieces of old iron, to prevent the lumber from being warped out of shape.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Numerous attachments were filed against Raymond and Gluck.  The creditors levied upon all the material in sight, including the lumber.  Then several creditors filed a petition in insolvency, which, in the end, dissolved all attachments levied.  To make a long story short, Gluck was soon only too glad to relinquish his rights.  At the end of some four months, Littlefield also faded from the picture, for some consideration paid him by Mr. Walter Raymond.  We then wired the elder Mr. Raymond, in Boston, the situation.  He immediately came back, bringing his family with him, built a comfortable cottage near the hotel site, paid all the debts of the concern, amounting to a very large sum of money, and proceeded to finish the hotel.  He was on the job every day until it was ready for occupancy.</P>
095.sgm:<P>One day, when the frame of the building was up, roofed in, weather-boarding in place, and lathing and plastering were in progress, he and I were inspecting the work.  Being on top of a hill, it was very windy.  Draughts swept through the building and up the elevator shafts at a great rate.  I said to Mr. Raymond, "When this thing burns up, I want the ashes for my orange orchard," which was but a mile away.  I have been a long time leading up to the joke in this story, but here it is.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On Easter Sunday, the 14th day of April, 1895, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"You can have the ashes."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He had remembered my remark during all these years.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I looked the wreck over, but the ashes were so mixed with debris and brick from fallen chimneys, that I concluded it would not pay to remove them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1904, I was in Montreal.  I wandered into a building in which some one told me courts were held.  I entered a court room, which proved to be a municipal court.  A motley mob sat outside of the railing within which attorneys sat.  A good-looking, black-bearded young man was on the bench.  I went to the gate leading into the inner circle and asked the bailiff if I might sit inside.  He told me I could, but added, "Bow to the judge before you enter, and when you leave."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I did so, the judge bowed to me, and I went inside and took my seat.  He held his court in English or French as the prisoner chose.  About one-half of them demanded an examination in French, and the other half in English.  The court dispatched business rapidly.  His last case was that of a rather pretty girl of the streets, who chose English procedure, though she spoke English brokenly and with a decided French accent.  Two policemen had arrested her for being quite drunk on a public street and they both testified that she was acting very indecently.  The judge said to her:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"What have you to say to this, Louise?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>In the queerest French-English dialect, which it is impossible to put on paper, she replied:</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"As to being drunk I plead guilty.  As to an indecency, nevaire!"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Two pounds or ten days was the sentence.  The judge then adjourned the court.  When I reached the gate and turned to bow to him, he beckoned to me to come to him.  He descended from the bench and extended his hand to me, saying:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I see that you are a stranger here and from your appearance I judge that you are an attorney."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him that I was, and that I came from Los Angeles, California.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Oh, ho," he said, "a great place.  In my youth I, with my parents, was at the Raymond Hotel when it was destroyed by fire.  We lost most of our clothing and baggage."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He took me to his chambers and we had quite a chat.  He was a loyal Canadian and warmly espoused her laws and institutions.  I spent a pleasant hour with him.  He invited me and my wife to come to his house to dinner, that evening, but we were leaving for Quebec by an afternoon train and I was obliged to decline his invitation.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIX</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>LEARNING FROM A CLIENT.  SUNDRY EXPERIENCES</P>
095.sgm:<P>AN ATTORNEY sometimes learns from his clients.  Back in the '80's, I had a client who owned several hundred acres of land in one of our large Mexican grants besides considerable Los Angeles city property.  He removed to Santa Cruz and died there.  The executor of his will was a very wealthy and prominent man there.  Our firm looked after the Los Angeles interest of the estate.  The executor was a thorough business man, and he was unable to find any evidence of title to the grant lands.  He requested me to have an abstract made and see if the title was in good condition.  I ordered an abstract and, when it came to the office, examined it and found the title perfect except that the United States patent for the land had never been recorded in Los Angeles County.  Hoffman's report showed that it had been issued.  I wrote to the General Land Office at Washington, asking about the patent.  They replied that the patent had been lying there for years, but that there was a $9,000 bill due the Surveyor General's office, for survey, which would have to be paid before the patent could be delivered.  I wrote to the executor telling him about this, and asking if I should interview the other owners of the grant (of whom there were many), and see if they would proportionately contribute towards the payment of the $9,000 bill, so that the patent could be delivered.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The statute providing for surveys of these Mexican grants by the United States Surveyor General's office, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>During the partnership of Graves &amp; O'Melveny, one of our clients suffered a loss of $40,000 through the embezzlement of its funds by its general manager.  He was in sole charge of the business.  Its owners lived in San Francisco and were seldom here.  The annual turn-over was very large and profits enormous.  The general manager received an excellent salary and stood well in the community.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Out of sympathy for him, and in consideration of his long service, he was not prosecuted.  He made partial restitution and, of course, lost his situation, and his standing in the mercantile world.  He selected me as the victim to whom he could pour out his woes.  I never had any sympathy for an evil-doer, especially one who betrays a trust imposed in him.  He pretended to me to be deeply religious, and in former days had frequently upbraided me for my ungodliness.  I had always thought his religion was not even skin-deep.  He would tell me he never could account for his yielding to the temptation of robbing his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Now, Graves, tell me what more I could have done."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I answered him that I did not know what more he could have done, unless "he had prayed less and stolen more."  He never bothered me again.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Among our old-time good customers was the firm of Balfour, Guthrie &amp; Company, of San Francisco.  Mr. Robert Balfour, the head of the firm, was as fine a man to deal with as I ever met, and he had a sense of humor and highly appreciated a good joke.</P>
095.sgm:<P>His firm had acquired, before they came to us, quite a body of land at Cabazon, in Riverside County.  I used to josh him about it.  When he asked me what it was good for, I told him it would make a fine rattlesnake farm.  It is at the lower end of the valley, beyond Banning, just before you turn off to go to Palm Springs.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In the early summer the papers used to give dispatches from various towns, giving the state of the thermometer.  For instance, it would say, yesterday the thermometer stood at so many degrees at Tucson, so many degrees at Fresno, Sacramento and different places in the state.  Just after a hot spell, when a number of these dispatches had appeared in the papers, I received a telegram from Mr. Balfour, asking, "How hot was it yesterday at Cabazon?"  I knew he meant it as a joke, so, without making an inquiry, I wired back, "One hundred and thirty-nine in the water-cooler."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Balfour, Guthrie &amp; Company had a mortgage on 100 acres of very beautiful land belonging to Joe Woodworth, on the east side of the Los Angeles River, about where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Alarming reports as to Woodworth property.  Wire particulars."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I promptly answered it as follows:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Nothing left but the mortgage."</P>
095.sgm:<P>However, Joe Woodworth was an honest man and a good sport.  He came into our office and made a mortgage upon additional properties and, in the end, the firm lost nothing by the flood.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XL</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>HOW MY ACQUAINTANCESHIP WITH I. W. HELLMAN BEGAN</P>
095.sgm:<P>IT IS SINGULAR how things happen in this world.  When I came to Los Angeles, there was in progress some very bitter litigation between Mr. I. W. Hellman, who became president of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank, in 1875, and ex-Governor John G. Downey, its former president.  Brunson, Eastman &amp; Graves represented Downey, and we made as strong a fight in the matter as we knew how.  As a result, Mr. Hellman did not have any too kindly a feeling towards me, but Mr. L. C. Goodwin, vice-president of the bank, whom I made a friend of at the time of the collection of the Prager note, the first day I arrived here, virtually swore by me.  While in charge of the bank on one occasion, Mr. Hellman having gone to Europe, he called me in when he needed the services of an attorney.  He also gave me the business of the Los Angeles Savings Bank, of which he was also vice-president.  When Mr. Hellman came back and found me handling their litigation, he upbraided Goodwin severely, asking him, "Why on earth did you give that fellow our law business?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Goodwin answered him, "Wait until you see him in action, and you will know why."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Hellman soon found that I was prompt and efficient, and in time became my very warm friend and supporter.  He caused me to be elected vice-president of the bank, in 1896.  When I took charge of the bank, in June, 1903, its total assets were something like $8,000,000.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>In 1890, Mr. I. W. Hellman left Los Angeles to take charge of the Nevada Bank in San Francisco.  He retained his Los Angeles interests and always had the deepest affection for the Farmers &amp; Merchants.  He undoubtedly was the leader of the banking world in Los Angeles, when he left here, and as far as that is concerned, for many years afterwards.  Living in San Francisco, in an atmosphere hostile to Los Angeles, and only coming here occasionally, I do not think he realized just how rapidly this country was making progress until a few years before his death, on May 10th, 1920.  Mr. Hellman was very much beloved by all of the old-timers.  There was not a merchant, a farmer, a stock raiser or a sheep raiser, whom he had not befriended or to whom he had not advanced money when they needed it.  People who understood him knew the character of man that he was.  Some of the newcomers to Los Angeles, who never had any experience with him, probably had the impression that he was a hard man to deal with.  Nothing, however, was further from the truth.  Necessarily, any bank which loaned money on mortgages, as the old Farmers &amp; Merchants did, had to foreclose some of them.  Mr. Hellman never foreclosed until it was necessary, to prevent the statute of limitations from running.  He used to call me in and give me the papers for a foreclosure suit, when there was so little time to elapse, before the statute <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Hellman always said to me, "I do not, nor does the bank, want to take any man's property.  I wait until the last minute, hoping that something will happen to prevent the necessity of a foreclosure."  And, as a proof of this fact, the moment the bank had acquired a property on a foreclosure, and could sell it for sufficient to get back its money, with expenses of foreclosure and sale, it always sold the property.  I am glad to pay this tribute to him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Going back a little: In 1887, Mr. Joseph F. Sartori, himself a lawyer, and now the president of the Security Trust &amp; Savings Bank, and Mr. F. N. Meyers, incorporated the Security Trust &amp; Savings Bank.  The principals borrowed from the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank every dollar of capital they put into the bank, and included in the securities with which they secured the debt, were hundreds of boom town lots, scattered throughout Southern California.  These lots were deeded to me as trustee for the bank.  When they had discharged their debt to the bank, they did not call on me for a reconveyance, and I was fully twenty years conveying these lots, as they succeeded in disposing of them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Shortly after the incorporation of the Security Bank I became a director in it, and remained such until the passage of the Clayton Act.  I was at that time a director in a dozen banks, and had to resign in all but three of them.  The firms with which I was connected were attorneys for the Security Bank until the time of our dissolution, and I think that both Mr. Shankland, during his lifetime, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I am very proud of the record of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank and its successor, the Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank.  It has been in business since April, 1871.  Some people are still its customers who opened accounts with it in the first month that it did business.  It has never been involved in any sort of a scandal.  Its officials have recognized the fact that banking is a jealous mistress, and have devoted themselves, almost exclusively, to the banking business.  Anyone who knows the bank will agree with me that its reputation has always been, and is now, most excellent.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1905, it completed and moved into the building owned by it at the southwest corner of Fourth and Main streets, where it is still located.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In the fifty-six years since the incorporation of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank, that bank and its successor, the Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank, have had but three presidents.  Ex-Governor John G. Downey was the president of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank from the date of its incorporation until 1875.  He was succeeded by Mr. I. W. Hellman, who remained president of the bank until his death, in May, 1920.  Since that time I have occupied the position of president.  A fairly good record for a fifty-six-year term.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>BRIEF BANKING HISTORY OF LOS ANGELES</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN 1875, there were three banks in Los Angeles city, viz.: the Farmers &amp; Merchants, the Los Angeles County, and the Temple &amp; Workman Bank, the first of which, as the Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank, is still in existence.  The Temple &amp; Workman Bank closed its doors in September, 1875, reopened for a time, and in the early spring of 1876, made an assignment of all of its assets, and all of the individual assets of its two owners, F. P. F. Temple and William Workman, for the benefit of their creditors.  In the fall of 1875, the Commercial Bank of Los Angeles was organized and, in 1880, it became the First National Bank of this city.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Until 1887, the banks of Los Angeles cleared their several items on each other by messengers going from bank to bank and collecting their respective items owing from one bank to another, over the counter, usually taking away the money so paid in coin.  This method was cumbersome, expensive, and, to some extent, dangerous.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The growth of the business of the city was constant.  The bankers here finally realized the necessity of following the example of larger and wealthier cities and, in the fall of 1887, established the Los Angeles Clearing House Association.  There are no minutes of the association in existence prior to 1896, so that the exact date of the organization is at present unknown.  There are records, however, to show that in October, 1887, its first officers were elected.  They were: President, I. W. Hellman, president of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The association at that time was composed of the following banks:</P>
095.sgm:<P>No. 1.  Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank;</P>
095.sgm:<P>No. 2.  Los Angeles County Bank;</P>
095.sgm:<P>No. 3.  First National Bank;</P>
095.sgm:<P>No. 4.  Los Angeles National Bank;</P>
095.sgm:<P>No. 5.  Southern California National Bank;</P>
095.sgm:<P>No. 6.  University Bank of Los Angeles;</P>
095.sgm:<P>No. 7.  Childers Safe Deposit Bank.</P>
095.sgm:<P>While the preliminary object of a clearing house is as defined by the supreme court of Pennsylvania, "an ingenious device to simplify and facilitate the work of the banks in reaching an adjustment and payment of the daily balances due to and from each other, at one time, and in one place, on each day.  In practical application it is a place where all the representatives of the banks in a given city meet, and, under the supervision of a competent committee or officer selected by the associated banks, settle their accounts with each other and make or receive payment of balances, and so `clear' the transactions of the day for which the settlement is made....," these purposes have been, from time to time, broadened.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"The objects of the Association are:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"First.  To foster sound and conservative methods of banking.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Second.  To establish such rules and regulations to facilitate the handling of business as shall be of mutual advantage and interest to all members.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Third.  To effect at one place the daily exchanges between the several associated banks.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Fourth.  To effect payment at the same place of the balances resulting from such exchanges."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Between 1887, the time of the organization of the Los Angeles Clearing House Association, and the time that the Federal Reserve Bank began business, balances between the banks, when clearings were once ascertained, were settled in the following manner: Each bank which was a member of the clearing house deposited with the clearing house committee gold coin in an amount which it deemed necessary to cover its weekly debits at the clearing house.  For such gold coin, the clearing house committee issued to each bank so making its deposit clearing house certificates of various denominations.  Daily balances were settled at the clearing house with these certificates.  The total amount issued to the clearing house banks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Originally, the executive committee of the Los Angeles Clearing House Association consisted of its president, vice-president, and three members, officers of various banks in the city.  Recently, the number of members of the committee has been increased to seven, consisting of the president and secretary of the organization and five additional members elected from the officers of the various banks of the city.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I have been a member of the executive committee of the Los Angeles Clearing House Association for twenty-four years, longer than any man who has ever served upon it in the past.  During that time I have been president of the association for six years.  It was my misfortune to be elected president in October, 1907.  Immediately afterwards, like a bomb from a clear sky, a money shortage suddenly occurred, and, without any warning, the banks of all eastern monied centers notified their correspondents that they could not draw any money on deposit with them.  All the banks in these eastern centers went upon a clearing house basis, issued clearing house certificates, in varying denominations, as a circulating medium, and would pay drafts drawn by their correspondents only with these clearing house certificates.  At that time all the banks of Los Angeles carried heavy credit balances in the eastern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Furthermore, as the salvation of the business public, the banks issued clearing house certificates in small size, commonly designated as "scrip," in denominations of one dollar, two dollars, five dollars, ten dollars, and twenty dollars.  This scrip was issued to each bank, upon commercial paper deposited by it with the president of the clearing house association, and approved by the clearing house committee.  The total amount of scrip issued during the panic was $3,396,650.  The scrip did not bear interest.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The clearing house did not confine the issue of this scrip to its own members, or to Los Angeles banks, but generously allowed outside banks to secure scrip, on deposit of proper securities.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In due time, and in a much sooner time than anybody anticipated, all the banks paid off this scrip and took away their collateral.  When scrip redemptions had virtually been concluded, there remained outstanding, $3,896 thereof, for which the clearing house set aside that amount of money, placing it in a savings bank in an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>There is no doubt that the prompt action of the clearing house banks, taken in October, 1907, saved Southern California from a financial depression, from which it would have taken years to recover.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Prior to the installment of the Federal Reserve system, the Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank was much criticised by some of its contemporaries, for the reason that it always carried in its vaults a large cash reserve, amounting very frequently to 45% of its deposits.  It was a fortunate thing for the banks of this city, when the panic of 1907 came, that the Farmers &amp; Merchants had this gold reserve.  As a result, it soon accumulated a very large portion of the clearing house certificates, issued for panic purposes, and of course collected 7% interest thereon.  The scrip spoken of above was the only circulating medium, and any shortage of cash that resulted to the Farmers &amp; Merchants, it made up by taking out large quantities of scrip.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Many of my legal friends approached me in alarm, when we issued this scrip, and pointed out to me sections of the penal code which made it a crime for the clearing house to do so.  I told them that "necessity knows no law"; that unless the banks of this community had desired to see all of the business enterprises of this section closed down, the issuance of scrip was an absolute necessity; that I was willing to take my chances, in case of prosecution, before an American jury.  Nothing, however, ever came of it beyond the threats of some of our interfering socilalistic elements.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles Clearing House Association was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>These were certainly trying times, but I was quite ably assisted by Mr. Stoddard Jess, Mr. J. E. Fishburn and Mr. W. H. Holliday, members of the clearing house committee.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1908, there were 46 banks in the City of Los Angeles.  Some of them were of a mushroom character, illy organized as to personnel, under-capitalized, addicted to unethical methods of securing deposits, and were, without doubt, a menace to the public at large.  The clearing house association took hold of the matter vigorously, established rules which may have seemed harsh to banks of the character above-mentioned, and by exerting proper moral pressure, forced consolidations and liquidations until the number of banks in the city was reduced to about twenty.</P>
095.sgm:<P>This action of the clearing house strengthened the banking situation in Los Angeles and protected the public from losses which, in the end, might have been serious.  In one instance, the clearing house association took over the assets of a bank in failing circumstances, paid off its deposits in full, liquidated its assets, and repaid to the banks who advanced the same, the funds necessary to accomplish these objects.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Not in this century has a depositor in any bank in Los Angeles city lost one single dollar, except in the case of one small bank not connected with the clearing house.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Taking up the subject out of its chronological order, all the business men of this city most vividly remember the difficulties that confronted the financial world of American when the European War broke out.  The foreign trade of the United States immediately came to a standstill.  Unemployment was universal.  Business depression was widespread.  Foreign collections became frozen, also many domestic credits.  Money was hoarded by private individuals and thereby bank deposits were depleted.  Quick action was necessary to save the nation from a financial calamity.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Fortunately, in 1912, when there was not a cloud in the financial sky, the national banks of Los Angeles city had incorporated the National Currency Association of Los Angeles, under the Aldrich-Vreeland Bill.  Mr. Stoddard Jess, the then president of the clearing house, and myself, then its vice-president, were elected president and vice-president respectively, and an executive committee was appointed from the officers of the national banks of this city.  Subsequently, the by-laws of the corporation were amended, so as to include the national banks of Los Angeles, San Bernardino, Riverside, Orange, San Diego, Imperial, Ventura and Santa Barbara counties.  When the trouble of 1914 occurred, the clearing house association acted with its usual promptness, through the National Currency Association.  I was elected custodian of the securities offered by the various banks, and there was issued to the banks, by the National Currency Association of Los Angeles, emergency currency to the amount of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Just as I did in 1907, during this panic I drew all of the documents that were executed between the banks, attended to all the matters that an attorney would have attended to, without charge for my services.</P>
095.sgm:<P>With the destruction of the German raiders and the resumption of foreign trade, and the coming of the unusual activity in America engendered by the war, all of this emergency currency was, in a very short time, redeemed, and the securities deposited by the banks were returned to them.  Here, again, the Los Angeles Clearing House Association rendered the Los Angeles public a service which justified its existence and maintenance.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>J. M. ELLIOTT OUR LIVING PIONEER BANKER MY ENTRANCE INTO THE BANKING BUSINESS</P>
095.sgm:<P>MR. J. M. ELLIOTT, chairman of the board of the First National Bank of Los Angeles, has been in the banking business in Los Angeles longer than any other banker here.  His banking career began with the formation of the Los Angeles County Bank, in 1874, of which he was cashier.  It is rather singular that I, who have been in the banking business but twenty-four years, prior to 1880, secured a position for Mr. Elliott in the Commercial Bank of Los Angeles.  After it became the First National Bank of Los Angeles, he filled the position of cashier, vice-president and president of it, and is now the chairman of its board.  He was always highly respected as a banker, a kindly man, patient, careful, always ready to advise or condole with his customer, as occasion demanded.  No officer in that bank was ever more beloved by the bank's depositors than is J. M. Elliott.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Since 1874, and ever since 1903, when I actively entered the banking business, the entire banking structure of the country has been changed.  The functions of banks have been very much enlarged.  A bank is no longer a place simply for the deposit of money, the borrowing of funds and the withdrawing of funds by checks.  Every bank in the country now has a savings department, where its customers can accumulate spare funds, which are enriched at stated periods by the crediting thereon of interest earned by the money while so deposited.  All banks have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>In the last few years the branch banking idea has taken possession of American bankers, and especially upon the Pacific Coast.  Branch banking originated back in Roman times, but it was not practiced on the extensive scale that it is today.  On this continent, Canada has long sustained the branch bank system.  There are many banks in Los Angeles which have from fifty to one hundred branches each, some of them spread throughout the boundaries of the state.  One California corporation, the Bank of Italy, not satisfied with being represented by branches in every county in the state, now announces a plan of sustaining a nation-wide branch banking system and possibly with international connections.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The branch bank idea is, to some extent, a new one.  It is an experiment which has not yet been fully tried out.  It came into vogue in California during most prosperous times--during a period of unparalleled inflation.  What will happen to the branch banks, in case of a serious depression, such as we have many times undergone, yet remains to be seen.</P>
095.sgm:<P>If it is desirable that a banker should have full knowledge of the inner workings of his institution, a correct understanding of its assets and liabilities, then branch banking will destroy that, which has been regarded in the past as a prerequisite of good banking.  No human intellect can grasp the details of one hundred institutions, and, necessarily, he who is responsible for the workings thereof must rely upon subordinates.</P>
095.sgm:<P>That the branch bank idea is not altogether popular, is proven by the fact that, in many of the prosperous cities of the state, where branch banks have taken over all of the independent banks located there, very shortly afterwards an independent bank is organized by local people.</P>
095.sgm:<P>If, under the branch bank idea, one bank could, in time, acquire all the branch banks in the State of California, and thereby, in time, crowd out all the independent banks, then, of course, depositors would be at the mercy of such a monopoly, as to interest to be received on their deposits, and as to interest to be charged to them on moneys borrowed.  I think it safe, however, to say that the spirit of America will never allow a complete monopolization of banking by any financial power which may arise.</P>
095.sgm:<P>While my duties as a banker have been onerous, they have been pleasant and I have enjoyed my experience.  While practicing law I always had a faculty, on the first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>BILLY SANDS.  RUNNING TO A FIRE</P>
095.sgm:<P>TRY AS I WILL to keep my mind upon things of the present, it will revert to the past.  I have a very distinct mental picture of "Old Billy Sands," a product of the times in which he lived.  He was on the police force when I arrived in Los Angeles.  He was squat in figure, blear-eyed, grizzled, was highly respected by the mercantile world and held the confidence of all who knew him, notwithstanding the fact that he drank, smoked and, when off duty, frequently sat in a quiet game of poker.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Everybody knew him and everybody liked him.  He was on the night watch in the business portion of the city.  He would wander into Billy Buffum's saloon, where either John Tait or Ben Parker would be dealing faro.  He would stand around and look on the game, jeering the dealer when he lost and cheering the player when he won.  When free drinks on the house were passed around, he took his with the rest of the assemblage.  Finally, with a wave of his hand, he would say, "Good-bye, boys, I am going.  Be good.  Don't violate the law, as I don't want to have to arrest you."  There was no law in Los Angeles, at the time, against gambling.</P>
095.sgm:<P>It was Billy Sands who rescued my party on the return from the picnic which resulted in my story of "Ludovici's Punch."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Well do I remember the first fire engine which Los Angeles possessed.  It was one of those old-fashioned hand-power machines.  A dozen men stood on either side <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>One day Judge Brunson and I had just come from the old court house, and we heard the fire bell ringing as we stood at the corner of Spring and Temple streets, and along came the old machine with Jacob Kuhrts out on the end of the lead rope and Charlie Miles holding the tongue of the machine.  They were pulling it alone.  Just as they rounded the corner from Spring into Main, Miles called to me, "Graves, get in here and give me a hand."  I pulled off my coat, and asked Judge Brunson to take it up to the office, which he did.  We crossed Main Street, and by the time we got to Commercial Street there were a dozen men on the rope, assisting in pulling the machine.  There is quite a fall on Commercial from Main to Los Angeles Street, and there was no brake on the machine.  Miles and I had to simply lay back and dig our heels into the ground to keep from being run over.  We then diagonally crossed Los Angeles Street, and when we reached Aliso Street we had the same difficulty, until we came to Alameda Street.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The fire was at the Philadelphia Brewery.  We soon reached it.  It was in an outbuilding, used for a stable and for the storage of wagons and we soon extinguished the flames.  There was an immense Aliso tree at the brewery, from which Aliso Street was named.  After we had put out the fire, the brewery people rolled out a ten-gallon keg of beer, opened it, and we sat around and drank a little beer, and of course, as it was a warm day we had gotten quite warm with our exertions and run with the machine.  After <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Not long after that, the city bought its first steam fire engine.  It was horse-drawn.  At that time a man named Joe Brison kept a beer saloon downstairs at the northeast corner of Main and Requena streets.  About that time, Boca Beer, made in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, near where the Donner party was snowed in, in 1846, had just been introduced and was very popular.  It was a very excellent beer and was light in alcohol.  All the business people, doctors, lawyers, merchants, used to go down to Joe Brison's and get a glass of beer and a sandwich for lunch.  One day the place was filled and there was a fire alarm.  The entrance to the beer saloon was curved, and at the corner of the street.  The driver of the engine attempted to swing from Main Street into Requena, made too short a turn, and the fire engine turned over into the saloon entrance.  There it lay, hissing steam and dropping coals, and of course everybody was very much alarmed.  There were some low windows, just above the sidewalk, on the Main Street side of the building, and the way we all came out of those windows was astonishing.  Tommie Rowan, a well-known character, for many years county treasurer, afterwards a member of the city council, and later, for years, on the board of supervisors, was very stout, and we had quite a time getting him through the window, but with some of us pulling on him from above and others <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>There is no use of comparing the present conditions with those existing in 1875.  Things then were crude.  Society was in a formative stage.  Crime was not more frequent than it is now.  People then had the privilege of lawfully buying good liquor, if they desired to drink it, whereas today, notwithstanding all of the refinements of our civilization, a man must become a criminal to even purchase bad liquor.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>BUILT HOME AT TERMINAL ISLAND "OUR SOUTHERN SEAS"</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN 1889, I purchased a 75-foot lot, fronting on the ocean, with a depth of 200 feet, at Terminal Island, which was then a very popular summer resort, and one of the most pleasant beaches in Los Angeles County.  It was remarkably free from fogs and cold winds.  While living there, often I would take the train for Los Angeles, with the sun shining brightly, and before we had reached the city we would be enveloped in heavy fog.  The fogs seemed to come from the ocean, from the direction of Redondo, and did not reach either the Terminal or Long Beach territory.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I immediately built a very comfortable and quite a large-sized cottage.  I drove a number of piles to rest the house on, and it was well that I did.  The next winter a terrific storm came along, destroyed quite a number of houses along the beach, washed the sand out under our house, so that one could walk around underneath it, but never injured the house in any particular.  Another storm filled it up again, and before the next winter we had a bulkhead built, which entirely protected us.</P>
095.sgm:<P>It was a wonderful beach for bathing and especially for children.  The beach receded gradually, and the water was quite shallow until one got out a considerable distance.  It was a grand sight to sit on our porch and watch the summer storms.  Waves would be coming in towards the shore that were much higher than our house, and a stranger would have thought that everything would be enveloped therein, but owing to the shallowness of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>In 1889, I commissioned Mr. Joe Fellows, a boat-builder, who had just come here from Seattle, to build me a 38-foot gasoline launch.  He installed in it a 25 H.P. Union Gas Engine.  We named the boat the Pasqualito, that being the name of the ranch upon which our home is situated.  It was a very seaworthy boat, and we crossed the channel to Catalina in it many times, but we never should have done so.  No small boat without sails should ever be caught in the middle of that channel, as frequently storms come up quite unexpectedly, and if one's engine were to be put out of commission, the boat would, without doubt, be swamped.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We enjoyed the Pasqualito very much as a pleasure boat and also for fishing.  During vacations I made quite a number of trips, not in the Pasqualito, but in larger boats, to the Islands, all of which were very enjoyable.  St. Nicholas Island was especially interesting.  I wrote for the September number of the <HI REND="italics">West Coast Magazine</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"OUR SOUTHERN SEAS"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"In no land under the sun can as much pleasure be gotten out of the sea, year in and year out, as in Southern California.  Like the land, the ocean has its seasons.  Winter brings its storms, with rolling billows.  Wind-swept and pitiless, the roaring waters beat the land.  They climb far up great shoulders of bleak barren rocks that stand all along our island shores, grim guardians of the land beyond, and fall back in surging masses of foam, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"At such times the whole vast expanse of the great ocean is lashed to fury.  Along the shore line of the coast, wave after wave comes pounding in with the mad energy of some demon bent upon destruction.  It is a great sight to watch the sea during a rising storm, to see its smooth surface grow turbulent, to look upon the foam-crested waters, gathering added force, until an impressive climax of destructive energy is reached.  Everywhere the sea has become foam-capped and furious, as if driven by a passion uncontrolled.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"And then again, no less interesting a picture is the gradual subsidence of such a storm.  For hours, sometimes days, the fury of the waters rages unabated.  Then the wind dies down.  As if exhausted by their exertions, the white caps lose their foam-crested edges.  The roar of the billows grows fainter until they assume their normal murmurings.  Little by little the fury of the storm is spent.  The high-crested waves melt into long, unbroken swells.  Gradually the ocean grows quiet, and sinks into that placid condition in which we know and love it best.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"These storms are not frequent.  They serve to teach us to avoid the sea when angry waves arise thereon.  The calm that follows such a disturbance is far more beautiful in effect than brush can paint or words portray.  For months, during that period of the year which the almanacs call winter, we get some of our best effects and finest weather on our southern seas.  As a rule, it is warmer toward the seacoast during the winter months than it is a few miles inland.  These advantages will bring to us, when the Panama Canal is finished, many of the private yachts of eastern millionaires which now spend their winters in the Mediterranean.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"With the advent of spring the sea becomes a thing of marvelous beauty.  One bright May morning, years ago, I left San Pedro in a launch and coasted along in the shallow waters past Long Beach and Newport Bay, down as far as where Balboa is now located.  Not a ripple disturbed the placid waters.  We often say the surface of the sea is as `smooth as glass.'  The expression is erroneous.  The sea is never still.  It is never smooth.  The surface may be unbroken, but it is ever undulating.  Slight may be the undulation, but it is there, always there--a thing of perpetual motion.  When there is no wind to ruffle the surface, the motion is almost imperceptible, but it is there, just as regular as the breathing of a sleeping infant, and frequently as gentle.  Such was the sea on that May day.  Two of my sons, now lost to me, were with me.  How they reveled in the joys of that delightful experience!  For miles we sailed through a very garden of gloriously colored jelly-fish.  They were everywhere.  Their colorings were more radiant, more varied and more beautiful than those of the rainbow.  The warm rays of the sun had brought them to the surface.  There they expanded to immense size.  Some of them cast out long feelers or streamers in every direction.  Every tint in their delicate and filmy organism was magnified.  Occasionally the launch would touch one of them.  Instantly this quivering mass of color would contract into a compact body.  Its contraction was accompanied by a kaleidoscopic shifting of colors, bewildering to the eye.  The sea birds and the fish of the sea seemed to be exulting over the splendors of the season.  The smaller gulls and terns, and still smaller water fowl that frequent the ocean, whirled and circled in the air as if in play.  They gave forth shrill cries as they cavorted from the air to the water and from the water to the air.  They flew here and there and everywhere, as if mad with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Many days like this one, the spring affords to those who love and follow the ocean!  On its broad bosom one can rest.  Simply to bask in the sunlight, to inhale the smell of the salt water, to breathe the ozone from the uncontaminated air of the sea, is a benediction.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Following the spring, the mornings of the early days of summer are quite often foggy, but the summer nights are brilliantly beautiful.  This is the time to betake yourself to Catalina Island for an outing.  You can either remain on shore, or take a boat and cruise around, anchoring where night overtakes you, or fancy suggests.  Your boat is your home.  You fish until your larder is full.  You can go ashore and wander to your heart's content.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"San Clemente Island presents more charms to me, as a cruising place, than any of the off-shore islands.  Off the north coast are the grouper beds, where you fish at a depth of from four hundred to six hundred feet.  You bait your hooks, put on pounds of sinkers and let out line until bottom is reached.  The pressure is so great that you never feel a bite.  Occasionally you draw up your line.  With it usually comes an ample supply of fish, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"On one occasion a party of us crossed from San Clemente late in the afternoon in a staunch sailing vessel.  Our good boat tossed and careened.  Now she stood almost straight up in the air.  Before she had fairly topped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Virgil, in describing the storm which scattered the vessels of &aelig;neas far and wide, wrote, `Nox atra incubat mare!'  How that word `incubat' described our situation.  `Black night brooded over the sea.'  The blackness, as it were, `brooded' over us, shutting out sky and land.  While we could still hear the wind sweeping down the channel we had just crossed, not a breath of air reached us.  After a time the moon came up.  What a moon it was!  A great full moon, radiant with light!  Like the rising sun, it illuminated the sky.  It illuminated each silver wavelet.  It lighted up Catalina's coast.  While straining our eyes in search of some belated pleasure craft, we heard the metallic `click, click, click' of a gasoline motor over next to the shore.  Then the lights of a small launch appeared, hugging the shore and running towards Avalon.  There was a small brass cannon on our deck.  We loaded and fired it in the direction of the launch.  It was evidently heard.  Soon we saw the lights headed in our direction.  In a short time it was alongside of us.  It was a small gasoline launch which had been around the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"When Byron wrote:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Roll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean--roll!<LB>Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain:<LB>Man marks the earth with ruin--his control<LB>Stops with the shore: Upon the watery plain,<LB>The wrecks are all thy deed, nor doth remain<LB>A shadow of man's ravage, save his own,<LB>When, for a moment, like a drop of rain,<LB>He sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan,<LB>Without a grave, unknell'd, unconfin'd, and unknown.'<LB></HI>
095.sgm:<P>he could have had no more inspiring view of the ocean, no matter where he was, than he would have had if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Of all the moods of the sea, and there are many, that of autumn suits me best.  There is a still calm, the equivalent of what is called `Indian Summer' upon land, which takes possession of the ocean during the fall months.  The summer vacationist who visits Catalina, as a rule leaves it too early in the season.  October, brown October, with its quiet days and glorious nights, bringing peace and comparative quietude even to old ocean's ceaseless activity, is the month one can get the most enjoyment in cruising about on our southern seas.  The days are full of sunshine, but not of oppressive heat.  No fogs obscure the starlit sky.  No dust shuts out any of the mysterious lights implanted in the blue dome of heaven.  No treacherous winds lash the peaceful waters into waves mountain high, or carve out of the sea's uneven surface dark valleys to engulf your craft.  Nowhere else are these fall moonlight nights as bright or as beautiful as upon the ocean.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I spent a delightful fortnight in cruising around San Clemente, Catalina, even out past the barren rocks of Santa Barbara to St. Nicholas, seventy miles beyond Catalina, in October, some years ago.  St. Nicholas is some ninety miles long by several miles wide.  The shore line is rough and forbidding and anchorages are few and difficult to make.  The land ascends from the coast until at a height of several hundred feet there is a broad table-land, very level, extending east and west.  From the north the winds sweep the island with great force.  Vast acres of sand have invaded the northern extremity of St. Nicholas.  One large ravine, in which a good-sized stream of water rises, and which formerly flowed to the ocean, is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Returning from one trip there, as we were almost off Santa Barbara Island, which is a high, flat, barren rock projecting from the sea, we saw two men in a tow boat, pulling toward us and signaling us to stop.  We slowed down and waited for them.  They were two highly excited Italian fishermen.  They wanted to show us an immense crawfish they had just captured.  He was certainly a monster.  They said he weighed thirty-one pounds.  He looked as big as a nail keg.  We asked them to sell him to us.  They replied: `Not-a mucha, we puta heim back.  He da bigga da crawfisha in da worl'.  We no kill heim.  We puta heim back.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"That night we lay at anchor in the little bay at the isthmus on the eastern side of Catalina Island.  Next morning, at four o'clock, we sailed for San Pedro.  I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"In the autumn months throughout Southern California there are times when the atmosphere is remarkably clear at daybreak, and the eye can distinguish objects at a very long range.  An old friend of mine, Mr. John E. Jackson, a civil engineer, who lived a great deal of the time in the open, often called my attention to this peculiar atmospheric condition.  He told me that on one occasion he had seen the flagstaff on the Hotel Arcadia at Santa Monica from the summit of Mt. Wilson, with the naked eye.  This was hard for me to believe.  A short time afterwards, in company with a gentleman from England, who was here on business, I spent a night at Echo Mountain.  This was before the electric road had been extended to Mt. Lowe.  The next morning we went on muleback, before sunrise, to the summit of Mt. Lowe.  It was late in the fall, just after a slight rainstorm.  The morning proved to be a `Jackson' morning.  We not only saw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"While our southern seas are usually free from storms in summer-time, there are occasionally summer storms here of considerable violence, unaccompanied by winds.  The ocean will occasionally, on short notice, become very ugly.  For days great big breakers will roll into the shore.  Before the breakwater was built at San Pedro, these storms worked great havoc along the Terminal Island shore line.  At one time it looked as if every house on the island would be washed away.  Great waves in quick succession would advance from the ocean.  They appeared to be high enough to sweep over the housetops.  When, however, they reached shallow water, about one hundred yards from the shore, the base of the column would drag on the sand.  The top would plunge over onto the beach with a terrific roar, and cast its spray and foam far into the air.  Sometimes for days this process would continue.  Each tumbling breaker shook the earth.  When one of these storms subsided the ocean front from Terminal to Long Beach would be covered with deep-water seashells and great bodies of giant kelp.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"On one occasion, after a peaceful summer evening, I left Avalon with my family and a few guests in the `Pasqualito,' a sturdy gasoline launch, 38 feet long, and equipped with a 25 H.P. engine, for San Pedro.  We waited until after seven o'clock for the moon to come up.  It was bright as day when we started, and the sea was as smooth as one ever sees it.  Soon dark, broken clouds obscured the sky.  The ocean became black and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"If any of my readers know Dr. Ernest A. Bryant, who was with us, just ask him how he liked it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Victor Hugo could have adequately described our voyage.  I know of no other writer, living or dead, who could have done so.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The long stretch of sea-coast from Balboa south, past San Juan Capistrano, past Oceanside, Del Mar and La Jolla, to San Diego, and still beyond, also affords delightful cruising grounds.  The Channel Isands, off Santa Barbara, are charming spots.  Their shores afford deep water and good landing places.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The yachts from the East, which will winter with us upon the completion of the Panama Canal, will use all of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>Later on, the City of Los Angeles, in excavating the Inner Harbor, pumped miles and miles of white sand out into the ocean in front of the Terminal Island beach, and absolutely ruined it as a pleasure resort.  In front of our house, where the water used to come within twenty-five feet of it, it is now at least a mile to the water.  When Terminal Island was laid out, a 25-foot strip was left in front of the lots, as a street, and so marked on the map.  If this street had not been there, the accretion formed by the sand pumped from the Inner Harbor would have belonged to the lot owners, but as the city owned the street, the accretion went to it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Naturally, this very much depreciated all of our properties.  I sold our house and lot for about a quarter of what it cost. It was comfortably furnished, and Mrs. Graves gave all of the bedding to Mr. L. N. Brunswig to send to France for the war sufferers, during the war.  I also sold the Pasqualito when we could no longer use our home at the Island.  It went to San Diego, and some one told me it is still running, although it must be seventeen years since I disposed of it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>No matter what I was out on this deal, I feel that I was amply repaid by the pleasure which it gave us, and especially the enjoyment which my children and their friends had there.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>VARIOUS FISHING EXCURSIONS.  BIG TROUT BUT GOT AWAY</P>
095.sgm:<P>DURING my vacations I had many fishing excursions.  I had fished most of the trout streams from the McCloud River to those of Los Angeles County.  Back in the '70's, and well into the '80's, there were no better trout streams on this coast than the San Gabriel Canyon and the small stream in San Antonio Canyon.  In the old days, 23-inch trout were frequently taken in each of them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In July, 1893, I had most wonderful fishing at a large lake, well up toward the headwaters of the Kern River.  This lake was formed by an immense slide from a mountain into the bed of the stream, during a wet season back in the '60's.  The slide, after the dirt had washed out of it, completely dammed up the river with rocks.  It is many years since I was there, and from the progress made in filling it up by sediment settling in it from the upper end, I would imagine that by this time it would be nearly destroyed for fishing purposes.</P>
095.sgm:<P>One morning I caught four fish, using a brown Hackle fly, which, after being drawn, weighed sixteen pounds and four ounces.  All of my party were equally successful.  Judge Wm. P. Wade, of the Superior Court of Los Angeles County, and myself, were walking along the edge of the lake, one bright morning.  There was an eddy, in which had gathered floating debris, of all kinds, including large pieces of bark off of pine trees.  At the same instant, some twenty feet from shore, we espied a trout, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>When the judge and I got into camp, and told our story, our companions would have none of it, and vowed we had been drinking and had gotten to the stage where we were seeing things.  The story is, however, a true one.  Judge Wade has long since gone to the reward that awaits an honest judge and all good fishermen.  During his lifetime he verified this story, and would do so yet, were he living.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On that trip we caught the true Golden Trout, in Whitney or Volcano Creek, a tributary on the east side of the Kern River.  They are a game and very palatable fish, not over twelve inches long, in that locality.  I have heard that they are much larger in a stream called Cottonwood Creek, that flows into Owens River Valley.  We caught hybrid golden trout in streams east of Kern River and south of Whitney Creek.  They had golden spots on their sides, often as large as a fifty-cent piece.  We first found them in a stream in Brown's Meadows, but one day's travel from Kernville.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1903, I had most excellent fishing in Spring Creek, in the Klamath River Indian Reservation, in Oregon.  The waters of the stream were so clear that it was impossible to catch a trout in it except on riffles where it ran with considerable velocity over submerged rocks and thus made a foam or bubbles which, to some extent, interfered with the vision of the fish.  The best trout fishermen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>One morning, on Spring Creek, in a very short time, with a fly, I caught four trout which were nearly as large as any of the four which I caught at the lake on Kern River.  They were beautiful fish, lighter in color than the Kern River trout.  Trout owe their colorization largely to environment.  A trout which has its habitat in a deep hole, where it can go under large boulders, is usually darker than those that live in more open waters.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On the trip to the Klamath Indian Reservation above-mentioned, the largest fish taken was caught by Mr. Norman Sterry, an attorney of this city.  It was caught in the Williamson River, just below where Spring Creek empties into it, and weighed over six pounds.  It was shaped, as far as its body was concerned, more like a fresh water black bass than a trout, but it had the head and fins of the latter.</P>
095.sgm:<P>One morning I caught a ten-pound trout on a light rod with a Wilson spoon, in Lake Tahoe.  Just as I landed it, the lake steamer came along, going to Tallac.  I hailed it, gave the fish to the captain, asked him to have it cleaned and ship it to my partners, O'Melveny and Shankland, at Los Angeles, which he did.  After a few days, desiring to ship them more fish, provided the first one reached them in good shape, I wired the firm asking if the trout had arrived safely.  Mr. Shankland answered as follows:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Trout arrived in fine shape.  Served it at California Club.  Cost me nineteen dollars for wine."</P>
095.sgm:<P>To which I replied: "You got off cheaply.  What do you suppose it cost me?"</P>
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095.sgm:<P>Both the San Gabriel and San Antonio canyons have been ruined as trout streams by the power companies.  There is still some fishing on the upper reaches of the San Gabriel.  There is much good fishing in many of the streams throughout the Sierra Nevada Mountains. I always found the best trout fishing where the other fishermen did not go.  That means, at or near the headwaters of the stream one is fishing, and of course means extremely hard work.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Like all other fishermen, I once caught a large one that got away.  I will describe the incident by quoting from an account which I wrote of the adventure and which was printed in <HI REND="italics">The Graphic</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"Near Ice House Canyon the main stream turned a little to the left, and ran over a sun-baked, boulder-strewn flat for some distance.  This flat was evidently torn up by winter floods.  The stream had frequently changed its course over the flat.  That season it ran in a small depression among the boulders.  I kept to a path along one of its banks, and as I crossed the flat I saw in the bottom of the depression where the stream ran an immense hole, some ten feet in diameter, and probably as deep.  The water flowed into it from above, and out of it on its lower side.  The flat I speak of terminated at the foot of a mountain, where in those days the trail for the trip up `Old Baldy' began.  I remember that an immense maple tree stood where the trail began its ascent.  Under the maple was a beautiful pool of water, out of which I took, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>355</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Just as I made the hole I spoke of as being in the bottom of the creek bed, I saw an enormous trout, almost on his side, near the top of the water, apparently sunning himself.  He saw me just about the same instant I saw him, and dove to the bottom of the pool.  There was a stunted sage-brush on one side of the pool, the only growing thing anywhere near it.  I crept up behind it, and as much in its cover as I could get, and began to cast over the pool.  I dropped my fly into every nook and corner of it, but never got a rise.  Then I backed off and changed my fly, and tried it again.  For fully an hour I stood in the boiling sun, and used all my skill to lure that trout from his hiding-place.  It was one of those really hot mornings that one gets sometimes even in high altitudes.  I actually suffered from the heat.  I concluded to go away for half an hour and give the trout a rest.  I moved from the stream, looked at my watch, determined to give that trout fully thirty minutes to get into motion again, sat down on a boulder in the sun, there being no shade anywhere in sight, and waited patiently.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"While sitting there, several big, yellow grasshoppers flew by.  I made after them, watching them alight, and killed two of them with my hat.  These I put on my fly hook, and when my half-hour was up I crept back to the pool and played them all over the surface, but without success.  Then I let them sink slowly into the pool, and to my delight I saw the trout come up towards them.  He looked twice as big as he did when I first saw him.  He swam slowly to my grasshoppers, and contemptuously poked them to one side with his nose, swimming around <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>356</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"I got fresh grasshoppers, went back to my boulder, and sat down and waited.  While sitting there I saw a kangaroo rat cross the path in front of me and disappear in a hole in an old log not far away.  I went over to the log, gave the knot under which the hole was located a vigorous kick, knocking it off, and disclosing the rat's nest with a few little rats, each about the size of a mouse, in it.  I captured two of them and got bit in doing so.  I tied one of them up in my handkerchief.  I took off my fly hook, and put in its place a bait hook.  This I inserted through the skin on the back of the neck of the other little rat, in such a way as not to kill it.  Again I crept back to my pool.  I hung that rat just above the water, so that his hind feet and tail touched it.  These he wiggled, making just such a motion as a live bee dropped into the water makes.  Instantly, there was a mighty swish, and the trout gobbled him.  I struck at the same time, sinking the hook home fast.  My, but I was excited!  `Would I land him?'  I asked myself.  `Would he break something?'  My rod was a light one, not intended for such game, and my line had seen long service.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Fortunately, my leader was a new one, and the hook a strong one.  Round and round that pool went the trout; then up into the air; then down to the bottom; then around the edges of the pool, dangerously near to jagged rocks that projected into it.  The pool was too small for him to make such a fight as would have delighted a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>357</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"I now played him Indian fashion, hauling him hand over hand as he came up, and playing out as he went down.  In one of these rushes, he ran under a projecting rock, some three feet from the surface, and was hidden from me.  I was afraid to pull him out, thinking I might cut the line on some sharp ledge.  I reached my rod, took off the reel, and running the butt end of it down along the line, I brought him away from the ledge and again got the fish into the open water, where we began the battle over again.  At last he tired and gave up the fight.  Slowly I led him into shallow water on a flat rock over hanging the edge of the pool, and then yanked him out onto the land.  Oh, wasn't he a beauty!  Fully twenty four inches long, and broad in proportion.  I put my left thumb under his gills, gripping him around the throat, removed the hook from his mouth, and took him onto dry land.  He struggled hard to get away and cut my thumb until the blood ran.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"My creel was on my left side.  I stuck his nose into the slot in its lid, and lo and behold, he would not begin to go into the slot!  I have just measured that slot and it is three and one-half inches long and two inches wide.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>358</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"About three hundred yards away the stream was fringed with willows and alders.  In these I cast into a good-sized pool and hooked another twelve-inch trout.  I was on the right-hand side of the stream.  I squatted down near the edge of the water to avoid an overhanging willow, and was trying to land my last catch.  This position brought my creel, which was on my left side, immediately over the water.  Just as I got my hand on the trout at the end of my line, I heard a mighty struggle in the creel, and immediately afterward there was a `kerplunk!' and looking around I saw my big trout disappearing in the water.  He had kicked up the lid and jumped out.  How could I have been so idiotic as not to have buckled down the lid?  I have fished with that creel at my side on the McCloud River, along the upper reaches of the Sacramento River, in the big meadows of Plumas County, at Lake Tahoe, for miles and miles along the Kern River, and on the latter, on one occasion, I had in it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>359</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>My fishing experience of many years teaches me that hunger has nothing to do with trout taking the fly or bait.  On one occasion, with my good old friend, Mr. John E. Jackson, a surveyor of Los Angeles, I was camped on Kern River, nine miles above Kernville.  Near camp was a splendid pool, say 75 by 200 feet in extent.  The river poured into it over a flat rock, with a fall of some ten feet at its upper end, and ran out of it in a stream, over a rock ledge, at its lower end.  It was full of fish.  One morning we worked it for a full hour without getting a strike.  Two hours later we saw trout leaping into the air in all sections of the pool.  We hastened to it, and caught all the fish we wanted in a few minutes.  In a short time, they quit leaping as suddenly as they began, and would not longer take a fly.  Every fish we caught was gorged with food, mostly grasshoppers, small fish and frogs.  Hunger could not have induced them to strike when we were catching them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Returning to camp on that occasion, I was wading in the water, near the edge of the stream, casting ahead of me.  I got a tremendous strike and hooked a trout which measured twenty inches in length.  When I got him in my landing net I could not, for an instant, make out what was the matter with his mouth.  On getting my hands on the fish, I was much astonished to see the caudal fin of a trout protruding from its mouth.  I killed the fish by sticking the blade of a penknife into its neck, just behind the head.  We carefully measured it, and cut it open.  The fish it had swallowed was a trout seven inches long.  Its head and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>360</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>On another occasion, I could not get a strike in a pool that was full of trout.  I accidentally snagged one, which was twelve inches long, through the gills, landed it and found it as empty as if it had eaten nothing for hours.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Lake fishing never had much attraction for me.  I always liked to get into the water up to my knees, or even higher, and fish down-stream, casting ahead of me as I proceeded.  Since losing a limb fourteen years ago, that pleasure has been denied me.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>MY FIRST EARTHQUAKE EXPERIENCE</P>
095.sgm:<P>WELL do I remember my first earthquake experience.  It was on a Saturday, early in October, 1868, in San Mateo County.  My father, myself and four Chinamen were digging potatoes in a field on a plateau which sloped from some hills easterly to a ravine in which was laid the track of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company running from San Francisco to San Jose.  Another plateau sloped from the western foothills of the San Bruno Mountains westerly to the same ravine.  The San Bruno Mountains are seven or eight hundred feet high.  They rise abruptly, near the division line between the City of San Francisco and San Mateo County, nearly opposite and east of Lake Merced.  They run southerly and terminate abruptly near Baden, where the old cattle king, Henry Lux, of Miller &amp; Lux, had his home.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Chinamen were digging, my father was sorting and picking up the potatoes and putting them into sacks, while I sewed up the sacks.  All at once my father called to me, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Look at that fool mountain!"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Beginning at the northern end, it was dancing up and down.  The motion was traveling southerly.  While we were looking, my father again said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Look at that freight train!" which was proceeding north on the San Francisco tracks.  The train was weaving up and down like a snake.  The next instant we all saw, coming towards us from the northeast, a wave of earth.  It looked to me to be six feet high.  When it reached us we were all knocked down, the sacks of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>362</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>My father and I sacked and sowed up the potatoes that were dug, gathered the sacks into a pile, covered them with weeds and potato vines, to prevent sunburn, and then went home.  When we got there, my mother called to us to come to the milk-room.  About a dozen pans of milk had been milked that morning.  Every pan was empty.  They did not turn over.  The milk simply splashed out with the swaying motion.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Between the first shock at 8 o'clock in the morning, and midnight, there were thirty-seven distinct shocks, none of them of great severity.  My greyhound, Flora, had a warm spot on a hillside, back of the house, where she would lie in the sun and was protected from the wind which came from the ocean, but passed over her.  A short time before any of us felt any of the additional shocks, she would come running to the house whining with terror.  I suppose that she was that sensitive that, lying on the ground, she detected the coming shock before it manifested itself by motion.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We were located on the fault which heads up in Mendocino County, crosses the bay this side of Sausalito, then heads in a straight line through what is now Golden <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>363</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>When living in San Francisco I felt a pretty strong shake. I remember that the front of a building on California Street near Sansome, occupied by the wholesale liquor house of Schultz &amp; Von Bergin, sprung out from the top, leaving a wedge-shaped opening at the top and extending down some fifteen or twenty feet.  The entire front was immediately taken down and rebuilt.</P>
095.sgm:<P>During my fifty-two years in Los Angeles County, we have never had an earthquake which has done serious damage.  There has been some pretty flimsy construction here, during the building boom of the past several years, and we may not always be as lucky in the future.  We can, however, hope that the country may be spared any serious disaster.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The records disclose that the most serious shocks felt south of Tehachapi were those of 1812 and 1857.  The latter was very severe in the Fort Tejon region, some miles this side of Bakersfield.  In the early '70's, Inyo County suffered severely, several persons having been killed in a building at Lone Pine.  Mr. James C. Kays, now deceased, an old-time resident here and at one time sheriff of Los Angeles County, was asleep in the building where these deaths occurred, but fortunately was not injured.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Geologists all say that Los Angeles County is fortunate in having mostly a shale foundation rather than solid rock.  The latter cannot give, while shale can compress and relieve the strain put upon it.  I do not believe that a human being exists who is not peculiarly affected by an earthquake shock.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>HUNTING TRIP IN ANTELOPE VALLEY CHASING A BEAR ON HORSEBACK AT LAKE TAHOE</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN A FORMER CHAPTER I mentioned the fact that bears were quite numerous in Southern California, in 1875.  In fact, they were numerous all over the State of California.  It is singular that in all my travels and hunting trips on this coast, I never saw but two bears in the natural state, in the open.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On the trip I have mentioned with Mr. A. C. Chauvin to the upper end of Antelope Valley, in Los Angeles County, in 1876, after we had crossed over to the La Liebre Ranch, I was out one morning quite early, looking for deer.  I had worked over quite an extent of territory, climbing up-hill nearly all the time.  I came out on a flat, and crossing to its south side I found it terminated or dropped off into a brushy canyon fully 200 feet deep.  The side of the canyon where I was standing was very abrupt, even precipitous, virtually a cliff.  While examining the country below me, in the bottom of the canyon and some distance from the foot of the cliff, I saw an immense bear, eating acorns off a clump of oak bushes.  I had an old-fashioned Henry rifle, which, for efficiency, when compared with the modern 30-30 Winchester or Savage rifle, was no more than a pop-gun.  I was not looking for bear, but as I had all the advantage of position, I took a shot at Bruin.  I hit him in the shoulder, and had I been using a 30-30 Winchester, would have done him some damage.  He turned his head around and bit at the wound.  I ejected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>365</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The next morning, Mr. Eulogio de Celis, whose father once owned the San Fernando Rancho and the Celis Vineyard Tract in Los Angeles, situated on the east side of Main Street, near Tenth, came into our camp greatly excited.  He had, during the night before, caught an immense grizzly bear in a trap, in the canyon next to the one we were camped in.  He had just killed him and wanted us to go over and see him, which we did.  On examining him, we found the wound in his shoulder, caused by my shot of the day before.  The bullet had penetrated to the bone and had not sufficient driving force to penetrate or break the same.  We assisted Eulogio in skinning him.  The pelt was very large.  The bear's teeth were much worn, and he bore every evidence of great age.</P>
095.sgm:<P>It was not far from this point that Allan Kelly, of the <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Examiner</HI>
095.sgm:<P>On another occasion, accompanied by Mrs. Graves and my daughter, Katherine, I was visiting at Mr. I. W. Hellman's summer home at Lake Tahoe.  Mr. E. S. Heller, Mr. Hellman's son-in-law, was also there.  He proposed that we, Mr. Heller, my daughter and myself, ride up to a lake in a canyon west of Mr. Hellman's place.  We went on horseback, had a pleasant trip, but it was an off day with the trout, and we caught but few fish.  Returning in the afternoon, we had gotten pretty well down towards the mouth of the canyon, when two dogs which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>366</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVIII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>EXPERIENCES AS AN ORANGE-GROWER</P>
095.sgm:<P>SINCE 1882, I have been an orange-grower, under somewhat adverse circumstances.  When we acquired our present home at Alhambra, there was planted on it 6 1/2 acres of seedling oranges, just coming into bearing, also three acres of seedling lemons, which were utterly worthless, and three acres of limes which paid well when they did not freeze.  After a freeze, they bore no fruit for several years.  I removed the limes and lemons and then planted twenty acres of Mission grapes.  When they were six years old and bearing, they died over night, of the Phylloxera.  I dug them up and replanted the ground to navel oranges.  When they got to bearing, I found my section was not a good navel section.  The oranges did not ripen early and would not hang on the trees late.  Consequently, they had to be picked when the market was glutted and brought a low price.  I budded almost all of these navels to Valencias.  I bought more land, and planted more Valencias, until I had thirty acres of oranges.  In 1900, I budded the six and one-half acres of seedlings to Valencias, and they did remarkably well.</P>
095.sgm:<P>During all these years I had a constant fight for water.  Our place originally had four-tenths interest in all the water in Stoneman Canyon, which was sufficient for the original thirty acres until the flow of the canyon decreased to such an extent that four-tenths of it did not much more than furnish water for household purposes.  I acquired water rights in the canyon, and ran a tunnel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>368</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I then acquired land in the southern limits of Pasadena, drilled wells, ran a tunnel, and intercepted the water from them at a point sixty-five feet beneath the surface.  Since 1900, I have had ample water for my own needs and am selling a very considerable amount to the City of Alhambra.</P>
095.sgm:<P>One hears all sorts of stories about the profit or loss in orange growing.  From the time we took possession of our home, in 1882, until January 1st, 1927, I spent, for land, buildings, water rights, water development, pipelines, planting trees, cultivation and care thereof, insurance, taxation and repairs, the sum of $464,396.40; and I have taken in from the sale of the products, etc., the sum of $480,758.89.</P>
095.sgm:<P>During all of that time we have lived there, we have had our own fruit, vegetables, chickens, milk, etc.  Of course, the rent of the house alone, for forty-five years, would be a very large sum of money.  The above figures show that whatever the fifty acres, with their improvements, are worth today, would be net profit.  The place has paid for them.  The rent of the house and our living off the place, to a large extent, would offset interest on the money expended.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There have been times when I have netted as high as $45,000 per year off of oranges.  In 1893, I sold, from the six and one-half acres of navel oranges, thirteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>369</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>My other occupations took so much of my time that I have not been able to give the orange growing business the attention which a man who followed the same for a living could have given it.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIX</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>"DRIVING TEN ELEPHANTS HITCHED TO BANDWAGON"</P>
095.sgm:<P>FROM my earliest recollection, I have never had any trouble in expressing myself in writing and was always good at describing things or incidents.  By the time I was eighteen years old I began to write for a newspaper which was published in Redwood City.  My next experience was, as hereinbefore related, with the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Herald</HI>
095.sgm:<P>Later on, I have written many articles for publication, mostly descriptive of hunting or fishing trips, or automobile tours throughout the state.  I have been surprised that, months after an automobile trip of ten or fifteen days, during which time I made not a single note, I could sit down and write up everything that occurred, giving dates at which we were at various places and what occurred there.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I have never written but one article that was not founded upon fact, and that was three years ago, and was published in the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"DRIVING TEN ELEPHANTS HITCHED TO BANDWAGON GAVE BANKER HIS START"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"When I was 18 years of age, living with my parents in San Mateo County, I was attending St. Mary's College, then on the western outskirts of San Francisco.  A man named Leander Sawyer owned a large body of land in the hills in San Mateo County, back of Redwood City.  He had a great many well-bred horses, of good size and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>371</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"In the spring of the next year he was busy overhauling the circus paraphernalia, ready to take the road with it on his own account.  All the wagons had been painted, the harness burnished up, the horses put in superb condition, and a full troupe of circus performers had been engaged.  The bandwagon was a thing of beauty and a joy forever.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I had driven a six-horse team for Sawyer the year before, during vacation, hauling wood from his place to Redwood City and neighboring towns.  He approached me and offered me $125 a month and found, to drive the bandwagon during the coming season.  Among other things which he had acquired with his circus were ten elephants.  He conceived the notion of hitching these ten elephants to the bandwagon.  It was yet six weeks to vacation time.  I explained the situation to Brother Justin, the president of the college, and he told me to go, as I was well up in all my studies.  I betook myself to Sawyer, and we began to train the elephants to team-work on the bandwagon.  We first started out with two elephants, gradually we added two more, until we had ten in harness.  They were hitched up just like horses with especially made harness.  I sat up in the driver's seat, radiant in a red uniform with brass buttons and gold lace, and held the reins from that point of vantage.  At first they objected to bridle bits in their mouths, but at last accepted them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I drove them around several miles twice a day for a week or more, with the band playing all of the usual circus music.  A clown in fantastic garb sat in a small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>372</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Crossing a ridge we went down a hill and out onto a plain that lay between the mountain and the bay.  Nature was at her best that early spring morning.  The air was redolent with the fragrance of growing things and thousands upon thousands of wild flowers.  The sun was warm, the atmosphere all that a perfect California day in the springtime could bring forth.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"For a time all went merry as a marriage bell.  Quite an audience of ranchers, their wives and children, attracted by the music and the unprecedented spectacle of ten elephants hitched to a bandwagon, thronged the roadside.  As we neared Redwood City, I selected a spot and was ready to swing round on a road which would lead me back to the training camp.  We were at the time on a road between two barley fields.  There must have been a hegira of field mice crossing the road.  The lead elephants were fairly in the body of them.  Some of them ran up the elephants' legs.  When the huge beasts reached down with their trunks to sweep the mice aside, they climbed onto their trunks.  Then things began to happen.  The elephants tossed their trunks into the air, endeavoring to shake off the mice, trumpeting loudly, again and again, and dashed forward with all the speed they were capable of--and I want to tell you that an elephant can travel very rapidly.  Necessity, in his early environment, to keep out of the way of lions, gave him speed.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>373</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"I immediately realized that I had a runaway on my hands.  On we dashed.  The road led into the main street of Redwood City.  To turn the unruly beasts was impossible.  We soon were in the center of that peaceful little town.  Men, women and children, horse-drawn wagons, buggies and carriages, fled in wild disorder.  Dogs did not linger to bark.  They fled unceremoniously to the sidewalk.  All I hoped for was to swing the elephants straight and miss the impedimenta scattered throughout the streets.  I argued that, in time, even an elephant would tire.  In vain, every mahout out in front of me used his goad in an endeavor to stop the frenzied beasts.  Evidently losing heart, all at once I saw the two mahouts on the lead elephants take a quick back somersault onto the edge of the road.  They lit standing up, and, following them, off went every other mahout.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"There I was, clinging to ten crazy elephants, doing a Marathon down a public highway, with a lot of panic-stricken musicians and a clown as passengers.  Taking a look out of the corner of my eye, I saw the clown working his way aft.  He seized the hand-rail that ran around the top of the bandwagon, and let himself down onto the road.  The musicians soon began to drop off in the same manner.  They left their instruments lying in the seats.  Some of the musicians got badly bumped, but none of them was seriously injured.  Every once in a while, when the going got rough, a horn or some other instrument would go overboard.  At last, only the bass drum was left, rolling back and forth between two seats.  It would strike the sounding surface against the seats and give off an alarming boom, which only struck added terror to my elephants.  Redwood City was far in the rear.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"So far, we had not run into anything, not through our efforts, but those on the road fled.  Horses in harness <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Soon we were at Santa Clara and going strong.  Straight down the Alameda we sped, with accelerated speed.  When in the vicinity of Santa Clara College, I saw a stately priest double up and drop to the sidewalk.  I subsequently learned that he was Rev. Father Joseph Acosta, who had a weak heart, and at the sight of my flying elephants he had dropped dead.  He was a most beloved priest from the college.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Now we were in San Jose.  I saw four nuns standing upon the sidewalk, and as I passed, one of them threw up her hands in supplictions, and I heard her cry, `Holy Mary, Mother of God!'  The rest of her prayer was lost to me as we whirled by.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Don't imagine that I was not constantly using my brake.  I threw it on until the hind wheels locked and slid.  I could smell the brake blocks burning, but any pressure from the brake had no effect upon my ten maddened beasts.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"On we went.  In swinging out of the way of a loaded wagon, my bandwagon ripped off the side of an old-fashioned street-car standing upon a siding, which fortunately had no passengers in it.  At a street intersection we collided with and overturned an ice wagon.  The street was full of flying horses and terrified men and women.  A mounted policeman had gotten out in front of us and tried to clear the track.  Springing from somewhere, came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>375</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"We were soon well out of the town of San Jose.  I saw they were tiring and that the race was certainly nearly ended.  They finally eased down to a standstill, more than twenty miles from where the flight began.  I was soon surrounded by all the policemen, sheriffs and deputy sheriffs in San Jose.  I was only too glad to let one of them come up to my seat and hold the reins while I stretched and rubbed my cramped and tired hands.  The officers wanted to know what I was going to do about it.  I told them that that was partly up to them, but that the elephants were now tired and would go along peaceably if kept together; if separated, I would not vouch for them.  I drove out into a field where I could turn around and headed back toward San Jose, under guard of numerous mounted police officers and sheriffs.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The officers concluded that while I was to be under arrest, they would not put me in jail.  I was monarch of all I surveyed, inasmuch as I was supposed to be the only man on earth who had any control over those ten elephants.  Soon my mahouts began to arrive, dusty and disheveled.  They had begged rides from people who were trailing the bandwagon to see the fun.  Each one returned to his position on an elephant's head.  Then the musicians began to limp into port, having begged transportation from passing vehicles, each with a battered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>376</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Coming to a watering trough, the elephants, by loud trumpeting, and flourishing of trunks, gave notice that they were thirsty.  The mahouts secured buckets, and it seemed to me that we fed those elephants half the water in San Jose.  When they had drunk their fill, each one would fill his trunk and squirt it up over his back.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The lumbering beasts were pretty tired.  On the return trip I had a chance to view the wrecks by the wayside.  Here would lie a buggy with one wheel off, then a carriage broken in two and more or less otherwise dilapidated.  Wagons were overturned.  The entire population was on the street watching the procession.  Men and women whose rigs had been injured shook their fists at me.  The band tried to play, but the only instrument that would give forth a sound was the bass drum.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Mr. Sawyer met all the people whose rigs had been injured.  He settled with them promptly.  He settled to the satisfaction of everybody and persuaded the sheriff to discharge me from custody.  He showed them that I was not to blame.  That night Sawyer told me he thought it better to put horses on the bandwagon.  I agreed with him.  Why shouldn't I?  A week later, when the circus took to the road, I was still on the bandwagon, holding the reins over ten as beautifully formed dapple gray horses as any man ever drove.  We toured the entire state, even coming to Los Angeles, San Bernardino and San Diego.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"When college opened, I had to resign my position.  When I returned to Los Angeles, in 1875, it was with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>377</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Here I am yet, in the prime of life (I am only 72 years of age), with a head as white as snow.  My gray hairs began on the day of my elephant drive."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I knew Mr. Leander Sawyer, mentioned in the article, intimately, knew that he lived where I said he did and had a great many good horses, and that he had hauled a circus throughout California until he had to take it for his pay.  I had also driven a team for him during one vacation, hauling four-foot wood from his place to Redwood City.  Everything else in the article is pure fabrication, and was written in derision of an article by my good friend, John S. McGroarty.  Somebody had stuffed him with the story that H. W. Hellman, who had for years been a prominent merchant and afterwards a banker, in Los Angeles, had at one time driven a six-horse stage, and, coming through the Cahuenga Pass, drove it with one hand while he was shooting at Vasquez with a rifle with the other hand.</P>
095.sgm:<P>McGroarty got up quite a story, written in his usual attractive style.  It was as much a fabrication as my elephant story.  There occurs, in an illustrated history of Los Angeles County, published by the Lewis Publishing Company, in 1889, at page 506 thereof, a biography of Mr. H. W. Hellman which, to my knowledge, was written by himself.  After he had prepared it, he brought it to me and asked me to look it over, which I did, and suggested one or two changes, which he made.  That article detailed his life in Los Angeles County.  He went to work for Phineas Banning at Wilmington when he got here, prior to 1860, and in 1862, came to Los Angeles and engaged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>378</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>When I began to write this article I did not know what trend it would take, but it came to me as I proceeded.  Notwithstanding its fictitious nature, I subsequently received letters, from San Jose, from three different people, one of whom said he was a boy and standing near Father Joseph Acosta when he dropped dead from fright.  Another one said he was standing near the nun when she threw up her hands and cried, "Holy Mary, Mother of God!" and the other one claimed to be the son of one of the policemen who assisted in arresting myself and the elephants.  Each of them wanted a loan, which none of them got.  And, by the way, Ned Hamilton, for many years a writer on the <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Examiner</HI>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER L</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>FIRST OIL COMPANY IN LOS ANGELES COUNTY MY EXPERIENCE IN OIL</P>
095.sgm:<P>AS FAR as I can learn, the first incorporated oil company in Los Angeles County was the Los Angeles Pioneer Oil Company, of which Phineas Banning was president and P. D. Downey, who was in the employ of Banning, was secretary.  Nearly everyone in Los Angeles took stock in the corporation.  Stock was issued in it in October, 1865, and so dated.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The company drilled a well, without success, on either the Rodeo de las Aguas or the Brea Rancho, west of Los Angeles.  It also drilled a well on Lot 3, of Block 27, of Hancock's Survey, which, in 1875, was still owned by Mr. Matthew Teed, a carpenter and builder and for many years a member of the City Council of Los Angeles.  From the 10th of June, 1875, until I was married, in October, 1879, I roomed continually in Mr. Teed's house.  He told me about the drilling of this well and that it was not an oil producer.  It was very close to a road which ran out of the city towards Cahuenga Pass, which would be about where First Street is now located.  In the old days, some of us would frequently start out to the San Fernando Ranch for a quail shoot, leaving Los Angeles as early as four o'clock in the morning.  If we happened to pass this oil well when there was a heavy fog, it would be so dark that we could hardly see.  There was a bad hill just beyond the oil well, which we had to descend, and more than once I have gotten out of the vehicle, struck a match and lighted the gas in this well, the casing of which stood up two or three feet above the surface.  It was full <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>380</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The Pacific Coast Oil Company, of which Mr. C. N. Felton, at one time United States Senator from California, was president, and with whom Mr. D. G. Schofield, who was afterwards president, was associated, early operated in Los Angeles County.  The first producing well in the county was brought in by the Pacific Coast Oil Company in Pico Canyon, south of Newhall, in the early '70's.  This well, I understand, is still producing some oil.</P>
095.sgm:<P>During the '80's, Mr. Wm. R. Rowland and Mr. William Lacy, with whom was associated Mr. Hancock Johnston for a time, drilled some producing wells on lands belonging to Mr. Rowland.  They afterwards incorporated the Puente Oil Company, which was one of the early companies in the county.  These wells produced a very high gravity oil.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1894, my brother, H. E. Graves, came here from Spokane, Washington, where he had been located a number of years, to live.  He and I bought stock in the Puente Oil Company and he became its secretary and general manager.  Shortly after that, the Puente Oil Company made a contract to deliver quite a large quantity of oil yearly to the beet sugar factory located at Chino, and a pipe-line was laid from the Puente hills to that point, and large tanks were erected on the Puente hills in which to accumulate oil for the sugar factory.  The company then conceived the idea of building a refinery at Chino and taking off the light products, leaving the residuum, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>381</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>This was the first independent refinery of any size in Southern California, and the Standard Oil Company made it very warm for us for some time.  I finally negotiated with Mr. Miller, then president of the Standard Oil Company, whereby his company agreed to take, at Chino, all of our refined goods at a stated price.  The contract called for all the water-white, distillate and gasoline that we made, and did not limit us as to that which we could make out of our own production.  We immediately made contracts for light oil, and during the eight years that this contract lasted the business was very profitable for the Puente Oil Company.  It paid for its refinery, paid its other debts, which amounted to a very considerable sum, and also paid handsome dividends to its stockholders.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When the contract expired, the Standard would not renew except at a ruinous price at which we could not possibly survive.  The Puente, therefore, got back into the distributing field.  It finally amalgamated with another company, which had quite a large production in the present Brea Canyon field, and made considerable progress in distilling and distributing refined products.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1906, my brother passed away, and a short time afterwards I sold my stock in the company, and it was later purchased by the Shell Oil &amp; Refining Company, who are still producing oil in the old Puente territory.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles field, in 1898, began to produce more oil than it could possibly dispose of.  People were loath to change from coal to oil, as none of them knew how long the oil being produced in the city would last, and there were no storage facilities here.  My firm were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>382</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Hughes, let's get up a company to build tanks and store this oil."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Oil was actually selling as low as ten cents per barrel.  He said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"All right.  I can get oil men to put up some of the capital."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then the question was of a man to run it.  Hughes said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I have just the man, Edward Strasburg.  He has had some experience in the field here."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Strasburg was out of town at that time.  Hughes sent for him and we had a talk.  We incorporated the Oil Storage &amp; Transportation Company, articles being filed November 5th, 1899.  Its directors were J. A. Graves, Edward Strasburg, B. Baruch, A. A. Hubbard and Joseph Maier.  Its capital was $250,000 and was immediately subscribed and paid in.  I was elected president of the company and Mr. Strasburg, secretary and manager.  We bought some land near the Southern Pacific Railroad tracks, just this side of the Los Angeles River, and immediately contracted for the erection of a number of 35,000-barrel tanks.  We soon filled the tanks, and when we could show oil on hand we had no trouble in getting people to change from coal to oil.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The business was quite successful.  People stored oil, for which a storage charge was made them, which they could not have sold for more than ten cents a barrel, and inside of eighteen months they received $1.25 per barrel for it, and everybody was happy.  Subsequently the corporation was sold to S. K. Rindge, and it afterwards passed to the Associated Oil Company, which is now using the tanks we built, for storage purposes.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>383</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1896, Graves, O'Melveny &amp; Shankland had a client for whom we had done considerable business.  We presented him with a bill for our services.  He had no objection to the bill, but said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I am broke and cannot pay it, but I have three acres of land at College and Adobe streets, which I think is oil land.  Let me deed that to you, and call it square."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him that would be all right, and took a deed to it, in my name, and we receipted his bill.  A short time afterwards, Maier &amp; Zobelein, who conducted the Philadelphia Brewery, started an oil well across the street from this property.  I said to my partners, O'Melveny and Shankland, "Let's drill an oil well."  They would not hear to it.  Then I said to them:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"We took this piece of land in full of an $800 fee.  Suppose I pay the firm $800.  The land is in my name.  Will that be satisfactory to you?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Both of them said, "Yes," in one breath.  I paid $800 into the firm and took over the land.  I then made an arrangement with my brother and a man named Nettleton, whom he had known in Spokane, whereby we incorporated the Slocan Oil Company, and I deeded to it the three acres of land, and my brother and Nettleton agreed to drill the first well on it.  It was drilled inside of thirty days by Mel Kellerman, an oil driller, at $1.00 per foot.  I think they used second-hand casing in drilling it, which cost an additional seventy-five cents per foot.  It was but 912 feet deep.  It came in on St. Patrick's Day, 1897, and was one of the biggest wells ever struck in Los Angeles city.</P>
095.sgm:<P>This well came in before the overproduction heretofore mentioned.  We contracted the first 10,000 barrels of oil that we produced to the Los Angeles Railway, of which Fred W. Wood was then superintendent, at $1.50 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>384</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>One amusing thing occurred in connection with the Slocan Oil Company.  We had drilled a well in Mr. Juan Murrieta's backyard, near our three-acre tract.  When the overproduction came on, all the oil producers agreed to shut down their wells for a time.  Mr. Murrieta had attached a gas line to the well and was using gas in his kitchen stove.  During the night, the pressure at the well, it being shut down, became so strong that it blew the valve of the kitchen stove gas line open, and flooded the stove, the kitchen and the cellar.  When the Murrietas got up next morning they were greeted by a flood of crude petroleum that was a sight to behold.  We rallied all the swampers we could get, and helped them dig and mop and clean up, until we got the house in livable condition again.  A heavier valve was put on the gas line and no further trouble occurred.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When the production of these wells that the Slocan drilled became so small that it did not pay the company to handle them, we sold out to the British-California Oil Company, which had bought all the wells in the neighborhood, for $16,000.  My brother and I figured up our profits, and between us, we had made on this one deal a little over $100,000.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Just then I concluded that if I was going to practice law I had to practice law, and if I was going to play oil man I would have to devote all my time to oil, so I gave up oil, except my connection with the Puente Oil <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>385</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>From various small beginnings, the business of oil production has become the largest single industry of Southern California.  Field after field has been discovered.  The production has steadily increased.  Dealers in oil-well supplies have multiplied.  The storage business, which I fathered with the incorporation of the Oil Storage &amp; Transportation Company, has grown enormously.  Thousands and thousands of tanks, of great capacity, have been erected.  Cement reservoirs, partially underground and partially above ground and covered over, have been constructed, so that the storage capacity for crude oil alone, in Los Angeles County, will amount to many million barrels.  There has also been a corresponding increase in storage facilities for refined products.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Refineries of great capacity have been built.  The output of both crude petroleum and refined products has grown to immense proportions.  Shipments of crude and refined oil overshadow everything else that goes out of our San Pedro Harbor.  Gas, in great quantities, has been developed and piped to all of our cities and manufacturing centers, thus furnishing fuel at a cost that cannot be approached in price by coal.  Pipe-lines have been laid from the oil fields to our refineries and our harbor.  Pipe-lines for both oil and gas connect us with the rich oil and gas producing fields of the San Joaquin Valley.  Local land-owners have been enriched by royalties received from leases of oil-bearing property.  In twenty-five years the oil industry has developed a wealth in Los Angeles County which it could not have obtained from any other source in a full century of endeavor.  It has added <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>386</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>All of the substantial oil companies of the State of California have either their headquarters or prominent branch offices in Los Angeles city.  The oil business has made us so rich that we are envied by the population of the northern portion of California.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The end of the oil production here is by no means in sight.  A few years ago, 1,500 feet was the limit depth of the oil wells.  Now we have them 5,000 to 6,000 feet in depth.  The chances are that, if necessary, we will soon be drilling wells 10,000 feet deep.  Improved and heavier machinery and new inventions will annihilate the depth question.  Let no man underestimate the value of oil-production in Los Angeles County.  Sterling companies, amply capitalized, ably managed, scientifically conducted, are in charge of our oil properties.  There have been, and now are, a few excrescences on the corpus of the industry, like Julian and Lewis and the joint product of their peculiar way of doing business, the Julian Petroleum Corporation.  An occasional fourflusher makes his appearance, swindles a few deluded idiots, and passes off the stage to well-earned oblivion.  There is no business which demands greater courage, nerve, foresight, and greater honesty of purpose, than the oil business.  Beware of the promoter who, without capital, expects to hold the majority of the stock in a newly formed corporation, and relies for capital to finance his oil production, on selling a portion of the minority stock in his corporation.  Beware of the man who is not willing to risk his own money in any sort of a venture.  I know it is a common saying of some who have exploited the public in the past, that any man can make money on his own money, but it takes a genius to make money on somebody else's capital.</P>
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095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>INJURY TO KNEE, AND LOSS OF LEG.  DREAMS AFTER OPERATION.  EXPERIENCES AS A CRIPPLE</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN JANUARY, 1900, I injured my knee.  I think the patella was cracked, but not clear across.  I got along with it all right until May, when we had moved down to Terminal Island for the summer.  Starting out fishing one morning, as I went to board our launch I slipped, and the patella broke in two, making a noise like a young cannon.  I was laid up at Terminal Island, a very pleasant place to be.  From my room I could see the ocean front, with bathers in it twice a day, vessels going in and out of the harbor, and material being constantly dumped on the San Pedro breakwater, which was then in course of construction.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The patella was not wired.  My leg was put into a splint and the parts drawn together with adhesive plasters, which were renewed from day to day, and I got what was called a ligamentous union.  I had very good use of the limb; in fact, after I got out one would not have known that I had ever been hurt.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Early in January, 1906, I was at the Westminster Gun Club duck-shooting.  My blind was up on a levee composed of black alkali soil, and was very slippery.  In retrieving a duck, coming out, I slipped on this levee, and rebroke my patella, it again making a noise like a small cannon.  I called to Mr. A. L. Schwarz, whom we all know as "Duffy," who was in the next blind.  I got back into the blind, while he went for our keeper.  Fortunately, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>388</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>After getting well, I got around about as I always did, and rode horseback, went dove, quail and duck shooting, but did not try to do any fishing where I had to wade in a stream, as I had formerly done.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In January, 1913, I was about to take the Pacific Electric car at Fourth and Main streets, for my home in Alhambra, when a man behind me, endeavoring to get out of the way of an automobile, jumped against me as I had one foot on the steps, and drove my poor old knee against some iron part of the car.  It immediately began to hurt, and from day to day got worse.  Finally I had to go to bed with it.  The knee-cap had begun to grow, and was about six inches long and held the leg rigid.  The doctors did not know what to make of it.  Fortunately, Dr. Murphy of Chicago happened to visit Los Angeles.  Dr. Bryant brought him out to see me, and after examination of it he said that it was sarcoma of the knee-cap and advised an immediate amputation.  As I understand it, sarcoma is not exactly a cancer, but a malignant tumor.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Dr. Bryant consulted the leading surgeons of the United States, by wire, and they all advised high excision.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>389</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Dr. Bryant came to my place on Friday, the 22nd of March, and said there was nothing to be done but amputation, and for me to come in to the California Hospital next morning and at 11 o'clock he would perform the operation.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There was an old negro, named George Edmonds, living with us.  I heard him coming up the stairs after the doctor had left me.  I knew that I was going to have misery enough to last me some time, beginning at 11 o'clock the next day, so I said to myself that I might as well have a little fun while I had the chance.  I was reading the <HI REND="italics">Popular Science Monthly</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"Do you 'spose dat's true, Boss?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him, "Sure.  They did that lots of times."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He kept looking at the picture, and finally said:</P>
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095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>390</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"What do you 'spose dey did with that nigger, after dey cut his laig off?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I replied: "Oh, I suppose they knocked him on the head and threw him out for the dogs to eat."</P>
095.sgm:<P>He chuckled to himself, and then said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"De blac man a'ways did git the wuss of it."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then I said to him, "George, how are your legs?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>He replied: "Oh, my laigs is fine, suh, fine.  Nuthin' matter with my laigs.  Only thing bothers me is rheumatiz in my shoulders.  Jes' a little stiff.  Can't wuk de hoe like I usta could."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"You are about my size, aren't you?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>He drew himself up, buttoned his coat, and replied:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Dese is your clos'.  Pretty good fit, ain't it?" and he chuckled.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then I said: "Tomorrow morning I am going to the California Hospital and Dr. Bryant is going to amputate my left leg well up in the hip.  I want you to go in with me.  Dr. Bryant will cut off your left leg and graft it onto me.  I need a leg more than you do."</P>
095.sgm:<P>His eyes rolled until they seemed to be all whites.  He backed up into the open door, and in a terrified voice he said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Boss, you don' want one white laig and one blac laig.  Dere ain't a woman in the country would have anything to do with you dat-a-way."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him that, at my age, that would not make any difference to me.  What I wanted was something to walk on.  Then he held up his left foot, which was enormous, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Boss, jes' look at dat foot.  If you gotten dat foot fasten' to you, you couldn't walk straight.  You go roun' in a circle, and go flipity-flop, flipity-flop, awful like."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him I had talked that over with Dr. Bryant, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>REX CLAIBURNE, CELEBRATED STRAIN OF MISSOURI HORSES<HSEP>GEO. EDMONDS</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>391</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>By this time George's eyes were big as saucers.  "Kin he do dat?" he asked.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Surely," I replied.  "Modern surgery can do anything."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then George pulled his trump card.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Boss," he said, "if dis wuz ma right foot, it 'ud be a'right, but dis lef' foot ob mine is de evilist smellin' foot in America.  It comes in waves.  Dar it is now.  Phew!"</P>
095.sgm:<P>He backed a little further out of the door.  "Dat foot mortifies me to deat' when I'se in company.  You ought to come down to my room and see how'se I sleep.  I tuk a pane o' glass outa de window, at the foot of ma bed, an' I put dat foot out in de air, hopin' a skunk will come along and 'fume it.  Sometimes I gits up in de night and walks in de fresh cow-manure in the cow-c'ral, to sweeten it up a little.  Mrs. Graves wouldn't never 'low dat foot in de house, not a minute, suh, not a minute."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him that medical science and the circulation of white blood through the foot would correct the smell he complained of.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"A'right, den; I'se warned you.  When do you want me to go?" he asked.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told him at eight o'clock next morning, that he could go in with me.  He started off, grumbling to himself, and when he got to the head of the stairs he came back, stuck his head in the door, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Yu'll buy me a pair of crutches, won't you?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Yes," I replied, "I'll get you a wooden leg."</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Don't want no wooden laig," he answered.  "All dese niggers I see wid wooden laigs ain't no 'count.  I'll go on crutches."</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>He went to his own room, took a bath, came back, hunted up Mrs. Graves and asked her if she would loan him a hand-bag.  She asked him if he was going to travel.  He answered:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The boss wants me to go to the hospital with him in the morning.  Dr. Bryant is going to cut off my lef' laig and sew it on de boss when he cuts off his lef' laig, and I want to take some clothes with me."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mrs. Graves replied: "You old idiot, George; don't you know he was only fooling you?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>George had his hat in his hand.  He dashed the hat to the floor, let out a yell, and excitedly said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Wha' for did de boss want to scare dis poor old nigger to deat', I want to know?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>If anyone reading this book will visit my family burying-ground in San Gabriel Cemetery, he will find a granite headstone marked, "George Edmonds."  He was buried at the foot of the graves of my two sons, Selwyn and Jack, whom he fairly worshipped.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Next morning, at eight o'clock, I, with Mrs. Graves and the nurse I had accompanying me, went to the California Hospital.  It is a rather singular thing that, on the trip to town, we saw three one-legged men on crutches.  In each instance, I pointed them out to my wife, and said: "I will join that fraternity tomorrow."</P>
095.sgm:<P>When I got to the hospital the nurse there wanted to shave my hip and thigh well into the groin.  I took my own razor, sat up in bed, and shaved it myself.  When I had finished it she gave me a hypodermic and, I think with more frankness than discretion, said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I guess Dr. Bryant knows what he is doing, but that hypodermic is strong enough to kill a horse."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I told her I was a mule, and it would not kill me.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Towards 11 o'clock they put me on a litter on wheels, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>393</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Do you want to take the anaesthetic here, or inside?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I answered: "Oh, take me in and put me on the table.  I would be too limp to handle, if you gave it to me here."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Just as he went to adjust his apparatus I waved my hand at the assembled nurses and physicians, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"If I don't come back, good-bye."  That was the last I knew of the performance for some little time.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Prior to that, I had never fainted in my life, never been out of my head an instant.  I woke up with the weariest feeling I ever had in my life.  My son-in-law, Mr. Stewart, and a nurse were in the room.  I said to them:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Did they cut off my leg?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>They answered, "Don't talk, don't talk; lie quiet."</P>
095.sgm:<P>That did not satisfy me, and I ran my hand down and found the jumping-off place.  Then I knew it was gone.  The first thing that came to my mind was, how I was going to make a living.  Then I went to sleep.  And I had a very queer dream.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I dreamed that I had a monkey and a hand-organ.  I did not seem to have anyone taking care of me, was living in a shack, and would come up town and grind the hand-organ, and the monkey would take in a few cents in a cup.  One morning I was shaving myself, and I thought the monkey would look better if I shaved him.  I set him up on a chair, lathered his face, and in shaving him I cut his chin.  He bled like a newly struck oil gusher.  He grabbed his cup, and every time it was full would turn it on the floor.  Pretty soon that blood was creeping up to the bed, and onto the bed.  I dreamed that I got onto the bed, stretched myself out, and still that blood was coming.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>394</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The nurse was industriously wiping the perspiration from my forehead.  I was simply wringing wet, and she had to change not only my clothing but the sheets on the bed.  It was the perspiration that I thought was the blood.  I suppose the morphine and the ether caused it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I went off to sleep, and then I had another dream.  I dreamed that a crowd of us had started out to the Perris Valley, shooting, and we came to a place where there was a nice house and plenty of big oak trees.  A man hailed us and asked us to come in.  The oak trees were full of turkeys, and he insisted that one of us get out a gun and shoot some turkeys.  Some one shot a big turkey, and the moment it struck the ground it turned into an ostrich, and lit out into the field.  We shot a half-dozen of them and the same thing resulted.  Then the man showed us an immense field full of ostriches.  We finally left him, and in a short time I woke up.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then I had a third dream, which was the most remarkable of all, and which I will here set out in full.  Two of these dreams I wrote up as soon as I could sit up in bed, and they were published in the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Times</HI>
095.sgm:, under the heading, "Echoes from the Hospital."  My last dream, as published in <HI REND="italics">The Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"People rave over the first night at the opera, or a good theatrical performance, but I have never heard anybody enthuse over their first night in a hospital, after a severe surgical operation.  As the evening shadows fall, you lie upon your back, with your system so filled with ether, or possibly morphine, given to allay the pain, that you have just enough intelligence left to realize that you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>395</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"After awakening from my `Monkey Dream,' I was extremely restless.  My nurse finally gave me a hypodermic, which quieted me.  In a short time I began to feel its effects, and fell off, if not in sleep, in unconsciousness.  Soon my wandering mind was beset with another dream, every detail of which is indelibly stamped on my memory.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I dreamed that Ex-Governor Henry T. Gage and Edward Strasburg (who was then in Europe), and myself, were knocking around Los Angeles one night, when we ran across a street faker with two pigs, one white and the other black in color.  A strip down the back of each of the pigs had been shaved, and one strip painted red and one blue.  When the faker would run his thumb down the back of the white pig, it would whistle better than any whistling artist on the stage.  By touching certain places on the pig's back he got different tunes.  When he pulled the pig's tail it immediately ceased whistling.  Similar treatment of the black pig resulted in her singing operatic selections.  This remarkable animal rendered imitations of Caruso, Tetrazzini, Melba, Mary Garden, and other famous operatic stars, with the greatest ease and apparent delight.  I dreamed that we attempted to buy the pigs, but the owner refused to sell them.  There-upon we beat him up and took them away from him.  My dream had me sitting upon the rear seat of the automobile, with a pig under each arm.  We started out giving concerts.  We went to the principal corners of Spring and Broadway and got immense audiences.  I sat in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>396</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"By and by, a policeman came to arrest us for our treatment of the street faker, and depriving him of his pigs.  Mr. Strasburg bristled up and said, `You cannot arrest me, because I am a 33&deg; Mason.'  Governor Gage began to argue with the policeman and in an instant it seemed to me that he had a stack of law books on the sidewalk half a mile long and several feet high.  He was reading from the political code to a bunch of policemen.  The black pig was restless, and in trying to soothe her, I touched her painted back, and she broke out into song.  This angered one of the policemen.  He threw up his club and said to me, `Take that pig away from here.'  I did not wait for a second command, but told my chauffeur to drive on.  We drove for miles into the country, and I thought I was sitting on the ground on the side of a high hill, with a pig on each side of me.  It was a warm summer night, with a brilliant moon overhead.  Presently a coyote barked.  Then another, from beyond an angle in the hills.  Instantly we were surrounded by what seemed to me all of the coyotes in the world.  They were like flocks of sheep, they were so numerous.  They crowded around us, and yowled and barked and made night hideous.  My pigs were much alarmed, and snuggled close to me, champing their jaws in fear and terror.  I, too, was alarmed.  I did not know what moment these beasts would attack us.  I concluded to serenade the coyotes.  I touched up the white pig, and he whistled his very best.  The coyotes were entertained.  They sat on their haunches and never moved.  The pig whistled long and furiously.  I happened to touch a particular spot on his back when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>397</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:he broke out into rag-time.  This electrified the audience.  Those coyotes stood up on their hind legs, and grasping each other with their forelegs, they danced back and forth, and up and down the hill with the greatest apparent joy.  When I saw my pig was getting tired, I pulled his tail and he stopped.  Then the coyotes broke out into wild applause.  They barked and yowled and howled, singly and in unison, for quite a while.  Then they did it all over again.  Finally they broke off their frenzy and quieted down and sat looking at us, as if they expected more.  I now ran my thumb down the black pig's back, and she broke out into operatic song.  Then it seemed to me that every one of those coyotes had on `glad rags.'  They were decked out in Easter hats and garments, gowns, full-dress suits, silk hats, etc.  My black pig surpassed herself.  Song after song poured forth in voice rich in tone, and full in volume.  When I saw that she was well-nigh exhausted, I pulled her tail and she desisted.  Then pandemonium reigned.  That entire band of coyotes was simply beside itself with delight, and they acted as a human audience does in a theater when encoring a stage favorite.  I kept up the serenade until faint crimson streaks began to appear in the eastern sky.  All at once that vast assemblage of coyotes faded away.  It just seemed to move off without motion, without effort, and disappeared entirely from view.  Then a huge white cloud floated up the hill, and I felt myself being carried away.  I seemed to be moving swiftly through the air.  I felt a little scratching at my right side, accompanied by alarmed grunts.  My white pig was endeavoring to stay on the cloud.  I threw out my arm to catch him, but he fell away.  I must, however, have touched his back, for he began to whistle.  I could hear him whistling, going down, down, down, but always whistling.  Then, on the other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>398</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"I awoke.  A dim light was burning.  My white-capped nurse was bending over me, wiping my face with a cool wet cloth.  `You have had a nice long sleep,' she said to me.  I looked at her, lifted my head from my pillow, threw out an arm on each side of me, bringing them to my body as if to grasp something, and said to her, `Where are my pigs?'"</P>
095.sgm:<P>There was something remarkable about that dream.  Everybody that knew Henry T. Gage in his lifetime knew that he was an excellent lawyer.  They knew, furthermore, that he never went into a court room, to even argue a demurrer before a justice of the peace, without a wonderful array of law books; and in this dream I had him have law books stacked up on Fourth Street from the corner of Spring almost to Broadway.  It was peculiar that, even in my dreams, I should bring out that peculiarity of my friend Gage.</P>
095.sgm:<P>After these "Echoes from the Hospital" were published in <HI REND="italics">The Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>After my operation I had hundreds of letters and telegrams from all over the country, but the one that I especially prize came from Aleck Smith.  He was a captain, working for the Wilmington Transportation Company.  He and I had often taken trips to the Islands on various vessels.  He was an immense Scotchman, with a burr in his voice of such immensity that when he talked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>399</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"Alexr. Smith, Str. Hermoso.<HSEP>San Pedro, Cal. April 18, 1913. </HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>"Mr. Graves, my Dear old friend.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"i am Sorrey to hear that you had to go to the Dry dock for repairs and I here that you lost one of your Proppellers.  their is lots of ups and downs in this Worald, anyhow.  i hope to see you down around here with one Whell, anyhow excuse these few lines from Bothering you.  hoping to hear of your Launching and Repairs all fixed.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Yours trueley,</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Alexr. Smith,</P>
095.sgm:<P>"337 11th St., San Pedro."</P>
095.sgm:<P>After my last dream, I woke up rather restless, and the nurses wanted to give me another hypodermic.  I said, "No; I am going to grind this thing out now, by myself."  I pretended to go to sleep, but I lay there thinking.  I said to myself, "You are not the only man in the world that has lost a leg.  You have got to make the best of this and get along as well as you can."  And I there and then determined not to wail and weep, but to meet the situation cheerfully.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On Monday morning, two days after the operation, Mr. Karl Triest, of Haas, Baruch &amp; Company, came to see me, and when he got inside of the door he burst out crying.  As I took his hand, I said, "What on earth is the matter with you, Karl?  Has sugar gone down?"</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>400</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>By and by, Henry O'Melveny came in, and he, too, was in tears.  Somehow or other, I could not josh Henry, and he sat there holding my hand and neither of us able to articulate.  Finally I told him, "I am all right, Henry, and am going to pull through."  Everybody that came in, I met cheerfully.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. V. H. Rossetti, then cashier of the Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank, came in one morning as Dr. Bryant was dressing the limb.  He had left in the wound a drainage tube about as big as a garden hose.  He took hold of the end and yanked it out, and it made a noise like "kerplunk!"  I made no outcry, while it hurt terrifically, but there was a spasm of pain passed over my face, at which Rossetti fainted, crumpling up like a wet rag.  He soon came around, however.</P>
095.sgm:<P>My former partner, Mr. Shankland, had not been informed that the operation was going to take place.  Mr. T. E. Newlin, who had just been to see me on the Sunday morning after the operation, went over to see Mr. Shankland, who was in his garage at the time, and told him that I had had my left leg amputated.  He dropped as if he had been shot, and on coming out of it fainted again, and coming out of the second, fainted a third time.  When I heard of these things I was afraid that I was going to be the death of everybody that I ever knew.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Before I left the hospital, the nurse was wheeling me around the grounds in a wheel-chair.  I saw poor wretches who had survived various operations, sitting around, looking like sick cats, and the day before I was to come home I got the nurse to bring me two big pieces of pasteboard, and I printed on one side of each of them: "I lost a leg.  What did you lose?"  And I hung them onto my chair.  As the nurse wheeled me around all of them were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>401</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>They took me home in an ambulance.  George Edmonds, my old negro friend, had built a runway, parallel with the house, up onto the steps, the house being elevated about four and one-half feet from the ground, so that he could wheel me into the house or out of it.  I was about one month convalescing, and then got around on crutches.  It was quite an undertaking to go up and down stairs on crutches.  The first time I went to come down, I simply sat down and went down on my hands, with one foot out in front of me, sliding the crutches before me; and when I went to go upstairs, I sat down on the lower steps and carried myself up on my hands, the same way.</P>
095.sgm:<P>But I was soon getting around, and the first day I came into the bank Mr. I. W. Hellman happened to be there, and he was the most astonished man in the world when I walked in on him, on crutches.  Of course I could not use an artificial limb for several months.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Prior to the amputation, I had had a number of X-ray pictures of my knee taken.  I let Dr. Murphy have these plates, and he lectured in the East, before some celebrated medical society on the case, and published articles in the medical journals.  He declared that mine was the only case of sarcoma of the knee known to medical science.  So it seems that, even in my distress, I had to lead the procession.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Collis P. Huntington financed research work for the discovery of a specific for sarcoma.  Dr. Coley, of New York, I think was in charge of the work, and the specific as finally perfected was Coley's serum.  He heard of my case, sent Dr. Bryant a vial of the serum, and strongly urged him to use it and not amputate, but I had gotten in such condition that the doctors were afraid that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>436</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>402</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>About a week after I was taken home from the hospital, Dr. Bryant began to treat me with Coley's serum.  It is most powerful stuff, and a drop of it, I guess, would kill an elephant.  They have to dilute it, and dilute it, and dilute it, many times, to get the proper proportion for one dose for a human being.  It was given me by hypodermic injection in the right hip.  In five minutes after I had been treated, there was a lump formed, where the hypodermic had been used, as large as my fist and as hard as a rock.  My temperature immediatly went up as high as 105 to 106, and for about ten hours after treatment I suffered as I never did before.  At, say, the end of ten hours, all ill effects vanished except that the lump on the hip was fully 24 hours in disappearing.  When the ill effects of the serum had vanished, I felt as if I had been beaten all over with a club, and was almost powerless to move, but a night's rest restored me to my usual condition.</P>
095.sgm:<P>About an hour after I received the first treatment, I told the nurse that there was something wrong with my stump, that it felt as if it were bleeding.  It had all but healed up.  There was just the slightest sign of an opening, and from time to time a drop or two of bloody serum would be discharged from it.  There was never any pus in the wound.  When I complained to the nurse, she investigated and found that the bandage on the stump was thoroughly wet, and on taking it off it appeared that every drop of moisture that was in the stump, including bloody serum, had been discharged.  I suppose this was a direct result of the serum.  At any rate, after that day, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>403</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>After being treated for four weeks they withdrew the Coley serum treatment for one month, and then began with it again.  On the second treatment, which consisted of two hypodermics a week for another month, it had no appreciable effect on me except that, when I received the serum, a very small, but by no means painful, lump came up on the hip for a very short time.  Dr. Bryant, fearing that the serum had lost its strength, tried it on some one else, and it was just as powerful as the first day I used it.  I suppose that I had become entirely immune to it.  I am very thankful that we used the serum because it, without doubt, destroyed any of the sarcoma poison that was in my system.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I had many curious experiences while on crutches.  I used to walk from the bank over to the California Club, to lunch, and back again, on my crutches, the distance being fully a quarter of a mile.  One day, as I came out of the bank door, there was a poor fellow, with both legs off, sitting on the sidewalk selling lead pencils, a man with one limb standing on crutches talking to him, and just as I stepped out of the door, two other men, each of whom had lost a limb, came along and stopped to talk to the pencil vendor.  I almost ran into them, as I came out of the door, and I said, "Boys, let's have a convention," which raised a laugh, and I gave each of them a dollar and passed on.  But it was a rather singular thing that there were five men, one of whom had lost both his legs, and the other four had lost one limb apiece, who should happen to get together in one spot.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Not long afterwards, I had started over to the Club <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>438</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>404</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Oh, Mama, see that poor old man with only one leg.  Can I give him my ten cents?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>On another occasion I had gotten to the corner of Spring and Fourth streets and was waiting for the traffic to swing my way.  While I was standing there on crutches, a little, old, gray-haired woman came up to me, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Mister, did you lose your leg in the Civil War?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>There was something about her that made me think that she might feel a little happier if I said yes, so I said, "Yes, ma'am."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then she came back, "What battle?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I answered, "Gettysburg."  (I was about twelve years old when the Battle of Gettysburg was fought.)</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then she said: "Did you?  My husband was killed at Gettysburg.  What troops did you serve with?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Like a flash I replied: "Twenty-ninth Iowa Volunteers."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then she said, "Who under?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then the water began to get pretty deep for me, but all at once I remembered that Meade was in general command, and I replied, "Meade."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then she came back with, "What portion of the field were you on?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>I replied, "Right opposite Pickett's brigade."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Just then there was a chance for me to move on, and with a hasty, "Good-bye, madam," I got across the street faster on crutches than I ever did with my natural limb; and then and there I vowed never again to utter a fabrication simply because I thought it was going to make the other party feel better.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In 1915, I was up at Mammoth, and they all told me that I ought to go up to Convict Lake, that the fishing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>439</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>405</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I got out on a flat rock and caught two very nice trout, when, without a moment's warning, the blackest and thickest clouds I think I ever saw, enveloped us.  The wind began to blow from several directions at once, and in no time at all rain was falling in torrents.  I sheltered myself behind a pine tree, as well as I could, but got thoroughly drenched.  In fifteen or twenty minutes the rain ceased, but the wind still blew and the waters of Convict Lake were lashed to foam, and the waves were running as high as one's head.  Of course, the fishing was ruined.  So I again removed my limb, tied it onto the horse, and went back to the hotel.</P>
095.sgm:<P>If a good strong person will stand by me, and hold his hands like a stirrup, by putting the stump in his hands, I can mount a horse very readily.  While of course I have not much grasp of the animal on my left side, still, I have ridden enough to be able to ride even in my present condition.</P>
095.sgm:<P>An artificial limb is a poor excuse, but one can get around on it.  My chief objection to using crutches is that one cannot use his hands at the same time; and as my business association has been with members of the Jewish race for so many years, I find myself affected in talking when I travel on crutches.  It was some relief to me to get an artificial limb so I could hold my own in conversation.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>THE LOS ANGELES BAR.  LEGAL ANECDOTES</P>
095.sgm:<P>I HAD intended to say something about the Los Angeles Bar as I found it, in 1875, but it has been crowded out by other things.  The principal paying business at that time was done by the firms of Glassell, Chapman &amp; Smith, Thom &amp; Ross, Brunson &amp; Eastman, Frank Ganahl, and Howard &amp; Hazard.  Mr. John D. Bicknell, Judge Albert M. Stephens and Stephen M. White were comparatively newcomers, and were gradually getting acquainted and securing a practice.  Other than those mentioned, of course, there were a number of lesser lights who practiced principally in the police and justice's courts.</P>
095.sgm:<P>One of my first acquaintances here was Don Mateo Keller, a shrewd Irishman who had been educated for the priesthood.  He was a client of the firm, and he and I became quite chummy.  He was a delightful conversationalist, a most interesting and entertaining man.  He was a large property-owner, a prosperous vineyardist and wine-maker, and a man of affairs generally.  He was eager to hear from me about the great lawyers of San Francisco.  I imparted such information as I had about them, to him, and from him obtained a pretty good idea of the practice, habits, ability and standing of the members of the Los Angeles Bar, most of whom have now passed away.  Don Mateo had a name for each of the local attorneys.  For instance, he called Andrew Glassell "Mucho Frio," on account of his austere manner.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Col. Geo. H. Smith he called "Circumlocution."  Mr. A. B. Chapman, in my estimation, was always a most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>441</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<illus entity="a095-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JUDGE E. M. ROSS</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>407</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Capt. Thom, Judge Ross's uncle and partner, he called "Redundans," and when I asked him why, he replied: "Well, if Capt. Thom wanted to ask a witness if that was the same horse Pedro Lopez had, he would say, `Are you quite sure, in your own mind, beyond the slightest hope, expectation or possibility of a doubt, that this is the same identical horse that this man, Pedro Lopez, had?'"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hon. E. M. Ross, afterwards United States Circuit Judge for this district, he called "Generalissimo," on account of his military bearing and appearance.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Col. Jim Howard he called "Basso Profundis," on account of his deep bass voice.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Will D. Gould, who was then just as ardent an advocate of temperance as he was when he recently died, he dubbed "Sanctimonium Sanctimonious."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Frank Ganahl was, with him, "Punchinello," and W. H. Mace he termed "Bulbus."  He was well-named, for there was something about the man that looked like he was about to sprout.</P>
095.sgm:<P>His intimate friend, Judge Brunson, he called "Nervio Bilio," and Gen. Volney E. Howard, "Ponderosity," referring more to his physical rather than to his mental make-up.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Thomas H. Smith, or "Long Tom Smith," as we called him, he called "El Culebra."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Horace Bell was "Blusterissimo," and Judge Sepulveda, "Mucho Grande."  His very intimate friend, I. W. Hellman, not a lawyer, but a banker, he always called "Valiente."</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>408</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I asked him what he was going to call me.  I have frequently referred to the old Remington typewriter which I used.  It was much noisier than the modern ones, and when running at rapid speed it made a sound like "diddle daddle, diddle daddle."  When I put that question to him he answered promptly, "Diddle Daddle," and with him that remained my name until the day of his death.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge Sepulveda was District Judge, and Judge H. K. S. O'Melveny, father of Henry O'Melveny, was County Judge.  Judge O'Melveny was a courtly gentleman, a friend and assistant of young and aspiring attorneys, the especial favorite of country jurymen, but I always thought a little given to bearing down on the lawyers for the jurors' benefit.  He was expressive in his manner, and earnest in his rulings and in all of his proceedings.</P>
095.sgm:<P>One of the funniest things I ever saw occurred in Judge O'Melveny's court room.  A Mexican had been convicted of grand larceny in stealing horses.  He couldn't talk English, and Judge O'Melveny called on Capt. Haley to interpret the sentence to him.  To appreciate the story you should have known Haley.  He had been a surveyor, a sea captain, a druggist, a doctor, and was now a practicing lawyer, and was himself a witness in nearly every case he ever had.  It was of him that Col. Jim Howard, in an argument before a jury, said: "But we are told by Salisbury Haley, Surveyor Haley, Captain Haley, Druggist Haley, Dr. Haley, Lawyer Haley, Witness Haley, that the whole story is a fabrication."  He was short of stature, a rotund, meek-appearing man, and was a perfect picture of innocence personified, as he advanced to the prisoner's dock.  He stood up by the side of the Mexican.  To look at the men as the judge addressed them, no one could have told which was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>409</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"You have been charged by the grand jury of this county with a most heinous offense--"</P>
095.sgm:<P>(Haley threw up his finger in sign that he had enough, and interpreted that to the Mexican, who replied, "Si, si, sen&tilde;or.")</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then the judge, in the same impressive manner, still looking at Haley, and pointing his finger at him, continued: "You have been tried by an intelligent jury of your peers--"</P>
095.sgm:<P>(Signs from Haley and further interpretation, the Mexican again answering, "Si, si, sen&tilde;or," and mind you, the attention of the Mexican was fixed on Haley, not on the court.)</P>
095.sgm:<P>"And after a fair and impartial trial, at which you were ably defended by a loyal attorney, this jury, after long and mature deliberation, has found you guilty of the offense charged.  Have you anything to say why sentence should not be passed upon you?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>(More interpretation, and "Nada," with a shrug of his shoulders, from the prisoner.)</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then the judge continued: "It is a shame that a fine, intelligent-looking man like yourself cannot find something better to do than horse-stealing, and I trust that the sentence I am about to impose upon you will deter others from following your example, and that your incarceration will be for your moral welfare--"</P>
095.sgm:<P>(Sign from Haley, and long interpretation.  "Si, si, sen&tilde;or, esta bueno," from the prisoner.)</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I will, however, temper mercy with justice in dealing with you, and it is the sentence of this court that you be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>445</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>410</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>(More interpretation, "Si, si, sen&tilde;or, esta bueno, muchas gracias," from the prisoner.)</P>
095.sgm:<P>No other human being on earth could have interpreted that sentence with the meekness and humility that Haley did, and as the judge never took his eyes off him, any onlooker would have thought that Haley was going to the penitentiary for life.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Col. Howard was a man of rare wit and great general information.  He was a clever magazine writer and a shrewd criminal lawyer, and worked hard upon his cases.  He and Col. E. J. C. Kewen, an orator of such rare qualities that he deserves a place in the niche of fame by the side of Thomas Starr King and E. D. Baker, were partners for years as Kewen &amp; Howard.  They enjoyed a lucrative criminal practice.</P>
095.sgm:<P>A vigilance committee, led by a French barber named Signoret, who was huge in frame and had a hand like a ham, and had oratorical ambitions, and preferred revolution to lawful government, took four men out of the county jail and hung them.  They thought that Kewen &amp; Howard were too successful in defending criminals, so they passed a resolution that they should hang Kewen and Howard.  The next day Col. Howard met Signoret in front of the Downey Block.  He had a habit of standing while talking with his feet well apart, and his head and shoulders bent forward, and of twirling his eye-glasses, which he carried suspended from a long gold chain.  "Signoret," he said, "I understand you are going to hang Kewen and Howard?"  Signoret was perplexed and hedged a little.  "Yes," he answered, "that was our intention last night."  "Come, now, Signoret," said Howard, "we are old friends; be generous; let's compromise.  Hang Kewen; he's the head of the firm."</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>411</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Some lawyer, I forget who, now, sued Don Miguel Leonis, litigious Basque sheep-owner, for a twenty-five thousand dollar fee for services rendered.  He was trying his own case before a jury, and faring badly.  Col. Jim Howard, by chance, came into the court room.  The plaintiff, who was his own lawyer, in desperation, without consulting Howard, put him on the stand to prove the value of his services.  He stated what he had done for Leonis, and asked Howard if, in his opinion, $25,000 was a fair compensation for services rendered.  Howard replied: "My practice has been of such a vagabond, beggarly nature, that I am hardly in your class, but if I should earn a $25,000 fee, I would die of heart failure; but, knowing you and your legal ability, and knowing the litigious character of Don Miguel, I cannot realize any services that you could have rendered him that would be worth over two dollars and a half, unless you had killed him; then, by a stretch of your conscience, you might have charged him five dollars."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Among the thoroughly able men at the bar was Frank Ganahl, "Punchinello," as Keller called him.  He also was quick-witted.  He was arguing an appeal in the supreme court, for a defendant convicted of that most revolting crime, rape.  There is usually some idiot of a lawyer sitting around the court room, whose sole ambition is to sneak up to some lawyer making an argument, and whisper advice to him.  At this time the interferer chanced to be Judge Delos Lake of San Francisco.  He would pluck Ganahl by the coat-tail, and in a stage whisper advise him of some point to be made in his argument.  This occurred six or seven times, much to Ganahl's interruption and annoyance, and he finally said: "Your Honor, my friend, Judge Lake, who, by the way, is an eminent authority on the law and the crime of rape, suggests to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>447</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>412</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>When I came to Los Angeles, and for years afterwards, Long Tom Smith, or "El Culebra," kept all the lawyers in the city busy on different cases, he having one side of each of them.  They were generally cases with little in them but worry.  He did all the writing and copying on his side himself.  We all wondered how he did it.  He wrote a peculiarly beautiful hand.  It was always the same, page after page, and mile after mile, no variation in any letter.  While it was easy to read, there was something snaky about it, something uncanny, and you were always looking for something treacherous in his writings, and you generally found it.  He invoked every possible motion known to the practice, and invented many that were not known to it.  He kept clients, judges and lawyers in a constant uproar.  He never acknowledged defeat, and "e'en though vanquished, he could argue still."  When he finally got to trial, he wore everybody out, and created a general state of insubordination and revolt.  He could not brook ridicule.  On one occasion he was taking a deposition, and Eastman was opposing him.  He had a great habit of making copious longhand notes, and while he was writing out the last answer to a question, he would start another question.  "Don't you remember," he said to the witness, and he kept on writing.  He did this three different times without finishing the question, and just after his last "don't you remember," Eastman, in his most impudent and tantalizing way, added "Sweet Alice, Ben Bolt?"  Tom was hot in a minute, tore up his notes, denounced Eastman's levity, and would not proceed with the deposition.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The man who could get more pure fun out of the practice of law than anyone else was Judge Anson Brunson.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>448</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>413</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>He had demurred to a complaint upon one occasion, and when the case was called, he said to the court that he would submit the demurrer without argument.  Not so, his opponent.  He must argue the question.  Vital rights were at stake.  The law must be vindicated.  "All right," said Brunson, "I waive the opening."  Then the other fellow argued everybody out of the court room, and the judge almost off the bench, with dreary platitudes and citation of authority after authority, that did not apply, and when he sat down, Brunson arose, took a drink of water, shifted his papers, and with a merry twinkle in his black eyes, said in the most aggravating way: "Your Honor, I still submit the demurrer without argument."  "Demurrer sustained," said the court.</P>
095.sgm:<P>We were trying a case of the Union Anaheim Water Company against the Stearns Ranchos Company, a case involving water rights at Anaheim.  Gen. Volney E. Howard opposed us.  He called as a witness, George Hansen, an old-time surveyor, who had laid out the town of Anaheim.  As the witness advanced to the stand, General Howard remarked of him, "The father of Anaheim."  He asked him the usual preliminary questions, and then came this question: "Mr. Hansen, when did your intercourse with Anaheim begin?"  Like a shot out of a cannon, Brunson was on his feet, with his hand up, and in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>449</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>414</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Like many other men of genius, Brunson lacked a balance wheel.  He destroyed the vital forces of his physical system, deadened all the moral instincts of his nature, by indulging in the worst sort of dissipation.  He let power and influence and standing and character slip from his grasp, and he died long before his time, as much from the disappointment, which he keenly felt, as from any physical ailment.</P>
095.sgm:<P>H. T. Hazard was a member of the firm of Howard &amp; Hazard.  He enjoyed a lucrative practice, especially among the native Californians.  I think the following story concerning him is worth relating.</P>
095.sgm:<P>An utterly disreputable fellow, named William Cape, who ran a low saloon and a lower lodging-house, but who was extremely useful at election time to certain of our politicians, because of his peculiar ability to deliver his ward to his political friends by a much larger majority than the ward contained residents, qualified on a bond for $5,000 in a probate proceeding, notwithstanding the fact that he had no property and ran his business from hand to mouth.  The qualification was had before Judge Albert M. Stephens, who was county judge, with probate jurisdiction.  Knowing the utter financial worthlessness of the man, the oath surprised Stephens, and he looked the matter up and charged the man, before the grand jury, with perjury.  He was indicted, convicted, and sentenced to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>450</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>415</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I do not charge that Mr. Hazard had anything to do with Cape's escape.  Hazard was an honest man, and would not have done anything involving the slightest moral turpitude.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In those old days there lived in San Diego a lawyer named Wallace Leach.  He possessed as much ability as all the men I have previously mentioned, combined.  Dissipated, but industrious, with low instincts,yet not lacking in some admirable traits of character, he was a queer compound of gall and vanity.  He was about four feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>451</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>416</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I was in the district court room in San Bernardino County, one hot summer day.  Some San Diego Jewish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>452</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>417</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:merchants, whom Leach represented, had attached some cattle in that county.  Certain parties replevined the cattle, claiming to own them.  This claim and delivery action was being tried before a jury, with the late W. R. McNealy of San Diego County sitting as judge in San Bernardino County.  A local attorney represented the plaintiff, and Leach the defendant.  All during the trial this attorney tried to bulldoze Leach, but, figuratively speaking, Leach simply walked all over him.  In his address to the jury, plaintiff's attorney used up all of his time lambasting the Jews--these Jews in particular, and all Jews in general.  Leach replied to him in a close, clear, forcible argument, making every point in the case in a most intelligent and winning manner.  He then proceeded to reply to counsel's attack upon the Jewish race, and he paid those people the most beautiful tribute that it was ever my pleasure to listen to.  He traced the history of the Jewish race from its earliest beginning; showed how they had been persecuted; how they were denied the privilege of owning real estate, and were compelled to be merchants, possessing only property which could be moved upon a moment's notice; dwelt upon their many admirable traits of character, the success achieved by them under the most difficult circumstances, and the high standing that they had attained throughout the world.  He could not, however, resist the chance for a joke, and suddenly descending from the sublime to the ridiculous, he said: "And coming down to our own times and our own people, what other race of men on the face of God's green earth, except the Jews, could sell a forty-dollar suit of clothes for eight dollars, and get rich at it?"  The jurymen were mostly farmers, sitting there with their coats off, and they literally howled with delight.  Judge McNealy in vain pounded his desk and rapped for order, and it was some time before Leach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>453</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>418</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Leach, in a state of intoxication, was thrown from a horse which he was attempting to ride, and after lingering for some time, died of his injuries so received.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There used to be many good stories circulated about the lawyers of San Francisco.  For instance, it was said of John B. Felton, one of the ablest men they had there, who was rather careless about his debts, that on one occasion a creditor found him in his office with quite a stack of gold lying before him on his desk.  He complimented him and said, "Now, Mr. Felton, I suppose you are going to pay me that note you owe me?"  Felton replied, cheerfully, "No, no; this money is for pleasures yet to come."</P>
095.sgm:<P>One could fill a book with anecdotes of this kind, but as many of them have appeared in the histories of the bench and bar, it would be useless to repeat them here.  There are two anecdotes, however, regarding Judge T. B. McFarland, justice of the supreme court of the state, which I have never seen in print, and which are worthy of preservation.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge McFarland was a pioneer who arrived in California in the early '50's.  He came from Pennsylvania and had just been admitted to the bar of that state.  He engaged in placer mining, near Grass Valley, for some little time, and then took up the practice of his profession.  He served as district judge of Nevada County.  He afterwards removed to Sacramento and later on was elected judge of the superior court of that county.  In 1886, he was elected justice of the supreme court of the State of California.  He served a twelve-year term, and was reelected for another twelve-year term, but died on September 15th, 1908.  Judge McFarland was a hard-headed, able jurist.  His opinions were always direct, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>454</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>419</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>He and Judge McFarland were passengers on the Sutter Street cable car, one quiet Sunday afternoon.  They wanted to get off at Kearny Street.  Fearing that the car was not going to stop, Judge McFarland got up and rang the bell vigorously, but unfortunately, he got hold of the cord that rang up fares, instead of the bell cord.  He and Van Fleet got off the car, and when they reached the sidewalk the conductor came rushing over to them, shook his fist at Judge McFarland, and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Look here, man, I want you to understand that I ring that bell!"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge McFarland looked at him in astonishment, and in a loud voice, that could be heard for a block, he said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Well, ring it, and be damned to you!"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then, turning to Van Fleet, who was laughing inordinately, he said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"What the hell do you suppose is the matter with that fellow?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge Van Fleet then explained to him that he had been ringing up fares on him instead of pulling the bell-cord.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>455</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>420</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Hell, is that so?" said McFarland.  "Well, let's wait here a minute."</P>
095.sgm:<P>In those days, the Sutter Street car ran down to Montgomery Street, and was there turned around by the conductor and motorman, on a turntable, and then proceeded up Sutter Street.  In a few moments the car from which they had alighted came back, and when it stopped at the corner of Kearny, Judge McFarland went up to the conductor and handed him a dollar, saying: "My man, I did not know I was ringing up fares.  I guess that dollar will make us all right."</P>
095.sgm:<P>After the recall law was passed, a petition for the recall of a councilman named Davenport was filed in Los Angeles, candidate named, as the law required, a special election was had, and Davenport was voted out and his opponent voted in.  He contested the right of the successful candidate to the office.  The superior court held against him.  He appealed to the supreme court of the state.  Judge J. S. Chapman was arguing the case and contending that the recall law was unconstitutional.  He had stated his position quite fairly, when Judge McFarland, who was presiding in Department 2, where the case was heard, interrupted him and said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Excuse me, Mr. Chapman, let me understand this law.  You say they can file a petition against a man, not charge him with any crime, nominate a candidate to run against him, have an election, and, if the candidate gets more votes than the incumbent, the incumbent has to step down and out--is that the law?"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Chapman replied: "Yes, sir, that is the law which I am contending is unconstitutional."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge McFarland then said: "They don't charge him with crime, give him a day in court, or have any trial--just throw him out by vote?"</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>456</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>421</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"That is the law," said Chapman.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Judge McFarland grunted, and in quite an emphatic manner said: "That's a hell of a law!"</P>
095.sgm:<P>Immediately perceiving his mistake, he said: "Excuse me, Mr. Chapman, I did not mean to say that.  It just slipped out."</P>
095.sgm:<P>Chapman replied that no apology was necessary, and that he had the same opinion of the law, and if he were outside of the court room he would probably express his opinion more vigorously than the judge had.</P>
095.sgm:<P>When Judge McFarland began his mining venture near Grass Valley, his partner in the venture was Mr. J. B. Stetson, afterwards and for many years a member of the firm of Holbrook, Merrill &amp; Stetson of San Francisco.  Mr. Stetson told me a story so marvelous as hardly to be credited.  When a young man he was a tinner and conducted a shop in Boston.  A friend of his came to California and, like all the other pioneers, went to mining.  He wrote to Stetson, enclosing a drawing and asking him to make him two contrivances such as his drawing outlined.  He had an idea that he could use the same in the deep pools on the streams where they were mining.  Stetson made up two of the contrivances, which were of tin and about six feet in length, and sent them to his friend via Panama.  The friend acknowledged receipt of them, and later on Stetson heard that he had died.  He never knew whether the implement was a success or not.  After he came to California, he and Judge McFarland were mining on a small stream which emptied into a larger one.  One day after lunch they were resting upon a grassy bank on the side of the larger stream.  There was a clump of willows in the middle of the stream, and every once in a while something bright and shining would emerge from the water and sink again.  They watched it for a time, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>457</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>422</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>As I practiced law nearly thirty years, it may not be amiss to relate my first glimpse of a court room at the first trial I ever witnessed.  While living at Marysville, and when about twelve years old, my mother insisted on my attending dancing school.  One Madame Peri, a French woman, who, with her husband, conducted a candy store and ice cream parlor, taught dancing as a side issue.  She weighed about 280 pounds, but was as nimble on her feet as that trained chamois that Daudet tells us about in "Tartarin of the Alps."  Her juvenile class met at ten o'clock each Saturday morning and cavorted until noon.  The older students came on at two in the afternoon.  Next door to her establishment a justice of the peace had his court room.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On reaching the Peri building one Saturday morning for my dancing lesson, I saw that something was going on in the justice's court.  I stole in and found an actual trial in progress.  Here was a chance to gratify a long-cherished ambition.  I went up pretty well in front of the court room and got a seat.  The justice appeared to be a man who habitually looked upon the wine when it was red.  J. C. Black, a lawyer from Smartsville, represented the plaintiff; the handsomest man I ever saw appeared for the defendant.  He had a fine, long, silky beard, wavy hair to match, and brown eyes.  He was tall, well kept and well groomed.  He had a low, musical, but penetrating voice.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>458</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>423</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>It was a jury trial and had been continued from the day before.  Two or three of the jurymen I recognized as acquaintances of our family.  The trial had just been resumed.  Black, the attorney for the plaintiff, had on light brown kid gloves as he entered the court room, and from forgetfulness or affectation, never removed them.  The evidence was about in.  I think Eastman called one witness and then the testimony closed.  There was no rebuttal, and arguments to the jury began.  Black was a vigorous talker, kept stroking his gloves first with one hand, then with the other, and gesticulating with great freedom.  After he had been talking for some time, Eastman tiptoed back to where I was sitting, gave me a dollar, and asked me to take a note which he had scribbled on a piece of paper to Madame Peri, and bring back to him what she would give me.  I started out, the dollar looking as big as a cartwheel, but by the time I got to the door, I concluded that if I went to Madame Peri she would draft me into the dancing class, and not let me come back.  Fortunately, just outside of the door, I found a boy fooling around on the sidewalk.  I gave him ten cents (my commercial instinct was already developing) to take the note to Madame Peri.  Very soon he came back, bringing with him a pair of long canvas gloves that candy makers used in those days, in pulling candy.  They had absorbed from the hot candy all the colors of the rainbow, and were more ring-streaked and speckled than Laban's lambs.  I took them and hastened back to the court room and gave them to Eastman.  Black was hurling great masses of richly garnished rhetoric at the jury.  In doing this, his kid gloves were playing a conspicuous part.  He exhorted the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>459</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>424</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Not in all the annals of jurisprudence did there ever occur such a performance as we were then treated to.  Eastman slowly arose, and with the greatest deliberation drew on Madame Peri's candy gloves.  He pulled them clear up to his arm pits.  He bowed to the judge and to the jury.  Not a word did he utter, but he gesticulated, stroked his gloves, walked up and down before the jury, went through the most vehement hand and arm movements, sawed the air, first with one arm, then the other, stood on his tiptoes, and came down with a thud, glared at the jury, shaking his head at them, and imitated to perfection every movement of Black's during his opening address.  No sound escaped him, and the effect on judge and jury and spectators was extremely mirthful.  The judge laughed until diabetic tears chased each other down his whiskey-crimsoned cheeks.  The jurymen were beside themselves with glee, in which the spectators joined.  When the air was fairly sodden with hilarity, Eastman stopped his gymnastics, and for the first time opened his mouth.  "Gentlemen of the jury," he said, "I think I have fairly outgloved my worthy opponent, and I ask a verdict at your hands for my client."  Then he sat down amid a howl of delight that could have been heard a mile.  Poor old Black was completely done up.  He had shed his gloves while Eastman was performing, and got up to reply, but was so overcome that he never got beyond a few incoherent remarks about Eastman's buffoonry.  The jury retired and soon returned with a verdict in favor of Eastman's client.</P>
095.sgm:<P>It is a rather singular thing that, ten years later, I entered Mr. Eastman's office as a law student.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>460</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>LETTER TO MR. M. H. NEWMARK</P>
095.sgm:<P>ON MAY 25th, 1927, Mr. M. H. Newmark, of Los Angeles, came to me, saying that it was said by people that the Jews caused the failure of the Temple &amp; Workman Bank, in 1875, and wanted to know what I knew about it.  After consulting some memoranda at home, on the next day I wrote him the following letter:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"My dear Mr. Newmark:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"You tell me that some one has asserted that the failure of the Temple &amp; Workman Bank, in 1875, was caused by the Jews.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"There never was a more villainous slander of the Jews circulated at any time or place since the world began.  I denounce such an assertion as false and malicious.  No other man alive today is in as good a position to know its falsity as I am.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The firm of Brunson, Eastman &amp; Graves, of which I was a member, were attorneys for Freeman &amp; Spence, assignees of Temple and Workman, and I handled the details of the legal work performed by the firm for the assignees.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Remember that, as far back as 1868, I. W. Hellman, whose ability as a banker has never been denied, and F. P. F. Temple, were partners in the banking business as Hellman, Temple &amp; Co. I once asked Mr. Hellman why the partnership did not continue.  He replied: `Mr. Temple's only qualification in a borrower was that he must be poor.  I saw that doing a banking business on that basis would soon leave me poor also, and I dissolved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>461</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>426</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"The bank was headquarters for the speculators who built up a little real estate boom, which collapsed with the failure of the bank.  It virtually had no commercial business, nearly all of which was in the hands of Jewish firms.  The principal firms owned by the Jews at that time were Hellman, Haas &amp; Co., Newmark &amp; Co., Jacoby Brothers, the City of Paris, owned by Eugene Meyer, Isaac Lankershim, Kalisher &amp; Wartenberg, Polaski &amp; Goodwin, S. Nordlinger, Levy &amp; Coblentz, the Nortons, the Cohns, M. Laventhal, Sam Hellman and I. N. Hellman, all of whom were customers of the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank, except, possibly, Newmark &amp; Co., who were customers of Temple &amp; Workman, but they did not owe the bank anything when it failed.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"E. J. Baldwin loaned Temple &amp; Workman, after they closed, in September, 1875, a large amount of money on a great deal of property, including the Temple Block in Los Angeles city.  Baldwin assigned his mortgage to Camillo Martin, who was not a citizen of California, and the mortgage was foreclosed in the Federal Court in San Francisco.  At a sale had under the foreclosure decree, Mr. Harris Newmark and Mr. Kaspare Cohn bid in the Temple Block and paid their good money for it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I can recall but very few Jews who were indebted to Temple &amp; Workman.  The principal one was Simon Levi, a commission merchant who could not get credit at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>462</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>427</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"H. S. Ledgyard, an Englishman, was an employee of the Temple &amp; Workman Bank.  There was located here quite a colony of Englishmen known as `remittance men,' all without assets, and every one of whom owed the Temple &amp; Workman Bank, and none of whom paid a cent of the indebtedness.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I know nothing about the books of Temple and Workman except what I was told.  Mr. Spence, one of the assignees of the firm, told me the books showed expenditures to the extent of $50,000 by the bank under various fictitious accounts, which was spent in the election of Mr. Temple as Treasurer of Los Angeles County over T. E. Rowan, the then incumbent.  The bank never had an adequate cash reserve, but led a hand-to-mouth existence.  When things tightened up it had no reserves, not even notes upon which it could raise money--no place to turn, and, of course, had to close its doors.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"My firm prosecuted many suits for Freeman and Spence, assignees, against debtors of the bank.  The following is a list of the cases, the assignees in each case being plaintiffs in the action, so I will omit repeating their names.  The cases were brought in the District Court of the 17th Judicial District:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"No. 3052 vs. E. Bouton,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3089  " E. W. Squires, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3090  "  F. W. Gibson,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3091  "  J. F. Burns,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintif</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3102  "  Geo. M. Fall, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3103  "  A. W. Hale, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3104  "  Geo. J. Clark, et. al.,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>463</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>427</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"No. 3107 vs. J. L. Warren, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3120  "  H. S. Ledgyard,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3158  "  W. J. Welch,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3169  "  M. Kremer,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3174  "  Arthur Bullock,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3175  "  J. L. Ward, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3231  "  D. W. Alexander, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3249  "<HSEP>   do.<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3275  "  S. Hellman,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3280  "  D. W. Alexander, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3281  "  Job N. Seamans<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3283  "<HSEP>do.<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3284  "  Union Clud of L. A.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3216  "  J. S. Jameson, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3219  "  John W. forbes,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3224  "  S. Boushey,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3227  "  Carl Ruthard,<HSEP>Judgment for defendant</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3254  "  Fred D. Mitchell,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3355  "  Leonard Laborri,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3356  "  Lucien Curtis,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3357  "  Saml. Franklin, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3358  "  Henry Dockweiler,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3359  "  J. G. Jeffries, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3360  "  D. Garcia,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3361  "  John fisher,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3362  "  John Lazzarovich,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3363  "  John D. Adams,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3364  "  Eri Locke,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3365  "  Chris. Fluhr, et. al.,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3366  "  John F. Barham,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3367  "  Lucien Curtis, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3400  "  D. Gelcich,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3403  "  Alfred Trumball,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3404  "  Cardona, et. al.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The foregoing list shows that many of these actions brought by us were settled and dismissed.  While the defendants in these cases owed the bank, they also claimed offsets against the indebtedness, being the amounts which they had on deposit to their credit respectively, when the bank failed.  We took one of these cases before the court, got a ruling that the offset could be allowed, and then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>464</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>429</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Now and then, various people brought suits against Temple &amp; Workman and the assignees, which we had to defend.  Here is the list:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"No. 3126, Ellis vs. Temple &amp; Workman,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3140, Pleffenberger &amp; Co. vs. T. &amp; W.,  Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3143, John Jones vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintif</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3144, Thos. R. Bard vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3148, L. Geldmacher vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3217, Robt. Turnbull vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Judgment for plaintiff</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3201, The People vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Judgment for defendant</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3621, O'Farrell vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3622, Marischino vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3623, A. L. Whitney vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3624, J. W. Butcher vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3625, I. Danilwitz vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"  3626, A. Watermann vs. T. &amp; W.,<HSEP>Settled and dismissed</P>
095.sgm:<P>"All of the cases in the last list which are marked `settled and dismissed,' were cases where the plaintiff brought an action to obtain possession of something left for safekeeping with the Temple &amp; Workman Bank, and which the assignees did not feel safe in delivering without the sanction of the court.  When that was obtained, the properties were returned to the plaintiffs and the case would be dismissed.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"It will be noticed that the Farmers &amp; Merchants Bank then had, as the Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank today has, the substantial business interests for its customers.  Among the people sued by the assignees of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>465</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>430</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"I think the foregoing conclusively shows that the bank lost nothing to amount to anything through their Jewish clients.  You will notice that most of the suits brought were against American names or Basques, Frenchmen or Italians, many of them being sheepmen.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>466</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>BANQUET TENDERED ME ON MY 60TH BIRTHDAY.  RETURN BANQUET BY ME, AT MY HOME, ON 70TH BIRTHDAY</P>
095.sgm:<P>ON DECEMBER 5th, 1912, my friends tendered me a complimentary dinner on my attaining the age of sixty years, December 5th being my birthday.  Over two hundred persons attended the dinner, which was given at the Alexandria Hotel, in Los Angeles.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The encomiums pronounced on me by the speakers of the evening were especially embarrassing to me.  During my response I invited all who were in attendance to a birthday dinner which I promised to give them on my seventieth birthday.  Our dry laws would have prohibited me from serving wine had this latter dinner been given at a hotel.  I therefore determined to give the dinner in my garden at my residence.  As I could not have relied on good weather for December 5th, I advanced the date of the dinner to September 9th, 1922.  I erected a tent which entirely covered a large tennis court.  Near it I have a permanent outdoor kitchen, where the dinner was prepared.  It was served in the tent on the tennis court.  Some two hundred guests attended.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I served wines at this dinner, and in so doing I violated none of the laws of the land.  Any wines served by me were pre-prohibition vintage, and had long reclined in my cellar.  I am satisfied my guests all enjoyed the evening.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>467</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>432</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The invitation which I sent to my friends read as follows:</P>
095.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">1852<HSEP>1922 Mr. J. A. Graves requests the pleasure of your company at an informal Stag Dinner at six o'clock, p.m., on Saturday, September ninth, Nineteen hundred and twenty-two at his home, 320 Huntington Drive, Alhambra, California. This dinner is to take the place of a banquet to which he invited his hosts on the occasion of their giving him a banquet at the Alexandria Hotel on December fifth, nineteen hundred and twelve, his sixtieth birthday.  It is given at his residence on account of our dry laws. Los Angeles, California, August twentieth, Nineteen hundred and twenty-two.  Please reply care of Farmers &amp; Merchants National Bank of Los Angeles Los Angeles<HSEP>California</HI>
095.sgm:<P>At the close of the dinner, Mr. H. W. O'Melveny, in a very graceful and eloquent speech, presented to me, on behalf of my friends, a painting of the San Gabriel Canyon, the masterpiece of Mr. Guy Rose, an artist whose parents, Mr. L. J. and Mrs. Amanda Rose, were pioneers of Los Angeles County, and who was brought up within three miles of where the presentation was made.  In accepting this gift, I replied as follows:</P>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"Gentlemen:</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>"From the bottom of my heart, I thank Mr. O'Melveny for his loving expressions of regard and esteem for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>468</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>433</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:me.  I am afraid he has drawn too strong a picture of my virtues and accomplishments.  Nevertheless, I thank him most sincerely.  He has, however, completely taken the wind out of my sails, and all the conceit out of me.  I had hoped that this was to be my affair, that I was to be <HI REND="italics">it</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"I accept this beautiful painting, the subject of which is familiar to me, with most pleasurable feelings.  The able artist who painted it I have known from his childhood, and his parents were warm friends of mine.  Believe me, that I shall cherish this gift through all the years of my life, and I hope that some of my posterity will preserve it for all time, and pass down the story of its acquirement.  I again thank you, from the very bottom of my heart, for your extreme kindness to me."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I then continued:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"On December 5th, 1912, my sixtieth birthday, you were my hosts and I was your guest, at a very elaborate banquet given at the Alexandria Hotel, in Los Angeles City.  At that time, I promised you that ten years from the day I would return the compliment.  I have anticipated the date and I am giving this entertainment today in lieu of the one I promised you.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I am giving the entertainment here for the reason that personal liberty has been curtailed in public places.  If I had waited until December 5th, and given you a banquet in Los Angeles City, it would have been a dry banquet, which would be about as acceptable to me and my guests as freedom has been to Ireland.  I could not wait until December 5th to give my entertainment here because we could not depend upon weather conditions at that time.  It is fitting that we should meet here, as I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>469</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>434</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"There are many present who will say that this also ought to be a celebration of the retirement of the present mendacious governor and his predatory followers, from power.  No man in the State of California contributed more to bring this about than one of my guests here tonight, Mr. Henry W. Keller.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Here and now, I again invite you to meet me at this spot, in another reunion, when I am eighty years old.  I see but one contingency that will prevent my attaining that age.  Should I, in the meantime, espouse a ticket, at any election, which should be elected, I am satisfied I would drop dead.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Like the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Times</HI>
095.sgm:, I sometimes fail to pick the winner in a political contest, but I rejoice that, with <HI REND="italics">The Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"Of those who attended the banquet given to me on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>470</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>435</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Mr. John Alton<HSEP>Mr. James C. Kays</P>
095.sgm:<P>Hon. M. T. Allen<HSEP>Mr. Frank W. King</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Guy B. Barham<HSEP>Mr. John Llewellyn</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. O. F. Brant<HSEP>Dr. Walter Lindley</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. John J. Byrne<HSEP>Mr. J. Loew</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. C. A. Canfield<HSEP>Hon. J. W. McKinley</P>
095.sgm:<P>Gen. Adna R. Chaffee<HSEP>Gen. Harrison Gray Otis</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Kaspare Cohn<HSEP>Dr. J. A. Ozmun</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. T. L. Duque<HSEP>Mr. W. C. Patterson</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. L. H. Groenendyke<HSEP>Mr. R. A. Rowan</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Abe Haas<HSEP>Mr. Jud Saeger</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Gustav Heimann<HSEP>Mr. Geo. S. Safford</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Isaias W. Hellman<HSEP>Mr. Chas. Seyler</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. M. F. Ihmsen<HSEP>Mr. T. Spellacy</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Stoddard Jess<HSEP>Mr. Alfred Stern</P>
095.sgm:<P>Mr. Nate F. Wilshire</P>
095.sgm:<P>--thirty-one in all.  They were all good friends of mine, and I will ask you to drink to their memories, and the peaceful repose of their souls.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Much has happened to all of us in the ten years that have elapsed since that banquet.  We have all lost something.  I, for one, have lost a leg; Dr. Bryant has lost his gall bladder; many of you have lost an appendix, and many more of you your tonsils; nearly every one here, in ten years past, has shed a few teeth, and we have all lost ten perfectly good years of our lives.  We have endured much, but the worst punishment that we have undergone was eight years of a Democratic administration of the nation's affairs--but that is past and gone, with its mistakes and imbecilities.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Losing my leg was not my only affliction--I have almost lost my hearing, and I can assure you that it is by far the greater affliction of the two.  When one grows deaf he grows moody and morose; he cannot help it.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>471</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>436</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"But we will let that go.  I am thankful that I am alive, thankful for the friendships that I enjoy and the many blessings that have been bestowed upon me.  Life is an experiment and I want to see it out.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I propose to be a little reminiscent in my talk to you tonight.  I arrived in Los Angeles on the fifth day of June, 1875, before a great many assembled here tonight were born.  There are a few men in Los Angeles who were then grown men and in business at the time.  They include Judge Ross, Mr. J. M. Elliott, Dr. Joseph Kurtz, Mr. Wm. R. Rowland, Mr. A. W. Hutton, Mr. Will D. Gould, Mr. James Cuzner, and Mr. Jacob Kuhrts.  Some of them are here, tonight.  There are others here who were boys, or just entering into manhood, at the time I came to Los Angeles--Bill Mulholland, the builder of the aqueduct without graft, came later."</P>
095.sgm:<P>(I then related many historical incidents which have already been set forth in preceding chapters.)</P>
095.sgm:<P>"My wife and I cast our lot in this neighborhood in 1882.  For the first few years we only came out in the spring and remained until fall.  In 1888, we built our house here and have occupied it ever since.  Last Christmas Day we ate our thirty-fourth consecutive Christmas dinner in it.  We have had our share of joys and sorrows.  We came here in the full vigor of our younger days.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>472</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>437</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"My wife has been more than a helpmeet to me.  She has been my constant and cautious adviser and has aided me in many ways.  She is more responsible for the development and beauty of these grounds, for the success of this entertainment, than I am.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"We are thankful for the blessings that we have enjoyed.  It has been a joy to see these things grow and develop.  Every tree you see in this yard, except the large oak tree by the lily pond, the Norfolk Island pine in front of the house, and that white birch from Vermont, has been planted by us; even that tall redwood yonder I planted thirty-four years ago, when it was about five inches high.  It is now fully four feet through and certainly over one hundred feet in height.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"In this house two of our children were born.  All of our children grew to manhood and womanhood in these surroundings, and they all loved their home.  From it we buried two grown sons.  They, as boys, used to say, `If you ever sell this place, sell us with it.'  From it two of our daughters were married.  Our six grandchildren now play in these grounds, where our children formerly played.  Here we expect to spend our declining years, and here finally end our days.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"While Los Angeles was small and relatively poor, in 1875, as compared with her present condition, do not imagine that we did not enjoy life and have good times--and it seems to me that we had more pleasure in those days than we do now.  We were not driven from morning till night.  We felt more at liberty to take a day off, to go into the woods picnicking, trout-fishing or hunting.  Our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>473</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>438</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"I regret very much that my good old friend, Mr. William Pridham, is not here tonight.  He lives in Alameda County, is eighty-seven years of age, and felt that it would not be safe for him to make the journey.  In 1861, he was the Wells Fargo Express Company agent at Virginia City.  Before that, he had been around the world several times, as a sailor before the mast, although he came of a good Boston family.  He had also been a Pony Express rider, and I believe is the last of the riders who is alive.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Now, I have strong reasons for affectionately remembering Billy Pridham.  He materially assisted me when I needed assistance.  In January, 1878, the law firm of Brunson, Eastman &amp; Graves was dissolved.  I secured a small office, purchased a desk and a desk chair and some other furniture, a bookcase, the California reports, codes and statutes.  After paying for these things I had $1,680 in the bank, and I used to sit down and figure how long it would be before I starved to death.  About the second day that I had opened the office, Mr. Pridham came to me about nine o'clock in the morning, bringing with him a man named Durrall.  Durrall had an overdue note of a man for $2,900.  He wanted me to attach on it.  I did so.  In about an hour they had effected a settlement whereby Durrall got in value all of his claim and a little old safe about three feet wide by three and one-half feet high.  He paid me $300 and gave me the safe.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>474</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>439</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"You can imagine that I felt very much relieved; elated, in fact.  A three-hundred-dollar fee, within a few days of opening the office, made me feel a whole lot better.  Life took on a new aspect for me.  I took my $300 to the Commercial Bank to deposit it.  Mr. Spence was cashier.  He took my deposit.  I told him that was my first earnings since the dissolution of our firm.  He congratulated me, and said, `I am going to help you myself.'  He gave me three notes running to the bank, which he desired put into judgment, and two foreclosures for customers of the bank, out of one of which I remember I got $250.  It was my good fortune to know two of the men whose notes he gave me to put into judgment better than he did, and I collected their notes without suing them, very much to Mr. Spence's satisfaction.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"My relations with Mr. Spence became very cordial and he was always satisfied with the manner in which I transacted business for him.  For years I did all the legal work of his bank and for him I drew the articles of incorporation of the First National Bank of Los Angeles when it was organized, and was attorney for it for many years.  One day at luncheon Mr. Spence told me that he gave me this initial business at the earnest solicitation of my friend Billy Pridham, and I know that Billy put in a good word for me in other quarters.  He called the attention of Mr. J. M. Griffith, whom I did not at the time know, and who afterwards became my father-in-law, to me, and induced him to patronize me.  He was a man of great influence and large business interests, and his clientage very materially assisted me.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>475</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>440</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"And now, my friends, I want you to unite with me in drinking to the health, prosperity and happiness of Billy Pridham.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The ice was now broken, and from that time on I have never had any trouble as far as money was concerned.  Business came to me so fast that I never had an opportunity to become a great lawyer, but I believe all who know me will say that I was a safe and competent one, and I know I made more money than the gentlemen of the profession who had to try more cases than I did and wrestle with our judges.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Living was wonderfully cheap in Los Angeles in those days.  For instance, at the St. Charles, a lot of us young fellows boarded there for thirty dollars a month, three meals a day, and they set a wonderful table.  Messrs. Lips &amp; Craig ran it for a long time, and after them the firm of Whitney &amp; Solari had it, and they kept the table up to the same degree of excellence that Lips &amp; Craig had done.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Santa Monica was our principal outing place.  We would drive down there on Sundays and holidays.  There was a Frenchman, named Eugene Aune, who had a restaurant in a dwelling-house a block or two from the ocean front.  He did the cooking and his wife waited on the table.  He did not have many patrons and did not want many.  He had a wonderful garden and raised artichokes and fresh vegetables of all kinds.  To give you a sample of what things cost in those days, eight or ten of us would let him know a few days ahead that we would be there, and this is about what he would serve us:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Razor-back clams on the half-shell; then as delicious a soup as ever a Frenchman made; some sort of fresh fish caught out of the ocean that morning, cooked exquisitely.  After that a roast--chicken, duck, goose or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>476</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>441</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"To each guest was served a bottle of good French wine, and the price of the dinner and wine was three dollars.  We always used to chip in a dollar apiece for Mrs. Aune, who waited on the table.  She would demur, saying it was too much, but would finally accept it.  Today, the same dinner, not half so well cooked, in one of our modern hotels, would cost you twenty dollars.  Those were the good old days, but they will never come to us again.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Years afterwards, after I was married and was living here, Mrs. Aune would occasionally, when in Los Angeles, call on me at the office, just to ask how I was, and pass the compliments of the day.  She complained bitterly that times had changed, that people were not now as liberal to her as we boys used to be.  Then, one day, she came in great grief and sorrow.  Her husband, Eugene, had died, and she had been left with sundry pressing debts which were annoying her.  While she was in our office, Col. R. S. Baker came in.  He and Mrs. Baker had been good customers of the Aunes.  Learning of her troubles, he united with me in a purse sufficient to relieve her present necessities.  A few months afterwards I saw in the newspapers that she, too, had passed to the Great Beyond.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Since 1875, the world has made more progress, materially speaking, than in any century of its previous existence.  It is useless for me to go into particulars.  You all know what has been done.  You all know of the progress, of the improvements in the arts and sciences and all material things of this world.  You all know, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>477</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>442</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"The war left the world disorganized for everything except war.  It left all of the belligerents financially bankrupt except the United States.  It left nearly all of the nations of the world bankrupt morally.  The lust for gain by profiteering on the part of thousands, who knew better and should have been actuated by higher motives; the breaking down of family ties; the corruption that this war, like all wars, engendered--all these things were magnified by reason of the gigantic agencies brought into play during the conflict.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"The time lost in fooling over the League of Nations at Paris, when a peace treaty should have been quickly negotiated, instead of nursing the illusion that the people of Europe were ready and anxious for self-government, was a disturbing factor in restoring normal conditions.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Even before the war, there had grown up in America a disregard of law and order.  Since the war terminated, this disregard has increased until it has assumed most dangerous proportions.  We boast of being the land of the free.  We do not know what freedom, what liberty, is.  We are ruled by compact minorities of corrupt politicians, who barter away all liberty for temporary self-advantage.  There can be no freedom where the law does not prevail, where all laws are flouted and disregarded.  There can be no liberty when a man cannot work for any person he pleases, at such time as he chooses, and at such wage as he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>478</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>443</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"Any man of my age can thank his stars that he has lived when he did live.  He has enjoyed `life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness' during the `Golden Age' of America.  Life in the future cannot have the opportunities and safeguards he has enjoyed.  Confiscation of his accumulations is threatened by taxes, which are ever on the increase.  I sometimes ask myself if we can stop when we reach the precipice, or must we make the plunge which means utter ruin and destruction to the human race?</P>
095.sgm:<P>"A revolution against capital is in progress.  Coupled with it are savage onslaughts on property rights.  Victor Hugo says that such revolutions come about so often, when conditions are ripe for them; that when any such revolution is over, capital has not been destroyed, but still exists, but its owners have been shifted and capital rests in the hands of its new owners, who have taken by force what others acquired by industry, until another revolution despoils them, as it did their predecessors.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"These are questions which loom big to me in my idle, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>479</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>444</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"The past is gone.  It is forever lost to us.  It is valuable for the memories that we hold of it and the lessons that we can learn from it.  Then away with the past, with its joys and sorrows, with its hopes deferred and ambitions unfulfilled, its delusions and disappointments!  Sustained by hope of better things to come, let us drink to the future, which may bring us further joys, peace and contentment, a reverence for the Constitution and obedience to the laws, and which, at the worst, can only bring us oblivion!</P>
095.sgm:<P>"To the future, then, with the hope that this great land of ours may recover from its present ills, and go down the ages as an example of liberty to all the peoples of the world, that the expectations of the founders of our government may be fully realized, and America blaze the path to righteousness and justice for all ages and all man-kind!"</P>
095.sgm:<P>All who attended the dinner expressed themselves as having had a most excellent time.  I trust that I will be alive on my 80th birthday, so that I can again meet my friends on that occasion.  It is my purpose, if living, to have them all again assembled at my home.  I regret that death has already made quite heavy inroads upon those who attended the dinner, in 1922.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>480</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LV</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>WARS OF THE UNITED STATES DURING MY LIFETIME</P>
095.sgm:<P>DURING my lifetime, the United States, not counting her Indian wars, which, for years, were continuous, has undergone three wars, viz.:</P>
095.sgm:<P>First: The Civil War, or War of the Rebellion</P>
095.sgm:<P>Second: The war with Spain</P>
095.sgm:<P>Third: The World War, which began in 1914</P>
095.sgm:<P>I well remember the outbreak of the Civil War, or War of the Rebellion.  The excitement was intense.  There were many Southern people living at Marysville, where we then resided.  I believe that as many men left that section to join the Southern army as left to join the Union army.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The war was a devastating one.  It left the South with her resources destroyed and the flower of her manhood gone.  It also crippled the resources of the North very considerably, and many thousands of the best of her manhood were killed upon the battlefield.  The death of President Lincoln, at the termination of hostilities, was the severest blow which could possibly have been delivered to the country.  He could have done more than any other man in the nation to heal the wounds of his countrymen and bring the people of the North and South to a better understanding.  All his utterances, during the conflict, went to prove that he would have been a magnanimous victor.  He did not regard the people of the South as enemies, but as misguided fellow-citizens.  Had he lived, we would not have had carpet-bag rule in the South, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>481</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>446</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Perhaps the world never witnessed the termination of a war as devastating, in its proportions, which was so quickly followed by a resumption of the ordinary duties of citizenship.  The soldiers of both armies returned to their homes and immediately went to work to build up what had been destroyed.  The country suffered all possible ills from debt, from a lack of tools of trade and implements of husbandry, and also from a depreciated currency.  In an incredibly short time, our people put all their troubles behind them.  New industries were started, farming operations expanded, our overseas commerce enlarged; railroads were built, and manufacturing plants established.  Immigration, on an immense scale, from foreign countries, was encouraged, and ample cheap labor was thus obtained.  The curse of labor-unionism was, at that time, unheard-of.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In time, the pulse of the new era became too strong to be healthy.  Inflation followed, which resulted in serious financial depression.  Yet the country made great progress.  Her wealth increased, and she began and kept steadily at the reduction of the enormous debt which the war entailed.  The nation generously cared for the veterans of the war.  Much more could have been done for them had thieving politicians not stolen appropriations made for the benefit of the veterans.  The war, while an expensive one, was worth all it cost, in that it resulted in the abolishment of that greatest blot on American civilization, human slavery.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The war with Spain was short and snappy.  Admiral Dewey's wonderful performance at Manila Bay, followed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>482</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>447</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Our entrance into the World War was so long delayed that it cost all of the belligerents much blood and treasure.  Had our government acted on Roosevelt's suggestion, and declared the violation of Belgium's neutrality by Germany an act of war against us, the World War would not have lasted as long as it did.  We finally entered the war, after the usual oratorical gesture by President Woodrow Wilson.  Then followed the most humiliating spectacle in American history.  The president, always inclined toward socialism, took into his confidence that arch-traitor and unconvicted criminal, Samuel Gompers.  The latter exercised more power than any member of the cabinet.  The offense was more unpardonable when you consider what Gompers was.  He traveled hand-in-hand, and lectured from the same platform with Emma Goldman, who finally became so obnoxious to the socialistic instincts of the Wilson administration that she was banished from America.  Gompers encouraged strikes with picketing, brutal assaults, bloodshed and murder.  He disregarded our laws, derided and laughed at the decisions of the supreme court.  He was responsible for sabotage, assaults on non-union workers and even murders innumerable.  Gompers condoned the destruction of <HI REND="italics">The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>483</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>448</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm: building, with the murder of twenty innocent employes of that paper.  Gompers claimed with Clarence Darrow, who, as a result of the trial, was indicted and prosecuted for attempted jury bribing, that this wholesale killing was not murder but social revolution.  Gompers defended the McNamaras, who were responsible for <HI REND="italics">The Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>The president, through the influence of Gompers, coddled the labor unions.  They were exempted, as skilled laborers, from the draft.  Their pay was inordinately increased while their services decreased in effectiveness.  Never in the world, while our soldiers went forth, through all the horrors of trench warfare and death upon the battlefield, for a dollar a day, were such wages paid as Gompers' followers received, who remained in safety at home and became rich and impudent.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then came the appointment of the president's son-in-law, W. G. McAdoo, as governor-general of the railroads.  Probably with an eye on the presidential nomination, which he has already sought and, if reports are true, is still seeking, he immediately advanced the wages of all railroad employes to unheard-of figures.  Not satisfied with increasing the payroll in this manner, he reclassified all railroad men, which added millions more to their pay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>484</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>449</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>When McAdoo's rule of the railroads ended, that veteran railroad builder, James J. Hill, said it would cost the roads five hundred billion dollars to repair the damages done them under his administration.  Experience has proven that his estimate was rather under than over the mark.  After the war terminated, certain classes of railroad employes asked for still further increases in salary.  As the law provides, the matter was reffered to an arbitration board.  Evidently from Gompers' influence, the presidential appointees on this board were in sympathy with the demands of the men.  The increase was not only granted, but the raise in wages was made retroactive.  Thus, at a time when the roads were in sore distress, they were called upon to pay many millions immediately, to satisfy this most unjust salary grab.  Mr. H. M. Robinson, a banker living in Los Angeles, was one of the presidential appointees.  If he owed his appointment to the Gompers' influence, he amply repaid the debt in a recent speech to students of the California Institute of Technology of Pasadena, in which he became both an apologist for and adulator of the infamous Gompers.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The genius of the American railroad men has overcome all of the difficulties which confronted them when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>485</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>450</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Continuing the glorification of the labor unions, President Harding, as a vote-getting measure, appointed that moose man, Davis, Secretary of Labor.  He is not, except in name, secretary of labor.  He is secretary of organized, unionized labor.  President Coolidge, it is to be presumed, as a vote-getting measure, has retained Davis as Secretary of Labor.  He, through the cowardice and subserviency of senators and congressmen seeking the vote of organized labor, has dictated our immigration laws so as to give labor an absolute monopoly of that commodity.  Labor charges what it pleases for inadequate attention to its duties, and constantly asks and gets increased pay.  The united brotherhood of railroad employes has become so rich that it has become capitalist and organized banks and commercial enterprises in many large cities of the United States.  In the meantime, labor has been virtually exempted from the income tax, and the rest of our population is bearing that heavy burden and paying off our enormous debt which labor is largely responsible for.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The natural resources of the country are so great that it will probably survive these abuses.  But people who complain of high prices must not confine their criticism to merchants and manufacturers alone.  Labor should come in for its share of the blame.</P>
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095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LVI</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>THE SORROWS OF MY LIFE</P>
095.sgm:<P>IN APRIL, 1861, when I was nine years of age, I experienced the first great sorrow of my life.  My brother, Selwyn, thirteen year old, four years older than I was, died of scarlet fever.  All of us children had it.  He caught cold just as he took the disease, and it was impossible for him to recover.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He realized that he was going to die.  He told my mother that he did not want to die, but at the same time, urged her not to mourn for him.  At daybreak, a meadowlark alighted on the roof of the house and sang a few melodious notes, then, with a burst of joyous song, flew away.  Selwyn heard him, and with a smile on his lips told his mother that the lark had come to bid him good-bye, and that he would never hear it sing again.  In ten minutes he was dead.</P>
095.sgm:<P>He was my guide and mentor.  We were chums.  He taught me to ride and shoot.  He showed me where to find the largest blackberries, the sweetest huckleberries and the best wild grapes.  He showed me the most likely places to catch chub and perch.</P>
095.sgm:<P>It was my first experience with death.  Up to that time I had received no religious instruction other than such as I got at my mother's knee.  I had no religious instinct or feeling, and I have never since acquired either.  I knew but little about God.  At my brother's funeral I heard the minister say that God had taken Selwyn from us.  I immediately felt an enmity toward Him.  I considered that He had done me a personal injury, and I was bitter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>487</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>452</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>For many weeks after his death I felt deserted.  In time, I began to rely upon myself, and to do for myself the things which my brother formerly did for me.  The pain and misery which I experienced, little by little, disappeared.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Then, in 1864, the grim reaper, Death, again visited us.  My sister, just past fourteen years of age, also died, the doctor said, of scarlet fever.  I am convinced she died of diphtheria.  I drove her home from boarding-school in Marysville, at four o'clock Friday afternoon.  She was then well and in good spirits.  The next morning she complained of sore throat.  Sunday morning her throat was worse and she had a high fever.  The family physician was summoned from Marysville.  When he arrived Sunday afternoon she was much worse.  He did all he could to relieve her sufferings.  He remained with us all night.  At four o'clock Monday morning she died, literally choked to death.</P>
095.sgm:<P>My mother suffered so much from this new affliction, that I suppressed, as best I could, my own grief, in order to comfort and sustain her.  After my sister's death my mother devoted herself to my care and welfare more closely than she had done in the past.  She taught me arithmetic, geography, history, spelling and Latin, during all of our spare hours.  It was her ambition that I should be a lawyer.  She hammered that idea into my head <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>488</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>453</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>The years sped on until, in 1867, we left Marysville for San Mateo County, and then my real education began.</P>
095.sgm:<P>There were no further deaths in our family until 1883, when our infant son, Griffith Graves, our second child, died when three days old.  His mother had suffered much with neuralgia before his birth.  The physicians said his little body was so charged with it that he could not possibly rally.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1889, my mother died of pneumonia, at Santa Rosa, Sonoma County, California, where she and my father then lived. Having been notified of her illness, I was going to her when I received a telegram, at Mojave, notifying me of her death.  Gloomy, indeed, was the remainder of my journey to Santa Rosa.  I brought her body back with me.  She was buried from our house in Alhambra, in my lot, in the San Gabriel Cemetery.  My father spent the remainder of his days at our home.</P>
095.sgm:<P>My mother used to mourn because, in flood times, the cemetery at Marysville, while not actually flooded over its surface, was so drenched with underground water from the rise of the water level, that the bodies of all who were buried there were submerged in water for weeks at a time.  Remembering this, I had the remains of my brother and sister, within a month after my mother's funeral, removed from Marysville to San Gabriel, and interred beside those of my mother.</P>
095.sgm:<P>In April, 1906, my only brother, Henry Emmet Graves, died at his home in Los Angeles in the fifty-ninth year of his age.  He was to me always a kind and affectionate brother and helpmate.  He came to Los <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>489</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>454</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Our first grandchild, Griffith Stewart, son of H. F. and Alice Graves Stewart, died at the home of his parents in what is now San Marino, on January 4th, 1908, of spinal meningitis.  There were at the time nearly one hundred cases scattered throughout various localities in Los Angeles County, nearly every case of which terminated fatally.  He was a fine large boy, something over two years old, bright, good-looking, and of a loving disposition.  Too soon was his young life ended.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Not long were we allowed surcease from sorrow.  On the first day of March, 1908, my son, Selwyn Emmet Graves (named for my two brothers), was killed in an automobile accident.  He was twenty-three years of age, and would have graduated from the Medical College of Southern California within the next week.  He was a most lovable character, well thought-of by everyone, and gave great promise of eminence as a surgeon.  All of his preceptors had predicted a brilliant future for him.  As a prerequisite to graduation, he was compelled to do a certain amount of what is termed "settlement work."  The miseries he encountered among the poorer classes grieved him very much.  At the last meal we had together, large fortunes were under discussion, and he remarked that if he had ample means he "would found a hospital at which the poverty-stricken portion of humanity could obtain priceless service without price."</P>
095.sgm:<P>I gave all of his books and medical instruments to his medical college.  Shortly after his death, as a memorial to him, I paid off a $20,000 mortgage upon the property <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>490</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>455</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>He was an intimate friend of Mr. Harry Andrews, one of the editors of the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Times</HI>
095.sgm:, who published in <HI REND="italics">The Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"DEATH'S SHINING MARK"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"That death still loves a shining mark has been brought home again in the inexpressibly sad and untimely taking off of young Selwyn Emmet Graves, who was killed in an automobile accident in this city early last Sunday morning.  From the hope and joy of youth, this fine, noble boy was hurled without a moment's warning into the solemn and unknown darkness of another world, from the mysterious pathways of which no footstep returns.  There was no hour of farewell, no moment in which to bid Godspeed, no waiting for the tide; there was no thought of leave-taking at all.  The lights of home were just ahead--then came the flash of doom and the sudden dark.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Death is sad enough at all times, God knows!  Those whom we love leave us all too soon, no matter how long the years or how white the head with the snows of age.  But when the Pale Rider stoops from his phantom steed to pluck from the heart's red core a strong, brave man, just as he sets his feet on life's highways that beckon to him with high hopes and bright rewards, it is all that the soul can do to bear it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Here was a young man who had everything to live for.  He was clean and good.  He was blessed with a kindly and generous nature; he was the son of an honored father and a tender, loving mother.  His friends were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>491</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>456</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>It was my intention to have sent Selwyn to Vienna, to round out his medical and surgical education, just as soon as he graduated and had been admitted to practice by the state authorities.</P>
095.sgm:<P>Two years later, on March 23rd, 1910, our second son, J. A. Graves, Jr., died.  On the twenty-third day of March, 1911, I wrote a review of his life, illness and death, which I will here quote in full.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"JACK"</P>
095.sgm:<P>"One year ago today, Jack died.  He was my son, my namesake, a boy of kindly, gentle nature, loved and lovable.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"He was born on July 12th, 1891.  He was scarcely nineteen years of age when death robbed us of him.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"It seems but a day since he came to us.  What a nice baby he was, so sweet, so good, so lovable!  When scarcely three months old, an old friend of mine, Mr. L. C. Goodwin, was stricken with a fatal, yet lingering, illness.  He told me to bring the baby in, before it was too late.  He wanted to see him.  Childless himself, he loved my children.  How he fondled him, patted his cheeks, kissed him, smoothed his almost imperceptible locks, admired him, made much of him, as only a childless old man can do.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"When we left him, he shook Jack's baby hand goodbye, and said to himself, rather than to me, `He little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>492</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>457</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"And now my Jack, like my friend Goodwin, is dead, gone, lost to me, never to return.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"How every little incident of his early childhood comes back to me!  How clearly I read his life!  He grew and prospered as only healthy babies can, and he was soon toddling around, walking from chair to chair, from parent to parent.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"He was a happy child, full of the very joy of living.  The laughter of his soul was always bubbling over.  Sorrow was unknown to him.  Always happy, always smiling, always good-natured, he imparted to all around him a spirit of happiness and contentment.  He was always active, alert, always interested, and always interesting.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"I am looking at a photograph of him now, taken when he was about three years old.  How bright his eyes, how inquiring his little face!  His very pose indicates an active, anxious and inquiring mind.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Soon his school days began.  Happy days for him!  He was always a favorite with his teacher and his school companions.  Boys came home from school each day with him.  The poorer the boy, the better he treated him.  He was a leader--they followed.  They laughed and played and made merry until lengthening shadows admonished them that anxious mothers were waiting for them.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"At an early age he began to hunger for books.  Boys' books of travel and adventure, and historical works, occupied his spare moments.  He could not be idle.  Studies finished of an evening, he was soon absorbed in some book until made to retire.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"When he was ten years of age, that dread disease, diphtheria, appeared in Alhambra.  One night Jack complained of not feeling well.  He barely touched his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>493</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>458</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"In the summer of 1907, we sent him with his tutor to the Mediterranean for the sea voyage.  They sailed from New York on the steamship `Moltke.'  The long voyage was beneficial to him.  He made warm friends of all on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>494</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>459</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"He stayed on the Italian coast but a week or so, and came home on the return voyage of the `Moltke.'  From New York he came home alone.  The trip improved him very much, so much that the doctors thought it safe for him to start to school again.  He started in at the Alhambra High School, and was doing well physically and in his studies.  One day he was watching a football game.  A player was injured.  He took his place and played the game out.  He immediately relapsed.  The improvement of two years or more, was destroyed in an hour.  He had to drop his school work.  The physicians said he must have a certain diet, absolute rest and massage.  To give him these, we placed him in Dr. McBride's Sanitarium, at Lamanda Park.  How he hated the place!  His mother visited him several times a week, and he came home on Sundays.  Here he formed the acquaintance of Dr. Stephen A. Smith.  They were fast friends until the end.  Dr. Smith was the last person he spoke to when he was dying.  A German masseur at the sanitarium fairly worshiped him.  The regular hours, plenty of exercise in a quiet way, did him a great deal of good.  He grew still taller, and broad-shouldered.  His limbs did not develop in proportion to his body, probably because he could not exercise them as much as they needed exercise.  His mind was, as ever, bright and active, and he read and studied constantly.</P>
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095.sgm:<P>"The spring of 1908 came.  He was at the sanitarium when his brother Selwyn met his unfortunate and tragic death.  The loss of his brother was a serious blow to him.  Later in the year we took him with us on an automobile trip through Northern California.  It agreed with him, and he enjoyed the change of scene and air.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"That fall and winter he spent at home.  We got him another tutor, and he made good progress in his studies.  He was now in his seventeenth year, and more than six feet tall.  The doctors advised a trip to Bad-Neuheim, for his heart.  In March, 1909, accompanied by his mother and sister Katherine, and Miss Kate Van Nuys, he started again for Europe.  His letters on the trip were original, and showed him to be a close observer.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"On April 18th, 1909, they sailed from New York, again on the `Moltke,' for the Mediterranean.  The captain and officers were overjoyed at again having Jack with them.  They showered attentions upon the entire party on his account.  After a restful and beautiful trip, they docked at Naples.  Then they began a delightful trip through Italy.  After visiting the Italian cities, they made their way slowly north through Switzerland, and in July reached Bad-Neuheim.  Writing me from there, Jack said, `I have seen the doctor three times now.  He is more sure of an absolute cure every time he has examined me, but, of course, as they have all said, it depends entirely upon myself.  I have had enough of this chasing around from one place to another, trying to get my health, and so think that, if I ever do get straightened out, I will have sense enough not to do anything more to set me back again.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"When his treatment ended, Dr. Graedel sent them to the Black Forest for the after-cure.  On parting with him (this I never heard until after his death, as he made his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>496</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>461</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"What must have been his constant emotions with this knowledge of his condition burned into his soul?  The activity of his disposition would not have permitted him to have lived such a life.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"They did the Black Forest and Germany by automobile trip of nearly 3,000 miles.  Writing from Frankfort to me, he said: `This country and France can surely give America lessons in road building.  In the first place, they have good material, and labor costs them but little.  We have passed a good many road-building gangs.  They keep working on the completed roads forever.  In constructing a new road, first, they dig down about a foot into the earth.  Then they lay a foundation of stone.  Each stone is a little larger than a brick, and each one fitted to the last one laid.  Every piece of stone is quarried, ground and shaped by hand.  On top of the large foundation stones, they put a two-inch layer of red clay (which covers most of Germany) and, after putting water on the clay until it nearly runs, they fill in all the chips of stone left by the cutters, and roll the road until it forms a surface as strong as concrete.  This surface never cracks.  On top of this finished surface they add a layer of fine sand, which holds the dust, and also helps hold the clay firm in rainy weather.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Holland was closed to them by reason of the cholera, then epidemic there.  Leaving Germany, they went to France.  They then returned to the Mediterranean, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>497</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>462</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"The long sea voyage to New York rested them, after their continental travels.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Late in October, they reached home.  The boy who left home in March, returned, in October, a man in experience.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"Then came the question of how best to occupy his mind, and keep him quiet.  His local physician examined him, and pronounced him in good condition.  He warned us and him against any violent exercise, but said he must have some occupation, as college was out of the question for him.  It was agreed that he could safely study law, if he would not work too hard.  He entered the office of the firm of my former partner, Mr. H. W. O'Melveny.  Here he won the heart of everyone he came in contact with.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"One day Mr. George Denis said to me, `Graves, I was surprised and much pleased to learn that that tall, handsome, gentlemanly, well-bred young man, in O'Melveny's office, is your son, Jack.  He has been to our office frequently of late on business for his firm.  We all admired him before we knew who he was.  I congratulate you on possessing so promising a son.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"So it was with all who met him.  He made remarkable progress in his legal work.  He took the utmost interest in the affairs of the office.  He rejoiced in the firm's successes and grieved over their defeats.  The `never say die' spirit in him was invariable.  If he told me about an adverse decision rendered in some case the firm was attending to, he always added, `But <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
095.sgm:<P>"In January, 1910, he caught a bad cold.  He grew thinner.  His face took on its old pinched and pallid look.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>498</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"It was a pitiful thing to see him waste away, to feel that we were losing him!  To know in our hearts, while we still hoped for his recovery, that he was doomed to die!  The doctors were noncommital.  Some days they pronounced him better, again they said he was worse.  The stomach was affected.  When it got better, the heart got worse.  Then congestion of the lungs followed his other troubles.  The lungs got better.  One Sunday, the twentieth of March, the doctors were much encouraged.  They pronounced him much better.  How the sunshine of joy entered our weary hearts!  The fight was won!  He would live!  What joy!  What a load was lifted from our minds!  Mr. and Mrs. O'Melveny drove out to see us.  When we told them he was better, they rejoiced with us.  Henry asked if he could see Jack.  I took him to him.  He was very weak.  He grasped the proffered hand, his eyes closed, but the tears stood in them, as he listened to Henry's congratulations.  To get me out of the house, Mr. and Mrs. O'Melveny persuaded me to ride to Monrovia with them, where they were going to take Mr. H. S. McKee, who was with them.  How we rejoiced over the change in his condition!  We could already see him well again, and planned all sorts of pleasant things for him.  Our joy was short-lived.  Monday a change <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>499</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>464</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>"All Tuesday night I stayed up with Jack.  Once he said to me, `Pop, I am cold, so cold.'  We applied hot applications to his extremities and he felt warmer.  Wednesday morning I said something about it being morning.  He was dozing but heard me, and remarked, `Is it morning, already?  Tomorrow, I will be better.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"That night the doctors made Mrs. Graves and myself retire.  At ten o'clock they called us.  Just as we got to Jack's bedside, he breathed his last.  He went peacefully to sleep, to the sleep that knows no waking.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"To know our agony, one must go through the same sad experience.  The light of his life, and most of the light of our lives had gone out.  We could not realize it.  For a time we could not comprehend that one so young, so full of the joy of living, could die and leave us.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"There is one consolation in the death of both of our boys.  They can never suffer the agony we have suffered.  They can never stand beside the cold and pallid forms of their dead children.  At least that sorrow is spared them.  They can never feel the despair that comes to the human soul when its offspring is thus taken from it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"We buried him, assisted by kind and sympathizing friends, by the side of his brother.  Ah, the desolation of our home!  To see the things he loved, and know that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>500</CONTROLPGNO>
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095.sgm:<P>"Speaking of his death, Mr. A. G. Becker, a wealthy broker of Chicago, who traveled on the continent with them, while abroad in 1909, in a letter to my daughter, said:</P>
095.sgm:<P>"`There are no words at my command that could express, in the slightest degree, our regret and sorrow at the death of your brother, Jack, the fine, big-hearted boy, who was a man before his time.  How we all loved him and looked up to him in our too short acquaintance!  Louise is home from college for Easter, and she told us, the day before your letter was received, that Jack must have forgotten her, as she received no reply to her last letter.  I cannot tell you with what pleasure we looked forward to our few days' visit, which we intended to make you in the fall, and we shall always cherish the cordial and urgent invitation he extended us, and which we felt was so sincere.'</P>
095.sgm:<P>"So it was with all his friends.  If he had an enemy, I never knew of it.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"His short life is ended.  He is lost to us.  In place of his presence, in lieu of his joyous laughter, instead of his genial smile, there is left us a memory of the smiling babe, the happy boy, the enthusiastic youth, and the budding manhood of poor Jack, which was so full of promise, and yet so saddened by long-continued suffering.</P>
095.sgm:<P>"With dim eyes and swelling heart, I close this brief summary of the life of one so near and so dear to all of us."</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>501</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>466</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I believe that, had my two sons lived, each of them would have made a name for himself in his chosen calling.  I console myself that, in dying, they have missed a world of trouble.  They will, at least, never stand by the bedside of their own children, and see them pass away.  Had Selwyn lived, nothing would have kept him out of the European War, and he would have been upon the battlefield to extend first aid to the wounded.  What horrors might have overtaken him, no one can imagine.</P>
095.sgm:<P>With each passing year, the memory of my dead grows dearer to me.  Perhaps that is my recompense for having lost them.  But the death circle was not yet closed.  On May 5th, 1911, my poor old father, who was 87 years of age, and very deaf and so nearly blind that he could no longer read a newspaper, died at my home, of apoplexy.  Death was a relief to him, and while we mourn his loss I cannot grieve for him as I did for my mother and my children.  He was a just man, of good, hard sense.  He never harmed a human soul during his eighty-seven years on earth.</P>
095.sgm:<P>On November 7th, 1920, my brother's widow, Mary Frances Graves, passed away, at her home at 1947 Harvard Boulevard, in Los Angeles.</P>
095.sgm:<P>All the dead I have mentioned above are buried in our lot at San Gabriel, and there is still room for the rest of us.  I had the body of our first child, Griffith Graves, removed from the Los Angeles cemetery to our present burial lot.  There is a central monument on the lot with appropriate headstones for each of those buried there.  There is no more beautiful spot on this earth for them to rest in throughout the ages.</P>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>502</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LVII</HEAD>
095.sgm:<P>GENERAL COMMENTS ON PROGRESS OF LOS ANGELES</P>
095.sgm:<P>IT WOULD take many volumes to trace with accuracy the growth of Los Angeles from 1900 to the present time.  An increase in population, during that period, from 100,000 to 1,200,000, tells the tale.  Such a history would necessitate the recording of many new individuals, firms and corporations, which have engaged in business here; a description of our electric and steam railroad developments; an enumeration of the business blocks, apartment houses, hotels and factories erected; an account of the development of electrical energy; a history of municipal water and power development, including grave mistakes made therein and petty politics played; a memorandum of lands subdivided, of dwelling-houses built, and of country homes, on a palatial style, established; the rise and progress of the movie industry, including its scandals, debaucheries, murders, assassinations, suicides and divorce proceedings; the development of our oil resources; the growth of the automobile industry to unbelievable proportions; the increase in our banking facilities, including the inauguration of branch banks and the exploitation of the office of State Bank Commissioner for the benefit of individual banks, making, as it were, a political football of that official position; the rise and extraordinary increase in the tourist business; the construction of our harbor at San Pedro, and great increase in the volume of our ocean-going commerce; the rise and fall of local political demagogues, who, after abusing a little brief authority, have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>503</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>468</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:faded away into well-merited obscurity; the part Los Angeles played in the World War; the account of the valiant services rendered this community by the <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Daily Times</HI>
095.sgm:<P>The world has made more progress, during the seventy-five years of my life, than in all of the centuries that passed before I was born.</P>
095.sgm:<P>The preceding years were all in preparation for what has since occurred.  Man's present knowledge and ingenuity have been centuries in the making.  The development which has occurred in the arts and sciences, in the mechanical world, in inventions, discoveries, and the application of scientific principles to the varied affairs of life, have come about gradually.  They have resulted from the better education and training of the masses, as well as from constantly increasing opportunities.  One invention has led to another, until we are astounded at the perfection of the automobile, the telescope, the microscope, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>504</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>469</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>I realize that the part I have played in the world's affairs has been inconspicuous.  I have always faced every situation that has confronted me, with fortitude.  In the daily affairs of life, if there is any one thing above another that I have been conspicuous for, it has been action.  I have never idled my time away.  While others spent priceless hours at the two great American abominations, professional baseball and professional football, I was attending to business.  I have never wasted my time at cards or other games of amusement.  I am proud to say I have never disgraced my mother, my wife, my children or myself, by attending a prize fight.  Seeing a prize fight would not, in itself, be so bad as mingling with the crowd which attends them.  While some decent people are found in prize ring audiences, the bulk of the attendance is made up of the scum of the earth that no decent man should ever mingle with.</P>
095.sgm:<P>I do not believe in luck.  If you will look around you and note the men of your intimate acquaintance, or of national reputation, who have succeeded in life, you will find that they have been industrious workers.  They were always on deck, as it were, and ready to grasp every opportunity which presented itself.  This rule prevails in every walk of life.  Industry crowns man's efforts with success.  Brought up in comparative poverty, I have always been surprised at my tendency to spend money.  I have never recklessly thrown it away, neither have I ever denied myself or my family anything within reason which I or they needed.  Every one of my family, except my son Selwyn and myself, enjoyed a trip abroad, and some of them more than one trip.  When Selwyn met his death, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>505</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>470</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>At all times I have been charitable; have assisted in building churches, and aided all charities which I deemed worthy of support.  Any success which has come to me, or any standing I have attained, I owe to the training of my mother and the devotion of my wife.  The former founded my character, the latter has sustained and improved it.  How many years more of life are to be my portion, no one can predict.  Be they few or many, I will be grateful for them, and I hope to continue doing my duty to those who are dependent upon me, and to society generally, as I have done it in the past.  When the end comes, I trust my taking off will not be accompanied by months of helpless inactivity.  When I go, I hope to go, as I have lived, with full steam up.</P>
095.sgm:</BODY><BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>506</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>471</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>507</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>472</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>508</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>473</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>509</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>474</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>510</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>475</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>511</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>476</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>512</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>477</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>513</CONTROLPGNO>
095.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>478</PRINTPGNO>
095.sgm:<P>Stockgrowers' Customs, 167-168.<LB>Stone, Chief of Police, 85.<LB>Stone, Dudley L., 20.<LB>Stoneman, Gen. Geo. H., 173, 265.<LB>Street-car Lines, 97, 100, 101.<LB>Stuart, Griffith, 454.<LB>Sunny Slope, 174.<LB>Surveyors in 1875, 113.<LB>Sutter, John A., 7.<LB>Sweeney, 55, 56.<LB>Sweezy, G. N., 13.<LB>Tapia, Jose Bartolome, Will of, 148.<LB>Taylor, Dave, 11, 12.<LB>Temple Block, 105.<LB>Temple &amp; Workman Bank, 108.<LB>Temple &amp; Workman Failure, 99.<LB>Terminal Island Home, 337.<LB>Terry, Judge, 8.<LB>Texas &amp; Pacific R. R., 98.<LB>The Daily Democrat, 256.<LB>The Pasqualito, 338.<LB>Thomas, L. W., 14, 15.<LB>Thom, Cameron E., 122.<LB>Thompson, Pete, 108.<LB>Title Insurance &amp; Trust Co., 296.<LB>Triest, Karl, 399.<LB>Trout Arrived in Fine Shape, 353.<LB>Turner, Judge, 15, 16.<LB>Turnverein Hall, 128.<LB>United States Hotel, 105.<LB>University of California, 46.<LB>Unruh, H. A., 169.<LB>Van Nuys, I. N., 139, 142.<LB>Vitality of Wounded Animals, 211, 213.<LB>Vote Buying, 255.<LB>Wade, Judge W. P., 11.<LB>Walker's Plain, 245.<LB>Wallace, W. T., 271, 272.<LB>Wall, Joseph, 47.<LB>Wars During My Lifetime, 445.<LB>Wells Fargo &amp; Company's Express, 109, 115, 140.<LB>Western Union Telegraph, 106.<LB>Westminster Gun Club, 192.<LB>Whitesides, Nin, 13.<LB>White, Stephen M., 22, 260-263.<LB>Wheeler, E. D., 13.<LB>Widney, Judge R. M., 269.<LB>Wilkins, Dr. E. T., 14.<LB>Wilson, B. D., 115.<LB>Winters, Theodore, 11.<LB>Wise, Dr. K. D., 110.<LB>Wollweber, Theodore, 107.<LB>Wong Chew Shut, 275-278.<LB>Working During Vacation, 67, 68, 69.<LB>Workman Brothers, 110.<LB>Yarnell, Jesse, 172.<LB>Yuba County, 7.<LB>Yuba River, 12.</P>
096.sgm:<P><hi rend="italics">Canon City--Journey Across Iowa and Kansas</hi>
097.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-097</TITLE>
097.sgm:<TITLE>Letters from California:  its mountains, valleys, plains, lakes, rivers, climate and productions. Also its railroads, cities, towns and people, as seen in 1876.  By D.L. Phillips: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
097.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
097.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
097.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
097.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
097.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
097.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
097.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>17-24794</LCCN>
097.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
097.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>246260</COPYRIGHT>
097.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>LETTERS</P>
097.sgm:<P>FROM</P>
097.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA:</P>
097.sgm:<P>ITS MOUNTAINS, VALLEYS, PLAINS,</P>
097.sgm:<P>LAKES, RIVERS, CLIMATE</P>
097.sgm:<P>AND PRODUCTIONS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>ALSO ITS</P>
097.sgm:<P>RAILROADS, CITIES, TOWNS AND PEOPLE,</P>
097.sgm:<P>AS SEEN IN 1876.</P>
097.sgm:<P>BY</P>
097.sgm:<P>D. L. PHILLIPS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SPRINGFIELD:</P>
097.sgm:<P>ILLINOIS STATE JOURNAL CO.</P>
097.sgm:<P>1877.</P>
097.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>THESE LETTERS</P>
097.sgm:<P>ARE AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED TO THE MEMORY</P>
097.sgm:<P>OF</P>
097.sgm:<P>JOHN EDWARD PHILLIPS, BY</P>
097.sgm:<P>HIS FATHER.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P>I was induced to visit the Pacific Coast in the hope of securing the restoration of the health of my son, who had been pronounced incurably ill, in this climate, of consumption.  My stay in California was so protracted, that my letters to the ILLINOIS STATE JOURNAL became far more numerous than I thought of when the first one was written; and they were made to include a number of topics I did not expect to write about when I left home.  On my return, I was asked by many, whose judgements I greatly respect, to re-publish the letters in a more permanent form than in the columns of a daily paper; but the death of my son, and the many neglected matters occasioned by my long absence, have prevented my doing so until now.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In reproducing, in book-form, my letters, written under so many disadvantages, I beg to say a single word.  I claim for them no literary perfection.  I gave my impressions of what I saw during my journeyings, in such language as suggested itself to me at the moment of writing, and have made no material changes.</P>
097.sgm:<P>I desire permission to thank my friends for their kindly words of approbation of the contents of the letters, and hope that I may be favored with words of equal warmth in again sending to the public these rambling epistles.</P>
097.sgm:<P>D. L. P.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><P>LETTER No. I.<HSEP>PAGE.<LB>The Journey from Springfield to San Francisco,<HSEP>1<LB>Comforts and Annoyances of the Trip,<HSEP>2<LB>The Transfer Nuisance between Council Bluffs and Omaha,<HSEP>3<LB>Passenger Agent Kimball,<HSEP>5<LB>Valley of the Platte,<HSEP>5<LB>Cheyenne,<HSEP>6<LB>The Summit,<HSEP>7<LB>The Dining Stations,<HSEP>8<LB>Characteristics of the Pacific Slope,<HSEP>9<LB>The Humboldt, Truckee and American River Valleys, <HSEP>10<LB>The Arrival at San Francisco,<HSEP>11<LB>LETTER No. II.<LB>Peculiarities of the Climate, <HSEP>12<LB>Early History of San Francisco,<HSEP>12<LB>Its Architectural Characteristics,<HSEP>13<LB>Public Buildings,<HSEP>14<LB>The old Mission Dolores,<HSEP>14<LB>San Francisco Public Schools,<HSEP>14<LB>Public Libraries,<HSEP>15<LB>Manufactures,<HSEP>16 <LB>The California Railroads,<HSEP>17<LB>Scenery,<HSEP>17<LB>Possibilities of a San Francisco Fire,<HSEP>18<LB>LETTER No. III.<LB>The Bank of California,<HSEP>19<LB>Its Suspension and Resumption,<HSEP>20<LB>Whys and Wherefores of Each,<HSEP>21<LB>The Attacks on the Newspapers,<HSEP>22<LB>Reasons Therefor and the Results,<HSEP>23 </P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>IV</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>LETTER No. IV.<LB>A Sea Voyage from San Francisco to San Diego,<HSEP>28<LB>Steaming Out of San Francisco Bay,<HSEP>28<LB>The Cliff House,<HSEP>29<LB>The Famous Seal Rocks, and their Seething Population,<HSEP>29<LB>The Pacific in an Un-Pacific Mood,<HSEP>30<LB>Point Conception, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, etc.,<HSEP>32<LB>Meeting an Illinois Judge in Southern California,<HSEP>35<LB>San Diego, and its Delightful Surroundings,<HSEP>36<LB>LETTER No. V.<LB>Some of the Notable Valleys of California,<HSEP>39<LB>Santa Clara, Gilroy, Pajora and Salinas,<HSEP>44<LB>Their Fruit and Sheep Farms, Flowers and Wonderful Grapes,<HSEP>45<LB>Battle of Monterey: Was the Dead Man Killed or Scared to Death,<HSEP>46<LB>The Field of Fremont's Triumph,<HSEP>47<LB>Monterey: The Old, Sleepy Capital of California,<HSEP>48<LB>Its Present Decaying Condition,<HSEP>48<LB>LETTER No. VI.<LB>The Railroad System of the Gold State,<HSEP>50<LB>The Origin of the Central Pacific Railroad,<HSEP>54<LB>Character and Determination of its Projectors,<HSEP>54<LB>Cutting a Railroad Track in the Face of Perpendicular Cliffs,<HSEP>55<LB>History of the Granger-Railroad War,<HSEP>59<LB>General Review of the Achievements of the Central Pacific R.R. Co.,<HSEP>60<LB>LETTER No. VII.<LB>A Bird's-eye View of California,<HSEP>64<LB>Its Geography and Topography,<HSEP>65<LB>Soils, Minerals and Climate, and other Peculiarities,<HSEP>65 <LB>Its Mountains,<HSEP>66<LB>Its Lake System, Rivers and Remarkable Basins,<HSEP>67<LB>The Present of California and its Future Possibilities, <HSEP>72 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm: <PRINTPGNO>V</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<LB>LETTER No. VIII.<LB>The Spanish Catholic Missions on the Shores of the Pacific,<HSEP>73<LB>California According to the Geographers of the Sixteenth Century,<HSEP>74<LB>Establishment of the Mission at San Diego, July 16, 1769,<HSEP>75<LB>Foundation of the Mission Dolores at San Francisco,<HSEP>75<LB>Secularization of the California Missions by the Mexican Government,<HSEP>76<LB>The facts concerning the Temecula Indians,<HSEP>79<LB>LETTER No. IX.<LB>Climatic Characteristics of California,<HSEP>81<LB>The Dry and the Rainy Seasons,<HSEP>82<LB>Vegetables now in their Prime,<HSEP>83 <LB>The Patient, Prudent, Pig-Eyed Children of the Flowery Kingdom,<HSEP>83<LB>The Temperature at San Francisco and at Other Points in the State,<HSEP>85<LB>Character of Prevailing Diseases,<HSEP>85<LB>The Fuel Question,<HSEP>86<LB>Winter in the Mountains,<HSEP>86<LB>The Miners,<HSEP>86<LB>Mortality Statistics,<HSEP>87<LB>Absence of Longevity,<HSEP>87<LB>Fat Women,<HSEP>87<LB>LETTER No. X.<LB>An Overland Trip to Southern California,<HSEP>88<LB>Tehachipi Pass,<HSEP>89<LB>A Marvel of Railroad Engineering,<HSEP>89<LB>A Mixed Stage Load,<HSEP>90<LB>A Tehachipi Dinner,<HSEP>92<LB>The Southern California Mountains,<HSEP>93<LB>The Mohave Desert and its Discomforts,<HSEP>93 <LB>California Brigands,<HSEP>95<LB>Arrival at Los Angeles,<HSEP>95<LB>LETTER No. XI.<LB>A Sea Voyage to San Diego,<HSEP>96<LB>Getting on Board at San Pedro in a Rough Sea,<HSEP>96<LB>Gen. Vandevere, of Iowa,<HSEP>97<LB>The Temecula Indian Claim,<HSEP>98<LB>An Indian Ring in Southern California,<HSEP>99<LB>Delights of the San Diego Climate,<HSEP>101</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>VI</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>LETTER No. XII.<LB>The Return from San Diego,<HSEP>102<LB>The Voyage to San Pedro,<HSEP>102<LB>Jimmy Larkin, the Steward of the Steamer Ancon,<HSEP>102<LB>A Visit to San Bernardino--Its Location and Early Settlement,<HSEP>103<LB>The Starke House, <HSEP>104<LB>San Bernardino Valley and Mountain,<HSEP>106<LB>The Advantages of the Former as a Resort for Invalids,<HSEP>106<LB>A New Year's Greeting from the Pacific Coast,<HSEP>108<LB>LETTER No. XIII.<LB>San Bernardino and the remarkable Valley of that Name,<HSEP>109<LB>Santa Anna River,<HSEP>109<LB>The Old Mission,<HSEP>110<LB>The Primitive Population,<HSEP>110<LB>The Riverside Colony,<HSEP>110<LB>A Pacific Coast Paradise,<HSEP>112<LB>Profits of Orange Cultivation,<HSEP>113<LB>The Hot Sulphur Springs, etc.,<HSEP>114<LB>LETTER No. XIV.<LB>Further Notes of a Tour in Southern California,<HSEP>116<LB>A Los Angeles Orange and Grape Plantation,<HSEP>116<LB>Baronial Home of Leonard J. Rose,<HSEP>117<LB>Changes of a Generation,<HSEP>119<LB>Gen. George Stoneman,<HSEP>120<LB>Anaheim Colony,<HSEP>120<LB>Mid-Winter Roses,<HSEP>120<LB>A San Fernando Can&tilde;on Breakfast,<HSEP>121<LB>A Hair-Raising Night Ride over Mountain Spurs and beside Yawning Chasms,<HSEP>121<LB>Arrival at San Francisco,<HSEP>121<LB>LETTER No. XV.<LB>The Labor Question in California,<HSEP>122<LB>Wages of Laborers,<HSEP>123<LB>The Incubus of Non-resident Land-owners,<HSEP>125<LB>Some of the Great Landed Estates,<HSEP>125<LB>The Water Monopolies,<HSEP>127<LB>The Great Want of the State,<HSEP>128</P>
097.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm: <PRINTPGNO>VII</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>LETTER No. XVI.<LB>The Chinese Question,<HSEP>130<LB>The Celestials on the Pacific Coast,<HSEP>131<LB>Their Women,<HSEP>131<LB>Co-operative Stores,<HSEP>133<LB>The Anti-Chinese Prejudice and its Cause,<HSEP>133<LB>What California Owes to these Patient, Industrious Toilers,<HSEP>135<LB>The Chinese Question in Politics,<HSEP>136<LB>LETTER No. XVII.<LB>The Rainy Season in California,<HSEP>137<LB>Prospective Large Crops,<HSEP>137<LB>The Tule Lands of the Sacramento Valley,<HSEP>138<LB>Price of Articles of Domestic Use in San Francisco,<HSEP>138<LB>Money Kings of California,<HSEP>139<LB>Tendency to Indulge in Stock-Gambling,<HSEP>139<LB>Political and Other Drawbacks,<HSEP>140<LB>Liquor Consumption,<HSEP>141<LB>State Legislature,<HSEP>141<LB>Disgraceful Bullyism,<HSEP>142<LB>LETTER No. XVIII.<LB>The Land Troubles of a Ring-Cursed State,<HSEP>144<LB>A New Officer, with Dangerous Powers,<HSEP>145<LB>Inquiry into Validity of Titles Covered by Mexican Grants,<HSEP>145<LB>The Results Likely to Inure to Real Estate,<HSEP>146<LB>The Baronial Estates, etc.,<HSEP>147<LB>LETTER No. XIX.<LB>History of the Religious Movement on the Pacific Coast,<HSEP>150<LB>The Early Mining Population and its Reckless Character,<HSEP>151<LB>Mixed Nationalities,<HSEP>151<LB>The First Protestant Ministers and their Work,<HSEP>152<LB>Summing up of Results,<HSEP>155 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm: <PRINTPGNO>VIII</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<LB>LETTER No. XX.<LB>California Jockeyism,<HSEP>158<LB>Celebrating Washington's Birthday,<HSEP>158<LB>The Thirty Thousand Dollar Horse Race,<HSEP>158<LB>A Plundered Crowd,<HSEP>160<LB>Holiday Soldiering and its Ludicrous Features,<HSEP>161<LB>A Gathering of Another Sort,<HSEP>162<LB>The Union Veteran Legion,<HSEP>163<LB>LETTER No. XXI.<LB>Conclusion of Pacific Coast Letters,<HSEP>164<LB>Departure from San Francisco,<HSEP>164<LB>Cities, Towns, and other Noticeable Points <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
097.sgm:,<HSEP>165<LB>Incidents of the Return Journey,<HSEP>166<LB>Narrow Escape from being Snow-bound,<HSEP>167<LB>Mid-Winter Scenery,<HSEP>167<LB>Grand View at Sherman,<HSEP>168<LB>Descent into the Fertile Plains of Nebraska, and Arrival in Illinois,<HSEP>169</P>
097.sgm:<BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. I.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Journey from Springfield to San Francisco--Comforts and Annoyances of the Trip--The Transfer Nuisance between Council Bluffs and Omaha--Passenger Agent Kimball--Valley of the Platte--Cheyenne--The Summit--The Dining Stations--Characteristics of the Pacific Slope--The Humboldt, Truckee and American River Valleys--The Arrival at San Francisco</HI>
097.sgm:<P>A TRIP across the continent is no longer a noteworthy incident in the life of an American citizen.  The Orient and the Occident are forever joined together by bands of iron and steel, and the great trans-continental highway, with one terminus holding the trade and commerce of the Atlantic and the other grasping the wealth of the Pacific, is too familiar to the reader to warrant the waste of either time or space in anything like an extended description.</P>
097.sgm:<P>To one who, like myself, had not visited the Pacific coast, the journey from Springfield, by the way of Chicago, to Omaha and San Francisco, was like a fairy tale--"a thing of beauty and a joy forever."</P>
097.sgm:<P>The country between Chicago and Omaha spanned by the Rock Island and Pacific railroad, is a magnificent portion of the great Valley of the Mississippi, of which no citizen of any one of the great central States of this Union can ever cease to be justly proud.  In that great valley, and in those proud States, shall forever reside the all-controlling, coherent power which shall combine in one harmonious whole the family of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>We had intended to go from Chicago to Omaha, over the Chicago and Northwestern railway, whose able and accomplished superintendent, Marvin Hughitt, Esq., had kindly furnished us transportation over his lines; but on the evening of the 8th instant he informed us that the floods, which then prevailed all over Western Iowa, had impeded travel on the Northwestern road, and advised us not to move until he had informed us, on the morning of the 9th, as to its condition.  Early in the morning, he advised us that his lines were broken, and no trains for Omaha would attempt to leave Chicago that day.  On inquiring, we learned that the Rock Island and Pacific railroad was undisturbed, and its trains would leave on time.  Hugh Riddle, Esq., the general superintendent of the road, with that courtesy that marks so prominently his official life, and makes his lines so popular with the traveling public, furnished us with transportation over his road to Omaha, thus showing that an editor is not always unappreciated, and that railroad managers know how to sympathize with the feelings of one wending his weary way to a remote portion of the earth, seeking a new climate--a new atmosphere--in the hope of prolonging the life of an individual member of his family.  In this public manner, the writer desires to say to Messrs. Hughitt and Riddle that their kindness and tender solicitude for the comfort and welfare of himself and son, an almost helpless invalid, will be garnered up among the precious treasures of memory, never to be forgotten, and will be worth far more than the silver of Nevada or the gold of California.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The trip to Omaha--or, rather, to Council Bluffs, the western terminus of the Rock Island and Pacific railroad--could not have been more pleasant.  The management of the line seems to be almost perfect.  From the terminal station of the five or six railways at Council Bluffs, it is, including the bridge across the Missouri river, about four miles to Omaha.  These four miles, including the bridge, belong to a distinct corporation, independent of any of the roads on either side of the river.  It is called the "Transfer Company," or something of that sort.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 10th instant, the Rock Island and Pacific railroad delivered, at the eastern end of this "transfer" line, in the open prairie, on the platform without cover, nine car loads of passengers--men, women and children.  The baggage, that was checked through to Omaha, was unmercifully tumbled out of the cars on the platform, flung on trucks, and thence into ordinary box-cars, to be "transferred" to Omaha.  The writer saw a lady, with three children, load her trunk and other articles of baggage on a truck, and haul it to the train, and with her own hands place it on the cars, to be taken across the river, while overgrown, lazy "galoots," in the employ of this corporation licensed to plunder passengers, were walking about, manifesting about as much interest in the passengers as they would have done in so many Texas steers.  For more than an hour did we wait, when at last the "transfer train" arrived.  It came, locomotive in front, and coupled on to the box-cars into which had been tumbled the baggage, express and mail matter.  The engine was thus feruled at the head with box-cars and at the tail with passenger coaches.  Of course there was a rush for the latter, when it was found that more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:than one-half of them were locked up.  Those unlocked were speedily as much crammed as returning cars from a State fair, or on an excursion on the 4th of July; while the platforms on the locked cars were crowded to suffocation, and not for ten minutes--and until the absolute impossibility of crowding humanity any farther into the unlocked cars was evident--were the others opened.  I heard a late Major General make a car smell of brimstone by his cogent expletives; he declared afterwards that he had not delivered himself, <HI REND="italics">ore rotundo</HI>
097.sgm:, so extensively for years before.  The crowd <HI REND="italics">indorsed</HI>
097.sgm: all he said.  The President, Attorney General, Congress--somebody--ought to break up this diabolical nuisance and steal.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
097.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Since the above was written, the Supreme Court of the United States has remedied the evil, in a final decision making Council Bluffs, in Iowa, the eastern terminus of the Union Pacific railroad.</NOTE>
097.sgm:<P>A HAPPY CHANGE.</P>
097.sgm:<P>At Omaha, the annoyances and troubles of the traveler cease.  The excellence of the management of the Union Pacific railroad could not well be improved.  A just sense of obligation to the traveler seems to manifest itself in every servant of the road, from the general superintendent down to the brakemen.  Nothing necessary to the comfort of passengers is overlooked or omitted.  The physical condition of the road is, in all respects, first-class, and the cars are as clean, airy and luxurious as any in the United States.</P>
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097.sgm:<P>Among the officers of the company, and as an old and warmly esteemed friend, I wish to make special mention of Thomas L. Kimball, Esq., the able, accomplished, faithful, and universally popular General Ticket and Passenger Agent of the road.  Mr. Kimball has, measurably, spent his life in railroad service.  He was long the western freight and passenger agent of the Pennsylvania Railway, in Chicago, from whence he was transferred to his present position at Omaha.  This gentleman met us on the platform when we stepped from the dirty cars of the double-ender "transfer train," and if anything was omitted to make our trip to San Francisco comfortable and pleasant, neither Mr. Kimball nor the writer will ever know it.  He secured our tickets, checked our baggage, selected our sleeping-berths--the very best in the sleeping car--and in these courtesies saved us the annoyances incident to standing for half an hour to get tickets and another half hour in checking baggage, each piece of which is carefully weighed if too heavy, and fifteen cents per pound charged on the excess of all baggage to San Francisco weighing over 100 pounds for each person.  Ours, Mr. Kimball checked through in person.  We speak especially of Mr. Kimball, first, as a friend and for his friendly offices, and in the second place, to commend one of the best officers we know of in the railroad service in the country.</P>
097.sgm:<P>CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COUNTRY.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The trains for San Francisco leave Omaha about noon.  Nothing can be more pleasant than the afternoon run up the Platte river.  A better country for agricultural purposes can not be found west of the Missouri than that which stretches back of Omaha for 350 miles, up the Platte Valley.  Here the hardy emigrants of 1855-6, during the days of the Kansas troubles, found peaceful, quiet homes, and twenty years have filled this beautiful country with a population equal in industry, intelligence and morals to any in the country.  Hundreds of great farms lie on each side of the river.  Bright, cheerful residences greet the eye, and barns and out-buildings of all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>It is not until you reach the western limits of Nebraska, and touch the eastern borders of Wyoming Territory, that the mountains are discovered.  They are first seen about Bushnell, 460 miles west from Omaha.  Here Pike's Peak, lying far to the southwest, in the Territory of Colorado, and other lofty peaks of the Rocky Mountains, are seen pushing their snowcapped summits high towards heaven, and gleaming in the sunlight like burnished silver.  To the northwest lie the Black Hills, looking like banks of clouds piled up against the far distant horizon.  As Cheyenne is approached, and the outlines of the mountains become more and more clearly defined, the vegetable kingdom fades out of sight.  First the trees, then the grass, the weeds and flowers, and then all else save the perpetual, everlasting sage brush, which hangs on to the very waters of the Pacific Ocean.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Cheyenne is a place from whence supplies to the distant forts and mines will be sent for many years, and hence it will continue to be a place of much importance.  It has many good and substantial brick houses, some fine stores and public buildings, and indicates a good degree of thrift and enterprise; but it has no trees, no shrubs, no flowers, no gardens.  Around it, as far as the eye can reach, all is a barren, treeless and ashen waste.</P>
097.sgm:<P>West of Cheyenne, without any sharp curves or heavy grades, the summits of the mountains are reached at Sherman, the highest point between Omaha and San Francisco, being an elevation of 8,242 feet above the level of the sea.  At this great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>ROCKY MOUNTAIN SCENERY.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The impressiveness of the scenery in the Rocky Mountains is not so overwhelming as the fancy of the poet would suggest.  Gradually and steadily, for half a day, the mountains are approached.  The ascending grades of the road bring you more and more to their level.  You see no fearful yawning chasms below, nor cloud-piercing mountains hanging over you.  The mighty hills continue their well-rounded and wavy successions upward and upward, while their summits are constantly and easily reached through depression succeeding depression, until the summit at Sherman is attained.  Here the grandeur of the scenery reaches the sublime, and <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Rocks on rocks, promiscuous hurl'd,<LB>Seem fragments of a former world."<LB></HI>
097.sgm:<P>Pike's Peak, and many other historic elevations of these mountains, some of them 175 miles distant, are seen rearing their awful heads in the sky, seemingly only a few miles distant.  The mountains are almost absolutely bare of verdure, and there is only here and there a stunted pine or oak, that seem to have warred forever for footholds in these scenes of weird and awful desolation.</P>
097.sgm:<P>From the summit the descent is rapid, and the only very noticeable point is Dale's Creek Bridge--a structure across a ravine, at the bottom of which lies the little silver thread of a stream, 126 feet below the rails.  The bridge is of wood, some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>But the grandest scenery is found in the Wahsatch Mountains, east of Ogden.  The trains pick their way from can&tilde;on to can&tilde;on, while for many miles the mountains tower in vast beetling cliffs overhead, thousands of feet high.  In the presence of such awfully sublime scenery one does not care to talk.  Indeed, I noticed that there was not much conversation as we swept along and around these mighty monuments of Infinite Power, as well as mute but overwhelming witnesses of the littleness of man.</P>
097.sgm:<P>TOWNS, STATIONS AND SETTLEMENTS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Of the towns, stations and dining places along the road, nestled in these mountain fastnesses, it is unnecessary to speak.  They are small, but answer fully the ends and purposes for which they were intended.  The eating places are all under railroad control, if not owned by the companies, and can not be too highly spoken of.  The food is good, ample in variety, and ample time is given to eat it.  At all these places, the railroad companies--both the Union and Central Pacific--have managed to have a cool front yard, some trees, shrubs and flowers, and a bubbling fountain with an irrigated garden in the rear.  Sometimes the water is brought for many miles--in one instance I was told it was piped to the station from a point 15 miles distant.  These are "oases" indeed.  The force of that word never impressed my mind as during our trip over these roads.</P>
097.sgm:<P>On Weber river, some distance east of Ogden, are seen two Mormon settlements.  They lie on both sides of Weber river, a stream about as large as Spring creek, near Springfield.  Their lands are all irrigated.  Their houses are small, and their farms match the houses, and I should think that the crops fitly harmonize with the houses and farms.  The corn was dismally small, the potatoes looked small, and all else ran in the same groove.  It seems to me that the Mormons pay a pretty high figure for their peculiar "twin relict of barbarism."  I incline to the belief that, if Illinois farmers had to make livings on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>ON THE WESTWARD SLOPE.</P>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>THE SACRAMENTO VALLEY.</P>
097.sgm:<P>From Sacramento to San Francisco the distance is 140 miles.  The country down the Valley of the Sacramento is as level as a floor, and aside from the towns, of which the pretty little cities of Stockton and Lathrop are the chief ones, there is little to interest the eye, except wind-mills, which no man can number, scattered all over the valley, to pump water.  In some places the eye was actually teased and tantalized with these mills, and the impression would force itself on the mind that each farmer had tried to see how many he could put up.  In some instances, both in the country and towns, they seemed actually perched up on the gable end of the family residence, and a tub or tank set up in the back yard, after the similitude of a railroad water tank, which is kept pumped full, both for domestic use and the irrigation of the garden.  This is all right, as nothing ever freezes, so the pipes and hose are all safe; but the sensation of one of those wind-mill pumps, churning away almost on the top of the house, would, it seems, be about as unpleasant as it used to be to sleep in a room in a hotel adjoining an old-fashioned screw elevator.  Besides, the things are not, to the eye, architecturally, a very handsome appendage to the finish of the house.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The approach to San Francisco, or to the head of the bay of that name, is through some treeless hills, anything but pleasing to the eye; but, as soon as the bay is in view, verdure and beauty break upon the senses in all directions, for the suburbs of Oakland, the prettiest city in California, are then reached.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>The evening of the day on which we arrived at San Francisco, after leaving Oakland and running out on the pier three miles into the bay, in the direction of San Francisco, was most uncomfortably cool.  A heavy fog, late in the afternoon, invests the city at this time of the year, and the winds from the ocean are chilly and severe on persons of weak lungs or feeble constitutions.  On reaching the city we drove at once to the Grand Hotel, where we kept a good fire burning in our rooms until we retired for the night.  The next day a fire burned in our rooms all day, and was a most grateful relief from the chilly air and piercing wind which blew gently in the forenoon, and increased to a stiff breeze after 1 o'clock.</P>
097.sgm:<P>My impressions of San Francisco, its trade, banks, exchange and other things, must be reserved for another letter, as this is now far too long.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Sept</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. II.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Peculiarities of the Climate--Early History of San Francisco--Its Architectural Characteristics--Public Buildings--The old Mission Dolores--San Francisco Public Schools--Public Libraries--Manufactures--The California Railroads--Scenery--Possibilities of a San Francisco Fire</HI>
097.sgm:<P>MY letter of the 27th left us in our rooms at the Grand Hotel, in this city, warming ourselves by a fire which would be grateful in Springfield on a cold day in November.  The difficulty with the climate here is this: the trade winds blow the entire summer from the Ocean, and after 12 o'clock, meridian, often become very strong.  These, added to the fogs which hang over the city during the mornings and evenings at all seasons except during winter, completely obscuring the sun, make the air of San Francisco anything but pleasant to invalids or anybody else.  This evening, while I write, the windows are closed and the room is damp and chilly--far too much so for comfort.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In 1835 a Captain Richardson put up the first house ever erected in this city, now teeming with a population of 200,000 souls.  Forty years ago, except the little wooden tenement built by Richardson, the site of this great commercial metropolis of the Pacific Coast consisted of a number of dreary sand hills, a few small depressions and bits of flat lands, buttressed up in the rear by the frowning fragments of the Coast Range mountains.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The best business portion of the city stands upon made land or lands filled in to reach deep water in the bay.  Twenty-five years ago, Montgomery street was next the water, or Front street.  Now, between it and the docks are Battery, Sansome, Davis and Front streets--four blocks--and upon this made land stand the great business houses, the site of the United States Postoffice and Custom House, and five of the largest hotels in the city; and here, on this new earth, the bulk of the business of the city is transacted.  Market Street is to San Francisco, what State street is, and is to be, to Chicago.  It extends back through the city, at right angles with the harbor; is wide, level, and being rapidly lined, on either hand, with buildings of the best class.  It needs a good pavement, as do most of the streets, especially those in the lower or old portion of the city.  Cobble stones, and asphaltum and wooden sidewalks, are behind the times in such a city.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The shipping and great docks lie to the east of the city, where the bay has been filled in until water has been reached varying in depth from twenty to forty feet--amply sufficient for the heaviest vessels in the world to ride in safety.</P>
097.sgm:<P>ARCHITECTURE.</P>
097.sgm:<P>San Francisco, in its architectural features, looks very much like Chicago did before the fire.  Magnificent buildings, four or five stories high, of iron and stone, stand along side of mean, wooden, tumble-down structures dating back in their erection to the glorious days now so precious to the memories of the old California "Eighteen hundred and forty-niners."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The new business blocks are equal to the best in Chicago, while few cities can boast of more elegant private residences than San Francisco can.  Indeed, I have never seen anywhere such expensive and elaborate wooden houses as can be counted by the hundreds.  Many of them have cost sums of money which astonish one.  For instance, ex-Governor Leland Stanford, President of the Central Pacific railroad, is now completing a residence on the corner of California and Powell streets, overlooking the whole city, which will cost more than one million of dollars, and such an outlay of money neither provokes criticism nor excites surprise.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE UNITED STATES MINT,</P>
097.sgm:<P>on Mission street, is the finest public building on the coast.  The appraiser's stores are to be equally imposing and substantial.  A scheme is already perfected for a City Hall, which is intended to be the finest in the Union.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE OLD MISSION DOLORES,</P>
097.sgm:<P>immortalized by the genius of Captain Derby (John Ph&oelig;nix), in his report of the organization of his corps of engineers and his explorations and preliminary survey of a railroad, still stands at the corner of Dolores and Sixteenth streets.  It was established a century ago by Spanish Jesuits, when nearly every spot on the Pacific coast, as well as everything else, was baptismally named after some San or Santa in the papal calendar.  The old adobe buildings of the Mission lend a dismal hue to a rather repulsive portion of the city.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SCHOOLS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The free schools of San Francisco are, I should judge, in a most flourishing condition, and admirably managed.  The school houses are equal to those of any city in the country.  Of the forty-eight schools, two are high schools, twelve grammar, twenty-three primary, two colored, and nine in the suburbs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The cost of each pupil to the city, for the year, was $29.76.  In the primary schools, each pupil cost $19.20; in the grammar schools, about $31.25; and in the two high schools, $79.80.  The total municipal expenses of the city last year amounted to $3,197,808.30, and of this amount $689,022 was expended on the schools--a sum equal to 21 1/2 per cent of the total revenues of the city.  The two high schools furnish nearly all the teachers in the city.  The French and German languages are taught in four grammar and eight primary schools, but pupils are not required by law to study any other than the English, and no pupil can study more than one other than the English language.  In 1874, 1,514 pupils studied French, and 3,308 German, being nearly one-sixth of the pupils attending all the schools.</P>
097.sgm:<P>LIBRARIES.</P>
097.sgm:<P>As a result of the interest taken in educational matters, large libraries have already been collected in this city, which do honor to those engaged in their collection.  I can only note that--</P>
097.sgm:<P>The Mercantile Library, the oldest in the city, has about 40,000 volumes.  The roll of membership numbers about 1,700; the admission fee is $2, and quarterly dues $3.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The Mechanics' Institute has about 26,000 volumes.  Its admission fee is $1, and quarterly payments thereafter of $1.50.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The Odd Fellows' Library, founded in 1854, has about 27,000 volumes, including the most valuable and extensive collections of documents and books, relating to the history of the Pacific coast, in the world.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>The San Francisco Law Library consists of about 13,500 volumes.  It is by far the largest collection of legal literature in the State.  Any member of the bar in the State may become a member by paying $100 in gold.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The Young Men's Christian Association has a library of about 4,500 volumes, and it is free to all.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Besides the above, there is a small military library which is said to be rich in very valuable maps and charts.</P>
097.sgm:<P>I am indebted, for these and other facts, to a very valuable little <HI REND="italics">Guide</HI>
097.sgm:<P>MANUFACTURING.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Of necessity, the coast on the Pacific ocean had to furnish, in a great degree, its own wants in agricultural implements, carriages, wagons, steam machinery, and all else required in the diversified interests of such a State as California.  The results are, that, both here and at Sacramento, the manufacturing interests have absorbed many millions of dollars, and now, utterly unlike the States in the Valley of the Mississippi, San Francisco is, in many districts, a great hive of manufacturing industry.  Furniture, of every pattern and style of finish, is made in quantities to meet all demands.  One of the finest carriage manufactories in the country is engaged, on a large scale, in turning out carriages of all patterns.  Furnaces, forges and foundries, boiler factories and engine building, employ many thousands of mechanics and laborers; and their roar and busy hum can be heard constantly.  These people even went to Chicago and picked up and brought away the Cornell Watch Factory, and it is here in full blast, filled with workmen from the East, and amongst them several of the boys from our own Springfield Watch Factory.  Some of them called on us the second night after we reached here.  J. K. Bigelow, John Blood, J. W. Fuller and Mr. Lake, are all here.  The boys were delighted to see us, and we were as glad to see them.  But San Francisco has captured them.  They all seem to think that it is <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
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097.sgm:<P>THE RAILROADS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The great railroad of the coast is, as all the world knows, the Central Pacific.  It has been said, that the corporation owning this railroad owns California.  As to the truth of this I can not say; but it is fair to say, that, aside from mining, this corporation has contributed more to the growth of the State, for the past ten years, than all else besides.  It has steadily been a vast purchaser of supplies from the farmers, of the products of the soil, and in the construction of its vast machine shops, rolling mills and foundries, and in their operation, it has given constant employment to perhaps 10,000 mechanics and laborers, to whom it has paid many millions of dollars.  But of this corporation I expect to write at length in a future letter.  I can only say now, that <HI REND="italics">without</HI>
097.sgm:<P>SCENERY.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The surroundings of San Francisco are not at all impressive, excepts as the sparkling waters of the beautiful bay and the remote crags and peaks of the Coast Range Mountains make it a place of natural attraction.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The site, as I have already said, is all sand.  The foot-hills to the mountains in the distance are rocky, and are, like the sand, about the color of ashes.  The hills and depressions are utterly bare--no trees, no shrubs, no grass.  All are arid and cheerlessly bare.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The city is pushed out to and into these rocky, sandy hills, and, as yet, there has not been time to grow trees and shrubbery.  It is true that many trees, and much ornamental shrubbery have been planted in the front yards and in the gardens of the city, and many beautifully arranged flower gardens and front yards may be seen; but beyond these appear the barren hills and ashen depressions, suggestive of the wearying alkaline wastes west of Salt Lake City.</P>
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097.sgm:<P>TOO MUCH WOOD.</P>
097.sgm:<P>After passing back from Front street about six blocks, wooden houses begin to predominate, and they increase in numbers until everything is wood.  These structures, many of them gorgeous specimens of architectural taste, are three and four stories high above an old fashioned English basement--such basement being a substitute for a cellar--and continue, jammed solidly against each other, full of people and all kinds of business, for blocks and miles, and finally break up and straggle out to the limits of the city--wood, wood, continually.</P>
097.sgm:<P>San Francisco is, with few exceptions, paved with wood.  There are a few streets paved with cobble stones; a very few with the granite block pavement--Belgian, I believe; a few have the Nicholson; but the vast majority of them are simply floored with two and a half inch pine plank.  Most of them are much worn, and the heads of the forty-penny nails are trying to the soles of men and women, as well as to the feet of horses.  No one familiar with the great Chicago fire of 1871, can fail, in rambling over San Francisco, to see food for a fire, liable to break out any windy day, that would fill the country with consternation and horror.  In such a fire, in this dry climate, <HI REND="italics">the streets would burn up</HI>
097.sgm:<P>It is claimed that the Fire Department here is the best in the United States.  It is to be hoped that this is so, as it surely ought to be in the presence of such constant danger from fires.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Across the vast distance intervening, I send kindly greetings to all who may stop for a moment and think of a wanderer from home, and also to friends and loved ones.  I write these lines in sight of the placid waters of the Pacific Ocean, at 8 1/2 o'clock in the morning, while they, in Springfield, are taking dinner.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Oct</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. III.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Bank of California--Its Suspension and Resumption--Whys and Wherefores of Each--The Attacks on the Newspapers--Reasons Therefor, and the Results</HI>
097.sgm:<P>NOW that the Bank of California has opened its doors, resumed business, and, in the language of its champions and friends, is "stronger than it ever was before, and has gold enough in its vaults to accommodate the whole Pacific coast," it may not be amiss to let the public have such facts as may be of value about the bank's suspension, what led to it, and how it came to resume; also, why the two leading newspapers here have been so violently denounced, and a frantic attempt made, if not to destroy their offices by violence, certainly to destroy their business and make their property valueless.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE BANK OF CALIFORNIA</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is the oldest banking establishment on this coast.  From its organization until it closed its doors, some two months ago, it had always been regarded by the general public as one of the strongest banks in the United States; while abroad, on account of basing all its transactions on gold, its credit was equal to any bank in North America.  In England and all foreign countries, its correspondents were found at all important commercial centres.  Its paid up capital was $5,000,000 in gold.  Its stockholders have always been the most wealthy, enterprising and sagacious of the many enormously rich men in California.  It has been the financial centre of the State, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The dividends of the bank have been always large, and its stock eagerly sought after.  A seat in its board of managers was conclusive proof of great wealth, or that which indicated the certainty of riches speedily to be realized, and an official elevation to be coveted and envied.</P>
097.sgm:<P>For many years, under the administration of D. O. Mills, Esq., as president, the bank was managed, not only with great ability, but, it seems, with that care and conservatism which insured great prosperity and success; and if that policy had been adhered to, it would have been a guaranty of a solid, enduring career for many years to come.  Mr. Mills was simply a banker, using the best known methods of conducting an institution having for its customers the miners of the Pacific slope, the great agricultural interests of this coast and its trade to China, Japan, the Sandwich Islands, Mexico and the various governments of South America.  It kept out of all illegitimate schemes of financial operation until Mr. Mills retired to improve his beautiful country seat at Millbrae, near this city, and to enjoy an ample fortune acquired by many years of prudent, active and successful business.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Mr. Mills was succeeded in the presidency of the bank by William C. Ralston, under whose control the conservatism of former years seems to have been regarded as behind the times, and the prudent rules of banking as not quite the thing for the great Bank of California.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The deposits of the bank were very large, the ambition of its president was without limit, his ability great, his industry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The controlling of the supplies of fresh water for San Francisco, and the angry controversies which grew out of attempts, as charged, to secure improper and oppressive legislation, whereby Mr. Ralston and his partners could make the tax-payers of the city bleed to the extent of $15,000,000 for water and water-works which cost less than $6,000,000, was another source of bitter controversy also, in which it is charged that the newspapers, or at least the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
097.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
097.sgm:<P>While these vast schemes were being planned and executed, it is quite evident now that the bank, by the attacks made upon it and its president was much weakened, and, in the meantime, another and more potential antagonist than either the irritated public or the newspapers, was gradually preparing to grapple with Mr. Ralston.  This was the combined wealth and mining interest of California and Nevada, represented by the banking house, in San Francisco, of</P>
097.sgm:<P>FLOOD &amp; O'BRIEN.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The capital of the Bank of California was $5,000,000 in gold, fully paid up.  Its deposits amounted to from $12,000,000 to $15,000,000, so that it controlled a capital, in gold, of from $17,000,000 to $19,000,000--a sum sufficient to wield, anywhere, an immense power--and it had, for years, controlled the money matters of this State.  But Ralston seems to have failed, shrewd as he was, to see that the mines of the consolidated Virginia Mining Company, of Nevada, mainly owned by the Flood &amp; O'Brien party, were pouring into California street more than $1,000,000 of gold and silver each month, until it was too late.  When he discovered that the available coin banking capital of California, including deposits, was verging actually to $80,000,000, of which his bank owned but $5,000,000 and controlled but $12,000,000 or $15,000,000 more--less than one-fifth--he made his last grand struggle, and that was, to obtain such a share of the productive mining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The prompt transfer by Mr. Ralston of all his property to the bank, showing that he did not intend to wrong it, and was willing to retire poor, coupled with his tragic death, disarms criticism, and we can only regret that, blinded by ambition and dazzled by seeming success, his administration should have been so disastrous to the Bank of California and to himself.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE RESUMPTION OF THE BANK</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is an unusual event in the history of institutions which have closed their doors and suspended business.  It is claimed by many as a splendid demonstration of the recuperating powers of business when transacted on a specie basis; and by others, eulogy is exhausted on the stockholders for coming forward and putting their hands in their pockets and making safe the depositors, and enabling the bank to again open its doors and resume business.  Giving full credit to William Sharon, Mr. Mills, Mr. Baldwin, Mr. Keene, and all others, for what they have done in aid of the bank, let us see if they could have done any less, if they had tried.  It must be remembered that these gentlemen are reported to be the owners ofcolossal fortunes, and that the others, who contributed as subscribers to the new stock, are also very rich.  Take them altogether, and their fortunes will aggregate many times over the debts of the bank.  Some of them were officers of the bank and also heavy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:depositors, to whom, in great part, it is indebted.  As officers and shareholders, depositors and creditors, they knew how the president had used their money and that of the other depositors.  They all knew that its capital stock had been mostly <HI REND="italics">withdrawn</HI>
097.sgm: <HI REND="italics">withdrawn</HI>
097.sgm: and its liabilities increased largely <HI REND="italics">in excess of its capital</HI>
097.sgm:<P>The men who made the Constitution of California were wise men--just men.  They did their work, down in the old sleepy Spanish town of Monterey, most remarkably well.  They are nearly all dead, but, as shown in this bank failure, their work survives and comes in in demonstration of their good sense and honesty, which, supplemented by a law of this State, passed many years ago, compelled Mr. Sharon and his associates to do the very thing they have done.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Article IV, of the Constitution of California, says:</P>
097.sgm:<P>Sec. 32.  Dues from corporations shall be secured by such <HI REND="italics">individual liability</HI>
097.sgm:<P>Sec. 36.  Each stockholder of a corporation or joint stock association shall be <HI REND="italics">individually and personally liable for his proportion of all its debts and liabilities</HI>
097.sgm:<P>And then the General Laws, Hittell's edition, 1872, vol. 1, subject, "Corporations," chap. 1:</P>
097.sgm:<P>Sec. 12.  Each stockholder of any corporation shall be <HI REND="italics">severally, individually and personally liable</HI>
097.sgm:<P>Sec. 13.  It shall not be lawful for the directors or managers of any incorporated company in this State to make dividends, excepting from the surplus profits arising from the business of such corporation; and it shall not be lawful for the directors of any such company to divide, <HI REND="italics">withdraw, or in any way pay to the stockholders, or any of them, any part of the capital stock</HI>
097.sgm: of such company, or to <HI REND="italics">reduce</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Sec. 14.  The total amount of the debts which any incorporated company shall owe, shall not, at any time, exceed the amount of the capital stock actually paid in; and in case of any excess, the directors under whose administration the same may have happened, except those who may have caused their dissent therefrom to be entered at large on the minutes of the said directors at the time, and except those who were not present when the same did happen, shall, in their individual and private capacities, jointly and severally be liable for such excess to the said corporation, and in the event of its dissolution, to any of the creditors thereof to the full amount of such excess.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It will be seen, at a glance, that under the provisions of the constitution and law, as quoted, Messrs. Sharon, Mills, Keene, Baldwin, and others, as officers and stockholders, were individually and severally liable for every dollar owing by the bank at the time it suspended, and for them there was no escape.  The result was, that they accepted time paper--say at three, six, nine and twelve months--in payment of their own deposits, formed a syndicate among themselves, had the bank increase its capital stock to the extent of about $8,000,000, subscribed that amount, paying in, in coin, 10 per cent., thereby making a sum equal to that due to depositors other than themselves, and also the amount due parties holding letters of credit abroad, thus enabling the bank to open its doors.  They declined to make a statement of the liabilities and assets of the bank when it opened, but determined simply to resume and go on with business.  Their enemies here were waiting for them to publish a statement of their assets and liabilities, expecting thereby to secure an opportunity to demonstrate what they had charged as to the insolvency of the bank, and to have it put into liquidation, so that a full examination might be had into all the doings of the board of directors and officers.  These hopes and expectations have all been most sadly dashed by the action of Mr. Sharon and his associates in re-opening the bank.  And now it is to be hoped that no other calamity will overtake this great institution.  Mr. Mills, who has been re-instated in the presidency of the bank, and who has staked $1,000,000 of his estate on its fortunes, will, beyond doubt, hold it steadily within the just limits of conservative banking.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>I want to say a word about the newspapers here which have been the objects of such bitter and unrelenting persecution at the hands of the friends of the late Mr. Ralston--I mean the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
097.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
097.sgm:.  I have no interest in these papers or their owners.  They attacked Mr. Ralston and his friends about their schemes to monopolize all the fresh water near the city, with a view to realizing a vast fortune out of the wants of the taxpayers.  Excepting, always, unjust and improper personal abuse, a journal is to be commended for its vigilance in guarding the interests of the community against wrong and outrage.  The <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
097.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
097.sgm: did no more than they should in battling for <HI REND="italics">free</HI>
097.sgm: water--or at least <HI REND="italics">cheap</HI>
097.sgm:<P>I do not believe the papers named will suffer any permanent injury.  On the contrary, people, at last, will rally to their support, and they will be benefited by the assaults made upon them.  The highest compliment I have heard paid yet, in California, to these two leading newspapers, was by a most bitter enemy.  When asked why they could not be managed like the other papers, he angrily replied, that " <HI REND="italics">they</HI>
097.sgm:<P>I do not pretend to indorse any personal assaults made by either of these journals on Mr. Ralston, or any one else.  Such journalism is inexcusable.  But I do say they had the right to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Oct</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. IV.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Sea Voyage from San Francisco to San Diego--Steaming Out of San Francisco Bay--The Cliff House--The Famous Seal Rocks, and their Seething Population--The Pacific in an Un-Pacific Mood--Point Conception, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, etc.--Meeting an Illinois Judge in Southern California--San Diego, and its Delightful Surroundings</HI>
097.sgm:<P>ON the morning of the 12th instant, under a sky of singular beauty and serenity, we embarked on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Ancon</HI>
097.sgm:<P>THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO,</P>
097.sgm:<P>On the morning of our departure, was as smooth almost as a mirror, and there was scarcely wind enough to swell the sails of the numerous tiny craft that lay almost motionless on its waters.  Our ship steamed slowly out in the bay, and floated quietly down, through the shipping, towards the "Golden Gate."  The view of San Francisco was perfect, and its long streets, stretching far up towards Lone Mountain, with their thousands of carriages, wagons and pedestrians, were distinctly visible.  As we neared the entrance to the bay, we discovered that outside a stiff breeze was sweeping the ocean, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>As we rounded out to sea, the Cliff House, a noted pleasure resort, nestled in the side of the bluffs overlooking the ocean, and connected with San Francisco by the best road in the State, came in full view.  This famous house overlooks, and is about 200 yards from, the</P>
097.sgm:<P>SEAL ROCKS,</P>
097.sgm:<P>which rise to an elevation of perhaps 80 feet above the boiling, roaring surf that breaks into whitened foam at their bases.  We had read much of the huge sea lions that sprawl, scramble and scream about these rocks, and expected to see a few of the unshapely and unseemly monsters.  Our vessel passed to the seaward within 40 rods of the rocks, and we beheld a sight which defied description.  The waves were breaking against the rocks with great fury, and the spray on the northwestern side reached almost to their summits, and then would recede, leaving the boiling waters nearly black with the heads of the sea lions struggling upwards to get a successful hold of some point which might serve as a footing for an ascent out of the water.  The rocks themselves were literally covered with these strange looking creatures.  They were asleep by hundreds, packed away as thick as they could lie.  Many of them had slept until their brown colored hair had become dry, and made a most singular contrast with the black and shining monsters that had not been so long out of the water.  Many of them were tumbling about, with their sharp-pointed heads erected in the air, uttering a noise combining all the peculiarities of a yelp, a bark and a howl.  They could have been heard for miles.  There were hundreds of them, and may have been a thousand.  On the top of the largest rock was, apparently, the "champion" sea lion of the crowd.  He, from the noise he made, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>As anticipated, when we reached the mouth of the Bay of San Francisco--the world-famed</P>
097.sgm:<P>GOLDEN GATE,</P>
097.sgm:<P>the day proved anything but pleasant.  The winds blew steadily from the north-west, and with increasing force until mid-afternoon, when the ocean had become quite rough.  Heavy fogs gathered over the agitated waters, and the air was chill and damp.  Shawls, overcoats and mufflers were in very general demand.  The dinner table was not crowded, as many sought their berths in disgust, having given to the fishes and hungry gulls their morning meal as a compromise with Neptune.  The increasing size of the long waves sweeping in resistless force, the constantly increasing roll of the vessel, the density of the fog and the scream of the fog whistle, with the chilliness of the air, gave the ship a most cheerless appearance.  Women and children sought privacy in their staterooms with looks of woe-begone resignation to the penalty of travel by sea, while great, stalwart land-lubbers of men stretched themselves on the floors of the cabins and groaned and heaved to any imaginable extent.  But the good ship, steady to her course to the south-east, with her engines in full play, and her <HI REND="italics">sails set</HI>
097.sgm:, careered over the vast waste of waters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:like a thing of life, and, with the tremendous momentum of that irrational force that overcomes winds and waves, and is fast revolutionizing not only methods of travel, but contributing so much to the intelligence, comfort and safety of mankind, inspired confidence that the good ship <HI REND="italics">Ancon</HI>
097.sgm:<P>At the dawn of day on the morning of the 13th, the air was still cold, the fog dense, the sea heavy.  During the morning, a couple of sharks were seen astern the vessel, and in their rapid motions the cut-water fins on their backs gave out a most unpleasant hissing noise.  Just before reaching Point Conception 245 miles from San Francisco, we saw an immense</P>
097.sgm:<P>SCHOOL OF PORPOISES.</P>
097.sgm:<P>They were about the color of Scotch snuff.  When first discovered, a half mile to the left and on the bow of the ship, they were directing their course to the south-west.  The fog having somewhat lifted, we got a good view of the singular creatures.  When they discovered the ship, their course was somewhat changed, and they passed under the stern of the vessel.  Their motions in swimming remind one very much of an immense drove of hogs on a full run.  In their jumps they lifted themselves, at times, so much out of the water as to be fully visible.</P>
097.sgm:<P>During the afternoon of the 13th, the fog cleared away and the sun came out, disclosing the headlands of the coast projecting themselves into the sea, and giving now and then a very fine view of the waves, in the distance, thundering against the shore and recoiling in long rolls of snow-white spray, while, in the back ground, the Coast Range mountains rear their barren summits from two to four thousand feet above the ocean.  During the entire day, flocks of sea-gulls followed the steamer, circling round and round the vessel, watching for the garbage from the cook house, or crumbs from the ship's table, with a keenness of vision I never saw equalled.  The moment anything eatable by them touched the water, scores of them would fall as if they had been shot, and with unerring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>POINT CONCEPTION</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is surmounted with a beautiful light-house, reached at an elevation of perhaps 2,000 feet by an inclined railway.  As the point of land was rounded, the Stars and Stripes were seen to ascend the flag-staff of the light-house, the colors of the ship were dipped in token of the sovereignty of "The Star-Spangled Banner," and the shrill whistle of the steamer saluted the lonely watchers of the commerce of the Pacific Coast.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Point Conception is the dividing line between an agitated and a tranquil sea--between warm and cool weather.  As soon as we rounded it, turning almost directly east, the ocean became as placid as the undisturbed waters of one of our little inland lakes.  The winds ceased, and the vessel rode as calmly as a steamboat on the Illinois river.  The air changed and became warm, and the sun came out, and all was as cheerful as one of our delightful, balmy May mornings in the Valley of the Mississippi.  From this "Point" to Santa Barbara the distance is forty miles.  The run was made in full view of land the entire distance.  At one place were seen cropping out, to the water's edge, mines of pure asphaltum, said to be inexhaustible, and, just before reaching the roadstead of Santa Barbara, extending out some four miles from land, and stretching along the shore for a couple of miles, the entire surface of the water is covered with petroleum, which, when disturbed by the vessel, gives back all the odors so familiar to those who, in other days, "struck ile" in the Oil Regions of Pennsylvania.  The general conclusion is, that this petroleum comes from a spring in the bottom of the ocean, which is reached at a distance of forty or fifty feet.  In support of this conclusion is the fact, that after careful examinations and numerous borings on the flat lands on the shore, which are here perhaps a mile wide, no indications of the fluid could be found.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA</P>
097.sgm:<P>Two hundred and eighty-five miles from San Francisco, was reached at 4 o'clock P.M., thirty-one hours after leaving the Golden Gate.  The place has no harbor, in the proper sense of that word.  It has a very well protected roadstead and any required depth of water.  The general "trend" of the coast is southeast, but just before reaching Santa Barbara a bold mountain headland projects itself perpendicularly far out to sea, its southern face extending east and west, perhaps a mile; it then slopes rapidly to the east, until it reaches almost a level with the sea.  Upon this level spot, running directly north some five miles, and walled in on the east, first by small foot-hills a mile away and then by towering and almost perpendicular mountains full 3,000 feet high, stands far-famed Santa Barbara.  The vessel landed at the pier made of pilings, extending perhaps 2,500 feet into the water.  This pier is well floored and sufficiently wide for carriages to safely pass each other.  At the end is a good dock, well floored, and of ample dimensions for freight, passengers, and a roomy warehouse.</P>
097.sgm:<P>From what I have said above, the reader will understand that the little valley is walled in on the east, north and west with mountains, opening full to the south on the roadstead.  The site is really very pretty, and from the adjacent mountain streams, and in wells, the town, or city, as it is called by the inhabitants, is supplied with good water.  There are some fine California oaks scattered about town and back in the valley and on the mountain slopes west of the town, while many have been planted and are already relieving the valley of the barren appearance common to the towns of Southern California.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara is much larger and better built than I had supposed.  Its citizens will tell you they have 6,000 inhabitants, and I think they really have from 3,500 to 4,000.  Many of the streets are broad, smoothly graveled, and very handsome.  The houses, generally, are good, some very handsome, and the public houses are highly creditable to the place.  A new and quite large hotel is just being finished, being the largest, perhaps, in the State, outside of San Francisco.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The population of Santa Barbara is made up, mainly, of people who have sought it as a place where lost health may be recovered, the diseases from which they have suffered be stayed, and life prolonged.  The majority are very largely from east of the Alleghanies, and perhaps from New England.  As a result, the place has good churches, schools, and a society not excelled for morality, order and intelligence in any of the older States.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The air of Santa Barbara is very agreeable, mild and salubrious, and especially beneficial to those suffering from diseases of the throat and lungs.  Indeed, it seems to be admitted by those best able to judge, that the three best places in California for persons suffering from pulmonary affections, are Santa Barbara, San Diego and San Bernardino.  I think the preponderance of opinion is, however, in favor, first of San Diego, then Santa Barbara, and San Bernardino last.  Los Angeles is regarded as too warm at certain seasons of the year, and, therefore, too debilitating.</P>
097.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 14th the steamer lay moored in the</P>
097.sgm:<P>BAY OF SAN PEDRO,</P>
097.sgm:<P>Three hundred and seventy-five miles from San Francisco, and by river and rail twenty-eight miles from Los Angeles.  As the vessel was to remain, discharging and receiving freight, until evening, we took passage on the little steamer "Los Angeles," six miles up the river of the same name, to the town of Wilmington, whose inhabitants flatter themselves that when the bar at the mouth of the river is dredged out so as to let in vessels of heavy burden, they will have a city which will fairly rival Los Angeles, now the third in population in the State.  The United States Government have a steam dredge employed in removing the bar, with good prospects of speedy success.  At Wilmington we took the cars of the Southern Pacific Railroad to</P>
097.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES,</P>
097.sgm:<P>Which place was reached at 9 o'clock A.M.  The city is built at the base of the mesa lands of the mountains and partly on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The secret of the prosperous condition of Los Angeles is water.  In all parts of Southern California water is everything.  With it the desert becomes orchards and gardens; without it, orchards and gardens become a desert.  Los Angeles river, and the flowing wells found everywhere, furnish flumes and ditches of clear and rapid-running water in all directions, ample for purposes of irrigation throughout the valley.</P>
097.sgm:<P>At Los Angeles we met our old friend and former fellow-citizen, HON. H. K. S. O'MELVENEY, So long judge of the Centralia circuit.  He is judge of Los Angeles county, and is very highly esteemed.  He is out of politics entirely, but expressed great satisfaction at the defeat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>At 4 o'clock P.M. we returned to the vessel, and at daylight, on the morning of the 15th, landed at the dock of San Diego, and found waiting for us our old and highly cherished friend, Col. Daniel B. Bush, who commanded, during the war, the gallant old Second Cavalry Regiment from Illinois.  Col. Bush is the brother-in-law of Hons. O. M. Hatch and Alex. Starne, and an honor here to his friends and the State that retained him so long in its service.  The delicate, cordial and tender reception given to our invalid son by Col. Bush, his wife and daughter--a reception which implied a home and that care and interest which loving hearts alone can bestow--produced emotions not proper to describe here.  It is enough to say to those who planned and prepared that reception--more than one thousand leagues away--that memory, sympathy, thankfulness and gratitude swept across the vast distance, and embraced them all in one, God bless them!</P>
097.sgm:<P>The city of</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN DIEGO,</P>
097.sgm:<P>is not the old San Diego of the days of John Ph&oelig;nix and Judge Ames' San Diego <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
097.sgm:<P>The bay is the finest on the coast of California, that of San Francisco excepted.  Its entrance is free from danger for the largest ships, and in the harbor the shipping of the continent might ride with perfect ease and safety.  The town has about 2,500 people, many good stores, two banks, one first class hotel, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>About San Diego, as elsewhere in Southern California, there is no timber at all.  The country now is bare of any green thing except the sage brush and the many varieties of the cactus, some of which are ten feet high.  Still, in this delightful climate--it could not be more so--anything will grow when planted and watered.  Much will grow without water, except such as falls during the rainy season.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In company with Major Levi Chase, a leading lawyer here, who is a brother-in-law to Mr. King, the confectioner of Springfield--having married Miss Cornelia King, a niece of the late W. W. Watson, and who will be readily remembered by many in Springfield--I was, on yesterday, driven out five miles, to see the places of Messrs. Swan and Asher--the first from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The arable lands of this ranch can be made of great value, as an abundance of water can be had from wells for purposes of irrigation.  They are encircled by mountains and exempt from both winds and frosts.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It is but proper to say, that, while San Diego county fronts on the Pacific Ocean 100 miles, and extends back eastward 200 miles to Arizona, containing 20,000 square miles, a territory as large as one-third of Illinois, it has not more than 500 square miles, if so much, of land that can be cultivated.  The remainder is mountains and the Mohave Desert; 16,000 acres of really good lands, therefore, in the hands of Major Chase and a few others, within from 12 to 15 miles of San Diego, is a large fortune.  Such land is valued, in gold, at from $15 to $30 per acre.  Ordinarily the cultivated spots around San Diego--and they are not very numerous--average from five to ten acres; some more.  The ranch of Mr. Higgins, formerly of Chicago, is the best cultivated in the county, but I have not seen it.  It is 20 miles from San Diego.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Oct</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. V.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Some of the Notable Valleys of California--Santa Clara, Gilroy, Pajora and Salinas--Their Fruit and Sheep Farms, Flowers, and Wonderful Grapes--The Battle of Monterey: Was the Dead Man Killed or Scared to Death?--The Field of Fremont's Triumph--Monterey: The Old, Sleepy Capital of California--Its Present Decaying Condition</HI>
097.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA is noted for its "valleys."  The word valley is almost synonymous with water--either running or easily obtained by digging wells--fertility of soil and good crops, yielding rich returns for the toil of the husbandman, gardener and fruit grower.  Within a few hours' travel of San Francisco there are many of these bodies of land, which already furnish beautiful country seats for the wealthy men of this city, and farms on a broad scale, from which fortunes are realized almost every year.  In this letter I propose to notice four of the most noted of these beautiful plains, nestled between the hoary and barren peaks of the Coast Range mountains, traversed by the Southern Pacific Railroad, and lying within 150 miles of San Francisco.  The first of these is the</P>
097.sgm:<P>VALLEY OF SANTA CLARA.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In a southeasterly direction, fourteen miles from this city, the Southern Pacific Railroad cuts through a range of the foothills, or "mesa lands," as they are called, and enters the Santa <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Before any settlements were made, this must have been one of the most remarkable pieces of natural landscape gardening in the world.  It was covered over with the California oak, a tree most singular in appearance and well worth a passing notice, as it is the same in all parts of the State.  It is, I think, of the species <HI REND="italics">Quercus Alba</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>The land is rich everywhere in the Santa Clara Valley, and large crops, especially of wheat, are planted, grown and harvested with about one-half the labor bestowed on that crop in Illinois.  Farmers tell you about raising fifty bushels of wheat to the acre, but as an average yield the statement is an absurdity.  I have not been able to procure reliable grain statistics, but am satisfied that the crop does not average more than twenty bushels to the acre, and that is far above the yield of any of the States of the Northwest.  In addition to wheat, oats, barley and rye do well, and are profitable crops.  Wheat is, however, by far the most profitable.  It is often sown from year to year upon harrowed stubble ground, which has been pastured during the rainless months, from the first of June to the first of November, and it is a matter of great surprise to one familiar with the labor bestowed by our Illinois farmers on their wheat land in fallowing, plowing, harrowing, and then planting carefully with a seed drill, and reaping from fifteen to twenty bushels to the acre, to see these California farmers cut their wheat from land where perhaps ten crops have been cut in as many years before, turn their horses and cattle on the dry stubble, keeping them fat until the middle of October, then harrow the dry ground, and when the rains come in November and December, plant their wheat with a drill, and reap in the following May a better crop than can be had in Sangamon county.  A great many farmers are discussing the propriety of more and deeper plowing to secure heavier crops than heretofore, and some are resorting to it.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Wheat, in all these valleys, is mostly cut by the "header" machines, thus leaving the straw in the field, which becomes excellent hay, as there are neither dews nor rains to injure its nutritive qualities.  Cattle and horses keep fat on this stubble, and horses do good work without any other feed whatever.  The wheat is threshed, put in bags and piled up in the open air, in some place secure from the stock, and there left until it suits the convenience of the farmer to send it to market.  I have seen many thousands of bushels so left in the sack which had been out for weeks.  When wheat is cut by the ordinary reaper, after it is threshed out, the straw is stacked for use, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>But what the valley of Santa Clara is most noted for are the houses, gardens, orchards and vineyards.  Many of the country seats are very beautiful.  The houses--all of wood--in architectural taste, size and finish, are equal to the best in the vicinity of Chicago or St. Louis.  The outbuildings, the land-scape gardening, the shrubs and flowers, the drives, bridle-paths and walks, are equal to any in the country.  This evening, as I write, the country seats of D. O. Mills, M. S. Latham, and scores of others in Millbrae, Menlo Park, San Jose, Santa Clara, San Mateo, Redwood City, and other places in the valley, present an array of flowers of the most gorgeous character.  In the grounds of these places the tube rose can be found, five or more feet high; pinks, in the largest quantities, three feet high, and as double and very nearly as large as a George the Fourth rose.  In all of these can be found geraniums, six and seven feet high, covered with the most brilliant flowers, and the petunias, gladioluses, fuchsias, verbenas and wax-flowers, grow to great size, as compared with similar flowers in the East.  The phlox is perennial.  Common roses, of all classes, bloom the year round.  The castor bean ( <HI REND="italics">Palma Christi</HI>
097.sgm: ) is a tree.  I have seen them fifteen feet high, and four and five inches in diameter.  In one instance, I saw a cactus full fifteen feet high.  It had been pruned, and had a round trunk, eight inches in diameter, eight feet to the first limb.  The top was perfectly symmetrical, and the boughs were laden with its thorny, red fruit.  Many of the trees are evergreen, such as the red-wood, the cedar, the pine, the sequoia, the eucalyptus and the pepper tree.  These are the glory of California, and especially is this so of the eucalyptus and pepper trees.  The first is, in some degree, shaped like the Lombardy poplar.  Its leaves are broad and pinnated, and as brilliant, in its early growth, as burnished silver.  The first year, from the seed, it often grows ten feet high; in five years it becomes a shade tree, fifty or sixty feet high, with boughs covered perpetually with the most exquisite foilage.  It is as free from worms, dead leaves and branches as can be, and its wood, when seasoned, is almost as hard as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<HI REND="italics">lignum vit&aelig;</HI>
097.sgm:<P>The towns of note in the Santa Clara Valley are,</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN JOSE,</P>
097.sgm:<P>A city of 10,000 people, fifty miles from San Francisco, and the handsomest place, next after Oakland, in the State.  Its streets are laid off at right angles with each other, broad, well paved and lined on either hand with as fine shops, stores and offices as can be found anywhere.  It has two banking buildings which would do credit to Chicago, and two first-class hotels.  Its court house is the finest in California.  The State Normal School building, now filled with about 450 students, is a wooden structure, and as handsome and large as our Normal School building at Normal.  San Jose has hundreds of residences which, with their gardens and grounds filled with trees, shrubbery and flowers, constantly make one feel that it is a little paradise in this delightful valley.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In San Jose, I found a number of Illinoisans.  The sheriff of the county is Mr. Adams, a native of Alton.  Hon. E. O. Smith, once of Decatur, has here a beautiful home.  C. G. Harrison, his family and two sisters, I think natives of Belleville, are here, and rich.  Judge Murdock, once editor of the Alton <HI REND="italics">Telegraph</HI>
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097.sgm:<P>SANTA CLARA</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is situated three miles west of San Jose, across the Gaudalupe river, a small stream which becomes dry during the summer.  It is the seat of two colleges, one belonging to the Methodist Episcopal Church and the other to the Catholics.  Both are prosperous, and filled with students.  I saw Bishop Peck, of New York, on the streets of Santa Clara.  His step was firm, and under his massive brow his eye gleamed with all the fervor of many years ago.  The bishop is a man of great learning and vast ability.  I hoped to hear him preach, but did not.  He is wielding a great influence for good on this coast, and is the prince of his church and people.  He has grown old and grey, but will do much honest work yet before he dies.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The cities of Santa Clara and San Jose are connected by the <HI REND="italics">Alameda</HI>
097.sgm:, a road as level as a floor, three miles long, and shaded by double rows of willow trees on each side.  These trees were planted in 1799.  The <HI REND="italics">Alameda</HI>
097.sgm:<P>For miles around these cities, vineyards and orchards extend in all directions.  Pears do well, apples moderately so, but the grape crop is immense.  I wish I could show my readers bunches of the Rose of Peru, Reisling, Muscat, Black Hamburg, Chasselais and Flame Tokay grapes, produced here in the open air.  I have seen them by the ten thousands, many of which, especially the Flame Tokay, the Chasselais, the Black Hamburg and Muscat of Alexandria, would weigh from three to five pounds to the bunch.  The vines are neither trellised nor staked.  The stock is cut from four to six feet high, and becomes, in six or seven years, three or four inches in diameter, and is stout enough to bear its fruit.  The yield this year is very great, and grapes are very cheap.  I have heard of hundreds of tons of the Mission grape, somewhat like our Concord, but not so good for the table, being sold to the vintners for 37 cents per 100 pounds.  I have bought white Muscats, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The general reader, and especially the ladies, have heard much about</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE CENTURY PLANT,</P>
097.sgm:<P>Which, fable says, grows a hundred years, blooms once, and dies.  That is very pretty and poetic.  But I have seen these plants here, nine years after planting out, run up twenty-five feet high, six inches in diameter of the floral shaft, a huge tuft of branching, white flowers at the top; and others, which had blossomed, gone to seed and died, and as dry as a seasoned pole, while the plant at the root was taking a fresh start.  So much for the century plant.  One gets a good deal of the romance of life knocked out of him as he travels around--that is, if he keeps his eyes open.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE GILROY VALLEY.</P>
097.sgm:<P>This body of land is, perhaps, twenty-five miles long.  It has the same soil, climate, and productive qualities as the Santa Clara, and is, really, a part of that valley, geographically; but it seems ambitious of its own distinction.  It produces a great many sheep.  I saw more thousands than I should like to state.  It is enough to say that mutton is not scarce about the town of Gilroy, which boasts a couple of thousand inhabitants.  It is a new town, having mainly sprung up since the completion of the railroad through the valley.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The New Almadin quick-silver range passes through Gilroy township.  Asphaltum and coal tar are found in large quantities near the town.</P>
097.sgm:<P>PAJORA VALLEY</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is the third of the fertile tracts of land embosomed in these mountains, and though the smallest, it is, in its productive capabilities, in proportion to size, the richest of them all.  It is about ten miles long and from three to five miles wide, and may be termed a great wheat field, with many beautiful houses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The last of these four valleys is the</P>
097.sgm:<P>SALINAS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It is about forty miles long by twenty broad.  In some places it may not be more than twelve miles wide.  It is a genuine prairie.  The upper end of it rests upon Monterey Bay, and has some worthless salt marsh lands.  Running through these tide water marshes, one can see along the indentations of the bay hundreds of solemn-looking pelicans, with bills bowed on their baggy throats, appearing to take a most unfavorable view of affairs generally.  As we ran along the inlets of the bay, ducks, gulls and other fowl, in great flocks, took to wing and got away; but the melancholy pelican stood his ground, merely resting himself on the other leg as we passed.  I wished for a good double-barreled shot-gun.  In that case, it struck me, I could have made the feathered biped a little more lively than when we left him.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Near Castroville, a place of about 100 inhabitants, more or less, was pointed out, on a small eminence, the field whereon Fremont, in 1846, fought and won the memorable</P>
097.sgm:<P>BATTLE OF MONTEREY.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The dead was buried on the field.  He consisted of <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
097.sgm: man, and his last resting place on the field of his glory is marked by a board cross.  His name has not been transmitted, so his history is lost to the long list of heroes.  It is not recorded whether he fought under the Stars and Stripes, or died on the side of the valorous Greasers; nor is it told whether he was shot, piked, sabred to the waist, or scared to death.  None of these things are known.  But <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"On fame's eternal camping ground,<LB>His silent tent is spread;<LB>And glory guards, with solemn round,<LB>The bivouac of the dead."--<LB></HI>
097.sgm:<P>or words to that effect.  Still, that battle of Monterey did the business--it gave the <HI REND="italics">coup de grace</HI>
097.sgm: to Mexican rule, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>But I must get back to Salinas Valley.  It is only a few years since it was regarded as fit only for cow pasture.  Now, it is one of the most prolific wheat fields in the State, and land that five years ago was worth $2.50 and $5 per acre, is now worth $40, $60, or even $75 per acre.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In the midst of this valley stands the town of Salinas.  It is five years old, and has 3,000 inhabitants.  It is not a shanty town, either.  It has one street, a mile long, well paved with cobble stone and gravel, and on this street are stores, shops, offices, hotels, and the usual number of saloons; but it is a marvel when you remember that the town is not yet five years old.  One of the hotels is better built and better furnished than any in Springfield, the Leland excepted.  If the question be asked, whence this remarkable growth?  I answer, that it is the new county seat of Monterey county; and also, that it is in the centre of one of the finest tracts of farming lands in California, and only 120 miles from San Francisco.  Farmers and dairymen have realized fortunes in a few years, and especially since the railroad has been opened to San Francisco.  But the day has gone by when cheap lands can be had in these valleys.  The poor man must look elsewhere.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Before closing this letter I want to say a word or two about the old State Capital--</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>MONTEREY.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It is situated on the bay of that name, and is connected with Salinas, its successful rival for the county-seat, by a narrow-guage railroad seventeen miles long.  I went over with my sick boy, and we stayed during the evening and over night there.  In the days of Mexican domination, and when Spain owned Mexico, Monterey was a penal town.  It was called <HI REND="italics">Monte del Rey</HI>
097.sgm:, since contracted to Monterey.  Some of the very old people there are the children of convicts sent to this place for some crime not worthy of death, but of transportation.  It is beautifully located in a long sloping cove in the mountains, which are yet covered with majestic pines.  Its outlook on the bay, the entrance to which is 20 miles broad, is magnificent, and it well deserved the name of the "Mountain of the King."  It has a good wharf, and plenty of water for vessels of 2,500 tons burden.  It was here that Sherman, Halleck and Ord--all Lieutenants--came in 1846.  It was here the Spaniards, or old Californians, had an adobe fort guarding the harbor and town.  The pile of adobe dirt still remains.  The officers named, or some one soon after them, put up some barracks back and south of the old Spanish mud fort.  These barracks stand deserted and alone.  Here the State Capital of California was located for a time; and the convention that framed the present Constitution of this State sat here.  The old "State House" still stands--a house in which Baker, and Campbell, and many others, now dead, poured out their glowing and prophetic eloquence on the glorious future of the Golden State.  But they are dead, and so is the town.  Some one will point out to you a cow shed of a house, and tell you that, when the capital was here, that was the "theater."  Think of Baker, Campbell, McDougall and others attending such a concern as that as a play house!  The place has in it about 1,000 people, and it is simply, now, a Mexican town.  There is not a good modern American house in the place, and but few Americans.  There are three or four adobe two-story, long drawn out houses, with double porches in front, built perhaps a hundred years ago.  But they are all in decay.  The descendants of those who built them have squandered what was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:left them, and they are now poor, idle, ignorant and lazy--some of them drunken, dirty and vicious.  They hang around the groceries, sitting in the sun on their heels, gambling jack-knives, trinkets and plugs of tobacco, and live on what comes to them.  They leer at the stranger, saunter around and watch him, and if a good chance should occur, they would not mind taking a trifle from him.  The women seem as worthless as the men.  You see them slipping along the streets--sidewalks they have none--in their blue or brown coarse woolen garb, with the eternal <HI REND="italics">rebosa</HI>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Oct</HI>
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097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. VI.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Railroad System of the Gold State--The Origin of the Central Pacific Railroad--Character and Determination of its Projectors--Cutting a Railroad Track in the Face of Perpendicular Cliffs--General Review of the Achievements of the Central Pacific Railroad Company, and What It Has Done for California--History of the Granger-Railroad War on the Pacific Coast</HI>
097.sgm:<P>THE State of California has 150,000 square miles of territory, almost three times the number of Illinois; but it is, in a large measure, a State of vast mountains and very high hills.  It has not, perhaps, one-half, and possibly not one-third, the number of square miles of arable land to be found in Illinois, and much of that is far less productive than that of our own great State.  The mountains are grand, poetic, sublime.  They may mix and mingle with the fervid, spread-eagle oratory of the 4th of July, and harmonize with the flights of the bird of freedom, when he fixes his gleaming eye on the sun, and pierces the heavens, to guard the eyrie of his mate as she feeds her eaglets on the dizzy heights; but these are about their immediate uses.  You can not farm them; they are too elevated for that.  They do not "pan out" to any extent in mining, or yield much to feed either man or brute.  The truth is, they are very unhandy and very much in the way, and especially so when you attempt to travel over them or to build railroads among them.  This has been found to be true <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>After looking over the State, and summing up the difficulties that stood in the way of railroad building fifteen years ago, and remembering the obstacles which have been overcome, and that so many miles of railway are now in operation, I am astonished, first, at the faith of the men in their ultimate success who undertook such gigantic tasks, and, in the second place, at the results achieved.</P>
097.sgm:<P>At the breaking out of the rebellion in 1861, California had no well digested scheme of railroad improvements.  For years the question had been discussed, re-discussed and laid aside. San Francisco controlled most of the wealth of the State.  It was intensely Democratic, with its chief city in political control.  The Gwinns, Terrys, Benhams and their co-laborers in the interests of Democratic ascendency on this coast, had no time to build railroads.  They were only intent on holding the State in the orthodox faith of the defenders of the "peculiar institution."  San Francisco had not a single dollar to invest in railways across the continent.  Its citizens owned the steamboats that ran between here and Sacramento, and this city was the great commercial entrepot on the Pacific slope.  What more was wanted?  A few men, however, about Sacramento, were not content.  They felt that if the State ever amounted to anything, it must have railroads, and especially one which should forever link them to the land of their fathers and the flag of their country.  This trans-continental dream had flitted across the minds of a few merchants in Sacramento, and had disturbed the waking hours of Col. William Gilpin, an advanced thinker, patriot and soldier, as he had wandered backward and forward from the Mississippi river to the Rocky Mountains, and beyond.  But, up to the beginning of the war, no settled plan had been adopted--nothing done, excepting as described hereafter.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The Secessionists, who swarmed in California from 1855 to 1861, did not want a railroad that should connect them by bands of iron to the States of the Mississippi Valley, the Northwest and the Federal Union.  Dissevered from the Union, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Huntington &amp; Hopkins</HI>
097.sgm:<P>--two genuine, old-fashioned Yankees, the first from Connecticut, and the latter from Massachusetts.  They were Republicans, of course--started out as such at the organization of the party, and are so yet.  An upper room over the store was headquarters for Republicans.  It was here they discussed politics, and organized to fight the Democratic party in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD</P>
097.sgm:<P>themselves.  They elected Leland Stanford President, C. P. Huntington Vice President, and Mark Hopkins Treasurer.  That was fourteen years ago, and all these men remain in office to-day.  There never has been any change.  The hardware business began to look as if it was going to be lost sight of, and that it might suffer; but such has not been the case.  The old, dingy Sacramento house, in Sacramento, stands yet, and has a good stock of hardware; and another and more pretentious house, with the sign of "Huntington &amp; Hopkins" over the door-way, may be seen in San Francisco, just a few steps off Market street, by any one curious to look at it, where a very large stock of hardware may be found.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Huntington was sent to Washington to secure a land grant and subsidy from Congress, and succeeded, so that, in 1862, this little Sacramento company found itself in full possession of an elephant of unusual proportions, and started out to raise money, in the midst of a great civil war, to build a railway through plains, hills and mountains, a distance of almost 900 miles--and not one of them knew anything about practical railroad building at all.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Before they could get any bonds, under the act of Congress, they had to build and equip a portion of the road.  This was done by Stanford and his associates pledging all they had in the world for the money.  When this had been done, there was some trouble about getting the bonds from the United States for the division completed, and many months went by, during which time a heavy interest account was running up.  The mercantile judgment of these men was equal to the emergency.  They had a valuable granite quarry the State <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Huntington went to reside in New York, and manage financial matters.  He set out with the grim determination that he would not pay a dollar of commissions for anything.  He sold his bonds for cash, and paid cash for what he purchased.  Iron, spikes, fish-bars, bolts, locomotives--everything used, came by way of the Isthmus of Panama and Cape Horn.  The bonds of the United States went down to forty cents (gold) on the dollar; freights more than doubled, and everything used in constructing the road rose vastly in value.  Still, these indomitable merchants pressed the work.  At one time they kept 500 men at work for a whole year, paying them out of their own private pockets.  But they never went in debt.  They kept men at work, but paid them all at the end of the month.  So they never had a floating debt.  They determined to have a first-class road, and they got it.  There is no more durable and substantial road in America than the Central Pacific.  In places they literally hewed out of the Sierra Nevada Mountains a track for their iron.  At Cape Horn, a point near Colfax, about 200 miles from San Francisco, the track of the road in the side of the mountain is said to be about 1,300 feet above the bed of the American river.  It is cut out of the mountain side, almost perpendicular at this point; and it is stated, that to enable the Chinamen to drill and blast out a foothold, they were suspended from the summit of the mountain with ropes around their bodies, and so held until they accomplished their work.  I do not think an Irishman, brave and ready as he is in railroad work, could have been hired with money to perform so awful a task.  Just think of it: these Chinamen dangling by ropes 1,300 feet up the sides of a mountain cliff, cutting away a place, out of the solid rock, for a railroad track!  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>A TREATY WITH THE INDIANS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Charles Crocker, Esq., tells an amusing story of diplomacy with the Indians.  Somewhere in Nevada, a tribe got involved in difficulty with the Chinese, and fired into a house belonging to the company, and threatened general war on the employees.  Crocker says that Durant and his people had employed United States troops all the time, even to guard the engineers of the Union Pacific Railroad Company, while the Central people took their chances and gave the Government no trouble.  In the instance above alluded to, they consulted and came to the conclusion that while no <HI REND="italics">State</HI>
097.sgm: could enter into any treaty with a foreign nation, there was no law to prevent a <HI REND="italics">corporation</HI>
097.sgm: from doing so; and, thereupon, they empowered their embassador--an old chap with a woolen shirt on and who could talk Indian--to go out and make a treaty with the exasperated red-skins.  He was armed with a large sheet of flat cap, decorated with bright red ribbons on each side, to be written on as he and the Indians might agree.  The terms of the treaty were, that the Indians should not attack the company's houses any more, or molest any of its property, or shoot the Chinamen.  The company, on its part, was to give <HI REND="italics">free rides</HI>
097.sgm: to the Indians, their squaws and papooses, whenever they desired.  The treaty was formally ratified by the high contracting parties, and duly signed and witnessed in duplicate, and thereafter all was peace.  Crocker says, the Indians would come in, light their pipes, gravely mount the construction train, look solemn, ride off thirty or forty miles, wait for the train to load up, then get on, ride back, and march off like lords, never saying a word; and they have not had any trouble in the execution of the treaty.  Huntington objected on the score of a sound financial policy.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Crocker tells another story, of how a Shoshone Indian brave came from a long distance to see the trains.  He waited patiently, sitting flat on the ground near the track, until the train came in sight.  He then rose erect, and firmly planted himself to meet the coming monster.  The train consisted of two engines and thirty car-loads of iron.  As it swept past, the Indian stood firm, with his eyes looking as if they would start from their sockets.  When the (to him) hideous thing had passed, he started up and exclaimed: "Ugh! heap wagon, no hoss!"</P>
097.sgm:<P>The Central Pacific Railroad Company have not only built the road through the mountains to Ogden, but have secured the line from Sacramento to Redding, 152 miles due north, in the direction of Oregon, soon to be continued and connected at Roseberg, Oregon, with the line to Portland.  From Lathrop the company has also built a line in the San Joaquin Valley, extending to Goshen, 146 1/2 miles, and other shorter lines.  It also controls and operates, substantially, all the lines of the Southern Pacific Railroad in Southern California, extending from San Francisco, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
097.sgm:<P>To show exactly the financial condition of this vast corporation that had its origin in the little city of Sacramento, backed up and supported by five merchants, now among the most notable of railroad builders in the world--four of them still living, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Total of assets<HSEP>$183,971,054 84</P>
097.sgm:<P>Total of liabilities<HSEP>80,924,775 13</P>
097.sgm:<P>Net to shareholders <HSEP>$103,046,279 71</P>
097.sgm:<P>Gross earnings for the year ending July, 1875<HSEP>$14,531,355 36</P>
097.sgm:<P>Net earnings<HSEP>8,342,808 76</P>
097.sgm:<P>These earnings are from the lines of the Central Pacific alone.  The earnings of the 339 miles of the Southern Pacific are not included in the annual report.  The figures I give indicate results unparalleled in the history of railroads in the United States, if not in the world.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The company has no floating debt.  Its bonds in the markets on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean are little less valuable than those of the United States, and henceforth eight per cent. per annum, gold, is to be paid by way of dividend on the stock.</P>
097.sgm:<P>A most noticeable thing about this company is, that all it does is done well.  There is nothing slip-shod anywhere.  Its cars, locomotives, shops, houses, wharves, boats, docks--everything--are first-class.  From Ogden to San Francisco the track is equal to any road in the country, while its forty miles of snow-sheds have nothing to compare with them in any country.  Everything shows care, labor, economy and good judgment.</P>
097.sgm:<P>PRESIDENT STANFORD</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is a hard-working, unpretending, able man; watchful of the vast interests which have been confided to his hands from the beginning.  Mark Hopkins, Esq., the treasurer, knows nothing but honest, manly toil.  He is the Colbert of the corporation.  The care of the accountant in the hardware store has always controlled in the office of the treasurer of the Central Pacific Railroad Company.  A. N. Towne, Esq., the General Superintendent, had fourteen years training on the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad, and now justly ranks among the first railroad managers of the country.</P>
097.sgm:<P>I have not seen a vain, conceited employee in the service of the Central Pacific Railroad Company, except a subordinate in the Land Department, whose ill-manners and impertinence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>THE RAILROAD WAR.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It will be remembered that Gov. Booth, some years ago, abandoned the party that elected him Governor, and made war on the Central Pacific Railroad Company as the great enemy of California, and, on the popular wave of excitement, was elected to the United States Senate.  The charges made against the company were just such as we have heard all over the State of Illinois, differing only in this: in Illinois, the war has been made on a large number of railway companies; in this State, it has been against one single corporation.  Booth and his friends were perhaps more openly aggrarian and communistic than their counterparts in Illinois, but, in their general aims and purposes, they were the same--that is, to determine that the <HI REND="italics">ownership</HI>
097.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">control</HI>
097.sgm: of property are not inseparable, so far as corporations are concerned; but that the <HI REND="italics">State</HI>
097.sgm: may step in, and, backed by popular clamor, assume the management of <HI REND="italics">corporate</HI>
097.sgm:<P>I have looked into this controversy, and have endeavored to determine fairly its merits.  The company is, and always has been, composed of old Californians.  They were all Republicans, and the Central Pacific Railroad Company is to-day a Republican organization.  That it has, through its president and other officers, mixed in the politics and legislation of the State, none will deny.  They could not avoid it.  In building 1,600 or 1,700 miles of railway, and creating, so to speak, a property worth $200,000,000, they could not escape the State Legislature, even had they desired to do so.  It is, no doubt, true that the company has been bled by legislative <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>WHAT CALIFORNIA RAILROADS HAVE DONE.</P>
097.sgm:<P>But, turning away from the plunderings and rascally rogueries of the "corral of wild cattle" that gathers biennially at Sacramento, what have Leland Stanford and his associates done for this State of California?  Let us see: In 1862, the people here had no railroads.  Plundering mail contractors and stage companies held the carrying trade and passenger business of California, and, as between the Pacific Coast and the Middle and Atlantic States, communications were had overland once in about two months, and by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
097.sgm: Panama, in about the same time.  The cost of transit from New York to San Francisco was about $300, and the same by stage-coach overland.  California was, agriculturally, and in all else except the mines, as poor as poverty.  To-day, the cost by sea or overland from New York to San Francisco, excluding board, is $140--time, overland, six days; and, as a result, almost all the trade between China, Japan and the islands of the Pacific Ocean, is now gathering at the docks of San Francisco, and will, in a great measure, pass overland to Chicago and New York, and at reduced rates of freight as well as time.  I saw, myself, as I came over, train-loads of tea, from China and Japan, on the way to Chicago and New York.  For these vast benefits, San Francisco, its merchants and people are indebted to the energetic railroad men of Sacramento.  Again, the Central Pacific Railroad runs now from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The question comes up, what are the crimes of this corporation, about which there is so much noise?  I answer, they are two: First, the men who have poured untold millions of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Nov</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER NO. VII.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Bird's-eye View of California--Its Geography and Topography--Soils , Minerals and Climate, and other Peculiarities--Its Mountains--Its Lake System, Rivers and Remarkable Basins--The Present of California and Its.  Future Possibilities</HI>
097.sgm:<P>IN my letters, written heretofore, I have jotted down, in a very general way, my observations and impressions of whatever came in my way in my rambles about the State of California.  In this letter I desire to give the reader, if I can, a sort of bird's-eye view of the whole State, as it has impressed itself on my mind.</P>
097.sgm:<P>California is, in its geography and topography, its soils, minerals and climate, one of the most remarkable spots on the surface of the earth.  Its natural divisions are, isolated volcanic peaks, vast granitic elevations, precipitous mountains, fertile and delightful valleys, desert wastes, beautiful bays, swift running rivers, waterfalls unequaled on the globe, sequestered sheets of water, high up in the mountains--many of them pure, deep and cool--extensive marshes, wide prairies and dark and imposing forests of great extent.  Its coast line is about 1,100 miles; its length from north to south is 800 miles; its average breadth 200 miles; its area, in square miles, about 155,000, and in acres, 100,000,000.  It lies between 32 1/2 deg. and 42 deg. north latitude--is bounded on the north by the State of Oregon, east by the State of Nevada and the Territory of Arizona, south by Mexico, and west by the Pacific Ocean.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO></PAGEINFO>
097.sgm:<P>THE COAST RANGE MOUNTAINS</P>
097.sgm:<P>Extend from Oregon to Mexico, the whole length of the State, and occupy a belt about 50 miles deep fronting on the ocean.  In some places the mountains approach the waters of the Pacific, in others they recede a few miles back; in some places, through narrow valleys or deep can&tilde;ons the beautiful valleys nestled in these mountains are reached from the ocean.  The Coast mountains occupy about 42,000 square miles, of which 16,000, perhaps, may be classed as valley and <HI REND="italics">mesa</HI>
097.sgm:<P>SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS</P>
097.sgm:<P>Lie on the eastern side of the State, extending from Oregon to the Colorado Valley on the southeast, 700 miles, and form the natural boundary between the State of Nevada, the Territory of Colorado, and California, occupying about 40,000 square miles, very little of which can be called valley land.  In the Sacramento-San Joaquin basin there are 32,000 square miles, the surface of which is slightly above the level of the ocean, and almost perfectly flat.  The American Basin, or that portion of it lying in the State, is equal to 20,000 square miles.  The Colorado, or Mohave, Desert, covers about 15,000 square miles, and the Klamath Basin about 8,000.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The arable or tillable lands of California cover about 50,000 square miles, or 32,000,000 acres, leaving 105,000 square miles, or 68,000,000 acres, mostly useless for any farming or fruit growing purposes.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The Coast Range mountains vary in height from 2,000 to 11,600 feet--Mount San Bernardino, nearly east of Los Angeles, reaching the latter elevation.  In the Sierra and Cascade ranges the mountains reach from 5,000 to 14,900 feet above the level of the ocean.  Mount Whitney is the highest; Mount Shasta is 14,442 feet; Mount Tyndall, 14,386; Mount Dana, 13,227; Mount Lyell, 13,217; and Mount Brewer, 13,886 feet above the level of the ocean.</P>
097.sgm:<P>But, whilst to the eye of the poet or the landscape painter--some wandering Bierstadt--the mountains, rearing their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The great basin of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers lies between the Coast Range and the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  It is one of the most remarkable valleys in the world.  It stretches from near the northern line of the State, at which point it drains the southern slope of the Cascade Mountains, in 411/2 degrees north latitude, to the junction of the Coast Range and Sierra Nevada Mountains, in latitude 34 north.  In its winding course in the heart of the State, it averages from 50 to 75 miles in breadth, and is 450 miles in length.  The Sacramento river has its source in the extreme northern part of the basin or valley, draining the southern slope of the Cascade range, and meanders, for more than 150 miles, south.  The San Joaquin has its source in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, near the Nevada State line, and runs perhaps 100 miles northwest to the centre of the valley, 50 miles from the base of the curve formed by the junction of the Coast Range and Sierra Nevada Mountains, from which point it runs almost directly north until it meets and mingles its waters with those of the Sacramento.  The numerous rivers flowing from the Coast Range and Sierra Nevada Mountains are short, and empty their waters into the two streams named.  The latter, during the rainy season, become rapid, wide and deep rivers, overflowing, perhaps, 2,000,000 acres of "tule" land, so-called on account of the tule grass which grows in these swamps to a great height.  The rivers meet near Stockton, and from thence their combined waters cut throught the Coast Range Mountains at some period in the history of the earth, and formed the bays of Suisun, San Pablo and San Francisco.  From these bays the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Entering the ocean north of this city are the Russian, Eel, Elk, Mad and Smith rivers--all permanent streams, but none of them of any account whatever for navigable purposes</P>
097.sgm:<P>The only lake on the coast, of any importance, is</P>
097.sgm:<P>CLEAR LAKE,</P>
097.sgm:<P>About 80 miles north of San Francisco.  It is about 20 miles long, and varies in width from 2 to 10 miles.  It is walled in by high mountains, and has on its margin beautiful lands, which are in an exceedingly high state of cultivation, and very valuable.  Its outlet is by Cache creek into Sacramento river.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In Amador county, 25 miles east of this city, there is a small lake, covering from 150 to 200 acres, and another, called Soap Lake, of about the same size, in Pajora Valley, about 100 miles south of San Francisco.  Lake Elizabeth, 40 miles northward of Los Angeles, and Alamo Lake, in San Diego county, both dry up and disappear in summer, re-appearing again in winter.  In Kern county is found Lake Tulare, a broad and handsome sheet of water, surrounded by fertile soil.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The only capes on the coast of California are Mendocino, Argueillaand Point Conception.  The first is 250 miles north of San Francisco, and is the most stormy and dangerous cape <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The rivers of the Coast Range, running to the eastward and entering the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, are also short, small, and most of the year dry.  I believe that none of them furnish much water except in very wet winters.  The affluents of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, from the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, are numerous, and furnish an immense volume of water when the snows on the mountains, often 20 ft. deep, melt in the spring.  Many of these rivers run the year round, and are invaluable in the southern part of the State for purposes of irrigation.  Flowing into the Sacramento and San Joaquin, from the western slope of the Nevadas, are Pitt, Feather, Yuba, American, Consumnes, Mokelumne, Calaveras, Stanislaus, Tuolumne, Merced, King's, White and Kern rivers--all considerable streams, and well distributed the whole length of the valley.  They receive the waters from nearly all the melted snow that falls on the Sierra Nevada range, as very little water from that source finds it way down the eastern face of the mountains.  It is one of the mysteries of nature why such immense snow-falls should forever occur in the Nevadas, and so little cross the great San Joaquin Valley, and reach the summits of the Coast Range, not 150 miles distant.  On the latter no heavy snow-falls ever take place.</P>
097.sgm:<P>East of the Sacramento-San Joaquin Valley, in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, are a number of remarkable lakes, chief among which is</P>
097.sgm:<P>HONEY LAKE,</P>
097.sgm:<P>At an elevation of 5000 feet above the ocean level, and surrounded by high mountains.  It is twelve miles long by five wide.  This lake is fed by Susan river, a stream about 60 miles long.  About thirty miles from Honey lake is Eagle lake--a small sheet of water surrounded by a barren and cheerless waste.  Near the Oregon line are found lakes Wright and Rhett; and, lying partly in Oregon and partly in California, are lakes Goose and Klamath.  Goose lake is the largest, being 15 miles long and five wide.  All these lakes are enclosed in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>LAKE TAHOE</P>
097.sgm:<P>Lies 6,000 feet above the ocean, and is surrounded by vast forests and magnificent scenery.  This sheet of water is twenty miles long and ten wide.  It is clear, cold and deep, and has, floating on its bosom, the beautiful little steamer, "Governor Stanfor," which makes trips round it daily.  A portion of this sheet of water lies in the State of Nevada.  It has an outlet eastward into Truckee river.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In the eastern part of Nevada county a dozen small lakes may be found, called the Eureka lakes.  The largest is three miles long by one wide.  In Caleveras county, near the summit of the mountains, the Blue Lakes are found, filled with the purest water from the melted snows in the mountains.</P>
097.sgm:<P>I have referred already to certain</P>
097.sgm:<P>BASINS</P>
097.sgm:<P>Found in California.  They are San Joaquin, the Klamath and Enclosed American.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The Sacramento-San Joaquin Basin, as already stated, is, in the main, a vast level prairie lying in the very heart of the State, 450 miles long by from 50 to 70 broad.  It is only about 30 or 40 feet above the level of the ocean, and contains, of arable land, about 19,000,000 acres, or nearly two-thirds of all the tillable land in the State.  Take this vast valley as a whole, it is the most remarkable body of land on the globe.  Commencing at its northern extremity and extending 200 miles southward, the rainfall is abundant,and on it are grown, in the rankest profusion, all the productions of the earth, the tropical fruits alone excepted.  I know of no cereal, vegetable, fruit or flower grown in any of the Eastern, Northern, Middle, Western, Southwestern or Northwestern States, that does not succeed here in the fullest sense, while many grow to greater perfection and in greater profusion than in any other portion of the United States.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The climate is all that one could desire, except, perhaps, it may be too warm during a portion of the summer.  The</P>
097.sgm:<P>ENCLOSED AMERICAN BASIN,</P>
097.sgm:<P>A vast elevation of barren, cheerless, unwatered waste land, lying from 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the ocean, sweeps from the mountains walling in the basin of the Columbia river to Mexico, and occupies 15,000 square miles of Southeastern California, below the Sierra Nevada and Coast Range mountains.  It has no outlet for its waters.  The California portion of this basin is as dry and sterile as the Desert of Sahara, only its surface is broken by rocks, chasms, volcanic scori&aelig; and valleys <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>THE MOHAVE AND OWEN.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The Mohave rises in the northern portion of the San Bernardino mountain, the highest point of the Coast Range, and after running eastwardly without a tributary, about 100 miles, it is lost in the sand.  Owen river runs southwardly 75 miles along the base of the Sierra Nevada mountains, and is lost in</P>
097.sgm:<P>OWEN LAKE,</P>
097.sgm:<P>A body of alkaline water 15 miles long and 9 wide, which disappears in long, hot summers.  North of Owen Lake is</P>
097.sgm:<P>LAKE MONO,</P>
097.sgm:<P>8 miles long and 6 wide.  It is called the "Dead Sea of California."  It has in its bosom no fish; on its heavy, turgid, poisonous waters the human body will float, and its alkaline qualities are so strong as to blister the human skin.  As I have stated, this desert waste is at a great elevation above the surface of the ocean, and yet there is a portion of it which lies far below.  It is the</P>
097.sgm:<P>SINK OF AMARGOSA RIVER,</P>
097.sgm:<P>Or, as it is sometimes called, the "Valley of Death."  It descends 370 feet below the level of the sea, and is as dry and desolate as the wildest fancy can depict.  It is utterly destitute of trees, grass or any other living thing.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Such is my brief geographical and topographical sketch of this El Dorado.  Comprehensively, it might be called a State walled in on all sides by vast mountains, some of which attain a greater elevation than any others in this country; a State which excels Italy for its bright sun and clear blue skies, and Switzerland for grand mountain scenery.  My old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Who can cast the horoscope of California?  Who can penetrate the future and sum up its greatness, fifty years hence?  Twenty-five years ago the silence of the morning of eternity brooded over most of it.  A spot here and there had been visited by the vagrant Indians who occupied its southern borders, and who now and then penetrated the distant north.  Three-quarters of a century before, a handful of Spanish priests had planted a few missions on its extreme western margin within hearing of the measured roll of the ocean--and that was all.  To-day it has its commercial emporium teeming with a population of 200,000, and scattered over its vast extent 500,000 more industrious, hardy American citizens.  In the shadows of its great mountains, in its valleys and along its rivers, the shrill whistle of the locomotive awakens the echoes of its Alpine peaks, and tells of its coming commerce, and the populations that are here to work out, on a scale of imperial grandeur, the problems of humanity under circumstances more favorable than any hitherto known to the Anglo-Saxon race.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Nov</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. VIII.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Spanish Catholic Missions on the Shores of the Pacific--California According to the Geographers of the Sixteenth Century--Establishment of the Mission at San Diego, July 16, 1769--Foundation of the Mission Dolores at San Francisco--Secularization of the California Missions by the Mexican Government--The Facts Concerning the Temecula Indians</HI>
097.sgm:<P>A GOOD history of the Spanish Catholic Missions on the shores of the Pacific Ocean, has never been written.  The journals of the servants of the church are in the jargon of the ascetic enthusiasts who first set foot on the soil of Spanish California, and are in harmony with the age of Philip II.  They are mainly filled with the extravagant rhapsodies of those who, in imitation of the disciples of Loyola in India and South America, inscribed on their missals, "All for the greater glory of God," and the resulting motto, "The end justifies the means."  Little is to be found in the history of Spain or Mexico which reflects any certain light on the lives and works of the founders of these ancient houses of the Papal Hierarchy along the bases of the Coast Range mountains, or, in a few places, in the interior of California, planted and sustained so long among the Indian tribes whose history rests back in the shadows of the unknown.</P>
097.sgm:<P>After the domination over the Moors under Ferdinand and Isabella, and the discovery of America by Columbus, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The possessions of Philip were incomparably greater than those of any other sovereign of his time, and his revenues from the four quarters of the world were almost beyond computation.  The missionaries of the Society of Jesus, while they swarmed in every nation in Europe, impelled by their zeal, following the bloody footsteps of Cortez in Mexico and Pizzaro in South America, planted the Cross among every tribe of Indians, Aztecs and the Children of the Sun, from Southern California to Patagonia.  And yet, amid the tens of thousands of the followers of Loyola, not one, in the 230 years which elapsed from the formation of the order to the establishment of the first mission at San Diego, in 1769, by the Order of St. Francis, had ever, so far as known, set his foot on the soil of California.  They had penetrated China, Japan, North America, South America, Mexico, the isles of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, Asia and Africa, and every portion of Europe, but not one of the great company seems to have ever seen the vast mountains and valleys of the Golden State.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The geography of the Pacific coast was but little known by those who succeeded Cortez as settlers or adventurers in Mexico.  There is, in one of the libraries of San Francisco, a copy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:of a map of the world, published in Venice in the sixteenth century, on which Asia is united with North America; the Colorado river is made to have its source in Thibet, and empty into the Gulf of California, 15,000 miles from the mountains of Asia.  English maps, as late as 1750, made California an island, and Spanish geographies made it include the whole continent west of Canada and north of Mexico.  It was in this <HI REND="italics">terra incognita</HI>
097.sgm: that the Franciscan monks in Mexico determined to plant the Cross, and establish, in the name of their Spanish sovereign, the religion of Catholicism.  The Order of San Franciscus, in the City of the Montezumas, chose Father Junipero Serra president of the missions about to be established.  This friar, true to the zeal of his order, had abandoned the chair of philosophy in the University of Majorca, his native town, to devote himself to the labors of a missionary in the New World.  He had already made himself noted for his restless and arduous labors among the natives in Mexico.  The annals of his order describe him as "a love-inspired enthusiast, whose eye kindled with delight at the sight of a band of savages, and whose heart thrilled with transport at the baptism of an Indian babe."  The number which accompanied him was 16, all from the Convent of San Fernando.  Before his departure, three vessels were fitted out at Cape St. Lucas, and dispatched for San Diego, laden with materials and supplies.  Of these, history says the <HI REND="italics">San Jose</HI>
097.sgm: was lost with all on board, while the <HI REND="italics">San Carlos</HI>
097.sgm: lost all her crew but the cook and one sailor.  The third vessel, the <HI REND="italics">San Antonia</HI>
097.sgm:<P>The Mission of San Diego was founded July 16, 1769--106 years ago, or 7 years before the Declaration of Independence.  On the 25th day of October, 1776, a portion of Father Junipero's party, composed of priests and soldiers, reached the Bay of San Francisco, and founded the Mission Dolores, yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The missions established in California numbered, I think, 21, the last being founded in Sonoma county, in 1823.  They were generally located on the best harbors and places of safety for shipping on the coast, or on the best lands of the interior, near the places of most resort by the Indians.  The native population were a nomadic, pastoral race, rarely cultivating the earth, but living almost wholly on the milk and flesh furnished by their herds.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The soldiers who accompanied the priests, and the military governors, appointed by the authorities of Spain, controlling affairs in Mexico, were fit representatives of the Spanish soldiers who had butchered the defenseless inhabitants of the Netherlands, under Alexander Farnese, and who had fought under the famous Duke of Parma.  They had all the fierce and brutal lusts and instincts of the age of Philip II, sharpened and intensified for the work of death and pillage by the ease with which they could overcome and slay the simple, unoffending Indians.</P>
097.sgm:<P>A mission having been located, the natives were attracted, as far as possible, by gaudy and dazzling presents, and persuaded to locate near the new made settlement.  They were instructed in the Catholic faith as rapidly as possible, and as soon as they could repeat the simplest prayers of the church, or pronounce a few of the names of the saints, they were baptized, and enrolled as members of the church.  Admiral Beechy, of the English navy, says: "The Indians were drawn up in line, made to kneel, and then to repeat after their leader the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:names of the Trinity, in Spanish: ` <HI REND="italics">Santissima Trinidad, Dios, Jesu Christo, Espirito Santo</HI>
097.sgm:.'  Then a list of <HI REND="italics">Santos</HI>
097.sgm: (saints), and the neophytes were dismissed to their work.  Both men and women were required to labor in the service of the mission, receiving rations of <HI REND="italics">atole</HI>
097.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">pozoli</HI>
097.sgm: --varities of pottage--if faithful, and <HI REND="italics">lashes</HI>
097.sgm: when disobedient.  They cultivated the mission fields, herded the mission cattle, and reared the mission houses."  A few seem to have been taught the simplest arts, such as to weave cloth, tan leather, and weld iron.  None were taught to read, except a few musicians.  There were no schools, no translations of the Bible or any other book, nor was any grammar ever constructed of the Indian language.  The lives of the neophytes, after they were enrolled as Christian converts, was little less than negro slavery.  The zeal of the Fathers seems to have only been to baptize converts, and then domesticate them and doom them to perpetual toil.  When the Indians shunned the missions, the brutal soldiers, many of them transported from old Spain for crime, were employed by the pious Fathers to reduce them to servitude, and to make raids on remote tribes, and with the musket, the sword and stiletto drive the poor, defenseless savages by the hundreds, like so many cattle, into the folds of the church and the road to heaven, filling up the latter with perpetual toil for the benefit of these lordly spiritual guides.  Men and women were whipped, and punished by confinement in the stocks, if they refused to believe or to labor.  Of course, the rubric, the missal, the musket, the stiletto, the dagger, the whip and stocks were successful, so that in 1823 there were 20,826 Indians under priestly domination, while the total number of baptisms up to that time had been 76,069.  Or, in other words, according to the teachings of these Franciscan Fathers, from 1769 to 1823, a period of 54 years, they had reclaimed from barbarism, and worked, whipped and (through the sanctifying influence of the stocks, hunger and slavery,) purified and sent home to the kingdom of heaven, no less than 55,243 Indians, or at the rate of over 1,000 per annum.  A good work, truly, and--on the principle of the Irishman who converted the Jew to the Christian faith by ducking him in the water, and then drowned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:him lest he might backslide--a most meritorious success in the eye of heaven; but, from an earthly standpoint, the ordinary statistics of mortality (50 deaths for every 1,000 Indians each year) would indicate that the conversion of the Indians to the Catholic faith was a rather unhealthy business in the days of these old missions.  An ancient seer and prophet, speaking of Israel, said, "Jeshuren waxed fat and kicked"--and so did these old <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
097.sgm:<P>To hold the Indians in awful reverence, the ceremonies of the church were regularly maintained; but the main business of the priests, finally, was the counting of their gains and caring for their untold wealth.  At one time their sheep and cattle numbered over 2,000,000, and of silver they had over $500,000 in their treasury.  But, as the boundless lust for power and wealth secured the ruin of the Jesuits, so riches and power secured the overthrow and final destruction of these regal houses of the Church in California.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In 1822, Spanish rule was overthrown in Mexico, and, upon the establishment of Mexican authority, its rulers began at once to look into the condition of the California missions.  The government being poor, it began to levy on the estates of the church, both at home and in its northern dependency.  In 1835, a decree of secularization was issued from the government, and the hoarded treasures of the church were seized, and the mission cattle, horses and sheep were divided among the neophyte Indians, and the lands among the soldiers, many of whom had married Indian women, so that, in 1843, only a few thousands of the Indians remained about the missions.  In 1845, many of these religious establishments were sold or closed, and their glory departed forever.</P>
097.sgm:<P>For nearly three-quarters of a century the Catholic missions had exercised all the powers of church and State, without challenge or restraint.  The priests admitted no white settlers.  Now and then a Boston skipper dropped his anchor in the harbors and bays of the coast, and traded calicoes, sugar and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Since the conquest of this State by the arms of the United States, 29 years ago, the change has been almost beyond comprehension.  To that date, Indian rule and Spanish misrule had covered the history of the human race upon the soil of California.  The infusion of the Latin religion and Spanish civilization among the Indians had wrought out nothing good for either.  The Indians were degraded.  Their intermarriages with the Spaniards had simply produced the Mexican Greaser, a worse type of humanity than either--a type which, in 29 years, has not improved in any degree under the Government of the United States, in New Mexico or California.  Indeed, the history of two centuries, in Mexico and South America, has proven that the mingling of the blood of the Latin race, and its religion, with that of any race on the Pacific Coast, has produced no people, anywhere, capable of maintaining a settled, stable form of self-government; nor is there any well-grounded reason to suppose that such agencies will ever produce other than the people whose normal condition is misrule, revolution and anarchy.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Much has been said of late about the Temecula, or Mission Indians, in Southern California, being ejected from their homes by people who had secured patents to the lands on which they lived.  The facts are, the Indians never owned any lands; they had never acquired Mexican citizenship; they were mere "hewers of wood and drawers of water" to the priests until 1845; and, in 1846, the State of California was conquered by the arms of the United States.  Under the treaty of Gaudalupe Hidalgo, the rights of the citizens of Mexico residing in California, alone, were provided for.  The Indians had no rights which white men or Mexicans respected.  They were as completely unprovided for as a tribe of wandering Gipsies in Illinois.  In point of fact, they do not want land.  Put them on a reservation, and they will all starve.  They are a docile, harmless, drunken lot of creatures, doing a little work for the farmers of Southern California, but chiefly useful as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>I have looked into the claims of these Mission Indians.  They are poor creatures, who ought, in some way, to be provided for; but such rascals and vagabonds as Olegario are their worst enemies and direst curses.  The President ought to send the fellow home, and then find some honest man to look into these remnants of the Ancient Catholic Mission Indians of California, and report what ought to be done for them.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Nov</HI>
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097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. IX.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Climatic Characteristics of California--The Dry and the Rainy Seasons--Vegetables now in their Prime--The Patient, Prudent, Pig-Eyed Children of the Flowery Kingdom--The Temperature at San Francisco and at Other Points in the State--Character of Prevailing Diseases--The Fuel Question--Winter in the Mountains--The Miners--Mortality Statistics--Absence of Longevity--Fat Women</HI>
097.sgm:<P>MUCH, in the way both of praise and disparagement, has been written of the climate of California.  Some have described it as a land of perpetual sunshine, over which sweep forever whispering zephyrs, loaded with the fragrance of perennial flowers.  Others have condemned it as a land of winds, mud, dust, and heat.  Of course, both are wrong.  No place, under the laws of nature as organized at present, can be perfect as to climate or anything else.  All are permeated with and dominated by influences and agencies which subject man to the ills of life, and at last to the primal curse, which has from the beginning, till now, filled, and will continue to the end to fill up the charnal houses and necropoli of the world so long as the human race exists.  The climate of this State has not been, and will not be, an exception.  People here are born, live, suffer from the "thousand natural shocks that flesh is heir to," and die just as elsewhere.  There is not on this earth a place where humanity is not doomed to toil, to hunger, to pain, to disease, and to death.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>I came here on the 14th of September.  I have been nearly from one end of the State to the other, extending through ten or more parallels of latitude, and have crossed it from side to side.  I have seen it parched, ashen and without verdure.  I looked with wearied eyes on its rivers, either totally dry or shrunken into little, heated, tired-looking threads of water.  I have looked out and up to the summits of its wonderful and barren mountains, with their broken, craggy, barren peaks.  I have seen its bright skies by day, and its clear, blue heavens in the night time; and then I have seen dense, cold, penetrating fogs fill the valleys and cover the mountains as with the pall of night.  I have seen days so calm, so serene, so ineffably charming as to make one feel as if men could not die on such days; and I have seen, for days together, the rain descend in torrents, and the earth deluged with mud and water, and the rills, rivulets and rivers, which a few weeks before were as dry as dust, pour out torrents and roll with resistless fury to the ocean.  Days there have been when the murky heavens, the creeping clouds, the chill winds and the soaked earth made everything wear a most dreary aspect, and caused all to feel that this is, after all, anything but the Garden of Eden, or the Land of Promise.</P>
097.sgm:<P>But, then, my readers must not forget that, here, the words spring, summer, autumn and winter, have no application.  There are only two seasons--the wet and the dry.  The dry season begins about the first of May and ends about the first of November--six months.  It sometimes begins as early as the first of April.  During these months, there is no rain at all.  Umbrellas may be locked up as useless, and "stove-pipe" hats may be worn with absolute safety.  During all these months, there are, beyond the reach of ocean fogs, cloudless skies, blue heavens and starry nights.  From November to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>Up to the first day of this month, except where irrigation was employed, the surface of the earth, all over California, was as parched and dry, and as free from vegetation, as the Nicholson pavement around the public square in Springfield was any day last summer.  The first shower was on the first day of the month.  Since then there have been only a very few dry days.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The ashen-looking hills around San Francisco, about which I wrote in my second letter, are looking like mountains of emerald.  The flowers are out in all their beauty, and the vegetable gardens are in the height of their perfection.  As I write, I look out of my window and see long lines of Chinamen, on their odd trot, bearing on their bowed shoulders, across the bases of their necks, poles, on the end of which are suspended large baskets of every variety; and from now until next June, the gardens will continue in all their fruitfulness, and the patient, prudent, pig-eyed children of the Flowery Kingdom will reap their harvest.  The dusky children of Japhet, who till the soil all along the Nile and its wonderful Delta, are no more dependent on that stream for its annual inundation of their lands for a crop, than are the people of California on these months of rain for all that supports life grown from the earth.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The day of rejoicing is when the rains begin to descend, and the vegetable and floral worlds begin to array themselves in beauty, and give renewed assurance that "seed-time and harvest shall not cease."  The planting season is now beginning; much of the wheat is already sown, and much will yet be put in between now and the first of February.  The certainty of a full crop next May and June, depends on the quantity of rain which falls between now and April.  Twenty inches will produce a fair crop; thirty inches, a heavy one.  So, the farmers are happy when the rains come in torrents, and, for them, the more the better.</P>
097.sgm:<P>As we use the word in Illinois, it is never cold in California, except in the mountains.  The mercury rarely descends to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>On account of the high prices of fuel, fires are not generally used.  Thousands of people who live in the hotels and lodging-houses of the cities and towns never have fires at all.  If fuel was as cheap as in the Valley of the Mississippi, and used as freely, the ills of life here would be greatly diminished.  The long rains fill the houses, and especially the sleeping apartments, with moisture and unhealthy air.  The beds and bedclothing become damp; the person becomes more or less chilled, so that fire would be a great comfort, as well as a source of health.  While I write to-night, I have no fire in my room; the air is chill and damp; my feet and hands are cold, and I have on my light overcoat.  For some weeks past, I have felt the twinges of rheumatism; and so it must be with all who dispense with fires in their rooms.</P>
097.sgm:<P>When I first came here, I saw many advertisements in the columns of the newspapers of "sunny rooms" to let.  The weather was then hot and dry.  It struck me as somewhat singular.  I then remarked that all residences and lodging-houses had bay-windows to the east, south and west.  I found few houses surrounded by shade trees, even in the Santa Clara Valley, settled more than fifty years ago.  On inquiry, I found, in the morning and evening of every day in summer, or the dry season, the sun is regarded as indispensable to health and comfort.  Ladies, in the mornings and evenings of summer days, are seen everywhere, wrapped in shawls and furs, sitting in the bay-windows, behind the glass, in the sun.  In this city, especially, furs, shawls and wraps, are essential for the health of women and children.  Fires are used by those who can afford them.  I have not yet seen a night when a heavy pair of blankets were not needed for comfort and sound sleep.</P>
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097.sgm:<P>More heavy furs are worn in San Francisco, by ladies, than in St. Louis or Chicago, taking the year round.  In summer, of afternoons, all who can afford them wear furs.  All fine carriages, at all seasons, day and night, are provided with robes, many of them of great value.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In this city I think the average temperature may be stated as follows: Wet season, from November 1 to the 1st of May--sunrise, 44 deg., midday, 56 deg.  Dry season--sunrise, 50 to 55 deg., midday, 70 to 80 deg.  In some of the valleys in the interior of the State, in the dry season, the mercury stands, at sunrise, 56 to 65 deg., and at midday from 90 to 100 deg.  In the southern portion of the State the mercury has risen often to 110 deg.  But owing to the dryness of the air and the rapidity of the evaporation of the moisture of the skin, heat is not so much felt here as where there is more humidity in the atmosphere.  Besides, there are no hot nights in California.  Woolens are needed for clothing in the evening at all seasons of the year.</P>
097.sgm:<P>As I have said in the beginning of this letter, people die here just as they do anywhere else.  They have all the diseases here that they do elsewhere.  On the coast and in the mountains are to be found rheumatism, neuralgia, affections of the bowels, kidneys and heart.  In the valleys malarial diseases are found to prevail, and, in some seasons, in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Valley, with great severity.  In this city and vicinity people are not free, by any means, from diseases of the respiratory organs.  In San Francisco, in 1871, there were, in a population of 150,000, 3,214 deaths--21 to each 1,000.  Of these, 518 died of consumption--about 16 per cent. of the whole number.  It may be true that many of those who died came here sick.  Of this, however, there is room for doubt, as people with weak lungs, coming to California for health avoid this city as a place where they can not reside with any degree of safety.  But after all is said</P>
097.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA MUST BE A HEALTHY STATE.</P>
097.sgm:<P>People do not suffer so much, either, from climatic changes as in the States east of the Rocky Mountains.  They are not so much exposed to the extremes of heat and cold.  The dry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>The preparation of fuel is not regarded as of much moment in California.  The quantity used being small, wood and coal houses are not filled in October and November.  The making of fires in the morning, the warming of rooms, the anxiety about the house plants, the water pipes and the vegetables in the cellar, are unknown here.  The Chinaman makes a little fire to dry the room, the plants are set out of doors, the water pipes are left in the open air, the vegetables are put in the store room, and of cellars--there are none.  Most of the fuel used in San Francisco are the coals from Australia, England, Scotland and British Columbia.  Soft coal is worth about $15 per ton.  It is no better than that furnished in Springfield at $2.  Wood--and that not of the best quality--is worth about $9 per cord, but so little is used that its cost is but a small item in the expenses of a family.</P>
097.sgm:<P>IN THE MOUNTAINS</P>
097.sgm:<P>The weather in California, during the winter months, becomes very cold, and the snow-falls are very great.  The can&tilde;ons, ravines and depressions are filled to the depth of many feet, and human life is often imperiled.  The miners in the Sierra Nevada are already beginning to come to this city and arrange for the winter.  Their coming is always a matter of rejoicing to owners of lodging-houses, boarding-house keepers and hotel people, but especially so to the stock gamblers who swarm in California street.  The miners, as a class, are much like the trappers of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>From what I have been able to gather in the way of mortality statistics, I am not inclined to the belief that people will attain to great ages in California.  I have seen but few old men, and still fewer old ladies.  Mayor James Otis died here the other day.  The papers spoke of him as being one of the oldest citizens.  On inquiry, I found he was forty-nine.  Exmayor Thomas J. Selby died a few months ago.  He was another old citizen, a little beyond fifty.  I think that most of the people die here between fifty and sixty.  I do not assert this as a fact--it is only stated as an impression.  Ladies become fat before they are forty, and many of them are very stout.  I have seen more fleshy ladies in California, in proportion to numbers, than I ever saw anywhere else.  But I am told that this tendency to obesity is no evidence of robust health, but rather the reverse.  There is a good deal of talk about paralysis and heart disease among ladies.  Men appear robust, but I think the mildness of the climate goes far to sustain them, and that when the break comes, the vital functions are so far exhausted that they are a good deal like Deacon Jones' "One-Horse Shay," without, like it, having lasted a hundred years and a day.</P>
097.sgm:<P>And now, like all things else, this letter must end.  I look at my watch.  It is 12 o'clock midnight.  The last minute of the last day of another week--gone forever.  The city is sleeping around me.  I am a stranger here still.  Far, far away, I have a home and loved ones.  When shall I see it and them?  I listen.  The measured roll of the ocean is heard.  Its weltering, heaving tides know neither rest nor slumber.  But this tired hand must rest and these weary eyes slumber.  Good night.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., Nov. 27, 1875.</P>
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097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. X.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">An Overland Trip to Southern California--Tehachipi Pass--A Marvel of Railroad Engineering--A Mixed Stage Load--A Tehachipi Dinner--The Southern California Mountains--The Mohave Desert and its Discomforts--California Brigands--Arrival at Los Angeles</HI>
097.sgm:<P>APOLOGIES are scarcely permissible in a newspaper correspondent, yet I beg to make one to the readers of the JOURNAL--or such of them as may have read, with some degree of interest, my letters--for my silence for some weeks past.  My failure to send weekly letters has been wholly unavoidable, as business, the cares and anxiety about my invalid son, constant travel, and want of time, have made writing at any length impossible.</P>
097.sgm:<P>On the first day of December I left this city for Southern California.  I had intended to go by the ocean route, but, the weather being extremely foggy, and at sea very uncomfortable, and the dangers of a voyage down the coast on a heavy sea in the old steamers which form the steamship lines being very considerable, I determined to take my chances inland, and undergo the discomforts of staging and the risks of being robbed by the marauding wretches who, of late, swarm all over the southern portions of this State.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The trip from San Francisco to Caliente, a distance of more than 300 miles, was made over the Central and Southern Pacific railroads.  These lines lie over the great plains in the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, and at present terminate at Caliente, a little town at the junction of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:Coast Range and Sierra Nevada Mountains, at the base of what is known as the Tehachipi Pass.  The name of the town signifies hot.  It was formerly called <HI REND="italics">Aqua Caliente</HI>
097.sgm:<P>TEHACHIPI PASS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The mountains dividing the San Joaquin Valley from the Mohave Desert are about thirty-five miles across.  The elevation of the pass is, perhaps, 4,000 feet above the level of the sea, and is reached through the wildest and most picturesque scenery in California.  The railroad is located through these mountains so as to secure sufficient length of line to overcome the elevation of the pass.  The road winds up the sides of the great headlands, passing around and through them for ten or eleven miles, and at the end of that distance is but a mile and a half or two miles from Caliente.  But in its course there are no less than sixteen tunnels--in point of fact, the greater portion of the whole distance is made up of these tunnels.  At one point, in securing length of line to overcome the grade, the roadway passes entirely around the mountain, and crosses the line of its own track at an elevation of perhaps 125 feet <HI REND="italics">above</HI>
097.sgm: the track of a tunnel <HI REND="italics">below</HI>
097.sgm:.  Taken altogether, this is one of the most remarkable feats of engineering in the country, and reflects great credit on Col. Grey, the chief engineer of the company.  There are now employed on the cuts, fills and tunnels of this great undertaking, about 5,000 Chinamen, whose tents cover the mountain sides in all directions, looking very much like the encampment of an army.  They work both day and night, and when their blasts are touched off in the rocky cuts in and along the mountain sides, their rolling and reverberating thunders remind one of the battles fought by Sherman during his campaign from Chattanooga to Atlanta.  This Southern Pacific railroad is but another name for the Great Central, as it is owned and managed by the latter.  The line from Caliente is to connect, by July next, with Los <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>Some 25 miles above Los Angeles is another great tunnel through the summit of the San Fernando mountain.  Its length is 7,700 feet.  On and in it about 1,500 Chinamen are engaged.  They alone are worked on these stupendous undertakings.  The company pays them $1 per day, gold, and they board themselves.  Competent judges say that they are more valuable here as railroad hands than any other class.  They are sober, industrious and faithful, and, above all, are peaceable, kindly disposed, and make no rows.</P>
097.sgm:<P>On my way down, I took stage at Caliente for San Fernando, 100 miles distant.  It was a regular old-fashioned Concord vehicle, intended to carry nine persons inside and four on top.  On this trip we started with eleven inside, one on the seat with the driver, and a small John Chinaman on top.  Inside were, a battered stove-pipe-hatted man from Oregon, his wife, a boy about fifteen years old, who could not sit still, and a small child.  These occupied the back seat.  On the front seat sat an ancient Spanish lady, enormously fat, so much so that she was too rigid to adjust herself to the seat, and so kept slipping off all the time.  Next to her sat a Mexican, and next to him a melancholy, cadaverous, hungry-looking Swede, whose length of limb was simply fearful in a stage coach.  On the center seat sat, on one side of the coach, Col. A. B. Clark, from Georgia, connected with the Treasury Department at Washington; next to him some woman going to Los Angeles, looking up her husband; in her arms she had a child about three years old that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:wanted water all the time; and next and last, in front of the long-legged chap, sat the writer.  Immediately behind me sat the Oregonian.  His curiosity was very great, and his desire to enjoy the magnificent scenery irrepressible.  His knees were in a state of constant motion, and being a rather tall specimen of man, they were by no means pleasant things to my back.  His head was also in and out of the stage window like perpetual motion, and his remarks frequent and his admiration of everything unbounded.  My long-legged Swede would open and shut himself like a long-bladed jack-knife, and for twenty miles he seemed to have resolved himself into a state of continued doubt as to whether he would shut up or open out full length, and he thus managed to keep himself in a state of continual motion.  Mr. Clark, on his side had the boy of the Oregonian bobbing up and down, leaning over and on him, wriggling and squirming until patience ceased, and Clark informed the rising hoodlum that he had engaged a seat in the stage, and that he must keep it, and not attempt to ride too much on his back.  By the time Clark had squelched the boy, the ancient Spanish lady had gone fast to sleep, and was gradually sliding out of her seat and depositing most of her weight on him.  He finally became desperate, and, at the end of our second run, got out and relieved himself by pouring all the warmth of Caliente on both boy and the aged, fat and sleepy old duenna.  In the meantime, I discovered that the small Chinaman had reached the end of his journey, and was <HI REND="italics">nonest</HI>
097.sgm:<P>The ride over these Techachipi Pass Mountains is one of singular and imposing grandeur.  Let my readers imagine themselves placed on the top of an immense stage, drawn by six heavy and fiery horses, on a broad, smooth road, cut out of the mountain sides for many miles; climbing up, up, up, until the valley below lies one, two or three thousand feet deep, and, in some places, the sides so steep that a goat could hardly climb them--and they can then form some conception of that ride.  A mile off, across the immense can&tilde;on, the Chinamen could be seen pouring in and out of the railroad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>A ride of about seven miles, during which Clark had relieved himself of nameless and most potential curses on the dinner he did not eat, except the bayos, brought us to the</P>
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097.sgm:<P>SUMMIT OF THE PASS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The scene can never be forgotten.  To the north and west, in all their solemn and awful grandeur, lay, walled up towards the heavens, the Sierra Nevada and Coast Range Mountains, while below these vast monuments of the wonders of creative power, nestled a thousand peaks, each one in itself a high mountain; and over all, the sun gleamed in beauty.  The lights and shadows of that matchless spectacle will dwell in the halls of memory throughout life, and perhaps eternity.  Looking to the east and south, the eye swept the vast Mohave Desert, with its dismal, oppressive and perpetual sterility.  Far off to the east were seen, lying in their remote and grand repose, the Mountains of Colorado, beyond the Colorado river, perhaps 150 miles distant.  To the southeast, and far beyond Fort Yuma, piercing their hazy peaks towards the clouds, lay the Mexican range.  To the south, and directly in front of us, lay the San Bernardino range, dominated by</P>
097.sgm:<P>MOUNT SAN BERNARDINO,</P>
097.sgm:<P>Which is 11,600 feet high, covered on its grand, broad summit with perpetual ice and snow.  This range lies south, 75 miles from the pass, across the arm of the desert which pushes itself westward towards the ocean.  To the southwest--and over which our road lay to Los Angeles--the San Francisco and San Fernando Mountains are interposed.  Scattered about in the desert were seen huge hills, apparently pushed up through the bottom of the arid plain, but as bare of all verdure as the desert waste itself.  This Mohave Desert, and that portion of the Enclosed American Basin which lies in southeastern California, is one of the most dismal portions of the earth.</P>
097.sgm:<P>To the far south, near Fort Yuma, in the southern portion of the desert, are found mud volcanoes, spouting hot, dark, pitchy mud.  Farther north is found the Dead Sea of California, or the receptacle of the waters of the Owen river.  The waters of this lake, for it is Owen Lake, are so alkaline as to almost make soap when mixed with grease.  Still to the north lies the Sink of Amargosa river, called the Valley of Death.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>As we descended from the mountain and reached the foothills, the wind began to be felt in constantly increasing force from the northwest.  All around us bore evidence of the fury of these storms.  The southern slopes of the mountains are smooth, hard sand, and the foot-hills are denuded of all vegetation, except the dagger cactus and bunches of grease wood.  White pebbles glisten in the sun in countless numbers, some as large as a hen's egg.  The winds do not always blow, and they are variable in their violence.  They sometimes are so strong as to stop the stages, fill the whole air with sand and pebbles, and even endanger human life.  On the day we crossed the arm of this desert, the stage driver said the winds were not severe.  The morning had been perfectly delightful.  The curtains of the stage were all up and the windows all down; but when we struck these chilly blasts, the curtains were let down and the windows were put up.  Shawls, overcoats and blankets were brought into use. Clark and myself held to our seat outside.  The wind blew so strong that we had to hold on to our hats with our hands, and even tie them on with handkerchiefs.  At times it would seem as if we would not be able to maintain our position.  About half-way across this God-forsaken place is "Willow Spring," where there is a stage stand and a supper place.  The sun had not gone down.  Chilled, covered up with sand, and out of humor, we descended and took our suppers.  It was a human meal as compared with our dinner.  We paid 75 cents, mounted to our seats, and drove out into the desert.</P>
097.sgm:<P>WILLOW SPRING</P>
097.sgm:<P>Issues from a small elevation in the desert, and sends off a stream of water which would fill a two and possibly a three inch pipe.  There is a pretty pond near the stage house, and from it the water runs out some miles into the desert before it finally disappears.  There are a few stunted willows at the head of the spring, but nothing else.  Not a weed, not a blade of grass or any green thing do the waters of this oasis produce <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>On this dreary portion of the earth nothing grows except the dagger cactus and grease wood.  The first of these productions is worthy of notice.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE DAGGER CACTUS</P>
097.sgm:<P>Has leaves shaped almost precisely like a bayonet.  The points are tipped with a black, hard substance, and as sharp as a needle.  Some of them are three feet long, and are stiff enough to run through a man or kill a horse.  These cacti grow into trees.  I saw on the desert hundreds of them from 20 to 30 feet high, with well defined trunks 10 and 15 feet to the first limb, and many of them from 12 to 15 inches in diameter.  They are of no known use.  They produce no fruit, but stand out in this region of utter desolation in harmony with all else.</P>
097.sgm:<P>We reached the base of the San Francisco Mountains about 9 o'clockat night.  In these mountains is found Lake Elizabeth, whose gleaming waters we saw by star-light.  It is about two miles long and one broad.  From this point, shut in by frowning mountains, threading our way through dark can&tilde;ons, we rumbled along.  The desert winds had not followed us, but we were most uncomfortably chilled.  We talked of robbers.  The stage on which we rode had been robbed of Wells, Fargo &amp; Co.'s box the night before, and almost in sight of Caliente.  But no brigand made his appearance, and at 4 o'clock in the morning, 5 hours behind advertised time and 21 hours after entering the stage, we reached the little village of San Fernando, at the foot of the mountain of that name, 20 miles from Los Angeles, where we took the cars, and at 5:30 o'clock reached the "City of the Angels," and, tired, cold and sleepy, went to bed.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Dec</HI>
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097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No XI.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Sea Voyage to San Diego--Getting on Board at San Pedro in a Rough Sea--Gen.  Vandevere, of Iowa--The Temecula Indian Claim--An Indian Ring in Southern California--Delights of the San Diego Climate</HI>
097.sgm:<P>MY last letter left off at Los Angeles, which is, as stated in a former letter, 368 miles from San Francisco by sea, and 420 by rail and stage.</P>
097.sgm:<P>I spent a single day in the city of "The Angels," parted company with my friend Clark, and left for San Diego to see my invalid son.  The reader will remember that Los Angeles is 22 miles from sea, up the river, and Wilmington is the port town, while the harbor is San Pedro, 5 or 6 miles still further down, outside the bar, where all heavy vessels lie at anchor.  Wilmington is reached by a branch of the Southern Pacific railroad, and the vessels in the harbor or roadstead, by the little steamer <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
097.sgm:.  We ran alongside the steamship <HI REND="italics">Orizaba</HI>
097.sgm: at 2 o'clock P.M.  The sea was indulging in an exceedingly heavy "swell," and the steamer lying at anchor was rolling like a log.  Had it not been dangerous, one could not have helped laughing to see the passengers from the little <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
097.sgm: getting up the ship's sides over the gangways.  The planks were pushed out to a lighter-boat, and lashed fast to the ship.  On this boat the passengers were landed.  When the ship was trimmed, the gang planks were easily walked, but when it rolled from the lighter, the planks were at an angle of about 90 degrees, and required the strength of about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>During the afternoon I spent the time with Gen. William Vandevere, of Dubuque, Iowa, who was for many years the personal and political friend of the lamented Douglas, and his champion in the Hawkeye State.  Gen. Vandevere distinguished himself in his patriotic devotion to the country and by his gallantry during the war.  After its close he was a member of Congress from Iowa, for some years.  At present he is United States Inspector of Indian Agencies, and is on this coast, under orders to inquire into the wants, and provide, as far as he can, homes for the Mission Indians in California.  In this he has a most responsible and delicate work to perform.  This State, like all the others of the Union, is not free from human selfishness, greed and readiness, through its rings and sharpers, to levy on the Treasury of the United States, and share in the spoils of official knavery and corrupt political life.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The reader will remember that last summer, or early in autumn, there was some little excitement produced by certain parties who, under the forms of law, secured the ejectment of a number of Indian families from a ranch in San Diego county, on which they had lived for many years.  The total number of Indians thus ejected was, perhaps, sixty.  There was some feeling about the matter, and the action of the parties securing the eviction of the Indians was sharply criticised at the time.  In October last I was in San Diego, and met Mr. Bryden, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>At the time of my first visit to San Diego, the people of that little city were indignant at the imputation that their sheriff had done anything not in accordance with the highest claims of morality and official duty.  They said, and with seeming reason: Did not the owners of the Cajon Ranch eject 20 white families from their homes, which they had occupied many years?  Did any one cry out at the injustice of turning away these poor white people from their old homes?  Why, then, make such an outcry about ejecting a lot of worthless Indians from lands which they never owned and never intended to own?  These San Diego utterances seemed to me to have much of argument about them, and to go far to show that no great injustice, in this special instance, had been done these straggling old Mission Indians.  On meeting Gen. Vandevere, I found out that my suspicions, aroused some time before, were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:correct, and that the sharpers about San Diego and other places in this State had organized an Indian steal, or swindle, of unusually large proportions.  The facts soon became patent that a ring had been formed.  The ranches in San Diego county were all pooled in the hands of the ring, and an order was procured from the Indian Office in Washington, directing Gen. Vandevere to secure, <HI REND="italics">at once</HI>
097.sgm:, by purchase, or lease with the option to purchase in from 3 to 5 years, lands sufficient for homes for <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
097.sgm:<P>But it is a matter of public interest to know who organized this impudent, shameless steal in Washington.  Who was it that procured the mandatory order on Gen. Vandevere to purchase or lease, <HI REND="italics">at once</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>We landed at the dock at San Diego at 10 o'clock.  Gen. Vandevere, I observed, was provided with a carriage to take him to the Horton House, and although he had not been at San Diego before, he was the recipient of the most distinguished consideration.  I had been in that city before.  i went there a stranger, with a sick son.  I was civilly received, paid my bills, and that was all.  On my way I passed a livery stable, and ordered a buggy, to drive out with my sick boy, but the suspicions of my doing some damage to the well-laid plan of the ring were aroused, and before I could swallow a mouthful of lunch two distinguished gentlemen called, each in a buggy, to take me out riding.  It had dawned on the members of this scheming crowd that the sad, weary and neglected man who had walked their streets eight weeks before without notice, and on whom a leading citizen said to a friend "he had no time to call," was now a personage of so much note as to demand immediate attention.  Reason why?  <HI REND="italics">A ranch might not be sold</HI>
097.sgm:<P>While the climate of Southern California is perfectly delightful, and ought to be a sick man's paradise, it has some drawbacks.  San Diego is a pleasant little city, and has an intelligent, active and enterprising population.  Many of its citizens are kind-hearted and hospitable, but it has, for its size, by far too many people in it who expect, through Tom Scott, the Indians, selling ranches to the government, getting troops quartered down there, or in contracts of one sort and another, to make money.  They impress one with the idea that he is surrounded by people who are "on the make," and that all statements as to land, water, the value of town property and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>What San Diego wants is, a laboring population, that will go into the valleys and develop the water, till the soil, raise fruits and vegetables, and produce milk, butter and poultry--do something besides watching to skin some one.  It can be made a little paradise, instead of a place only desirable as a home for what God and nature have done for it.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The climate at San Diego, while I remained, was positively heavenly.  I was there during most of December, and the mornings were warm enough for a person to sit out of doors, with his ordinary clothing on, and be perfectly comfortable.  At noon, the mercury ranged from 70 to 75 degrees, and the evenings were as balmy as the softest days of May in Illinois.  What a comfort it would be to all our loved invalids at home to sleep in such an atmosphere--to be lulled to rest by the measured murmers of the ocean, instead of shivering in the wintry blasts of Springfield!</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Dec</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. XII.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Return from San Diego--The Voyage to San Pedro--Jimmy Larkin, the Steward of the Steamer Ancon--A Visit to San Bernardino--Its Location and Early Settlement--The Starke House--San Bernardino Valley and Mountain--The Advantages of the Former as a Resort for Invalids--A New Year's Greeting from the Pacific Coast</HI>
097.sgm:<P>IN the afternoon of a delightful day of last month, at four o'clock, I bade good-bye to San Diego, and, on the ship <HI REND="italics">Ancon</HI>
097.sgm:, steamed out of the most beautiful harbor on this coast, for the roadstead of San Pedro.  Just as we were ready to sail, the Pacific Mail steamer <HI REND="italics">City of Panama</HI>
097.sgm:, from Panama direct, came into port and dropped her anchor a few lengths of the ship distant from the <HI REND="italics">Ancon</HI>
097.sgm:<P>At six o'clock the next morning, the passengers for Los Angeles were roused from their slumbers.  The ship had been riding at anchor for three hours.  The steward had breakfast ready, and the harbor steamer was in sight to take the passengers over the bar and up to Wilmington, where the cars awaited us.</P>
097.sgm:<P>A word about the steward of the <HI REND="italics">Ancon</HI>
097.sgm:: His name is James Larkin.  He belongs in Buffalo.  "Jimmy" Larkin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:was many years steward, and sometimes mate, on the North Shore Line of steamers that used to ply between Detroit and Buffalo.  The first time I ever saw him, he was steward on the <HI REND="italics">Plymouth Rock</HI>
097.sgm:.  That was in 1853.  I was a sick man, going off from the fevers of Southern Illinois, and away from the Illinois Central railroad, on the construction of which I was then engaged, to either die or get well.  I was a passenger, on a stormy day and night on Lake Erie, on board the <HI REND="italics">Plymouth Rock</HI>
097.sgm:<P>At Los Angeles I met my friend Clark, and we at once left for San Bernardino, of which I had read and heard so much.  The distance is 60 miles by rail, through one of the most picturesque countries in America.  The plains and mountains were covered with that most beautiful of all grasses, the alfillare&grave;, now about four inches high, and the air was as pure and pleasant as any one could desire.</P>
097.sgm:<P>San Bernardino lies in a valley of the same name, directly west of Los Angeles, which is, in many respects, one of the most remarkable in California.  The town is situated at the northern end of the valley at the foot of the mountains, about four miles from the railroad station named Colton, in honor of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The original San Bernardino settlement was made by members of the Mormon battalion that came out to California in 1846.  They settled old San Bernardino, about two miles from the present town, and planted some orange and olive orchards, but when Brigham Young ordered all Mormons to Utah, the members about San Bernardino, except those opposed to polygamy, returned to Salt Lake City, leaving only a handful behind.  The remnant thus left, and their children, still linger about the old settlement, and, I believe, keep up the form of a Mormon church, and that is all, as they exercise no appreciable influence in the community.</P>
097.sgm:<P>My readers will, no doubt, ask for the reason of the settlement of the Mormons in this valley, 80 miles away from the coast, and walled in on all sides by mountains.  Here they found <HI REND="italics">water</HI>
097.sgm:, and that in great abundance.  Good water in Southern California is as attractive as the gold mines of Nevada, only in lesser degree.  No man who has not visited this State can estimate the value of pure running water--water that runs the year round.  At Old and New San Bernardino water is abundant.  It flows in a perennial stream from the mountains, whose hoary peaks are covered with ice and snow, and murmers in rills and rivulets from a hundred flowing wells in the vicinity.  The soil in and around the town is mostly sand, overlaid by the detritus of the mountains, which has for ages been deposited, from year to year, by the rains that have washed their rugged sides.  We reached the town after dark.  The drive from Colton was in an old-fashioned stage coach, drawn by six horses, over a heavy, sandy road, with cactus and sage brush on either side as high, almost, as the backs of the horses.  Just before reaching town we crossed a rippling stream a foot or more deep, and perhaps twenty feet wide.  It is one of the affluents of the Santa Anna river, and runs perpetually.  We were advised at Los Angeles to go to the Starke House, as it is the best hotel in the town.  In front of this house are a few of the most magnificent pepper trees I have ever seen in California.  They are fifteen or eighteen inches in diameter, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>After supper I came in contact with a gentleman named Berry, originally from the State of Maine.  He is now interested in some mines--has been in California many years.  He was attentive, polite and intelligent.  Learning that I would go to Riverside in the morning, and would have only a little while to look over San Bernardino, he proposed to show us about the town by moonlight.  It contains about 2,500 people; is most romantically situated, and walking about it in the glorious moonlight, one could imagine himself in the city of Damascus.  On each side of many of the streets, and on one side of all, was reflected the glittering sheen of the rippling water.  Flitting through the streets, or sitting along the sidewalks against the houses, could be seen the dusky faces and squalid forms of Indian men and women, while the saloons were swarming with yellow, piratical looking, Mexicans and the rough miners from the mines about Panamint and elsewhere.  There are many good people in and around San Bernardino, but, judging from those in the streets and about the saloons, and the appearance of the houses, the stores, the churches, the school building, and the general air of the place, one is impressed with the feeling that the town is dominated by influences not likely to secure a very rapid growth, or make it very desirable as a place of residence.  And yet San Bernardino is unquestionably one of the most desirable places in this State for those suffering from diseases of the throat and lungs. It is protected on the east, north and west by high mountains from cold winds, and never has any fogs.  The climate in winter is almost perfect.  In summer the weather is warm, but the nights are cool.  The water is excellent, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>From the porch of the hotel, during our stay, we had a most magnificent view of Mount San Bernardino, 40 miles distant, and the San Jacinto Mountains, a little farther off, and lying to the southeast.  These mountain ranges are separated by San Gorgonio Pass, through which the Southern Pacific railroad finds its way to the Mohave Desert, from Los Angeles to Fort Yuma.</P>
097.sgm:<P>From San Bernardino there is a line of stages, run by Wells, Fargo &amp; Co., across the Mohave and Colorado Deserts into Arizona, some 600 miles.  the stages are two-horse concerns, called "buckboards"--that is, they are made of four wheels, and two-inch coupling boards, about 9 feet long, on which are fastened, inside the wheels, three spring seats, wholly uncovered.  The freight, baggage and mails are packed away under the seats and at the ends of the boards.  In some places through the deserts the horses are driven 40 miles without change, and almost without food or water.  I saw women and children who came through from Arizona, traveling day and night on these topless buckboard vehicles.</P>
097.sgm:<P>But the day for such staging, even here, will soon be over.  In another year the Southern Pacific railroad will have penetrated the deserts and reached the mining fields of Arizona and New Mexico, and staging such long distances will become a thing of the past.</P>
097.sgm:<P>As I have no room left, I must reserve what I wish to write about Riverside and my visit there for another letter.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Since my last letter was finished, another year has been numbered with the unreturning Past.  Its joys and sorrows, its successes and failures, its lights and shadows, are all garnered up in the store-house of Eternity.  Each of my readers, and the writer of these Pacific Coast Letters, stand another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Jan</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. XIII.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Bernardino and the remarkable Valley of that Name--Santa Anna River--The Old Mission--The Primitive Population--The Riverside Colony--A Pacific Coast Paradise--Profits of Orange Cultivation--The Hot Sulphur Springs, etc</HI>
097.sgm:<P>EARLY on the morning of the 12th of December, 1875, after a hasty survey of San Bernardino by daylight--a survey that confirmed my opinions formed in rambling over it the previous night by moonlight--we drove eleven miles down the valley, crossing the Santa Ana river on the way, to the Riverside Colony.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE SANTA ANA RIVER</P>
097.sgm:<P>Rises in the San Bernardino Range, and is fed by several streams which flow into it near the base of the mountains.  It can scarcely be said to have any banks, except here and there, where it runs near some of the foot hills.  Generally it is approached on land as level as that surrounding sheets of water in the prairies of Illinois after a heavy spring rain, with this difference: the Illinois water would be found on the top of a grass sod, while the Santa Ana has a bottom of hard, white sand.  The stream of water in this beautiful little river, where we crossed it, was about two hundred and fifty feet wide and eighteen inches deep in the deepest place.  It was a clear, bold, running stream, and the sandy bottom was so hard that the horses' feet scarcely made an impression on it.  The approach to the river <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>OLD SAN BERNARDINO MISSION,</P>
097.sgm:<P>But all that remains of it now are heaps of ruins, and a few squalid looking Mexican and Indian huts.  The Mexicans and Indians mingle together peacefully, and seem to be nearly on a level--only one rarely sees an Indian woman on horse-back, while the Mexican women, especially the younger one, seem to take great delight in riding anything in the shape of a horse, and at a most furious pace.  They have no side-saddles, so far as I have seen.  They mount a Mexican saddle, with their feet on the <HI REND="italics">right hand side of the horse</HI>
097.sgm:<P>RIVERSIDE COLONY.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Riverside, comprehensively, is made up of three colonies--the Santa Ana, New England and Riverside.  The three own about 25,000 acres of land lying south of the Southern Pacific railroad, and covering pretty much all the best lands in the southern half of the San Bernardino Valley.  These lands are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The colonies named all join in one general system of irrigation.  They have built two canals from a point on the river, about eight miles from the village of Riverside, to the lower end of the lands owned by them.  A third one is being constructed.  These main canals, or ditches, run lengthwise through these colonies, at such distances apart and are located in such a manner as to readily furnish water to the whole 25,000 acres.  They are of such capacity and have such fall as to furnish, at all times--and for all time, for that matter--a never-failing supply of water for all who may purchase lands in these communities.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The lands are divided into 20-acre lots, and can be purchased for about $35 per acre, including, perpetually, a proportionate part of the water, which the proprietors place, at their own expense, on the land.  A drive, or boulevard, 18 miles long and 132 feet wide, is laid out through the entire length of the lands of the colonies.  This avenue is to be graded and lined on each side with fruit, shade and ornamental trees, and one row in the middle.  When completed, it will be the handsomest drive and best ornamented road in the world.  It is intended to have flowing water on each side of this avenue, which, with the trees, will be a part of the property of those owning the contiguous lands.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The village of Riverside is laid out in 2 1/2-acre lots.  It contains about 600 inhabitants.  It has a school, a church, a post-office, a blacksmith shop, a dry-goods and a drug store; also a telegraph office.  It is a neat, clean, Yankee-looking village, and in a few years will be a most desirable place in which to live.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It is only three years since the first tree was planted here, and yet there are tastefully ornamented grounds, full of fruits and flowers.  I measured a eucalyptus tree (the Australian gum), three years old from the seed.  It was 31 inches in circumferance--equal to 10 inches in diameter.  Within 20 feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Unless the summer winds, which sometimes are strong in the valley, should damage orchards, it seems to me that Riverside and vicinity present great attractions to men of moderate means; and, as I have not heretofore said anything about the profitableness of</P>
097.sgm:<P>ORANGE GROWING.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In California, I will give my readers the general conclusions on the subject of the most intelligent gentlemen I have met, and, in doing this, I will confine myself to calculations based on one of these 20-acre lots in Riverside.  The land, with water, will cost--say $35 per acre--$700.  The terms are, one-third cash, the balance in one and two years, with ten per cent. interest.  The plowing of the land, with harrowing, is $2.50 per acre--equal to $50 for 20 acres.  Orange trees are planted 50 to the acre, and sometimes 60.  Good three-year-old trees can be had for $1.50 per tree.  The trees, at four years from planting, begin to bear, and will, perhaps, produce from 25 to 50 oranges, worth two cents each on the tree.  Assuming that they will bear the fourth year 30, 500 trees will then yield to the owner $300; and should they increase in bearing in proportion, the fifth year, $800; the sixth year, $1,500; the seventh year, $2,000; the eighth year, $2,500; the ninth year, $3,000; the tenth year, $3,500; the eleventh year, $4,000; the twelfth year, $5,000.  These are low figures.  A tree fifteen years old ordinarily bears from 1,000 to 2,000 oranges, which, at two cents each, would be from $20 to $40 per tree, or, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The work of irrigation is light.  Orange orchards are irrigated once in three weeks, from the first of June to the time when the fruit begins to ripen.  In many orchards, peach and apple trees are set in between the rows of orange trees.  These bear the second year from the planting of three-year-old trees, and so abundantly that the trees will break down unless the fruit is thinned out.</P>
097.sgm:<P>From what I have said, it will be seen that 20 acres of land at Riverside, planted out, one-half in orange trees, will cost as follows:</P>
097.sgm:<P>Land, with water ($35 per acre)<HSEP>$700</P>
097.sgm:<P>Plowing and harrowing<HSEP>50</P>
097.sgm:<P>Five hundred three-year-old trees, at $1.50<HSEP>750</P>
097.sgm:<P>Planting<HSEP>10</P>
097.sgm:<P>Horse, to plow the land 75</P>
097.sgm: <P>Harness<HSEP>15</P>
097.sgm:<P>Plow<HSEP>10</P>
097.sgm:<P>Small wagon<HSEP>100</P>
097.sgm:<P>House, to start with 500</P>
097.sgm: <P>Total<HSEP>$2,210</P>
097.sgm:<P>I inquired the cash value of 20-acre lots, not so well improved as provided for in the estimate above, and learned that they were held at $4,000--some asked $5,000.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The two and one-half acre lots in the village of Riverside are sold for $400 each, on the same terms as the 20-acre lots.  Those improved and planted in fruit and flowers, with houses worth from $500 to $750, are valued at $3,000--some of them more.  These village lots are fenced, generally with plank, three boards high.  They are all abundantly supplied with perpetually running water.  It is said that all of them which have been cultivated with any degree of care, have yielded, in vegetables and fruit, besides what the families have used, from $200 to $350 per annum.  I give these figures to my readers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>This Riverside property is under the sole management of Capt. W. T. Sayward, who has controlled the project from the beginning.  He is sanguine of great results, and I think he will not be disappointed.  The Captain is an old Californian, having been on this coast and on the ocean for twenty-six years.  He is a man of great experience, wide observation and much sagacity.  He owns a controlling interest in Riverside, and lives there.  Still, he has not forgotten his ancient home and place of nativity, the good old State of Maine.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The day I spent at Riverside, driving over the beautiful lands, in full view of Santa Ana river and the rippling canals, rivulets and rills seen in all directions, the sun blazed in all his glory; the cerulean hue of the firmament was more glorious than the poetic descriptions of the skies of Italy, and the mercury stood at 75 degrees in the shade at 2 o'clock P.M.  There is no winter--no frost; flowers and fruits are perennial.  It is a place to be coveted, and that without a violation of the decalogue.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Twelve miles from Riverside, and in full view, is the</P>
097.sgm:<P>TEMESCAL VALLEY.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Here, flowing from the mountains, are the <HI REND="italics">Aqua Caliente Medecinales</HI>
097.sgm:.  They are hot sulphur springs.  The curative properties of these waters are said to be surpassed by none in the world.  They are represented as being an almost certain remedy for all diseases of the kidneys, including even Bright's disease itself.  A lady from San Francisco settled here some years ago, with her two sons, the oldest 17 years of age.  Alone in this then unsettled valley, she built herself a house, and in the wilderness found health and strength.  She owns the springs, has an excellent house, furnishes all the comforts of an Eastern home for all who come, and invalids find baths of delightful water in which to lave their diseased and wasted frames, while all around them is the grandest scenery, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Dec</HI>
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097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. XIV.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Further Notes of a Tour in Southern California--A Los Angeles Orange and Grape Plantation--Baronial Home of Leonard J. Rose--Changes of a Generation--Gen. Geo. Stoneman--Anaheim Colony--Mid-Winter Roses--A San Fernando Canon Breakfast--A Hair-Raising Night Ride over Mountain Spurs and beside Yawning Chasms--Arrival in San Francisco</HI>
097.sgm:<P>ON the morning of December 14th, we entered the stage and rumbled out of San Bernardino, taking the train at Colton.  We reached Los Angeles at 10:30 o'clock.  On Saturday I met at the depot, in Los Angeles,</P>
097.sgm:<P>LEONARD J. ROSE, ESQ.,</P>
097.sgm:<P>One of the most notable men in California, whose immense estate I propose to describe, so that the reader may form some estimate of the extent to which orange and vine culture will be carried in this State after a while.  Mr. Rose is of German extraction.  His father, more than thirty years ago, was a substantial honored merchant in Waterloo, Monroe county, Illinois.  The writer and Mr. Rose were boys together in the same vicinity.  In after years, he and Edward L. Baker, of the <HI REND="italics">State Journal</HI>
097.sgm:, now U.S. Consul at Buenos Ayres, were classmates in Shurtleff College.  Rose, after reaching manhood, went to Iowa, married, and then removed to New Mexico, where he made and lost a large amount of money.  He finally set his face towards California, and reached here in 1859, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>I promised Mr. Rose, on my way to San Bernardino, that I would spend a night with him and enough of a day to see his estate.  He lives two miles north of Old San Gabriel Mission, about twelve miles from Los Angeles.</P>
097.sgm:<P>I took the train at 2 o'clock.  On arriving at San Gabriel Station, I was surprised to meet one of Mr. Rose's daughters, in command of a couple of clean, lively mules and a light spring wagon, ready to convey me to "Sunny Slope," the name given by Mr. R. to his place.  The short drive lies north-east, across the Old Mission field, on which stand, here and there, clusters of live oaks.  The day was beautiful, and the rippling stream of water that meanders across the field, coming out of the fields of "Sunny Slope," glittered in the sunshine like a thread of silver.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE ESTATE OF MR. ROSE</P>
097.sgm:<P>Covers about 1,800 acres.  The whole of it is watered by springs that come from the mountains bounding the land on the northeast.  The water is gathered by a dam across a depression lying east of the farm proper, which was built by the Mission Indians perhaps 100 years ago.  It is now as solid as when built, and will endure for ages.  It is of sufficient height to raise the water above the surface of the highest point on the entire tract, thus enabling Mr. Rose to easily irrigate every part of it.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The farm consists of an orange orchard of about 150 acres; vineyards covering, say, 200 acres; and English walnuts perhaps 30 acres more.  The number of orange trees is 7,000; vines, 140,000; English walnut trees, 1,500.  On the southeast portion of the farm, and below the dam some distance in the depression, stand the wine presses, the wine house, the grape-brandy distillery and store-house.  The residence of Mr. Rose is an Italian villa, ample in size and elegantly finished and furnished.  It stands on the highest portion of the estate, surrounded wholly by trees of tropical growth.  On the east and north of the residence, in all their luxuriant growth and beauty, stand the English walnut trees; on the west and south are the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>I have never seen anywhere else so valuable an estate, or one which was more carefully cultivated and cared for in all respects.  A portion of the orange orchard has been planted for 16 years and the remainder about 6 years, but all are bearing.  Nothing could be more beautiful than these orchards.  The orange tree naturally is remarkable for the perfect smoothness of its bark and the beauty of its form.  It will grow 30 feet high, and its trunk will be 10 inches in diameter.  Its foliage is smooth, thick, and as green as emerald.  At this time of the year the fruit is ripe and ready for picking.  Let my readers imagine, if they can, 150 acres of level land, without a weed or spire of grass, set over with 7,000 trees, in rows so straight and at distances so exact that they stand in rows in every direction--trees, the tops of which so closely resemble each other that the difference is scarcely appreciable--and then realize, if they can, the intense green of the leaves with the golden glow of the oranges as they hang by the hundreds and thousands, as far as the eye can reach, and they will form some conception of the semi-tropical grandeur of the home of Mr. Rose.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It is estimated that an orange tree, at 15 years of age, will bear 2,000 merchantable oranges.  Assuming this to be true, as an average crop, in 6 or 7 years the orchard at "Sunny Slope" will bear 14,000,000 oranges, which, at two cents each, less than they are selling for now, will net Mr. Rose $280,000 per annum.  Then take his vineyards, 200 acres, yielding 8,000 pounds to the acre, which, at two cents per pound, will yield $32,000.  The 1,500 English walnut trees will yield $10 worth of nuts to the tree--$15,000 more.  Total yield of the estate, $327,000.  Then there are on this estate 1,000 acres of inclosed pasture lands, well watered, and covered all the year around with rich and nutritious grasses, worth, in the raising of cattle and horses, many thousand dollars more.</P>
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097.sgm:<P>But about the expense of taking care of such an estate?  Let us see: Mr. Rose hires Chinamen alone.  Of these, about 25 do all the work.  They are paid $1 per day, and board themselves.  Assume that they work 300 days in the year, the cost is $7,500, leaving a net profit of $319,500 per annum.  Surely this ought to satisfy the desires of any one.  I give it as my judgment that Mr. Rose will net from $150,000 to $200,000 from his estate the rest of his life, and that, should he live 30 years yet, at the close of his life his estate will then be worth more money than it ever was before.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Of course, the estate being disposed of, Mr. Rose and myself talked of the past.  Thirty-five years ago we were boys, meeting now and then.  Thirty years ago he and Mr. Baker were classmates together.  Since then our paths have been wide apart.  Boyhood passed, manhood came, middle life is passed, and here, amid these orange groves, at the foot of these mountains, in sight of the Pacific Ocean, again we meet.  The sun of life is descending, gray hairs have come, but the past is not forgotten nor early friendship chilled by the lapse of a third of a century.  We talked of the old people whom we had known <HI REND="italics">at home</HI>
097.sgm:<P>In the morning I took another view of that baronial domain.  Under the rays of the morning sun the green of the orange leaves seemed deepened, and the hues of the golden fruit intensified.  Under those grand trees, and at the base of those towering mountains, we parted--to meet again, perhaps never.  I was driven to the station by a quiet, intelligent child of the Flowery Kingdom, and musing on the mutations of time and how little we know of the future and what is in store for us, I soon found myself again at Los Angeles.</P>
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097.sgm:<P>The remainder of the day was spent with</P>
097.sgm:<P>GEN. GEORGE STONEMAN,</P>
097.sgm:<P>Who, like Mr. Rose, has his fortune invested in grapes and oranges.  He has a place fit for the residence of an English nobleman, but I could not go with him to see it.  We compromised the matter, and he concluded to stay.  The memories of the past were recalled, and the battles of the rebellion were fought over again.  We talked of Grant, of Thomas, of Sherman, of Logan, Oglesby, Palmer, and almost everybody else.  At 3 o'clock we parted, and that evening, with Mr. Clark, I went to Anaheim, distant by rail 28 miles south-west from Los Angeles, and ten miles from the ocean.</P>
097.sgm:<P>ANAHEIM</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is the site of a German Colony that purchased, a few years ago, some 10,000 acres of land, sub-divided it into 20-acre lots, and improved each one.  The town was laid off in the center.  The lands have become very valuable, and the town has grown into a place of some 1,500 inhabitants, with a fair hotel, a number of stores of all sorts, and ten or fifteen breweries and distilleries--the latter engaged exclusively in the distillation of grape brandy.  The whole country hereabouts is engaged in growing grapes.  The lands are irrigated with water taken from the Santa Ana river, the same stream that furnishes water for Riverside, about 60 or 70 miles above, and to the north-east.  At Anaheim I saw some of the most gorgeous gardens I ever beheld.  I plucked dozens of roses of a half dozen varieties, of enormous size, and buds of a waxey golden hue, as large as hens' eggs.  Here we spent the night, and next day drove to Santa Ana, a village ten miles further south, on the line of railroad being built to San Diego.  This portion of the Los Angeles Valley is simply a rich, sandy prairie, and perfectly level to the water of the ocean.  I saw a field of castor beans that has been standing and bearing for some years.  The plants are never injured by frost, but grow into quite a little tree, and bear from year to year without any trouble, except that the young ones have to be hoed or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Jan</HI>
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097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. XV</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Labor Question in California--Wages of Laborers--The Incubus of Non-resident Land-owners--Some of the Great Landed Estates--The Water Monopolies--The Great Want of the State</HI>
097.sgm:<P>I AM asked to write something about the great questions that interest the sons and daughters of toil--those who have not and do not expect to excape the primal curse pronounced in the bowers of Eden: "In the sweat of thy face shalt thou eat bread," even here in this land of gold and silver.  With this request I all the more cheerfully comply as, after all, it is to those who shall come to California to labor in the fields, the vineyards, the orchards or in the workshops, that the State has to look for permanent growth and prosperity.  Goldsmith never expressed a nobler sentiment than when he wrote:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Ill fares the land, to hastening ills a prey,<LB>Where wealth accumulates and men decay.<LB>Princes and lords may flourish or may fade--<LB>A breath can make them, as a breath has made;<LB>But a bold peasantry, the country's pride,<LB>When once destroyed can never be supplied."<LB></HI>
097.sgm:<P>The gold and silver of this coast do not furnish the class of people that this State needs, nor will they ever do so.  There is room in California for 3,000,000 of laboring people--people who are willing to do honest work as mechanics, farmers, fruitgrowers, dairymen, millers and common day-laborers--people who will stay away from the mines, and close their ears to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>In the climate of this State, I am satisfied that laboring men will be healthier, and can do more work with less fatigue, than in the Valley of the Mississippi or in the Eastern States.  It is never cold here in the valleys.  No laborer will ever suffer from the wintry blasts that are so fearful with us.  Winter, here, is the time for work.  It is then that most of the farm labor is done.  Wheat is sowed from November to the middle of February.  Cutting and thrashing are done in May and the early part of June, and, as I have said in a former letter, people do not work much on the farms in July, August, September and October.  These are the dry months, and they are spent in trading, getting the wheat to market, attending fairs, looking after the fruit and taking care of the grapes.  In some of the valleys in the southern portion of the State, during the dry months, the weather during the day becomes very warm, but no warmer than our hot days in July and August.  The nights are always cool.</P>
097.sgm:<P>WAGES</P>
097.sgm:<P>Are paid here in gold and silver, and are much higher than in the East.  I give below the prices paid last year for laborers in nearly all the avocations of life.  I think they are the same now:</P>
097.sgm:<P>Bakers, per month, with board <HSEP>$40@60</P>
097.sgm:<P>Blacksmiths, per day<HSEP>3  4</P>
097.sgm:<P>Box makers, per day<HSEP>2 1/2  3</P>
097.sgm:<P>Bricklayers, per day<HSEP>4  5</P>
097.sgm:<P>Butchers, per month, with board<HSEP>40  75</P>
097.sgm:<P>Broom-makers, per dozen<HSEP>2 1/2  3</P>
097.sgm:<P>Butter-makers, per month and found<HSEP>40  50</P>
097.sgm:<P>Brick-makers, per month, with board<HSEP>40  50</P>
097.sgm:<P>Carpenters, per day<HSEP>3 1/2  4</P>
097.sgm:<P>Cabinet-makers, per day<HSEP>3  4</P>
097.sgm:<P>Carriage-makers, per day<HSEP>3  4</P>
097.sgm:<P>Coopers, per day<HSEP>3  4</P>
097.sgm:<P>Cheese-makers, per day<HSEP>2  3</P>
097.sgm:<P>Cooks, per month, with board<HSEP>35  100</P>
097.sgm:<P>Cooks, per month, in private families<HSEP>30  35</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>Chambermaids, in private families, per month<HSEP>$15@20</P>
097.sgm:<P>Chambermaids, in hotels, per month<HSEP>20  25</P>
097.sgm:<P>Dress-makers, in stores, per week<HSEP>10  12</P>
097.sgm:<P>Dress-makers, in families, per day, and board<HSEP>1 1/2  3</P>
097.sgm:<P>Dairymen, per month, with board<HSEP>35  40</P>
097.sgm:<P>Engineers in mills, per day<HSEP>3  5</P>
097.sgm:<P>Farm laborers, per month, with board, <HI REND="italics">in summer</HI>
097.sgm:<P>Farm laborers, per month, with board, <HI REND="italics">in winter</HI>
097.sgm:<P>Gardners, per month, with board<HSEP>40  60</P>
097.sgm:<P>Harness-makers, per day<HSEP>2 1/2  4</P>
097.sgm:<P>Hostlers, per month, with board<HSEP>30  40</P>
097.sgm:<P>Laundry-men and laundry-women, per month, with board<HSEP>30  40</P>
097.sgm:<P>Lumber-men, per month, with board<HSEP>40  60</P>
097.sgm:<P>Machinists, per day<HSEP>3  5</P>
097.sgm:<P>Stone masons, per day<HSEP>4  5</P>
097.sgm:<P>Millers, per day<HSEP>3  5</P>
097.sgm:<P>Millwrights, per day<HSEP>3  5</P>
097.sgm:<P>Milliners, per day<HSEP>1 1/2  3 1/2</P>
097.sgm:<P>Nurserymen, per day, with board<HSEP>1 1/2  2</P>
097.sgm:<P>Painters, per day<HSEP>3  4</P>
097.sgm:<P>Plasterers, per day<HSEP>4  5</P>
097.sgm:<P>Plumbers, per day<HSEP>4  5</P>
097.sgm:<P>Saddlers, per day<HSEP>3  4</P>
097.sgm:<P>Servants, for general housework, per month<HSEP>15  20</P>
097.sgm:<P>Shepherds, per month, and found<HSEP>25  35</P>
097.sgm:<P>Soap-makers, per month, and found<HSEP>35  45</P>
097.sgm:<P>Stone cutters, per day<HSEP>4  5</P>
097.sgm:<P>Team and teamster, per day<HSEP>3  4</P>
097.sgm:<P>Vineyard men, per month and board<HSEP>30  40</P>
097.sgm:<P>Wagon-makers, per day<HSEP>3  4</P>
097.sgm:<P>Wood choppers, per month, and found<HSEP>40  50</P>
097.sgm:<P>Waiters, per month, with board<HSEP>20  40</P>
097.sgm:<P>Young men who will labor, and not want to hang around the cities and towns, can get from $25 to $30 per month, and board, all the year round.  It is this class that is needed in California.  A young man can make and save, keeping himself comfortably and respectably clad, from $250 to $300 each year, in gold.  Mechanics, of course, can double that sum.  Young men accustomed to labor, in coming to California, should make up their minds to stay on farms, in the country.  They can do nothing about the cities and towns.</P>
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097.sgm:<P>Of these estates, 44 contain more than 40,000 acres each.  The number between 30,000 and 40,000 acres is 23; those between 20,000 and 30,000 are 55; those between 10,000 and 20,000 are 148, and those between 5,000 and 10,000 acres, 238.  The entire number of these estates of more than 5,000 acres each is 453.  A few only of these great landed estates are occupied by the owners or actual patentees.  The others were Mexican grants, which were, at the time of their confirmation by the United States, permeated by fraud and perjury.  Millions of acres of land in California have been simply stolen, and without any one caring, as it was generally believed, years ago, that only a small portion of the State would ever be fit for cultivation.  This great and fatal mistake is now beginning to be realized, and the fearful consequences of allowing all the lands to be grabbed by land-sharks, more and more fully demonstrated.  The lands, you are told, are for sale, but in such quantities and at such prices as to forbid any one not possessed of a respectable fortune from coming here.  The division of these great estates, and their sale to poor, hard-working men, as was done by the Illinois Central and other land-grant roads in the Northwest, does not seem to have ever entered into the minds of the large land-holders in California.  At Riverside, and on the lands of the Central California Land Company, in Fresno county, some attempts are made to furnish homes to poor working men.  In a few other places something is being done, but on a scale so small and so complicated as to deter people from coming from distant States and running the risk of failure.  The dangers are too many and too great.  If the land-holders in the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys would sub-divide their lands into tracts down to 40 acres, put them in the market, and let purchasers take them at fair rates, and on such terms as would enable the settlers to realize out of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>ANOTHER DRAWBACK</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is the scarcity of water.  A wheat crop is generally more certain in all parts of California than in the Eastern States, and is always a remunerative crop, grown and harvested with half the labor bestowed on that cereal in the Valley of the Mississippi.  But people want to raise something else besides wheat.  With water they can raise everything.  Water can be had, and in great abundance, but, in procuring it, one of the crowning outrages of this State has to be confronted, and that is</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE WATER MONOPOLIES.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Go where you will, under the mining laws relating to the uses of water, you will find that in some way or other nearly every running stream is thatched over with the claims of water companies.  They will be found along the foot-hills armed with corporate power to change the channels of rivers and send their waters wherever they may please.  Does a man purchase land on one of the tributaries of the Sacramento, San Joaquin or Stanislaus rivers with the expectation that the water will continue to run, he is entirely mistaken.  Five miles above him a water company, fortified by law, may dig a canal and send the water along the hills for ten, twenty, fifty miles and into another river, thus cutting him off entirely and without remedy.  If he complains, this water pirate will, most condescendingly, inform him that it will sell him water at the rate of $2.50 or $5 per acre per annum.  So great has this Water Ring villainy become that it is now one of the gravest of all the public questions pending before the Legislature of this State, now in session at Sacramento.  It is one of the good signs auguring well for California, that at last there are indications that the agricultural interests of the State are to be regarded as paramount to mining, and that honest labor and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Jan</HI>
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097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. XVI.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Chinese Question--The Number, Characteristics and General Appearance of the Celestials on the Pacific Coast--Their Women--Co-Operative Stores--The Anti-Chinese Prejudice and its Cause--What California Owes to these Patient, Industrious Toilers--The Chinese Question in Politics</HI>
097.sgm:<P>THE Chinamen on this coast are daily on the increase.  They number in California about 70,000, in a population of 700,000.  Yesterday 600 came on a single ship.  This is their New Year's day, and they are out in all their glory.  In their quarter of this city they swarm by the thousands, dressed in their best clothes.  Their houses are decked in all the colors known to the Celestial Empire, and Chinese mottoes, emblems, devices and lanterns give them a most singular appearance.  The lanterns are huge affairs, of all colors, and displaying every device, I should think, ever conceived by the Chinamen.  Some of them are immense--fully equal in size to a two-bushel basket.  They are all globular in form, and, when lighted, are very grand.  The material used in their manufacture is perfectly transparent, and looks like colored isinglass.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE CHINESE DRESS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The Chinamen all dress alike, as to the general make-up of their clothing, but in quality and texture there is a very great difference.  Some wear the common Chinese blue or brown denim, cotton stockings and canoe-shaped shoes that are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:exactly alike as to make, differing only in size and texture.  Others wear the finest woolen cloth, and others, again, have their clothing made of gorgeously quilted silk.  All depends on the ability of the Chinamen to buy clothing.  I think all are inclined to dress well if they can afford it.  There are not a great many women, and most of those here are shameless and vicious.  They are a most repulsive lot of human beings.  I have seen a few respectable Chinese women on the street.  They are the wives of rich merchants, and dress most expensively, display magnificent jewelry and a head-gear and a style of getting up the hair perfectly bewildering.  They stiffen their hair with some glutinous substance, and then comb it out in front until it is spread to the thickness of heavy paper; then, by carrying it to the top of the head, puff it out about the temples until it extends six inches from the head.  The switch is made up on the back of the head, in the shape of a ship's rudder, while the top of the head will gleam with pearls, shells and flowers of the most exquisite shapes and colors.  They never wear hat or bonnet, or any covering for their heads whatever.  Their ear-rings are immense.  Their dress is a very loose blouse, fitting close around the neck, with sleeves sometimes almost a yard wide.  It extends a little below the knee.  The trowsers are very wide, and extend to the ankle.  Their shoes are of the same pattern as those worn by the men, except that they are very low at the heel, and the soles so sloped off at each end as to leave a <HI REND="italics">very high heel</HI>
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097.sgm:<P>THE CITIZENSHIP PROBLEM.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Ask the average Democratic politician, and he will dwell on the evils of their presence, and depict the coming disasters from their influx more powerfully than did the Democracy of old, the evils to flow from the abolition of slavery and the presence of millions of "barbarous free niggers."  Ask Pat and Bridget, and they will tell you the "haythens ought to be murthered--every mother's son av thim."  Ask the vile hoodlum population of this city--a population that is more vile and beastly than that which in olden times occupied the "Five Points" in New York--and you will be told that the scheming Democrat and Pat and Bridget are right.  Now, let us look into this Chinese question a little, and see wherein lies the right.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Among the Chinamen there are many educated and wealthy merchants--men shrewd, honest and capable.  They are here and will remain.  Gradually they are bringing their families.  Under the laws of the United States, their children, born here, are American citizens, and the males, when reaching their majority, will vote.  There are some Chinamen here now over 21, and they vote.  Chinamen born in China, under our naturalization laws, it has been assumed, can not become citizens.  Take them to-morrow, were such a thing possible, and allow them all to become naturalized, not one of them would vote the Democratic ticket.  Those born here do not.  That may explain why Democrats are opposed to Chinamen coming here, in part.  In the next place, Bridget and Pat and John Chinaman can not get along together on the labor question.  The Chinamen are good cooks, laundrymen, housekeepers, gardeners, farmers and common laborers.  They are here to labor.  They do not expect to do anything else, and are never a public charge.  Every Chinaman, on his arrival here, is at once numbered and entered as a member of some Chinese company.  Care is taken that the members of the companies are all from the same seaport town or city in China, so that all may feel content.  The officers of the company see that each member gets employment, and supports him until he does.  If he gets sick he is cared for, and if he dies he is buried carefully, and in due <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:time his bones are sent back to the Flowery Kingdom to rest with his fathers.  Each member of each company pays into the treasury of his company 50 cents or "four bittee" per month.  <HI REND="italics">I am told that this tax is carefully and promptly collected</HI>
097.sgm:<P>Such a thrifty, industrious, alien race, ready to work, are objectionable to other foreign populations, of course, as all the others are permitted to become citizens and vote, and thereby are courted and well treated by all demagogues and knaves.  Could the Chinaman vote, the ruffian hoodlums and lawless villians, who are now scarecely restrained from assaulting them in the streets in day time, and who think it brave to assail their quiet homes at night with cobblestones and brickbats, would be dealt with in the most summary manner.  The Chinaman's only sin is, he will work.  If he can not get a high price, he will take a low one, but work he will.  And then, he is neat, clean, sober and patient, always submissive, peaceable and quiet.  A Chinese cook will do as much work as two ordinary women, and will do it well.  His kitchen will always be clean, free from smoke, and sweet.  He will break no dishes, nor will he waste anything.  One Chinaman will do all the cooking for a good-sized family, and will also do all the house work and wash and iron.  He will, from the dish-water and garbage from the kitchen, make the family soap, do the marketing, and make no fuss.  He will do all this for $25 or $30 per month; but he will want half of Saturday in which to walk about in his good clothes.  Sunday he is always at home.  As a waiter at the table, a Chinaman, in his white, snowy garments and black, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>I have been in California more than four months, and have not seen, among all these thousands of Chinamen, a single disorderly or drunken one up to this day.  They occasionally have trouble amongst themselves, and among members of different companies, but never with white men.  To-day, they cover the sidewalks in thousands.  Their houses are open to all comers.  I have been entirely through the Chinese quarter.  All was order, peace and good-will.  They always politely give way for you, and, when spoken to, always answer you most kindly.  No one ever sees an idle, lazy Chinaman.  In several counties in this State, the Chinese population outnumber the voting portion of the Americans.  This is especially true of the mining counties, where the Chinamen have gathered to work over the dirt of the old Placer Mines.</P>
097.sgm:<P>CHEAP LABOR.</P>
097.sgm:<P>That is what California wants, and that is what is developing the agricultural resources of the State.  Take the 70,000 Chinamen out of California, its industries would be ruined, and the lands, now so productive, would be cultivated without remunerative results.  They supply, by their toil, nearly all the vegetables and much of the poultry.  They are doing a large share of the farm-work, and build all the railroads and irrigating canals and ditches.  They do much of the cooking, and nearly all the washing and ironing.  It is said they send the money they save back to China.  Why?  Because they are not safe, either in person or property, here.  Were they protected as citizens are, they would soon own lands, town lots <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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097.sgm:<P>LEGISLATURE OF CALIFORNIA</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is like that of many other States--pretty well filled with ignorant demagogues.  They defer to the ignorant rabble, whose votes they court.  The rabble vote--the Chinamen do not; therefore, protect the rabble, and down with the Chinaman!  The Democratic party of this State is set against the Chinamen and their cheap labor.  They always come in at all conventions with a resolution denouncing the Chinese as a dangerous class, whose coming ought to be arrested at once, and means be employed to remove those already here.  You are told by the Democracy that they are heathens, and their coming will demoralize this State, and all other sections, whenever they get a footing.  Now and then you will find Republicans talking in this same strain.  I think some move, as usual for a number of years past, has been made in Congress this wnter to arrest the immigration to this country of these Celestials.  Now, in my mind, a Chinaman has the same right to come to this country, find a peaceful home, breathe the free air of liberty, and be protected in his person, his family and property, as any one else.  We have boasted, for a century past, that this is a land of refuge for the oppressed and down-trodden of all nations; that under our flag the family of man might gather, assured of "life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness."  For a century we have accepted the grand announcement as true, that God has made of one flesh all the nations that dwell on the face of the whole earth, and that all have the same inalienable rights.  Let us stand by these grand old truths, and bid the Chinaman, the Japanese and all others, welcome.</P>
097.sgm:<P>But men here are not honest in their utterances on the Chinese question.  From what they say, you would infer that they would not hire a Chinaman for any purpose whatever; but when you go to their houses, and on their farms, you find John <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>As to their heathenism, that is their business.  A heathen who keeps all his contracts with you, does his work faithfully and honestly, and well, and is always sober, polite and clean, is not so bad, after all.  I think I could find much worse people with white skins and making loud professions of Christianity.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Jan</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. XVII.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Rainy Season in California--Prospective Large Crops--The Tule Lands of the Sacramento Valley--Price of Articles of Domestic Use in San Francisco--Money Kings of California--Tendency to Indulge in Stock-Gambling--Political and Other Drawbacks--Liquor Consumption--State Legislature--Disgraceful Bullyism</HI>
097.sgm:<P>GRADUALLY the long rainy season begins to give signs of ceasing, and the sun occasionally shows its face again.  It has, since the first of last November, rained more than forty days and forty nights.  Indeed, at times, we have had strong symptoms of another Noachian deluge.  The clerk of the weather tells us that it has already rained about 24 inches at San Francisco, and perhaps twice that amount in the extreme northern part of the State.  The rivers in the Sacramento Valley have become little seas, and some millions of acres of land are either under water or most uncomfortably moist.  In the mountains there have been great falls of snow.  But the farmers are rejoicing at their good prospects for crops of unusual yield this season, and the doctors are preparing for an unusually good business, as the flooded lowlands in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Valleys, when the hot, dry season comes on, fill the air with malarial poison, and bilious fevers and agues become, to all but those acclimated, almost an epidemic.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It is often remarked that great crops and much sickness always go together.  These large bodies of tule lands, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>As this is to be a letter made up of</P>
097.sgm:<P>ODDS AND ENDS,</P>
097.sgm:<P>And as some of my readers may want to come to this coast, I will give the cost here, in gold, of some of the leading articles in domestic use: Butter is worth 40 to 50 cents per pound; cheese, 15 to 30 cents per pound; eggs, 40 to 75 cents per doz.; hams and bacon, 16 to 20 cents per pound; potatoes (poor), $1.10 per bushel; onions, $2; cabbage, 15 cents per head; turnips, 25 cents per dozen; apples, about $3.50 per bushel; cranberriers, $8 per bushel; chickens, 75 cents to $1 each--and poor ones at that; turkeys, about 25 cents per pound, and not very good; geese, $1.50 to $2 each, and scarce; beef, from 15 to 25 cents, and not to be compared to the beef sold in Springfield; pork, 15 cents, and mostly eaten by Chinamen, who are also extravagantly fond of chickens.  They deem the cow a sacred animal, and do not eat beef.  Clothing of all kinds is about as cheap as in Illinois.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>POLITICAL EARTHQUAKE</P>
097.sgm:<P>On this coast, and turn the State upside down two or three years ago.  The smouldering elements are here, and will repeat, if handled with skill, the same results at almost any election.</P>
097.sgm:<P>As matters now stand, the farmer, the mechanic and the laboring man have little to boast of in the way of social and political recognition.  I do not well see how matters are to be changed very much until the land monopolists are compelled to sell out, and how that is to be done is a grave question.  Death and misfortune may hasten the consummation so devoutly to be wished for by all true friends of California.  The struggles between the railroads and the people are of easy solution, if political shysters and dishonest demagogues can be kept out of the way.  The railroads must bend, at last, to the honest will and truest interests of the people.  The shyster and demagogue will ride on a pass and abuse the roads; the roads and the people have interests so perfectly identical that they can not and will not quarrel, if left to themselves.</P>
097.sgm:<P>ANOTHER GREAT DRAWBACK</P>
097.sgm:<P>To California is the disinclination on the part of the common people to give up the dream of getting rich in a day, and settling down to honest, old-fashioned, steady work.  There is by far too much of a disposition to farm in the San Joaquin Valley and live in San Francisco; or, in other words, there is too much of the old ways of the planters of the Gulf States in <HI REND="italics">ante bellum</HI>
097.sgm:<P>San Francisco is the Mecca of California.  Here all wish to come and live--live in lodging houses and board in restaurants; speculate in mining stocks, attend the theatres and spend their time in idleness or festivity.  If the lands and water were not monopolized, and people would labor half as much on their farms as they do in Illinois, California would soon become the richest agricultural State in the Union.  As it is now, farmers do not live as well and happily as the agriculturists of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>CONSUMPTION OF LIQUOR.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It is a matter of amazement to one here to figure up the quantities of whisky, brandy, rum, gin, wine, ale, porter and beer used in this State.  Fifteen millions of gallons are manufactured in the State, and fifteen millions more are said to be imported annually from different parts of the world, making thirty million gallons in all, or an allowance of about 42 gallons to each man, woman and child in the State.  If the males who drink are in proportion to the women and children of one in four, they consume, each, one and one-third quarts per day; a rather large allowance for a sober people.  I do not say that so much is consumed, as much of the wine, whisky and beer produced here may be exported to Nevada, Idaho, Oregon, Washington Territory and British Columbia.  Still the population of those States and Territories are small, in comparison with California, and, after making all deductions, an exceptionally large quantity of liquors is left and consumed here; more, perhaps, than in any other portion of the United States.  I think the climate is favorable to those who drink much, and that drinkers are less injured by their potations than elsewhere.  The Chinese do not drink.  Their vice is smoking opium, which they do huddling together in some den, after which they sleep and perhaps dream of home.  Of course, in their somnolent state, they are perfectly harmless.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE CALIFORNIA LEGISLATURE</P>
097.sgm:<P>I have seen in session.  It has for its use one of the very handsomest State Houses in the Union--a house in singular contrast with the decayed-looking city of Sacramento.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In the Senate there is good order and a fair average of ability.  Such men as Edgerton, Graves and Farley would rank well anywhere.  There are several others who, as lawyers, debaters and faithful members of committees, stand well.  But, as with us, there is a large percentage of ingrained demagogism and stupidity found in the honorable Senate.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>A Senator named Laine has distinguished himself high above all his colleagues, by leading in a crusade against the press of this State.  He has actually secured the passage of a bill that will enable every thief, knave and hoodlum in California to bring libel suits against newspapers; and also to compel, under severe penalties, the name of the writer of every newspaper article to be appended thereto--thus placing the papers at the mercy of thieves and scoundrels, and depriving them of all that makes them independent and useful to the public.</P>
097.sgm:<P>There is a large number of politicians and others in California who dread an independent press, and will do anything to gag or break it down, so that they can succeed, unexposed, in their nefarious schemes of trickery and plunder.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The House of Representatives is very much inferior to the Senate.  It is the weakest body of legislators I have ever seen.  It has the same horror of newspaper criticism as the Senate, but in a far greater degree.  The reporter of the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
097.sgm:, of this city, was most brutally and murderously beaten while leaning over his desk hard at work in the Senate, the other day, by a member from Mariposa, named Wilcox.  The blow was from back of the chair of the reporter, and over his unprotected head, with a manzinita stick, heavy enough to have killed him instantly had not the club broken.  As it was, the head of the poor fellow was cut to the skull.  In an instant his whole person was covered with blood.  He sprang to his feet, blinded by the flow of blood, and attempted to draw a pistol, when the man who had so inhumanly assaulted him, got away some distance and drew an immense revolver.  Now, the disgrace of all this display is, that the articles in the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
097.sgm: were perfectly legitimate discussions of public questions and the action of public bodies, and that the reporter is a small man, and Wilcox a giant in size, weighing perhaps 230 pounds, and not an ounce of surplus flesh on him.  He prides himself in being called "the Mariposa blacksmith."  The House has taken no action in the way of rebuking him, and an attempt to do so in the Senate was laid on the table.  The Grand Jury of Sacramento county, however, has indicted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The reporter of the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Feb</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. XVIII.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Land Troubles of a Ring-Cursed State--A New Officer, with Dangerous Powers--He is to Inquire Into the Validity of Titles Covered by Mexican Grants--The Results Likely to Inure to Real Estate--The Baronial Estates, etc</HI>
097.sgm:<P>AT last it has dawned on the obtuse perceptions of gentlemen in Washington, and also in this State, that vast areas of the best lands of California have been secured by knaves and thieves, through the Department of the Interior in the Federal Capitol.  Although late in the day, it is well even now to ascertain how a man, who held, in 1846, or before that time, a claim for 400 acres of land, could sell it to some land-shark, who could swell it to 4,000 acres by the time it reached Washington; or, if for 4,000, to 40,000; or perhaps four times the latter figure.  These manipulations have, it seems, been so frequent as to excite universal suspicion and a good degree of indignation.  For the first time in many years, there seems to be a determined movement to uncover these frauds, and have the titles secured thereby set aside.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Mr. Secretary Chandler seems quite inclined to let all parties disposed to assail weak or fraudulent titles here, have a chance, and things may become lively.  If these movements are in good faith, and in the interests of men who will till the soil and add to the agricultural wealth of the State, it is in the proper direction, and ought to be encouraged by all men, both in and out of office.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>It is hinted, however, that the movement against land-grant titles under the old Mexican Governors here, is not in the least intended to break up the great estates of baronial fee-holders, and make lands cheap, and to subject them to preemption and settlement by poor men--laboring men, who are so much needed in California; but that it is backed by, and derives its vitality from, the Central Pacific Railroad Company, in its insatiable greed for wealth and power.  If the great land-grant titles in the State should be declared fraudulent and void, then the railroad company could come in under the land-grant acts of Congress, and gorge itself with vast bodies of the best lands on the Pacific slope, some of which are now worth from $100 to $500 per acre.  I do not know if the charge against the railroad company be true or false, but I can readily see the extent of its interest in pushing these investigations, and the little interest that honest labor has in the contest, if this mammoth corporation of this ring-cursed State is to be the recipient of the benefits of these investigations.</P>
097.sgm:<P>A lawyer named Howard, of this city, has been made Assistant Attorney General, with, it is said, all the powers of the law officer of the Presidential Cabinet, with his headquarters in the city of San Francisco, to examine into, and if, in his judgment, it is expedient, to commence proceedings against all whose titles to land he may regard as fraudulent, by Mexican grants approved by authorities of the United States.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It does not require much forecast to see what a dangerous power has been lodged in the hands of this new-made officer of this coast.  How many of the great landed magnates of this State will hesitate, on some terms or other, to convince this gentleman of the genuineness of their titles?  What potent influences will the railroad company exert to convince him that half the grants of the State are founded in fraud, and ought to be set aside?  How long can the virtue of a single official, 3,500 miles away from the Capital of the Nation, endure the strain that will be brought to bear upon him?  Who can tell the animus lodged behind him in the political rings of this State, and of which he must, of necessity, be a tool and dependent?  I can readily foresee that such an office may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>I do not say that this is a scheme to plunder the unprotected farmer or small holder of land, as it is mildly stated that Mr. Howard will examine into and give his opinion on the titles of such for a very small fee.  Now, should some one move, in the United States Senate, a resolution, declaring that all the titles made by the Illinois Central Railroad Company to hundreds of thousands of people on lands sold by it are presumably fraudulent, and have an Assistant United States Attorney-General appointed, whose residence should be in Chicago, to inquire into and report upon the titles made by that corporation, is it probable that such action would tend to strengthen the faith of the unadvised public in the certainty and indefeasibility of its conveyances?</P>
097.sgm:<P>These old Mexican grants cover between 8,000,000 and 10,000,000 acres of the best lands in California.  That they were all, more or less, tainted with fraud when they were confirmed by the government at Washington, none doubt.  But when it is remembered that nearly all of these grants were confirmed and patents to them issued under administrations of Fillmore, Pierce and Buchanan, and that most of them are now 20 years old; that the lands have been subdivided and sold by the original grantees; that many, if not nearly all, of the original <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>In another respect, the evils I have hinted at may even be exceeded.  There has gradually grown up, for some years past, a strong and constantly increasing sentiment on the part of the people here, that the great landholders of the State must sell out their estates.  So firmly has this feeling imbedded itself in the public mind, that a number of these baronial gentlemen have already concluded to unload, and let toil and labor have a chance in the struggles of humanity in this gold-and-silver-cursed State.  If, however, this scheme to fill the State with alarm and distrust, and unsettle all confidence in land titles, is allowed to continue, who will buy lands of these large holders?  Who will invest his money in real estate for a home for himself and family, and for the development of the fruits of honest labor?  It can be seen at a glance that such a crusade will as effectually blast the prosperity of many portions of this State, as if struck by the hand of the Almighty.</P>
097.sgm:<P>These movements are suggestive.  How was it that such frauds as are implied in these movements could be consummated from 1847 to 1860?  It is true, that land for agricultural purposes in California, except in a few favored spots, was regarded as substantially worthless.  Thus the Lux and Millers, the Friedlanders, the Chapmans, the Fosters, the Pratts, and many others, were enabled to get, almost on their own terms, all the land they wanted.  During all these years, and when vast tracts of land were passing into the hands of the land-grabbers, the State was represented in Congress by able men, few of whom have become rich, and none of them, I believe, are very largely the owners of land in the State.  Latham, who was Governor and Senator, is said to be a rich man, but not in lands.  He is a banker, and owns a handsome estate at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>There are gentlemen in the State who have held office and are not free from reproach.  It is said, that the Surveyors General and land officers have not been as faithful to their trusts as officials so far away from the capital of the country ought have been; but nothing, I think, has been proven, except that the late Surveyor General was rather partial to some pets and favorites in letting contracts to survey the unsurveyed portions of the State, and that the virtue of some of the land officers has been overcome by large holders of land warrants and college scrip.  I do not know of any man who has been in public life in Washington who is the owner of a large landed estate here.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It is not my intention, in this letter, to assail the motives or acts of any one.  I only desire to indicate the dangers to be apprehended from such a loose and ill-contrived piece of legislative action as that indulged by the United States Senate in the affirmation of its belief in the worthlessness of land grant titles in California, and the creation of an Assistant Attorney-General, with his headquarters in this city, armed with power to becloud the title to one-third of the arable lands of the State, and precipitate litigation which will last as long and become as complicated as the case of Mrs. Myra Clarke Gaines against <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Feb</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. XIX.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">History of the Religious Movement on the Pacific Coast--The Early Mining Population and Its Reckless Character--Mixed Nationalities--The First Protestant Ministers and their Work--Summing Up of Results</HI>
097.sgm:<P>RELIGIOUS affairs on the Pacific Coast, and the denominations which have firmly planted themselves on the plains, among the hills and in the mountains of the Golden State, is a subject of which the many readers of <HI REND="italics">The Journal</HI>
097.sgm:<P>THE EARLY SOCIAL ASPECTS</P>
097.sgm:<P>Of California were <HI REND="italics">sui generis</HI>
097.sgm:<P>No man has, as yet, attempted to summarize and give to the world the sufferings, by sea and land, of the vast numbers of men who reached the mines on the American river in 1847-51.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>"GOLD!  GOLD!!</P>
097.sgm:<P>So easy to get and so hard to hold," until want, with its skinny fingers, should haunt them no more.  Not since the days of Peter the Hermit rallying Christendom to rescue the tomb of the Saviour of our fallen race, had there been seen such a gathering of the nations; and, perhaps, not again in a thousand years will the world again set its face to another California.  On the American river, from 1847 to 1856, gathered men of all nations, climes and peoples.  The representatives of England and the nations on the continent of Europe, with the olive-colored children of the Asiatic races, here met the men of all the States of the American Union, in one wild, crazy, selfish scramble for gold.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The pen of no man has yet, and perhaps never will, faithfully portray the miseries, the anguish and agonies of men as they suffered and struggled and died in huts, hovels, and on the damp, bare earth, by the thousands, in the old placer mines of this State.  There are many men here yet who witnessed those scenes of almost unparalleled human suffering, and they speak of them even now with bated breath.  Those who came by sea, and the Isthmus, on reaching San Francisco, found themselves two hundred miles away from the gold-fields, with the Valley of the Sacramento, one hundred miles across, lying between, and, during the spring, flooded with the waste waters of the swollen river, and, in summer, steaming with deadly malarial poison.  These obstacles were utterly disregarded, and thousands of young men, tenderly reared and highly educated, threw away their baggage and started on foot to the field of untold riches, where they expected to realize that for which, amid the dangers of the heaving ocean, they had longed, and of which they had dreamed so fondly.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In the rallying of Christendom to rescue the Holy Sepulchre from the possession of the Saracen, there was something that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Still, there were</P>
097.sgm:<P>BRIGHT AND HONORABLE EXCEPTIONS</P>
097.sgm:<P>To this abandonment of all the restraints of the soberer rules of life and the moral teachings of the past.  In early days there came here men who rose above the glitter and glamour of gold; men who brought with them the unconquerable, undying belief that the "wealth of Ormus or of Ind" is not to be compared for a single moment to the glories that flame forever along the gold-paved streets of the New Jerusalem, and the joys that await the toil-worn, faithful ones in the "city which hath foundations whose builder and maker is God"--men who believed in the unrevealed glories and inexhaustible wealth to which holy men and women are heirs, beyond the sorrows, the sufferings, the evils, the disappointments and heart-breakings of this sin-stricken earth on which we pass an allotted pilgrimage.  Will the reader permit me to say a few words in commemoration of these disciples of the Redeemer, who have passed to the "shining shore," and in honor of the few who yet remain and wait, ready to pass up and become heirs to an inheritance whose scenes of glory "surpass fable and are yet true, scenes of accomplished bliss"?</P>
097.sgm:<P>The first ministers of the gospel who came here to plant Protestantism on the ruins of the Catholic Missions of three-quarters of a century gone by, were four in number.  They came together on the same ship.  Three of them came out under the patronage of the Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, I believe, and the fourth under the patronage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:of the American Baptist Home Mission Society.  The Presbyterians were, Rev. S. H. Wiley, who settled at Monterey, then the Capital of the State; Rev. S. Woodbridge, Jr., who was stationed at Benicia, and Rev. J. W. Douglas, who began his labors at San Jose, soon to enjoy, very briefly, the glory of being the Capital of the State.  Rev. O. C. Wheeler, the Baptist minister, established himself in San Francisco, and founded here the first church.  These men arrived here the last day of February, 1849, within a few days, now, of 26 years ago.  Rev. T. D. Hunt, a missionary to the Sandwich Islands, had preceded the coming of the four clergymen named above, having reached the coast in October, 1848, but not to engage in the ministry here, I think.  In April, 1849, Rev. Albert Williams arrived in San Francisco, and, on the 20th of May, organized the First Presbyterian Church in this city, and opened a Sunday school and a day school.  In the same month, the Rev. W. Grove Deal, a physician and local Methodist preacher, began holding religious exercises in the city of Sacramento.  In July, 1849, Rev. J. A. Benton reached California, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
097.sgm:<P>From these humble beginnings, Protestantism dates its birth on the Pacific slope, and its growth has more than kept pace with the increase of population.</P>
097.sgm:<P>For 80 years, prior to 1848,</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE DISCIPLES OF ST. FRANCIS</P>
097.sgm:<P>Had undisputed and undisturbed possession of all California.  They were guarded by the soldiery, not of the King of Kings, but of the occupant of the throne of the Spanish monarchy.  They had their heart's desire.  They exercised regal sway and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The discovery of gold ended this medi&aelig;val stagnation--this contented mental and moral stupor.  The gathering nations overwhelmed the Spaniards and natives, and jostled each other in their struggle for gold; but at the beginning, as if ordered in the councils of Omnipotence, came the brave, the faithful and earnest representatives of the Son of Mary, and in His name demanded a place and a hearing among men who had forgotten all for what never has and never can satisfy the yearnings of a single human being on the earth.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The old Placer Mines, once filled with multiplied thousands of men of all lands, are now deserted, except by the patient, plodding Mongolian.  The eager hosts have passed away.  Their names have faded from the memories of men; but not so with</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE FOUR CLERGYMEN</P>
097.sgm:<P>And those who came after them, whose names I have given.  Most of them "rest from their labors, but their works do <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Preachers, 132; members, 7,500; number of churches, 97; value of church property, $700,000; number of Sabbath schools, 124; number of officers and teachers, 1,500; total number of scholars, 11,000.</P>
097.sgm:<P>METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH SOUTH.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Ministers, 58; local preachers, 70; number of members, 4,000; Sunday schools, 60; teachers, 370; scholars, 2,500; value of church property, estimated at $300,000.</P>
097.sgm:<P>CONGREGATIONALISTS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Ministers, 75; churches, 63; members, 4,000; church property, $400,000; Sabbath schools, 70; scholars, 6,500.</P>
097.sgm:<P>BAPTISTS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Total number of churches, 80; number of ministers, 70; membership, 4,000; church property, $350,000; Sunday schools, 70; scholars, 5,000.</P>
097.sgm:<P>PRESBYTERIANS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Ministers, 95; churches, 90; members, 5,500; Sunday school scholars, 7,500; church property, $800,000.</P>
097.sgm:<P>EPISCOPALIANS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>One Bishop; ministers, 36; number of churches, 40; members, 3,000; Sunday school teachers, 400; scholars, 4,000; church property, $350,000.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>UNITED BRETHREN.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Churches, 20; members, 300; preachers, 10; Sunday schools, 6; scholars, 300; church property, estimated at $40,000.</P>
097.sgm:<P>CHRISTIANS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Churches, 50; ministers 55; members, 3,700; church property, $50,000; Sunday schools, 50; scholars, 2,500.</P>
097.sgm:<P>CUMBERLAND PRESBYTERIANS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Churches, 40; ministers, 40; members, 1,600; Sunday schools, 25; scholars, 1,500; church property, $100,000.</P>
097.sgm:<P>ROMAN CATHOLICS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Churches, 90; chapels, 16; priests, regulars 51, seculars 70--total, 121; nominal Catholic population in the State, including Indians and Mexicans, 120,000.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The value of church property in San Francisco is $3,250,000; and in the State, perhaps, $4,000,000.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Such are the results in twenty-six years.  In 1847 there was not a Protestant church in California--never had been one.  There was not a public school--there never had been one.  There were no newspapers--nothing but the old Latin civilization, more than fifteen centuries old, engrafted on the ignorance and barbarism of the native races of the Pacific Coast.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Walter Colton built the first public school house in California, in Monterey, 1848.  He had brought here the ways of the Puritan Fathers, and resolved that, so far as he could accomplish it, the church and public school should go together; and they have done so.  It will be seen that there are in the Protestant churches named: ministers, 842; churches, 560; members, 33,600; Sunday schools, 575; scholars, 43,150; total, 77,325.  These represent a population of 500,000 souls, with an aggregate church property worth $2,290,000.Intimately and inseparably connected with these churches, ministers, Sunday schools and scholars, are the free schools of California, which are justly the pride of every intelligent, patriotic citizen.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>ANGLO-SAXON CIVILIZATION</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is now firmly rooted and in complete control all over this State.  No one denomination can lord it over another.  All are equal before the laws, and all must depend for success on their zeal for good morals, peace, charity and love.  There is no <HI REND="italics">toleration</HI>
097.sgm: here; there is absolute <HI REND="italics">religious freedom</HI>
097.sgm:<P>Such is my tribute to the memories of a few men who laid the foundations, broad, deep and strong, of the religious, social and educational structure of the Pacific slope, amid struggles for the auriferous and argentiferous metals never before witnessed by man, and which will, perhaps, never be repeated.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The memories of the just,<LB>Smell sweet, and blossom in the dust."<LB></HI>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Feb</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. XX.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">California Jockeyism--Celebrating Washington's Birthday--The Thirty Thousand Dollar Horse Race--A Plunered Crowd--Holiday Soldiering and its Ludicrous Features--A Gathering of Another Sort--The Union Veteran Legion</HI>
097.sgm:<P>MUCH stir and excitement and cheap display have characterized the past week, the occasion being the celebration of the birthday of the Father of his Country by the denizens of this coast, and a display of their zeal and devotion to the business of cool jockeyism, in a grand scoop of the uninitiated outsiders, who wished to make an exhibition of their newly acquired gains in betting on the horse-race, which came off near this city, on the "Bay View Fair Grounds," on the 22d inst.</P>
097.sgm:<P>THIS $30,000 RACE</P>
097.sgm:<P>Has been on the tapis ever since last fall.  It was gotten up by the Pacific Jockey Club, and was intended to be the grandest affair known to the turf of California.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Horse-racing, out here, is in great favor, and a rich man can hardly be respectable unless he owns some fast horses and is a frequent patron of the race course; as a result, very few rich men belong to or attend regularly any of the churches.  They lend their august presence, now and then, to flatter the ministers and please the women and children; but, as a rule of life, going to church on Sunday is with them hardly the thing.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Well, it was arranged that the long-talked of race should come off.  Horses were entered, and the papers were filled with all sorts of sporting jargon about the sale of pools and who were in, and all that kind of cheap advertising, for a week before the exciting event came off.  Finally came the day, and I am free to say that in no other city on this continent could such scenes have been witnessed as were developed here in this metropolis of the saintly Francis.  Do the memories of the older readers of <HI REND="italics">The Journal</HI>
097.sgm:<P>THE BAY VIEW TROTTING COURSE</P>
097.sgm:<P>Is 3 miles from the centre of the city, and to that all seemed to set their faces.  The hackmen and livery stable keepers, the common teamsters, the expressmen, the men with express and furniture wagons, the milkman, and every other human being owning a four-wheeled vehicle, turned out--except the undertakers.  I did not see them tendering to the crazy crowds the use of their hearses, although I think funerals were postponed until the next day.  The prices charged were in strict accord with the wild, foolish and unparalleled desire of people to see and bet on the race.  Edging my way up town, I innocently asked a portly and self-satisfied fellow-man, who seemed to be in command of a second-rate hack, how much he would charge to take me and my son out to the race and back.  "Well, sir," he replied, "we are charging big money to-day; but I will take you out and back for $40."  I expressed my obligation to him for being so reasonable with me, and passed on.  Next, I saw a fellow mounted on an old break-neck concern, that looked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The admission fee to the grounds was $2 for each man and woman, and an additional round sum for carriages and buggies.  Then, for places from which the race could be witnessed, there was an additional charge.  The members of the Bay View Fair Association fared no better than other people.  They and their families were taxed at the gate, on persons and carriages, like any one else, and fared no better in getting positions to witness the race.  The tolls levied on the anxious crowd, it is said, footed up $48,000, gold.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The purse was $30,000.  But here, again, jockeyism came in.  Two members of the club acted as judges of the race, and on the first heat declared three of the horses distanced, thus saving $9,000 to themselves and reducing the purse to $21,000.  The owners of the animals ruled off the track were simply furious, and a thousand men were ready to swear that all the horses at the end of the heat were inside the distance pole, but all to no purpose, as $9,000 must be saved.  Then came the contest between the favorite of the pools, "Rutherford," owned by Baldwin, the stock-broker, and "Foster," a nine year old horse owned by Mr. Little--an animal that no one had bet on up to the time of closing the first heat, except the owner and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>It is said that pool-dealers lost more than $100,000, and that Little, the owner of the old horse Foster, from Oregon, won, on pools that cost him a small sum, over $40,000.  The "squealing" has been terrific, and the curses against the jockey club have been far more energetic than elegant.  It is prophesied that, hereafter, no Eastern owners of horses will be green enough to let their stock cross the mountains.  I did not attend the race.  I do not know any one who won or lost, but my opinion is, that the whole thing was a fair average with transactions in mining stocks in California street, and a job put up, in the main, by the men who manage, in stock operations, to clean out all the foolish men and women in California.  Stocks had been flat for some time, and people were made to believe that the horse-race presented a better and surer basis for investments of small sums than the stocks.  They now will get together their small earnings, and go back to the street to be relieved of their pittances, by the fellows who set up the schemes of fraud, as usual.  The net proceeds of the race to the jockey club was about $28,000.  The private winnings of the members have not been reported, although it is hinted that they were largely interested in the immense amounts won.  The whole performance, taken together, was a singular tribute to the memory of Washington.  It was, however, <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
097.sgm:<P>THE NEXT NOTABLE EVENT,</P>
097.sgm:<P>On our February national holiday, was the parade of the National Guards of California.  There were some few pieces of artillery, several companies of infantry, and the balance was made up of line and staff officers.  I have been somewhat familiar, for many years, with the disproportion between the rank and file, and the line and staff officers of the regular army; and I have, I think, read something about it in the proceedings in Congress; I have, also, once in a while, seen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>In the evening of the 22d, I met the </P>
097.sgm:<P>UNION VETERAN LEGION.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The following invitation will explain:</P>
097.sgm:<P>HEADQUARTERS UNION VETERAN LEGION,</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">Feb</HI>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Hon. D. L. Pillips</HI>
097.sgm:<P>DEAR SIR--The Legion will bivouac in Charter Oak Hall, 771 Market street, on Tuesday evening, February 22, at 8 o'clock.  You are respectfully invited to be present.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Respectfully, Yours,</P>
097.sgm:<P>J. J. LYON,</P>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Colonel Commanding</HI>
097.sgm:<P>This Legion is composed of veterans who served in the Armies of the Tennessee, Cumberland and Virginia.  Its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>The hall was lined with the Stars and Stripes and the old insignia of the Union Army.  The tables were the style of the camp.  The dishes were tin, with tin cups.  The repast was "hard-tack," beans and coffee.  There were toasts, speeches, songs and stories of camp life.  After a time, "hard-tack," beans, tin platters and cups disappeared; then came table-cloths, a generous repast, wit and wine.  Intermingled was "the intelligent contraband," the "reconstructed rebel soldier," and finally, in all his gorgeous self-conceit, the unrepentent, unreconstructed, amnestied rebel-Democratic member of Congress from Georgia.  In a long letter, he announced what he and his fellows propose to do in the National Legislature.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In this Veteran Legion, there is no sham.  Among its members I discovered none of the Fourth of July "fuss and feathers" fellows of the morning parade.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The writer had the pleasure of responding to the toast, "The Loyal Press," after which the Veterans sang "Rally Round the Flag," as they used to do in their glorious marches over the rebel States.  The rendition of "John Brown's body lies mouldering in the grave, and his soul goes marching on," shook the building.  "The Legion" will make its mark in California.  There are no office-holders in it.  They are the grand, battle-scarred veterans of the Union armies, whose services the average politician and office-holder of this State don't want just now, but who, in a few months more, will be heard in unmistakable tones from San Diego to Del Norte.</P>
097.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., <HI REND="italics">Feb</HI>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER No. XXI.</HEAD>
097.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Conclusion of Our Pacific Coast Letters--The Departure from San Francisco--Cities, Towns, and Other Noticeable Points En Route--Incidents of the Return Journey--Narrow Escape from being Snow-bound in the Mountains--Cheerless Aspects of Mid-Winter Scenery--The Grand View at Sherman--Descent into the Fertile Plains of Nebraska, and Arrival in Illinois--Personals, Etc</HI>
097.sgm:<P>ON the morning of the 4th instant, with a few friends who came to tell us "good bye," we took our leave of San Francisco.  From the deck of the beautiful steamer <HI REND="italics">Oakland</HI>
097.sgm:<P>Midway of the bay are the great docks of the Central Pacific railroad.  Here we took the cars, and as we ran along, far out in the waters of the bay, we took a farewell view of the receding city--the great metropolis of the Pacific Coast, and the mistress of the trade and commerce of the mingled nations of the Orient and the Occident.  On our left lay the</P>
097.sgm:<P>BEAUTIFUL CITY OF OAKLAND,</P>
097.sgm:<P>Embowered in its groves of live oaks and gorgeous gardens.  Behind it, in solemn grandeur, lay the imposing Tamalpais mountains, while in front and to our left, elevated towards the clouds, were seen the grand outline of Mount Diablo.</P>
097.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>At Brooklyn, nine miles from the city, we bade farewell to the good friends who had risen so early to accompany us across the bay.  They returned by another train, while we set our faces to the distant East, and in a short time the city, the bay, Oakland--all--had passed from view.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The morning was one of the most charming that the human heart could desire.  The sky was cloudless, the sun shone in all his splendor, and the air was that of June.  The wheat stood in the fields a foot high, the grasses covered valley and plain, hill and mountain, while the flowers flashed in their red, blue and yellow sheen on all sides.  It was amid such scenes as these that we penetrated the low mountains that lie around the eastern point of San Francisco Bay.  The Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers were full, and had overflowed their banks, and appeared as little seas.  Hundreds of thousands of acres of the low lands were submerged, and roaring torrents of water were foaming and rushing in all directions.  Yet, along the narrow embankments and over the substantial trestle bridges, our overland train sped on until we reached the</P>
097.sgm:<P>CITY OF STOCKTON.</P>
097.sgm:<P>This city is situated near the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, and is one of the gems of California.  It was almost, if not entirely, surrounded by the waters of the two rivers, but was resting securely inside its well constructed dykes.  At 3 o'clock we reached</P>
097.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO.</P>
097.sgm:<P>It, too, was invested with the raging rivers, and was only protected from the recurrence of the disastrous submersions of former years by its broad and well constructed levees.  Here we were met by Hon. Stephen H. Phillips, of San Francisco, at one time Attorney-General of Massachusetts, and afterwards, for many years, Attorney-General of the Sandwich Islands.  He came to the station to say farewell.  He is no relative of ours, but to him and his estimable wife we are indebted for a generous, refined and unstinted hospitality and friendship, that can never be forgotten, and which contributed much to our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>From Sacramento, looking to the eastward, piled up towards the blue sky, and reflecting back the bright rays of the descending sun, could be seen</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Their snow-covered summits contrasted strongly with the world robed in green and blue and gold at our feet.  At 6 o'clock we were at Colfax Station, and in mid-winter.  A few miles east of Colfax we glided around the dizzy heights of Cape Horn, swept across a bridge so high as to make one giddy to look down, and we were struggling with the snows of the Sierras.</P>
097.sgm:<P>On the first of the month, the Hon. B. C. Cook, Solicitor in Chief of the Northwestern Railway Company, had returned to San Francisco from Santa Barbara, where he had taken his invalid wife and their daughter to remain until summer.  He had come across in the elegant officers' car of the railway company, accompanied by his family physician and his wife, who were returning with him.  He spent a portion of the day looking up the writer, to take him and his sick son home in his car; but we were up at Marysville, and failed to meet him.  Returning the next day, we found he had left.  The disappointment was very great in losing such an opportunity to get home, and have, at the same time, the company of such valued friends as Mr. Cook and Dr. Hard and his good wife.  We resolved, however, to leave on the fourth of the month, and did so, as already stated.</P>
097.sgm:<P>AT COLFAX,</P>
097.sgm:<P>The telegraph operator told us that Mr. Cook's car had been caught in a snow shed near Summit Station, and had lain there, with the train to which it was attached, more than 40 hours, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>OFF THE TRACK</P>
097.sgm:<P>At the mouth of a snow shed, and we were detained some hours.  The cold was intense, and one could hardly realize that 9 hours away there was green grass and flowers, and all the surroundings of early summer.  In the morning we breakfasted at Reno, in the State of Nevada, having, amid the fiercest winter, taken our final leave of the State of California.</P>
097.sgm:<P>For more than 600 miles, from Colfax to Ogden, the world was covered with snow.  The Humboldt range of mountains, lying along the river of that name, presented a dreary and wintry aspect; indeed, there was little through the whole distance across the Enclosed Basin, or Great American Desert, to interest any one.</P>
097.sgm:<P>AT OGDEN</P>
097.sgm:<P>We found Mr. Cook waiting for us.  We were soon transferred to his magnificent car, and prepared for the long run of nearly 1,600 miles to Chicago.  It is proper, here, and in this public manner, to acknowledge to Mr. Cook, so long known in Springfield as a Senator in the General Assembly, and for years a member of Congress from the Ottawa district, obligations which can never be discharged with money, and which will be remembered with gratitude while life shall last.  An invalid, long almost helpless, amid the chilling winds of winter and with so long a distance before him to be passed upon the cars, has, at best, a not very inviting prospect.  This was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>From Ogden we swept up Weber river, among the Mormon settlements, through the indescribable grandeur of the</P>
097.sgm:<P>WASATCH MOUNTAINS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>The world was covered with snow, and the whiteness of the crested mountains almost dazzled the eyes.  Passing from the Wasatch to the Rocky Mountains, the snow became less and less, and when we reached Sherman, the highest point between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, it had wholly disappeared.  At Sherman, 8,240 feet above the ocean, we tarried only long enough to get a glimpse of</P>
097.sgm:<P>LONG'S AND PIKE'S PEAKS,</P>
097.sgm:<P>Lying far off to the south-east, with their summits almost wholly resting in the clouds.  Here, again, as on going out, I was impressed with the sublime glory of these wonderful monuments of Infinite Power.  At no other place between the oceans is there such a sense of loneliness and utter desolation as in this portion of the Rocky Mountains.  I do not think that men will ever gather in large numbers in these barren, awful and desolate regions.  They are to remain forever as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>THE DESCENT</P>
097.sgm:<P>From Sherman to Cheyenne is very rapid.  Hills and plains and valleys were swiftly passed until we stood on the platform at the foot of the mountains, and looked back at them resting in their eternal silence and grandeur, piled up like dark clouds against the western horizon.</P>
097.sgm:<P>During the early part of the evening of the 7th we crossed the line of Wyoming Territory, and passed into</P>
097.sgm:<P>THE STATE OF NEBRASKA.</P>
097.sgm:<P>From this point we bade farewell to mountain peaks and crags and can&tilde;ons, to rocks and hills, sage brush and barren wastes, to treeless plains, to waterless rivers, to land without grass or green thing.  Here we saw old-fashioned prairie grass, and bright rippling streams that do not run dry in a few weeks; nay, more: we began to see corn fields and farms of the olden style.  In the morning we were in Central Nebraska, and the eye again rested on the happy homes, spread out in countless acres, of the brave pioneers of 1856.</P>
097.sgm:<P>In the evening we reached</P>
097.sgm:<P>OMAHA.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Our troubles about the transit from Omaha to the junction near Council Bluffs were not so great as when we came out, as we had our own car and could stay in it.  Still, we were detained two hours. </P>
097.sgm:<P>Our passage through Iowa was mostly in the night, and early on the morning of the 9th we crossed the Mississippi on the beautiful bridge that spans the river at Clinton, and again breathed the air of our native, grand, glorious</P>
097.sgm:<P>ILLINOIS.</P>
097.sgm:<P>Tell me not that, on this broad earth, there is a better or prouder home for man than this good old Sucker State.  From her soil spring the corn, the wheat, the oats, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Here, in this imperial State, are our gathered millions, with their cities, towns, villages and happy country homes.  Here are our churches, our school houses and all else pertaining to a refined, settled, permanent Christian civilization.  Who wants to exchange it for some place "Out West?"  "Go West, Young Man."  Well, go.  Penetrate all the mountains, valleys and can&tilde;ons; traverse the treeless, trackless plains; ramble from New Mexico to Northern Montana, and then from there penetrate Idaho, and go to Utah, Nevada and Arizona; ramble all over California, Oregon, Washington and Alaska, and at last you will come back and confess that Illinois is worth them all.</P>
097.sgm:<P>At 3:40 P.M. on the 9th, we reached Chicago--just six months to a day from the time we left for the Pacific Coast.  I need not say we were glad to again look upon the great commercial city of the Northwest.  Its very mud seemed precious in our eyes.  And then--again at home!  Our wanderings have been long, and sometimes our eyes were turned to the east, and we wondered when our feet should again pass the portals of our distant earthly resting place.  But here we are!</P>
097.sgm:<P>To the greeting of our friends, and for the cordial welcome back to the place of our appointed labor, for the words of sympathy and kindly regret in our failure to secure returning health for a son soon to pass away, we can only say, repressing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
097.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
097.sgm:<P>Here closes a series of letters, written often under circumstances and amid surroundings which precluded the possibility of their being even read after they were written, rendering them necessarily imperfect to a degree often, afterwards, most painfully felt.  And yet the many kindly words of commendation which have come from intelligent readers of <HI REND="italics">The Journal</HI>
097.sgm:<P>AT HOME, <HI REND="italics">March</HI>
098.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-098</TITLE>
098.sgm:<TITLE>Six months in California.  By J.G. Player-Frowd: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
098.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
098.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
098.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
098.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
098.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
098.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
098.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-858</LCCN>
098.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
098.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
098.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA.</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>LONDON: PRINTED BY</P>
098.sgm:<P>SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE</P>
098.sgm:<P>AND PARLIAMENT STREET</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>SIX MONTHS</P>
098.sgm:<P>IN</P>
098.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA.</P>
098.sgm:<P>BY</P>
098.sgm:<P>J. G. PLAYER-FROWD.</P>
098.sgm:<P>LONDON:</P>
098.sgm:<P>LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.</P>
098.sgm:<P>1872.</P>
098.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">All rights reserved</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
098.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>INTRODUCTION<HSEP>1<LB>SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>18<LB>SALT LAKE CITY<HSEP>36<LB>CALIFORNIA<HSEP>40<LB>GEOLOGY OF CALIFORNIA<HSEP>48<LB>THE GEYSERS<HSEP>58<LB>YESOMITE&acute; VALLEY<HSEP>68<LB>THE BIG TREES<HSEP>78<LB>MINES AND MINING<HSEP>85<LB>MINES IN THE STATE OF NEVADA<HSEP>109<LB>WHITE PINE MINES<HSEP>122<LB>QUICKSILVER, ETC.<HSEP>128<LB>AGRICULTURE IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>130<LB>WINE<HSEP>142<LB>SERICULTURE, BEET SUGAR, OLIVES, ETC.<HSEP>147<LB>ZOOLOGY OF CALIFORNIA<HSEP>152<LB>FLORA OF CALIFORNIA<HSEP>162</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<DIV><P><HI REND="italics">INTRODUCTION</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BEFORE the completion of the railroad from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans, the countries lying west of the Rocky Mountains were <HI REND="italics">terra incognita</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The number of travellers attracted to California during the last year has been very great, and I anticipate a large increase for the year to come.  My visit to that country has been so interesting, and attended with so much pleasure, that I have been induced to publish a slight sketch of my experiences, not only as a guide to the traveller, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>I have not sought to be abstruse, nor have I designed to enter into profound dissertations.  My idea has been to give a popular narrative of my excursion to the Far West, in the same way that one would describe a painting that he has seen and admired to a circle of his acquaintance.  Those who have been accustomed to the monotony and conventionalities of European travel, will find an immense relief and sense of freedom when roaming amongst the Sierras of California; and it cannot but be interesting to visit a state that, less than a quarter of a century since, was hardly known by name, and to-day takes her place as one of the powers of the American Continent.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I hardly need detail the trip across the Atlantic.  One voyage is so like another, and, taken in the aggregate, one set of passengers resembles another so very much, that the experience of one answers for all.  There was the usual aristocratic set, who sat at the captain's table and herded together in the daytime; the man of business continually passing between the Old World and the New; the mysterious passenger who appeared to be chased by a destiny; the lady who made her appearance four days after we had sailed, and who was saluted as a new acquaintance; in short, the various compounds and contrasts that make up the little world of an ocean-going steamer.  For the first three days it blew almost a gale of wind, but after that time we had a week of the most lovely weather possible, and our days, nay even a great part of our nights, were spent upon deck.  Nevertheless, we were not sorry when our captain said at lunch, `We shall sight Sandy Hook in about an hour's time.'  As may be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>As soon as the custom-house authorities had been disposed of, I drove to the Fifth Avenue Hotel, and, having made myself comfortable, took a carriage to survey the city.  The first thing that strikes a stranger in New York is the symmetry of the buildings and the evidences of great wealth, especially in that quarter of the town in which my hotel is situated--the houses being either built of what is there called brown stone, or else of brick cased with marble.  For my part I prefer the solid honesty of the former.  The more costly in appearance has but the semblance of a marble palace, for the exterior is but slabs of marble, and not the solid blocks that their form would imply.  Another remarkable thing about New York is the glaring newness that prevails everywhere.  The houses, the shops, the very pavement, look as though they had been all made by contract and finished within the hour.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Being anxious to visit California before the heat commenced, I lost no time in setting out for the `States' and Canada, and a most interesting and instructive tour I found it.  But travellers that have preceded me have so ably written on the above countries, that a repetition would only fatigue my readers.  I will at once endeavor to interest those to whom the unsurpassed scenery of the Sierra Nevada is yet new, by entering on a description of my journey to the Far West.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Painfully, and with much winding, we scale the Sierras.  At Truckee I bade adieu for a while to the Central Pacific Railroad, and took a carriage for Lake Tahoe, about twelve miles from the line.  A lovely drive, not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Be it understood, most civilised reader, that the word `road' must not suggest to your imagination anything macadamised, fenced, turnpiked, or subject to any of the impositions or conveniences of the king's highway.  No country seat with its well-ordered park, no half-way house with good accommodation for man and beast, grace its borders.  It is a track leading from one point to another, variable at the will of the driver, and its course depending somewhat on the season of the year.  During the dry months the bottoms of the comparatively level mountain gorges are followed, and your carriage winds its way amongst white water-washed sand drifts and huge boulders; but when the melted snows come rushing down the ravines, the trail seeks the higher ground, and digs its way along a wheel-worn shelf on the side of the hills.  In fact, the whole country is open to the traveller to choose his way; and the safest plan for the stranger is to follow what are termed `cattle tracks,' if they lead in the direction he would go.  The half wild cattle have an Indian instinct for the best and easiest path along the mountains, and, however tortuous their trail may appear, depend upon it the grade offers the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>By the advice of my host I had started at daybreak, and, as we drove along in the silence, I thought that I had never seen anything more beautiful.  The summits of the Sierras, or at least such of them as I could see at intervals through the great pine trees, which, on my setting out, had looked like phantom mountains, so shadowy and pale were they in the grey morn, became flushed with the rising sun.  It was not exactly rose colour, so much as a warm tint of light, a sense of brightness suffusing all around and penetrating even into the gloom of the forest.  At the same time the forest was dark by contrast.  And then arose a strange moaning, which swept over the tops of the great pine trees.  It was the morning breeze coming down from the great snow-clad peaks as a salutation to the sun; and the brightness came down the mountain sides, and suddenly we were bathed in the sunshine.  I got out of my carriage and walked among the trees on a most aromatic surface of dead pine leaves, soft and springy, the contributions of centuries.  Here and there one comes upon a fallen tree, the stem of which has probably been burnt by some traveller for his night's fire; but in general they stand straight as steeples, rigid as monuments, with only the gentle murmur of their upper branches as the early wind kisses them as it passes.  Below all is the stillness of death.</P>
098.sgm:<P>An opening in the trees, a turn in the road, and Lake Tahoe is before me.  Not a ripple on its surface.  Surrounded on every side by snow-clad hills, whose sides are covered with pine forests, all of which are reflected as in a mirror, it looks like a painted lake.  There is a sense of mystery in its unfathomable depths, a feeling of awe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Utilitarianism has even invaded this the heart of the Sierra Nevada.  A project is on foot to bring the water of Lake Tahoe into San Francisco, two hundred and sixty miles off.  A remarkably enterprising engineer, named Von Schmidt, who has already brought the present supply of water to that city, finding that it was not sufficient in view of the rapidly increasing population, cast his eyes to this distant but unfailing reservoir, and determined to bring it to the borders of the Pacific, distributing its waters to the different mining camps and towns in its passage to the sea.  The river Truckee flows into and out of the lake, giving two hundred millions of gallons per diem.</P>
098.sgm:<P>But that was not all.  A tunnel some five miles long was necessary, and the fertile brain of the engineer cast about for the cheapest way of making it.  He went over to the Central Pacific.  He saw that, by bringing their line through his tunnel, the company would save eight miles in distance and one thousand feet in elevation, and dispense with twenty miles of snow sheds, which is more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>There are two or three smaller lakes connected with Lake Tahoe, forming a chain unsurpassed in beauty, and a little steamer plies over its calm surface, landing picnic parties at different points, and taking them up again in the evening back to the hotel.  The old stage road to Virginia city skirted the borders of the lake, but the rail has done away with that mode of travelling.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I left Lake Tahoe and its comfortable inn with regret.  One could spend a month there most delightfully.  The most picturesque scenery; excursions in all directions; shooting, from grizzly bear to the mountain quail; lake fishing and river fishing; mining, if that may be called an amusement; in short, the perfect enjoyment of purely natural scenery.  Of course the mode of locomotion must be either on foot or on horse-back, and the latter with the Californian saddle.  An English saddle is all very well on a smooth road, or when crossing the plains; but when you have to go down ravines or up hills at an angle of forty-five degrees, the high peak fore and aft is not only a comfort but a necessity.  I remember the distress of one obstinate Briton, who persisted in retaining his English pigskin.  At one time he was clinging for dear life to his horse's mane, at another his horse was being nearly thrown down by all the weight being on his shoulders.  And yet the first experience <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Once more in train, and, during the next fourteen miles, we ascend nearly twelve hundred feet.  Two immensely powerful engines perform the arduous task, until at length we reach Summit Station, seven thousand and seventeen feet above the sea, and only two hundred and forty miles from San Francisco.  Here we pass through a railroad construction peculiar to the Central Pacific <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:line, I mean the <HI REND="italics">snow-sheds</HI>
098.sgm:.  Let the reader picture to himself a long gallery composed of immensely strong uprights of timber and great joists of pine wood, the whole arched Gothic fashion, with here and there small openings, through which a glorious panorama is seen for an instant as the train roars its way along.  Let him fancy these in winter, when the storm-king reigns among the Sierras, when the fierce snow-drifts come like avalanches down the sides of the mountains, and these massive wooden shields groan, and creak, and bend under the weight of the superincumbent snow, as the mighty wind drives it over the roof; and fancy the great, screeching engines, with the line of carriages attached, thundering through all this, and rivalling the roar of the elements outside, and then he will understand the grandeur of peril as well as the might of engineering skill to remedy it.  But it is not only the storm element that is to be dreaded in these snow galleries.  A burning coal from the engine, a careless watchman, or, worse still, the torch of the incendiary, will easily set fire to the resinous pine timber.  The nature of the arched sheds creates a draft, the wind sweeps in as to a furnace, and there is the roaring of great flames until the whole is consumed.  Suppose that the fire begins in the centre.  The switch-man, only intent upon watching for the coming train, signals `all right,' in it dashes, and the newspapers chronicle `awful catastrophe at the snow-sheds.'  Much depends upon the nerve of the engineer.  On one occasion the express train entered the wooden aisles; on arriving near the end the driver saw that they were on fire.  To check the train would be to risk its stopping in the flames.  He saw that the fire had only just commenced; he clapped on all the steam he possibly could; he and the stoker wrapped their blankets around their heads, and they dashed through the blinding smoke and flame.  It is exceedingly uncomfortable to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>But the summit is passed, and all the rivers and streams flow westward.  In six miles we have descended five hundred feet.  The pace is awful; but the scenery, fitfully snatched from the mouths of tunnels, or on emerging from deep cuttings, is grand in the extreme.  We round Cape Horn, as it is called; we are shown the head waters of the American river, more than two hundred miles from its mouth; we wind our way through the Giant's Gap, through the deep Bloomer Cut; we go across Placer County, El Dorado County, Gold Run, Emigrant Gap, all speaking of the land of promise we were fast approaching.  Ever descending the valley of the Sacramento, which, at Auburn, is only thirteen hundred feet high, we at length cross the bridge over the American river, and in three miles more are in Sacramento.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Sacramento is the capital of California.  Here, at present, are held the sessions of the legislature; here the Supreme Court has its seat.  The town is composed of hotels, lawyers' offices, boarding-houses, and bar-rooms.  In the early days of California, Sacramento owed its importance to its being the head of navigation from San Francisco.  It is situated at the junction of the American and Sacramento rivers, into the former of which the Feather river empties itself some few miles further up.  All the supplies for the northern mines of California were formerly sent, either by steamer or sailing vessel, from San Francisco to Sacramento, whence they were distributed, by immense waggons or on pack mules, all over the interior.  Smaller steamers likewise ascended the Feather river as far as Marysville, and the Sacramento as far as Red Bluffs.  The principal streets were filled, during the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:day, with those immense receptacles for inland freight, the prairie schooners, as they were called, some of them drawn by eight horses.  The day was spent in loading them by the different storekeepers, or freight agents for the San Francisco houses, and towards evening they departed with their several cargoes, generally going some four or five miles the first night, in order to be able to turn out their animals to pasture.  For slow freight ox-teams were used, which crawled over the surface of the country to the monotonous sound of bells hung round the necks of the cattle.  It was a busy scene, towards evening, to see Sacramento pouring forth its varied articles of merchandise to supply the hard-working gold-producer.  It was like the post-office at St. Martin's-le-Grand in the palmy days of mail-coaches.  Indeed, from Sacramento many very crack stages started daily, with their six horses, driven by Western men, who would go down the mountain roads full gallop, and, unless anything broke, would take you safely a long way up the opposite slope without hardly slackening their speed.  The Western stage-driver is <HI REND="italics">sui generis</HI>
098.sgm:<P>To return to Sacramento.  Notwithstanding that its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:situation was execrable, that the city was annually overflowed, that a levee was built around it at a great expense, which imperfectly kept out the water, it continued, for many years, to be the most prosperous city outside of San Francisco.  It was made the state capital in the place of deserted Benicia.  Her merchants grew rich; beautiful houses and gardens, where the soil was an exhaustless alluvium, and the rivers irrigated almost to excess; fruits and flowers of wondrous size and beauty--the City of the Plains, as it was called, was a delightful residence.  The tropical heat was tempered by the evening breeze, which blew from the Sierras, whose snowy peaks could be seen rearing their heads miles and miles away; but there came a check to this prosperity.  In 1861-2 the great flood came.  From Shasta Buttes to the bay of San Francisco was a sea of turbid fresh water.  The broad tule<ANCHOR ID="ni-1">*</ANCHOR>
098.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-1">Bulrush.</NOTE>
098.sgm:<P>At length the waters subsided, but a great part of the land in Sacramento Valley was irretrievably ruined.  The waters had brought down a fine white sand or silt, partly from the mines, partly by denudation, which covered the fertile soil to the depth of some feet.  All the fine gardens surrounding Sacramento were destroyed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The railway then came to Sacramento.  The Central Pacific Railroad Company was inaugurated at that place.  Messrs. Huntington and Crocker were merchants there.  Mr. Stanford, the president of the company, was a Sacramento lawyer and governor of the state of California, and at the present moment Sacramento is virtually the terminus.  But it has changed the nature of the city.  It is no longer the depo&circ;t for the northern mines.  No more heavily laden teams block up the streets.  The train drops the goods at every station as it passes over the line, and the storekeeper of the interior now sends his orders direct to Chicago or San Francisco.  Although the nature of the trade of Sacramento is changed, it is still a flourishing town, and the presence of senators, politicians, judges, lawyers, and the thousand and one hangers-on of the legislature or judiciary, tends to increase its importance.  Some fine houses belonging to railway magnates are rising up.  The capitol, which has been building for the last ten years, is an imposing structure though unfinished.  The arrival and departure of trains creates a certain bustle; and the town is prettily laid out with trees planted on each side of many of the streets.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I was amused at noticing the number of idlers (loafers they term them here) who hung about the station and hotels to stare at passengers.  And they were the same people every day.  Their business in life appeared to be scanning strangers' countenances, or deciphering the names on their luggage.  Having seen the last traveller disposed of, they sigh with a sense of relief, as if they had discharged a painful duty, and relapse into a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>There are two ways of going from Sacramento to San Francisco--the one by a somewhat circuitous route by rail, and the other by steamer to Sacramento and along the bay.  Not being pressed for time,  I chose the latter, and had no reason to regret my choice.  We left the wharf on a lovely afternoon at two o'clock.  The steamer was very large, with a saloon its entire length, and cabins or state rooms, as they are there called, on each side looking out on the water.  The river was high and very muddy, owing to the immense quantity of matter continually pouring into it from the northern mines, more especially since the system of hydraulic sluicing has been generally adopted.  The banks of the river are low and lined with white oak, which, however graceful and beautiful in foliage it may be, is of itself useless as timber, and is only felled for firewood.  In many places the stream had overflown its banks, and had cut a channel for itself across a bend of the river, making a saving of some miles, so we had the strange spectacle of our steamer quietly leaving the stream, and taking a kind of steeplechase over the country.  The river gradually widened until we arrived at Rio Vista, where we took on board hundreds of salmon destined for the San Francisco market.  It was the season just then, and great silvery salmon were piled upon the deck in Billingsgate profusion.  The fishermen get from two to three pence by the pound from the market dealers.  There are many species of salmon in California.  One kind is very peculiar, having a snout or projecting upper jaw, giving one the idea that it shovels in the mud for its food.  This sort <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Continuing our voyage through a labyrinth of channels, the Sacramento joins the river San Joaquim, which drains the southern water-shed of California.  By reference to a map of the country, it will be seen that the Sierra Nevadas join the coast range of mountains at a point near Mount Shasta, thence forming an arc southwards, until the two ranges again come together at San Bernardino in the lower part of California.  Thus it will be seen that these two ranges of mountains, namely, the coast range and the Sierra Nevada, enclose an area five hundred miles in length, by about two hundred in width.  Now the whole of the waters that flow from the eastern slope of the former and the western of the latter, find their way into this immense basin, the only outlet of which is the Golden Gate, and the two rivers that act as conduits are the river Sacramento from the north, and the San Joaquim, which drains the southern portion of the state.  When this is considered, the great flood before described is easily comprehended.</P>
098.sgm:<P>We now come to some small bays and then steam through a narrow channel, called the Straits of Carquinez.  The Indians have a tradition, that an immense lake formerly stretched away inland, the waters of which burst their way into the bay of San Francisco, which again broke into the Pacific by the Golden Gate.  It is certainly true that the geological construction of each side of the strait is the same, and it has more the appearance of having been cut by engineering skill than by nature.  Fresh water shells are likewise found high up the banks, as well as distinctly defined beaches.  Further on we arrive at Mare Island, which is the Sheerness of California.  Here are lying some men-of-war and monitors, and there is a dry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>A curve in the course of the beautiful waters, and we see the sun sinking into the bosom of the broad Pacific, as we gaze through the portals of the Golden Gate.</P>
098.sgm:<P>As the darkness increased the lighthouse on the fort of Alcatraz Island threw its quivering gleam over the surface of the waters.  Immediately before us lights were twinkling from ships' masts, and long straight lines of lamps climbed up a conical hill, and small steamers shot across our path like meteors, with their cabins brilliant with light.  There was a sound of bells, the shrill whistle of the engine, the rattling of many carriages, the gleam of a red light, and we were gliding along the side of a pier covered with a sea of anxious faces.  Hardly had we stopped than the owners of these faces were upon us.  They boarded us like pirates, and then arose a Babel of cries, among which I could distinguish as follows: `Who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>It was impossible to resist.  I resigned myself to the first runner that captured me.  I was stunned and bewildered, and looked upon him as a deliverer.  I begged him to take me out of the din, and protect me as far as the Grand Hotel.  `All right, sir.'  `Here, Bill,' to a man who emerged from the confusion of sounds; `give him your check, sir, and he'll look after your baggage.  Come this way.'  I stumbled down a gangway following my guide, who elbowed his way through the crowd, and waited, wondering whether I had done wisely in trusting the check for my baggage to a stranger.  However, although I was overcharged most egregiously, I got safely to the hotel with all my traps; and having gone through the ceremony of inscribing my name, and subjecting myself to the criticism of a young man with a profusion of shirt-bosom and diamond pin, upon whose decision depended my fate, whether I was to mount one pair of stairs or five, I found myself in a comfortable room not too high, showing me the precise estimate the hotel manager had of me.</P>
098.sgm:<P>At length, I said to myself, I am in San Francisco, the city of which more contradictory reports have reached England than of any other in the world: at one time represented as a place to shun, inhabited by the scum of population; and again, by other writers, as the paradise of the poor man, where wealth could be acquired without capital, and competence without too great a struggle--where rich and poor were regarded alike--where the climate was Italian, and the inhabitants generous, liberal, and orderly.  Now I can judge for myself.</P>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">SAN FRANCISCO</HI>
098.sgm:<P>FEW cities in the world are more favourably situated, in a commercial point of view, than San Francisco, and she may well lay claim to the proud title of the Queen City of the Pacific. From the Columbia river in the north to Valparaiso in the south, with the somewhat doubtful exception of San Diego, the bay of San Francisco is the only harbour along the whole line of coast.  There are ports where vessels can enter and load, or discharge cargo, but no harbour where they can lie in safety for months.  The navies of the whole world can find room here.  The entrance through the Golden Gate, which is rather more than one mile wide at its narrowest part, is deep and easy of navigation.  The bay of San Francisco proper, that is to say, not including San Pablo and Suisun bays, averages eight miles wide, and is fifty miles long.  The whole of its eastern shore is lined with ranches, or farms, and villages.  The town of Oakland is immediately opposite San Francisco, and is the residence of her wealthy merchants, whose beautiful houses and grounds embellish this city of oaks.</P>
098.sgm:<P>San Francisco itself is built on a sandy peninsula.  Nature having endowed it with the advantage of geographical position, refused it the gift of beauty.  A range of low sandy dunes stretches from the ocean to the shores of the bay.  A few scrub oaks, whose dwarfed and knotted branches all point away from the prevailing west wind, are to be met with at rare intervals.  The <HI REND="italics">Ceonothus</HI>
098.sgm:, a species of privet, is the only indigenous shrub that has any pretensions to beauty; and the general view outside <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>In 1830 a few adobe huts were scattered along the borders of the bay, and two or three times a year small trading vessels entered the port for the purpose of bartering manufactured goods for hides or peltry.  This was the signal for a general jollification.  It soon became known that a ship had arrived at Yerba Buena, as San Francisco was then called, for there were plenty of Indians in those days, and the skipper encouraged them to spread the news over the inhabited part of that section of the country, which extended from San Jose&acute; south to about Vallejo north.  The Spaniards flocked to the town, canoes laden with hides skimmed over the bay; caballeros came galloping in from all parts.  There was the owner of leagues of land under some old Mexican grant, with countless herds of cattle, proud of the blood of Old Spain that flowed in his veins, with his silver-mounted saddle and silver buttons down his open.  There were the Vaqueros, half-Indian, but the boldest riders in the country.  Then the old Padres came to hear the last news from the world from which they were separated by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Such then was San Francisco in the early days.  About 1835 the Hudson's Bay Company founded an agency here, and their representative built a pretty house, with a garden and stream of water flowing through it, in what is now the centre of the city, without a trace left of the running water.</P>
098.sgm:<P>In 1850 the effect of the gold mines was fully felt, and San Francisco became a corporate city.  The rush had been immense; the prices of building material, furniture, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>In 1860 the population of San Francisco barely reached 70,000.  In 1870 the population, after careful research, and in consequence of considerable discussion on the subject, was found to be 172,750 souls, of whom 8,000 are transient; that is to say, that number enters and leaves San Francisco daily; 9,000 are Chinese, and 2,000 are coloured.</P>
098.sgm:<P>It is questionable whether the year 1870 has seen any advance in population over 1869 as the following statistics will tend to prove:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>The excess of arrivals of passengers over departures was, in 1869 24,402</P>
098.sgm:<P>In 1870 it was only<HSEP>15,079</P>
098.sgm:<P>The sales of real estates in 1869 amounted to<HSEP>$29,937,717</P>
098.sgm:<P>"  in 1870  "<HSEP>$15,630,272</P>
098.sgm:<P>The exports of treasure in 1869 were<HSEP>$37,287,117</P>
098.sgm:<P>"  in 1870 "<HSEP>$32,983,140</P>
098.sgm:<P>The sales of mining and other stocks in 1869 were<HSEP>$69,089,731</P>
098.sgm:<P>"  in 1870 were<HSEP>$51,186,450</P>
098.sgm:<P>The greater excess of arrivals over departures in the one year, joined to the larger business transactions that took place in the like respective times, leads me to think that San Francisco has rather lost than gained in population for the last three years.  In proportion to her loss, however, has been the gain of the interior towns; many of which, owing to the increased facilities afforded by the opening up of railroads, have suddenly sprung up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The plan of San Francisco was laid out by an Irish engineer called Jasper O'Farrell and an American of the name of Hoadley.  At that time nothing but the north side of the town was inhabited.  It was the nearest to the Golden Gate.  It was the quarter where the wharves were, at which all the ships discharged their cargoes.  The warehouses for the storage of goods, such as they were, all clustered together at that corner.  These men, to whom was entrusted the arrangement of the streets of a future great city, had no ken to pierce beyond the actual present, and made their plans regardless either of traffic or population.  Every street is too narrow, with the exception of those that the exigency of the case caused to be subsequently enlarged; and the consequence has been, that some streets are almost abandoned, others are inconveniently crowded, whilst the principal thoroughfare had to be made nearly double its width by buying the property on one side, and tearing it down to make way for the pavement.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Again, the arrangement of streets running parallel and at right angles to one another was insisted on.  This is all very well upon a plane surface, but San Francisco rejoices in beautiful little hills, one of which, Telegraph Hill, is, as its name imports, the beacon of the city.  It stands like a sentinel at one corner, and the first good dwelling-houses were built on its sheltered sides.  But no advantage was to be taken of the natural undulations of the land, no beautiful terraces were to be laid out, with the streets winding around the hills in gradual approach to their summits, no amphitheatre with its long sweep of dwelling-houses looking over the moving waters.  Nothing of the sort; the streets must all go in straight lines from north to south and from east to west; the plan <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The northern and north-western part of San Francisco is bordered on each side by deep water.  The steep bluff called Telegraph Hill, before-mentioned, is only adapted for dwelling-houses, and as such was used in the early days.  This arbitrary adoption of straight streets drove the property owners into the plains that run southward, or left them the alternative to live perched on a rock, with a precipice in front of their houses made by the grading of the street.  Nay, even that poor privilege was at length denied them.  They were obliged by enactment to bring their lots to the established grade, as well as to pay <HI REND="italics">pro rata&circ;</HI>
098.sgm: for what was termed the <HI REND="italics">improvements</HI>
098.sgm:<P>This cutting away of Telegraph Hill--this `whittling,' if I may so term it, of the face of nature--has gone on till now the poor maimed elevation is reduced to a point, like a badly scraped slate-pencil, great quarries and scars all round; streets that arrive from the south and stop abruptly at a wall of rock that neither man nor beast can scale; the prosecution of the work of levelling stopped on account of the enormous expense, which neither the corporation nor the property owners will incur.  There it stands, a monument of the folly of attempting to do that at San Francisco which is so successful and convenient at Chicago, and a warning to those who attempt to improve natural scenery.</P>
098.sgm:<P>From the base of Telegraph Hill, and of course having imaginary lines running straight over it, lead in parallel lines the two principal streets of San Francisco, namely, Montgomery and Kearney Streets.  The former, at this present time the principal business street, although being rapidly superseded by California Street which crosses it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:about midway; the latter being the thoroughfare where the best shops are situated.  For years Montgomery Street kept its supremacy over all.  The banks, the hotels, the shops, the theatres, the restaurants, the clubs, all lined its sides.  Its thoroughfares were crowded; the rents were four times that of houses or buildings in any other street, until at length it fell from its greatness.  An important move was decided upon.  It was determined to widen Kearney Street its entire length, and thus relieve Montgomery Street of the discomfort of over-crowding.  Some two or three millions of dollars had to be expended, so an act of legislature was obtained, and a committee appointed to assess what those whose property was to be taken should receive, and how much those on the other side of the street who derived the benefit should pay; for, be it understood, only one side of the street was pulled down to widen it.  In a year's time, after the adjustment was made, the new side of Kearney Street was a line of the finest buildings in the city, the whole laid with wooden blocks and a broad pavement of asphalt.  The shops, or stores as they are called here, are as magnificent as in European capitals; they are brilliantly lighted at night, and the whole thoroughfare is crowded in the evening.  Montgomery Street was found too narrow, and the northern half of it, that is, from Telegraph Hill to California Street, gradually fell away from its pristine superiority.  The shops began to be `To Let;' or, if a new tenant came, it was for an inferior <HI REND="italics">genre</HI>
098.sgm:<P>But Montgomery Street, on the other side of California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:Street, presents quite a different appearance.  Here are the great hotels, as the Occidental, the Lick House, the Cosmopolitan, the Russ House, and the Grand Hotel, all of them covering acres of ground, and around them are clustered some of the best shops in San Francisco.  Here are the silversmiths, some of the principal haberdashers, tailors; the traffic being drawn away by its prosperous neighbour, this part of the street is most agreeable to stroll in, especially as the <HI REND="italics">entre&acute;e</HI>
098.sgm:<P>California Street, which I have already referred to, is the street of wealth.  Here are the large banks and incorporated bodies, the richest merchants and the gaudiest insurance offices, for even here they use the meretricious attraction of florid architecture.  Here also is the Exchange, a very handsome building, and the Stock Exchange, which, true to its traditions, is a brawling assemblage in a large room up a court.  Here also are the two principal clubs, the Union, composed chiefly of gentlemen in business; the other, the Pacific, of lawyers and professional men.  The one is Republican in politics, the other Democratic, with a lingering perfume of Secession about its walls.  Higher up the street are the Roman Catholic and Protestant cathedrals; whilst standing aloof from the two, like a schism, is the Independent or Calvinist church.  Beyond this the street is steep and sandy, although there are some good houses commanding fine views.</P>
098.sgm:<P>These three are the principal streets of what I will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The history of the Market Street Railroad, as it was called, the first street railroad built in San Francisco, and its effects upon property may not be uninteresting as a phase of California fortunes.  In 1851 a French merchant, whom I will call Monsieur P., who had, up to that time, not been very fortunate in his business, went to Paris to make arrangements with his creditors.  He left San Francisco at the time of its greatest excitement, when building was going on as rapidly as labour and capital would allow--when the harbour was full of ships and the mines full of their sailors--when gold flowed in from the interior, and flooded out eastward--when interest was from six to ten per cent. per month, and the capitalists were literally coining money, for the scarcity of coin caused many of the banks to issue gold pieces of the nominal value of five and ten dollars.  Monsieur P. saw the savings of his countrymen invested at home and receiving a yearly interest only equal to that paid monthly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:in California.  He was a man of extraordinary activity, both mentally and bodily, and published everywhere in France that he was going back to the land of gold, and would invest any moneys entrusted to him, giving dividends at certain periods.  The people, especially the middle and lower classes, ever eager to increase their incomes, subscribed to the new scheme; not at first to any great extent; but when, at the end of the year, dividends to the amount of twenty-five per cent. had been paid, the success of the scheme was assured.  Those who had hitherto been reluctant were now eager, the timid became bold, and the scoffers the most ardent subscribers.  The office in Paris was besieged by crowds of small shopkeepers with their earnings, by the workpeople with their savings, but above all by the demi-monde as well as the monde not even demi, who went into the scheme with all the eagerness of a woman and the persistence of a gambler.  So it happened that, in the year of grace 1853, Monsieur P. found himself at the head of between seven and eight millions of dollars, owning some of the finest property in the city, bringing in enormous rents, and also having bought by the acre almost all the unimproved land lying south and southwest of the city.  His foresight was remarkable; he knew that San Francisco must stretch out in that direction, his only error being as to the time it would take.  I may as well remark, <HI REND="italics">en passant</HI>
098.sgm:<P>But, like many a great genius, he had gone too far.  Notwithstanding the accumulation of his capital, for he had been receiving fifty per cent. and paying only twenty-five per annum, he had overtasked himself.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:dark days of 1856-7 came.  Other capital had flowed into the country, and many other buildings had gone up.  The ominous words to a landlord, ` <HI REND="italics">To Let</HI>
098.sgm: ', began to show themselves too often.  Tenants refused any longer to pay the exorbitant rents with which they had been burdened.  For the past three years all branches of commerce were overdone, and real estate went down like a shot.  The hundreds and hundreds of thousands invested in outside lands brought in nothing but expense; the immense mining ditches, in which Monsieur P. was largely interested, were (I do not mean the pun) a continual drain; litigation for disputed titles to, or obtaining United States patents for, Spanish grants of property, cost enormous sums, so the consequence was there was no dividend.  In vain was the state of the matter laid before the depositors; it was no use assuring them that the affairs would more than right themselves; the fact of no dividend, joined to the mistrust of California prevailing all over Europe, created a panic, and they clamoured for their capital.  Little by little the fine city property melted away, partly through mortgages, but chiefly by sales, the largest purchaser being the San Francisco agent of a great Parisian banker.  All was sacrificed to satisfy the creditors, until at length nothing available was left.  Then it was that Monsieur P. did the only thing that lay in his power.  To use a Californian phrase, `he shut down on his liabilities;' that is to say, he refused to pay any more, either principal or interest, until he chose.  Everything tangible here was made over to other names, and Monsieur P. sat down with his faith in the future unabated.  Naturally, the people on the other side were furious, the more so that, as long as Monsieur P. remained away from  France, they were utterly powerless.  Commissions were sent out, powers of attorney the most stringent were forwarded, but all to no purpose.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>As I said, Market Street was opened; for nearly half its length it ran through immense tracts belonging to Monsieur P., but a waste of sand lay between them and the city.  His fertile brain suggested the only way of making them immediately available, and that was by building a railroad.  With his usual energy he set to work, interested other energetic men with himself, obtained an act of the legislature, and in a short time a line drawn by steam-power was running through his property.  This property increased a thousand-fold, and that which had been bought for two and a half to five dollars an acre, sold for two and three hundred dollars the lot of twenty feet by a hundred.  Monsieur P. organised the system of homesteads, whereby, by the payment of a monthly sum, a poor man can acquire a lot.  It is true he pays dear for the convenience, but it is a convenience nevertheless.  To-day many streets are running parallel with Market Street, all going through the estate, four of them having horse cars.  A large town has sprung up and Monsieur P. is again a millionaire.  I understand that through his agents he has bought up the greater part of his indebtedness, at a comparatively small percentage, and devotes a large portion of his income to a liquidation of the rest, so that he will soon be free from debt with an immense fortune.  He is an exceedingly liberal gentleman, with the finest gallery of paintings in San Francisco.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The whole of the town south of Market Street is one entire plain, in the centre of which rises a large sugar bakery, built by an Englishman of the name of Gordon.  He had established a manufactory on a small scale, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The California Mint is a mean little building in a dirty little street, but a large handsome edifice is rising up outside the town.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The theatres of San Francisco are very good, considering the youth of the city and its distance from any other.  There are only two that can have any pretensions to rank as `Theatre Royal'--the Californian and the Metropolitan.  The first is the most fashionable, but the acoustic arrangements are defective, and the interior is the most extraordinary thing I ever saw.  The boxes, that is, the private boxes, are like martlets' nests in the rock, and open on the walls in all directions without the least regard to regularity.  Then there is a kind of immense basket or corbeille, that is fastened against the wall; in fact there are two, one on each side of the house; these are called family boxes and hold about twelve.  They are generally filled with the <HI REND="italics">e&acute;lite</HI>
098.sgm: of the society; and when I saw, as I once did, two mothers with their brood of daughters occupying them, and the male scions a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The Metropolitan, although the oldest theatre in San Francisco, is the best constructed; but it is at the wrong end of the town, and only let to wandering troupes.  They had good French Ope&acute;ra Bouffe when I was there; but the theatre was dirty, and looked as though it didn't pay the proprietors, which I believe is the case.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The other theatres are minor, being of the nigger minstrel and melodeon order, where bad jokes, songs and dances, none of them over-refined nor chaste, are nightly retailed to crowds of men.  The places are redolent of bad cigars, stale pipes, staler coats, and unwashed mankind.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The Chinese theatre is unique.  The dresses are of barbaric splendour, the music is still more barbarous, being discordant even to a sense of pain; the plot is incomprehensible, but the attention of the audience is intense.</P>
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098.sgm:<P>The number of churches in San Francisco implies either great devotion, or immense necessity for prayer.  In an area of a quarter of a mile square I counted nine churches, all of different denominations or schisms.  There was Trinity with its Low Church tenets; St. James, strong in vestments and chaunted service; the synagogue El Emanuel, the new Jewish branch that would fain, for convenience and gain, change the Sabbath to Sunday.  It is the most beautifully finished temple inside in this place.  Near is the temple of the old Jews.  Then Dr. Stone's new church, strong in its Calvinism, built of the English patent artificial stone, and a very pretty church it is, with strange American devices of roof architecture, self-supporting.  There are two Swedenborgian tabernacles, and one coloured church as it is called, the tint referring of course to the worshippers.  The same prevails to a less extent all over the city.  The Catholics, of course, are everywhere and very rich; fat lands have descended to them from the Spaniards and Mexicans; fat revenues flow to them now from the Irish.  I think that one reason of the number of churches is this, the richness of the land.  There are hardly any poor, numerically speaking, and consequently the ministers of every denomination flocked here.  Their congregations subscribed, built them churches, endowed them with annual stipends, and the profession prospered exceedingly.  Then was seen the evil of voluntary election by the congregation, for partisanship arose, from partisanship sprang discord and canvassing as at a political strife.  Finally, the defeated party marched off with their champion, built him a new church, and the old story began again.  Many people are so rich and proud that they can afford the luxury of having a church under their control like a pocket borough.  As for the parson, unless he is very superior, he is quite secondary; it is the vestry which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>A section of the eastern front of the city is almost entirely devoted to iron foundries.  It is curious to walk among them and note the various implements and machinery used in gold mining.  Here the visitors see ponderous machines for crushing quartz; there again the more delicate amalgamator for thoroughly mixing the pulp or ground quartz with quicksilver.  Of this latter the machines are most numerous, and every foundry has the exclusive manufacture of one or more patents for that purpose.  So far as I can learn, not one had arrived at the solution of the great problem, How to extract all the gold?  First of all, the quartz should be reduced to an impalpable powder, and then thoroughly mixed with the quicksilver.  Every one will tell you that he has arrived at that desideratum, but his neighbour will probably tell you the truth about him.</P>
098.sgm:<P>There are other factories in San Francisco, but the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>We arrived at length at Omaha, the capital of the state of Nebraska, which is an uninteresting town, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">SALT LAKE CITY</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ON arriving at Ogden, you change trains to proceed to Salt Lake City.  The scenery to the city of the Saints is very wild and barren; and no wonder that the Mormons, in choosing this spot, considered themselves safe from any inquisitorial traveller; and how little did Brigham Young think that, in electing this spot as a resting-place for his people, in a few years he should draw down the strong arm of the law, and be forced to obey and observe the rules and restraints of a country he affected to despise!  What a shadow has now been cast over the dreams of this arch humbug!  How great are the mighty fallen!  His hold on his ignorant followers is fast passing away, and in a few years this impostor and his benighted followers will be a thing of the past.</P>
098.sgm:<P>What is termed `Salt Lake City' is nothing but some few streets of wooden houses, two or three hotels, the tabernacle, and the residence of Brigham Young, remarkable only for the picturesque manner in which the grounds around the residence are laid out.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Being curious to observe how the Mormons concluded their religious services, and happening to be there on the Sabbath, I attended the tabernacle--a very large edifice resembling a gigantic egg in form, the interior very gloomy, with wooden benches; and, in front of the organ, three rows of benches where the apostles sit.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The great feature of this building is the ease with which a very large congregation can make its exit.  The organ, a remarkably fine-toned instrument, is the larges in the States.</P>
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098.sgm:<P>The sermon was preached by an individual who evidently had received little or no education, and whose principal topic from beginning to end was abuse of every other sect but his own.  The `blessing' was bestowed by John Young, eldest son of Brigham, an oleaginous-looking subject, who seemed to thrive much on the creature comforts of this world.</P>
098.sgm:<P>So many works have been written on the Mormons, particularly by that able writer Hepworth Dixon, that it would be inflicting a thankless office on those who may be led to read these pages.  In a short time Salt Lake City will become a very prosperous place, as many mines have been lately discovered.  This district bids fair to become the centre of extensive mining operations, and is already drawing the attention of speculators from the Western country.</P>
098.sgm:<P>At Ogden the beautiful scenery begins.  We are now 880 miles from San Francisco.  The train rushes along by promontory Toano, and stops rather longer than usual at Elko, this being the station whence the stages depart for, or bring passengers from, the famous mining district of White Pine.  The White Pine Mines were discovered in 1866, and the following year a rush of miners from all parts of California and Nevada was made to this new Eldorado.  Treasure City, as the principal town of the new district was called, sprang up like magic.  It mattered not that the transportation of goods and materials for building was exorbitantly high, that the road lay over a treeless desert, that the town was at the top of an almost inaccessible mountain, that there was no water, that the wind generally blew like a hurricane; these were disregarded in view of the fact that the mines were there.  The Eberhardt, now the property of an English company, looked down from its peak upon the town.  The Hidden Treasure, the Aurora, and a host <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>After leaving Elko we arrive at the Palisades, a most beautiful part of the road, and one which presented immense engineering difficulties.  `The Palisades' is an immense wall of rock, perpendicular in many places, and the train goes winding in and about precipices, by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>I shall have occasion to describe Washoe and the Comstock lode in another portion of this book treating of the mines of California and Nevada.</P>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">CALIFORNIA</HI>
098.sgm:<P>I NOW come to the more serious task of describing the Golden State, its climate, geology, zoology, &amp;c., as well as its mining, agricultural, and other industries.  I believe that many travellers content themselves with a hurried visit to the wonders and beauties of this distant region; at the same time I cannot but think, that a detail of its resources may prove interesting.</P>
098.sgm:<P>First then the <HI REND="italics">climate of California</HI>
098.sgm:<P>On looking at a map of California it will be noticed, as I have before observed, that its greatest area is enclosed by the Sierra Nevada mountains on the east and the coast range on the west, and that these ranges unite or nearly so north and south.  The extreme length of California from north to south is about 700 miles, extending from latitude 32&deg; 45' to 42&deg; north, with an average breadth of 180 miles.  Now the area enclosed by the ranges of mountains is more than 500 miles in length, and embraces almost the whole wealth, both mineral and agricultural, of the state.  Consequently, my remarks will more directly apply to this portion of California, and I beg attention to the following facts before I describe the variety of its climate.</P>
098.sgm:<P>It is known that the currents of air under which the earth passes in its diurnal revolutions, follow the line of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Thus when the sun is over the equator in the month of March, these currents of air blow from some distance north of the tropic of Cancer and south of the tropic of Capricorn, in an oblique direction towards this line of the sun's greatest attraction, and form what are known as the NE. and SE. trade winds.</P>
098.sgm:<P>As the earth in its path round the sun gradually brings the line of attraction north in summer, these currents of air are carried with it; so that, about the middle of May, the current from the NE. extends as far as the 38th or 39th degree of north latitude, and by June 20, the period of the sun's greatest inclination, it extends to the northern part of California and the southern section of Oregon.</P>
098.sgm:<P>These north-east winds, in their progress across the continent towards the Pacific Ocean, pass over the snow-capped ridges of the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, and are of course deprived of all their moisture by the low temperature of those regions of eternal snow; consequently no moisture can be precipitated from them in the form of dew or rain in a higher temperature than that to which they have been subjected, for necessarily no condensation can by any possibility take place.  They therefore pass over the hills and plains of California, where the temperature is very high in summer, in a very dry state; and, so far from being charged with moisture, they absorb, like a sponge, all that the atmosphere and surface of the earth can yield, until both become apparently perfectly dry.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Thus is the dry season produced in California, which continues sometimes until after the sun repasses the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Again; there is an extensive ocean current of cold water which flows along the coast of California, from the North Pacific or perhaps Arctic Ocean.  I have heard it stated that it flows from the coasts of China and Japan northward to the peninsula of Kamtschatka, and, making a circuit to the eastward, strikes the coast of America in about 41&deg; or 42&deg;.  Be that as it may, it does flow along the coast, bearing with it a cold current of air, which appears in the form of fog when it comes in contact with a higher temperature.  Indeed off the coast the course of the current can be followed by the bank of fog that hangs over it.  This current passes south, and is lost in the tropics.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Towards midday the vast dry surface of the interior becomes greatly heated, causing an undercurrent of cool air to rush about that time from the ocean, bringing with it the dense fog caused by the meeting of the before-mentioned hot dry NE. wind and that accompanying the cold northern current.  When the equilibrium is restored the wind ceases.  Thus for six months, in San Francisco there is a warm, sometimes burning, morning; and a cold windy, drizzly afternoon, followed by a clear starlight night.</P>
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098.sgm:<P>This is one phase of California climate in San Francisco.  San Francisco may be said to be situated on the western side of the coast range, so that the NE. trades seldom reach the city; but if, as is sometimes the case towards the time of either of the equinoxes, the north wind should come creeping along from the shores of the bay, or the east wind escape through some gorge of the hills, then it is that the San Franciscan experiences what is felt during the greater part of the year in the interior; unaccustomed to the hot, dry, parching air, with neither dress nor house fitted to live in, he goes about panting and complaining; and the newspapers chronicle the hottest day of the season, with the thermometer at the usual rate in Marysville or Sacramento.</P>
098.sgm:<P>This is another and brief phase of San Francisco climate.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The third phase begins about the middle of September.  The daily fogs no longer sweep over the city; the wind blows fitfully from all quarters, and not, as for the last six months, uniformly from the west.  Frequently in the morning it is easterly, whilst from force of habit apparently it veers to the west in the afternoon.  Clouds gather in the south; it is generally cloudy in early morning, contrary to the other season.  The air becomes very soft and balmy, the dews lie longer on the ground and the springs of water increase in volume.  At length the wind begins to blow in gusts from the south-west laden with moisture, and finally down comes the welcome rain.  Everybody is glad; almost everybody is uncomfortable, for they are so little habituated to getting wet.  The dust of the streets turns to mud, the dried planking of the pavements swells and starts from its confines, the shrunken roofs leak, workmen are busy making houses tight for the winter, and umbrellas are brought out from their concealment.  The greatest number of rainy days the wind is SW.  The heaviest rain comes from the SE.</P>
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098.sgm:<P>The winter season is the most delightful in San Francisco.  It rarely happens that ice forms, or even snow falls.  Occasionally snow remains for a few days on the peak of Monte Diablo, or on the coast range on the other side of the bay; but, owing to the proximity of the ocean and the prevailing southerly winds, winter has no terrors, and the fine days, whereof there are many, are most enjoyable.  Many families connected with San Francisco go there from New York during the winter to escape their own terrible climate.</P>
098.sgm:<P>In the interior it is very different.  From the beginning of May to the end of October, in most years, the sun rises without a cloud and sets without a shade over his disc.  During the entire day he blazes overhead; there is not a breath of wind to temper his rays, nor a drop of rain to moisten the parched earth.  Near the Sierras a most welcome breeze does come down every evening; such is the case at Sacramento, which is near the mountains; but quite in the interior, as at Marysville or Oroville, Stockton, and Millerton, the only solace is the absence of the sun.  This continued dry cloudless weather is very wearying, but, strange to say, the regular inhabitants soon get acclimated, and work at noonday as though in a more temperate clime.  This is fortunate, as almost all the mines are in this region.  It will be understood that the coast gets the rain earlier than the interior, and the coast range absorbs the rain clouds until it gets so saturated that it can hold them no longer, when they spread over the thirsty interior.  At length clouds begin to bank up in the south, and there is a brilliant sunset.  That luminary rises with veiled face, and at length the gates of heaven are opened and down comes the rain in sheets.  The first rain generally lasts three days at intervals until December or January, when it is of longer duration.  Now it is that wet diggings are abandoned and the dry gulches and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Spring is the season of gladness for all, unless it has been a dry season, and then every class suffers; but if the earth has been properly soaked and the average rain has fallen, then the streams are full and the Sierra Nevadas have a wealth of moisture stored up in their snows that will not fail until June or July.  Then it is that the farmer and the miner are most active, the land is green with pasturage and brilliant with flowers of many hues.  Even at the end of the year, if the winter has been propitious, the cattle thrive, for the wild oats that grow above a man's head dry in the hot sun, and afford excellent pasturage, whilst the beasts grow fat on the oil of the ripe seeds of the many grasses and herbs that abound; so that what to a stranger appears a barren waste is sometimes the most nourishing for cattle; but, without the winter's rain, not a blade appears and the animals perish by thousands.  Another apparent anomaly is, that the first rains nearly starve the cattle.  The moment they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The climate of the extreme south of California, such as Los Angeles, San Diego, &amp;., is semi-tropical; there are no severe winters, though it suffers sometimes from extreme drought, and occasional frosts nip the more tender productions of that part of the country.</P>
098.sgm:<P>A third and intermediate climate is that enjoyed by the narrow strip between the coast range and the Pacific, and that of the different valleys running from the bay to that ocean.  I can liken it to nothing better than the climate of Devonshire.  The sea fogs that strike the summits of the hills keep the air moist, whilst the reflection of the sun's rays warms it; innumerable streams trickle down to the plains, keeping them always green; and, with the exception of occasional thick and stormy weather, this limited section enjoys the most charming climate of all the state.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The average range of the thermometer in San Francisco is from 50&deg; to 70&deg;, but on extraordinary occasions has fallen from 85&deg; to 46&deg;, and that in twelve hours.  This was owing to the violent restoration of the equilibrium, the reasons for which have been already given.  When the thermometer at San Francisco is 70&deg; it is 86&deg; at Sacramento and 106&deg; at Millerton, at the head of the valley of the San Joaquim.</P>
098.sgm:<P>One extraordinary fact connected with the rainfall in California is, that whereas the rain comes up from the south, it is invariably first heard of in the north.  Thus the inhabitant of San Francisco, when the telegraph informs him that it is raining in Portland, Oregon, or up at Shasta, may look for it in a day or two at his city.  Thunderstorms are of very rare occurrence, and lightning only plays its harmless sheet fires occasionally about the horizon, or round the peak of Monte Diablo.</P>
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098.sgm:<P>The shortest day of the year at San Francisco is about nine hours and a half from sunrise to sunset, and fourteen and three-quarters is the duration of the longest, but twilight gives about two hours' extra light to each end.</P>
098.sgm:<P>California is subject to mild shocks of earthquakes, which many weak people seem to conect with its climate, and are apt to say on the occurrence of a hot day, `We are sure to have an earthquake.'  Now I have conversed with many well-observant people on the subject, and not one of them had noticed any rise in the temperature of the air, either before or after the occurrence.  I should rather conclude, dare I hazard an opinion on a subject so very little understood, that as all the shakes that have happened in the neighbourhood of San Francisco have followed the line of the coast range, their cause may be traced to electro-magnetism rather than atmospheric influences.  There have been some sharp shocks in California since its occupation by the Americans, but none so severe as in the time of the Spanish rule, when some of the fine old Mission churches were overthrown; not that I mean to infer that the change of government has changed the Plutonic forces, nor that the American is exempt from the ills that afflicted the Castilian.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The climate of California may be summed up as one of contrast; and now that the railroad shortens distance, you can leave the burning Stockton plains in the morning, and dine amidst the eternal winter of the Sierras on the same day; or leave the orange groves of Los Angeles, and sleep with the bracing air of the Pacific pouring along the Golden Gate through your chamber windows.  Her climate is like the fortune of many of her children; one-half of their California life they bask in the full sunshine of prosperity, and the other they battle against the blasts and storms of adversity.</P>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">THE GEOLOGY OF CALIFORNIA</HI>
098.sgm:<P>TO TREAT the subject-matter of this chapter in a purely scientific manner would take a volume, and at the same time would require more scientific knowledge and research than I either possess, or have given to the subject.  I merely present a slight sketch of the general geological features of the country, a sort of reminiscence of an acquaintance, not the biography of an intimate relation.</P>
098.sgm:<P>To all foreigners the word California signifies <HI REND="italics">gold</HI>
098.sgm:<P>California may be said to possess four great mineral belts.  The Copper bearing, the Gravel belt, the Slate belt, and the Granite belt, the three latter are gold bearing, each of them having their respective elevations one above the other.  The copper belt is found at a slight elevation above the level of the sea, and ore has been worked in Crescent City in the north; at Grizzly Flat in El Dorado County; in Shasta County; in Nevada County; in Napa County; at Copperopolis, and at San Diego.  The only mines, however, that attained any importance were those of Copperopolis, where the famous Union mine is situated; hence its somewhat composite name.  The amount of ore exported in 1862 was 3,660 tons; in 1863, 5,553 tons; in 1865, 17,787 tons; in 1866, 19,813 tons; and then prices fell so low in Europe, on account of Australian and Chilian copper, that, in the first half of 1867, only 3,452 tons were shipped, after which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The auriferous Gravel belt is of much greater importance.  It was in it that the first discoveries of gold were made.  It was the only one worked for years, and the only one supposed to be worth working.  To-day we know that there are two distinct gravel beds in California, the <HI REND="italics">old</HI>
098.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">new</HI>
098.sgm:; the <HI REND="italics">new</HI>
098.sgm: beds comprising those surface diggings all over the state, whose boulders are rounded and pebbles polished by existing streams, and whose gold has been brought down within a comparatively recent epoch; the <HI REND="italics">old</HI>
098.sgm: exists far below the surface, and has formed the beds of mightier rivers than now flow along the great basin.  They tell the story of young earth ere the Sierras were formed, and their water-worn rocks speak of the rolling of mighty waters that have passed away for ever.  But of these further on.  Let us return to the new gravel belt.  This belt, as a general rule, is found on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada, from two to three thousand feet above the level of the sea; and at this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:elevation gold is found almost everywhere.  The floods of winter have not only carried it down the gulches, but sown it broadcast over the land.  But, before I go any further, let me premise that gold of this nature, `placer gold,' as it is called, is now generally supposed to have formed part of the mother vein, and to have been disintegrated from it by the action of the elements, or other natural force.  This gold, in many instances, is extremely fine, and consequently easily gathered up by clay or mixed with sand; hence it arises that, in almost any part of the Placer district, the `colour' can be found, though not in sufficient quantity to make the working of it profitable.  Deep gullies and ravines seam the faces of the mountains.  These gulches cut through the matrix.  Their beds are dry in summer, but when the winter rains come, or the snow melts, they are filled with a turbid roaring stream bringing down rocks and trees and all kinds of abrasive matters.  The sides of the gulches are torn away, and the whole debris is strewn over the gentler slopes of the hills below.  But in these lower ranges exist rivers which cross these diluvial deposits in all directions, and gather the richest of the precious stores so rudely torn from the mountains.  Thus arose two separate deposits; the one on the numerous table-lands of the foot-hills, which go by the name of `Flats,' as Shaw's Flat, Brown's Flat, &amp;c., where the gold is fine and universally diffused; or those of rivers and creeks, where the gold is coarse, and found generally below the gravel, such as the mines of the north fork of the American, the Middle Yuba, Wood's Creek, Mormon Gulch, &amp;c., all famous for their placer wealth.  As may be supposed, the flat and river diggings are the easiest to be worked, as well as the numerous gulches running from these table lands.  Perhaps the richest creek in all California has been Wood's Creek in Tuolumne county.  It is only ten miles long; from the earliest mining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>But these gravel deposits are of various natures.  Sometimes they are of many strata one above another, each strata of a different composition from any other, and the whole from fifty to three hundred feet thick, with gold in every one of them.  Sometimes they are so strongly cemented with clay as to form a solid conglomerate, and again they are as loose as a sea-beach.  Again, auriferous gravel is found mixed with decayed quartz, as though the vein had been brought bodily down and buried, where it gradually rotted.  And again, fragments of petrified trees and great boulders are found, with stones of all shapes and sizes, but all water-worn.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The common term for the gold found in these river beds, creeks, and gravel deposits is `placer gold,' or `gold dust,' and is both fine and coarse.  The different varieties of fine are scale, grain, shot, flour, and wire gold, which speak for themselves.  The scale gold is sometimes called float gold, and, from the nature of its formation, is more generally diffused than any other.  The wire gold sometimes assumes fantastic, even beautiful forms.  I have seen it twisted together like a tangled skein of silk, and at other times standing out of a flat surface like the fronds of moss.</P>
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098.sgm:<P>The miners have christened coarse gold after their most familiar objects, such as buckshot, pea, bean, mocassin, cucumber seed, pumpkin seed, and some others, but these are the most common.  It is strange how common it is to find gold like the sole of the foot, the mocassin.  All those of the form of pea, bean, shot, &amp;c. are gold that has been carried some distance, or been washed by successive floods, whereas the wire and float have but lately been torn from their parents.  There is no rule about the <HI REND="italics">locale</HI>
098.sgm: of these various sorts.  They may be found together or separately, or side by side, or one shape on one bank of a river and another on the opposite bank.  Gold takes strange shapes sometimes, especially in the larger unclassified nuggets.  One specimen I saw had precisely the form of a head of maize, or Indian corn, only each grain was crystallised gold.  Such specimens are exceedingly rare; indeed, crystals of gold either singly or in groups are scarce.  When found the crystal forms an octohedron.  When the lump of gold has its edges sharp and rough, look out for the mother lode close by, especially if it be a small gulch.  Coarse gold runs in pieces of the value of from half a crown to twenty pounds.  Above that amount they become <HI REND="italics">curios</HI>
098.sgm:.  The largest nugget found in California weighed one hundred and ninety-five pounds troy, which has been beaten by Australia.  One day in the town of Sonora, in the Southern mines, after a very heavy rain and freshet, a man was leading his mule cart up the steep principal street, when his foot struck upon a large stone; he stooped down to remove it, and found it was a solid lump of gold, about twenty-five pounds weight, which had been exposed by the storm, and many hundreds of people had passed over it daily.  An amusing circumstance connected with the lucky discovery was that, upon its being made known, the whole of that portion of the town, including <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Gold varies in fineness from 500 to 990.  The average is 875 to 880.  For gold is never found perfectly pure; it is always alloyed with silver, and sometimes with copper and lead.  The figure 1000, therefore, is used to denote pure gold; but supposing a specimen or bar contains one-fourth of silver, then it is only 975; and one-half baser metal, then it only ranks as 500 fine.  Gold 500 fine fetches proportionably a higher price than gold 990 fine (which has only ten per cent. of base metal), on account of the value of the silver, &amp;c. that goes with it.</P>
098.sgm:<P>As a general rule the gold of the north is finer than the gold of the south of California.  In Placer county, for example, the gold ranges from about 860 to 930, whilst Kern river and Mono gold is only about 600, and that of Walker river, high up in the mountains, is only 560.  The most uniform richness of gold has been found at Columbia in Tuolumne county; it ranged from 930 to 970.  I shall have occasion to speak of this town in connection with mining.  The wiry gold is universally poor in quality running in the neighbourhood of 750.  A substance valuable in itself yet depreciating gold is often found with it, and that is iridium.  In the north especially it is so abundant in some districts, that gold is there worth from a dollar to a dollar and a half less than other dust in consequence.  The gold of Mariposa county, although it is perhaps the richest county in the aggregate, on account of gold being diffused all over it, is poor and wiry, and, even when coarse, the quality does not exceed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>A few words about the old gravel beds which are of comparatively recent discovery.  In bygone ages, which may be almost termed pre-scientific, four (at least) great rivers traversed the then portion of the globe now known as California.  Their direction was from north-west to south-east; they were from a hundred to five hundred feet wide.  Immense rocks obstructed their flow, and huge boulders strewed their bottom.  To-day the mountains of the Sierras cover them, and they are only partially exposed where the later rivers and the rents, caused by subterranean forces, have worn deep ravines, or opened wide crevices.  Whereever such an occurrence has taken place, the river or ravine has proved to be extremely rich, and portions of the bed of the old river have always been found above the point of intersection.  In one river a portion has taken the name of `The Blue Lead.'  It was first discovered in Sierra county, underlying every other strata, and walled in by steep banks of hard bed rock, exactly like the banks of rivers and ravines as we find them existing at the present time.  This bed rock is water-worn like that of any other river, and rounded quartz and other pebbles are mixed with the blue clay.  Petrified trees and wood are likewise found.  As is the case in the rivers of the present day, the fine gold is washed to the banks, whilst the coarse lies in mid stream, or what was mid stream.  This river has been traced for more than twenty miles, and the history of its working will appear under the proper head.  At present I can only say that, could faith exercise her power and cast the mountains to the bottom of the sea, there would be laid bare on Eldorado which would shame California, and the relics of a past world that would be the delight of geologists.  In other parts more particularly, as at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>It is very likely that the course of one of these subterranean rivers lies under or near to the town of Sacramento, because on an attempt being made to bore an artesian well for public use at that place, the workmen were obliged to desist on account of arriving at a stratum of boulders which the borers were unable to pass through.  At Stockton, however, they were more successful, and, after going down a thousand feet, obtained a flow of water which rose eleven feet above the surface, and yielded sixty thousand gallons of water daily.  A like attempt was made in San Francisco, but it was abandoned, although there are two natural artesian springs in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The next auriferous belt in point of elevation is the Slate belt.  When I say in point of elevation, I mean that the slate formation is found higher than the gravel, although at the same time it likewise underlies it, frequently composing the bed-rock of the gravel placer diggings, and sometimes cutting them in half, as has been found by going through the supposed bed-rock, when the gravel has been found lying under it.  Rich quartz veins traverse the slate belt in all directions, and nothing can be more diversified than the dip or inclination of the slate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The last, grandest, most extensive, and least known is the Granite belt.  Far up in the eternal snows and down to the foundations of the mighty hills is granite, ever granite.  On the slopes of the Sierras the granite is intertwined with veins of gold-bearing quartz.  It is supposed that the mother lode is there.  It is the theory of the day that from that source flowed all the gold that is found in the rivers and streams and gullies and pockets and table-lands of the lower country.  The quantity is inexhaustible, and the supply goes on day after day, as time slowly loosens the precious metal from its bonds of adamant.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The veins in the granite are hardly as yet worked.  There is enough work in the quartz mines, of the gravel and slate formation, to employ the present thousands of workmen for many years yet to come, and population is so scarce and labour so dear, that to-day the mountain mines are not worked to advantage.  And yet there are mines in the Alpine district on the confines of the state of Nevada, where you can see the gold sparkle in the croppings of the vein as it bursts out of the earth--hard and stubborn rock, however, to crush, as befits the rugged aspect of nature around.  I have not seen a more bleak and wild country in all California than this.  Constantly enveloped in clouds, with a cold wind whistling about your ears and chilling you to the very marrow, with no shrub but the ashy-coloured sage brush, with no tree whatsoever, with precipicesfor roads and boulders for pavement, the mine ought to be rich to repay life up there.  And yet miners do live there and are happy.</P>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">THE GEYSERS</HI>
098.sgm:<P>AT SEVEN O'CLOCK in the morning I left San Francisco in the most convenient ferry steamer I have yet met with in the United States.  The boat was originally constructed for the passenger trade between this place and Sacramento, but the railway has changed all that; and now the whole of the inside of the vessel is, as it were, scooped out, and one spacious carpeted saloon formed, with seats and plate-glass windows all around.  One can either promenade as at a conversazione, or sit and enjoy the lovely scenery.  For it is lovely as we skirt close to the shores of Angel Island, covered with wild flowers, which, as is generally the case in California, grow in patches all of one species.  For example one sees acres of the yellow lupin, then again a tract covered solely with the gentle blue nemophila, or the orange of the escholtzia, which is popularly called the California poppy, so common in this country is it.  Our way lies across the bays of San Pablo and Suisun until we come to a halt at the town of Vallejo, called after a Spanish general of that name, who had immense possessions in land and herds prior to the American possession of California.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Vallejo is a thorough mushroom town, or rather a succession of mushroom towns.  For a brief period in the early days of California it was the capital, and the legislative wisdom met there in conclave; and hotels, barrooms, and money abounded, for those were the days of `the session of a thousand drinks.'  But the capital was removed just when the hall destined for the deliberations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Vallejo is a pretty little town covering a conically-shaped hill, with a church at the top having a high spire, which makes it quite a landmark.  The houses are mostly painted white, and have pretty little gardens.  The only drawback to the place is the total absence of trees.  This is being remedied by planting, so that the next generation may reap the benefit.</P>
098.sgm:<P>From Vallejo I proceeded by rail along the beautiful Napa valley.  After leaving the small hills that skirt the bay, the road appears to be a perfect level; there are no cuttings, no embankments, no tunnel; a level tract of rich lands stretches on each hand, broken now and then by clumps of oaks.  In the distance, and as if guarding the head of the valley, towers up the beautiful Mount St. Helena.  Level as the road appears to the traveller, it gradually ascends until, at an elevation of three hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Calistoga is one of the watering-places of California.  It is situated in a circular basin of about a mile in diameter.  The hills that surround it are covered with trees and vegetation.  The bottom of the basin may be called a thin crust of earth covering a boiling lake, as if to keep it hot.  Hot springs rise in all directions.  Wherever the ground is penetrated hot water is found.  There are also salses, or mud springs.  The extinct crater of St. Helena forms one of the walls of the basin, and there is little doubt that the two have subterranean connection.  About six years ago this spot was in all its savage wildness, but having come into the possession of a well-known San Francisco capitalist named Brannan, that gentleman determined to develop the natural resources of the place, and has laid out more than a hundred thousand dollars for that purpose.  He began by building a colony of cottages round the rim of the basin.  Fancy a cottage <HI REND="italics">orne&acute;e</HI>
098.sgm: with a deep balcony, a drawing-room extending along the entire front, subdivided by bedrooms in the rear.  Fancy also every one of these cottages being precisely alike, so much so that they might have been cast in the same mould.  Each cottage has a small garden in front, containing a date palm and a Monterey cypress.  Attached to each is a small summer house of lattice-work with a little round table in it and other conveniences, each the facsimile of its neighbour.  There cannot be any bickerings or jealousy among the guests, for there is no difference even in the chairs, the only inconvenience that might arise being that some belated or bemused visitor might find it difficult to decide upon his own particular domicile.  To <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Of the Springs themselves I can only say that their name is legion, and they run about everywhere asking one to test their medicinal qualities.  Directly in front of the hotel is a reservoir of cold water full of gold fish.  Immediately by its side is an artesian well, which has been bored to the depth of more than a hundred feet.  The water from this is of the temperature of 175&deg;, and of course visitors amuse themselves by boiling eggs in it.  It is likely, however, to be filled up with broken glass, as when a bottle is let down at the end of a long string with a weight to go far down the water (a study in natural history performed by the majority of the guests), it generally happens that only the neck of the bottle returns.  The next spring we come to is of pure soft hot water, and is used exclusively for the laundry which is built over it.  Linen washed in it becomes very white, and the hot water is ever ready without fire or expense.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:The great fun is the swimming bath before mentioned, where the young ladies take lessons, and one hears a confused noise of splash, scream, and laughter.  A very serious-looking affair next claims our attention.  We enter a small house, in one corner of which is something like a sentry-box, and in this sentry-box an iron chair.  Ideas of punishment or imprisonment for the season present themselves to the mind, particularly as there is a square hole at the side where the incarcerated one might receive his daily rations.  A trap-door is opened, and the mystery is explained.  It is the vapour bath, temperature 195&deg;.  The victim sits on that iron chair doing penance in a white sheet, the door is closed upon him, and the hole at the side enables him to put out his head and gasp for life.  When he is sufficiently <HI REND="italics">stuve&acute;</HI>
098.sgm: the bolts are drawn, and what remains of the man staggers forth into the sunshine.  It is a splendid cure, however, for rheumatism.  A line of the regular hot baths comes next in order, temperature 90&deg;, the water strongly impregnated with iron.  About a hundred yards farther on is a little building which covers the sulphur bath, the most popular of all.  The water is only moderately warm, but has a tendency to soften the skin as well as to open the pores to such an extent, that the bather on emerging, especially if the day be warm, cannot dry himself so great is the perspiration.  The greater part of the water has the common chalybeate taste with the usual salutary effects.  For my part I think that half the cure of the invalids that flock to the Springs arises from good air, cheerful society, good fare, and absence for the time being of the anxieties of daily life.  He who brings his skeleton with him instead of locking it up in his safe, may drink a whole mineral spring, sit an entire day in the sentry-box, and sweat for a week in the sulphur bath, but he will ever remain in a state of biliary torpor.  The air is so pure, the scenery is so lovely, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>In front of the hotel is a large grotto, composed entirely of the petrified trunks of trees.  There is a forest of such about four miles from the hotel.  There are various orders of trees, including the pine, the mansanita, the oak, and others: some are prostrate, some upright, but there they are stone witnesses of a past action of nature.  My theory is that the forest was covered in past ages with a stream of silicious mud flowing from St. Helena, which mud penetrated into and petrified these trees.  Subsequently the action of time and the elements wore away the surrounding mud leaving the trees standing.  Earthquakes and storms have thrown down some, and parasites wind round the upright stems of others.  The fact that the trees were petrified ere they fell is proved by the circumstance that those which are prostrate are fractured as stone pillars would be under similar conditions, not crushed or split like ordinary trees.  Between five or six miles from Calistoga are the White Sulphur Springs, another favourite resort for Californians.  I was strongly recommended to make the ascent of Mount St. Helena and enjoy the view at sunrise, but I confess that I shunned the fatigue.  I was told that the panorama is superb, with the whole valley at one's feet, and the bay of San Francisco like a lake of silver in the distance.</P>
098.sgm:<P>During the season there is splendid shooting in the neighbourhood of Calistoga.  Since the warfare carried on by the farmers against coyotes, foxes, and other vermin, that played such havoc with the small game, it has increased wonderfully; and it is no uncommon thing to see colonies of quail running among the chapparal or low brushwood, and perching on their branches, for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Early one morning we left Calistoga in a kind of char-a&grave;-banc, known here by the name of `mud waggon.'  Four good horses carried us over a spur of St. Helena which gave us a faint idea of the view from the top of the mountain.  After a delightful ride of a few hours we arrived at Healdsburg, a pretty little agricultural town, well laid out and embosomed in trees.  The town having been founded by one Heald, he has taken care to hand his name down to posterity, not only through the name of the place, but also of the majority of the buildings in it; for example we have Heald's Hotel, Heald's Institute, which is a stationer's shop where they sell newspapers and fruit, Heald's grocery, &amp;c.  Here we were introduced to the renowned Foss, a man who drives faster, drinks more whiskey, and has fewer accidents than any stage coachman in California.  He was the first man to drive down the mountain's side to the Geysers before the present zigzag road was made by which the stage now goes to the bottom of the valley.  I was offered the choice of going by the coach, or going on to a place called Ray's, where horses are in readiness to cross the range.  Preferring to trust myself rather than anyone else, I chose the latter, especially as on horseback one has less dust, and can enjoy the scenery better.  We drove to Ray's, along a beautiful road through a country like an English park, studded with clumps of trees with here and there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Ray lives by supplying horses to tourists, some five unhappy Californian specimens of which were standing with resigned looks awaiting our arrival.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Having selected one I got on, and began the winding ascent of the mountains.  The road was very steep, and here I experienced the virtue of the Californian saddle with its peak.  I also discovered the hitherto hidden virtue of my beast.  No persuasion of whip or spur would make him deviate from the nearest and best way to the Geysers.  He was bred, as were all the others, on the ranche; their life has been passed in taking travellers to the Springs, and they will not be seduced into taking any of the tempting short cuts leading the unwary to pleasant pastures but not to their destination.  We had left Ray's about four o'clock, and now the sun began to set.  There was a glorious flood of sunset over Russian River Valley; a rush of purple light and the mountains of the coast range grew grey and indistinct, till the moon, which was nearly at the full, rose slowly, changing the purple and grey to yellow.  Ever climbing, sometimes in the shade of the mountain, when the uncertainty of our way and the gloom gave a sense of danger which engendered silence, then emerging into the light again, we saw the road and our party grew chatty and at ease,  At length we reached the top, and then began the real difficulty.  Our path lay along the ridge of the mountain called the `Hog's Back,' covered with loose stones; in some places it is only about two yards wide with a precipice on each side.  Here we had to trust entirely to our horses.  This ridge is three miles in length, but appeared longer.  At last we arrived at the peak round which we skirted, and before us lay the gloom of the forest.  Like all California mountains, one side exposed to the sea breeze was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The next morning was beautiful.  The cold air condensed the vapour and it hung over the boiling springs.  The sun had risen, although it had not arrived at the valley, but the tops of the opposite hills were glowing with its beams.  I started on the ascent of the great can&tilde;on, and toiling along over rocks and through dense brushwood arrived at the first ebullition, two large pits, seething, bubbling, and swelling, with the ground crumbling under one's feet, higher and higher up the gorge, till I came to the top, about a mile from its commencement, where the stream of mingled fresh and sulphurous water runs away, and then the path dips over a ridge.  The view from the top was very striking.  You look at the opposite hills densely wooded; you see rising on each side the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">THE YOSEMITE&acute; VALLEY</HI>
098.sgm:<P>What traveller is there that comes to California who does not, almost immediately on arrival, ask about the Yosemite&acute;?  The ignorance of some is supreme.  They think they can take a carriage from the hotel, and go there as to a picnic; just as miners in the olden days, who used to wander about the outskirts of the town looking for the diggings.  For my part, I confess that one of my great inducements in visiting California was a pilgrimage to the valley.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The usual tour formerly was by way of the Big Trees, thence across the country to Coulterville.  Now, however, in consequence of the railroads to those places being partially finished, I was advised to go to the Yosemite&acute; and return, doing the Big Trees separately.  I recommend all travellers to do the same, and have as little to do with stages as possible.  The roads are rough and dusty.  There is no limit to the number of passengers; some of them Chinese, who smoke execrable cigarettes.  In short a stage journey is an infliction to be borne in order to travel from one place to another; you are choked with the dust, starved by the dirt and badness of the meals, wearied with the ceaseless jolting, and bored to death by the monotony of the scenery.  Having thus said I shall never refer to this discomfort again, only let it be perfectly understood that, when I mention stage travel, I have suffered as above described.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I left San Francisco at four o'clock in the afternoon by steamboat for Stockton, preferring this longer way <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Had it not been for the bright stars overhead and the absolute repose that I enjoyed, I should have found the latter part of the journey monotonous.  The river winds its way through a boundless expanse of tule marsh, and the silence is only broken by the throbbing of our engine, or the croaking of myriads of frogs.  There is no hum of midnight as in the tropics, where animal and insect life alike rejoice in the coolness.  The river is the most winding I ever travelled upon in my life.  Through the dimness of the night I could see the great mainsail of a schooner as it apparently drifted slowly by us, and yet I thought I could distinguish the banks of the river between us.  It was so, that vessel was going the same way that we were, and was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Stockton is situated on one of these sloughs, and its position was so chosen because it is the head of deep water navigation, except during the time of the melting of the snows, when steamers can go a hundred miles higher up the river.  Stockton formerly enjoyed the same advantages that have been stated about Sacramento.  It was the grand depo&circ;t for all the southern mines.  Every evening the great plain that stretches away from the town was alive with the loaded waggons, and merry with the sound of the bells of the mule-trains going to Mokelumne, Sonora, Columbia, Mariposa, Hornitas, Knight's Ferry, James Town, and the numerous mining camps so rich in their surface diggings.  In this respect Stockton was much more picturesque than Sacramento; for the whole of the carrying trade encamped on this plain, and at night the twinkle of many lights, the song of the muleteer (they were all Mexicans), and his vociferous talk to his animals, the animation of much life, and in the grey morning everything was astir.  Stockton is now the great grain depo&circ;t for the valley of the San Joaquim, which is one of the granaries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>From Stockton we took the train to Modesta, which is as far as the San Joaquim Valley Branch of the Central Pacific is made.  The road lay for the whole distance along the great plain, which is brilliant with flowers in early spring, but then was bare as an adobe brick, with the exception of here and there a low bush with bright green leaves, which I was informed was a datura and a deadly poison; no cattle will touch it, and it grows where all other vegetation would perish.  At Modesta I took the stage to Coulterville, where I joined a party who were going the rest of the journey on horseback.  The livery stablekeeper at this place has always a supply of horses on hand ready for this emergency.  At daybreak we had the usual allowance served out of bad coffee, redeemed in this instance, however, by fresh eggs and good home-made bread, in the place of those indigestible balls called hot cakes.  We rode after breakfast over barren but wild scenery, large croppings of trap-rock starting out of the hot hill-side, oaks without a breath of air to quiver their green leaves; fir trees began to occur at intervals, showing that we were gaining in elevation; in fact, we were now among the foot-hills of the Sierras.  After ten or twelve miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:riding we dismounted, and went to see what is called Bower Cave, one of those houses that nature builds.  It is about a hundred feet deep, but I would not go out of my way to see it.  After this the scenery became very fine.  Again I was among the grand old pines, and the whole air was aromatic with the smell of the forest.  We turned out of the beaten track to see a small grove of genuine big trees.  Our guide pointed out two to us which he said bore the name of the `Siamese Twins;' they are noble trees, and both grow from one root.  The place is called Crane Flat.  We slept there, and the following day set off as early as possible for the valley.  Fifteen miles rough riding through the same glorious mountain scenery brought us to the heights above the valley, where we were recommended to rest awhile.  After that a most fatiguing <HI REND="italics">descent</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The Yosamite&acute; Valley proper is seven miles long.  It can hardly be called a valley.  It is in reality a rift in the earth's surface.  Let the reader fancy such a chasm, of a width varying from one mile to ninety feet, with granite walls from one thousand to four thousand feet; that is to say, from one-fifth to three-quarters of a mile high.  Let him imagine some of these masses of rock to be detached, and standing in all their solitude like giant obelisks.  Let him picture others cleft from top to bottom as though by a thunder-bolt.  Added to this let him imagine a river, cold as ice and clear as crystal, following the windings of the valley, that same river having descended as from the clouds with the thunder of a great flood.  Let him conceive the most luxuriant vegetation and the extreme of barrenness, the softest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>But it is impossible to describe the endless charms of light and shade and colour and form, or to picture the sunbeam as it strikes the summit of one of the giant sentinels, or to note it stealing down the sides of the cold walls and then filling the whole valley with a flood of glory, relieved here and there by the deepest shade, more gloomy still by contrast.  Here are spots where the sun never shines, cold and damp and dripping for ever, and others where the gorge opens its arms wide to receive the bridegroom and bask in his rays; some where the river hurries along anxious to be free from its stony prison, and others where it expands into a still deep lake, as if for rest and enjoyment of the lovely scene, for it takes it all in, and in its inmost depths the whole valley is mirrored.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I have not mentioned the Falls, nor can I think that any two men can describe them alike.  Both the man who looked upon them practically as good water-power and he who fainted from excess of emotion on beholding them were true in their own way, but how different was their mental vision.  For my part I was conscious of a waving in the air of thin streams of water that looked like spun glass, elsewhere of an overwhelming sound of mighty floods, an overpowering sensation that made me gaze into the unfathomable deep that received them; at another time a feeling of being carried away by a torrent, and yet everything moving but myself.  At one place there was a still stranger feeling of everything moving but the water.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The reader will perhaps understand this when I detail the course of the valley, which I will now proceed to do.</P>
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098.sgm:<P>First of all, as everybody is told by the guide, the word Yosemite&acute; is the Indian for Big Grizzly Bear.  It is not one word but three or four joined together.  There are two ways of entering the valley, the one by the Mariposa and the other by the Coulterville trail.  The place where the traveller first strikes the view of the valley from Coulterville is called `The Stand-point of Silence.'  That from Mariposa is called `Inspiration Point.'  True to the trapper instinct of the Western man the American names everything, and almost all the names in and about the valley were given by one Hutchings, who first located the valley and established the first and for a long time the only hotel there.  Consequently he sought the most romantic and captivating names, and being a bit of a scholar, having edited a magazine in San Francisco, he did not choose badly, although perhaps it would have been in better taste to have adhered more strictly to the significant Indian names.  The view from `Stand-point' is very grand.  The valley is a mile below you apparently plumb at your feet; a haze covers the lowest part.  Immense firtrees are dwarfed by the distance.  The bridal vale looks like a stream of water whose flow has been suspended, for you see no motion, nor at that distance can you hear the sound of falling waters.  The bridal veil is the first object that is pointed out after you have descended into the valley.  It appears to be a mere vaporous, but is nevertheless a considerable, volume of water flowing from a great height.  Hardly two days in the year is this volume the same; a warm day in spring, or a warm rain, will melt the snows that feed it; the contrary will lock up its sources of supply; and so it goes on, ever falling but ever changing, till summer, when it dwindles to a mist of water and finally ceases altogether.  The Indian name is Pohono, meaning spirit of evil wind.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:Next we come to the Cathedral Rocks, 2,660 feet high, with the Cathedral Spires, two granite needles, 2,400 feet in elevation.  Then looms the solitary Sentinel Rock, grey and fissured; it stands at a bend of the valley as a watch upon those approaching, and is 3,043 feet above the river.  After that climb up some rocks slippery with spray, yourself drenched with it, and at intervals you will catch a glimpse of the Vernal Falls, which are only three times as high as Niagara.  This is an immense body of water as green as grass, and it appears to come down noiselessly till it strikes the basin below.  Not so the Wild Cat Falls, which are not far off, for they come rushing and whirling and seething, and one might say scratching their way among great boulders, some of which they leap over whilst others divide their waters.  For some distance now the journey along the valley is somewhat fatiguing, and if the traveller be a good walker he had better dismount.  In fact the whole of the valley is done best on foot, if time and strength will allow it.  Nevada Fall nexts greets us.  It is an immense sheet of water at the early part of the year, and is the main stream of the river Merced, the others being merely branches or forks.  This comes shooting over a smooth unbroken ledge 700 feet over our heads, and plunges into a chasm with a roar that imposes silence.  After these falls the valley widens, and the river here has spread out to the lovely Mirror Lake, covering eight acres of ground.  It is immensely deep and as still as death; the whole of the surrounding objects are reflected in it with startling distinctness.  The water is so dark, and the objects in the sunshine are so bright, that their image is mirrored to the minutest detail.  I was told that photographs have been taken here that for a moment puzzled the beholder which was the right side up.  The last and greatest fall of all is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The old mythological Titans recurred to my mind more than once during my trip up the valley.  These great rocks are so mighty, so desolate, so powerful to all appearance, and yet so still, so beat upon by storm and yet remaining in such unmoved majesty, that I could not but create this as the valley they were confined in by the younger gods, and that their giant forms were changed into these gaunt masses of granite.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The ascent of the Sentinel Rock is practicable from its eastern side, but as it is a long and fatiguing trip, not giving as good a view of the valley as from Inspiration Point, I did not undertake it.  I have attempted to give <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">THE BIG TREES</HI>
098.sgm:<P>THESE I have always called by their popular name, and the only one they are known by in California, for were I to inquire the best way of seeing the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
098.sgm: or the <HI REND="italics">Wellingtonia</HI>
098.sgm:<P>I went to Stockton as before on my trip to the Yosemite&acute;, this time however by rail.  Left San Francisco at four o'clock, crossed the bay to Oakland, jumped into the cars, and was in Stockton a little after eight.  Nothing very striking on this line excepting the scenery through Livermore's Pass, which is in the Monte Diablo range of mountains.  Early the following morning by train on the Copperopolis line as far as Milton, along the plains all the way.  Copperopolis was famous at one time as containing mines of untold wealth.  An immense deposit of copper was found there; mines were sunk in all directions; claims were taken up, companies formed, and as usual an excitement took place.  The Union Mine was sold for a million and a half of dollars.  Copper ore was found everywhere, large quantities were shipped to England, and all seemed to be flourishing, when the Swansea panic ensued.  Chilian and Australian copper was a drug, and of course poor little Copperopolis was nowhere.  There is not a single mine working, nor has one cent been returned of the hundreds of thousands sunk in developing them.  Still the copper is there and the mines can be worked should the price rise.  From Copperopolis through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>I did not enjoy a ride during my whole stay in California more than this.  The fresh morning air came down from the pine-clad mountains, everything was in perfect harmony with the equilibrium of my physical self.  I had slept well, had enjoyed a good breakfast, my horse appeared to be a good animal, and I was going to see one of the wonders of California.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The road was a gradual ascent; by its side ran a brawling brook, just as one sees in England, and the first roadside streamlet that I had met with in California.  It was side by side with me for about three miles, leaping and dancing, sometimes shaking the tips of large ferns as they slanted over its surface, and then sliding down great smooth slabs of stone, or clattering over the small talk of pebbles.  I loved that little brook.  My romance was somewhat dispelled on arriving at the top of a ridge, by the discovery that it was only the waste water of a ditch, or flume, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>My way now lay across a broad plateau laid out in one of nature's parks.  Immense oaks of every variety, horse chesnuts, the numerous species of fir trees (conspicuous among them the Douglas pine), which in height but not in girth rivals the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
098.sgm:<P>I heard a sound of dogs barking, and it was a relief, for even beauty becomes monotonous, especially when one is alone with it and jogging along to a certain destination, which naturally one is anxious to reach.</P>
098.sgm:<P>It was the `half-way house,' where the stages and travellers stop, for it becomes almost a duty to alight at the only house on the road, especially a hostel in the Sierras.  The place is owned by a Mexican, and `tended' by his housekeeper, who has a considerable degree of Indian mingled with a squeeze or two of Castilian blood.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Soon after leaving this place the forest becomes denser, and it is necessary to keep to the trail, for, once lost in the pathless woods, the chances are that you will be lost for ever, unless the superior intellect of your horse extricates you from your dilemma.  The great straight trees were here in all their majesty, now and then a dead bough would fall to the ground and almost startle one by breaking the silence.  Further on I came to a saw mill.  I had heard the unwonted sound of labour some two or three miles off, and the sharp ring of the axe echoed like a warning among the trunks of the trees.  For their turn will come some day, and the more upright the trunk, the purer the grain, and the sounder the heart, the more surely will the axe be laid to the root.  So it is elsewhere, but I wont moralise.  I was glad when they told me that I had only two miles farther to go to the trees.  The road now began to descend, and little streams ran across and soaked themselves into it, making it rather soft treading for my horse in some places, but I suppose he was accustomed to it as doubtless this was not his first visit.  Indeed I was soon conscious that he was an old stager from an increased animation in his gait, and evident desire to get to the end of the journey.  Presently I arrived at that mark of civilisation a signpost, on which was inscribed, in storm-beaten letters, `To the Big Trees Hotel.'  Down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Here is a very pretty hotel, well kept by the same people as that of Murphy's.  No guide is here wanted, so I wandered about untrammelled by one of these necessary nuisances.  The `Mammoth Tree Grove' is at the bottom of a shallow basin in the mountains.  To be irreverent to such an ancient fane, I would say a soup plate rather than a basin, for the bottom is flat and the sides rise very little above it.  The trees are, according to some botanists, of the same family as the California red wood so much used for building purposes; indeed, a scientific gentleman with whom I became acquainted assured me, that it was the red wood much increased in size under peculiar advantages of soil and situation.  I am almost inclined to agree with him.  The foliage of the two is precisely alike, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The proprietors of the grove have named almost every one of their ninety trees, and I cannot say that I admire their nomenclature.  That they intend it to be final is evidenced by the fact that they are painted on tablets which are let into the trees.  That they should have Washington and Lincoln is natural enough, but when one finds these hoary monarchs named after Starr King and minor unknown California lights, we look upon it in the light of <HI REND="italics">le&grave;se majeste&acute;</HI>
098.sgm:<P>There are some redeeming names however.  For instance a group of three that intertwine their topmost branches is called the `Three Graces;' another is called `Hercules' very appropriately, for his trunk is immense.  One other, standing away from the rest, is called the `Hermit;' and a noble tree bears the title of the `Pride of the Forest.'  That is better than localising them.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The average height of the trees is three hundred feet.  One of them, called the `Horseman's Ride,' has been prostrate for a long time as the soil has accumulated high up its sides.  It is hollow, and a man on horseback can ride upright along the cavity for a distance of seventy-five feet.  This tree must have been four hundred and fifty feet high, and forty feet in diameter.  On the stump of the large tree that was cut down in 1854 a room has been built, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The wild flowers here are exceedingly beautiful.  The succession of seasons gives a series of species from the hardy shrub of the north to the warm-coloured, highly perfumed flower of the sunny south.  Roses and azalias, snowdrops and most fragrant lilies, the dogwood tree with its snowy blossoms, all take their turn after the May sun has melted the snow.  In winter the house is shut up, and left in charge of the motionless sentinels.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The visitor will notice how many of the trees are damaged by fire at their base, and, on inquiring the reason of such Vandalism, will be told that it was done by Indians in the days when no White man trod these wilds.  The grove was a favourite resort for game on account of herbage and water.  The Indians used to surround it, and then set fire to the grass which, communicating with the trunks of the trees, drove out the animals.  The bark however I was happy to learn, although fifteen to eighteen inches thick, is rapidly growing over the burnt spots, and I was astonished at being shown how much it had grown on one tree in two years.  As an instance of the vitality of these monsters I may mention, that the tree is yet alive whose bark was stripped off and exhibited at the Sydenham  Palace, alas! only to be destroyed by fire.</P>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">MINES AND MINING</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The richest gold mines in the world, and the most favourably situated.  There is gold in Siberia, but it is obtained amid the severities of the arctic region.  There are `Afric's golden sands,' but none but a negro can collect them.  The mines of Australia are devoid of water compared with those of California, and are more difficult to mine in consequence of the gold lying at a great depth.  In this state, the miner can work for ten months of the year with no other shelter than a tent, and no floor but the bare ground.  For six months he can live under his leafy <HI REND="italics">ramade</HI>
098.sgm:<P>In the early days, a party say of four or six, left a mining camp.  A mule was packed with their tools, blankets, &amp; c. and a sack of flour and some bacon.  Each of them carried a rifle or gun, and thus equipped they plunged into the hitherto unknown and unprospected country.  I will presume them to know something about mining, and to be able to read `signs,' and wash a pan of dirt.  They follow one of the forks of a river, and prospect the gulches as they go along.  They notice where the river makes a sudden bend, and forthwith they cut down a few trees that grow on its banks and make a wing dam; that is to say, they shunt off the river where the eddy is, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>To-day it is very different; mining has become a science, a labour, a work wherein mere animal force alone will not suffice; a work requiring brain, patience, and capital; and it is of this last, which has personally come under my observation that I proceed to speak.  Gold, silver, and quicksilver are the principal products of the country, and it is with gold that I will begin.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Gold mines may be divided into two generic heads--placer mines and quartz mines--all others are subservient to one or the other of these.  In placer mining the gold is found with gravel, sand, clay, or other foreign <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Water is the most precious commodity in California, and nature has bountifully supplied her with it.  There are the American, Sacramento, Yuba, Feather, Bear, Tuolumne, Stanislaus, San Joaquim, and many other rivers running through the different mining regions, the head-waters of which are brought by flumes or ditches to supply the hydraulic or sluice washings.  These two latter are alone employed in placer mining.  A sluice is a large trough of strong timber, into which the pay dirt is thrown, and a stream of water passed through.  The trough is slightly inclined, the angle being varied according to the nature of the diggings.  The general width of the sluice is from a foot and a half to four feet, and its depth from eighteen inches to two feet.  It is sometimes a mile long.  The end of each trough fits into the end of the one immediately after it, and the whole is sufficiently raised from the ground to allow the miners to turn the dirt over as the water runs through it.  The bottom of the sluice is covered with what are termed riffle bars, that is, transverse pieces of wood which catch the heavy gold as the water separates it from the earth.  These riffles are of many shapes and devices.  Sometimes they are merely strips of wood nailed across.  In others, round pieces of wood made of sawn sections of a tree are laid on the bottom, touching each other at points in the circumference, the intervening holes being the traps for the gold.  This is the best sort as they protect the bottom of the sluice from being worn away by the stones and gravel, and are easily taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:up and replaced.  The sluice being pretty well filled with dirt almost along its entire length, the water is turned on.  It dissolves the finer particles of clay and dirt, washes away the sand, rolls down the stones and boulders, for everything is shovelled, and men stand all along to throw out the stones and gravel after they are washed quite clean.  When the water has been running a certain time quicksilver is introduced at the head of the flume, which works its way slowly downwards, all through the dirt, gathering the particles of fine gold in its course, and forming an analgam which sinks into one of the riffle holes.  Were the gold coarse the quicksilver would not be wanted; but as every species of earth is thrown into the sluice, from the top dirt down to that resting on the bed rock, of necessity much fine gold is mixed with it, for as a general maxim it may be laid down that surface dirt contains only fine gold, and the deeper you go the coarser the gold becomes.  Well, man and water go on working away all day, he supplying the waste made by the water, and the quicksilver goes stealing about picking up stray particles, and the boulders are jerked out with a blunt fork when they get bright and clean.  Young miners use their fingers at first for that purpose, but they soon leave off when the cracks come in their hands.  This goes on sometimes for a fortnight, sometimes for a month, the sluice being watched at night, for there are always inquisitive people who like to peep into the riffles, and have no scruple at helping themselves.  At the end of this fortnight or month, called a `run,' comes the cleaning up.  No more dirt is thrown in, and the water is allowed to flow till it runs out of the end quite clear.  The riffles are taken up one after another, and that which has lodged in them washed down until it can be scooped up with a kind of large spoon and put into a pan.  This is the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Ground sluicing is a primitive but very rapid way of mining.  Suppose a small dry gulch runs up the sides of the hill, water is brought to its head and flushed along it, while workmen stir up the bottom as the stream flows along, so as to wash away the clay and sand and gravel, and leave the gold comparatively bare.  This is rather a wasteful method of mining, and can only be used when the gulch is rich and the gold coarse.</P>
098.sgm:<P>But the most powerful placer mining agent is the hydraulic power.  A stream of water is led to a small reservoir connecting with a hose of from four to ten inches in diameter.  This hose is made of very heavy duck sometimes strengthened with iron hands.  The nozzle is like that of a fire or garden engine narrowing to its end.  Two men hold it, the water is let on.  The nozzle is turned towards the side of a hill and immediately it begins to melt away.  Great care, however, must be taken not to bring too much of the overhanging cliff down at once.  The whole system is undermining or sapping the base, so they play away below, and with the usual improvidence of miners and anxiety to bring down as much earth as possible, they frequently go too far and get buried.  When that is the case they have to be washed out in their turn.  It is incredible what this hydraulic power will perform.  At Timbuctoo miles of the mountains' sides are washed away.  The Yuba, into which run all the tailings, or waste earth, has its bed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>There are at present more than five thousand miles of artificial watercourses in California for mining purposes.  The average size of these ditches is eight feet wide at the top, six at the bottom, and three feet deep, with a grade of from twelve to eighteen feet to the mile.  These flumes traverse the mountains in all directions, sometimes crossing ravines on the delicate yet strong trestle work that the Americans have brought to perfection.  Along the Truckee ditch a flume eight miles long hangs on the side of a can&tilde;on.  Of late iron pipes have been used; formerly all the flumes were of inch and a half planking.  These ditches have cost in the neighbourhood twenty millions of dollars; and they have rendered mines available for working that would have remained untouched by pick or shovel to this day.</P>
098.sgm:<P>An inch of water in the mines is not a very well defined measurement, for the methods of delivering it differ in almost every camp.  In many instances an opening, one inch high and twenty-four long, is made with a pressure of six inches, which would give twenty-four inches.  So that here an inch of water is that quantity which passes through an aperture of a square <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>It is not easy to estimate the average cost of washing by the hydraulic process, as the nature of the material acted upon varies so considerably.  The earth may be hard or soft, stubborn cement or loose gravel.  With one pipe, of an inch and a half or two inches diameter, a boy can excavate and wash as much earth in one day as ten men.  In some gravel claims the same force will wash as much as twenty men could do.  At other places the strong cement has to be blasted before the hose is brought into play.  In some claims one pipe will bring down as much material as three pipes will wash away, whilst others require three pipes to bring down that which one pipe can wash away.  By washing away, I mean of course passing the loosened dirt through the sluice.  Take for example a claim that uses 300 inches of water, and estimate, as is generally done, an inch of water to be equivalent to a supply of 145 lbs. a minute, or 8,700 lbs. an hour, then 300 inches will supply 15,000 tons in a day of twelve hours.  It is calculated that the water removes one-fifth of its weight, which would give 3,000 tons of earth displaced daily, and that by two men, giving 1,500 tons to the man.  The following calculation has been made of the relative expense of washing a cubic yard of gravel:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>By hand in the tin pan, about $15.00</P>
098.sgm:<P>By the rocker, about 4.00</P>
098.sgm:<P>By the Long Tom, about 1.00</P>
098.sgm:<P>By the sluice, about .34</P>
098.sgm:<P>By hydraulic washing, about .06</P>
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098.sgm:<P>This includes the cost of the water.  The Blue Gravel Company, at Smartsville, used more than seventeen millions of gallons to wash 980,000 cubic yards of gravel, and paid for water during forty-three months $57,261, paying at the rate of fifteen cents per inch, and the cubic yard of gravel costing less than six cents to wash.  In the Middle Yuba district, where water is twenty cents, it costs seven and a half cents to mine a cubic yard.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Another branch of mining is sometimes practised on a large scale.  This is called 'tail sluicing.'  I think that I have before stated, that tailings are the earth, stones, and gravel that flow out of the sluice, and which, though treated as worthless, were always known to contain more or less gold.  Now many companies working the same lode frequently unite to make a tail-race, which must have sufficient fall in order to carry of the refuse matter; whereupon another company gathers these tailings, and passes them through another course of sluicing.  The following description of one of the largest of them will suffice for all.  It is called the Teaff sluice, and is situated at Dutch Flat.  The total length is 5,500 feet of this 2,500 feet are 51/2 feet wide and 26 inches deep in a tunnel; the remaining 3,000 feet are 6 feet wide.  It cost 55,000 dollars, and was four years making.  Several companies deliver their tailings into it with an aggregate of 1,550 inches of water.  The bottom is paved with boulders fourteen inches deep, and the incline is ten inches in twelve feet.  The descent is broken at intervals of 120 feet by drops or dumps two feet and a half high in the tunnel and five feet outside.  These serve to break up the masses of cemented pebbles and thus liberate the gold.  The force of the current in this sluice is such that boulders of rock ten and fifteen inches and even twenty inches in diameter would be swept along at the rate of nearly ten miles an hour.  This constant pounding and attrition of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>From fifteen to twenty pounds of quicksilver are put into the sluice every evening, but as the sluice continually catches that metal swept from the claims above, the owners are never obliged to buy any.  They take out more than they put in.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Rock suitable for paving is also selected out of the boulders swept down from the other sluices.  They are stopped by a strong iron grating placed across the mouth of the sluice in an inclined position.  The spaces between the bars measure eight inches, so that only the largest boulders are excluded.  A Chinaman standing by the grate examines every boulder that stops, and saves those suitable for pavement.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I had no means of ascertaining the earnings of this company but they are believed to be considerable, as a great deal of fine gold escapes from the claims above, and the company have comparatively little labour to perform, that being already done for them.</P>
098.sgm:<P>One hydraulic company, I was informed, washed 224,000 cubic feet of dirt in six days, using two hundred inches of water, and employing ten men.  The wages of the men amounted, at four dollars a day each, to two hundred and forty dollars; the water cost three hundred dollars; the waste of quicksilver and sluice about a hundred dollars more, making a total expenditure of six hundred and fifty dollars.  They cleared up 3,000 dollars.  The dirt contained one cent and a fifth per cubic foot.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I should have mentioned that the amalgam of gold and quicksilver is retorted after it is taken from the sluice, and the quicksilver thereby saved after having been separated from the gold.  Some miners less careful only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The action of quicksilver on gold is very curious.  It does not mix with it like silver or copper, but as it were granulates it, separating the gold into minute particles, so that it crumbles to the touch and loses its malleability, which is never restored till the quicksilver is driven off by heat.</P>
098.sgm:<P>River mining was formerly much in favour in California.  It is the most risky of all the styles of mining.  The company either made a fortune or lost one, and being in the nature of gambling, and taking long odds, suited the Californian miner exactly.  It is impossible to prospect a river other than on its banks.  The only guide is the geological formation.  For example a river rushes through a narrow gorge, and on emerging spreads out to more than its usual breadth.  Here one may reasonably expect to find gold, which has been brought down as through a sluice.  Again; a ridge of rocks crosses the river, or rather the river flows over them.  They form in fact a natural riffle, and it can easily be supposed that gold will be found in the crevices above and below them.  In another place the water, after passing through a series of rapids, forms a bank of sand, mud, and gravel, which it has washed down.  This is called a bar, and is the pet speculation of the Californian miner.  No sooner had one found a bar in a river than he forthwith gathered his chums together and imparted his discovery.  They immediately sold their claims for what they would fetch, and set to work to turn the river.  Everything conspires to throw difficulties in the way of river mining.  It can only be done when the river is at its lowest.  All the snow must be melted in the mountains.  The work can hardly begin before June, and must be finished before September.  They set to work <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:with a will.  As many labourers as their means will allow are hired.  From daybreak to sunset there is no cessation of labour.  Slowly and surely the massive dam progresses.  A wide ditch is cut if possible in the bank of the river.  When, as is generally the case, the sides are too steep and rocky to allow of a canal being cut, a portion of the river must serve for that purpose.  At length, in the middle of August, the dam is finished.  The river flows by the side of its ancient bed to rejoin it about half a mile lower down.  The bed of the stream is bare.  The sluice boxes are laid along the centre.  Prospecting with the pan is going on in holes and crevices.  All hands are busy shovelling in the dirt.  The sluice box, deftly made in the dam, is opened.  For a week the water flows down the race--a week of hope and fear--a week the end of which will declare whether their labour and money have been spent in vain.  That such is often the case the names of many tell.  We meet with Poverty Bar, Last Chance, Greenhorn, &amp;c.  But, on the other hand, miners point exultingly to Yuba Dam, to Long Bar, and many others that have yielded millions.  But supposing our bar turns out to be rich.  Washing is neglected, unless the force is large, for the more important task of strengthening the dam against the floods of winter.  For the rains will be on soon, and the springs will begin to rise.  Very few dams withstand the winter torrents.  They don't mind; they know that the gold is there; the claim remains their own, and next year they patiently recommence their labours, and so continue until the whole river bed is worked out.  It is a strange sight these river beds with the huge boulders, and the crevices full of gravel, and pools of standing water, and little streamlets trickling about, for the bed is never quite dry; and there is a strange feeling of being below the level of the water, for over the dam you see the banked-up river, and have a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>So it is that to-day engineering and mechanical skill have supplanted the old gold washing machines.  From the hand washing pan (battea) of the Mexican and Indian came the rocker or cradle of the White man; that was improved to the Long Tom ending with the sluice and hydraulic power.  And with these changes the nature of the mines is changed.  There is no longer a scraping of the surface until what was called bed rock is reached; the whole surface of gulch and ravine and creek and flat is worked out, or at most so little left as to be deemed only worth working by the Chinese.  A peculiar instance of how thoroughly the placer diggings have been worked is evidenced in Shaw's Flat, an exceedingly rich plateau in the county of Tuolumne.  In 1851 this was a beautiful level park, studded with trees, among them many noble cedars.  In 1860 the whole plain, from four to five miles across, was one scene of gaunt desolation.  The entire dirt had been washed away, not a single tree remained.  Shaw's Flat, once proverbial for the richness of its mines, was silent and solitary.  The bed rock was composed of limestone.  The head-waters of the river Stanislaus had been brought to bear upon the soil, and had washed every grain of it through Dragoon gulch into the lowlands.  Nothing remained but the white bare rocks that looked like tombstones, the more so as they were of all shapes, some of them flat, others peaked, others needle-shaped, and some arched.  A small town had sprung up during the brief and brilliant prosperity of that place, but not a sign of life was now seen in the cluster of wooden houses.  They will stand there until some drunken traveller, either for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>At the foot of this table mountain flows Wood's Creek, of which mention has been already made.  No creek in California has yielded so universally and been so rich as this.  From its source in the mountains near Columbia to its junction with a tributary of the Stanislaus, it has been mined since the earliest days of California.  Small towns have been built on its banks, and the busiest of a most mixed population have swarmed all over its bed.  It is estimated that nearly equal to one year's production of all the mines of California has been taken out of this little creek and the gulches that run into it.  It has given rise to the question absurd as it may appear: Does gold grow?  For nine months of the year the bed of the river, its banks and gulches, are washed and scraped and sluiced and every pocket emptied.  Down comes the rain, and the snows melt, and the gentle creek is swollen to the importance of a river.  When the waters have subsided the gold is found in its wonted spots, not so rich as in the days of yore but still repaying the worker.  A company has lately been formed to sluice the whole creek from one end to the other.  It is urged that it is not yet half-worked out, that miners have never fairly gone down to the bed-rock, and so they are going to lay that bare also.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The working of theold river beds may be classed as a separate branch of mining.  I have partially alluded to one of them when treating of the hydraulic washing, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>But a still more striking phenomenon is presented by another of these primeval rivers.  It is covered by what is called `the dead table mountain.'  It runs from near Silver Mountain in Alpine to Knight's Ferry in Tuolumne county, and there disappears.  A stream of lava must have filled up the bed as well as the banks of this river, which at one side were precipitous.  Ages of climatic action, or more active agencies, have worn away these old banks, and we have the spectacle of a black wall of basalt winding its way through the country in some places from three to eight hundred feet sheer down, in all parts difficult to scale.  For seventy miles this type of a past mighty destruction pursues its serpentine course.  Its flat surface is a mass of loose scori&aelig;, rendering it very difficult and painful for walking.  Here and there, where a projecting crag has accumulated, a light soil may be seen, a hanging bush or scrub oak; but, in general, the burnt sides are utterly barren.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Under its feet, however, lies untold wealth, which these basaltic coffers render it very hard to get at.  The old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Another table mountain covering another river whose history belongs to geology, extends about seventy miles from Lassens Peak to Oroville.  Others have been traced in different parts of the state.  Wherever their beds could be worked, they have repaid the miner, showing conclusively one thing, that the gold formation is older than the upheaval of the Sierra Nevadas.  In some of these beds are found rounded boulders of lava and basalt, proving that volcanic action existed whilst they were living streams, and that it was not one general eruption that dried up their sources for ever.  The character of their beds also is different; that of the Big Blue Lead contains large quartz boulders, whilst that of San Juan is gravel, the pebbles not being larger than a small egg.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The like phenomenon was observed at an eruption of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>I will next draw attention to the quartz mines of California, her most enduring sources of wealth, and which are now receiving more particular attention and are being more rapidly developed in proportion as the placer mines are being worked out.  The supply of quartz in this state is inexhaustible.  The supply of gold-bearing quartz that will pay for working depends upon the cost of its extraction and crushing, as well as the nature of the machinery and processes employed.  Some mines pay at ten dollars a ton, others lose with ore at thirty dollars a ton.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The elevation of quartz lodes is from two thousand to ten thousand feet above the level of the sea.  Their course is the same as that of the dead rivers, namely from north-east to south-west.  They crop out in all parts of the surface of the country, on the sides of hills, at the botton of can&tilde;ons, and in the valleys.  Gold is found in large veins and small veins, in veins white as marble, and in others discoloured by the action of iron.  Sometimes the gold is visible to the naked eye, sometimes the contrary; and yet this latter may be the richest ore.  It is seldom that a vein continues rich for any considerable distance; there is invariably a fault or break, particularly if the vein have chimneys or pockets, which are spots in the vein where the ore is excessively rich.  The richest part of a lode of auriferous quartz is always on the lower side of the vein near the foot-wall.  The vein, if near the surface, is generally covered with loose fragments of disintegrated quartz.  The miners usually wash and pound <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>According to the official report there were in 1870, three hundred and thirty quartz mills in full operation in California.  The number of tons crushed by them was 1,045,791, and they consumed 211,971 inches of water per day.  This report cannot be absolutely relied upon as the millowners and miners are now very chary about giving information for fear of the tax-gatherer.  One thing is certain, that the county of Nevada possesses one-fourth of all the mills in the fifty counties into which California is divided.  Indeed it may be said that Amador, Calaveras, Eldorado, Mariposa, Nevada, Placer, and Tuolumne are the quartz mining counties.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Amador is the smallest county in the state but has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:some famous mines in it, the most noted of which is the `Hayward,' now incorporated with other mines, under the title of the Amador Mining Company.  The history of this mine shows what pluck and perseverance will accomplish.  About 1856 Alvinso Hayward commenced work on this lode, and for two years continued sinking shafts, erecting machinery, and following the course of the vein.  The ore was poor, his funds were exhausted, but he was sure that he was on the right track, and would not be discouraged.  He went to all his friends for he had many, and begged, borrowed, and scraped up all the money he could.  All that went.  His credit was exhausted.  He could not even buy a pick.  He had no money to pay his workmen, he was in arrear with them.  One by one they withdrew, save one or two who were infected with their master's enthusiasm.  He worked like one of them, suffered privations as they did, but still the mine yielded nothing.  At length when worn out bodily and mentally, and almost on the point of giving up the mine in despair, he struck the main lode.  Years had passed away in the meantime, but at length the reward had come.  Of course all was now plain-sailing.  Money is never wanting when money is in sight.  In a short time Mr. Hayward's income was $50,000 a month.  To-day he is worth millions, and has never forgotten those who stood by him in the dark days.  Among these was a man of the name of Coleman, who had kept a huckster's shop at Amador.  He had let Hayward have flour and provisions in limited quantities, for his means were limited, unto the end.  Hayward invited him to San Francisco, obtained for him an agency for a large coal-oil establishment in the east, set him up in business with himself as partner, putting in $200,000 as capital, and the firm of Hayward and Coleman prospered exceedingly, the sole charge of the business being left to Coleman; who, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The Amador mine is a continuous vein, yielding a regular grade of ore of little more than twenty-one dollars to the ton.  This is considered the best species of rock as it goes on in the same way for years.  The mine is 1,850 feet long, and the vein of quartz is enclosed on the east by a wall of granite, and on the west by one of slate.  The product for the year 1869-70 was $617,542, and the mill contains seventy-two stamps.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The opening out of this mine caused several other companies to work the continuation of the vein, and some three or four are doing so with the like success that crowned the labours of Mr. Hayward; so that he indirectly benefited the country at the same time he enriched himself.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The mines of Nevada county are chiefly indebted to the famous Grass Valley district for their reputation.  Grass Valley was the first to be worked for its quartz <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The system of mining here is called `the Grass Valley system,' which is acknowledged to be the most perfect at present in use.  I will endeavour to give a short explanation of it.  They have been fifteen years bringing it to its present state of completeness.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Formerly the amalgamation was formed in the battery, that is, the quicksilver was added to the quartz whilst it was being crushed to a powder, but in this process amalgamation is not practised in battery, but the quartz is crushed to such a fineness as to permit its passage through the finest screens, and thence over blankets which are washed out every fifteen minutes.  These blanket washings are passed through two very simple amalgamators, where a revolving cylinder with rakes stirs the mass in a bed of mercury.  The skimmings of the amalgamating boxes are now treated with chemicals, and here one-third of the gross yield is obtained.  The pulp from blankets and amalgamators has, in the meantime, passed through two simple contrivances called `rubbers,' where further amalgamation is produced by washing and grinding cylinders covered with amalgamated copper plates (plates coated with quicksilver), which are moved horizontally by vibrating arms; thence through sluice-boxes with riffles of quicksilver to a discharge-box with self-acting gates, which is situated immediately over the concentrating room.  Here commences the separation of the sulphurets which, still mixed with the sand and water, now flow through a concentrator eighteen feet in diameter.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>This Idaho mine is an extension of the famous Eureka, which is chiefly owned by two brothers of the name of Watt.  They are Scotch, and have been in Grass Valley almost from the beginning, having originally had charge of the machinery of a quartz mill.  The original length of the Eureka lode was 1,680 feet, but by purchase of an adjoining claim it is increased to 3,680 feet.  The old Eureka yielded in 1869 $361,211 net profits to its owners.  1870 must not be taken into account, as it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Various experiments have been made, and many different apparatus tried, for saving the finest particles of gold which escape in the common stamp process and pass off in the tailings.  The following method by Mr. James T. M`Dougall, of Grass Valley, may be interesting.  Mr. M`Dougall is engaged on the waste tailings of the Eureka and Idaho mines above-mentioned.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The contrivance consists of twelve troughs, each twelve feet by two and a half, inclined at a slight angle.  The bottom of the troughs, or sluice boxes, are covered with copper plates amalgamated, and thickly studded with square iron pegs, about four inches in height and half an inch square.  Over these pegs are placed closely-fitting copper caps, their outer surface being amalgamated, and arranged in such a manner that a corner is presented to the stream.  In other words the diagonal of the pegs and caps is parallel with the sides of the sluice-box.  The waste water from the Eureka and Idaho, from which the owners have extracted all the gold that they possibly could with their blankets, copper plates, rubbers, amalgamated pans, &amp;c., is turned through the troughs I have described.  Striking against the pegs, of which the troughs contain 5,000, the water boils and surges and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The principal mines in Grass Valley are the Eureka, Empire, Idaho, North Star, Union Hill, Wisconsin, Hartery, Perrin's, M`Cauley's, Gold Hill, and Laremer's, and these yielded nearly two million dollars in 1869.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Grass Valley is the most thriving little town in California.  It is prettily situated in a hollow, the sides of which were formerly covered with fine trees, which have all disappeared for fuel and building; but now the young trees are growing up, the place does not look so barren, but still the ugly stumps meet one everywhere.  The neighbouring town of Nevada is a large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The description of one series of quartz mines is the description of all.  Wherever they are carefully and economically worked they have proved an income, if not a fortune, to their owners.  The development of them is yet in its infancy, and districts as yet unknown may rival the Grass Valley district.</P>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">MINES IN THE STATE OF NEVADA</HI>
098.sgm:<P>No mining districts on the Pacific slope have of late years excited more attention than those of the state of Nevada, particularly the mines of the famous Comstock lode and White Pine, both of these sections of country having rich silver mines in contradistinction to the gold fields of California.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The Comstock Lode has up to this time been traced more than twenty thousand feet, or nearly four miles.  It runs nearly due north and south, and is popularly divided into three portions, the northern, the middle, and the southern; or, as others style it, the Ophir, the Virginia, and the Gold Hill.  On these two latter portions stand the towns of Virginia and Gold Hill; literally stand on them, for the tunnels and drifts run under the towns, sometimes with so thin a separation that, as happened in Virginia City, two or three houses and a church paid a visit to the depths of the Gould and Curry mine, or at least went part of the way down.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The northern or Ophir division extends from the Utah to the Chollar Potosi mine, a length of 12,170 feet, and was the portion first worked, it being there that the first rich ore was discovered.  This portion contains four distinctly separate bodies of ore, or chimneys as they are sometimes called, on all of which work is still going on.  The first body north contains ore of a low grade running from three to fifteen dollars a ton.  There are thousands of tons uncovered and unworked in this body.  The Sierra Nevada is the principal mine in it.  In the next of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>These three mines are down about a thousand feet, and lately two of them, the Hale and Norcross and Savage, have struck a fresh body of ore of considerable extent, but not of such good quality as in the upper levels, being mixed with baser metal.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The fourth body contains the Chollar Potosi mine which is sunk to a depth of 1,220 feet below the surface, where the owners found no encouragement to go deeper.  The mine is a fair, not rich mine, with ore worth from sixteen to thirty dollars a ton, the low grade ore preponderating.  This failure in the deep levels has led to more careful exploration of those nearer the surface, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Next comes the middle or Virginia lode, containing the Bullion, Exchequer, Alpha, Treglone, and Imperial North.  These have all been respectable mines, but are now, according to present appearances, worked out.  They are now mining back ground, and occasionally a body of ore is met with which gives a temporary flash of excitement that soon subsides.  They are all of them groping away at their lower levels from 1,000 to 1,400 feet deep, but without much success.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I will leave them, and turning sharp round the base of Mount Davidson come to the Southern or Gold Hill mines, the rich, irregular, coquettish, delusive mines of Gold Hill.  More speculation in shares and more fortunes have been made and lost in these mines than in any of the others.  Yellow Jacket, Crown Point, and Kentuck were supposed to be under the control of the Bank of California.  The bank made all the advances for working them, and in return they were obliged to ship all their bullion through the bank.  That joint stock corporation having a majority of votes could elect what officers it pleased for these mines, could control reports about ore, had first news of any rich strike; in fact, had information that enabled it to buy or sell according to its judgment.  Then came one morning a telegram, `The Yellow Jacket is on fire,' followed by other telegrams: `The fire has extended to the Crown Point and Kentuck.'  There was great loss of life in the lower levels, as they were cut off by the fire which commenced in the third level.</P>
098.sgm:<P>At the date of the fire (April 7, 1869) Yellow Jacket had 5,000 tons of twenty-seven dollar ore exposed on its nine hundred foot level.  Kentuck had 12,000 tons of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>All the observed phenomena tend to indicate that the present deepest workings of the Comstock lode are in a comparatively barren zone of the vein, which seems moreover to be characterised by a change in the gangue, from predominant quartz to predominant carbonate and sulphate of lime.  The appearance of limestone in the vein may be connected directly with a change in its metalliferous character.  It is quite a common phenomenon to find the zone between two sorts of gangue to be comparatively barren, but this appearance need not discourage the expectation of finding new metalliferous deposits under it.</P>
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098.sgm:<P>The barren zone, now penetrated by the deeper workings on the Comstock, is either one of transition, or one of temporary variation.  The quartzose gangue has by no means disappeared.  It only threatens to do so, or at least to become permanently subordinate.  The line on the other hand threatens to become permanently predominant, and has thus far proved unfavourable to the occurrence of ore in the forms and combinations hitherto characteristic of the vein.  In this mixed condition of things, the vein matter being neither one thing nor the other, it is not surprising that the portion of ore has so greatly diminished.  Indeed I may say, for the purpose of illustration, that the calcareous minerals are, as it were, themselves playing the part of ore to the quartz.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Therefore we may reasonably expect one of two things: either the unpleasant mixture of lime will prove to be local and temporary, and the vein will resume again in depth its original matrix, or the change now threatened will continue until the carbonate and sulphate of lime are permanently predominant as gangue.</P>
098.sgm:<P>In the former case the chances are in favour of a briefer continuance of the barren interval and of a subsequent recurrence of ore-bodies similar in character and distribution to those already exploited.  In favour of this supposition, we have the universal prevalence of quartz as a vein material through the silver-bearing regions, and the comparatively infrequent appearances in large quantities, under such conditions, of the carbonate or sulphate of lime.  Moreover there has not been observed, so far as I know, any decided change in the country rock, such as might be expected (though not of absolute necessity) to herald or accompany a complete change in gangue.  There is some encouragement for this view, in the fact that in mines lying a mile and a half and two miles east of the Comstock, the veins contain in their southern portion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>In case of the complete change of the gangue and the permanent prevalence of lime, the character of the ores and the manner of their distribution would probably suffer a complete change also.  To carry out my former illustration I will say, that the ores in depth would have to bear the same relation to lime that the present ores bear to quartz.  This relation science cannot now actually determine.  It is surmised to be partly chemical, partly electrical and partly mechanical; and it is certainly dependent also upon the manner in which the vein fissure was filled as well as the succession and relative duration of the different entrances of vein-matter.  The nature of the ore that might be expected on a lime gangue on the Comstock, is however practically indicated by the modifications already observed in those parts of the vein where lime forms a considerable portion of the gangue; and judging from that we may expect more widely disseminated ore of lower grade, containing more base metal, and more difficult of treatment than has in general been hitherto the case.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I am indebted for the above as well as for much valuable information to the able report on Mines and Mining by Professor Rossiter W. Raymond, editor of the `Engineering and Mining Journal,' New York.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I may as well mention here that the <HI REND="italics">gangue</HI>
098.sgm: is the mineral or earthy substance inclosing the metallic ore in the vein, and <HI REND="italics">country rock</HI>
098.sgm:<P>At the end of October, 1871, the company had penetrated 2,450 feet, chiefly through hard porphyry.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The tunnel will be fourteen feet wide by twelve high, and will have a double track railroad to run the cars in and out.  The cars will carry five tons, and be drawn by a wire rope, worked by a stationary engine at the tunnel's mouth.  The whole work will be finished in about two years, and the cost will be three millions of dollars.  This undertaking if carried out will be most interesting in a geological point of view, and will effectually determine the question as to the nature of the Comstock lode two thousand feet below the surface.  That this great fissure does extend deep into the bowels of the earth no one doubts, and human ingenuity cannot pierce its depths; at the same time the Sutro tunnel will prospect sufficiently to enable the miner to judge whether he is warranted in sinking deeper or working up from the tunnel to connect with his shaft overhead.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I incline to think that the palmy days of the Comstock are over. So much of vein as has been worked displayed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>After all the Comstock lode has done its duty in contributing to the wealth of nations.  For nine years it has averaged a yearly production of more than eleven millions of dollars.  The Ophir group has given ten millions; the Gould and Curry constellation fifty millions, and Gold Hill forty-five millions of dollars.  This has been drawn from less than one-fourth of the actual face of the lode, being all that, under present costs of working, would give a profit.  With increased facilities, an immense body of low grade ore, ranging from eight to twelve dollars to the ton, would be brought into play.  The first step to reduction in charges has been taken by the mills themselves.  They have considerably lowered the price of crushing.  The second step is in a more perfect manipulation of the ores.  At present the loss is fully twenty-five per cent.  The third desideratum is railroad communication with the outside world.  The last has been inaugurated by the construction of the first section of the Virginia and Truckee Railroad, eighteen miles from Virginia to the Carson river.  There is no water at the Comstock, and almost all the mills for crushing the ore are on that river.  Formerly the ore had to be carted along the rough roads at great expense from the mine to the mill.  Now it is dumped into the train of waggons, and carried to its destination at one quarter the expense.  It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The Sutro tunnel is one of those gigantic schemes that only a valuable prize like the Comstock could inspire.  This tunnel commences at a point some ninetteen thousand feet from the line of outcroppings of the Comstock.</P>
098.sgm:<P>There are other mines outside the Comstock which under careful management and reduced rates for crushing will pay very well.  Such is the Flowery district in the low lands west of the great lode, which has twelve to fifteen dollar ores.  In this mine the principal matrix is quartz; whilst in the Occidental, more to the south, lime predominates.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Some three miles south from Gold Hill is Devil's Gate, a remarkable cleft in the trap rock, through which the road passes.  Here some mines have been unprofitably worked.  Silver City is about half a mile further on, and near here is the Daney mine, which, at one time, was in great favour on the Stock Exchange, but has fallen away considerably of late although it is still worked, and now and then gives out fitful signs of life.  The Julia is a humble dependent of this mine, and follows the fortunes of the Daney.  Its principal occupation for the last two years has been levying assessments, and the chief occupation of the secretary, advertising the shares as delinquent.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Such is a brief description of the great Comstock lode as it is to-day, but how different from the scene in former <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:days.  In 1857 mysterious parties were seen going along the Truckee and through the peaceful agricultural village of Carson, where rough Western men congregated of an evening or on Sundays to read the newspapers, talk politics, and drink whiskey.  These parties all directed their steps to the foot of the peak of Mount Davidson, which rises in isolated grandeur and barrenness above the surrounding hills.  They were not farmers or they wouldn't go to that bleak waste, where only one or two streams painfully trickled over the bare stones.  They were not miners exactly, for there were city faces among them, witness Mr. Donald Davidson, after whom the hill was named, and who, spite of his sixty winters, was the first to scale its steep sides and plant a staff on the spot, and the broad cloth of Judge H. was ill-adapted for the mountains.  However, the next year, the mystery was solved.  Some Mexicans, who owned the only spring of water, sold it to a company for a strip of mining land they themselves selected, and which was portion of a large district taken up by the company.  These same Mexicans had previously helped the company to sink prospecting shafts and generally develope the lode.  So it was, that simultaneously the Ophir and the Mexican mines were opened.  The Mexicans, with that knowledge of indications that seems almost inherent to them, had the richest strip of the whole section, and very soon began to turn out the most beautiful specimens of silver ore--a greyish purple rock, fairly bursting with silver, and very heavy in the hand.  Of course the thing could not long be kept a secret.  Machinery and lumber had to be transported over the Sierra Nevadas.  A road had to be made, workmen had to be transported.  Ore was sent to San Francisco to be essayed, and very soon the excitement began.  The railroad to Folsom was one stream of cars, carrying passengers, goods, tools, and machinery.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>1860-61 saw this town in its palmy days.  Shares of impracticable mines, in impossible places, found eager buyers.  Wherever an outcrop of foreign rock appeared, the claim was taken up, so that poor old storm-beaten Mount Davidson was covered over with notices of claims, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>Wild as it is, and treeless and bleak as is the country, the view from the line of the Comstock ledge looking east is awfully grand, especially when the setting sun falls on the high mountains in Humboldt county.  A thousand feet or more below you stretches what appears to be a valley, but what is, in reality, a more gentle grade of the elevation you are standing upon.  Miles away and the mountains begin to rise again, and they pile and pile upon one another, all of a clear purple, until the eye looks over them into space.  For the air is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>At that time Ophir was $5000 a share, Gould and Curry one-third more.  Enormous dividends were being paid; great fortunes were amassed, and yet of all those who flourished and revelled and lavished their money like water, very few indeed have any of it left.  They didn't know when to leave off.  When the mines began to grow less rich, and dividends began to diminish, nay when even the ominous word assessment began to be whispered, they would not take warning and realise.  They stuck to the ship and have gone down with her.  Many of them hypothecated their stock for half its value, in order to buy more in that or in other mines; the consequence was, that when the fall came their stock was all sold, for San Francisco money-lenders know nothing about prospects, have nothing sanguine in their temperaments, nor any feeling in their hearts.  They look at the market value and act accordingly.</P>
098.sgm:<P>To-day Ophir is $23 and levying assessments, and Gould and Curry $105, neither of them having paid any dividends for some years.</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">WHITE PINE MINES</HI>
098.sgm:<P>I HAVE already incidentally mentioned the White Pine district.  Next to the mines of the Comstock, those of White Pine have attracted the greatest attention of late years.  All the signs and indications of the Comstock fail in this district as the majority of the deposits are connected with the stratification of the limestone.  So far no deep fissure veins have been discovered, and the ore is found in layers, up to two hundred feet in width.  In one respect only the ore of White Pine resembles that of the Comstock.  It is silver, but there the resemblance stops.  The whole of Treasure Hill is limestone, but mixed and jumbled up with broken fragments of slate, brecchia, or angular fragments of silicified limestone, cemented together with calc spar, which latter generally fills up all the interstices, but which, as it does not contain any silver, is probably the latest infiltration.  The silver ore is generally in the form of a chloride, but frequently as a sulphuret, and is even found as native silver incrusting the brecchia, penetrating the crevices in threads and films, as well as aggregated here and there in chambers or pockets.  And although the occurrence of rich bodies of ore, like those of the Eberhardt mine, is not frequent, yet the White Pine limestone is a favourable matrix for such, and they may be found at any time or place where cavities large enough to contain them have been formed by the disintegration or solution or erosion of the rock, and where the metalliferous fluids have had sufficient access.</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The ore is spread so irregularly in the White Pine Mines, that it is not astonishing that more than ten thousand claims are recorded as having been located, claims which yield from a few hundred pounds of ore per month up to those which give thirty or forty tons a day.  The whole district embraces an area of about twelve square miles, and the principal towns are Hamilton, the county seat, Treasure City, and Sherman, containing respectively 5000, 4000, and 2000 inhabitants; add to this about four thousand scattered about on the hills, and we have about 15,000 as the floating population of this part of Nevada.  The principal mines are at the top of Treasure Hill, White Pine Mountains.  This is a broad range, consisting sometimes of two or three parallel ridges, at one place close together, at another far apart.  The summits of the two nearest ridges of White Pine Mines are five miles apart.  Between these two summits rises Treasure Hill, 1,500 feet from its immediate base, but 10,000 feet above the level of the sea.  Its base from north to south extends three miles, from east to west only one mile.  The summit is a narrow ridge from north to south, a mile and a half long, terminating sharply at its southern end by a clear cut of precipitous descent; at the north it is very steep, but not so sheer down to the base.  The body of the mountain, as I said before, is composed of limestone strata, which was originally horizontal, but was subsequently lifted, so that the strata now slope at an angle of 30&deg; toward the west.  The east end consequently presents all the jagged ends of these strata so upheaved.  It is among these croppings that the mine called Hidden Treasure is situated, the Emersley also and the Pocotillo, all of them magnates in the market.</P>
098.sgm:<P>At the same time this upheaval of the limestone beds was not gradual nor even.  Marks of resistance appear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:on the western slope, and fractured lines and long abrasions of the parent bed.  The upheaving force was unequal, so that where the greatest effort was made the rock is lifted higher, and the separated part has fallen under it as under a towering cliff.  And all along the edges of these broken prostrate ledges are the signs of the grating and grinding of the rocks, impotent to resist the Plutonic force that raised them from their level.  At the south end of this western slope there is one of these broken ledges forming a spur pointing heavenwards, and the fractured part almost retaining its original level.  Here is the <HI REND="italics">Eberhardt</HI>
098.sgm:<P>In another part of the west side is a ledge that has not been much acted upon by subterranean forces, and in consequence has not only preserved its lateral character, but any inequality arising from partial disturbance has been filled up by the erosion of the strata above.  This strata is unequal in its hardness, and being continually exposed to the action of the elements is consequently constantly loosened and carried down by the heavy rains or melting snows, and lodged upon this plateau, forming what is called Pogoniss Flat.  I must here explain that the word Pogoniss means in Indian one of those mild zephyrs before referred to, where, unless your hair is strongly rooted, you are liable to become bald on turning a corner; one of those gentle gales that leave no trace behind them of the swooped-up property, be it shanty or tent, save the place where it stood; in short, a White Pine hurricane, which blows about as often as it rains in England.  However, on this flat, underground and away from the captivating zephyr, men are mining in the Pogoniss, Othello, and Glacier mines.  Round the corner is another flat called Chloride Flat, and again Bromide <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>At the south end, on the west side of the summit, close to Treasure City, in fact, partly in the town itself, is the Aurora consolidated mine, which was located about the same time as the Eberhardt, namely, in the autumn of 1867.  After that comes the South Aurora, which has always been a popular mine.  Shafts have been sunk along its entire length (800 feet), and mineral found for 400 feet without intermission.  The Chloride Flat, before mentioned, has been taken up by a company, who have commenced work on a large scale.  This company is backed and controlled by the Bank of California.  It was found that the ore in this flat was deposited in horizontal strata, one overlying the other, separated only by sheets of limestone.  The consequence is that the manner of working is extremely simple.  A shaft is sunk, and when it strikes the layer of ore, drifts are run in all directions, and the mineral sent to the surface; when that is exhausted, the shaft again pierces the limestone until the miners' strike the silver ore again, when the process is repeated.  There is a certain cake made in France, containing alternate layers of sponge cake and jam, which exactly elucidates this mine, if one may compare small things with great, the jam being the ore <HI REND="italics">bien entendu</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The California, another noted White Pine mine, is about a mile from the Eberhardt.  It is very rich, both in chloride and bromide of silver, ranging from $300 to $1000 a ton in value.  There are hosts of other mines, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>At the south end of Treasure Hill, quite at its summit, an immense break runs east and west across the strata.  A chasm, 200 feet wide, was opened there at some distant epoch.  South of this chasm the ground is some 300 feet lower than at the northern side--is in fact comparatively level, forming a kind of shelf in the mountain.  In this chasm and on this shelf nature has placed the Eberhardt mine.  The whole chasm is filled with ore and gangue, the latter composed (as may be found in the lower levels of the Comstock) of limestone, quartz, and spar.  The ore proper is very irregularly deposited, lying sometimes in horizontal sheets, at other times occurring in the shape of pockets of various sizes and forms.  Large lumps of chloride of silver, weighing over a hundred pounds, are found so pure that a nail may easily be driven into any part of them, and a silver coin laid upon them and struck smartly with a hammer leaves its impression.  While there is a large quantity of ore of this exceeding richness, there is a hundred fold more of the value of about a hundred dollars a ton, wherein, of course, lies the real profit.  The Blue Belle shaft is one of the richest in the mine.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I mustn't leave out the Hidden Treasure however, for it has a romantic history, being shown to a compassionate blacksmith by a grateful Indian.  When the Indian took him, and showed the rough, worn, and twisted outcroppings, the honest man was so bewildered with the formation, that he could not understand how to locate his claim, and was obliged to confide his secret to a practical miner.  The deposit of ore is quite flat at the top, and then dips at an angle of forty-five degrees.  This mine is full of horn silver, which is a nearly pure chloride.  It is a good mine, and easily worked.</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The following is the average value of the ore of the mines above-named.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Name of Mine.<HSEP>Yield per ton.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Aurora      $92.25</P>
098.sgm:<P>Consolidated Chloride<HSEP>94.50</P>
098.sgm:<P>Eberhardt<HSEP>390.0</P>
098.sgm:<P>Hidden Treasure<HSEP>100.0</P>
098.sgm:<P>Mazeppa<HSEP>307.0</P>
098.sgm:<P>California<HSEP>150.0</P>
098.sgm:<P>The average value of the mines of any importance is about $98 a ton.</P>
098.sgm:<P>There are hundreds of mines scattered all over the district.  There are the base metal range, the mines about Hamilton City, &amp;c.  In fact, it may be laid down as a general axiom, that from Salt Lake City to the great desert of the Colorado is one rich belt of silver ore.  It extends from Washoe on the west to the land of the Mormons on the east, thence narrowing towards the range of the Humboldt Mountains it strikes that granite dyke of the North Colorado, which, with its wonderful can&tilde;on, cuts as it were the argentiferous belt only to allow it to appear again in the little-worked, but well-authenticated as to wealth, mines of New Mexico, called the San Diego Mines.  These lie on the frontiers of Arizona and New Mexico, in the midst of hostile Indians; and, although the ore costs from sixty to seventy dollars per ton to send it from the mine to the river, yet it pays the owners to transport it even at that exceedingly high rate.</P>
098.sgm:<P>North of the White Pine district come the territories of Montana and Idaho, where the ore and deposits are gold, and which I have not visited.</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">QUICKSILVER, ETC</HI>
098.sgm:<P>THE mines of quicksilver are chiefly confined to three companies.  The ore of quicksilver, as is well known, is called cinnabar, and rich specimens hold the mercury suspended in small globules.  It is from this cinnabar that the brilliant vermilion is obtained.  The ore itself is a sulphuret, and the process is, to drive off the sulphur with the fumes of the quicksilver, and then to allow the sulphur to escape and condense the mercury.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The principal mine is that of New Almaden in Santa Cruz county.  It was formerly owned by the English house of Barron &amp; Co., but after a prolonged and expensive lawsuit they were ejected by the United States Government, although they had been in undisturbed possession for many years.  It is now the property of an American company.  The production of quicksilver for the year 1869 was as follows:--</P>
098.sgm:<P><illus entity="a098-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
098.sgm:<P>The yield of quicksilver for 1868 was 43,000 flasks, or 3,268,000 lbs.  This difference of a million of pounds was caused as follows: In 1868 the New Almaden Mine was worked for the exclusive benefit of the shareholders, and consequently was driven to its utmost extent.  At the end of that year, however, the Bank of California and Messrs. Barron made a contract for five years with the New Almaden Company, to take all their quicksilver <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>Borax is obtained from a small lake of that name near Clear Lake.  The water of this lake is strongly impregnated with borate of soda, and the divers bring up large crystals of borax nearly pure from the bottom.  About four thousand cases are exported yearly, worth from twenty to twenty-five dollars a case.</P>
098.sgm:<P>There are many beds of asphaltum in the southern portion of the state.  They are extensively worked for pavements, roofing, &amp;c.  Petroleum has likewise been found and exploited in a slight degree, but not with any great success.</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">AGRICULTURE IN CALIFORNIA</HI>
098.sgm:<P>AFTER the first fierce excitement of the mines had subsided, and the population of California was numbered by thousands, men began to reflect that there were other ways of getting gold out of the earth than washing gravel for it.  Naturally the first application of labour in that direction was the cultivation of market gardens in the precincts of the large cities for the supply of the inhabitants.  A small field, part of which is now a florist's garden and the remainder covered with handsome dwellings, was pointed out to me at the Mission Dolores, about three miles from San Francisco, the owner of which made a comfortable fortune in 1850-51 by cabbages alone.  Another at Half Moon Bay cleared 10,000 dollars a year by his onions.  Potatoes, both sweet and Irish, were imported from Honolulu; and flour, barley, and oats from the Eastern States, Chili, and Australia.  Barley was more used for horse-feed than oats in those days, and the price frequently rose to eight cents a pound.  The flour market was entirely in the hands of speculators, who now and then forestalled the market to such an extent, that the price rose in the mines to fifteen and twenty dollars the hundred pounds, costing in Chili from five to six dollars.  Naturally the Western immigrants turned their attention to farming, and the fertile lands that line the eastern sides of the bay of San Francisco soon began to have their waving crops of grain.  The only difficulty in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The first shipment of flour and wheat was made to New York about 1856.  It found little favour at first with the eastern and English millers, it was so hard and gritty that they could not grind it; but by degrees it began to be appreciated, as it was found that the grain yielded more flour, and the bakers discovered that this flour absorbed more water than any other in the working it.  Consequently the demand increased, the millers altered their millstones to grind this dry hard wheat, and to-day California wheat ranks as high as any in the markets of the world.  The following table will show the increase in the export of this article.  It is taken from the circular of the leading corn-broker in San Francisco.</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Export of California Wheat for the past Eleven Years from June to June</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Wheat.<HSEP> Flour.</P>
098.sgm:<P>100 lb. sacks.<HSEP>Barrels, 200 lbs.</P>
098.sgm:<P>1861<HSEP>1,528,226<HSEP>179,652</P>
098.sgm:<P>1862<HSEP>775,553<HSEP>82,601</P>
098.sgm:<P>1863<HSEP>1,159,748<HSEP>141,488</P>
098.sgm:<P>1864<HSEP>984,941<HSEP>158,225</P>
098.sgm:<P>1865<HSEP>23,818<HSEP>52,424</P>
098.sgm:<P>1866<HSEP>1,044,826<HSEP>249,857</P>
098.sgm:<P>1867<HSEP>3,642,505<HSEP>485,493</P>
098.sgm:<P>1868<HSEP>3,773,002<HSEP>426,157</P>
098.sgm:<P>1869<HSEP>4,373,213<HSEP>459,923</P>
098.sgm:<P>1870<HSEP>4,864,590<HSEP>354,106</P>
098.sgm:<P>1871<HSEP>3,583,124<HSEP>194,763</P>
098.sgm:<P>Thus it will be seen, that although there have been fluctuations consequent chiefly upon high prices in California, forbidding shipments, the export of California cereals in good years has been steadily on the increase.  This year's shipments will show a great falling off.  The season has been one of the driest ever known in the state, and coming on the heels of a past dry year, the effect on the farming interests has been most disastrous.  Last year showed a deficiency in receipts over the year preceding of 1,900,000 dollars, notwithstanding a much larger breadth of land was put into grain than the year before; and this year, although more than a million of acres has been planted in wheat alone, which under favourable circumstances would have produced over and above the requirements of the country, a surplus for export of something like 600,000 tons, will barely leave 100,000 tons for that purpose.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Up to November 1869 no class of working-men in the world were in better condition than the agriculturists of California.  They had had quite a succession of favourable seasons; they had realised good prices for their farm products of every description; they were not only free from debt, but had a large aggregate of realised capital <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>With all this bad year, California is not otherwise than prosperous.  Suppose that she exports 100,000 tons of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>Of the 160,000 square miles composing the area of California about one-third are arable, whereof about 16,000 are in the coast valleys, 30,000 in the lowlands of the Sacramento basin, 12,000 in the foot-hills and valleys of the Sierra Nevada, and 2,000 in the Klamath basin.  The rest is desert and mountain.  This amount of tillable land is equal to 40,000,000 acres, and hardly a million and a half acres are actually under cultivation for all purposes, including orchards, gardens, &amp;c.  It is true that a portion of this land, say one-fourth of it, is not so rich as the generality of land, in this part of the world, and at present a large amount is too far removed from a market to render its cultivation profitable.  This objection is being rapidly done away with by the network of railroads that are extending themselves all over the state.  Another serious impediment, however, to farming in California is the insecurity of titles.  Partly by fraud, partly by mortgage, almost the whole of the old Spanish grants have passed into the hands of the Americans.  To-day innumerable claimants arise in the persons of the numberless descendants of these Mexicans, and it is not an unfrequent thing to see in an action to quiet title, one plaintiff and from a hundred and fifty to two hundred defendants; as, for instance, John Smith <HI REND="italics">v</HI>
098.sgm:. Jesus Maria Castro, Conception Castro, &amp;c., and all the tribe of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:Castros married and unmarried, their wives, their children, the collateral branches, all must be made parties to the suit, for if unfortunately a single defendant be omitted, then some sharp practitioner buys his claim, and forth-with commences an action for a two-hundredth undivided share of one-fifth of the whole estate, sometimes twenty leagues in extent, and thus a cloud is cast on the whole.  Another drawback is, that all the best lands are now in the hands of the great capitalists and railroad corporations.  The government price is a dollar and a quarter an acre, the purchaser not to pre-empt more than a hundred and sixty acres.  But there are certain things called school-warrants, that is to say, so many sections out of every district are set apart by the Government for the purpose of being sold, and the produce applied for the support of the public schools.  These warrants were all bought up and the lands <HI REND="italics">covered</HI>
098.sgm:<P>There are certain tablelands among the Sierras that are fertile and can be partially cultivated, owing to their proximity to mining towns.  Such, for example, is the beautiful Honey Lake Valley, about sixty miles long and ten wide, at an elevation of 4,500 feet above the level of the sea.  The valley is shut in by mountains, has little or no drainage, and in wet weather is rather swampy, but is a haven of refuge for cattle in a dry season.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The soil of the Sacramento Valley is a sandy loam mixed here and there with gravel.  It is not so rich as other parts of California, besides being subject to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>`<HI REND="italics">Tulare Valley</HI>
098.sgm:<P>`Down from the Nevadas the water clear and cold comes from its birthplace of snows, and pursuing its course arrives at the valley of Tules, and spreads over its bosom for miles in a swamp, then issuing from the swamp by several high banked channels, irrigates the country in every direction; each of these channels again and again loses itself in swamps, and escapes from them by many rivulets, till the lonely Kaweah of the mountains is four creeks at Woodsville, ten creeks at Visalia, and debouches into Tulare Lake by a thousand little mouths, some above and some below ground, having in its checkered course bestowed wealth and fertility on unnumbered acres.'</P>
098.sgm:<P>If the above does not bring settlers and purchasers that way, then is fine writing wasted in vain.  I may as well add in a postscript, that there is not a tree visible for miles and miles, not a blade of grass to be seen at this moment.</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The gem of California, however, is Pajaro Valley.  Its crops of grain are unsurpassed by any in the state.  A field of one hundred acres in this valley produced 90,000 bushels of barley, and one acre of it yielded 149 bushels.  Its potatoes are only excelled by those of Bodega on the coast of the Pacific.  Sun&tilde;ol Valley is also very rich.  The county of Santa Cruz is fertile throughout, rich in its alluvial plains, rich in its red wood forests, rich in its tan bark, rich in never-failing streams.  It is a favourite resort for sea-bathing by invalids, as there are steamers between it and San Francisco, as well as a lovely ride over the mountains.  Russian River Valley is, as a whole, the most productive in the entire state, not only on account of its great size, but also for its adaptability to grow anything, particularly maize.  It produces more of this latter cereal than the whole of California together.  This valley is also a great hog-raising district.  The droves are turned, at the proper season, into the forests of oaks that abound in one portion of the valley; the hogs get very fat on the acorns, and Russian River hams and bacon command the first price in the market.  Near the mouth of Russian River is Bodega plain, where the potatoes grow to an astonishing size.  Russian River, I may mention, is called after a colony of that nation who settled there in the beginning of this century, and had they been properly seconded by their government the coinage of this country might have been the double-headed eagle to-day.  It does not appear that these Russians were aware of the existence of the bay of San Francisco, but had landed at Sir Francis Drake's bay, and thence proceeded inland.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The numerous valleys formed by the spurs of the Monte Diablo range are very fertile, particularly San Ramon and Amador Valleys.  In the south the river <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The principal kind of wheat cultivated here is the Chili, the next the Australian.  A small quantity of Egyptian wheat is grown by the Italians for the manufacture of maccaroni, but three-fourths of the entire crop is grown from these two former.  The quality of wheat varies very much in different parts of the state, but as a general rule Californian wheat may be passed as possessing considerable gluten, flintiness, plumpness, and weight.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The climate of California is peculiarly adapted for economical wheat culture.  The farmer needs no barn, in many parts he has neither a fence nor a drain to make.  A perambulating reaping machine goes from farm to farm of those whose acres or whose means are not enough to have their own.  The crop is gathered into a heap in the middle of the field, where it lies to dry and acquire that brittleness which is its peculiar quality.  In course of time the threshing machine comes along; the farmer sacks his wheat and piles it up on the same ground.  He has no fear either of rain or dew.  He leaves it there till he finds a market, and then ships it by a sloop or barge to the wharf at San Francisco.  Frequently he sells it as it stands, piled up on the ground, and the purchaser carts it away.  After the first rain the farmer ploughs, not very deeply for the soil is still rich, and then he sits down and prays for rain.</P>
098.sgm:<P>In some of the more early sown districts the land is beginning to suffer from the constant demands upon it.  Year after year the plough has turned over its surface, and the unvarying seed wheat sown, so that of late the yield per acre has been gradually lessening.  The system of rotation of crops and fallow ploughing has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>Another very economical system of farming, which succeeds very well in California, is that called raising a volunteer crop.  This is especially the case with barley.  Volunteer crops are those grown from the seed which falls out in harvesting, consequently there is no sowing nor even ploughing in all cases.  It is sometimes only harrowed.  Barley has been known to volunteer five years in succession and the last crop a good one.</P>
098.sgm:<P>There are two seasons for sowing, known by the name of the early and the late.  The early is in November and December, the late from February to April.  The most certain crops are those sown early, the largest those sown late.  It is all a matter of chance, a species of gambling.  The early sower takes advantage of the November rains, and puts in his grain.  If copious rains fall in that month and in December, he is all right, he can do without any more rain, indeed, if the wet weather returns in the early spring, he loses, and <HI REND="italics">vice versa&circ;</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The next important industry in California is wool, the growth of the trade in which corresponds with the progress of California, and which, from a comparatively limited field of operations, has become highly important.  The native Californian sheep were of a degenerate breed, and produced only a coarse blanket and carpet wool.  The flocks were chiefly confined to the southern counties, such as Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and St. Luis Obispo.  After the discovery of gold and the admission of California into the Union, fine breeds of American sheep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The exports for the first half of 1871, 12,575,924 lbs. value $3,772,777.</P>
098.sgm:<P>From the above it will be seen how rapid has been the progress in this commodity.  It will be noticed likewise that although the amount exported for the first six months of the year is but two-thirds of the whole of last year's exports, yet its value is greater.  This is owing to the rapid rise in the price of this staple commodity.  Now, taking the fleece of wool at four pounds, which is the average weight, it will be seen that there are more than three million sheep in the state.  This, however, is below the mark, as many sheep are not sheared until the autumn, and some not sheared at all.  Upon the whole I should think that the number of head of sheep in California exceeds four millions.  Notwithstanding the occasional dry seasons, when the sheep perish by thousands, all those who have taken good care of their flocks have prospered, and many have grown wealthy.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The largest flocks of sheep are in the southern part of the state, and the best quality of wool comes from the north.  This is natural as the climate is colder, and I find the Oregon wool very superior to the Californian.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The different woollen mills of California consume rather more than five million pounds of wool annually.  One of them, and the largest, uses two-thirds of the whole.  It is a joint-stock company under the title of the Mission and Pacific Woollen Mills.  They make the most beautiful blankets I ever saw, and gained the gold medal at the Paris Industrial Exhibition.  It seems strange that the first prize for blankets should be won at this out of the way place.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Formerly all the wool was sent by sailing vessels round Cape Horn to New York and England.  When the Pacific Mail Steamship Company increased their carrying facilities, at the same time reducing their rates of freight, it was sent by way of the Isthmus of Panama.  To-day the greater part, indeed almost all the wool goes by the Central Pacific Railroad.  The freight is two and a half cents currency by rail, two cents gold by steamer, and one cent per sailing vessel.  The rail is preferred on account of celerity and delivery of the merchandise in better condition.</P>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">WINE</HI>
098.sgm:<P>THE next important industry in California is the manufacture of wine.  In fact it has been said that the productions of California, irrespective of her gold, are the three Ws--wheat, wool, and wine.</P>
098.sgm:<P>In the early days of California, which the Newcomes call the fossil age, grapes were the golden fruits of the vineyards.  To-day, the fermented juice is the grand desideratum.  When grapes were a dollar a bunch, nobody thought of making wine, save and except for home consumption.  When grapes began to rot on the ground for want of buyers, on account of the tons that poured into the market, then growers turned their attention to wine-making.</P>
098.sgm:<P>I don't think that I have hitherto sufficiently insisted on the fact, that it was the southern part of California which was the only settled and civilised portion before the discovery of gold.  Beyond the bay of San Francisco, south to Los Angeles and San Diego, nothing was known.  The great valley of the Sacramento was inhabited by Indians, elk, bears, wolves, antelope, and smaller game and vermin, whilst at Monterey, Santa Barbara, San Gabriel, and Los Angeles in the south, the old Missions, with their broad and fertile lands cultivated by baptized Indians, afforded a comfortable home to the Spanish Padres.  San Rafael, the farthest ecclesiastical establishment north, is only twenty miles from San Francisco, although there are monastic buildings at Sonoma, a few miles further.  But the seat of all the power lay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>Vineyards paying so well, of course every farmer had one.  But as it takes four years before the young vine is strong enough to bear fruit, so in the meantime the old vineyards, as I said before, coined money.  At length from north, east, south, and west, the grapes began to pour into San Francisco, and then growers began to think of turning their surplusage into wine.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Then arose the fallacy (Noah derived), that he who could plant the vine and gather the grapes, could also tread the winepress and manufacture the wine; not only manufacture, but bring it to market.  In other words, the happy, contented, not over-wealthy husbandman of Los Angeles found himself transformed, by the force of circumstances, into grower, manufacturer, and merchant, with a limited capital and still more limited knowledge, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>Vines will grow anywhere in California, but certain species thrive under certain conditions better than others, and this question should be carefully attended to.  The old Mission grape was grateful to the taste, sweet, and saccharine, planted as it was on the low rich bottom lands of the southern valleys.  Take the same vine to the foothills of the Sierras, and plant it in a calcareous, gravelly, soil, where it struggles for existence among rocks and stones, and you have a grape not so good to eat, but one that makes a far better wine than its pampered brother of the lowlands.  The latter makes a stronger spirit, but the other has drawn its life from the mountain air and stony soil, and is not of the earth, earthy.  Now the grape is indigenous in California.  It is to be found growing like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The early wines of California were all falsified being mixed with strong foreign wines.  The Los Angeles wine was not good enough to send out in its natural state, so the dealers doctored it, and these compounds went by the name of California wine, bringing no credit to the country.  Meanwhile it was found that the mining towns in the mountains grew better grapes than the old Missions, and that the valleys of the coast range made better wine than any.  For some enterprising landowners, prominent among whom was a Hungarian named Colonel Harasthy, had gone to Europe and returned with cuttings of vine from the finest vineyards of the old world--cuttings from the district of the Medoc, from Burgundy, from the Rhine, the Moselle, as well as from his own country.  And they throve wonderfully.  His vineyards are in the beautiful vale of Sonoma, Sonoma meaning in the Indian tongue `Moon Valley,' the valley where the moon loves to linger.  To-day, the relative proportions of the product of the four great wine-growing districts, viz. Sonoma Valley, Napa Valley, Los Angeles, and Eldorado, may be classed by the following figures--41, 38, 14, 11.  There is wine made now at the `Poza caliente' (hot spring) vineyard, which, if kept long enough, will equal good wines of the Rhone.  In fact some foreigners were deceived when they tasted it, and pronounced it an imported artiele.</P>
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098.sgm:<P>The amount of wine manufactured last year was six millions of gallons.  The crop this year will be large, for the drought so fatal to grain has been beneficial to the vineyards.  It is estimated that at least eight millions of gallons will be made in 1871, which at the low average price of thirty cents a gallon, will add 2,400,000 dollars to the capital of the country.  About one-twentieth part of the wine has hitherto been distilled into brandy, this year it is highly probable that one-tenth will be distilled, especially if the price keeps low, as the number of distilleries is increasing in the state, and brandy is less expensive to store, and more easily taken care of than wine.  As far as I have had experience, the brandy does not compare favourably with that of France.</P>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">SERICULTURE, BEET SUGAR, OLIVES, ETC</HI>
098.sgm:<P>AMONG the minor branches of industry at present in California, but one that is likely to become of considerable importance, is silkworm raising.  For some years past, owing to a disease, the nature of which has puzzled scientific men, and the cure for which has baffled the most experienced sericulturists, the worm in Italy has been gradually dying out, and the Italian growers have been scouring the whole world in search of new and healthy eggs.  They are to be found in Florida, in Louisiana, Peru, Japan, China, taking California <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A Frenchman, of the name of Prevost, was the first to draw attention to the practicability of rearing the silkworm in California.  He had a large nursery garden, near San Jose&acute;, and planted some mulberry trees.  His efforts were much aided by Mr. Hentsch, a banker of San Francisco, who sent to France for the best eggs that could be procured.  Mr. Prevost, though an earnest enthusiast, yet was not practically enough acquainted with the subject.  He grew the mulberry, he hatched his silkworms, he produced his cocoons, but the quality of the silk was not good, and his eggs were unproductive.  However, he had proved the possibility, and the state offered a premium of $300 for every thousand mulberry-trees of a certain age, and a like premium for every hundred thousand cocoons.  The consequence was, that every farmer planted mulberry-trees, regardless of soil, situation, or quality.  The state premium was the price <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:of a good crop, and so the state found out, for mulberry-trees poured in, or rather claims for premiums multiplied so fast, that the Government was obliged to cry enough and rescind its enactment.  Mulberry-trees had been sown like peas, and the greater number to the acre the greater the farmer's profit.  The favourite plant was the <HI REND="italics">Morus multicaulis</HI>
098.sgm:, which is of very rapid growth, and throws out immense leaves.  This species, when planted in wet land, as many were in the Sacramento Valley, shot up like Jonah's gourd, but the leaves were nothing but water, and the silkworm, which is a greedy feeder, literally died of dropsy.  Mr. Hoag, of Sacramento, planted upwards of a million trees of this <HI REND="italics">Multicaulis</HI>
098.sgm:, but has never been successful in rearing the worm.  The two species of mulberry best adapted for sericulture are the <HI REND="italics">Morus alba</HI>
098.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Morus moretti</HI>
098.sgm:, both of them originally from China, but now almost indigenous in Italy through centuries of cultivation.  As I said, not only in early moruculture were the sites and species wrongly chosen, but the trees were planted so closely together that when they grew up neither light nor air could penetrate between their thickly-interlaced branches, and sunshine is essential to the leaf; the consequence was that the state became charged with inefficient cocooneries and unhealthy worms.  Even had the <HI REND="italics">Multicaulis</HI>
098.sgm: been the best species, so great was the hurry of the growers to obtain the premium, that they fed their worms on leaves that were picked from too young trees, so that they produced weak, soft cocoons.  In 1860, an unknown grower introduced certain eggs from Montauban in France, which for a time gave excellent results, but, being badly reared everywhere, the quality had much deteriorated.  The cocoon resembled much that which is called Macedonia in Italy, here known by the name of the Yellow California.  The California Silk Cultivation Society, whose mulberry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Meanwhile the Italians in California had not been idle, and Mr. Larco, a wealthy merchant of San Francisco, has laid out the most perfect establishment for silk-raising in the state.  The whole has been under the superintendence of Signor Cerruti, who thoroughly understands the art, as well as of practical workmen imported from Italy.  Forty acres of land are devoted to mulberry-trees.  The land is beautifully situated in a basin surrounded by the foot-hills of the coast range.  The ground was laid out in 1868, and from twelve to sixteen thousand mulberry-trees planted, which will be in their full maturity next year, and twenty thousand more in eighteen months.  The species planted were <HI REND="italics">Morus alba</HI>
098.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Morus moretti</HI>
098.sgm:, with some few varieties from China by way of experiment.  None of the trees are nearer one another than sixteen feet, and Mr. Cerruti even advises wider planting, in order to economise the intervening spaces for cereals.  For the first year the mulberry-tree requires irrigation, after that the roots, which strike downward, find enough <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>With respect to the disease among the worms in Italy, I learnt that some very interesting experiments have been made by Professor Susanno of Milan, who has determined that it is not the mulberry that affects the worm, but that the disease is latent in the animal itself.  Whereupon the Professor has adopted what he calls a `syste&circ;me cellulaire.'  He takes a quantity of eggs, and subjects each one to a careful microscopic examination.  Every one that shows the slightest symptom of disease is destroyed, and only those preserved that are to all appearance healthy.  As soon as the worm is hatched, the microscope is again brought into play, and the same winnowing process gone through.  The selected worms are then separately brought away (cellulaire), and selected cocoons set aside.  The female moths thus produced are kept apart, and their eggs noted.  Immediately she has done laying she is cut open, and her internal organs carefully examined by the microscope, for it is thence, says Professor Susanno, that the disease emanates.  The eggs of those moths only that present a healthy appearance are preserved, and in this manner it is to be hoped that in two years' time the ravages of the silkworm disease may be repaired.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The cultivation of the White or Sugar Beet in California, and its manufacture into sugar, is as yet in its infancy.  A company, called `the Beet Sugar Company,' have established works at Alvarado, and these have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The opium poppy is likewise successfully raised in California, but in small quantities.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The olive has always thriven well in the south, and none of the old Missions were without their olive grove.  If tradition speaks true, the old Padres were not without their olive branches as well.  For the first ten years of the American occupation the groves were neglected.  The Mission lands were the subject of litigation, but now attention is directed to the cultivation of this very profitable branch of agriculture.</P>
098.sgm:<P>In Santa Barbara Valley, Messrs. Fernald, Blanchard, and Towle have two thousand olive-trees of six years' growth, which will bring them in from ten to twelve thousand dollars, and the product of the neighbourhood is estimated at a hundred thousand gallons of oil, worth about two dollars a gallon.  The tree that makes the best oil bears a small fruit, but the large Spanish olive is the best for eating, though Frenchmen prefer their small round species.  The Spanish olive, however, has a higher flavour.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The process of extracting the oil is very simple, the olives being squeezed in a common press, and then strained through hair bags, so that any farmer can manufacture the oil.  He has only to let it clarify in earthen or stone vessels.</P>
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098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">THE ZOOLOGY OF CALIFORNIA</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BEFORE the occupation of California by the Americans the country abounded with many species of animals, that are now, if not extinct, at least driven to the mountains or the recesses of the forests.  In 1849 vast herds of elk roamed over the valleys of the San Joaquim and Sacramento, and venison was as cheap as butcher's meat.  To-day not one is to be found in the great basin from Shasta to San Diego, and only occasionally do the hunters come across a solitary specimen in the coast range, north of San Francisco.  In the old days the traveller to the mines would see long files of the antelope, or the deer would look out with large wondering eyes from a clump of oaks, but to-day only the trees remain.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The elk is similar to the extinct Irish deer.  It is an animal with the body of a horse and the head of a stag.  It is about seven feet long by five feet high, and when full grown weighs from eight to twelve hundred pounds.  The antlers are very large and handsome, with eight and sometimes nine tines, and young elk are very good eating.  The venison of the deer is not so good except under the exceptional case of a fat buck being met with; but in general the meat is lean and tough.  Young antelope on the other hand are very delicious, and the animal more elegant than the deer; they move differently also, the deer bucks in bounds, whilst the antelope canters.  The antelope is gregarious and follow their leader, whilst the deer move about according to their volition.</P>
098.sgm:<P>In the southern part of the Tulare are flocks of an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>But the king of beasts and the pride of California is the grizzly bear ( <HI REND="italics">Ursus horribilis</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Of course the ambition of every Californian sportsman is to kill a grizzly, and that is one of the reasons why this bear, who used to roam within ten miles of San Francisco, is now only to be met with in the mountains, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>Many marvellous stories are told about bear hunts.  One of them was recounted me by a gentleman whose veracity I have no reason to doubt.  He was riding in the neighbourhood of Santa Barbara, looking after small game, when suddenly he came upon a huge grizzly.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>But the grizzly will rank with the dodo some of these early days.</P>
098.sgm:<P>There are also the brown bear and the cinnamon bear, both fiercer though not so powerful as the grizzly.  They are also both climbers, and live in the forests, whilst the grizzly seldom climbs, and prefers to live in the chapparal.</P>
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098.sgm:<P>The animal next in size is vulgarly called the Californian lion, being in reality a puma.  It is an ugly, skulking, dirty-brown brute, and kills sheep and deer.  There are wolves, foxes, red, grey, and common.  The red fox's skin is very soft and handsome.</P>
098.sgm:<P>An animal allied to the fox and the dog, called coyote, was very numerous, and indeed is still often to be met with in the interior.  It is the most hungry, cadaverous, unhappy, and predatory animal in California.  It is also the most hunted, and trapped, and tortured.  The coyotes hunt in flocks during the night-time.  Their cry is somewhat similar to that of a pack of hounds only with a tone of starving misery.  There is something very melancholy to hear them in the still midnight when one is camping out in the woods.  At first there is one sharp impatient hunger-drawn bark, followed by a whimpering, and then a chorus of prolonged howls, growing fainter and fainter as the pack passes up some ravine.  One feels almost sad to hear this cry drawn forth by a gnawing craving want of food.  I have seen many coyotes killed, and never found one that was not a mass of skin and bone.  They are awful thieves however, and will hide all day in a hen-roost if there are no dogs about.  There is also a species of wild cat, very fierce, larger than the domestic animal and with a short tail, that is very troublesome about a farmyard, especially as dogs are very shy of them.  The only way is to train the dogs to tree them, and then bring them down with a shot gun.</P>
098.sgm:<P>California is not so rich in fur-bearing animals as the countries lying more north; still there is some peltry yet left.  Beaver are getting scarcer every year, not that they are trapped as they were some half century back, but they have receded before civilisation.  A few years ago their marks were visible on the trees that lined the Sacramento and Feather rivers, but they have gone away <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>But the sea-otter still exists, though the great value of its skin causes it to be cruelly hunted.  The finest skins are worth from eighty to a hundred dollars a-piece, and the old Hudson's Bay Company used to measure them on gun-barrels, and give the Indians who brought them a Birmingham musket in exchange which cost about ten or twelve shillings.  The fur is beautiful in colour, and softness; it can be stroked either way, and the rich `sable-grizzled' is the favourite tint; the darker the better.  The sea-otter is extraordinary in its habits, and flies in the face of custom.  It swims on its back, sleeps on its back, has forepaws like a quadruped, yet never comes on shore.</P>
098.sgm:<P>At Monterey the sea-otter is still hunted, but along the coast, as far as the Columbia river, it is rarely to be found.  The land-otter formerly abounded in the large rivers and lakes, and is very similar to the English variety.  The racoon is very common, and is frequently domesticated, more as a pet than for any use that can be made of it.  Rats abound everywhere, but the large brown rat predominates.  They come out of the ships.  I saw one the half of whose body was white and the upper half brown.  There are all sorts of mice, from the delicate field mouse to the round hump-backed cupboard depredator.</P>
098.sgm:<P>The squirrel family is largely represented, and most heartily cursed by the farmer.  There is a very large, handsome, grey squirrel, whose tail is one-third larger than its body, that lives up in the pine trees.  He is harmless, but the ground squirrels burrow in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>I have already mentioned the large hare or jackass-rabbit as it is called.  Its colour is darker on the back than the English hare, and it has not so much meat on the back as that.  It is from twenty to twenty-five inches long.  There is another species, equally large, which is perfectly white in winter, and of a light yellowish grey with white belly in summer.  There is likewise a little bit of a rabbit that is never longer than a foot, and is found in great numbers about the bushes.  It is capital sport shooting them, but it takes a very good shot as they are as quick as squirrels.  They make an excellent stew, however.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Of birds there are the common golden eagle, which is to be found all over the continent, and the bald eagle.  Then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:there is the vulture, which is an enormous bird, measuring nine and even ten feet across the wings.  There are many varieties of hawks, from the fish-hawk down to the small sparrow-hawk.  Of owls there are nine species, from the great staring brown owl to the little dwarf owl that lives in the hole of the ground squirrel, sometimes with a rattlesnake for companion.  There is a strange species of woodpecker here called by the Spaniards <HI REND="italics">carpintero</HI>
098.sgm:<P>There are no real song-birds, such as we in England call songsters, in California.  In the spring some linnets get up a few joy-notes, but there is nothing like our early lark, or thrush, or even robin.  There is a mocking-bird in that state, but it even is a bad imitation of his Mexican brother.  The consequence of this absence of song-birds is, that the bird-fanciers abound in San Francisco, and one sees shops full of canaries and Australian mocking-birds, and other importations.  Canaries sell from three to five dollars each.  Some very pretty humming-birds, but the most common wears a humble brown suit.  The sandhill crane is a beautiful bird, pure white, and shaped like a flamingo.  This species lives in large flocks, chiefly on the shallow side of the bend of a river, they are very shy birds.  The two species of quail, the mountain and common, are both very elegantly plumed.  The mountain quail is as large as a small partridge, which it much resembles, with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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098.sgm:<P>The fish of California, as a general rule, are inferior to those either of Europe or of the North Pacific.  There is neither mackerel, sole, turbot, nor whiting, but in return there is the pompouneau, one of the most delicious fish I ever tasted.  It is of the shape and size of a small flounder, as firm as a sole, and more delicate in flavour than a red mullet.  Formerly these fish sold for ten shillings a-piece in San Francisco, to-day they are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>Next to the flea the most common insect in California is the mosquito, as visitors to the Yosemite&acute; will have experienced.  People emerge from the valley like smallpox patients, and the dainty gnat prefers the tenderest skin.  The only venomous insects are the scorpion, centipede, and tarantula, or ground-spider.  There are plenty of water and land snakes, but none are dangerous excepting the rattlesnake already mentioned.  On the whole, California is not rich in her zoology.</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">THE FLORA OF CALIFORNIA</HI>
098.sgm:<P>THAT which I said with respect to the fauna of that state is still more applicable to its flora.  With the exception of varieties of pine and a large bay-tree, called the Californian laurel, California has nothing to boast of in the way of forest trees.  Of the pines, the first of course is the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
098.sgm:, or big trees, already described, and the red wood which, as I have before said, is surmised to be the same species growing under less favourable circumstances.  Then there is the magnificent Douglas pine, the sugar pine, the white pine, &amp;c., all good timber trees.  There are also varieties of cedars, beautiful wild-looking trees of no great value.  There is a tree, called the Monterey cypress, which has been largely imported from the south of California to adorn the gardens and cemeteries of San Francisco, although it is not so handsome as many other ornamental trees.  As for the oaks, they are only fit for shade and firewood.  The white oak has long spreading branches, and bears very large acorns, but it is rare to find a sound tree, and the timber is worthless.  The black or evergreen oak is nearly as large, not so handsome, and equally useless.  The horse chesnut hardly attains to the dignity of a tree.  Its blossoms are handsome, and the nuts large.  The madrona is an elegant tree, swaying about on its long, thin, red-barked stem, like a tree that had overgrown itself.  I have mentioned wild grapes.  There are delicious little wild-strawberries, like the English hautboys.  They used to be numerous in the hills around San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The wild flowers of California are more remarkable for their abundance than for their variety.  Acres upon acres will be seen covered with one species.  There are the flaunting escholtzia, the gentle blue nemophila, which sometimes makes a plain look like the reflection of the sky, large patches of sunflower, a brushwood of the blue ceonothus, like our English privet, there are asclepias, and euphorbias, and the prickly pear, and the evening primrose, and lupins innumerable, from the fragrant yellow to the bright-eyed dwarf, with blue and white blossoms.  The columbine abounds, as likewise many species of ferns, especially the graceful adiantum.  But it is in the mountains that the pride of California flowers grow, for there the great lilies cover the ground for miles, and the white azalia snows itself in all directions.  The large lily of the Sierra Nevada is somewhat similar to the Japanese lily, and is equally fragrant.  In the foot-hills is found a remarkably elegant species of lily, of a pale crimson colour and shaped somewhat like a snowdrop.  There is also a rhododendron in the mountains, but all attempts to rear it in San Francisco have failed.  Violets are common, and a curious species of fraxilla.  The white forget-me-not is everywhere, but the flower-seeker must beware of the yedra or poison oak.  He sees before him a straight wand-like shrub, three or four feet high, with beautiful leaves, sometimes of a bright scarlet, covering its stem.  Let him beware of adding that to his collection, or the following day his face may be swollen up so that his eyes are almost closed, and he looks like the winner in a prize, whilst acute pains and swellings arise <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:in the most sensitive parts of the body.  Some people can handle the yedra with impunity, whilst others are affected if they only pass to leeward of the plant.  It abounds everywhere, and one species is a parasite.  The flower is rather pretty, of a light greenish colour.  The <HI REND="italics">Agave Americana</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LONDON: PRINTED BY</P>
098.sgm:<P>SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE</P>
098.sgm:<P>AND PARLIAMENT STREET</P>
098.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<DIV><AD><P>[MARCH 1872.]<LB>GENERAL LIST OF WORKS<LB>PUBLISHED BY<LB>MESSRS. LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.<LB>PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON.<HI REND="italics">History, Politics, Historical Memoirs</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HISTORY of ENGLAND from the Fall of Wolsey to the Defeat of the Spanish Armada.  By JAMES ANTHONY FROUDE, M.A. late Fellow of Exeter College, Oxford.<LB>LIBRARY EDITION, 12 VOLS. 8vo. price &pound;8 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.<LB>CABINET EDITION, in 12 vols. crown 8vo. price 72 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HISTORY of ENGLAND from the Accession of James II.  By Lord MACAULAY.<LB>STUDENT'S EDITION, 2 vols. crown 8vo. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.<LB>PEOPLE'S EDITION, 4 vols. crown 8vo. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.<LB>CABINET EDITION, 8 vols. post 8vo. 48 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.<LB>LIBRARY EDITION, 5 vols. 8vo. &pound;4.</P>
098.sgm:<P>LORD MACAULAY'S WORKS.  Complete and Uniform Library Edition.  Edited by his Sister, Lady TREVELYAN.  8 vols. 8vo. with Portrait, price &pound;5 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. cloth, or &pound;8 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>VARIETIES of VICE-REGAL LIFE.  By Sir WILLIAM DENISON, K.C.B. late Governor-General of the Australian Colonies, and Governor of Madras.  With Two Maps.  2 vols. 8vo. 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>On PARLIAMENTARY GOVERNMENT in ENGLAND; its Origin, Development, and Practical Operation.  By ALPHEUS TODD, Librarian of the Legislative Assembly of Canada.  2 vols. 8vo. price &pound;1 17 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A HISTORICAL ACCOUNT of the NEUTRALITY of GREAT BRITAIN DURING the AMERICAN CIVIL WAR.  By MOUNTAGUE BERNARD, M.A. Chichele Professor of International Law and Diplomacy in the University of Oxford.  Royal 8vo. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The CONSTITUTIONAL HISTORY of ENGLAND, since the Accession of George III. 1760--1860.  By Sir THOMAS ERSKINE MAY, C.B.  Second Edition.  Cabinet Edition, thoroughly revised.  3 vols. crown 8vo. price 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HISTORY of ENGLAND, from the Earliest Times to the Year 1865.  By C. D. YONGE, B.A. Regius Professor of Modern History in Queen's College, Belfast.  New Edition.  Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The OXFORD REFORMERS--John Colet, Erasmus, and Thomas More; being a History of their Fellow-work.  By FREDERIC SEEBOHM.  Second Edition, enlarged.  8vo. 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LECTURES on the HISTORY of ENGLAND, from the earliest Times to the Death of King Edward II.  By WILLIAM LONGMAN.  With Maps and Illustrations.  8vo. 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HISTORY of the LIFE and TIMES of EDWARD the THIRD, By WILLIAM LONGMAN.  With 9 Maps, 8 Plates, and 16 Woodcuts.  2 vols. 8vo. 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The OVERTHROW of the GERMANIC CONFEDERATION by PRUSSIA in 1866.  By Sir ALEXANDER MALET, Bart. K.C.B.  With 5 Maps.  8vo. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>WATERLOO LECTURES; a Study of the Campaign of 1815.  By Colonel CHARLES C. CHESNEY, R.E. late Professor of Military Art and History in the Staff College.  New Edition.  8vo. with Map, 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of the REFORMATION in EUROPE in the Time of Calvin.  By J. H. MERLE D'AUBIGNE&acute;, D.D.  VOLS. I. and II. 8vo. 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  VOL. III. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  VOL. IV. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  VOL. V. price 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ROYAL and REPUBLICAN FRANCE.  A Series of Essays reprinted from the <HI REND="italics">Edinburgh, Quarterly</HI>
098.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">British and Foreign Reviews</HI>
098.sgm:.  By HENRY REEVE, C.B. D.C.L.  2 vols. 8vo. price 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CHAPTERS from FRENCH HISTORY; St. Louis, Joan of Arc, Henri IV. with Sketches of the Intermediate Periods.  By J. H. GURNEY, M.A.  New Edition.  Fcp. 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MEMOIR of POPE SIXTUS the FIFTH.  By Baron HUBNER.  Translated from the Original in French, with the Author's sanction, by HUBERT E. H. JERNINGHAM.  2 vols. 8vo. price 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">Nearly ready</HI>
098.sgm:<P>IGNATIUS LOYOLA and the EARLY JESUITS.  By STEWART ROSE.  New Edition, revised.  8vo. with Portrait, price 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HISTORY of GREECE.  By C. THIRLWALL, D.D. Lord Bishop of St. David's.  8 vols. fcp. 8vo. price 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>GREEK HISTORY from Themistocles to Alexander, in a Series of Lives from Plutarch.  Revised and arranged by A. H. CLOUGH.  New Edition.  Fcp. with 44 Woodcuts, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CRITICAL HISTORY of the LANGUAGE and LITERATURE of Ancient Greece.  By WILLIAM MURE, of Caldwell.  5 vols. 8vo. &pound;3 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The TALE of the GREAT PERSIAN WAR, from the Histories of Herodotus.  By GEORGE W. COX, M.A.  New Edition.  Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of the LITERATURE of ANCIENT GREECE.  By Professor K. O. MU&die;LLER.  Translated by the Right Hon. Sir GEORGE CORNEWALL LEWIS, Bart. and by J. W. DONALDSON, D.D.  3 vols. 8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of the CITY of ROME from its Foundation to the Sixteenth Century of the Christian Era.  By THOMAS H. DYER, LL.D.  8vo. with 2 Maps, 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HISTORY of ROME.  By WILLIAM IHNE.  English Edition, translated and revised by the Author.  VOLS. I. and II. 8vo. price 30 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of the ROMANS under the EMPIRE.  By the Very Rev. C. MERIVALE, D.C.L. Dean of Ely.  8 vols. post 8vo. 48 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The FALL of the ROMAN REPUBLIC; a Short History of the Last Century of the Commonwealth.  By the same Author.  12mo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>THREE CENTURIES of MODERN HISTORY.  By CHARLES DUKE YONGE, B.A. Regius Professor of Modern History and English Literature in Queen's College, Belfast.  Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A STUDENT'S MANUAL of the HISTORY of INDIA, from the Earliest Period to the Present.  By Colonel MEADOWS TAYLOR, M.R.A.S. M.R.I.A.  Crown 8vo. with Maps, 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HISTORY of INDIA, from the Earliest Period to the close of Lord Dalhousie's Administration.  By JOHN CLARK MARSHMAN.  3 vols. crown 8vo. 22 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>INDIAN POLITY: a View of the System of Administration in India.  By Lieutenant-Colonel GEORGE CHESNEY, Fellow of the University of Calcutta.  New Edition, revised; with Map.  8vo. price 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>RECREATIONS of an INDIAN OFFICIAL.  By Lieutenant-Colonel MALLESON, Bengal Staff Corps; Guardian to His Highness the Maharaja of Mysore.  Crown 8vo. price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HOME POLITICS; being a consideration of the Causes of the Growth of Trade in relation to Labour, Pauperism, and Emigration.  By DANIEL GRANT.  8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>REALITIES of IRISH LIFE.  By W. STEUART TRENCH, Land Agent in Ireland to the Marquess of Lansdowne, the Marquess of Bath, and Lord Digby.  Fifth Edition.  Crown 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The STUDENT'S MANUAL of the HISTORY of IRELAND.  By MARY F. CUSACK, Author of `The Illustrated History of Ireland, from the Earliest Period to the Year of Catholic Emancipation.'  Crown 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CRITICAL and HISTORICAL ESSAYS contributed to the <HI REND="italics">Edinburgh Review</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CABINET EDITION, 4 vols. post 8vo. 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LIBRARY EDITION, 3 vols. 8vo. 36 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PEOPLE'S EDITION, 2 vols. crown 8vo. 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>STUDENT'S EDITION, 1 vol. cr. 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SAINT-SIMON and SAINT-SIMONISM; a chapter in the History of Socialism in France.  By ARTHUR J. BOOTH, M.A.  Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of EUROPEAN MORALS, from Augustus to Charlemagne.  By W. E. H. LECKY, M.A.  Second Edition.  2 vols. 8vo. price 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of the RISE and INFLUENCE of the SPIRIT of RATIONALISM in EUROPE.  By W. E. H. LECKY, M.A.  Cabinet Edition, being the Fourth.  2 vols. crown 8vo. price 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>GOD in HISTORY; or, the Progress of Man's Faith in the Moral Order of the World.  By BARON BUNSEN.  Translated by SUSANNA WINKWORTH; with a Preface by DEAN STANLEY.  3 vols. 8vo. price 42 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ESSAYS on HISTORICAL TRUTH.  By ANDREW BISSET.  8vo. 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HISTORY of PHILOSOPHY, from Thales to Comte.  By GEORGE HENRY LEWES.  Fourth Edition.  2 vols. 8vo. 32 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>An HISTORICAL VIEW of LITERATURE and ART in GREAT BRITAIN from the Accession of the House of Hanover to the Reign of Queen Victoria.  By J. MURRAY GRAHAM, M.A.  8vo. price 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The MYTHOLOGY of the ARYAN NATIONS.  By GEORGE W. COX, M.A. late Scholar of Trinity College, Oxford, Joint-Editor, with the late Professor Brande, of the Fourth Edition of `The Dictionary of Science, Literature, and Art,' Author of `Tales of Ancient Greece' &amp;c.  2 vols. 8vo. 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of CIVILISATION in England and France, Spain and Scotland.  By HENRY THOMAS BUCKLE.  New Edition of the entire Work, with a complete INDEX.  3 vols. crown 8vo. 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of the CHRISTIAN CHURCH, from the Ascension of Christ to the Conversion of Constantine.  By E. BURTON, D.D. late Prof. of Divinity in the Univ. of Oxford.  New Edition.  Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SKETCH of the HISTORY of the CHURCH of ENGLAND to the Revolution of 1688.  By the Right Rev. T. V. SHORT, D.D. Lord Bishop of St. Asaph.  Eighth Edition.  Crown 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of the EARLY CHURCH, from the First Preaching of the Gospel to the Council of Nic&aelig;a, A.D. 325.  By ELIZABETH M. SEWELL, Author of `Amy Herbert.'  New Edition, with Questions.  Fcp. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ENGLISH REFORMATION.  By F. C. MASSINGBERD, M.A. Chancellor of Lincoln and Rector of South Ormsby.  Fourth Edition, revised.  Fcp. 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MAUNDER'S HISTORICAL TREASURY; comprising a General Introductory Outline of Universal History, and a series of Separate Histories.  Latest Edition, revised and brought down to the Present Time by the Rev. GEORGE WILLIAM COX, M.A.  Fcp. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. cloth, or 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORICAL and CHRONOLOGICAL ENCYCLOP&AElig;DIA; comprising Chronological Notices of all the Great Events of Universal History: Treaties, Alliances, Wars, Battles, &amp;c.; Incidents in the Lives of Eminent Men and their Works, Scientific and Geographical Discoveries, Mechanical Inventions, and Social, Domestic, and Economical Improvements.  By the late B. B. WOODWARD, B.A. and W. L. R. CATES.  1 vol. 8vo.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">Nearly ready</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Biographical Works</HI>
098.sgm:<P>AUTOBIOGRAPHY of JOHN MILTON; or, Milton's Life in his own Words.  By the Rev. JAMES J. G. GRAHAM, M.A.  Crown 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A MEMOIR of DANIEL MACLISE, R.A.  By W. JUSTIN O'DRISCOLL, M.R.I.A. Barrister-at-Law.  With Portrait and Woodcuts.  Post 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS of the MARQUIS of POMBAL; with Extracts from his Writings and from Despatches in the State Papers Office.  By the GONDE DA CARNOTA.  New Edition.  8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LORD GEORGE BENTINCK; a Political Biography.  By the Right Hon. BENJAMIN DISRAELI, M.P.  Eighth Edition, revised, with a New Preface. Crown 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>REMINISCENCES of FIFTY YEARS.  By MARK BOYD.  Post 8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The LIFE of ISAMBARD KINGDOM BRUNEL, Civil Engineer.  By ISAMBARD BRUNEL, B.C.L. of Lincoln's Inn; Chancellor of the Diocese of Ely.  With Portrait, Plates, and Woodcuts.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ROYAL INSTITUTION; its Founder and its First Professors.  By Dr. BENCE JONES, Honorary Secretary.  Post 8vo. price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The LIFE and LETTERS of FARADAY.  By Dr. BENCE JONES, Secretary of the Royal Institution.  Second Edition, throughly revised.  2 vols. 8vo. with Portrait, and Eight Engravings on Wood, price 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>FARADAY as a DISCOVERER.  By JOHN TYNDALL, LL.D. F.R.S. Professor of Natural Philosophy in the Royal Institution.  New and Cheaper Edition, with Two Portraits.  Fcp. 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>RECOLLECTIONS of PAST LIFE.  By Sir HENRY HOLLAND, Bart. M.D. F.R.S. &amp;c.  Physician-in-Ordinary to the Queen.  Second Edition.  Post 8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A GROUP of ENGLISHMEN (1795 to 1815); Records of the Younger Wedgwoods and their Friends, embracing the History of the Discovery of Photography.  By ELIZA METEYARD.  8vo. price 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The LIFE and LETTERS of the Rev. SYDNEY SMITH.  Edited by his Daughter, Lady HOLLAND, and Mrs. AUSTIN.  New Edition, complete in One Volume.  Crown 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SOME MEMORIALS of R. D. HAMPDEN, Bishop of Hereford.  Edited by his Daughter, HENRIETTA HAMPDEN.  With Portrait.  8vo. price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The LIFE and TRAVELS of GEORGE WHITEFIELD, M.A.  By JAMES PATTERSON GLEDSTONE.  8vo. price 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LEADERS of PUBLIC OPINION in IRELAND; Swift, Flood, Grattan, O'Connell.  By W. E. H. LECKY, M.A.  New Edition, revised and enlarged.  Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>DICTIONARY of GENERAL BIOGRAPHY; containing Concise Memoirs and Notices of the most Eminent Persons of all Countries, from the Earliest Ages to the Present Time.  Edited by W. L. R. CATES.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LIVES of the QUEENS of ENGLAND.  By AGNES STRICKLAND.  Library Edition, newly revised; with Portraits of every Queen, Autographs, and Vignettes.  8 vols. post 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LIFE of the DUKE of WELLINGTON.  By the Rev. G. R. GLEIG, M.A.  Popular Edition, carefully revised; with copious Additions.  Crown 8vo. with Portrait, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of MY RELIGIOUS OPINIONS.  By J. H. NEWMAN, D.D.  Being the Substance of Apologia pro Vita&acute; Sua&acute;.  Post 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The PONTIFICATE of PIUS the NINTH; being the Third Edition of `Rome and its Ruler,' continued to the latest moment and greatly enlarged.  By J. F. MAGUIRE, M.P.  Post 8vo. with Portrait, 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>FATHER MATHEW: a Biography.  By JOHN FRANCIS MAGUIRE, M.P. for Cork.  Popular Edition, with Portrait.  Crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>FELIX MENDELSSOHN'S LETTERS from <HI REND="italics">Italy and Switzerland</HI>
098.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Letters from</HI>
098.sgm: 1833 <HI REND="italics">to</HI>
098.sgm: 1847, translated by Lady WALLACE.  New Edition, with Portrait.  2 vols. crown 8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS of SIR HENRY HAVELOCK, K.C.B.  By JOHN CLARK MARSHMAN.  Cabinet Edition, with Portrait.  Crown 8vo. price 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>VICISSITUDES of FAMILIES.  By Sir J. BERNARD BURKE, C.B.  Ulster King of Arms.  New Edition, remodelled and enlarged.  2 vols. crown 8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ESSAYS in ECCLESIASTICAL BIOGRAPHY.  By the Right Hon. Sir J. STEPHEN, LL.D.  Cabinet Edition, being the Fifth.  Crown 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MAUNDER'S BIOGRAPHICAL TREASURY.  Thirteenth Edition, reconstructed, thoroughly revised, and in great part rewritten; with about 1,000 additional Memoirs and Notices, by W. L. R. CATES.  Fcp. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>LETTERS and LIFE of FRANCIS BACON, including all his Occasional Works.  Collected and edited, with a Commentary, by J. SPEDDING, Trin. Coll. Cantab.  VOLS. I. and II. 8vo. 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  VOLS. III. and IV. 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  VOL. V. price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Criticism, Philosophy, Polity, &amp;c</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The INSTITUTES of JUSTINIAN; with English Introduction, Translation, and Notes.  By T. C. SANDARS, M.A. Barrister, late Fellow of Oriel Coll. Oxon. New Edition. 8vo. 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SOCRATES and the SOCRATIC SCHOOLS.  Translated from the German of Dr. E. ZELLER, with the Author's approval, by the Rev. OSWALD J. REICHEL, B.C.L. and M.A. Crown 8vo. 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The STOICS, EPICUREANS, and SCEPTICS.  Translated from the German of Dr. E. ZELLER, with the Author's approval, by OSWALD J. REICHEL, B.C.L. and M.A.  Crown 8vo. price 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ETHICS of ARISTOTLE, illustrated with Essays and Notes.  By Sir A. GRANT, Bart. M.A. LL.D. Second Edition, revised and completed. 2 vols. 8vo. price 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The NICOMACHEAN ETHICS of ARISTOTLE newly translated into English.  By R. WILLIAMS, B.A.Fellow and late Lecturer of Merton College, and sometime Student of Christ Church, Oxford.  8vo. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ELEMENTS of LOGIC.  By R. WHATELY, D.D. late Archbishop of Dublin.  New Edition. 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:. crown 8vo. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Elements of Rhetoric.  By the same Author.  New Edition.  8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:. crown 8vo. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>English Synonymes.  By E. JANE WHATELY.  Edited by Archbishop WHATELY.  5th Edition. Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BACON'S ESSAYS with ANNOTATIONS.  By R. WHATELY, D.D. late Archbishop of Dublin.  Sixth Edition. 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LORD BACON'S WORKS, collected and edited by J. SPEDDING, M.A.  R. L. ELLIS, M.A. and D. D. HEATH.  New and Cheaper Edition. 7 vols. 8vo. price &pound;3 13 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The SUBJECTION of WOMEN.  By JOHN STUART MILL.  New Edition. Post 8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>On REPRESENTATIVE GOVERNMENT.  By JOHN STUART MILL.  Third Edition.  8vo. 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  Crown 8vo. 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>On LIBERTY.  By JOHN STUART MILL.  Fourth Edition.  Post 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:.  Crown 8vo. 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 4 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PRINCIPLES of POLITICAL ECONOMY.  By the same Author.  Seventh Edition.  2 vols. 8vo. 30 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. Or in 1 vol. crown 8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A SYSTEM of LOGIC, RATIOCINATIVE and INDUCTIVE.  By the same Author.  Seventh Edition.  Two vols. 8vo. 25 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>UTILITARIANISM.  By JOHN STUART MILL.  Fourth Edition. 8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>DISSERTATIONS and DISCUSSIONS, POLITICAL, PHILOSOPHICAL, and HISTORICAL.  By JOHN STUART MILL.  Second Edition, revised. 3 vols. 8vo. 36 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>EXAMINATION of Sir W. HAMILTON'S PHILOSOPHY, and of the Principal Philosophical Questions discussed in his Writings.  By JOHN STUART MILL.  Third Edition. 8vo. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>An OUTLINE of the NECESSARY LAWS of THOUGHT: a Treatise on Pure and Applied Logic.  By the Most Rev. W. THOMSON, Lord Archbishop of York, D.D.F.R.S.  Ninth Thousand.  Crown 8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ELEMENTS of POLITICAL ECONOMY.  By HENRY DUNNING MACLEOD, M.A. Barrister-at-Law. 8vo. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A Dictionary of Political Economy; Biographical, Bibliographical, Historical, and Practical.  By the same Author.  VOL. I. royal 8vo. 30 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A COLONIST on the COLONIAL QUESTION.  By JOHN MATHEWS, of Toronto, Canada.  Post 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ELECTION of REPRESENTATIVES, Parliamentary and Municipal; a Treatise.  By THOMAS HARE, Barrister-at-Law.  Third Edition, with Additions.  Crown 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SPEECHES of the RIGHT HON. LORD MACAULAY, corrected by Himself.  People's Edition, crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Lord Macaulay's Speeches on Parliamentary Reform in 1831 and 1832.  16mo. 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A DICTIONARY of the ENGLISH LANGUAGE.  By R. G. LATHAM, M.A. M.D. F.R.S.  Founded on the Dictionary of Dr. SAMUEL JOHNSON, as edited by the Rev. H. J. TODD, with numerous Emendations and Additions.  In Four Volumes, 4to. price &pound;7.</P>
098.sgm:<P>THESAURUS of ENGLISH WORDS and PHRASES, classified and arranged so as to facilitate the Expression of Ideas, and assist in Literary Composition.  By P. M. ROGET, M.D.  New Edition. Crown 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LECTURES on the SCIENCE of LANGUAGE.  By F. MAX MU&die;LLER, M.A. &amp;c. Foreign Member of the French Institute.  Sixth Edition. 2 vols. crown 8vo. price 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CHAPTERS on LANGUAGE.  By FREDERIC W. FARRAR, F.R.S. Head Master of Marlborough College.  Crown 8vo. 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MANUAL of ENGLISH LITERATURE, Historical and Critical.  By THOMAS ARNOLD, M.A.  Second Edition.  Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>THREE CENTURIES of ENGLISH LITERATURE.  By CHARLES DUKE YONGE, Regius Professor of Modern History and English Literature in Queen's College, Belfast.  Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SOUTHEY'S DOCTOR, complete in One Volume.  Edited by the Rev. J. W. WARTER, B.D.  Square crown 8vo. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORICAL and CRITICAL COMMENTARY on the OLD TESTAMENT; with a New Translation.  By M. M. KALISCH, Ph. D. VOL. I.  <HI REND="italics">Genesis</HI>
098.sgm:, 8vo. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. or adapted for the General Reader, 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  VOL. II.  <HI REND="italics">Exodus</HI>
098.sgm:, 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. or adapted for the General Reader, 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  VOL. III.  <HI REND="italics">Leviticus</HI>
098.sgm:. PART I. 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. or adapted for the General Reader. 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  VOL. IV.  <HI REND="italics">Leviticus</HI>
098.sgm:, PART II. 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. or adapted for the General Reader, 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A HEBREW GRAMMAR, with EXERCISES.  By M. M. KALISCH, Ph.D. PART I.  <HI REND="italics">Outlines with Exercises</HI>
098.sgm:, 8vo. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:. KEY, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. PART II.  <HI REND="italics">Exceptional Forms and Constructions</HI>
098.sgm:, 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>A LATIN-ENGLISH DICTIONARY.  By JOHN T. WHITE, D.D. Oxon. and J. E. RIDDLE, M.A. Oxon. Third Edition, revised. 2 vols. 4to. pp. 2,128, price 42 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>White's College Latin-English Dictionary (Intermediate Size), abridged for the use of University Students from the Parent Work (as above).  Medium 8vo. pp. 1,048, price 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>White's Junior Student's Complete Latin-English and English-Latin Dictionary.  New Edition.  Square 12mo. pp. 1,058, price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Separately The ENGLISH-LATIN DICTIONARY, price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The LATIN-ENGLISH DICTIONARY, price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>An ENGLISH-GREEK LEXICON, containing all the Greek Words used by Writers of good authority.  By C. D. YONGE, B.A.  New Edition.  4to. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Mr. YONGE'S NEW LEXICON, English and Greek, abridged from his larger work (as above).  Revised Edition.  Square 12mo. 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A GREEK-ENGLISH LEXICON. Compiled by H. G. LIDDELL, D.D. Dean of Christ Church, and R. SCOTT, D.D. Dean of Rochester. Sixth Edition. Crown 4to. price 36 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A Lexicon, Greek and English, abridged from LIDDELL and SCOTT'S <HI REND="italics">Greek-English Lexicon</HI>
098.sgm:.  Fourteenth Edition. Square 12mo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A SANSKRIT-ENGLISH DICTIONARY, the Sanskrit words printed both in the original Devanagari and in Roman Letters.  Compiled by T. BENFEY, Prof. in the Univ. of Go&die;ttingen. 8vo. 52 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>WALKER'S PRONOUNCING DICTIONARY of the ENGLISH LANGUAGE.  Thoroughly revised Editions, by B. H. SMART. 8vo. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 16mo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A PRACTICAL DICTIONARY of the FRENCH and ENGLISH LANGUAGES.  By L. CONTANSEAU.  Fourteenth Edition.  Post 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Contanseau's Pocket Dictionary, French and English, abridged from the above by the Author.  New Edition, revised.  Square 18mo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>NEW PRACTICAL DICTIONARY of the GERMAN LANGUAGE; German-English and English-German.  By the Rev. W.L. BLACKLEY, M.A. and Dr. CARL MARTIN FRIEDLA&die;NDER.  Post 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The MASTERY of LANGUAGES; or, the Art of Speaking Foreign Tongues Idiomatically.  By THOMAS PRENDERGAST, late of the Civil Service at Madras.  Second Edition. 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Miscellaneous Works</HI>
098.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Popular Metaphysics</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ESSAYS and CONTRIBUTIONS of A. K. H. B., Author of `The Recreations of a Country Parson.'  Uniform Editions:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>Recreations of a Country Parson.  By A. K. H. B. FIRST and SECOND SERIES, crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The COMMON-PLACE PHILOSOPHER in TOWN and COUNTRY.  By A. K. H. B.  Crown 8vo. price 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Leisure Hours in Town; Essays Consolatory, &aelig;sthetical, Moral, Social, and Domestic.  By A. K. H. B. Crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The AUTUMN HOLIDAYS of a COUNTRY PARSON; Essays contributed to <HI REND="italics">Fraser's Magazine and to Good Words</HI>
098.sgm:.  By A. K. H. B. Crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The Graver Thoughts of a Country Parson.  By A. K. H. B. FIRST and SECOND SERIES, crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Critical Essays of a Country Parson, selected from Essays contributed to <HI REND="italics">Fraser's Magazine</HI>
098.sgm:.  By A. K. H. B. Crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Sunday Afternoons at the Parish Church of a Scottish University City.  By A. K. H. B. Crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Lessons of Middle Age; with some Account of various Cities and Men.  By A. K. H. B. Crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Counsel and Comfort spoken from a City Pulpit.  By A. K. H. B. Crown 8vo. price 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Changed Aspects of Unchanged Truths; Memorials of St. Andrews Sundays.  By A. K. H. B. Crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Present-day Thoughts; Memorials of St. Andrews Sundays.  By A. K. H. B. Crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SHORT STUDIES on GREAT SUBJECTS.  By JAMES ANTHONY FROUDE, M.A. late Fellow of Exeter Coll. Oxford.  2 vols. 8vo. price 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LORD MACAULAY'S MISCELLANEOUS WRITINGS:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>LIBRARY EDITION.  2 vols. 8vo. Portrait, 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PEOPLE'S EDITION.  1 vol. crown 8vo. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LORD MACAULAY'S MISCELLANEOUS WRITINGS and SPEECHES.</P>
098.sgm:<P>STUDENT'S EDITION, in crown 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The REV. SYDNEY SMITH'S MISCELLANEOUS WORKS; including his Contributions to the <HI REND="italics">Edinburgh Review</HI>
098.sgm:. Crown 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The Wit and Wisdom of the Rev. Sydney Smith; a Selection of the most memorable Passages in his Writings and Conversation. 16mo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ECLIPSE of FAITH; or, a Visit to a Religious Sceptic.  By HENRY ROGERS.  Twelfth Edition. Fcp. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Defence of the Eclipse of Faith, by its Author; a rejoinder to Dr. Newman's <HI REND="italics">Reply</HI>
098.sgm:.  Third Edition. Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Selections from the Correspondence of R. E. H. Greyson.  By the same Author.  Third Edition.  Crown 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>FAMILIES of SPEECH, Four Lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great Britain.  By the Rev. F. W. FARRAR, M.A. F.R.S. Head Master of Marlborough College.  Post 8vo. with Two Maps, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CHIPS from a GERMAN WORKSHOP; being Essays on the Science of Religion, and on Mythology, Traditions, and Customs.  By F. MAX MU&die;LLER, M.A. &amp;c. Foreign Member of the French Institute. 3 vols. 8vo. &pound;2.</P>
098.sgm:<P>UEBERWEG'S SYSTEM of LOGIC and HISTORY of LOGICAL DOCTRINES.  Translated, with Notes and Appendices, by T. M. LINDSAY, M.A. F.R.S.E. Examiner in Philosophy to the University of Edinburgh. 8vo. price 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ANALYSIS of the PHENOMENA of the HUMAN MIND.  By JAMES MILL.  A New Edition, with Notes, Illustrative and Critical, by ALEXANDER BAIN, ANDREW FINDLATER, and GEORGE GROTE.  Edited, with additional Notes, by JOHN STUART MILL.  2 vols. 8vo. price 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>An INTRODUCTION to MENTAL PHILOSOPHY, on the Inductive Method.  By J. D. MORELL, M.A. LL.D. 8vo. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ELEMENTS of PSYCHOLOGY, containing the Analysis of the Intellectual Powers.  By the same Author.  Post 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The SECRET of HEGEL: being the Hegelian System in Origin, Principle, Form, and Matter.  By J. H. STIRLING.  2 vols. 8vo. 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SIR WILLIAM HAMILTON; being the Philosophy of Perception: an Analysis.  By J. H. STIRLING. 8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The SENSES and the INTELLECT.  By ALEXANDER BAIN, M.D. Professor of Logic in the University of Aberdeen.  Third Edition. 8vo. 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MENTAL and MORAL SCIENCE: a Compendium of Psychology and Ethics.  By the same Author.  Second Edition.  Crown 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LOGIC, DEDUCTIVE and INDUCTIVE.  By the same Author.  In TWO PARTS, crown 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PART I.  <HI REND="italics">Deduction</HI>
098.sgm:, 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. PART II.  <HI REND="italics">Induction</HI>
098.sgm:, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>TIME and SPACE; a Metaphysical Essay.  By SHADWORTH H. HODGSON.  (This work covers the whole ground of Speculative Philosophy.) 8vo. price 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The Theory of Practice; an Ethical Inquiry.  By the same Author.  (This work, in conjunction with the foregoing, completes a system of Philosophy.)  2 vols. 8vo. price 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The PHILOSOPHY of NECESSITY; or, Natural Law as applicable to Mental, Moral, and Social Science.  By CHARLES BRAY.  Second Edition. 8vo. 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A Manual of Anthropology, or Science of Man, based on Modern Research.  By the same Author.  Crown 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>On Force, its Mental and Moral Correlates.  By the same Author.  8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The DISCOVERY of a NEW WORLD of BEING.  By GEORGE THOMSON.  Post 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A TREATISE on HUMAN NATURE; being an Attempt to Introduce the Experimental Method of Reasoning into Moral Subjects.  By DAVID HUME.  Edited, with Notes, &amp;c. by T. H. GREEN, Fellow, and T. H. GROSE, late Scholar, of Balliol College, Oxford.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">In the press</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ESSAYS MORAL, POLITICAL, and LITERARY.  By DAVID HUME.  By the same Editors.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">In the press</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Astronomy, Meteorology, Popular Geography</HI>
098.sgm:<P>OUTLINES of ASTRONOMY.  By Sir J. F. W. HERSCHEL, Bart.  M.A. Eleventh Edition, with 9 Plates and numerous Diagrams.  Square crown 8vo. price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ESSAYS on ASTRONOMY.  By RICHARD A. PROCTOR, B.A. Hon. Sec. R.A.S. (Dedicated, by permission, to the Astronomer Royal.)  8vo. with 10 Plates and 20 Wood Engravings, price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The SUN; RULER, LIGHT, FIRE, and LIFE of the PLANETARY SYSTEM.  By RICHARD A. PROCTOR, B.A. F.R.A.S.  With 10 Plates (7 coloured) and 107 Figures on Wood.  Crown 8vo. 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>OTHER WORLDS THAN OURS; the Plurality of Worlds Studied under the Light of Recent Scientific Researches.  By the same Author.  Second Edition, with 14 Illustrations.  Crown 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SATURN and its SYSTEM.  By the same Author. 8vo. with 14 Plates, 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SCHELLEN'S SPECTRUM ANALYSIS, in its application to Terrestrial Substances and the Physical Constitution of the Heavenly Bodies, Translated by JANE and C. LASSELL; edited, with Notes, by W. HUGGINS, LL.D. F.R.S.  With 13 Plates (6 coloured) and 223 Woodcuts.  8vo. price 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A NEW STAR ATLAS, for the Library, the School, and the Observatory, in Twelve Circular Maps (with Two Index Plates).  Intended as a Companion to `Webb's Celestial Objects for Common Telescopes.' With a Letterpress Introduction on the Study of the Stars, illustrated by 9 Diagrams.  By RICHARD A. PROCTOR, B.A. Hon. Sec. R.A.S.  Crown 8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CELESTIAL OBJECTS for COMMON TELESCOPES.  By the Rev. T. W. WEBB, M.A. F.R.A.S.  Third Edition, revised, with a large Map of the Moon, and several Woodcuts.  16mo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>NAVIGATION and NAUTICAL ASTRONOMY (Practical, Theoretical, Scientific) for the use of Students and Practical Men.  By J. MERRIFIELD, F.R.A.S and H. EVERS.  8vo. 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>DOVE'S LAW of STORMS, considered in connexion with the Ordinary Movements of the Atmosphere.  Translated by R. H. SCOTT, M.A. T.C.D. 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A GENERAL DICTIONARY of GEOGRAPHY, Descriptive, Physical, Statistical, and Historical: forming a complete Gazetteer of the World.  By A. KEITH JOHNSTON, LL.D. F.R.G.S.  Revised Edition.  8vo. 31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A MANUAL of GEOGRAPHY, Physical, Industrial, and Political.  By W. HUGHES, F.R.G.S.  With 6 Maps.  Fcp. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MAUNDER'S TREASURY of GEOGRAPHY, Physical, Historical, Descriptive, and Political.  Edited by W. HUGHES, F.R.G.S.  Revised Edition, with 7 Maps and 16 Plates.  Fcp. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. cloth, or 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The PUBLIC SCHOOLS ATLAS OF MODERN GEOGRAPHY.  In 31 Maps, exhibiting clearly the more important Physical Features of the Countries delineated, and Noting all the Chief Places of Historical, Commercial, or Social Interest.  Edited, with an Introduction, by the Rev. G. BUTLER, M.A. Imp. 4to. price 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:. sewed, or 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Natural History</HI>
098.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Popular Science</HI>
098.sgm:<P>TEXT-BOOKS of SCIENCE, MECHANICAL and PHYSICAL.  Edited by T. M. GOODEVE, M.A.  The following may now be had, price 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>1.  GOODEVE'S Mechanism.</P>
098.sgm:<P>2.  BLOXAM'S Metals.</P>
098.sgm:<P>3.  MILLER'S Inorganic Chemistry.</P>
098.sgm:<P>4.  GRIFFIN'S Algebra and Trigonometry.</P>
098.sgm:<P>5.  WATSON'S Plane and Solid Geometry.</P>
098.sgm:<P>6.  MAXWELL'S Theory of Heat.</P>
098.sgm:<P>7.  MERRIFIELD'S Technical Arithmetic and Mensuration.</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>ELEMENTARY TREATISE on PHYSICS, Experimental and Applied.  Translated and edited from GANOT'S <HI REND="italics">Ele&acute;ments de Physique</HI>
098.sgm: (with the Author's sanction) by E. ATKINSON, Ph.D. F.C.S.  New Edition, revised and enlarged; with a Coloured Plate and 726 Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>NATURAL PHILOSOPHY for GENERAL READERS and YOUNG PERSONS; being a Course of Physics divested of Mathematical Formul&aelig;, expressed in the language of daily life, and illustrated with Explanatory Figures, familiarly elucidating the Principles and Facts.  Translated and edited from GANOT'S <HI REND="italics">Cours de Physique</HI>
098.sgm:, with the Author's sanction, by E. ATKINSON, Ph.D. F.C.S.  Crown 8vo. with Woodcuts, price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SOUND: a Course of Eight Lectures delivered at the Royal Institution of Great Britain.  By JOHN TYNDALL, LL.D. F.R.S.  New Edition, crown 8vo. with Portrait of <HI REND="italics">M. Chladni</HI>
098.sgm: and 169 Woodcuts, price 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HEAT a MODE of MOTION.  By Professor JOHN TYNDALL, LL.D. F.R.S.  Fourth Edition.  Crown 8vo. with Woodcuts.  10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>RESEARCHES in MOLECULAR PHYSICS by MEANS of RADIANT HEAT; a Series of Memoirs collected from the Philosophical Transactions.  By JOHN TYNDALL, LL.D. F.R.S.  1 vol. 8vo.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">In the press</HI>
098.sgm:<P>RESEARCHES on DIAMAGNETISM and MAGNE-CRYSTALLIC ACTION; including the Question of Diamagnetic Polarity.  By the same Author.  With 6 Plates and many Woodcuts.  8vo. price 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>NOTES of a COURSE of SEVEN LECTURES on ELECTRICAL PHENOMENA and THEORIES, delivered at the Royal Institution, A.D. 1870.  By Professor TYNDALL.  Crown 8vo. 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. sewed, or 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>NOTES of a COURSE of NINE LECTURES on LIGHT delivered at the Royal Institution, A.D. 1869.  By the same Author.  Crown 8vo. price 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. sewed, or 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>FRAGMENTS of SCIENCE.  By JOHN TYNDALL, LL.D. F.R.S.  Third Edition.  8vo. price 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LIGHT SCIENCE for LEISURE HOURS; a Series of Familiar Essays on Scientific Subjects, Natural Phenomena, &amp;c.  By R. A. PROCTOR, B.A. F.R.A.S.  Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LIGHT: Its Influence on Life and Health.  By FORBES WINSLOW, M.D. D.C.L. Oxon. (Hon.). Fcp. 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A TREATISE on ELECTRICITY, in Theory and Practice.  By A. DE LA RIVE, Prof. in the Academy of Geneva.  Translated by C. V. WALKER, F.R.S. 3 vols. 8vo. with Woodcuts, &pound;3 13 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The CORRELATION of PHYSICAL FORCES.  By W. R. GROVE, Q.C. V.P.R.S.  Fifth Edition, revised, and followed by a Discourse on Continuity.  8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Discourse on Continuity</HI>
098.sgm:, separately, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>VAN DER HOEVEN'S HANDBOOK of ZOOLOGY.  Translated from the Second Dutch Edition by the Rev. W. CLARK, M.D. F.R.S. 2 vols. 8vo. with 24 Plates of Figures, 60 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Professor OWEN'S LECTURES on the COMPARATIVE ANATOMY and Physiology of the Invertebrate Animals.  Second Edition, with 235 Woodcuts.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The COMPARATIVE ANATOMY and PHYSIOLOGY of the VERTE-brate Animals.  By RICHARD OWEN, F.R.S. D.C.L.  With 1,472 Woodcuts.  3 vols. 8vo. &pound;3 13 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The ORIGIN of CIVILISATION and the PRIMITIVE CONDITION of MAN; Mental and Social Condition of Savages.  By Sir JOHN LUBBOCK, Bart, M.P. F.R.S.  Second Edition, with 25 Woodcuts.  8vo. price 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The PRIMITIVE INHABITANTS of SCANDINAVIA: containing a Description of the Implements, Dwellings, Tombs, and Mode of Living of the Savages in the North of Europe during the Stone Age.  By SVEN NILSSON. With 16 Plates of Figures and 3 Woodcuts.  8vo. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BIBLE ANIMALS; being a Description of every Living Creature mentioned in the Scriptures, from the Ape to the Coral.  By the Rev. J. G. WOOD, M.A. F.L.S.  With about 100 Vignettes on Wood.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HOMES WITHOUT HANDS; a Description of the Habitations of Animals, classed according to their Principle of Construction.  By the Rev. J. G. WOOD, M.A. F.L.S.  With about 140 Vignettes on Wood.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>INSECTS AT HOME; a Popular Account of British Insects, their Structure, Habits, and Transformations.  By the Rev. J. G. WOOD, M.A. F.L.S.  With upwards of 700 Illustrations engraved on Wood (1 coloured and 21 full size of page).  8vo. price 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>STRANGE DWELLINGS; a description of the Habitations of Animals, abridged from `Homes without Hands.'  By the Rev. J. G. WOOD, M.A. F.L.S.  With about 60 Woodcut Illustrations.  Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A FAMILIAR HISTORY of BIRDS.  By E. STANLEY, D.D. F.R.S. late Lord Bishop of Norwich.  Seventh Edition, with Woodcuts. Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HARMONIES of NATURE and UNITY of CREATION.  By Dr. GEORGE HARTWIG. 8vo. with numerous Illustrations, 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The SEA and its LIVING WONDERS.  By the same Author.  Third (English) Edition.  8vo. with many Illustrations, 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The TROPICAL WORLD.  By Dr. GEO. HARTWIG.  With 8 Chromoxylographs and 172 Woodcuts.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The SUBTERRANEAN WORLD.  By Dr. GEORGE HARTWIG.  With 3 Maps and about 80 Woodcuts, including 8 full size of page.  8vo. price 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The POLAR WORLD, a Popular Description of Man and Nature in the Arctic and Antarctic Regions of the Globe.  By Dr. GEORGE HARTWIG.  With 8 Chromoxylographs, 3 Maps, and 85 Woodcuts.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>KIRBY and SPENCE'S INTRODUCTION to ENTOMOLOGY, or Elements of the Natural History of Insects.  7th Edition.  Crown 8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MAUNDER'S TREASURY of NATURAL HISTORY, or Popular Dictionary of Zoology.  Revised and corrected by T. S. COBBOLD, M.D. Fcp. with 900 Woodcuts, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. cloth, or 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The TREASURY of BOTANY, or Popular Dictionary of the Vegetable Kingdom; including a Glossary of Botanical Terms.  Edited by J. LINDLEY, F.R.S. and T. MOORE, F.L.S. assisted by eminent Contributors.  With 274 Woodcuts and 20 Steel Plates.  Two Parts, fcp. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. cloth, or 19 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ELEMENTS of BOTANY for FAMILIES and SCHOOLS.  Tenth Edition, revised by THOMAS MOORE, F.L.S.  Fcp. with 154 Woodcuts.  2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ROSE AMATEUR'S GUIDE.  By THOMAS RIVERS.  Ninth Edition, Fcp. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>LOUDON'S ENCYCLOP&AElig;DIA of PLANTS; comprising the Specific Character, Description, Culture, History &amp;c. of all the Plants found in Great Britain.  With upwards of 12,000 Woodcuts.  8vo. 42 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MAUNDER'S SCIENTIFIC and LITERARY TREASURY.  New Edition, thoroughly revised and in great part re-written, with above 1,000 new Articles, by J. Y. JOHNSON, Corr. M.Z.S. Fcp. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. cloth, or 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A DICTIONARY of SCIENCE, LITERATURE, and ART.  Fourth Edition, re-edited by W. T. BRANDE (the original Author), and GEORGE W. COX, M.A. assisted by contributors of eminent Scientific and Literary Acquirements.  3 vols. medium 8vo. price 63 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Chemistry, Medicine, Surgery</HI>
098.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Allied Sciences</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A DICTIONARY of CHEMISTRY and the Allied Branches of other Sciences.  By HENRY WATTS, F.R.S. assisted by eminent Contributors Complete in 5 vols. medium 8vo. &pound;7 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Supplement; bringing the Record of Chemical Discovery down to the end of the year 1869; including also several Additions to, and Corrections of, former results which have appeared in 1870 and 1871.  By HENRY WATTS, B.A. F.R.S. F.C.S. Assisted by eminent Scientific and Practical Chemists, Contributors to the Original Work.  8vo. price 31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ELEMENTS of CHEMISTRY, Theoretical and Practical.  By W. ALLEN MILLER, M.D. late Prof. of Chemistry, King's Coll. London.  Fourth Edition. 3 vols. 8vo. &pound;3.  PART I. CHEMICAL PHYSICS, 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  PART II, INORGANIC CHEMISTRY, 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  PART III. ORGANIC CHEMISTRY, 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>OUTLINES of CHEMISTRY; or, Brief Notes of Chemical Facts.  By WILLIAM ODLING, M.B. F.R.S.  Crown 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A Course of Practical Chemistry, for the use of Medical Students.  By the same Author.  New Edition, with 70 Woodcuts.  Crown 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Lectures on Animal Chemistry, delivered at the Royal College of Physicians in 1865.  By the same Author.  Crown 8vo. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SELECT METHODS in CHEMICAL ANALYSIS, chiefly INORGANIC.  By WILLIAM CROOKES, F.R.S.  With 22 Woodcuts.  Crown 8vo. price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CHEMICAL NOTES for the LECTURE ROOM.  By THOMAS WOOD, F.C.S. 2 vols. crown 8vo.  I. on Heat &amp;c. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  II. on the Metals, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The DIAGNOSIS, PATHOLOGY, and TREATMENT of DISEASES of Women; including the Diagnosis of Pregnancy.  By GRAILY HEWITT, M.D.  Second Edition, enlarged; with 116 Woodcut Illustrations.  8vo. 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>On SOME DISORDERS of the NERVOUS SYSTEM in CHILDHOOD; being the Lumleian Lectures delivered before the Royal College of Physicians in March 1871.  By CHARLES WEST, M.D.  Crown 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LECTURES on the DISEASES of INFANCY and CHILDHOOD.  By CHARLES WEST, M.D. &amp;c.  Fifth Edition, revised and enlarged.  8vo. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>A SYSTEM of SURGERY, Theoretical and Practical.  In Treatises by Various Authors.  Edited by T. HOLMES, M.A. &amp;c. Surgeon and Lecturer on Surgery at St. George's Hospital, and Surgeon-in-Chief to the Metropolitan Police.  Second Edition, thoroughly revised, with numerous Illustrations.  5 vols. 8vo. &pound;5 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The SURGICAL TREATMENT of CHILDREN'S DISEASES.  By T. HOLMES, M.A. &amp;c. late Surgeon to the Hospital for Sick Children.  Second Edition, with 9 Plates and 112 Woodcuts.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LECTURES on the PRINCIPLES and PRACTICE of PHYSIC.  By Sir THOMAS WATSON, Bart. M.D.  Fifth Edition, thoroughly revised.  2 vols. 8vo. price 36 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LECTURES on SURGICAL PATHOLOGY.  By Sir JAMES PAGET, Bart. F.R.S.  Third Edition, revised and re-edited by the Author and Professor W. TURNER, M.B.  8vo. with 131 Woodcuts, 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>COOPER'S DICTIONARY of PRACTICAL SURGERY and Encyclop&aelig;dia of Surgical Science.  New Edition, brought down to the present time.  By S.A. LANE, Surgeon to St. Mary's Hospital, assisted by various Eminent Surgeons.  VOL. II. 8vo. completing the work.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">In the press</HI>
098.sgm:<P>On CHRONIC BRONCHITIS, especially as connected with GOUT, EMPHYSEMA, and DISEASES of the HEART.  By E. HEADLAM GREENHOW, M.D. F.R.C.P. &amp;c.  8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The CLIMATE of the SOUTH of FRANCE as SUITED to INVALIDS; with Notices of Mediterranean and other Winter Stations.  By C. T. WILLIAMS, M.A. M.D. Oxon.  Assistant-Physician to the Hospital for Consumption at Brompton.  Second Edition.  Crown 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>REPORTS on the PROGRESS of PRACTICAL and SCIENTIFIC MEDICINE in Different Parts of the World.  Edited by HORACE DOBELL, M.D. assisted by numerous and distinguished Coadjutors.  Vols. I. and II. 8vo. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PULMONARY CONSUMPTION; its Nature, Varieties, and Treatment: with an Analysis of One Thousand Cases to exemplify its Duration.  By C.J.B. WILLIAMS, M.D. F.R.S. and C.T. WILLIAMS, M.A. M.D. Oxon.  Post 8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CLINICAL LECTURES on DISEASES of the LIVER, JAUNDICE, and ABDOMINAL DROPSY.  By CHARLES MURCHISON, M.D.  Post 8vo. with 25 Woodcuts, 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ANATOMY, DESCRIPTIVE and SURGICAL.  By HENRY GRAY, F.R.S.  With about 400 Woodcuts from Dissections.  Fifth Edition, by T. HOLMES, M.A. Cantab. with a new Introduction by the Editor.  Royal 8vo. 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>OUTLINES of PHYSIOLOGY, Human and Comparative.  By JOHN MARSHALL, F.R.C.S. Surgeon to the University College Hospital.  2 vols. crown 8vo. with 122 Woodcuts, 32 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PHYSIOLOGICAL ANATOMY and PHYSIOLOGY of MAN.  By the late R. B. TODD, M.D. F.R.S. and W. BOWMAN, F.R.S. of King's College.  With numerous Illustrations.  VOL. II. 8vo. 25 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  VOL. I. New Edition by Dr. LIONEL S. BEALE. F.R.S. in course of publication, with many Illustrations.  PARTS I. and II. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>COPLAND'S DICTIONARY of PRACTICAL MEDICINE, abridged from the larger work and throughout brought down to the present State of Medical Science.  8vo. 36 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>On the MANUFACTURE of BEET-ROOT SUGAR in ENGLAND and IRELAND.  By WILLIAM CROOKES, F.R.S.  Crown 8vo. with 11 Woodcuts, 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>DR. PEREIRA'S ELEMENTS of MATERIA MEDICA and THERAPEUTICS, abridged and adapted for the use of Medical and Pharmaceutical Practitioners and Students; and comprising all the Medicines of the British Pharmacop&oelig;ia, with such others as are frequently ordered in Prescriptions or required by the Physician.  Edited by Professor BENTLEY, F.L.S. &amp;c. and by Dr. REDWOOD, F.C.S. &amp;c.  With 125 Woodcut Illustrations.  8vo. price 25 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">The Fine Arts</HI>
098.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Illustrated Editions</HI>
098.sgm:<P>IN FAIRYLAND; Pictures from the Elf-World.  By RICHARD DOYLE.  With a Poem by W. ALLINGHAM.  With Sixteen Plates, containing Thirty-six Designs printed in Colours.  Folio, 31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HALF-HOUR LECTURES on the HISTORY and PRACTICE of the Fine and Ornamental Arts.  By WILLIAM B. SCOTT.  New Edition, revised by the Author; with 50 Woodcuts.  Crown 8vo. 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ALBERT DURER, HIS LIFE and WORKS; including Autobiographical Papers and Complete Catalogues.  By WILLIAM B. SCOTT.  With Six Etchings by the Author, and other Illustrations.  8vo. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The CHORALE BOOK for ENGLAND; the Hymns translated by Miss C. WINKWORTH; the Tunes arranged by Prof. W. S. BENNETT and OTTO GOLDSCHMIDT.  Fcp. 4to. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The NEW TESTAMENT, illustrated with Wood Engravings after the Early Masters, chiefly of the Italian School.  Crown 4to. 63 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. cloth, gilt top; or &pound;5 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LYRA GERMANICA; the Christian Year.  Translated by CATHERINE WINKWORTH; with 125 Illustrations on Wood drawn by J. LEIGHTON, F.S.A. 4to. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LYRA GERMANICA; the Christian Life.  Translated by CATHERINE WINKWORTH; with about 200 Woodcut Illustrations by J. LEIGHTON, F.S.A. and other Artists.  4to. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The LIFE of MAN SYMBOLISED by the MONTHS of the YEAR.  Text selected by R. PIGOT; Illustrations on Wood from Original Designs by J. LEIGHTON, F.S.A. 4to. 42 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CATS' and FARLIE'S MORAL EMBLEMS; with Aphorisms, Adages, and Proverbs of all Nations.  121 Illustrations on Wood by J. LEIGHTON, F.S.A. Text selected by R. PIGOT.  Imperial 8vo. 31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SACRED and LEGENDARY ART.  By Mrs. JAMESON.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Legends of the Saints and Martyrs.  New Edition, with 19 Etchings and 187 Woodcuts.  2 vols. square crown 8vo. 31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Legends of the Monastic Orders.  New Edition, with 11 Etchings and 88 Woodcuts.  1 vol. square crown 8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>SACRED and LEGENDARY ART.  By Mrs. JAMESON.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Legends of the Madonna.  New Edition, with 27 Etchings and 165 Woodcuts.  1 vol. square crown 8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The History of Our Lord, with that of his Types and Precursors.  Completed by Lady EASTLAKE.  Revised Edition, with 31 Etchings and 281 Woodcuts.  2 vols. square crown 8vo. 42 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">The Useful Arts, Manufactures</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of the GOTHIC REVIVAL; an Attempt to shew how far the taste for Medi&aelig;val Architecture was retained in England during the last two centuries, and has been re-developed in the present.  By C. L. EASTLAKE, Architect.  With 48 Illustrations (36 full size of page).  Imperial 8vo. price 31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>GWILT'S ENCYCLOP&AElig;DIA of ARCHITECTURE, with above 1,600 Engravings on Wood.  Fifth Edition, revised and enlarged by WYATT PAPWORTH.  8vo. 52 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A MANUAL of ARCHITECTURE: being a Concise History and Explanation of the principal Styles of European Architecture, Ancient, Medi&aelig;val, and Renaissance; with a Glossary of Technical Terms.  By THOMAS MITCHELL.  Crown 8vo. with 150 Woodcuts, 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HINTS on HOUSEHOLD TASTE in FURNITURE, UPHOLSTERY, and other Details.  By CHARLES L. EASTLAKE, Architect.  Second Edition, with about 90 Illustrations.  Square crown 8vo. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PRINCIPLES of MECHANISM, designed for the Use of Students in the Universities, and for Engineering Students generally.  By R. WILLIS, M.A. F.R.S. &amp;c. Jacksonian Professor in the University of Cambridge.  Second Edition, enlarged; with 374 Woodcuts.  8vo. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LATHES and TURNING, Simple, Mechanical, and ORNAMENTAL.  By W. HENRY NORTHCOTT.  With about 240 Illustrations on Steel and Wood.  8vo. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>URE'S DICTIONARY of ARTS, MANUFACTURES, and MINES, Sixth Edition, chiefly rewritten and greatly enlarged by ROBERT HUNT, F.R.S. assisted by numerous Contributors eminent in Science and the Arts, and familiar with Manufactures.  With above 2,000 Woodcuts.  3vols. medium 8vo. price &pound;4 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HANDBOOK of PRACTICAL TELEGRAPHY.  By R. S. CULLEY, Memb. Inst. C.E. Engineer-in-Chief of Telegraphs to the Post Office.  Fifth Edition, with 118 Woodcuts and 9 Plates.  8vo. price 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ENCYCLOP&AElig;DIA of CIVIL ENGINEERING, Historical, Theoretical, and Practical.  By E. CRESY, C.E.  With above 3,000 Woodcuts.  8vo. 42 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>TREATISE on MILLS and MILLWORK.  By Sir W. FAIRBAIRN, Bart. F.R.S.  New Edition, with 18 Plates and 322 Woodcuts.  2 vols. 8vo. 32 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>USEFUL INFORMATION for ENGINEERS.  By the same Author.  FIRST, SECOND, and THIRD SERIES, with many Plates and Woodcuts, 3 vols. crown 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The APPLICATION of CAST and WROUGHT IRON to Building Purposes.  By Sir W. FAIRBAIRN, Bart. F.R.S.  Fourth Edition, enlarged; with 6 Plates and 118 Woodcuts.  8vo. price 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>IRON SHIP BUILDING, its History and Progress, as comprised in a Series of Experimental Researches.  By the same Author.  With 4 Plates and 130 Woodcuts.  8vo. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A TREATISE on the STEAM ENGINE, in its various Applications to Mines, Mills, Steam Navigation, Railways and Agriculture.  By J. BOURNE. C.E. Eighth Edition; with Portrait, 37 Plates, and 546 Woodcuts.  4to. 42 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CATECHISM of the STEAM ENGINE, in its various Applications to Mines, Mills, Steam Navigation, Railways, and Agriculture.  By the same Author.  With 89 Woodcuts.  Fcp. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HANDBOOK of the STEAM ENGINE.  By the same Author, forming a KEY to the Catechism of the Steam Engine, with 67 Woodcuts.  Fcp. 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BOURNE'S RECENT IMPROVEMENTS in the STEAM ENGINE in its various applications to Mines, Mills, Steam Navigation, Railways, and Agriculture.  Being a supplement to the Author's `Catechism of the Steam Engine.'  By JOHN BOURNE, C.E.  New Edition, including many New Examples; with 124 Woodcuts.  Fcp. 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A TREATISE on the SCREW PROPELLER, SCREW VESSELS, and Screw Engines, as adapted for purposes of Peace and War; with Notices of other Methods of Propulsion, Tables of the Dimensions and Performance of Screw Steamers, and detailed Specifications of Ships and Engines.  By J. BOURNE, C.E.  New Edition, with 54 Plates and 287 Woodcuts. 4to. 63 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>EXAMPLES of MODERN STEAM, AIR, and GAS ENGINES of the most Approved Types, as employed for Pumping, for Driving Machinery, for Locomotion, and for Agriculture, minutely and practically described.  By JOHN BOURNE, C.E.  In course of publication in 24 Parts, price 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A HISTORY of the MACHINE-WROUGHT HOSIERY and LACE Manufactures. By WILLIAM FELKIN, F.L.S. F.S.S.  Royal 8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PRACTICAL TREATISE on METALLURGY, adapted from the last German Edition of Professor KERL'S <HI REND="italics">Metallurgy</HI>
098.sgm: by W. CROOKES, F.R.S. &amp;c. and E. RO&die;HRIG, Ph.D. M.E.  With 625 Woodcuts.  3 vols. 8vo. price &pound;4 19 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MITCHELL'S MANUAL of PRACTICAL ASSAYING.  Third Edition, for the most part re-written, with all the recent Discoveries incorporated, by W. CROOKES, F.R.S.  With 188 Woodcuts.  8vo. 28 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ART of PERFUMERY; the History and Theory of Odours, and the Methods of Extracting the Aromas of Plants.  By Dr. PIESSE, F.C.S. Third Edition, with 53 Woodcuts.  Crown 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LOUDON'S ENCYCLOP&AElig;DIA of AGRICULTURE: comprising the Laying-out, Improvement, and Management of Landed Property, and the Cultivation and Economy of the Productions of Agriculture.  With 1,100 Woodcuts.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Loudon's Encyclop&aelig;dia of Gardening: comprising the Theory and Practice of Horticu&die;lture, Floriculture, Arboriculture, and Landscape Gardening.  With 1,000 Woodcuts.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BAYLDON'S ART of VALUING RENTS and TILLAGES, and Claims of Tenants upon Quitting Farms, both at Michaelmas and Lady-Day.  Eighth Edition, revised by J. C. MORTON.  8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Religious</HI>
098.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Moral Works</HI>
098.sgm:<P>AUTHORITY and CONSCIENCE; a Free Debate on the Tendency of Dogmatic Theology and on the Characteristics of Faith.  Edited by CONWAY MOREL.  Post 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>REASONS of FAITH; or, the ORDER of the Christian Argument Developed and Explained.  By the Rev. G. S. DREW, M.A. Second Edition, revised and enlarged.  Fcp. 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CHRIST the CONSOLER; a Book of Comfort for the Sick.  With a Preface by the Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of Carlisle.  Small 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The TRUE DOCTRINE of the EUCHARIST.  By THOMAS S. L. VOGAN, D.D. Canon and Prebendary of Chichester and Rural Dean.  8vo. price 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CHRISTIAN SACERDOTALISM, viewed from a Layman's standpoint or tried by Holy Scripture and the Early Fathers; with a short Sketch of the State of the Church from the end of the Third to the Reformation in the beginning of the Sixteenth Century.  By JOHN JARDINE, M.A. LL.D. 8vo. price 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SYNONYMS of the OLD TESTAMENT, their BEARING on CHRISTIAN FAITH and PRACTICE.  By the Rev. ROBERT BAKER GIRDLESTONE, M.A.  8vo. price 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>An INTRODUCTION to the THEOLOGY of the CHURCH of ENGLAND, in an Exposition of the Thirty-nine Articles.  By the Rev. T. P. BOULTBEE, LL.D.  Fcp. 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>FUNDAMENTALS; or, Bases of Belief concerning MAN and GOD: a Handbook of Mental, Moral, and Religious Philosophy.  By the Rev. T. GRIFFITH, M.A.  8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PRAYERS SELECTED from the COLLECTION of the late BARON BUNSEN, and Translated by CATHERINE WINKWORTH.  PART I. For the Family.  PART II. Prayers and Meditations for Private Use.  Fcp. 8vo. price 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The STUDENT'S COMPENDIUM of the BOOK of COMMON PRAYER; being Notes Historical and Explanatory of the Liturgy of the Church of England.  By the Rev. H. ALLDEN NASH.  Fcp. 8vo. price 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The TRUTH of the BIBLE: Evidence from the Mosaic and other Records of Creation; the Origin and Antiquity of Man; the Science of Scripture; and from the Arch&aelig;ology of Different Nations of the Earth.  By the Rev. B. W. SAVILE, M.A.  Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CHURCHES and their CREEDS.  By the Rev. Sir PHILIP PERRING, Bart. late Scholar of Trin. Coll. Cambridge, and University Medallist.  Crown 8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CONSIDERATIONS on the REVISION of the ENGLISH NEW TESTAMENT.  By C. J. ELLICOTT, D.D. Lord Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol.  Post 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>An EXPOSITION of the 39 ARTICLES, Historical and Doctrinal.  By E. HAROLD BROWNE, D.D. Lord Bishop of Ely.  Ninth Edit. 8vo. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The LIFE and EPISTLES of ST. PAUL.  By the Rev. W. J. CONYBEARE, M.A., and the Very Rev. J. S. HOWSON, D.D. Dean of Chester:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>LIBRARY EDITION, with all the Original Illustrations, Maps, Landscapes on Steel, Woodcuts, &amp;c.  2 vols. 4to. 48 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>INTERMEDIATE EDITION, with a Selection of Maps, Plates, and Woodcuts. 2 vols. square crown 8vo. 31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>STUDENT'S EDITION, revised and condensed, with 46 Illustrations and Maps.  1 vol. crown 8vo. price 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The VOYAGE and SHIPWRECK of ST. PAUL; with Dissertations on the Life and Writings of St. Luke and the Ships and Navigation of the Ancients.  By JAMES SMITH, F.R.S.  Third Edition.  Crown 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A CRITICAL and GRAMMATICAL COMMENTARY on ST. PAUL'S Epistles.  By C. J. ELLICOTT, D.D. Lord Bishop of Gloucester &amp; Bristol. 8vo.</P>
098.sgm:<P>Galatians, Fourth Edition, 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Ephesians, Fourth Edition, 8 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Pastoral Epistles, Fourth Edition, 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Philippians, Colossians, and Philemon, Third Edition, 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Thessalonians, Third Edition, 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORICAL LECTURES on the LIFE of OUR LORD JESUS CHRIST: being the Hulsean Lectures for 1859.  By C. J. ELLICOTT, D.D. Lord Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol.  Fifth Edition.  8vo. price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>EVIDENCE of the TRUTH of the CHRISTIAN RELIGION derived from the Literal Fulfilment of Prophecy.  By ALEXANDER KEITH, D.D. 37th Edition, with numerous Plates, in square 8vo. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:.; also the 39th Edition, in post 8vo. with 5 Plates, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>History and Destiny of the World and Church, according to Scripture.  By the same Author.  Square 8vo. with 40 Illustrations, 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>An INTRODUCTION to the STUDY of the NEW TESTAMENT, Critical, Exegetical, and Theological.  By the Rev. S. DAVIDSON, D.D. LL.D.  2vols. 8vo. 30 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HARTWELL HORNE'S INTRODUCTION to the CRITICAL STUDY and Knowledge of the Holy Scriptures, as last revised; with 4 Maps and 22 Woodcuts and Facsimiles.  4 vols. 8vo. 42 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>EWALD'S HISTORY of ISRAEL to the DEATH of MOSES.  Translated from the German.  Edited, with a Preface and an Appendix, by RUSSELL MARTINEAU, M.A.  Second Edition.  2 vols. 8vo. 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  VOLS. III. and IV. edited by J. E. CARPENTER, M.A. price 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HISTORY and LITERATURE of the ISRAELITES, according to the Old Testament and the Apocrypha.  By C. DE ROTHSCHILD and A. DE ROTHSCHILD.  Second Edition, revised.  2 vols. post 8vo. with Two Maps, price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:.  Abridged Edition, in 1 vol. fcp. 8vo. price 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The SEE of ROME in the MIDDLE AGES.  By the Rev. OSWALD J. REICHEL, B.C.L. and M.A.  8vo. price 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The TREASURY of BIBLE KNOWLEDGE; being a Dictionary of the Books, Persons, Places, Events, and other matters of which mention is made in Holy Scripture.  By Rev. J. AYRE, M.A.  With Maps.  16 Plates, and numerous Woodcuts.  Fcp. 8vo price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. cloth, or 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>The GREEK TESTAMENT; with Notes, Grammatical and Exegetical.  By the Rev. W. WEBSTER, M.A. and the Rev. W. F. WILKINSON, M.A. 2 vols. 8vo. &pound;2 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>EVERY-DAY SCRIPTURE DIFFICULTIES explained and illustrated.  By J. E. PRESCOTT, M.A. VOL. I.  <HI REND="italics">Matthew</HI>
098.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Mark</HI>
098.sgm:; VOL. II.  <HI REND="italics">Luke</HI>
098.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">John</HI>
098.sgm:.  2 vols. 8vo. 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The PENTATEUCH and BOOK of JOSHUA CRITICALLY EXAMINED.  By the Right Rev. J. W. COLENSO, D.D. Lord Bishop of Natal.  People's Edition, in 1 vol. crown 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PART VI.  <HI REND="italics">the Later Legislation of the Pentateuch</HI>
098.sgm:. 8vo. price 24 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The FORMATION OF CHRISTENDOM.  By T. W. ALLIES.  PARTS I. and II. 8vo. price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ENGLAND and CHRISTENDOM.  By ARCHBISHOP MANNING, D.D. Post 8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A VIEW of the SCRIPTURE REVELATIONS CONCERNING a FUTURE STATE.  By RICHARD WHATELY, D.D. late Archbishop of Dublin.  Ninth Edition.  Fcp. 8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>THOUGHTS for the AGE.  By ELIZABETH M. SEWELL, Author of `Amy Herbert' &amp;c.  New Edition, revised.  Fcp. 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Passing Thoughts on Religion.  By the same Author.  Fcp. 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Self-Examination before Confirmation.  By the same Author.  32mo. price 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Readings for a Month Preparatory to Confirmation, from Writers of the Early and English Church.  By the same Author.  Fcp. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Readings for Every Day in Lent, compiled from the Writings of Bishop JEREMY TAYLOR.  By the same Author.  Fcp. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Preparation for the Holy Communion; the Devotions chiefly from the works of JEREMY TAYLOR.  By the same Author.  32mo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>THOUGHTS for the HOLY WEEK for Young Persons.  By the Author of `Amy Herbert.'  New Edition.  Fcp. 8vo. 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PRINCIPLES of EDUCATION Drawn from Nature and Revelation, and applied to Female Education in the Upper Classes.  By the Author of `Amy Herbert.'  2 vols. fcp. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SINGERS and SONGS of the CHURCH: being Biographical Sketches of the Hymn-Writers in all the principal Collections; with Notes on their Psalms and Hymns.  By JOSIAH MILLER, M.A. Post 8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LYRA GERMANICA, translated from the German by Miss C. WINKWORTH.  FIRST SERIES, Hymns for the Sundays and Chief Festivals.  SECOND SERIES, the Christian Life.  Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>`SPIRITUAL SONGS' for the SUNDAYS and HOLIDAYS throughout the Year.  By J. S. B. MONSELL, LL.D. Vicar of Egham and Rural Dean.  Fourth Edition, Sixth Thousand.  Fcp. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The BEATUTUDES: Abasement before God; Sorrow for Sin; Meekness of Spirit; Desire for Holiness; Gentleness; Purity of Heart; the Peacemakers; Sufferings for Christ.  By the same.  Third Edition.  Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>His PRESENCE--not his MEMORY, 1855.  By the same Author, in Memory of his SON.  Sixth Edition.  16mo. 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ENDEAVOURS after the CHRISTIAN LIFE: Discourses.  By JAMES MARTINEAU.  Fourth Edition, carefully revised.  Post 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>WHATELY'S INTRODUCTORY LESSONS on the CHRISTIAN Evidences.  18mo. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>FOUR DISCOURSES of CHRYSOSTOM, chiefly on the Parable of the Rich Man and Lazarus.  Translated by F. ALLEN, B.A. Crown 8vo. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BISHOP JEREMY TAYLOR'S ENTIRE WORKS.  With Life by BISHOP HEBER.  Revised and corrected by the Rev. C. P. EDEN, 10 vols. price &pound;5 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Travels, Voyages</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HOW to SEE NORWAY.  By Captain J. R. CAMPBELL.  With Map and 5 Woodcuts.  Fcp. 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PAU and the PYRENEES.  By Count HENRY RUSSELL, Member of the Alpine Club, &amp;c.  With 2 Maps.  Fcp. 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SCENES in the SUNNY SOUTH; including the Atlas Mountains and the Oases of the Sahara in Algeria.  By Lieut.-Col. the Hon. C. S. VEREKER, M.A. Commandant of the Limerick Artillery Militia.  2 vols. post 8vo. price 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The PLAYGROUND of EUROPE.  By LESLIE STEPHEN, late President of the Alpine Club.  With 4 Illustrations engraved on Wood by E. Whymper.  Crown 8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CADORE; or, TITIAN'S COUNTRY.  By JOSIAH GILBERT, one of the Authors of `The Dolomite Mountains.'  With Map, Facsimile, and 40 Illustrations.  Imperial 8vo. 31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HOURS of EXERCISE in the ALPS.  By JOHN TYNDALL, LL.D. F.R.S.  Second Edition, with 7 Woodcuts by E. WHYMPER.  Crown 8vo. price 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>TRAVELS in the CENTRAL CAUCASUS and BASHAN.  Including Visits to Ararat and Tabreez and Ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz.  By D. W. FRESHFIELD.  Square crown 8vo. with Maps, &amp;c. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PICTURES in TYROL and Elsewhere.  From a Family Sketch-Book.  By the Authoress of `A Voyage en Zigzag,' &amp;c.  Second Edition.  Small 4to. with numerous Illustrations, 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HOW WE SPENT the SUMMER; or, a Voyage en Zigzag in Switzerland and Tyrol with some Members of the ALPINE CLUB.  From the Sketch-Book of one of the Party.  In oblong 4to. with 300 Illustrations, 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BEATEN TRACKS; or, Pen and Pencil Sketches in Italy.  By the Authoress of `A Voyage en Zigzag.'  With 42 Plates, containing about 200 Sketches from Drawings made on the Spot.  8vo. 16 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>MAP of the CHAIN of MONT BLANC, from an actual Survey in 1863-1864.  By A. ADAMS-REILLY, F.R.G.S. M.A.C.  Published under the Authority of the Alpine Club.  In Chromolithography on extra stout drawing-paper 2Sin. x 17in. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. or mounted on canvas in a folding case, 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>WESTWARD by RAIL; the New Route to the East.  By W. F. RAE.  With Map shewing the Lines of Rail between the Atlantic and the Pacific and Sections of the Railway.  Second Edition.  Post 8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HISTORY of DISCOVERY in our AUSTRALASIAN COLONIES, Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand, from the Earliest Date to the Present Day.  By WILLIAM HOWITT.  2 vols. 8vo. with 3 Maps, 20 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ZIGZAGGING AMONGST DOLOMITES.  By the Author of `How we Spent the Summer, or a Voyage en Zigzag in Switzerland and Tyrol.'  With upwards of 300 Illustrations by the Author.  Oblong 4to. price 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The DOLOMITE MOUNTAINS; Excursions through Tyrol, Carinthia, Carniola, and Friuli, 1861-1863.  By J. GILBERT and G. C. CHURCHILL, F.R.G.S.  With numerous Illustrations.  Square crown 8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>GUIDE to the PYRENEES, for the use of Mountaineers.  By CHARLES PACKE. 2nd Edition, with Map and Illustrations.  Cr. 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The ALPINE GUIDE.  By JOHN BALL, M.R.I.A. late President of the Alpine Club.  Thoroughly Revised Editions, in Three Volumes, post 8vo.  with Maps and other Illustrations:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>GUIDE to the WESTERN ALPS, including Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, Zermatt, &amp;c.  Price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>GUIDE to the CENTRAL ALPS, including all the Oberland District. Price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:.</P><P>GUIDE to the EASTERN ALPS, price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Introduction on Alpine Travelling in General, and on the Geology of the Alps, price 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  Each of the Three Volumes or Parts of the <HI REND="italics">Alpine Guide</HI>
098.sgm: may be had with this INTRODUCTION prefixed, price 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>VISITS to REMARKABLE PLACES: Old Halls, Battle-Fields, and Stones Illustrative of Striking Passages in English History and Poetry.  By WILLIAM HOWITT.  2 vols. square crown 8vo. with Woodcuts, 25 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The RURAL LIFE of ENGLAND.  By the same Author.  With Woodcuts by Bewick and Williams.  Medium 8vo. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Works of Fiction</HI>
098.sgm:<P>POPULAR ROMANCES of the MIDDLE AGES.  By GEORGE W. COX, M.A. Author of `The Mythology of the Aryan Nations' &amp;c. and EUSTACE HINTON JONES.  Crown 8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HARTLAND FOREST; a Legend of North Devon.  By Mrs. BRAY, Author of `The White Hoods,' `Life of Stothard,' &amp;c.  Post 8vo. with Frontispiece, price 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>NOVELS and TALES.  By the Right Hon. B. DISRAELI, M.P. Cabinet Edition, complete in Ten Volumes, crown 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LOTHAIR, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CONINGSBY, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SYBIL, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>TANCRED, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>VENETIA, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HENRIETTA TEMPLE, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CONTARINI FLEMING, &amp;c. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ALROY, IXION, &amp;c. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
098.sgm: YOUNG DUKE, &amp;c. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>VIVIAN GREY, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The MODERN NOVELIST'S LIBRARY.  Each Work, in crown 8vo. complete in a Single Volume:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>MELVILLE'S GLADIATORS, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. boards; 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>--GOOD FOR NOTHING, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:, boards; 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>--HOLMBY HOUSE, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. boards; 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>--INTERPRETER, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. boards; 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>--KATE COVENTRY, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. boards; 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>--QUEEN'S MARIES, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. boards; 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>TROLLOPE'S WARDEN, 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:. boards; 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>--BARCHESTER TOWERS, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. boards; 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BRAMLEY-MOORE'S SIX SISTERS <HI REND="italics">of the</HI>
098.sgm: VALLEYS, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. boards; 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>IERNE; a Tale.  By W. STEUART TRENCH, Author of `Realities of Irish Life.'  Second Edition.  2 vols. post 8vo. price 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HOME at HEATHERBRAE; a Tale.  By the Author of `Everley.'  Fcp. 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CABINET EDITION of STORIES and TALES by MISS SEWELL:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>AMY HERBERT, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>GERTRUDE, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
098.sgm: EARL'S DAUGHTER. 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>EXPERIENCE <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
098.sgm: LIFE, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CLEVE HALL, 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>IVORS, 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>KATHARINE ASHTON, 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MARGARET PERCIVAL, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LANETON PARSONAGE, 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>URSULA, 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>STORIES and TALES.  By E. M. SEWELL.  Comprising:--Amy Herbert; Gertrude; The Earl's Daughter; The Experience of Life; Cleve Hall; Ivors; Katharine Ashton; Margaret Percival; Janeton Parsonage; <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
098.sgm: Ursula.  The Ten Works, complete in Eight Volumes, crown 8vo. bound in leather, and contained in a Box. price 42 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A Glimpse of the World.  By the Author of `Amy Herbert.' Fcp. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The Journal of a Home Life.  By the same Author.  Post 8vo. 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>After Life; a Sequel to `The Journal of a Home Life.'  Price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>UNCLE PETER'S FAIRY TALE for the NINETEENTH CENTURY.  Edited by E. M. SEWELL, Author of `Amy Herbert,' &amp;c.  Fcp. 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>THE GIANT; A Witch's Story for English Boys.  By the same Author and Editor.  Fcp. 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>WONDERFUL STORIES from NORWAY, SWEDEN, and ICELAND.  Adapted and arranged by JULIA GODDARD.  With an Introductory Essay by the Rev. G. W. Cox, M.A. and Six Woodcuts.  Square post 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A VISIT to MY DISCONTENTED COUSIN.  Reprinted, with some Additions, from <HI REND="italics">Fraser's Magazine</HI>
098.sgm:.  Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BECKER'S GALLUS; or, Roman Scenes of the Time of Augustus: with Notes and Excursuses.  New Edition.  Post 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BECKER'S CHARICLES; a Tale illustraive of Private Life among the Ancient Greeks: with Notes and Excursuses.  New Edition.  Post 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>CABINET EDITION of NOVELS and TALES by G. J. WHYTE</P>
098.sgm:<P>MELVILLE:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>DIGBY GRAND, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>KATE COVENTRY, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>GENERAL BOUNCE, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HOLMBY HOUSE, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
098.sgm: QUEEN'S MARIES, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
098.sgm: INTERPRETER, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>GOOD FOR NOTHING, price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>TALES of ANCIENT GREECE.  By GEORGE W. COX, M.A. late Scholar of Trin. Coll. Oxon.  Crown 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A MANUAL of MYTHOLOGY, in the form of Question and Answer.  By the same Author.  Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>OUR CHILDREN'S STORY, by one of their Gossips.  By the Author of `Voyage en Zigzag,' `Pictures in Tyrol,' &amp;c.  Small 4to. with Sixty Illustrations by the Author, price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Poetry</HI>
098.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">The Drama</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A VISION of CREATION, a POEM; with an Introduction, Geological and Critical.  By CUTHBERT COLLINGWOOD, M.A. and B.M. Oxon. F.L.S. &amp;c. Author of `Rambles of a Naturalist on the Shores and Waters of the China Seas,' &amp;c. Crown 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The STORY of GAUTAMA BUDDHA and his CREED; an Epic.  By RICHARD PHILLIPS.  Squara fcp. 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BALLADS and LYRICS of OLD FRANCE; with other Poems.  By A. LANG, Fellow of Merton College, Oxford.  Square fcp. 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SONGS of the SIERRAS.  By JOAQUIN MILLER.  New Edition, revised by the Author.  Fcp. 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>THOMAS MOORE'S POETICAL WORKS, with the Author's last Copyright Additions:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>SHAMROCK EDITION, crown 8vo. price 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PEOPLE'S EDITION, square crown 8vo. with Illustrations, price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LIBRARY EDITION, medium 8vo. Portrait and Vignette, 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MOORE'S IRISH MELODIES, Maclise's Edition, with 161 Steel Plates from Original Drawings.  Super-royal 8vo. 31 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Miniature Edition of Moore's Irish Melodies with Maclise's Designs (as above) reduced in Lithography. Imp. 16mo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MOORE'S LALLA ROOKH.  Tenniel's Edition, with 68 Wood Engravings from original Drawings and other Illustrations.  Fcp. 4to. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SOUTHEY'S POETICAL WORKS, with the Author's last Corrections and copyright Additions.  Library Edition, in 1 vol. medium 8vo. with Portrait and Vignette, 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>LAYS of ANCIENT ROME; with <HI REND="italics">Ivry</HI>
098.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Armada</HI>
098.sgm:.  By the Right Hon. LORD MACAULAY.  16mo. 4 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Lord Macaulay's Lays of Ancient Rome.  With 90 Illustrations on Wood, from the Antique, from Drawings by G. SCHARF.  Fcp. 4to. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>Miniature Edition of Lord Macaulay's Lays of Ancient Rome, with the Illustrations (as above) reduced in Lithography. Imp. 16mo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>GOLDSMITH'S POETICAL WORKS, with Wood Engravings from Designs by Members of the ETCHING CLUB.  Imperial 16mo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>POEMS OF BYGONE YEARS.  Edited by the Author of `Amy Herbert' &amp;c. Fcp. 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The &AElig;NEID of VIRGIL Translated into English Verse.  By JOHN CONNINGTON, M.A.  New Edition.  Crown 8vo. 9 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HORATII OPERA.  Library Edition, with Marginal References and English Notes.  Edited by the Rev. J. E. YONGE.  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BOWDLER'S FAMILY SHAKSPEARE, cheaper Genuine Editions.  Medium 8vo. large type, with 36 WOODCUTS, price 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  Cabinet Edition, with the same ILLUSTRATIONS, 6 vols. fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>POEMS.  By JEAN INGELOW.  Fifteenth Edition.  Fcp. 8vo. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>POEMS by Jean Ingelow.  With nearly 100 Illustrations by Eminent Artists, engraved on Wood by the Brothers DALZIEL.  Fcp. 4to. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A STORY of DOOM, and other Poems.  By JEAN INGELOW.  Third Edition.  Fcp. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>JOHN JERNINGHAM'S JOURNAL.  Fcp. 8vo. price 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The MAD WAR PLANET, and other POEMS.  By WILLIAM HOWITT, Author of `Visits to Remarkable Places' &amp;c.  Fcp. 8vo. price 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>EUCHARIS; a Poem.  By F. REGINALD STATHAM (Francis Reynolds), Author of `Alice Rushton, and other Poems' and `Glaphyra, and other Poems.'  Fcp. 8vo. price 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>WORKS by EDWARD YARDLEY:--</P>
098.sgm:<P>FANTASTIC STORIES.  Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MELUSINE <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
098.sgm: OTHER POEMS.  Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HORACE'S ODES, <HI REND="italics">translated into</HI>
098.sgm: English Verse.  Crown 8vo. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>SUPPLEMENTARY STORIES <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
098.sgm: POEMS.  Fcp. 3 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Rural Sports</HI>
098.sgm:<P>ENCYCLOP&AElig;DIA of RURAL SPORTS; a complete Account, Historical, Practical, and Descriptive, of Hunting, Shooting, Fishing, Racing, and all other Rural and Athletic Sports and Pastimes.  By D. P. BLAINE.  With above 600 Woodcuts (20 from Designs by JOHN LEECH).  8vo. 21 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The DEAD SHOT, or Sportsman's Complete Guide; a Treatise on the Use of the Gun, Dog-breaking, Pigeon-shooting, &amp;c.  By MARKSMAN.  Revised Edition.  Fcp. 8vo. with Plates, 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The FLY-FISHER'S ENTOMOLOGY.  By ALFRED RONALDS.  With coloured Representations of the Natural and Artificial Insect.  Sixth Edition; with 20 coloured Plates.  8vo. 14 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>A BOOK on ANGLING; a complete Treatise on the Art of Angling in every branch.  By FRANCIS FRANCIS.  New Edition, with Portrait and 15 other Plates, plain and coloured.  Post 8vo. 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The BOOK of the ROACH.  By GREVILLE FENNELL, of `The Field.'  Fcp. 8vo. price 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>WILCOCKS'S SEA-FISHERMAN; comprising the Chief Methods of Hook and Line Fishing in the British and other Seas, a Glance at Nets, and Remarks on Boats and Boating.  Second Edition, enlarged; with 80 Woodcuts.  Post 8vo. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HORSES and STABLES.  By Colonel F. FITZWYGRAM, XV. the King's Hussars.  With Twenty-four Plates of Illustrations, containing very numerous Figures engraved on Wood.  8vo. 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HORSE'S FOOT, and HOW to KEEP IT SOUND.  By W. MILES, Esq.  Ninth Edition, with Illustrations.  Imperial 8vo. 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A PLAIN TREATISE on HORSE-SHOEING.  By the same Author.  Sixth Edition.  Post 8vo. with Illustrations, 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>STABLES and STABLE-FITTINGS.  By the same.  Imp. 8vo. with 13 Plates, 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>REMARKS on HORSES' TEETH, addressed to Purchasers.  By the same.  Post 8vo. 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A TREATISE on HORSE-SHOEING and LAMENESS.  By JOSEPH GAMGEE, Veterinary Surgeon, formerly Lecturer on the Principles and Practice of Farriery in the New Veterinary College, Edinburgh.  8vo. with 55 Woodcuts, price 15 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>BLAINE'S VETERINARY ART; a Treatise on the Anatomy, Physiology, and Curative Treatment of the Diseases of the Horse, Neat Cattle and Sheep.  Seventh Edition, revised and enlarged by C. STEEL, M.R.C.V.S.L. 8vo. with Plates and Woodcuts, 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The HORSE: with a Treatise on Draught.  By WILLIAM YOUATT.  New Edition, revised and enlarged.  8vo. with numerous Woodcuts, 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The DOG.  By the same Author.  8vo. with numerous Woodcuts, 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The DOG in HEALTH and DISEASE.  By STONEHENGE.  With 70 Wood Engravings.  Square crown 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The GREYHOUND.  By STONEHENGE.  Revised Edition, with 24 Portraits of Greyhounds.  Square crown 8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The OX; his Diseases and their Treatment: with an Essay on Parturition in the Cow.  By J. R. DOBSON.  Crown 8vo. with Illustrations, 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Works of Utility</HI>
098.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">General Information</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The THEORY and PRACTICE of BANKING.  By H. D. MACLEOD, M.A. Barrister-at-Law.  Second Edition, entirely remodelled.  2 vols. 8vo. 30 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P>A DICTIONARY, Practical, Theoretical, and Historical, of Commerce and Commercial Navigation.  By J. R. M'CULLOCH.  New and thoroughly revised Edition.  8vo. price 63 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. cloth, or 70 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The LAW of NATIONS Considered as Independent Political Communities.  By Sir TRAVERS TWISS, D.C.L.  2 vols. 8vo. 30 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.; or separately.  PART I.  <HI REND="italics">Peace</HI>
098.sgm:, 12 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:.  PART II.  <HI REND="italics">War</HI>
098.sgm:, 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The CABINET LAWYER; a Popular Digest of the Laws of England.  Civil, Criminal, and Constitutional: intended for Practical Use and General Information.  Twenty-third Edition.  Fcp. 8vo. price 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>PEWTNER'S COMPREHENSIVE SPECIFIER; a Guide to the Practical Specification of every kind of Building-Artificers' Work; with Forms of Building Conditions and Agreements, an Appendix, Foot-Notes, and a copious Index.  Edited by W. YOUNG, Architect.  Crown 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>COLLIERIES and COLLIERS; a Handbook of the Law and Leading Cases relating thereto.  By J. C. FOWLER, of the Inner Temple, Barrister.  Second Edition.  Fcp. 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>The MATERNAL MANAGEMENT of CHILDREN in HEALTH and Disease.  By THOMAS BULL, M.D.  Fcp. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HINTS to MOTHERS on the MANAGEMENT of their HEALTH during the Period of Pregnancy and in the Lying-in Room.  By the late THOMAS BULL, M.D.  Fcp. 5 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>HOW to NURSE SICK CHILDREN; containing Directions which may be found of service to all who have charge of the Young.  By CHARLES WEST, M.D.  Second Edition.  Fcp. 8vo. 1 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>NOTES on LYING-IN INSTITUTIONS; with a Proposal for Organising an Institution for Training Midwives and Midwifery Nurses.  By FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE.  With 5 Plans.  Square crown 8vo. 7 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>NOTES on HOSPITALS.  By FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE.  Third Edition, enlarged; with 13 Plans.  Post 4to. 18 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>CHESS OPENINGS.  By F. W. LONGMAN, Balliol College, Oxford.  Fcp. 8vo. 2 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>A PRACTICAL TREATISE on BREWING; with Formul&aelig; for Public Brewers, and Instructions for Private Families.  By W. BLACK.  8vo. 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:. 6 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MODERN COOKERY for PRIVATE FAMILIES, reduced to a System of Easy Practice in a Series of carefully-tested Receipts.  By ELIZA ACTON.  Newly revised and enlarged Edition; with 8 Plates of Figures and 150 Woodcuts.  Fcp. 6 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>WILLICH'S POPULAR TABLES, for ascertaining, according to the Carlisle Table of Mortality, the value of Lifehold, Leasehold, and Church Property, Renewal Fines, Reversions, &amp;c.  Seventh Edition, edited by MONTAGUE MARRIOTT, Barrister-at-Law.  Post 8vo. price 10 <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
098.sgm:<P>MAUNDER'S TREASURY of KNOWLEDGE and LIBRARY of Reference: comprising an English Dictionary and Grammar, Universal Gazetteer, Classical Dictionary, Chronology, Law Dictionary, a Synopsis of the Peerage, useful Tables, &amp;c.  Revised Edition.  Fcp. 8vo. price 6 <HI REND="italics">s .</HI>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX.</HEAD>
098.sgm:<P>ACTON'S Modern Cookery<HSEP>28<LB>ALLEN'S Four Discourses of Chrysostom<HSEP>22<LB>ALLIES on Formation of Christendom<HSEP>21<LB>Alpine Guide (The)<HSEP>23<LB>ARNOLD'S Manual of English Literature<HSEP>7<LB>ARNOTT'S Elements of Physics<HSEP>11<LB>Authority and Conscience<HSEP>19<LB>Autumn Holidays of a Country Parson<HSEP>9<LB>AYRE'S Treasury of Bible Knowledge<HSEP>20<LB>BACON'S Essays, by WHATELY<HSEP>6<LB>--Life and Letters, by SPEDDING<HSEP>6<LB>--Works, edited by SPEDDING<HSEP>6<LB>BAIN'S Logic, Deductive and Inductive<HSEP>10<LB>--Mental and Moral Science<HSEP>10<LB>--on the Senses and Intellect<HSEP>10<LB>BALL'S Alpine Guide<HSEP>23<LB>BAYLDON'S Rents and Tillages<HSEP>18<LB>Beaten Tracks<HSEP>22<LB>BECKER'S Charicles <LB><HI REND="italics">and</HI>
098.sgm: Gallus<HSEP>24<LB>BENFEY'S Sanskrit Dictionary<HSEP>8<LB>BERNARD on British Neutrality<HSEP>1<LB>BISSET on Historical Truth<HSEP>3<LB>BLACK'S Treatise on Brewing<HSEP>28<LB>BLACKLEY'S German-English Dictionary<HSEP>8<LB>BLAINE'S Rural Sports<HSEP>26<LB>--Veterinary Art<HSEP>27<LB>BLOXAM'S Metals<HSEP>11<LB>BOOTH'S Saint-Simon<HSEP>3<LB>BOULTBEE on 39 Articles<HSEP>19<LB>BOURNE on Screw Propeller<HSEP>18<LB>BOURNE'S Catechism of the Steam Engine<HSEP>18<LB>--Handbook of Steam Engine<HSEP>18<LB>--Improvements in the Steam Engine<HSEP>18<LB>--Treatise on the Steam Engine<HSEP>18<LB>--Examples of Modern Engines<HSEP>18<LB>BOWDLER'S Family SHAKSPEARE<HSEP>26<LB>BOYD'S Reminiscences<HSEP>4<LB>BRAMLEY-MOORE'S Six Sisters of the Valleys<HSEP>24<LB>BRANDE'S Dictionary of Science, Literature, and Art<HSEP>14<LB>BRAY'S Manual of Anthropology<HSEP>10<LB>--Philosophy of Necessity<HSEP>10<LB>--on Force<HSEP>10<LB>--(Mrs.) Hartland Forest<HSEP>23<LB>BROWNE'S Exposition of the 39 Articles<HSEP>19<LB>BRUNEL'S Life of BRUNEL<HSEP>4<LB>BUCKLE'S History of Civilization<HSEP>4<LB>BULL'S Hints to Mothers<HSEP>28<LB>--Maternal Management of Children<HSEP>28<LB>BUNSEN'S God in History<HSEP>3<LB>--Prayers<HSEP>19<LB>BURKE'S Vicissitudes of Families<HSEP>5<LB>BURTON'S Christian Church<HSEP>4<LB>Cabinet Lawyer<HSEP>28<LB>CAMPBELL'S Norway<HSEP>22<LB>CARNOTA'S Memoirs of Pombal<HSEP>4<LB>CATES'S Biographical Dictionary<HSEP>5<LB>--and WOODWARD'S Encyclop&aelig;dia<HSEP>4<LB>CATS' and FARLIE'S Moral Emblems<HSEP>16<LB>Changed Aspects of Unchanged Truths<HSEP>9<LB>CHESNEY'S Indian Polity<HSEP>3<LB>--Waterloo Campaign<HSEP>2<LB>Chorale Book for England<HSEP>16<LB>Christ the Consoler<HSEP>19<LB>CLOUGH'S Lives from Plutarch<HSEP>2<LB>COLENSO (Bishop) on Pentateuch<HSEP>21<LB>COLLINGWOOD'S Vision of Creation<HSEP>25<LB>Commonplace Philosopher<HSEP>8<LB>CONINGTON'S Translation of the <LB><HI REND="italics">[aAEneid]</HI>
098.sgm: 26<LB>CONTANSEAU'S French-English Dictionaries<HSEP>8<LB>CONYBEARE and HOWSON'S St. Paul<HSEP>20<LB>COTTON'S (Bishop) Life<HSEP>5<LB>COOPER'S Surgical Dictionary<HSEP>15<LB>COPLAND'S Dictionary of Practical Medicine<HSEP>15<LB>Counsel and Comfort from a City Pulpit<HSEP>9<LB>COX'S Aryan Mythology<HSEP>3<LB>--Manual of Mythology<HSEP>25<LB>--Tale of the Great Persian War<HSEP>2<LB>--Tales of Ancient Greece<HSEP>25<LB>--and JONES'S Popular Romances<HSEP>23<LB>CRESY'S Encyclop&aelig;dia of Civil Engineering<HSEP>17<LB>Critical Essays of a Country Parson<HSEP>9<LB>CROOKES on Beet-Root Sugar<HSEP>16<LB>--'S Chemical Analysis<HSEP>14<LB>CULLEY'S Handbook of Telegraphy<HSEP>17<LB>CUSACK'S History of Ireland<HSEP>3<LB>D'AUBIGNE'S History of the Reformation in the time of CALVIN<HSEP>2<LB>DAVIDSON'S Introduction to New Testament<HSEP>20<LB>Dead Shot (The), by MARKSMAN<HSEP>26<LB>DE LA RIVE'S Treatise on Electricity<HSEP>12<LB>DENISON'S Vice-Regal Life<HSEP>1<LB>DISRAELI'S Lord George Bentinck<HSEP>4<LB>--Novels and Tales<HSEP>24<LB>DOBELL'S Medical Reports<HSEP>15<LB>DOBSON on the Ox<HSEP>27<LB>DOVE on Storms<HSEP>11<LB>DOYLE'S Fairyland<HSEP>16<LB>DREW'S Reasons of Faith<HSEP>19<LB>DYER'S City of Rome<HSEP>[?]<LB>EASTLAKE'S Hints on Household Taste<HSEP>17<LB>--Gothic Revival<HSEP>17<LB>Elements of Botany<HSEP>13<LB>ELLICOTT on the Revision of the English New Testament<HSEP>19<LB>--Commentary on Ephesians<HSEP>20<LB>--Commentary on Galatians<HSEP>20<LB>--Pastoral Epist.<HSEP>20<LB>--Phillipians, &amp;c.<HSEP>20<LB>--Thessalonians<HSEP>20<LB>--Lectures on the Life of Christ<HSEP>20</P>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
098.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
098.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Spottiswoode &amp; Co., Printers, New-street Square, London</HI>
099.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94">
099.sgm:<FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-099</TITLE>
099.sgm:<TITLE>Letters from the Pacific slope; or First impressions.  By Harvey Rice: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
099.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
099.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
099.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
099.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
099.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
099.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
099.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>05-30358</LCCN>
099.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
099.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>69693</COPYRIGHT>
099.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>LETTERS</P>
099.sgm:<P>FROM THE</P>
099.sgm:<P>PACIFIC SLOPE;</P>
099.sgm:<P>OR</P>
099.sgm:<P>FIRST IMPRESSIONS.</P>
099.sgm:<P>BY</P>
099.sgm:<P>HARVEY RICE.</P>
099.sgm:<P>NEW YORK:</P>
099.sgm:<P>D. APPLETON &amp; COMPANY,</P>
099.sgm:<P>90, 92 &amp; 94 GRAND STREET.</P>
099.sgm:<P>1870.</P>
099.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by HARVEY RICE,</P>
099.sgm:<P>In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Northern District of Ohio.</P>
099.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>III</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><P>CONTENTS.<LB>LETTER I.<LB><HSEP>PAGE.<LB>From Lake Erie to the Rocky Mountains<HSEP>5<LB>LETTER II.<LB>From the Rocky Mountains to Salt Lake Valley<HSEP>12<LB>LETTER III.<LB>Salt Lake--The City--Polygamy<HSEP>20<LB>LETTER IV.<LB>The Tabernacle--Worship--Proselytes<HSEP>27<LB>LETTER V.<LB>Reno--Washoe--Carson City<HSEP>36<LB>LETTER VI.<LB>Society in Carson--Visit to Lake Tahoe<HSEP>43<LB>LETTER VII.<LB>Stage Ride--Lake Donner--Sacramento<HSEP>50<LB>LETTER VIII.<LB>From Sacramento to San Francisco--The City<HSEP>59<LB>LETTER IX.<LB>Sand-Hills--Windmills--Chinese--Climate<HSEP>67 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>IV</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:LETTER X.<LB>Churches--Nationalities--Fruits--Cliff House<HSEP>77<LB>LETTER XI.<LB>A Drive--Oakland--Alameda--Earthquake<HSEP>85<LB>LETTER XII.<LB>Sea Voyage to Los Angeles--Ranch Life<HSEP>93<LB>LETTER XIII.<LB>Anaheim--Its Vineyards--San Diego<HSEP>102<LB>LETTER XIV.<LB>Suspicious Passenger--Los Angeles--San Bernardino<HSEP>110<LB>LETTER XV.<LB>Return Voyage--Earthquake Theory--Asiatics<HSEP>119<LB>LETTER XVI.<LB>Yosemite--Big Trees--Geysers--Nature<HSEP>127</P>
099.sgm:<BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER I.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>SHERMAN, September 23d, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The time has been when a journey overland to California partook of the marvelous.  But now the trip has lost its former import, and amounts to little more than a pleasure excursion.  And yet it is really a marvel, that we can now traverse a vast continent in seven or eight days, instead of consuming seven or eight months, as was done by the early emigrants.  In fact, the only difficulty to be overcome, now, is simply--to start.  We started--myself and wife--in September, 1869; the year made memorable by the completion of the great trans-continental railway.</P>
099.sgm:<P>In what I may have to say, you will probably recognize but little that is new; for I am well aware that this is a reading age, and that almost everybody is more or less familiar with the leading characteristics of the Pacific Slope.  Yet it is possible my impressions of the golden land may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>From the Southern Shore of Lake Erie to Council Bluffs, the general aspect of the country is somewhat monotonous, being for the most part a rich alluvial plain of vast extent, enlivened by cultivated fields and small farm-houses, and begemmed here and there with infant villages and pretentious young cities.  The railroad bridge which spans the Mississippi and connects Rock Island with Davenport, is a splendid structure, about two miles long.</P>
099.sgm:<P>On arriving at Council Bluffs, formerly the limit of western civilization, we found ourselves ushered into a new region, seeming not only strange, but peculiar in its geological formation.  The bluffs consist of a collection of conical sand-hills, barren in appearance, yet graceful in outline.  They look like a platoon of grenadiers drawn up in military attitude to protect from invasion the rich valleys of the Missouri.  We passed them unchallenged.  The town derives its name from the fact that the explorers, Lewis and Clarke, in 1804, held a council here with the Indians.  The place has now become a city, containing about twelve thousand inhabitants.  Her citizens, it is said, regard Omaha, which is situated on the western bank of the river, as an intrusive rival, and often speak of her, ironically, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>Yet Omaha is equally plucky, and entertains no fears of being eclipsed, though born as late as 1854.  She has a population of nearly twenty thousand.  When the railroad bridge across the Missouri is completed, she will keep her foot in the stirrup, and continue to advance with a still higher degree of self-assurance.  The distance between the two cities is four miles.  The river is about a mile wide, turbid and treacherous.  We were transferred on a steam ferry boat, keeping our seats in the omnibus the meantime; and were deposited like so much freight, unceremoniously, at the grand depot of the Pacific road in Omaha.  Here we found the train, consisting of eight passenger cars, ready and waiting with steam up to receive us.  In "the twinkling of an eye" our party was thrust on board, bag and baggage, when the whistle gave the signal, and the impatient steam-horse snuffed the air with a spasmodic puff, and then took to his heels, headed for the Rocky Mountains.  In leaving Omaha, we left the old "Far West" behind us, which, by the people on the Pacific coast, is now called the "Far East."  In the progress of the age the Far West has been obliterated, and is now no where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>While in the Platte Valley, we were suddenly overtaken by a terrific thunder storm, attended with a violent wind and rain.  The storm occurred in the early part of the evening, and continued for an hour or more.  It seemed as if the artillery of Heaven had been brought into conflict, firing by regiments in every direction.  We could see the electric fluid roll like cannon balls down the sky and over the vast plains.  The scene was as sublime as it was terrific, and awed every passenger into silence.  But in the morning, after the storm had passed, all nature seemed regenerated, and looked as beautiful as a young bride at her marriage festival.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Though you may imagine that these plains must appear monotonous and unattractive, yet in proceeding westward you see many things that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>As we approached what is called the Rocky Mountain range, we kept a sharp lookout for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>The town of Sherman, at present, but a station, is located on the very apex of the Rocky Mountains, the backbone of a continent, five hundred and fifty miles west of Omaha.  The atmosphere is so clear that you can see Pike's Peak looming up in the south, at a distance of one hundred and sixty-five miles.  The town is indebted to General Sherman for its name, who is the tallest, and I might say, the bravest and most gallant general that held a commission in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER II.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>UINTAH, September 25th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>It was at Sherman that we commenced our descent down the Pacific Slope.  From that point which is the continental watershed, the waters divide and flow in opposite directions, west to the Pacific, and east to the Atlantic ocean.  The descent is like the ascent, so gradual that you would scarcely perceive it.  The Black Hills are to be seen in the distance, which take their name from the fact that they are clad with pines, giving them a dark and gloomy appearance.  It is a wild region, the favorite domain of still wilder Indians, who, in addition to their pastimes of hunting and fishing, frequently attack and plunder emigrant trains and other parties of white men passing through the country.  Not long since a skirmish occurred near here between the Indians and a detachment of soldiers, who had been sent out from the Fort for the purpose of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>In this direction there is a plenty of wild game, antelope, elk, black tailed deer, bear, grouse, sage hens, with an abundance of fish in the lakes and rivulets.  In the summer it is a perfect paradise for sportsmen, and so healthful that a dyspeptic could not die if he would, unless he should resort to medicine.  Here Nature heals the sick and works miracles, and is too benevolent to charge a fee for it.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Lake Como, which lies near the road and in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>At Bitter Creek, you reach a locality which has been made famous in the annals of the early emigrants.  The water is so strongly impregnated with alkali, that neither man nor beast can drink it with safety.  The banks of the creek are marshy and dangerous of approach, with evidences of coal oil floating on the surface.  The whitened bones of horses and cattle and of man, that are still to be seen along this valley, sufficiently indicate the route pursued in former years by emigrants and freighters.  They often arrived here, overcome with thirst; drank from necessity and died.  After leaving the valley of this modern Merah, we soon glided into the valley of Green River.  Much of the way the bluffs are bold and precipitous.  Not far away, on the Sweetwater <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:River, gold mines have been discovered, which are said to be rich, and which are now worked with considerable success.  And now as we proceed, the hills and bluffs often approach within a few rods of the track, presenting a perpendicular front of naked wall, composed of sandstone, and laid up in range-work, like solid masonry.  These walls are in some instances hundreds of feet high, and look as if built in the days when there were "giants on the earth."  The Church Buttes are so called, because they resemble churches.  They are simply earth elevations, having a church-like outline, larger than hills, yet smaller than mountains, which have arisen, without regard to order, out of the surface of an extensive plain.  On first view they surprise the beholder and rivet his attention like a passing panorama of wonders.  The moss-agates, which are so prized when polished and wrought into jewels for the ear, breast, and fingers, abound here, and along the whole line of the road from Green River to Piedmont.  They are found lying loose on the top of the bluffs, and within the crevices of the rocks where the winds have blown away the sand.  They are probably the result of volcanic or electrical heat, and were originally formed in the sandstone rocks, where they still lie embedded in large numbers.  How this could have occurred and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Many of the stations take their names from some novel circumstance, or historical fact.  We passed one called "Lone Tree."  The tree that stands there is the only one to be seen in that region.  Bridger Station takes its name from one James Bridger, who was a famous hunter in these parts, some forty years ago.  Fort Bridger, not far from here, is still more famous as the military post or locality where the Mormons, led by Orson Pratt, on the 23d of November, 1857, in the night, and amid a driving snow storm, attacked and robbed the supply train on its way to the western army, commanded by General Johnson.  The train had encamped for the night, and consisted of one hundred and sixty wagons, and a party of two hundred and thirty persons.  The Mormons seized the supplies, and burned the wagons, and left the party to starve and die in the wilderness, a thousand miles away from the border settlements.  Only eight of the party survived the winter, and they did not reach home until the next June.  The Mormons feasted on the supplies in the meantime, while Johnson's army were put on short rations.  For this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The Wahsatch Mountains are not generally large, but form a range of irregular, broken hills and peaks with bald heads, and intervening gorges, deep, dark, and sometimes fearful.  It is here a desolate, silent, voiceless region of country, and like much of the country through which we have passed, produces little else than sage-brush and grease wood.  In passing along Echo canyon we plunged into the bowels of one of the mountains, running through a tunnel seven hundred and seventy feet, the longest on the Pacific Union Road, and emerging into a beautiful vale, as green, fresh, and flowery as Eden.  This vale is one of Nature's favorite retreats, a garden hidden away among these desolate mountains.  Here she has watered the soil with perennial rills, and cultivated its flowers with a woman's hand.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Near this, we passed what is called the Castle Rocks, which overhang the railway, and tower into the sky from five hundred to two thousand feet.  It is impossible to describe the beauties, wonders, and sublimities of the scene.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In proceeding along the river down Weber canyon, one becomes convinced that Nature graded the route with the expectation that a railway would be built here some day.  By the application of some tremendous force, perhaps with nitro-glycerine, she split open the mountain range for miles, leaving the side walls just wide enough apart to admit of a free and easy passage; and to make it plain, penciled the track with Weber River.  No human engineer could mistake the design, or accomplish such a work.  On the bank of the river stands a tree of much interest to travelers, the solitary pine, labeled "1000 miles from Omaha," and near it you pass the "devil's slide," a narrow path down an abrupt declivity with a fence twenty feet high on each side, constructed by Nature of huge flagging stone set edgewise in the ground.  The slide descends in a straight line, and is more than a thousand feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER III.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>SALT LAKE CITY, September 27th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The stage-route by which we came from Uintah to this "much married" city, winds along the base of the mountains which encircle this great valley, as if to guard it from the profane intrusion of the outside world.  The dark blue waters of Salt Lake slumbered calmly on our right, and occupy a central position in the valley.  It is about seventy-five miles long by ten wide.  In its centre there looms up a mountain island, which gleams like an emerald set in ebony.  Its outline is oval.  The extensive meadow-like plains that border on the Lake are rich and beautiful, and divided into ranches occupied for the most part by Mormons.  The margin of the Lake is encrusted with crystalized salt of excellent quality, which the people here generally use for domestic purposes, and which any one may shovel up and carry away by the wagon load, if he cares to do <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In passing around the spur of a mountain as we approached the city, we drove through the rapid current of a hot spring flowing from the mountain's base, and steaming with offensive gases, and so heated that you could not hold your hand in it.  Its volume is quite large, almost a rivulet, and its waters are said to be highly esteemed for their medicinal properties.  Springs of a like character abound still nearer the city, and even within its limits, where several bathing houses have been erected to which Brigham and his disciples often resort and undergo ablutions which, I doubt not, they much need; and yet I question whether the waters, though heated to a scald, could cleanse them from their moral leprosy.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Near the city, and along the roadside, are still to be seen the dilapidated walls of several old fortifications, black as tar, and originally built ten or twelve feet high, enclosing plats of ground broad enough to accommodate an army of ten thousand men.  The walls are one continuous solid mass, and appear to be constructed of cement made of gravel and asphaltum, impenetrable to musket balls.  The Mormons erected these walls in 1857, as we were told, for the purpose of defending the Holy City against the crusade of the Federal troops, then in command of Gen.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Very soon after passing the fortifications we entered the city proper, and took lodgings at a Mormon hotel.  Here we found excellent accommodations, and during our stay were treated with all the attention and politeness we could desire.  We observed nothing, while at the hotel, which induced us to believe that it differed in any respect from other first class hotels; and yet, as a matter of fact, our landlord rejoiced in the possession of five wives, if joy there can be in having five times too much of a good thing.  The first wife was, apparently, past middle age, wore a faded calico dress and a downcast look, and seemed unhappy.  The second appeared much younger and prettier, was clad in silks and jewels, and had the general superintendence of the servants and of the household.  The other three, it was said, kept house by themselves in different parts of the town, and took charge of their own children and family affairs; yet were, in fact, supported by the landlord, their common husband.  How many children he has by his five wives, we did not learn, but they are said to be numerous.  He is regarded as a man of wealth, and in his style of manners has the appearance of an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>On Sunday we attended church, and heard Brigham Young preach.  He had a full house, and appeared to be a man of much more polish and culture than I expected to see, from all I had heard said of him.  His language was select, and his style of oratory earnest, talkative and sincere.  He indulged in no expressions which could be regarded as inconsistent with good taste; yet when contradicted or irritated, it is said, he sometimes employs coarse and unqualified language.  He evidently feels and knows that he is the acknowledged dictator and Supreme Head of the Church in Mormondom.  It must be admitted that he is a shrewd tactician, decidedly foxy, and ever ready in adopting expedients.  If this were not so, he could never have achieved what he has.  If not a great genius, he is certainly no ordinary man.  This was my impression of him at first sight.  His discourse was not written, nor did he take a text, but proceeded at once to give utterance to his train of thought.  If I had not known who he was, I should not have questioned the orthodoxy of his discourse, until he alluded to the subject of polygamy.  In this allusion he pronounced it a divine institution, and then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In personal appearance, Brigham is a fine looking gentleman, tall and portly, easy and selfpossessed in manner, dresses elegantly, is about seventy years of age, yet appears much younger, and weighs at least two hundred.  He has more wives than pounds of flesh. If distributed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:among them, he wouldn't go round at a pound apiece.  He has wives celestial and wives terrestial.  Of the celestial there are several hundred; of the terrestial some forty or fifty.  The former are pious, confiding old ladies, who have lost their charms, and only claim the privilege of pinning their faith to his sleeve.  The latter are still possessed of considerable youth and beauty, and have the privilege of "building up Zion."  How many children Brigham really has, is not known, and it is doubtful if he knows; but they say he has somewhere from fifty to one hundred and fifty.  In providing for their education, he erected especially for them a large two-story school house, which has now become too small to accommodate them.  He has nineteen or twenty favorite wives, who occupy distinct dwellings in different parts of the city.  He visits them occasionally, and so far as they are unable to take care of themselves, he provides for them.  The salvation of every woman who marries Brigham or any of his church dignitaries, is considered absolutely certain.  Hence, their system of celestial marriages embraces old women as well as young, and often women who have been in their graves for years.  The nuptial ceremonies are performed in church.  In marrying a deceased woman, the bridegroom appears before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The priesthood go so far as to say that father and daughter, mother and son, may, without violating either natural or divine law, intermarry, if they choose.  Such is polygamy in its tendency and in its most revolting form.  Is there no remedy?  The time is rapidly approaching, I trust, when this corroding stain, this foul plague-spot on our national escutcheon, will be forever obliterated, and that too, without the hope of a resurrection.  And yet what can be done, or what will be done, remains to be seen.</P>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER IV.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>SALT LAKE CITY, September 28th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>In the afternoon, on Sunday, religious services were held in the great Mormon Tabernacle by the subordinate members of the priesthood.  Brigham does not often preach, and when he does, he prefers to preach in the Chapel which is much smaller than the tabernacle, and in which it is much easier for him to speak since he has worn his lungs "threadbare," as he expresses it, by the public speaking he has done in the last twenty-five years.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Both the chapel and tabernacle are enclosed in the same lot or square, of ten acres, by a close substantial fence or wall, fifteen feet high, and entered through massive prison-like gates.  The tabernacle is an immense structure, two hundred and fifty feet long by one hundred and fifty broad, and ninety-five feet high.  It is oval in its outline, roof and sides, and looks like a huge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:land turtle standing motionless in its tracks.  The roof rests on the side walls, and has no inside pillars to support it.  It is said to be the largest building ever erected in this country, without having interior columns.  It will seat ten thousand people.  At one end there is an elevated platform broad enough to accommodate the entire priesthood, which consists of Brigham as Divine Master, his three divine counselors, twelve apostles, and seventy elders.  On this platform there stands a magnificent organ, brilliantly gilded in front, which is seventy-five feet high, and thirty-five wide.  It was built by a Mormon.  Its tones are as heavy as the muttering thunders, and yet as sweet as the music of the spheres.  We were politely seated by the usher in a front seat, below, with the audience.  There are no galleries.  The house was well filled, probably not less than six or eight thousand people were in attendance.  The priesthood occupied the platform, and, judging from their numbers, I should suppose they were all there except Brigham, who seldom attends service in the afternoon.  The women occupied the central seats in the main body of the tabernacle, and the men encircled them round about like a hoop.  I never before saw such a sea of upturned, credulous faces, as I beheld in this assemblage.  There were twice as many women as men, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Brigham owes his success mainly to his missionaries.  He sends them by hundreds to almost every part of the civilized world.  The result is, that he obtains proselytes by the thousands, every year.  Five parties of immigrants were reported at the tabernacle last Sabbath, as being on their way, or as having arrived this year; each party numbering from three hundred to seven hundred persons.  In one of these parties seven different languages were spoken, indicating the various countries from which they came.  All this was reported as the fruit of a single year's missionary labor.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The Mormon church is rich, and transports its proselytes from Europe to Utah, at its own expense, and is afterwards reimbursed from their earnings in this country.  After they have paid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Salt Lake City contains about twenty thousand inhabitants.  It is laid out in one hundred and eighty square blocks of ten acres each, with intervening avenues of one hundred and thirty feet in width.  The blocks are then sub-divided into lots, larger or smaller, to suit the wants of the citizens, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:and are generally built up with wood or adobe dwellings, in which two or three families, sometimes more, belonging to one man, are often domiciled.  With some exceptions, each family occupies a distinct apartment, which is entered through a separate outside door.  You can generally tell, therefore, how many families occupy the same house by the number of its front doors.  The gardens are usually large, and filled with fruits, vegetables and flowers.  Peaches, pears, and apples, of the largest size and finest quality I ever saw, abound here.  Living streams of pure water, which descend from the neighboring snow-capped mountains, course along on either side of every avenue in the city, and are conducted in small rills through side-cuts into gardens and lawns to such extent as may be needed for the purpose of irrigation.  The town is located on a plain, which extends from the base of the circular mountains on one side to the banks of the river Jordan on the other, a distance of two miles or more.  This sacred river, as the Mormons esteem it, is ten or twelve rods wide, and fifteen miles long, connecting Lake Utah with Salt Lake.  In the holy waters of this modern Jordan the Mormon converts are baptised, and as they say, washed of their sins.  We visited the river, and picked up on its shore a black jasper, which we retain for exhibition to our friends, and as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>It is a singular fact that Salt Lake has no outlet, and though it receives into its basin several streams of fresh water, it grows none the less saline.  It is, in many respects, like the Dead Sea.  Neither fish, nor other living thing, can inhabit its waters.  It is a fountain, if not a pillar of salt, which, though not consecrated to Lot's wife, will forever remind mankind of Brigham's wives.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Beside Salt-Lake valley, there are many other beautiful valleys in Utah; though much smaller in extent, they are as rich and fertile as the great valley.  Nearly all of them, within a circuit of a hundred and fifty miles, are now occupied by Mormons and regularly visited by their Home Missionaries, who, in many instances, have wives and families of children in each valley with whom they stop when on the circuit.  These families are expected to take care of themselves; but if unaable to do so, they receive aid from the church revenues or tithes.  The entire Mormon population, at this time, is said to be nearly two hundred thousand, and is rapidly increasing.  The Mormons intend to control Utah as they ever have done, when it becomes a State.  The penniless dupes they import are told that Utah is "a land flowing with milk and honey," and encircled with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>And yet, in all this there may be a wise Providence that looks to higher, nobler and holier results.  Had it not been for the early, not to say unjust, persecution of the Mormons in the Eastern States, and their forced emigration to Utah in search of protection and a peaceful home, the grand Pacific Railway, in all probability, would not have been built for at least fifty years to come.  The Mormons were thus made the pioneers who took the lead and opened the gateways into a new world, where they will finally be compelled to abandon their "peculiar institution," and lose forever their identity in the flowing tide of western emigration.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Be this as it may, Salt Lake City will have a name, fame, and record, which time cannot obliterate.  It is a beautiful city, and the natural scenery which surrounds it, is not only beautiful, but grand and sublime.  The climate of the valley is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:mild and summer-like throughout the year, and the soil as rich and productive as the garden of Eden.  Nature has made the spot an earthly paradise.  Brigham Young founded the city.  It is and ever will be a Monument, which will commemorate his name.  Yet not satisfied with this, he has already laid the foundation of a mighty temple which, when completed, will exceed in cost and grandeur the temple of Solomon.  It is to be constructed of granite, with many spires and turrets, in accordance with divine instructions communicated, as he says, by an angel from Heaven, who appeared to him in a vision.  We saw the foundation.  It is built of immense blocks of hewn granite, procured from the mountains, eighteen miles distant, and cost a million of dollars, as we were informed by the architect.  The whole cost of the temple, when finished, is estimated at three millions.  Brigham is full of gigantic projects.  He evidently means to survive death.  He has done some good things.  He educates the youth of his city, and prohibits the sale, within its limits, of all intoxicating liquors; yet tolerates a theatre, for the sake of its revenues, and often attends it himself.  He maintains an efficient police force for the protection of the city and its citizens, and it is understood that he has secret agents, who execute the unrevealed decrees of the priesthood.  As Head <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER V.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>CARSON CITY, September 30th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>From Salt Lake City we returned by stage to the Pacific road, and proceeded on our way westward by rail.  For many miles we ran along the margin of the great Salt Lake valley through a region whitened with a crust of soda or alkali, which appeared to the eye as if there had been a recent fall of snow.  In many other parts of this country the soil is encrusted in a similar manner, and so deeply impregnated with this alkaline substance, as to destroy all vegetation.</P>
099.sgm:<P>On leaving the valley, we ascended Promontory Point, winding our way up by zigzag lines along the ledges of rock, which crop out and overlook the great Salt Lake basin.  The view is as grand as it is extensive.  We dined at the station on the summit.  The dining hall is constructed with rough boards outside, and lined inside with white muslin.  The dinner was excellent and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>After we left Promontory Point we frequently passed gangs of Chinamen at work, repairing and finishing up the road.  They are a strange looking set of chaps, and look as much alike as two peas.  They are much smaller in stature than Americans, have dark yellowish skins, smooth, round faces, black hair and black almond eyes; and as we passed them, they grinned and smiled in a manner that was truly comical.  They are a quiet, submissive and respectful people in their demeanor.  Some were dressed in Chinese costume, and others in half American style.  They lodge in very low cloth tents, three or four feet high, and in some instances, instead of tents, they burrow in earth-mounds which resemble kennels.  As laborers, they are faithful and efficient, working from sunrise till sunset, without regard to the ten hour system, and if they do not always mind their P's, they certainly do their <HI REND="italics">queues</HI>
099.sgm:.  When at work they wear their queues, which are about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>We had now entered upon the vast plain, through which flows the Humboldt river, with here and there a bald-headed mountain and low range of equally bald hills.  At this season of the year no green thing is seen, not even a tree, shrub, or blade of grass.  It is a barren desert, silent as it is vast, producing nothing but sage brush.  The soil is strongly impregnated with alkali.  The dust which arises from the plain as the cars pass, is anything but agreeable.  It parches the lips and skin, and irritates the throat and nasal linings to a degree that is often tormenting.</P>
099.sgm:<P>At most of the stations along this part of the route, we saw groups of Indians, men, women and children, standing idle and curious to see the train and its novelties, and begging for money, bread, meat, clothing, or anything else the passengers might please to give them.  Dressed partly in Indian costume, and partly in old cast-off American garments, they created quite a sensation among the passengers, who enjoyed hugely their comical appearance.  These Indians are remnant tribes, known as Shoshones, and Piutes, who are now regarded as quite harmless, but were once numerous and formidable; often at war with each other; and sometimes plundered and murdered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The Humboldt river is comparatively small, larger in the direction of its source than at its termination, owing to the absorption of its waters in the sand as it flows.  It is two hundred and fifty miles long, and empties into a lake of the same name.  Along its course there are some grand and sublime scenes--especially the pass between the Palisades, a twin range of perpendicular rocks, fifteen hundred feet high, and apparently split asunder by volcanic action.  In other places you will see granite rocks projecting from the faces of the round headed hills, resembling dragon's teeth, and reminding you that you are entering the dismal realms--if not the very jaws of destruction--yet this valley, in some seasons of the year, wears a cheerful aspect, as compared with the dry season, and affords excellent pasturage.  The old emigrant trail may still be traced through its entire extent.</P>
099.sgm:<P>On reaching Reno, which is located on the eastern slope of the Sierras, we again stopped off, and took the stage to Carson City, the capital of Nevada, distant thirty-three miles.  On the way we passed the famous "Steamboat Springs," near the road-side.  They derive their name from the fact <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Soon after passing the springs we entered Washoe, a small village in a deep valley, famous for its silver mines.  It has several quartz mills at work, day and night, and turns out a large amount of bullion.  It is located midway between Reno and Carson City.  Like Washoe, Carson is also located in a deep valley, known as Eagle Valley, and is surrounded by picturesque mountains, clad with pines.  The city is situated on the Carson river, which winds its way gracefully along the valley, and contains a population of four or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Nevada has exhibited her wisdom in making liberal provision for common schools, both by taxation and appropriation of public lands.  She is about to erect for herself a magnificent State House.  She has already built a Penitentiary, a very fine, substantial stone edifice, which is kept in excellent condition, and under a strict system of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER VI.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>CARSON CITY, October 4th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>There are many points of interest in and about Carson.  Not only the neighboring silver mines, but the graceful scenery of the winding valley, the mountains and their deep gorges interwoven with the lights and shadows cast by the reflected rays of the sun, the whispering pines, the mountain rills, the wild flowers that "waste their sweetness on the desert air," all combine to lend "enchantment to the view."</P>
099.sgm:<P>And what adds still greater interest to the fascinations of this charming little city, is the delightful society one may find here, especially among the "upper ten," a class of refined and cultivated people, who are just aristocratic enough, and yet democratic enough, to make themselves exceedingly pleasant and agreeable in all their social relations, and popular generally among their fellow citizens.  The ladies we met, while in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>From Carson we made an excursion, in company with our friends, to Lake Tahoe, which is embosomed in the summits of the mountains, fifteen miles from the city.  It is the most elevated lake on this continent, being six thousand feet above the level of the sea.  It is reached by a turnpike, which winds its way up the mountains by angular lines, commanding at every turn magnificent views, and which cost the company that built it a hundred and forty thousand dollars.  It is used, principally, for transporting pine lumber by teams from the mountain heights to the valley.  Most of the teams employed consist of six or eight pairs of mules or oxen, and each team draws two, and sometimes three wagons, attached by chains, and carries from thirty to sixty tons to the load.  In regions where there are no roads, they transport timber and fire-wood down the mountains <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Lake Tahoe is certainly a beautiful gem--the most beautiful that ever glittered in the crown of a mountain monarchy.  Its waters are as clear and pure as crystal.  It is said to be more than two thousand feet deep; and though it receives several streams, it has no outlet.  You can see fish and pebbles glimmering in its depths, as in a mirror.  It is quite a large lake, being thirty miles long and ten or twelve broad; nor was it made in vain.  San Francisco is agitating the question of monopolizing its waters for the use of its citizens, by conducting it in iron pipes to the city, a distance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:of a hundred and fifty miles, and at a cost estimated at twelve millions of dollars.  Its borders are wild and romantic.  It is surrounded by snow-capped mountains, which are reflected in the mirror of its waters.  Ragged rocks, looking like armed giants, stand out here and there along its margin, as if to guard the spot from intrusion.  Though located in a region of perpetual frost and snow, its waters never freeze; but why they should not, is a mystery.  In summer it is a place of popular resort.  The mountain air is pure, cool, and exhilirating.  No invalid can breathe it without feeling its invigorating influence.  Indeed its restorative influence is like the fabled elixir of life, it makes one, however old he may be, feel youthful, if not absolutely frolicsome.  There is a small steamboat that plies on the lake, for the benefit and pleasure of visitors, and on both sides of the lake there are several first-class hotels, which furnish excellent accommodations for summer guests and pleasure parties.  We stopped at the Glenbrook House, which commands a fine view of the lake and its scenery.  The lake abounds in silver trout, so called because they are dotted with silver stars; a fresh-caught one, weighing six pounds, supplied us with an excellent dinner.  The table was loaded with all kinds of luxuries, including <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Glenbrook gives name to the hotel, and runs dashing by its door, giggling and laughing like a mountain maid.  On the opposite side of the glen rises Shakespeare Rock, two hundred feet high, looking like an immense statue, chiseled by human hands.  It is in itself a marvel.  Its apex resembles very distinctly the head of Shakespeare.  The features of the face are like his in expression.  The brow is crowned with a wreath of golden moss; and the eyes, nose, mouth, and chin, fully delineated.  There he stands facing the lake, and gazing in mute rapture upon its placid waters.  No artist could improve this portraiture of genius, which has been thus lithographed by the hand of Nature, and placed on exhibition in this lofty granite hall of her own Mountain Home.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Not far from the Shakespeare statue appears Cathedral Rock, which is so named from its resemblance to a Roman church.  It looks so much like a magnificent church, that you imagine you can see the worshipers inside, through the gothic windows, engaged in their devotions.  About three miles from Glenbrook there is a wonderful cave in a rock, which presents a bold, perpendicular front, overlooking the lake and rising to a height of four hundred and eighty feet.  The cave opens <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>There are many other interesting spots along the borders and in the vicinity of Lake Tahoe, which every excursionist should visit, who enjoys communion with Nature and admires her wonderful works.  A few weeks spent here in summer, is worth more than a year squandered in Europe, or at a fashionable watering place in the Eastern States, so far as regards pleasure, or the attainment of health.</P>
099.sgm:<P>After enjoying the day here in the most delightful manner with our friends in sight-seeing, we returned to Carson in the evening by moonlight.  We had a rapid and exciting ride down the mountains.  The commingled lights and shadows that fell on our way, and on the mountain sides, and in the deep gorges, reminded us of fairy land, and produced in our minds visions of all that is magical and beautiful, not to say fearful, as we were whirled along the edges of precipitous cliffs and abrupt descents, which terminated in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER VII.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>SACRAMENTO, October 6th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Yesterday we took leave of our friends and the many pleasant acquaintances we had made at Carson City, and returned by stage to Reno, in time to take the night train going west.  We had an exciting ride.  The stage team consisted of six horses, fat, sleek and fast.  The famous Hank Monk held the ribbons--the same chap who drove Horace Greeley over the mountain road to Placerville, a few years ago, in time to lecture.  On entering the coach, I alluded to the fact, and requested a specimen of his skill; but remarked that I was a good democrat and didn't think I deserved, on the score of political sins, so hard a <HI REND="italics">jolting</HI>
099.sgm: as he gave Greeley.  But we had no sooner started than the speed began to increase, until the jolts became so intolerable that I implored moderation.  "Hank" replied to me as he did to Horace, "Keep your seat, sir."  This I tried to do, but the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Reno is an important railroad station, extemporized of canvas and rough boards, contains six or seven hundred inhabitants, and takes its name from Gen. Reno, who was killed in battle at South Mountain.  It is built without much regard to order; yet is rapidly advancing in wealth and population, and promises to become the leading city of the mountains.  It is located within a rich and extensive mining district, and only twenty miles from Virginia City.  Almost every mushroom town, though not much but a railroad station, is dignified with the name of a city in this region of the country.  Truckee is the great lumber mart of the mountains, and the largest city on the Central.  It has a population of nearly five thousand.  Not far from here you pass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In 1846, late in the fall, a party of emigrants, who had crossed the plains, arrived at this lake and camped for the night on its borders.  They brought with them horses, wagons, and a few head of horned cattle, but their provisions were nearly exhausted.  The party consisted of sixteen persons, among whom were Mr. Donner, his wife and four children.  During the night there came on a violent snow storm, which continued for three days, and completely blockaded every avenue of escape.  Their situation became alarming, and the prospect of relief, at so late a period in the season, seemed entirely hopeless; and yet, if they attempted to remain for the winter, they knew they must perish of cold and hunger.</P>
099.sgm:<P>In view of this fearful state of things, the strong men of the party resolved to make an effort to reach the valley on the coast, and for this purpose saddled the horses, and invited the entire party to join them.  But Mr. Donner, being unwell, declined.  His wife concluded to remain with him, but permitted her children to go.  After the party had mounted their horses, and were about to start, one of them, a stout Dutchman, dismounted and declared his intention to remain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:with Donner and his wife.  The party then started on their perilous journey, and, after severe struggles and much suffering, reached the valley in safety.  Soon after their departure, the cattle and horses left at the camp, escaped, and were lost in the mountains.  The remaining scanty supply of provisions in camp were soon exhausted.  Starvation came with all its horrors.  It is supposed that Donner and the Dutchman cast lots to determine which of the two should lose his life to become food for the others.  The lot fell on the Dutchman; but in the conflict, he killed Donner, and when the food thus furnished was consumed, he killed Mrs. Donner.  This is probably the truth; for in the spring, when the party in the valley returned to the mountains, with a view to relieve the sufferers, they found the Dutchman in the cabin, greedily gnawing the roasted flesh from a human arm, which had been severed from the body.  On searching, they found the mutilated remains of Mrs. Donner, buried in the snow near the cabin.  The indications were that she had been murdered.  The cannibal was seized, taken to the valley and imprisoned, but refused to give any account of the matter.  A few words written on a slip of paper, by Mrs. Donner, and found in the cabin, revealed the manner in which her husband had been killed.  In addition to this, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The highest point on the route over the Sierras, is Summit Station, seven thousand and forty-two feet above the level of the sea.  In crossing, we ran through some dozen tunnels, the longest of which is seventeen hundred feet.  Some of the bridges that span the gorges, are six to seven stories high, all built of trussel work.  They creak and tremble under the weight of the cars, and if you look down into the chasms below, you may expect your head to swim with a dizzy sensation.  The immense chasm, called Cape Horn, is, perhaps, the most terrific.  Not only its fearful depth, but its sweep of breadth and extent, and its awful overhanging crags of rocks, all combine to make it one of the grandest and most entrancing views of natural scenery anywhere to be found.  In this part of the route there are sixty miles of snowsheds, erected to protect the road from snow-slides <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In the vicinity of Gold Run, a small town in the mountains, we saw abundant evidences of surface mining for gold.  The soil for miles has been dug over and upturned by the miners.  On both sides of the road there are long lines of flumes, constructed of plank or boards, conducting currents of water to suit the several localities of the diggings.  Cleats or strips of board are nailed across the bottom plank of the flume, to arrest the particles of gold as they float, which are heavier than the drifting soil, and therefore sink and lodge against the cleats or stops.  Large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The descent down the western slope of the Sierras is comparatively steep and rapid, and soon accomplished.  The "Junction" at the foot is the last eating station going west.  It is so called because the Central connects here with the Sacramento and Oregon Railroad.  It is here we first entered the great coast valley of California.  From here the country is generally level in the direction of the Pacific, and the plains begin to widen as you proceed.  They are rich in point of soil, and here and there you will see herds of cattle and horses roaming at will.  There are no fences.  In the winter and spring months, California, they say, may justly be called "The Flowery Kingdom," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The City of Sacramento, where we arrived at noon, is situated on the east side of the river, bearing the same name.  It is quite a large city, famous for its enterprise and great wealth.  The leading men here are not men of straw, but men of pluck and of enlarged views.  Nothing, however formidable, seems too much for them to undertake.  A few years ago the city was but a hamlet, a mere outpost on the borders of the mining district; but now, though nearly destroyed several times by fire and flood, it has become a rich and flourishing city, containing some thirty thousand inhabitants.  It is the capital of California, and within a hundred and twenty-six miles of San Francisco.  Its leading hotels and public edifices are built on a large scale and in magnificent style.  It is the grand centre of railroads and machine shops, and manufacturing establishments, of almost every kind.  The shops belonging to the Pacific Central cover twenty acres of ground.  These shops are supplied with water by artesian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER VIII.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>SAN FRANCISCO, October 10th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>On the way from Sacramento to this city, we saw and learned some things that interested us exceedingly, and perhaps some account of them might interest you.  I allude to the vast, but shorn wheat fields, and the method of cultivating wheat.  The farms, or ranches, as they call them, through which we passed, are very extensive, consisting, in some instances, of many thousand acres.  At this season the entire extent of the country, along the route from Sacramento to this city, looks like a continuous stubble-field, and is dry and dusty.  The Sacramento valley is, in fact, the heart of the wheat region.  The lands are rich and generally level; but in some parts they become rolling and even hilly.  The quality of the wheat grown here excels that of any other part of the world.  The flour it makes is the whitest, and the bread the sweetest and most delicate imaginable.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:grain is so hard that it requires a special process to mill it.  Some farmers sow a breadth of one thousand to six thousand acres.  They plow with a machine, sow with a machine, reap with a machine, thrash and winnow with a machine.  The plow, called a "gang-plow" runs on wheels, and holds itself.  It has an elevated seat for the teamster, who sits and rides like a gentleman in a sulky.  The reaping machine, called a "header," runs ahead of the team that propels it, and clips off the wheat heads with a vibrating knife, letting them fall on a revolving canvas, which deposits them in an attendant wagon.  When full, the wagon delivers its contents to a thrashing-machine, which thrashes and winnows the grain, depositing it in heaps, where it remains in the open air, sometimes for weeks, until it can be sacked and delivered at a railroad station for transportation.  In a climate so dry as this is, they have no fears of rain for six or seven months in the year, and therefore build but few barns.  At different stations, along the Sacramento valley, we saw millions of bushels of wheat in sacks, lying along the track, corded up like fire-word, and extending for miles in a line with the wayside.  Its appearance reminded me of the great Chinese wall.  A country that fortifies itself with sacked wheat, can never be sacked, or subjugated.  The wheat crop <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Here let me stop and take breath for a few minutes.  It is refreshing to do so, in the midst of a series of constant surprises.  Coming from the East overland to California, is literally stepping into a new world.  Everything is new--a chaos of wonders.  Before I forget it, allow me to give you, in a few words, my general impressions of the mountain plains and the California valley, or coast, so far as I have already seen them.</P>
099.sgm:<P>In the mountain ranges, with a few exceptions, the face of the country is destitute of timber of every kind; looks like a desert, and is relieved by no green thing, except sage brush.  This plant abounds, and in its odor and appearance resembles our garden sage, but grows much larger and stronger, and is as scraggy as the witch of Endor's hair.  It has its uses, however, and is gathered, dried and consumed, as fuel, by the pioneers and aborigines.  It has a pungent taste and the flavor of sage, and doubtless may possess valuable medicinal qualities.</P>
099.sgm:<P>So in the valleys and plains along the coast range, there is little or no timber to be found.  The only trees to be seen in traveling by rail, are the low branching live oaks, an evergreen which looks like an aged apple tree in its shape and size.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>We arrived in San Francisco on the 6th inst., early in the evening, crossing the Bay in a steamer.  The moment we stepped on the wharf, we were surrounded by an army of noisy and uproarious backmen, who contended with each other manifully for the prizes, or rather for the victims.  Every hotel in the city was lauded as the best, and denounced as the worst in town.  We knew where we wished to go, and soon escaped from the battlefield in a private hack to a friend's house.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The next day we took a brief survey of our whereabouts, and found ourselves in the heart of a splendid city, only twenty years old, yet looking mature, and destined to become the great central city of the commercial world.  It is here that Europe, Asia and America will meet, shake hands, and be good friends.  Here they will concentrate their wealth, exchange commodities, gamble in stocks, and test the comparative sharpness of their wits.</P>
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099.sgm:<P>In the course of a few days, after our arrival, we began to feel quite at home in the city.  The citizens are candid, frank and polite to strangers, and generous to a fault.  They are proud of their city, and seem to think there is no other place in the wide world so delightful as California.  In this opinion I concur so far as my brief experience extends.  The general aspect of the city is peculiar.  It looks as if it was constructed of sand-hills and windmills, and in truth it really is.  The picture, however, has some other features of a more attractive character.  It is a difficult city to describe.  In fact, there is very little use in attempting to describe it.  If I should attempt, it would outgrow my description before I could finish it.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The city is located on the tip end of a tongue of land, or peninsula, lying between the Bay and the Sea.  This peninsula is about forty miles long and ten to twelve broad.  The surface is broken into hills and vales, and presents to the eye a scene of great natural beauty, wild and romantic as fairy land.  From the north end of the peninsula the city has already extended itself southerly some six miles, and is rapidly advancing.  It contains at this time, it is said, one hundred and seventy-five thousand inhabitants.  This is a wonderful growth for a city but twenty years old, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:especially when we consider the fact that it has been twice almost entirely destroyed by fire.  The time will soon come when the city will extend over and densely occupy the whole peninsula.  The Bay is amply sufficient in breadth and depth to accommodate the navies of the civilized world, and furnishes a line of dockage that might be improved and extended to the entire distance of forty miles.  If I were a land speculator, I would invest in the peninsula, in preference to investing in the richest gold mine as yet known in California.  One can hardly miss it, who purchases land anywhere within ten or twenty miles of the city.  Nature evidently intended there should be a great city here--the central mart of the commercial world--and has therefore done her part in laying the foundations on a magnificent scale.  The San Franciscans, though sagacious and quick in their perceptions, do not yet seem to comprehend the great, the splendid future that lies before them.  It may be truthfully said of the Pacific coast, generally, that for climate and productiveness of soil, it excels the world.  For beauty of natural scenery and sunny skies, Italy does not compare with it.  The air here is so pure and exhilarating, that it makes one feel, who breathes it, as if he were drinking champagne all the time.  It not only invigorates the invalid, but rejuvenates old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:age, and prolongs life to an indefinite period, so long, indeed, that persons wishing to die at three score and ten, can't.  So say the Californians.  It is enough, perhaps, to say that it is a wonderful country--a land of fruits and flowers, enriched with mountains of gold.  It is the gold that "lends enchantment to the view."  Yet this modern paradise has its annoyances.  In San Francisco, dense fogs envelop the city till ten o'clock in the morning, and strong winds prevail the rest of the day, drifting the sand into mounds, and into your eyes so as to blind you.  Turning the corners of the streets in the wind, reminds you of a drifting snow-storm, in mid-winter, in a New England city.  Still, by way of compensation for all this, you have here a cloudless sky for nine months in the year; a climate that is uniformly mild; and a vernal season that flings over the hills and the valleys a mantle of wild flowers, perfuming every breath of air you breathe.  And yet, in California, it is gold that makes the man; the want of it, an outcast, or an outlaw.  It is said there are at least seven thousand able-bodied men in San Francisco, who cannot find employment, and probably more than twice that number roving about the State, awaiting chances, who are alike destitute of friends and of money; and hence, many of this class, with starvation staring them in the face, resort to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER IX.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>SAN FRANCISCO, October 20th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The more I see of this city the more I am surprised with its peculiarities, nationalities, and novelties.  It is a modern Rome, built on not only seven, but seventy times seven hills.  Some of these hills are large, and composed of granite; but the most of them are conical sand-hills, which have been drifted into strange and novel shapes by the prevailing winds, and which are constantly increasing or diminishing, at the will of the freakish and invisible spirits that mould them.  In many parts of the city nearly every lot is, or was, prior to the grade, encumbered with a sand-hill.  The grading often costs more than the lot.  The large sand-hills are removed by steam shovels, and cars that run on temporary railways, constructed for the purpose.  In this way, deep valleys are filled up by the deposit, and new lots made.  In fact, it has cost about as much to grade the city as to build <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The windmills give to the general appearance of the city a feature that is as singular as it is repulsive to architectural taste.  They are erected for the purpose of pumping water from wells to irrigate the lawns and gardens, and consist of a frame tower twenty of thirty feet high, surmounted with a circular tank, and a fan-wheel which revolves in the wind, working a force-pump, that supplies water to the tank, whence it is conducted in pipes, or open flumes, to every part of the lawn or garden.  By this means the grounds occupied for residences are kept green, and the gardens made productive, the year round.  Those citizens who neglect to irrigate, reside in sandy deserts, just the size of their respective lots, during the dry season, which continues for seven or eight months of the year.  The poorer classes cannot afford the luxury of irrigation, and consequently the town plat for two thirds of the year looks like a chequer board, or patch bed-quilt.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The commercial part of the city is located along the Bay, and built up in magnificent style, in blocks of stone, brick, and iron, three and four stories high, and equal to the best business streets in the eastern cities.  Most of the buildings are anchored or braced with iron bolts, so as to secure them against the action of earthquakes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>There is no city on the face of the globe, I think, in which the leading business men exhibit so much activity and intensity of purpose, so much rushing ahead in the streets, as in San Francisco.  The business streets, from morning till night, are crowded with passing drays, and men stepping on each other's heels, and jostling elbows at every angle, as if life were at stake.  And more especially is this true on steamer days, so called from the sailing of the Panama steamers every two weeks, when all merchants are expected to settle balances with each other.  In doing this an unusual bustle is created in the streets and in the banks; hundreds of men are seen bearing hither and thither <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The various nationalities concentrated in San Francisco, make it an epitome of the civilized world.  In fact, every civilized nation is represented here.  The Irish predominate and dominate.  The Chinese are curiosities.  They dress alike, and look alike, and are really a very shrewed people.  Not much less than thirty thousand reside in the city.  Some of them are merchants on a large scale, worth from thousands to millions of dollars, and are truly very intelligent and accomplished men.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>We stepped into one of their temples, escorted by a Chinaman, and took a view of its interior and the manner of the worshipers.  The temple we visited is built of brick, stands retired from the street and in the rear of other buildings, and is reached by a narrow passage between high brick walls.  In the second story there is a spacious hall, dusty and dismal as a prison, which is but faintly lighted by a single taper standing on a sort of pulpit or desk, near the end of the hall.  Behind this desk, on a shelf-like projection somewhat elevated, sits Joss--the god--before whom the worshipers reverently bow in a kneeling posture, hiding their faces in their hands as in prayer, and whispering a few words, then rise and retire without observing any special order or time, either in going or coming.  The hall is decorated with fantastical pictures of man, beast and plant, and other things unlike any thing in nature.  The graven image, Joss, sitting on his elevated seat behind the desk, resembles a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In regard to the Good Spirit, the Celestials believe that all the blessings they enjoy in this life are derived from him, and that he is too good and too kindly disposed in his nature to do them harm.  They say he dwells in Heaven, is invisible, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:undefinable, and cannot, therefore, be represented by an image, or elevated or gratified by human worship, but receives the souls of all good Chinamen at death, who live in accordance with the divine instructions of Confucius, and whose dust is commingled, after death, with the sacred soil of the Celestial Empire.  Hence every Chinaman desires to be buried in his native land, and, in case he dies in a foreign country, makes provision for the return of his remains, if possible.  In San Francisco, there are several organized companies among the Chinese, who receive deposits and apply the money in payment of expenses for re-shipping to China the remains of their countrymen, who die in California.  This practice grows out of their religious belief.  They are, indeed, a peculiar people.  There is much in their character, however, which should command the respect of christendom.  They are an honest, industrious, peace-loving people, who have achieved a refined civilization; a civilization which is older, nobler and purer than that of Rome, Greece or Egypt.  The "Golden Rule," the very basis of Christianity, was derived from China, and taught in China more than four thousand years before the commencement of the Christian era.  Their government is based on moral character and educational acquirement.  They revere their rulers, honor age, and commune with the spirits of their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>It is true the Chinese love money, and will do any thing, or suffer any hardship, to get it; yet they are trustworthy and skilful in whatever they engage, and strive to give their employers satisfaction.  In this they seldom fail.  They are generally liked, except by the Irish, who hate and abuse them because they cheapen labor and are preferred.  They are very considerate of the prejudices of white men and never intrude, not even to take seats inside street cars, but pay and ride on the outside platform.  They are habitually polite, civil and respectful, in whatever position they are placed, whether as servants in families, or as laborers in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In fact, these Asiatics are becoming an important element in American civilization, and not only deserve to be encouraged, but should enjoy equal rights with American citizens.  We have a vast unoccupied territory that needs developement; nothing but cheap labor can do it, the more the better.  China might spare a hundred millions of her dense population and hardly miss them.  This country could receive that number by degrees, and in the course of a half century become the mart and master of the world, if she is not already.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The uniform mild climate of the Pacific coast is really an Asiatic climate, happily adapted to the occupation and developement of the Mongolian race.  There is something in the effect of climate that enstamps its impress on the race to which it is adapted.  Hence the Mexicans, the Indians, the Pacific islanders, the Japanese, the Chinese, and Hindostanese belong to an Asiatic climate, and are constituted essentially alike in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER X.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>SAN FRANCISCO, October 30th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Gold not only concentrates but begets talent.  This is fully illustrated in the history of San Francisco.  Here you will find, concentrated, more men who excel in every art and science, than in any other city in the world containing the same population.  This is true, whether you refer to genius and excellence, as exhibited in the pulpit, at the bar, on the bench, at the counter, or in the workshop.  The public libraries are numerous, and some of them extensive.  The Mercantile library contains over thirty thousand volumes.  The public schools are conducted with great efficiency and sustained by a liberal taxation.  The churches, of which there are some sixty or more, are also liberally sustained and generally well attended.  The church in which the late Starr King preached, is among the most attractive for its size, finish and arrangements.  The society built it in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The Jewish synagogue, on Sutter street, is a very large and imposing edifice, richly finished inside and out, and in point of wealth and grandeur might be taken for Solomon's temple.  Its circular towers overlook the city, and like the shot tower, are among the first objects that attract the stranger's eye.  The "old Mission Church," on Mission street, built of adobe by the Jesuits nearly one hundred years ago, is an interesting relic of olden time, and well worth a visit.  The Catholics are supposed to be the most numerous religious sect in San Francisco, the Protestants next, and then the Jews.  A large number of the merchants, it is said, are Jews; the balance French, Spaniards, Italians, Germans, Scotch, English, Irish, Chinese and Americans.  In the latter class are embraced nearly all the leading merchants of the city.  They are the men of backbone and enterprise, who build the city and pay the burthen of its taxation.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The trade and commerce of San Francisco have become comparatively immense.  In less than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The climate here is always temperate and delightful, not excepting the rainy season, which is made up, like our April, of sunshine and showers.  The thermometer rarely varies more than seven degrees.  But twice in the last twenty years have snow-flakes whitened the ground, or been known to fall in San Francisco.  For at least three-fourths of the year you may here enjoy a continous sun-shine, without the interruption of a cloud.  Woolen clothing is worn the year round by the citizens.  The nights are always cool, and you sleep well.  The markets are stocked throughout the year with the best of beef, mutton, wild game, fish and fowl, including every variety of fruits and garden vegetables.  The gardens furnish strawberries, green corn, green peas, new potatoes, and other luxuries of this character in abundance, every month in the year.  The fruits and vegetables are as excellent in quality as they are remarkable for size.  Onions grow as large as tea-plates; beets sometimes weigh <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>A man may live here for fifty cents a day, or at the rate of five dollars a day, and so far as food is concerned about equally well at either price.  Wages are high; laborers who are skilful are scarce, while speculators are quite too numerous.  And yet the city is full of idlers who live, nobody knows how.  You see them at every corner in the business streets, standing in groups earnestly discussing or cursing their luck and prospects.  The hotels overflow with strangers coming and going, all on the rush.  On some of the streets, nearly every other door opens into a drinking saloon, gambling den, or something worse.  The gamblers dress richly and overload themselves with ostentatious jewelry.  There is no place so safe that thieves do not "break through and steal."  And yet there is as much good society to be found in San Francisco as in any oter city of the same population.  They are a social, genial, generous people, especially the better classes.  They appreciate talent.  A high order of talent commands any price it pleases to ask, in the pulpit, at the concert, or in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The city has natural advantages which cannot be taken away from her.  She has no rival, and need fear none.  She sits majestic on her throne of hills, and bathes her feet in the sea.  Telegraph-hill is her flag-staff.  It looks in the distance like a church spire, and is built with dwellings to its apex.  From its highest point floats the American flag, as a signal to ships at sea, seeking to enter the Golden Gate.  The islands in the bay are small, but exceedingly picturesque, and look like emeralds bestudding the bosom of the ocean.  The Government occupies several of them for military purposes.  Nature opened the golden gate by cleaving asunder a mountain range, and left it open.  Any ship can pass through it that pleases, except a public enemy.  The adjoining fort, built as it were on one of the gate-posts--a bluff--commands the entrance.  If an enemy should attempt to pass, one broadside from the guns of the fort would annihilate him.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Montgomery street is the Broadway of San Francisco.  It is thronged from morning till night with a richly dressed people, many men, and some fair women.  In other words, it is the fashionable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In the evening when the street lamps are lighted, if you climb flag-staff hill and take a survey of the brilliant scene, you will think you have caught a view of the great celestial city, all ablaze with glory, and undulating in billows of light over a vast range of hills and valleys, where the infinite armies of the blest, clad in glittering raiment, are marching on from height to height, until lost in the unbounded domain of the burning stars.</P>
099.sgm:<P>There are several public gardens within the city which are filled with all that is rich and rare in art and nature, especially Woodward's.  In the suburbs, also, there are many pleasant places of public resort.  The Cliff House is one of the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In going to the Cliff House, we took the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER XI.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>SAN FRANCISCO, November 5th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>In this famous city and in its surroundings, there are so many places of interest to a stranger that I find it impossible to visit them all.  A few days ago we took a drive on the San Bruno turnpike, a delightful road that winds along the margin of the bay, and around the spurs of Mount Bruno, that terminate upon it.  On the one hand lay the placid waters of the bay; on the other, mountain spurs and intervening valleys of rare beauty.  It is one of Nature's theatres, in which she appears clad in all her native charms.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Along the line of the bay, and within a few rods of us, thousands of waterfowl, ducks and geese, were swimming, or flying about in groups, quite fearless of man and thoughtless of danger.  On the land-side, the natural scenery was ever varying, as we rounded the sharp points and projections of the mountain spurs.  Here was an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In the distance, on the opposite side of the bay, Mount Diablo lifts his giant form, as if taking a quiet survey of this lovely realm.  He feels interested, I doubt not, in the "march of civilization," and is waiting patiently for opportunities.  They say, go where you will, the evil one is ever present.  Diablo is a prominent landmark, being the meridian point in the survey of the State; a lofty mountain, standing alone in the midst of the surrounding plains.  There is an extensive coal mine connected with it, that furnishes several of the neighboring towns with fuel.  In the course of our ride we crossed the San Jose Railroad, and stopped to rest our horses at a farm-house, belonging to our friend, one of the party, who resides in the city.  We returned by the Mission Bay route, led by the stars.  It was a delightful excursion, and one which we shall long remember.</P>
099.sgm:<P>We next visited the famous Dry Dock, at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>There are so many pleasant spots, villas and towns, in the vicinity of San Francisco, that it is quite impossible for me to describe the half of them.  The truth is, it is a realm of natural beauty, so improved by art, as to baffle my descriptive powers.  If you would know all about it, you must come and see for yourself; there is positively no other way of acquiring a true knowledge of this more than fairy land; and especially is this true of the eastern side of the bay.  You can go over by steamer any hour in the day you please; and if you go once, you will be sure to go several times.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Oakland is the first town over the bay you will prefer to visit.  It stands in about the same relation to San Francisco that Brooklyn does to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Near Oakland, and on the same side of the bay, is Alameda, a rural town of ten or twelve hundred inhabitants, who reside in the midst of flower gardens and vineyards, and beautifully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>While here we were entertained at the house of a friend, who is a distinguished lawyer, doing business in San Francisco.  He has an accomplished lady for a wife, and a fine family of promising children, almost "too numerous to mention," and is evidently one of the happiest men alive, amid all his cares and responsibilities.  His house is a spacious one, furnished in modern style, and located in a ten-acre garden, which is cultivated to a high degree in all that is not only useful, but rare and beautiful.  It was late in October when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The little village of Hayward, twenty-two miles south-east of San Francisco, is somewhat noted for its hot springs, which are medicinal and often visited by invalids.  The village is cheaply built, with small frame buildings, standing two or three feet high from the ground, on wooden blocks or stilts.  The earthquake of October 21st, 1868, destroyed, it was said, most of the town.  The buildings were not in fact destroyed, but merely thrown from their legs to the ground.  It was a sort of a vibrating wrestle with an earthquake, which the denizens did not much relish.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The shocks of the earthquake were more destructive in San Francisco than elsewhere.  The currents of electricity passed in two distinct belts through the city.  The range of the belts, or tracks, were nearly parallel, as marked by the damage that was done.  In the business part of the city the walls of the brick buildings were in many instances cracked, or shattered, while some were prostrated in ruins, killing a few persons outright, and terrifying the citizens generally.  The first shock occurred about the usual breakfast hour.  This was the severest, and did not prove a desirable appetizer.  The fashionables, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER XII.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>LOS ANGELES, November 10th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>We left San Francisco on the 6th inst., and after a voyage by the coast steamer of two days and a half, entered the Bay of San Pedro, where we were transferred to a small class steamer and taken seven miles up the bay to Wilmington; thence by rail, twenty-two miles, to this ancient city.  There is just now a great rush of travel to this and other towns along the coast, especially to San Diego, where the Southern Pacific Railroad, as it is expected, will make its terminus.  The steamer on which we came, left port with three hundred passengers, and was overladen with freight: the sea rough, and nearly all sick; some swore and some cascaded.  On the way we saw a whale spouting and frolicking within two hundred yards of the ship.  He frequently showed his back above water, and in spouting, gave us a good specimen of the fountain, when playing, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Los Angeles is indebted to the Jesuits for its name, which means "The City of the Angels;" but judging from the specimens I have seen here, I should say that their visits have been "few and far between," unless angels are made up of mixed bloods, and of all colors, and sadly made up at that.  Take it altogether, it is a unique old town, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The climate here is the finest in the world, never too hot and never too cold, but always equable and exhilarating.  It never rains except in winter; the fruit trees, the gardens and the vineyards are ever flourishing, and commingle fruits and flowers in perennial profusion.  The winter rains are nothing more than genial showers.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In the vicinity there are several extensive orange and lemon groves, as well as vineyards and other fruits.  The orange grove we visited contains twelve hundred and sixty trees, sixteen years old, and was ladened with fruit in every stage of growth from buds and blossoms to ripe fruit.  The average annual crop from each tree, we were told, yields a profit of seventy-five dollars.  We also saw a grove of the English walnut, the annual product of which, per tree, was estimated at one hundred and twenty-five dollars.  In addition to these they cultivate many other kinds of fruit with equal success, if not with equal profit, such as figs, olives, dates, limes, pears, peaches, and apples.  It is here that the two climes, the temperate and the tropical, seem to overlap each other, and to vie with each other in the excellence and abundance of their productions.</P>
099.sgm:<P>From Los Angeles, which we regarded as our base, or central point, we made an excursion into the country, and visited several of the most extensive ranches within the circuit of a hundred miles, traveling in an open carriage.  A ranch is simply an old Spanish plantation, containing usually from ten thousand to one hundred and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>After the war they attempted to adopt American habits, and to live in American style; the result was, they became extravagant, and soon so encumbered their estates that they were obliged to sell them at nominal prices.  The Americans were the purchasers, and obtained the lands, in many instances, as low as ten cents an acre.  Some of these large tracts, thus obtained, are now worth from five to fifty dollars an acre.  They compose the best lands in California, and extend in a chain of valleys from San Diego to San Francisco, and even along the entire coast of the State.  The appearance of these ranch lands in the summer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>We visited several ranches, and were not only politely received and entertained, but acquired an interesting, though brief, experience of ranch life.  We remained nearly a week at the ranch, known as the San Joaquin.  This ranch consists of one hundred and ten thousand acres, and is stocked with forty thousand fine-wooled sheep.  In extent, it is one of the largest ranches south of Los Angeles, being some twelve miles wide by twenty long.  It is mostly valley land, and stretches from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>These lagoons terminate in a small bay, which extends from the ocean into the ranch about two miles.  On the shore of this bay I saw a camp of Mexican fishermen, who were engaged in manufacturing oil from the carcasses of sharks, which they catch in abundance along the sea coast.  The Mexicans make this a profitable business.  They go out to sea in small boats, and catch the sharks by harpooning or shooting them, as they rise to the surface in their eagerness to swallow the bait flung to them.  When caught, they are towed into the bay, and so great is the number of their skeletons lying about the camp, that the atmosphere, throughout the entire vicinity for miles, is rendered impure and even offensive.  Nothing of this kind, I believe, can offend the olfactories of a Mexican.</P>
099.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The sheep with which this ranch is stocked, are subdivided in flocks of three thousand to five thousand, and each division placed in charge of a shepherd, who watches over them, by day and by night, like the shepherds of old, but with this difference, perhaps, that he gathers the sheep into a corral or pen at night, and then betakes himself to his eight-by-ten board cabin, next the enclosure, and there cooks, eats and sleeps as best he can, with no other associates than his sheep and faithful dog.  His life is truly a lonely one, and yet he seems happy in the companionship of his sheep and dog, who understand his signs and his whistle, and even the import of his words, and obey him with a child-like confidence in his superior wisdom and intelligence.  The annual clip of wool from the sheep of this ranch, is said to be about two hundred thousand pounds.  It is of the finest quality, and sells at a high price in the eastern market.  Add to the income from the wool the annual product of twenty thousand lambs, and it is easy to see that wool-growing is a very profitable business in California.</P>
099.sgm:<P>In some parts of the coast range, there are numbers of very extensive dairy ranches.  One ranch in Marin county, containing sixty thousand acres, is stocked with over three thousand head of milch cows.  Some fifteen or twenty other ranches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The largest cheese ever made in the world, was made on one of these dairy ranches.  It was made during the late war, and weighed four thousand pounds.  It was sold in San Francisco at fifty cents a pound, for the benefit of the "Sanitary Fund."  The butter, as well as the cheese, is manufactured by steam power.  In this business, fortunes may be made or lost in a single year.  Little things cannot be done in California; it must be great things or nothing.</P>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER XIII.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>ANAHEIM, November 16th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>This is a beautiful little German city, "the loveliest of the plain," situated on the banks of the Santa Ana river.  The name of the town combines the German word "home" with the name of the river.  A German company purchased the site, consisting of one thousand acres, some fifteen years ago, and laid it out in city lots, with broad streets running at right angles.  Each lot contains twenty acres, and is planted with a vineyard.  In other words, it is a city of vineyards, and takes the lead in California as a wine district.  The quality of its wine is excellent, and the amount annually produced, very large.  The wine is sold by the pipe, and goes to dealers in San Francisco, who bottle it and put it into the market.  They paid but twenty cents a gallon for the product of this year, and sell it bottled at the rate of three dollars per gallon.  Much of it is shipped east.</P>
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099.sgm:<P>We visited several of the vineyards, and were delighted with their beauty and the skill manifested in their culture.  The cultivators say, however, that they are not paid for their labor at the present price of wine, and some of them have already introduced the raisin grape, and propose, hereafter, to grow raisins instead of wine.  We saw some of the raisin grapes; the raisins made from them, are excellent, quite equal to the best Smyrna raisins.  The process of manufacture is simple--nothing more than drying the grapes in the sun on a board platform, and then packing them in boxes.  The juices of the grape, in the process of drying, crystallize and coat the fruit with sugar.  In this culture, women and children can be employed with equal advantage, and, for the product, there is everywhere a ready market at remunerative prices.</P>
099.sgm:<P>In one of the fruit orchards here, we saw an appletree loaded with the second crop of apples which it has borne this year.  They were of medium size, and would ripen in January.  The fruits in California, especially apples and grapes, are much milder in flavor than those grown in the Eastern States.  Belmonts become nearly sweet, and Rhode Island greenings lose their acidity in a good degree, while grapes, of whatever variety, acquire a degree of sweetness which is almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In returning from the sheep-ranch to this vine-clad city, we crossed several large rivers, nearly half a mile wide, but with channels dry as a sand desert.  In this country, most of the rivers become dry in summer, or so low that the water, what little there is at different points, sinks, and is lost in the sand; perhaps in underground currents.  But, in the rainy season, the rivers often overflow their banks and flood the country, far and near, making it extremely dangerous to cross them with teams.  As yet, there are no bridges or ferry boats.  The quicksands in the beds of the streams, increase the danger of passing them.  It often happens that horses, wagons, and all, go down, and sometimes are lost.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Southern California is almost etirely destitute of valuable timber.  In some directions you might go a hundred miles and not be able to cut a walking stick.  There are, of course, no fences.  Everybody's herds and flocks graze where they please, unless watched by herders.  It is bewildering to ride through the vast plains of tall grass and wild mustard, especially at this season of the year, when vegetation stands erect, though dead and dry as a stubble-field.  The mustard grows seven feet high, and when mature, resembles a field of ripened rye.  It is of good quality, and is often <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Wild game is very abundant.  Innumerable squirrels, gray and black, burrow in the ground for want of trees, and may be seen running in all directions.  The coyotes, a kind of wolf, are also numerous, and destructive among the sheep.  In addition to these, there are deer, wildcats, bears and lions, among the foot-hills and higher mountains, and acres of wild geese flying in the air, or feeding along the lagoons and water courses.  There are two distinct varieties of geese, the white and the black.  We also saw rabbits in abundance, as well as multitudes of quails, hawks, crows, and buzzards.  Blackbirds in flocks follow the sheep, and often light on their backs, picking the grass-seeds lodged in their wool, and riding along at leisure.  The sheep submit with perfect indifference.  It is a novel sight.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Beside all this variety of game, there are plenty of wild hogs running about in the marshes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>We had thought of visiting San Diego, the border town in Southern California, but on meeting with a reliable personal friend, who had just returned from there, and who gave us a particular description of the place and its vicinity, we abandoned the idea.  The part known as the "old town," is located some distance from the harbor, and is settled principally by Mexicans.  It is built of adobe, with a broad common, or plaza, in the center.  The bay is said to be as commodious and safe as that of San Francisco.  The Southern Pacific Railroad is to terminate here, and make a direct connection with the Asiatic trade.  When this is done, San Diego must become the formidable rival of San Francisco.  In anticipation of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The future of San Diego is destined to be brilliant.  Its bay is capacious, and being the terminus of the southern trans-continental railway, it cannot fail to become, at least, the second great city of the Pacific coast.  At present, it is impossible to ascertain the exact point where the projected railway will terminate; yet the land speculators are purchasing and selling city lots to each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The country, generally in this region, is as barren as the desert of Sahara.  Some attempts have been made to sink wells, but without much success.  It is claimed, however, that the soil, though nothing but white sand, will produce grain, fruits and vegetables in perfection, if irrigated.  But as there are no living streams of water, this cannot be done to any considerable extent.  Rain seldom falls, and what is still worse, a hot wind, a periodical sirocco, generated in the vast sand deserts of Arizona, comes sweeping over the plains, and along the coast in the direction of San Diego, withering every green plant, vegetable and tree, which you attempt to rear by the process of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER XIV.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>LOS ANGELES, November 18th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>From Anaheim we returned by stage to this ancient City of the Angels.  Myself, wife, and an Englishman were the only passengers who took seats in the coach at Anaheim.  The coachman, accompanied with an armed guard, sat on the outside.  The distance between the two cities is about forty miles, and the region through which we had to pass, is for the most part wild and uninhabited.  A few weeks prior to this time the stage coach had been waylaid on this route, and all the passengers robbed of their money and other valuables.</P>
099.sgm:<P>When we arrived at the first station, a man of middle age took passage with us.  His manner of entering the coach and his general appearance, were anything but prepossessing.  He looked rough, seedy and sunburnt, but said nothing.  I soon discovered that he carried in a leathern belt, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>In a short time we emerged into an open plain of vast extent, bordered by the spurs of the neighboring mountains on our right.  Here we saw two sinister looking Mexicans, who were mounted on horses and belted with pistols, heading in the direction of the mountains.  Our seedy fellow-passenger watched their movements with intense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:interest, and with evident disappointment.  Why they were objects of so much interest to him, or what connection they might have had with him, is more than I can say.  But his appearance and the circumstances gave us unpleasant impressions, and, in fact, somewhat alarmed us.  The Englishman, like myself, was unarmed.  He had but recently arrived from England, and was possessed of considerable money, which he desired to invest in California lands.  This I had learned from him before leaving Anaheim, and thought it possible the fact might be known to our suspicious looking fellow-passenger.  But when we reached the outskirts of the city, he leaped like a tiger from the coach and disappeared.  We all felt relieved, and congratulated ourselves on the happy riddance.  The next day we heard that he was one of the bandits who, a few weeks previously, had waylaid the stage in the night, at a point near the city, and plundered the passengers.  He had agreed, it was said, to turn State's evidence against his associates in crime, who had been arrested, and thus secure his own escape from the penalties of the law.  For having made this agreement, he probably feared assassination by the hand of some one who belonged to the same secret organization as himself.  It was mainly on his testimony that his comrades were convicted, and sent in chains to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>While remaining at Los Angeles, we visited some of the spots of the most interest--the court house--the old cathedral, built in 1773, and the hill that overlooks the town, where Gen. Fremont, in the war with Mexico, entrenched the forces under his command, and held the city in subjection.  The entrenchments are still to be seen.  While here, the General observed symptoms of revolt in the movements of the Catholic priesthood, on a Sunday, at the church, under the guise of religious services; and seeing armed men passing in and out, ordered a cannon shot to be fired in that direction, which struck the gable-end window and passed through the church, in the walls of which the ball-hole still remains visible.  The result was a grand scare, short prayers, and a sudden exit of the congregation.  This unexpected mixture of prayers and powder did not agree very well with either the religious views or patriotic feelings of the Mexicans.  The last battle with the Mexicans, which occurred in this region, was fought on the banks of the river San Gabriel, within a few miles of the city.  This proved decisive.  Annexation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The main street of the city is about a mile long.  The south half is occupied almost exclusively by Mexicans; the north half mostly by Americans.  The style of building distinguishes very plainly the difference in taste and character of the two nationalities.  In the immediate neighborhood of the city are several very fine fruit orchards and gardens, which are much visited and admired by strangers.  We have met, while here, several southern gentlemen, who were distinguished officers in the war of the Rebellion, and who have located themselves on ranches near Los Angeles, and are now engaged in growing wool and fine horses.  They are gentlemen in every sense of the word, and submit to the new condition of things with becoming grace and a genial temper.  They say they prefer a whiteman's government, and confidently predict that negro-freedom will prove a failure--a misfortune, alike, both to the white and the black race.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The Union Hotel has the lead.  Here we find the best of company and the best of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:accomodations.  There are several other good hotels, all of which, as well as the Union, are overflowing with guests at the present time.  You will see here but very few ladies, either at the hotels or on the streets.  There is just now a rush of adventurers and land speculators to this point, who are attempting to make fortunes by overreaching each other.  Yet we have noticed the arrival of some families, who propose to become permanent citizens.  City lots have advanced rapidly within the last few months, and the prospect of a railway connecting San Diego and Los Angeles with San Francisco, has had a magic effect in directing public attention to this region.  The citizens here are jubilant, and seem disposed to indulge in extravagant expectations.  As yet, however, business appears to be done on a limited scale.  The merchants, small and large, occupy main street.  More than half the shops are devoted to the sale of fruits, refreshments, or whiskey, interspersed with an undue proportion of gambling saloons.  In and about these shops you meet with all nationalities, and a mixture of all colors.  Nearly all the living languages of Europe, Asia and America, are spoken here.  It is somewhat difficult to distinguish the Indians from the Mexicans, the two races have become so intermixed.  There is a large ranch, consisting, as we are told, of a hundred thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>Los Angeles is the central point of business operations in Southern California.  The lands that surround it are fertile and desirable, and must eventually become valuable.  In fact, all the valley lands among the neighboring mountains are rich in point of soil, and only wait the advent of the agriculturalist to give ample evidence of their capabilities and productions.  About sixty miles south-easterly from the city, there is an extensive tract of rich, level land, known as the San Bernardino Valley.  The climate is delightful the year round, and thither the swelling tide of emigration, with a view to actual settlement, is at present directed.  Every one who has visited this beautiful valley, speaks of it in glowing terms.  The lands can be obtained at Government price, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>But, at present, the valley is somewhat difficult of access, and far from market.  The roads are simply trails, and exceedingly rough along the mountain passes.  Yet a good many families have already settled there, and will ultimately realize their most sanguine expectations, if one may judge from the expression of common sentiment in regard to the promising future of that region.  The adjoining mountains are said to be rich in mineral wealth, such as coal, gold and iron.  Our stage acquaintance, the Englishman, had visited this valley, and was quite enchanted with its fertility and beauty.  He regretted the want of law and order, and related an occurrence which took place while he was there.  A traveler, on horse-back, while approaching the valley through a mountain gorge, was attacked by three ruffians, robbed of his money, watch, horse and clothing, and left to find his way, as best he could, to some habitation.  In the wilder portions of California, crimes of this character are committed almost daily.  Pistols and pluck are the only safe-guards on which you can rely in such emergencies.  It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>Here I must conclude for the present.  At eleven this morning we leave the city for San Francisco; by rail to Wilmington, and thence by sea.  It is Thanksgiving Day, and I know not where we shall dine; certainly not with our old tried friends at home.  Pleasant, indeed, are the many reminiscences connected with the thanksgivings of the past; the intermingling at the old homestead of youth and age, eating, drinking, laughing, joking, dancing and story-telling.  O, that I were at home and young again--wouldn't I have a gay old time of it?  Good bye!</P>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER XV.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>SAN FRANCISCO, December 5th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>We came up the coast on the steamer Orizaba, having left Los Angeles on thanksgiving day.  The sea was rough, and soon after stepping on board, we concluded to defer eating our thanksgiving dinner till next year.  We tried to take it easy, but felt very uneasy, and, in all we had to say and do, manifested a critical taste, decidedly squeamish.  In fact, we were in a critical mood--moodish--and remained so for nearly three days, when we lifted up our eyes and beheld the Golden Gate, the gate of deliverance, feeling truly thankful that there is such a thing as dry land.</P>
099.sgm:<P>On the way I took but few notes, and saw but little worth noting.  A screaming flock of seagulls, a shark and a brigade of porpoises followed the ship during the entire voyage.  We amused ourselves in looking over the taffrail at the gliding porpoises, and in flinging fragments of food <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>The line of the coast, for nearly the whole distance of four hundred miles, is abrupt, chalky and barren.  It has neither grass, nor tree of any kind growing upon it.  It is bordered by a range of hills and broken mountains, which subside, at different points, as they approach the sea, into table lands of considerable extent.  The coast is uninhabited, with the exception of a small town or two, and so monotonous as to weary the eye with its uniformity.  About the only landmark of any interest, is Point Concepcion, the spur of a foot-hill thrust into the sea, and on the brow of which stands a Government lighthouse, with a large bell swinging in its tower.  When our steamer rounded the point, the lighthouse bell was merrily rung by way of paying the customary salute.</P>
099.sgm:<P>In San Francisco, as well as elsewhere, there are wise men--prophets who utter their annual predictions.  They say that earthquakes may be expected these days.  The serve earthquake, which occurred here on the 21st of October, 1868, was so peculiar in its character, as to attract the attention of scientific men, who, in attempting to investigate the true cause, have advanced some ingenious theories.</P>
099.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>The prevailing modern idea seems to be that earthquakes result from electrical action in the earth's crust, or in the atmosphere, simultaneous, perhaps, in both.  We know that electricity is an invisible force, active or quiescent, and abounds everywhere, in a positive or negative state.  When the equilibrium has been disturbed, whatever the cause, it is certain that it will be restored by a like cause.  The action of the electrical forces may or may not be instantaneous.  The earth is said to be a great electrical reservoir, and so, in all probability, is the atmosphere; the one positive, the other negative, generally, or at points; yet always accumulating force, quietly, or violently, in the vain endeavor to restore a perfect equilibrium.  Hence, we have thunder and lightning overhead and earthquakes under foot.  The forces are the same.  The one is a skyquake, the other an earthquake.  The one would seem to be a substitute for the other, as in California, where they never have thunder and lightning, but are amply compensated by frequent earthquakes.  For eight or nine months in the year they are favored with a bright sun and a cloudless sky.  When the rainy season commences, it brings with it violent electrical changes, resulting not in thunder and lightning, but in earthquakes.  In this way, it may be presumed, the equilibrium is restored.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>The State of California is destined to become one of the richest in the Union.  Its present population is estimated at six hundred thousand.  The aborigines number about forty thousand, but diminish rapidly, and will soon disappear.  In natural resources, the State is not exceeded by any equal extent of territory in the world. The valleys and foot-hills extending from the southern to the northern limit of the State, are but a succession of inexhaustible wealth, awaiting the labor and skill of American enterprise to develop it.  Here is silver, and gold, and bread, in abundance; enough for everybody who is ready and willing to work.  The only condition imposed, is intelligent labor.  Nature has done her part, and now invites man to do his part.  There are but two serious objections to the country; one is the want of timber, and the other the want of timely rains and more living streams.  There are some places in the mountains, where red wood and pine abound, which make excellent lumber for building and fencing purposes.  The California laurel is a beautiful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:wood, receives a fine polish, and is much used for cabinet work.  Yet much of the timber is quite inaccessible, and the transportation of such as can be obtained, is exceedingly expensive.  Not a ranch or farm in the State, so far as I could see or learn, is fenced.  There are but few living springs of water.  Many of the few living streams are so impregnated with alkali, as to render the water unwholesome and dangerous for man or beast to drink.  Here and there, where a farmer can control a mountain stream, and divert its waters into small channels so as to flow his lands, he can obtain luxuriant crops of every kind, grain and fruits, in the highest perfection.  Yet, the cost of erecting plank flumes and of cutting channels, requires an outlay which but few adventurers can afford.  In some localities artesian wells have been obtained at moderate expense.  Horticulture in the vicinity of the larger towns proves to be a profitable pursuit.  The gardeners, who are devoted to growing vegetables for the market, require a regular supply of water, which they obtain from ordinary wells and elevate into tanks by a windmill pump, and then conduct it by plank flumes and earth channels through every part of their grounds.  By this means fresh vegetables and the small fruits can be grown and the towns supplied throughout the year.  The process of planting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>The periodical winds are somewhat disagreeable, and prevail a considerable portion of the year.  No fruit tree or ornamental tree can be grown without artificial irrigation and protection against the action of these prevailing winds.  You must either build high board fences to protect the trees, or plant them in some valley or on some hill-side, where they will not be exposed.  Nearly every tree in California leans in the direction of the prevailing winds.  So you can always tell "which way the wind blows," by looking at the trees, if not by observing the laws of trade.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Almost everybody here is a speculator, especially in San Francisco, where they are constantly engaged in speculating among themselves in city lots.  In fact, they have done so much at it, and at such exhorbitant rates, that they have completely shingled the city over with mortgages.  They have been stimulated by the idea that eastern capitalists, now the Pacific railway is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>In California you can regulate the climate to suit yourself.  In the valleys, it is perpetual summer.  In the mountains, you can have all the changes of the four seasons.  In one day's travel you can reach a region where it is spring, summer, fall, or winter, as you may prefer.  It is, therefore, a glorious country for invalids, as well as for people in sound health.  Here you have all the luxuries, fruits, flowers and vegetables, which either a temperate or tropical clime can produce.  What more can one wish or desire?  Yet here, as elsewhere, I believe no one is fully satisfied with his condition in life.</P>
099.sgm:<P>The Asiatics having espied out this "goodly land," are now arriving in great numbers, with a view to share its wealth and test its capabilities.  Here they say they can grow tea, silk, sugar and spices as well as in their own country.  The land is cheaper and much more fertile.  The cheap table lands they regard as admirably adapted to the silk and tea culture.  In a few years, I doubt not, the foot-hills and elevated table lands will be crowned with the tea plant and the mulberry, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
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099.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER XVI.</HEAD>
099.sgm:<P><HSEP>SAN FRANCISCO, December 7th, 1869.</P>
099.sgm:<P>It cannot be doubted that California presents more points of natural beauty and sublimity than any other part of the known world.  It abounds in marvels and originalities.  Among the principal points of interest to the tourist, are the Yosemite Valley, the Big Trees, and the Geysers.  The first is indescribable; the second incredible; and the third infernal; and yet they all actually exist.  Everybody who reads, knows as much about them as I do, and perhaps more.  Owing to the lateness of the season, I did not visit them; but have heard them described so often, by friends who have visited them, that I can readily imagine how they appear, and especially so, since these masterpieces of Nature's work have many duplicates, scarcely less magnificent, which I have seen.  Yet the Yosemite Valley will always be spoken of by tourists in a style of grandiloquence, which might induce <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>This wonderful valley may be described as ten or twelve miles long and half a mile wide, made by splitting a mountain range through the back-bone, to the depth of five or six thousand feet; then leveling the base by filling in soil and planting it with grass, shrubs and flowers, and penciling it with silver rills and rivulets that originate in outside fountains, and come dashing over the valley's rocky rim, as if their glittering currents fell direct from Heaven, creating a mist or spray resembling a bridal veil.  The valley has ever been regarded by the Indians as Nature's Sanctuary, where the Great Spirit dwells.  But now you find here several hotels, filled, in summer, with visitors, who devote themselves to sight-seeing, frolic and fun, dancing, cards and billiards.  These unsanctified intrusions on Nature's hallowed retreat, I should think, would incur her displeasure, if not shock her moral sense.</P>
099.sgm:<P>There are some twenty groves of the big trees, which have been discovered in different parts of California.  The most noted are located in Mariposa and Calaveras counties.  The largest trees are thirty-five feet in diameter, three hundred feet high, and the bark two feet thick.  A hollow one that has fallen, will admit sixteen men on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:horseback very comfortably.  In ascending its fallen trunk you have to climb a ladder forty feet long.  A few years ago a section of one of these hollow trees was shipped to London, set on end, and used as a drinking saloon.  It proved a profitable investment.  The distance from San Francisco to Yosemite and the big trees, is nearly one hundred and fifty miles, and to the Geysers, about sixty miles.  In visiting the Geysers, your moral courage will be put to the severest test.  The descent into the yawning gulf is made by a stage coach, driven by an expert, and is not only very precipitous, but hazardous.  Still no serious accident has, as yet, happened.  When you reach this "lower region," you find yourself in a narrow canyon, about half a mile long, surrounded by wizard nooks and angles of the wildest character, and standing on fiery billows that roll beneath your feet.  Scalding jets of steam ascend at a hundred different points about you, as if leaping from a caldron boiling beneath the soil.  In many places you cannot step without burning the soles of your boots.  The springs of hot and cold water are so near each other, in some localities, that you can thrust one hand into hot and the other into cold water, at the same time.  In many spots on the surface of the soil there is an issue of noxious gases, where sulphur deposits itself in considerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>Everywhere in the mountains of the Pacific Slope, you will see marked evidences of volcanic action.  The soil is red, and the rocks appear to have been subjected to intense heat, and are sometimes vitrified.  The Great Salt Lake Valley has the appearance of being the volcanic subsidence of a mountain chain--a vast crater that has been filled in with soil, abraded in the course of time from the adjoining mountains and elevated plains.  The lake occupies the central portion of the original crater, and is still growing narrower by the influx of soil.  On the sides of the mountains that encircle it, there remains a distinct water-mark, at an elevation of several hundred feet, showing, beyond a doubt, that this was, at some former period, the boundary line of its waters.  From this fact, it is evident that the lake has subsided, or that the bordering mountains have been elevated by some sudden convulsion.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Amid the lofty mountains sloping into the State of Nevada, there sleeps a lake, called Mono, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>In traveling among the Sierras, the scenes that surround you, look where you will, are grand, vast, and sublime.  It is there that Nature sits enthroned in sublimity; eloquent in her silence; pure in her sympathies; and divine in her sway.  It is there that she has lifted mountains to the skies, and sunk valleys to invisible depths.  It is there that she has buried dead rivers in mountains that were once valleys, and given birth to living rivers in valleys that were once mountains.  Her volcanoes, scattered here and there, are but the chimneys of her workshops.  The wealth of her sublime empire is not only vast, but inexhaustible.  In fact, every mountain is a bank of deposit.  Whatever she does financially, she does on a specie <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
099.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
099.sgm:<P>Throughout the Pacific Slope you will find, almost at every step, something new; something that will surprise you.  It is a region entirely unlike that of the Atlantic Slope.  In the Sierra Nevada range there are more than a hundred mountain peaks that pierce the heavens, rising, in some instances, to the height of fourteen or fifteen thousand feet.  One of the highest is Mount Shasta, a giant, that seems to recline his head, like a child, on the bosom of God.  In this mountain frame-work of California, you catch a glimpse of that great temple which was built without hands.  It is here, in these cerulean halls, that Sublimity and Beauty take their social walks, and, stooping, smile on the cradled valleys that slumber at their feet.  In some places you would think everything about you in a state of chaos.  It looks as if great masses of matter still remained on hand after the work of creation had been finished.  On entering a region of this character, my first thought was, that I had caught Nature at work in her laboratory, moulding the mountains into shape, scooping out the valleys, channeling the rivers, and planting here and there a few favorite evergreens.  I really felt as if I had blundered into her presence without rapping, or giving her an opportunity to make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>Dead rivers, as known to miners in California, are such as have been dried up and sealed up, midway, in the mountain ranges by volcanic action.  Their channels are reached by tunneling into the mountain sides, and are found to contain sand beds, worn stones, and rich deposits of gold, in the form of gold dust and nuggets.  It is said that more than half the gold mined in California, has been taken from these dead rivers.  They lie at about the same height, and have been traced hundreds of miles.</P>
099.sgm:<P>Nearly three-fourths of the population on the Pacific coast are unmarried men, who would be very glad to ennoble their manhood, if they had the opportunity.  In this connection, I might as well say as think, that if the supernumerary women of the Eastern States, who are now clamoring for their rights, would but emigrate to this golden land, they would find it not only a golden land, but would soon be able, like the Roman matron, to point to their jewels with a commendable pride, and, perhaps, realize the fact that "a curtain lecture," now and then, is vastly more effective than public lectures, in securing and preserving "woman's rights."</P>
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099.sgm:<P>And now let me say, if you want to see a new world, go to California.  You can go by rail from the Atlantic to the Pacific, in seven to eight days, running night and day, at the rate of about twenty-five miles an hour.  After the second day out, you will not tire, if you take a sleeping car; for you then become accustomed to the change; sleep well, eat well, and enjoy a kind of home-life.  The passing scenes, as you gaze from the car windows, appear like a revolving panorama, and constantly present to the eye novelties of intense interest.  You can get regular meals at the stations on the way, with the exception, perhaps, of two days, while crossing the interior mountain plains.  Even there, you may rely on getting at least one good "square meal" a day.  At some points the water is objectionable, being too alkaline to be drinkable with safety.</P>
099.sgm:<P>By taking the lightning express train, which makes the through trip once a week each way, and has a dining car attached, you will be accommodated with every "creature comfort" you could possibly desire, and would be led to think, while on the route, that you were merely boarding at a fashionable hotel, and enjoying the best of society.  Select parties, generally, prefer this train; but I should much prefer the daily express.  There is some difference in the expense, but not much in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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099.sgm:<P>If you intend to make the trip, I should advise you to take along with you a basket of lunch, a flask of brandy, and a pocket pistol.  If you have a wife, take her also; if you have none, marry at once, and make it your bridal trip.  A gentleman who is accompanied with his wife, is sure of being treated with consideration; but if he travels without a lady in charge, he must expect to be regarded as of little more consequence than so much freight.  A word to the wise ought to be sufficient.</P>
100.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-100</TITLE>
100.sgm:<TITLE>Between the gates.  By Benjamin F. Taylor:  a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
100.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
100.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
100.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
100.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
100.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
100.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
100.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>01-021580</LCCN>
100.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
100.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
100.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<illus entity="a100-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE GOLDEN GATE.</P>
100.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>BETWEEN THE GATES.</P>
100.sgm:<P>BY</P>
100.sgm:<P>BENJ. F. TAYLOR.</P>
100.sgm:<P>AUTHOR OF "SONGS OF YESTERDAY," "OLD-TIME PICTURES," "WORLD ON WHEELS," "CAMP AND FIELD," ETC.</P>
100.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">WITH ILLUSTRATIONS</HI>
100.sgm:<P>CHICAGO:</P>
100.sgm:<P>S. C. GRIGGS AND COMPANY.</P>
100.sgm:<P>1878.</P>
100.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1878,</P>
100.sgm:<P>BY S. C. GRIGGS AND COMPANY.</P>
100.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>TO</P>
100.sgm:<P>MRS. MARY SCRANTON BRADFORD,</P>
100.sgm:<P>OF CLEVELAND, OHIO,</P>
100.sgm:<P>WHOSE DAILY DEEDS OF NOBLE KINDNESS HAVE</P>
100.sgm:<P>BRIGHTENED MANY A LIFE AND BEAUTIFIED</P>
100.sgm:<P>HER OWN, THIS BOOK OF DAYS OF</P>
100.sgm:<P>SUNSHINE IS AFFECTIONATELY</P>
100.sgm:<P>INSCRIBED BY HER</P>
100.sgm:<P>RELATIVE AND FRIEND.</P>
100.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<HEAD>CONFIDENTIAL.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>THE only care-free, cloudless summer of my life, since childhood, was spent in California.  The going there was a delight, and the leaving there a regret.</P>
100.sgm:<P>This gypsy of a book has few facts and not a word of fiction; not so much as a dry fagot of statistics or a wing-feather of a fancy.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"How do you like California?" was the daily question, and to the uniform reply came the quick rejoinder: "Ah, but you should see it in the winter, for the <HI REND="italics">summer</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The writer sympathizes with any reader who misses what he seeks in this small volume, and can only soften "the winter of our discontent" by saying: Ah, but you should know "what pain it was to drown" what had to be omitted!</P>
100.sgm:<P>Perhaps we two may meet again in the groves of Los Angeles, when the oranges are in the gold and the almond blossoms shine.</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>PREFACE.<LB>OVERLAND TRAIN<HSEP>9<LB>CHAPTER I.<LB>"SET SAIL"<HSEP>21<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>FROM VALLEY TO MOUNTAIN<HSEP>28<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>WONDERLAND TO BUGLE CAN&tilde;ON<HSEP>38<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>THE DESERT, THE DEVIL AND CAPE HORN<HSEP>48<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>FROM WINTER TO SUMMER<HSEP>61<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>SAN FRANCISCO STREET SCENES<HSEP>71<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>THE ANIMAL, MAN<HSEP>81<LB>"John," the Heathen<HSEP>84<LB>"Hoodlum," the Christian<HSEP>88<LB>Picnics<HSEP>91</P>
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100.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>COAST, FORTY-NINERS AND CLIMATE<HSEP>94<LB>The Pacific Breezes<HSEP>101<LB>Weather on Man<HSEP>103<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>GOING TO CHINA<HSEP>106<LB>A Chinese Restaurant<HSEP>108<LB>"We'll All Take Tea"<HSEP>109<LB>The Joss-House and the Gods<HSEP>110<LB>"Twelve Packs in his Sleeve"<HSEP>114<LB>An Opium Den<HSEP>115<LB>The Opium-Smoker's Dream<HSEP>116<LB>"The Royal China Theatre"<HSEP>118<LB>"The Play's the Thing"<HSEP>119<LB>The Orchestra<HSEP>121<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>MISSION DOLORES AND THE SAINTS<HSEP>124<LB>The Old Graveyard<HSEP>126<LB>The Saints<HSEP>128<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>VALLEY RAMBLES AND A CLIMB<HSEP>131<LB>A Dead Lift at a Live Weight<HSEP>133<LB>On the High Seas<HSEP>140<LB>The Hog's Back<HSEP>143<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>THE GEYSERS<HSEP>146<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>THE PETRIFIED FOREST<HSEP>156</P>
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100.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>HIGHER AND FIRE<HSEP>166<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>A MINT OF MONEY<HSEP>174<LB>Aladdin's Cave<HSEP>177<LB>Is it Worth it<HSEP>180<LB>Washing-Day<HSEP>182<LB>Midas's Kitchen<HSEP>183<LB>Bricks and Hoop-Poles<HSEP>184<LB>Weighing Live Stock<HSEP>189<LB>"The Golden Dustman"<HSEP>190<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>BOUND FOR THE YO SEMITE<HSEP>192<LB>Taking a Mountain<HSEP>200<LB>A Mountain Choir<HSEP>201<LB>"The Ayes Have It"<HSEP>202<LB>Down the Mountains<HSEP>203<LB>The Big Trees<HSEP>205<LB>A Forest Ride<HSEP>209<LB>First Glimpse of the Yo Semite<HSEP>210<LB>Through the Valley<HSEP>214<LB>The Grand Register<HSEP>217<LB>El Capitan<HSEP>221<LB>The Bridal Veil<HSEP>222<LB>Mirror Lake<HSEP>224<LB>Up a Trail<HSEP>227<LB>Yo Semite Fall and Sun Time<HSEP>232<LB>Breaking up Camp<HSEP>236</P>
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100.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>WHALES, LIONS AND WAR DOGS<HSEP>240<LB>Seals<HSEP>242<LB>The Golden Gate<HSEP>245<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>A TRIP TO THE TROPIC<HSEP>249<LB>A Difficult Sunrise<HSEP>250<LB>The Tehachapi Love-Knot<HSEP>251<LB>The Mojave Desert<HSEP>254<LB>A Vegetable Acrobat<HSEP>255<LB>The Mirage<HSEP>257<LB>The City of the Angels<HSEP>259<LB>The Orange Groves<HSEP>262<LB>The Vineyards<HSEP>264<LB>"A Bee Ranch"<HSEP>266<LB>The Mission of San Gabriel<HSEP>269<LB>The Garden<HSEP>271<LB>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>KINGS OF SOCIETY<HSEP>276<LB>Latitudes<HSEP>281<LB>The Spirit of California<HSEP>283<LB>The Men and Women<HSEP>287<LB>Home Again<HSEP>291</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>OVERLAND TRAIN.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>I.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>FROM Hell Gate to Gold Gate<LB>And the Sabbath unbroken,<LB>A sweep continental<LB>And the Saxon yet spoken!<LB>By seas with no tears in them,<LB>Fresh and sweet as Spring rains,<LB>By seas with no fears in them,<LB>God's garmented plains,</HI>
100.sgm:<LB>Where deserts lie down in the prairies' broad calms,<LB>Where lake links to lake like the music of psalms.</P>
100.sgm:<P>II.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Meeting rivers bound East<LB>Like the shadows at night,<LB>Chasing rivers bound West<LB>Like the break-of-day light,<LB>Crossing rivers bound South<LB>From dead winter to June,<LB>From the marble-old snows<LB>To perennial noon--</HI>
100.sgm:<LB>Cosmopolitan rivers, Mississippi, Missouri,<LB>That travel the planet like Jordan through Jewry.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>III.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Through the kingdoms of corn,<LB>Through the empires of grain,<LB>Through dominions of forest<LB>Drives the thundering train--<LB>Through fields where God's cattle<LB>Are turned out to grass,<LB>And His poultry whirl up<LB>From the wheels as we pass;</HI>
100.sgm:<LB>Through level horizons as still as the moon,<LB>With the wilds fast asleep and the winds in a swoon.</P>
100.sgm:<P>IV.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>There's a thrill in the air<LB>Like the tingle of wine,<LB>Like a bugle-blown blast<LB>When the scimiters shine<LB>And the sky-line is broken<LB>By the Mountains Divine!<LB>Where the planet stands up<LB>Body-guard before God,<LB>And to cloud-land and glory<LB>Transfigures the sod.<LB>Ah! to see the grand forms'<LB>Magnificent lift<LB>In their sandals of daisies<LB>And turbans of drift.</HI>
100.sgm:<LB>Ah! to see the dull globe brought sublime to its feet,<LB>Where in mantles of blue the two monarchies meet,<LB>The azure of grace bending low in its place,</P>
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100.sgm:<P>And this world glancing back with a colorless face.<LB>Who marvels Mount Sinai was the State House of God?<LB>Who wonders the Sermon down old Galilee flowed?<LB>That the Father and Son each hallowed a height<LB>Where the lightnings were red and the roses were white!<LB>Oh, Mountains that lift us to the realm of the Throne,<LB>A Sabbath-day's journey without leaving our own,<LB>All day ye have cumbered and beclouded the West,<LB>Low glooming, high looming, like a storm at its best,<LB>By distance struck speechless and the thunder at rest.</P>
100.sgm:<P>V.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB> All day and all night<LB>It is rattle and clank,<LB>All night and all day<LB>Smiting space in the flank,<LB>And no token those clouds<LB>Will ever break rank.<LB>Still the engines' bright arms<LB>Are bared to the shoulder<LB>In the long level pull<LB>Till the mountains grow bolder.<LB>Ah! we strike the up grade!<LB>We are climbing the world!<LB>And it rallies the soul<LB>Like volcanoes unfurled,</HI>
100.sgm:<LB>Where it looks like the cloud that led Moses of old,<LB>And the pillar of fire born and wove in one fold<LB>From the womb and the loom of abysses untold.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>VI.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>We strike the Great Desert<LB>With its wilderness howl,<LB>With its cactus and sage,<LB>With its serpent and owl,<LB>And its pools of dead water,<LB>Its torpid old streams,<LB>The corpse of an earth<LB>And the nightmare of dreams;<LB>And the dim rusty trail<LB>Of the old Forty-nine,<LB>That they wore as they went<LB>To the mountain and mine,<LB>With graves for their milestones;<LB>How slowly they crept,<LB>Like the shade on a dial<LB>Where the sun never slept,</HI>
100.sgm:<LB>But unwinking, unblinking, from his quiver of ire<LB>Like a desolate besom the wilderness swept <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>With his arrows of fire.</HI>
100.sgm:<P>VII.<LB>Now we pull up the globe!  It is grander than flying,<LB>'Mid glimpses of wonder that are grander than dying,<LB>Through the gloomy arcades shedding winter and drift,<LB>By the bastions and towers of omnipotent lift,<LB>Through tunnels of thunder with a long sullen roar,<LB>Night ever at home and grim Death at the door.<LB><HI REND="blockindent">We swing round a headland,<LB>Ah! the track is not there!<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:It has melted away<LB>Like a rainbow in air!</HI>
100.sgm:<LB>Man the brakes!  Hold her hard!  We are leaving the world!<LB>Red flag and red lantern unlighted and furled.<LB>Lo, the earth has gone down like the set of the sun--<LB>Broad rivers unraveled turn to rills as they run--<LB>Great monarchs of forest dwindle feeble and old--<LB>Wide fields flock together like the lambs in a fold--<LB>Yon head-stone a snow-flake lost out of the sky<LB>That lingered behind when some winter went by!<LB><HI REND="blockindent">Ah, we creep round a ledge<LB>On the world's very edge,<LB>On a shelf of the rock<LB>Where an eagle might nest,<LB>And the heart's double knock<LB>Dies away in the breast--<LB></HI>
100.sgm:>We have rounded Cape Horn!  Grand Pacific, good morn!<LB></P>
100.sgm:<P>VIII.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Now the world slopes away to the afternoon sun--<LB>Steady one!  Steady all!  The down grade has begun.<LB>Let the engines take breath, they have nothing to do,<LB>For the law that swings worlds will whirl the train through.<LB>Streams of fire from the wheels,<LB>Like flashes from fountains;<LB>And the dizzy train reels<LB>As it swoops down the mountains:<LB>And fiercer and faster<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:As if demons drove tandem<LB>Engines "Death" and "Disaster!"<LB></HI>
100.sgm:From dumb Winter to Spring in one wonderful hour;<LB>From Nevada's white wing to Creation in flower!<LB>December at morning tossing wild in its might--<LB>A June without warning and blown roses at night!<LB></P>
100.sgm:<illus entity="a100-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DOUBLING CAPE HORN.</P>
100.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Above us are snow-drifts a hundred years old,<LB>Behind us are placers with their pockets of gold,<LB>And mountains of bullion that would whiten a noon,<LB>That would silver the face of the Harvesters' moon.<LB>Around us are vineyards with their jewels and gems,</HI>
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100.sgm:<P>Living trinkets of wine blushing warm on the stems,<LB><HI REND="blockindent">And the leaves all afire<LB>With the purple of Tyre.<LB>Beyond us are oceans of ripple and gold,<LB>Where the bread cast abroad rolls a myriad fold--<LB>Seas of grain and of answer to the prayer of mankind,<LB>And the orange in blossom makes a bride of the wind,<LB>And the almond tree shines like a Scripture in bloom,<LB>And the bees are abroad with their blunder and boom--<LB>Never blunder amiss, for there's <HI REND="italics">something</HI>
100.sgm: to kiss<LB>Where the flowers out-of-doors can smile in all weather,<LB>And bud, blossom and fruit grace the gardens together.<LB>Thereaway to the South, without fences and bars,<LB>Flocks freckle the plains like the thick of the stars;<LB>Hereaway to the North, a magnificent wild,<LB>With dimples of can&tilde;ons, as if Universe smiled.<LB>Ah! valleys of Vision,<LB>Delectable Mountains<LB>As grand as old Bunyan's,<LB>And opals of fountains,<LB>And garnets of landscapes,<LB>And sapphires of skies,<LB>Where through agates of clouds<LB>Shine the diamond eyes.<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>IX.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>We die out of Winter in the flash of an eye,<LB>Into Eden of earth, into Heaven of sky;<LB>Sacramento's fair vale with its parlors of God,<LB>Where the souls of the flowers rise and drift all abroad,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:As if resurrection were all the year round<LB>And the writing of Christ sprang alive from the ground,<LB>When He said to the woman those words that will last<LB>When the globe shall grow human with the dead it has clasped.<LB>Live-oaks in their orchards, rare exotics run wild,<LB>No orphan among them, each Nature's own child.<LB>Oh, wonderful land where the turbulent sand<LB>Will burst into bloom at the touch of a hand,<LB>And a desert baptized<LB>Prove an Eden disguised.<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>X.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>There's a breath from Japan<LB>Of an ocean-born air,<LB>Like the blue-water-smell<LB>In an Argonaut's hair!<LB>'Tis a carol of joy<LB>With a sweep wild and free;<LB>And the mountains deploy<LB>Round the Queen of the West,<LB>Where she sits by the sea--<LB>By the Occident sea--<LB>In her Orient vest,<LB>Babel Earth at her knee,<LB>And the heart of all nations<LB>Alive in her breast--<LB>Where she sits by the Gate<LB>With its lintels of rock,<LB>And the key in the lock--<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:By the Lord's Golden Gate,<LB>With its crystal-floored chamber,<LB>And its threshold of amber,<LB>Where encamped like a king,<LB>The broad world on the wing,<LB>Her grand will can await.<LB>Where now are the dunes,<LB>The tawny half-moons<LB>Of the sands ever drifting,<LB>Of the sands ever sifting,<LB>By the shore and the sweep<LB>Of the sea in its sleep?<LB>Where now are the tents,<LB>With their stains and their rents,<LB>All landward and seaward<LB>Like white butterflies blown?<LB>All drifted to leeward,<LB>All scattered and gone.<LB>And this uttermost post<LB>Of earth's end is the throne<LB>Of the Queen of the Coast,<LB>Who has loosened her robe<LB>And girdled the globe<LB>With her radiant zone--<LB>The throb of her pulses<LB>Has fevered the Age--<LB>She has silvered and gilded<LB>All history's page!<LB>She has spoken mankind,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:And has uttered her ships<LB>Like the eloquent words<LB>From most eloquent lips--<LB>They have flown all abroad<LB>Like the angels of God!<LB>Sails fleck the world's waters<LB>All bound for the Gate,<LB>All their bows to the Bay,<LB>Like the finger of Fate.<LB>Child of the wilderness<LB>By deserts confined,<LB>Wide waters before her,<LB>Wild mountains behind,<LB>She unlocks her treasures<LB>To the gaze of mankind.<LB>Her name is translated into each human tongue,<LB>Her fame round the curve of the planet is sung,<LB>And she thinks through its swerve<LB>By the telegraph nerve.<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>XI.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>When the leaf of the mulberry is spun into thread,<LB>Then the spinner is shrouded and the weaver is dead;<LB>And that shroud is unwound by the fingers of girls,<LB>And the films of pale gold clasp the spool as it whirls,<LB>As it ripens and rounds<LB>Like some exquisite fruit<LB>In the tropical bounds,<LB>In air sweet as a lute,<LB>Till the shroud and the tomb,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:Dyed in rainbow and bloom,<LB>Glisten forth from the loom<LB>Into garments of pride,<LB>Into robes for a bride,<LB>Into lace-woven air<LB>That an angel might wear.<LB>Ah! marvelous space<LB>'Twixt the leaf and the lace<LB>From the mulberry worm<LB>To the magical grace<LB>Of the fabric and form!<LB>Oh, Imperial State,<LB>Splendid empire in leaf,<LB>That grows grand on the way<LB>To the sky and the day,<LB>Like the coralline reef<LB>To be royally great.<LB>Dead gold is barbaric, but its threads can be woven<LB>Into harmonies fine, like the tones of Beethoven,<LB>Can be raveled and wrought<LB>Into love-knots of faith<LB>For the daughters of Ruth--<LB>Into garments of thought,<LB>Into pinions for truth--<LB>And be turned from the wraith<LB>Of a misty ideal<LB>That may vanish in night,<LB>To things royal and real<LB>That shall live out the light.<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:So the true golden days<LB>Shall be kindled at last,<LB>And this realm shall rule on<LB>When the twilights are gone,<LB>In the grandeur of truth<LB>And the beauty of youth<LB>Till long ages have passed!<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>"SET SAIL."</P>
100.sgm:<P>ON a bright Spring morning we set sail from Chicago for the Golden Gate.  Nothing on solid land is the twin of an ocean voyage but a trans-continental trip by rail.  There is a sort of " <HI REND="italics">through</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The splendid train of the Chicago and Northwestern road, that controls a line of more than three thousand miles, and traverses six states and territories, steams out of the "Garden City's" ragged edges that refine and soften away into rural scenes, and meets many a lovely village hurrying toward the town.  It rings its brazen clangor of salute.  Shrubbery and stations clear the way.  The horizons curve broadly out.  We are fairly at sea amid the rolling glory of Illinois.  The eastward world <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>And then I think of another day in the year '49, and the stormy month of March, when the tatters of white winter half-hid earth's chilly nakedness, and Euroclydon blew out of the keen East like the King's trumpeter, and a little procession of wagons was drawn up facing West on Lake street, Chicago, and daring fellows were snapping revolvers and casing rifles, and making ready for the long, dim trail through wilderness, desert and can&tilde;on, through delay, danger and darkness--a trail drawn across the continent like the tremulous writing of a deathwarrant when Mercy holds the pen.  The horses' heads were toward the sunset, and the stalwart boys were ready, the gold-seekers of the early day.  There were women on the sidewalks, there were children lifted in men's stout arms that might never clasp them more.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The captain gave the word, and the cavalcade drew slowly out, the last canvas-covered wain dwindled to an ant's white egg, and the pioneers were gone; gone into a silence as profound as the grave's.  Spring should come and go, June should shed its roses, autumn roll its golden sea and break into the barn's broad bays in the hightides of abundance; the winter fires should glow again, and yet no word from the Argonauts, no lock from the Golden Fleece of the new-found El Dorado of the farthest West.  Ah, the weary waitings, the hopes deferred, the letters soiled and wrinkled and old, that crept by returning trains, or doubled the Cape or crossed the Isthmus, that the readers thanked God for and took courage, because the writers were not dead last year.</P>
100.sgm:<P>And now it is a six days' sweep as on wings of eagles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Omaha goes between wind and water, a bad region for a solid shot to strike a ship, but a good thing for a town.  It was the base of supplies for the bearded mountain-men who bundled their furs down to the river.  It was the point of departure for the Pike's Peakers and the caravans "Frisco"-bound.  It has hot water on both sides of it, from ocean to ocean.  It has cold water, such as it is, "slab and good," like witches' broth, in the Missouri that, allied with the Mississippi, flows from the regions of the rude North, <HI REND="italics">up</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The bridge over the Missouri, swung in the air like a rainbow with no colors in it, and almost three thousand feet long, is a great gateway to the West.  It has triumphed over the uneasiest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Fort Calhoun, some two hours' drive up the river from Omaha, is the point whence Lewis and Clark set forth, seventy-three years ago, into a wilderness that howled, and discovered that great watery trident of the Columbia, and named it Lewis, Clark and Multnomah.  A while ago I visited the Fort, and the stump of the flag-staff yet remained whence the old colors drifted out in the morning light, when the Discoverers set forth.  In <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
100.sgm: day the Fort stood on the river's bank, and in case of investment from the landward side, water could be drawn up in buckets from the Missouri, and so they wet their throats and kept their powder dry.  In <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The Union Pacific train is just ready to move out.  The bright-hued cars of the Northwestern are succeeded by the soberly-painted coaches of the Union Pacific.  They have taken the tint of ocean-going steamers.  Men and women are bundling aboard with bags and baskets.  The spacious Depot is thronged with crowds in motley wear.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<illus entity="a100-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE LOGIC OF IT</P>
100.sgm:<P>Here, a Norwegian sits upon a knapsack colored like an alligator, his leather breeches polished as a razorstrap, and his hair gone to seed.  There, an Indian with his capillary midnight flowing down each side of his oleaginous face, as if he had <HI REND="italics">ambushed</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Yonder, a pair of Saxons just escaped from a bandbox, fit for the shady side side of Broadway, but not for the long trail.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Now, an Englishman in tweed, and sensible shoes with soles as thick as a shortcake, an inevitable white hat, and a vest that nobody would think of asking him to "pull down," for a little more waistcoat, and pantaloons could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The Depot bubbles and boils like a caldron.  The engine backs, clanging down with a cloud and a rush.  People climb on and climb off the laden cars crazier than ever.  They are giving old ladies a lift from behind.  They are tugging up carpet-bags like cats with their last kittens.  They are all colors with excitement and hurry.  It strikes you queerly that everybody is going, and nobody is staying.  The demon of unrest is the reigning king.  "Long live the king!" for life is motion.  Still life is death's first cousin.  A Babel of trunks is surging toward the baggage-cars.  Trucks are piled like dromedaries.  There's the Saratoga that might be lived in if it only had a chimney, and the iron-bound chest of the mistletoe-bough tragedy, and the dapper satchel as sleek and black as a wet mink, and the little brindled hair-trunk with its brazen lettering of nail-heads, and the canvas sack as rusty as an elephant.  And so they tumble aboard with an infinite jingle of checks; an acrobatic, jolly troop, the heart's delight of the trunk-makers.  You see your own property, bought new for the occasion, rolling over and over corner-wise like a possessed porpoise.  Alas, for any pigments or unguents or dilutions or perfumes that may break loose in that somerset, and make colored maps of the five continents upon your wedding vest or your snowy wrapper.  Last, the leathern purses of the United States Mail fly from the red wagons like chaff from a fanning-mill.  The engine's steam and impatience are blown off in a whistle together.  It spits <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>And amid the whirl of the Maelstrom--for if Norway has none, at least Omaha has one--there are only two living things that are quiet and serene.  The one is a youthful descendant of Ham, with a heel like the head of a clawhammer--five claws instead of a pair -- lying on a truck upon a stomach that, like an angleworm's, pervades the whole physical man, and the descendant turned up at both ends, like a rampant mud-turtle, his mouth full of ivory and his eyes round with content.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The other is the "last man"--not Montgomery's, but an earlier product--that man in gray, in a silk cap, and taking lazy whiffs at a cigar that has about crumbled to ashes.  He is as calm as the Sphinx, but neither so grand nor so grim.  He is going to San Francisco when--the <HI REND="italics">train</HI>
100.sgm:<P>At last the conductor gives the word "All aboard!" signals the engineer who has been leaning with his head over his shoulder, the bell lurches from side to side with a clang, your last man gives his cigar a careless toss and swings himself upon the rear platform, and the train with its black banners and white flung aloft pulls out, and we are off for the plains and the deserts, and the gorges and the mountains, and the Western sea.</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>FROM VALLEY TO MOUNTAIN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>IF a man cannot stay at home, traveling in a Pullman palace car is the most like staying there of anything in the world.  It takes about an hour to get settled in a train bound for a five days' voyage, and some people <HI REND="italics">never</HI>
100.sgm:<P>When people leave Omaha for the West they usually have eyes for nothing but the scenery.  There was one man in our car who kept his nose in a book, like a pig's in a trough, and he had never traveled the route, and he was a tourist!  An asylum for idiots ought to seem like home to him!</P>
100.sgm:<P>The sun was borrowed from an Easter-day.  The air <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:is transparent.  The willows show the green.  The meander of emerald on the hillsides paints the route of the water-courses.  We are overtaking the Spring.  Behind us, Winter was begging at the door.  The trees were as dumb as an obelisk.  Around us are tokens of May and whispers of June.  You are turning into a <HI REND="italics">cuckoo</HI>
100.sgm: --Logan's cuckoo; not General Logan, of the Boys in Blue, nor Logan, the last of his race, who used dolefully to say in the declamation of our boyhood, "not a drop of my blood flows in the veins of any living creature," but Logan the poet, who apostrophized the bird, "Companion of the Spring," and said:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Sweet bird, thy bower is ever green,<LB>Thy sky is ever clear,<LB>There is no sadness in thy song,<LB>No winter in thy year!"<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>We strike the bottom lands of Nebraska, as rich as Egypt.  We are following the trail of Lewis and Clark, for here is a stream they christened <HI REND="italics">Papilion</HI>
100.sgm:, from the clouds of butterflies, those "winged flowers" that blossomed in the air as they went.  The men are gone, but the breath of a name remains.  Sixty miles from Omaha, and no sign of wilderness.  Towns, farms, rural homes--I confess to a covert feeling of disappointment.  I expected to be knocked in the head with the hammer of admiration upon the anvil of sublimity right away.  We have entered the great Valley of the Platte, the old highway of the emigrants, who paid fearful toll as they went.  The world widens out into one of the grandest plains you ever beheld, and in the midst of it, lying flat as a whipped spaniel, is the Platte, a river that burrows sometimes like a prairie dog, and runs under ground like a mole, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:and sometimes broadens into a sea that can neither be forded or navigated--a river as lawless as the Bedouins.  It would not be so much of a misnomer to rechristen it the <HI REND="italics">Flat</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Clouds fly low in the Valley of the Platte, and thunder-storms have the right of way.  It was wearing toward sundown when great leaden clouds with white edges showed in the route of the train.  They looked like a solid wall with irregular seams of mortar, built up from earth to heaven.  Then the wind came out of the wall, and the careening cars hugged the left-hand rail, and the hail played tattoo upon the dim windows, and the engine "slowed," for we were running in the teeth of the storm, and darkness fell down on the Valley like a mantle.  The lightning hung all about in tangled skeins, like Spanish moss from the live-oaks, and played like shuttles of fire between heaven and earth, carrying threads of white and red, as if it were weaving a garment of destruction.  There were evidently but two travelers in the Valley, the storm and the train.  And the thunder did not go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:lowing and bellowing about like the bulls of Bashan, as it does among the Catskills and the Cumberlands, but it crashed short and sharp, like shotted guns, that have a <HI REND="italics">meaning</HI>
100.sgm:<P>There was a young lady in our car, California-born, who was returning home from an Eastern visit.  She had never heard the thunder nor seen the lightning in all her life.  She had lived in a cloudless land of everlasting serenity.  The pedal-bass of the skies and the opening and shutting of the doors up aloft filled her with alarm, and when the storm died down to great fitful sighs, the lightest heart in all the train was her own.</P>
100.sgm:<P>We had hoped to see a prairie-fire somewhere on the way, if only it would not harm any body or thing--one of those flying artilleries of flame that sweep the plains in close order from rim to rim of the round world, but we were only indulged with a rehearsal.  Just before the storm a fringe of fire showed in the Northwest, like an arc of the horizon in flames.  It was as if Day, getting ready for bed, had trimmed it with a valance of fire; but it was "out," like Shakspeare's "brief candle," under the weight of the tempest.</P>
100.sgm:<P>We go to supper at Grand Island in sheets, like so many unbound books, albeit they were sheets of rain, and it was pleasant to get back to the lighted car, with its homelike groups and its summer hum of talk.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The steady <HI REND="italics">clink-it-e-clank</HI>
100.sgm:<P>It is not usual for anybody to get up in the morning higher than he went to bed at night, but if you sleep from Grand Island and supper to Sidney and breakfast, you will have slept yourself more than two thousand feet higher than the sea level when you gave that pillow its last double and fell asleep.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The morning is splendid, and everybody is on the alert.  " <HI REND="italics">Prairie dogs</HI>
100.sgm:!" cries some watchful lookout, and every window frames as many eager faces as it will hold.  And there, to be sure, they are; the fat, rollicking, sandy dogs, as big as exaggerated rats, but with tails of their own.  They sit up straight as tenpins and watch the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:train.  Their fore paws hang down from the wrists in a deprecating, mock-solemn way, as if they had just washed their hands of you, and said, "There they are; more of them; jogging along to California."  They fling up a pair of heels and dive into their holes.  They appear as much at home on one end as the other.  Travelers say they bark at the trains, but they didn't bark at ours, unless they "roared us gently."  Soon there is another cry of " <HI REND="italics">Antelope</HI>
100.sgm:!" and again the car is in commotion.  There the graceful fellows are, showing the white feather behind, as they dash off a little way, then turn and look at us with lifted head, then bound down the little hollows and out of sight.  Prairie dogs and antelopes, in their native land, were better than two consolidated menageries at the East.  To the <HI REND="italics">tame</HI>
100.sgm: passengers of the party, whereof this writer was one, there was a wilderness flavor about it quite strange and delightful.  But there was a couple on board, a British lion and his mate, that never ventured an eye on the picture.  They were Bible people, for "their strength was in sitting still," and in <HI REND="italics">keeping</HI>
100.sgm: still withal.  The lion parted his hair in the middle, and his eyebrows were arched into the very Gothic of superciliousness.  Escaped from the sound of Bow Bells, he was a cockney at large, and of all poultry an <HI REND="italics">exclusive</HI>
100.sgm: cockney is the cheapest.  The figure is a little mixed, but then there was a gallinaceous strain in<illus entity="a100-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"Leo the Lion".</P>
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100.sgm:<P>There is a mightier lift to the land.  The bluffs and peaks begin to rise in the distance.  The horizon is scolloped around as if some cabinet-maker had tried to dove-tail earth and sky together.  To eyes that have looked restfully upon the rank green pastures of the East, these billowy sweeps of tawny landscape seem just the grazing that Pharaoh's lean kine starved upon, but they are really in about the finest grass country in America.  Watch those dots on the hillsides at the right.  They are sheep, and there are thousands if there is so much as one "Mary's little lamb."  Those spots on the distant left, like swarms of bees, will develop, under the field-glass, into herds of "the cattle upon a thousand hills."</P>
100.sgm:<P>We are pulling up the world, and away to the North, like thunder-heads at anchor, rise the sullen ranges of the Black Hills, a glimpse or two of surly Alps.  The first snow-shed is in sight.  It looks like an old rope-walk slipped down the mountain on a land-slide, and we rumble through it while the unglazed windows wink day-light at us in a sinister way that is new, but not nice.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The first glimpse of Winter watching the world from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>They say I shall see grander mountains, but that day and that scene will be bright in my memory as the hour and the picture of perfect purity and peace.</P>
100.sgm:<P>I think of other eyes than mine--weary eyes--that brightened as they caught sight of that December in the sky.  I think of the caravans of the long ago; of the heroes of the trail; of the oxen that swung slowly from side to side in their yokes, as if, like pendulums, they would never advance; of the days they traveled toward the Peak that never seemed to grow nearer, like a star in far heaven.  And I see at the right of the train the old trail they wore, and the years vanish away, and the camp-fires of the cactus and grass are twinkling again, and I lie down beside them under the sky that is naked and strange, and I hear the cayote's wild cry and the alarms of the night.</P>
100.sgm:<P>An untraveled man's idea of a mountain is of a tremendous, heaven-kissing surge of rock, earth and snow, rolling up at once from the dull plain like a tenth wave of a breaker, and fairly taking your breath away.  But a mountain range grows upon you gradually.  It somehow gets under your feet before you know it, until the tingling sweep of the light air startles you with the truth that you are above the world.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>Here is an apparent plain, but in twenty miles you begin to encounter the globe's rough weather again.  The tandem engines, panting and pulling together like a perfect match, labor up the Black Hills.  The dimples of valleys are green as emeralds.  The rugged heights are tumbled thick with gray granite, and sprinkled with dwarfs of pines that stand timidly about as if at a loss what to do next.  A round eight thousand feet above the sea, where water boils with slight provocation, and you begin to feel a little as if you had swallowed a balloon just as they made ready to inflate it, and the process went on, and you are at Sherman.  It is the highest altitude the engine reaches between the two oceans.  Strange that the skill of a civil engineer can teach a locomotive how to fly without wings; can <HI REND="italics">wile</HI>
100.sgm: it up by <HI REND="italics">zigzags</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The train halted, and everybody disembarked, much as Noah's live cargo might have done on Ararat.  We wanted to set foot on the solid ground at high tide like the sea, but we all discovered that it took a great deal of air to do a little breathing with.  Nothing was disdained for a souvenir.  Pebbles that little David would have despised were picked up and pocketed, and one of the party, more fortunate than the rest--it was the writer's <HI REND="italics">alter ego</HI>
100.sgm: --found a dainty little horseshoe on that tip-top of railroad things in North America, and bore it cheerfully away--for doesn't it make us witch and wizard proof?  We accepted it as a good omen, but who wore it?  Perhaps the winged horse, Pegasus, made a landing there and cast a shoe--if he was ever shod.  Sherman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Beyond the hemlock shadows of the spruce pine and the scraggy ridges, where giants played "jack-stones" when giants were, seventy miles away to the South, glitters Pike's Peak, whose name was inked across many a canvas-covered wain in the old time, and whose cold and deathless light has kindled ardor in many a toiler's tired heart.  Long's Peak, to the west of it, and three days' journey off as the mules go, is near us still.</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>WONDERLAND TO BUGLE CAN&tilde;ON.</P>
100.sgm:<P>TO get away from great mountains in white cloaks is about as difficult as to escape from the fixed stars.  We travel all day with ridges of snow on our left, billowing away into magnificent ocean scenery, as if the Arctic had been lashed into foaming fury, and then frozen to death with all its icebergs, drifts and can&tilde;ons imperishable as adamant.  They were thirty miles away, yet so distinct and clear-cut against the blue, so palpably present as seen through air that might blow on the plains of Heaven unforbidden, that almost anybody on the train fancied he could walk near enough to make a snowball before breakfast!  This mountain atmosphere is a perpetual illusion.  Among these gorges are those graceful cats with the long stride, to whom men are mice, the mountain lions--you will see a pair of them caged at the next station--and here are those huge but rather amiable and aromatic brutes, the cinnamon bears, the blondes among the bruins.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The train works its way between the Black Hills and the Rockies, and you half fancy, as you watch the silent plunge-down of their shaggy sides, and the gloomy gorges, and the inaccessible crags, that the grizzlies must have been born of mountains, not of bears.  You can hardly realize that those monstrous dromedaries of hills, those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Among those sombre hills the thunders have their nests, and when the broods come off, as they do sometimes, five at once, the flapping of their wings is something to be remembered.  Think of five thunder-storms let loose in the air together, all distinctly outlined like men-of-war!</P>
100.sgm:<P>Nature has its compensations, and so you are not surprised to know that rainbows are about two fingers broader here than they are in the East, and the colors deeper and brighter.  There is no lack of material for making those gorgeous old seals of the covenant.   But I did not see enough ribbon of a bow to make a girl's necktie, nor hear thunder enough to stock a Fourth-of-July oration.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Before setting out for the Golden Coast, I thought a young earthquake would be pleasant to write about, and there is the Bohemian instinct.  I have changed my mind.  People who are acquainted with them tell me that no novice needs an introduction when he experiences one of those planetary ague-thrills.  He knows it as well as if he had been rocked in the same cradle and brought up with an earthquake all his life.  It jars his ideas of earthly stability all to pieces.  Who is it says that the globe is swung by a golden chain out from the throne of God, and that sometimes a careless angel on some errand bound, just touches that chain with the tip of his long wings, and it vibrates through all its links, and so we have the little shiver men call earthquake?  I fancy that writer regarded the phenomenon through the longrange telescope of sentimental poetry.  "Let us have peace."</P>
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100.sgm:<P>The tribes and nations of bright-hued flowers everywhere are wonderful to behold.  No chasm so dark, no mountain so rude, that these fearless children of Eden are not there.  They smile back at you with their quaint faces from rugged spots where a Canada thistle would have a tug for its life.  They ring blue-bells at you.  They salute you with whole belfries of pink and purple chimes.  They swing in delicate necklaces from grim rocks.  They flare like little flames in unexpected places.  You see old favorites of the household magnified and glorified almost beyond recognition.  It is as if a poor little aster should full like the moon and be a dahlia.  The inmates of the Eastern conservatories are running about wild, like children freed from school.  And it does not look effeminate to see a broad-breasted, wrinkled rock with a live posy in its button-hole.  I think every human bosom, however rude and rough, has some sweet little flower of thought or memory or affection that it wears and cherishes, though no man knows it.  Let us have charity.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Hark!  There is nothing to hear!  The engines run as still as your grandmother's little wheel with her foot on the treadle.  The tandem team is holding its breath a little.  It is not exactly <HI REND="italics">facilis est descensus Averni</HI>
100.sgm:, but in plain talk we are going down hill.  We are making for the Laramie Plains.  They open out before us into four thousand square miles of wild pasture.  They sweep from the Black Hills to the range of the Medicine Bow.  Where are your Kohinoors, your "mountains of light," now?  Yonder are the gorgeous Sultans, the Diamond Peaks cut by the great Lapidary of the Universe.  And yet they <HI REND="italics">may</HI>
100.sgm: be tents, those radiant cones, pitched by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:celestial shepherds on that lofty height.  Did ever earthly pastures have such regal watch and ward?  See there, away beyond the jeweled encampment, where the Snowy Range lifts into the bright air, as if it were a ghostly <HI REND="italics">echo</HI>
100.sgm:<P>All the country is rich in mineral wealth as a thousand government mints.  The Bank of England, "the Old Lady of Threadneedle street," could lay the very foundations of her building upon a specie basis should she move it hither.  Those suspicious holes far up the mountain sides and away down in the valleys, with their chronic yawn of darkness, are not the burrows of bears nor the dens of beclawed and bewhiskered creatures that make night hideous with complaint.  They are the entrances to mines of gold, silver, copper, lead and cinnabar.  Cinnabar is the red-faced mother of white quicksilver, but she has a ruddy daughter that inherits the family complexion.  You have seen her on sweeter kissing places than these rude mountain heights.  She shows at times upon a woman's cheek, and her name is Vermilion.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You see all along, ruined castles, solitary towers, triumphal columns, dismantled battlements, broken arches, some red as with perpetual sunset, and some gray with the grime of uncounted years.  At the mouth of that can&tilde;on, far up the crags, stands a Gibraltar of desolation, a speechless city where no smokes pillar to the skies, no wheels jar the rocky streets, no banners float from minaret or dome.  It is the city of No-man's-land.  Its builders are the volcanic blacksmiths.  How the forges roared and glowed to make it!  Its sculpture is the work of frost and rain and time.  It has been founded a thousand years.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>The coarse bunches of buffalo grass dot the plains here and there.  A mule would carry his ears at "trail arms" if it were offered him for breakfast, but it is sweet to the raspy tongues of the beef-cattle of the wilderness.  It is the buffalo's correlative: first the grass, then the beast.  Where are the stately herds, fronted like the curly-headed god of wine or the Numidian lion, that in columns myriad strong trampled out ground-thunder as they marched?  Gone to gratify the greed of lawless butchers who turned a ton of beef into a vulture's dinner for the sake of a dozen pounds of tongue.  Cowper's man who shot the trembling hare was a prince to such fellows.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Sage-brush has the freedom of the desert, highland and lowland.  You see its clumps of green everywhere.  It is the rank seasoning, the summer- <HI REND="italics">un</HI>
100.sgm:<P>By Point of Rocks, where stand the columns of the American Parthenon, four hundred feet high, a thousand feet in the air, and grander than any Grecian ruin that ever crumbled; over Green river, lighted up by its fine green shale McAdam as an old pasture brightens in May; through clefts where rock and ridge run riot; sunless gorges where crags frown down upon the train from the top of the sky; swinging from cliff to cliff, as spiders float <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Through a gate in the Wahsatch Mountains we plunge into Echo Can&tilde;on and Utah together; Utah, the tenth sovereignty on our route from New York; Utah, Turkey the second, and the land of harems--much as if you should bind up a leaf or two of the Koran with the books of Moses--a region where the Scripture is reversed, and one man lays hold of seven women.  You look to see the red fez and the Turkish veil, and you <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Yonder, in a row before a house with three doors, sit a man and three women, and around them a group of children of assorted lengths, like the strings of David's harp.  Here, for the first time, I see a Mormon store with its sanctimonious sign.  It almost seems to talk through its nose at you with the twang that often issues from an empty head and seldom from a full heart, and it whines these words: "Holiness to the Lord"--here the picture <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The train is just swinging around a bold battlement of rock, beside which Sir Christopher Wren's St. Paul's would be nothing more than the sexton's cottage.  You see at its base a well-worn wagon-road, that looks enough like a bit of an old New York thoroughfare to be an emigrant.  It is the stage road and trail of the elder time.  You catch a glimpse of irregular heaps of stone piled upon the edge of the precipice five hundred feet aloft.  They are the solid shot of the Mormon artillery.  Twenty years ago, when the United States troops were marching to Salt Lake, with inquisitive bayonets, curious to know whether the Federal Government included the heathendom as well as the Christendom of the United States, they must pass by that rugged throat of a road, and under the frown of the mountain, and here the Nauvoo Legion proposed to crush them with a tempest of rock, but the army halted by the way and the ammunition remains.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The train seems hopelessly bewildered.  It makes for a mountain wall eight hundred feet high, just doubles it by a hand's-breadth, sweeps around a curve, plunges into a gorge that is so narrow you think it must strangle itself if it swallows the train; red rocks everywhere huge as great thunder-clouds touched by the sun, and big enough for the kernel of such a baby planet as Mars; monuments, graven by the winds; terraces, along whose mighty steps the sun goes up to bed; the glow of his crimson sandal on the topmost stair, and it is twilight in the valley and midnight in the gorge.  It is a fearful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>If you want to reduce yourself to a sort of human duodecimo, handy to carry in the pocket, you can effect the abridgment as you make the plunge with bated breath into the can&tilde;on.  It is a splendid day, old Herbert's sky above and a Titanic carnival below.  Echo Can&tilde;on, where voices answer voice from cliff and wall and chasm, and talk all around the jagged and gnarled and crushed horizon.  Just the place for Tennyson's bugle;<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The splendor falls on castle walls,<LB>And snowy summits old in story--"<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>and here is Castle Rock, with its red lintels and its gray arches, and the mighty Cathedral that no man has builded, with its sculptures and its towers; and yonder is the Pulpit, ten thousand tons of stone heaved up a hundred feet into the air, where Gog and Magog might stand and be pigmies; and there are the white lifts of the Wahsatch Range:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The long light shakes across the lakes,<LB>And the wild cataract leaps in glory.<LB>Blow, bugle, blow, set the wild echoes flying,<LB>Blow, bugle; answer, echoes, dying, dying, dying.<LB>"O, hark, O hear! how thin and clear,<LB>And thinner, clearer, farther going!<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:O, sweet and far from cliff and scar<LB>The horns of Elfland faintly blowing!<LB>Blow, let us hear the purple glens replying:<LB>Blow, bugle; answer, echoes, dying, dying, dying--"</HI>
100.sgm:<P>and here are glen and cliff, and here is Elfland.  The engine gives a single scream, and airy trains are answering from crag and crown, from gulf and rock, as if engines had turned eagles and taken wing from a hundred mountain eyries.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O love, they die in yon rich sky,"<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>and here is that same sky above us, affluent with the flowing gold of the afternoon sun; an unenvious sky that lets you look through into heaven itself; an ethereal azure like the glance of a blue-eyed angel;<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"They faint on hill, on field, on river;"<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>and here beside us the Weber River rolls rejoicing, and the hills are not casting their everlasting shadows upon us like the veil of the temple that could not be rent.  And then come the last lines, that, thanks unto God, are true the world over:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"<HI REND="italics">Our</HI>
100.sgm: echoes roll from soul to soul,<LB>And grow forever and forever.<LB>Blow, bugle, blow, set the wild echoes flying,<LB>And answer, echoes, answer, dying, dying, dying."<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>Let the lyric be known as the Song of Echo Can&tilde;on.  In my memory the twain will be always one.</P>
100.sgm:<P>This being afraid of a motionless rock when there is no more danger of its falling than there is of the moon crushing your hat in, is a new feeling, and yet it is an emotion akin to fear.  So vast, so rude, so <HI REND="italics">planetary</HI>
100.sgm: in magnitude, such ghostly and ghastly and unreal shapes, you fancy some enchantment holds strange beings locked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>THE DESERT, THE DEVIL AND CAPE HORN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"THE Thousand-mile Tree!"  So cried everybody.  There it stands beside the track, with its arms in their evergreen sleeves spread wide in perennial greeting.  A thousand miles from Omaha and twenty-five hundred from New York.  No stately tree with a Mariposa ambition, yet, after the Oak of the Charter and the Elm of the Treaty, few on the continent are worthier of historic fame.  Forty years ago, defended round about by two thousand miles of wilderness, a wilderness as broad as the face of the moon at the full!  To-day it is almost like the tree of knowledge, "in the midst of the garden."  The articulate lightnings run to and fro upon their single rail, almost within reach of its arms, from Ocean to Ocean.  Hamlets and cities make the transit of the wilderness like Venus crossing the sun.  Millions of eyes shall look upon it with a sentiment of affection.  It stands in its vigorous life for the Thousandth Milepost on the route of Empire.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Why so many grand things in the Far West go to the Devil by default nobody knows.  I think it high time he proved his title.  Thus, "Devil's Gate" names a Gothic pass in the cleft mountains, through which, between rocky portals lifting up and up to the snow-line, the mad and crested waters of the Weber River plunge in tumultuous crowds.  They seem a forlorn hope <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:storming some tremendous Ticonderoga.  "The Devil's Slide" is a Druidical raceway seven hundred feet up on the mountain side, twelve feet wide, pitched at an angle of fifty degrees, and dry as a powder-house.  It is bounded by parallel blocks of granite lifted upon their edges, and projecting from the mountain from twenty to forty feet.  A ponderous piece of work, but who was the stone-mason?  Instead of being a slide, it seems to me about such a <illus entity="a100-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THOUSAND-MILE TREE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>At Ogden we take the Silver Palace-cars of the Central Pacific.  Let nobody forget what toil, danger, privation, death and clear grit it cost to bring the twenty miles an hour within human possibilities; that everything from a pound of powder and a pickax to a railroad bar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The level rays of the setting sun glorified the scene as we steamed out a few miles, until at our left, a sea of glass, lay the Great Salt Lake, a fishless sea, and as full of things in " <HI REND="italics">um</HI>
100.sgm: " as an old time Water Cure used to be of isms, with its calcium, magnesium and sodium.  A man cannot drown in it comfortably.  No decent bird will swim in it.  If Jonah, the runaway minister, had been pitched into it, that lake would have tumbled him ashore before he had time to take lodgings at the sign of "The Whale."  It absolutely rejects everything but something in " <HI REND="italics">um</HI>
100.sgm:."  It ought to be the " <HI REND="italics">dulce domum</HI>
100.sgm: " for Lot's wife.  Everybody passes Promontory Point in the night, the memorable spot where, on that May day, 1869, the East and the West were wedded, and the blows that sent home the spikes of silver and gold securing the last rail in the laurel were repeated by lightning at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Tally Eleven!  We are in Nevada, eleventh sovereignty from the Atlantic seaboard.  We have struck the Great American Desert.  I wish I could give, with a few brief touches, the scenery of the spreads of utter desolation, strangely relieved by glimpses of valleys of clover that smell of home, and conjure up the little buglers of the dear East, that in their black and buff trimmed uniforms and their rapiers in their coat-tail pockets, used to campaign it over the fields of white clover where we all went Maying; sights of little islands of bright greenery, as at Humboldt, as much the gift of irrigation as Egypt is of the Nile; great everlasting clouds of mountains, tipped as to their upper edges with snow as with an eternal dawn; patches ghastly white with alkali as if earth were a leper, and yellow with sulphur as if the brimstone fire of the Cities of the Plain had been raining here, and salt had been sown and the ground accursed forever.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Tumble in upon these alkali plains a few myriads of the buffalo that have been wantonly slaughtered, and with the steady fire of the unwinking, unrelenting, lidless sun that glares down upon the dismal scene as if he would like to stare it out of existence, you would have the most stupendous <HI REND="italics">soap-factory</HI>
100.sgm: in the universe, to which the establishments of the Colgates and the Babbitts would be as insignificant as the little inverted conical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:leach of our grandmothers, wherewith they did all the <HI REND="italics">lyeing</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Fancy an immense batch of wheaten dough hundreds of miles across, wet up, perhaps, before Columbus discovered America, permeating and discoloring and tumefying in the sun through five centuries; strown with careless handfuls of salt and sprinkles of mustard, and garnished, like the mouth of a roasted pig, with parsley-looking sage-brush, and tufts of withered grass, and rusty cactuses, and veins of dead water sluggish as postprandial serpents; and whiffs of hot steam from fissures in the unseemly and ill-omened mass; a corpse of a planet weltering and sweltering, with whom gentle Time has not yet begun; no May to quicken it, no June to glorify it, no Autumn to gild it.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Then fancy all this in a huge basin whose red and rusty rim, broken and melted out of shape, you see here and there in the northern horizon--fancy all this, and yet there is nothing but "the sight of the eyes" that will "affect the heart."  Miners and mountain men have been lavishly liberal in giving things to the Devil.  If he <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
100.sgm:<P>You will take notice that in this description of waste places I have not mentioned Tadmor nor alluded to Thebes.  A man cannot very well be reminded of things he never saw; neither have I quoted anything from Ossian about lonely foxes and disconsolate thistles waving in the wind.  All these things have been mentioned once or twice, and the American Desert needs no foreign importations of Fingals to make it poetically horrible.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>You have gone over it in a palace.  You have eaten from tables that would be banquets in the great centres of civilization.  You have slept upon a pleasant couch "with none to molest or make you afraid."  You have drank water tinkling with ice like the chime of sleighbells in a winter night--water brought from mountains fifteen, twenty, thirty miles away.  You have retired without weariness and risen without anxiety.  Now, I want you to remember the men and women without whom there would be nothing worth seeing that could be seen, on the Pacific Slope; the men and women who crossed these plains in wagons whose very <HI REND="italics">wheels</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Tally Twelve!  Twelfth empire from the Atlantic.  Less than three hundred miles from the Pacific.  We are in California--the old Spanish land of the fiery furnace.  The turbaned mountains rise to the right, and the dark cedars and pines in long lines single file, like Knight Templars in circular cloaks, seem marching up the heights.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You feel, somehow, that though not a pine-needle vibrates, the wind must be "blowing great guns," so to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:ruffle up and chafe the solid world.  Across ravines that sink away to China like a man falling in a nightmare, and then the swooning chasms suddenly swell to cliffs and heights gloomy with evergreens and bright with Decembers that never come to Christmas, the train pursues its assured way like a comet.  It circles and swoops and soars and vibrates like a sea-eagle when the storm is abroad.  Mingled feelings of awe, admiration and sublimity possess you.  Sensations of flying, falling, climbing, dying, master you.  The sun is just rising over your left shoulder.  It touches up the peaks and towers of ten thousand feet, till they seem altars glowing to the glory of the great God.  You hold your breath as you dart out over the gulfs, with their dizzy samphire heights and depths.  You exult as you ride over a swell.  Going up, you expand.  Coming down, you shrink like the kernel of a last year's filbert.  We are in the Sierras Nevada!  The teeth of the glittering saws with their silver steel of everlasting frost cut their way up through the blue air--up to the snow-line--up to the <HI REND="italics">angel</HI>
100.sgm:<P>It was day an instant ago, and now it is dark night.  The train has burrowed in a tunnel to escape the speechless magnificence.  It is roaring through the snow-sheds.  It is rumbling over the bridges.  Who shall say to these breakers of sod and billows of rock, "Peace, be still!" and the tempest shall be stayed and the globe shall be at rest?</P>
100.sgm:<P>And all at once a snow-storm drives over your head.  The air is gray with the slanting lines of the crazy, sleety drift.  Some mountain gale that never touches the lower world, but, like a stormy petrel, is forever on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>You think you have climbed to the crown of the world, but lo, there, as if broke loose from the chains of gravitation, "Alps on Alps arise."  Look away on and on, at the white undulations to the uttermost verge of vision, as if a flock of white-plumed mountains had taken wing and flown away.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A chaos of summers and winters and days and nights and calms and storms is tumbled into these gulches and gorges and rugged seams of scars.  Rocks are poised midway gulfward that awaken a pair of perpetual wonders: how they ever came to stop, and how they ever got under way.  With such momentum they never should have halted: with such inertia they never should have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Do you remember the old covered bridges that used to stand with their feet in the streams like cows in mid-summer, and had little windows all along for the fitful checkers of light?  Imagine those bridges grown to giants, from five hundred to two thousand feet long, and strong as a fort.  Imagine some of them bent into immense curves that, as you enter, dwindle away in the distance like the inside of a mighty powder-horn, and then lay forty-five miles of them zigzag up and down the Sierras and the Rockies, and wherever the snow drifts wildest and deepest, and you have the snow-sheds of the mountains, without which the cloudy pantings of the engines would be as powerless as the breath of a singing sparrow.  They are just bridges <HI REND="italics">the other side up</HI>
100.sgm:.  They are made to lift the white winter and shoulder the avalanche.  But you can hardly tell how provoking they are sometimes, when they clip off the prospect as a pair of shears snips a thread, just as a love of a valley or a dread of a can&tilde;on, or something deeper or grander or higher or ruder catches your eye, "Out, brief candle!" and your sight is extinguished in a snow-shed.  But why complain amid these wonders because you have to <HI REND="italics">wink</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Summit Station is reached, with its sky parlors, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:grand Mount Lincoln, from whose summit it is two miles "plumb down" to the city by the sea, and we have a mile and a half of it to swoop.  The two engines begin to talk a little.  One says, "Brakes!" and the other, "All right!"  "Take a rest!" says the leader.  "Done!" says the wheeler, and they just let go their nervous breaths, and respire as gently as a pair of twin infants.  The brakes grasp the wheels like a gigantic thumb and finger, the engines hold back in the breeching, but down we go, into the hollows of the mountains; along craggy spines, as angry as a porcupine's and narrow as the way to glory; out upon breezy hills red as fields of battle; off upon Dariens of isthmuses that inspire a feeling that wings will be next in order.  Sparks fly from the trucks like fiery fountains from the knife-grinder's wheel, there is a sullen <HI REND="italics">gride</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The country looks as if a herd of mastodons with swinish curiosity had been turned loose to root it inside out.  It is the search for gold.  Mountains have been rummaged like so many potato-hills.  When pickax and powder and cradles fail, and the "wash-bowl on my knee" becomes what Celestial John talks--broken China--then as yonder!  Do you see those streams of water playing from iron pipes upon the red hill's broad side?  They are bombarding it with water, and washing it all away.  The six-inch batteries throw water about as solid under the pressure as cannon-shot.  A blow from it would kill you as quick as the club of Hercules.  Boulders dance about in it like kernels in a corn-popper.  I give <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The train is swaying from side to side along the ridges, like a swift skater upon a lake.  It is four thousand feet above the sea.  It shoulders the mountains to the right and left.  It swings around this one, and doubles back upon that one like a hunted fox, and drives bows-on at another like a mad ship.  Verily, it is the world's high-tide!  You have been watching a surly old giant ahead.  There is no climbing him, nor routing him, nor piercing him; but the engines run right on as if they didn't see him.  Everybody wears an air of anxious expectancy.  We know we are nearing the spot where they let men down the precipice by ropes from the mountain-top, like so many gatherers of samphire, and they nicked and niched a foothold in the dizzy wall, and carved a shelf like the ledge of a curved mantel-piece, and scared away the eagles to let the train swing round.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The mountains at our left begin to stand off, as if to get a good view of the catastrophe.  The broad can&tilde;ons dwindle to galleries and alcoves, with the depth and the distance.  You look down upon the top of a forest, upon a strange spectacle.  It resembles a green and crinkled sea full of little scalloped billows, as if it had been overlaid with shells shading out from richest emerald to lightest green.  Nature is making ready for something.  The road grows narrower and wilder.  It ends in empty air  There is nothing beyond but the blue!  And yet the engines pull stolidly on.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Down brakes!  We have reached the edge of the world, and beyond is the empyrean!  You stand upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The Grand Can&tilde;on is beneath you.  It opens out as with visible motion.  The sun sweeps aslant the valley like a driving rain of gold, and strikes the side of the mountain a thousand feet from the base.  There, twenty-five hundred feet sheer down, and that means almost a half mile of precipice, flows in placid beauty the American River.  You venture to the nervous verge.  You see two parallel hair-lines in the bottom of the valley.  They are the rails of a narrow-gauge railroad.  You see bushes that are trees, martin-boxes that are houses, broidered handkerchiefs that are gardens, checked counterpanes that are fields, cattle that are cats, sheep that are prairie-dogs, sparrows that are poultry.  You look away into the unfloored chambers of mid-air with a pained thought that the world has escaped you, has gone down like a setting star, has died and left you alive!  Then you can say with John Keats upon a far different scene, when he opened Chapman's magnificent edition of Homer:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Then felt I like some watcher of the skies<LB>When a new planet swims into his ken;<LB>Or like stout Cortez when with eagle eyes<LB>He stared at the Pacific, and all his men<LB>Looked at each other with a wild surmise--<LB>Silent upon a peak in Darien."<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>Queer people travel.  Returning to the car I saw a broad-gauge Teuton, with the complacent bovine expression of a ruminating cow, eating a musical Bologna lunch of "linked sweetness long drawn out," and I said to him, "Did you see Cape Horn?"  "Cabe Hornd?  Vat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:is <HI REND="italics">she</HI>
100.sgm:?"  One of those difficult old-bachelor questions that will never find anybody to answer.  Everything in this world but sausage and lager <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A yellow primrose was to him,<LB>And it was nothing more."<LB></HI>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>FROM WINTER TO SUMMER.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A CALIFORNIA train is a human museum.  Here now, upon ours, are the stray Governor of Virginia, an army captain going to his company in Arizona, a trader from the Sandwich Islands, a woman from New Zealand, a clergyman in search of a pastorate, an invalid looking for health, a pair of snobs, Mongolians with tails depending from between their ears, the proprietor of an Oregon salmon-fishery, a gold-digger, a man whose children were born in Canton while his wife lived in San Francisco, some Shoshones and dogs in the baggage car, and a family who ate by the day, breakfasted, dined, supped, lunched, picked and nibbled without benefit of clergy.  It would take a chaplain in full work just to "say grace" for that party.  Victuals and death were alike to them.  Both had "all seasons for their own."  They ate straight across the continent.  If they continue to make grist-mills of themselves, crape for that family will be in order at an early day.</P>
100.sgm:<P>At some station in the Desert where we halted for water, there sat, huddled upon the platform, some Shoshone Indians, about as gaudy and filthy as dirt and red blankets could make them, and papooses near enough like little images of Hindoo gods to be cousins to the whole mythology.  One of the squaws, with an ashen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Regarded with thoughtful eyes, the grouping was impressive.  Here in the Desert, as far away from blue water as they could possibly get, standing upon the same hundred square feet of platform, were Mongolians from the pagoda-land of "the drowsy East," aborigines from the heart of the continent, men from Fatherland and Motherland, and the lands of the lilies, the storks, the long nights, the broad days and the--interrogation-points, all met and mingled here for a little minute, and the cause of it is the wonder of it.  There it stands upon the track.  It is number 110.  It is the locomotive, at once a beast of burden, a royal charger, a civilizer and a circuit-rider.</P>
100.sgm:<P>At stations throughout the way, in places unutterably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Unless you have been made cosmopolitan by travel, the Overland Voyage gives you a lonely <HI REND="italics">far-away</HI>
100.sgm: feeling it will puzzle you to describe.  The air is so clear, the horizon so broad, the world so strange, the tune of life keyed two or three notes higher than you ever played it before, that you catch yourself wishing for a lounge on some old native sod where, if your name is not "McGregor," at least it is Richard when he was " <HI REND="italics">himself</HI>
100.sgm:<P>We have rounded Cape Horn!  Grand Pacific, good morn!  Rattling down the ridges, bringing up with a sweep in niches of valleys, like a four-in-hand before stage-houses with room for the cut of a figure 8.  A half-mile down and one hundred and ninety-three out, and there is The Golden Gate.  We are plunging into a carnival of flowers.  They hold up their dear little faces <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The valley of the Sacramento is a garden, and Sacramento is the " <HI REND="italics">urbs in horto</HI>
100.sgm: " of it.  It is our first glimpse of the Celestial Flowery Kingdom of the Christian world.  Roses never die.  Rare exotics that we at the East cherish as if they were infants, and bend over like new-made fathers and mothers, are distrained for conservatory rent and turned out-of-doors.  The white dome of the State Capitol rises like a pale planet above the green surges and waving banners of semi-tropic luxuriance--a planet with one mansion, the Temple of Liberty, and one inhabitant, an unprotected female, Power's Genius of California, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>These are the spacious parlors with their seventeen thousand square miles, and all carpeted with beauty from the silver Sierras "at the eastward of Eden" to the thin apparition of the Coast Range in the West.  The orange blossoms are abroad, and the fruit is as golden as the three pawnbroker planets, and as green as a walnut in its first round-about, all at once.  They that dwell here sit under their own vine and fig-tree, and the palm waves over their heads.  The stately orchards of live-oaks, in their chapeaux of green, stand at ease in the picture, to counterfeit the royal parks of Old England.  The Sacramento River wanders down on the way to the sea, while cloudlets of steam and flicker of flag and of wing mark the route.  Taste and wealth have conspired with Nature.  There is no fairer landscape between the Tropics.</P>
100.sgm:<P>And what a blessed country for Don Quixote!  How "the knight of the sorrowful countenance" would brighten at sight of California!  The Castilian Alexander sighing for more <HI REND="italics">windmills</HI>
100.sgm: to conquer, would have them here.  Every well-ordered family may keep a dog, a cat, or some children, but the windmill is sure to be the pet of the household.  It is an odd sight, fifty windmills in a broad landscape, all going at once; some painted green as dragonflies, some red, white and blue; these with hoods, those with their arms bare to the shoulder; facing different ways, looking square at you, or askance, or not seeing you at all.  Insects out of some gigantic entomology, whirling their antenn&aelig; at you, to beckon you or frighten you, or halt you or start you.  Then with a little whisk of wind, one will whip about like a cat and front the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:other way.  Some of them have tails like a fish.  Others, in the rolling country, have long slender bodies of wooden aqueducts that suggest devil's-darning-needles, only they have long, thin legs, sometimes four, and then a dozen, just to keep their dropsical bodies at the right altitude for irrigation.  These fellows turn their heads like hooded owls on a perch, and it would not astonish you much to see any of them develop wings and fly away, if only it was not <HI REND="italics">your</HI>
100.sgm:<illus entity="a100-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">DON QUIXOTE'S PARADISE</HI>
100.sgm:<P>You plunge into a tunnel a thousand feet long, are gone a minute in a kind of short night with noon at one end of it and sunshine at the other.  You emerge into valley after valley with picturesque halls between, the mountains keeping company as you go.  Diablo draws <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>But let us not ride high-horses to bed.  The sun is sliding down into what you never saw it drown in before--the Pacific Ocean.  The last time you saw it meet with a like calamity, it fell into Lake Michigan.  It has strength enough left to show what manner of person you are: as dusty as an elephant, a smutch on your face, a kink in your hat, and your ungloved hand shaded like some smoky work of the old masters.  Let us leave scenery for soap, and beauty for broom brushes.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>The car is an aggravated case of the First of May.  Everybody is making ready to move.  Leather valises, cotton trunks, carpet-bags of the style that it takes two to show the pattern, are repacked, the wrecks and bones of departed luncheons tossed from the window, cloaks and wraps shaken out of wrinkle, traveling-caps wadded and pocketed.  Dusky porters are alert, whisking half dollars from coats with a wisp-broom, leaving the dust undisturbed, as if they thought California tourists carried the sacred ashes of their forefathers about with them.  A woman is polishing her front hair with a licked finger.  One mother is washing a family of three with Desdemona's handkerchief.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Everybody is going everywhere, one to Puget Sound, that looked very dim and other-worldish on the old maps; another to the Halls of the Montezumas, where the grand old hero of Lundy's Lane went; a third to Japan.  You open upon a new page of the geography, and hear more names of far-away regions in an hour than you ever heard in your life.  They talk in a neighborly way of up the coast to Oregon, and down the coast to Callao, and over to Honolulu, as if it were just across a four-rod street.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The train runs through Oakland, a lovely live-oak suburb of San Francisco, thirty thousand strong, where a thousand houses a year has been the recent rate of growth.  You catch a glimpse of the tropical glories.  You see hedges of fuchsias and walls of scarlet geraniums twelve feet high, blazing like the Burning Bush.  You see walls of evergreen carved into arches and alcoves and gateways, as if they were green marble.  You see the California quail in his neat uniform and his quaint <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>At last you go to sea on the cars.  You run three miles out in salt water upon a pier.  You are in the midst of ocean-going ships, and saucy tugs, and fishing-smacks and rollicking jolly-boats.  Men-of-war lie quiet with cables in their noses and anchors at the end of them, nasal charms of gigantic dimensions.  You see the double-headed fowl of the imperial standard of the Czar, and the tricolor of France, and the tawny moon of Japan in a brick-red sky, and the calico-pattern of the Hawaiian Islands, and the splendid flag you were born under, more beautiful than all.  You hear fitful blasts of music from the distant decks.  You see lines of ports like the fingerholes of flutes along the ships' sides.  They are the burrows of thunder and lightning.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The little company here separate.  Good-byes and good wishes interchange, and we part with a figurative "cup of kindness" at our lips, and few, I dare say, left the train who could not have joined in the sad old song of the "Three Friends:" <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"And in fancy's wide domain<LB>There we all shall meet again."<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>I do not know Pythias, and I did not see Damon on the train, but I do know that just in proportion as men become truly human, they grow frank and friendly.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>You board one of the grandest ferry-boats in American waters, <HI REND="italics">El Capitan</HI>
100.sgm:, vast parlors on a bridge that crosses while you sit still, whereon four thousand people can be borne without a battle of the bones.  Everything is sweet and tidy as a nice little bride's first house-keeping.  I recall the old steamer "Nile," Commodore Blake, that used to sail the fresh-water seas, with a pair of golden lizards at the bow for a figure-head.  It was thought grand with its owlish saloons and its stuffy cabins, and its hissings and sputterings and rumblings of hot water everywhere, and its perpetual palsy like an irritable volcano with an uneasy digestion.  You could have put the habitable part of that <HI REND="italics">Nile</HI>
100.sgm:, crocodiles and all, into <HI REND="italics">El Capitan's</HI>
100.sgm:<P>You left the runners and hackmen of the East in four-and-twenty-blackbird rows, all their mouths wide open like young robins, all hailing you together in gusts of Northeasters, to ride somewhere and stay somewhere, and they are always "going right up."  Here, they meet you on the boat.  They accost you confidentially, they touch you in a velvety way on the elbow with "kerridge, sir?"  They are "the mildest-mannered men that ever"--asked a fare.  I am not sure I quite like it.  I take a kind of malicious satisfaction in watching the howling dervishes, as they stand just the other side "the dead line" of the curbstone or the rope railings, and howl.  It is delicious to think they cannot get at me and pull me apart, and rend my baggage, and send me around to various hotels a morsel apiece, even as they feed lions and variegated cats in a menagerie.</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO STREET SCENES.</P>
100.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO!  Crowned with palaces and dense with business houses as a redwood forest, six currents of life surging along her congested streets that jar with the endless thunder of commerce, four on the sidewalks and two on the cars; the ships of the world courtesying through the Golden Gate and sailing into the Bay like stately old dowagers entering the reception-room of a monarch.  And then remember it was a desert of sand-dunes, strown with seaweed and white bones, and desolate as an old African Gold Coast thirty years ago, a time hardly long enough for a century-plant to get a good ready for blossoming, and now more than three hundred thousand strong, it faces both ways and confronts the world!</P>
100.sgm:<P>The stranger's home is the hotel.  There are lions and lions, and no lack of them in San Francisco.  The Grand, The Lick, The Occidental, The Russ, The Baldwin, The Cosmopolitan, The Commercial and The Palace.  With the affectionate republican weakness for simplicity you go direct to The Palace.  It is a house full of houses, a kind of architectural Surinam toad that swallows uncounted broods of little toads to keep them out of danger.  The comparison is not appetizing, but it will serve.  Five such hotels would have bought all Florida at the time of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>A certain degree of elegance comports with the comfort of the average man, but the elegance may attain an uneasy magnificence, as when the luxurious pile of the carpet you tread yields to your foot, resembling a leisurely stroll on an immense feather bed, or as when a man unused to dwelling in a huge looking-glass, is constantly hastening to meet himself and be introduced to himself and be polite to himself.  This incessant meeting with the identical stranger gets monotonous after awhile, particularly if you wish to room alone.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The bay-window order of architecture prevails to a degree that suggests the proverb about glass houses and geological restlessness.  It is the first feature the stranger observes, and it gives the city a Venetian-balconied look, hinting moons, flutes and troubadours.  You think of Juliet when that love-lorn fanatic of a Romeo declared, in defiance of rhetoric and gender, "and Juliet is the sun!"</P>
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100.sgm:<P>You have only to look at the stately fronts mile after mile, with all the windows gracefully leaping out of themselves, to read the weather record.  They are an almanac far more accurate than Poor Richard's.  The sun of California is a power.  There is nothing to dim a firefly between the king and the Californian.  But the windows tell you the people crave the sun.  "Pleasant, shady rooms to let," says the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
100.sgm:.  "Bright, cheerful apartments, with the sun all day," says the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
100.sgm:, though how that can be is not quite so plain, unless you live in a lighthouse.  The reason for this love of basking is a misty reason for one so clear.  The fogs from the Pacific seldom rise a thousand feet, and the Coast Range of mountains, lifting its magnificent sea-wall, defends the land from these ghosts of the ocean.  But they <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Street life in San Francisco is a kaleidoscope that is never at rest.  There is nothing like it on the continent.  The flower-stands with their gorgeous array, the open-fronted alcoves fairly heaped with floral beauty, as if Eve had just moved in and had no time to arrange her "things"; the glimpses of bright color from leaf and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Then the fruit-stands that are never out of sight, with the mosaics of beauty spread upon them, as if Pomona's own self presided at the board.  Rubies of tomatoes, plums and cherries; varnished apples from Oregon, as cheeky and ruddy as "a fine ould Irish gentleman"; pears, peaches, apricots, nectarines, oranges, and those cunning Lilliputs of lemons, the limes; strawberries, blackberries and raspberries, that melt at a touch of your tongue; fresh figs, looking like little dark leather purses, and full of seeds and sugar--all these grouped upon the same broad table; everything from all the year round but snowballs, as if the gifts of the seasons were converged, like sunbeams through a lens, upon one luscious spot of summer luxury and brilliance.  You halt if you are not hungry, for you have learned that the richest beauty is not always in the flower.  You find that fruit goes by avoirdupois; peaches are in pounds and not in pecks; that it is not much cheaper than it is three thousand miles away; that your dimes have turned into "short bits," your quarters into "two bits"; that three "bits" are thirty-seven and a half cents, and it takes forty cents to make it; that pennies are curiosities, and poor little nickels nowhere; if an article is not five cents it is nothing; if it is twelve cents it is fifteen.  So you buy something at a "bit" a bite and move on.</P>
100.sgm:<P>This is the paradise of bootblacks, the rainless-sky <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>And there come some strolling players that are not Hamlet's, to confirm the story, with their harps and fiddles stripped of the green-baize jackets of more inclement skies, and naked to the very bones and tendons.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You notice in the ever-moving tides of street life an absence of the rainbow tints and the flickering white of woman's Eastern apparel.  The hues are soberer.  Seldom a day in a whole year that fur sacques, shawls and over-coats are not in order at some hour between sunrise and bed-time.  It is July, but see the fur-trimmed garments and the dark cloaks and the heavy veils go flitting along, and the sun just emptying his quiver of golden arrows all the while.</P>
100.sgm:<P>There, drawn by a span of horses, is a mill.  By the wheel, five feet in diameter, you would say it is a gristmill and runs by water, but the glimpse of a couple of big dogs chained behind discloses the power that moves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>A couple of breezy voices with a touch of the fore-castle in them raise a song above the din and roar and sharp castanet accompaniment of iron shoe and flinty street.  You turn and see something that might have been copied out of an old English seaport picture; a pair of tall, broad, rolling sailors in neat blue, with the flat tasseled caps and the neckerchief in the conventional salt-water knot.  Each has but a single leg to go upon, and you catch yourself looking to see if the missing member is not shut up like a jack-knife, which might be the thing for a jack-tar; but no, it is clean gone, carried away, perhaps, by a cannon-shot, or else shut together like the tube of a telescope.  Well, the two messmates with the one pair of legs, standing in the middle of the street, are singing jolly old sea-songs as salt as a mackerel, and swinging about on crutch and cane as the flakes of silver bits rattle down upon the pavement.  Passing children bring out their dots of half dimes, and hurrying passers-by remember the old boys of the blue roundabout.  It was a pleasant little touch of kindly feeling worth the time it took to see it.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You miss the trim-looking fellows in belted blue, silver buttoned, becapped, armed with clubs, and blazing with stars as big as Venus on the breasts of their coats.  They are not here, but in their stead men in gray, neither <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Here comes a covered wagon emblazoned "Flying Bakery"--a sort of flying battery of batter.  It contains a table, chairs, stove, cook and driver.  You step aboard, and in the turn of a hand, muffins are served up to you, as light as a wisp of fog and fresh from the fire.  Brisk little two-wheelers go darting about jolly as a jaunting-car, and they are flying butteries, laden with butter in rolls shaped like a fruit-can, wrapped in tissue-paper and sweet as a field of red clover.  Elephantine four-in-hands drawing huge wagons to match, are forever going and coming.  Basket phaetons resembling runaway cradles are working in and out amid the great crashing wains and the saucy coaches and the cars of all colors, as busy as red ants in a flurry, that meet and cross and run side by side and swing about each other in a free-and-easy fashion.  The streets are gridironed with tracks.  You see thoroughfares lying up against the tall horizon, steep as a house roof, but the wagons' go rattling down them at a reckless rate.  You see a car at the foot of a hill, laden with passengers, and waiting behind a platform car with a lever in the middle of it, and an engineer without any engine.  While you wait for the horses, that platform starts of its own accord, and tugs the car up that hill.  It looks like a piece of witchcraft.  The wooden horse of the Arab that went by a peg in his ear was not more magical.  You see another car coming down without horse or hold-back.  You are tempted to cry out, "The cars are running away with themselves!"  The traction is an endless chain beneath the track, the power a stationary engine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Sometimes painters used to go to Gibraltar to copy the costumes of far countries that set the streets in a blaze; but to see nations, come to San Francisco!  You meet a Spaniard in a wide hat, an Italian with ink in his hair, a correlative of frogs and <HI REND="italics">soupe-maigre</HI>
100.sgm:, all in a minute.  A California Indian in still shoes, a moon-faced Mexican in partial eclipse and a sort of African by brevet, a Russian with a square chin and a furry look, all in three squares.  You elbow South Americans, Australians, New Zealanders.  You accost a man who was born in Brazil, who hails from Good Hope, who trades in Honolulu.  One of the great Chinese merchants with an easy gait, an erect head and a boyish face, is coming around the corner.  A man from Calcutta is behind you.  "An Israelite in whom is no guile" is before you.  The Scotchman is here with the high cheek bones, the blue eyes, and the cutty-pipe and a word from Robby Burns in his mouth.  The Dutch have taken us, and the Irish, do they not "thravel the round wurrld"?  Of course, New-England is here, and New York and the South.  They are <HI REND="italics">every</HI>
100.sgm: -where, but show us your Colombians and Peruvians and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>I write in the "Metropolitan Temple."  It is built of pine from "the wild where rolls the Oregon," of fir, of <HI REND="italics">sequoia</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Stock three papers for ten cents!" is what the darting newsboys say to you when you land in San Francisco from the Overland Ferry.  The swift Mercuries of the press are cleaner faced and better clothed than in the East.  They are not gamins in any Parisian sense.  They are vitalized atoms of California "stock!" and that is the key-note to everything on The Coast.  It is a household word from the top of the Sierras to tide-water.  The touchy and uncertain thermometers of California Street are read off in lonely ranches and in country cities.  Almost everybody is interested--has made money, lost money, hoped money, in mining stocks.  He has a bulletin-board on his gate-post.  It is as if Wall Street were lengthened and widened to take in the whole of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:Empire State.  In San Francisco they deal in the raw material; bricks, bars, ingots, right from the mine; wealth in the original package; in what the mines promise; in what they perform.  East, it is "cash down," it is "stamps."  West, it is "out with the coin," "down with the dust."  You get forty dollars in silver.  There are eighty pieces; forty in the right pocket, forty in the left pocket, and there you are, an ass between two panniers, albeit it is a silver lading.  How deftly your Californian pairs out the half dollars!  They slip from one hand into the other as the creatures went into the ark, and as if they were born twins.  On the Atlantic, money is as sonorous, to use old President Backus's simile, as if you should make a bell of a buff cap with a lamb's tail in it.  On the Pacific, it is jingle and ring week in and week out.  You pay as you go.  A half dollar sheds its scales in no time, and nothing is left of it but "a short bit."  It looks larger to you than a withered leaf of postal currency.  It <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
100.sgm: more dignified, because its <HI REND="italics">gravity</HI>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>THE ANIMAL, MAN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO is a city where people are never any more abroad than when they are at home.  They support three hundred and fifty Restaurants, where all the delicacies and luxuries of this season or any other can be obtained at prices low enough to throw a Chicago caterer into bankruptcy.  Not less than fifty thousand people eat at Restaurants, and live in lodgings; perhaps thirty thousand more at the ninety hotels and the eight hundred lodging-houses and the six hundred boarding-places of the city, besides a herd of five thousand that drift from lunch table to lunch table, like so many cattle grazing in a range.  It is a Teutonic paradise, there being forty-two breweries; and as for liquors, there are enough to make a pretty heady punch of the Bay of San Francisco, if only they should play Boston Tea-Party with the stock in trade all at once, and rouse a fearful revel in the sign of Pisces, the Fishes, giving an extra tumble to the porpoises, and putting the sharks <HI REND="italics">hors de combat</HI>
100.sgm:.  They tell of "dry statistics," but here is a bit of the wet variety: there are drinking-places so many, that a copper-lined man can take an observation through the bottom of his drained glass once a day for <HI REND="italics">ten years</HI>
100.sgm:<P>And there are two hundred and sixty bakeries, enough <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>And then you go to one after another of the thirteen Public Markets, and there you read the whole story at a glance.  San Francisco is undoubtedly <HI REND="italics">omnivorous</HI>
100.sgm:.  A stroll through the "California," the "Washington," or the "Grand Central," will give a dyspeptic man a desire to go out and hang himself.  Everything edible that creeps, swims, crawls, runs or flies is here.  Forty-pound salmon, the grand fish of the Coast, are heaped in great red slabs like planks of the red sequoia; sturgeon hauled out of the Bay from fifty pounds weight to four hundred; rock-trout with their dappled sides; smelts of slender silver; soles that look as if they grew in <HI REND="italics">slices</HI>
100.sgm:; those piscatorial infants, the white-bait; calves' heads, their smooth cheeks and chins clean shaven as friars.  There is one now with a curious Chinese smile, calf-like "and bland"; mouthfuls of sparrows rolled up in their little jackets and passing for reed-birds; rabbits that simulate rats; lobsters all claws like a legislative bill.  Here is a table that runs to tongues, toes and brains.  Regardless of the "R's" in the names of the months, oysters are in order the year <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Shrimps--you know shrimps--are heaped about by the bushel.  They are ten-legged, long-tailed crustaceans, with whiskers enough for one of Campbell's "whiskered pandours."  A plate of those vermin is set before you at a restaurant--by way of recreation, while you are waiting for something to eat.  It is all right, but how much more amusing it would be to have them alive!  You could plague them with a stick, the precious bugs, and the restaurants could use them again.  Here are box terrapins about the size of the old Congressional snuff-box, with a head at one end and a taper tail at the other; sausages--"the savory meat" of the Old Testament--of every color and size, from chimney-black to poppy-red, and from puppy to hippopotamus.  Mottled and speckled and marbled and freckled, they are the very mosaic of meat.  There is one that looks like an elephant's foot.</P>
100.sgm:<illus entity="a100-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>YOU KNOW SHRIMPS</P>
100.sgm:<P>Everything from the gardens of the year round is here.  I count twenty-two varieties of vegetables upon a single stand.  Upon another are cocoanuts, oranges, lemons, limes, melons, pineapples, plums, figs, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, apricots, pears, peaches, nectarines, tomatoes, grapes, apples, cherries.  Now add anything you happen to think of, and it is there.  Do you know gumbo?  A green, fluted, West-Indies pod, coming to a point like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:a spontoon.  A little persuasion turns it into soup.  By its name it ought to come from Guinea.  Here are gorgeous flowers; and beneath them cages of dogs and doves.  California chickens are mostly of the breed that Pharaoh had when his corn-crop failed, and <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"JOHN," THE HEATHEN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You seem to be in the sign of Libra, the Scales.  There is John, the taper-eyed, with his blue shirt and his wapsy trousers, and snubby shoes, and his black braid of stub and twist, thirty thousand of him, going about with a springy pole balanced upon his shoulder, and a deep bushel basket swung from each end, filled with "garden truck."  Libra, the Scales, catches the spring of that pole in his knee-joints, and goes teetering about in the most outre and monkeyish manner.  If you leave the city and plunge into a can&tilde;on, you meet John with his pole and his panniers, a peripatetic pair of scales.  He is the only man in the world who makes a trunk of a spring-pole.</P>
100.sgm:<P>John always forgets to tuck in his shirt, and if he is well-to-do he wears two, white beneath and blue or black without.  He <HI REND="italics">finishes</HI>
100.sgm: dressing where the rest of mankind <HI REND="italics">begin</HI>
100.sgm:.  What would you have?  He advances backward and retreats forward, and falls upward and rises downward.  He is the animal man inverted, subverted, perverted, and everything but converted.  Discover how the world always does anything, and that is precisely the way John <HI REND="italics">never</HI>
100.sgm: does it.  Thus, the other day he was arrested for stabbing a countryman, and where do you suppose he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:struck him?  Why, in the <HI REND="italics">sole of his foot</HI>
100.sgm:<P>To me he looks as much alike as a flock of sheep.  Shepherds tell me they can distinguish any one in a flock of a thousand by its face, but John is too much alike for me.  I pass him on the street, and then in a minute I meet him.  To be sure he has changed his shirt and his shoes, but he has kept his face.  He took some soiled handkerchiefs of mine one day to wash, which he did not return, and his name it was Foo Ling.  So I went out to find him.  I succeeded in three minutes.  I overtook him, and passed him, and met him.  He had those little wipers-away of tears, as white and square as so many satin invitations to a wedding, in his hand, in a towel, in a basket, but he said he was not he, and I was somebody else.  It was a fearful case of mistaken identity.  The streets were crowded with him,--but alas for Foo Ling, it was fooling he was.  It was one of his "ways that are dark."  If the devil should have his due, why not John?  Without him the Central Pacific road would have waited completion many a long day.  Without him San Francisco would not be the cleanest-collared and cuffed and bosomed city in America.  Its inhabitants are as white around the edges as the brim of a lily.  Neither in New York nor Chicago do you see faultless linen so universal.  A laborer's clothes may be out at the knees or the elbows, or any other exposed point to wear and tear, but he is quite sure to show a bosom and collar immaculate.  John is a laundry.  He can wash, iron, crimp and flute fit for an angel.  He is handier than Bridget.  He is master of suds, an artist in starch, and a marvel to sprinkle.  You should see him do it.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:takes up a mouthful of water as your horse drinks, and out it plays in a spray so fine that were it a breath mistier it would float away in a cloud.  People have unfortunate ways of putting things.  They say he <HI REND="italics">spits</HI>
100.sgm: on the clothes.  It is as little like it as the feathery spray of a garden fountain.  People visiting China, as you and I will, look through the Celestial markets for <HI REND="italics">rats</HI>
100.sgm:.  They hunt the file-tailed rodent like Scotch terriers, They expect to find him hung by the heels to a perch, just as good Christians bestride that same roost with the delicate and infantile hinder legs of Batrachians, which are frogs, which are tadpoles, which are polliwogs, which are the verdant scum called spawn.  Let us play leap-frog and be happy!  Let us suffer him to make a <HI REND="italics">bonne-bouche</HI>
100.sgm:<P>John is a problem that never got into Euclid.  We speak slightingly of him, we despise his effeminate look, his insignificant stature, his shirt, his slouch, and the three feet of heathenism in his back-hair.  We scout him altogether.  But somehow he has gotten into every crack and crevice of the Pacific Coast.  Like an invasion of ants, he is everywhere under foot.  He is born into this country, not one at a time, but five hundred at a birth.  He has made himself useful within doors and without.  We eat of his cookery, we wear the garments he has kissed with a hot iron, we ride over the railroads he has builded, and lie upon the pillow he has smoothed.  Dogs have been known to take to cats instead of after them, but it is not the rule.  Americans have been known to love John, but it is seldom.  The sight of him seems to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>But his position and destiny have assumed a dignity that commands respect.  John has gotten into Congress, and inspired a virulent hatred in the breasts of thousands.  They would organize him out of existence with the Anti-Coolie Societies, and the Caucasian Orders, and the White Leagues.  But he is here, spring-poles, baskets, opium, pig-tail, idols and all.  He came legally.  He <illus entity="a100-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">"LIBRA THE SCALES"</HI>
100.sgm:remains lawfully.  He labors assiduously.  The only general sentiment of admiration he inspires is when he dies and goes to--China.  Sensible men want some of him, but not the five hundred millions behind.  Those mighty magnates of hot water, the railroad kings, and the mighty ranchmen who cannot look upon their ranges in a day's ride, and whose flocks and herds are uncounted--these men, these monstrous and unnatural products of the Pacific Slope, want all they can get of him.  They would elide the true "golden mean" of American society, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>"HOODLUM," THE CHRISTIAN?</P>
100.sgm:<P>Should a skittish horse come suddenly upon the word "Hoodlum," and it looked and sounded to equine organs as it looks and sounds to mine, that horse would take fright and run away.  You instinctively infer it names some creature of the cat kind, monstrous and anomalous, as if a puma should swap heads with the great horned owl.  The very <HI REND="italics">word</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The thing it names is a two-footed, human, semi-tropical animal, but he is neither the rowdy, the Five-Pointer, the wharf rat, the Bowery boy or the bummer.  They are his congeners, but he is a creature of finer grain, of hotter blood, of better breed as breeds go, and infinitely more of a power.  He roams San Francisco like the ownerless dogs of Constantinople.  He is never alone.  He goes in packs.  He is from twelve to twenty-two years of age, and seldom gets any older.  He doesn't die, but, like the fawn, he loses his spots.  I beg pardon of the fawn!</P>
100.sgm:<P>You see him, a slender, wiry, active fellow with some affectation of style, a jaunty way with his hat, a saucy jerk with his elbow, an alert and saucy eye; a free, let-all-go stride like a panther's; a sharp-edged chin that can pull out upon occasion like a wash-stand drawer; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>He is a creature impossible in any country with a New England winter and the homes that are born of it.  He is the product of two causes: an out-or-door climate where January and June are all one, and the loose, nomadic life of the Restaurants.  Home has neither charm nor restraint for him.  He eats where it chances, he sleeps where "the wee sma' hours ayont the 'twal" overtake him.  The Chinaman is a heathen at one end of the human race, the Hoodlum is a heathen at the other, and extremes meet.  In their knowledge of Jesus Christ they are a match.  Should the Hoodlums increase like the wielders of joss-sticks, it would take a standing army to keep the peace.  A home-made heathen in a Christian land is an <HI REND="italics">utter</HI>
100.sgm:<P>But the Hoodlum may partially atone for his damaging existence, by furnishing the only check to excessive immigration that exists.  John fears him, and rumors of his fame have gone back to the Flowery Kingdom.  The representative of "cheap labor" is the object of his malignant abuse, in part, perhaps, because John will do man's work <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Yesterday I saw a ten-year-old Hoodlum in a narrow street with a troop of urchins of low degree.  He had a pistol and a chin, and just as I passed, he ground out through his set teeth, "I'm a bloody robber!" and fell upon one of the boys and stole his hat.  The villainous look on that lad's face was twenty years old if it was a minute.  Altogether, San Francisco has two sorts of heathen--the domestic and the imported.  If she could only trade with China six Hoodlums for one John, she would be doing a living business, and ameliorating in a local way the condition of the human race.  As it is, what with debarking from foreign ships and clambering out of home cradles, "the Greeks are at her doors," and on both sides of them at that!</P>
100.sgm:<P>I have before me a characteristic visiting card that illustrates the possibility of eyes changing color, though the Ethiopian must keep to the shady side and the leopard stick to the old spots.  It runs thus:</P>
100.sgm:<P>BLACK EYES,</P>
100.sgm:<P>OR ANY DISCOLORATION OF THE FACE,</P>
100.sgm:<P>CAREFULLY PAINTED OVER.</P>
100.sgm:<P>PARTIES TREATED AT THEIR RESIDENCES.</P>
100.sgm:<P>What a card for a Donnybrook Fair, and what a trump this frescoer of human top-lights would be, to be sure!  I know few better places for such a card than the Hoodlum letter-box.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>PICNICS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The weather has a singular effect on the calendar.  Thus a California week begins on Monday, and the rest of the days are Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and <HI REND="italics">Picnic-day</HI>
100.sgm:.  Picnics are as sure as a Sharpe's rifle, and no rain ever wets the powder.  A girl can go in satin shoes with impunity, and her "fellow" wear a sky-blue necktie that, if it could rain, would make the front of him look like a blue gum-tree in full leaf.  He has as little need of an umbrella as a rainbow.  Nearly all the picnics go by water, but never in it.  They cross the Bay to all sorts of resorts and parks and gardens, but they never get wet-- <HI REND="italics">outside</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Californians are gregarious as pigeons and clannish as Highlanders.  Everybody is sorted out, from tinkers to architects, and distributed into Societies, like so much type, apparently to be <HI REND="italics">semper paratus</HI>
100.sgm: for a picnic, as the "Minute Men" of Concord were for a fight; and, like printers' types, they sometimes get "set up" just to carry out the figure, and are carried out themselves.  There are three hundred and eighty-five Societies in San Francisco, every one of which is bound to picnic at least once a year, and they bear all the names ever known on the Atlantic seaboard, and some besides.  There are "Foresters," "Red Men," "Knights of the Red Branch," "Caucasians," "Janissaries of Light," "Oak Leaf," "Ivy," "Pioneers," "Kong Chow," "Twilight," "Greek Russian Slavonian Society," the names of its officers all ending in <HI REND="italics">vich</HI>
100.sgm:, as Zenovich, Radovich; and those amiable animals, "The Benevolent Elks"--think of amiable elks! and then the Sons of nearly everybody--Liberty, Golden States, Golden Gate, Golden West, Faderland, Motherland, Revolutionary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>One of my first experiences countryward was a church picnic, by steamer and rail, to a lovely place called Fairfax, owned by descendants of the Fairfaxes of old Virginia, and neighbors within breakfast range of George Washington.  The boat swarmed with men, women and children.  The church sang hymns, and the band played "The Devil among the Tailors."  Arrived at the grounds, the crowd scattered away in groups, some to eat, some to swing, some to dance.  The band struck up while sinners danced and saints looked on.  The instruments of brass and the instruments of ten strings whirled away in the dizzy waltz, and "Hold the Fort" and "The Evergreen Mountains of Life" floated up from the hollow of the little valley's hand, and were swallowed by the big bassoon.  Sunday-school children ran round and round and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>It was a curious spectacle.  It was a sort of Happy Family.  It was a little as if the leopard lay down with the lamb and didn't eat it, and the little child interviewed the lion without a scratch, and the fatling became a great calf.  What sort of vignette for a Millennium Hymn the scene would make, would take an artist's eye to see, but at least it was worth the record, as showing how climate expands latitudes until every degree is a hundred miles long.</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>COAST, FORTY-NINERS AND CLIMATE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>THE geographies have been amended so that there is but one ocean, and the ocean has but one coast, and the coast is California--the widest, longest, liveliest, richest, grandest coast that ever had an edge in salt water--nine hundred miles one way by a thousand the other.  It would seem to a modest Eastern eye that nine hundred thousand square miles of nothing but continental selvedge must lap inland territory pretty broadly, but it does not.  The world is divided into Europe, Asia, Africa, South America, Madagascar, British America, the United States and California, and the last is like charity--it is the greatest.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"The Coast."  That is what they call it, and to him who sees it to-day and remembers it twenty-nine years ago, the sublime assurance of the emphatic phrase seems pardonable, and resentment is succeeded by an amiable smile.  A sort of defiant self-reliance characterizes your genuine Californian.  He was educated to it in the toughest and rudest of schools.  He found himself divorced from the world--and sometimes from his wife--by an ox-team trail of two thousand miles through deserts and over mountains on the one side, and a voyage on two oceans through a couple of zones and around Cape Horn on the other.  He was about as naked-handed as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:Robinson Crusoe before he caught his first goat.  From the time he wanted it to the time he got it made everything a year old when it was born into California.  What he did, this great city, this marvelous country shows forth on every hand.  He fell to and made everything himself.  You find San Francisco, in art, invention, production, science, about as self-sustaining as an independent planet.  He began with tents.  He ended with palaces.  His wife wanted silk for a dress.  He made it.  His daughter desired a piano.  He made it.  His children play "jack-stones" with agates.  He grows gold.  He cultivates silver.  He bottles mercury.  He raises stock countryward and stocks cityward.  He has gone to manufacturing doctors, lawyers and preachers.  He has raised Miltons that are "inglorious" because they are <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The Californian twenty-two carats fine is twenty-nine years old in this year of grace '78.  No matter how old he was when he came here.  If he came in '49, that's the year of his birth by California noon-marks and calendars.  He forgets that he was ever born before, or born anywhere else.  He forgets what he left behind him, even to the <HI REND="italics">girl</HI>
100.sgm:, sometimes, and like the last fowl that left the Ark, he never returns.  You meet him every day.  He tells you he has not been East in twenty years, and he has no idea of going in twenty more.  He knows as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>There is an association of Forty-niners called The Pioneers.  "The king can do no wrong," and they all belong to the royal family, eldest sons, every man of them.  They have kept pace with "The Coast," and it has been a <HI REND="italics">round</HI>
100.sgm: one, but they have not marched abreast with the Eastern world.  They are ignorant what gigantic strides the Atlantic coast--let us be modest, and bridle it with an adjective and humble it with a little "c"--and the inter-ocean empires are making.  They came when California was not a State, but a <HI REND="italics">predicament</HI>
100.sgm:<P>But for your genuine old Forty-niner, covered with Spanish moss and mistletoe, there is some apology when <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The hearty, enthusiastic, unreasoning love of California that inspires almost everybody in it is refreshing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:because it is genuine.  You cannot be around with it a great while without catching it yourself.  It is a sort of condensed abridgment of old John Adams patriotism, bound like a book in the covers of California.  They cheer "old glory" with the ardor of a perennial Fourth of July, but it looks grander and lovelier, flaring like a flame of fire in the gales from the Pacific, than drooping from its staff over the dome of the Federal Capitol.  It quite startles you to hear a band strike up "Hail Columbia," as if they knew it, and not "Hail <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The climate of the Coast stimulates men and women like wine.  It gives them courage that is not Dutch but weather, and confidence that is not conceit but intoxication.  It quickens the pulse and the step and the brain.  It sends them wild for pleasurable excitement.  It strengthens the passions.  It keeps everybody under whip and spur.  It makes him impatient of patience.  You live ten years in five, and it is scored against you.  It is a debt with inevitable payment.  A man who has not attained his mental growth can come here and shoot up for ten years like a rocket.  But alas, when he comes down, it is sudden, abrupt, like "the stick."  A man who has reached his law of limitation can migrate to California, and flash up brilliantly a little longer.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Watch bricklayers, brisk in their motions as busy ants.  Those men at the East would move with the deliberation of an old hall-clock pendulum with the weights just running down.  It is the climate.  Seventy miles in twenty-four hours at the East, over a satin road in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:December, is a <HI REND="italics">Jehu</HI>
100.sgm: of a drive.  Here sixty miles before sunset hurts nobody.  Your horse has been drinking California air.  He will do his best, or die a-trying.  But he will not last, any more than his master.  He will want an extra feed.  The driver will want an extra drink.  He cannot be a chameleon.  He cannot live forever on air.  He looks in a tumbler for a stimulant.  By-and-by he flickers, and it is " <HI REND="italics">out</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Boys and girls are born with percussion caps on.  Touch them and they explode.  They ripen early, in this sun and tonic air, into manhood and womanhood.  You can see mothers of fourteen, and see no marvel.  About forty thousand pupils are enrolled in the fifty-six public schools of San Francisco, and seven thousand in the hundred and twenty private schools and colleges.  It is quite as difficult to govern the young human California animal as it is to catch up a globule of quicksilver from a marble table with a thumb and finger.  Is it a boy?  He shouts, runs, leaps, struggles, just as his pulse beats--because he cannot stop it.  He has opinions, though his beard is a peachy down.  He is as positive as a triphammer.  Is it a girl?  She is as volatile as Cologne, her voice is joyous, her step a dancer's, her laugh contagious.  She is as dashing as a yacht in a white-cap breeze.</P>
100.sgm:<P>I live neighbor to the Lincoln School, as fine a structure as you will find anywhere, and set in the midst of a semi-tropical garden.  You should see the twelve hundred boys and girls "let out" at noon, and then let <HI REND="italics">themselves</HI>
100.sgm: out.  Swallows coursing a mill-pond; ephemera dancing in sunbeams; bees swarming when the hive is full; happy as speckled trout in the spring brooks.  Izaak <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The weather is as varied in California as the mind of desultory man.  Three hundred heroes at the Pass of Thermopyl&aelig; withstood a hostile world.  Excluding those that wear wool, there are as many weathers on the Pacific Slope.  When the king of Dahomey and an Arctic bear can breakfast together in the morning, and each reach his own climate before decent Puritan bed-time without leaving the State, the man who fails to be suited knows too little to be happy, and the bear should be eaten by the "forty children" who alluded to the Prophet's capillary destitution.  All the zones come to California for rehearsal, and then they go home to delight Hottentots and Laplanders, eider ducks and cassowaries, and all the sons of Shem, Ham and Japheth.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Nowhere in America are the seasons so neighborly as in California.  The impropriety of Winter sitting in the lap of Spring has made a public scandal, but when September is on whispering terms with May, and January borrows June's clothes, and July gives all her rainbows to November, it is high time to talk!  The Winter is in the Summer and the Spring is in the Winter, and harvest is in seed-time, and Autumn is lost out of the calendar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The effect of this loose state of society among the Seasons is delightfully apparent.  You never saw such ignorant roses in all your life.  They bud and blossom the year round, and never stop to undress or take a wink of sleep.  Ripening fruit and baby blossoms show on the same bush at once as they do in well-blest human families.  Cherry trees go into the ruby business in April and keep it up until October.  The hills are emerald in the Winter.  Ireland would glory in them, and the shamrock grow as big as burdocks.  The hills are tawny as African lions or Sahara sands in the Summer.  The grasses look withered and dry as tinder, but they hold the concentrated richness of the year cooked down by fire.  Turn out an emaciated old ox that resembles a hoop-skirt with a hide on, and though you would make affidavit that on such fare he will resemble a hoop-skirt with the hide <HI REND="italics">off</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The dry spiry grass you see is hay.  You do not think that Balaam's beast would covet it.  It was cured without cutting.  There is no rain to wash out its strength, and it just stands there, desiccated grass, waiting for somebody to eat it.  You do not have to tickle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>THE PACIFIC BREEZES.</P>
100.sgm:<P>For Eastern blood the continent has no Summer climate equal to that of San Francisco.  No languid days, no enervating nights, no steam to breathe, no lightning flash to dodge.  It is in the route of the trade-winds, that make a friendly call every day for half the year.  They come through The Golden Gate like the king's trumpeters, in a hurry, but never hurry enough for a hurricane.  More tonic weather passes that gate in the afternoon than all the lungs and windmills in America could dispose of.  To the stranger it is at first a little strong.  Cold catches him.  He growls and barks.  He thinks he has that musical instrument called catarrh, but wait awhile, and it will turn into something pleasant; the catarrh is a <HI REND="italics">guitar</HI>
100.sgm:, and the cheering, invigorating wind welcome as the "one blast upon his bugle-horn" that was worth "a thousand men."  Often in the morning it looks like rain and you think umbrella.  You fancy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The tourist to California is anxious about what he shall wear, and the writer being here to tell him, is bound to be explicit.  Leave all your Winter clothes at home and bring your Summer clothes.  To be emphatic, let me say it again: Leave all your Summer clothes at home and bring your Winter clothes.  If a month's travel in the State could not make this vexatious pair of contradictions as harmonious as the Four Gospels, then leave all your clothes at home and stay to keep them company.  You see furs, feathers and gauzes, shirt-sleeves and overcoats all Summer long, but nobody in San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<illus entity="a100-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">DRESSING FOR CALIFORNIA</HI>
100.sgm:<P>WEATHER ON MAN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Having always had man on the weather, why not reverse the authorship and have weather on the man?  It has become an axiom that "circumstances make the man."  Have you not been puzzled, sometimes, to think how one of these sayings got a seat among the axioms and nobody objected?  And then you felt a little as Haman did when he saw Mordecai, the Jew, sitting in the king's gate.  If climate is a circumstance, then the axiom <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
100.sgm: an axiom.  A poet of the rude Northern frozen nations is called a scald, because, perhaps, that is the pleasantest thing a man can think of who has to fight frost for a lifetime; but did you ever hear of a great Laplander or an intellectual Hottentot?  Neither refrigerators nor furnaces are precisely the place to develop standard men.  Now California weather will make a man belligerent and aggressive.  It will put new spring in his temper, and make it as quick as a steel trap.  It will take your Eastern neighbor, who used to go about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>San Francisco is "of the earth, earthy."  It has two atoms of things that are both in a lively state of unrest in Summer time.  They are fleas and dust, and both products of the blessed weather; but the first are only innocent dots of acrobats, the mustard-seed of full-grown circuses, and the last will leave no darker trace upon a lady's garments than a pinch of salt.  The first day of your arrival, when you are filling and tacking and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>GOING TO CHINA.</P>
100.sgm:<P>YOU can reach China and not "go down to the sea in ships."  I went one night and returned before the cock crowed midnight.  Missionaries used to sail away to Pagan lands, and drop slowly down into the underworld behind the great waves that lapped the horizon.  Now, they can visit the "Central Flowery Kingdom" without wetting their feet.  We boys used to fancy that somewhere or other there was a hole through the globe direct to China, if only we could find it--a sort of flue for the fragrant cloud supposed to rise from the world's tremendous teapot.  I remember looking for it in boyhood, and flushing with a discovery supposing myself a small Christopher Columbus.  It was not a Chinaman at the bottom of that burrow, but a <HI REND="italics">woodchuck</HI>
100.sgm:<P>That hole has been found.  The city of the Golden Gate happened to be built just around its mouth, and John has swarmed up out of it like swallows from a sooty chimney.  Through the courtesy of the chief of police a party of friends, of whom I was one, was furnished with passports to Hong Kong or Peking or Nanking, and with a special officer of intelligence, we sailed.  Fancy yourself walking along the gay streets of San Francisco in the edge of the evening--streets bright with light, pleasant with familiar forms, musical with English speech, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:and feeling all the while, that under the patriotic flight of July flags as thick as pigeons and as gay as redbirds, you were still at home though thousands of miles away--fancy this, and then at the turn of a corner and the breadth of a street, think of dropping with the abruptness of a shifting dream into China, beneath the standard of Hoang-ti who sits upon the dragon throne--that triangle of a flag with its blue monster rampant in a yellow sea.  And it <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
100.sgm:<P>A strange chatter as of foreign birds in an aviary confuses the air.  A surf of blue and black shirts and inky heads with tails to them is rolling along the sidewalks.  Colored lanterns begin to twinkle.  Black-lettered red signs all length and no breadth, the gnarled and crooked characters heaped one above another like a pile of ebony chair-frames, catch the eye.  You halt at a building tinseled into cheap magnificence, and hung with gaudy paper glims.  The old, far away smell of the lead-lined tea-chest comes back to you--the pale green chest, of whose leaden cuticle you made "sinkers" when you fished with a pin, that used to be tumbled round the world to reach you, with Old Hyson, Young Hyson old Hyson's <HI REND="italics">son</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The creak of a Chinese fiddle shaped a little like a barometer all bulb and little body, scrapes through a crack in a door, as if it was rasped in getting out.  Lights stream up from cellar stairs.  Odors that are not light steam up with them.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>A CHINESE RESTAURANT.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You enter the Restaurant.  It is the "Banquet Saloon" of Yune Fong.  And there is Yune Fong himself, a benign, double-chinned old boy who is of a bigness from end to end.  He sits by a counter, at which small bits of human China are busy setting words on their heads.  Under his hand is a well-thumbed arithmeticon, a family of boys' marbles strung like beads upon parallel wires and set in a frame, wherewith Fong cyphers out your indebtedness and his profits.  This floor is a helter-skelter of store-house, kitchen and reception room.  China jars and things in matting and things in tinsel and things in packs, and seats as hard as the fellow's perch who was "sitting on the stile, Mary."  It is the eating place for the sort of people we are said to have <HI REND="italics">always</HI>
100.sgm: with us, to wit, the poor.  Things have a smoky, oleaginous, flitch-of-bacon look.  The lights are feeble, as if there were nothing worth their while to shine on.  You climb stairs into an improved edition of the ground floor.  The furniture is faintly tidier and better, the table-ware costlier.  This is the resort of the happier John whose "short bit" is a quarter.  One more lift and you are in large and elegant apartments with partitions of glass, a sort of oriental Delmonico's, gilded and colored and flowered and latticed like a costly work-box or a fancy valentine.  The furniture is of Chinese wood dark as mahogany at a hundred years old.  The chairs are square and ponderous as those at Mount Vernon, their seats inlaid with marble and covered with mat-like cushions; the tables, rich marble mosaics.  Lacquered boxes and curious cabinets abound.  Musical instruments, of patterns as quaint as any that Miriam ever sang to, hang upon the walls.  There is one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>"WE'LL ALL TAKE TEA."</P>
100.sgm:<P>You call for tea, and a couple of waiters border a circular table with a Zodiac of tiny blue-flowered cups each with a cover, and a China spoon as broad as a boy's tongue.  Pale cakes with a waxen look, full of meats, are brought out.  They are sausages in disguise.  Then more cakes full of seeds as a fig.  Then giblets of you-never-know-what, maybe gizzards, possibly livers, perhaps toes, but not a <HI REND="italics">rat</HI>
100.sgm:.  You must be as crazy as Hamlet to fancy you even <HI REND="italics">hear</HI>
100.sgm: one in the wainscot.  Then preserved ginger and Chinese chestnuts and prepared rice.  Last and greatest, TEA.  The drawings are in the cups, and Aquarius, the water-bearer, floods them with hot water, replaces the covers, and then a fragrant breath as from a rare bouquet fills the air.  This is tea, genuine, delicate, strong as old wine of the cob-webbed vintage of '36.  This is what our grandmothers who chinked up their hearts on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:"washing-days" with Cowper's "cup that cheers," sighed for, and like the ancient leader, died without the sight.  It sets tongues running.  The weak are mighty, and the weary comforted.  The precious leaf is worth five dollars a pound.  This third-floor restaurant is for magnates; it is a region rarefied to "four bits."  What you leave of the tea descends to the next floor, takes another dash of hot water and is served up again for "two bits."  The unhappy grounds drop another flight of stairs, the last pennyweight of strength is drowned out, and "a short bit" will buy the <HI REND="italics">syncope</HI>
100.sgm:<P>THE JOSS-HOUSE AND THE GODS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You descend to the fresh air.  Fong smiles you graciously out; you cross a street and enter a narrow and noisome alley.  It is Stout's alley, and the scene of most of the murders in the Chinese Quarters, and the causes are women and gambling.  The alley grows dimmer, and full of Chinamen as an ant-hill is of ants.  Doors to little bazars, to nooks of sleeping places, to alcoves of shops, stand wide.  You count ten in a den where Damon and Pythias could hardly have dwelt a week, unless they were both bed-ridden, without quarreling about cruelty to each other's toes.  Here, they are fluting clothes.  There, a Chinese tailor is chalking a pair of trousers on a table as if he were drawing a map.  John does everything backward.  He is the dorsal fin of mankind.  He is a human obliquity.  He might have attended a school for crabs.  In fact, he is one of "Crabb's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Just here you fraternize with the policeman and pluck his gray coat by the sleeve.  You see he wears no star.  You ask him if he doesn't have that silver bit of astronomy?  He laughs.  "Oh, yes; here it is in my pocket; but all the Chinamen know me."  And you see they do.  They crowd up toward the party, but getting a glimpse of him, they execute a concentric as the water in a mill-pond does when a pebble strikes it.  They give us an horizon of shirts with legs to them.  The white soles of their shoes show in the uncertain light.  It is the only soul about them of just that color.  We are lost in a zig-zag of dingy stairs.  We are surrounded by dark walls.  We look down into courts that are black.  Twinkles show faint like fire-flies in a cloudy night.  The murky air reeks like Gehenna.  Like the city of Cologne, there are seventy smells, and not one is cologne.  Within the space of a few squares are twenty thousand Chinese.  The place is a live honeycomb, barring the honey.  They are packed like sardines in a box.  Our guiding star whips out a candle he has bought, strikes a match on the toe of a heathen god and lights it.  We are reduced to the glimmer of other days.  In a city filled with light and beauty and Christian churches, we are groping around in the dens and cul-de-sacs of a foreign and idolatrous land by the flare of a tallow candle.  It is gloomy as grim Charon's ferry-house.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Up a few steps, down a few steps, round a corner, up a whole flight, along a gallery as dumb as a tomb, we reach the door of the Joss-House, one of eleven heathen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:temples in San Francisco.  It is never closed, and we enter.  Floating lights in glass tumblers but dimly reveal the place.  "Dim," but not "religious."  Gothic flower-supports of white metal, resembling square candlesticks for giants, stand in rows.  The inevitable flare of brilliant red and gold and silver tinsel, and gew-gaws, and huge paper bouquets, and black writing on the walls, and sparkling rosettes all about, as if everything had been washed out in rainbows and the tints proved fast colors.  In the great shrines are rows of sinister gods with trailing black beard and moustache.  One of them, a truculent fellow, in an embroidered night-gown, who might have been modeled from some Chinese-Tartary brigand, is the god of War.  Here is a life-size figure holding a small grape-shot between a thumb and finger.  He is the deity of Medicine, the Chinese Esculapius, with a most bilious and unhealthy look himself, and that missile is a <HI REND="italics">pill</HI>
100.sgm:.  If it ever found a lodgment in the stomach of anybody blessed with only ordinary powers of deglutition, it must be from the mouth of a howitzer.  There is the god of Fortune, with a nugget of gold in one hand, and John sacrifices to him with great fidelity.  You pass into another apartment where are two lay figures of young women in gorgeous apparel, canary-colored and gold.  They are the goddesses of Love and Beauty--but which is which?  One of them is watching the bridge of her own nose with both eyes, as if they kept toll-houses at both ends of the bridge, and were looking out, or rather looking <HI REND="italics">in</HI>
100.sgm:, lest somebody should "run the gates."  And the other looks as if she had been dragged up from the Chinese heaven by her hair, and she had no time to fix it; but there she sits with her lifted eyebrows as if her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>And now we come to three idols--they are the elements.  That party with the florid face, like a harvest moon, is supposed to be Fire.  Seated next him is the dropsical divinity of Water, and the unethereal neighbor at his right is the deity of Air.  As for Earth, there is quite enough of her in the form of dust.  Possibly they made a grist of the goddess and sprinkled her over the whole.  In a corner low down, is a cross between a small scare-crow and a "Dandy Jack."  It is the great Ground Devil, and looks as if he might be his own rag baby.  He can raise the mischief, which is the devil, with sick people, if he does not receive proper attention.  Before him is a little altar, whereon food designed for invalids must be placed, and whence he adroitly extracts all deleterious qualities.  Thus colic is eliminated from withered cabbage, dyspepsia from toasted cheese, and shark's fins are made to agree charmingly with the eater.  Near the entrance is a sort of mongrel Vishnu, seated cross-legged like a journeyman tailor.</P>
100.sgm:<P>In a large shrine sits the god of Beasts, a sort of Nimrod, and beside him a brindled cur of unamiable mien, who accompanies his master when he goes out upon mythological business.  But, as one of the party remarked, "a little of this will go a great way."</P>
100.sgm:<P>Not a window visible in this China Closet of gods supernal, infernal and mixed.  Doors are open on one side and another, where by the feeble lights you see John watching you, or walking near you as stealthily as a shadow.  One scene, framed in a doorway, might have been painted by Rembrandt already: a Chinese Doctor in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>And this is what men are left to do!  These garish figures are actually worshiped here and now within an hour, by human beings in their blind gropings for superior powers.  You cannot believe it.  Here are the little altars of sand wherein the small gummy cylinders of fragrant woods, called joss-sticks, are set up and burned before the gods.  Here are some now but half consumed.  Their worship is of the economical order.  They give the divinities what they themselves can neither use nor give away.  Their board does not cost them a copper cash with a hole in it.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"TWELVE PACKS IN HIS SLEEVE."</P>
100.sgm:<P>John has a cunning hand with a good memory.  Cards are his affinity.  He does not laugh in his bell-mouthed flowing sleeves, but he shuffles cards into them with the adroitness of a wizard.  You see the smoky dens as you pass.  The gamblers sit around the table which is classic but fallen, covered, as it is, with grease, "but <HI REND="italics">living</HI>
100.sgm: grease no more."  His features come to a focus like a fox's as he watches the play of the cards.  His mouth puckers with expectancy.  He is furtive but fierce.  His eye never brightens.  It <HI REND="italics">snaps</HI>
100.sgm: its delight when the four bits are his by the turn of the game.  He will wager everything he possesses, wife, children, friends, anything but his <HI REND="italics">cue</HI>
100.sgm:, when the "cash" gives out.  He is not fair.  He is not square.  He doesn't read Latin, and so he misunderstands the difference between <HI REND="italics">meum</HI>
100.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">tuum</HI>
100.sgm:.  He thinks <HI REND="italics">meum</HI>
100.sgm: is his and <HI REND="italics">tuum</HI>
100.sgm: his own, when he can get it.  His "pickers and stealers" are deft and adroit, and you are daft <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>AN OPIUM DEN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Blundering our way out we pass a hanging gallery, and, as the song of Captain Kidd has it, "down, down, derry down" stairs that are crooked and dark, into a court black as Erebus, by the one light, but "how far a little candle throws its beams," and the place looks better in the dark than in the blaze of chandeliers.  The odors creep up from the dingy floors as we walk.  The royal Dane, had he been of the party, would have repeated a phrase of his talk in the graveyard, "and smells so!  Pah!"  Our trusty guide went right along with an assured stride.  Black figures were stealing about in the gloom.  Nobody would wish to be an owl anywhere else.  It gets inkier and murkier, but the policeman pushes open a door and lets out a little light.</P>
100.sgm:<P>We enter a small box about eight by ten, not much larger than some window-panes.  As for window this room has not so much as a snuff-box has.  Compared with it the tomb of the Capulets is light and airy as a belfry.  A table in the center holds a lamp.  The sides of the room are fitted up with stationary bunks.  The proprietor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>THE OPIUM-SMOKER'S DREAM.</P>
100.sgm:<P>His head reposes upon the block.  He begins to be at peace.  You ask him, "How many smoke?"  "Ten mo'," he says.  The night's luxury will cost him "six bits," which includes bed, board and bliss.  He has visions, but he never tells them.  He sees a pagoda of gold that is his, and the gods that are in it are his, and they rustle in cloth of gold, and jewels glitter like restless eyes upon their breasts.  For the little insignificant box, he has great jars of opium in his cabinet, and the mouth-piece of his pipe is of amber, and the bowl has the name, which is his, of See Ling, in mother-of-pearl, and he rides in a palanquin with curtains of silk and fringes of gold, which is his, with six coolies to bear him and two maidens to fan him.  He dwells by the Kin-sha-kiang, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:which is the river of the golden sand, and his wife has the feet of a mouse.  The fragrance of bird's-nest soup is in his nostrils and the voice of the fowls of the nankeen legs makes music in his ears.  His tea is brewed from the chests of the king.  And then the visions are all folded in silk that is crimson, and the music of cymbals is faint, and he lies upon a cloud that is silver and down, and floats gently away, and with a murmur of "blessed be poppies!" the last whiff of forgetfulness gone out, he lapses into a sleep that is dreamless, and strange as the rhythm of Coleridge,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"In Xanadu did Kubla Khan<LB>A spacious pleasure-dome decree,<LB>Where Alph the sacred river ran<LB>From caverns fathomless to man<LB>Down to a sunless sea."<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>The den grows heavy with the ghost of opium.  Your head seems inflating like a balloon, as if it were about to make an unauthorized ascension and leave you to look after yourself.  The forms of your friends, albeit some of them are "reverend seigniors," begin to sail off in a solemn waltz.  You are a second-hand opium smoker, and so, none too soon, the creaky door is pulled open, and we go out into a darkness that is cheerful compared with the drowsy haziness within, and breathe undiluted what De Quincey calls "the mephitic regions of carbonic acid gas."</P>
100.sgm:<P>You push open the door of a second den where every head has come to the block of oblivion, give a look and move on.</P>
100.sgm:<P>There are dens and dens.  Once more in a choked alley that seems a Broadway to the dungeon behind, you see a fresh young face, wily as some of those in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:Rembrandt Peale's "Court of Death," framed in a little wicket window, which is also a <HI REND="italics">wicked</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"THE ROYAL CHINA THEATRE."</P>
100.sgm:<P>With a sense of relief we slip out of the alleys that, with their narrowness and darkness and abomination, seem to catch us by the throat, but we have by no means got back to America.  We are in China still.  Entering a well-lighted hall, garnished on one side with all sorts of celestial tit-bits and relishes, we pay our four bits and enter what great gorgeous letters over the proscenium give a kind of typographical shout at us and name "The Royal China Theatre," and the royal is less apparent than the China.</P>
100.sgm:<P>It has a gallery, but we go into the pit or the dress-circle, or what, with the black heads and the black blouses and the black hats, looks most like a parquet filled with mourners at a funeral.  Not a trace of color in that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The play is in full caper.  I use the frisky word after considerable meditation.  It is the right one.  The play is a compound of tragedy, comedy, farce, caravan and circus, and the last was the best.  I think celestial Thespians' strongest theatrical hold is their feet and legs.  And the name of the play was a compound of pork and carbonate of lime, for it was "Horn-Mun-Sow."  I know what it was about, but I never mean to tell.  They began it at seven o'clock, and they played right through to one in the morning, which is nothing for them.  A drama has been produced at that theatre consuming three weeks in the performance, seculars and Sundays, in sessions of five hours each; a solid week of histrionic distress.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The price of admission to the theatre is graduated by the time you endure it.  First of the feast, four bits; ten o'clock, three bits; midnight, two bits; and when it gets down to the very toes of tragedy or the heel-taps of comedy, it is a dime.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Apparently it was a troupe where the women were all men and the men were all women, though you doubted at last whether either were either.  Of course there was and the actors entered from apartments at the sides.  Of course the orchestra was not in front and below the stage, but upon it and beyond the grand stride-ground of sock and buskin.  What would you have?</P>
100.sgm:<P>"THE PLAY'S THE THING."</P>
100.sgm:<P>If you can fancy a flock of gorgeous cockatoos in a state of anarchy, and nobody to read "the riot act," all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:chattering in falsetto--not an honest, manly bass tone the whole night; if you can suppose the chief of a band of robbers, with the tail of a bird-of-paradise waving from the back of his head, and a pair of white wings at his shoulder-blades, and a fan in his hand, and whisking about in an embossed and brocaded petticoat, with a cackle of a voice, as when a hen lays an egg or sees a hawk or tries to crow, and a face painted to counterfeit a death's-head moth, and finished out with the beard of a billy-goat; if you can picture a bench of high officials in the full "pomp and circumstance of" a state council, all at once setting off in pirouettes and pigeon-wings, and whirling like teetotums, and swinging round like boomerangs, and frisking away in fandangoes, attacked with Saint Vitus's dance, spouting a tragic passage and executing a double shuffle in the same minute; hopping off in a <HI REND="italics">coupee</HI>
100.sgm:<P>After that, a battle, when, with the most wonderful crowing and cackling that Reynard's advent ever roused in a populous barn-yard, they flew at each other like enraged and rampant butterflies, with a blending and confusion of tints as if the seven primary colors had been struck with a chromatic Babel, and would never in all this world be sorted out into rainbows again.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>Had you fallen down and worshiped the whole thing it would have been no sin, for it was the semblance of nothing "in the heavens above or the earth beneath or the waters under the earth."</P>
100.sgm:<P>After that the entire talent broke to pieces and exploded like fireworks into wheels and rockets and flying leaps.  They turned into acrobats, and the circus began.  And it was truly wonderful.  Fancy a man throwing himself from the height of a dozen feet and falling flat upon his back and as straight as a rail upon the uncarpeted floor.  The dull <HI REND="italics">thug</HI>
100.sgm:<P>THE ORCHESTRA.</P>
100.sgm:<P>But that orchestra!  Hogarth's enraged musician never heard its match.  There were ticks and clucks and jingles and squeaks, and tinkles of bells, and a frog-and-locust interlude, and emaciated fiddles; but when the battle began they all struck out like Sandwich Islanders in the surf, into a roar of gongs and a clash of cymbals shining and ringing like the shield of Achilles.  Sometimes the tune seemed to be "The Arkansas Traveler" or "Old Rosin the Bow," and then those instruments leaped over the musical bars and ran away.  The music and the acting were alike--a marvelous jumble.  It was as if a medley had swallowed itself.</P>
100.sgm:<P>I am inclined to think that this fashion of mingling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>While I have only made a faithful record of the dramatic scenes and sounds, with not one touch of exaggeration, a fact to which one Doctor of Divinity, two traveling missionaries and one neophyte can bear witness, yet it must be frankly admitted that, on reading it over, I hardly believe it myself, but it is severely true for all that.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Out at last and for good and all, we cross from China into America, under a starry sky, and breathing an air fresh and free from beyond the Golden Gate.  It was like emerging from a total eclipse into broad and blessed day, and I recalled the words of Tennyson with all the vividness of poetic creation.  It was as if I had written the lines myself:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Through the shadow of the globe we sweep into the younger day,<LB>Better fifty years of Europe than a <HI REND="italics">cycle of Cathay</HI>
100.sgm:!"<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>Harems in Utah and idols in San Francisco--idol set up like ten-pins, and no man bowls them down.  Who says this is not emphatically the land of latitudes?  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>We have regarded John as a sort of overgrown boy, a kind of <HI REND="italics">cushiony</HI>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>MISSION DOLORES AND THE SAINTS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>TO-DAY there are one hundred and ten churches, chapels and missions in San Francisco, giving one place of worship to every three thousand people, exclusive of "the strangers within the gates," and services are conducted in French, Spanish, Russian, Scandinavian, Italian, German, Hebrew, Welsh, English and Chinese.  You should hear the Chinamen in full tongue in a Sunday school.  After that you can tell where the idea of a gong came from.  It is as original as a tremndous echo; and sounds as if the names of all the rivers had got away and ran in together--Yang-tse-kiang-Hoang-ho-kiang-ku-Kin-sha-kiang-Ya-long-kiang- <HI REND="italics">Ding-Dong</HI>
100.sgm:<P>It was one of those perfect San Francisco days with which the year is almost filled, when the sun and the ocean conspire to sweeten and temper the air with beams and breezes, when the hills grow friendly and draw near, and so we went to the Mission Dolores, founded by the Spanish Friars on the 9th of October, 1776, when much of the land on which the city stands had not yet come out of the sea, and the shore was a wide waste of dunes.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Here, one hundred years ago, civilization's farthest outpost, half church and half fortress, was established, and its patron Saint Francis was to give the-Yerba Buena of the old maps the new name of San Francisco.  Built <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>And there is the old chapel, with its columned front fair to see as a white nun, and there, in three square port-holes, hangs a chime of three bells brought from Castile many a year ago, rung, perhaps, within hearing of the sunlit towers of my <HI REND="italics">Chateaux en Espagne</HI>
100.sgm: --ah, those castles in Spain!--and now green with rust.  Those bells rang out the old century, rang in the new.  You enter the low-arched doorway into the chapel, a hundred feet from altar-place to threshold; and where are the hands that set the keystone, and where the priests that blessed the place, and where the hidalgos that stood around?  The hands held flowers that drank them up.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The good swords rust;<LB>Their souls are with the saints, we trust."<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>But here are the walls of stone and unburned clay, four feet thick, and here the mullioned windows, woven with fan-light sash like spider's web; and here the Spanish linen canvas with its pictures of The Last Supper and the saints; and here two grand shrines of painted wood from Spain, with figures of Saint Francis, Saint Joseph and all; there the Madonna and the Christ that came over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Here, for a hundred years have matin prayer and vesper song and grand high mass been rung and chanted, said and sung.  Here, priests from Spain, from Rome, from France, have lifted hand and blessed the people, while Indians and Mexicans and old Peruvians stood around.  Here brave nuns have breathed their Ave Marias in the wilderness.  Vanished all, like light from dials when the sun goes down.  Think of the long-dead day when a Spanish guard was stationed here to protect the Mission.  And the desert is a city and the city a mart, and Spain has ceased to be the Motherland, and Mexico her Daughter-in-law, and no blue-blooded Castilians come to their outlying dependency any more.  The face of the world is changed as if fire had swept and God created it anew.</P>
100.sgm:<P>THE OLD GRAVEYARD.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The graveyard of a hundred-and-one years adjoins the church.  You pass under the cross that surmounts the gate, and are in the city of "the houses that shall last till doomsday."  The earth is rich with the uncounted dead.  You tread upon them in the alleyways.  There are hundreds and then hundreds.  Nameless Indians with their heads to the rising sun lie here by bands and tribes.  The old sexton unearths them sometimes wrapped in the hides of wild cattle for shrouds.  Soldiers of the blue and the scarlet, English, American, Russian, Spanish, Mexican, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>At last, beside the old adobe wall, the sexton shows an unsuspected grave, no slab nor mound nor coverlet of grass.  Beside it is another, with turf subsided like a tired wave.  It is surrounded by a bleached and sagging fence of pickets.  Over these two graves a small historic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>As you turn to leave the place, the marble figure of a suppliant woman with lifted hands and sad and sightless eyes turned heavenward, impresses you like a spoken word.  So are these all beneath the sod, all but the lifted hands.  Speechless, helpless, front-face to Heaven, here they lie and wait.  God save the world!  Let us go out at the time-stained gate, and into the ever-flowing tides of living creatures.  We had almost forgotten the glad sun and the crystal air, and even the roses the sexton gathered from some graves to give us, seemed to shed a sad, funereal fragrance, as of crape, and the vexed and troubled earth that, for the graves they make within it, has little rest.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Quick!  There's a Valencia street car.  "So dies in human hearts the thought of death."</P>
100.sgm:<P>THE SAINTS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>California geography has the true old Mexican and Castilian stamp upon mountain, town, vale and river.  It is genuine as the silver Spanish quarter of other days.  To be sure, it does not bear the pillars of Hercules, but the Saints have stepped down from niche and shrine, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The names the miners gave their camps and claims are almost always hooks to hang a history on.  Hell's Delight and Devil's Basin are an antipodal offset to Christian Flat and Gospel Gulch.  Slapjack Bar and Nutcake Camp commemorate some dainty dishes.  Shirt-tail Can&tilde;on and Petticoat Slide belong to the wardrobe, while Piety Hill probably christened a vantage ground that no Christian ever went to if he could keep away.</P>
100.sgm:<P>It is easy to see how, as among the old Saxons, names grow out of callings.  Thus in Sonoma county there are four John Taylors, and not one of them "John Taylor of Caroline."  Three are known by the way they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>VALLEY RAMBLES AND A CLIMB.</P>
100.sgm:<P>IF you wish to be acquainted with California, fall in love with its valleys, smell its flowers, taste its fruits, know its people, breathe its air, you must not sit in a railroad car contemplating somebody's back-hair, or wondering whether the observer next behind you sees anything wrong in the nape of your neck; but you must go in a big covered wagon as strong as a mill, with a pleasant company, and such a friend and Palinurus as I had, in the person of a gentleman who can preach a sermon, give a lecture, edit a paper, build a temple, found a college, and run a railroad.  But none of these abilities would have mattered the crack of a whip if he had not known how to <HI REND="italics">drive</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Crossing San Francisco Bay, all snug and stowed, full of lunch-baskets and expectation, we struck into the Sonoma Valley, bound for the Petrified Trees and the Geysers.  Though it never rains here except by programme, yet it rained.  They tried to persuade me it was a fog, but a fog that has a body to it and tumbles all to pieces in rattling saucy water, inspires the hope that there will be no such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:thing as California rain until I am safe beyond the mountains.  As a boy would say, it was a <HI REND="italics">level</HI>
100.sgm:<P>It had only been a day since I was wishing for the fragrance and the music of a dear old June shower, bound about its forehead with a rainbow as with a fillet; the flowers nodding sweet approval and the leaves lapping it like tongues that are athirst, and here it was, all but the fillet, and I was not content.  It is hard to tell precisely what we <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
100.sgm: want.  But it is due to the blessed Coast to add that you might live on it for ten years and see no such misplaced rain.  The winters, with their long and amiable rains, would have been a paradise to the frogs of Homer, and they would have broken forth in Greek more eloquently than ever: "brek-ek-ek-koax-koax."  But riding through the valleys in the summer, where it has been as dry as the shower on the old cities of the plain, you will marvel at the glossy green and fresh look of shrub and tree, as if everything, like the rose of the "English Reader," had been washed,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"just washed in a shower,<LB>That Mary to Anna conveyed."<LB></HI>
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100.sgm:<illus entity="a100-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">IN DETAIL</HI>
100.sgm:<P>A DEAD LIFT AT A LIVE WEIGHT.</P>
100.sgm:<P>At last, on a slippery grade, the near-wheeler sat down, inserted two feet between the spokes of a fore-wheel, two more right under the vehicle, and had he been as well off for legs as a house-fly, and had another couple, they would probably have got into the carriage.  As it was, they were distributed about like the multiplied codicils of a legacy.  That wagon was emptied as green peas pursued by a thumb-nail fly out of a pod, and there they stood like so many bedraggled poultry, all but one mother and two chickens who scudded away through the driving rain to a distant cabin for help.  I wish to place it upon record just here, that in fifty or sixty years that mother will "with the angels stand," for if anything will dispose a woman to wickedness it is when she gets damp around the ankles, and her skirts swash about her footsteps like a frantic dishcloth, and her watery gaiters squeak as she walks like a morsel of cheese curd.  When we overtook her the bright smile that she wore should have kindled a rainbow.</P>
100.sgm:<P>There lay twelve hundred pounds of horse and no derrick.  The party stood about like monuments dripping in the rain, while the many-sided man addressed himself to the stern reality of the occasion, or to be accurate, of the wheeler dormant.  He bowed himself like Samson <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The next morning was a delight.  The valley swept out twelve miles to the mountains that were draped in their Sunday blue.  For the first time in my life I walked among the peach's first-cousins, the almond trees, the orchard of Ecclesiastes, but the blossoms had ceased to shine, and the limbs were full of fruit.  Five varieties of stately oaks stood around the house, but the live-oak was the grandest.  Spanish moss hung in festoons and lambrequins of gray lace from the limbs, and solemnly swung in the morning air.  They gave a weird and graceful, but a sad look to the landscape, and reminded me of faded mourning, draping some old manorial hall for the dead lord or the lost lady.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"O, the mistletoe bough!" and there it is.  All about upon the oaks hang globes of the Druidical parasite, like orreries of green planets, and I felt that I was in a foreign land.  I had seen a parasite in the army that showed gray on the blue blouse, but failed to show well; and a parasite at the table of his friends; and never one before that kindled a spark of poetry; but those little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:emerald worlds on the oaks lighted the way through the halls of deserted years, and with the Hebrew backward step I walked near enough to hear a voice, clear as a meadow lark's, strike up, when that old song was new,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The mistletoe hung in the castle hall,<LB>The holly-branch shone on the old oak wall,"<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>but the cry of "All aboard!" scared the voice away, and the light of the green planets went out.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The children of the party gathered a heap of moss that would fill a bed fat enough for a Mohawk Dutchman, in the vain hope of carrying it home.  Do you know that children are capital baggage to take along upon a journey?  They <HI REND="italics">ballast</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The contrasts of scenery in California are as wonderful as if you should enter a house by one door and leave it all wilderness and winter in the front yard, then go out at another to find it all summer and flowers in the garden.  I had such a transition within an hour.  We climbed along the edges and shelves of rugged mountains, above rivers in everlasting quarrel with ragged rocks; below heights walled up with stone ruins from the beginning, and finished out with the shaggy, russet backs of a thousand dromedaries; meeting nobody but horsemen with lariats swinging at their saddles; seeing no human dwelling; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Santa Rosa is a city lost in a flower-bed.  You can find it by climbing a rose-tree as high as a house, and obeying Sir Christopher Wren's marble injunction, "Look around!"  It has a congregation of three or four hundred, that, like <HI REND="italics">Zaccheus</HI>
100.sgm:<P>And then you cross a street to see a friend of childhood, a bush that grew by the roadside and showed its sweet white umbrellas of flowers in spring, and its dark red berries in fall, whereof a wine was brewed, harmless as the milk of old Brindle; a bush of whose wood you made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>You traverse the Santa Clara Valley, where adobe dwellings linger still, through Alameda avenue of poplars and willows planted by Jesuit hands a century ago, to San Jose&acute;, and from the vantage-ground of the Court-House dome you see the horizon of mountains rising, sinking, receding, nearing, like the billows of the sea, and just one little way through, down the royal road you came; and circled by that turbulent horizon, you look down upon a thousand square miles of semi-tropic beauty.  You see the sinless inhabitants of the Indies, Australia, Mexico, the Sandwich Islands and Peru, from the stately palm with such a far-away look that it would hardly surprise you to see a castled elephant move out from its shadow, to the painted leaves of Brazil, appearing as if leopards and tigers had lain down upon them and printed them off in duplicate.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You look down upon the <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
100.sgm: which is the public square, rich as the National Conservatory with foreign loveliness.  You gaze away at the checker-work of ranches which are farms.  The mallows--the humble thing that grew about your feet in the East, with its tiny blossoms no bigger than a vest button, the dairy plant of childhood, whence you used to gather the little green "cheeses"--is grown into a tree, and the birds'-eyes of flowers have flared out like wild roses, and challenge you on tip-toe to reach them.  Booted boys swing by vines an infant could have broken.  You look at familiar things through a mysterious magnifier.  Like urchins you have not seen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>A Yankee examines the soil and despises it.  He prefers the hillsides of Stonington.  The man from Illinois prairies, who lugs a couple of pounds of mud into the house to his wife every time it rains, remembers his level acres in their total eclipse of Ethiopian richness, and regards with contempt the tawny, dusty landscape before him.  He shall see it in winter time, when the Lord works miracles with the treasures of His clouds; when the miracle at the wedding in Cana, where "the conscious water knew its God and blushed," grows familiar and annual, and the water is turned into the wine of the vine, yea, into <HI REND="italics">bread</HI>
100.sgm:<P>And writing of times so long gone they get new.  You may see at the United States mint in San Francisco a golden spoon, of as quaint and delicate workmanship as any of the trinkets of Her Majesty of Sheba.  Its bowl is a leaf, and its handle the wreathed stem it grew on.  It is frail and exquisite enough for the tea-set of young Cupid.  Now the numismatist, if that is the man and I have not mistaken the name, declares he has evidence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:that the spoon was among the belongings of Solomon!  If so, have those pennyweights of pale gold come back at last, after all the centuries, to their native land?  Did Solomon's ships ever beat up the Pacific coast, and lie off and on in sight of the sands of San Francisco?  As the Spanish would say, <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Cherry ripe!" her lips do cry, and here you are in one of the great cherry orchards of California.  The trees are shaped like little Lombardy poplars, with dense dark foliage growing down the trunks like green pantalettes.  You see thousands of them of as uniform height as the Queen's Highlanders.  The inevitable John is picking the fruit and white men are boxing it for market, in black, red and gold tinted mosaics.  They handle each cherry tenderly as if it were glass.  Twenty tons have been forwarded, and they will gather thirty more during the season.  By the little hatchet of Washington, fifty tons from a single orchard, and not a cherry too many, at the highest of prices.  What an Eden for the robin to rob in!</P>
100.sgm:<P>One or two of the party who disposed of a dollar's worth of rubies at a sitting, suffered a slight unpleasantness that could have been covered by an apron without being alleviated.  Those cherries tasted like the little book that John the Revelator ate, "sweet as honey," but--alas!</P>
100.sgm:<P>There is a thistle.  At least it would be in the East, and the farmer would be after it with the hoe of destruction, but here it has expanded and brightened into a brilliant scarlet flower, large and handsome enough to trick out a general's chapeau with a feather.  Now, if a New York girl had that thistle she would welcome it to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:her flower-garden, give it a new name ending in <HI REND="italics">"ie</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The air is sweet with the yellow glory of the Scottish broom and strange with the odor of the Australian eucalyptus, with its leathery leaves held both sides to the light; a tree that does not grow soberly, but <HI REND="italics">springs</HI>
100.sgm: to the height of fifty feet while your boy is reaching three.  The valley is Elysian, the day is Halcyon, as we set forth for a mountain ride.  The grain in green, yellow, white and gold unrolls on every hand.  We pass farm after farm rich with the evidences of high cultivation, and not a laborer in view; home after home with their broad verandas, and window and door wide open, and not a soul in sight.  Horses by scores, cattle by hundreds, sheep by thousands, and not a master or a shepherd visible.  Flowers that seem to be keeping house, their pleasant faces toward the road; vines that show the gentle lead of woman's hand, and not a chick of a child or a flirt of a petticoat.  It is as if everybody had gone in a minute, "died and made no sign."  Notwithstanding the lovely landscape and the bright air, a feeling of loneliness "o'ercomes you like a summer cloud"--and an <HI REND="italics">imported</HI>
100.sgm:<P>ON THE HIGH SEAS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The road grows narrower and more rugged.  We go down ravines that spread out into little bays of greenery, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:and then commit suicide by throttling themselves into gorges.  We begin to climb.  The mountains grow saucier and wilder.  They act as if they would be glad to shoulder us out of existence.  The ledge of a road is notched into precipices that tumble a thousand feet down.  It looks like a clock-shelf.  It is now rock at the right, abyss at the left, and now rock at the left, abyss at the right.  The mountains are executing a solemn dance, and as they cross over and back we are lost in the mazes of the measure.  Tall trees lift their crowns almost within reach, as if they grew from the under-world.  Somewhere below, their roots are holding on with the clutch of a mighty hand.  Rocks hang poised midway above, only waiting for the passage of the carriage to let all go, and be aerolites.  You fancy the tremendous ricochet when, with thunder and fire, they shall crash down the gulf, through splintering of timber as of hurricanes, and rushing of leaves as of driving rains.  Then come the zigzag lifts one after one, and when you reach <HI REND="italics">them</HI>
100.sgm:<P>You see that little nick on the brow of a loftier Alp, like the scar of a sabre-stroke on a trooper's forehead.  That little nick is the road you are going!  It is getting to be nervous work.  In places, you can drop a lead and line plumb down from the wagon's side into the sunless depth.  All along, fearless flowers, the Indian pinks, the wild roses, the honeysuckles, the violets, the azaleas, the blue-bells, the giant asters, cling within reach of your hand on one side, and smile in their still way as if they said, "Who's afraid?" but on the other--thin blue emptiness.  The old familiar horizons, that have always clasped you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>THE HOG'S BACK.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Five miles across, and apparently within the toss of a stone, is the Hog's Back, a spine of a mountain bridging the valley from side to side, and standing at an angle of forty degrees.  Some hirsute keeper of swine must have named this gigantic highway.  It is complimentary to the hog, but a libel on the mountain.  Think of a mastodon weighing a hundred million tons forever crossing the valley and never leaving it, his gray sides and ridged back lifting vast and bare amid the visible thunders of the gorges--for have you not seen mountains that <HI REND="italics">looked</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The road comes to emphatic pauses before and above you.  It runs out into the air every little way, and disappears like a whiff of yellow dust.  You meet it coming back with a bewildered look on the other side of a gorge, as if it were lost or discouraged, and were making the best of its way home.  You are sorry for the road and a little sorry for yourself, but you double back on the trail as if the dogs were after you in full cry, and follow on.  Some of the party are afraid to look down and afraid to look up, but nobody is reluctant to look off.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:is going to sea without leaving the shore. At intervals there are ticklish turnouts projected over the precipice, with exactly as much railing to them as there is to Cape Horn, where you doubt whether you want either the rock side or the air side.  What if we meet somebody on the tape-line of a road between!  And we do!  Around that headland come a pair of noses, and there is a simultaneous cry of "team!"  The witch of Endor would have been a more welcome apparition, for we could have driven <HI REND="italics">through</HI>
100.sgm: her and not broken a bone.  The noses' owners tugged a wagon into sight with a man and woman in it.  It looked like a dead-lock.  Were it not for somebody else the writer might have been there yet.  You should have seen them lift that wagon, woman and all, and set two wheels of it just over the edge of the precipice.  Had so much as an <HI REND="italics">eye</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Then we made a plunge down the road, and began to learn our letters on the other side of the mountains.  It was the mightiest hornbook that ever went without covers.  hey many-sided man had a foot on the brake, for they drive with brakes and not with reins in California, and the horses traveled around the outer edge of visible things with great humility.  In these tremendous ups and downs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>THE GEYSERS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>HAVING ridden for hours the mountains' heavy seas, all at once, with slackened trace and tightened rein and brake hard down, we begin to sink without drowning.  It is something like driving a four-in-hand of nightmares.  Down we go, a thousand feet a mile, now circling a hill, now balancing as if on the left wing and now on the right; then with swift dashes and pounces, another thousand feet another mile, and then a final plunge, and we bring up with a rattling of bolts, a jingling of chains and a sense of satisfaction at the mouth of Pluton Can&tilde;on, and in front of a spacious hotel, with its broad hospitable verandas, and its doors and windows all set wide in welcome, like so many pleasant faces under two rows of broad-brimmed hats.  In all California you will find no house of refuge combining more of restful comfort, courteous attention, lavish abundance, and the neatness of a young Quakeress.  Amid great oaks and beautiful flowers stands the very inn the poet Shenstone would have loved.</P>
100.sgm:<P>So this is The Geysers.  You have descended to it with a bold flight, and it is seventeen hundred feet yet to the level of the Pacific.  You are in a nook of the world.  Around you the mountains lift three and four thousand feet above the sea, and watch each other across <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>You stand upon the bridge and look.  The mountain seems shut before you, and no "Sesame" at hand wherewith to open it.  But you listen.  The rumble of a gristmill, the tumble of a water-power, the hissing of an engine, the bubble of boiling caldrons, the jar of a distant train.  It is as if the murmuring echoes of a live world were locked up in the heart of these mountains, and the disembodied voices were clamoring for escape.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>A sudden turn, and the mouth of the can&tilde;on swallows you before you have quite made up your mind that "Barkis is willing."  You follow the crooked trail and reach the Geyser River, warm for water but cool for tea, that seems in a tumultuous hurry to get away, for it tumbles down the giant stairs like the rabble rush of an unruly school.  The great green bay-trees, that flourish like the wicked, roof you in.  The crooked way grows narrower and wilder.  You enter a craggy grotto of romance, and from ledge to ledge pursue your upward way.  The California fashion of giving everything to the devil prevails here--a fashion "more honored in the breach than in the observance."  The air begins to smell like the right end of a lucifer match.  You are in the "Devil's Office."  It is an apothecary shop.  Epsom salts hang in crystals from the walls of rock; rows of mineral springs, some of sulphur, some of salt, a trace of soda here, of iron there, of alum yonder, each more unpalatable than the other, no matter which end of the stock you begin at.  Here is a stone pot of eyewater that, like the widow's cruse, never gives out.  People think it strengthens the eyes, and "as a man thinketh so <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
100.sgm:<P>GOING UP THE CAN&tilde;ON.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The narrow can&tilde;on opens like a fan.  Leaf and shrub disappear.  It is getting serious and sulphurous.  Rock and earth break out with a most extraordinary rash.  The whole family of sulphur, ates, ites and ets, black, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:yellow, white and red, are everywhere.  All tints of copper, all shades of iron, strong with ammonia, white with magnesia, gray with borax, crystal with alum.  It is as if there had been a universal wreck by earthquake of all the chemical warehouses in America, and the de&acute;bris had been tumbled into this can&tilde;on right over an everlasting furnace, and kept hot, the restaurants that promise "warm meals at all hours."  The rocks that bound the narrow gulf are as full of holes as a bank-swallows' village.  Puffs of steam issue from them like breath from the lazy nostrils of slumbering mastodons.  You are climbing all the while from crag to stepping-stone, up rude stairs of rock, around sharp angles, by boiling caldrons, over streams of smoking water.  The ground is hot under your feet.  Volumes of steam rise in everlasting torment.  Here at your right, in a room without a door, and no place for one, somebody is churning.  You hear the dull thud of the dasher.  You stand by a stone hopper whose jarring, rumbling jolt assures you they are grinding a grist that nobody has sent <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
100.sgm: for.  As for the miller, he is not in sight, and you are not curious.  His punch-bowl is even full, his alum kettle on the boil, it makes your mouth pucker to smell it; his arm-chair of solid rock is empty, and you occupy it, the only thing among his possessions you seem to covet, except his inkstand, a broad, liberal piece of furniture filled with a liquid as ebony as "Maynard and Noyes' best black."  We come to the miller's family kettle, the Witches' Caldron, twenty-five feet around, with a temperature of a couple of hundred degrees, and filled with a tumbling ocean of smut tea.  It is the busiest place you were ever in; a paradise of a kitchen for an imps' boarding-house.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Here is the escape-pipe of a Geyser steamboat.  It rejects the sticks and stones you throw into it, and blows off steam at times with great resentment.  They set it to playing a boatswain's whistle, but it piped "all hands on deck" so relentlessly by night and by day that the weary guests at the hotel, a half mile distant, petitioned that the miller's trumpeter be permitted to lick his lips and smooth them out of pucker for a long vacation.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The soles of your feet burn.  Some chemical rodents and mordants are gnawing at the leather.  And then you go up a flight of stairs cut and nicked in the face of a rocky promontory, and climb to the top of a stone column with a pulpit upon it a hundred feet high, and rugged as any a persecuted old Covenanter ever preached from.  A flag-staff is set up therein, but the flag that floated there grew as yellow in the brimstone as a pestilence signal, and frittered away.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Not satisfied with endowing Satan with everything, they have proceeded to ordain him, for this is the Devil's Pulpit.  You gaze down from the lofty look-out upon a winding hall sloping rapidly away toward the bottom of the can&tilde;on, and showing the unrailed galleries and slippery stairways whereby you came, and all one blotch of confused colors like a wagon-painter's shop-door.  You look through spirals, wisps and clouds of steam, of whiffs from rocks that have sat down on themselves and fallen to smoking their pipes.  Your mouth tastes as if you had lunched from a box of matches.  You smell as if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:you had been out in Sodom's brimstone rain without an umbrella.  You feel as if you had escaped from Tophet's open mouth; and if not quite so intensely, then as if you had been basted with brimstone for the cutaneous effects of that uneasy animal called <HI REND="italics">acarus scabiei</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The scene is weird.  Macbeth's witches, <HI REND="italics">any</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Then catching up the broken thread of the trail, you descend into the unshapely dish of a dead volcano.  You walk on the lava beds where the earth yields noiselessly to your foot.  A cane is thrust into it as easily as into so much bakers' dough, and when withdrawn a puff of steam lazily follows.  It would hardly surprise you to hear a discontented snore at the disturbance.  One of the ladies cries "Don't," and you don't.  The volcano may not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>People come here and take a hurried look.  They lift their skirts, and worry about their boots, and fresh from Icelandic Geyser pictures with their hundred feet of columned water, they think this but a wreck of a chemist's kitchen.  But let them linger; see that mountain fairly cleft from peak to lowest depth; watch these rocky books rent from their covers and tumbled into heaps of chaos; sift through their thoughtful fingers the pale affrighted dust of stone, ground fine as pollen from a flower; struggle around these quaking, trembling, rumbling, stifling crags and peaks, like a little steamboat shaking with the ague of an engine too big for its body; think of these mountains "rock-ribbed and ancient as the sun," riddled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>BEAUTY IN THE CAN&tilde;ON.</P>
100.sgm:<P>But even the grimmest deep of the can&tilde;on gives birth to beauty.  I first saw the steam's white plumes drooping and drifting away over a mountain shoulder, and touched with the morning sun.  There was the suspicion of a bow of promise on the clouds.  I saw them again when the day went down the western slope.  Ther was a flush of glory on the smokes of the old camp-fires.</P>
100.sgm:<P>And all around this place are nooks and alcoves, picturesque and beautiful.  There is one, "The Lovers' Rest," a sort of shrine beneath the laurel's royal roof, where sun and shade play hide-and-seek together, and floor the alcove with curves of green and gold.  It hangs like a balcony above the Pluton River, whose voice comes up with laughter from its rocky street.  Vines drape the trees, and wild flowers smile from rugged clefts and swing above the water.  Gray rocks lie quietly about like flocks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>It was just here that an anniversary overtook us so strictly personal that the writer hesitated to name it, until he remembered it was an offense he could commit but once in a quarter of a century.  His Silver Wedding-day found him and his at the Geysers, and their kind fellow mountaineers made it memorable with cordial words and pleasant deeds, and under the shade of the laurel, the voice of mountain birds and Geyser river clear and strong, the air bright with sun and sweet with flowers, the seventh of June straight down from Heaven, the wedding feast set forth, the valued friends around, these lines, written where the miner's wash-bowl used to be in the old song, "upon my knee," were read, and then "The Lovers' Rest" was left to its loveliness and loneliness, and the wedding guests are scattered from the Atlantic to the Pacific.  "Here's a health to them that's awa'!" <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Five and twenty years ago<LB>And two thousand miles away,<LB>With a mingled gleam and glow<LB>As of roses in the snow.<LB>Shines a day!<LB>Only day that never set<LB>In all this world of sorrow,--<LB>Only day that ever let<LB>Weary, wayside hearts forget<LB>To-morrow.<LB>All the world was wondrous fair<LB>To the bridegroom and the bride,<LB>With the lilacs in the air<LB>And the roses all at prayer<LB>Side by side.<LB>In the door stood golden day,<LB>Washed the noon-mark out with light,<LB>Larks half sang their souls away--<LB>Who dreamed the morning would not stay<LB>Until night?</HI>
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100.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Dim and bright and far and near<LB>Is the homestead where we met--<LB>Friends around no longer here,<LB>Rainbow light in every tear--<LB>Together yet!<LB>Ah, the graves since we were wed<LB>That have made that June day dim--<LB>Golden crown and silver head<LB>Always dying, never dead,<LB>Like some hymn--<LB>Some sweet breath of olden days:<LB>Lips are dust--on goes the song!<LB>Soft in plaint and grand in praise,<LB>Living brooks by dusty ways<LB>All along!<LB>Wandered wide the loving feet,<LB>Some have made the lilies grow,<LB>And have walked the golden street<LB>Where the missing mornings meet<LB>From below.<LB>Night the weaver waits to weave,<LB>Facing north I see unfurled<LB>Shadows on my Eastern sleeve--<LB>Crape of night, but never grieve<LB>For the world.<LB>Now, dear heart, thy hand in mine,<LB>Through clear and cloudy weather,<LB>Crowned with blessings half divine<LB>We'll drink the cup of life's old wine<LB>Together.<LB>In this "Lovers'" perfect "Rest,"<LB>Beside the Geyser river,<LB>Where mountains heap the burning breast<LB>Of giants with the plumy crest<LB>Forever,<LB>New friends grace this Silver Day,<LB>Apples gold in pictures fair,<LB>Bringing back a royal ray<LB>From the everlasting May<LB>Over there.<LB>We lift the prayer of tiny Tim,<LB>"God bless us every one!"<LB>Crown life's goblet to the brim,<LB>While across its Western rim<LB>Shines the Sun.<LB></HI>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>THE PETRIFIED FOREST.</P>
100.sgm:<P>DELIGHTFUL as it is to go a-gypsying by private conveyance, you want a touch of the four or six-in-hand broad mountain stages, good for a dozen and no crowding.  I had such an experince with W. C. Van Arnim, a knight of the road, not a brigand, but master of the whip and ribbons.  He can play on the reins as if they were harp-strings.  He gathers them up until he feels every mouth with his fingers, and is <HI REND="italics">en rapport</HI>
100.sgm:, as the mesmerizers say, with all of the six.  Then that whip throws out fifteen feet of lash with an electric explosion at the end of it done up in a silk snapper, and he flicks the near leader's ear as accurately as you can lay an argumentative point on one thumb-nail and secure it with the other.  The team gives a step or two of a dance, and is off.  It plunges up the pitches like a charge of cavalry.  It dashes around the capes as swallows over a mill-pond.  The leaders have doubled a cape that juts out above a precipice.  The wheelers are making straight for the chasm at a swinging trot.  The leaders are <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
100.sgm:<P>And yet it is wonderful to see the earth letting itself down two thousand feet, and holding on with scarred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Yonder are four great S's in a row, two boldly curving toward the gulf, and two hugging the mountain with the convex side.  We strike the first and swing in on a scurrying trot; the next and sweep out; and so till we have dashed off the S's.  It is alcove and column, column and alcove; we whirl around the cornices and dodge into the recesses, but the gulf fits the scallop like a glove.  There is no getting rid of it.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You say to Van Arnim in a deprecatory way, a sort of pray-don't-laugh-at-me air, "Isn't the road pretty narrow?" giving a furtive look at the wheel under your hand, that rims along the very selvedge with a little crumbling craunch.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"I have all I can use," is the common-sense reply, as he touches up the off leader.  By-and-by we meet a heavily-laden wagon in the narrowest of places.  Its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>"Well," says our driver in a generous way, "which side of the road do you want?  Take your choice, and get out of the middle of it."  That sounds fair, but then--.  At last, after some backing and sheering and muttering, the wagon is shelved, and the stage just sways astride of the gulf's brink and pulls through.  Who ever heard of breaking a precipice to the saddle!  And so, up and down, in and out, over and under, we go.  It is as graceful as flying.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The road from the Geysers to Cloverdale is like the undulations of a strain in Homer.  I think a Grecian could learn to scan it.  And there were curious things on the way.  Perched upon a tree over the road is a specimen of the peacock of the West--a rare bird, and larger than an ostrich.  This one had been repeatedly shot at by ardent tourists, but they never ruffled a feather.  It is perched there yet.  It is a formation of a redwood limb, and a most remarkable portrait, even to the tail and the detail of Juno's favorite poultry.  Farther on, at the left of the road, is a lean mountain, its spine showing sharp as a wedge, and gaunt as a starved wolf.</P>
100.sgm:<P>At the end of this spine, about five hundred feet in the air, is the profile of a Turk.  The face is about five yards long--face enough for a vender of lightningrods.  The low forehead, the aquiline nose, the moustached lip, the imperial on the chin, and even the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:eyelashes, are plainly seen without the help of keen optics <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"To see things not to <HI REND="italics">be</HI>
100.sgm: seen."<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>The whole is surmounted by the folds of a turban wound about with Oriental grace, and Nature has thrust a little evergreen in it for a plume--or for a joke, either or both.  What innumerable rains have trickled down that patient nose, is the first thought; and the second, what touches of wind and water have shaped those features into everlasting immobility; of what earthquake shock was that old man of the mountain born, who keeps endless watch and ward over the brawling can&tilde;on.  It might have been there when King Alfred was making lanterns.  And it is less than a dozen years since the Turk swelled the census by one.  When the laborers were building the road, the foreman used to watch the cliff as you would the gnomon of a garden dial for the time.  The sun struck a little promontory at eleven o'clock, and one day, in an instant, he discovered the whole face, and found it was the tip of another man's nose across which he had been taking sight for noontime.</P>
100.sgm:<P>We rattle down the last declivity of the mountain, ford the Russian River, and are again within lightning-stroke of the world; for yonder is a telegraph wire, and this is Cloverdale and dinner, where the food was cooked first, and the guests were cooked just after they arrived.  The landlord, who called himself a double-headed Dutchman, which means he was High and Low, if not Jack and the Game, had hidden his thermometer for the comfort of his patrons, but it would have read the temperature up to par in the shade; if it could read at all.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The day we reached the Petrified Trees was a <HI REND="italics">glarer</HI>
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100.sgm:<P>Now there was a lady in the party as active as an antelope and enduring as young hickory.  In the best of senses she would make a "daughter of the regiment," that would carry the boys by storm if the enemy failed.  Sparkling with vivacity, ready to scale a mountain or catch a chicken, she was an antidote to the blues and a dyspepsia exterminator.  Baron Munchausen would have delighted in her, not because she told stories, but because she told facts as if they were fictions.  "Billy" was especially deputed to meet this lady, and they met.  The meeting was touching in the extreme.  She sprang from the wagon and grasped him saucily by his venerable beard--a salutation to which he sternly replied with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>A kind of reception-room--or, to carry out the figure, a receiving-vault--is filled with curiosities of redwood mortality.  He is a coiled snake, the blood-vessels distinct, every detail perfect, struck with petrifaction while taking a nap.  Twigs, walking sticks, knots, bark, all as stony as if Medusa had given them one of her lithographs of a look.  There is no revelry here.  You would as soon think of waltzing with a mummy that had dined once or twice with one of the Pharaohs.  Around us are wooded mountains that shorten the sunshine a couple of hours every day, relieving the place of a whole month of glow and glare in a year.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You climb rocky paths, and up and down over knobs and knolls of bare earth, grass and shrub, and reach the cemetery, a rough area of twenty acres, where three hundred stone redwoods--sequoias--lie head down from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>You clamber upon a fallen monarch with its thirty-four feet girth and sixty-eight feet exhumed.  Here are the bark, the scars, the knots, as in life, and its rings chronicle a thousand years!  In its glory it must have been two hundred feet high.  Where are the birds to fit this monster--the birds that nested in its branches--and what their length and strength of wing and talon?  The breezes that waved its foliage may have been dead five centuries when the little fleet of Admiral Columbus felt for wind with their mildewed sails in 1492.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Some of the trees were scathed by flames before they put Insurance Agents at a discount and became fire-proof, and here are blocks of charcoal turned to stone.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:out of the fierce North, were those gigantic corpses of ashen gray uprooted and swept South?  Did a volcano shroud them in immortality?  Did a cloud from some mysterious alembic chill and deaden them to stone?  If these desolate heaps of flint and pebbly sand and thin pinched soil were once a volcano's troubled mouth, the furnace fires went out perhaps before the Conqueror's curfew rang in Saxon England.  What a rocking of the cradle there must have been when the earth quaked, and lava put these trees in flinty armor, and transfused their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:veins with dumbness!  If Agassiz could have been pilgrim here before he went abroad, we might have known-- <HI REND="italics">perhaps</HI>
100.sgm:<P>You pick up chips that are rocks, write your name upon bark as upon a slate, and your first feeling as you traverse the graveyard is disappointment.  But the grandeur of the scene grows upon you as you look and think.  Here is something out of the common reckoning.  The silence of the place is eloquent as speech.  These headlong trees are the heroes of old elemental wars.  They are dead on the field.  They are pre-historic giants.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Young oaks, but older than the Declaration, have crowded up through the shattered and helpless dead.  They exult amid the wrecks of a grander time, like young Mariuses amid Rome's ruins.  They are the living dogs, and are they not better than the dead lions beneath them?  Then, all at once, it occurs to you that these redwoods are the fallen columns of classic temples, "God's first temples."  What would you not give to know the story of this necromantic place!  Did any eye that ever wept in human sympathy behold the transformation?  Did mortal music ever ring amid the columned arches of this wood?  Who sang, what tongue, what theme?</P>
100.sgm:<P>You turn from the rent and rigid earth, no springs of living water at your feet, no shadow overhead; from a spot where some mysterious force in the gone ages cried "halt!" to life--and life, with pulses turned to rock and pliant limb to adamant, obeyed.  Life halted, but death did not succeed it; death which is change, which falters at time's touch into dust that is driven to and fro of winds in helpless, hopeless atoms.  They are old as the hills, and yet were born into the knowledge of modern man but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Altogether, to a thoughtful man, the Petrified Trees are the most impressive things in California.  They over whelm your vanity with gray cairns of what once danced in the rain, whispered in the wind, blossomed in the sun.  We need not go to the realms of spirit to apply the words of Hamlet.  The royal Dane would have said them here had he walked in this graveyard: "There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamed of in our philosophy!"</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>HIGHER AND FIRE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>THE Russian River Valley is fertile as Egypt and fair as Italy.  It is two hours from San Francisco, but two weeks nearer the Equator.  We halted at Healdsburg, a pleasant town that gave us a welcome warm enough to cook an omelet.  "Sotoyome" names a hotel, but as it means valley of flowers, it might well christen the whole region.  We stopped at the "Sotoyome."  There is a funny little affectation of grandeur in the way of announcing arrivals at modern caravansaries.  Thus you read that A B has "taken rooms" at the Cosmopolitan.  You call on A B, and you find him in number 196, fourth floor back, quite above the jurisdiction of the State, and higher than you have ever gotten since you took the pledge; one chair, one pillow, and eyed like a Cyclops with one window; a room as hopelessly single as Adam seemed in his bachelorhood.  But "rooms" is statelier, and we all enjoy it except A B, who skips edgewise to and fro between trunk and bed, as if he were balancing to an invisible partner.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The Russian River, which is not a rushing river in Summer, courses its way oceanward.  This country has a history.  As late as 1845 the Russians laid claim to it and erected a fortress and raised wheat, and placed a tablet upon Mount Saint Helena that shows his blue-caped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Thermometers run highest in low latitudes.  Once find out that people Atlanticward go into country places to get cool, and you may be sure that on the Pacific they will travel in the opposite direction for the same purpose.  They do.  We had left blankets by night and flannels by day for several degrees of the temperature that all Christians pray against.  That ambitious young man, Longfellow's Excelsior, must have fired the mercury with a passion to look down upon him.  It ran up the degrees as the nimblest member of Hook-and-Ladder Company Number One climbs a ladder at a fire.  It stood on the hundredth round in the shade, and everybody shed his coat and jacket.  Like an onion, he came off rind by rind.  He husked himself like an ear of corn.</P>
100.sgm:<P>I sat under the vine and fig-tree of a friend--it was a Smyrna fig and full of fruit, and I fancied I was in Smyrna.  "In the name of the prophet, figs!"  His first look at a fig-tree takes a man back to the day when, with his two unclouded eyes even with the counter, like a pair of planets just ready to rise, he produced a cent and demanded a fig.  There were more cents'-worths of comfort in that drum of figs than in a whole orchestra to-day.  The tree was Eve's live clothes-line.  She found her aprons on it, though she never hung them there.  Its name has been upon the Savior's lips.  It is a Bible tree.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>Oranges were ripening near by.  I made believe I was in Florida.  The thermometer went up to 106&deg;, and I saw a cactus that had grown by diagonals, until the topmost pin-cushion was eighteen feet from the ground, and edged with a fringe of pink tassels of flowers, and I dreamed I was in the Bishop's garden in Havana.  The silver marrow in that glass spine stood at 110&deg;, between two thicknesses of trees and a vine.  A thermometer is a damage in hot weather.  It heats and aggravates the observer with a sort of metallic maliciousness.  I put it in the sun to kill it.  There it stood, straight as a bamboo, not ten feet from my chair, and grew to 140&deg; in six minutes, and was as sound as ever.  I brought it back in my wrath and watched it go down, and so did a crimson linnet who sat on a cherry-tree, with his wings at trail arms and his mouth open.  The volatile god sank to 110&deg; and--stood still.  I thought of going for a piece of ice to make him reasonable; thought if I could only see that glittering column at a comfortable ninety, I should be more comfortable myself.  There was a pomegranate in bright blossom at my left, and a nectarine doing its best, and I was away in Palestine in a minute.  That thermometer embraced the opportunity to try another round, and stood at 112&deg;.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A tree with its fruit of violet green was not far off.  It was an olive.  Noah had seen a branch from another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:just like it, borne back by the bird to the boat that was waiting for land.  It has ever been the emblem of peace since it brought joy to the heart of the first Admiral that ever floated.  What are olives in pickle and olives in oil to the living tree!  And while I was gone to Italy, the mercury watched its chance and the premium on quick-silver was fourteen per cent.  It stood at 114&deg;.  I looked between the trees upon the <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
100.sgm:<P>As I went that two rods, and it seemed as if my umbrella would wilt like a poppy, I understood for the first time the dignity of the African potentate, one of whose titles is "Lord of the Four-and-Twenty Umbrellas."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>It helped me, too, when a lady of our party, a moral niece of George Washington, and as incapable of telling a lie as her uncle was, assured me that it has been hotter out of the place that the Three Worthies occupied, and in this region also, than we were being "done brown" in; that she saw a little prisoner of a ground-squirrel, whose cage was hung in the sun against a wall and forgotten, actually melted to death by the blaze, like a candle in the fire.</P>
100.sgm:<P>How much better we can bear other people's sorrows than our own!  How resigned we are at their bereavements, and how nobly we withstand their temptations!  If, with the same set of qualities, we could only be "other people," what a model of human kind every one of us would be!</P>
100.sgm:<P>Some fruit was baked on the sunny side, some flowers wilted, but altogether those furnace days spurred vegetation into a Canterbury gallop.  And the wind blew out of the North, and the harder it blew, the hotter it grew.  It was as enlivening as the Sirocco.  It was the Sirocco if it was not a Simoom.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>Going that two rods, I saw two young human animals; one had legs like a pair of parentheses (), and an abridgment of a blue calico frock; the legs of the other were straight as the arrows of Apollo, and her dress was bright and gauzy as a June cloud.  The first was a Digger Indian's papoose, with beady eyes, a crafty look, hair cat-black and "banged."  The last had eyes blue as a lupin and clear as a China saucer, wavy hair almost the color of corn silk, and the complexion of a sea-shell.  I felt in the case of the papoose that it would hardly be a sin to set a trap for it, and yet the dusky mother flung it over her shoulder and nursed it as if it were worth saving!  What numberless degrees between the pet and the papoose, and where shall we look for the link?  They were both fire-proof, played bare-headed in the sun and were not consumed.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A band of Digger Indians in the valley gave an opportunity for the pursuit of Natural History.  Several squaws were pursuing minute specimens of it also, as, like deck-passage ideas, they swarmed the heads of the papooses.  But there is no room for anything in the hold.  I saw foreheads belonging to stalwart fellows that were barely an inch high, and the hair grew boldly down, like a bison's, almost to the brink of the eyes.  It is surprising that John has not caught one of them and made an idol of him.</P>
100.sgm:<P>We hear of people dying violent deaths.  Under the impulsive temperature of some California valleys, I think it may be said that the animal and vegetable world live violent lives.  Something bit my hand under a snug kid glove one of those torrid days.  It was a vicious bite, sharp as a trout's.  The glove came off, and there was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:little beast that looked like a flax-seed, but the hot weather had given him the voracity and vivacity of a shark.  He didn't <HI REND="italics">mean</HI>
100.sgm:<P>We boys, you know, used to thrust a sprig of live-forever in the crack of the wall to see it grow, and thought it wonderful that a poplar whip or a currant slip would furnish its own root, and go into the business of independent living.  In California you can thrust a peach limb in the ground, and it will turn into a tree.  An old resident on the Pacific Coast and an older friend of mine, set a bit of a budded branch in the earth one November, and the next July it bore a peach as large as a big fist.  A cast was made of the prodigy, and when I saw it a sentiment of gratification possessed me that my cane is tipped with an iron ferrule, lest it should take root while I halt to greet a friend, and give me trouble!  If there is one place better than another for people given to lying, it is California; for no matter how strange the story they tell, it is pretty sure to be verified somewhere in the State.  Example: A calla-lily may be in full chalice out-of-doors, and the ocean fog may case its leaves in ice till it looks like a lily of glass and frail as a damaged reputation.  But that lily is no more harmed by it than it would be by a summer dew in New York.  The sun comes up and the ice melts, and the flower is as fresh as ever.  And thus you have a sort of January-and-June Millennium.</P>
100.sgm:<P>There is no gradual shading out of anything in California.  The rapidity of the contrasts is the wonder of them.  A boy is a man, a girl is a woman, before you know it.  You are kept in ceaseless astonishment because <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:everything young is so old, and everything old is so young.  It is quite impossible to tell what anything will be till it <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
100.sgm:<P>In San Francisco there is no long-subsiding Eastern twilight, that goes down like a great maple-and-hickory fire, to a bed of glow, then red shadows, then memory, then the dead past, then night, without startling you.  It is the turn of a wrist.  Day is shut off and darkness turned on.  You wake up in the night, and all at once it has got to be day.  There are no twilight lovers on The Coast.  The whispered momentous nothings, that seem to require a little toning down of the light in other countries, are uttered here in broad day, without so much as the protection of a parasol.  It is an open-handed, open-spoken, open-hearted land.  There are fewer back-doors than elsewhere.  Vice goes in and out of mansions whose tenants names are done in silver upon the panels of the front entrance: "Rose," "Jenny," "Kitty"; but not the names their mothers called them by, and a "rose by any other name smells" just the same.  People see more and look less than in lands nearer the North Pole.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Elsewhere people covet the shade.  Here they sit in the sun.  The beautiful parks where trees shed grateful shadows are not resorts, unless they can find some happy spot just ready to take fire with the noontide blaze.  They are baskers, and when the stranger thinks it a perfect temperature, San Francisco goes countryward to boil its blood down in a semi-tropical kettle, and make it a little thicker and richer.</P>
100.sgm:<P>And it was at Healdsburg that we got into the kettle!</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>A MINT OF MONEY.</P>
100.sgm:<P>MY rooms front a massive building of British Columbia and California granite.  Its severe and classic fac&cedil;ade with six huge stone columns like fluted and petrified pines, and its ponderous doors of iron, contrasts too violently with the light and uncertain architecture of a city of wood.  There is rock enough in the steps to make a score of Plymouths, a geological fragment that, according to the euphemism of the poet, "welcomed our sires."  It was about such a greeting as the royal boy with his clever sling and a paving-stone from the brook Kedron gave the giant.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The building is called by one of Juno's nicknames.  Like the modern young woman that can afford it, she had several surnames--her mother never knew the half of them,--and one of them was Moneta, corrupted by her intimate friends into "Mint."  When the C&aelig;sars and the gods were in power, money was coined in her temple at Rome, which was handy for her when Jupiter fulminated about her pin-money.  From this bit of Latin history anybody can see that it is the United States Temple of Juno of which I am writing.  It is one of the largest and most complete in the world.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Sometimes the gray front, as you watch it, takes a yellowish tint as if a marked case of jaundice had struck <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The precious metals are baking, boiling, frying, in the furnaces below.  To call the smoke golden is no fancy.  Little fortunes go up in those cloudy volumes sometimes.  The dust that had settled upon the asphalt roof of the Philadelphia Mint in a quarter of a century was recently removed, and almost a thousand dollars in gold and silver that had fallen out of the smoke were obtained.  But then you have seen plain blue smokes issuing from a man's mouth, that in three years carried off a thousand dollars, though not a dime of it ever fell anywhere.</P>
100.sgm:<P>I watched the Mint several days before I ventured to go into it, lest it might make me covetous, or avaricious, or discontented with the sort of postal-currency fortune <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:I possess.  There was always something going up and coming down that cruel pile of stone steps.  Every day, Express wagons and huge drays with elephantine horses came and went.  They brought tons of silver bricks and loads of gold bullion.  They drew away hundreds of thousands of dollars in coin.  I saw the great horses gather themselves up for a scratch of a pull when they started the solid load on the level pavement.  Every day, men and boys with shouldered canvas bags of coin went <illus entity="a100-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GOLDEN CATARACT OF THE DOOR STEPS</P>
100.sgm:up and down.  A bag of bullion on a shoulder is as common as a gold epaulette was in the Mexican war.  Every day a wooden spout, a great eaves-trough, was laid from the top of the steps to the waiting wagons, and bags of silver and boxes of gold were shot down the trough with a metallic chink sweeter to most ears than the chimes of old Trinity, until the great dray was packed as snug with bags as ever was a miller's wagon with flour.  I noticed that pedestrians hastening by came to a halt and helped me watch; that horsemen drew rein <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:and looked; that eddies of people whirled around the wagons and stood still, like friends reverently regarding the face of the dead; that little girls and boys ran up and down the steps beside the <HI REND="italics">auroduct</HI>
100.sgm:<P>For twenty-five years the Pacific Slope furnished four-fifths of all the gold produced.  For twenty-seven days of July, 1877, there were one hundred and sixty-five meltings of $60,000 each, giving sixty-six hundred ingots, or almost ten millions of gold.  During the four years ending July, 1877, thirty-five hundred and twenty-two tons of silver were received, and eight hundred and twenty-three tons of gold.  The coinage for 1876-7 reached fifty millions of dollars.</P>
100.sgm:<P>But you do not wait for me, but cross over to the Mint.</P>
100.sgm:<P>ALADDIN'S CAVE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You climb the pyramid of steps and enter halls and rooms that with their stone floors, walls and ceilings are rocky as the Mammoth Cave.  Everything reverberates.  The voice has a sepulchral ring.  If you can fancy a vehement ghost calling the cows, you know how it sounds.  Your gentle-spoken friend talks so loud you cannot hear him.  You are in the mill where money is made.  You see the raw material, fresh from the mines, piled around like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:bricks in a kiln.  They <HI REND="italics">are</HI>
100.sgm:<P>You get used to the solid real of poor Clarence's dream--"great heaps of gold"--in an astonishingly short time.  The avaricious man who sees blocks of silver piled as high as his head, and double bricks of yellow gold heaped about, is apt to swallow a little, as a hungry dog does when he sees his master eating a good dinner and never tossing him a bone.  But the ordinary soul grows familiar with it at once.  You see a million in one little windowless chamber, a half million in another.  You see it in grains, dust, ingots, chips, nuggets, bars.  You see scalloped sheets of silver and gold, resembling the tinner's scraps when he has been cutting out the bottoms of little patty-pans.  Out of them came the birds called eagles, and the bantam poultry of fives, trade dollars, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:halves, and the chickens of quarters and dimes.  You see little iron-wheeled one-man-power trucks called coaches, drawn about from room to room.  Here are two laden with gold bars.  You are engine enough to draw the two <HI REND="italics">en train</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Nothing here puzzles you like values.  They are condensed into a wonderfully small compass.  You are in the gold ingot room, and you pick up a bar about a foot long, an inch and a half wide, and three times as thick as the snug-setting maple ruler with which you used to be ferruled.  You could slip it up your sleeve if that gray-eyed man, who would be your "man of destiny" if you did it, were not looking at you.  You mentally cut it into eagles as you hold it, and it turns out sixty of them, but the melter quietly tells you it is worth fifteen hundred dollars.  I laid mine down immediately.  Diamonds never impress me at all.  When I hold one that is worth twenty thousand dollars, it inspires no respect.  I am not well enough acquainted with the pure carbon, but gold in any unfamiliar shape perplexes me.  You see little wedges of gold weighing five or six pounds, that could split a tough knot of financial difficulty for you without a blow of the beetle.  Here is gold in amalgam.  Quicksilver, or lead, or something base, lurks in it.  <HI REND="italics">Everything</HI>
100.sgm: that lurks is base.  It has about the glory of yellow ochre, and looks a little like a cake of beeswax.  The average weight of a silver bar is twelve hundred ounces.  If you can get away with one, you have stolen thirteen hundred dollars, but so long as it is bullion it is an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>IS IT WORTH IT?</P>
100.sgm:<P>Go down into the mine for treasure.  Consider the blasting, the digging, the groping in the sunless dens of Plutus.  Think of the slippery Grecian god, lame in the feet and slow to come to you; swift in the wing and fast to fly from you; blind in both eyes and weak in the head.  See the cradling, the panning, the crushing.  Hear the craunch of the quartz mills that grind the golden samp.  See it subjected to fire and water, moulded, weighed, stamped, packed on mules, borne in great wagons through gorges, down mountains, until at last, the next heaviest thing to sin, it is delivered at the Mint, to be turned into the magic something that will off-set all the products and possessions and covetings of man, from a violin to a vote.  There are four things it will not procure, because they are never for sale: honor, honesty, happiness, and content.</P>
100.sgm:<P>And here we will take it at the door of the Mint and follow it through sultry baths and glowing fires, and crushing presses and gentle touches, where strength handles it, and science assays it, and law adjusts it, and skill finished it into the sparkling clean-cut disc at last, and we shall say that the stricken coin is the perfection of human handiwork, and shall almost doubt whether it is worth the toil and time and danger it has cost.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You enter the Receiving Room, where the precious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>In twenty-seven days there have been nine hundred and sixty-seven deposits.  They involve eleven thousand six hundred and four records, entries, checks, tags.  They appear in all sorts of books, big and little, expressed in all sorts of ways; their chemical biography is written out, their weights and values are computed.  They assume Protean shapes.  They are solids, they are fluids, they are almost volatile.  They boil as water, they float as vapor, they bend as steel.  They change colors as chameleons.  There is a glass of green liquid--it is silver.  Here is a little bottle of red wine--it is chloride of gold.  It would cost eighty dollars and a life to drink it.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You follow a brick of gold into the Melting Department.  Here is weather for you!  The twelve furnaces are glowing all about you.  The iron eyelid of one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>WASHING DAY.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Gold and silver are in unsuspected places.  They are in the air, in the water, under foot.  There is little you can call "dirt" in most parts of the Mint without being guilty of a misnomer.  And just here we may as well gossip by the way about the curious domestic fashions within these walls.  For one of them, they wash their clothes once a year!  The rough dresses of the men in the furnace rooms, and out of which they husk themselves daily after the work is done, never leave the Mint after they enter it, until they have been washed span-clean.  The aprons worn by the seventy ladies--to whom you will be presented by-and-by--are also washed in the Mint laundry.  The method of washing is unique.  They just put them in the furnaces, and they are cleansed in a twinkling.  A ten-dollar suit may be worth five after it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>MIDAS'S KITCHEN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>But we are yet in the Melting Department, which <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
100.sgm: a melting department.  They take the pots of fluid gold and silver out of the fires with tongs.  They pour them into iron moulds.  They stamp them with a number.  They refresh them with a bath.  They scrub them with diluted sulphuric acid for soap, as zealous mothers wash their children on Saturday nights with Colegate and water.  They are ingots at last.  Here a man is sweeping up the dust and ashes before a furnace.  He is scraping out the dross from the empty crucibles.  They are ground under a pair of iron grindstones, called a Chile-mill.  It looks like an awkward cart forever starting to go somewhere and never going.  The crushed rubbish is swept out into copper wash-bowls, water is let on, and the old twirl of the pan clears the metal from dust and disguise.  It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>BRICKS AND HOOP-POLES.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Here are gold and silver bricks.  Two little chips have been nicked out by the assayer and tested.  He knows their fineness to a thousandth.  They are parceled out each with its little red copper cake and crumbs of alloy, that look good enough to be eaten.  They come out of the furnaces and turn into ingots which are rulers.  They are the color of Gunter's Scale, but four times as thick.  You follow them to the drawing room.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A wry-mouthed machine, looking as if an effort to laugh was distressing it, is waiting there for a bite at one end of each ingot.  The monster being satisfied, the unfortunate ingots are then run over and under by two cylinders, that draw them into hoops three and a half feet long and one and a half inches wide.  You fancy Bacchus's private keg might be girded with them.  They are locked up in copper tubes, that might be the corpses of telescopes, thrust into ovens and baked till the yellow gold is white with wrath and caloric.  They are relieved with a cold bath, which comforts you, and then are drawn into splendid ribbons, richer than any in the window of the Queen's milliner, and worth, some of them, five hundred dollars a yard.  Not satisfied yet, the workmen throw them into another annealing fever, to warm all the brittleness out of them.  Then they anoint the silver ribbons and wax the gold ones, that they may run without complaint between a pair of steel rollers that travel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The wheel of the magnificent engine in the Mint, the heart of all its mechanical motions, and as good as a team of two hundred and forty horses--an engine that looks like the portico of a Greek temple--that wheel weighs forty-five thousand pounds, and the double eagle in your pocket has more power than the wheel.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The little wheels are called planchets, but they resemble big blind buttons more than money; of course I mean buttons with no eyes.  You watch the four cutters that play like the tick of French clocks in a race.  See the silver for dimes dance out like rain drops, two hundred and sixty in a minute.  Watch the double eagles rattle down in a golden shower, at the rate of fourteen thousand an hour, two hundred and eighty thousand dollars in sixty minutes.  Yonder, smooth-faced quarters glitter like the scales on a whitefish.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The planchets pursue their pilgrimage to the washroom, that, with its copper tubs and steaming suds, is a great laundry.  Here their stupid faces are washed, then shuffled into pans filled with sawdust from the German linden, as country girls wash their faces in bran to get off the tan.  Then they are shoveled up and borne away to the Adjusters.  There are seventy of them and they are ladies.  There they sit in long rows before tables, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>You follow the planchets to the milling machine, where they are squeezed in a half circle of a waltz so vigorously as to raise the edge on the two sides of the coin.  In the Mint vernacular it has ceased to be a planchet and becomes a blank, takes another washing to make it tender-hearted, and here it lies at last with a face and no more metallic lustre in it than an ivory button.  It has been frightened white by an acid, and is ready for the great trial of its life.  It is to be coined.  There stands the machine to give "head and tail to it," endow it with the angel of Liberty on one side and the eagle on the other, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Yonder is a counting board.  It resembles a great motherly washboard.  It holds a thousand quarters in the furrows between the little ridges.  The coins are shoveled upon it, and the operator just shakes the board this way and that, and the glittering discs arrange themselves in columns as if they were alive.  The board is filled and he has counted a thousand in a minute; sixty thousand an hour.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Nothing impresses you so forcibly as the relentless pursuit of gold and silver, from rock to coin.  Science with its most delicate manipulations is put upon their track.  Silver is united with gold in a union apparently indissoluble.  Nitric acid is sent to look for it.  It eats it out of the gold, leaving its hiding place as porous as a sponge, and you have nitrate of silver.  It is yet as far off from being the familiar metal as a dish of soup <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The assay room is the Detective Office of Science.  It puts cheap rogues of chemicals together with suspected silver and gold.  When the rogues fall out, the treasure is detected, analyzed, rated.  You see pellets as big as a June pea in the bottom of little bone-ash cupels, which are nothing more than tiny flower-pots, about right for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>WEIGHING LIVE STOCK.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You see scales, the most delicate pieces of mechanism.  The wave of a butterfly's wing could blow the truth away from them.  They hang in glass houses of their own.  I said to Alexander Martin, Esq., the Master Melter and Refiner, who kindly exhibited the balance, and daintily picked up little weights of silver with steel fingers, six of which could be packed in a dewdrop, "Let us weigh an-- <HI REND="italics">animal</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Have you never thought that things may be so enormously little as to be tremendously great?  We go to the Assaying Department, where they weigh next to nothing and keep an account of it.  Here are scales where a girl's eyelash will give the index the swing of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>"THE GOLDEN DUSTMAN."</P>
100.sgm:<P>To go out at the door of the department of dust and ashes is an inglorious exit, but you are in the basement, surrounded by sheet iron pails and barrels filled with cinders, ashes, and broken crucibles.  It looks like the wreck and refuse of a fire.  A pair of great iron wheels, an overgrown Chile-mill, is grinding dirt.  If not that article, then you are no judge of it.  It is a mill where the grain is trash and the grist the ashes of mortification.  The courteous millers are clothed with them, but dispense with the sackcloth.  They are the sweepings of the floors, the scrapings of the crucibles, lumps of slag.  Possibly Dickens' golden dustman would offer one pound ten for the total contents, barrels and all.  Stray gold and silver have been searched out and chased all over the building, until it is fairly run to earth in the cellar.  Here the refuse is ground, drowned, sifted and washed, until the last precious grain that will come to terms here has surrendered.  The remainder is barreled, and probed and tested as they try butter in the firkin, and then sold to smelters and refiners.  In the year 1876-7 five hundred and forty-three barrels were sold, producing gold and silver worth seventeen thousand dollars.  Some one said to a card player with hands heavily shaded, "If dirt were trumps, what a hand you would have!"  Here dirt <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
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100.sgm:<P>As, standing in the engine room, you admire the elegant power that graces it--for, after all, what is handsomer than steel when wielded or fashioned in a good cause?--perhaps you see a tablet on the wall, bearing a medallion portrait, a name, some words of birth and death.  It is the record of the one sad event that forever connects itself with the Opening Day.  John Michael Eckfeldt, whose name you read, was the man who devised, arranged and adjusted much of the exquisite mechanism you have seen, and perfected its connections with this noiseless giant here; mechanism so wonderfully ingenious, faithful and true, that it fills this great building with the wit and force of two thousand busy men.</P>
100.sgm:<P>He had brought it all up to the starting point.  Band, shaft, axle, all in place.  It was an untried problem.  It had cost him toil, anxiety, sleepless thought.  Would it spring to harmonious life at the word of command, or would it jar horrible discord?  Ten o'clock one morning would have seen him a glad, exultant man.  But the more delicate and subtle machinery of his brain gave way too soon.  At eight o'clock that morning, he had gone beyond all earthly triumphs, and here these wheels revolve to-day, these engines do their perfect work.  It is the one story of human sadness linked with all this heartless mechanism and these glittering piles of gold and silver with their chill and pulseless touch.</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>BOUND FOR THE YO SEMITE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>BOUND for the Yo Semite!  In the Indian tongue the Great Grizzly Bear, but a zoological blunder, for among the zodiacal wonders of California it is "Leo the Lion."  Hardly had I reached the Coast before they began to say with all sorts of rising and falling slides known to wonder, surprise, persuasion, indignation: "What!  Not yet!"  "Not been to the Yo Semite?"  "Not going to the Yo Semite?"  "Leave California and not see the Yo Semite!"  I saw there might be a virture in not being a pilgrim to this Mecca of the mountains, and a chance for a bit of originality, but being equal to neither, I went.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Through the courtesy of Mr. Secretary E. H. Miller, jr., of the Central Pacific Railway, which means three thousand miles by rail and steamer, and Mr. O. C. Wheeler, and officer of the same great thoroughfare, who cleared the way with all sorts of "open sesames" known to liberal souls and gentlemen, we could have gone like the traveling preachers of the first century of the Christian era, with no scrip for the journey, nor "two coats apiece," unless a linen duster, the kind of shirt that strikes through your clothes and appears upon the surface like a case of well-developed nankeen night-gown, be a coat within the meaning of the sartorial statute.  The great steamer El <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>After a toaster of a night, the morning sun blazed us awake before light, as an Irishman would say.  The bulging hats of wasp's-nest gray, the leathern saddle-bags, the strapped blankets, the Babel tongues, proclaim tourists from many lands.  We have a special coach with a four-in-hand, and a four inside, and crack, dash, in a <HI REND="italics">feu-de-joie</HI>
100.sgm: of a style, and a cloud of tawny dust, away we go, and out upon a plain about as flat and dry as a Fifth-of-July oration.  Nobody could dream that this thirsty, dusty, stone-pelted plain would glow with green in the October rain, but it will.  You wonder where the ground squirrels, about the size of an Eastern gray, that track the desert everywhere, get their plumpness with such a dust-and-ashes fare, but somehow fatness has slipped out of their side pockets and lined their whole persons.  You wonder whether the poor hare in the distance, that one of a brace of dogs has just run down to death, is not a little glad for his tragic taking off.  You wonder where the hounds got their viciousness and vim.  The wind is astern and the dust travels with us, gets into the stage and rides.  The sun beats down and the earth strikes back.  Everybody's face is covered with maps of inky rivers.  We are a four-spot of dirty spades.  For once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:we "see oursels as ithers see us," for we all look alike.  One or two of us are in good order.  We have equatorial dimensions.  We clamber in and out of the coach like seals up and down a rock.  The curtains smell of leather, the wood-work smells of paint.  The rough road jolts depravity out of us.  Amiability is smothered like the little princes in the tower.  It costs nothing to be good when it <HI REND="italics">costs</HI>
100.sgm:<P>We meet a freighter with two wagons <HI REND="italics">en train</HI>
100.sgm:<P>We are stumbling over the toes of the foot-hills.  "Jem" is full of quaint phrases.  He says "the horses pant like lizards."  Watch that nimble fellow as he halts a minute on a rock, his sides palpitating in the sun, and you will see how true is the driver's simile.  He picks up his rhetoric as he goes along.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A jarring, rumbling sound proclaims a stamp-mill for trampling gold quartz into powder.  It is the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Domes begin to rise beyond us as if somebody had been mowing the big hills and heaping them into cocks for easy handling.  The earth is burrowed all along, carved with ditches, hollowed into caves, scooped out in cellars.  It is the visible route of the old gold hunters.  If these ghastly scars could talk, what tales of hardship, heart-ache, death, they all would tell!  There is a lonely grave this minute, surrounded by a fence.  He that lies there was waited for by somebody beyond the mountains as if she could never give him up.  He was mourned for as if she would always wear the willow.  He was forgotten as if she never loved him.  And it is well.  It seems to get hotter.  It really grows rougher.  Have you noticed how a man in a sultry day will take off his hat, look into it for an instant as if he expected to find something refreshing, then don it with a disappointed air, only to doff it again?  So my vis-a-vis interrogated his hat and said nothing.  But a <HI REND="italics">disappointed</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The landscape is getting full of tombstones.  The rocks are set up on edge by thousands; tablets and monuments.  The gray slabs, mossy, sculptured, stained, need some Old Mortality to work upon them.  You listen for the clink of his hammer and chisel through the silence.  You look about for his shaggy pony snorting the powdery earth from his nostrils as he nips for a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>We pass the dismantled buildings of the first mining settlement in all the region; a store with nothing but a pretentious front, like the shirtless man that wears a "dickey"; the dry and broken race-way; the gold mine on the mountain, with its disused road, tacking up the acclivity like a ship that beats against the wind.  We plunge down at a roystering rate into rugged Bear Valley, a pleasant hamlet in the green pocket of the mountains.  We have struck the great Mexican land grant to Fremont, "the Pathfinder" of the old days.  Two thousand feet above us, his Jessie had her summer residence.</P>
100.sgm:<P>At last, dusty as a caravan of camels, we dash into Mariposa, aforetime the rendezvous of the miners who possessed the town on Saturday nights with bags of gold, long knives and great oaths, swarming down from those burrows you see on the frown of the mountain, but now as deserted as the home of the nursery woodchuck that perished in a spasm "over the hills and a great way off."  It is nothing but a <HI REND="italics">shuck</HI>
100.sgm: of a town, the kernel eaten out long ago.  From the door of the excellent hotel I count <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Pack-horses laden with grapes that "set the children's teeth on edge," come shambling into town.  We meet grown girls from the hills bestriding their horses as manfully as the Colossus of Rhodes.  We see the dirtiest Piutes with neither second story nor garret to their blackthatched heads, go stealing about.</P>
100.sgm:<P>They have queer ways in the mountains.  Wells, Fargo and Company are the great express, mail and money carriers of California.  You see their green wooden, padlocked boxes on every stage.  The post-office and saloon may be attended by the same clerks, and highway-men are euphemistically called "road-agents."  There was some talk we might meet them, and I rather hoped we would, for it would be something quite out of a book to be bidden "stand and deliver."  It would have been a cheap and bloodless entertainment.</P>
100.sgm:<P>At Mariposa I saw some of the productions of the region.  They have a pleasant collection of them at the hotel.  Here is a thistle with a blossom two feet and a half in circumference.  Scotland should transplant, adopt, and name it the <HI REND="italics">noli me tangere gigantea</HI>
100.sgm: of California.  Next, a family of scorpions, dark-brown creatures two or three inches in length.  They are so many pairs of slender forceps--a sort of devilish sugar-tongs--the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:handles fringed with legs.  Yonder is a hairy-backed tarantula, the size of a large quail's egg, and a spread of eight lovely feet that would stand easily around the edge of a teacup.  Its house is an ingenious chamber lined with white satin and closed by a door with a hinge to it, the hardware being made of hair from his own blessed back.  That door shuts after him as snugly as the lid of your grandmother's snuff-box.  Near the tarantulas is a yellow-winged fly with a black rapier, the sworn enemy of the spider, and so, <HI REND="italics">ex-officio</HI>
100.sgm:<P>And now leaving Mariposa we begin to climb.  We have passed the foot-hills.  We are nearing the Sierras.  The everlasting sun blazes relentlessly.  Oh, for a little shadow, a dash of rain, a touch of gloom, to relieve the glare.  The glory grows oppressive.  I have no envy for the mountain with "eternal sunshine settling round its head."  The air is aromatic with the resinous pines.  It sweeps right across from mountain throne to mountain throne.  It has never been breathed.  It tingles in your veins.  It is a sort of inspiration.  Bevies of mountain quail scud gracefully along in the road before us.  The ears of Jack Rabbit, supported by a body and four feet, sprout beside the track, shut back like a knife-blade at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The trunks of great pines are thickly tattooed with holes like a New Zealander's skin.  It is the work of those wild carpenters, the woodpeckers, that drill each hole and drive an acorn into it.  It is a boarding-house, but not for birds.  A worm fattens upon the acorn, and when he is in edible order the carpenter disposes of him, and a rare morsel he is.  This gathering grain and housing it out of harm's way, and fattening stock upon it for home consumption--what does it lack of being the thing called reasoning?  There are house-building, harvesting, sheltering, feeding, and waiting, five consecutive steps, and then a feast!</P>
100.sgm:<P>We look across the world that lies embayed in the green surges of enduring Summer, two thousand feet below; across from height to height.  Earth is one great rough emerald with uncounted shades.  Three kinds of pines run skyward, the yellow, the contorta, the sugar--and the last is the grandest.  Imagine a tree as full of plumage as a bird of paradise, straight as an arrow, shot into the air two hundred and fifty feet, and only halting for orders.  Think of it surmounted by a great living umbrella of green, and cones a foot in length and resembling roasting ears pendent from its sleeved arms; a tree that talks to you of the most vigorous and luxuriant life you ever imagined, and you have the sugar pine.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>TAKING A MOUNTAIN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Now stand with me upon this daring promontory, Point Lookout, where a turn in the road and a lull in the timber reveal the sunken world.  There, far below, the Merced River, like a thread of silver clue, makes out its winding way.  You gaze down upon the tops of forest monarchs, with their feet in the water.  They are two hundred feet high, but they crouch like asparagus.  Beside their crowns, another rank is rooted upon the mountain side, and towers away two hundred and fifty more.  Above it, still a third line scales the precipice in this excelsior struggle of the serried woods.  A fourth, a fifth, begin where the third and fourth have ended, and upon the tops of all the five you look down as upon currant bushes from a chamber window!  The summit of the sixth is even with your eyes.  The seventh two hundred feet aloft.  The eighth is in the van.  The mountain is taken at last, and see where the ninth is--a broom to sweep the cobwebs out of the sky.  What magnificent apparatus for measuring heights and distances is here!  Nine regiments of giants have grown their way up more than two thousand feet from lower earth to mountain, and from mountain-top to sky.</P>
100.sgm:<P>That silent assault of the woods upon the heights I shall never forget.  They had been ages making it, and they carried them all at last.  See where the green banners toss triumphant.  Give one ringing, human cheer for the giant mountaineers!  Tally one!  Tally two!  Think how they measured off the centuries as they grew.</P>
100.sgm:<P>There are oaks, black and scrub; here a fir, there a Douglass spruce, yonder a chestnut.  You miss the elm and maple, those glories of the East, but what would you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>A MOUNTAIN CHOIR.</P>
100.sgm:<P>There is a hush upon the heights.  The signal of the cicada's cousin sounds loud and clear.  And now, at last, you hear the everlasting music of the pines; the mournful sighing of which the poets sing; the pedal base of mountain choirs, rolling up from the depths, rolling down from the heights; the lingering ghosts of winds long gone and died away.  It is solemn as all the funeral anthems of the world in one.  Of a truth, it is like the music of Ossian, "pleasant but mournful to the soul."</P>
100.sgm:<P>Beside the way are groups of neat, symmetrical little pines, resembling a choir of Sunday-school children, that, standing all by themselves, sing a tiny note or two into the great anthem.  Listen, and you shall hear the fine treble of the young pines, like the music of a small bird's wing as it flutters on the edge of a storm.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You see that varnished tree, smooth as a tomato and a rich maroon.  It is so crooked you think it must be doubting whether or not to grow all ways at once.  It is a Samson of a tree.  It has come up through that solid rock, cleft it as it came, and with its claret-colored arms seems struggling like the Old Testament lion-tamer to wrench its jaws more widely apart than ever.  Yonder is another rock-splitter.  You can almost see the struggle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:between the vegetable and the mineral.  But life will win.  A banyan tree, they say, is lifting the temple of Juggernaut.  The name of the maroon is "Manzanita."  "Two to one the tree will come out best in the fight!" says a passenger.  It is the liveliest picture of still life imaginable.  You almost look for an outburst of audible quarrel.  Somehow it suggests the statue of Laocoon.  On the bark of the conqueror some gallant tourist, when they halted in the shade, carved the name " <HI REND="italics">Maggie Preston</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"THE AYES HAVE IT."</P>
100.sgm:<P>We met the out-coming stage and exchanged drivers, taking George Monroe--everybody's George--a capital fellow and a born reinsman, for our Jehu.  We halted at a watering-place for man and beast, called Cold Spring, where, under a dingy veranda, sat and stood as motley a group as ever wore clothes.  Grizzly men under worn-out straw bee-hives of hats; greasers that "tried out" without fire; thin-flanked hunters in belt, knife and rifle; dogs dozing about, working their mouths in dreams of barking that never came true; shaggy ponies and hammer-headed horses that drooped alike at both ends.  There was no premium on dirt in the crowd.  It was too plenty.  Not one of them spoke a word while the stage remained, but just watched us.  They counted ears, beginning with the horses--eight <HI REND="italics">equus</HI>
100.sgm:, fourteen <HI REND="italics">homo</HI>
100.sgm:, total, twenty-two; and then noses, eleven; and then eyes, twenty-two.  After that, they seemed to be gathering up the ayes and noes and 'ears in an unparliamentary way in one grand total, fifty-five.  When they were done we were finished.  You could feel their silent eyes sliding all over you like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>DOWN THE MOUNTAINS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>After a succession of ups and downs, we came at last to the <HI REND="italics">descensus Averni</HI>
100.sgm: of the journey, and George made it <HI REND="italics">facilis</HI>
100.sgm:.  When we struck the summit and rolled over the verge--have you ever shot the rapids of the St. Lawrence?--well, when we went over the dam, that whip began to fire platoons, and those four horses hollowed their backs and their ears blew flat upon their necks, and we met the great pines and redwoods going up the mountain as if bound to storm something on the top of it.  George talked to the four-in-hand one after another, to the tune of "get out of the way, you are all unlucky," and that is it to a minim.  That team <HI REND="italics">couldn't</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Most mountains have elbows, some of them like Briareus, a hundred, and they hold their arms akimbo like a nervous woman with a big washing.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:First you wince to the right and then to the left, as the stage swings and sways.  Given an old-fashioned rail fence built straight up a hill, at an angle of about forty degrees, and then scare a red squirrel down the top rails from the summit to the bottom, and you will know how we went.  But we reached the last pocket as safely as if we had been so many young kangaroos in the maternal pouch, and we had made the five-mile run, and taken the chances, in twenty minutes, which is a geometrical tumble of five miles endwise at the rate of fifteen miles an hour.  Now seven men will rise up and solemnly say they descended that grade in ten minutes.  No tombstone can possibly object to bear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The arrival at Big Tree Station--Washburne's--a delightful place, ended the most luxurious mountain ride I ever enjoyed, and "the evening and the morning were the third day."  After luncheon the company took a mountain trail as narrow as the path whereon they call the cattle home, for the Mariposa grove of giant sequoias, the biggest vegetables in the known world.  It was a ride of fourteen miles, the return through the dense green darkness of the pine woods, with a very timid moon that did not dare to light the way.  My next best friend braved the journey like a heroine, and returning ambitiously desired to be placed on some "standing committee" for life.</P>
100.sgm:<P>THE BIG TREES.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The California Indians have a saying that other trees grow, but the Great Spirit created the sequoias out of hand.  It is the savage way of calling them miracles.  And they are, for how a tree from twenty-five to thirty stories high, and with room, if hollowed, to shelter three hundred guests, and leave stabling quarters on the ground floor for a dozen horses, could have pumped from the earth and inspired from the air material enough to build itself along without waiting, is incomprehensible.  To be sure, some of them have been a thousand years going up, and others a score of centuries, which would date them back to the time when Julius C&aelig;sar was drubbing the Druidical savages of Great Britain.  It gives you a queer feeling to look at a tree in full plumage that might have been flaunting its green needles when there was not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Whoever expects to be astonished at a big tree will be disappointed.  When your imagination has climbed two hundred and fifty feet of tree, an additional hundred or two will not matter a carpenter's rule to it, nor add a cubit to the grandeur of the vegetable.  The truth is, our imaginations have got so snugly fitted to the average of great trees, that they are no match for monsters, and ten chances to one we will find the faculty we are so proud of perched in the first fork for a rest.  "I had to look twice before I saw the top of it," is the careless, colloquial way of describing a great height.  Like many another random phrase, there is method in it and philosophy withal.  We must look many times to realize how far off the plumes of a sequoia twenty-two rods high really are.  The bark is a sort of Indian red from one to three feet thick, resembling butternut-colored <HI REND="italics">shoddy</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Riding along through woods where all is stately, you know a sequoia without an introduction, and everybody calls out, "There's a big tree!"  It is not as handsome as the pines, it is corrugated, it lacks the symmetry, and you wonder it is dumb.  If ever a tree should have a tongue, it is the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
100.sgm:, the king of the red-woods.  Somehow it seems to you such vastness should appeal to more senses than one.  Years ago, I wrote several lines with bells on their toes, about what was misnamed a California oak, to the effect that some Vandal girdled it and it never knew it for three years, but grew right on as if nothing had happened.  I have detected the blunder.  The oak was a giant sequoia.  I saw the tree in the Merced family.  It was struck by lightning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:two years ago, and twigs three feet in diameter blocked the stage-road.  It was scorched and rived, but it lived and was in full feather when I saw it.  The pumps were manned so mightily, the tides of life yet flowed up the majestic column.  The news had not reached the green eaves, dim, misty, and so far away.  It did not know that it ought to be dead.  Fourteen horsemen ringed that tree like the zodiacal signs, and no crowding.  Set the "Father of the Forest" upright, that prostrate monarch of the Calaveras grove, in the circus ring where master and clown pelt each other with fossilized jests of the silurian age, and there would be scant room for the calico horses to canter round the trunk without trampling the toes of the spectators, or grazing the flesh-colored legs of the centaurs of the circus.  Think of taking a horseback ride of five rods into the hollow of a tree, with head erect as becomes the knight <HI REND="italics">cap-a-pie</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Fires and fools have wrought sad havoc with these sinless towers of Babel that have kept on growing through the centuries straight toward heaven, and no confusion of tongues to stop the business, but they are now the wards of the Government.  A boy--and now and then a man--would naturally suppose that the tree that can hold its fruit three hundred and fifty feet in the air should hold up something worth while, say the size of a bee-hive or, at least, of Cotton Mather's hat, but the cone of the sequoia is not much larger than the egg of a talented pullet, and among the smallest of the conifers.  Writers have printed their groundless fears that these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:royal dukes of the wilderness will become extinct, but the earth around them is alive with baby sequoias from a few inches in diameter to six feet.  Only give them a few centuries and protect them from rogues and ruin, and the tourists of the year of our Lord 2500, who visit the western slope of the Sierras by aerial ship and electric car, will wonder at the vigorous giants, young at a thousand years old, that lift their green coronals in the thin air, and will talk <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"What shadows we are!"  But think how the dusky double of a tree four hundred feet high will single you out, while the sun goes down, as if the index finger of purple darkness were pointing the route of the Eastward-coming Night, that shall blot you out like a misspelled word from a day-book.  It grows along the landscape.  The earth has lost the sun, but there upon the redwood's crown shines a crimson flame.  It is the bedroom candle just lighted by the drowsy day.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A man whose ax used to tick like a lively clock in "the sounding woods of Maine" asks "how much cordwook will one of the big fellows make?"  The answer, if snugly piled along the roadside would extend twenty-eight hundred feet, and if twenty-five cords a winter of such fuel will keep his kitchen chimney roaring with satisfaction, one tree would last him sixteen years.</P>
100.sgm:<P>One after another the wonder-stories of childhood prove true.  Lemuel Gulliver's talent for vegetable lying in his most Brobdingnagian mood would not have added more than two hundred feet to the tallest sequoia, which is a very short range for anybody with a gift for drawing the long bow.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>A FOREST RIDE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"Who's going in to-day?"  That is what I heard the next morning after we had slept off the giants.  The question was answered in a minute, for Mott, a skilled driver, whirled up to the front of Washburne's hotel, and we were off.  California stages are prompt to the minute.  They run on schedule time.  That "going in" recalls the old army life at the Front.  The blue-coats were always talking of "going in," when they waded kneedeep into the thick of the battle.  We were nearing the valley.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Another day of forest magnificence.  You can form little idea of the stateliness of these woods.  Golden mosses drape and spangle the dead trees with the color of Ophir.  For miles, arcades of columns two hundred feet high, dressed in rainbows, aflame with scarlet, afire with crimson, aglow with gold, running up, and up, a thought's flight without a limb.  Should an artist paint them as they are, you would doubt your own eyes or discredit the painter.  They were the wild woods in a Roman carnival.  With the grandeur of the trees, the colored mosses, and the painted creepers, it was a picture all brilliance, as if the columns of a thousand Greek temples, decorated with garlands, had fallen into lines in a great procession, and were ready to march.  Not a brown shaft in sight.  It was a sort of revelry of the spectrum.  The bark of many of the trees resembles tortoise-shell.  It suggests the empty skins of the huge Brazilian serpents you saw at the Centennial Exhibition.  You are in a gorgeous land, whither you have sailed without going to sea.  You long for a glimpse of an American flag to assure you you are yet at home, and you find it.  On <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>FIRST GLIMPSE OF THE YO SEMITE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>At three o'clock, afternoon, we had climbed almost to Inspiration Point without knowing it, whence the Valley of the Yo Semite appears to you--there is no other word; "breaks," and "bursts," are terms of feeble violence to express the truth.  If day broke in a noisy way; if these pines around us grew with sound of hammers, the grandeur would be gone.  We have just seen an amphitheatre ten thousand times as large as Vespasian's at Rome; have looked across the blue spaces at the semicircular ranges of rocky seats, curve above curve, sweep beyond sweep, and fancied the pines that fronted them were senators risen to their feet as the Imperator entered the Coliseum.  But there was no hint that we were nearing the brink of the valley of the granite gods.  The precipices that took our breath away had disappeared.  The great chasms of empty azure that we had looked off upon till we felt almost lost in an ethereal ocean, were closed behind us by merciful walls and curtains of dense green.  We had blundered up into the garret dormitory where the mountains were lying down all around us in "the sixth hour sleep."  The stage crept over a recumbent shoulder without waking the owner, rolled out upon the point where the drowsing giant would have worn an epaulette had he been in uniform, moved a few steps farther, came to a halt, and there, lighted by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Spectral white in the glancing of the sun, the first thought was that the granite ledges of all the mountains had come to resurrection, and were standing pale and dumb before the Lord.  We had emerged in an instant from a world of life, motion and warm, rich color into the presence of a bloodless world, a mighty place of graves and monuments where no mortal ever died.  It looked a little as I used to fancy those Arctic wonders looked to Dr. Kane, glaciers, icy peaks and turrets, turned imperishable in the golden touch of a Tropic sun.  For the first few instants I saw nothing in detail.  I had been making ready for it for weeks; not reading such dull descriptions as my own; not reading <HI REND="italics">any</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Almost four thousand feet below us was the Valley with its green meadows, its rich foliage, and its river Merced.  We looked down upon the road we must go, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>I noted all these minor things with a strange irrelevancy.  It was an instinctive resistance to being wrenched from the every-day world of seeming trifles to which I belong, for I assure you, when the Valley is finally reached, all such things as trifles will vanish away.  And while I was doing these nothings, Yo Semite was standing before me and waiting.</P>
100.sgm:<P>I turned to it again, and began to see the towers, the domes, the spires, the battlements, the arches and the white <HI REND="italics">clouds</HI>
100.sgm: of solid granite, surging up into the air and come to everlasting anchor till "the mountains shall be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Just then, the coach we were to meet came creeping like an eight-footed insect up the mountain.  It cut a poorer figure than the fly that traveled along the curve of the Ephesian dome.  The party leaped out with laugh and chatter, and a girl of eighteen ran to this vantage ground of glory, took an instant look and said--her hands unclasped, not an eye fine, frenzied or revolving, it was a saccharine adverb and an adjective too soft to provoke an echo that she used--and said, "It is sweetly pretty!" and with a little cluck of satisfaction she munched a sandwich.  Now as between an idiot and an affected actress there is much space and little choice.  Perhaps, after all, it was as well as anything, for I begin to mistrust I cannot make anybody see the Yo Semite who does not go himself.  Judge B had been here.  He met his friend C, who asked a description of the Valley.  The Judge had traveled in foreign lands, and was able to compare, and so he began: "Why, my dear sir, the Yo Semite is as much superior to--as much superior to as--as much grander than--well, than--but what's the use of trying?  Let's take a drink!"  But who ever was warned and took heed?  Not the land-lubbers that Noah left ashore, not Lot's old neighbors, not the pilgrim to the Yo Semite, not <HI REND="italics">any</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Let us down easy, George," for our old driver was going back with the coach.  He generally untied the double-bows of the road "by the run," but he just walked the horses every foot of the way, and spelled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>THROUGH THE VALLEY.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The ride of three miles up the Valley was restful as "the beauty sleep" of forty winks that girls take after the call to breakfast.  The twanging nerves that were keyed to "C sharp" on the heights, let down a little.  The Valley, seven miles long, with a varying width of a half mile to a mile and a quarter, is as wild as you want it.  The Merced, that crystal river of Mercy, in endless quarrel with rock and rubble, foaming, flashing, roaring, dashing, meets you all along, in its desperate haste to get out of the can&tilde;on.  And when you see what tremendous accidents are always happening to it--now slipping from the verge of precipices a mile high, and tumbling hundreds of fathoms sheer down, with nothing to hold by, till it grows gauzy as a bridal veil and white as silver, you can hardly wonder at its desperation.  You are a little sorry for its misfortunes, as if it were something human, and then a little glad it has had the provocation to show its torrent temper and angry beauty.  You drive through broad natural meadows, dotted with tangles of shrubbery, feathery with ferns, and impudent with wild flowers that fear nothing; amid pines that are trying to grow up out of the tremendous gorge into the world; beneath avenues of live-oaks, among the junipers, the buckeyes and the buckthorns; here a mountain lilac, a manzanita, or a nutmeg; there a cluster of silver firs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The quaking aspen, trembling like a timid girl at nothing at all, is a feminine figure in the landscape.  "What is that shivering tree, shaking without any wind?" asked an English tourist of a raw and ignorant guide.  "I doant roightly know," was the reply, "but it is a wobblin' asp, or somethink that away"; and "wobblin' asp" became a synonym in the Valley for forty-fathom stupidity.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You hasten on; towers, spires, battlements, castles, dizzy walls, sculptures at either hand; you hear the winds intoning in the choral galleries a mile above your head; you hear the crash of waters as of cataracts in the sky; you trample upon broad shadows that have fallen thousands of feet down, like the cast-off garments of descending Night.  The three great geological theories of this cleft's formation--that the bottom fell out and let things down; that earthquake tongs and volcanic fires melted the crags and rent them asunder; that the softer and more edible parts of rock and mountain were eaten out by rains, and frosts, and rivers, leaving the stupendous bones bleaching through the centuries--you would not toss coppers for the choice of them.  All you know is that you are in a tremendous rock-jawed yawn of the globe, and the most you hope is, that it will keep on yawning till you are safely out of its mouth.  Jonah was never one of your great exemplars.  You pass two or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:three inns and modest dwellings, and are set down at Barnard's capital Yo Semite Falls Hotel, where you find a Highland welcome and a bounteous table.  Nothing in the whole animal kingdom is recognized here but the tourist.  Wells &amp; Fargo have an express-office for him, and a post-office for him, and educated lightning strikes him in all languages.  There are collectors of ferns and flowers, cutters of canes and workers in woods, dealers in tit-bits of fern-prints, foot-prints, stone fish, trilobites, stalactites, and <HI REND="italics">bonne-bouches</HI>
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100.sgm:<P>Think of the impudence of the thing!  Offering to throw in twenty-six hundred feet of cataract; pairing off your little dot of a face and figure with a half mile of tumbling glory, and selling cascade and tourist for eight dollars a dozen.  The "eternal fitness of things" is a little out of plumb.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The first thing I did was a sentimental improbability.  I ran down the balcony stairs to congratulate the poor River of Mercy on having a few rods of rest.  There it was, lurking behind the hotel, as smooth as a looking-glass, and a fleet of ten ducks afloat upon it, ten above and ten below, and not so much as a duckling's breast shattered by wind or water.  Listening a minute, I heard it in full quarrel a mile below.  Persecuted, perplexed, pugnacious Mercy.  No tourist forgets the admirably appointed Cosmopolitan Baths, owned by a gentleman with the singular name of John Smith--John Smith sundered by a C.  Here is</P>
100.sgm:<P>THE GRAND REGISTER.</P>
100.sgm:<P>It is a ponderous book, containing several solid feet of paper, bound in morocco, mounted with rich plates of silver worth eight hundred dollars, and is a big lift.  The pages are apportioned to every State, and almost every country but Patagonia.  That book furnishes reading so ridiculous as to be ludicrous--"infinite platitude," rhymes thick as sleigh-bells in New England winters, flashes of wit, and whole nights of stupidity.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>The disposition to patronize the Yo Semite is remarkable, as is also the fact that almost everybody arrived by the first stage.  One tourist with the dental name of Toothaker, and one with the rascally name of Turpin, figure on the same page.  The latter writes: "Seen the Bridal Veil.  Slept next to the man that snores."  Here a tourist declares: "The miteist work of man is dwarfed," unconscious that he is comparing a lively cheese and mountain magnificence.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A writer "made futile efforts to reach the Valley October 12, '75, but in vain."  Does the man mean to say that he failed?  One mercifully says: "Words fail me"; and a lady declares, sorrowfully: "Can't express my language."</P>
100.sgm:<P>"You need not go round the world.  When you have seen Glacier Point and Cloud's Rest, go home and rest <HI REND="italics">yourself</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Massachusetts is very reticent--pages of names, and not a word of comment, only this: "Plymouth Rock to the Rocks of the Yo Semite, which in their grandeur illustrate the sublime events and principles of which it is itself a symbol, greeting!"  An equestrian who had been making a hammer of himself asserts: "God made the mountains, but man made the saddles."  Connecticut "did not find it more than his imagination had pictured it."  New Hampshire leaves a neat sentiment:  "The Granite State to El Capitan sends greeting!"</P>
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100.sgm:<P>Here is verse--Tis-sa-ack is the South Dome:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Tis-sa-ack's caught the horned moon,<LB>And holds it pendent in the air,<LB>Where calm its silver shallop rests,<LB>By airy sailors anchored there.<LB>Time travels gray-brow'd o'er each height,<LB>And holds his scroll against the sun,<LB>And says, `come view my heaven born might,<LB>And what my air-edged chisel's done.'"<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>Little Rhody shouts "Hail Coli <HI REND="italics">o</HI>
100.sgm: mbia!"  Here is something in Russian, here a scrawl in short-hand, there a capacious Missourian "took it all in!"  Ohio's imagination goes by water: "Cannot realize the grandeur of the falls, the water being low."  Put in an overshot wheel.  A prodigal son of adjectives cries: "Grand, beautiful, picturesque!" fairly offset by an eloquent fellow who says: "Dumb as an oyster."  "Superbe, Yo Semite!" and France salutes.  "Hoofed it to the Valley," is an old soldier's memorandum.  Who wouldn't be glad that Liverpool is "much pleased so far!"  How encouraging to Nature to hold out and pass muster!  Some tourist weaves in everybody's pronunciation of Yo Semite:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"At half-past five o'clock at night,<LB>Our party reached the Yo <HI REND="italics">Semite</HI>
100.sgm:,<LB>Glad ere the evening lamps were lit,<LB>To see the Valley Yo <HI REND="italics">Semite</HI>
100.sgm:.<LB>Who that has seen it can condemn it,<LB>The wondrous beauty of Yo <HI REND="italics">Semite</HI>
100.sgm:?<LB>This verse I dedicate to thee,<LB>Oh, world-renowned Yo <HI REND="italics">Sem-i-te</HI>
100.sgm:!"<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>A Baltimore girl effusively exclaims: "Let me embrace thee, beautiful Valley.  A kiss to thee!"  "Take off your shoes," quotes another, "for the ground whereon you stand is holy ground."  Can there be much doubt that the Mississippian who left the record, "Let us go and see the monkey," is himself the missing link?  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The names upon these broad pages represent the world.  Here are lords, barons, viscounts, counts, members of parliament, one solitary duke, a spring of princes, great generals, world-famed savans, statesmen, Lady Franklin, Mrs. Partington, and nobodies.  Australia is here with the veredict, "America is the d <HI REND="italics">e</HI>
100.sgm:<P>There is no sin in "a little nonsense now and then," but the Sinbads the sailors, who come hither under pretense of seeing the strength of the hills, and bring a sordid "old man of the sea," pick-a-pack, with his legs tied in a bow-knot under their chins for a cravat, and make business directories of the big book, and placard the majestic rocks with cries of "Cream yeast!"  "Sewing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>EL CAPITAN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The most impressive granite wonder in the Valley is the great rock El Capitan, gray in the shadow and white in the sun.  Standing out, a vast cube with a half mile front, a half mile side, three-fifths of a mile high, and seventy-three hundred feet above the sea, it is almost the crowning triumph of solid geometry.  Thirty "Palace Hotels," seven stories each, piled one above another, would just reach the hanging eaves of El Capitan; two hundred and ten granite stories by lawful count.  Well did the Indians christen him <HI REND="italics">Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah</HI>
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100.sgm:<P>You never tire of seeing eastern sunshine move down the front, like a smile on a human face.  You never tire of seeing the great shadows roll out across the broad meadows as the sun descends, and rise, like the tide in Fundy's Bay, till the Valley is half filled with night, and the tips of the tall trees are dipped like pens in ink.  You never weary of watching the light from a moon you cannot see, as it silvers the cornices and brightens the dusky front, as if wizards were painting their way down without stage or scaffold.  A dark spot starts out in the light.  It turns into a great cedar.  Pines that stand about the base resemble shrubs along a garden wall.  They are two hundred feet high.  A few men have crept out to the eaves of El Capitan, looked over, and crept back again.  Little white clouds sail silently toward the lofty eaves and are gone, as to a dove-cote in a garret.  And yet an earthquake in 1872 rocked him like a cradle, and the clocks in the Valley all stopped, as though when El Capitan was moved, then "time should be no longer."</P>
100.sgm:<P>THE BRIDAL VEIL.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The Bridal Veil Fall--the Indian <HI REND="italics">Pohono</HI>
100.sgm:, or Spirit of the Evil Wind--has been talked at and raved about till it is famous as Niagara.  A clergyman has been known to take it home with him, and carry it around to weddings and funerals, and preach it for a bissextile year.  As you enter the Valley, you see upon the right almost a thousand feet of unbent rainbow, thirteen yards wide, hanging over the edge of a precipice.  In midsummer, when there is less need of a token, the broad scarf of the spectrum is narrowed to ribbons bright enough for a queen of May.  It curves out over the cliff and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Now the cataract begins to swing majestically to and fro, like a gridiron pendulum, and the tick of a mountain clock would not surprise you.  And now it is twisted into colored bell-cords and finished out with downy tassels, as if somebody were making ready to ring the chimes of Heaven.  Then the fingers of the wind weave it into a gossamer veil of thirty-nine hundred square yards, that falls with fairy grace over the face of the mountain and down to its feet, and the Wedding March is the music for the moment.  Then the veil is swept aside, and lifted, and flung up around the brow of the cliff, in the folds of a white turban, touched up with tints of color like the head-dress of some queen of the Orient.  Nothing more delicate than this veil ever came from the looms of India, and where you stand it is silent as a picture; no more crash than there is to the broidered lace that flows down a woman's arms and falls upon her wrists.  It looks aerial enough to be rolled up to the verge of the precipice, and then drift away like a commodore's broad pennant swept from the mast-head in a gale.  It is a tributary of the Merced River in disguise.</P>
100.sgm:<P>And yet, while you gaze upon this glorified Spirit of all cataracts, somebody beside you will be pretty sure to break the spell by saying, "But you ought to see it in May, when there was more water, or in June, when there will be less," or some more blessed time which never happens to be now.  Such people should be apprenticed for life as gate-tenders to the flume of a grist-mill, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>MIRROR LAKE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The professional tourist is a vagrant animal.  You know him at sight.  He has elbows, and they are never trussed.  A place wide enough to let them through will let <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The sunrise pilgrimage to Mirror Lake, three miles up the Valley from the hotel, is one of the most delightful.  The lake is a sheet of water with an area of six or eight acres in midsummer, and waveless in the morning as a silver floor.  Insignificant of itself, it betrayed the professional tourist into a premature spasm of contempt, and he exclaimed, his head running on Lakes Geneva and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:Tahoe, "Why it's nothing but a blarsted poodle after all!"  "But it reflects the mountains," interposed somebody, and the tourist snuffed him out with, " <HI REND="italics">Any</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Big or little, Mirror Lake is the toilet-glass of Majesty.  Had there been such a piece of furniture in Palestine, Satan could have saved his mountain climb, for he would have showed the Savior the glory of the world, if not its kingdoms, reflected in this breathless trinket of water.  At the left and three miles distant, Mt. Watkins lifts eight thousand feet above the sea--who is Mr. Watkins?--and yonder is South Dome, a half loaf of solid rock, ten thousand feet above salt water, cut on the severed side to a precipice that swoons away almost a dizzy mile.  In front, and six miles away, like snowy cumuli at anchor, tower the granite glories of Cloud's Rest, a mile and a quarter above the Valley and two above the sea.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The rising sun shows a flag upon the summit of Cloud's Rest.  It is answered from the South Dome.  There is gold on the Cathedral Spires.  There is crimson on Glacier Point.  There is fire on El Capitan.  Did you ever see a cataract of morning light?  Look along that castellated ridge.  See the sort of rayed and smoky glory rolling like a rapid river over the brink; it is the spray of morning playing on the granite.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Now gaze down into Mirror Lake, and you shall behold the mountain heights draw near each other; the lofty crowns and far-off peaks incline their stately heads together to whisper "morning!" round the land.  The curve of the great dome like the fragment of an azimuth, the outline of crag and cliff, the trees that cling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Looking at the gigantic group in the little mirror, you begin to gain a new idea of the magnitude of mountains and the size of--yourself.  Here are giants that, ranged around in a twelve-mile sweep, could all look into the same well together, like Jacob and Rachel at old Haran.</P>
100.sgm:<P>As we were watching the dissolving views we should never see again, a Cassius of a fellow with an African antecedent appeared with a battered bugle, rheumatic as to its keys, patched with pewter and asthmatic beyond relief.  It might have been blown by The Cid's bugler in the eleventh century to scare the Moors away, and look not a century older.  Cassius wanted to play for fifty cents, and the echoes.  To have the crags open mouth upon us in harmony with that instrument of torture was not to be thought of.  So one of the party lifted up his head and called <HI REND="italics">cuk-o-o</HI>
100.sgm:<P>For a lumbering old mountain weighing two or three hundred million tons, and whose shoulder an able-bodied star could not get high enough to look over without a two hours' climb from the level of the sea, to stand there and say "cuckoo" after you was absurd to a degree.  It was paltry business to bandy a word about that names a bird too mean to hatch its own chickens, and so Boanerges was desired to shout "Liberty!" and the rousing trisyllable came bounding back from the responsive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:congregation.  A crag called "Lib," a wall put in the "er," and somebody in a turret shouted " <HI REND="italics">te</HI>
100.sgm:<P>And then a breath from down the valley struck the water, and the Dome was wrinkled and the Cap of Liberty was ruffled like a French night-cap.  Cloud's Rest trembled out of sight, and the pageant was ended.</P>
100.sgm:<P>UP A TRAIL.</P>
100.sgm:<P>On horseback or on foot, there never was anything in a champagne bottle so exhilarating as climbing a mountain trail.  I tried to read these trails inscribed like the mysterious writing on Belshazzar's palace walls, for a day or two.  I watched an apparently perpendicular rock a thousand feet in the air, and saw a chalk line.  All at once from a fringe of trees mid-air there emerged three horsemen single file, and toed it, and crept like flies along the mountain side where there seemed no foothold for a chamois.  Then with one accord they rode straight out to the angle of the precipice, as if they had concluded to make a cataract of themselves, and a Tarpeian rock of it.  Then one of them climbed to the left, and two of them scrambled to the right.  They had parted company.  In ten minutes they reunited and were headed the same way and upward still.  And so they kept meeting and parting, meeting and parting; the thousand feet was fifteen hundred, the fifteen hundred two thousand, and then they went into a hole and I never saw them come out; but after a couple of hours, upon a pinnacle were three rats that were horses, and three glove fingers that were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The next morning, a four-in-hand took us two miles up the Valley, through scenery that, with tree and vine, rock and river, tangle and shadow, was wild as the most exacting Dryad or Naiad could wish, to the horse-trail, a crooked, dusty trough, strown with stones, streaked with the stroke of horse-shoes striking fire, ribbed with gnarled roots, jostled by rocks, bordered by precipices that tumble down into holes through the world, set up endwise, tilted edgewise, and wide as a stair carpet.  We reached Register Rock, with a shadow in a weary land, like its Old Testament twin.  It is about the size of a Pennsylvania Dutchman's barn, and scrawled over with "cream yeast" atrocities, and mammon and harlequin possess it.  It tells us that a flock of seventy-three Bloomers alighted here in one day; that Bierstadt and Moran halted for a mountain drink; that "Bob of Chili," "the noblest Roman of them all," has been here.</P>
100.sgm:<P>From this rock the horse-trail climbs to the right for Nevada fall, and a fine-hand affair, a foot-trail, trends up to the left for Vernal Fall.  We take the latter, a crazy screw of a track, where the thread turns both ways in three minutes; a wall of earth and rock on one side, a gulf on the other, where the persecuted and mystified Merced is roaring and raving from its last tumble,--the unhappiest, jolliest, liveliest river in the geography.  You put your feet side by side at first, and then Indian file, as boys walk a crack; doubling headlands, climbing jagged stairs, crossing unrailed balconies.  It is nervous enough.  The hungry Merced is tearing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Water Falls do not talk alike.  They roar, growl, crash, grind, rush.  The voice of the Vernal is grum, like a mill, one minute, and then rough, like the grate of coach wheels in the gravel, the next; but the Nevada Fall slides with a smooth, soft, lulling sound, and a faint tone like the moan of a bell that has just done ringing.  You creep over a lean shoulder, and two flights of stairs, straight as Jacob's ladder, confront you.  At the first glance you think you would about as soon climb by the curve of a notched rainbow.  In some places the path has an outer edge bare as the hem of a handkerchief.  In others, a fringe of grass two or three inches high borders the trail, and how that mere nap of vegetation helps you keep your balance is truly wonderful, when there is no more protection in it than there would be in a railing of spider's web, but you walk with a braver, surer step.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>Fern Grotto, at the foot of the stairs, is a dilapidated hood of rock, apparently just ready to tumble upon any forty or fifty heads that may get into it.  Every maiden-hair fern within reach had been plucked or wrenched away by the roots, and some, on the rocky shelves out of harm's way, had evidently been stoned as boys stone a treed squirrel.  Climbing the stairs, you land upon a broad, smooth rock floor, with a stone balustrade built by giants, whence you watch at your leisure the first silent, polished plunge of the curving and jeweled water over the verge.  Then we go down the stairs, back over the hair-line, which is an 'air-line on the brink side, to Register Rock, where we take to the elbowed arms of the horse trail, and tack and tug slowly up the mountain.  Every other arm, we are in the full glare of sunshine.  Every other arm, we are in the shade.  The valley falls away as we rise.  The mountains settle down like motherly hens and brood the little hills.  The horizon ripples away and takes in more and more of the world.  The trails double above each other like hanging balconies.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Just now a ringing mountain cry comes from below.  It is answered or echoed far over our heads.  Queerly enough, the highland shout is an inarticulate <HI REND="italics">cuck-oo</HI>
100.sgm:These signal and warning cries are not only pleasant everywhere, but necessary upon the narrow trails, and prevent many an accident and awkward meeting.  In twenty minutes the owner of the voice followed the shout.  He was a mounted guide with two ladies and a bit of a girl whose horse he led with a lariat.  The horses went with their noses down as if following the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Four miles on the crooked hypothenuse of a triangle brought us out at last upon a sun-bombarded, scraggy plateau, and in front of us, as if a rock in the sky had been smitten like the one in the Wilderness, the Nevada Fall poured its snowy waters.  Softly sliding in silken scallops, some fast, some slow, waters over waters, silk over satin, and only four steps in a seven-hundred-feet stone stairway, it gracefully descended with a rustle of white garments, to the paved street that led down to Vernal Fall and the valley and the can&tilde;on and the sea.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Towering two thousand feet above the head of the grand staircase, like a sentinel four thousand feet high, stands, rigid, soldierly, erect, The Cap of Liberty.  Shaggy Bearskin Point is in sight, which Miss Anna Dickinson, with a slight godmother experience of baptismal fonts, strove to rechristen Crinoline Point.  A sightly place to hang a petticoat!</P>
100.sgm:<P>There has been some atrocious naming of the mountains.  Neither poet nor soldier has so much as a peak to himself, but a photographer is his Eminence by virtue of a crag, and there is a whole mountain by the name of Gabb!  Think of filling Fame's sounding trumpet with a sonorous--gabble!  Coming up the Valley from the Bridal Veil, you see at the left three grotesque crags, four thousand feet high, that turn their heads as you near them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>We shambled and heeled it, and sometimes <HI REND="italics">manibus pedibusque</HI>
100.sgm:<P>YO SEMITE FALL AND SUN TIME.</P>
100.sgm:<P>In midsummer the Yo Semite is less a fall than a fall-away, and there is no more tumult about it than there is in the drooping grace of a weeping willow.  A streak of water and a broad, dark line on the face of the rock, a sort of dull lithographic map, show the route of the cataract.  It is a perpendicular half mile from the brink of the fall to the base, and there are times when the tumbling thunders of the melting snows from the Gothic towers beyond, plunge through the cleft with a head-long leap of fifteen hundred feet, strike a granite stair, and then, girdled and hooded with foam and fury, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>There are times when the ice and snow are piled at its base to a height of four hundred feet, as if Yo Semite had pocketed a young Arctic; but it is sure to slip through its fingers in June.  The wettest thing I saw was a small white cloud, as dry as Jason's golden fleece, that came to the cleft, took a look, and disappeared.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A dweller in the Valley can see the sun rise several times in the same morning, and not travel more than a mile to witness it.  There seems to be a granite conspiracy to prevent his rising at all, and he acts as if he were assaulting point after point for a weak spot.  Over this peak, beyond that cliff, above yonder crag, along that wall, he shows fight; but he scales them all at last, and bombards the can&tilde;on with his golden batteries.  Eight, nine, ten, eleven--he is an accommodating sun, and the laziest man in the world is glad to see him before night.  I stood near an old cabin where he does not rise in December until half-past one, and sets at half-past three.  An old-time preacher's election sermon would pack such a day even-full of doctrine, and leave not a minute for dinner or doxology.  The man was no dormouse; two hours' day were not enough; he moved a mile and got eight.  It is the sort of sun that would have delighted the soul of Gentle Elia.  "You come very late in the morning, Mr. Lamb," said the chief of the India House <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>There never was a grander place to put up chronometers, from the great cathedral clock to the mantel-shelf affair that ticks like a harvest-fly.  There are not ten minutes of sunshine that it does not touch some salient point, or a shadow extend a finger and lay it on a spire, a tower, or a mountain fir, that, once noted, is always remembered.  The face of the rocks could be mentally covered with clock dials that would tell the hour as perfectly as the giant of Strasburg.  Once set these time-pieces for the season, and you may leave your watch under your pillow.</P>
100.sgm:<P>While we were in the Valley, the Evening Star had a habit of passing a rugged embrasure on the summit of Sentinel Rock, three thousand feet up, and it was better than one of Shakspeare's plays to watch it.  First it passed into a castle cell, behind the wall.  Then you knew it was coming, for you saw a small dawn growing on the sill of the battle-window.  Last, it glided into sight, clear and strong, passed straight across the field of view, and was lost in the donjon.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The moonlight sometimes reveals more than broad noon.  Thus you may be watching a mountain wall all day that has seemed a smooth and finished face of masonwork; but when the moon swings farther round, shadows from some undetected high-relief of rock start out and run five hundred feet along the mountain; or what has always looked a whisker of a bush projects the double of a great tree upon the wall.  There is a hand-shaped crag on Yo Semite Point, rudely resembling the four fingers and palm in a gray mitten, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>In low and level regions, a man is accurately located if you give his latitude and longitude; but among the mountains a third factor is necessary--his altitude--how far East or West, North or South, how far Up.  In Chicago, not a man in ten thousand thinks about his geography above the sea level; but in the high lands you pick up a hotel card, as at Denver, and read, "altitude, 6,000 feet."  There are other evidences of altitude where the stage routes are strown with broken bottles of all colors and nations, from the stocky porter to the slender-necked champagne.  They exemplify a certain kind of high civilization.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Did you ever see a cast of Oberlin's head, that sugar-loaf of a head, full of sweet thoughts as a bee-hive is of honey?  That is about the shape of the South Dome.  Its organ of veneration is tremendous; there are six or eight acres of it, six thousand feet high, and solid rock through and through.  It is a small petrifaction of the overarching sky.  Agassiz would have delighted, in some fanciful mood, to construct it.  He would have set this skull upon shoulders a mile and a half broad, and built up a human figure six miles high to carry it.  Three kinds of pines and a few scattered grasses grow upon the reverential Arabia Petrea.  It was only toward the close of the year '75 that a Montrose Scotchman, George S. Anderson, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>BREAKING UP CAMP.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The sojourn in the Valley was made instructive and delightful by Mr. J. M. Hutchings, whose name is indissolubly linked with the history of the Yo Semite, and who has done more than all other men, and done it better, to acquaint the world with its wonders.  A gentleman of culture, he is an enthusiastic lover of the region wherein he has passed so many years.  Tall, spare, made of whip-cord and grit, he is a revised and improved edition of Cooper's Leather Stocking.  His gray hair does not suggest age, but like a horse iron-gray, means endurance.  Tent life, mountain trails, adventure and shaggy can&tilde;ons have charms for him that make the wilderness a perpetual delight.  He was about breaking up camp to lead a party a three weeks' mountaineering, and we went over to the ground to see the flitting.</P>
100.sgm:<P>His camp was pitched beside a beautiful stream near the foot of the Yo Semite, a grassy place with luxuriant shade.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The party was composed of ladies, old and young, two or three strong men, a photographic artist, and some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The pack animals, whereof the mule Molly was chief, were taking on a deck-load of cargo.  She made a saw-buck of her legs when the men began to tighten the long cords over the load on one side and the other with a foot braced against her for a strong pull.  Trunks, boxes, bedding, a whole kitchen of culinary ware, were balanced in the great panniers, till the cargo was as big as herself.  Sometimes she wearied of being a saw-buck, and took to rearing up behind and before at about the same instant, which rendered things uneasy and made lively times for the stevedores of the queer craft.  Mr. Hutchings was the ruling spirit, tightening a girth, giving a snugger reef to a tent, condemning things they could do without, showing it was more of a science to know what you do not want than what you do.  At length the camp was clear, the brands of the fire were stamped out, the last pack animal was a little elephant or a big camel, and the order to mount peopled the saddles as if it had been done by a bugle.  Florence Hutchings, and her brother whose short legs were projected to larboard and starboard from the saddle--they were about long enough to bestride the back of a jack-knife--and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The party then deployed in a circle around the carriage that brought their guests, and sang " <HI REND="italics">Vive L'Companie</HI>
100.sgm: " till the birds listened, the health of everybody was drank in water "qualified" like a Justice of the Peace, and one after another they filed away, the little elephants and dromedaries giving an oriental look to the caravan, and as they streamed out through the meadow toward the bridge over the Merced they struck up, with one accord, "Where now are the Hebrew children?"  And where <HI REND="italics">are</HI>
100.sgm: they?  That night upon the mountain height, five miles as the crow flies, and ten miles as the trail went, we saw through the wind-swayed cedars their camp blaze, like a fire-fly's intermittent light.  But the brighteyed girls, the gentle women and the stalwart men, we saw no more.  Mr. Hutchings and a San Francisco girl kept us company for awhile, halted with us at a mineral spring, where we took a parting stirrup-cup of something in ate, ite and et, the Yo Semite Leather Stocking told sparkling and pathetic stories, one after another, taking off the curse of sentimentalism, every now and then, with,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"And they all flapped their wings,<LB>Singing Filly McGree McGraw,"<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>and then, putting foot in the stirrup, away went the genial mountaineer and the merry maiden at a hand gallop, through the trees and up the trail and round a curve and out of sight.  Good fortune and good night to the gypsies of the Yo Semite!  And then we made our way out of the marvelous Valley, and our last look <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>WHALES, LIONS AND WAR DOGS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO has lions, and now and then a whale.  For several days the street cars had been carrying "a banner with the strange device"--"TO THE WHALE," and we entered one of those crowded cars bound to ride until somebody said "whale."  But everybody said "whale," and persevered in it to such a degree that we asked the driver--the car was one of those Insurance-Company self-paying institutions--to say "whale" himself just once when the time came.  He did, and we bundled out of the car and followed the crowd.  And there he was, the fin-back, seventy-six feet long and moored to the dock like a dismasted ship of the line.  We never got much idea of the monster from the pictures we used to have.  They represented a big, bulging rubber overshoe, in the days when they called them "gums," with a weeping willow turned to water growing out of the toe.</P>
100.sgm:<P>But here was the genuine sea-side tenement of the Prophet Jonah, with its arched door and seventeen-feet posts, but not a place for a bell-pull or a door-plate, the only evidence of high life being fixtures for a fountain in the front yard.  But its blowing days were past.  Roses blow, and so do whales.  Being a whale of seventy-six, he was a <HI REND="italics">Revolutionary</HI>
100.sgm: aquatic, for he lay upon his back <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The crowd were as much of a wonder as the whale.  "Where's his flippers?" said one; "his fins?" another; "his teeth?" a third; "Oh, hasn't he any ears?" whined a little lubber; "Did he really swallow Jonah, ma?" asked a good little Sunday-school girl; and so it went.  Some women were looking for a mouth full of corset frames, but there being a doubt to which end the head belonged, they never found "those skeletons of the closet."  An old whaler stubbing about estimated him at sixty barrels.  And this was the sort of beast for which all tarpaulined Nantucket went round the Horn and widowed the women; the mountain of blubber that could thresh a boat like grain with one end and drown the crew with the other; the floating oil-well for the light of other days.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Polonius would not have said, "it is <HI REND="italics">backed</HI>
100.sgm: like a whale," for there was no ocular proof it ever had a back; but he could have declared, "it hath an ancient and fish-like smell," for it suggested a whiff of the smoky lamp of japanned tin that stood on the stand with a snuff-box and the family bible.  A herd of whales going to "school" in mid-ocean, with the plumes of water waving and the great flukes lashing the sea into foam, must be a grand sight, but this ill-shapen wreck of oleaginous exanimation was not a success.  Let us give it a bad name and be gone: the great northern <HI REND="italics">rorqual</HI>
100.sgm: of the genus <HI REND="italics">Bal&oelig;noptera</HI>
100.sgm:, class of <HI REND="italics">mammals</HI>
100.sgm:,--think of its having calves!--of the family of <HI REND="italics">cetacea</HI>
100.sgm: and the tribe of <HI REND="italics">mutilates</HI>
100.sgm:, and that is what it is, and badly multilated too!  The fishermen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>SEALS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A seal-skin sacque with a snug woman inside and a snug winter outside, is as pretty a sight as a snow-bird in its season.  But a seal in its own jacket would not catch "the apple of discord" in the competition for beauty with anything you ever saw pulled out of the sea.  It is an exaggerated garden slug, weighing from one hundred pounds to four thousand, dog-headed, ox-eyed, whiskers Spanish and sparse, a benign countenance and a pair of flippers.  Seal Rocks, six miles from San Francisco and a few hundred feet from the headland, are three huge cairns with a Druidical look, piled up in the sea, the blarney-stones of San Francisco and the paradise of seals.  They are the wards of the State, protected by law, and the piscatorial triumphs of the Coast.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You ride through Golden Gate Park, one of the most beautiful drives in the world, with its winding sweeps of magnificent distances, bowl up to the Cliff House and make for the balcony.  Before you, blue and scintillant as frosty steel, is the Pacific, flaunting its white fringes and flounces along the shore at your feet, and dying away into the sky afar off.  As the great waves come sliding up the slopes of gray sand and fling themselves down upon the land with thunder in the rustle of their garments, you think what a royal fool Canute was.  Some flies with filmy wings are creeping along the curve of the horizon.  They seem to move as the grass grows.  They are ships from South America, from Oregon, from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Before you rises the acropolis of seals.  There are other inhabitants of the rocky fastnesses, but you do not notice them at first.  There the seals are, some of them coming up sleek and dark out of the sea; some lying about with lifted heads, quarreling, gossiping, playing with their young; some working their way up the crags like so many portly men tied up in tawny bags from head to heel.  You are half sorry for their helplessness at first, but when you see them climbing where you could not scramble for your life, your sympathy is lost in admiration.  Their voices are a hoarse confusion of the bark of puppies, the creak of dry cart-wheels, the clatter of guinea-hens.  You vainly try to translate the jargon into English.  It rises above the roar of the sea and drives against the wind.  These seals have a perennial cold and live an everlasting Friday, for their food is fish.  They do their own angling, and twelve thousand pounds is no extravagant estimate for the monthly rations of the whole community.  The fishing fleets would be delighted to work up the last skin of them all into caps.  Fish, likewise eggs: for you begin to see the birds dotting the rocks, sitting in drowsy rows, rising in freckled clouds, settling down to the sea like big snow-flakes in the dusk.  There are gulls, pelicans, sea-parrots, sea-pigeons, guillemots; some swift, some slow, and all lazy.  They lay their eggs heedlessly about among the rocks, and the seals help themselves.  The eggs are clouded and colored marbles, pretty enough to pave the king's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The Seal Rocks are a sort of domestic Juan Fernandez, but nothing could be wilder.  To see Crusoe's Capricornus come round a corner would not surprise you.  The clamor of the waves, the crying of the disconsolate winds, the screaming of the birds, the strident talk of the seals, give you the cast-away feeling of a shipwrecked mariner.</P>
100.sgm:<P>With any other surroundings such a Babel would be hideous, but delicate ladies sit by the hour and listen as to bassos with subterranean voices and larks of primadonnas.  California is proud of its seals and its seal.  The Legislature tossed out a thousand-dollar bag of gold for the design, like the rich uncle in the play, when they could have bought a live bear and hired a live miner for half the money, while the bath-tub exclamation of Archimedes, " <HI REND="italics">Eureka</HI>
100.sgm:!" is everybody's, and Minerva the Romans had done with long ago.  But it is wonderfully appropriate and peculiarly Californian.  Contrast with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>THE GOLDEN GATE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>It was a memorable day when we visited the Cliff and The Golden Gate.  The Lord made it that morning and pronounced it good.  Even the bare sand dunes are beautiful with the pictured waves and ripples of watered silk.  Two mountain ranges, the nearer, russet, the farther, blue, are in sight, and Diablo lifts his three thousand feet of smoky grandeur.  And looking upon the purple hills and the blue and golden lights upon the water, we thought that if ever a spot could dispute with Athens her ancient title, it is San Francisco.  Oh, "City of the Violet Crown," all hail!</P>
100.sgm:<P>Flocks of all river and ocean craft are coming and going.  Here, a great steamer ploughs squarely out, leaving a highway of wake and a line of drifted foam each side of the road.  There, a fellow with one white wing lifted and body a-tilt, is skimming obliquely across the Bay.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Yonder, a little African of a tug with his nose out of water and his great fleece of black wool bigger than his body, has a leviathan by the halter, and is leading him up to the wharf.  Now, a surly man-of-war comes in view, or a Chinese water-bug of a craft puts out its long antenn&aelig; this way and that, feeling for something, or a ship with her top-hamper piled in volumes white <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>And the parlor opens out upon the Pacific.  Its front door is The Golden Gate.  In fact, it is a hall five miles long and one and a half miles broad.  Its gate-posts are Fort Point and Lime Point, a mile apart, and not the least like the pillars of Hercules, and a greater than Samson lifted the Gate from its hinges and flung it into the sea.  It is the strait of Chrysopol&aelig; and the name was prophetic, for early in 1848, before the discovery of gold, Fremont, the Pathfinder, because of the fertile shores to which it led, christened it The Golden Gate.  At the South portal is a lock.  It is Fort Point, a grim structure with eight-feet walls of brick and stone, mounting one hundred and twenty-three guns, and the Fortress Monroe of the farthest West.  A solitary sergeant opened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>And then we saw how the guns from fort, island and point could send their iron shuttles to and fro across the hall, and string great ships, like beads, upon their fiery warp and woof.  And then we went out and saw the fog-bell, shaped like an iron lupin or a Puritan's hat, hanging with its dead weight run down, voiceless, by the wall.  Think of a hat weighing two tons!  And then, climbing the craggy hills above, we saw great kennels, and big dogs of war crouched in the sand, and their noses smutted with "villainous saltpetre," all pointed toward the Pacific.</P>
100.sgm:<P>And then we thought what a weary while ago it was, three hundred and one years, since Sir Francis Drake, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>And then we took a long look at the battered door-posts of rock and mountain, and the dim ocean beyond, and saw a ship weighing and balancing in the offing, a wing spread here and a wing spread there, and curtsying through the Gate into the blue parlor of the Bay.  And then we thought how the gray mists swept down, sometimes, upon crag and water, and blotted and brooded them all out.  And then we turned away and passed Lone Mountain, the everlasting camping ground of dead Californians, and struck into the clattering streets of the living, and the music of a band swayed to and fro, and near and far, and loud and low, in the wind, and we met fellows invested principally in vests, with their feet apart, like an inverted Y,  [ In the original text an inverted Y appears here. ] and the ribbons twisted like yarn, getting out of the roan and the bay all there was in them, and shouting: "Hi!" as the spokes grew dense in the dizzy wheels.  And then we saw a placarded window that might have said, "Coffin plates purchased," when it did say, "Wedding presents bought or exchanged"; and at a street corner, "A. Goldmann" declares himself "Mender of Broken Articles," a piece of information that many a verdict of "twelve good and lawful men" has applied to tattered affections and fractured hearts, making them toughest and strongest at the spot that was weakest.</P>
100.sgm:<P>And then the sea breeze bore down upon us in a shower of sand like a troop of Bedouins, and the sky was Coventry-blue, and the day by the sea was ended.</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>A TRIP TO THE TROPIC.</P>
100.sgm:<P>THE valleys radiating from the Bay are among the chief glories of the State: those spacious halls of beauty and abundance, San Joaquin, Sacramento, Napa, Santa Clara, forever opening into chambers along the way, and meaning bread for the Continent, flowers for its festivals, fruit for its tables, and the climates of all hospitable lands.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The Central and Southern Pacific Railroads took us over nearly five hundred miles to Los Angeles, the capital of Semi-tropical California.  To build the thoroughfare through an appalling desert and over a rude and rugged rabble of disorderly mountains was a bold project, but it proved a triumph.  The equipments are "express and admirable," the officers courteous.  No more delightful winter trip than this can be found without inventing a geography.  Leaving the Bay, the train runs through miles of perpetual gardens.  Think of one horizon full of currants, another red with plums and cherries; a level world set with vegetables like a sunflower disc with seeds.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You set forth from San Francisco yesterday afternoon.  At this morning's dawn you have left three hundred miles behind, and are up betimes to see the glories and difficulties of sunrise.  It is August, and you look out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>A DIFFICULT SUNRISE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The day is yet in the gray.  A flock of magpies have been racing with the train for ten minutes.  They just showed what they could do and switched off.  You see a Chinaman asleep in the open air on a flamingo-legged bedstead.  He has achieved a second story without going upstairs.  The arrangement suggests creeping things with shorter legs but more of them.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The shadows of the mountains begin to show along the plain.  There is something beyond.  As the light grows, the heights retreat before the coming train.  They had drawn near in the dark to keep each other company, but courage returns with the dawn.  The light strikes through a cleft between two lines of mountains, fires over your head, takes the landscape behind you at long range, while you are yet jarring on in the shadow.  It is the phenomenon of clouds in a clear sky.  The peaks in the West respond.  They are covered with pinks in full blossom.  It is as if Yesterday were pursuing you and To-day were heading you off.  At last, the unrisen sun begins to define the edges of the mountains.  He ravels them out into fringes of trees, and sharpens the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>THE TEHACHAPI LOVE-KNOT.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Te <HI REND="italics">hacha</HI>
100.sgm: pi! is not a sneeze, but the name of a mob of mountain peaks and crags that disputed the right of way with the Southern Pacific Railroad.  The heights were impracticable, the rocks were immovable, and so the train climbed as high as it could, and crept into a burrow like a fox.  It was an eyelet-hole drilled through and through, and so the train came out on the mountain's other side, found a shelf and climbed again, entered a second tunnel, a third, a fourth, swinging round and up and over and through.  It is a tremendous screw cut out of mountains just to let that train run up the thread.  So we go, skirting one peak, running to earth in another, whipping through seventeen tunnels, taking seventeen stitches in the ragged selvedge, in the distance of ten miles, the engine and the train in two burrows at once.  Now we look down upon four tracks we have come, and now we look up upon three tracks we are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The little roasted village of Caliente lies in the valley four thousand feet below us, and we have been circling above that cigar-box of a town like a hawk over a barnyard.  We bid it a final farewell as often as a star actor takes leave of the public, and round we swing again, and there is bewitching Caliente!  It is a single mile distant, but we have gyrated six miles to make it.  One curve of three-fourths of a mile lifts us seventy-eight feet above our own heads.  We seem to be constantly meeting ourselves, pursuing ourselves, contradicting ourselves.  The summit of Tehachapi is five-sixths of a mile above the sea, and the train climbs one hundred and sixteen feet to the mile for twenty-five miles.  The engine does some tough tugging hereabouts, but then, going one way it runs forty-seven miles without pulling a pound.  All it wants is a snaffle-bit and a hold-back.  It boxes the compass in sixty minutes.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You have seen a cat feeling her cautious way through the currant bushes with her whiskers?  If they touch, she tries another opening; if they clear, she disappears in the greenery; for she knows she carries the measure of her fur clothes at the corners of her mouth.  This train, prowling and feeling its way among the crags of the knobbed world, has a cat-like way of its own.  Highland and lowland, that engine is a wonderful civilizer, and there are only two hundred thousand of her on the globe, but they represent the physical force of a hundred millions of men, and a spanking team of twelve millions of horses.  The double-stranded thread on which these heights are strung, called the Loop, is three thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The tunnels are about as thick as woodchuck holes in a New York pasture, and looking back upon the craggy mouth of one you have just threaded, you wonder how the cat made it without bending her whiskers and rasping her sides.  There is some beauty about these burrows if you watch for it.  Standing upon the rear platform as the train enters the great tunnel of San Fernando, a mile and seventeen hundred feet long, you see <illus entity="a100-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TEHACHAPI PASS LOVE KNOT.</P>
100.sgm:first a round frame with the picture of a rock and a tree in it.  It is a rare medallion.  It grows finer and finer, but clear as an artist's proof all the while, and then it changes into a great harvest moon in the horizon, and the umber-colored smoke tints it down to lunar light.  Then as the train descends the grade of seventy feet in the tunnel, that moon begins to rise, and lessen as it climbs.  The clouds sweep over its face, but leave no stain.  That moon-rise in the mountain heart, with its undrilled welkin of solid rock, is a magical and beautiful illusion.  You watch it with anxious eagerness as you are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>You have noticed a hen before now, standing on one foot in a drizzly, lazy day, and you saw a sort of filmy curtain draw slowly over an eye about as intelligent as a glass bead, while the outside blind was wide open.  Going through tunnel No. 5 of the Loop, I saw that pullet's eye magnified and glorified, and that same curtain--but made of yellow smoke this time--drawn slowly over the unspeculative optic in the absurdest way, while the great rocky eyelid remained lifted under the shaggy brow.  There is something unaccountably ridiculous about both of them.</P>
100.sgm:<P>THE MOJAVE DESERT.</P>
100.sgm:<P>It is at mid-day, under a sky cloudless as the shield of Achilles, that we strike into the great desert of Mojave.  I fancied I crossed a desert on the Overland Train, but it was a blunder.  It was nothing but a batch of Satanic dough.  But here are the cruel, glittering plains, flinty to the feet, fiery to the eye, "and not a drop to drink," thousands of square miles of desolation.  No ruins here but the wrecks and ruins of all the Christian seasons of the year, shut out from the blessed promises of seed-time and harvest, and sending back fierce answer to the noon.  It is the crumbling skeleton of Nature, hopeless of burial and bleaching in the sun.</P>
100.sgm:<P>I cannot realize this transit of the desert in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Away at the left, a sweep of two hundred miles, it is lost in the distance, and far to the front it touches the mountains.  Tufts of raspy grass rigid as knitting-needles are sparsely sprinkled about among leprous patches of white earth.  Everything that grows here is covered with thorns, or spikes, or stings, and seems making a stubborn fight for its life.  What they want to live at all for nobody knows.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A VEGETABLE ACROBAT.</P>
100.sgm:<P>But the Yucca is the triumph of the Desert, and there are thousands of it.  Fancy trees from twelve to twenty feet high, growing in the most fantastic shapes, and covered with deep-green bottle-brushes of foliage, never fading, but bristling all ways in the most irritable manner; their gnarled figures, dark as the black cypress, showing in mournful relief against the ghastly plains <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Nothing more grotesque in the vegetable world can be conceived: the limbs growing out just as it happens, from the trunk and from each other, sometimes live ballclubs with the big ends farthest from the tree, and sometimes oven-brooms for the wind to swing, if there were any more swing to them than there is to the tines of a pitch-fork in a breeze.  Now you see a tree that oddly suggests one of the useless and ornamental waiters that infest hotels with their whisk brooms and open palms, but sprouted out all over with arms and legs, and the tip of every finger and toe finished off with a green brush.  But the most resemble acrobats.  Here a family of limbs make a slender-bodied, long-legged fellow with his lean arms resting on a branch beneath him, and just ready to leap over the top of the tree, which he never does.  If we were not quite sure the Lord made the Yucca to fight and frolic in the Desert, we should lay its manufacture to a Chinaman.  It has a grotesqueness quite "celestial" but not heavenly.  Who knows but these trees are transmigrated champion equestians of the ring, and Mojave a sort of circus-riders' paradise?  You have little idea how those Yucca fellows beguile the way, and I can hardly help thinking of them now as some tribe of East Indian jugglers turned vegetables.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The Yucca has its uses, the trees are being swiftly slain, and a short time will see the plains utterly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>THE MIRAGE.</P>
100.sgm:<P>We had been hoping for the phantasm of the mirage, and we were not disappointed.  Some one cried " <HI REND="italics">mire</HI>
100.sgm:<P>The train halted at a Station, desolate as a lighthouse and as guiltless of door-yard as a gibbet, and a dilapidated stage, a sort of tattered tent on wheels, was waiting there for a victim.  It looked just fit to connect with Charon's ferry and carry second-class passengers and dead-heads.  One man with a pair of saddle-bags climbed into it, and we wondered if he meant to cross the river Styx after he left the coach.  A little while after, we saw an eight-mule team, the wagon under bare hoops, like a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>A field at the right of the train.  white as a cambric handkerchief, sent everybody to the ice-pitcher with thirst.  It was a lake of salt.  A drier piece of waterscape cannot be found between Cancer and Capricorn.  The salt was piled upon the shores of what was no sea, like the snow-forts of the Yankee boys in New England winters, and two wagons were there taking on a load of chloride of sodium.  Sodom would have been at home in it, and Gomorrah also.</P>
100.sgm:<P>This traversing a desert reclining upon a sofa, with your lazy feet on an ottoman, defrauds a man out of the luxury of remembered deprivation and danger.  We should have enjoyed its memory more. had there been anything struggled through and escaped.  Set a fellow on foot behind a mule bankrupt of thistles and with ears wilted down with the drouth: let the fellow's hair turn the color of corn-silk in the sun, and the canteen at his side tinkle loudly with emptiness, and he tighten his belt another hole to gird up his leanness--let <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
100.sgm: come to some blessed edge of the green world at last, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>We are nearing the mountain range of San Fernando.  The entrance of the tunnel yawns for us with hospitable darkness.  We enter it without misgiving.  The disastered night is welcome.  The <HI REND="italics">avant-courier</HI>
100.sgm:<P>THE CITY OF THE ANGELS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Entering the tunnel was a sort of dying out of the waste places, and emerging on the other side was a little like being born into an emerald world.  We hardly knew how much we missed the green fields, the clear waters and the human homes, till we saw them again.  Could the moon be towed alongside the earth and the twain connected by an unlighted hall a mile and a third long, through which a lunatic could come toll-free in ten minutes, the contrast could hardly be finer.  And yet to see the valley and plains of Los Angeles in mid-summer sometimes throws dust in the eyes of enthusiasm.  Tree and shrub, except where transfigured with the witchery of water, are powdery as a miller's coat, and the dry fields and highways are thickly and wastefully strewed with Graham flour that rises without yeast.  Palm leaves are as gray as an elephant's ears, and portions of the landscape have a disused air, as if beauty was about going out of business and moving away, while the heat dances a hot-footed hornpipe upon the top of your hat, and gives you the feeling that somebody <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>I can almost see the fur of indignation rise as some Angelian reads this paragraph, but then we reached the city of "Our Lady" at high noon of an August day, when everything is in curl-papers like a woman's hair before breakfast, and it was an hour too early for the salted breeze to begin to blow from the sea, and the grim maps of the benighted regions of the heathen to be washed from our heated faces, and the cool tinkling of the fountain in the "Pico House" court to be heard, where tropic vines we had never seen were climbing easily and noiselessly about in cool jackets of green.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Then there is ground for suspicion that the warm welcome we received from Mr. JOHN OSBORNE, of the Overland Transfer Company, and Colonel SAMUEL C. HOUGH, of the "Pico House," to both of whom we are indebted for attentions, as unwearied as they were grateful, may have given the thermometers an additional lift and made us a few degrees warmer than if they had turned the cold shoulder.  In an action for slander, let the jury bring me in: "Not guilty, and so say we all!"</P>
100.sgm:<P>Whoever asks where Los Angeles is, to him I shall say: across a desert without wearying, beyond a mountain without climbing; where heights stand away from it, where ocean winds breathe upon it, where the gold-mounted lime-hedges border it; where the flowers catch fire with beauty; among the orange groves; beside the olive trees; where the pomegranates wear calyx crowns; where the figs of Smyrna are turning; where the bananas of Honolulu are blossoming; where the chestnuts of Italy are dropping; where Sicilian lemons are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The city is the product of one era of barbarism, two or three kinds of civilizations, and an interregnum, and is about as old as Washington's body-servant when he died the last time, for it is in its ninety-seventh year.  You meet native Californians, wide-hatted Mexicans, now and then a Spaniard of the old blue stock, a sprinkle of Indians and the trousered man in his shirt and cue.  You see the old broad-brimmed, thick-walled adobes that betray the early day.  You hear somebody swearing Spanish, grumbling German, vociferating Italian, parleying in French, rattling China and talking English.</P>
100.sgm:<P>You read Spanish, French, German and English newspapers, all printed in Los Angeles.  It is many-tongued as a Mediterranean sea-port, and hospitable as a grandee.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Yesterday and to-day are strangely blended.  You stroll among thousands of vines that are ninety years old and yet in full bearing.  You pass a garden just redeemed from the dust and ashes of the wilderness.  You pluck an orange from a tree that was venerable when Charles the Fourth was king of Spain, and you meet a man who has sat down to wait six years for his first fruit.  A drive through the old quarter of the city takes you to the heart of Mexico, with the low-eaved fronts, the windows sunk like niches in the walls, the Italic-faced old porticoes, the lazy dogs dozing about in the sun.  In ten minutes you are whirled between two long lines of new-made Edens whence Eve was never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The Pueblo of the Queen of the Angels was founded by the proclamation of Governor Felipe De Nieve, almost a century ago, and was the Mexican capital of Alta California.  You are startled the first morning by a battle of cracked bells, as if ringing from the necks of a galloping and demoralized herd of cattle stampeding through the city streets.  It is the pitiful complaint of the disabled chime of green bells in the old Parish Church of Los Angeles, and you stroll over to look at the ancient structure.  A gray-haired padre, leaning heavily upon a young priest, "all shaven and shorn," comes slowly out.  The inscription over the portal is: " <HI REND="italics">Los Fieles de esta Parroquia a la Reina de Los Angeles</HI>
100.sgm: "--The Faithful of this Parish to the Queen of the Angels.  The church has a story and has been restored.  The inscription formerly ran: " <HI REND="italics">Los Pobres</HI>
100.sgm:<P>THE ORANGE GROVES.</P>
100.sgm:<P>My idea of an orange grove was of an orchard where the trees laden with golden fruit sprang up from a smooth, green turf "of broken emeralds," that invited you to sit down on the dapple of a shadow every few minutes and be happy; of trees with a tropic brightness of foliage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Nothing of all this belongs to an orange grove.  The trees are tall, straight, symmetrical, not friendly in their way but a little stately, as if they should say: "Behold, we are oranges!" and not much more shadow about their roots than a Lombardy Poplar.  There is no individuality.  Every tree resembles every other tree.  The earth is bare and tilled like a garden.  When you feel like reposing in a well-weeded onion bed you can take lodgings in an orange grove.  Driving through the splendid lines of trees numbering up to the tens of thousands, the whole year hung upon a single one, from the delicate white blossom that graces the bridal veil to the baby fruit, small as a walnut; to the tint of yellow struggling through the green; to the untarnished gold of the rounded and ripened fruit; the air, like a swinging censer, heavy with fragrance, and filled with the hum of bees; the lighter-leafed regiments of lemons, with their bright gilt orreries of fruit; the lime hedges, dotted with diamond editions of the full-grown mothers of lemonade; the cactus fences, all alive, slowly climbing over themselves in diagonals of serried pin-cushions; the bananas bursting into barbaric luxuriance; the earth terraced off for the water to flow in, and, this moment, coursing along the checker-work of channels and shining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:in the sun; the feathery plumage of the pepper tree, touched up with spangles and bugles of brilliant crimson and red; the fan-palms slowly lifting and lowering their great hands in perpetual salute,--all these scenes, lovely as anything in the vale of Cashmere, seem to rebuke your dear rugged home at the Eastward of Eden, and you grow grave when you meant to be gay, and are not quite sure a Rhode Island Greening, and a dough-nut with an orthodox twist, are not better than oranges, bananas and June all the year long.  Here is an orangery of six acres, and five hundred trees fourteen years old, that filled thirty-eight hundred boxes the last season, and its owner sold the crop for six thousand dollars in advance.  A man with a counterpane of a farm and six hundred orange trees can sit in the shade and draw a Star-preacher's salary without passing the plate.  The orange is the true <HI REND="italics">pomum aurantium</HI>
100.sgm:<P>THE VINEYARDS.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The tillage of the vine is the oldest in the world.  It grows in the Old Testament and the New.  It is a native of the Odes of Horace, and thrives in Grecian song.  "Vine" and "wine" have stood up to be married by rhymsters vine, wine, two hundred thousand times in twenty years.  If to one city more than another, of all cities I have seen, belongs the <HI REND="italics">urbs in horto</HI>
100.sgm: of Chicago's seal, Los Angeles is the place.  It is not only a city in the garden, but a garden in the city.  The two are interwoven like the blossoming warp and woof of a Wilton carpet.  We visited the vine-yard and wine-presses of Don Matteo Keller.  It is in the heart of the city, and contains one hundred and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>A vineyard is a torrid region in August, with hardly shadow enough to shelter a sheep.  The broad leaves of the vines shining in the sun are warm to look at; the great purple clusters, like those the two pictured Israelites are bringing home from the Promised Land swung upon a pole, and the tip grapes of the pyramids touching the ground, are all about you as you walk.  You are in Colonel B. D. Wilson's vineyard of two hundred and fifty acres, a quarter of a million vines around you, two and a half million pounds of grapes slung up by the stems, and two hundred and fifty thousand gallons of wine "in the original package."</P>
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100.sgm:<P>Let us escape to a great willow.  Let us strike into the stately hall with its walls of live orange and its cornices of leaves.  You are a little afraid of scorpions, but people tell you that while not much, in the way of personal beauty, they are not near so fatal as Daniel Boone's rifle.  Looking in the Dictionary, you find it is "a pedipalpous, pulmonary arachnidan," with a pair of forceps coming out of its forehead.  This is certainly pretty bad, but in the next sentence Webster comforts you with--"very seldom destructive of life."  Tarantulas also.  My friend cracked one over "the dead line" with his whiplash just now, and the party flung its eyes about regardless of expense as it strolled over a dry plain.  But then, to balance the books, we have--Los Angeles:  <HI REND="italics">Cr</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"A BEE RANCH."</P>
100.sgm:<P>I quote it because it is none of my verbal sins.  To call a place where bees are harbored and robbed, a ranch, is about as bad as to name the grazing range of lowing herds a cattle academy.  But to quote Webster at a Californian because he confounds hacienda with rancho would only be to provoke him to make a Dictionary of his own; so I leave him to "band" his sheep and herd his bees as he pleases.  If bees are either cattle, sheep or horses, then there is such a thing as a bee ranch.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The sun beat, like a drummer in a spasm, upon the parchment-dry earth as we rode ten miles out to a bee village.  It was some comfort to see the mountain, "Gray Back," snowy as a bride's cake, with its undated frosting, even if it was ninety miles away; and a grand orange-tree avenue to a vineyard, with its deep green foliage, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Stumbling over the mountain toes, and up to the instep of the foot-hills, we entered a Bee Town.  There, were the white, flat-roofed cottages, hundreds of them, in regular streets, and the bees, Italian hybrids, with less gold lace on their uniforms than our Eastern pagans of the old straw hives, were coming and going.  If you can keep from sneezing, and are not taken with St. Vitus's dance, and your horses never emulate Job's chargers, and say "ha ha!" you are as safe as if nobody in that community carried concealed weapons.  The population of this village--it was never incorporated on account of the taxes--is not less than five millions.  New York, with all its dependencies, would be a mere suburb.  The proprietor is a courteous Southron, lean, and long in the flank as a panther, and children as thick about him as the young shoots of a cottonwood.  The bee is the most overworked animal in California, and is miserably imposed upon by the only creature that can match him in geometry.</P>
100.sgm:<P>His working day begins at four o'clock in the morning and lasts fifteen hours.  Often so far from home at sunset that he cannot return, he puts up for the night at some wayside inn, and you often see him coming slowly in at sunrise with his heavy burden.  In more inclement climates a night out is a life out, for the bee "that hesitates is lost."  His usual foraging range is a circle about twelve miles in diameter, and he pastures upon plains and mountains that a crow of moderate means would never halt at.  He extracts honey from the wild sage, willow, wild buckwheat, barberry, coffee bean, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>"Yes, we keep 'em to work.  When the comb is filled and capped, we just uncap it by passing a hot knife-blade over it, fasten the comb in this hollow cylinder here, set it going, the honey is all whirled out into a reservoir below, we restore the empty cells, and the puzzled bees go at it again."</P>
100.sgm:<P>A curious case of litigation just then was exciting a little interest.  The owner of a vineyard was the apiarist's next neighbor.  Now a bee will not puncture an unbroken grape, but when it is crushed the honey-maker is its best customer.  He drinks like a Rhinelander.  When the season for wine-making came, a few bees went over in a friendly way, though taking their rapiers along, returned to the village with a good report, and the whole community never stood "on the order of their going," but made for the press, drove off the workmen and took possession.  The air was fairly dusty with bees.  Where the grapes are trodden out as in Bible times, and as sometimes in California, though nobody owns it, the lazy, bare-foot tramp is accelerated to a quick-step out of the neighborhood.  Therefore the patroon was ordered to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:keep his bees at home and sued for trespass.  But how can such unruly flocks and herds be fenced in?  And so the defendant rejoined that the vine-dresser could protect his press with a wire gauze that would keep the busy aggressors on the right side of it, which is the outside.  The case of Wine <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
100.sgm:<P>THE MISSION OF SAN GABRIEL.</P>
100.sgm:<P>It was a splendid pilgrimage ten miles out, into the valley of San Gabriel and the old Mission.  To the north is the Coast Range with a white proof-sheet of winter pinned upon Gray Back like a vandyke, beyond us a rolling plain with samples, you would say, of all sorts of soil from cinder-and-ashes and gravel to dark loam, a sort of jumble of the remnants of a geological ware-house.  But no matter about the soil.  All you want is a watering-pot or a waterspout, or something rather wet.  All fruits and flowers are spelled out with the one word irrigation.  On this plain, where the horses' hoofs tick like nail hammers, too hard-baked for a cracker and not quite hard enough for a brick, grass springs rank and strong from December to June, then makes hay of itself of its own accord, and lasts out the year.</P>
100.sgm:<P>We begin to see orchards, vineyards, cottages; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>A woman unlocked the ancient door, and bare-headed and silent we entered in.  Some neophyte had written, "Hats off.  Pray don't talk," but with the thoughtful there was no need.  Hollow as a cave and solemn as a tomb, the floor spoke back to the footfall.  We saw the censers and the saints, the crosses and the crowns, the tattered tapestries that came from Spain to be unrolled in the desert, all faded like an old man's eyes.  We stood, and not irreverently, upon the worn stone dished like the scale of Justice, by feet that turned long ago into leaves and flowers.  Here clouds of incense and vespers rose harmonious, and the nocturn, a sweet song in the night, deepened into matins in the morning.  We did not hear the chime of bells that came from the Spanish furnace rich with gold and silver offerings that were flung into it, and are heard in every tone of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:necklace of melody even until this day.  They are trinkets as safe from all thieves as treasures laid up in Heaven.  Borne across the sea to a wilderness without a name, they have rung out upon the charmed air for a hundred years like three bell-birds of Brazil.  But as has been well said by Major BEN. C. TRUMAN, of Los Angeles, they are only links in the endless chain of melody flung from San Diego to the Red River of the North.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The bells of the Roman Mission<LB>That call from their turrets twain,<LB>To the boatman on the river,<LB>To the hunter on the plain."<LB></HI>
100.sgm:<P>We went through a side door into the poor, neglected city of the silent.  It has survived grief and friends.  It is too old.  Gray, wooden crosses lean this way and that, over graves that are nameless.  Sealed tombs are crumbling.  It lies there under the church wall in the glare of the sun, the autograph of death and desolation scrawled upon the dusty, thirsty and insatiate earth.  It is consecrated ground, but dishonored by neglect.  What would we have?  Is there more than one man that can weep at the grave of Adam?  Does anybody set pansies on the grave of his mother-in-law?</P>
100.sgm:<P>THE GARDEN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The Mission Garden is not as old as the Garden of Eden, but it was a cultivated spot, for all that, when there was not a State between Pennsylvania and the Pacific ocean but the state of Nature, and when saddles, bateaux, dug-outs and moccasins were the only means of conveyance.  We came to a high wall and a low adobe, and halted in the shade of a great palm seventy feet high planted by a Franciscan two generations ago.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>My humane counsel prevailed, and we all went to the low door of the adobe.  A battered old hatchet tethered by a string hung from the door-post for a knocker, and some one lifted it and smote the heavy gray portal, and a Spanish woman opened it and admitted us with a smile.  She was eighty, and no dentist's window ever showed so handsome a set of teeth, even, white, none gone, and hers by birthright; and her hair, just silvered to the tint of beauty, was as rich and heavy as the mane of Bucephalus.  We saw the fire-place wide and deep as a cave and the quaint smoky furniture, and went out into the garden.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Here we were, where the Franciscan Fathers had paced, and veiled sisters flitted in the morning twilight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>There is no implement on the premises less than a half century old.  The walks are dusty, the borders are ragged, the trees have grown wanton and willful.  Everything is a hundred years old but the madre and the dogs.  Those dogs!  Come to see them, one weighs less than eight pounds, and his bark is bigger than his body.  But the earth has not forgotten its cunning, nor the sun been shorn of his glory.  There is no hurry here in anything but growing.  Kill the dogs, and Sterne's starling would never have sung here to get out, and Cowper's hare would have slept undisturbed in her form.  The old glories of the Mission have departed.  As we filed out of the door some one said a friendly word to the woman.  I can see her pleasant mouth as, with a smile flickering across her white teeth, as if some one passed by with a light, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Went out to see a girl!  And her name, it is Ulailie Perez Geuillen.  Her father was a soldier in Lower California, her mother followed the regiment, and she was born in the Presidio Loretta.  But the girl had gone visiting, and she has figured in a lawsuit.  She had some friends who wanted to take her to the Centennial Exposition, and others who resisted.  So, one party stole her, and the other replevied her.  When the Mission church was built and the Mission garden was planted, Ulailie was old enough to catch a bee in a hollyhock, to tell her beads and say her paternoster.  She is seven years older than the United States of America, for she was born in 1769.  She retains her faculties, for though she has not danced a fandango or beat the castanets in eighty or ninety years, she knows a tarantula from a tortilla with the naked eye.  She can read as readily without spectacles as she did at eighteen.  The fact, however, is not so noteworthy as it would be had Ulailie ever learned to read at all.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The return to Los Angeles was in the burden and heat of the day, and the "Pico House" was grateful as the shadow of a great rock in a weary land.  Thinking over the facts, I must express the conviction that no place between the oceans and North of the Gulf of Mexico offers so delightful a refuge from the inclemency of hyperborean winters as Los Angeles, and I trust it will prove in the future as it has been in the past, the city of good angels to thousands of fugitives from the "tempestuous wind called Euroclydon."</P>
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100.sgm:<P>Returning from San Gabriel to the city a-flying, we sat in the pleasant court of the "Pico House" with pleasant friends, and heard the story of a running vine that is yet hurrying about, looking for Longfellow's immortal Latin comparative.  The runner, on a growing night, mounted a ladder of pencil-marks on the frame, at the rate of an inch an hour, and several truthful gentlemen watched it go up, and not one of them could have overtaken that vine in all night if he had been compelled to climb the same ladder!</P>
100.sgm:<P>Our brief visit was ended, and bidding good-by to the friends we had found, we betook ourselves to the mountains and the desert and the valleys, and with bright memories of the old Franciscan paradise, we became San Franciscans ourselves.</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LAST.</HEAD>
100.sgm:<P>KINGS OF SOCIETY.</P>
100.sgm:<P>In old California the Agamemnons, the kings of men, were the cattle-kings.  They were the leaders of society.  Their daughters were the belles of balls by virtue of the herds their fathers owned.  The crack of the herder's whip was music.  Over tens of thousands of acres, tens of thousands of cattle ranged at will.  The ranches were principalities and duchies.  In Europe their masters would have been dukes and princes.  The blue blood of California was the blood of a bullock.  Below them in the social scale were the owners of swine, but bristles had no entrance into the bellowing realm where tossing horns were the cornucopi&aelig;.  Bitter were the envyings of the daughters of the household of pork, and many a swineherd has yielded to their importunities and turned bacon into beef.  And why is not beef as good a basis for position as bullion?  "Answer me that and unyoke!"  Then came the mining monarchs and the mighty shepherds, and the grain potentates, and the railroad magnates.  Fortunes of silver and gold in a week; broad harvests controlled by the scratch of one man's awkward pen.  A railroad must traverse the broad State, or it is a bagatelle.  In all this there is no such thing as a safe mediocrity.  Think of a country where it is possible to say, as of Colonel W. W. Hollister, of Santa Barbara: "He used to be in the sheep business, but is now nearly out of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Visit Dr. Glenn's "little farm well tilled," lying on the west bank of the Sacramento, with a river front of thirty miles, with its twenty-three thousand acres under cultivation, fifteen thousand of wheat and six hundred of barley, its fifteen hundred horses and mules, and its hundreds of men.  Think of forty-nine gang-plows going at once; harvest machinery driven by three engines; harrows enough to demand the muscle and patience of two hundred mules.  Think of a harvest time kindly distributed through the year, from the fifteenth of May to the first of October, making all these things possible.  See that field of alfalfa.  It yielded two tons an acre in March, and was cut six times during the season.</P>
100.sgm:<P>What would Joel Barlow, poet-laureate of maize, have said to such a grouping of the seasons in one landscape and day, as this: Corn in the blade, corn in the tassel, corn in the sild, corn in the milk, corn in the gold, corn in the heap?  And the first shall overtake the second, and the second the third--a sort of Grecian torch race along the line of almost perennial harvests.  Make us up a bouquet of May, June, July, and September, and tie them with a ribbon of Longfellow's verse to grace this story:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"And the maize-field grew and ripened,<LB>Till it stood in all the splendor<LB>Of its garments green and yellow,<LB>Of its tassels and its plumage."<LB></HI>
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100.sgm:<P>Think of a single vine in Yuba County bearing twenty-six hundred pounds of genuine squash in a year, equal to the manufacture of two thousand Thanksgiving pies; of a eucalyptus four feet in diameter and sixty feet high, that was in the seed six years ago; of a tomato plant laden with love-apples the fourth year of its bearing; of onions twenty-two inches about, that old Connecticut Wethersfield would have wept over with exceeding joy; of a sixteen-pounder of a potato; of cabbages weighing fifty pounds a head, that in Wolfert Webber's time would have made him a burgerme&acute;ester of New Amsterdam--and these cabbage plants, if not watched, will turn into perennials, attaining the height of six feet, and yet growing; of a rose in the public-school grounds at Hayward's, blooming in February and March, a hundred feet in circumference; of building a cottage in it thirty feet square and fourteen feet high, and nobody needing to know it is there, with the thousands of flowers looming up like a fragrant pink cloud on every side.</P>
100.sgm:<P>If Nature lengthens the harvest time to suit the convenience of the grain kings of California, yet nowhere in the world has a plate of light white biscuits been brought a minute nearer to the standing grain rustling with ripeness.  One five o'clock in the morning of a summer day in 1877, on the Rancho Chico, the first header wagon brought a load of wheat to the machine to be threshed; two sacks were thrown into a wagon, whirled away two miles to mill, turned into flour, and a house-wife's clean knuckles were kneading it and moulding it at half-past six, and at seven the biscuits were heaped upon a plate ready for butter and appetite.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Nowhere else in America but in San Francisco can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>Enormous wealth suddenly acquired, wealth that distances the fables of the Orient, exists on "the Coast," and enormous wealth is one of the most barbarous and cruel things on earth.  It does not spare its possessors.  It is relentless.  It chills them with anxiety and chains them with cares.  They fill their own horizons, and there is nothing visible beyond.  It is a monarch reigning over itself.  It is selfishness crowned king.  Such wealth seldom does a generous thing, and seldom thinks a wise one.  We wonder why, but in its place we should find it as natural as breathing.  Nobody is so liberal as he that has little to give, and nobody so grasping as he who holds the world in his hand.  In the unstable footing of these behemoths of Plutus is the universal salvation of society.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>One after another, sooner or later, they must come down, and their loss will make a gainer of the world.  Then for the first time they will forgive people for being poor, and listen for somebody to say to them, "Go and sin no more."  When Cr&oelig;sus gives munificently he gives for Cr&oelig;sus' sake.  His name must christen the charity, be graven upon the tablet.  It is his right.  It is the luxury that his princely coffers can procure him, and who shall pass sumptuary laws to restrain him?  The genuine Californian is proud of his golden lions, but he does not bend the knee to them.  Some time or another he has been a lion himself, and familiarity is not the mother of reverence.  To modify the proverb, when a man is his own valet he never takes off his hat, to himself.</P>
100.sgm:<P>There is nothing here if it is not tremendous.  It is a sort of feudal system revived upon the Pacific Coast.  And here comes in the question of cheap labor.  Here the temptation to fill the land with heathendom; to make labor degrading because the business of serfs and coolies, and to banish the white toiler from California.  There is a sentimental view of the situation, made up of references to all sorts of Fathers, Pilgrim, Revolutionary and Declaration, that denounces any prohibition of Chinese immigration, and spreads an eagle over it, and makes America the welcome home of everything from a grasshopper to a coolie, and fashions a capital piece of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:demagogic eloquence out of the whole thing.  It is simply a question of Christendom <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
100.sgm:<P>LATITUDES.</P>
100.sgm:<P>I can hardly repress a smile when I think of the uplifted hands of horror with which the dear old fathers of the Eastern churches would have regarded things here that hardly excite a comment.  They would have looked for Noah or a life-preserver or an asbestos clothing-store, or some other defense against fire and water.  They could not have understood what a difference it makes with a man whether his pulses beat with blood or quicksilver.  But those who sail over the old parallels of latitude by-and-large believe in fair play.  In no State of the Union is a camp-meeting or a religious assembly more exempt from interference than in California.  Convene it in a can&tilde;on adjoining a mining-camp, or in some suburban resort, and it is safe from all harm.  "Give every man a chance" is incorporated in the proverbial philosophy of the land.  The man who has just tipped a tumbler of what he calls in his random recklessness, "The coal-burner's ecstasy" or "The sheep-herder's delight," or taken a chew of the lovely narcotic called "The Terrible Temptation," will tighten his belt another hole at the first symptom of anybody's disturbing a religious meeting, and sail in with "Give the parson a chance," or "the devil his due," or whatever expression he is most familiar with, to express his advocacy of fair play.  It is a rough sense of honor with the bark on.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Nearly everything will grow in California but reverence.  It seldom gets knee-high.  And yet nothing is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>"There is something I want to say to you, if I can do it without giving offense."</P>
100.sgm:<P>"What is it?" asked his companion; "I am sure it cannot be anything unpleasant."  He still hesitated, but finally brought it out thus: "If you wouldn't mind it--I should like--to say--God bless you!"</P>
100.sgm:<P>"Why, of course," replied the amused recipient of the beatitude; "why shouldn't I like it?  What idea can you have of us out here?"</P>
100.sgm:<P>"Ah, but," replied the old man, "I said it to a person up in the country, and he flew into a passion and swore frightfully, and I was afraid I had done him more harm than good."</P>
100.sgm:<P>No city in America is governed more easily and with less show of authority than San Francisco.  It seems to govern itself.  With elements enough to make a second Babel more confused than the first, it is comparatively quiet and well ordered.  Policemen are seldom seen.  The mayor appears to be a sort of ornamental figure-head.  The aldermen are nowhere.  The city moves peacefully on.  Theft is rare; bold robbery a thing almost unknown.  Every day you see slender boys darting about the city shouldering canvas bags; old men laboring under canvas bags that seem heavy enough to have a package of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:concentrated attraction of gravitation in them; everywhere canvas bags.  Those little grists are money-purses containing gold and silver coin.  Scores of thousands of dollars are flirted about the city every day.  There goes an old expressman with twenty thousand in gold lying exposed in his rickety old vehicle. He is going across the city with it.  Everybody sees, nobody minds.  You can set a bag down on a sidewalk or in an office, and chat with a friend.  It may contain thousands, and it will be waiting for you when you are done talking.  Try this whisking about of bags of money in Eastern cities, and see what will come of it!  You seek the reason of this security, and you find it in three things: the rough sense of honor inherited from the old days; the fact that almost every long resident has had the handling and ownership of just such bags himself; the salutary traditions, neither dim nor distant, of that tremendous institution, the Vigilance Committee, which punished the beginning of offenses with the ending of the law, which is the <HI REND="italics">rope's</HI>
100.sgm:<P>THE SPIRIT OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The spirit of California has been grossly caricatured.  It is not a land of profanity and slang.  The Dutch Flat and Mining Camp literature that has been dished up in equal parts of bad grammar, shrewdness and blasphemy, and called touches of nature; the villains that have been rhetorically made up, girdled with zodiacs of knives and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>That the old stock was rough, venturous, dreamy and visionary, the fact that they dared savage nature and more savage savages to get here is ample proof; that the traces of the free consciences that slipped their bridles and ran wild in the new land yet remain, nobody can deny.  People sow their wild oats here earlier and later, and harvest them oftener than elsewhere.  But is it to be wondered at, when Nature herself has not done sowing her own?  You can see them by hundreds of acres among the mountains.  They are beef and mutton in disguise.  Let us hope something quite as good for the wild oats of humanity.  The world they left has gone on without them.  They have developed a new and peculiar civilization, whose points of contact with the old are very few and very slight indeed.  It is easy to be respectable in California, but it is the most difficult thing to be famous.  A twenty-thousand ox-team power will draw you to the pinnacle.  Get into the one dish of the scales and put a million in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The unadulterated Californian is hopelessly <HI REND="italics">himself</HI>
100.sgm:<P>Out of the elements of character sketched in these pages, the reader will rightly infer that the genuine Californian is a lover of poetry.  He prefers it to prose; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:sips it with the soup, and munches it with the filberts.  It is verse <HI REND="italics">ab ovo usque ad mala</HI>
100.sgm:<P>There are more writers of verse in San Francisco and its suburbs than in the whole State of New York.  They have poems at picnics and clam-bakes.  Farther East, poetry on a public occasion is generally regarded like an extra length of tail to a cat--of no special utility, for it does not help her to catch mice--and people speak of a poem much as a lion would sniff at a pink when he is waiting for a beef-steak.  California is the rhymster's paradise.</P>
100.sgm:<P>A Black Sea of ink floods acres of paper in San Francisco.  Of dailies, weeklies and monthlies there are ninety, and it takes eight languages to go round--English, German, Scandinavian, French, Italian, Spanish, Chinese, and a touch of Hebrew.  The newspapers, as a race, are bright, sharp, aggressive, Californian.  You miss the old familiar names of <HI REND="italics">Tribune, Herald, Times, Sun, World</HI>
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100.sgm:<P>THE MEN AND WOMEN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>In any Eastern sense there is no rural life in California, and the thing called rustic simplicity is unknown.  To be sure, you can find a miner coiled in a hole in the hill like a woodchuck at home.  You can find places where it is always border land and camp-life.  You can share somebody's shake-down with your feet to the fire, walled in with mud like a barn swallow.  But the instant you rise to the dignity of a home, with women and comforts in it, fig-leaves disappear and Eve's flounces grow artistic.  You meet farmers on California street, which is the Wall street of San Francisco, and you cannot distinguish them from the <HI REND="italics">habitues</HI>
100.sgm: of the place.  There is no rustic cast to their coats, no hay in their hair, nor is it gnawed square across with the family shears.  The language of the city is the vernacular of the country.  Provincialisms are as rare as gold eagles in contribution boxes.  Rural simplicity, which means living and doing like their grandmothers, does not exist.  They have done with their grandmothers.  Find a place that seems as isolated as a mid-ocean island, with neither lightning nor steam, and the dwellers are not prisoners.  There is not a slip of a girl in the house but can mount a horse, as vicious at both ends as an Irishman's shillelah and chronically wound up for a twelve hours' gallop, and ride to Vanity Fair without minding it.  People that are born on horseback, in countries where there is any place to ride to, can never be very primitive.  And so it is that bits of city life and talk and notions can be found anywhere in the State, and the tint of green that Webster's milkmaid meant to have is worn by nobody.  I have not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>California is wonderful in wonders.  There is everything in gold but the "golden mean."  Her trees keep on growing like Babel's tower, and as if the law had forgotten them.  The Eastern dots of flowers are discs.  They wax like crescent moons.  Her springs expand to summers, and her summers are all the year.  Her face is eloquent with the charm of valleys, the sweep of plains and the might of mountains.  It is a sweet, strong face, full of character and never to be forgotten, where desert and wilderness, beauty and grandeur, age and youth, forever struggle for the mastery and never triumph.  As Talleyrand said of Spain, California "is a country in which two and two make five."</P>
100.sgm:<P>But men and women are the most wonderful product of California, and the problem of the continent.  If not actually born there, she adopts them in five years into full brother and sisterhood.</P>
100.sgm:<P>If ever anywhere men needed one "pull-back" and women two, it is in California.  In a hundred years, unless men of brains in the right region take the helm, the Coast will be a land whose luxurious wickedness will be equaled only by its energy, its liberality and its courage.  It will have great poets and painters.  It will have grand sculptors and musicians.  They must come, for the climate craves them, but the poets will sing of love like Anacreon, and Cleopatra will sit oftener than Ruth for her picture, and poor Dorcas not at all, and the "Peeping Toms" of Coventry will go unrebuked.  The sculptors will lend to lip and limb a semi-tropical languor that is not weakness, and the musicians will score new measures, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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100.sgm:<P>The children that are springing into maturity without permission, and without waiting for time, are electric with vitality.  You think, sometimes, that a dozen of them would make a battery strong enough to send a telegram around the world.  And they <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
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100.sgm:<P>When the mines shall be impoverished and the men who worked them pass into tradition, the State will not be bankrupt, for the seasons will turn miners, and silver and gold will grow from the ground over countless acres now lazily sleeping in the sun.  The wild and misty imaginings of the adventurer will vanish before the broader, steadier light of a better day, when men will toil under an enduring promise that summer and winter, seed-time and harvest, shall not fail.  The training of the mountains in chemistry and hydraulics will set fountains playing and grasses growing where waters never fell nor herbage sprung.  What ought not the world to demand of a land where music, poetry, painting and architecture can flourish in the open air; where the stars march in splendor and review before the eyes of Science for half the year, through cloudless skies; where man has nothing to fight but indolence and himself?</P>
100.sgm:<P>If the ten talents are shaken from the napkin, and California is true to her opportunity, the world will wonder at the new civilization, and the evening sun, as he puts to sea, with his royal standard dipping and its glory trailing along the threshold of the Golden Gate, will bid good night to no truer Promised Land in the round world.  The words of Bishop Berkeley will be born again in all the beauty of a fresh inspiration, and inscribed to this Ultima Thule of the new geography according to man:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Westward the Star of Empire takes its way:<LB>The first four acts already past,<LB>The fifth shall close the drama of the day,<LB>The noblest and the last!"<LB></HI>
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100.sgm:<P>HOME AGAIN.</P>
100.sgm:<P>It is a bright winter morning; the snow is clean and crisp under foot as a new bank-note; the smokes from the kitchen fires go straight up and kindle and are glorified in the sun; a cloud of snow-birds has rained merrily down and dotted a drift; I am writing the closing paragraphs of this rambling book.</P>
100.sgm:<P>The broad days of sunshine rise in the West full upon my thought; the stately trees, the royal mountains, the revel of the flowers, the tonic of the air, the breezes of the sea, the loveliness of the valleys, the welcome of the friends.  And yet the charm of a beech-and-maple fire, with the andirons leg-deep in the fallen rubies, and the robin-mouthed tea-kettle on the crane, and a brick in the jamb dished out by the tongs, the faithful old pair! that, leaning so long in one place, have grown magnetic in both legs, fits my fancy better than a marble mantel set on fire with flowers that are never quenched; and the cleft logs in a glow, which were shafts aforetime with sugar running down within and squirrels running up without, warm my hands and my heart as well.</P>
100.sgm:<P>One of the most suggestive objects in California is not Shasta, but the granite rock in the Yo Semite that some day gave a lunge into the air and never came down.  And because almost every pilgrim yawl of cloud idling about in the valley's offing is pretty sure to touch at granite landing in the sky, it is called Cloud's Rest.  I myself have seen a small white craft, the only one in sight, make the aerial wharf and wait until the freshening wind drifted the waif away.  I named it Abde-el, which is the Cloud of God.</P>
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100.sgm:<P>It is pleasant to go sailing on the sea.  It is delightful to go gypsying on the land, but there comes a time when we crave an anchorage, some blessed Salem or Manoah, some place of rest.  I was sorry for the little Abde-el that it could not tarry at the landing in the blue, and so, whatever it be, a bank of violets or a drift of snow, I join the world in the restful song of <illus entity="a100-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THERE'S NO PLACE LIKE HOME!</P>
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100.sgm:<DIV><AD><P><HI REND="italics">PUBLISHED BY S. C. GRIGGS &amp; CO., CHICAGO</HI>
100.sgm:<P>THE WORLD ON WHEELS, and Other Sketches.--</P>
100.sgm:<P>BY BENJ. F. TAYLOR.  Illustrated. I vol., 12mo.  Price, $1.50.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"Full of humor and sharp as a Damascus blade."-- <HI REND="italics">Presbyterian, Phil a</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"The pen-pictures of B. F. Taylor are among the most brilliant and eccentric productions of the day.  They are like the music of Gottschalk played by Gottschalk himself; or like sky-rockets that burst in the zenith, and fall in showers of fiery rain.  They are word-wonders, reminding us of necromancy, with the dazzle and bewilderment of their rapid succession."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Tribune</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Reader, do you want to laugh?  Do you want to cry?  Do you want to climb the Jacob's ladder of imagination, and dwell among the clouds of fancy for a little while at least?  Do you?  Then get B. F. Taylor's World on Wheels, read it, and experience sensations you never felt before!  It is a book of `word pictures,' a string of pearls, the very poesy of thought."-- <HI REND="italics">The Christian, St. Louis</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Another of Benj. F. Taylor's wonderful word painting books.  In purity of style and originality of conception, Taylor has no superiors in this country.  The book before us is a gem in every way.  It is quaint, poetical, melodious, unique, rare as rare flowers are rare.  He has an exquisite faculty of illustration that is unsurpassed in the whole range of American literature."-- <HI REND="italics">St. Louis Dispatch</HI>
100.sgm:<P>OLD-TIME PICTURES and SHEAVES of RHYME.</P>
100.sgm:<P>BY BENJ. F. TAYLOR.  Red line edition, small quarto, silk cloth, with eight fine full page illustrations.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Price<HSEP>$2 00</P>
100.sgm:<P>The same, full gilt edges and gilt side<HSEP>2 50</P>
100.sgm:<P>JOHN G. WHITTIER <HI REND="italics">writes</HI>
100.sgm::--"It gives me pleasure to see the poems of B. F. Taylor issued by your house in a form worthy of their merit.  Such pieces as the ` <HI REND="italics">Old Village Choir,' `The Skylark,' `The Vane on the Spire</HI>
100.sgm:,' and ` <HI REND="italics">Fune</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Unless it be Whittier, we know of no American poet so sweet, tender and gentle in his lyrics as B. F. Taylor.  No writer of to-day sings the praises of rural life and scenery as eloquently, and we do not wonder that many of his poems have become classic.  The holiday volume of his happy verses, OLD TIME PICTURES AND SHEAVES OF RHYME is a very eloquent and daintily bound volume, and comes from that growing and reliable publishing house of the West, S. C. Griggs &amp; Company, of Chicago.  Taking up this handsomely printed book, we have to linger on the delightful imagery and graceful diction of its pages, glowing as they are with pure and tender thoughts, and the earnest, indescribable music of sunny fields and rural joys.  No one can read it but will be the better for so doing."-- <HI REND="italics">The Albany Morning Express.</HI>
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100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>PICTURES OF LIFE IN CAMP AND FIELD--By BENJ. F. TAYLOR, Author of "The World on Wheels," "Songs of Yesterday," etc.</P>
100.sgm:<P>12mo, cloth<HSEP>$1.50</P>
100.sgm:<P>"The descriptions are singularly brilliant."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Sunday Times</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"The book will greatly interest large classes of readers."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Gazette</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"A volume that embalms such stories of the nation's sorest hour of trial, cannot lack for thrilled and tearful readers."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Tribune</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"The war annals of ancient or modern times, from C&aelig;sar's campaigns to the Franco-Prussian war, will furnish material no more beautifully wrought up than this, by the word-artist of the Great Rebellion."-- <HI REND="italics">New England Journal of Education</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Every letter is replete with pathos; every description is a power, and most of the anecdotes touching in the extreme.  It is almost impossible to say which of these letters is best, but taken as a whole, they have formed a book that will live.-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Times</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"The beauty of diction, amazing life-likeness, stirring action and rich coloring of these word-pictures of camp and field, have had a deservedly popular reception....The art of the writer of these letters is marvelous...Their correctness as to facts is seldom to be questioned, and the beauty of the descriptions never."-- <HI REND="italics">Syracuse Journal</HI>
100.sgm:<P>SONGS OF YESTERDAY.--By BENJ. F. TAYLOR.  Elegantly Illustrated.  Octavo, with handsomely ornamented cover in black and gold.  Price, full gilt edges, $3 00; Morocco, $6 00.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"A dainty, delicious, and charming book, made attractive by all the service of art."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian at Work, N.Y</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"`Songs of Yesterday,' by B. F. Taylor, are among the very best home poems that have yet been written, and are a series of home pictures as perfect as can possibly be painted by pen."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Daily Bulletin</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"The volume is magnificently gotten up, nor is the art of the printer and binder the only valuable thing about the book; that simply appeals to the eye; the contents appeal to the heart.  There is a simplicity, a tenderness and pathos, intermingled always with a quiet humor, about his writings, which is expressibly charming.  Some of the poems in the present volume are destined to as wide a popularity as Longfellow's `Village Blacksmith,' or Whittier's `Maud Muller.'  Of these are `Mary Butler's Ride,' `Going to Spelling School,' and the `Psalm Book in the Garret.'  What is there in the range of American poetry more beautiful than the concluding stanzas of the latter?"-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Transcript</HI>
100.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>GETTING ON IN THE WORLD; or, Hints on Success in Life.--By WM. MATHEWS, LL.D., Professor of English Literature etc., in the University of Chicago.  Beautifully printed and handsomely bound.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Price, I vol., 12mo., Cloth<HSEP>$2</P>
100.sgm:<P>The same, gilt edges<HSEP>2 50</P>
100.sgm:<P>Half calf binding, gilt top<HSEP>$3 50</P>
100.sgm:<P>Full calf, gilt edges<HSEP>5 00</P>
100.sgm:<P>CONTENTS:-- <HI REND="italics">Success and Failure--Good and Bad Luck--Choice of a Profession--Physical Culture--Concentration--Self-Reliance--Originality in Aims and Methods--Attention to Details--Practical Talent--Decision--Manner--Business Habits--Self-Advertising--The Will and the Way--Reserved Power--Economy of Time--Money, its Use and Abuse--Mercantile Failures--Over-Work and Under-Rest--True and False Success</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"A book in the highest degree attractive, * * and which will be sure to <HI REND="italics">pay in dollars and cents</HI>
100.sgm: many times over the cost of the work, and the time devoted to its perusal."-- <HI REND="italics">Lockport Journal, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"It is sound, morally and mentally.  It gives no one-sided view of life; it does not pander to the lower nature; but it is high-toned, correctly toned throughout. * * There is an earnestness and even eloquence in this volume which makes the author appear to speak to us from the living page.  It reads like a speech.  There is an electric fire about every sentence."-- <HI REND="italics">Episcopal Register, Philadelphia</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"There is no danger of speaking in too high terms of praise of this volume.  As a work of art it is a gem.  As a counselor it speaks the wisdom of the ages.  As a teacher it illustrates the true philosophy of life by the experience of eminent men of every class and calling.  It warns by the story of signal failures, and encourages by the record of triumphs that seemed impossible.  It is a book of facts and not of theories.  The men who have succeeded in life are laid under tribute, and made to divulge the secret of their success.  They give vastly more than `hints;' they make a revelation.  They show that success lies not in luck, but in pluck.  Instruction and inspiration are the chief features of the work which Prof. Mathews has done in this volume."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Era, Boston</HI>
100.sgm:<P>THE GREAT CONVERSERS, and Other Essays.--By WM. MATHEWS, LL.D., author of "Getting On in the World."</P>
100.sgm:<P>I volume, 12mo., 306 pages, with Map, price<HSEP>$1 75</P>
100.sgm:<P>"As fascinating as anything in fiction."-- <HI REND="italics">Concord Monitor</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"These pages are crammed with interesting facts about literary men and literary work."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Evening Mail</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"They are written in that charming and graceful style, which is so attractive in this author's writings, and the reader is continually reminded by their ease and grace of the elegant compositions of Goldsmith and Irving."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Transcript</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Twenty essays, all treating lively and agreeable themes, and in the easy, polished and sparkling style that has made the author famous as an essayist.  The most striking characteristic of Prof. Mathews' writing is its wonderful wealth of illustration.  One will make the acquaintance of more authors in the course of a single one of his essays than are probably to be met with in the same limited space anywhere else in the whole realm of our literature."-- <HI REND="italics">The Chicago Tribune</HI>
100.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>WORDS; THEIR USE AND ABUSE, By Prof. Wm. Mathews, Author of "Getting on in the World," "The Great Conversers," Etc.,<HSEP>$2 00.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"A book of rare interest."-- <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn Eagle</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Every page sparkles with literary gems."-- <HI REND="italics">The Interior</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"An interesting, well-written and instructive volume."-- <HI REND="italics">Independent, N.Y</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Every literary man and woman should read it."-- <HI REND="italics">Sunday Times, N.Y</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"A valuable companion for writers, talkers and people generally."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Journal</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Although written for popular reading, they are scholarly and instructive, and in a very high degree entertaining.  No one can turn to a single page of the book without finding something worth reading and worth remembering.  It is a book both for libraries and general reading, as scholars will not disdain its many valuable illustrations, while the rising writer will find in it a perfect wealth of rules and suggestions to help him form a good style of expression."-- <HI REND="italics">Publishers' Weekly, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"To this large class, (the great body of our people in every rank, occupation and profession) it will prove a most entertaining recreation and useful study.  Young men in higher schools, academies and colleges will also find it a useful and helpful guide, which will not only save them from committing vulgar solecisms and awkward verbal improprieties, but from contracting vicious habits that will stick to them, if once suffered to be formed, like the shirt of Nessus."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Intelligencer, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"The final chapter on `Common Improprieties of Speech' should be printed in tract form....We should like to put a copy of this book into the hands of <HI REND="italics">every man and woman</HI>
100.sgm: who is using or intends to use, our good old Anglo-Saxon with voice or pen for any public service.  It is a text book, full of information, and contains hints, rules, criticisms and illustrations, which authenticate their own value."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian at Work, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>TWO YEARS IN CALIFORNIA, By Mary Cone.  With 15 fine engravings, a map of California, and a plan of the Yosemite Valley.  Cloth<HSEP>$1.75</P>
100.sgm:<P>"One of the most reliable and authentic works on California yet issued."-- <HI REND="italics">Sunday Times, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"One of the best descriptions of the Golden State that has met our eye,..unbiassed, impartial, and intelligent."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian at Work, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"This is a book of absorbing interest...No description can do justice to it.  Every page deserves to be read and studied."-- <HI REND="italics">Albany Journal</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"It would be difficult to compress within the same limits more really valuable information on the subject treated than is here given."-- <HI REND="italics">Morning Star, Boston</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Will be of much value to every one who contemplates either visiting or emigarting to California."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Evening Mail</HI>
100.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>ROBERT'S RULES OF ORDER, For Deliberative Assemblies.--By Major H. M. Robert, Corps of Engineers, U.S.A. Pocket size, cloth, 75 cents.</P>
100.sgm:<P>This book is far superior to any other parliamentary manual in the English language.  It gives in the simplest form possible all the various rules or points of law or order that can arise in the deliberations of any lodge, grange, debating club, literary society, convention, or other organized body, and every rule is complete in itself, and as easily found as a word in a dictionary.  Its crowning excellence is a "Table of Rules relating to Motions," on two opposite pages which contains the answers to more than two hundred questions on parliamentary law, which will be of the greatest value to every member of an assembly.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"It should be studied by all who wish to become familiar with the correct usages of public meetings."-- <HI REND="italics">E. O. Haven, D.D., Chancellor of Syracuse University</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"It seems much better adapted to the use of societies and assemblies than either Jefferson's Manual or Cushing's."-- <HI REND="italics">F. M. Gregory, LL.D., late President of the Illinois Industrial University</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"I shall be very glad to see your Manual brought into general use, as I am sure it must be, when its great merit and utility become generally known.-- <HI REND="italics">Hon. T M. Cooley, LL.D., author of `Cooley's Blackstone</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"After carefully examining it and comparing it with several other books having the same object in view, I am free to say that it is, by far, the best of all.  The `Table of Rules' is worth the cost of the work."-- <HI REND="italics">Thomas Bowman D.D., Bishop of Baltimore M.E. Conference</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"This capital little manual will be found exceedingly useful by all who are concerned in the organization or management of societies of various kinds....If we mistake not, the book will displace all its predecessors, as an authority on parliamentary usages."-- <HI REND="italics">New York World</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"I admire the plan of your work, and the simplicity and fidelity with which you have executed it.  It is one of the best compendiums of Parliamentary Law that I have seen, and exceedingly valuable, not only for the matter usually embraced in such a book, but for its tables and incidental matter, which serve greatly to adapt it to common use."-- <HI REND="italics">Dr. D. C. Eddy, Speaker of the Massachusetts House of Representatives</HI>
100.sgm:<P>MISHAPS OF MR. EZEKIEL PELTER.--Illustrated.</P>
100.sgm:<P>12mo, cloth<HSEP>$1.50</P>
100.sgm:<P>"So ludicrous are the vicissitudes of the much-abused Ezekiel, and so much of human nature and every-day life intermingle, that it will be read with a hearty zest for its <HI REND="italics">morals</HI>
100.sgm:, while the humor is irresistible.  If you want to laugh at something new, a regular side-splitter, get this book."-- <HI REND="italics">The Evangelist, St. Louis</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"We have read Ezekiel.  We have laughed and cried over its pages.  It grows in interest to the last sentence.  The story is well told, and the moral so good, that we decidedly like and commend it."-- <HI REND="italics">Pacific Baptist, San Francisco</HI>
100.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>PRE-HISTORIC RACES OF THE UNITED STATES.  By J. W. FOSTER, LL.D., Author of "The Physical Geography of the Mississippi Valley," etc.  415 pages, crown 8vo, with a large number of illustrations.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Price, cloth<HSEP>$3 00</P>
100.sgm:<P>Half calf binding, gilt top<HSEP>5 00</P>
100.sgm:<P>Full calf, gilt edges<HSEP>6 50</P>
100.sgm:<P>"One of the best and clearest accounts we have seen of those grand monuments of a forgotten race."-- <HI REND="italics">London Saturday Review</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"The reader will find it more fascinating than his last favorite novel."-- <HI REND="italics">Eclectic Magazine, N.Y</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"The book is literally crowded with astonishing and valuable facts."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Post</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"It is an elegant volume and a valuable contribution to the subject.  Contains just the kind of information in clear, compressed and intelligible form, which is adapted to the mass of readers."-- <HI REND="italics">Appleton's Popular Science Monthly</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"The book is typographically perfect, and with its admirable illustrations and convenient index is really elegant and a sort of luxury to posses and read.  Dr. Foster's style reminds us of Tyndall and Proctor, at their best.  He goes over the ground, inch by inch, and accumulates information of surprising interest and importance, bearing on this subject, which he gives in his crowded but most instructive and entertaining chapters in a thoroughly scientific but equally popular way.  We have marked whole pages of his book for quotation, and finally from sheer necessity have been compelled to put the whole volume in quotation marks, as one of the few books that are indispensable to the student, and scarcely less important for the intelligent reader to have at hand for reference."-- <HI REND="italics">Golden Age, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>A MANUAL OF GESTURE.--With over 100 Figures, embracing a complete system of Notation, with the Principles of Interpretation and Selections for Practice.  By Prof. A. M. BACON.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"Price<HSEP>$1 75</P>
100.sgm:<P>"Prof. Bacon has given us a work that, in thoroughness and practical value, deserves to rank among the most remarkable books of the season.  There has in fact, been no work on the subject yet offered to the public which approaches it for exhaustiveness and completeness of detail.  It is of the utmost value, not merely to students, but to lawyers, clergymen, teachers, and public speakers, and its importance as an assistant in the formation of a correct and appropriate style of action can hardly be over-estimated."-- <HI REND="italics">The Philadelphia Inquirer</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Prof. Bacon's Manual seems expressly arranged for the help of those who study alone and have undertaken self-instruction in the art of persuasive delivery.  The work in the hands of our ministry, well studied, would have the effect of emphasizing the living words of the Gospel all over the land, and making them two-edged with meaning."-- <HI REND="italics">The Chicago Pulpit</HI>
100.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>ANDERSON'S NORSE MYTHOLOGY; or The Religion of Our Forefathers.--Containing all the Myths of the Eddas carefully systematized and interpreted, with an Introduction, Vocabulary and Index.--By R. B. ANDERSON, A.M., Professor of Scandinavian Languages, in the University of Wisconsin.  Crown 8vo, cloth, $2 50; full gilt, $3 00; half calf, $5 00.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"Professor Anderson has produced a monograph which may be regarded as exhaustive in all its relations."-- <HI REND="italics">The New York Tribune</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"A masterly work...No American book of recent years does equal credit to American scholarship, or is deserving of a more pronounced success."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Globe</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"I have been struck with the warm glow of enthusiasm pervading it, and with the attractiveness of its descriptions and discussions.  I sincerely wish it a wide circulation and careful study."-- <HI REND="italics">William Dwight Whitney</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"I like it decidedly.  A mythologist must be not only a scholar but a bit of a poet, otherwise he will never understand that petrified poetry out of which the mythology of every nation is built up.  You seem to me to have that gift of poetic divination, and, therefore, whenever I approach the dark runes of the Edda, I shall gladly avail myself of your help and guidance."</P>
100.sgm:<P>Yours truly,<HSEP><HI REND="italics">F. Max Muller</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"We have never seen so complete a view of the religion of the Norsemen.  The Myths which Prof. Anderson has translated for us are characterized by a wild poetry and by suggestions of strong thought.  We see images of singular beauty in the landscape of ice and snow.  Sparks of fire are often struck out from these verses of flint and steel."-- <HI REND="italics">Bibliotheca Sacra</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Professor Anderson is an enthusiastic as well as an able scholar; and he imparts his enthusiasm to his readers.  His volume is deeply interesting as well as in a high degree instructive.  No such account of the old Scandinavian Mythology has hitherto been given in the English language.  It is full, and elucidates the subject in all points of view.  It contains abundant illustrations in literal and poetic translations from the Eddas and Sagas...Professor Anderson's interpretations of the myths throw new light upon them, and are valuable additions (as is the whole work) to the history of religion and of literature...It deserves to be welcomed, not only as most creditable to American scholarship, but also as an indication of the literary enterprise which is surely growing up in our North-western States."-- <HI REND="italics">The Presbyterian Quarterly and Princeton Review</HI>
100.sgm:<P>AMERICA NOT DISCOVERED BY COLUMBUS.--A Historical Sketch of the Discovery of America by the Norsemen in the 10th century.  By PROF. R. B. ANDERSON, of the University of Wisconsin, with an Appendix on the Historical, Literary and Scientific value of the Scandinavian Languages.</P>
100.sgm:<P>Price, 12mo, cloth<HSEP>$1 00</P>
100.sgm:<P>"A valuable addition to American history.  The object is fully described in its title page, and the author's narrative is very remarkable.  The book is full of surprising statements, and will be read with something like wonderment."-- <HI REND="italics">Notes and Queries, London</HI>
100.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
100.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
100.sgm:<P>VIKING TALES OF THE NORTH.--The Sagas of Thorstein, Viking's Son, and Fridthjof the Bold.  Translated from the Icelandic by Prof. R. B. ANDERSON, Author of "Norse Mythology," and JON BJARNASON.  Also, Stephens's translation of Tegne&acute;r's "FRIDTHJOF'S SAGA."  Complete in one volume, 12mo, Cloth, $2.00.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"A charming book it is.  Your work is in every-way cleverly done.  The quaintly, delightful sagas ought to charm many thousands of readers, and your translation is of the best."-- <HI REND="italics">Willard Fiske, M.A., Ph.D., Prof. of the North European Languages, Cornell University</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"This work, as a whole, will please and instruct all classes of readers, and especially those who wish to search out the antiquities of Scandinavian literature.  But every one will be struck with the majesty and force of that old poetry of the north."-- <HI REND="italics">The Churchman, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"The literal translations of Anderson and Bjarnason are full of interest of a rare kind.  Whoever fails to read them, will lose a rare fund of that peculiar wealth of thought and feeling which is suggested by the earlier, simpler life of mankind."-- <HI REND="italics">The Christian Union, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Prof. Anderson's book is a very valuable and important one.  The `Saga of Thorstein, Viking's Son,' teems with magnificently dramatic situations, the impressiveness of which are rather increased by the calm directness and dignity with which they are related.  And these features are as characteristic of the English version as of the Icelandic originals.  The translator shows an intimate acquaintance with all the intricacies of that cruelly inflected language, and an enthusiastic appreciation of its epigrammatic pith and vigor.  Tegner's celebrated poem `Fridthjof's Saga,' is sufficiently novel in its theme and abounding in melody and rhythm to yield a large measure of enjoyment."-- <HI REND="italics">The Nation, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>FRIDTHJOF'S SAGA.--A Norse Romance.  By ESAIAS TEGNE&acute;R Translated from the Swedish by THOS. A. E. HOLCOMB and MARTHA A. LYON HOLCOMB.  One volume, 12mo, Cloth, $1.50.</P>
100.sgm:<P>"Its beauties are innumerable.  The grand old Viking spirit glows in every line."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Leader, N.Y</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"`Fridthjof's Saga' so beautifully embalmed in English verse, must become <HI REND="italics">a household treasure</HI>
100.sgm: among lovers of elegant and curious literature."-- <HI REND="italics">St. Louis Times</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"No one can peruse this noble poem without arising therefrom with a loftier idea of human bravery and a better conception of human love."-- <HI REND="italics">Inter-Ocean, Chicago</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Wherever one opens the poem he is sure to light upon <HI REND="italics">passages of exquisite beauty</HI>
100.sgm:.  Longfellow styles it the noblest poetic contribution which Sweden has yet made to the literary history of the world."-- <HI REND="italics">Church Journal, New York</HI>
100.sgm:<P>"Fridthjof's Saga' is an interesting story, told with great skill, tenderness and picturesque language, while the characters are discriminated with a talent worthy of the most observant student of human nature.  Sweden in the person of Bishop Tegne&acute;r, offers the true poet, who, in describing the struggles of souls, has produced an immortal poem.  The <HI REND="italics">Holcomb translation</HI>
100.sgm: is so well done that it would be difficult to better it in any single respect."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Gazette</HI>
104.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-104</TITLE>
104.sgm:<TITLE>Happy days in southern California, by Frederick Hastings Rindge: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
104.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
104.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
104.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
104.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
104.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
104.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
104.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>00-1881</LCCN>
104.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
104.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
104.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
104.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
104.sgm:<P>HAPPY DAYS</P>
104.sgm:<P>IN</P>
104.sgm:<P>Southern California</P>
104.sgm:<P>BY</P>
104.sgm:<P>FREDERICK HASTINGS RINDGE</P>
104.sgm:<P>CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS</P>
104.sgm:<P>AND</P>
104.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA</P>
104.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
104.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
104.sgm:<P>Copyright, 1898</P>
104.sgm:<P>By FREDERICK H. RINDGE</P>
104.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">All rights reserved</HI>
104.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
104.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
104.sgm:<HEAD>Dedication</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>TO MY FAMILY</P>
104.sgm:<P>WHO WITH ME WILL NEVER FORGET OUR</P>
104.sgm:<P>HAPPY DAYS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</P>
104.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
104.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
104.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
104.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
104.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>INTRODUCTION: Two Conversations<HSEP>1<LB>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>6<LB>OUR FIRST PREDECESSORS<HSEP>12<LB>SPANISH DAYS<HSEP>20<LB>THE MEXICAN ERA<HSEP>24<LB>THE COMING OF THE WHITE MEN<HSEP>28<LB>BY THE SIDE OF THE SUNSET SEA:<LB>On the Beach<HSEP>34<LB>The Ocean of Peace<HSEP>40<LB>Concerning the Seashore<HSEP>43<LB>Under the Sea<HSEP>46<LB>Sea Lions, Seals, Sea Otters, Whales, and Sea Serpents<HSEP>55<LB>Fragments<HSEP>58<LB>Birds of the Beach<HSEP>59<LB>RANCH LIFE<HSEP>64<LB>The Sycamore Grove<HSEP>73<LB>Ranch Thoughts and Modern Memories<HSEP>81<LB>A Farmer's Fancies<HSEP>85<LB>The Rodeo<HSEP>94<LB>IN OUR CAN&tilde;ONS<HSEP>99<LB>A MORNING DRIVE<HSEP>108<LB>DESOLATION AND CHARITY:<LB>The Dry Year<HSEP>116<LB>The Mountain Fire<HSEP>121<LB>The Associated Charity<HSEP>124<LB>IN THE SADDLE:<LB>A Ride in the Hills<HSEP>127<LB>The Old Mountaineer<HSEP>133<LB>Coming Home<HSEP>139<LB>TWENTY-FOUR SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA HOURS<HSEP>141<LB>THE MOUNTAIN CLIMB<HSEP>153</P>
104.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
104.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
104.sgm:<P>CONCERNING OUR SEASONS<HSEP>161<LB>THE STORY HOUR:<LB>Around the Hearth<HSEP>171<LB>The Story Hour<HSEP>172<LB>THE STORM<HSEP>187<LB>THE MENTAL CITY<HSEP>190<LB>ON POINT DUMA<HSEP>193<LB>THE LAST WORD<HSEP>200</P>
104.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
104.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>TWO CONVERSATIONS</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Do you like Southern California?" said a Bostonian to a Santa Monican, as they were sitting together in the quietness of a pleasant little room with all the prim cosiness of a real old-fashioned New England interior, having its own peculiar individuality.  The room was not cosmopolitan; it was not a museum.  It was a restful room, with good cheer combined.  The walls were not so covered that the eye and mind in vain sought a resting-place where one could look without being obliged to think.  Too many pictures in a room deny its occupant mental rest.  Whichever way he looks he sees something which sets his mind at work upon a mass of thoughts the pictures suggest.  Sometimes a journey round the world is required; sometimes an historical excursion wherein the memory tries to assert its ability to recall facts and dates.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>No, it was not a common abode of a man of the traveled class, without individuality, but a room in which one felt at ease, assured that its owner was well brought up,--a man whose body, soul, and mind had each grown without invading the territory of the others, and therefore not at their expense.  The room did not say, "See what my master can afford; see what a surfeit of wealth I hold."  Nay, it said, "My master is reflected in me; here is serenity and refinement,--not an embarrassment of riches."</P>
104.sgm:<P>The room was not like some banker's good-wife who is lost behind the glamour of her jewels, but was like that good-wife who herself adorns her apparel, whose adornment is forgotten in herself.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Do you like Southern California?"</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Well," said the Californian, "I do love the Sunset-land.  There is much to enjoy.  Nature is at its best; in that new wonderland is a glorious serenity, and yet human energy is not lost as in most semi-tropical countries.  It is a blending of the temperate zone with the tropic.  A wonderful ocean current coming across the sea from Japan is a benediction to that coast country.  Ah! Southern California is peculiar to itself!"</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Come, my good friend, tell me all about it."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"All?  You ask much.  I am to remain in Boston only a week.  I could not tell you all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"What will you write me a dozen letters for, after you get home?  You could tell me much in them."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"For how much?  Let me think.  You are an artist: paint me a figure of Christ as you think he might have looked when he said, `Come unto me all ye that labor and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest.'  Or, instead, draw me an ideal countenance of a man whose life is close to Christ, from whose face shines the Christ-life within.  Or, if you will, instead of either, paint me a picture of a scene typical of the thousand years of peace,--Isaiah's prophecy, Tennyson's song.  Paint in a divine landscape with mountain background; a grove and greensward with a silver river running to the sea.  Under the trees of the foreground make a group of noble-countenanced people in classic Grecian garments, all listening to a man singing to the music of a Davidic harp, his face upturned and glorified by breathing in the Spirit of God.  At one side of the group have a perfect man of the millennial type, helping, in courteous way, an aged friend to a place of vantage that he may well hear the singing.  In a corner represent a child feeding hawks and doves together, with the same wheat; and paint a lamb resting and sleeping on the recumbent form of a lion.  Search the Scriptures for other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"Ah," said the New Englander, "you are a Shylock to demand such a price: you could write your letters before I had my painting half finished.  My palette-knife would be kept busy scraping out my attempts at the almost unattainable, while your pen would be hastening away to complete its task of possibilities."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Very well," replied the Pacifican, "I will write a book, the writing of which will require as many hours as your picture,--you to execute your part first, notifying me of the time taken, and I will employ equal time in my portion of the contract."</P>
104.sgm:<P>The days went by.  In course of time the Bostonian wrote, declaring the weeks required of me by our agreement.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But before I received word from him, I was reclining one starlight night by a campfire under a spreading live-oak in a California seaside can&tilde;on.  My companion was a youth in whom I had great interest.  The moon was in its first quarter, and had said good-night as it disappeared behind the hills.  The sea sounds reached our ears, and the music of the brook, close by, delighted us during the hush of the waves, "like linnets in the pauses of the wind."</P>
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104.sgm:<P>It was a time when two natures naturally blending become full of confidence and self-revelations.  The youth had in him that sure key to knowledge,--asking questions without affront and drawing from men their experiences and memories.</P>
104.sgm:<P>He asked me about the past of the land we lived in, of the wonders of its possessions, concerning the secrets of nature, hidden in the mountains and valleys; and many another province of knowledge did he invade by his well-wrought interrogations.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Some of his questions led me soon to seek the Los Angeles Public Library and turn over many a leaf, until I had learned what I wished I had better known that summer night by the brookside.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Thus, my good reader, did these two conversations cause me to write the chapters that follow.  By answering the inquiries of the Bostonian and of the youth at one and the same time, I thought I could kill two birds with one stone; although I trust I shall not kill two men with one book.</P>
104.sgm:<P>There may be those who would not decline an evening or two by the home hearth in company with me.  So many love Southern California that there may be others beside the artist, the youth, and myself, who will be interested in these little stories which now begin.</P>
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104.sgm:<HEAD>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>THE entrances to California are enchanting, whether you approach it through the peerless Golden Gate, the doorway of one of the world's greatest harbors, or by the majestic Shasta region, its sublimity emphasized by the loveliness of the trickling streams falling over the mossy banks thereabout.  Or if you enter the golden land through the attractive green valleys of Southern California, you find them rich in orange orchards and blessed with a mild, gentle air,--the vale of San Gabriel standing forth pree&die;minent among others, themselves as fair as Cashmere, with a charm all the greater because of contrast with the arid deserts which precede them.  Or, again, if you approach California over the scenic wonderlands along the Pacific railways that surmount the Rocky and Sierra Nevada ranges, there are the never-to-be-forgotten glimpses of Donner Lake through the apertures of the snow-sheds, and there abides the magnificence of the glorious view from "Cape Horn;" there you pass through the pristine pineries that cover the mountains as completely as growing grain covers a field, making one fancy that ages ago the Creator, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:seated upon a floating cloud, sowed the seeds of the pines just as a sower sows the grain.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Beautiful are thy gates, O California!</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Southern California is a country of which it is said that if a man lives there for five years he will never leave it to stay.  So, you see, it must be a goodly land.  But what are the reasons, the conditions, that make it so beloved, that compel such loyalty to it?  They are these,--climate, beauty, and variety.  Its climate is almost perfect, its natural attractiveness certain, and the variety of its topography remarkable.  What think you of taking a sleigh ride on Mount Lowe in the morning, descending on a marvelous inclined railway to Pasadena, where you stop long enough to gather your pockets full of oranges off the trees, and then electrically speeding away to Santa Monica for a swim in the Ocean of Peace,--and all in the same day?  Yes, it <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Southern California's history is a story, its individuality is a poem, while life within its borders is a delight.  Unlike Italy, southern France, Florida, and Hawaii, it has a climate which surprises the stranger who abides all the year round, inasmuch as the summer and winter, the spring and autumn, here offer more inducements to a healthful, happy, out-of-door <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:life than in any other locality.  A small part of Chile, to be sure, has a like faultless clime, but no United States of America laws and customs add to its inherent attractions.  Italy is on an inland sea, while this south-land breathes in vitality from an ocean.  Hawaii inhales the air of the same sea, but that country is too near the equator for energy, and Anglo-Saxons there have to go up to San Francisco every few years, "to get their blood thickened," as they say in Honolulu.  Florida, with all its loveliness, has not the priceless combination of lofty mountains and a boundless sea in close companionship.  The people here breathe ozone and rarefied mountain air.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Blow, ye winds, and bring to me<LB>A breeze of hope from yonder sea.<LB>Change, ye zephyrs, that I may know<LB>The mountain air from heights of snow.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>And the winds do change, as the days go by, first giving you a thought of the Pacific and then a memory of mountains.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Many think of Southern California as a winter-land only.  How can I correct that mistake?  I know.  Some friends of ours went to Europe in May: they returned to America in the summer-time, intending to pass some weeks on the Atlantic seaboard.  But they suffered exceedingly from the hot days and more trying nights, until finally they exclaimed, "Let us go back to Southern California and get <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The climate here is especially restful and strengthening to the nervous system, but it does not enervate as do most nerve-resting climates.  Another feature of it is its remarkable power of adding weight to the body.  A certain Massachusetts man, who clung to the platform of a Pullman, shivering in his leanness and his six-feet ulster, while crossing the Continental Divide, now dwells in San Francisco, weighing so much that I should not care to meet him in combat.  Aye, the climate promotes longevity.  To a great age lived many of the native race.  Victorianno, a native chief, lived to be one hundred and thirty-six.  And, since the head that wears the crown is supposed to be troubled with insomnia, is it not natural to believe his subjects lived to be two hundred, at least?</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is a pleasant thought to recall the well known resemblance of this land to Palestine.  Its climate, its topography, the course and the times of its seasons, and its productions are all so like the natural conditions of that holy land that the Bible read here becomes much more vivid.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Hesperian days long linger here,--not alone the shortest days of the year, but nearly all the time.  Here, as in honored Palestine, God <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>A perfect day is no rarer in March than in June.  These golden days, in which the temperature of the air seems exactly to blend with the conditions of the body, are not hard to find, and I am glad he who wrote "what so rare as a day in June?" lived not here, for then would the world have missed that sweet song.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Southern California, like Korea, might be called the Land of the Morning Calm, because our mornings are so serene and pleasant, before the trade-winds begin to blow,--from noon till sundown.</P>
104.sgm:<P>When the "Morning Times" declares the destitution and suffering in snow-bound cities, then are we grateful that our lines have been cast in pleasant places, in this the land of green Christmas-tide, in this Southern California, the winter fireside of our country.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The happiest thought of all thoughts in connection with this beautiful land is that only in Heaven is it more beautiful, and that we can live there, too, if we are faithful.</P>
104.sgm:<P>So dear has Southern California become to thousands of transplanted citizens that they feel like exclaiming, in the words of the legend attached to the old California Republic silk <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:flag preserved in the museum of the Pioneers' Society of San Francisco,-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"California is ours as long as the stars remain."</HI>
104.sgm:<P>What need I say more to substantiate her claim to be called the Golden State?  Do not the golden orange, and the golden nugget, and the golden native poppy, God-given, prove the justice of her assertion?</P>
104.sgm:<P>In the chapters that ensue permit me to pass by in silence those great resorts that have delighted the traveler.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Instead, it is my hope to tell of those things that are sometimes forgotten; and especially do I hope so to write that if some of you knew not the title of this book and saw no proper names therein, you would at once say, "He is surely writing about Southern California."</P>
104.sgm:<P>So, come, my mind! pray serve me once again; and thou! my good right hand, obey the brain, thy master, and breathe into this book the serenity of Southern California: color these chapters with a semi-tropical tinge, a veritable verbal-colored photograph, if thou wilt; and make my words bear a balmy breeze from the Ocean of Peace to those who may wish to know thee or renew memories of thy clime of climes, O Southern California!</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>OUR FIRST PREDECESSORS</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>LET us go to some can&tilde;on which leads from the mountains to the sea, and whose mouth is a broad open valley facing the beach; such as is the old Santa Monica, or the Malibu, or fair Zuma.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is a bright spring morning.  Everything is growing.  The fragrance of the musky alfilaria perfumes the air.  Canoes are returning from their early fishing; a group of aborigines are engaged in digging clams at the lower-low tide.  When the tide returns and stops this occupation, they will begin to open the tightly closed shells by a clever trick.  They will put them on a bed of coals, the clam opens his shell when he feels the heat, and the watching Indian, ready with a sharp stick, quickly pries it open.  On the beach a company of happy-hearted children are awaiting the canoes, running and playing on the sands: the older boys, with guatamote and sagebrush bows and arrows, showing their skill in shooting at peep and plover, while the older girls sit braiding baskets.  Up the beach a man is gathering asphaltum, washed ashore by the tide from the depths of the sea, with which to cover the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Up on the mesa above we see the village site; the fires in front of the little huts are still smoking; the mothers are tending their children, drying venison, and with pestles are preparing food seeds and acorns in the mortars.  Others make tortillas on a permanent metate on the top of a ledge.  These, with cooked seal flippers and porpoise meat, make up their ordinary food.  Some of the mortars are chiseled out of bed rock or great above-ground ledges, while others are finely wrought vessels.</P>
104.sgm:<P>On the trail which comes down from the heights towards Calabasas we see a party of hunters homeward-bound with the deer slain in the daybreak hunt.  Some of the young men on the trail bring back a fine number of sweet-tasting quail, caught in the cunning basket and brush-chute traps.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Here is their little primitive world.  Here their love-matches are made; here Pacific Hiawathas honor their tribe; here in fear of war and in love of life they spend their years.  From this mesa, or level hilltop, they carry down their dead to the little cemetery by the lake.</P>
104.sgm:<P>On the point of the mesa do you see that white-locked warrior peering out to sea, with his hand held to shield his eyes, to discern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Earlier in the morning, at sunrise, we could have seen some of the devout on an eminence near by, worshiping, in attitudes of adoration and supplication, the Great Spirit.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But all is astir when the trading canoes come into the little bay and are beached on the willing sand.  An unfinished courtship is now to be renewed, and a troth pledged.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The southern maiden quietly sits aside, skillfully cutting out abalone ornaments and piercing the pieces with little drills; out of them she will make necklaces of shell, and decorative beads.  She waits: she will soon know if her beloved from the north will seek her out from among the many, and, passing by the more forward maids, honor her.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Yes, he has not forgotten: she has been his, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>We leave them to their happiness.  Others of the tribe are leaving the village with willow striking-fans and baskets to gather the food seeds from the hills, in the chaparral.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Do you notice? they strike the ripe seed pods and the seeds fall into the baskets held underneath.  Still others go forth to pick up the ripe acorns, to replenish their granary, while yon woman is going down the trail to the little brook in the can&tilde;on to fill her water-bottles.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In the village some of the older men are mixing and preparing medicine.  The elderberry root steeped is their powerful purgative, the berries of the bearberry-tree are their emetic, while the wormwood and sage serve as their febrifuge.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The most skillful of the women are busy making fine arrow and spear points out of chalcedony, smoky topaz, serpentine, chert, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>So they pass their lives till Cabrillo's white-winged ships approach.  Rumors of Cortes have come from the south, borne from tribe to tribe, from Mexico to Malibu.  The ancient telegraph here was the voice of man.  Cortes' horses had been described and probably exaggerated.  The ships of the Spaniards had been described, and their weapons of war, holding thunder and death-dealing, had prepared our first predecessors for the sight of Cabrillo's ships, now sailing into Santa Monica Bay.</P>
104.sgm:<P>A sudden secret knell sounded in their hearts.  One glance at the ships struck awe in their souls.  They read their doom in the ship, the horse, and the gunpowder.  Man always stands in awe of what he himself cannot make or do.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>Montezuma's name had been known from Mexico to Point Duma and beyond.  If he, the Great Aztec, could be conquered and Mexico left unprotected by their God of War, what help was there for the smaller Zuma tribe or the others along the coast?</P>
104.sgm:<P>Many a council held the men of battles.  Varied was the advice of the old men and leaders.  Some were for peace, some for aggressive war.  But all felt as if they were battling with something akin to the supernatural.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It was this supernatural idea which made the aborigines a readier prey to the Spaniards.  Curiosity, too, played its part: the Indian was as eager to see the thunder-guns as is an antelope to learn the cause of a waving handkerchief in the daytime on the plains, or a lantern near the lick at night.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Besides, Cabrillo came and went, not with destruction, but with kindness.  When he first came, a report of his coming was taken from tribe to tribe up the coast, and the headlands were covered by eager, awed watchers.  Let us leave them there.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But whence came they, these aborigines?  Of course the primal answer must be, that they are only a part of the human race once scattered at the time of the Tower of Babel.  To trace the migrations of these aboriginal people, and to discover what paths they took to enter our present domains, is a much more difficult <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>I doubt not the civilization of ancient Mexico and Central America was a complex one; formed, perhaps, by a blending of the life of the lost continent of Atlantis, together with Asiatic influences brought across the sea from China and India, and down the coast from Japan <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
104.sgm:<P>To return to our Indian village in long-ago Southern California.  I see and hear at night, about the smouldering fire, the Nestor of the tribe telling stories of the past.  He relates <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>This vision is no idle dream; for on the Oregon coast very ancient bronze cables and idols have been found in the beach sands.  Some of these are now in the Museum of the State Mineralogical Bureau at San Francisco.</P>
104.sgm:<P>I remember when we found a memorial of these our first predecessors--an ancient cave-dwelling, with its smoke-darkened ceiling and its heaps of de&acute;bris and shells round about, the remains of a thousand feasts.</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SPANISH DAYS</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>CABRILLO was the first Spaniard who sailed along the shores of Southern California.  It was in 1542.  From him, and successive explorers, the Spanish learned about our fertile valleys, the delightful climate, and the abundance of wild game and fish food; and how numerous were the dusky people that then inhabited our lands.</P>
104.sgm:<P>So that when, in 1767, a general expulsion of the Jesuits occurred from Spanish countries, the Jesuits resolved to enter our California as a mission field.  This they did, under the spiritual leadership of Padre Junipero Serra, whose own crucifix is still preserved in the sacristy of the old church at Monterey.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In 1769 they planted the first mission at San Diego, and in succeeding years their missions were established to the north as far as Sonoma, above San Francisco, which was built in 1823.  The stations were placed at average intervals of twelve leagues.  It was in 1821 that they obtained their greatest glory.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The Spanish priests came with bell and book, incense and incantation,--things well suited to the sensuous Indian nature.  Soon the awe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Soon after the priests, soldiers and artisans came.  Intermarriages resulted, and the two races began to blend.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Not all was peace.  Some tribes, Apache-like, refused to relinquish freedom for what they thought was slavery.  They observed that all the mission buildings were built by native labor, under the direction of the Spaniards.  So the guns and machetes from Spain had plenty of defensive work to do.  But in the course of time, as the children were taught European ways and the catechism of the Spaniard's faith, the country became more peaceful.  The people from the settlements would go out into the mountains and serve as peacemakers.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The names of places you meet with in California which ante-date the coming of the Anglo-Saxons were in many cases bestowed by Cabrillo and Serra.  As his ship sailed along the coast, Cabrillo would look at his almanac, when he sighted a promontory or other noteworthy natural feature, and give it the name of the saint on whose day the discovery was made.  Then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>In the Lompoc valley are the ruins of an old mission.  This structure was never completed because the occurrence of an earthquake, by which a portion of the building under construction fell to the ground, was unwisely deemed of ill portent to the enterprise.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Consecrated bells were held in the greatest esteem in those days.  If a ship sailed from Mexico to San Diego with one such on board, her safe arrival in port was assured; and expeditions inland always were thought to be well planned if a priest and a bell went with them.  On making a camp, the bell would be hung on a branch of some great tree.  I have been told that the tree under which mass was first said on the banks of Los Angeles River, and from which the holy bell hung, was still standing in 1892; but my informant, who recently sought to secure it for historical purposes, found it had been cut up by a Mexican for stove-wood!</P>
104.sgm:<P>Before closing this chapter let us consider Coronado a moment.  You come across his name often in Southern California.  Coronado was governor of a Mexican province.  In 1540 he was dispatched with an expedition to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Coronado's men even marched to the Grand Can&tilde;on of the Colorado.  Think of this when you look upon that triumph of God.</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE MEXICAN ERA</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>In 1821 Mexico gained her independence.  By this time the Spanish blood had become so intermingled with that of the native races that those who called themselves Spanish were no longer Spanish, but rather Europeanized Aztecs.  Since their blood was mostly Aztec, they could not now submit to Spain, after the awe had worn away.  Awe in man vanishes when he can do the same things as those whom he once reverenced because of his ignorance.  Besides, the Spaniards did not always practice what they preached.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Under valiant and noble leaders, Mexican independence became a fact, and Southern California shared in its benefits.  To the Mexicans here residing their Independence Day is as dear as our Fourth of July is to us.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The greatest change that came to Southern California through Mexican independence was the secularization of the missions.  As the Jesuits had been driven out of Spain in 1767, so now were they expelled from Mexico.  The Southern California mission churches were intrusted to the Franciscans and Dominicans.</P>
104.sgm:<P>This act of the secularization of the missions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The Mexican governors now held sway.  And the influence of the great landowners of Mexican grants was powerful.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is interesting for the stranger to know that nearly all Southern Californian land titles go back to Mexican grants which, on the purchase of California by the United States, were approved by the United States patents.  These grants consisted of thousands of acres of land each.  Sometimes they were given by the government to reward military service, or for religious foundations, or for pueblo purposes; and sometimes they were sold.  Each "grant" had a distinctive name, like Jesu-Maria, or San Antonio,--or Topango, or Malibu, or Sequit, named from aboriginal tribes.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The mission buildings, except the churches themselves, went to gradual decay.  The cattle of San Gabriel Mission in 1821 numbered 100,000.  But after the secularization of the missions, their various estates having been sold for two million dollars, the great herds were scattered or slaughtered and the vineyards went to waste, in many cases.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The large Mexican land grants of fifty thousand acres, more or less, were made to prominent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>In this Mexican epoch was the hide and tallow trade developed.  Dana's "Two Years Before the Mast" paints its picture.  Cattle were raised not for their meat chiefly, but for their hides and tallow.  In those days, if a traveler were hungry he could kill a steer, but he must hang the hide on a tree for the owner.  Nowadays some wicked Americans not only steal the meat, but bury the hide, so that the owner gets neither.  May their tribe decrease!</P>
104.sgm:<P>Unbounded hospitality and generosity prevailed among the Mexicans, especially at the large ranchos, where the landowners had under them great numbers of employees and dependents.  Travelers were furnished fresh horses gratuitously, and "to give to him that asketh" was a principle they put into practice.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Their life was the essence of the Spanish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>We wish we had time to talk together about their adobe homes and sunny porches, their horsemanship, their clumsy carts, their barbecues, their table supplies, and boiled mustard "for greens," their cruel bullfights when chile-pepper was put in the slit tongues of the already enraged beasts to increase their fury and add excitement to the undesirable zest of the gathering; about the bandit raids, about their rodeos, and concerning their religious rites, and their customs in honor of the patron saint of the crops and fields, San Ysidro, and also of their dry-year processions when rain was invoked from Heaven.  Perhaps we will talk over these things when we meet again.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But the Mexican epoch is ending.  The Mexican war has been raging, and can you not hear Don Pio Pico telling his friend how General Fre&acute;mont is marching down the coast on Southern California; how the Mexicans had expected he would pass through the Gaviota Can&tilde;on, where great boulders had been brought to roll down upon him and to crush his men; and how the rascally gringo got word of it and went around by a mountain pass?</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE COMING OF THE WHITE MEN</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>THE Mexican war, between the United States of America and Mexico, lasted from 1846 to 1848.  One of the results of that war was the purchase of California, by our country, from Mexico.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Before this time there had been some Anglo-Saxons in California.  A member of the Packard family is said to have settled here in 1780.  The first of our trading ships that entered San Francisco harbor was the Eagle, Captain William H. Davis, from Boston, who came via Hawaii and Alaska in 1816.  And from this time on until the Mexican War the love of adventure had brought quite a number of white men to these shores.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In 1846 Commodore Sloat raised our flag at Monterey, to bear witness that the United States had occupied California.  But it is said the first American flag ever raised in California flew to the breeze on Fremont's Peak, over-looking the town of Hollister.  The first flag made in California was made by a daughter of Don Juan Bandini, who afterward became Mrs. Carrillo.</P>
104.sgm:<P>From the time of the purchase of California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>It is related that General Tecumseh Sherman was, in his younger years, sent West with an engineer corps to make surveys of our newly bought California.  When he returned to Washington to make his report, he went to see President Taylor.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Mellville D. Landon states the conversation between them as follows:--</P>
104.sgm:<P>"`Glad to see you, Sherman: seen all the new land, have you?'</P>
104.sgm:<P>"`Yes, and surveyed it all.'</P>
104.sgm:<P>"`Well, how do you like our new possessions?'</P>
104.sgm:<P>"`Well--a--I--t-h-i-n-k,'--and then Sherman scratched his head in deep thought.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"`What!' exclaimed the President, `you don't say you don't like them?'</P>
104.sgm:<P>"`Well, I am afraid,--I'm afraid, Mr. President, we've got to have another war with Mexico.'</P>
104.sgm:<P>"`Another war?  Why, what for?'</P>
104.sgm:<P>"`To make them take the country back.'"</P>
104.sgm:<P>President Taylor and General Sherman would be astounded to-day if they could take a trip over the kite-shaped track on the Santa Fe&acute; in Southern California,--to say nothing of the kingdom above Tehachapi.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>In September, 1846, certain Californians under Flores and Varela revolted, and captured Los Angeles after a siege.  Gillespie, in command at Los Angeles, sent a dispatch to Stockton, at San Francisco, informing him of his danger.  This dispatch was carried on horseback by Juan Flaco, who made the distance of six hundred miles in five days.</P>
104.sgm:<P>While the ride of Paul Revere and that of Sheridan have been immortalized in verse by Longfellow and Read, Juan Flaco's ride, of equal heroism and greater endurance and danger, still awaits the poet.</P>
104.sgm:<P>I think I know a man who would give a prize to the poet who would do justice to Juan Flaco--John the Thin.  But no,--because if I should offer a prize it would result in an endless correspondence, and I should have to say to so many competitors that their efforts were <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Nevertheless, Juan Flaco's ride ought to be written.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But the coming of the white men really dates from the discovery of gold by Marshall, in 1848.  Then they came in swarms by land and by sea.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It was gold, not goodness, that led the white men to seek California,--although, as the Puritans for conscience' sake sailed to New England, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Around the Horn and over the prairies, amid many perils, came the gold-seekers; there were not many family names in the Eastern lands but furnished one argonaut.  They passed by little Los Angeles.  On to the gold-fields and into the mountains, was their cry!  What was Los Angeles then, and thereafter for a long, sleepy time?  Only a source of San Francisco's cattle and sheep supply.  And yet now Los Angeles and the southlands rightly claim the crown above the aspiration of the northlands.  So be it, until in the character of its citizens, as a whole, the north can surpass the south.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In those days of '49 prices were great, very great.  Even in the early success of Leadville, where the barber did not blush a bit to ask me seventy-five cents for a tonsorial triumph, prices did not approach the '49 days.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Marshall, who discovered gold in 1848, has left behind him his account book.  He states that in 1849 a hat was worth twelve dollars, a frying-pan six dollars, a paper of tacks three dollars, one onion for a sick man sixty dollars, and flour a dollar and a quarter a pound.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But by and by, the iron horse and the steamship took the place of the ox-team and the ships that sail.  The serpentine track came around a better "Cape Horn," and, turning southward, came trailing over the Tehachapi, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Strangers came by hundreds.  They verified the reports of the unrivaled clime, which had been sent to the snow countries in the East.  Their health improved.  They said, It is good to be here; it is a marvelous country.  They wrote home about it and thousands more came.  The people were so enthusiastic about the climate's virtue that they began to think each foot of land well-nigh priceless.  They were not far wrong.  Thus began the great land-boom, in which fortunes were made and lost with astonishing rapidity.  The decade of 1880-1890 was a wonder.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The trains kept bringing in their human freights, and as "merit is the secret of success" of course Southern California continues to grow in population as few lands have grown.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The climate has been the chief cause of Southern California's success, but let it not be forgotten that the general character of her people has had as much to do with her permanent welfare.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Had it not been for the coming of the white men, this southland would perhaps never have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>BY THE SIDE OF THE SUNSET SEA</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>ON THE BEACH</P>
104.sgm:<P>OUR seaside life is at its glory when the children from Los Angeles seek its summer shores at the times of the lower-low tides.  There are the marine treasures to be found.  Young life bounds and rebounds like a rubber ball, under the influence of the sea air.  Then are confidences spoken among the older visitors; then are new hopes kindled.  Then the ozone makes new men out of those that come from the city offices, those modern cliff-dwellers.  There is a fascination in walking, riding, or driving along the untrodden sands of a stretch of beach.  What may not one expect to find just around that curve in the shore, just beyond those rocks?  Some curiosity, or feathery sea-fern more beautiful than any in your basket, some pebble brighter than Redondo's brightest, were that possible.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Ah yes, there are great things to be found by the sea; there are great sights to see.  Do you remember when a part of the White Navy anchored off the bluff and engaged in target practice,--how the cannon boomed and the water splashed near the floating targets?  How <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:the smoke on the Monadnock was seen before the report was heard, and how we told the children that was because sound traveled more slowly than sight?  How proud we were of <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
104.sgm:<P>On the beach what exercise our eyes find,-- the silvery flash of the flying beach birds, the hastening crabs escaping to the sea, the red, white, and blue jellyfish left stranded by the tide, and the prettiest starfish ever seen.  In Southern California we have pink starfish, and a crab whose shell is shaped like an oak leaf.  In places, also, the poisoning stingaree abounds.  The points of the brittle starfish if broken off will grow out again, like the broken claws of an Atlantic lobster.  How convenient it would be if human arms would grow out again after a railroad accident, when the surgeon had to amputate them at the elbow!</P>
104.sgm:<P>Now the children have found some cowrie shells; not fine great ones like those from the South Sea Islands, but real little cowries, nevertheless.  They are not so handsome as the rare orange cowrie your sea-captain uncle brought from Tahiti, now reposing on the mantel; nor as beautiful as the tiger cowrie, on whose shell is often engraved the Lord's Prayer.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>On the beach at Soston Can&tilde;on we once found what we thought was a baby sea turtle.  We brought him home, but afterwards returned him to the sea with the request that he would grow and come back to us for green-turtle soup purposes.  He is still at large.</P>
104.sgm:<P>A Santa Monica fisherman recently found a sea turtle asleep on the waters of the bay and lifted him, unsuspecting, into the boat.  His weight was sixty-five pounds.  A green turtle killed in San Diego Bay weighed three hundred pounds; but he was supposed to have escaped from the steamer Newbern, wrecked on the voyage from San Francisco from Lower California.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Sometimes the can&tilde;on tortoises visit the beach, and sun in the sands.  They will also go into the sea a little way.  I remember a pretty group of laughing children surrounding a tortoise.  Down the inclined plane of the beach sand made by the tides would go the tortoise, followed by the laughter of the children, who would catch him as he was about to escape into the sea and bring him back for another toboggan scamper down the incline.  Our dog Protector, too, would out-laugh the children with his bark.  The boys must have the turtle to take home with them, of course.  So they made a little corral of a bottomless box, and put him in.  After two days he burrowed out underneath the box, and had a short walk to <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
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104.sgm:home-haunts, laughing in his sleeve, no doubt.  It was <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Is there anything in the world more awkward than a turtle trying to right himself, after you have put him on his back?</P>
104.sgm:<P>Happy memories of happy days! when the family go to the beach, and cover the children with the warm sand, to their great delight; presently, they shake themselves out of it and roll over and over down the sand-dune slants.  Meanwhile their elders absorb the strengthening balm of the beach.  There gently rises one of those quiet, lapping tides, when the sea looks like a floor and the little waves idly whip the shore; just right for the boys to skip stones upon.  Our Saint Bernard lies on the sand and lets the gentle waves of the incoming tide wash over him.  See the sea shimmering in the summer sun!</P>
104.sgm:<P>There is much virtue in beach sand.  It has excellent strength-giving power for the weak.  In France the aged poor resort to the warm summer sands as to a well reputed physician, since they cannot afford both; they find their strength and vitality and longevity increased thereby.</P>
104.sgm:<P>One of the children runs up to us with a starfish he has found, and, in a meditative mood, inquires if shooting stars falling into the ocean make starfishes.  Again he inquires, "Do they make jelly out of jellyfishes?"</P>
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104.sgm:<P>Have you ever watched the sand-hoppers boring into the beach?  Did you ever examine their kicking apparatus?  It is a marvel.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Yes, the seashore must have been made for children to enjoy.  Amid the rocks what delights there are!  The great flat rock up the coast, extending into the sea, is a natural aquarium, abounding with miniature lakes and pools of crystal water, left by the receding tide, an August paradise for children.  Here the sea anenomes and sea urchins dwell in their pristine state.  Mussels and barnacles are on the rocks.  Here lives the blue barnacle with its jointed armadillo-like back.  There are many more ideal places further up towards Point Duma, where the water is shallow and sea-life abounds.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The thoughts of the sea that come back to me are connected with the treacherous quicksands, the occasional mirage, the phantom ships, so made by the hazy horizon, half clear half foggy; the great Panama steamers plying proudly by, away out at sea, which we see sometimes indistinctly, when we try to count all the ships in sight; just as when in the early evening we count the few stars, and gradually discern some at first unseen.  Did you count that British ship lying off Port Los Angeles, just in from Antwerp, one hundred and thirty days?  My mind goes back to the quaint natural rocks up the coast on the beach: the standing bear, the huge sea turtle, and the pair of mighty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>In the distance the islands--Santa Catalina (Saint Catherine's Isle), Santa Barbara, and Santa Cruz--hold up their haughty heads, proud of their victories over the storms.</P>
104.sgm:<P>On San Miguel Island, off Santa Barbara City, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, the first explorer of the California coast, was buried.  In aboriginal days, these islands were more populous than the mainland.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But Catalina is the isle that appeals to the people.  Her rock-bound coasts are jeweled with abalones: she is the queen of the sea's domain.  Wonderful is she for her submarine gardens in the still waters.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The abalone shells are sent to New York to be made into buttons, and are brought back to California for sale.  They should be made here and give wages to our own.  But that is more honorable than shipping cottonseed oil from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>THE OCEAN OF PEACE</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is said that if the whole of the earth's surface above water were thrown into the Pacific Ocean it would fill only one seventh of it.  The average depth of this ocean is about four thousand two hundred yards.  So you see you live by the side of a mighty sea.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Yon boundless ocean is the best symbol of eternity.  As the blue sea receives its color from the sky above it, so can we receive the attributes of Heaven if we live under obedience to God. The deep blue sea reflects the deeper blue of the heavens: so man's goodness reflects the greater goodness of God.</P>
104.sgm:<P>By the sea the moonlight and the twilight reveal themselves with rare loveliness.  The golden glimmer of the sunrise sea is of great beauty, while the sunsets supply a public picture gallery at the close of countless days in the year.  Many natural attractions surround the Southern California coast.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Accept them like the sunsets<LB>Which are given unto men<LB>To prove the sure existence<LB>Of a Power Sovereign.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Standing on the beach, look out upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Now the incoming tide throws its long tongues of foaming water up on the beach, lapping the sands.  What a variety there is by the ocean; no wonder one of the best beloved songs is, "Oh, give me a home by the sea."  Along our wave-washed coast, where the crannied many-colored sandstone cliffs wall the shore, the thunder of the boisterous surf echoes and ree&die;choes on the mountain sides until it seems like the roar of another ocean.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The ocean, it is said, will yield more food to the acre of good fishing-ground than an acre of the best tillage land.</P>
104.sgm:<P>How grateful to him who has been long absent is the familiar smell of the sea!  It seems to supply a new life.</P>
104.sgm:<P>How many and varied are the moods of the sea!  It has a mood to fit every mood of man.  When the little waves in graceful, white-fringed curves roll gently up on the sands, one would never think the ocean capable of cruelty or anger.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The quiet waters of the Bay<LB>Have ever seemed to me to say,<LB>In quietness is strength.</HI>
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104.sgm:<P>The breeze rises, and the white caps, nodding their heads on the wind-driven sea, are borne along on the wings of the tide.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The white caps on the dark blue sea<LB>Little sail-boats seem to be.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>The wind grows strong, and the chasing waves leap like a pack of greyhounds after a coursing hare.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Now in angry mood the roaring sea seeks to overleap its God-set bounds, as foolish unregenerate man seeks to be free from laws enacted for his good, and so becomes a slave.  Hear the loud-sounding sea with its ceaseless turmoil; hear the surf, making sand, as it beats without mercy on the helpless shore.  That roar is the incessant beating of the ocean's heart, in wrath.  The kelp lies thick-strewn upon the beach, torn from its submarine garden.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Sometimes the fierce Santa Anna wind blows offshore, and then let the little shipping look out.  This wind chops up good nature as well as the surface of the sea.  The Santa Anna is not conducive to kindliness.  In Spain they have a hot wind called the Solano.  They have a proverb which says, "Ask no favors during Solano."</P>
104.sgm:<P>The storm has spent its fury now, and the sound of the sea is as the mighty music of a pealing anthem, or as if it were rolling a requiem for many a lost crew.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>Five miles away the distant ocean seems so calm; but be in its companionship for months and you will learn that it can be cruel.  And yet compared with the Atlantic, the Pacific <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
104.sgm:<P>CONCERNING THE SEASHORE</P>
104.sgm:<P>Reclining on the beach it is hard to believe that a tidal wave has ever occurred in Southern California.  Yet such is the case.  In 1855 there were great earthquakes in Japan and vicinity.  These earthquakes made a tidal wave which reached our shores in thirty-eight hours.  At San Diego the tide rose twelve feet in one night.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But how protected from elementary disturbances is Southern California; in Japan a recent tidal wave was eighty feet in height, rushed inland two miles and a half along two hundred miles of coast, and drowned thousands.  There, about sunset, four shocks of earthquake were felt; then a terrible noise was heard from the sea, and soon the great wall of water advanced to destroy.  In 1812 there was a seismic disturbance in Los Angeles.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In 1857 and in 1862 there were two California shipwrecks which startled the world.  The first was the loss of the California steamship Central America, in which four hundred and fifty people were drowned, and two million dollars in gold were sunk in the sea off the cape.  The men were miners returning to their Eastern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>In 1862 the Panama steamer Golden Gate, carrying several hundred passengers, and one million five hundred thousand dollars in gold bullion for the Eastern mints, took fire off the coast of Mazatlan, and was run ashore.  The steamer sank, two hundred people were drowned, and the treasure was at the bottom of the sea.  A company was afterwards organized to recover the treasure, and eight hundred thousand dollars was obtained.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Speaking of ships, I should not forget to give an account of the earliest shipbuilding in Southern California, which Professor Polley describes in the following words:--</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Father Sanchez, at the old San Gabriel Mission, being desirous of securing some of the spoils of sea-otter hunting, conceived the idea of building a schooner to ply around the Channel Islands and capture sea otter.  The natives had no knowledge of shipbuilding.  Joseph Chapman, Father Sanchez's major-domo, had been a ship carpenter in early life.  He was the first English-speaking person to settle in California.  He had been taken prisoner by the Californians at Ortego's Rancho when Burchard, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The padres at San Gabriel used to send their Indians to the Malibu Ranch to fish and hunt, drying the fish and venison for a winter's supply.  There deer were very numerous; even in my time an old hunter related how, in Yerba Buena Can&tilde;on he had killed forty-five deer.  In a cave in Sequit Can&tilde;on Mr. M. K. Harris found a great pile of bleached antlers, placed there long ago by some hunter.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Even the sands of our seashore have a trace of gold in them.  Sometimes you see much black in the sand; that black is magnetic iron, and in conjunction with it are minute grains of gold, but not enough to make any one anxious to leave farming.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In the sand queer finds are sometimes made.  Once at Monterey I took a long walk up the beach above the Hotel del Monte, and sat down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>I have read of early coins being found on the Florida coast, but never on our shores.  By the way, I have a gold coin of about 1492 with the portraits of Ferdinand and Isabella thereon, to whom, in some degree, we owe Southern California.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Down near Redondo a boxed Bible once floated ashore.  Clam Jack, who found it, is an old-timer who earns his living by digging clams, and peddling them out in Redondo from his faithful old burro.  I have often wondered whence came that fine Bible, so carefully crated.  Perhaps when some ship was going down it was thrown overboard by some one who knew its worth.  It may have been a message from Heaven to kind old Clam Jack.  May he have accepted the passport to God, so strangely sent.</P>
104.sgm:<P>UNDER THE SEA</P>
104.sgm:<P>Since in this book we have together walked over the mesas and climbed up the mountains, let us also take a trip over the fields at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Wherever kelp is found growing in the sea, there expect to find a rocky bottom.  From such places under the ocean grow up in grandeur the great kelp-trees, their branches reaching upward to the sun.  Through these trees of kelp the fish swim, as wood-birds fly among the tall pines of forests.  As underbrush grow in the submarine deeps the seaweeds and sponges; of the latter only an uncommercial variety is ours.  These seaweeds are as beautiful in design and coloring as wild-wood plants and ferns.  Indeed, some one, I know not who, has said of these seaweeds, "Call us not weeds; we are Ocean's gay flowers."  Red starfish, colored like the planet Mars, dot the rocks at the base of the kelp-trees; even here one is reminded of the heavens.</P>
104.sgm:<P>These great fields of kelp in the sea, anchored to the rocks with their shell-bound <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Be sure the submarine life has its tragedies and its joys, its bitterness and its pleasantries.  My fancy sees some slumbering halibut disturbed by the nose of a provoking porpoise.  Crawfish, spider crabs, and fiddlers supply the ludicrous in God's submarine creations.  Yonder an approaching shark strikes fear into the very bones of a school of slender shrinking fish.  Many are the seals who, silently rising, have bitten off a foot of an unsuspecting sea gull, floating quietly outside the surf line.  The halibut hides in the sand on the bottom of the ocean, almost invisible; as the little fish come near him, he flaps his great fins, rises up, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>It would weary you were I here to enter a complete fish directory of the denizens of our sea.  It is enough if I make mention of the savory barracuda, the excellent yellow-tail, and the bonita, or Spanish mackerel, caught by trolling.  Four hundred yards offshore is the place to expect the biting to begin.  The bonita's favorite food is flying-fish.  In Southern Californian seaport towns it is common to hear the glad exclamation, "The yellow-tail are running," and off to the boats the people hasten.  The surf-fish is often caught by casting a line from the beach into the surf.  Other game of the sea are fine sardines, good sea bass, the peerless graceful sea trout, the delicious croker, the pretty yellow-fin, and the shining smelts.  It is pleasant to go out in a dory and make fast to the kelp, tying one of its strands to the bow, and fishing down into the submarine garden below.  The great red groupers, belonging to the cod family, are found in two places in Santa Monica Bay,--off Redondo and off Point Duma, in a deep hole, where the lead sinks sixty fathoms.  This fish is good to salt, or it makes an excellent chowder.  Among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>But in enumerating our fish I must not forget the happy schools of porpoises.  See them out there! a solid marine mile of them, scampering across the blue sea, seemingly at play.  Their snowy line is ploughing the water into foaming furrows.  Sometimes they come close in to the beach, and then we can watch them slowly searching for food.  Sometimes they are visible right in the wall of a breaking wave, and the effect is the same as when one looks at the large fish in the aquarium at Brighton, England.  Who will build an aquarium in our bay?  A porpoise seems to be the essence or the best synonym of vitality.  Its only rival in vital energy is the humming-bird.  What force they have!  I have seen the old apparently teaching the young to leap and dive and to find food.  In Fisherman's Cove, beyond Redondo, under the high cliffs, the porpoises love to disport themselves.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In the Psalms we read that they who go down to the sea in ships see the wonders of the Lord in the deep.  Let me illustrate by relating a wonder in our own bay.  The sharks lay their eggs here.  The yolk, so to speak, can be seen through the outside.  The egg is shaped like a rectangular purse, with little prongs at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>It reminds one of the divine care in making the rabbits of Colorado change from brown in summer, the color of the hills, to white in winter, when snow covers the ground.  Thus do they escape extinction by the wolf.</P>
104.sgm:<P>After the sharks' eggs are hatched the cases float ashore and are found on the beach curled up and dried.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The spotted leopard shark is common in these waters.  Sometimes these sharks play havoc with the fishermen's gill-nets, which are put out in moonlight nights for smelts.  Let a leopard full five feet long get in the net, and it means much work the next day to repair the broken meshes.  In the seine the sweet-tasting pompano are here caught.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"I won't go out to-day, it is foggy.  I can't catch any fish to-day," said the best fisherman on the coast to me.  "Why not?"  I said.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>In February, 1894, thousands of dead fish were washed ashore all along the coast, from San Francisco to San Diego,--halibut, barracuda, sharks.  They seemed to be in a kind of lethargy.  At first people thought the phenomenon was caused by inhaling gases from submarine seismic disturbances, or volcanic eruptions under the sea.  Others thought it was a contagious disease, just as murrain spreads among cattle.  As to the volcanic-gases idea, do you not remember how, in the "Last Days of Pompeii," after the eruption of Vesuvius the fish came ashore dead?  One fisherman told me that the lights of these dead fish were extended as if gaseous fumes had been inhaled.  Others unwisely said kelp blossoms and dynamite were at the bottom of the mystery.  But I think the general verdict was that this fish plague was caused by worms inside the fish.  Some were found whose liver, sides, and back--practically the whole fish--were full of worms.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>In May, 1895, thousands of parrot-beaked squid were washed ashore in our bay.  Whether these were pursued by a school of large fish and perished in the surf, or whether this occurrence was also caused by disease, I cannot say.  At this time there came countless numbers of sea fowl and buzzards to partake of the squid.</P>
104.sgm:<P>On our shores are found the beautiful iridescent abalone shells, out of which jewelry has been made from aboriginal times until now.  They vary in size from the very tiny shells, hiding under the rocks, to those measuring perhaps eleven by thirteen inches.  The abalone meat is dried and sent to China, where it is a prized food.  Narrow, ear-shaped abalones are found on the China coast.  It is delightful to go abalone hunting among the rocks.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The scallop also is found on some parts of our coast.  This beautiful shell is found on the shores of Palestine also.  The pilgrims of long ago used to wear them as a witness that they had visited the Holy Land.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Then we have cockles, which are a popular food product of France also.  Never shall I forget my elation when first I found cockles imbedded in the mud under the rocks at low tide.  I was reaping without having sowed.  How grateful to my palate was the first one eagerly devoured.  The liquid of these cockles is even more delicious than clam broth.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>There are also clams here, the common kind and the razorback.  At the lower-low tide you see men with rakes over their shoulders, or drawing them through the sands to rake up the clams.  Visions of a fine steaming Yankee clam chowder make this work light.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Mussels there are besides, that product of the rock-bound coasts which Frenchmen like better than we.  The mussel is furnished with a kind of rope which it can attach to a rock or weed to hold the creature in position when the current of the tide is strong.  Freshly gathered mussels have weeds fastened to them which, when rubbed in the dark, glow with a brilliant marine phosphorescence.  I knew a child who wanted to take some mussels home and "keep them tame."</P>
104.sgm:<P>Very inferior oysters are also found on our rocks.  In such places also we have seen great barnacles carrying little barnacles on their backs.  Possibly this may have been the object lesson which taught the Indians how to carry papooses.  Here, too, the crabs scamper away under shelving ledges, as if for their very life.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In the spring the crabs change their shells, and one finds strewn on the beach a quaint collection of odd forms of their last year's clothes.  I have been told by Massachusetts fishermen that a lobster there, during the process of his annual change of shell, is protected against the attacks of his enemies by another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Some ancient submarines of the hermit-crab family certainly live for others, because I have seen scores of barnacles clinging tightly to their shells, thus securing support, defense, and locomotion.</P>
104.sgm:<P>SEA LIONS, SEALS, SEA OTTERS, WHALES, AND SEA SERPENTS</P>
104.sgm:<P>A great sea lion lifting his head high out of the sea is a fine sight.  He is watching, suspiciously, the movements of his observer on the beach.  See him open his great mouth as if with a yawn!  His observer is I, and I am on horseback, taking a three-mile ride on the beach to Flower Can&tilde;on.  After his yawn he sinks into the sea, and after swimming in the same direction I am going for some two hundred yards, comes to the surface again, raises himself higher, and takes a closer look at me.</P>
104.sgm:<P>This programme of scrutiny and submarine versus beach racing is continued, much to my amusement; and, to the credit of the lion be it said, we cross the line at the can&tilde;on at about the same time.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is a sad sight to see a dead sea lion washed up among the rocks, the prey of some man's cruelty who shot just for the shot, knowing he could never get him, even if he were hit.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Once in Oregon a man was driving along the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The seals of Southern California are not generally the fur-bearing variety; but a great number of true fur-bearers were once seen at Hueneme.  The seals on the Channel Islands are caught with lassoes and then sold to zoo&die;logical garderns, where they are often taught to perform many sagacious acts.  In London I have seen one who would sit down in a chair as nicely as you please.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Once we surprised a slumbering seal sunning himself on the sands.  I had no club nor firearms, but running up to him as if to take hold of him, I soon changed my mind when he, awakening, drew himself up on his haunches and faced me with opened mouth and a well-preserved set of teeth.  I had nothing further to say.  With zeal the seal slid down the beach and was away!</P>
104.sgm:<P>When the seals cry or bark it is a sign of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The rich sea otter with his costly coat was once a frequent sight in these waters; but now hunted for his fur, that St. Petersburg noblemen may be by him adorned, he is well-nigh extinct.  I have seen one family of sea-otters near Point Duma.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Whales can be seen spouting quite often in the bay, and further north on the coast are two whaling stations.  Sometimes a dead whale drifts ashore for the seeming especial benefit of the railroad companies, that bring down thousands of people from Los Angeles to see his majesty.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In Monterey there is a walk or approach to the old church made of the vertebr&aelig; of whales.  Such a vertebra makes a pretty good seat.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Of course the sea serpent visits Southern California.  He always does.  When I saw him last he was a long, mast-like log with a cross spar nailed on.  At a distance and as the swells of the sea bobbed it about, the cross-piece rising out of the water like a long neck and head, I was ready to be certain it was alive, until I found it was not.  At another time the sea serpent consisted of a great mass of seaweed, the full length of the deep-water California variety, tightly bound into a sort of rope, which, as it rose and fell on the rolling of the sea, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>FRAGMENTS</P>
104.sgm:<P>When will our people dry their own fish instead of buying it?  Sardines abound in our seas, our hills of olives yield oil, but we send our money to France instead of developing that industry.  Sardines can be put down in a keg in vinegar and salt for all the year round.  The fish are waiting to be caught.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In the Bay of Monterey salmon are caught, but they <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Below Monterey is a Chinese fishing village.  It is very interesting to visit.  I have seen the men home-coming from the sea, and their children would wade into the water to inspect the catch.  Soon one of the men threw out a shark on to the beach, and then were the children delighted, gloating over his capture and death.  Similar was an Hawaiian scene, when the Kanakas would wade into the water and take the fish from the nets, eating them uncooked and just as they came from the sea.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Vancouver halibut are now taken to Boston on ice.  That would have astonished the Puritans.  The Pilgrim Fathers would scarcely have thought the halibut supply could ever vanish!</P>
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104.sgm:<P>BIRDS OF THE BEACH</P>
104.sgm:<P>But what would the beach be without birds?  And birds there are, as I can bear witness.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Perhaps the most distinctive among the Southern California sea birds are the pelicans, or "swans of the sea,"--a name well expressing their appearance.  They sometimes fly with long-sustained flight just along the surf line, and barely above the water; as the wave rises they rise, and accommodate themselves to the rise and fall with wonderful ease.  When they do this they are often on long journeys, and sometimes after surf-fish.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Again, a pelican will dart with amazing velocity from a high flight and dive swiftly after a fish that is underneath; a great splash he made in jumping out of the water, which the pelican saw with astonishing vision.  He seizes the fish with his long hooked beak under the water, and, rising to the surface, gulps him down into his capacious pouch.  Sometimes a company of pelicans will dive together, and afterward float on the water, chattering, exultant over their success.  But generally speaking, the pelican is a slow-flying, majestic, dignified bird; indeed, when he is full grown, he has earned the title of "Grandpa Pelican."</P>
104.sgm:<P>On a sunny day you can see them on the rocks near the shore, expanding and drying their great outstretched wings.  Once we shot a rare <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The pelicans are often accompanied by smaller birds who eat what Sir Pelican does not swallow.  He is a grand fisherman, and catches more fish than he can eat.  Long live the beneficent pelican!  And there is some chance for him, because, fortunately, he himself is not edible.</P>
104.sgm:<P>These birds are our winter guests from the North.  People who can afford it, and who need it,--those whose blood is thin from disregard of the laws of health,--imitate the pelicans and seek winter warmth here.  Ah! men pay dearly for wealth.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In the spring the pelicans leave us for their resting places, many going to Humboldt Lake in Nevada.  At this season large numbers of these birds fly at night over Mount Lowe in their journey northward, as Professor Lowe informs me.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The sea gulls on this coast are beautiful birds.  How graceful they are as they float along, their pinions resting on the resisting air!  Have you ever seen the gulls flapping hurriedly off the rocks as they see a swell approaching, about to dispute possession of their perch?  The shrill <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>When the ducks arrive from the north they are lean after their long flight, but they soon become fat on our fine feed.  See that lazy duck as he sits dozing on the wave, lulled to sleep by the gentle wave; he is contented with Southern California.  There are many varieties of duck here.  The canvasbacks are found chiefly in inland waters like Bear Valley Lake.  The sprig and blue bill make their winter quarters here, and the rare masked-head duck, a visitor from Arctic waters.  The great green heads of the mallards, shining in the sun, stir the hunter's heart, and when the birds are brought home they arouse the housewife's skill.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The coots arrive before the ducks.  Coots are very stupid birds, which fact has given rise to the expression "stupid as a coot."</P>
104.sgm:<P>Some Eastern people who settled in this country were unaccustomed to the different varieties of sea fowl.  Everything that flew like a duck, a duck they counted it, and as such fit to be eaten.  Their inexperience brought them trouble.  First, in happy expectation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The white egret and the bronze sickle-bill ibis are perhaps the most beautiful sea birds that walk our sands.  The stately stork, startled by our coming, salutes us with his dismal cronk, and flying seaward alights upon the buoyant kelp.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Of shags there is legion.  I have seen the sea-line horizon darkened by their unbroken ranks flying north or south.  It is picturesque to see the great rocks at sundown fringed with these piratical-looking birds.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Among the early fall birds to arrive are the pretty bobabouts (we call them).  They are small snipe-like birds; they light on the shallow pools by the lagunas, and, revolving quickly, stir up the waters, and then eat the particles which thereupon rise to the surface.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Then, of course, we have the killdeer plover, beloved by other birds because his shrill warning note proclaims some danger.  Many a death from gun or hawk has he averted; and he struts as proudly as if he knew his importance.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>One of the most remarkable sights by the sea is when a school of large fish pursue a school of small fish to eat them.  Then there is a battle royal!  From far and near the sea fowl hasten; for their keen eyes have seen the stirred waters.  A swarm of gulls, sea pigeons, and pelicans circle about in the air over the struggle in the water, now diving for a crippled sardine or seizing a frightened pompano.  Still other birds come to the feast, and countless shags fill up the ranks like battlefield thieves who rob the dead.  Winged harpies are they instead of camp-followers.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Now the sun sets on the sea; and all are happy because they are spending the summer at Santa Monica instead of at Redlands.</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>RANCH LIFE</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>So you have never before been on a ranch?  I am glad to welcome you to the Rancho Beautiful, that you may have a glimpse of real Southern California.  I shall delight in your delight, for to view a country for the first time i&circ;s a great pleasure; and your eyes and ears will be kept busy with the new wild flowers and the strange bird-notes.</P>
104.sgm:<P>When first I sought a country home I told a friend I wished to find a farm near the ocean, and under the lee of the mountains; with a trout brook, wild trees, a lake, good soil, and excellent climate, one not too hot in summer.  To this hope my good wife demurred, saying, "You ask too much."  Such, however, was the picture of an ideal farm which came to my mind.  But my friend said, "I know such a place, I think, but I would like to refresh an old memory and see it again."  So he went, and came back to me, reporting it just as he had thought, and that it was for sale.  Well, we went to see it; sure enough, there was the hope realized, the mental picture portrayed in reality.  So we bought it.  God, in his goodness, had brought me to just my ideal farm.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>I have grown to love this land.  When we moved from the city to the country, it seemed like returning from folly to truth.  Then did I first grasp the lines <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"God made the country, but man the city;"</HI>
104.sgm:<P>and Cooper's <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh! friendly to the best pursuits of man;<LB>Friendly to thought, to virtue, and to peace,<LB>Domestic life in rural pleasures passed."</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Oh! to be free from assailing care; to see no envious faces, no saddened eyes; to see or hear no unking look or word!  To absorb the peace the hills have, to drink in the charm of the brook, and to receive the strength of the mountains, by dwelling in their company,--this is living!  To lose one's self by the side of the sea!  Free indeed am I!  A freeholder!  Behold, these hills are mine in trust; none, save my country, disputes my right to yonder ocean; through Christ the sky is mine.  Yes, I am a monarch of all I survey; which reminds me how Abraham Lincoln once said of a United States surveyor in California, who obtained large lands after he had surveyed them, that he was monarch of all he surveyed.  It <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
104.sgm: a temptation to some, to many indeed, who have obtained much worldly goods, to sit down, and say, "Soul, take thy ease;" yet, in the midst of these temporal blessings and beauties, may I not let myself find therein my chief consolation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Here in these almost holy hills, in this calm and sweet retreat, protected from the wearing haste of city-life,--here time flies; but only as the farm birds flit from tree to tree, not as the lark speeds pursued by the hawk.  The ennobling stillness makes the mind ascend to heaven.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is delightful to live in such a place that, when the prevailing winds blow, one can send one's mind in the direction whence the wind comes, and realize that it sweeps over a pure expanse of ocean, or over righteous aromatic mountains; and not to be obliged to breathe the air that is blown over an iniquitous city or over some malodorous low-lands.  In this good country you need not fear to take a deep, long breath.  Surely 't is life to live in this wonderland!</P>
104.sgm:<P>Happy the man to whom Nature has not lost its charm.  Unhappy he who, enslaved and engulfed by ambition, mammon, care, or pain, cannot listen to nature and enjoy the sounds of her songs.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh, who would live in a city?<LB>Not I, not I.<LB>Oh, who would live in the country?<LB>'Tis I, 't is I.</HI>
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104.sgm:<P>It stirs many happy thoughts to narrate to you the tale of the halcyon days in which we laid out this landscape, or, rather, added some human touches to what before was divine.  Our smiling valley was as a coliseum in the hills, and it appeared, a friend once said, as if the mountains had stepped back to give us space for our home.  To enter the valley we made a mile of road.  This long roadway was so built along the edge of the foot hills that the little valley was not to be seen until, near its end, the road made a sharp turn, and lo! away down beneath you were the buildings, and orchards, and children, and chickens.  Not until long afterward did we learn that we had unconsciously achieved the triumph of the landscape gardener's art, namely, to make the chief beauty of a place appear as a surprise at the end of an avenue.</P>
104.sgm:<P>That fountain we placed before the house with such enthusiasm!  Nothing enlivens a little landscape like a joyous fountain.  See it splash!  See it shoot upward as the pressure varies!  A fountain is a very synonym of childish merriment.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Those trees over there?  They are wild walnuts.  The California native nuts have sweeter, richer, more oily meat than the Eastern shag-bark, and are superior in flavor to the English walnut, yet you never see them on sale; Americans have no time to open them, perhaps.</P>
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104.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>A wild-walnut nutting in our October,<LB>When the merry winds are showering nuts down,<LB>Is a pleasure well known to country folk brown,<LB>While poor pale city people stay under cover<LB></HI>
104.sgm:.<LB>     "What are those trees climbing the air?"  Oh, those are eucalypts.  They live, after they have got a two-year start, without our giving them water.  They have deep tap roots, moisture-seeking: were it not for this, I should be constrained to say that in summer-time they must live on the disintegration of their tissues.  There are many varieties of this tree: one, the ficifolia, has beautiful red blossoms; another has lemon-scented leaves.  They are evergreen.<LB>     The eucalyptus and its golden-blossoming comrade, the grevillia, came from Australia, you know.  It was benignant of that land to so serve California.  They satisfied her one need.  I knew the man who first sent the eucalyptus seeds to this State from Australia, and also the man who planted the first grove of them,--a little forest.  The former was that veteran, Bishop William Taylor.<LB>     Suppose we take a walk, pick and eat some tangerine oranges.  They are ripe now.  Do they not taste good?  Let us leave the home-garden roses, fleur-de-lys and sweet alyssum.  Rose-scented air is all right, but after all wild flowers are the only flowers.  Give me the wild garden.  See that field of bright johnny-jump-ups.  This bunch of yellow flowers, with their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:green leaves intermingled, is worth a florist's shop window.  Smell!  "What is that tall stalk crowned with a magnificent white flower?"  Oh, that is the Spanish bayonet.  Look on the mountain: they stand as sentinels here and there.  It is a much sought honor to bring home, on horseback, the first bayonet of the season.  Yes, I think you can cut one.  Come up through this hillside tangle of chilecota, and glistening red-blossomed gooseberry bush.  We will pass through that sumac brush, weaving our way as intricately as yon golden-thread vine makes its way over its neighbors.  Ah!  Here we are; the prize is yours!<LB>     I see by your countenance that you love Southern California already.  You are only one more to be added to a long list.  This land is as dear to our hearts as is an edelweiss to a Swiss in a foreign land.  He keeps it pressed between his Bible's leaves, and thus carries with him his native nation and his nation's God.  To what else shall we liken this land?  It is as pleasant as it is to be writing a book by an oak fire, when it is raining hard outside.  It is as precious to a man as is the land he has cleared with his own hands, or his first-raised ear of corn when he holds it in his grasp.  We are as delighted with it as is the boy when he first finds he can whistle and whittle.  This country is as good as bread, toasted by the open dining-room fireplace and served hot and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:mellow to waiting mouths by mother's hand.  It is as beautiful to the heart's estimation as it is to a mother to see in her husband the father-love for her children.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The sleeping smile of a little child<LB>Is a beautiful sight to see,<LB>And when that child is your own, own child,<LB>It is joy untold to thee!</HI>
104.sgm:<P>But what similes can we employ to describe the sad lot of a man who never knew Southern California?  His life is as uncomfortable as is a man's position when impaled upon a barbed-wire fence; it is as sad as it is when an author, in the midst of a happy inspiration, perceives that the oil is failing in his evening lamp.</P>
104.sgm:<P>I shall take you on many trips hereabout.  You must know that we have given our own names to the places around us, because it was un-named ground.  That high ridge up there, from which the view is surpassing, we call the Wunderscho&die;n Vista Ridge.  You smile.  Why should we not?  In this polyglot country of ours, why not have such a title?  It will appeal to three nationalities.  And there is no one word in English that will express what <HI REND="italics">wunderscho&die;n</HI>
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104.sgm:<P>Yes, there is much to see here and plenty of room.  It is as plenty as the Eastern child found it when he went to visit an uncle on a Kansas ranch.  There was no yard inclosed about the house, but to each point of the compass the prairies stretched in unbroken reaches to the horizon.  The lad looked about to see what he thought of the place, and then his past city experience prompted him to remark to his uncle, "Well, this is a nice place, but where is your back yard?"  The immensity of everything in California soon strikes the Easterner, and, like the lad, he also misses Eastern areas and smaller spaces.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Indeed, friend, there are far distances to go to see all I have in mind to show you.  You will soon lose your metropolitan complexion and ere long be taken for a Mexican.  Once, traveling up the valley of the Rio Grande, in New Mexico, before the iron horse had plunged into those parts, we were told we could make that night's camp at a Mexican's ranch, at Sen&tilde;or Garcia's.  At dusk we came up to the ranch house.  In the twilight, I approached a dark-visaged sombrero-man, and in my best Spanish inquired if he were Sen&tilde;or Garcia?  "No, sir, my name is Greenwood, from Cincinnati," was the reply in my astounded ears.</P>
104.sgm:<P>We have a cactus in the garden I want to show you.  It came from the desert.  It is utterly homely and repelling, and yet its large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Will you take a walk with me?  You may have your choice.  What is your mood?  If ambitious, we will climb those Ehrenbreitstein heights over there, and just beyond them we can look down into Cataclysm Chasm, an awful depth.  Or, if you are in quietness of mind, let us go up the narrow wooded lane to where the old white adobe cabin stands, and so on around, by Mocking-bird Valley road, home again.  Or, if you choose the sound of waters, let us invade the mysteries of the great can&tilde;on and get near that mighty red sandstone cliff, which we call Crag Noble.  You can see it from here.  It surmounts and guards an alcove in the foothills.  Leaving that, we can get some trout above the great balanced rock.</P>
104.sgm:<P>If variety is the spice of scenery as well as of life, surely this sea-mont country, with its brooks and fields, its woodlands and mountainsides, its beaches and rock shores, and all in a wonderful climate, offer more variety than any country ever seen, save Chilie, perhaps.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The springtime coloring is unique.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Therefore, thus once sang unbidden my happy farmer's heart, as it beheld the ocean and the fields blending their colors:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Blue and green, blue and green,<LB>'Tis the fairest sight ever was seen.<LB>Green and blue, green and blue,<LB>Oh, my homestead, <HI REND="italics">how</HI>
104.sgm:<P>THE SYCAMORE GROVE</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is such a beautiful day, suppose we go over into the Sycamore Grove, and enjoy the restful presence of the green-leaved trees.  Never fear the rippling river; there are good stepping-stones across it.  A Southern California river has three experiences every year: we can go over it now on these stones; yet only three months ago a team of horses were nearly drowned in its depths, as they were crossing this very ford; and five months <HI REND="italics">from</HI>
104.sgm: now this lovely river will have disappeared in the sandy gravel,--it will not be dead, but running a goodly subterranean stream, ten feet down. In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"Yes, Californian, this <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
104.sgm: a day of days!"  It is truly Italian,--a <HI REND="italics">dolce-far-niente-al-frescosiesta</HI>
104.sgm:<P>It is one of those surpassing days when the temperature of the atmosphere blends with the temperature of the body.  At such a time our feelings are harmonious and heavenly.  In eternity, I fancy, the ransomed live always in such conditions.  Why, to-day the very skies seem to lean towards us in sympathy and love, seeking to help men to be better.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Here we are, safely over on the other side.  Let us take the winding road that leads through the knee-deep grasses to the Sycamore Grove: there is bird-land.  You can always find music there.  In the late afternoon it is pleasant to see the mourning doves, with their shrill-sounding flight, coming to drink at the waters.  Hark to the notes of the distant cow-bells up the creek, that reality may meet romance, lest you lose your head and think you are really in paradise.</P>
104.sgm:<P>These green glades ought to make any cow-bells musical,--alfilaria, burr-clover, and foxtail.  You know, in the first good rains the burr-clover seed-balls literally spring to life.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>I am glad you brought the gun.  We are sure to see quail.  We catch a sight of a cotton-tail, rabbit and away he is gone in the brush.  Listen! hear the calling of the quail: they are over yonder.  We will get our breakfast by and by.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Sometimes in the morning the voice of a linnet announcing the dawn of day will open my eyes.  "Awake! awake!" he gently sings, for the time to work has come.  Then, anon, our home-quail covey, that we never shoot, come around the early door to find the children's crumbs, and I hear them from my room, "Chirp-chirp!"</P>
104.sgm:<P>The linnets and the quail, how we love them!  In the spring some one comes in and says, "The linnets are back again!"  Then we enter into their little lives, and mourn with them, when later the wicked racer snakes climb up the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Here we are in the heart of the sycamores.  Do you note the formation of this group of majestic trees?  It is like the nave of a cathedral.  We call it the Temple, since the woods were God's first church.  See how the glorious white-barked sycamore limbs, covered with their great green shady leaves, arch over the aisles, with openings to the blue heavens here and there to increase our faith.  What a place for an &aelig;olian organ!</P>
104.sgm:<P>A hundred yards yonder, in that mass of leafy shade of sycamores, lies the Isle of Peace.  When you want to be alone go over there, if the birds' talk won't interrupt your thoughts.  The river breaks and runs all around it, but you can get over on stones.  You will find strangely hued orioles there.  Like movable jewels set in the air, their flight will catch your eye.  Once a pair of these built on the ridgepole of a rarely used tent we had pitched, and actually hatched out a brood.  You will see gentle wrens,--they always make me think of home; and when, like Tityrus, you recline under the wide-spreading shade, you can watch a battle in the air, as the little birds pursue and fight the robber ravens.  There lives over there, also, a family of black flycatchers, with their jaunty caps, although most of their tribe, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The swallows will let you study them.  How delicately they skim over the water, sipping as they fly!  Nothing is so delicate save a smilax blossom or the soft step of a fawn.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Ah! but these swallows do us much mischief.  In the spring they come by thousands on a single day.  Before the house the air is alive with their graceful curve&grave;d flights, they seem so glad to reach their chosen restingplace.  Alas! what do you think?  They soon begin to bring mud from the riverbank, and bespatter our house and windows with it.  They ought to go to the cliffs over there and build as God gave them instinct.  They used to before we built our home.</P>
104.sgm:<P>So when they assailed our house in myriad numbers then began the battle of the swallows.  Again and again did we drive them away with shotguns and demolish their nests plastered against the eaves, but just as often did they return, loath to surrender their selected site; until finally, discouraged by sheets hung out from the windows flapping in their faces, they took to the cliffs and there abode.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The most singular part of it is they come back every year, and have to be driven away.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>If you tire of birds you can hunt in the arroyo seco for agates; some are beautiful, almost rubies and emeralds.  If you go to sleep instead, look out you do not lie down over a tarantula's nest.  You have seen in museums those great, hairy, black spiders, whose venom is only equaled by the rattlesnakes.  I think you will not be molested. When we go home, I will show you one of their clay nests.  The hinge of the trap-door of their cellis one of God's wonders and California's mysteries.  The poison of this beast, for such is he, is so virulent that whiskey has been honored by the title of tarantula juice.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Looking out of our window, at suppertime, I once spied a tarantula crossing a flower-bed in the garden.  In a moment I had my stick, and in another, my stick had the tarantula.  Three others have we killed.  They like to come out at twilight.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Their building skill is indeed wonderful.  In Europe, when you meet her educated people, they ask an American first about Niagara, then Yosemite and the Big Trees, and then about the Yellowstone and Old Faithful, the geyser.  But there are marvels in our animal kingdom, like the tarantula's nest, that would astonish Pliny.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"What is that noise?"  Oh, that is a yellow--hammer driving his beak into a tree; thud--thud--thud.  Swift-winged is he and a great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>You know the woodpeckers, their cousins, have a great trick in our high mountains.  They drill holes in the pine-trees, circle after circle around the pine, and in these holes stick acorns.  What for, do you think?  Well, by and by, in some way a worm comes in the acorn, and it is to get that worm this contriving bird goes to all that labor!  It must be considered a rare dish,--I suppose his bluepoints or terrapin.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The day is growing old.  Ah!  I thought it was time for the mocking-birds.  Hear that!  Talk about music!  It is a happy day when the mocking-bird makes his home near your dwelling.  Then his woodland solo fills the air morn and eve.  One used to imitate a private patented whistle call by which I greeted my wife.  In the Mexican language the mocking-bird is called the bird of four hundred tongues.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Yes, we do have robins, once in a great while.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Let us search this tree for nests.  Is not the tree lovely?  If I were a bird I would build in an elderberry-tree.  Look sharp for a humming-bird's nest.  I just saw the proprietor, whose breast so glowed that it would shame a ruby from Ceylon.  Besides, the doleful mourning doves build here.</P>
104.sgm:<P>I have only one ungranted wish this day of delight, and that is that I might show you Southern California's <HI REND="italics">rara avis</HI>
104.sgm:<P>I suppose by this time you think, comrade, I know nothing except birds.  Well, so be it; but it is pleasant to have something to study besides your old Boston English sparrows.  It is such a relief to find a place where the English sparrow has not penetrated.  His ubiquitous self, like the Anglo-Saxon race, has been born to conquer.  If it keeps on, these invading birds will take our country and give it to the queen.  They have not reached our woods yet, but alas! for how long?</P>
104.sgm:<P>Now let us go for the quail.  Is your gun loaded?</P>
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104.sgm:<P>RANCH THOUGHTS AND MODERN MEMORIES</P>
104.sgm:<P>What hope there is in new ploughed land!  Tom and Prince, their great muscles straining to the task, plod steadily along, while the shining ploughshare turns up the sweet-smelling soil.  See the blackbirds follow, like porpoises in the wake of a ship: surely the plough is the blackbird's friend.  When the last furrow is finished the farmer's heart rejoices, and as he sows the seed, the click of the corn-planter is heard in the land.  Now and then he sings to his own tune,-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"One for the blackbird, one for the crow,<LB>One for the cut-worm, and two to grow."</HI>
104.sgm:<P>A little time is left before dinner: he takes the ruthless hoe and starts in to clear a piece of land of nettles, and proves his good character by not getting angry.  No one knows the meaning of the expression "on nettles," unless he has felt them in his hands.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But what is that?  Dinne-r-r-r! and how glad is he to find on the shady porch an earthen jar, or olla, of cool water to brighten him up.  Who could not compose a bit of verse in its honor?</P>
104.sgm:<P>THE SONG OF THE OLLA <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I sing of the olla, full of water so cool,<LB>On the porch, under tree or placed in the school.<LB>The old oaken bucket has a rival now found<LB>In the hearts of the people who here till the ground.</HI>
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104.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">In distant New England the well-sweep holds sway,<LB>But California people have a different way.<LB>From the spring, or the brook, or the well, if you will,<LB>At evening the housewife earthen ollas does fill.<LB>In these boons to mankind, allowed to remain over night,<LB>While a law in the mean time works its wonder of might,<LB>The water by morning is as cold as if ice<LB>From Tahoe had made it especially nice:<LB>And the coolness still keeps through the heat of the day,<LB>Be it time of the fruitage or harvest of hay.<LB>So I sing of the olla with water so cool;<LB>'Tis only fulfilling the good Golden Rule.<LB>Then speed to the olla with feet winged by thirst,<LB>And drink of its water, thanking God for it, first.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>How proud we were when we sat down to dinner at a well supplied table, and realized that all on the board came from <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
104.sgm:<P>The afternoon's work in the orchard is pleasant work; trees show such gratitude in growth for the care you give them.  How happy is a man when his new orchard is all set out!  What a relief in its completion!  The birds fly about, perching upon the tops of the little trees, as if they thought the orchard was set out for them.  And, by and by, how delighted is the young orchardist when his trees have grown large enough to make a considerable shadow.  What <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:fine trees they are!  How he welcomes the buds; what promises of fruitage!  Aye, happiness can be found in the orchard as well as in the dictionary.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The breezes that blew seemed to blow for me,<LB>As I hoed the orchard from tree to tree.<LB>Oh!  I was so happy then.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>In Southern California "when our ship comes in" is changed to "when our orange orchard comes in bearing;" then, to be sure, we can afford an organ, and we will go to the beach!  Enough castles in the air have been thus built in the name of orange and lemon groves to cover the continent.</P>
104.sgm:<P>By the way, the Spanish way of securing finely flavored fruits or grapes is to remove much of the fruit that comes, so that the strength of the sap goes into just a few peaches or bunches of muscats.</P>
104.sgm:<P>There is poetry in farming.  There is pure enjoyment.  What thrills of joy has the farmer when he first hears the melody of his own mowing-machine!  The waving fields of glistening grain, when the breezes are chasing and trying to overtake each other across the waving tops of the bending barley, the sheen of the barley-blue sticks showing underneath (what a color is barley-blue!), make up for the tiredness of ploughing-time.  But alas for the blackbirds that build in the barley!  Behold the blue eggs in the laborious nest, and here comes the relentless <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The smell of the new-mown meadow sends its fragrance over the fields.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Oh, yes, farm life here has many delights; for instance, we have ripe fresh fruits of one kind or another from New Year's to Christmas.  If it is not oranges it is figs, and if the figs are gone, it is something else,--something ripe on the trees all the year round.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The following story is a common classic on the Pacific coast.  Oft has it been told around the hearth.  It illustrates how one farmer succeeds while another fails.</P>
104.sgm:<P>There were two farmers whose farms of equal acres of the same quality joined.  Each strong farmer had the same number of strong sons.  The first made a great success of farming.  The second did not do well; so he said to the first, "Why is it, neighbor, that under equal conditions you succeed and I fail?"  "Well," said his neighbor, "in my work I say, `Come on, boys,' while you say `Go, boys.'"</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is getting dark on the ranch.  A heavy fog is setting in from the sea.  Do you notice what a muffled sound the surf has?  At regular intervals we hear the dismal sound of the steam <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Now another sound is heard.  Our lodge-gate bell is a mile away, at the entrance gate.  It always announces the coming of friends or foes.  It is a singular bell; it is nothing more nor less than the barking of the dogs the herder keeps at the cabin by the gate.  To be poetical we call the shanty our lodge, though it has no ivy nor lattice windows.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Again the dogs!  Methinks their barking bespeaks some traveler belated.</P>
104.sgm:<P>How pleasantly secure one feels who, while lying abed, hears the watch-dogs outside barking vociferously, threatening the coyotes or pumas, robbers or tramps.  Now the sharp falsetto of the collie sounds the alarm, and then comes the deep bass growl and Myron-Whitney-like tones of our great Saint Bernard as he barks out his "beware, beware."</P>
104.sgm:<P>A FARMER'S FANCIES</P>
104.sgm:<P>During the long winter rains, when the swollen rivers rush fiercely to the sea, and the rain seems likely to fall forever, how often in fear should we wonder if disaster were not coming, were it not for the rainbow promise of God.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Hear the gutters sing!  See the leaden rainbags, wind-driven, float across the valley, until, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>After the first rains in Southern California the dust of the dry season is washed out of the air, and the charm of the atmosphere is remarkable.  The mountains then become twice as beautiful and the sea thrice as blue.  How good God is to make the fields all green again!</P>
104.sgm:<P>But the storm is not over, for, look! the clouds are still clinging to the mountains.  Yet really I am not sure, the weather is so unreliable.  I lost my faith in it the other day because my friend, who was my chief admiration as a weather prophet, was himself deceived.  Thus it was:--</P>
104.sgm:<P>It was on the third day of December.  We met on the road, my said neighbor and I.  The all important question, "When do you expect rain?" brought forth the following reply: "Well, I am sure this is going to be another dry year.  I have reasons for knowing, as I have for years observed the game, and know their habits when a dry year is upon them.  I am able, thus, to feel certain we shall have but little rain this year."  He spoke under a cloudless sky.  Yet, would you believe it, in two days' time there began to fall from heaven such copious showers that the rivers roared, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>One beneficent phenomenon of Southern California, which I think statistics will prove, is the frequency with which it rains in the night, while the sun shines the next morning.  It clears in the night.  When I first came here to live, a Californian in the Pullman said I should find it so.  I did not believe him.  I thought he was trying to sell me some land.  But you can believe me.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Were it not for the rain, our cattle would die; so, in literature, cattle should be mentioned after the rain.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Cattle on the mesas, sheep on the hills, goats on the mountains in California.  When you do not have a dry year, and when murrain passes you by, cattle-raising is a happy life.  His grazing herds on the hills around, a man can imagine Abraham's life.</P>
104.sgm:<P>How proud was I when the blacksmith made my first branding-iron!  What a fine triangle that surely is!  To get in the saddle and ride through the herds and think how much that steer will weigh next May, and to watch him grow,--that is pleasant.  With what pride does a farmer view his fattened three-year-old steer!  How he needs and wants his value in money, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>When the farmer sleeps, his young cattle are growing; such is a happy waking thought.  After breakfast, he goes out and sees the browsing kine with curling tongues gathering the tender moist morning grasses into their mouths, and he salutes the pleasant-visaged cows by name.  One he calls Brin, another Brindle, still another Bryn Mawr; but this he never says when any one is about.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is interesting to know the ways of cattle,--to see their feeling when one dies of fever or some other sickness; they will stand about as if in real sorrow.  Again, in the cold wet rains I have seen them standing close together, their sides touching, thus proving an animal-mutual-benefit association.  As grazing cattle avoid the windward side of a hill, so should men avoid those places and persons that incite them to sin, and those conditions which jeopardize their health.</P>
104.sgm:<P>One evening among the men there were whispers of cattle thieves.  Blood had been found on the trail.  A man had told another that he had deer meat in the gunny-sack on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:his saddle.  <HI REND="italics">He</HI>
104.sgm:<P>It is a fair sight to see a large untouched pasture, whose grasses have been allowed to come to maturity, undisturbed.  We have just turned our zoo&die;logical collection into it.  That is the children's donkey: his name is Don Quixote--Don-key-o-ti, don't you see?  He is a remarkable burro; he will lie down and roll under a barbed-wire fence.  Our lambs, Angora kids, pigs, poultry, and the Roman peacock are all enjoying the field.  Do not you think in case of a famine our place would be a good one to come to?  Pigs are not altogether disagreeable, if they are black and have plenty of range: I am sure those three over there, Breakfast, Dinner, and Supper, are pleasant to behold.  How they must wonder what the garbage pail contains, when they see the boy coming with their <HI REND="italics">dejeuner a&grave; la fourchette</HI>
104.sgm:<P>It is said, by the way, that pigs cannot swim without cutting their throats.  It is not so.  Mine can; although in swimming long distances their long horny hoof-toes might cut gashes in their necks.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Pretty sights are to be seen on a farm.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>But goat-meat is not good when you buy a leg of mutton, and, bringing it home, find the long goat hairs on the meat, and ejaculate, miserable, "Why, it is goat!"</P>
104.sgm:<P>In the time of Moses the people were wise enough to stew the goat meat.  It was against the law to stew a kid in its mother's milk, which was probably a statute to curb the cruelty of the people, and to make their minds gentle.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Leonardo, our goat-herder, had a remarkable financial experience.  Several years before he had borrowed a dollar from a friend, who came one day for his money.  They conversed, and it seemed right to both that interest should be paid.  Neither could compute it, nor had either any idea what amount to charge or pay.  They settled on a five-dollar basis, one for principal and four for interest.  Has civilization been of use to Leonardo?  Yes, indeed, but his grandfather never would have thought of paying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Mountaineer, our fine dapple-gray horse, had a sad fate.  Driven down the beach too rapidly for so heavy a horse he was prostrated with colic.  He fell in the surf, and with difficulty Olof removed the harness, got the spring wagon backed away, and, mounting his mate, rode rapidly for help to the vaquero with his riata.  Coming up, the vaquero soon lassoed poor Mountaineer, and on horseback drew him out of the surf.  But it was too late; he was then almost drowned.  We worked over him a long time, but in vain.  He is buried by the side of the loud-sounding sea.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It would not be fair to leave the bees out of this book,--their hives are found on so many of our ranches.  It is pleasant to consider how the bees are working every day for you without ceasing, and that the food they are making comes from the flowers.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>My bees are making honey for me<LB>As they fly from flower, shrub, and tree.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>And what patience and industry they have!  Go to the ant and the bee, thou sluggard!  Sir John Lubbock states that a single bee with all its labors will not collect more than a teaspoonful of honey during a season.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Here in this southland you can buy honey made from orange blossoms or from the wild white sage.</P>
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104.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>But the best honey of all, it seems to me,<LB>Is what you find wild in a sycamore-tree.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>The finding of a bee tree is a great occasion.  In a hollow in its trunk, away up high sometimes, is the bees' treasure house, where for months they have been storing away their precious honey.  Ah! just look in there! there is spreading for a thousand slices of mother's bread.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>If you think you're as young as you used to be<LB>Just try to climb a spreading sycamore-tree.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Two Scotchmen in the early days, I have read, came to California.  Each wished to bring with him some memorial of his homeland.  One brought the thistle, his country's emblem; the other a small swarm of honey-bees.  Those men have passed away; one brought with him a curse to our land, the Scotch thistle; while the other brought a blessing, for the bees increased and filled the mountains.  And the account I quote from added, "Which do you bring when you move into a new locality,--good or evil?"</P>
104.sgm:<P>I have some fine thistles that would cause a wandering Scotchman to rejoice at the sight, but if he owned the land he would prefer the goldenrod.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Bees and orchards do not work together well.  One hive may do no great harm if you have a large wild range.  Sometimes a bee ranch in an orchard neighborhood will ruin the latter business, for the bees eat the fruit.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>The yellow-jackets are a great trial to us.  The rascals just live off our apricots.  A friend of mine said the only way to prevent this pest and have enough peaches to eat, was to plant more trees than the yellow-jackets could possibly eat the fruit of.</P>
104.sgm:<P>No, it is not all sunshine in Southern California.  The gophers and the chicken hawks have declared war against us: there is no hope of arbitration.  So we lay in a supply of ammunition: strychnined raisins and carrots, traps and guns.  The present state of the war is favorable--to us.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Ah! we have paid in these years a heavy tribute of poultry to the denizens of the air and brush.  Many a good breakfast has been loss to us and gain to the coyote, hawk, or owl.  And, alas! our vegetable kingdom also has had to pay large taxes to those patience-destroying gophers.  One could forgive a gopher for eating just a little, but when he puts in his little pocket a good lot more, and runs off with it into his hole, it is disgraceful.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But we have made an alliance with experience and hope for victories in the future.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Weeds play their part in the drama of Southern California life.  Who among us has not met in battle the tumbleweed, which, when ripe, is a great ball-shaped mass, and becomes the plaything of the autumn Santa Annas? and the loco-weeds, which kill your sheep after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:making them <HI REND="italics">non compos mentis</HI>
104.sgm:<P>These are not all of our troubles.  We have mosquitoes, but they are not half so venomous as those in New Jersey, nor so numerous.  Then there are fleas, too.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The scale also wars against the orchardist, but science and the lady-bugs are driving away that terror.</P>
104.sgm:<P>I want this to be "a plain unvarnished tale," so I must say that we have other troubles, such as water-rights, jumping claims, live-stock preferring your own grass to their owners' (although the latter may know something about this), and, rarely, dry years.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Last evening a mountain lion was troubling the night.  The dogs barked till daybreak.  The puma's shrill screams made the young stock nervous, and men clutched their rifles.</P>
104.sgm:<P>I have just seen the lion's great tracks in the soft ground.</P>
104.sgm:<P>THE RODEO</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Bonifacio, we shall have the spring rodeo on the twentieth of March," called out the owner of the rancho to a passing horseman.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Then, seguro, I will be there; many thanks."</P>
104.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Seguro</HI>
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104.sgm:<P>"Segurro, I will be there."</P>
104.sgm:<P>The twentieth is here.  Early in the morning some fifteen mounted men assemble at the ranch-house and, starting forth, hunt the hills and valleys in a twenty-mile area for cattle, and drive them all to a certain vale, where there is a large sycamore-log corral.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The patron, or owner, in the morning tells each man which course to take, for, as the range is so many miles in extent, like a general he must place his men that no portion be left unsearched.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Si, sen&tilde;or, si, sen&tilde;or!" and away they all go, happy as larks, for it is <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Oh, the happy vaquero!  Who would be a banker, when he could ride the smiling hills and hide himself and horse in the tall mustard!  Who would be a slave to desk and electric-light darkness in a back room, when sunshine is free to all?  Aye, a liberal competence is splendid, but slavery is often its price.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But then we cannot all be vaqueros.</P>
104.sgm:<P>When the sun has well warmed the hills, the cattle can be seen approaching the zuma corral <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Some men guard the group of cattle so segregated; others hold in check the original herd.  When all the calves have been segregated with their mothers, then the drive to the corral begins, and amid much shouting, forcing with flying rawhides, and vociferating, they are made to enter the corral; the bars of sycamore are put up, the fire is lighted to heat the brands, and the knife-men sharpen their knives on the oil-stone.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The mothers, remembering their last year's experience, keep their calves close to them, giving a kind of a moaning moo, and licking them with their tongues.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The vaqueros re-cinch their horses and uncoil their riatas.  At a word from the owner the lassoing commences.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The Bonifacio Cosio, with a well aimed cast, captures a strong calf by the head, and in a moment Pasqual curls his riata around the hind legs of the same calf.  Both vaqueros then spur their horses in opposite directions and the calf falls to the ground, ready to be treated.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Then up runs Francisco Ruiz with his knife, does the work required, cutting the ear with the patron's ear-mark, and Olof is on hand with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Meanwhile other riatas have been flying for their prey.  There are six horsemen in the great corral.  Soon the Nicholson boys, brothers, have shown their American skill, and, turning in laughter to the Mexicans, call out, "Aha! see what dos gringos can do!"</P>
104.sgm:<P>The horsemen make it lively for the knifemen and the branders.  The winge&acute;d riatas cut the air, and stirring shouts of "Vivo!" "Vivo!" "Ha&circ;hle!" "Ha&circ;hle!!" "Ha&circ;lele!!!" (spelled phonetically) make the corral ring.  All these quick sounds are mingled with the bawling of the cows amid the pain-and-fright cries of the calves.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"The knife! the knife!"  "Some salt for this fox-tail-pierced eye!"  (Fox-tail is a dried sharp grass-head.)  "The brand! the brand!"  "El fiero!"  "Look out for the taurito!!"  "Bring the medicine here quickly!"  Such are the sounds.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Sometimes the riata misses its mark, and the vaquero hangs his head in shame.  Now he makes a great lass', and pride suffuses his face; although he tries to look unconscious, his attempt is a signal failure.  "Bravo!  Bravo!"</P>
104.sgm:<P>Then the patron or his major-domo calls out "Fix the saddles," and all dismount, and so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Anew fly the riatas, again and again come the "vivos" and the "bravos," until the vaqueros search in vain for a calf that has been branded.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The ends of the ears cut off had all been thrown into a box, and are now counted.  "How many, Francisco?"  "Tres cientos quinze, sen&tilde;or," that is, Three hundred and fifteen, sir.  "Muy bien," says the patron, as he enters the date and number in his stock book.  He himself had already counted the calves as they were cut out of the whole herd.</P>
104.sgm:<P>On the corral sides were perched the neighbors, watching, and criticising the points of the cattle.  Here, too, were several disappointed lasso-men, for whom there was not room in the corral.</P>
104.sgm:<P>When all is over a bite is taken under the broad branches of a sycamore, and then for the ride home over the rich green hills!  With hanging heads the wearied horses homeward go; but the vaqueros' tongues fly as fast as their riatas an hour ago.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Many are the tales told that night around the ranch-house fire.</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IN OUR CAN&tilde;ONS</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA is not so well watered as Minnesota and Massachusetts.  Its water-power is limited: its rivers and brooks are comparatively few, so that wherever water-courses are found in this land they are especially esteemed.  The gorges in the mountains, through which flow the brooks and streams, are called can&tilde;ons, or canyons; and the name "can&tilde;on" never falls upon a Californian's ear without causing thoughts of happy days in summer-time.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The loveliest place, to my mind, is a wooded can&tilde;on which opens to the sea, offering the crystal waters of its limpid brook as a libation to the spirit of the ocean; an offering brought from the high mountains, which near by gaze downward with wonder at the ocean's vastness; while the sea looks upward in admiration of the sierra's heights.  In such a can&tilde;on as this did Alessandro and Ramona encamp in their flight.</P>
104.sgm:<P>There are only a few miles on our Atlantic seaboard where the mountains come to meet the ocean, but in Southern California, seacoast and mountain resorts are attainable in one and the same locality.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>These can&tilde;ons that open to the beach have a large population of trees, flowers, and birds.  Broad-branching sycamores spread their shade over dozing flocks; their bright green leaves are fresh-looking when the summer fields are dry and brown,--a beneficent providence.  The sycamore was the tree of Zaccheus.  Do you remember the odd smell of its leaves?  And how in the arroyo the roots of the great sycamores hold boulders in their tight grasp, growing all about them?  In California can&tilde;ons and on hillsides is found the poison oak, which is in the West a scourge to a delicate skin, as is the poison ivy in the East.  The purpose of this scrub is a mystery: so are mosquitoes.  Do the following verses solve one mystery?</P>
104.sgm:<P>POISON OAK</P>
104.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>About six thousand years ago--<LB>You need not wonder how I know--<LB>Two oak-trees, living side by side,<LB>Near the mountains, afar the tide,<LB>Suffered abuse from a young oak,<LB>Who disrespect and scoffing spoke.<LB>They reprimanded all in vain;<LB>Patience was practiced by the twain,<LB>Until from heaven a Voice there came,<LB>And called the forest lad by name:<LB>"For thy neglect of Heaven's laws<LB>Vouchsafed to men and trees because<LB>'Tis right and truly ordered so,<LB>Henceforth thou shalt no greater grow;<LB>Thou, nor thy progeny below,<LB>The noble oaks, thy family;<LB>And thou shall be a disgraced tree,<LB>And poison-oak thy name will be."</HI>
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104.sgm:<P>Then the can&tilde;ons possess beautiful black alders, cottonwoods, and the sweet bay tree.  How happy were we when we first found some native maples, real maples!  But the live-oak is <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
104.sgm: tree <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
104.sgm:<P>As for flowers, the most typical are the great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Bird-life abounds here.  The great owls here abide.  Here Sir Kingfisher watches for his minnow and trout, catching more than the angler; just as the mountain lion kills more deer than the hunter.  This is the home of the humming-birds.  It seems hard to believe that the humming-bird was not known in Europe till Cortes found it in Mexico.  Yet so they say.  Its habitat is from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Once I found the rare nest of a titmouse in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:Rustic Can&tilde;on.  <HI REND="italics">He</HI>
104.sgm:<P>A brook has a soothing influence; the music of a riffle is good to put one to sleep.  A loud-voiced bee goes buzzing by and awakes your drooping lids.  A lazy tortoise slides off his rock into the little pool.  Curiosity makes you wide awake; your eyes follow his course in the translucent waters, and now, close by the brook edge, you study the secrets of this little inland sea.  Do you notice that great light-green beetle under water?  I call him the dog beetle, because with his forefeet he paws his way downward into the sand, and with his hind feet, wonderful to relate, kicks backward the sand pawed up by his forefeet.  See him now!  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Yes, the can&tilde;on is alive with life,<LB>There were butterflies about me,<LB>Blithe birds sang in the bowers,</HI>
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104.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">And insects, as an army,<LB>Were foraging the flowers.<LB>The brook has made more poets sing<LB>Than almost any other thing.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>In this coastland many brooks to-day are wending their way to the sea, smiling, happy, breaking into laughter as they reach the riffles.  The trees are bending over them with looks of love, for without the brook the tree would die.  The brookside grasses are nodding good-by as it goes along, for they, too, live by its moisture.  In its ceaseless journey it ever onward goes, its mission is never stopped; it is continually doing good to the trees and flowers, and kindly carrying a drink to the deep,--a good lesson to me.</P>
104.sgm:<P>I have not called our brooks by name, but one is so beautiful I should refer to it:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The brook La Chusa with its waters sweet,<LB>And brookside paths for eager feet,<LB>Implants in ev'ry weary city heart<LB>Freedom from care and tiresome art.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>In these can&tilde;ons the bandits of the early days made their camps, and here hid to evade capture.  At last, driven by losses and desperation, the Mexicans trailed the bandit Nicolas to his mountain fastness; and I know the precipice over which he leaped rather than be taken alive.  In the upper part of Las Tunias Can&tilde;on the infamous robber Vasquez made his headquarters.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It was in one of these can&tilde;ons that we found the Grotto Beautiful, where the stalactites hang <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Mineral springs are a feature of this neighborhood, and far up in the west fork of the Sequit, near the headwaters, is a lovely waterfall with a great mass of maidenhair fern fifteen feet wide, over which the water trickles.</P>
104.sgm:<P>If we follow the course of the stream upward, we pass many spots where we must tarry awhile; to look into the shaded pools, trout homes, watching the fish dart under the shelving rocks; or to examine the lovely fern-banks on the side of the can&tilde;on where the sun rarely shines; to study some stalagmitic accretions, or to laugh at a gray squirrel as he gracefully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Up here the water seems sweeter to the taste.  How many places there are that invite one to stop and drink!  See that miniature waterfall!  If we stand on some rocks in the brook below it, our chest rests against the flat boulder over which the fall leaps, and our lips are just in place to drink from the pool above.</P>
104.sgm:<P>By and by in our winding way we see another pool we cannot pass, so, bending low, I drink from my woodland chalice, the brooklet; it is studded and jeweled with bright agates and stones of various colors.  To slake my thirst the mountain water runs down into my mouth.  And such water! flavored by ferns, by water grasses, and aromatic roots, just enough of every ingredient, God's own distillation!</P>
104.sgm:<P>How oft on summer days have I gone to a certain spring, unknown to others, and restored my energy and endurance.  The wild flowers grow by its gracious banks and drop their ripened honey into it to make it sweet.  Sweetwater, I call the spring, and of it he who drinks would drink again.  Indeed, I think so much of this spring that I believe it has a commercial value, and if you stop buying my book, I think <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:that to make a living I will bottle it and sell it for a table water.  You will know it by the following verse on the label, to help, not hinder, the sale of a delightful draught from the hills:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Whence come I?<LB>Hastening down the mountain-side,<LB>Where the green ferns love to hide,<LB>Underneath the sycamore shade,<LB>Through the can&tilde;on's grassy glade,<LB>Thence came I.</HI>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A MORNING DRIVE</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>"WELL, comrade, do you feel sufficiently rested after your long overland journey to take a twenty-mile drive this morning?"</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Yes, indeed, I am more than myself.  This Ponce de Leon air renews my youth."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Permit me, then, to give you a local synonym for happiness.  It is this,--a pair of strong bay horses in a light Concord wagon that `talks,' which you are driving over a long stretch of beach on the hard sands, at the lower-low tide, exploring some of the wooded can&tilde;ons en route; then, passing over Point Duma, you will end the morning in Zumaland."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"I will allow the synonym, provided you put it to proof.  Let us go."</P>
104.sgm:<P>Through the sycamores, over the green valley lands, on toward the beach we went, the horses entering into the spirit of the occasion.  It is useless to say it was a day of days.  That almost goes without saying in Southern California.  The ground squirrels scampered off at our approach; the ground owls flew away in alarm, their great eyes flashing and glaring.  He who has seen one of these burrowing owls drop a courtesy has seen a very laughable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>As the wheels crushed down the sand embankment at the beach-side, and we found ourselves at Ocean's Edge, in admiration of the scene we stopped our horses.  Yonder, across the blue bay, a high mountain stood, proud with its crown of snow; to the southward, Catalina Island loomed up in splendor.  Behind us were the green fields and the brown mountains, while in either direction to our right or left there lay a long stretch of beach.  This coast offers inducements for the building of a road well-nigh equal to Italy's famous Cornice Road.  If Ocean Avenue were extended from Santa Monica to Hueneme, the days of coaching would come back, for the attractions of such a route would compel patronage.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But there are so many delightful drives here-about, it is sometimes as difficult to select your drive as to choose the prettiest color in a rainbow, or to hit a flying swallow, or to catch a piece of paper in a whirlwind.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Driving over the hard sand by the side of the sea is so exhilarating, inhaling the life-giving ozone as we go along!  Hear the cracking and popping of the kelp pods as the wheels break them!  Now the road leaves the beach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The derivation of the name of this succulent and valuable native grass will interest us.  " <HI REND="italics">Alfilar</HI>
104.sgm: is the Spanish word for pin, <HI REND="italics">alfilarilla</HI>
104.sgm: being the diminutive, that is, little pin.  Because of the resemblance of its seed spikes to small wooden pins, the Spaniards dubbed it <HI REND="italics">alfilarilla</HI>
104.sgm:.  The ll being nearly silent, the American, spelling by ear, writes it <HI REND="italics">alfilaria</HI>
104.sgm:, and this in turn has been shortened into <HI REND="italics">filaree</HI>
104.sgm:<P>The lively horses speed on, descending again to the beach, and after a bit of shore leave it, to carry us up into Soston Can&tilde;on, where the road winds among the sweet bays, the water oaks, and the black alders, until the nestling hamlet is seen by the side of the singing brook, where we stop for a drink from a mineral spring.  Back to the beach still again, only to leave it after a mile or so, to drive into the woodlands of Escondido Can&tilde;on, at whose head we come face to face with a great precipice of rock over which falls the Escondido Cataract.  <HI REND="italics">Escondido</HI>
104.sgm: means hidden, and this beautiful gem is indeed hidden <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Coming down the can&tilde;on the horses sniff the sea, and again we startle the sea fowl having a congress on the sands.  Bowling along we soon reach Duma anchorage, where the road leads up on to the rolling hills of Point Duma.  The broad, cattle-dotted pastures are spread before us.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Modest little road birds, just the color of the highway, are here feeding; while sailing high above us, the buzzards, coarse and vulgar, are scenting carrion.  But they deserve better adjectives; these useful birds devour all offensive dead flesh.  They are nature's scavengers.  In Charleston, South Carolina, I have seen them eating refuse that would otherwise taint the air.  There it is against the law to kill them.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Yes, friend, the gathering buzzards, circling high, proclaim the death of one of my herd.  Rarely have I seen an animal protecting its own dead.  Once I saw a steer driving off with his horns some buzzards that sought to light upon his dead comrade ox, prostrate by his side."</P>
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104.sgm:<P>The Bible becomes another book to a transplanted resident of Southern California: so many biblical references are here reproduced.  For instance, the prophet Jeremiah declared, by inspiration, that those who, at a particular time, turned from the living God and dwelt in wickedness, should not see burial, but that their bodies should be left to be devoured by vultures.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Up and down the hills the road leads us, until, passing the cactus circle, we come in view of the fair Zuma Valley below,--our destination.  We now pass across a mustard hillside, delighted with such decoration of the landscape, and one of us says:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The hills so bright with mustard,<LB>Aye! that's a sight to see;<LB>The woad-waxen of New England<LB>Would not so well please thee.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>What is that sound of warbling birds?  See, it is a flight of goldfinches.  They alight on the mustard branches, and many little fellows fastening to a single branch bend it low.</P>
104.sgm:<P>We are now on the brink of the grade, and, setting our brakes hard down, we descend into the Zumaland among the sycamores.</P>
104.sgm:<P>This vale the cattle and birds and wild flowers have pree&die;mpted.  We cannot jump their claims, but perhaps they will not forbid our resting here awhile.  Here the great-hearted meadow larks lift their voices high to heaven, almost bursting their yellow throats for joy.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Your feet can tread the most beautiful wildflower rugs.  Salmon-colored this one is, in that little nook amid the bushes.  Here are rugs of cream-cups, baby-blue-eyes, and of the gorgeous poppy, the prince of the foothills and the pride of the people.  The sheen of the poppy petal is almost as wonderful as the brilliancy of its color.  Its botanical name is Eschscholtzia.  This was bestowed upon it by the botanist Chamisso, in honor of his friend Dr. Eschscholtz, who came to America in 1816 with an exploring expedition, as its surgeon.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Now we unhitch our team, stake out our horses on the wild grasses, and seat ourselves under a noble old sycamore for--meditation?  Ah no, because a set of raucous-cawing crows disturb our peace.  There seems to be a colony of them overhead.  Yes, yes, noisy ones, we will leave; we should not have come here had we known that the memory of that last lark's song would be spoiled by your hoarse croaks.  We will go over there, hear a respectable bird sing, and rest under another tree.</P>
104.sgm:<P>This lovely Zumaland lies close beside the sea.  `T is the fairest valley of all those that grace these wonderlands.  High mesas rise on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:either side guarding this nature's shrine.  Great mountain crags form its background, while around the vale groves of branching sycamores, like sentinels, stand.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The trees a circle make about thy graciousness,<LB>As halo round a holy countenance.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Seen in February sunlight who shall dare say any other little valley can compare with this?  Who but God could have wrought its beauteous site and curving hills?  Fair Zumaland! the race of men whose tribal name was thine, cross-conquered, is gone forever.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Farewell, Zumaland, farewell!  Thy pristine beauty may soon vanish like the Zuma tribe.  Thy alfilaria will yield her ancient acres to the barley, and thy sycamore will fall to the woodman's hungry axe.  Thy site alone shall live to declare the greatness of thy virgin glory, as God, unhindered by the hand of man, created thee.  The mountains and the ocean defy man's effort; they will stand.  Blest is the man who has thus known thee,--as to-day.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Let not sadness seal thy smile, fair Zumaland.  'Tis beautiful to exist for beauty, but 'tis noble to live for usefulness.  So hail the axe, and bless the plough, whose share shall bruise thy brow, fair Zumaland.  Rejoice that thou couldst serve the chosen creatures of thy Creator, e'en at such a cost.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But no; on second thought, and through the advice of a friend, it seems best to keep Zuma <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:as a park, and to tell the axe and plough to keep off the sycamore and alfilaria.  So you can come, kind reader, and see it as it is, at your convenience.  Zuma! to be in thy presence makes one happy; it makes one feel like singing,--nay, it makes one sing:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>God grant that peace may ever be<LB>In Zumaland beside the sea.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>With a lingering farewell, we leave Zumaland.  The wheels, themselves reluctant to depart, again turn, and we are homeward bound.  And it was well we left when we did; for majestic thunderheads were creeping up from behind the mountains, and before we got home we had a race with a rain cloud; the forewarning cloudlets had sent their shadows across the growing barley fields.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Soon the blue smoke rising from the home chimney was a welcome sight.  It told of cheerful faces, glowing firesides, and good cheer within.  Blessed is the man who has another to toil for his welfare and strive for his love, even as he toils and strives for her.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>So a God-speed to the husband, God-speed to the wife;<LB>May they live ever happy to the end of their life.</HI>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>DESOLATION AND CHARITY</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>THE DRY YEAR</P>
104.sgm:<P>"GOOD-MORNING, neighbor; what think you of the weather?  Have you noticed the malva curling up this early?  That is a <HI REND="italics">good</HI>
104.sgm: sign for a <HI REND="italics">bad</HI>
104.sgm:<P>"Yes, comrade, it is a dry year this time, sure enough.  No more rains of any account this year."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Have you enough feed to carry your stock through?"</P>
104.sgm:<P>"No, I fear not.  I shall sell my calves, steers, and old cows, and try to make it with the balance."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"How is your corn coming on?"</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Pretty small, I tell you; if I get a tenth of a crop I shall feel content."</P>
104.sgm:<P>Such conversations precede the bitter experiences of the long, dry months that follow a great lack of winter rains.  There was a dry time in 1863, another in 1877, and in 1897 there was a great drought.  In November, 1863, there was a regular downpour, and it did not rain again until November, 1864; and in consequence, dead cattle covered the ground from Monterey to Southern California.  Abel Stearns' losses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Alas! alas! the dry year is upon us.  The very air seems oppressed and oppressing.  It is a battle to feel cheerful when Nature is sad.  One's nervous system loses its elasticity, and it is hard to do vigorous work.  Indeed, this may be the effect of the mind upon the body: the mind being burdened with distress, the body responds sympathetically.  The sombre fields look sad and discouraged.  The wild flowers are not "in tune," but lie late, sleeping silently in the seeds; the poppy fields are silent and sad, though next year they will awake in their glory.  The cows, with mournful pity, look upon their shrunken-sided calves; the mothers eat even the leaves, but alas! they make but little milk.  The goats drop their young before time, in the foothills, for lack of nourishment to support their growth.  Dejection is on every side.  Even the good spirit of the blue jay seems lacking, under the relentless skies.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In this "day of grief and desperate sorrow," what shall we do but trust in God?  Our cattle and horses have death before them.  The little lambs lie dead about the corral and on the hills, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Men are discouraged.  Those without living faith cry, "Woe! woe!"  And many are the prayers that ascend to heaven--"O Lord, send rain"--from lips which in good seasons forget to praise Him for the showers.  A dry year makes men think of God.  At such a time you can know who are Christians indeed; for such cry not, "Woe, woe," but, "His will be done."  They say God sends the dry years for some wise purpose; perhaps because men have failed to fulfill his ancient law, that every seventh <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Yes, when the dry breath of the north wind curls up the slight herbage, and hope would seem to leave his heart, our hero stops, and sings, "In some way or other the Lord will provide; God will raise up some means to deliver his children who have loved Him."  So, when the barley comes up and the fields put on a tinge of green only to wither away into uselessness, still <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Word came from Ventura to-day that a man up the valley had shot all his range horses rather than see them die, for he could not sell them.  Another rancher, with a flock of seven thousand sheep, has found it necessary to kill two thousand young lambs, in order to save the lives of the mother sheep.  They are taking horses to the soap-works, and selling them at two dollars and a half.  The hide is worth a dollar and a half, the tail fifty cents, and the balance is valuable for soap and land dressing.  Some cannot pay their interest, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>In Little Bear Valley a band of fifteen hundred sheep has been abandoned by the owners, because they had no feed.  In some places the oak-trees were cut down to let the cattle browse off the branches and moss.  Oh, the soil is so dry.  In vain do we dig down for water.  There is no dew on the morning ground.  The morning grass burns with fire, for there is no moisture in the air to make dew.  When the clouds come there is no rain in them.  Happy and wise is the man who has settled by a water-course, who owns a never failing spring, or whose wind-mill is above real water-bearing ground.  The streams never were so low.  They sink before they reach the sea.  The very ocean bewails his ungratified thirst.  Truly, water, thou art king, with full power of awakening the apparent dead.  In another way art thou the emblem of truth; for as Christ, the King, possesses awakening power, so dost thou over the waiting seeds.</P>
104.sgm:<P>California who hast known a dry year, fail not to read Jeremiah xiv. 3-6, and for further peace of mind and counsel do not forget to read Jeremiah xiv. 22, Isaiah lviii. II, and Habakkuk iii. 17, 18.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Many laborers stand idle in the market-place, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>But, kind reader, even dry years come to an end.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Some day the clouds will surely gather,<LB>And you will want your green umbrella."</HI>
104.sgm:<P>See, the clouds are getting heavy! the rain has come.  The precious drops are diamonds in value.  "God has not forgotten us," the Christian cries; and with sullen glee the unbeliever examines his gang-plurgh.</P>
104.sgm:<P>No one who has not lived through the long summer and autumn California months can understand how welcome the first rains are.  How eagerly the ranchmen scan the skies and note the wind!  The air becomes charged with vital electricity.  The storm breaks upon a willing people.  The trees bend to the breeze and toss their happy heads.  One can almost see the thirsty soil look up to the sky with smiles of gratitude.  The dust flies in anger because its reign has ended.  Its reign is dead!  Long live the rain!</P>
104.sgm:<P>THE MOUNTAIN FIRE</P>
104.sgm:<P>In September comes the danger from mountain fires.  This applies not to the valley men, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Crackle! crackle! burns the brush.  "It is only going to burn over a few acres,"  Satan whispers to the criminal.  Crackle! crackle!  But now the terrific wind assumes control of the blaze, and, with a swift-sweeping rush, the fire speeds onward in its deadly course.  The wind and the fire race as for life.  The deer, the birds, the quail, and the rabbits, in an agony of fright, fly to escape death, too often in vain.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The fire has now leaped into his neighbor's lands.  The cattle, seeing the flame from afar, as if by intuition run for the ocean beach or some safe place.  The horses, unlike the cattle, stand trembling, as if awed by the danger, and sometimes are rooted to the spot until a horseman drives them away to safety.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But the flames do not stop.  The death wind has three days to blow, and does not dream of ceasing.  To the farmers and the mountaineers the vibrating air is sounding the death knell of their hopes.  Fling open the gates <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>As soon as the heat will permit he goes back to his own once smiling farm.  Now the fields and pastures are black in death.  His house, his hay, his improvements and fencing are no more.  The saddened family, too bereaved to cry, start down the mountain-side in search of food and shelter.  And this man is but one of many.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Oh, for the power to write a Ramona book to arouse sentiment against our forest fires!  What legislator will frame a prohibitory law against thus firing the brush?  How great ought the prison penalty to be!  These fires <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The unfortunate farmer descends the slopes to the foothills.  On his way he sees the mountain quail, the little birds, the mountain rats and coons, the snakes and badgers, dead on the ground.  They met their Pompeii in that dreadful flame.  Further down he comes upon a band of his horses, their hair singed, and now the tears come with manly flow; his spirit breaks as he beholds a herd of his cattle bunched together on a blackened hilltop, their eyes distressed.  Can anything appeal more strongly to the sympathies?</P>
104.sgm:<P>THE ASSOCIATED CHARITY</P>
104.sgm:<P>The dry year and the mountain fire just about ruined one of the settlers on a government claim.  But he had friends.  From far and near they gathered together, acting upon a suggestion of a mountain saint, and each was requested to bring something for a woodland feast in the great sycamore grove.  Besides this, each one was asked to give a dollar towards a purse to be presented to the unfortunate family, to help them get a new start.  Moreover, it was pleasantly agreed that the recipients should organize a like benefit for the next man burned out; thus all feeling of being an object of charity was removed.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The day was delilghtful; the grove was in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>There was much good-natured pleasantry, the most memorable being the bringing of two live ducks in a gunny sack, and their conditional presentation to a young man who had been blind from his birth.  He was to have the ducks if he could, by feeling, guess the contents of the sack.  He was a bright lad, and when he felt the broad bills of the ducks,--"Ducks!" he exclaimed, and thus won the prize.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Oh, yes, it was a great day, and everybody was happy, except a few who could not make the course of true love run smooth, and the one man who once <HI REND="italics">tried</HI>
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104.sgm:<P>But before harnessing up, resolutions were passed, without a dissenting voice, that it was a great success, and when the wagons were leaving the grove you could hear naught else but happy calls of "Come and see us," "Come and see us."</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IN THE SADDLE</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>A RIDE IN THE HILLS</P>
104.sgm:<P>BICYCLES are well enough for Kansas and for city life, but for mountainous regions, for the ups and downs of out-of-door life in Southern California, the Mexican-broken saddle horse should ever be given the palm.  When I compare the merits of my Columbia and my Geronimo, the intelligence and vivacity of the latter are arguments away over and above all that can be said in support of the former.  It is true the bicycle does more muscular good; but, on the other hand, the horse keeps one out of the office much longer.  As the battle seems to some so even, we will compromise and agree to take half our outings in the saddle, and half on the saddle.  But as this chapter deals with life in the saddle I must get into it at once,--into the chapter, I mean.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"It's a fine day for a ride in the hills.  What say you?  Will you add pleasure to my work by accompanying me on my rounds, for I have to count the cattle to-day?  And it is no small task to learn if any out of several hundred are missing.  You will see a typical stretch of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Soon we were up high in the hills, following an old Indian trail, now loping over the mesa, now riding up the can&tilde;on bridle-paths, across the barrancas, over to another point of vantage where we could spy the cattle.  Entering the number of each bunch in our stock book, now and then dismounting to re-cinch and put the saddles again in place on the horses' backs, talking many talks about this and that, once picking up some fine specimens of reddish sparkling crystals, admiring the views in countless variety as we rode, we at last came to the highest point in our day's route.  And here a great and marvelous sight was to be seen.  The fog clouds had been drifting in from the sea, and were now a solid mass below us, entirely obscuring the ocean, whose surf, however, we could distinctly hear through the fog, beating on the beach.  Above us was clear sunshine.  Below was the great fog bank; it looked like a floor of snow, or a mighty sea of soft snow, or great areas of fluffy cotton batting.  Just then, with startling suddenness, we heard a steamer's fog whistle, the ship not far away, yet undiscernible.</P>
104.sgm:<P>And soon, wind driven, the land breeze blew the fog away and it went out to sea, its edge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>On and on we rode, through picturesque can&tilde;ons, under the oaks, until we emerged on fair Soston's peak.  From this summit are matchless marine and mountain views.  We said there was nothing human about that vista; it was divine.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Ah, Italy, thou hast a rival!" said John Harvard, as we took a parting glance from the saddle at these scenes and out over the sweeping sea.</P>
104.sgm:<P>That day we saw three deer; and later several coyotes who were devouring a dead sheep.  The shepherd's dog often drives the coyotes away from their prey; but once an encounter occurred at a distance from Jules, the herder; there was a sharp fight, and the valuable dog was badly bitten in the neck.  If you should see him to-day you would find his collar covered with sharp steel spikes.  Now, Mr. Coyote, come on!  You shall not kill my twenty-dollar Peter,--not in this land of inventions.</P>
104.sgm:<P>As we rode we saw a coyote catch a squirrel, which could have escaped had it been more watchful.  Our dogs chased the coyote, who, doubling on the dogs, escaped into his den.  God has given every creature enemies, and also a way of escape.  Mankind's enemies are numerous, Satan in myriad forms; but in Christ we can escape,--we can escape into the cleft <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Coyote is from the Aztec <HI REND="italics">coyotl</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Now the trail leads downward over a mountain-side.  It is a well worn cattle trail.  As a rule, if you want to lay out a road up on to a high mesa follow the cattle trail.  The cattle are fine civil engineers.  We pass into the brush at the base of the hill; a cottontail disturbs the sage and is gone almost before he comes in sight.  Look out!  Halt!  There's a rattlesnake!  Hear him sing with his tail.  He is getting ready to spring.  Look out for your horse's legs!</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Is there any gold in these mountains?"</P>
104.sgm:<P>"No, I think not; the formation is not right for gold.  It has been well prospected," I replied.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Tell me the story of California gold."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"On the authority of a pioneer of 1841, Mr. I. L. Given, Don Abel Stearns had in that year a quart bottle full of gold dust, which was obtained at the San Fernando diggings.  Other statements point to the fact that as early as 1833 gold was found in the Los Angeles and Santa Clara valleys.  Still another statement is that the San Fernando placers were found by Francisco Lopez, in 1842; while he was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"I have Captain Sutter's machete,"  I continued; "it is a finely engraved Toledo blade, his name, Captain Sutter, being thereon.  His medals, silver cup, sabre, and correspondence from several of our civil war generals, when they were yet captains, I have also.  What a pity it is there is no fireproof museum building in Los Angeles,--there are so many treasures of the past that should be preserved, and be teaching and interesting the people of the present.  The Portland Vase of the Aztecs is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"But before I leave the story of our gold, I should tell you two things that are of interest.  The first gold ever taken East from California arrived in Boston on May 7, 1849, on the ship Sophia Walker, Captain Wiswell.  She carried about $80,000 in gold.  The second fact is this: it is said the largest nugget of gold ever discovered in the United States was one found at Carson Hill, Calaveras County, in 1851.  It was worth $43,534."</P>
104.sgm:<P>Now, lest I lead astray some eager youth, let me close my gold remarks by stating that it has been said that more money has been spent for supplies, wages, and time in hunting for gold than ever was taken out of the treasure boxes of nature.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"But come, companion, let us dismount and eat of our bread and olives, while the horses rest and enjoy these mountain grasses."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"My appetite consents."</P>
104.sgm:<P>So we uncinch and remove the saddles and bridles.  With our riatas we tether the horses out on the untouched burr clover and bunch grass.  Soon they cool their sweating backs by rolling on the inviting herbage.</P>
104.sgm:<P>After luncheon we rest awhile for our siesta; a gentle calm steals o'er us; we are too happy to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Blessed is the man who, alike in the serenity of such surroundings and amid the murmur of distresses, has such control over his mind that he can dismiss all crowding, warring thoughts, and, listening to the sounds of nature, be in complete harmony with them.  Happier he who can not only do this, but also cast all his care on Christ and thus commune with nature's God.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The horses' drowsy heads drooped in their contentment; it was too bad to arouse them again for work.  But soon we were in the saddle and away.  The motion was made, seconded, and carried that before continuing the count we should go up the can&tilde;on and make a cabin call on the old mountaineer, who lived hard by, the bells of whose cows we could now hear, each answering unto each.</P>
104.sgm:<P>THE OLD MOUNTAINEER</P>
104.sgm:<P>He welcomed us to his hearth-stone, a great flat stone of prodigious size, and his especial pride.  When I said, "That makes a fine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Within the cabin was the usual mountaineer's bricabrac,--antlers, a dried road-runner's skin, a quail's egg, and the tanned hide of a rattlesnake, with rattles, on a shelf in the corner.  He said he always kept the fat of the rattlesnake, as it was "way up" for his rheumatism.  Then on a little table was an ancient stone mortar full of agates, fossils, shells, and flint arrow-points.  All these treasures were as dear to his heart as are the Se&grave;vres vase and the Hawthorne bowl to the aristocrat.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In reply to an interrogation, he told us those dried-looking things hanging up by the fireplace were the galls of polecats, which he sold to the Chinese physicians for half a dollar apiece.  His nose nerves were strong enough to enable him to pursue this calling.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>He was kindly communicative, and was enthusiastic over his spring, whose waters were soft enough, he said, to properly cook beans; much Southern California water is not fit to cook beans mellow.  All sorts of wisdom passed his lips.  Now he was saying, "Everything that grows down plant in the dark of the moon, everything that grows up plant in the light of the moon;" and then again, "Boys, when you hunt in the last quarter of the moon remember the deer feed late into the morning.  Then's the show to get a shot."</P>
104.sgm:<P>He told us his shoes cost him ten dollars a year, his clothes ten, and his living expenses were five dollars a month.  "I can live finely on two hundred a year.  Boots are the worst, I have to wear out so many.  I eat fifty pounds of beans a year, but I raise those."  His swine thrived on the wild oak acorns and the indigenous roots thereabout.</P>
104.sgm:<P>To dwell on a high mountain gives one a certain sense of elation that is invigorating.  This you could feel in his presence.  I have seen his face beam with true trapper's anticipation as he went out to tend his fox traps.  He was lithe and strong; he could climb a mountain as easily as does a shadow.  He knew all the various mountain bird voices.  Where the quail hid, and where the rarest wild flowers loved to grow, he knew.  He was familiar with all the by-trails through the dense chaparral.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>When he heard the voices of the night, the calling of the flying wild geese, he thought, Ah, a storm is in progress in a distant land.  In the morning he would say, "The storm will come; the geese said so.  Besides, the smoke goes not far above the chimney top."</P>
104.sgm:<P>He remembered how Andrew Sublett in 1854 had his arm broken by a grizzly bear in the Malibu Can&tilde;on.</P>
104.sgm:<P>He brought to mind how his old colored neighbor across the range had been maltreated by the settlers, on account of his color; how they set fire to his cabin, hoping thus to terrorize him and to drive him from the country; how some thought the real purpose was that some men with white faces and black hearts wanted to jump his claim after they had got rid of him.  But this was not the material the good old gentleman was constructed of, and, as a shame to his tormentors, he put up a sign <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Once he helped me kill a lynx that I had run down on horseback, and had driven under an old sycamore log.  Having no gun I did not know what to do, but my good friend, happening along, found a club, and, telling me to stand on one side, he struck him again and again, as the sharp-eyed lynx scowled and growled underneath the inclined log.  At last the fatal blow fell, and I have his hide, salt-and-ashes tanned, for a rug.</P>
104.sgm:<P>That day the conversation turned to rattlesnakes, and the old mountaineer told us this winter-fearing reptile's trail was always curved, while a gopher snake makes a straight track.  He knew the rattlesnake weed, of which the Mexicans make a pulp to bind on to snake-bite wounds.  He told us how the road-runner offers battle to the rattler; how "with caution he approaches his enemy, stretching one wing down as a shield and waits for the snake to strike.  The wing is thrown to catch the bite, and, as quick as a flash and before the snake can recover, the runner with unerring aim sends his long beak, hard as ivory, through the head of his antagonist."  This language is not mine, but Captain Lapeyre's.</P>
104.sgm:<P>For eight months and over the rattlesnake will live without food.  How good of God to have made this venomous serpent of a different <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"Come up to the fern pool," our host said; and we walked there, two hundred yards from his house.  Here was a sweet spring basin in a nest of ferns, with fresh green shrubs.  Its beauty was marred by a water dog gliding across its waters.  This water lizard seems out of place in beautiful Southern California, but of course he is not; in some way he has a mission.  All loveliness has a lack in it somewhere.  The repulsive water dog proves the rule that perfection is not found in earth's nature kingdom.  It awaits us above.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The long pipe-stem lizards sunned themselves near by, but they are not very harmful; they are so called because, if struck by a stick, their tails fly into as many pieces as a pipe stem when broken on the pavement.  The common little lizards are harmless, sometimes being even used for pets.  I do not like to recall the remembrance of a lady in Saint Augustine, Florida, I once knew, who had such a creature for a pet, feeding it regularly and taking it in her hand.  A Californian I have known who would catch them, put them on his shoulder, and let them run at will over his back.  These things are told to ward off fears of poison.  The big pipe-stem fellows, however, I will not vouch for.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>COMING HOME</P>
104.sgm:<P>Bidding adios to our good friend, we continued counting the cattle.  Riding over the sweet-smelling tar-weed flats is a delight peculiarly Californian.  The air was scented with the perfume of wild flowers.  We passed a field of wild coreopsis, so brilliant as to dazzle the eyes.  We gathered a bouquet of mountain flowers, wild peonies, Pacific buttercups, and native forget-me-nots, with a bunch of shooting-stars.  May the poet soon be born whose voice will be sweet enough to sing of the wild flowers of Southern California!</P>
104.sgm:<P>Some of these descriptions will seem strange to the winter visitor of Los Angeles.  He will say, "I stayed in Pasadena a whole winter and I never saw a pelican nor picked a chocolate lily."  Indeed?  Neither did I ever see a business block in the woods.  Tarry longer, stranger; come into the country, and know the land you live in.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Through tall reeds, eight feet high, their long feathery heads waving in the light wind, the trail took us.  Gay blue birds were flitting about, their color so blue that it seemed as if they had dipped in the sea on a day when it borrows its hue from the deep blue of the sky.  But now we are nearing home.</P>
104.sgm:<P>We ride down the green slopes of a landscape poetic; our task is done; the count is made.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>If thou dost love music, come with me some time to a high mesa on a sunny morning, and inhale with the birds the freshness of the recent rain-wet ground.  I will have a choir of a score of golden-breasted larks sing for you, just as they daily sing to the delight of the hills.  Presently you will hear a solo of a single lark's trill.  What do you think of that?  Even the wind stopped to listen, it was so beautiful.  See him as he turns in his flight and shows his gorgeous yellow breast, a burst of color.</P>
104.sgm:<P>When we took singing lessons we were told to open well our mouths.  I think the author of that advice must have seen a skylark singing, for the lark opens his bill so wide that, at times, we fear it will be dislocated.  Bird ability in music is wonderful.  The deep liquid notes of the blackbird's sunset song: ah! those lower throat tones of a bird's voice no instrument can approach.  What organ has a bird's warblenote stop?</P>
104.sgm:<P>We were going through the gate when my congenial companion said, "It has just occurred to me to wonder where the old mountaineer gets his annual ten dollars to pay for his boots."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Bees," I replied.  "He sells honey.  His hives were behind the hill in a clearing."</P>
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104.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>TWENTY-FOUR SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA HOURS</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>THE moonlit night has gone.  Now comes the mystic early dawn, when the moonlight merges into sunlight, and the sun subdues the moon, which, though conquered, slowly retreats.  The full moon is sinking away in the west, for it cannot bear the brightness of the glorious orb of day.  The planets come to the aid of the moon, but the sun, rejoicing as a giant to run his course, puts them all to flight.  Aurora's torch is kindled, and dawn is here!</P>
104.sgm:<P>'Tis almost sunrise.  Bright rays, heralds of the day, have, with the speed of light, announced the coming of the sun.  The day-dawn, rival of twilight in the estimation of poets, shows its glimmering myriad tones of color in the eastern sky.  The fair dawn gradually grows into day; the gradations are marked with changing colors.  A glow like a rainbow suffuses the earth's surface as it turns toward the sun; then the rose-colored sky is changed to a liquid yellow.  Soon the atmosphere becomes silvery and then pearl white, until finally the sun, shining above the horizon, ushers in the clear white daylight.  Over the mountains and over the sea the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The solemn stillness of the night is now broken by the birds' daybreak chorus.  Such a fine burst of welcoming applause in honor of the approaching Sun!  The orioles sing the loudest, and all the birds combine to make a jubilee that once heard is not forgotten.  Now comes fair morning.  The moring-glories on the trellis seek to second, in their silent way, the birds' welcome of the sun.  It is their morning worship.  The sun must have a happy life, since at every moment he is greeted in his course by the songs of millions of birds, as his rays first appear on that portion of the earth's surface on which they sing.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The mist rises from the grasses which glisten in the morning dew.  The blue kindling-smoke also arises from yonder cabin, offering incense to the acting source of life, God's deputy.  The sun is the poor man's alarm-clock.  About his door the larks now rehearse their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>From now till eventide, except at the noon hour, "fierce labor all subdues;" man and nature have their sleeves rolled up and their overalls on.  But the noontime is so restful here; after a good dinner the toiler rests himself on the ground, absorbing nature's narcotic.  Half asleep, he hardly hears the goat-bells tinkling on the distant hills, nor does he note how the raucous note of a passing crow puts a false tone into the harmony of the hour.  But habit is the toiler's master, and at one he awakes.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In the afternoon the quail coveys cautiously come out from their hiding in the brush shelters, and go forth to promenade and forage.  Hear them chatter away as they lead out into the world their inexperienced brood.  See their quick footsteps as they speed from bush to bush with "sudden sally."</P>
104.sgm:<P>This afternoon we are up on the mesa overlooking the valley and ocean, in the companionship of the mountains, waiting for the sun to set; watching for the picture the Creator will paint on the western sky.  The setting sun begins to shoot his slanting rays.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The evening star beams down its blessing.  'T is the sweet twilight hour.  Gradually come forth the stars, now triumphant over the sun.  Have you ever seen a star peeping over the ridge of a mountain, whose gaze seemed almost intelligent, as if it looked you through and through?  The quiet deer has come forth from the chaparral, and, scanning in precaution his feeding-places, eats towards the hidden spring.  The early evening mountain wind sings its gentle song to Twilight, and we rejoice that we live in a land where by day we breathe ocean's invigorating ozone, and by night the vivifying mountain air, rarefied and refreshing.  The Maker of the life-giving wind is now returning to the fields of the ocean the breezes which have been blowing landward from the sea all the day.</P>
104.sgm:<P>From his hollow tree the hoot-owl flies, and woe be unto the careless field-mouse to-night.  The mountain quail's call sounds distinct in the stillness of twilight.  It is a pretty sight to see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>On the rocks off the shore the shags stand in rows, roosting, and up the creek the husky crane goes cromping, seeking his night perch; as he flies he passes the swift-winged night hawk, who darts by him uncomfortably close.  The hawk with piercing cry salutes the approaching night.  In search of birds smaller than himself, he, coward, sails o'er the country, now skimming along the hillsides, now mounting to the ridges after prey.  As he flies along, the terrorized day birds, perching in the bushes for their night's rest, discern as if by instinct his coming.  They begin to utter cries of alarm, and the silent hillsides awake <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Now the cricket orchestra plays, while an occasional strident locust adds to the confusion of tongues made by frogs.  Amid the chirping of the crickets and the croakings of the frogs the great owl tries to imitate the cannon's sound in the anvil chorus.  A loud-voiced cricket seems to lead all the rest and set the tune, which proclaims the death of day.</P>
104.sgm:<P>At twilight a restful calm settles down on everything, as if nature was preparing to lose itself in slumberland.  All day-nature seems to pause and rest, except the flowers, which now best exhale their fragrance.  The after glow of twilight is most beautiful; sometimes a fair pink cloud is resting gently on the northern sky, a scene seraphic; sometimes at this hour the fog comes in from the sea like a coverlet, with which to enfold the hills for the night; sometimes the crescent moon makes serenity more serene.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Twilight is the hour when earth seems nearest heaven.  The summer twilight seems to hold one spell-bound, and it is then one can almost <HI REND="italics">feel</HI>
104.sgm: that God fills all space about one.  Children's minds are made receptive to the truth by the peaceful air and the solemn quiet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>In Southern California the summer twilight is especially delightful, even more so than in New England, because in the East, oftentimes, the great heat of the day extends into the evening; while by the Ocean of Peace, the twilight is just cool enough.  Then the children, relieved of the strain of the day, find themselves lively again, and happily flit about.  Watching for the evening star, he who discovers it claims it for his own.  The mother, erstwhile, sits contentedly by, playing sweet-voiced hymns on the autoharp, which was made for twilight; and the father notes down all this on a scrap of paper.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>And now has passed the twilight,<LB>Friend of both day and night;<LB>The evening star will fade away,<LB>Abashed at the moon's full light.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>The full round moon rises grandly over the mountain, and glorifies the valley.  It broods <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:over the scene like a benediction; it makes you think of the overshadowing of the Holy Ghost.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>As the evening deepens, the silver moon becomes golden;<LB>Now night wraps her robe about her charge.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>Sweet nature!  Blessed night! without thee we should perish; should the sun control thy sphere as well as day, no flowers would there be for us, no grain for our bread, nor herbage for our kine,--all would be parched.  Ay, God made the dark.  It is well to teach children the value of darkness, how their very life depends on it; and then China must have sunshine as well as we; we should not be selfish.</P>
104.sgm:<P>But think ye the night has no dwellers?  No activities?  No tragedies?  Ah! while most of nature sleeps, a part is awake.  Night is day for many!  Gather your cloak around you, the bats are about.  Living in the country soon removes dread of bats; "familiarity breeds contempt;" it is the same with horses' hoofs and cows' horns.  The bats alone of the mammals have wings.  They are great destroyers of our big mole crickets.  Badgers and wild cats go out into the night on their depredations, though they cringe with fear at the sight of a puma's track.  Ah! you have no idea about what is going on every night while you are asleep.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Nature lives on nature, and created things eat creatures.  No sooner have the rays of the retreating sun sought other lands to bless, than out from countless holes in rock and earth, cliff <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>How I would like to borrow an owl's eyes for just one night!  What vantage views of the nocturnal battle for bread I should then see!  What revelations would be given of how even owls carry away poultry, and how the rabbits spoil so much of what honest hours have planted!  At night you would see the polecat running along the kelp-line on the beach, searching for dead sea fowl and fishes cast ashore by the tide, holding high his plume&acute;d tail when surprised.  Hark,--the raccoon's distant call!  The coyote bays the moon on yonder ridge.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Have you ever seen a cotton-wool, mackerel sky on a moonlight night?  Is it not wonderfully beautiful?  Do you remember how your new-mowed hay field absorbed a silvery sheen from the moon's rays?  The moonrise over the mountains is a majestic sight.  How many phases of beauty the moon has!  The crescent with its attendant star is loveliness; at the moon's first coming it just peeps at our part of the world, bashful, showing only the outlines <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>How fair are the fields of starland!  The shining constellations, stationed by immutable law, their vigil keep, and guard the sleeping sons of men.  Did you ever watch the heavens steadfastly at one point?  At first you see only certain stars; a moment more you see other stars, before unseen, which are farther away; we can thus easily believe there may be still other stars in space thereabout, yet more distant, but which are invisible.  Thus we can increase our faith in the fact of the existence of the heavenly land,--heaven.  It is far above us, and so far as to be unseen save by the spiritual eye, which is only a function of the soul.  What credit would there be if we could actually behold heaven and hell?  We should be good through constant fear.  God wants us to fear the consequences of his displeasure, but wishes us also to serve Him through love.  If our physical eyes could see beyond the stars we should all get to heaven, but like the fallen, disobedient angel Lucifer, there would be many who would not have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>We say the moon is so many million miles from our earth.  By imagining the circumference of a circle, far greater than that of which the distance from the earth to the moon is the radius, we can easily grasp the idea that the greatness of heaven is certainly vast enough to provide eternal dwelling-space for millions of the redeemed, and for all yet so to be.  It may be also for the redeemed of other planets beside our own.  This drawing will explain these words.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The Lord bade mankind pray, "Our Father who art in Heaven."  Men were so to pray in Boston and Canton, in London and Los Angeles.  At every point men were to look upward, it seems, and feel that heaven was above their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>To increase thy faith, go out into a summer night, and, reclining, look upward to the dome of the heavens.  Meditate upon the passage of thy redeemed soul, if it so be thou hast been born again, when, at the death of thy body, thy spirit flies through space, leaving behind all corruptible things, past the planets, onward, nearing heaven, till its mansion is safely reached.  Ah, 't is a clear summer's night, that will lead the willing mind heavenward.</P>
104.sgm:<P>So have passed away the most of our twenty-four Southern California hours.  Now come the still small hours of the night-time.  There is a time when all is quiet, and the night voices cease.  Even night sleeps.  The crickets are silent, and the frogs are hushed.  Silence reigns.  A slight seismic tremor is felt; it shows while most of nature slumbers, God keeps a part awake.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The watch says it is time to close our chapter.  I hope to-morrow will be a pleasant day.</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE MOUNTAIN CLIMB</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>"OVER the hills the sun is climbing; soon on us it will be shining.  Comrade, let us be boys again, and taking the hint from the sun, suppose we climb yonder high summit, stopping at the Pool of Silence on the way.  You know from that peak you can look over into the valleys on the other side of the range and actually see the old Santa Barbara stage road."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Agreed; I am for the climb."</P>
104.sgm:<P>As we mounted to the first foot-hills, we began to get a glimpse of the grander view awaiting us from the summit.  Even here a lovely landscape greeted our delighted eyes.  The air was commencing to be rarefied.  In the hills one has such confidence in the atmosphere--its purity is unquestioned.  We had passed the herds of grazing sheep; we had watched the Mexican boy, who, like David, by his sling directed the devious ways of the flock through the hills; casting a stone to the right of them if he wished them to go to the left, and <HI REND="italics">vice versa</HI>
104.sgm:<P>It is remarkable how hungry for company <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>We had heard the woodman's axe far on the mountain-side.  We had rested at the base of an abrupt rise in the trail, stretching ourselves out on the strengthening ground.  A certain strength and power or force can be absorbed from the ground.  Go to a sunny hillside, and on the roadway cut around it, whose upper bank shall be a slant of at least four feet, <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
104.sgm:<P>In these first foot-hills we discovered a paradise for the botanist.  It was the only place in which I had found the yellow mariposa lilies, and red, purple and white ones too, of the same species.  I know a bank whereon grows the rare chocolate lily, bell-shaped.  Sometime I will show it to you, and you can get some seeds.  Here were wild gardens of blue <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"But come, comrade, we must imitate the sun and keep climbing."  This we did amidst a change of flowers and shrubs.  The buttonsage and the yerba buena now gave forth their odors with aromatic pungency when crushed in the hands.  The wild pea and morning-glory ran over the ground, and the bright red mountain pinks jeweled our paths.  Level with our faces were the blossoms of the mountain lilac, the fairest of all.  We were now getting into the chaparral.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The trail now led downward, and passing through thick brush descended to a little can&tilde;on, whence it again ascended over great boulders and a jungle of rocks, until we came to a most beautiful spot,--a mountain spring, o'ershaded by a spreading live-oak, in a natural reservoir in the rock.  Its outlet was a little stream trickling down over a miniature precipice, at the base of which you could stand and look into the pool, almost even with your eyes.  Ferns grew about its sides, and birds and bees sang its praises.  When we first found it, we said, What shall we call it?  Long-life, Hygeia, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:Seek-no-further, came into our minds, but we finally were satisfied with no name save the Pool of Silence; and so it is called to this day, as the historian would say.  It is silent in the midst of the stillness and silence of the high hills.  One can almost <HI REND="italics">feel</HI>
104.sgm:<P>But the water itself!  Civilization is all right.  It is very convenient, when it rains, to congratulate ourselves as we hold a glass under the faucet and drink therefrom the piped water; but methinks a drink from a shady spring untouched by man, whose waters are tinged with the flavor of the fallen oak leaf, and the roots of the ferns growing by its side, together with a dozen other constituents, combine to produce a taste which is <HI REND="italics">sui generis</HI>
104.sgm:<P>We drank a last draught, and took to the trail, stooping to examine a puma's startling track.  The way leads upward again, through the chaparral.  From its dark green a bright blue jay comes into rare relief.  How often have I hidden in the chaparral to rest, no eye to see me save that of God.  The dark green mountain chaparral jungles are a never-to-be-forgotten feature of California mountain life.  The Raymond excursionist does not find them in his itinerary.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>Leaving these shadowy places, the trail emerges on to a rocky slope.  Now the semprevivas adorn the rocky sides of the mount; the Spanish bayonets present arms as we pass along, their sharp spines jealously guarding their precious blossoms.  The sempre-viva leaves are full of water, and on many a long mountain tramp has the wayfarer bitten and sucked them for moisture, when water was otherwise unattainable.  Here grows the little caravalla plant, the dried leaves of which the mountain Mexicans use as a substitute for tea.  Above us, high in air, sails a mighty condor, rarely seen in this country.  On yon sharp rock the white-headed eagle watches from his lofty perch.  About here, we leave the trail to get a luncheon of wild honey from the cliffs near by, out of the bee caves; and wonder whether John the Baptist so secured his food in Palestine.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Now the trail is hard to discern; it seems to come to an end in a little can&tilde;on cul-de-sac; but wait,--ah, here it is again, all right.  See, it makes off at an angle up that slope; just as in life our way seems to be hemmed in with difficulties, when lo, God opens up another path, and away we go rejoicing, and ashamed that we doubted at all.  Faith is no faith that believes only after seeing.  Up leads the trail, steeper and steeper; and here we are at the summit.  And what a surprise!  Why, here is a high <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>I began to say "What a lot of feed there is here for my goats--" when my friend stopped me short with the words, "Do not spoil the poetry of the scene by such a prose remark as that."  How few people know how to combine poetry and common sense in their lives!  And yet I like him ever so much.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Here we are, where the great hills lift high their heads.  Over there are the Sierra Madre or Mother Mountains.  Was not that a happy thought, to name the main range as being the mother of the lower mountains?  A fine old Spanish idea!  By the way, the highest mountain in Southern California is Grayback, in the San Bernardino Range, eleven thousand seven hundred and twenty-five feet in altitude.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The mesa on the summit table-land is a beautiful place; wild flowers like these heights.  I have seen a great space all red, white, and blue; red with blossoms of Indian tassels, white with mariposa lilies, and blue with lupin.  Truly, a patriotic garden.  But to my mind a Southern California sight quite as beautiful is a mountain-side glorified with the wild lilac in full blue bloom.  Would you expect to find a spring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Refreshed, we went back to the highest height and sat down, resting.  "Does it seem," I said to my comrade, "that these great bulwarks of strength, these mountains, could ever be shaken in earthquakes?  Sometimes we feel seismic tremors at our home way down below, in the valley.  And yet I suppose these great mountains bend to the will of God, just as willingly as the little valleys.  It is a lesson in humility.  From these heights what a place to meditate on eschatology!  What a vision from here would be the coming of the Lord!  What a point of view from which to see the tumults <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"Comrade, those three high peaks over yonder are named Conviction, Conversion, and Salvation Summits."</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CONCERNING OUR SEASONS</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>"I DO not like Southern California, because the seasons are not distinctly marked," said an Eastern misanthrope one day.  "There is too much sameness in your climate," the same party continued.  "True," I replied; "we have no frozen water pipes, no March slush, no interruptions from elementary causes to travel, to telegraphing, or to commerce, save a few washouts of a day; we have no Oklahoma cyclones, our barns are not commonly struck by lightning, our citizens are not prostrated by sunstroke in August, our hats are not smashed in by falling ice from high buildings in winter thaws; but all the same we have a very reasonable climate.  And as to `sameness,' which you allege, why, our seasons have great variety.  At the risk of telling you what you now know, let me remind you of a few of the changing conditions which concern our land as the months go by."</P>
104.sgm:<P>In Southern California we have decided seasons.  Instead of white we have green; and while you Bostonians are rejoicing in green fields, ours are brown.  Delightful as is the Southern California coast summer, yet still <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Behold, now, the yearly California miracle.  The first rains have come,--and gone.  The whole country is suddenly changed from brown to green.  Hope springs up with the seeds.  The brown unsightly earth was strewn with unseen seeds.  A copious rainfall comes, and lo! the ground is wondrously green again.  The thirsty soil opens its longing throat and great draughts of water pour down into its vitals.  Cheered is the ranchman's heart.  Well may he laugh.  Confidence grows apace with the wild grasses.  The thought of the harvest makes the task of ploughing ahead of him seem light.  So does the thought of bringing in our sheaves to the Father make the toils and trials of life light.  Yes, what a relief to the farmer's heart are the first rains.  How his smile comes back, how his blood circulates with renewed vigor; what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The stock run about the fields with glee, although the large horses look askance at the gang plough.  Cleansed is the ground, the sea refreshed, and the air purified.  The skies, too, are relieved of their heavy burden,--the water-weighted clouds which hovered about for days before the rain.  Faith in the future is the motto seen on every side.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Do you remember, in January, when the chaparral is in bloom on the foot-hills, how silvery and gray and green it looks in the slanting sunlight? all those shades are commingled.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is in the same month that the voice of the ploughman, urging on his horses in a neighboring field, is borne by a favoring breeze to his neighbor's ears, and encourages him in his own task; for noon is near and the team lags.  He and they are thinking about their dinner.  The ploughman notices and knows the various wild grasses that are just springing up; he recognizes the individuality of each little leaf, he knows what it will be.  "Welcome, red-tops!  Glad to see you again, 'filaree!"  The yielding sod of springtime is a pleasant cushion to the feet.</P>
104.sgm:<P>What an annual event it is when in March the orioles appear from some far country, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Now are the salutations of the lark most splendid.  Now comes the happy event when one of the family asserts to have seen the first blue-bird of the year.  Now the quail abandon their community custom, and go off two by two to set about their house-building.  Now begin to fly back to their early summer homes, to Goose Lake, and the farther northern feeding fields away beyond, great numbers of shag and sea-fowl.  If they could only talk, how much we could learn from their Arctic experiences!  If some one could only discover the Rosetta stone of the shag tongue!</P>
104.sgm:<P>One April day, in a roadside rain-water pool we saw a merry company of wriggling pollywogs, that were just changing into frogs.  It was laughable to see them, half one, half the other.  Soon the pollywog tail and skin will drop off, and, feet coming out, he will graduate from the swimming school and become henceforth a hopper and a croaker.  It is one of the many miracles of nature's mysteries.</P>
104.sgm:<P>In this month, the green of the herbage and the green of the deciduous trees meet and greet each other for one short span.  All the rest of the year they live apart.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>Now the large colonies of butterflies leave the coastlands,--I suppose, for the city gardens or the mountain ranges; they return again to winter.</P>
104.sgm:<P>One of the most interesting sights in our sycamore grove was the annual conclave of hundreds of thousands of large brown butterflies.  Within a few days they seem to gather from nowhere, and in countless numbers attach themselves to the hanging boughs and leaves of the sycamore trees.  They are so numerous that they will make a tree look dark brown in color, and they are so closely crowded together that they resemble festoons suspended from the trees.  During the forenoon hours they will leave the trees for feeding, and the air will be actually alive with butterflies.  When spring comes, as if by magic they depart as suddenly as they came, evidently remembering the beautiful trysting-place through instinct, as selected for them perhaps for centuries.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The serene fields of springtime are now receiving their last showers.  Late in April falls "the grasshopper rain," as the Mexicans say.  It is so called because after its advent the warm spring sun sweats the eggs deposited on the herbage, and thence the grasshoppers soon come forth, a thousand strong in each locality.</P>
104.sgm:<P>These Southern California growing spring days, when the trees are starting in leaf,--can you not remember them?  Not only can you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Fog effects in May are very beautiful.  Sometimes the fog will drift in from the sea over the foot-hills like a gauzy veil, delicately covering the landscape.  At times you see its loveliness distinctly, and again, the fog-mist coming between you and the vista of hill-lands, an indistinctness results which seems like that of a dream.  Just now the sun bursting through the fog-drift revealed the silvery tops of the olive orchard.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The coming in of the fog from the ocean on a hot August day is as a benediction from Heaven.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Now the golden ears of corn decorate the porch, and bear witness of autumn.  The green of the lofty sycamores has turned to russet, and their falling leaves will blanket the tender grasses, against the cold nights ahead.  It is pleasant now to lean over the pasture gate, and let the country sun pour its genial warmth on your back.</P>
104.sgm:<P>At this season begin to blow the Santa Annas, the fierce autumn wind storms,--dreaded, to be sure, but zephyrs, compared with cyclones.  Three days they blow, and often precede a rain.  They are a blessing in disguise, for beside their sanitary, microbe-dispelling effects, they also drive the dormant seeds hither and thither, to distribute them equally on the surface of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>In November fly to our shores the snipe, the ducks and geese from the northlands, furnishing a large food supply, sent yearly by a kind Providence to Southern California.  Now fall the quail before the swift-flying shot.  The olive tree, a commissariat in itself, gives its bounty.  The <HI REND="italics">citrus</HI>
104.sgm:<P>The Chinese say, "Give a man rice, oil, and vinegar, and he has all his system needs for food."  Not a farmer of ours but can have the equivalent of these, and how much more!  With wheat, corn or barley he has his cereal, his olive-trees provide his oil, and his vineyard or apple orchard his vinegar.  If he lives by the sea, fish may be his; he can have a pig in the pen, and many a thrifty mountaineer makes his poultry produce pay for his groceries.  And <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>It is the edge of winter.  Can Southern Californians celebrate Thanksgiving with gratitude, when the barn is full of sweet-smelling hay, and seed-barley is on hand, with great battlements of corded stove-wood, sufficient flour, two noble sacks of beans, a barrel of brined pork in the storeroom, and plenty of fish in the sea, while our seine is freshly dipped in tanning?</P>
104.sgm:<P>Now comes winter, the time of short days.  December twenty-first is here, the shortest day.  It has always seemed to me that the New Year ought to begin with December twenty-second, when the days commence to grow in length.</P>
104.sgm:<P>When the winter comes, the seals, true to time, seek our pleasant waters, and you find them resting on rocks and sleeping with one eye open, lest both be closed forever by the cruel bullet.  I wonder where the calendar is printed that tells fish and fowl when to seek other waters or other climate.  Who teaches them to read it?</P>
104.sgm:<P>It is Christmastide.  The bearberry, our substitute for English holly, has been gathered out on the hills, and the mantel is prettily trimmed, while a wreath of it hangs over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>At the close of day the parents are telling the children that the joy and gifts of Christmas Day would never have been had not God sent Christ from heaven to pilot us there, that we might escape hell.</P>
104.sgm:<P>It has been a great day.  There was the basket to fill and carry on horseback to the neighbor whose stores were scant.  Then there was the dear flag of our beloved country to raise on its staff, and the boys saluted it with cheers and several tigers as it beautified the breeze which unfolded it.  In the afternoon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Ah, Merry Christmas Day! would that thy joy might be known the world around,--as it will be after Shiloh comes!</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE STORY HOUR</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>AROUND THE HEARTH<LB>Draw down the shade, shut out the night,<LB>Let in the day of candlelight.<LB>Come round the fire, or take a book;<LB>Be grateful for this ingle nook.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>WHAT an advantage it is to have plenty of firewood about; oak-trees growing while you sleep.  Look at that oaken back-log, which has been growing fourscore years for you; now on the fire there, it will be consumed in three hours,--just as the three-year-old ox, having developed month by month, is slaughtered and is all gone in a few days.  The strength of the oak and of the ox have been converted into human strength.  It is a good thing to look ahead to old age, and to see there is plenty of young firewood growing up on the farm against those days.</P>
104.sgm:<P>I like a Southern California ranch that has oaks and olives on it: they express so much.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The oak and the olive<LB>Here grow with great ease;<LB>The one standing for strength,<LB>The other for peace.</HI>
104.sgm:<P>But returning to our back-log: what is really <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>THE STORY HOUR</P>
104.sgm:<P>One night the strength of the storm without seemed to bring us all into close sympathy.  The power of God in the gale bound our hearts to heaven and harmony.  One of the boys said, as he put three sticks of buckthorn on the fire:--</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Father, tell us a story, <HI REND="italics">please</HI>
104.sgm:<P>"Yes, I will," the latter answered, "on condition that you each tell me one, and that each shall relate histories instead of stories,--reminiscences of the past."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Agreed, and all right," came the voice chorus of affirmatives; "signed, sealed, and about to be delivered."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Well," said the father, after he had been silently collecting all the five-dollar thoughts which concerned by-gone days, "how would this arrangement do for the evening's entertainment?  Suppose I apportion to each of you and to myself a theme for talk."</P>
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104.sgm:<P>All said, "'T is well."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Therefore, to you, mother, I will assign as a subject some notable remembrances of our humble past.  To thee, my son, I give the animal kingdom.  For thee, daughter, I choose the birds; tell us of them and their past relations with us.  While to thee, namesake, I intrust the ludicrous, and I will help you out in your recollections.  It will do us good to laugh tonight.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Mother, let thy pleasant voice make us forget the storm without.  We await thee."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"The most notable remembrances that come to my mind on such short notice are these,--perhaps inspired by the storm, for they chiefly deal with robbers.  The fury of the gale sounds as if burglars were seeking entrance through the windows.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Once upon a time, children, there came to the ranch just at dusk a man, driving an iron-gray horse in a two-wheeled cart.  He said he wished to go to Hueneme.  Thy father told him there was no wagon road there.  He replied he would go as far as he could on wheels, then leave his cart, and proceed on horseback over the mountain trail.  He asked to stay the night.  Thy father, discerning the man's bad character, gave him sleeping accommodations in Friendship Flat, which was a loft in the calf shed reserved for tramps.  The next morning he sought early to leave the ranch without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:saying or paying anything.  But a locked gate intercepted his way, and he had to come back in front of the house.  He gave us all a sullen look, and passed on up the grade.  Thy father, (how, I know not) exclaimed, `That man, I believe, is the Ontario bank robber who robbed that bank the other day, and whom the sheriff wants.'  Well, that man did as he said, reached Hueneme, and went back to Los Angeles, from whence he dug up the gold he had cached, and then abode at a hotel, where, not being able to restrain his love of finery and jewelry, he was arrested on suspicion from his abundance of gold, and was eventually convicted.  When we saw in `The Times,' children, the man's portrait, and found out <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
104.sgm:<P>"Perhaps," the mother continued, "I should narrate how once we were almost swallowed up in the black bog, when we drove across it to get a duck that was wounded.  We had not then known the Octopus-like tendency of that mire.  We barely lived to tell this tale.  Or, also, about a grand meteor we once saw in 1894.  This marvelous meteor fell in the early twilight, when it was still quite light.  After the red ball fell a large trail was left in the sky for half an hour.  The color of the trail was white.  Some said the color was caused by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"But," the same voice said, "I was to talk about robbers.  One morning, very early, children, thy father and I had to go to Los Angeles.  Three miles from home, down the coast road, we were just driving past a clump of sumacs, when a man sprang out of the brush, and with raised sand-bag, drew himself up to strike us from behind.  It so happened, miraculously, that thy father, who had the whip in his hand, whipped up the team at that very moment, and the horses, answering to his bidding, quickly carried us out of danger.  We have never since ceased to thank God for our deliverance.  Had it not been for that providential fall of the whip, the sand-bagger of our hold-up might have had all our nickels, which were few, and have ended our hopes, which were many."</P>
104.sgm:<P>Thereupon, the children embraced their mother; and soon the father said in judicial tones, "My son, reveal the thoughts of <HI REND="italics">thy</HI>
104.sgm:<P>"Well," said the son, "since to me it is given to relate memories of the animal kingdom, and since the theme has begun in a domestic way, I may be limited to dogs and cats, chiefly.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"Mother, we could never forget dear old Tiger, our house cat!  Do you remember how he surreptitiously got into the dining-room at supper-time, and lay down on the electric foot-bell under the table, and how the maid came in to answer the bell?  Ah! how sorrowful we were when that very wicked, half-wild black cat would come down from the hill behind the house, and pounce upon poor Tiger, and how we children used to run to his rescue and drive off the marauder.  I recollect how Christian, the dairy boy, set the box trap one night to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"That was too bad when we lost that great gopher-expert, the cat sent us from The Palms.  Do you remember how in the night I heard its cries, and how, the next morning, we found it killed by some wild animal?  How badly we felt.  And how we did rejoice at the possibility of the death of its slayer, when our neighbor the next day rode up the avenue with a large wild cat or lynx he had shot, and was bringing as a present to us boys.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"We used to enjoy the little angora kids so much, father, when you first bought the band of goats.  That was an amusing sight to see the little angora who got his head into an old coffee-pot and ran blindly, hither and thither, trying to extricate himself.  Do you remember how brother, by accident, called the herder Philistine instead of Celestin, his right name?  And how, when one of the silken-haired goats got lost on the mountain, a man saw it high up on a pichaco, and sent his trained dog after it?  You know the dog caught the goat, holding it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"Happy memories of happy days," the mother said; and then the master of ceremonies spoke.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Daughter, the birds are bidding thee tell something of their past that played a part of our past."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Then I obey.  I will pass by the finding of the poor dead humming-bird in the rose garden, the capture of the wounded eagle, the orioles that built their nest from the ridgepole of our tent, the queer little owl found in the hollow of the oak-tree when it was felled, and how afterward he stared at us out of his screened box.  I will merely mention, as analagous to my theme, the discovery in Sweetwater Can&tilde;on of an old bird's-nest in a bush, which had been pree&die;mpted by a mouse for his home.  Ignorant of its contents we were about to remove it for our nest collection when, presto! out jumped the mouse.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"I remember, father, that day you rescued a poor road-runner from the cruel talons of a hawk; how, though wounded, you brought him home, and we nursed him to life, and let him go because he was a benefactor bird,--an enemy of snakes.  We examined his plumage, his long green tail feathers, his purple crest, the red scalp at the back of his head, his long beak, and his wonderfully made feet, the talons of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"But you know mother and I have been making a study of hawks.  Shall I not tell you somewhat of them?  You know how last year our dovecote was besieged by hawks to the death of four pigeons, and how you, brother, took down the `old reliable' and shot both the cruel hawks.  Alas! the slow-flying doves became a ready prey to the wind-swift hawks.  Our cote lost many tenants.  The dove-colored feathers were sadly numerous here and there.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"We wonder exceedingly at a hovering hawk; as he motionless holds himself high in the air and watches for booty while he scans his surroundings, until, discerning something, with oblique flight he darts downward and strikes with fierce strength the neck of a passing bird, his purpose being to break it, and then devour the bird in a convenient tree.  Only yesterday, under the ford oak the fallen feathers strewn upon the ground revealed a recent tragedy.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>"And how arrow-like they pierce the air; on pinions swift and strong these prey birds speed along, flying one hundred and fifty miles an hour.  The rifleball can easily overtake the hawk, since it goes a thousand miles an hour.  But what a slow coach the bullet is when we read that electricity moves 288,000 miles in a small fraction of an hour."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Why, sister, how much you know," the boys said.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"But what I shall never forget, father," the daughter continued, "was your simile concerning a hawk, one Sabbath afternoon.  We were watching some great hawks flying, scooping low along the hillsides after ground squirrels.  One way they flew their shadows betrayed their presence to the scattering squirrels, so that the hawks could not make a success of their toil.  You know you likened this to anything unkind or wrong that we might do, acting as a shadow on our lives and preventing us from true success.  You told us how such a shadow could be obliterated by the power and ability of Christ, but that the only safe way was to always fly in such a righteous direction that no shadow would fall to our injury or defeat."</P>
104.sgm:<P>"What a memory you have, daughter; I shall be very careful what I say hereafter in your hearing.  Well, my namesake, there are only two left to end the programme.  Wilt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The son began, saying that, as his subject was given him, he was at the mercy of circumstances, and would have to say that something was ludicrous in Southern California even if it was only to mention the odd little bow of a ground owl, the queerness of a baby horned-toad, or the remarkable assertion of a tenderfoot in the Pullman that Southern California was noted for its real-estate liars and its small stoves.</P>
104.sgm:<P>The lad went on, "You know once, going to San Francisco, a traveling acquaintance told us there was a certain can&tilde;on near Mojave called `Hat Can&tilde;on.'  It is near the line of the railway.  A man dwells there who makes a superior living from the sale of hats.  First, be it known, Mojave is the home of the wind.  There Boreas was born.  The wind blows as nowhere else.  Wind-mills there might generate enough electricity to run Niagara Falls.  Well, this hat-merchant gathers up all the hats that blow off the heads of the passengers who put their heads out of the car windows, and then sells them to the passengers on the next train, bound the other way, who had lost <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
104.sgm: hats in a similar manner.  This the wily dealer repeats <HI REND="italics">ad infinitum</HI>
104.sgm:.  He will doubtless soon sell out his interest to an English company, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"But to come back to our family.  Do you remember how we used to give Don Quixote, the donkey, peppermints to eat, to his and our delight, and how he brayed for more?  Do you remember, father, how that pet deer, with a red-flannel collar, overtook you on a mountain trail in the north and so surprised you when you turned to see whose footstep it was behind you?  And how you were awakened one night by a great buzzing in the room, and thought a bat had flown in through the open window, and how, lighting the candle, you found to your amusement the visitor was only a big, brown butterfly?  And how, when you bought the Saint David colt of the Mexican, in reply to your inquiry he said its name was Geronimo?  You know you then said, `Geronimo?  Where have I heard that name?  I believe it is Spanish for Jerusalem;' and how, afterward, you remembered it was the name of the renegade Apache chief?  You said you noticed Jose&acute; hung his head a little when he told you the horse's name.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"It always seems so ludicrous when I recall a certain neighbor's story about a stranger who `put up' with him over night in his cabin.  In the evening the party promised to give his host, for his kindness, an interest in a mine.  In the morning our neighbor discovered the stranger <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:had stolen his revolver.  The thief had two hours' start, but old Nelly was soon loping her best in pursuit.  When at last overtaken, the stranger refused to give up the weapon, and even declared he had not taken it.  Discretion was a good part of valor, our neighbor thought, and he returned to his can&tilde;on.  Now comes the amusing part of the story.  In relating this narrative our friend would always end his remarks by earnestly saying, `Would you believe it! to this day that <HI REND="italics">man</HI>
104.sgm:<P>"You all surely recollect our experience with those citified staghounds we bought in Los Angeles; how, when they got homesick, they ran down to the Southern Pacific train and jumped into the baggage car; and how, once when they pursued some rabbits, they got so winded we had to bring them home in the carriage for fear of heart failure.  City dogs, indeed!</P>
104.sgm:<P>"You know that night the deputy-sheriff and the United States customs officer came to the ranch, armed to the teeth with magazine shot-guns, and went up to the Point to be ready to seize an expected importation of smuggled Chinamen; how their errand was in vain, save in the discovery of a supposed smugglers' cave under the cliffs by the sea; how the cave contained a cooking-outfit, blankets, oil clothing, and a dark lantern!  Well do I remember the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>"But, to conclude, I must mention the monkey and the pruning-knife.  How, when we lived in Los Angeles, a neighbor's pet monkey came into our carpenter shop, and finding an open pruning-knife, experimented therewith,--to his detriment; inasmuch as he shut down the blade of the said knife upon his fingers so that he himself could not extricate them.  His face was a picture of bewilderment and misery.  We gave the alarm across the street, and his owner got him out of his trouble.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>"Now, father, it is your turn.  Can you excel that?"</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Why, certainly, my friends.  I am going to tell you a story about a Redondo <HI REND="italics">mephitis</HI>
104.sgm:.  You know <HI REND="italics">mephitis</HI>
104.sgm: is the aristocratic name of a polecat.  Well, once upon a time, when we lived by the side of the fair, pebble-jeweled beach at Redondo we occupied a two-story house on the bluff.  We had been annoyed by polecats climbing up into the attic.  The clothing closets in the rooms upstairs had ventilating apertures in their ceilings, and no screens had been put on them.  One fine morning down dropped an inquisitive polecat--no, <HI REND="italics">mephitis</HI>
104.sgm: --into my closet.  I heard him fall, and, peeking in, shuddered at the thought of my predicament.  What could I do?  Force was out of the question.  Diplomacy would be a good thing, but how could I employ it?  A butterfly collector who was visiting us solved the problem.  The said collector exclaimed, `I know how; chloroform him!  I have some.'  So we tied a string about a vial of chloroform, very, <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
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104.sgm:<P>"Ah me, how can I ever relate the rest?</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Well, looking out of the window an hour after my return to the house I beheld, to my amazement, the said mephitis walking casually up the slope from the place in which I had put him, and--would you believe it?--he steered for our front gate, came into the yard, got under the porch, and soon was wending his audible way up to the attic, where he and his friends made themselves obnoxiously at home until we departed to our winter quarters at Los Angeles.  They may be there to this day!"</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Father, the palm is thine," my son shouted.  "That story should go to the `Youth's Companion.'"</P>
104.sgm:<P>And so the evening ended, amid much appreciation of the ludicrous side of life's experiences.</P>
104.sgm:<P>"Good-night, my bairns.  God guard you till the morning."</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE STORM</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>THE storm was closing in on us.  We felt the sullen stillness which oft precedes a gale.  Phalanxes of the mighty armed hosts of cloudland advanced across the skies; here some awful Krupp thunderhead menaced the position of other clouds; there some little ones sped like cavalry to the focal point of the battle in high air; while, yonder, dense ranks of serried clouds covered the heavenly space; until finally the various forces of the opposing cloud armies were well drawn up, and then came the great attack.  The lightning flashed, the thunderhead revealed its power like thundering artillery, while the mass of cloud-troops fired down countless volleys of hailstones.  Please accept the preceding photograph of the great storm of January 16, 1895.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Before the storm broke, the scudding clouds fled as if to escape the fury of the approaching gale.  A fierce wind foretold the battle; all nature seemed to cower in fear.  The gulls shrieked their alarm.  Fright was in the air.  The surf beat angrily on the shore and the foam rose high.  The trees bent before the blast and the birds lay low.  The sharp gusts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The gale was now in command; we thanked God for a strong house.  The storm-king spoke down the chimney.  The gutters talked.  The house trembled, and an instinctive prayer went upward for ships and men at sea.  Ay, `t was a whistling gale,--a pier-breaker!</P>
104.sgm:<P>The terrible velocity and fierceness of that winter wind, accompanied by its shrill shriek, struck terror to the heart, as it beat against the home.  The house trembled, but did not collapse, and the fitful gusts, baffled, flew forward to other battles.  Ah! it was a good thing to have God that night.  The noise was terrific; the blinds blew off.  The darkness was illumined by frequent flashes of lightning, and in the midst of the storm's fury, with a hissing sound, a thunderbolt fell near by.  It was good to know one's sins forgiven that night.  The furious wind seemed to be driving the artillery away, and its rattling reverberations against the mountain walls died off in the distance, when suddenly, as if it had forgotten something, the wind shifted, and again the storm was upon us in increased power, stalking among the high peaks above the foothills.  Again fell the hail, and the windows almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>When at last the storm abated we went out on the porch.  The air was still ploughed by the rapid-falling rain.  We heard the sea resounding against the rocks.  We left the tempest outside and sought the cheer within.  The spirit of the storm seemed to speak, using the chimney as his trumpet, "Cross not the ford to-morrow morn.  The river's king am I for five successive days.  Cross not, lest horse and man together tangled in the turbid flow shall find their death."</P>
104.sgm:<P>The next morning there came forth the glorious California sunshine, and from the freshly anointed pastures rose the earth vapor.  How glad the thirsty ground was to drink in the pelting rains; one can almost feel as it must have felt.  All nature was aglow with gladness.</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE MENTAL CITY</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>DID you ever, in your mind, build a town, or lay out a city site on land you owned?  It is very interesting,--even if it should not come true.  About the sitting-room table did your household ever consider that matter, and all agree that John should lead the Christian life of the place, and Douglas should be president of the bank, the best bank of course, and Ruth should teach the school, and every one should have a place?  Open sin would be kept out, and happiness would be found in ever so many places beside the dictionary; and lots would be worth so much, and so many at such a price would amount to--dear me, what a prodigious sum!  What great good you could do with it!</P>
104.sgm:<P>And then we discussed our city's name.  What a task it was, to be sure; what merriment the various propositions caused!</P>
104.sgm:<P>The business member of the group wished our city to be called Port Pasadena, Sunnyside, Summershore, Wonderland, Happyland, Safehaven, Glenhaven, Resthaven, Safeport, Seabright, Stillwater, Bestbay, Billowbay, Bluewavebay, or Stirling.  "Take your choice," said he.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>The poet wanted the name to be either Foothill Park, Mountainside Park or Can&tilde;onside Park, Runningbrook, Deerbrook, Seabrae or Braemar, Edgewood, Midocean, Contentment, Peacedale, Waverley, Serenity, Diadem, or Switzerland.  I should have said we had two or three town-sites, in different localities; hence the great variety of descriptive names.  We had not decided which city we would build first, don't you see?</P>
104.sgm:<P>The practical member said, "Oh, let us name it something that means something; let us call it Enterprise or Industry or Recreation."</P>
104.sgm:<P>Hereupon the poet sighed.</P>
104.sgm:<P>And he sighed again when the facetious member remarked, "Why don't you call it Sunshine or Seek-no-further, or best of all, Climate, and then you'll catch the Eastern crowd."</P>
104.sgm:<P>To counteract the uncalled-for levity on the part of this last destroyer of sentiment the classical scholar then said, "Now to give it true dignity its cognomen should be Hygeia Park, Ozone, or Aristos."</P>
104.sgm:<P>Then the member who had been studying Spanish upspoke and said, "It seems to me we should call it Gloriosa or Marina."</P>
104.sgm:<P>The historian slowly said, "Would not history suggest the name Zumaland?"</P>
104.sgm:<P>There was but one more to speak, and he was the student of truth.  Said he, "Among so many it is hard to choose, but there are still <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>If you have never laid out a town in your mind, begin now.  You will never regret it.  Even if the trolley never comes your way, you will say to yourself, "Well, how I did enjoy my mental city in anticipation; the realization could never have been so joyous, so it is all right that the plough still turns up my city's streets, and that those great, tall office buildings are still only castles in the air."</P>
104.sgm:<P>By all means build a mental city.  That is a privilege peculiarly Californian.</P>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ON POINT DUMA</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>THE marine freshness of the air at Point Duma is rarely found elsewhere.  The atmosphere is so heavily charged with ozone as to make it a valuable tonic and strength-builder.  Seen from the high foothills to the north this headland looks like a great sea turtle, its head toward the sea.  Its lofty white stratified cliffs, the hard, low-tide sands at its feet, and the quietness of its anchorage make it an attractive locality, while the wooded can&tilde;on of Ramirez makes a beautiful park close by, wherein are hidden lovely vistas, most unexpected.</P>
104.sgm:<P>To this anchorage old Captain Phineas Banning used to come to load his vessels with oak wood from the can&tilde;on to be taken to San Pedro.  The oaks were topped for firewood, and in the interim have regained their growth.  This bay is sometimes known as Banning's Harbor.  A small breakwater here constructed would make a crowning glory to the other attractions.  Deep, unruffled water is near the shore, and no dredging would be needed.  Indeed, it is now a safe harbor at all times save when a southeaster blows, which is the rarest of our gales.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Tell me, O Point Duma, of the sights thou <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>Tell me, Point Duma, hast thou heard the tales of the silent smugglers?  Even now whispers of smuggling debase the air.  Yesterday I saw an ill-looking craft, under the cover of the drifting fog, crawling up the coast.  Her blackish sails looked piratical.  Last night well armed detectives stayed the night with us, asking for shelter.  They were spying out her landing-place and her movements.  The presence of smugglers gives an unpleasant feeling in the air.  Did you see those tracks on the beach at daybreak?  Did you notice where they led?</P>
104.sgm:<P>Passing vessels used to throw overboard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>The Chinese opium-dealers in Los Angeles were the final recipients of this accursed drug.  To escape detection, opium has been brought into Los Angeles inside of jew-fish, in trunks checked as clothing, hidden in planks made hollow to receive it, and in countless ways.  It used to be very difficult to secure the offenders, owing to alleged connivance in high places.  And, when it is remembered that such cunning was resorted to, that bananas on the bunches and oranges in the box were found stuffed with opium, we cannot wonder that the smuggler has so often escaped.  It was estimated that one "ring" in San Francisco had defrauded the government out of four million dollars' worth of duties on opium.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Yes, Point Duma, if thou couldst only speak thou couldst tell us if the claims of the pre-Scandinavian discovery of our Pacific coast by the Japanese are true.  Long, long before Cabrillo came, it is believed shipwrecked Asiatics cut inscriptions on the rocks at Sinaloa, on the west coast of Mexico.  The Chinese also claim <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>But let us leave these echoes of the past, though without the fact the echo could not probably have come; and let us go to that fact which is all written down in good old Anglo-Saxon print,--the fact that Sir Francis Drake of England sailed along the California coast in 1579, and that he landed not far from San Francisco and held Christian services on June 24, 1579, Francis Fletcher being the Church of England priest.  To commemorate this first Christian meeting in our beloved California there has recently been erected by the Episcopal diocese of northern California a massive cross, rising fifty-five feet from the ground, the largest in the world.  The funds for its construction came chiefly from George W. Childs, the Philadelphia philanthropist.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Sir Francis Drake is believed to have been the first Englishman to stand upon the coast of California.  But to Cabrillo, the Portuguese, belongs the honor of having first discovered the coast of California in 1542; he it was who named Cape Mendocino after the Spanish viceroy, de Mendoza, in whose service he was.  Although Cabrillo was the first to sail up the coast of California, yet he was not its discoverer; that honor belongs to Hernando de Alarcon, who, in 1540, first came to California by the way of the Colorado River.</P>
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104.sgm:<P>It is interesting to know the origin of the word "California."  The name was first given, in a Spanish romantic story, to an imaginary island abounding in gold and precious stones.  The story was by many people regarded as fact; and, when what is now Lower California was discovered by members of the Cortez expedition, they imagined they were on an island, and as it was apparently very rich, they gave it the name "California."</P>
104.sgm:<P>Ah!  Point Duma, thou hast seen history written on the seas, Asiatic, aboriginal, European, American, and only to-day did we together see a fleet of junk-rigged Chinese fishing craft, bound southward; surely a return to first principles and a repetition of history.</P>
104.sgm:<P>What is before thee, Duma?  When will the electric lighthouse be built on thy flint foundations, enabling thee to see by night?  When will the steam fog-horn disturb thy slumber, and the bell buoys tinkle in the dark?  Will not the iron roadway yet compass they point or pierce thy heart by cruel tunnel?  Will the iron horse be contented with steam, or will he feed on electricity, or air compressed?  Art thou a prophet?</P>
104.sgm:<P>Whence thy name, Duma?</P>
104.sgm:<P>"My name should be spelled Zuma.  It is so called from an Indian tribe whose bodies at my base await the resurrection.  Once these seas were not so desolate as when, before the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<P>So "Zuma" is thy name.  Methinks in some way it may be allied to Moctezuma the Aztec.  He, tradition said, came from the north; some say the Rio Grande Valley.  Thy name is the termination of <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
104.sgm:<P>What wonder and terror would posses the mind of an aborigine, could he now, like Rip Van Winkle, awake to this marvelous metamorphosis!  What would he think when he saw the mighty steamships blackening the skies with their smoking energy, and landing at the southern piers many a cold-driven seeker of sunshine!  What would he say makes electricity?  It is the transition from drawing fire <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
104.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
104.sgm:<P>Up the coast, towards Hueneme, there was once a very powerful chief of the Mogu tribe.  Other tribes of the Southern California coast paid tribute to him, and at regular intervals a congress of the Southern California coast tribes would be held in his domain, a part of which was what is now the Guadalasca Rancho.  He was truly the Grand Mogul of Point Mogu.  Tradition says he would furnish supplies to all the delegates of the tribes during the days set apart for the congress, but after that time they had to look after their own commissary department.</P>
104.sgm:<BACK><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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104.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE LAST WORD</HEAD>
104.sgm:<P>I HAVE not mentioned in these chapters things that are generally known; and I have purposely omitted facts commonly stated in books on Southern California, its products, its resorts and comparative climatology.  What gain would it be to read what one already knows?  Instead I have sought to seek out and to describe matters not so often written about and yet distinctly Californian.  It is possible that while reading the previous pages memories of Mount Lowe, of Catalina, and of Coronado have floated across the mind like the mist which floats over the foothills in the spring; if this book has awakened such memories, happy am I.</P>
104.sgm:<P>Kind reader, I hope we may meet again; and, the next time, in a book of <HI REND="italics">your</HI>
104.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
104.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
104.sgm:<P>THE RIVERSIDE PRESS</P>
104.sgm:<P>CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS, U. S. A.</P>
104.sgm:<P>ELECTROTYPED AND PRINTED BY</P>
104.sgm:<P>H. O. HOUGHTON AND CO.</P>
105.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-105</TITLE>
105.sgm:<TITLE>A truthful woman in southern California; by Kate Sanborn: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
105.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
105.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
105.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
105.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
105.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
105.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
105.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-1067</LCCN>
105.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
105.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>34855</COPYRIGHT>
105.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">BY THE SAME AUTHOR</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Adopting an Abandoned Farm.</P>
105.sgm:<P>16mo.  Boards, 50 cents.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"`Adopting an Abandoned Farm' has as much laugh to the square inch as any book I have read this many a day."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Sunday Herald</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Miss Kate Sanborn has made a name and place for herself beside the immortal Sam Slick, and has made Gooseville, Connecticut, as illustrious as Slickville in Onion County, of the same State."-- <HI REND="italics">The Critic</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"She scores a point in every paragraph."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Interior</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Full of wit under cover, and sly little hits at the manifold peculiarities of human nature."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Home Journal</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"If any one wants an hour's entertainment for a warm sunny day on the piazza, or a cold wet day by a log fire, this is the book that will furnish it."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Observer</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"We all know the charming lecturer and the clever writer, a perfect Rothschild in quotation and historic allusions, but Kate Sanborn the farmer is a new and extremely pleasant acquaintance.  Her manner of description is inimitable.  Each smallest incident becomes under her eloquent pen of vital interest and importance."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Times</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"She has unwittingly answered a much-vexed question while writing a truly delightful book."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Pilot</HI>
105.sgm:<P>New York: D. APPLETON &amp; CO., 1, 3, &amp; 5 Bond Street.</P>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>A TRUTHFUL WOMAN</P>
105.sgm:<P>IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</P>
105.sgm:<P>BY</P>
105.sgm:<P>KATE SANBORN</P>
105.sgm:<P>AUTHOR OF ADOPTING AN ABANDONED FARM, ETC.</P>
105.sgm:<P>NEW YORK</P>
105.sgm:<P>D. APPLETON AND COMPANY</P>
105.sgm:<P>1893</P>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1893,</P>
105.sgm:<P>BY D. APPLETON AND COMPANY.</P>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>I.--HINTS FOR THE JOURNEY<HSEP>1<LB>II.--AT CORONADO BEACH<HSEP>7<LB>III.--SAN DIEGO<HSEP>20<LB>IV.--EN ROUTE TO LOS ANGELES<HSEP>50<LB>V.--LOS ANGELES AND ROUND ABOUT<HSEP>57<LB>VI.--PASADENA<HSEP>64<LB>VII.--CAMPING ON MOUNT WILSON<HSEP>80<LB>VIII.--CATCHING UP ON THE KITE-SHAPED TRACK<HSEP>96<LB>IX.--RIVERSIDE<HSEP>113<LB>X.--A LESSON ON THE TRAIN<HSEP>123<LB>XI.--SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>137<LB>XII.--HER CITY AND COUNTY<HSEP>151<LB>XIII.--IN GALA DRESS<HSEP>165<LB>XIV.--AU REVOIR<HSEP>184</P>
105.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>1</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>HINTS FOR THE JOURNEY.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The typical Forty-niner, in alluring dreams, grips the Golden Fleece.<LB>"The <HI REND="italics">fin-de-sie&grave;cle</HI>
105.sgm: Argonaut, in Pullman train, flees the Cold and Grip.<LB>"<HI REND="italics">En Sol y la Sombra</HI>
105.sgm:<P>YES, as California is.  I resolve neither to soar into romance nor drop into poetry (as even Chicago drummers do here), nor to idealize nor quote too many prodigious stories, but to write such a book as I needed to read before leaving my "Abandoned Farm," "Gooseville," Mass.  For I have discovered that many other travellers are as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>So let me say that California has not a tropical, but a semi-tropical climate, and you need the same clothing for almost every month that is found necessary and comfortable in New York or Chicago during the winter.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Bring fur capes, heavy wraps, simple woolen dresses for morning and outdoor life; and unless rolling in wealth, pack as little as possible of everything else, for extra baggage is a curse and will deplete a heavy purse,--that rhymes and has reason too.  I know of one man who paid $300 for extra baggage for his party of fifteen from Boston to Los Angeles.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Last year I brought dresses and underwear for every season, and for a vague unknown fifth; also my lectures, causing profanity all along the line, and costing enough to provide drawing-room accommodations for the entire trip.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Why did I come?  Laryngitis, bronchitis, tonsilitis, had claimed me as their own.  Grip <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>And what is to be put in the one big trunk?  Plenty of flannels of medium thickness, a few pretty evening dresses, two blouses, silk and woolen or velvet for morning wear, with simple <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>So do not load up with portfolio and portable inkstand, your favorite stationery, the books that delighted your childhood or exerted a formative influence upon your character in youth.  Deny yourself and leave at home the gold or silver toilet set, photograph album, family Bibles, heavy fancy work, gilded horseshoe for luck, etc.  I know of bright people who actually carried their favorite matches from an eastern city to Tacoma, also a big box of crackers, cheese, pickles, and preserved fruits, only to find the best of everything in that brilliant and up-with-the-times city.  One old lady brought a calla-lily in a pot!  When she arrived and saw hedges and fields of lilies, hers went out of the window.  Another lady from Boston brought a quart bottle of the blackest ink, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>As to the various ways of coming here, I greatly prefer the Southern Pacific in winter, and Atchison, Topeka &amp; Santa Fe&acute; in spring or summer.  Either will take you from New York to San Diego and return for $137, allowing six months' stay.  The "Phillips Excursion" will take you from Boston to San Francisco for fifty-five dollars.  But in this case the beds are hard, and you provide your own meals.  Some try the long voyage, twenty-three days from New York to San Francisco.  It is considered monotonous and undesirable by some; others, equally good judges, prefer it decidedly.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I believe in taking along a loose wrapper to wear in the cars, especially when crossing the desert.  It greatly lessens fatigue to be able to curl up cosily in a corner and go to sleep, with a silk travelling hat or a long veil on one's head, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>Now imagine you have arrived, very tired, and probably with a cold in your head, for the close heated cars and the sudden changes of climate are trying.  You may be at The Raymond, and "personally conducted."  Nothing can be better than that.  But if you are alone at Los Angeles, or San Francisco, come straight down to Coronado Beach, and begin at the beginning--or the end, as you may think it.</P>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>AT CORONADO BEACH.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I ASSOCIATE Coronado Beach so closely with Warner (Charles D.), the cultured and cosmopolitan, that every wave seems to murmur his name, and the immense hotel lives and flourishes under the magic of his rhetoric and commendation.  Just as Philadelphia is to me Wanamakerville and Terrapin, so Coronado Beach is permeated and lastingly magnetized by Warner's sojourn here and what he "was saying."</P>
105.sgm:<P>But I must venture to find fault with his million-times-quoted adjective "unique" as it is used.  It has been stamped on stationery and menu cards, and has gone the world over in his volume "Our Italy," and no one ever visits this spot who has not made the phrase his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>But as I look out of my window this glorious morning, and watch the triple line of foaming waves breaking on the long beach, a silver sickle in the sunshine; the broad expanse of the Pacific, with distant sails looking like butterflies apoise; Point Loma grandly guarding the right, and farther back the mountain view, where snowy peaks can just be discerned over the nearer ranges; the quiet beauty of the grounds below, where borders and ovals and beds of marguerites contrast prettily with long lines and curves of the brilliant marigolds; grass, trees, and hedges green as June--a view which embraces the palm and the pine, the ocean and lofty mountains, cultivated gardens and rocky wastes, as I see all this, I for one moment forget "unique" and exclaim, "How bold, magnificent, and unrivalled!"  Give me a new and fitting adjective to describe what I see.  Our best descriptive adjectives are so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>As a daughter of New Hampshire in this farthest corner of the southwest, my mind crosses the continent to the remote northeast and the great Stone Face of the Franconia Mountains.  Chiselled by an Almighty hand, its rugged brow seamed by the centuries, its features scarred by the storms of ages, gazing out over the broad land, where centre the hopes of the human race, who can forget that face, sad with the mysteries of pain and sorrow, yet inspiring with its rugged determination, and at times softened with the touch of sunlit hope?</P>
105.sgm:<P>Point Loma has something of the same sphinx-like grandeur, with its long bold promontory stretching out into the western waters.  These two seem to be keeping watch and ward over mountain and sea: each appropriate in its place and equally impressive.  There the stern prophet surveying the home of great beginnings, the cradle of creative energy; and here, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>But when one first breathes the air of California, there is a curious exaltation and excitement, which leads on irresistibly.  This is often followed by a natural depression, sleepiness, and reaction.  But that view never changes, and I know you will say the same.  A florid, effervescent, rhapsodical style seems irresistible.  One man of uncommon business ability and particularly level head caught the spirit of the place, and wrote that "the most practical and unpoetical minds, too, come here and go away, as they afterward gingerly admit, carrying with them the memory of sunsets emblazoned in gold and crimson upon cloud, sea, and mountain; of violet promontories, sails, and lighthouses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>Some temperaments may not be affected at all.  But the first morning I felt like leaping a five-barred fence, and the next like lying down anywhere and sleeping indefinitely.  I met a distinguished Boston artist recently, who had just arrived.  The day was superb.  He seemed in a semi-delirium of ecstasy over everything.  His face glowed, his eyes shone, his hands were full of flowers.  He said, "My heart jumps so I'm really afraid it will jump out of my body."  The next morning he was wholly subdued.  It had poured all night, and the contrast was depressing.  A six-footer from Albany was in the sleepy state.  "If I don't pull out soon," he said, "I shall be bedridden.  I want to sleep after breakfast, or bowling, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>There has probably been more fine writing and florid rhetoric about California than any other State in the Union.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The Hotel del Coronado is a mammoth hostelry, yet homelike in every part, built in a rectangle with inner court, adorned with trees, flowers, vines, and a fountain encircled by callas; color, pure white, roofs and chimneys red; prevailing woods, oak, ash, pine, and redwood.  All around the inner court a series of suites of rooms, each with its own bath and corner sitting-room--literally "a linke&grave;d suiteness long drawn out."  It is one eighth of a mile from my bedroom to my seat in the dining-room, so that lazy people are obliged to take daily constitutionals whether they want to or not, sighing midway for trolley accommodations.  The dining-room may safely be called roomy, as it seats a thousand guests, and your dearest friends could not be recognized at the extreme end.  Yet there is no dreary stretch or caravansary effect, and to-day every seat is filled, and a dozen tourists waiting at the door.</P>
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105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>Every recreation of city or country is found in this little world: thirty billiard-tables, pool, bowling, tennis, polo, bathing (where bucking barrel-horses and toboggan slides, fat men who produce tidal waves, and tiny boys who do the heroic as sliders and divers, make fun for the spectators), hunting, fishing, yachting, rowing, riding to hounds, rabbit hunts, pigeon shoot, shooting-galleries, driving, coaching, cards, theatre, ballroom, lectures, minstrels, exhibitions of the Mammoth and Minute from Yosemite with the stereopticon, to Pacific sea-mosses, the ostrich farm, the museum or maze for a morning hour, dressing or undressing for evening display, watching the collection of human beings who throng everywhere with a critical or humorous eye, finding as much variety as on Broadway or Tremont Street; dancing-classes for children; a chaperon and a master of ceremonies for grown folks; a walk or drive twelve miles long on a smooth beach at low tide, not forgetting the "dark room" for kodak and camera f--amateurs.</P>
105.sgm:<P>You see many athletic, fine-looking men, who ride daringly and ride to kill.  Once a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>And that is what you see and hear at the Hotel del Coronado.  The summer climate is better than the winter--never too warm for comfort, the mercury never moving for weeks.  I expected constant sunshine, a succession of June's fairest days, which would have been monotonous, to say nothing of the effect upon crops and orchards.  The rainy season is necessary and a blessing to the land-owners, hard as it is for "lungers" and the nervous invalids who only feel well on fine days and complain unreasonably.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Ten inches is the average needed just here.  Rain is rainy and wet weather is wet, but the ground dries as soon as the pelting shower is over.  I do not find the raw, searching dampness of our Eastern seashore resorts.  Here we are said to have "dry fogs" and an ideal marine atmosphere, but it was too cold for comfort <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>As I sit in the upper gallery and watch the throng issuing from the dining-room, I make a nice and unerring social distinction between the Toothpick Brigade who leave the table with the final mouthful semi-masticated, and those who have an air of finished contentment.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The orchestra is unusually good, giving choice selections admirably executed.  I have not decided whether music at meals is a blessing or otherwise.  If sad, it seems a mockery; if gay, an interruption.  For one extremely sensitive to time and tune it is difficult to eat to slow measures.  And when the steak is tough and a galop is going on above, it is hard to keep up.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Among the many fleeting impressions of faces and friends here, one or two stand out clearly and indelibly--stars of the first magnitude in the nebul&aelig;--as dear Grandma Wade from Chicago, the most attractive old lady I ever met: eighty-three years old, with a firm step, rotund figure, and sweet, unruffled face, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>She still has her ardent admirers among men as well as women, and now and then receives an earnest proposal from some lonely old fellow.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The last of these aged lovers, when refused and relegated to the position of a brother, urged her to reconsider this important matter, making it a subject of prayer.  But she quietly said, "I'm not going to bother the Lord with questions I can answer myself."  When choked by a bread-crumb at table, she said to the frightened waiter, as soon as she had regained her breath, "Never mind, if that did go down the wrong way, a great many good things have gone down the right way this winter."</P>
105.sgm:<P>She is invariably cheerful, and when parting with her son for the winter she said, "Well, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>Even when ill she is still bright and hopeful, so that a friend exclaimed, "Grandma, I do believe you would laugh if you were dying;" and she replied, "Well, so many folks go to the Lord with a long face, I guess He will be glad to see one come in smiling."</P>
105.sgm:<P>Oh, how repulsive the artificial bloom, the cosmetics and hair-dyes which make old age a horror, compared with her natural beauty!  God bless and keep dear Grandma Wade!</P>
105.sgm:<P>Little "Ted" is another character and favorite, and his letter to his nurse in New York gives a good idea of how the place affects a bright, impressionable child.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"MY DEAR JULIA:</P>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">It is a dummy near the hotel and it takes five days to come here and there is an island right beyond the boat house and they have a pigeon shoot every week.  And there is six hundred people here Julia, one hundred and fifty came yesterday</HI>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">There is a mountin across the river and a house very far away by itself, Julia.  I play in the sand every day of my life, and I take swimming lessons and I have two oranges.  California is the biggest world in the country and there is a tree very, very far away.  Julia it is a puzzle walk near the hotel, Rose and me went all through it and Julia, we got our way out easy</HI>
105.sgm:<P>He has it all.  All the trees are cultivated here, so I looked round for the one Ted spoke of, and find it lights up at night and revolves for the aid of the mariners.  I think that all Californians echo his sentiment that "California is the biggest world in the country"; and compared with the hard work of the New England farmers, what is the cultivation of orchards but playing in the sand with golden oranges?  Some one says that Californians "irrigate, cultivate, and exaggerate."</P>
105.sgm:<P>Charles Nordhoff, the veteran journalist and author, lives within sight of the hotel (which he pronounces the most perfect and charming hotel he knows of in Europe or America), in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>So ends my sketch of Coronado.  Coronado!  What a perfect word!  Musical, euphonious, regal, "the crowned"!  The name of the governor of New Galicia, and captain-general of the Spanish army, sent forth in 1540 in search of the seven cities of Cibola.  General J. H. Simpson, U. S. A., has witten a valuable monograph on "Coronado's March," which can be found in the Smithsonian Report for 1869.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I intend to avoid statistics and history on the one side, and extravagant eulogy on the other.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Now we will say good-by to our new friends, take one more look at Point Loma, and cross the ferry to San Diego.</P>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>SAN DIEGO.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The truly magnificent, and--with reason--famous port of San Diego."--</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From the first letter of Father Junipero in Alto California</HI>
105.sgm:<P>FIFTEEN cents for motor, ferry, and car will take you to Hotel Florence, on the heights overlooking the bay, where I advise you to stop.  The Horton House is on an open, sunny site, and is frequented by "transients" and business men of moderate means.  The Brewster is a first-class hotel, with excellent table.  The Florence is not a large boarding-house or family hotel, but open for all.  It has a friendly, homelike atmosphere, without the exactions of an ultra-fashionable resort.  The maximum January temperature is seventy-four degrees, while that of July is seventy-nine degrees, and invalid guests at this house wear the same weight clothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:summer that they do in winter.  The rooms of this house are all sunny, and each has a charming ocean or mountain view.  It is easy to get there; hard to go away.  Arriving from Coronado Beach, I was reminded of the Frenchman who married a quiet little home body after a desperate flirtation with a brilliant society queen full of tyrannical whims and capricious demands.  When this was commented on as surprising, he explained that after playing with a squirrel one likes to take a cat in his lap.  Really, it is so restful that the building suggests a big yellow tabby purring sleepily in the sunshine.  I sat on the veranda, or piazza, taking a sun-bath, in a happy dream or doze, until the condition of nirvana was almost attained.  What day of the week was it?  And the season?  Who could tell?  And who cares?  Certainly no one has the energy to decide it.  Last year, going there to spend one day, I remained for five weeks, hypnotized by my environments--beguiled, deluded, unconscious of the flight of time, serenely happy.  Many come for a season, and wake up after five or six years to find <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>At Coronado Beach one rushes out after breakfast for an all-day excursion or morning tramp; here one sits and sits, always intending to go somewhere or do something, until the pile of unanswered letters accumulates and the projected trips weary one in a dim perspective.  It is all so beautiful, so new, so wonderful!  San Diego is the Naples of America, with the San Jacinto Mountains for a background and the blue sunlit bay to gaze upon, and one of the finest harbors in the world.  Yet with all this, few have the energy even to go a-fishing.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Now, as a truthful "tourist," I must admit that in the winter there are many days when the sun does not shine, and the rainy season is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>There has been such a rosy glamour thrown over southern California by enthusiastic romancers that many are disappointed when they fail to find an absolute Paradise.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Humboldt said of California: "The sky is constantly serene and of a deep blue, and without a cloud; and should any clouds appear for a moment at the setting of the sun, they display the most beautiful shades of violet, purple, and green."<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
105.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">Humboldt had never been in Alta California, and procured this information in Mexico or Spain.</NOTE>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Now, after reading that, a real rainy day, when the water leaks through the roof and beats in at the doors, makes a depressed invalid feel like a drenched fowl standing forlornly on one leg in the midst of a New England storm.  With snow-covered mountains on one side and the ocean with its heavy fogs on the other, and the tedious rain pouring down with gloomy persistence, and consumptives coughing violently, and physicians hurrying in to attend to a sudden hemorrhage or heart-failure, the scene is not wholly gay and inspiriting.  But when the sun comes forth again and the flowers (that look to me a little tired of blooming all the time) brighten up with fresh washed faces, and all vegetation rejoices and you can almost see things grow, and the waves dance and glitter, and the mountains no longer look cold and threatening but seem like painted scenery, <HI REND="italics">a la</HI>
105.sgm: Bierstadt, hung up for our admiration, and the valleys breathe the spicy fragrance of orange blossoms, we are once more happy, and ready to rave a little ourselves over the much-talked-of "bay 'n' climate."  But there ar dangers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The tourist or traveller who writes of San Diego usually knows nothing of it but a week or two in winter or early spring.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Southern California has fifty-two weeks in the year, and for two thirds of this time the weather is superb.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I can imagine even a mission Indian grunting and complaining if taken to our part of the country in the midst of a week's storm.  We flee from deadly horrors of climate to be fastidiously critical.  If, in midsummer, sweltering sufferers in New York or Chicago could be transported to this land they would not hurry away.  The heat is rarely above eighty-five degrees, and nearly always mitigated by a refreshing breeze from the bay.  I am assured that there have not been five nights in as many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>One must summer and winter here before he can judge fairly, and the hyper-sensitive should tarry in New Mexico or in the desert until spring.  I believe that rheumatic or neuralgic invalids should avoid the damp resorts to which they are constantly flocking only to be dissatisfied.  Every sort of climate can be found in the State, so that no one has the right to grumble.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Do not take off flannels, although the perspiration does trickle down the side of your face as you sit in the sun.  A fur cape is always needed to protect one shoulder from a chilling breeze while the other side is toasted.  It is not safe for new-comers to be out-of-doors after four or five o'clock in the afternoon, nor must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Bill Nye, with his usual good sense, refused to drive in a pouring rain to view the scenery and orchards when visiting San Diego in March, and says: "Orange orchards are rare and beautiful sights, but when I can sit in this warm room, gathered about a big coal fire, and see miles of them from the window, why should I put on my fur overcoat and a mackintosh in order to freeze and cry out with assumed delight every half-mile while I gradually get Pomona of the lungs?"</P>
105.sgm:<P>There are many places worth visiting if you can rouse yourselves for the effort.  Point Loma, twelve miles distant, gives a wonderful view, one of the finest in the world.  I warrant you will be so famished on arriving that you will empty every lunch-basket before attending to the outlook.  National City, Sweet Water Dam, Tia Juana (Aunt Jane), La Jolla--you will hear of all these.  I have tried them and will report.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>The Kimball brothers, Warren and Frank, who came from New Hampshire twenty-five years ago and devoted their energies to planting orchards of oranges, lemons, and olives, have made the desert bloom, and found the business most profitable.  You will like to watch the processes of pickling olives and pressing out the clear amber oil, which is now used by consumptives in preference to the cod-liver oil.  Many are rubbed with it daily for increasing flesh.  It is delicious for the table, but the profits are small, as cotton-seed oil is much cheaper.  Lemons pay better than oranges, Mr. Kimball tells me.  Mrs. Flora Kimball has worked side by side with her husband, who is an enthusiast for the rights of woman.  She is progressive, and ready to help in every good work, with great executive ability and a hearty appreciation of any good quality in others.</P>
105.sgm:<P>It does not pay to take the trip to Mexico if time is limited, there is so little of Mexico in it.  After leaving the train and getting into an omnibus, the voluble darkey in charge soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:shouts out, "We are now crossing the line," but as no difference of scene is observed, it is not deeply impressive.  One young fellow got out and jumped back and forth over the line, so that if asked on his return if he had been to Mexico he could conscientiously answer, "Oh yes, many times."  We were then taken to the custom-house, where we mailed some hastily scribbled letters for the sake of using a Mexican stamp,--some preferred it stamped on a handkerchief.  And near by is the curio store, where you find the same things which are seen everywhere, and where you will doubtless buy a lot of stuff and be sorry for it.  But whatever other folly you may be led into, let me implore you to wholly abstain from that deadly concoction, the Mexican <HI REND="italics">tamale</HI>
105.sgm:<P>A <HI REND="italics">tamale</HI>
105.sgm: is a curious and dubious combination of chicken hash, meal, olives, red pepper, and I know not what, enclosed in a corn-husk, steamed until furiously hot, and then offered for sale by Mexicans in such a sweet, appealing way that few can resist the novelty.  It has a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>A friend of mine tasted a small portion of one late at night.  It was later before she could sleep, and then terrible nightmares intruded upon her slumber.  Next morning she looked so ill and enfeebled, so unlike her rosy self, that we begged to know the cause.  The tale was thrilling.  She thought a civil war had broken out and she could not telegraph to her distant spouse.  The agony was intense.  She must go to him with her five children, and at once.  They climbed mountains, tumbled into can&tilde;ons, were arrested in their progress by cataracts and wild storms, and even the hostile Indian appeared in full war-paint at a point above.  This awoke her, only to fall into another horrible situation.  An old lover suddenly returned, tried to approach her: she screamed, "I am now a married woman!"--he lifted his revolver, and once again she returned to consciousness and the <HI REND="italics">tamale</HI>
105.sgm:, and brandy, and Brown's Jamaica ginger.  If she had eaten half the <HI REND="italics">tamale</HI>
105.sgm: the pistol would doubtless have completed its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Sweet Water Dam is a triumph of engineering, one of the largest dams in the world, holding six million gallons of water, used for irrigating ranches in Sweet Water Valley; and at La Jolla you will find pretty shells and clamber down to the caves.  There the stones are slippery, and an absorbing flirtation should be resisted, as the tide often intrudes most unexpectedly, and in dangerous haste.  Besides the caves the attractions are the fishing and the kelp beds.  These kelp beds form a submarine garden, and the water is so clear that one can see beautiful plants, fish, etc., at forty or fifty feet below the sea surface--not unlike the famous sea-gardens at Nassau in the Bahamas.  There is a good hotel, open the year round.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>Lakeside is a quiet inland retreat twenty-two miles from San Diego, where many go for a little excursion and change of air.  The Lakeside Hotel has seventy large rooms and complete appointments.  The table is supplied with plenty of milk and <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
105.sgm: cream from their own cows, vegetables and fruit from the neighboring ranches, game in its season, shot on the lake near by, and, in the valleys, meats from home-grown stock.  The guests who are not too invalidish often go out for long drives, never forgetting the lunch-baskets.  One day we try the Alpine stage.  Winding across the mesa at the rear of the hotel, we have a lovely view of the little lake half hidden in the trees, reflecting in its quiet surface the mountains that rise up beyond it.  Gradually climbing upward, we come to a tract of land that is watered by the Flume.  To our surprise we learn that this is practically frostless, and that since this has been discovered many young orchards of oranges and lemons have been planted.  The red mesa land on the side-hills will not be touched by the frosts of a cold night when the valley at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:its foot will have enough frost to kill all tender growth.  This is a new discovery, and has placed thousands of acres on the market as suitable for the culture of citrus fruits.  Do you notice how the appearance of the landscape is changing?  The nearer hills are much sharper and steeper, and their sides are studded by great boulders.  There are stone walls, and here and there are great flocks of sheep.  The horses stop of their own accord at a lovely spot where they are used to getting a drink of cool spring water.  Did any ever taste quite so good as that drunk from an old dipper after a long warm drive?  The live-oaks and sycamores look too inviting to be resisted, and we get out to explore while the horses are resting.  Underneath the evergreen shade we pick up some of the large pointed acorns and carry them away as souvenirs.  This would be a delightful spot for a picnic, but we have many miles before us and must go on.  In a few more miles we reach a little town known as "Alpine."  In the distance looms the Viejas, and if any of the party wish to travel over a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>One of the favorite drives is into the Monte.  This is a large park or tract of a thousand acres.  On each side the hills rise, and in front El Cajon shows new beauties with every step of the way.  Great live-oaks with enormous trunks, ancient sycamores, elders, and willows make in some spots a dense shade.  On the edge of the hillsides the Flume may be seen, which furnishes many ranches as well as the city of San Diego with the purest mountain water.  Underneath the trees and up on the rocks the lover of flowers and ferns will scramble.  There are the dainty forget-me-nots, tiny flowers of starry white, flowers of pale orange with centres of deep maroon, the wild galliardia, and the wild peony with its variegated leaves.  Many other delicate blossoms which we cannot stop to describe are there too.  And <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>There is the valley of El Cajon ("the box"), which should be visited in grape-picking time.  The great Boston ranch alone employs three hundred twenty-five pickers.  Men, women, children, all busy, and the grapes when just turned are sweet, spicy, and delicious, making the air fragrant.  This valley is dotted with handsome villas and prosperous ranches.  The range of mountains which looms up before us from the veranda of the hotel is not yet dignified by a name, yet it is more imposing than the White Mountains, and in the distance we see old Cuyamaca, nearly seven thousand feet high.  But we must take the next train for San Diego, or this chapter will be a volume in itself.  And I have not even alluded to the "Great Back Country."</P>
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105.sgm:<P>The founder of San Diego is still living, still hopeful, still young at heart.  "Father" Horton, the typical pioneer, deserves more honors than he has yet received.  Coming from Connecticut to California in 1851, he soon made a small fortune in mining, buying and selling gold-dust, and providing the diggers with ice and water for their work.  He rode over the country in those lawless times selling the precious dust disguised as a poverty-stricken good-for-naught, with trusty revolver always in his right hand on the pommel of the saddle--the handsome green saddle covered with an old potato sack.  In this way he evaded the very men who had been on his track for weeks.  Once he came near capture.  He passed a bad-looking lot of horsemen, one of whom had a deep red scar the whole length of his cheek.  He got by safely, but one, looking round, exclaimed, "My God!  That's Horton!  I see the green saddle."  And back they dashed to kill him and gain his treasure, but he escaped into a can&tilde;on, and they lost their one chance.</P>
105.sgm:<P>At another time he had $3500 in gold in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Returning East <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
105.sgm: Panama in 1856, he proved himself a hero and a soldier during the terrible riot there.  The natives, angry because they had lost the money they used to make in transporting passengers, attacked the foreigners, killing and plundering all who came in their way, the police turning traitors and aiding them.  The hotel was attacked, and among all the passengers only three were armed.  Mr. Horton and these two young men stood at the top of the stairs and shot all who tried to get nearer.  When they fell back eight rioters were dead and others wounded.  Then Mr. Horton formed the two hundred passengers in order and marched them off to a lighter, and put them aboard the steamer.  About half this number wanted to go on to San Francisco, but had lost all their money and baggage.  Mr. Ralston and Mr. Horton helped many to pay their passage, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Up to the period which is known as the boom of 1870-71, the history of San Diego was so interwoven and closely connected with the life of Mr. Horton that the story of one is inseparable from that of the other.</P>
105.sgm:<P>When Mr. Horton came from San Francisco to see the wonderful harbor described by friends, there was nothing there but two old buildings, the barren hillsides, and the sheep pastures.</P>
105.sgm:<P>His gifts to the city and to individuals amount to a present valuation of over a million of dollars.  Of the nine hundred acres of land which he originally bought (a part of the Mexican grant) at twenty-seven cents an acre, he owns but little.</P>
105.sgm:<P>But it is to his common sense, foresight, and business ability that the present city owes much of its success; and it is interesting to hear him tell of exciting adventures in "Poker Flat," and other places which Bret Harte has worked up so successfully.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Lieut. George H. Derby is amusingly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:associated with "Old Town," the former San Diego, three miles from the present city.  He had offended Jefferson Davis, then Secretary of War, by his irreverent wit, and was punished by exile to this then almost unknown region, which he called "Sandy Ague," chiefly inhabited by the flea, the horned toad, and the rattlesnake.  Mr. Ames, of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
105.sgm:, a democratic paper, asked Derby, a stanch whig, to occupy the editorial chair during a brief absence.  He did so, changing its politics at once, and furnishing funny articles which later appeared as "Phoenixiana," and ranked him with Artemus Ward as a genuine American humorist.  Here is his closing paragraph after those preposterous somersaults and daring pranks as editor <HI REND="italics">pro tem</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Very little news will be found in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
105.sgm: this week; the fact is, there never is much news in it, and it is very well that it is so; the climate here is so delightful that residents in the enjoyment of their <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
105.sgm: care very little about what is going on elsewhere, and residents of other places care very little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The present city has eighteen thousand inhabitants, twenty-three church organizations, remarkably fine schools, a handsome operahouse, broad asphalt pavements, electric lights, electric and cable cars,--a compact, well-built city, from the fine homes on the Heights to the business portion near the water.</P>
105.sgm:<P>In regard to society, I find that the "best society" is much the same all over the civilized world.  Accomplished, cultured, well-bred men and women are found in every town and city in California.  And distance from metropolitan privileges makes people more independent, better able to entertain themselves and their guests, more eagerly appreciative of the best in every direction.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O city reflecting thy might from the sea,<LB>There is grandeur and power in the future for thee,<LB>Whose flower-broidered garments the soft billows lave,<LB>Thy brow on the hillside, thy feet in the wave."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Many of San Diego's guests have no idea of her at her best.  The majority of winter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:tourists leave California just as Mother Nature braces up to do her best with wild-flowers, blossoming orchards, and waving grain-fields.  The summers are really more enjoyable than the winters.  When the Nicaragua Canal is completed it will be a pleasant trip to San Diego from any Atlantic seaport.  A railroad to Phoenix, Arizona, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
105.sgm:<P>THE INDIANS AND THE MISSION FATHERS.</P>
105.sgm:<P>As for Indians, I have never seen such Indians as Helen Hunt Jackson depicts so lovingly.  I have never seen any one who has seen one.  They existed in her imagination only, as did Fenimore Cooper's noble redmen of the forest solely in his fancy.  Both have given us delightful novels, and we are grateful.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The repulsive stolid creatures I have seen at stations, with sullen stare, long be-vermined locks, and filthy blankets full of fleas, are possibly not a fair representation of the remnants of the race.  They have been unfairly dealt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Mr. Robinson, after a twenty years' residence among them, said: "The Indian of California is a species of monkey; he imitates and copies white men, but selects vice in preference to virtue.  He is hypocritical and treacherous, never looks at any one in conversation, but has a wandering, malicious gaze.  Truth is not in him."</P>
105.sgm:<P>And the next testimony is from an Indian curate: "The Indians lead a life of indolence rather than devote themselves to the enlightening of their souls with ideas of civilization and cultivation; it is repugnant to their feelings, which have become vitiated by the unrestricted customs among them.  Their inclination to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Dana, speaking of the language of the Californian Indians, described it as "brutish" and "a complete slabber."</P>
105.sgm:<P>The missionary Fathers did their best to teach and convert them, and the missions must be spoken of.  So we will go back a little.</P>
105.sgm:<P>No one knows how California was so named St. Diego was the patron saint of Spain.  St. Francis, who founded the Franciscan order, was a gay young Italian, who after conversion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Father Junipero, of this order, was appointed presiding missionary of California, and arrived July, 1769, erected a great cross on the coast, celebrated mass, and commenced his work.  Like St. Francis, he was earnest, devout, pure, and self-sacrificing, blessed with wonderful magnetism.  Once, while exhorting his hearers to repent, he scourged his own shoulders so unmercifully with a chain that his audience shuddered and wept; and one man, overcome by emotion, rushed to the pulpit, secured the chain, and, disrobing, flogged himself to death.  This holy Father believed that he was especially protected by Heaven, and that once, when journeying on a desolate road, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>He said, "I have placed my faith in God, and trust in His goodness to plant the standard of the holy cross not only at San Diego, but even as far as Monterey."</P>
105.sgm:<P>And this was done in less than ten years, but with many discouragements.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The first Indian who was induced to bring his baby for baptism got frightened, and dashed away, taking, however, the handsome piece of cloth which had been wrapped around the child for the ceremony.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Next there was an attack with arrows; in less than a month serious fighting followed; and later more than one thousand Indians joined in the attack.  One priest was killed and all inhabitants of the mission more or less wounded, and the mission itself was burned.  The present ruins are the "new" buildings on the site of the old, completed in 1784, the walls of adobe four feet thick, the doorways and windows of burnt tiles.  These half-cylindrical plates of hard-burnt clay were used to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>In front is the orchard of three hundred olive trees, more than a century old, still bearing a full crop, and likely to do so for centuries to come.  As the Indians disliked work much, and church services more, they were encouraged in both matters by rather forcible means, as the Irishman "enticed" the pig into his pen with a pitchfork.  We "toourists" who, dismounting from our carriages, view with sentimental reverence the picturesque ruins, the crumbling arches, the heavy bells now silent but mutely telling a wondrous story of the past, and tiptoe quietly through the damp interiors, gazing at pictures of saints and of hell and paradise, dropping our coins into the box at the door, and going out duly impressed to admire the architecture or the carving, or the general fine effect against the sky of fleckless blue--we picture these sable neophytes coming gladly, bowing in devout homage, delighted to learn of God and Deity, and cheerfully coo&die;perating <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>It is said that they were literally enslaved and scared into submission by dreadful pictures of hell and fear of everlasting torment.  After church they would gamble, and they often lost everything, even wives and children.  They were low, brutal, unintelligent, with an exceedingly limited vocabulary and an unbounded appetite.  A man is as he eats, and, as some one says, "If a man eats peanuts he will think peanuts."</P>
105.sgm:<P>"There was nothing that could be swallowed and digested which the San Diego Indian would not eat.  Snakes, half roasted and even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The saintly Fathers deserve unlimited praise for making them accomplish so much and behave as well as they did.  Those New Englanders who criticise them as severe in discipline must remember that at the same period our ancestors were persecuting Quakers and burning witches.  The beautiful hospitality of these early priests should also be mentioned.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Alfred Robinson described a miracle play which he saw performed at San Diego at Christmas, in 1830, as akin to the miracle plays of medi&aelig;val Europe.  The actors took the part <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>EN ROUTE TO LOS ANGELES.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Bless me, this is pleasant,<LB>Riding on the rail!"</HI>
105.sgm:<P>ON the Surf Line from San Diego to Los Angeles, a seventy-mile run along the coast, there is so much to see, admire, and think about, that the time passes rapidly without napping or nodding.  Take a chair seat on the left of car--the ocean side--and enjoy the panoramic view from the window: the broad expanse of the Pacific, its long curling breakers, the seals and porpoises tumbling about in clumsy frolics, the graceful gulls circling above them, the picturesque can&tilde;ons, and the flocks of birds starting from the ground, frightened by our approach.  This we watch for more than an hour; then the scene changes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The missions are always interesting.  San Juan Capistrano was seriously injured by an earthquake in 1812; the tower was shaken so severely that it toppled over during morning mass, killing thirty of the worshippers, the priests escaping through the sacristy.  It was the latest and costliest of the missions.  "Its broken olive mill and crumbling dove-cote, and the spacious weed-grown courts and corridors, are pathetic witnesses to the grandeur of the plans and purposes of the founders, and also of the rapidity with which nature effaces the noblest works of human hands."</P>
105.sgm:<P>But San Luis Rey is in good condition, having been restored to something of its original beauty, and recently re-dedicated.  The walled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:enclosures once contained fifty-six acres, six being covered by the sacred edifice, its arched colonnades, and the cloisters, in which the Fathers lived, surrounded by three thousand baptized savages.  Mrs. Jeanne C. Carr quotes a stage-driver with whom she talked on the box as saying: "Ye see, ma'am, what them old padders didn't know 'bout findin' work for their subjicks and pervidin' for the saints 'n' angels, not to say therselves, wa'n't wuth knowin'.  They carried on all kinds o' bizness.  Meat was plenty, keepin' an' vittles was to be had at all the missions an' ranches too, jes' by settin' round.  The pastures and hills was alive with horses and cattle, an' hides an' taller was their coin.  They cured and stacked the hides, dug holes in stiff ground, an' run the taller into 'em; it kep' sweet until a ship laid up to Capistrano, <HI REND="italics">then that taller turned into gold</HI>
105.sgm:.  They could load up a big ship in a single day, they had so many Indians to help."  And he proceeded to tell of his own lucky find: "A lot of that holy taller was lost 'n' fergot, nobuddy knows how many years.  One night I went up into the grass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>It may seem irreverent to introduce this droll fellow in sharp contrast with the beautiful ruin, full of the most cherished memories of old Spain, but reality often gives romance a hard jar.  It is pleasant to know that the expelled Franciscan order has just returned to California, and that San Luis Rey is now occupied.  It is worth making the trip to San Juan to see the old bells struck, as in former times, by a rope attached to the clapper.  They have different tones, and how eloquently they speak to us.  These missions along the coast and a line farther inland are the only real ruins that we have in America, and must be preserved, whether as a matter of sentiment or money, and in some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>A society has been formed to try to save them, and one learned and enthusiastic mission lover proposes to revive the old Camino del Rey, or King's Highway.  "What could not the drive from San Diego to Sonoma be made if the State once roused herself to make it?  Planted and watered and owned as an illustration of forestry, why should it not also as a route of pilgrimage rank with that to Canterbury or Cologne on the Rhine?  The Franciscans have given to California a nomenclature which connects them and us permanently with what was great in their contemporary history, while we preserve daily upon our lips the names of the great chiefs of their own order."</P>
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105.sgm:<P>But where am I?  Those mouldering walls led me into a reverie.  Speaking of "ruins" reminds me of a Frenchman who called on the poet Longfellow in his old age and explained his visit in this way: "Sare, you 'ave no ruins in dis country, so I 'ave come to see you."</P>
105.sgm:<P>The cactus hedge around each mission to keep the cattle in, and possibly the hostile Indians out, must have been effective.  We see now and then a little that has survived.  This makes me think of a curious bird I noticed in my drives at San Diego, the roadrunner, classed with the cuckoo.  It has various names, the chaparral-cock, the ground-cuckoo, the prairie-cock, paisano, and worst of all, in classic nomenclature, the <HI REND="italics">Geococcyx californianus</HI>
105.sgm:<P>It keeps on the ground most of the time, and can run with such swiftness that it cannot be easily overtaken by horse and hounds.  It has a tail longer than its body, which it bears erect.  It kills beetles, toads, birds, and mice, but has a special dislike for the rattlesnake, and often meets him and beats him in fair combat.  When it finds one sleeping or torpid it makes a circle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>This thorny circle is akin to the lariat made of horsehair, the ends sticking out roughly all around, with which the Indian used to encircle himself before going to sleep, as a protection from the rattlesnake, who could not cross it.  But here we are at Los Angeles.  Hear the bawling cabbies: "This way for The Westminster!"  "Hollenbeck Hotel!"</P>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES AND ROUND ABOUT.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O southland!  O dreamland! with cylces of green;<LB>O moonlight enchanted by mocking-bird's song;<LB>Cool sea winds, fair mountains, the fruit-lands between,<LB>The pepper tree's shade, and the sunny days long."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES is the chief city of Southern California, and truly venerable in comparison with most places in the State--founded in 1781, now one hundred and twelve years old.  Its full name, "Nuestra Senora la Reina de los Angeles," "musical as a chime of bells," would hardly do in these days, and "The City of the Angels," as it is sometimes called, scarcely suits the present big business-y place, which was started by those shrewd old padres when everything west of the Alleghanies was an almost unknown region, and Chicago and St. Louis were not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:thought of.  These Fathers were far-sighted fellows, with a keen eye for the beautiful, sure to secure good soil, plenty of water, and fine scenery for a settlement.  Next came the Hispano-American era of adobe, stage-coaches, and mule teams, now replaced by the purely American possessions, with brick, stone, vestibule trains, and all the wonders of electricity.  It is now a commercial centre, a railroad terminal, with one hundred miles of street-car track within the city limits, carrying twelve million passengers yearly.  It has outgrown the original grant of six miles square, and has a city limit, and the first street traversed this square diagonally.  It lies on the west bank of the Los Angeles River, one of those peculiar streams which hides itself half the year only to burst forth in the spring in a most assertive manner.  There are fine public buildings, fifty-seven churches, to suit all shades of religious belief, two handsome theatres, several parks, and long streets showing homes and grounds comparing favorably with the best environs of Eastern cities.  It is well to drive through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Madame de Stae&die;l was right when she said she greatly preferred meeting interesting men and women to admiring places or scenery.  Among my pleasantest memories of Los Angeles are my visits to Madame Fremont in her pretty red cottage, presented by loving friends.  It is a privilege to meet such a clever, versatile woman.  Her conversation flashes with epigrams and pithy sayings, and her heart is almost as young as when it was captured by the dashing "Pathfinder."</P>
105.sgm:<P>I believe there are men still existing who keep up the old absurd fallacy that women are deficient in wit and humor!  She would easily convert all such.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The Coronels, to whom Mrs. Jackson was so indebted and of whom she wrote so appreciatively, are still in the same home, cherishing her memory most fondly, her photograph being placed in a shrine where the sweet-faced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Don Antonio Coronel is truly a most interesting personage, the last specimen of the grand old Spanish re&acute;gime.  His father was the first schoolmaster in California, and the son has in his possession the first schoolbook printed on this coast, at Monterey in 1835, a small catechism; also the first book printed in California, a tiny volume dated 1833, the father having brought the type from Spain.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I was taken to the basement to see a rare collection of antiquities.  In one corner is a cannon made in 1710, and brought by Junipero Serra.  Ranged on shelves is a collection such as can be found nowhere else, of great value: strange stone idols, a few specimens of the famous iridescent pottery, queer ornaments, toys, and relics.  In another corner see the firearms and weapons of long ago: old flintlocks, muskets, Spanish bayonets, crossbows, and spears.  There are coins, laces, baskets, toys, skulls, scalps, and a sombrero with two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>For the stranger Los Angeles is the place to go to to see a new play, or marvel at the display of fruits seen at a citrus fair--forts made of thousands of oranges, and railroad stations and crowns of lemons, etc.--and admire a carnival of flowers, or for a day's shopping; but there are better spots in which to remain.  I found the night air extremely unpleasant last winter, and after hearing from a veracious druggist, to whom I applied for a gargle, that there was an epidemic of grip in the city, and that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Those who live in the city and those who do not dislike raw, bracing winds from the ocean pronounce Los Angeles to be the <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Los Angeles is also a place to go from to the beach at Santa Monica, and Redondo, or that wondrous island, "Santa Catalina," which has been described by Mr. C. F. Holder in the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
105.sgm: so enthusiastically that I should think the "Isle of Summer" could not receive all who would unite to share his raptures--with a climate nearer to absolute perfection than any land, so near all the conveniences of civilization, and everything else that can be desired.  His first jew-fish or black sea-bass weighed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>PASADENA.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"If there be an Elysium upon earth,<LB>It is this, it is this."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>FOR my own taste, I prefer Pasadena, the "Crown of the Valley"--nine miles from Los Angeles, but eight hundred feet higher and with much drier air, at the foot of the Sierra Madre range, in the beauteous San Gabriel Valley.  Yes, Pasadena seems to me as near Eden as can be found by mortal man.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Columbus in a letter to Ferdinand and Isabella said, "I believe that if I should pass under the equator in arriving at this higher region of which I speak, I should find there a milder temperature and a diversity in the stars <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Poor persecuted Columbus!  I wish he could have once seen Pasadena, the very spot he dreamed of.  Can I now write calmly, critically, judicially of what I see, enjoy, admire and wonder over?  If I succeed it will be what no one else has done.  I was here last year and gave my impressions then, which are only strengthened by a second visit, so that I will quote my own words, which read like the veriest gush, but are absolutely true, came straight from my heart, and, after all, didn't half tell the story.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I am fascinated and enthralled by your sunkissed, rose-embowered, semi-tropical summerland of Hellenic sky and hills of Hymettus, with its paradoxical antitheses: of flowers and flannels; strawberries and sealskin sacks; open fires with open windows; snow-capped mountains and orange blossoms; winter looking down upon summer--a topsy-turvy land, where you dig for your wood and climb for your coal; where water-pipes are laid above ground, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Then the Climate--spell it with a capital, and then try to think of an adjective worthy to precede it.  Glorious!  Delicious!  Incomparable!  Paradisaical!!!  To a tenderfoot straight from New Hampshire, where we have nine months of winter and three of pretty cold weather, where we have absolutely but three months that are free from frost, this seems like enchanted ground.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>A climate warm, with a constant refreshing coolness in its heart; cool, with a latent vivifying warmth forever peeping out of its coat-tail pocket.</P>
105.sgm:<P>June does not define it, nor September.  It has no synonym, for there is nothing like it.  I am glad that I have lived to see hedges of heliotrope, of geraniums and calla-lilies.  I remember, in contrast, solitary calla plants that I have nursed with care all winter in hopes of one blossom for Easter.  And I do not feel sure that I can ever tear myself away.  I am reminded of good old Dr. Watts, who was invited by Lady Abney to pass a fortnight at her home, and remained for forty years.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Here we all unconsciously eat the lotus in some occult fashion, are straightway bewitched and held willing captives.  I have looked up the lotus, about which so much is said or sung and so little definitely known, and find it is a prickly shrub of Africa, bearing a fruit of a sweet taste, and the early Greeks knew all about its power.  Homer in the Odyssey says that whoever ate of the fruit wished never to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The last letter received by me from New Hampshire, April 3d, begins in this way: "It is like the middle of winter here, good sleighing and still very cold."  And then comes a sad series of announcements of sickness and deaths caused by the protracted rigors of the season.  And here, at the same date, all the glories of the spring, which far exceeds our summer--Spanish breezes, Italian sky and sunsets, Alpine mountains, tropical luxuriance of vegetation, a nearly uniform climate, a big outdoor conservatory.  There is no other place on earth that combines so much in the same limits.  You can snowball your companions on Christmas morning on the mountain-top, pelt your lady friends with rose leaves in the foot-hills three hours later, and in another sixty minutes dip in the surf no cooler than Newport in July; and the theatre in the evening.  As a bright workman said, you can freeze through and thaw out in one day.</P>
105.sgm:<P>An electric railroad will soon connect Los <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Pasadena's homes, protected on three sides by mountain ranges, are surrounded by groves and gardens, trees and hedges from every clime.  Everything will grow and flourish here.  Capitalists from the East seem engaged in a generous rivalry to create the ideal paradise.  Passion vines completely cover the arbors, roses clamber to the tops of houses and blossom by tens of thousands.  I notice displays fit for a floral show in the windows of butcher shops and shoe stores.  The churches are adorned with a mantle of vines and flowers.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Are there no "outs," no defects in this Pasadena?  One must not forget the rainy days, the occasional "hot spells" of August and September, a wind now and then that blows off steeples and tears down fragile structures, bringing along a good deal more sand than is wanted.  And every year an earthquake may be expected.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Aside from these drawbacks and dust in summer, all else is perfection, except that the weather is so uniformly glorious that there is seldom a day when one is willing to stay at home.  I feel just now like a "deestrick" schoolboy who has been "kept in" on a summer afternoon.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The wild-flowers are more fascinating to me than all those so profusely cultivated.  I weary of five thousand calla-lilies in one church at Easter, and lose a little interest in roses when they bloom perennially and in such profusion that I have had enough given me in one morning to fill a wash-tub or clothes-basket!</P>
105.sgm:<P>The wealth of color on the hills and mesas in springtime can never be described or painted.  The State flower, the yellow poppy with the name that would floor any spelling-match hero--the eschscholtzia--is most conspicuous, and can be seen far away at sea; but there are dozens of others, that it is better to admire and leave unplucked, as they wilt so soon.  The ground is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>In April and May the lover of nature may pass into the seventh heaven of botanical delight.  Then in favored sections the display reaches a gorgeousness and a profusion that surpass both description and imagination.</P>
105.sgm:<P>No one can paint the grain fields as they look when the sun puts into every blade a tiny golden ray and it is no longer every-day common grain, but an enchanted carpet of living, radiant, golden green.  We tourists call it grass, but there is no grass to be proud of in California.</P>
105.sgm:<P>No one can paint the sky; no one would accept it as true to nature if once caught on the canvas.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I will not attempt to describe the mountains with their many charms.  I listened to a lecture <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>And the strangest part is that every word is true, and, say what one will, one never gets near the reality.  In this respect, you see, it differs from a floral catalogue sent out in early spring, or a hotel pamphlet with illustrations.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The cable road is 3000 feet long, with a direct ascent of 1400 feet, and the Echo Mountain House will be 1500 feet higher than the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>All this was designed and executed by Professor Lowe, of aeronaut fame, a scientist and banker, the inventor of water-gas and artificial ice, and a man of great business ability.</P>
105.sgm:<P>One of the best proofs of the health-giving power of this air is the fact that the physicians practising here, with one exception, came seriously ill and have not only recovered, but are strong enough to keep very busy helping others.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Pasadena has no ragged shabby outskirts; the poorer classes seem to be able to own or rent pretty little homes, some like large birdcages, all well kept and attractive.  Some gentlemen from Indianapolis came here in 1873 and started the town, planting their orange orchards under the shadows of the mountains.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Each portion has its own attractions.  Orange Grove Avenue, a street over a mile long, is described by its name.  Great trees stand in the centre of the street, a fine road on either <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The street cars which go from the station toward the mountains bear on each the words, "This Car for the Poppy Fields," and they are a sight worth seeing.  Mrs. Kellog describes this flower more perfectly than any artist could paint it: "Think of finest gold, of clearest lemon, of deepest orange on silkiest texture, just bedewed with a frost-like sheen, a silvery film, and you have a faint impression of what an eschscholtzia is.  Multiply this impression by acres of waving color."  And in February this may sometimes be seen.  It has been well chosen for the State flower.</P>
105.sgm:<P>If consumptives must go away from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:comforts of home, this is a haven of rest for them.  In a late <HI REND="italics">Medical Record</HI>
105.sgm:<P>This is a bit of the shady side after all the sunlight.  It is a place for the invalid to rejoice in, and those in robust health can find enough to do to employ all their energies.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The "Tournament of Roses" last winter was a grand success, praised by all.  The "Pageant of Roses" was celebrated here lately, and I cannot give you a better idea of it than by copying the synopsis.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>Imagine the opera-house trimmed inside with wreaths and festoons and bouquets of roses--a picture in itself; audience in full evening dress, each lady carrying roses, each man with a rose for a boutonnie&grave;re.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The dancing in costume was exquisitely graceful, and the evolutions and figures admirably exact--no mistake, nothing amateurish about the whole performance.</P>
105.sgm:<P>PART FIRST.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Los Flores, a garden in the Crown of the Valley.  Goddess Flora and her pages asleep.  Harlequin, the magic spirit, enters, produces by incantation the rain and summons the maiden Spring, who rouses the Goddess and her pages.  The Goddess commands the Harlequin to usher in the Pageant of Roses.  Enter the Red or Colonial Roses; march and form for the reception and dance of the Ladies of the Minuet.  Retire.  Harlequin, at the request of the Goddess, summons the Gold of Ophirs, bearing urn as offering to the Goddess, when is performed the dance of the Orient, including solo.  Curtain falls on tableau.</P>
105.sgm:<P>PART SECOND.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Same garden.  Goddess on her throne, surrounded by her pages.  She summons the Harlequin, who in turn brings the Roses of Castile.  They bring offering of flowers to the Goddess, and perform a dance.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>Goddess again summons Harlequin, who, by great effort, brings the Roses of the Snow, or the Little Girls from Boston, led by Frost Maiden.  They perform a dance and retire.  Both Harlequins enter, perform a dance, and command the blooming of the Pink Rose Buds.  Pink Rose Buds enter without offering for the Goddess, and prevail upon the Harlequins to help them out of their difficulties.  The Harlequins send Poppies for the great La France Rose Buds as an offering, and perform "The Transformation of the Rose."  Rose Buds dance and are joined by the little Roses in the Snow.  All dance and retire.  Enter White Harlequin, who calls for the White Rose dance by the Greek maidens.  They perform ceremonies and deck the altar of their Goddess, dance and retire.  Curtain.</P>
105.sgm:<P>PART THIRD.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Grand march.  Tableau, with falling Rose petals, in the magic can&tilde;on.</P>
105.sgm:<P>And not a word yet of The Raymond, that popular house set upon a hill that commands a view hard to equal.  The house is always filled to overflowing, and this year General Wentworth tells me the business has been better than ever.  This famous resort is in East Pasadena, and has its own station.  It is always closed in April, just at the time when there is the most to see and enjoy, and the flowers are left to bloom unseen.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>The other fine hotel here, named for its owner, Colonel Green of "August Flower" fame, is on ground eight feet higher, although by the conformation of the land it does not look so.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Many prefer to be in the town and nearer the mountains, and this house proving insufficient for its patrons, an addition four times the size of the present building is being added in semi-Moorish architecture, at a cost of $300,000.</P>
105.sgm:<P>That item shows what an experienced man of business thinks about the future of Pasadena.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The town is full of pleasant boarding-houses, as Mrs. Dexter's, Mrs. Bangs's, and Mrs. Roberts's, and many enjoy having rooms at one house and taking meals at another.  You can spend as much or as little as you choose.  At Mrs. Snyder's I found simple but delicious old-fashioned home-cooking at most reasonable rates.</P>
105.sgm:<P>And still more?  Yes, the Public Library must be mentioned, the valuable collections I was permitted to see, the old mission of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>While he is discoursing I will be studying the history of the Indian baskets and report later.</P>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>.</P>
105.sgm:<P>CAMPING ON MOUNT WILSON.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"On every height there lies repose."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>AT Pasadena the mountain wall which guards the California of the South stands very near and looks down with pride upon the blooming garden below.  The mountains which belong especially to Pasadena are but three miles away.  Their average height exceeds slightly that of the Mt. Washington range in New Hampshire.  The Sierra Madre system, of which they form a part, contains some peaks considerably higher.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Farther to the East, "Old Baldy"--Mt. San Antonio--raises its snowy summit to a height just close enough to ten thousand feet to test the veracity of its admirers.  It is about ten miles from Pasadena by the eyes, but would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>To the south and east of "Old Baldy" is Mt. San Jacinto, 12,000 feet above the Pacific, upon which it looks, in the far distance.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The majestic mountain wall, almost bending over the homes of Pasadena, with their vines and fig trees, their roses and lilies, their orchards of orange and lemon, and the distant snow-clad peaks glittering in the gentle sunshine, combine to form a perfect picture.  There are detailed descriptions from the pens of those who feel an unctuous joy in painting the lily, kalsomining the calla, and adding perfumes to the violet, the rose, and the orange.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The "Pasadena Alps" are so smeared with oleaginous gush that I had conceived against them a sort of antipathy, which was not diminished by their barren, treeless appearance.</P>
105.sgm:<P>As Nature reasserted herself, this artificial nausea wore away.  I took a drive to Millard's Can&tilde;on, and was surprised at finding a charming wooded road winding up through the can&tilde;on along a mountain stream.  From the end of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>This revelation inspired a drive to Eaton's Can&tilde;on, where I found similar attractions, and which led me to the new Mt. Wilson trail, or "Toll Road."  I made inquiries, inspected the small but substantial mules which do the pedestrian part of the trip, went up the trail a short distance, and, after many assurances, arranged to make the ascent.</P>
105.sgm:<P>In fact, this trail is remarkably well built.  It winds up the mountain by a gradual and even ascent of nine miles, the grade nowhere exceeding ten per cent.  There are two camps near the summit, open all the year.  You may return the same day or stay for the remainder of your life.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Take little luggage, of course: a heavy overcoat or wrap, and a small grip.  In the winter the nights are cold, and clouds and rain are not unlikely to present the compliments of the season.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The mountains of California are as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>As our mules plod up Mt. Wilson, the trail at first is sandy, and the mountain's flanks a barren waste, with thin covering of cactus and chaparral.  Half a mile from the starting-point appear small bushes, which grow larger as we move upward.  The trail turns into a can&tilde;on, and becomes a hard, cool pathway leading up through small live-oaks and high growth of bushes.  We begin to see slender pines and larger oaks.  Now the trail leaves the can&tilde;on and winds out upon the open mountain-side.  Here the chaparral is green and flourishing.</P>
105.sgm:<P>We wind abruptly into a can&tilde;on.  Bushes of wild lilac overhang the path.  The manzanita reminds one of lilies of the valley transplanted to California and growing on a bush.  Down to the torrent at the bottom of the can&tilde;on, and up its steep side, are large pines and live-oaks, mountain mahogany and cedar.  Near the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The summit is a forest of towering trees.  On the topmost ridges are the monarchs of the mountains--oaks three and four feet, and pines four and five feet in diameter.  Of course this increase in the size of timber is noticeably uniform, only where the soil and natural features of the mountains favor it.  But the summit of Mt. Wilson, at least, resembles a picnic ground raised nearly six thousand feet above the sea.  The air is light, dry, and exhilarating.  The ground is carpeted with pine needles.  Delicate wild-flowers are seen in their season.  In April I found wild peas in blossom, hare-bells, morning-glories, poppies, and many varieties of yellow flowers.  I also saw humming-birds, butterflies, swallows, and squirrels, and here and there patches of plain white old-fashioned snow.  It is a novel spectacle to see a small boy snowballing a butterfly.  In the spring even dead trees are glorified with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>From this upside-down mountain we look down upon rivers flowing bottom side up.  And that is California.</P>
105.sgm:<P>As to the safety of the ascent, no one need hesitate who is free from settled prejudice against a side-hill.  You will soon let the reins hang from the pommel of the saddle.  One who chooses may jump off and walk for a change.  Only, if you are at the end of the procession, be careful to keep between your mule and the foot of the mountain; otherwise he will wheel around and wend his way homeward.  If toiling along near the summit, absorbed in the beauties of the prospect, it might be awkward to feel the halter jerked from your hand and to see the mule galloping around a sharp bend with your satchel, hung loosely over the pommel, bobbing violently up and down, and perhaps hurled off into space as the intelligent animal rounds the corner.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Yes, it is safe, but there is a spice of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:excitement about it.  I was nervous at first, and seeing that the mule wished to nibble such herbage as offered itself, I had thought it well to humor him.  At a narrow space with sharp declivity below, the beast fixed his jaws upon a small tough bush on the upper bank.  As he warmed up to the work, his hind feet worked around toward the edge of the chasm.  The bush began to come out by the roots, which seemed to be without end.  As the weight of the mule was thrown heavily backward, I looked forward with some apprehension to the time when the root should finally give way: I saw now that the mule had fixed his stubborn jaws upon the entrails of the mountain, and expected every instant to see other vital organs brought to light.  I dared not and could not move.  The root gave way, allowing the mule to fall backward, and startling him with a rattling down of stones and gravel.  One foot slipped over the edge, but three stuck to the path, and the majority prevailed.  After that I saw it was safer to let my faithful beast graze on the outer edge.  All went well until he became absorbed in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>At the very first turn a boy appeared <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>It flashed upon my mind that the mule understands his business.  We imagine, egotistically, that the mule is all the time thinking about us, and that he may take umbrage at some fancied slight and leap with us down the abyss.  Now the mule does not care to make the descent in that way.  He is thinking about himself just like the rest of us.  We are only so much freight packed upon his back.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The foregoing narrative may be exaggerated in some details, but the essential facts remain, that the mule has a healthy appetite and that he looks out for himself.</P>
105.sgm:<P>A little further on I had an opportunity to judge how a passenger would conduct himself if he should be thrown from the trail.  At the point where the slope of the mountains is most abrupt, certain repairs had lately been made upon the trail, and a man was now prying large stones over the edge.  They rolled and tumbled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>It must have been a fine sight when the blasting was first done in the side of the rocky precipice: when huge masses of rock, half as big as a house, were rent from the side of the mountain and thundered down with frightful crash, cutting off huge trees and shaking the very mountains.  And now I will say again that the trail is wide and safe; the slopes on the side are seldom very steep, and the mules could not be pushed over by any available power.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Some people, in fact, prefer the old trail because it is more wild and romantic and not so well kept.  The new road has enough picturesque features to satisfy me.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I remember when the valley came in sight again, after half an hour's climbing, the first objects to catch my eye were the storage reservoirs, which dot the valley and are used in irrigation.  Their regular shapes and the margins <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>After another half-hour's ride comes a glimpse in the other direction.  Through a gap in the mountains we look for a moment behind the hills of Pasadena into the heart of the Sierra Madre.  Vistas of mountain-sides are seen on either hand, one beyond the other, the long slope of one slightly overlapping that of its nearer neighbor, offering for our inspection a succession of blue tints, becoming more and more delicate in the distance till they melt into the sky.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The mules care less for visible azure than for edible verdure, and soon carried us by this picture.  Far up the trail is a pretty scene upon our own mountain.  Suddenly we came out of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:the cool, wild forest upon a little level spot, by the spring of the mountain stream.  Here is an old camp with green grass growing up about the deserted building.  After a final winding journey around the steep southerly side of the mountain, came the first full view of the wild chaos of broken ranges toward the desert.  Then follows a gradual shaded ascent to the camp.  The world has varied panoramas of mountain scenery "set off" by the glitter of snowy peaks.  In California there are many accessible summits rising from half-tropical valleys.  Mountains which overlook the sea are without number.  There may be in America other points from which one may look down upon a "city of homes," and a "business centre" with sixty thousand busy inhabitants.  I do not know any spot apart from the mountains of Pasadena where you may put all of these in combination.  From the northerly peak of Mt. Wilson to the southerly peak of Mt. Harvard is a distance by trail along the ridge of perhaps three miles, offering a variety of points of view.  To the north and east you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>As for the prospect in the other direction, it shows at once that the way to print upon the mind a map of California's physical formation is to see it <HI REND="italics">a la</HI>
105.sgm:<P>One would require but a few more well selected stations to map out all of Southern California.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The several valleys of which Los Angeles is the commercial capital are stretched out before us like perfectly level plains, divided by ranges of hills.  In the distance lies the glistening Pacific, with the blue outlines of Catalina and more distant islands etched upon the western sky.  This picture is sometimes so distinct that you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>There is a varied interchange of signals between the mountains and the valley.  At noon the people here talk with their Pasadena friends by gleaming flashlight.  Then there are the reservoirs scattered over the valley.  In certain lights they are not seen at all, but in line with the sun they send up great flash signals themselves, and just after sunset they are always seen reflecting the calm twilight.  An hour after sunset our camp-fire is lighted.  As we stand by it, the horizon seems to have retired for the night.  There is continuous sky, shading without a break into the shadows below.  Gazing dreamily down, I am startled by the flashing forth of a hundred brilliant stars from what was the valley below.  They disappear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Those wishing a scientific explanation of these phenomena must consult the Pasadena Electric Lighting Company, except as to the stray Pleiades, which seem to have some connection with the lights of the Raymond Hotel.</P>
105.sgm:<P>But what is that dim and curious meteor slowly moving toward the spot where Los Angeles used to be?  Perhaps it is the headlight which heralds the coming of the belated overland train.  Suddenly I see out of the darkness beyond Pasadena the blazing forth of a majestic cross, of wavering, uneven outline, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>You will note that I have abstained from hauling the sun above the eastern Sierras in the morning, and from tucking it under the Pacific at night.  This rearrangement of ponderous constellations is all that my strength and my other engagements will permit.  Those who want to know the glories of the sunset and moonlight must climb Mt. Wilson themselves.</P>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>CATCHING UP ON THE KITE-SHAPED TRACK.</P>
105.sgm:<P>NOT the kite-shaped track of new-made trotting records and pneumatic tires, but a track upon which you may pass a pleasant day riding after the iron horse.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The route extends easterly from Los Angeles to San Bernardino <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Taking the traveller back and forth across the central part of Southern California as it does, the kite-shaped trip is naturally a favorite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The schedule of trains allows of convenient stop-overs, and several may be made to advantage.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Pasadena and Riverside of course must not be passed by.  A short stay at Orange or Anaheim gives an interesting glimpse of a region where orange culture is combined with that of other citrus fruits, as well as the grape and olive.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Aside from these points, the most interesting feature of the trip is the "loop" beyond San Bernardino.  The town of San Bernardino is a thriving business centre.  Perhaps it is on this account that its appearance from the car window is not as attractive as that of Riverside or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Upon the "loop" a stop should be made at Redlands, an interesting spot, where the successful culture of oranges is carried on at a much higher elevation than was thought possible until a few years ago.  There is never any frost there to injure the fruit.  The Hotel Terracina, on the heights, has a wondrous view, and the Smiley brothers, of "Lake Mohunk" celebrity, have fine grounds and homes on Can&tilde;on Crest, and are thinking of building a hotel.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The circuit of the "loop" reminds me of roving around upon the rim of a very large and shallow spoon, tilted upward toward Mentone at the smaller end.  San Bernardino is 1075 feet above the sea, and Mentone 1640 feet.  At that point we have nearly climbed the foot-hills, and are very close to the great mountains themselves.  As we skim around upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Four miles from San Bernardino is the station of Arrowhead, from which we have a near view of the peak of nature which gives the place its name.  It is a bare, gravelly tract on the side of the mountain, which, in contrast with the chaparral about it, takes the shape of an Indian arrowhead with a portion of the shaft attached.  Covering a large area, the arrowhead is a landmark for many miles around.  I could not help thinking that if a gang of Italian laborers were employed for a few days sharpening the outline of the arrowhead by cutting away bushes along the edge, and setting out others judiciously in the converted background, the effect of this interesting natural phenomenon might be much brightened.  There are hotsprings at Arrowhead, and a hotel renders the varied attractions of the place available.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>While we are kiting along let me tell you what I know about baskets made by the Indian women of the Pacific Coast of now and long ago, the last considered valuable and now commanding high prices.  There are several experts on this subject in Pasadena--Mrs. Lowe, ex-Mayor Lukens, Mrs. Jeanne C. Carr, and Mrs. Bell Jewett, who has the most precious collection of all.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Mrs. Lowe has gathered together for her Basement Museum, which any State would be proud to own, all that she could find of special interest relative to the Indians of California--clothing, headdress, weapons, medicine charms, money, beads, and of course many baskets, for baskets are as indispensable to the Indian as the reindeer to the Esquimau.  They were used as cradles, caps for the head when carrying burdens, wardrobes for garments not in use, granaries on roof, sifters for pounded meal, for carrying water, and keeping it for use, for cooking, receptacles for money, plaques to gamble on, and so on.  And the basket plays an important part in their legends and folk-lore.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>Mrs. Lowe determined to preserve these specimens, as tourists were rapidly carrying away all they could find of such relics, and soon the State would be without proofs to tell how the Indian of the past lived and fed and fought, bought and sold, how he was dressed, and how he amused himself.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Mrs. Ellen B. Farr, an artist in Pasadena who is famous for her success in painting the pepper tree and the big yellow poppy, with its reddish orange line changing toward petal tips to pale lemon, has also devoted her skill to pictures of such baskets grouped effectually--baskets now scattered all over the world, each with its own history, its own individuality, and no duplicate, for no two baskets are ever exactly similar.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The true way to obtain these baskets is, go a-hunting for them, not buy them at stores.  They are handed down for generations as heirlooms originally, never intended for sale, and with the needles used in weaving, made usually of a fine bone from a hawk's wing, and the gambling dice, are the carefully concealed family treasures.  But sometimes by going yourself to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Figures of men are sometimes woven in: those with heads on represent the victorious warriors; those decapitated depict the braves vanquished by the fighters of their special tribe.  An open palm is sometimes seen; this is an emblem of peace.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>Willow wands and stiff long-stemmed grasses are gathered and dried for these baskets, then woven in coils and increased as they go on, as in a crochet stitch.  It often requires a deal of coaxing and good pay to secure one of these highly prized "Coras."</P>
105.sgm:<P>The women were as devoted to gambling as the men, and made flat trays for this purpose.  The dice were eight acorn shells, or half-walnut shells, first daubed over inside with pitch, and then inlaid with little shells which represented money.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I saw a tray and dice purchased most adroitly from an excited gambling party, who were at the time too much intoxicated to know exactly what they were doing.  After it had been paid for the owner was implored to sit down and gamble himself, hoping in this way to win more money and get back the board.  It was hard to withstand their forcible appeals, but the man ran away, and was obliged to hide all night for fear of assault.  Squaws would sometimes bet pieces of flesh from their arms when their money was gone, and many of them have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The Japanese are famous basket-makers, but they do not far excel the best work found among these untutored workwomen.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Most curious of all is the fact that a <HI REND="italics">savant</HI>
105.sgm:<P>And a lady told me that she could make herself understood by those of a certain tribe in Mexico by speaking to them in Sicilian.  Which makes me think of Joel Chandler Harris and his embarrassment, after publishing his stories of "Uncle Remus," to receive letters from learned men at home and abroad, inquiring how this legend that he had given was the same as one in India, or Egypt, or Siam.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The art of basketry is rapidly deteriorating, and will soon be lost unless Indian children in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The Mexican drawn-work is seen everywhere for sale, and at moderate prices--so moderate that any one is foolish to waste eyesight in imitating it.  Each stitch has a name, and is full of meaning to the patient maker.</P>
105.sgm:<P>One can easily spend a good deal for curios, such as plaques, cups, vases, napkin-rings, plates and toothpicks of orange wood, bark pin-cushions, cat's-eye pins, etchings of all the missions in India ink, wild-flower, fern, and moss work, and, perhaps most popular of all, the pictures on orange wood of the burro, the poppy, and pepper and oranges.  Or, if interested in natural history, you can secure a horned toad, a centipede, or a tarantula, alive or dead, and "set up."</P>
105.sgm:<P>A horned toad is more easy to care for than the average baby alligator of Florida, and as a pet is not more exacting, as it can live six months without eating.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>"Why do some women like horrible things for pets?</P>
105.sgm:<P>"Mother Eve set the example, and ever since serpents have been in the front rank of woman's eccentric loves.  Cleopatra was fond of tigers and ferocious beasts, but she turned at last to a snake as the most fitting creature to do her bidding.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"Centuries ago the queens of Egypt made pets of horned toads, and the ugly little reptiles became things of state, and their lives more sacred than the highest ministers to the court.  Daughters of the Nile worshipped crocodiles."</P>
105.sgm:<P>A very intelligent man, who has every reason to speak with authority about the tarantula as found in California, declares that it is not dangerous.  He says they live in ground that has not been disturbed by the plough.  Their hole in the ground is about three fourths of an inch in diameter and twelve or fourteen inches deep, with only a web over the top.  Many tell us that the tarantula has a lid on the top of his house, but this is incorrect, as that belongs to the trap-door spider.  It is sold, however, here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:as a tarantula's nest.  This creature dislikes the winter rains as much as the tourist does, and fills up the entrance of the nest in October and November, not appearing until May.  The greater number are found on adobe and clay soil.  Tarantulas never come out at night; the male sometimes appears just before sundown, but the female is seldom seen away from home unless disturbed.  They seem to have a model family life.  Mr. Wakely, who has caught more of these spiders than any living man, does not seem to dread the job in the least.  One man goes ahead and places a small red flag at the opening of the nest; the next man pours down a little water, which brings Mr. T--up to see what is the matter, and then Mr. W--quietly secures it with a pair of pincers and puts it in a bottle, and has thus succeeded in catching hundreds, but has never had a bite.  (This last line reminds me of the amateur angler.)  He tells me that there seems to be a general impression that a tarantula will jump into the second-story window of a house, and, springing upon the neck of a young lady sitting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>There are rattlesnakes to be seen and heard about the mountains in hot weather.</P>
105.sgm:<P>As to buying precious stones, especially opals, in this part of the country, I think it is wisest to buy opals in the real old Mexico for yourselves, often very cheaply.  The prices rise rapidly here.  A water opal, however beautiful, has no commercial value.  It is but an imprisoned soap-bubble, and is apt to crumble.  There are stores where pretty colored stones can be bought, but the majority get cheated as to price.</P>
105.sgm:<P>But we are not paying proper attention to the "panorama."  Many have been led to settle here by taking this picturesque trip; and with plenty of water oranges pay splendidly.  So there is substantial wealth, ever on the increase, in these new towns.</P>
105.sgm:<P>By the way, were you ever asked to be a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Why, oh why is it, that if persons have the slightest power of being what is vaguely called "entertaining," they are expected to be ever on duty at the call of any one who feels a desire for inexpensive diversion?</P>
105.sgm:<P>At one hotel I sat by the side of an odd old man, a retired tobacco merchant of great wealth, who was ready for conversation with all new-comers, and who seemed to feel that I was not doing my full share as an entertainer for the masses.  He also had the unusual habit of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:speaking his thoughts aloud, whether complimentary or otherwise, in frank soliloquy, like that absent-minded Lord Dudley whom Sydney Smith alludes to, as meeting and greeting him with effusive cordiality, and then saying, <HI REND="italics">sotto voce</HI>
105.sgm:<P>But my friend at my elbow had very little of the <HI REND="italics">sotto</HI>
105.sgm: in his <HI REND="italics">voce</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Ahem!  I hear you can be funny."  No response from person addressed.  Then to himself: "I don't much believe she can do anything--don't look like it."  To me: "Well, now, if you <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
105.sgm: be funny, why don't you?"  I could not help laughing then.  "Yes, if you can, you ought to go into the parlor every night and show what you can do, and amuse us.  It is your duty.  Why, I told Quilletts--you know 'bout Quilletts? awfully funny feller; good company, you see--says I, `Quilletts, I like you.  Now, if you'll stay I'll give you a cottage, rent free, all summer (I've got an island home--lots of us fellers on it; great times we have); but you must agree to be funny every night, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>I replied: "Mr. Brushwood, I understand you are a dealer in tobacco?"</P>
105.sgm:<P>"Yes, mum; and you won't find finer tobacker anywhere in this world than what's got my name on it.  Here's a picture of my store.  Why, Brushwood's tobacker is known all over the United States."</P>
105.sgm:<P>"Yes?  Well, when I notice you freely distributing that tobacco, bunches of your choicest brands, papers of the very best for chewing, cigarettes by the dozen, in the parlor evenings, I'll follow on just behind you, and try to amuse as a condensed circus.  I'm not lacking in philanthropy.  I only need to be roused by your noble example, sustained by your influence."</P>
105.sgm:<P>Brushwood looked disgusted, grunted his disapproval, backed his chair out from the table, and as he walked to the door of the dining-room many heard him mutter, "She's a queer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>As the farmer remarked when he first encountered a sportsman dude, "What things a feller does meet when he hasn't got his gun!"</P>
105.sgm:<P>But the train is slowing up, and see, Judge Brown, my old friend of The Anchorage, is looking for us.  No!  No "Glenwood"; no "Arlington"; no "kerridge"!</P>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>RIVERSIDE.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Knowest thou the land where the lemon trees bloom,<LB>Where the golden orange grows in the deep thickets' gloom,<LB>Where a wind ever soft from the blue heavens blows,<LB>And the groves are of laurel and myrtle and rose?"</HI>
105.sgm:<P>YES, that describes Riverside, and reads like a prophecy.  If Pasadena is a big garden with pretty homes scattered all through its shade and flowers, then Riverside is an immense orange grove, having one city-like street, with substantial business blocks and excellent stores, two banks, one in the Evans block, especially fine in all its architecture and arrangements, and the rest is devoted by the land-owners to raising oranges and making them pay.  You will see flowers enough to overwhelm a Broadway florist, every sort of cereal, every fruit that grows, in prime <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Yes, one can get rich here by turning dust into mud.  It is said to be the richest town "per capita" in all California of the same size, $1100 being the average allowance for each person.  This is solemnly vouched for by reliable citizens.  And they have no destitute poor--a remarkable record.  The city and district are said to enjoy an annual income of $1,500,000 from the fruit alone, and there is a million of unused money in the two banks.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Irrigation is better than rain, for the orange growers can turn on a shower or a stream <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:whenever and wherever needed.  It requires courage and faith to go straight into a desert with frowning mountains, big, little, and middle-sized, all about, and not an available drop of water, and say, "I'm going to settle right here and turn this desert into a beautiful home, and start a prosperous, wealthy city.  All that this rocky, barren plain needs is water and careful cultivation, and I will give it both."  That was Judge Brown's decision, and the result shows his wisdom.  No one agreed with him; it was declared that colonists could not be induced to try it.  But he could not relinquish the idea.  He was charmed by the dry, balmy air, so different from Los Angeles.  He saw the smooth plain was well adapted for irrigation, and Santa Ana could be made to furnish all the water needed.  So that it is really to him we owe the pleasure of seeing these orchards, vineyards, avenues, and homes.  Where once the coyote and jack-rabbit had full sway, land now sells at prices from $400 to $3000 per acre.  There are no fences--at least, there is but one in all River-side.  You see everywhere fine, well-trimmed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:cypress hedges with trees occasionally cut in fantastic, elaborate designs.  There are many century plants about the grounds; they blossom in this climate after twelve years, and die after the tall homely flower has come to maturity.  The roadsides have pretty flowers planted all along, giving a gay look, and the very weeds just now are covered with blossoms.  Irrigation is carried on most scientifically, the water coming from a creek and the "cienaga," which I will explain later.  There are several handsome avenues shaded with peppers, and hedges twenty feet high, through which are obtained peeps at enchanting homes; but the celebrated drive which all tourists are expected to take is that to and fro through Magnolia Avenue, twelve miles long.  The name now seems illy chosen, as only a few magnolia trees were originally planted at each corner, and these have mostly died, so that the whole effect is more eucalyptical, palmy, and pepperaneous than it is magnolious.  People come here "by chance the usual way," and buy because they see the chance to make money.  You are told pretty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>I saw a large and prosperous place belonging to a woman of business ability, who came out all alone, took up a government grant, ploughed and planted and irrigated, sent for a sister to help her, sold land at great prices, and is now a wealthy woman.  If I had not passed through such depressing and enthusiasm-subduing experiences as an agriculturist in the East I might be tempted here.  I did look with interest at the ostrich farms, and had visions of great profits from feathers, eggs, and egg-shells.  But it takes a small fortune to get started in that business, as eggs are twenty dollars each, and the birds are sometimes five hundred dollars apiece.  And they are subject to rheumatism and a dozen other diseases, and a blow from a kicking bird will kill one.  I concluded to let that dream be unrealized.  Did you ever hear of the nervous invalid who was told by his physician to buy a Barbary ostrich and imitate him exactly for three months?  It was a capital story.  The lazy dyspeptic was completely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:cured.  As a hen woman I will remark <HI REND="italics">en passant</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Corn does not thrive.  Mr. Brown at first put down ten acres to corn.  It looked promising, but grew all to stalk.  These stalks were over twelve feet high, but corn was of no value, so he sold the stalks for eighty dollars, and started his oranges.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The English are largely interested here, and have invested two or three millions, which will pay large interest to their grandchildren.  Their long avenue is loyally named "Victoria."  A thrifty Canadian crazed by the "boom," the queerest mental epidemic or delusion that ever took hold of sensible people, bought some stony land just under Rubidoux Mountain for $4000.  It was possibly worth $100, but in those delirious days many did much worse.  It is amusing to see what hard work and water and good taste will do for such a place.  He has blasted the rocks, made fountains and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Riverside, while leading the orange-producing section of Southern California, is not exactly the location which would have been selected by the original settlers had they possessed the experience of the producers of today.  The oranges do not have to be washed, as in some other places; they are not injured by smut or scale; the groves are faultless in size of trees, shape, and taste of fruit.  One orange presented to me weighed thirty-one ounces.  But the growers, having lost $1,000,000 by Jack Frost several years ago, are obliged now to resort to the use of lighted tar-pots on cold nights to make a dense smudge to keep the temperature above the danger line.  One man uses petroleum in hundred-gallon casks, one for each acre, from which two pipes run along between the rows of trees, with half a dozen elbows twenty feet apart, over which are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>I find more: fine and charming drives, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Still, above all, and permeating every other interest, is the <HI REND="italics">orange</HI>
105.sgm:.  As to dampness, a physician threatened with consumption, and naturally desirous of finding the driest air, began while at Coronado Beach a simple but sure test for comparative degrees of "humidity" by just hanging a woolen stocking out of his window at night.  At that place it was wet all through, quite moist at Los Angeles, very much less so at Pasadena, dry as a bone or red herring or an old-fashioned sermon at Riverside.  Stockings will tell!  (From April to September is really the best time to visit Coronado.)  I experienced a very sudden change from a warm, delightful morning to an afternoon so penetrating by cold that I really suffered during a drive, although encased in the heaviest of Jaeger flannels, a woolen dress, and a heavy wrap.  I thought of the rough buffalo coat my uncle, a doctor, used <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>In one day you can sit under the trees in a thin dress and be too warm if the sun is at its best, and then be half frozen two hours later if the wind is in earnest and the sun has retired.  In the sun, Paradise; in shade, protect yourself!</P>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>A LESSON ON THE TRAIN.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The Schoolmistress Abroad."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>ALL through Southern California I hear words of whose meaning I have no idea until they are explained.  For instance, a friend wrote from San Diego in February: "Do not longer delay your coming; the mesas are already bright with wild-flowers."  A mesa is a plateau, or upland, or high plain.  And then there are fifty words in common use retained from the Spanish rule that really need a glossary.  As, arroyo, a brook or creek; and arroyo seco, a dry creek or bed of extinct river.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Alameda, an avenue.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Alamitos, little cotton-wood.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Alamo, the cotton-wood; in Spain, the poplar.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Alma, soul.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>That is all I have learned in A's.  Then for B's.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I asked at Riverside what name they had for a big, big rock that rose right out of the plain, and was told it was a "butte."  That gave a meaning to Butte City, and was another lesson.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Banos means baths, and barranca is a small ravine.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Then, if we go on alphabetically, cajon, pronounced <HI REND="italics">cahone</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Calaveras, skull.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Campo, plain.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Cienaga, a marshy place.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Campo sancto, cemetery.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Canyon or can&tilde;on, gulch.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Cruz, cross.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Colorado, red.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Some of the Spanish words are so musical it is a pleasure to repeat them aloud; as:</P>
105.sgm:<P>Ensenada, bright.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Escondido, hidden.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Fresno means ash.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I inquired the meaning of "Los Gatos," and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Goleta, the name of another town, means schooner.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The Spanish <HI REND="italics">j</HI>
105.sgm: nearly always has the sound of <HI REND="italics">h</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Jacinto, Hyacinth.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Jose&acute;, Joseph.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Lago is lake; pond, laguna; and for a little lake the pretty name lagunita.  "Lagunita Rancho" is the name of an immense fruit ranch in Vacaville--and, by the way, vaca is cow.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Madre is mother; nevada, snowy.</P>
105.sgm:<P>San Luis Obispo is San Luis the Bishop.</P>
105.sgm:<P>El Paso is The Pass.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Pueblo, a town.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Pinola is parched corn ground fine between stones, eaten with milk.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Pinoche, chopped English walnuts cooked in brown sugar--a nice candy.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Rancho, a farm; and rio, river.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>Everything is a ranch out here; the word in the minds of many stands for home.  A little four-year-old boy was overheard praying the other day that when he died the Lord would take him to His ranch.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Sacramento is the sacrament.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Sierra, saw-toothed; an earthquake is a temblor.</P>
105.sgm:<P>San and Santa, the masculine and feminine form of saint.</P>
105.sgm:<P>As the men who laid out a part of New York evidently travelled with a classical dictionary, and named the towns from that, as Rome, Syracuse, Palmyra, Utica, so the devout Spanish explorer named the places where he halted by the name of the saint whose name was on the church calendar for that day.  And we have San Diego (St. James), San Juan (St. John), San Luis, San Jose&acute;, San Pedro, Santa Inez, Santa Maria, Santa Clara, and, best of all, Santa Barbara, to which town we are now going.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The Mexican dialect furnishes words which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Adobe, sun-dried brick.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Can&tilde;on, gorge.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Tules, rush or water-weed.  (Bret Harte's <HI REND="italics">Apostle of the Tules</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Bonanza, originally <HI REND="italics">fair weather at sea</HI>
105.sgm:, now <HI REND="italics">good fortune in mining</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Fandango, dance of the people.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Corral, a place to collect stock.  (A farmer of the West never says cow-pen, or barn-yard, or farmyard, but corral.)</P>
105.sgm:<P>Cascarones, egg-shells filled with finely cut gold or silver paper, or perfumes, broken on head of young man, in friendly banter or challenge to a dance.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Burro, small kind of donkey.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Broncho, wild, untamed animal.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Sombrero, hat.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Rebozo, scarf.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Serape, blanket.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Lariat, rawhide rope.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Hacienda, estate.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>While we are rattling along there is so little to see until we reach the ocean, that we may as well be recalling a few more facts worth knowing.  At Riverside I learned that the leaf of the orange tree was larger when it first came out than later.  It grows smaller as it matures.  And most people say that the fig tree has no blossom, the fruit coming right out of the branch.  But there is a blossom, and you have to cut the fruit open to find it.  Just split a young fig in two and notice the perfect blossom in the centre.</P>
105.sgm:<P>They say it takes two Eastern men to believe a Californian, but it only takes one Eastern woman to tell true stories which do seem almost too big for belief.  One man got lost in a mustard field, and he was on horseback too.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I saw at San Diego a tomato vine only eight months old, which was nineteen feet high and twenty-five feet wide, and loaded full of fruit in January.  A man picking the tomatoes on a stepladder added to the effect.  And a Gold of Ophir rose-bush at Pasadena which had 200,000 blossoms.  This is vouched for by its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>"A farmer raised one thousand bushels of popcorn and stored it in a barn.  The barn caught fire, and the corn began to pop and filled a ten-acre field.  An old mare in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>As to serious farming, and how it pays in this part of the State, I have clipped several paragraphs from the papers, and will give three as samples of the whole.  I desire also to communicate the cheerful news that there are no potato bugs to make life seem too hard to bear.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"RAISED ON TWENTY ACRES.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"How much land do I need in California? is a question often asked.  The answer is readily made: as much as you can profitably and economically work.  A gentleman has made the following exhibit in the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce: `Raised on twenty acres of ground, 2500 boxes of oranges, 1500 boxes of lemons, 37,000 pounds grapes, 2000 pounds of pears, 35,000 pounds of apples, 15,000 pounds of berries, black and red, 1000 pounds of English walnuts.  Besides nectarines, apricots, plums, three crops of potatoes, 500 pounds of crab-apples, and one acre of alfalfa kept for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>"PROFITS OF BERRY CULTURE.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"Speaking of the profits of growing straw-berries in Southern California, the Covina <HI REND="italics">Argus</HI>
105.sgm: gives some interesting facts and figures.  That paper says: `One of the growers stated to us that last year he picked and shipped from three acres the enormous amount of fourteen tons.  These berries brought as high as fifteen cents and as low as four cents per pound, but netted an average of about eight cents per pound, or $2240.  That would make an acre of berries produce a cash return of $746.66 2/3, which, considering the shortness of the berry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>"PROFIT IN ALMONDS.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"M. Treat, an authority on almond culture, has contributed the following to the Woodland <HI REND="italics">Mail</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"`Almond trees live and do well for fifty years, and in some places in Europe when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>At Saugus Junction Mr. Tolfree has established one of his famous restaurants, where I can conscientiously urge you to get out and dine.  Every course is delicious.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Ventura County is partially devoted to the culture of Beans.  I use a capital because Beans represent Culture, or are associated with it in one State at least, and the very meaning of the word is property, money, from the French <HI REND="italics">biens</HI>
105.sgm: --goods.  I wonder how many of my Boston friends knew that!  I did not until a friend showed it to me in Brewer's phrase-book, where I also learned that beans played an important part in the politics of the Greeks, being used in voting by ballot.  I always had a liking for beans, but I have a profound respect for them since viewing the largest Lima Bean Ranch in the world, belonging to my friend Mr. D. W. Thompson, of Santa Barbara.  There are 2500 acres of rich land, level as a house floor, bounded by a line of trees on one side and the ocean on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>And all along the way fine ranches are seen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:where beans are seen growing alone, or planted between the long even rows of fruit trees.  Mr. Thompson also owns a large hog ranch.  But dear me!  We are now skirting the beautiful ocean curve which leads to the "Channel City"--so near the beach that the waves almost touch the rails and the dash of the surf seems under the cars.  See how fine a situation!  The coast line taking a sudden and most fortunate turn, the trend of mountain range and plain land is east and west, instead of north and south.  Sheltered by mountains and mesas, and nestled in the green foot-hills, with the ocean breeze tempered by a chain of islands, making a serene harbor, Santa Barbara has much to make it the rival of San Diego and Pasadena.  Pork and beans must now give way to legend and romance, martyred virgin, holy monks, untutored "neophytes," handsome Castilians, dashing Mexicans, energetic pioneers, the old Spanish, the imported Chinese, the eastern element now thoroughly at home, and the inevitable, ubiquitous invalid, globe-trotter, and hotel habitue&acute;--each type or stratum as distinctly marked as in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:a pousse cafe&acute;, or jelly cake.  What a comparison!  I ask Santa Barbara's pardon, and beg not to be struck with lightning, or destroyed by gunpowder.--" <HI REND="italics">Yes, to the Arlington</HI>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Saints will aid if men will call,<LB>For the blue sky bends o'er all."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>SWEET sixteen and an "awful dad."  Santa Barbara and Dioscurus.  Such a cruel story, and so varied in version that the student of sacred legend gets decidedly puzzled.  The fair-haired daughter was advised secretly by Origen, who sent a pupil disguised as a physician to instruct her in the Christian faith.  She insisted on putting three windows instead of two into the bathroom of the tower to which her father sent her, either to prevent her from marrying or to imprison her until she would wed one of the many gay young suitors.  These three windows showed her belief in the Trinity, which she could not have learned from Origen, as among Christians he was regarded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Refusing to recant, Barbara was arraigned and condemned to death.  Her energetic paternal evidently had heard the maxim, "If you want anything done, do it yourself."  His heavy blows fell soft as feathers.  She seemed in sweet slumber.  So he drew his sword, cut off her head, and was instantly killed by lightning from Heaven.  Thus ends the history of two "Early Fathers."</P>
105.sgm:<P>But sweet St. Barbara will never be forgotten.  She is the patroness of artillery soldiers, and protects from lightning and sudden death.  In the many pictures where she appears she carries a feather, or the martyr's sword and palm, or a book; and the three windows are often seen.  She is the only Santa who bears the cup and wafer.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>The appreciative Spaniards honored her memory by bestowing her pretty name on the choicest spot of the coast, a belt of land seventy miles long and thirty-five wide, from Point Concepcion to Buena Ventura.  No one can dare to doubt this tragic tale, for Barbara's head may still be seen preserved as a relic in the temple of All Saints at Rome.  I do not want to be too severe in my estimate of the Roman noble, Dioscurus.  An old lady who never spoke ill of any one, when called upon to say something good of the devil, said, "We might all imitate his persistence;" and this impulsive demon was certainly a creature who, if he had an unpleasant duty confronting him, attended to it himself.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The first navigator who landed on the coast of Santa Barbara, or on one of the four islands, was Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, in 1542.  He is buried on San Miguel (pronounced <HI REND="italics">Magell</HI>
105.sgm: ).  The Indians (and the entire Indian population at that time amounted to 22,000) were exceedingly glad to welcome the strangers, much better behaved than those found at San Diego, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>These Channel Indians let their hair grow so long that they could make braids and fasten them round the face with stone rings.  The visitors spoke of the "Island of the Bearded People."  They had substantial brush huts, supported by pillars bearing inscriptions supposed to allude to their religion, and they enjoyed dancing to the music of bone flutes.  For <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Cabrillo's men found a primitive temple on one of the islands, and in it an unknown god or idol.  One of the eight original tribes had a form of worship strongly resembling a Turkish bath.  The men sat round a hot fire until drenched in perspiration; then plunged into a pool of cold water.  The women were not permitted to be devout in this "cleanliness next to godliness" manner.  It was a luxury and prerogative the noble braves wanted entirely for themselves.  (We see something similar in our own progressive, enlightened churches, where women are expected to provide and pack clothing for missionary boxes, attend unfailingly on the stated means of grace, visit and nurse the sick and poor members, deny themselves for charity, listen reverently to stupid discourses on the unknown, delivered with profound certainty that approaches omniscience, but are not allowed to "speak out in meetin'," or to have the honor of being represented by women delegates at denominational conventions, or clubs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>When Father Junipero Serra reached Santa Barbara on his mission-starting pilgrimage, he sent for Mexican artisans, who taught his converts all the industrial arts.  They were taught to support themselves, then a piece of ground was parcelled out to each, with a yoke of oxen and farming utensils.  Serra formed eleven missions; ten were added later.  He built the great aqueduct which is still used in Santa Barbara.  All honor to his memory!  "There lingers around Santa Barbara more of the aroma and romance of a bygone civilization, when the worthy Padres set an example of practical Christianity to the Indian aborigines that we would do well to emulate, than is found elsewhere in the State."</P>
105.sgm:<P>In the good old days a person could travel from San Diego to San Francisco and not expend one shilling.  The Mission Fathers would furnish saddle, horse, or a comfortable bed, meals, and the Spanish host would leave in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Would you like to see a specimen of the Indian dialect used by the "Bearded People"?  I can count to five in the Siujtu language--or, at least, I don't care to go much further: paca, sco, masa, scu, itapaca; twenty is sco-quealisco; and to-morrow, huanahuit.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The islands are now only occupied by flocks of sheep, sheared twice a year, and paying their owners a good profit; $100,000 one year from Santa Rosa alone.  The wool gets full of seed, and it is not the finest quality, but this is counterbalanced by the quantity.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Many large abalone shells are found on San Miguel.  They are pried off with a crow-bar, the shells are polished for sale, made into buttons, etc., and the meat is dried and sent to China, where it is ground and made into soup.  It has been used here, and pronounced by some to be equal to terrapin, and by others to closely resemble leather.</P>
105.sgm:<P>These islands are always a delight to look <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>That's what this climate does for a goat.  I do not dare to make many statements in regard to novelties in natural history since one poor woman poetized upon the coyote "howling" in the desert, and roused hundreds of critics to deny that coyotes ever howled.  And a scientific student came to Santa Barbara not so long ago, and found on one of these islands a species <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>If it were not for these blunders I would state that roosters seem to keep awake most of the night in Southern California, and can be heard crowing at most irregular hours.  Considering the risks, I refrain.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The islands were named by a pious priest, who made the map; and those we see in looking out from Santa Barbara are San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, Ana, Capa.  San Nicholas Island is interesting as having been the abode for sixteen years of a solitary Indian woman, a feminine Robinson Crusoe, without even a Friday, who was left by mistake when the rest of the Indians were carried away by order of the Mission Fathers.  Two of the men who at last succeeded in finding her gave their testimony, which has been preserved; and one of them, Charlie Brown, is still alive, and likes to tell the strange story.  It seems she had run back to get her child, and the ship went off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>"We scattered off two or three hundred yards apart.  She had a little house made of brush and had a fire; she was sitting by the fire with a little knife; she was working with it.  She had a bone; all came up and looked at her; she had a heap of roots--that is what she lived on--and had little sacks to carry them in.  As soon as we sat down she put a lump of them to roast on the fire.  Finally we got ready to go, and we made signs for her to come with us.  She understood the signs for her to come with us; she picked up her things to take them on board."</P>
105.sgm:<P>She had a dress made of duck skins, sewed together with the sinews of a seal, with needles made of bone--an eye drilled through.  This dress the priests sent to Rome.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The demijohn in which she carried water was made out of rushes and stopped with asphaltum.  She was making one of these water bottles.  She heated small round stones in the fire and put them in the asphaltum, and then lined the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>She said her child was eaten up by wolves.  None of the Indians understood her dialect; finally one woman was found who could talk to her a little, who had been raised on the same island.  The woman was found in 1853.  She seemed happy and contented, and would go round to different houses and dance the Indian dances.  She was a great curiosity; twenty or thirty would go along with her.  Many who were sailing by would stop just to see her.</P>
105.sgm:<P>The other hunters had noticed small human tracks, but never could see any one.  At last several men were scattered all over the island, and Charlie Brown was the first to discover her.  He thought at first it was only a black crow sitting on a whalebone.  I give his version, as his language is far more picturesque and vivid than my paraphrase would be.  He says:</P>
105.sgm:<P>"She had built a brush fence about two feet high to break the wind.  The sun was coming in her face.  She was skinning a seal.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>"I took her by the shoulder, and I said, ` <HI REND="italics">Varmoose</HI>
105.sgm:,' and she understood at once.  I took everything she had, and she took a big seal head in basket.  We all had something to carry.  Then she had a little brand of fire, and she took that away and wobbled along with a strange kind of a step like until we came to a watering-place about fifty feet down the bank, and they all went down there and she went too, and she sat down there and we watched to see what she would do, and she washed herself over; her hair was all rotting away, a kind of bleached by the sun, and we got to the vessel and she kneeled down, and we had a stove right on deck and she crawled to the stove and we gave her a piece of biscuit and she ate like a good fellow.  It came on to blow; old man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>He was asked how she happened to be left, repeated Nidever's story, and added: "She found they were all gone, and commenced to hollo.  No answer, and hunted round and saw the tracks and found they went to lower part of the island.  When she got there found the vessel going away, and she called, `Mancyavina,' but it never came.  She put her head on the ground and laid on the ground and cried, and they never came.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"The priest here had all the Indians in Santa Barbara and Santa Inez to see if they understood her.  They could understand some words, but not all.  She got baptized, and they made her a Christian and everything.  A steamer came up from below; the captain offered to take her up and show her, but old man Nidever would not agree.  She died; they gave her green corn and melons, and they were too much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>I will only add that wild dogs were numerous, and she tamed them for friends.  The priests called her Juana Maria, and I think the name of the island should be changed in her honor.  I doubt if Santa Barbara herself could have done as well under similar circumstances.</P>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>HER CITY AND COUNTY.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Syrian apples, Othmanee quinces,<LB>Limes and citrons and apricots,<LB>And wines that are known to Eastern princes."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>IN walking through the streets of Santa Barbara you may still see the various types, but not so clearly defined as of old.  Holy Fathers still intone the service within the massive mission walls; they still cultivate the large garden, from which woman is sedulously excluded.  But the faces are German and Irish.  At a street corner two men are talking earnestly, and as you pass you get a glance from Mexican eyes, dark and soft, but the hair shows Indian blood.  A real old Mexican vaquero rides by in the genuine outfit, well worn and showing long use; next a carriage full of fashionable visitors; then a queerer combination <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:than the Anglomaniac with his trousers legs turned up if the cable reports a rainy day in London.  This is the American vaquero--usually a short, fat man with dumpy legs, who dons a flapping sombrero, buys a new Mexican saddle, wooden stirrups, and leather riata, sometimes adding a coil of rope at left side, wears the botas with a corduroy suit at dinner at hotel, and doesn't know at all how comical an appearance he presents.  The very next to pass is one of the pioneers, who, although worth a million or more, puts on no style, and surveys the mongrel in front with a twinkle in his eye.  Every one should own a horse or pony or burro here, for the various drives are the greatest charm of the place.  Through all Southern California the happy children ride to school, where the steeds, fastened to fence in front of building, wait patiently in line, like Mary's lamb.  But in Santa Barbara you see mere tots on horseback, who look as if it were no new accomplishment.  I believe the mothers put them on gentle ponies to be cared for, or safe, as mothers in general use the cradle or high-chair.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The drives are all delightful.  You cannot make a mistake; there are twenty-eight drives distinct and beautiful.  Those best known are, to the Mission Can&tilde;on, to the Lighthouse, to Montecito and Carpentera, Cooper's Ranch, through the far-famed Ojai Valley, and the stage or coaching trip to San Luis Obispo, not forgetting La Vina Grande (the big grapevine), the trunk eighteen inches in diameter, foliage covering 10,000 square feet, producing in one year 12,000 pounds of grapes; and the Cathedral Oaks.  I jotted down a few facts at the Lighthouse <HI REND="italics">a la</HI>
105.sgm: Jingle in <HI REND="italics">Pickwick Papers</HI>
105.sgm:: gleaming white tower, black lantern, rising from neat white cottage, green window-shutters, light <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The keeper, a woman, has been there over thirty years, never goes away for a single night, trim, quaint, and decided, doesn't want to be written up, will oblige her, don't believe a woman ever did so much good with a quart of kerosene daily before.  Been a widow a long time, heard of one woman, wife of lighthouse-keeper, he died, she too stout to be gotten out of the one room, next incumbent married her.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Montecito, as Roe described it, is a village of charming gardens and green lawns, with a softer climate even than Santa Barbara--a most desirable situation for an elegant country retreat.  I had the privilege of visiting the home of Mr. W. P. Gould, a former resident of Boston, who has one of the most perfect places I have ever seen.  He has been experimenting this year with olive oil in one room of his large house for curing lemons, and has perfected a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>This new process has been purchased by a company who are going to try to give the country what it has never known before--pure olive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Few appreciate the medicinal value of olive oil.  Nations making use regularly of this and the fruit are freed from dyspepsia.  A free use in the United States would round out Brother Jonathan's angular spareness of form, and make him less nervous and less like the typical Yankee of whom the witty Grace Greenwood said: "He looks as if the Lord had made him and then pinched him."  One does not see the orange groves here, but the lemon trees and walnuts and olives are an agreeable change--just for a change.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"Who ever thinks of connecting such a commonplace article of diet as the lemon with the romantic history of ill-fated Anne Boleyn?  Yet, indirectly, she was the cause of its first introduction into England, and so into popular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>We hear nothing of irrigation, but almost everything will thrive without it.  The soil grows well all varieties of fruits found in the Eastern and New England States, besides all the semi-tropical fruits, as guavas, loquats, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The number of native trees seems small, but trees have been naturalized here from every part of the world.  The pepper tree is from Peru, also the quinine tree: from Chili, the monkey tree and the Norfolk Island pine.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Mr. Cooper imported the eucalyptus from Australia.  It grows rapidly, and is planted for windbreaks.  It is used for firewood, and when cut down nearly to the ground will start up with the same old courage and ambition.  Its roots are so eager for water that they make long detours, sometimes even climbing up and down a stone wall, if it is in their route, or into a well.  From the same country comes the acacia, the rubber tree, and a large number of shrubs.  New Zealand contributes her share, and to China and Japan they are indebted for the camphor tree, the gingko, the loquat, and the chestnuts.  To South Africa they are indebted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>One sees side by side here, and in Pasadena, trees from almost opposite climes: the New England elm and a cork tree, a cedar of Lebanon and a maple or an English oak.  Then the glorious palm--twenty-two varieties in Montecito Valley alone.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Sydney Smith said of the fertility of Australia, "Tickle her with a hoe and she laughs with a harvest."  But in California even the hoe is not needed, for "volunteer crops" come up all by themselves, and look better than ours so carefully cultivated.  They say that if a Chinaman eats a watermelon under a tree the result is a fine crop of melons next year.  And I read of a volunteer tomato plant ploughed down twice that measured twelve feet square, and bore thousands of small red tomatoes.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Alfalfa is an ever-growing crop--can be garnered five times each year.</P>
105.sgm:<P>And as for flowers, I really cannot attempt to enumerate or describe in detail.  There are hundreds of varieties of roses.  They were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>A friend sent me twenty-five large bunches of the choicest roses from her garden one morning in April, each bunch a different variety.  Their roses are shipped in large quantities to San Francisco, and Chicago has her churches decorated at Easter from the rose gardens of Santa Barbara.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Honey naturally is thought of.  Apiculture here is a great business.  The bee has to be busy all day long and all through the year--no rest.  One ingenious fellow proposed crossing the working bee with the firefly, so it could work all night long by its own lantern.  But this is better.  I hear wondrous stories of bees getting into cracks of church towers or upper stories, and bulging out the buildings with their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>A clergyman writing of Santa Barbara County says that twenty-five years ago all their vegetables were imported.  Now beans yield a ton to the acre, potatoes two hundred and fifty bushels per acre, and he has seen potatoes that weighed six, seven, and eight and a half pounds--as much as an ordinary baby; beets, seventy-five tons to the acre; carrots, thirty.  Mr. Webster once declared in Congress that this State could never raise a bushel of grain.  Corn yields fifty bushels to the acre; barley, sixty; wheat, thirty.  Others give much higher records: corn, one hundred and thirty bushels; barley, eighty; potatoes, four hundred; forty tons of squashes, four tons of hay, sixty tons of beets.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I have spoken of stock-raising.  Dairying is a profitable industry.  Poultry farming a little uncertain.  If interested in mining there is much to explore.  Just in this county are found gold, silver, copper, asphaltum, bituminous rock, gypsum, quicksilver, natural gas, and petroleum.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>And what sort of a climate does one find?  Santa Barbara is an all-year-round resort.  It has all that one could ask.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The mountains look on Marathon,<LB>And Marathon looks on the sea."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>It is a perpetual summer--sometimes a cold and rainy June, sometimes a little too warm, sometimes a three days' sand-storm, disagreeable and trying; but it is always June, as we in New England know June.  At least it is Juney from 9 A.M. until 4 P.M.  Just before sunset the temperature falls.  Then when the sun goes rapidly in or down it is like being out at sea.  And to a sensitive patient, with nerves all on outside, chilled by the least coolness, it is unpleasantly piercing.</P>
105.sgm:<P>When any one describes Santa Barbara to you as a town <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Where winds are hushed nor dare to breathe aloud,<LB>Where skies seem never to have borne a cloud,"</HI>
105.sgm:<P>remember that this applies truthfully to "a Santa Barbara day," but <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
105.sgm: to all days.  Surf <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The temperature during the day varies little.  I see that one resident compares it with May in other parts of the country.  I think he has never tried to find a picnic day in early May in New England.  He says: "Our coldest month is warmer than April at Philadelphia, and our warmest one much cooler than June at same place."  They did have one simoon in 1859, when the mercury rose to 133&deg;, and stayed there for eight hours.  Animals and birds died, trees were blasted and burned, and gardens ruined.  But that was most "unusual."</P>
105.sgm:<P>Flannels are worn the year round.  Average of rain, seventeen inches.  There are sixty-one mineral and medicinal springs in California that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Farming is comparatively easy.  But grapevines are smitten by a mysterious disease called "cellular degeneration," and phylloxera; a black scale that injures orange and olive, and a white scale that is worse.  Apples are not free from worms; the gopher is sure to go for every root it can find.  There was a serpent even in the original Eden.  The historian remarks: "The cloddish, shiftless farmer is perhaps safer in Massachusetts."  I think of experiences at "Gooseville," and decide not to buy, nor even rent a ranch, nor accept one if offered.  "Fly to ills I know not of?"  No, thank you!</P>
105.sgm:<P>I'm tired now of agriculture and climate, and will turn to less practical themes.  You sympathize.  We will stop and begin a new chapter, with a hope of being more interesting.</P>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>IN GALA DRESS.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The sun is warm, the sky is clear,<LB>The waves are dancing, fast and bright;<LB>Both isles and snowy mountains wear<LB>The purple noon's transparent light."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>TO see Santa Barbara at its best you must go there for the Floral Carnival.  Then at high noon, on a mid-April day, all State Street is brilliantly decorated with leaves of the date-palm, pampa plumes, moss combined with tropical foliage, calla-lilies, wild-flowers, bamboo, immortelles, branches of pepper trees, evergreens, lemon boughs laden with yellow fruit, and variegated shrubs.  Draperies of white and gold, with green or red in contrast, or blue and white, in harmony with red flowers, or floral arches draped with fish-nets bestrewn with pink roses; or yellow alone in draperies combined with the poppy, or gray moss and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:roses.  No one fails to respond to the color summons for the day of days.  The meat-markets are tastefully concealed with a leafy screen and callas.  The undertaker makes his place as cheerful as possible with evergreens, roses, and red geraniums.  The drugstore is gaily trimmed, and above the door see the great golden mortar made of marigolds.  The Mexican and Californian colors are often flung out, and flags are flying from many windows.  The long broad street is a blaze of glory; the immense audience, seated on tiers of benches, wait patiently, then impatiently, for the expected procession; and as many more people are standing in line, equally eager.  Many have baskets or armfuls of flowers, with which to pelt the passing acquaintance.  There are moments of such intense interest that everything is indelibly and eternally photographed.  I see, as I write, the absolutely cloudless sky of perfect blue, the sea a darker shade, equally perfect, the white paved street, the kaleidoscope of color, the fluttering pennants, the faces of the crowd all turned in one direction, and hark! the band is really <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:coming, the beginning of the pageant is just seen, and now sea, sky, flags, crowds are no more regarded, for the long-talked-of parade is here.  See advancing the Grand Commander and his showy aids, gay Spanish cavaliers, the horses stepping proudly, realizing the importance of the occasion, the saddles and bridles wound with ribbons or covered with flowers.  And next the Goddess of Flowers, in canopy-covered shell, a pretty little Mayflower of a maiden, with a band of maids of honor, each in a dainty shell.  The shouts and applause add to the excitement, and flowers are hurled in merry war at the cavaliers, and the goddess and her attendants.  Next comes the George Washington coach, modelled after the historic vehicle, occupied by stately dames and courtly gentlemen in colonial array; even the footmen are perfection in the regulation livery of that period.  Solemn and imposing this may be, but they get a merciless shower of roses, and one of the prizes.  And do look at the haymakers!  Oh, that is charming!  Country girls and boys on a load of new-mown hay, with broad-brimmed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:hats, and dresses trimmed with wild-flowers.  And now the advance-guard is coming down again; they have just turned at the head of the line, and it is already a little confusing.  But the judges!  How can they keep cool, or even think, with such a clamor of voices, and guests chattering thoughtlessly to them.  Here comes a big basket on wheels, handle and all covered with moss and roses.  Four girls in pink silk trimmed with moss stand within, bearing shields of pink roses to protect their laughing faces from excess of attention.  What a lovely picture!  Another basket just behind covered entirely with marguerites; the wheels also are each a marguerite, the white horses with harness covered with yellow ribbon--so dainty, so cool.  Is it better than the other?  And here is a Roman chariot, a Spanish market-wagon, a phaeton covered with yellow mustard, a hermit in monastic garb; then Robin Hood and his merry men, and Maid Marian in yellow-green habit, Will Scarlet and Friar Tuck in green doublets, yellow facings, bright green felt hats, bows and quivers flower-trimmed, even the tiny <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Roses, roses, roses, roses!  How they fly and fall as the fleeting display is passing!  Thirty thousand on one carriage.  Roses cover the street.  And yet the gardens don't seem stripped.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:Where millions are blooming thousands are not missed.  And not roses alone, but every flower of field and garden and conservatory is honored and displayed.  Now the contestants are driving up to the grand stand to secure silken banners.  Every one looks a little bit weary in procession and audience.  Is it over?  I murmur regretfully:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"All that's bright must fade,<LB>The brightest still the fleetest;<LB>All that's sweet was made<LB>But to be lost when sweetest."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Yes, it is over!  Waving banners, rainbow colors, showers of blossoms, rosy faces, mimic battle, fairy scenes, the ideal realized!</P>
105.sgm:<P>This is better than the New Orleans Mardi Gras, so often marred by rain and mud, with mythological ambiguities that few can understand, and difficult to interpret in passing tableaux; better than similar display at Nice and Mentone.  <HI REND="italics">This</HI>
105.sgm:<P>We at the comparatively frozen and prosaic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>But this is only a portion of the entertainment.  There is a display of flowers at the Pavilion, where everything can be found that blooms in California, all most artistically arrayed; and more fascinating in the evening, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The tournament is exciting, where skilful riders try tilting at rings, trying to take as many rings as possible on lance while galloping by the wires on which these rings are lightly suspended--a difficult accomplishment.  Their costumes are elaborate and gay, but never <HI REND="italics">outre&grave;</HI>
105.sgm:<P>Next comes the Spanish game of "colgar," picking up ten-dollar gold pieces from the saddle, the horse at full speed.  And the gymkhana race ends the games.  Those who enter, saddle at the word "go," open an umbrella, and, taking out a cigar, light and smoke it--then see who first rides to the goal.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Last came the real <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
105.sgm:, and they ride <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>The Flower Dance at the ball, where human flowers formed intricate figures and dances for our edification and delight, was so attractive that my words are of no avail.  Picture twenty-eight young ladies, each dressed to represent a flower--hollyhock, pansy, moss, rose, morning-glory, eucalyptus blossom, pink clover, yellow marguerite, Cherokee rose, pink carnation, forget-me-not, buttercup, pink-and-white fuchsia, lily of the valley, wine-colored peony, white iris, daffodil, and so on.  They advance with slowly swaying motion, with wreaths uplifted until they reach the stage, where sit the guests of honor.  There they bow low, then lay the garlands at their feet, and retire, forming ingeniously pretty groups and figures, while bees and butterflies flit in and out.  See the bees pursuing the little pink rosebuds until at last they join hands and dance gaily away, only to be enthusiastically recalled.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>Do you ladies want to understand a little in detail about the dresses?  Of course you do.  Well, here is the yellow marguerite:</P>
105.sgm:<P>Slender petals of yellow satin falling over a skirt of white silk cre&circ;pe, a green satin calyx girdle about her waist, and golden petals drooped again from the neck of her low bodice and over her shoulders.</P>
105.sgm:<P>A handsome brunette represented a wine-colored peony in a rich costume of wine-colored velvet and satin.  The petals fell to make the skirt, and rose again from a bell sheathing the neck of her low corsage, and the cap on her dark hair was a copy of the flower.</P>
105.sgm:<P>There, you see how it is done.  But it requires genius to succeed in such an undertaking.  Look at Walter Crane's pictures of human flowers for more suggestions.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Most effective of all was the cachuca, danced by a girl of pure Castilian blood, who was dressed to symbolize the scarlet passion-flower.  The room was darkened save where she stood, and her steps and poses were full of Spanish fire and feeling, combined with poetic grace.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>Yes, it is over, but the pictures remain as freshly colored as if I saw it all but yesterday.</P>
105.sgm:<P>During the Carnival sentiment reigns supreme--that is, if you have engaged rooms far in advance, and the matter of three daily meals is settled--and portly business men become gallant, chivalrous, and even poetic.  In testimony I offer two verses sent to a lady visitor with a bunch of roses:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"We had not thought it was for aught<LB>He lingered round us, scanning,<LB>But to admire our spring attire,<LB>The south wind softly fanning.<LB>"But when we knew it was for you<LB>Our charms he sought to capture,<LB>All round the bower each budding flower<LB>Blushed pink with rosy rapture.<LB>"Lovingly,<LB>THE ROSES."</HI>
105.sgm:<P>George Eliot once said: "You love the roses--so do I!  I wish the sky would rain down roses as they rain from off the shaken bush.  Why will it not?  Then all the valleys would be pink and white, and soft to tread on.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>She never knew Santa Barbara.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I said the horses feel proud, and their owners tell me how they turn their heads to see their adornment.  And well they may, for a true Barbareno loves his horse as does the Arab, and delights in his decoration.  Easily first in this matter is Mr. W. D. Thompson, who came to Santa Barbara from Maine more than forty years ago, a nephew of the captain with whom Dana sailed.  Mr. Thompson is a progressive man, who appreciates the many improvements achieved and contemplated, but still loves to tell of the good old times when he was roughing it as a pioneer.  He has done a most important and valuable work in having a typical Mexican saddle and bridle of the most approved and correct pattern made out of the finest leather and several thousand silver dollars.  As his favorite mare stood before me with this magnificent saddle on, and her fore-legs tied with a little strap so that she could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:step daintily but not run, I never saw such a pretty sight of the kind.  This saddle and bridle, worth over $3000, are now on exhibition in Chicago.  No more significant or beautiful exhibition of the early argonautic period could be sent from Southern California, and it will surely attract constant and admiring attention.  Here is a description from the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Argonaut</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"This saddle and bridle, manufactured of bullion from Mexican dollars, are exquisite works of art.  The saddle is of typical Mexican pattern, with a high pommel, well-hollowed seat, and the most elaborate of trappings.  The leather is stamped with elegant designs, and the whole thing is a complete, costly, and elaborate equipment, of good taste and artistic design.  The saddle is studded over with silver ornaments.  The leather facings are set thick with buttons and rosettes; the pommel is encased in silver; the corners of the aprons are tipped with silver; the stirrups are faced and edged with silver half an inch thick, elaborately chased and carved.  The saddle-tree is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Everybody up and down the coast knows Dixie Thompson.  His talk is full of delightful anecdotes of the early settlers, and he has a droll, dry humor of his own that is refreshing.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>"Captain Dixie is, to all appearance, the man of most leisure in all leisurely Santa Barbara.  He and his horses and carriages are always at the service of a friend.  But while he seems to be the idlest of men, he is, in fact, an extremely capable business man who has many irons in the fire--tills much good land, has horses and cattle and pigs of the best breeds on many hills and in several rich valleys, and keeps all his affairs running in good order.  Still, he is an easy-going, not a bustling, man of business.  And it is just here that his social contrivance comes in: he has judged it expedient to form a club.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"`You see,' said he, the other day, to an old friend, `the boys don't always see me around, and sometimes they try to take a little advantage.  I find a fellow who don't haul half a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>"Don't laugh, my dear Drawer.  I believe Captain Thompson has struck an admirable idea, and one which might well have wide application.  Don't you suppose the material for such a club <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Here, as in all Southern California, you will never know anything of the real town unless you have a friend who can take you to unfrequented cross-country drives up winding paths to mesas, or upland pasture guarded by lock and key from the average tourist, and get views indescribably fine.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I am ashamed of my fellow-travellers who pick oranges by the score, and even break off boughs from the choicest and most conspicuous trees, and rush uninvited pell-mell into private grounds and quiet homes of well-bred people to see and exclaim and criticise.  Add to this nuisance the fact that hundreds of invalids come yearly to the most desirable localities, turning them into camping-grounds for bacilli.  I wonder at the singular forbearance and coutesy of the residents.</P>
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105.sgm:<P>Occasionally some one invited to speechify or air his opinion of things in general here bluntly expresses his surprise at finding everywhere so much culture, wealth, and refinement.  This is a queer reflection on the fact that this part of the State is filled with specimens of our finest families from the East.  I will frankly admit that I must be at my very best to keep up with those I have been privileged to meet here.</P>
105.sgm:<P>You must not forget when in Santa Barbara to visit the fine public library, the best adapted for the convenience of actual workers of any I have entered.  You must not fail to drive to Montecito ("little forest"), to Carpenteria and Goleta.</P>
105.sgm:<P>I also advise you to spend a morning in Mr. Ford's studio, and an afternoon with Mr. Starke and his treasures in wood-carving and inlaying, brought yearly from the Yosemite, wrought out with his own hands.  He uses nearly fifty varieties of trees in his woodwork, and few see his stock and go away without investing in a red-wood cane, a paper-knife, or an inlaid table.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>And now, looking back as we are whirled away, I find I am repeating those lines from Shelley which so exactly reproduce the picture:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The earth and ocean seem<LB>To sleep in one another's arms and dream<LB>Of waves, flowers, clouds, woods, rocks, and all that we<LB>Read in their smiles, and call reality."</HI>
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105.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
105.sgm:<P>AU REVOIR.</P>
105.sgm:<P>JUST as a woman is leaving her friends she ever has the most to chatter about.  How can I say <HI REND="italics">au revoir</HI>
105.sgm: briefly when there is so much more to tell?  I so earnestly want to give California <HI REND="italics">en verdad</HI>
105.sgm:, or in truth.  There has been too much bragging from the settlers, as in 1887 the Los Angeles <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
105.sgm:<P>There is so much that is novel in this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:wonderland that it is hard to keep cool and look at all sides.  In 1870 all vegetables and grain were imported.  Mr. Webster declared long ago in Congress that California was absolutely worthless except for mining and grazing.  The rancheros thought the land only fit for sheep to roam over.  Now great train-loads of vegetables and grain leave daily for the East; all the earliest fruit of New York, Boston, and Chicago comes from this State, and ships are carrying all these products to all parts of the world.  From north to south the State measures over 800 miles--as far as from New York to Florida--with an area of 189,000 square miles--as much as New England and the Middle States combined, throwing in Maryland.  The northern and southern portions are as unlike as Massachusetts and Florida, and the State must soon be divided.  How little is known of Northern California!  Next year I hope to describe that, with its lofty mountains, wonderful scenery, lakes of rare beauty, immense interests in grain, fruits, and mining.  This little bit along the coast is but a minute portion of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>Some statements need to be modified.  It is declared over and over that here there are no thunderstorms.  In the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
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105.sgm:<P>No malaria,<HSEP>  but rheumatism.</P>
105.sgm:<P>No cyclones,<HSEP>" wind and sand storms.</P>
105.sgm:<P>No thunderstorms,<HSEP>" earthquakes.</P>
105.sgm:<P>No mad dogs,<HSEP>" rattlesnakes and centipedes, tarantulas and scropions.</P>
105.sgm:<P>No sunstrokes,<HSEP>" chilling fogs.</P>
105.sgm:<P>All goes when the sun goes.  The climate is "outdoors."  A sunny room is essential.  The difference between noonday and midnight, temperature between sun and shade, is something to be learned and guarded against.</P>
105.sgm:<P>Each place is recommended by doctors who have regained their own health as <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"San Diego presents the most even climate, the largest proportion of fair, clear days, a sandy and absorbent soil, and the minimum amount of atmospheric moisture--all the factors requisite in a perfect climate."</P>
105.sgm:<P>In each " <HI REND="italics">peripheral resistances are reduced to a minimum</HI>
105.sgm:."  Dr. Radebaugh, of Pasadena, who, I believe, has not the normal amount of lung but has been restored to health by the air of Pasadena, where he has a large practice, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>How refreshing to find one person who does not consider his own refuge from disease an ideal health-resort!  He also owns that doctors <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>"When local jealousies have subsided, and contending climates have had their day, the thing of cardinal importance for an invalid such as you have mentioned to do when about to change his or her home will be, not to attach too much importance to this or that particular climatic condition as determined by the barometer, thermometer, hygrometer, anemometer, and other meteorological instruments, nor to lay too much stress on a difference of a few hundred or thousand feet of elevation above the sea; but choose a home where the environments will afford the invalid or valetudinarian the greatest opportunity of living out-of-doors, and of spending the hours of sunshine in riding, driving, walking, and in other ways, whereby the entrance of pure air into the lungs is facilitated.  In Pasadena the days in winter are warm enough to make outdoor life <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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105.sgm:<P>I will also quote a letter received from Dr. W. B. Berry, formerly of Montclair, N. J., who, coming to Southern California an almost hopeless invalid, is now fairly well, and will probably entirely regain his health.  He also is careful and conservative in statement, and therefore commands serious attention:</P>
105.sgm:<P>"RIVERSIDE, Cal., May 2, 1893.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"DEAR MISS SANBORN: To recommend any place to an invalid is to an experienced climate-hunter no doubt, at times, a duty,--certainly it is a duty from which he shrinks.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"One does not see so many advanced cases of pulmonary disease here as at either Asheville or Colorado Springs.  The thousands of miles of alkali, sage-brush, and desolation might explain that, but it does seem to me that a much larger proportion of consumptives are `doing well' in this country than in those.</P>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Pure dry air, pure water</HI>
105.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">clean dry soil</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Here, too, are cool walks, with sunshine or shade, as may be desired, and things on every side to interest.  For, unfortunately, the man with a sore chest has a brain and a spinal cord to be stimulated and fed, not to speak of those little heartstrings undiscovered by the anatomist, and which yet tug and pull mightily in a far country.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"In short, it would seem that any consumptive in an early stage of his disease who does not thrive at a moderate altitude would do well to come here and to stay--that is, if he will remember that all the climate is out-of-doors."</P>
105.sgm:<P>My own troublesome throat is almost as good as new, and I am proud to name my physician, <HI REND="italics">Outdoors, M.D</HI>
105.sgm:<P>I have given, according to my humble ability, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<HI REND="italics">la verdad cierta</HI>
105.sgm:<P>I came with gargle and note-book, but long ago gave up the former; and as for these jottings, I offer them to those who want to see this much-talked-of Earthly Paradise as in a verbal mirror.  And to all a cordial <HI REND="italics">au revoir</HI>
105.sgm:!<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Adieu to thee again!<LB>A vain adieu!<LB>There can be no farewell to scene like thine:<LB>The mind is colored by thy every hue."<LB></HI>
105.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<DIV><AD><P>D. APPLETON &amp; CO.'S PUBLICATIONS.APPLETONS' SUMMER SERIES.  <HI REND="italics">PEOPLE AT PISGAH</HI>
105.sgm:.  By EDWIN W. SANBORN.<LB>"A most amusing extravaganza."-- <HI REND="italics">The Critic</HI>
105.sgm:.<HI REND="italics">MR. FORTNER'S MARITAL CLAIMS, and Other Stories</HI>
105.sgm:.  By RICHARD MALCOLM JOHNSTON.<LB>"When the last story is finished we feel, in imitation of Oliver Twist, like asking for more."-- <HI REND="italics">Public Opinion</HI>
105.sgm:.<HI REND="italics">GRAMERCY PARK</HI>
105.sgm:.  A Story of New York.  By JOHN SEYMOUR WOOD, author of "An Old Beau," etc.<LB>"A realistic story of New York life, vividly drawn, full of brilliant sketches."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Advertiser</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A TALE OF TWENTY-FIVE HOURS</HI>
105.sgm:.  By BRANDER MATTHEWS and GEORGE H. JESSOP.<LB>"The reader finds himself in the midst of tragedy; but it is tragedy ending in comedy.  The story is exceptionally well told."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Traveller</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A LITTLE NORSK; or, Ol' Pap's Flaxen</HI>
105.sgm:.  By HAMLIN GARLAND, author of "Main Traveled Roads," etc.<LB>"There is nothing in story-telling literature to excel the naturalness, pathos, humor, and homelike interest with which the little heroine's development is traced."-- <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn Eagle</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">TOURMALIN'S TIME CHEQUES</HI>
105.sgm:.  By F. ANSTEY, author of "Vice Versa&circ;," "The Giant's Robe," etc.<LB>"Each cheque is good for several laughs."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">FROM SHADOW TO SUNLIGHT</HI>
105.sgm:.  By the MARQUIS OF LORNE.<LB>"In these days of princely criticism--that is to say, criticism of princes--it is refreshing to meet a really good bit of aristocratic literary work, albeit the author is only a prince-in-law."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Tribune</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">ADOPTING AN ABANDONED FARM</HI>
105.sgm:.  BY KATE SANBORN.<LB>"A sunny, pungent, humorous sketch."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Times</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">ON THE LAKE OF LUCERNE, and Other Stories</HI>
105.sgm:.  By BEATRICE WHITBY.<LB>"The stories are pleasantly told in light and delicate vein, and are sure to be acceptable to the friends Miss Whitby has already made on this side of the Atlantic."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Bulletin</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>Each, 16mo, boards, with specially designed cover, 50 cents.</P>
105.sgm:<P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:A NEW BOOK BY THE AUTHOR OF "A SOCIAL DEPARTURE" AND "AN AMERICAN GIRL IN LONDON." <HI REND="italics">THE SIMPLE ADVENTURES OF A MEMSAHIB</HI>
105.sgm:.  By SARA JEANNETTE DUNCAN.  With 37 Illustrations by F. H. TOWNSEND.  12mo. Cloth, $1.50.<LB>The fresh, spontaneous humor which made "A Social Departure" so brilliant a success is here seen at its best.  A new chapter of domestic life is opened, and the changes of scene and character impart a constant animation to this delightful record of a <HI REND="italics">memsahib's</HI>
105.sgm: adventures.  Mr. F. H. Townsend, the picturesque illustrator of "A Social Departure" and "An American Girl in London," has accompanied the <HI REND="italics">memsahib</HI>
105.sgm: with numerous brilliant illustrations.  <HI REND="italics">A SOCIAL DEPARTURE: How Orthodocia and I went Round the World by Ourselves</HI>
105.sgm:.  By SARA JEANNETTE DUNCAN.  With 111 Illustrations by F. H. TOWNSEND.  12mo.  Paper, 75 cents; cloth, $1.75.<LB>"Widely read and praised on both sides of the Atlantic and Pacific, with scores of illustrations which fit the text exactly and show the mind of artist and writer in unison."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Evening Post</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"It is to be doubted whether another book can be found so thoroughly amusing from beginning to end."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Daily Advertiser</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"For sparkling wit, irresistibly contagious fun, keen observation, absolutely poetic appreciation of natural beauty, and vivid descriptiveness, it has no recent rival."--Mrs. P. T. BARNUM'S Letter to the <HI REND="italics">New York Tribune</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"A brighter, merrier, more entirely charming book would be, indeed, difficult to find."-- <HI REND="italics">St. Louis Republic</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">AN AMERICAN GIRL IN LONDON</HI>
105.sgm:.  By SARA JEANNETTE DUNCAN.  With 80 Illustrations by F. H. TOWNSEND.  12mo.  Paper, 75 cents; cloth, $1.50.<LB>"One of the most nai&die;ve and entertaining books of the season."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Observer</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"The raciness and breeziness which made `A Social Departure,' by the same author, last season, the best-read and most-talked-of book of travel for many a year, permeate the new book, and appear between the lines of every page."-- <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn Standard-Union</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"So sprightly a book as this, on life in London as observed by an American, has never before been written."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Bulletin</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"Overrunning with cleverness and good-will."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Commercial Advertiser</HI>
105.sgm:<P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<HI REND="italics">THE FAITH DOCTOR</HI>
105.sgm:.  By EDWARD EGGLESTON, author of "The Hoosier Schoolmaster," "The Circuit Rider," etc.  12mo.  Cloth, $1.50.<LB>"An excellent piece of work....With each new novel the author of `The Hoosier Schoolmaster' enlarges his audience, and surprises old friends by reserve forces unsuspected.  Sterling integrity of character and high moral motives illuminate Dr. Eggleston's fiction, and assure its place in the literature of America which is to stand as a worthy reflex of the best thoughts of this age."-- <HI REND="italics">New York World</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"One of <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
105.sgm: novels of the decade."-- <HI REND="italics">Rochester union and Advertiser</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"It is extremely fortunate that the fine subject indicated in the title should have fallen into such competent hands."-- <HI REND="italics">Pittsburgh Chronicle-Telegraph</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"Much skill is shown by the author in making these `fads' the basis of a novel of great interest....One who tries to keep in the current of good novel-reading must certainly find time to read `The Faith Doctor.'"-- <HI REND="italics">Buffalo Commercial</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"A vivid and life-like transcript from several phases of society.  Devoid of literary affectation and pretense, it is a wholesome American novel well worthy of the popularity which it has won."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Inquirer</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"The author of `The Hoosier Schoolmaster' has enhanced his reputation by this beautiful and touching study of the character of a girl to love whom proved a liberal education to both of her admirers."-- <HI REND="italics">London Athen&aelig;um</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">AN UTTER FAILURE</HI>
105.sgm:.  By MIRIAM COLES HARRIS, author of "Rutledge."  12mo.  Cloth, $1.25.<LB>"A story with an elaborate plot, worked out with great cleverness and with the skill of an experienced artists in fiction.  The interest is strong and at times very dramatic....Those who were attracted by `Rutledge' will give hearty welcome to this story, and find it fully as enjoyable as that once immensely popular novel."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Saturday Evening Gazette</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"The pathos of this tale is profound, the movement highly dramatic, the moral elevating."-- <HI REND="italics">New York World</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"In this new story the author has done some of the best work that she has ever given to the public, and it will easily class among the most meritorious and most original novels of the year."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Home Journal</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"The author of `Rutledge' does not often send out a new volume, but when she does it is always a literary event....Her previous books were sketchy and slight when compared with the finished and trained power evidenced in `An Utter Failure.'"-- <HI REND="italics">New Haven Palladium</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"Exhibits the same literary excellence that made the success of the author's first book."-- <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Argonaut</HI>
105.sgm:.<LB>"American girls with a craving for titled husbands will find instructive reading in this story."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Traveller</HI>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">ELINE VERE</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"The established authorities in art and literature retain their exclusive place in dictionaries and hand-books long after the claim of their juniors to be observed with attention has been practically conceded at home.  For this reason, partly, and partly also because the mental life of Holland receives little attention in this country, no account has yet been taken of the revolution in Dutch taste which has occupied the last six or seven years.  I believe that the present occasion is the first on which it has been brought to the notice of any English-speaking public....`Eline Vere' is an admirable performance."--EDMUND GOSSE, <HI REND="italics">in Introduction</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Most careful in its details of description, most picturesque in its coloring."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Post</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"A vivacious and skillful performance, giving an evidently faithful picture of society, and evincing the art of a true story-teller."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Telegraph</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Those who associate Dutch characters and Dutch thought with ideas of the purely phlegmatic, will read with astonishment and pleasure the oft-times stirring and passionate sentences of this novel."-- <HI REND="italics">Public Opinion</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"The <HI REND="italics">de&acute;nou&circ;ment</HI>
105.sgm: is tragical, thrilling, and picturesque."-- <HI REND="italics">New York World</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"If modern Dutch literature has other books as good as this to offer, we hope that they will soon find a translator."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Evening Journal</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A PURITAN PAGAN</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Van Rensselaer Cruger grows stronger as she writes.... The lines in her story are boldly and vigorously etched."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Times</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"The author's recent books have made for her a secure place in current literature, where she can stand fast.... Her latest production, `A Puritan Pagan,' is an eminently clever story, in the best sense of the word clever."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Telegraph</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Has already made its mark as a popular story, and will have an abundance of readers....It contains some useful lessons that will repay the thoughtful study of persons of both sexes."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Journal of Commerce</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"This brilliant novel will without doubt add to the repute of the writer who chooses to be known as Julien Gordon....The ethical purpose of the author is kept fully in evidence through a series of intensely interesting situations."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Beacon</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"It is obvious that the author is thoroughly at home in illustrating the manner and the sentiment of the best society of both America and Europe."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Times</HI>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">ON THE PLANTATION</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"The book is in the characteristic vein which has made the author so famous and popular as an interpreter of plantation character."-- <HI REND="italics">Rochester Union and Advertiser</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Those who never tire of Uncle Remus and his stories--with whom we would be accounted--will delight in Joe Maxwell and his exploits."-- <HI REND="italics">London Saturday Review</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Altogether a most charming book."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Times</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Really a valuable, if modest, contribution to the history of the civil war within the Confederate lines, particularly on the eve of the catastrophe.  Two or three new animal fables are introduced with effect; but the history of the plantation, the printing-office, the black runaways, and white deserters, of whom the impending break-up made the community tolerant, the coon and fox hunting, forms the serious purpose of the book, and holds the reader's interest from beginning to end."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Evening Post</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">UNCLE REMUS: His Songs and his Sayings</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"The idea of preserving and publishing these legends, in the form in which the old plantation negroes actually tell them, is altogether one of the happiest literary conceptions of the day.  And very admirably is the work done....In such touches lies the charm of this fascinating little volume of legends, which deserves to be placed on a level with <HI REND="italics">Reincke Fuchs</HI>
105.sgm: for its quaint humor, without reference to the ethnological interest possessed by these stories, as indicating, perhaps, a common origin for very widely severed races."-- <HI REND="italics">London Spectator</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"We are just discovering what admirable literary material there is at home, what a great mine there is to explore, and how quaint and peculiar is the material which can be dug up.  Mr. Harris's book may be looked on in a double light--either as a pleasant volume recounting the stories told by a typical old colored man to a child, or as a valuable contribution to our somewhat meager folk-lore....To Northern readers the story of Brer (Brother--Brudder) Rabbit may be novel.  To those familiar with plantation life, who have listened to these quaint old stories, who have still tender reminiscences of some good old mauma who told these wondrous adventures to them when they were children, Brer Rabbit, the Tar Baby, and Brer Fox come back again with all the past pleasures of younger days."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Times</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Uncle Remus's sayings on current happenings are very shrewd and bright, and the plantation and revival songs are choice specimens of their sort."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Journal</HI>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>BEATRICE WHITBY'S NOVELS.</P>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">THE AWAKENING OF MARY FENWICK</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Miss Whitby is far above the average novelist....This story is original without seeming ingenious, and powerful without being overdrawn."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Commercial Advertiser</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"An admirable portrayal of the development of human character under novel experiences."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Commonwealth</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"It is not often that the first novel of an author is such a pronounced success....Incidentally there is a charming study of child-life in Jack and Gill which is both amusing and pathetic."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Union</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"A most artistic piece of work."-- <HI REND="italics">Burlington Free Press</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"We have read the book with absorbing interest, and heartily agree with the <HI REND="italics">Athen&aelig;um</HI>
105.sgm: that it is `the best work of its kind which we have seen for a number of years, and that its author has the power, if she has also the will, to become a great novelist.'  Her characters of Captain Fenwick and Mary are strongly conceived and most faithfully elaborated.  They interest us as human beings whom we know and admire.  Their story is so well told, the incidents are so natural, that we can not forget the one or the other....The whole story is full of pathos and human interest, and no one can read it without delight."-- <HI REND="italics">Providence Journal</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">PART OF THE PROPERTY</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Miss Whitby has followed up her first success by a greater."-- <HI REND="italics">Charleston News and Courier</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"There is not much risk involved in predicting the popularity of Beatrice Whitby's fresh venture."-- <HI REND="italics">London Literary World</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"The book is a thoroughly good one.  The theme is the rebellion of a spirited girl against a match which has been arranged for her without her knowledge or consent....It is refreshing to read a novel in which there is not a trace of slipshod work."-- <HI REND="italics">London Spectator</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"The key-note of this book is self-restraint and devotion to duty--a note sounding clear to the nobler instincts and highest law of life."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Union</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A MATTER OF SKILL</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"A very charming love story, whose heroine is drawn with original skill and beauty, and whom everybody will love for her splendid if very independent character."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Home Journal</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Told in a gracefully piquant manner, and with a frank freshness of style that makes it very attractive in the reading.  It is uncommonly well written."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Saturday Evening Gazette</HI>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P>GEORGE H. ELLWANGER'S BOOKS.</P>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">THE GARDEN'S STORY; or, Pleasures and Trials of an Amateur Gardener</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"This dainty nugget of horticultural lore treats of the pleasures and trials of an amateur gardener.  From the time when daffodils begin to peer and the `secret of the year' comes in to mid October, Mr. Ellwanger provides an outline of hardy flower-gardening that can be carried on and worked upon by amateurs...."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Public Ledger</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"One of the most charming books of the season....It is in no sense a text-book, but it combines a vast deal of information with a great deal of out-of-door observation, and exceedingly pleasant and sympathetic writing about flowers and plants."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Union</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"A dainty, learned, charming, and delightful book."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Sun</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">THE STORY OF MY HOUSE</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"An essay on the building of a house, with all its kaleidoscopic possibilities in the way of reform, and its tantalizing successes before the fact, is always interesting; and the author is not niggardly in the good points he means to secure....The book aims only to be agreeable; its literary flavor is pervasive, its sentiment kept well in hand."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Evening Post</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"When the really perfect book of its class comes to a critic's hands, all the words he has used to describe fairly satisfactory ones are inadequate for his new purpose, and he feels inclined, as in this case, to stand aside and let the book speak for itself.  In its own way, it would be hardly possible for this daintily printed volume to do better."-- <HI REND="italics">Art Amateur</HI>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">IN GOLD AND SILVER</HI>
105.sgm:.  With Illustrations by W. Hamilton Gibson, A. B. Wenzell, and W. C. Greenough.  16mo.  Cloth, $2.00.  Also, limited <HI REND="italics">e&acute;dition de luxe</HI>
105.sgm:<P>CONTENTS: The Golden Rug of Kermansha&circ;h; Warders of the Woods; A Shadow upon the Pool; The Silver Fox of Hunt's Hollow.</P>
105.sgm:<P>"After spending a half-hour with `In Gold and Silver,' one recalls the old saying, `Precious things come in samll parcels.'"-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Intelligencer</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"One of the handsomest gift-books of the year."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Inquirer</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"The whole book is eminently interesting, and emphatically deserving of the very handsome and artistic setting it has received."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Tribune</HI>
105.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
105.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
105.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">MANY INVENTIONS</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"The reader turns from its pages with the conviction that the author has no superior to-day in animated narrative and virility of style.  He remains master of a power in which none of his contemporaries approach him--the ability to select out of countless details the few vital ones which create the finished picture.  He knows how, with a phrase or a word, to make you see his characters as he sees them, to make you feel the full meaning of a dramatic situation."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Tribune</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"`Many Inventions' will confirm Mr. Kipling's reputation....We would cite with pleasure sentences from almost every page, and extract incidents from almost every story.  But to what end?  Here is the completest book that Mr. Kipling has yet given us in workmanship, the weightiest and most humane in breadth of view."-- <HI REND="italics">Pall Mall Gazette</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Mr. Kipling's powers as a story-teller are evidently not diminishing.  We advise everybody to buy `Many Inventions,' and to profit by some of the best entertainment that modern fiction has to offer."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Sun</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"`Many Inventions' will be welcomed wherever the English language is spoken....Every one of the stories bears the imprint of a master who conjures up incident as if by magic, and who portrays character, scenery, and feeling with an ease which is only exceeded by the boldness of force."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Globe</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"The book will get and hold the closest attention of the reader."-- <HI REND="italics">American Bookseller</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Mr. Rudyard Kipling's place in the world of letters is unique.  He sits quite aloof and alone, the incomparable and inimitable master of the exquisitely fine art of short-story writing.  Mr. Robert Louis Stevenson has perhaps written several tales which match the run of Mr. Kipling's work, but the best of Mr. Kipling's tales are matchless, and his latest collection, `Many Inventions,' contains several such."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Press</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Of late essays in fiction the work of Kipling can be compared to only three--Blackmore's `Lorna Doone,' Stevenson's marvelous sketch of Villon in the `New Arabian Nights,' and Thomas Hardy's `Tess of the D'Urbervilles.'...It is probably owing to this extreme care that `Many Inventions' is undoubtedly Mr. Kipling's best book."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Post</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"Mr. Kipling's style is too well known to American readers to require introduction, but it can scarcely be amiss to say there is not a story in this collection that does not more than repay a perusal of them all."-- <HI REND="italics">Baltimore American</HI>
105.sgm:<P>"As a writer of short stories Rudyard Kipling is a genius.  He has had imitators, but they have not been successful in dimming the luster of his achievements by contrast....`Many Inventions' is the title.  And they are inventions--entirely original in incident, ingenious in plot, and startling by their boldness and force."-- <HI REND="italics">Rochester Herald</HI>
105.sgm:<P>New York: D. APPLETON &amp; CO., 1, 3, &amp; 5 Bond Street.</P>
107.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-107</TITLE>
107.sgm:<TITLE>Death Valley in '49.  Important chapter of California pioneer history, the autobiography of a pioneer, detailing his life from a humble home in the Green Mountains to the gold mines of California; and particularly reciting the sufferings of the band of men, women and children who gave "Death Valley" its name.  By William Lewis Manly: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
107.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
107.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
107.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
107.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
107.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
107.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-580</LCCN>
107.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
107.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>8543</COPYRIGHT>
107.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>DEATH VALLEY</P>
107.sgm:<P>IN '49.</P>
107.sgm:<P>IMPORTANT CHAPTER OF</P>
107.sgm:<P>California Pioneer History.</P>
107.sgm:<P>--THE--</P>
107.sgm:<P>AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A PIONEER, DETAILING HIS LIFE FROM</P>
107.sgm:<P>A HUMBLE HOME IN THE GREEN MOUNTAINS TO THE</P>
107.sgm:<P>GOLD MINES OF CALIFORNIA; AND PARTICULARLY</P>
107.sgm:<P>RECITING THE SUFFERINGS OF THE BAND</P>
107.sgm:<P>OF MEN, WOMEN AND CHILDREN WHO</P>
107.sgm:<P>GAVE "DEATH VALLEY" ITS NAME.</P>
107.sgm:<P>BY WILLIAM LEWIS MANLY.</P>
107.sgm:<P>SAN JOSE. CAL.</P>
107.sgm:<P>THE PACIFIC TREE AND VINE CO.</P>
107.sgm:<P>1894.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1894, by</P>
107.sgm:<P>WM. L. MANLEY,</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D.C.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>TO</P>
107.sgm:<P>THE PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
107.sgm:<P>THEIR CHILDREN AND GRANDCHILDREN,</P>
107.sgm:<P>THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED,</P>
107.sgm:<P>WITH THAT HIGH RESPECT AND REGARD</P>
107.sgm:<P>SO OFTEN EXPRESSED IN ITS PAGES,</P>
107.sgm:<P>BY THE AUTHOR.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>Birth, Parentage.--Early Life in Vermont.--Sucking Cider through a Straw.<HSEP>10-16.<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>The Western Fever.--On the Road to Ohio.--The Outfit.--The Erie Canal.--In the Maumee Swamp.<HSEP>16-21<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>At Detroit and Westward.--Government Land.--Killing Deer.--"Fever 'N Agur."<HSEP>21-26.<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>The Lost Filley Boy.--Never Was Found.<HSEP>26-29.<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>Sickness.--Rather Catch Chipmonks in the Rocky Mountains than Live in Michigan.--Building the Michigan Central R.R.--Building a Boat.--Floating down Grand River.--Black Bear.--Indians Catching Mullet.--Across the Lake to Southport.--Lead Mining at Mineral Point.--Decides to go Farther West.--Return to Michigan.<HSEP>30-46.<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>Wisconsin.--Indian Physic.--Dressed for a Winter Hunting Campaign.--Hunting and Trapping in the Woods.--Catching Otter and Marten.<HSEP>47-57.<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>Lead Mining.--Hears about Gold in California.--Gets the Gold Fever.--Nothing will cure it but California.--Mr. Bennett and the Author Prepare to Start.--The Winnebago Pony.--Agrees to Meet Bennett at Missouri River.--Delayed and Fails to Find Him.--Left with only a Gun and Pony.--Goes as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:Driver for Charles Dallas.--Stopped by a Herd of Buffaloes.--Buffalo Meat.--Indians.--U.S. Troops.--The Captain and the Lieutenant.--Arrive at South Pass.--The Waters Run toward the Pacific.--They Find a Boat and Seven of them Decide to Float down the Green River.<HSEP>58-75.<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>Floating down the River.--It begins to roar.--Thirty Miles a Day.--Brown's Hole.--Lose the Boat and make two Canoes.--Elk.--The Can&tilde;ons get Deeper.--Floundering in the Water.--The Indian Camp.--Chief Walker proves a Friend.--Describes the Terrible Can&tilde;on below Them.--Advises Them to go no farther down.--Decide to go Overland.--Dangerous Route to Salt Lake.--Meets Bennett near there.--Organize the Sand Walking Company.<HSEP>76-108.<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>The Southern Route.--Off in Fine Style.--A Cut-off Proposed.--Most of Them Try it and Fail.--The Jayhawkers.--A New Organization.--Men with Families not Admitted.--Capture an Indian Who Gives Them the Slip.--An Indian Woman and Her Children,--Grass Begins to Fail.--A High Peak to the West.--No Water.--An Indian Hut.--Reach the Warm Spring.--Desert Everywhere.--Some One Steals Food.--The Water Acts Like a Dose of Salts.--Christmas Day.--Rev. J. W. Brier Delivers a Lecture to His Sons.--Nearly Starving and Choking.--An Indian in a Mound.--Indians Shoot the Oxen.--Camp at Furnace Creek.<HSEP>108-143.<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>A Long, Narrow Valley.--Beds and Blocks of Salt.--An Ox Killed.--Blood, Hide and Intestines Eaten.--Crossing Death Valley.--The Wagons can go no farther.--Manley and Rogers Volunteer to go for Assistance.--They Set out on Foot.--Find the Dead <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:Body of Mr. Fish.--Mr. Isham Dies.--Bones along the Road.--Cabbage Trees.--Eating Crow and Hawk.--After Sore Trials They Reach a Fertile Land.--Kindly Treated.--Returning with Food and Animals.--The Little Mule Climbs a Precipice, the Horses are Left Behind.--Finding the Body of Captain Culverwell.--They Reach Their Friends just as all Hope has Left Them.--Leaving the Wagons.--Packs on the Oxen.--Sacks for the Children.--Old Crump.--Old Brigham and Mrs. Arcane.--A Stampede [Illustrated.]--Once more Moving Westward.--"Good-bye, Death Valley."<HSEP>143-217.<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>Struggling Along.--Pulling the Oxen Down the Precipice[Illustrated.]--Making Raw-hide Moccasins.--Old Brigham Lost and Found.--Dry Camps.--Nearly Starving.--Melancholy and Blue.--The Feet of the Women Bare and Blistered.--"One Cannot form an Idea How Poor an Ox Will Get."--Young Charlie Arcane very Sick.--Skulls of Cattle.--Crossing the Snow Belt.--Old Dog Cuff.--Water Dancing over the Rocks.--Drink, Ye Thirsty Ones.--Killing a Yearling.--See the Fat.--Eating Makes Them Sick.--Going down Soledad Can&tilde;on.--A Beautiful Meadow.--Hospitable Spanish People.--They Furnish Shelter and Food.--The San Fernando Mission.--Reaching Los Angeles.--They Meet Moody and Skinner.--Soap and Water for the First Time in Months.--Clean Dresses for the Women.--Real Bread to Eat,--A Picture of Los Angeles.--Black-eyed Women.--The Author Works in a Boarding-house.--Bennett and Others go up the Coast.--Life in Los Angeles.--The Author Prepares to go North.<HSEP>217-278.<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>Dr. McMahon's Story.--McMahon and Field, Left behind with Chief Walker, Determine to go down the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:River.--Change Their Minds and go with the Indians.--Change again and go by themselves.--Eating Wolf Meat.--After much Suffering they reach Salt Lake.--John Taylor's Pretty Wife.--Field falls in Love with her.--They Separate.--Incidents of Wonderful Escapes from Death.<HSEP>278-319.<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>Story of the Jayhawkers.--Ceremonies of Initiation--Rev. J. W. Brier.--His Wife the best Man of the Two.--Story of the Road across Death Valley.--Burning the Wagons--Narrow Escape of Tom Shannon--Capt. Ed Doty was Brave and True--They reach the Sea by way of Santa Clara River--Capt. Haynes before the Alcalde--List of Jayhawkers<HSEP>319-366<LB>CHAPTER XIV<LB>Alexander Erkson's Statement--Works for Brigham Young at Salt Lake--Mormon Gold Coin--Mt. Misery--The Virgin River and Yucca Trees--A Child Born to Mr. and Mrs. Rynierson--Arrive at Cucamonga--Find some good Wine which is good for Scurvy--San Francisco and the Mines--Settles in San Jose--Experience of Edward Coker--Death of Culverwell, Fish and Isham--Goes through Walker's Pass and down Kern River--Living in Fresno in 1892<HSEP>366-376<LB>CHAPTER XV<LB>The Author again takes up the History--Working in a Boarding House, but makes Arrangements to go North--Mission San Bueno Ventura--First Sight of the Pacific Ocean--Santa Barbara in 1850--Paradise and Desolation--San Miguel, Santa Ynez and San Luis Obispo--California Carriages and how they were used--Arrives in San Jose and Camps in the edge of Town--Description of the place--Meets John Rogers, Bennett, Moody and Skinner--On the road to the Mines--They find some of the Yellow Stuff and go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:Prospecting for more--Experience with <HI REND="italics">Piojos</HI>
107.sgm: --Life and Times in the Mines--Sights and Scenes along the Road, at Sea, on the Isthmus, Cuba, New Orleans, and up the Mississippi--A few Months Amid Old Scenes, then away to the Golden State again.<HSEP>376-440.<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>St. Louis to New Orleans, New Orleans to San Francisco--Off to the Mines Again--Life in the Mines and Incidents of Mining Times and Men--Vigilance Committee--Death of Mrs. Bennett<HSEP>440-478<LB>CHAPTER XVII<LB>Mines and Mining--Adventures and Incidents of the Early Days--The Pioneers, their Character and Influence--Conclusion</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE<LB>AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A<LB><HI REND="bold">PIONEER</HI>
107.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>ST-ALBANS, Vermont is near the eastern shore of Lake Champlain, and only a short distance south of "Five-and-forty north degrees" which separates the United States from Canada, and some sixty or seventy miles from the great St. Lawrence River and the city of Montreal, Near here it was, on April 6th, 1820, I was born, so the record says, and from this point with wondering eyes of childhood I looked across the waters of the narrow lake to the slopes of the Adirondack mountains in New York, green as the hills of my own Green Mountain State.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The parents of my father were English people and lived near Hartford, Connecticut, where he was born.  While still a little boy he came with his parents to Vermont.  My mother's maiden name was Ph&oelig;be Calkins, born near St. Albans of Welch parents, and, being left an orphan while yet in very tender years, she was given away to be reared by people who provided food and clothes, but permitted her to grow up to womanhood without knowing how to read or write.  After her marriage she learned to do both, and acquired the rudiments of an education.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Grandfather and his boys, four in all, fairly carved a farm out of the big forest that covered the cold rocky hills.  Giant work it was for them in such heavy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>In summer there were plenty of strawberries, raspberries, whortleberries and blackberries growing wild, but all the cultivated fruit was apples.  As these ripened many were peeled by hand, cut in quarters, strung on long strings of twine and dried before the kitchen fire for winter use.  They had a way of burying up some of the best keepers in the ground, and opening the apple hole was quite an event of early spring.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The children were taught to work as soon as large enough.  I remember they furnished me with a little wooden fork to spread the heavy swath of grass my father cut with easy swrings of the scythe, and when it was dry and being loaded on the great ox-cart I followed closely with a rake gathering every scattering spear.  The barn was built so that every animal was housed comfortably in winter, and the house was such as all settlers built, not considered handsome, but capable of being made very warm in winter and the great piles of hard wood in the yard enough to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>In clearing the land the hemlock bark was peeled and traded off at the tannery for leather, or used to pay for tanning and dressing the hide of an ox or cow which they managed to fat and kill about every year,  Stores for the family were either made by a neighboring shoemaker, or by a traveling one who went from house to house, making up a supply for the family--whipping the cat, they called it then.  They paid him in something or other produced upon the farm, and no money was asked or expected.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Wood was one thing plenty, and the fireplace was made large enough to take in sticks four feet long or more, for the more they could burn the better, to get it out of the way.  In an outhouse, also provided with a fireplace and chimney, they made shingles during the long winter evenings, the shavings making plenty of fire and light by which to work.  The shingles sold for about a dollar a thousand.  Just beside the fireplace in the house was a large brick oven where mother baked great loaves of bread, big pots of pork and beans, mince pies and loaf cake, a big turkey or a young pig on grand occasions.  Many of the dishes used were of tin or pewter; the milk pans were of earthenware, but most things about the house in the line of furniture <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The store bills were very light.  A little tea for father and mother, a few spices and odd luxuries were about all, and they were paid for with surplus eggs.  My father and my uncle had a sawmill, and in winter they hauled logs to it, and could sell timber for $8 per thousand feet.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The school was taught in winter by a man named Bowen, who managed forty scholars and considered sixteen dollars a month, boarding himself, was pretty fair pay.  In summer some smart girl would teach the small scholars and board round among the families.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When the proper time came the property holder would send off to the collector an itemized list of all his property, and at another the taxes fell due.  A farmer who would value his property at two thousand or three thousand dollars would find he had to pay about six or seven dollars.  All the money in use then seemed to be silver, and not very much of that.  The whole plan seemed to to be to have every family and farm self-supporting as far as possible.  I have heard of a note being given payable in a good cow to be delivered at a certain time, say October 1, and on that day it would pass from house to house in payment of a debt, and at night only the last man in the list would have a cow more than his neighbor.  Yet those were the days of real independence, after all.  Every man worked hard from early youth to a good old age.  There were no millionaires, no tramps, and the poorhouse had only a few inmates.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I have very pleasant recollections of the neighborhood cider mill.  There were two rollers formed of logs carefully rounded and four or five feet long, set closely together in an upright position in a rough frame, a long crooked sweep coming from one of them to which a horse was hitched and pulled it round and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The winter ashes, made from burning so much fuel and gathered from the brush-heaps and log-heaps, were carefully saved and traded with the potash men for potash or sold for a small price.  Nearly every one went barefoot in summer, and in winter wore heavy leather mocassins made by the Canadian French who lived near by.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>ABOUT 1828 people began to talk about the far West.  Ohio was the place we heard most about, and the most we knew was, that it was a long way off and no way to get there except over a long and tedious road, with oxen or horses and a cart or wagon.  More than one got the Western fever, as they called it, my uncle James Webster and my father among the rest, when they heard some traveler tell about the fine country he had seen; so they sold their farms and decided to go to Ohio, Uncle James was to go ahead, in the fall of 1829 and get a farm to rent, if he could, and father and his family were to come on the next spring.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Uncle fitted out with two good horses and a wagon; goods were packed in a large box made to fit, and under the wagon seat was the commissary chest for food and bedding for daily use, all snugly arranged.  Father had, shortly before, bought a fine Morgan mare and a light wagon which served as a family carriage, having wooden axles and a seat arranged on wooden springs, and they finally decided they would let me take the horse and wagon and go on with uncle, and father and mother would come by water, either by way of the St. Lawrence river and the lakes or by way of the new canal recently built, which would take them as far as Buffalo.</P>
107.sgm:<P>So they loaded up the little wagon with some of the mentioned things and articles in the house, among which I remember a fine brass kettle, considered almost indispensable in housekeeping.  There was a good lot of bedding and blankets, and a quilt nicely folded was placed on the spring seat as a cushion.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As may be imagined I was the object of a great deal of attention about this time, for a boy not yet ten years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I was up with uncle very soon and we rolled down through St. Albans and took our road southerly along in sight of Lake Champlain.  Uncle and aunt often looked back to talk to me, "See what a nice cornfield!" or, "What nice apples on those trees," seeming to think they must do all they could to cheer me up, that I might not think too much of the playmates and home I was leaving behind.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I had never driven very far before, but I found the horse knew more than I did how to get around the big stones and stumps that were found in the road, so that as long as I held the lines and the whip in hand I was an excellent driver.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We had made plans and preparations to board ourselves on the journey.  We always stopped at the farm houses over night. and they were so hospitable that they gave us all we wanted free.  Our supper was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>In due time we reached Whitehall, at the head of Lake Champlain, and the big box in Uncle's wagon proved so heavy over the muddy roads that he put it in a canal boat to be sent on to Cleveland, and we found it much easier after this for there were too many mud-holes, stumps and stones and log bridges for so heavy a load as he had.  Our road many times after this led along near the canal, the Champlain or the Erie. and I had a chance to see something of the canal boys' life.  The boy who drove the horses that drew the packet boat was a well dressed fellow and always rode at a full trot or a gallop, but the freight driver was generally ragged and barefoot, and walked when it was too cold to ride, threw stones or clubs at his team, and cursed and abused the packet-boy who passed as long as he was in hearing.  Reared as I had been I thought it was a pretty wicked part of the world we we were coming to.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We passed one village of low cheap houses near the canal.  The men about were very vulgar and talked rough and loud, nearly every one with a pipe, and poorly dressed, loafing around the saloon, apparently the worse for whisky.  The children were barefoot, bare headed and scantly dressed, and it seemed awfully dirty about the doors of the shanties.  Pigs, ducks and geese were at the very door, and the women I saw wore dresses that did not come down very near the mud and big brogan shoes, and their talk was saucy and different from what I had ever heard women use before.  They told me they were Irish people--the first I had ever seen.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>It was along here somewhere that I lost my little whip and to get another one made sad inroads into the little purse of pennies my father gave me.  We traveled slowly on day after day.  There was no use to hurry for we could not do it.  The roads were muddy, the log ways very rough and the only way was to take a moderate gait and keep it.  We never traveled on Sunday.  One Saturday evening my uncle secured the privilege of staying at a well-to do farmer's house until Monday.  We had our own food and bedding, but were glad to get some privileges in the kitchen, and some fresh milk or vegetables.  After all had taken supper that night they all they all sat down and made themselves quiet with their books, and the children were as still a mice till an early bed time when all retired.  When Sunday evening came the women got out their work--their sewing and their knitting, and the children romped and played and made as much noise as they could, seeming as anxious to break the Sabbath as they had been to have a pious Saturday night.  I had never seen that way before and asked my uncle who said he guessed they were Seventh Day Baptists.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After many days of travel which became to me quite monotonous we came to Cleveland, on Lake Erie, and here my uncle found his box of goods, loaded it into the wagon again, and traveled on through rain and mud, making very slow headway, for two or three days after, when we stopped at a four-corners in Medina county they told us we were only 21 miles from Cleveland.  Here was a small town consisting of a hotel, store, church, schoolhouse and blacksmith shop, and as it was getting cold and bad, uncle decided to go no farther now, and rented a room for himself and aunt, and found a place for me to lodge with Daniel Stevens' boy close by.  We got good stables for our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I went to the district school here, and studied reading, spelling and Colburn's mental arithmetic, which I mastered.  It began very easy--"How many thumbs  on your right hand?"  "How many on your left?"  "How many altogether?" but it grew harder further on.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Uncle took employment anything he could find to do, Chopping was his principal occupation.  When the snow began to go off he looked around for a farm to rent for us and father to live on when he came, but he found none such as he needed.  He now got a letter from father telling him that he had good news from a friend named Cornish who said that good land nearly clear of timber could be bought of the Government in Michingan Territory, some sixty or seventy miles beyond Detroit, and this being an opportunity ot</P>
107.sgm:<P>We then gave up the idea of staying here and preget what land they needed with their small capital, they would start for that place as soon as the waterways were thawed out, probably in Aprin.</P>
107.sgm:<P>pared to go to Michigan as soon as the frost was out of the ground.  Starting, we reached Huron River to find it it swollen and out of its bank, giving us much trouble to get across, the road along the bottom lands being partly covered with logs and rails, but once across we were in the town and when we enquired about the road around to Detroit, they said the country was all a swamp and 30 miles wide and in Spring impassible.  They called it the Maumee or Black Swamp.  We were advised to go by, water when a steamboat came up the river bound for Detroit we put our wagons and horses on board, and camped on the lower deck ourselves.  We had our own food and were very comfortable, and glad to have esaped the great mudhole.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>We arrived in Detroit safely, and a few minutes answered to land our wagons and goods, when we rolled outward in a westerly direction.  We found a very muddy roads, stumps and log bridges plenty, making our rate of travel very slow,  When out upon our road aboui 30 miles, near Ypsilanti, the thick forest we had been passing through grew thinner, and the trees soon dwindled down into what they called oak openings, and the road became more sandy.  When we reached McCracken's Tavern we began to enquire for Ebenezer Manley and family, and were soon directed to a large house near by where he was stopping for a time.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We drove up to the door and they all came out to see who the new comers were.  Mother saw me first and ran to the wagon and pulled me off and hugged and kissed me over and over again, while the tears ran down her cheeks,  Then she would hold me off at arm's length, and look me in the eye and say--"I am so glad to have you again"; and then she embraced me again and again.  "You are our little man," said she, "You have come over this long road, and brought us our good horse and our little wagon."  My sister Polly two years older than I, stood patiently by, and when mother turned to speak to uncle and aunt, she locked arms with me and took me away with her.  We had never been separated before in all our lives and we had loved each other as good children should, whohave been brought up in good and moral principles.  We loved each other and our home and respected our good father and mother who had made it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We all sat down by the side of the house and talked pretty fast telling our experience on our long journey by land and water, and when the sun went down we were called to supper, and went hand in hand to surround the bountiful table as a family again.  During the conversation at supper father said to me--"Lewis, I have bought you a smooth bore rifle, suitable for either ball or shot."  This, I thought was good enough for any one, and I thanked him heartily.  We spent the greater part of the night in talking over our adventures since we left Vermont, and sleep was forgotten by young and old.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Next morning father and uncle took the horse and little wagon and went out in search of Government land.  They found an old acquaintance in Jackson county and Government land all around him, and, scarching till they found the section corner, they found the number of the lots they wanted to locate on--200 acres in all.  They then went to the Detroit land office and secured the pieces they had chosen.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Father now bought a yoke of oxen, a wagon and a cow, and as soon as we could get loaded up our little emigrant train started west to our future home, where we arrived safely in a few days and secured a house to live in about a mile away from our land.  We now worked with a will and built two log houses and also hired 10 acres broken, which was done with three or four yoke of oxen and a strong plow.  The trees were scattered over the ground and some small brush and old limbs, and logs which we cleared away as we plowed.  Our houses went up very fast--all rough oak logs, with oak puncheons, or hewed planks for a floor, and oak shakes for a roof, all of our own make.  The shakes were held down upon the roof by heavy poles, for we had no nails, the door of split stuff hung with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As fast as possible we fenced in the cultivated land, father and uncle splitting out the rails, while a younger brother and myself, by each getting hold of an end of one of them managed to lay up a fence four rails high, all we small men could do.  Thus working on, we had a pretty well cultivated farm in the course of two or three years, on which we produced wheat, corn and potatoes, and had an excellent garden.  We found plenty of wild cranberries and whortleberries, which we dried for winter use.  The lakes were full of good fish, black bass and pickerel, and the woods had deer, turkeys, pheasants, pigeons, and other things.  and I became quite an expert in the capture of small game for the table with my new gun.  Father and uncle would occasionally kill a deer, and the Indians came along and sold vension at times.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One fall after work was done and preparations were made for the winter, father said to me:--"Now Lewis, I want you to hunt every day--come home nights--but keep on till you kill a deer."  So with his permission I started with my gun on my shoulder, and with feelings of considerable pride.  Before night I started two deer in a brushy place, and they leaped high over the oak bushes in the most affrighted way.  I brought my gun to my shoulder and fired at the bounding animal when in most plain sight.  Loading then quickly, I hurried up the trail as fast as I could and soon came to my deer, dead, with a bullet hole in its head.  I was really surprised myself, for I had fired so hastily at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It was some time after this before I made another lucky shot.  Father would once in a while ask me:--"Well can't you kill us another deer?"  I told him that when I had crawled a long time toward a sleeping deer, that I got so trembly that I could not hit an ox in short range.  "O," said he, "You get the buck fever--don't be so timid--they won't attack you."  But after awhile this fever wore off, and I got so steady that I could hit anything I could get in reach of.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were now quite contented and happy.  Father could plainly show us the difference between this country and Vermont and the advantages we had here.  There the land was poor and stony and the winters terribly severe.  Here there were no stones to plow over, and the land was otherwise easy to till.  We could raise almost anything, and have nice wheat bread to eat, far superior to the "Rye-and-Indian" we used to have.  The nice white bread was good enough to eat without butter, and in comparison this country seemed a real paradise.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The supply of clothing we brought with us had lasted until now--more than two years--and we had sowed some flax and raised sheep so that we began to get material of our own raising, from which to manufacture some more.  Mother and sister spun some nice yarn, both woolen and linen, and father had a loom made on which mother wove it up into cloth, and we were soon dressed up in bran new clothes again.  Domestic economy of this kind was as necessary here as it was in Vermont, and we knew well how to practice it.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>About this time the emigrants began to come in very fast, and every piece of Government land any where about was taken.  So much land was ploughed, and so much vegetable matter turned under and decaying that there came a regular epidemic of fever and ague and bilious fever, and a large majority of the people were sick.  At our house father was the first one attacked, and when the fever was at its height he was quite out of his head and talked and acted like a crazy man.  We had never seen any one so sick before, and we thought he must surely die, but when the doctor came he said:--"Don't be alarmed.  It is only `fever 'n' agur,' and no one was ever known to die of that."  Others of us were sick too, and most of the neighbors, and it made us feel rather sorrowful.  The doctor's medicines consisted of calomel, jalap and quinine, all used pretty freely, by some with benefit, and by others to no visible purpose, for they had to suffer until the cold weather came and froze the disease out.  At one time I was the only one that remained well, and I had to nurse and cook, besides all the outdoor work that fell to me.  My sister married a man near by with a good farm and moved there with him, a mile or two away.  When she went away I lost my real bosom companion and felt very lonesome, but I went to see her once in a while, and that was pretty often, I think.  There was not much going on as a general thing.  Some little neighborhood society and news was about all.  There was, however, one incident which occured in 1837, I never shall forget, and which I will relate in the next chapter.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>ABOUT two miles west father's farm in Jackson county Mich., lived Ami Filley, who moved here from Connecticut and settled about two and a half miles from the town of Jackson, then a small village with plenty of stumps and mudholes in its streets.  Many of the roads leading thereto had been paved with tamarac poles, making what is now known as corduroy roads.  The country was still new and the farm houses far between.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mr. Filley secured Government land in the oak openings, and settled there with his wife and two or three children, the oldest of which was a boy named Willie.  The children were getting old enough to go to school, but there being none, Mr. Filley hired one of the neighbor's daughters to come to his house and teach the children there, so they might be prepared for usefulness in life or ready to proceed further with their education--to college, perhaps in some future day.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The young woman he engaged lived about a mile a half away--Miss Mary Mount--and she came over and began her duties as private school ma'am, not a very difficult task in those days.  One day after she had been teaching some time Miss Mount desired to go to her father's on a visit, and as she would pass a huckleberry swamp on the way she took a small pail to fill with berries as she went, and by consent of Willie's mother, the little boy went with her for company.  Reaching the berries she began to pick, and the little boy found this dull business, got tired and homesick and wanted to go home.  They were about a mile from Mr. Filley's and as there was a pretty good foot trail over which they had come, the young woman took the boy to it, and turning him toward home told him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Mr. Filley then started back on the trail, keeping close watch on each side of the way, for he expected he would soon come across Master Willie fast asleep.  He called his name every few rods, but got no answer nor could he discover him, and so returned home again, still calling and searching, but no boy was discovered.  Then he built a large fire and put lighted candles in all the windows, then took his lantern and went out in the woods calling and looking for the boy.  Sometimes he thought he heard him, but on going where the sound came from nothing could be found.  So he looked and called all night, along the trail and all about the woods, with no success.  Mr. Mount's home was situated not far from the shore of Fitch's Lake, and the trail went along the margin, and in some places the ground was quite a boggy marsh, and the trail had been fixed up to make it passably good walking.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Next day the neighbors were notified, and asked to assist, and although they were in the midst of wheat harvest, a great many laid down the cradle and rake and went out to help search.  On the third day the whole county became excited and quite an army of earchers turned out, coming from the whole country miles around.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mr. Filley was much excited and quite worn out and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The people then formed a plan for a thorough search.  They were to form in a line so near each other that they could touch hands and were to march thus turning out for nothing except inpassable lakes, and thus we marched, fairly sweeping the county in search of a sign.  I was with this party and we marched south and kept close watch for a bit of clothing, a foot print or even bones, or anything which would indicate that he had been destroyed by some wild animal.  Thus we marched all day with no success, and the next went north in the same careful manner, but with no better result.  Most of the people now abandoned the search, but some of the neighbors kept it up for a long time.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some expressed themselves quite strongly that Miss Mount knew where the boy was, saying that she might have had some trouble with him and in seeking to correct him had accidentally killed him and then hidden the body away--perhaps in the deep mire of the swamp or in the muddy waters on the margin of the lake.  Search was made with this idea foremost, but nothing was discovered.  Rain now set in, and the grain, from neglect grew in the head as it stood, and many a settler ate poor bread all winter in consequence of his neighborly kindness in the midst of harvest.  The bread would not rise, and to make it into pancakes was the best way it could be used.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Still no tidings ever came of the lost bov.  Many things were whispered, about Mr. Mount's dishonesty of character and there were manv suspicions about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>THE second year of sickness and I was affected with the rest, though it was not generally so bad as the first year.  I suffered a great deal and felt so miserable that I began to think I had rather live on the top of the Rocky Mountains and catch chipmuncks for a living than to live here and be sick, and I began to have very serious thoughts of trying some other country.  In the winter of 1839 and 1840 I went to a neigboring school for three months, where I studied reading, writing and spelling, getting as far as Rule of Three in Daboll's arithmetic.  When school was out I chopped and split rails for Wm. Hanna till I had paid my winter's board.  After this, myself and a young man named Orrin Henry, with whom I had become acquainted, worked awhile scoring timber to be used in building the Michigan Central Railroad which had just then begun to be built.  They laid down the ties first (sometimes a mudsill under them) and then put down four by eight wooden rails with a strips of band iron half an inch thick spiked on top.  I scored the timber and Henry used the broad axe after me.  It was pretty hard work and the hours as long as we could see, our wages being $13 per month, half cash.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In thinking over our prospect it seemed more and more as if I had better look out for my own fortune in some other place.  The farm was pretty small for all of us.  There were three brothers younger than I, and only 200 acres in the whole, and as they were growing up to be men it seemed as if it would be best for me, the oldest, to start out first and see what could be done to make my own living.  I talked to father and mother about my plans, and they did not seriously object, but gave me some good advice, which I remember to this day--"Weigh well every thing you do; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Henry and I drew our pay for our work.  I had five dollars in cash and the rest in pay from the company's store.  We purchased three nice whitewood boards, eighteen inches wide, from which we made us a boat and a good sized chest which we filled with provisions and some clothing and quilts.  This, with our guns and ammunition, composed the cargo of our boat.  When all was ready, we put the boat on a wagon and were to haul it to the river some eight miles away for embarkation.  After getting the wagon loaded, father said to me;--"Now my son, you are starting out in life alone, no one to watch or look after you.  You will have to depend upon yourself in all things.  You have a wide, wide world to operate in--you will meet all kinds of people and you must not expect to find them all honest or true friends.  You are limited in money, and all I can do for you in that way is to let you have what ready money I have."  He handed me three dollars as he spoke, which added to my own gave me seven dollars as my money capital with which to start out into the world among perfect strangers, and no acquaintances in prospect on our Western course.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When ready to start, mother and sister Polly came out to see us off and to give us their best wishes, hoping we would have good health, and find pleasant paths to follow.  Mother said to me:--"You must be a good boy, honest and law-abiding.  Remember our advice, and honor us for we have striven to make you a good and honest man, and you must follow our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The stream ran west, that we knew, and it was west we thought we wanted to go, so all things suited us.  The stream was small with tall timber on both sides, and so many trees had fallen into the river that our navigation was at times seriously obstructed.  When night came we hauled our boat on shore, turned it partly over, so as to shelter us, built a fire in front, and made a bed on a loose board which we carried in the bottom of the boat.  We talked till pretty late and then lay down to sleep, but for my part my eyes would not stay shut, and I lay till break of day and the little birds began to sing faintly.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I thought of many things that night which seemed so long.  I had left a good dear home, where I had good warm meals and a soft and comfortable bed.  Here I had reposed on a board with a very hard pillow and none too many blankets, and I turned from side to side on my hard bed, to which I had gone with all my clothes on.  It seemed the beginning of another chapter in my pioneer life and a rather tough experience.  I arose, kindled a big fire and sat looking at the glowing coals in still further meditation.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Neither of us felt very gleeful as we got our breakfast and made an early start down the river again.  Neither of us talked very much, and no doubt my companion had similar thoughts to mine, and wondered what was before us.  But I think that as a pair <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We saw no houses for several days, and seldom went on shore.  The forest was all hard wood, such as oak, ash, walnut, maple, elm and beech.  Farther down we occasionally passed the house of some pioneer hunter or trapper, with a small patch cleared' At one of these a big green boy came down to the bank to see who we were.  We said "How d'you do," to him, and, getting no response, Henry asked him how far is was to Michigan, at which a look of supreme disgust came over his features as he replied--"'Taint no far at all."</P>
107.sgm:<P>The stream grew wider as we advanced along its downward course, for smaller streams came pouring in to swell its tide.  The banks were still covered with heavy timber. and in some places with quite thick undergrowth.  One day we saw a black bear in the river washing himself, but he went ashore before we were near enough to get a sure shot at him.  Many deer tracks were seen along the shore, but as we saw very few of the animals themselves, they were probably night visitors.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One day we overtook some canoes containing Indians, men, women and children.  They were poling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When we came to Grand Rapids we had to go on shore and tow our boat carefully along over the many rocks to prevent accident.  Here was a small cheap looking town.  On the west bank of the river a water wheel was driving a drill boring for salt water, it seemed through solid rock.  Up to this time the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Passing on we began to see some pine timber, and realized that we were near the mouth of the river where it emptied into Lake Michigan.  There were some steam saw mills here, not then in operation, and some houses for the mill hands to live in when they were at work.  This prospective city was called Grand Haven.  There was one schooner in the river loaded with lumber, ready to sail for the west side of the lake as soon as the wind should change and become favorable, and we engaged passage for a dollar and a half each.  While waiting for the wind we visited the woods in search of game, but found none.  All the surface of the soil was clear lake sand, and some quite large pine and hemlock trees were half buried in it.  We were not pleased with this place for it looked as if folks must get their grub from somewhere else or live on fish.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Next morning we were off early, as the wind had changed, but the lake was very rough and a heavy choppy sea was running.  Before we were half way across the lake nearly allwere sea-sick, passengers and sailors.  The poor fellow at the helm stuck to his post casting up his accounts at the same time, putting on an air of terrible misery.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This, I thought was pretty hard usage for a land-lubber like myself who had never been on such rough water before.  The effect of this sea-sickness was to cure me of a slight fever and ague, and in fact the cure was so thorough that I have never had it since.  As <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As we travelled westward the praries seemed smaller with now and then some oak openings between.  Some of the farms seemed to be three or four years old, and what had been laid out as towns consisted of from three to six houses, small and cheap, with plenty of vacant lots.  The soil looked rich, as though it might be very productive.  We passed several small lakes that had nice fish in them, and plenty of ducks on the surface.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Walking began to get pretty tiresome.  Great blisters would come on our feet, and, tender as they were, it was a great relief to take off our boots and go barefoot for a while when the ground was favorable.  We crossed a wide prairie and came down to the Rock river where there were a few houses on the east side <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We went to bed and soon found it had other occupants beside ourselves, which, if they were small were lively and spoiled our sleeping.  We left before breakfast, and a few miles out on the prairie we came to a house occupied by a woman and one child, and we were told we could have breakfast if we could wait to have it cooked.  Everything looked cheap but cherry, and after waiting a little while outside we were called <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We labored along and in time came to another small place called Hamilton's Diggings where some lead mines were being worked.  We stopped at a long, iow log house with a porch the entire length, and called for bread and milk, which was soon set before us.  The lady was washing and the man was playing with a child on the porch.  The little thing was trying to walk, the man would swear terribly at it--not in an angrv way, but in a sort of careless, blasphemous style that was terribly shocking.  I thought of the child being reared in the midst of such bad language and reflected on the kind of people we were meeting 1n this far away place.  They seemed more wicked and profane the farther west we walked.  I had always lived in a more moral and temperate atmosphere, and I was learning more of some things in the world than I had ever known before.  I had little to say and much to see and listen to and my early precepts were not forgotten.  No work was to be had here and we set out across the prairie toward Mineral Point, twenty miles away.  When within four miles of that place we stopped at the house of Daniel Parkinson, a fine looking two-story building, and after the meal was over Mr. Henry hired out to him for $16 per <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:month, and went to work that day.  I heard of a job of cutting cordwood six miles away and went after it, for our money was getting very scarce, but when I reached the place I found a man had been there half an hour before and secured the job.  The proprietor, Mr. Crow, gave me my dinner which I accepted with many thanks, for it saved my coin to pay for the next meal.  I now went to Mineral Point, and searched the town over for work.  My purse contained thirty-five cents only and I slept in an unoccupied out house without supper.  I bought crackers and dried beef for ten cents in the morning and made my first meal since the day before, felt pretty low-spirited.  I then went to Vivian's smelting furnace where they bought lead ore, smelted it, and ruu it into pigs of about 70 pounds each.  He said he had a job for me if I could do it  The furnace was propelled by water and they had a small buzz saw for cutting four-foot wood into blocks about a foot long.  These blocks they wanted split up in pieces about an inch square to mix in with charcoal in smelting ore.  He said he would board me with the other men, and give me a dollar and a quarter a cord for splitting the wood.  I felt awfully poor, and a stranger, and this was a beginning for me at any rate, so I went to work with a will and never lost a minute of daylight till I had split up all the wood and filled his woodhouse completely up.  The board was very coarse--bacon, potatoes, and bread--a man cook, and bread mixed up with salt and water.  The old log house where we lodged was well infested with troublesome insects which worked nights at any rate, whether they rested days or not, and the beds had a mild odor of pole-cat.  The house was long, low and without windows.  In one end was a fireplace, and there were two tiers of bunks on each side, supplied with straw only.  In the space between the bunks was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The country was rolling, and there were many beautiful brooks and clear springs of water, with ferile soil.  The Cornish miners were in the majority and governed the localitv politically.  My health was excellent, and so long as I had my gun and ammunition I could kill game enough to live on, for prairie chickens and deer could be easily killed, and meat alone would sustain life, so I had no special fears of starvattion.  I was now paid off, and went back to see m companion, Mr. Henry.  I did not hear of any more work, so I concluded I would start back toward my old home in Michigan, and shouldered my bundle and gun, turning my face eastward for a long tramp across the prairie.  I knew I had a long tramp before me, but I thought best to head that way, for my capital was only ten dollars, and I might be compelled to walk the whole distance.  I walked till about noon and then sat down in the shade of a tree to rest for this was June and pretty warm.  I was now alone in a big territory, thinly settled, and thought of my father's home, the well set table, all happy and well fed at any rate, and here was my venture, a sort of forlorn hope.  Prospects were surely very gloomy for me here away out west in Wisconsin Territory, without a relative, friend or acquaintance to call upon, and very small means to travel two hundred and fifty miles of lonely road--perhaps all the way on foot.  There were no laborers required, hardly any money in sight, and no chance for business.  I knew it would be a safe course to proceed toward home, for I had no fear of starving, the weather was warm and I could easily walk home long before winter should come again.  Still the outlook was not very pleasing to one in my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I chose a route which led me some distance north of the one we travelled when we came west, but it was about the same.  Every house was a new settler, and hardly one who had yet produced anything to live upon.  In due time I came to the Rock River, and the only house in sight was upon the east bank.  I could see a boat over there and so I called for it, and a young girl came over with a canoe for me.  I took a paddle and helped her hold the boat against the current, and we made the landing safely.  I paid her ten cents for ferriage and went on again.  The country was now level, with burr-oak openings.  Near sundown I came to a small prairie of about 500 acres surrounded by scattering burr-oak timber, with not a hill in sight, and it seemed to me to be the most beautiful spot on earth.  This I found to belong to a man named Meachem, who had an octagon concrete house built on one side of the opening.  The house had a hollow column in the center, and the roof was so constructed that all the rain water went down this central column into a cistern below for house use.  The stairs wound around this central column, and the whole affair was quite different from the most of settlers' houses.  I staid here all night, had supper and breakfast, and paid my bill of thirty-five cents.  He had no work for me so I went on again.  I crossed Heart Prairie, passed through a strip of woods, and out at Round Prairie.  It was level as a floor with a slight rise in one corner, and on it were five or six settlers.  Here fortune favored me, for here I found a man whom I knew, who once lived in Michigan, and was one of our neighbors there for some time.  His name was Nelson Cornish.  I rested here a few days, and made a bargain to work for him two or three days every week for my board as long as I wished to stay.  As I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Before thinking of going west again I had to go to Southport on the lake and get our clothes we had left in our box when we passed in the spring.  So I started one morning at break of day, with a long cane in each hand to help me along, for I had nothing to carry, not even wearing a coat.  This was a new road, thinly settled, and a few log houses building.  I got a bowl of bread and milk at noon and then hurried on again.  The last twenty miles was clear prairie, and houses were very far apart, but little more thickly settled as I neared Lake Michigan.  I arrived at the town just after dark, and went to a tavern and inquired about the things.  I was told that the warehouse had been broken into and robbed, and the proprietor had fled for parts unknown.  This robbed me of all my good clothes, amd I could now go back as lightly loaded as when I came.  I found I had walked sixty miles in that one day, and also found myself very stiff and sore so that I did not start back next day, and I took three days for the return trip--a very unprofitable journey.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I was now ready to go west, and coming across a pet deer which I had tamed, I knew if I left it it would wander away with the first wild ones that came along, and so I killed it and made my friends a present of some venison.  I chose still a new route this time, that I could see all that was possible of this big <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>In point of health it seemed to me to be far better than Michigan.  In Mr. Henry's letter to me he had said that he had taken a timber claim in "Kentuck Grove," and had all the four-foot wood engaged to cut at thirty-seven cents a cord.  He said we could board ourselves and save a little money and that in the spring he would go back to Michigan with me.  This had decided me to go back to Mineral Point.  I stopped a week or two with a man named Webb, hunting with him, and sold game enough to bring me in some six or seven dollars, and then resumed my journey.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On my way I found a log house ten miles from a neighbor just before I got to the Picatonica Piver.  It belonged to a Mr. Shook who, with his wife and three children, lived on the edge of a small prairie, and had a good crop of corn.  He invited me to stay with him a few days, and as I was tired I accepted his offer and we went out together and brought in a deer.  We had plenty of corn bread, venison and coffee, and lived well.  After a few days he wanted to kill a steer and he led it to a proper place while I shot it in the head.  We had no way to hang it up so he rolled the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It was now getting nearly dark and while he was splitting the back bone with an axe, it slipped in his greasy hands and glancing, cut a gash in my leg six inches above the knee.  I was now laid up for two or three weeks, but was well cared for at his house.  Before I could resume my journey snow had fallen to the depth of about six inces, which made it rather unpleasant walking, but in a few days I reached Mr. Henry's camp in "Kentuck Grove," when after comparing notes, we both began swinging our axes and piling up cordwood, cooking potatoes, bread, bacon, coffee and flapjacks ourselves, which we enjoyed with a relish.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I now went to work for Peter Parkinson, who paid me thirteen dollars per month, and I remained with him till spring.  While with him a very sad affliction came to him in the loss of his wife.  He was presented by her with his first heir, and during her illness she was cared for by her mother, Mrs. Cullany, who had come to live with them during the winter.  When the little babe was two or three weeks old the mother was feeling in such good spirits that she was left alone a little while, as Mrs. Cullany was attending to some duties which called her elsewhere.  When she returned she was surprised to see that both Mrs. Parkinson and the babe were gone.  Everyone turned out to search for her.  I ran to the smoke house, the barn, the stable in quick order, and not finding her a search was made for tracks, and we soon discovered that she had passed over a few steps leading over a fence and down an incline toward the spring house, and there fallen, face downward, on the floor of the house which was covered only a few inches deep with water lay the unfortunate woman and her child, both dead.  This was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I now worked awhile again with Mr. Henry and we sold our wood to Bill Park, a collier, who made and sold charcoal to the smelters of lead ore.  When the ice was gone in the streams, Henry and I shouldered our guns and bundles, and made our way to Milwaukee, where we arrived in the course of a few days.  The town was small and cheaply built, and had no wharf, so that when the steamboat came we had to go out to it in a small boat.  The stream which came in here was too shallow for the steamer to enter.  When near the lower end of the lake we stopped at an island to take on food and several cords of white birch wood.  The next stopping place was at Michilamackanac, afterward called Mackinaw.  Here was a short wharf, and a little way back a hill, which seemed to me to be a thousand feet high, on which a fort had been built.  On the wharf was a mixed lot of people--Americans, Canadians, Irish, Indians, squaws and pappooses.  I saw there some of the most beautiful fish I had ever seen.  They would weigh twenty pounds or more, and had bright red and yellow spots all over them.  They called them trout, and they were beauties, really.  At the shore near by the Indians were loading a large white birch bark canoe, putting their luggage along the middle lengthways, and the pappooses on top.  One man took a stern seat to steer, and four or five more had seats along the gunwale as paddlers and, as they moved away, their strokes were as even and regular as the motions of an engine, and their crafts danced as lightly on the water as an egg shell.  They were starting for the Michigan shore some eight or ten miles away.  This was the first birch bark canoe I had ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We crossed Lake Huron during the night, and through its outlet, so shallow that the wheels stirred up the mud from the bottom; then through Lake St. Clair and landed safely at Detroit next day.  Here we took the cars on the Michigan Central Railroad, and on our way westward stopped at the very place where we had worked, helping to build the road, a year or more before.  After getting off the train a walk of two and one half miles brought me to my father's house, where I had a right royal welcome, and the questions they asked me about the wild country I had traveled over, how it looked, and how I got along--were numbered by the thousand.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I remained at home until fall, getting some work to do by which I saved some money, but in August was attacked with bilious fever, which held me down for several weeks, but nursed by a tender and loving mother with untiring care, I recovered, quite slowly, but surely.  I felt that I had been close to death, and that this country was not to be compared to Wisconsin with its clear and bubbling springs of health-giving water.  Feeling thus, I determined to go back there again.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>WITH the idea of returning to Wisconsin I made plans for my movements.  I purchased a good outfit of steel traps of several kinds and sizes, thirty or forty in all, made me a pine chest, with a false bottom to separate the traps from my clothing when it was packed in traveling order, the clothes at the top.  My former experience had taught me not to expect to get work there during winter, but I was pretty sure something could be earned by trapping and hunting at this season, and in summer I was pretty sure of something to do.  I had about forty dollars to travel on this time, and quite a stock of experience.  The second parting from home was not so hard as the first one.  I went to Huron, took the steamer to Chicago, then a small, cheaply built town, with rough sidewalks and terribly muddy streets, and the people seemed pretty rough, for sailors and lake captains were numerous, and knock downs quite frequent.  The country for a long way west of town seemed a low, wet marsh or prairie.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Finding a man going west with a wagon and two horses without a load, I hired him to take me and my baggage to my friend Nelson Cornish, at Round Prairie.  They were glad to see me, and as I had not yet got strong from my fever, they persuaded me to stay a while with them and take some medicine, for he was a sort of a doctor.  I think he must have given me a dose of calomel, for I had a terribly sore mouth and could not eat any for two or three weeks.  As soon as I was able to travel I had myself and chest taken to the stage station on the line for the lake to Mineral Point.  I think this place was called Geneva.  On the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I walked about ten miles to the house of a friend named A. Bennett, who was a hunter and lived on the bank of the Picatonica River with his wife and two children.  I had to take many a rest on the way, for I was very weak.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Resting the first few days, Mrs. Bennett's father, Mr. J. P. Dilly, took us out about six miles and left us to hunt and camp for a few days.  We were quite successful, and killed five nice, fat deer, which we dressed and took to Mineral Point, selling them rapidly to the Cornish miners for twenty-five cents a quarter for the meat.  We followed this business till about January first, when the game began to get poor, when we hung up our guns for a while.  I had a little money left yet.  The only money in circulation was Americansilver and British sovereigns.  They would not sell lead ore for paper money nor on credit.  During the spring I used my traps successfully, so that I saved something over board and expenses.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In summer I worked in the mines with Edwin Buck of Bucksport, Maine, but only fonnd lead ore enough to pay our expenses in getting it.  Next winter I chopped wood for thirty-five cents per cord and boarded myself.  This was poor business; poorer than hunting.  In summer I found work at various things, but in the fall Mr. Buck and myself concluded that as we were both hunters and trappers, we would go northward toward Lake Superior on a hunting expedition, and, perhaps remain all winter.  We replenished <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We bought fifty pounds of flour for each of us, and then started up the divide between the Wisconsin and Mississippi Rivers.  On one side flowed the Bad River, and on the other the Kickapoo.  We traveled on this divide about three days, when Mr, Bennett became afraid to go any further, as he had to return alone and the Indians might capture him before he could get back to the settlement,  We camped early one night and went out hunting to get some game for him.  I killed a large, black bear and Mr. Bennett took what he wanted of it, including the skin, and started back next morning.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now cache&acute;d our things in various places, scattering them well.  Some went in hollow logs, and some under heaps of brush or other places, where the Indians could not find them.  We then built a small cabin about six by eight feet in size and four fee high, in shape like a A.  We were not thoroughly pleased with this location and started out to explore the country to the north of us, for we had an idea that it would be better hunting there.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The first day we started north we killed a bear, and filled our stomachs with the fat, sweet meat.  The next night we killed another bear after a little struggling.  The dog made him climb a tree and we shot at him; he would fall to the ground as if dead, but would be on his feet again in an instant, when, after the dog had fastened to his ham, he would climb the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Here we camped on the edge of the pine forest, ate all the fat bear meat we could, and in the morning took separate routes, agreeing to meet again a mile or so farther up a small brook.  I soon saw a small bear walking on a log and shot him dead.  His mate got away, but I set my dog on him and he soon had to climb a tree.  When I came up to where the dog was barking I saw Mr. Bear and fired a ball in him that brought him down.  Just then I heard Mr. Buck shoot close by, and I went to him and found he had killed another and larger bear.  We stayed here another night, dressed our game and sunk the meat in the brook and fastened it down, thinking we might want to get some of it another time.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were so well pleased with this hunting ground that we took the bear skins and went back to camp.  When we got there our clothes were pretty well saturated with bear's oil, and we jokingly said it must have soaked through our bodies, we had eaten so much bear meat.  I began to feel quite sick, and had a bad headache.  I felt as if something must be done, but we had no medicine.  Mr. Buck went down by the creek and dug some roots he called Indian Physic, then steeped them until the infusion seemed as black as molasses, and, when cool told me to take a swallow every fifteen minutes for an hour, then half as much for another hour as long as I could keep it down.  I followed directions and vomited freely and for a long time, but felt better afterward, and soon got well.  It reminded me some of the feelings I had when I was seasick on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It may be interesting to describe how we were dressed to enter on this winter campaign.  We wore mocassins of our own make.  I had a buckskin jumper, and leggins that came up to my hips.  On my head a drab hat that fitted close and had a rim about two inches wide.  In fair weather I went bare-headed, Indian fashion.  I carried a tomahawk which I had made.  The blade was two inches wide and three inches long--the poll two inches long and about as large round as a dime; handle eighteen or twenty inches long with a knob on the end so it would not easily slip from the hand.  Oiled patches for our rifle balls on a string, a firing wire, a charger to measure the powder, and a small piece of leather with four nipples on it for caps--all on my breast, so that I could load very rapidly.  My bed was a comfort I made myself, a little larger than usual.  I lay down on one side of the bed and with my gun close to me, turned the blanket over me.  When out of camp I never left my gun out of my reach.  We had to be real Indians in custom and actions in order to be considered their equals.  We got our food in the same way they did, and so they had nothing to ask us for.  They considered themselves the real kings of the forest.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now determined to move camp, which proved quite a job as we had to pack everything on our backs; which we did for ten or fifteen miles to the bank of a small stream where there were three pine trees, the only ones to be found in many miles.  We made us a canoe of one of them.  While we were making the canoe three Indians came along, and after they had eaten some of our good venison, they left us.  These were the first we had seen and we began to be more cautious and keep everything well hid away from camp and make them think we were as poor as they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We soon had the canoe done and loaded, and embarked on the brook down stream.  We found it rather difficult work, but the stream grew larger and we got along very well.  We came to one place where otter signs seemed fresh, and stopped to set a trap for them.  Our dog sat on the bank and watched the operation, and when we started on we could not get him to ride or follow.  Soon we heard him cry and went back to find he had the trap on his fore foot.  To get it off we had to put a forked stick over his neck and hold him down, he was so excited over his mishap.  When he was released he left at full speed and was never seen by us after.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When we got well into the pine woods we camped and cache&acute;d our traps and provisions on an island, and made our camp further down the stream and some little distance from the shore.  We soon found this was very near a logging camp, and as no one had been living there for a year, we moved camp down there and occupied one of the empty cabins.  We began to set dead-fall traps in long lines in many different directions, blazing the trees so we could find them if the snow came on.  West of this about ten miles, where we had killed some deer earlier, we made a V-shaped cabin and made dead falls many miles around to catch fishes, foxes, mink and raccoons.  We made weekly journeys to the places and generally staid about two nights.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One day when going over my trap lines I came to a trap which I had set where I had killed a deer, and saw by the snow that an eagle had been caught in the trap and had broken the chain and gone away.  I followed on the trail he made and soon found him.  He tried to fly but the trap was to heavy, and he could only go slowly and a little way.  I fired and put a ball <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We had not taken pains to keep track of the day of the week or month; the rising and setting of the sun and the changes of the moon were all the almanacs we had, Then snow came about a foot deep, and some days were so cold we could not leave our camp fire at all.  As no Indians appeared we were quite successful and kept our bundle of furs in a hollow standing tree some distance from camp, and when we went that way we never stopped or left any sign that we had a deposit there.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some time after it was all frozen up solid, some men with two yoke of oxen came up to cut and put logs in the river to raft down when the ice went out.  With them came a shingle weaver, with a pony and a small sled, and some Indians also.  We now had to take up all of our steel traps, and rob all our dead-falls and quit business generally--even then they got some of our traps before we could get them gathered in.  We were now comparatively idle.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Until these loggers came we did not know exactly where we were situated, but they told us we were on the Lemonai river, a branch of the Wisconsin, and that we could get out by going west till we found the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Of course the presence of the Indians made game scarce, but the mill men told us if we would go up farther into the marten country they thought we would do well.  We therefore made us a hand sled, put some provisions and traps on board, and started up the river on the ice.  As we went the snow grew deeper and we had to cut hemlock boughs for a bed on top of the snow.  It took about a half a cord of wood to last us all night, and it was a trouble to cut holes in the ice to water, for it was more than two feet thick.  Our fire kindled on the snow, would be two or three feet below on the ground, by morning.  This country was heavily timbered with cedar, or spruce and apparently very level.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One day we saw two otters coming toward us on the ice.  We shot one, but as the other gun missed fire, the other one escaped, for I could not overtake it in the woods.  We kept on up the river till we began to hear the Indians' guns, and then we camped and did not fire a gun for two days, for we were afraid we might be discovered and robbed, and we knew we could not stay long after our grub was gone.  All the game we could catch was the marten or sable, which the Indians called <HI REND="italics">Wanbusash</HI>
107.sgm:.  The males were snuff color and the female much darker.  Mink were scarce, and the beaver, living in the river bank, could not be got at till <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We now began to make marten traps or dead-falls, and set them for this small game.  There were many cedar and tamarack swamps, indeed that was the principal feature, but there were some ridges a little higher where some small pines and beech grew.  Now our camp was one place where there was no large timber caused by the stream being dammed by the beaver.  Here were some of the real Russian Balsam trees, the most beautiful in shape I had ever seen.  They were very dark green, the boughs very thick, and the tree in shape like an inverted top.  Our lines of trips led for miles in every direction marked by blazed trees.  We made a trap of two poles, and chips which we split from the trees.  These were set in the snow and covered with brush, We sometimes found a porcupine in the top of a pine tree.  The only signs of his presence were the chips he made in gnawing the bark for food.  They never came down to the ground as we saw.  They were about all the game that was good to eat.  I would kill one, skin it and drag the carcass after me all day as I set traps, cutting off bits for bait, and cooking the rest for ourselves to eat.  We tried to eat the marten but it was pretty musky and it was only by putting on plenty of salt and pepper that we managed to eat them.  We were really forced to do it if we remained here.  We secured a good many of these little fellows which have about the the best fur that is found in America.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were here about three weeks, and our provisions giving out and the ice becoming tender in the swamp were two pretty strong reasons for our getting out, so we shouldered our packs of fur and our guns and, getting our course from a pocket-compass, we started out.  As we pushed on we came to some old windfalls that were troublesome to get through.  The dense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Mr. Buck got so completely tired that he threw away his traps.  We reached our starting place at O'Neil's saw-mill after many days of the hardest work, and nearly starved, for we had seen no game on our trip.  We found our traps and furs all safe here and as this stream was one of the tributaries of the Mississippi, we decided to make us a boat and float down toward that noted stream,  We secured four good boards and built the boat in which we started down the river setting traps and moving at our leisure.  We fonnd plenty of fine ducks, two bee trees, and caught some cat-fish with a hook and line we got at the mill.  We also caught some otter, and, on a little branch of the river killed two bears, the skin of one of them weighing five pounds.  We met a keel boat being poled up the river, and with the last cent of money we possessed bought a little flour of them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About the first of May we reached Prairie du Chien.  Here we were met with some surprise, for Mr. Brisbois said he had heard we were killed or lost.  He showed us through his warehouses and pointed out to us the many bales of different kinds of furs he had on hand.  He told us we were the best fur handlers he had seen, and paid us two hundred dollars in American gold for what we had.  We then stored our traps in the garret of one of his warehouses, which was of stone, two stories and an attic, as we thought of making another trip to this country if all went well.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now entered our skiff again and went on down the great river till we came to a place nearly opposite Mineral Point, when we gave our boat to a poor settler, and with guns and bundles on our backs took a atraight shoot for home on foot.  The second day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I invested all of my hundred dollars in buying eighty acres of good Government land.  This was the first $100 I ever had and I felt very proud to be a land owner.  I felt a little more like a man now than I had ever felt before, for the money was hard earned and all mine.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>MR. BUCK and myself concluded we would try our luck at lead mining for the summer and purchased some mining tools for the purpose.  We camped out and dug holes around all summer, getting just about enough to pay our expenses--not a very encouraging venture, for we had lived in a tent and had picked and shoveled and blasted and twisted a windlass hard enough to have earned a good bit of money.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the fall we concluded to try another trapping tour, and set out for Prairie du Chien.  We knew it was a poor place to spend money up in the woods, and when we got our money it was all in a lump and seemed to amount to something.  Mr. Brisbois said that the prospects were very poor indeed, for the price of fur was very low and no prospect of a better market.  So we left our traps still on storage at his place and went back again.  This was in 1847, and before Spring the war was being pushed in Mexico.  I tried to enlist for this service, but there were so many ahead of me I could not get a chance.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I still worked in the settlement and made a living, but had no chance to improve my land.  The next winter I lived with Mr A. Bennett, hunted deer and sold them at Mineral Point, and in this way made and saved a few dollars.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There had been from time to time rumors of a better country to the west of us and a sort of a pioneer, or western fever would break out among the people occasionally.  Thus in 1845 I had a slight touch of the disease on account of the stories they told us about Oregon.  It was reported that the Goverment would give a man a good farm if he would go and settle, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1848-49 news began to come that there was gold in California, but not generally believed till it came through a U. S. officer, and then, as the people were used to mines and mining, a regular gold fever spread as if by swift contagion.  Mr. Bennett was aroused and sold his farm, and I felt a change in my Oregon desires and had dreams at might of digging up the yellow dust. Nothing would cure us then but a trip, and that was quickly decided on.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As it would be some weeks yet before grass would start, I concluded to haul my canoe and a few traps over to a branch of the Wisconsin, and make my way to Prairie du Chien, do a little trapping, get me an Indian pony on which to ride to California.  There were no ponies to be had at Mineral Point.  Getting a ride up the river on a passing steamboat I reached Prairie La Crosse, where the only house was that of a Dutch trader from whom I bought a Winnebago pony, which he had wintered on a little brushy island, and I thought if he could winter on brush and rushes he must be tough enough to take me across the plains.  He cost me $30, and I found him to be a poor, lazy little fellow.  However, I thought that when he got some good grass, and a little fat on his ribs he might have more life, and so I hitched a rope to him and drove him ahead down the river.  When I came to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Before leaving Bennett's I had my gun altered over to a pill lock and secured ammunition to last for two years.  I had tanned some nice buckskin and had a good outfit of clothes made of it, or rather cut and made it myself.  Where I crossed the Bad Axe was a the battle ground where Gen. Dodge fought the Winnebago Indians.  At Prairie du Chien I found a letter from Mr. Bennett, saying that the grass was so backward he would not start up for two or three weeks, and I had better come back and start with them; but as the letter bore no date I could only guess at the exact time.  I had intended to strike directly west from here to Council Bluffs and meet them there, but now hought perhaps I had better go back to Mineral Point and start out with them there, or follow on rapidly after them if by any chance they had already started.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On my way back I found the Kickapoo river too high to ford, so I pulled some basswood bark and made a raft of a couple of logs, on which to carry my gun and blanket; starting the pony across I followed after.  He swam across quickly, but did not seem to like it on the other side, so before I got across, back he came again, not paying the least attention to my scolding.  I went back with the raft, which drifted a good way down stream, and caught the rascal and started him over again, but when I got half way across he jumped and played the same joke on me again.  I began to think of the old puzzle of the story of the man with the fox, the goose and a peck of corn, but I solved it by making a basswood rope to which I tied a stone and threw across, then sending the pony over with the other end.  He staid this time, and after three days of swimming streams and pretty hard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I was a little troubled, but set out light loaded for Dubuque, crossed the river there and then alone across Iowa, over wet and muddy roads, till I fell in with some wagons west of the Desmoines River.  They were from Milwaukee, owned by a Mr. Blodgett, and I camped with them a few nights, till we got to the Missouri River.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I rushed ahead the last day or two and got there before them.  There were a few California wagons here, and some campers, so I put my pony out to grass and looked around.  I waded across the low bottom to a strip of dry land next to the river, where there was a post office, store, and a few cabins.  I looked first for a letter, but there was none.  Then I began to look over the cards in the trading places and saloons, and read the names written on the logs of the houses, and everywhere I thought there might be a trace of the friends I sought.  No one had seen or knew them.  After looking half a day I waded back again to the pony--pretty blue.  I thought first I would go back and wait another year, but there was a small train near where I left the pony, and it was not considered very safe to go beyond there except with a pretty good train.  I sat down in camp and turned the matter over in my mind, and talked with Chas. Dallas of Lynn, Iowa, who owned the train.  Bennett had my outfit and gun, while I had his light gun, a small, light tent, a frying pan, a tin cup, one woolen shirt and the clothes on my back.  Having no money to get another outfit, I about concluded to turn back when Dallas said that if I would drive one of his teams through, he would board me, and I could turn my pony in with his loose horses; I thought it over, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This was in a slave state, and here I saw the first negro auction.  One side of the street had a platform such as we build for a political speaker.  The auctioneer mounted this with a black boy about 18 years old, and after he had told all his good qualities and had the boy stand up bold and straight, he called for bids, and they started him at $500.  He rattled away as if he were selling a steer, and when Mr. Rubideaux, the founder of St. Jo bid $800, he went n higher and the boy was sold.  With my New England notions it made quite an impression on me.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Here Dallas got his supplies, and when the flour and bacon was loaded up the ferryman wanted $50 to take the train across.  This Dallas thought too high and went back up the river a day's drive, where he got across for $30.  From this crossing we went across the country without much of a road till we struck the road from St. Jo, and were soon on the Platte bottom.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We found some fine strawberries at one of the camps across the country.  We found some hills, but now the country was all one vast prairie, not a tree in sight till we reached the Platte, there some cottonwood and willow.  At the first camp on the Platte I rolled up in my blanket under the wagon and thought more than I slept, but I was in for it and no other way but to go on.  I had heard that there were two forts, new Ft. Kearny and Ft. Laramie, on the south side of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>If I should not please Mr. Dallas and get turned off with only my gun and pony I should be in a pretty bad shape, but I decided to keep right on and take the chances on the savages, who would get only my hair and my gun as my contribution to them if they should be hostile.  I must confess, however, that the trail ahead did not look either straight or bright to me, but hoped it might be better than I thougnt.  So I yoked my oxen and cows to the wagon and drove on.  All the other teams had two drivers each, who took turns, and thus had every other day off for hunting if they chose, but I had to carry the whip every day and leave my gun in the wagon.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When we crossed Salt Creek the banks were high and we had to tie a strong rope to the wagons and with a few turns around a post, lower them down easily, while we had to double the teams to get them up the other side.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Night came on before half the wagons were over, and though it did not rain the water rose before morning so it was ten feet deep.  We made a boat of one of the wagon beds, and had a regular ferry, and when they pulled the wagons over they sank below the surface but came out all right.  We came to Pawnee Village, on the Platte, a collection of mud huts, oval in shape, and an entrance low down to crawl in at.  A ground owl and some prairie dogs were in one of them, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Dallas and his family rode in the two-horse wagon, Dick Field was cook, and the rest of us drove the oxen.  We put out a small guard at night to watch for Indians and keep the stock together so there might be no delay in searching for them.  When several miles from Ft. Kearney I think on July 3rd, we camped near the river where there was a slough and much cottonwood and willow.  Just after sundown a horse came galloping from the west and went in with our horses that were feeding a little farther down.  In the morning two soldiers came from the fort, inquiring after the stray horse, but Dallas said he had seen none, and they did not hunt around among the willows for the lost animal.  Probably it would be the easiest way to report back to the fort--"Indians got him."  When we hitched up in the morning he put the horse on the off side of his own, and when near the fort, he went ahead on foot and entertained the officers while the men drove by, and the horse was not discovered.  I did not like this much, for if we were discovered, we might be roughly handled, and perhaps the property of the innocent even confiscated.  Really my New England ideas of honesty were somewhat shocked.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Reaching the South Platte, it took us all day to ford the sandy stream, as we had first to sound out a good crossing by wading through ourselves, and when we started our teams across we dare not stop a moment for fear the wagons would sink deep into the quicksands.  We had no mishaps in crossing, and when well camped on the other side a solitary buffalo made his appearance about 200 yards away and all hands started after him, some on foot.  The horsemen soon got ahead of him, but he did not seem inclined to get out of their way, so they opened fire on him.  He still <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>A few days after this we were stopped entirely by a herd of buffaloes crossing our road.  They came up from the river and were moving south.  The smaller animals seemed to be in the lead, and the rear was brought up by the old cows and the shaggy, burly bulls.  All were moving at a smart trot, with tongues hanging out, and seemed to take no notice of us, though we stood within a hundred yards of them.  We had to stand by our teams and stock to prevent a stampede, for they all seemed to have a great wonder, and somewhat of fear at their relatives of the plains.  After this we often saw large droves of them in the distance.  Sometimes we could see what in the distance seemed a great patch of brush, but by watching closely we could see it was a great drove of these animals.  Those who had leisure to go up to the bluffs often reported large droves in sight.  Antelopes were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>One prominent land mark along the route was what they called Court House Rock, standing to the south from the trail and much resembled an immense square building, standing high above surrounding country.  The farther we went on the more plentiful became the large game, and also wolves and prairie dogs, the first of which seemed to follow the buffaloes closely.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About this time we met a odd looking train going east, consisting of five or six Mormons from Salt Lake, all mounted on small Spanish mules.  They were dressed in buckskin and mocassins, with long spurs jingling at their heels, the rowels fully four inches long, and each one carried a gun, a pistol and a big knife.  They were rough looking fellows with long, matted hair, long beards, old slouch hats and a generally back woods get-up air in every way.  They had an extra pack mule, but the baggage and provisions were very light.  I had heard much about the Mormons, both at Nauvoo and Salt Lake, and some way or other I could not separate the idea of horse thieves from this party, and I am sure I would not like to meet them if I had a desirable mule that they wanted, or any money, or a good looking wife.  We talked with them half an hour or so and then moved on.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We occasionally passed by a grave along the road, and often a small head board would state that the poor unfortunate had died of cholera.  Many of these had been torn open by wolves and the blanket encirling the corpse partly pulled away.  Our route led a few miles north of Chimney Rock, standing on an elevated point like a tall column, so perfect and regular on all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>At Scott's Bluffs, the bluffs came close to the river, so there was considerable hill climbing to get along, the road in other places finding ample room in the bottom.  Here we found a large camp of the Sioux Indians on the bank of a ravine, on both sides of which were some large cottonwood trees.  Away up in the large limbs platforms had been made of poles, on which were laid the bodies of their dead, wrapped in blankets and fastened down to the platform by a sort of a network of smaller poles tightly lashed so that they could not be dragged away or disturbed by wild animals.  This seemed a strange sort of cemetery, but when we saw the desecrated earth-made graves we felt that perhaps this was the best way, even if it was a savage custom.</P>
107.sgm:<P>These Indians were fair-sized men, and pretty good looking for red men.  Some of our men went over to their camp, and some of their youths came down to ours, and when we started on they seemed quite proud that they had learned a little of the English language, but the extent of their knowledge seemed to be a little learned of the ox-drivers, for they would swing their hands at the cattle and cry out "Whoa! haw, g--d d--n."  Whether they knew what was meant, I have my doubts.  They seemed pretty well provided for and begged very little, as they are apt to do when they are hard pressed.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We saw also some bands of Pawnee Indians on the move across the prairies.  They would hitch a long, light pole on each side of a pony, with the ends <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As we passed on beyond Scott's Bluff the game began to be preceptibly scarcer, and what we did find was back from the traveled road, from which it had apparently been driven by the passing hunters.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In time we reached Ft. Laramie, a trading post, where there were some Indian lodges, and we noticed that some of the occupants had lighter complexions than any of the other Indians we had seen.  They had cords of dried buffalo meat, and we purchased some.  It was very fat, but was so perfectly cured that the clear tallow tasted as sweet as a nut.  I thought it was the best dried meat I had ever tasted, but perhaps a good appetite had something to do with it.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As we passed Ft. Laramie we fell in company with some U.S. soldiers who were going to Ft. Hall and thence to Oregon.  We considered them pretty safe to travel with and kept with them for some time, though their rate of travel was less than ours. Among them were some Mormons, employed as teamsters, and in other ways, and they told us there were some Missourians on the road who would never live to see California.  There had been some contests between the Missourians and the Mormons, and I felt rather glad that none of us hailed from Pike county.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We turned into what they called the Black Hills, leaving the Platte to the north of us.  The first night on this road we had the hardest rain I ever experienced, and the only one of any account on our journey.  Our camp was on a level piece of ground on the bank of a dry creek, which soon became a very wet creek indeed, for by morning it was one hundred yards wide and absolutely impassible.  It went down, however, as quickly as it rose, and by ten o'clock it was so low that we easily crossed and went on our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We came out at the river again at the mouth of Deer Creek, and as there was some pretty good coal there quite easy to get, we made camp one day to try to tighten our wagon tires, John Rogers acting as blacksmith.  This was my first chance to reconoitre, and so I took my gun and went up the creek, a wide, treeless bottom.  In the ravines on the south side were beautiful groves of small fir trees and some thick brush, wild rose bushes I think.  I found here a good many heads and horns of elk, and I could not decide whether they had been killed in winter during the deep snow, or had starved to death.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There was a ferry here to cross the river and go up along north side.  Mr. Dallas bought the whole outfit for a small sum and when we were safely over he took with him such ropes as he wanted and tied the boat to the bank.  The road on this side was very sandy and led over and among some rolling hills.  In talking with the men of the U. S. troops in whose company we still were, I gathered much information concerning our road further west.  They said we were entirely too late to get through to California, on account of crossing the Sierra Nevada mountains, which, they said wonld be covered with snow by November, or even earlier, and that we would be compelled to winter at Salt Lake.  Some of the drivers overheard Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This was bad news for me, for I had known of the history of them at Nauvoo and in Missouri, and the prospect of being thrown among them with no money to buy bread was a very sorry prospect for me.  From all I could learn we could not get a chance to work, even for our board there, and the other drivers shared my fears and disappointment.  In this dilemma we called a council, and invited the gentleman in to have an understanding.  He came and our spokesmam stated the case to him, and our fears, and asked him what he had to say to us about it.  He flew quite angry at us, and talked some and swore a great deal more, and the burden of his speech was:--"This train belongs to me and I propose to do with it just as I have a mind to, and I don't care a d--n what you fellows do or say.  I am not going to board you fellows all winter for nothing, and when we get to Salt Lake you can go where you please, for I shall not want you any longer."  We talked a little to him and under the circumstances to talk was about all we could do.  He gave us no satisfaction and left us apparently much offended that we had any care for ourselves.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Then we had some talk among ourselves, at the time, and from day to day as we moved along.  We began to think that the only way to get along at all in Salt Lake would be to turn Mormons. and none of us had any belief or desire that way and could not make up our minds to stop our journey and lose so much time, and if we were not very favored travelers our lot might be cast among the sinners for all time.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were now on the Sweetwater River, and began to see the snow on the Rocky Mountains ahead of us, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The Government party we were with had among them a German mule driver who had a deal of trouble with his team, but who had a very little knowledge of the English language.  When the officers tried to instruct him a little he seemed to get out of patience and would say something very like <HI REND="italics">Sacramento</HI>
107.sgm:<P>The Captain of the company had a very nice looking lady with him, and they carried a fine wall tent which they occupied when they went into camp.  The company cook served their  meals to them in the privacy of their tent, and they seemed to enjoy themselves very nicely.  Everybody though the Captain was very lucky in having such an accomplished companion, and journey along quietly to the gold fields at government expense.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There seemed to be just a little jealousy between the Captain and the Lieutenant, and one day I saw them both standing in angry attitude before the Captain's quarters, both mounted, with their carbines lying across their saddles before them.  They had some pretty sharp, hot words, and it looked as if they both were pretty nearly warmed up to the shooting point.  Once the Lieutenant moved his right hand a little, and the Captain was quick to see it, shouting;--"Let your gun alone or I will make a hole through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The Lieutenant was no coward, but probably thinking that prudence was the better part of valor, refrained from handling his gun, and the two soon rode away in opposite directions.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We passed a lone rock standing in the river bottom on the Sweetwater, which they named Independence Rock.  It was covered with the names of thousands of people who had gone by on that road.  Some were pretty neatly chiseled in, some very rudely scrawled, and some put on with paint.  I spent all the time I could hunting Mr. Bennett's name, but I could not find it anywhere.  To have found his name, and thus to know that he had safely passed this point would have been a little re-assuring in those rather doubtful days.  Some had named the date of their passing, and some of them were probably pretty near the gold fields at this time.</P>
107.sgm:<P>All along in this section we found alkali water near the road, some very strong and dangerous for man or beast to use.  We traveled on up the Sweetwater for some time, and at last came to a place where the road left the river, and we had a a long, hard hill to pull up.  When we reached the top of this we were in the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, the backbone of the American continent.  To the north of us were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It was a remarkable clear and rapid stream and was now low enough to ford.  One of the Government teams set out to make the crossing at a point where it looked shallow enough, but before the lead mules reached the opposite shore, they lost their footing and were forced to swim.  Of course the wagon stopped and the team swung round and tangled up in a bad shape.  They were unhitched and the wagon pulled back, the load was somewhat dampened, for the water came into the wagon box about a foot.  We camped here and laid by one day, having thus quite a little chance to look around.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When we came to the first water that flowed toward the Pacific Coast at Pacific Springs, we drivers had quite a little talk about a new scheme.  We put a great many "ifs" together and thev amounted to about this:--If this stream were large enough; if we had a boat; if we knew the way: if there were no falls or bad places; if we had plenty of provisions; if we were bold enough set out on such a trip, etc., we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>In the course of our rambles we actually did run across the second "if" in the shape of a small ferry boat filled up with sand upon a bar, and it did not take very long to dig it out and put it into shape to use, for it was just large enough to hold one wagon at a time.  Our military escort intended to leave us at this point, as their route now bore off to the north of ours.  I had a long talk with the surgeon who seemed well informed about the country, and asked him about the prospects.  He did not give the Mormons a very good name.  He said to me:--"If you go to Salt Lake City, do not let them know you are from Missouri, for I tell you that many of those from that State will never see California.  You know they were driven from Missouri, and will get revenge if they can."  Both the surgeon and the captain said the stream came out on the Pacific Coast' and that we had no obstacles except cataracts, which they had heard were pretty bad.  I then went to Dallas and told him what we proposed doing and to our surprise he did not offer any objections, and offered me $60 for my pony.  He said he would sell us some flour and bacon for provisions also.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We helped them in crossing the river, which was somewhat difficult, being swift, with boulders in the bottom but we got all safely over and then made the trade we had spoken of.  Dallas paid me for my pony and we took what flour and bacon he would let go.  He gave us some ropes for head and stern lines to our boat and a couple of axes, and we laid these, and our provisions in a pile by the roadside.  Six of us then gave up our whips.  Mr. S. McMahon, a driver, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>So we parted company, the little train slowly moving on its way westward.  Our military captain, the soldier boys, and the gay young lady taking the route to Oregon, and we sitting on the bank of the river whose waters flowed to the great Pacific.  Each company wished the other good luck, we took a few long breaths and then set to work in earnest to carry out our plans.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>ABOUT the first thing we did was to organize and select a captain, and, very much against my wishes, I was chosen to this important position.  Six of us had guns of some sort, Richard Field, Dallas's cook, was not armed at all.  We had one regular axe and a large camp hatche, which was about the same as an axe, and several very small hatchets owned by the men.  All our worldly goods were piled up on the bank, and we were alone.</P>
107.sgm:<P>An examination of the old ferry boat showed it to be in pretty good condition, the sand with which it had been filled keeping it very perfectly.  We found two oars in the sand under the boat, and looked up some poles to assist us in navigation.  Our cordage was rather scant but the best we could get and all we could muster.  The boat was about twelve feet long and six or seven feet wide, not a very well proportioned craft, but having the ability to carry a pretty good load.  We swung it up to the bank and loaded up our goods and then ourselves.  It was not a heavy load for the craft, and it looked as if we were taking the most sensible way to get to the Pacific, and almost wondered that everybody was so blind as not to see it as we did.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This party was composed of W. L. Manley, M. S. McMahon, Charles and Joseph Hazelrig, Richard Field, Alfred Walton and John Rogers.  We untied the ropes, gave the boat a push and commenced to move down the river with ease and comfort, feeling much happier than we would had we been going toward Salt Lake with the prospect of wintering there.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At the mouth of Ham's Fork we passed a camp of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As--we were floating down the rapid stream it became more and more a rapid, roaring river, and the bed contained many dangerous rocks that were difficult to shun.  Each of us had a setting-pole, and we ranged ourselves along the sides of the boat and tried to keep ourselves clear from the rocks and dangers.  The water was not very deep and made such a dashing noise as the current rushed among the rocks that one had to talk pretty loud to be heard.  As we were gliding along quite swiftly, I set my pole on the bottom and gave the boat a sudden push to avoid a boulder, when the pole stuck in the crevice between two rocks, and instead of losing the pole by the sudden jerk I gave, I was the one who was very suddenly yanked from the boat by the spring of the pole, and landed in the middle of the river.  I struck pretty squarely on my back, and so got thoroughly wet, but swam for shore amid the shouts of the boys, who waved their hats and hurrahed for the captain when they saw he was not hurt.  I told them that was nothing as we were on our way to Califofnia by water any way, and such things must be expected.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The next day after this I went on shore and sighted a couple of antelope, one of which I shot, which gave us good grub.  and good appetites we already had.  As near as we could estimate we floated about thirty miles a day, which beat the pace of tired oxen considerably.  In one place there was a fringe of thick willows along the bank, and a little farther back a perpendicular bluff, whiel between the two was a strip of fine green grass.  As we were passing this we scared up a band of elk in this grass meadow, and they all took a run <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Thus far we had a very pleasant time, each taking his turn in working the boat while the others rested or slept.  About the fifth day when we were floating along in very gently running water, I had lay down to take a rest and a little sleep.  The mountains here  on both sides of the river were not very steep, but ran gradually for a mile or so.  While I was sleeping the boat came around a small angle in the stream, and all at once there seemed to be a higher, steeper range of mountains right across the valley.  The boys thought the river was coming to a rather sudden end and hastily awoke me, and for the life of me I could not say they were not right, for there was no way in sight for it to go to.  I remembered while looking over a map the military men had I found a place named Brown's Hole, and I told the boys I guessed we were elected to go on foot to California after all, for I did not propose to follow the river down any sort of a hole into any mountain.  We were floating directly toward a perpendicular cliff, and I could not see any hole any where, nor any other place where it could go.  Just as we were within a stone's throw of the cliff, the river turned sharply to the right and went behind a high point of the mountain that seemed to stand squarely on edge.  This was really an immense crack or crevice, certainly 2000 feet deep and perhaps much more, and seemed much wider at the bottom than it did at the top, 2000 feet or more above our heads.  Each wall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We were now for some time between two rocky walls between which the river ran very rapidly, and we often had to get out and work our boat over the rocks, sometimes lifting it off when it caught.  Fortunately we had a good tow line, and one would take this and follow along the edge when it was so he could walk.  The mountains seemed to get higher and higher on both sides as we advanced, and in places we could see quite a number of trees overhanging the river, and away up on the rocks we could see the wild mountain sheep looking down at us.  They were so high that they seemed a mile away, and consequently safe enough.  This was their home, and they seemed very independent, as if they dared us fellows to come and see them.  There was an old cottonwood tree on bank with marks of an axe on it, but this was all the sign we saw that any one had ever been here before us.  We got no game while passing through this deep can&tilde;on and began to feel the need of some fresh provisions very sorely.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We passed many deep, dark can&tilde;ons coming into the main stream, and at one place, where the rock hung a little over the river and had a smooth wall, I climbed up above the high water mark which we could clearly see, and with a mixture of gunpowder and grease for paint, and a bit of cloth tied to a stick for a brush, I painted in fair sized letters on the rock, CAPT. W. L. MANLEY, U.S.A.  We did not know whether we were within the bounds of the United States or not, and we put on all the majesty we could under the circumstances.  I don't think the sun ever shone down to the bottom of the can&tilde;on, for the sides were literally sky-high, for the sky, and a very small portion of that was all we could see.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Just before night we came to a place where some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>While I was looking up toward the mountain top, and along down the rocky wall, I saw a smooth place about fifty feet above where the great rocks had broken out, and there, painted in large black letters, were the words "ASHLEY, 1824."  This was the first real evidence we had of the presence of a white man in this wild place, and from this record it seems that twenty-five years before some venturesome man had here inscribed his name.  I have since heard there were some persons in St. Louis of this name, and of some circumstances which may link them with this early traveler.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When we came to look around we found that another big rock blocked the channel 300 yards below, and the water rushed around it with a terrible swirl.  So we unloaded the boat again and made the attempt to get around it as we did the other rocks.  We tried to get across the river but failed.  We now, all but one, got on the great rock with our poles, and the one man was to ease the boat down with the rope as far as he could, then let go and we would stop it with our poles and push it out into the stream and let it go over, but the current was so strong that when the boat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This seemed a very sudden ending to our voyage and there were some very rapid thoughts as to whether we would not safer among the Mormons than out in this wild country, afoot and alone.  Our boat was surely lost beyond hope, and something must be done.  I saw two pine trees, about two feet through, growing on a level place just below, and I said to them that we must decide between going afoot and making some canoes out of these pine trees.  Canoes were decided on, and we never let the axes rest, night or day till we had them completed.  While my working shift was off, I took an hour or two, for a little hunting, and on a low divide partly grown over with small pines and juniper I found signs, old and new, of many elk, and so concluded the country was well stocked with noble game.  The two canoes, when completed were about fifteen feet long and two feet wide, and we lashed them together for greater security.  When we tried them we found they were too small to carry our load and us, and we landed half a mile below, where there were two other pine trees--white pine--about two feet through, and much taller than the ones we had used.  We set at work making a large canoe of these.  I had to direct the work for I was the only one who had ever done such work.  We worked night and day at these canoes, keeping a big fire at night and changing off to keep the axes busy.  This canoe we made twenty-five or thirty feet long, and when completed they made me captain of it and into it loaded the most valuable things, such as provisions, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This rapid rate soon brought us out of the high mountains and into a narrow valley when the stream became more moderate in its speed and we floated along easily enough.  In a little while after we struck this slack water, as we were rounding a point, I saw on a sand bar in the river, five or six elk, standing and looking at us with much curiosity.  I signaled for those behind to go to shore, while I did the same, and two or three of us took our guns and went carefully down along the bank, the thick brush hiding us from them, till we were in fair range, then selecting our game we fired on them.  A fine doe fell on the opposite bank, and a magnificent buck which Rogers and I selected, went below and crossed the river on our side.  We followed him down along the bank which was here a flat meadow with thick bunches of willows, and soon came pretty near to Mr. Elk who started off on a high and lofty trot.  As he passed an opening in the bushes I put a ball through his head and he fell.  He was a monster.  Rogers, who was a butcher, said it would weigh five hundred or six hundred pounds.  The horns were fully six feet long, and by placing the horns on the ground, point downwards, one could walk under the skull between them.  We packed the meat to our canoes, and staid up all night cutting the meat in strips and drying it, to reduce bulk and perserve it, and it made the finest kind of food, fit for an epicure.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Starting on again, the river lost more and more of of its rapidity as it came out into a still wider valley, and became quite sluggish.  We picked red berries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We saw one place where a large band of horses had crossed, and as the men with them must have had a raft, we were pretty sure that the men in charge of them were white men,  Another day we passed the mouth of a swollen stream which came in from the west side.  The water was thick with mud, and the fish, about a foot long, came to the top, with their noses out of water.  We tried to catch some, but could not hold them.  One night we camped on an island, and I took my gun and went over toward the west side where I killed a deer.  The boys hearing me shoot, came out, guns in hand, thinking I might need help, and I was very glad of their assistance.  To make our flour go as far as possible we ate very freely of meat, and having excellent appetites it disappeared very fast.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It took us two or three days to pass this beautiful valley, and then we began to get into a rougher country again, the can&tilde;ons deeper and the water more tumultuous.  McMahon and I had the lead always, in the big canoe.  The mountains seemed to change into bare rocks and get higher and higher as we floated along.  After the first day of this the river <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Some alders and willows grew upon the bank and up quite high on the mountains we could see a little timber.  Some days we did not go more than four or five miles, and that was serious work, loading and unloading our canoes, and packing them over the boulders, with only small streams of water curling around between them.  We went barefoot most of the time, for we were more than half of the time in the water which roared and dashed so loud that we could hardly heard each other speak.  We kept getting more and more venturesome and skillful, and managed to run some very dangerous rapids in safety.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On the high peaks above our heads we could see the Rocky Mountain sheep looking defintly at us from their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>One afternoon we came to a sudden turn in the river, more than a right angle, and, just below, a fall of two feet or more.  This I ran in safety, as did the rest who followed and we cheered at our pluck and skill.  Just after this the river swung back the other way at a right angle or more, and I quickly saw there was danger below and signaled them to go on shore at once, and lead the canoes over the dangerous rapids.  I ran my own canoe near shore and got by the rapid safely, waiting for the others to come also.  They did not obey my signals but thought to run the rapid the same as I did.  The channel here was straight for 200 yards, without a boulder in it, but the stream was so swift that it caused great, rolling waves in the center, of a kind I have never seen anywhere else.  The boys were not skillful enough to navgate this stream, and the suction drew them to the center where the great waves rolled them over and over, bottom side up and every way.  The occupants of our canoe let go and swam to shore.  Fields had always been afraid of water and had worn a life perserver every day since we left the wagons.  He threw up his hands and splashed and kicked at a terrible rate, for he could not swim, and at last made solid ground.  One of the canoes came down into the eddy below, where it lodged close to the shore, bottom up.  Alfred Walton in the other canoe could not swim, but held on to the gunwale with a death grip, and it went <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>McMahon and I threw everything out of the big canoe and pushed out after him.  I told Mc. to kneel down so I could see over him to keep the craft off the rocks, and by changing his paddle from side to side as ordered, he enabled me to make quick moves and avoid being dashed to pieces.  We fairly flew, the boys said, but I stood up in the stern and kept it clear of danger till we ran into a clear piece of river and overtook Walton clinging to the overturned boat; McMahon seized the boat and I paddled all to shore, but Walton was nearly dead and could hardly keep his grasp on the canoe.  We took him to a sandy place and worked over him and warmed him in the sun till he came to life again, then built a fire and laid him up near to it to get dry and warm.  If the canoe had gone on 20 yards farther with him before we caught it, he would have gone into another long rapid and been drowned.  We left Walton by the fire and crossing the river in the slack water, went up to where the other boys were standing, wet and sorry-looking, say that all was gone and lost.  Rogers put his hand in his pocket and pulled out three half dollars and said sadly:--"Boys, this is all I am worth in the world."  All the clothes he had were a pair of overalls and a shirt.  If he had been possessed of a thousand in gold he would have been no richer, for there was no one to buy from and nothing to buy.  I said to them:  "Boys, we can't help what has happened, we'll do the best we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We all got into the two canoes and went down to Walton, where we camped and staid all night for Walton's benefit.  While we were waiting I took my gun and tried to climb up high enough to see how much longer this horrible can&tilde;on was going to last, but after many attempts, I could not get high enough to see in any direction.  The mountain was all bare rocks in terraces, but it was impossible to climb from one to the other, and the benches were all filled with broken rocks that had fallen from above.</P>
107.sgm:<P>By the time I got back to camp, Walton was dry and warm and could talk.  He said he felt better, and pretty good over his rescue.  When he was going under the water, it seemed sometimes as if he never would come to the top again, but he held on and eventually came out all right.  He never knew how he got to shore, he was so nearly dead when rescued.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The next morning Walton was so well we started on.  We were now very poorly armed.  My rifle and McMahon's shotgun were all the arms we had for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:seven of us, and we could make but a poor defence it attacked by man or beast, to say nothing of providing ourselves with food.  The mountains on each side were very bare of timber, those on the east side particularly so, and very high and barren.  Toward night we were floating along in a piece of slack water, the river below made a short turn around a high and rocky point almost perpendicular from the water.  There was a terrace along the side of this point about fifty feet up, and the bench grew narrower as it approached the river.  As I was coming down quite close under this bank I saw three mountain sheep on the bench above, and, motioning to the boys, I ran on shore and, with my gun in hand, crept down toward them, keeping a small pine tree between myself and the sheep.  There were some cedar bushes on the point, and the pines grew about half way up the bank.  I got in as good a range as possible and fired at one of them which staggered around and fell down to the bottom of the cliff.  I loaded and took the next larg est one which came down the same way.  The third one tried to escape by going down the bend and then creeping up a crevice, but it could not get away and turned back, cautiously, which gave me time to load again and put a ball through it.  I hit it a little too far back for instant death, but I followed it up and found it down and helpless, and soon secured it.  I hauled this one down the mountain, and the other boys had the two others seeure by this time.  McMahon was so elated at my success that he said:  "Manley, if I could shoot as you do I would never want any better business."  And the other fellows said they guessed we were having better luck with one gun than with six, so we had a merry time after all.  These animals were of a bluish color, with hair much finer than deer, and resembled a goat more than a sheep.  These <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We kept pushing on down the river.  The rapids were still dangerous in many places, but not so frequent nor so bad as the part we had gone over, and we could see that the river gradually grew smoother as we progressed.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After a day or two we began to get out of the can&tilde;ons, but the mountains and hills on each side were barren and of a pale yellow caste, with no chance for us to climb up and take a look to see if there were any chances for us further along.  We had now been obliged to follow the can&tilde;on for many miles, for the only way to get out was to get out endwise, climbing the banks being utterly out of the question.  But these mountains soon came to an end, and there was some cottonwood and willows on the bank of the river, which was now so smooth we could ride along without the continual loading and unloading we had been forced to practice for so long.  We had begun to get a little desperate at the lack of game, but the new valley, which grew wider all the time, gave us hope again, if it was quite barren everywhere except back of the willow trees.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were floating along very silently one day, for none of us felt very much in the mood for talking, when we heard a distant sound which we thought was very much like the firing of a gun.  We kept still, and in a short time a similar sound was heard, plainer and evidently some ways down the stream.  Again and again we heard it, and decided that it must be a gun shot, and yet we were puzzled to know how it could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Finally we concluded we did not come out into that wild country to be afraid of a few gunshots, and determined to put on a bold front, fight if we had to, run away if we could not do any better, and take our chances on getting scalped or roasted.  Just then we came in sight of three Indian lodges just a little back from the river, and now we knew for certain who had the guns.  McMahon and I were in the lead as usual, and it was only a moment before one of the Indians appeared, gun in hand, and made motions for us to come on shore.  A cottonwood tree lay nearly across the river, and I had gone so far that I had to go around it and land below, but the other boys behind were afraid to do otherwise than to land right there as the Indian kept his gun lying across his arm.  I ran our canoe below to a patch of willows, where we landed and crawled through the brush till we came in sight of the other boys, where we stood and waited a moment to see how they fared, and whether our red men were friends or enemies.  There were no suspicious movements on their part, so we came out and walked right up to them.  There was some little talk, but I am sure we did not understand one another's language, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I was quite familiar with the sign language used by all the Indians, and found I could get along pretty well in making him understand and knowing what he said.  I asked him first how many "sleeps" or days it was from there to "Mormonee."  In answer he put out his left hand and then put two fingers of his right astride of it, making both go up and down with the same motion of a man riding a horse.  Then he shut his eyes and laid his head on his hand three times, by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When I told Chief Walker this he seemed very much astonished, as if wondering why we were going down the river when we wanted to get west across the country.  I asked him how many sleeps it was to the big water, and he shook his head, pointed out across the country and then to the river and shook his head again; by which I understood that water was scarce, out the way he pointed.  He then led me down to a smooth sand bar on the river and then, with a crooked stick, began to make a map in the sand.  First he made a long crooked mark, ten feet long or so, and pointing to the river to let me know that the mark in the sand was made to represent it.  He then made a straight mark across near the north end of the stream, and showed the other streams which came into the Green river which I saw at once was exactly correct.  Then he laid some small stones on each side of the cross mark, and making a small hoop of a willow twig, he rolled it in the mark he had made across the river, then flourished his stick as if he were driving oxen.  Thus he represented the emigrant road.  He traced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I became much interested in my new found friend, and had him continue his map down the river-  He showed two streams coming in on the east side and then he began piling up stones on each side of the river and then got longer ones and piled them higher and higher yet.  Then he stood with one foot on each side of his river and put his hands on the stones and then raised them as high as he could, making a continued e-e-e-e-e-e as long as his breath would last, pointed to the canoe and made signs with his hands how it would roll and pitch in the rapids and finely capsize and throw us all out.  He then made signs of death to show us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I nowhad a description of the country ahead and believed it to be reliable.  As soon as I could conviently after this, I had a council with the boys, who had looked on in silence while I was holding the silent confab with the chief.  I told them where we were and what chances there were of getting to California by this route, and that for my part I had as soon be killed by Mormans as by savage Indians, and that I believed the best way for us to do was to make the best of our way to Salt Lake.  "Now" I said, "Those of you who agree with me can follow -- and I hope all will."</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mc.Mahon said that we could not understand a word the old Indian said, and as to following his trails, I don't believe a word of it, and it don't seem right.</P>
107.sgm:<P>He said he had a map of the country, and it looked just as safe to him to go on down the river as to go wandering across a dry and desolate country which we knew nothing of.  I said to Mc.Mahon--"I know this sign language pretty well.  It is used by almost all the Indians and is just as plain and certain to me as my talk is to you.  Chief Walker and his forefathers were borne here and know the country as well as you know your father's farm, and for my part, I think I shall take one of his trails and go to Salt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I then went to Chief Walker and had him point out the trail to "Mormonie" as well as he could.  He told me where to enter the mountains leading north, and when we got part way he told me we would come to an Indian camp, when I must follow some horse tracks newly made; he made me know this by using his hands like horse's forefeet, and pointed the way.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some of the young men motioned for me to come out and shoot at a mark with them, and as I saw it would please them I did so and took good care to beat them every time too.  Then they wanted to swap (narawaup) guns with me which I declined doing.  After this the Chief came to me and wanted me to go and hunt buffalo with them.  I told him I had no horse, and then he went and had a nice gray one brought up and told me I could ride him if I would go.  He took his bow and arrow and showed me how he could shoot an arrow straight through a buffalo just back of his short ribs and that the arrow would go clear through and come out on the other side without touching a bone.  Those fellows were in fine spirit, on a big hunt, and when Walker pointed out his route to me he swung his hand around to Salt Lake.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They all spoke the word buffalo quite plainly.  I took his strong bow and found I could hardly pull it half way out, but I have no doubt he could do as he said he could.  I hardly knew how to refuse going with him.  I asked him how long it would be before he would get around his long circuit and get to Salt Lake, to which he replied by pulverizing some leaves in his hands and scattering them in the air to represent snow, which would fall by the time he got to "Mormonee".  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I told him I could not go with him for the other boys would depend on me to get them something to eat, and I put my finger into my open mouth to tell him this.  I think if I had been alone I should have accepted his offer and should have had a good time.  I gave them to understand that we would swap (narawaup) with them for some horses so he brought up a pair of nice two year-old colts for us.  I offered him some money for them, he did not want that, but would take clothing of almost any kind.  We let them have some that we could get along without, and some one let Walker have a coat.  He put it on, and being more warmly dressed than ever before, the sweat ran down his face in streams.  We let them have some needles and thread and some odd notions we had to spare.  We saw that Walker had some three or four head of cattle with him which he could kill if they did not secure game at the time they expected.</P>
107.sgm:<P>McMahon and Field still persisted they would not go with us and so we divided our little stock of flour and dried meat with them as fairly as possible and decided we would try the trail.  When our plans were settled we felt in pretty good spirits again, and one of the boys got up a sort of corn-stalk fiddle which made a squeaking noise and in a little while there was a sort of mixed American and Indian dance going on in which the sqaws joined in and we had a pretty jolly time till quite late at night.  We were well pleased that these wild folks had proved themselves to be true friends to us.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The morning we were to start I told the boys a dream I had in which I had seen that the course we had decided on was the correct one, but Mc. Mahon and Field thought we were foolish and said they had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Said He:--"This Indian may be all right, and maybe he will lead us all into a dreadful trap.  They are treacherous and revengeful, and for some merely fancied wrong done by us, or by some one else of whom we have no control or knowledge, they may take our scalps, wipe us out of existence and no one will ever know what became of us.  Now this map of mine don't show any bad places on this river, and I believe we can get down easily enough, and get to California some time.  Field and I cannot make up our minds so easily as you fellows.  I believe your chances are very poor.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The boys now had our few things loaded on the two colts, for they had fully decided to go with me, and I was not in the least put back by McMahon's dire forbodings.  We shook hands with quivering lips as we each hoped the other would meet good luck, and find enough to eat and all such sort of friendly talk, and then with my little party on the one side and McMahon and Field, whom we were to leave behind, on the other, we bowed to each other with bared heads, and then we started out of the little young cottonwoods into the broad plain that seemed to get wider and wider as we went west.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The mountains on the northern side grew smaller and less steep as we went west, and on the other hand reached down the river as far as we could see.  The plain itself was black and barren and for a hundred miles at least ahead of us it seemed to have no end.  Walker had explained to us that we must follow some horse tracks and enter a can&tilde;on some miles to the northwest.  He had made his hands work like horses' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We now resumed our jonrney, keeping watch of the tracks more closely, and as we came near the spurs of the mountain which projected out into the barren valley we crossed several well marked trails running along the foot hiils, at right angles to our own.  This we afterwards learned was the regular trail from Santa Fe&acute; to Los Angeles.  At some big rocks further on we camped for the night, and found water in some pools or holes in the flat rocks which held the rain.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Reading people of to-day, who know so well the geography of the American continent, may need to stop and think that in 1849 the whole region west of the Missouri River was very little known, the only men venturesome enough to dare to travel over it were hunters and trappers who, by a wild life had been used to all the privations of such a journey, and shrewd as the Indians themselves in the mysterious ways of the trail and the chase.  Even these fellows <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The Indians here have the reputation of being blood thirsty savages who took delight in murder aud torture, but here, in the very midst of this wild and desolate country we found a Chief and his tribe, Walker and his followers who were as humane and kind to white people as conld be expected of any one.  I have often wondered at the knowledge of this man respecting the country, of which he was able to make us a good map in the sand, point out to us the impassable can&tilde;on, locate the hostile indians, and many points which were not accurately known by our own explorers for many years afterward.  He undoubtedly saved our little band from a watery grave, for without his advice we had gone on and on, far into the great Colorado can&tilde;on, from which escape would have been impossible and securing food another impossibility, while destruction by hostile indians was among the strong probabilities of the case.  So in a threefold way I have for these more than forty years credited the lives of myself and comrades to the thoughtful interest and humane consideration of old Chief Walker.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In another pool or pond near the one where we were camped I shot a small duck.  Big sage was plenty here for fuel and we had duck for supper.  Our party consisted of five men and two small ponies only two years old, with a stock of provisions very small including that the old chief had given us.  We started on in the morning, following our faint trail till we came to the can&tilde;on we had in view, and up this we turned as we had been directed, finding in the bottom a little running stream.  Timber began to appear as we ascended, and grass also.  There were signs of deer and grouse but we had no time to stop to hunt, for I had the only gun and while I hunted the others must lie <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>After being on this trail six or seven days we began to think of killing one of our colts for food, for we had put ourselves on two meals a day and the work was very hard; so that hunger was all the time increasing.  We thought this was a pretty long road for Walker to ride over in three sleeps as he said he could, and we began also to think there might be some mistake somewhere, although it had otherwise turned out just as he said.  On the eighth day our horse-tracks came out into a large trail which was on a down grade leading in a northward direction.  On the ninth day we came into a large valley, and near night came in sight of a few covered wagons, a part of a train that intended going on a little later over the southern route to Los Angeles but were waiting for the weather to get a little cooler, for a large part of the route was over almost barren deserts.  We were very glad to find these wagons, for they seemed to have plenty of food and the bountiful supper they treated us to was the very thing we needed.  We camped here and told them of the hardships we had passed through.  They had hired a guide, each wagon paying him ten dollars for his service.  Our little party talked over the situation among ourselves, and concluded that as we were good walkers we must allow ourselves to be used in any way so that we had grub and concluded as many of us as possible would try to get some service to do for our board and walk along with the party.  John Rogers had a dollar and a half and I had thirty dollars, which was all the money we had in our camp.  We found out we were about 60 miles south of Salt Lake City.  Some of the boys next day arranged to work for their board, and the others would be taken along if they would furnish themselves with flour and bacon.  This part of the proposition fell to me and two others, and so Hazelrig and I took the two colts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:and started for the city, where they told us we could get all we needed with our little purse of money.  We reached Hobble Creek before night, near Salt Lake where there was a Mormon fort, and were also a number of wagons belonging to some prospecting train.  There seemed to be no men about and we were looking about among the wagons for some one to inquire of, when a woman came to the front of the last wagon and looked out at us, and to my surprise it was Mrs. Bennett, wife of the man I had been trying to overtake ever since my start on this long trip Bennett had my entire outn&tilde;t with him on this trip and was all the time wondering whether I would ever catch up with them.  We stayed till the men came in with their cattle towards night, and Bennett was glad enough to see me, I assure you.  We had a good substantial supper and then sat around the campfire nearly all night telling of our experience since leaving Wisconsin.  I had missed Bennett at the Missouri River.  I knew of no place where people crossed the river except Council Bluff, here I had searched faithfully, finding no trace of him, but it seems they had crossed farther up at a place called Kanesville, a Mormon crossing, and followed up the Platte river on the north side.  Their only bad luck had been to loose a fine black horse, which was staked out, and when a herd of buffaloes came along he broke his rope and followed after them.  He was looked for with other horses, but never found and doubtless became a prize for some enterprizing Mr. Lo. who was fortunate enough to capture him.  Hazelrig and I told of our experiance on the south side of the Platte; why we went down Green River; what a rough time we had; how we were stopped by the Indians and how we had come across from the river, arriving the day before and were now on our way to Salt Lake to get some flour and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Mr. Bennett would not hear of my going on to Salt Lake City, for he said there must be provisions enough in the party and in the morning we were able to buy flour and bacon of John Philips of Mineral Point Wis. and of Wm. Philips his brother.  I think we got a hundred pounds of flour and a quantity of bacon and some other things.  I had some money which I had received for my horse sold to Dallas, but as the others had none I paid for it all, and told Hazelrig to take the ponies and go back to camp with a share of the provisions and do the best he could.  I had now my own gun and ammunition, with some clothing and other items which I had prepared in Wisconsin before I started after my Winnebago pony, and I felt I ought to share the money I had with the other boys to help them as best I could.  I felt that I was pretty well fixed and had nothing to fear.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mr. Bennett told me much of the trip on the north side of the Platte.  He said they had some cholera, of which a few people died, and related how the outer if not the inner nature of the men changed as they left civilization, law and the courts behind them.  Some who had been raised together, and lived together all their lives without discord or trouble, who were considered model men at home and just the right people to be connected with in such an expedition, seemed to change their character entirely out on these wild wastes.  When anything excited their displeasure their blood boiled over, and only the interference of older and wiser heads on many occasions prevented bloodshed.  Some dissolved the solemn contract they had made to travel together systematically and in order and to stand, by, even unto death, and when they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>After Bennett had told his stories, and I had related more of our own close escapes I began to ask him why he went this way which seemed to be very circuitous and much longer than the way they had first intended to go.  He said that it was too late in the season to go the straight-road safely, for there was yet 700 miles of bad country to cross and do the best they could it would be at the commencement of the rainy season before the Sierra Nevada mountains could be reached <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>After days of argument and camp-fire talks, this Southern route was agreed upon, and Capt. Hunt was chosen as guide.  Capt. Hunt was a Mormon, and had more than one wife, but he had convinced them that he knew something about the road.  Each agreed to give him ten dollars to pilot the train to San Bernardino where the Mormon Church had bought a Spanish grant of land, and no doubt they thought a wagon road to that place would benefit them greatly, and probably gave much encouragement for the parties to travel this way.  It was undoubtedly safer than the northern mountain route at this season of the year.  It seemed at least to be a new venture for west-bound emigrant trains, at least as to ultimate success, for we had no knowledge of any that had gone through safely.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some western people remembered the history of the Mormons in Illinois and Missouri, and their doings there, feared somewhat for their own safety now that they were so completely under their power, for they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>These Mormons at Salt Lake were situated as if on an island in the sea, and no enemy could reach any adjoining state or territory if Brigham Young's band of destroying angels were only warned to look after them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At a late hour that night we lay down to sleep, and morning came clear and bright.  After breakfast Mr. Bennett said to me:--"Now Lewis I want you to go with me; I have two wagons and two drivers and four yoke of good oxen and plenty of provisions.  I have your outfit yet, your gun and ammunition and your two good hickory shirts which are just in time for your present needs.  You need not do any work.  You just look around and kill what game you can for us, and this will help as much as anything, you can do."  I was, of course glad to accept this offer, and thanks to Mr. Bennett's kind care of my outfit, was better fixed then any of the other boys.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We inquired around among the other wagons as to their supply of flour and bacon; and succeeded to getting flour from Mr. Philips and bacon from some of the others, as much as we supposed the other boys would need, which I paid for, and when this was loaded on the two colt,s Hazelrig started back alone to the boys in camp.  As I was so well provided for I gave him all my money for they might need some, and I did not:</P>
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107.sgm:<P>The wagons which composed the intended train were very much scattered about, having moved out from Salt Lake at pleasure, and it was said to be too early to make the start on the southern route, for the weather on the hot, barren desert was said to grow cooler a little later in the season, and it was only at this cool season that the south west part of the desert could be crossed in safety.  The scattering members of the train began to congregate, and Capt. Hunt said it was necessary to have some sort of system about the move, and that before they moved they must organize and adopt rules and laws which must be obeyed.  He said they must move like an army, and that he was to be a dictator in all things except that in case of necessity a majority of the train could rule otherwise.  It was thought best to get together and try a march out one day, then go in camp and organize.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This they did, and at the camp there was gathered one hundred and seven wagons, a big drove of horses and cattle, perhaps five hundred in all.  The train was divided into seven divisions and each division was to elect its own captain.  Division No. 1 should lead the march the first day, and their men should take charge of the stock and deliver them to the wagons in the morning, and then No. 1 should take the rear, with No. 2 in the lead to break the road.  The rear division would not turn a wheel before 10 o'clock the next day, and it would be about that time at night before they were in camp and unyoked.  The numbers of animals cleaned out the feed for a mile or two each side of the camp and a general meeting was called for the organization of the whole.  Mr. L. Granger got up so he could look over the audience and proceeded to explain the plan and to read a preamble and resolutions which had been prepared as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>We moved off in good style from this camp.  After a day or two and before we reached what is called Little Salt Lake, an attempt was made to make a short cut, to save distance.  The train only went on this cut off a day or two when Capt. Hunt came back from the front and said they had better turn back to the old trail again, which all did.  This was a bad move, the train much broken and not easy to get them into regular working order again.  We were now approaching what they called the Rim of the Basin.  Within the basin the water all ran to the north or toward Great Salt Lake, but when we crossed the rim, all was toward the Colorado River, through which it reached the Pacific Ocean.  About this time we were overtaken by another train commanded by Capt. Smith.  They had a map with them made by one Williams of Salt Lake a mountaineer who was represented to know all the routes through all the mountains of Utah, and this map showed a way to turn off from the southern route not far from the divide which separated the waters of the basin from those which flowed toward the Colorado, and pass over the mountains, coming out in what they called Tulare valley, much nearer than by Los Angeles.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This map was quite frequently exhibited and the matter freely discussed in camp, indeed speeches were made in the interest of the cut-off route which was to be so much shorter.  A clergyman, the Rev. J. W. Brier, was very enthusiastic about this matter and discaused learnedly and plausibly about it.  The more the matter was talked about the more there were who were converted to the belief that the short road <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>A great many were anxious to get the opinion of Capt. Hunt on the feasibility of the new route for he was a mountain man and could probably give us some good advice.  He finally consented to talk of it, and said he really knew no more then the others about this particular route, but he very much doubted if a white man ever went over it, and that he did not consider it at all safe for those who had wives and children in their company to take the unknown road.  Young men who had no family could possibly get through, and save time even if the road was not as good as Los Angeles road.  But said he "If you decide to follow Smith I will go will go with you, even if the road leads to Hell."</P>
107.sgm:<P>On the route from near Salt Lake to this point we found the country to grow more barren as we progressed.  The grass was thinner, and sage brush took the place of timber.  Our road took us in sight of Sevier Lake, and also, while going through the low hills, passed Little Salt Lake, which was almost dry, with a beach around it almost as white as snow.  It might have had a little more the dignity of a lake in wet weather, but it was a rather dry affair as we saw it.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At one point on this route we came into a long narrow valley, well covered with sage brush, and before we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It was on this trip that one of Mr. Bennett's ox drivers was taken with a serious bowel difficulty, and for many days we thought he would die, but he eventually recovered.  His name was Silas Helmer.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It was really a serious moment when the front of the train reached the Smith trail.  Team after team turned to the right while now and then one would keep straight ahead as was at first intended.  Capt. Hunt came over to the larger party after the division was made, and wished them all a hearty farewell and a pleasant happy journey.  My friend Bennett whose fortune I shared was among the seceders who followed the Smith party.  This point, when our paths diverged was very near the place afterward made notorious as Mountain Meadows, where the famous massacre took place under the direction of the Mormon generals.  Our route from here up to the mountain was a very pleasant one, steadily up grade, over rolling hills, with wood, water and grass in plenty.  We came at last to what seemed the summit of a great mountain, about three days journey on the new trail.  Juniper trees grew about in bunches, and my experience with this timber taught me that we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Immediately in front of us was a can&tilde;on, impassible for wagons, and down into this the trail descended.  Men could go, horses and mules, perhaps, but wagons could no longer follow that trail, and we proposed to camp while explorers were sent out to search a pass across this steep and rocky can&tilde;on.  Wood and bunch grass were plenty, but water was a long way down the trail and had to be packed up to the camp.  Two days passed, and the parties sent out began to come in, all reporting no way to go farther with the wagons.  Some said the trail on the west side of the can&tilde;on could be ascended on foot by both men and mules, but that it would take years to make it fit for wheels.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The enthusiam about the Smith cut-off had begun to die and now the talk began of going back to follow Hunt.  On the third morning a lone traveler with a small wagon and one yoke of oxen, died.  He seemed to be on this journey to seek to regain his health.  He was from Kentucky, but I have forgotten his name.  Some were very active about his wagon and, some thought too much attention was paid to a stranger.  He was decently buried by the men of the company.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This very morning a Mr. Rynierson called the attention of the crowd and made some remarks upon the situation.  He said: "My family is near and dear to me.  I can see by the growth of the timber that we are in a very elevated place.  This is now the seventh of November, it being the fourth at the time of our turning off on this trail.  We are evidently in a country where snow is liable to fall at any time in the winter season, and if we were to remain here and be caught in a severe storm we should all probably perish.  I, for one, feel in duty bound to seek a safer way than this.  I shall hitch up my oxen and return at once to the old trail.  Boys (to his teamsters) get <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Mr. Bennett had gone only a short distance out when he had the misfortune to break the axle of his wagon and he then went back to camp and took an axle out of the dead man's wagon and by night had it fitted into his own.  He had to stay until morning, and there were still a few others who were late in getting a start, who camped there also.  Among these were J. B. Arcane, wife and child; two Earhart brothers and sons and some two or three other wagons.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When all was ready we followed the others who had gone ahead.  The route led at first directly to the north and a p asswas said to be in that direction.  Of the Green River party only Rodgers and myself remained with this train.  After the wagons straightened out nicely, a meeting was called to organize, so as to travel systematically.  A feeling was very manifest that those without any families did not care to bind themselves to stand by and assist those who had wives and children in their party and there was considerable debate, which resulted in all the family wagons being left out of the arrangements.</P>
107.sgm:<P>A party who called themselves "The Jayhawkers" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>At the organization Jim Martin was chosen captain.  Those who were rejected were Rev. J. W. Brier and, his family, J. B. Arcane and family, and Mr. A. Bennett and family, Mr. Brier would not stay put out, but forced himself in, and said he was going with the rest, and so he did.  But the other families remained behind.  I attended the meeting and heard what was said, but Mr. Bennett was my friend and had been faithful to me and my property when he knew not where I was, and so I decided to stand by him and his wife at all hazards.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As I had no team to drive I took every opportunity to climb the mountains along the route, reaching the highest elevations even if they were several miles from the trail.  I sometimes remained out all night.  I took Mr. Arcane's field glass with me and was thus able to see all there was of the country.  I soon became satisfied that going north was not taking us in the direction we ought to go.  I frequently told them so, but they still persisted in following on.  I went to the leaders and told them we were going back toward Salt Lake again, not making any headway toward California.  They insisted they were following the directions of Williams, the mountaineer; and they had not yet got as far north as he indicated.  I told them, and Mr. Bennett and others, that we must either turn west, or retrace our steps and get back into the regular Los Angeles road again.  In the morning we held another consultation and decided to turn west here, and leave the track we had been following.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Off we turned at nearly right angles to our former <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>One day I climbed a high mountain where some pine grew, in order to get a view of the country.  As I neared its base I came to a flat rock, perhaps fifty feet square.  I heard some pounding noise as I came near, but what ever it was, it ceased on my approach.  There were many signs of the rock being used as a camp, such as pine burrs, bones of various kinds of animals, and other remains of food which lay every where about and on the rock.  Near the center was a small oblong stone n&tilde;tted into a hole.  I took it out and found it covered a fine well of water about three feet deep and was thus protected against any small animal being drowned in it.  I went on up the mountain and from the top I saw that the land west of us looked more and more barren.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The second night the brave Jayhawkers who had been so firm in going north hove in sight in our rear.  They had at last concluded to accept my advice and had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We drove to the west side of this basin and camped near the foot of a low mountain.  The cattle were driven down into the basin where there was some grass, but at camp we had only the water in our kegs.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some of the boys climbed the mountain on the north but found no springs: Coming down a can&tilde;on they found some rain water in a basin in the rocks and all took a good drink.  Lew West lay down and swallowed all he could and then told the boys to kill him for he never would feel so good again.  They finished the pool, it was so small, before they left it.  In going on down the can&tilde;on they saw an Indian dodge behind some big rocks, and searching, they found him in a cave as still as a dead man.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>All kinds of game was now very scarce, and so seldon seen that the men got tired of carrying their guns, and grew fearless of enemies.  A heavy rifle was indeed burdensome over so long a road when there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I took Arcane's field glass and took pains to ascend all the high buttes within a day's walk of the road, and this enabled me to get a good survey of the country north and west.  I would sometimesbe gone two or three days with no luggage but my canteen and gun.  I was very cautious in regard to Indians, and tried to keep on the safe side of surprises.  I would build a fire about dark and then travel on till I came to a small washed place and lie down and stay till morning, so if Mr. Indian did come to my fire he would not find any one to kill.  One day I was going up a wide ravine leading to the summit, and before I reached the highest part I saw a smoke curl up before me.  I took a side ravine and went cautiously, bowed down pretty low so no one could see me, and when near the top of the ridge and about one hundred yards of the fire I ventured to raise slowly up and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I now went to the top of a high butte and scanned the country very carefully, especially to the west and north, and found it very barren.  There were no trees, no fertile valleys nor anything green.  Away to the west some mountains stood out clear and plain, their summits covered white with snow.  This I decided was our objective point: Very little snow could be seen elsewhere, and between me and the snowy mountains lay a low, black rocky range, and a wide level plain, that had no signs of water, as I had learned them in our trip thus far across the country.  The black range seemed to run nearly north and south, and to the north and northwest the country looked volcanic, black and desolate.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As I looked and thought, I believed that we were much farther from a fertile region then most of our party had any idea of.  Such of them as had read Fremont's travels, and most of them going to California had fortified themselves before starting by reading Fremont; said that the mountains were near California and were fertile from their very summits down to the sea, but that to the east of the mountains it was a desert region for hundred of miles.  As I explained it to them, and so they soon saw for themselves, they believed that the snowy range ahead of us was the last range to cross before we entered the long-sought California, and it seemed not far off, and prospect quite encouraging.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our road had been winding around among the buttes which looked like the Indian baskets turned upside down on the great barren plain.  What water we found was in small pools in the wash-out places near the foothills at the edge of the valley, probably running down the ravines after some storm.  There were dry lake beds scattered around over the plain, but it did not seem as if there had ever been volume <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Our oxen began to look bad, for they had poor food.  Grass had been very scarce, and now when we unyoked them and turned them out they did not care to look around much for something to eat.  They moved slowly and cropped disdainfully the dry scattering shrubs and bunches of grass from six inches to a foot high.  Spending many nights and days on such dry food and without water they suffered fearfully, and though fat and sleek when we started from Salt Lake, they now looked gaunt and poor, and dragged themselves slowly along, poor faithful servants of mankind.  No one knew how long before we might have to kill some of them to get food to save our own lives.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now traveled several days down the bed of a broad ravine, which led to a southwest direction.  There seemed to be a continuous range of mountains on the south, but to the north was the level plain with scattered buttes, and what we had all along called dry lakes, for up to this time we had seen no water in any of them.  I had carried my rifle with me every day since we took this route, and though I was an experienced hunter, a professional one if there be such a thing, I had killed only one rabbit, and where no game lived I got as hungry as other folks.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our line soon brought us in sight of a high butte <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:which stood apparently about 20 miles south of our route, and I determined to visit and climb it to get a better view of things ahead.  I walked steadily all day and reached the summit about dusk.  I wandered around among the big rocks, and found a projecting cliff where I would be protected from enemies, wind or storm, and here I made my camp.  While the light lasted I gathered a small stock of fuel, which consisted of a stunted growth of sage and other small shrubs, dry but not dead, and with this I built a little fire Indian fashion and sat down close to it.  Here was a good chance for undisturbed meditation and someway I could not get around doing a little meditating as I added a new bit of fuel now and then to the small fire burning at my side.  I thought it looked dark and troublesome before us.  I took a stone for a pillow with my hat on it for a cushion, and lying down close under the shelving rock I went to sleep, for I was very tired, I woke soon from being cold, for the butte was pretty high, and so I busied myself the remainder of the night in adding little sticks to the fire, which gave me some warmth, and thus in solitude I spent the night.  I was glad enough to see the day break over the eastern mountains, and light up the vast barren country I could see on every hand around me.  When the sun was fairly up I took a good survey of the situation, and it seemed as if pretty near all creation was in sight.  North and west was a level plain, fully one hundred miles wide it seemed, and from anything I could see it would not afford a traveler a single drink in the whole distance or give a poor ox many mouthfuls of grass.  On the western edge it was bounded by a low, black and rocky range extending nearly north and south for a long distance and no pass though it which I could see, and beyond this range still another one apparently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I had learned by experience that objects a day's walk distant seemed close by in such a light, and that when clear lakes appeared only a little distance in our front, we might search and search and never find them.  We had to learn how to look for water in this peculiar way.  In my Wisconsin travel I had learned that when I struck a ravine I must go down to look for living water, but here we must invariably travel upward for the water was only found in the high mountains.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Prospects now seemed to me so hopeless, that I heartily wished I was not in duty bound to stand by the women and small children who could never reach a land of bread without assistance.  If I was in the position that some of them were who had only themselves to look after, I could pick up my knapsack and gun and go off, feeling I had no dependent ones to leave behind.  But as it was I felt I should be morally guilty of murder if I should forsake Mr. Bennett's wife and children, and the family of Mr. Arcane with whom I had been thus far associated.  It was a dark line of thought but I always felt better when I got around to the determination, as I always did, to stand by my friends, their wives and children let come what might.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I could see with my glass the train of wagons moving slowly over the plain toward what looked to me like a large lake.  I made a guess of the point they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The ambitious mountain-climbers of our party had by this, time, abandoned that sort of work, and I was left alone to look about and try to ascertain the character of the road they were to follow.  It was a great deal to do to look out for food for the oxen and for water for the camp, and besides all this it was plain there were Indians about even if we did not see them.  There were many signs, and I had to be always on the lookout to outgeneral them.  When the people found I was in camp this night they came around to our wagons to know what I had seen and found, and what the prospects were ahead.  Above all they wanted to know how far it was, in my opinion to the end of our journey.  I listened to all their inquiries and told them plainly what I had seen, and what I thought of the prospect.  I did not like telling the whole truth about it for fear it might dampen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>In the morning Jayhawkers, and others of the train that were not considered strictly of our own party, yoked up and started due west across the level plain which I had predicted as having no water, and I really thought they would never live to get across to the western border.  Mr. Culverwell and Mr. Fish stayed with us, making another wagon in our train.  We talked about the matter carefully, I did not think it possible to get across that plain in less than four or six days, and I did not believe there was a drop of water on the route.  To the south of us was a mountain that now had considerable snow upon its summit, and some small pine trees also.  Doubtless we could find plenty of water at the base, but being due south, it was quite off our course.  The prospects for reaching water were so much better in that way that we finally decided to go there rather than follow the Jayhawkers on their desolate tramp over the dry plain.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>So we turned up a can&tilde;on leading toward the mountain and had a pretty heavy up grade and a rough bed for a road.  Part way up we came to a high cliff and in its face were niches or cavites as large as a barrel or larger, and in some of them we found balls of a glistening substance looking something like pieces of varigated candy stuck together.  The balls were as large as small pumpkins.  It was evidently food of some sort, and we found it sweet but sickish, and those who were so hungry as to break up one of the balls and divide it among the others, making a good meal of it, were a little troubled with nausea afterwards.  I considered it bad policy to rob the Indians of any of their food, for they must be pretty smart people to live in this desolate country and find enough to keep them alive, and I was pretty sure we might count them as hostiles as they never came near our camp.  Like other Indians they were probably revengeful, and might seek to have revenge on us for the injury.  We considered it prudent to keep careful watch for them, so they might not surprise us with a volley of arrows.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The second night we camped near the head of the can&tilde;on we had been following, but thus far there had been no water, and only some stunted sage brush for the oxen, which they did not like, and only ate it when near the point of starvation.  They stood around the camp looking as sorry as oxen can.  During the night a stray and crazy looking cloud passed over us and left its moisture on the mountain to the shape of a coat of snow several inches deep.  When daylight came the oxen crowded around the wagons, shivering with cold, and licking up the snow to quench their thirst.  We took pattern after them and melted snow to get water for ourselves.</P>
107.sgm:<P>By the looks of our cattle it did not seem as if they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Rogers and I went ahead with our guns to look out the way and find a good camping place.  After a few miles we got out of the snow and out upon an incline, and in the bright clear morning air the foot of the snowy part of the mountain seemed near by and were sure we could reach it before night.  From here no guide was needed and Rogers and I, with our guns and canteens hurried on as fast as possible, when a camp was found we were to raise a signal smoke to tell them where it was.  We were here, as before badly deceived as to the distance, and we marched steadily and swiftly till nearly night before we reached the foot of the mountain.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Here was a flat place in a table land and on it a low brush hut, with a small smoke near by, which we could plainly see as we were in the shade of the mountain, and that place lighted up by the nearly setting sun.  We looked carefully and satisfied ourselves there was but one hut, and consequently but few people could be expected.  We approached carefully and cautiously, making a circuit around so as to get between the hut and the hill in case that the occupants should retreat in that direction.  It was a long time before we could see any entrance to this wickiup, but we found it at last and approached directly in front, very cautiously indeed: We could see no one, and thought perhaps they were in ambush for us, but hardly probable, as we had kept closely out of sight.  We consulted a moment and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We tried to talk with the fellow in the sign language but he could understand about as much as an oyster.  I made a little basin in the ground and filled it with water from our canteens to represent a lake, then pointed in an inquiring way west and north, made signs of ducks and geese flying and squawking, but I did no seem to be able to get an idea into his head of what we wanted.  I got thoroughly provoked at him and may have shown some signs of anger.  During all this time a child or two in the hut squalled terribly, fearing I suppose they would all be murdered.  We might have lost our scalps under some circumstances, but we appeared to be fully the strangest party, and had no fear, for the Indian had no weapon about him and we had both guns and knives'  The poor fellow was shivering with cold, and with signs of friendship we fired off one of the guns which waked him up a little and he pointed to the gun and said "Walker," probably meaning the same good Chief Walker who had so fortunately stopped us in our journey down Green River.  I understood from the Indian that he was not friendly to Walker, but to show that he was all right with us he went into the hut and brought out a handful of corn for us to eat.  By the aid of a warm spring near by they had raised some corn here, and the dry stalks were standing around.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>As we were about to leave I told him we would come back, next day and bring him some clothes if we could find any to spare, and then we shouldered our guns and went back toward the wagons, looking over our shoulders occasionally to see if we were followed.  We walked fast down the hill and reached the camp about dark to find it a most unhappy one indeed.  Mrs. Bennett and Mrs. Arcane were in heart-rending distress.  The four children were crying for water but there was not a drop to give them, and none could be reached before some time next day.  The mothers were nearly crazy, for they expected the children would choke with thirst and die in their arms, and would rather perish themselves than suffer the agony of seeing their little ones gasp and slowly die.  They reproached themselves as being the cause of all this trouble.  For the love of gold they had left homes where hunger had never come, and often in sleep dreamed of the bounteous tables of their old homes only to be woefully disappointed in the morning.  There was great gladness when John Rogers and I appeared in the camp and gave the mothers full canteens of water for themselves and little ones, and there was tears of joy and thankfulness upon their cheeks as they blessed us over and over again.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The oxen fared very hard.  The ground was made up of broken stone, and all that grew was a dry and stunted brush not more than six inches high, of which the poor animals took an occasional dainty bite, and seemed hardly able to drag along.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It was only seven or eight miles to the warm spring and all felt better to know for a certainty that we would soon be safe again.  We started early, even the women walked, so as to favor the poor oxen all we could.  When within two miles of the water some of the oxen lay down and refused to rise again, so we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The warm spring was quite large and ran a hundred yards or more before the water sank down into the dry and thirsty desert.  The dry cornstalks of last years crop, some small willows, sage brush, weeds and grass suited our animals very well, and they ate better than for a long time, and we thought it best to remain two or three days to give them a chance to get rest.  The Indian we left here the evening before had gone and left nothing behind but a chunk of crystalized rock salt.  He seemed to be afraid of his friends.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The range we had been traveling nearly paralell with seemed to come to an end here where this snow peak stood, and immediately north and south of this peak there seemed to be a lower pass.  The continous range north was too low to hold snow.  In the morning I concluded to go to the summit of that pass and with my glass have an extensive view.  Two other boys started with me, and as we moved along the snow line we saw tracks of our runaway Indian in the snow, passing over a low ridge.  As we went on up hill our boys began to fall behind, and long before night I could see nothing of them.  The ground was quite soft, and I saw many tracks of Indians which put me on my guard.  I reached the summit and as the shade of its mountain began to make it a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Next morning I reached the summit about nine o'clock, and had the grandest view I ever saw.  I could see north and south almost forever.  The surrounding region seemed lower, but much of it black, mountainous and barren.  On the west the snow peak shut out the view in that direction.  To the south the mountains seemed to descend for more than twenty miles, and near the base, perhaps ten miles away, were several smokes, apparently from camp fires, and as I could see no animals or camp wagons anywhere I presumed them to be Indians.  A few miles to the north and east of where I stood, and somewhat higher, was the roughest piece of ground I ever saw.  It stood in sharp peaks and was of many colors, some of them so red that the mountain looked red hot, I imagined it to be a true volcanic point, and had never been so near one before, and the most wonderful picture of grand desolation one could ever see.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Toward the north I could see the desert the Jayhawkers and their comrades had under taken to cross, and if their journey was as troublesome as ours and very much longer, they might by this time be all dead of thirst.  I remained on this summit an hour or so bringing my glass to bear on all points within my view, and scanning closely for everything that might help us or prove an obstacle to our progress.  The more I looked the more I satisfied myself that we were yet a long way from California and the serious question of our ever living to get there presented itself to me as I tramped along down the grade to camp.  I put <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I reached the camp on the third day where I found the boys who went part way with me and whom I had out-walked.  I related to the whole camp what I had seen, and when all was told it appeared that the route from the mountains westerly was the only route that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>During my absence an ox had been killed, for some were nearly out of provisions, and flesh was the only means to prevent starvation.  The meat was distributed amongst the entire camp, with the understanding that when it became necessary to kill another it should be divided in the same way.  Some one of the wagons would have to be left for lack of animals to draw it.  Our animals were so poor that one would not last long as food.  No fat could be found on the entire carcass, and the marrow of the great bones was a thick liquid, streaked with blood resembling corruption.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our road led us around the base of the mountain; There were many large rocks in our way, some as large as houses, but we wound around among them in a very crooked way and managed to get along.  The feet of the oxen became so sore that we made mocassins for them from the hide of the ox that was killed, and with this protection they got along very well.  Our trains now consisted of seven wagons.  Bennett had two; Arcane two; Earhart Bros. one.  Culverwell, Fish and others one; and there was one other, the owners of which I have forgotton.  The second night we had a fair camp with water and pretty fair <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>One night we had a fair camp, as we were close to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>There now appeared to be a pass away to the south as a sort of outlet to the great plain which lay to the north of us, but immediately west and across the desert waste, extending to the foot of a low black range of mountains, through which there seemed to be no pass, the distant snowy peak lay still farther on, with Martin's pass over it still a long way off though we had been steering toward it for a month.  Now as we were compelled to go west this impassable barrier was in our way and if no pass could be found in it we would be compelled to go south and make no progress in a westerly direction.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our trail was now descending to the bottom of what seemed to be the narrowest part of the plain, the same one the Jayhawkers had started across, further north, ten days before.  When we reached the lowest part of this valley we came to a running stream, and, as dead grass could be seen in the bed where the water ran very slowly, I concluded it only had water in it after hard rains in the mountains, perhaps a hundred miles, to the north.  This water was not pure; it had a bitter taste, and no doubt in dry weather was a rank poison.  Those who partook of it were affected about as if they had taken a big dose of salts.</P>
107.sgm:<P>A short distance above this we found the trail of the Jayhawkers going west, and thus we knew they had got safely across the great plain and then turned southward.  I hurried along their trail for several miles and looked the country over with field glass becoming fully satisfied we should find no water til we reached the summit, of the next range, and then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I turned back again on the Jayhawker's road, and followed it so rapidly that well toward night I was pretty near the summit, where a pass through this rocky range had been found and on this mountain not a tree a shrub or spear of grass could be found--desolation beyond conception.  I carried my gun along every day, but for the want of a chance to kill any game a single load would remain in my gun for a month.  Very seldom a rabbit could be seen, but not a bird of any kind, not even a hawk buzzard or crow made their appearance here.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When near the steep part of the mountain, I found a dead ox the Jayhawkers had left, as no camp could be made here for lack of water and grass, the meat could not be saved.  I found the body of the animal badly shrunken, but in condition, as far as putrefaction was concerned, as perfect as when alive.  A big gash had been cut in the ham clear to the bone and the sun had dried the flesh in this.  I was so awful hungry that I took my sheath knife and cut a big steak which I devoured as I walked along, without cooking or salt.  Some may say they would starve before eating such meat, but if they have ever experienced hunger till it begins to draw down the life itself, they will find the impulse of self preservation something not to be controlled by mere reason.  It is an instinct that takes possession of one in spite of himself.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I went down a narrow, dark can&tilde;on high on both sides and perpendicular, and quite so in many places.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>In the morning I started down the can&tilde;on which descended rapidly and had a bed of sharp, volcanic, broken rock.  I could sometimes see an Indian track, and kept a sharp lookout at every turn, for fear of revenge on account of the store of squashes which had been taken.  I felt I was in constant danger, but could do nothing else but go on and keep eyes open trusting to circumstances to get out of any sudden emergency that might arise.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As I recollect this was Christmas day and about dusk I came upon the camp of one man with his wife and family, the Rev. J. W. Brier, Mrs. Brier and two sons.  I inquired for others of his party and he told me they were somewhere ahead.  When I arrived at his camp I found the reverend gentleman very cooly delivering a lecture to his boys on education.  It seemed very strange to me to hear a solemn discourse on the benefits of early education when, it seemed to me, starvation was staring us all in the face, and the barren desolation all around gave small promise of the need of any education higher than the natural impulses of nature.  None of us knew exactly where we were, nor when the journey would be ended, nor when substantial relief would come.  Provisions were wasting away, and some had been reduced to the last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Here on the north side of the can&tilde;on were some rolling hills and some small weak springs, the water of which when gathered together made a small stream which ran a few yards down the can&tilde;on before it lost itself in the rocks and sand.  On the side there stood what seemed to be one half of a butte, with the perpendicular face toward the can&tilde;on.  Away on the summit of the butte I saw an Indian, so far away he looked no taller than my finger, and when he went out of sight I knew pretty well he was the very fellow who grew the squashes.  I thought it might be he, at any rate.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I now turned back to meet the teams and found them seven or eight miles up the can&tilde;on, and although it was a down grade the oxen were barely able to walk slowly with their loads which were light, as wagons were almost empty except the women and children.  When night came on it seemed to be cloudy and we could hear the cries of the wild geese passing east.  We regarded this as a very good sign and no doubt Owen's Lake, which we expected to pass on this route, was not very far off.  Around in those small hills and damp places was some coarse grass and other growths, but those who had gone before devoured the best, so our oxen had a hard time to get anything to eat.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Next morning I shouldered my gun and followed down the can&tilde;on keeping the wagon road, and when half a mile down, at the sink of the sickly stream, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I took a good long look at the wild creature and during all the time he never moved a muscle, though he must have known some one was in the well looking down at him.  He was probably practicing on one of the directions for a successful political career looking wise and saying nothing.  At any rate he was not going to let his talk get him into any trouble.  He probably had a friend around somewhere who supplied his wants.  I now left him and went farther out into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As I reached the lower part of the valley I walked over what seemed to be boulders of various sizes, and as I stepped from one to another the tops were covered with dirt and they grew larger as I went along.  I could see behind them and they looked clear like ice, but on closer inspection proved to be immense blocks of rock salt while the water which stood at their bases was the strongest brine.  After this discovery I took my way back to the road made by the Jayhawkers and found it quite level, but sandy.  Following this I came to a campfire soon after dark at which E. Doty and mess were camped.  As I was better acquainted I camped with them.  They said the water there was brackish and I soon found out the same thing for myself.  It was a poor camp; no grass, poor water and scattering, bitter sage brush for food for the cattle.  It would not do to wait long here, and so they hurried on.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I inquired of them about Martin's Pass, as they were now quite near it, and they said it was no pass at all, only the mountain was a little lower than the one holding the snow.  No wagon could get over it, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When these fellows started out they were full of spirit, and the frolic and fun along the Platte river was something worth laughing at but now they were very melancholy and talked in the lowest kind of low spirits.  One fellow said he knew this was the Creator's dumping place where he had left the worthless dregs after making a world, and the devil had scraped these together a little.  Another said this must be the very place where Lot's wife was turned into a pillar of salt, and the pillar been broken up and spread around the country.  He said if a man was to die he would never decay on account of the salt.  Thus the talk went on, and it seemed as if there were not bad words enough in the language to properly express their contempt and bad opinion of such a country as this.  They treated me to some of their meat, a little better than mine, and before daylight in the morning I was headed back on the trail to report the bad news I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>About noon I met two of our camp companions with packs on their backs following the wagon trail, and we stopped and had a short talk.  They were oldish men perhaps 50 years old, one a Mr. Fish of Indiana and another named Gould.  They said they could perhaps do as well on foot as to follow the slow ox teams, but when I told them what those ahead of them were doing, and how they must go, they did not seem to be entirely satisfied, as what they had on their backs would need to be replenished, and no such chance could be expected.  They had an idea that the end of the journey was not as far off as I predicted.  Mr. Fish had a long nicely made, whiplash wound around his waist, and when I asked him why he carried such a useless thing, which he could not eat, he said perhaps he could trade it off for something to eat.  After we had set on a sand hill and talked for awhile, we rose and shook each other by the hand, and bade each other good bye with quivering lips.  There was with me a sort of expression I could not repel that I should never see the middle aged men again.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As my road was now out and away from the mountains, and level, I had no fear of being surprised by enemies, so walked on with eyes downcast, thinking over the situation, and wondering what would be the final outcome.  If I were alone, with no one to expect me to help them, I would be out before any other man, but with women and children in the party, to go and leave them would be to pile everlasting infamy on my head.  The thought almost made me crazy but I thought it would be better to stay and die with them, bravely struggling to escape than to forsake them in their weakness.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It was almost night before I reached our camp, and sitting around our little fire I told, in the most easy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Now I said to the whole camp "You can see how you have displeased the red men, taking their little squashes, and when we get into a place that suits them for that purpose, they may meet us with a superior force and massacre us, not only for revenge but to get our oxen and clothing."  I told them we must ever be on guard against a surprise, as the chances were greatly against us.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We pulled the arrows out of the other oxen, and they seemed to sustain no great injury from the wounds.  This little faint steam where we camped has since been named as Furnace Creek and is still known as such.  It was named in 1862 by some prospectors who built what was called an air furnace on a small scale to reduce some ore found near by, which they supposed to contain silver, but I believe it turned out to be lead and too far from transportations to be available.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>Bennett and Arcane now concluded not to wait for me to go ahead and explore out a way for them to follow, as I had done for a long time, but to go ahead as it was evidently the best way to turn south and make our own road, and find the water and passes all for ourselves.  So they hitched up and rolled down the can&tilde;on, and out into the valley and then turned due south.  We had not gone long on this course before we saw that we must cross the valley and get over to the west side.  To do this we must cross through some water, and for fear the ground might be miry, I went to a sand hill near by and got a mesquite stick about three feet long with which to sound out our way.  I rolled up my pants pulled off my moccassins and waded in, having the teams stand still till I could find out whether it was safe for them to follow or not by ascertaining the depth of the water and the character of the bottom.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The water was very clear and the bottom seemed uneven, there being some deep holes.  Striking my stick on the bottom it seemed solid as a rock, and breaking off a small projecting point I found it to be solid rock salt.  As the teams rolled along they scarcely roiled the water.  It looked to me as if the whole valley which might be a hundred miles long might have been a solid bed of rock salt.  Before we reached this water there were many solid blocks of salt lying around covered with a little dirt on the top.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The second night we found a good spring of fresh water coming out from the bottom of the snow peak almost over our heads.  The small flow from it spread out over the sand and sank in a very short distance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This was a temporary relief, but brought us face to face with stranger difficulties and a more hopeless outlook.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There was no possible way to cross this high steep range of mountains anywhere to the north and the Jayhawkers had abandoned their wagons and burned them, and we could no longer follow on the trail they made.  It seemed that there was no other alternative but for us to keep along the edge of the mountain to the south and search for another pass.  Some who had read Fremont's travels said that the range immediately west of us must be the one he described, on the west side of which was a beautiful country, of rich soil and having plenty of cattle, and horses, and containing some settlers, but on the east all was barren, dry, rocky, sandy desert as far as could be seen.  We knew this eastern side answered well the description and believed that this was really the range described, or at least it was close by.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We had to look over the matter very carefully and consider all the conditions and circumstances of the case.  We could see the mountains were lower to the south, but they held no snow and seemed only barren rocks piled up in lofty peaks, and as we looked it seemed the most God-forsaken country in the world.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We had been in the region long enough to know the higher mountains contained most water, and that the valleys had bad water or none at all, so that while the lower altitudes to the south gave some promise of easier crossing it gave us no promise of water or grass, without which we must certainly perish.  In a certain sense we were lost.  The clear night and days furnished us with the mean of telling the points of compass as the sun rose and set, but not a sign of life in nature's wide domain had been seen for a month or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We talked over our present position pretty freely, and every one was asked to speak his unbiassed mind, for we knew not who might be right or who might be wrong, and some one might make a suggestion of the utmost value.  We all felt pretty much downhearted.  Our civilized provisions were getting so scarce that all must be saved for the women and children, and the men must get along some way on ox meat alone.  It was decided not a scrap of anything that would sustain life must go to waste.  The blood, hide and intestines were all prepared in some way for food.  This meeting lasted till late at night.  If some of them had lost their minds I should not have been surprised, for hunger swallows all other feelings.  A man in a starving condition is a savage.  He may be as blood-shed and selfish as a wild beast, as docile and gentle as a lamb, or as wild and crazy as a terrified animal, devoid of affection, reason or thought of justice.  We were none of us as bad as this, and yet there was a strange look in the eyes of some of us sometimes, as I saw by looking round, and as others no doubt realized for I saw them making mysterious glances even in my direction.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Morning came and all were silent.  The dim prospect of the future seemed to check every tongue.  When one left a water hole he went away as if in doubt whether he would ever enjoy the pleasure of another drop.  Every camp was sad beyond description, and no one can guide the pen to make it tell the tale as it seemed to us.  When our morning meal of soup and meat was finished, Bennett's two teams, and the two of Arcane's concluded their chances of life were better if they could take some provisions and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Bennett's two men were named Silas Helmer and S. S. or C. C. Abbott, but I have forgotton the names of Arcane's men.  Mr. Abbott was from New York, a harness maker by trade, and he took his circular cutting knife with him, saying it was light to carry and the weapon he should need.  One of them had a gun.  They took the trail taken by the Jayhawkers.  All the provisions they could carry besides their blankets could not last them to exceed 10 days, and I well knew they could hardly get off the desert in that time.  Mr. Abbott was a man I loved fondly.  He was good company in camp, and happy and sociable.  He had shown no despondency at any time untill the night of the last meeting and the morning of the parting.  His chances seemed to me to be much poorer than my own, but I hardly think he realized it.  When in bed I could not keep my thoughts back from the old home I had left, where good water and a bountiful spread were always ready at the proper hour.  I know I dreamed of taking a draft of cool, sweet water from a full pitcher and then woke up with my mouth and throat as dry as dust.  The good home I left behind was a favorite theme about the campfire, and many a one told of the dream pictures, natural as life, that came to him of the happy Eastern home with comfort and happiness surrounding it, even if wealth was lacking.  The home of the poorest man on earth was preferable to this place.  Wealth was of value here.  A board of twenty dollar gold pieces could now stand before us the whole day long with no temptation to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Deeming it best to spare the strength as much as possible, I threw away everything I could, retaining only my glass, some ammunition, sheath knife and tin cup.  No unnecessary burden could be put on any man or beast, lest he lie down under it, never to rise again.  Life and strength were sought to be husbanded in every possible way.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Leaving this camp where the water was appreciated we went over a road for perhaps 8 miles and came to the mouth of a rocky can&tilde;on leading up west to the summit of the range.  This can&tilde;on was too rough for wagons to pass over.  Out in the valley near its mouth was a mound about four feet high and in the top of this a little well that held about a pailful of water that was quite strong of sulphur.  When stirred it would look quite black.  About the mouth of the well was a wire grass that seemed to prevent it caving in.  It seems the drifting sand had slowly built this little mound about the little well of water in a curious way.  We spent the night here and kept a man at the well all night to keep the water dipped out as fast as it flowed, in order to get enough for ourselves and cattle.  The oxen drank this water better than they did the brackish water of the former camp.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The plain was thinly scattered with sage brush, and up near the base of the mountain some greasewood grew in little bunches like currant bushes.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The men with wagons decided they would take this can&tilde;on and follow it up to try to get over the range, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:and not wait for me to go ahead and explore, as they said it took too much time and the provisions, consisting now of only ox meat were getting more precarious every day.  To help them all I could and if possible to be forewarned a little of danger, I shouldered my gun and pushed on ahead as fast as I could.  The bottom was of sharp broken rock, which would be very hard for the feet of the oxen, although we had rawhide mocassins for them for some time, and this was the kind of foot-gear I wore myself.  I walked on as rapidly as I could, and after a time came to where the can&tilde;on spread out into a kind of basin enclosed on all sides but the entrance, with a wall of high, steep rock, possible to ascend on foot but which would apparently bar the further progress of the wagons, and I turned back utterly disappointed.  I got on an elevation where I could look over the country east and south, and it looked as if there was not a drop of water in its whole extent, and there was no snow on the dark mountains that stretched away to the southward and it seemed to me as if difficulties beset me on every hand.  I hurried back down the can&tilde;on, but it was nearly dark before I met the wagons.  By a mishap I fell and broke the stock of my gun, over which I was very sorry, for it was an excellent one, the best I ever owned.  I carried it in two pieces to the camp and told them the way was barred, at which they could hardly endure their disappointment.  They turned in the morning, as the cattle had nothing to eat here and no water, and not much of any food since leaving the spring; they looked terribly bad, and the rough road coming up had nearly finished them.  They were yoked up and the wagons turned about for the return.  They went better down hill, but it was not long before one of Bennett's oxen lay down, and could not be pursuaded to rise again.  This was no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Arcane took a bucket of water back from camp and after drinking it and resting awhile the ox was driven down to the spring.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This night we had another meeting to decide upon our course and determine what to do.  At this meeting no one was wiser than another, for no one had explored the country and knew what to expect.  The questions that now arose were "How long can we endure this work in this situation?"  How long will our oxen be able to endure the great hardship on the small nourishment they receive?"  How long can we provide ourselves with food?"</P>
107.sgm:<P>We had a few small pieces of dry bread.  This was kept for the children giving them a little now and then.  Our only food was in the flesh of the oxen, and when they failed to carry themselves along we must begin to starve.  It began to look as if the chances of leaving our bones to bleach upon the desert were the most prominent ones.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One thing was certain we must move somewhere at once.  If we stay here we can live as long as the oxen do, and no longer, and if we go on it is uncertain where to go, to get a better place.  We had guns and ammunition to be sure, but of late we had seen no living creature in this desert wild.  Finally Mr. Bennett spoke and said:--</P>
107.sgm:<P>"Now I will make you a proposition."  "I propose that we select two of our youngest, strongest men and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Now what do you all say?"  After a little discussion all seemed to agree that this was the best, and now it remained to find the men to go.  No one offered to accept the position of advance messengers.  Finally Mr. Bennett said he knew one man well enough to know that he would come back if he lived, and he was sure he would push his way through.  "I will take Lewis (myself) if he will consent to go."  I consented, though I knew it was a hazardous journey, exposed to all sorts of things, Indians, climate and probable lack of water, but I thought I could do it and would not refuse.  John Rogers a large strong Tennessee, man was then chosen as the other one and he consented also.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Now preparations began, Mr. Arcane killed the ox which had so nearly failed, and all the men went to drying and preparing meat.  Others made us some new mocassins out of rawhide, and the women made us each a knapsack.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our meat was closely packed, and one can form an idea how poor our cattle were from the fact that John and I actually packed seven-eighths of all the flesh of an ox into our knapsacks and carried it away.  They put in a couple of spoonfulls of rice and about as much tea.  This seemed like robbery to the children, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This advice we received in all the kindness in which it was given, and then he bade them all good bye.  Some turned away, too much affected to approach us and others, shook our hands with deep feeling, grasping them firmly and heartly hoping we would be successful and be able to pilot them out of this dreary place into a better land.  Every one felt that a little food to make a change from the poor dried meat would be acceptable.  Mr. and Mrs. Bennett and J. B. Arcane and wife were the last to remain when the others had turned away.  They had most faith in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We were so much affected that we could not speak and silently turned away and took our course again up the canyon we had descended the night before.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After a while we looked back and when they saw us turn around, all the hats and bonnets waved us a final parting.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Those left in the camp were Asabel, Bennett and Sarah his wife, with three children, George, Melissa, and Martha; J. B. Arcane and wife with son Charles.  The youngest children were not more than two years old.  There were also the two Earhart brothers, and a grown son, Capt. Culverwell, and some others I cannot recall; eleven grown people in all, besides a Mr. Wade, his wife and three children who did not mingle with our party, but usually camped a little distance off, followed our trail, but seemed to shun company.  We soon passed round a bend of the can&tilde;on, and then walked on in silence.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We both of us meditated some over the homes of our fathers, but took new courage in view of the importance of our mission and passed on as fast as we could.</P>
107.sgm:<P>By night we were far up the mountain, near the perpendicular rough peak, and far above us on a slope we could see some bunches of grass and sage brush.  We went to this and found some small water holes.  No water ran from them they were so small.  Here we staid all night.  It did not seem very far to the snowy peak to the north of us.  Just where we were seemed the lowest pass, for to the south were higher peaks and the rocks looked as if they were too steep to be got over.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Through this gap came a cold breeze, and we had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This mountain seemed to have very few trees on it, and in extent, as it reached away to the north seemed interminable.  South was a nearly level plain, and to the west I thought I could dimly see a range of mountains that held a little snow upon their summits, but on the main range to the south there was none.  It seemed to me the dim snowy mountains must be as far as 200 miles away, but of course I could not judge accurately.  After looking at this grand, but worthless landscape long enough to take in its principal features we asked each other what we supposed the people we left behind would think to see mountains so far ahead.  We knew that they had an idea that the coast range was not very far ahead, but we saw at once to go over all these mountains and return within the limits of fifteen days which had been agreed upon between us, would probably be impossible, but we must try as best we could, so down the rocky steep we clambered and hurried on our way.  In places the way was so steep that we had to help each other down, and the hard work made us perspire freely so that the water was a prime necessity.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>In one place near here, we found a little water and filled our canteens, besides drinking a good present supply.  There were two low, black rocky ranges directly ahead of us which we must cross.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When part way down the mountain a valley or depression opened up in that direction up which it seemed as if we could look a hundred miles.  Near by and a short distance north was a lake of water and when we reached the valley we crossed a clear stream of water flowing slowly toward the lake.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Being in need of water, we rushed eagerly to it and prepared to take a big drink, but the tempting fluid was as salt as brine and made our thirst all the more intolerable.  Nothing grew on the bank of this stream and the bed was of hard clay, which glistened in the sun.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now began the ascent of the next ridge, keeping a westernly course, and walked as fast as we could up the rough mountain side.  We crossed the head of a can&tilde;on near the summit about dark, and here we found a trail, which from indications we knew to be that of the Jayhawkers, who had evidently been forced to the southward of the course they intended to take.  They had camped here and had dug holes in the sand in search of water, but had found none.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We staid all night here and dug around in some other places in the bottom of the can&tilde;on, in the hope to have better luck than they did, but we got no water anywhere.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We seemed almost perishing for want of water, the hard exercise made us perspire so freely.  In the morning we started on, and near the summit we came to the dead body of Mr. Fish, laying in the hot sun, as there was no material near here with which his friends could cover the remains.  This Mr. Fish was the man who left camp some two weeks before in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As we came in sight of the next valley, we could see a lake of water some distance south of our western course.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We had followed the Jayhawkers trail thus far, but as we found no water in small holes in the rocks as we were likely to do when we were the first to pass, we decided to take a new route in the hope to find a little water in this way, for we had no hope of finding it in any other.  This valley we now crossed seemed to come to an end about ten miles to the north of us.  To the south it widened out, enclosing the lake spoken of.  This valley was very sandy and hard to walk over.  When about halfway across we saw some ox tracks leading toward the lake, and in the hope we might find the water drinkable we turned off at right angles to our course and went that way also.  Long before we reached the water of the lake, the bottom became a thin' slimy mud which was very hard on our mocassins.  When we reached the water we found it to be of a wine color, and so strongly alkaline as to feel slippery to the touch, and under our feet.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This side trip, had cost us much exertion and made us feel more thirsty than ever.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We turned now west again, making for a can&tilde;on, up which we passed in the hope we should at some turn find a little basin of rain water in some rock.  We traveled in it miles and miles, and our mouths became so dry we had to put a bullet or a small smooth stone in and chew it and turn it around with the tongue to induce a flow of saliva.  If we saw a spear of green grass on the north side of a rock, it was quickly pulled and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Thus we traveled along for hours, never speaking, for we found it much better for our thirst to keep our mouths closed as much as possible, and prevent the evaporation.  The dry air of that region took up water as a sponge does.  We passed the summit of this ridge without finding any water, and on our way down the western side we came to a flat place where there was an Indian hut made of small brush.  We now thought there surely must be some water near and we began a thorough search.  The great snow mountain did not seem far off, but to the south and southwest a level or inclined plain extended for a long distance.  Our thirst began to be something terrible to endure, and in the warm weather and hard walking we had secured only two drinks since leaving camp.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were so sure that there must be water near here that we laid our knapsacks down by the little hut and looked around in every possible place we could think of.  Soon it got dark and then we made a little fire as a guide and looked again.  Soon the moon arose and helped us some, and we shouted frequently to each other so as not to get lost.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were so nearly worn out that we tried to eat a little meat, but after chewing a long time, the mouth would not moisten it enough so we could swallow, and we had to reject it.  It seemed as if we were going to die with plenty of food in our hand, because we could not eat it.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We tried to sleep but could not, but after a little rest we noticed a bright star two hours above the horizon, and from the course of the moon we saw the star must be pretty truly west of us.  We talked a little, and the burden of it was a fear that we could not endure the terrible thirst a while longer.  The thought of the women and children waiting for our return made us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The moon gave us so much light that we decided we would start on our course, and get as far as we could before the hot sun came out, and so we went on slowly and carefully in the partial darkness, the only hope left to us being that our strength would hold out till we could get to the shining snow on the great mountain before us.  We reached the foot of the range we were descending about sunrise.  There was here a wide wash from the snow mountain, down which some water had sometime run after a big storm, and had divided into little rivulets only reaching out a little way before they had sunk into the sand.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We had no idea we could now find any water till we at least got very near the snow, and as the best way to reach it we turned up the wash although the course was nearly to the north.  The course was up a gentle grade and seemed quite sandy and not easy to travel.  It looked as if there was an all day walk-before us, and it was quite a question if we could live long enough to make the distance.  There were quite strong indications that the water had run here not so very long ago, and we could trace the course of the little streams round among little sandy islands.  A little stunted brush grew here but it was so brittle that the stems would break as easy as an icicle.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In order to not miss a possible bit of water we separated and agreed upon a general course, and that if either one found water he should fire his gun as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I can but think how providential it was that we started in the night for in an hour after the sun had risen that little sheet of ice would have melted and the water sank into the sand.  Having quenched our thirst we could now eat, and found that we were nearly starved also.  In making this meal we used up all our little store of water, but we felt refreshed and our lives renewed so that we had better courage to go on.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now took our course west again taking a bee line for a bluff that lay a little to the south of the big snow mountain.  On and on we walked till the dark shadow of the great mountain in the setting sun was thrown about us, and still we did not seem more than half way to the bluff before us.</P>
107.sgm:<P>All the way had been hill and very tiresome walking.  There was considerable small brush scattered about, here and there, over this steeply inclined plain.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were still several miles from the base of this largest of the mountains and we could now see that it extended west for many miles.  The buttes to the south were low, black and barren, and to the west as far as we could see there were no mountains with any snow.  As the sun got further down we could see a small smoke curling up near the base of the mountain, and we thought it must be some signal made by the Indians, as we had often seen them signal in that way, but we stopped and talked the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We took a circuitous route and soon saw that the persons were on a little bench above us and we kept very cautious and quiet, listening for any sounds that might tell us who they were.</P>
107.sgm:<P>If they were Indians we should probably hear some of their dogs, but we heard none, and kept creeping closer and closer, till we were within fifty yards without hearing a sound to give us any idea of who they were.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We decided to get our guns at full cock and then hail the camp, feeling that we had a little the advantage of position.  We hailed and were answered in English.  "Don't Shoot" said we and they assured us they had no idea of such a thing, and asked us to come in.  We found here to our surprise, Ed Doty, Tom Shannon, L. D. Stevens, and others whom I do not recollect, the real Jayhawkers.  They gave us some fresh meat for supper, and near the camp were some water holes that answered well for camp purposes.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Here an ox had given out and they had stopped long enough to dry the meat, while the others had gone on a day ahead.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Coming around the mountain from the north was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We inquired of them about the trail over which they had come, and where they had found water, and we told them of our experience in this respect.  We then related how our train could not go over the mountains with wagons, how they had returned to the best spring, and that we started to go through to the settlements to obtain relief while they waited for our return.  We explained to them how they must perish without assistance.  If we failed to get through, they could probably live as long as the oxen lasted and would then perish of starvation.  We told them how nearly we came to the point of perishing that very morning, of thirst, and how we were saved by finding a little patch of ice in an unexpected place, and were thus enabled to come on another days travel.</P>
107.sgm:<P>These men were not as cheerful as they used to be and their situation and prospects constantly occupied their minds.  They said to us that if the present trail bore away from the mountain and crossed the level plain, that there were some of them who could not possibly get along safely to the other side.  Some were completely discouraged, and some were completely out of provisions and dependent on those who had either provisions or oxen yet on hand.  An ox was frequently killed, they said, and no part of it was wasted.  At a camp where there was no water, for stewing, a piece or hide would be prepared for eating by singeing off the hair and then roasting in the fire.  The small intestines were drawn through the fingers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>They said they had been without water for four or five days at a time and came near starving to death, for it was impossible to swallow food when one became so thirsty.  They described the pangs of hunger as something terrible and not to be described.  They were willing to give us any information we desired and we anxiously received all we could, for on our return we desired to take the best possible route, and we thus had the experience of two parties instead of one.  They told us about the death of Mr. Fish and Mr. Isham, and where we would find their bodies if we went over their trail.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the morning we shouldered our packs again and took the trail leading to the west, and by night we had overtaken the advance party of the Jayhawkers, camped in a can&tilde;on where there was a little water barely sufficient for their use.  We inquired why they did not take the trail leading more directly west at the forks, and they said they feared it would lead them into deep snow which would be impasslble.  They said they considered the trail they had taken as altogether the safest one.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We met Bennett and Arcane's teamsters, and as we expected they were already out of grub and no way to get anymore.  When the party killed an ox they had humbly begged for some of the poorest parts, and thus far were alive.  They came to us and very pitifully told us they were entirely out, and although an ox had been killed that day they had not been able to get a mouthful.  We divided up our meat and gave them some although we did not know how long it would be before we would ourselves be in the same situation.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Thus far we had not seen anything to shoot, big <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The whole camp was silent, and all seemed to realize their situation.  Before them was a level plain which had the appearance of being so broad as to take five or six days to cross.  Judging by the look from the top of the mountain as we came over, there was little to hope for in the way of water.  We thought it over very seriously.  All the water we could carry would be our canteens full, perhaps two drinks apiece and the poor meat had so little nourishment that we were weak and unable to endure what we once conld.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were alone, Rogers and I, in interest at any rate, even if there were other men about.  For the time it really seemed as if there was very little hope for us and I have often repeated the following lines as very closely describing my own feelings at that time.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh hands, whose loving, gentle grasp I loosed.<LB>When first this weary journey was begun.<LB>If I could feel your touch as once I could.<LB>How gladly would I wish my work undone.<LB></HI>
107.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Harriet Keynon</HI>
107.sgm:<P>During the evening, I had a talk with Capt. Asa Haines, in which he said he left a good home in Illinois, where he had everything he could wish to eat, and every necessary comfort, and even some to spare, and now he felt so nearly worn out that he had many doubts whether he could live to reach the mountains, on the other side.  He was so deeply impressed that he made me promise to let his wife and family know how I found him and how he died, for he felt sure he wonld never see the California mines.  I said I might not get through myself, but he thought we were so young and strong that we would struggle through.  He said if he could only be home once more he would be content to stay.  This was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This camp of trouble, of forlorn hope, on the edge of a desert stretching out before us like a small sea, with no hope for relief except at the end of a struggle which seemed almost hopeless, is more than any pen can paint, or at all describe.  The writer had tried it often.  Picture to yourself, dear reader the situation and let your own imagination do the rest.  It can never come up to the reality.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the morning, as Rogers and I were about to start, several of the oldest men came to us with their addresses and wished us to forward them to their families if we ever got within the the reach of mails.  These men shed tears, and we did also as we parted.  We turned silently away and again took up our march.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As we went down the can&tilde;on we came to one place where it was so narrow, that a man or a poor ox could barely squeeze through between the rocks, and in a few miles more reached the open level plain.  When three or four miles out on the trail and not far from the hills we came to a bunch of quite tall willows.  The center of the bunch had been cut out and the branches woven in so as to make a sort of corral.  In the center of this was a spring of good water and some good grass growing around.  This was pretty good evidence that some one had been here before.  We took a good drink and filled our canteens anew, for we did not expect to get another drink for two or three days at least.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We took the trail again and hurried on as the good water made us feel quite fresh.  After a few miles we began to find the bones of animals, some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It was a dreary trail at best, and these evidences of death did not help to brighten it in the least.  We wondered often where it led to and what new things would be our experience.  After walking fast all day we came to quite an elevation, where we could stand and look in all directions.  The low black range where we left the Jayhawkers was in sight, and this spur of the great snowy mountains extended a long way to the south, and seemed to get lower and lower, finally ending in low rocky buttes, a hundred miles away.  Some may think this distance very far to see, but those who have ever seen the clear atmosphere of that region will bear me out in these magnificent distances.  Generally a mountain or other object seen at a distance would be three or four times as far off as one would judge at first sight, so deceptive are appearances there.  The broad south end of the great mountain which we first saw the next morning after we left the wagons, was now plain in sight, and peak after peak extending away to the north, all of them white with snow.  Standing thus out in the plain we could see the breadth of the mountain east and west, and it seemed as though it must have been nearly a hundred miles.  The south end was very abrupt and sank as one into a great plain in which we stood, twenty miles from the mountain's base.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>To the northwest we could see a clay lake, or at least that was what we called it, and a line of low hills seemed to be an extension of the mountain in a direction swinging around to the south to enclose this thirsty, barren plain before us, which was bounded by mountains or hills on these sides.  To the south this range seemed to get higher, and we could see some snow capped mountains to the south of our westerly course.  The low mountains as those seen in the northwest direction is the same place now crossed by the Southern Pacific Railroad, and known as the Tehachipi pass, the noted loop, in which the railroad crosses itself, being on the west slope and Ft. Tejon being on the same range a little further south where the Sierra Nevada mountains and the Coast Range join.  The first mountain bearing snow, south of our course was probably what is know as Wilson's peak, and the high mountains still farther south, the San Bernardino mountains.  There were no names there known to us nor did we know anything of the topography of the country except that we supposed a range of mountains was all that separated us from California.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were yet in the desert, and if we kept our due west course, we must cross some of the snow before us which if steep gave us some doubts whether we could get through or not.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We did not know exactly what the people left behind would do if we were gone longer than we intended, but if they started on it was quite plain to us they would be lost, and as seven days had already passed we were in serious trouble for fear we could not complete the trip in the time allotted to us.  We surveyed the plain and mountains to learn its situation and then started, on following our trail.  As we went on we seemed to be coming to lower ground, and near our road stood a tree of a kind we had not seen before.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It was a brave little tree to live in such a barren country.  As we walked on these trees were more plenty and some were much larger than the first.  As we came to the lowest part of the valley there seemed to be little faint water ways running around little clouds of stunted shrubs, but there was no signs that very much water ever run in them.  We thought that these were the outlet of the big sandy lake which might get full of water and overflow through these channels after some great storm.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As this low ground was quite wide we lost our trail in crossing it, and we separated as we went along, looking to find it again, till nearly dark when we looked for a camping place.  Fortunately we found a little pond of rain water, and some of our strange trees that were dead gave us good material for a fire, so that we were very comfortable indeed, having both drink and fire.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Starting on again our course was now ascending slightly, and we came across more and more of the trees, and larger ones than at first.  We saw some that seemed to have broken down with their own weight.  The bayonet shaped leaves seemed to fall off when old and the stalk looked so much like an old overgrown cabbage stump that we name them "Cabbage trees," but afterward learned they were a species of Yucca.  We were much worned at loosing our trail and felt that it would be quite unsafe to try to cross the mountain without finding it again, so we separated, Rogers going northwest, and I southwest, agreeing to swing round so as to meet again about noon, but when we met, neither of us had found a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>So we pushed on, still keeping a distance apart to look out for the trail, and before night, in the rolling hills, we saw here and there faint traces of it, which grew plainer as we went along, and about sundown we reached some water holes and from some old skulls of oxen lying around the ground showing that it had at some previous time been a camping ground.  We found some good large sage brush which made a pretty good fire, and if we could have had a little fresh meat to roast we thought we were in a good position for supper.  But that poor meat was pretty dry food.  However it kept us alive, and we curled up together and slept, for the night was cool, and we had to make the little blanket do its best.  We thought we ought to find a little game, but we had not seen any to shoot since we started.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the morning the trail led us toward the snow, and as we went along, a brave old crow surprised us by lighting on a bush near the trail, and we surprised him by killing him with a charge of shot.  "Here's your fresh meat," said Rogers as he put it into his knapsack to cook for supper, and marched on.  As we approached the summit we could see, on the high mountains south of us, some trees, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When we got out of the snow we had lost the trail again but the hills on the sides were covered with large brush, and on a higher part of the mountain south, were some big trees, and we began to think the country would change for the better pretty soon.  We followed down the ravine for many miles, and when this came out into a larger one, we were greatly pleased at the prospect, for down the latter came a beautiful little running brook of clear pure water, singing as it danced over the stones, a happy song and telling us to drink and drink again, and you may be sure we did drink, for it had been months and months since we had had such water, pure, sweet, free from the terrible alkali and stagnant taste that had been in almost every drop we had seen.  Rogers leveled his shot gun at some birds and killed a beautiful one with a top knot on his head, and colors bright all down his neck.  It was a California quail.  We said birds always lived where human beings did, and we had great hopes born to us of a better land.  I told John that if the folks were only there now I could kill game enough for them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We dressed our three birds and got them boiling in the camp kettle, and while they were cooking talked over the outlook which was so flattering that our tongues got loose and we rattled away in strange contrast to the ominous silence of a week ago.  While <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>There seemed to be no other way for us but to push on in the morning and try to obtain some relief for the poor women and children and then get back to them as fast as ever we could, so we shouldered our packs and went on down the can&tilde;on as fast as we could.  We came soon to evergreen oaks and tall cottonwoods, and the creek bottom widened out to two hundred yards.  There were trees on the south side and the brush kept getting larger and larger.  There was a trail down this can&tilde;on, but as it passed under fallen trees we knew it could not have been the same one we had been following on the other side of the summit, and when we discovered a bear track in a soft place we knew very well it was not a trail intended for human beings, and we might be orderd out almost any moment.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>On the high bold grassy point about four hundred yards we saw two horses that held their heads aloft and gave a snort, then galloped away out of sight.  About 10 o'clock I felt a sudden pain in my left knee, keen and sharp, and as we went along it kept growing worse.  I had to stop often to rest, and it was quite plain that if this increased or continued I was sure enough disabled, and would be kept from helping those whom we had left.  Nerved with the idea we must get help to them, and that right soon, I hobbled along as well as I could, but soon had to say to Rogers that he had better go on ahead and get help and let me come on as best I could, for every moment of delay was a danger of death to our party who trusted us to get them help.  Rogers refused to do this, he said he would stay with me and see me out, and that he could not do much alone, and had better wait till I got better.  So we worked along through the tangled brush, being many times compelled to wade the stream to get along, and this made our mocassins soft and very uncomfortable to wear.  I endured the pain all day, and we must have advanced quite a little distance in spite of my lameness, but I was glad when night came and we camped in the dark brushy can&tilde;on, having a big fire which made me quite comfortable all night, though it was quite cold, and we had to keep close together so as to use the blanket.  I felt a little better in the morning and after eating some of our poor dried meat, which was about as poor as crow, and I don't know but a little worse, we continued on our way.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The tangle got worse and worse as we descended, and at times we walked in the bed of the stream in order to make more headway, but my lameness increased and we had to go very slow indeed.  About enoon we came to what looked like an excavation, a hol <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The hills on the south side had on them some oak trees and grassy spots, but the north side was thickly covered with brush.  Our beautiful little brook that had kept us company soon sank into the dry sand out of sight, and we moved rather slowly along every little while we spoke of the chances of wagons ever getting through the road we had come, and the hope that my lameness might not continue to retard our progress in getting back to the place of our starting, that the poor waiting people might begin to get out of the terrible country they were in and enjoy as we had done, the beautiful running stream of this side of the mountain.  If I did not get better the chances were that they would perish, for they never could come through alone, as the distance had proved much greater than we had anticipated, and long dry stretches of the desert were more than they would be prepared for.  As it was we feared greatly that we had consumed so much time they would get impatient and start out and be lost.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I continued to hobble along down the barren valley as well as I could and here and there some tracks of animals were discovered, but we could not make out whether they were those of domestic cattle or elk.  Soon, on the side of a hill, rather high up a pack <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Before us now was a spur from the hills that reached nearly across our little valley and shut out further sight in that direction and when we came to it we climbed up over it to shorten the distance.  When the summit was reached a most pleasing sight filled our sick hearts with a most indiscribable joy.  I shall never have the ability to adequately describe the beauty of the scene as it appeared to us, and so long as I live that landscape will be impressed upon the canvas of my memory as the most cheering in the world.  There before us was a beautiful meadow of a thousand acres, green as a thick carpet of grass could make it, and shaded with oaks, wide branching and symmetrical, equal to those of an old English park, while all over the low mountains that bordered it on the south and over the broad acres of luxuriant grass was a herd of cattle numbering many hundreds if not thousands.  They were of all colors shades and sizes.  Some were calmly lying down in happy rumination, others rapidly cropping the sweet grass, while the gay calves worked off their superfluous life and spirit in vigorous exercise or drew rich nourishment in the abundant mother's milk.  All seemed happy and content, and such a scene of abundance and rich plenty and comfort bursting thus upon our eyes which for months had seen only the desolation and sadness of the desert, was like getting a glimpse of Paradise, and tears of joy ran down our faces.  If ever a poor mortal escapes from this world where so many trials come, and joys of a happy Heaven are opened up to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>And <HI REND="italics">now if the others were only here</HI>
107.sgm:<P>I now thought of myself and my failing knee and we sat down under the shade of an oak to rest, and after a little, better feeling seemed to come.  Down by a deep gully cut by the rains a yearling steer was feeding, and I took the rifle and crawled down near him and put first one ball through him, and then another, before he fell dead on the other side of the wash, when we sprang with all the agility of a deer.  We quickly got some good meat and had it roasted and eaten almost quicker than can be told.  We hardly realized how near starved we were till we had plenty before us again.  We ate till we were satisfied for once, and for the first time in many long dreary weeks.  We kindled a fire and commenced drying the meat, one sleeping while the other kept the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The miserable dried meat in our knapsacks was put away and this splendid jerked beef put in its place.  The wolves came to our camp and howled in dreadful disappointment at not getting a meal.  Rogers wanted me to shoot the miserable howlers, but I let them have their concert out, and thought going without their breakfast must be punishment enough for them.  As our mocassins were worn out we carefully prepared some sinews from the steer and made new foot gear from the green hide which placed us in shape for two or three week's walking.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The morning was clear and pleasant.  We had our knapsacks filled with good food we had prepared, and were enjoying the cool breeze which came up the valley, when we heard faintly the bark of a dog, or at least we thought we did.  If this were true there must be some one living not very far away and we felt better.  I was still very lame and as we started along the walking seemed to make it worse again, so that it was all I could do to follow John on the trail down the valley.  As we went along a man and woman passed us some distance on the left, and they did not seem to notice us, though we were in plain sight.  They were curiously dressed.  The woman had no hoops nor shoes, and a shawl wound about her neck and one end thrown over her head, was a substitute bonnet.  The man had sandals on his feet, with white cotton pants, a calico shirt, and a wide rimmed, comical, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Difficulties began to arise in our minds now we were in an apparent land of plenty, but in spite of all we went along as fast as my lame knee would permit me to do.  A house on higher ground soon appeared in sight.  It was low, of one story with a flat roof, gray in color, and of a different style of architecture from any we had ever seen before.  There was no fence around it, and no animals or wagons in sight, nor person to be seen.  As we walked up the hill toward it I told John our mocassins made of green hide would betray us as having recently killed an animal, and as these people might be the owners and detain us by having us arrested for the crime, and this would be especially bad for us just now.  We determined to face the people, and let the fact of our close necessities be a sufficient excuse for us, if we could make them understand our circumstances.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As we came near the house no person was seen, but a mule tied to a post told us there was some one about, and a man soon made an appearance, dressed about same style as the one we had passed a short time before.  As we came near we saluted him, bidding him good morning, and he in turn touched his hat politely, saying something in reply which we were not able to understand.  I showed him that I was lame, and taking out some money pointed to the mule, but he only shook his head and said something <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We tried to inquire where we were or where ought to go, but could get no satisfactory answer from the man, although when we spoke San Francisco he pointed to the north.  This was not very satisfactory to us and we seemed as badly lost as ever, and where or which way to go we did not seem very successful in finding out.  So we concluded to go on a little way at least, and I hobbled off in the direction he pointed, which was down the hill and past a small, poorly fenced field which was sometimes cultivated, and across the stream which followed down the valley.  Passing on a mile or two we stopped on a big patch of sand to rest.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I told Rogers I did not think this course would lead us to any place in a month, and just now a delay was ruinous to us and to those who were waiting for us, and it would not do for us to go off to the north to find a settlement.  While I was expressing my opinion on matters and things, Rogers had wet up a part of his meal with water and put it to bake on the cover of his camp kettle.  There was a fair sized cake for each of us, and it was the first bread of any kind we had eaten for months, being a very acceptable change from an exclusively meat diet.  Looking up the valley we could see a cloud of dust, thick and high, and soon several men on horseback who came at a rushing gallop.  I told Rogers they were after us, and believed them to be a murderous set who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>They came on with a rush until within a short distance and halted for consultation just across the creek, after which one of them advanced toward us and as he came near us we could see he was a white man, who wished us good evening in our own language.  We answered him rather cooly, still sitting in the sand and he no doubt saw that we were a little suspicious of the crowd.  He asked us where we were from, and we told him our circumstances and condition and that we would like to secure some means of relief for the people we had left in the desert, but our means were very limited and we wanted to do the best we could.  He said we were about 500 miles from San Francisco, not far from 100 miles from the coast and thirty miles from Los Angeles.  We were much afraid we would not be able to get anything here, but he told us to go across the valley to a large live oak tree which he pointed out, and said we would find an American there, and we should wait there till morning.  He said he would go back and stay at the house we had passed, and would do what he could to assist us to go to Los Angeles where we could get some supplies.  Then he rode away, and as we talked it over we saw no way but to follow the directions of our newfound friend.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It seemed now that my lameness had indeed been a blessing.  If I had been able to walk we would now have been well on toward the seashore, where we could have found no such friend as this who had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>At the big live oak tree we found an American camper, who was on his way to the gold mines.  He was going a new route and said the mines could be reached much quicker than by going up the coast by way of San Francisco.  A new company with wagons was soon to start out to break the road, and when they crossed the east end of the valley he would follow them.  I think this man's name was Springer.  He had come by way of the Santa Fe route, and the people of Los Angeles had told him this route was an easy one being often traveled by saddle horses, and if the company could make it possible for wagons they could have all the cattle they wanted to kill along the road as their pay for doing the work.  Our new friend lay down early, and as he saw we were scant in blankets he brought some to us for our use, which were most thankfully received.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As soon as we were alone Rogers mixed up some more of the meal which we baked in our friend's frying pan, and we baked and ate and baked and ate again, for our appetites were ravenous, and the demand of our stomachs got the better of the judgment of our brains.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It was hard to find time to sleep, we were so full of the plans about the way, which we must manage to get relief for the people.  We had many doubts if animals could ever come over the route we had come over, from deliberation we decided that by selecting a route <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Thus again, our sleep was troubled from another cause.  Being so long unaccustomed to vegetable food, and helped on, no doubt, by our poor judgment in guaging the quantity of our food, we were attacked by severe pains in the stomach and bowels, from which we suffered intensely.  We arose very early and with a very light breakfast, for the sickness admonished us, we started back for the house we had first passed, at which our friend on horseback, said he would spend the night and where we were to meet him this morning.  He said he could talk Spanish all right and would do all he could to help us.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our suffering and trouble caused us to move very slowly, so that it was nine or ten o'clock before we reached the house, and we found they had two horses all ready for us to go to Los Angeles.  There were no saddles for us, but we thought this would be a good way to cure my lameness.  The people seemed to be friends to us in every way.  We mounted, having our packs on our backs, and our guns before us, and with a friendly parting to the people who did not go, all four of us started on a trip of thirty miles to the town of Los Angeles.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When we reached the foot of the mountain which was very steep but not rocky, John and I dismounted and led our animals to the top, where we could see a long way west, and south, and it looked supremely beautiful.  We could not help comparing it to the long wide, desert we had crossed, and John and myself said many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>There appeared to be one quite large house in sight, and not far off, which the man told us was the Mission of San Fernando, a Roman Catholic Church and residence for priests and followers.  The downward slope of the mountain was as steep as the other side and larger, and John and I did not attempt to mount till we were well down on the level ground again, but the other two men rode up and down without any trouble.  We would let our leaders get half a mile or so ahead of us and then mount and put our horses to a gallop till we overtook them again.  We had walked so long that riding was very tiresome to us, and for comfort alone we would have preferred the way on foot, but we could get along a little faster, and the frequent dismounting kept us from becoming too lame from riding.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We passed the Mission about noon or a little after, and a few miles beyond met a man on horseback who lived up to the north about a hundred miles.  His name was French and he had a cattle range at a place called Tejon (Tahone).  Our friends told him who we were, and what assistance we needed.  Mr. French said he was well acquainted in Los Angeles and had been there some time, and that all the travelers who would take the Coast route had gone, those who had come by way of Salt Lake had got in from two to four weeks before, and a small train which had come the Santa Fe Route was still upon the road.  He said Los Angeles was so clear of emigrants that he did not think we could get any help there at the present time.</P>
107.sgm:<P>`Now," said Mr. French--"You boys can't talk Spanish and it is not very likely you will be able to get any help.  Now I say, you boys turn back and go with me and I will give you the best I have, I will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>When night came we were again at the Mission we had passed on the way down.  We were kindly treated here, for I believe Mr. French told them about us.  They sent an Indian to take our horses, and we sat down beside the great house.  There were many smaller <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>We were very tired and sat down by the side of the house and rested, wondering how we would come out with our preparations.  They were talking together, but we could not understand a word.  A dark woman came out and gave each of us a piece of cooked squash.  It seemed to have been roasted in the ashes and was very sweet and good.  These were all signs of friendship and we were glad of the good feeling.  We were given a place to sleep in the house, in a store room on a floor which was not soft.  This was the second house we had slept in since leaving Wisconsin, and it seemed rather pent-up to us.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the morning we were shown a kind of mill like a coffee mill, and by putting in a handful of wheat from a pile and giving the mill a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>After a little, our dark woman came and gave us each a pancake and a piece of meat, also another piece of roasted sqash, for our breakfast, and this, we thought, was the best meal we had ever eaten.  The lady tried to talk to us but we could not understand the words, and I could convey ideas to her better by the sign language than any other way.  She pointed out the way from which we came and wanted to know how many day's travel it might be away, and I answered by putting my hand to my head and closing my eyes, which was repeated as many times as there had been nights on our journey, at which she was much surprised that the folks were so far away.  She then place her hand upon her breast and then held it up, to ask how many women there were, and I answered her by holding up three fingers, at which she shrugged her shoulders and shook her head.  Then pointing to a child by her side, four or five years old, and in the same way asked how many children, I answered by holding up four fingers, and she almost cried, opening her mouth in great surprise, and turned away.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I said to Rogers that she was a kind, well meaning woman, and that Mr. French had no doubt told her something of our story.  Aside from her dark complexion her features reminded me of my mother, and at first sight of her I thought of the best woman on earth my own far off mother, who little knew the hardships we had endured.  We went to work again at the mill and after a while the woman came again and tried to talk and to teach us some words of her own language.  She place her finger on me and said <HI REND="italics">ombre</HI>
107.sgm: and I took out my little book and wrote down <HI REND="italics">ombre</HI>
107.sgm: as meaning man, and in the same way she taught <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:me that <HI REND="italics">mujer</HI>
107.sgm:, was woman; <HI REND="italics">trigo</HI>
107.sgm:, wheat; <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
107.sgm:, beans; <HI REND="italics">carne</HI>
107.sgm:, meat; <HI REND="italics">calazasa</HI>
107.sgm:, pumpkin; <HI REND="italics">caballo</HI>
107.sgm:, horse; <HI REND="italics">vaca</HI>
107.sgm:, cow; <HI REND="italics">muchacho</HI>
107.sgm:<P>I got hold of many words thus to study, so that if I ever came back I could talk a little and make myself understood as to some of the common objects and things of necessary use.  Such friendly, human acts shown to us strangers, were evidences of the kindest disposition.  I shall never forget the kindness of those original Californians.  When in Walker's camp and finding he was friendly to Mormonism we could claim that we were also Mormons, but the good people though well known Catholics, did not so much as mention the fact nor inquire whether we favored that sect or not.  We were human beings in distress and we represented others who were worse even than we, and those kind acts and great good will, were given freely because we were fellow human beings.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The provisions we prepared were, a sack of small yellow beans; a small sack of wheat, a quantity of good dried meat, and some of the coarse, unbolted flour we had made at the mills.  They showed us how to properly pack the horse, which was a kind of work we had not been use to, and we were soon ready for a start.  I took what money we had and put it on a block, making signs for them to take what the things were worth.  They took $30, and we were quite surprised to get two horses, provisions, pack-saddles and ropes, some of the latter made of rawhide and some of hair, so cheaply, but we afterward learned that the mares furnished were not considered of much value, and we had really paid a good fair price for everything.  To make it easy for us they had also fixed our knapsacks on the horses.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The good lady with the child, came out with four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Another man offered a little snow-white mare, as fat as butter, for $15, which I paid, though it took the last cent of money I had.  This little beauty of a beast was broken to lead at halter, but had not been broken in any other way.  Rogers said he would ride <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>After some bucking and backing on the part of the mare and a good deal of whipping and kicking on the part of the man, and a good many furious dashes in lively, but very awkward ways, the little beast yielded the point, and carried her load without further trouble.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The people gave us a good supper and breakfast, and one man came and presented us with 25 pounds of unbolted wheat flour.  They were of great assistance to us in showing us how to pack and sack our load, which was not heavy and could be easily carried by our two animals which we had at first.  However we arranged a pack on the mule and this gave me a horse to ride and a mule to lead, while Rogers rode his milk-white steed and led the other horse.  Thus we went along and following the trail soon reached the summit from which we could see off to the East a wonderful distance, probably 200 miles, of the dry and barren desert of hill and desolate valley over which we had come.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The trail bearing still to the north from this point, we left and turned due east across the country, and soon came to a beautiful lake of sweet fresh water situated well up toward the top of the mountain.  This lake is now called Elizabeth Lake.  Here we watered our animals and filled our canteens, then steered a little south of east among the Cabbage trees, aiming to strike the rain water hole where we had camped as we came over.  We reached the water hole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Next day we passed the water holes at the place where we had so stealthily crawled up to Doty's camp when coming out.  These holes held about two pails of water each, but no stream run away from them.  Our horses seemed to want water badly for when they drank they put their head in up to their eyes and drank ravenously.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Thirty miles from here to the next water, Doty had told us, and night overtook us before we could reach it, so a dry camp was made.  Our horses began now to walk with drooping heads and slow, tired steps, so we divided the load among them all and walked ourselves.  The water, when reached <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Above the rough bed of the can&tilde;on the bottom was gravelly and narrow, and the walls on each side nearly perpendicular.  Our horses now poked slowly along` and as we passed the steep wall of the can&tilde;on the white animal left the trail and walked with full force, head first, against the solid rock.  She seemed to be blind, and though we went quickly to her and took off the load she carried, she had stopped breathing by the time we had it done.  Not knowing how far it was to water, nor how soon some of our other horses might fall, we did not tarry, but pushed on as well as we could, finding no water.  We reached the summit and turned down a ravine, following the trail, and about dark came to the water they had told us about, a faint running stream which came out of a rocky ravine and sank almost immediately in the dry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Next morning the little mule carried all the remaining load, the horses bearing only their saddles, and seemed hardly strong enough for that.  There was now seven or eight miles of clean loose sand to go over, across a little valley which came to an end about ten miles north of us, and extended south to the lake where we went for water on our outward journey and found it red alkali.  Near the Eastern edge of the valley we turned aside to visit the grave of Mr. Isham, which they had told us of.  They had covered his remains with their hands as best they could, piling up a little mound of sand over it.  Our next camp was to be on the summit of the range just before us, and we passed the dead body of Mr. Fish, we had seen before, and go on a little to a level sandy spot in the ravine just large enough to sleep on.  This whole range is a black mass rocky piece of earth, so barren that not a spear of grass can grow, and not a drop of water in any place.  We tied our horses to rocks and there they staid all night, for if turned loose there was not a mouthful of food for them to get.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the morning an important question was to be decided, and that was whether we should continue to follow the Jayhawker's trail which led far to the north to cross the mountain, which stood before us, a mass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>The range was before us, and we must get to the other side in some way.  We could see the range for a hundred miles to the north and along the base some lakes of water that must be salt.  To the south it got some lower, but very barren and ending in black, dry buttes.  The horses must have food and water by night or we must leave them to die, and all things considered it seemed to be the quickest way to camp to try and get up a rough looking can&tilde;on which was nearly opposite us on the other side.  So we loaded the mule and made our way down the rocky road to the ridge, and then left the Jayhawker's trail, taking our course more south so as to get around a salt lake which lay directly before us.  On our way we had to go close to a steep bluff, and cross a piece of ground that looked like a well dried mortar bed, hard and smooth as ice, and thus got around the head of a small stream of clear water, salt as brine.  We now went directly to the mouth of the can&tilde;on we had decided to take, and traveled up its gravelly bed.  The horses now had to be urged along constantly to keep them moving and they held their heads low down as they crept along seemingly so discouraged that they would much rather lie down and rest forever than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>A perpendicular wall, or rather rise, in the rocks was approached, and there was a great difficulty to pursuade the horses to take exertion to get up and over the small obstruction, but the little mule skipped over as nimbly as a well-fed goat, and rather seemed to enjoy a little variety in the proceedings.  After some coaxing and urging the horses took courage to try the extra step and succeeded all right, when we all moved on again, over a path that grew more and more narrow, more and more rocky under foot at every moment.  We wound around among and between the great rocks, and had not advanced very far before another obstruction, that would have been a fall of about three feet had water been flowing in the can&tilde;on, opposed our way.  A small pile of lone rocks enabled the mule to go over all right, and she went on looking for every spear of grass, and smelling eagerly for water, but all our efforts were not enough to get the horses along another foot.  It was getting nearly night and every minute without water seemed an age.  We had to leave the horses and go on.  We had deemed them indispensable to us, or rather to the extrication of the women and children, and yet the hope came to us that the oxen might help some of them out as a last resort.  We were sure the wagons must be abandoned, and such a thing as women riding on the backs of oxen we had never seen, still it occurred to us as not impossible and although leaving the horses here was like deciding to abandon all for the feeble ones, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>We found the little mule stopped by a still higher precipice or perpendicular rise of fully ten feet.  Our hearts sank within us and we said that we should return to our friends as we went away, with our knapsacks on our backs, and the hope grew very small.  The little mule was nipping some stray blades of grass and as we came in sight she looked around to us and then up the steep rocks before her with such a knowing, intelligent look of confidence, that it gave us new courage.  It was a strange wild place.  The north wall of the can&tilde;on leaned far over the channel, overhanging considerably, while the south wall sloped back about the same, making the wall nearly parallel, and like a huge crevice descending into the mountain from above in a sloping direction.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We decided to try to get the confident little mule over this obstruction,  Gathering all the loose rocks we could we piled them up against the south wall, beginning some distance below, putting up all those in the bed of the stream and throwing down others from narrow shelves above we built a sort of inclined plane along the walls gradually rising till we were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>I tell you, friends, it was a trying moment.  It seemed to be weighed down with all the trails and hardships of many months.  It seemed to be the time when helpless women and innocent children hung on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>It was the work of a little while to transfer the load up the precipice, and pack the mule again, when we proceeded.  Around behind some rocks only a little distance beyond this place we found a small willow bush and enough good water for a camp.  This was a strange can&tilde;on.  The sun never shown down to the bottom in the fearful place where the little mule climbed up, and the rocks had a peculiar yellow color.  In getting our provisions up the precipice, Rogers went below and fastened the rope while I pulled them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>We had walked two days without water, and we were wonderfully refreshed as we found it here.  The way up this can&tilde;on was very rough and the bed full of sharp broken rocks in loose pieces which cut through the bottoms of our mocassins and left us with bare feet upon the acute points and edges.  I took off one of my buckskin leggins, and gave it to Rogers, and with the other one for myself we fixed the mocassins with them as well as we could, which enabled us to go ahead, but I think if our feet had been shod with steel those sharp rocks would have cut through.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Starting early we made the summit about noon, and from here we could see the place where we found a water hole and camped the first night after we left the wagons.  Down the steep can&tilde;on we turned, the same one in which we had turned back with the wagons, and over the sharp broken pieces of volcanic rock that formed our only footing we hobbled along with sore and tender feet.  We had to watch for the smoothest place for every step, and then moved only with the greatest difficulty.  The Indians could have caught us easily if they had been around for we must keep our eyes on the ground constantly and stop if we looked up and around.  But we at last got down and camped on some spot where we had set out twenty-five days before to seek the settlements.  Here was the same little water hole in the sand plain, and the same strong sulphur water which we had to drink the day we left.  The mule was turned loose dragging the same piece of rawhide she had attached to her when we purchased her, and she ranged and searched <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>There was no sign that any one had been here during our absence, and if the people had gone to hunt a way out, they must either have followed the Jayhawker's trail or some other one.  We were much afraid that they might have fallen victims to the Indians.  Remaining in camp so long it was quite likely they had been discovered by them and it was quite likely they had been murdered for the sake of the oxen and camp equipage.  It might be that we should find the hostiles waiting for us when we reached the appointed camping place, and it was small show for two against a party.  Our mule and her load would be a great capture for them.  We talked a great deal and said a great many things at that camp fire for we knew we were in great danger, and we had many doubts about the safety of our people, that would soon be decided, and whether for joy or sorrow we could not tell.</P>
107.sgm:<P>From this place, as we walked along, we had a wagon road to follow, in soft sand, but not a sign of a human footstep could we see, as we marched toward this, the camp of the last hope.  We had the greatest fears the people had given up our return and started out for themselves and that we should follow on, only to find them dead or dying.  My pen fails me as I try to tell the feelings and thoughts of this trying hour.  I can never hope to do so, but if the reader can place himself in my place, his imagination cannot form a picture that shall go beyond reality.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were some seven or eight miles along the road when I stopped to fix my mocassin while Rogers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>We marched toward camp like two Indians, silent and alert, looking out for dead bodies and live Indians, for really we more expected to find the camp devastated by those rascals than to find that it still contained our friends.  To the east we could plainly see what seemed to be a large salt lake with a bed that looked as if of the finest, whitest sand, but really a wonder of salt crystal.  We put the dreary steps steadily one forward of another, the little mule the only unconcerned one of the party, ever looking for an odd blade of grass, dried in the hot dry wind, but yet retaining nourishment, which she preferred.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About noon we came in sight of the wagons, still a long way off, but in the clear air we could make them out, and tell what they were, without being able to see anything more.  Half a mile was the distance between us and the camp before we could see very plainly, as they were in a little depression.  We could see the covers had been taken off, and this was an ominous sort of circumstance to us, for we feared the depredations of the Indians in retaliation for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We surely left seven wagons.  Now we could see only four and nowhere the sign of an ox.  They must have gone ahead with a small train, and left these four standing, after dismantling them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>No signs of life were anywhere about, and the thought of our hard struggles between life and death to go out and return, with the fruitless results that now seemed apparent was almost more than human heart could bear.  When should we know their fate?  When should we find their remains, and how learn of their sad history if we ourselves should live to get back again to settlements and life?  If ever two men were troubled, Rogers and I surely passed through the furnace.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We kept as low and as much out of sight as possible, trusting very much to the little mule that was ahead, for we felt sure she would detect danger in the air sooner than we, and we watched her closely to see how she acted.  She slowly walked along looking out for food, and we followed a little way behind, but still no decisive sign to settle the awful suspense in which we lived and suffered.  We became more and more convinced that they had taken the trail of the Jayhawkers, and we had missed them on the road, or they had perished before reaching the place where we turned from their trail.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One hundred yards now to the wagons and still no sign of life, no positive sign of death, though we looked carefully for both.  We fear that perhaps there are Indians in ambush, and with nervous irregular breathing we counsel what to do.  Finally Rogers suggested that he had two charges in his shot gun and I seven in the Coll's rifle, and that I fire one of mine and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>All were a little calmer soon, and Bennett soon found voice to say:--"I know you have found some place, for you have a mule," and Mrs. Bennett through her tears, looked staringly at us as she could hardly believe our coming back was a reality, and then exclaimed:--Good boys!  O, you have saved us all!  God bless you forever!  Such boys should never die!  "It was some time before they could talk without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>We told them it must be 250 miles yet to any part of California where we could live.  Then came the question;--`Can we take our wagons?"  "You will have to walk," was our answer, for no wagons could go over that unbroken road that we had traveled.  As rapidly and carefully as we could we told them of our journey, and the long distance between the water holes; that we had lost no time and yet had been twenty six days on the road; that for a long distance the country was about as dry and desolate as the region we had crossed east of this camp.  We told them of the scarcity of grass, and all the reasons that had kept us so long away from them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We inquired after the others whom we had left in camp when we went away, and we were told all they knew about them.  Hardly were we gone before they began to talk about the state of affairs which existed.  They said that as they had nothing to live on but their oxen it would be certain death to wait here and eat them up, and that it would be much better to move on a little every day and get nearer and nearer the goal before the food failed.  Bennett told them they would know surely about the way when the boys returned, and knowing the road would know how to manage and what to expect and work for, and could get out successfully.  But the general opinion of all but Mr. Bennett and Mr. Arcane and their families was, as expressed by one of them:--"If those boys ever get out of this cussed hole, they are d--d fools if they ever come back to help anybody."</P>
107.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Some did not stay more than a week after we were gone, but took their oxen and blankets and started on.  They could not be content to stay idly in camp with nothing to occupy their minds or bodies.  They could see that an ox when killed would feed them only a few days, and that they could not live long on them, and it stood them in hand to get nearer the western shore as the less distance the more hope while the meat lasted.  Bennett implored them to stay as he was sure we would come back, and if the most of them deserted him he would be exposed to the danger of the Indians, with no hope of a successful resistance against them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>But the most seemed to think that to stay was to die, and it would be better to die trying to escape than to set idly down to perish.  These men seemed to think their first duty was to save themselves, and if fortunate, help others afterward, so they packed their oxen and left in separate parties, the last some two weeks before.  They said that Capt. Culverwell went with the last party.  I afterward learned that he could not keep up with them and turned to go back to the wagons again, and perished, stretched out upon the sand as we saw him, dying all alone, with no one to transmit his last words to family or friends.  Not a morsel to eat, and the little canteen by his side empty.  A sad and lonely death indeed!</P>
107.sgm:<P>There was no end to the questions about the road we had to answer, for this was uppermost on their minds, and we tried to tell them and show them how we must get along on our return.  We told them of the great snow mountains we had seen all to the north of our road, and how deep the snow appeared to be, and how far west it extended.  We told them of the black and desolate ranges and buttes to the south, and of the great dry plains in the same direction.  We told <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<illus entity="a107-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LEAVING DEATH VALLEY.--THE MANLY PARTY ON THE MARCH AFTER LEAVING THEIR WAGONS.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>It was quite a treat to us to sleep again between good blankets, arranged by a woman's hand, and it was much better resting than the curled up, cramped position we had slept in while away, with only the poor protection of the half blanket for both of us, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We had plenty of water here, and there being no fear of the mule going astray we turned her loose.  As the party had seen no Indians during our absence we did not concern ourselves much about them.  At breakfast we cautioned them about eating too much bread, remembering, our own experience in that way.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They said they had about given up our coming back a week before, and had set about getting ready to try to move on themselves.  Bennett said he was satisfied that they never could have got through alone after what we had told them of the route and its dangers.  He said he knew it now that not one of them would have lived if they had undertaken the journey alone without knowledge of the way.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They had taken off the covers of the wagons to make them into houses for the oxen, so they could be used as pack animals.  The strong cloth had been cut into narrow strips and well made into breast straps and breeching, for the cattle were so poor and their hide so loose it was almost impossible to keep anything on their backs.  They had emptied the feathers out of the beds to get the cloth to use, and had tried to do everything that seemed best to do to get along without wagons.  The oxen came up for water, and the mule with them.  They looked better than when we left, but were still poor.  They had rested for some time and might feel able to go along willingly for a few days at least.  I was handy with the needle, and helped them to complete the harness for the oxen, while Bennett and John went to the lake to get a supply of salt to take along, a most necessary article with our fresh meat.  I looked around a little at our surroundings, and could see the snow still drifting over the peak of the snowy mountain as we had seen it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When Mrs. Bennet was ready to show me what to do on the cloth harness, we took a seat under the wagon, the only shady place and began work.  The great mountain, I have spoken of as the snow mountain has since been known as Telescope Peak, reported to be 11,000 feet high.  It is in the range running north and south and has no other peak so high.  Mrs. Bennett questioned me closely about the trip, and particularly if I had left anything out which I did not want her to know.  She said she saw her chance to ride was very slim, and she spoke particularly of the children, and that it was impossible for them to walk.  She said little Martha had been very sick since we had been gone, and that for many days they had expected her to die.  They had no medicine to relieve her and the best they could do was to select the best of the ox meat, and make a little soup of it and feed her, they had watched her carefully for many days and nights, expecting they would have to part with her any time and bury her little body in the sands.  Sometimes it seemed as if her breath would stop, but they had never failed in their attentions, and were at last rewarded by seeing her improve slowly, and even to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>She told me of their sufferings while we were gone, and said she often dreamed she saw us suffering fearfully for water, and lack of food and could only picture to herself as their own fate, that they must leave the children by the trail side, dead, and one by one drop out themselves in the same way.  She said she dreamed often of her old home where bread was plenty, and then to awake to find her husband and children starving was a severe trial indeed, and the contrast terrible.  She was anxious to get me to express an opinion as to whether I thought we could get the oxen down the falls where we had so much trouble.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I talked to her as encouragingly as I could, but she did not cheer up much and sobbed and wept over her work most all the time.  It was not possible to encourage her much, the outlook seemed so dark.  Mrs. Arcane sat under another wagon and said nothing, but she probably heard all we had to say, and did not look as if her hopes were any brighter.  Bennett and Rogers soon returned with a supply of salt and said the whole shore of the lake was a winrow of it, that could be shoveled up in enormous quantities.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now in a counsel of the whole, talked over the matter, and the way which seemed most promising.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Bennett had one old bridle ox called Old Crump, which had been selected to carry the children, because he was slow and steady.  How in the world do you expect it to keep the children on?--said I.  "Well"--said Bennett, with a sort of comical air, about the first relief from the sad line of thought that had possessed us all--"We have taken two strong hickory shirts, turned the sleeves inside, sewed up the necks, then sewed the two shirts together by the tail, and when these are placed on the ox they will make two pockets for the youngest children, and we think the two others will be able to cling to his back with the help of a band around the body of the ox to which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>From a piece of hide yet remaining John and I made ourselves some new mocassins, and were all ready to try the trip over our old trail for now the third time, and the last, we hoped.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bennett and Mrs. Arcane had taken our advice, and in cooking had not put too much of the flour or beans into the soup for the children and they had gotten along nicely, and even began to smile a little with satisfaction after a full meal.  They got along better than John and I did when we got hold of the first nutritions after our arrival on the other side.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We must leave everything here we can get along without.  No clothing except that on our backs.  Only a camp kettle in which to make soup, a tin cup for each one, and some knive, and spoons which each happen to have.  Each one had some sort of a canteen for water, which we must fill up at every opportunity and we decided to carry a shovel along, so we might bury the body of Capt. Culverwell, and shovel up a pile of sand at the falls to enable us to get the oxen over.  Every ox had a cloth halter on his head, so he might be led, or tied up at night when we had a dry camp, and they would most assuredly wander off if not secured.  Old Crump was chosen to lead the train, and Rogers was to lead him.  We had made an extra halter for this old fellow, and quite a long strip of bed ticking sewed into a strap to lead him by.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This packing buiness was a new idea, and a hard matter to get anything firmly fixed on their backs.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>We had made shoulder straps, hip straps, breast straps and breeching as the correct idea for a harness.  The only way we could fasten the band around the animals was for one to get on each side and pull it as tight as possible then tie a knot, as we had no buckles or ring in our harness.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The loads of the oxen consisted of blankets and bedding and a small, light tent of their sheeting about four by six feet in size.  We rose early and worked hard till about the middle of the forenoon getting all things ready.  They had been in a state of masterly inactivity so long in this one camp that they were anxious to leave it now forever.  Only in progress was there hope, and this was our last and only chance.  We must succeed or perish.  We loaded the animals from the wagons, and some of the oxen seemed quite afraid at this new way of carrying loads.  Old Crump was pretty steady, and so was the one with the two water kegs one on each side but the other oxen did not seem to think they needed any blankets on these warm days.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mrs. Arcane was from a city, and had fondly conveyed thus far some articles of finery, of considerable value and much prized.  She could not be persuaded to leave them here to deck the red man's wife, and have her go flirting over the mountains with, and as they had little weight she concluded she would wear them and this perhaps would preserve them So she got out her best hat and trimmed it up with extra ribbon leaving some with quite long ends to stream out behind.  Arcane brought up his ox Old Brigham, for he had been purchased at Salt Lake and named in honor of the great Mormon Saint.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mrs. Arcane also dressed her little boy Charlie up in his best suit of clothes, for she thought they might as well wear them out as to throw them away.  She <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Bennett and Arcane were emphatic in their belief and expressions that we would succeed.  "I know it--Dont you Sally?" said Bennett very cheerfully, but after all Mrs. Bennett could not answer quite as positively, but said "I hope so."--Mrs. Bennett's maiden name was Sarah Dilley, which I mention here as I may otherwise forget it afterward.  She realized that hers was no easy place to ride, that they would have hard fare at best, and that it must be nearly or quite a month before they could reach a fertile spot on which to place her feet.  One could easily see that the future looked quite a little dark to her, on account of her children, as a mother naturally would.</P>
107.sgm:<P>High overhead was the sun, and very warm indeed on that day in the fore part of February 1850, when the two children were put on Old Crump to see if he would let them ride.  The two small children were placed in the pockets on each side, face outward, and they could stand or sit as they should choose.  George and Melissa were placed on top and given hold of the strap that was to steady them in their place.  I now led up Mrs. Bennett's ox and Mr. Bennett helped his wife to mount the animal, on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Rogers led the march with his ox; Bennett and I started the others along, and Arcane followed with Old Crump and the children.  Bennett and Arcane took off their hats and bade the old camp good bye.  The whole procession moved, and we were once more going toward our journey's end we hoped.  The road was sandy and soft, the grade practically level, and everything went well for about four miles, when the pack on one of the oxen near the lead got loose and and turned over to one side, which he no sooner saw thus out of position, then he tried to get away from it by moving sidewise.  Not getting clear of the objectionable load in this way he tried to kick it off, and thus really got his foot in it, making matters worse instead of better.  Then he began a regular waltz and bawled at the top of his voice in terror.  Rogers tried to catch him but his own animal was so frisky that he could not hold him and do much else, and the spirit of fear soon began to be communicated to the others and soon the whole train seemed to be taken crazy.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They would jump up high and then come down, sticking their fore feet as far as possible into the sand after which, with elevated tails, and terrible plunges would kick and thrash and run till the packs came off, when they stopped apparently quite satisfied.  Mrs. Bennett slipped off her ox as quick as she could, grabbed her baby from the pocket on Old Crump, and shouting to Melissa and George to jump, got her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bennett, carrying her baby and walking around to keep out of the way, got very much exhausted, and sat down on the sand, her face as red as if the blood were about to burst through the skin, and perspiring freely.  We carried a blanket and spread down for her while we gathered in the scattered baggage.  Then the oxen were got together again, and submitted to being loaded up again as quietly as if nothing had happened.  Myself and the women had to mend the harness considerably, and Arcane and his ox went back for some water, while Rogers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We put the camp kettle on two stones, built a fire, put in some beans and dried meat cut very fine, which cooked till Arcane came with more water, which was added, and thickened with a little of the unbolted flour, making a pretty good and nutritious soup which we all enjoyed.  We had to secure the animals, for there was neither grass nor water for them, and we thought they might not be in so good spirits another day.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We had little trouble in packing up again in the morning, and concluded to take a nearer route to the summit, so as to more quickly reach the water holes where Rogers and I camped on our first trip over the country.  This would be a hard rocky road on its course leading up a small rocky can&tilde;on, hard on the fect of the oxen, so they had to be constantly urged on, as they seemed very tender footed.  They showed no disposition to go on a spree again and so far as keeping the loads on, behaved very well indeed.  The women did not attempt to ride but followed on, close after Old Crump and the children who required almost constant attention, for in their cramped position they made many cries and complaints.  To think of it, two children cramped up in narrow pockets, in which they could not turn around, jolted and pitched around over the rough road, made them objects of great suffering to themselves and anxiety and labor on the part of the mothers.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bennett said she would carry her baby if she could, but her own body was so heavy for her strength that she could not do it.  Bennett, Rogers and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When the women reached camp we had blankets already spread down for them, on which they cast themselves, so tired as to be nearly dead.  They were so tired and discouraged they were ready to die, for they felt they could not endure many days, like this.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We told them this was the first day and they were not used to exercise therefore more easily tired than after they became a little used to it.  We told them not to be discouraged, for we knew every water hole, and all the road over which we would pilot them safely.  They would not consent to try riding again, after their circus experience, and Mrs. Arcane said her limbs ached so much she did not think she could even go on the next day.  They had climbed over the rocks all day, and were lame and sore, and truely thought they could not endure such another day.  The trail had been more like stairs than a road in its steep ascent, and our camp was at a narrow pass in the range.  The sky was clear and cloudless, as it had been for so long for thus far upon this route no rain had fallen, and only once a little snow, that came to us like manna in the desert.  For many days we had been obliged to go without water both we and our cattle, and over the route we had come we had not seen any signs of a white man's presence older than our own.  I have no doubt we were the first to cross the valley in this location, a visible sink hole in the desert.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>The women did not recover sufficient energy to remove their clothing, but slept as they were, and sat up and looked around with uncombed hair in the morning, perfect pictures of dejection.  We let them rest as long as we could, for their swollen eyes and stiffened joints told how sadly unprepared they were to go forward at once.  The sun came out early and made it comfortable, while a cool and tonic breeze, came down from the great snow mountain the very thing to brace them up after a thorough rest.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The slope to the east was soon met by a high ridge and between this and the main mountain was a gentle slope scattered over with sage brush, and a few little stools of bunch grass here and there between.  This gave our oxen a little food and by dipping out the water from the holes and letting them fill up again we managed to get water for camp use and to give the animals nearly all they wanted.</P>
107.sgm:<P>While waiting for the women Bennett and Arcane wanted to go out and get a good view of the great snowy mountain I had told them so much about.  The best point of view was near our camp, perhaps three or four hundred yards away, and I went with them.  This place where we now stood was lower than the mountains either north or south, but were difficult to climb, and gave a good view in almost every direction, and there, on the back bone of the ridge we had a grand outlook, but some parts of it brought back doleful recollections.  They said they had traveled in sight of that mountain for months and seen many strange formations, but never one like this, as developed from this point.  It looked to be seventy-five miles to its base, and to the north and west there was a succession of snowy peaks that seemed to have no end.  Bennett and Arcane said they never before supposed America contained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>West and south it seemed level, and low, dark and barren buttes rose from the plain, but never high enough to carry snow, even at this season of the year.  I pointed out to them the route we were to follow, noting the prominent points, and it could be traced for fully one hundred and twenty-five miles from the point on which we stood.  This plain, with its barren ranges and buttes is now known as the Mojave Desert.  This part of the view they seemed to study over, as if to fix every point and water hole upon their memory.  We turned to go to camp, but no one looked back on the country we had come over since we first made out the distant snow peak, now so near us, on November 4th 1849.  The only butte in this direction that carried snow was the one where we captured the Indian and where the squashes were found.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The range next east of us across the low valley was barren to look upon as a naked, single rock.  There were peaks of various heights and colors, yellow, blue firery red and nearly black.  It looked as if it might sometime have been the center of a mammoth furnace.  I believe this range is known as the Coffin's Mountains.  It would be difficult to find earth enough in the whole of it to cover a coffin.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Just as we were ready to leave and return to camp we took off our hats, and then overlooking the scene of so much trial, suffering and death spoke the thought uppermost saying:--" <HI REND="italics">Good bye Death Valley</HI>
107.sgm:!" then faced away and made our steps toward camp.  Even after this in speaking of this long and narrow valley over which we had crossed into its nearly central part, and on the edge of which the lone camp was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Many accounts have been given to the world as to the origin of the name and by whom it was thus designated but ours were the first visible footsteps, and we the party which named it the saddest and most dreadful name that came to us first from its memories.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>Out of Death Valley we surely were.  To Rogers and I, the case seemed hopeful, for we had confidence in the road and believed all would have power to weather difficulties, but the poor women--it is hard to say what compliants and sorrows were not theirs.  They seemed to think they stood at death's door, and would about as soon enter, as to take up a farther march over the black, desolate mountains and dry plains before them, which they considered only a dreary vestibule to the dark door after all.  They even had an idea that the road was longer than we told them, and they never could live to march so far over the sandy, rocky roads.  The first day nearly satisfied them that it was no use to try, Rogers and I counted up the camps we ought to reach each day and in this way could pretty near convince them of time that would be consumed in the trip.  We encouraged them in every way we could; told them we had better get along a little every day and make ourselves a little nearer the promised land, and the very exercise would soon make them stronger and able to make a full day's march.</P>
107.sgm:<P>John and I told them we felt in much better spirits now than we did when we set out alone, and now that nothing but the arrows of an Indian could stop us.  We said to them.  "We are not going to leave you two ladies out here to die for there is not a sign of a grave to put you in,--"and it was a pretty tough place to think of making one.  We told told them of the beautiful flowery hillsides over the other side and begged them to go over there to die, as it would be so much better and easier to perform the last sad rites <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<illus entity="a107-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OXEN GET FRISKY.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>The route was first along the foot of the high peak, over bare rocks and we soon turned south somewhat so as to enter the can&tilde;on leading down to the falls.  The bottom of this was thick with broken rock, and the oxen limped and picked out soft places about as bad as the women did.  A pair of mocassins would not last long in such rocks and we hoped to get out of them very soon.  Rogers and I hurried along, assisting Arcane and his party as much as we could, while Bennett staid behind and assisted the women as much as possible, taking their arms, and by this means they also reached camp an hour behind the rest.</P>
107.sgm:<P>A kettle of hot steaming soup, and blankets all spread out on which to rest, was the work Rogers and I had done to prepare for them, and they sank down on the beds completely exhausted.  The children cried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The first thing Bennett and Arcane did was to look round and see the situation at the falls, and see if the obstacle was enough to stop our progress, or if we must turn back and look for a better way.  They were in some doubt about it, but concluded to try and get the animals over rather than to take the time to seek another pass, which might take a week of time.  We men all went down to the foot of the fall, and threw out all the large rocks, then piled up all the sand we could scrape together with the shovel, till we had quite a pile of material that would tend to break a fall.  We arranged everything possible for a forced passage in the morning, and the animals found a few willows to browse and a few bunches of grass here and there, which gave them a little food, while the spring supplied them with enough water to keep them from suffering with thirst.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Early in the morning we took our soup hastily and with ropes lowered our luggage over the small precipice, then the children, and finally all the ropes were combined to make a single strong one about thirty feet long.  They urged one of the oxen up to the edge of the falls, put the rope around his horns, and threw down the end to me, whom they had stationed below.  I was told to pull hard when he started so that he might not light on his head and break his neck.  We felt this was a desperate undertaking, and we fully expected to lose some of our animals, but our case was critical and we must take some chances.  Bennett stood on one side of the ox, and Arcane on the other, while big Rogers was placed in the rear to give a regular Tennessee boost when the word was given.  "Now for it," said Bennett, and as I braced out on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Bennett and Arcane assisted their wives down along the little narrow ledge which we used in getting up, keeping their faces toward the rocky wall, and feeling carefully for every footstep.  Thus they worked along and landed safely by the time we had the animals ready for a march.  We had passed without disaster, the obstacle we most feared, and started down the rough can&tilde;on, hope revived, and we felt we should get through.  After winding around among the great boulders for a little while we came to the two horses we had left behind, both dead and near together.  We pointed to the carcasses, and told them those were the horses we brought for the women to ride, and that is the way they were cheated out of their passage.  The bodies of the animals had not been touched by bird or beast.  The can&tilde;on was too deep and dark for either wolves or buzzards to enter, and nothing alive had been seen by us in the shape of wild game of any sort.  Firearms were useless here except for defence against Indians, and we expected no real trouble from them.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>From what we could see, it was my opinion that no general rain ever fell in that region.  There was some evidence that water had at times flowed down them freely after cloud bursts, or some sudden tempest, but the gravel was so little worn that it gave no evidence of much of a stream.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We hurried on as rapidly as possible so as to get into the Jayhawker's beaten trail which would be a little easier to follow.  When we reached the lowest part of the valley we had to turn south to get around a little, slow running stream of salt water, that moved north and emptied into a Salt Lake.  No source of the stream could be seen from this point, but when we reached a point where we could cross, we had a smooth, hard clay bed to march over.  It seemed to have been, some day, a bed of mortar, but now baked hard, and the hoofs of the oxen dented into it no more than half an inch.  On our left hand was a perpendicular cliff, along which we traveled for quite a little way.  The range of mountains now before us to cross was black, nothing but rocks, and extremely barren, having no water in it that we knew of, so when we reached the summit we camped, tied all our animals to rocks, where they lay down and did not rise till morning.  The women were so tired they were over two hours late, and we had the fire built, the soup cooked and the beds made.  As we did not stop at noon all were very hungry, and ate with a relish.  The poor animals had to go without either grass or water.  When Old Crump and the party came in the men were carrying the babies, and their wives were clinging to their arms, scarcely able to stand.  When they reached the beds they fell at full length on them, saying their feet and limbs ached like the tooth ache.  It seemed to be best for them to rest a little before eating.  Mrs. Bennett said that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Rogers and I had the kettle boiling early, and put in the last of the meat, and nearly all that was left of the flour.  At the next camp an ox must be killed.  Just as it was fairly light I went about 200 yards south where the dead body of Mr. Fish lay, just as he died more than a month before.  The body had not been disturbed and looked quite natural.  He was from Oscaloosa, Iowa.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The folks arose very reluctantly this morning, and appeared with swollen eyes and uncombed hair, for there was no means of making a toilet, without a drop of water, except what we had used in getting breakfast.  We set the soup kettle near the foot of the bed so the women could feed the children and themselves.  Now as we loaded the oxen, it was agreed that Rogers and I should go ahead with all but Old Crump, and get in camp as soon as possible, and they were to follow on as best they could.  There was a little water left in the canteens of Bennett and Arcane, to be given only to the children, who would cry when thirsty, the very thing to make them feel the worst.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were to kill an ox when we reached camp, and as each of the men had an equal number on the start each was to furnish one alternately and no disputing about whose were better or stronger, in any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Our road now led down the western slope of the mountain, and loose, hard, broken rocks were harder on the feet of our animals than coming up, and our own mocassins were wearing through.  The cattle needed shoes as well as we.  Any one who has never tried it can imagine how hard it is to walk with tender feet over broken rock.  It was very slow getting along at the best, and the oxen stumbled dreadfully in trying to protect their sore feet.  At the foot of the mountain we had several miles of soft and sandy road.  The sun shone very hot, and with no water we suffered fearfully.  A short way out in the sandy valley we pass again the grave of Mr. Isham, where he had been buried by his friends.  He was from Rochester, N. Y.  He was a cheerful, pleasant man, and during the forepart of the journey used his fiddle at the evening camps to increase the merriment of his jolly companions.  In those days we got no rain, see no living animals of any kind except those of our train, see not a bird nor insect, see nothing green except a very stunted sage, and some dwarf bushes.  We now know that the winter of 1849--50 was one of the wettest ever seen in California, but for some reason or other none of the wet clouds ever came to this portion of the State to deposit the most scattering drops of moisture.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Quite a long way from the expected camp the oxen snuffed the moisture, and began to hurry towards it with increased speed.  A little while before it did not seem as if they had ambition enough left to make a quick move, but as we approached the water those which had no packs fairly trotted in their haste to get a drink.  This stream was a very small one, seeping out from a great pile of rocks, and maintaining itself till it reached the sands, where it disappeared <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As soon as we could get the harness off the oxen, we went to look for our little buried sack of wheat, which we were compelled to leave and hide on our way out.  We had hidden it so completely, that it took us quite a little while to strike its bed but after scratching with our hands awhile, we hit the spot, and found it untouched.  Although the sand in which it was buried seemed quite dry, yet the grain had absorbed so much moisture from it, that the sack was nearly bursting.  It was emptied on a blanket, and proved to be still sound and sweet.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our first work now was to kill an ox and get some meat to cook for those who were coming later.  We got the kettle over boiling with some of the wheat in it, for the beans were all gone.  We killed the ox saving the blood to cook.  Cutting the meat all off the bones, we had it drying over a fire as soon as possible, except what we needed for this meal and the next.  Then we made a smooth place in the soft sand on which to spread the blankets, the first good place we had found to sleep since leaving Death Valley.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The next job was to make mocassins for ourselves and for the oxen, for it was plain they could not go on another day barefooted.  We kept busy indeed, attending the fires under the meat and under the kettle, besides our shoemaking, and were getting along nicely about sundown, when Old Christian Crump appeared in sight followed by the women and the rest of the party.  The women were just as tired as ever and dropped down on the blankets the first thing.  "How many such days as this can we endure?"--they said.  We had them count the days gone by, and look around to see the roughest part of the road was now behind <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The morning came, bright and pleasant, as all of them were, and just warm enough for comfort in the part of the day.  The women were as usual, and their appearance would remind one quite strongly of halfdrowned hens which had not been long out of trouble.  Hair snarled, eyes red, nose swollen, and out of fix generally.  They did not sleep well so much fatigued, for they said they lived over their hard days in dreams at night, and when they would close their eyes and try to go to sleep, the visions would seem to come to them half waking and they could not rest.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There was now before us a particularly bad stretch of the country as it would probably take us four or five days to get over it, and there was only one water hole in the entire distance.  This one was quite salt, so much so that on our return trip the horses refused to drink it, and the little white one died next day.  Only water for one day's camp could be carried with us, and that was for ourselves alone and not for the animals.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When the mocassins were finished in the morning we began to get our cattle together when it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Immediately south of this camp now known as Providence Springs, is the salt lake to which Rogers and I went on the first trip and were so sadly disappointed in finding the water unfit to use.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As soon as ready we started up the can&tilde;on, following the trail made by the Jayhawkers who had proceeded us, and by night had reached the summit, but passed beyond, a short distance down the western slope, where we camped in a valley that gave us good large sage brush for our fires, and quite a range for the oxen without their getting out of sight.  This being at quite a high elevation we could see the foot as well as the top, of the great snow mountain, and had a general good view of the country.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This proved to be the easiest day's march we had experienced, and the women complained less than on any othernight since our departure.  Their path had been comparatively smooth, and with the new mocassins their feet had been well protected, they had come through pretty nicely.  We told them they looked better, and if they would only keep up good courage they would succeed and come out all right <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The next day we had a long can&tilde;on to go down, and in it passed the dead body of the beautiful white mare Rogers had taken such a fancy to.  The body had not decomposed, nor had it been disturbed by any bird or beast.  Below this point the bed of the can&tilde;on was filled with great boulders, over which it was very difficult to get the oxen along.  Some of them had lost their mocassins and had to suffer terribly over the rocks.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Camp was made at the salt water hole, and our wheat and meat boiled in it did not soften and get tender as it did in fresh water.  There was plenty of salt grass above; but the oxen did not eat it any more than the horses did, and wandered around cropping a bite of the bitter brush once in awhile, and looking very sorry.  This was near the place where Rogers and I found the piece of ice which saved our lives.  The women did not seriously complain when we reached this camp, but little Charley Arcane broke out with a bad looking rash all over his body and as he cried most of the time it no doubt smarted and pained him like a mild burn.  Neither his mother nor any one else could do anything for him to give him any relief.  We had no medicines, and if he or any one should die, all we could do would be to roll the body in a blanket and cover it with a light covering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>From this camp to the next water holes at the base of the great snow mountain, it was at least 30 miles, level as to surface, and with a light ascending grade.  The Jayhawkers had made a well marked trail, and it it was quite good walking.  The next camp was a dry one, both for ourselves and the oxen, nothing but dry brush for them, and a little dried meat for ourselves, but for all this the women did not complain so very much.  They were getting use to the work and grew stronger with the exercise.  They had followed Old Crump and the children every day with the canteens of water and a little dried meat to give them if they cried too much with hunger, and Arcane had led his ox day after day with a patience that was remarkable, and there was no bad temper shown by any one.  This was the way to do, for if there were any differencse, there was no tribunal to settle them by.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In all this desert travel I did not hear any discontent and serious complaint, except in one case, and that was at the Jayhawker's camp, where they burned their wagons at the end of the wagon road, in Death Valley.  Some could not say words bad enough to express their contempt, and laid all the trouble of salt water to Lot's wife.  Perhaps she was in a better position to stand the cursing than any of the party present.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The next day we reached the water holes at the place where Rogers and I stole up to camp fire in the evening, supposing it to be Indians, but finding there Capt. Doty and his mess, a part of the Jayhawker's band.  By dipping carefully from these holes they filled again, and thus, although there was no flow from them we gradually secured what water we needed for the camp, which was a small amount after so long a time without.  There was some low brush <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We had now our barren can&tilde;on to go down, and right here was the big trail coming down from the north, which we took and followed.  We said all these good things about the road, and encouraged the people all we could to keep in good spirits and keep moving.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>There was some pretty good management to be exercised still.  The oxen were gradually growing weaker, and we had to kill the weakest one every time, for if the transportation of our food failed, we should yet be open to the danger of starvation.  As it was, the meat on their frames was very scarce, and we had to use the greatest economy to make it last and waste nothing.  We should now have to kill one of our oxen every few days, as our other means of subsistance had been so completely used up.  The women contracted a strange dislike to this region and said they never wanted to see any part of it again.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As the sun showed its face over the great sea of mountains away to the east of Death Valley, and it seemed to rise very early for winter season we packed up and started west on the big trail.  Rogers and I took the oxen and mule and went on, leaving the others to accompany Old Crump and his little charges.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Rogers and I made camp when we reached the proper place which was some distance from the mountain, on a perfectly level plain where there was no water, no grass, nothing but sage brush would grow on the dry and worthless soil.  We let the oxen go and eat as much of this as they chose, which was very little and only enough to keep them from absolute starvation.  The great trail had a branch near here that turned north, and went up a ravine that would seem to reach the snow in a little while.  This was believed to be impassable at this time of year.  This route is known as Walker's Pass, leading over a comparatively low ridge, and coming out the south fork of the Kern River.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We made our camp here because it was as long a march as the women could make, and, for a dry one, was as good a location as we could find.  The cool breeze came down from the snow to the north of us, not so very many miles away, and after a little it became uncomfortably cold.  We gathered greasewood bushes and piled them up to make a wind-break for our heads.  The oxen, even, would come and stand around the fire, seeming greatly to enjoy the warm smoke, which came from burning the greasewood brush, which by the way, burns about the best of any green wood.  When we were ready to lie down we tied the animals to bunches of brush, and they lay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>To the north of us, a few miles away we could see some standing, columns of rock, much reminding one of the great stone chimney of the boiler house at Stanford Jr., University; not quite so trim and regular in exterior appearance, but something in that order.  We reckon the only students in the vicinity would be lizards.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When the women arrived in camp they were very tired, but encouraged themselves that they were much nearer the promised land than they were in the morning.  Mrs. Bennett said she was very careful never to take a step backward, and to make every forward one count as much as possible.  "That's a good resolution, Sally," said Mr Bennett.  "Stick to it and we will come out by and bye."</P>
107.sgm:<P>From near this camp we have a low range of mountains to cross, a sort of spur or offshoot of the great snow mountain that reaches out twenty miles or more to the southeast' and its extremity divides away into what seems from our point of view a level plain.  We had attained quite an elevation without realizing it, so gradual had been the ascent, and our course was now down a steep hillside and into a deep can&tilde;on.  In its very bottom we found a small stream of water only a few yards long, and then it sank into the sands.  Not a spear of grass grew there, and if any had grown it had been eaten by the cattle which had gone before.  This was the same place, where Rogers and I had overtaken the advance portion of the Jayhawkers when we were on our outward trip in search of relief, and where some of the older men were so discouraged that they gave us their home adresses in Illinois so that we could notify their friends of their precarious situation, and if they were never otherwise heard from they could be pretty sure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The scenes of this camp on that occasion made so strong an impression on my memory that I can never forget it.  There were poor dependent fellows without a morsel to eat except such bits of poor meat as they could beg from those who were fortunate enough to own oxen.  Their tearful pleadings would soften a heart of stone.  We shared with some of them even when we did not know the little store upon our backs would last us through.  Our oxen here had water to drink, but nothing more.  It might be a little more comfortable to drink and starve, than both choke and starve, but these are no very pleasant prospects in either one.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Both ourselves and the oxen were getting barefoot and our feet very tender.  The hill we had just come down was very rough and rocky and our progress very slow, every step made in a selected spot.  We could not stop here to kill an ox and let the remainder of them starve, but must push on to where the living ones could get a little food.  We fastened the oxen and the mule to keep them from wandering, and slept as best we could.  The women and children looked worse than for some time, and could not help complaining.  One of the women held up her foot and the sole was bare and blistered.  She said they ached like toothache.  The women had left their combs in the wagons, and their hair was getting seriously tangled.  Their dresses were getting worn off pretty nearly to their knees, and showed the contact with the ground that sometimes could not be avoided.  They were in a sad condition so far as toilet and raiment were concerned.  Life was in the balance, however, and instead of talking over sad things, we talked of the time when we would reach the little babbling brook <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<illus entity="a107-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PULLING THE OXEN DOWN THE PRECIPICE.</P>
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107.sgm:where Rogers and I took such long draughts of clear, sweet water and the waiter at our dinner gave us the choice of <HI REND="italics">Crow, Hawk</HI>
107.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">Quail</HI>
107.sgm:<P>In the morning we were off again down the can&tilde;on, limping some as we trod its coarse gravelly bed with our tender feet and stiffened joints, but getting limbered up a little after a bit, and enduring it pretty well.  We set out to try to reach the bunch of willows out on the level plain, where the cattle could get some water and grass, but night overtook us at the mouth of the can&tilde;on, and we were forced to go into camp.  This can&tilde;on is now called Red Can&tilde;on.  This was on an elevated plain, with a lake near by, but as we had been so often deceived by going to the lake for water, and finding them salt in every instance, or poison on account of strong alkali, we did not take the trouble to go and try this one.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Near us was some coarse grass and wet ground where we found water enough for our moderate use, and the oxen, by perseverance, could get something to eat and drink.  After supper we were out of meat and we would have to kill an ox to get some food for breakfast.  In the night a storm came on, much to our surprise, for we had seen none since the night on the mountain east of Death Valley more than two months before.  We tried to fix up a shelter to protect the children and ourselves, but were not very successful.  We tried to use our guns for tent poles, but could not keep them in place.  We laid down as close as pigs in cold weather, and covered up as best we could, but did not keep dry, and morning found us wet to the skin, cold and shivering.  We gathered big sage brush for a fire in the morning, and the tracks of our nearly bare feet could be plainly seen in the snow which lay like a blanket awhile over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I staid in camp to keep it till they could get through to the willows and some one to come back with the mule to carry forward the portion of meat that could not be taken at first.  We intended to dry it at the willows, and then we could carry it along as daily food over the wide plain we had yet to cross.  Having carried the meat forward, we made a rack of willows and dried it over the fire, making up a lot of mocassins for the barefooted ones while we waited.  We were over most of the rocky road, we calculated that our shoemaking would last us through.  This was a very pleasant camp.  The tired ones were taking a rest.  No one needed it more than our women and children, who were tired nearly out.  They were in much better condition to endure their daily hardships than when they started out, and a little rest would make them feel quite fresh again.  They understood that this was almost on the western edge of this desert country and this gave them good hope and courage.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This wonderful spot in the level plain, with a spring of pure water making an oasis of green willows and grass has been previously spoken of as:--"A spring of good water, and a little willow patch in a level desert away from any hill."  In all our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Arcane's boy Charley still suffered from his bogus measles or whatever else his disorder might be, and Bennett's little Martha grew more quiet and improved considerably in health, though still unable to walk, and still abdominally corpulent.  The other two children George and Melissa seemed to bear up well and loved to get off and walk in places where the trail was smooth and level.  Bennett, Arcane and Old Crump usually traveled with the same party as the women, and as each of them had a small canteen to carry water, they could attend to the wants of the children and keep them from worrying and getting sick from fretfulness.  They often carried the two younger ones on their backs to relieve and rest them from their cramped position on the ox.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Arcane used to say he expected the boys--meaning Rogers and I--would try to surprise the party by letting them get very near the house before they knew how near they were.  "Be patient Mr. Arcane," said we, we can tell you just how many camps there must be before we reach it, and we won't fool you or surprise you in any way.  "Well," said he.  "I was almost in hopes you would, for I like to be disappointed in that way."  "What do you think the folks will say when we tell them that our little mule packed most of the meat of an ox four miles from one camp to another?"  "What will they say when we tell them that the oxen were so poor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>They all felt more like talking; for we were thus far safe and sound, and though there was a desperate struggle of seventy-five miles or more, from this place to the next water in the foot-hills.  Possibly the snow storms had left a little in some of the pools, but we made no calculations on any.  The promised land we had so steadily been approaching, and now comparatively so near, gave us great hope, which was better than food and drink to give us strength.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There were surely two camps between this and the little pond John and I found, among the Cabbage trees, and not more than six by ten feet square.  As we worked away at our foot-wear we talked more in an hour than we had in a whole day before.  We were slowly leaving Death Valley behind us with its sad memories and sufferings.  We were leaving behind the dead bodies of several who had traveled with us and been just as strong and hopeful as we.  We had left behind us all in our possession in that terrible spot, and simply with our lives we hoped to escape, and trust to Providence and humanity on the other side.  Arcane now admitted that they could not have got along half as well, if we had not gone ahead and looked out the land.  It was such a gain to know exactly where the next water hole was, so it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It seems quite a strange occurrence that the only two storms we had since we turned westward on this route, Nov. 4th, were snow storms, and that both had come while we were asleep, so that all our days were cloudless.  Sometimes the sun was uncomfortably warm even in the heart of the winter.  One would have naturally expected that the great rainfall all over the California coast in the winter of 1849--50, and the deep snows that came in the Sierra Nevada mountains the same winter, would have extended southerly the few hundred miles that separated the two places.  Modern science has shown the tracks of the storms and partially explains the reasors for this dry and barren nature of this region.  When rains do come they are so out of the regular order, that they are called cloud-bursts or waterspouts, and the washes in the can&tilde;ons and their mouths show how great has been the volume of water that sometimes rushed down the slope.  If clouds at a warm or moderate temperature float against these snow peaks all the water they contain is suddenly precipitated.  The country is an arid one and unless wealth should appear in the shape of mines, the country can never be inhabited.  We considered ourselves very fortunate in finding the little pools and holes of water which kept us alive.  It was not very good drinking water, but to us thirsty folks it was a blessing and we never passed it by on account of any little stagnent bitter taste.  Salt water we could not drink of course, though we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We were as well prepared next morning as possible for a move, and the long walk before us, the last one between us and the fertile land.  They all talked of how delighted they would be to see once more a running brook, green grass and trees, and such signs of life as they had seen and been used to in the good land they had left behind.  The women said they could endure the march of four or five days, if when all over, they could sleep off the terrible fatigue and for once drink all the pure sweet water they could desire.  No more forced marches.  No more grey road, stretching out its dusty miles as far as the eye could reach.  The ladies thought the oxen would be as happy as themselves, and the little mule, the most patient one of the whole train deserved a life of ease for her valuable services.  This little black, one-eyed lady wandered here and there at will seeking for grass, but never going astray or getting far enough from the track to alarm us in the least.  She seldom drank much water, was always ready, never got footsore, and seemed made expressly for such a life and for such a desert.</P>
107.sgm:<P>A good kettleful of soup for breakfast, dried meat fixed in packages, kegs and canteens filled with water, and we were ready for an advance.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There is one less ox to lead, and very little load for those we have, still the load is all such poor weak fellows ought to bear.  Old Crump was not thus favored by a gradually lightened load.  He bore the same four children every day, faithfully, carefully, with never a stumble nor fall, as though fully aware of the precious nature of his burden.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In this new march John and I took the oxen and pushed on as usual, leaving the families to follow on, at a slower pace, the trail we made.  The trail was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Our first night's camp was out on the barren waterless plain, now known as the Mojave Desert.  There were no shrubs large enough to make a fire of, and nothing to tie our cattle to, so we fastened all our animals together to keep them from scattering and getting lost.  We ate a little dry meat and drank sparingly of the water, for our scanty stock was to last us another day, when we might reach prospective water holes.  Starting early, John and I took all but Old Crump and the other travelers, and hurried on to try and find the water holes as early as possible.  We, as well as the oxen were very dry, for we left all the water we had with the party, for the children, for they cannot endure the thirst as the older people can.  We reached the camping place before night.  Quite a time before we reached it, the cattle seemed to scent the water and quickened their pace, so we were confident it had not dried up.  We got ahead of the oxen and kept there until we reached the little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It often occurs to me that many may read incredulously when I speak of our party eating the entire flesh of an ox in four or five days.  To such I will say that one cannot form an idea how poor an ox will get when nearly starved so long.  Months had passed since they had eaten a stomachful of good nutritous food.  The animals walked slowly with heads down nearly tripping themselves up with their long, swinging legs.  The skin loosely covered the bones, but all the flesh and muscles had shrunk down to the smallest space.  The meat was tough and stringy as basswood bark, and tasted strongly of bitter sage brush the cattle had eaten at almost every camp.  At a dry camp the oxen would lie down and grate their teeth, but they had no cud to chew.  It looked almost merciless to shoot one down for food, but there was no alternative.  We killed our poor brute servants o save ourselves.  Our cattle found a few bunches out among the trees at this camp and looked some better in the morning.  They had secured plenty of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Young Charlie Arcane seemed to grow worse rather than better.  His whole body was red as fire, and he screamed with the pain and torment of the severe itching.  Nothing could be done to relieve him, and if his strength lasted till we could get better air, water and food he might recover, but his chances were very poor.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Not much rest at this camp for in the morning we aimed to start early and reach the water in the foothills.  We thought we could do it if we started early, walked rapidly and took no resting spell at noon.  Such a poor soil as this we were anxious to get away from, and walk once more on a soil that would grow something besides stunted sage brush.  From all appearances the Jayhawkers were here in about the same predicament Rogers and I were when we lost the trail.  By their tracks we could see they had scattered wide and there was no road left for us to follow, and they had evidently tried to follow our former tracks.  Having no trail to follow we passed on as best we could and came to a wide piece of land on which were growing a great many cabbage trees.  The soil was of the finest dust with no grit in it, and not long before a light shower had fallen, making it very soft and hard to get along in with the mocassins.  The women had to stop to rest frequently, so our progress was very slow.  Rogers and I had feet about as hard as those of the oxen, so we removed our mocassins and went barefoot, finding we could get along much easier in that way, but the others had such tender feet they could not endure the rough contact with the brush and mud.  Only a few miles had been made before the women were so completely tired out that we had to stop and eat our little bit of dried meat and wait till morning.  The little mule now carried all our stock of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When the sun went down we tied the mule and oxen to cabbage trees, and shortly after dusk lay down ourselves, for we had enjoyed a good fire made of the trunks of cabbage trees, the first really comfortable one in a long time.  The air was cooler here, for we were on higher ground, and there was some snow on the range of mountains before us, which sent these cool breezes down to us, a change of climate quite pleasing.</P>
107.sgm:<P>For breakfast in the morning we had only dried meat roasted before the fire, without water, and when we started each one put a piece in his or her pocket to chew on during the day as we walked along.  As we went ahead the ground grew dryer and the walking much improved.  The morning overhead was perfectly lovely, as away east, across the desert the sun early showed his face to us.  Not a cloud anywhere, not even over the tops of the high peaks where great white masses sometimes cluster but dissolve as soon as they float away, and there was not wind enough to be perceptible.  We remarked the same lack of animal life which we had noticed on our first passage over this section, seeing not a rabbit, bird, or living thing we could use for food.  Bennett had the same load in his gun he put there when we left the wagons, and all the powder I had burned was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As we approached the low foot-hills the trail became better travelled and better to walk in, for the Jayhawkers who had scattered, every one for himself apparently, in crossing the plain, seemed here to have drawn together and their path was quite a beaten one.  We saw from this that they followed the tracks made by Rogers and myself as we made our first trip westward in search of bread.  Quite a little before the sun went out of sight in the west we reached our camping place in the lower hills at the eastern slope of a range we must soon cross.  Here was some standing water in several large holes, that proved enough for our oxen, and they found some large sage brush and small bushes round about, on which they browsed and among which they found a few bunches of grass.  Lying about were some old skulls of cattle which had sometime been killed, or died.  These were the first signs of the sort we had seen along this route.  They might have been killed by Indians who doubtless used this trail.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The next day in crossing the range before us, we reached the edge of the snow, which the sun had softened, and we dare not attempt to cross.  Early in the morning, when it was frozen hard the cattle could travel it very well.  The snow belt was five or six miles wide, and the snow two or three feet deep.  This was a very good camping place except that we had to melt snow for all our water, but this being coarse and icy it was not a great job as we found enough dry juniper trees and twigs to make a very good fire.  Here we also had to kill another ox.  This one in its turn was Arcane's, and left him only two, and Bennett three, but we think that if we have no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We were out of this camp at daylight.  Very little rest for some of us, but we must make the best of the cool morning while the snow is hard, and so move on as soon as we can see the way.  As it gets lighter and the sun comes up red and hot out of the desert we have a grand view of the great spread of the country to south and of the great snow mountain to the north and east, the peak standing over the place where we left our wagons nineteen days before, on the edge of Death Valley.  The glare of the snow on the sun makes us nearly blind, but we hurry on to try to cross it before it becomes so soft as to slump under our feet.  It is two or three feet in the deepest places, and probably has been three times as deep when freshly fallen, but it is now solid and icy.  Our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>A mile or two down the hill we were at last out of the snow, and a little farther on we came to the little babbling brook Rogers and I had so long painted in the most refreshing colors to the tired women, with water, wood and grass on every hand, the three greatest blessings of a camper's life.  Here was where Rogers and I had cooked and eaten our meat of crow, quail and hawk, pretty hard food, but then, the blessed water!</P>
107.sgm:<P>There it danced and jumped over the rocks singing the merriest song one ever heard, as it said--Drink, drink ye thirsty ones your fill--the happiest sweetest music to the poor starved, thirsty souls, wasted down almost to haggard skeletons.  O! if some poet of wildest imagination could only place himself in the position of those poor tired travelers to whom water in thick muddy pools had been a blessing, who had eagerly drank the fluid even when so salt and bitter as to be repulsive, and now to see the clear, pure liquid, distilled from the crystal snow, abundant, free, filled with life and health--and write it in words--the song of that joyous brook and set it to the music that it made as it echoed in gentle waves from the rocks and lofty walls, and with the gentle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>New life seemed to come to the dear women.  "O!  What a beautiful stream!" say they, and they dip in a tin cup and drink, then watch in dreaming admiration the water as it goes hurrying down; then dip and drink again, and again watch the jolly rollicking brook as if it were the most entertaining thing in the whole wide earth.  "Why can't such a stream as that run out of the great Snow Mountain in the dry Death Valley?'! say they--"so we could get water on the way."</P>
107.sgm:<P>The men have felt as glad as any of them, but have gathered wood and made a fire, and now a camp kettle of cut up meat is boiling for our supper.  It was not yet night, but we must camp in so beautiful a place as this, and though the food was poor, we were better off than we had been before.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Bennett proposed that I take the mule and go back to where we saw the track of the animal in the snow and follow it in hope that we might get some game for we had an idea it might be an elk or bear or some large game, good to kill and give us better meat:  So I saddled the mule and took the trail back till I came to the track, then followed it as best I could, for it was very dull and gave me no idea what it was.  I traced out of the snow and then in a blind way through bushes as high as the mule's back--Chaparral we called it now--among which I made my way with difficulty.  I could now see that the track was made by an ox or cow--perhaps an elk--I could not tell for sure it was so faint.  This chaparral covered a large piece of table land, and I made my way through it, following the track for a mile or two, till I camp to the top of a steep hill sloping down into a deep can&tilde;on and a creek, on the bank of which grew sycamore and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I examined my game and found the first one was a poor old cow, but the others were yearlings, one of them very fat and nice, and I soon had the hind quarters skinned out, and all the fat I could find, which made a big load for the mule.  It was now almost dark, and the next problem was to get back to camp again.  The brushy hills would be terrible to cross with a load of meat, and by the way the ground lay I concluded our camp was on this same creek farther down.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The only way that seemed at all feasible was to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>So the little mule and I started on, wading the creek in thick darkness, getting only the most dim reflected light from the sky through now and then an opening in the trees.  I did not know then how easy it was for a grizzly to capture myself, the mule and meat and have quite a variety for supper.  But the grizzly stayed at home and we followed on through brambles and hard brush, through which it was almost impossible to force one's way.  As it turned out, I was not in the track of the storm and did not suffer much from it.  Soon the can&tilde;on grew wider, and I could make out on the right hand a piece of table land covered with brush that seemed easier to get through than the creek bed.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The hill up to the table land was very steep, but not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>After proceeding some distance the mule stopped and did not seem to wish to go any farther.  I was pretty sure there was something in front of her that blocked the way, and so worked my way through the brush and carefully past her.  I could partly see and partly hear something just ahead, and in a moment found it was our good faithful Cuff, and no frightful spook at all.  The good fellow had discovered our approach and came out to meet us, and I am sure the mule was as glad as I was to see him.  He crawled through the brush and smelled at the mule's load and then went forward in the trail, which we followed.  It was a long time after midnight when we reached camp.  There was a good fire burning, but all were asleep till I led the mule up to the fire and called out--"Wake Up," when they were most of them on their feet in a minute without stopping to dress, for all had slept a long time without taking off their clothes.</P>
107.sgm:<P>John took charge of the mule and unloaded it, telling me to get into his warm bed.  I took off my wet clothes and told him to dry them, and then got between the dry, warm blankets in greatest comfort.  Daylight came very quickly, it seemed to me, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This sporting trip was quite different from deer hunting in Wisconsin, and nothing like looking for game in Death Valley where nothing lived.  It was the hardest night's work that ever came to me in many a day, and not the wild sport I generally looked for when on the chase.  I felt pretty well when I got up, and a chunk of my last night's prize which had been roasted for me was eaten with a relish, for it was the best of meat and I, of course, had a first class appetite.  I had to tell them my last hunting story, and was much praised as a lucky boy.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We would not be compelled to kill any more of our poor oxen in order to live.  So far we had killed six of them, and there were five left.  Our present situation was much appreciated, compared with that of a few days ago when we were crawling slowly over the desert, hungry, sore-footed and dry, when to lie was far easier than to take steps forward.  We felt like rejoicing at our deliverance and there was no mourning now for us.  The surrounding hills and higher mountains seemed more beautiful to us.  They were covered with green trees and brush, not a desert place in sight.  The clear little singing brook ran merrily on its way, the happiest, brightest stream in all my memory.  Wild birds came near us without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When ready to move it was announced that I had lost my saddle blanket in my adventure, so they substituted another one and I took the back track to the place where the mule slipped down the bank, and there I found it.  I soon overtook them again just as they were going to camp on Mrs. Bennett's account, as she had been suddenly taken sick with severe pain and vomiting, something as Rogers and I had been after eating our first California corn meal.  The rich, fat meat was too strong for her weak stomach.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Arcane all along had an idea that Rogers and I meant to surprise them by leading them to believe the house we had visited was quite a distance off, and then to so manage it that it should appear upon their sight suddenly.  We assured them it would take two or more camps before we could get there, and if Mrs. Bennett did not soon recover, even more than that.  Our camp here was under a great live oak, the ground deep covered with dry leaves, and near by a beautiful meadow where our cattle and mule ate, drank and rested, the oxen chewing their cud with such an air of comfort as had not come to them since leaving their far-off eastern pastures.  They seemed as much pleased as any one.  They would lie down and rest and eat at the same time in perfectly enjoyable laziness.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Here we all rested and washed such clothes as we could do without long enough to dry, and washed our faces and hands over and over again to remove the dirt which had been burned and sweated in so completely as not to come off readily.  We sat on the bank of the brook with our feet dangling in the water, a most refreshing bath, and they too began to look <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:clean again.  We often saw tracks of the grizzly bear about, but in our ignorance had no fear of them, for we did not know they were a dangerous animal.  An owl came and hooted in the night, but that was the only challenge any wild beast or bird gave to our peaceful and restful camp.  We were out of the dreadful sands and shadows of Death Valley, its exhausting phantoms, its salty columns bitter lakes and wild, dreary sunken desolation.  If the waves of the sea could flow in and cover its barren nakedness, as we now know they might if a few sandy barriers were swept away, it would be indeed, a blessing, for in it there is naught of good, comfort or satisfaction, but ever in the minds of those who braved its heat and sands, a thought of a horrid Charnel house, a cornero the earth so dreary that it requires an exercise of strongest faith to believe that the great Creator ever smiled upon it as a portion of his work and pronounced it "Very good."  We had crossed the great North American Continent, from a land of plenty, over great barren hills and plains, to another mild and beautiful region, where, though still in winter months, we were basking in the warmth and luxuriance of early summer.  We thought not of the gold we had come to win.  We were dead almost, and now we lived.  We were parched with thirst, and now the brightest of crystal streams invited us to stoop and drink.  We were starved so that we had looked at each other with maniac thoughts, and now we placed in our mouth the very fat of the land.  We had seen our cattle almost perishing; seen them grow gaunt and tottering; seen them slowly plod along with hanging heads and only the supremacy of human will over animal instinct had kept them from lying down never to rise again.  Now they were in pastures of sweet grass, chewing the cud of content and satifaction.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Though across the desert and evidently in the long promised land our troubles and trials were not through by any means, but evidently we were out of danger.  Our lives seemed to be secure, and we were soon to meet with settlers who would no doubt extend to us the hand of human sympathy.  Many long miles yet remained between us and the rivers in whose sands were hidden the tiny grains of gold we came to seek.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The rest in the lovely camp had answered to cause Mrs. Bennett to feel quite well again by the next morning, and we made ready to proceed.  We had the trail of the Jayhawkers to follow, so the vines, brambles and tangles which had perplexed Rogers and myself in our first passage were now somewhat broken down, and we could get along very well without further clearing of the road until the hills came down so close on both sides that there was no room except in the very bed of the stream.  There was no other way, so we waded along after the oxen as best we could.  Sometimes the women fell down, for a rawhide mocassin soaked soft in water was not a very comfortable or convenient shoe, however it might be adapted to hot, dry sands.  The creek was shaded and the water quite cool.  The trail, such as it was, crossed the creek often and generally was nothing else than the stream itself.  The constant wading, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Wood was plenty and dry, so a good fire was soon burning, and the poor women, wet to the waist and even higher, were standing before it, turning round and round to get warm and dry.  Someone remarked that they resembled geese hanging before the fire to roast, as they slowly revolved, and it was all owing to their fatigue that the suggestor did not receive merited punishment then and there at their hands.  As they got a little dry and comfortable they remarked that even an excess of water like this was better than the desert where there was none at all, and as to their looks, there were no society people about to point their fingers at them, and when they reached a settled country they hoped to have a chance to change their clothes, and get two dresses apiece, and that these would be long enough to hide their knees which these poor tatters quite failed to do.  One remarked that she was sure she had been down in the brook a dozen times and that she did not consider cold water baths so frequently repeated were good for the health.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Young Charley Arcane had been getting better for some days.  No medicine had been given him, and it was no doubt the change of air and water that had begun to effect a cure.  Arcane had a hard time of it to keep the brush from pulling George and Melissa off of Old Crump into the water.  It was indeed one of the hardest day's work of the whole journey, but no one was low spirited, and all felt very well.  The camping place was in a deep can&tilde;on, surrounded by thick brush, so that no wind came in to chill us.  Everybody was cook and nobody was boss.  Not a cent of money among us, nor any chance to use any if we had possessed it.  We had nice, sweet, fat meat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The next day we did not wade half as much, and after a few hours of travel we suddenly emerged from the brush into a creek bottom which was much wider, with not a tree to obstruct our way.  The soil was sandy and covered more or less with sage brush, and the stream which had been strong and deep enough to make us very wet now sank entirely out of sight in the sandy bottom.  The hills were thinly timbered on the left side but quite brushy on the right, and we could see the track of cattle in the sand.  No signs of other animals, but some small birds came near, and meadow larks whistled their tune, quite familiar to us, but still sounding slightly different from the song of the same bird in the East.  High in the air could be seen a large sailing hawk or buzzard.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We stopped to rest at noon and noticed that the water ran a little in the creek bed; but, by the time we were ready to start we found none with which to fill our canteens.  No doubt this water was poured into the can&tilde;on somewhere near the place where we killed the three cattle, and we had got out of it before the flood came down.  It was astonishing to see how the thirsty sand drank up the quite abundant flow.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The next day we came down to the point of hill that nearly crossed the valley, and we crossed the low ridge rather than make a longer trip to get around by way of the valley.  As we reached the summit there appeared before us as beautiful a rural picture as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We tarried here perhaps two hours, till the cattle stopped eating, and amply enjoyed the scene.  Never again would any one of the party go back over that dreary desert, they said,, and everyone wondered why all places could not be as green and beautiful as this one I cannot half tell how we felt and acted, nor what we said in our delight over this picture of plenty.  The strong contrasts created strong impressions, and the tongues so long silent in our dry and dreary trouble were loosened to say everything the heart inspired.  Think as much as you can; you cannot think it all.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We felt much better after our rest, and the oxen seemed stronger and better able, as well as more willing to carry their loads, so we soon prepared to move on down the valley, toward the house we had spoken of as the goal we were to reach.  It was now the 7th day of March 1850, and this date, as well as the 4th day of November 1849 will always remain an important one in memory.  On the last named day we left the trail to take the unfortunate cut-off, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Loaded up again we start down the beautiful grassy valley, the women each with a staff in hand, and everything is new and strange to us.  Rogers and I know that we will soon meet people who are strangers to us; who speak a strange language of which we know nothing, and how we, without a dollar, are to proceed to get our food and things we need, are questions we cannot answer nor devise any easy way to overcome.  The mines are yet five hundred miles away, and we know not of any work for us to do nearer.  Our lives have been given back to us, and now comes the problem of how to sustain them manfully and independently as soon as possible.  If worse comes to worst we can walk to San Francisco, probably kill enough game on the way and possibly reach the gold mines at last, but the way was not clear.  We must trust much to luck and fortune and the ever faithful Providence which rarely fails those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We began to think some very independent thoughts.  We had a mule to carry our camp kettle and meat; Our cattle were now begining to improve and would soon get fat; these could carry our blankets and odd loads, while Old Crump the christian could still carry the children; Bennett and I knew how to hunt, and had good rifles; so we could still proceed, and we determined that, come what may, <HI REND="italics">we will be victorious</HI>
107.sgm:<P>These were some of the plans we talked over at our camps and resting places, and as we walked along.  If we could get the two families fixed in some way so they could do without Rogers and I, we could strike for the mines quite rapidly and no doubt soon get ourselves on good footing.  We were younger than the rest and could endure more hardship.  We decide to remain together till we get to Los Angeles, and then see what is best.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We reached our camping place at the foot of the hill, about a hundred yards from the house we have so long striven to reach.  Here we unloaded in the shade of a large willow tree, and scarcely had we removed the harness from the oxen when the good lady of the house and her little child came down to see us.  She stood for a moment and looked around her and at the two small children on the blankets, and we could hear her murmur <HI REND="italics">mucha pobre</HI>
107.sgm: (very poor.)  She could see our ragged clothes and dirty faces and everything told her of our extreme destitution.  After seeing our oxen and mule which were so poor she said to herself " <HI REND="italics">flaco,flaco</HI>
107.sgm: " (so thin.)  She then turned to us, Rogers and I, whom she had seen before, and as her lively little youngster clung to her dress, as if in fear of such queer looking people as we were, she took an orange from her pocket and pointing to the children of our party, wanted to know if we had given them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:the four oranges she sent to them by us.  We made signs that we had done as she requested, when she smiled and said " <HI REND="italics">Buenos Muchuchos</HI>
107.sgm:<P>Arcane said to her--"Me Catholic" which she seemed partly to comprehend and seemed more friendly.  About this time two men rode up and took a look at us.  Arcane, who was a mason, gave the masonic sign, as he told me afterward, but neither of them recognized it.  We used such words of Spanish as I had taken down in my pass book and committed to memory and by motions in addition to these made them understand something of the state of affairs and that Mr. French who had assisted us before had told us we could get some meat ( <HI REND="italics">carne</HI>
107.sgm:<P>They seemed to understand what we had said to them, for they rode off with a rush and came back in a short time, leading a fine, fat two-year-old heifer.  When near our camp the rider who was behind threw his <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
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107.sgm:<P>We were much gratified at the generosity of the people, and at once dressed the animal as it lay, cutting off some good fat pieces which we roasted over the fire and ate with a relish.  It seemed as if meat never tasted so good as that did sweet, fragrant, and juicy.  If some French cook could only cook a steak that would smell and taste to his customers as that meal tasted to us, his art would be perfect.  We separated a hind quarter and hung it to a tree, and when the lady came back we told her that the piece we had selected was enough for our present use, so she caused the remainder with the hide to be taken to the house.  Toward night they drove up a lot of cows and calves and other cattle into their cattle yard or corral, as it is called all over California, a stockade of strong oak posts set deep in the ground and close together, enclosing a space of about half an acre.  The horsemen now rode in and began to catch the calves with their ropes.  It seemed as if they were able to throw a rope over a calf's head or around either leg they desired, with better aim, and at as great a distance as one could shoot a Colt's revolver, and we saw at once that a good raw-hide rope in the hands of an experienced man and well-trained horse, was a weapon in many respects superior to firearms of any kind.  A man near the gate loosened the ropes and pushed the calves into a separate corral till they had as many as they pesired.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Rogers watched the circus till it was over and then returned to camp, meeting on the way Bennett and Arcane, with their wives and children, carrying some blankets, for the good lady had invited them to come up to the house and sleep, They said we could go down and keep camp if old dog Cuff was willing, for they had left him guarding the property.  He was pleased enough to have us come and keep him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The people came back to camp iu the morning and had their experience to relate.  Their hosts first baked some kind of slapjacks and divided them among their guests; then gave them beans seasoned hot with pepper: also great pieces of squash cooked before the fire, which they said was delicious and sweet-more than good.  Then came a dish of dried meat pounded fine, mixed with green peppers and well fried in beef tallow.  This seemed to be the favorite dish of the proprietors, but was a little too hot for our people.  They called it <HI REND="italics">chili cum carne</HI>
107.sgm: -meat with pepper-and we soon found this to be one of the best dishes cooked by the Californians.  The children were carefully waited on and given special attention to by these good people, and it was nearly ten o'clock before the feast was over: then the household had evening worship by meeting in silence, except a few set words repeated by some in turn, the ceremony lasting half an hour or more.  Then they came and wished them <HI REND="italics">buenos noches</HI>
107.sgm:<P>The unaccustomed shelter of a roof and the restless worrying oi the children, who required much attention, for the change of diet had about the same effect on them as on Rogers and myself when we first partook of the California food, gave them little sleep, but still they rested and were truly grateful for the most perfect hospitality of these kind hearted people.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the morning the two horsemen and two Indians went to the corral, when the riders would catch a cow with their ropes and draw her head up to a post, binding it fast, while an Indian took a short piece of rope and closely tied the hind legs together above the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This morning Mr. Arcane, with our assistance, made an arrangement with these people to give them his two oxen; and they were to take him and his wife and child, to the sea-shore, at a place called San Pedro, from which place he hoped, in some way, to get passage to San Francisco in a sailing vessel.  He had no money, and no property to sell, except perhaps his spy-glass, worth about ten dollars.  With this poor prospect before him he started for the sea.  He bade Bennett's folks good-bye, then came to me and put a light gold ring on my finger, saying that it and his interest in the little mule were mine.  Then he gave his silver watch to Rogers and said it was all he had to give him, but if he had a million dollars, he would divide, and still think it a small compensation for the faithful services <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>He helped Mrs. Arcane on her horse, then gave Charlie to her, and, amid waving hands and many <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
107.sgm:<P>Our little train now seemed much smaller.  Three oxen and a mule were all our animals, and the adults must still walk, as they had done on our desert route.  But we were comparatively happy, for we had plenty of good meat to eat, plenty of sweet water to drink, and our animals were contented and improving every day; grass and water seemed plenty everywhere.  We put our luggage on the oxen and the mule, loaded the children on Old Crump as we had done before, and were ready to move again.  Our good friends stood around and smiled good-naturedly at our queer arrangements, and we, not knowing how to say what our hearts would prompt us to, shook their hands and said good bye in answer to their " <HI REND="italics">adios amigos</HI>
107.sgm:<P>The men then detained me a little while to ask me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:more about the road we had come over, how far it was, and how bad the Indians were, and other particulars.  I told him by signs that we had been twenty-two days on the road, and that the <HI REND="italics">Indianos</HI>
107.sgm:, as they called them, had not troubled us, but that there was very little grass or water in all that land.  He made a sort of map on the ground and made me understand he would like to go back and try to bring out the wogons we had left behind, and he wanted me to go back with him and help him.  I explained to him by the map he had made, and one which I made myself, that I considered it impossible to bring them over.  He seemed much disappointed, and with a shrug of his shoulders said " <HI REND="italics">mucho malo</HI>
107.sgm: " (very bad) and seemed to abandon the idea of getting a Yankee wagon.  They very much admired an American wagon, for their own vehicles were rude affairs, as I shall bye-and-bye describe.  We bade each other many <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
107.sgm:<P>We had now been a whole year on the road between Wisconsin and California, much of the time with the ground for a bed, and though our meals had been sometimes scanty and long between, very few of us had missed one on account of sickness.  Some, less strong that we, had lain down to perish, and had been left behind, without coffin or grave; but we were here, and so far had found food to nourish us in some degree with prospects now of game in the future if nothing better offered.  We still talked of going to the gold mines on foot, for with good food and rest our courage had returned, and we wanted to succeed.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our camp this night was io a nice watering place, where dry oak wood was plenty and grass abundant.  It was at the foot of the San Fernando Mountain, not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We ate our supper of good meat, with a dessert of good beans our kind friends had given us, and enjoyed it greatly.  As we sat in silence a flock of the prettiest, most graceful birds came marching along, and halted as if to get a better view of our party.  We admired them so much that we made not a move, but waited, and they fearlessly walked on again.  We could see that there were two which were larger than the rest, and from twelve to twenty smaller ones.  The little top-knot on the head and their symmetrical forms made them specially attractive, and Mrs. Bennett and the children were much pleased.  The beauty of the California quail is especially striking to one who sees them for the first time.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the morning we began to climb the hill, getting along very well indeed, for our raw-hide mocassins were now dry and hard and fitted the foot perfectly.  We did not try to make great speed, but kept steadily on, and as we were used to climbing, we reached the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We rested here a little while and then wound our way down the hill to the level land.  A few miles brought us to the mission houses and the church of San Fernando.  There was not much life about them, in fsct they seemed comparatively deserted, for we saw only one man and a few Indians.  The man brought some oranges and gave the children one each.  After a little rest we moved on over our road which was now quite smooth and gently descending.  Night overtook us in a place where there was no water, but we camped and suffered no inconvenience.  A stream was passed next day, and a house near by unoccupied.  The road now began to enter gently rolling hills covered with big grass and clover, which indicated rich soil, and we never get tired of talking about it.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At the top of these hills we had another beautiful view as far south and west as the eye could reach.  Small objects, probably horses and cattle, were scattered about the plain, grazing in the midst of plenty.  Our own animals were given frequent opportunities to eat, and again and again we rejoiced over the beauty.  Of course it was not such a surprise and wonder as it was when such a view first burst upon our sight, but it pleased and delighted us ever.  On the east was a snow-capped peak, and here we were in the midst of green fields of grass and wild flowers, in the softest climate of an early spring.  These strong contrasts beat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As we came over the hills we could see a village near the southern base and it seemed quite near us.  It was a new and strange sight to us as we approached.  The houses were only one story high and seemed built of mud of a gray color, the roofs flat, and the streets almost deserted.  Occasionly a man could be seen, sometimes a dog, and now and then an Indian, sitting with his back to the house.  The whole view indicated a thinly populated place, and the entire absence of wagons or animals was a rather strange circumstance to us.  It occurred to us at first that if all the emigrants were gone our reception might be a cool one in this city of mud.  One thing was in its favor and that was its buildings were about fire proof for they had earthen floors and flat roofs.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>We rested half an hour or so just outside, and then ventured down the hill into the street.  We met an American almost the first man, and when we asked about a suitable camping place, he pointed out the way and we marched on.  Our strange appearance attracted the attention of the children and they kept coming out of the houses to see the curious little train with Old Crump carrying the children and our poor selves following along, dirty and ragged.  Mrs, Bennett's dress hardly reached below her knees, and although her skirts were fringed about the bottom it was of a kind that had not been adopted as yet in general circle of either Spanish-American or good United States society.  The shortness of the dress made the curious raw-hide mocassins only the more prominent, and the whole make-up of the party was a curious sight.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We went down the hill a little further to the lower bottom to camp, while the barefooted, bareheaded urchins followed after to get a further look at the strangers.  Before we selected a suitable place, we saw two tents and some wagons which looked like those of overland travelers, and we went toward them.  When within fifty yards two men suddenly came to their feet and looked at our little party approaching as if in wonder, but at twenty steps they recognizedBennett and came rushing forward.  "My God!  It's Bennett" said they, and they clasped hands in silence while one greeted Mrs. Bennett warmly.  The meeting was so unexpected they shed tears and quietly led the way back to camp.  This was the camp of R. G. Moody and H. C. Skinner, with their families.  They had traveled together on the Platte and became well acquainted, the warmest of friends, and knowing that Bennett had taken the cut off, they more than suspected he and his party had been lost, as no sight of them had come to their eyes.  They had been waiting here six weeks in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Leaving them to compare notes, Rogers and I took charge of Old Crump, the oxen, and the mule, unpacked them, and arranged camp under a monstrous willow tree.  Bennett and his wife were taken into Mr. Moody's tent, and an hour or so later when Mrs. Bennett appeared again, she had her face washed clean, her hair combed, and a new clean dress.  It was the first time we had found soap, and the improvement in her looks and feelings was surprising.  Bennett looked considerably cleaned up too, and appeared bright and fresh.  The children had also been taken in hand and appeared in new clothes selected from the wardrobe of the other children, and the old dirty clothes were put in process of washing as soon as possible.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Supper came, and it was so inviting.  There was real bread and it looked so nice we smiled when it was offered to us.  Mrs. Bennett broke pieces for the children and cautioned them not to eat too much.  It did seem so good to be among friends we could talk with and be understood.  After supper was over and the things cleared away we all sat down in a circle and Bennett told the story of where he had been these many days on the cut off that was to shorten the trail.  Mr. Moody said he had about given the party up and intended to start up the coast to-morrow.  The story was so long that they talked till they were sleepy and then began again after breakfast, keeping it up till they had a good outline of all our travels and tribulations.  This Mr. R. G. Moody, his wife and daughter, Mrs. Quinby, and son.  Charles, all lived in San Jose and are now dead.  H. C. Skinner was a brother-in-law of Moody and also lived a long time in San Jose, but himself, son and one daughter, are now dead.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>Rogers and I now took the pack-saddle we had borrowed of Mr. French to use on our trip to Death Valley and return, and carried it to the saloon on the east side of the plaza, where we were to place it if we got back safely, and delivered it to the man in charge, with many thanks to Mr. French for his favors to us, and sent him word that we would always remember him and be ready to do him a similar or equal favor if ever we were able.  We considered him a good benevolent man, and such he proved to be when he offered us fat oxen, good beans, and any other thing we needed.  He told the people in the house who we were, which no doubt influenced them kindly in our favor when we arrived.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At the saloon there was a large room with tables in it and gambling going on actively.  Money changed hands very rapidly, drinks at the bar were frequent, and the whole affair moved forward with the same regularity as any mercantile business.  The door stood wide open and any one could come and go at his pleasure.  Quite a number of black-eyed, fair looking women circulated among the crowd, and this, to us, seemed quite out of place, for we had never seen women in saloons before.  We watched the game awhile to see some losing and some gaining, the result being quite exciting; but as neither of us had any money, we could not have joined in the game had we been so disposed; so we looked on awhile and then took a seat on the ground outside of the house.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Here we talked over our chances of getting to the mines.  All the clothes we had were on our backs and feet and those were the poorest of the poor.  We had no money.  I had the little black-eyed mule, and Rogers had the watch Arcane had given him.  Mr. Moody had said it was 500 miles to San Francisco, and 150 miles further to the mines, so that after the hard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We could not see any way to make a living here.  There was no land cultivated, not a fence, nothing to require labor of any kind.  The valley was rich enough and produced great crops of grass, and the cattle and horses we had seen grazing seemed to be about all the use they put it to.  It looked as if the people must live principally on meat.  I thought if we could manage to get a little provision together, such as flour and beans, that I could pack there on the mule, and I was pretty sure I could find game that would be better meat than we had lived on during the last two months on the desert.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We looked around to see if we could find something to do to earn a little for a start, but were not successful.  In our walk about this city of mud we saw many things that seemed strange to us.  There were more women than men, and more children than grown-up people, while the dogs were plenty.  At the edge of the town, near the river were some grape vines fenced in with living willows, interlaced in some places with dry vines.  The Indians moved very moderately around and no doubt had plenty of beef to eat, with very few wants to provide for.  We noticed some few people paying for small things at the stores with small money.  The women all dressed much alike.  The dress was of some cheap materia!, sandals on feet, and a kind of long shawl worn over the head and thrown over the shoulder.  There seemed to be neither hoops nor corsets in their fashions.  The men wore trousers of white cotton or linen, with a calico shirt, sandals, and a broad rimmed snuff colored hat.  The Indians and their wives went bareheaded.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Near the end of the street we came to a boarding house and went in and sat down in the empty room.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We had a long talk about the hard journey we had each experienced.  As his party had not waited they had come through ahead of us.  He said himself and Mr. Granger had started a boarding house when they arrived, and had been doing a good business.  He said that as long as the emigrants continued to come he could get along very well.  We asked him if there was any chance for us to work and get money to get some provisions to help us on the way to the mines.  He said he could give work to one of us hauling water for the house with oxen and cart, and the one who could manage oxen was the man.  I was an ox driver and so told him I would take his team and cart and set out with the work.  He said he could pay fifty dollars a month, and I accepted the offer quickly as I saw it was a good chance to build up my exhausted strength and flesh.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I turned the little mule out in the hills near by, and began my work.  It was not hard, for the boarders were thinning out.  The natives did not patronize this hotel very much, but grub disappeared pretty fast at my corner of the table, for my appetite began to be ravenous.  There was not much variety to the food and very few luxuries or delicacies, which were hard to obtain on such a bare market, but all seemed satisfied with the food, and to me it tasted extra good.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Rogers went back to the old camp and helped them there, and I often went over after dark, when my work was done.  Moody and Skinner had been active in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I was left alone after they started, and it was my idea to quit when I had worked a month, and if my mule staid with me, to start for the mines even if I went alone.  The majority of the male inhabitants of this town had gone to the mines, and this accounted for the unusual proportion of women.  We learned that they would return in November, and then the gambling houses would start up in full blast, for these native Californians seemed to have a great natural desire to indulge in games of chance, and while playing their favorite game of monte would lay down their last reale (12 1/2 cents) in the hope of winning the money in sight before them on the table.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As the boarding house business got dull I was taken over to a vineyard and set to work, in place of hauling water.  The entire patch was as green as a meadow with weeds, and I was expected to clean them out.  I inquired of Brier how he came to get hold of this nice property, and he said that during the war the soldiers had taken possession of this piece of ground, and had their camp here, so he considered it was government land, and therefore had squatted on it and was going to hold it, and pay for it as regular government land, and that he already considered it his own, for said he, "I am an American, and this is a part of the public domain."  "All right," said I, "I will kill weeds for you, if you wish, when I have time to spare, and you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I could see every day that I was improving in health and weight and would soon become myself again, able to take the road to the mines.  When about two weeks of my time had expired two oldish men came to the house to stop for a few days and reported themselves as from Sacramento, buying up some horses for that market.  Thus far they had purchased only six or eight, as they had found the price too high to buy and then drive so far to a market to sell again.  They had about decided to go back with what they had and undertake some other kind of business.  I thought this would be a pretty good chance for me to go, as I would have company, and so went to Brier and Granger and told them what I would like to do, and that with their permission I would quit and go on with them.  They readily consented, for their money was coming in rather slow, and they paid me twenty five dollars for half a month's work.  This made me feel pretty rich and I thought this would give me food enough to reach the mines.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Having two or three days to get ready in, I began doing the best I could.  I found an old saddle tree which had been thrown away, and managed to fix it up so I could use it.  I also found an old gun some traveler had left, and with a little work I fitted the breech of that to my own gun which was broken, and had been roughly tied together with strips of raw-hide.  I now had a good sound gun if it was not very handsome.  I bought a Spanish blanket, not so wide as ours, but coarse and strong, and having a hole in the center through which to put the head and wear it as a garment in case of storm, or at night.  I went to a native store and bought a supply of carne&acute; seca (dried beef) and some crackers, put some salt in my pocket and was now provisioned for another trip.  I found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Thedrovers had found two other men who wanted to go with them and help drive the horses for their board.  I put my blanket on under the saddle, packed my little sack of meat and crackers on behind, and when I was in the saddle with my gun before me I considered I was pretty well fixed and able to make my way against almost anything.  I said to myself that the only way now to keep me from getting to the gold mines was to kill me.  I felt that there was not a mountain so high I could not climb, and no desert so wide and dry that I could not cross it.  I had walked and starved and choked and lived through it, and now I felt so strong and brave I could do it again--any way to reach the gold mines and get some of the "dust."</P>
107.sgm:<P>I had not much idea how the gold from the mines looked.  Everybody called it gold dust, and that conveyed an idea to me that it was fine as flour, but how to catch it I did not know.  I knew other people found a way to get it, and I knew I could learn if any body could.  It was a great longing that came to me to see some of the yellow dust in its native state, before it had been through the mint.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At the last meal I took at the house there were only a few at the table.  Among them was a well dressed Californian who evidently did not greatly fancy American cooking, but got along very well till Mrs. Brier brought around the dessert, a sort of duff.  This the Californian tasted a few times and then laid down his spoon saying it was no bueno and some other words I did not then understand, but afterward learned that they meant "too much grease."  The fellow left the table not well pleased with what we generally cons der the best end of a Yankee dinner, the last plate.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>While here I had slept in a small store room, where I made my pallet out of old rags and blankets.  While I was looking round for material to make my bed I came across a bag partly full of sugar, brought from Chili.  It was in very coarse crystals, some as large as corn.  There were some other treasures and luxuries there that perhaps I was expected guard.  I however had a sweet tooth and a handful or so of the sweet crystals found their way into my pocket.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I bade Mr. Brier and the rest good bye and rode away to join my company.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>[Leaving the little party whose wanderings we have followed so closely, safely arrived in Los Angeles, their further history in California will be taken up later on, and this narrative will go back to points when the original party was broken up and trace the little bands in their varied experience.  It will be remembered that the author and his friends, after a perilous voyage down Green River, halted at the camp of the Indian chief, Walker, and there separated, the Author and four companions striking for Salt Lake, while Mc Mahon and Field remained behind, fully determined to go on down the river.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The story of these two men is told by Mc Mahon in the following interesting letter.]</P>
107.sgm:<P>Dear Manley:--</P>
107.sgm:<P>Yours requesting me to give you a synopsis of the history of incidents, experience, and observations of our mutual friend, Richard Field and myself, from the time you, John Rogers, Alfred Walton, and the Hazelrig brothers left us at the camp of the generous old chief Walker on the west bank of the river near the mouth of the "great seven days can&tilde;on" is at hand.</P>
107.sgm:<P>You no doubt distinctly, and with pleasure, remember that unbroken friendship which existed among us up to the time of our separation and that we parted warm and tried friends.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Well, after you and your companions had left us we set to work  to prepare the canvas for the continuation of the voyage down the river.  We drilled holes through the sides of the "Pilot"--you, I have no doubt remember which that was, yours and mine, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>You know that I was the biggest coward of the whole seven; but I assumed courage and told Field that I would go down the river alone; and, for a time, I thought I would do so; but after some reflection I concluded that, perhaps, discretion was the better part valor, and reluctantly gave it up.  We now decided to follow you, or to take some other unknown route and try to make our escape out of this most perilous condition.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We then set about, as you had done, to trade with Walker for a pony or two, and after much dickering Field succeeded in getting the, afterwards famous, big, old, sore-backed mule.  You may not remember him, but I do; and, notwithstanding his sore back, he made pretty good beef.  I, with pins, needles, thread, a pocket-knife, a handkerchief, etc., succeeded in getting a very nice, round, three-year-old, iron-gray pony.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After making pack-saddles, and getting almost ready to start, we were, through Walker's kindness and persuasiveness, overcome, and consented to go with him, feeling confident that we would not starve to death while with him.  We did not now have Manley with his long experience, and his old rusty, but always trusty, rifle as a sure defence against possible hunger and starvation.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The old chief, and, in fact, the whole tribe, seemed pleased when we consented to go with them.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>All were soon mounted and off to the buffalo fields, Walker having informed us that he intended going up into the buffalo country on the head-waters of Grand River where he would remain until snow fell, when he would go to Salt Lake City, or vicinity.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Leaving the river, we set out across a not entirely barren plain, for there was much sage-brush, and several varieties of cactus.  Towards evening we came close up to the foot of a range of rugged, rocky mountains, where we found water and camped for the night.  Field and I usually pitched our little muslin tent somewhere near our friends where we could sleep without fear of man or beast, for I think some one of the reds was always on guard.</P>
107.sgm:<P>All went well for four or five days, when we all got entirely out of food except a few ounces of flour which we had hidden away for a possible emergency.  During the following two days and nights all were entirely without food excpt the two little children, whom you no doubt remember.  We gave their mother a little flour now and then which she mixed with a little milk which one of the cows afforded, for the little ones.  These Indians did not seem to suffer for want of food; even when we were starving, they appeared happy and contented; and one young fellow would sing all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>My people were religious, and when I was young the family was wont to observe fast days, but never did we have any such long fasts as these were.  In the afternoon of the next day the old chief left the caravan and went on ahead of the train toward a chain of mountains, first giving some directions to the band, and taking one son with him.  When we arrived in a small can&tilde;on in the edge of the momntains we found them with a fine mountain sheep which they had killed and brought down to the dim, little-used trail where we camped; and after we had set up our little tent as usual, a short distance away from our friends, one of the young men brought to us about one fourth of the sheep, while the twenty-two Indians had the rest.</P>
107.sgm:<P>You know that a good-sized mountain sheep would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The next day was spent without food, traveling over rough mouutains.  Within a pass, late in the afternoon, we crossed the fresh trail of some other band of roving red-skins, and Walker suspected who they were, and went into camp early.  The Indians had killed nothing that day, but I had killed a small rabbit which, unfortunately for it, came in my way during the day.  This we offered to the women for themselves and the little children; but they positively refused to accept it, insisting that they did not want it or need it, and that the small supply of milk from the cow was quite sufficient for the little ones, and the others spurned the offer to divide so little a thing, so we had it all to ourselves.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It appeared that these people were accustomed to go for long periods without food, and with little apparent inconvenience; but Field and I began to feel as I suppose Dr. Tanner felt after a few days' fasting, and began to wish that the old chief would get hungry and kill one of his large, fat steers, but he still held them in reserve.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Early the next morning, now nine days from the time we had left the river, the old chief took two of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Field and I both felt greatly disappointed in not being able to proceed north; and in the meantime we had become very tired of the society of these people, notwithstanding the fact that they were exceedingly clever; but we were almost starved to death, and had about come to the conclusion that we would be obliged to make some change.  We were still on the east side of, and considerable distance from the river, and probably not more than one hundred, and twenty miles from the place where we parted from you.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The chief had sent particular instructions for us to go with the tribe; but, after canvassing the whole situation, we decided to part company with our good friends, proceed northward, and try to reach Fort Bridger or some other settlement in the northwest, and so informed them, and requested the boys to bring in our mule and horse, which they did after failing to induce us to go with them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Bright and early the next morning, they all, even the polygamous wives and little children, in apparent sorrow, bade us good-bye, and were off, leaving us alone with our two poor, lonely, four-footed companions, who were very anxious to follow the band of horses.  After the rather melancholy parting we arranged our packs, and about ten o'clock started out on what then seemed, and and afterwards proved, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The days were quite warm, but the nights were cold.  During the first day we killed and ate one small rabbit, and this, with a few seed buds gathered from wild rose bushes, constituted two days' rations.  On the third we did not have even the rabbit or rose seed buds, but late in the afternoon we found some small red berries, similar in appearance to what I, in my childhood, knew and relished as Solomon's seal berries.  I being a natural coward, and fearing that they might poison me, did not eat any of them, but generously allowed my good friend to eat them all.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We had now been almost entirely without water for two days and nights.  When night came on we picketed our animals in a grass plot and lay down near them to see that they did not get tangled in the ropes and hurt, or that some red skin, not having the fear of the Lord in his heart, did not come and take them away.  About ten o'clock my companion began to complain of pain in his stomach and bowels, and was soon vomiting at a fearful rate; so violently, indeed, that I was apprehensive that he might die.  If I had had an emetic I would have given it to him to have assisted nature in pumping those devilish little red berries out of him, for I felt quite sure that they were the cause of his illness.  Perhaps it was fortunate that there was no medecine at hand, for if there had been I might have killed him with it.</P>
107.sgm:<P>He suffered most intensely, and soon became very thirsty, and, there being no water within many miles of us, he appealed to me to bleed one of the animals and let him drink the blood; I refused: he insisted; I again refused: he commanded; I still refused.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>At about eleven o'clock, when his pains were most severe, a dark cloud, the first we had seen for months, came over us, and a little rain began to fall, when I at once opened our little camp kettle and turned the lid upside down, and into both kettle and lid there fell perhaps two or three teaspoonfuls of pure water, every drop of which I gave to the sufferer, whereupon he expressed thanks for another God-send, and at once apologized for bestowing unmerited abuse on me.  He afterwards often asserted that he believed that the little rain-cloud was sent by God for his special benefit, and that the water caught from that cloud was the sweetest and best that he had ever tasted.  I did not doubt the latter half of the above statement, but I did have some doubt about the truth of the former half when I called to mind the scene which followed my refusal to bleed the horse.  Whether the small quantity of water gave him much relief, or not, I do not know, but I do know that he soon became better and slept some while I watched.  He was quite feeble next morning when I put him on the old sore-backed mule, where he rode most of the time for the next four days, while the little horse carried our baggage, and I led the way as usual, on foot.</P>
107.sgm:<P>For four days from the time Field ate the little red berries we did not have a drop of water except the two or three teaspoonfuls which the stingy cloud left to save the life of the "berry-eater."  We were still on the desert, or in the mountains east of the river, traveling hard during the day, and burning up with fever n the night.  There was plenty of drying grass in places, but our poor animals could not eat it any longer, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>On the morning of the third day of starvation, we determined to change our course, and, if possible, reach the river once more.  Bearing to the left over a high, barren range of rocky mountains, and down into a plain of sand, sage brush, and cactus.  During the afternoon I shot a small rabbit, not much larger than a rat, which we carried until night, then broiled and tried to eat it, not because our apetites craved it, but hoping that it might strengthen and sustain us, at least a little while longer.  We were, however, so nearly burned up that there was not a sufficient flow of saliva to moisten the little bits of broiled meat in the mouth.  Late that afternoon we fancied that our fast failing brute companions scented water, or that they instinctively knew that it was not far away.  They would raise their heads, and extend their noses as if smelling, while their physical force and energy seemed renewed, and they certainly traveled faster.</P>
107.sgm:<P>That night we ate the little, as before stated, more as a duty than as a pleasure.  There was some green grass round about where we camped, or, more properly speaking, where we lay, for we did not erect our little tent,--but the poor starving animals did not eat a bite of it, but stood over us as if in sympathy with us in our deplorable condition.  We rose before the sun, being somewhat rested and refreshed, for the night had been cool, and took up our line of march, I, as usual, in the lead, then came the old mule guided by its precious owner, and lastly, the faithful little horse with the pack on his still quite round back;--on over the still dry and barren plain we went, without a Moses, cloud, or pillar of fire to lead us.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>About ten o'clock, through the hot glimmer of the down-pouring rays of the sun, we saw what appeared, and afterwards proved, to be a clump of cottonwood trees.  Our hopes and courage were renewed, for we well knew the cottonwood usually grows near flowing water.  There was no beaten pathway, no signs of animal life, no quails, no manna in that desert; but on we went, almost without a halt, and at one o'clock reached the cottonwood grove, immediately on the bank of the great river down which we had floated in our canoes more than a month before.  On reaching the bank of the river we recognized objects which we had seen while on our way down.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We remembered that both men and horses might be water-foundered, and that self-preservation is said to be the first law of nature; but it was difficult to prevent the famishing brutes from plunging into the river.  We allowed them to take only a small quantity at first, and each of us took only a small cupful; then after a little time all took more, and the thirst was soon quenched.  We were surprised to find how little water it took to satisfy the raging thirst of four days of continued fasting.  The animals, after taking comparatively small quantities, seemed satisfied, and went off in search of grass.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now had an abundance of water, but we well knew that water alone would not sustain life very long: therefore our next, and most serious business was to determine how to prolong our lives.  According to our map, our recollections of different objects, and present appearances we were now a little above the mouth of the Uinta river which comes in from the northwest, all of which proved true.  Our little map pictured Fort Uinta on the Uinta river about one hundred miles from where we were; but whether or not there were any human beings there, we did not know, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>After a little rest, the animals with grass, we packed up, and after Field had put on his, once serviceable, life preserver he mounted the old mule behind the small pack and started to swim across the river.  He took the lead in this instance for three reasons: first, we thought that the mule, being much older than the horse, had probably had more experience and therefore might be a much better swimmer; then Field had the advantage in having the life preserver; but the last, and most potent, reason was my fear of getting drowned.  It was understood that I was to remain on shore and be ready to assist him if necessary, or until he had safely landed on the other side.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In he went, and the trusty old mule was swimming faithfully, and had reached the middle of the river, when Field, as he afterwards told me, to hurry the mule, gave a gentle jerk on the bridle, when, to his utter astonishment, the mule made a complete somer-set backwards plunging Field, the pack, and himself entirely under the water, except his heels which appeared above the water as his head went under.  In a moment Field popped up and, after shaking his head as a swimmer will do after taking a plunge, cast about to take his bearings, or to determine just where he was, and began to paddle with his hands, much as he did when the canoes were upset on the river, or somewhat after the style of a swimming dog.  On coming to the surface, the mule cast a glance at the still living, but unloaded portion of his cargo, then made a bee line for the shore which he had so recently left.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As we were struggling in this muddy swamp, Field said he wondered why some of this superfluous water was not distributed over those dry deserts from which we had so recently come.  I told him, politely, that I thought that a man of his age, ability, opportunites, and nationality, (you know he was quite proud of being an Englishman) ought to know why the moisture was not so distributed, and that I was too illiterate to enlighten him on that point, but that, when opportunity offered, he might consult some one who knew more of natural science than I did.  I informed him that I had an idea that if any considerable portion of the water of that river had been distributed over that desert that we would not have had the experience of the last fifteen days, whereupon he very plainly intimated that I did not have much sense, or, in other words, he called me a d--d fool.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After reaching solid ground and resting for a little while, we returned to the place from which he had started out on his perilous voyage, and where I had hastily left my horse.  We found the horse and mule quietly grazing with their packs on their backs.  The faithful old mule had the appearance of having been wet, but was now almost dry, yet not so dry, internally, as he had been several days before.</P>
107.sgm:<P>What shall we do now?  We are perhaps two hundred or more miles from any white settlement.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Well, what next?  We could not depend upon fishing and hunting, for we had no fish-hooks, nor means of catching fish, and not more than a dozen loads of shot, and a little powder; so the matter of slaying one of our animal friends was now seriously debated, and, after thoroughly canvassing the whole situation, it was most reluctantly determined that, however hard, this must be done.  No doubt our starving condition at that particular time had some weight in making this decision.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Then the question was, which of the animals shall be sacrificed?  The mule was quite thin, and probably tough, while the little horse was young, and, notwithstanding the many days it had, with all of us, starved and traveled without water, was still quite plump and round, and probably tender, or, at the worst, not so tough as the poor old docile mule; so, at length we decided to kill the innocent little creature, jerk his flesh, pack it on the mule, and thereby try to save our own lives, for a time at least, and endeavor to reach some place of safety.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The matter of slaying the horse was determined by casting lots, neither being willing to perform that melancholy, but now absolutely necessary, act.  It fell to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Field walked several steps away, and turned his back upon the scene until after the fatal shot had been fired; then, after some little time, he entered upon his share of the enforced duty, and, after having removed a portion of the skin, cut off some slices of flesh and brought them to a fire I had started.  We broiled and ate a little of it, not through desire or relish for it, but from a sense of duty, knowing that our lives depended upon it.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It is said that for many years Dr. Franklin refrained from eating flesh, having an idea that it was wrong to slay and eat the flesh of other creatures; but that he changed his mind, and his diet, too, after having seen large fish devour small ones.  I strongly suspect that if the doctor had been with us, or in a like condition, even before his conversion, he would, more than likely have taken a little flesh, even though it had been a piece of his own favorite horse.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I said we only ate a little at first: I only ate a little for two reason; first, I did not relish the food; second, I had heard of persons being killed by eating too much after fasting for a long time, and I had no desire to commit suicide just then.  Field ate too much.  Night came on, work was suspended, and we retired.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Early in the night following that eventful day, my companion began to complain much as he had done on the night after he had eaten the little red berries; but there was no lack of water now, no need of a special rain-cloud.  I got up, heated water in our little camp kettle, applied hot cloths to his aching belly, and did everything else that either of us could think of for his relief.  The pain was intense, and we feared that he would surely die, and earnestly prayed all the rest of the night that he might be relieved, and get well.  Towards morning most violent vomiting came on, which continued for thirty hours, or more.  He was not able to walk for three days, and during that time I nursed him, finished jerking the meat, and built a raft of some partly rotten logs, which I found in the vicinity, on which we floated across the river, on the fourth day after our arrival here.  I also looked to the welfare of the mnle, and prepared some bags in which to carry our jerk.  Manley, I am sure that you know the meaning of the term "jerk" so that a definition of the word is not at all necessary.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The old logs of which the raft was made were remnants of log cabins, a number of which had been built <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When the raft was landed on the west bank, the mule packed, and all about ready to start, I took the long strip of raw-hide from the raft and tied one end of it around the mule's neck, mounted Field on the mule behind the large pack, which made the whole outfit look quite comical indeed.  Before leaving the other side of the river I had discovered that the saddle girth was not very strong, so I cut a wide belt from the hide of the lately slaughtered horse and fitted it to the saddle as a girth, knowing that the pack, now containing all of our goods and a supply of more than a bushel of jerk, would be quite bulky, if not heavy, and more difficult to keep on the back of a mule than it is for the camel to maintain his hump on his back.  This girth afterwards made us two or three pretty substantial meals, as did also the long strip of green, wet hide, one end of which I had tied round the mule's neck, allowing it to drag for a long distance through the hot dry sand.</P>
107.sgm:<P>All being ready, I, as usual, took the lead with my shot gun, which I always carried, but with which I seldom killed anything, on my shoulder.  The old mule followed with his high, towering pack, and Field almost hidden behind.  It was noon, but we did not stop for dinner, but simply reached into one of the great bulging sacks, took out a piece of jerk and ate it as we went marching on; no more trouble now about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The second, third, fourth, and fifth days came and went, and we were trudging on, up the Uinta, through a mostly very barren country, with some little rich and fertile land.  We saw signs of Indians often, but no Indians.  There was much cottonwood, but little other timber.  We saw some fish in the river which we coveted, but could not get.  The main course of this river is from north-west to south-east.  We traveled most of the way to the fort on Indian trails, some of which were much worn, but mostly at some much earlier period.  Of course we had plenty of good water, and food, such as it was.  Field did not walk two miles during those five days, but seemed to be fattening fast.  I sometimes thought he might be just a little lazy, but I never told him so, for I realized that he had recently had a severe tussel with death.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Early in the morning of the sixth day we arrived at the abandoned old fort.  There were only three log buildings, and they were in the shape of three sides of a hollow square, with port-holes on the outer faces of the buildings, and doors entering each of them from the hollow square or court.  Facing the vacant side of the court, the port-hole from which I shot the wolf on the night after we had killed the mule, would be on right hand side.  We were unable to determine whether this fort had been constructed and occupied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Having no means of subsistance here we soon decided to push on towards Fort Bridger, and, after resting a few hours set out following the larger fork of the river which comes almost directly from the north.  We now believed that we were almost, if not exactly, due south of Fort Bridger.  The river is small, and very crooked; we crossed it many times within three days, and, at the end of that time, found ourselves in the mouth of a rocky can&tilde;on, and after struggling for one whole day, we came to where the steep, high, stone walls closed the little river in on both sides, rendering it impossible for us to proceed any further.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We were now nearly out of food; the jerk was almost gone.  A council was held, and it was decided that we should return to the fort and take chances of being rescued, or scalped by some roving band of reds, or starving to death.  We at once set out on our return, full of disappointment and melancholy forebodings.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The next day found us without food: and now came into use the long, narrow strip of raw-hide which first bound together the old, rotting logs of which the raft was made, then to secure the mule of nights.  It was now almost as hard as bone, and nearly round, having been dragged through the hot sand while it was yet green and wet, closed up like a hollow tube with sand inside.  Two or three yards of it at a time, was cut into pieces about five inches long, the hair singed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Another consultation was now held, and the question was--what shall we do now?  We were again, apparently, at the starting point of another long, enforced fast.  Our path seemed hedged in.  The prospect was, indeed, very gloomy.  Our only reasonable hope for even the temporary prolongation of our lives was centered in our ever faithful, and always reliable old mule.  We revolted at the idea of killing and eating him, but the last bit of the girth was gone.  After canvassing the whole situation over and over, again and again, we finally, but most reluctantly decided to kill the mule, and preserve all the soft parts, even the skin with all of its old scars, and then gather in whatever else we could find, and stay here until spring, or until good fortune might afford us some means escape; till some Moses might come and lead us out of this wilderness, notwithstanding the fact that we had not borrowed any jewelry which we had failed to return.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There were signs of wolves in that vicinity, and it was decided that the mule be slain about ten paces distant and directly in front of one of the port-holes of the fort. with the idea that wolves might smell the blood and come there and subject themselves to being shot, and thereby afford us a chance to increase our stock of winter supplies in the form of wolf steak, or jerk.  Accordingly the victim was lead to the spot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>My now only living associate ridiculed the idea of killing wolves, and insisted that the flesh could not be eaten, stating the fact that even hogs would not eat the dead body of a dog, and insisted that a dog was only a tamed wolf.  I reminded him of a cat which had been eaten.  He finally agreed that, if I killed a wolf, he would get up and dress it, but said most emphatically that he would not sit up and watch for it; so he went to bed, that is, rolled himself up in a blanket on the ground in front of a good fire inside of the fort, and went to sleep, while I sat with my rather untrustworthy double barreled shot-gun protruding through the port-hole in full view of the spot before indicated.  The night was clear, and the moon was shining in full splendor.  It was probably eleven o'clock; Field had been snoring for a long time, when I heard something in the tall, dry grass, and soon a large, brownish-gray wolf came into full view, with head up, apparently sniffing, or smelling, and cautiously approaching the fatal spot.  When he reached it, and began to lick up the blood which was still on the surface of the ground, standing with his left side toward the fort, and in full view, I took deliberate aim, and fired, and he fell upon the ground without making any considerable noise.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The tired, sleeping man was aroused by the report of the gun, and rushed into the room where I was in great excitement, thinking, perhaps, that some enemy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>After dressing it by the light of the moon assisted by a torch, we retired.  On viewing the plump body next morning Field exclaimed, "That's another God-send!" and notwithstanding his opinion that wolf could not be eaten, he found that wolf to be the best food we had eaten since we had assisted Walker and his tribe in eating the mountain sheep.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The French may eat their horses, but I do not want more horse flesh.  The old mule made fair but quite coarse beef.  While out on this little pleasure(?) excursion we ate horse, mule, wolf, wild-cat, mountain sheep, rose seed buds, raw-hide, a squirrel, fatty matter from the sockets of the mule's eyes and the marrow from his bones; but that ham of wild-cat was certainly the most detestable thing that I ever undertook to eat.  The marrow from the mule's bones was a real luxury.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now had a pretty good stock of food, such as it was, but not enough to carry us through the winter on full rations; therefore we determined to try to add to it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Next day came my turn to hunt.  I took a lunch, as he had done, consisting of jerked mule.  I did not tell him so, but I had determined to make an excursion up the river to a point where we had seen some fresh trails and deer tracks some days before.  When I was putting up my lunch my friend intimated that I was taking a very large amount for one lunch, but I told him that I might stay out late and that I did not intend to starve.  I went, stayed all day, all night, and part of the next day, and returned as he had done, tired and discouraged, not having seen anything worth bringing in.  In the evening of the first day out I found a trail which appeared to have been used daily by deer going to and from the river.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It occurred to me that they might go out early in the morning, so I secreted myself within gun shot of the trail behind an old, moss-covered log where I slept comfortably; and when it was light enough in the morning to see a deer, I leveled my gun across the log in a position commanding the trail and waited and watched until nine o'clock, but nothing came upon that pathway that morning. After getting tired of watching and waiting I went down to the trail where, to my astonishment, I found the fresh tracks of a large bear which must have passed by that way while I was sleeping.  As a rule I do not like to be treated discourteously, but in this instance I felt glad that this stranger had passed me by.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On arriving at the fort late in the evening I found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I was much discouraged by our failures in hunting, and after a lengthy discussion we decided to make another attempt to cross tht mountains and escape from what then seemed to us certain starvation.  This was Thursday night and we set Monday as the time for starting.  By Saturday night everything was in readiness for the start and Sunday we devoted to Bible reading, for we each still had a pocket Bible.  As much of the flesh of the wolf and the lamented mule as we thought we could carry had been thoroughly jerked, and finding that we would not be overburdened by it, we economized by roasting and eating little scraps of flesh, the marrow from the bones, and even the head of the mule was roasted, the fragments of flesh scraped off and eaten, and Field found a rich fatty substance in behind the eyes, which he ate.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We had a canteen in which our powder was carried, but the powder was nearly all gone so we emptied it and used the canteen to carry water in.  Early Monday morning we loaded ourselves, mostly with jerked mule and wolf, leaving many useful things behind, bid adieu to Fort Uinta and took up our line of march rather reluctantly.</P>
107.sgm:<P>My companion was not strong and we soon found it expedient for me to take on part of his burden.  We rested often and yet long before night he became so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Another day was passed without any unusual occurence; we traveled and ate at the same time as usual.  Another day of pretty hard travel over sandy plains and rocky hills brought us to the foot of the mountain where we had plenty of good water and an abundance of fuel.  A little sprinkle of rain early in the evening was the first we had seen since the memorable night after Field had eaten the little red berries.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Early Saturday morning we filled our canteen with water and started up the mountain.  I had been carrying most of the jerk, but the stock was running down quite rapidly.  My companions bag now being almost empty, and as he had little else to carry while I had the gun and some other things, including his heavy overcoat, I divided the jerk, putting about half of it into his sack.  All day long we were climbing the mountain.  Late in the afternoon I was several rods ahead of Field when he called to me to stop: I did so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We had always slept together except when he was sick and the night I had left him alone at the fort.  Some time in the night I became thirsty and got up and procured some snow, put it in our only tin cup and set it on some live coals to melt and went to sleep. The snow melted, the water evaporated, the solder melted and left the tin.  While I slept, my dumb friend woke up thirsty, took the tin cup, filled it with snow and put it on coals.  The snow melted and the water run out on the coals; his tongue let loose and he then denounced me as a knave, an ass, a fool, an unregenerate heathen, and what else I don't want to remember.  I woke up alarmed and did not at first fully understand what had created the storm, but after having the bottomless cup dashed at my head I realized the situation, and began to try to apologize and explain the unavoidable and unfortunate circumstance; but no explanation would satisfy his now thoroughly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As we did not rise until late no delay was made, but when each had his bag on his back and a nugget of jerk in his hand we started up the side of the mountain as quiet as two deaf mutes.  There was no water to be had; our camp kettle had been left at the fort, and through my stupidity the cup had become useless, therefore we were obliged to eat the icy snow or endure the thirst.  No new snow had yet fallen in this high altitude although it was now nearing the end of October.  These mountains were then heavily covered with pine and fir but the timber was not large.  In some places where the snow had melted away, short green grass was found quite close to great banks of snow.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At about twelve o'clock we reached the summit of the great Uinta range, and I, being a little in advance of my still mute companion, halted to take a survey of the field before me.  The top of the range here is bare of timber and there was no snow.  When Field came up I broke the silence which had lasted since the little unpleasantness of the night before, by suggesting that we attempt to cross the snow-covered range of mountains which now appeared north of us and probably fifty miles away, through what appeared to be a gap or low place in the great range of mountains.  He replied, "You may go that way if you want to, but I am going this way," pointing in another direction <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This was the last I saw or heard of him until after each of us had undergone many more hardships, so I will now drop my friend but will hereafter devote a chapter to him, and give you an account of his experience as he afterwards gave it to me, detailing an account of many most interesting incidents.  Fortunately we had divided the jerk, for nothing was said at this sudden and unexpected parting about anything which either had in his possession.  I had an idea when I bade him good-by that he would soon turn about and follow me.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After the unceremonious parting I immediately began to descend the north side of the mountain which was very rough, rocky and steep; but down, down, down I went into a deep, dark can&tilde;on where I slept on the leaves under a fir tree, after having taken some landmarks.  When it was light enough to see the objects I had noted to guide me, I set out and spent the day in crossing over hills and through deep can&tilde;ons.  In the evening I arrived at the foot of the range of mountains which I had seen from the point of our parting.  The sun disappeared, dark clouds began to float over the mountains and it was evident that a storm was approaching.</P>
107.sgm:<P>While it was yet light enough I took some landmarks or guiding points; and it was well I did so, for on the following morning when I woke I found it snowing quietly but heavily, and before it was light enough for me to see my guiding objects there must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>All day long I struggled through a dense forest.  Some time in the forenoon I crossed the fresh trail of a large herd of elk which forcibly reminded me that my sack was almost empty, and I vainly wished that one of these wild creatures might come in my way, but I did not dare to follow the herd with the uncertainty of killing one, and the certainty of losing my way this dark, snowy day.  In order to maintain my course during such dark days I was under the necessity of looking ahead and observing trees or other objects in my line of travel.</P>
107.sgm:<P>That night I, as usual, slept under a pine tree where there was no snow.  I saw no sigh of fire in either of these ranges of mountains, nor did I see any signs of Indians on my trip over these two ranges.  The next day as I approached the top of the mountain I found the timber much smaller, and mostly pine.  There is much fertile land in some of the valleys between the two great ranges of mountains.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Early on the following morning I arrived at the bald, snow-covered summit.  On my right and on my left were high, untimbered, snow-covered peaks.  From this point I could overlook a vast territory extending over many hills, valleys, and smaller mountains where there was no snow; in fact, the snow only extended a few miles down the steep sides of the great range.  As a rule there is more timber on the north than on the south side of mountains west of the Rockies; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>One more day's tramping brought me down into a large barren plain where I gathered some dry weeds for a bed, and slept, without food or water; the last bit of the mule or wolf, I know not which, I had eaten during the afternoon.  I had had very little jerk for the last two or three days, and began to wish that I had another horse, mule, or even a wolf.  For many days I had seen no living thing except when I looked into a small glass which I carried in my pocket, and then only saw a familiar shadow.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I spent another day without food, but had plenty of water; another night on a bed of green brush beside a good fire.  The next day was bright and sunny, quite a contrast to the gloomy days I had spent in the mountains.  For want of food I was becoming quite weak and was not able to travel as fast as usual.  During the early part of the day I saw some tracks of an unshod horse, whice renewed my courage and hope of redemption; and at about two o'clock in the afternoon I saw some dark spots on the plain a long distance away, but almost in the direction I was going.  Hoping that these objects might be living creatures, I hurried on for a time, then sat down and after having watched them for a time I found that they changed positions and that satisfied me to a moral certainty that they were living creatures, but what I could not tell.  They might be horses, cattle, elk, deer, antelope or buffalo; but no matter what, I must hurry on and try to reach them before night.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Late in the evening I determined that they were horses but could not yet tell whether they belonged to whites or Indians, or were wild.  As I approached them they stopped grazing and started toward me, but soon disappeared in a deep gulch between us which I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>On first sight of the village, being not more than 200 yards away, my heart fluttered just a little, not knowing whether the savages would scalp me or not; but, notwithstanding my natural cowardice, I at once determined to "beard the lion in his den," and walked as boldly as I could up to the lower end of the row of wigwams.  Within a few feet of the nearest one three young bucks met me and seemed to be anxious to know whence I came and whither I was going; whether right down from Heaven, and if so what was my mission.  They seemed as much surprised at my sudden appearance as I was on coming so suddenly upon them.  My first and most important business was to determine whether they would give me something to eat, or eat me.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As the men, women, and children began to gather around me I heard some one half way up the line of lodges call out saying something which I did not understand, but on looking that way saw a man beckoning to me, as I thought, when the young men motioned for me to move on up the line-  On arriving at the place indicated I found myself in the presence of one whom I then suspected, and afterwards found to be the chief, who extended to his royal right hand and greeted me in a most courteous and polite manner, and then with a graceful wave of his hand and a slight bow indicated that I should precede him at the low open door into his Royal Palace where he very politely introduced me to his wife who proved to be a sensible, clever, courteous woman.  She soon prepared <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>A case of nice new blankets was opened, as it appeared to me, for my especial benefit.  The chief, his lady, two sons almost grown, two or three wolfish looking dogs which forcibly reminded me of Field's terrible scare, and myself made up the number of lodgers in that mansion that night.  Late that night some warriors who had been out on a campaign came home, and learning that there was a stranger within the gates came to the king's palace to see him, and also to report that they had discovered some white barbarians in the vicinity who had dared to enter his domain without a special permit, and that they had sent a message to his highness informing him that they had a good assortment of blankets, cutlery, pins, needles, beads, etc., which his people might need or desire, and also a limited amount of "fire-water," and that they would be pleased to receive his order for anything he might desire.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The fact of the presence of these pale-faces in the vicinity was at once communicated to me, and early on the following morning I was informed that if it was my desire to cut short my stay at the palace, the king would take great pleasure in furnishing me means of conveyance, a proper escort, and a reliable guide who would safely conduct me to the camp of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>In less than two hours we entered the camp of the traders at full speed, dismounted, and fonnd one man, a long Jake from Illinois, who could speak English.  He had two wives, (squaws,) and several children which he claimed, but some of them were quite dark.  His name was John Smith; not a very uncommon one.  He was a very clever man, about 35 years old, was not a mormon, but had taken the women in order to become popular with the Indians and to improve his opportunities for trade.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After getting something to eat, and learning something, through Smith, of my adventures, my escort made ready to return to their camp.  Their trip, as Smith told me, was made solely for my accomodation and now I had nothing with which to compensate tnem; but as they were about to leave I took a large "bandanna," the only one I had left, and tied it around the neck of the chief's son, he being one of the clever escorts.  He at first refused to accept it, but when Smith told him that I desired him to take it as a token of regard, he accepted it with an expression of thanks, and after I had bidden them all good-bye, they rode away as rapidly as we had come.  I will always hold that chief and his people in kindly remembrance.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>All of the other white men with Smith were French, and all had plenty of wives (squaws) and numerous slaves.  The wives were not slaves, but they had slaves all around them.  The whole tribe traveled about and lived much as other tribes did, only much better, for they lived by trading while the others lived by hunting and fishing.  In this camp I ate bread for the first time in many weeks.  At the end of three days after my arrival here a caravan was ready to start for Fort Bridger for winter supplies for the traders.  I was furnished with a good horse and saddle, and Smith, one of the Frenchmen, five slaves, 20 horses, and myself made up the caravan, and on the evening of the third day we reached the fort where I was very kindly received.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Smith was a large man, had a good head, and some cultivation and apparent refinement, and treated his women and children well.  He said he had been to his old home in Illinois since he had entered upon this kind of life, but was not contented there and soon returned to his Indian friends.  He and those Frenchmen were as generous and hospitable as old Southern planters, and their kindness to me will not be forgotten while my memory lasts.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I was well treated at the fort which is 116 miles from the point where the seven dug up the little flatboat from its sandy bed on the fifth day of August, just three months before, since which I had undergone many hardships, took many fearful risks, and traveled more than a thousand miles, far enough to have taken me from Green River to San Francisco.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On the morning of the seventh day of November I started with a Government train for Salt Lake City where I arrived on the fifteenth.  I soon found a home with a prominent mormon, a Scotchman named Archie Gardner, living in the fifth ward, on Mill Creek, one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>He had the largest house in the ward, and the religious services were held there by Bishop Johnson who also acted as Justice of the Peace in that ward.  Gardner's family all ate at the same table over which the first wife presided.  She was, indeed, mistress of the house, the other wives treating her with great respect, and all were, to all outward appearance, quite friendly.  Gardner bestowed much attention on his first wife, though I always suspected that he was just a little more fond of the youngest one, and I did not blame him much for she manifested strong affection for him even in the presence of the others, and yet there was no outward manifestation of jealousy.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The second, or the one I will call the second because she was in age between the others, and was the mother of the third or youngest, a widowed mother and her daughter having been sealed to Gardner at the same time, the first wife having given her consent and standing with them at the triple matrimonial altar, and then and there joining in the sacred ceremony.  As I was about to say, the second wife seemed to be pleased at the manifestation of affection for the common <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Gardner spent most of his leisure time, particularly during the and evening, in his first wife's apartments with her and her children.  He was a very religious man, and always had family prayers before retiring at night, and all persons about the house were expected to join, at least formally, in this service.  The use of profane langnage was not allowed in or adout the house.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Many of the higher church officers were entertained at Gardner's house and table, among whom were Brigham Young, George A. Smith, Heber C. Kimble, George Taylor, and Parley P. Pratt, with all of whom I formed some acquaintance.  Brigham was a dignified, clever gentleman, not austere but kind and affable.  Kimble was also a nice, genteel, genial, redheaded gentleman.  Smith was a heavy man with a very large abdomen, dark hair full beard, exceedingly jovial and apparently always happy.  Pratt was a small, rather slim, quick and athletic man, rather austere, rofined, active and energetic.  Taylor was a large man, hignly intellectual, and rather unsocial.  Kimble was my favorite notwithstanding the fact that he had fifteen wives, mostly young and handsome, all in one house, and my impression is that none of them had any children.  I think it was conceded that his was the finest harem in Utah.  He called me his young Gentile, was very kind and affable, but he never invited me to inspect his harem.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About the first of December, 1849, Field arrived in Salt Lake City, and I will allude to a little matter in which he was concerned, after which I will give you a short account of his trip from the time we parted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>After staying with me for two or three days he found employment in the family of the Apostle John Taylor.  The family consisted of seven wives living in seven different houses.  How many children there were I never knew, but there was one wife who did not have any.  She was a fine specimen of English beauty.  Taylor's women were nearly all English.  It was the business of my friend to cut wood, and do chores generally for the Taylor family living in seven different places at the same time.  Taylor was in Europe that winter looking after the interest of the church, and possibly after a few more wives, and consequently could not, in person, attend to all of the necessities of the seven branches of his family.  In his daily rounds looking after the seven wood-piles and other little matters appertaining to the comfort of the family in so many places Field happened to come in contact with the English beauty, and the result was, mutual love at first sight, notwithstanding the fact that this woman had passed, and taken all of the solemn vows of the Lym house with the Apostle and his six other wives.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I do not think that my English friend had lost one iota of the fond recollection of his long since dead English wife, the picture of whom he still carried near his heart; but, nevertheless, he and this seventh wife of the noted Apostle fell heels over head in love.  Field, as you know, was a well developed, good-looking, intelligent man of forty.  The woman was well developed, good-looking, and as smart as a steel-trap, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Mormon morals, exclusive of polygamy, are very good.  I never saw a drunken man in Salt Lake City, and heard very little profane language there.  The people were industrious and seemed happy.  Their hospitality rivaled that of the old Southern planters, and their charity was equal to that of other Christians.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I will now go back to the place where Field and I separated on the mountain top and give you a short statement as he gave it to me, and while some things may border on the miraculous, and seem somewhat incredible, I do not question the truth of his statements.  When we parted so unexpectedly he had about half of the jerked wolf and mule combined.  I went north while he bore off in a northeasterly direction, and after traveling for three days came to the river at a point above where we lost our flat-boat.  He struggled on up the river without road or trail, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Two days more and his last bit of jerk was gone, starvation began to stare him in the face once more.  He saw signs of Indians having crossed his pathless course which gave him renewed courage.  Soon after starting out next morning he was delighted to see a pony in the distance grazing, and on coming up to it found one of its front legs broken.  This, he said was another God-send.  The poor pony seemed to fear him.  It was probabiy an Indian pony, had its leg broken and was left to die.  He followed it for some time and finally got close to it and fired his revolver at its chest and wounded it, but it then left him with the blood flowing from its wound.  After resting for a time he followed on and soon found it lying down, but not dead.  He told me how innocent and helpless it appeared, and looked at him as if pleading with him not to inflict any more pain; but he felt that his life was in a balance with its, and after a little meditation he put the revolver to its forehead and ended its life and suffering.  Then came the usual process of skinning, cutting up and jerking which took the balance of that day and part of the next.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Eight days more and he was again starving.  On the ninth he arrived at the spot where we had dug up the little ferry-boat which carried the seven adventurers far down the river more than three very long dreary months before.  Snow now covered the entire country, and all emigrants had long since gone by.  His strength was failing fast but it would not do to linger there, so he arose and was about to start when he saw a poor old ox slowly coming towards him, and when it had come up near to him he discovered a wolf not far behind which seemed to be following the ox, but it soon turned and went away.  Night was coming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Field feared that he was not able to catch the ox by the horns and hold it until he could cut its throat, so the next plan was to get hold of the animal's tail with one hand, and with the big knife in the other cut his hamstrings so as to disable him, and then cut his throat.  The ox seemed fond of being rubbed and petted, so after a little time a firm hold on the tail was secured, and the big knife vigorously applied, but it was so very dull that he could not sever the tough old tendons.  After sawing with the dull knife and being literally dragged for some distance, he became so much exhausted that he was obliged to relinquish his hold and see the excited old ox disappear.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In almost complete despair Field spent the night beside a fire under one of those large cottonwoods which I have no doubt you will remember even though it is now more than forty years since you saw them.  He rose early next morning and started out on the well beaten road towards the Golden West, but had only gone a few hundred yards when he was agreeably surprised to again behold the old ox approaching him, but so much exhausted that it could scarcely walk.  The same, or some other, wolf was near by, and had probably followed the poor old ox all night.  When the ox came close to Field the wolf growled and again turned away as on the evening before.  After the wolf had left the ox seemed to be relieved.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It then occurred to the starving emigrant that he had a sharp razor in his "kitt" with which he knew he could cut those tough tendons, provided he could get another hold on that tail.  Field, as you probably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>After a long, much needed rest he cut out a piece of the poor beef, broiled and ate it, and then spent the remainder of the day in hunting out the small, lean muscles that still remained between the skin and bones of the poor old ox.  The poor beef was jerked and put into the sack which on the following morning was thrown upon the back of its owner, and from which he fed for the next six days, at the end of which he arrived at Fort Bridger.  From there he soon obtained a passage for Salt Lake City, arriving there on the second day of December, seventeen days after I had reached there, and finding me as before stated.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some time in the winter we formed an acquaintance of a gentleman named Jesse Morgan, a Gentile, who had left Illinois in the spring of 1849 for California, but for some cause had been delayed and obliged to winter in the city of the Latter Day Saints.  Morgan had a wife, a little child, a wagon and two yoke of oxen, but no food nor money.  Field and I arranged to furnish food for all for the trip from there to Sacramento, and assist in camp duties, drive the team, &amp;c.  We made the trip together and arrived in Sacramento in good condition on the fourth day of July, 1850, and pitched our tent under a large oak tree where the State Capitol now stands.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>I spent five months with a wholesale grocery and miners supply firm, Elder and Smith, Fourth and J streets, Sacramento, and three months in the mines as a drummer, or solicitor and collector for the same firm.  I returned to Sacramento and was almost ready to start home when the Scots River excitement broke out.  I then went to the mines on Trinity River and associated myself in mining with Hiram Gould, a young Presbyterian clergyman who had laid aside the "cloth" for the time and engaged in mining.  I remained in the mines until July fourth, 1851, exactly one year from the time I entered Sacramento, when I started home by way of Niceragua.  In due time, after an interesting trip, I arrived home and again entered upon the study of my chosen profession, graduated from an honorable college, and am now, as you know, practicing my profession on the sea shore.</P>
107.sgm:<P>M. S. MCMAHON.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>STORY OF THE JAYHAWKERS.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the foregoing chapters describing the trip across the deserts and mountains, the author has had occasion many times to refer to the "Jayhawkers."  Their history is in many respects no less remarkable and intensely interesting than that of his own party.  The author has therefore collected many notes and interviews with prominent members and presents herewith the only written history of their travels.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The little train afterward known by this name was made up in the state of Illinois in 1849, of industrious, enterprising young men who were eager to see and explore the new country then promising gold to those who sought.  The young men were from Knoxville, Galesburg and other towns.  Not all were influenced by the desire for gold.  It was said that California had a milder climate and that pleasant homes could there be made, and the long, cold winter avoided.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They placed some of the best men in position to manage for the whole.  The outfit was placed on a steam-boat and transported to Kanesville, on the Missouri River above Council Bluffs.  Some of the company went with the goods while others bought teams and wagons in Western Missouri and drove to the appointed place.  Kanesville was a small Mormon camp, while Council Bluffs was a trading post of a few log cabins on the river bank, inhabited mostly by Indians.  There was no regular ferry at either place, and our party secured a log raft which they used to get their wagons and provisions across, making the oxen swim.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>They asked all the questions they could think of from everyone who pretended to know anything about the great country to the west of them, for it seemed a great undertaking to set out into the land they could see stretching out before them across the river.  Other parties bound the same way, also arrived and joined them.  They chose a guide who claimed to have been over the road before.  When all were gathered together the guide told them that they were about to enter an Indian country, and that the dusky residents did not always fancy the idea of strangers richer than themselves passing through, and sometimes showed out some of the bad traits the Indians had been said to possess.  It would therefote be better to organize and travel systematically.  He would divide the company into divisions and have each division choose a captain, and the whole company unite in adopting some rules and laws which they would all agree to observe.  This arrangement was satisfactorily accomplished, and they moved out in a sort of military style.  And then they launched out on the almost endless western prairie, said then to be a thousand miles wide, containing few trees, and generally unknown.</P>
107.sgm:<P>These Illinois boys were young and full of mirth and fun which was continually overflowing.  They seemed to think they were to be on a sort of every day picnic and bound to make life as merry and happy as it could be.  One of the boys was Ed Doty who was a sort of model traveler in this line.  A camp life suited him; he could drive an ox team, cook a meal of victuals, turn a pan of flap-jacks with a flop, and possessed many other frontier accomplishments.  One day when Doty was engaged in the duty of cooking flap-jacks another frolicsome fellow came up and took off the cook's hat and commenced going through the motions of a barber giving his customer a vigorous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:shampoo, saying:--" <HI REND="italics">I am going to make a Jayhawker out of you, old boy</HI>
107.sgm:."  Now it happened at the election for captain in this division that Ed Doty was chosen captain, and no sooner was the choice declared than the boys took the newly elected captain on their shoulders and carried him around the camp introducing him as the <HI REND="italics">King Bird of the Jayhawkers</HI>
107.sgm:<P>The first few days they got along finely and began to lose all feeling of danger and to become rather careless in their guard duty.  When the cattle had eaten enough and lain down, the guards would sometimes come into camp and go to sleep, always finding the stock all right in the mornfng and no enemy or suspicious persons in sight.  But one bright morning no cattle were in sight, which was rather strange as the country was all prairie.  They went out to look, making a big circuit and found no traces till they came to the river, when they found tracks upon the bank and saw some camps across the river, a mile or so away.  Doty had a small spy glass and by rigging up a tripod of small sticks to hold it steady they scanned the camps pretty closely and decided that there were too many oxen for the wagons in sight.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some of the smartest of them stripped off their their clothes and started to swim the stream, but landed on the same side they started from.  Captain Doty studied the matter a little and then set out himself, being a good swimmer, and by a little shrewd management <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>They could now see that there were two trains on that side and that the farther one had already begun to move and was about a mile in advance of the nearest one, Doty said something must be done, and although they only were clothed in undershirts they approached the nearest camp and were handed some overalls for temporary use.  The men in this camp on hearing about the missing oxen said the fellows in the forward train went over and got them, for, as they said there were no wagons in sight and they must be strays.  He said the forward train was from Tennessee, and that they had some occasion to doubt their honesty and had refused to travel with them any further.  They said they were all old Missonrians, and did not want other people's property and if the boys found their cattle with the Tenneseans, and wanted any help to get them back again to call on them, and putting in some good strong swear words for emphasis.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The boys, barefooted and with only overalls and shirts, started after the moving train which they called to a halt when overtaken.  The coarse grass was pretty hard to hurry through, clothed as they were.  The train men were pretty gruff and wanted to know what was wanted.  Capt. Doty very emphatically told them he could see some of his oxen in their train, and others in the herd, and he proposed to have them all back again.  The Jayhawker boys were unarmed but were in a fighting mood and determined to have the stock at all hazards, and if not peacably, war might commence.  The boys saw that the two trains were of about equal strength, and if worse came to worst they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The Missourians had come up and heard the talk, and some of them went back and helped drive the cattle to the river, and deal out some double shotted thunder against the biggest scamps they had come across.  It was quite a job to get the cattle across the river.  They would go in a little way and then circle round and round like a circus, making no progress.  They finally put a rope on one of them and a man led him as far as he could, which was more than half way, and although they landed a good ways down stream, they got them all across safely, left their borrowed overalls in the hands of their friends, with a thousand thanks for valuable assistance, and plunged into the swift running Platte, and swam back again to the northern side.  They drove the straggling oxen back to camp with a sense of great satisfaction, and in turn received the praise of their friends who said that Ed Doty was the best Jayhawker of the border.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This was the first unpleasantness and they were afterwards more cautious and stood guard all night, watching closely all the time, both night and day, for for any signs of danger.  Thus in time they reached Salt Lake, rather late in the season, but safe and sound, having escaped cholera or other disease, and in good spirits to surmount any further difficulties which might be met.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When the Jayhawkers reached Salt Lake it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The man Williams made for them a map of the proposed route and explained it to them and others who had gathered at Salt Lake, and from the map they could see how much was to be gained in time and distance by taking that route.  A month or two of travel was indeed something to gain, and as the roads seemed similar in quality the reasoning was very plausible.  The map explained all the watering places and favorable things but said nothing about a desert, and as there was no one to tell them any unfavorable side to this plan there were many who quite concluded to go this way, and among those who did so were the Jayhawkers, and the "Williams Short Route" was freely talked about as a settled thing by them.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>They now set about preparing to move.  They sold, traded, and bought oxen till they had the best and fattest teams in Salt Lake Valley; selested good provisions, and plenty of them so as to be safe in case of delay, and contended that nothing could stop them in a country where but little snow could be, and water was as plentiful as shown on the map.  They wanted to reach the gold mines and this was the shortest route and even if it was still considerbly longer than the northern way they said they would rather be moving along and thus gain time than to so long in camp with nothing to do by which they could earn a cent.  There were here in Salt Lake ten times as many men as could find employment, and Brigham's saints would be pretty sure to get all of the odd jobs to the exclusion of the heretics.</P>
107.sgm:<P>To bring the matter to a determination a paper was drawn up for those to sign who wanted to go the southern route and it was pretty generally signed.  The mormon elder, John Hunt, was consulted, and as he seemed to know the general southern route better than any one else, he was prevailed upon to guide the train through on the old Spanish Trail.  This had never been used as a wagon road, but he thought it could be without much difficulty, and he said if they could secure him a fair sized train he would go and conduct them through for ten dollars a wagon.  This proposition was accepted after some consideration, and all who wished to do so were given permission to join the train.  In a few days there were one hundred and seven wagons enlisted for this route, including seven mormons bound for San Bernardino.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Preparations for the trip now began in good earnest, and the Saints were liberally patronized in purchase of flour and meat which were the principal things they had to sell.  As their several wagons were loaded they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The complete organization was divided into seven divisions, each with its captain, and division No. 1 was to lead the march the first day and then fall to the rear while No. 2 took the advance, and so continued till all had taken their turn.  The leading party was to guard and care for the cattle and deliver them in the morning.  The regulations were read aloud to the captains, and this rather large army of men, women and children, with about five hundred head of stock, moved out very systematically.  It would sometimes be fully ten o'clock before the rear division could make a start, and correspondingly late before they could get up with the main camp at night.  They got along very well, but cleaned the country of grass for some distance each side of the trail, as they swept along.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About the first of November Capt. Smith overtook us with the pack train, and camped with us at night.  He formed many acquaintances and told them he was going to take a shorter route and save five hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>At the end of three days of travel on the Smith trail they came to the top of a long steep hill.  The trail went down and down, and they see no way of crossing the terribly deep can&tilde;on that was before them.  So they went into camp and sent explorers out to investigate and find a crossing if possible.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On the second day the explorers began to return with very unfavorable reports, and many who found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Acting on this report about twenty wagons, including the Jayhawkers, concluded to go ahead.  "We can beat the other fellows a month," said they, and so they hitched up and pulled out in a northerly direction, feeling in good spirits and hopeful of success.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They named this place Mt. Misery.  While camped here a lone and seemingly friendless man died and was buried.  None seem now to remember his name, but think he was from Kentucky.  He was low with consumption and not strong enough to endure the hardships of the journey.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About the third night the Jayhawkers were overtaken by seven more wagons owned by A. Bennett and friends, J. B. Arcane and family, two men named Earhart and a son of one of them, and one or two other wagons.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The Jayhawker's train was made up of men from many states, but seemed well united and was as complete as when they first started.  The Author was with the party that came up in the rear, which had started later but traveled faster on account of having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Among those with this train was Rev. J. W. Brier, his wife and three children.  He objected to being turned back and said he did not want to be assisted, but would go with them and do his part and take care of himself.  The Author listened to the various speeches without speaking and became satisfied that it would end in every one looking out for himself in case of hard times.  He went over to their camp again the next night and wished to ask them why they were steering so nealy due north.  He said to them that they were going toward Salt Lake rather than California, and that the Bennet party did not feel inclined to follow them any farther in that direction.  They replied that their map told them to go north a day or more and then they would find the route as represented.  They would then turn west and reach Owen's Lake and from there there would be no more trouble.  The Jayhawker crowd seemed to think they could go anywhere and no difficulty could happen which they couldn't overcome.  Bennett's little train turned west from this point and the Jayhawkers went on north, but before night they changed their minds and came following on after Bennett whom they overtook and passed, again taking the lead.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>Thus far the country had been well watered and furnished plenty of grass, and most of them talked and believed that this kind of rolling country would last all the way through.  The men at leisure scattered around over the hills on each side of the route taken by the train, and in advance of it, hunting camping places and making a regular picnic of it.  There were no hardships, and one man had a fiddle which he tuned up evenings and gave plenty of fine music.  Joy and happiness seemed the rule, and all of the train were certainly having a good time of it.</P>
107.sgm:<P>But gradually there came a change as the wagon wheels rolled westward.  The valleys seemed to have no streams in them, and the mountain ranges grew more and more broken, and in the lower ground a dry lake could be found, and water and grass grew scarce--so much so that both men and oxen suffered.  These dry lake beds deceived them many times.  They seemed as if containing plenty of water, and off the men would go to explore.  They usually found the distance to them about three times as far as they at first supposed, and when at last they reached them they found no water, but a dry, shining bed, smooth as glass, but just clay, hard as a rock.  Most of these dry lakes showed no outlet, nor any inlet for that matter, though at some period in the past they must have been full of water.  Nothing grew in the shape of vegetables or plants except a small, stunted, bitter brush.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Away to the west and north there was much broken country, the mountain ranges higher and rougher and more barren, and from almost every sightly elevation there appeared one or more of these dry lake beds.  One night after about three days of travel the whole of the train of twenty seven wagons was camped along the bank of one of these lakes, this one with a very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The Author came into camp about nine o'clock in the evening after climbing many peaks and taking a survey of the surrounding country with a field glass.  Men from nearly every mess came to him to inquire what he had seen.  They asked all sorts of questions and wanted an opinion as to the advisability of trailing across the prairie directly west, which then seemed easy.  They were told that from what could be seen from the summit of buttes both north and south of the camp, ranging a hundred or so miles in almost every direction, it was believed no water could be found, between the present camp and a range of mountains which could be seen crossing the route far to the west.  "Well," said Capt. Doty of the Jayhawkers, "I don't like to hear such discouraging talk from Manley, but I think we will have to steer straight ahead.  The prospect for water seems to be about the same, west or south, and I cannot see that we would better ourselves by going north."  When morning came Capt. Doty and his party yoked up and set out straight across the desert, leaving seven wagons of the Bennett party still in camp.</P>
107.sgm:<P>For some time all of us had seen in the range ahead an appearance of a pass, or lower place in the mountain, and we had got to calling it Martin's Pass, naming it after Jim Martin.  There was a snow-capped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Five days they traveled, without finding water, and small supply they took along had been consumed.  For lack of water they could not eat or sleep.  The oxen gathered round the little fire and seemed to beg for water, they had no cud to chew unless it was the cud of disappointment.  The range of mountains they had been aiming for still seemed far away and the possible show for reaching it seemed very poor indeed, and the prospect of any water hole between them and the mountains poorer yet.  Hope was pretty near gone.  Martins mess unyoked their oxen from the wagons, put some small packs on their own backs, and loaded some upon the backs of the oxen, and turned south toward the nearest snowy mountain they could see, the same one towards which the Bennett party steered from the lake camp.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The Doty party kept their courage longer and kept on straight ahead for another day, and then camped, almost without hope.  No rest came to them, nor sleep.  Towards morning as they stood around the fire a stray cloud appeared and hid the stars, and shortly after began to unload a cargo of snow it carried.  They spread out every blanket, and brushed up every bit they could from the smooth places, kindled a little fire of brush under the camp kettles and melted all the snow all of them could gather, besides filling their mouths as fast as ever they could, hoping that it would fall in sufficient quantities to satisfy themselves and the oxen, and quench their dreadful thirst.  Slowly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>They decided at first that ihey had better follow the stream southward, but after a little time, feeling the sickness caused by the water, they saw it was no advantage and turned west again, bearing to the north toward a sort of pass they could now see in the mountains in that direction.  This stream is now known as the Amargosa, or bitter, river.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The new direction in which they marched gave them an up-hill route for thirty or forty miles, rough and barren, with no water or grass.  There was no road or trail to follow, the oxen were as weak as their owners from drinking the bitter water, and the road needed some clearing and breaking in places before the wagons could pass.  They moved quite slowly and reached the summit on the second night with the loss of a single ox.  The Author would say here that this was the last ox which was allowed to die without using the flesh for food, and it was from this same one he cut a steak to eat on Christmas eve, 1849.</P>
107.sgm:<P>From the summit they took a way down a dark, deep can&tilde;on having a steep slope, and very rocky and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As the Jayhawkers drove out of this Furnace Creek Can&tilde;on the valley into which they came was very narrow, the high, snow-capped mountain before them seemed steeper and rougher than ever, so steep in fact that it could not be ascended by a man on foot.  A short distance below could be seen a lake containing water, and the pass toward which they had been directing their course seemed to the north of them.  They therefore turned their course in that direction.  The road was sandy, and the brush that grew on it was only a few inches high.  On their way they came to an abandoned Indian camp occupied by one poor old blind red man.  He would hold his mouth open like a young bird begging for something to eat.  One man dropped kernels of parched corn into his mouth, but instead of eating them he quickly spit them out; it seemed that he had been left to die and could not or would not.  His hair was white as snow.  His skin looked about the color of a smoked ham, and so crippled was he that he crawled about like a beast, on all fours.  It was barely possible that he had been left to watch, and that his great infirmities were only pretended, but they seemed genuine enough, and were doubtless true.  They left him in peacable possession of the spot and traveled on.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They approached the base of the mountain in front of what they had all along supposed to be a pass, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The party had been brave till now, but when they realized that they must make pack animals of themselves, and trudge on, they knew not where, perhaps to only a lingering death, the keen edge of disappointment cut close, and they realized how desolate they were.  They felt much inclined to attribute all their troubles to the advice of the Mormons.  Some said that the plan was thus to wipe so many more hated Gentiles out of the way, and wishes were deep and loud that the Mormons might all be buried out of sight in the Great Salt Lake.  They thought Lot's wife must have been turned to salt in the neighborhood, everything was so impregnated with saline substances, and the same result might come to them.  But the inherent manhood of the little band came to their relief and they determined not to die without a struggle for escape and life.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They killed some of their oxen, and took the wood of their wagons and kindled fires to dry and smoke the flesh so it would be light and easy to carry with them.  They scattered all surplus baggage around the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The Jayhawkers were still making their preparations when the Martin party and Rev. J. W. Brier and family came up to their camp, having taken a circuit around farther to the south.  The Martin party was already in marching order and this camp was so poor that they did not wait, but gave all their oxen they had left to Mr. Brier and said they could get on faster without them.  They took a straight course over the hills and up the mountain, saying they believed they had provisions enough upon their backs to last them through, and that nothing should check their progress till they reached the other side, where they said were fertile valleys and plenty of chance to live.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The Doty party, or Jayhawkers, when they were ready started first a northerly course to find a more favorable place to cross the range and drove their oxen with them, each with a small pack.  They soon came to some good water, and after refreshing themselves turned westward to cross the great mountain defore them.  Both men and oxen were shod with mocassins made of raw-hide to protect the feet against sharp rocks.  They could see no trail but merely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When it was getting dark they were almost at the summit, but there was no good camping place, and they saw a small fire light at a little distance and went to it, finding a poor lone camper taking care of himself.  They camped here also.  It seemed as if there were many men from the various parties scattered all around the country, each one seeking out the path which seemed to suit best his tender feet or present fancy, steering west as well as mountains and can&tilde;on would permit, some farther north, some farther south and generally demoralized, each thinking that as a last resort he would be able to save his own life.  It seemed to be a question of will and endurance, strong hearts and keeping the body in motion.  The weak and faint must fail, and the strong said to the weak;--"Stand up; be a man; don't fall down;" and so the strong spurred on the weak and kept them up as best they could.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Down the mountain they went, on the west side and instead of Los Angeles, which some of them expected to see, they saw only a salt lake in the midst of a barren desert valley and their route lay directly across it.  They traveled in several directions as they went across.  One went across the valley on a strip of dried mud between two small lakes.  Others followed down along the east side of the lake near the foot of the mountain, where they found some good water and an old Indian camp.  They found some mosquite beans, which they did not know were of much use, but really, if they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Capt. Doty's mess crossed between the lakes on the strip of dry mud while others went on where it was still soft and left marks of their foot-steps.  Both parties turned up a small can&tilde;on on the west side and began the ascent of a black and barren range, containing no water, but in the bed of the ravine near the summit they found some damp sand and tried to dig with their hands to find some of the precious fluid.  But no water came, and in the morning one of their number Mr. Fish died and was left unburied on the barren rocks.  No doubt his bones could be found there to-day.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Turning west again, they had a down grade over a most barren and rocky road for many miles The prospect from this point was any thing but cheering.  To the left a large lake could be seen, and from their previous experience they concluded it to be salt, and the valley they were coming to was very sandy, and the hardest sort of footing for men and animals as weak as those of the party were.  It must be crossed before there was any possibility of water, and when across it was quite uncertain whether they could obtain any.  One of their number had already died of thirst and fatigue and all were suffering terribly.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The valley seemed about eight miles across, and before they were half way over Mr. Ischam, one of their party sat down, perfectly exhausted, and said he could not take another step.  No one was able to assist him or give him a drink of water, and they could not tarry to see if rest would refresh him.  They could only look sadly at him and and pass on in silence, for he seemed fast wasting away.  The thought came to everyone that perhaps it would be his turn next to sit down and see the others pass on.  In fact the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Those who had no cattle took different courses to reach the hills and mountains on the west side of this valley, hoping there to find water and signal to the others if they were successful.  All except the two men managed to get across, and finding no water the packs were taken from the oxen and they were driven to the lake which appeared on the left.  Reaching the lake they found the water red in color and so strong of alkali that no man or beast could take a single swallow.  They drove the cattle back again with sad hearts, and almost despondent, for in the rough, dry rocks of the mountains there seemed no signs of water.  But they were saved again.  Those who bore farthest to the right in their course to the mountains, steering toward a pile of tremendous rocks, found a little stream of good water which flowed only a short distance and then sank into the sand.  This good news spread rapidly, and all soon gathered at the little streamlet.  It was slow work getting water for them all, but by being patient they were all filled up.  Some took two canteens of water and hurried back to Mr. Ischam, whom they found still alive but his mouth and throat so dry and parched, and his strength so small that he was unable to swallow a single drop, and while they waited he breathed his last.  With their hands and feet they dug away the sand for a shallow grave, placed the body in it, covered it with his blankets, and then scraped the sand back over again to make a little mound over their dead comrade.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>There was so little feed for oxen that they could gain no strength, but were much refreshed by the water and could still travel.  One was killed here, and the meat, poor as it was, gave the men new strength.  They all guessed it to be at least fifty miles to the base of the great snow mountain before them, and what there was between no one could tell, for there were hills and valleys between.  Leaving the little spring their course led first up a small can&tilde;on, and when they reached the summit of the ridge a small valley covered with sage brush was before them, the most fertile spot they had seen for a long time.  The descent to this valley was through another can&tilde;on which was filled with large boulders for much of the way, and over these it seemed almost impossible to get the cattle.  They had seen no water since leaving the little stream, and the plain they were now approaching seemed thirty miles wide, with no signs of streams or springs.  However just at the foot of the can&tilde;on they found a small water hole, but the water was so salt that even the oxen refused to drink it.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They decided to make a push across the plain and endeavor to reach the other side in two days, and they knew there could be no water on its even expanse.  The plain seemed quite an up grade from where they were to the base of the mountain.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On the second day they all reached the point they were aiming for except Rev. J. W. Brier and family, and they came in one day behind.  Every one looked out for himself and had no time nor strength to spare to help others.  Here on a small bench overlooking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Mr. and Mrs. Brier had some pretty hard struggles to get along, and everyone of this party has ever been loud in praise of the energy and determination of the brave little woman of the Brier mess.  All agreed that she was by far the best man of the party.  She was the one who put the packs on the oxen in the mourning.  She it was who took them off at night, built the fires, cooked the food, helped the children, and did all sorts of work when the father of the family was too tired, which was almost all of the time.  They all said that he, like other ministers, had fallen out with any work but that of the tongue, and seemed perfectly willing for some one else to do the work.  Mrs. Brier had the sympathy of everyone, and many would have helped her if they could.  She waited on her big husband with untiring zeal, and still had time to care for the children with all of a mother's love.  It seemed almost impossible that one little woman could do so much.  It was entirely to her untiring devotion that her husband and children lived.  Mr. Brier had but  ittle sympathy or help from any one but her.  Some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Looking back on the scenes of that day, the way the selfish dispositions of people were made manifest is almost incredible.  Every one seemed to think only of saving his own life, and every spark of human sympathy and kindness seemed extinguished.  A man would drink the last cup of water even if his neighbor choked.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This camp was the same one which the Author mentions in his narrative, to which Rogers and himself crept so silently and carefully at night to ascertain whether the occupants were friends or foes.  They were much pleased to find it was Capt. Doty of the Jayhawkers and his mess who had remained behind to dry the flesh of an ox they had killed when it could travel no longer.  The others had gone on ahead, following the trail, leaving these to follow.  They staid here two days, and it was while waiting here that the Rev. J. W. Brier came up as before related, and they all went on together when they moved.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Nearly every man had carried a gun in the early days of the expedition, hoping to kill game, and to be well armed in case of attack by Indians or enemies, but they began to find that they were useless incumbrances, and first one and then another would throw away his fire-arms as a burden too great for a weary man to bear.  There was no game, and the poor weak <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>As they slept they dreamed the most tantalizing dreams of clear, rippling brooks of water; of wading knee deep in rhe most beautiful of ponds; of hoisting the old moss-covered bucket from some deep old well; of breaking and eating great white loaves of bread; of surrounding the home table with its load of steaming beans and bacon, fragrant coffee and delicious fried cakes.  With such dreams of comfort, they awoke to realize more more fully the terrors of their dry and swollen throats, the discomfort of empty stomachs.  Water and food were the great riches of life to them then.  Had piles of twenty-dollars pieces been on the one hand and a bucket of cold water on the other there is no doubt of the choice that would have been made.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Seven or eight miles from this place were two branches to the trail.  One led into the mountains toward the snow, and the other still bore southerly.  They could see that some other party who had no oxen to drive had taken the more northerly route, which seemed to lead more directly in the direction of the mines of California.  Those who came later, with animals thought it would be folly to try to cross the deep snow they could see on the mountains before them and concluded that it would be safer to the south of the snow line, braving the danger of scarcity of water, rather than to perish in the snow.  Capt. Doty was willing to attempt the northern branch of the trail if the others so decided, but the general feeling was in favor of the more plain and open trail which led away from the snows.  It is known that this Northern branch led over what is known as Walker's Pass, coming out at the Kern River.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Taking then the southern branch, the party passed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>They expected they would find much difficulty on account of water, as their experience had taught them that it was very scarce in such locations, but this trail when they came to follow it led them for eight or ten miles over a level piece of high land that looked as if it might have slid down from the high mountain at some day long past, and this easily traveled road brought them at last to the top of a steep hill, down which they went and found near the bottom, a small weak stream of water, but no grass, and but little fuel of any kind.  (This was the same camp at which Rogers and the Author overtook the advance party.)  Here they killed an ox, which made a good meal for all, and not much remained over, for many had no oxen and were getting out of all sorts of provisions.  They depended much on the generosity of their fellow travelers.  Many of them stood back, and waited till those who owned the food were satisfied, and were very grateful when they were invited to take even the poorest morsels.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They could count the oxen and make a pretty close guess of how many days they could live in this way, even with the best probable fortune favoring them, and to the best of them there was but little hope, and to those who were dependent it seemed as if the fate of Fish and Ischam might be theirs almost any day.  When the Author conversed with them at this camp he found them the first really heart-broken men he had ever seen  Some were men of middle age who had left good farms that gave them every need, and these they had left to seek a yellow phantom, and now there were yellow phantoms of a different sort rearing their dreadful forms all about them.  They called themselves foolish gold hunters to forsake a land of plenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>When they left this camp in the can&tilde;on the trail was between two high rocks, rising like walls on each side.  In one place they were so near together that an ox could hardly squeeze through.  In a very short time they came to a bunch of willows growing out in the open ground.  The little bunch or grove was forty or fifty feet in diameter, and in the center was a spring of water.  The center of the clump had been cleared out, making a sort of corral of bushes, enclosing the spring.  On the outside there was quite a little growth of grass, which was a fortunate thing for their poor beasts.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Away in the distance, rising up a little against the western sky they could see mountains with snow on them, and it seemed as if it were a journey of five or six days to reach them, but the good water and the grass bolstered up their spirits wonderfully for there was present relief and rather better prospects ahead.  They were pretty sure that the wide plain held no water.  Everything that would hold the precious drink was filled, and the best preparations made for what they believed was to be the final struggle for life.  They rested one day and prepared for the very worst that might before them.  Early in the morning when they could see plainest, they looked across the expanse before them and really it did not seem quite so barren, hot and desolate as the region they had passed, and they talked and hoped that this would be the last desert they must cross and that Los Angeles lay just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Early in the morning, much refreshed, they started on again with rather sober faces.  That night one man insisted on sleeping with his clothes and boots all on, for he said if he died he wanted to die in full dress.  Another day and some thought they could see trees on the mountains ahead of them, and this renewed their courage greatly.  In the middle of the day they suffered greatly with the heat and the dry air seemed to drink up every bit of moisture from everybody.  When they killed an ox they saved the blood and ate it.  The intestines, cleaned with the fingers, made food when roasted on the fire, and pieces of hide, singed and roasted, helped to sustain life.  The water was nearly all gone.  Only power of will and strength of body had kept any.  Capt. Asa Haines sat down one day and said he could go no farther, but his comrade, L. D. Stephens, who had kept a little rice, a little tea, and a dry crust of bread for time of need, took a little water in a cup and made some soup which he forced his friend to eat and soon he revived and was able to move on again.  That was true friendship.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The next night Stevens himself awoke and seemed perishing with thirst.  He crawled over to Doty's bed and begged for just one sup of water, Doty in the goodness of his heart, took his canteen from under his head divided the last few drops with him and the death which threatened him was held off.  Capt. Doty found it necessary to talk very seriously to those who mourned and talked of failing  He never gave up in the least.  He encouraged all to make every step they could and know no such word as fail.  When they said that death would be easier than life, he told them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Their water was all gone, every drop, and still the foot-hills seemed far away.  The supply of meat ran out.  Tom Shannon killed an ox, and when those who had cattle had taken some, the others who had none were told to divide the rest.  There was no water to dress or cook it, but it helped to sustain life.  Entrails, bones, sinews, bits of hide and everything was used.  One man was seen with an ox horn, burning the end in the fire and gnawing away at the softened portion.  It was something terrible to see human beings eating what the dogs would cast aside.  One man saw some moist looking earth on the shady side of a bunch of brush and he dug down and got a handful of it, from which he tried to suck the moisture.  He failed, and the bad taste of the earth made him suffer more than before.  Many bones of horses and cattle now appeared along the trail.  They seemed to have been there a long time, and some were partly decayed.  On this waterless stretch one of their number, a Frenchman, wandered off, searching for water in little hollows or puddles, and never came back to camp.  He was supposed to be dead, but ten years afterward some surveyors found him in a Digger Indian camp.</P>
107.sgm:<P>An idea how selfish men will get under such circumstances may be gained by relating that on one occasion when an ox was killed the liver was carried to the brave little Mrs. Brier for herself and children, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>But there were true men, true, charitable hearts in that little band.  Though death stared them in the face they never forgot their fellow men.  As they slowly crawled along many would wander here and there beside the trail and fall behind, especially the weaker ones, and many were the predictions that such and such a one would never come up again, or reach the camp.  Then it was that these noble souls, tired almost beyond recovery themselves, would take water and go back to seek the wandering ones and give them drink and help them on.  More than one would thus have perished in the sands but for the little canteen of water carried back by some friend.  Only a swallow or two would often revive their failing strength and courage, and with slow step they would move on again.  How much good a crust of bread would have done such a poor creature.  Bread there was none--nothing but the flesh of their poor oxen, wasted and consumed by days of travel and lack of food till it had no goodness in it.  Even the poor oxen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Already five or six days had passed since they left the camp at the willows where they had their last supply of water, and still they were on the desert.  The journey was longer than they had expected, partly owing to the slow progress they had made for there were frequent stops to rest or they could not move at all.  The mountains seemed nearer every day, and the trees were outlined more plainly each morning as they started out.  Capt. Doty used every circumstance to encourage them.  He would remark upon the favorable signs of water in the hills before them, and the hope that there might be some game to provide better meat than that of starving oxen.  Thus he renewed their hope and kept alive their courage.  He must have had a great deal of fortitude to hide his own sad feelings, for they must as surely have come to him as to any one, and to keep up always an air of hope, courage, and determination to succeed.  If he had been a man of less spirit and good judgment it is very probable that many more would have been left by the wayside to die.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About this point the trail which had been growing fainter and fainter, seemed to vanish entirely.  One could move in almost any direction to right or left as he chose, and because of this, previous travel had doubtless scattered and thus left no trail.  It was thought best that this company should spread out and approach the mountains in as broad a front as possible so as to multiply the chances of finding water, and so they started out in pairs, some to the right and some to the left, each selecting the point where water seemed most probable.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Tom Shannon and a companion were one of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:pairs.  Tom was one of the few who still stuck to his gun, for he felt that it might save his life sometime.  He and his companion separated about a mile, each looking at all points that showed the least sign of water.  Suddenly a jack rabbit started from a bush, the first game Shannon had seen for more than a month.  He pulled the rifle on him as he was making some big bound and had the good luck to nearly split his head open.  Rushing up to his game he put his mouth to the wound and sucked the warm blood as it flowed, for it was the first liquid he had seen; but instead of allaying his fearful thirst it seemed to make it worse and he seemed delirious.  A little way up the gulch he saw a rock and a green bush and steered for it, but found no water.  He sat down with his back to the rock, his rifle leaning up near by, pulled his old worn hat over his eyes, and suffered an agony of sickness.  He realized that life was leaving his body, and there he sat with no power to move and no desire to make an effort.  It seemed as if he could see plain before him all the trail from where he sat, back over all the deserts, mountains and rivers to the old place in Illinois.  He entirely forgot the present, and seemed unconscious of everything but the pictures of the past.  The mind seemed growing freer from its attachment to the body and at liberty to take in his whole past life, and bright scenes that had gone before.  How long he sat thus he knows not.  His companion was fortunate in finding water, and when he had refreshed himself he set out to find poor Tom of whom he could see nothing.  Going toward where he heard the shot he followed on till he saw him at the rock, almost doubled up, with his face concealed by his hat.  "O! Tom!" said he, but there came no answering motion, and going nearer he called again and still no answer and no sign.  Poor Tom had surely passed on to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Quickly holding back his head he poured water between his lips from his canteen and it was swallowed.  Then a little more, and then some more, and life seemed coming back again into a troublesome world, bringing pain with it, and the consciousness of a suffering body.  After a time he felt better and was helped to his feet, and together they went to the water hole where they made a fire and cooked the rabbit which was the first savory meat they had tasted for a long time.  Tom felt better and told his companion how he felt after tasting the warm rabbit's blood, and how he had nearly gone off into the sleep of death.</P>
107.sgm:<P>"If you had been a little longer finding me," said Tom, "I should soon have been out of this sad world."  They fired a signal gun, looked down at the bones of the rabbit, drank more water, and gradually felt new life coming to them.  The mountains seemed more fertile, and there was brush and grass near by, timber farther up, and still higher a cap of snow extending far along the range, both north and south.  Towards night on this eventful day the scattered travelers began to come slowly into camp attracted by the guns and the smoke of the fire made by those who first found the water.  Some were nearly as far gone as Tom Shannon was, and great caution had to used in giving them water on their empty stomach.  One man named Robinson became so weak before he got near camp that his companions placed him on the back of one of the animals and a man walked on either side to catch him if he fell off.  When they got within a mile of the water he insisted that he was strong enough to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:take care of himself and not be watched every minute, and they relaxed their vigilance.  He soon fell off, and when they went to him he refused to be put back on the animal again or to walk any farther.  "Just spread my blankets down," said he, "and I will lie down and rest a little and after a while I will come along into camp."  So they left him and pushed on to water, and when they were a little refreshed went back to him with water, and to help him to come in, but when they came to him they found him dead.  He did not seem to have moved after he had lain down.  He did not seem so bad off as Shannon was when he lay down, and probably a few swallows of water at that time would have saved his life.  It seemed sad indeed, after so much suffering and striving to get along, that he should die within a mile of water that would have saved his life.  If he had posessed a little more strength so that the spark of life could have remained a little longer, the cooling moisture trom the canteen would have revived it, and a little rest would have placed him on his feet again.  They had no tools to dig a grave, not even a knife for they had left every weight in camp, so they covered him closely in his blankets and sadly returned to their friends.  They had all along hoped that the Frenchman who had wandered away would come in, but he never came.  There were several water holes scattered around at this point which seemed to be a sort of sunken place in the hills, and quite large brush could be obtained for fire, and grass for the oxen.  Those who had been good hunters and had thrown away their rifles as useless burdens, now began to look at hills before them and think that game might be found in them, as well as water.  There were only one or two guns in the whole party, They thought that this must surely be the edge of the great desert they had crossed, and only the snow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>One day from here would bring them to the edge of the snow, and they debated as to the best course to pursue.  Some of them were fearful they could not cross the snow with the oxen, for it seemed to be quite deep.  The best place to cross seemed directly west of them.  South was a higher peak, and to the north it was surely impassible.  There seemed to be a faint sign of a trail from this point towards the lowest point in the snow mountains.  There were some bones of cattle around the springs which they thought was an indication that in years gone by there had been some traveling on this trail.  There surely would be water in the snow which could be got by melting it, and on the whole it seemed best to make the attempt to cross at the lowest place.  There were no signs of travel except the trail which had not been used in years, nor signs of civilization except the bones.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Starting from the water holes which showed no signs of having been used for several years, their next camp was, as they had calculated, on the edge of the snow where they found plenty of dry juniper trees for fire, and of course plenty of water.  Here they killed an ox and fed the hungry so that they were pretty well refreshed.  This was an elevated place and they could look back over the trail across the desert for, what seemed to them, a hundred miles, and the great dangers of their journey were discussed.  Said one of them to Tom Shannon:--"Tom, you killed the first game we have come across in two months.  Even the buzzards and coyotes knew better than to go out into the country where the cursed Mormon saint sent us numbskulls."  Another said that while they had been seeking a heaven on earth they had passed through purgatory, or perhaps a worse place still nearer the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:one from which sulphurous fumes arise, and now they hoped that there might be a somewhat more heavenly place beyond the snow.  One who had been silent seemed awakened by inspiration and spoke in impromptu lines somewhat as follows, as he pointed out to the dim distance:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Yonder in mountains' gray beauty,<LB>Wealth and fame decay.<LB>Yonder, the sands of the desert,<LB>Yonder, the salt of the sea,<LB>Yonder, a fiery furnace,<LB>Yonder, the bones of our friends,<LB>Yonder the old and the young<LB>Lie scattered along the way."<LB></HI>
107.sgm:<P>Some even confessed the desperate thoughts that had come to their minds when they were choking and starving.  We have mentioned four of the train who had perished beside the trail and it will be remembered that one party of eleven started out on foot before the wagons were abandoned by the rest of the party.  Nothing was heard of these for seven years, but long afterward nine skeletons were found at the remains of a camp, and the other two were afterward seen in the gold fields.  When spoken to about this party, they burst into tears and could not talk of it.  So it is known that at least thirteen men perished in the country which has well been named Death Valley.</P>
107.sgm:<P>People who have always been well fed, and have never suffered from thirst till every drop of moisture seemed gone from the body, so they dare not open their mouth lest they dry up and cease to breathe, can never understand, nor is there language to convey the horrors of such a situation.  The story of these parties may seem like fairy fables, but to those who experienced it all, the strongest statements come far short of the reality.  No one could believe how some men, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Early next morning before the sun rose they started to cross the snow, leaving their comrade Robinson behind, rolled up in his blankets, taking his everlasting sleep so far as the troubles of this world are concerned.  What the day would bring forth very few could have any idea.  Go on they must, and this direction seemed most promising.  If the snow should prove hard enough to hold up the oxen they could probably cross before night, but if compelled to camp in the snow it was a doubtful case for them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The snow held them as they advanced on it, but grew a little softer as the sun got higher.  The tracks of both men and animals were stained with blood from their worn-out feet.  When they turned the summit they found more timber and the ravine they followed was so shaded that the force of the sun was broken, and they really did not suffer very much from slumping through the snow, and so got safely over.  Not far below the snow they found a running brook of clear, sweet water, with willows along the banks and trees on the hills, the first really good water for a month or two.  This is the same camp where Rogers and his companion ate their meal of quail, hawk and crow a few days before, and these travelers knew by the remains of the little camp fire that they were following on the trail of the two men who had gone before.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This place was so great an improvement on the camps of the past that all hands began to talk and act more rational as hope dawned more brightly on them.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Capt. Doty, Tom Shannon and Bill Rude sat down to rest on a bold point above the creek.  While there three wild horses came along within easy range, and thinking they would form better meat than the oxen each man picked his animal and all fired simultaneously, bringing them all to the ground.  This seemed a piece of glorious luck, and all rushed in like wolves after a wounded animal.  It was not very long before each had a chunk of meat in his hand, and many a one did not stop from eating because it was not cooked.  Such declared they never ate anything so delicious in all their lives before, and wondered why horses were not used as food instead of hogs and cattle.  As they satisfied their ravenous apetites they ate more like beasts than like men, so nearly were they starved, and so nearly had their starving condition made them fall from their lofty estate.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As they passed on down this can&tilde;on they found it very brushy and on the dry leaves under the widespreading trees they saw signs of bear and perhaps other animals.  There were some swampy places where it was grassy, and into these the cattle rushed with great eagerness for the food they had so long suffered for.  Some of Mr. Brier's cattle went in, and in tramping around for food sank deep into the mud and could not be coaxed out again.  Mrs. Brier threw clubs at them but they did not seem inclined to pay much attention to her attacks so she was forced to go in after them herself, and in so doing also sank into the mud and could not get out without assistance.  All this time her reverend husband sat outside on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>About this time L. D. Stevens came along and seeing the condition of the unfortunate woman, at once went to her assistance and helped her to dry land.  Brier himself never made a move nor said a word.  Stevens looked terribly cross at him and remarked to his companions that if the preacher himself had been the one stuck in the mud he would have been quite inclined to leave him there for all of helping him.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The can&tilde;on grew narrow as they descended, and the brush thicker, so that to follow the bed of the stream was the only way to get along.  The cattle seemed to scent a bear and stampeded in terror through the brush in various directions, all except one which was being led by a rope.  They tried to follow the animals in a desperate effort to recover them and a few blankets they had upon their backs, but could only make slow progress.  Tom Shannon and two others found a fresh bear track and determined to follow it awhile in the hope of having revenge on the cause of their mishap with the oxen.  They took their blankets and kept the trail till night when they camped, but were at so great an elevation that a snowstorm came with six inches of snow so they could no longer follow the track.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They were very hungry and on the way back came across some wild cherries which had dried perfectly dry as they hung on the bushes.  These they picked and ate, cracking the seeds with their teeth, and declaring them to be the best of fruit.  Good appetites made almost anything taste good then.  They got back to the creck next day pretty nearly starved, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Wood and water were plenty, but grass was scarce and their ox had to live on brush and leaves, but this was infinitely better than the stunted and bitter shrubs of the desert.  They came out of the brush at last into the open bottom land where the brook sank out of sight in the sand, and sage brush appeared all about.  From this on, over the elevated point which projected out nearly across the valley, their experience and emotions in coming in sight of vast herds of cattle feeding on rolling grassy hills, or reclining under great oak trees scattered over the more level lands, were much the same as came to the Author and his party when the same scene was suddenly opened to them.  Signs of civilization and of plenty so suddenly appearing after so many weeks of suffering and desolation was almost enough to turn their heads, and more than one of the stout-hearted pioneers shed tears of joy.  Only a few days before and they could scarcely have believed it possible to find a spot so lovely.</P>
107.sgm:<P>But to hungry, more than half starved men, points of artistic beauty and sober reflections over the terrors of the past found little place, and their first thought was to satisfy the cravings of hunger which were assuredly none the less when they beheld the numerous fat cattle all around them.  There was no one to ask or to buy from and to kill and eat without permission might be wrong and might get them into difficulty, but one might as well ask a starving wolf to get permission to slay and eat when a fat lamb came across his path as to expect these men to take very much time to hunt up owners.  When life or death are the questions that present themselves men are not so apt to discuss the right or wrong of any matter.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Tom Shannon and a couple of others did not wait <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>They had hardly finished their bloody feast when they saw a small squad of men on horseback advancing toward them, and as they came near it was quite plain that they were all armed in some way.  All had lassoes at their saddles, some had old-fashioned blunderbusses, and nearly every one had a <HI REND="italics">macheta</HI>
107.sgm:<P>Some of the Jayhawkers had been in the Mexican War and understood a few words of Spanish, and by a liberal use of signs were able to communicate with the armed party and tell them who they were, where they were going, and the unfortunate condition in which they found themselves.  The men did not seem angry at losing so few of their cattle, and doubtless considered themselves fortunate in not suffering to the extent of some hundreds as they did sometimes by Indian raids, and invited the whole party down to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The whole party remained here to rest themselves and their oxen for several days, and were royally entertained by the people at the ranch.  They talked over the plans for the future, and considered the best course to pursue.  They thought it would be wise to keep their oxen for these would now improve in flesh, and as they had no money with which to buy food they might still rely on them in further travels.  The best oxen had survived, for the failing ones were selected to be killed when they were forced to have food.  The weaker of their comrades had perished in the desert, and the remainder of the train consisted of the strongest men and the strongest oxen, and there seemed to be no question but that they could all live in this country where grass and water were both abundant, and every sign of more or less wild game.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Those of the company who had no cattle made their way directly to Los Angeles, and from thence to the coast from which most of them reached San Francisco by sailing vessel.  Those who had no money were given a passage on credit, and it is believed that all such debts were afterwards honestly paid.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Capt. Doty made a proposition to buy out the oxen of some who had only one or two, giving his note for them payable in San Francisco or anywhere up north they might chance to meet, and many of them accepted and went to the coast.  In this way Doty secured oxen enough to supply one for each of those who decided to go with him.  They decided to use them for pack animals to carry their blankets, and to proceed slowly toward the mines, killing game, if possible, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>There must have been from twenty-five to forty people gathered at the ranch.  Among them was the Rev. J. W. Brier who seemed to want to impress it on the new California friends that he was the man of all others to be honored.  The rachman was a good Catholic, and Brier tried to make him understand that he, also, was very devout.  He said, and repeated to him very often--"Me preacher," but he did not succeed very well in impressing the good Californian with the dignity of his profession, for he could talk no Spanish and was not highly gifted in sign language.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When they went away they had no way to reward their good friends who had been friends indeed to them.  They could only look their thanks and express themselves in a very few words of Spanish.  " <HI REND="italics">Adios Amigos</HI>
107.sgm:<P>They followed down the course of the river that flowed through the valley, the Santa Clara River, and knew that it would take them to the sea at last.  Before they reached the mission of San Buena Ventura, near the sea, they ran out of meat again, for they had failed to find game as they had expected, and Capt. Asa Haynes took the chances of killing a Spanish cow that looked nice and fat.  They camped around the carcass and ate, and smoked the meat that was left.  While thus engaged two horsemen approached, and after taking a good look at the proceedings, galloped off again.  When the party arrived at the Mission they were arrested and taken before the alcalde to give an account of their misdeeds.  They realized that they were now in a bad fix, and either horn of the dilemma was bad enough.  They could not talk Spanish; they had no money; they had killed somebody's cow; they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>At Santa Barbara they found a chance to trade off some of their oxen for mares, which were not considered worth much, and managed the barter so well that they came out with a horse apiece and a few dollars besides, with which to buy grub along the road.  They depended mostly on their guns for supplying them with food.  They supposed they were about three hundred miles from San Francisco, and expected to meet with but few people except at the Missions, of which they had learned there were a few along the road.  At these there was not much to be had except dried beef.  However, they managed to use the guns with fair success, and at last arrived safely at Stockton where they sold some of their horses for more than double what they cost, and with a small number of horses they packed on to the gold mines.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Those of the party who went to Los Angeles managed in one way or another to get through on schooners, and many of them, after a year or two of hard work, made some money and returned to their homes in Illinois.  It is hardly necessary to add that they did not return via Death Valley.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some years afterward the members of this party who had returned to their Eastern homes formed themselves into an organization which they called the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>One part of the program was the calling of the roll, and such reports and letters as had come to hand.  The following is a list of the members of the party so far as can be ascertained, as gathered from recollections and from the reports of the meetings of the reunions.</P>
107.sgm:<P>LIST OF JAYHAWKERS.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The following named were living, so far as known, in 1893:--John B. Colton and Alonzo C. Clay, of Galesburg, III., Luther A. Richards, of Woodhull, Ill., Chas. B. Mecum, of Ripley, Iowa, John W. Plummer, of Tulon, Ill., Edward Bartholomew, Urban P. Davidson, John Crosscup and L. Dow Stephens, of San Jose, California, Harrison Frans and Thomas Shannon, of Los Gatos, Cal., J. W. Brier and wife, Lodi, Cal., three children of Mr. Brier.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The following are supposed to be dead:--Asa Haines, Knoxville, Ill., Sidney P. Edgerton, formerly of Blair, Nebraska, Thomas McGrew, John Cole, Wm. B. Rude, Wm. Robinson and Alex. Palmer, of Knoxville, Ill., Marshall B. Edgerton, late of Galesburg, Ill. Wm. Ischam, of Rochester, N. Y., Mr. --Fish, of Oskaloosa, Iowa, John L.  West, Aaron Larkin, Capt. Edwin Doty and Brien Byram, of Knoxville, Ill., Mr.--Cater, of Wisconsin, Geo. Allen, Leander Woolsey and Chas. Clark, of Henderson, Ill., <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>There were some others connected more or less with the party at some part of the trip, but not coming in with the Jayhawker organization.  So far as learned, their names are as follows:--John Galler, Jim Woods and Jim Martin of Miss., Ed Croker of N. Y., David Funk, Mr. Town, Henry Wade, wife and three children, Nat Ward, John D. Martin, of Texas, Old Francis, a Frenchman, Fred Carr and Negro "Joe," from Miss.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There were a great many reports about finding rich mines about this time, and these stories have been magnified and told in all sorts of ways since then, and parties have returned to try to find the great riches.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Among the Jayhawkers were two Germans who could speak but little English and probably for this reason, kept apart from the remainder of the party.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One day, after the wagons were abandoned these German fellows were marching along alone with their packs on their backs in the warm sun, suffering very much for want of water and food, when one of them sat down on a hill-side in pretty nearly absolute despair, while the other man went down into a ravine hoping to find a puddle of water in the rocky bottom somewhere, though it was almost a forlorn hope.  All at once he called out to his partner on the hill--"John, come down here and get some of this gold.  There is a lot of it."  To this poor John Galler only replied:--"No, I won't come.  I don't want any gold, but I would like very much to have some water and some bread."  And so they left the valuable find and slowly walked on, pulling through at last with the rest of them, and reaching Los Angeles.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The man who found the gold went to the Mission of San Luis Rey and started a small clothing store, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The Author saw him in 1862 and heard what he had to say about it, and is convinced that it was not gold at all which they saw.  I told him that I more than suspected that what he saw was mica instead of gold and that both he and his partner had been deceived, for more than one man not used to gold had been deceived before now.  "No sir!" said he, "I saw lots of gold in Germany, and when I saw that I knew what it was."  The Author went back over that trail in 1862 and sought out the German on purpose to get information about the gold.  He could not give the name of a single man who was in the party at that time, but insisted that it was gold he saw and that he knew the trail.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The Author was able to identify with reasonable certainty the trails followed by the different parties, but found no signs of gold formation except some barren quartz, and this after an experience of several years in both placer and quartz mines.  So honest John Galler's famous placer mine still remains in the great list of lost mines, like the Gunsight Lead and other noted mines for which men have since prospected in vain.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>Alexander Combs Erkson was one of the pioneers of 1849, having left the state of Iowa in the month of May, when he assisted in organizing a company known as the "Badger Company" at Kanesville, the object being mutual assistance and protection.  This company joined the Bennett party mentioned so prominently in this history, at the Missouri, and traveled with them or near them to the rendezvous near Salt Lake where the new company was organized for the southern trip taken by the Death Valley party, the Jayhawkers and others.  As the experience of Mr. Erkson was in some respects different to that of the parties mentioned, he having taken a different route for a part of the way, it was thought best to embody it in this history.  The following was dictated to the editor of this book, and as Mr. Erkson died before the written account could be revised by him, it is the best that can possibly be obtained.</P>
107.sgm:<P>MR. ERKSON'S STATEMENT.</P>
107.sgm:<P>"We arrived at the Mormon camp near Salt Lake, Salt Lake City, in the month of August.  Several of us went to work getting out lumber for Brigham Yonng while we were waiting and resting.  The mormons all advised us not to undertake to go on by the northern route, and as the travelers gathered at this point they canvassed the situation.  We used our teams when we were at work for Brigham and assisted in building a dam across a can&tilde;on where he intended to build a woolen mill.  I earned about a hundred dollars by my work, which was paid to me in ten-dollar pieces of a gold coin made by the Mormons.  They were not like the U. S. coins.  I remember one side <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We entered into an agreement with Capt. Hunt, a Mormon, to pilot us through, and turned all our gold into that company, thus bringing none of the Mormon gold with us.  We went on with the company as has been related in the foregoing pages, till we arrived at Mt. Misery, so named by us, when we took the back track, while Mr. Manley and the others went on as they have related.  We had meetings by the light of a greenwood fire, and the matter was talked up in little knots of people, and then some one would get up and speak.  One J. W. Brier, a preacher, was the principal blower.  `You are going wrong!' said he, We should go west, and in six weeks we will be loaded with gold!'</P>
107.sgm:<P>Hunt got a little confused at a place called Beaver Meadows, or Mountain Meadows, and thought perhaps he could find a new road.  Several men were sent out to look, and some of us in camp played ball for amusement while we were waiting.  Hunt's men came back and said there were no prospects of a new road, and he said he knew the southern route and believed it would be safe to go that way.</P>
107.sgm:<P>He told us that we must decide the next day.  When we came to the road where we were to separate he filed off on his road and the others filed off on their road and then came back with their whips in their hands.  I had filed in after Hunt, and they tried to convince me that I was very wrong.  A Mr. Norton of Adrian, Mich., promised Mrs. Erkson a horse to ride if she would go, and so I left Hunt and turned in on the other road, the hindmost wagon.  This is going back a little with the history and bringing it up to Mt. Misery.  On my way back from Mt. Misery I climbed up on a big rock and inscribed the date--Nov. 10, 1849.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>In our journey we came to what is called `The rim of the Basin,' and traveled along on that a distance till we came to the Santa Clara River and saw where the Indians had raised corn and melons.  We followed on down that stream and found our teams gradually failing.  Noting this we decided to overhaul our loads and reject a lot of things not strictly necessary to preserve life.  I know I threw out a good many valuable and pretty things by the roadside.  I remember six volumes of Rollin's Ancient History, nicely bound, with my name on the back, that were piled up and left.  We followed along near the Santa Clara River till it emptied into the Virgin River.  It was somewhere along here that we first saw some Yucca trees.  The boys often set fire to them to see them burn.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The Virgin River was a small stream running on about the course we wanted to travel, and we followed this course for thirty or forty miles.  We found plenty of wood and water and mesquite.  After awhile the river turned off to the left, while we wanted to keep to the right, so we parted company there.  We heard of a river beyond which they called the `Big Muddy' and we went up a little arroyo, then over a divide to some table land that led us down to the Big Muddy.  We made our wagons as light as possible, taking off all the boards and stakes we could possibly get along without.  Wm. Philipps and others were placed on short allowance.  They had an idea that I had more provisions in my wagon than I ought to have, but I told them that it was clothing that we used to sleep on.  I divided among them once or twice.  When we reached the Muddy we stopped two or three days for there was plenty of feed.  It was a narrow stream that seemed as if it must come from springs.  It was narrow between banks, but ran pretty deep, and a streak of fog marked its course in the morning.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It was a gloomy trip the whole time on the Muddy.  I lost three or four head of cattle, all within a day and a night.  Mrs. Erkson walked to lighten the load, and would pick all the bunches of grass she saw and put them on the wagon to feed the oxen when we stopped.  I let them pass me and stopped and fed the cattle, and slept ourselves.  It was said that we ran great risks from Indians, but we did not see any.  I had at this time only two yoke of oxen left.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We overtook the party next morning at nine o'clock, having met some of them who were coming back after us.  All were rejoiced that we had come on safely.  Here I met Elisha Bennett and told him my story.  He said he could sell me a yoke of oxen.  He had a yoke in J. A. Phillipps' team and was going to take them out.  He said nothing in particular as to price.  I said that I wanted to see Mr. Philipps and talk with him about the matter, for he had said Bennett should not have the cattle.  I went over to see him and spoke to him about Bennett's cattle and he told me they had quarreled and I could have them, and so we made a bargain.  I gave twenty dollars for the cattle, the last money I had, and as much provisions as he could carry on his back.  They were making up a party to reach the settlements at the Williams ranch, and I made arrangements for them to send back provisions for us.  About thirty started that way--young men and men with no families with them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I got along very well with my new team after that.  It was about forty miles from water to water, and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We then went more nearly south to find the Mojave River, for we hoped to find water there.  It was very scarce with us then,  We had one pretty cold day, but generally fine weather, and to get along we traveled at night and a party struck the Mojave.  Here there was some grass, and the mustard was beginning to start up and some elder bushes to put forth leaves.  I picked some of the mustard and chewed it to try to get back my natural taste.  Here the party divided, a part going to the left to San Bernardino and the remainder to the right to Cucamunga.  I was with the latter party and we got there before night.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Rhynierson said to one of the party--`Charlie, you had better hurry on ahead and try to get some meat before the crowd comes up.'  Charlie went on ahead and we drove along at the regular gait which was not very fast about these times.  We saw nothing of Charlie and so I went to the house to look for him and found him dead drunk on wine.  He had not said a word to them about provisions.  That wine wrecked us all.  All had a little touch of scurvy, and it seemed to be just what we craved.  I bought a big tumbler of it for two bits and carried it to my wife.  She tasted it at first rather gingerly, then took a little larger sup of it, and then put it to her lips and never stopped drinking till the last drop was gone.  I looked a little bit surprised and she looked at me and innocently asked--`Why! Haven't you had any?'  I was afraid she would be the next one to be dead drunk, but it never affected her in that way at all.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>372</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>We went on from here to San Gabriel where we staid six weeks to rest and recuperate the cattle.  In the good grass we found here they all became about as fat as ever in a little while.  Here the party all broke up and no sort of an organization was kept up beyond here.  Some went to Los Angeles, some went on north, trading off their cattle for horses, and some went directly to the coast.  We went to the Mission of San Fernando where we got some oranges which were very good for us.  There is a long, tedious hill there to get over.  We made up ten wagons.  By the time we reached the San Francisquito Ranch I had lost my cattle.  I went down to this ranch and there met Mr, and Mrs. Arcane getting ready to go to San Pedro.  We came north by way of Tejon pass and the Kern River, not far from quite a large lake, and reached the mines at last.  I remember we killed a very fat bear and tried out the grease, and with this grease and some flour and dried apples Mrs. Erkson made some pretty good pies which the miners were glad to get at a dollar and even two dollars apiece."</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mr. Erkson followed mining for about a year and then went into other business until he came to Santa Clara Valley and began farming near Alviso.  He has been a highly respected citizen and progressive man.  He died in San Jose in the spring of 1893.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>THE EXPERIENCE OF EDWARD COKER.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Edward Coker was one of a party of twenty-one men who left their wagons, being impatient of the slow progress made by the ox train, and organized a pack train in which they were themselves the burden carriers.  They discarded everything not absolutely necessary to sustain life, packed all their provisions into knapsacks, bravely shouldered them and started off on foot from the desert to reach California by the shortest way.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Among those whom Mr. Coker can recollect are Capt. Nat. Ward, Jim Woods, Jim Martin of Missouri, John D. Martin of Texas, "Old Francis," a French Canadian, Fred Carr, Negro "Joe" and some others from Coffeeville, Miss., with others from other states.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mr. Coker related his experience to the Author somewhat as follows:--</P>
107.sgm:<P>One other of the party was a colored man who joined us at the camp when we left the families, he being the only remaining member of a small party who had followed our wagon tracks after we had tried to proceed south.  This party was made up of a Mr. Culverwell who had formerly been a writer in a Government office at Washington, D.C., a man named Fish claiming to be a relative of Hamilton Fish of New York, and another man whose name I never knew.  He, poor fellow, arrived at our camp in a starving condition and died before our departure.  The other two unfortunates ones died on the desert, and the colored man reported that he simply covered their remains with their blankets.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I well remember that last night in camp before we started with our knapsacks and left the families, for it was plain the women and children must go very slow, and we felt we could go over rougher and shorter roads on foot and get through sooner by going straight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>It was at this camp that Mr. Ischam died.  The night before our departure he came wandering into camp and presented such an awful appearance, simply a living skeleton of a once grand and powerful man.  He must have suffered untold agony as he struggled on to overtake the party, starving and alone, with the knowledge that two of his companions had perished miserably of starvation in that unknown wilderness of rocks and alkali.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our journey on foot through the mountains was full of adventure and suffering.  On our arrival at the shores of Owen's Lake not a man of the party had a mouthful of food left in his pack, and to add to our difficultes we had several encounters with the hostile Indians.  There was a fearful snow storm falling at Owen's Lake on the evening that we arrived there, and we could make no fire.  The Indians gathered around us and we did not know exactly what to make of them, nor could we determine whether their intentions were good or bad.  We examined the lake and determined to try to ford it, and thus set out by the light of the moon that occasionally peeped out from behind the clouds, while the red devils stood howling on the shore.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The following morning we found what was then known as the Fremont Trail, and by the advice of some friendly Indians who came into our camp, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>375</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>From this Indian village we walked on until we arrived at the present site of Millerton on the south bank of the San Joaquin River.  Our sufferings were terrible from hunger, cold, and wet, for the rains were almost continual at this elevation, and we had been forced several times to swim.  The sudden change from the dried-up desert to a rainy region was pretty severe on us.  On our arrival at the San Joaquin River we found a camp of wealthy Mexicans who gave us a small amount of food, and seemed to want us to pass on that they might be rid of us.  I can well believe that a company of twenty-one starving men was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It is very strange to think that since that time I have never met a single man of that party of twenty-one.  I had kept quite full notes of the whole trip from the state of New York to the mines, and includ-my early mining experience up to the year 1851.  Unfortunately this manuscript was burned at the Russ House fire in Fresno, where I also lost many personal effects."</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the year 1892 Mr. Coker was living in Fresno, or near that city, in fairly comfortable health, and it is to be hoped that the evening of his days, to which all the old pioneers are rapidly approaching, may be to him all that his brightest hopes pictured.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>Having followed the various little parties into which the great train had resolved itself when it began to feel the pressure of suffering and trouble which came with contact with the desert, followed them in their various ways till they came through to the Pacific Slope, the travels and experiences of the Author are again resumed.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It will be remembered that he had rested at Los Angeles, working for Mr. Brier who had temporarily turned boarding house keeper, and finally made arrangements with some drovers to assist in taking a small stock of horses north to the mines.  His story is thus continued:--</P>
107.sgm:<P>We followed the wagon road which the companies that had gone on before had made, and got along very well.  At night I acted independently--staked out my mule and ate my meal of dried meat and crackers--then joined the others around a large fire, and all seemed to enjoy the company.  After a few days the two men who owned the horses proposed to me to let my mule carry the provisions, and they wanted me to ride one of their horses that was not carrying a pack, as they said it would keep it more gentle to ride it.</P>
107.sgm:<P>To please the old gentleman from Sacramento I agreed to the proposition, for I thought perhaps by being accomodating I could get along more pleasantly.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Thus we traveled on, over rolling hills covered with grass and wild flowers, and I was much pleased with all that I could see.  For the first two days we did not pass a house, which shows how thinly settled the country was.  Cattle were often seen, and sometimeshorses, but people were very scarce.  In time we went <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>378</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>As we journeyed along we came to the sea shore, the grandest sight in the world to me, for I had never before seen the ocean.  What a wide piece of water it was!  Far out I could see small waves coming toward the shore, and the nearer they came the faster they seemed to rush and at last turned into great rollers and breakers which dashed upon the rocks or washed far up the sandy shore with a force that made the ground tremble.  There was no wind and I could not see what it could be that so strangely agitated the water. Here the waves kept coming, one after another, with as much regularityas the slow strokes of a clock.  This was the first puzzle the great sea propounded to me, and there under the clear blue sky and soft air I studied over the ceaseless, restless motion and the great power that was always beating on the shore.  I tasted the water and found it exceedingly salt, and I did not see how anything could live in it and not become in the condition of pickled pork or fish.  Where was the salt to make this mighty brine pond, and why did it keep so when the great rivers kept pouring in their torrents of fresh waters?  I did not understand, and these are some of the thoughts that came to the boy who had been raised upon the prairie, and to whom the great ocean was indeed an unknown sea.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We followed along the road and in time came to another village and Mission called Santa Barbara.  The village was near the shore, and the church farther <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>379</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Leaving here the road led back from the sea shore and over quite a level table land, covered with a big growth of grass and some timber, and then down to the sandy shore again where the mountain comes so close that we were <HI REND="italics">c</HI>
107.sgm: rowded down the very water's edge. Here the never-tiring waves were still following each other to the shore and dashing themselves to pieces with such a noise that I felt awed to silence.  What a strange difference in two parts of the earth so little distance from each other!  Here was a waste of waters, there was a waste of sands that may some time have been the bottom of just such a dashing, rolling sea as this.  And here, between the two, was a fertile region covered with trees, grass and flowers, and watered with brooks of fresh, sweet water.  Paradise and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It was a circumstance of great interest to me to see the sun slowly go down into the great ocean.  Slowly and steadily it went, getting redder and redder as it went down, then it just touched the distant water and the waves dashed over more and more of its face till all was covered.  Were it not for the strong, bright rays that still shot up across the sky one might think it was drowned forever, but in the morning it came up over the mountain top, having apparently made half the circuit of the globe.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Soon after this the road left the shore and turned into the mountains.  Another Mission was on this road, Santa Ynez, situated in a beautiful place but apparently in decay, for the men had gone to the mines, leaving the Indians, women, and dogs as in other places.  San Luis Obispo was another Mission similarly inhabited, but the surroundings did not seem so pleasant as those we had seen before, although it bore signs that considerable had been done.  From here our road bore still more north and we had a long mountain to work over, very rocky, and in some places barren.</P>
107.sgm:<P>San Miguel was a Mission situated on the bank of a dry stream that evidently had seen plenty of water earlier in the season. The surrounding country was covered with scattering timber.  Soledad was another place where there were some improvements, located on a small river, but nearly deserted like the other places.  Prospects at the gold mines were so favorable that every man felt an irresistable desire to enrich himself, and so they left their families at the Missions and in the towns and rushed off to the mines.  Nearly all of them expected to return by winter.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>I think I must stop right here and tell about the California carriages of which I had seen several at Los Angeles and at the Missions along our road.  The first time I saw one it was a great curiousity, I assure you.  The wheels were cut off the end of a sycamore log a little over two feet in diameter and each section about a foot long.  The axle was a piece of wood eight inches square with a tongue fastened to it long enough to be used with a yoke of oxen, and the ends of the axle were roughly rounded, leaving something of a shoulder.  The wheels were retained in place by a big lynch-pin.  On the axle and tongue was a strong frame of square hewed timbers answering for bed pieces, and the bottom was of raw-hide tightly stretched, which covered the whole frame.  Tall stakes at each corner of the frame held up an awning in hot weather.  The yoke was fastened to the horns of the oxen by strong, narrow strips of raw-hide, and the tongue was fastened to the yoke in the same way. The driver was generally an Indian, armed with a small pole six or eight feet long, who marched on before, the oxen following after.  I saw many a wagon like this, the platform well filled up with women and children, and a pack of dogs following along behind, slowly rolling over the country, and this is the way they traveled when they went visiting friends who lived a few miles in the country.  Sometimes the wheels gave perfectly agonizing shrieks as they revolved, and when they made so much noise that their strong Spanish nerves could stand it no longer, if there was any green grass to be found the drivers would crowd in a quantity around the axle, and there was generally room for a good lot of it, to answer for a lubricator.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We passed on from Soledad and shortly rose into the table land we had seen for some time before us.  From <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>382</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>This was the first place since we left Los Angeles where we could buy any kind of breadstuff, and we were here enabled to get a change of diet, including greens.  This seemed to be one end or side of another valley, and as we went along it seemed to widen away to the east; but our course was to the north, and we followed the road.  The architecture of all the buildings except the churches was all the same, being built of the sun dried adobes or bricks made by mixing up a clay mud with tough grass and letting it get dry and hard.  We saw the same kind of roof material as before, a sort of mineral tar which I supposed they must find somewhere about.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I could imagine why the houses were built in this way, for when the Jesuit missionaries first came in they found the country occupied by Indians who used their arrows to good effect, as they were jealous of all outside occupation.  The early settlers evidently made the walls of their dwellings thick and strong enough to resist all kinds of weapons used by Indians.  They could not set fire to them for they were fire proof and arrow proof, and the hostile Indian could dance on the roof without being able to get in or do any injury.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>383</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>The Indians of what is now Nevada and Arizona used to come over into these rich valleys and clandestinely capture a band of a hundred or more head of cattle or horses and make their escape.  They were often followed by the herders, but if they did not overtake the thieves before they got into the deep can&tilde;ons of the mountains, they would usually turn back and let them go rather than be led into ambush in some strange narrow place where escape would be impossible and they might be filled with arrows.  No doubt the trail we had followed across the plains, where there were so many horses' bones, was one of these trails along which the thieving Indians took their booty which died upon the trip.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our road from here was near the foot-hills on the west side of a level, grassy, thinly timbered valley, and as we advanced we noticed that the timber grew more plentiful and the trees larger, without much underbrush.  We also noticed that the vegetation was ranker and no doubt the soil was very rich.  We then came to a point where the mountain reaches out almost across the valley to meet the mountain on the east side.  Here we found a gravelly creek with but little water, but as soon as we passed this point we saw the valley suddenly widening out, and beautiful groves of live oak trees scattered all around.  The vegetation here was very rank, the mustard ten feet high in places, making it difficult to see out of the road.  This was perhaps the strongest contrast to the arid desert that we had seen.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As we went on down the valley the hills seemed to stand farther and farther back as if to make more room for those who would soon settle in this fertile place, and we soon came in sight of the village or pueblo of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The drovers who had been anxious to have us go with them and help them now began to talk about a settlement with us, as if they had done us great favors, and called on the other fellows to help pay for their board upon the way.  When they came to me they said my share would be an ounce.  This struck me hard, but they said I had ridden their horse all the way and the charge was very low.  I told them I had furnished the most of the provisions I had eaten, and my mule had packed a good load all the way, which I considered worth as much as the use of the horse.  But they refused to allow me anything for the use of the mule and became very urgent in their demand for money.</P>
107.sgm:<P>These men were evidently of the tribe of Skinflint, who had no soulds, or they would not have attempted to rob an almost penniless emigrant in this way of the last few dollars he had, and all the hope he had of reaching the mines.  I did not desire to give up to such narrow principles as this and hesitated, but they were bound to have the money or make a quarrel, and talked pretty loud of the way they collected debts in Sacramento, so that to avoid trouble and get out of the clutches of such mean scoundrels as these I counted out sixteen dollars, almost every cent I had, and reluctantly gave them to my enemy.  I immediately mounted my mule, and without stopping to say goodbye rode off.  I may have quoted a part of the speech <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>385</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>I hitched my mule in the edge of the town and went in to look at the place.  The houses were situated very much as in other places we had come through--scattered around over much ground and built low, but had a different style of roof, a peaked or sloping one, and covered with half round tile two feet or more long and an inch thick.  One course of these would be laid with the hollow side up, and then a course with the hollow side down, covering the joints of the lower course.  This allowed the air to circulate freely and was proof against rain.  I saw no flat roofs such as I had seen down along the coast.  I saw one gambling house and about all the men in town were gathered there, and some women, too.  This was the busiest place in town and situated near the plaza.  This was the largest town I had yet been in.  There seemed to be plenty of women and lots of dogs, but the men were as scarce as they had been in any of the towns--gone to the gold mines to make a stake.  I took in the sights pretty well, and there were a great many new things for me to see, and when pretty well satisfied concluded I would go back to my mule and camp in some place just out of town for the night.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Before I reached my animal whom should I meet but my old traveling companion John Rogers whom I thought to be a hundred miles away by this time.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We went up to the place where our people were camped, perhaps a mile above town on the bank of a river, nearly dry, but where plenty of wood, water and grass were at hand; such a place as we had looked for in vain for many a weary day upon the desert.  This was as far above Death Valley as a king above a pauper, and we hoped never to see such a country again.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In camp we talked about moving on to the mines.  Rogers said he was going to start next day, and in answer to exclamations of surprise that he should start off alone, he said that some fellows camped a little way down the river were going to start and he had made arrangements to go with them, as the Bennett party would not go yet for a week.  In the morning he shook hands and bade us good-bye and good luck, and started off down the river bank, lost to us, as it proved, for many years.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The next day as we were all sitting on the ground I felt a sort of moving of the earth under me and heard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>387</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>He then went on to say that he had heard Mr. Bennett's story of their sufferings and narrow escape from death, and it was the most wonderful story he had ever heard.  He said the idea of Mrs. Bennett walking over such a country for twenty-two days was almost beyond belief, for he would not have thought her able to walk one-third the distance.  He never knew before how much women could do when they were called to do it, and they proved in emergencies to be as tough as any body.  He said if he ever got back home he should move to give them all the rights and privileges of men for sure.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One day I mounted my mule for a ride to the eastern foothills, and sat down on a little incline and overlooked the valley, a beautiful landscape, while my mule cropped the rich grasses in a circle described by the rope which confined him.  I was always a great admirer of nature, and as I sat there alone I could see miles on miles of mammoth mustard waving in the strong breeze which came down over the San Francisco Bay just visible to the northward, and on the mountain summits to the west could see tall timber reaching up into the deep blue of the sky.  It was a real contented comfort to be thus in the midst of luxuriance and beauty, and I enjoyed it, coming as it did at the end of the long and dreary road I had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>388</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>I waked up from my dreamy thoughts, mounted my mule and rode to camp.  As I rode along the nimble ground squirrel, with his keen black eye, would climb to the top of the high mustard stalks to get a better view and, suspicious of an enemy within his almost undisputed territory, disappear in a wink to his safe underground fortress.  Fat cattle and horses would appear before me a moment, and then, with a wild look and high heads, dash through the tall mustard out of sight.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Next day my trip was toward the western hills, and before I came to them was confronted with an extensive stretch of chaparral brush, absolutely impenetrable, which I must go around or stop my progress in this direction.  These thickets were a regular paradise for grizzly bears, for within the protection of this matted and thorny growth he is as safe as is the soldier in the rocky fort of Gibralter.  I soon found a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>389</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Taking the most direct course to camp I came, when within two or three miles of San Jose, to a large extent of willows so thick, and so thickly woven together with wild blackberry vines, wild roses and other thorny plants, that it appeared at first as if I never could get through.  But I found a winding trail made by the cattle through the bushes and mustard, and this I followed, being nearly scared occasionally by some wild steers as they rushed off through the thickets.  I got through safely, though it would have been difficult to escape a wild, enraged steer, or a grizzly had I met him face to face even with a rifle in hand.  I could see nowhere but by looking straight up, for the willows were in places fifty feet high and a foot in diameter.  The willows where I came from were mere bushes, and these astonished me.  This bit of brush is still locally known as "The Willows," but the trees are all gone and the ground thickly covered with orchards and fine residences, the land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The sun rose without a cloud, and a little later the sea breeze from the bay blew gently over the valley, making the climate perfectly delightful in its temperate coolness, a true paradise on earth it seemed to me, if I was able to judge or set a value upon so beautiful a spot; and surely I had seen all sorts, good and poor, desert and valley, mountain and plain.</P>
107.sgm:<P>But I was poor in purse, and resolved I would seek first the gold mines and secure gold enough to buy a piece of this valley afterward.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When I had seen what was to be seen about San Jose I had a talk with my friends and found that Mr. Bennett favored going on to the mines at once and that Moody and Skinner thought they would remain a little while at least.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I went along in company with Bennett, and when we got a little way from San Jose, on the road to the Mission, the road seemed walled in on both sides with growing mustard ten or twelve feet high and all in blossom.  How so much mustard could grow, and grow so large, I could not understand.  I had seen a few plants in the gardens or fields which people used for greens, and here seemed to be enough to feed the nation, if they liked mustard greens.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The second day out we passed the big church at Mission San Jose and soon left the valley and turned into the mountains and when part way over we came to a stream which we followed up and came out into Livermore valley, where we found a road to follow.  Houses were scarce, and we camped a mile or so before we got to the Livermore ranch buildings.  There was very little sign of life about the place, and we soon went out of the valley and into the monntains again.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The first sign of settlement we saw when part way <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It was now fifteen miles to the San Joaquin river, and a level plain lay before us.  When our road turned into the river bottom we found the water too deep to get through safely, so we concluded to go on and try to find some place where we could cross.  On our way droves of antelopes could be seen frolicking over the broad plains, while in the distance were herds of elk winding their way from the mountains towards the river for water.  When far away their horns were the first things visible, and they much resembled the dry tops of dead pine trees, but a nearer view showed them to us as the proud monarchs of the plain.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When we came up opposite the mouth of the Merced river we concluded to try again to cross.  The river here, as below, was out of its banks, and the overflowed part was quite wide which we had to pass through before we could reach the river proper.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I waded in ahead of the team and sounded the depth of the river so as not to get in too deep water, and avoid if possible such accidents as might otherwise occur.  Sometimes the water was up to the wagon bed and it looked a little doubtful of our getting through in safety, but we made it at last.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We found a narrow strip of dry land along the river bank.  A town was on the east side of the San Joaquin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Here we camped for the night.  The mosquitoes soon found us, and they were all very hungry and had good teeth.  They annoyed me so that I moved my lodgings to the ferryboat, but here they quickly found me and troubled me all night.  These insects were the first I had seen since I left the lower Platte river, and I thought them as bad as on the Mississippi.</P>
107.sgm:<P>From here the road led up the Merced river near the bottom, and as we came near groves of willows, big, stately elk would start out and trot off proudly into the open plains to avoid danger.  These proud, big-horned monarchs of the plains could be seen in bunches scattered over the broad meadows, as well as an equal amount of antelope.  They all seemed to fear us, which was wise on their part, and kept out of rifle shot.  As were not starving as we were once, I did not follow them out on the open plain, for I thought I could get meat when we were more in need.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We followed up the river bottom and saw not a single house until we reached the road leading from Stockton to the Mariposa mines, where we found a ferry and a small store.  Here we learned that some men were mining a few miles up the river, so we drove on until we found a little work being done in a dry gulch near the river bank.  We made our camp at this spot and had plenty of wood, water and grass.  We found there was something to be learned in the art of gold mining.  We had no tools nor money, and had never seen a speck of native gold and did not know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Williams had been twice to Santa Fe from Missouri and had learned the Spanish language and could swear at them by note if necessary.  We now began work almost without tools, but our ground we had to work was quite shallow and Williams helped us out by loaning us some of his tools at times.  We soon succeeded in scratching together some of the yellow stuff and I went down to the store and bought a pan for five dollars, a shovel for ten dollars, and a poor pick cost me ten dollars more.  This took about two ounces of my money.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now worked harder than ever for about three weeks, but we could not save much and pay such high prices as were charged.  Our gulch claim was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Some others came and took up claims on the bar, and as the prospects were not as good as was wished, three of us concluded to go and try to find a better place.  The next day was Sunday and all lay in bed late.  Before I rose I felt something crawling on my breast and when I looked I found it to be an insect, slow in motion, resembling a louse, but larger.  He was a new emigrant to me and I wondered what he was.  I now took off my pants and found many of his kind in the seams.  I murdered all I could find, and when I got up I told Williams what I had found.  He said they hurt nobody and were called <HI REND="italics">piojos</HI>
107.sgm:<P>We started on our prospecting tour and went northeast to a place now called Big Oak Flat.  This was at the head of a small stream and there were several small gulches that emptied into it that paid well.  This flat was all taken up and a ditch was cut through to drain it.  A ship load of gold was expected to be found when it was worked.  A small town of tents had been pitched on both sides of the flat.  One side was occupied by gamblers, and many games were constantly carried on and were well patronized.  On the opposite side of the flat were many small tents, and around on the hillside some mules and jacks were feeding.  One of the little long-eared donkeys came down among the tents and went in one and commenced eating flour from the sack.  The owner of the flour ran to the tent, took his shot gun and fired a load of buck-shot into the donkey's hams.  The animal reeled and seemed shot fatally.  I now looked for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We now prospected further east, but nothing good enough was found.  The place we looked over was where the town of Garota now stands.  We concluded to go back, have a council, and go somewhere else.  On our way back we stopped to get dinner.  While I was around the fire, barefooted, I felt something crawl up my instep, and it proved to be another of those <HI REND="italics">piojos</HI>
107.sgm:<P>Gold dust was used to transact all business; all the coin was in the hands of the gentlemen gamblers.  Most miners found it necessary to have a small pair of scales in the breast pocket to weigh the dust so as not to have to trust some one who carried lead weights and often got more than his just dues.  Gold dust was valued at sixteen dollars an ounce.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now thought it would be best for two of us to take our mules and go down in the small hills and try to get some elk meat to take with us, as our route would be mostly through the unsettled part of the country, and no provisions could likely be procured, so Mr. Bradford of New Orleans and myself took our mules and went down where the hills were low and the game plenty.  We camped in a low ravine, staked out our mules and staid all night without a fire, believing that when we woke in the early morning some of the many herd of elk then in sight would be near us at daylight, and we could easily kill all we wanted without leaving camp; but we were disappointed.  Hundreds of the big-horned fellows were in sight, but none in rifle shot, and there was no chance for us to get any nearer to them.  We got near a couple of antelope and Mr. Bradford, who was a brag shot and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We went back to camp with the little we had killed and soon got ready to start north.  Bennett was to go with his team to Sacramento and wait there until he heard from us.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Four of us, mounted on mules, now started on our journey along the foothills without a road.  We struck the Tuolumne river at a ferry.  The stream was high and rapid and could not be forded, so we had to patronize the ferryman, and give him half an ounce apiece.  We thought such charges on poor and almost penniless emigrants were unjust.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The point we were seeking to reach was a new discovery called Gold Lake on Feather River, where many rich gulches that emptied into it had been worked, and the lake was believed to have at least a ship load of gold in it.  It was located high in the mountains and could be easily drained and a fortune soon obtained if we got there in time and said nothing to anyone we might meet on the road.  We might succeed in getting a claim before they were all taken up.  We followed along the foothills without a road, and when we came to the Stanislaus River we had to patronize a ferry and pay half an ounce each again.  We thought their scale weights were rather heavy and their ferrymen well paid.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We continued along the foothills without any trail until we struck the road from Sacramento to Hangtown.  This sounded like a bad name for a good village, but we found it was fittingly named after some ugly devils who were hanged there.  The first house <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Here we learned that Gold Lake was not as rich as reported, so we concluded to take the road and go to Coloma, the place where gold was first found on the American River.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We camped at Coloma all night.  Mr. Bradford got his mule shod and paid sixteen dollars, or in the mining phrase, an ounce of gold dust.  I visited the small town and found that the only lively business place in it was a large gambling house, and I saw money (gold dust) liberally used--sometimes hundreds of dollars bet on a single card.  When a few hundred or thousand were lost more would be brought on.  The purse would be set in the center of the table and the owners would take perhaps twenty silver dollars or checks, and when they were lost the deposited purse would be handed to the barkeeper, the amount weighed out and the purse returned.  When the purse was empty a friend of the better would bring another, and so the game went on almost in silence.  The game called Monte seemed to be the favorite.  How long these sacks of gold lasted or who eventually got the whole I never knew.  This was a new country with new people, and many seemed to be engaged in a business that was new, strange and hazardous.  The final result of all this was what puzzled me.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>We now followed the road up the mountain to Georgetown.  Here was a small village on the summit of the ridge and it seemed to be in a prosperous mining section.  After some inquiry about a good place to work we concluded to go down a couple of miles northeast of town on Can&tilde;on creek and go to work if vacant ground could be found.  There was a piece of creek bottom here that had not been much worked.  Georgia Flat above had been worked and paid well, and the Illinois and Oregon can&tilde;ons that emptied into the bottom here were rich, so we concluded to locate in the bottom.  Claims here in the flat were only fifteen feet square.  I located one and my notice told others that I would go to work on it as soon my partner came from Sacramento.  I sent my partner, Mr. Bennett a note telling him to come up.</P>
107.sgm:<P>While waiting for Mr. Bennett I took my pan and butcher knife and went into a dry gulch out of sight of the other campers and began work.  As the ground was mostly bare bed rock by scratching around I succeeded in getting three or four pans of dirt a day.  The few days I had to wait for Bennett I made eight dollars a day until my claim was worked out.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I then went to Georgetown to meet Bennett and family, and soon after my arrival they came well and safe.  All of them, even to the faithful camp dog, Cuff, were glad to see me.  Old Cuff followed me all around town, but when we got ready to start for camp the dog was gone and could not be found.  Some one had hidden him away knowing he could not be gotten any other way, for six ounces would not have bought him.  We had raised him in Wisconsin, made him a good deer dog, and with us he had crossed the dry and sandy deserts.  He had been a great protection to Bennett's children on the plains, and company for us all.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>We now located claims on the creek bottom.  The channel of the creek was claimed by Holman of Alabama and the Helms brothers of Missouri.  They had turned the stream into a ditch in order to work the bed of the stream, believing that their claims had all the gold in them.  Our claims joined theirs.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mr. W. M. Stockton, who left his family in Los Angeles, came with Mr. Bennett and went to work with us.  As everything here was very high we concluded to let Mr. Stockton take the team and go to Sacramento for provisions for our own use.  Flour and meat were each fifty cents a pound, potatoes twenty-five cents a pound and onions one dollar and twenty-five cents each.  Onions and potatoes eaten raw were considered very necessary to prevent and cure scurvy, which was quite a common complaint.  Whiskey, if not watered, cost one dollar a drink.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our claims were about ten feet deep.  The bottom was wet and a pump needed, so we went to a whip saw-mill and got four narrow strips one by three and one by five and twelve feet long, paying for them by weight, the price being twelve cents a pound.  Out of these strips we made a good pump by fixing a valve at the end and nailing a piece of green rawhide on a pole, which answered for a plunger, and with the pump set at forty-five degrees it worked easily and well.  One man could easily keep the water out and we made fair wages.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the creek bottom Mr. Bush of Missouri had a saloon.  The building was made mainly of brush, with a split piece for a counter, and another one for a shelf for his whiskey keg, a box of cigars, a few decks of cards and half a dozen glasses, which made up the entire stock of trade for the shop.  In front was a table made of two puncheons with a blanket thrown over all, and a few rough seats around.  There was no roof <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>There was also at this place five brothers by the name of Helms, also from Missouri.  Their names were Jim, Davenport, Wade, Chet and Daunt.  These men, with Mr. Holman, owned the bed of the stream, and their ground proved to be quite wet and disagreeable to work.  Mr. Holman could not well stand to work in the cold water, so he asked the privilege of putting in a hired man in his place, which was agreed to.  He then took up a claim for himself outside of the other claims, and this proved to be on higher bed rock and dry, and paid even better than the low claims where the Helms brothers were at work.  This was not what the Helms boys considered exactly fair, as Holman seemed to be getting rich the fastest, and as there was no law to govern them they held a free country court of their own, and decided the case to suit themselves; so they ordered Holman to come back and do his own work.  No fault was found with the hired man but what he did his work well enough, but they were jealous and would not be bound by their agreement.</P>
107.sgm:<P>But this decision did not satisfy all parties, and it was agreed to submit the case to three men, and I was chosen one of them.  We held Court on the ground and heard both sides of the story, after which we retired to the shade of a bunch of willows to hold council over the matter with the result that we soon came to a decision in favor of Mr. Holman.  About this time one of the Helms boys began to quarrel with Holman and grew terribly mad, swearing all kinds of vengeance, and making the can&tilde;on ring with the loudest kind of Missouri oaths.  Finally he picked up a rock to kill Holman, but the latter was quick with his pistol, a single shot duelling piece, and as they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We now went back to our work again at our claims, mine being between Helms' cabin and the saloon.  Holman stopped to talk a little while on my claim, while I was down below at work, and soon Helms came back again in a terrible rage, stopping on the opposite side of the hole from Holman, swearing long and loud, and flourishing a big pistol with which he threatened to blow Holman into purgatory.  He was so much enraged that he fairly frothed at the mouth like a rabid dog.  The men were about twenty feet apart, and I at the bottom of the hole ten feet below, but exactly between them.  It seemed to me that I was in some little danger for Helms had his big pistol at full cock, and as it pointed at me quite as often as it did at anybody, I expect I dodged around a little to keep out of range.  Helms was terribly nervous, and trembled as he cursed, but Holman was cool and drew his weapon deliberately, daring Helms to raise his hand or he would kill him on the instant.  Helms now began to back off, but carefully kept his eye on Holman and continued his abuse as he went on to the saloon to get something to replenish his courage.  Holman, during the whole affair, talked very calmly and put considerable emphasis into his words when he dared Helms to make a hostile motion.  He was a true Alabamian and could be neither scared nor driven.  He soon sold out, however, and went to a more congenial camp for he said these people were cowardly enough to waylay and kill him unawares.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Soon after this unpleasantness a man and wife who lived in Georgetown came into notice, and while the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>All of a sudden the Helms boys and others gathered at the saloon, took drinks all around, and did a good deal of swearing, which was the biggest portion of the proceedings of the meeting; and then they all started off toward town, swearing and yelling as they struggled up the steep mountain side--a pack of reckless, back-woods Missourians who seemed to smell something bloody.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It was near night when they all came back and gathered around the saloon again.  They were all in unusual good humor as they related the adventures of the afternoon, and bragged of their bravery and skill in performing the little job they had just completed, which consisted in taking the murderer out to the first convenient oak tree, and with the assistance of some sailors in handling the ropes, hoisting the fellow from the ground with a noose around his neck, and to the "Heave, yo heave" of the sailor boys, pulling the rope that had been passed over an elevated limb.  They watched the suspended body till the last spark of life went out, and then went back to town leaving the corpse hanging for somebody else to cut down and bury.  They whooped and yelled at the top of their voices as they came down along the mountain trail, and at the saloon they related to the crowd that had gathered there how they had helped to hang the -- who had killed his wife.  They said justice must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>These miners, many of them, were inveterate gamblers and played every night till near day-light, with no roof over them, and their only clothes a woolen shirt and overalls which must have been a little scanty in the cool nights which settled down over the mountain camp; but they bore it all in their great desire for card playing.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Near by there were three men who worked and slept together, every night dividing the dust which each put into a purse at the head of his bed.  One day the news came to the saloon that one of the purses had been stolen.  The Helms boys talked it over and concluded that as one of the men had gone to town, he might know something about the lost dust; so they went to town and there, after a little search, found their man in a gambling house.  After a little while they invited him to return to camp with them, and all started together down the mountain; but when about half way down they halted suddenly under an oak tree and accused their man of knowing where his partner's money was.  This he strongly denied, and was very positive in his denial till he felt the surprise of a rope around his neck, with the end over a limb, and beginning to haul pretty taut in a direction that would soon elevate his body from the ground, when he weakened at their earnestness and asked them to hold on a minute.  As the rope slackened he owned up he had the dust and would give it up if they would not send the news to his folks in Missouri.  This was agreed to and the thief was advised to leave at once for some distant camp, or they might yet expose him.  He was not seen afterward.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>The boys bragged a good deal of their detective ability after this, and said that a little hanging would make a--thief tell the truth even if it did not make an honest man of him, and that a thief would be lucky if he got through with them and saved his life.  Their law was "Hanging for stealing."</P>
107.sgm:<P>The Helms brothers were said to be from western Missouri, and in early days were somewhat of the border ruffian order, and of course preferred to live on the frontier rather than in any well regulated society.  As the country became settled and improved around them they moved on.  A school house was an indication that the country was getting too far advanced for them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They crossed the plains in 1849 and began mining operations near Georgetown in Placer county.  It was well known that they were foremost in all gambling, and in taking a hand in any excitement that came up, and as a better class of miners came in they moved on, keeping ahead with the prospectors, and just out of reach of law and order.  If anyone else committed a crime they were always quite eager to be on the vigilance committee, and were remarkably happy when punishing a wrong-doer.  When any of their number was suspected it was generally the case that they moved quickly on and so escaped.  It was reported, however, that one of their number was in the hands of the vigilance committee and hanged in Montana.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After a time, it is said, they went down to southern California and settled on the border of the Colorado desert, about seventy-five miles east of San Diego, in a mountainous and desert region.  Here they found a small tribe of Indians, and by each marrying a squaw they secured rights equal to any of them in the occupation of the land.  This was considered pretty sharp practice, but it suited them and they became big chiefs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It is said that their property consists of extensive pasture lands on which they raise cattle, and that they always go well armed with pistol, rifle and riata.  It is said that some of the Indians undertook to claim that the Helms brothers were intruders, but that in some mysterious way accidents happened to most of them and they were left without any serious opposition.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They are very hospitable and entertaining to people who visit them, provided they do not know too much about the men or their former deeds or history.  In this case ignorance is bliss and it is folly, if not dangerous, to be too wise.  They have made no improvements, but live in about the same style as the Indians and about on a level with them morally and intellectually.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There may be those who know them well, but the writer only knows them by hearsay and introduces them as a certain type of character found in the early days.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As I was now about barefoot I went to town to look for boots or shoes.  There were no shoes, and a pair of the cheapest boots I found hanging at the door were priced to me at two ounces.  This seemed a wonderful sum for a pair of coarse cow-hide boots that would sell in the state for two dollars and fifty cents; but I had to buy them at the price or go barefoot.</P>
107.sgm:<P>While rambling around town I went into a round tent used as a gambling saloon.  The occupants were mostly men, and one or two nice appearing ladies, but perhaps of doubtful reputation.  The men were of all classes--lawyer, doctors, preachers and such others as wanted to make money without work.  The miners, especially sailors, were eager to try to beat the games.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:While I was here the table was only occupied by a sailor lying upon it and covered with a green blanket.  All at once the fellow noticed a large <HI REND="italics">piojo</HI>
107.sgm:<P>Our claims, by this time, were nearly worked out, and I thought that I had upward of two thousand dollars in gold, and the pile looked pretty big to me.  It seemed to me that these mines were very shallow and would soon be worked out, at least in a year or two.  I could not see that the land would be good for much for farming when no irrigation could be easily got, and the Spanish people seemed to own all the best land as well as the water; so that a poor fellow like myself would never get rich at farming here.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Seeing the matter in this light I thought it would be best to take my money and go back to Wisconsin where government land was good and plenty, and with even my little pile I could soon be master of a good farm in a healthy country, and I would there be rich enough.  Thus reasoning I decided to return to Wisconsin, for I could not see how a man could ever be a successful farmer in a country where there were only two seasons, one wet and the other long and dry.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I went out and hunted up my mule which I had turned out to pasture for herself, and found her entirely alone.  After a little coaxing I caught her and brought her with me to camp, where I offered her for sale.  She was sleek and fat and looked so well that Helms said that if I could beat him shooting he would buy both mule and gun; so three or four of us tried our skill.  My opponents boasted a good deal of their superior marksmanship, but on the trial, which began at short range, I beat them all pretty badly.  Helms was as good as his word and offered me twelve ounces <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Helms was now going to the valley to have a winter's hunt, for here the snow would fall four feet deep and no mining work could be done till spring, when he would return and work his claim again.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I now had all in my pocket, and when I got ready to go Mrs. Bennett was much affected at knowing that I would now leave them, perhaps never to return to them again.  She clasped me in her arms, embraced me as she would her own son, and said "Good luck to you--God bless you, for I know that you saved all our lives.  I don't suppose you will ever come back, but we may come back to Wisconsin sometime and we will try to find a better road than the one we came over.  Give my best regards to all who inquire after us."  She shook my hand again and again with earnest pressure, and cried and sobbed bitterly.  As I climbed the mountain she stood and watched me so long as I was in sight, and with her handkerchief waved a final adieu.  I was myself much affected at this parting, for with Mr. and Mrs. Bennett had been really a home to me; she had been to me as a mother, and it was like leaving a home fireside to go away from them.  I was now starting out among strangers, and those I should meet might be the same good friends as those whom I had left behind.  Mr. Bennett and I had for many years been hunting companions; I had lived at his house in the East, and we never disagreed but had always been good friends.  I had now a traveling companion whose home was in Iowa Co., Wis., where I had lived for several years, and we went along together by way of Greenwood where there was a small mining town built of tents, many of which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We crossed the American River at Salmon Falls, and walked thence on to Sacramento City, which was the largest town we had seen on the coast.  The houses were all small wooden ones, but business seemed to be brisk, and whiskey shops and gambling houses plenty.  One game played with three cards, called three card Monte, was played openly on the streets, with good boxes for tables.  Every one who came along was urged to bet by the dealer who would lay out his cards face up so all could see them, then turn them over and shuffle them and say "I'll bet six ounces that no one can put his finger on the queen."  I watched this a while and saw that the dealer won much oftener than he lost, and it seemed to be a simple and easy way to make a living when money was plenty.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We strolled around town looking at the sights, and the different business places, the most lively of which had plenty of music inside, lots of tables with plenty of money on them, and many questionable lady occupants.  These business places were liberally patronized and every department flourishing, especially the bar.  Oaths and vulgar language were the favorite style of speech, and very many of the people had all the whiskey down them that they could conveniently carry.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We got through the town safely and at the river we found a steamboat bound for San Francisco and the fare was two ounces.  The runners were calling loudly for passengers, and we were told we could never make the trip any cheaper for they had received a telegram from below saying that no boat would come up again <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>At this time there was no telegraph and the delay was a lucky one for us.  We took passage and went to San Francisco that night, where we put up at a cheap tavern near where the Custom House now stands.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Here we learned that we would have to wait two days before a ship would sail for Panama, and during this time we surveyed the town from the hill-tops and walked all over the principal streets.  It was really a small, poorly built, dirty looking place, with few wharves, poor, cheap hotels, and very rough inhabitants.  There were lots of gambling houses full of tables holding money, and the rooms filled with pretty rough looking people, except the card dealers, most of whom wore white shirts, and a few sported plug hats.  There was also a "right smart sprinkling" of ladies present who were well dressed and adorned with rich jewelry, and their position seemed to be that of paying teller at the gambling tables.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The buildings seemed to be rather cheap, although material was very expensive, as well as labor, mechanics of all sorts getting as much as ten or twelve dollars per day for work.  Coin seemed to be scarce, and a great deal of the money needed on the gambling tables was represented by iron washers, each of which represented an ounce of gold.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I noticed some places in the streets where it was muddy and a narrow walk had been made out of boxes of tobacco, and sometimes even bacon was used for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>A man at the tavern where we stopped tried hard to sell me a fifty-vara lot there in the edge of the mud (near where the Custom House now stands) for six hundred dollars.  I thought this a pretty high price and besides such a lot was no use to me, for I had never lived in town and could not easily see the uses to which such property could be put.  It seemed very doubtful to me that this place would ever be much larger or amount to much, for it evidently depended on the mines for a support, and these were so shallow that it looked as if they would be worked out in a short time and the country and town both be deserted.  And I was not alone in thinking that the country would soon be deserted, for accustomed as we all had been to a showery summer, these dry seasons would seem entirely to prevent extensive farming.  Some cursed the country and said they were on their way to "good old Missouri, God's own country."  Hearing so much I concluded it would be wise not to invest, but to get me back to Wisconsin again.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The steamer we took passage in was the Northener, advertised to sail on the twenty-ninth day of November, 1850.  The cabin room was all engaged, and they charged us nine ounces for steerage passage; but I did not care as much about their good rooms and clean sheets as I would have done at one time, for I had been a long time without either and did not care to pay the difference.  When we were at the ship's office we had to take our turns to get tickets.  One man weighed out the dust, and another filled out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The passenger list footed up four hundred and forty, and when all got on board, at about ten o'clock in the morning, there was hardly room for all to stand up comfortably.  It seemed to me to be a very much over-crowded boat in which to put to sea, but we floated out into the current, with all the faces toward the shore, and hats and handkerchiefs waving goodbye to those who had come down to see the home-goers safely off.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As we passed out through the wonderful Golden Gate and the out going current met the solid sea, each seemed wrestling for the mastery, and the waves beat and dashed themselves into foam all around us, while the spray came over the bows quite lively, frightening some who did not expect such treatment.  When we had passed this scene of watery commotion and got out into the deeper water, the sea smoothed down a great deal; but sea-sickness began to claim its victims, at first a few, then more and more, till the greater part were quite badly affected.  I had a touch of it myself, but managed to keep my feet by bracing out pretty wide, and hugging everything I could get hold of that seemed to offer a steady support, and I did not lie down until after I had thrown my breakfast overboard.</P>
107.sgm:<P>By the time dark came nearly every one was on his back, mostly on deck, and no one asleep.  All were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Next morning the decks looked pretty filthy, and about all the food the passengers had eaten was now spread about the decks in a half digested condition.  Most of the passengers were very sick.  With the early daylight the sailors coupled the hose to the big steam pump, and began the work of washing and scrubbing off the decks, and though many begged hard to be left alone as they were, with all the filth, a good flood of salt water was the only answer they received to their pleading, and they were compelled to move, for the sailors said they could not change their orders without the Captain, and he would not be out of bed till ten o'clock or later.  So the cursing and swearing went for naught, and the decks were clean again.  There were no deaths to report, but there were very few to do duty at the tables in eating the food prepared for them.  After a few days the tables filled up again, and now it took them so long to eat that there had to be an order for only two meals a day or there would not have been a chance for all to get something.  They were terribly hungry now, and every one seemed to try his best to take in provisions enough to last him for at least twelve hours.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As the fellows began to get their sea legs on, they began to talk as if they were still in California, and could easily manage any little boat like this, and could run things as they did when they crossed the plains, where no sheriff, court or judge had anything to say about matters, and all law was left behind.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>One morning at breakfast, when the table was full and the waiters scarce, some of these fellows swore and talked pretty rough, and as a waiter was passing a blue-blood from New Orleans rose in his seat and called for sugar, holding the empty bowl in his hand, but the waiter passed on and paid no attention, and when a mulatto waiter came along behind him the angry man damned him the worst he could, ordering him to bring a bowl of sugar, quick.  This waiter did not stop and the Louisiana man threw the bowl at the waiter's head, but missed it, and the bowl went crashing against the side of the ship.  I expected surely the Captain and his men would come and put the unruly fellow in irons, and there might be a fight or a riot, so I cut my meal short and went on deck about as soon as I could do so, thinking that would be a safer place.  But the Captain seemed to know about how to manage such fellows, and never left his stateroom, which I think was a wise move.  The darky did not make his appearance at table afterwards, and the man who threw the bowl said that colored folks had to mind a gentleman when he spoke to them, or fare worse.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The Captain now got out his passenger list, and we all had to pass through a narrow space near the wheelhouse and every one answer to his name and show his ticket.  This made work for about one day.  Some stowaways were found and put down into the hole to heave coal.  One day the Captain and mate were out taking an observation on the sun when a young <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>414</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Many of the sea-sick ones did not get up so soon, and some died of that, or something else, and their bodies were sewed up in blankets with a bushel of coal at their feet to sink them, and thrown overboard.  The bodies were laid out on a plank at the ship's side, the Captain would read a very brief service, and the sailors would, at the appropriate time, raise the end of the plank so that the body slid off and went down out of sight in a moment.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In due time we went into the harbor of Acapulco for water and coal.  Here nearly every one went on shore, and as there was no wharf for the vessel to lie to, the native canoes had many passengers at a dollar apiece for passage money.  Out back of town there was a small stream of clear water which was warm and nice to bathe in, and some places three or four feet deep, so that a great many stripped off for a good wash which was said to be very healthful in this climate.  Many native women were on hand with soap and towels ready to give any one a good scrubbing for <HI REND="italics">dos reales</HI>
107.sgm:<P>As I returned to town the streets seemed to be deserted, and I saw one man come out on an adjoining street, and after running a few steps, fall down on his face.  Hearing the report of a gun at the same time, I hurried on to get out of danger, but I afterward learned that the man was a travelling gambler who had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>415</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Near the beach were some large trees, and under them dancing was going on to the music of the guitar.  There were plenty of pretty Spanish girls for partners, and these and our boys made up an interesting party.  The girls did not seem at all bashful or afraid of the boys, and though they could not talk together very much they got along with the sign language, and the ladies seemed very fond of the <HI REND="italics">Americauos</HI>
107.sgm:<P>There was a fort here, a regular moss-backed old concern, and the soldiers were bare footed and did not need much clothing.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The cattle that were taken on board here were made to swim out to the ship and then, with a rope around their horns, hoisted on deck, a distance of perhaps forty feet above the water.  The maddened brutes were put into a secure stall ready for the ship's butcher.  The small boys came around the ship in canoes, and begged the passengers to throw them out a dime, and when the coin struck the water they would dive for it, never losing a single one.  One man dropped a bright bullet and the boy who dove for it was so enraged that he called him a d--d Gringo (Englishman.)  None of these boys wore any clothes.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This town, like all Spanish towns, was composed of one-story houses, with dry mud, fire-proof walls.  The country around looked very mountainous and barren, and comfortably warm.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After two days we were called on board, and soon set sail for sea again; and now, as we approached the equator, it became uncomfortably warm and an awning was put over the upper deck.  All heavy clothing was laid aside, and anyone who had any amount of money on his person was unable to conceal it; but no one seemed to have any fear of theft, for a thief could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>416</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>A few days out from here and we were again mustered as before to show our tickets, which were carefully examined.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It seemed strange to me that the water was the poorest fare we had.  It was sickish tasting stuff, and so warm it would do very well for dish-water.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There were many interesting things to see.  Sometimes it would be spouting whales; sometimes great black masses rolling on the water, looking like a ship bottom upward, which some said were black-fish.  Some fish seemed to be at play, and would jump ten feet or more out of the water.  The flying fish would skim over the waves as the ship's wheels seemed to frighten them; and we went through a hundred acres of porpoises, all going the same way.  The ship plowed right through them, but none seemed to get hurt by the wheels.  Perhaps they were emigrants like ourselves in search of a better place.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It now became terribly hot, and the sun was nearly overhead at noon.  Sometimes a shark could be seen along-side, and though he seemed to make no effort, easily kept up with the moving ship.  Occasionally we saw a sea snake navigating the ocean all by himself.  I did not understand how these fellows went to sea and lived so far from land.  The flying fish seemed to be more plentiful as we went along, and would leave the water and scud along before us.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We had evening concerts on the forecastle, managed by the sailors.  Their songs were not sacred songs by any means, and many of them hardly fit to be heard by delicate ears.  We again had to run the gauntlet of the narrow passage and have our tickets looked over, and this time a new stowaway was found, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>420</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>417</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>As we were nearing Panama the doctor posted a notice to the mast cautioning us against eating much fruit while on shore, as it was very dangerous when eaten to excess.  We anchored some little distance from the shore and had to land in small boats managed by the natives.  I went in one, and when the boat grounded at the beach the boatman took me on his back and set me on shore, demanding two dollars for the job, which I paid, and he served the whole crowd in the same way.  The water here was blood warm, and they told me the tide ran very high.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This was a strange old town to me, walled in on all sides, a small plaza in the center with a Catholic church on one side, and the other houses were mostly two story.  On the side next to the beach was a high, thick wall which contained cells that were used for a jail, and on top were some dismounted cannon, long and old fashioned.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The soldiers were poor, lazy fellows, barefooted, and had very poor looking guns.  Going out and in all had to pass through a large gateway, but they asked no questions.  The streets were very narrow and dirty and the sleeping rooms in the second story of the houses seemed to be inhabited by cats.  For bed clothes was needed only a single sheet.  On the roofs all around sat turkey buzzards, and anything that fell in the streets that was possible for them to eat, was gobbled up very quickly.  They were as tame as chickens, and walked around as fearless and lordly as tame turkeys.  In consideration of their cleaning up the streets without pay, they were protected by law.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The old town of Panama lies a little south in the edge of the sea, and was destroyed by an earthquake long ago I was told.  To me, raised in the north, everything was very new and strange in way of living, style of building and kind of produce.  There were donkeys, parrots and all kinds of monkeys in plenty.  Most of the women were of very dark complexion, and not dressed very stylishly, while the younger population did not have even a fig leaf, or anything to take its place.  The adults dressed very economically, for the days are summer days all the year round, and the clothing is scanty and cheap for either sex.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The cattle were small, pale red creatures, and not inclined to be very fat, and the birds mostly of the parrot kind.  The market plaza is outside the walls, and a small stream runs through it, with the banks pretty thickly occupied by washerwomen.  All the washing was done without the aid of a fire.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On the plaza there were plenty of donkeys loaded with truck of all sorts, from wood, green grass, cocoanuts and sugar-cane to parrots, monkeys and all kinds of tropical fruits.  Outside the walls the houses were made of stakes interwoven with palm leaves, and everything was green as well as the grass and trees.  Very little of the ground seemed to be cultivated, and the people were lazy and idle, for they could live so easily on the wild products of the country.  A white man here would soon sweat out all his ambition and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>419</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>The cabin passengers engaged all the horses and mules the country afforded on which to ride across the Chagres River, so it fell to the lot of myself and companion to transfer ourselves on foot, which was pretty hard work in the hot and sultry weather.  My gold dust began to grow pretty heavy as I went along, and though I had only about two thousand dollars, weighing about ten pounds, it seemed to me that it weighed fifty pounds by the way that it bore down upon my shoulders and wore sore places on them.  It really was burdensome.  I had worn it on my person night and day ever since leaving the mines, and I had some little fear of being robbed when off the ship.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our road had been some day paved with cobble stones.  At the outskirts of the town we met a native coming in with a big green lizard, about two feet long, which he was hauling and driving along with a string around its neck.  I wondered if this was not a Panama butcher bringing in a fresh supply of meat.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When we reached the hills on our way from Panama, the paved road ended and we had only a mule trail to follow.  The whole country was so densely timbered that no man could go very far without a cleared road.  In some places we passed over hills of solid rock, but it was of a soft nature so that the trail was worn down very deep, and we had to take the same regular steps that the mules did, for their tracks were worn down a foot or more.  On the road we would occasionally meet a native with a heavy pack <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>It looked to me as if this trail might be just such a one as one would expect robbers to frequent, for it would of course be expected that Californians would carry considerable money with them, and we might reasonably look out for this sort of gentry at any turn of the trail.  We were generally without weapons, and we should have to deliver on demand, and if any one was killed the body could easily be concealed in the thick brush on either side of the trail, and no special search for anyone missing would occur.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About noon one day we came to a native hut, and saw growing on a tree near by something that looked like oranges, and we made very straight tracks with the idea of picking some and having a feast, but some of the people in the shanty called out to us and made motions for us not to pick them for they were no good; so we missed our treat of oranges and contented ourselves with a big drink of water and walked on.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After a little more travel we came to another shanty made of poles and palm leaves, occupied by an American.  He was a tall, raw-boned, cadaverous looking way-side renegade who looked as if the blood had all been pumped out of his veins, and he claimed to be sick.  He said he was one of the Texas royal sons.  We applied for some dinner and he lazily told us there were flour, tea and bacon and that we could help ourselves.  I wet up some flour and baked some cakes, made some poor tea, and fried some bacon.  We all got a sort of dinner out of his pantry stuff, and left <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>421</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Before it was entirely dark many who rode horses came along, many of them ladies, and following the custom of the country, they all rode astride.  Among this crowd was one middle-aged and somewhat corpulent old fellow, by profession a sea-captain, who put on many airs.  The old fellow put on his cool white coat--in fact, a white suit throughout--and in this tropical climate he looked very comfortable, indeed, thus attired.  He filled his breast pocket with fine cigars, and put in the other pocket a flask with some medicine in it which was good for snake bites, and also tending to produce courage in case the man, not used to horse-back riding, should find his natural spirits failing.  The rest of his luggage was placed on pack animals, and in fact the only way luggage was carried in those days was either on the backs of donkeys or men.</P>
107.sgm:<P>All was ready for a start, and the captain in his snow-white suit was mounted on a mule so small that his feet nearly touched the ground.  The little animal had a mind of his own, and at first did not seem inclined to start out readily, but after a bit concluded to follow his fellow animals, and all went well.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The rider was much amused at what he saw; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>At one of these performances the mule evidently concluded the sea before him was not safe, for when the captain tried to persuade him to cross his persuasions had no effect.  Then he coaxed him with voice gentle, soft and low, with the result that the little animal took a few very short steps and then came to anchor again.  Then the captain began to get slightly roiled in temper, and the voice was not so gentle, sweet and low, but it had no greater effect upon his craft.  He began to get anxious, for the others had gone on, and he thought perhaps he might be left.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Now, this sea-faring man had armed his heels with the large Spanish spurs so common in the country, and bringing them in contact with the force due to considerable impatience, Mr. Mule was quite suddenly and painfully aware of the result.  This was harsher treatment than he could peaceably submit to, and at the second application of the spurs a pair of small hoofs were very high in the air and the captain very low on his back in the mud and water, having been blown from the hurricane deck of his craft in a very sudden and lively style.  The philosophical mule stood very still and looked on while the white coat and pantaloons were changing to a dirty brown, and watched the captain as he waded out, to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Both the man and beast looked very doubtful of each other's future actions, but the man shook the water off and bestowed some lively kicks on his mule-ship which made him bounce into and through the mud-hole, and the captain, still holding the bridle, followed after.  Once across the pool the captain set his marine eye on the only craft that had been too much for his navigation and said "Vengeance should be mine," and in this doubtful state of mind he cautiously mounted his beast again and fully resolved to stick to the deck, hereafter, at all hazards, he hurried on and soon overtook the train again, looking quite like a half drowned rooster.  The others laughed at him and told him they could find better water a little way ahead, at the river, and they would see him safely in.  The captain was over his pet, and made as much fun as any of them, declaring that he could not navigate such a bloody craft as that in such limited sea room, for it was dangerous even when there was no gale to speak of.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The ladies did not blush at the new and convenient costumes which they saw in this country, and laughed a good deal over the way of traveling they had to adopt.  Any who were sick were carried in a kind of chair strapped to the back of a native.  Passengers were strung along the road for miles, going and coming.  We would occasionally sit down awhile and let the sweat run off while a party of them passed us.  Some were mounted on horses, some on mules, and some on donkeys, and they had to pay twelve dollars for the use of an animal for the trip.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our night at this wayside deadfall was not much better than some of the nights about Death Valley, but as I was used to lowfare, I did not complain as some did.  This seemed a wonderful country to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>424</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>It seemed as if there were too many plants for the ground to support, and so they grew on the big limbs of the trees all around, the same as the mistletoe on the oak, only there were ever so many different kinds.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The weather was very clear, and the sun so hot that many of the travelers began to wilt and sit down by the roadside to rest.  Many walked along very slowly and wore long faces.  The road from Panama to Crucez, on the Chagres River, was eighteen miles long, and all were glad when they were on the last end of it.  The climate here seems to take all the starch and energy out of a man's body, and in this condition he must be very cautious or some disease will overtake him and he will be left to die without burial for his body if he has no personal friends with him.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We started on the next morning, and on our way stepped over a large ship anchor that lay across the trail.  I suppose the natives had undertaken to pack it across the isthmus and found it too heavy for them.  Perhaps it was for Capt. Kidd, the great pirate, for it is said that he often visited Panama in the course of his cruising about in search of treasures.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Passing along a sandy place in the trail, a snake crossed and left his track, big as a stovepipe it seemed to be, and after this we kept a sharp watch for big snakes that might be in waiting to waylay us for game.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There were plenty of monkeys and parrots climbing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>425</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>When we reached the Chagres River we hired a boat of an Irishman for the trip down.  I wondered if there was a place on earth so desolate that the "Paddy" would not find it.  The boat for the journey cost two hundred dollars, and would hold passengers enough so that it would cost us ten dollars each, at any rate, and perhaps a little more.  Two natives had charge of the boat and did the navigating.  There were two ladies among the passengers, and when the two natives, who I suppose were the captain and mate of the craft, came on board, clad very coolly in Panama hats, the ladies looked at them a little out of the corners of their eyes and made the best of it.  Our two navigators took the oars and pulled slowly down the stream.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Nothing but water and evergreen trees could we see, for the shore on either hand was completely hidden by the dense growth that hung over and touched the water.  On a mud bar that we passed a huge alligator lay, taking a sun bath, and though many shots were fired at him he moved away very leisurely.  No one could get on shore without first clearing a road through the thick brushes and vines along the bank.  On the way one of our boatmen lost his hat, his only garment, into the river, and overboard he went, like a dog, and soon had it and climbed on board again.  I wondered why some of the big alligators did not make a snap at him.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The water in the run looked very roily and dirty, and no doubt had fever in it.  The only animals we saw were monkeys and alligators, and there were parrots in the trees.  The farther we went down the stream <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>426</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>We had very little to eat, and all we could buy was sugar cane, bananas, monkeys and parrots.  We kept a sharp eye out for robbers, keeping together as much as we could, for we knew that all returning Californians would be suspected of having money.  Most all of them were ready for war except myself who had no weapon of any kind.  All of these people had a bad name, and every one of them carried a long bladed knife called a Macheta, with which they could kill a man at a single blow.  But with all our fears we got through the night safely, and in the morning found our boatmen who had hidden away.  We waited not for breakfast, but sailed away as soon as we could, and reached Chagres, near the mouth of the river, before night.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The river banks here are not more than three feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>427</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Before the bell rung for meals a long string of hungry men would form in line, and at the first tap would make a rush for the table like a flock of sheep.  After all were seated a waiter came around and collected a dollar from each one, and we thought this paid pretty well for the very poor grub they served afterwards.</P>
107.sgm:<P>No ship had as yet been in sight to take us away from this lowest, dirtiest, most unhealthful place on earth, and the prospect of remaining here had nothing very charming about it.  The river was full of alligators, so the bathing was dangerous, and the whole country was about fit for its inhabitants, which were snakes, alligators, monkeys, parrots and lazy negroes.  It could not have been more filthy if the dregs of the whole earth had been dumped here, and cholera and yellow fever were easy for a decent man to catch.</P>
107.sgm:<P>My companion and I went out on the beach a mile or two to get the salt water breeze, and leave the stinking malaria for those who chose to stay in the hot, suffocating village, and here we would stay until nearly night.  Across a small neck of water was what was called a fort.  It could hardly be seen it was so covered with moss and vines, but near the top could be seen something that looked like old walls.  There was no sign of life about it, and I should judge it was built at some very early day.  Surely there was nothing here to protect, for the whole country did not seem able to support even a few barefooted soldiers.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>Some men who wandered along up the river bank, following a path, said they had seen some dead human bodies thrown into the swamp and left, probably because it was easier than putting them under ground.</P>
107.sgm:<P>For a bedroom I hired a little platform which a store keeper had placed before his store, where I slept, and paid a dollar for the privilege.  Some one walked around near me all night, and I dared not close more than one eye at a time for fear of losing a little bag of gold dust.  This little bag of gold was getting to be a great burden to me in this sickly climate, and the vigilant guard I had to keep over so small a treasure was very tiresome.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The second night no steamer came, but on the third morning the steamer was riding at anchor three or four miles out, and soon after a ship came in from the Atlantic end of the Nicaragua route with one thousand passengers, there being no steamer there for them to take a passage home on, and so they had to come here for a start.  This filled the little town to over-flowing, but as the ship that had arrived was the Georga, one of the largest afloat, all could go if they only could endure the fare.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now had to go in small boats from the shore to the ship, and the trip cost two dollars and a half.  I waited till I had seen some of the boats make a trip or two, and then choosing one that had a sober skipper, I made the venture.  It was said that one drunken boatman allowed his boat to drift into some breakers and all were lost.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I tell you I was over anxious to get out of this country, for I well knew that if I stayed very long I should stay forever, for one like myself raised in a healthful climate, could not remain long without taking some of the fatal diseases the country was full of.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We made the trip to the vessel safely, and as our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>429</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>It took the most of two days to get the people on board, and when they were counted up there were one thousand four hundred and forty, all told.  This steamer had a very long upper deck and a comparatively short keel, and rolled very badly; and as for me, I had swallowed so much of the deadly malaria of the isthmus that I soon got very seasick, and the first day or two were very unpleasant.  I went to the bar and paid two bits for a glass of wine to help my appetite, but it staid with me no longer than time enough to reach the ship's side.  When night came the decks were covered with sleepy men, and if the weather had been rough and all sick, as was the case when we left San Francisco, we should have had more filthy decks than we had even on that occasion.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Approaching the harbor at Havana, Cuba, we seemed to be going head foremost against a wall of solid rock, but when within speaking distance an officer came in sight on the fort right before us, and shouted through his speaking trumpet, saying:--"Why don't you salute us?"  Our officer said, "You <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>430</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>A lot of armed soldiers were placed a short distance back on the high ground and no one was allowed to go beyond them.  We now had a port officer on board who had entire charge of the ship, and if anyone wanted to go to the city, across the bay two or three miles, he had to pay a dollar for a pass.  This pass business made the blue bloods terribly angry, and they swore long and loud, and the longer they talked the madder they got, and more bitter in their feelings, so that they were ready to fight (not with sugar-bowls this time.)</P>
107.sgm:<P>The weather here was very warm and the heat powerful, and as these fellows saw there was only one course to be pursued if they wanted to get on shore, they slowly took passes good for all day and paid their dollar for them, and also another dollar each to the canoe men to take them to the city.  Myself and companion also took passes and went over.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Arriving at the city we walked a short distance and came to the plaza, which is not a very large one.  Here was a single grave nicely fenced in, and across the plaza were some large two-story houses in front of which was stationed a squad of cavalry standing as motionless as if every man of them was a marble statue.  We kept on the opposite side of the street, and chancing to meet a man whom we rightly supposed to be an Englishman, we inquired about the grave on the plaza and were informed that it was that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Just then we noticed the cavalry moving up the street at a slow gallop, and so formed that a close carriage was in the center of the squad.  As they rushed by and we gazed at them with purely American curiousity, our new English friend raised our hats for us and held them till the cavalcade had passed, merely remarking that the Governor General was within the carriage.  We spoke perhaps a bit unpleasantly when we asked him why he was so ungentlemanly in his treatment of us as to remove our hats, but he said:--"My friends, if I had not taken off your hats for you as a friend, some of those other fellows would have knocked them off, so I did for you an act of greatest kindness, for every one removes his hat when the Governor General passes."  He also informed us that the special occasion for this rather pompous parade was the execution of some criminals at a park or prison not far away, and that this was done by beheading them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our friend proposed that we also walk out in that direction, and we went with him to the edge of the city, but when he turned into a by path that did not seem much frequented, we declined to follow farther, and turned back along the open road.  The path looked to us a sort of robber's route, and not exactly safe for unarmed men like us in a strange country.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The man followed us back and took us into a large, airy saloon, in the center of which a big fountain was playing, and the great basin in which the water fell was filled with beautiful fish.  Our friend called for an iced drink for each of us, and as we sat at the table we tasted it and found it rather intoxicating.  For this they charged us one dollar each, but we noticed that our friend paid nothing, and we set him down as a sort of capper, after the style we had seen at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>A chaise passed us, containing two young ladies with complexions white and fair, and eyes and hair black, in striking contrast.  The carriage was drawn by two horses tandem, the horse in the shafts being mounted by a big negro of very dignified appearance, dressed in livery and having top boots that came to his knees.  This was the only vehicle of the kind we saw on the streets.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We did not dare to go very far alone, for with our ignorance of the Spanish language we might go astray and not get back to the ship within the lifetime of our passes, and not knowing how much trouble that might cause us, we were naturally a little timid; so we took a boat back to the ship, and when on board again we felt safe.  We had only about four dollars cash left.</P>
107.sgm:<P>A big gang of darkies were coaling the ship.  Each one carried a large tub full of coal upon his head and poured it down into the ship's hold.  All the clothes these fellows wore was a strip of cloth about their middle.  When they were let off for dinner they skimmed off all they could get from the ship's slop barrel which stood on the wharf alongside, to help out their very scanty food.  The overseer stood by them all the time with a big whip and made them hurry up as fast as possible, talking Spanish pretty vigorously, and though we could not understand, we made up our minds that a good part of it was swearing.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The next morning the steamship Prometheus came in and tied up near us, and soon word was brought that she would take the New Orleans passengers on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>436</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Nothing special occurred during our passage till we were near the mouth of the Mississippi River, when, in the absence of a pilot boat or tug, our Captain thought he would try to get in alone, and as a consequence we were soon fast in the mud.  The Captain now made all the passengers go aft, and worked the engine hard but could not move her at all.  The tide was now low, and there was a prospect that we should have to wait full six hours to get away.  We worked on, however, and after a few hours a tug came to our assistance and pulled us out of the mud and towed us into the right channel, up which we steamed on our way to New Orleans, one-hundred-twenty miles away.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The country on both sides of us was an immense marsh--no hills in sight, no timber, nothing but the same level marsh or prairie.  When we were nearer the Crescent City some houses came in sight; then we passed General Jackson's battle-field, and in due time reached the city.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On board this ship I became acquainted with Dick Evans who lived in the same county that I used to in Wisconsin, near Mineral Point, so the three of us now concluded to travel together.</P>
107.sgm:<P>New Orleans seemed to be a very large city.  Near the levee a large government building was in course of construction for a Custom House.  It was all of stone, and the walls were up about two stories.  We put up at a private boarding house, and the first business was to try and sell our gold dust.  So we went to the mint and were told we would have to wait ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This was the most ingenious work I ever saw, and very wonderful and astonishing to a backwoodsman like myself, for I supposed that money was run in moulds like bullets.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As we could not wait we went to a bank and sold our dust, getting only sixteen dollars per ounce, the same price they paid in California.  We now took the cars and rode out to Lake Ponchantrain--most of the way over a trestle work.  We found a wharf and warehouse at the lake, and a steamer lay there all ready to go across to the other side.  The country all about looked low, with no hills in sight.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When we returned to the city we looked all about, and in the course of our travels came to a slave market.  Here there were all sorts of black folks for sale; big and little, old and young and all sorts.  They all seemed good-natured, and were clean, and seemed to think they were worth a good deal of money.  Looking at them a few minutes sent my mind back to St. Joseph, Missouri, where I saw a black sold at auction.  From my standpoint of education I did not approve of this way of trading in colored people.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We continued our stroll about the city, coming to a cemetery, where I looked into a newly dug grave to find it half full of water.  On one side were many brick vaults above ground.  The ground here is very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>438</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>For a long way along the levee the steamboats lay thick and close together, unloading cotton, hemp, sugar, hoop poles, bacon and other products, mostly the product of negro labor.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Here our friend Evans was taken sick, and as he got no better after a day or two, we called a doctor to examine him.  He pronounced it a mild case of yellow fever.  His skin was yellow in places, and he looked very badly.  The doctor advised us to go on up the river, saying it was very dangerous staying here with him.  Evans gave me most of his money and all of his gold specimens to take to his wife, and when he got well he would follow us.  We bade him good-bye, and with many wishes for his speedy recovery, we took passage on a steamer for St. Louis.  This steamer, the Atlantic, proved to be a real floating palace in all respects.  The table was supplied with everything the country afforded and polite and well-dressed darkies were numerous as table waiters.  This was the most pleasant trip I had ever taken, and I could not help comparing the luxuriance of my coming home to the hardships of the outward journey across the plains, and our starvation fare.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Our boat was rather large for the stage of water this time of year, and we proceeded rather slowly, but I cared little for speed as bed and board were extra good, and a first cabin passage in the company of friends, many of whom were going to the same part of Wisconsin as myself, was not a tedious affair by any means.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At night gambling was carried on very extensively, and money changed hands freely as the result of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>439</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We reached St. Louis in time, and here was the end of our boat's run.  The river had some ice floating on its surface, and this plainly told us that we were likely to meet more ice and colder weather as we went north.  We concluded to take the Illinois River boat from here to Peoria, and paid our passage and stepped on board.  We were no more than half way through this trip when the ice began to form on the surface of the water, and soon became so thick and strong that the boat finally came to a perfect standstill, frozen in solid.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We now engaged a farm wagon to take us to Peoria, from which place we took regular stages for Galena.  Our driver was inclined to be very merciful to his horses, so we were two days in reaching that town, but perhaps it was best, for the roads were icy and slippery, and the weather of the real winter sort.  From here we hired a team to take four of us to Plattville, and then an eighteen-mile walk brought me to Mineral Point, the place from which I started with my Winnebago pony in 1849.  I had now finished my circle and brought both ends of the long belt together.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I now went to a drug store and weighed Mr. Evans' specimens, wrapping each in a separate piece of paper, with the value marked on each, and took them to his wife, to whom I told the news about her husband.  In two week's time he came home sound and well.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I was quite disappointed in regard to the looks and business appearance of the country.  It looked thinly settled, people scarce, and business dull.  I could not get a day's work to do, and I could not go much farther on foot, for the snow was eight or ten inches deep, and I was still several hundred miles from my parents in Michigan.  So my journey farther east was delayed until spring.  The hunting season was over, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>After a few days in town I went out into the neighborhood where I used to live and stopped with Mr. E. A. Hall, who used to be a neighbor of Mr. Bennett, as he had invited me to stay with himself and wife, who were the only occupants of a good house, and all was pleasant.  But notwithstanding all the comfort in which I was placed, I grew lonesome, for the enforced idleness, on account of the stormy weather, was a new feature in my life, and grew terribly monotonous.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After some delay I concluded to write to my parents in Michigan and give them a long letter with something of a history of my travels, and to refresh my memory I got out my memorandum I had kept through all my journey.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As my letter was liable to be quite lengthy I bought a quantity of foolscap paper and begun.  I took my diary as my guide, and filled out the ideas suggested in it so they would understand them.  I soon ran through with my paper and bought more, and kept on writing.  The weather was cold and stormy, and I found it the best occupation I could have to prevent my being lonesome; so I worked away, day after day, for about a month, and I was really quite tired of this sort of work before I had all the facts recorded which I found noted down in my diary.  My notes began in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>441</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I now loaned Mr. Hall, with whom I lived, six hundred dollars to enable him to cross the plains to California and try to make his fortune.  To secure this I took a mortgage on his eighty-acre farm, and he set out to make the journey.  I had another eighty acres of land near here which I bought at government price before going to California, but I could not now sell it for what it cost me.  When I went away I had left my chest and contents with my friend Samuel Zollinger, and he had kept it safely, so I now made him my lawful agent.  I placed my narrative and some other papers in the chest and gave the key into his charge, while I went north, across the Wisconsin River, to visit my old hunting and trapping friend, Robert McCloud.  Here I made a very pleasant visit of perhaps a week, and the common prospects of the country were freely talked over.  It seemed to us as if the good times were still far off; every day was like Sunday so far as anything going on; no money in circulation, many places abandoned, and, like myself, many had gone to California to seek gold instead of lead.  (The mines at Mineral Point are mostly of lead, with some copper.)</P>
107.sgm:<P>Looking at matters in this light it did not need a great deal of McCloud's persuasion to induce me to go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I afterward learned that in time they received the bundle of paper and read it through and through, and circulated it around the neighborhood till it was badly worn, and laid it away for future perusal when their minds should incline that way.  But the farm house soon after took fire and burned, my labor going up in smoke.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When the news of this reached me I resolved to try to forget all the trials, troubles and hardships I had gone through, and which I had almost lived over again as I wrote them down, and I said to myself that I would not talk about them more than I could help, the sooner to have them vanish, and never write them down again, but a few years ago an accident befell me so that I could not work, and I back-slid from my determination when I was persuaded so earnestly by many friends to write the account which appeared a few years ago in the Santa Clara Valley now the Pacific Tree and Vine, edited by H. A. Brainard, at San Jose, California.  The diary was lost, and from memory alone the facts have been rehearsed, and it is but fair to tell the reader that the hardest and worst of it has never been told nor will it ever be.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>McCloud and I now took his skiff, and for two days floated down the Wisconsin River till we reached the Mississippi, boarded the first steamboat we could hail, and let our own little craft adrift.  In due time we reached St. Louis and boarded another steamer for New Orleans.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At a wood-yard, about dark, a lot of negroes, little and big, came on board to sell brooms.  The boat's clerk seemed to know negro character pretty well, so he got out his violin and played for them.  For a while the young colored gentry listened in silence, but pretty soon he struck a tune that suited them, and they began to dance in their own wild style.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In seven days from St. Louis we landed in New Orleans, and found the government steamer, Falcon, advertised to sail in two days.  We went together to one of the slave warehouses.  Outside and in all was neat and clean, and any day you could see men, women and children standing under the shed as a sign of what they had within, and the painted signs "For Sale" displayed conspicuously.  We were very civilly treated, and invited to examine the goods offered for sale.  There were those of all ages and all colors, for some were nearly white and some intensely black, with all the shades between.  All were to be sold, separately, or in families, or in groups as buyers might desire.  All were made to keep themselves clean and neatly dressed, and to behave well, with a smile to all the visitors whether they felt like smiling or not.  Some seemed really anxious to get a good master, and when a kind, pleasant looking man came along they would do their utmost to be agreeable to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I now went on board the steamer Falcon, in command of a government officer, to try to learn something about the family of Capt. Culverwell who perished alone in Death Valley.  He told me he had once belonged to the Navy and had his life insured, and as I was an important witness for his family I wanted to learn where they lived.  The Captain looked over a list of officers, but Culverwell's name was not there.  I then wrote a letter to Washington stating the facts of his death, and my own address in Sacramento, California.  I also stated that I would assist the widow if I could, but I never received an answer.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We soon started down the river, having on board about one hundred passengers, men going to work on the Panama Railroad.  At Chagres we found a small stern wheeled river steamer and took passage on it for Gorgona, as far as the steamer could well go up the river.  While going up we met a similar boat coming down, and being near a short bend they crashed together, breaking down our guards severly, but fortunately with no damage to our wheel.  A few miles above this a dark passing cloud gave us rain in streams, and we had to drift in near shore to wait for the storm to pass.  I never before saw water fall so fast, and yet in half an hour the sun was out and burning hot.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Before we reached Gorgona we got acquainted with a man named John Briggs from Wisconsin, and Lyman Ross from Rhode Island, and concluded to travel in company.  Our fare thus far was ten dollars, and two horses to Panama for which we paid twelve dollars <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>445</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We waited but little here before taking the steamer Southerner, bound for San Francisco.  Three days after we sailed away one of our passengers went overboard, a corpse, and three or four more died and were buried alongside before we reached Acapulco.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Here we took on water and coal and were soon at sea again.  McCloud soon had to take his place in the sick ward, and I attended him most of the time, but was not allowed to give him anything withouta permit from the doctor, and the long delays between the administrations of medicine made the sickness hard to endure.  The sick could see the dead sewed up in blankets with a bucket of coal for a weight; then resting on a plank with sailors on each side, the mate would read the brief services appropriate to a burial at sea, the plank was tilted, and the lifeless body slid down into the depths.  Such scenes were no benefit to the suffering, for each might think his turn was next, when a bright hope and prospect would be better for his recovery.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One forenoon the fire gong rang out sharply, and all was in confusion, supposing the ship to be on fire, but nothing could be seen but a dense fog except as a gentle wind lifted it a little and there, dead ahead, was a rocky island, against which it seemed we must dash to destruction, for there was no beach and very little chance for any one to be saved.  Ten minutes more in this direction and we were lost, but the officers quickly changed the course, and we passed the pile of rocks scarcely a rifle shot away.  Whose fault it was, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>About those days the air felt cooler, the fog less dense, and the foggy rain-bows we had seen so much when the sun tried to shine, were scarce, while a more northern wind created a coolness that made sick folks feel refreshed and hopeful.  It gave me a chance to cheer up my sick friend who was still in bed, and tell him it would continue to be cooler as we went.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On the Fourth of July the officers produced the ship's full supply of flags, and the sailors climbed high and low, fastening them to every rope till we had a very gay Independence day appearance.  In this gay dress we steamed into San Diego harbor to leave the mail for a few soldiers stationed there, and get their letters in return.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I could see no town in San Diego, but a beautiful harbor, and some poor looking mustard wigwams some way off seemed to contain the good people of that place.</P>
107.sgm:<P>A boat with a small crew pulled out and came along-side to get the mail and deliver theirs, and then we turned to sea again.  The country all around this beautiful little harbor looked mountainous and extremely barren, and no one wanted to go on shore.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About dark we had made sufficient offing and turned northward, plowing through large fields of kelp.  The next morning the forward watch announced land ahead, which could dimly be seen as the fog rose.  The officers rushed on deck and could see not far ahead a sandy beach, and a moment more showed that we were headed directly for it, and that it was not more than a quarter of a mile away.  Quickly the helmsman was given orders to steer almost west instead of the north course he had been following.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>447</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The sun came out bright and clear a little later, and I got McCloud out of his bed and gave him a seat at the ship's side where he could see the green grassy hills near the beach, and larger hills and mountains farther back.  We could see cattle feeding in the nearest pastures, and the whole scene was a pleasant one; and as we sat on the eastern side of the ship and snuffed the cool breeze which came from the north, we thought we were comparatively happy people, and hoped that, if no accident befell, we would soon be at the end of our voyage.</P>
107.sgm:<P>On the seventh day of July, 1851, we entered the Golden Gate, this being my second arrival in California.  On our trip from Panama seven or more had died and been buried at sea, but the remainder of us were quite safe and sound.  We found the heart of the city still smoking, for a fire had broken out on July fourth and burned extensively, and these broad, blackened ruins were the result.  Some said the work had been done by the Sidney "ducks" and their numerous helpers, who were really the rulers of the city.  The place now looked much worse than it did when I left in November before.  These Sidney "ducks" were English convicts from Australia, and other thieves and robbers joined them as agreeable companion, making a large class that seemed to glory in destruction and a chance for booty.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I walked around over the hills where I could see the burned district and the destruction of so much valuable property, and when I thought the civil law was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>448</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>About four o'clock one afternoon we went aboard the Sacramento steamer, Antelope, paying our passage with half an ounce apiece, and were soon on our way past the islands and up the bay.  When we were beyond Benicia, where the river banks were close, McCloud sat watching the shore, and remarked that the boat ran like a greyhound, and it seemed to him, beat the old ocean steamer pretty bad.</P>
107.sgm:<P>He seemed to be nearly well again, and complimented me as the best doctor he ever saw.  Since he had been sick I had paid him all the attention I could, and he gave me all the praise I deserved, now that he was getting to feel himself again.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At Sacramento we changed to another boat bound for Marysville, which place we reached without special incident.  Here we invested in a four-ounce donkey, that is, we paid four ounces of gold for him, just an ounce apiece for four of us--W. L. Manley, Robert McCloud, Lyman Ross and John Briggs.  We piled our blankets in a pack upon the gentle, four-ounce donkey, and added a little tea and coffee, dried beef and bread, then started for the Yuba River, ourselves on foot.  We crossed the river at Park's Bar, then went up the ridge by way of Nigger Tent, came down to the river again at Goodyear Bar, then up the stream to Downieville.  This town was named after John Downie, a worthless drunkard.  I remember that he once reformed, but again back-slid and died a drunkard's death.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We found this a lively mining town about sixty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>449</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We went up the North Fork about a mile or two above town and camped on Wisconsin Flat to begin our mining operations.  Our luck was poor at first, and all except myself were out of money, and more or less in debt to me.  We made expenses, however, and a little more, and as soon as Mr. Ross got his small debt paid he said he was discouraged mining, and with blankets on his shoulders started up the trail towards Galloway's ranch, on the summit south of town.  Mr. Ross said the work was too hard for him, for he was not strong enough to handle pick and shovel, and he believed he could go down to Sacramento and make more by his wits than he could here.  I went with him to town and saw him start off with a fair load on his back, and watched him as he toiled up the steep mountain trail for about two miles, when he went out of sight.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The rest of us kept on mining.  Our luck was not very good, but we persevered, for there was nothing to be gained by fainting by the way.  I went into an old abandoned shaft about ten feet deep and found the bottom filled with a big quartz boulder, and as I had been a lead miner in Wisconsin, I began drifting, and soon found bed rock, when I picked up a piece of pure gold that weighed four ounces.  This was what I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>450</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We kept on drifting for some time, sometimes making good wages, and on the whole so satisfactory that we concluded to stay.  We now located some claims back in the flat where the ground would be thirty feet deep, and would have to be drifted.  These we managed to hold until winter, and in the meantime we worked along the river and could make something all the time.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We put in a flume between two falls on the Middle Fork, but made only wages, and I got my arm nearly broken, and had to work with one hand for nearly a month.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One afternoon I went crevicing up the river, and found a crevice at the water's edge about half an inch wide, and the next day we worked it out getting forty ounces, and many of the pieces were about an inch long and as large around as a pipe-stem.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Winter was now near by, and we set to work to build a cabin and lay in a stock of grub, which cost quite a good deal, for the self-raising flour which we bought was worth twenty cents a pound, and all kinds of hog meat fifty cents, with other supplies in proportion.  Our new claims now paid very well.  Snow came down to the depth of about four feet around our cabin, but as our work was under ground, we had a comfortable place all winter.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the spring McCloud and I went to Sacramento and sold our chunks of gold (it was all very coarse) to Page, Bacon &amp; Co. who were themselves surprised at the coarseness of the whole lot.  When our savings were weighed up we found we had made half an ounce a day, clear of all expenses, for the entire year.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>We now took a little run down to San Francisco, also to Santa Clara where we staid a night or two with Mr. McCloud's friend, Mr. Otterson, and then went back to our claims again.  In taking care of our money we had to be our own bankers, and the usual way was to put the slugs we received for pay into a gallon pickle jar, and bury this in some place known only to our particular selves, and these vaults we considered perfectly safe.  The slugs were fifty dollar pieces, coined for convenience, and were eight-sided, heavy pieces.  In the western counties the people called them "Adobies," but among the miners they were universally known as "Slugs."</P>
107.sgm:<P>The winter proved a little lonesome, the miners mostly staid at home and worked.  During the year we had been here I had not seen a respectable woman in this mining country.  There were few females here, and they were said to be of very doubtful character.  As a general thing people were very patient with their wickedness, but not always.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Twice only in the history of California were women made the victims of mob violence, once at Los Angeles and once at Downieville.  The affair at the last-named place occurred in 1851, and the victim was a pretty little Spanish woman named Juanita.  She and her husband, like many another couple at that time, kept a monte game for the delectation of the miners who had more money than sense, but beyond this fact absolutely nothing was said against her character.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There was an English miner named Cannon living in town, who was very popular among a large number of gamblers and others.  He got drunk one night and about midnight went to the house occupied by the Spanish woman and her husband and kicked the door down.  Early the following morning he told his comrades that he was going to apologize to the woman for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>452</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>She was given a mock trial, but the facts of the case were not brought out, as the men who were with Cannon were too drunk to remember what had happened the previous night.  It was a foregone conclusion that the poor woman was to be hanged, and the leaders of the mob would brook no interference.  A physician examined Juanita and announced to the mob that she was in a condition that demanded the highest sympathy of every man, but he was forced to flee from town to save his life.  A prominent citizen made an appeal for mercy, but he was driven down the main street and across the river by a mob with drawn revolvers, and with threats of instant death.  The well-known John B. Weller was in town at the time, and was asked to reason with the mob, but refused to do so.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The execution was promptly carried out.  A plank was put across the supports of the bridge over the Yuba, and a rope fastened to a beam overhead.  Juanita went calmly to her death  She wore a Panama hat, and after mounting the platform she removed it, tossed it to a friend in the crowd, whose nickname was "Oregon," with the remark, "Adios amigo."  The she adjusted the noose to her own neck, raising her long, loose tresses carefully in order to fix the rope firmly in its place, and then, with a smile and wave of her hand to the bloodthirsty crowd present, she stepped calmly from the plank into eternity.  Singular enough, her body rests side by side, in the cemetery on the hill, with that of the man whose life she had taken.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>On Sundays Downieville was full of men, none very old, and none very young, but almost every one of middle age.  Nearly every man was coarsely dressed, with beard unshaved and many with long hair, but on any occasion of excitement it was not at all strange to see the coarsest, roughest looking one of all the party mount a stump and deliver as eloquent an address as one could wish to hear.  On Sunday it was not at all unusual for some preacher to address the moving crowd, while a few feet behind him would be a saloon in full blast, and drinking, gambling, swearing and vulgar language could be plainly seen and heard at the same time, and this class of people seemed to respect the Sunday preacher very little.  The big saloon was owned by John Craycroft, formerly a mate on a Mississippi River steamboat, who gained most of his money by marrying a Spanish woman and making her a silent partner.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One enterprising man who was anxious to make money easily, took a notion to try his luck in trade, so, as rats and mice were troublesome in shops and stores, he went down to the valley and brought up a cargo of cats which he disposed of at prices varying from fifty to one hundred dollars each, according to the buyer's fancy.</P>
107.sgm:<P>During the summer Kelley the fiddler came up in the mines to make a raise, and Craycroft made him a pulpit about ten feet above the floor in his saloon, having him to play nights and Sundays at twenty dollars per day.  He was a big uneducated Irishman, who could neither read nor write, but he played and sang and talked the rich Irish brogue, all of which brought many customers to the bar.  In the saloon could be seen all sorts of people dealing different games, and some were said to be preachers.  Kelley staid here as long as he could live on his salary, and left town much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>454</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>One of the grocers kept out a sign, "CHEAP JOHN, THE PACKER," and kept a mule to deliver goods, which no other merchant did, and in this way gained many friends, and many now may praise the enterprise of Cheap John, the Packer.  Prices were pretty high in those days.  Sharpening picks cost fifty cents, a drink of whiskey one dollar, and all kinds of pork, fifty cents per pound.  You could get meals at the McNutty house for one dollar.  The faro and monte banks absorbed so much of the small change that on one occasion I had to pay five dollars for a two dollar pair of pants in order to get a fifty dollar slug changed.</P>
107.sgm:<P>No white shirts were worn by honest men, and if any man appeared in such a garment he was at once set down as a gambler, and with very little chance of a mistake.  One Langdon had the only express office, and brought letters and packages from Sacramento.  I paid one dollar simply to get my name on his letter list, and when a letter came I had to pay one dollar for bringing it up, as there was no Post Office at Downieville.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Newspapers were eagerly sought for, such was the hunger for reading.  The Western folks bought the St. Louis papers, while Eastern people found the New York Tribune a favorite.  One dollar each for such papers was the regular price.  It may seem strange, but aside from the news we got from an occasional newspaper, I did not hear a word from the East during the two years I remained on Yuba river.  Our evenings were spent in playing cards for amusement, for no reading could be got.  The snow between Marysville and Downieville was deep and impassable in winter, but we could work our drifting claims very comfortably, having laid in a stock of provisions early in the season, before snowfall.  The nights seemed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>455</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>After the snow went off three German sailors came up and took a river claim a short distance above us on a north fork of the north fork of the stream, where one side of the can&tilde;on was perpendicular and the other sloped back only slightly.  Here they put logs across the river, laid stringers on these, and covered the bottom with fir boughs.  Then they put stakes at the sides and rigged a canvas flume over their bridge through which they turned the whole current of the river, leaving a nearly dry bed beneath.  This we called pretty good engineering and management on the part of the sailor boys, for no lumber was to be had, and they had made themselves masters of the situation with the material on hand.</P>
107.sgm:<P>They went to work under their log aqueduct, and found the claim very rich in coarse gold.  They went to town every Saturday night with good big bags of dust, and as they were open-hearted fellows, believing that a sailor always has the best of luck, they played cards freely, always betting on the Jack and Queen, and spent their money more easily than they earned it.  They were quite partial to the ladies, and patronizing the bar and card tables as liberally as they did, usually returned to camp on Monday or Tuesday with a mule load of grub and whiskey as all the visible proceeds of a week's successful mining; but when Saturday night came around again we were pretty sure to see the jolly sailors going past with heavy bags of gold.  They left one nearly pure piece of gold at Langdon's Express <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>456</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>They worked their claim with good success until the snow water came down and forced them out.  I went one day to see them and they took a pan of dirt from behind a big rock and washed it out, getting as much as two teacupfuls of nuggets, worth perhaps a thousand dollars.  When they went away they said they would go to Germany to see their poor relatlves and friends, and one of them really went home, but the other two had spent all their money before they were ready to leave San Francisco.  These men were, without doubt, the inventors of the canvas flume which was afterward used so successfully in various places.</P>
107.sgm:<P>While I was still here the now famous Downieville Butte quartz mine was discovered, but there was no way then of working quartz successfully, and just at that time very little was done with it, but afterward, when it was learned how to work it, and the proper machinery introduced, it yielded large sums of bullion.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The miners had a queer way of calling every man by some nickname or other instead of his true name, and no one seemed offended at it, but answered to his new name as readily as to any.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It was nearly fall when we found we had worked our claims out, and there were no new ones we could locate here, so we concluded to go prospecting for a new locality.  I bought a donkey in town of a Mr. Hawley, a merchant, for which I paid sixty dollars, and gave the little fellow his old master's name.  We now had two animals, and we packed on them our worldly goods, and started south up the mountain trail by way of the city of six, where some half dozen men had located claims, but the ground was dry and deep, so we went on.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>We still went south, down toward the middle Yuba Qiver, and when about half way down the mountain side came to a sort of level bench where some miners were at work, but hardly any water could be had.  They called this Minnesota.  We stayed here a day or two, but as there seemed to be no possible further development of water, concluded to go on further.  Across the river we could see a little flat, very similar to the one we were on, and a little prospecting seemed to have been done on the side of the mountain.  We had a terribly steep can&tilde;on to cross, and a river also, with no trail to follow, but our donkeys were as good climbers as any of us, so we started down the mountain in the morning, and arrived at the river about noon.  Here we rested an hour or two and then began climbing the brushy mountain side.  The hill was very steep, and the sun beat down on us with all his heat, so that with our hard labor and the absence of any wind we found it a pretty hot place.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It was pretty risky traveling in some places, and we had to help the donkeys to keep them from rolling down the hill, pack and all.  It took us four hours to make a mile and a half or two miles in that dense brush, and we were nearly choked when we reached the little flat.  Here we found some water, but no one lived here.  From here we could see a large flat across a deep can&tilde;on to the west, and made up our minds to try to go to it.  We went around the head of the can&tilde;on, and worked through the brush and fallen timber, reaching our objective point just as night was coming on.  This flat, like the one we had left, was quite level, and contained, perhaps, nearly one hundred acres.  Here we found two men at work with a "long tom"--a Mr. Fernay and a Mr. Bloat.  They had brought the water of a small spring to their claim and were making five or six dollars per day.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>458</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>We then began our search for water and found a spring about three quarters of a mile away, to which we laid claim, and with a triangle level began to survey out a route for our ditch.  The survey was satisfactory, and we found we could bring the water out high on the flat, so we set to work digging at it, and turned the water in.  The ground was so very dry that all the water soaked up within two hundred yards of the spring.</P>
107.sgm:<P>By this time we were out of grub, and some one must go for a new supply, and as we knew the trail to Downieville was terribly rough, I was chosen as the one to try to find Nevada City, which we thought would be nearer and more easily reached.  So I started south with the donkeys, up the mountain toward the ridge which lies between the middle and south Yuba Rivers, and when I got well on the ridge I found a trail used some by wagons, which I followed till I came to a place where the ridge was only wide enough for a wagon, and at the west end a faint trail turned off south into the rolling hilis.  I thought this went about the course I wanted to go, so I followed it, and after two or three miles came to the south Yuba river.  This seemed to be an Indian trail, no other signs on it.  I climbed the mountain here, and when I reached the top I found a large tent made of blue drilling, and here I found I was four or five miles from Nevada City with a good trail to follow.  The rolling hills I then passed through are now called North Bloomfield, and at one time were known as "Humbug."</P>
107.sgm:<P>I started along the trail and soon reached the city where I drove my donkeys up to a store which had out the sign "Davis &amp; Co.."  I entered and inquiring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>459</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Next day I went on up the divide and found a house on the trail leading farther east, where two men lived, but they seemed to be doing nothing.  There were no mines and miners near there, and there seemed to be very little travel on the trail.  The fellows looked rough, and I suspected they might be bad characters.  The stream they lived near was afterward called Bloody Run, and there were stories current that blood had been shed there.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Here was a section of comparatively level land, for the mountain divide, and a fine spring of good cold water, all surrounded by several hundred acres of the most magnificent sugar pines California ever raised, very large, straight as a candle, and one hundred feet or more to the lowest limbs.  This place was afterward called Snow Tent, and S. W. Churchill built a sawmill at the spring, and had all this fine timber at the mercy of his ax and saw, without anyone to dispute his right.  He furnished lumber to the miners at fifty dollars or more per thousand feet.  Bloody Run no doubt well deserves its name, for there was much talk of killing done there.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>I, however, went up and talked to the men and told them I wished to hire a cross cut saw for a few days to get out stuff for a cabin, and agreed to pay two dollars a day for the use of it till it came back.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We cut down a large sugar pine, cut off four six feet cuts, one twelve feet, and one sixteen feet cut, and from these we split out a lot of boards which we used to make a V-shaped flume which we placed in our ditch, and thus got the water through.  We split the longer cuts into two inch plank for sluice boxes, and made a small reservoir, so that we succeeded in working the ground.  We paid wages to the two men who worked, and two other men who were with us went and built a cabin.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I now went and got another load of provisions, and as the snow could be seen on the high mountains to the east, I thought the deer must be crowded down to our country, so I went out hunting and killed a big fat buck, and the next day three more, so fresh meat was plenty.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About this time a man came down the mountain with his oxen and wagon, wife and three or four children, the eldest a young lady of fifteen years.  The man's name was H. M. Moore.  We had posted notices, according to custom, to make mining laws, and had quite a discussion about a name for the place.  Some of the fellows wanted to name it after the young lady, "Minda's Flat," but we finally chose "Moore's Flat" instead, which I believe is the name it still goes by.  Our laws were soon completed, and a recorder chosen to record claims.  We gave Mr. Moore the honor of having a prospecting town named after him because he was the first man to be on hand with a wife.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I became satisfied after a little that this place would be a very snowy place, and that from all appearances <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>461</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The first town I passed through was a newly discovered mining town called French Corral.  Here I found an old Wisconsin friend Wm. Sublet, the foster father of the accomplishen wife of Mayor S. W. Boring of San Jose.  From here I went to Marysville.  The storm had been raging high in the mountains for some days, and the Yuba river rising fast, overflowing its banks as I walked into town, and the next day the merchants were very busy piling their goods above high water mark.  I went to a hotel and called for a bed. "Yes," says the landlord "Is your name John or Peter?"  I told him William, which he set down in his book and we went up stairs to the best room which was fitted up with berths three tiers high on each side, and only one or two empty ones.  He looked around for covers, but none could be found unoccupied, but one fellow who was sound asleep and snoring awfully, so he took the blanket off from him saying:  "He wont know a thing about it till morning, be jabers, so don't say a word."</P>
107.sgm:<P>Next morning the river was booming, its surface covered with all sorts of mining outfit such as flume timber, rockers, various qualities of lumber, pieces of trees as well as whole ones, water wheels and other traps.  The river between Downieville and here must have been swept clean of all material that would float, including "long Toms."  The water continued to rise till it covered the Plaza, and in two days a steamer came up and sailed across the public square.  This looked like a wet season to me, and when the boat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>462</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Suddenly a miner, who had lately arrived from the mountains, raised his room window in the second story of a house, put out one leg and then his body, as far as he could, and having nothing on but his night clothes, shouted to the noisy crowd below:--"Say, can't you d--d farmers plow now?"  At this he dodged back quickly into his window as if he expected something might be thrown at him.  The rain continued, and the water rose gradually till it began to run slowly through the streets, and all the business stopped except gambling and drinking whisky, which were freely carried on in the saloons day and night.</P>
107.sgm:<P>While here in Sacramento I was sufficiently prompted by curiosity to go around to the place on J street where the Legislature was in session.  I stood sometime outside the enclosure listening to the members who were in earnest debate over a question concerning the size of mining claims.  They wanted them uniform in size all over the state, but there was some opposition, and the debate on this occasion was between the members from the mining counties on one side and the "cow" counties on the other.  The miners took the ground that the claims were of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>463</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>While this wrangle was going on.  Capt. Hunt, of San Bernardino (our guide from Salt Lake in 1849, came along and stopped where I stood, shaking me heartily by the hand, inquiring where I was from, and when I told him I was from the mines he said he thought the cow county fellows were trying to make the miners some trouble.  I told him the present mining regulations suited us very well, and after he had talked with me a little he went inside and whispered to some of the silent members that the miners wanted no change, for he had just consulted a miner to that effect.  When occasion offered he called for a vote which resulted in the defeat of the cow counties and a postponement of the measure indefinitely.</P>
107.sgm:<P>My next move was to try to find a dryer place so I took a boat for Benicia, then for Stockton, where I found a sea of mud, so that a man needed stilts or a boat to cross the street.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Here in a livery stable I found my old Platte River boss, Chas. Dallas, for whom I drove in 1849, but he did not seem to know me and took no notice of me, but talked "horse" and horse-racing to the bystanders very loudly.  I suppose that Dallas had made money and did not care for a poor ox driver, and on my part I did not care very much for his friendship, so I walked away and left him without a word.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Every way I looked was a sea of black, sticky mud; dogs mired in the streets and died, and teams and animals had forsaken the usual route of travel.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>464</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I climbed Russian Hill and to take a look over the city.  It seemed poorly built, but the portion that had been burned in July 1852, had been built up again.  The business part was near the beach and north of Market street.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I had never lived in a town and did not know its ways, so I strolled around alone, for without acquaintance I did not know where to go nor what to look for.  I therefore thought I would see some other part of the country.  I found that a schooner was about to sail for San Pedro, near Los Angeles.  I took hold of a rope to help myself on board, when it gave way and I found myself floundering in the water.  They helped me out and the Captain gave me a dry suit to put on, I was profoundly grateful for the favor, and found him a generous man.</P>
107.sgm:<P>We sailed away and stopped at Monterey for 24 hours which gave me a good chance for a good look at the old Capitol houses, which were of adobe, and to find that this city was also liberally supplied with gambling, card and billiard tables.  The majority of the people were Spanish and fond of gaming, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>465</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Some houses were of stone, but more of adobe, and there seemed to be no fertile country round, and the hills about had small pines on them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some of the sailors went out and gathered a large bag of mussels and clams, from which they made a liberal allowance of chowder for the table.  After seven or eight days we arrived in San Pedro, and found the town to consist of one long adobe house.  The beach was low and sandy, and we were wet somewhat in wading through a light surf to get on shore.  We had on board a Mr. Baylis, who we afterward learned came down with Capt. Lackey on a big speculation which was to capture all the wild goats they could on Catalina Island, and take them to San Francisco for slaughtering.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The goats were easily captured and taken on board the schooner, and thence to shore but many were drowned in the transit, and when driven to San Francisco the dead were scattered all along the route.  Although wild they seemed to lack the vitality that tame goats possess.  The speculation proved a disappointment to the projectors.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At the adobe house, kept by a Spainard we had breakfast, then shouldered our packs for the march of ten leagues to Los Angeles for there was no chance to ride.  It was night before we reached the City of Angels, and here I staid a day to take a look at the first city I saw in California in March 1850.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I inquired for my mining companion, W. M. Stockton who worked with Bennett and myself near Georgetown in 1850, and found he lived near the old mission of San Gabriel nine miles away, whither I walked and found him and family well and glad to see me.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>466</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Mr. Stockton fenced his orchard by setting posts and tying sycamore poles to them to keep the stock away, built an adobe house on the claim and called the property his.  I went to work for him at once, pruning the trees, which improved their appearance, and then turned on a little stream of water which ran through the place, and on down to the mission.  With this treatment the trees did well without cultivation.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I bought one half the stock consisting of some Spanish cows, one yoke of oxen and some horses, worked enough to pay my board, watched the stock and still had plenty of time to ride around over the adjoining country.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When the pears were ripe the Spanish men, women and children eagerly bought them at 25 cents per dozen and some Sundays the receipts for fruit sold would be as high as $100.  That taken to town would bring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>467</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Near by was a small artificial lake made by a dam of cobble stones, laid in cement across a ravine, which was built perhaps 50 years before, and yet the tracks of a child who had walked across before the cement was dry, were plainly seen.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Stockton and I visited Mr. Roland, an old settler who lived south of San Gabriel river, and staid all night with him, finding him very sociable and hospitable.  All his work was done by Indians who lived near by, and had been there as long as he.  He had a small vineyard, and raised corn, squashes, melons and all that are necessary for his table, having also a small mill near by for grinding corn and wheat without bolting.  The Indians made his wine by tramping the grapes with their feet in a rawhide vat hung between four poles set in the ground.  The workmen were paid off every Saturday night, and during Sunday he would generally sell them wine enough to get about all the money back again.  This had been his practice for many years, and no doubt suited Mr. Roland as well as the red men.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Roland was an old Rocky Mountain trapper who came to California long before gold was discovered, and during the evening the talk naturally ran to the subject of early days.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mr. Roland related that while his party were in camp in the upper Colorado they were visited by a small band of Indians who professed friendship and seated themselves around the fire.  Suddenly they made an attack and each trapper had an Indian to contend with, except Mr. Roland who was left to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>468</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>No white man could alone have traversed that desert waste and found food enough to last him half the journey.</P>
107.sgm:<P>He gradually learned to speak Spanish, and was granted the piece of land he applied for, and where he then lived; married a Spanish girl, with whom he had a happy home and raised a large family, and grew rich, for they were both industrious and economical.  The first wife died, and he was persuaded to marry a Texas widow, and now had to buy the first carriage he ever owned, and furnish a fine turn-out and driver for the lady, who wore much jewelry and fine clothes, and spent money freely.  Roland was not a society man, his thoughts and habits were different from his wife, and he staid at home, better contented there.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There were many other pioneers in the neighborhood, Dan Sexton, Col. Williams, of Chino ranch, Workman, B. D. Wilson, Abel Stearns, Temple, Wolfskill and many others, Scott and Granger were lawers.  Granger was the same man who read the preamble and resolutions that were to govern our big train as we were about to start from Utah Lake.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Scott was quite a noted member of the bar, and when Gen. Winfield Scott ran for President, some wide awake politicians caused the uneducated Spaniards to vote for their favorite lawyer instead of the redoubtable general, and they did this with a good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>469</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Mr. Stockton related that when he left his family here to go to the mines he rented one half a house of Michael Blanco who had a Spanish wife and children, and these and his own were of course constant playmates.  When he returned in the fall he found his children had learned to speak Spanish and nearly forgotten English, so that he had to coax them a great deal to get them to talk to him at all, and he could not understand a word they said.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I now tried to learn the language myself.  I had money to loan, and the borrowers were Spanish who gave good security and paid from 5 to 25 per cent interest per month, on short time.  Mrs. Stockton assisted me very much as an interpreter.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I bought young steers for $8. each and gradually added to my herd.  I got along well until next spring when the beef eating population began to steal my fat cattle, and seemed determined I should get no richer.  The country was over-stocked with desperate and lawless renegades in Los Angeles and from one to four dead men was about the number picked up in the streets each morning.  They were of low class, and there was no investigation, simply a burial at public expense.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The permanent Spanish population seemed honest and benevolent, but there were many bad ones from Chili, Sonora, Mexico, Texas, Utah and Europe, who seemed always on an errand of mischief a murder, thieving or robbery.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Three or four suspicious looking men came on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>470</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>To carry out the sentence they procured a cart, put a box on it for a seat, and with a rope around his neck and seated on the box, the condemned man was draged off by hand to an oak tree not far away, whither he was followed by all the men, women and children of the place, who where nearly all natives.  While preparations were being made under the tree some one called out that men were riding rapidly from the direction of Los Angeles, and from the dust they raised seemed to be more than usually in haste.  So it was proposed to wait till they came up.  It was soon known that an Indian had been sent to Los Angeles to give news to the man's friends there, and they had come with all the speed of their horses to try to save his life.  They talked and inquired around a little and then proposed the question whether to hang him or to turn him over to the lawful authorities for regular trial.  This was put to a vote and it was decided to spare him now.  So the rope was taken off his neck, and he was turned over to Mr. Mallard the Mission Justice of the Peace, much to the relief of the fellow who saw death staring him in the face.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The Santa Anita ranch, now owned by E. J.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>471</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I became well acquainted with many of these old California natives, and found them honest in their dealings, good to the needy and in all my travels never found more willing hands to bestow upon relatives, friends or strangers ready relief than I saw among these simple natives.  Their kindness to our party when we came starving on the desert in 1850, can never be praised enough, and as long as I shall live my best wishes shall go with them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I was one day riding with Vincent Duarte down toward Anaheim when he suddenly dismounted to kill a large tarantula by pelting him with stones.  It was the first one I had seen, and seemed an over-grown spider.  I asked him if the thing was harmful, and he replied with considerable warmth, "Mucho malo por Christianos" and I wondered if the insect knew saints from sinners.</P>
107.sgm:<P>This spring we concluded to go to the Mormon settlement at San Bernardino and secure some American bulls to improve our stock, and starting late one day I rode as far as the Azuza Rancho where I staid all night with Mr. Dalton, reaching the holy city, a branch of Brigham Young's harem next day.  Here I found a town of log houses in a circle, enclosing a plaza.  There was a passage between the houses.  I stopped at the principal hotel kept by a vigorous and enthusiastic Mormon woman, who delighted to preach the doctrine.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Walking around on the outside of the fortifications I came across Capt. Hunt, the man who was hired in the fall of 1849 to bring the big train from Salt Lake to San Bernardino.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>I told him who I was, and what I wanted, and he seemed to know me, inviting me in the most friendly and social manner to take supper with him, which I did.  He sat at the head of the table and introduced me to his three wives.  The furnishing of the house was cheap and common, but the table was fairly provided for.  He said he would help me to find the animals I wanted, and in the morning showed me two which he had, that were young and suitable, and a larger one which he said I could have if I could drive him.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I soon found out that I had better move or sell my cattle, for with all my watching I could do they gradually disappeared, and hungry thieves who could live on beef alone, visited my little band of cattle too often and took what they wanted, and I could not detect them.  I soon sold to four buyers from the north, L. D. Stevens, David Grant, Sam Craig and Mr. Wilson, and hired out with my two horses to help them drive the band north, at a salary of $100 per month.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Disposing most of my money with Palmer, Cook &amp; Co., I went to see my mine at Moore's Flat.  There were two boats leaving at about the same time, one for Stockton, and one for Sacramento, the latter of which I took, and Rogers the other.  Both landed at Benecia, and when we swung away from that wharf Rogers and I saluted each other with raised and swinging hats, shouted a good bye, and I have never seen him since.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At Moore's Flat I found my mine well and profitably worked by Mr. Tyler and as his lease was not out I returned to San Jose, as I had learned from Rogers that Mr. A. Bennett was at Watsonville, and Mr. Arcane at Santa Cruz, and I desired to visit them.  I rode back across the country and found Mr. Bennett and family at the point where the Salinas river enters Monterey Bay.  They were all well, and were glad to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>473</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Bennett had a nice Whitehall boat and we had a genuine happy time hunting, fishing and gathering clams, and also in social visits amoung the neighbors and old acquaintances, among them one Jacob Rhodehouse of Wisconsin.</P>
107.sgm:<P>While here I rode my horse around to Monterey and to Carmel Mission, where I staid two or three days with Mr. Gourley, a brother of Mrs. William M. Stockton, who was here engaged in raising potatoes.  I walked along the beach near some rocky islands near the shore, and on these rocks were more sea lions and seals than I supposed the whole ocean contained--the most wonderful show of sea life on the California coast.  Returning I staid all night at the crossing of the Salinas with a colored family who gave me good accommodations for self and horse.  I heard afterward that this family was attacked by robbers and all but one murdered.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bennett's father D. J. Dilley lived near here also, and I had not seen him since the time in Wisconsin, when he hauled my canoe over to the river in 1849.  One day while fishing on the beach we found the body of a man, which we carried above the tide and buried in the sand.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I gave one of my horses to Geo. Bennett, and went over to Santa Cruz, where I found Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Arcane and son Charles in a comfortable home, well situated, and overjoyed to see me.</P>
107.sgm:<P>He knew everyone in town, and as we went about he never missed to introduce me to every one we met, as the man who helped himself and family out of Death Valley, and saved their lives.  Arcane was a very poite Frenchman and knew how to manage such things <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>474</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Upon the hill I met Judge Watson, the father of Watsonville, and a Mr. Graham, an old settler and land owner, and on this occasion he pulled a sheet of ancient, smoky looking paper from beneath his arm, pointed to a dozen or so of written lines in Spanish and then with a flourish of the precious document in Watson's face dared him to beat that, or get him off his land.  I must say that never in my life was I better entertained than here.</P>
107.sgm:<P>From Santa Cruz I crossed the mountain on a lonely and romantic trail to San Jose again, finding very few houses on the road.  Here I went to work for R. G. Moody building a gristmill on the banks of the Coyote Creek, to be run by water from artesian wells.  When the mill was done I went for my horse, and on my return I ran very unexpectedly upon Davenport Helms, to whom I had sold my little black mule in 1850.  Our talk was short but he told me he had killed a man in Georgetown, and the sheriff was looking for him.  He was now venturing to town for tobacco, and would hurry back to the hills again where he was herding cattle.</P>
107.sgm:<P>He said he kept them off at one time by getting in a piece of chaparral and presenting his gun to them when they came near, they dare not advance on him.  Then he laughed and said--"And all the time my gun was empty, for I did not have a d--d thing to put into it."  "I tell you they don't catch old Davenport.  Now don't you tell on me.  Good-bye."  I saw him no more after that.</P>
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107.sgm:<P>The town of San Jose was now more of a town than it was a few years before.  The "Forty Thieves," and others, commenced building a city hall of brick on the top of old adobe walls, and this was the principal improvement, except the Moody mill near the Sutter house, one street north of Julian.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After finishing work on the mill I drew my money from the bank in San Francisco and started for the mines on horseback.  Near French Camp, on the east side of the San Joaquin Valley, many cattle were feeding on the plains, and among them, much to my surprise I found "Old Crump," the ox that brought Bennett's and Arcane's children safe through from Death Valley in February, 1850.  He was now fat and sleek and as kind and gentle as when so poor upon the terrible journey.  I got off my horse and went up to him, and patted my old friend.  I was glad to find him so contented and happy, and I doubt not that he too was glad.  I met a man near by and asked him about the ox, and he said that the owner would not sell him nor allow him to be worked, for he knew of the faithful part he performed in the world, and respected him for it.</P>
107.sgm:<P>At Sacramento I deposited my money with Page, Bacon &amp; Co., a branch of the St. Louis firm of the same name, considered the safest bank in the United States.  Their bills were taken in payment of Goverment land.  Some rascals had some counterfeit bills on their bank, and traded them off for gold with the Missourians who were going home, and the poor fellows found themselves poor on arrival.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Going to my mine, where I left only a cabin or two, I found quite a village with two hotels and a post office.</P>
107.sgm:<P>News soon came that the banks had closed their door, and Page and Bacon also, so I concluded that I was broke.  The "Pikers" said Page and Bacon could not, nor would not fail, but news was against them.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>476</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>473</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>I had about $700 left besides paying for the goods, but I felt a very little troubled as to my prospect for success, for it was a new business to me.  Mr. Booth in a business way was a true father to me, and the much needed points in trade which he gave me were stored away for the use I knew I would make of them.  Of all those whom I bear in grateful remembrance none stand higher than this worthy man.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I went first direct to Nevada City to take out a license that I might best protect myself against oppositions and from there I had a walk of 18 miles over a rough mountain trail to my selected place of business.  Climbing the great hill of the S. Yuba river I often tired and sat down to rest, and I used this time to study my bill of goods, and add the freight and profit to the cost, so as to be well posted, and able to answer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>477</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>474</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>When I reached Moore's Flat I found that the boys had rented a store for me, and their welcome was very hearty when they found how lucky I had been in securing my money and starting out as their "grub supplier."</P>
107.sgm:<P>Four of us now located some mining claims, and began a tunnel both to drain the ground, and to work through the bed-rock.  This we named The Paradise, and we expected that three or four months would elapse before we made it pay, but there was in truth two years of solid rock-work before we got under the ground, but it paid well in the end.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The largest nugget of gold ever found before this time was a quartz boulder from the Buckeye sluice, about 8 by 10 inches in size, and when cleaned up at tne San Francisco mint the value was about $10,000.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Two of my partners in the work, L. J. Hanchett, and Jas. Clark ran out of funds at the end of the first year, and I took as much of the expense as I could upon my own shoulders.</P>
107.sgm:<P>About this time learning by a letter from her father that Mrs. Bennett was lying at the point of death at Mr. L. C. Bostic's in San Jose, I left H. Hanchett in charge of my business, and in four days I stood beside the bedside of my friend, endeared through the trials when death by thirst, starvation and the desert sands, stared us in the face with all its ghastliness.</P>
107.sgm:<P>She reached out her arms and drew me down to her, and embraced me and said in a faint whisper--"God bless you:--you saved us all till now, and I hope you will always be happy and live long."  She would have said more, but her voice was so weak she could not be heard.  She was very low with consumption, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>478</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>This presence and the circumstances brought back the trying Death Valley struggles, when this woman and her companions, and the poor children, so nearly starved they could not stand alone, were only prevented from sitting down to die in sheer despair by the encouraging words of Rogers and myself who had passed over the road, and used every way to sustain their courage.</P>
107.sgm:<P>She died the following day; with Mr. Bennett, I followed her remains to Oak Hill cemetery, where she was buried near the foot of the hill, and a board marked in large letters, "S. B." (Sarah Bennett) placed to mark the mound.  The grave cannot now be found, and no records being then kept it is probably lost.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I went home with Mr. Bennett to his home near Watsonville, and spent several days, meeting several of our old Death Valley party, and Mr. D. J. Dilley, Mrs. Bennett's father.  Mrs. Bennett left surviving her a young babe.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I returned to Moore's Flat, and soon sold out my store, taking up the business of purchasing gold dust direct from the miners, which I followed for about two years, and in the fall of 1859 sold out the business to Marks &amp; Powers.  I looked about through Napa and Sonoma Counties, and finally came to San Jose, where I purchased the farm I now own, near Hillsdale, of Bodley &amp; McCabe, for which I paid $4,000.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the fall of the same year my old friend W. M. Stockton of Los Angeles Co. persuaded me to come down and pay him a visit.  His wife had died and he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>479</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I found Mr. Bennett to be a poor man.  He had been persuaded to go to Utah, being told that a fortune awaited his coming there, or could be accumulated in a short time.  He gave away the little babe left by his wife to Mrs. Scott, of Scott's Valley, in Santa Cruz Co. and sold his farm near the mouth of the Salinas River.  With what money he had accumulated he loaded two 4 mule teams with dry goods, put his four children into his wagon, and went to Cedar City, Utah.</P>
107.sgm:<P>He gave a thrilling account of passing through Mountain Meadows, where he saw, here and there little groups of skeletons of the unhappy victims of the great massacre at that place of men, women and children, by J. D. Lee, and his Mormon followers and told me the terrible story, which I here omit.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Smarting under the terrible taxation of one tenth of everything, Bennett grew poorer and at last resolved that he must go away, but his wife could not leave her own people, and so he set off with his children, somewhat afraid he might be shot down, but he reached Los Angeles Co. in safety.  One daughter married a lawyer in San Bernardino, and died a few years afterwards.  The other married a Capt. Johnson of Wilmington, and Bennett and two sons went to Idaho.</P>
107.sgm:<P>A few years ago in passing from San Jose to the Coast, my wife and I spent Sunday at Scott's Valley.  Mrs. Scott invited us to visit them in the evening at the house when all would be at home.  Mrs. Scott was the lady to whom Bennett gave his girl baby when he started away for Utah, and I felt very anxious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>480</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I studied over our early trials, crossing the plains over the deserts and our trying scenes out of Death Valley and turned all over in my mind for some time and finally all came to me like a flash and I could clearly see that the little lady was a true picture of her mother; I now began to ask questions about her folks, she said her father lived near Belmont, Nevada, and her grand-father died at the Monte, Los Angeles county Cal..  Our visit now became very interesting and we kept a late hour.</P>
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107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>Since writing the connected story which has thus far appeared, I turn back to give some incidents of life in the mines, and some description of those pioneer gold days.</P>
107.sgm:<P>I have spoken of Moore's Flat, Orleans Flat and Woolsey's Flat, all similarly situated on different points of the mountain, on the north side of the ridge between the South and Middle Yuba River, and all at about the same altitude.  A very deep can&tilde;on lies between each of them, but a good mountain road was built around the head of each can&tilde;on, connecting the towns.  When the snow got to be three or four feet deep the roads must be broken out and communication opened, and the boys used to turn out <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
107.sgm: and each one would take his turn in leading the army of road breakers.  When the leader got tired out some one would take his place, for it was terrible hard work to wade through snow up to one's hips, and the progress very slow.  But the boys went at it as if they were going to a picnic, and a sort of picnic it was when they reached the next town, for whisky was free and grub plenty to such a party, and jollity and fun the uppermost thoughts.  On one such occasion when the crowd came through Orleans Flat to Moore's Flat, Sid Hunt, the butcher, was in the lead as they came in sight of the latter place, and both he and his followers talked pretty loud and rough to the Moore's Flat fellows calling them "lazy pups" for not getting their road clear.  Hunt's helper was a big stout, loud talking young man named Williams, and he shouted to the leader--"Sid Hunt, toot your horn if you don't sell a clam."  This seemed to put both sides in good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>482</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>A young doctor came to Moore's Flat and soon became quite popular, and after a little while purchased a small drug store at Orleans Flat.  In this town there lived a man and his family and among them a little curly headed girl perhaps one or two years old.  She was sick and died and buried while the ground was covered thick with snow.  A little time after, it was discovered that the grave had been disturbed, and on examination no body was found in the grave.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Then it was a searching party was organized, and threats of vengence made against the grave robber if he should be caught.  No tracks were found leading out of town so they began to look about inside, and there began to be some talk about this Dr. Kittridge as the culprit.  He was the very man, and he went to his drug store and told his clerk to get a saddle horse and take the dead child's body in a sack to his cabin at Moore's Flat, and conceal it in a back room.  The clerk obeyed, and with the little corpse before him on the horse started from the back door and rode furiously to Moore's Flat, and concealed the body as he had been directed.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some noticed that he had ridden unusually fast, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>483</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The first tunnel run at Moore's Flat was called the Paradise, and had to be started low on the side of the mountain in order to drain the ground, and had to be blasted through the bed rock for about 200 feet.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Four of us secured ground enough by purchase so we could afford to undertake this expensive job and we worked on it day and night.  Jerry Clark and Len Redfield worked the day shifts, and Sam King and Wm. Quirk the night shift.  When the tunnel was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>484</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>481</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Then a party with lighted candles entered the tunnel to learn the fate of King, and they found him lying on the mass of rock the blast had lifted, dead.  On a piece of board they bore the body to his cabin.  There was hardly a whole bone remaining.  A cut diagonally across his face, made by a sharp stone, had nearly cut his head in two.  He had been thrown so violently against the roof of the tunnel, about 6 feet high, that he was completely mashed.</P>
107.sgm:<P>He had a wife in Mass. and as I had often heard him talk of her, and of sending her money, I bought a $100 check and sent it in the same letter which bore the melancholy news.  King had a claim at Chip's Flat which he believed would be very rich in time, so I kept his interest up in it till it amounted to $500 and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>485</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>482</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>We made a pine box, and putting his body in it, laid it away with respect.  I had often heard him say that if he suffered an accident, he wished to be killed outright and not be left a cripple, and his wish came true.</P>
107.sgm:<P>After this accident the blacksmith working for the Paradise Co., was making some repairs about the surface of the air shaft, and among his tools was a bar of steel an inch square, and 8 or 10 feet long, which was thrown across the shaft, and while working at the whim wheel he slipped and struck this bar which fell to the bottom of the shaft, 100 feet deep and the blacksmith followed.  When the other workmen went down to his assistance they found that the bar of steel had stuck upright in the bottom of the shaft, and when the man came down it pierced his body from hip to neck, killing him instantly.  He was a young man, and I have forgotten his name.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Those who came to California these later years will not many of them see the old apparatus and appliances which were used in saving the gold in those primitive days.  Among them was the old "Rocker."  This had a bottom about 5 feet long and 16 inches wide, with the sides about 8 inches high for half the lenght, and then sloped off to two inches at the end.  There was a bar about an inch high across the end to serve as a riffle, and on the higher end of this box is a stationary box 14 inches square, with sides 4 inches high and having a sheet iron bottom perforated with half inch holes.  On the bottom of the box are fastened two rockers like those on the baby cradle, and the whole had a piece of board or other solid foundation to stand on, the whoe being set at an angle to allow the gravel to work off at the lower end with the water.  A cleat was fastened across the bottom to catch the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>486</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>483</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Another way to work the dirt was to get a small head of water running in a ditch, and then run the water and gravel through a series of boxes a foot square and twelve feet long, using from one to ten boxes as circumstances seemed to indicate.  At the lower end of these boxes was placed the "Long Tom" which was about two feet wide at the lower end, and having sides six inches high at the same point.  The side pieces extend out about 3 feet longer than the wooden bottom, and are turned up to a point, some like a sled runner, and this turned up part has a bottom of sheet iron punched full of holes, the size of the sheet iron being about 3 feet by 16 inches.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The miners shovel dirt into the upper end of the boxes slowly, and regulate the water so that it dissolves the lumps and chunks very thoroughly before it reaches the long tom where a man stands and stirs the gravel over, and if nothing yellow is seen throws the washed gravel away, and lets the rest go through the screen.  Immediately below this screen was placed what was called a "riffle box," 2 by 4 feet in size with bars 4 inches high across the bottom and sides, and this box is set at the proper angle.  Now when the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>487</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>484</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>These methods of working were very crude, and we gradually became aware that the finest dust was not saved, and many improvements were brought into use.  In my own mine the tailings that we let go down the mountain side would lodge in large piles in different places, and after lying a year, more gold could be washed out of it than was first obtained, and some of it coarser, so that it was plainly seen that a better way of working would be more profitable.  There was plenty of ground called poor ground that had much gold in it but could not be profitably worked with the rocker and long tom.  The bed rock was nearly level and as the land had a gradual rise, the banks kept getting higher and higher as they dug farther in.  Now it was really good ground only down close to the bed rock, but all the dirt had some gold in it, and if a way could be invented to work it fast enough, such ground would pay.  So the plan of hydraulic mining was experimented upon.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The water was brought in a ditch or flume to the top of a high bank, and then terminated in a tight box.  To this box was attached a large hose made by hand out of canvas, and a pipe and nozzle attached to the lower end of the hose.  Now as the bank was often 100 feet or more high the water at this head, when directed through the nozzle against the bank, fairly melted it away into liquid mud.  Imagine us located a mile above the river on the side of a mountain.  We dug at first sluices in the rock to carry off the mud <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>488</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>485</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>The most gold would be left in the first sluice boxes but some would go on down to the very last, where the water and dirt was run off into the river.  They cleaned up the first sluices every week, a little farther down every month, while the lower ones would only be cleaned up at the end of the season.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In cleaning up, the blocks would be taken out of the boxes, and every little crevice or pocket in the whole length of the sluice cleaned out, from the bottom to the top, using little hooks and iron spoons made for the purpose.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The amalgam thus collected was heated in a retort which expelled the quicksilver in vapor, which was condensed and used again.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When they first tried hydraulic work a tinsmith made a nozzle out of sheet iron, but when put in practice, instead of throwing a solid stream, it scattered like an shotgun, and up at Moore's Flat they called the claims where they used it the "shotgun" claims.</P>
107.sgm:<P>From that time great improvements were made in hydraulic apparatns until the work done by them was really wonderful.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In 1850 there lived at Orleans Flat and Moore's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>489</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>486</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>In winter when the deep snow cut off all communication with the valley, our busy tinner ran short of solder, and seeing a limited supply in the tin cans that lay thick about, he engaged the boys to gather in a supply and showed them how they could be melted down to secure the solder with which they had been fastened, and thus provide for his immediate wants.  So the boys ransacked every spot where they had been thrown, under the saloon and houses, and in old dump holes everywhere, till they had gathered a pretty large pile which they fired as he had told them, and then panned out the ashes to secure the drops of metal which had melted down and cooled in small drops and bits below.  This was re-melted and cast into a mould made in a pine block, and the solder made into regular form.  About one-third was made up thus in good and honest shape.</P>
107.sgm:<P>But the boys soon developed a shrewdness that if more fully expanded might make them millionaires, but in the present small way they hoped to put to account in getting a few extra dimes.  They put a big chunk of iron in the mould and poured in the melted solder which enclosed it completely, so that when they presented the bright silvery bar to the old tinker he paid the price agreed upon and they divided the money between them, and then, in a secure place, they laughed till their sides ached at the good joke on the tinman.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In due time the man found out the iron core in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>490</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The older pioneers in these mining towns were, in many respects a peculiar class of men.  Most of them were sober and industrious, fearless and venturesome, jolly and happy when good luck came to them, and in misfortune stood up with brave, strong, manly hearts, without a tear or murmur.  They let the world roll merrily by, were ever ready with joke, mirth and fun to make their surroundings cheerful.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Fortunes came and went; they made money easily, and spent it just as freely, and in their generosity and kindly charity the old expression--"He has a heart like an ox" fitted well the character of most of them.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When luck turned against them they worked the harder, for the next turn might fill their big pockets with a fortune, and then the dream of capturing a wife and building up a home could be realized, and they would move out into the world on a wave of happiness and plenty.  This kind of talk was freely carried on around the camp fire in the long evenings, and who knows how many of these royal good fellows realized those bright hopes and glorious anticipations?  Who knows?</P>
107.sgm:<P>The names come back in memory of some of them, and others have been forgotten.  I recall Washington Work, H. J. Kingman, A. J. Henderson, L. J. Hanchett, Jack Hays, Seth Bishop, Burr Blakeslee, Jim <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>491</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>488</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>One day Jack Hays bought a pair of new boots, set them down in the store and went to turn off the miners supply of water.  When he returned he found his boots well filled with refuse crackers and water.  This he discovered when he took them up to go to dinner, and as he poured out the contents at the door, a half dozen boys across the street raised a big laugh at him, and hooted at his discomfiture.  Jack scowled an awful scowl, and if he called them "pukes" with a few swear words added, it was a mild way of pouring out his anger.  But after dinner the boys surrounded him and fairly laughed him into a good humor, so that he set up drinks for the crowd.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Foot races were a great Sunday sport, and dog fights were not uncommon.  One dog in our camp was champion of the ridge, and though other camps brought in their pet canines to eat him up, he was always the top dog at the end of the scrimmage, and he had a winning grip on the fore foot of his antagonist.</P>
107.sgm:<P>A big "husky" who answered to the name of Cherokee Bob came our way and stopped awhile.  He announced himself a foot racer, and a contest was soon arranged with Soda Bill of Nevada City, and each went into a course of training at his own camp.  Bob found some way to get the best time that Bill could make, and comparing it with his own, said he could beat in that race.  So when it came off our boys gathered up their money, and loaded down the stage, inside and out, departing with swinging hats and flying colors, and screaming in wild delight at the sure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>492</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Bob had `thrown' the race and skipped with his money before they could catch him.  Had he been found he would have been ungently hoisted to the first projecting limb, but he was never seen again.  The boys were sad and silent for a day or two, but a look of cheerful resignation soon came upon their faces as they handled pick and shovel, and the world rolled on as before.</P>
107.sgm:<P>One fall we had a county election, and among the candidates for office was our townsman, H. M. Moore, from whom Moore's Flat secured its name.  He was the Democratic nominee for County Judge, and on the other side was David Belden, he whom Santa Clara County felt proud to honor as its Superior Judge, and when death claimed him, never was man more sincerely mourned by every citizen.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The votes were counted, and Belden was one ahead.  Moore claimed another count, and this time a mistake was discovered in the former count, but unfortunately it gave Belden a larger majority than before, and his adversary was forced to abandon the political fight.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the fifties I traveled from the North Yuba River to San Bernardino on different roads, and made many acquaintances and friends.  I can truly say that I found many of these early comers who were the most noble men and women of the earth.  They were brave else they had never taken the journey through unknown deserts, and through lands where wild Indians had their homes.  They were just and true to friends, and to real enemies, terribly bitter and uncompromising.  Money was borrowed and loaned without a note or written obligation, and there was no mention made of statute laws as a rule of action.  When a real murderer or horsethief was caught no lawyers were needed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>493</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>Many of these worthy men broke the trail on the rough way that led to the Pacific Coast, drove away all dangers, and made it safer for those who dared not at first risk life and fortune in the journey, but, encouraged by the success of the earliest pioneers, ventured later on the eventful trip to the new gold fields.  I cannot praise these noble men too much; they deserve all I can say, and much more, too; and if a word I can say shall teach our new citizens to regard with reverent respect the early pioneers who laid the foundations of the glory, prosperity and beauty of the California of to-day, I shall have done all I hope to, and the historian of another half century may do them justice, and give to them their full meed of praise.</P>
107.sgm:<P>As long as I have lived in California I have never carried a weapon of defense, and never could see much danger.  I tried to follow the right trail so as to shun bad men, and never found much difficulty in doing so.  We hear much of the Vigilance Committee of early days.  It was an actual necessity of former times.  The gold fields not only attracted the good and brave, but also the worst and most lawless desperadoes of the world at large.  England's banished convicts came here from the penal colonies of Australia and Van Diemen's Land.  They had wonderful ideas of freedom.  In their own land the stern laws and numerous constabulary had not been able to keep them from crime.  A colony of criminals did not improve in moral tone, and when the most reckless and daring of all these were turned loose in a country like California, where the machinery of laws and officers to execute them was not yet in order, these lawless "Sidney <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>494</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The Vigilance Committee of San Francisco was composed of the best men in the world.  They endured all that was heaped upon them by these lawless men, and the law of self protection forced them to organize for the swift apprehension and punishment of crime, and the preservation of their property and lives.  No one was punished unjustly, but there was no delay, and the evil-doer met his fate swiftly and surely.  Justice was strict, and the circumstances were generally unfavorable to thoughts of mercy.  I was in San Francisco the day after Casey and Cory were hung by the Vigilance Committee.  Things looked quite military.  Fort Gunny-bags seemed well protected, and no innocent man in any danger.  I was then a customer of G. W. Badger and Lindenberger, clothiers, and was present one day in their store when some of the clerks came in from general duty, and their comrades shouldered the same guns and took their places on guard.  The Committee was so truly vigilant that these fire-bugs, robbers and cut-throats had to hide for safety.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Those who came early to this coast were, mostly, brave, venturesome, enduring fellows, who felt they could outlive any hardship and overcome all difficulties; they were of no ordinary type of character or habits.  They thought they saw success before them, and were determined to win it at almost any cost.  They had pictured in their minds the size of the "pile" that would satisfy them, and brought their buckskin bags with them, in various sizes, to hold the snug sum they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>495</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>These California pioneers were restless fellows, but those who came by the overland trail were not without education and refinement; they were, indeed, many of them, the very cream of Americans.  The new scenes and associations, the escape from the influence of home and friends, of wife and children, led some off the dim track, and their restlessness could not well be put down.  Reasonable men could not expect all persons under these circumstances to be models of virtue.  Then the Missouri River seemed to be the western boundary of all civilization, and as these gold hunters launched out on the almost trackless prairies that lay westward of that might stream, many considered themselves as entering a country of peculiar freedom, and it was often said that "Law and morality never crossed the Missouri River."  Passing this great stream was like the crossing of the Rubicon in earlier history, a step that could not be retraced, a launching to victory or death.  Under this state of feeling many showed the cloven foot, and tried to make trouble, but in any emergency good and honest men seemed always in the majority, and those who had thoughts or desires of evil were compelled to submit to honorable and just conclusions.</P>
107.sgm:<P>There were some strange developments of character among these travelers.  Some who had in long attendance at school and church, listened all their lives to teachings of morality and justice, and at home seemed to be fairly wedded to ideas of even rights between man and man, seemed to experience a change of character as they neared the Pacific Coast.  Amiable dispositions became soured, moral ideas sadly blunted, and their whole make-up seemed changed, while others who at home seemed to be of rougher mould, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>496</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>493</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Men from every state from New Hampshire to Texas gathered on the banks of the Missouri to set out together across the plains.  These men reared in different climates, amid different ways and customs, taught by different teachers in schools of religion and politics, made up a strange mass when thus thrown together; but the good and true came to the surface, and the turbulent and bad were always in a hopeless minority.  Laws seemed to grow out of the very circumstances, and though not in print, flagrant violations would be surely punished.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Some left civilization with all the luxuries money could buy--fine, well-equipped trains of their own, and riding a fat and prancing steed, which they guided with gloved hands, and seemed to think that water and grass and pleasant camping places would always be found wherever they wished to stop for rest, and that the great El Dorado would be a grand pleasure excursion, ending in a pile of gold large enough to fill their big leather purse.  But the sleek, fat horse grew poor; the gloves with embroidered gauntlet wrists were cast aside; the trains grew small, and the luxuries vanished, and perhaps the plucky owner made the last few hundred miles on foot, with blistered soles and scanty pack, almost alone.  Many of these gay trains never reached California, and many a pioneer who started with high hopes died upon the way, some rudely buried, some left where they fell upon the sands or rocks.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Those who got through found a splendid climate and promising prospects before them of filling empty stomachs and empty pockets, and were soon searching <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>497</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>494</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Prospectors wandered through the mountains in search of new and suitable gold diggings, and when they came to a miner's cabin the door was always open, and whether the owner was present or absent they could go in, and if hungry, help themselves to anything they found in shape of food, and go away again without fear of offense, for under such circumstances the unwritten law said that grub was free.</P>
107.sgm:<P>By the same unwritten law, stealing and robbery, as well as murder, were capital offences, and lawless characters were put down.  Favors were freely granted, and written obligations were never asked or given, and business was governed by the rules of strictest honor.  The great majority of these pioneers were the bone and sinew of the nation, and possessed a fair share of the brains.  In a personal experience with them extending from early days to the present time I have found them always just and honorable, and I regret that it is not within my ability to give the praise they deserve.  When a stranger and hungry I was never turned away without food, and my entertainment was free, and given without thought of compensation or reward.</P>
107.sgm:<P>In the chambers of my mind are stored up the most pleasant recollections of these noble men whose good deeds in days gone by have earned for them the right to a crown of glory of greatest splendor.</P>
107.sgm:<P>These noble souls who came here 40 years ago are fast passing away across the Mystic River, and those who trod on foot the hot and dusty trail are giving way to those who come in swiftly rolling palace cars, and who hardly seem to give a thought to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>498</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>I have a suggestion to make to the descendants of these noble pioneers, that to perpetuate the memory of their fathers, and do reverence to their good and noble deeds in the early history of this grand State, there should be erected upon the highest mountain top a memorial building wherein may be inscribed the names and histories of the brave pioneers, so they may never be blotted out.</P>
107.sgm:<P>THE JAYHAWKERS.</P>
107.sgm:<P>The most perfect organization of the pioneers who participated more or less in the scenes depicted in this volume, is that of the Jayhawkers, and, strange to say, this organization is in the East, and has its annual meetings there, although the living members are about equally divided between the East and the Pacific Coast.  As related elsewhere, February 4th is the day of the annual meeting, for on that day they reached the Santa Clara Valley.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It is greatly regretted that a more direct and complete account of the Death Valley experience of the Jayhawkers could not have been obtained for this work.  To be sure it was from the lips of a living witness told in many conversations, but no doubt many striking incidents were left out.  It is, however, a settled thing that these, and other individuals with whom he was immediately connected, were more intimately connected with the horrors of the sunken valley which was given its name by them, than were any other persons who ever crossed that desert region.</P>
107.sgm:<P>It will be considered that this was the most favorable time of year possible, and that during the spring or summer not one would have lived to tell the tale.</P>
107.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>499</CONTROLPGNO>
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107.sgm:<P>The Author, to his best, has done his duty to all, and concludes with the hope that this mite may authenticate one of the saddest chapters in the history of the Golden State.</P>
107.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CONCLUSION.</HEAD>
107.sgm:<P>This story is not meant to be sensational, but a plain, unvarnished tale of truth--some parts hard and very sad.  It is a narrative of my personal experience, and being in no sense a literary man or making any pretense as a writer, I hope the errors may be overlooked, for it has been to me a difficult story to tell, arousing as it did sad recollections of the past.  I have told it in the plainest, briefest way, with nothing exaggerated or overdone.  Those who traveled over the same or similar routes are capable of passing a just opinion of the story.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Looking back over more than 40 years, I was then a great lover of liberty, as well as health and happiness, and I possessed a great desire to see a new country never yet trod by civilized man, so that I easily caught the gold fever of 1849, and naught but a trip to that land of fabled wealth could cure me.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Geography has wonderfully changed since then.  Where Omaha now stands there was not a house in 1849.  Six hundred miles of treeless prairie without a house brought us to the adobe dwellings at Fort Laramie, and 400, more or less, were the long miles to Mormondom, still more than 700 miles from the Pacific Coast.  Passing over this wilderness was like going to sea without a compass.</P>
107.sgm:<P>Hence it will be seen that when we crossed a stream that was said to flow to the Pacific Ocean, myself and comrades were ready to adopt floating down its current as an easier road than the heated trail, and for three weeks, over rocks and rapids, we floated and tumbled down the deep can&tilde;on of Green River till we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>500</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>497</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>Out of this trouble we were once again on the safe road from Salt Lake to Los Angeles, and again made error in taking a cut-off route, and striking across a trackless country because it seemed to promise a shorter distance, and where thirteen of our party lie unburied on the sands of the terribly dry valley.  Those who lived were saved by the little puddles of rain water that had fallen from the small rain clouds that had been forced over the great Sierra Nevada Mountains in one of the wettest winters ever known.  In an ordinary year we should have all died of thirst, so that we were lucky in our misfortune.</P>
107.sgm:<P>When we came out to the fertile coast near Los Angeles, we found good friends in the native Californians who, like good Samaritans, gave us food and took us in, poor, nearly starved creatures that we were, without money or property from which they could expect to be rewarded.  Their deeds stand out whiter in our memories than all the rest, notwithstanding their skins were dark.  It seems to me such people do not live in this age of the world which we are pleased to call advanced.  I was much with these old Californians, and found them honest and truthful, willing to divide the last bit of food with a needy stranger or a friend.  Their good deeds have never been praised enough, and I feel it in my heart to do them ample justice while I live.</P>
107.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>501</CONTROLPGNO>
107.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>498</PRINTPGNO>
107.sgm:<P>The work that was laid out for me to do, to tell when and where I went, is done.  Perhaps in days to come it may be of even more interest than now, and I shall be glad I have turned over the scenes in my memory and recorded them, and on some rolling stone you may inscribe the name of WILLIAM LEWIS MANLEY, born near St. Albans, Vermont, April 20th, 1820, who went to Michigan while yet it was a territory, as an early pioneer; then onward to Wisconsin before it became a state, and for twelve long, weary months traveled across the wild western prairies, the loft mountains and sunken deserts of Death Valley, to this land which is now so pleasant and so fair, wherein, after over 40 years of earnest toil, I rest in the midst of family and friends, and can truly say I am content.</P>
107.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
108.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-108</TITLE>
108.sgm:<TITLE>Chambliss diary; or, Society as it really is.  By William H. Chambliss. Fully illustrated with over fifty copper-plate half-tones and photo-engravings. Including twenty-five society pictures by Laura E. Foster:  a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
108.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
108.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
108.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
108.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceeding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
108.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>14-14064</LCCN>
108.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
108.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>27787</COPYRIGHT>
108.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>CHAMBLISS' DIARY;</p><P>OR,</p><P>SOCIETY AS IT REALLY IS.</p><P>BY</p><P>WILLIAM H. CHAMBLISS.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Fully Illustrated with over Fifty Copper-plate Half-Tones</HI>
108.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">and Photo-Engravings</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>INCLUDING TWENTY-FIVE SOCIETY PICTURES BY</p><P>LAURA E. FOSTER.</p><P>NEW YORK:</p><P>CHAMBLISS &amp; COMPANY, PUBLISHERS,</p><P>PULITZER BUILDING.</p><P>1895.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1894 AND 1895,</p><P>BY</p><P>THE AUTHOR.</p><P><HI REND="italics">All rights reserved</HI>
108.sgm:</p><P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1895, by WILLIAM H. CHAMBLISS,</p><P>in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D.C.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iii</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:<P>DEDICATION.</p><P><HI REND="italics">To my Mother, and all other Good Mothers</HI>
108.sgm::</p><P>Knowing that the mutual chief object of the lives of all true mothers is, as it always was and always will be, the improvement of the human family, and believing that a concentration of attention--which is bound to come about sooner or later--on certain evils which exist among the supposed better classes in our large cities, would result in a decided improvement, I beg to dedicate to you these pages as a testimonial of appreciation of what the better half of enlightened mankind would like to do for society.</p><P>W. H. CHAMBLISS.</p><P>NEW YORK, April 14, 1895.</p></DIV>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>ACCORDING to the ablest critics, authors are witnesses.  Therefore the press and the reading public must be the lawyers, the judges, and the jury.</p><P>This book contains the truth.</p><P>It is intended, bear in mind, for persons who possess intelligence enough to think for themselves.</p><P>While mainly on the subject of society, it nevertheless touches on travel.</p><P>As the book has been written at odd moments, and under a great variety of circumstances, in various parts of the world, it has received a title not inapplicable, I hope, to a record of individual experiences, candid opinions, and rambling observations of all classes of society.</p><P>I have kept a diary for more than twelve years, during which time I served a regular apprenticeship in the United States Naval Training Squadron, made a voyage around the world, served four years as an officer in ships of the merchant marine service, and afterward spent considerable time traveling abroad, as well as in the United States, in pursuit of additional knowledge of the ways of the world.</p><P>The foolish attempt of certain members of the parvenu element of San Francisco and New York to suppress the book before it was half written, by accusing me of being too personal in my remarks, and writing in a spirit of revenge, only goes to prove that the guilty sometimes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:call attention to their errors by denying things of which no one has accused them.</p><P>In order to show the difference between real respectability and vulgar pretension in high, or alleged high, life, I have indulged in a few personal remarks, and have given some examples that will corroborate the openly expressed opinions of many honorable citizens, who declare that the alleged or self-styled high society is just the reverse of what it claims to be.  I have written this for the good of society, and not with a view to injuring anyone.</p><P>No person has a higher regard for real respectability than I have, and my destestation for shoddyism, snobbery, and insolence, the three principal strands in the mainstay of the alleged high society, ranks second to that of none.</p><P>The compilers of dictionaries evidently never imagined that the parvenus of any American community would ever become so thoroughly un-Americanized as to necessitate the coining of a new word comprehensive enough to express the contempt with which the upstarts of the present day inspire all persons endowed with God's gift to man--common sense.</p><P>The word Parvenucracy (pronounce Par&acute;-ven-o&breve;oc&acute;-ra&acute;-cy), used in this book, has been designed expressly for this subject.</p><P>Parvenucracy means those arch-parvenus, and their followers, who imagine that the mere acquisition of a few thousand dollars, coupled with an unlimited supply of insolence and arrogance, is all that they require in order to gain admission to the homes of persons of culture and refinement.</p><P>Throughout the book I have endeavored to write in language that is used in ordinary conversation.  In order <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:to make the book readable, I have refrained from the perpetration of such "fashionable" absurdities as quotations from alien, unknown, and dead languages.</p><P>I have one request to make of the reader, and that is, to bear in mind that in commenting upon the absurdities of certain individuals, whose names I have used, I have not been actuated by any personal dislike.  It is entirely a matter of principle.  I see no harm in using the names of impostors who hanker after notoriety of the most ridiculous kind, in order to create the impression that they are that which, Heaven knows, they are not.  There is no more personal feeling in the contents of these pages than there is in the writings of the humorous reporter, who is assigned by the city editor to supply a few columns of legitimate news for a reliable daily paper, or in the productions of the caricaturists attached to the staffs of <HI REND="italics">Puck, Wasp</HI>
108.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Judge</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>If it is wrong to point out certain corruptions; if it is sinful and irreverent to say that those corruptions are hurtful to purity and virtue; if it is wrong to criticise so-called gentlemen for ignoring their marriage vows; if it is unlawful to suggest the setting up of a social standard not to be cursed with the domination of ill-gotten wealth; and last, but not least, if it is wrong to say that the negro ex-slave--the very lowest of all creation resembling man--is unfit to become the husband of the American gentleman's daughter, the flower of our nation, then I sincerely hope that my humble opinions and truthful reminiscences may never reach the intelligent public.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>THANKS FOR ADVANCE PRESS NOTICES.</p><P>THE author begs to inform the reader that all credit for the good that may result from the publication of his Diary is due to his Friends and the Press.</p><P>His friends advised him to write, and the press notified the public that the book was being written.</p><P>No better proof that the leading representatives of the American press favor the stamping out of corruption, and the establishment of a higher social standard, is wanted than the fact that they assist with their able pens all authors who write for the public good; and no better example exists at the present time than the liberal, friendly aid extended to the author of this book.</p><P>Since the announcement that the work was being prepared for publication, the gratuitous advance press notices, in various parts of the nation, have already amounted to the gigantic sum of over three hundred and ninety thousand words (390,000), besides pictures and caricatures enough to fill dozens of columns of valuable space.</p><P>The San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:, the monarch of the Western dailies, for instance, has, up to date, devoted over thirty columns of news space to the assistance of the principles advocated in the book.  At the rate of 1200 words to the column, allowing for pictures and display head-lines, the notices of this great people's newspaper alone amount to 36,000 words of news, besides a leading editorial of 1000 words, all commending the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:object of the book.  The New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
108.sgm:, the Chicago <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
108.sgm:, the Chicago <HI REND="italics">Times-Herald</HI>
108.sgm:, the St. Louis <HI REND="italics">Republic</HI>
108.sgm:, and many other leading American dailies, fell in line with the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:, and devoted column after column to it.  The New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
108.sgm: published in its St. Patrick's Day edition an article of about 3500 words on the front page of the supplement.  Extracts from this article were telegraphed all the way across the continent and published in many papers.  <HI REND="italics">The Wasp</HI>
108.sgm:, the great cartoon paper of the West, published a caricature of the author in a bullet-proof coat; and the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
108.sgm: made sufficient mention of the work to show his recognition of the effort.</p><P>The following extracts will show the spirit of the press concerning the book.</p><P>The first intimation that the public received of the work was in the following notice, under the head of Sparks, by Mr. Mackay, in the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">News Letter</HI>
108.sgm::</p><P>"Since William H. Chambliss returned from the Orient he has been busy writing a book, which will soon be published.  The most interesting features of the work will be extracts from his Diary, which he has kept since he was a boy.  It will contain glimpses of life as Mr. Chambliss found it when he was enrolled in Uncle Sam's Navy, and sketches of his experiences in San Francisco society.  There are few men of his age who have seen as much of the world as he has.  He entered the navy when he was seventeen, and graduated in 1887, after having circumnavigated the globe in the schoolship <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm:.  His life as an officer in the Pacific Mail Steamship Company was interesting and varied, and he has in his possession many treasures of a world's pilgrimage."</p><P>The enterprising editor of the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm: read the <HI REND="italics">News Letter's</HI>
108.sgm: friendly mention, and at once detailed Mr. C. M. Coe to call for some further information to give to the public.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>After looking over the <HI REND="italics">Diary</HI>
108.sgm:, Mr. Coe picked out some extracts and published them in a two-column article, which attracted the attention of the press of the country.</p><P>From the <HI REND="italics">Examiner's</HI>
108.sgm: first criticism the following is extracted:</p><P>"CHAMBLISS AS AN AUTHOR.</p><P>"WRITING A BOOK ON SOCIAL LIFE.</p><P>"William H. Chambliss, the young society leader, and organizer of the Monday Evening Cotillion Club, is writing a book.</p><P>"The scheme of embalming his ideas in literature struck him many months ago, and with him to receive an idea is to act upon it.</p><P>"A call was made on him yesterday, when it was found that he had transformed his Palace Hotel suite of rooms into a veritable literary den.</p><P>"In his writings, he has not stinted himself in expression.  He writes frankly and tells not only what he knows, but also what he thinks.  <HI REND="italics">Chambliss' Diary</HI>
108.sgm: contains a mine of information of a kind not readily to be had."</p><P>FOLLOWING ARE EXTRACTS FROM PAPERS TAKEN UP AT RANDOM.</p><P>"Mr. Chambliss, a prominent society man of San Francisco, is writing a book descriptive of society as it really is, and Miss Laura E. Foster, a popular society lady, is illustrating it.  The selection of Miss Foster for such a task is a decided compliment to her ability as an artist."-- <HI REND="italics">Alameda Daily Argus</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"The forthcoming work on society, by W. H. Chambliss, will fill a long felt want."-- <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Bee</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"The literary style of the book is peculiarly his own, and there is little doubt that he will create a sensation in society.  In fact, it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:is doubtful if anyone but Mr. Chambliss could have written it."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Times-Herald</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"It is a protest against what the author calls the `Parvenucracy,' which he asserts has society by the throat.</p><P>"The word is a new one, and describes a condition of wealth, arrogance, ignorance, bad manners, and immorality which the author says exists in parvenu society.</p><P>"He declares that the antics of the Parvenucracy, and the ridiculous make-up of their so-called society, place San Francisco in a bad light with the rest of the country.</p><P>"In New York, says Mr. Chambliss, you have the rich vulgarian whose wealth is due to brains, and whose sons stand a chance of inheriting brains, but in San Francisco we have the arch-parvenu, a complete mutton-head, who simply stumbled across a lot of money.</p><P>"The author is a Southerner, and he says this leveling of social requirement is degrading, and that a higher social standard should be set up."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"Judging from the extended notices given Mr. Chambliss by the New York and Chicago papers, his book will create a social sensation."-- <HI REND="italics">Port Gibson (Miss.) Reveille</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"The author of <HI REND="italics">Society as it Really Is</HI>
108.sgm:, is far from being a happy man.  First he was worried to distraction by ambitious people who wanted to receive mention in the book; and now several persons, whose antics he has commented upon, threaten to quarter him if he mentions them.  I would advise Mr. Chambliss to equip himself at once with one of Herr Dowe's bullet-proof coats."-- <HI REND="italics">The Wasp</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"Apropos of art, Miss Laura E. Foster of Alameda is illustrating Mr. Chambliss' society book, which one hears so much about nowadays.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"Miss Foster is very clever with her pen and ink.  She won the prize offered by the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm: for the best design for a lady's bicycle suit."-- <HI REND="italics">Pacific Town Talk</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"No subject has created more interest and speculation in society circles during the past few months than the book to be entitled <HI REND="italics">Chambliss' Diary; or, Society as it Really Is</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"In the dedication the author gives the keynote to the contents of the forthcoming book.  It is dedicated to his mother, and declares that, as the chief object of the lives of all true mothers is the improvement of society, concentration of attention on existing evils must result in a general improvement in mankind.  The style of the work is straightforward, and no one can doubt the author's sincerity.</p><P>"Though caustic and fearless in holding up the absurdities and pretensions of the new-rich as a warning to others, he has nevertheless a dignified purpose and a certain kindliness of treatment which can offend only those whose errors he speaks of."-- <HI REND="italics">San Francisco News Letter</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"A recent announcement that a book would appear entitled <HI REND="italics">Chambliss' Diary</HI>
108.sgm: has caused more interest, and awakened more curiosity in the public mind, especially among society people, than any work for a number of years.</p><P>"The author is well known as a typical representative of honored heredity.  His life and career have given him favorable opportunities to see society life as it really is, and the `Diary' is a truthful narrative of the customs and usages of the best society, and a scathing review of shoddyism, vulgarity, and truckling sycophancy, abundant in the so-called society of parvenus."-- <HI REND="italics">Jared Hoag's California and her Builders</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"The object of the book is to show the difference between the better elements of society and the pretenders who claim social supremacy on account of wealth alone."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Tribune</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Chambliss' Diary</HI>
108.sgm: will be the most successful book ever issued on society.  There is a profound conviction all around that the author is a man who has had the opportunity of studying the human nature he is portraying on paper.  He has traveled extensively all over the world, always moving in the best circles of society.  He comes from one of the oldest families in Mississippi."-- <HI REND="italics">Miss Jessi Robertson's San Francisco Society</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>FUTILE ATTEMPT AT SUPPRESSION.</p><P>The high-handed attempt of several members of the Crocker-Huntington-S.P.R.R. faction to suppress the publication of the work has been told in the columns of the press.  Mention of same will be found on pages 358 to 363.</p><P>The San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:, in commenting upon the absurdity of trying to suppress the truth, made the following remarks in a leading editorial:</p><P>"That there should be a considerable dissension from the publication of <HI REND="italics">Mr. Chambliss' Diary</HI>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>THE word Society, as it is generally used in conversation and writing, by all civilized persons in the United States, is supposed to mean the better or more refined portion of any law-respecting community; well-bred persons of culture and enlightenment, to whom the masses may look for the very best examples in everything that pertains to social usages; citizens whose actions are above reproach; ladies and gentlemen who, by their pure instincts and good influences, direct and facilitate the advancement of respectability.</p><P>When we speak of the state of society, we do not mean the condition of any organization or "set," the members of which may claim distinction above all other "sets" or organizations in a community; we do not mean the high municipal officers, for mere incumbency is no guarantee of either veracity or integrity, or even common decency, nowadays; and we certainly do not mean the rich people of a community, for it is not necessary for a person to possess vast wealth in order to be a good citizen; we simply mean the general state of civilization.</p><P>All persons of intelligence should understand that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:present state of civilization is due to the labors of those who brought it about; therefore, the word society is not applicable to persons of leisure, who do nothing at all except boast that they never work, simply because they have enough to live on without doing anything that resembles work, or as they themselves express it: "We don't work because we don't have to."</p><P>That is just it exactly; they prefer to live their useless lives in idleness, and squander what was earned, honestly, perhaps, in some instances, by those who are no longer numbered among the living.</p><P>When a man boasts that he is a "gentleman of leisure," it is perfectly safe to consider him a fool, an impostor, an upstart, or anything except a gentleman.</p><P>Among creatures of this class, refinement, culture, politeness, proper behavior, and in fact, all things that tend to elevate mankind, are held in about as much esteem as honor among the politicians of the present time.</p><P>With those who claim to be members of the "leisure class," the definition of society seems to have undergone a complete change.  According to their edicts, no one who is thoroughly upright and honorable in all things can possibly be a good citizen.  To tell the truth about anything is high treason.</p><P>I wish it distinctly understood that in speaking of this useless "leisure class," I do not mean all persons who are rich enough to live without work, nor do I mean those who, having earned fortunes honestly, see fit, in the afternoon of their lives, to retire from active business cares and take some enjoyment out of the profits of their labors.  Far from it, for it would be extremely absurd for me to give the reader any such impression of my personal knowledge of mankind, which has been derived <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:entirely from experience and associations.  There are many retired business men, and retired officers of the army and navy, in this country, whom I consider gentlemen in every sense of the modern definition of the word.</p><P>In speaking of a gentleman's social qualifications, his financial standing should never be mentioned as a requisite factor, for if he <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
108.sgm: a gentleman, he will be one at all times and under all circumstances, adverse or otherwise, and the combined malice of all his enemies, and the malignant growling, the ludicrous barking, and the pitiful whinings of all the jealous rivals, two-faced acquaintances, and fair-weather friends in creation can never change his real nature, any more than such petty annoyances have changed the individual opinions of the man we now, for the second term, honor as the acknowledged highest official gentleman of the nation: Grover Cleveland.</p><P>It is customary at state dinners and banquets to propose the health of the chief magistrate of the host's country first.  We Americans are noted for showing less respect to our Chief Executive than any other civilized people.</p><P>Supposing now that the reader has read and digested the prefatory remarks and the dedication, let us continue our dissection of the social system by proposing the health of the President upon whose shoulders all disappointed mercenary office-seekers and malcontented anarchists, irrespective of party, political hypocrisy, or previous occupation, have endeavored to saddle <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
108.sgm: the blame for the treachery and imbecility of the up-to-date Judases and would-be builders of a Tower of Babel, known, be it written to the sorrow and shame of society at large, as the Fifty-third Congress.</p><P>History tells us that a large majority of our great men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:were born poor.  Several Presidents of the United States were born in very modest circumstances.  Our Saviour, for that matter, was born in a stable.  Therefore a person who professes Christianity should never condemn a good man on account of his having been born poor, or because he works for his living.</p><P>The Revolutionary War left our forefathers, who fought for the independence of America, in very straitened circumstances.  In those days men were not judged by the size of their bank accounts.  Parvenus and "gentlemen of leisure" were unknown quantities for many years.  Our ancestors found, after seven years of hard fighting, that they had independence and nothing else, except what they were able to produce by cultivating the soil and engaging in legitimate trade and business pursuits.  They were equal to the occasion, however, and civilization made rapid progress under the new form of government; and by general consent it was agreed that there should never be any more aristocracy in America.  As long as this principle was maintained, our country was the acknowledged paradise of the world.</p><P>It soon became known in all the countries of Europe that the American form of government allowed equal rights to all civilized races; and then the tide of immigration to this country set in.  The newcomers met with receptions that they had never dreamed of in their native countries.  They were welcomed upon their arrival, and extended all of the privileges enjoyed by those who had fought to free the country from the foreign yoke.</p><P>At first, immigration was a good thing for the country.  Many good people, sick and tired of the oppression of monarchs and aristocrats, came over and proved to be valuable citizens.  But too much of a good thing of this kind is worse than not enough.  Out of this foreign <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PRESIDENT CLEVELAND,<LB>The Highest Official Gentleman, in the uniform of Commander-in-Chief of the Army and Navy.  <HI REND="italics">By permission of The Illustrated American</HI>
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108.sgm:immigration there sprang up an evil which has grown to such alarming proportions that, at the present time, our very form of government is threatened with disruption.</p><P>Glad of an opportunity to get rid of their paupers, France, Germany, Italy, Portugal, Great Britain, Russia, Spain, Norway, and Sweden threw open the flood-gates of their sewers, and shipped us thousands and hundreds of thousands of the very lowest and most undesirable elements of civilization.</p><P>Those unfortunate creatures, who never enjoyed in their own countries the privileges that stray felines and canines are allowed over here, are the very devils, in human form, who defy law and order, and threaten the destruction of the government that fosters them.</p><P>Bad as the hated Chinese are, any true thinking person, who knows what he is talking about, will tell you that the European paupers who are pouring into New York, and spreading westward as fast as they can be counted by the corrupt officials, are worse than the Chinese a hundred times over.  The Chinese laborer never interferes with our politics, nor undertakes to defy our laws, as the European beggar does.  The Chinaman gives full value in labor for every cent that he gets from his employer, and he does his work without a murmur; while the European pauper, suddenly elevated to a three dollar a day job, is always ready to go on a strike and ruin his employer without a moment's notice.</p><P>Almost every day of the year that the weather permits, you can see the curbstone orators all over San Francisco shouting at the tops of their steam-beer-toned voices that "the Chinese must go!" but you never hear anyone of those vagabonds say anything about the European outlaws, or the "emancipated" African savages who are murdering the officers and soldiers of our government, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:wrecking our railroad trains, robbing our citizens, assaulting and butchering American ladies and children, and pillaging and burning our homes.  Oh, no! the demon who commits the crime is "only fighting for his rights."</p><P>"He's all right," shouts the malodorous, anarchistic agitators and curbstone orators.  "Let him go right ahead and rob, murder, burn, steal, wreck trains, stop the United States mails, ransack private homes, butcher defenseless ladies"--anything at all that his villainous imagination may suggest.  Everything goes just so long as he will vote for a jingo for president, or an O'Donnell for mayor.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: And he is winked at by General Dimond and ex-Admiral Meade, and treated to steam beer by other "soldiers" of the national "guard" of patriotic pension pickers.  But "the Chinese," who never commit any such depredations, "must go."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">I mean Dr. C. C. O'Donnell of Chinatown, S. F.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>Those very open-air politicians, who are obliged to do their fuming and raving in wagons and on street corners for the reason that the proprietors of public halls refuse them admission, are worse than the Chinese "highbinders" ever dared to be.</p><P>Now, I am not advocating the Chinese, by any means.  I never did like a Chinaman.  Personally, I dislike him very much, but I prefer him to the anarchist and the African at all times.  This is merely an expression of candid opinion on the absurdity of allowing those anarchistic old beer-soaked vagrants of the Dennis Kearney, Dr. O'Donnell, Eugene Debs class of society, calling themselves orators, to obstruct the public streets to tell their illiterate followers that a man who never interferes with anybody's business must be killed or sent away, while the worst murderers, cut-throats, train-wreckers, robbers, anarchists, bomb-throwers, thieves, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:and other outlaws that ever went unhanged, are allowed to commit the most atrocious crimes, and go along unmolested.</p><P>No politician or office-seeker seems to have the moral courage to say, "The anarchists and Africans must go!"  Through fear of losing a few votes, the politicians do not even venture to say that the anarchists must stop coming over from Europe.  When an anarchist is brought into court and tried for murder or arson, he generally goes free.  The reason of this is because there are enough of them in the country to clog the wheels of the machinery of justice, which are oiled and regulated to protect all manner of fraud, and turn only in the direction indicated by organized political capital.  The up-to-date politician is the friend of the anarchist; he cares nothing about his color or odor--he needs his vote.</p><P>The very vilest anarchists that ever lived are pouring into New York by the shipload, all the time, and yet no politician seems to make the slightest objection to their coming.</p><P>A Chinese exclusion act we already have.  What we are sadly in need of now is an European exclusion act that will shut out foreign immigration of all classes.  Not that I am opposed to foreigners on general principles; not that I am prejudiced against the <HI REND="italics">better</HI>
108.sgm: elements of European society, for no one appreciates more than I the indisputable fact that <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
108.sgm: ladies and gentlemen are desirable citizens, whether they are of Italian, Spanish, French, English, Irish, German, Dutch, or any other civilized nationality; but we have all that we can take care of now, and it is time to announce through Congress that the invitation list is closed.  Herein lies a brilliant opportunity for some real American statesman.</p><P>The man who frames and engineers this bill through Congress will go down to history, and will be esteemed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:by all true Americans as the greatest man of the day.  The necessity of a general exclusion act is so great and so plain to every good citizen, that, if one is not framed soon, we will be forced into the belief that every member of Congress, capable of framing such a bill, is bought up by the gigantic steamship and railroad companies, and other corporations of Europe and the East, that contract for and bring those immigrants over.  As a true born citizen, I move that our gates be locked against this foreign invasion, called immigration, and that the naturalization law be repealed at once.  I am not a politician, but I should like to know if there is one politician or office-seeker in the country who is not afraid to second this motion.</p><P>An act authorizing the deportation of a few millions of anarchists and savages, irrespective of color or nationality, would be hailed with delight.</p><P>If those demons could be returned to their native countries and exchanged for law-abiding persons, Congress would be justified in appropriating a sum sufficient to defray all expenses necessary for transportation both ways.  And we could well afford to let English ships do the transporting.</p><P>The general exclusion act should contain an article specially designed for the unconditional exclusion of penniless princes, lords, barons, counts, and all other cheap-titled adventurers who, like Prince Andre Poniatowski and Count de Castellane, are likely to be sent over here in the future, by the same board of matrimonial brokers that sent these two sweet-scented "noblemen" (?), to marry rich parvenuesses on percentage.  Such adventurers are representatives of the better elements of foreign society about as much, in reality, as are the notorious members of the Parvenucracy who purchase them--and pay their gambling debts and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PENNILESS PRINCE PONIATOWSKI'S SOCIETY AUCTION SALE. <LB>"How much am I offered for myself, my gall and my empty title?  "First, second, third and last call and sold to the flour sack."</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:Mistress hire--representatives of true American society; namely, in their feeble minds.</p><P>A special clause should be worded so as to render it utterly impossible for those soulless daughters, adopted daughters, sisters-in-law, or nieces, as the case may be, of our Parvenucracy, who "marry" titled paupers with yellow striped crests, to ever return to America under any pretext whatever.</p><P>Those marble-hearted specimens of femininity who trade their very souls and bodies, as well as their ill-gotten gold, for ignoble empty titles, are worse, morally and intellectually, and really do more harm to society at large, than even the unfortunate Chinese and Japanese dancing girls who are imported to this country and sold to the Oriental merchants, who, as soon as they tire of them, again dispose of them to the keepers of houses of shame similar to the house kept by Maud Nelson, the daughter-in-law of the millionaire ex-senator, James G. Fair of Nevada and California.</p><P>Not one of Mr. Fair's daughters has succeeded in marrying a prince as yet, but the up-to-date "Magdalen" that his son Charlie married has a past record that, from a moral point of view, would compare favorably, as far as the income from her peculiar business permitted her to go, with that of any prince who has lived since the days of Charles II.; not excepting even Prince Hatzfeldt, who married the "adopted"(?) daughter of the C.P.R.R. octopus, surnamed Huntington; Prince Colonna, who married the daughter of Bonanza Mackay's "wife"; or Prince Poniatowski, whom William H. Crocker, the "king" of Snob Hill, is said to have purchased for a Fourth of July present for his "true American" sister-in-law, Miss Beth Sperry, soon after old man Carpentier, of Oakland, refused to buy it for his little niece, Miss Maude Burke, before the latter became Lady Bache-Cunard.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>FROM the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm: I copy the following article:</p><P>"So frequent has the exchange of American dollars for European titles become that the public hardly realizes what it means.  The papers chronicle the engagement between the daughter of an American multi-millionaire and the scion of some impoverished, but long-pedigreed, noble house across the water.  Pictures of both the young people appear in the larger papers throughout the country, in which pictures the beauty of the girl is generally in vivid contrast with the insignificant appearance of the man.</p><P>"Then follow columns upon columns concerning the trousseau and wedding preparations; finally a brilliant account of the marriage, and generally a year later divorce proceedings or something of that sort.</p><P>"The American public has almost ceased even to make fun of this remarkable barter of American girls.  The average citizen is only mildly interested, and if he thinks about it at all dismisses it from his mind with the comforting belief that for every millionaire's daughter who carries her father's hard-earned dollars across the ocean to be expended in paying gambling debts or refurnishing wornout estates, there are a half hundred left.  People consider the supply inexhaustible, but a careful investigation of the facts shows a state of affairs that is perfectly astounding.</p><P>"A complete list of all the marriages of American women <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:to titled men, for the past thirty-five years, shows that at least TWO HUNDRED MILLION DOLLARS have gone away from this country in that period.</p><P>"What is even more alarming is the fact that eighty per cent. of this huge sum represents the marriages of the past six years only.  This shows how the foolish fashion is growing.  California has had more than her share of the burden to bear.  Seven California girls have taken away from this State alone nearly twenty millions of dollars, or ten per cent. of the entire amount, in exchange for seven titles, most of which are both shabby and shop-worn.</p><P>"Prince Colonna has probably cost, up to date, in the neighborhood of five million dollars; Prince Hatzfeldt, an equal, if not a larger, sum.  Prince Poniatowski came cheaper; a quarter of a million was about his price.  Viscount Deerhurst and Lord Hesketh cost in the neighborhood of two and five million dollars respectively.  The <HI REND="italics">dot</HI>
108.sgm: of Lord Wolseley's California bride was probably something under a million, but with moderate luck Sir Bache-Cunard will get some two millions of old man Carpentier's accumulation of dollars, as his bride, Miss Burke, is the Oakland capitalist's favorite niece, and should come in for a large slice off his estate.</p><P>"The appended list of American girls who have married titles has been carefully verified.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: It speaks for itself, and shows an expenditure of about two hundred millions for some seventy titles, most of which are out of date.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">By the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:<P>"Anglesley.--The Marchioness of Anglesley was Miss Mary Livingston King, daughter of J. P. King of Sandhills, Ga.  She was the widow of the Hon. Henry Wadehouse of England, and was married in 1880 to Henry Paget, fourth Marquis of Anglesley.  The Marchioness of Anglesley took $250,000 to England.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"Agreda.--The Countess Casa de Agreda was the widow of George Lorillard, and took $1,000,000 abroad.</p><P>"Amadei.--The Countess Amadei was Miss Mary Lewis, daughter of T. Lewis of Connecticut.  She carried $100,000 abroad with her.</p><P>"Aylmer.--Lady Aylmer was Miss Ann Reid, the daughter of T. Douglass Reid of New York, and the divorced wife of George Steele of Chicago.  In 1883 she was married to Sir Anthony Percy Fitzgerald Aylmer of Dono deo Castle, Kildare, from whom she was divorced in 1886.  Lady Aylmer took to England a quarter of a million.</p><P>"Bache-Cunard.--Lady Bache-Cunard was Miss Maud Burke of Oakland, Cal.,<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: a niece of Horace Carpentier.  She was married in 1895, and her <HI REND="italics">dot</HI>
108.sgm: may reach $2,000,000 upon her uncle's death.  Her marriage settlement was probably a large one.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">She was engaged to penniless Prince Poniatowski in 1894, but that mercenary wretch jilted her because her uncle refused to "put up" ready cash.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>"Brancaccio.--Princess Salvatore Brancaccio, wife of an Italian prince of the House of Savoy, was Miss Elizabeth Field of New York.  She married twenty-five years ago and carried a fortune of $1,000,000 to her Italian home.</p><P>"Blackwood.--Lady Terence Blackwood was Miss Flora Davis, daughter of John H. Davis of New York.  She was married in 1893 to Lord Terence John Temple Blackwood, second son of the Earl of Dufferin and Ava, the British Ambassador to Paris.  Fortune of $200,000.</p><P>"Butler.--Lady Arthur Butler was Miss Ellen Stager of Chicago, daughter of the late General Anson Stager, United States Army.  She was married in 1887 to Lord James Arthur Wellington Faley Butler, second son of the second Marquis of Ormonde.  Lady Butler carried $1,000,000 to England.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"Castellane.--Countess de Castellane was Miss Anna Gould, daughter of Jay Gould.  In March, 18958 she was married to Count Jean Paul Boniface de Castellane.  Countess de Castellane carried the greatest fortune which has ever gone abroad with a bride.  Her inheritance, most of which will be spent in France, amounted to $15,000,000.</p><P>"Churchill.--Lady Randolph Churchill was Miss Jennie Jerome, daughter of Leonard Jerome of New York.  She was married in 1874 to the Rt. Hon. Lord Randolph Spencer Churchill, third son of the seventh Duke of Marlborough.  Lady Randolph Churchill too $200,000 to England with her.</p><P>"Colonna.--The Princess of Galatio, Colonna, and of Stigliano was Miss Eva Julia Bryant Mackay, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John W. Mackay of New York and London.<ANCHOR ID="n2-3">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: In 1889 she married Prince Ferdinand Colonna.  The princess took abroad with her the income of $5,000,000.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3">It is said that the Princess Colonna is not Mr. Mackay's daughter at all; that she was Mrs. Mackay's child by "a former husband."</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>"Craven.--The Countess of Craven was Miss Cornelia Martin, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Bradley-Martin of New York.  She was married in 1894 to the Earl of Craven.  The Countess of Craven carried $1,000,000 to England.</p><P>"Cumming.--Lady Gordon Cumming was Miss Florence Garner, daughter of William T. Garner.  Lady Gordon Cumming took $1,000,000 to England.</p><P>"Frankenstein.--Countess de Frankenstein was Miss Brewster, daughter of William Cullen Brewster of New York.  She was married in 1894 to Count Henri de Frankenstein, now of Rome, but a Russian by birth.  Her fortune amounted to $400,000.</p><P>"Graham.--Lady Graham of Esk was Miss Eliza Jane <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Burn, the daughter of Charles Burn of New York.  Her fortune was small.  In 1874 she married Sir Robert James Stuart Graham of Esk, Cumberland.</p><P>"Grantley.--Lady Grantley was Miss Katherine McVicker, daughter of William Henry McVicker of New York, and divorced wife of Major Charles Grantley-Norton of the Twenty-third Fusiliers, who is the uncle of her present husband, John Richard Brunsley-Norton, Lord Grantley, whom she married in 1879.</p><P>"Grey-Edgerton.--Lady Grey-Edgerton was Miss May Cuyler of Morristown, N. J.  She was married to Sir Philip Grey-Edgerton in 1892.</p><P>"Hatzfeldt.--Princess Hatzfeldt was Miss Huntington, daughter of Collis P. Huntington.<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: She carried $5,000,000 abroad.  It has almost all been spent.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">The Princess Hatzfeldt was never known as Mr. Huntington's daughter.  She was supposed to have been the daughter of a man named Prentiss.  She was probably "adopted" by Huntington's "second wife," prior to the death of Mrs. Huntington number one.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>"Choiseul.--The Marquise de Choiseul was Miss Claire Coudert, daughter of Charles Coudert of New York.  She was married in 1892 to the Marquis de Choiseul of Paris.  The Marquise de Choiseul took to France $100,000.</p><P>"De ca Cez.--The Duchess De ca Cez was Miss Isabella Singer, daughter of Isaac M. Singer.  She carried abroad with her $2,000,000.</p><P>"De Dino.--The Duchess de Dino was Miss Adele Sampson, daughter of the late Joseph Sampson of New York, and the divorced wife of Frederick Livingston Stewart.  She married, as the second wife, in 1887, Maurice, Marquis de Talleyrand-Perigord, Duke de Dino.  The Duchess de Dino took abroad $3,000,000.  The first wife of the Duke de Dino, whose title is Marquise de <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE "QUEEN" OF SNOB HILL.<LB>"I never read either the dailies or the weeklies, I do not know Mr. Chambliss, and take no interest in the matter they publish; therefore society should treat all such with silence and contempt."--Mrs. Crocker's Interview, <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
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108.sgm:Talleyrand-Perigord, was Miss Curtis of Boston.  She spends most of her time in America.</p><P>"Devonne.--Countess Devonne was Miss Florence Audenriel of Washington.  She was married in 1891 to Count de la Forrest Devonne.  The countess carried $200,000 abroad.</p><P>"Essex.--The Countess of Essex was Miss Adele Grant of New York.  When she married the Earl of Essex, several years ago, she brought with her a fortune of $1,000,000.</p><P>"Halkett.--Baroness Halkett was Miss Sarah Phelps Stokes, daughter of Anson Phelps Stokes of New York.  She was married in 1891 to Baron Hugh Halkett.  Baroness Halkett carried $1,000,000 abroad.</p><P>"Harcourt.--Lady Vernon Harcourt was Miss Elizabeth Motley, daughter of the Hon. J. L. Motley, the historian, and the widow of J. P. Ives.  In 1876 she married the Rt. Hon. Sir William George Granville Venables Vernon Harcourt., M.P.  Lady Harcourt took to England $200,000.</p><P>"Hesketh.--Lady Fermor-Hesketh was Miss Florence Emily Sharon, daughter of the late Senator William Sharon of Nevada.<ANCHOR ID="n2-5">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: She married, in 1880, Sir Thomas George Fermor Fermor-Hesketh, and took to England $2,000,000.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-5">Senator Sharon's contract wife (Sarah Althea Terry) is now in an insane asylum in California.  Old "mammy" Pleasant still lives, also.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>"Hornby.--Lady Edmund Hornby was Miss Emily Augusta Roberts, daughter of John Pratt Roberts of New York.  She carried away $100,000.</p><P>"Kaye.--Lady Lister-Kaye was Miss Natica Yznaga del Valle, daughter of Senor Antonio Yznaga del Valle of Cuba and Louisiana.  She married Sir John Pepy Lister-Kaye in 1881.  Her fortune was $50,000.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"Kortright--Lady Charles Keith Kortright, Miss Martha Ella Richardson, daughter of the late John Richardson of Philadelphia.</p><P>"Lante-Monfeltrio.--The Duchess of Lante-Monfeltrio della Royere was Miss Mathilde Davis, daughter of Thomas Davis of New York.  She took abroad with her $3,000,000.</p><P>"Langier-Villars.--The Countess Langier-Villars was Miss Carola Livingston of New York.  She was married to the count in 1893, and took abroad with her $500,000.</p><P>"Linden.--Countess Eberhard von Linden was Miss Isabella Andrews, daughter of Loring Andrews.  She carried $1,000,000 abroad.</p><P>"Manchester.--Duchess of Manchester was Miss Consuelo Yznaga del Valle.  She married George Victor Drogo Montague, Viscount Mandeville, 1876.  Her husband succeeded to the title of Duke of Manchester just before his death, two years ago.  Her fortune was small.</p><P>"Marlborough.--The Duchess of Marlborough and Princess Mendelheim was Miss Lillian Price, daughter of Joshua Price of Troy, and widow of Louis Hammersley of New York.  She was married in 1888 to George Charles Spencer Churchill, eighth Duke of Marlborough.  The duchess took the income of $7,000,000 to England.</p><P>"Mores.--The Marchioness de Mores was Miss Medora Marie Hoffman, daughter of J. Hoffman, the New York banker.  In 1882 she married Antoine de Manca-Smat de Vallambrosa de Mores and Monte-Maggiore.  She took abroad $5,000,000.</p><P>"Northcote.--The Hon. Mrs. Northcote was Miss Edith Livingston Fish, daughter of Hamilton Fish of New York.  She married Sir Arthur Paget.  Lady Paget took $500,000 to England.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"Pappenheim.--Countess Pappenheim was Miss Wheeler of Philadelphia.  She carried $1,000,000 to Europe upon her marriage with Count Pappenheim.</p><P>"Playfair.--Lady Playfair, wife of Sir Lyon Playfair, was Miss Edith Russell, daughter of S. H. Russell of Boston.</p><P>"Plunkett.--Lady Plunkett, wife of Sir Francis Richard Plunkett, was Miss May Tevis Morgan, daughter of Charles W. Morgan of Philadelphia.  She took $1,500,000 away.</p><P>"Poniatowski.--Princess Poniatowski, wife of Prince Andre Poniatowski, was Miss Beth Sperry of California.<ANCHOR ID="n2-6">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: Her wealth was $250,000.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-6">It is alleged that she is of American Indian extraction.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>"Rochefoucauld.--The Duchess de la Rochefoucauld was Miss Mattie Mitchell, daughter of Senator Mitchell of Oregon.  She was married to the duke in 1891 and took with her $300,000.</p><P>"Rottenburg.--Countess von Rottenburg was Miss Marian Phelps of New York.  Her fortune was small.</p><P>"Selliere.--Baroness de Selliere was Miss O'Brien, daughter of the New York banker and widow of Charles A. Livermore.  She was married in 1892 to Baron Raymond de Selliere, and carried $2,000,000 to France.</p><P>"Sierstoepff.--Countess Sierstoepff was Miss May Knowlton, daughter of Edwin F. Knowlton of Brooklyn.  She was married in 1873 to Count Johannes von Francken Sierstoepff.  The countess carried abroad $1,000,000.</p><P>"Scey-Montbeliard.--Princess Scey-Montbeliard was Miss Winneretta Singer, daughter of the late Isaac M. Singer.  She carried $2,000,000 abroad.</p><P>"Vernon.--Lady Vernon, wife of Lord George William Venable Vernon, was Miss Margaret F. Lawrence, daughter of Francis Lawrence of New York.  Lady Vernon took $1,000,000 to England.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"Wolseley.--Lady Wolseley, wife of Sir Charles Michael Wolseley of Wolseley, Staffordshire, England, was Miss Anita Theresa Murphy,<ANCHOR ID="n2-7">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: daughter of the late Daniel Murphy of San Francisco.  Lady Wolseley took $2,000,000 to England.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-7">She wrote some sweet letters in connection with the scandalous Murphy will contest.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>"Vriere.--Baroness de Vriere was Miss Annie Cutting, daughter of the late Heyward Cutting of New York.  The baroness took abroad $1,000,000."</p><P>What right have those un-Americanized parvenucratic heiresses, some of whom are said to be uncertain as to their genealogy, to parade through this country with those unnatural alien "husbands," purchased with the ill-gotten gains of their supposed fathers or relatives?  What right have they to come back and beg our judges, whom they formerly treated with contempt, to divorce them from the reprobates for whom they deserted their country and forfeited their birthrights?  Why, the Society for the Prevention of Vice should take up all such cases.  I don't mean the "vice preventers" who raided the dance halls of the M. H. de Young Midwinter Fair, and made such a sanctimonious parade of the girls whom they arrested there for indecent behavior, and then never said a blessed word about the owner of the hall and leader of that branch of the cotillion industry known as the "muscle dance," that pious old saint and "salter" of mines--to the ecstasy of trusting English capitalists--Alexander Badlam.</p><P>The man who marries a woman for her money, no matter who he is,--prince, duke, count, or any other individual,--becomes the property of the woman, the same as does the Chinese dancing-girl become the property of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Dupont Street or Tenderloin District opium fiend who buys her outright from the dealer in female flesh.  The Chinaman who goes to the market to purchase a wife always gets more for his money than does the American heiress who goes shopping for a titled husband; for no man, even if he is a Chinaman, is foolish enough to pay out <illus entity="a108-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"It's a cold day when I get left."-- <HI REND="italics">A. Badlam, owner of the muscle dance hall of the Midwinter Fair</HI>
108.sgm:good money for a physical wreck, such as some that the women of the Parvenucracy have paid fabulous prices for.</p><P>If those feeble-minded daughters of railroad magnates and others of the new rich Parvenucracy have a right to bring their purchased husbands over here, then the Chinese merchant who owns property enough to entitle him to a residence certificate has a right to bring his wife over, provided he can prove that he has paid for her.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Those purchased wives and husbands are personal property, and if they are to be brought to this country at all, their owners should be compelled to enter them on their baggage lists as household goods.  For instance, when Miss "Beth" brings the penniless Poniatowski over, her list of articles, necessary for her comfort and <HI REND="italics">pleasure</HI>
108.sgm: on the voyage, should read about as follows:</p><P>One steamer trunk.</p><P>One valise.</p><P>One bundle, done up in a shawl strap, containing fur robes, rain coat, pillow, etc., etc.</p><P>One canary bird, in cage.</p><P>One pug lap dog.</p><P>One prince (in glass case).</p><P>One dozen bottles of perfumery and deodorizers.</p><P>In the name of common sense, will our novel-reading girls never learn that a foreign title amounts to nothing more than the paper that it is written on?  It makes me sick to hear ladies mention some of those good-for-nothing titled sports.  It is enough to nauseate a pig to hear such specimens of broken-down humanity referred to as noblemen.</p><P>If the penniless Poniatowski could only induce his new owner to dress up in good, old-time American style,--the style of her ancestors, so to speak,--I think she would make a great hit on the <HI REND="italics">Boulevard</HI>
108.sgm:, and on Fifth Avenue, or even on our own Market Street promenade, where wildness and wool and papoose baskets are fresh in the memory of men still living in San Francisco.</p><P>Of course, that is all bosh about the Sperrys being ashamed to admit that there is Indian blood in the family.  It is simply absurd to accuse a man of Mr. Crocker's caliber of trying to deny that his wife is of Indian extraction, just because he does not think that it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:sounds nice in "society," or perhaps, because he was fortunate enough to inherit a big slice of Southern Pacific Railroad stock, and feels that he needs a prince brother-in-law in the family to give a proper European flavor to its uncertain standing in foreign "society," in case he should be forced to give up his inherited fortune to help pay the Government what the man who left him the money owed in connection with Mr. Huntington and other octopuses.</p><illus entity="a108-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The style of her ancestors, so to speak.</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:<P>And then again, I am much inclined to the belief that the story to the effect that Mrs. Carolan thinks that Mrs. Crocker's manners entitle her to the leadership of that society which we hear of away up in the Black Hills, where the ladies wear feathers in their heads and pack their papooses about in little baskets, artistically strapped on their backs, has been very much exaggerated.  Even admit the fact that Mrs. Crocker did refuse to receive Mrs. Carolan one day when the latter called on her to say "Good-by," before going East, that, after all, is only circumstantial evidence that Mrs. Carolan has said unkind and cutting things about the "queen" of Nob Hill, or "Snob" Hill, as I believe some thoughtless persons call that part of our city.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>I think that the stately daughter of George M. Pullman, the ex-cabinet-maker-car-builder, who reduced the wages of his employees 33 1/3 per cent. in order to be able to purchase a one hundred thousand dollar bond issued by the disciples of Henry VIII., and payable on presentation to St. Peter at the Universal Bank of Heaven, is too much of a lady to dig up the history of Mrs. Crocker's ancestors.  Besides this, she has too much pride and self-esteem, to say nothing of <HI REND="italics">hauteur</HI>
108.sgm:, to bother her head about such a trifling matter as getting snubbed by a lady whose ideas of politeness would admit of such a bad break as refusing to receive, when she was "not at home to callers."  Even the daughter of the man who precipitated a strike that paralyzed commerce, and made it necessary for the President to declare martial law in Chicago, deserves some consideration.<ANCHOR ID="n2-8">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-8">Mr. Pullman took $100,000 from the wages of his employe&acute;s to pay for a church to be dedicated to himself.  Rather than acknowledge his hypocrisy, and refund the money, he fled, and allowed Anarchist Debs and his lawless strikers to destroy millions of dollars of other people's property.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>The State of California is indebted indirectly to Mrs. Carolan's father for causing General W. H. Dimond to establish, beyond any question or doubt, the fact that he (Dimond) was eminently qualified to command the National Guard of California--whenever there was no fighting to be done.</p><P>General Dimond was about as far out of place in command of the militia at Sacramento during the great strike as is John H. Wise in the office of Collector of the Port at the present time.</p><P>The Chinese Exclusion Act has been a law for several years, and it would be a good thing if properly enforced--by honest officers.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GENERAL W. H. DIMOND,<LB>The Modern <HI REND="italics">Bombastes Furioso</HI>
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108.sgm:<P>Under this act no Chinese can come into the country without a certificate showing him to be a resident and a property-owner returning from a visit to China--except those who can raise ready cash enough to pay their way in through courts of justice--beg pardon--corruption.  I happen to know positively that the repeated assertions of our daily papers, the <HI REND="italics">Examiner, Call, Report</HI>
108.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
108.sgm:, that a great many Chinese come into San Francisco on bogus certificates, are only too true.  I occupied a position in the Pacific Mail Steamship Company that enables me to verify not only the statements that Chinese by the hundreds have been admitted on payment of certain fees to our corrupt officials, but also, that tons upon tons of contraband goods, such as opium and silk, have been smuggled in by certain dishonest officials of the United States Customs service and their colleagues in knavery.</p><P>I don't mean the hard-working inspectors who get three dollars per day for searching the baggage of passengers, and watching, day and night, the officers of ocean steamers in port, and occasionally, for the sake of appearances, arresting some poor quartermaster or engineer for trying to bring a silk handkerchief ashore for some lady friend: I mean such persons as ex-Deputy Collector of Port John T. Fogarty, and his partner Whaley, and such well known local "business men" as arch-smuggler Bernard Reiss, of Newberger, Reiss &amp; Co.</p><P>I was connected with the Pacific Mail service, and Spreckel's line, from 1887 to 1891, and made a great many voyages to Japan and China, Panama, Mexico, Central America, Australia, Honolulu, and other foreign places.</p><P>Apropos of bogus Chinese "certificates of previous residence," I have seen with my own eyes numbers of them.  Chinese passengers <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
108.sgm: to San Francisco have come <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:to me during voyages and asked me to give them a description of the signers of their return certificates which they had purchased in China.  Many of those papers were signed by Mr. Fred Davis, "the Chinatown detective" of the Palace Hotel, and formerly bodyguard to the late Senator Sharon, of divorce court "fame."</p><P>If the following certificates are not sufficient proof that I know what I am talking about, I will, after reproducing these papers, give a few extracts from my private diary, which I have kept for the past twelve years, during which time I booked thousands of full names in connection with many cold, stubborn facts, which I shall not hesitate to lay before an honest law-abiding public.  These certificates will show that the positions that I held undoubtedly brought me into contact with various classes of society during the performance of my regular duties.  Therefore I present them just as they are:</p><P>AGENCY PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY.</p><P>ALEXANDER CENTER, <HI REND="italics">Gen'l Agent</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, March 16, 1892.</p><P><HI REND="italics">To whom this may concern</HI>
108.sgm::</p><P>This is to certify that Mr. W. H. Chambliss entered this company's service as quartermaster of the Steamship <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:, November 9, 1887, and that on November 15, 1889, he was appointed third officer of the Steamship <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:, and served in that capacity until October 29, 1890, when he was transferred to the Steamship <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
108.sgm:, and served as third officer of that vessel until October 21, 1891, when he went East on a leave of absence, since which date he has not returned to duty on account of his health.<ANCHOR ID="n2-9">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-9"><HI REND="italics">There was nothing wrong with my bodily health; but I did not care to endanger the health of my reputation by remaining in the Pacific Mail Company after it fell into the hands of C. P. Huntington</HI>
108.sgm:<P>Mr. Chambliss, during his term of service in the Company, has always performed his duties with entire satisfaction to the Company in every way.<HSEP>(Signed)<HSEP>ALEXANDER CENTER.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY.</p><P>S.S. "CITY OF PEKING."</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, June 7, 1894.</p><P><HI REND="italics">To whom it may concern</HI>
108.sgm::</p><P>This is to certify that Mr. W. H. Chambliss has served as an officer of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, as follows:</p><P>He entered the service as quartermaster of the Steamship <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: (3,019.56 tons), November 9, 1887, and was promoted to the position of third officer of the same vessel November 15, 1889, and served in that capacity until October 29, 1890, when he was transferred to the Steamship <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
108.sgm: (the largest ship in the fleet, 5,019.62 tons), and served as third officer of that vessel until he went East on a leave of absence, since which time he has not returned to duty on account of his preferring to remain East, rather than continue in the service on the Pacific.</p><P>Mr. Chambliss, during his term of service as an officer of this Company, has given entire satisfaction.</p><P>ROBT. R. SEARLE, Senior Captain P.M.S.S. Co.<ANCHOR ID="n2-10">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-10">Captains Searle, Cavarly, Seabury, Clark, Ward, Mortensen, Smith, Friele, Dow, Taylor, Johnston, Russell, Pitts, Passmore, and others whom I have met, were in the Pacific Mail Service many years before Huntington ever had anything to do with the institution.  When Mr. Huntington took charge, as president, he showed his appreciation of the long and faithful services of the old officers by reducing their salaries from $3000 a year to $2400.  And then, as if to add parvenu insult to robber baron injury, Mr. Huntington placed "Lieutenant" Schwerin in the position of "manager," over the heads of Messrs. Center, Rice, Wiggins, Green, Avery, Armstrong, and other practical men who had <HI REND="italics">forgotten</HI>
108.sgm:<P>Commanding S.S.  <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>I LANDED in San Francisco in November, 1887.</p><P>Prior to the morning of my arrival the idea of coming here to stay had never entered my head.</p><P>I had read a great deal about California, and had heard many interesting stories from men who had been here.</p><P>Wonderful tales were told of the ease with which large fortunes were accumulated during the excitement of the mad rush for the gold regions, and later on in the fifties.  I had met several gentlemen in New York, Philadelphia, and New Orleans, who had come out to California in '49, made fortunes in the mines, and then returned to their old homes in the East and South, "to enjoy the fruits of their labors."</p><P>So enthusiastic were those gentlemen in sounding the praises of the "glorious climate of California," that a person would feel tempted, at first, to ask them why they ever left such a delightful country.  An attentive listener to their stories generally could draw his own conclusions without asking any questions.</p><P>They pointed out the vast resources of the State, and spoke of the opportunities that single men, who would do as they had done, would find here to make money enough in a few years with which to return to "The States" and settle down.</p><P>One thing, however, that impressed itself upon my youthful mind as being rather extraordinary, was the fact that those men who had made their fortunes in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:California, and invariably referred to the State in such flattering terms of praise, had not one good word for San Francisco's alleged high society.  They never thought of advising a young man to come to San Francisco to live; but, on the contrary, their advice to men coming West was to return to the "States" when they were ready to get married and settle down.  They declared that very few of the people who remained in San Francisco were of the class that would do to grace New York or New Orleans drawing rooms.</p><P>Married men who were determined to bring their wives out here were advised to steer well clear of San Francisco.  They were told that any place in the State, even Sacramento and Oakland not excepted, would be better for married gentlemen who entertained hopes of raising children of their own.</p><P>According to some of the "wise men of the East," there seemed to be something in the climate of California that was peculiarly antagonistic to the most sacred laws for the government of domestic happiness and modern civilization.</p><P>This remarkable climate was more destructive to family peace and happiness in San Francisco than in any other part of the State.</p><P>But there were others, however, who stoutly maintained that the climate had nothing to do with the peculiar state of affairs in some of the alleged best families of the city, whose social pretensions could not be kept up, even in San Francisco society, except on a financial basis.</p><P>The defenders of the climate declared that it was the nature of those persons to be bad, and that bad blood would be the same in any climate.  And they went on in defense of the climate by mentioning the indisputable fact that they could name a great many families in San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Francisco who were just as nice and refined as any to be found in the East, or South.</p><P>Those descendants of the F.F.V.'s, for instance, who moved West after the close of the Civil War, should not be classed with the arch parvenu element that ascended from Lieddsdorff Street grog shops to Nob Hill mansions at one stride.</p><P>But those of the bad climate theory refused to give in; their arguments being based mainly upon the fact that some of the worst people in the city were supposed to be all right until they were found out.</p><P>So there the case rested.</p><P>However, this difference of learned Eastern opinion concerning the cause of San Francisco's numerous social eruptions amounted to nothing, for, whatever the cause, the effect was a matter of fact that was universally conceded.</p><P>The general opinion of the most liberal-minded men of the East and South, who spoke from actual experience, was that San Francisco's alleged society was in such a state that it would require many generations to purify it so that it would be prudent for a young married couple to undertake to live here for any length of time without losing confidence in one another.  They said that there were more divorces in San Francisco in a given time than in any city in the world of twice its size; some of those getting divorces never taking the precaution of having them recorded.  And in addition to this, they could name many prominent men of wealth who posed as leading members of the alleged best society, and kept second establishments, and raised two families at the same time.</p><P>An instance was related of a judge, surnamed Heydenfelt, who sat on the bench and dealt out justice to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE "KING" OF SNOB HILL.<LB>THE PART THAT MR. W. H. CROCKER AND HIS LITTLE LACKEY, "BIRDIE," PLAYED IN THE "HORSE SHOW,"<LB>AS IT APPEARED FROM A COMMON-SENSE POINT OF VIEW.<LB>"There seems to be a great deal of Crocker and lackey, but very little horse."-- <HI REND="italics">Public Opinion</HI>
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108.sgm:public for a long time.  When this judge's lawful wife died, he thought to consolidate both "families" under one roof, by moving his other wife and illegitimate heirs into the house with his lawful children.  Of course, these latter objected to having their father's mistress take the chair just made vacant by the death of their mother, who, I am told, was a good-hearted woman, and endured for years this shameful treatment of her husband rather than seek a legal separation.  It was then that this "judge" informed his legitimate children that if they were not satisfied with his decision they could leave the house, and appeal to a higher court.  This little incident did not affect the judge's standing in Nob Hill "society," for he, like several other San Francisco "judges," had money, and money is the god of Nob Hill.</p><P>Of course, it would be extremely unjust to condemn the alleged best society of any large city on account of the actions of a few dozen of its prominent members; but older men than I am, and men who have had large experience in the world, hold to the argument that if San Francisco's alleged high society was any part of what it ought to be, to say nothing of what it pretends to be, it would never tolerate such characters as are to be found in its membership.</p><P>Judging from the fact that some persons can do almost anything and still be received into <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
108.sgm: of the wealthiest homes, and also at the gatherings of the alleged ultra "set," any thinking person is bound to come to the conclusion that the majority of the alleged best element is made up of very coarse material.</p><P>When a man can marry his common-law stepmother, and take her into "society," and flaunt her name in the papers as a "belle," it is time to protest.</p><P>It is bad enough for the father of grown-up sons to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:keep a second establishment; but when one of those drunken sons marries the mistress of his father's common law home, the limit of depravity seems to have been stretched beyond comprehension.</p><P>While it is quite true that many of the wealthy men of the city came here without anything, not even common school education,--some of them having been born of parents who never knew what it was to live outside of the humblest sections of New York, or some of the other large cities of the East, and Europe, where people descend to the lowest depth of degradation to be found outside of China,--we would naturally suppose that, with the accumulation of wealth, those persons would make some effort to show a little more appreciation of the good fortune that circumstances, in many instances, have thrust upon them since they came here.  I do not mean those who have made their way in the world by honorable dealings with their fellow-man; I mean those vultures, of the dive-keeper, saloon-keeper, and gambling house-keeper element, who came here to prey upon the generosity and hospitality of the reputable classes of citizens who made California what she is to-day, in spite of the opposition of the S.P.R.R. faction of the Parvenucracy.</p><P>Nobody envies those vultures in the possession of their accidentally and dishonestly acquired wealth, except, perhaps, the commonwealers and strikers, and even those, bad as they are, would hesitate about exchanging places with some of the alleged society lights, if reputations and past records had to be exchanged, and those of the latter published in the papers.</p><P>Nobody wants the Parvenucracy to divide its wealth among the poor, and go back to its original occupations, and it is very ridiculous for it to think so, because all intelligent citizens know that there are too many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:saloon-keepers and hod-carriers and men of that ilk out of employment already, while the city is very much over-supplied with "clairvoyants" and "massage artists" and other females of that class.  It is utterly useless for such creatures to undertake to deceive the public as to what they really were before they struck the streak of good luck that enabled them to go forth and display their ignorance and arrogance to the world.  You can tell them as far as you can see them.  But, after all, if those creatures tried very hard, they could at least master the common rules of politeness, which would give them the appearance of a better breed of swine, if nothing more.  You can never expect to change a pig's real nature, but you can, by shutting him out, prevent him from rooting up your front yard and spoiling your flower beds.</p><P>The Parvenucracy makes itself very conspicuous in large crowds, at the park, at the opera, at the race track, and around the hotels and summer resorts.  The height of its ambition seems to be to make indifferent people believe that it belongs to some "exclusive set."</p><P>More particularly noticeable are the members of the Parvenucracy when they manage to get into social gatherings of really well-bred, cultured, refined society.  They sometimes secure invitations to nice places through the courtesy, or rather, I should say, the carelessness, of some business acquaintance who may be on the ragged edge of a polite set, or is perhaps an optimist.</p><P>Then after they get in they are in perfect agony from the time they enter the house until they leave.  Being conscious that they are out of their element, they feel their position keenly, and, in desperation, they put forth their best efforts to act like the rest of the assemblage.  But in this they only remind you of the Anglo-maniac, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:who, undertaking to impersonate the English dude, only succeeds in imitating his valet.</p><P>I saw a striking instance of this kind at a little gathering in Yokohama, in honor of the Duke of Newcastle.  The duke is a very unpretentious little man, and he is a cripple besides.  One of his legs is several inches shorter than the other.  His man-servant, who accompanies him everywhere, is a typical dude.  A young nincompoop named Blanchard, from San Francisco, who had never seen the duke, succeeded, by some means or other, in getting in, and was standing near the door, when a naval officer greeted him with, "How is the duke this evening?"  The poor fellow, thinking that the officer had mistaken <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
108.sgm: for the duke, began to swell out like a toad, and gasp for breath.  Before he recovered his voice sufficiently to enable him to reply, the officer discovered his mistake, and apologized to him by saying, "Excuse me, old man, I thought you were the duke's boy."</p><P>Speaking of the duke, I wonder if some of our "society belles" remember how they followed him up and down the coast from one summer resort to another during his visit to California in the spring of 1893.  Many of those "belles" will, no doubt, remember the time that they rushed over to San Rafeal, looking their prettiest, when they heard that the duke was going there to see the Fourth of July tennis tournament.  The grounds of the Hotel Rafael and the tennis court certainly presented a beautiful appearance on that occasion, for some of the prettiest girls in San Francisco were there.  Those who have seen as many San Francisco girls as I have, know what that means.</p><P>It was a study that Mr. Wores or Miss Foster should have immortalized on canvas, to watch the expressions on their pretty faces while Basil Wilberforce, the lawn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:tennis fiend, was piloting the duke around the grounds, before the doubles commenced.</p><P>I felt a little sorry for some of the girls whose mothers had persuaded them to go, for it certainly looked pitiable to see so many lovely young women drawn up in a line, as it were, for a man so little favored by nature as the duke to take his pick from.</p><P>When I went over to San Rafael a year later, to see the famous Hardy-Driscoll tennis contest, July 4, 1894, I noticed in the crowd quite a number of people who were there during the summer of '93.  Among those, I took particular notice of a little blond-haired woman, with a complexion that reminds you of sliced peaches and cream.  She sat around the hotel and the tennis court with a languid air, and a forlorn look on her once pretty face, that would have led you to believe that she had lost her last friend.  She was the very personification of unhappiness.  I could hardly believe that she was really the same bright, high-spirited young woman who, only one short year before, went over to San Rafael with the avowed intention of capturing the duke, and, failing in that undertaking, did the next best thing, by taking charge of the champion of the day--for the day only.</p><P>Inspired by curiosity, I asked a mutual acquaintance if he could tell me what ailed the unhappy little creature.</p><P>This acquaintance explained that after the duke went away the poor broken-hearted girl had married the first man that she could get.  "Come over to the club-house," said the acquaintance, "and I will show you what she married."</p><P>We walked over to the club, and there, leaning over the bar, in company with a lot of other feeble-minded nincompoopish dudes, stood the husband, a great, stupid, overgrown, flabby specimen of humanity, with a big <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:vulgar red face, and regular bologna-sausage and sauerkraut cheeks, that almost rested on his disgustingly rounded shoulders.  Altogether, he was a curious looking individual, and he could safely be called, what Alex Kenealy would term, a typical mutton-head.  Just what the little blonde who married this beautiful specimen of manhood should be called, I will let the reader decide.</p><P>These were not by any means the only interesting persons whom I saw at San Rafael.</p><P>Besides Mr. Wilberforce, who always makes people weary when he attempts to talk, and Webster Jones, who is always talking about the quantities of wine consumed at the latest parvenu dinner party,--but never mentions his father-in-law's "business," or past record(?),--and Charley Hoag, who was looking around to see if there was anybody in the crowd whose name he did not have in the <HI REND="italics">Blue Book</HI>
108.sgm:; and "Billy" Barnes, who ruined his prospects of getting the nomination of the "Octopus" party for governor, by publishing his picture in the <HI REND="italics">Wave</HI>
108.sgm:; and Ward McAllister, Jr., whom C. P. Huntington appointed to a fat position, as Pacific Mail attorney, in order to curry favor with a certain leader of some of New York's prominent dancing people, there were some remnants of a crowd of silly parvenus who disgusted everybody of any refinement at the Sea Beach Hotel, Santa Cruz, in June, 1893, by putting "private parlor" signs on the reading room door.</p><P>Among those remnants there was one young woman who made her " <HI REND="italics">debut</HI>
108.sgm:," through the newspapers, three or four years ago, and is still single in spite of the fact that her name appears in the "society," columns of certain papers all the time.  Her father uses her name in the "society" columns as a free advertisement for his profession.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Corporal.<HSEP>General, U.S.A</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>W. H. L. BARNES, "GENERAL U.S. ARMY."</p><P>As he was and as he imagines he was.-- <HI REND="italics">Deduced from the history of the Seventh New York</HI>
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108.sgm:<P>Occasionally her picture comes out (this costs money) accompanied with a lot of taffy about her beauty, which is, in fact, purely imaginary.  Mr. Anthony E. Kaeser, a young society man from East Oakland, in speaking of the young woman's mouth, remarked that had it been made any larger, her father, who is a "prominent" doctor, would have been obliged to set her ears further back in order to permit of the additional enlargement.</p><P>Some men have an aversion for big-mouthed women; but the young naval lieutenant, who will be away at sea a good portion of his married life, could scarcely fail to congratulate himself on that score, if he really intends to marry her at all.</p><P>Apropos of the "prominent" doctor, it is a well known fact that he has acquired nearly all of his "prominence" through the fake society reporters whom he hires to write up the doings of his wife and daughter.</p><P>The rest of his "popularity" he gained by endorsing the "new discoveries" of patent-medicine men and corn doctors.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>HAVING already stated the fact that I came to San Francisco about seven years ago, it might, perhaps, be a good idea to let the reader know how I got here.</p><P>I did not come out on one of those railroad passes especially designed for the accommodation of senators and congressmen and such other politicians as may be willing to take pay for voting against any and all propositions to compel Messrs. Huntington, Crocker, and others to pay that seventy million dollar debt that the Southern Pacific Company owes the United States.</p><P>I did not beat my way out, either, but I have often wondered whether or not the public ever stops in the middle of a political campaign to consider seriously which one of the three individuals is the worst rascal: the man without money or employment, commonly called the tramp, who may be in search of honest work when he steals a ride on the brake of a freight car; the smooth-tongued "gentleman" who is elected to office on his solemn promise to vote honestly, and then, as soon as he is elected, shows his true colors by voting in the opposite direction; or the railroad magnate, who issues passes to the dishonest office holder, as part payment, on account, for acting dishonorably with his constituents.</p><P>The dishonest office holder who accepts the hospitality of railroad companies, and rides free while he is in office, is a worse thief a hundred times over than the poor tramp, because he robs the honest people who put him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:into office, while the tramp only steals a ride from a gigantic corporation of freebooters.</p><P>Apropos of the author, I am an American citizen.  I was born in Claiborne County, Miss., on the 15th of November, 1865.  My ancestors on both sides of the house were among the earliest settlers of Claiborne and Jefferson Counties, they having gone there, from Virginia, about the year 1790.  They did not go there empty-handed, but carried with them their slaves and mules, and developed the agricultural resources of the greatest cotton State in the Union, incidentally killing off the troublesome Indians as they went along.</p><P>For full particulars concerning my ancestors and relatives after they went to Mississippi, see the history of that State, and note the names of the Harpes, Dardens, Calhouns, Campbells, Whitneys, Comptons, Valentines, Hubbards, Hastings, Smiths, Bolles, Georges, Chaineys, Corbins, Martins, and Zollicoffers.</p><P>Many of my relations reside in Virginia and the Carolinas.  The early part of my life was spent on what was left (after Grant got through) of the old cotton plantation, with my parents, brothers, and sister.</p><P>My father, who in 1861 was classed as one of the solid financial men of the South, was fifty years old at the close of the war.  Finding himself at that age with a large family, and not a dollar in the world,--his entire estate having been swept away by the fall of the Confederacy as if by a cyclone,--he adopted that which he considered the wisest course for him to pursue during the few remaining years of his life: He became a country school teacher, and devoted his time to the instruction of the children of his friends and neighbors.  He never took his own children to his school; we had a nice little private school at home, with mother for teacher.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>At the age of ten I was sent to the little country school of Mrs. Elizabeth Pattison Montgomery, near the spot where the town of Martin, Miss., now stands.</p><P>My father died when I was fourteen, at which time I was still attending Mrs. Montgomery's school.</p><P>My father was buried in the private burying plot in the cedar grove in front of the old family residence of his father and mother.</p><P>Of the many good things that his old friends had to say on the occasion of the funeral, I shall never forget the words of Mr. J. D. Phillip: "The worst thing that I ever knew him to do was to swear; and he commenced that when he heard of the election of Abraham Lincoln.  He was a careful observer, and he foresaw the terrible destruction that the ascendency of fanaticism was bound to bring to American peace and happiness."</p><P>Having a pretty good idea of my mother's limited income, and having been brought up with the old reliable American idea that all legitimate labor is honorable, I decided to do something for myself.</p><P>An opportunity presented itself in this way:</p><P>In the autumn of 1881 I read an advertisement in the New York <HI REND="italics">Weekly Sun</HI>
108.sgm:, setting forth the fact that the National Publishing Company of Philadelphia required the services of a few agents to procure subscribers for a publication entitled "The Life of President Garfield."</p><P>I dispatched a letter to the publishers informing them that my services were at their disposal provided they would give me the agency for Claiborne County.  By return mail I received a satisfactory letter, and later a prospectus of the book and a package of orders for subscriptions.</p><P>Upon speaking to a schoolmate of my intentions I was laughed at; but that did not discourage me.  Acting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:upon a piece of quiet advice from headquarters, I called upon the most influential gentleman in the county, Colonel James S. Mason, editor and proprietor of the <HI REND="italics">Southern Reveille</HI>
108.sgm:, Port Gibson, Miss.  The result of this call was the first newspaper notice that I ever received.  This notice, setting forth the fact that I was the duly appointed agent for the National Publishing Company, and that the book was a splendid work, and winding up with the editor's "trust that the sprightly boy who will call upon you may be patronized to encourage him," had an affect upon the citizens of my native county that opened my eyes concerning the power of the press.</p><P>From that time on my success as a book agent was assured.</p><P>I soon became anxious to extend my territory beyond the county lines, and with that object in view I wrote to headquarters, and received a letter telling me to "go right ahead wherever I could sell books fastest."  I <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
108.sgm: "go ahead," and what that section did not know of the life of our lamented president by the following Fourth of July was hardly worth knowing.</p><P>Just how many books I would have sold I can only judge from the fact that I secured four orders from every five heads of families that I called upon.  All that I had to do was to say that the <HI REND="italics">Reveille</HI>
108.sgm: endorsed the book, and out would come $2.50.</p><P>In the midst of my success I received a set-back.  Having bought a small forty-one caliber pistol, I proceeded to learn how to shoot, and, in so-doing, shot myself.  The ball entered my right calf, and ranging downward lodged near the ankle joint, where it remained--thanks to the surgical skill of Dr. John W. Barber of Port Gibson--for ten years.  I had the ball extracted by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Dr. McNutt in San Francisco, in 1892, after having carried it around the world.</p><P>The accidental wounding of myself upset my plans completely.  It was a long time before I could walk without great pain; but I was young then, and in due time the ball became encysted, and I started out again on new lines.  I went to Philadelphia and became a reporter on the staff of the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
108.sgm:, under City Editor Julius Chambers.  Mr. Chambers is at present editor of the New York <HI REND="italics">Recorder</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>While in the capacity of reporter I heard of the United States Naval Training Squadron, which at that time was offering special inducements to boys of my age who desired to "see foreign countries and become officers."</p><P>After thinking the matter over after a fashion, I decided to abandon the position of reporter and go into the schoolships, and learn navigation and seamanship.</p><P>On the Fourth of July, 1886, I found myself on board the United I had ship <HI REND="italics">Minnesota</HI>
108.sgm:, at New York, along with about two hundred other boys.  I had been in the Naval Training Squadron nearly two years then; had passed through the regular courses of training on the <HI REND="italics">New Hampshire</HI>
108.sgm:, at Newport, R.I., and on board the cruising schoolship <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
108.sgm:, in which latter vessel I had served thirteen months, during which time a cruise had been made to Europe and return, and also a six months' cruise to the West Indies and return.</p><P>To some good, honest citizens it may seem strange that I should in this volume give detailed accounts of the doings of certain officers of the United States Navy, whose acquaintance I made during the period of three years and a quarter that I spent in the service of our country.</p><P>In explanation I wish to say that the officers herein <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:described are well known in this country; some of them having actually married San Francisco and New York society girls.  Besides this, our naval officers are received into the best society the world over.  They are, in fact, our nearest approach to titled aristocracy.  To this latter reason, principally, is due the fact that they are always in demand in the better elements of society, as well as at the gatherings, public and private, of our coarse, vulgar, un-Americanized Parvenucracy.  Therefore, I think it would be a serious mistake on my part to omit some information that I possess concerning certain officers.  With a few exceptions, the officers of our navy are well educated, well-bred, courteous men; good-hearted, whole-souled, and honorable to a degree that is truly refreshing to a person who has traveled among the Parvenucracy.  I take pleasure in saying that our naval officers are gentlemen as a rule, and it is with a feeling of regret that I admit that there are some painful exceptions to this truly good rule.</p><P>To know a man well, it is necessary to have seen him under a great variety of circumstances.  What I know about these gentlemen I could never have learned at all had I not sailed on the same ships with them.  I do not wish to be misunderstood, so I will say, right here, that I consider the worst naval officers whom I shall undertake to describe several degrees higher in the social scale than the shoddyites who run after them, dine them, wine them, cart them around the city,--when they are sober enough and will condescend to go,--and offer them their daughters, when there are no princes, lords, dukes, counts, or other drunken, blear-eyed, deformed, broken-down, foreign fortune-hunting sports in the country.  When any of these latter are here the naval officers are not "in it."</p><P>I am obliged to admit the deplorable fact that, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:particularly among the younger officers, from the ensigns of the senior grade on down through the ranks of ensigns of the junior grade, and cadets on their first cruises, there are to be found a few of the sorriest specimens of the true American gentleman that I have ever seen.</p><P>While I am loath to admit that some of these young fellows seem to have never in their lives possessed one iota of the requisite instinctiveness of anything above upstarts, and that they are getting worse and worse all the time, I am thankful that my experience in the schoolships of the service enables me to point out the causes that render such a state of affairs possible.</p><P>The older officers, from the admirals and commodores on down to the lieutenants, deplore the fact that the positions which they have filled with such credit to themselves and their country must in time be occupied by such dudes as now get into Annapolis.  But these estimable old veterans are powerless to better the coming conditions.  The politicians run things at Annapolis, and those whom they send there, to suit themselves, regardless of the future welfare of the American navy, the country, or anything else, except the feathering of their own nests.</p><P>First and foremost of all, the present system of officering the navy is wrong.  I will prove the assertion by facts: The cadets are appointed to the Annapolis Naval Academy by the congressmen from their respective districts, as the vacancies at Annapolis occur.  These vacancies do not often occur, and when they get into the hands of the congressmen they come high.  The congressmen, having had their "legs pulled" during the campaign by all the political bosses in their respective districts, have got to devise all sorts of schemes in order to exist until they are called upon by the monopolists <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:after election; consequently they cannot afford to appoint a cadet to Annapolis on his merits alone.  The applicant whose father offers the highest bid secures the the appointment, regardless of merit, good breeding, common sense, or anything else that a gentleman should possess.  The Parvenucracy, ever on the alert for such opportunities to place its sons in positions which should be occupied by sons of representative citizens only, is filling the navy with nincompoops.  At Annapolis the old adage, "You must learn to obey before you can learn to command," is rapidly becoming obsolete; therefore, it is no wonder that some of our officers are regular Anglo-maniacs.  Of course the reader remembers the story of Captain Marryat's midshipman, who, while giving orders from a book, gave the command to let go the anchor while tacking ship in mid-ocean, and then, when called to account for it by the captain, had the impudence to say that the wind blew the page over.  We are getting lots of Midshipmen Easys in our service under the present system.  The sons of the Parvenucracy make very good book sailors, that is, in calm weather.</p><P>Some years ago the politicians around Washington City set up a great howl that it was "too hard on the poor cadets to go out to sea before the masts for a few months for practice each year"; and thus they managed to get that excellent old rule practically abolished.  If a cadet is too delicate to go through with the course of training that the seaman who does the fighting on a man-of-war has to go through, how is that cadet ever to become a good officer?  The politicians do not seem to take this into consideration at all.</p><P>But I am devoting too much space to people who occupy only an insignificant place in the kind of society that I am dealing with, so I will proceed with my story of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:trip around the world on the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm:, and tell a few of the things that I recorded in my diary about Commander Jewell, "Humpty Dumpty" Bicknell, "Missionary" Wadham, "Papa" Galloway, "Spunky" Walling, "Count" Fechteler, "Billy" Poundstone, "Boozer" Loomis, "Dude" Hoggett, Mr. Rodman, Dr. Hawke, Paymaster Smith, and others.</p><P>Having entered the Naval Training Squadron at the age of eighteen, to take the regular course to enable me to become an officer in the United States Merchant Marine Service, I had signed the articles of enlistment to serve in the navy during minority.</p><P>Although my course of training was practically complete at the time of which I speak, I still had more than a year to serve.</p><P>After the boys who enter the schoolships as I did finish the course on those vessels, it is customary to place them on board regular men-of-war to serve out the remainder of their enlistments.</p><P>The United States corvette <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: was at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, fitting out for a three years' cruise to China and Japan.  Although I knew that my enlistment would expire long before the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: returned to the United States, I was delighted when I saw my name on the list of seventy-four who had been picked from the Training Squadron to man her for the expedition.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>ON the second day of September, 1886, the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm:, fully equipped for the long cruise, cast off her lines from the dock at the Navy Yard, and swung out into the East River.</p><P>After a good deal of backing and filling as we picked our way through the great fleet of ferryboats, steamers, tugs, and every kind of craft imaginable, we passed under the great Brooklyn Bridge, and steamed on down past Castle Garden.</p><P>Passing the famous Bartholdi Statue of Liberty, on Bedloe's Island, on our starboard hand, we went ahead full speed down the Bay and through the Narrows.</p><P>As we steamed on out toward Sandy Hook, we passed the big Guion Line steamer <HI REND="italics">Alaska</HI>
108.sgm:, lying on the sandbar with her bow high and dry up out of the water.  The <HI REND="italics">Alaska</HI>
108.sgm:, bound for Liverpool with a large list of passengers, had run aground in trying to get out to sea during a dense fog.  It was at high tide when she struck, and as the water ebbed away she remained hard and fast.  A perfect swarm of tugboats hovered around her, taking her passengers off and lightening her, so that she could be floated with the next tide.  This was accomplished eventually, as we saw by the papers after we arrived on the other side of the Atlantic, a month later.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: could not begin to carry coal enough to steam all the way across the Atlantic, so, as soon as we were clear of the pilot grounds, Commander Theodore F. Jewell ordered the chief engineer to haul fires and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:lower the smokestack, and send all the black squad--the firemen and coal heavers--on deck to assist the seamen.</p><P>Favored with a fair breeze from the westward, we made sail to top-gallant sails, and shaped our course for the Azores, or Western Islands.</p><P>Crossing the Atlantic Ocean under canvas is rather slow work, at best, for any man-of-war.  Having an idle propeller to drag through the water, our progress was so retarded that the best speed we could make was about ten knots an hour; and we could not do that with anything short of a moderate gale on the quarter.  This, of course, we were not so fortunate as to have all the time.  We had to stop over thirty times during the voyage to take deep sea soundings.  These soundings made no end of trouble, and on one occasion came very near causing a duel between two of our most promising young officers.</p><P>Some old whaling captain had reported a sunken rock somewhere off the coast of the Azores, and the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: was ordered to look it up on her way to the Mediterranean.</p><P>Lieutenant A. V. Wadham, the navigater,<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: had charge of the sounding apparatus, and he detailed a regular crew to man it, consisting of Ensign Hoggett, Quartermaster Billy Thompson, Seamen Apprentices Jarrett, Schipperus, and myself.  The deep sea sounding machine consisted of a wheel or drum two feet in diameter and six inches wide.  Around this drum was wound several thousand fathoms of very fine copper wire.  To the end of the wire there was attached a piece of brass pipe about a foot long and two inches in diameter, fitted with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:valve in the lower end so that it would bring up specimens of sand or mud or anything soft that it might strike on the bottom.  This piece of pipe was called a cup.  A sixty pound shot with a hole through it was used for a sinker.  The cup, which was made to fit the hole in the shot, was fitted with a spring, which held the two together until they struck the bottom, when the shot became <illus entity="a108-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>U.S.S.  <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm:detached and remained on the bottom, leaving the cup free to be hauled up.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">The navigating officer of a man-of-war ranks next below the first lieutenant.  The spelling of his title with an "e" instead of an "o" in the last syllable is a naval technicality, not mentioned in Webster.  Some navigaters are <HI REND="italics">not navigators</HI>
108.sgm:<P>The sounding apparatus was placed on the end of the bridge extending out over the starboard side of the ship, and it was fitted with indicators, which resembled the face of a clock, to tally the number of fathoms of wire out.  It was also supplied with a little steam engine to reel up the wire.</p><P>Like everything else on board a man-of-war, there was a lot of ceremony and "red tape" attached to the sounding machine.</p><P>Lieutenant Wadham would come up on the bridge, tell the officer of the deck to stop the ship, and have the boatswain's mate sing out for the "sounding gang"; then the fun would commence.</p><P>Jarrett and Schipperus would go down to the shot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:locker and bring up a shot; old Billy Thompson would attach the cup and fit the shot on, and report, "All ready, sir," to Mr. Wadham, who would then give the order to "Heave!" which meant to lower the shot down into the water.  My duty in the performance was to look after the indicator and keep tally of the fathoms of wire out; one turn of the drum was a fathom.  I was required to sing out "Mark!" at every tenth fathom, so that Mr. Hoggett could keep tally also.  If our figures did not agree with the indicator when the job was finished, Mr. Wadham generally told us what he thought of us.  He never called us anything worse than "land-lubbers," or "hay-makers," however, because he was too "religious" to call us anything that would reflect on our ancestors.</p><P>Mr. Wadham never used any of those harsh descriptive adjectives by which the conversation of nearly all sailors is distinguishable, but I have a strong suspicion that he frequently thought them.</p><P>Sometimes the cup, together with a thousand or so fathoms of wire, would remain on the bottom to keep company with the shot; then we would catch the devil, so to speak.  One day we tried to get a sounding when there was a heavy sea on.  We could get the bottom without much difficulty, and could tell how many fathoms were out, but getting the cup back was where the trouble came in.  The ship would drift over the wire, and a rough place in the copper on the bottom of the ship would cause it to break off, and down would go the cup.  Then we would reel in what was left of the wire, get the kinks out of it, put on another cup, and try it again.</p><P>After losing about six cups and as many thousand fathoms of wire, Mr. Wadham decided that Thompson was to blame for it all, and I know that he was sorry he was "too religious" to swear at him.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"Thompson," said Mr. Wadham, "if you lose another cup you had better get hold of the end of the wire and go down with it, for you'll be better off down there in Davy Jones' locker than on board this ship."</p><P>"Aye, aye, sir," said old Thompson, as he lowered the seventh cup over the side.  The words were hardly out of his mouth when the wire, which had got a kink in it during the excitement, snapped off, and away went the cup.</p><P>In obedience to the command of his superior officer, Thompson started to dive overboard, but Mr. Wadham countermanded his order by telling Billy to "Belay!"</p><P>Mr. Wadham then went aft and reported to Captain Jewell that it was too rough to take soundings.  "I think it's a d--d nice time for you to discover it, after losing seven cups," said the old man, as he sung out to the quartermaster to "put her on her course"; "those cups cost the Government forty dollars apiece."</p><P>The captain then gave standing orders to the chief engineer to get up steam enough to give the ship steerage way whenever there was any sounding to be done.</p><P>Mr. Wadham got excited one day, and in trying to keep the ship from drifting over the wire, he gave the signals "go ahead," "stop," "back," "go astern," etc., in such rapid succession that the engine-room bell was kept going like an alarm clock.</p><P>The engineer on watch stood it until patience ceased to be a virtue with him, then he yelled out up through the ventilator, "What in hell's the matter up there?"</p><P>Young Lippincott, whose duty it was to pass the word along, passed it up to Mr. Wadham just as he got it from the engineer.</p><P>"How dare you tell me anything like that?" yelled Mr. Wadham; and he ordered Lippincott to go to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:"mast," while he sent for Mr. Bicknell, the first lieutenant.  Mr. Bicknell, whom all the boys called "Humpty Dumpty" on account of his small stature, and "Burnsides" came up, and Mr. Wadham explained to him that Lippincott had asked him "What in the hell was the matter with him?"  Then Lippincott explained that he had merely passed along the word as he had got it from the engineer.  That acquitted Lippincott, and he came up forward and told his friends that Mr. Wadham was crazy.</p><P>Then Mr. Bicknell walked aft and said: "Mr. Fechteler, what the devil do you suppose is the matter with Mr. Wadham?"  "I'll be d--d if I know," replied Mr. Fechteler, as he signaled to the boatswain's mate to "pipe mess gear."</p><P>Mr. Wadham made several other bad breaks which rendered him very unpopular with the boys, right from the start.  Among other things, he wanted us to read the Bible and sing psalms during our watch below, and he even volunteered to lead us in prayer; but these were not popular studies, for we remembered distinctly that nothing of the kind was included in the articles of enlistment.  So, from that time on, Mr. Wadham became known as the "missionary officer."</p><P>One day he came on deck, called out the "sounding gang," stopped the ship, and proceeded to take a sounding without reporting to the officer of the deck.  Lieutenant B. F. Walling was on watch, and he very promptly took Mr. Wadham to task for usurping his authority, and he did it in a way to make the navigater remember it.</p><P>Going forward to where the sounding gang was at work, he addressed Mr. Wadham about as follows:</p><P>"What do you mean, sir, by taking charge without reporting to the officer of the deck?"</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"I am navigater of this ship," replied Mr. Wadham, "and I have a right to stop her whenever I feel like it."</p><P>"I don't care a d--n who you are, or what you have a right to do!" said Mr. Walling; "when I am officer of the deck I want you to respect me as such, and if you don't know how to respect the officer of the deck, I'll teach you."</p><P>By this time all the watch on deck had crowded around, and some of the boys had roused out the watch below to see the fun, for there was every prospect of a set-to.  The man-of-war's-man is a sport, in his way, and nothing suits him better than a fight.  When he can't get into a fight himself, his next greatest pleasure is in seeing others get battered up.  So a fistic encounter between two officers was not to be missed under any consideration.  For several minutes the two lieutenants made the air blue with choice nautical language that would hardly do to repeat in this book.  It looked as if one was afraid to fight and the other dared not.  At last Mr. Walling got tired of the row, and, suggesting to the navigater the advisability of going to a certain warm place, the name of which was quite familiar to the boys, he went aft and began to pace up and down the poop deck, muttering something about the inaptitude of "d--d missionaries" for sea service.</p><P>The navigater dismissed the sounding gang, went aft to the cabin, and reported Mr. Walling to the captain.  He told the "old man" that Mr. Walling had been using abusive and vulgar language to him and insulting him in the presence of the crew.  This was all summed up as "conduct unbecoming to an officer and a gentleman."</p><P>Captain Jewell rang for his orderly, and sent word up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:to Mr. Walling to have his relief called and report to him at once.</p><P>It so happened that the gentleman who was to relieve Mr. Walling was no other than Lieutenant A. F. Fechteler, who is now the son-in-law of our esteemed townsman, United States District Judge W. W. Morrow of San Francisco.</p><P>Mr. Fechteler was enjoying a quiet afternoon snooze when the orderly woke him up and informed him of what had happened, and he made use of some pretty strong language about the two gentlemen whose differences had caused him to be so unceremoniously robbed of his beauty sleep.  Possibly he was in the middle of a beautiful dream of the day when he would come to San Francisco and capture one of the prettiest girls who ever graced the halls of the Palace Hotel.  At any rate, while putting on his clothes he expressed the opinion that Mr. Walling ought to have had better sense than to pick a row with Mr. Wadham, and that the latter was a "cussed fool" for reporting him.</p><P>In due time Mr. Fechteler went on deck and relieved Mr. Walling, and that gentleman went down to the cabin and reported himself to the captain.</p><P>After informing Mr. Walling of the charges which had been preferred against him by the navigater, Captain Jewell asked him what he had to say for himself.  In a very few words Mr. Walling told the captain that the navigater had stopped the ship and taken charge without notifying the officer of the deck, and that he, as officer of the deck, had asked the navigater what he meant by it, and the navigater had insulted him and called him names in the presence of the crew.</p><P>Under the law for the government of the United States Navy, Captain Jewell could have ordered both Walling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A NAVAL BATTLE IN TIME OF PEACE.<LB>The Lieutenant Walling-Wadham Sunday morning Set-to on the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
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108.sgm:and Wadham under arrest and recommended them for a court-martial; but he did not do anything of the kind.  As captain of the ship with orders from the Navy Department to proceed on out to the Asiatic station, the old man did not consider it necessary to have such little misunderstandings recorded in the log book.  So he decided to settle the case in a way that proved satisfactory to everybody, and especially to all the deck officers.</p><P>He issued a standing order to the effect that when the navigater had any deep sea sounding to do, he should relieve the officer of the deck and look out for the ship himself while taking his soundings.  As it frequently took an hour, and sometimes two or three hours, to get a sounding, this would give the deck officer a chance to go below and take a nap.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>The sunken rock that we were sounding for was considered so dangerous to navigation that it was deemed advisable to use great caution in approaching it.</p><P>The old whaling captain who reported it had given the position, but the Bureau of Navigation at Washington wanted it verified by Mr. Wadham before placing it on the charts; hence the great care that we used in "feeling our way along."  One beautiful morning, when there was scarcely a ripple on the water, the navigater took his observations of the sun, and reported to the captain that we were just ten miles from the dreaded rock.  Extra lookouts were detailed, and a quartermaster was sent aloft with a long glass to keep a sharp lookout for breakers.  The speed of the ship was reduced to barely steerage way.</p><P>At last we were directly over the dangerous place.  The drift lead with fifty fathoms of line out had been kept over the quarter all the morning with a picked man tending it, to report as soon as it touched bottom.  In addition to this, to make it doubly safe, the hand lead was kept going from the fore chains all the time.  All hands, from the captain to the quarter gunner's "chicken," were on deck, looking over the bows and the sides of the ship.</p><P>The men at the leads kept reporting "no bottom," until Mr. Wadham gave the signal to stop.  Surely he could not have made any mistake about the position!  The captain and "Humpty Dumpty" had taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:observations, too, and they said that the navigater's figures were correct.</p><P>We then steamed around on a circular course of a mile, and described a hollow square, with the lead going all the time; but still "no bottom" at fifty fathoms.  Then we stopped again, and let out seventy-five fathoms, and then a hundred fathoms with the same results.  "Very, very strange," said the navigater; and everyone else was of the same opinion.</p><P>"Try a deep-sea sounding," said the captain.</p><P>The shot and cup were soon adjusted, and Billy Thompson reported "All ready."</p><P>"Heave!" said the navigater, and the shot was lowered into the water, and the drum began to reel off wire.</p><P>"Stand by to stop her on short notice," said Mr. Wadham, as the one hundred fathom mark was reached.  The drum kept revolving,--one hundred, two hundred, three hundred fathoms.  "What!  What!" exclaimed the navigater; four hundred, five hundred.  "Great Heavens! no bottom yet?" yelled the captain.  Soon the indicator registered one thousand fathoms, then fifteen hundred, two thousand.  It was now impossible to stop the wire without breaking it, so we just let her rip.</p><P>The three thousand fathom mark went out, and it began to look as if there was not enough wire on board to reach "the sunken rock that made it so perilous for ships sailing on the Atlantic."  When the thirty-three hundred fathom mark was reached, Billy Thompson remarked that it was the deepest sounding that we had struck.  Just then the wire slackened, and the reel was stopped as the indicator registered the deepest water that we found on the whole expedition--335&deg; fathoms, equal to nearly four English miles.</p><P>Thoroughly satisfied that American commerce was in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:no immediate danger from the sunken rock, we abandoned deep sea sounding on the Atlantic, and shaped our course for the Straits of Gibraltar.</p><P>Up to that time we had experienced very little trouble with the weather, and it began to look as if we were to have an exceptionally fine weather voyage.  But old Neptune had had his weather eye on somebody on board, and he came down upon us when we were least expecting him.  I think Mr. Wadham was the "Jonah."</p><P>During the mid-watch one night, while we were going along under topsails and courses, with the wind abeam, making about nine knots, the quartermaster noticed an ugly looking cloud up to windward.  Lieutenant Fechteler was officer of the deck, and he gave the order to "reef the foretopsail."</p><P>The halliards were lowered away and the weather braces were rounded in.  As the forecastlemen and foretopmen went aloft we were greeted with a shower of hail.  The main topmen were sent aloft to lend a hand in reefing the sail, leaving only the afterguards on deck.  While in this predicament we were struck by a terrific squall that threw the ship almost on her beam's ends.</p><P>Mr. Fechteler ordered the quartermaster to "put the helm bar hard up, and let her go off," but, with the main sail and main topsail set and the foretopsail lowered, and the wind abeam, she of course refused to go off, and instead, rolled over until the entire lee rail was under water.</p><P>It looked as if she would never right herself again.  All hands were called on deck to "save ship."  Captain Jewell having been thrown clean out of his bunk, as the ship keeled over, rushed out on deck and took charge.  The first thing that he did was to order the main sail clewed up.  As soon as this was accomplished she <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:righted herself, and went off before the wind.  The storm moderated after the squall, and by sunrise we were running before a strong breeze with all sail set.</p><P>On the evening of October 3 we sighted Cape St. Vincent light, on the coast of Portugal.  This was the first land that we had seen since we sailed from New York.</p><P>Early on the morning of the 4th we came to anchor in the harbor of Gibraltar, distance from New York 3526 miles.  I shall never forget my first impression of this great British stronghold.  Sailors just call it "The Rock."  The great black mass, rising up almost perpendicularly out of the sea, inspires one at first sight with a feeling of awe.  The more you look at it, the more thoroughly convinced do you become that it is impregnable.</p><P>This historical stronghold is called the "key to the Mediterranean."  The famous Krupp guns there are too well known to the readers of the monthly magazines and Sunday papers for me to perpetrate a lengthy description of them here.  The City of Gibraltar, standing on the side of the hill, reminds one of Vicksburg, Miss., and it also resembles Hong Kong, China.</p><P>On the 9th of October we sailed from Gilbraltar, and on the 15th we arrived in Valletta, Island of Malta.  This island belongs to England, and the harbor of Valletta is the rendezvous of the British fleet in the Mediterranean.</p><P>There are many interesting things in Valletta:  The catacombs and underground passages built by the Knights of Malta are similar, in a smaller way, to those of Rome.  The historical Cathedral of St. John's is said to have had gates of solid gold, and Napoleon Bonaparte is accused of having taken them away along with other golden fixtures.</p><P>I wanted to buy a Maltese cat to bring home to my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:mother, but was informed that the only one on the island was owned by the American consul, who had brought it there from the States.  This breed of cats has become extinct in its native country.</p><P>We sailed from Malta on the 21st of October.  A very extraordinary thing occurred on sailing day.  The officers gave a little party on board in the afternoon, and quite a number of ladies and gentlemen from Valletta attended.  When the party broke up, Paymaster Smith went ashore in a gondola with some of the ladies, one of whom, I believe, was a "friend" of Captain Jewell's.  Something had evidently happened that displeased the captain, for no sooner had the guests left the ship than he gave the order to "unmoor ship and get under way."  The lines were cast off, and the ship was soon steaming out of the harbor.  A large number of boats and a big English steamer, coming into port, blocked the narrow entrance to the harbor so that we had to stop a few minutes.  The paymaster took advantage of the opportunity by coming off in a small boat.  He managed to get hold of the Jacob's ladder, and crawled up over the stern just as the signal was given to "go ahead, full speed."  Young Wade, the mail orderly, who had been sent ashore on duty, was not so fortunate.  He got left in Malta.</p><P>The day after sailing two stowaways were found in the coal bunkers.  They were brought on deck, where they were identified as soldiers of a Royal Scottish Highland regiment stationed at Malta.  They had come on board as visitors, and, on learning that we were going to Egypt, had decided to accompany us.  When we arrived at Port Said, Egypt, on the 26th of October, we found that we would have to wait there several days before we could get through the Suez Canal.</p><P>This delay enabled Mail Orderly Wade to overhaul <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NEARLY MISSED HIS PASSAGE.<LB>Paymaster Smith, U.S.N., returning aboard the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
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108.sgm:us; he having been sent on from Malta on one of the Peninsular and Oriental steamers, which happened to call at Valletta soon after we sailed.</p><P>Egypt is a very low-lying country.  The land is only a few feet above the level of the sea.  From the deck of the ship approaching the coast, the trees and houses and even people and animals are visible on shore before any land can be seen.  Port Said is a very dull place.  It is only a coaling station, with a few stores which have been built there since the canal was opened.</p><P>After remaining at Port Said five days, we got away on the 31st of October, and proceeded on our way through the canal.  Being a man-of-war, we had to stop and haul into the locks fully a dozen times to let other steamers pass before we got through.  At that time ships were not allowed to go through the canal at night.</p><P>We reached Ismailia about sunset, where we hauled into the lock and tied up for the night.</p><P>After we got the ship made fast nearly everybody on board went in swimming in the canal.</p><P>The Khedive of Egypt has a beautiful Swiss cottage near the canal at Ismailia, where he goes to recuperate after his periodical jag.</p><P>At daylight on the morning of November 1st we got away from Ismailia, and proceeded on through the canal.  We saw, walking along the bank of the canal, our two Scottish Highlanders who stowed away at Malta.  Captain Jewell had put them off the ship at Port Said, and then they had stowed away in some steamer and got thrown off of her about midway between Port Said and Suez.</p><P>At ten o'clock we stopped at Suez, and sent the mail ashore; then we got under way and steamed out into the Red Sea.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>It was somewhere along here that Moses and the Israelites crossed over, the time they went on that famous strike and decided to run away from Egypt, without notifying Pharaoh so that he might employ a new "gang" to fill their places.</p><P>At that time the Isthmus of Suez was probably a very narrow neck of land; perhaps only a few hundred yards wide and several miles long.  It was undoubtedly covered with water six or eight feet deep at high tide.</p><P>Before calling his men out Moses familiarized himself with the rise and fall of the tide.  He calculated so well that he reached the water just at the beginning of ebb tide.  Naturally he was in advance of his people.  Stretching his walking stick out over the water he commanded it to break away and let him pass.  The rest of the Israelites came up about that time, and, seeing the water recede, they supposed that the Almighty had done it to oblige Moses.  Indeed it would have been a very foolish thing of Moses to tell them any better, when he saw that they actually believed that he had such a "pull" with God.  In due time the whole crowd of Jews walked over on dry land.  Several hours later Pharaoh started out in pursuit, with his faithful employees, and, perhaps, a few deputies.  Following their trail through the sand, he reached the isthmus at the beginning of flood tide.  Pharaoh knew nothing about the tide, and, seeing the tracks of the Israelites, he followed on.  The tide rose and caught him before he got over, and he and his men were all drowned through his sheer ignorance.  I think, however, that Pharaoh was more to be pitied than blamed for his ignorance of the tide, because there were no summer resorts on the coast in those days, and that was probably the first time that he had ever had occasion to go to the seaside.  It was a mean thing for Moses to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"GOAD" FORM ON PUBLIC EXHIBITION AT MONTEREY. </p></CAPTION>
108.sgm: The class of society that Ex-cook Manager Schonevaldt always catered to at the Hotel del Monte.--Picture reproduced from the S.F.  <HI REND="italics">Examiner, July 29th, 1894.</HI>
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108.sgm:fool him in that way, but Moses, as leader of the first great strike, did not intend that the iron-hearted Pharaoh should catch him.  While Pharaoh was getting cooled off Moses made good his escape.</p><P>People who go to the seaside resorts nowadays learn a great deal. They not only learn all about the rise and fall of the tide, but they come home pretty well posted about the rise and fall, principally the latter, of young girls who go there to have a good time, and have it regardless of consequences.  If that famous hot-bed for scandal, called the Hotel del Monte, where the Parvenucracy and dove-shooters go, and where young "society ladies" go into the gentlemen's bathing tank in a seminude state, in order to get their pictures published in the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:, had existed in those days, I think that Pharaoh would have been there.</p><P>You can find almost any kind of society that you ever heard of at Del Monte.</p><P>The kind of female society that kings are fond of is very abundant there during the "season."</p><P>Since writing the above I am pleased to learn that Del Monte has been supplied with a long felt want in the position of manager: namely, a gentleman.</p><P>Mr. Arnold, formerly of the Palace Hotel, San Francisco, has succeeded the arrogant, low ex-cook, Geo.  Schonewald, as manager of beautiful Del Monte.</p><P>For many years the better elements of California society have steered well clear of this beautiful spot, on account of the objectionable class that Schonewald, who could not speak English intelligibly, always catered to.</p><P>I am glad to see that the owner of the hotel--the Pacific Improvement Company--has at last opened its eyes to the real cause of the apparent unappreciativeness of the more refined classes, who have boycotted this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:place which nature--though handicapped by a pitiable, ignorant, alien menial--has made so charming.</p><P>Under the management of gentlemanly Mr. Arnold, Del Monte will come to life again, and will be appreciated and patronized by respectable society.  Messrs. Botsch, Junker and Pine, and the other civilized employees of the house will no doubt appreciate the change of management also.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>WE passed the lightship at Newport Rock, off Suez, about noon, November 1, bound for Aden, Arabia.</p><P>The peak of Mount Sinai, in the Holy Land, was plainly visible in the distance.</p><P>We experienced splendid weather in the Red Sea, and had a fresh breeze on the quarter for more than a week.</p><P>On the 9th and 10th of November we passed through the straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, in company with a large Japanese man-of-war that was on her way out to Japan, from France, where she had been built.</p><P>This is the place where young Ham is supposed to have crossed over into Africa, after he was cursed by Noah for having laughed at the old man when the latter had a quiet jag on.</p><P>Ham subsequently married the daughter of a venerable old monkey, and settled down in Abyssinia and raised the first family of "colored society."</p><P>Lineal descendants of this inter-tribe union are to be found at the Lotus Club and other social organizations of razor fame in San Francisco; also in Thompson Street, Sixth Avenue, and Thirty-second Street, New York; South Street, Philadelphia, and in every town and county in the "Cotton Belt."</p><P>"Colored society" has had a hard struggle for social recognition in the United States.  It was first introduced into America, in the year 1620, by a Dutchman who brought twenty members of it over from Africa, and landed them somewhere up the James River.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:F.F.V.'s refused to acknowledge the introduction of the Dutchman, from a social standpoint.  Whether this was on account of the color or odor of his <HI REND="italics">prote&acute;ge&acute;s</HI>
108.sgm:, or whether it was because of the Dutchman's own uncertain social standing (he was probably a pirate), I have not been able to ascertain; but at any rate the "first families of Virginian colored society" were not received as guests; and what is still better, their descendants never will be.  A man named McAllister,--long live his name!--a predecessor of Ward, declared that society must have a grandfather.  The Dutchman proved up "grand-paternity," accursed as it was, by the Bible, but it leaked out that there was a "tail" connected with its "ma-ternity," or monkey-turnity, I don't remember which, and the Dutchman, freebooter that he was, was so shocked that he sold his <HI REND="italics">prote&acute;ge&acute;s</HI>
108.sgm: to some old planters for slaves.</p><P>In due time the planters discovered that their slaves were useful about cotton farms.  These slaves were prolific, but not enough so to supply the demands of the cotton raisers of the South; so some enterprising New Englanders procured a ship and brought over some more of the descendants of Ham from Africa, and sold them for good prices.</p><P>Subsequently whole fleets of New England ships ran between Africa and different American sea ports, bringing over "colored society" to order.</p><P>No one ever dreamed of receiving "colored society" on a basis of equality until a rail splitter, named Abraham Lincoln, through accident, got to be President of the United States.</p><P>Mr. Lincoln was told that the white overseers and slave drivers from Indiana, who superintend Southern cotton plantations for American owners, were trying to make "colored society" white, and that they had already <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:changed a good deal of it to a dingy, disgusting yellow.  Mr. Lincoln thought that if a few Hoosier overseers could make "colored society" yellow, the president of the jingo party ought to be able to make it snow white.  So, after stirring up a great civil war, and wrecking the country, he issued a proclamation setting all "colored society" "free," and placing it on a white basis, so he thought.</p><P>But, so far as benefiting "colored society" was concerned, Mr. Lincoln's scheme was a rank failure,--that is, if the opinion of "colored society," on that particular subject, counts for anything,--because eighty per cent. of "freed colored society" in the South says: "Lord bless yoh soul, chile, we am wuss off now dan we eber was befo'.  Umph, my Lord! we had homes befo' we was freed, but now we aint got nothin'--nothin' 'tall."</p><P>After setting the slaves free, it was found that they could not take care of themselves, and that white society ignored them socially.  Then a man named Booth, a frenzied crank, took pity on society and killed Mr. Lincoln, to keep him from making a giant April fool of Uncle Sam by allowing the fanatics to try to further facilitate the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;but</HI>
108.sgm: of the descendants of Ham and his monkey spouse into the society of legitimacy and the White House.</p><P>As it stands to-day, "colored society" has no social standing in America at all, and it never will have any.</p><P>It should be sent back to Africa, where it came from, to raise watemelons and poultry for itself, instead of stealing all that the "poh white trash" raise.</p><P>Early in the morning of November 11, we came to anchor in the harbor of Aden, which is, perhaps, the dryest city on the face of the earth.  However, it forms an important link in the long chain of English fortified coaling stations extending around the world.  There is not a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:drop of natural fresh water to be found within miles of Aden.  The city bears the distinction of having a manufacturing industry that consists solely of a water factory where fresh water is condensed from the salt water of the ocean.</p><P>On the afternoon of November 17, we took our departure from Aden, and stood for the Island of Ceylon.</p><P>On the 19th we passed Cape Guardafui and the Island of Socotra.</p><P>After that we took a few deep-sea soundings in the Indian Ocean, probably just to give Mr. Wadham a chance to lose the rest of the sounding cups and wire that were left over from the expedition on the Atlantic.  After he had lost all of the cups, and nearly all of the wire, Captain Jewell placed Mr. Hoggett in charge of the sounding machine, with a single cup made by the engineers on board the ship.  Mr. Hoggett had better luck than Mr. Wadham, and we managed to get along without mishap until all the soundings were taken.</p><P>Fifteen days after leaving Aden we sighted the beautiful Island of Ceylon, and on the afternoon of December 2 we moored ship in the harbor of Colombo, the principal city on the island.</p><P>Our lines were barely made fast before the Parsee peddlers began to swarm over the gangway, loaded down with cheap jewelry, and bogus precious stones purported to have been found in Ceylon, but actually imported from Europe and America.</p><P>The Parsees, be it understood, are called the "Jews of Asia."  They received this title from the first white people who ever went to India, for the reason, no doubt, that there were no other people on the face of the earth except the Jews who could be compared with them for "business ability."  Had it not been for the fact that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:the Jews were known to the Europeans before the Parsees were, I think that their respective titles would have been reversed, and that the Jews would now be called the Parsees of America and Europe.  The shrewdest venders of collar buttons, socks, and second-hand clothes on Baxter Street, New York, and Kearney Street, San Francisco, could not hold a candle to the Parsees.  When it comes to a "bargain," Raphael, Roos Brothers, Cohen &amp; Co., and the other world-beaters for bum overcoats, simply "aint in it" with the Parsee crepe shawl peddlers.</p><P>One of these latter asked me twenty-five <HI REND="italics">rupees</HI>
108.sgm: for a shawl.  Not wishing to buy the shawl, I offered him five <HI REND="italics">rupees</HI>
108.sgm: for it, and he took it.</p><P>After a pleasant sojourn of four days at Colombo, we put to sea on the 6th of December.  Passing Point de Galle, the southeastern extremity of Ceylon, we pointed our prow eastward across the Bay of Bengal, and stood for the Straits of Malacca.</p><P>Hauling fires and sending the black squad on deck, we continued under canvas the same as we did while crossing the Atlantic.</p><P>On the 9th and 10th of December we ran before the heaviest gales that we encountered during the whole cruise.  On the 10th the storm increased to such violence that we were compelled to heave to for a whole day.</p><P>This was the same typhoon that destroyed Madras, and played such havoc with the shipping all up and down the east coast of India.  It was estimated that the wind blew at the rate of over one hundred miles an hour.  The weather moderated on the morning of the 11th, however, and we shook the reefs out of our sails and proceeded on our course.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>On the 14th we stopped off the west coast of Sumatra to have our quarterly target practice and torpedo exercise.  A target was rigged up on a raft and launched.  Then Captain Jewell came on deck and gave the order: "Clear ship for action!"  In a very few minutes the light spars were sent down, and everything was made snug aloft.  The decks were cleared of everything not needed in battle, and we were ready to execute the maneuvers just as if we were going into an engagement with "the enemy."  For fully an hour the broadside guns, the big eight-inch pivot gun, and the bow chaser were turned on the target.  Shell after shell went hissing across the water, and the cannonade was something terrific.  The best gunners in the ship pointed and fired the guns; but, when the quarterly allowance of practice shells was exhausted, the target still floated peacefully on the smooth sea.  They had never touched it.</p><P>Then the Gatling guns were brought into action, and the marines and sharpshooters gave an exhibition of <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
108.sgm: markmanship, but the bullets from their guns only ricocheted across the water until the last round of the quarterly allowance of small-arm ammunition was gone.</p><P>Mortified and disgusted with his gunners, Captain Jewell ordered the torpedo division to blow up the impudent target, which had drifted alongside the ship right in the face of the terrific fusillade which had been directed at it.  Very soon a small dynamite torpedo was rigged out on the end of the starboard lower studdingsail boom.</p><P>These torpedoes are exploded by electricity.  The electric battery was aft on the poop.  The wire, extending forward along the bulwarks, was run out and connected with the torpedo on the end of the boom.</p><P>There was a switch at the break of the forecastle, just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:like an ordinary electric light switch, that connected or disconnected the battery with the torpedo as occasion required.  Ensign Rodman, assisted by Quarter Gunner Henry Hudson, had charge of the torpedo division up forward, while Lieutenant Fechteler looked after the electric battery aft.  The ship steamed around in order to get into a position so that the torpedo could be lowered into the water and exploded under the target.</p><P>All the boys, and, in fact, nearly the entire crew, crowded up on the top-gallant forecastle to watch the blowing up of the raft.  While this was going on, someone turned the switch connecting the torpedo with the battery before the torpedo was lowered into the water.  Lieutenant Fechteler, supposing that everything was all right in connection with the torpedo up forward, pressed the button just to see if the battery was in working order.  A terrific explosion followed.  The ship trembled from stem to stern, while fragments of the copper torpedo flew in every direction.  When the smoke cleared away the forecastle presented a pitiable sight.  Lying in a pool of blood, at the breech of the six-inch rifle bow chaser, was all that remained mortal of Seaman Apprentice Peter Hagele.  A piece of the torpedo had penetrated his temple, killing him instantly.  A few feet away lay W. C. Hammond, another seaman apprentice, with the blood flowing from an ugly wound in the temple.<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">Hammond was afterward sent to Bellevue Hospital, New York, to have the piece of copper extracted from his brain.  At last accounts he was a lunatic from the effects of the wound.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>R. F. Gerbach ran aft with the blood flowing from a wound in his left knee.  August Rettig received a fragment of copper in the leg.  W. J. Morgan, the chief boatswain's mate, had a small hole in his leg, and W. J. McFadden was down on his knees calling frantically upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:the Blessed Virgin to stop a small stream of blood that was trickling from his forehead.  Nor was this all.  Down under the forecastle was old Corporal Boyd, of the marine guard, picking a piece of copper out of his head with his knife.  Boyd, who was an old veteran, was looking out of a porthole when the explosion occurred.  When he found that he was not dead, he quietly extracted this missile from his head, and, tying his handkerchief over the wound, proceeded to assist the rest of the injured.</p><P>As this all happened on the equator, where the temperature was 100&deg; in the shade, it was impossible to keep poor Hagele until we reached port.</p><P>At three o'clock the same afternoon the boatswain's mate sounded the solemn call, "All hands bury the dead."</p><P>The entire ship's company mustered on deck.  The flag was hoisted at half-mast.  The corpse, sewed up in canvas, with a sixty pound shot attached, was brought to the starboard gangway on a broad plank.</p><P>Giving the order to "uncover," Captain Jewell took off his cap, and read the burial service.  As he came to the last words he signaled to Summerville, the captain of the maintop, who tipped the plank outward.  There was a splash, as the remains of our shipmate disappeared into the sea, and all was over.  Motioning to the boatswain's mate to "pipe down," and signaling to the engineer to go ahead full speed, the captain proceeded to shape his course for Singapore.</p><P>We went ahead through the Straits of Malacca, picking our way through the narrow channels between the islands along the south coast of the Malay Peninsula, as fast as our engines could propel the ship through the water.  As an everlasting reminder of somebody's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE DEATH OF PETER HAGELE ON BOARD THE ESSEX.<LB>"Lieutenant Fechteler pressed the button.  A terrific explosion followed.  When the smoke cleared away, Hagele was dead, Hammond was crippled for life, and four others were dangerously wounded."-- <HI REND="italics">Extract from Author's Private Diary, Dec. 14th, 1886</HI>
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108.sgm:blundering work, which could safely go down to history as criminal carelessness, one life had been sacrificed and another had been blighted.  In addition to this, two persons were under the surgeon's knife, with the very best prospects of developing gangrene, in which case they would have lost their legs and, probably, their lives; and three others were more or less injured.</p><P>The court of inquiry, composed of offices of the ship, decided that nobody was responsible.  The sad occurrence was summed up by the talented court as an "unavoidable accident," and such it is still believed to have been.</p><P>Nothing can ever restore the life that was lost, and nothing <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
108.sgm: ever restore the mind that was wrecked, but nevertheless, a review of the prominent facts in the case is, I hope, not out of place even at this late hour.</p><P>Several commissioned officers were superintending the experiment through which the "accident" was brought about.  The person killed, and all of the wounded, were enlisted man.  The court of inquiry was composed of officers.  I suppose the court made some inquiries about the man whose duty it was to see that the torpedo was handled carefully.  Whether or not anyone was supposed to turn on the current at a given signal, I could not say.  If this was overlooked someone was guilty of criminal carelessness.  But I sincerely hope that the decision rendered was just</p></DIV>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>ON the 18th of December, 1886, we dropped anchor in the harbor of Singapore, Straits Settlements.</p><P>Two days later we sent Rettig and Gerbach to the hospital, to be treated for the injuries received in the torpedo explosion.</p><P>We celebrated Christmas at Singapore in the regular, good old American style.  Our dinner table was set on the spar deck, reaching from the break of the forecastle to the mainmast.  On top of it was piled a <HI REND="italics">menu</HI>
108.sgm: consisting of all the different varieties of eatables that could be found in the market.  This we washed down with various brands of liquid refreshments; Captain Jewell having granted us that privilege, at the request of our esteemed and beloved first lieutenant.</p><P>The eccentricities of old "Humpty Dumpty" certainly entitle him to more than a casual mention.  In his way he was one of the most extraordinary characters that I have ever met.  He possessed an individuality peculiarly his own.  Imagine a little man of perhaps fifty, about five feet four inches in height, with moderately long red side whiskers and mustache to match, and it will give you some idea of how Mr. Bicknell appears at first glance.  On closer observation you will notice that he has a pair of very keen bluish-gray eyes, a large nose, and a fairly firm chin, which, owing to his "Burnsides," appears at first to be somewhat abbreviated.  Along with all these he carries a set expression that would puzzle Kendall, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:any other fake mind reader in the world, to account for, further than that it is harmless.  Altogether, while he is far from being handsome, Mr. Bicknell is by no means uninteresting.  When he is dressed up in his social coat, with brass buttons, and has on his Sunday smile, which he assures himself of every now and then by running his fingers through his whiskers, he is actually pleasing to behold; but when he dresses up for a ball in his evening uniform suit, with epaulettes and low cut waistcoat, showing a white shirt front, he is a distressing failure.  He dances as gracefully as a tortoise.</p><P>Having heard a great deal of the different heathen "religions,"--so-called from the fact that they acknowledge a Supreme Ruler,--I decided to visit some of the Buddhist and other temples in Singapore.  I had been too busily engaged in other ways at Colombo and Aden to even ask anybody if there were any places of worship in those  cities, and, besides this, our own missionary lieutenant had been holding so many fake prayer meetings on board, that the work "religion," uttered seriously anywhere forward of the smokestack, was like waving a red shirt before a herd of wild bullocks.</p><P>Jack Hartel, Jimmy Welch, Willie Lamb, and several other irreverent boys and organized a vigilance committee to protest against Mr. Wadham's "zeal," and the entire class of boys had joined in and adopted resolutions tabooing psalm-singing and everything of that nature.  Anyone who broke the rules was liable to be severely  punished, and all crimes committed while on shore were punishable just the same as if committed on board ship.  After dinner was over, on Christmas Day, a meeting was called on the forecastle, and the rules and regulations concerning religion were suspended, only as fare as they interfered with sight-seeing.  Those who asked permission <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:to visit the heathen temples cautioned to steer clear of all churches in which the English, French, or German languages were spoken.</p><P>Jarrett, Schipperus, Lippincott, Funk, Link, and I were about the only boys who were anxious to see the heathen at "worship."  We went up to the large temple out toward the Zodieological Gardens.  As we started to enter, the door-keeper made signs to us to take off our shoes.  Seeing us hesitate, he pointed to a long row of sandals just outside the door.  Then we understood.  As we deposited our shoes with the door-keeper, I noticed that ours were the only leather shoes in the pile; all the rest being the grass, bamboo, and wooden sandals of the Malays, Indians, and other natives.</p><P>Inside the temple we found the congregation, of men only, squatting on the earth on their launches, with their heads bowed down until their faces touched in the ground.  Around the sides ere hideous-looking images of dragons, devils, monsters, fierce Oriental warriors, and many other unpleasant things.  We did not stay very long, for the reason that the noxious incense and a mixture of other disagreeable odors, peculiar to the climate of Singapore, made us sick.</p><P>When we came out we found that our shoes were not where we had left them.  Supposing that the door- keeper had put them away, we looked around for that individual, and discovered that he, too, had vanished.</p><P>There we stood, bare-footed, in the streets of Singapore.  We knew that it was useless to go in quest of the thief, so we spoke to a big East Indian policeman who understood English, but seeing that we were Americans he only laughed at us.  Perhaps he did this to remind us that he knew a thing or two about the way our own policemen act when anybody asks one of them to arrest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:a thief or a hoodlum or some other outlaw of the policeman's own ilk.</p><P>Not wishing to walk around town in our bare feet, we went down to the dock, and all of the party returned to the ship, except Link, who declared that he would remain on shore until he found the man with his shoes.</p><P>Several days later a long, dangle-legged Englishman, a resident of Singapore, came on board accompanied by one of the most ridiculous objects that I saw on the whole voyage.  Whether it was a gorilla from the "Zoo" or a wild man from Borneo, no one could tell as it leaned against the main fife rail.  It was about the height of "Humpty Dumpty," whatever it was; it walked on two legs, and appeared to understand what the Englishman said to it.  It wore, on the upper part of its body, a portion on an undershirt, the sleeves and tail of which were missing, while the bosom stood open showing a healthy growth of bristles.  Its lower limbs were in-cased in a pair of trousers, rolled up at the bottoms, but still dragging under its feet, while the waistband was held up under the arms by means of a belt, after the fashion of Alex Basil Willieberforce at a tennis tournament.  It could actually talk; that is, it could utter sounds a trifle more intelligible than Mr. Willieberforce's presentation speech to Sam Hardy, when the latter wrested the tennis championship cup from Tom Driscoll, at San Rafael, on the Fourth of July, 1894.  However, the curious object turned out to be neither a wild man nor a gorilla, nor even a near relative of Mr. Wilberforce.</p><P>In the meantime all the boys had crowded around, and the offices came on deck to see what was up.  Mr. Fechteler, who was officer of the deck, having been assured by the Englishman that the thing was tame, approached it, and declared that it was the missing Link.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Mr. Fechteler was right; but at that time, so he told me at dinner on board the <HI REND="italics">Albatross</HI>
108.sgm: not long ago, he had never seen Mr. Willieberforce, or he might have reserved his verdict for the San Rafael tennis tournament.</p><P>When asked by "Humpty Dumpty" to explain why he had broken his leave, and come on board out of uniform, and in this cloudy-day- in-London rig, Link said that he had found a policeman wearing his shoes, and upon asking the policeman, who happened to be the only Irishman on the "force" in Singapore, to return them, he had received a clout over the head from the Irishman's club.  Link, having taken boxing lessons from Lieutenant Tommy Carter, on the <HI REND="italics">New Hampshire</HI>
108.sgm:, was something of a scanner himself, a fact of which he proceeded to convince the rude policeman, by knocking the latter down and walking all over him, and taking his shoes by main force.</p><P>While Link was putting on his shoes, the vulgar policeman blew his whistle, and in a few minutes a whole squad of other policemen came tearing down upon him from every direction.  These preservers of the peace not only recaptured the shoes, but they stripped Link of his clothes, struck him in the eye with brass "knucks," sand-bagged him, and left him for dead.</p><P>While in the plight he was found by the Englishman, who took him to his house, rigged him up in the manner aforesaid, which was the correct style in the Singapore Cricket Club, and brought him on board the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>New Year's Day, 1887, found us at anchor in singapore harbor, with steam up and all ready to sail.</p><P>In the afternoon we got under way, bound for the Philippine Islands.  We put to sea and ran right into a current of bad luck that stayed with us for many days.  To begin with, we encountered a head wind, the northeast monsoon.  This interfered very much with our progress, as can readily be understood from the fact that we were rigged for sailing.  We bettered our condition a little by sending down all the light spars at first, and later on, as the wind increased, we sent down the topsail yards, and fore and main yards, housed the top-masts and rigged in the jib-boom.</p><P>On the 4th of January, 1887, the career on the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: came very near being ended forever.  Early in the morning we sighted one of the small islands in the lower China Sea, about four hundred miles north of Singapore.  The navigator laid the ship on a course that would have taken her on the side of the island nearest to the coast of Siam.  We were going along steadily at about eight knots an hour, having run into smooth water on the lee side of the island, when all at once Ensign Loomis, the officer of the forecastle, yelled out to the officer of the deck; "Rocks ahead, sir!"</p><P>"Stop her!  Back her full speed!" yelled Mr. Walling, who was officer of the deck.<ANCHOR ID="n1-9">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE> I hear that Mr. Walling was the officer of the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Kear-sarge</HI>
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108.sgm:<P>These startling commands, followed by the quick clanging of the engine-room gong, brought all hands on deck. Right ahead of us, and on each side, could be seen the sharp, jagged points of numerous rocks, ugly looking things, that would have torn the whole bottom out of the ship had she not been stopped in time.  The navigator refused to believe his own eyes, for those rocks were not laid down on the chart.  He was not even satisfied with the soundings obtained with the  hand lead; but insisted on lowering the whale boat, and sending a quartermaster ahead to make sure that the rocks were genuine.</p><P>Having fully satisfied himself and the captain that the rocks were not the result of the imagination that succeeds a beautiful New Year's jag, as the old man had thought when he heard that Mr. Loomis had seen them first, the order was given to "'bout ship."</p><P>This meant to turn around and go back, which he did.  On consulting the chart again, it was found that we had merely undertaken to pass on the wrong side of the island.  With the morning's experience, and a gentle hint from the captain that the smartest of navigaters often find it necessary to consult the charts, as reminders, Mr. Wadham decided to go around on the other side of the island, where we found water enough to float all the ships in Uncle Sam's navy.</p><P>After a tiresome voyage of ten days, during which time we came very near being reduced to the necessity of burning up all of our light spars, on account of running out of coal, we reached Manilla on the morning of January 11.  So completely exhausted was our supply of coal, that the bunkers were swept, and the last  shovelful of coal dust was thrown into the furnace as we reached an anchorage about five miles out.</p><P>Manilla is on the island of Luzon, and it is the largest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:city in the Philippine group, which is under Spanish rule.</p><P>We managed to get a fresh supply of coal at the end of three days, at which time, January 14, we started across the China Sea for Hong Kong.</p><P>We had the wind in our favor going over, and we took advantage of it.</p><P>There is such a thing, however, as trying to make too much out of a fair wind; and we found this out in a way that was calculated to cause us not to forget it.  On the 16th of January we were driving along with all sail set, and the engine going as fast as ever she could, when suddenly there was a great commotion up forward.</p><P>Crack! rip ! flapity-flap-flap ! and away went out fore-topsail yard, sail and all.</p><P>The accident did not detain us very long, for the watch on deck ran aloft and straightened things up--that is, what was left--in very short order.</p><P>Continuing on our course, we sighted the coast of China early the next morning, the 17th and in the afternoon of the same day we let go our anchor in the harbor of Hong Kong.  About the first thing we did at Hong Kong was to send Ensign Radman to the hospital, he having contracted a touch of brain fever after the torpedo explosion.</p><P>The city is situated on the Island of Hong Kong, right in the mouth of the Canton River.  Like Gibraltar, Hong Kong is a British possession.  As Gibraltar is the key to the Mediterranean, so is Hong Kong the key to China, and it is the great center of trade of all Asia.  It is said that the tonnage of the shipping that enters the port of Hong Kong annually, is equal to, if not greater than, that of any other port in the world, not excepting even New York, Liverpool, London, and San Francisco.</p><P>We love to make fun of the Britisher about his accent,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:his loud dressing and talking, his inability to understand a joke, and his ignorance of our democratic social usages.  Perhaps he might be forgiven for the last-mentioned crime, since so many bankrupt princes, dukes, lords, and other specimens of his cheap-titled aristocracy have been bought up by our railroad magnates, and other members of the Parvenucracy, for husbands for their brainless daughters, who flaunt their pictures out before the public in the daily papers as if they had not already made everybody tired long before.  According to our notion, everything that the Englishman does is wrong.  However, when we come to take an inventory of what has been accomplished by the inhabitants of the little group of islands off the coast of France, we are bound to admit that when it comes to gobbling up foreign territory, and seizing important commercial centers and fortifying them so that it would be utterly impossible to capture them, our friend John Bull is no slouch, even if he did get knocked out in 1776.</p><P>One thing that I always admired in the English-man is his strong love for his country.  Ridiculous and uncouth as his manner certainly is to us, he never attempts to deny his nationality.  No matter what edict the Prince of Wales issues concerning the number of reefs that a gentleman should wear in the bottoms of his trousers' legs, and no matter what part of the world the English dude happens to be in when the cablegram announcing the change in the weather in London reaches him, he obeys without a murmur.  Since the Prince of Wales turned up his trousers one night as he came out from the theater, the national boast that "the sun never sets on the English flag," will soon be supplanted by the startling announcement that the moon never sets on turned-up evening dress trousers.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>We took our departure from Hong Kong on the 23d on January.  Owing to the violence of the northeast monsoons we found it necessary to put into Ah-moy, China, on the 25th.  We remained at Ah- moy until the 28th, when we put to sea again with all our yards down on deck, and top masts housed, and everything secured for steaming up the coast.  This run from Ah-moy up the coast of China, through the straits of Formosa and the China Sea, was the most disagreeable part of the whole voyage around the world.  For six days we drove right into a heavy head sea, during which time the decks were continually flooded.  Every now and then a big sea would break over the forecastle and rush clean aft to the cabin door, carrying everything movable that came in its way.  However, we kept right on, and on the morning of the 3d of February we ran into the harbor of Nagasaki, Japan, for a fresh supply of coal.</p><P>At Nagasaki all the stevedores and coal heavers are females.  The women have a monopoly on this particular branch of labor, especially coaling ships of war.  It is said that men are not allowed to handle coal there under any consideration.</p><P>I wonder how some of our society ladies, like mannish Mrs. Clara Foltz, and Laura de Force Gordon--they of the Portia Law (d)-help-us Club--and their <HI REND="italics">clique</HI>
108.sgm:, who are always agitating the woman's suffrage question, and forever and eternally crying or for "woman's rights," would like to go on board a man-of-war, and form a line from the port gangway to the coal bunkers, and pass coal on board our of the collier, in little baskets which hold about forty pounds each?  These baskets are passed along the line of "new" women from one to another, and they must be kept in motion, at a rate of speed that would make your head swim, from the time they leave the lighter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:alongside the ship until they are dumped into the bunkers.</p><P>Let our would-be mannish ladies, who wear bloomers and ride bicycles, take warning from the present plight of their almond-eyed sisters across the water, who kept insisting on having the same privileges that their husbands and brothers enjoyed, until they finally got just what they deserved in the manner aforesaid.</p><P>We remained at Nagasaki just about six hours, during which time the young society lady advocates of Woman's Suffrage piled coal enough into our bunkers to last us to Yokohama, for which port we cleared our at four o'clock in the afternoon.</p><P>The next morning we passed the active volcano of Iwoga, commonly called "Smoky Jack," in Van Diemen's Straits.  From that time on our spirits began to rise, for we were approaching our destination, where we expected to have a little rest.  The varied experiences through which we had passed during the long and tedious voyage from New York, had created a desire in some of our minds to rest on our laurels for a while.</p><P>Early in the morning of February 7 we sighted the tall snow-capped peak of Fuji-Yama, or the mountain of fire, the sacred mountain of Japan.</p><P>Fuji-Yama, the loftiest mountain in Japan, is an extinct volcano, on the Island of Nippon.  It is about 12,500 feet high.</p><P>About noon of the same day we passed up the Gulf of Tokio, and dropped anchor in the harbor of Yokohama.  Thus ended this long voyage of over 15,000 nautical miles, equal to about 16,875 English miles, or more than two-thirds of the circumference of the earth.</p><P>Having reached our destination, the first duty of Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Jewell was to report for duty to Admiral Ralph Chandler, commander-in-chief of the American naval forces on the Asiatic station.  These naval forces consisted of several "men-of-war," such as the <HI REND="italics">Monocacy</HI>
108.sgm:, an old double-ender, which would be about as useful in battle as one of the Oakland of Jersey City ferryboats with one paddle-wheel gone; and the <HI REND="italics">Palos</HI>
108.sgm:, a little, old, worn-out tugboat, about as big as one of Spreckles' tow-boats, or one of the Long Island fishing tugs.  These formidable battle ships had been patched up so often that scarcely any parts of the original vessel remained, except, perhaps, the dimensions and the engines, which were out of date a long time before the civil war between the States.  These two worse than useless old bulks, besides having been the laughing- stock of all the foreign naval squadrons and foreign vessels in the China seas for years and years, have actually cost the Government of the United States more to keep them afloat than it would take to build two modern fishing vessels.  Even the Chinese and Japanese make fun of our fleet of "ships" out there.  The Chinese refer to the <HI REND="italics">Monocacy</HI>
108.sgm: as a "heep no good junk."</p><P>Whenever anybody ventures to suggest the advisability of condemning these old tubs, and selling them at auction to the dealers in junk and scrap iron, the boodle politicians around Washington City, and "society" in general throughout the East, raise a great hue and cry about it being a shame to destroy historic vessels.  Sometimes the cranks even go as far as to threaten to take up subscriptions from the "windows" and "orphans" (?) of the Grand Army pension pickers to repair the "dear old ships," and keep them in commission as relics of "The War," in order that the American flag may continue to be a target for the ridicule and sarcasm of foreign <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:nations as long as it is kept waving from the peaks of such dilapidated old dug-outs.</p><P>Admiral Chandler, having received Captain Jewell officially, instructed the latter gentleman to have the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: scrubbed and painted, and made ready for receiving visitors, after which he would receive him socially, and introduce him and his staff into Yokohama society.</p><P>The admiral was a jolly, good old fellow.  he had two daughters who were great society girls; but he did not want them to go into Yokohama society, so he declared.  The old admiral went on to tell Captain Jewell something about Oriental society; that is, the "society" of the Americans and Europeans in Japan.  He said that in no other place outside of San Francisco could a fellow have more fun in a quiet way, without running any risks of being shot by jealous husbands, than he could right in Yokohama.  Very few of the naval officers ever take their wives out to Yokohama.  These foxy gentlemen tell their better halves that the water in Japan is very unhealthful, and the climate very bad for married ladies.  This may be true, but the naval officers don't drink much water in any place.  And then the climate that is "bad for other men's wives" seems to agree with such gentlemen as Captain Jewell, Captain McCormick, and Captain Gridley.</p><P>"But don't forget, Captain Jewell," said the admiral, "that mum's the word out here."  And the good old admiral winked the other eye, and poked Captain Jewell in the ribs with his index finger.</p><P>Then they both had a good, hearty laugh and some lemonade with fiddlesticks in it; and Captain Jewell returned to his ship, and told his officers what a nice soft snap there was in store for them, and that it was theirs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:as soon as they could get the ship ready for receiving visitors on board.</p><P>The fact that the officers had been away from their homes for more than five months only increased the desire of the fashionable "society ladies" to meet them as soon as possible.</p><P>The trouble was, that some of these "ladies" were afraid that the newly arrived gentlemen would pay their respects to the bewitching almond-eyed fairies of Yoshiwara<ANCHOR>*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: and Kanagawa before entering into the "swim."</p><P>In order to prevent the Japanese girls from securing the first outburst of long- smothered flames, the swell society ladies lost no time in arranging a ball complimentary to the captain and officers of the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm:, in order that they might waltz those smothered flames into life to the enchanting strains of such popular airs as:  "If <HI REND="italics">You</HI>
108.sgm: Love Me, Darling, Tell Me With----" "After The Ball is Over," "Love Will Find a Way," and other inspiring music, vocal as well as instrumental.</p><P>The "ball" was literally a howling success.  No broken sighs were breathed there.  Plain English was the order of conservation during the night, and Yokohama society ladies, the married ones in particular,--whose husbands, like E. V. Thorne, professional gambler, lottery ticket vendor, "editor," publisher, and proprietor of the blackmail sheet called the <HI REND="italics">Box of Curious</HI>
108.sgm:, spend six nights out of every week playing poker at the hotels barrooms, and clubs, and the seventh at the "tea houses" of Yoshiwara,--understand how to use it to the best advantage on an occasion of this kind.</p><P>This ball settled the fate of most of our offices during<NOTE> * Yoshiwara is the Japanese name for a certain section of each city that is fenced off for the use of persons who prefer to ignore the marriage law.  New York and San Francisco should follow suit.</NOTE>
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108.sgm:the sojourn of the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: in Yokohama.  Whether these gentlemen acted on the advice of Chesterfield, or merely through a sense of gentlemanly duty of suffering humanity or femininity, I am not prepared to say; but if, through neglect, they made any lifelong enemies among the married ladies of Yokohama's little Parvenucracy, I think it must have been unintentional on the part of the officers.  It should be remembered, however, that a fresh shipload of American naval officers, five months away from home, does not arrive in Yokohama very often; and when such a precious cargo of manly freight does arrive, the demand, like the demand for fresh beef and pork in Chicago during a railroad strike, is always greater than the supply.</p><P>I should like to mention, here, that I did not approve of the killing of Mr. Gower Robinson, English dude and broker, by Lieutenant Hetherington, U. S. N., for  his carryings- on with the latter's giddy wife.  Lieutenant Hetherington was well aware of the tropical temperature that prevailed all the year around the Oriental society, when he permitted his silly young wife to go out to Yokohama; and I think that in slaying the first man who paid his respects to Mrs. Hetherington during his absence, the lieutenant not only made a fool of himself, but he displayed a lack of appreciativeness that was very unbecoming to an officer and a gentleman, and detrimental to good order and discipline.  Mr. Hetherington knew how amiably and kindly his brother officers were always treated by the semi-matronly ladies of Yokohama, therefore he had no right to slaughter a man like that for merely trying to make an old established rule work both ways.</p><P>There was one officer on board, however, who would have nothing to do with the class of society. Lieutenant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Wadham, true to "faith," devoted all his leisure moments to missionary ladies.</p><P>It was hinted by Mr. Walling and Mr. Hoggett, and others who did not like the navigater, that the latter was not as religious as he pretended to be.  Some of these wicked officers even went so far as to declare that Mr. Wadham was a hugh fraud, and that he had only been practicing up his religion on the way out from New York, in order to be able to "stand in" with Mr. Meecham, Miss Britton, Mr. Staniland, and Mr. Loomis, and other old sinners of that sanctimonious ilk in Yokohama, and incidentally to curry favor with the wives and daughters of all other missionaries in Japan.</p><P>Methodist missionary society in Japan is about on a par with San Francisco's South or Market Tar Flatocracy, and New York's Tenderloin-Tammanocracy as Dr. Parkhurst and Father Ducey have portrayed it.</p><P>I have seen missionaries of both sexes, who landed in Japan and started in with a little steamer trunk and a certificate from the American Bible Society, or some Methodist Missionary Manufacturing Company, return home, after a few years, with silks, satins, and other Oriental luxuries enough for a princess.  These valuables they had received, no doubt, in exchange for "salvation of the souls of the heathen" (?).  "Christian civilization!"  Bah!  Our Savior never taught any such Christianity as that.  But it is "irreverent" to expose such hypocrisy.</p><P>From a mere rumor at first, it soon developed into common talk all over the ship, that the navigator was just as bad as the rest of the officers, and, indeed, worse, for the others never pretended to be saints, while the navigater wanted to convert the whole crew, from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Captain Jewell on down to the quarter gunner's "chicken" (a boy named Conan) into a little Salvation Army.</p><P>After we had been in Yokohama a couple of weeks, and the daily routine had been resumed,--after the ball,--and all hands began to evince a decided inclination to stay on board the ship at least two nights during each week to recuperate, Mr. Wadham made one mighty effort to redeem his lost reputation and re-establish his amateur prayer meetings.  He announced, one day, that he would bring some of his lady friends on board that night, to entertain the boys with music.  The idea would not have been a bad one had he brought along some of the lady friends of the other officers; but this he would not do.  He brought all missionaries.  It took three trips of the steam launch to the creek landing to bring them all on board.  And such a lot of old pie-faces you never saw in all your life!  The toughest-looking specimens of ex-massage artists, and other "Mary Magdelens" that I ever saw in the Salvation Army would be Venuses along-side of some of the prettiest of the navigater's ex-cook, ex-chambermaid, and ex- washerwoman missionary friends.  The fact of his keeping company with such frightful-looking old freaks was, at least, one point in the navigater's favor, so far as the re-establishment of his religious pretensions went.  We boys were very young then, and we had a good deal to learn.  Some of us were inclined to let up on Mr. Wadham a little, and make less fun of his psalm-singing, for we were beginning to think that we had been a little too severe in our criticisms of him all along, and that, perhaps, after all, he was all right, except in the head.  Hartel and Walsh called a meeting of the boys on the forecastle, and a motion was made to send a committee of three to apologize to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:navigater and beg his pardon for having called him a "sanctimonious old sinner."</p><P>The tidal wave of public sympathy was at its height, and the motion was just about to be voted upon, and most undoubtedly it would have been carried by acclamation, had it not been for the presence of older and wiser counsel.  Old Nick Leah, one of the boatswain's mates, asked if he might be permitted to address the meeting.  Nick was an old war veteran of wide "social" as well as fighting experience.  A veritable old salt was he, with his closely cropped mustache and long hair protruding from his nostrils, reminding you of a Turk.  In a brief but well-chosen speech, Old Nick explained to us that beauty was only skin deep, after all; and he further stated that he could prove it by the history of New York's alleged "Four Hundred," that some of the greatest men of the day preferred the "society" of the homeliest ladies that they could find, to that of the reigning belles of the season; and he further stated that he considered Mr. Wadham a sly old fox.</p><P>Nick put a clincher on his argument by relating some hitherto unpublished facts that came out in connection with the famous Beecher-Tilton adultery case.  He declared that it had been proven beyond any question or doubt that Mrs. Tilton was the homeliest "lady" in Plymouth Church.  Nick went on to relate the anecdote of how Mr. Beecher had explained to an inquisitive friend why he preferred Mrs. Tilton's society to that of some of the younger and handsomer ladies, by showing the friend an old rusty-looking silver watch, the movement of which he declared was superior to that of his gold watch.</p><P>This was more than we could stand.  Bad as we had believed the navigater to be, we had never dreamt that he was a disciple of Henry Ward Beecher.  Instead of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:sending a committee to beg his pardon, someone suggested the idea of keel-hauling him for attempting to run such a bluff on us.  After passing a resolution thanking Nick Leah for his timely advice, and carrying by acclamation a motion that if the navigater tried any more of his funny business with us we would throw him overboard, we adjourned the meeting subject to the call of the chairman.  Just what Mr. Wadham's fate might have been is uncertain, for the next day he was transferred from the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: to the position of flag lieutenant to Admiral Chandler, on board the <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn</HI>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>Sir Edwin Arnold has told the world what a good time he had with the Gaisha girls in Japan, and Clement Scott has illustrated and portrayed in several ably written articles the different kinds of fool that old Sir Edwin made of himself over the tea-house fairies, and how he maligned and insulted the ladies of America and Europe by comparing them with the Japanese girls, and declaring that these clumsy, shapeless little pug-nosed creatures were prettier than our own queenly girls.  Therefore, I will not devote any space to the Japanese girls further than to indorse all that Clement Scott has written about that particular class that he and Arnold discovered.  They are not "in it" with American "ladies" of similar occupations(?).</p><P>I should like to keep on and give the reader the full benefit of all that I have recorded in my diary concerning the doings of American and European society as it really is in Yokohama, Tokio, Kobe, Nagasaki, Shanghai, Cheefoo, Hong Kong, and other Oriental cities, but, in order to do justice to the subject, it would be necessary for me to take the reader back over a considerable portion of the distance that we have already traversed between New York and San Francisco.  As I said before, I considered it necessary to tell how I happened to come here before undertaking to reproduce what I have written in my memorandum book since my arrival; therefore, I will leave Oriental society to the naval officers, and give a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:very brief outline of the rest of the trip around the world.</p><P>I remained on the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: eight months after our arrival in Yokohama, during which time several cruises were made to the south of Japan, Formosa, China, Corea, and back to Yokohama, the headquarters of the Asiatic Squadron.  We spent some time at Chemulpo and Chee-Foo during the summer of '87.</p><P>In October I made application to Captain Jewell for permission to return to America.  My reason for desiring to come home was that my enlistment would expire in November.  The <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: at that time was at Nagasaki, Japan.  My application having been approved of by Admiral Chandler, I was duly detached from the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: on the 8th of October, 1887, with orders to proceed to Yokohama and take the first American mail steamer for San Francisco, and report to Captain J. W. Philip on board the receiving ship <HI REND="italics">Independence</HI>
108.sgm:, at the Mare Island Navy Yard, California, from whence I was to return to New York to stand my final examination before leaving the Training Squadron.</p><P>Just as I was leaving the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm:, who should come on board but our old friend Mr. Wadham! He was surprised, he said, to see me going home before the cruise of the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: was finished, and, as he bade me good-by and wished me a pleasant voyage, he expressed a regret that he was not going home also.  I am sure that he meant it, for the crew of the <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn</HI>
108.sgm:, the admiral's flagship, was more violently opposed to amateur prayer-meetings than the boys of the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: had been.  Ensign Hoggett, Mr. Wadham's old first assistant, and afterward successor, in the deep-sea sounding expedition, was the officer of the deck when I left the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm:, and he, too, said that he wouldn't mind going back to a civilized country.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>On the 10th of October I left Nagasaki on the United States steamer <HI REND="italics">Palos</HI>
108.sgm:, and on the 14th we arrived in Yokohama, where I had to wait several days for the mail steamer.  This gave me a chance to go around and say good-by to my friends, and visit Tokio, the capital and largest city in Japan.</p><P>At nine o'clock in the morning of October 19, 1887, I went aboard the Pacific Mail steamship <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>The steamer was moored to her buoy all ready for sea, and was only waiting for the sailing hour to arrive.  Mr. Greathouse, the American consul- general, came aboard with some final business instructions to the captain, and to wish us a pleasant voyage.</p><P>Promptly at ten o'clock Captain Searle stepped up on the bridge and waved his hand to the first officer up on the bow.</p><P>"Aye, aye, sir!" answered Mr. T. P. Deering, as he ordered the boatswain to "let go."</p><P>"Hard-a-port," said the captain on Quartermaster Rufus Dixon; and he gave the engine-room gong a quick pull at the same time.</p><P>In response to the signal the ponderous engines began to work, and the big steamer, in obedience to her helm, swung slowly around until her prow was pointed toward  Honmoku lightship, when the captain gave the order, "Steady as you go."</p><P>Three blasts of the steam whistle and a dip of our flag announced the departure of the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: from Yokohama.  Passing slowly out of the harbor, we soon rounded the lightship, when the captain gave the order to "go ahead full speed," and away we went.  Down the Gulf of Tokio, past Kanan-saki, past Sagami, and we were out upon the Pacific.  At two o'clock we passed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Cape King, and headed up in a northeasterly direction.  This indicated that we were taking the Great Circle course for San Francisco.</p><P>That evening, as I stood on deck and watched the sun go down behind the dim outlines of Fuji-Yama, I realized that I was homeward bound.  Some time before I left the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: I had received a very encouraging letter from <illus entity="a108-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The ill-fated <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:Mr. Herbert Van Dyke, a prominent attorney of New York, assuring me that he would put me into a good position just as soon as I completed my course in the navy.  I had received another still more substantial letter from Mr. Henry P. Marshall, cashier of the Seamen's Bank for Savings, 74-76 Wall Street, New York, informing me that certain remittances that I had sent from different parts of the world had all been received and credited to the account which I had opened with the bank some time before leaving New York.  Naturally I felt pretty well satisfied with prospects that the future seemed to have in store for me.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Nothing that seemed to be of any importance transpired during the voyage across the pacific, outside of the usual daily routine of life on board a passenger steamer.  There were very few passengers on the ship, besides a couple of hundred Chinese down in the steerage.  As there were no nice young ladies on board to talk to, I passed most of the time during the voyage with my books.  Occasionally I would have a few minutes' conversation with Mr. Deering, the first officer, and the genial Dr. Seymour, the surgeon.  We experienced good weather during the greater part of the voyage, and everything went along as smoothly as could be expected.</p><P>On the morning of the 4th of November we sighted Point Reyes Lighthouse, on the coast of California.  Continuing on our course, we soon fell in a pilot-boat when we stopped and took a harbor pilot on board, and headed for Fort Point.</p><P>Just as we were entering the Golden Gate, Dr. Seymour came up to me, and said he would like to have a few words with me.  Supposing that the doctor wanted to tell me how to have a good time in San Francisco, I joined him, and we walked up toward the smoking room.  Dr. Seymour was a man of very few words.  He first asked me what I meant to do after leaving the navy.  Upon my telling him that I had taken a course of training that would enable me to fill a position in the merchant marine service, he said that he was glad to hear it.  Then he informed me that he and the first officer had been talking about offering me a position on the ship, and he surprised me by telling me that if I wold like to take a position on the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:, all that I had to do was to say so.</p><P>I thanked the doctor for his friendly interest in my welfare, and told him that I could not take any position <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:just then, because I had to go on to New York before I could get my discharge from the navy.</p><P>Then the doctor told me that if I could possible arrange it at Mare Island so that I could get my discharge without going to New York, it would be to my advantage to do so.  I had a talk with Mr. Deering then, and that gentleman reiterated what the doctor had said, and added that if I could get my discharge at Mare Island, I could have the position of quartermaster.</p><P>While I was talking with the surgeon and Mr. Deering, Dr. McAllister, the health officer for the port of San Francisco, came alongside in the tugboat <HI REND="italics">Governor Perkins</HI>
108.sgm:, and climbed aboard.</p><P>After inspecting the passengers Dr. McAllister had a talk with Dr. Seymour, and then informed Captain Searle that he could go up to the wharf and land his passengers.</p><P>I shall never forget my first impressions of San Francisco.  Leaving my baggage on the steamer, I walked up the dock to make some inquiries concerning the boats and trains running between San Francisco and Mare Island.  Upon learning that I would have to wait over until the next day, I accepted an invitation from Charlie Elsasser, one of the junior officers of the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:, to go uptown with him.  Charlie is a native son and he is as bright and quick-witted as they make them.  Owing to his many good qualities he is what we term an all-round jolly, good fellow; and what he does not know about things in general around San Francisco amounts to very little.</p><P>The first thing I saw, as Charlie and I came out of the Pacific Mail dock gate at the junction of First and Brannan Streets and Mission Bay, were numbers of whisky and beer saloons and chop houses.  These drinking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a018-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MY FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SAN FRANCISCO.<LB>"The organization known as Mr. Greenway's 400 is composed of the sons and daughters of just such citizens as you see here," said Mr. Charles Elsasser.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:places were not like the halfway decent-looking lager beer saloons which are so conspicuous along Market and Kearney Streets, on account of the big "V" that adorns the door and front windows of the places where the dudes of the Cooke-Nosegrave-Mearns-Irving-Johnny Powers free lunch <HI REND="italics">cliques</HI>
108.sgm: are generally to be found nearly at the time.  They were low, filthy-looking places, with vulgar signs on their windows which read "Steam Beer, five cents."</p><P>The men standing around in front of these places were in every way in keeping with the general appearance of their surroundings; tough-looking citizens with their dilapidated old hats all knocked in, and the buttons all gone off their ragged, greasy and beer-stained old clothes.  Some of these old drunks were Greeks, some were Scandinavians, some were Dutchmen and Germans, while there were others who had upper lips showing a frontage of three or four inches between the noses and the openings that they poured their steam beer into--ugly, vicious-looking old hodcarriers they were.</p><P>There were some females standing in the doors of these vile places, great, flabby, vulgar-looking specimens of femininity, with filthy little children hanging on to their skirts.  The background for this scene was the south side of Rincon Hill, which can be seen to good advantage only from the Mail dock gate.  Upon the side of the hill were the residences of the Mail dock stevedores, with numerous dogs and goats prowling around.</p><P>The above-described scene did not surprise me in the least, for everybody knows what kind of inhabitants are to be found around the wharves and slums of all large cities.  But when Charlie told me that the so-called high society of San Francisco, the society that we read of in Mr. Greenway's reports, was made up of the sons and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:daughters of just such people as these, I must confess that I <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
108.sgm: surprised.</p><P>Charlie went on to tell me that the part of San Francisco now known as Nob Hill, or Snob Hill, where the leading parvenus of the city have built big houses, was a regular wilderness forty years ago, and that some of the people who live up there now came to San Francisco in early days,--about the time that gold was discovered in California,--and opened up just such vile "joints" as those in the slums of Tar Flat.  But gold was plentiful in those days, and the saloon- keepers, gamblers, and keepers of disorderly houses had very little difficulty in accumulating stockings full of it.  The most successful of these saloon-keepers were those who had women about their grog shops to dish out the soup and free lunch to the old miners who came to the city, fresh from the mines, with their wallets full of gold dust.  The more lewd and vulgar the women they had about their free-lunch counters, the more patronage they got from the ancestors of the Parvenucracy.  Many of those early day "gin-mill" keepers purchased large blocks of city real estate, and even gold mines, with the proceeds of the whisky that their "wives" served out over the bars of the drink.  One of these, Flood by name, is said to have accumulated enough to build a brown-stone house and still have several millions left over.  Fair, O'Connor, and O'Brien were among other names that were mentioned.</p><P>As we walked up Third Street to Market, the city began to look better.  Still those old wooden shanties, within a stone's throw of the Palace Hotel, plainly showed that San Francisco was a very young city, and that  its architectural appearance, as well as the past records of many of its "prominent" citizens, would have to be remodeled in order to bring the city up to a level with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:the present state of civilization in some other parts of America.</p><P>As we walked on down toward the Appraisers' building, Charlie told me that all part of the city from Montgomery Street down the Oakland ferry landings was "made land."  There was originally an arm of the bay extending up as far as the place where the Occidental Hotel now stands.</p><P>A mental glimpse of the village of San Francisco as it appeared forty-eight years ago is all that is necessary to conform the statements of the native sons and daughters who take such pride in telling strangers how their fathers built up the present city.  When the United States sloop-of-war <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
108.sgm: arrived here, in 1846, she found a few rudely constructed <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
108.sgm: houses standing around on the sand dunes.  There were scarcely forty houses in the whole settlement.  These included residences, custom house, warehouse, school, church, hotel, bar room, and calaboose.  This latter, no doubt, proved indispensable to the citizens whenever a man-of-war came into port.  The <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
108.sgm: anchored somewhere in the vicinity of Sacramento and Davis Streets, about where the storehouse of H. Dutard, the "bean king," now stands.  All that part of the city from Montgomery Street to the ferries, and from the base of Telegraph Hill for some distance south toward Market Street, was at that time a cove, which afforded anchorage for vessels.  As the city grew up, this cove was gradually filled in with all sorts of rubbish.  For years it was used as a free dump, into which was deposited all the <HI REND="italics">d&eacute;bris</HI>
108.sgm: of the rapidly increasing city--such as the ordinary garbage that accumulates in back yards; dead cats and dogs, and all other malodorous substances, including, I venture to say, a few quacks, like Colson; shysters, like Cannon;<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:street-corner orators like O'Donnell and Dennis Kearney; prize fighters like Jackson and Sullivan; fanatics like Harriet Beecher and General Booth, S. A.; bum actors like Rankin and Steve Brodie; dramatic critics like seedy Peter Robertson; "spiritualists" like Mrs. Charles Fair; card sharps like the "Fruit Pickers"; fake society reporters like Cooke, Cosgrave, Greenway, Hume, and the Little Tumble-bug Irving--in fact, offensive and useless things of every description were thrown in to help fill up.</p><P>On top of all this bologna-sausage and oleomargarine mixture the good citizens who favored the advancement of civilization piled the sand and gravel brought down from the hills as they graded the streets.  Thus the ground upon which the greater portion of the wholesale houses of the city now stands is "made land," indeed.  Considering certain portions of the material used, the stranger should not blame the commission merchants for all the variety of odors which arise from that part of the Pacific Slope metropolis.</p></DIV>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>On the 5th of November, 1887, the day after my arrival in San Francisco, I went up to Mare Island and reported on board the U. S. S.  <HI REND="italics">Independence</HI>
108.sgm:, and made application a day later to Captain J. W. Philip, for my discharge from the navy.</p><P>The captain said that it was against the rules and regulations of the Navy Department to discharge apprentices on the Pacific Coast, but he would telegraph to Washington and see what he could do for me.  Walking over to his desk, Captain Phillip wrote out a telegram and, handling it to me, he said:  "Take this up to Admiral Belknap and tell him that I told you to ask him to approve it."<ANCHOR> *</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><P>I did as the captain instructed me.  Going up to the admiral's house, I rang the door bell and the butler let me in.  The admiral spoke very encouragingly to me, and besides approving the telegram, he gave me some good advice,--for which I am very thankful,--and then ordered the coxswain of his private steam barge to take me over to Vallejo in order that I might send the telegram off right away.  This special courtesy from the admiral just prior to my promotion was appreciated.</p><NOTE>* Admiral Belknap retired from the Navy in the year 1892, after having spent about forty-six years of his life in the service of the country.  He resides with his family at his home on Beacon Street, Brookline, Mass.  He bears the distinction of having fired the last hostile shot at Fort Sumter.</NOTE>
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108.sgm:<P>A few minutes later the young lady operator at Vallejo sent the following message over the wires:</p><P>MARE ISLAND NAVY YARD, CAL.,</p><P>November 7, 1887.</p><P><HI REND="italics">To Chief of bureau of Equipment and Recruiting, Navy Dept.,<LB>Washington, D.C.</HI>
108.sgm:</p><P>Respectfully request that W. H. Chambliss be given his discharge here to enable him to take an officer's position on Mail Steamer.  He waives all claims to transportation East.  Please answer soon as possible.  Steamer sails soon.  Chambliss' enlistment is out.</p><P>(Signed)<HSEP>COMMANDER PHILIP.</p><P>(Approved) BELKNAP,<LB>Commandant.</p><P>The next morning Captain Philip sent his orderly to tell me to come into his cabin.  I had read a great deal of nature's own noblemen, and had heard certain people spoken as such, but when I left the <HI REND="italics">Independence</HI>
108.sgm: that afternoon for San Francisco, it was with a firm conviction that I had met one in the person of Captain J. W. Phillp, USN. I still think so. It was not on account of the great favor that the captain did for me that made me form such an exalted opinion of him; it was his highly refined and courteous manner, and his manly way of saying and doing things. Having informed me that he had just received a telegram from the Navy Department at Washington granting my request for discharge the captain proceeded to give me some good advice. which I shall never forget.</p><P>No man could make a mistake in acting on any advice that Captain Philip might favor him with.  He went on to tell me that frankness and truthfulness were among the first qualifications of a gentleman, and that if a person would make up his mind to be perfectly natural and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HANDWRITTEN>faithfully yours<LB>Geo. E. Belknap</HANDWRITTEN>
108.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">Rear Admiral, U.S.N. (retired)</HI>
108.sgm:.<LB>"When a foreigner who has only been in this country a few years says that he has as much right here as a native-born citizen, I deny it."-Belknap.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:straightforward in all things, and stick to it, nothing could prevent him from getting along in the world.</p><P>After paying me a compliment that I could not repeat here for fear of being called egotistical, Captain Philip informed me that he had recently commanded the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: -- in fact, had brought her out to San Francisco from Philadelphia, by way of Cape Horn, when she was a new ship. He considered her one of the best ships under the American flag, and he congratulated me on being so fortunate as to get a position on her along with "so courteous a gentleman as Captain Searle."</p><P>Captain Philip then shook hands with me and bade me good-by. Then I walked over the gangway of the <HI REND="italics">Independence,</HI>
108.sgm: and stepped down into the steam launch, and out of the service of the United States Navy, a full grown American citizen.</p><P>Crossing over to Vallejo, I boarded the steamer <HI REND="italics">Julia</HI>
108.sgm:,and was soon on my way to San Francisco. While I was glad to be out of the navy, I had no regrets for having served three years and three months under the commands of such refined gentlemen as Captain Arthur R. Yates, Captain Silas Terry, Captain Theodore F. Jewell, and Captain Philip.</p><P>The next morning, November 9,1887, I reported for duty to First Officer T. P. Deering on board the steamship <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:,was immediately appointed to the position of quartermaster.</p><P>The principal duty of a quartermaster of an ocean steamer is to steer the ship. One of the quartermasters must be at the wheel all the time at sea.</p><P>While the steamer is in port, the duties of the quartermaster correspond with the duties of an ensign on a man-of-war of the second class-that is, he stands the deck watches and looks out for the ship at night.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>At sea, as well as in port, the quartermaster is in a position to see and hear a good deal more that goes on among the passengers than even the captain.  He can't help hearing and seeing, no matter how distasteful some things may be.  As he is only a junior officer, the passengers are not so particular about how they act in his presence as they generally are when one of the higher officers or the captain is round.  I once asked an old see captain--I do not mean Captain Searle--why he had never married, and his reply was that while he was quartermaster he had seen so much of the carryings-on of married ladies traveling without their husbands, that he had decided to stay single until he got able to give up going to sea, so that he could live on shore.  The old sinner argued that since the wives of gentlemen who live on shore act so funny as soon as they get on board ship and out of sight of their husbands, it stands to reason that a sea captain's wife left on shore would to the same thing during her husband's absence.</p><P>The more I saw of the married portion of the traveling public,--and I have seen a great deal--especially ladies who go off on sea voyages while their husbands are toiling sway in their offices, the more I thought of what the old captain said about them; and the more I think, the more thoroughly convinced do I become that there was a good deal of sound logic in his words, even if it did sound a little crude.  It is a mistake for a seafaring man to get married and go off to sea, leaving his wife in San Francisco.</p><P>It is bad enough when these men have homes of their own to leave their wives at during their absence; but when it comes to leaving a young wife in one of those Pine Street or Sutter Street "family" boarding houses, among the "fruit-pickers," while the husband <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:goes off to China or Australia for a two months' voyage, it is enough to distress the most indifferent husband in the world.</p><P>It would seem that no married man could live a more unsatisfactory life, or be placed in a position that would render him more unhappy, than he who runs between San Francisco and distant foreign ports, while his wife stops all alone in a boarding house, such as the Vella Blista.</p><P>Incredible as it may seem to the uninitiated, there are others who are worse off twenty time over, in this respect, than the ordinary steamship men.  Those others are the naval officers who go off on long cruises, and are sometimes separated from their wives  and children for periods of three years at a time.  I heard a young man, prominent in San Francisco society, give a touching illustration of the uncertainty of this sort of life not long ago.  Although the young man did not mean to betray any of the little secrets that his mother may have intrusted to his keeping, his own words will serve to confirm the general opinion of the public concerning the inadvisability of those long separations.</p><P>It happened at a large dinner party at the Palace Hotel.  After several speeches had been made by other distinguished guests, the young man in question was called upon.  He responded very promptly, and entertained the party at least ten minutes by relating the history of the wonderful military achievements of his father, who was captain in the navy.  He finally concluded his narrative by stating that he was born at the close of the Civil War, and that at the time of his birth his "father" nd mother had not seen each other in four years.</p><P>To my esteemed friends who go to sea for a living, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:wish to offer this piece of friendly advice:  Don't get married unless you can live on shore with your wife.</p><P>If you feel that you must get married, anyhow, for God's sake give up going to sea, unless you have a home of your own for your poor wife to live in during your absence.</p></DIV>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>When I accepted the position on the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:, it was my intention to make one voyage to Japan and China and then return to my home in the South.</p><P>I never had the remotest ida of remaining in the Pacific Mail services as long as I did.</p><P>On the 19th of November I sailed from San Francisco on my first voyage as quartermaster.  Instead of going on East as I had intended to do, here I was going right back to China again, and in the very same ship that I came over on.  This goes to show how little it takes sometimes to change the course of a person's whole life.  Had anybody told me when I was leaving Yokohama, on the 19th of October that I would return within two months' time, I should have laughed at the idea.</p><P>After a stormy voyage of twenty days we arrived at Yokohama on the 10th of December.</p><P>Three days later we sailed for Hong Kong, and arrived at that port on the 19th.</p><P>In just eight days from the time of our arrival at Hong Kong, we were on our way back home, having in that time discharged our cargo of flour, and reloaded the ship with tea, silk, rice, hemp, and a general assortment of other Chinese merchandise, in addition to which we brought about six hundred Chinese passengers in the steerage.</p><P>The mail steamers plying between San Francisco and Hong King call at Yokohama going and returning.  When we called there on the 5th of January, 1888, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:noticed among the large fleet of ships in the harbor the old <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>As soon as I was off watch I got into a <HI REND="italics">sampam</HI>
108.sgm: and went on board the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm: to see my old friends and shipmates.  No one recognized me at first, in my brand new Pacific Mail uniform with brass buttons and regulation cap.</p><P>Whenever a stranger goes on board a man-of-war everybody wants to know who he is.  As soon as the boys found out who I was, their curiosity to learn how I got back to Yokohama so soon, and how I happened to be rigged up in a brass-bound uniform, was so great that they crowded around me as if I had just been restored from the dead.  Of course I had to give an account of myself from the time that I left the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm:, at Nagasaki.  When I told them all about it, and added that I was in the line of promotion in the largest steamship company under the American flag, the last one of them vowed that they would go into the merchant service as soon as their enlistments expired.</p><P>Then Mr. Frank, the master-at-arms, cam up, and, informing me that Mr. Galloway wanted to see me, took me down into the wardroom where the officers were.  Besides Mr. Galloway, there were Mr. Fechteler, Mr. Poundstone, and Dr. Hawke sitting around the mess table in the wardroom.  These gentlemen were as much surprised to see me as the boys had been.  They all remembered me as soon as they heard my name.</p><P>Mr. Galloway, who had succeeded to the important position of navigating officer of the <HI REND="italics">Essex</HI>
108.sgm:, vice Lieutenant Wadham, was very much interested; so much so that he made me tell him about my new position, how I got it, how I like it, and how much salary I received.  In the meantime Dr. Hawke had rung the bell for the steward,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:and presently that dignitary appeared on the scene with a tray of glasses and a big bottle of good old bourbon.</p><P>Dr. Hawke said that he had been a surgeon in the navy for a great many years, and that after experimenting with all the different medicines that he had ever heard of, he had come to the conclusion, that for ordinary complaints a little whiskey was the best thing that a man could take.  He said that it was a big mistake, however, to drink it straight, as nearly all New York and San Francisco boys do.  Whiskey should invariably be taken in water.  "An ordinary drink in half a tumbler full of water," said the doctor, "not only tones up the digestive organs, but it kills all the microbes and other dangerous impurities in the water.</p><P>After a round of drinks, the doctor went on to express his opinion of other beverages, such as champagne and "society punches."  He said that it was a waste of time, and a useless expenditure of money, to drink champagne, and he considered the vile punches that society people drink at swell receptions worse than any other kind of drunkard's drinks that he had ever tasted.  Some of those punches are enough to drive an ordinary man insane.  The only reason why the dudes are not all raving maniacs, from the effects of what they get to drink in "society." is because idiots can't go crazy.</p><P>All the rest of the officers agreed with the doctor, for the time being, at least; and to convince him that they considered whisky the proper thing for gentlemen to drink, they drained the last drop out of his bottle, after which I bade the gentlemen good-night and returned to my own ship.</p><P>The next day I made some calls on some of my acquaintances on shore, and met the sanctimonious "Reverend" Henry Lamest, who devotes his time to collecting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:butterflies instead of preaching to the "heathen," as he is paid to do by the American Bible Society, a business institution which has  branch store in Yokohama.</p><P>We sailed from Yokohama on the 8th of January.  One of our cabin passengers died the following morning.  She was not a society lady by any means, but nevertheless she had a great many "friends" among the "society" swells of San Francisco.  Perhaps the mention of her name will remind certain prominent members of the Bohemian, the Olympic, and the Pacific Union clubs of many a pleasant little midnight coaching party from a certain Ellis Street establishment to the Cliff House; for among her baggage were photographs of several prominent members of the above mentioned clubs.  How she got those photographs I will ask the reader to decide.</p><P>The woman's name was Dolly Adams, better known as the Water Queen; and the establishment that she received her distinguished "friends" in was similar to the notorious Stockton Street establishment formerly kept by Maud Nelson, who is now Mrs. Charles Fair.  I make no apology to the reader for using the name of such a character as Maud Nelson, because she has married into a set that ranks among the most presumptuous and arrogant parvenus of American.  When she married Charlie Fair, and took him off to Europe on a bridal tour on the income from the Stockton Street house, she became the daughter-in-law of ex-Senator James G. Fair, and the sister-in-law of Mr. and Mrs. Herman Oelrichs, of newspaper society "fame."</p><P>The reading public knows very well how the names of Mr. and Mrs. Herman Oelrichs, and the rest of the Fair Crowd, have been boldly flaunted in the papers to let people know that they had lunched or dined with some other member of the same "set" that they belong to.  And I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A TYPE OF THE TOUGH SWELL.<LB>Very abundant in the Olympic Club, San Francisco.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:suppose we will soon learn that Mr. and Mrs. Charlie Fair are being entertained by members of the same vulgar set. Are they not birds of a feather, and are they not eligible to membership in the Friday Night Cotillion Club, provided that they can raise the necessary five dollars to hand over to Mr. Greenway for their admission to the dance hall?</p><P>If Mr. and Mrs. C. P. Huntington, Mr. and Mrs J. L. Flood, Mr. and Mrs. C. E. Paxton, Mr. and Mrs. M. H. de Young, Mrs. V. Spalding, Mr. and Mrs. Wise and others of that stripe are eligible, I see no reason why poor, much-abused Charlie and Maud should be excluded.  I merely speak of this because I believe in fair play.</p><P>If the escapade of young Charlie Fair is not a repetition of history, I should like to know what you would have me call it.  When such creatures as those can pose before the public in the society columns of the papers as representatives of California polite society, it is time for reputable citizens to keep out of print, except to protest against such "journalism" and such "journalists" as would permit such foul names to appear in a society report and on a basis of equality with pure, innocent girls.</p><P>We did not bury Dolly Adams at sea.  Dr. Frank S. Sutton embalmed the body, and placed it in a Chinese wooden cofffin, and brought it on to San Francisco, where it was turned over to some charitable institution for burial.</p><P>On our way home from Yokohama we called at Honolulu, on the 19th of January, to land several hundred Chinese contract laborers that we had in the steerage for Spreckels' sugar plantation in the Hawaiian Islands.</p><P>Owing to the fact that the smallpox was raging at Hong Kong, from which port we brought those Chinese laborers, the authorities at Honolulu refused to allow us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:to land either passengers or freight at that port; consequently we had to bring the whole load on up to San Francisco.</p><P>Upon our arrival here on the 27th we were immediately placed in quarantine by Dr. McAllister (this gentleman is no relation of the late society leader, Ward), who ordered us to anchor over at the Angel Island quarantine station.</p><P>On the 3d of February all our steerage passengers and Chinese crew were placed on board the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:, an old United States man-of-war that William, Dimond &amp; Company, the Pacific' Mail agents, had chartered for a quarantine ship.  The cabin passengers were permitted to land.  The <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm: was then towed over toward Hunter's Point, and anchored off Butchertown, from whence the delightful odors that arise from the slaughter-houses were continually wafted by the strong breezes that sweep across the Potrero Flats.</p><P>Captain Searle also transferred all his officers and engineers, except First Officer Deering, Chief Engineer Hurlihy, Freight Clerk Neill, and Dr. Sutton from the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: to the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:, along with the six hundred quarantined Chinese.  Of course we were not mixed in among the Chinese.  The old quarantine ship had been prepared expressly for the occasion.  We were comfortably domiciled in the cabin, and the whole forward part of the ship was occupied by the Chinese.  To insure us additional security from the smallpox, a high bulkhead, or plank wall, was built across the spar deck just forward of the cabin door, and no Chinese except our cooks and servants were allowed to come aft in our part of the ship.</p><P>Aside from the unpleasantness of being compelled to remain on board ship in the harbor of San Francisco,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. AND MRS. CHAS. L. FAIR.<LB>(Nee Maud Nelson of Stockton Street) recently admitted to membership in the Friday Night Parvenucracy.<LB><HI REND="italics">By permission of The Wasp</HI>
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108.sgm:without the privilege of getting ashore at all, and the danger of catching the smallpox from the infected Chinese, life in quarantine was not quite so bad as one might have been led to suppose.  We had enough interesting characters on board the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm: to relieve the monotony of the daily routine enough to render life worth living, if only to study certain peculiar natures.</p><P>Second Officer James M. Dow, better known in the Pacific Mail service as "the Little Fellow," a title that Quartermaster Ahman had given him on account of his small stature, was in command; and his staff officers were Third Officer Lewis B. Park, Dr. Hunter, Engineer Charlie Elsasser, Mr. Crane, a special night watchman, and Quartermasters Ward, Dixon, Lindholm, and myself.  Mr. Dow was one of the most extraordinary captains in his way that I ever served under.  The quarantine ship was his first command, and he realized the importance of his position as much as if he had been in command of the <HI REND="italics">Charleston</HI>
108.sgm:.  He did not seem to fancy the idea of being considered unsociable, but at the same time he gave the rest of us to distinctly understand that he was captain of the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:.  He sat at the head of the table with as much dignity as Jere Lynch presenting a fake Eqyptian mummy to the Bohemian Club, and related his own version of his wonderful exploits with as straight a face as "General" (?) W. H. L. Barnes could command in telling to a crowd of other not over-credulous fabricating bum Bohemians of his own ilk, how he (the "general") had vanquished two "murderous footpads," who afterward turned out to be two quiet servants of the club, who were detailed to escort the "general" home after the latter had got into an argument with somebody at the club.</p><P>I hope I may be pardoned for diverging from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:re gular course of my narrative in order to relate a little bit of history concerning so prominent a personage as the "general."  I should think that Mr. de Young would use his influence with the gentlemen who rent offices in the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm: building, and try and persuade them to do less gossiping about certain other tenants of the same building who sometimes go broke.  Those little differences between landlords and tenants, which arise out of such frequent occurrence among <HI REND="italics">lawyers of a certain class</HI>
108.sgm: that polite landlords positively refuse to discuss them.  If a tenant forgets to pay his rent for several months, it is the duty of the obliging landlord to remind the delinquent tenant, and not the public, of the indebtedness; at least that is what I have been told by gentlemen who have had experience in such matters.  Therefore, I fail to see any reason why the case of "General" Barnes should be made an exception to this rule.  Mr de Young, with all his wealth, ought to feel proud to have as a tenant a prominent Bohemian "General," who after getting into a discussion over a little matter of an overdue poker "I.O.U.," or some such trivial thing, could make the unsuspecting portion of the entire newspaper-reading public believe that he had been regularly waylaid and sandbagged by professional footpads.</p><P>The public will remember the ridiculous story, published in the papers, accompanied with pictures of the deadly sandbag and midnight assassin mask that the "general" said he captured from his assailants.  The Chief of Police took up the case on his own hook, so to speak, and placed detectives on the tracks of the "footpads."  In due time a man was arrested and identified as one of the persons who was seen coming from the direction of the "general's" house about the time the assault<illus entity="a108-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. W. S. BARNES, THE "GENERAL'S"<LB>MODEST BOY<LB>"What of it if I <HI REND="italics">am</HI>
108.sgm: young?  Wouldn't I make a better Governor than Old Hoodoo Estee?"-- <HI REND="italics">Billy in the Wave</HI>
108.sgm:<LB> (at so much per line).  <HI REND="italics">Recommended for the free dump.</HI>
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108.sgm:was reported by the "general" to have been made.  Simultaneously with the report of the arrest of the supposed footpad, the whole affair was dropped, the same as Downey Harvey would drop a hot <HI REND="italics">tamale</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>The question naturally arose as to why the "general" declined to prosecute the "footpad," after he had been duly "run down" and arrested while at work at his honest occupation.</p><P>A prominent citizen answers the question about as follows:  "Rats!  That man was no footpad.  He was simply one of the two Bohemian Club waiters who were detailed to take the `general' home after the <HI REND="italics">seance</HI>
108.sgm:."</p><P>I do not say that Barnes never was a real general, but can anybody tell me how, when, or where on earth he got his title?  Was he general manager of some concern?  or was he a director general of some National Guard campaign?</p><P>I have several friends who were in the Seventh New York, the regiment that the "general" "commanded" during the ware between the North and South, and they ought to know something about the officer who really commanded it.</p><P>General T. B. Bunting was a captain in the Seventh New York, and he says that the regiment was commanded by one Colonel Smedberg who although he was a full-fighting colonel in the army, has never been able to obtain a higher rank since he left the service.  I think that Colonel Smedberg ought to be able to give some information about Bartnes' military rank.</p><P>General Bunting got his title from President Barrios of Guatemala, and he would like to know how Barnes got promoted from the rank of corporal to that of general at one big jump.  During the course of a discussion of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Barnes' phenomenal rise in military titles one day, a mutual acquaintance handed me a big book entitled "History of the 7th New York Regiment."  There, in plain English, was the startling and unkind information that Mr. Barnes actually got up as high as the position of corporal in the United States Army.  But that is an honorable position.  A corporal might be just as much of a gentleman as a real general, if he possessed the requisite natural instincts.</p><P>Sometimes people come by their titles in very peculiar ways.  I know a man in Mississippi who is called Colonel de Salt Patterson.  I asked old man Joe Phillips of Tillman, to tell me how the "colonel" got his title.  Mr. Phillips is an old resident of Claiborne County, and he is well liked by his friends.</p><P>"Well, William," said Mr. Phillips, "so long as your father was a warm personal friend of mine, I will tell you all about it.</p><P>"When Grant laid siege to Vicksburg," continued Mr. Phillips, "and cut off our line of supplies, salt became very scarce in our vicinity, because we had been getting what we needed shipped up the Mississippi by steamer.  All the neighbors got together and raised a large amount of money, and employed Colonel Patterson, who was at that time only a private citizen, to go to Louisiana to buy salt.  Patterson started off on the expedition with the money, and did not return until the close of the war, when he explained that he been captured by one of Grant's foraging parties and taken off to prison.  Patterson's initials were 'D. S..'  When your father heard the yarn, he at once commenced calling him 'De Salt,' and, in order that he might be in the fashion, I dubbed him 'colonel,' since which time he has been known as 'Colonel de Salt Patterson.'"</p><illus entity="a108-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GENERAL THOMAS B. BUNTING.<LB>A genial retired army officer, residing near Santa Cruz, Cal. Formerly a Captain in the 7th New York,--the regiment that Barnes did not command.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:<P>Occasionally a man will receive a title from sharpers who take this means of working on his vanity.  I know something about titles of this kind myself, and since I am giving my experience for the benefit of the public, I will tell you how I happened to be called "captain" for a few evenings only.</p></DIV>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>THIS is how it happened:  A crowd of enterprising young men who conducted a private poker game for "friends only," on the top floor of the very "quiet and highly respectable" boarding house at 905 Sutter Street, heard that I had saved up about a thousand dollars with which to defray the expenses of a proposed Eastern vacation; and they decided among themselves that they could invest this money to a better advantage than I could.</p><P>I had been introduced to one of these young men by a relative of his, who was well known in San Francisco and in the Sonoma Valley as a school teacher, and is still better known now on account of her having figured largely in the divorce courts and daily papers in the spring of 1893.  Therefore, when the young man showed a disposition to continue my acquaintance on a chance introduction of this kind, i naturally supposed, as anyone else would under the circumstances, that it was all right.</p><P>It was not very long before I received an invitation from my new acquaintance to call upon him at his chambers in the boarding house above mentioned.  When I called, he greeted me as if he had known me all my life:  "I am delighted to see you, captain; come right up to my rooms, and take off your overcoat, and make yourself at home," said my extraordinary host; and before I had time to catch my breath to request him to call me plain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:"Mister," instead of captain, he ushered me into a pleasant looking suite of apartments, and introduced me to several of his guests, who were sitting around the room.  The most starting episode of this occasion was the manner in which he introduced me:  "Gentlemen," said my distinguished host to his colleagues, "allow me to present you to my friend, Captain Fruit-tree, of whom I was just speaking when the doorbell rang.  Captain, permit me to present you to my friends of whom I was telling you at the ball."  Then (aside to me in a whisper as I was taking off my coat) he said, "These gentlemen are fruit-pickers."</p><P>I had always had an idea that "fruit-pickers" were persons who worked in orchards; and it struck me at first as rather strange that young horticulturists who gathered apples, oranges, prunes, and other California fruits for a living should wear swallow-tailed coats and diamonds when making an ordinary evening call on a gentleman friend.  And then these "fruit-pickers" were so affable and courteous that I felt sorry for having for one instant imagined that they were ordinary dressed up farm laborers.  Subsequently I felt sorry for the farm laborers.</p><P>I supposed, of course, that the "fruit-pickers" would tell me all about picking plums, grapes, and the more delicate fruits which are so abundant in this State, (I knew that such sweet- scented dudes could never compete with the Chinese in picking the coarser and more vulgar fruits, such as watermelons, pumpkins, and squashes,) but they did nothing of the kind, and I did not feel like asking such "polished" young men whether they picked prunes and strawberries at so much per bushel, or whether they worked by the day, week, or month.  It was after dinner, and we were all in evening <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:dress; and it is very bad form, you know, to talk "shop" after a gentleman doffs his rough working clothes and dons his tailor-made suit of that hue and fashionable cut which polite society ordains that all well-bred gentlemen shall wear after the business of the day has been laid aside for the peaceful enjoyment of an evening with friends.  The "fruit-pickers" talked about everything except their occupation.  They never said one word about fruit of any kind.</p><P>A nice plate of pears and apricots stood among the decanters of wine and bottles of "O.P.S." and Bethesda water on the sideboard, but, although i was invited to sample the liquid refreshments, my host never once asked me to have a plum.</p><P>When the conversation about balls, parties, charity high teas, and the latest parvenu divorce scandals began to grow less and less interesting, my host expressed a regret that a high regard for good form prevented him from inviting a few of his "lady friends" in to enliven the occasion with a little music; and, just by way of an apology for the lack of musical talent, he suggested a little game of poker, "just to while away the time, you know."</p><P>One of the "fruit-pickers" declared that his knowledge of the game was limited, and I felt called upon to offer the same excuse; but our courteous host soon made us feel quite at ease with this ingenious and somewhat humorous little speech:</p><P>"Why, the idea!" said he.  "We are not going to play for money; but we play <HI REND="italics">with</HI>
108.sgm: a small amount each, just to add interest to the game, and, as our experience is limited, we will limit the game.  Gentlemen never play <HI REND="italics">for</HI>
108.sgm: money; they only play <HI REND="italics">with</HI>
108.sgm: it."</p><P>That settled the question, and my courteous host<illus entity="a108-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THIS IS HOW IT HAPPENED, OR HOW I LEARNED TO PLAY POKER.<LB>"Captain, permit me to present you to the "fruit pickers,: said my distinguished host.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:invited me to take the "lucky" seat between himself and his trusted first assistant card manipulator.  He then produced a "deck" of brand new cards, and red, white, and blue poker chips enough to go around.</p><P>The host fixed the value of the chips at five cents for the whites, ten cents for the reds, and fifty cents for the blues.  Each  player purchased two dollars worth of chips to start in with, and the host's first assistant, who acted as banker, deposited the money in a cigar box, and then, after shuffling the cards and extracting the joker, he invited me to "cut for deal"; ace high and king next.  I drew a big red ace and got the opening "deal."</p><P>"Everybody <HI REND="italics">ante</HI>
108.sgm: up a white chip," said the host.  "The limit will be a blue chip, and no one will bet any more than that amount at one time."</p><P>By direction of my host, I dealt each "fruit-picker" five cards and the same number to myself.</p><P>After the "deal" all the "fruit-pickers" said "pass."  I supposed, of course, that they had reference to the bottles of O.P.S. and Bethesda; l but the host came to my rescue, like the courteous host that he was, and explained that the work "pass" only meant that the gentleman who said it did not wish to bet on his "hand" just then.  He further explained to me that since all the rest had "passed" it was my turn to speak.  If I had a hand that I could bet on, I could signify the same by "chipping in" a white one.  If I did not wish to "chip" I should gather up the cards and pass the "deck" to the man on my left; and I had the privilege of making it a "jack pot" if I chose.</p><P>"A jack pot," my affable host explained, "cannot be opened with anything less than a pair of jacks on the deal."  If no one got jacks or better before the "draw," the "deck" should be passed to the next man on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:left, who would shuffle the cards and deal them over.  This was called "progressive jack," and it progressed with each deal as follow:  Jacks or better on the first deal; queens or better on the second deal; kings or better on the third, and aces on the forth.  If no one got "openers" in four consecutive deals, the openers descended to jacks again.  This was an interesting game.  Each time that the "deck" passed for want of an opening hand, each "fruit-picker" and I threw a five-cent white chip into the pot.</p><P> After the deck had passed all around the table several times, and there were twelve or fifteen white chips in the pot, my host got the deal, and, shuffling the cards in the most approved <HI REND="italics">Banduria</HI>
108.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Friday Night</HI>
108.sgm: Cotillion Club fashion, dealt them.<ANCHOR> *</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE>*These two clubs have been largely advertised in the fake society news.  Their combined memberships amount to about four hundred persons, comprising the arch parvenu element of San Francisco.  According to Mr. Greeway the other 299,600 persons in the city are "the coarse, vulgar herd."</NOTE>
108.sgm: <P> I got three jacks before the "draw," and as it was my turn to speak, I opened the pot with a red chip.  Al the "fruit-pickers" chipped in and the dealer said "discard."  I discarded two, and all the rest discarded three except the dealer, who threw up his hand, declaring that he "couldn't see it."  I drew a pair of kings, which gave me beautiful "jack full," on which I bet two red beans.  One "fruit-picker" threw up his hand, and the other one "stayed in," and raised me to the full limit.  I called him and he showed me three aces and reached his hand out as if rake in the pot.</p><P> "Hold on, jack!" said the dealer; "the captain may have a better hand than you have."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P> "Oh, beg pardon!" said jack; "what have you got, captain?  Show your Hand."</p><P> I showed my jack full on kings.</p><P> "Ah, Jack, my boy," said the dealer, "that's the time you burned your fingers!  Captain, the pot is yours; take it in."</p><P> I was now beginning to think that I knew how to play poker.</p><P> "A jack full in a progressive jack pot calls for a round of drinks," declared Jack, as he gracefully laid down his "beaten" hand and pushed the pot over toward me.</p><P> "let us sample a little of Sprunace, Stanley &amp; Co's Old Kentucky."</p><P> "What's the matter with sampling Cartan, Mcarthy &amp; Co.'s O.P.S., Jack?" asked the host, who was always addressed either as "Hal," or "old man."</p><P> "Oh, hurry up, boys, I'm getting thirsty!  Give me a little O.P.S. and Bethesda," said the young man from Wells, Fargo &amp; Co.'s, who has a good deal of Chin in his name.</p><P> "All right, boys," said the host, "Here's to our distinguished guest, the captain, the boss poker-player."</p><P> In a while after resuming the game, one of the "fruit-pickers" lost all of his chips, and purchased a dollar's worth from me.  Each time that my host dealt the cards I got a winning hand, and in less than half an hour from the time the game commenced, I had eight dollar's worth of chip in front of me.</p><P> Just at this stage of the game my host remembered that he had a very "important engagement" at the Hotel Vella Blista, one of those "quiet family" boarding houses that we hear so much about around the billiard rooms, poker clubs, and  other places where the young men about town meet to tell one another what they know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:about things in general--things that are not spoken of among ladies.</p><P> When my host signified his intention of going out, the "banker" cashed in my chips and complimented me on my good luck.</p><P> "Of course, captain," said the modest "fruit-pickers" in chorus, "you'll come up to our <HI REND="italics">seance</HI>
108.sgm:, Saturday night, and give us a chance to get back the eight dollars that you have won from us?"</p><P> Thanking the jolly "fruit-pickers" for their kind invitation, I bade them good-night.  My host having insisted on my walking up to Vella Blista with him, I decided to accompany him as far as the door.  He was a very interesting conversationalist, and, during the ten minutes' walk from 905 Sutter Street to the corner of Pine and Taylor Streets, he told me a good deal about himself and friends, mentioning the names of many "prominent" citizens in the most patronizing way.  I learned afterward that these "prominent" citizens had savory reputations.  They, like the "fruit-pickers," belonging to Mr. Greenway's Friday Night Parvenucracy.</p><P> This mentioning of names was intended to create an impression in my mind that he moved in the very best element of San Francisco society.  That which puzzled me most, however, was the over=cordial manner in which he treated me right from the start.  I could not understand at the time, why this man, who professed to be a member of high and exclusive society, should be so desirous of introducing into his "set" a comparative stranger, of whom he knew nothing further than what he had heard from the mutual acquaintance who had introduced him to me.</p></DIV>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P> Where I was born and raised, in Mississippi, strangers from a distant State cannot get into the homes of the old reliable citizens in this go-as-you-please fashion.</p><P>I had my doubts about my host's real social standing from the first, but I did not suspect, at the time, that he and his friends were poker sharps.</p><P>However, when I came to consider that San Francisco was very young city,--barely forty years old,--I arrived at the conclusion that this circumstance might be considered sufficient justification for the altering of the case, and I was willing to overlook "Hal's" erroneous impression that he and his friends belonged to good society.</p><P>That may host spoke the truth when he said that he knew certain "prominent" individuals, I have not the slightest doubt.  In fact, I believe that he knew them well; too well, indeed, for his own good.  But when he said that those persons were members of the best element of Pacific Slope society, he did not speak the truth.</p><P>The gambling element is not the best element of <HI REND="italics">any</HI>
108.sgm: settlement or colony, as large as San Francisco.</p><P>Let us investigate this case before we go any further.</p><P>My host was called "Hal."  He was a clerk in the Front Street liquor store of Spurance, Stanley &amp; Co.</p><P>"Hal" was well acquainted with Mr.  Hobbs and family of "Jerry" Street.</p><P>Who is this Mr. Hobbs?</p><P>I will tell you what Mr. Hobbs did for a livelihood for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:a long time, and then you will know who he is.  He conducted a gambling house upstairs in one of those houses between the Crocker building and the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm: building, on Market Street, opposite the Palace Hotel, and not far from Ottinger's cut-rate ticket office.</p><P>Would a gentleman care to associate with the family of a person who runs a gambling house on the principal thoroughfare of a great city, if he knew it?</p><P>Perhaps poor "Hal"didn't know it.</p><P>"Hal" knew Mr. Jones very well, and he referred to him in the most complimentary way, and informed me that he was the same Mr. Jones whose name appears so often in the society column of certain papers.</p><P>Who is this Mr. Jones, anyhow?</p><P>The son-in-law of Mr. Hobbs.  Mr. Jones is also a great friend of Mr. and Mrs. "Will" Crocker of the S. P. R. R. crowd, that splurges so loudly on the money that the corporation swindled the U. S. Government out of.</p><P>"Hal" knew J. O'Hara Cosgrave, or Nosegrave, I forget now which.</p><P>Who and what is this Nosegrave?</p><P>He came here from Australia, to which country, it is said, his predecessors were transported from Ireland.</p><P>Mr. Nosegrave publishes a little advertising sheet called the <HI REND="italics">Ware</HI>
108.sgm:, which is devoted to almost everything that he can get a few dimes for mentioning.  This pitiable fellow is a splendid representative of class which, taken as a class, is well calculated to facilitate the belief that Ham was not the only creature that married a monkey, and, also, the Oscar Wilde should have plenty of company in jail.</p><P>Mr. Nosegrave conducted his poor little <HI REND="italics">Wave</HI>
108.sgm: for a long time in copartnership with an irresponsible little<illus entity="a108-0023" MAP="no"> <CAPTION><P>FEMALE FRUIT PICKERS PLUCKING A GREENY, AT THE<LB>"VELLA BLISTER" HOTEL, S. F.<LB>"About this time the young man gets four jacks before the `draw'.  He bets on them, and goes home dead broke.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:would-be-tough, named Huge Hume, or Spew Spume, as he has been called.</p><P>Messrs. Nosegrave and Spume are as necessary to the Parvenucracy as it is the Parvenucracy to them.  They publish society news about the Parvenucracy, and silly little girls, and sissie boys, like Mr. Addison Mizner, Mr. Bazil Wil- per-force, Mr. Willis Polk, and little Georgie Mearns--Wally Cooke's shadow--read it, and pass it around to their nincompoop friends, who also read it, and, in their Oscar Wilde "fashion," make much over it.</p><P>Mr. Spume deserves mention for having taken unto himself a wife.  Her name was Miss Sillie Brush (not scrub brush at all), and she was a cousin to Mrs. Volney Spalding, who is famous for a certain grammatical story which begins with: "Me and Mrs. Mackay."</p><P>Mrs Spalding is noted also for her delightful "card parties," at which Miss Brush was once a "drawing card."</p><P>When Mr. Spume was connected with the <HI REND="italics">Ware</HI>
108.sgm:, that little patent medicine advertising diatribe was sarcastically referred to around the Tenderloin district, where its subscribers and advertisers hang out "vapor bath" and "massage artist" sign, as the "Vella Blista Hotel family paper."</p><P>I bade "Hal" good-night at the Pine Street entrance of the Vella Blista, the "family" boarding house which is an evolution-- so far as proprietress-ship goes--of a mining camp chop house of Virginia City, Ne., "fame."</p><P>The above mentioned names are a few samples of what "Hal" represented to me as the best element that <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
108.sgm: knew of in San Francisco society.</p><P>At the time of my first meeting with the "fruit- pickers" I knew very little about San Francisco; a fact of which these accomplished poker players were well aware.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:was just the kind of a young man whom they could cultivate the acquaintance of--a stranger who knew scarcely anyone in the city.  My knowledge of poker had been derived from an occasional five-minutes' game with two or three of my brother officers on the Mail steamers for an ante-dinner appetizer.</p><P>A few days after the pleasant evening at 905 Sutter Street, including the quiet game, the sudden breaking up for the night, just when I was eight dollars ahead, and then the walk up to Mrs. Galding's "family" boarding house--all of which entertainment had been especially arranged for the transferring of the aforesaid vacation money from my pockets to the "kitty" of the "fruit pickers,"--I received the following invitation:<LB><HSEP>NO. 905 SUTTER STREET,<HSEP>WEDNESDAY, JANUARY, 20, 1892.<LB>DEAR CAPTAIN:<LB>The pleasure of your company is especially requested on Saturday<LB> evening next at 8 P. M., sharp.  Fruit for those who can pluck.</p><HSEP><P>Yours truly,</p><LB><P>THE FRUIT-PICKERS.</p><P>I accepted this invitation.  I had been invited to call and give the "fruit-pickers" a chance to get back the eight dollars which they had purposely allowed me to win, and had I not accepted, they might have thought that I was staying away because I was "ahead of the game."</p><P>I shall not describe all of the details of the second game that I played with the "fruit-pickers."  It took place in the same rooms; the same players or pickers were there, with the addition of a young naval engineer who was invited there as I had been, for the sake, of this money.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>The second game differed from the first in that it lasted until after midnight, about which time I took my departure, minus a portion of my vacation money.</p><P>The versatile "fruit-pickers" who had complimented me on my "good playing" the first night, now consoled me for my bad luck by inviting me to come again and win back what I had lost.</p><P>I had heard of people who were foolish enough to throw good dollars after bad ones, and after visiting the rooms of the "fruit-pickers" three or four times, on their kind invitation to come up and "get even with the game," during which period I saw the remainder of my vacation money evaporate into the "kitty" and the pockets of the "fruit-pickers," I realized that I had been playing poker with men who never lost, but who, nevertheless, posed as gentlemen in the Greenway "Four Hundred," which, at that time, was supposed to be composed of respectable citizens.</p><P>The "fruit-pickers" adopted this plan of operation-- this posing as gentlemen--for two substantial reasons.<LIST TYPE="ordered"><ITEM><P>First:  It was much easier to entire their intended victims into a family boarding house than it would have been to get them into a more public gambling den.  The class of gentlemen from which they singled out their victims could not be induced to enter a faro den or a gambling den of a low degree, such as the game that was conducted by Mr. Hobbs, the father-in-law of the great society column advertiser.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Second:  In confining their operations to the victimizing of reputable citizens they imagined that they were taking no risks of exposure:</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:</p><P>When the average young gentleman gets victimized, he is afraid to acknowledge it; he is afraid that his friends <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:will laugh at him for having been so careless as to let such knaves get his money.</p><P>This is a mistake.  No gentleman need be afraid to expose rascality of any kind.  Every gentleman who has the interests of good society at heart owes it to his friends and himself to speak the truth and expose to the public all such wolves in sheep's clothes as this gang.  What of it if the exposed sharpers do accuse their victims of "squealing"?  In so doing they merely corroborate the victim's statements.</p><P>The "fruit-pickers" formed a strong combination, and they never hesitated about giving their victims to understand that if they "squealed" they would be attacked immediately by the whole crowd; and in addition to this, the victim would be blackguarded and maligned by the <HI REND="italics">Wave</HI>
108.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Evening Post</HI>
108.sgm:, which two filthy little sheets, "edited" by J. O'Hara Cosgrave and Hugh Hume, always stood ready to accept for publication any article-- no matter how libelous it might have been-about anyone who dared to say one word about the little tricks resorted to by the three knaves of clubs, spades, and diamonds known as "Hal" Wright, "Jack" Nevin, and "Harry" Chin, alias the Sutter Street "Fruit-Pickers," and their friends Paxton, Flood, Fair, Irving, Cooke, Mearns, "Mose" Gunst, and Greenway.</p><P>It was good form for a "fruit-picker" to go to a bank where one of his victims kept his money and make inquiries about his (the victim's) account.</p><P>Firm in their belief that they could rely upon the protection of the <HI REND="italics">Evening Post</HI>
108.sgm: and its sickly little weekly branch, the <HI REND="italics">Wave</HI>
108.sgm:, while the latter was in existence, the "fruit-pickers" kept right on with their abominable game until they brought upon themselves exactly what they deserved:  utter destruction.</p> <illus entity="a108-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THREE GRACES OF THE FREE LUNCH COUNTERS.<LB>This is the picture that Mearns Cooke and "Birdie" Irving tried to suppress because it looked too much like themselves.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:<P>This is how that happened:  Mr. Thomas Garret, the bright and enterprising city editor of a morning paper, had known for some time of the existence of the "fruit-pickers."  Mr. Garret had, at one time, been connected with the <HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
108.sgm:, but, in justice to this young journalist, I wish to state that he did not approve of the tactics of Hugh Hume and J. O'Hara Cosgrave in upholding "society" card sharps and vulgar upstarts, including some who were to be found at the Vella Blista Hotel.</p><P>Mr. Garrett made up his mind that he would rid San Francisco of one "skin game" at least.  Sending for Mr. C. M. Coe, one of the ablest young journalists of the city, Mr. Garrett requested this young gentleman to write an article that would put an end to the "fruit-picker" combination forever.</p><P>Mr. Coe commenced on them in his own peculiar style, and, on the morning of May 9, 1893, he exploded a bomb in their midst, which brought them down with a crash that resounded from North Beach to Tar Flat, inclusive .  The following are a few fragments of the reform bomb which I collected together and preserved as a remembrance of the good work that it accomplished when Mesrs. Garrett and Coe touched it off in the form of a two-column article.  This article was the honest work of two journalists:<LB>"ROUGH ON MR. FRUIT-TREE.<LB>"Fruit-pickers too much for him.</p><P>"A racy story got into circulation yesterday that Mr. Fruit-tree, the young society leader, who is well known here, had, a few nights ago, been done up to the tune of a large sum of money in a room at a boarding house at No. 905 Sutter Street.  The story goes that the room was regularly occupied by Hallock Wright; that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:room was completely fitted with tables covered with green cloth; that there was as 'kitty' in each table, and stacks upon stacks of poker chips, and bushels of cards, so as to be ready for whosoever might come.</p><P>"According to the rumor there were three or four young men about Wright who posed as society men, who really spent a good deal of their time gambling.</p><P>"Wright is president of the <HI REND="italics">Banduria</HI>
108.sgm: Club, and holds a position with Spruance, Stanley &amp; Co.  The others who lend their assistance are:  John Nevin, who is in the employ of Cartan, McCarty &amp;  Co.:  Harry Chin, an employee of Wells, Fargo &amp; Co., and W. H. Fitzgerald.*<ANCHOR>*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE>*This was a printer's error in the paper.  The right name is Fitzhugh, a parvenu politician.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>"Fitzgerald was a not in the party when Mr. Fruit-tree dropped the money aforesaid; but he was there on many other occasions, and he was a sharer in the general fund that was raked in.  Furthermore, it is said that Mr. Fruit-tree was not the only victim, but that man after man had been invited to the Sutter Street home of the "fruit-pickers," as they play playfully style themselves, and that their gains would probably foot up eight thousand or ten thousand dollars.</p><P>"It was stated that among the many who had been taken in, under the guise of friendship, was no less a personage than the son of Admiral de Krafts.  Lieutenant Armin Hartrath was another whose name was mentioned as having plunked in most of his salary for many months over the green cloth of the enterprising young men who congregated in the rooms at the top of the very quiet and highly respectable (?) Sutter Street boarding house.</p><P>"An inquiry into the details developed the fact that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:the story was true, and that it was so full of interesting particulars as to fairly daze the society  people, who looked upon the young men as models of propriety, so far as putting up a quiet little enterprise to get the good red gold of the unwary was concerned.</p><P>"It appears that of the numberless poker decks that were in easy reach, the one used for a time was laid aside every once in a while to 'cool off,' as they expressed it, and that another deck would be produced.  From this deck a good hand was always dealt to the invited guest; but some one of the 'fruit- pickers' always got a better hand, and, as a result, the unsuspecting guest would drop his roll.  The 'kitty,' which has been alluded to, was always kept moving, and money was being jingled into it all the time.  As for the contents of the 'kitty,' however, Mr. Wright virtuously disclaimed that it went in any toward paying for refreshments.  He hospitably furnished those himself.  The 'kitty' was merely to pay the girl for cleaning up the room.  As the victims noticed, however, that there were as much as twelve or fourteen dollars in the 'kitty' after a game, they how have their suspicions that this was utilized by their thrifty host in liquidating his board bill."</p><P>To the uninitiated I will explain what a "kitty" in a poker game is:  It is a contribution box regularly fitted on the under side of the center of the poker table.  The contributions are deposited in this box through a little slot in the middle of the table.  This slot is similar to that in the nickel-in-the-slot machine, but it differs from the latter to the extent that the contributors never get anything in return for what they are required to drop in.</p><P>The man who runs the game requires each player to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:drop into the "kitty" a certain tax on all the "pots" that he wins; and it goes there to remain until the game is over and the guests are gone, when the thrifty host takes the contents of the box and puts it in his pocket.</p><P>This poker "income tax" is based upon the strength of the winner's "hand" rather than upon the amount of his winnings.  For example, the "fruit-picker" system compels the winning man to pay "income tax" as follows:<LIST TYPE="simple"><ITEM><P>One pair of anything below aces,<HSEP>10 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>One pair of aces,<HSEP>15 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Two ordinary pairs,<HSEP>20 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Aces up,<HSEP>25 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Three of a kind (ordinary),<HSEP>30 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Three aces,<HSEP>35 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Plain straight,<HSEP>40 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Plain flush,<HSEP>45 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Full hand (ordinary),<HSEP>50 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Ace full,<HSEP>55 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Four deuces,<HSEP>60 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Four aces,<HSEP>65 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:<ITEM><P>Royal straight flus,<HSEP>$1.00 cents.</p></ITEM>
108.sgm:</p><P>From the "fruit-picker" schedule, the danger of holding "big hands" in a five-cent <HI REND="italics">ante</HI>
108.sgm: game, limited to fifty cent betting, may be readily understood.  Whenever anyone complained about having to "dig down" into his pockets in order to pay a tax of fifty cents on a twentyfive cent "pot," the "fruit-pickers" always consoled him by declaring that Webster Jones, Blitz Paxton, and other prominent members of Mr. Greenway's "Four Hundred" played there, and that they considered it a "square game."</p><P>I suppose the Parvenucracy would consider it "bad form" if I were to call this a "cinch game" to compel the invited guest to ask the "fruit-pickers" to raise the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:limit.  But be that as it may, whenever the limit was raised so that the guest might bet ten or twenty dollars at a time, the said guest seldom got a winning "hand."  He got "hands" that looked big enough, but the "fruit-pickers" almost always got bigger ones.</p><P>The article went on to stay:  "One stranger was about all that the merry men aforesaid ever had in their rooms at a time.  Whenever a new man was gotten hold of it was always by suggesting a little poker in a modest way; and once he got to playing the stakes grew.</p><P>"Altogether it is said that a very prosperous business has been done at the quiet rooms at the top of the house on Sutter Street.  Wonderful tales are told of how well equipped it is, and of the interest in the sittings.  It is confidently stated that the money the talented 'fruit-pickers' have made during their long reign is a bonanza alongside of what they have drawn in business."</p><P>After reading the above article I discarded my strangely acquired title of "captain," and since that time I have been satisfied with the title of American citizen.</p><P>Apropos of the <HI REND="italics">personnel</HI>
108.sgm: of the "fruit-pickers," I am inclined to the belief that Hallock Wright was led astray by his companions.  Like old dog Tray, he was all right until found in company with Mr. Nevin, Mr. Chin, Mr. Hobbs, and Blitz Paxton.</p><P>Mr. Wright seemed to be a good-natured, harmless sort of youth, possessing no force of character at all with which to resist temptation.  Living in a boarding house, where he came into contact with such politicians as County Surveyor W. H. Fitzhugh, and such society lights as Nosegrave, Spume, Cooke, Greenway, Mearns, Irving, and Hobbs, it is not at all surprising that he got written <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:up in the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Wasp</HI>
108.sgm:, and several other papers, including the <HI REND="italics">World</HI>
108.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm:, as a card sharp.  Mr. Nevin, his bosom friend, is an ex-bartender, so Mr. Bert.  Wheeler says.  Concerning, Mr. de Krafts, and Mr. Hartrath, I am inclined to the belief that they played poker with the "fruit- pickers" because they were fond of the game.</p><P>I believe that Mr. Wright has suffered enough already for being a partner in a game like that in his private rooms, which he shared with his "friend" Nevin.</p><P>In order that Mr. Wright may have the full benefit of the doubt, I wish to say that he frequently went to bed in an adjoining room, leaving Nevin (assisted by Chin) and his "guests" playing away.</p><P>If Mr. Wright would come out and admit that he was in the wrong, and show by so doing that he disapproves of that kind of dissipation, the good that would result from his action would manifest itself in such a way that he should never again have occasion even regret his misfortune in having been written up.</p><P>The poker episode, and his disastrous attempt to vindicate himself and his friends by means of ludicrous false-hoods published in the pitiable railroad folders, the <HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
108.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Wave</HI>
108.sgm:, in May and June, 1893, were the only dishonorable transactions that I ever knew Mr. Wright to participate in.</p><P>Even now, at this late day, it is not too late for him to redeem himself by coming out frankly and disavowing his past conduct.  Just as soon as he puts aside his false pride, and acknowledges his errors, he will be reinstated to good citizenship; but until that time he will continue to be regarded as one of the "fruit- pickers."</p></DIV>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>LITTLE CAPTAIN DOW was not by any means the only interesting person on board the quarantine ship <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>Doctor Hunter, or Doctor "Booze" as Charlie Elasser insatiable thirst, and his unlimited capacity for liquid refreshments.</p><P>Like "General" Barnes, Dr. "Booze" was of the opinion that the various brands of liquids were distinguishable from one another only in that some were a little better and more agreeable to the inner man than others.  In this opinion the doctor found a warm supporter in the person of Mr. Crane, the old night watchman.  Mr. Crane was an old war veteran and a member of the "G.A.R.," in fairly good standing.  Owing to Mr. Crane's strict observance of army etiquette, he was nicknamed Mr. "Post."  Whenever he spoke of going on watch or on duty, he always said, "I'm going on post," or, "I must be going on me post."</p><P>Mike Hernon, the steward, was another character that I must not forget.  Mike had occupied the position of steerage steward of the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: for some time, and when it was determined to place the passengers, officers, and crew of the ship on board the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:, Mike was promoted to the position of chief steward of the latter ship.</p><P>That the position of steerage steward on a mail steamer of the China line is a lucrative one, and that the salary of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:forty dollars a month attached thereto is probably the smallest inducement for those who fill those positions in the different ships, is shown by the fact that some steerage stewards accumulate small fortunes in the course of a few voyages.  This man Mike, for instance, who could neither read nor write intelligibly, had, during the course of a year or two, accumulated eight thousand or ten thousand dollars, so he admitted.  He was subsequently sued for breach of promise by one of his sweethearts in Tar Flat, whom he had discarded after he had made money enough out of the business of peddling liquors, chickens, ducks, etc., etc., to the Chinese passengers, to entitle him to membership in Mr. Greenway's Friday Night Parvenu Cotillion Club.</p><P>There are several members of the steerage steward class in Mr. Greenway's Parvenucracy.  From the San Francisco city directory 1 copy the following names:  "Greenway, A.E., 813 Pacific Avenue; Greenway, John, deck hand, steamer <HI REND="italics">El Capitan</HI>
108.sgm:; Greenway, E.M., clerk, 4 Nevada Block."  The latter is the famous "Ned" who "leads" the Friday Night "Cotillions," and writes up such extraordinary accounts of his own special "triumphs," and publishes those incredible stories in the "society" columns of the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm:, for which paper he is a paid reporter.</p><P>On the 14th of February, 1888, the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: sailed for Japan and China.  The tugboat <HI REND="italics">Millen Griffith</HI>
108.sgm: came alongside the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm: just before the <HI REND="italics">New York</HI>
108.sgm: sailed and took all the officers and crew back to the steamer, excepting Charlie Elsasser, McMahon, Dr. Hunter, Mr. Crane and myself, and Mike the steward, and enough Chinese cooks and waiters for the steward to get along with.</p><P>After Captain Dow went back to his former position of <illus entity="a108-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. GREENWAY'S GREEN-GOODS COURTESY.<LB>His non-committal letter inviting a total stranger to "come on" and pay twenty dollars for an "invitation" to a Parvenu steam beer cotillion.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:second officer of the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:, Mr. Cheesebrough appointed a man named Judd to take his place as captain of the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:.  Mr. Judd's "tastes" ran in the same channel as those of Dr. "Booze" and Mr. Crane.  These three old "tanks" managed to keep the steam launch <HI REND="italics">Pup</HI>
108.sgm: and the late "Commodore" Taylor in active service all the time, running between the Mail dock and the quarantine ship, to supply them with whisky enough to quench their thirst.</p><P>Every steamer that came into San Francisco from China, during the months of January and February, 1888, was placed in quarantine, by orders of the Board of Health; and the passengers were transferred to quarantine hulks chartered for the purpose.  About the first of March all of the Chinese passengers destined for the Hawaiian Islands were taken from the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm: and shipped off to Honolulu on the barkentine <HI REND="italics">Planter</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>When the Chinese were ready to start, the <HI REND="italics">Planter</HI>
108.sgm: was towed alongside the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm: by the <HI REND="italics">Millen Griffith</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"Captain" Tom Driscoll, the man with the historical Burnsides which the humorous reporters have so much fun with in windy weather, was in command of the <HI REND="italics">Millen Griffith</HI>
108.sgm:, and he gave us an exhibition of his bad seamanship which cost the Pacific Mail Company a good many hundreds of dollars to repair.</p><P>This is how he did it:  When the Chinese were all aboard the <HI REND="italics">Planter</HI>
108.sgm: the captain of that vessel informed Driscoll that he was all ready to be towed out to sea.</p><P>Driscoll is a representative of that class which imagines that it knows it all and that nobody else knows anything.  According to him no one is qualified to hold any position-- even outside of the jurisdiction of political <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:knavery-- if he is not Irish.  In the common, everyday phraseology of the careless person, Mr. Driscoll would, in all probability, find himself referred to as a "duffer".</p><P>Instead of dropping astern of the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm: with the <HI REND="italics">Planter</HI>
108.sgm: in tow, as any sensible tugboat coxswain would have done, this beautiful advocate of home rule in Ireland just ordered the single deck hand to "cast off," and then went right ahead, full speed, with the port side of the <HI REND="italics">Planter</HI>
108.sgm: scraping against the starboard side of the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:.  The result was that the backstays and rigging of the <HI REND="italics">Planter</HI>
108.sgm: got afoul of the cathead of the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:, and, as she went forward, her main top gallant mast and mizzen topmast were carried away in the twinkling of an eye.</p><P>This accident so completely disabled the <HI REND="italics">Planter</HI>
108.sgm:, that, instead of proceeding on out to sea, she was compelled to anchor off the Mail dock for several days for repairs; and all on account of the unseamanlike maneuver of this bombastic "Captain" Driscoll.</p><P>On the 3d of March, the remainder of the crowd on board the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:, myself included, was transferred to the old side-wheeler <HI REND="italics">Antelope</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>Sunday, March 4, 1888, set in with a strong southwest breeze which continued to increase in velocity until it developed into the heaviest gale known on San Francisco Bay in many years.  The old <HI REND="italics">Antelope</HI>
108.sgm: had long since been condemned as unseaworthy, but the Pacific Mail Steamship Company considered her quite good enough for a quarantine ship.  Human life and the personal property of employees are not considered of any consequence by steamship and railroad companies--Pacific Mail and Southern Pacific for examples.  We were anchored off Butchertown, near the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Alice Garratt</HI>
108.sgm: and the rest of the quarantine fleet, when the southwester <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:set in, but by noon we had drifted about halfway to Oakland.</p><P>We had only one little kedge anchor and a few fathoms of chain, which would have been barely sufficient to keep the old boat from drifting away with the tide, even had there been no wind.  Imagine our dangerous position with a seventy-knot gale blowing off shore; and, to make matters worse, we sprung a leak, and then the steam pump broke down, and all hands had to turn to on the hand pump to keep the boat from sinking.  All this time we were drifting gradually out in the direction of Goat Island.  The seas rose to a height never before known on the bay, and it began to look as if it were only a question of time when our cable would part, in which case we would have swung around broadside on to the wind, and in the trough of the sea, and nothing could have saved us from capsizing and going to the bottom of the treacherous bay with all on board.</p><P>At noon we were fully two miles from the wharves, with the wind and seas increasing all the time.  One of the Spreckels' tugs, the <HI REND="italics">Relief</HI>
108.sgm:, attempted to come alongside to tow us in to the wharf, but the seas ran so high that she dared not come closer than speaking distance for fear of a collision; and then we had no means of getting our anchor up, so there we were, at the mercy of the storm.</p><P>About one o'clock in the afternoon our attention was called to the <HI REND="italics">Alice Garratt</HI>
108.sgm:, another boat similar to the <HI REND="italics">Antelope</HI>
108.sgm:, with the passengers of the <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
108.sgm: on board.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Alice Garratt</HI>
108.sgm: had parted her cables and was drifting before the wind.  For a time we forgot our own perilous position while we watched the doomed vessel as she drifted away.  Several tugs put out to her assistance, but they could do nothing in such a fearful sea.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Suddenly, and without the slightest warning, the wind veered to the south, and the bay immediately became a turbulent mass of choppy seas and driftwood.  The <HI REND="italics">Alice Garratt</HI>
108.sgm:, in obedience to the wind, began to drift in toward the docks.  She gave one big roll as she swung around, and her smokestack went by the board.  A few minutes later she ran afoul of the big American ship <HI REND="italics">St. Paul</HI>
108.sgm:, and carried away the jib boom and all the rest of the head gear of that vessel.  Then she drifted along almost on her beams' ends for a minute, when she was caught, broadside-on, by a mountainous sea which finished her forever.  She went clean down on her beams' ends and turned bottom upward.</p><P>Fortunately for everybody on board, she capsized near the Steward Street wharf, and, what would have been classed as a miracle in Dublin, all hands escaped with their lives; but they lost everything else, including clothes and baggage, which went down with the wreck.</p><P>It not seemed as though it were only a question of a little while when the <HI REND="italics">Antelope</HI>
108.sgm: would share the same fate; but the storm began to moderate toward sunset, and the <HI REND="italics">Millen Griffith</HI>
108.sgm: (with a crew on board this time) came out and got our anchor up, and toward us in alongside of the Mail dock, where we remained three days.</p><P>On the 7th, Dr. McAllister and the Board of Health met in council, and decided to release us from quarantine.</p><P>During the voyage from Hong Kong to San Francisco, the surgeon of the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: had vaccinated all hands.  My vaccination took splendidly, and I had to carry my arm in a sling from the effects of it for a long time.  It was almost well, however, when I got it hurt during the storm of the 4th, and, as a result, it came very near costing me my arm.  Old Dr. Hunter was "full" all the time, and when I spoke to him about my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:arm, the old idiot only laughed at me.  However, when I got out of quarantine boat I called upon the United States Naval Surgeon at the Appraisers' building, and that gentleman sent me to the Marine Hospital immediately, for treatment.  Dr. Sawtelle, U. S. N., the surgeon in charge of the hospital, informed me that had I waited another day before seeking reliable medical aid, I would in all probability have lost the use of my arm altogether.  As it was, I was confined to the hospital until the 22d, and even then Dr. Sawtelle cautioned me to be very careful and not hurt my arm over again, before he would let met go.</p><P>One thing about my trip to the hospital which was very consoling was this:  Dr. Sawtelle informed me that owing to the violent effects of the vaccination, it would not be necessary for me to ever be vaccinated again.</p><P>When the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: sailed for China, Captain Searle left orders for those whom he detailed to look after the quarantine ship, myself included, to stand by to return to duty on the steamer immediately upon her return to San Francisco.  These orders were left at the main office of the Pacific Mail Steamship Co. and were communicated at once, so I learned a long time afterward, to someone on board the quarantine ship.  For some mysterious reason or other, the person who received the orders neglected to inform me that I was mentioned in them.  Mr. Judd, who was in charge of the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:, and undoubtedly knew all about it, took particular pains to give me to understand that Captain Searle had said nothing about my being expected to return to the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:, and furthermore, Mr. Judd intimated that my position on the ship had been filled by a gentleman who was there to stay.</p><P>I was younger and a good deal more credulous at that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:time than I am now, and I did not even think of inquiring at the office, to find out the reason of this curious piece of business, and then I was sick besides; so when I left the quarantine ship to 'go to the hospital, my mind was made up to not report for duty again on the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>When I left the hospital I went in search of another position,or, as some sailors would say, I "went coasting for a ship"; or, as the old"Forty-niners" would express it, I "went prospecting."  At any rate, I went down to the foot of Market Street and started to walk up toward the Oregon dock.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>WHEN I reached Folsome Street pier I stopped to admire a nice-looking steamer lying alongside of the wharf.  While thus engaged I glanced up at the end of the pier and read:  "Oceanic S. S. Co., for Honolulu, Auckland, and Sydney."</p><P>As I was out "prospecting,"anyway, the idea struck me that I would go aboard of this nice-looking ship and look around.  I walked on down the wharf to the gangplank, and asked the quartermaster if the first officer was on board, and if I might go aboard to see him.</p><P>"Yes," said the quartermaster, "Mr. Hart is up forward there on the forecastle; go right aboard, sir."</p><P>This was more than I had expected.  I had not asked the quartermaster what the first officer's name was for fear he would not let me go aboard.  They are very particular about demanding of strangers to state their business before going aboard some ships, but this quartermaster was an exception; he not only let me go aboard without cross-questioning me, but he even volunteered to tell me the mate's name.  With this piece of encouragement fora starter, I walked up to Mr. Hart, and, addressing him by name, proceeded to state my business.</p><P>"Mr. Hart," said I, "I am looking for a ship.  Have you got a vacancy that I can fill?"</p><P>The first officer looked me over from head to foot before he replied.  Then, in a tone of voice that was a cross between a foghorn and a German brass band, he answered by asking me several pointed questions.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"What sort of job d'yer want?" was the first question.</p><P>"I want to ship as quartermaster," said I, without appearing to notice his polished mode of speech.</p><P>"Whar did yer come from, and what ship was yer ever quartermaster on?"</p><P>"I was on the New York," said I, purposely omitting the <HI REND="italics">City</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"How d'yer happen to be lookin' fer a job?"</p><P>"I've just got my discharge from the hospital, where I have been laid up for repairs," said I.</p><P>"Did yer have the smallpox?"</p><P>"Oh, no, sir!" said I, wondering if it would be safe to acknowledge that a little thing like a vaccination had knocked me out.  "I didn't exactly have the smallpox; but I--"</p><P>"Oh, yes, I see," broke in Mr. Hart. "Never mind telling me nay more; I know all about you young fellows who run out to Japan and China"</p><P>"But let me explain," said I, "and I'll tell you what--"</p><P>"Explain be d---d! you can't tell me nothin' bout it, for I've been there myself, see?  You're all right.  Comedown to-morrow morning', and report for duty; I won't be here, but just report to the second officer, and tell him that I sent you."  So saying, Mr. Hart began yelling out at some sailors up aloft, and I decided to let "well enough" alone,and go back uptown after my things.</p><P>I was so elated over getting a position so soon, that I left the ship without stopping to see what her name was.  I went on uptown and told Pete McMahon, the good old boarding house keeper who kindly took care of my chest of clothes while I was at the hospital, that I had just secured a position on the <HI REND="italics">Australia</HI>
108.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"Why, the <HI REND="italics">Australia</HI>
108.sgm: is over at the sugar refinery," said Mr. McMahon.</p><P>"No,"said I; "she is at Spreckels' dock, because I have just come from there."</p><P>Then Mr. McMahon got a copy of the <HI REND="italics">Guide</HI>
108.sgm:, and showed me that the <HI REND="italics">Australia was</HI>
108.sgm: at the sugar refinery, and that, therefore, I had shipped on the wrong steamer, or else I didn't know what ship I belonged on.  At this point our discussion was brought to a close by the entrance of the captain of a "deep-water" ship who wanted a "deep-sea" cook.  I took advantage of the opportunity and went and got a copy of the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm: in order to find out from the advertising columns of that paper what ship I belonged on.  Whenever I am uncertain about anything, I always consult the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:.  Having been assured, on reading the advertisement of John D. Spreckels &amp; Bros., that I belonged on the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: instead of the <HI REND="italics">Australia</HI>
108.sgm:, I looked Mr. McMahon up, and asked him to "come in" and have a "steam beer" with me, and not to tell anybody that I didn't know the name of my own ship.</p><P>On the 24th of March, at 7 a. m., I reported duty to second officer John M. Bowen, on board the steamship <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: of the Oceanic Steamship Company.  I had to look all over the ship for Mr. Bowen before I could find him.  When finally I sighted him, I went up to him and said:  "Allow me to report for duty, sir."</p><P> "Who told you to report to me?" asked Mr. Bowen.</p><P>Having informed him that Mr.Hart had shipped me the day before, he said he guessed it was all right, and that I would have to report to the chief quartermaster for further information.</p><P>I found the chief quartermaster, Mr. Dominick W. Carvin, up in the pilot house oiling the steering gear.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Dominick was a well informed man, and a thorough steamship sailor.  What he did not know about utilizing "soft snaps" on board ship amounted to so very little that it would not be worth while to speak of it.  He managed to while away the whole forenoon in explaining to me how to get along with Mr. Hart.</p><P>"You must not mind anything that Mr. Hart says to you"said Mr. Carvin, "because he is one of the best men that you ever sailed with. He is the best sailor in the company, and could have been captain long ago, had he only wanted the position, but he prefers to sail as mate as long as Hayward remains as captain."</p><P>At twelve o'clock Mr. Carvin took me out to lunch.  No meals are served on board steamers while they are alongside the wharfs in San Francisco.  The hash house keepers, along the water front, have regular contracts with all the large steamship companies to feed the crews of steamers at so much per meal.  regular meal tickets are issued by those chop-house keepers to the officers and crews of ships in port.  If a person does not use his meal ticket she can exchange them for drinks at any saloon along the water front, where a twenty-five cent meal ticket is accepted as legal tender, and is always good fora schooner of steam beer.<ANCHOR>1</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p> <NOTE>*Members of the "Four Hundred"who still own these saloons, on the sly, may credit this to the account of free advertising.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>I was coming out of the Palace Hotel one day,subsequently, when I was stopped by a tramp who explained to me that he had "had nothing to eat since the Sunday before last,"  I had one of Mr. Mentz's meal tickets in my pocket, and I offered it to him, but he declined it on the ground that he did not wish to die just then.</p><P>On Sunday, the 8th of April, 1888,I sailed from San Francisco as quartermaster of the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>The following is a list of the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa's</HI>
108.sgm: officers:<LB>H. M. Hayward, commander ; F. W. Hart, first officer; J. M. Bowen, second officer; W. D. Watson, third officer; D. W. Carvin,J. Hernon, A. Linguist, and W. H. Chambliss, quartermasters' August Law,boatswain; Dr. Gilberson, surgeon; mr. Smith, purser; messrs. Wilson, Whitaker,Green, and Dean, engineers; Mr. Whitelaw, storekeeper.</p><P>On Sunday, the 15th,we arrived at Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands, where we remained only a few hours, to land the passengers and mails.  At half past two in the afternoon we got under way and proceeded on our course for the Somoan Islands.</p><P>On Sunday, the 22d, we called at Apia, Tutuilla.  We did not go into the harbor, we merely stopped off West Point, where we were met by a little German sloop, which took the mail and passengers that we had for that place and brought a few passengers and a little mail off to us, after which we proceeded on our course for Auckland.</p><P>On Saturday, the 28th, at 2:30 a. m., we sighted the island called the Great Barrier,off the east coast of North Island.</p><P>At 4.50 we passed Needle Point; at 5.20, Moko Hino was abeam, and at twenty minutes past nine we were alongside the Union Steamship Company's wharf, at Auckland, New Zealand.</p><P>The arrival of a mail steamer from America is considered a great event in Auckland; nearly the entire population of the city turns out and goes down to the wharf just to see the ship. Men, women, and children by the hundreds swarm on board from the time the steamer reaches the wharf until she is ready to sail.</p><P>I rather like the people of New Zealand, from what I have seen of them.  They have a certain free and friendly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:way about them that is charming, and, I think, highly agreeable to all thoroughbred Americans.  Notwithstanding the fact that New Zealand is a British possession, the inhabitants seem to be quite as friendly to Americans as they are to the English.</p><P>At noon on Sunday, the 29th, we took our departure from Auckland, bound for Sydney, New South Wales.  During the voyage from Auckland to Sydney I made what some soulless persons on board were unkind enough to term a "bad break."  I came very near falling in love with a charming young lady who embarked in company with her father and mother at Auckland.  Very fortunately for me, as I imagined at the time, Miss Anna Wilson's parents got seasick as soon as we passed the Three Kings, but the young lady proved to be a good sailor.</p><P>I was in charge of the gangway when the passengers came aboard at Auckland, and the old gentleman had spoken to me and introduced me to the ladies before the ship had left the wharf.  Therefore, when I saw the fair daughter on deck alone, I felt that it was my duty to show her a little attention. She gave me a pleasant little smile of recognition as I walked toward where she stood holding on to the taffrail, and I lifted my cap in the most approved naval fashion, and offered her my arm for a promenade.<ANCHOR>*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:  She accepted with that sweet, charming grace which is so characteristic of the well-bred lady of any civilized country.</p><P>All of this talk about young persons being able to acquire refined and courteous manners without home training or the natural inheritance of certain gentle<NOTE>*I had learned from Lieutenant Fechteler,Lieutenant Walling, and other society leaders of the Essex.  It is a good idea to observe the customs of proper persons.</NOTE>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE PARVENU IDEA OF MODESTY AND CULTURE<LB>The Meldas-Quack Nut Toad-Nellie Murphy-Addi(son) Mizner-Greenway Coterie of Friday Nighters "sizing up"a stranger.--Sketched at Santa Cruz, Cal., June,1893.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:instincts from gentle mothers, is utter nonsense. Let me converse with a lady for fifteen minutes and I will come so near telling you what kind of parents and what sort of home training she has had, and what class of society she really belongs to, that you would have a pretty hard time finding any very serious mistakes in my humble opinions on this particular subject.  You can tell the genuine from the counterfeit the very minute you hear the ring.  Take the Mackay-Delmas-Quacknut-Mizner-Oelrichs-Fair-Flood-O'Brien-Catherwood-Greenway combination of "gentility" for example, and compare its style of "courtesy" and "politeness" with the unmistakable genuineness and real refinement of the Eddys, the Fritzes, the Hortons, the Halseys, the Rices, the Phillipses, the Admiral Skerretts, the Phelpses, the Belknaps, the Teresis, the Estees, the Dickinsons, the Grahams, the Buntings, the Stoneys, the Caseys of the army, or any others of that good and unpretentious class of old, reliable, home-loving citizens, and note the difference between the two elements.</p><P>Miss Wilson was a native daughter of New Zealand; her parents, having gone there from England on their bridal tour, became so much attached to the beautiful city of Auckland and its hospitable people that they made it their home.  They had two daughters, Elizabeth and Anna, aged twenty and eighteen, respectively.  Miss Elizabeth, the elder daughter, was visiting relatives in Sydney, and Mr. and Mrs.Wilson and Miss Anna were going over to join her there.  That accounted for the presence of the party on board the Mariposa.  The two old folds seldom left their bunks during the voyage.  The motion of the ship interfered with their comfort to such an extent that I had Miss Anna almost entirely to myself whenever I was off duty during seasonable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:hours, say from six in the morning until ten at night.</p><P>Miss Anna was an early riser, and she would come right up to the pilot house the first thing every morning.  It was against the officers of then navigation department on watch, but no one ever thought of such an absurd thing as prohibiting a nice young lady from bidding the officer of the deck and the quartermaster at the wheel "Good-morning," and asking the latter what time he would be off duty.  My "tricks" of two hours each at the wheel never seemed half so long before as they did when I knew that Miss Anna was waiting for me.  One day she expressed a desire to come into the pilot house and learn how to steer the ship.  I told her to ask Mr. Bowen, the officer of the deck, and she did it in such a nice way that Mr. Bowen not only gave her the desired permission, but he told her that he was sorry he was not the quartermaster at the wheel so that he could give her the lesson himself.</p><P>Miss Anna never forgot her seasick mother and father for an instant; she always took good care to see that the steward and stewardess showed them the attention that sea-sick parents should have, and I, of course, showed Anna the attention that I thought she deserved.</p><P>Almost any two young persons thrown together under such circumstances would be liable to form some sort of an attachment, if anything of the nature of congeniality existed between them.  Attachments of this kind sometimes result very happily for the interested parties; and then again circumstances conspire to bring bout results which occasionally make people regret seriously that they ever met.  This case was an exception, for, instead of falling in love, and developing one of those never- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:speak-as we-pass-by acquaintances, Miss Anna and I became true friends for life.</p><P>But there is always an end to everything that man undertakes, and very few things ever have a more cruel ending than a pleasant ocean voyage.</p><P>Early on Tuesday morning, the 3d of May, we arrived in Sydney. We steamed right up alongside of the Union Steamship Company's wharf, at the foot of Market Street, and by eight o'clock the last passenger, including Miss Anna and her parents, had left the ship.</p></DIV>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>THE first person I had the honor of meeting on Australian soil was the elder Miss Wilson.  She came down to the wharf, accompanied by several of her relatives and friends, whose guest she was in Sydney, to meet her father and mother and Miss Anna upon their arrival.</p><P>After the usual family greetings had been exchanged all around, Miss Anna sent for me, and introduced me to her sister and her friends, and told them about my having taught her to steer the ship during the voyage.  The old folks, having recovered entirely from their sea-sickness, were as jolly as the young ladies.  The result of all this was that I received a very cordial invitation to call.  When Miss Anna said "good-by," as the pleasant party were leaving the ship, she repeated the invitation that her mother had already extended, and added: "We will be at home this evening, and will expect you at eight."</p><P>There is nothing, absolutely nothing, in the way of courtesy, that a young man appreciates as much as he does an invitation to call on a young lady, especially a pretty one.  Imagine one's self a stranger on his first visit to a city that is situated on the opposite side of the earth to that of his own home, and the appreciation of an invitation extended in the very best form by persons of unquestionable refinement can be better understood than explained.</p><P>When Quartermaster Hearne relieved me on deck at six o'clock that evening, I went to Mr. Hart and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:explained to him that I desired permission to go ashore.  The first officer, in his bluff, good-natured way, bade me "go ahead."  Two hours later I alighted from a cab in front of a handsome residence fronting on Sydney's beautiful park, known as the Palace Gardens.  The dignified butler bowed courteously as he opened the door and extended a dainty little enameled card receiver.  He read the name on the card, looked at me in a knowing way, and ushered me into the parlor, at the door of which I was met by two lovely young ladies in beautiful evening costume.</p><P>Talk about transformations!  Why the scene in <HI REND="italics">Faust</HI>
108.sgm: is scarcely a circumstance to the change that the low-necked gown with puffed abbreviated sleeves, and French <HI REND="italics">coiffure</HI>
108.sgm: made in Miss Anna's appearance, after my having known her only in a gray traveling suit and yachting cap, suitable for rough wear on board a passenger steamer.  Both she and her sister were strictly proper in the matter of dress, as well as in everything else.  They had been trained up in that by their mother, who belonged to that particular class of society which Dickens speaks of as the most desirable class for a person to be identified with.  I do not recall Mr. Dickens' exact words, but the impression that I got from reading his version of what constituted the best element of society, was that he meant persons who believed in and lived right up to the very highest code of moral law: the natural law which the God of civilized man made after his own ideas, and a copy of which he presents to each good mother--to be--that she may begin in time to learn to impart its beautiful sentiments (some persons call it conscience) to that portion of the coming generation for whose training she is to be responsible, and for whose acts she may be held accountable on the day of our final reckoning.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>This beautiful living picture,--two young ladies in faultless reception attire, standing just inside the door, with the tastily arranged parlor forming a most appropriate background,--which I beheld as I entered, convinced me at first glance that I was in a home of rare culture and refinement.  It was not the mere fact that the ladies were pretty, and tastily dressed, and the house so well arranged, which reminded me so much of the homes of my relatives and friends in that beautiful part of the South called Mississippi, where my dear mother and father, and their parents and grandparents before them on both sides of the house were born and raised,--where refinement, culture, and pure hospitality are, to this very day, the three principal factors in that which is called the pride of the Southerners' heart,--it was the atmosphere of purity that the perfect lady creates in the home.</p><P>When the two ladies greeted me, the elder sister came first, and extended her pretty little hand in a way that reminded me of an old and beautiful custom, the origin of which I have no authentic record.</p><P>To kiss a lady's hand on entering her house, and on taking leave of her, is a mark of respect that is always due to the gentle sex, in polite society.</p><P>When I speak of the gentle sex, I certainly do not include Attorney Clara Foltz or any of her <HI REND="italics">clique</HI>
108.sgm:, or any similar <HI REND="italics">clique</HI>
108.sgm: of women who are dissatisfied with nature for having created them females instead of males.</p><P>Mannish women are not very gentle.  Just think of it!  What!  Kiss a hand which has filed charges, counter charges, demurrers, and other vulgar type-written documents in murder cases, bigamy cases, divorce cases, and other hideous litigations!  Excuse me!  I should as lief kiss the right fore paw of a grizzly bearess.</p><P>I thank God, however, that my lady friends are not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DOCTOR H. B. SOLTAN.  The great advocate of common sense principles for the government of society.  Also one of the few society leaders who refuse to cater to the Parvenucracy.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:like Laura de Force Gordon, or Clara, of the Portia Lawd-help-us Club.</p><P>When I see a masculine female, <HI REND="italics">it</HI>
108.sgm: always reminds me of those effeminate supposed-to-be men, like Mr. Wil-per-force, Mr. Addie Mizner, Mr. Nosegrave, and such highly perfumed mistakes-of-nature as Oscar Wilde is said to be.</p><P>The hostess, whose husband was a cousin to the young ladies, and bore the same name, after welcoming me and bidding me make myself at home, excused herself, saying: "I will leave you with the young people for a little while, and let Anna show you the pictures."</p><P>There were four portraits in Mrs. Wilson's collection that I was astonished to see in an English lady's house; but my astonishement took the form of a pleasant surprise when Miss Anna told me that Mrs. Wilson was a native of Virginia; Mr. Wilson having met her there soon after the Civil War, when they fell in love and got married, and sailed for Australia.  This accounted for the presence in an English house of portraits of Washington, Lee, Davis, and Grant.</p><P>When I told Mrs. Wilson that I was a native of Mississippi, and who my father was, I was invited to consider her home as my own while the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: remained in Sydney; and she concluded by inviting me to be one of her guests at a theater party the following evening at the Royal.</p><P>I spent many pleasant evenings at the Wilson home during the next fortnight, and to say that I was sorry to leave Sydney, would convey only an indefinite idea of how I felt on bidding them good-by.  Here was a family of citizens whose home was about as near perfect as could be imagined.  There are hundreds of just such homes in San Francisco, New York, New Orleans, and, in fact, in all American cities; but their names are never seen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:over the doors of saloons and poker clubs, and in divorce courts <HI REND="italics">a la</HI>
108.sgm: Parvenucracy.</p><P>As I walked back to the ship that night,--the eve of our departure,--I pondered about as follows: What a vast difference there is between a family of this kind,--to the manor born, reared, trained, and educated in all that is just, right, and proper,--and a "family" of typical modern parvenus, born after the fashion of cattle, of parents who knew not their nearest male predecessors, nor cared a cent who or what they were; creatures whose sole claim on the recognition of good citizens rests in a coarse similarity in the formation of the body; creatures possessing absolutely nothing in the line of genuine accomplishments, and whose only acquirements are knavery, presumption, vulgar pretensions, and an unnatural and insatiable desire to grasp that which they know not how to use properly when they get it, and which enables them merely to display their true colors, that all the world may know what they are,--pretenders, ignorant knaves, vulgar upstarts, and arrant snobs, who, being possessed of cyclonic imaginations, instead of natural brains or common sense, pose as "high society," and advertise in the "society" columns of public papers that they are the only citizens entitled to social recognition, when they are, in reality, only pitiable laughing-stock members of Parvenucracy.</p><P>Such creatures as these latter answer all criticisms by saying: "We have money enough to pay for complimentary notices--see?"</p><P>I sincerely regret the necessity of mentioning the best element of society in the same paragraph with the worst; but, as I have already said, I desire to explain the actual matter-of-fact difference between genuine respectability and the spurious counterfeit so easily recognized at sight.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>For further information concerning the last mentioned strata, including names of those who compose it, see the almost daily reports, written by themselves and "edited" and published by their paid "leaders" and special press agents, such as Cooke, Cosgrave, Hume, Greenway &amp;  Company, under the headings of "Society."</p><P>Here are some samples of Mr. Greenway's reportings of his own "social triumphs," extracted from the papers that he is paid to furnish news for.</p><P>Note the originality, the absence of repetitions in the display of headlines, and the modest and unpretentious style of this great "leader" of society, whose versatile ideas of etiquette permit a "perfect gentleman" to clerk for the son of the late ex-saloon keeper Flood; receive commissions from caterers and musicians on refreshments and music furnished for dances for which he charges his friends and other upstarts big admission fees; take orders for small baskets of champagne; take little tips "on the side," like a waiter; pose as leader of cotillions which are participated in by such "society lights" as the Fairs, the Oelrichs, the Mackays, the Delmases, the Goads, the Mizners, the Murphys (Nellie and sisters), the Floods, the Catherwoods, the Crockers (even unto George and the Widow Henryford), the Huntingtons, the Hobbses, the Quack-Nuts, the Joneses, the Cookes, the Birdie Irvings, the "fruit-pickers," and the Lord-knows-who-alls, and then, as if the above were not enough to put to shame even President S. G. Murphy and the entire crew of the First Irishonal Bank (who tried to beat Mrs. Colton out of eight thousand dollars), and the directors of the Pacific and the People's "Home Savings'" Banks, with Dick McDonald and his dishonorable, gluttonous betrayers, Waterhouse and Dorn, thrown in, this great Greenway caps all previous climaxes of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:parvenu modesty by writing up the "details" of those heterogeneous mixtures, and publishing the same in a daily paper, with as much assurance as if they were legitimate news articles.</p><P>I quote extracts:</p><P>"FRIDAY NIGHT COTILLION.</p><P>"FIRST COTILLION.</p><P>"THE FRIDAY NIGHT COTILLION CLUB OPENS THE SEASON WITH A DELIGHTFUL COTILLION.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">More than a Dozen De&acute;butantes Grace the Ballroom at Odd Fellows' Hall, and all of them are Lovely and Alluring Heiresses</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"MR. GREENWAY'S TRIUMPH OVER HIS ENEMIES.</p><P>"It has become necessary for the Friday Night Cotillion Club to be more exclusive than it predecessors, for which reason the most rigid rules have been applied as to the admission of anyone without the <HI REND="italics">pale</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"There has not been a winter in San Francisco's history which has introduced so many beautiful girls to society.  All of them are heiresses, and some of them are exceptionally so.<ANCHOR ID="n17-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1">Owing to the fact that some of those "alluring heiresses" referred to are daughters of such men as Fair, Crocker, and Flood, Mr. Greenway neglected to tell us how the money which they are supposed to inherit later on was accumulated.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>"In their white gowns, they gave the spectator who could not dance the idea that they were young girls going to first communion.  They seemed so happy and yet so tremulous.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SELF-MADE SOCIETY LEADER. Mr. E. M. Greenway writing up the details of his own "social triumphs (?)" for the delectation of the Parvenucracy.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:<P>"The men, who were in abundance, flocked to them as if they had known them since childhood; for there is a `certain feeling' among men who dance that the young princesses of society should be welcomed with open arms in order that the dance may go on.</p><P>"Next to the stage, at the upper left hand corner, there stood a sideboard from which `seductive' punches and many-colored lemonades were dispensed between the figures--of the dance.</p><P>"Mr. Greenway was the very efficient manager of this most select and enjoyable affair; and, like everything he does, he did it well."</p><P>Now, patient reader, what do you think about the above extracts?  What do you think of a person who would publish such rubbish in a newspaper and take pay for it besides?</p><P>Such modesty is very good proof that public opinion is entirely correct in declaring that when an organization composed of a hundred or two hundred persons inaugurates itself on a foundation composed of the "gall" of its "leader,"--who is a peddler of small orders of wine,--the ill-gotten gains of its male members, the shameless conduct of its female patrons, and the pitiable ignorance of its entire membership, that organization is, to say the least, composed of and governed by a peculiar brand of society.</p><P>It is with reference to this class of "society" that I use the word Parvenucracy, which, as I said in the preface, I coined expressly for this subject.</p><P>In reviewing the hall gatherings and the alleged private and exclusive "entertainments" of the Parvenucracy, it would be unfair to overlook a certain very important fact,--unfair, I say, yea, unjust and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:unpardonable, too, for it is the only redeeming feature that real respectability has ever discovered in one of those gatherings: They always have good music.  Blanchard, Brandt, Blum, Rosner, Huber, Ballenberg, Hynes, and other soul-stirring artists do what they can to charm and civilize mankind--and the Parvenucracy as well.</p><P>That good music has a tendency to soften the prejudices of good society against its worst enemies is an indisputable fact; but it is also a fact that good society is not obliged to cater to its enemies in order to hear good music.</p><P>The best orchestra may be secured by polite society, as well as by others, at the same rates--plus the commissions that Mr. Greenway and other leaders of the Parvenucracy demand from the orchestra leaders.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>I PREDICT that the public will be treated, some day, to an article in some reputable newspaper which will read about as follows:</p><P>Owing to the overwhelming demands of members of certain very uncertain classes of society for daily and Sunday personal mention in the "society columns" of public papers, as well as in weekly and monthly "journals" and cheap advertising sheets and pamphlets, it is now considered not only advisable, but also profitable, for the owners, editors, publishers, and business managers of several well-known papers of savory reputations to meet frequently in secret council and discuss certain plans pertaining to the management of this novel line of fake advertising.</p><P>This brilliant scheme originated in the fertile, if somewhat selfish, brain of the enterprising owner of a tall and very conspicuous red brick clock tower on the corner of Geary, Kearney, and Market Streets, San Francisco.</p><P>Special invitations, signed by the promoter of the scheme (who is also the owner of a rapidly expiring daily paper called the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm: ), were sent to the proprietors of each of the following papers: New York <HI REND="italics">Police Gazette</HI>
108.sgm:, New York <HI REND="italics">Mourning Journal</HI>
108.sgm:, New York <HI REND="italics">Standard</HI>
108.sgm:, New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Sunday Sun</HI>
108.sgm:, San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Evening Post-Wave</HI>
108.sgm:, Illustrated <HI REND="italics">World</HI>
108.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Warmed-overland Monthly</HI>
108.sgm:, all having more or less circulation among that unmistakable class of society to which their owners, editors, advertisers, and adherents are, by breeding, birth, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:education, private and public associations, and other personal qualifications, so justly entitled to admission and life membership.</p><P>The real object of the meeting was kept a profound secret until the enterprising promoter called the talented delegates to order, in the private music hall attached to his California Street residence.</p><P>Without wasting any valuable time in explaining the circumstances connected with the acquisition of that California Street residence from a late railroad magnate, who was given to a strange infatuation for a certain grass widow who subsequently became his daughter-in-law, the host and self-appointed chairman of the meeting arose and opened the ball about as follows:</p><P>"Gentlemen and brother newspapermen: My managing editor, Mr. John P. Young, will now make a speech and a motion."  [Applause.]</p><P>Mr. John P. Young arose, bowed gracefully, and addressed the meeting as follows:</p><P>"Mr. Chairman and gentlemen: Owing to the unreliable character of all the journalists attached to the papers which were not invited to send delegates to this meeting, it was decided to give out that it was to be merely a regular meeting of ourselves.  [Applause.]</p><P>"You all know that what's everbody's business is nobody's business; therefore, we will keep our business to ourselves, and monopolize the profits."</p><P>At the mention of the word "profits," all the delegates bucked up their years, and the chairman chuckled softly to himself at the propects of what the future seemed to have in store for him.</p><P>"Gentlemen," continued the speaker, "we are not in the newspaper business for our health.  You have noticed, perhaps, the growing desire of a certain class of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SELF-MADE CHRONIC(LE) CANDIDATE.<LB>"The Midwinter Fair photographic pass was especially designed to meet the requirements of the unreliable character of city newspaper men."-- <HI REND="italics">Director General M. H. de Young</HI>
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108.sgm:society to create the impression that it is the leading class.  Members of this class seldom read anything in the papers except the society news.  They will not take a paper that does not print notices of their movements and whereabouts at least once a week.  Some of those, like the Crockers, the Fairs, the Floods, the Goulds, the Murphys, the Sharons, and the Catherwoods imagine that the society notices have a tendency to offset the nasty stories about divorces, second establishments, outside heirs, etc."</p><P>Here the speaker produced some samples of San Francisco "society" news, and read:</p><P>"Mr. and Mrs. Charles L. Fair ( <HI REND="italics">nee</HI>
108.sgm: Maud Nelson) are spending a delightful `honeymoon' at the Hotel del Cannot-keep-them-out."</p><P>"Mr. and Mrs. George Crocker ( <HI REND="italics">nee</HI>
108.sgm: Mrs. Rutherford) have gone to New York in a private car."</p><P>"Mrs. W. F. Quack-Nut, and her charming daughter, Miss Louisa Maria Quack-Nut are at the See-me-make-a-fool-of-myself-on-the-beach Hotel.</p><P>"Mr. and Mrs. D. M. Delm-ass and `family' are at the same resort, and are occupying themselves in a similar fashion, with Miss Nellie Murphy as their `guest'; also Mr. Addie(son) Mizner, the Misses Goad, Mr. Herbert Mee, Mr. Birdie Irving and <HI REND="italics">others</HI>
108.sgm:."</p><P>The speaker put plenty of accent on the word " <HI REND="italics">others</HI>
108.sgm:."</p><P>Continuing, he said: "Now, gentlemen, with reference to the <HI REND="italics">others</HI>
108.sgm:, whose names are not mentioned, I have an idea that they forgot to `tip' the society reporter.</p><P>"It has occurred to our honored chairman that those <HI REND="italics">others</HI>
108.sgm: ought to be looked after, and if we can form some system for getting at the <HI REND="italics">others</HI>
108.sgm: in a quiet way, it will be a paying business."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Here the speaker stopped, to give the delegates a chance to grasp the idea.</p><P>"Gentlemen," said he, resuming, "I think I have made myself understood, therefore, to come to the point, I hereby make a motion that we organize ourselves into a company to be known to the public as the Associated Society News Bureau, but among ourselves it will henceforth and forever more be known as the Parvenu Advertising Agency.'" (Tremendous applause.)</p><P>"I second the motion!" yelled all the delegates at once.</p><P>The chairman thereupon instructed Mr. J. O'Hara Nosegrave, the secretary <HI REND="italics">pro tem</HI>
108.sgm:., to enter upon the minutes the first motion on record that was ever carried by unanimous seconds.</p><P>Then Mr. Geo. H. Bartlett, editor of the <HI REND="italics">World</HI>
108.sgm:, arose and said:</p><P>"I move that we elect our officers without further delay; and, to save time, I have prepared a ticket which I respectfully submit.  This ticket shall be elected to serve for a period of ten years:</p><P>"For president and director-general, Michael H. de Young, proprietor San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"For first vice president and general Eastern manager, Richard K. Fox, proprietor New York <HI REND="italics">Police Gazette</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"For second vice president and general manager of Southern mulatto colored society, Peter Kiernan, proprietor New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Sunday Sun</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"For secretary, J. O'Hara Nosegrave, part proprietor the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Wave</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>"For general managing editor of all notices, John P. Young, present managing editor San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE GREAT WESTERN PARVENU POLITICAL (KN)AIVERY.<LB>No longer a constant menace to every private home in California.<LB>"A San Franciscan is not generally recognized as a gentleman until he has been maligned by Mike DeYoung in the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm: or the <HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
108.sgm:."-- <HI REND="italics">Arthur McEwen's Letter</HI>
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108.sgm:<P>"For general-utility-man, Mr. E. M. Greenway, society reporter, San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm:."</p><P>"I second Mr. Bartlett's motion," said Mr. Spume of the <HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
108.sgm:, "and, in consideration of the fact that the company is to be for revenue only, and that we will require the services of a medical board and a law firm, I beg to submit the following names to be added to the ticket, subject to the approval of the president and Mr. Bartlett:</p><P>"MEDICAL STAFF:</p><P>"For surgeon-general, Dr. W. F. Quack-Nut.</p><P>"For medical adviser of debilitated men, Dr. B. F. Quack-Mon-eagle.</p><P>"For private surgeon to married Parve-New Women who are opposed to children, Dr. C. C. O'Donnell.</p><P>"LEGAL STAFF:</p><P>"For attorney general, Clara Shortridge Foltz.</p><P>"For assistant, Laura De Force Gordon.</p><P>"For appropriator of other people's property, D. M. Delmas."</p><P>"I accept and second Mr. Spume's amendment," said Mr. Bartlett, "and call for the question."</p><P>No objections being raised the chairman said: "It has been moved and seconded that we elect our officers on the ticket submitted by Messrs. Bartlett and Spume; all in favor, please signify, by saying `I.'"</p><P>All hands said "I," thus making it unnecessary to bother about the "Noes."</p><P>Mr. Joseph B. Eliot, business manager of the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm:, then submitted the following rates for classified reading notice society column advertisements in his paper:</p><P>For personal mention sufficient to establish one's identity as an ass-pirant for notoriety, one dollar a line.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Notices of arrivals, departures, movements, and whereabouts of "absent friends," ninety cents per line.</p><P>Notices of intended visits to friends residing outside the city limits, eighty-five cents per line.</p><P>For announcements of all private gatherings, such as "At homes," "Dinners," "Teas," "Theater parties," "Fruit-picker poker <HI REND="italics">se&acute;ances</HI>
108.sgm:," and other insignificant affairs about which the public never cares to read, fifteen cents per line.</p><P>For "full particulars" of the gatherings, including description of the hostesses' toilet articles and names of "those present," $1.50 per line.</p><P>For <HI REND="italics">de&acute;but</HI>
108.sgm: notices of daughters of saloon-keepers, gamblers, keepers of disorderly resorts, and others of that class, the charges will be regulated by the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;butante's</HI>
108.sgm: parents' ability to pay.</p><P>Mr. J. O'Hara Nosegrave, the Uriah Heep of San Francisco, then submitted the following rates for reading-notices in the <HI REND="italics">Wave</HI>
108.sgm:, in the part headed "Splashes."</p><P>For publishing pictures of nincompoops, and complimentary notices of same, such as: "William S. Barnes announces his intention of applying to Burnes, Buckley, Rainey, Huntington &amp; Company for the Southern Pacific octopus party's nomination for governor," one hundred dollars for each insertion, with picture of said nincompoop and would-be candidate on the front page.</p><P>For defending gamblers, bunko-men, "fruit-pickers," and all others of that class, at least fifty per cent. of the "income tax" of the games will be charged.</p><P>"For maligning reputable citizens who object to being victimized by the `fruit-pickers,' I generally get as much as the `fruit-pickers' may be willing to pay, out of the money that they accumulate from their unsuspecting friends in this way," said Mr. Nosegrave.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Mr. Hugh Spume, "editor" of the S.P.R.R. phonograph, called the <HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
108.sgm:, then submitted <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
108.sgm: rates, which are as follows:</p><P>For scandalous and incredible as well as indecent, lies about honorable men who may be chosen by the people to fill offices that the S.P. Railroad desires to control, I have instructions from my boss, Mr. Collis P. Huntington of New York and Kentucky, to take "all that the traffic will bear."</p><P>"For society notices I will use the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle's</HI>
108.sgm: schedule of charges," said Mr. Spume.</p><P>Mr. R. K. Fox, of the <HI REND="italics">Police Gazette</HI>
108.sgm:, then got up and announced that owing to hard times in police circles in his city since Dr. Parkhurst started in, he and his friend the owner of the <HI REND="italics">Morning Journal</HI>
108.sgm:, had decided to "toss up" for who should attend the meeting; therefore he (Mr. Fox) begged to acknowledge that he had won the "toss," and was there to arrange terms for the two papers on the following lines:</p><P>For defending in the <HI REND="italics">Morning Journal</HI>
108.sgm: any and all persons who may be maligned by the <HI REND="italics">Police Gazette</HI>
108.sgm:, one dollar per line.</p><P>For praising in the <HI REND="italics">Police Gazette</HI>
108.sgm: all fake prize fighters who, like Nigger Jackson, may from time to time be ridiculed in the <HI REND="italics">Journal</HI>
108.sgm: as well as in respectable papers, two dollars per line.  If accompanied by nude pictures, ten dollars a square inch is the regular price.</p><P>For telegraphing to the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
108.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm: the arrival of members of San Francisco Parvenucracy, twenty-five cents per word.</p><P>Mr. W. W. Foote, vice president of the <HI REND="italics">Warmed-overland-Monthly</HI>
108.sgm:, said that owing to the fact that Dick McDonald was in jail, and that the other bankers were not lending money on wildcat schemes, his paper would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:print editorial comments about persons, and things in general, very cheap.</p><P>Before submitting rates, however, it would be necessary to call a special meeting of the other directors: Judge J. H. Boalt, Irving M. Scott, H. J. Crocker, J. M. McDonald, and Roundhead Wildeman.</p><P>Mr. Peter Kiernan, editor of the New Orleans <HI REND="italics">Sunday Sun</HI>
108.sgm:, submitted some rates on which he said he had built up his paper.  Those were:</p><P>For declaring that the mulatto wenches of his city were daughters of wealthy Southern planters who intended to leave them large cotton plantations in Mississippi, he (Kiernan) got free board at African boarding houses, where the mothers of said mulatto wenches took in washing and transient boarders.</p><P>For introducing young negro bucks to those colored (yellow) wenches, he got fifty per cent. of all that they won at <HI REND="italics">craps</HI>
108.sgm:, to say nothing of the valuable consignments of watermelons, eggs, and chickens and other edible poultry that those colored "swells" sent him from the booty brought in from foraging parties in the settlements of the "poh white trash."</p><P>There being no objections to any rates that any of the talented delegates submitted, the chairman ordered the secretary to "O.K." everything.</p><P>Taking it all together, it was a very quiet meeting, and, to judge from the business-like manner in which everything passed off, the Parvenu Advertising Agency bids fair to become a well-known institution.</p><P>There being no further business before the house after Mr. Uriah Heep Nosegrave got through "O.K.-ing" society column advertising rates, it was moved by Mr. Fox, and seconded by Mr. Young, that the meeting adjourn subject to the call of the president.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Mr. de Young, president and doctor-general, then invited all the delegates to repair to the dining room, where he entertained them on some choice sandwiches and Mid-winter Fair beer (special brew), the feast concluding with champagne and a "stag" cotillion led by General Utility-Man E. M. Greenway.</p><P>As the guests filed out of the front door Mr. de Young handed each one a brand new package of Director-General Cigarettes, with a splendid pictures of himself on the wrapper of each package.</p><P>The editorial comments and opinions that will appear in the legitimate newspapers after the announcement of the incorporation of the new concern, will probably be something like this:</p><P>We note the announcement of the successful <HI REND="italics">de&acute;but</HI>
108.sgm: of a new advertising agency, which, judging from the names of its promoters and director, must have for its prime object the revival of Feudalism.  Therefore, we would suggest to the director-general the advisability of enrolling the following distinguished personages as honorary members:</p><P>Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, future King of England, Africa, and Ireland, leader of Oscar Wilde society, and the world's best known "living picture" of lust, immorality, and "consecrated" depravity.</p><P>Wilhelm II., Emperor of Germany, leader of sauerkraut and limburger cheese aristocracy, and the most prominent modern example of coronated imbecility.</p><P>Sanford B. Dole, "president" of the infant oligarchy of Hawaii, giant advocator of missionary hypocrisy, and arch-traitor to a feeble-minded female benefactress, whose authority he usurped by employing a dishonorable minister of the United States to assist him with the crew of the man-of-war <HI REND="italics">Boston</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>And last, but not least, Mr. Levi P. Tortoise Morton, and all the members of New York's Nigger-loving legislature that toady to the African voter.</p><P>Those honorary members would lend a "flavor" to the concern that could not be supplied even by the director-general.</p><P>From the ludicrous directory and five-cent liquor fake advertising publication, called <HI REND="italics">Our Society Blue Book</HI>
108.sgm:, printed by The H. S. Crocker Co., I copy the following advertisement:</p><P>"Friday Night Club, formerly called the Bachelors' Cotillion, was organized nine seasons ago.  It is composed of the junior members of the upper circles of society and is very exclusive, only members and their `immediate' families being invited to its meetings, which take place on the first Friday night in each month during the season.  Its
108.sgm:<HI REND="italics">bal poudre</HI>
108.sgm:, given once a year, is the great society event of the season.<LB>(Signed)<HSEP>"E. M. GREENWAY, Manager."</p><P>Mr. Greenway shows great forethought in stating distinctly in his advertisement that only "immediate" families of the members are entitled to admission.  That word "immediate" was, in all probability, inserted as a gentle hint to members who have more than one family or establishment.  Probably it means that members are expected to bring only the families that they happen to be living with at the time.</p><P>For further information I respectfully refer the reader to the divorce court proceedings, the bigamy cases, and the numerous litigations between supposed legitimate and illegitimate heirs, over the property of deceased members of Parvenucracy in San Francisco, Virginia City, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:New York, Paris, and North Dakota.  The latter State offers special inducements to the daughters of ex-washer-women who would like to be divorced from French princes and other cheap-titled vultures, who "marry" them for the accidentally acquired dollars of their mothers' "husbands."  Compare the names in the divorce court proceedings with those in the "society" reports, and they will afford food for genealogical reflection.</p><P>The above-mentioned "organization" (?) is alleged to be "the highest society," composed exclusively of the "uppercircles," "elegant gentlemen," "beautiful ladies," "lovely maidens," "marriageable virgins," "alluring heiresses;" compared in print with innocent girls who go to holy communion.  "Young princesses of society," welcomed with open arms by all the young cigarette fiends, Solomon Isaaceses, Uncle Harrises, fruit-pickers, and fake society reporters in the community.</p><P>"So young and happy; yet, oh! so alluringly rich and tremulous."</p><P>A well-known haberdasher volunteers the following advice to Mr. Greenway, society reporter and "leader."</p><P>"Bah, Ned!  Let go, and chase yourself around the block; tell stories about cotton gloves, or anything you like, but don't try to run any more of your exclusive society, advertising bluffs like that on us.</p><P>"That scheme is played clean out, Ned, so take a piece of good advice and quit it.  Everybody knows all about it, and the next thing you know they will find out all about your carryings-on with Amelia Glover, that ballet dancer who belonged to the `City Directory' troupe, which played at the California Theater about two years ago; and the Gayety girls, with whom your friends, Tobin and Casserly, got ahead of you.  Then, again, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:some unkind person might tell all about your proposing to sweet-breath Jennie, and of her refusing you, and afterward taking pity on you, and persuading her brother `Jim' to give you a salaried position as clerk in his mining office in the Nevada Block; and then you will be in a certain liquid that is referred to on the bills of fare of the `vulgar herd' as soup.</p><P>"Of course that should not affect your followers' opinions of you, for we all know that most of them are a great deal worse than you are.  But, Ned, my boy, you know what those vulgar parvenus are, as well as I do, so go right ahead, old fellow, and cinch them every time you get a chance.</p><P>"You are fairly good at inventing ideas of your own, Ned, and I do not think that you would hesitate about deceiving your Cotillion Club if you considered it necessary; so if they get on to all of your little tricks of the trade, just hire young Newhall, or young Wright, or young Wilberforce, or that not-yet-acknowledged son of your employer, de Young, or some other young nincompoop to let his good (?) name be used in place of yours as leader of one or two of your money-making dances; give out that you have abandoned the leadership, on account of the failure of certain new members to pay their subscriptions; say that you are sick and tired of bringing our <HI REND="italics">de&acute;butantes</HI>
108.sgm:, and that you positively refuse to do it any more, unless each application for admission to the swim is accompanied by ready cash; tell your parvenus that you are going to retire from your position as society reporter of the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm:, and that they will have to depend upon someone else to publish those glowing accounts of fake dinner parties to the Oelrichs, etc., etc.</p><P>"All of this, my boy, will create sympathy for you,--if they don't tumble to your little game of deception,--and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THIS EXPLAINS ALL ABOUT THE PARVENUCRACY.<LB>"The standing of San Francisco society leaders is on too high a plain to notice the remarks of others, or even to deem them worthy of thought."--Edward M. Greenway's opinion of himself and his Friday Night Cotillion Club.--S.F.  <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
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108.sgm:the whole female, and the majority of the male, portion of Parvenucracy will rise up in a body and restore you to your former <HI REND="italics">high</HI>
108.sgm: position in society.  They will return you to the office of self-elected leader with a majority equal in proportion to that which the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm: scored for Governer Budd.</p><P>"Amid the general rejoicing of the Parvenucracy, and the wailing and gnashing of teeth among your enemies whom you say you have already triumphed over, Ned, you will, if you handle it properly, be able to scoop in enough commissions from the musicians whom you hire to blow your own horn, and from the proceeds of the toasts that will be drunk to your health (from the liquids that you sell your friends for such festivities), to enable you to buy one of Mr. Ottinger's cut-rate tourist's tickets good for one through passage to Baltimore."</p><P>The position that Mr. Greenway occupies is, perhaps, the most unique one in the world.  As leader of his class he has never had a rival; something never before known in the history of the human race.  His versatile ideas of etiquette place him so far out of the reach of all who have any common-sense views of anything pertaining to good form, that whenever the San Francisco papers feel inclined to ridicule a reputable citizen, and call him all the ludicrous names in the dictionary, they have only to refer to him as "Mr. Greenway's rival."</p><P>Poor James Brett Stokes was generally believed to have occupied a place among men of sound sense, until his name got mixed in among those of Addison Mizner, Willis Polk, Alex Bazil Willieberforce, Max. Quack-Nut, Hubert Mee, Lee Lash, Harry Simpkins, "Birdie" Irving, "Wally" Cooke, "Georgie" Mearns, "Dick" Tobin, "Lord" Talbot Clifton, "Dan" McCarthy, "Sconchin" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Maloney, General Dimond, Amidee Joullin, and others of that ilk.  But where does he stand now?</p><P>That Mr. Andy Lawrence, the handsome city editor of the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:, can ruin a quiet citizen's reputation in three days, and without any malicious intent, is shown by the fact that the mere assertion that Mr. Stokes was seen skating with the above named members of Mr. Greenway's flock, subjected him to the suspicion of his employers.</p><P>Apropos of Mr. Greenway's originality, I should not be at all surprised at anything he might undertake in the future.  I believe that he is about to hand down from the clock tower of the Parvenu Advertising Agency a new set of commandments, to take the place of the old reliable ten that Moses broke.</p><P>Some fine morning the new rules for the government of the morals of the Parvenucracy will appear in all the papers controlled by Mr. Huntington, and I imagine they will be something like this:</p><P>TEN COMMANDMENTS OF E. MOSES GREENWAY.</p><P>I.  I am Greenway, thy leader.  Thou shalt not have any other leader.</p><P>II.  Thou shalt not take any notice of anything that is uttered against thy leader's good name.</p><P>III.  Remember that thou keep away from the park on the Sabbath Day, unless thou hast a very loud and vulgar turnout to drive, and a lackey to blow a bugle.</p><P>IV.  Honor thy father and thy mother as long as they honoreth thy check.</p><P>V.  Thou shalt not kill anything except thy unborn posterity which the Parve-New Woman prefereth not to bring forth.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE PRODIGAL SON UP TO DATE.<HSEP>"A notable event in Hebrew society circles last week was the return of Mr. Greenway, the San Francisco society `leader,' on a visit to his people."-- <HI REND="italics">Baltimore Society News</HI>
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108.sgm:<P>VI.  Thou shalt not commit any depredations upon thy neighbors' marriage rights, unless thou art sure of not getting caught.</p><P>VII.  Thou shalt not steal any more at one time than thou canst get away with.</p><P>VIII.  Thou shalt not bear false witness against thy neighbor, unless thou get well paid for it in advance; but, if thou art jealous of him, thou mayst have him sued for the board bill of his lady friend's chow dog.</p><P>IX.  Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's wife; but thou mayst marry thy common-law stepmother, if thou hast money enough to advertise her as a belle in Snob Hill Society.</p><P>X.  Thou shalt not drink soup out of a plate with thy face, nor go riding in evening dress at high noon, nor serve soap with finger bowls at thy dinners, any more, unless thou serveth Greenway's Cotillion Soft Soap.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>WE remained in Sydney about two weeks, during which time I became more impressed than ever with the absurdity of the prejudice which exists among certain classes in the Northern and Eastern States against the English and all persons who are British subjects, and a similar prejudice which prevails among the less enlightened elements of English society against America and everything that is American.</p><P>How persons of ordinary intelligence and common sense can become so narrow-minded, in these times of civilization and peace, as to entertain personal feelings on account of international differences of opinions, is more than I can understand.  With my personal experience, obtained during many years of travel, as a foundation for an opinion on this subject, I do not believe that citizens of either nation who insist on having personal disagreements over certain old international disturbances which are now regarded only as matters of history and things of the past,--by all persons except boodle politicians and their followers,--are possessed of an over-supply of any kind of sense.  We are now living in an age of peace and prosperity, and it is time that we should learn that we are civilized.</p><P>When I say "we," I do not include those insolent vultures and titled knaves who come over here from Europe to trade their empty titles and immaculate "gall" for the strangely accumulated dollars of certain vulgar old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:ex-hod-carrier, ex-haberdasher, and ex-barkeeper millionaires, with a daughter, or niece, or sister-in-law, or a "something else" thrown in.  Heaven forbid that I should include any such creatures as those when I begin a sentence or a paragraph with the pronoun "we," because they are practically beyond redemption.</p><illus entity="a108-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Types of "Americans" who hate everything that is English.</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:<P>Neither do I mean that other equally loathsome division of avowed enemies of society and civilization which includes anarchists, political bosses, bunko steerers, "fruit-pickers" and others.  I mean persons who recognize common sense as a legitimate basis upon which to regulate their dealings with their fellow-man and woman; persons who are loyal to the rules and regulations laid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:down in the great code or rule of action, called the law of nature, which is unquestionably the foundation of every just law of man.</p><P>It is a mistake to teach a person to do unto others as he would have others do unto him, unless you teach him to reverse the rule occasionally.  No gentleman who has the misfortune to be waylaid and set upon and attacked by a pack of cowardly ruffians, black-leg gamblers, or "fruit-pickers," is going to stand any such contemptible assault without fighting his assailants with whatever weapons he may have, or with his fists if he is unarmed, even though the thugs may be accompanied by one of their gang--in policeman's uniform--to arrest all the combatants, and cart the gentleman off to the police stations with them in the patrol wagon, and then compel the gentleman who was assaulted to send for a bondsman, while the thugs are allowed to go without bail.  Such things have happened right in San Francisco and New York, and the thugs have received complimentary notices from their family papers, the <HI REND="italics">Post, World</HI>
108.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Wave, Morning Journal</HI>
108.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Police Gazette</HI>
108.sgm:, whose disreputable proprietors are universally detested by all honorable journalists who know them.</p><P>But what are we to expect, since we have so many thugs and cut-throats on the police force, and so many knaves and blackguards in offices which are maintained at the expense of the honest taxpayers?  Thugs and cut-throats always stand in with each other, though they sometimes run big political bluffs to secure "blocks of votes," <HI REND="italics">a la</HI>
108.sgm: C. P. Huntington.</p><P>Those dishonorable office-holders, having been "squeezed" and "cinched" by the boodle political bosses like Burns, Rainey, Buckley, Platt, Hume, Cosgrave, and Bartlett, who nominate them, go into office <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:for what they expect to make out of the political industries known as bribery and blackmail.  They know that owing to the disreputable character of the "bosses" who put them up for election, they stand no show of ever being re-elected; so they take everything in <illus entity="a108-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Types of "Englishmen" who hate all the Americans.</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:sight--after the fashion of a certain Sheeny named Levy--during their term in office.  It is almost impossible to get a regular already-paid District Attorney to even listen to a charge preferred by an honest citizen against any one of those freebooters.</p><P>Persons who have no better sense, however, than to vote for a great, big, simple, flabby, overgrown booby, who prides himself on being hail-fellow-well-met with all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:the steam beer guzzling toughs in a city, deserve no sympathy.</p><P>The above is political society, and it is a part and parcel of Parvenucracy--an eternal disgrace to civilization, and an everlasting stain on the fair name of America.</p><P>On the 16th of May we took our departure from Sydney, on our return voyage to San Francisco.  My new friends came aboard the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm:, in a tugboat, just before we left our anchorage in the bay, to see us off.</p><P>For some time past the Wilsons had been making preparations for a trip around the world, by way of China and India to England, where they were to pay a visit to Mr. Wilson's parents and relatives; thence to New York, Washington, and Richmond, to see Mrs. Wilson's family and relatives, after which they intended returning to Australia, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: New Orleans, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Honolulu.  Miss Anna was to be one of the party as far as New York, where she was to be placed at some Eastern seminary to complete her schooling.</p><P>While Mrs. Wilson was outlining the proposed tour to me, on the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm:, the gong sounded.  The deck was crowded with passengers and their friends who had come aboard to see them off, but it did not take long for all not going to get down into the tugs alongside, from the decks of which they waved their parting farewells as the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: weighed anchor and steamed out of the harbor.</p><P>We touched at the usual ports of call <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
108.sgm: to San Francisco, and made one call that was not on the schedule.  When we stopped at Tutuilla, on the 25th of May, Captain Hayward received information that the English bark <HI REND="italics">Henry James</HI>
108.sgm:, bound from Newcastle, N.S.W., to San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HON. SAMUEL M. LONGSHORTRIDGE.<LB>"If I could only be induced to run for Senator, I would raise politics to a higher social standard."--Mr. Longshortridge, in the <HI REND="italics">Argus</HI>
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108.sgm:Francisco, and consigned to Balfour, Guthrie &amp; Co., had been wrecked at Palmyra Island, and that the captain, officers, crew, and passengers, including two ladies, were all on the barren island, except the first officer and four seamen, who had sailed all the way from the scene of the wreck (1350 miles) to Tutuilla, in one of the lost vessel's lifeboats, to look for assistance.  This information was followed by requests from the captain of the U.S.S.  <HI REND="italics">Mohican</HI>
108.sgm:, and the authorities at Apia, to Captain Hayward, to go to the rescue of the unfortunate mariners.  These requests were unnecessary, however, because Captain Hayward's mind was already made up.</p><P>Dispatching his business at Tutuilla as speedily as possible, Captain Hayward headed the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: for Palmyra, and gave Chief Engineer Harry Wilson--Handsome Harry as he is called--instructions to "speed her up," and get there as soon as possible.</p><P>Four days later we came to, off the treacherous coral reefs, and lowered a lifeboat, and picked up twenty-two of the most pitiable-looking human beings that I had ever seen in all my varied and checkered experiences.</p><P>The ill-fated bark had run upon the reefs at night, and she had gone down so suddenly that the crew hardly escaped with their lives, and just what clothing they had on.  All hands, except the watch on deck, were asleep at the time she struck, and had no time to dress.  In their excitement some of the men had left the wreck with nothing more in the way of baggage than that which they came into the world with.</p><P>They had been on the almost barren island fully six weeks, with nothing to shelter them from the broiling rays of the tropical sun except the scanty shade of a few cocoanut trees and two little huts, which had been erected there years before, evidently by some castaways, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:whose bleached skeletons were there to tell the ghastly tale of the relief that never came.  This, of course, added to the horror of the situation during the long and tedious wait of over forty days.  All that the unfortunate people had to eat during all this time consisted of cocoanuts and sea-bird eggs, which happened to be plentiful enough when they were first cast ashore, but had almost ceased to exist before relief came.  The birds, having discovered that their eggs were being devoured as fast as they could lay them, had abandoned the island and left their guests to starve.  Water they had in great abundance, for it rained a little almost every night; but they could not have survived many more days on water alone.</p><P>Had the mate's lifeboat been lost before she reached Apia, twenty-two additional skeletons would have been added to the half-dozen already on the lonely island.</p><P>First Officer Hart steered the lifeboat which brought the castaways from the reef to the ship.  The unhappy mariners were so black from the effects of the sun that they could scarcely be identified as having ever been born white.  Long before our arrival, all hands had given up hope, except the two ladies, who stood it bravely until they saw the little American steamer round up within plain view, when they collapsed--woman-like--after all danger was over, and knew nothing more until they found themselves in comfortable staterooms, surrounded by all the luxuries that modern steamships afford, in addition to which they had the genuine sympathy of a score or more of lady passengers.  When the famishing strangers were being passed from the lifeboat aboard the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm:, there was not a dry optic in the ship.</p><P>A sight which brought tears to the eyes of even Mr. Hart, was Captain Lattimore, the commander of the lost vessel.  He was the last one to come aboard.  His <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:uniform consisted of a piece of canvas about a yard long and ten inches wide, which he wore around his loins.  Sticking in this belt, he carried a huge sheath-knife.  He came aboard accompanied by his faithful Newfoundland dog, <illus entity="a108-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Captain Ralph Lattimore and his dog coming aboard the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm:which had been his companion during many stormy voyages.  Purser Smith and Dr. Giberson assisted the captain on board, and, each gentleman taking him by an arm, they escorted him up to the bridge and presented him formally to Captain Hayward.  As the latter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:gentleman extended his hand to his unfortunate brother mariner, Captain Lattimore took his sheath-knife from his belt and said: "Captain Hayward, allow me to surrender to you my command, and all that I possess in the world."  At the same time his faithful dog sat down in front of Captain Hayward and held up his big, shaggy paw for the old man to shake, whining moanfully, as if pleading for his master.</p><P>Hayward is a strong man, but this was a little too much for him.  He tried hard to smile, but he had to turn his head away and reach for his handkerchief, while he led Captain Lattimore into his private cabin and bade him help himself to anything on board the ship.</p><P>When the excitement of receiving the weather-beaten British tars had subsided somewhat, His Reverence the Archbishop of New Zealand, who was a passenger on board the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: on his way to Rome, sent word around to the other gentlemen passengers to assemble in the social hall.  There were about twenty-five of those gentlemen, including Englishmen, Frenchmen, Italians, Germans, Spaniards, and Americans, and each man understood what the Archbishop meant.  In less time than it takes to write this story, over <HI REND="italics">&pound;</HI>
108.sgm: 125, equal to over 3000 <HI REND="italics">francs</HI>
108.sgm:, or the same amount of <HI REND="italics">marks</HI>
108.sgm:, or at least 1000 <HI REND="italics">pesos</HI>
108.sgm:, or about $600, were subscribed willingly by the passengers, and turned over to the good Archbishop, who in turn divided the contributions equally among the rescued castaways, adding a dollar to each out of his own pocket.</p><P>On the first of June we arrived at Spreckels' dock at Honolulu, where Captain Hayward turned over to British Minister Wodehouse the twenty-two English subjects.</p><P>The next day, June 2, we left Honolulu and pointed our prow for San Francisco.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>ON Saturday the 9th of June, 1888,--exactly sixty-two days from the date of our departure from San Francisco,--we passed in through the Golden Gate and steamed on up the bay to Folson Street pier.</p><P>I do not remember having ever heard of a voyage of such a great distance so entirely free from storms.  From the day of our departure until our return, during which time we steamed more than 14,500 miles, almost equal to the total distance from New York to Yokohama, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: the Suez Canal, we experienced what the poets might have termed "heavenly weather."  For days and days at a time during this long cruise the sea was actually as smooth as a mirror; the only disturbance on the surface of the water being the ripples caused by the ship, as she plowed her way along at the rate of 325 miles a day.</p><P>Upon our arrival at the wharf all the passengers assembled up forward of the pilot house to bid Captain Hayward and his officers farewell.  They closed this lively ceremony by singing "Auld Lang Syne," in which all hands joined, and kept it up until they got out on the dock, where, as they emerged one by one from the gangway, they were quickly gobbled up by the hotel runners and hack fiends, and driven off uptown.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: was scheduled to remain in port about three weeks.  The prospects of sleeping on board alongside of the wharf, and breathing sewer gas until sailing day, did not suit me; and besides this, I did not like the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:idea of taking my meals at the Oceanic Steamship Co.'s contract hash house, just outside the dock gate, for twenty-one consecutive days.</p><P>Nature endowed me with a digestion that will stand salt horse, hard tack, black coffee, cracker hash, dried apples, "soup-and-bully," baked sailor beans, and all other nautical luxuries, from one end of the year to the other, but she forgot to supply me with the necessary gastronomic equipments to digest the <HI REND="italics">menu</HI>
108.sgm: of a city front boarding house, such as the <HI REND="italics">cafe&acute;</HI>
108.sgm: where the Spreckels' feed the employees on their steamers.  So I went uptown to look around for a respectable boarding house where I could rent a room on the European plan, and take my meals wherever I pleased.  Not knowing the lay of the land as well as I do now, I decided to look in the advertising columns of a morning paper.  With this object in view, I purchased a copy of the <HI REND="italics">Bronicle</HI>
108.sgm: and read:</p><P>"Hotel Veller Blister, the only strictly first-class family boarding house in the city.  Elegantly furnished apartments for bachelors.</p><P>"Special inducements to ladies whose husbands are absent a good deal of the time.  Patronized by high society, and all the leading retired business men and army and many officers.  Guests allowed to receive their friends at any time, day or night.  Guests introduced into high society on reception days without any extra charge.  The very best brands of liquid refreshments kept on hand constantly.  No questions asked.</p><P>"For further particulars call or address the proprietress, <HI REND="italics">Mme. Spolnie de Parvenu Vahlding</HI>
108.sgm:, charter memeber of the Pacific Coast Scandal Association, corner of Taylor and Rosin Streets.</p><P>"Take O'Farrell Street cars; get off at corner Jones and Rosin Streets, and walk back one block."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>I did not care to answer the above, so I purchased a copy of the <HI REND="italics">Squall</HI>
108.sgm: and discovered the following:</p><P>"Hotel Pleasure-and-fun, positively the only leading house in town.  Private families accommodated and accumulated in any style desired.</p><P>"Marriage certificates not required.</p><P>"All kinds of amusements right in the house, including weekly dances led by Mr. Greenroad, from whom society notices in the <HI REND="italics">Post, World, Wave</HI>
108.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm: may be had very cheap.  Only one block from the famous Fruit-picker Poker Club; also convenient to the leading side entrances, dives, opium joints, and massage parlors.</p><P>"For special rates, see her highness, Mme. Spend-me-money-for-fun-dleton, sole owner" (until sold out by the sheriff).</p><P>I glanced over a few more of the <HI REND="italics">Squall's</HI>
108.sgm: extraordinary ads., such as "Hotel Mira-hole," "The Fuss House," "Hotel de Massage," "Hotel de Maud Nelson, 404 Stockton Street," and other first class society and family resorts for restless spirits, and finally I decided to place the following ad. in the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm::</p><P>"Wanted, by strange young man, room in private family.  Address 124 Fuss House."</p><P>I then went to the Fuss House and turned in to await developments.  Anything in the way of a hotel as far up town as Montgomery Street was better than sleeping on board ship at low tide--so I thought at the time.  After battling with the Fuss House fleas and bedbugs until six o'clock the next morning, when a bellboy banged at my door and told me that a gentleman wanted to see me, I changed my mind.  What on earth could a gentleman want of me at 6 A.M., and when I had not yet been able to persuade the ravenous fleas to let me sleep a wink?  Was the ship on fire, or what?</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Jumping into my clothes, I ran downstairs and asked the sleepy clerk where the gentleman was.</p><P>"There he is," said the clerk, jerking his thumb in the direction of seven or eight dilapidated old hod-carriers and other tough-looking citizens whom the porter had formed in line just outside the door.</p><P>"Gentlemen," said I, "there must be some mistake."</p><P>"Naw, it aint no mistake," answered all my visitors in chorus, calling my attention to a morning paper, a copy of which each one held up.</p><P>"Is ye the bloke what put that ad in the <HI REND="italics">The 'xam'ner</HI>
108.sgm:?' asked all my ceremonious callers.  While this was going on, several more "gentlemen" called, and demanded to see the "mug thot wants ter rint a room and board."  Soon I was besieged by at least twenty of the toughest-looking Baldwin Hotel block voters that you ever saw.  Each householder claimed that his house was the best private house in town, and each one said that he had a musical family.  One big duffer who had been on a drunk all night, caught me by the arm and bellowed into my ear something which sounded like, "Say, cul, jest ye come along wid me, and see my house in Natoma Street; it's ther best house South-o'-Market, see?"  So saying he gave me a pull by the sleeve which nearly tore the coat off me.</p><P>Just what would have happened to me in the course of this interview, had it continued any longer, I am not quite sure, for just about this time Mr. See-less, the proprietor, rushed to my assistance with several clerks and bell boys and the porter, and fired all of my visitors out of the house.</p><P>"Young man," said Mr. See-less good-naturedly, "don't you know better than to put an advertisement like that in a reputable paper in San Francisco?  You <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:see all the honest laborers read the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:, because it `kicks' against organized political knavery, such as the Huntington, Rainey, Burns, Buckley, Platt, Crocker, <HI REND="italics">Chronical, Post, Wave, World</HI>
108.sgm:, Dennis Kearney, Dr. O'Donnell, S.P.R.R. combination of ballot-box stuffers, who are in favor of exterminating everyone who talks about an opposition railroad, or thinks about senators and congressmen chosen according to the wishes of the people, or, in fact, anyone who tries to be honest.  Those poor devils whom we had to throw out just now, were once well-to-do-citizens; now just look at them; what are they?  They have been reduced to the condition of beggars by the domination of organized political capital.  They are now making a last effort to rent out the best rooms in their humble homes in order to get a few dollars to buy bread for their starving families.  If something is not done soon, Heaven only knows what will become of their daught--"</p><P>"Here's a note, mister," said a timid voice, interrupting our conversation, "it's from my mamma."</p><P>I will give the contents of this letter, as an illustration of several dozen more of the same date and tenor:</p><P>No.--MISSION STREET,</p><P>SUNDAY, June 10, 1888.</p><P>DEAR SIR:</p><P>I can let you have a nice sunny room, with or without board, at your own price.  My husband has been out of work for two months and is sick.  I must raise enough money this week to pay our water bill or the Spring Valley Company will shut off our supply and sell us out.  We have only two rooms, but we will give up the front room and sleep in the kitchen if you decide to accept.</p><P>We will do our best to please you, for we must raise a little money.  Cars pass the door.  Take Mission Street horse cars and get off at Sixth Street.<HSEP>Very respectfully yours,</p><P>P.S.--No small children about the house.<HSEP>MRS. SMITH.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Just about this time the letter carrier came in with the local mail, and the clerk, after sorting it out, handed me no less than seventeen letters.  Those letters had all been taken to the post office before eight o'clock, in order to be in time for the local Sunday morning delivery, which is the only Sunday delivery made by carriers.  I was obliged to tell the little boy who brought the note from Mission Street, that I could not take the room on account of the inconvenience of the locality.</p><P>I had heard of South-of-Market before, and, while I am far from being prejudiced against the inhabitants of that part of San Francisco on account of the line which some so-called polite social organizations of fruit-pickers have drawn from the ferry landings to the summit of the Twin Peaks, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: Market Street and the proposed extension of the cable car line to the ocean, I must acknowledge that I could not afford to run the risk of being mistaken for a "ballot stuffer."<ANCHOR ID="n20-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-1">South-of-Market proper takes in all that section from Market and Tenth Streets, south and west to the Bay, including Tar Flat, which is still unexplored.  The <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:<P>The hotel people volunteered some very valuable information on how a young unmarried man should live in San Francisco.  Among other things they told me that I would not be satisfied with private family board, unless I had a very obliging temper; because families who take in boarders invariably want to know all about one's private affairs, and they insist on having their boarder sit in the family pew at church.  They added that they thought I would be better satisfied if I boarded at the Fuss House; but I still had a very distinct recollection of the hungry fleas in that establishment, and I refused to accept their opinions.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Returning aboard the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: that night, I remained there several days before venturing uptown again.</p><P>Sewer gas and Spreckles' East Street hash house were preferable to hotel fleas and South-of-Market "room-to-let" fiends.</p><P>When I went uptown again, I called at the Fuss House and asked for my mail.  I did not go in at the main entrance on Montgomery Street, but sought the "private" entrance on Bush Street.  This "private entrance," so I learned afterward, is used not infrequently by newly "married" couples, who slip in and register as Mr. Smith and wife from Santa Rosa, Petaluma, Sacramento, San Jose&acute;, and other interior towns, and leave the following morning before breakfast; the "husband" going to his office somewhere downtown, and the "wife" returning to her home, or establishment, or some other woman's husband's establishment uptown.  Hence the sign "Ladies' Entrance" on the side door.</p><P>But the Fuss House is not by any means the only hotel in San Francisco where two persons can go in and register as "Mr. and Mrs.--," and get all the accommodations that they want without being required to tell how long they have been married, or why they are traveling with nothing in the shape of baggage except, perhaps, a little hand satchel with nothing in it but a comb.</p><P>The line in the modern hotel advertisements which says, "Guests entertained on either the American or European plan," means a good deal more to the average man about town than it does to the uninitiated.  What those two plans,--American and European,--do not include in the way of permanent and transient hotel accommodations, amounts to very little that there is any money in.  And yet there are many families of highly respectable people, whose private associations are above reproach,--as far <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:as the world knows,--who prefer hotel and boarding house life to the home comforts which they are well able to have.  Those people give all kinds of excuses for their presence in hotels.  Some say they "can't get the kind of servants that they want," some complain of "burglars and footpads and peddlers and book agents and fake society reporters and other public pest,"  while there are others who declare that they are "sick and tired of housekeeping and are stopping at the hotel just to get a little rest."</p><P>Now these excuses all sound very well, and sometimes they call for some sympathy, but not often.  The trouble with a great many wealthy families who board out in this fashion is simply this: They are too confounded lazy to keep house.  There are others, however, who have high social aspirations, and, having no social standing and knowing no one who has any, they go to the fashionable hotels in order to get into "society."</p><P>There are only two classes of boarders who really have legitimate excuses for living in hotels: the army and navy class, which includes steamship captains and officers; and the professional and business men who move frequently.  Many of these have no homes of their own, and they shift about from place to place so often and so suddenly at times, that they hardly have time to pack their trunks.</p><P>What I was looking for, when I advertised for a room in a private family, was a nice, respectable place, where I could stay between voyages, and leave my little belongings during my absence.</p><P>When I went to the office of the Fuss House, on the occasion above mentioned, the clerk handed me about an ordinary waste basketful of letters and cards of people who had answered the advertisement.  After reading a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:few dozen of those epistles, and calling at several of the numbers given, including a house in Bond Street, and a few <HI REND="italics">massage</HI>
108.sgm: parlors up in the neighborhood of Mason and Ellis Streets, I was about to give it up as a bad job, when, on returning to the hotel for some lunch, I received a nice-looking note which attracted my attention.  Just what there was about this particular note that caused me to read it over twice, and put it in my pocket before going to lunch, I did not stop to consider at the time.  Subsequent developments caused me to refer to it again and paste it in my diary for future reference.  It differed very little from several other notes from the same town, and, although I had never for one instant thought of going to "the other side of the bay" for a room, I decided to answer this note in person.</p><P>Here is the note:</p><P>EAST OAKLAND, June 14, 1888.</p><P>TO MR.--, 124 FUSS HOUSE:</p><P>Having seen your advertisement in the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:, should be pleased to have you call and see nice room which will probably suit you.</p><P>920 Sixth Ave., Clinton Station.</p><P>There was no name signed to the note, but the hand-writing was sufficient to convince me that the writer possessed more than ordinary culture.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>FRIDAY is said to be an unlucky day on which to begin a journey or form an acquaintance.  Let us see how much truth there is in this old superstition.</p><P>On Friday, the 15th of June, 1888, I went to Oakland for the first time, except when I passed through there on my way to Mare Island, the year before.</p><P>Getting off the local train at Clinton Station, I asked the conductor if he could tell me where No. 920 Sixth Avenue was.</p><P>"Yes," said the conductor; "it's the second house on the right."</p><P>No. 920 was a neat little two-story house, standing in a large lot which took in about one-half of the block.  About three-fourths of the yard was shaded with peach, plum, cherry, pear, and apple trees, and the rest was laid out in nice flower beds and croquet grounds, and a big white rose bush formed a pretty bower a few yards from the front door.  All the flowers were in full bloom.</p><P>While there was nothing pretentious about this little home, there was an air of daintiness about it which I had to stop and admire as I entered the gate.  A pleasant lady of perhaps thirty-five opened the door for me, and appeared very much surprised when I informed her that I had received her note and would like to see the room that she wanted to let.</p><P>Mrs. Bell invited me in, and explained to me that she had not written the note at all; that the young ladies had noticed the personal in the paper, and had answered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:it more in a spirit of fun than anything else.  They never thought for an instant that I would come to East Oakland, when there were so many nice families in the city who were taking in boarders.  Mrs. Bell was not over-anxious to let the room, but since I had called she would show it to me anyway, and if it suited, I could have it.  The terms were very satisfactory, and the room suited me; so, after exchanging a few references, and discovering that we had several mutual acquaintances in the navy, I engaged the room with board, and returned to San Francisco for my baggage, telling Mrs. Bell that I would be over the following day in time for dinner.</p><P>The next day, June 16, after packing up my things and sending them down to the ferry landing to be checked, I walking up as far as Kearney Street to make some little purchases--some collars and neckties, I think.</p><P>On my way down to the boat I met Captain Searle on Post Street, between Kearney and Montgomery.  I was under the impression that the captain was on board his ship, the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:, which vessel was in China at the time.</p><P>Captain Searle spoke to me as I was passing along, and I stopped and asked him how he happened to be in San Francisco when his ship was in Hong Kong.</p><P>The captain explained that upon his return here from China in April, his vessel had been quarantined again, and that all hands had gone through with a similar experience to that of January and February.</p><P>Having grown sick and tired of being quarantined upon his return from every voyage, he had decided to take a leave of absence, and let Mr. Deering, his first officer, take his place as captain for one voyage.</p><P>"This," said Captain Searle, "is the first time that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:have set foot on shore since last November.  No one cares about going ashore on the other side, on account of the smallpox epidemic, which has been raging out there since last year; and the Board of Health of San Francisco will not allow anyone to land from the steamers returning from China until they shall have spent twenty-one days in quarantine."</p><P>The captain then asked me something about myself, and where I had been since I left the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: and the quarantine ship.  He was surprised when I told him that I had just returned from a voyage to Australia, and that I was quartermaster of the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm:.  The conversation ended by the captain inviting me to call upon him at the Palace Hotel when I had nothing better to do.</p><P>Thanking Captain Searle for the courtesy of his invitation, I went on down to the Market Street ferry and crossed over to Oakland, and moved my valise and the rest of my things into my new quarters at Mrs.  Bell's, and, acting upon my hostess' advice, proceeded to make myself at home and get ready for dinner.</p><P>Mrs. Bell had said something about some young ladies who had answered my advertisement in the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:, and I began to wonder who those young ladies were; whether they were members of the household or just some visitors, and whether they were pretty or not.</p><P>I ceased wondering, however, when Charlie, the fifteen-year-old son of the hostess, came to my room and, informing me that dinner was ready, took me into the dining room, where his mother introduced me to the young ladies in question.</p><P>There were three of them, and they turned out to be a little of everything that I imagined them; <HI REND="italics">i. e</HI>
108.sgm:., members of the household <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
108.sgm: visitor; and all three were prettier than the general average of young ladies whom one meets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:nowadays.  This is saying a good deal, considering the fact that we were in California, and especially in Oakland, where some--but not all by any means--of the loveliest girls who attend the San Francisco balls and Palace Hotel cotillions reside.</p><P>In presenting me to this happy young trio, the hostess explained that Miss Grace and Miss Theo were her daughters, and Miss Brunner was their friend from the city, who was visiting the family for a week or two.  Miss Theo and Miss Brunner were native daughters; the latter very much so, as her father was one of a shipload of genuine Forty-niners who came out <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: Panama and settled in Sacramento, where Miss Brunner was born.  Miss Grace, the hostess' elder daughter, might as well have been a native.  She was born in New York just as her mother was about to return to California from a visit to her Eastern relatives.  Like her younger sister, and her friend from the city, she possessed a good many other California traits besides good looks.  She was bright and smart, and could play and sing beautifully.  All three were fairly good at repartee, which fact I discovered very soon after making some very commonplace remark concerning something which I had heard about the "wildness and wool" of the far West.  Incidentally they gave me to understand that I should henceforth speak of California as "The Pacific Slope," and not to dare refer again to Oakland as a suburb of a new western mining center.  Three to one proved too much for me, so I had to make believe that I thought Oakland was just a little bit better than New Orleans, and that San Francisco was away ahead of New York.  Anything, you know, for the sake of family peace.</p><P>The hostess was the widow of a noted lawyer who had practiced in California courts ever since such luxuries as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:divorce courts and other institutions for the legal facilitation of polygamy had been introduced out here.  She was well posted concerning things in general, including the histories of all the prominent men like Mackay, Fair, Flood, O'Brien, de Young, Crocker, Huntington, Hopkins, Stanford, Sharon, Ralston, Mills, and a host of others who came here with a good deal of faith in luck, and grew rich very suddenly and unexpectedly, and many others, like Delmas, Quack Nutt, Goad, Mizner, BcMean, Not-All, Cooke, Mearns, and some more of the hanger-on ilk, who never got rich, and never will, by honesty or any process, because the <HI REND="italics">other</HI>
108.sgm: processes are played out.</p><P>Very few of those people possessed much in the way of culture or refinement, and the private lives led by some of them, even after they grew rich, or "prominent," were in some cases considered too demoralizing to be discussed in open court.</p><P>I do not approve of denying the public the right to attend court in any case, no matter what objections the contending parties may raise.  Judges are paid by the public, and the public has a right to hear and see what the judges are doing.</p><P>Any attempt to suppress the truth is equivalent to a lie.</p><P>The heirs (?) of those very people proclaim that, outside of their set, no one on this great Pacific Slope is entitled to social recognition.  Their set, or <HI REND="italics">clique</HI>
108.sgm:, which they speak of as "the highest circles of society," numbers, according to their own published lists and figures, scarcely one hundred families, some of which are not even native born Americans--a few of them being Jews of low alien birth.</p><P>Now, we will average up the members of "The One Hundred Families," at, let us say, four members to each house-holder, including husbands, first and "second" wives, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:such offspring as they may have brought into the world, and such street gamins and "outside" children as they may have "adopted," and the entire membership of the "colony," with all the "heirs" born in and out of wedlock, including those which were not intended to have been born at all, will probably foot up four hundred beings in human form.</p><P>This "colony" is not very prolific.  The women, as a rule, cannot afford to deprive "society" of the time that natural mothers usually devote to their offspring.</p><P>According to their "civilization," raising legitimate children is not "fashionable."</p><P>Doctor O'Donnell has no recognition in this set, except as a close-mouthed "practitioner."</p><P>This, kind reader of the society columns, is the <HI REND="italics">set</HI>
108.sgm: which the world has been commanded to esteem and honor as the best citizens of California.</p><P>"The leading set," "the dictators of society," empowered to set the fashions in all things social and otherwise, including the latest and most approved methods of ruining the lives of pure, innocent daughters of honorable citizens, and literally dragging them down into the very sewers and free dumps of degradation.</p><P>"The great Four Hundred," to whose Feudalism one must submit and ask no questions, or, <HI REND="italics">object</HI>
108.sgm: and be slandered, maligned, libeled, publicly insulted, and persecuted by Mammon for having the awful audacity to cling to the laws of one's God and nature--the foundation of civilization and society.</p><P>"The great `Kings' of Snob Hill, and the S. P. Railroad Royalty," to whom you and I and ours whom we love have been commanded to bow down and acknowledge as our dictators and rulers, by the grace of fraudulently acquired wealth and Satanic, unnatural depravity.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Get down on thy knees, foolish, deluded citizens, and worship thy sovereign, "King" Collis the First; bring along the fairest and purest of thy young girls, the flowers of thy households, and present them as sacrifices; lay them at the feet of thy king that the favorite of his harem--with whom he lived for years before marrying her--may select the choicest morsels for her sultan, and then bid the nobility, Princes Crocker, Sharon, Fair, Sage, Mills, Flood, Markham, Paxton, Daggett, Dimond, Tobin, Gould de Young, <HI REND="italics">et. al.</HI>
108.sgm:, to draw lots for second choice.  After this, the lesser nobles,--the court hangers-on, so to speak,--like Delmas, Quack-Nut, Goad, Mizner, McBean-eater, New-it-all, Wise, Sheldon, and Casserly will be admitted.</p><P>At the end of the great modern slave mart, the harem will be thrown open to the footmen, caterers, scavengers, lackeys, and general utility men, like J. O'Hara Nosegrave, Hugh Spume, R. K. Fox, Wally Cooke, Peter Kiernan, Georgie Mearns, Little "Birdie" Irving, George H. Bartlett, Harry Wise, Ed. Greenway, the "fruitpickers," and Nigger Jackson.</p><P>Come, come, Californians, hurry up and obey "King" Collis!  The "king" will punish you severely if you grumble.</p><P>Hold on!  Let us investigate.</p><P><HI REND="italics">What!  Has anyone the audacity to disobey the "king's" command</HI>
108.sgm:?</p><P>Has anyone ever dared to question "King" Collis' authority to issue such a command?</p><P>There must be some excuse for raising "impertinent" questions concerning the right of 400 persons to proclaim themselves the acknowledged dictators of 299,600 others who reside in the same city, and about 200,000 of whom are law-respecting citizens.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WHAT MISS CALIFORNIA FINDS IN HER SOCIETY FLOWER GARDEN.<LB>It is a well-known fact that rank weeds, noxious herbs, and pestiferous vermin will over-run legitimate flower beds, and sap the life out of everything, if not weeded out.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:<P>Let us see if we cannot find an excuse.</p><P>Did you ever get up before daylight of a cold, clear, frosty morning, and take a constitutional walk in the suburbs?</p><P>Try the experiment, and when you reach the spot known as the "free dump" for garbage, you will notice by the light of the gray dawn, a thin, white veil of frost which, during the stillness of night, nature has thrown over the uncanny substance in the dump.  You will have an idea that beneath that white frosty mantle there is something unclean and putrid.  Just wait a little while until the sun comes out and melts the frost, and you will see the necessity of having the attention of the public called to the nuisance.</p><P>Perhaps through false modesty you may be afraid to speak of it, openly, to the public.</p><P>Perhaps you may be afraid of raising too much of an unwholesome odor all at once.  But that is where you are wrong, my boy.  It would be far better in the end to have the corruption cleared away at once, even though it <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
108.sgm: perfume the air for a little while, than to leave it there to decay by degrees, sending forth its foul, putrid breath, year in and year out, and poisoning with fatal disease germs the very air which, but for its malodorous presence, would be pure.</p><P>Now, just convert your imagination into a long pole and lift up the white mantle of charity, which, during the stillness of the Lenten season, some sympathetic person may have thrown over "King" Huntington's harem.  Take a peep at the foundation of its high social pretensions, and you will find in its composition such ingredients as unnatural depravity, arrogance, presumption, gross dishonesty, unpardonable ingnorance, female boldness, hellish hypocrisy, and family skeletons in flimsy boxes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:the lids of which their owners essay to hold down with sacks of ill-gotten dollars.</p><P>If you read the legitimate newspapers you must have noticed that whenever there is a dispute over any of those ill-gotten dollars, the skeletons invariably make their appearance as soon as the courts of law assume temporary charge of the "sacks."</p><P>And yet the winners of those very "sacks"--no matter who or what they may have been before the legal squabble for the dollars commenced--are always eligible to membership in the Parvenucracy, or the "Four Hundred," as the self-elected leader, or general-utility-man, Greenway, is pleased to term this odoriferous mixture.</p><P>Charity is all very well in its place.  It's said to begin at home, but the destroyers of happy homes are not objects of charity.  They may profess to be charitable, but "robbing Peter to pay Paul" (a small percentage) is not charity.</p><P>No possessor of enough common sense to vote will admit that he has ever taken a respectable lady to one of the gatherings of the Parvenucracy, unless he did it merely through curiosity, to let her see what really was there.  Decent people go through the "tenderloin," when it comes to that, just to see the former homes of the Parvenucracy.</p><P>There is a class of scavengers, like Nosegrave, Hume, Cooke, and other society reporters, who poke their noses into everything, and publish complimentary notices of Parvenucratic gatherings, and make money out of it.  Hume told me with his own mouth, one day, right in front of the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm: office, that "anything was all right if there was any money in it."</p><P>Of course those scavengers will tell all kinds of lies about anyone who has the awful audacity to publish the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:above facts; for it will take away the fake advertising revenue of their pitiable little sheets, the <HI REND="italics">Post, World</HI>
108.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Wave.</HI>
108.sgm:</p><P>Their worthless criticisms amount to nothing.  No one with a grain of sense ever believes a word of the bosh that is published in the above-mentioned sheets, because everybody knows very well that they will print almost anything that they can get, if it is accompanied with the right kind of paper-weights.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Post's</HI>
108.sgm: malicious and cowardly assaults on Governor Budd, and the way the public treated those vile slanders, all go to prove that I know what I am talking about.</p><P>That the honest voters of San Francisco look upon this catch-penny <HI REND="italics">Evening Post</HI>
108.sgm: as a malicious and libelous sheet, and its ignorant and egotistical "editor," Hume, as a falsifier, is shown by the fact that on the 6th of November, 1894, they gave James H. Budd a majority of nearly twelve thousand votes, right in San Francisco.</p><P>In picturing Spew Hume as the juvenile yellow quadruped <HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
108.sgm:, hired by the octopus to bark and whine for the railroad candidates during the campaign, Mr. Davenport, the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm: caricaturist, expressed the minute portion of the candid opinion that the honest portion of the public had time to bestow upon this ineffable little animal.</p><P>A talented cartoon artist like Mr. Davenport is a public benefactor when he devotes his ability to the interests of good government, as this gentlemen has been doing since the <HI REND="italics">Monarch</HI>
108.sgm: employed him.</p><P>Long live the caricaturists who possess honor, integrity, and common sense, and the courage of their convictions!</p><P>Hume, Bartlette and Nosegrave, "editors" of the <HI REND="italics">Post, World</HI>
108.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Wave</HI>
108.sgm:, remind the average citizen of professional odoriferous cats.  They differ from these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:peculiar cats in one respect only: the cats perfume the atmosphere free of charge, and Hume, Bartlett, and Nosegrave hire themselves out to produce a similar result at so much per whiff.</p><P>A prominent attorney of this city tells me that shortly after the announcement that I was writing a book on <HI REND="italics">Society as it Really Is</HI>
108.sgm:, Spew Hume telephoned to him to come to his office to see him on business.  The attorney went to Hume's office, and what do you think he wanted to see him about?</p><P>Knowing that the lawyer was a friend of mine, this vulgar fellow endeavored to find out from my friend what I was writing about.  Failing to get any satisfaction from the attorney, Hume informed him that if I said anything in the book about certain persons they would shoot me on sight.</p><P>Among the dangerous shooters whom he intimated would slaughter me if I published the truth about them, were the "fruit-pickers," referred to in Chapters XIII and XIV, and himself (Hume), all dead shots with anything in the line of firearms, from a dynamite cannon to a certain Oriental weapon, that was used with deadly effect by the Chinese "soldiers" engaged in "defending" their opium dens against the forces of the Mikado, which weapon is referred to by the war correspondents as a "Chinese stink-pot."  The last mentioned weapon is Hume's favorite.  In addition to the old, original "fruit-pickers," who were standing by to exterminate the author as soon as the book came out, Hume named one person whom I had never heard of.  I believe that it was a scheme of Mr. Hume and his friends to get their names mentioned in this book, and the author, being of a charitable turn of mind, will not disappoint them.</p><P>There are some nincompoops in this world who imagine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:that they are of sufficient importance to receive mention in every publication that is issued, and they never forgive a writer who forgets them.  When anything new is about to come out, they want to be in it, and if they can't get there in one way, they will in some other.  This last mentioned friend of Hume and the other "fruit-pickers" must be a representative of that class of boobies.  His name is Wise, and I wish to say that if Harry Wise sent any such message as the one that was brought to me from Mr. Hume, he must be less "wise" than even his pictures in "Birdie" Irving's fake advertising pamphlets proclaim him to be.  As I said before, I never knew that such a creation as Harry Wise existed, until the lawyer brought me the ludicrous message referred to above.</p><P>This little person, Wise, is perhaps the son of some political office-holder who is hanging on to the fringe or ragged edge of Parvenucracy, like his friends, the Hume-Cooke-Cosgrave-Fruit-Picker-Mearns-"Birdie"-Irving-Co., and he probably thinks that if he can get written up as an upstart, it will give him a little social standing among all the other silly snobs of his own ilk.</p><P>From a fake advertising pamphlet issued by a local printer on Bush Street, and "edited" by the little ex-boot-black "Birdie" of the fake horse show, I clip the following extracts from an article dictated by Wise himself, and paid for after the fashion of other reading notice advertisements in the same pamphlet, called <HI REND="italics">Midwinter Fair Jewvenir</HI>
108.sgm:.  I should like to quote the whole ludicrous notice, but I cannot afford to devote so much space to such a numskull.  I quote the following extracts:</p><P>"Among the young men who are making a conspicuous mark in the social world of this city, there are none who stand forth more prominent than Mr. Harry Wise.</p><P>"Gifted with natural abilities of an uncommon order, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:he has raised himself to a position not usually attained in one so young.  It is the care he has taken in the cultivation of his abilities that has placed him in the foremost ranks of those who are to control this metropolis of the Pacific Coast."</p><P>In a ludicrous attempt to make it appear that he is a self-made man, he goes on to say:</p><P>"Having completed his education, his father decided <illus entity="a108-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>More "otherwise" than Wise, but bound to be "in it."</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:upon sending him aboard, that his general ideas might expand.  He was liberally supplied with funds, which gave him an <HI REND="italics">entree</HI>
108.sgm: into the best society of Europe.  As a consequence he returned, after a year's travel, with broadly expanded views, and a more correct judgment of the aims of life than usually falls to the young man of the present day.  Business comes natural to him, and there are few old veterans who display more ability than the subject of this sketch."</p><P>The above ridiculous rubbish is accompanied and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:embellished with a picture of this little fellow, which goes to show that his "ideas" of his own insignificance must have expanded while "studying business in European society," (?) even if his common-sense views, if he ever had any, did desert him.  I never heard before that European society approved of any business except empty-title matrimonial boards of brokers, and they invariably require their <HI REND="italics">prote&acute;ge&acute;s</HI>
108.sgm: to produce something that resembles a pedigree.</p><P>Poor little fellow!  He has succeeded in getting his name mentioned at last, and I hope that he and Hume and the other noodle heads will have sense enough in the future to keep their silly little threats to themselves.</p><P>If they bother me any more I will send Mr. Delmas to them to ask them if they know an organization called the "fruit-pickers."</p><P>Oh, no! I will not send Mr. Delmas.  On second thought I find that it would not be advisable to send him, because Mr. Hume might ask him about his own escapades at the second establishment.</p><P>May Goodwin of the Sea King Co., and the "cozy cottage," and divers other parvenu proprieties and financial enterprises, such as the Coleman case, the Cox case, etc., etc.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>DURING the latter part of June and the early part of July, 1888, my new friends in Oakland introduced me to several other nice families, including the Gunns, who lived next door, and the Platts, who are relatives of the Bells, and Mr. Lacey Goodrich.  Then Miss Brunner invited me to call on her at her residence out on Washington Street, near Steiner, and meet her father and sisters and brother and brother-in-law.  Through the courtesy of the Brunners I became acquainted with several of their friends, including the Withams and the Goellers and several others.</p><P>Thus, in the course of a few weeks, I formed lasting acquaintances with several estimable families, the heads of which are numbered among the old reliable pioneers of '49 and '50.</p><P>Those are representatives of that class of Californians to whom the State is indebted for her existence as a civilized institution, and I consider it an honor to be able to mention the fact that I am at liberty to refer to my first San Francisco acquaintances as friends.</p><P>If all Californians possessed the refinement of this first coterie whom I met over seven years ago the public would not hear so much about snobs, upstarts, shoddyites, and other parvenus and insolent pretenders.</p><P>A few days after going to Oakland to board I came over to San Francisco and called upon Captain Searle at the Palace Hotel.  It was then that I learned, for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:first time, of the instructions that the captain had left for me while I was on the <HI REND="italics">Shenandoah</HI>
108.sgm:, in February, to the effect that I should report for duty as soon as he returned from the midwinter voyage.</p><P>When Captain Searle advised me that my position on the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: would be open as soon as that ship returned from China, and that he wanted me to come back, I decided to quit the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: and return to the former vessel.</p><P>I wanted to leave the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: on good terms with Captain Hayward and his officers, so I explained that my chances for promotion would be better in the Pacific Mail Steamship Company than in Spreckels' employ, on account of the former company's running so many more steamers than Spreckels.  The Pacific Mail had over twenty steamers in commission at that time plying between San Francisco, Japan, China, Mexico, Central America, Panama, and New York; whereas Spreckels had only four ships all told: the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Alameda</HI>
108.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Australia</HI>
108.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Zealandia</HI>
108.sgm:; and there was some talk of laying one or two of those off, on account of dull trade.</p><P>First Officer Hart gave me a good recommendation to take back to the Pacific Mail, and Captain Hayward indorsed it, after which I left the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa</HI>
108.sgm: and returned to Oakland to await the return of the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:.  This wait was the first vacation that I had taken, except for a few days at a time, in nearly four years.</p><P>If ever I enjoyed a good rest in my life, it was the month spent at Mrs. Bell's, in East Oakland.  Entirely free from duty, with no orders to obey; no long tricks at the wheel; no disagreeable midwatches, dog watches, morning watches, or any other kind of watches to stand during cold, rainy, or stormy weather; no turning out at midnight one night and at 4 A. M. the next, to "relieve <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:the wheel and lookout," I had absolutely nothing to bother my head about, and for once in my life I just took things easily.</p><P>Talk about a pleasant time!  If any man,--I don't care who,--millionaire or anyone else, ever spent a more agreeable month away from home than I did during this "lay off," as we sailors call a vacation, I should like to ask him where he found it.  Every Oaklander knows what June and July weather is in that city, but since there are so many persons who have never had the opportunity of enjoying it that the author has had, and, as it is more than likely that a good many of those who live in the South and East and other parts of the world will read this <HI REND="italics">Diary</HI>
108.sgm:, I trust that my friends "across the bay," including Mr. and Mrs. Kaeser and family, Mr. and Mrs. Blethen and household, Mr. and Mrs. Osler and happy family, Mr. and Mrs. Platt and family, Harry Kirk, the Huff boys, Fred Phoebe, and many others whom I esteem very highly, will permit me to briefly tell my other friends who live elsewhere, what a nice place Oakland is to live in.</p><P>Oakland is one of the most beautifully laid out cities in the world.  Almost every street affords as nice a drive as Golden Gate Avenue.  Nearly all the residence streets and avenues have a row of eucalyptus or other nice shade trees on each side.  Some of the prettiest residences in the State are to be found there, and they are occupied by people who are as nice as they are sociable and hospitable.</p><P>One reason why the ladies of Oakland always look so much healthier and brighter than do a great many San Francisco ladies, is, I think, because they keep better hours.  And then they have a climate over there as far superior to that of San Francisco as the climate of the latter city is to that of New York, Chicago, Boston, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Philadelphia, Vicksburg, New Orleans, and many other Eastern and Southern cities which I visited.  And I did not copy a word of the above from Mr. Lamance's Oakland real estate advertisements, either.</p><P>On the 5th of July, 1888, the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: arrived in port with Captain T. P. Deering in command.  Four days later I went aboard and reported to First Officer James M. Dow, and was reappointed to my former position of quartermaster.</p><P>On Thursday, the 19th, I went out to the Union Iron Works to see the launching of the U.S.  <HI REND="italics">Charleston</HI>
108.sgm:, the first man-of-war ever built at San Francisco.</p><P>On Saturday, the 21st, Captain Searle relieved Captain Deering in command of the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:, the latter gentleman taking his original position as first officer.  At three o'clock the same afternoon we sailed for Hong Kong <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: Yokohama.</p><P>During the following year we ran steadily between the above mentioned ports, calling at Honolulu occasionally on return voyages.</p><P>In all, we made five "round trips" during which time we covered a total distance of about sixty-five thousand nautical or sea miles, equal to more than three times the circumference of the earth.  At the end of each voyage we had a "lay over" of a week to ten days in San Francisco, and about the same time at Hong Kong, and a short stay of one to three days at Yokohama, going and returning.</p><P>While the ship was at the home port, I generally managed to get time enough to myself to keep up the acquaintances already formed in San Francisco and Oakland, and to meet a good many more nice people, including the Palace Hotel set, that was at that time.  Those latter included the Halseys, the Dutards, the Fords, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Rices, the Johnsons, the Eddys, the Sachs, the Bartons, the Lewises, the Estees, the Latons, the Hallecks and many others of that good old reliable class, and their friends living all over the city.  With hardly a single exception the names of the ladies of the above-mentioned families are identified with the management of the leading charitable institutions in the city, such as the "Old People's Home," the "Women's Hospital," the "Children's Hospital," and various asylums for foundlings and orphans.</p><P>I will take all the responsibility for making the assertion that I can point out twenty ladies of the coterie referred to, who do more good in various ways for the benefit and improvement of society in general, than the entire membership of the so-called exclusive set all put together.  But you never see the names of those estimable ladies attached to glowing society column reports of elaborate dinners and gorgeous receptions given in honor of some miserable alien fortune hunter of a prince, whose entire past has been devoted to the debasement of every naturally good and lofty instinct that tends to the elevation of society, and whose chief purpose in future life is to marry some feeble-minded American heiress, and squander her fortune among his disreputable associates in London and Paris.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
108.sgm: American lady is rarely identified with vultures of the last-mentioned strata, unless it is through some mistake.  But the members of Parvenucracy wine, dine, feast, and court the vultures and toady to them in a way that would shame a Palace Grill Room waiter looking for a tip from Dan McCarthy or his bosom friend, "Lord" Talbot Clifton.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
108.sgm: lady derives her compensation for her good deed from the mere knowledge in her own pure heart <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:that she has contributed a mite toward the comfort of the deserving poor.</p><P>But when the Parvenuess gives a dollar to a charitable institution she squanders five more to advertise what she has done, and if she goes to a charity entertainment and spends a few dollars, she invariably looks over the morning paper the next day to see if her name is in the list.  And if it is not there, God help the unfortunate reporter who forgot to put it in.</p><P>I have seen Parvenuesses elbow their way from one end of a densely packed house to the other, stepping all over the toes of dozens of quiet citizens, just to tell the society reporter of a morning paper to put their names down.  And I do not mean the Quack-Nutt, Meldas, Addie Mizner, Volney Scawlding <HI REND="italics">clique</HI>
108.sgm:, either.</p><P>When we arrived in San Francisco on the 15th of July, 1889, the Pacific Mail Company decided to lay the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: up for repairs.  After discharging her cargo she was dismantled and towed over to the Union Iron Works, where she received a thorough overhauling, a brand new set of boilers, new decks, new rigging, and electric lights in place of the old oil lamps.  Her cabins and staterooms were renovated and refitted with the best modern passenger steamer inventions.  On leaving the dock yards after a four months' lay up, she was practically as good as a brand new ship, so Mr. Irving M. Scott, manager of the Iron Works, declared.</p><P>The bills for her repairing and refitting amounted to about $250,000.</p><P>On Friday, the 15th of November, she was brought back alongside of the Mail dock and put into commission to run between San Francisco and Panama, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: the principal ports on the west coast of Mexico and Central America.  On the same day, which, by the way, was my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:twenty-fourth birthday, I received the following orders from headquarters:</p><P>AGENCY PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY,</p><P>WILLIAMS, DIMOND &amp; CO., GENERAL AGENTS,</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, November 15, 1889.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Mr. W. H. Chambliss, San Franciso</HI>
108.sgm::</p><P>DEAR SIR: You are hereby appointed Third Officer of the S.S.  <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm:, and you will report for duty to Captain Searle at once.</p><P>Yours truly,</p><P>(Signed)<HSEP>WILLIAMS, DIMOND &amp; CO.,</p><P>General Agents.</p><P>During the four months that the ship was laid up for repairs I had remained on duty, standing night watches all the time, except about ten days, when I got a leave of absence to visit San Jose&acute;, Santa Cruz, Del Monte, and one or two other seaside resorts.</p><P>On Saturday, the 23d of November, we sailed on our first voyage to Panama.  The following is a list of our officers:</p><P>R. R. Searle, commander; J. M. Dow, first officer; L. B. Park, second officer; W. H. Chambliss, third officer; Amandus Ahman, Reginald Fay, Fred Brooks, and J. Stevenson, quartermasters; Mr. Hurlihy, chief engineer; Mr. Murphy, first assistant engineer; Mr. Parsons, second assistant engineer; Mr. Floyd, third assistant engineer; E. J. Richardson, purser; Dr. Frank S. Sutton, surgeon; Mr. Dearborne, freight clerk; Mr. Pfeiffer, assistant freight clerk; James Blonk, carpenter.</p><P>One would naturally suppose that a steamer fresh from the Union Iron Works would be able to go to Panama and back, a total distance of only about seven thousand miles, without breaking down.  But such was not the case with us.  Just as we were abreast of Pigeon Point, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:about forty miles down the coast, a defective valve burst, disabling the engine so that we had to stop from eight o'clock in the evening until one the next day, to repair the damage.</p><P>Fortunately the sea was calm.  Had there been a westerly breeze we would have drifted ashore with our quarter million dollars' worth of Union Iron Works "repairs" and all.</p><P>The forward cylinder was completely disabled so far as repairing it on board was concerned, so the engineers disconnected it, and we proceeded on our course with only one cylinder working, and arrived at Acapulco, Mexico, on Sunday, the 1st of December.</p><P>At Acapulco the engineers managed to repair the broken valve, and we proceeded on our course, after two days' delay.</p><P>Between Acapulco and Panama, we called at Champerico and San Jose&acute; de Guatamala; La Libertad, Acajutla, and La Union, San Salvador; and Punta Arenas, Costa Rica, arriving at Panama, on Friday, the 13th of December.</p><P>Of all the God-forsaken ports that ever I stopped at for more than a few days at a time, except Chemulpo, Corea, the port of Panama takes the lead.  On account of the shallowness of the water, the coral reefs and the heavy rise and fall of the tide in the harbor, the large Mail steamers have to load and unload at an island about seven miles away from the city.<ANCHOR ID="n22-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: At low tide the ships settle down in the mud.  Panama is such an unhealthy place that no one cares to go ashore there more than once a voyage, and even if one should like to go oftener, it takes nearly all night to go from the ship to the town <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:and back in a small boat; and then you are liable to get aground on the reefs, where you may have to wait for the next high tide, if the sharks don't eat you in the meantime.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-1">The "range" (rise and fall) of the tide in Panama Bay is probably thirty feet.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>We left Panama on the 23d of December, 1889, and arrived at San Francisco on the 17th of January, 1890, having called at the regular Central American and Mexican ports on the route.</p><P>Among the passengers on the homeward bound voyage was Mrs. John Martin, who subsequently was given so much notoriety in San Francisco, in 1894, for having the unpardonable audacity to ask a local court of justice (?) to decide whether or not her little baby boy was entitled to a few thousand dollars which had been lawfully left to the child by the last will of the late Henry Martin, a wealthy brother-in-law of the little child's mother.</p><P>Mrs. Martin, who is nothing if not a natural woman, <HI REND="italics">brings forth and raises her offspring</HI>
108.sgm:.  Therefore she should have known better than to expect justice for her child, when she knew very well that her cold-blooded millionaire sister-in-law, who is opposed to children on general principles, and ex-Mayor E. B. Pond and several other celebrities of savory reputations were so bitterly opposed to her having justice that they were willing to resort to the most detestable methods of "mud-throwing" ever heard of, in order to prejudice the judge, the jury, the press, and the public at large against her, and thereby rob her two-year-old son of his inherited pittance, which would have been barely enough to give the little boy the plain business education that Henry Martin evidently desired him to receive.  Justice!  Bah!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>THE Panama route has the reputation of being the hardest steamship route in the world.</p><P>Having served one year as third officer of the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: on that line, I am prepared to corroborate a great many tales about various things which render life almost unbearable to those who earn their bread by filling the different official and other positions on the Mail steamers.</p><P>From the time the ship leaves the wharf at San Francisco until her return, two months later, the everyday vexations, annoyances and troubles to which all hands, from the captain on down to the sailors' mess-boy inclusive, are subjected, defy description.  There are so many unheard of annoyances, which no one who has never made the trip as an employee of a steamer would ever think of.  Not the least by any means of those hardships are the peculiar effects produced on different individuals by the rapid and continuous changes of climate as the ship goes south.</p><P>I have seen persons who were never addicted to drink in their lives lose all appetite for solid food by the time the ship passed Cape St. Lucas, on her south bound trip, and develop, in the place of natural appetites, an unquenchable thirst for everything in the way of liquids in the ship.  It seems to be a form of insanity produced by the combined influence of the change of temperature and the peculiar motion of the steamer running on a smooth, calm sea, with a lazy, sleepy swell.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>The steamers keep only a short distance off shore all the way down, and sometimes they roll heavily when there is no wind at all.  This is not the motion that produces the dreaded malady which never kills, and which is called "seasickness."  But it produced an effect on ladies who travel without their husbands that is said to be far more disastrous to family peace and happiness than the other form of seasickness.  That is, if the husband ever happens to hear about it from some meddlesome individual who has no better sense than to tell.</p><P>One disagreeable thing about an officer's position on a Panama steamer is that he seldom gets a chance to go ashore at any of the ports down the coast.  And then again, it happens sometimes that the steamer is late in arriving at San Francisco, and has to be discharged and reloaded on short notice.  When this happens, all hands except the captain, chief engineer, surgeon, and purser are kept busy from the time of arrival up to sailing hour.</p><P>For instance, upon our arrival, May 11, 1890, we found that the Mail Company had made a new schedule for us, by which we had to discharge our cargo and load up and get away on the 14th, in consequence of which we had to stand regular sea-watches during the three days at the home port.</p><P>When we came into port here on the 29th of the following October, Mr. W. R. A. Johnson, general agent of the company, decided to promote our captain to the command of the <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
108.sgm:, of the China line.  The <HI REND="italics">Peking</HI>
108.sgm: is the largest steamer in the Pacific Mail service.  Dr. Walker, the surgeon, Mr. Burton, the purser, and several others, myself included, were detached from the <HI REND="italics">New York</HI>
108.sgm: and ordered to the <HI REND="italics">Peking</HI>
108.sgm:, along with Captain Searle.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Here is a sample of the orders usually issued in such cases:</p><P>OFFICE PACIFIC MAIL S.S. CO.,</p><P>W. R. A. JOHNSON, GENERAL AGENT,</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, October 29, 1890.</p><P><HI REND="italics">To Mr. W. H. Chambliss, Third Officer S.S. City of New York, in Port</HI>
108.sgm::</p><P>DEAR SIR: You are hereby transferred from your position as Third Officer of the S.S.  <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: to a similar position upon the S.S.  <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
108.sgm:, and will report for duty to Captain Searle at once.</p><P>Yours truly,</p><P>W. R. A. JOHNSON,</p><P>Acting General Agent.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
108.sgm: was scheduled to sail for China on the 1st of November, and she got away promptly on time.  From this it will be seen that we who were transferred from the <HI REND="italics">New York</HI>
108.sgm: had three short days in port.</p><P>I made five voyages to China and return, on the <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
108.sgm:, between the above date and the 10th of October, 1891.  Those persons who imagine that the officers of ocean steamers have nothing to do except stand their usual deck watches at sea, have a very wrong idea.  The first, second, and third officers, sometimes called mates, and the quartermasters, compose the navigation department.</p><P>A brief idea of what the deck officers or mates have to do in addition to standing their bridge watches of six hours on and six hours off, from one side of the ocean to the other, may be obtained from the following:</p><P>At about eight o'clock every morning, each officer is required to take his own observations of the sun with his sextant.  These morning observations, or "time sights," as nearly all navigators term this very important part of nautical astronomy, are taken for the purpose of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:ascertaining the longitude, and correcting the time.  A ship running on an easterly or westerly course is constantly changing her local time at the rate of four minutes to every degree of longitude.  In order to regulate the local time the pilot house clock, which is the town clock of the ship, is corrected daily, usually at about ten in the forenoon, by setting the clock back at the rate of one hour for every fifteen degrees of longitude made west, and by setting it ahead at the same rate when you are sailing eastward.</p><P>At noon every day each officer must take his observations of the sun to ascertain the latitude.  This noon observation is called the meridian altitude, and it is the shortest as well as the best method for finding the true latitude.</p><P>Having ascertained the position of the ship by nautical astronomical observations; having worked out the longitude by chronometer sights based on Greenwich mean time, and the latitude by meridian observations and the sun's declination; having, by means of his figures thus obtained, computed the exact distance in knots or nautical miles; having found the true course, made good by corrected standard compass, since the previous noon, and having found the error of the compass by observations of the sun taken with an azimuth circle (all of which work requires the attention of a clear head for at least two hours altogether on each day), each of the three navigating officers must make up his <HI REND="italics">daily report</HI>
108.sgm:, and hand the same in to the captain before 1 o'clock P.M.</p><P>The captain, who is, of course, the highest officer on board, and "master of all his surveys," having worked his way up through all the subordinate positions in the navigation department to his present high position, which is the very top rung of the merchant marine ladder, or, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COMMANDER AND OFFICERS OF THE "CITY OF PEKING," IN 1891.<LB>Captain Searle.  Mr. Mortensen.  Doctor Bond.  Mr. McClure.  Mr. Chambliss.  Mr. Kramer.  Mr. Spencer.  Mr. Sawdon.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:use a pure nautical phrase <HI REND="italics">the top ratline in the royal rigging</HI>
108.sgm:, is so familiar with the fine work of navigation that he can tell at a glance if there is a single error in one of his officers' work.</p><P>Having compared the reports of all three of his "deck officers" with private figures obtained from observations which he has incidentally taken as a safe precaution, the captain proceeds to make up with his own hands the <HI REND="italics">Daily Bulletin</HI>
108.sgm:.  Copies of the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
108.sgm: are posted in the main saloon, in the officers' messroom, and in the smoking room, so that all hands may know just exactly where they are "at."</p><P>Here is a sample of a <HI REND="italics">Daily Bulletin</HI>
108.sgm:, which will be recognized by all tourists and "globe trotters" who may chance to see it:</p><P>STEAMSHIP "CITY OF PEKING."</p><P>Sunday, August 16, 1891.</p><P>Latitude, 29&deg; 02' 15'' north.</p><P>Longitude, 144&deg; 13' 30'' west.</p><P>Course south, 58&deg; 46' west.</p><P>Distance, 256.4 knots.</p><P>(Signed)<HSEP>ROBERT R. SEARLE,</p><P>Commander.</p><P>The above <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
108.sgm: is taken from an entry in my private log book, made on the date given while <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
108.sgm: from San Francisco to Hong Kong <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: Honolulu and Yokohama.</p><P>Here is another, posted <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
108.sgm: to Sydney, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: Honolulu, Apia, and Auckland.</p><P>ROYAL MAIL STEAMER "MARIPOSA,"</p><P>Wednesday, April 11, 1888.</p><P>Latitude, 31&deg; 44' 51'' north.</p><P>Longitude, 139&deg; 25' 00'' west.</p><P>Course, south 48&deg; west.</p><P>Distance, 316.9 miles.</p><P>(Signed)<HSEP>H. M. HAYWARD.</p><P>Commander.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>And yet such good-for-nothing nincompoops and landlubbers as the Cooke-Hume-Cosgrave-Blueway-"Birdie"-Irving-Fruit-Picker combination of fake society reporters, free-lunch counter bums, and fake advertising agents, who have not an astronomical or nautical idea above a "cold deck," or a five-cent "schooner of steam beer" with a hot sausage "on the side," have the impudence to refer to the captains, mates, and engineers of these great ocean liners as "old salts" and "old Jack Tars."</p><P>When the quiet citizen sits back in his armchair at home and reads the glowing "society column" reports of vultures like those mentioned above, and in the same paper sees contemptuous and cowardly references to such estimable gentlemen as Captain Seabury, Captain Ward, Captain Morse, Captain Mortensen, Captain Clark, Captain Friele, Captain Searle, Captain Cavarly, Captain Pearne, Captain Smith, Captain Randle, Captain Haskins, Captain Dow, and other commanders and their officers who navigate ships, little does he know the truth about what he reads.</p><P>Most of those hardy old officers are as far superior, morally and intellectually, to the vultures who criticize them, as is a bank accountant to an African freed savage, in mathematics.</p><P>The shallowness, the petty meanness, the corruption, the arrogance, the false pretentions, the mock modesty, and the general all-round insincerity and utter uselessness of the everyday life of the Parvenucracy have an effect upon a sea captain similar to that which the pitching of a ship in a gale produces on a landsman.</p><P>It is against those unprincipled wretches who pose as "gentlemen of leisure," and "leaders" of the upstart element,--nearly the entire crew of which is a curse to society and civilization,--that I have taken occasion to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:warn my many esteemed friends in the navy as well as in the merchant marine.  (See Chapter XI.)  I know what I am talking about, and I want my friends to accept this in the spirit of a man who is writing for the good of society.</p><P>I have seen those vultures around the hotels, poker clubs, race tracks, faro dens, "family boarding houses," "bachelor quarters,"<ANCHOR ID="n23-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: and many other places where I have gone--for the purpose of studying their ways--that I might know whereof and of whom I write, for the benefit of those who would like to know the truth.  The society barbarians against whom I write are to good society and virtue as were the pirates of old to the commerce of the world.  Freebooters, gamblers, card sharps, and libertines.  They pose in claw-hammer coats, purchased with ill-gotten gains, and wrech the homes, the happiness, and lives of honorable men, by taking advantage of female weakness.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-1">Bachelor quarters,--so called,--or "bachelor apartments," are rooming houses where married "men" keep their mistresses.  Some of the wealthy he members of the Parvenucracy, who keep "bachelor quarters" under assumed names, have female agents regularly employed to kidnap schoolgirls and drag them into their harems to be kept for a time and then thrown on the town as "street walkers."</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>Not satisfied with having destroyed the peace and happiness of innocent men, women, and children, these marauders of society boast of their doings, in order that the world may know all about it, except the names of the pirates who did it.</p><P>The very minute an honest citizen exposes one of those ruffians, the latter, who possess no honor at all, sets up a piteous wail about it being "dishonorable" for the honest citizen to expose him.</p><P>A man who boasts of his "gallantry" with other men's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:wives, or of his perfidy with trusting women, is to be dreaded more than the burglar who enters your bedroom and steals your purse while you sleep.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Who steals my purse, steals trash; 'tis something, nothing;<LB>'Twas mine; 'tis his, and has been slave to thousands;<LB>But he that filches from me my good name,<LB>Robs me of that which not enriches him,<LB>And makes me poor indeed.</HI>
108.sgm:</p><P>-- <HI REND="italics">Shakespeare</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>When those infamous knaves run short of true tales to tell to one another and to all who will listen to them, they seldom hesitate about inventing bare-faced lies about innocent people.  Nine times out of ten their tales of their "gallantries" are false.  But such stories, having once been uttered against a female, can never be recalled.  And, whether false or true, if names are used, they have about the same effect on the man of the world who hears them.</p><P>Some of my <HI REND="italics">acquaintances</HI>
108.sgm: will undoubtedly object to this; but my <HI REND="italics">friends</HI>
108.sgm: (and I have a good many) will not.  We all know that human nature is weak.  When one hears a man boasting of his "gallantries" and carryings-on with the respectable portion of the weaker sex, it is perfectly safe to shun him, and treat him with the same degree of contempt that is being served out to Oscar Wilde.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>DURING the last voyage that I made on the <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
108.sgm: I decided to apply for a leave of absence, upon our return to San Francisco.</p><P>I had two very good reasons for desiring to "lay off" a couple of months.</p><P>First: I wanted to go before the local Board of U. S. Inspectors of Steam Vessels and pass an examination for a first officer's certificate, or "mate's papers," to use the proper nautical term.</p><P>Second: I wanted to visit my mother, my sister and brothers and old friends, whom I had not seen in eight years.</p><P>Having been on duty in the service of the Pacific Mail for more than three years without a furlough, I felt that a breathing spell on shore would do me good.</p><P>Since this was my last voyage in any capacity except that of a passenger on several subsequent voyages on different ships, and as it resulted in my changing the course of my life entirely, I trust that the reader will pardon me for giving some of the details.  I shall not attempt to lead the reader into the belief that a certain pleasant acquaintance formed on board the steamer during the outward bound voyage had anything to do with my sudden resolution to stop ashore for a while, because if I did I would be treading on the premises of writers of fiction.</p><P>We set sail from San Francisco on Tuesday, the 11th of August, 1891, at 4 P.M.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Shortly before we cast off our lines from the Mail dock, Mr. Arthur Verdante, a well-known and popular official of the company's service, came aboard, accompanied by Mrs. Verdante, his wife, and Miss Lillian, their only daughter.  Mr. Verdante introduced me to the ladies and informed me that they were going out to Japan on a pleasure trip and he hoped that the officers of the ship would make their journey as pleasant as possible.</p><P>Mr. Verdante said something about someone else who was to accompany Mrs. and Miss Verdante on the voyage, but before the conversation concluded the quartermaster passed the word around for the officers to repair to their respective stations for leaving port, and I did not have time to wait for an introduction just then.  I had to take my station on the bridge with the captain and the pilot.  After the usual excitement attending the departure of an ocean steamer, we backed away from the wharf, steamed on down the bay and out to sea.</p><P>When Mr. William Wright, the second officer, relieved me from duty at eight o'clock,--at which time we were passing Farallone Island Light,--I walked aft on the quarter-deck to see how the ladies were getting along.  Mrs. Verdante had retired to her cabin to remain until she got accustomed to the motion of the ship, but Miss Lillian was on deck, and she introduced me to her friend, Miss Breuvage, and after explaining that she was her dearest friend, Miss Verdante ran down below to look after her seasick mother, like the sweet, dutiful daughter that she was, leaving her friend on deck with me.</p><P>Miss Breuvage proceeded to tell me that she and Miss Verdante had just graduated from Mills' Seminary, Oakland.  She said little else about herself, except that her parents, who did not wish to take the sea voyage themselves, had, after a good deal of persuasion from Miss <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Verdante, consented to allow her to accompany the latter, in charge of her mother.  Nothing more was said about her parents or family, and I never asked her any questions.  I did not have to be told anything about Miss Jennie's people, for I could see for myself that she possessed that genuine, unmistakable refinement which is a natural inheritance from a good mother; and at the same time she displayed unquestionable signs of practical ideas and solid common sense, which must have been inherited from a thoroughly practical father.  All of those natural qualities had been well preserved and cultivated, and I should like to say that a seminary which turns out such splendid types of polished womanhood as Miss Breuvage and Miss Verdante, must be conducted on lines which should commend the institution to any mother or father who might desire to give a daughter a course of training that would fit her for <HI REND="italics">woman's proper sphere in life</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>I have not the honor of a personal acquaintance with the professors of Mills' Seminary; but if they can stand a compliment in plain, common-sense English, I should take pleasure in saying that they know their business or profession as teachers--that is, if Misses Breuvage and Verdante and a few dozen more of their graduates whom I have met are fair samples of what they do for their pupils over there.</p><P>Although favored with beautiful weather and a smooth sea during the outward voyage, we had to contend with the disadvantages of a partially crippled engine, which could not be induced to go any faster than 260 miles a day, when we should have been making over 300.  However, since it was through no fault of mine, and since the Pacific Mail did not sustain any loss, I cannot say that I regretted the loss of time of two days that we experienced between San Francisco and Honolulu.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>We came to anchor outside the Reefs at Honolulu, at 6.17 P.M., on Monday, the 19th.</p><P>The next morning I went ashore with the ladies to escort them round Honolulu.  They had several schoolmates and friends residing there, and they also had letters of introduction to some of my Honolulu acquaintances, among whom were the Damons.  Honolulu is a nice, sociable city, and its leading citizens are very hospitable, and not over particular about limiting their friends to society calling hours, especially passing friends who have only a few hours in port, while the steamer remains.</p><P>The Damons, who are among the wealthiest Americans on the islands, thought nothing of our calling on them at 7:30 A.M.</p><P>The ladies were on a pleasure trip, and as curios are always in order, I thought it would be a pity to pass Honolulu without treating them to the sight of a missionary financier.  So I took them up to see Mr. S. M. Damon.</p><P>This "holy" missionary is a son of an old Down East missionary who was sent to Honolulu during the reign of King Kamehemeha I., so I have ben informed.</p><P>The elder Damon was given some land by the king in exchange for a little missionarianity.  His son Sammy, the subject of this sketch, early developed financial traits of an uncommon order.  He induced his father to advance him some funds (I didn't say church funds) to invest in a private scheme which he had in his head.  With these funds he sent to the United States and purchased large quantities of ten cent silver pieces, which he exchanged for the large coins already in circulation in Honolulu, at the rate of eight dimes for a dollar.  Subsequently he became interested in the millinery <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:business, and induced the old man to tell the native women, from the pulpit, that their entrance into heaven would be greatly facilitated if they would buy new hats, such as were worn by the holy missionary ladies.  The advice had the desired effect, and the <HI REND="italics">Kanaka</HI>
108.sgm: women rushed to the millinery store, where the bright young financier sold them all the hats that they needed, receiving their dimes in payment for the same at the par value of ten to the dollar, explaining that this was necessary in order to get the small change into circulation again.  And the "heathen" women went their way, rejoicing and giving thanks to the god of hypocrisy for having created missionaries like unto the Damons.</p><P>Mr. Damon showed us all the attention that a person could reasonably expect from a financier.  He even went to the livery stable and instructed the proprietor to give us the best team in Honolulu--on percentage.  We drove all over the city, and afterward tried to drive up to the summit of Punch-bowl Hill, and, taking the wrong road, we drove and drove, up and up Nuuanna Valley until we came to a standstill in the middle of a big sugar farm, where the road was so narrow that we had to get out of the rockaway, unhitch the horses and turn the vehicle around by hand.  After this experience we returned to town and drove out King's Street to <HI REND="italics">Waikiki</HI>
108.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Sans Souci</HI>
108.sgm:, and then over to Dr. Trousseau's ostrich farm.  By this time it was getting late in the afternoon, so we took the team back to the stable, and returned to the steamer on Jerry Simonson's steam lighter, the same little craft, with her smokestack in one quarter, that we went ashore on.</p><P>About 4 P.M. we got under way and proceeded on our course for Yokohama, arriving there on Thursday, the 3d of September.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>The ladies disembarked at Yokohama, and we proceeded on to Hong Kong and arrived at that port on the 10th.</p><P>When we called at Yokohama on our return voyage, on the 22d of September, I found my lady friends safely domiciled at a private boarding house at No. 2 Bluff.  They had visted Tokio, Kamakura, and the great statue of Diabutsu, and had returned to Yokohama just the day before our arrival.  They expressed themselves highly pleased with Japan.  They were there to see the country and, acting on the advice of their friends, they were keeping clear of the local society of Europeans mentioned in Chapter IX.</p><P>They came aboard the steamer the following morning, and remained nearly all day, and took lunch, or <HI REND="italics">tiffen</HI>
108.sgm:, as it is called out there, on board.  In the evening I went ashore and called upon them to say "good-by."  We were scheduled to sail the next morning at daylight, and they were coming back on the <HI REND="italics">City of Rio de Janeiro</HI>
108.sgm:, which vessel was due to sail from there about the 17th of the following month.</p><P>At daybreak in the morning of September 25 we were under way, and in the course of four or five hours we rounded Cape King and took the usual Great Circle course for San Francisco, arriving here on the 10th of October.</p><P>On the following night after our arrival, San Francisco was visited by the heaviest earthquake that had been felt in the city in twenty years.  I was sitting in my room, No. 814 Palace Hotel, writing a letter when the shock came.  At first there was a rumbling sound, similar to the passing of a heavy freight train; then the great hotel began to tremble from cellar to garret; windows rattled, beams creaked and groaned, doors opened and banged to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:again, tables and chairs shifted their positions, and in a minute this enormous caravansary was in an uproar.  As I left my room and started for the elevator I saw men, women, and children rushing wildly out of their rooms, trying to escape from what appeared to be a doomed house.  A big fat lady occupying the adjoining room, No. 815, rushed out of her door and seized me like a drowning person, and would not let me go until the building quit shaking.  I called her attention to the fact that she had forgotten to complete her toilet before leaving her room, then she quit screaming, turned me loose, and vanished into her own room, and I saw nothing more of her.  It was about half past ten when the shock came.  The hotel was full of Eastern tourists, most of whom had retired for the night.  There were curious stories in circulation the next morning about Eastern rural gentlemen who grabbed their gripsacks, rushed out on Market Street and refused to enter the house again until breakfast.  Such tales as those are highly amusing after the danger is passed, but we seldom see anything funny in each other's terror-stricken escapades at the time that they happen, because we are all of us susceptible to a strange antipathy for the quaking of Mother Earth.</p><P>Monday, October 19, 1891, I made application to Mr. Alexander Center, General Agent of the Pacific Mail, for a two months' leave of absence.</p><P>Tuesday, the 20th, application granted.  Mr. Paulsen, formerly second officer of the steamer <HI REND="italics">Acapulco</HI>
108.sgm:, relieved me on the <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>Wednesday, 21st, the <HI REND="italics">Peking</HI>
108.sgm: sailed on her regular schedule time.</p><P>On Thursday and Friday, the 22d and 23d, I passed my examination before the United States Board of Inspectors and received my certificate for mate of ocean <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:steamers, and license to sail as first officer on Pacific Ocean lines.</p><P>Wednesday, October 28, 1891.  About half past four o'clock this morning Mr. Cheo. M. Tarceau, who occupies the suite of rooms, Nos. 816 and 817, right next door to mine, in the Palace Hotel, returned from the "tug-of-war" in an unsettled condition, and, after banging and kicking on doors until he woke up all the occupants in the adjoining rooms, he got into his wife's room, and proceeded to explain to his spouse something which had evidently displeased him before he went out.  Judging from the noise that followed, his wife's room must have presented a beautiful scene.  It was none of my affairs, so I did not presume to interfere with them.  I opened my door and looked out just in time to catch a glimpse of a fleeing female figure in white as it escaped from the room of the courteous "tintographer," and disappeared down the hallway.  It was Mrs. Tarceau, formerly Mrs. Phrisk of Fresno.  She had only been married to the "fort-hog-rapher" a very short while.</p><P>Very soon the night watchman of the hotel appeared on the scene, accompanied by several of the colored employees, and they managed to secure the enraged Frenchman; but not until he had avenged himself by smashing everything of a perishable nature in his rooms, including all of his wife's dainty <HI REND="italics">bric-a-brac</HI>
108.sgm:, looking-glasses, whatnot, etc., and upsetting a chiffoniere.  I understand that the watchman had to resort to the use of some stout twine or a trunk lashing, and bind the unhappy colonel hand and foot, in order to quiet him down.  Everybody in the house knew all about it by breakfast time, and I was kept busy all the forenoon answering questions in an evasive manner.  It was talked around that I occupied the next room to the scene of the disturbance, and, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:self-defense, I was obliged to answer all inquiries with the statement that I thought it was another earthquake.</p><P>When I went out to Mrs. Kixler's charity musicale this evening I was plied with questions enough by the guests there assembled to fill a chapter.  Dr. William J. Younger, the swell society dentist, who charges twenty dollars an hour for extracting, manufacturing, and filling society teeth, was the first gentleman to start the report that "the young man who lived in the adjoining room to the Tarceaus was in the house."</p><P>After that I did nothing but listen to questions and repeat my sterotyped answer to all.</p><P>I have nothing against Mr. Tarceau, and I did not care to tell what I had just entered in my diary.  He occupies a position as colonel on Governor Harkham's staff, and all the other colonels who were assembled at the Kixler charity affair, including Dr. Younger and the "fruit-pickers," were talking about asking him to resign.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, October 30, 1891.  Left San Francisco at 7 P. M. on the east-bound overland, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: Ogden, for a trip through the North, East, and South.</p><P>Saturday, 31st.  The section opposite to mine in the Pullman car was occupied last night by a lady and two small children, one of which would neither go to sleep nor let anybody else in the car sleep.  It insisted on keeping up a continuous bawling all night, until we reached Reno, where the noisy brat and the rest of its family got off.</p><P>Sunday, November 1.  Arrived at Ogden, Utah, at 8.30 A. M. Changed cars for Salt Lake City, and arrived at the great Mormon metropolis at 10.30.  Attended services in the famous Mormon Tabernacle, and visited Camp Douglas this afternoon.  Am stopping at the Knutsford Hotel.  Salt Lake City is an enterprising place.  While I am opposed to the Mormon so-called religion, which allows men to have as many wives as they can get, I am obliged to admit that this barbarous social custom seems to have had but little effect on the advancement of other branches of what is called modern civilization.  For instance, they have their politicians, political bosses, hoodlums, "toughs," and street-corner orators.  They have their "tenderloin" district (all over the city).  The saloons and disorderly houses that have no faro den attachments advertised in the official guide lose their social prestige.</p><P>But are there not plenty of men in other cities who are not satisfied with one wife?  (I don't mean Meldas, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Quack-Nut, Toad, Fair, Flood, Huntington, Crocker, or Vanderbilt.)  A beautifully laid out city, nice clean streets, and good hotel accommodations may be mentioned among Salt Lake City's attractions.  The city has as good a system of street railways as I have ever seen, outside of San Francisco.  It has various places of amusement, beside the regular disorderly resorts, including Garfield Beach, the "fashionable" summer resort and watering-place on the Great Salt Lake.</p><P>Monday, November 2.  On board Rio Grande Western Mail and Express.  Sorry I could not remain longer in Salt Lake, but I must be getting on East.  Left Salt Lake at 10 o'clock this morning.</p><P>Tuesday, 3d.  Passed through the famous Royal Gorge this morning.  The scenery through the Rocky Mountains, for barren grandeur, positively defies a pen description that would do it justice.  It must be seen to be appreciated.  Many years ago, when the railroad was being built through here, a great battle was fought between the forces of the Denver and Rio Grande and the Sante Fe Railroad Companies for the possession of the Royal Gorge.  Each company claimed the right of way.  The discussion ended in a pitched battle between several thousand railroad laborers on each side, fully equipped for fighting the Indians.  This engagement resulted in the loss of hundreds of lives, and a decisive victory for the Denver and Rio Grande.  The army of the Santa Fe was outgeneraled, routed, and completely overthrown, after which the victorious Denver and Rio Grandes completed their road, which forms a part of the Burlington system which Tom McKay of Jefferson County, Miss., represents at San Francisco.<ANCHOR ID="n25-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-1">Mr. Mckay is at Yokohama at the present time (June, 1895), representing the Pacific Mail passenger department.</NOTE>
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108.sgm:<P>Arrived at Denver at 6.30 P.M., and left two hours later.</p><P>Wednesday, 4th.  There is a little fifteen-year-old girl in the same Pullman car.  She got on the train at Denver last night.  She appears to be very much depressed over something.  She refuses to eat anything; has not taken a mouthful of anything since she left Denver.  Says the motion of the train makes her sick.  She seemed very lonely and low-spirited when I spoke to her this forenoon, and she appeared to be afraid of everyone.</p><P>I gave her a copy of the <HI REND="italics">Wasp</HI>
108.sgm: to read, and Mr. Tom Flynn's funny jokes and San Francisco society cartoons very soon put her in a talkative humor, and she told me her little story.  Her name is Josie Gerahty, and she came from Leadville, Col.  Her father and mother were engaged in mining.  She has an aunt living in New York, who had sent out to Leadville for here to come on to New York to live with her and go to school.  Her aunt had sent her a first-class ticket, and she had started from home with funds enough to defray all of her incidental expenses, including meals and Pullman fare.  She had arrived in Denver in the morning, and, while waiting for the 8.30 P.M. train, she walked uptown, where some thieving villain picked her pocket of every cent that she had.  Fortunately the thief did not get her ticket, so she thought she was all right after all.  She seemed to have overlooked the fact that it took several days to go to New York, for she would not allow anyone to pay for her meals.</p><P>When we stopped at Omaha, Neb., this afternoon, Miss Cora Sears of Chicago, a relative of Lieutenant Sears of the navy, got on the train, and I called her attention to the penniless, but high-spirited, little traveler.  Miss Sears tried to induce her to dine with us, but it was no use.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Thursday, November 5.  Arrived in Chicago at 9.30 A.M.  Shortly before the Burlington train pulled into the Union Depot Miss Sears, Mr. Stein, of the clothing firm of Ederheimer, Stein &amp; Co., and the author, made up a small purse and offered it to little Josie, but it was a long time before Miss Sears could induce her to accept it, even as a loan until she reached New York.  Finally we took her to the Erie Depot, got her a section in a Pullman car, "tipped" the porter, and saw her off on her journey, after having telegraphed to her aunt, Miss Josie Cullen, 156 East 115th Street, New York, to meet her niece at the Jersey City ferry.</p><P>Friday, 6th.  I am stopping at the Grand Pacific Hotel while in Chicago.  Have visited Jackson Park, the World's Fair site, and other places of interest in the great city by the lake.  This is my first visit to Chicago.  If an individual opinion, founded on a two days' ramble through the business part of the city, amounts to anything, New York has a very dangerous rival here for first place in the list of large cities.</p><P>Some of the buildings have a grander and more imposing appearance on the outside than any of New York's mammoth structures.  The bustle and flurry of the multitudes indicate that Chicago is determined to keep pace with the times.</p><P>Saturday, 7th.  Left Chicago at 2 P.M., on the Illinois Central Fast Mail for the South.</p><P>Sunday, 8th.  Arrived in Jackson, Miss., at 1.30 P.M.  I was robbed while asleep on the train last night.  I was the only passenger in the Pullman car <HI REND="italics">Feronia</HI>
108.sgm:, except two others in the stateroom .  When I went to bed the conductor, the negro porter, and the <HI REND="italics">buffet</HI>
108.sgm: man were "shooting craps."  When I woke up this morning and missed forty dollars in gold that I had in my pocket, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:came to the conclusion that some one of the crap shooters must have played in hard luck and replenished his funds from my pocket.</p><P>Will have to wait here until 6.30 to-morrow morning for the "Little Jay" train.  Am stopping at the Lawrence House.  I hope the people of Jackson will wake up soon and build a decent first-class hotel for their visitors.  This old, dilapidated, rattle-trap hotel is not fit for negro ex-slaves to stop in.  The fare is actually worse than that of a San Francisco fifteen cent Third Street or East Street hash house.  The hotel people conduct it on a starvation basis, and charge their guests two dollars a day for letting them go hungry, while the fleas and mosquitoes relieve them of any surplus blood that they may have.  I should like to caution my friends and the public at large to steer well clear of the Lawrence House poker sharps.  These rowdies are not Mississippians.  They belong to the carpet-bag element which invaded the South from the tenderloin districts of Cincinnati, New York, Boston, and other large cities, after the close of the War of Secession.  They are a curse to the South.  They never were decent citizens of any place.  About a dozen of those who make their headquarters around the Lawrence House--when they are not in jail--form a combination that rivals the Sutter Street fruitpickers of San Francisco, and the Thorne-Conan-Williams "compound" of bunko steerers of Yohohama.</p><P>But let me say once for all, that vultures like those are not allowed to enter society in the South under any pretext whatever.</p><P>Southern society draws the line on gamblers, bunko steerers, wine peddlers, bar-keepers, sure-tip horse-racers, quacks, shysters, political bosses, street-corner orators, fakirs, parvenus, disreputable women, and all other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:malodorous pests, just the same as it does the color line.</p><P>The war deprived the better elements of Southern society of their wealth and, in many instances, their homes.  Grant, with his overwhelming numbers, laid waste the beautiful Valley of the Mississippi, and his soldiers plundered the vanquished citizens of all their possessions.  But all the Grants, Shermans, and Farraguts, with all the powerful armies and navies and foraging parties of foreigners that they could command, could never deprive the Southern lady or gentleman of her or his natural inheritance of courtesy and hospitality.  Grant recognized this fact, and he acknowledged it on many occasions, including the surrender of Lee at Appomattox.  He thereby gained the respect and esteem of those whom he had conquered by means of superior numbers of imported thirteen-dollars-per-month "patriots."</p><P>The most unfortunate mistake ever made by the South was the hauling down of its own flag.</p><P>The Stars and Stripes belonged to no one if not to the Mother State, and all the other States had equal rights under it.  The flag had been handed down to us by our forefathers, with their blessing.  It was ours by legitimate inheritance, and under its immortal colors we should have lived or died.</p><P>The cause of the South was right.  Had it been maintained under our old banner it would have lived, and those who went to war would have lived.  The slavery question would have been compromised when the time came, and the negroes would have been sent out of the country instead of being turned loose to relapse into barbarism and thereby force the citizens to establish the lynch code.</p><P>From the Canadian border to the Gulf of Mexico, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:from the Altantic to the Pacific, we have had our lesson written in blood.  And all on account of what?  A political discussion involving the question as to whether the citizens of several States, including Virginia, the grand old mother State that gave us George Washington, had a right to the possession of several million head of live stock which they had acquired.  This live stock had been acquired by the citizens in the same way that all other live stock was, and still is acquired: The citizens had purchased it and bred it.</p><P>Although the war resulted in setting this live stock free, it would be as absurd to think that the young men of the North fought with that object in view, as would it be to imagine <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
108.sgm: that the negro race was ever created to be anything higher than a race of servants.</p><P>The native born young men of the North who went to the front say they fought for the preservation of the flag.  They deny the charge of having fought to place the African on an equality with themselves.</p><P>President Lincoln, yielding to what he believed to be the demands of true "Christianity," and unable to see the ultimate disastrous result that his act was bound to bring upon the slaves that he thought to elevate, issued a proclamation declaring the slaves "free."  His advisers went a step further beyond civilized comprehension in essaying to place them on a social equality with Americans.</p><P>After thirty years of toleration of the fanatical idea that the negroes are eligible to the society of white people, all civilized America now declares that the freed live stock will never become desirable citizens of any place except Africa, while God controls the universe.</p><P>Let those who have not yet learned this lesson lose no more time in that direction.  It is as plain as A B C; and what is the use of anyone--except the up-to-date <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE FANATICAL EXPERIMENT WITH AMERICAN LIBERTY.<LB>"Equal rights to all two-legged animals, including one breed which does not even resemble man in color."-- <HI REND="italics">Parvenu Patriotic Methodism, 1861--1865</HI>
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108.sgm:politician, the acknowledged curse to America--attempting to deny the truth.</p><P>The War is a thing of the past.  A mere matter of history with the present generation.  Grand Army veterans (the real ones) and Confederate colonels alike are being gathered in by old Father Time, and it is only a question of a few years when the last one of those brave old warriors will have disappeared from the face of the earth forever.  They will bequeath to us the result of their experiences, for which the chronic bounty jumpers and pension pickers claim all the honors and get most of the money.</p><P>We of the rising generation throughout the country know from history how the <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
108.sgm: soldiers gained their experiences.  Therefore, let us not discuss the old battles any more, unless we can do so from a common-sense point of view, and without any excitement.  Let us profit by the experiences of our unfortunate ancestors, and improve our American society under the good old reliable flag which has been handed down to us.</p><P>Drop the malignant epithets, "Yankee" and "Rebel."  Those terms were invented by fanatics and foreigners to aggravate our interstate quarrel.</p><P>"Yankee Doodle" and "Marching Through Georgia" are two airs that should be suppressed.  They are "played out."</p><P><HI REND="italics">There are no Rebels or Yankees, or any such persons in America</HI>
108.sgm:, except perhaps a few thousand feeble-minded officer-seekers who are not above agitating an unfortunate question, in the wrong spirit, if they think they can, by such ignoble means, secure a few anarchistic constituents.  The average pension picker is more of a rebel than the ex-Confederate veteran ever was.</p><P>The Confederate fought for his home, while many of the pensioners never fought at all.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>To preserve peace, I would suggest to all good citizens to let the "Star Spangled Banner" be played in waltz and polka time (two, three, and five step, if desired) that we may all of us--Greenway included, this time--dance to its strains.  Anything that is legitimate, to preserve national peace and union.  But do not forget to keep the color line well defined, North, South, East, West, and all over the country.</p><P>It is better to stick to your own color, if you care anything for your social standing.  Mulattoes are not considered eligible to membership in polite social organizations in any part of the United States or Canada; and I am very well assured that no lady or gentleman would care to be the mother or father of a child that would have to be branded as an ineligible.</p><P>Since the passage of the law--long may it live--prohibiting marriage between blacks and whites, the presence of a mulatto at a cotillion would be liable to give rise to more or less suspicion, in addition to the rank negro odor.</p><P>Not that the average mulatto is really any less properly behaved than certain members of Parvenucracy.  Possibly he may be more polite, more courteous, in the deceptive outward appearance, and all that, but even then he had been better not begotten at all, because people <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
108.sgm: say ugly things.</p><P>Apropos of the effect that the War of 1861-65 had on American society, the idea that it will be fought over again some day on similar lines is too absurd to be worthy of ridicule.  However, it is not hard to understand that persons who lost their friends and property through the struggle can retain sectional feelings and considerable bitterness and still be sane.  But when it comes to fighting it over again, that is another proposition entirely.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE AMERICAN DECISION AFTER THIRTY YEARS OF TOLERATION.<HSEP>In order to avoid another civil war it will be necessary to ship a few millions of niggers back to where the New England blackbirders brought them from."-- <HI REND="italics">Uncle Sam's Common Sense View, 1895</HI>
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108.sgm:<P>That any American citizen outside of the Methodist Church or an insane asylum dreams that civilized America will ever again listen to fanaticism, and allow it to uproot society in this country with another interstate war, I doubt.</p><P>But, on the other hand, that American society will free itself some day from this slothful, personized Satanophany, this personified black plague, which Harriet Beecher Stowe and other fanatics induced President Lincoln to liberate in our midst, I doubt not.</p><P>When this inevitable reform movement begins, we can say that a step in the right direction has been taken.</p><P>The only way to get rid of an evil is by removing its foundation.</p><P>There is plenty of room in Africa for the black race.</p><P>I mention this fact for the good of society, and nothing else.</p><P>Who doubts my sincerity in this particular may call on me or write to me, and I will produce my authority for saying that it is a common thing throughout the Southern part of our country to see from one to an unlimited number of unmarried negresses, in almost every village, town, or settlement, raising up illegitimate offspring just like cattle.</p><P>Just fancy from one to three females, with from one to three whelps each,--I refuse to say children,--all living in one house with some aged negress whom they call "Granny," and not a sign of a husband, nor even so much as a contract marriage certificate, in the entire kennel.  The whelpage comprising all the different shades between the greasy, shiny African black, and sunburned, malarial white, peculiar to the semi-acclimated carpet-bagger.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"God's children" (?).<ANCHOR ID="n25-2">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: BAH!</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-2">God never begot but one Son on this planet.  That Son founded The Church, but there were no negroes among his Apostles, nor is there any evidence to prove that He ever regarded the negro as a human.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>Here religion is dragged into the lowest depths and "free dumps" of degradation and hideous mockery.  Fancy a negro "preacher," the father of a dozen or more of illegitimate whelps, getting up and declaring that the Lord has come down from heaven and commanded him personally to preach the gospel.  His hearers listen to him with about the same degree of attention as that which is usually bestowed by a herd of cattle upon a new bellowing, fighting bullock.</p><P>At the conclusion of the "sermon"--which is usually at night--the "brethern" and "sisters" proceed to ransack all the barnyards, hen roosts, and watermelon and potato patches in the vicinity.</p><P>And all this, bear in mind, gentle reader, having developed itself since the Lincoln Emancipation Proclamation.  When they were slaves they were certainly as well housed and fed, by their owners, as is your horse.  Such debauchery as exists among them now never could have developed when they were slaves, except in the fanatical mind of the author of "Uncle Tom's Cabin," for then they had to work.  Now that they are "freed" they interpret freedom to mean license to steal from white people--their former lawful owners.  The bucks think they have a license to assault and butcher every white woman and child that they can catch unprotected.</p><P>How many of those fanatics who ask you and me to admit the negro into our homes on a basis of "social equality" would like to have negro husbands or sons-in-law?</p><P>That some Methodists may be found who could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A TYPE OF THE PULPIT POLITICIAN.<LB>Methodist Preacher I. J. Lansing, who, in order to get his name in the papers, slandered the President of the United States.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:stomach the African odor, I doubt not.  My observations of curious forms of unnatural depravity have been extensive, and it takes a good deal to astonish me.</p><P>Talk about Fred Douglass and his great political "pull"!  Bah!  The mere presence in the political field of an ordinary man born out of wedlock ought to be sufficient to disgust a decent person with "modern politics."</p><P>What of it if Douglass did have ability to talk?  Was he the only eligible person in New York?</p><P>Because he posed as the illegitimate evolution of a she slave who formed an <HI REND="italics">intrigue</HI>
108.sgm: with some depraved white wretch; because he inherited brain from his mother's self-degraded paramour, and used it to a good advantage to himself, among certain members of the white race who possessed less common sense than he, is that any reason why he should have been given a position in the diplomatic corps, and afterward "canonized"?</p><P>That many of the world's smart talkers, stubborn fighters, and perfidious rulers were born out of wedlock is true.  That some of them accomplished historical feats and extraordinary objects, no less so.</p><P>William the Conqueror was the illegitimate son, as every schoolboy ought to know, of a wild Norman prince, of the Collonna or Poniatowski class, very likely.  His mother was a poor peasant girl.</p><P>William conquered Britain, and then instituted the Feudal System, which gave to the landlords, like Huntington, Sage, Gould, Vanderbilt, and Crocker, the "honeymoon" privileges with all the brides among their tenants, employees, and hired help.</p><P>But I fail to see that that is any reason why Douglass should not be the patron saint of the Parvenucracy.  Canonize him.  Put him up as a mulatto Jesus, and pray <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:to him, you idiotic dudes and dudines; build statues of him to show that you consider marriage unnecessary and the present marriage law a failure.  Let the vulgar "new woman" mount her "wheel" and make pilgrimages to "Saint Douglass'" tomb, to show that she approves of the manner in which he was begotten.</p><P>Brazilla, Miss., November 9, 1891.  I left Jackson on the 6.30 train this morning, and reached Fayette about ten o'clock.  Lunched at Mrs. Guilminot's, attended to some little business matters, and started up the road for Tillman on the afternoon train.</p><P>While changing cars at Harriston I saw my uncle, Mr. Calvin Chambliss, and his son-in-law, Mr. Willie C. Starnes, standing in the depot.  Of course they did not recognize me until I told them who I was, for I had not seen them in over ten years.  I had only a few moments at my disposal at Harriston before the train pulled out, but in that time Uncle Calvin and Will took me over to their house, a short distance away, to meet a houseful of my cousins, whom I had never seen.  Those were Cousin Drucilla (Mrs. Starnes), Miss Drucy Starnes, Miss Callie Starnes, Willie C. Starnes, Jr., and Lillie, the "baby."  While I was being interviewed by this happy family Uncle Calvin decided to go up the road with me.  Promising my pretty cousins to come back to see them soon, I left in company with my uncle and arrived at Tillman Station at about sunset.</p><P>My brother, Quitman, having heard, by some means or other, that I was coming, was at the depot in his buggy to meet me.  The distance from Tillman up to Brazilla, my mother's old cotton plantation, is only two miles; just a nice walk for an appetizer.  So we put Uncle Calvin into the buggy, and Quitman and I walked on up.</p><P>During this half hour's walk "Buddy" gave me an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:outline of what had happened since I left home.  When we reached the house mother was standing in the door waiting for us.  How natural she looked, in her black dress, with her almost snow-white hair, dressed in the old time Southern fashion.  The same sweet mother that she always was.  It was just before nightfall, and the sight of my mother standing there, holding a little child by the hand, reminded me of the days when I could not get along without her.  The pretty little tot is mother's favorite grandchild, brother Quitman's daughter, and my niece.  Her name is Miss Nellie, but, on account of her clear complexion and angelic appearance, mother calls her "the doll baby."</p><P>There are other nieces and nephews besides little Nellie--both of my brothers, Alex and Quitman, and also my only sister, Elizabeth, are married.  They were all single when I left this dear old home in 1883, but many changes have taken place during the eight years that I have been away.  Six or seven years ago Quitman, the eldest son, led off in the matrimonial line by marrying Miss Leanora Sharbrough, a daughter of the late Rev. Mr. Sharbrough, whose name is as well-known in Mississippi as the name of the State capital.  His son, the Rev. Maloki Sharbrough, is now the presiding elder of some church in Ukiah, Cal.  Sister Elizabeth soon followed suit by marrying Mr. Frank W. Sharbrough of Campbellsville, a brother of Leanora.  There are two or three in that branch of the family who call me Uncle Will.  One of those is a namesake, William Chambliss Sharbrough.  Brother Alex fell in line only a short time ago.  So now mother says that I am the only single one left.  She says she has seen stories in the papers and heard rumors to the effect that I am not liable to remain single very much longer, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:but I tell her that I am not well enough established in business to settle down yet awhile.  And besides this, I am young enough to stand a few years more of "single blessedness," and in the meantime I can gather a little more experience with the world.</p><P>At home, Tuesday, November 10.  I had a curious dream last night, or rather this morining before I woke up.  I dreamed that I was transformed into a two-year old boy again, and that mother was teaching me to talk.  Everything about the old home was exactly as I remembered it twenty-two years ago.  The ten-acre grove of old oaks, tall hickories, picans, black gums, pines, elms, beeches, and the cedars, live oaks, and other evergreens were all white with snow.  Out around the barn the cows were lowing, the horses neighing, and the hens cackling; and away off in the fields I could hear the old hounds barking, as if chasing a rabbit or a fox, with some healthy voices of hunters following them.  To all this pleasant mixture of old familiar sounds the robins and wax-wings in the trees around the house added their early morning chirps, while they were having a fine breakfast of frozen chinaberries and huckleberries.</p><P>"Missus say get up for breakfast," said a healthy, clear voice, with a strong colored accent.  I woke up to find that "General," the colored boy, had made up a fire in my room before calling me.  (Colored society is peculiarly adapted to fill some positions about the house.)  He had placed my clothes and shoes before the fire to warm, so that they would not freeze me when I jumped into them.  He had warm water and everything all ready for me, for it had turned very cold during the night.  Everything was exactly as I had dreamed it, except myself.</p><P>All the different sounds that I had heard were realities.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:It was just about sunrise, and everybody and everything about the old farm were wide awake, except me.  The voice that I heard in the next room, teaching the child to talk, was mother's voice all right enough, but the child was her little granddaughter, Nellie, who was just learning to say "grandma."</p><P>After breakfast I put on my rubbers and took a stroll around the place with my two brothers.</p><P>It was snowing just a little.  Everything around the old house looked as natural as it did when I was a small boy.  The barn, the stables, the cotton-houses, the corn-houses, the garden, the orchard, and in fact the whole place seems so familiar that it would not require much stretching of imagination to fancy that I have only been away a few weeks, when, in reality, I have been away eight long years.</p><P>Wednesday, November 11.  Had several invitations from old friends for the evening.  Dined with Senator John McC. Martin at his beautiful home in Port Gibson.  Met a great many old friends, including the Mason brothers, Captain Arch Jones, Charlie Wheelis, Hon. Evon M. Barber, Dr. John W. Barber, Dr. W. D. Redus, Mr. Wm. St. John Parker, Mr. J. W. Person, Mr. Austin Wharton, Messrs. John and Charles Gordon, Messrs. Bryon and Charles Levy, the Bernheimer brothers, Tommy Nesmith, Mr. J. H. Danjean, Mr. Kaufman, and others; spent the evening with Mr. William Morris and family in Port Gibson.  Mr. Morris has several charming daughters, some of whom have grown up and come out since I left home.  Am the guest of my cousins, Mr. and Mrs. John G. Hastings, while in town.</p><P>Thursday, November 12.  Received an invitation from Dr. and Mrs. J. W. Davenport; called and spent the day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:and dined with them.  Miss Kate is just as pretty and a little more charming than she ever was.  Miss Ruth, the eldest daughter, is to be married soon, and Miss Lou, the youngest, is also engaged, but Miss Kate says that she intends remaining single for a while.</p><P>Friday, 13th.  Attended a charity entertainment in Port Gibson, with my cousin, Miss Hastings.  Met representatives there of nearly all the old families of this section.</p><P>Sunday, 15th.  My twenty-sixth birthday.  Will remember the occasion for the rest of my life.  My mother had the whole family here to dinner, except sister, who missed her train.</p><P>The dinner itself was one of those Southern home dinners, which must be partaken of before any description that I could give would convey any reasonable idea of what one is like.  This one in particular was served in the old home where I was born and raised.</p><P>Mother sat at the head of the very same old walnut table that had been used in the family since she and father commenced housekeeping.  The rest of us were given the same places that we were accustomed to occupy after we got big enough to sit at the table with company, with the exception that my father's chair, vacant since December 31, 1879, was occupied by Quitman.</p><P>Sunday, 22d.  Went to Cousin Mattie Wilkinson's birthday dinner party at the Old Chambliss Castle, as the house is called on account of its ancient style of architecture.  This is the home of my grandfather, erected over one hundred ago.  Providence is the name of the plantation, and it is just a mile from Tillman Station.  If the reader should ever happen to pass that way, and should like to have a look at an original Southern home, I am quite sure that my cousins, Mr. and Mrs. L. H.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Wilkinson, and their boys, John, Robert, Sam, and Len, would be pleased to show him the old castle.  Cousin Mattie's guests were the Misses Andrews of Flower Hill; Miss Kate Futch of Raymond; Miss Rollins, Mr. Tommy Rowan, her three big brothers, Mr. Sam Price, and several others.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>HARRISTON, Miss., Monday, November 23, 1891.  Went to Fayette with my mother to call upon Captain J. J. Whitney and other relatives.  We had a smash-up on the way down from Tillman and narrowly escaped death.  The smoking car jumped off the track near Red Lick, and nearly threw the rest of the train down from a high embankment.  All the passengers had to get into the baggage car and on the tender, and go on to Harriston in that way.  Among the passengers on the train were Miss Mary Calhoun and Mr. Bat. Wade.  This reminds me of the time when this railroad was being built, and of the rides that I frequently took with other small boys on the construction train and on the hand cars with the section hands.  The existence of the road from Natchez to Jackson is due to the perseverance and untiring energy of General William T. Martin of Natchez, aided by a few friends.  It was completed about ten years ago.  When I left here the town of Harriston was not thought of.  It is the junction of the Yazoo and Mississippi Valley road and General Martin's Natchez and Jackson narrow gauge, about two miles from Fayette.  Among Harriston's prominent citizens are H. M. Quin, T. M. Carter, Dr. Campbell, W. G. and S. D. McNair, James M. Lowe, and others.</p><P>Mother and I remained in Fayette all day.  I had the the pleasure of meeting many old friends in the quiet little county seat of Jefferson County.  Among those were Captain Whitney, unquestionably one of the ablest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:lawyers in the State; Doctors Truly and Caradine, Mr. Campbell, Mr. F. H. Culley, Mrs. Guilminot, and several others.  Mrs. Guilminot has a very charming daughter, Miss Nona Guilminot.  She promises to become the belle of Fayette.</p><P>Tuesday, 24th.  Mrs. F. W. Sharbrough, my sister, arrived here this morning from Campbellsville, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: Vicksburg, on her way up to Brazilla to visit mother.  She has little William, the namesake, with her.</p><P>Wednesday, 25th.  Went to Port Gibson to visit our cousins, the Hastings'.</p><P>Thursday, 26th.  Attended the Thanksgiving services and dinner in Port Gibson, and returned home with Quitman in the afternoon.  Got caught in a terrific rain storm near Tillman, and reached home thoroughly drenched.  We were nearly killed by lightning during the storm.  A large oak within fifty feet of the buggy was knocked into splinters right ahead of us.  Those Mississippi thunder and lightning storms and cyclones are dangerous things.  I have a distinct recollection of the manner in which they used to stir things up when I lived here many years ago.</p><P>Saturday, 28th.  Went hunting with Cousin Tommy Rowan.  Between us we bagged sixteen squirrels and a number of birds, principally yellow hammers and sap sucks.</p><P>Monday, 30th.  Dined with Mrs. Elizabeth Montgomery, and her father, Colonel Pattison.</p><P>Mrs. Montgomery is the lady to whom I am indebted for some of my earliest lessons in reading, writing, geography and the other ordinary branches.  I attended her school at her home, Bannockburn Plantation, for several years when I was a small boy; and I considered it an honor to be entertained by my first teacher, and talk over the days when I used to compete for the head of the class--but seldom got there--with Cousin Charlie B. Darden, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Misses Cora and Clara Nesmith, Robert Mosley, Otis Benbrook, Early, and Tommy Nesmith, and several others.</p><P>Miss Clara and I generally managed to hold our places at the other end of the class, while Charlie and Miss Cora carried off all the medals and other prizes.  I always had an idea that Charlie and Miss Cora would make a match, but Walter Wade came along and captured his prize, and Charlie is still single.  I am told, however, that he goes down to Flower Hill quite often, "to see Dr. Davenport."</p><P>One of the doctor's pretty daughters is the attraction, I think.</p><P>St. Charles Hotel, New Orleans, December 4, 1891.  Arrived here at 10 o'clock this morning.  Came <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
108.sgm: Jackson and the Illinois Central Railroad.  My visit to Mississippi has affected me in a manner that is not easily described.  I was charmed beyond my fullest expectations to get back amid the scenes of my youth, but I thought that I had been roaming around the world on sea and land enough to get rid of every symptom of homesickness.  I am now beginning to think that those renewals of old friendships and acquaintances, those family gatherings at the old home, those meetings with relatives, some of whom are beautiful young ladies who have grown up from mere children, and made their <HI REND="italics">de&acute;buts</HI>
108.sgm: in the last eight or ten years, were more than I was prepared for.  When I left San Francisco five weeks ago, it was with an intention to pay a visit to mother and my relations, and then return to the service of the Pacific Mail.<ANCHOR ID="n26-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: With that object in view I passed my examination and got my certificate for first officer.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-1">This was long before Collis P. Huntington, the giant octopus, got to be president of the Mail Company.  Mr. George Gould was president then, and he treated the officers like human beings at least.</NOTE>
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108.sgm:<P>Now that I am going back to San Francisco I have not the least desire to return to duty on board ship again.</p><P>I have heard the assertion all my life, that a man who has sailed on salt water for a few years cannot content himself at any occupation on shore.</p><P>Now, that is utter nonsense--all bosh, to use the proper term for such ridiculous ideas.</p><P>The originator of this absurd theory was, no doubt, some poor, homeless sailor who had not a friend or a family tie in the world, and knew not how to go out and make friends.</p><P>Sailors are accused of having "a wife in every port," but that is utterly false, and I wish to deny it on behalf of hundreds of my friends who go to sea for a living.  Sailors as a rule are not half as bad as the dudes and "gentlemen of leisure" who have a much better chance to be honest and decent.  The sailor who goes on an occasional spree, and gets drunk or beer, is called "a drunken tar."  But the dude who gets drunk on champagne, and makes a hog of himself among ladies, is styled "a gentleman."</p><P>There are very few sailors, however, who do not live in hopes of being able some day to live on dry land like other people, and build up homes for good wives whom they expect to find among the beautiful girls they see when they go uptown from their ships.  The writer is no exception to this rule.</p><P>Saturday, December 5.  Left New Orleans on the 5 P.M. Southern Pacific Express for San Francisco.</p><P>Sunday, 6th.  Breakfasted at Houston, Tex., and got some dinner, such as it was, at San Antonio.</p><P>I hope the Southern Pacific Railroad Company will eventually recognize the necessity of an improvement <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:in the eating accommodations along this line.  It should run dining cars like other railroads.  The <HI REND="italics">menu</HI>
108.sgm: at the meal stations along through Texas and Arizona consists of whit-leather steak, overdue eggs, bad-smelling butter, corn dodgers, and "boot-leg" coffee.  It is the same at every eating place, including the price, seventy-five a meal.</p><P>The only redeeming feature along here in connection with the railroad is the color line, which is drawn just a trifle finer than in any other part of the South.</p><P>In all of the States south of Mason and Dixon's Line there are laws compelling the railroad companies to carry separate passenger coaches for negroes, with signs on them reading: "This car for negroes."</p><P>This is done for sanitary purposes, as the African odor is very unhealthful.  In hot weather it is unbearable.<ANCHOR ID="n26-2">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-2"><P>The now defunct race of fanatics who made Mr. Lincoln believe that the color of the African was "only skin deep" never offered any satisfactory explanation of the sickening stench.  This rank odor is evidently in the flesh and blood of the negro, and not alone in the dye, because it is noticeable in all cases where negro blood exists.</p><P>This proves that the infusion of white blood into the black race does not improve the latter, but merely degrades the former.</p></NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>In Texas the sign reads: "This car for niggers."</p><P>Crossing the Desert, Tuesday, 8th.  After crossing the Colorado River at Yuma we entered a barren, sandy desert, which reminds me of the great desert of Egypt.  This is the Colorado Desert.  In prehistoric times this great basin was undoubtedly a part of the Gulf of California.  Scientific men have demonstrated this beyond a question or doubt.  Mr. W. S. Chapman of San Francisco has devoted a great deal of attention to the Colorado Desert, and has spent considerable money investigating the subject, in order to show the cause of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. WILLIAM S. CHAPMAN.<LB>"The great aim and desire of my life is to flood the Colorado Desert and relieve the surrounding country of those destructive droughts."--Chapman.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:its existence and point out a remedy for the evil that it is doing the surrounding country for miles and miles on all sides.</p><P>According to Mr. Chapman the desert is the cause of the droughts in this region.  Concerning its origin, Mr. Chapman has written a long article from which I am pleased to quote the following extracts:</p><P>"The great Colorado Desert was, in prehistoric times, a part of the Gulf of California.  The Colorado and Gila Rivers emptying into the gulf below Fort Yuma, carry vast quantities of sand, which, being deposited in the gulf, have been beaten back by the tides until an effectual dam or barrier has been formed across the narrow part of the gulf, entirely shutting out the water, and thus leaving the upper portion--which is now the desert--without connection with the ocean.  There being no supply of water from any source to counteract the waste by evaporation, which is very great in that hot latitude, this resulted in time in the extinction of this large portion of the gulf.</p><P>"The large, dry basin is very deep.  In many places it is 270 feet below the level of the sea.  This forms what may be appropriately called a furnace.  At times it becomes so hot that to lay the hand upon the wagon-tire or any metallic substance will almost instantly cause a blister.</p><P>"When this basin or furnace, which contains about four thousand square miles, was kept full of water, it supplied  moisture to the atmosphere by evaporation.  The cool waters from the ocean, brought in by the tides, constantly gave out their refreshing moisture, and modified the hot climate to an extent little thought of at the present time.</p><P>"Careful, intelligent observations will satisfy anyone <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:that the extinction of those cooling waters brought destruction to vegetation all over Southern California, Arizona, Nevada, and Utah."</p><P>Mr. Chapman goes on to explain how the desert causes the droughts.</p><P>Says the scientific gentleman: "Those desiccating north winds which visit us, to the detriment and often the ruin of our entire crops, are caused by this furnace.  That this fact may be the more readily comprehended, let us imagine a fire covering four thousand square miles, and kept continuously burning.  The result can be only this: An immense volume of heated air must ascend rapidly.  This hot air, rushing mainly in a northerly direction, comes in contact with cold currents of air and becomes compressed, not unlike a squeezed sponge.  This dry compressed air, or squeezed sponge, starts back, expanding again as it rushes along on the surface of the earth.  As it expands it absorbs all the moisture from the vegetation that it comes into contact with."</p><P>Mr. Chapman is talking of two plans for refilling the desert with water.  Both of his plans are good, and either one, if carried out, would result in increasing the crops and the value of many thousands of square miles of land to the extent of many times the cost of the experiment.  One of Mr. Chapman's plans is to cut a canal from the Gulf of California and fill the hot basin with cool salt water.  The other plan is to dam up the Colorado River at a point above Yuma, and turn that stream into the desert, and fill the sandy furnace with fresh water.</p><P>I am personally acquainted with Mr. Chapman.  His daughter married Mr. Jesse Grant, son of the General.  I have conversed with several prominent Californians with reference to Mr. Chapman's plans, and they all seem to favor the undertaking of one of them.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>No one with whom I have talked on the subject seems to have any doubt as to the beneficial results which would naturally follow the flooding of this basin.</p><P>Mr. Chapman and his friends are confronted, however, with a gigantic opposition to their laudable undertaking, viz: The Southern Pacific Railroad.</p><P>To this, like everything else that anyone ever suggested, or ever will suggest, for the benefit of California, Messrs. Huntington, Crocker and Company object.  And they will back their objections with seventy millions of dollars of the public's coin that they (Huntington, Crocker and Company) have defrauded the government out of.  They have a few miles of railroad track across the desert, and, when Mr. Chapman turns in the water it will necessitate the building of a few miles of trestle-bridge, or the moving of a few miles of track, all of which the government would gladly pay for.  But Mr. Huntington objects, and all of that region must suffer the consequences, unless we overrule his objections.  Take a look into this enterprise, Mayor Sutro, and let us have your valuable opinion on the subject.  I am sure that the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm: will be on the side of the people and Mr. Chapman.  The New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
108.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">World</HI>
108.sgm: favor legitimate improvements, also.</p><P>Possibly we might persuade "King" Huntington to allow the United States Government to build some boats to ferry his trains over the desert after it is turned into a lake.  Huntington could then place his friend Captain Searle in command of the inland fleet.</p><P>Palace Hotel, San Francisco, Wednesday, December 9.  Arrived here about nine o'clock this morning.</p><P>After the twenty-five hundred mile ride from New Orleans, across the plantations of Louisiana, the plains of Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona, the scorching desert <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:and the hot San Joaquin Valley of California, I think a little rest is the next thing in order.  During this long, dusty, tiresome journey I endeavored to make up my mind to give up my position in the Pacific Mail, and try something else.  Steamship travel is certainly more agreeable than long trips by rail, but I should prefer being in some position that would not necessitate any traveling either way, unless I felt disposed to take a little pleasure trip.</p><P>There is nothing that I have seen during ten years of travel that would suit me as well as a home of my own.</p><P>It is quite true that we see many things during our travels which remind us of home, and make us wish that we possessed homes that we could live in like the rest of civilized mankind.  But it seems to me that the longer one roams around the world, and the more one sees and thinks of what one should like to have, the further away grows the vision of realized hope.</p><P>Tuesday, December 22, 1891.  My leave of absence expires to-day, and I will be expected to report for duty.  If I go to sea again, it will be three years before I will be entitled to another furlough.  I have been talking with my friend, Mr. George H. Rice, with reference to my intentions for the future.  Mr. Rice, besides being a representative of the class commonly called self-made men, is a thorough gentleman.  No matter how, when, or where you find him, he is invariably the same.  When he speaks it is always with perfect frankness and truthfulness.  And his actions, to the very minutest details, are in perfect keeping with his words.  Like his friend, Mr. A. N. Towne, Mr. Rice came of an excellent family.  Both of those gentlemen commenced life for themselves, after reaching manhood, with a capital stock on hand consisting chiefly of common sense and sufficient energy and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:personal courage to live up to their convictions.  To-day Mr. Towne is a vice president of the railroad, and Mr. Rice is traffic manager of the Pacific Mail S.S. Co. and the Occidental and Oriental S.S. Co.  The opinion of <illus entity="a108-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A Type of the True Mother; or, the Highest Degree in Society.</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:the latter gentleman I deem valuable to me at the present time.</p><P>When I told Mr. Rice that I did not wish to go to sea any more, he advised me to think well before coming to a definite decision.</p><P>In his frank way Mr. Rice said to me: "You have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:been with us a long time now; you have certificates entitling you to promotion, and you have a splendid chance to become captain of one of the steamers in a few years.  Therefore, I would, if I were you, consider all of these facts before giving up a certainty for an uncertainty."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>PALACE HOTEL, San Francisco, Friday, June 22, 1894.  It is now two years and six months since the conversation with Mr. Rice, referred to in the preceding chapter.</p><P>Acting upon Mr. Rice's friendly advice, I thought many times over the prospects of returning to duty and spending several years more on the high seas.  The result of this thinking was this: Instead of returning to duty, I resigned my position.  And right glad am I <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
108.sgm: that I did resign.</p><P>Right here I wish to correct an erroneous impression which some smart person has created concerning Captain Searle.  The story that the captain is an uncle of mine is utter nonsense.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Captain Robert R. Searle is not related to me at all</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>I never heard of him in my life until I met him on board the <HI REND="italics">City of New York</HI>
108.sgm: in 1887.  He was captain of the steamer, and I was a passenger.</p><P>After entering the Pacific Mail service I simply occupied official positions under his command on board the <HI REND="italics">New York</HI>
108.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Peking</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>On the strength of my naval certificates and private recommendations I was appointed to those positions--by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company--in precisely the same way that all United States merchant naval officers are appointed.</p><P>The captain is an Englishman by birth, so he says.  He has many friends all over the world, but no relatives.</p><P>The captain of a ship is always referred to by the rest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:of the ship's company as "the old man."  Someone not conversant with nautical terms heard me speak of Captain Searle as "the old man," and concluded that he was my uncle.  I have, heretofore, regarded the "nephew" theory and "adopted son" story as huge jokes.  It is only in this, my published diary, that I have taken the trouble to dispel the delusion that I am "heir to the captain's handsome fortune."</p><P>That the captain asked me to become his adopted son is true.  That he told Mrs. Dr. W. F. McNutt, Mr. Lewis Ernst Phillips, General and Mrs. T. B. Bunting, and a few dozen other well known Californians that I <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
108.sgm: his adopted son is also true.  He seemed to have an idea that because I was appointed by the Pacific Mail Co. to fill an officer's position on a ship that he happened to be in command of, that he had a right to adopt me,--whether I wanted to be adopted or not,--and make me give up my dead father's honorable name, and take the name of a foreigner, a stranger of whose pedigree or past life I knew nothing.  I refused, politely of course, to be adopted by him.  He is a wealthy man, it is quite true, but I do not believe in exchanging, for a few thousand dollars, the name which has been handed down to me by my ancestors.</p><P>I resigned my position in the Pacific Mail simply because I did not care to go to sea in ships controlled by C. P. Huntington, the arch-enemy to the best interest of California, my favorite State.</p><P>At first the sky of my future prospects was overcast and gloomy.  Every line of business that I looked into in San Francisco was dull.  To use the expression of prominent merchants, "Trade was dead."  Too much competition for the local demand, coupled with Huntington's high-handed railroad freight charges, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:McKinley's Bunko Bill, had brought-destruction to our commerce.  Many of the largest firms were reducing their staffs of employees by one-half, and cutting down the salaries of the rest, in order to keep out of the receiver's hands.  Bright, intelligent men, capable of attending to almost anything in the line of legitimate trade, were standing around with their hands in their pockets, like David Copperfield's friend, Micawber, waiting for something to turn up.  It did not take me very long to decide that it would be a waste of time to look for a position of any kind that I would care to fill under the circumstances.</p><P>During the following winter Mr. Rice informed me several times that I could return to the Pacific Mail if I wanted to.  But I had had enough salt water sailing, in an official capacity, to last me a long lifetime.</p><P>I undertook to start a new line of advertising here, and made arrangements with the late Mr. Kreling to put an advertising curtain in the Tivoli Opera House; but a bum artist named Lee Lash, a member of the Bohemian Club, and a supposed friend, whom I employed to make a sample sketch of the Tivoli drop curtain to show the merchants how the signs were to be placed on it, appropriated the contract and the idea, together with sixty dollars in cash.  With the assistance of his father, and his brother Sam, and their attorney, Edward Lande of 405 California Street, Lee Lash developed the curtain scheme on the stolen idea.  He made a good deal of money out of it, so I am told.  I employed "Lawyer" W. M. Cannon to enjoin the Lashes from using the ideas, and have Lee arrested for obtaining money under false pretenses; but the shyster compromised with the knaves for the sixty dollars which Lee got from me.  The shyster then charged me half of the amount for giving Lash a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:receipt that left him in undisputable possession of the business.</p><P>This lesson taught me to steer clear of the society of sheenies and shysters.  Creations like the Lashes, claiming to be Jews, are well calculated to get honest Jews a bad name.</p><P>The chapter of the Lash history with which I am personally acquainted affords such a true picture of the real character of the particular class to which he belongs that it would be an injustice to my readers to omit a brief mention of it.  I see no reason in the world why I should not give it to my readers; I certainly paid for it, and paid dearly, too.</p><P>I met Mr. Lee Lash through some mutual acquaintances in January, 1891.  I shall not give the names of those mutual acquaintances, for I esteem them very highly.  They have expressed to me their regrets for ever having known Mr. Lash at all.</p><P>At the time of my first chance meeting with Lash, I was an officer of the <HI REND="italics">City of Peking</HI>
108.sgm:, and Mr. Lash was introduced to me as the "talented young artist" (?).  He had a studio in the back yard of his father's house upon Post Street, but subsequently he moved out and set up in "business" in a little cottage at 2309 Bush Street, near Steiner, and right close to a big Catholic church.</p><P>In April, 1892, while I was confined to my room at the Palace Hotel from the effects of a bullet of lead which Dr. McNutt had extracted from my right leg, some lady friends of mine called upon me one day, bringing Lee Lash along to carry some flowers which they had picked for me.</p><P>Mr. Lash, in the kindness of his heart, called again.  About this time, while waiting for my wounded leg to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:get well, Mr. Charles Duryea Smith of New York called in to talk over the proposition of going into business in San Francisco, mentioning the advertising business.  Mr. Smith proposed to put advertisements on theater drop curtains, a scheme which was well known to everybody in New York and Paris.  Mr. Smith said that if I would go into business with him he would secure a contract with Mr. Kreling to advertise on the Tivoli drop curtain.  He went off and made arrangements with Kreling to that effect, and, while I was not enthused with his wild ideas of vast wealth to be made in that line, I agreed to go in with him as soon as I got well enough to walk out.  The young man seemed highly pleased with the prospects, and left me on the evening of April 19 in high spirits.  That night there was a violent earthquake which shook San Francisco from cellar to garret.  The shocks kept coming at intervals for three days, and I think they shook my poor friend Smith's mind all to pieces, for he came in to see me on the morning after the first shock, looking like a ghost.</p><P>"My God, William," said the poor boy, "do you have those things very often?  If so, I will--"</p><P>He did not finish his sentence, for just then a rumbling sound, like an approaching freight train, caught his ear.</p><P>"Great Heavens, it's another earthquake!" said he.</p><P>In a second the giant caravansary began to rock and groan; windows rattled, doors flew open, and it looked for a few seconds as if we were going into the bowels of the earth.</p><P>General T. B. Bunting of Santa Cruz and Mr. M. G. Coward, now of the Chicago <HI REND="italics">Times-Herald</HI>
108.sgm:, were in my room at the time, and they will remember this circumstance:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"Good-by, gentlemen," said Mr. Smith, "I am going to leave this rocky, shaky city."  So saying, he left the room, and hurried away to his own apartments.</p><P>The next day the bell boy handed me a note reading as follows:</p><P>PALACE HOTEL, Thursday, April 21, 1892.</p><P>MY DEAR WILLIAM:</p><P>I am going home to-night.  Would have gone last night, but could not secure a sleeper.  Will drop in later to tell you good-by.  If you wish to develop the curtain scheme go ahead and do so; I must get out of San Francisco.</p><P>Sincerely yours,</p><P>(Signed)<HSEP>CHAS. D. SMITH.</p><P>I waited in hopes of seeing Mr. Smith before he left.  I expected him to call, but he never came.</p><P>The next day, Friday, April 22, my young friend William O. Warnock, a nephew of Mrs. Adam Forepaugh, of circus fame, called at the Palace and took me out for a drive, to give me a little fresh air.  We drove down toward San Bruno and called on some young lady friends of ours living out in the country, the Misses Nellie and Kate Dowling.</p><P>Miss Nellie ran down to the front gate to meet us.  Just then a boy came along crying out: "Extra <HI REND="italics">Report</HI>
108.sgm:, all about the suicide!"  Miss Nellie got a copy of the <HI REND="italics">Report</HI>
108.sgm:, and read: "Suicide at the Palace Hotel.  Charles D. Smith ends his earthly troubles.  Failing to hear from New York relatives, and becoming completely stranded, he puts a bullet in his heart."</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Report</HI>
108.sgm: went on to explain that the poor fellow was dunned for a week's board bill by Cashier Charles Clark of the hotel, and that having not the necessary funds with which to pay, had ended his life rather than ask anyone to help him out.  Had he known Mr. Clark as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:well as I do, he would not have bothered his head about the propriety of asking that gentleman for a little time, or even a small loan.  Mr. Clark is a very obliging cashier.  I have had favors from him myself, which I am happy to mention in order to clear this good man of the awful charge of having driven a guest of his hotel to suicide.</p><P>Subsequently I learned something more about poor Smith.  He was the son of a wealthy New Yorker, who, like a great many other unjust fathers, as well as would-be adopted fathers,--like Captain R. R. Searle,--threw barriers in the way of the young man's matrimonial inclinations.  This sad case of young Smith, and other similar cases, justify the assertion that I made in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
108.sgm:, March 17, 1895:  The parent or guardian who prevents a grown son or daughter from marrying is a worse enemy to society than a murderer, for he murders the spirit of the Goddess of Love, the highest redeeming spirit in mankind.</p><P>It was on the next morning after the news of Smith's suicide that Lee Lash called.  During the discussion of the unfortunate affair I called Lash's attention to the fact that it was strange that Smith should have considered himself hopelessly stranded when he had such a good money-making scheme under way.  I also mentioned to Mr. Lash the fact that I intended to let Smith have some money with which to develop his scheme.  At the same time I handed Lash Mr. Smith's letter.</p><P>Lash read the letter and then asked me all about the scheme.  I told him the facts.  In a minute Lash forgot all about the pathetic side of the story,--the suicide of the promoter of the scheme,--and began talking about my going ahead with it where Smith "left off."</p><P>"Why! see here, my dear friend, Smith has willed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:you his scheme," said Lash.  "I am an artist," continued Mr. Lash, "and I can paint the signs on the curtain; but you must remember that I am in a position which I cannot risk by going into trade.  Sign painting is trade, you know, and I am an artist.  But, since you are a friend of mine, I will do this work for you."</p><P>Mr. Lash seemed so enthusiastic, and was so persistent, that finally I told him to go ahead and make me a sketch of the Tivoli drop curtain, so that I could show it to the merchants.</p><P>I gave Lash an idea of how many signs there should be, and also how big the sketch should be.</p><P>"Good," said Mr. Lash, "I will have it ready for you in twenty-four hours."  So saying he took his departure, after having explained to me that he was "hard up," and did not propose to let his pride drive him to suicide, as in Smith's case.</p><P>"Would you let a man kill himself for a few paltry dollars?" asked Mr. Lash.  "All that I want is ten dollars."</p><P>He got him the ten, and went his way rejoicing.<ANCHOR ID="n27-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-1">I did not know at the time that Lee Lash was the same "artist" who begged permission to paint a picture of the "Old People's Home," and subsequently tried to make that charitable institution pay two thousand dollars for his worthless daub.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>Mr. Lash did not complete the sketch in twenty-four hours, nor in a week.  He kept running down to the Palace to tell me about some cigar signs or soap advertisements that he had seen on curtains in the <HI REND="italics">demi-monde</HI>
108.sgm: resorts of Paris where he had studied high art.</p><P>I humored him in his nonsense, and told him to get me some sort of sketch finished, and improve it later.</p><P>William Warnock asked me one day what Lash was doing around my room so much, and why he was in such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:a confidential mood with me all the time.  I told Mr. Warnock the circumstances, and was somewhat surprised at his saying that he would bet me a French dinner that Lash was playing me some trick or other.</p><P>I took the bet, and subsequently paid for the dinner.</p><P>While keeping me waiting for the sketch, Mr. Lash went quietly to Mr. Kreling and, representing himself as the rightful owner of the scheme, secured a new contract with that man on his own behalf.  The Mr. Lash wrote to his father, who was in some fake wine business in New Whatcom, Washington State, to hurry down to San Francisco and bring Sam Lash, the younger brother, with him.</p><P>On the 10th of May Lee Lash made a demand on me to pay him $50 for the sketch, which was still unfinished.  (An honest sign painter would have made the sketch in a few hours for $2.50, frame and all.)  Mr. Lash then came right out and told me that if I did not wish to pay so much for the sketch, I could let him have a half interest in the enterprise.  The talented artist subsequently assured me that if I did not care to accept either proposition, he would start an opposition business.</p><P>Seeing that I had confided my "inherited" ideas to a false friend, having investigated the scheme and having found that there was money in it, I paid "the talented artist" $50 more, making $60 in all, and took the sketch, still only half finished.</p><P>In the meantime old Isador Lash and Sam had arrived in the city.</p><P>I took the $2.50 sketch, which had cost me $60, to Taber, the photographer, to have a copy made of it to send to Washington to have copyrighted.  But the three Lashes, old man Isador, Lee, and Sam, got their heads together at the office of Edward Lande, an "attorney" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:of the Lash tribe, and together they went up to Mr. Taber and raised such a piteous howl about my having the sketch photographed, telling Mr. Taber that it was theirs, that the gullible old photographer gave the sketch to the little petty larceny Shylocks, who proceeded immediately to develop the business with the money that old Lash had made out of several well planned "failures" in trade.<ANCHOR ID="n27-2">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-2">New York, June 6, 1895.  The subjects of the above biography are carrying on the drop curtain advertising enterprise in this city.  Their office is at No. 25 West 30th Street.  They have an office in Diamond Street, Philadelphia, also.  They call it the "Lee Lash Company," or the "Lee Lash Studios," or some such Oscar Wilde name.  I can recommend the "firm" from personal knowledge.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>After Sam Lash had secured some orders for advertisements, he and the old man and Lee opened up business in the old Merchants' Exchange building, and called it the "Art Advertising Co."</p><P>The "talented young artist" abandoned his fastidious idea that an artist should not soil his artistic hands in vulgar trade, such as painting drop curtains.  He of the artistic "tastes" (I don't mean Oscar Wilde's tastes) even got up on a scaffold to add some finishing touches to a bicycle "ad."</p><P>The artistic scaffold fell down and almost killed him.  I am told that this accident crippled him in such a peculiar way as to constitute an impediment to matrimonial felicity.</p><P>But of that I know nothing, never having studied surgery of that kind further than the lecture contained in Deuteronomy xxiii.</p><P>The notoriety that I got through the papers over this affair brought me before the public in such a way that a great many other "business" men with schemes and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:ideas offered to let me go into partnership with them and invest various sums of money, which they assured me would "double in a little while."</p><P>One of the most promising of these schemes was laid before me by one F. E. Westervelt, a friend of Mr. Edwin Goeller of Pickens, Fulton &amp; Co.'s Commercial Agency.  Mr. Westervelt's scheme was for ceiling advertising, an entirely new invention, especially designed for barber shops.  Mr. Westervelt declared that he had everything necessary to open up business and develop his talents with, except money.  For fifteen hundred dollars he would let me have a half interest in his business, and guarantee me big profits.  He was highly recommended by Mr. Goeller, and when he informed me that my name would not necessarily have to be used in the advertising business, I decided to invest the fifteen hundred.</p><P>Westervelt started the business with a great flourish, and succeeded in renting the ceilings of nearly all the barber shops on the Pacific Coast.  Agents were sent to San Jose&acute;, Stockton, Sacramento, and many other interior cities, while Mr. Westervelt contracted with the San Francisco barbers in person, for the exclusive use of their ceilings and walls.</p><P>This was all smooth sailing.  But, after securing thousands of gaudily papered ceilings for advertising purposes, Mr. Westervelt suddenly discovered that the experienced advertisers of the commercial world did not care to invest in ceiling advertisements.</p><P>Upon making this startling discovery Mr. Westervelt rushed up to the Palace Hotel with the heart-rending news, "just received from home," that his "wife was dying," and that he must sell out his interest in the Ceiling Advertising Co. in order to get the necessary funds with which to go on to New York to "attend the funeral."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>The fifteen hundred had already been paid out, together with five hundred more; so there was nothing for me to do but buy out Mr. Westervelt's interest.  The transfer having been arranged at Mr. Goeller's Commercial Agency Office, I paid Mr. Westervelt what he wanted, and took charge of the business myself, with the understanding that Mr. Westervelt was to open up a branch office in the East, and co-operate with me.</p><P>Mr. Westervelt left the same night on the east-bound overland for New York, and has not written to either Mr. Goeller or me since.</p><P>It took me just a little less than a week to discover the cause of Mr. Westervelt's sudden desire to go East to attend his "wife's funeral."  Then I paid off the agents and offered the business for sale; but the Commercial Agency could not find a purchaser, even with the aid of Mr. Goeller's personal influence, so I pocketed my experience and twenty-five hundred dollars' worth of receipts for money paid out in this enterprise, locked up the office, turned the key over to the landlord, and retired from the advertising business.</p><P>After several more adventures similar, financially, to the above, I came to the conclusion that Mr. Rice's advice to think twice before launching out into the cold, deceitful business world to battle with land sharks and sheenies, was the best piece of advice that I ever had.</p><P>In the spring of '93, shortly after the experience with "fruit-pickers" mentioned in Chapter XIII, I took a trip through Southern California, after which I went to Honolulu on a visit.</p><P>Apropos of this visit to Honolulu, I sailed from San Francisco on the White Star Steamship <HI REND="italics">Oceanic</HI>
108.sgm:, Captain William Smith, on Tuesday, August 1, 1893.</p><P>On the 8th we arrived at Honolulu, where I put up at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:the Hawaiian Hotel.  Almost the first gentleman I met there was Rear-Admiral J. S. Skerrett, U.S. Navy.  I had been introduced to the admiral by Lieutenant T. S. Phelps, under highly favorable circumstances, at a large naval reception given at Mare Island by the officers of the U.S.S.  <HI REND="italics">Mohican</HI>
108.sgm:, during the previous winter.  The renewal of this acquaintance at Honolulu, and what follows, marks one of the most pleasant episodes of fifteen <illus entity="a108-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Steamship <HI REND="italics">Oceanic</HI>
108.sgm:years of travel.  Mr. Blount, the commissioner sent to Hawaii by President Cleveland, left there on the day I arrived, and Admiral Skerrett assumed full charge of all the diplomatic affairs, pending Mr. Blount's return to Washington.</p><P>That these diplomatic affairs were in a pretty unsettled state about the time they were turned over to Admiral Skerrett, is shown by several indisputable, undeniable facts in connection with the most disgraceful and cowardly betrayal of public trust that those little islanders ever had perpetrated upon them.</p><P>Having been in Honolulu many times before, having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:known the Damon missionary tribe of boodlers, as well as some reputable citizens of the place, having been in close touch with some of the ringleaders of the boodle "Annexation Club," and having lived in the hotel with the admiral and his staff, Flag Lieutenant Chas. E. Fox and Lieutenant Downes, L.  Wilson, U.S.N., and also Lieutenant Adams, Dr. F. J. D. Cordeiro, Paymaster McDonald, and others, all of whom I knew in society and with whom I conversed every day for more than a month, I am now prepared to write the truth.</p><P>For the mere sake of convenience I will state the truth plainly:</p><P>The origin of the "Provisional Government" of Honolulu, city only, had no immaculate conception, such as its promoters would have had us believe.</p><P>It was neither conceived by a pure spirit, born of an honest purpose, nor has it (up to the present time) suffered for its Judasism.</p><P>When I speak of Judasism and of the so-called government of Honolulu, I do not mean the representatives of the majority of the inhabitants of the Hawaiian group; I simply mean Sanford B. Dole, President of the pitiable little oligarchy of Honolulu; J. A. King, Minister of the Interior; S. M. Damon, ex-missionary, Minister of Finance; W. O. Smith, Attorney-General, and the following flocks of classified mercenary birds of the "Paradise of the Pacific":</p><P>"ADVISORY(?) COUNCIL.</p><P>"W. C. Wilder, Vice President; Cecil Brown, John Nott, F. W. McChesney, James F. Morgan, Ed. Suhr, J. Mendonca, J. Emmeluth, and C. T. Rodgers.  Secretaries.  Executive and Advisory Councils, E. D. Tenney, C. Bolte, W. F. Allen, Henry Waterho se, A. Young, F. M. Hatch.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"SUPREME COURT (?).</p><P>"`Hon.'  A. F. Judd, Chief Justice; `Hon.' R. F. Bickerton, First Associate Justice; `Hon.' W. F. Frear, Second Associate Justice; Henry Smith, Chief Clerk; Fred Wundenburg, Deputy Clerk; George Lucas, Second Deputy Clerk; J. Walter Jones, Stenographer.</p><P>"CIRCUIT JUDGES (?).</p><P>"First Circuit: H. E. Cooper, W. A. Whiting, Oahu; Second Circuit: A. N. Keoikai; Third and Fourth Circuits: S. L. Austin; Fifth Circuit: J. Hardy.  Offices and Court Room in Government Building, King Street.  Sitting in Honolulu, first Monday in February, May, August, and November.</p><P>"DISTRICT COURT (?).</p><P>"Police Station Building, Merchant Street.  William Foster, Magistrate; James Thompson, Clerk.</p><P>"DEPARTMENT OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS (?).</p><P>"Office in Government Building, King Street.  His Excellency (?) Sanford B. Dole, Minister of Foreign Affairs; Geo. C. Potter, Chief Clerk; W. Horace Wright and Ed. Stiles, Clerks.</p><P>"DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR (?).</p><P>"Office in Government Building, King Street.  His Excellency (?) J. A. King, Minister of the Interior; Chief Clerk, John A. Hassinger; Assistant Clerks, James H. Boyd, M. K. Keohokalole (Keyhole), James Aholo, Stephen Mahaulu, George C. Ross, Edward S. Boyd.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"CHIEFS OF BUREAUS, DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR (?).</p><P>"Surveyor-General, W. D. Alexander; Superintendent Public Works, W. E. Rowell; Superintendent Water Works, Andrew Brown; Inspector Electric Lights, John Cassidy; Registrar of Conveyances, T. G. Thrum; Deputy Registrar and Road Supervisor, Honolulu, W. H. Cummings; Chief Engineer Fire Department, F. Hustace; Superintendent Insane Asylum, Dr. A. McWayne.  Office, Government Building, King Street.</p><P>"BUREAU OF AGRICULTURE (?).</p><P>"President ex-officio, His Excellency (?) J. A. King, Minister of the Interior; Members: A. Jaeger, A. Herbert, and John Ena; Commissioner of Agriculture and ex-officio Secretary of the Board, Joseph Marsden.</p><P>"DEPARTMENT OF FINANCE (?).<ANCHOR ID="n27-3">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-3">Mr. Damon, the Minister, probably favors the free coinage of silver at the ratio of 8 to 1. instead of 16 to 1--(See pages 290 and 291.)</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>"Minister of Finance, His Excellency (?) S. M. Damon, ex-missionary; Auditor-General, George S. Ross; Registrar of Accounts, Geo. E. Smithies; Clerk of Finance Office, Carl Widemann; Collector General of Customs, J. B. Castle; Tax Assessor, Oahu, Jonathan Shaw; Deputy Assessor, W. C. Weedon; Postmaster-General, J. M. Oat.</p><P>"CUSTOMS BUREAU (?).</p><P>"Office, Custom House, Esplanade, Fort Street.  Collector-General, J. B. Castle; Deputy-Collector, F. B. McStocker; Harbormaster, Captain A. Fuller; Port Surveyer, M. N. Sanders; Storekeeper, Geo. Stratemeyer.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"DEPARTMENT OF ATTORNEY-GENERAL (?).</p><P>"Office in Government Building, King Street.  Attorney-General, W. O. Smith; Deputy Attorney-General, G. K. Wilder; Clerk, J. M. Kea; Marshal, E. G. Hitchcock; Deputy Marshal, Arthur M. Brown; Jailor, Oahu prison, Captain A. N. Tripp; Prison Physician, Dr. C. B. Cooper.</p><P>"BOARD OF IMMIGRATION (?).</p><P>"Office, Department of Interior, Government Building, King Street.  President, His Excellency (?) J. A. King; Members of the Board of Immigration, Hon. J. B. Atherton, Jas. B. Castle, James G. Spencer, Mark P. Robinson; Secretary, Wray Taylor.</p><P>"BOARD OF HEALTH (?).</p><P>"Office in grounds of Government Building, corner of Mililani and Queen Streets.  Members: Dr. Day, Dr. Miner, Dr. Andrews, J. O. Carter, J. T. Waterhouse, Jr., John Ena, and Attorney-General Smith.  President, `Hon.' W. O. Smith; Secretary, Chas. Wilcox; Executive Officer, C. B. Reynolds; J. D. McVeigh, Agent Board of Health; Inspector and Manager of Garbage Service, L. L. La Pierre; Inspector, G. W. C. Jones; Port Physician, Dr. Trousseau; Dispensary, Dr. H. McGrew; Leper Settlement, Dr. R. K. Oliver.</p><P>"BOARD OF EDUCATION (?).</p><P>"Office, Government Building, King Street.  President, `Hon.' C. R. Bishop; Secretary, W. James Smith; Inspector of Schools, A. T. Atkinson.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"BOARD OF CROWN LAND COMMISSIONERS (?).</p><P>"J. A. King, Minister of the Interior; W. O. Smith, Attorney-General, and C. P. Iaukea.  Office in Judiciary Building."</p><P>The above lists are all copied from the so-called official directory of the Hawaiian Government.</p><P>That Dole, Damon, and many others of the little <illus entity="a108-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Mr. David K. Dowsett of Honolulu, God-son of the late King, Kalakaua.</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:oligarchy are arch-traitors, is proved by the fact that they had been favored by the legitimate government all along.  Posing as Christian missionaries they had amassed fortunes in business, Dole having become judge of the Supreme Court.</p><P>Seeing that Queen Liliokalani had become disgusted with their mercenary hypocrisy, and fearing that she would weed out the corruptionists and put honest men in office, these sweet-scented missionaries revolted.</p><P>Assisted by United States Minister Stevens, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:man-of-war <HI REND="italics">Boston</HI>
108.sgm:, the missionaries soon vanquished the queen's army,--fifteen Kanaka soldiers,--and established themselves in her house.</p><P>The total population of the entire group of islands is about seventy-five thousand, or less than one-twentieth that of New York city alone.  Of this number there are probably two thousand so-called Americans, including haberdashers, grocers, quacks, shysters, saloon-keepers, gamblers, renegade missionaries, bums, and loafers.  The fact that this handful of mercenary wretches succeeded in attracting the attention of the entire American nation goes to show that President Cleveland's political enemies took up the case of the missionaries merely because it afforded an excuse for raising a row.</p><P>In speaking of the hypocrisy of the missionary usurpers it would be impossible to exaggerate it.  When the old queen discovered their rascality and talked about replacing them with honest citizens, the holy missionaries accused her of trying to revive cannibalism.</p><P>The biggest mistake made by President Cleveland in the whole affair was in not ordering Admiral Skerrett to put the old queen back in her office.</p><P>Had Admiral Skerrett been so instructed by the president he would have erased this vile stain from the American flag.</p><P>He would have undone the wrong, and given the world the truth, if it had killed every Methodist missionary hypocrite in Honolulu.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>ON the 19th of September, 1893, I took passage on the steamship <HI REND="italics">China</HI>
108.sgm:, at Honolulu, and went out to Japan, where I remained until Christmas.</p><P>Apropos of this visit to Japan, I must not forget to mention the "American" Legation at Tokio.</p><P>The representative of the United States at the court of the Mikado is a politician named Edwin Dun, whose proper sphere in life is evidently among the class generally found "hanging around" the beer saloons of New York and San Francisco aldermen and supervisors.</p><P>Just how this man got the appointment of United States minister seems to be a profound mystery to everyone except Mr. Cleveland and Mr. Thurman, who is said to be Dun's uncle or cousin or some near relation.</p><P>From time to time Mr. James Creelman and other war correspondents have thrown out strong hints that President Cleveland should send some reputable American citizen out there to fill Dun's place.</p><P>Numerous complaints about Dun's methods of "running the legation" have been sent to Washington City by Americans visiting Japan, but owing to some mysterious reason, no notice seems to have been taken of the facts which have been reported.</p><P>That the Japanese Government has not requested Dun's recall is probably due to the fact that Japan was involved in trouble with Russia when Dun was sent out there, and the Mikado did not care to strain Japan's friendly relations with the United States by asking for a decent minister.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Then the war with China came on, and Minister Dun was permitted to remain as a necessary evil, to preserve peace with Cleveland.</p><P>The better elements of Japanese society look upon Dun as a person of low degree.</p><P>Judge Krizuka of the Supreme Court told me that he <illus entity="a108-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Hon. H. Takeda, M.P. A Japanese Gentleman.</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:did not consider Dun a fit person to invite into his house.  Hon. H. Takeda and M. Kobiashi, two Japanese gentlemen, corroborated the judge's remarks, and declared that Dun was the last person who should have been sent to Japan as minister.</p><P>It is a well-known fact that he is "married" to a Japanese woman.<ANCHOR ID="n28-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm: Owing to this, he is not held in any higher esteem by decent society out there than any man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:who is known to have married his mistress is held over here.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-1">Those so-called marriages between white men and Japanese women are unholy affairs, amounting to little more than verbal contracts made for the convenience of the men during their stay in Japan.  The men live with the women and pay them so much a month.  Their offspring, if they have any, are poor mongrels and good for nothing.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>Besides this, Dun is a heavy drinker, which naturally renders him unfit to occupy a gentleman's position.  At times he is uncivil to ladies and arrogant to gentlemen.  He is what I consider a coarse, vulgar man.</p><P>Dun's Secretary of Legation, Joseph R. Herod, is about as pitiable a specimen of the typical Anglomaniac ass as I have ever had the misfortune to meet.</p><P>It seems very strange that President Cleveland cannot find two gentlemen to send out to Japan to represent the United States.</p><P>The idea that any vulgar upstart is good enough to send out there is absurd.</p><P>Gambler E. V. Thorne and his disreputable associates have an <HI REND="italics">open sesame</HI>
108.sgm: to Dun's Legation, and they probably assist in "running it."</p><P>Thorne's little <HI REND="italics">Box of Curios</HI>
108.sgm: is the only alleged American paper published out there, and such "Americans" as Dun and Herod use the filthy little sheet to defend themselves in.  It also comes in handy for purposes of maligning anyone who dares to criticize their insolent manner toward American citizens who sometimes find it necessary, while traveling abroad, to call at the Legation for passports.</p><P>This sweet-scented representative of tenderloindom, Thorne, may be found around the Grand Hotel in Yokohama almost any night, swindling unsuspecting tourists and others out of any and every thing that he can get, from the price of one of his lottery tickets on up.  Thorne and Conan attempted to beat the author of this book out of some money, and failing, tried blackmail, which also failed.  S. G. Murphy, a San Francisco banker of savory reputation,--especially among widows <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. W. C. PARKE, OF HONOLULU, AND THE AUTHOR, IN JAPAN.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:who deposit their incomes at the First National,--pretended to believe the flimsy and utterly false stories of the Yokohama "fruit-pickers," and corroborated their tales just to get his name into the papers, and finally denied having done so when I sent Mr. Von Lenthe to him to explain the law of libel.</p><P>The following note from the young attorney, who is well known, is self explanatory:</p><P>14 SANSOME STREET,</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, June 9, 1894.</p><P>MR. W. H. CHAMBLISS,</p><P>PALACE HOTEL, CITY.</p><P>DEAR SIR: I have called upon Mr. Murphy, and he denies <HI REND="italics">in toto</HI>
108.sgm: the statement he is said to have made to Mr. F. E. Hunt of the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
108.sgm:.  He was very nervous, however, and I am inclined to think he was telling untruths.  Trusting that his denial will satisfy you, I remain,</p><P>Faithfully yours,</p><P>OTHO VON LENTHE,</p><P>Attorney and Counselor at Law.</p><P>I wish to warn the public against this Yokohama nest of gamblers.  They are E. V. Thorne, "Fatty" Williams, E. L. Conan, and "Mermaid," or Hog Davis, who keeps a gambling house up on "The Bluff."  They form a combination out there that rivals the Lawrence House carpet-baggers of Jackson, Miss., and the 905 Sutter Street "fruit-pickers" of San Francisco.  A word of this kind is sufficient.  Therefore, the reader will bear in mind to steer clear of these loathsome wretches.</p><P>Incidentally, any American citizen who recognizes Dun and Herod outside of the Legation does so at the risk of his own reputation.</p><P>In January, 1894, I returned from Japan, and in March, April, and May I made a trip through the North, East, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:and South, from which latter delightful trip I returned less than a month ago.</p><P>At the present time (June 22, 1894) the sky of my future prospects, which looked so dark and gloomy two years and a half ago, is brightening up.  The sun has broken through at last, and I am getting the benefit of his light; the black clouds are disappearing and the horizon is almost clear.</p><P>I can say truthfully that the future looks brighter than it ever looked before.  In other words, things in general have taken a turn in my favor.  I have more friends now than I ever had before, and I appreciate them as no man ever did appreciate his friends.  Reading over the pages of my diary, I find many things in my own hand-writing which amuse me.  Having inherited an unselfish disposition from my parents, I never could enjoy anything by myself.  Therefore, since the road is clear, I will let my friends have the benefit of my experiences, that they may profit by my losses.</p><P>For many years I have been taking notes of the peculiarities of various classes of society.  These notes I have kept in the form of a diary with dates, and names of persons and places carefully recorded.</p><P>For some time past my friends in different parts of the world have been advising me to publish the Diary in book form.  There is so much of it that it would be impossible to get it all into one book, so I have decided for the present to publish the part that relates to the Parvenucracy.</p><P>New York, May 22, 1895:</p><P>If any of my friends imagine that it is an easy thing to write, revise, edit, correct, and illustrate a book in San Francisco, they would do well to disabuse their minds of that impression before starting out in the literary line.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>If anyone imagines that it is easy to get the truth published about the alleged society,--the Parvenucracy which has brought so much disgrace upon fair California,--he makes a big mistake.</p><P>If any ambitious author imagines that he can trust to the honor and honesty of San Francisco engravers and printers whom he has paid liberally in advance for their services, I wish to inform him that he is making a fatal error, unless he has some perseverance and capital.</p><P>For the enlightenment of all who may wish to know why I made the above statements I will give a brief sketch of my own experience during the past four months, in endeavoring to get this book with its illustrations before the public.</p><P>After the announcement in the <HI REND="italics">News Letter</HI>
108.sgm:, and the subsequent publication of a few dozen columns of extracts in the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
108.sgm:, nearly every newspaper on the entire Pacific Coast, as well as in San Francisco, mentioned the fact that the book was soon to be published.  The <HI REND="italics">Wasp</HI>
108.sgm: published some spicy cartoons on the subject, and the Eastern and Southern papers took it up and informed the world that the history of parvenu society, including that of San Francisco, was about to be published in book form, and that the book would be profusely illustrated.</p><P>Letters and bids from publishers, printers, artists, and engravers began to come in from all sides.  Many Eastern publishers sent in their bids.  Considering the fact that California is my favorite State, and that it is for the improvement of Pacific Coast society that I am publishing the facts, experiences, and honest opinions herein set forth, I decided to have everything in connection with the illustrating and publishing done right in California.</p><P>To Miss Laura E. Foster of Alameda, the talented young artist whose name I have placed on the title page, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:I gave the contract for the painting of the pictures and the drawing of the sketches.</p><P>I wish to say that Miss Foster performed her work with entire satisfaction to me in every particular.</p><P>To George O. Watkins, manager of the Union Photo-Engraving Co., of San Francisco, who called on me in person and solicited the work of engraving, I gave the contract for the making of the cuts, photo-engravings, and half-tones to print the pictures with.</p><P>Mr. Watkins and the Union Photo-Engraving Company proved themselves to be dishonest, dishonorable, and totally unworthy of confidence, credit, or trust.</p><P>They took my pictures to their work-shop, photographed them, made the cuts all ready for printing, accepted my coin in payment for same, and then refused to give me the cuts.</p><P>As if this were not enough to shame the lowest thief in San Quentin, this set of ineffable knaves refused point-blank to even deliver to me my original pictures, drawings, and paintings, that I might take the same to an honest engraving company and have other cuts made from them.  Incidentally they kept my money, and would not return that until Judge Slack of the Superior Court advised them in open court to compromise the case with my attorneys.  Here is the receipt in their own handwriting, showing that they had the money as well as the pictures.</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., Sept. 24, 1894.</p><P>Received from W. H. Chambliss fifty dollars ($50) on account.</p><P>(Signed)<HSEP>UNION PHOTO-ENGRAVING CO.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Per</HI>
108.sgm: SAGE.</p><P>During the discussion between the knaves and myself over their refusal to give up my property, one of the knaves lost his temper and told me that the firm of H. S.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CROCKER CROWD TRYING TO SUPPRESS THE PICTURES IN CHAMBLISS' DIARY.<LB>"Failing to scare the author, they go with their lackeys and frighten the dishonest engraving company into holding the cuts for a consideration."</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:Crocker &amp; Co. had threatened to withdraw its trade from the said knaves if they delivered the pictures.  It appears that some of the pictures looked too much like certain vulgar snobs, ex-bootblacks, and other impostors who pose on their "gall"; and those, headed by the Crocker crowd, tried to suppress the pictures.  Failing to scare the author, they went with their little lackeys and frightened the dishonest engraving company into holding the cuts for a consideration.</p><P>Of course I brought suit against the engraving company for the return of my property, and damages enough to pay for the annoyance, additional expense, and loss of time that their dishonorable work caused me.  Foreseeing that it would be a long time before I could get my property from the Union Photo-Engraving Co., I got Miss Foster to duplicate all the original drawings, and then had part of the cuts made by the San Francisco Engraving Co., and the rest by the <HI REND="italics">Illustrated American</HI>
108.sgm: Publishing Co., New York.  These companies acted honorably with me, and took no notice of the upstarts who were trying to suppress the work.</p><P>To Walter N. Brunt, a supposed reliable San Francisco printer, I had given the contract for the printing and binding.</p><P>Mr. Brunt turned out to be as unreliable and cowardly as the Union Photo-Engraving Co.</p><P>Having paid Mr. Brunt the full amount in advance for the printing of the first addition, I did not anticipate any breach of contract with him, until the book was almost ready to go to press.  When I had succeeded in getting the cuts made by the reliable engravers mentioned above, Mr. Brunt refused to complete his contract for the printing, unless I would expunge all reference to the Crocker, Huntington, S.P. Railroad faction of the Parvenucracy.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>Of course I refused to modify the text of the book, because I felt that it was my duty to the honest citizens of California and elsewhere to give them the truth about that particular crowd.</p><P>Seeing that Mr. Brunt had been bought off by the Parvenucracy, I went to several other printers, and to my surprise found that the entire printing industry of San Francisco was practically controlled by the very frauds that I am exposing.</p><P>No one doubted a word that I have in the book, but all the printing firms were afraid of losing the patronage of the Parvenucracy if they printed the truth about the rottenness of its so-called society.</p><P>Determined not to be outdone by the enemies of decent society, I took the train for New York in quest of an honest printing house.</p><P>This book being devoted to the subject of <HI REND="italics">society as it really is</HI>
108.sgm:, and being intended to open the eyes of all good citizens to the necessity of using great care lest they be imposed upon and injured by certain animals and fiends in human form, that I have mentioned, I, of course, could not think of asking any of my friends to share the responsibility of the plain English that I use.  I have been threatened with personal violence by the "fruit-pickers" for breaking up their gambling house, but that does not disturb me a little bit.</p><P>The S.P. Railroad Company and its constituency, which form the nucleus of the Parvenucracy, have threatened me with all kinds of punishment for declaring that they are vulgar upstarts.  But that is an old game of theirs which doesn't work with the author of this book.</p><P>It is the author's intention to write another book, later on, in which no harsh language will be used.  Snobs, upstarts, vulgar pretenders, and all classes of Parvenucracy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:will be treated with the silent contempt that they deserve in a publication descriptive entirely of good form.  The author extends a general invitation to his friends, as well as to all others who are in favor of improving society at large, to send him a few lines now and then on <HI REND="italics">what really is good form</HI>
108.sgm:.  It is good form for any reputable citizen to call upon an author, even if he does not know him, if he wishes to impart any valuable information.  That the author appreciates all verbal or written information, is shown by the confidential manner in which a few thousand letters and all previous calls of this kind have been treated.</p><P>Society in any new city or community can always stand a little improvement.  We will take San Francisco, for instance.  It has been asserted that there is no society there at all, and no less a personage than Mrs. Charles Webb Howard made the assertion.  She never made a greater mistake in her life.  Perhaps Mrs. Howard wanted to convey the idea that there is no good society in San Francisco, and probably she was correct so far as her personal knowledge and the doings of her own personal acquaintances were concerned.  But they are not everybody.</p><P>Mr. Greenway declared that there were only 400 persons in San Francisco who were fit to go into good society, and not one of the other 299,600 persons in the city ever took the trouble to ask him who the chosen 400 were, for everyone knew that he meant the Huntington, Crocker, Fair, Mackay, Sharon, O'Brien, Flood, de Young <HI REND="italics">clique</HI>
108.sgm: of S.P. Railroad Royalty, which holds that a man who has not at least one mistress is not eligible to society.</p><P>Although Mr. Greenway was 400 heads nearer to the truth than Mrs. Howard, the 400 that he had reference <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:to were the identical persons at whom Mrs. Howard pointed her dart.</p><P>Had Mrs. Howard said what she meant, she would have been applauded, instead of laughed at, by all the other 299,600.</p><P>The leading society questions of the day are:  <HI REND="italics">Who is fit for society</HI>
108.sgm:? and <HI REND="italics">Who is not</HI>
108.sgm:?</p><P>In a general way these questions may be answered with the true statement that all persons are fit for some kinds of society.  There is a vast river between the highest and the lowest circles.  This river is large enough to float every living human being who comes within the radius of any circle of society, except the extreme very lowest, viz.:  <HI REND="italics">those who have been born outside of the bonds of wedlock</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>Like a dead fish swept through the <HI REND="italics">crevasse</HI>
108.sgm: on the other side of the great river opposite to the high, rocky hills on which stands the child of honor, the illegitimate heir should be banished from the society of all mankind,--except the promoters of his existence,--who should be swept through the yawning gap, to remain and keep company with the result of their unnatural work, until the vultures shall have claimed their own, and relieved this beautiful world of the disgrace and the blot that has been perpetrated upon civilization.</p><P>Members of other circles are not safe while the tainted promoters of the lowest order are permitted to run at large and unrebuked.</p><P>Anyone is liable to contract a disease that is contagious.  Almost anyone is liable to be swept through the break in the <HI REND="italics">levee</HI>
108.sgm: in company with the offender; but no one should ever be permitted to paddle over in the direction of the safe side after he has once been thrown out of the main stream with the refuse and <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
108.sgm: for such a crime against society and decency.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The male portion of mankind is to blame for all of those stains and illegitimate blots on the face of society</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>Any man who attributes it to "woman's weakness" is a coward and a falsifier, and unworthy of notice.</p><P>Man, being the stronger of the two sexes, and knowing it, is the chief cause of all the shame to which the weaker sex has ever had to submit.  Take any so-called <HI REND="italics">massage</HI>
108.sgm: artist, or any other bad woman, and trace back her history, and it will be found that her downfall was caused by some unfaithful lover, drunken, brutal husband, tyranical father, or some unnatural old hag who was herself the result of man's perfidy.</p><P>Now, we will look into a few facts and figures and think up a plan for the improvement of the circles, between the highest and the lowest.  The former is all right and the latter is beyond redemption; but the other circles are made of good material.</p><P>A few remarks might do more good than the average person would ordinarily suppose.</p><P>Let us take common sense as a foundation.</p><P>Say that San Francisco has a total population of 300,000 persons.</p><P>If we could gather together all the murderers, robbers, burglars, thieves, pickpockets, sheenies, professional gamblers, fruit-pickers, bunko-steerers, bums, tramps, toughs, hoodlums, common drunks, quacks, shysters, saloon-keepers, massage artists, fake society reporters, Chinese, Indians, niggers, mulattoes, octoroons, anarchists, street-corner orators, political bosses, dishonest officer-holders, ballot-box stuffers, and all other objectionable pests in the city, they would amount to about 100,000 two-legged animals resembling in outward appearances human beings.</p><P>Substract this 100,000 from the total population, export <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:the vile mass of corruption to Hawaii, and we will have a beautiful city with a legitimate population of 200,000 respectable citizens eligible to admission into the homes of each other on a basis of comparative equality and sociability.</p><P>Careful intelligent observations show conclusively that the same rule would be applicable to almost all cities where liquor is sold by the drink, if you base your estimate on a <HI REND="italics">pro rata</HI>
108.sgm: of population.</p><P>Mr. J. Waldere Kirk of New York, a friend of the author, asks the following questions:</p><P>"What are your remaining 200,000 peaceable citizens going to do with the late 400 members of the self-styled only polite society?"</p><P>Nothing at all, friend Kirk.  It was found that when the water ran to its proper level the little "400" were absorbed in the 100,000 who got exported.  The last one found his proper sphere under the head of classified pests.</p><P>"What became of the navy and army?"</p><P>Oh, the navy is all right.  As I told you before, the navy people are gentlemen as a rule.  The shipping committee created a few vacancies: Captain Gridley, "Bucko"  Elliott, "Missionary" Wadham, "Hoofenskoofen,"  "Humpty Dumpty,"  Quack-Nut Ruhm, Heatherington, Dellyhanty, "Shorty" Evins, O'Brien, Fool Rogers, Henry Hudson, and a few other "spare articles," the loss of which is a great help to the social standing of the service.</p><P>With reference to the army, I am afraid that the division stationed at the Presidio will have to be recruited again before it will be visible to the naked eye.</p><P>The officers would mix up with the Parvenucracy of Pacific Heights and Pacific Union Poker Club and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. JAMES WALDERE KIRK,<LB>The King of Swell Dressers.<LB>"A real gentleman never forgets that proper behavior and courtesy always add to the appearance of faultless attire."--Kirk.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:the bum Bohemians, where they became thoroughly demoralized.  But the navy boys had better sense.</p><P>The unmistakable genuineness of the storm-beaten veterans of the maritime division of our fighting forces, when placed side by side with the pitiful conceit of the brass-bound figureheads who appealed to the public to decide which arm a colonel should carry his overcoat on when he went calling, presented such a contrast that the deporting committee took charge of everything at the Presidio except the ordnance stores.</p><P>A certain Presidio officer in uniform at a respectable social gathering reminds one of a professional peacock procured to pose as a plaything for pretty little girls.  And I don't mean "General" Graham, Lieutenant Davis, or Lieutenant Winston, either.</p><P>If the story that this officer receives a good deal of attention from females is true, it can be readily accounted for by the fact that <HI REND="italics">"new" women</HI>
108.sgm: are not as particular about how they bestow their affections as <HI REND="italics">ladies</HI>
108.sgm: are.</p><P>No one has a higher regard for female virtue than the mariners, and the reverse is true of some "soldiers," who appear to have a penchant for the wives of sailors, especially bleached blondes who live in hotels.</p><P>The mariner's respect for woman is based on the fact that she is all that he has to look forward to upon his return to port.</p><P>The soldier, whose life in times of peace and prosperity is spent in strutting around to the music of a brass band, to be admired by little girls and guyed by small boys, for which he vents his spleen on all who are so unfortunate as to be subject to his orders, is the very worst enemy to the peace and happiness of the absent sailor.</p><P>Ladies, don't be deceived by the uniformed "heroes" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:whose smell of powder has been derived from the puffs that painted females use to embellish their wrinkled complexions with.</p><P>The Wounded Knee affair was an eye-opener for women who confided in those pretty birds.</p><P>"How about S. G. Murphy, President of First Irishonal Bank?" asks Mr. Clark Traphagan.<ANCHOR ID="n28-2">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-2">I met Mr. Traphagen first at Monterey, Cal., in January, 1892.  In May, 1895, I had the pleasure of renewing his acquaintance, and visiting him at his home in Fordham, New York.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>Oh! he got shipped off with the first lot.  You see he undertook to show that it was good form to invite a citizen to draw his money out of the "Sheeny Bank" and put it into the First Irishonal.  He afterward failed to keep an agreement to notify the citizen of the arrival of a draft for one hundred dollars that was in dispute.  During his spiteful efforts to discredit the citizen by misrepresenting him to newspaper reporters, the banker appropriated to his own use about eight thousand dollars of Mrs. Colton's money that was on deposit at the bank.  He never was in the "Four Hundred," but of course the dumping committee took charge of that fellow.</p><P>"How about W. B. Cooke?"</p><P>Well, he didn't belong to the "Four Hundred," either, but he went with the classified fake society reporters and hangers-on, who hang around the saloons all the time.  You see he held that it was good form to go to a dinner party in an intoxicated condition, and take his six foot five inch shadow, G. S. Mearns, along with him, when Mearns, who was also drunk, was not invited.  The dumping gang scooped those two in along with Nosegrave, Hume, Bartlett, and a whole lot of other scavengers of that ilk.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>"Thank Heaven for that!" says Mr. Traphagen.</p><P>"Now tell us something about the 200,000 remaining citizens."</p><P>Certainly, with pleasure: they are all right, and as soon as they realize that they are entirely free from the daily annoyances of the 100,000 public nuisances they will be very happy.</p><P>Now we will get down to a common sense basis and speak of San Francisco's real social system as an example that older cities might do well to follow, up to date.  Supposing the 100,000 public nuisances to have been duly exported, there certainly must be among the 200,000 law-abiding citizens at least 25,000 young people who are fond of dancing.  In order that all of those young ladies and gentlemen may go to parties, and dance and have a good time once in a while, there should be 100 regularly organized clubs of 250 members each.  Each member of each club should know and feel that he or she is just as good as any person in any of the other 99 clubs, and not one bit better.  This feeling of patriotism should be thoroughly understood by all, but at the same time, it should not be flaunted too promiscuously.  There should be no jealousy or rivalry, but on the contrary, all the clubs should harmonize.</p><P>It would be the easiest thing in the world for those 25,000 young persons to organize themselves into 100 clubs.  There are several nice dancing clubs in San Francisco already.  For examples, permit me to mention the <HI REND="italics">Entre Nous</HI>
108.sgm: (pronounced ahn-tray-noo) Cotillion; The Assembly Club; The Cotillion Club; The Club 400, and a new organization conducted under the cheerful name of "The Progressive Club."  Then there is a new club just called the "Dancing Club," which I hear is a nice, quiet organization.  It meets at the Palace Hotel.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX.</HEAD>
108.sgm:<P>CONCERNING the <HI REND="italics">personnel</HI>
108.sgm: of San Francisco's polite organizations, the <HI REND="italics">Entre Nous</HI>
108.sgm: Cotillion is conducted on a basis which has for its chief object the mutual pleasure and improvement of its members.  It is, practically speaking, an up-to-date cotillion club.</p><P>That this club values its private individuality and family sociability more than it does the flattering praises of journalistic and literary admirers, is shown by the names of its members, who are of the good old reliable home-loving class which favors the advancement of real respectability, the foundation of polite society.</p><P>The following is a list of the <HI REND="italics">Entre Nous'</HI>
108.sgm: members:</p><P>Miss Alice M. Butler,<LB>Miss Grace E. Bertz,<LB><LB>Miss Sarah E. Boyle,<LB>Miss Clara Byington,<LB>Miss Kate L. Byington,<LB>Miss Sarah Bluxome,<LB>Miss E. E. Cudworth,<LB>Miss Mabelle Gilman,<LB>Miss Nelye J. Giusti,<LB>Miss Sadie E. Gould,<LB>Miss Charlotte Gruenhagen,<LB>Miss Albertia Gruenhagen,<LB>Miss Emilie Herzer, <LB>Miss Beatrice E. Hughes,<LB>Miss Mae Hoesch,<LB>Miss Marie Ibarra,<LB>Miss Josephine E. Jourden,<LB>Miss Elena King,<LB>  Miss Ala Keenan,<LB>  Miss Kate Kerrigan,<LB>Mrs. Geo. F. Kincaid,<LB>Miss Cassie Lampe,<LB>Miss Jessie B. Lyon,<LB>Miss Minnie Ludlow,<LB>Miss Lotta Musto,<LB>Miss Nella McCormick,<LB>  Miss Mattie McCormick,<LB>Miss Julia Nevella,<LB> Mrs. Geo. S. Nevin,<LB>Miss Edna O'Brien,<LB>Miss Nancy Place,<LB>Miss Lida Platt,</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE TRUTH ABOUT AMERICAN BEAUTY.<LB>Representative types of home-loving native daughters of three distinct social centers.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:<P>Mrs. Frank L. Platt,<LB>Miss Maude Rice,<LB>Miss Camilla Redmond,<LB><LB>Miss Marie Sabatie,<LB>Miss Kate L. Stanton,<LB>Mrs. M. M. Stewart,<LB>Miss Amy Teresi,<LB>Miss Goldie Tobelmann,<LB>Miss Jessie Taggart,<LB>Miss Emma Umbsen,<LB>Miss Eva Worth,<LB>Miss Aimee Woodworth,<LB>Miss Dollie Whelan,<LB>Miss Leah S. Young.</p><P>THE GENTLEMEN MEMBERS ARE:<LB>Alexander, Wallace,<LB>Adams, George W.,<LB>Anthes, Frank F.,<LB>Austin, Lynn,<LB>Bigelow, J. Edward,<LB>Byington, Lewis F.,<LB>Burns, Dr. John B.,<LB>Bryant, Dr. E. R.,<LB>Carrera, Edward G.,<LB>Clement, Dr. Herbert,<LB>Desmond, John H.,<LB>Frazer, Dr. T. J.,<LB>Fyfe, Ormiston B.,<LB>Graham, George D.,<LB>Gantner, J. Oscar,<LB>Herzer, Herman H.,<LB>Haight, Robert F.,<LB>Hoag, O. H., Jr.,<LB>Kase, Thomas K.,<LB>Kerrigan, Frank H.,<LB><LB>Kelly, William,<LB>Kincaid, George F.,<LB>Lawton, Dr. Wm. P.,<LB>Lovey, Louis W.,<LB>Lyon, Walter S.,<LB>Ludlow, James T.,<LB>Lee, Eugene,<LB>Mau, Arther H.,<LB>Musto, Clarence,<LB>Meussdorffer, Arthur H.,<LB>Nunan, Robert G.,<LB>Naylor, Arthur D.,<LB>Nevin, George S.,<LB>Nougues, Chas. J.,<LB>Peters, Fred W.,<LB>Phillips, L. Ernest,<LB>Pixley, Will I.,<LB>Platt, Dr. Frank L.,<LB>Parks, Fred H.,<LB>Robbins, James C.,<LB>Roussy, Gaston,<LB>Rigg, George A.,<LB>Ross, T. Patterson,<LB>Saxe, Harry A.,<LB>Spalding, Chas. W.,<LB>Umbsen, Henry P.,<LB>Vogel, Edward J.,<LB>Woolsey, Dr. Mark H.,<LB>Wise, Dave W.,<LB>Whitley, Henry A.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<P>The directors are Mr. Sanford G. Lewald, Mr. Robert F. Haight, Mr. Charles W. Spalding, and Mr. O. B. Fyfe.  To these young gentleman the club is largely indebted for its distinction of being the best organized cotillion in California.</p><P>The club which gives parties under the name of "The N.S.L.K. 10," is composed of active members of the <HI REND="italics">Entre Nous</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>The Assembly Club differs from the <HI REND="italics">Entre Nous</HI>
108.sgm: cotillion in that its membership is limited exclusively to the male sex.  The gentlemen argue that this allows them the privilege of taking as many ladies to the dances as they can provide carriage accommodations and partners for; and it also facilitates the bringing out of <HI REND="italics">de&acute;butantes</HI>
108.sgm:, who were quite numerous at their last two functions which I had the pleasure of attending in the winter of '95.</p><P>The Assembly Club is composed of the following gentlemen:</p><P>EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE.</p><P>Mr. D. B. Crane, Mr. E. D. Conolley, Mr. E. C. Denigan, Mr. C. C. Moore, Mr. H. W. Spalding.</p><P>MEMBERS.</p><P>Bostwick, H. R.,<LB>Briggs, A. A.,<LB>Brown, J. A.,<LB>Castelazo, Arthur,<LB>Christie, J. A.,<LB>Conolley, E. D.,<LB>Cook, F. R.,<LB>Crane, D. B.,<LB>Day, H. L.,<LB>Denigan, E. C.,<LB>Elliot, W. E.,<LB>Greenlee, F. S.,<LB>Hecker, J. G.,<LB>Hoag, O. A., Jr.,<LB>Hockett, E.,<LB>Lang, A.,<LB>Martin, F. M.,<LB>Melrose, C. K.,<LB>Moore, C. C.,<LB>Newman, G. H.,</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. CHARLES EDWARD BLAIR,<LB>Of Pennsylvania.<LB>A type of the American Gentleman in private life.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:<P>Parsons, J. A.,<LB>Rigg, G. A.,<LB>Robinson, N. A.,<LB>Rue, H. R.,<LB>Runyon, F. W.,<LB>Schlingheyde, C. E.,<LB>Spalding, H. W.,<LB>Sprague, P. T.,<LB>Stevens, J. W.,<LB>Sturdivant, B. B.,<LB>Thornton, A. C.,<LB>Toepke, W. H.,<LB>Watters, T. C.,<LB>Willis, Edward.</p><P>The Club "400" was evidently christened under that name in a spirit of sarcastic humor, for there is nothing about the membership to indicate any symptoms of the pitiable, bombastic ludicrousness which is so abundant in another so-called "four hundred" in which social standing is based on the pay-as-you-enter system.</p><P>The directors of the common sense Club "400" are: O. A. Harker, V. E. Matthews, J. Proctor Whitney, C. L. Mitchell, Lancelot H. Smith, E. P. Hulme, and C. E. L. Hildebrecht.</p><P>The Cotillion Club, which gave the Charity Ball at the Palace Hotel in January, 1895, was organized by Dr. J. F. Twist, assisted by Mr. B. Frank Priest and Dr. H. B. Soltan.  These gentlemen deserve great credit for the manner in which they work to get up cotillions merely to facilitate the innocent pleasure that young ladies and gentlemen find in well conducted dancing parties.</p><P>Who says that such parties are not beneficial to polite society echoes sentiments which savor strongly of ignorance, jealousy, vindictiveness, or fanaticism, or all.</p><P>Preachers who denounce dancing and the little innocent amusement that it affords are just as much in error as infidels who denounce Christianity.</p><P>Those who took active parts in the arrangements of the cotillions of this club last winter were: Dr. J. F. Twist, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:Mr. Eugene A. Mantell, Mr. B. Frank Priest, Dr. H. B. Soltan, Mr. W. E. Jackson, Mr. J. A. Christie, Mr. Will E. Fisher, Mr. J. T. Ludlow, Dr. R. L. Sutherland, Mr. J. C. Bateman, Mr. M. C. Bateman, Dr. G. S. Backman, Mr. C. T. Ryland, Jr., Lieutenant Frank A. Brooks, Lieutenant T. S. Phelps, Jr., Mr. E. N. Atwood, Mr. Charles W. Spalding, Mr. J. S. Hawkins, Mr. Charles Hilton, Mr. W. T. Baggett, Dr. T. A. Rotanzi, Mr. Frank E. Wobb, Mr. H. B. Holmgren, Dr. W. P. Agnews, Hon. H. E. Highton, Mr. J. Shucking.</p><P>That the above mentioned gentlemen and all the rest of the club are far above anything like petty, social jealousy is shown by the fact that they extend invitations to the leading members of all the respectable cotillion clubs in the city to participate in their functions.</p><P>That this newly aroused sentiment of sociability is appreciated is shown by the fact that there were more dances last winter participated in by representatives of all the different clubs--which are clubs at all--than ever before known in the city.</p><P>This is the true spirit.  All the nice clubs should always be on friendly terms.  When honored citizens such as the president, or the great admirals or generals, visit you, give them receptions that they should remember as a credit to the social system of the city or community.</p><P>One feature of the dancing party which is growing more and more conspicuous by its absence is the irrepressible fake society reporter.</p><P>The managers of cotillion parties have found it not only advisable, but necessary to the comfort and pleasure of dancers, to suppress those news scavengers, as Tom Flynn of the <HI REND="italics">Wasp</HI>
108.sgm: calls them.  They are not journalists at all, and it is the hope of all real journalists that the present generation will live to see the extermination of all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:such poor, puny, pitiable, persistent parasites as W. B. Cooke, J. O'Hara Nosegrave, Hugh Hume, Little Birdie Irving, Charlie Nosegrave, E. M. Greenway, and all of that worse than useless tribe of professional toadies.  Not one of those toadies is above receiving "tips" for special mentions.</p><P>There are some organizations which are rarely <illus entity="a108-0053" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>An Honest Lawyer.</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:mentioned in the "society columns" contributed to by the fakirs or scavenger reporters.  Among those may be mentioned the Western Addition Literary Club; the Native Sons of Vermont, and the various parlors of the Native Sons and Daughters of the Golden West.  Nearly all of those organizations give monthly dances or entertainments of some kind; often for charitable purposes, but never to assist in the facilitation of society column snobbery.  They leave that to the non-producing element--the Parvenucracy.</p><P>Then there are several little dancing clubs conducted on the fifty cent admission or "hat check" basis, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:devoted to the interests of good citizens who do not feel able to subscribe to the five or ten dollar cotillions.  Nevertheless, those dances seem to be enjoyed by their participants, even if they are less pretentious than the frequenters of Santa Cruz, San Jose&acute;, Del Monte, San Mateo, Castle Crags, and Coronado.</p><P>Because a person happens to be poor, that is no reason why he should be denied the privilege of dancing, provided he does not step all over people and bump into everybody, and walk on ladies' dresses.  There is no excuse for such conduct in a man who has social aspirations.  Such social impediments may be overcome at Mr. W. W. Anderson's dancing academy, and also at Mr. Lunt's.  Any man who wants to do right should be encouraged rather than abused.</p><P>And then again I see no reason why a man should be looked down upon by soulless society leaders simply because he did not marry a lady member of one of the cotillion clubs.</p><P>Everyone is not fortunate enough to get a belle of the <HI REND="italics">Entre Nous</HI>
108.sgm:, by any means, because there are not enough to go around.</p><P>What of it if a big millionaire member of the Parvenucracy <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
108.sgm: see fit to retain the unpretentious girl that he married before he got rich?  It is nobody's business but his own; and why is it that they always ridicule a fellow like that for marrying the only girl who would have him?  I mean Mr. Con. O'Connor.  I heard so many unkind remarks about this gentleman that I actually felt sorry for him, and went and looked up some references to defend him with.</p><P>I found that his enemies had a very strong case against him, and that they based their opinions on facts.  Although facts are hard to overcome, I propose to show <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0054" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. EUGENE A. MANTELL,<LB>The popular and talented young designer.<LB>One of the best-dressed real gentlemen in America.</p></CAPTION>
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108.sgm:by those very facts, which his enemies have been prodding him in the neck with, that he (Mr. O'Connor) is civilized, or at least that he <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
108.sgm: civilized when he got married.  Here is what Owen Meredith has to say on a similar subject:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"We may live without poetry, music, and art;<LB>We may live without conscience, and live without heart;<LB>We may live without friends, and live without books;<LB>But civilized man cannot live without cooks."</HI>
108.sgm:</p><P>I would advise all of those heartless creatures who criticise Mr. O'Connor's "domestic" affairs to paste a copy of the above in their hats, and leave the gentleman alone.  What would you have him do, anyway?  Would you have him eat his food raw?</p><P>You lucky rascals who marry stylish belles of the Assembly, the <HI REND="italics">Entre Nous</HI>
108.sgm:, the "400," or the Cotillion Club, should give Mr. O'Connor a chance to breathe, if nothing more.  In my social observations I have come to regard unjust criticisms of the kind bestowed upon Mr. O'Connor in the light of poisoning your house rats: You kill the rats, 'tis true, but you raise a deuced foul odor.</p><P>Concerning the very latest and most approved methods for organizing cotillion clubs, the most successful organizers are the least pretentious.  They say that it is no trouble at all to get up a subscription party or ball, provided you go about it properly.</p><P>Every young lady who goes into society at all must have some friends.</p><P>Almost any ten young ladies, assisted by ten young gentlemen to do the heavy work, can organize a club in any law-respecting community where they have any standing.  All that they have to do is simply to form their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:committees and circulate the report that a dancing club is being organized, and the members will come in fast enough if they are invited.  But you must not freeze them out by making the subscription too high.</p><P>High priced affairs are all right for the Parvenucracy: gamblers, saloon keepers, and railroad octopuses make their money easily, and can afford to pay their leader large commissions, but decent people cannot.</p><P>For further information on this subject consult any respectable cotillion leader who has sense enough to know that you can't get all the nice dancing people in a big city into one dance hall.</p><P>Good San Francisco authorities to consult are Mr. Eugene A. Mantell, Mr. Robert F. Haight, Mr. Sanford G. Lewald, Mr. Charles W. Spalding, Mr. James B. Stokes, Mr. Edward G. Carrera, Mr. James A. Christie, Mr. Harvy B. Holmgren, Mr. B. Frank Priest, and Mr. Hall McAllister, a nephew of the late Ward McAllister.</p><P>Apropos of Mr. Ward McAllister, I believe that he had the misfortune to have been misunderstood by the public at large.  In organizing his "Four Hundred" he evidently limited its membership to correspond with the dancing capacity of his favorite ballroom.</p><P>That he desired to set a good example for other ambitious leaders to follow was natural to a jolly good-natured man like Ward.  That the public declined to fall into his way of thinking was also quite natural, as well as proper.</p><P>The better elements of American society have never, since the year of 1776, approved of the extension of foreign aristocracy to these shores, and that which is still more encouraging to the descendants of the F.F.V.'s is that they never will.  But poor old Ward McAllister lived and danced his life away, clinging to the absurd idea that it was all right for such adventurers as Andre <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0055" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE HOODLUM SWELL AND SOCIAL DICTATOR.<LB>"He wears a black necktie, sticks a black handkerchief in his `vest,' blows a tin whistle, and his word is South-of-Market law as far down the road as Butchertown."-- <HI REND="italics">Tar Flat Free Dump</HI>
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108.sgm:Poniatowski, or Pony-of-whisky, to come over here and marry Parvenuesses for their dollars.</p><P>Mr. McAllister evidently believed that the infusion of foreign titled blood into the steam beer blood of California Parvenucracy would improve the latter.  Having lived out among those old saloon-keepers, Mr. McAllister was willing that almost any experiment that would tend to civilize their descendants should be tried.  But careful intelligent observations of the disastrous failures of these experiments, as shown by the Mackay-Collonna transaction, the Prentiss-Huntington-Hatsfeldt international disgrace, and the latest nauseating transactions between Miss Gould and Count de Castellaine, all go to strengthen the belief that when noble blood becomes so diluted as to sell itself for money taken in over the counters of grogshops and stock-boards, it has ceased to be noble at all.</p><P>All Americans desiring information on how to conduct a dancing club composed of the representative members of the saloon keeper, gambling house keeper, and sporty elements of society should call upon Mr. E. M. Greenway, who is also prepared to give advice on how to malign all social clubs in the city whose members refuse to acknowledge him as anything more than a fake society reporter.</p><P>When the defunct <HI REND="italics">Nos Ostros</HI>
108.sgm: Cotillion Club was in existence, Mr. Greenway used to refer to it as the <HI REND="italics">Nos Ass-tros</HI>
108.sgm: Club, just because Messrs. Frank E. Webb, Charlie Nosegrave, A. L. Dodge, and Harry Wilber belonged to it.  There is no reason why a man should hesitate about expressing his opinions of individuals, provided he is prepared to substantiate those opinions with facts as Mr. Greenway was, but it was very unkind of Ned to give a club such a name as that just in order to describe a few of its would-be leaders--like himself.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>392</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:<P>A few simple rules on arranging parties will, if observed, insure success and a good time:</p><P>Form your committees and get out your invitations on plain white paper.  Do not have any vulgar embossing on the invitation, but have it engraved in neat script.</p><P>Do not put anything about dress on the invitation unless it is a military affair, because every man fit to be invited to a dance ought to have sense enough to know that gentlemen always wear evening dress to dances.<ANCHOR ID="n29-1">*</ANCHOR>
108.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-1">In all parts of the civilized world except California, the term "Evening Dress" means "swallow-tailed" or "claw-hammer" coats for gentlemen.  Some San Francisco society leaders insist on saying "Full Dress," which is absurd.  That term applies only to the military, and to societies that wear military uniforms.</NOTE>
108.sgm:<P>Those who don't know that much are liable to be ignorant of other important rules of good form.</p><P>Ladies are always up to date in the matter of dress, and need no male advice on that subject further than a quiet gentle hint that it does not sound nicely to masculine ears to hear ladies criticising one another's gowns at cotillions or anywhere else.</p><P>One peculiar thing is that the most charming and the prettiest dressed ladies generally are made the victims and targets of the most cruel and uncalled-for insinuations of other ladies, who, by reason of the fact that they are permitted to sit and look on while the more fortunate ones dance, are enabled to adjust their green <HI REND="italics">lorgnettes</HI>
108.sgm: and look for imaginary defects, and, failing to find any, add more venom to their disappointed criticisms.</p><P>This is a failing that is particularly noticeable in females who are no longer attractive.</p><P>One well known example will serve as a description suitable for this class.  An extremely uncouth old woman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0056" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE HOODLUM SWELL AT A WASHINGTON STREET RECEPTION;<LB>or, The Ass in the Lion's Skin.<LB>"There ain't no salt ner pepper on this table, see?" said the South-of-Market swell of tin whistle "fame."</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>395</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:who keeps a "fashionable family boarding house" on Pine Street, almost under the shadow of the Hopkins Mansion, which is on the next street a little further up on Snob Hill, has a penchant for posing as a professional chaperon, in order to gain admission to functions where she is not wanted.</p><P>At a large naval reception that I attended at Mare Island, this ludicrous old creature "chaperoned" no less than four young ladies, who were guests at her boarding house.</p><P>Gentlemen were less abundant than ladies at this function, and the floor committee had its hands full trying to see that all the young ladies got some dances.</p><P>I saw a young naval lieutenant take one of his brother officers up to introduce him to this quartette, on whose invitation the professional "chaperon" had crept in, when, much to the young officer's astonishment, the fat old chaperon got up and took his arm, pretending to think that the introduction was intended for her.</p><P>The gentleman had a pretty hard time getting rid of his undesirable partner, who held on to him in order to tell him that a certain lady, who subsequently turned out to be his <HI REND="italics">fiance&acute;e</HI>
108.sgm:, was dressed like a servant girl.  The young man then took Mme.  Family Boarding House de Veller Blister back to her seat.  The four young ladies never got a dance during the evening for the reason that no one else would venture up for an introduction for fear of being victimized by the chaperon.</p><P>Mothers should be careful about how they trust their daughters out with professional chaperons, and especially those who are addicted to the habit of drinking and gambling, as the one in question was, and still is.</p><P>Here are some good forms for invitations, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>396</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:should never be sent to ineligible persons or professional society parasites, but should be addressed in such a way that only the invited guests may obtain admission on them:</p><P>The Admiral, the Captain and Officers of</p><P>the U.S.S.  <HI REND="italics">Mohican</HI>
108.sgm: request the pleasure of your company Aboard Ship,</p><P>Tuesday evening, January twenty-fourth,</p><P>at eight o'clock.</p><P>Another good form is:</p><P>The N.S.L.K. 10.</p><P>At Home,</p><P>Friday Evening, April 19, 1895,</p><P>at half past eight o'clock.</p><P>Beethoven Hall,</p><P>N.E. Cor. Post and Powell Streets.</p><P>Hotel Savoy Building.</p><P>Here is another:</p><P>The Cotillion Club requests the honor of </p><P><HI REND="italics">Governor and Mrs. James H. Budd's</HI>
108.sgm: company</p><P>at the Charity Ball,</p><P>in aid of the Children's Hospital Fund,</p><P>at the Palace Hotel, Monday Evening, January 7, 1895.</p><P>Please answer and present this invitation for admission cards to</p><P>the committee,</p><P>or at the office of the Palace Hotel.</p><P>If it is intended that invited guests may keep their invitations as souvenirs of the function, small cards, with the name of your club engraved thereon, should be enclosed with the engraved invitations.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0057" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE FEMALE "FRUIT-PICKER" AT THE ADMIRAL'S RECEPTION.<LB>"Much to the young officer's astonishment, the fat old chaperon got up and took his arm, pretending to think that the introduction was intended for her."-- <HI REND="italics">Mare Island Society News</HI>
108.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>399</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:<P>Here is a neat form for an admission card:</p><P>THE ASSEMBLY</p><P>Golden Gate Hall, 625 Sutter Street,</p><P>Tuesday Evening, December 20, 1894, 8:45.</p><P>Admit <HI REND="italics">Mr. L. Ernst Phillips</HI>
108.sgm: and Lady.</p><P>(Signed) <HI REND="italics">J. A. Christie</HI>
108.sgm:, Member.</p><P>Not transferable.</p><P>Here is another form for admission cards:</p><P>THE MONDAY EVENING CLUB.</p><P>Palace Hotel, Feb. 6, 1893, 8:30 to 12.</p><P>Admit <HI REND="italics">Lieutenant and Mrs. D. L. Wilson, U.S.N</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>Issued at the request of <HI REND="italics">L. E. Phillips</HI>
108.sgm:.</p><P>Please present at Reception Room door.</p><P>Students generally request your presence about as follows:</p><P>THE YOUNG MEN</p><P>OF</p><P>CHAMBERLAIN-HUNT ACADEMY</p><P>Request your presence at a Dance to be given at Odd Fellows' Hall, Port Gibson, Miss.,</p><P>Tuesday Evening, June 19th, 1894.</p><P>Enclosed with the above invitation was a little card which read, "Please present at the door."  Then there were enclosed two other little cards on which were written:</p><P>Compliments of Misses Jennie and Mary Kate Sevier.</p><P>Ten dances are quite enough to have between 8:30 and 12 o'clock.</p><P>Those should be arranged on a very plain white card with the name of your club or organization and date, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>400</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:where the affair is to be danced, on one side, and the list of dances on the other.  Such as the following:</p><NOTE>THE N.S.L.K. 10 LUNT'S HALL, <HI REND="italics">Tuesday Evening February 5, 1895</HI>
108.sgm:<P>ENGAGEMENTS.</p><P>1.  Waltz<HSEP>Miss Gould,</p><P>2.  Lancers<HSEP>Miss Wooll,</p><P>3.  Schottische<HSEP>Miss Loomis,</p><P>4.  Polka (5-step)<HSEP>Miss Teresi,</p><P>5.  Waltz<HSEP>Miss Fritchie,</p><P>6.  Deux Temps<HSEP>Miss Taylor,</p><P>7.  Schottische<HSEP>Miss McElroy,</p><P>8.  Polka<HSEP>Miss McEwen,</p><P>9.  Waltz<HSEP>Miss Gruenhagen,</p><P>10.  Spanish Waltz<HSEP>Miss Collison.</p><P>If the dance or entertainment is to be given in honor of someone, the name of the guest of honor should invariable be engraved on the invitations and the programmes as well.</p><P>Here is a form:</p><P>THE YOUNG MEN OF HARRISTON,</p><P>request the honor of the company of</p><P><HI REND="italics">Doctor and Mrs. J. W. Davenport</HI>
108.sgm:,</p><P>at a farewell dance to be given</p><P>in honor of Mrs. Robert L. Montgomery,</p><P>on Monday, May 7th, 1894, at 8:30 P.M.</p><P>Ladies reception room,</p><P>the Pioneer Hotel.</p><P>For a large naval reception that I attended, the invitation read:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
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108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0058" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>STRICTLY OUT OF HIS ELEMENT.<LB>Nat T. Coulson, "Dentist," distributing his business cards among the ladies at a Palace Hotel dance, January, 1893.  (Coulson belongs to the Union League Club, San Francisco.)</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>403</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:<P>THE OFFICERS OF MARE ISLAND NAVY YARD,</p><P>and of the Ships in Port,</p><P>request the pleasure of your company</p><P>at a Farewell Reception</p><P>to be given</p><P>Rear Admiral JOHN IRWIN, U.S.N.,</p><P>At the Sail Loft, April 19, 1893,</p><P>Dancing.<HSEP>8:30 P.M.</p><P>At very large functions of this kind, which only happen once in a great while, dancing is generally kept up until daybreak.  But it is not customary at ordinary functions to dance after supper, which is generally announced at midnight.</p><P>Before leaving the patient reader who has followed me through my long voyages in the great social sea and back to the quiet life of a literary man in New York City,--the national center of wealth, fashion, and poverty,--a few hints to ambitious society leaders may not be out of place.  So I will now add a few suggestions which will be found useful to have about the house in any climate.</p><P>Since those hints have been deduced from information obtained from the leading society men of America, it might be well for the reader to remember some if not all of them:</p><P>A fondness for nice social gatherings is an excellent sign in young persons who are well-bred.  It shows matrimonial inclinations.</p><P>You cannot conduct a social organization on a money making basis with any degree of real pleasure to its members.  Business and pleasure will not combine in a dancing party.  "Dentist" N. T. Coulson proved that at a Palace Hotel dance in 1893.</p><P>Persons who object to marriage, and try to prevent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>404</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:other persons of naturally good inclinations from marrying, should be classed as murderers.  They would murder the goddess of natural love.</p><P>Elderly men who pose as "adopted fathers" are sometimes more unreasonable than crazy parents.</p><P>Persons who appropriate cloaks, hats, shoes, handkerchiefs, and other wearing apparel, and run off with the horses and buggies of other guests at social gatherings, should be considered as robbers, burglars, thieves, and pickpockets.</p><P>Persons who get more invitations than they should have, and sell the surplus ones to their friends, and then forget to pay their subscriptions, should be classed as bums and tramps.</p><P>Persons who go to dances under the influence of liquor, and who keep running out between the dances and coming back among the ladies with a disgusting odor of beer, whisky, cloves, and cinnamon bark about their foul mouths, are now regarded as common drunks, toughs, and hoodlums, and are being treated accordingly in making up invitations lists.</p><P>Persons who are known to be runners for wine houses, and who claim that it is good form to have wine at cotillions and bad form to buy it from anybody except themselves, are now being looked upon the same as saloon-keepers, and are being relegated to tenderloindom, where they belong.</p><P>Persons who have not the force of character to quit drinking when they are full enough, should always take more solids than liquids.</p><P>Dentists and doctors who distribute their business cards at cotillions, and send up cards with their business addresses on them when they call upon ladies, are now regarded as quacks.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0059" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. MANTELL'S ADVICE TO POLITE SOCIETY.<LB>"Bear in mind, gentlemen, that you should always take more solids than liquids," said Eugene, to O. A. Bernard, M. M. Estee, and S. M. Shortridge.</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>407</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:<P>Lawyers who do similar things are looked upon as shysters.</p><P>Persons who are always finding fault with cotillion managers who do their best to please all, should be classed as social anarchists.</p><P>Persons who insist on making speeches at the table <illus entity="a108-0060" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Mr. Silas C. Wright.  No relation to the "Fruit-picker."</p></CAPTION>
108.sgm:when nobody wants to listen to them, and then get upon the music stand and announce some fake party that nobody would care to attend, should be regarded as society fakirs.</p><P>Treasurers of charity balls and entertainments who fail to account for the receipts, and then take the admission tickets which the guests deposited at the door and mark "Complimentary" on those which were paid for, and admit waiters, pawn-brokers, and others at reduced rates, and then try to lay the blame on innocent people, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>408</PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:should be classed as society ballot-box stuffers, and should be kicked out bodily.</p><P>Married people who object to children on the absurd idea that the world is already over-populated should learn that there always was and always will be plenty of room on this planet for properly bred children of both sexes.</p><P>Persons who ignore their marriage vows are worthy of the confidence of no one who considers an oath binding.</p><P>Young men who liquidate their board bills at fashionable boarding houses with the proceeds of private poker games, to which they invite chance acquaintances whom they meet at social gatherings, are being classed as "fruit-pickers."</p><P>Women who pose as chaperons in order to get into society to entice young men into their "family boarding houses" to be victimized are called "female fruit-pickers."</p><P>Self-elected leaders and dictators of so-called social clubs who claim that a little money and a few fake notices in the third-rate papers give high social standing to all the saloon keepers, gamblers, sports, and prize-fighters who attend their money-making "functions," should be relegated without unnecessary delay to the ranks of "colored society."</p><P>THE END.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
108.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
108.sgm:<illus entity="a108-0061" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OUTLOOK IN PARVENUCRACY FOR 1900.<LB>Af-ter the ball is o-ver;<LB>Af-ter the truth we see;<LB>Greeny and Birdie in clo-ver,<LB>Some-thing like this, will b-e-e.</p></CAPTION>
109.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-109</TITLE>
109.sgm:<TITLE>Seven years' street preaching in San Francisco, California; embracing incidents, triumphant death scenes, etc. By Rev. William Taylor. Edited by W.P. Strickland:  a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
109.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
109.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
109.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
109.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
109.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
109.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
109.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-689</LCCN>
109.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
109.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
109.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P><illus entity="a109-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
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109.sgm:<P>SEVEN YEARS'</P>
109.sgm:<P>STREET PREACHING</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN</P>
109.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA;</P>
109.sgm:<P>EMBRACING</P>
109.sgm:<P>INCIDENTS, TRIUMPHANT DEATH SCENES, ETC.</P>
109.sgm:<P>BY REV. WILLIAM TAYLOR,</P>
109.sgm:<P>OF THE CALIFORNIA CONFERENCE.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Go out quickly into the streets and lanes of the city."<LB>"The common people heard him gladly."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>EDITED BY W. P. STRICKLAND.</P>
109.sgm:<P>SIXTH THOUSAND.</P>
109.sgm:<P>New York:</P>
109.sgm:<P>PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR</P>
109.sgm:<P>BY CARLTON &amp; PORTER, 200 MULBERRY-STREET.</P>
109.sgm:<P>1857.</P>
109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856, by</P>
109.sgm:<P>D. L. ROSS,</P>
109.sgm:<P>in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New-York.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THERE is a certain class of books which need no introduction, a single glance at their title and contents being sufficient to secure them a reading.  It is unnecessary to say that the following work is of that character.  The author, as various allusions in the body of the work will show, was a street preacher before he went to California, and in the streets of the Monumental City and the Capital he received that initiatory training and qualification for addressing crowds in the open air, which fitted him so successfully for preaching the Gospel among the crowding thousands on the shores of the Pacific, before the erection of churches.  His labors at home in this particular department of Christian effort doubtless pointed him out to the authorities of the Church as the very man for that new and interesting field, so strangely opened by Providence to the citizens of the United States.</P>
109.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1848, while passing up Baltimore-street, he heard some one call his name.  On turning in the direction of the sound, he saw Christian Keener <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>The reader will find, in perusing these pages, the results of his seven years' labors in the land of gold and crime; and as he follows him from street to street, from hospital to Bethel, and from plaza to quay, and hears his songs and sermons, and reads his sketches of men and manners, and the various scenes through which he passed, will learn more of the real social and political condition of the country than has ever yet been furnished by books or journals.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The following letter, from the Hon. Wilson Flint, Senator in the California State Legislature, which was sent unsolicited, will show to what extent Mr. Taylor's labors were successful, as well as the manner in which they were appreciated:</P>
109.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, Sept. 10, 1856.</P>
109.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Rev. Wm. Taylor:</HI>
109.sgm:<P>MY ESTEEMED FRIEND--Learning that you were intending to publish a work, containing a history of your labors as a preacher of the Christian religion at San Francisco, from your arrival here in 1849 to the present time, I thought it would be in place for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>It was on a Sunday morning, in December, 1849, when landing from the Panama steamer, I wended my way with the throng to Portsmouth Square, this being at that time the great resort of the denizens of the rising metropolis.  Three sides of the square were mostly occupied by buildings, which served the double purpose of hotels and gambling-houses, the latter calling being regarded at that time as a very reputable profession.  On the fourth and upper side of the square was an adobe building, from the steps of which you were discoursing from the text, "The way of the transgressor is hard."</P>
109.sgm:<P>It was a scene I shall never forget.  On all sides of you were gambling-houses, each with its band of music in full blast.  Crowds were going in and out; fortunes were being lost and won, terrible imprecations and blasphemies rose amid the horrid wail, and it seemed to me that Pandemonium was let loose.  Above all this, I heard you utter the following prophetic sentence, which has since been fully realized: "The power of Satan seems at this time in the ascendency, wherever I cast my eye; but, sure as there is a God in heaven, we will turn the tables upon the Evil One, and where now my voice meets naught but scoffs and jeers, with unwavering faith in my Divine Master, I hope to labor on to the time when these dens of iniquity around me shall all be swept away."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Six years of time have sped on, and what a wondrous change!  Portsmouth Square now, of a Sabbath morn, is thronged with women and children wending their way to the numerous churches in the surrounding localities.  A great metropolis spreads out on every side, and civilization and Christianity go hand in hand to humanize the race of man.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Yours obediently,</P>
109.sgm:<P>WILSON FLINT.</P>
109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>Numerous as have been the works published in relation to California, its religious history has not been written; and hence the present work occupies a department altogether new in California literature.  As such, we have no doubt it will be sought after with avidity, and read by thousands.  The work also supplies a desideratum in the literature of the Church, being a most admirable treatise on open-air preaching, illustrated by the labors of ten years.  Its incidents and triumphant death scenes are of a most thrillingly interesting character, and the latter exemplify, in an eminent degree, the excellence and value of religion.</P>
109.sgm:<P>EDITOR.</P>
109.sgm:<P>NEW-YORK December 19, 1856.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>STREET PREACHING<HSEP>PAGE 11<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>OBJECTIONS TO STREET PREACHING CONSIDERED<HSEP>24<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>SUGGESTIONS FOR A STREET PREACHER<HSEP>32<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>FIRST PREACHING ON THE PLAZA<HSEP>52<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>PRIMITIVE CLASS-MEETINGS IN SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>57<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>MY FIRST PREACHING IN THE STREETS OF SACRAMENTO CITY<HSEP>62<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>STARVATION IN AN EX-CITY HOSPITAL<HSEP>66<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>A BROADSIDE UPON THE ARMY OF THE ALIENS<HSEP>73<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>THE IRISH SAILOR'S DILEMMA<HSEP>75<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>"THEY'LL THINK I'M A THIEF"<HSEP>78<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>PREACHING IN A GAMBLING-HOUSE<HSEP>82<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO IN AN UPROAR<HSEP>87 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:CHAPTER XIII.<LB>CITY HOSPITAL ON FIRE<HSEP>PAGE 89<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>THE PREACHING THAT KILLED THE PLAZA CLOWN<HSEP>92<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>HELPED TO A TEXT BY THE THIEF THAT STOLE MY MONEY<HSEP>96<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>THE HUMAN HEART<HSEP>99<LB>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>THE INDEPENDENCE BELL<HSEP>102<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>KING DAVID'S FOOL<HSEP>105<LB>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>THE TIME THE LORD DID NOT "KEEP THE CITY," AND WHY--THE GREAT FIRE<HSEP>110<LB>CHAPTER XX.<LB>ARRIVAL OF MISSIONARIES<HSEP>116<LB>CHAPTER XXI.<LB>THE WHISKY-BARREL PULPIT--THE PORK-BARREL PULPIT<HSEP>118<LB>CHAPTER XXII.<LB>WAYSIDE HEARERS<HSEP>129<LB>CHAPTER XXIII.<LB>A MOTHER'S TODDY-LOVING SON<HSEP>132<LB>CHAPTER XXIV.<LB>THE DEATH OF BELSHAZZAR<HSEP>134<LB>CHAPTER XXV.<LB>A PERSONAL COLLISION ON THE PLAZA<HSEP>138<LB>CHAPTER XXVI.<LB>A LIVING ILLUSTRATION<HSEP>143<LB>CHAPTER XXVII.<LB>CALIFORNIA HUSBANDS MEETING THEIR WIVES<HSEP>146<LB>CHAPTER XXVIII.<LB>"DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE"<HSEP>150 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:CHAPTER XXIX.<LB>PROFANE SWEARING<HSEP>PAGE 152<LB>CHAPTER XXX.<LB>A SABBATH DAY'S WORK<HSEP>155<LB>CHAPTER XXXI.<LB>"SAVE ME FROM MY FRIENDS"<HSEP>157<LB>CHAPTER XXXII.<LB>DEFENSE OF THE SABBATH<HSEP>159<LB>CHAPTER XXXIII.<LB>EVIL TIDINGS<HSEP>161<LB>CHAPTER XXXIV.<LB>THE REPROBATE SAILOR REDEEMED<HSEP>166<LB>CHAPTER XXXV.<LB>THE DRUNKEN SUICIDE'S FUNERAL<HSEP>170<LB>CHAPTER XXXVI.<LB>A PEEP INTO A CALIFORNIA LOVE-FEAST<HSEP>174<LB>CHAPTER XXXVII.<LB>"YOU'VE KNOCKED ME ALL INTO A KINK"<HSEP>185<LB>CHAPTER XXXVIII.<LB>HONORARY CHURCH MEMBERS--"O, I'M SO 'SHAMED"<HSEP>188<LB>CHAPTER XXXIX.<LB>THE SAILOR'S VISION ON LONG WHARF<HSEP>191<LB>CHAPTER XL.<LB>"A SABBATH-DAY'S JOURNEY" IN SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>193<LB>CHAPTER XLI.<LB>THE FARE HAS RISEN<HSEP>207<LB>CHAPTER XLII.<LB>A DUELIST'S FUNERAL<HSEP>210<LB>CHAPTER XLIII.<LB>RESTITUTION<HSEP>215<LB>CHAPTER XLIV.<LB>"SHANGHAEING" THE SAILORS<HSEP>219 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:CHAPTER XLV.<LB>JAMES KING, OF WM., AND HIS MORAL PLATFORM<HSEP>PAGE 243<LB>CHAPTER XLVI.<LB>THE FOUNTAIN OPENED<HSEP>257<LB>CHAPTER XLVII.<LB>THE MISSIONARY TO NINEVEH<HSEP>262<LB>CHAPTER XLVIII.<LB>THE DOWNFALL OF THE HAMAN FAMILY<HSEP>272<LB>CHAPTER XLIX.<LB>LETTERS FROM HOME<HSEP>282<LB>CHAPTER L.<LB>PATRIOTIC PERSUASIVES TO BE A CHRISTIAN<HSEP>290<LB>CHAPTER LI.<LB>A "LEGION" OF CALIFORNIA DEVILS--A HARD CASE<HSEP>302<LB>CHAPTER LII.<LB>THE SEBASTOPOL OF "OLD NICK"<HSEP>342<LB>CHAPTER LIII.<LB>TRIUMPHANT DEATH SCENES<HSEP>350<LB>S. SWITZER, OF ROXBURY<HSEP>351<LB>ISAAC JONES AND HIS WIFE MARY<HSEP>353<LB>HENRY DUNN<HSEP>358<LB>C. R. HOYT<HSEP>359<LB>MARSHAL B. BROWN<HSEP>361<LB>WILLIAM H. STEVENS<HSEP>363<LB>ORLANDO GALE<HSEP>365<LB>A. C. CHIPPELL<HSEP>367<LB>MORTON, OF ILLINOIS<HSEP>368<LB>JAMES F. DIXON<HSEP>371<LB>C. W. BRADLEY<HSEP>372<LB>ROMEO DORWIN<HSEP>373<LB>WILLIAM CROCKETT<HSEP>376<LB>DYING MESSAGE OF EDWARD MOW<HSEP>380<LB>BROTHER GUY, AND HIS TWO DYING REQUESTS<HSEP>381<LB>CHARLES AUROM<HSEP>382<LB>SAMUEL M. RAMSON<HSEP>383<LB>THE BROTHER WHO DEPARTED WITHOUT THE SACRAMENT<HSEP>385<LB>THE DYING GERMAN IN A STABLE<HSEP>387<LB>THE DYING NORWEGIAN BOY<HSEP>389<LB>JOSEPH M. GUSTIN<HSEP>390<LB>ISAAC ENSLOW<HSEP>391<LB>JUDSON FORBES<HSEP>392</P>
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109.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>STREET PREACHING.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Why do you preach in the streets and highways?"  I answer,</P>
109.sgm:<P>I.  BECAUSE IT IS A DUTY ENJOINED BY THE LORD JESUS CHRIST.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The "great commission," under which every true embassador goes forth in the "ministry of reconciliation," by direct <HI REND="italics">implication</HI>
109.sgm:, enjoins the duty of out-door preaching: " <HI REND="italics">Go ye into all the world, and preach the Gospel to every creature</HI>
109.sgm:."  Did the apostles understand the Great Teacher to mean that they were to preach in the temple, in the synagogues, in "hired houses," and "upper rooms?"  Certainly.  Did they understand him to mean nothing more than that?  Certainly not.  They well knew that the temple, and the synagogues, and all the house room <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Again.  The Saviour, illustrating, by the parable of the "Great Supper," the bounteous provision of mercy in the Gospel, enjoins, by <HI REND="italics">direct command</HI>
109.sgm:<P>II.  IT IS SUPPORTED BY DIVINE AND APOSTOLIC PRECEDENT AND EXAMPLE.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The only sermon of our Divine teacher on record, was preached on a mountain.  Many others of which we have full "reports," were preached by the sea-shore, on the decks of ships, and in the streets of Capernaum.  He preached, to be sure, in the temple and in the synagogues, but of his sermons on those occasions, there is less recorded than of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:"out-door sermons."  We believe that he established, by his own example, the <HI REND="italics">precedents</HI>
109.sgm: he designed to be practically operative through all time, namely: To get all we can into the synagogues and churches, and there preach to them, and then to "go out into the streets and lanes of the cities, and into the highways and hedges," and hunt up <HI REND="italics">all the rest</HI>
109.sgm:<P>III.  IT HAS BEEN CONFIRMED BY A DIVINE ATTESTATION, in that God has always <HI REND="italics">signally</HI>
109.sgm: owned and blessed the faithful preaching of the word in the streets, lanes, highways, and hedges, through all the history of the Church to the present time.  Without going back to instance the singular courage displayed and success attained by the out-door preaching of some of the Vaudois missionaries, in the Dark Ages, we would invite attention to the "field and street preaching" of more modern days.  Witness the labors and successes of Whitefield, and Wesley, and Fletcher, and their coadjutors in the same work.  God made the out-door preaching of those men a leading instrumentality in awaking the masses of the "United Kingdom of Great Britain," and in bringing about the great reformation of the eighteenth century.  See the labors and good fruits of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Thus Jesse Lee drove the entering wedge of Methodistic Christianity into New-England.  American camp-meetings of the different Churches come under the apostolic precedent of out-door preaching.  See how they have been honored of God.  Recount, if you can, the multiplied thousands of souls who have been converted at camp-meetings, multitudes of whom have washed their robes in the blood of Jesus, and are to-day seated above the circle of the heavens, praising God for camp-meetings.  Strike out of the Church in America all her ministers and members who have been brought to God through the instrumentality of camp-meetings, and you will have a practical demonstration of the truth of our position, which will astonish you.  I instance camp-meetings not as a proof that the Gospel ministers of America have fulfilled all their duty in regard to out-door preaching, but as evidence that they have gifts eminently qualifying them for that work, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>IV.  DEMONSTRATING THE MORAL NECESSITY OF STREET PREACHING, on the principle suggested, namely:  <HI REND="italics">The facts as they are exhibited in the present history of the world</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Passing by heathendom and foreign Christian countries, I will confine my investigations to our own country.  And now allow me to inquire of the objector, What proportion of the population of your town or city will your churches accommodate?  And what proportion of the people attend church?  Now, what can you do for those "creatures" embraced in the provisions of your Divine commission, but not embraced in your church accommodations?  To say that the vast proportion of your non-church-going population must either come to Church or go to hell unwarned, is to institute a new condition of salvation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Though I have been singing and preaching the "royal proclamation," in the "highways," to these wanderers, for seven years, my tears would now, as I write, saturate the manuscript, at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>But let me ascend to a higher stand-point, and take a wider view of the subject.  According to statistics furnished by the United States Census of 1850, the Methodists of this great republic have 12,467 churches, which would accommodate 4,209,333 persons.  Now, we profess to "believe that God's design, in raising up the people called Methodists, was to reform the continent, and spread Scriptural holiness over these lands."  I am no croaker.  I think I have a just appreciation of the great work God hath wrought through the Methodists, and other denominations of Christians as well, and I think I am unfeignedly thankful.  But let us look again at the facts before mentioned.  We have been engaged in this work of reforming the continent for upward of eighty years.  We have in our favor the constitution and laws of the land, one common language, ready access to all classes of society, and every desirable facility for communicating truth.  We also have at command the mighty appliances of our mighty Gospel, and the spiritual resources of Omnipotent grace.  And yet, in all this lapse of four-score years, we have only reached with the sound of the Gospel jubilee about one fifth of the population of the United States.  As embassadors of Christ, we have, at last, "challenged for a hearing" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>But I would go up still higher, to a point whence I can have one grand view of the whole "field."  According to the census returns of 1850, all the churches of the United States, Catholic, Protestant, and all together, will accommodate 14,000,000, leaving about 10,000,000 of souls in this Christian republic, for whom there is no room in any of the churches.  Four tenths of the population of these United States never go to church!</P>
109.sgm:<P>"But," it is asked, "does not a much larger number than that indicated by the aggregate capacity of the churches occasionally attend church, alternately with other occasional church-goers?"  If you will make a calculation of the actual aggregate attendance in the churches throughout the land, you will find the number resulting from such a calculation so far below the number indicated by the aggregate capacity of the churches, that you will have plenty of room left to accommodate all your occasional church-goers, without calling on one of our outside ten millions.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>These millions of neglectful and neglected souls are all subjects of redeeming mercy in Christ, and the infinite heart of Jesus, with every pulsation, throbs in sympathy with their woes.  They can be redeemed and elevated to good citizenship in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:Christian republic, and to heirship in the kingdom of glory.  But the question remains, How shall they be reached and saved?  The statesman replies, "Educate the masses, multiply public schools, academies, and colleges; teach every prattler in the nation how to read."  That is a suggestion worthy of a statesman, a most desirable end to be attained.  But will mere intellectual training, however important, secure the end proposed?  Hear what General Washington says on this subject: "Of all the dispositions and habits which lead to political prosperity, religion and morality are indispensable supports.  In vain would that man claim the tribute of patriotism who should labor to subvert the great pillars of human happiness, those firmest props of men and citizens!  The mere politician, equally with the pious man, ought to respect and cherish them.  A volume could not trace all their connections with private and public felicity.  Let it be simply asked, Where is the security for property, for reputation, for life, if the sense of religios obligation desert the oaths which are instruments of investigation in the courts of justice?  And let us indulge with caution the supposition that morality can be maintained without religion.  Whatever may be conceded to the influence of refined education on minds of a peculiar structure, reason and experience both forbid us to expect that national morality can prevail in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:exclusion of religious principle."  Educate a rogue, (I use the term "educate" in the popular sense of intellectual training,) and the increase of his intellectual power will but make him the more accomplished as a rogue, and proportionably more dangerous to society.  The American Bible Society, the grand Christian institution on whose catholic platform all denominations of Christians meet, and pray, and labor together, and realize and exhibit "how good and how pleasant it is for brethren to dwell together in unity," has pledged itself to place a Bible in the hands of every American family, a conception and purpose worthy so noble an institution.  The Tract Societies of different grades are doing a great work for the moral improvement of the masses.  An increasing diffusion of religious literature in general is looked upon, and justly too, as a great means of good to society.  But, after all, the question arises, Will a man, who never goes to church, nor desires to go, read the Bibles, and tracts, and religious books you put into his hands?  A few may, but the mass of such people certainly will not.  They have no desire for religion, and no taste for religious literature, and they are not so self-denying as to spend time in reading what is not agreeable to their views and feelings.  These means of diffusing religious knowledge, however important as auxiliaries, do not constitute the peculiar instrumentality <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:ordained of God for the enlightenment and salvation of the world.  If this were so, then the great commission would have been framed accordingly, and would read: "Go, publish Bibles, tracts, papers, and religious books, and scatter them abroad as `leaves from the tree of life for the healing of the nations.'"  Jesus says no such thing; but " <HI REND="italics">Go</HI>
109.sgm: YE <HI REND="italics">into all the world, and</HI>
109.sgm: PREACH the Gospel TO EVERY CREATURE."  Let the embassadors of Jesus use all the collateral appliances at their command, as valuable aids, but not to be substituted for God's appointment of PREACHING <HI REND="italics">the Gospel</HI>
109.sgm:<P>The whole matter resolves itself into this, that these ten millions of our neighbors, whom we are commanded to love ourselves, must have "the Gospel preached unto them," or the mass of them will go to perdition.  They are blinded by the god of this world, and will not come to us.  Should we not, in the name and spirit of Him who came to seek and to save the lost, "go" to them?</P>
109.sgm:<P>In concluding this argument, I would most respectfully submit a suggestion for the consideration of wise and good men.  Let a good representation of the American pulpit, for the love of souls, as the visible representatives of Jesus, "go out into the highways, and preach the Gospel."  Let each act upon his own responsibility, as he that must give an account; but, as far as practicable, let the ministers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>OBJECTIONS TO STREET PREACHING CONSIDERED.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I.  Do I HEAR YOU SAY IT IS A DEGRADATION OF MINISTERIAL DIGNITY?</P>
109.sgm:<P>I reply: Any minister of the Gospel, whose "ministerial dignity" depends, for its elevation and support, upon the sacredness of a consecrated pulpit, is not, I confess, a suitable person for a street preacher.  A preacher, to succeed in the streets, must be dignified by a special unction of the Holy Spirit.  He must feel such an undying thirst for the salvation of sinners as will prompt him, like Aaron, to run out into the camp, and "stand between the living and the dead;" not only to offer the incense of earnest prayer to God on their behalf, but also to warn them from the example of their neighbors, who have perished in their sins.  Then the accompanying presence of Him who hath said, "Lo, I am with you always, even unto the end of the world," will consecrate any place in which he may open his commission, as much as the spot where "Jacob slept, and dreamed, and saw the ladder that reached from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>II.  IT MAKES THE PREACHING OF THE GOSPEL TOO COMMON.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I think there is much more danger of making the preaching of the Gospel too uncommon than "too common;" too abstract in the matter of it, and too high in its <HI REND="italics">mode</HI>
109.sgm:<P>III.  IT WILL DETRACT FROM THE INTEREST OF THE PEOPLE IN THE REGULAR MINISTRATIONS OF THE PULPIT.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>Such a proposition is philosophically unsound, and is contradicted by the facts in all history relating to this subject.  Street preaching, where churches were not, has always led to their erection, and when efficiently administered, even in old cities, has always contributed to increase the congregations in church.  Such is, so palpably, the testimony of history, that I need not instance the proofs; and such is the result of my own observations.  I had the honor of preaching two years (excepting the cold weather) in the streets of Georgetown, D.C.  The effect was manifestly good in the increase of the regular church audiences.  And in a revival there, under the superintendence of Rev. Henry Tarring, of precious memory, now in glory, quite a number of the converts testified that they received their religious awakening under the "market-house preaching."  Among those converts were several Roman Catholics, who had never heard Protestant preaching until attracted by the street exercises.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I also had the pleasure of preaching a year in Belair Market, Baltimore City.  Two persons, I remember, kneeled on the pavement, and cried for mercy, and were there happily converted.  One of them, by the name of "Shilling," I learn is still a useful member of the Church in North Baltimore Station.  During the summer of my preaching in that market, "Father Darling," the sexton of the Monument-street <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In the city of San Francisco my street preaching has been a regular advertisement for the churches in general, for I always take occasion to announce the church appointments.  It has always contributed to our church congregations; and a majority of those whom I had the happiness of seeing converted in this wicked city, say two hundred, testified to the fact that they were awakened under the street preaching.  This city, however, does not furnish a fair test of the legitimate effect of the preached word, in doors or out, as I will take occasion to show in the progress of this work.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IV.  IT CREATES RIOTS AND CONFUSION IN THE STREETS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I apprehend that much of the trouble which has been heard of in connection with street preaching, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Still, "men love darkness rather than light," and it would not be surprising if an earnest, faithful, modern street preacher should share the same lot that St. Paul did at Athens, Philippi, and other places, but we never learned that the apostle considered that a sufficient objection to lead him to desist from preaching in the streets.  I have been preaching regularly in the streets for more than ten years, and seven of them among California gamblers and rum-sellers, and through the good providence of the Lord, I have never had a serious disturbance, nor lost a congregation in the streets.</P>
109.sgm:<P>V.  IT WILL BRING THE PREACHER INTO COLLISION WITH THE CIVIL AUTHORITIES.</P>
109.sgm:<P>We should be careful, while we do our duty fearlessly, not to provoke a collision with "the powers that be."  If we succeed in controlling the masses, and preserve order at our meetings, we will not be likely to have any trouble "at court."  But if, after all, we should be interfered with in the conscientious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>VI.  THE PREACHER IS NOT ABLE TO PREACH IN CHURCH AND OUT DOORS TOO, AND MUST GIVE THE PREFERENCE TO THE REGULAR SERVICES OF THE SANCTUARY.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Very well, if such is the fact in your case, I think you choose the right alternative.  I would not advise you to neglect your regular appointments by any means; but yet, are there not very many who can, in addition to their regular appointments in church, take an extra one in the streets?  I never have, nor do I now, sit in judgment on the consciences of my brethren in regard to this matter.  Nearly the whole itinerant family are out-door preachers at camp-meetings and other extra occasions, and many of them preach themselves into a premature grave.  I, nevertheless, believe that there are ten thousand ministers in the United States, among the different denominations, who are naturally well adapted to this work, and who, by proper application, would excel as street preachers, and fill their pulpits all the better for it.  They have good voices for singing, a ready utterance, and a fair development of <HI REND="italics">tact</HI>
109.sgm: in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>VII.  IT WILL GIVE THE PREACHER THE BRONCHITIS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I give it, as my candid opinion, that your throat and lungs will suffer much less in the pure open air than they do in the carbonized, sickly atmosphere of crowded churches.  I am accustomed to listen to the same clear voices in the streets, three hundred and sixty-five days in each year: "Fish! fish! fresh salmon!"  "Eggs! eggs! fresh California eggs!"  "Candy!  Here's your celebrated cough candy!  Everybody buys it; now's your chance!"  "Here's your fresh California pears, apples, oranges, and peaches!  Only two bits a pound!  Buy 'em up!"  "Latest news from the East!  Arrival of the `John L. Stephens!'  Here's your New-York Herald, New-York Tribune, and New-Orleans True Delta!"  Who ever heard of the fish, egg, candy, or fruit "crier," or the newsboys taking the bronchitis?  An auctioneer will stand in the street, and "cry" at the top of his voice for two hours every day, and yet we never heard of an auctioneer taking the bronchitis "He gets used to it."  It is his business, and his physical functions adapt themselves to it.  Rev. I. Owen and myself were, a few years ago, highly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>VIII.  IT WILL CRACK AND INJURE THE VOICE.</P>
109.sgm:<P>If you will not bind your neck with a tight cravat, and if you will stand erect, head up, speak naturally, and not strain your voice, you will experience an improvement in the quality and an increasing compass and power of voice, and a greater facility in natural utterance by regular street preaching.  Ten years ago, preaching two sermons in church and one in the streets, caused me hoarseness of voice and great weariness of body; but now, with three sermons in church and two in the streets, each Sabbath, I have no hoarseness, and but little weariness.  Before I commenced street preaching, I was subject to violent colds and soreness of throat and lungs; but I have known, by experience, nothing of "sore throat" or "sore lungs" for years.  I would not intimate that I am invulnerable to such affections; but I do believe that the danger is lessened, at least fifty per cent., by the out-door preaching.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>SUGGESTIONS FOR A STREET PREACHER.</P>
109.sgm:<P>To my young brother who has made up his mind to "go out into the highways," and preach the Gospel, I would respectfully submit a few suggestions.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I.  Read over your commission: "Go ye, therefore, and teach all nations, baptizing them in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost; teaching them to observe all things whatsoever I have commanded you: and lo, I am with you always, even unto the end of the world.  Amen."  Then reassure your faith by a little Gospel logic, thus: 1.  Am I an embassador of Christ?  2.  Do I obey the orders of the Master, "teaching them to observe all things whatsoever he has commanded?"  3.  The conclusion: "Lo, I am with you always, even unto the end of the world."</P>
109.sgm:<P>For what purpose is he with me?  Is it not to speak through his unworthy embassador, to apply the word immediately to the hearts of the hearers, and to save NOW such as will come unto him?  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>II.  ACT UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF YOUR COMMISSION, UPON YOUR OWN CONVICTIONS OF DUTY.  Consult no man as to whether or not you should do your duty.  You may inquire, if need be, where, in the streets, the greatest number of the "creatures" to whom you are sent, may be congregated, and what is the best hour in the day to get the best hearing; but to consult whether or not you should "go out," is, first, wrong in principle, because Jesus says <HI REND="italics">Go</HI>
109.sgm:, and thus fastens the obligation upon you, unless the condition of your health, or other providential bar, should operate to limit your obligation to preaching in the church; and, secondly, you will find in every place some excellent and pious men who will argue the inexpedience of street preaching in that place, and will thereby weaken your faith and purposes, and commit themselves to the negative of the question, against you.  Whereas, if you simply announce your appointment for preaching in the street, and assign as the reason your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>III.  THE "PREPARATION" FOR A SERMON IN THE STREET.  You should have clear perceptions of the leading principles and facts you wish to announce.  Let your propositions be briefly stated, in simple, appropriate language, and your principles be clearly defined.  If you wish to employ arguments, let them be short, practical, and to the point.  Illustrate the truth amply, and apply it promptly and pointedly as you proceed.  Draw your illustrations from the everyday transactions and occurrences of life, as did the Saviour and his apostles.  Make it a point, at all times, to gather up and store away suitable illustrations of Bible truth, from the streets, from the newspapers, hospitals, prisons, and from your pastoral visitations in domestic circles.  Fresh facts, from personal observation, are much better in their effect than borrowed ones, or second-hand stories.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Do not confine yourself so closely to any system or arrangement of your sermon, as to prevent your seizing and laying under contribution all the incidents <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>If you will bear with me, I will give you just here a few illustrations of this point.  One Sunday afternoon in 1853, preaching on the "Long Wharf," and wishing to illustrate the distinction between a decent, well-behaved sinner, outwardly, and a violent, out-breaking sinner, I remarked, after stating the point, "Gentlemen, I stand on what I suppose to be a cask of brandy.  Keep it tightly bunged and spiled, and it is entirely harmless, and answers some very good purposes; it even makes a very good pulpit.  But draw that spile, and fifty men will lie down here, and drink up its spirit, and then wallow in the gutter, and before ten o'clock to-night will carry sorrow and desolation to the hearts of fifty families.  So that man there, trying to urge his horse through the audience," all eyes turned from the cask to the man, "if he had kept his mouth shut, we might have supposed him a very decent fellow; but finding the street blocked up with this living mass of humanity, he drew the spile, and out gurgled the most profane oaths and curses.  But, while there is now all the difference between outwardly moral and out-breaking sinners, as between a tightly-bunged and an open cask of brandy, I would invite your attention to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Should you attempt to get this harmless cask of brandy through the custom-house in Portland, Maine, the inspector would pay no regard to the outside appearance, or separate value of the cask: he would extract the bung, let down his phial, draw out and smell its contents; then shake his head, and mark it contraband.  My friends, God has a great custom-house, through which every man has to pass for inspection, before he can be admitted into his kingdom.  When you are entered for examination, do you imagine that the great omniscient Inspector will pay any regard to your outside appearance or conduct?  Nay, my dear sirs, he will sound the inner depths of your souls.  All who are `filled with the spirit' of Christ will be passed, and treasured up as meet for the Master's use; but all who have not the love of God shed abroad in their hearts, will be pronounced `contraband,' and branded eternally with, `Depart, ye cursed, into everlasting fire, prepared for the devil and his angels.'"</P>
109.sgm:<P>On another occasion, near the same place, I was preaching on the bondage of sin, and said to the large audience assembled: "My dear sirs, you are slaves to sin and Satan; your conduct proves it, and frequently you unwittingly confess it.  I said to a man a few days ago: `My friend, you ought not to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:swear.'  `It's a free country,' said he, `and I'll do as I please.'  `But, sir,' said I, `a gentleman will not please to indulge in a practice so useless and wicked.  Moreover, I don't allow a man to swear in the presence of my little boys here.'  `Well,' said he, `I know it is a mean practice; but I've got into the habit of it, and I can't quit it.'  So, in trying to apologize for your various sins, you have often confessed the fact that you are a poor prisoner in bondage to sin.  A man enslaved by habits of intemperance came to see me a few days since, and said: `Father Taylor, what shall I do?  I have a dear wife and four sweet little children in New York, and I am afraid I shall never see them again,' crying as though his heart would break.  `I used to have plenty of everything I wanted, and was happy with my dear family; (God bless their dear souls, I fear I shall never see them again;) but I came to California, fell in with bad company, and have gotten into this cursed habit of drinking, and can't quit it.  I've tried often; but it's no use.'  `Now, my friend, said I, `for the sake of your family, that you say you love, for the sake of your poor body, so much abused by rum, and for the sake of your soul, redeemed by the blood of Jesus, do make one more effort to be a man.  Shun your drinking companions as you would Satan, and fly from the grog-shops as you would from the yawning mouth of hell; and cry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"One such, came to me a short time ago; and after relating the sad tale of his sorrows, asked to sign the pledge.  I gave him a pledge, and he signed it, saying: `There it is; my name is there once for all.  Henceforth I'll be a sober man.'  The next day, as I passed up California-street, I saw him with a demijohn in his hand.  `Why, my friend,' said I, `what are you doing with that stuff?'  `O,' said he, `I thought, as I was knocking off for good this time, I would just take one more nip.'  My dear friends, such is your own bondage to your prevailing sins, whatever they may be.  Chains of habit are stronger than chains of steel; you cannot break them."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Just at that moment, a candidate for the chain-gang was conducted along the street, with a heavy chain around his leg.  Said I:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Look at that poor fellow!  How gladly would he kick off that heavy chain, and be free!  But look at that great band of iron round his leg, and the strong links.  He cannot break them.  And yet he is no more a prisoner to-day, under that heavy chain, in the hands of his keeper, than you are under the chains of sinful habit, in the hands of your keeper, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:the devil, by whom you are `led captive at his will.'  `O, well,' says one, `if that be true, it is no use for us to try to be better, and you had as well let us alone.'  That such is your bondage to sin, there is not a question, your own consciences and the word of God being judges; and your utter inability to free yourselves is equally true.  You may, to be sure, under certain helpful influences, break off from some of the outward forms of sin, but not from sin itself.  You have tried it often, and failed every time.  `What, then, shall we do?' says one.  Ah! I have you now just where I wanted to get you; where the Philippian jailer was when he cried to Paul and Silas, `Sirs, what must I do to be saved?'  Into the self-conscious bondage which St. Paul describes in the seventh chapter of his Epistle to the Romans, `I consent unto the law that it is good.'  `But I see another law in my members warring against the law of my mind, and bringing me into captivity to the law of sin, which is in my members.'  The law of sin in your members, sinful propensities, passions, and habits.  Do you understand the practical workings of that law?  `O, wretched man that I am, who shall deliver me from the body of this death?'  Not only imprisoned, but bound to a dead body, face to face, and limb to limb.  Who shall deliver me from such bondage and death?  Thanks be unto God, there is an almighty Deliverer now waiting to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>On the occasion last referred to, the wind being high, there was a sudden cracking noise heard among the shipping, and a part of the audience started to run and see what the matter was, when I said:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"What a dreadful thing it would be for some old ship to be wrecked.  You would talk about it all day, and to-morrow morning all the papers would herald the sad disaster and loss; but souls, precious souls, one of which is worth more than all the fleets and navies of the world, are wrecked in our midst dayly, and drift down the gulf stream of despair into the maelstrom of hell, and nothing is said about it, no paper announces the sad disaster; a soul wrecked and damned forever! no possibility of recovery, and no insurance."</P>
109.sgm:<P>IV.  IN REGARD TO THE MANAGEMENT OF AN OUTDOOR AUDIENCE, I would remark:</P>
109.sgm:<P>1.  If you apprehend disturbance, put every man on his good behavior as an American citizen, or as persons who have had some advantages in "good breeding," and who have self-respect, and presume that good order is what you expect, as a matter of course.  If a man misbehave, always speak kindly to him.  Appeal to his reason and common sense, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"The apostle David says, it is hard for thee to kick against the pricks."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"See here, my friend," said I, "when did you arrive, sir?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I came from the old country," said he, "about six years ago."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"But I want to know when you came to California?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O, a good while ago," said he.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"How many days since?" said I.  He hesitated, and looked for an opening through the crowd, by which he might escape, and then replied:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"About two weeks ago, sir."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I knew," said I, "by your conduct that you had recently arrived, and had not learned how to behave yourself here yet.  You seem to imagine that we were all a set of heathen here in California, and that you could `cut up,' and do as you please.  Now as you are a stranger in these parts, I will inform you that the order of the day in California is for all classes of society to respect the preaching of the Gospel, and never to disturb a preacher in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>I have often caused men, when trying to make a disturbance, to run and hide themselves, by offering an apology for their conduct.  "Don't hurt that poor fellow, friends; we must make great allowance for his bad conduct.  It is fair to presume that he has just arrived from some barbarous island of the Pacific, and has not yet learned how to behave himself."  To turn the eyes of an audience, sparkling with good-humored contempt, upon a fellow, will move him as suddenly, almost, as a charge of bayonets.  I have, however, always run such fellows off the track so good-humoredly, that I have never yet had an after difficulty with one of them.</P>
109.sgm:<P>2.  If by a cry of fire, or otherwise, your congregation is scattered, do not be discouraged, but watch your opportunity to take advantage of the disturbing excitement, and set your sails to take the breeze; and you will, probably, double or quadruple your congregation in five minutes, and then, under the excitement of the occasion, thunder home the truth into the wakeful, curious minds of the crowd.  An important point is gained, when, by any legitimate means, the people are fairly waked up, so as to listen attentively.  Get your metal melted, and then mold it.  I might produce a hundred illustrations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In 1854, on the Plaza, in San Francisco, just as I was reading my text, a Frenchman stole a pair of boots on the opposite side of the Plaza; and the cry rang through the streets, "Stop thief! stop thief! stop thief!" causing one general rush.  Seeing that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:could not directly withstand the force of the tide, I said, "Run, boys, run and catch him!  Put him into the station-house, and hasten back.  I've got something to tell you.  I'll sing again, and wait for you."  By the time the song was ended, back came the crowd, doubled, and multiplied by the addition of all the thief-catchers within a dozen of squares.  I then, as I always do, tried to improve the occasion, saying, "Gentlemen, the devil helped that poor Frenchman into a bad job, when he stole those boots.  The old fellow is very sharp, and does not always design to get his servants into such troubles; for he wishes to tie them permanently to his interest, and lead them quietly down to hell.  While you look with contempt upon the poor boot-stealer, you forget that many of you are equally dishonest, only you steal in some more honorable way.  And you overlook the fact that most of you are guilty of the outrageous crime of `robbing God.'  The devil tries to blind you to that fact, until you exhaust the patience of God, and fill up the measure of your iniquity, and then, when the righteous God delivers you over to your master, whose companionship and service you have chosen, the same smooth, diabolic tongue which deceived our first parents, and now lures you along so charmingly in the way to hell, will then, in tones of thunder, pursue your frightened souls through the caverns of dark damnation, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>A cry of fire has often elicited appeals of this character: "Why, my friends, the devouring fire is a dreadful thing.  To see the labors of years consumed in an hour, and poor families turned out homeless and friendless.  But O, my God! what are all the disasters of fire, here, compared with the interminable fires of hell, which will soon break out upon the souls of most of my audience, unless they fly to Christ for refuge.  Who among us `shall dwell with the devouring fire?' who among us shall `dwell with everlasting burnings?'"  Isa. xxxiii, 14.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Once on the Plaza the congregation was disturbed by a false alarm of fire, and I said: "My dear sirs, how quickly a cry of fire, though often, as in this case, a false alarm, starts you.  You run as though the salvation of the world depended on the race.  I come to you here every Sabbath with an alarming cry, the danger of which, I warn you, is more dreadful than the burning of all the cities on the globe at one time, and I never raise a false alarm.  I cry, Fire! fire! fire! hell fire!  It is breaking out in our very midst every day, and sweeping down the souls of your neighbors into the hopeless depths of the burning lake beneath, whence `the smoke of their torments will ascend forever and ever!'  Why do you not run, and fly as from the brink of hell, and take refuge in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Attending the Petaluma Camp-meeting a short time since, while a brother was preaching very earnestly, a horse broke loose in the rear of the preacher's stand, and making a great noise among the wagons, the people sprang to their feet, <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
109.sgm:<P>In the summer of 1855, I had an appointment to preach one week-night, in a large bar-room on Moor's Flat, in the mountains.  The congregation assembled early, and spent an hour in playing ball.  When the bell rang for preaching the mass of the audience assembled on the porch, and "cracked jokes," and sang lewd songs, with the design, I thought, of intimidating the preacher.  After letting them conduct the exercises in that way for a few minutes, I said: "Hold <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In July, 1855, I spent a Sabbath in New Orleans, a beautiful mining town, high up in the mountains of California.  It was said that a copy of the anti-gambling law, which had been passed at the late session of the Legislature, had not been forwarded to the authorities in that place, and therefore did not take effect in New Orleans, in consequence of which it was said that nearly all the gamblers of those mountains had assembled in that town to carry on their business.  During my short stay with them I preached four times in the streets, and once in a private house.  They listened to me in the street three times with marked respect and attention, but when, on Sunday afternoon, I took the street, and commenced to sing them up for a fourth hearing, they seemed to think that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>As I was engaged in drawing the crowd with the second song, the fellows next "got up" a dog-fight, and at it they went hissing and whooping, when I said, "Run, boys, run!  We are all seeking enjoyment, and trying to be happy!  There's a rare opportunity!  You are under a high excitement of animal feeling!  A glorious entertainment that!  What an intellectual feast it must be to enlightened, high-minded American gentlemen, to see a couple of dogs fight!"  By that time I had the last man of them, and the good-natured dogs, having nobody to prompt them, concluded not to fight, and trotted away together; but their prompters all remained to listen, and I proceeded, saying: "Gentlemen, I do not blame you for seeking enjoyment, and for trying to be happy.  God, who made us, and endowed us with wonderful powers of intellect and heart, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:designed us to be happy, and hence this insatiable thirst for happiness which constitutes the mainspring of human action.  The difference between us is in regard to the source whence we may derive substantial happiness, whence the demands of these quenchless longings of our souls may be met.  You have tried a great many sources, money making and money spending, rum drinking and gambling, with occasional boy and dog fights.  Bills were posted all through your streets last week, promising a rich treat for immortal souls, on the Fourth of July, in American Valley.  The intellectual feast to commence with a fight between a bull and a grizzly bear.  The second course to consist of a `magnificent dinner,' and as much whisky as could be desired at two bits a `nip.'  The third course to consist of music and dancing among the men, (ladies were very scarce,) which might be protracted till every soul was satisfied.  Your undying spirits were so hungry and restless that you could not let such an opportunity pass, so away you went to American Valley.  To your great disappointment, the bull and bear had determined to remain friends, and would not fight.  The dinner was good, the whisky was very bad, but you thought you would make it up in the ballroom, so you kicked round there for a few hours, and, stopping to rest your poor bodies, you looked within to see if your souls were happy.  Poor souls' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>I believe that God's Holy Spirit applied the truth, and touched many of their hearts, for some of them wept like children, and all listened with great apparent interest.  I ask pardon for giving here more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In conclusion, I will add that, after all, you should make up your mind, as a street preacher, to be considered and called "a fool" for Christ's sake, and to be grinned at by the scorner, gazed at by the multitude, "sighted" at by gentlemen through hand-glasses, double-barreled spy-glasses, and large telescopes; to be sworn at by ruffians, and to be slandered by many you call your friends.  But never mind, trust in God, and do your duty.  Rely for success alone, both for the use of means and the attainment of desirable ends, upon the merit and intercessions of Jesus Christ, and the Divine efficiency of the Holy Spirit, and you will praise God through eternal ages that you were, by his grace, enabled to "preach the Gospel to the poor" in "the streets and lanes of the city," and in "the highways and hedges.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>FIRST PREACHING ON THE PLAZA.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON the third of December, 1849, I announced to the congregation in "Our little church on the hill," that at three P.M. of that day I would preach in the open air, on Portsmouth Square, known more familiarly as the Plaza.  It was regarded by most persons present, if not all, as a very dangerous experiment; for the gamblers were a powerful and influential party in the city, and the Plaza was their principal rendezvous, and Sunday the best day of the seven for their business.  The Plaza was nearly surrounded by gambling and drinking houses.  The gamblers occupied the best houses in the city, and had them furnished in the most magnificent style.  Each house employed a band of the best music the country could afford.  R. Beeching, a member of our Church, being a good musician, was offered thirty dollars per night to play in one of them, which, as a true man, though poor and out of employment at the time, he declined.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The walls of these houses were hung with splendid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:paintings; "the tables" contained "piles" of gold and silver; the musicians occupied a high platform in the rear end of the saloon; the "needful" was served out by "a gentleman of the bar," in one corner, near the entrance, where many a jolly circle drank to each other's health the deadly draught.  These places, especially at night, all night, and on Sunday, were crowded with moving masses of humanity, of every age and complexion.  So powerful was this class of men in the city, that I do not remember of ever hearing of one of them, in those days, being arrested, even for murder.  Now, should a poor preacher presume to go into their midst, and interfere with their business, by thrilling every house with the songs of Zion and the peals of Gospel truth, he would be likely to wake up the lion in his lair!  When the appointed hour arrived I took with me my "sweet singer in Israel," the partner of my youth, who has stood by me in every battle; and down I went to the field of action.  I selected for my pulpit a carpenter's work-bench, which stood in front of one of the largest gambling-houses in the city.  I got Mrs. T. and another lady or two comfortably seated, in care of a good brother, and taking the stand, I sung on a high key,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Hear the royal proclamation,<LB>The glad tidings of salvation,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:Publishing to every creature,<LB>To the ruin'd sons of nature,<LB>Jesus reigns, he reigns victorious<LB>Over heaven and earth most glorious.<LB>"Jesus reigns," etc.</HI>
109.sgm:<P>The novelty of the thing had a moving effect.  The people crowded out of the gambling-houses, and gathered together from every direction, as though they had heard the cry, "Fire! fire! fire!"  By the time the echoes of the song had died on the breeze, I was surrounded by a dense crowd, to whom I introduced the object of my mission, as follows: "Gentlemen, if our friends in the Atlantic states, with the views and feelings they entertained of California society when I left there, had heard that there was to be preaching this afternoon on Portsmouth Square, in San Francisco, they would have predicted disorder, confusion, and riot; but we, who are here, believe very differently.  One thing is certain, there is no man who loves to see those stars and stripes floating on the breeze, (pointing to the flag of our Union,) and who loves the institutions fostered under them; in a word, there's no true American but will observe order under the preaching of God's word anywhere, and maintain it, if need be.  We shall have order, gentlemen.  I apprehend that for the last twelve months at least, you have all been figuring under the rule of `loss and gain.'  In your tedious voyage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Every man present was for that hour "a true American."  Perfect order was observed, and profound attention given to every sentence of the sermon that followed.  The warrant for street preaching in San Francisco was thus acknowledged, and the precedent of good order, under the preaching of the word in these "highways," was thus established.  That sermon proved to be the first of a series of nearly six hundred sermons preached in these streets, the confluence of all the various creeds, and isms, and notions, and feelings, and prejudices of the representatives of all the nations, Christian and heathen.  And yet, through the restraining providence of Him who sent me, and the good common sense of the people of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>PRIMITIVE CLASS-MEETINGS IN SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN the early days of Methodism in this city, I had a general class-meeting in the chapel every Sunday afternoon, at which there were usually present from fifty to ninety persons.  There was then but one "charge" in the city: no "North," no "South," no party differences nor jealousies of any kind.  There was a constant stream of emigration flowing in through our "golden gate" from every part of the world.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The city was small, so that the "royal proclamation," sounding out from the Plaza every Sunday, tapped the drum of nearly every man's ears in town.  All the Methodist passengers, and multitudes besides, immediately showed their faces.  After proclaiming to them a crucified and risen Jesus, I always announced the appointments for preaching and class-meeting in our "church on the hill."  Hence the size and variety of our class-meetings.  As a specimen, I extract in substance the following notice from my journal, dated Sunday, February 3d, 1850:</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"There were in class to-day about ninety persons, witnesses for Jesus from almost all parts of the United States, from Maine to Texas; and from Buenos Ayres in South America; from Costa Rica in Central America; from Prince Edward's Island; from England, Scotland, and Ireland; from Germany, Sweden, and Denmark; from North Wales, New South Wales, and New Zealand.  They all uttered distinctly the shibboleth of Methodism and told the same story of `redemption through the blood of Jesus, even the forgiveness of their sins.'</P>
109.sgm:<P>"A very common inquiry in the mouths of Wesleyan Methodists from England and her colonies was, `Do you belong to the Church that Mr. Wesley established in America--the Church of Mr. Asbury and Dr. Coke?'  So soon as they heard the answer, `Yes,' they immediately extended the `right hand of fellowship' for another greeting, and, with tearful smiles, uttered with great emotion, `God bless you.  It is quite an unexpected pleasure to meet you here.'  An observing stranger, beholding the scene, would have said, `No doubt there is a meeting of two brothers, sons of the same mother, who have not seen each other for twenty years.'  And brothers we were with a free good-will, bound together by bonds of mutual sympathy and Christian affection stronger than ties of blood, though we had never seen each other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>At the class-meeting above referred to, an old gentleman, with a long, gray beard, by the name of Livesey, (I do not remember that I learned his Christian name,) arose and shouted the praise of Jesus, and thanked God for full salvation "through the blood of the Lamb."  He thanked God, also, for Methodist class-meetings, which, for thirty years, had always been seasons of refreshing to his soul.  Thirty years ago from that day he had obtained the forgiveness of his sins, and had never turned his back on Jesus.  Heard Dr. Adam Clarke preach a sermon on " <HI REND="italics">Hope</HI>
109.sgm:," "Which hope he had as an anchor of the soul, both sure and steadfast."  Had always been a firm believer in the doctrine of holiness as taught by Mr. Wesley, and yet, continued he, "strange as it may appear, I never obtained an evidence that I was <HI REND="italics">wholly</HI>
109.sgm: sanctified till last Tuesday night.  I was aboard ship in the harbor out there, and while all hands were locked in sleep, and nothing was heard but the dash of the waves against the sides of our vessel, my soul was waiting upon God, in an unusual exercise of prayer and faith in Christ, when the power of the Holy Spirit came upon me as I never felt it before.  I realized an application of the all-cleansing blood of Jesus to my heart, and that I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>The old man took his seat with subdued utterances of "Glory! glory! glory be to God!"</P>
109.sgm:<P>After that meeting I saw his face no more.  During that week he left the city on business, and word came back that his vessel was capsized in the San Joakin River, and that the good old brother was drowned.  Never learning anything to the contrary, and receiving additional confirmatory evidence of the truth of the rumor, I settled on the conclusion that God, who buried the body of Moses in some unknown spot "over against Beth-peor," had deposited the body of Father Livesey in some one of the mighty eddies of the San Joakin River "until the redemption of the purchased possession."  His spirit, we doubt not, has gone to bathe in that "pure river of water of life, clear as crystal, proceeding out of the throne of God and the Lamb."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Although I had but a very limited acquaintance with Father Livesey, his image is very distinctly defined in my memory, and I believe I shall recognize him on the other side of Jordan, when, through the great mercy of God, I shall have reached that shore, and shall hear from his own lips the mysterious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>At the class-meeting in question many thrilling experiences were related.  At least six persons bore clear a testimony to the all-cleansing efficacy of the blood of Jesus applied to their own hearts.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>MY FIRST PREACHING IN THE STREETS OF SACRAMENTO CITY.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I SPENT the first Sabbath of October, 1850, in Sacramento City, and had the privilege of preaching three times in our "Baltimore California Chapel," so called because our kind Baltimore friends framed it, and paid for it, and sent it to California.  It was destroyed by fire about three years since, but the Sunday school organized in it in 1849, now (July, 1856) numbers upward of three hundred scholars.  In the afternoon of the said Sabbath day, I selected a goods-box on the "levee" for a pulpit, and opened my commission for the first time in the streets of that city.  While singing the "royal proclamation," two men rode up near to where I stood.  I never learned their names, but, for convenience, will call them Bacchus and Fairplay.  Bacchus was pretty drunk, and began to yell and make a great ado.  Judge W. and a few others took hold of his mule's bridle, and tried to lead him away.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Let me alone," cried Bacchus.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"Let go his bridle," said Fairplay.  "This is a public street, and you have no business to interfere with him.  Let him go, I tell you.  If you don't let him go I'll see that you pay dearly for it."  And many other hard threats were uttered by Mr. Fairplay.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The singing, which had been continued without interruption, together with the strife and hallooing of the drunken man, attracted an immense crowd.  When the opening hymn was ended, Judge W. and his companion had gotten Bacchus off to the distance of about thirty yards, and had about equally divided the crowd.  At that moment I called to the judge and his company, saying: "If you please, gentlemen, let him go, and I'll take care of him."  But they had become so zealous in the matter that they seemed determined to drag him away, and would not let him go.  By the time I had sung another song of Zion, they had gone but a few feet further off, and had half the audience, who appeared to be more interested in the fate of the drunken man than in the songs of the preacher.  I then called to them again, and said: "Gentlemen, you had better take my advice.  If you will let that man go, I will send him away in one minute.  I am surprised at you Sacramento folks.  Come down to San Francisco, and attend preaching on the Plaza next Sunday afternoon at three o'clock, and I'll show you how to behave.  Men naturally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>With that they let Bacchus's mule go.  I then addressed his threatening, storming companion, Fairplay, and said: "I deliver that man up to you, sir; I want you to take charge of him, and lead him away.  Take good care of him, if you please."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir," said he, "I will," tipping his hat as he made his best bow, and immediately led him away.  The whole crowd then gathered round me, and I said, "Gentlemen, some of my friends here say that it is getting too late for preaching this afternoon; that by the time I get under way the supper `gongs' and bells will ring, and that you will all run off to supper.  I have some very important things to say to you, and I will have done before the tea gets cold.  Now you had better stay and hear me out, and my friends here will find that they are not so good at guessing as they thought they were.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I then announced as my text, "Godliness is profitable unto all things, having promise of the life that now is, and of that which is to come."  The preliminary exercises seemed to have raised the temper of their minds to an impressible state, and the power of God's Holy Spirit manifestly attended the word.  Many eyes unused to weeping, gave forth their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>STARVATION IN AN EX-CITY HOSPITAL.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN the month of February, 1850, the "City Council" made a contract with Dr. S., by which all the sick of what had been known as the "City Hospital," kept by Dr. M., should be removed to a new hospital, fitted up by Dr. S., on the corner of Clay and Powel streets.  Dr. M. said that the term of his contract with the city for the care of her sick had not expired, and that he would not give up the patients, and that he would institute suit against the city for breach of contract and payment for the care he should subsequently give to all the sick he could retain in his hospital.  The "alcalde"--before we had a mayor--sent an order to Dr. M.'s hospital, requiring the sick to leave and repair to Dr. S.'s hospital, otherwise they would get no support or care from the city.  Dr. M. told them to stay with him, and he would see that the city should support them, otherwise he would support them himself.  More than half the patients obeyed the order; the rest remained in care of Dr. M.  As the prospects of Dr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>That night we had a meeting of the Executive Committee of the "Strangers' Friend Society," which had been organized in our chapel on the fifteenth of January, 1850, and in which all the Protestant Churches in the city were represented, and through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:which many sufferers were relieved during that very severe winter.  At this meeting we appropriated the necessary funds for the relief of the said sufferers till they could be removed to the other hospital.  J. B. Bond, son of the late Dr. Thomas E. Bond, of precious memory, was appointed a committee to wait on the alcalde, and make arrangements for their immediate removal.  We had with us then an old gentleman by the name of Alfred Roberts, who came to California for the avowed purpose of devoting all his time to waiting on the sick gratuitously, and who spent his time accordingly.  He was entirely without money himself, and yet made many, if not rich, at least comfortable in their destitution.  He would accept no reward for his services, and yet all his wants were supplied.  The said funds of the Strangers' Friend Society were placed in the hands of Brother Roberts, with orders to go the next morning, and supply the patients with whatever they needed, till they could be taken to Dr. S.'s hospital.  About two o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, namely, the seventh of March, I went to see Brother Bond, to ascertain how he was succeeding with the alcalde, and learned from him that his efforts had not been successful; that while the alcalde had no objection to their going to the new hospital, he would not recognize their present relation as city patients, for the reason that Dr. M. would take advantage of that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>I employed Dr. Hill, and went to examine the sick men, and there learned, to my astonishment, that they had had no food or medicine for twenty-four hours; that Dr. M. had forbidden Brother Roberts to bring anything into the hospital for the patients.  His object seemed to be, to force the alcalde to remove them from his hospital, and thus tacitly acknowledge them as city patients.  He remarked to Roberts that "if he allowed them to be fed and cared for in his hospital, he never would get rid of them."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I presented Dr. Hill's certificates to the alcalde, and pleaded for the poor fellows' lives, but he said he would have nothing to do with them while they remained in that hospital.  By this time it was nearly night.  House room was very scarce in the city in those days, and bedding for so many men could hardly be found anywhere, except in the hospitals and hotels.  Hotel keepers would have nothing to do with hospital patients.  The poor sick men, worn down by disease and hunger, seemed to forebode the worst that could befall them.  Old Captain Baxter had braved the thunder of a thousand storms, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>William Orr was an Englishman, from the West Indies.  He had large, keen black eyes, and silver locks of hair, and looked as venerable as a bishop.  During his many weary weeks in the hospital, he had frequently sent for an old acquaintance, a wealthy man from the West Indies; but his "familiar friend, in whom he trusted," would not see him.  Mr. Orr said to me, concerning his friend, "When G.'s rich uncle in C., who had an estate to be inherited, was in his last illness, G. never left his bedside, day or night; and if I had property, as I once had, he would come very quickly; but he is afraid I might ask him for assistance."  The old gentleman was generally calm and self-possessed, but this strait seemed too much for his feelings, and he said, "Well, have I come to this at last?  Could I ever have believed it?  O, Christ, have pity upon me in my low estate!"</P>
109.sgm:<P>Near him lay Thomas Crosby.  He had the dropsy; his body was as big as a barrel, and he had occasional spells of suffocation, from which it seemed impossible for him to rally; but he was triumphant, and spent his time in laughing, and weeping, and praising God.  "O what a precious Saviour I have found," he would say.  "Glory be to Jesus!  I shall soon be done with pain and sorrow!  I shall see Jesus!"  I believe he was nominally a Roman Catholic, but he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>I mention these cases as specimens of the scene.  But the question was: "What shall be done to relieve these sufferers?"  I obtained from Dr. M. the loan of the cots and beds they occupied for one night.  I rented a house in the neighborhood, and hiring some help, we took up the beds with the patients on them, "and walked" to our "hired house," where our friend Roberts provided everything possible for their comfort, and took care of them through the night.  The next day, by a little maneuvering with the alcalde, to dodge a technicality, I succeeded in getting them all into Dr. S.'s hospital, where most of them afterward died.</P>
109.sgm:<P>C. C. Kindred, and I believe two or three others, recovered.  Captain Baxter often spoke of his pious wife, "as good an old woman as ever lived," and how for many years she had been praying for him.  He only wished that he were as good as she.  He was sincerely penitent.</P>
109.sgm:<P>James F. Dixon was from Louisiana.  He professed religion several weeks before his death, and seemed to be fully ready.  Crosby went home shouting.  G. M. left the world swearing.  Joseph M. Gustin was happy in God, and had a peaceful hour in which to die.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I took great pains to point each of them to "the Lamb of God that taketh away the sin of the world," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>A BROADSIDE UPON THE ARMY OF THE ALIENS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday afternoon, the 5th of May, 1850, I took my stand upon the porch of the "Old Adobe," on the Plaza, and after singing up a crowd of about a thousand persons, I announced as my text, the fourth and fifth verses of the one hundred and fortieth Psalm.  "Keep me, O Lord, from the hands of the wicked; preserve me from the violent man; who have purposed to overthrow my goings.  The proud have hid a snare for me, and cords; they have spread a net by the wayside; they have set gins for me."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Before me lay a vast scene of desolation; for on the day preceding, at four o'clock in the morning, the dwellers of our city were aroused from their slumbers by the cry, "Fire! fire! fire!"  It commenced in the United States House, on the east side of the Plaza, within a few feet of where a fire broke out in December, 1849, in the midst of the "gambling hells."</P>
109.sgm:<P>For an hour or more, nearly everybody seemed to stand back aghast, and silently watch the devouring element, as it swept block after block of the best <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In the elucidation and application of the text announced, the Lord assisted me greatly in exposing the snares, and pits, and gins, (gambling-houses, grogshops, and houses of prostitution,) and the wicked "and violent" men employed, with all their deceitful, attractive appliances and "cords."</P>
109.sgm:<P>While special thunder was thus being dealt out, a man on horseback gathered a crowd on the opposite side of the Plaza, and marched up, as though he intended to make a charge upon us.  But the truth, peal after peal, continued to mount the wings of the wind, and make the sinners quake in its onward flight, so that our opposing general, by the time he reached the outer circle of our crowd, was awe-struck, and beat a quick retreat, leaving his men in our hands, who remained quiet and orderly listeners till they were regularly dismissed.  We warned the people to beware of those snares, and pits, and wicked men, and urged them, as their only sure means of safety, to adopt the Psalmist's prayer, "Keep me, O Lord, from the hands of the wicked; preserve me from the violent man," etc.  The power of the Lord was graciously manifest on the occasion.  The day of eternity will exhibit the fruit.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE IRISH SAILOR'S DILEMMA.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday night, the tenth of March, 1850, at the close of sermon in our "Little Church on the Hill," an Irish sailor came to the altar, in presence of the congregation, and said he wanted a word with the captain, meaning the preacher.  I shook his hand, and asked him what I could do for him.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Said he: "I want you to teach me.  My mother was a poor widow, as are the mothers of a large proportion of sailors, and she didn't know what to do with me.  She couldn't take care of me, nor teach me, so she sent me to sea when I was a little boy.  I have been to sea ever since.  I am now thirty years old, and have niver had ony teaching.  Now, I want your riverence to teach me."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"You have learned to use strong drink occasionally, have you not?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O, yes; I takes a wee drap sometimes."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"And you've learned to swear too, I suppose?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O, yes, sir, I've been a very bad man; but now I wants you to teach me how to be a good man."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>I then explained to him his wretched condition as a sinner, and gave him a few lessons in "the first principles of the oracles of God," and urged him to fall out with his sins, and renounce them forever, and accept of mercy through a crucified Saviour.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I thank your riverence for your good advice.  I'll try from this very hour, and do as you say."</P>
109.sgm:<P>He turned away and went immediately out of the church; but within two or three minutes he returned and said:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Your riverence, you'll pardon me, but I've thought of another thing I want you to tell me about.  I've heard that the Bible says, if a man strike ye on one cheek, you must turn round and let him strike the other!  Now, does it say so?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"That is the doctrine," I replied, "that Jesus taught his disciples; but that is a hard lesson for you to learn now.  If you will practice the lessons I have given you, and pray to God in the name of Jesus Christ until you obtain the pardon of all your sins, you will love God so much for his great mercy to you, that you will not feel like fighting an enemy.  You will feel that as God has forgiven you so many thousands of sins, you, too, can forgive those who trespass against you.  And then, you will be so anxious to have everybody get acquainted with Jesus, that you will want to pray for your enemies, that they may find pardon too."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"But," said he, "if a man knocks me down tonight on my way home, what must I do?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"You need not distress yourself," I replied; "if you go along and attend to your own business, nobody will trouble you.  And if you earnestly seek God, as you have promised to do, he will take care of you, and will not let such a hard trial come upon you at the start."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"But faith, and maybe he might strike me tonight on my chake, (cheek;) then I must turn the other chake, and let him bang away at that, ah?  That's hard."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I tried to impress on his mind the importance of learning one thing at a time, and not to perplex his mind with the hard lessons at the last of the book till he had learned all before them.  I presume he "shipped" the next day.  I have not seen him since.</P>
109.sgm:<P>How many, alas! who have enjoyed all the advantages of a Christian education, and who have even "tasted the good word of God, and the powers of the world to come," fall into the Irish sailor's dilemma, and take the "wrong horn," moreover, by returning evil for evil.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>"THEY'LL THINK I'M A THIEF."</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN the fall of 1850, an intelligent Swedish sailor was one Sunday afternoon attracted to the Plaza by one of the street preacher's songs.  The words of truth, which fell on his ear on that occasion, so affected his heart, that he determined to follow the preacher, and see where he dwelt.  He did not then make himself known to the preacher, but followed close after him till he saw his residence, and the church in which he preached.  That night he attended preaching in that church.  After sermon an invitation was given, as usual, for all persons who desired to seek salvation and become acquainted with Jesus, to come forward to the altar.  A soldier, late from the Mexican war, who had been awakened on the Plaza, immediately presented himself at the altar as a penitent.  He was converted to God, and afterward became a zealous Christian and a local minister.</P>
109.sgm:<P>When our sailor saw the soldier go forward, he said to himself, "O, I wish I could go there too, but if I go there they'll think I am a thief, and I never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In Sweden all are taught to read and write, and at a certain age, upon a repetition of the Catechism from memory, and satisfactory examination as to character, are all admitted into the Established (Lutheran) Church.  Thus the whole nation receives the elements of an intellectual and moral education, and becomes, at least nominally, Christian.  Our nation might draw some useful practical lessons on education from old Sweden, especially as to the moral training of all her children.  But when a Swede becomes guilty of theft, the penalty of the law is first executed upon him; he is then conducted to church, and is placed by the minister in a conspicuous part of the house, where he is questioned by the minister, who, after receiving promises of reformation, calls the attention of the congregation to him, and bespeaks their forgiveness and sympathy, and asks an interest in their prayers on behalf of the poor thief.  Our sailor friend had seen this operation in his father-land, and thinking that the same rule applied everywhere, concluded that if he went to a Methodist altar, it would expose him to the unjust charge of theft.  So he went not.  The following Tuesday night he attended class-meeting at "our house on Jackson-street."  Near the close of the meeting he arose and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:said: "My dear friends, I am blind; I cannot see.  O, the horrors of this darkness that settles down on my soul!  I feel that I am a dreadful sinner, and I am afraid there is no mercy for me!  You who are near to Jesus, please speak to him for me.  I'm so far away, he won't hear me, but if you will speak to him for me, he may hear you, and have pity on me."  So we all kneeled down and spoke to Jesus for him.  Two days afterward he found Jesus, and became a sincere disciple.  We have often been much delighted and edified by his experience in Divine things, and original expositions of Scripture, an example of which I here submit.  One night, at a meeting convened by a regular weekly appointment to talk and pray together on the subject of holiness, our Swedish brother arose in his place, and said: "My brethren, I was just thinking of what Jesus said to Peter: `Simon, Simon, behold, Satan hath desired to have you, that he may sift you as wheat: but I have prayed for thee, that thy faith fail not.'  The Saviour does not tell him that he should not be sifted, but gives him to understand that he should be sifted, but adds: `I have prayed for thee, that thy faith fail not.'  Satan hath desired to sift us also, and we may all expect to be sifted, but Jesus hath prayed for us.  The exercise of faith in him brings holiness, and holiness expands the soul, so that when we are sifted, we will not fall through the sieve.  Without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>PREACHING IN A GAMBLING-HOUSE.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON the twenty-ninth day of January, 1851, a man called on me to attend the funeral of Charles B., a gambler, who, in a quarrel with a fellow-gambler the night preceding, was shot dead.  "I think it a pity," said the man, "to bury the poor fellow without having some religious ceremonies said over him; and it will be a comfort to his friends."</P>
109.sgm:<P>He was laid out just where he was killed, in the "Parker House," on the east side of the Plaza.  Taking my stand near the corpse, I sung:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"That awful day will surely come,<LB>Th' appointed hour makes haste,<LB>When I must stand before my Judge,<LB>And pass the solemn test.<LB>"Jesus, thou source of all my joys,<LB>Thou ruler of my heart,<LB>How could I bear to hear thy voice<LB>Pronounce the word, "Depart!"<LB>"The thunder of that awful word<LB>Would so torment my ear,<LB>'Twould tear my soul asunder, Lord,<LB>With most tormenting fear.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:"What, to be banish'd from my Lord,<LB>And yet forbid to die?<LB>To linger in eternal pain,<LB>And death forever fly?<LB>"O, wretched state of deep despair,<LB>To see my God remove,<LB>And fix my doleful station where<LB>I must not taste his love!"</HI>
109.sgm:<P>The singing and the occasion drew together nearly three hundred men, who stood uncovered before me.  I announced as my text the last two verses of the book of Ecclesiastes: "Let us hear the conclusion of the whole matter: Fear God, and keep his commandments, for this is the whole duty of man.  For God shall bring every work into judgment, with every secret thing, whether it be good, or whether it be evil."  I then remarked as follows:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Gentlemen, I always endeavor, in my public discourses, to adapt my remarks, so far as I can, to my audience.  I take it for granted that the greater portion, if not all of you, are sportsmen; as such I shall address you.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"`The conclusion of the whole matter,' the great summary of life's duties, what is it?  `Fear God, and keep his commandments.'  Do you understand it?  You are not a set of ignoramuses.  I know, from your appearance, that you have had early educational advantages.  Some of you have had pious mothers to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:instruct you, and many of you, I doubt not, have been brought up in the Sabbath school, and you have all had the opportunity of reading the word of God, and of hearing it preached, from your boyhood to the present hour.  You cannot plead ignorance.  You know your duty: to `keep his commandments.'  How comprehensive the commandments of God, embracing every duty growing out of the relations we sustain to God and to each other!  Had you given your hearts to God, believed in Jesus Christ, received the regenerating power of his grace in your souls, and were you, to-day, consecrated to his service, what happy men you would be!  What an influence you might wield for God and his holy cause in California; help to build up good society, and to make this fair land a safe and happy home for your wives and children.  The little boys and girls now growing up in our midst would repeat your names with grateful hearts, and call you blessed, when your bodies are beneath the ground, and your souls happy in the abode of angels and of God.  But what are you about?  What are you doing here in California?  Look at that bloody corpse!  What will his mother say?  What will his sisters think of it?  To die in a distant land, among strangers, is bad; to die unforgiven, suddenly, unexpectedly, is worse; to be shot down in a gambling-house, at the midnight hour--O, horrible!  And yet this is the legitimate fruit of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Again, look at its influence upon society.  The unwary are decoyed and ruined.  Little boys, charmed by your animating music, dazzled by the magnificent paraphernalia of your saloons, are enticed, corrupted, and destroyed, to the hopeless grief of their mothers, whose wailings will be entered against you in the book of God.  Remember that `for all these things God will bring you into judgment.'  `For God shall bring every work into judgment, with every secret thing, whether it be good or whether it be evil.'"</P>
109.sgm:<P>Every gambler listened with profound attention, and then formed the largest funeral procession, I believe, that I had, up to that time, ever witnessed in San Francisco.  They returned, I presume, to their cards.  One of them afterward said to a friend of mine: "That Plaza preacher is the strangest man I ever saw.  He preached B.'s funeral, and said everything in this world he could think of against us, and yet he did not give us any chance to get hold of him!"  He then paused a few moments, and, turning on his heel, said, "O J--s! didn't he give it to us?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>Five years afterward, when I was traveling in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO IN AN UPROAR.</P>
109.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, twenty-third of February, 1851, was a day of great excitement in the city.  It was ascertained that there was a large organized band of thieves and robbers in California in those days, operating at the same time in different parts of the state, yet all acting in concert.  Men were knocked down and robbed in the streets, in the twilight; and stores and safes were broken open almost dayly.  The night preceding the date above, a respectable clothing merchant, by the name of Janson, (now of the firm of Janson &amp; Bond,) was knocked down behind his counter with a "slung shot;" and it was then thought that he could not recover.  Two men, by the names of Windred and Stuart, were arrested on Sunday morning, and lodged in jail, as the supposed perpetrators of the deed.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The public forbearance, which had been taxed to the last point of endurance, now gave way to one almost universal burst of indignation.  The people gathered round the jail to the number of about ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Good order and great seriousness prevailed.  Windred afterward broke the jail, and cleared himself; Stuart was cleared by the courts.  But the "Vigilance Committee of 1851" was organized as the result of these frequent robberies, and the inefficiency of the courts; and they executed some, and banished others to parts unknown.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>CITY HOSPITAL ON FIRE.</P>
109.sgm:<P>HOW dreadful, in the stillness of the third watch of the night, is the cry, "Fire! fire! fire!" and the ringing of alarm-bells in all the wards of a large city.  A livery stable full of horses in flames.  Shocking!  A mother and her infant in the third story of a building enveloped in fire; and the returning husband wringing his hands in phrensy.  What a dreadful scene!  Here, at the dead hour of night, a hospital, built of wood, on fire.  It will consume to ashes in thirty minutes.  In it are one hundred and thirty men--sick men--many of whom are unable to raise their heads from their pillows.  No time for talk.  Rush in, ye friends of suffering humanity.  Let the strong men carry out the patients; take bed and all.  Thus, in a few minutes, about half an acre of ground was strewed with mattresses, blankets, and dying men.  The first thing was to get the sick off the damp ground on to the "cots," and provide covering to keep them from chilling to death in the night air.  The next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>A number of the patients were men who had been blown up, thirty-five hours before, in the explosion of the steamer "Sagamore."  Some had broken limbs, and others were badly scalded.  Some of them, on Monday, the twenty-eighth, had taken passage, in the City of Stockton, on board the steamer "Mariposi," to attend the celebration of the "admission of California into the Union," which took place on Tuesday, the twenty-ninth, in this city.  On their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE PREACHING THAT KILLED THE PLAZA CLOWN.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday afternoon, February 2, 1851, as I stood on the porch of the "Old Adobe," and sung up a thousand men, a good-looking fellow affected to act the clown.  It was a clear, cool afternoon, but our clown came up with an old umbrella spread over him.  In his right hand was a lantern, and in his left side-pocket a loaf of bread.  Thus distinguished, after strutting round the circle of the audience, he came on the porch, near where I stood, lowered his umbrella, and tried to sing.  I marked him in my mind, but said nothing.  My text on the occasion was, "Let the wicked forsake his way."  The first point was, Why should the wicked forsake his way?  1.  Because the way of the wicked is exceedingly offensive to God.  2.  It is most hideous and hateful in itself.  Familiarity with it, and love for it, might blind and deceive us, but did not soften or change its nature.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Vice is a monster of so frightful mien,<LB>That to be hated needs but to be seen;<LB>Yet seen too oft, familiar with her face,<LB>We first endure, then pity, then embrace."</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>3.  It is utterly ruinous in its effects to every interest of our souls, in time, in eternity.  These points were duly illustrated and applied.  One illustration used, showing how sin degraded the ennobling faculties with which God had endowed our souls, and disqualified us for the pure associations and spiritual delights of heaven, would be regarded by many persons as too ludicrous for a religious meeting; but the application was so direct on this occasion that the effect was good.  It ran as follows: "On a trip to San Jose&acute; last week, in the steamer Star, our boat ran aground, and kept us there in the mud till after midnight.  We had as passengers an alderman, a doctor, a general, a senator, a captain, and a high private, six high-minded, distinguished men, honorables of the land, noble spirits of the earth; none of your dull, sleepy fellows, you may be sure.  (Colonel J. C. Fremont was aboard, but would not drink nor participate in any revelry.)</P>
109.sgm:<P>"While detained on the bar, they must have some appropriate enjoyment for the evening.  The tastes and habits of such distinguished men furnish an example for all the boys of the land, and we should expect from such a source examples pure and elevating.  Well, how did they spend the evening?  The general said, `Steward, have you got any good whisky?'  `Yes, sir.'  `Well, now, get us up a good bowl of whisky punch.'  `Ay, ay, sir.'  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>The second division of the discourse exhibited the means of escape from the way of the wicked, urged by a variety of arguments.  I took occasion to give the clown his "portion in due season," and when the Doxology was sung, he came to me trembling and and weeping, and said:</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"Can you tell me what I am to do?  I am a gambler and a drunkard,and a miserable sinner.  I had a good mother, but she is dead, and I have no doubt that she is in heaven to-day. O, I am afraid there is no hope for me."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I took him by the hand and said: "If you go on in your present course, you will never see your mother again.  But if you will quit gambling and drinking, and come out from your wicked associates, and attend church, read your Bible, and pray, and seek religion through the merits of Jesus Christ, you will yet be saved, and meet your mother in heaven.  `Let the wicked forsake his way.'  Will you do it?  Will you do it now?  The Lord in mercy help you."</P>
109.sgm:<P>The poor fellow was greatly distressed, and I gave him a good deal of earnest talk about his soul, but I saw him no more.  He probably, with half of my audience, left the city the next day for the mines.  There are hundreds of men in the mines who have heard no preaching in California except what they have heard on the Plaza in this city.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>HELPED TO A TEXT BY THE THIEF THAT STOLE MY MONEY.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Saturday night, the fifteenth of February, 1851, I walked down town a few minutes, in company with Mrs. Taylor, on some business, and when we returned found that a thief had been into the house, and had opened trunks, turned over beds, and done a great amount of housework in the short time we had been absent.  He stole, in money, about forty dollars.  The next day, on the Plaza, I announced as my text the nineteenth and twentieth verses of the sixth chapter of Matthew.  I read the text thus: "Lay up for yourselves treasures upon earth, where moth and rust doth corrupt, and where thieves break through and steal.  But lay not up for yourselves treasures in heaven, where neither moth nor rust doth corrupt, and where thieves do not break through nor steal."  I had a large audience, and they all looked as though they thought I had made a mistake; but I repeated the reading gravely: "Lay up for yourselves treasures upon earth," etc.  Many looked at each other, and some whispered.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>I then remarked, "Gentlemen, many of you were taught to read the Bible by your pious mothers, some of whom have since died in the faith, and gone home to heaven.  You are all more or less acquainted with the teachings of this blessed book, although I am afraid you have not read it much since you came to California.  The Lord have mercy on you.  But you all conclude that the preacher made a mistake in reading the text.  Now, I tell you, one of two things is true in regard to the matter: either, first, I have read it correctly, or, second, nine tenths of you are involved in a most shameful inconsistency of life; for you carry out, with the greatest possible earnestness, the teachings of the text as I have read it.</P>
109.sgm:<P>What is your business here in California?  For what have you left your parents and friends, your wives and children, and braved the dangers of the deep, and of the desert?  For what have you endured so much privation, and pain, and toil, in the rugged mountains of California?  Is it all to `lay up treasure in heaven, where moth and rust doth not corrupt, and where thieves do not break through nor steal?'  Not a word of it.  That has never entered into your purposes or plans.  It constitutes no part of the object of your toils.  All this privation, and peril, and suffering, and toil, is for the purpose of laying `up treasures on earth, where moth and rust <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>The Spirit of the Lord was graciously present, and many sinners quaked under the discourse that followed.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE HUMAN HEART.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday, the twenty-seventh of April, 1851, at nine o'clock in the forenoon, I preached on the "Long Wharf," from the deck of the steamer "Union;" text: "The heart is deceitful above all things, and desperately wicked."  Some of the arguments and illustrations used on the occasion were as follows: "The human heart may be compared to a jug, and why?  Because we can only ascertain the character of its contents by what comes out of it.  God is looking into your hearts now; but finite vision cannot penetrate the walls of that mysterious source of thought, and feeling, and action, which determines a man's character in the sight of God.  But if we are allowed to judge of fountains by their streams, we have only to look at the foul streams of iniquity which continually flow through our streets to be assured of the character of their sources.  See what profanity; what a desecration of God's holy day; what dreadful havoc is being made by that unrelenting slaughterer of human kind, the rum-seller; see what desolation is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:wrought in the city by the gambling fraternity; see the dreadful prostitution of female virtue; only behold the spirit of lasciviousness and covetousness, like the pall of death, spread over thirty thousand souls in this city!  Our streets are thronged with God-hating, Christ-rejecting, pleasure-taking, sin-loving men and women.  Remember, too, that these dreadful manifestations of the wickedness of the heart are but partial developments of its deep depravity, limited, First: By the restraints which are brought to bear on human conduct: social restraints, legal restraints, and religious restraints.  Second: By the barriers of necessity, which circumscribe man's ability to execute the `devices of his heart.'  Look, for example, at that rum-seller.  The house in which he lives, and from which are the issues of death, once belonged to a man of property and respectability.  He lived there with his happy family; but the wily `gentleman of the bar' took advantage of the moral imbecility of his victim, just as the highwayman takes advantage of the physical imbecility of the man he murders and robs.  He has long since sent his victim's shattered, bloated carcass to a drunkard's grave, and his soul to a drunkard's hell.  His family are in the `poor-house,' dayly shedding fountains of tears more bitter than death.  Now this is the business that man on the corner there follows.  And why does he not treat every family so?  Because he cannot.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE INDEPENDENCE BELL.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN the afternoon of Sunday, April 27, 1851, I had a large audience on the Plaza, to whom I said: "My text is recorded on the old Independence Bell, in the State House in Philadelphia, and reads as follows: `Proclaim liberty throughout all the land, to all the inhabitants thereof.  LEV. xxv, 10.  By order of the Assembly of the Province of Pennsylvania, for the State House in Philadelphia.  Pass &amp; Stow.  Philadelphia, A.D. 1753.'  Young America, just beginning to scribble, thus wrote his name on that old bell, twenty-three years before the tocsin of war called him forth to try his manly muscles in mortal combat with a giant foe.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"On the evening of the great atonement of the Jews, the Jubilee year, that proclamation, sounding from every hill-top in Palestine, and echoing through every vale from Dan to Beersheba, thrilled with gladness the hearts of millions of Abraham's sons and daughters.  It was under the inspiration of the Bible doctrine contained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Behold, to-day, the results of an appropriate, practical application of Bible truth, even politically and civilly considered!  But the institution of the Jubilee typifies a spiritual Jubilee, which, in its provisions and results, transcends all earthly good and earthly glory, as much as the duration and developments of eternity transcend the duration and developments of time.  Our divine Joshua proclaims: `The Spirit of the Lord is upon me, because he hath anointed me to preach the Gospel to the poor.  He hath sent me to heal the broken-hearted, to preach deliverance to the captives, and recovering of sight to the blind: to set at liberty them that are bruised.  To preach the acceptable year of the Lord.'  And he hath sent forth his heralds, charging them to `Go into all the world, and preach the Gospel to every creature.'  This is the character in which I appear before you to-day.</P>
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109.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Sent by my Lord, on you I call;<LB>The invitation is to all:<LB>Come all the world! come, sinner, thou!<LB>All things in Christ are ready now.<LB>"`Come, all ye souls by sin oppress'd,<LB>Ye restless wand'rers after rest;<LB>Ye poor, and maim'd, and halt, and blind,<LB>In Christ a hearty welcome find.'"</HI>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>KING DAVID'S FOOL.</P>
109.sgm:<P>MY Plaza text for Sunday, March 2, 1851, was:  "The fool hath said in his heart, There is no God."  Some of my remarks on that occasion ran as follows:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Here is a watch my father gave me when I was a boy," holding it in my hand.  "He bought it from an old bachelor by the name of Walkup, who, of course, recommended it to be a first-rate watch.  I am not acquainted with its early history, but if I were to tell you that this watch had no maker, that some happy chance formed the different parts of its ingenious machinery, and that another chance put them together with the very useful design of a time-piece, you would call me a fool.  It is said that Sir Isaac Newton had a friend who professed to be an atheist.  Sir Isaac, anticipating a visit from his friend, placed a beautiful new globe where he knew it would arrest the attention of his visitor.  When the atheist saw it he exclaimed with admiration, `Sir Isaac, who made this beautiful globe?'  `O, it was not made at all, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"The Holy Spirit is looking at each one of you now, and listening to every pulsation of your moral heart, and were he now to reveal what has there passed this day, what shocking revelations he would make!  It is not by the profession of the mouth, but by the conduct of men, that we are to learn the orthodoxy of their hearts.  A miserable gambler said to me but a short time since, `When I came to California I had but twenty-five cents; but I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"A wretched rum-seller over here on Jackson-street, had filched the pockets of a poor fellow, wrecked his constitution, blighted all his hopes for time and eternity, unstrung his nervous system, and driven him into delirium tremens; and when his poor victim was dying, the tender-hearted rum-seller, full of sympathy for the suffering, sent in haste for me to come and pray for the poor man.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Why, these gamblers round the Plaza here, whenever they shoot a fellow, go right off for a preacher to pray over their dead.  One who came for me to preach at the funeral of C. B., who had been shot the night before just there in that large saloon, said, `We thought it would be a pity to bury the man without some religious ceremonies.  It will be a comfort to his friends, too, to know that he had a decent Christian burial.'</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I have buried three such within as many months.  They profess a belief in God, but their conduct gives the lie to their profession.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"What is the swearer's notion of God?  Even today my ears have been saluted with the horrid oath.  They do not believe in their hearts that there is a God, and but use his name in ironical contempt, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"See him in nature.  See him in his providential government over men.  See him as revealed in his word.  See his mercy--his justice.  We belong to him.  To him shall we answer for all the sayings of our hearts.  Do you believe in him?  Do you obey him?  Do you love him?  Are you on friendly terms with him to-day?  If not, `We pray you in Christ's stead, be ye reconciled to God.'  Will you sue for pardon and reconciliation now?" etc.</P>
109.sgm:<P>After the benediction, a stranger spoke out, saying, "Gentlemen, you all know how laboriously and successfully Father Taylor labors here on the Plaza from Sabbath to Sabbath.  Now I move that we take up a collection.  I will not urge you to give; I know you are all ready."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Pass along the hat," said one.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Let it come this way," said another.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>`Stop, stop," said I.  "Gentlemen, I am much obliged for your kind feelings, but I never allow a collection to be taken up out doors for my benefit.  I have preaching every Sabbath twice in the church on Powell-street, and all who are so disposed can give there; but you will please do nothing of the kind here.  I cannot have my street preaching trammeled by collections."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I have now preached (July, 1856) about six hundred times in these streets; have occasionally taken up collections for poor men and for building the Bethel, (I collected $400 at one time on the Plaza for the Bethel,) but have never taken up one collection for my own benefit, though often in need.  My reason is, that in the streets I proclaim a free Gospel, "the royal proclamation," to heathens and Christians, to Jews and Gentiles, to Catholics and Protestants, to inhabitants of every nation, and I am unwilling to furnish ground for any of these to impugn my motives, or to say, "He can afford to sing and preach in the streets when he gets a good collection every time."</P>
109.sgm:<P>The Lord, in pity, remember thy unworthy servant in the "day of thy coming."</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE TIME THE LORD DID NOT "KEEP THE CITY," AND WHY--THE GREAT FIRE.</P>
109.sgm:<P>AT eleven o'clock in the night of Saturday, May 3d, 1851, a fire broke out in our city, which raged till nine o'clock in the forenoon of Sunday, the fourth.  It was the most destructive fire by which this city has ever been visited.  The loss was variously estimated from twelve to twenty millions of dollars.  Several hundred passengers had just arrived on the steamship New Orleans, on the evening the fire occurred, and the city was filled with strangers besides, so that it was impossible to tell how many persons perished in the conflagration.  The ashes, it was believed, of six men were found in the ruins of T.'s iron building.  It was said that five of them rushed in to rescue a sick man, who was confined to his bed inside, and when they got back to the door, it was so warped by the heat that they could not open it, and the fire in the street was so great that it was impossible to relieve them.  And there they perished, at the threshold of life.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>Many of the streets were planked, and on each side were wooden sewers, which served as flues to conduct the fire, and greatly facilitated its destructive progress through the city.  Our "Old Adobe" escaped, and at the appointed hour for preaching, I stood in my place on the "porch."  It appeared to be a very unpropitious time for collecting an audience.  The people were running to and fro, under a high pressure of confused excitement, and many were busy in collecting together their little savings from the fire, many tons of which were scattered in tangled confusion all over the Plaza.  I, however, threw out, amid the smoke, and dust, and noise, of the vast field of desolation which was spread out before me, one of Zion's sweetest songs, and drew together about one thousand men.  My text on the occasion was, "Except the Lord build the house, they labor in vain that build it.  Except the Lord keep the city, the watchman waketh but in vain."  "Are we to understand, my hearers, from this text, that it is unnecessary to employ builders or watchmen?  Certainly not.  But having them, and using all the appliances necessary to build up and preserve our city, we must, nevertheless, rely, for success and safety, upon the merciful Providence of God.  `Except the Lord build the house, they labor in <HI REND="italics">vain</HI>
109.sgm: that build it.  Except the <HI REND="italics">Lord keep the city</HI>
109.sgm:, the watchman <HI REND="italics">waketh</HI>
109.sgm: but in <HI REND="italics">vain</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>"When we consider the numerous causes and occasions of fire, the millions of smoking cigar stumps scattered over the city, and how many thousands are recklessly careless in the use of fire, and how many hundreds of malicious spirits, who are, from motives of revenge or a desire to pillage, always ready to fire the city, the wonder is, that the city is not fired every week.  And why is it not?  Because the Lord keeps the city.  He overrules these occasions, either by preventing their application, or by arresting their progress in time to save the city.  It is not necessary for him to work miracles to effect this.  Having absolute control of all the forces and agencies in the universe, save the internal moral exercises of the human will, he can bring his purposes to pass by any of the agencies of human care and precaution, or by the so-called accidents which parenthetically intersperse the whole drama of life.  As I walked out the other day, I very opportunely saw the kindling of a great fire, by the careless throwing of embers among shavings; but for the accidental discovery, that fire might have swept over the city.  `Well,' says one, `if that is the doctrine, and the Lord is the keeper of the city, how is it that our city is now burned up, scarcely anything left but the smoking ruins of her greatness of yesterday?'  Let us inquire whether there may not be reasons why the Lord should, at certain times, make an exception to this general rule of his preserving <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:providence.  As we are rational and moral agents, he deals with us on moral principles.  Those reasons, therefore, must be sought by an examination of our conduct, as subjects of his moral government.  The Lord has been very kind to us in the past; kind to us individually, and kind to our city collectively.  This you cannot deny.  But how have we requited his kindness?  Just look abroad through the city, as it was yesterday.  See what a wholesale desecration of God's holy day.  As many as seven hundred places of business are open in this city every Sabbath day.  Look at the rum traffic and its deadly effects; think of the fornication and adultery practised in the city; hundreds of men, too, frequenting those haunts of infamy, who have confiding wives and interesting children at home.  Do you imagine that God is an indifferent spectator of these diabolical scenes?  Listen to the horrid oaths which continually ring through our streets.  I said to a swearer this morning: `Be patient, my friend, and don't swear about it.'  `Patience! patience! talk about patience,' said he, `and the city burning up!'  `Well, sir,' said I, `but what good does it do to swear about it?'  `Ah,' said he, `it does to let the gas off.'  Now what kind of gas is that which smokes and bubbles in the hearts of so many thousands of men in this city, the `letting off' of which consists in the foulest blasphemy against God?  It is this awful gas, my friends, which has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:kindled and fed the flames which have consumed the city.  It is the gas of carnal enmity against God, manifesting itself in so many horrid forms in our midst, that `breaks the bands of God asunder, and casts his cords from us.'  And when we break the moral `bands' that bind us to God, we, by the same violence, break the providential `bands' that bind God, in the plenitude of his mercy and providential care, to us.  Let the citizens of San Francisco beware!  God is dealing with them.  This disaster, dreadful as it appears to be, is but a premonition of `judgment to come,' in consequence of their sins.  It is also a disciplinary measure for the correction and improvement of our morals.  Now, if you wish to become loyal subjects of our Divine Sovereign, and rebuild the city on a permanent and safe basis, you must have that dreadful gas removed from your hearts.  The only remedy by which it can be neutralized and extinguished is the blood of the crucified Jesus.  The fire could not be put out last night because of the scarcity of water, and the inefficiency of the means to apply it; but `the fountain opened in the house of David for sin and uncleanness,' is abundant, free, and available.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Its streams the whole creation reach,<LB>So plenteous is the store;<LB>Enough for all, enough for each,<LB>Enough for evermore.'</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>"`The blood of Jesus Christ, his Son, cleanseth us from all sin,' and the Holy Ghost is here to-day to apply it to your hearts.  Will you accept of the remedy?  Will you?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>The application of the discourse and the exhortation that followed were, we believe, attended by the unction of the Holy Spirit.  The occasion throughout was one of great solemnity.  Many hearts throbbed with emotion, and many eyes were filled with weeping.  "Except the Lord" apply the word, they labor in vain that preach it.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>ARRIVAL OF MISSIONARIES.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday, the fifth of November, 1851, I preached at nine o'clock in the morning on the Long Wharf, from the character and conduct of the patriarch Jacob.  At half past ten I preached on Pacific Wharf, from "Jacob wrestling with the angel of the covenant."  While preaching on this occasion, the steamship "California" arrived.  Among her passengers were T. H. Pearne and lady, missionaries, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
109.sgm:<P>That afternoon I preached on the Plaza, from Hosea iv, 2: "By swearing, and lying, and killing, and stealing, and committing adultery, they break out, and blood toucheth blood.  Therefore shall the land mourn, and every one that dwelleth therein shall languish."  I was enabled, through the unction of the Holy Spirit, to deal very plainly with all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:characters implicated by the text.  I learned from Brother Pearne, who was a hearer at our Plaza meeting, that A. Bland, my brother-in-law, a missionary to California, his wife and child, were on the steamship Republic, then due.  I soon afterward heard that the Republic was wrecked on a sunken reef about twenty miles from the "Golden Gate," and that the rush of water through the leak had put out the fires, and that she was in great danger of going down, with a large freight of human beings.  I waited the news of the fate of my friends with no ordinary degree of solicitude.  The steamship California was immediately dispatched for the relief of the wrecked vessel, which, though leaking very badly, was kept up by the pumps and buckets used by the passengers, till she was towed in on Monday afternoon.  The passengers, though frightened and weary, were all safely landed.  How many souls have been wrecked just outside the harbor of eternal blessedness!  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Jesus, lover of my soul,<LB>Let me to thy bosom fly,<LB>While the nearer waters roll,<LB>While the tempest still is high;<LB>Hide me, O my Saviour, hide,<LB>Till the storm of life is past;<LB>Safe into the haven guide,<LB>O receive my soul at last."</HI>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE WHISKY-BARREL PULPIT.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN September, 1851, one Sabbath morning, on Pacific-street Wharf, I asked Captain L. for permission to preach from the deck of his steamer, but he respectfully declined granting the favor, saying, "There are some men at work aboard, and I am afraid it would interrupt them."  I then took a position close by, so that I could give the captain and his men "a portion in due season," and to the crowd as well.  I happened to get for my pulpit on that occasion a barrel of whisky, (I have preached probably a hundred times on the heads of liquor barrels,) which stood on the wharf, and prefaced my discourse by saying, "Gentlemen, I have for my pulpit to-day, as you see, a barrel of whisky.  I presume this is the first time this barrel has ever been appropriated to a useful purpose.  The `critter' contained in it will do me no harm while I keep it under my feet.  And let me say now to you all, to sailors and to landsmen, never let the `critter' get above your feet.  Keep it <HI REND="italics">under your feet</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>At the close of the sermon the congregation gave me a collection of one hundred and twenty dollars toward the erection of our "Bethel."</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE PORK-BARREL PULPIT.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE Sabbath following I occupied as a pulpit, at the same place, a barrel of pork.  I remarked, as I balanced myself on the head of the barrel, "I see my pulpit of last Sabbath, the barrel of whisky, is gone, and I am very much afraid that my timely warning, as is too often the case, was not heeded, and that its contents have ere this gone down the throats of some of our fellow-citizens.  I have in its stead to-day, as you see, a barrel of pork, literally less of the spirit and more of the flesh.  But this is God's house while I here dispense his word, as really as the spot where Jacob slept and dreamed, and saw the ladder that reached up to heaven.  God was in that place, and God is here this morning.  Jacob's God is looking at you now.  O that the Spirit of his grace may this hour subdue your fleshly lusts, while I deliver to you a message from him who sent me."</P>
109.sgm:<P>My text on this occasion was from Proverbs, third chapter, thirteenth and fourteenth verses, "Happy is the man that findeth wisdom, and the man that getteth understanding.  For the merchandise of it is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"This inestimable treasure wisdom, what is it?  `She is a tree of life to them that lay hold upon her,' verse eighteenth.  The very `tree of life,' from which our first parents were driven, and from which they were debarred because of sin, by the `cherubim and a flaming sword which turned every way to keep the way of the tree of life.'  It is the favor of God.  It is reconcilation through the blood of Jesus.  It is experimental religion.  We do not possess this treasure naturally, nor do we acquire it intuitively, nor without <HI REND="italics">earnest</HI>
109.sgm: effort.  Jesus has propitiated the throne of Divine justice, and opened the gateway to the tree of life, and says to a world of outsiders, `Seek to enter in at the strait gate.'  `Strive to enter in at the strait gate; for many, I say unto you, shall seek to enter in, and shall not be able.'  If we would find `wisdom,' we must `seek for her as for hid treasures.'  Many of you are just down from the mines.  You have `made your pile,' and now you are on your way with hearts beating with hopeful emotion, to see the friends you love.  But if you should find a watery grave on your voyage, how you will need religion.  Above all things else, be sure to seek and lay in a good supply of it before you embark.  But we were going to ask you how you got your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:gold.  Did you not have to seek for it, and dig deep and toil hard to get it?  You were impelled, in your diligent search, by desire, and hope, and faith, and determination, and patience.  So must you seek if you would obtain religion.  True, our `works' do not constitute a meritorious ground of our acceptance with God, but an indispensable condition, on which God, for Christ's sake, graciously imparts salvation to our sin-stricken hearts.  The miner says, `Happy is the man that findeth gold, and gets ready to go home to his friends.'  We say, upon the authority of God, `Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,' and gets ready to go to his home in heaven, to meet his friends who have gone before him.  Again, `Happy is the man that getteth,' or, as it reads in the margin, `that draweth out understanding.'  As `wisdom' is the attainment of the best ends, by the use of the best means, so `understanding' is the <HI REND="italics">fruit</HI>
109.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">experience</HI>
109.sgm: of wisdom.  When a soul is `regenerated,' it receives the principle of spiritual life as in natural generation it received the <HI REND="italics">principle</HI>
109.sgm: of <HI REND="italics">natural</HI>
109.sgm: life.  Now the development of this principle of spiritual life in the heart, and its corresponding manifestation in the life, is what is meant by `drawing out understanding.'  `Happy is the man' that retains and develops his religion.  Now some of you, after having made your `pile,' have been decoyed into the gambler's hell, and have, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"The second class embraces those who came to California fully determined to live to God; but they wandered away into the mountains, where they were cut off from all the privileges of the sanctuary, and association with Christians.  There they became feeble, got discouraged, and were finally `entangled and overcome.'  Poor fellows, prisoners of war!  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:Lord have mercy upon them!  Jesus is looking after you, my backslidden brother, as he looked after apostate Peter.  He is very anxious to save you; and he will save you, if you let him.  Will you?  The backsliders of both classes are unhappy: the whole of them.  But, blessed be God, we have the men here in California, who, in opposition to flame, and flood, and death, have `drawn out understanding,' and they are `happy.'  `The merchandise,' or exchange value and circulation of this article, namely, developed religion, `understanding drawn out,' is `better than the merchandise of silver, and the gain thereof than fine gold;' even `fine Yuba gold.'  By the `gain of gold, and the merchandise of silver,' you may make sunshine friends; supply the wants of your mortal bodies, which will be dead and rotten in a few years; gratify your fleshly lusts, which will, when the sources of all gratification are cut off, as they will be when your tabernacle is taken down, like so many vultures, prey upon your deathless spirit forever.  Your money, to be sure, may be applied to useful purposes.  It will buy you a cabin ticket to New-York; but it will not secure you even a <HI REND="italics">steerage</HI>
109.sgm: passage across death's dark flood.  It will give you position among the honorables of the land; but it will not secure you the favor of God and good angels.  It will build a church, if you please; but it will not buy your soul a place in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:heaven.  A man who came to California in 1848, and made a fortune, laid him down, not long since, in Washington-street, in this city, and died.  He had plenty of silver and gold; but, as he informed me, was destitute of religion.  When dying, he said: `It is very hard.  I have just got ready to live; and now I must die.'  What a miserably poor man he was.  An old colored man, from Baltimore City, died recently, in the City Hospital, on Pacific-street, but a few blocks from this spot.  He was a very homely old man, and suffered intensely with the `king's evil,' and I don't know how many other evils, and had not one red cent with which to bless himself; but he had `wisdom,' and was `happy.'  I saw him frequently, and every time he was happy.  A short time before his death I administered to him the sacrament of the Lord's Supper, after which he clapped his bony black hands, and shouted the praise of God.  Said he: `The Lord only knows how I have been pinched with poverty, and what this poor body has suffered; but I am rich.  I have an inheritance in heaven, glory be to God!  I shall soon be released from these sufferings, and go to my home in heaven;' and then the good old `darkey' sang, just as the colored people alone can sing:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`A home in heaven! as the sufferer lies<LB>On his bed of pain, and uplifts his eyes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:To that bright home, what a joy is given,<LB>With the blessed thought of his home in heaven.<LB>"`A home in heaven! when our pleasures fade,<LB>And our wealth and fame in the dust are laid;<LB>And strength decays, and our health is riven,<LB>We are happy still with our home in heaven.<LB>"`A home in heaven! when the faint heart bleeds,<LB>By the Spirit's stroke, for its evil deeds;<LB>O! then, what bliss, in that heart forgiven,<LB>Does the hope inspire of a home in heaven.<LB>"`A home in heaven! when our friends have fled<LB>To the cheerless gloom of the moldering dead;<LB>We wait in hope on the promise given,<LB>We will meet up there in our home in heaven.'</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"I wish you could have seen how his big eyes glistened with rapturous delight, as he thus sung of his `home in heaven.'  Religion gave him a royal heirship in the kingdom of glory.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"The truth of our text he proved in life, confirmed it by his triumphs in death, and is now realizing it in the fruition of a blessed immortality in heaven.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Now, my friends, you see the prize; you have heard the price; if you like the terms, close to-day.  Will you do it?  Will you do it <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
109.sgm:<P>A FRENCH grape dealer, and a Spanish pear and orange seller, had each a movable stand on which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:they exposed their fruits for sale wherever they thought they could get the greatest number of customers.  Seeing me draw together great crowds of men each Sabbath, they thought it would be a fine thing for them to patronize street preaching; and while I was administering to my audience "the bread of life," they would improve the repast by adding a little good fruit.  So one bright Sunday morning in November, 1851, when I went to my appointment on Pacific Wharf, there they were, in front of my "barrel pulpit," the two stands side by side, with their fruit arranged in the most inviting style.  I mounted the "barrel" without appearing to notice them, and sung up a congregation.  While I was singing the first verse of "The Old Family Bible," a man cried out, "Where did you get your Bible?"  Just at that moment I was ready to commence the second verse, and sung to him,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`The Bible, the volume of <HI REND="italics">God's inspiration</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"That's where I got it, sir; by the inspiration of God," and then sung on.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`At morning and evening could yield us delight,<LB>And the prayer of our sire was a sweet invocation,<LB>For mercy by day, and for safety through night.<LB>Our hymns of thanksgiving with harmony swelling,<LB>All warm from the hearts of the family band,<LB>Half raised us from earth to that rapturous dwelling<LB>Described in the Bible that lay on the stand.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:"`The old-fashion'd Bible, the dear, blessed Bible,<LB>The family Bible, which lay on the stand.'</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"Had you been blessed, my friend, with such a sire, and had you been trained in such a family band, you would not ask me where I got the Bible;" and sung on:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Ye scenes of tranquillity, long have we parted,<LB>My hope's almost gone, and my parents no more;<LB>In sorrow and sadness, I live broken-hearted,<LB>And wander unknown on <HI REND="italics">this far-distant shore</HI>
109.sgm:.<LB>Yet how can I doubt a dear Saviour's protection,<LB>Forgetful of gifts from his bountiful hand?<LB>O let me with patience receive his correction,<LB>And think of the Bible that lay on the stand.<LB>"`The old-fashion'd Bible,'" etc.</HI>
109.sgm:<P>The audience now stood in a circle about twenty deep, as close as possible, and the fruit dealers in the center.  I then said, "Grapes, pears, and oranges!  Gentlemen, you must not suppose that I have any interest in this Sunday traffic in calling you together around it.  I hope you will not patronize these Sabbath-breakers.  You are not so grape-hungry but that you can wait till to-morrow, and then during the six days in the week lay in a supply for Sunday.  These fellows have set up here, expecting to make a fine speculation out of my audience this morning; but they will find that they have brought their fruit to the wrong market."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>The fruit dealers by this time would gladly have got out of the range of our artillery, but they were completely environed; and I gave them grapes gratuitously, and pared them down to the smallest point my pity would allow me.  I then preached from Jacob's dying address to his sons, and a blessed season we had.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The poor Spaniard and his French neighbor, like the Shechemites of old, did not understand the refined arts of modern times for making religion subservient to mercenary purposes.  They, however, did not miss it so much as did a grocer I heard of, who, for a long time, paid a high pew-rent in a certain church in this city, and afterward complained, in his simplicity, saying, "Now, for so many months I have paid my pew-rent in that church, and I and my wife always went in just as the congregation turned to face the choir, so that I know they could not help seeing us, and I don't believe that it has benefited my business one cent.  Not one of them comes to buy at my store."</P>
109.sgm:<P>The Lord pity such miserable sinners, who make a "stalking horse" of religion.  The possessor of gains thus acquired, will have more trouble with them than Rachel had with her stolen gods, and in the end share a worse fate than Hamor and Shechem.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>WAYSIDE HEARERS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ONE Sunday morning in October, 1851, I preached to a large audience on "Long Wharf," from the parable of the Sower.  Illustrating how "Satan cometh immediately, and taketh away the word that was sown in their hearts," I said of his Satanic majesty, that "Just at the moment the good seed would take effect, he excites in the heart of the hearer opposing passions, or diverts his attention by presenting to his mind some attractive scheme or train of thought, while he devours the seed; or by sending a wagon-load of calves through the midst of the audience, to the great annoyance of attentive listeners."  (A load of calves for the market at that moment was passing through the crowd.)</P>
109.sgm:<P>The audience so blocked the street sometimes from side to side with a living mass of humanity that it was difficult for a man to get through.  A wagon or dray would therefore be subjected to considerable delay in making a passage through, and I frequently took advantage of the opportunity, and gave them a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>On another occasion a wag, thinking to have a little sport, tried to ride through the crowed on one of the smallest of that small species of animals, the Jack.  His animal refusing to go through, I said, "See there, that animal, like Balaam's of the same kind, has more respect for the worship of God than his master, who only lacks the ears of being the greater ass of the two."</P>
109.sgm:<P>The man, in great confusion, beat his animal out of sight in double quick time.  The reader may wonder how I managed to restore the equilibrium of the audience after such a scene.  I always tried to anticipate that difficulty, and would follow such scenes by the most solemn appeal the subject in hand would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>A MOTHER'S TODDY-LOVING SON.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A MOTHER, to whom God intrusted an infant heir of immortality, a beautiful boy, with instructions to train him for holiness and heaven, dosed her dear little boy with sweetened toddy, and taught him early to be a wine-bibber.  No doubt she feels great solicitude for the welfare of her son since he left for California, and as she has not heard from him for a long time, for he seldom writes, I will give her a word of information concerning him.  He has not been to church in San Francisco, for he was not taught to go to church even at home, and is not likely to form such a habit here.  But he passed by where I was preaching one bright Sunday morning, in the spring of 1852, on Pacific-street.  He listened a while, as most passers-by do, but he had been indulging a little, and was not in a good condition to receive the truth.  After meeting, I saw him before me as I walked down Sansome-street.  He "fetched up" in front of a large liquor-store, where a cask of brandy lay with a little pump in the bung.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>But, mother, you know your son is a smart, inventive youth, as you used often to tell him, when his wits were sharpened by your sweetened toddy.  So he immediately hit on the following happy expedient.  Taking off his hat, he pumped it full of brandy; and as, with joyful steps, he bore away his prize, every now and then he stopped and dipped his red nose into his hat.  When I came "along side," I leaned over to smell the contents of his hat, so as not to be mistaken in my facts, and your generous son said to me: "Come, take a drink, won't you?"  Not fancying the article, nor the vessel containing it, I respectfully declined.  Your dear boy was well provided for that day, and probably got a good night's lodging on a free ticket, in the station-house.  I have not seen the precious youth since, unless, by possibility, he were the same man that I saw soon after in the bay.  He had been "fished up" by some boatman, and was tied by one of his legs to a "pile," to await the arrival of the coroner, whose jury gravely sits on such cases, and at the city's expense, returns a verdict of "accidental drowning."</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE DEATH OF BELSHAZZAR.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday morning, January 4, 1852, I stood on the deck of the steamer Webber, at Long Wharf, and announced as my text: "In that very night was Belshazzar, king of the Chaldeans, slain."  Nearly opposite to where I stood, on the other side of the wharf, lay the steamer Empire, which had been chartered to convey a company of California legislators on that day to Vallejo, the seat of the legislature of this state at that time.  The Empire was steaming up for her Sunday excursion, while I was trying to raise the steam on the Webber against Sunday excursions.  My song drew to the side of our boat a large crowd, while the embarkation of the honorable legislators drew an equally large crowd to their boat, but I had the whole of both parties within the compass of my voice, and I preached to the Empire party more especially.  As I doubted whether many of them ever went to church, I thought it a rare opportunity for giving them a little Gospel truth.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I illustrated, by the life of Belshazzar, that a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:Sabbath-breaking, licentious, carousing, drunken man, was utterly unfit for any official position in the gift of any respectable nation; and to elect men to make our laws, whose brains were addled with brandy, and who showed so little respect for one of the highest laws and most venerable institutions of God, the holy Sabbath, was a wicked absurdity and a burning shame to the American people.  I did not design, by these reflections, to implicate the whole of the Calfornia legislature, for it contained some very good men, but I thought them peculiarly applicable to the party addressed on that occasion.  I illustrated further, the end of such a course of procedure, by the Mene, Tekel, Peres, the numbering, weighing, and dividing of the Chaldean kingdom, and the slaying of her wicked king.  Already we begin to see the handwriting of doom on the wall of our illustrious palace of American liberty.  God has given us a glorious country,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The land of the free and the home of the brave."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>But let the American people beware!  God is the author of all our blessings, and must be honored.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A number of months after this occasion, a stranger called on me, and requested a private interview.  Said he to me: "Do you remember preaching from the deck of a steamboat at Long Wharf, nine months <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"I preach there every Sunday morning.  O yes," I replied, "I do remember it now, by the Sunday excursion which started that morning from the opposite side of the wharf."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"That was the time to which I allude," said he; and then related the following facts concerning himself: "I was up to that morning a confirmed Universalist; and was withal a very wicked sinner.  As I was walking leisurely down the wharf that morning, I heard you singing, and went into the crowd, through curiosity, to hear what was to be said on the occasion.  While you were preaching, a strange fearfulness, which I cannot describe, came over me.  I felt a smothering sensation at my heart, and thought I was dying.  My Universalism all vanished like smoke; and I felt that if I died then, I should certainly go to hell.  For some time I knew not what to do.  I came very near crying out; but something seemed to say to me, `Pray, pray to God, in the name of Jesus Christ, for pardon.'  So I began earnestly to pray.  For three weeks I suffered a constant fearfulness and trembling.  I felt every moment as though some dreadful calamity or judgment was about to befall me.  I was afraid to go to sleep at night, lest I should wake up in hell; and every day there seemed to be literally a heavy mist before my eyes, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>He did not expect soon, if ever, to return to California.  So we closed our interview with a final farewell, and a mutual pledge to each other to live for God, and meet again on the other side of the river.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>A PERSONAL COLLISION ON THE PLAZA.</P>
109.sgm:<P>SUNDAY afternoon, January 18, 1852, I preached on the Plaza, from the judgment recorded on one side of Zechariah's "flying roll:" "And every one that sweareth shall be cut off, as on that side, according to it."  Zechariah v, 3.  Subject of discourse, profane swearing, a dreadful sin, notoriously prevalent in California.  Near my feet sat a stout, muscular man, who, though not drunk exactly, had rum enough in him to make him impudent.  When I read the text, he looked up and said,</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Now go ahead, sir."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I proceeded accordingly; and in a few minutes he said, with an oath,</P>
109.sgm:<P>"You are a fine-looking fellow; I want to have your lithograph taken, sir."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Said I, in an undertone, "My friend, you must be quiet, or you will have to go away."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Who will take me away?" said he boisterously.  "I would like to see the man, or any two men, who could take me away.  Let any man touch me, if he dare."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>Contrary to all precedent in my experience, before or since, no one tried to remove him.  He seemed to have intimidated the people, who, as I afterward learned, were waiting for a policeman for whom they had sent.  I, however, had reached a point in my discourse, where I wanted to illustrate the insinuating progress, and even increasingly degrading effects of the habit of profane swearing, and said: "Here, gentlemen, you see my subject illustrated.  This is a man of fair talents and good education; a man who might be a very useful member of society in California, did he but follow the advice of his pious old mother.  He once had a tender conscience, and a good reputation.  The first oath he ever swore alarmed him, and he promised that he never would swear another; but he came off here to California, and fell into bad company, and now look at him.  Step by step he has gone down the road of degradation, and here he is to-day--the holy Sabbath day--half drunk; and here to disturb, by his foul oaths and curses, a worshiping assembly.  What can be done for such a case?  My text says, `He shall be cut off.'  But it is a dreadful thing to see him sink under the judgment of God, and bring down the gray hairs of his old father in sorrow to the grave.  The Lord have mercy on him."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I had never seen the man before; but learned afterward that I had hit it exactly in every particular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"I want you to get away from here, and let me talk."  In a moment he sprang to his feet, and as I did not give back, there was a collision.  He took hold of my coat collar, and I seized his arm, and gave him such a shaking as muscles, developed at a currier's beam, can give, and passed him to a couple of men, saying, "Here, lead this fellow away.  Don't hurt him, but take him out of sight."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Now," said I to the audience, "while they are disposing of that fellow I'll sing you a song of Zion;" and then I sung two or three verses of <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Forever here my rest shall be,<LB>Close to thy bleeding side;<LB>This all my hope and all my plea,<LB>For me the Saviour died."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>The encounter greatly increased the audience, and I took up the subject where I left off, and proceeded with discourse.  The meeting from that to the close was unusually interesting.  I give a single point as a specimen of the manner in which a crowd of swearers were addressed on the occasion: "But the swearer will say, `I have got so much in the habit of swearing that I cannot quit it.  I have often tried, but it's no use.'  Indeed!  Is that so?  If you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In regard to the spirit in which I encountered my antagonist, I will here insert an extract from my journal, written immediately after the occurrence took place:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"To one who did not see the circumstances, my action in taking hold of the fellow may seem rash.  I have this to say, that it was done in the midst of a sermon, and in almost as short a time as it would take a man to clear his throat.  I think I felt no other spirit than that of preaching my sermon out, in spite of the devil or any of his agents.  In resisting the man I had no feeling of ill-will or design of injury, but simply to effect what I succeeded in doing.  I confess there was nothing premeditated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>A LIVING ILLUSTRATION.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN the spring of 1852, as I was on the Long Wharf one Sunday morning, discoursing to a large audience on the "one thing needful," I proceeded first to show that it was needful to the well-being of the bodies of men.  That religion, as a regulator of the appetites and passions, preserved men from a great variety of excesses which were destructive to health and happiness.  Illustrating this, I said to the crowd: "Go with me, if you please, through the hospitals of our city.  Ask the hundreds of sufferers to whom I will introduce you, the cause of their afflictions; and, while you will see some good men, brought down by unavoidable diseases, you will find that a large majority of those miserable beings have been there imprisoned for the violation of physical laws, from which this needful thing would have saved them."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"That's true, Dr. Taylor; that's true, everry word of it," cried an old man in the audience.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Yes sir," said I, in reply; "you know it by sad experience.  There, friends," I continued, "you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"That old man, lacking this needful thing, indulged his appetite for strong drink, and, as a consequence, I found him two years ago in the hospital.  He lay there for many months, suffering everything, but death.  The physician succeeded at last in doctoring up his old carcass, and if he had given his heart to the Lord, and obtained the healthful, preserving influence of his grace, he might have continued a well man.  But he went out still destitute of the one thing needful, and in a short time he again took the cup of death, for which he had to serve another long term in the hospital.  With naturally a good constitution, if he had been possessed of vital godliness, the probability is, he would not have lost a day from sickness in California.  He is a ship-master, and capable of doing well for himself and his family; and he came here, too, at a time when he had a good opportunity to make a fortune, and but for the want of this one needful thing, he might to-day be reclining on his well-earned California fortune, by his own happy fireside, surrounded by the wife of his youth and the lovely children the Lord has given them.  But look at him.  Here he is, a mere wreck of manly strength, found ering on the lee-shore of the dreadful sea of inebriation; his wife clad in habiliments of mourning, blacker than the widow's weeds, and his beautiful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In the next place I went on to show, by a variety of proofs and illustrations, the value of religion to the soul.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA HUSBANDS MEETING THEIR WIVES.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE darkest chapter in the history of California is that which records the disruption of family ties and connubial relationships, occasioned, primarily, by the rage and rush of thousands of heads of families to her mines of gold.  Many families of children have been thus neglected when they most needed a father's watchful care and counsels.  Many a wife has pined with a broken heart on account of the absence of her husband, and the husband a desolate, isolated wanderer in a strange land.  In very many cases, these husbands are unsuccessful, and often unable even to raise money enough to carry them to their poor, dependent families at home.  Very many of both husbands and wives have died without the longed-for "meeting again."  The mails, surcharged with death shocks, have for years been passing back and forth, from ocean to ocean, and ever and anon, suddenly and unexpectedly as a thunderbolt from a clear sky, the lightning leaps from the train and strikes the widow's heart, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In the midst of all these dangers the meeting of true and faithful husbands and wives, after weary years of separation, is an occasion of thrilling interest, and often furnishes scenes which baffle the painter's skill.  Such scenes occur at our wharves on the arrival of each ocean steamer.  A few incidents characterizing them are contained in the following extract from my journal.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Tuesday, Feb</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"About for thousand persons crowded down Long Wharf to witness her arrival.  Quite a company of anxious wives, who had come to join their husbands, stood on deck, looking out to catch in the distance the joyful recognitions of those they loved.  One simple-hearted, beautiful little woman, getting a glimpse of her husband in the crowd, clapped her hands, and danced for very gladness.  One man rushed on deck, and threw both arms round his wife, as though he would run right away with her, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>On another occcasion a man of my acquaintance, by the name of Brown, who was expecting the arrival of his wife, pressed through the crowd with eager haste to see if she was aboard, and inquired:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Is Mrs. Brown aboard?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Yes," answered one, "She is down in her room."</P>
109.sgm:<P>She, in the meantime, learned that Mr. Brown was coming, and was filled with raptures at the thought.  Mr. Brown found the room, and rushed in to embrace his dear wife, and, to their mutual disappointment, it wasn't either of them.  He was not the man, and she was not the woman.</P>
109.sgm:<P>But a sad case I saw, and it was one of many of the same kind.  A man hasted aboard with joyous heart to meet his wife, and was told that three days <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>When all the ship Zion's company shall have arrived in her destined haven, what joyful meetings we shall see on Canaan's shore.  Shall our friends, who have gone before us, find us aboard, or shall it be told them that at such a time we left the ship and were drowned in perdition?  The Lord bless my readers, and help them to prepare for the happy greeting on the other shore.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>"DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON the fourth of July, 1852, I preached a temperance sermon on the Plaza.  I drew a parallel between the oppressions of our fathers and mothers, under the administration of King George and his train of high officials, and the more dreadful sufferings of tens of thousands of our fellow-citizens, under the despotism of King Alcohol and his long train of officers, thousands of whom are quartered in our midst and pampered at our expense.  I drew a picture of the aggressive marches of the enemy, and the horrible havoc he was making of American flesh and blood, and property, and tenderest ties, and dearest hopes, and asked them what they would do if any foreign potentate or power should invade our territory and commit such outrages with the bayonet.  Shades of Patrick Henry!  Wouldn't Uncle Sam's boys rally and run to the rescue?  "Come forward to-day, like John Hancock and his invincible compatriots, and sign this `Declaration of Independence.'"  About forty persons came forward and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Don't listen to him.  He's an impostor.  He's preaching for money.  He's telling you lies."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Dry up, old woman," replied some of the outsiders; "dry up!  We know what's the matter with you.  Your craft is in danger.  He is taking away your customers.  We know Father Taylor.  He's a good man, and he's telling the truth, and nothing but the truth."  The woman immediately disappeared: Just as I closed my remarks, a man tried to get the attention of the audience, and said: "This man is an impostor, hallooing round here to get people's money."  "Stop, stranger," said one; "what is your business here in the city?"  "Why, sir," replied the fellow, after being closely pressed for an answer, "I am a gambler, and I did a first-rate business, and made money here, till these preachers came to the city.  But this fellow is hallooing at the people here every Sunday, and has broke up my business.  I can't get a decent living."  "Good! good!" said one and another.  "Hearken, friends," said I; "this gambler has paid me a high compliment.  He says I have broken up his business."  "Good! good!" responded the people, the gambler suddenly "vamosed," and I have not laid eyes on him since.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>PROFANE SWEARING.</P>
109.sgm:<P>SUNDAY afternoon, July 27, 1852, I had, on the Plaza, a congregation of about eight hundred.  The subject of discourse was profane swearing.  The application of the sermon ran thus:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Swearer, what do you mean?  Do you thus use the name of God ironically, to express your utmost contempt of the idea of a God?  Then you are an atheist.  What a vast herd of atheists we have in our midst, who dayly feast on the acorns of Divine beneficence, and never acknowledge the oak whence they fell.  Or do you believe that God takes pleasure in unrighteousness, and looks approvingly upon your corruption and wickedness?  Then you are a Mohammedan.  What a host of Mohammedans we have in this Christian country. `No, we are not Mohammedans, nor are we atheists; we believe in a wise, good, and holy God, but we believe he is too good to damn a soul for a few years of sin.'  Then you do not believe the Bible, and you are a set of infidels.  What a crowd of infidels we have in this land of Bibles.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:`No,' says one, `I believe the Bible, I believe in God and in all his attributes, in Jesus Christ and the Holy Spirit, and I believe in future rewards and punishments, in heaven and in hell.'  That, then, swearer, is your faith, is it?  You are a pretty orthodox fellow after all.  But then, with this faith you stand up here, in the light of God's holy day, and with eyes, and face, and voice, and gestures, all indicating the greatest possible earnestness, you, in the presence of witnesses, most solemnly call upon God to `damn your sould to hell.'  How little did the Persian of whom the poet speaks, know of the import of such prayers:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`A Persian, humble servant of the sun,<LB>Who, though devout, of bigotry had none,<LB>Hearing a lawyer, grave in his address,<LB>With adjuration every word impress,<LB>Thought the man a bishop, or, at least,<LB>God's name so oft upon his lips, a priest;<LB>Bow'd at the close, with all his graceful airs,<LB>And ask'd an interest in his frequent prayers.'</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"Had the prayer been explained to the poor Persian, he would have fled from it as from a boa constrictor.  What does such a prayer imply?  There is a man who has a family at home.  He has long been trying to get ready to return to them, and his wife and children are constantly him, `Husband, do come home.'  `Father, we want to see you so badly we can hardly live; when will you come home?'  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>A SABBATH DAY'S WORK.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">November</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"I will here record my thanksgiving to the Lord for the rescue of my little boy, Morgan Stuart, who fell into the bay this morning, where the water was ten feet deep.  O Lord, I thank thee, that when my dear boy was sinking into the deep, thou didst enable me, at a single leap, to seize him and bear him above the surface of the foaming tide, till timely and safely conveyed ashore.  Glory be to my merciful God."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>At a class-meeting held in the Bethel, in November, 1852, a seeker of religion arose and said, "On my passage to California a fellow-passenger died just before we reached Acapulco; and after the captain had given orders to heave him overboard, some one found about his body a paper, certifying that he was an Odd Fellow.  The Odd Fellows aboard at once countermanded the order of the captain, and after proper arrangements, took him ashore and buried him respectably, with the honors of an Odd Fellow.  A passenger said to me, `Now I see the necessity of being an Odd Fellow.'  Said I to him in reply: `Now I see the necessity of being a Christian, and by the grace of God I will seek religion.'  I have been seeking religion ever since, and am determined never to give up the struggle."</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>"SAVE ME FROM MY FRIENDS."</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday afternoon, October 2, 1853, I was preaching on the Plaza to about a thousand hearers from the text, "And he, trembling and astonished, said, Lord, what wilt thou have me to do?"  In the midst of the discourse a drunken fellow began to mutter, and tried to create a disturbance, when another, pretty well intoxicated also, said to me:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Captain, I hope you will not consider it an interruption, and I will beat this contemptible fellow like--.  I won't allow a preacher, a good man like Father Taylor, to be interrupted in the discharge of his duties.  No, that I won't," clinching his fist at the same time, and making a push toward his antagonist.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Stop, my friend," said I.  "I know you are my friend, and that you want to preserve order; but that fellow is pretty badly scared now, and will, I have no doubt, remain perfectly quiet without a whipping.  If he will not, then it will be time enough `to pitch into him.'  Just hold on now, if you please."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"Very well," said he; "I'll do just as you tell me.  If he don't behave, I am on hand to give him the heaviest licking he ever got in all his born days."</P>
109.sgm:<P>My friend, a man I never saw before nor since, had already made a great deal more disturbance than the foe, but quiet was very soon restored, and the preached word was manifestly attended by the Spirit of the Lord.  At the close I sung Bishop Hedding's hymn:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Ye angels who mortals attend,<LB>And minister comfort in woe,<LB>Come listen, ye heavenly friends,<LB>My happier story to know.<LB>I sing of a theme most sublime,<LB>No sorrow my song can control:<LB>I sing of the rapturous time,<LB>When Jesus spoke peace to my soul," etc.</HI>
109.sgm:<P>I took the wounded from the Plaza to the Bethel, and that night we had eleven persons at the altar for prayers, three of whom then, and the rest soon after, professed to experience pardoning grace.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Meeting a young man in the street, he thus addressed me: "How are you, captain?  I know you; I heard you preach on the Plaza.  I encouraged you then; I contributed toward building the Bethel.  I was sober then, and respected God.  Now I am drunk, now I respect the devil."  The devil elicits a great amount of respect by the wholesale and retail rum traffic, in which he is so extensively engaged.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>DEFENSE OF THE SABBATH.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN January, 1853, an article appeared in the "Alta California," a popular dayly of this city, over the signature of "Merchant," against the Sabbath as a day of religious observance.  He attempted to prove, from the Hebrew Bible, that nothing more was contemplated in the institution of the Sabbath than a day of recreation, feasting, and dancing.  He announced that that was the first of a series of articles on the same subject.  The Sabbath following, January 30, I had a large audience on Long Wharf, and took my test from "Merchant's" article in the newspaper, and preached on the origin and design of the Sabbath.  The merchant, unhappily for himself, had chosen Nehemiah as his favorite author, so we sent Nehemiah after him to deal with him, as he did with "the merchants and sellers of all kind of ware" which he expelled from the city of Jerusalem, for doing "as these Long Wharf merchants do here every Sunday."  How successful I was in presenting the truth, and in "showing up" the fallacy of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>EVIL TIDINGS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE following extract from my journal was written, as per date, from the best information I could get from passengers who were witnesses to the scene described, and to newspaper reports:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Friday, April</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"The wreck occurred February 16, on Margarita Island.  After striking a reef, which caused a very bad leak, a sail was drawn over the broken part, and the ship was headed in for the shore, for a convenient place to beach her.  They succeeded, after a run of four miles, in grounding her, but the breakers were very heavy, and the first boat sent ashore with a line, swamped.  The second boat succeeded in carrying a hawser ashore; but by this time the water had so risen in the ship as to stop the lower flues, and throw the fire out of the furnace doors, and in a moment the ship was in flames.  An indescribably horrible scene ensued.  Hundreds jumped overboard, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:and many, on floating spars and other light material, which had been thrown over for the purpose, succeeded in reaching the shore.  A poor sick man asked to be carried to the bulwarks of the vessel; then crawled overboard, and sunk to rise no more.  Rich men offered large sums to be taken ashore, but there was none to help.  Mothers were seen running after their children, and one by one throwing them overboard.  One poor mother chased her last frightened child to the verge of the flames, as it fled from her, and caught it and threw it into the ocean, and then jumped over to sink with her children beneath the dark waters.  A Brother Knox, of precious memory in our church at Sacramento City, there found a watery grave.  A Captain Taylor conceived the idea that he would take his child between his teeth and his wife under his arm, and breast the breakers, and make the shore.  He accordingly lowered his wife by a rope at the stern of the ship, and told her to hold on till he should come with the child; but in the meantime, some one threw the child over, and he lost it.  He then took his wife and swam ashore.  She, however, from the loss of her child, and unavoidable injuries and exposures, took fever, and died just before they reached this port.  She was buried in this city.  The hawser, it is said, was hanging full of persons, who were working their way toward the shore, when one of the officers, fearing it would break <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"In addition to the above sad intelligence, I learned on yesterday that Brother J. Benham, an educated and promising young man from Brooklyn, New York, who was admitted on trial into the California Conference, at its recent session, and sent to Sacramento River Circuit, was drowned a few days since in attempting to ford Catche Creek, when very high.  He was a young man of bright promise, and was, I learn, succeeding on his circuit very well indeed.  How strange that a career so promising should close so early and so suddenly.  How very important that we be always ready."</P>
109.sgm:<P>We are horrified at the details of those dreadful disasters, which by one fell swoop carry, as in a moment, multitudes of our fellows from our midst into eternity.  But we are reminded that the bodies of all our race are under sentence of death; that awful sentence incurred by sin, "Dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou return."  And every thirty years sweeps off a generation, each one suffering as much, in the aggregate, probably, as those who perished in the wreck of the Independence.  When they drop off one by one, but very few, besides the immediate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:friends of the deceased, in any given case, feel the shock.  And even the kindred themselves gradually prepare their minds for the event, so that equal horrors with those of a steamship disaster, are so distributed as to lose, in a great degree, their startling effect.  While no one dies because of a foreordained decree, neither does any one die by chance; nor until, in view of his moral relations to God as a probationer, he is summoned from the stage of life by the Great Supreme.  When a cause for such a summons exists in our moral relations to God, we, having fulfilled the mission of life and ripened for glory, or having filled up the measure of iniquity, and made ourselves "vessels of wrath fitted for destruction," then, any one of the ten thousand occasions of death by which we are surrounded, is sufficient to push us off the stage.  The difference between the different modes of these occasions or secondary causes is very slight.  Now, in the order of Providence, a great many of such persons, and none others, are hurried simultaneously into eternity, for the warning and moral improvement of the living.  "For when thy judgments are in the earth, the inhabitants of the world will learn righteousness."  "But," says one, "if that doctrine be true, why should I be at any trouble to preserve or restore health?  I shall die anyhow when my time comes."  But, sir, the violation of the laws of health, and the neglect of all available <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:restoratives, are sins, which affect those moral relations of which we speak, just as any other sins do, and by your sins you may class yourself with those of whom the Psalmist says, "Bloody and deceitful men shall not live out <HI REND="italics">half their days</HI>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIV.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE REPROBATE SAILOR REDEEMED.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday afternoon, June 26, 1853, I found a man in my Bible-class who seemed to be in distress, and I engaged him in the following conversation.  Said he, in answer to my inquiries:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I was educated in my youth for a Universalist preacher, but I could not believe the doctrine, and instead of preaching I went to sea.  I believe in the doctrine of foreordination and reprobation. I have been in great distress of mind for fourteen years.  My soul is all over diseased.  I have had no peace except what I got by drinking.  I drank rum to relieve my distress.  I have been hoping that God would have pity on me, and bring me in; but I fear he never will do it.  I fear I am a reprobate, and that there is no hope for me."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"But, my brother," replied I, "God has declared, in the most solemn and unequivocal manner, `As I live, saith the Lord God, I have no pleasure in the death of the wicked, but that the wicked turn from his way and live.  Turn ye, turn ye from your evil <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Ah, but we are told," said he, "that though `many are called, but few are chosen.'"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Truly; but does God call the `many,' and proclaim to them the tidings of salvation deceitfully, to mock their fears and aggravate their bondage under chains of inexorable fate?  Surely the righteous God is sincere in his offers of mercy to all sinners.  Christ answers the question, why so `few are chosen' of the `many called.'  `Ye will not come unto me, that ye might have life.'  Now, my brother, God has been very desirous to save you for a long time; but you would not let him.  He has been calling you for fourteen years, and you would not come.  Instead of hearkening to the voice Divine and obeying your Lord, you ran off to a grog shop and got drunk.  Do you ever pray to God for mercy?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"What!" said he; "I pray! I pray!  Why it would be blasphemy for such a wretch as I am to pray.  `The prayers of the wicked are abomination to the Lord.'"</P>
109.sgm:<P>I replied, "Solomon says, `The <HI REND="italics">sacrifice</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>"O, but," said he, "they were not near so bad as I am.  The iniquities of my fathers for four generations seem to be visited upon me."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O, you know," said I, "that the proverb, `The fathers have eaten sour grapes, and the children's teeth are set on edge,' has passed away long ago, so far as answering for the <HI REND="italics">sins</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>So soon as the Sunday school and Bible class closed, he was taken into the shipkeeper's room, where, surrounded by some warm-hearted sailors, he cried to God, in the name of Jesus, and in an hour experienced "redemption through the blood of the Lamb, even the forgiveness of his sins."  That afternoon, after preaching on the Long Wharf, he went round with a bundle of tracts for distribution, and manifested great zeal in trying to persuade his fellowseamen to "ship" for the celestial port.  He soon afterward went to sea.  The Lord keep him steadfast.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXV.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE DRUNKEN SUICIDE'S FUNERAL.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON the twenty-sixth of May, 1853, I attended the funeral of W., of Pennsylvania, who had the previous night committed suicide by the use of laudanum.  He lay in a small, filthy shanty, attended by ten of his bar-room companions.  The undertaker had not arrived when I entered the shanty, but the friends, in their generous haste, proceeded at once to put down the lid of the coffin.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Good-by, Bill," said one, as he fitted the coffin-lid, and then they went to work to set the screws.  One used an old razor; another an old knife; two others employed themselves in pressing in the coffin and fitting the screws; a fifth went off in haste to borrow a screw-driver, that the work, as he said, "might be finished up decently."</P>
109.sgm:<P>In the meantime I proposed to them the following question: "How did this man come to his death?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Hard drink," said one.  "I've known him here for three years.  Hard drink was the thing, sir."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"It was a sore face," said a third, "which pained him so that he got disheartened and took laudanum."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"No," said the fourth, "it was a punishment.  He could not help it."  (He meant it was so decreed.)</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Well," said yet another, "I think it was his misfortune.  He was driving a dray in the city, and had bad luck, and got discouraged, and put an end to himself."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I then arose and sung:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"That awful day will surely come,<LB>The appointed hour makes haste,<LB>When I must stand before my Judge,<LB>And pass the solemn test," etc.</HI>
109.sgm:<P>I then said: "It is a solemn thing to die.  To die in our sins is dreadful; but for a man to rush, by the violence of his own hands, unbidden, into the presence of a sin-avenging God, is too horrible to be described.  What could lead this man to such a dreadful end?"  I then quoted their testimony on the subject, and continued, "If this man had been a praying, sober man, would he have had that `sore face?'  If he had `been diligent in business, fervent in spirit, serving the Lord,' would he probably have had such `hard luck?' and, if so, would these two evils combined have led him to destroy himself?  Now the facts in the case are these: The `sore face,' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Why do you drink?  Because it gratifies your vitiated appetite.  Every repetition, as you imagine, increases the gratification.  The absence of this gratification creates, as a man said to me one day after preaching on the Long Wharf, `a terrible pain down in here,' which must be relieved.  And thus, by the combined forces of the pleasure and the pain occasioned by the absence of it, your desire for the deadly cup becomes more and more imperative.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"This is the philosophy of this ruinous habit.  `A failing.'  Ah! it is a fatal `failing!'  You cannot imagine where it will lead you.  Your only hope of a better end than the case of this poor man, is to `taste not, touch not, handle not the unclean thing.'  Begin now to pray, and cry to God in the name of Jesus for mercy, to forgive the past, and for grace to cure this ruinous habit, and to preserve you in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>The fellows gave most serious attention, and really seemed to feel the force of truth, and a "desire to flee the wrath to come."</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVI.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>A PEEP INTO A CALIFORNIA LOVE-FEAST.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE following is a description of a love-feast, held in the Seamen's Bethel, San Francisco, May, 1853: After a hearty, united song of praise to God, and prayer by the Rev. I. Owen, presiding elder, and the tokens of mutual Christian affection, between thirty and forty witnesses of Jesus testified to his saving love.  Brother R. said: "At Buenos Ayres, in South American, God found me a poor sinner.  I was, as too many seamen are, a most profane swearer.  The Spirit of God mightily convinced me of sin.  I thought of my mother's prayers and tears, and how I had lived.  I wept and cried to God for mercy; and there he spoke peace to my soul.  Thank God for a praying mother.  When I returned to the State of Maine, to tell my friends what God had done for me, I learned that on the very night God converted my soul at Buenos Ayres, my mother and other Christian friends were at a prayer-meeting, and prayed specially for me.  Glory be to God, the prayers of the righteous avail much!  I enjoyed the life and power of religion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Then all sung:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Never more will I stray,<LB>From my Saviour away,<LB>But will follow my Lord till I die.<LB>I will take up my cross,<LB>And count all things but dross,<LB>Till I meet my Redeemer on high."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Brother B--t said: "I love the Lord Jesus Christ, for he sought me at a camp-meeting away up in Iowa, and spoke peace to my soul.  In the midst of great trials, and much unfaithfulness on my part, he has led me along for ten years.  I feel his love burning in my heart to-day.  Glory be to his holy name!"</P>
109.sgm:<P>The following song seemed to speak in melodious strains the feelings of every heart:</P>
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109.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O, Jesus, my Saviour, in thee I am blest!<LB>My life and my treasure, my joy and my rest!<LB>Thy grace be my theme, and thy name be my song,<LB>Thy love doth inspire my heart and my tongue.<LB>"O, who is like Jesus! he's Salem's bright King;<LB>He smiles and he loves me, he taught me to sing:<LB>I'll praise him, I'll praise him, and bow to his will,<LB>While rivers of pleasure my spirit do fill!"</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Brother L--g said: "I left Germany when a poy, and came to New-York.  I heard Brother Lyon preach in New-York, from de text, `Ye must pe porn again.'  He came strange to me.  I tid not know vot to do.  I vent again, and kept going, till one Sunday morning the Lord converted my soul.  I am still on my vay to Canaan's happy shore."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Then the song was sung:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O, Canaan, bright Canaan! I'm bound for the land of Canaan," etc.</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Brother L--d arose, exclaiming: "Canaan is just where I want to go.  At the corner of Pacific and Battery streets, in this city, God converted my soul.  I came to California a very wicked sinner; but the first Sunday after I landed I heard Brother Taylor preach on the wharf and on the Plaza,  I was struck under deep conviction; and for three weeks afterward a more miserable man than I was never walked these streets.  I have heard a great deal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>As he sat down, the audience sung:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"There is a land of pure delight,<LB>Where saints immortal reign;<LB>Infinite day excludes the night,<LB>And pleasures banish pain."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Brother S--r said: "I feel that I am indeed in a love-feast.  Here we are from almost every part of the world.  We have taken a little bread and water as tokens of our mutual love; and we feel the love of Christ flowing into our hearts, uniting us all in one bundle of love.  Brethren, my soul is happy."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Brother C--r said: "At our last quarterly meeting I determined to live nearer to God.  I feel that I have been better.  I have many precious seasons all alone with Jesus, aboard my vessel.  Four years ago, in old Massachusetts, on the eleventh day of March, God spoke peace to my soul.  I went to church one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>These words then swelled in melodious strains from many a joyous heart:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"By faith I view my Saviour dying,<LB>On the tree! on the tree!<LB>To every nation he is crying,<LB>Look to me! look to me!<LB>He bids the guilty now draw near,<LB>Repent, believe, dismiss their fear--<LB>Hark! hark! what precious words I hear,<LB>Mercy's free! mercy's free!<LB>"Did Christ, when I was sin pursuing,<LB>Pity me, pity me?<LB>And did he snatch my soul from ruin?<LB>Can it be, can it be?<LB>O, yes! he did salvation bring;<LB>He is my prophet, priest, and king;<LB>And now my happy soul can sing,<LB>Mercy's free! mercy's free!"</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Brother B--n said, "I embraced religion in Baltimore City, and the time which has since elapsed is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:the happiest period of my life.  The grace of God has been sufficient for me in California.  When I came to California, I knew but little about the doctrine of holiness, but I have here learned much, and have proved the virtue of Christ's blood in a <HI REND="italics">full</HI>
109.sgm: salvation from <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
109.sgm:<P>We then sung:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Refining fire, go through my heart;<LB>Illuminate my soul;<LB>Scatter thy life through every part,<LB>And sanctify the whole.<LB>"O, that it now from heaven might fall,<LB>And all my sins consume;<LB>Come, Holy Ghost, for thee I call;<LB>Spirit of burning, come."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Then Brother H--t arose and said: "I am not ashamed of the Gospel of Christ, for I have proved it to be the power of God unto the salvation of my soul.  I embraced religion eighteen years ago in the City of Philadelphia.  But for religion, I believe I would now be in hell.  God has been good to me.  Religion is love."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Then the song:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Religion is a glorious treasure,<LB>Diffusion of the Saviour's love;<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:The Spirit's comfort without measure;<LB>It joins our souls to those above:<LB>It calms our fears, it soothes our sorrows,<LB>It smooths our way o'er life's rough sea:<LB>While endless ages are onward rolling,<LB>This heavenly portion ours shall be."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Next arose Brother W--r, and said: "I have enjoyed religion for ten years.  I have been a very unprofitable servant, but I am happy in God to-day.  I have children in heaven; I expect to meet them there."</P>
109.sgm:<P>And then we sung of that happy home:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A home in heaven, when our friends have fled,<LB>To the cheerless gloom of the moldering dead:<LB>We wait in hope on the promise given;<LB>We will meet up there in our home in heaven."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Brother E--s next arose and said: "I was left a little orphan boy in Sweden.  I soon after went to sea, and was discharged from the ship at a Swedish port, far from home.  I was without friends, and without money, but I remembered that my mother used to tell me, that if ever I got into any trouble, to pray to God, and he would direct me.  So I thought this is a time of trouble, and I went down to the sea-shore and prayed.  I felt as though God heard my prayer.  I rose from my knees, and walked along, cold and hungry, not knowing whither I went.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>And then our souls found utterance in Newton's good old hymn:</P>
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109.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Though troubles assail, and dangers affright,<LB>Though friends should all fail, and foes all unite,<LB>Yet one thing secures us, whatever betide,<LB>The promise assures us, The Lord will provide."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Next Brother H--n said: "I obtained religion in Prince Edward's Island.  Religion in California has been my polar star.  I do feel that I have an interest in Christ's atoning blood.  I thank God that on my first Sabbath in California I went to Church.  That was a turning point with me."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Brother W--w said: "I have buried seven children in their infancy.  They are all safe in heaven, where I expect to meet them.  I have but one child living, and he gives me more care than the loss of all the rest.  O pray that he may be converted."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Brother S--r, from New-Jersey, said: "I have proved the blessedness of religion by an experience of twenty-two years.  I was converted in a love-feast, and I never attended one since without getting my soul blessed."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Brother O. said he had enjoyed religion for twenty-six years, and intended to travel "all the length of the celestial road."</P>
109.sgm:<P>We then sung:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Even down to old age all my people shall prove<LB>My sov'reign, eternal, unchangeable love;<LB>And when hoary hairs shall their temples adorn,<LB>Like lambs they shall still in my bosom be borne."</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>Brother H. B., from Baltimore City, said: "I was brought up without any religious instruction.  I knew nothing about religion, had never even heard a prayer in the family till I was twenty-eight years old.  I. D., my partner, was a Methodist class-leader, though I did not know it, for I knew nothing about the Methodists.  One Saturday evening my partner said to me: `Henry, if you go on in this way you will be lost.  You ought to pray, and go to church, and seek religion.'  Said I to him, `What church do you go to, sir?'  `To Caroline street Church.'  `Well, sir, I'll go to-morrow,' said I.  I went, and heard Thomas Seargent preach.  The truth made a wonderful impression on my mind.  I went the next day and bought a Bible and Jay's Prayers, and commenced reading and trying to reform; but I was completely miserable.  For three days and nights I could not rest nor eat.  I then went to a camp-meeting, the first I ever attended.  This was the sixth day of August, 1833.  That night Samuel Kepler preached, and invited all persons who wanted to seek religion to come into the altar.  I immediately arose in the congregation and started in haste to the altar.  When I got to the gate the gate-keeper said to me, `We don't want any in here but mourners.' `I don't know what you mean by mourners,' said I; `but I want to seek salvation.'  `Come in, come in,' said he; `you are the very man we want to see.'  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:kneeled down and cried mightily to God for mercy.  A man said to me, `Believe in the Lord Jesus Christ, and thou shalt be saved.'  `What did you say, sir?' said I.  `Believe in the Lord Jesus Christ, and thou shalt be saved.'  `I do believe in the Lord Jesus Christ,' said I; and at that very moment I did believe and experienced the salvation of my soul.  Glory be to God.  For many years I have enjoyed <HI REND="italics">full</HI>
109.sgm: salvation through the blood of Jesus." <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Praise God, from whom all blessings flow,<LB>Praise him, all creatures here below,<LB>Praise him above, ye heavenly host,<LB>Praise Father, Son, and Holy Ghost."</HI>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>"YOU'VE KNOCKED ME ALL INTO A KINK."</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday, January 10, 1854, after preaching on the Plaza from the text, "If our heart condemn us, God is greater than our hearts, for he knoweth all things," a stranger spoke to me, saying:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"There is a man by the name of S., from B., lying at the point of death in that house, the third door from here," (pointing to the door.)  He also intimated to me something of S.'s notorious character as a wicked man, and said he: "S. did not send for you; but his parents were religious, and perhaps you may do him some good."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I went in, and found him attended by four or five men, who appeared to receive me very kindly.  He lay, pale and ghastly, evidently very near the grave.  I said to him: "Friend S., do you suffer much pain?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"No," replied he, very abruptly.  I then turned away and exchanged a little conversation with his companions, and, in about five minutes, I approached him again, and, in the mildest and most hopeful manner I could, said:</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"Friend S., do you not feel as though you might rally and recover?" hoping to gain access to his heart.  He replied:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"When I want anybody to talk to me, I'll send for him."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I have called in," said I, "as a friend, feeling the greatest sympathy for you, and am ready to do anything for your comfort in my power."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I'd thank Mr. H.," said he, upbraiding the man whom he suspected of asking me in, "to attend to his own business."  And then addressing me, he continued: "Before you came in here I had some peace, but you have knocked me all into a kink, and if you will just go away, I think I can die in peace."</P>
109.sgm:<P>He lived close to where I preached on the Plaza, and he had probably heard me preach a hundred times, and thus my presence, without the utterance of a word in regard to the condition of his soul, brought to his mind, doubtless, a thousand Gospel associations which seemed to throw him into unutterable tortures.  His only peace depended on his banishing from his mind all thoughts of the past and future.  Poor fellow! how sorry I felt for him.  If the presence of a poor street preacher, clogged with mortality, "knocked him all into a kink," to use his own language, how could he bear the presence of holy angels, and of the great multitude of the redeemed in glory, were he admitted to heaven?  How <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:could he bear the presence of the awful God, whom he had insulted and defied all his life?  How preposterous the idea of any man's being received into the kingdom of glory, without an education adapting him to heavenly enjoyments; a moral fitness for such a place.  Heaven would be the most unbearable of all hells to such a man as poor S.  He left the world "all in a kink," a few hours after I saw him, and eternal ages will not suffice to straighten him out.  We have got to untangle all our kinks on this side of the river, or remain "all in a kink" forever.  Let every man lay this to heart, "For there is no work, nor device, nor knowledge, nor wisdom, in the grave, whither thou goest."  When we stand before the judgment-seat of Christ, it will be to answer "for the deeds done <HI REND="italics">in the body</HI>
109.sgm:."  No record there of anything done by us <HI REND="italics">out of</HI>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVIII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>HONORARY CHURCH MEMBERS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>AT the close of a camp-meeting, held in Alameda, in May, 1854, twelve miles from this city, across the bay, at which fifteen persons professed justifying grace and united with the Church, I commenced a protracted meeting in the Bethel, which was continued a month.  During the Bethel meeting upward of thirty professed to experience religion, and united with the Methodist Episcopal Church.  When J. B. B., one of our young converts, gave his name as a candidate for Church membership, he said:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Brethren, in almost all societies there are active and honorary members.  It is never expected that honorary members should do anything in the Society.  Now I have not come into the Church as an honorary member.  I want you to put me down for an active member, for I want to do all I can in the cause of God.  I have a burning love for souls, and I mean to do all in my power to bring them to Jesus.',</P>
109.sgm:<P>He was very active as a young Christian in the Bethel.  He is now a member in Powell-street.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"O, I'M SO 'SHAMED!"</P>
109.sgm:<P>DURING the progress of a protracted meeting in the Bethel, in July, 1854, I said to a sailor who seemed to be concerned, as I thought, about his soul, "Come, sir, come along, and kneel down at the altar."  He, thinking that I was captain of the ship, and that my orders were not to be questioned, got right up and promptly obeyed the order.</P>
109.sgm:<P>After a while I went to him to give him a little instruction in regard to the work before him, when he said: "O captain, do let me get up, I feel so ' <HI REND="italics">shamed</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>"Why, my dear sir," I replied, "if you get up and go out now, before all this congregation, they will look at you, and will think you are `backing down' from what you have undertaken.  You had better remain where you are till the meeting is out."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O, I am so 'shamed," he responded.</P>
109.sgm:<P>He remained on his knees till the congregation was dismissed, but I could not get him to pray much.  He left, and I saw him no more.  Poor fellow, he would have a hard time of it if admitted into heaven in his sins and shame.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIX.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE SAILOR'S VISION ON LONG WHARF.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Two English seamen heard a sermon on Long Wharf, in the autumn of 1853, on the healing of the woman who had been sick twelve years, and "had suffered many things of many physicians, and had spent all that she had, and was nothing better, but rather grew worse," until she found Jesus, and touched the hem of his garment.</P>
109.sgm:<P>They became so distressed on account of their own wretched condition as sinners, that they went to the Bethel that night, and presented themselves as seekers of religion.  Soon afterward, they experienced the healing virtue of the blood of Jesus in their own hearts, and became consistent, happy Christians.</P>
109.sgm:<P>One of them afterward, in relating his experience, said: "When I saw that poor old woman, on Long Wharf, press through the crowd, and touch the hem of the Saviour's garment, I couldn't help but cry, and I thought, O I wish I could go to him and touch his garment too, and be healed with the poor woman."</P>
109.sgm:<P>William B., a zealous young Christian in our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"I shipped in the brig C. F., Captain P., from Baltimore.  After we got out to sea, the captain flogged me regularly three times a day, all the way out, and called me by no other name than `Son of a b--.'  On one occasion he said to me, `B., I believe whipping don't hurt you much, and now I am going to punish you.'  He took me and tied me over the hawser-pipe, at the bows, where I was drenched with sea-water at every dip of the brig.  I remained there in soak, without a bite to eat, for three days and nights.  The captain also beat the cook till he jumped overboard, and then lowered a boat and beat him in the water, and took him up just in time to save his life.  I was then a wild, drinking boy, nineteen years of age."</P>
109.sgm:<P>A sailor's life is a hard one at best, but poor B. seemed to have fared worse than usually falls to the lot of his kind.  Flogging has been abolished in our navy, and is but seldom resorted to in our merchant ships at the present day.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XL.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>"A SABBATH-DAY'S JOURNEY" IN SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I WILL take my reader back to Sunday, the twenty-seventh day of August, 1854.  Not because of the peculiarities of that day particularly, for there were many of the same sort, but because I happen to find in my journal copious notes of that day, which bring all its scenes fresh to my memory.  I will ask the reader's pardon before I start, for the apparent egotism of requesting his company through a whole Sabbath, to hear me sing, and preach, and walk, and talk; but then you must know that I only claim to be a poor sinner, saved by the great mercy of God, in Christ, taken up from the humble walks of life, and can never forget "the rock whence I was hewn, and the hole of the pit whence I was digged."  Whatever good is wrought through me, the Lord doeth it.  To him be all the glory.  I commence my journey at half past eight in the morning in the U. S. Marine Hospital, and go through all the wards, and distribute tracts to one hundred and fifty patients.  See how glad they are to get the tracts.  There is a poor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:fellow almost gone.  Tracts are of no avail to him now.  He has doubtless stood many a gale, but, poor man, he is "stranding" at last.  I will speak to him of Jesus, and have a word of prayer by his side.  There's a man who has been confined two years by an abscess in his side.  And there's a poor fellow who has been still longer confined by paralysis.  He is unable to talk, but he can hear, and understand, and can read.  I will tell him of the great Physician, who is famous for curing the "palsy," and give him a good tract.  And now, at nine o'clock, the bell rings for preaching in the dining-room.  I will sing while they are coming in.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"By faith I view my Saviour dying,<LB>On the tree! on the tree!<LB>To every nation he is crying,<LB>Look to me! look to me!<LB>He bids the guilty now draw near,<LB>Repent, believe, dismiss their fear;<LB>Hark! hark! what precious words I hear,<LB>Mercy's free! mercy's free!<LB>"Did Christ, when I was sin pursuing,<LB>Pity me, pity me?<LB>And did he snatch my soul from ruin?<LB>Can it be, can it be?<LB>O yes, he did salvation bring;<LB>He is my prophet, priest, and king;<LB>And now my happy soul can sing,<LB>Mercy's free! mercy's free!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:"This precious truth, ye <HI REND="italics">sailors</HI>
109.sgm:, hear it,<LB>Mercy's free! mercy's free!<LB>Ye ministers of God, declare it,<LB>Mercy's free! mercy's free!<LB>Visit the <HI REND="italics">sailor's</HI>
109.sgm: dark abode,<LB>Proclaim to all the love of God,<LB>And spread the glorious news abroad,<LB>Mercy's free! mercy's free!<LB>"Long as I live, I'll still be crying,<LB>Mercy's free! mercy's free!<LB>And this shall be my theme when dying,<LB>Mercy's free! mercy's free!<LB>And when the vale of death I've pass'd,<LB>When lodged above the <HI REND="italics">stormy blast</HI>
109.sgm:,<LB>I'll sing while endless ages last,<LB>Mercy's free! mercy's free!"</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"The lesson for the occasion may be found in the third chapter of the Gospel of St. John, from the first to the seventeenth verse.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"We will now sing that good Church hymn, commencing:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Of him who did salvation bring,' etc.</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"Your mothers taught many of you to sing when you were little boys.  Now, can you not all unite with me in singing the praise of God?  Sing out just as you do sometimes when `hauling ship into port.'  Now, let us all kneel down and pray.  Jesus is here this morning; he's looking at you now, `and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"I.  The scene in the wilderness.  The camp of Israel, containing nearly two millions of souls, more than six times exceeding in number the entire population of this state.  The Arabian desert, as far almost as the eye can penetrate the distance, is covered with the tents of Jacob.  What a vast `camp-meeting' that was, and the presence of God was manifested there.  But `the people spake against Moses, and against God, Wherefore have you brought us up out of Egypt to die in the wilderness?  For there is no bread, neither is there any water,' (that was a lie, upon their own admission,) `and our souls loatheth this light bread.'  `And the Lord sent fiery serpents among the people, and they bit the people, and much people died.'  You have been in large cities where the ravages of cholera threw the whole population into a panic, but throughout this vast encampment there was one universal wail of distress.  The human family has an awful dread of snakes, especially when they crawl into our tents at night.  But here a swarm of the most dreadful serpents we ever heard of, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"II.  What is the remedy?  Moses, by the command of God, made a serpent of brass and put it on a pole.  And as Moses lifted up the serpent in the wilderness, even so has the Son of man been lifted up, etc.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"III.  What is the condition by which the healing virtue of the remedy may be applied to the subject?  A proclamation was sounded throughout the camp of Israel, `Look at the brazen serpent and live.'  And from all the tents you see them coming forth, some walking, some crawling, some carried by their friends; and looking, they lived.  So soon as a sufferer fixed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:his languid eye on the brazen serpent, his eye brightened, the poison in his veins was neutralized, and he sprang up in vigorous health.  Some almost dead, their eyes already set in their sockets, yet when raised up by a friend, and their dim eyes fixed on the object, they immediately sprang into life.  But there's and old skeptical, stubborn Jew, who is badly bitten, who says, `What good will it do me to look at a piece of brass?  Who ever heard of a piece of brass curing a snake-bite?'  It is the power of God that is to cure you, my friend; but he requires you to <HI REND="italics">look</HI>
109.sgm:<P>The poor, sick sailors listened with great attention.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I must now hasten to my appointment, at ten o'clock, on Davis-street Wharf.  I will not trouble you to keep up with me.  I'll run on, and sing up a crowd, and you can come along at your leisure.  The chariot and the royal proclamation sung, see what a multitude of hungry souls, of almost every nation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Our text reads as follows: "Daughter, be of good comfort: thy faith hath made thee whole; go in peace."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"The dreadful condition of this poor woman: sick for so many years: spent everything she had for medicine and doctors' bills: suffered many things by their experiments: got worse and worse.  Such is your <HI REND="italics">moral</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"What was the poor woman to do?  She had heard of Jesus.  She saw from her window a crowd in the street, and inquired, `What is that? what is that?'  `Jesus has come to town,' said one.  `Yes, that's the great Prophet of Nazareth passing along the street now.'  `O! if I could only get to him,' thought the sick woman, `he would cure me of this dreadful plague, and would not charge me a penny.'  But, poor creature, how could she?  `And yet,' thought she, `this is probably my last chance.  I may never see him again.  I had as well die in the street, and be trodden down by the multitude, as to die in this miserable place.  I'll go to Jesus.  <HI REND="italics">I'll go</HI>
109.sgm:, or <HI REND="italics">perish</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"Give back, gentlemen, and let this poor woman pass.  Struggling under untold miseries of body and of heart, overcoming one difficulty after another, see her approaching the Saviour.  O! if she can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Can she ever forget that day?  Can I ever forget the day when Jesus spoke peace to my soul?  Glory be to God!  Jesus is here to-day.  He is passing along the street now.  Ye weary, heavy-laden sinners, he is speaking to you.  Hark! he says, `Come unto me, and I will give you rest.'  Will you go to him?  Will you press your way in spite of all opposition?  Will you go now?  Sing the Doxology.  Preaching at the Bethel at eleven o'clock.  <HI REND="italics">Now</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Text in the Bethel at eleven o'clock: "If any man will do his will, he shall know of the doctrine."  Had a very gracious season.  But if the reader will have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>At half past two o'clock in the afternoon I preached, in the hall of the Sons of Temperance, the funeral sermon of Robert Anderson, late of Mobile, Alabama.  Text: "O death! where is thy sting?  O grave! where is thy victory?"  Mr. Anderson's family, consisting of his wife and three or four children, was present.  His wife and daughter are Methodists.  The old gentleman was nominally a Presbyterian.  He, it is said, had been very wealthy, but had become by some reverses very poor.  He informed me that for thirty years he had been a praying man, and had kept up prayers regularly in his family; "and yet," said he, "I never had religion.  I believe I have been a sincere seeker of religion, but never knew anything of it but its forms."  I spent hours with him at different times, before I could get him to look to <HI REND="italics">Christ alone</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"My text on this occasion may be found recorded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:in the Book of Chronicles of the `Common Council' of this city.  It is embodied in an ordinance passed by that honorable body last Monday night, the twenty-first instant, under the effect of a judgment rendered by one of our courts against the city, in favor of Mrs. Rosa Greenough, for ten thousand dollars.  The said ordinance orders the payment of the said ten thousand dollars to the said Mrs. Greenough `What was the ground of her claim against the city fathers?'  She sued them for an indemnity for the loss of her husband, Robert Greenough, who fell through a hole in Bush-street, which caused his death.  `How did this hole happen to be in the street?'  By the neglect of the city authorities to keep the street in order.  `What were the man's eyes for but to look out for holes in the street?'  We have darkness as well as light, and when men <HI REND="italics">walk in darkness</HI>
109.sgm: they cannot see their danger.  `Why should the man be out in the dark?'  That question is not relevant to the point.  He <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
109.sgm: out in the dark, and returned to his waiting wife no more.  He fell through the hole and perished.  Had the city fathers done their duty, the hole had not been there, and Robert had not died at their expense.  They confessed judgment, and paid the ten thousand dollars damages.  Very good.  If the man was worth that amount, and that is a very low price for a good husband, (though we can supply good ones here in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Well, on the very night this appropriation was made, a man by the name of Mahan got drunk and fell off Meigs's Wharf into the bay, and was drowned.  `How did Mr. Mahan come to his death?'  He fell into a rum `hole,' and perished in consequence of his fall.  `How came the "hole" there?'  Through somebody's neglect?  No; it was opened on purpose to catch men.  `Ah! do we have such holes in our streets?'  Yea, verily.  Not in Bush-street alone, but in every street in the city, and on almost every corner of every street.  Are not these holes much more dangerous to life and limb than such holes as caused the death of poor Greenough?  I believe Robert Greenough is the first man I remember to have heard of who lost his life in that way in this city.  Who can tell how many hundreds of men, strong men, fathers of dependent families at home, and sons of affectionate mothers far away, have fallen into these rum holes and perished without hope?  `Their name is legion.'  You have all seen the enormity of this evil in our midst.  Does not a tremendous responsibility attach somewhere?  Are not heavy damages due from some source?  What is to pay?  Ask the wife of H. S., whose husband was picked up in one of these `holes' one dreadful stormy night, and was put by a policeman into a bunk in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Ask the mother of Judge B., one of the brightest stars of the legal profession in this city.  Many of you have hung with delight on the eloquence of his lips.  But he walked in darkness, fell into these holes, and perished.  He is gone forever.  Who is to pay for all this?  Do the city authorities, whose business it is to remove nuisances, stop dangerous holes in the streets, and protect the lives and property of their people, know that there are such dangerous holes in the city?  Know it?  How can they help but know it?  Every five year old child in the city knows it.  `How is it that the city fathers seem to be ignorant of these things?  Would it not be well to stir up their pure minds by way of remembrance?'  Why, my dear sirs, what are you talking about?  These holes are opened, and kept open, by their permission and authority.  Their children are falling through these trap-doors of hell, into the burning pool, every day, and yet the fathers keep them open every day and Sunday, from the first day of January to the last day of December.  O shocking!  O consistency, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:thou art a jewel not to be found in the administration of civil government.  Now, then, are not the city authorities in justice and equity responsible?  If Mrs. Greenough could make them pay her ten thousand dollars for the loss of her husband, because of their neglect to stop a certain hole in Bush-street, has not Mrs. Mahan as good a right in equity to the same amount for the loss of her husband, because of the ` <HI REND="italics">holes</HI>
109.sgm: ' they <HI REND="italics">opened</HI>
109.sgm: in the streets?  Why a man made them pay him eight hundred dollars for the loss of his horse, that fell through a hole in Pacific street.  `Is not a man much better' than a horse?  Here is Judge Shattuck, whom you all know, judge of the Superior Court in this city; I will submit the question to him without further argument, on the grounds of justice, equity, and consistency.  Mrs. Mahan <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>At half past seven P.M., I am again in the Bethel.  Good congregation.  Text: "Friend, how camest thou in hither, not having the wedding garment?"  The occasion was one of great interest.  Prayer-meeting after sermon.  Singing lively and prayers fervent.  I close my journey for the day in the "guest chamber" of a bridegroom and his blooming bride, whom I united in the bonds of holy matrimony.  Wishing our reader companion pleasant dreams and refreshing sleep after a Sabbath-day's journey in San Francisco, I bid him good night.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLI.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE FARE HAS RISEN.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday, September 10, 1854, I preached at the corner of Davis and Jackson streets, to a large crowd, many of whom were miners, who had been disappointed in a passage home.  The fare had been very high for many months, from $140 to $250 per passenger to New-York.  But three steamers had advertised to leave on Friday, the 8th instant, and competition ran so high, that the fare was reduced to a very low figure.  This caused a "rush from the mountains."  Applications for passage were so numerous, and many were so desirous to get the fare reduced still lower, that the companies, the day before the sailing of the steamers, raised the fare to the former high rate.  My text on this occasion was: "And the Lord shut him in."  Noah and his family had wisely improved their opportunity, and secured their passage in the ark; but now the office was closed, no more passengers received, and the door was shut.</P>
109.sgm:<P>One of my illustrations ran thus: "Many of you wanted to go home.  The fare to New-York was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"The time has been, my friends, when you might very easily have secured a passage to heaven in the ark of salvation.  You remember the many gracious opportunities you have had; but `the fare has gone up.'  It has risen in proportion to the multitude and magnitude of your sins.  O how rapidly it has gone up since you came to California.  You need never again talk of a convenient season to come.  Your convenient season has passed long ago, never to return.  The fare will never be any lower than it is today.  But the office is open now, and your tickets are ready for you.  We demand a renunciation of all your sins, and a consecration of your hearts and lives to God, and your belief in the Lord Jesus Christ.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>A DUELIST'S FUNERAL.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I SUBMIT the following letter, as an introduction to my subject:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Rev. MR. TAYLOR,--</P>
109.sgm:<P>"DEAR SIR,--Colonel Woodlief, a gentleman from Texas, with whom you probably had some acquaintance, was killed yesterday in a duel with Mr. Kewen.  Previous to the duel in the morning he expressed a desire that, in case of his death, you should be requested to perform the appropriate ceremonies over his body.  If you will be kind enough to do so, sir, you will confer a favor upon the many friends of Colonel Woodlief, and particularly upon his lady.  The funeral will take place at two o'clock this afternoon, from the Tehama House.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Very respectfully your obedient servant,</P>
109.sgm:<P>"RICHARD W. ALLEN.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">Nov</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Colonel Woodlief's untimely death was sincerely regretted by the large assembly of his firends who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>On the occasion of Colonel Woodlief's funeral I said: "My dear friends, you are doubtless all acquainted with the person and character of Colonel Woodlief, and the melancholy circumstances of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>"That was a gracious moment for Colonel Woodlief.  The Holy Spirit was touching the tender chords of his soul, and wooing him toward the cross of Jesus.  O, how sorry I am to-day that he did not yield to its blessed influence, and become a Christian!  Religion would have made him a happy and useful man; and we would have been spared the mournful duty we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:are called upon to perform to-day.  For had he possessed the love of God in his heart, the probability is he would not have been challenged; and had he been, he would have acted under a higher `code' than that adopted by chivalrous, though erring men.  He would have exhibited a <HI REND="italics">moral heroism</HI>
109.sgm:, in standing for his duty to God, himself, his wife, and to society, that would have put to shame the <HI REND="italics">moral</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"Will you let him?  I sincerely condole this dear woman in the deep sorrow of her very sad and sudden bereavement.  Let us bear her, in the hands of earnest prayer and faith, to the mercy-seat, and commend her to the compassion of Jesus."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>The occasion was one of great solemnity and sorrow.  We urged the audience to use all their influence to put down the murderous "code," on whose "honorable" altar their friend had been dishonored and sacrificed.</P>
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109.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>RESTITUTION.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE law of restitution is one of God's immutable laws.  The man who willfully wrongs his fellow-man cannot obtain the favor of God, until the spirit of this law is fulfilled in his heart; when, if it be within the range of possibility, he will give proof of it by actual restitution.  This law applies as directly to theft of character as it does to theft of property.  The man who, by detraction and slander, robs his neighbor of his good name, cannot obtain pardon from God, until by confession to the injured party, and reparation of the injury done, so far as it is in his power, he fulfills the demands of the law of restitution.  Many persons, and not a few professors of religion, are engaged in the miserable business of peddling slang, wholesale and retail; and yet they wonder why they do not enjoy the blessed assurances of Divine favor, as in other years.  The fact is, the Lord can as easily save old Lucifer from the pit, as save the slanderer, unless he submit to the claims of this immutable law of restitution.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>The practical operation of this law was illustrated by the case of a sailor who embraced religion in the "Bethel," in San Francisco, March, 1854.  He wrote a history of his awakening and conversion in verse, which was published soon after in the California Christian Advocate.  For the illustration of the point in question, I will here insert an extract from a letter I received from him the day he sailed from that port:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"SHIP WESTWARD HO, lying in SAN</P>
109.sgm:<P>FRANCISCO BAY, <HI REND="italics">March</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"KIND FRIEND,--I am afraid I did not give you such a cordial reception as I ought this morning; or thank you enough for your kindness in bringing me those books.  But you will pardon me, as your visit was unexpected; and I had just come out from a set of drunken sailors in the forecastle, where I had been to get my breakfast.  So be kind enough to receive my earnest thanks now, that I have time to address myself to you; though my ideas are very much confused, as I am forced to write this in the forecastle among a set of sailors, who are still half drunk, and swearing and talking around me.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I was very glad to see you this morning, as I was getting rather discontented with my situation, having heard a very bad name of the ship, but your visit drove my discontentedness away at once, and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"I will now give you a brief sketch of my life.  I was born in Chester, England, and brought up in London.  My friends are all religious.  My father died when I was thirteen.  I then went to live with my uncle, E. D., who is now, with his wife and family, living at New Town, Geelong, Australia.  I got tired of my uncle's house, and he apprenticed me to a baker at Bracknell in Berkshire, England, in 1847.  I served the baker about four months, when I robbed him and ran away.  Since then I have been going to sea.  I came here in the `Flying Dutchman,' in October last, and it is to make restitution to the baker that I am now going to England, by way of Calcutta and the States, not trusting to that act for my salvation, but to show my friends that my repentance is sincere.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Since I have been at sea I have given myself up to all sorts of wickedness, and I believe I have not been more than half a dozen times to a place of worship during the whole term of my sea life till I came to California.  Since then I have heard you preach several times.  O, sir! if my friends in England only knew what a change has come over me, how happy they would be.  I know they are always praying for me.</P>
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109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>"I often think of the text, `Be sure your sin will find you out.'  It has found me out often on the deep.  Perhaps you noticed my teeth being broken.  That was done by a fall from aloft when I was in the Mediterranean once.  If I had died then I should have gone to hell.  And several other times have I narrowly escaped death, because God kept me safe for this hour.  On Sunday last some old acquaintances were trying to persuade me to cheat the boarding master, and go with one of them in a sloop for more than twice the wages I am getting here, but I refused and went to the Bethel, not knowing that these things were going to happen.  At another time I should have gone with them in a minute.  I can see the Lord's hand in it all."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Here we see a young man, under the promptings of the law of restitution, which "the Holy Spirit writes on truly awakened hearts," leaving the land of gold, where he desired to stay, and where he had a fair opportunity to make money, to circumnavigate the globe for the purpose of restoring what he had taken when a boy.  God takes "the <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
109.sgm: for the deed," <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
109.sgm: when the deed is <HI REND="italics">impossible</HI>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIV.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>"SHANGHAEING" THE SAILORS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE humble, but just claims of the men of the sea, upon the consideration and sympathizing regards of the American people, have often been presented and urged, and as often disregarded and rejected, until within the last thirty years, since which time they have been, in part, acknowledged and honored.  The history of the sailor, his isolation from domestic society and the refinements and luxuries of home, his spirit of adventure, courage, patience, toils, sufferings by starvation, cold, shipwreck, confinement in foreign hospitals, adventures among savages and cannibals, his imprisonments and slow tortures, his death by the violence of war and piracy, by the violence of the hurricane that sweeps the ocean, and by the more dreadful tortures of wasting famine, has been written in detached fragments on every page of the history of commercial nations, and especially of our own country.  Strike out the history of the sailor, and American history would be what American commerce would be but for the presence of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>The complaint has often been made that the influence of the seamen of Christian nations upon the heathen, was one of the greatest barriers to the successful preaching of the Gospel to heathen nations that the missionary has had to encounter.  The principles and facts underlying this complaint, or the grounds on which it is based, will prove that seamen, if Christianized themselves, will be the most efficient auxiliaries in spreading the Gospel in heathen lands the missionary can employ.  Every enlightened, active Christian sailor is himself a missionary by direct appointment of Providence.  We cannot dispense with our regular missionaries to heathen lands, and they ought to be multiplied a hundredfold.  They are our foreign generals in the King's army, but we need private soldiers as well.  Why not enlist the sailors?  Seamen are as necessary in moral exploration and discovery in distant lands now, as they have been in the past in physical exploration and discovery.  They have many and great advantages in this work over the regular missionary.</P>
109.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">First</HI>
109.sgm:.  In regard to distance.  What trouble and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Second</HI>
109.sgm:<P>But the sailor gains access to their hearts at once through the channels of their dayly thoughts and feelings, commerce, trade, self-interest.  They have no prejudices against the sailor, such as bar their hearts against the missionary.  He is but a common man like one of themselves, and his familiar intercourse with them enables him to pick up and use their colloquial language with wonderful facility.</P>
109.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Third</HI>
109.sgm:.  In regard to priority of time.  Pree&die;mption in new countries insures a great advantage, morally as well as physically.  The sailor makes his mark in heathen countries a hundred years in advance of the call for a missionary meeting to devise ways and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:means for the appointment and support of a missionary in that distant field.  When the man of God reaches his distant field, he not only finds the sailor there and perfectly at home, but, also, that he has been received by the natives for a century past as a <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
109.sgm:<P>These various facts might be amply proved and illustrated from the history of the heathen nations of Asia and Japan, and the islands of the Pacific in general; but are they not patent to all?  Even in South America, the familiar resort of seamen for two hundred and fifty years past, the American Protestant Churches have two missionaries, one in Buenos Ayres and one in Valparaiso, on the opposite side of the continent.  I have briefly sketched these facts to remind the American people again of their obligations to the sailor, and to remind the Church of the important <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"But," says one, "we can more easily convert the heathen than the sailors."</P>
109.sgm:<P>When Jesus wanted missionaries to bear the title of "Sons of thunder," he selected from among the sailors of the Sea of Galilee, and had no difficulty in getting them converted.  I believe he wants many such now, and think that if the Church will do her part on behalf of seamen, the Saviour will have no difficulty in having them reconciled to God, and qualified for their work.  Poor sailors! what advantages have they had?  You have had pious parents, the restraints of the domestic circle, and of family religion, good maternal counsels, Sabbath-school instructions, and preaching every Sunday since you were a little boy; but the mass of seamen have none of these.  The little orphan boy was put aboard ship at the age of five years, and educated in the forecastle, under the tuition of the regularly graduated tars of the old school.  His character bears not one molding touch of a mother's prayers or counsels, nor the refinements of home circles.  The voice of prayer he never heard, except in the storm that wrecked the ship, but he heard the same praying ones swearing again, so soon as the storm abated.  He never was at preaching since he was born, and the warm gushings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>The following lecture on "Shanghaeing the sailors," was delivered on the Plaza to an attentive audience, in September, 1855, and I here give it as nearly verbatim as I can copy it from the records of memory.  After making some remarks on the character and condition of seamen, I said:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Gentlemen, the system of Shanghaeing, to which I invite attention, is almost as ancient as the commerce of nations; but the term Shanghaeing is a modern, California name, the origin of which we will give you in due time.  I say system of Shanghaeing, because it embraces a combination of laws and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"A single Shanghaeing fraternity (and we have twenty-three of them along our water front) embraces, 1.  A sailor landlord, alias `landshark,' alias `Shanghaer.'  2.  A drayman.  3.  A `longshoreman.'  4.  A sailor lawyer.  5.  A shipping-master.  The sailor landlord keeps a sailor boarding-house, bar, etc.  The longshoreman mans, with a pair of oars, a White-hall boat.  The sailor lawyer prosecutes suits against captains and owners of vessels, and otherwise collects seamen's wages, damages for maltreatment, etc.  The shipping-master provides crews for the ships as they `clear,' by contract with the ship-master, for five dollars per head.  The captain of the vessel ships none of his men directly; they must all come to him through the shipping office, where the shipping articles are kept for signature.  The whole contract for the voyage with the crew, is made by the shipping-master, who is to see them all aboard at the hour for sailing, and the captain has nothing to do with them till he gives the order for sailing.  The advance wages are paid, not in money, lest the sailor should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"We will now show you the practical working of the system.  A ship is `telegraphed,' and the `longshoreman' is ready with his boat.  He is in the stream, and listening for the command, `Let go the anchor.'  Immediately he is on deck, and perfectly delighted to meet his poor brother seamen from a long voyage.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"`How are you, my good fellows?  I'm glad to see you!  You've got to the right port at last.  The most glorious country in the world; a regular God-send for poor sailors!  A crew came in last week, and left their ship, as they all do here, and now every man of them is getting a hundred dollars a month to stay ashore.  If you'll all come along with me and put up at our house, I have chances waiting, and you shall have work ashore at once, and wages that are wages.'</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Thus he decoys the entire crew.  Sometimes he takes them right away in defiance of the captain.  On one occasion a captain ran out, with a small deringer in his hand, and the longshoreman said, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Now all hands must `treat.'  The landlord treats, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"The lawyer now comes in, and, through the landlord, gets all their claims against the ship, which he collects, either by a compromise or a suit at law, as may best suit the convenience of the captain, half of which he keeps for his trouble, and pays the other half over to the landlord on behalf of the sailors.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Next comes the shipping-master, who says, `I want twenty men for the ship Water Witch, by five o'clock this afternoon.'  `Very good,' says the landlord, `you shall have them.'  And often the very crew that came in the morning, are shipped before they recover from the first `drunk.'  When they wake up from their golden dreams, they find themselves at sea, in a strange ship, minus their `back' and `advance wages,' and most of their clothing.  A part of their clothing they find in their chests, and a bottle of whisky to keep to sober on, and to remember their friend, the landlord, by.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"When the sailor's bill at the boarding-house runs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:up to cover the `advance,' the landlord says to him, `Jack, you must ship.'  `I won't do it,' says Jack.  `You shall do it; you owe me a hundred dollars, and you must either pay it to-day, or go to sea in the ship Challenge.'  `O, I don't want to go to sea yet,' says Jack.  `O, well, never mind,' says the landlord, `you're a clever fellow, and you may stay at my house as long as you please, and pay me when you get ready.  Come, let's take a drink.'  Jack, very glad to be on so good terms with the landlord, walks up to the bar, and drinks to the health of the master.  In ten minutes he is as insensible as a log.  When he recovers from his mysterious sleep, he is out of sight of land.  He is awaked by the stern command, `Wake up here, and go to work.'  The poor fellow, rubbing his eyes, inquires, `What ship is this?  Whither bound?'  `To Hong Kong.'  `How did I get here?'  `Why, you shipped, sir,' says the master.  `I never shipped in this ship.'  `Yes, you did, sir, and you must go to work without any more grumbling,' replies the captain sternly.  `I want to see the articles,' says the sailor.  `Well, sir, here they are; what is your name?' says the captain.  `My name is John Waters.'  `There it is written on the articles in two places, once by the landlord, and once by the shipping-master.'  `I never signed those articles,' replies John.  `No,' replies the captain, `you were too drunk to write your name, but there's your mark.'  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"John takes the twenty-five dollars and goes to work.  But you ask, `What did the landshark give to the sailor to take away his senses so suddenly?'  It was a compound of whisky, brandy, gin, and opium, which, if a man drinks, he sinks into the Lethean stream for a dozen of hours.  In days past, when seamen were scarce in this port, very many landsmen, as well as seamen, were thus drugged and shipped.  On one occasion a shoemaker stepped to the bar to take a `drap,' and waked up the next day at sea, and did not get back to his business for nine months.  A brick-mason, as I was credibly informed, was thus shipped in the ship Hurricane.  Again, a drayman left his dray in the street, and went in to take a `nip,' and saw his dray no more.  I was told that a Spaniard, with his long spurs on, was thus shipped on the clipper Contest, Captain Brewster.  It happened, however, that they had not given him quite enough, and by the time they got <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"A man boasted that, having stabbed a fellow, he had escaped a term in the state prison by drugging and shipping his victim before the trial came on.  How many homeward-bound miners have been thus drugged, and robbed, and shipped, eternity will reveal.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Again, there are some men in California who will not drink rum, and the Shanghaer cannot dispense with the services of such, and the question is, How will he get hold of them?  Well, sirs, they have what is called the `Shanghae cigar,' which is throughly impregnated with opium and other poisons.  The smoking of one is equal to a dose of chloroform, with more lasting effects.  I will illustrate the practical importance of this cigar by a single case.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"A landlord, lacking a man to make up a crew, met a German glazier on Long Wharf, with a pack of glass on his back, and said to him: `Hie, my good fellow, don't you want a job?'  `Yes, sir.'  `I want you,' said the shark, `to put some glass in the stern of that ship,' pointing to a ship in the stream.  `Jump into my boat here, and I'll take you aboard.'  So off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"A sailor, who was well acquainted with their `arts,' boasted that they could not Shanghae him.  One day, a landlord said to him, `Tom, the clipper ship--has made up her crew, and is ready for sea; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:I am just now going to see her off.  There are some of your acquaintances aboard, Bill Evens and Jim Jacobs; wouldn't you like to go aboard with me and see them before they leave?  We'll be back in a few minutes.'  `Yes,' replied Tom, `I would like to see the boys.  I have business with Bill.'  `Very well, jump into my boat.'  So off they pulled.  On deck, Tom ran into the forecastle to see the boys, and the shark ran into the captain's office, saying, `Captain, I have brought you a splendid seaman, the best man in port; and that makes up the complement.  Here's his name on the articles.'  So he delivers the papers to the captain and leaves.  In a few minutes Tom came on deck to go ashore, and lo! the boat was gone.  He had nothing to do but to obey orders and go to work.  Thus to drown men's souls in rum, to poison, enervate, and destroy their bodies, and rob them of all their hard earnings, and leave their widowed mothers, wives, and children, who are dependent upon them, to beg or starve, is perfect sport for the `landshark.'  The great man-eater of the deep is satisfied to get the stray carcass of a sailor occasionally, but these dry land monsters must have soul, body, and estate of all the sailors, if possible.  You ask, `Why do not the sufferers have the fellows arrested, and brought to justice?'  Because, 1.  A man neither likes to confess that he was drunk, nor that he was so silly as to be duped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Arrests, however, have been frequently made here, as you are all aware, and sometimes justice is, in part, dealt out to them, but it is very hard to get evidence to convict them.  You say again, `Surely these California landsharks must be the worst in the world?'  I know not, but I have heard of some very bad ones in all our large ports.  Captain E. told me but a few days since, of the mate of an English ship which came to New-Orleans, who was drugged, and the next day found himself at sea in a strange American ship, shipped as a common sailor before the mast.  Another case he gave of a man who was put aboard, it was supposed, `dead drunk,' and his `advance wages' drawn, but the next morning, when the captain tried to wake his man up, he found that he was dead, and had been so for a day or two.  But you inquire again, `Why do the sailors put themselves into the power of these fellows, and allow themselves to be so imposed upon?'</P>
109.sgm:<P>"By the attractive power, on the sailor, of false sympathy, promises of money-making, liquor, old acquaintanceships, bad women, etc., he is induced to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:desert his ship, and go to the house of his <HI REND="italics">dear friend</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"The poor fellows cannot ship except through the shipping-office; and they won't have him there because he don't board in the right place.  Now there are exceptions to the rules of the trade we have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"This system, the same in principle in all large ports, varies in its practical operations according to local circumstances.  The term Shanghaeing is, as we remarked in the commencement, of Californian origin, and was introduced in this way:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"A few years ago, as many of you remember, it was very difficult to make up a crew in this port, expecially for any place from which they could not get a ready passage back to this land of gold.  Crews could be made up for Oregon, Washington Territory, the Islands, and the ports of South America; for from any of these places they could readily return.  Even from Canton, they could stand a pretty good chance of a direct `run' back; but from `Shanghae, in China,' there were seldom ever any ships returning to California.  To get back, therefore, from Shanghae, they must make the voyage round the world.  That was getting quite too far away from the `placers' of our mountains.  Hence to get `crews' for Shanghae, except enough of `Lascars' to get the ship to sea, they depended, almost exclusively, on drugging the men.  Crews for Shanghae were, therefore, said to be `Shanghaed;' and the term came into general use, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Now in the light of all these facts, especially the desertion of all the crews immediately on the arrival of the vessels, you may see how difficult it is for a seamen's chaplain to gain an extensive influence over the mass of seamen in this city.  In any other port, the preacher can board the vessels as they arrive; make the acquaintance of the whole crew, master and men; invite them to his house, and to his Bethel; and thus gain an influence over them for good.  But here, when we board a ship, we find none who came in her but the captain; and though he, as a gentleman, will treat you kindly, still he is mad, and complaining of the landlords, and lawyers, and sailors, and the port; and you cannot get in the neighborhood of his heart, with any kind of <HI REND="italics">California moral</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"The seamen have gone under the dominion of the Shanghaeing fraternity, and cannot be reached, only as we `take them on the wing,' by preaching in the streets.  In this way, through the mercy of the Lord, we have seen many of them brought to God, and happily converted; and we have, under all these discouragements, maintained a self-sustaining Bethel for seamen, in this port, for four years.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"In conclusion, the question arises, `What can be done to remedy these evils?'</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">First</HI>
109.sgm:.  We want a good `Seaman's Home,' under the direction of a good board of trustees.  Such an institution not only provides for the shipwrecked and destitute mariner, but furnishes a good `home' for all well-disposed seamen, where they can enjoy the elevating influences of good social society, bow at the family altar every night and morning, and be amply protected against the sharks.  A good home, properly conducted, will so compete with the common sailor boarding-houses, as to hold in check their diabolic plans and purposes, and cause them to imitate the `Home,' in order to retain custom.  In short, it works an outward reformation among the `sharks,' and insures pretty good treatment to sailors generally.  The `Home' is the place where shippers and captains of vessels, who do not wish to risk their ships and cargoes in the hands of drunken crews, can always go for sober, reliable, `able seamen,' to man their ships; and there a pious shipping-master can successfully compete with such as would work into the hands of the sharks.  Such an institution I have tried hard to establish in this port; but, owing to an extraordinary train of reverses which, during the year past, have befallen our city, my plans have been frustrated, greatly to my sorrow.<ANCHOR ID="n44-1">*</ANCHOR>
109.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n44-1">A society has been recently organized in this city, for the purpose of establishing a good Seaman's Home in this port.  I sincerely hope they will succeed beyond their most sanguine expectations.  September 25, 1856.</NOTE>
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109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Second</HI>
109.sgm:.  We want, in my opinion, a reform in the shipping laws, and practice, in regard to advance wages.  The `advance' was designed, no doubt, to work for the sailor's benefit by giving him, if poor, the means of supplying himself with clothing for the voyage.  But, receiving his advance in the form of a check on the shipping office, as we have shown, to be paid after he has gone to sea, lest he should use the money and refuse to go, he is obliged to go to somebody who will trust him to get his check discounted.  He generally has no friend who has money but his <HI REND="italics">dear</HI>
109.sgm: friend, the landshark, who takes the check, and, if he gives him any money at all, it is the remnant left after an extortionary discount has been taken off the face of the check.  In most cases, I should say, the advance is a dead loss to the sailor, and, in very many cases, a serious injury; for he often has to take it all out in bad whisky.  If the advance wages were cut off, it would be necessary for shippers and captains of vessels to lay in a little store of clothing for the crew, to meet emergences at sea, and also to see that their families were provided for, so far as they might suffer by the want of the advance.  Then, if necessary to have shipping-offices and shipping-masters, as now, let also a copy of the articles be kept aboard in the captain's office, so that good seamen can go directly to the master of the ship and engage to sail with him, just as any other class of men do in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Third</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"An old `tar' said once, `There's a merchant who respects the Bible.  The Bible says, take the strangers in.  That's the commandment he keeps; for he took me in on a pea jacket.'  The poor stranger from the sea has been `taken in' so often ashore, that he, with too much truth, utters the complaint of exiled David: `I looked on my right hand, but refuge failed me; no man would know me, no man cared for my soul.'</P>
109.sgm:<P>"We want good bethels for seamen; but we want more especially an earnest, patient manifestation of <HI REND="italics">personal</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>At the close of the address I sung the "Dying Sailor's Lament:" <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The frown of the night-storm had scarcely blown by,<LB>And the ocean was still in its roar;<LB>The wind had not ceased from disturbing the sky,<LB>When I ventured to walk on the shore.<LB>"I look'd on the sea, and a wreck had been toss'd<LB>On the breakers that roll'd from beneath,<LB>And bodies, still throbbing, were wash'd on the coast,<LB>And lay group'd in the stillness of death.<LB>"I sought, from among the pale corpses around,<LB>For some symptoms of life, but in vain;<LB>When I heard, in the distance, an indistinct sound<LB>Of a voice, that seem'd utter'd in pain:<LB>"`Farewell, giddy world,' it exclaim'd, with a sigh,<LB>`Disregarded and slighted by thee;.<LB>For my country I've fought, for my country I die,<LB>But my country has cared not for me.<LB>"`For thee, native land, my life I have spent,<LB>And have spill'd my heart's blood in thy wars,<LB>And yet, though your missions so far have been sent,<LB>You've neglected the souls of your tars.<LB>"`We were left on the brink of destruction to sleep,<LB>And no voice hath aroused us away;<LB>No arm was extended to collect the poor sheep<LB>That had wander'd so sadly astray.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:"`And now I must go to the doom that I dread,<LB>Through ages that ever must roll,<LB>With a life of iniquity heap'd on my head,<LB>Yet there's "no man hath cared for my soul."<LB>"He ceased, and I sought him among the pale dead,<LB>While he yet had the hour to repent,<LB>When a heart-rending groan, that yet thrills through my head,<LB>Was the close of his hopeless lament.<LB>"On the cold shore extended I found him at last,<LB>But his spirit had ceased to be there;<LB>His brow was still frowning, his hands were still clasp'd,<LB>And he look'd the mute form of despair."</HI>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLV.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>JAMES KING, OF WM., AND HIS MORAL PLATFORM.</P>
109.sgm:<P>AFTER all that has been said and written about James King, of Wm., very many of his best friends are anxious for further information in regard to his religious faith and prospects.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Again, the deep and almost universal sympathy and excitement, not only in this city, but throughout the state, produced by the assassination of Mr. King, is believed to be not mainly owing to personal attachment, great as it may justly have been, but to the fact that he was the people's exponent of many vital principles and questions of reform in California.  It, therefore, becomes our duty to define as nearly as we can, the moral aspect and bearings of this mighty tide of public feeling, and voluminous expression of public sentiment; and to inquire how they may best subserve the great ends of moral reform in this state.</P>
109.sgm:<P>It is not my purpose here to repeat my views in regard to the organization and operations of the Vigilance Committee, nor to reiterate what has been so truly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>I wish first to call attention to Mr. King's moral platform, to which the thousands, who vie with each other in honoring his memory, have tacitly committed themselves; and, secondly, to his religious faith and prospects.  Among the leading positions of his platform are the following:</P>
109.sgm:<P>1.  Anti-dueling.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Dueling, that bloody code which demands the violation of every other law, the surrender of every ennobling social and moral principle, and the sacrifice of life.  The man who submits to its claims is entitled, as a reward for his loyalty, to have his heart perforated with a discharge of cold lead, his brow encircled with a wreath of clotted blood, and to have inscribed on his tomb-stone, if he happens to have a friend left with respect enough for him to erect one to his memory, "Fell in a duel."  None who gaze upon it envy his "honors," and many exclaim, "He died as the fool dieth."  Strange as it may seem, this horrible code has obtained, to an alarming extent, in almost every state of our glorious confederacy.  The State of Illinois is an exception.  In a duel fought there, in the early settlement of that state, one of the combatants was killed; the other was tried, condemned, and executed for murder.  That ended the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>The case of Mr. Gilbert, a leading editor in our city, is fresh in the memory of many of you; shot down by a member of the Legislature, who resumed his seat unrebuked, and was soon afterward promoted to a high official station, which he has held nearly ever since.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Colonel Woodlief, poor fellow!  He used to hear me preach on the Plaza, and I have seen him weep under the appeals of truth like a child.  O, had he yielded to the gracious impulses of the Divine Spirit upon his heart, he might have been a living, happy man to-day; but he stood up as a target to be shot at, and was suddenly launched into eternity.  Their name is "legion" who have engaged in this miserable business.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The King platform repudiates wholly this barbarous code.  James King had the moral courage to expose the moral cowardice of such as felt it necessary to resort to such means to manifest their courage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>I will simply enumerate other prominent positions advocated by Mr. King, as,</P>
109.sgm:<P>2.  Anti-gambling.</P>
109.sgm:<P>3.  To drive out of the city all houses of prostitution.</P>
109.sgm:<P>4.  To expose "corruption in high places."</P>
109.sgm:<P>5.  To purify the ballot-box, and promote <HI REND="italics">none but honest men to office</HI>
109.sgm:<P>6.  To furnish employment for the industrious poor who seek a home in our new country.</P>
109.sgm:<P>7.  To promote public schools and educate the masses.</P>
109.sgm:<P>We would respectfully submit an amendment to Mr. King's position on this subject, namely, That the Bible, not as a sectarian book, but the revelation of God to man, be honored with a place in our common schools.  Any system of education is radically defective which does not teach the moral law, and acquaint the pupil with the world's Redeemer.</P>
109.sgm:<P>8.  To oppose infidelity of every form, and vindicate the Bible as the word of God.  Let adulterers, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:robbers, and murderers believe and feel that no moral responsibility attaches to their conduct, that they can satiate their corrupt passions and execute their malicious purposes, and that if they can only manage to escape the action of criminal law, which they always think they can do, they have nothing else to dread, and you thereby "break the bands of God asunder," and sweep away the best safeguards of society.  The following extract from the Bulletin of January 26, will exhibit Mr. King's position on this subject: "A notice of a dinner to be given in this city in celebration of a birthday of a noted infidel was sent to us yesterday for publication, which we declined.  In our younger days, and before the down had fairly left our chin, we were foolish enough to entertain some doubts as to the truth of our holy religion.  For some three years we devoted as much of our time, after leaving the counting-house, as we could, to the study of the Bible, and such books as treated of it.  As before stated, we are not a member of any Church, but the result of that three years' study has been worth more to us than all the rest of our life, and we would not exchange the belief we have in the existence of God for all the wealth this world can produce."  Will the masses of California, who have taken position with Mr. King on this platform, stand to it, and, by the utmost efforts of all legitimate influence, promote its ends?  I may add, that the people, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:by their demonstrations against crime within the past fortnight, bear unmistakable testimony to the fact of the deep depravity of the human heart; and, secondly, to the necessity of retributive justice, as indispensable in promoting good government.  If necessary in the administration of human governments, is it not necessary in the administration of the Divine?  And if God certainly will "take vengeance on them that know not God, and that obey not the Gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ," then we see the necessity of reconciliation with God through the redemption which is in Christ Jesus, and a <HI REND="italics">reformation</HI>
109.sgm: of <HI REND="italics">heart</HI>
109.sgm:<P>On the twenty-fourth day of February, 1843, a young man of twenty-one years, in Georgetown, D.C., <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Will you then," said the minister, "stand in presence of the congregation, and answer such questions as I may ask?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Yes," he replied; "I have no objections to that," and did accordingly, and was admitted.</P>
109.sgm:<P>His father had often said of him, because of his uniqueness of character, that "he was a drove by himself;" and it was a matter of doubt in many minds whether or not he would ever become a very docile sheep in the ecclesiastical flock, for he appeared to be a peculiar original thinker, and always spoke <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Brethren and sisters, I have been listening attentively to all that has been said during the progress of this meeting, and I cannot say, upon the whole, that I am pleased with it.  Brother--there says that he is `a great sinner, on  of the vilest of the vile.'  Now, I don't believe that, nor do I believe that he thinks so himself; and if a man were to come in here from the street, and say of him what he has asserted, he would hit him.  And Sister--there says that she `sins dayly in thought, word, and deed.'  I think, friends, when we come to class we ought to tell our experience, and tell nothing but the truth, and be consistent.  I thank the Lord that I am not a vile sinner; but having sought and obtained the remission of all my sins, I stand here a free man in Jesus Christ, and, by the help of God, I don't intend to sin any more."</P>
109.sgm:<P>His very sensible, though severe remarks gave offense; complaint was made to the minister against the intractable young member, and he was called to answer.  He was admonished and borne with, but a reciprocal dissatisfaction between himself and the Church was kept up, till finally he left it, but continued a God-fearing and praying man, and became a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1843-4, he commenced the study of theology.  In addition to his duties to his young family and his business as a banker's clerk, he applied himself diligently to the study of the Bible, Greek Testament, and other theological works for several years.  That young man was James King, of Wm.</P>
109.sgm:<P>It is doubtless to this period of his history that he refers when he says, in the quotation we have given from an editorial in the Bulletin: "For some three years we devoted as much of our time, after leaving the counting-house, as we could, to the study of the Bible and such books as treated of it.  The result of that three years' study has been worth more to us than all the rest of our life."  There is also an evident allusion to the same period of his history, embracing his conversion, in his reply to "a friend," in the Bulletin of January 26, wherein he says: "Some twelve or fourteen years ago, <HI REND="italics">when we were moved to inquire into those things which make for our eternal good</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Owing, probably, to his intense application to business and study, his health gave way, and he was led to seek its restoration on these healthful shores as early as 1848.  These details, though not all matter of personal knowledge, were derived by me from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In California he never joined any Church, assigning as a reason, that his peculiarities were such, that he could not, in every particular, affiliate with any one Church, while his general hearty good-will for the cause of God led him to help and encourage all.  His catholicity on this subject is manifested in "a Church article" of the Bulletin, of February 25.  We insert a short extract as follows: "We do not meddle with the creed of any Church.  We view them all as working by different means and ways to the same end.  At one end of the line we place the Roman Catholic, and at the opposite extremity the Unitarian Church, all the others being between these two."  Then speaking of the progressive spirit of the Gospel, and the enlightening effect on the human mind, even of sectarian controversy, and the assaults of infidelity, he concludes in these words: "And the benefit of this advance in Christian knowledge is not enjoyed by the Church membership alone, but by those also in Christendom everywhere, who do not belong to any Church.  By the preaching of the Gospel the world is better off to-day than it was some hundred years back.  Morality is better defined, and gains strength just in proportion as the Church flourishes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Mr. King's moral character and conduct in California, though not decidedly Christian, would, I believe, have reflected more credit on any Church than that of a large proportion of her members, and his influence as a journalist has extended itself more widely, in that he was not tied to any party, political or religious.  His case is unique, and does not furnish a precedent to be followed by the masses in regard to the duty of Church-fellowship.</P>
109.sgm:<P>But the question arises, Why should such a man come to such an end?  Or, in the language of his bereaved widow, who manifested the most perfect self-possession from the time he received the fatal shot till his spirit departed, when, bending over his cold clay, she said, as she gave vent to the pent-up grief of her agonized heart, "I shall not disturb you now, my husband," and then exclaimed, " <HI REND="italics">Why did they kill you?  Why did they kill my noble husband</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Upon that question we remark, that the essential cause of death exists in our moral relation to God.  When we have finished the work assigned us in our probation, or filled up the measure of iniquity, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>There are doubtless many other reasons justified by infinite wisdom.  Why could not the prayers of the good avail to save the life of James King?  There were certainly many prayers offered up, and much hope entertained.  Christians have not lived right in California, and hence their faith is feeble, even when they have a positive promise on which to exercise it; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:but in this case they had no promise.  I said to Mr. King's boy of twelve years: "You must ask your Father in heaven, for the sake of Jesus Christ, to make your father well."  He looked up at me instantly, saying: "I did."  Soon after I made the same request of a younger brother, and in the same prompt manner he made the same reply: "I did, and I think he will do it."  Thought I, here are "two agreed," and here alone is a lever of faith sufficient to raise a dying father, if they but had a fulcrum of Divine promise.  I may ask with unwavering confidence for pardon, holiness, and heaven, for I have immutable promises on which to rest my faith.  I may legitimately ask for worldly good, health, or the restoration of my friend, but unless the Holy Spirit reveal a Divine assurance in my heart, I have no certain foundation for my faith.  I think it probable the good people of California had leverage power sufficient to have raised their hero, but they had no fulcrum.  His work was done.  I reported myself to James King immediately after he was shot.  He asked me to stay by him, and taking his ring off his finger, he handed it to me, saying: "Take care of this."  "For your wife?"  "Yes."  I studied his wants, and watched by his bedside day and night, with alternate intervals of rest, till he died.  I will not go into a detail of the incidents of that most anxious week.  He suffered much, but was invariably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVI.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE FOUNTAIN OPENED.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday afternoon, the first day in June, 1856, as I was crying to a multitude on Washington-street, "Be ye reconciled to God," the Vigilance Committee arrested C. P. D., alias "Dutch Charley."  From the place of his arrest to "Fort Vigilance," a full quarter of a mile, there seemed to be a flowing sea of excited humanity.  When this great multitude began to disperse, I took a favorable position to catch the ebbing tide, and sung:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"There is a fountain fill'd with blood<LB>Drawn from Immanuel's veins,<LB>And sinners, plunged beneath that flood,<LB>Lose all their guilty stains," etc.</HI>
109.sgm:<P>And then spoke, in substance, as follows: "I have something of great importance to say to all Vigilance Committee men, and to all anti-Vigilance Committee men.  The Prophet Zechariah, contemplating the saving power of the Gospel of Jesus, said: `In that day there shall be a fountain opened in the house of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Are you an infidel?  If so, do you not acknowledge some standard of right, some rule of moral conduct by which we should be governed?  Have you lived up to that rule?  Have you not violated it a thousand times?  By the law of your own conscience you are a sinner before God, and have need of his pardoning mercy.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Are you a Mohammedan?  You have broken the laws of the Koran; you are verily guilty in the sight of God.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"Are you a Jew?  What have you done with your ceremonial law and your sacrifices?  Have you kept that true standard of morals which God gave to Moses, the Decalogue?  O ye money-loving, Sabbath-breaking, God-forgetting, Christ-rejecting Jews, `How shall ye escape the damnation of hell?'</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Are you a Catholic?  When have you been to confession?  You have made yourself so vile by willful, persevering rebellion against God, that the blessed Virgin would be ashamed to own you, if she were here to-day.  You are so polluted that she would not look at you.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Are you a Protestant?  You believe the Bible, the Old and New Testament.  You take the ten commandments as the great moral `straight-edge' by which to find the irregularities of heart and life.  Have you lived up to the line?  Do you now love the Lord your God with all your heart, soul, mind, and strength? and do you love your neighbor as yourself? and do you, according to the law of Christ, `love your enemies, and pray for them that despitefully use you and persecute you?'  You know very well you do not.  You love worldly pleasure, and sin, and yourself.  You love those neighbors only who flatter your vanity and contribute to gratify your fleshly lusts.  You don't love your enemies a bit; and as for praying for them, you do not even pray for your own poor soul.  You are, indeed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Look here!  Do you see this beautiful little girl?" at the same time patting the cheek and smoothing the hair of a lovely little girl of about three years, on the knee of a gentleman by my side.  "On these little cheeks the blush of guilty shame never rose; the little heart that throbs within this breast beats in harmony with God; no stain of willful sin defiles her conscience.  `Of such is the kingdom of heaven.'  What blessed innocence, humility, and confiding simplicity.  Look at her."  A streetful of sinners looked, and many wept.  "Here is where you all once were; every one of you had then the innocence of this little girl, and were members of Christ's spiritual family.  Had you died then, as some of your little brothers and sisters did, with them you would have gone to dwell with Jesus and holy angels; but where are you now?  O how far you have gone from home.  I might justly challenge the mathematical skill of the angel Gabriel to compute the distance of your flight, or number the steps of sinful departure from infantile innocence to your present wretched <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>I then pressed the invitation to all to come to the "fountain opened," the fountain of redeeming mercy in Christ, by a variety of arguments and illustrations, as the Spirit gave me utterance.  Good order and great seriousness prevailed throughout the assembly.  Eternity will reveal the fruit.</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE MISSIONARY TO NINEVEH.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON the eighth of June, 1856, at half past four in the afternoon, I took my stand on the steps of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company's Office, in full view of "Fort Vigilance," the great center of attraction in this city for some weeks past.</P>
109.sgm:<P>When a boy, I sometimes went hunting, and always tried to go where the game was.  My commission reads, "Go ye into all the world, and preach the Gospel to every creature;" I therefore always look out to see where the greatest number of those creatures congregate, and try to take every advantage of "wind and tide," so as to bear the message of mercy to the greatest possible number, under the most favorable circumstances the case will allow.</P>
109.sgm:<P>On this occasion I got the "windward" of a large, attentive audience.  The subject of discourse was the great reformation in ancient Nineveh, under the preaching of Jonah; just such a reformation as we need here in San Francisco.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>Speaking of the instrumentality by which the great work was brought about, the discourse ran as follows:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"God wanted a missionary to go and preach to the Ninevites, and called to this responsible work a Hebrew by the name of Jonah, saying to him: `Arise, and go to Nineveh, that great city, and cry against it; for their wickedness is come up before me.'  But Jonah, like Moses, his great ancestor, begged to be excused.  He probably, in effect, said: `Lord, I am "slow of speech," and cannot succeed as a preacher; the distance is great, and I know not that I should live to see Nineveh; and then, if thy servant should stand up in the streets of that wicked city, the people would stone him to death.  And even if I should get there safely, and preach successfully, and the people should repent, thou wilt not bring upon them the judgments of thy word.  "For thou art a gracious God, and merciful, slow to anger, and of great kindness, and repentest thee of the evil."  So the people will call me a lying impostor, and perhaps take away my life; and then relapse into idolatry worse than ever.  Lord, I cannot go to Nineveh.  Be merciful to thy servant, I cannot go.'  When he found that the Lord would not release him, he determined to get out of the way.  Some young men, when called to preach the Gospel, suddenly take a notion to get married, and go into some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:complicated co-partnership business; so binding themselves that they cannot honorably withdraw for a term of years.  But `Jonah rose up to flee into Tarshish from the presence of the Lord.'  Tarshish is believed to be the same as Tartessus, in Spain, near the Straits of Gibraltar, at the opposite point of the compass from Nineveh.  Darkness immediately follows disobedience.  Jonah thought: `O! if I can only get a passage to Tarshish, the Lord will not find me, and I will be free from this dreadful responsibility.'  So many of you thought when you started for California.  You said in your hearts, `I have been teased so much about going to Nineveh, or doing some other unpleasant business for the Church, I'll go off to California, where I can do as I please, without let or hinderance.  I'll have done with father's rebukes, and mother's entreaties and tears, and this everlasting preaching about hell and judgment.  I'll leave all responsibility behind, and I'll be a free man for once in my life.'  And lo! ye find that God is in California too, and he has been speaking to you by various providences, in thunder tones; and the same unwelcome Gospel truths and threatenings of future retribution peal forth unexpectedly upon you, even from the corners of the streets; and you are so disappointed in the felicitous freedom of California life, that you begin to feel, `O that I had a mother's prayers and counsels to guide and comfort me as in other years.'  I will tell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"So Jonah went down to Joppa, the nearest sea-port to Jerusalem, and, walking along the beach, he saw a sign on a ship: `For Tarshish; will positively sail at the sixth hour to-day.'  Good, thought he, I've just come at the nick of time.  Though guilty and downcast, he now put on rather a hopeful, courageous appearance; and though a little frightened at the sound of his own voice, he hailed pretty well for a `runaway,' `Ship a-hoy!  Is the captain aboard?'  `Yes,' replied the officer of the deck, `walk aboard, sir.  You'll find the captain there in his office, sir.'  With a slow, hesitating step, Jonah entered the captain's room.  `Well, stranger,' said the captain, `what can I do for you?'  `I--I--I wa-want to go to Tarshish, sir.'  `Very well, sir; we sail to-day at the sixth hour.'  `What is the fare, captain?'  `Thirty pieces of silver.'  So he paid the fare, and went down into it, (the steerage,) to go with them unto Tarshish, from the presence of the Lord.  Jonah immediately `turned in,' and fell into a sound sleep.  When conscience is gagged by violence, and its voice is drowned by the whirlwind of passion, you generally get one sound, though guilty, sleep, before it is able to rally and reassert its injured prerogatives.  But rally it will; and, like a lioness robbed of her whelps, will pounce upon you, and tear you asunder.  I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Poor deserter.  You may imagine how dreadfully sea-sick he was, and how his conscience lashed him, and how his guilt exposed him to the scrutiny of the crew, and to the vengeance of God and man.  So they pressed the question, `Stranger, tell us what thou hast done to provoke the gods, and bring all this evil upon us?  What is thine occupation? and whence comest thou?  What is thy country? and of what people art thou?'  And Jonah told them all about it, his only relief being in confessing the truth.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"A young man, whose name I need not mention, left the Eastern States and came to California for the sole purpose of concealing his sins and shame.  After wandering a few months in the mountains, he came to San Francisco sick.  In a dreary room in Dr. Shuler's hospital, I saw him struggle with death.  The flickering light of a small lamp seemed only to make the darkness more perceptible, and render the scene more gloomy.  His piteous groans echoed in the depths of my soul.  I urged him to pray, but, said he, `It's no use.  It is too late now; I am lost; but I want to tell you what a sinner I have been.  I have concealed my sins till they have become a consuming fire in my heart.  I feel some relief in telling what I have for years been trying to conceal.'  He then detailed his crimes, and told how he had deceived his parents, resisted the entreaties of his pious aunt, and grieved away the Spirit of God.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"Sinner, those deeds of darkness you conceal with so much care, and would not have me spread out before this audience for a fortune, and would not have your mother know for all the gold of these mountains, will so sting your conscience in death that you will most gladly seize the small relief of open confession.  `Then said they unto Jonah, What shall we do unto thee, that the sea may be calm unto us?  For the sea wrought, and was very tempestuous.  And he said unto them, Take me up, and cast me forth into the sea; so shall the sea be calm unto you; for I know that for my sake this great tempest is upon you.'</P>
109.sgm:<P>"But those generous-hearted tars, though they had lost their freight on his account, and were exposed to such peril, were unwilling to cast the guilty man into the sea, but `rowed hard to bring the ship to the land,' but the tempest raged with increasing violence.  Then they all called on Jonah's God, saying, `We beseech thee, O Lord, we beseech thee, let us not perish for this man's life, and lay not upon us innocent blood.'  When they saw there was no alternative but to drown the preacher, or all perish together, the captain said, `Mr. Jonah, we are sorry for you, but you see our fix.'  `So they took up Jonah, and cast him forth into the sea.'  The sailors watched him with tearful eyes as he struggled amid the raging billows, till the cry simultaneously arose from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Is it not probable that Nehemiah, or whoever it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"`And the word of the Lord came unto Jonah the second time, saying, Arise, go unto Nineveh, that great city, and preach unto it the preaching that I bid thee.  So Jonah arose, and went unto Nineveh, according to the word of the Lord.'  By what route or conveyance we are not informed; but he did not deviate from his `orders.'  He dared not, even if he had been inclined, lest a whale or some other monster should seize him.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Let every man whom God has called to preach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVIII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE DOWNFALL OF THE HAMAN FAMILY.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Sunday afternoon, the twenty-second of June, 1856, at the corner of Sacramento and Liedsdorf streets, I announced as my text, to a very large audience, "The adversary and enemy is this wicked Haman."</P>
109.sgm:<P>The day before, Saturday, the twenty-first of June, was a day of great excitement in the city.  Judge T., one of the supreme judges of the State of California, stabbed Sterling A. H.  The great bell of the Vigilance Committee struck three times, and in a moment the whole city was in commotion.  All business was suspended, stores were closed, dray-horses were stripped of their gear, leaving the loaded drays in the streets, to join the cavalcade.  In half an hour nearly the whole force of the Vigilance Committee, numbering six thousand men, were under arms.  Long columns of muskets, bayonets, and sabers gleamed in the sunlight; but all in solemn silence.  No drum, no shouting, naught but the stern command of the officers.  The only distingushing badge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Judge T. had taken refuge in the "Armory of the California Blues," the head-quarters of what was called "the law and order party."  The armory was immediately surrounded by detachments of the vigilant army, who demanded the prisoners and all the fire-arms and munitions of war contained in the building.  The doors were opened by the surrendering party, and the "Vigilants" took possession.  On the bulletin board inside were seen posted notices for a grand parade of the law and order forces, to be on Sunday, the twenty-second, at ten o'clock A.M., and a review of the army by Gen. V. E. H.  Judge T. and some other prisoners were placed in two close carriages, the grand corte&grave;ge formed around them, and marched in solemn procession to "Fort Vigilance," on Sacramento-street.  The front ranks consisted of a large body of infantry, next in order the carriages containing the prisoners, next several dray loads of muskets and cartridge-boxes, the trophies of war, followed by a large guard of infantry.  The cavalry brought up the rear.  After conveying the prisoners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>A mass-meeting of about ten thousand citizens, held a few days before, endorsed the position and operations of the Vigilance Committee; and it is confidently asserted by a majority of the public journals of the city, that nine tenths of the inhabitants of the city and of the state approve the action of the committee, in view of the wrongs this community has so long suffered, and feel great security of life and property under their administration.  I always, so far as I know the right, declare my approval of the right, and condemnation of the wrong; but I belong to no party, and take no active part on any exciting party question, extraneous to the one appropriate cry of my calling, "Behold the Lamb of God, that taketh away the sin of the world."</P>
109.sgm:<P>The foregoing is a hasty review of the surroundings of the preaching occasion to which I have invited <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:attention.  The story of Esther is familiar to all Bible readers.  I will, therefore, simply note a few points in the application of the discourse in question: I made Mordecai "the personification of that stern religious principle which constitutes the integrity and stability of the Church in all ages.  He worshiped God, and God only; he recognized the authority of the `higher law,' and never hesitated between the alternatives of `obeying God or man.'  And yet he sat at the gate, comparatively unknown, poor, and despised.  Esther was our representative of active virtue, implying spiritual understanding, submission to the will of God, unwavering faith in Jesus Christ, and all the manifest graces and fruits consequent upon the exercise of it.  She is very nearly related to Mordecai.  Bigthan and Teresh were representatives of a large class of murderers, gamblers, and `ballot-box stuffers.'  They aspired to be princes in the city of Shushan.  They have constituted the aristocracy of the city of San Francisco, moving in courtly pomp and splendor.  Everybody knew them to be nonproducing, worthless men in society; but it was not suspected that they would put on the livery of the law, subvert the reign of justice, clandestinely trample under foot the elective franchise, and other sacred rights of American freemen.  Bigthan &amp; Co. despised Mordecai, would take no notice of him, and supposed he took no notice of them; but Mordecai is always a loyal subject, and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"The avowed object of the Vigilance Committee is to clear this city of the whole clan of Bigthans and Tereshes.  Mordecai has been marking their movements for years, and has testified against them.  Esther has a voice in the counsels of the Committee.  Like an angel of mercy, she hovers over the executive in their deliberations.  They have received wise counsel from her lips.  But should they succeed in exterminating or banishing all the Bigthans of the land, still Haman remains.  We have to look out for him, for he has great wealth and influence; and though he will not now oppose the counsels of Esther, he is a most dangerous man.  Haman is an infidel; he repudiates the word and authority of God.  He is a tyrant, he has no regard for the claims of suffering humanity.  He is an enemy of all righteousness, because not consonant with his lascivious passions and plans.  He is a political demagogue, who would sacrifice a whole nation of Mordecais on the altar of his ambitious pride, and would pay `one million one hundred and nineteen thousand pounds sterling' for the accomplishment of his ambitious and malicious purposes.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"I heard a man, yesterday, say that he had expended ten thousand dollars to be elected sheriff, and was disappointed after all.  Haman is the fellow, sitting in he counsels of the Vigilance Committee, side by side with Esther the queen, that will give us trouble yet.  He is a most wily politician.  Mordecai will have to sit at the gate in California for several years to come, before we shall be able to dispose of this dangerous foe.  He seems very kind and pliable now; but, as he acquires influence, he will the more despise Mordecai, `and plot against the just, and gnash upon him with his teeth.'  But let Mordecai maintain his fidelity to God, and do his duty in California; let Esther maintain her purity of heart, and her activity in Christian enterprise; and let all the people of Mordecai and Esther fast and pray, and God will make the counsel of Haman like that of Ahithophel.  He will lift up the head of his servant Mordecai.  Don't be discouraged, my good fellow; `commit thy way unto the Lord, trust also in him, and he will bring it to pass.  He shall bring forth thy righteousness as the light, and thy judgement as the noon day.'  And God shall `bring it to pass' so unexpectedly, and so opportunely, that you will exclaim with David the king, `When the wicked, even mine enemies, and my foes came upon me to eat up my flesh, they stumbled and fell.'  Just as they were about to devour me `they stumbled and fell, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Haman and his party exulted in his promotion, as the sole guest, with King Ahasuerus, at the queen's banquet, and regarded that as an unmistakable indication of the final success of all his ambitious schemes.  But there's that stubborn Mordecai at the gate; he cannot longer be tolerated.  Mrs. Haman, true to the class of Jezebels and Herodiases to which she belongs, the very antipodes of Esther, suggested the happy expedient.  `Let a gallows be built seventy-five feet high,' and go early to-morrow morning, and obtain from the king a death-warrant for Mordecai, and hang him, (or impale him, rather,) and then thou canst enjoy the banquet of the queen.  Strange as it may seem, the king could not sleep that night, and said to his scribe, `Bring hither the book of records of the chronicles, and read before me.'  The chronicles of Eastern kings were written by the best poets, in measured verse, so that the reading of them was very entertaining; much more so, we should think, in view of their historic worth, than the novels of modern days.  Providentially, the scribe read `where it was written that Mordecai had told of Bigthan and Teresh.'  and was thus the means of saving the king's life, and the king said, `Stop, sir; what honor and dignity hath been done to Mordecai for this?'  `Then said the king's servants that ministered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Did you ever in all your lives see a man so crestfallen?  Judge T. did not feel worse yesterday when arrested by the Vigilance Committee.  So here comes Haman, with the royal apparel and the crown, leading the king's horse to the gate.  There sits Mordecai," pointing to Captain E., who has proved himself a worthy representative of Mordecai for six years in California, "stern in his integrity, but how greatly astonished, when his old enemy said, `Mordecai, stand up, sir, and allow me to put upon you these royal robes and this crown.  Mount the king's horse, sir.'  And down the street they went, Haman leading the king's charger, and with choked and broken utterances, proclaiming, `Thus shall it be done unto the man whom the king delighteth to honor.'  The fate of the Haman family is sealed.  The redemption of Mordecai and his people secured.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`God moves in a mysterious way<LB>His wonders to perform.'</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"Only let Mordecai and Esther do their duty in California: let the infant Church of Jesus in this wicked land, `stand in the ways, and see and ask for the old paths, where is the good way, and walk therein,' `obeying God rather than man,' though now sitting at the gate in rags, and the time will come when Mordecai's God will say to her, `Arise, shine, thy light is come, and the glory of the Lord is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIX.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>LETTERS FROM HOME.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THERE are many objects and places of attraction in California.  Indeed, it is altogether a very attractive country, as its population of three hundred thousand, attracted from all parts of the world in the space of eight years, will clearly prove.  There is a charm in its climate, its scenery, bays, rivers, valleys, mountains, and ocean; its varieties of production, mineral and vegetable, and its game, fowl, fish, elk, deer, grizzly bears, etc.  The great magnet is its rich deposits of virgin gold in banks that never fail, and on which every man may draw.  Only make a run on them, and get them into liquidation, and they will pay all the better.  But the greatest local attraction, of the heterogeneous masses here attracted, is the post-office.  Thousands of men here, who never were absent from their wives and children a week at any one time, till they started for California; thousands of young men, who scarcely were ever out of sight of the smoke of their mothers' chimneys till they bade good-by to "the old folks at home," to try <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:their fortunes in the land of gold; hundreds of young lovers, bound by sleepless affection and plighted faith to virgins beautiful and lovely, to whom they would certainly return in two years, which was all the time any decent man could ask to make a fortune in California.  Six months would probably realize all their hopes, but to be certain of no disappointment to the fair ones, the time was set for two years.  How desolate the hearts of these different classes of men, in the absence of all those objects of home attraction and affection, in this vast social Sahara.  The only substitutes for them were the little drops and glimpses of social life and light obtained through the post-office.  A view of the office at San Francisco, with which I have been familiar for more than seven years, will describe, in the main, all the post-offices of this coast.  At first they had "two windows of delivery."  One was for the "navy and army, the French, Spanish, Chinese, clergy, and the ladies."  All the rest of mankind in California were waited on at the other window, provided they had time and patience to take their turn, and work their passage to it.  Every man had to wait his turn, as the country mill boys used to do.  The line of anxious faces, single file, was, on the arrival of every mail, from one to three hundred yards long.  To travel from the rear end to the long-desired "window" was a work of from one to five hours.  This long line hardly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:ever began to shorten for half a day after it was formed.  Its slow travelers, never in such a hurry before, making from one to two steps in their journey every minute, were entertained and fed, or bored by the newsboys, fruit boys, pop corn boys, and candy boys.  The boys, who have so hard work to keep up with our fast men, or get a hearing in the streets, seem always to feel that they have a rare advantage over the men of the line, and improve it to the best of their skill.  The slow travelers are weary, hungry, have calls of pressing importance, and their time more valuable than gold, but they must not break rank, or they will lose their turn, and have to begin again.  Men sometimes bought a chance near the window for five dollars, and got their letters without much delay, while the speculators in chances went back and commenced anew.  To look at the anxious countenances of men at the windows was painfully interesting.  One man gets a letter, and immediately breaks it open, expecting "news from home," but, lo! it is a letter of introduction from some man he never saw, who has "taken the liberty of referring a particular friend" to him for information, and the "particular friend not meeting with him so soon as he expected, dropped the letter into the post-office."  He tears up his only letter, and hopes never to be introduced to that "particular friend."  Another is waiting in great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Please, sir, look again," says the expectant.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Nothing for you, sir."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Turning away, he says: "I came round Cape Horn, and they were to commence writing after I had been out a month, and now it is eight months, and I haven't got a letter."</P>
109.sgm:<P>The next one gets a letter, and breaking it open, as he turns away, you see him trembling till black with agonized emotion.  You at once know that some dread bolt from that letter, but little less powerful than a thunder-bolt, has struck him.  You see no tears, for they seem to be frozen up in their fountains.  The only utterance you hear from his lips, broken and involuntary, as he retires from the crowd, is: "O, my God, she is dead!"</P>
109.sgm:<P>The next man awaits his portion with trembling.  He gets a letter, pays forty cents postage on it, and breaks it to get the news from home.  "Pshaw!" says he, "I think a fellow writing to know whether he had better come to California, might pay the postage on his letter.  I shall write him to stay at home."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Another standing at the window says: "I have not received a letter for six months, and I expect it will be just so this time."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Perhaps," said I, "you do not write to your friends?"</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"Yes, I do," said he, "but I can get no answer."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Nothing for you," says the post clerk to him, and he turns away with a sigh.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A man takes out a letter, and reads, and presses it to his lips, and reads on, and kisses it again and again.  His tears break through a "windrow" of smiles on his face.  It is from his dear wife; and John, and Mary, and Lizzie have all added a postscript.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"In the course of human events," the post-office was moved down to the "Portsmouth House," on the west side of the Plaza.  There, with a great increase of room, the windows were multiplied.  The navy and army had a place to themselves.  The French, Spanish, and Chinese had their window, while the ladies and clergy still kept company to the same window.  The great undistinguished masses were divided into classes by the letters of the alphabet.</P>
109.sgm:<P>All whose names commenced with a letter included between A and D fell into the A and D line.  Another class for the window of E and H; and so on through the alphabet.  This was quite an improvement on the old system.  By and by we had "boxes," in which the letters could be seen from the outside.  "Box rent" was quite an "item," but that was nothing to a man anxious to get "letters from home."  Then, again, we had boxes with doors opening on the outside, and the renter of the box carried the key, so that he could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>A true-hearted girl did write to her lover to the last, and when her lover's trunks were sold at public auction to pay his funeral expenses, these letters, too sacred for such an exposure, nevertheless bore testimony to her unwavering affection.  "They were letters from home," and they soothed a dying man.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>Again to the window.  Another poor fellow, as he turns away in deep disappointment, says: "I have not received a letter from my family for two years.  Thinking it might be the fault of the Mountain Express men, I have come down here, three hundred miles, and have spent one hundred and fifty dollars to try to get one letter from home, and I can't get it.  I'll just quit writing!  It's no use!"</P>
109.sgm:<P>The next man gets a letter; breaks it, reads and laughs.  Reads and laughs again, seemingly unconscious that anybody sees him; except, indeed he imagines himself really in the presence of those with whom his soul is evidently conversing.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Nathan Withers, a seaman, who had not received a letter from his family in Scotland for seven years, wrote them to address their letters to my care.  In due time, the long silence was broken, the letter came; and the old tar, unused to weeping, wept for gladness, as he read, from the hand of his wife, about his children that had grown up in his absence.  They had received his letters, and money for their support regularly, and had written him; but, in his frequent changes, he had not received a letter for seven years.  The post-office has usually been closed on the Sabbath in San Francisco, from the first, except when the mails arrive on Saturday night, too late for distribution.  On one of these occasions, the "general delivery" was opened at the hour I was by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER L.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>PATRIOTIC PERSUASIVES TO BE A CHRISTIAN.</P>
109.sgm:<P>AT the corner of Sacramento and Liedsdorf streets, on Sunday, the thirteenth of July, 1856, I announced as my text, "Almost thou persuadest me to be a Christian."  The audience was large and orderly.  I gave a very brief history of St. Paul's imprisonment and trials: "Arrested by a Jewish mob in the temple; rescued by Colonel Lysias, with a troop of Roman soldiers from the Castle of Antonia; arraigned before the Sanhedrim, where they would have given him `law and order' to the death, but for the timely interposition of Colonel Lysias, who afterward sent him under an escort of four hundred and seventy soldiers, infantry and cavalry, to C&aelig;sarea, the seat of Roman authority in Palestine, to be tried before Judge Felix.  The prosecution was conducted by the Hon. Tertullus.  St. Paul, who had been educated at the feet of Gamaliel, a doctor of laws, and afterward graduated in the school of Christ, was lawyer enough to plead his own defense; and he did it in a masterly manner, refuting most conclusively the threefold charge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:of sedition, profanation of the Temple, and heresy.  And if his honor, Judge Felix, had been an honest judge, he would have discharged the prisoner at once, by an honorable acquittal; but for reasons, which even that long-cued Chinaman could detect, he kept him in prison two years, and then delivered him over to his successor in office, Judge Festus.  First, he wanted to please the Jews, by whom his vanity was flattered; and, secondly, he wanted St. Paul to pay him money.  A Chinaman, up country, when a fellow-Chinaman was arrested for a murder, was asked what he thought would be the fate of the prisoner.  `O!' said he, `he get free; he no hang.  He just same as one Melican (American) man.  <HI REND="italics">He got money</HI>
109.sgm:.'  If St. Paul had been the same as `one Melican man,' he could have been liberated immediately; for the judge, like some Californian judges I have heard of, had his price, and was in the market waiting for a bid.  But St. Paul, a poor, despised missionary of the cross of Jesus, had no money; for all the extra change he had received on his circuit the year preceding, he had just given away to the `poor saints at Jerusalem.'  But if his friends had furnished the money, Paul disdained to pay a premium on the cupidity and corruption of the judge, or accept of liberty on such conditions.  From Judge Festus he received the same kind of treatment; and after he had taken an appeal to the Supreme Court <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"St. Paul, in chains, preached to the assembled audience, and especially to the illustrious quaternion, King Agrippa, and his vile sister Bernice, and her sister, Mrs. Festus, and the honorable judge himself.  Paul's arguments were unanswerable, and such was the persuasive power of his eloquence that King Agrippa interrupted the preacher by crying out, `Almost thou persuadest me to be a Christian.'  Agrippa was not almost a Christian, but almost persuaded to be a Christian.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"In the further discussion of the subject, I will consider:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I.  What is a Christian?</P>
109.sgm:<P>"II.  What are the persuasives to influence the will to accept of Christ, to become a Christian?</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"To suit our present purpose, we will present the persuasives under two heads: 1.  Patriotic Persuasives.  2.  Persuasives purely Spiritual, such as were employed directly by St. Paul.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"We will here note a few points and illustrations, under the head of Patriotic Persuasives, as presented on Sacramento-street.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"You all profess to be patriots, do you not?  Yea, most of you profess to be reformers.  Your connection with the Vigilance Committee is for the avowed purpose of reformation.  Whatever, therefore, will most directly effect the desired end, should be matter of great interest to you.  The strength, prosperity, and permanence of a nation do not consist in her navies and armies, nor her walled cities and fortifications, nor her colleges, academies, and public schools.  These are all necessary appliances of protection and developement, and <HI REND="italics">evidences</HI>
109.sgm: of a nation's strength, but not the <HI REND="italics">basis</HI>
109.sgm:, nor <HI REND="italics">source</HI>
109.sgm:, nor <HI REND="italics">primary conditions</HI>
109.sgm:.  `Righteousness exalteth a nation, but sin is a reproach to any people.'  What is the cause of all the evils so much complained of in this city?  What is this rum-selling, and drunken debauchery, and gambling, and theft, and bloodshed, and corruption in office, and ballot-box stuffing, but the development of <HI REND="italics">sin</HI>
109.sgm: in the <HI REND="italics">hearts</HI>
109.sgm:, and its corresponding manifestation in the <HI REND="italics">lives</HI>
109.sgm: of those various characters?  All our degradation and imbecility, individually and collectively, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:proceed from the same source.  It is the opposite of all this, righteousness, experimental godliness alone, that will purify and exalt society.  This is the great conservative bond that constitutes the strength and integrity of any nation.  The connection between the cause and effect, maintained by this proposition, is not seen by superficial observers, but you have an illustration of it in the declaration of God in regard to Sodom: `I will spare the city for ten's sake.'  This is the salt that preserves society from utter moral putrefaction.  The health of a people consists of the health of the <HI REND="italics">individual</HI>
109.sgm: members composing society.  If, therefore, we sincerely desire to see a reformation in this city, and to see society elevated and established on a permanent moral basis, we must earnestly apply ourselves to the work of <HI REND="italics">personal</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"Now, how far do the avowed purposes of the Vigilance Committee go to effect this?  I believe that all they propose to do, besides the moral effect of an expression of the popular voice against certain sins, which, to be sure, is very important, is `to clean the Augean stable.'  I am not very familiar with that stable, but it doubtless needs cleaning, and we wish them good success in the dirty job they have undertaken, and that all the moral nuisances of the city will be cleared out.  But how far will that go, however necessary, as a preparative toward purifying and elevating society?  That is but removing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:`rubbish.'  Nehemiah's men had to clear away `the rubbish;' but had they stopped there, the walls never would have gone up.  As the rubbish is cleared, we must lay the foundations of the temple of truth on these shores, deep and broad, and then go up with the walls, and, trusting in God, `the mountain' that now obstructs `will become a plain,' and the temple, built up of `living stones,' shall be completed, and our Divine `Zerubbabel shall bring forth the head-stone thereof with shoutings, crying, Grace, grace unto it.'  But how are we to proceed in this work?  We have a good model in the great reformation of ancient Nineveh, under the preaching of Jonah: `The people of Nineveh <HI REND="italics">believed</HI>
109.sgm: God, and proclaimed a <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
109.sgm:, and put on <HI REND="italics">sackcloth</HI>
109.sgm:, from the <HI REND="italics">greatest</HI>
109.sgm: of them even to the <HI REND="italics">least</HI>
109.sgm: of them.'  What a worthy example the old king set for his people!  The influence of high officers of state is immense, for good or for evil.  `The wicked walk on every side, when the vilest men are exalted.'  How true to the experience of California!  The king proclaimed a fast, not as some hypocritical governors we have heard of, who, after proclaiming a solemn fast for the people, spend the day in debauchery.  `The king arose from his throne, and he laid his robe from him, and covered him with sackcloth, and sat in ashes.'  The people imitated his example, and they all `cried mightily unto God, and <HI REND="italics">turned every one from his evil way</HI>
109.sgm:."  That <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Now, you who have families here, when you go home to-night say to your companion, `My dear wife, God has intrusted us with these infant germs of immortality, and their weal or woe, for time and eternity, depends mainly upon the training we give them.  We have not done our duty toward the souls of our children, our own souls, nor the souls of our neighbors.  Now let us read a lesson in the Bible to-night, and try to pray with our children.'  `O, but,' says one, `I don't feel like it, and it would be mockery to attempt it.'  Make an honest effort upon the decisions of your judgment, with or without feeling; the feeling will come in due time.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Old Brother Gott, a good man, who has stood the fire in California like a Shadrach, said: `When I was married and brought my young wife home, she, immediately after supper, set out the family Bible, and requested me to read a lesson and pray.  I had never prayed in my life, and I was in a terrible strait.  I knew not what to do.  I thought it would not do to say <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
109.sgm: to my new wife, so I read, and kneeled down, and tried to pray.  I stammered and choked, and made a miserable fist of it; but when she found that I had fairly stalled, she took hold and helped me out.  I found that she could pray very well.  The next morning I tried it again.  Three weeks from that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"And you `ranchers,' (equivalent to members of a bachelor's hall,) who have no families, speak to your companions before you go to bed to-night about this matter.  Say to them, `Boys, we go in for reform.  We belong to the Vigilance.  Now let us commence to-night and have prayers in the "ranch," and try and reform ourselves.'  Don't make a mockery of it, as did a simple-hearted old German, who, having a number of strange guests at his table, said to the one next to him, `Friend, say grace.'  The friend requested the one next to him to say it, and so it passed round till it came back to the old German, and he said: `Vell, ve can do mitout dis time.'  You make the proposition, and then lead the way yourself.  The Lord help you.  Your eternal happiness or woe may hang upon your action to-night.  Will you do it?  `O, but,' says one, `the boys will laugh at me, and perhaps kick me out of the "ranch."'  Men, if rightly approached, are much more considerate and respectful than they get credit for.  You cannot know how they will receive such a proposition till you try them.  I have no doubt that they will at least behave as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Hungry, wet, cold, and belated, one stormy night, on a trip across the mountains from Santa Cruz to San Jose&acute; Valley, in the winter of 1849, I put up, at a late hour, at an `old adobe,' which they called a hotel, in Santa Clara.  I was conducted into the bar-room, where a jolly set of gamblers were at their cards.  After I had taken supper and seated myself by the fire, they got through with their games and profane jokes, and took seats round the fire to look at and listen to the unknown stranger.  I gave them an account of things in San Francisco, and especially of the condition of the sick in the City Hospital, which, as some of you remember, was but little more than a charnel-house in those days.  Most of those who went there were carried out feet foremost.  [`True, true,' said different ones in the audience.]  Well, when the proposition was made to retire to bed, I remarked, `Gentlemen, if there are no objections, we will unite in prayer together before we retire.  Let us get down, as some of us used to do when we were little boys with the old folks at home.'  They stared at me for a moment in astonishment.  The bar-keeper, who was standing behind the bar waiting for a chance to sell to each one another ` <HI REND="italics">nip</HI>
109.sgm: ' at two bits apiece, said: `I suppose there are no objections.'  So down they got, the last gambler of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"They then slipped off to bed, as mute as mice.  Did they feel like laughing or kicking me out?  No, sirs.  I met one of them the next day in the town of San Jose&acute;, and he took off his hat before he got within a rod of me.  Men will respect you for doing your duty, and whether they respect you or not, <HI REND="italics">do your duty</HI>
109.sgm:.  Go home to-night, and try it, and leave the result with God.  And you all, each one of you, no matter where you live, or what your relation in life, `Go into your closet,' or some secret place, to-night, and pray to God, in the name of Jesus Christ, for the pardon of your sins.  O, how they have multiplied since you came to California.  Would you not like to feel, my friend, that every sin you have ever committed since you were like this little boy, (pointing to a little fellow,) is freely forgiven for the sake of Jesus Christ?  Then ask, that you may receive; humble yourself before God, as did the Ninevites; renounce all your sins, outward sins and inward sins, sins of the life and sins of the heart; get an eternal divorce from them all.  Will you do it?  Will you?  `I have not feeling enough to begin,' says one.  Poor fellow, I am sorry for you; your day of grace is almost gone.  But try to pray, pray now, pray ever.  Pray with the importunity with which M'Donald, the editor of the Sierra Citizen, said he would pray <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:under certain circumstances.  Speaking of certain notoriously corrupt officials, said he, `If I had taken an <HI REND="italics">oath</HI>
109.sgm: to support those men, I would hasten away to the highest summit of the Sierra Nevada mountains, where I would be nearest to the ear of the Almighty, and I would there kneel down, and pray to him to forgive the hell-engendered oath, and if he would not do it, I would <HI REND="italics">remain</HI>
109.sgm: on my knees till the winds should whistle through my fleshless carcass.'  That is the determination we want you to have, only in the spirit of Jacob, the wrestler, rather than M'Donald, the editor.  But you need not go to the summit of the Sierra Nevada.  Jesus Christ is here in the street to-day.  He is bending in sympathy over your guilty, blood-bought spirits, <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"In conclusion, we would give you the advice that a fellow-student of mine from my native place, Rockbridge County, Virginia, gave on one occasion.  Said he, at the close of a sermon, `My unconverted neighbors, I want each of you to pray twice a day in secret, for two weeks, the time of my next appointment here, and then come and tell me the result.'  When he returned, a man by the name of Steel, whom we knew well, ran and met him, and told him that he had taken his advice, and though he had no feeling, and could not pray when he first tried, he kept at it, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Go, each one of you, and try sincerely for yourself.  Were I to tell you how to make a thousand dollars, you would jump at the opportunity.  Religion will be worth more to you than all the gold of California, and to obtain and exemplify it is the only way you can promote a genuine reform in society.  Would to God that all that hear me this day, were not only almost, (as you are,) but altogether such as the Apostle Paul."</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LI.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>A "LEGION" OF CALIFORNIA DEVILS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE following expose&acute; of California devils was made on the corner of Sacramento and Liedsdorf streets, in two discourses.  The first on Sunday afternoon, the tenth of August, 1856, the second, on the Sunday afternoon following.  The congregation in each instance numbered about one thousand hearers.  On the second occasion I was honored with the presence of our good Bishop Scott.  The text was selected from Mark v, 6--9: "But when he saw Jesus afar off, he ran and worshiped him, and cried with a loud voice, and said, What have I to do with thee, Jesus, thou Son of the most high God?  I adjure thee, by God, that thou torment me not.  For he said unto him, Come out of the man, thou unclean spirit.  And he asked him, What is thy name?  And he answered, saying, My name is Legion; for we are many."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"What a variety of devils were contained in the <HI REND="italics">legion</HI>
109.sgm: which possessed the demoniac of Gadara.  Every unrenewed heart is the receptacle of `unclean spirits,' to which they have ingress and egress at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"I.  The department of Covetousness.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"II.  Of Worldly Position and Renown.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"III.  Of Politics.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"IV.  Of Matrimony.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"V.  Of Connubial Infidelity.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"VI.  Of Libertinism.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"VII.  Department of Slander.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"VIII.  The Children's Department.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"And many others, too numerous to mention.  We will briefly illustrate the operations of Satan's high officers of state, filling the different departments above enumerated.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"The chief of the <HI REND="italics">Department of Covetousness</HI>
109.sgm: has a splendid `bazar,' more magnificent than the `Crystal Palace,' in which is the most gorgeous display of the wealth and splendor of the world.  The entrance to this grand palace is free, the doors are always open, and a world of old men, and maidens, and little children crowd in, to see and contemplate the <HI REND="italics">glory of riches</HI>
109.sgm:.  They are charged nothing for the sight, but every possible inducement is held out to all to buy a <HI REND="italics">chance</HI>
109.sgm: in the great lottery wheel of fortune.  The walls of this great mart are hung with beautiful paintings, and on every pillar various mottoes are presented in large letters, emblazoned in gold; such as, `Wealth, the key which unlocks every avenue of pleasure.'  `To be rich is to be honored.'  `'Tis money makes the mare go.'  `Money is the lever that moves, at once, both Church and State.'  In one place is seen a large likeness of an old man delivering a charge to his departing son, as he embarks on the voyage of business life, with this sentence dropping from his lips, `My son, make money, <HI REND="italics">honestly</HI>
109.sgm: if you can, <HI REND="italics">but make money</HI>
109.sgm:.'  In the meantime, the mammon devil is proposing, and making all kinds of bargains with all classes of society in the sale of tickets for the `great wheel.'  Some awful trades are there made.  Old men bartering away their honor, and all their hopes of heaven, for one `chance,' just as their sun of life is setting.  Honest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"I saw there a temperance man who had been so strict, up to the age of forty years, that he would not allow his wagon to stop in front of a grog-shop.  When he came to California, he made a bargain in this mart, the precise terms of which we can only judge of by his subsequent conduct.  He opened a restaurant on Clay-street, near Dupont-street, and became a `gentleman of the <HI REND="italics">bar</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"A man who had been a minister in the East, seemed to have made a sort of conditional bargain, for he opened a store in the southern mines on temperance principles, and would sell nothing on the Sabbath.  But after a while he left his <HI REND="italics">back</HI>
109.sgm: door ajar, so that particular friends from a distance, who could not readily come during the week, might be accommodated with a pair of boots or a week's provisions.  This <HI REND="italics">paid so well</HI>
109.sgm:, that a few subordinate devils, from the `grand lottery wheel,' easily prevailed on him to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:leave his <HI REND="italics">front</HI>
109.sgm: door ajar.  They argued that as far as the wrong in the case was concerned, it was in <HI REND="italics">principle</HI>
109.sgm: no worse than to keep the back door ajar, and that he could close, or conceal his design when he should see any squeamish Sabbath observers about.  That paid still better.  Every turn of the `great wheel' brought him a prize.  He was really `in luck.'  He was soon after waited on by another diabolical committee from head quarters, who said to him in effect: `Now if you will throw open your doors, you will very soon make your "pile."  You have given up the principle already, and it is mean to be hypocritical about it.  A man ought to be consistent, and if the old fogies, preachers, and croakers come about you, just say: "O, this is California."'  So open went the doors.  The next proposition was to introduce a bar into the store.  He really did not like to do that, but his alliance and traffic with this high department of state were so profitable, that he <HI REND="italics">feared</HI>
109.sgm: to say <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
109.sgm:, and for the sake of additional prizes, secretly <HI REND="italics">desired</HI>
109.sgm: to say <HI REND="italics">yes</HI>
109.sgm:.  So in went the bar, with the specific understanding, however, that should he be enriched within a few months, he would close up the whole concern, go home, put on his religious cloak, and do good with his money.  The principle underlying this last transaction was, `The end justifies the means.'  His prizes became so numerous and rich, that he had to employ <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"But the most heart-sickening sight in this grand palace of Prince Diabolus, the scene over which the angels weep, is to see Columbia's fair daughters, with hearts beating with gleeful emotion and joyous hope, cheeks covered with innocent blushes, as they for the first time meet the gaze of the crowded `bazar.'  Now they look at the pictures, and now at the mottoes, and now watch the evolutions of the great wheel, and see the brilliant prizes and the happy winners, as they bear them away.  These lovely girls, unacquainted with the dangers surrounding them, and having, it may be, no faithful counselors, are enchanted.  And now, certain things, claiming to be men, with all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"The palace of Mammon, to which we have introduced you, is the most extensive of any of the departments of state under Prince Diabolus.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The department of worldly position and renown</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"The prince of <HI REND="italics">political devils</HI>
109.sgm: is a very important personage in California.  No college in the universe can bestow as many degrees and titles as he, and he pledges his honor to the world that he will `dub' no man with a title, and will nominate no man for office, who has not proved himself a <HI REND="italics">true man</HI>
109.sgm:, who would almost lay down his life to subserve the interests of the <HI REND="italics">dear people</HI>
109.sgm:, if they will vote him into office, and accept of him as their most humble servant.  The walls of his grand forum are hung with landscape <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:and rural paintings, representing the highest state of national prosperity; and also a great variety of mottoes, in large letters of gold, such as ` <HI REND="italics">Vox populi, vox Dei</HI>
109.sgm:,' etc.  In the rear of the forum is a `bar,' where the very best liquors in the world, of every variety, are displayed, and offered free as air.  A free lunch given into the bargain.  In a back room adjoining, all primary elections are held.  Some of the tallest feats old Lucifer ever accomplished are enacted in this very back room.  In an open hall, contiguous to this room, is a trap-door, through which men had been seen to descend in the dusk of the evening, but it was never known, by the <HI REND="italics">dear people</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"As true Californians we must acknowledge our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:obligation to him for most of the illustrious line of officers who have held official position in our new state.  We do not pretend to insinuate that we have not had, and have not now, many honest and excellent men in office.  Such an insinuation would reflect on the wisdom of our political devil.  He always wants a small minority of the best of men to grace his administration.  The Yankee Sullivan fraternity have well-nigh defeated him in this regard, and have brought his management of affairs into such disrepute that he is by no means sorry that the Vigilance Committee have taken them in hand.  They had been so true to his interest in general, that he did not like to dismiss them; moreover, he feared that they might resent it by an exposure of his secret counsels.  I think his Satanic majesty is about ready for a transformation, and the introduction of a different form of administration in California, utterly repudiating the old, and denying that he ever had an identity with it.  When inquiry is made for him under his old cognomen, he will be like the old colored `Gumbo, of Virginia.'  It is said of him, when the cholera first visited that part of the country, it raged principally among the whites, and Gumbo said: `De angel ob de Lord take care of de colored people.'  By and by it broke out among the colored people, and some wicked fellows went one night to Gumbo's cabin, and seeing him sitting alone by his lamp, they knocked at his door.  `Who dar?'  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Do not imagine, my friends, that we would underrate or trifle with the elective franchise of a free people; but we would have the American people dissolve all alliance with demagogues and devils.  We would have them acknowledge and fulfill their obligations to God, the author of all our blessings, for the rich inheritance he has given us in <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>`The land of the free and the home of the brave;'</HI>
109.sgm:<P>and for the glorious institutions secured to us by his providence, through the struggles and blood of our fathers.  We would have them substitute an enlightened democracy for a licentious rum-ocracy.  We would have them shut up every synagogue of Satan, and everywhere repair the altars of God, which have been thrown down, as did Elijah in the days of Ahab and his miserable old wife Jezebel.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"We want to see an altar of prayer in the habitation of every American family, and to see all, from the gray-headed granddaddy down to the little rosy cheeks on which the blush of guilty shame never sat, bow down together, at every rising and setting of the sun, in the sincere worship of the true God.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"In regard to the <HI REND="italics">matrimonial devil</HI>
109.sgm:, we will only stop to say that he has made very many hasty, ill-advised matches in California, which have resulted in a great deal of domestic strife and scandal, and furnished employment for lawyers in the prosecution of divorce suits.  One night, in the winter of 1849, two parties came to my house to be united in marriage.  I questioned them closely, and everything seemed to be right.  After uniting one pair of them, as I requested the second party to present themselves, the groom arose, but the lady kept her seat.  Said she, `I have concluded not to get married tonight.'  So they all left.  About an hour later the same lady returned with another man, accompanied by several witnesses, and asked to be united in marriage.  I objected, and told them they were too hasty, and that a matter of so grave importance should be well considered.  But they declared that they had known each other a year, and had been engaged for a `long time,' and that the lady's coming with the other fellow to get married was a coquettish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"I united a couple in 1853, and they were a very interesting looking party, and before three days had elapsed they came back to see if I could not untie `the knot.'  At another time I married a couple that seemed to be above suspicion, and a more beautiful pair I seldom ever witnessed.  The man took his bride home, and there he met with a fellow, who, professing to have superior claims to the lady, gave the bridegroom a terrible beating, and took charge of the bride.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Again, when called to a wedding, I suspected, from some whispering in an adjoining room, that all was not right with the lady candidate for matrimony.  So I said to her, `Have you ever been married, madam?'  `Yes, sir,' was the reply.  `Is your husband dead?'  `No, sir,' said she.  `What has become of him?'  `He is in the city, sir.'  `Have you been legally divorced?'  `Yes, sir,' said she.  `I must have good evidence of that fact before I can proceed,' said I.  The evidence was produced, and they were married.  A few months afterward the same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"These are a few specimens of the exquisite workmanship of the devil of matrimony.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"We next invite attention to the operations of the devil of <HI REND="italics">connubial infidelity</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"We will not tax your patience to listen to a full <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:expose&acute; of the delicate yet deadly operations of this incontinent devil; but we will exhibit details sufficient to put you on your guard against him.  He tries to gain an influence over the most of men who come to California without their families.  We would not insinuate that he succeeds with all, for many will have nothing to do with him; but his success has been truly extraordinary and alarming, especially with those who have been very successful in business, and have plenty of money and time at their disposal; also with very many who have been unsuccessful, and have been detained beyond the set time to return to their families.  If he can lead men into bad company, familiarize them with debauchery, and fill them with rum, they fall an easy prey to his diabolical designs.  He gives special attention to wives, more particularly to beautiful and young wives, en route for California, to join their absent husbands.  He employs a great variety of means for their ruin; wine, flattery, and bribes, in the form of splendid presents.  In this work of desolation and death he enlists government officers, officers, of ships, and gallant gentlemen passengers, as may best suit his purpose.  A great many ladies, too, not the lowest classes either, but wives of all classes, when they start for California, are persuaded, by some of the many means employed to that end, that when they get to these golden shores they will enter into the immediate possession of a fortune, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:revel in affluence, and move in the most respectable circles of `high life.'  After bidding adieu to friends on the other shore, they said, `Good-by to poverty, and toil, and care; I'm going to the land of gold.'  Many such arrived just in time to hear of the fortunes their husbands had lost, and of those they came very near making, and of those they yet expect to make, if they have `good luck.'  The poor wife, instead of stepping into a mansion all furnished, is conducted by her overjoyed husband to a small upper room, or rented house, in the city, or to a log-cabin `on the plains,' or to a shanty in some `gulch' in the mountains.  Everything is different from what she expected.  She has to go to work with her hands, a thing she never intended to do again, and that, too, under great disadvantages, in the absence of the facilities she has left behind.  She has nothing to supply the loss of all the pleasant home associations from which she has torn herself, except the company of her husband, and he is absent most of his time at work or attending to outside business.  She now realizes the wonderful disparity between the visionary ideal and the reality of California life, and feels that in some way her husband is to blame for her unhappy surroundings.  She becomes dispirited and petulant, and her husband, not appreciating the great change in her circumstances, and laying to heart some of her fretful sayings, is not sufficiently patient and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Now the smooth, graceful, honorable Mr. Mustachio, dropping in occasionally to spend an evening, as the special friend of the family, manifests a great deal of sympathy for the poor woman.  He thinks it a pity that a lady of so rare excellence should be reduced to such drudgery, and to cheer her up he presents her with a few `gold specimens,' and some articles of jewelry it may be.  Then he thinks that, with the consent of the husband, an occasional `carriage or buggy ride' would be very serviceable to her health; and, as the husband has neither time nor money to spare, and as the <HI REND="italics">honorable</HI>
109.sgm: gentleman has plenty of both, his services, so <HI REND="italics">disinterestedly</HI>
109.sgm: proffered, are very cordially and thankfully accepted.  All that is necessary now to restore the good lady to cheerfulness of spirit and a happy reunion of feeling with her husband, is to accompany this generous friend of the family to a few <HI REND="italics">balls</HI>
109.sgm:, and a round or two at the <HI REND="italics">theaters</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>"One or two cases from real life may suffice our present purpose.  Mr. A. and Mr. B. (I have their real names, but need not give them) bought and improved a `rancho' in co-partnership in the Sacramento Valley.  A., who had a wife `at home,' was an honest, hard-working man.  B., a single man, was a shrewd young lawyer, and had been a California legislator.  He managed to do the trading and `outside business,' while A. did the hard work on the farm.  He managed, also, to get all the profits, and, finally, the title to all the land, and kept the old man poor.  He persuaded A. to send for his wife; thought she would be very useful in the `diary,' and also save them much expense for washing bills, and could do their cooking.  She came, a fine-looking lady, expecting to settle down with her dear husband in the enjoyment of an easy fortune, on their plantation in the Sacramento Valley.  But she soon found, to her great disappointment, that Mr. B., and not Mr. A., was the man of means.  She could not work, and must be a lady of leisure, at all hazards.  Her husband, though affectionate and kind, was nothing but a poor, honest, hard-working farmer.  Mr. B. was a <HI REND="italics">gentleman</HI>
109.sgm:, an honorable legislator, popular, young, and good-looking; and, withal, was much more attentive to her than her husband had time to be.  He took her in his buggy, and showed her the beauties of the landscape.  In a short time they united in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"I saw a poor man dying, up country, a year ago, and inquired the cause.  Well, he had had an accomplished wife, the landlady of his hotel, and she was a doctoress.  His excellent lady took a notion to visit her friends in the East; and at the same time to buy a stock of drugs, and then return to California, and give all her attention to the practice of medicine.  To accomplish all this, it was necessary for her to have a certain amount of money, to raise which her kind husband mortgaged his hotel, and everything he had, to their full value, and gave her a splendid outfit.  When she bade him adieu, her heart seemed almost to be breaking; and she concealed her face in her handkerchief to hide the tears she <HI REND="italics">did not shed</HI>
109.sgm:.  A <HI REND="italics">gallant young gentleman</HI>
109.sgm:, a particular <HI REND="italics">friend</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>"Again, on the other hand, very many respectable ladies come here to join their husbands, and find them corrupt and degraded.  And, while many unfortunate, yet true and faithful husbands, here, have been cruelly slandered at home, there are many abandoned wretches here, who have long since thrown themselves away; and while living in the deepest degradation and infamy, are keeping up hypocritical professions and promises to their families at home, whom they intend never to see, if they can help it.  How often have the wives of such come to California, and wandered in desolation a thousand-fold more dreadful than the widow's weeds, through our streets, and valleys, and mountains, inquiring for their husbands.  I need not multiply illustrations; you who have been long in California, can supply from the records of your own memory scores of cases.  Now, for the accomplishment of all this dreadful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"We will invite your attention to a few potent appliances used by Satan to produce this sad result.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">First</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Second</HI>
109.sgm:.  The spiritual union doctrine of Andrew Jackson Davis, the sum of which is, the only legitimate and valid matrimonial bond is a spiritual bond ordained by the Creator, from the beginning, or from the birth of each pair, and that the evidences of this union are entire oneness of thought, and feeling, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:sympathy, and purpose, and action.  But hear what the `great apostle of modern spiritualism' says on the subject.  `True marriages are natural, inevitable, harmonious, and eternal!  By the assistance of interior perception and comprehension, I was enabled to ascertain the glorious and consoling truth, that every spirit is born married!  When I gaze upon an infant, a youth, a lonely individual, the voice of intuition and true philosophy says, "That infant, that youth, that lonely individual, has somewhere an eternal companion."  Therefore, I perceive and understand that a meeting, and in the present state of society, a legal recognition, of such companions is an outward expression of true marriage.  And yet no ceremony, no promise, no written or legalized agreement, can <HI REND="italics">unite</HI>
109.sgm: that which is <HI REND="italics">internally</HI>
109.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">eternally</HI>
109.sgm: joined; nor can these solemnities <HI REND="italics">unite</HI>
109.sgm: that which is <HI REND="italics">internally</HI>
109.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">eternally</HI>
109.sgm: separated.'  `The best evidence that two individuals are not naturally and eternally married is, that by dwelling together they generate discord, discontent, disrespect, and unhappiness.'-- <HI REND="italics">Great Harmonia</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"It is very easy for all newly-married parties to believe that their union is `natural, inevitable, harmonious, and eternal,' and therefore valid.  But how easy for a man or woman, under the influence of this fallacy, to come to the conclusion, in the moment of any one of the ten thousand petty annoyances in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Third</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Fourth</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"We would respectfully submit a few corrective suggestions.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">First</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Second</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Third</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Fourth</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Fifth</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Sixth</HI>
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109.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`How painfully pleasing the fond recollection<LB>Of youthful connections and innocent joy,<LB>When bless'd with parental advice and affection,<LB>Surrounded with mercy and peace from on high,<LB>I still view the chairs of my father and mother,<LB>The seats of their offspring as ranged on each hand,<LB>And that richest of books, which excels every other,<LB>The family Bible, that lay on the stand.<LB>The old-fashioned Bible, the dear blessed Bible,<LB>The family Bible, that lay on the stand,' etc.</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"The Prince Diabolos of libertinism is a very extraordinary spirit, extensively patronized in California.  A young man who came to his altars, was required to bring a sacrifice.  He was a beautiful youth, in the bloom of health, having a sound physical constitution, a brilliant intellect, a good collegiate education, a competent fortune, honorable parentage, lovely virgin sisters, who almost idolized him, a respectable circle of friends, a bright future of personal opulence and honor, to say nothing of usefulness in the world, and a happy eternity beyond.  Well, what will you think, when I tell you that the tyrannical demon required him to bring all the interest he had in all these?  You will think that he ought to have fled away as from the `deadly upas.'  But, sirs, he immediately commenced to prepare his offering, health, wealth, his interest in parents and friends, reputation, prospects of future weal, conscience; his interest in the atonement of Jesus, and all his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Of the department of slander</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The children's department</HI>
109.sgm: is managed with the most consummate skill.  If a contract could be made with his Satanic majesty, by which we could convey to him, by a bill of sale, all California sinners over forty-five years of age, in exchange for all the children under fifteen, it would be a most advantageous arrangement for the Church and the world.  But Satan will make no such bargains.  He feels that he is sure of you, old sinners.  He has already foreclosed a mortgage on the most of your souls.  The `time for redemption' has nearly expired.  He has you safe enough, and is determined to have the children too, for which end he employs extraordinary and various means, too numerous to mention.  He provides amply <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Now, in conclusion, allow me to inquire, `What are you going to do about this diabolical business?'  The facts we have educed, substantially, you cannot deny, and they suggest legions of kindred facts to your minds, equally dark and damning.  However we may differ in regard to the theories by which to account for these facts, we all agree as to the facts themselves, and that they ought to be remedied.  Some of you have denied the <HI REND="italics">existence of devils</HI>
109.sgm:, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:others of you have repudiated the doctrine of <HI REND="italics">human depravity</HI>
109.sgm:; but I ask you, How do you explain these extraordinary phenomena, the actual developments of sin, the truth of which you all admit?  If you deny the existence of devils, then you have to set down all these deeds of darkness to the account of human depravity, and you thereby make man nothing more nor less than an incarnate devil.  If you repudiate human depravity, and set down all these iniquitous developments to the account of Satan, then the question arises, How is it that men, purely innocent, should be so completely under the dominion of the `wicked one?  The only rational theory is that revealed in the Bible, which asserts the existence of devils and their commerce with men, and asserts as well the deep depravity of the human heart.  You cannot account for the dreadful developments of sin in your own hearts, and its manifestations all around us, on any other theory.  Now, where shall we find a remedy?  The only physician who can effect a cure, is He to whom the demoniac of Gadara applied.  Many of you have tried other means, but you have got worse and worse.  His terms are, that you come to him, without price, submit your case, and trust him for a cure.  See the man from the tombs; he is coming to Jesus.  See him run and fall down at his feet, worshiping him, and exclaiming, `O, Master, for pity sake, save me from these tormentors!'  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:He is a sincere penitent, depend upon it.  What is that he is saying?  `What have I to do with thee, Jesus, thou Son of the most high God?  I adjure thee, by God, that thou torment me not.'  That is your sincere penitent, is it?  `He is drunk, or crazy, or else he wants to turn the whole thing into ridicule.'  Nay, that is the devil that is speaking through the vocal organs of the poor sinner.  The man is a sincere penitent, nevertheless.  His case exhibits outwardly the secret struggle you feel in your heart to-day.  The Spirit of God is working on his conscience.  Under its influence he runs to Jesus, and sues for mercy.  The devil is also at work with him.  Under his influence he cries, `What have I to do with thee, Jesus, thou Son of the most high God?  Depart from me.'  Have you not felt this war of the spirits a thousand times?  Do you not now feel that you ought to come to Christ?  And do you not feel a desire to become a sincere Christian?  The Spirit of God is now `working in you to will and to do his good pleasure.'  That is the <HI REND="italics">attraction</HI>
109.sgm: of grace that leads to God.  Do you not, also, feel an inward tide of carnal enmity, `not subject to the law of God,' manifesting itself to your consciousness in spiritual apathy, hardness of heart, insubordination to the will of God, and which says to Jesus, `What have I to do with thee?'  That is the <HI REND="italics">repulsive power</HI>
109.sgm: of diabolized human depravity.  Why will you not now come to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:Christ and be saved?  `O, my heart is too hard.'  There it is, sir; that is the very thing to be remedied, and Jesus Christ alone can remedy it.  If it be human depravity, you cannot <HI REND="italics">free</HI>
109.sgm: yourself from it, nor <HI REND="italics">subdue</HI>
109.sgm:, nor <HI REND="italics">improve</HI>
109.sgm: it.  You must submit it to the great Physician just as it is.  If it be the devil in possession of your heart, do you imagine that you can convert the devil, or free yourself from him, or get his consent to let you come to Christ, without a violent struggle?  You can do not one of these any more than you can vail with darkness the noonday sun.  If you are ever saved, you have to come to Jesus, as did the Gadarene.  Bring your depravity, just as it is.  Bring your devils, in spite of all their clamor and opposition, to the feet of Jesus.  He is here in Sacramento-street, this afternoon, as really as he was present to the poor man who had the `legion,' present in his spiritual nature, in his essential Divinity, in all the plenitude of his saving mercy, <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
109.sgm:.  He is very desirous to save you from your sins, and from Satan's power to-day.  Never say again, `I cannot go to Jesus, because I do not <HI REND="italics">feel like it</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"Allow me, for your encouragement, to give you a few illustrations of the <HI REND="italics">attraction</HI>
109.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">repulsion</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"John B. Youngs, a friend of mine in Baltimore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:City, went to the altar as a seeker of religion, because his judgment was enlightened, and he believed it to be his duty; but for a week, though he went forward every night, his heart was so hard, that, when any brother went to speak to him, he could hardly keep from <HI REND="italics">cursing</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"One Sunday night, in the fall of 1853, after preaching and prayer-meeting in `the Bethel,' a pale, sickly-looking young man attracted my attention.  Taking him by the hand, I said, `How are you, my friend? you appear to be unwell.'  `Yes,' replied he, `I am unwell, and am a very miserable man.  I have been to the hospital, and am just recovering from a spell of sickness.  I am hardly able to work, and have no employment if I were able.  I am out of money, and have not one friend in God Almighty's earth.'  I then passed round his hat among the brethren, and `made a raise' for him.  I then said to him, `Would you not, my friend, like to enjoy religion; to give your heart to God, obtain the pardon of all your sins, and become a good Christian?'  `I would, sir,' said he.  `There is nothing in this world I desire so much as religion.'  `Are you willing,' said I, `to kneel down here, and ask God, for the sake of Jesus Christ, to give you pardon?'  `No, sir,' said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:he, `not now.'  `Why not now?'  `I don't want to make a mock of the thing,' replied he.  `My heart is as hard as a stone, and feeling as I do, it would be hypocrisy for me to kneel down there.  I don't want to seek religion until I can feel more on the subject.  It will do me no good to say a prayer unless I feel it in my heart.'  `Have you been religiously trained in your boyhood?'  I inquired.  `Well, sir,' said he, `when I was a little boy my parents moved from New-Jersey to the wilderness of Indiana.  I was there brought up in isolation from all society.  I never had a friend.  I never saw but one man with whom I sympathized, and don't know that I ever saw one that ever sympathized with me.  My father was a professor of religion, but he did not pray in his family, nor do his duty.  I saw him die, and did not shed one tear, such was the hardness of my heart then, and I feel just so now toward all the world.  I heard you preach this morning, and you struck a tender chord in my heart, and I came back to-night, hoping to receive some benefit; but you didn't strike the right string to-night.  And those cold, hypocritical prayers; my God, they like to have killed me.  When that man was praying over there, I could hardly keep from telling him to hush.'  `Well, my friend,' said I, `you are in a bad condition, and the sooner you get your case into the hands of the great Physician, the better for you.  In the midst of all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:this carnal enmity you exhibit, I perceive, by the desires you express, and by the tears you are shedding, (for he was weeping through the whole conversation,) that God's Holy Spirit is operating on your heart, and it will be at the peril of your soul that you leave this house to-night without submitting to the claims of God upon you.  After all, it is your pride that prevents you from bowing as a penitent before God, in presence of these brethren.'  `That is a fact,' replied he; `I believe you are right.'  And down he kneeled, and went to praying with all the apparent earnestness of the poor `publican.'  There he wept and pleaded for mercy, under the <HI REND="italics">attractive</HI>
109.sgm: power of the good Spirit, for about thirty minutes, when suddenly, just as in the case of the Gadarene mourner, the wicked spirit got the ascendency, and the <HI REND="italics">repulsion</HI>
109.sgm: was so strong, that he at once ceased to pray, and said, `My God, I have heard enough of cold preaching and praying in my time, and have seen enough of hypocritical pretensions to damn the world.  I wonder that I am out of hell.  I don't believe I ever saw but one good Christian in all my life.  I sought his acquaintance, but he did not reciprocate my attentions, and I do not certainly know that he was a good man.  The Church is full of hypocrites.'  `Well, now, my good fellow,' said I, `the hypocrisy of the Church, and the sins of other men, are not the questions for you to discuss at this time.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Now, my dear sirs, if you would decide the issue of that war in your hearts, and save your souls, come to Christ <HI REND="italics">now, just as you are</HI>
109.sgm:.  Here is Captain M'Donald.  Many of you know that he was one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>A HARD CASE.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON Tuesday, the nineteenth of August, 1856, the second day after the above discourse was concluded on Sacramento-street, a very intelligent-looking man called at my house, and requested a private interview.  He was trembling with emotion, and seemed afraid to give utterance to what was evidently a great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Said he, "In your discourse on California devils you gave a number of cases of men who had been guilty of seduction and connubial infidelity, and, though you concealed their names, I know I must be one of the men you referred to.  You have doubtless heard of my case."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"No, sir," said I; "I never knew nor heard of you before."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Well," continued he, "mine is a dreadful case, as bad or worse than any you mentioned in your sermon."  He then paused, and groaned, and wept.  "I have never told a living man my situation, but my distress of mind was so great I thought I would come and see you.  I thought some of going to see Dr. Scott, but I concluded that, as you had been so long in California, you would know better how to treat my case than anybody else.  I walked for a quarter of an hour on the sidewalk in front of your house, questioning in my own mind whether to come in or not; but something seemed to say to me, `Go in; if you do not, you will certainly go to hell.'  So I came in, but no living mortal can tell what I suffer; and yet my sufferings are nothing to what I deserve."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Again he paused and wept.  Then resuming his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:story, he said: "Father Taylor, the confession I am about to make is of the most dreadful and humiliating character.  O that I could blot it out forever from the book of memory, and the book of God.  In the State of--I was a minister of the Gospel.  I then enjoyed religion, and tried to lead a holy life.  I was happy.  I left there a pious, good wife and two children, six years ago, and came to California.  I engaged in the practice of law, made money, lost my religion, and became an occasional gambler; I seduced a man's wife, and took her away.  The man afterward died.  I got tired writing lies to my wife at home, and ceased to write, and receiving no letters from her for a year, I concluded she was dead.  I then got married to the woman I had taken, and we have ever since lived together and passed for husband and wife.  I afterward learned that my wife at home was not dead, but was still living in the same place with her children.  I have three children by my present wife.  This thing has preyed upon my mind for years.  I have often talked to my wife here about it, and she has also suffered great distress on account of it.  She is a sensible woman, and wants to be a Christian.  In my distress I have resorted to the bottle for comfort, and have been getting worse and worse.  I was drinking last Saturday night in the very same house where Captain H. was drinking before he committed suicide; and I feel that I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Well, sir," I replied, "yours is a very bad case, but I trust not entirely a hopeless one.  I see some grounds of hope in the fact that God still preserves your life, and in the fact that you still believe the Bible, and that you suffer so much remorse of conscience for your wrong doing, and especially in the strong desire you have to repent of your sins and seek the pardoning mercy of God, and in the willingness you seem evidently to have to submit to any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"That I will do," said he, "most gladly, and conscientiously."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Your only hope," I continued, "in the meantime, is to submit your case unreservedly to God, and sue for pardon in the name of Jesus Christ, and trust to the wise Providence of God to open a way of escape.  God can do it, and he alone.  You need not wait to see the results of his providence in regard to your tangled relationships, before you can experience pardon, if your will is entirely subjugated to his will, so that you will heartily acquiesce in his decisions, whatever they may be.  A man of my acquaintance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:in the State of Virginia, by the name of Beck, invested more than all he was worth in a distillery.  Just at that time a camp-meeting was commenced in the neighborhood.  He attended the meeting, and the Holy Spirit called him to follow Christ.  He hesitated a few minutes, and said to himself: `If I seek religion I must give up my distillery.  If I give that up I will beggar my family.  If I do not seek religion I can make a good living for my family, but my soul must go to hell.'  He immediately presented himself at the altar, and said: `Lord, I'll trust my family in thy care, and seek the salvation of my soul.  O Lord, I have built a "still house," which I know I must give up before thou wilt pardon my sins, but I want the pardon of my sins to-night, for before to-morrow I may be dead.  O Lord, if thou wilt <HI REND="italics">trust</HI>
109.sgm: me, and, for the sake of Jesus Christ, forgive my sins to-night, I will go home to-morrow morning, if spared, and knock every tub to staves, throw out the still, and never make one drop of liquor.'  That very night he was redeemed from sin, and I heard him afterward say, in a class-room, after relating his experience, `God saw my sincerity, and converted my soul on <HI REND="italics">credit</HI>
109.sgm:.'  He kept his word with the Lord, to the letter.  He destroyed every `tub,' and converted the building into a mill.  I have often seen his still, for he never would sell it, lest it might be used for the purpose of making liquor, and affect his contract <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>The third time he called to see me, he was professedly, and, I believe, truly happy in God.  When he came again, he said:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I have written to my wife, and have told her all about my dreadful wickedness and wretchedness.  I told her that I had so betrayed her confidence and disgraced myself, that I was not worthy of her, and that if she desired to obtain a divorce, I would furnish her all necessary information and evidence; but that if, in view of all the facts in the case, she still preferred me as her husband, I would make provision for my family here and go home.  I have done this with the knowledge and consent of my woman here.  I leave the matter in the hands of God.  I am happy in the love of God, and I believe he will bring to pass that which is right under the circumstances, and I shall be most happy to submit to his will."</P>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>THE SEBASTOPOL OF "OLD NICK."</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE city of San Francisco may, with propriety, be regarded as the very Sebastopol of his Satanic majesty.  This city, it is true, can exhibit as many church edifices at a greater cost, than any other city of its age in the world.  The people of California are justly proverbial for their liberality in giving for charitable and religious purposes.  They also treat a man's religious opinions, professions, and efforts, with more respect, probably, than any other new country; and a minister of the Gospel can preach in the open streets of any city or town in California, day or night, without any fear of serious disturbance.  Everybody, to be sure, will not stop and listen, but nobody will stop to interfere with him.  But, with all these admissions in favor of California in general, and of San Francisco in particular, I believe, nevertheless, that it is, as yet, the hardest country in this world in which to get sinners converted to God.  It was a long time before even Christians would believe it possible to have anybody converted in California; and to this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>I note, 2.  The <HI REND="italics">isolated</HI>
109.sgm: condition of society.  In all old-settled communities, each member, however humble, is as a link in a chain of association, which runs through the whole community.  Cut one link, and it affects the whole chain.  But here the links <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:are nearly all separated, and where there is a connection it is generally by <HI REND="italics">open</HI>
109.sgm: links, which can be slipped at pleasure.  We see this illustrated on funeral occasions.  It is a very familiar sight here to see an unattended hearse moving toward the city of silence.  "Who is dead?"  "Colonel B.," says the driver.  Had the colonel died at home, he would have been followed by a funeral procession a mile long.  (The exceptions to this rule are the funerals of Free-masons, Odd Fellows, and other associations, which give due attetion to the burial of their dead.)  So in other countries; if you succeed in converting a sinner from the error of his way, you can at once avail yourself of his influence and relationships to society, by which you extend your conquests into the territory of the enemy.  Through him you reach his parents, his wife, and children, brothers, sisters, and intimate acquaintances; a score of souls saved instrumentally through that one medium.  But in California, through the Gospel "battery" may be as powerful as in any other country, still, for want of "conductors," it does not produce results corresponding with its power.  Social ties and relationships, and ties of blood, are very important "conductors" for Gospel "electricity."  In these we are deficient.  California differs, too, from all other <HI REND="italics">new</HI>
109.sgm: countries in this respect.  Our other Western States were settled up by a gradual emigration of families.  Every family was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>This young giant of the West (the State of California) is very much like the boy, who, at the age of five years, wore his daddy's boots, and whipped his mamma, and then took to the sea, where he has grown up without parental restraint or the refining influence of virtuous female society.  He has an extraordinary intellect, is a noble, generous-hearted fellow, but he thinks as he pleases, acts as he thinks, and does not feel that he needs instruction.</P>
109.sgm:<P>He is like Jeremiah's "wild ass, used to the wilderness, that snuffeth up the wind at his pleasure.  In his occasion who can turn him away?"  Or like Job's unicorn, of which he says, "Will the unicorn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:be willing to serve thee, or abide by thy crib?  Canst thou bind the unicorn with his band in the furrow?  Or will he harrow the valleys after thee?"  But if these figures are too unseemly, I should say that he is like Job's war-horse, whose "neck was clothed with thunder.  Canst thou make him afraid, as a grasshopper?  The glory of his nostrils is terrible He paweth in the valley, and rejoiceth in his strength: he goeth on to meet the armed men.  He mocketh at fear, and is not affrighted; neither turneth he back from the sword.  The quiver rattleth against him, the glittering spear, and the shield.  He swalloweth the ground with fierceness and rage: neither believeth he that it is the sound of the trumpet.  He saith among the trumpets, Ha! ha! and he smelleth the battle afar off, the thunder of the captains, and the shouting."  But we do not despair of our young giant.  He is becoming domesticated, and is beginning to attend Church regularly, and we expect to see him converted to God yet, and when converted he will be a "Saul among the prophets," head and shoulders above his neighbors.  There are other reasons why it is so difficult to cultivate Immanuel's land in California; but when I penned the caption of this article, it was with the design of introducing a single illustration, drawn from a sort of naval engagement I had, before the walls of his Satanic majesty's fortifications, a few years ago, the account <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">July</HI>
109.sgm: 5, 1852.--On the twenty-sixth of May last, I commenced a protracted meeting on the Bethel Ship, which has just closed.  At the commencement I had a hand-bill printed after this wise: `A meeting, to transact business for eternity, will be held on board the Bethel Ship, at the foot of Washington-street, commencing this evening at eight o'clock, and to be continued every evening for ten days.'  The bills were neatly printed, presenting a ship under full sail.  These were posted all through the city.  At the close of this term, I had another bill printed, after the same style, extending the time for thirty days more.  Thus we met, and preached, and sung, and prayed for forty nights.  The week-night congregations averaged from thirty to forty persons.  This may appear to be a very small attendance, yet these were the largest congregations I have ever seen in this city at any church through the week, unless on some extraordinary occasion, of a single night.  I have never been able to hold protracted meetings here with much success on that account.  The result of the meeting, so far as manifested, is the conversion of about ten souls, and a very gracious revival in the Church.  It strikes me now, more forcibly than ever before, that the diabolic enginery by which the thousands of this city are being whirled with fearful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>This country is a great rendezvous for the representatives of all nations, which, in connection with the fact of its proximity to the Islands of the Pacific and the teeming millions of Asia, constitutes it the greatest missionary field in the world.  What St. Peter saw in vision on the housetop of Simon, the tanner, we see now, in fact, here in California, with this difference, that when the "great sheet" was let down on these shores, it was not drawn up again, as when St. Peter saw it; but the attraction of our gold mountains produced such a commotion in the heterogeneous mass contained in it, that the sheet was rent from one end to the other, and out tumbled the whole concern, and every fellow of them grabbed a pick and shovel and went to digging, and here they are to-day.  Nor is one of them to be called "common or unclean," but all of them are embraced in the covenant of promise.  Every one of them is the purchase of the Saviour's blood, the object of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIII.</HEAD>
109.sgm:<P>TRIUMPHANT DEATH SCENES.</P>
109.sgm:<P>AN extract from my journal may furnish an idea of what poor patients in the City Hospital had to suffer in the year 1849, and early part of 1850.  The city paid five dollars per day for the care of each patient; but bedding, and provisions, and medicine, and nurse hire, were all enormously high; and the profits of the contracting physician would be great or small, in proportion to his outlay for those appliances of comfort for the sick.  The nurses too, in most cases, were exceedingly reckless.  The visiting committee of the city did not go in unceremoniously, at all hours, as I did, and hence saw less of how things were managed.  Many of the facilities of comfort now enjoyed in the hospitals here, however, could not then be obtained.  But to the extract:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Sunday, January</HI>
109.sgm: 13, 1850.--Visited the hospital to-day, (after class-meeting, at which more than fifty persons were present, and a glorious season we had.)  Two poor fellows whom I visited, and with whom I prayed yesterday evening, were in their coffins.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>S. SWITZER, OF ROXBURY.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Poor S. Switzer, from R., was dying.  He had been very penitent for some weeks, and professed to experience some peace, though not a clear evidence of pardon.  He did not think his end so nigh.  There was a peculiarly mournful, yet hopeful interest, attached to the case of Brother Switzer.  He has been sick several weeks.  Says he: `I lay for whole nights together without anything to wet my parched lips.  A mug of tea is set on the shelf, there, for me; but I am too weak to reach it.  Here I lie, in my own filth.  I have not been taken up, nor has my bed been cleaned for several days; but though separated from my family, and confined in this dreadful place, I am happy, my soul is happy in God.  I shall soon be released, and shall suffer no more.'  Tears of joyous hope ran down his sunken cheeks, as he discoursed on the glorious prospects of future blessedness <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Query: Why should a good man be reduced to such an extremity of destitution and suffering?  According to St. Paul, (Romans viii, 10,) though Christ be in us, implying all attainable goodness in this life, the body is nevertheless dead, legally dead, because of sin; still, under the unmitigated sentence, "Dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou return," this sentence is alike executed upon old men and babes, good men and bad.  As for the extreme sufferings of some more than others, there are, doubtless, disciplinary reasons in the Divine administration, to develop certain graces, and the better to prepare the believing soul for an "eternal weight of glory."  The rewards of vital piety are purely spiritual; and all, except the foretastes necessary for our encouragement and usefulness here, are to be revealed beyond the swelling flood of Death's dark river.  "But if the Spirit of him that raised up Jesus from the dead dwell in you, he that raised up Christ from the dead <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>The resurrection power of Jesus, through which the believing soul is, by the Spirit of God, raised from the death of sin here, will, by the same Spirit, be applied to every essential particle of our bodies, and thus redeem them from all the evil consequences attendant upon the fearful wreck of sin, under which they went down into corruption's deepest sea.  "Then shall be brought to pass the saying that is written, Death is swallowed up in victory."</P>
109.sgm:<P>ISAAC JONES AND HIS WIFE MARY.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN the summer of 1850, this estimable pair arrived at San Francisco, from the State of New-York; I believe from Buffalo.  They were natives of North Wales.  They moved into a little house next door to our little church on the hill; and presenting their letters, immediately identified themselves with the Church, the neglect of which has proved fatal to the spiritual life of many in this land.  Brother Jones was a local preacher, and by trade a printer.  He wrought here in the office of the "Evening Picayune."  He entered into a special agreement with the proprietor of that journal, that he should never be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"O well, never mind," said the proprietor.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A few weeks passed pleasantly over the God-fearing printer's head, when late one Saturday night his employer said to him again: "Now, Jones, it's no use talking; you see what a quantity of matter we have to set up for the next issue, and a great deal of it must go in type to-morrow.  It has to be done, and you may just as well help to do it as for the other boys to do it all.  The fact is, I won't have a man about me unless he is willing to work at all times whenever he is neeed."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Well," said Jones, "I shall be very sorry to lose my situation, for it is very expensive living here, and I am dependent on the dayly labor of my hands for the support of my family; but if my continuance in your office and my support depend upon my working <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>After bustling round among the type stands a while, the proprietor replied, "Well, Jones, you are a good workman and an honest fellow, and I don't want you to leave me."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Jones was never asked again to work on the Lord's day, and kept his place in that office while he lived, and verified in his experience these words of David: "Trust in the Lord and do good, so shalt thou dwell in the land, and verily thou shalt be fed.  He felt a great interest in the spiritual welfare of his countrymen in this city, and organized a Bible-class for their benefit.  On the third of November, 1850, he had an appointment to preach to them in his own house.  His friends assembled to hear him preach, and, to their utter dismay, found him struggling in the chilly grasp of death.</P>
109.sgm:<P>About ten o'clock the night preceding he was seized with the cholera, which did its fatal work in fourteen hours.  He said, as he was sinking, "I have a Friend.  It is all light about me.  I shall soon get home."</P>
109.sgm:<P>His conduct in life and experience in death were just the opposite of those of a poor fellow I visited in the hospital a few months before.  He said to me, as he was nearing "the dreary flood:" "I used to enjoy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>No language can portray the wretchedness and despair of that poor man.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Mary Jones was, in spirit and in piety, the exact counterpart of her husband.  It seemed there was such an affinity between them that they could not long be separated from each other, for two days after the exit of her "dear Isaac" she was laid low by the same fell destroyer, the cholera.  About an hour before her death, after a dreadful struggle with the disease, which appeared to convulse every muscle of her frame, she sat up in her bed, and, clapping her hands, shouted, "Glory! glory! glory!  I shall soon meet my dear husband, and shall be with my blessed Jesus forever."  She then joined me in singing:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O land of rest, for thee I sigh;<LB>When will the moment come,<LB>When I shall lay my armor by,<LB>And dwell with Christ at home?<LB>O this is not my home,<LB>This world's a wilderness of woe;<LB>This world is not my home," etc.</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>She then sung two hymns in her mother tongue.  I could not understand the sentiment, but could not be mistaken in the spirit in which they were sung.  Her voice was strong and clear, and as sweet, I should say, as the melody of the spheres.  At that moment her physician, a German, still living in this city, came in to see his dying patient, and there she sat singing as cheerily as a lark.  The doctor stood in the doorway through which he was entering, and gazed in utter astonishment till the melody ceased, and said, "Why, how she sings!"</P>
109.sgm:<P>As the tide of life ebbed out, and she was no longer able to shout and sing, she repeated, in soft whispers, "Jesus, Jesus, O my precious Jesus!"  She was buried beside her husband in "Yerba Buena Cemetery," to await with him the certain fulfillment of that Divine announcement by the mouth of St. Paul, "If the Spirit of him that raised up Jesus from the dead dwell in you, he that raised up Christ from the dead shall also quicken your mortal bodies by his Spirit that dwelleth in you."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>HENRY DUNN,</P>
109.sgm:<P>CAME to California about the close of the year 1849.  He was but a youth, on which account, and on account of his uncle, Wm. Eades, an old friend of mine in Georgetown, D.C., I felt a great interest in him.  When I found him in the hospital he was still able to walk about, and thought he should soon get better.  I invited him to come and stop at our house until he should recover.  He accepted the invitation, and said he would come in a day or two from that time.  When I called again, however, I was astonished to find that he had suddenly been seized with spasms, which had brought him rapidly down to the gates of death.  He, however, had some time before embraced religion, and seemed fully prepared for his exit.  On Sunday night, the seventeenth of March, 1850, after recovering from a dreadful spasm, he sung, with a clear voice:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"My suffering time will soon be o'er,<LB>And I shall sigh and weep no more,<LB>In that morning, in that morning,<LB>And we'll all meet together in that morning.<LB>My ransom'd soul shall soar away,<LB>To sing God's praise in endless day,<LB>In that morning, etc.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:"I have some friends before me gone,<LB>And I'm resolved to follow on,<LB>In that morning, etc.<LB>They're seated now around the throne,<LB>And looking out for me to come,<LB>In that morning, etc."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>On the following Thursday night, March 21, his tide of life ebbed out, and he quietly sunk in the repose of death.  He said to me, a few hours before he died, "I am ready for death.  I shall go to my blessed Jesus.  I want you to write to Uncle William, and tell him I am going to rest, and, though we shall never again meet on earth, I appoint to meet him, and Aunt Martha, and grandma, and all the family in heaven."  And again he repeated, "I shall meet Uncle William, and Aunt Martha, and grandma, and all the family in heaven."</P>
109.sgm:<P>C. R. HOYT.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ONE day in the month of August, 1850, in visiting the desolate sick strangers of the City Hospital, I entered a "ward" in which there were about thirty patients.  After speaking to a number of them, I proposed, as was my custom, to sing an appropriate hymn, and pray with them.  I had never met with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Rising from my knees, a dying young man beckoned me to his bedside.  Laughing and weeping together, he said, "O, I am so glad to see you!  It is so cheering in this wicked place to hear a song of Zion, and the voice of prayer."  He then gave an account of his religious experience, and said in conclusion: "Here I am, away from my home and my friends, a stranger in a strange land, dying; but the blood of Jesus is sufficient for me.  I have no fear of death."  "Yes," I replied, "the blood of Jesus Christ, his Son, cleanseth us from all sin."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O, precious truth," said he.  "If that were the only truth revealed in the Bible, it is sufficient.  Upon that one truth we could build all our hopes of heaven.  That one truth received and applied, would save the world.  Happy! happy! happy! Glory be to God, my soul is happy!"  Thus C. R. Hoyt, from Ohio, left the world.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>MARSHAL B. BROWN.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN the month of February, 1851, I found in a large ward of the City Hospital, then on Pacific-street, crowded with patients, a youth from Vigo County, Indiana.  At first he was not inclined to talk much, but after singing and prayer he would have me sit down by his side, and hear his sad tale of sorrow.  He said in substance that he had embraced religion some time before he left home.  When he started for California, it was with the determination to hold on to his religion, and honor Christ wherever he went.  But in crossing the Plains, hearing nothing but profanity, and having many things to try his patience, he gradually slid away, and finally lost his religion.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O how wretched I am," said he.  "Here I must die in this miserable place.  Not one friend to soothe my dying pillow.  And then be lost forever!"  Meantime, streams of bitter tears flowed down his pallid cheeks.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"What did my blessed Jesus do to you," said I, "that you should run away from him and disgrace his cause?  Did he not treat you well?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O, yes," he replied, "but I have denied him."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>"Marshal, Marshal, what a pity that you denied your Lord!  What are you going to do about it?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O, it is too late now; I can't do anything.  I might have saved my soul, but now all is lost!"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"So thought poor Peter, no doubt," I replied, "when he denied his Lord, and behaved so badly in the presence of his enemies.  But Jesus, though grieved at his sin, was loving him all the time, and looked after him.  That sorrowful, piteous look!  Peter could not stand it.  `He went out immediately, and wept bitterly.'  Then was Jesus glad, and the angels rejoiced when they saw Peter weeping.  Such is the sympathy of Jesus and his holy angels for poor backsliders.  The angel at the tomb of Jesus said, `Go tell the disciples and Peter that he is risen.'  And soon after it was proclaimed, `The Lord is risen indeed, and hath appeared unto Simon.'  Peter sincerely repented, and was not Jesus kind to him?  Marshal, Jesus feels just so toward you to-day.  Do you hate your sins?  And will you give them all up?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O yes," said he.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Then receive Jesus in your confidence, and in your heart's affections, <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"I'll try."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I shook his hand, saying, "I leave you in the care <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>When I went again I saw that he was sinking, but the dark clouds had flown, for his wounded heart had been healed and gladdened "by the washing of regeneration and renewing of the Holy Ghost."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I saw him several times afterward before he died, and always found him patient and hopeful, trusting in Jesus.  He requested me to write to his friends, (which I did,) and said, "Tell them to prepare to meet me in a better world than this."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Marshal B. Brown soon afterward bid adieu to the hospital, and was conducted, we doubt not, to that healthful clime where the inhabitants never say, "I am sick."</P>
109.sgm:<P>WILLIAM H. STEVENS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>BROTHER STEVENS was from Winnebago County, Illinois, where he had a wife and six children.  He was taken down sick at a boarding-house on Clarke's Point, in Broadway.  There were no temperance hotels here in those days.  Brother Stevens lay in a "bunk," in the second story of the building.  This story was all in one room, and the boarders, of almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:every name and nation, were there stowed away in tiers of "bunks," as they have them on passenger ships; only in the roughest style.  These tiers not only extended round the wall on all sides, but were built up in crib form, with little passages between them, all over the floor.  In this most uncomfortable place, Brother Stevens lingered several weeks, and died.  The bar-room, underneath him, was the scene of drunken reveling, profane oaths, filthy songs, and midnight brawls.  The sick man, on one occasion, offered the landlord ten dollars if he would, for one night, suspend the noise of the bar-room, that he might have a little rest; but quietness could not be bought at any price.  He requested that some one should go for a minister, or any other Christian man, to come and see him, but nobody there had time.  Never having met with the brother, and knowing nothing of his case, I chanced to preach, one Sunday morning, in the street opposite his window.  Hearing the welcome sounds of a song of Zion, he got out of his bunk, and crawled to the window, and there listened for the last time to a preached Gospel.  The text on that occasion was, "The night cometh, when no man can work."  He wept and praised God at that window, for the unexpected privilege, and crawled back to his bed, wishing some one would tell the preacher that a dying brother would like to see him.  A man whom he had hired to nurse him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>There he lay, calm and composed.  After speaking of his experience during his illness, he said, "I have a dear wife and six children in Illinois.  I leave them in the care of Jesus.  I have for many years been a member of the Methodist Episcopal Church, and have proved the sufficiency of the grace of God in a great variety of trials.  I want you to write to my wife, and say to her, `I die in peace, and go home to heaven.  I appoint to meet her and the children there.'"  In a few minutes afterward, without a groan or a struggle, he fell asleep in Christ.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The next day, Sunday, March 3, 1850, I stood on a pile of lumber in Happy Valley, and preached his funeral sermon to a large, attentive audience, in the open air.  The text was, "All flesh is as grass, and all the glory of man as the flower of grass.  The grass withereth, and the flower thereof fadeth away, but the word of the Lord endureth forever."</P>
109.sgm:<P>ORLANDO GALE.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE subject of this notice had been sick at the City Hospital for many weeks, with chronic diarrhea, a disease very prevalent in California in those days, and fatal to thousands of early California adventurers.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>I extract from my diary, of March the twenty-fifth, the following notice:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Poor Orlando died this afternoon.  Since he professed religion, last Friday, he has been very peaceful and happy.  He leaves, in Lowell, Massachusetts, a widowed mother.  I am very glad we took him to our house.  He, by possibility, might not otherwise have been converted."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>A. C. CHIPPELL.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON New-Year's Day, 1852, I visited the State Marine Hospital, to pay "the compliments of the season" to the sick and dying.  After singing and praying in a certain ward, an old gentleman, greatly emaciated, beckoned me to him.  He grasped my hand, and wept some time before he could speak, and then said, "O, that precious hymn you sing, `A home in heaven.'  It fills my soul with rapture.  Glory be to God!  My soul is full of glory!"  He made me sing it again, and said, "It makes me forget all my sorrows."</P>
109.sgm:<P>He then told me that he had been a servant of God for fifteen years, and that now, in his extremity of poverty and affliction, God was unspeakably precious to his soul.  Said he, "I have a large family in Connecticut, and it would greatly gratify my heart to see them once more; but God, my Father, knows what is best.  I do not wish to decide the question, whether I shall get well, or depart and be with Jesus, which is far better.  I leave it all in the hands of God.  I am ready, and will wait his pleasure.  Glory be to God,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Not a doubt doth arise, to darken my skies,<LB>Or hide for a moment my Lord from mine eyes.'"</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>He said to me again, a few days later, "O, I love my friends, and should delight to see them, and to kiss them," the tears standing in the furrows of his sunken cheeks, "but I would not turn my hand to live, unless it is the will of the Lord.  I am happy, happy, in God.  And," continued he,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Jesus can make a dying bed<LB>Feel soft as downy pillows are,<LB>While on his breast I lean my head,<LB>And breathe my life out sweetly there.'"</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Such were the dying triumphs of A. C. Chippell He soon afterward exchanged a miserable berth in the hospital for a mansion in heaven, fitted up for his reception by the King of Glory himself.</P>
109.sgm:<P>MORTON, OF ILLINOIS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I HAVE forgotten the Christian name of Brother Morton, but I have not a doubt that his "name is written in the Lamb's book of life."  He was a tried Christian.  I saw him frequently during his protracted illness in the hospital, and always found him patient, resigned, and happy.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"All is well," was his favorite hymn, and he invariably joined me in singing it.  He requested me the day before his death to write his wife, and tell her, "I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"What!" said I, "Brother Morton, have you not been sick ever since you came to California?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Yes," he replied, "I came here sick, and have been sick ever since, and have suffered everything but death; but Jesus has been so precious to my soul, that it has been the best part of my life."</P>
109.sgm:<P>His was the experience of a weary pilgrim, who had been homeward bound for many long years, and was just catching the joyful recognitions of kindred faces not seen for half a century.  The experience of the mariner who had passed through shipwrecks, sickness in foreign hospitals, life among the cannibals, and dreary years in frozen seas; a Sir John Franklin returning, and now he is in sight of home, his long-sought home.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Near this triumphant Christian lay poor Y., from New-York City, who said to me, "My wife is a good Christian woman, but I have lived a skeptic, and a wicked man.  Now my skepticism is all gone.  O! if I could but send word to my wife that I have obtained religion, and am ready to die, then I should be satisfied.  But, alas! I have no such word to send.  I am a poor sinner, unforgiven."</P>
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109.sgm:<P>Poor fellow, I felt great solicitude on his behalf, and prayed for him frequently, but fear he died without Christ.</P>
109.sgm:<P>On the twenty-first of March, 1850, I took Brother H. with us to witness the dying triumphs of Brother Morton.  When I entered his room his eyes were set back and motionless, and I thought he was dead, but upon examination found that his pulsations, though feeble, had not ceased.  I supposed him unconscious of anything I said, and yet I thought his favorite hymn might soothe him in his passage through the chilling flood.  So I sung,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"What's this that steals, that steals upon my frame?<LB>Is it death? is it death?<LB>That soon will quench, will quench this vital flame?<LB>Is it death? is it death?" etc.</HI>
109.sgm:<P>When I commenced singing the second verse, I observed his bosom heave, and then he began to sigh with emotion.  On the third line his eyes flashed with heavenly joy, and on the fourth he raised his voice distinctly, and sung,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"To hide my Saviour from my eyes:<LB>I soon shall mount the upper skies.<LB>All is well! all is well!"</HI>
109.sgm:<P>As I continued the song, his strength failing him, he responded to the sentiment by oft repeating, "Halleluiah! halleluiah!"  And the ecstatic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>JAMES F. DIXON.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THIS is the Louisiana man referred to on page 71.  He had been religiously educated, had a Methodist wife, and was quite an intelligent man, but, alas! had lived "without God."  I spent much time in trying to lead him to Christ during his longcontinued illness.  At one time he said, "I have spent my life in sin, and it is so presumptuous now, when dying, to offer myself to God, I cannot have the face to do it.  I cannot think it possible for him to pardon me now.  When I was crossing the mountains on my way to California, I got into great trouble in a certain mountain pass; I went away and prayed that God would deliver me, and enable me to get to California; I felt, though a sinner, that God did regard my prayer.  But I have no faith in deathbed repentance.  It's no use." I urged him to throw himself on the atonement of Christ as the last plank; sink or swim, to hold on to that, and cry to God for help.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>This conversation took place on the fifth day of April, 1850.  I continued, at different times, to labor with him until the twentieth of the same month, when he said:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I give up, I give up all to God.  O, that I had done it twenty years ago.  O, that I could but live to serve him! but to expect his mercy when I am worn out and dying; how can he forgive me?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>He continued to struggle for about a week from that time, when God, for Christ's sake, gave him the evidence of pardon.  At his request, I entered his name on the class book as a candidate for Church membership, but he had served a "probation" of only a few weeks, when, by the great mercy of God in Christ, I believe he was "admitted into full membership" in the Church triumphant on high.</P>
109.sgm:<P>C. W. BRADLEY.</P>
109.sgm:<P>SOME time in the spring of 1850, on entering a small basement room in the City Hospital, on Clay-street, I discovered, by the dim light of a small lamp, three men, or rather wrecks of men, for they were worn down by disease to mere skeletons.  One of them, a tall Frenchman, whose language I did not understand, performed a successful pantomime, to warn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>ROMEO DORWIN.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN my weekly visits to the City Hospital, I found, on one occasion, in the spring of 1851, a great many men who had been scalded and mangled by a steamboat explosion on the Sacramento River.  Here lay some with broken limbs, and there a tier of poor fellows with all the skin scalded off their hands, arms, and faces, as a substitute for which they were coated over with some kind of dough.  Humanity was so mutilated and masked, that a stranger would have asked, "What kind of animals are these?"  Who can tell what those poor men suffered?  Five years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>In the midst of several hundreds who appeared to have no experimental acquaintance with God, it was indeed refreshing to fall in with such a patient as Romeo Dorwin.  He told me that he was from Vermont, where he had a wife and two children; that he had been in the service of God for many years, and though separated from his family (except one son, a young man who was with him) and confined in the hospital, amid such very unpleasant surroundings, still God was very gracious to him.  His experience exemplified the truth of a precious announcement of Isaiah: "Thou wilt keep him in perfect peace whose mind is stayed on thee, because he trusteth in thee."  He took great delight in talking about Jesus, and in singing his praise, for though far gone in consumption, his voice was clear and distinct, both to talk and to sing.  I saw him often during his decline, and was always asked to sing his favorite hymn, the dying sentiments of Bishop M'Kendree:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"What's this that steals, that steals upon my frame,<LB>Is it death?  Is it death?<LB>That soon shall quench, shall quench this vital flame,<LB>Is it death?  Is it death?<LB>If this be death, I soon shall be<LB>From every pain and sorrow free,<LB>I shall the King of Glory see,<LB>All is well! all is well!" etc.</HI>
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109.sgm:<P>He joined in the song with remarkable spirit and sweetness of voice.  It was no ordinary privilege to witness the triumphs of faith over the depressing facts characterizing the experience of a husband and father so far from home.  So unable to help his family, so dependent himself; the sights he saw, the sighs he heard, all combining to cast, as it were, the pall of death over the soul and body of any doubtful or doubting man, yet I never heard a murmur or complaint from the lips of Brother Dorwin.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"It's all right," said he; "my Father knows what is best.  I would like to see my family if agreeable to his will, but I have given my dear wife and children all up to him; I leave them in his care.  I know he careth for them, and he can provide for them with or without me.  Though I see their faces no more on earth, I expect to meet them in heaven.  Glory be to God! I shall soon get there, and sorrow and suffer no more.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Not a doubt doth arise to darken the skies,<LB>Or hide for a moment my Lord from mine eyes.'"</HI>
109.sgm:<P>The night he died, which was the fifteenth of April, he seemed conscious for several hours before that he never would again see the sun by mortal vision, and such calmness and composure as he manifested, I presume never was felt by any man leaving home for California.  Some of his expressions were as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Asking for a small looking-glass, and taking it into his own hand, he took a last look at himself, seeming to scrutinize his dying features with great interest, and then, laying the glass aside, he resumed his theme of praise to God, and so continued till slowly and softly he fell asleep in the arms of Jesus.  Will his family live for God, and meet him in heaven?</P>
109.sgm:<P>WILLIAM CROCKETT.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I BECAME acquainted with the subject of this notice in the month of December, 1850.  He was surrounded by the wounded, diseased, and dying, from almost every clime, whom the stern law of necessity had driven to the City Hospital, then on Pacific-street, San Francisco.  A city hospital is a most undesirable place, but a gracious refuge for the unfortunate sick stranger.  Board and lodging, doctor's bills and nurse's wages, were so enormously high here in those days that it mattered not how much money a man had, if he were sick long, his purse could not but be drained.  And after a poor patient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>Young Crockett was far gone with bronchitis when I first found him.  He was greatly distressed about the state of his soul.  Said he: "I am not prepared to die.  I was brought up to fear God and to pray; but when I grew to manhood, I went from my home in Nashville, Tennessee, to New-Orleans.  There I fell into bad company, and became very wicked; but all the time, though I could put on pleasantry and look a man in the face, I was tormented by a guilty conscience.  My mother seemed to be talking to me all the time in my heart, and pleading and praying that I should give my heart to God.  I had no peace day or night, and now I am completely miserable.  I know not what to do.  O, if I only had religion!  I would give the world if I had it, if I could obtain the pardon of my sins."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I assured him that if the world were his, he could not with its price atone for the smallest sin he had ever committed; that it was a dreadful thing to sin against God, involving terrible consequences to soul and body here and hereafter.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"My dear brother," continued I, "what a great pity it is that you have spent your youth in this miserable business of sinning against God.  What <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"O yes, and hate myself for having sinned," he replied, with great emotion.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Are you willing now to renounce them all, sins of the life and sins of the heart, to give them all up forever?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O yes," said he; "I am more than willing."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Thank the Lord," I added; " he is now working in you to will and to do his good pleasure.  His pleasure is to have you `turn and live.'  Do you <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
109.sgm:<P>"I am trying.  If I know my heart, I do."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Do you now consecrate your soul and body to God, `living or dying, to be the Lord's' without reserve?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I do; I give him all."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"You are then ready to receive Jesus Christ as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:your Saviour now?  His blood now atones for every sin you have ever committed.  You may now obtain mercy on his account.  His <HI REND="italics">credit</HI>
109.sgm: never was questioned in the kingdom of grace, but he has actually deposited into the treasury of immutable justice the price of your redemption.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Believe in him who died for thee;<LB>And sure as he hath died,<LB>Thy debt is paid, thy soul is free,<LB>And thou art justified.'"</HI>
109.sgm:<P>He seemed much comforted in believing that Jesus had made a deposit for him, which he might draw in time to save him from eternal ruin.  I left him praying and trusting in Jesus.  When I called again, I found him peaceful and happy.  He said that God, for Christ's sake, had pardoned all his sins, and that he was not afraid to die.  He lingered several weeks afterward, quietly reclining on the arm of Jesus.</P>
109.sgm:<P>He was removed from the large crowded ward into a small room alone, where he could pray and praise without interruption.  At his request I administered to him the sacrament of the Lord's Supper, after which he seemed almost overcome with joyful emotion.</P>
109.sgm:<P>He said he wanted to join the Church; and that as his mother was a member of the Presbyterian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>DYING MESSAGE OF EDWARD MOW.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I THINK it was near the close of the year 1850, I held my ear close to the lips of Edward Mow, who said: "I want you to write to John T. Cromwell, Ontario County, New-York.  Tell him that I have been sick ever since I landed in California.  I got a little better, and started for home; got as far as San Francisco, and was taken worse.  My hope is firm in the Lord, that if we never meet on earth, we may meet in heaven."</P>
109.sgm:<P>He spoke very affectionately of his sister Margaret, and added: "Tell Mr. Cromwell to remember me to all my young friends.  Tell him to talk to my sister Margaret."  He was calm and peaceful, and quietly sunk into the sleep of death.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>BROTHER GUY, AND HIS TWO DYING REQUESTS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I HAD frequently conversed and prayed with Brother Guy during his illness in the City Hospital; and it was a real pleasure to witness his patience, and to hear him talk of the love of Christ.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A few minutes before his death he said to me, "I have two requests to make of you:  Don't let them bury me until to-morrow; I would not like to be buried alive."  (They generally buried their dead immediately.)  "And I want them to put me down deep enough.  I don't want the dogs or cayotes" (a small species of wolf whose howling could frequently be heard from the city) "to get my body."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Have you no requests to make in regard to your soul?" inquired I.</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O, no!" said he, "Jesus will take care of my soul."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Thus, on the seventeenth day of March, 1850, he closed his eyes on scenes of suffering and woe in the hospital, to open them in the bright visions of eternal day.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>CHARLES AUROM.</P>
109.sgm:<P>HE was by trade a painter, a member of our Church, and a consistent Christian in life, so far as I know.  He was seized with cholera about the first of November, 1850, and was buried on the third.  I spent some time with him, on two different occasions, during his short illness.  In the intervals between those awful paroxysms, which so quickly loosen every pin in the tabernacle of the soul, he related to me his Christian experience: He had been clearly converted in Philadelphia, whence he came; had enjoyed much of the love of God; expressed with great regret his unfaithfulness in the cause of Christ; but had never since his profession of religion turned his back upon him, and Jesus had never forsaken him; and now that he was dying, he felt his sweet pardoning love and sanctifying grace flowing into his heart.  He was very peaceful, yea, triumphant.  He was happily disappointed to find that death, so dreadful in the prospective, had lost all its terrors.  I thought it well, indeed, that he had an honest, efficient Comforter in the person of the Holy Ghost; for human helps, even sincerely rendered, are of no avail in such a case.  I had there an example of those deceptious offers of comfort too frequently  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>While I was conversing with the patient, the same man came in and said, "Keep your spirits up, Charley; you'll get better directly; you'll be all right in a day or two."</P>
109.sgm:<P>But, happily for "Charley," he had his "spirits up," buoyant with immortal hope.  He knew that he would be "all right in a day or two;" for he should be in that country where the people never die.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I delivered an address on the occasion of his funeral, from the door of the house in which he died, to a large audience, which stood with hats off, in Montgomery-street.  I laid his mortal remains in "Yerba Buena Cemetery," to await the awaking peals of the last trumpet.</P>
109.sgm:<P>SAMUEL M. RAMSON.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON the sixth of November, 1850, I was called to the cholera hospital, to attend the funeral of Samuel M.  Ramson, of New-York.  What a scene was there!  Some convulsed and writhing in pain, such as the cholera alone can produce.  Others had passed the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>384</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>I talked to as many as could converse, and labored especially for one poor fellow from Connecticut.  He said he believed in experimental religion, but did not possess it, and had prayed but a few times in his life.  I tried to instruct him, and urged him, with all the earnestness I could command, to try then to pray and give his heart to God.  I kneeled by his bedside, and prayed for him, and after bringing to bear upon him all the moral suasion I could call into requisition, I said:  "Now, my dear brother, will you make an effort to give your heart to Jesus, and seek the pardon of your sins?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>He replied, very coolly, "I'll think about it."  Poor man, he had had his lifetime to think about it, and had done nothing more.  Procrastination was a leading principle of life with him, and it was the strong, all-controlling principle in death.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Procrastination is the thief of time:<LB>Inch by inch it steals till all is gone,<LB>And to the mercy of a moment leaves<LB>The vast concerns of an eternal state."</HI>
109.sgm:<P>And that precious moment, on which the soul's eternal destiny hangs, is not treasured, but decoyed and stolen, by the same dreadful rogue that stole the rest.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>385</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>Not so with young Ramson.  His friend told me, that he (Ramson) had embraced religion on his passage to California, and while in the mines, went alone, dayly, among the bushes to pray, and had, up to the day of death, conducted himself with Christian propriety.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE BROTHER WHO DEPARTED WITHOUT THE SACRAMENT.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON the twenty-seventh of December, 1852, as I passed from ward to ward, in the City Hospital, trying to administer comfort to the sick strangers there congregated, I saw, in one corner of a small room, a man about forty years of age, whose countenance at once engaged my attention.  He evidently was very sick, but his face exhibited an air of serenity and pleasantness very rare in such a place.  By some singular oversight, though I penned the facts I here relate, and have a vivid recollection of his face, I omitted to record his name.  Thank the Lord that the Holy Spirit is not subject to such mistakes in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>386</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:records in the <HI REND="italics">Book of Life</HI>
109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>THE DYING GERMAN IN A STABLE.</P>
109.sgm:<P>DURING the autumn of 1853, the City Hospital, which could accommodate about three hundred patients, was crowded to excess.  One day, after visiting the wards of the sick and dying, and passing out into the back yard, a nurse said to me: "There is a very sick man in the stable," pointing to the door.  I entered, and saw the emaciated frame of a tall, intelligent looking young German.  He told me he was a druggist, had been well brought up, and was doing a good business in his father-land, when he took a notion he would come to California.  He had been at work in the mines, and got his leg broken.  It had been too long neglected, and mortification had taken place, and he feared he never would again see his dear mother.  I explained to him our guilty and exposed condition as sinners, and told him of a Friend, his Friend, one who loved him more than his mother ever did or could love him; that his mother in Germany knew not the condition of her son, and could not help him if she did; that this Friend knew all about him, and that he was nigh at hand; that he was born in a stable, and was present then, in his spiritual nature, his essential Divinity, in that mean stable, and was waiting to receive him as his child.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>Never before did I see a poor soul drink in the simple Gospel with such avidity.  His faith seemed to follow me closely step by step, till, by the mercy of the Lord, I led him to the cross.  Gazing with wonder, he at once recognized the dying Jesus as the victim slain for him.  His faith took right hold of the atonement and exulted in an almighty Saviour.  His countenance shone like that of Moses, as he exclaimed, "O, my Jesus, my Jesus, I do love thee!"</P>
109.sgm:<P>As he continued to praise God he, every now and then, turned his beaming eyes toward me, and said, "I am so glad you came in to see me.  I did not know Jesus till you came in and told me about my precious Saviour.  I would like to get well, that I might do something great for you."</P>
109.sgm:<P>I assured him that I was repaid a thousandfold in seeing him happy in God.  His strength failing, he said, My poor pody, he is very sick, he will soon go down; but my spirit, he is well now, he will soon go up to my blessed Jesus."  A few hours sufficed to end the mortal strife, and his spirit went up to his blessed Jesus.</P>
109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>THE DYING NORWEGIAN BOY.</P>
109.sgm:<P>IN the spring of 1853 there lay in the State Marine Hospital of this city, a Norwegian boy, nigh unto death.  Peter Johnson, a Swede, who had been incurably mangled in the mines, and who had experienced religion during his confinement in the hospital, occupied the next cot.  Peter spoke very good English, but the boy could only speak his mother tongue.  A priest passing through the ward, requested the Swede to be his interpreter, while he should enlighten the dying boy at his side.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I have always found the priests of the Romish Church very regular in their visits to the hospitals.  The following conversation in substance was held between the said priest and the Norwegian youth, through the interpreter:</P>
109.sgm:<P>"My boy," said the priest, "you are dying.  I am very sorry to tell you that if you die in your present state, you will certainly go to hell.  Now, my dear boy, if you will confess your sins to me, and give your soul into my care, I will get a pardon for you, so that when you die you may escape the pains of hell and get to heaven."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I cannot trust you," replied the boy; "my fader and mudder taught me to confess my sins to my Got <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>390</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>The priest immediately left, and the boy soon after died, "trusting in his Got in heaven."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Parents, sow pure Gospel seed in the virgin soil of your children's hearts.  They will need your teachings to guard and guide them when you are dead.</P>
109.sgm:<P>JOSEPH M. GUSTIN.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I BELIEVE Brother Gustin was from Pennsylvania.  He passed very peacefully through the scene of starvation and suffering in the "Ex-City Hospital," described on page 66.  He died about the middle of March, 1850.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A short time before his final adieu to the gloomy hospital scene surrounding him, he told me that he had "enjoyed religion for three years."  In conversation with him, I quoted the seventh verse of the first chapter of the first Epistle of John: "But if we walk in the light, as he is in the light, we have fellowship one with another, and the blood of Jesus Christ his Son cleanseth us from all sin."  He replied with much feeling, "O how sweet that is."</P>
109.sgm:<P>Peace to the ashes of Brother Gustin.</P>
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109.sgm:<P>ISAAC ENSLOW.</P>
109.sgm:<P>BROTHER ENSLOW was from New-York City, by trade a sail-maker.  He was a tall, noble-looking man, and had in him a very generous heart.  I never heard any complaints from any source against the Christian character of Brother Enslow, during his sojourn of two or three years in California; but he was not known as a very active member of the Church, till our forty days' meeting in the Bethel, in the spring of 1852.  At that meeting he took hold like a man thoroughly furnished, and did efficient service.  About two months before his last illness, he professed to be wholly sanctified to the Lord, and his conduct corresponded with his profession to the last.  About the fifth of August, 1852, he was taken sick with a fever.  He was most peaceful and triumphant on his bed of death.  He spoke with great affection of his wife and daughter at home, and he would be delighted again to see them; but, said he, "Jesus is my Saviour and my King.  He saves me now from all sin, and he has a right to rule.  I most gladly submit to the decisions of his infinite wisdom.  He doeth all things well.  My soul is full of light and love.</P>
109.sgm:<P>I bade him adieu to attend a camp-meeting a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>JUDSON FORBES.</P>
109.sgm:<P>ON the second day of June, 1856, I was called to the United States Marine Hospital to see a dying man, who had requested an interview with me.  Kneeling by his side, I asked, "Do you know me?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Yes, Father Taylor."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Well, my dear friend, what can I do for you?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"O, I want to know what I must do to be saved.  I am a great sinner.  I know not what I shall do."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Have you long felt yourself to be a great sinner?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Ever since I left home, a mere boy, and went to sea, my mother's prayers have been ringing in my ears.  She used to pray with me every night.  I have often thought what a dreadful thing it is to be a sinner, after having the instructions of such a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>393</PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>"Do you think," said I, "that you hate your sins, not only on account of their consequences to you, but because they were perpetrated against a wise and merciful God."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Yes," he replied, "and I give up all to him."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Even if you knew you would get well," continued I, "you would consecrate your heart and life wholly to him, and living or dying, be the Lord's without reserve?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Yes," said he, "I only desire to live that I may serve him."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Do you believe that Jesus Christ died to redeem you from sin?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I do."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Do you believe that God the Father accepts the price which Jesus paid for you?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I do."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"You believe then, though guilty, bankrupt, and condemned, that on Christ's account you may to-day obtain the pardon of all your sins?"</P>
109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
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109.sgm:<P>"Yes, I do."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Are you not glad that you have such an almighty and sympathizing Saviour on whom you may cast all your sins and sorrows?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"I am glad."</P>
109.sgm:<P>"You are trusting him now, are you not?"</P>
109.sgm:<P>"Yes;" and continued, "O! O! O!" the tears streaming down his sunken cheeks, "I never felt so before.  I feel such a load taken off my heart.  I feel that I could fly away to the arms of my blessed Jesus.  I never before had any idea of the ability and willingness of Jesus to save me.  I feel that he hath saved me.  He hath cleaned me through and through.  I hope to see my God in heaven before to-morrow morning.</P>
109.sgm:<P>He, however, survived two days longer, and sweetly fell asleep, trusting in an almighty Saviour.  Such was the closing scene of Judson Forbes, from Wisconsin, I believe he told me; aged twenty-four years.</P>
109.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
109.sgm:<BACK><DIV><AD><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>NEW BOOKS<LB>PUBLISHED BY CARLTON AND PORTER,<LB>200 Mulberry-street, New-York.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Six Steps to Honor.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Six Steps to Honor; or, Great Truths Illustrated.  Square 12mo Price, 65 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>CONTENTS.  First Step--Obedience.  Second Step--Truthfulness.  Third Step--Honesty.  Fourth Step--Kindness.  Fifth Step--Energy and Perseverance.  Sixth Step--Piety.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Beautifully illustrated with six engravings.  It is designed as a gift-book for the holidays, and should be read by all the boys in the land, as it contains truths and suggestions which, if rightly followed out, will be the means of making them good and useful men.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Henry's Birthday;</P>
109.sgm:<P>Or, Beginning to be a Missionary.  A new Gift-Book, beautifully illustrated.  Square 12mo.  Price, 35 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A Winter at Wood Lawn.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A Winter at Wood Lawn; or, the Armor of Light Illustrated.  Square 12mo.  Price, muslin, 65 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>This charming volume is intended as a gift-book for boys and girls between the ages of eleven and fifteen.  In a series of interesting conversations concerning the armor of the Christian, which are relieved by lively incidents, it imparts many valuable religious lessons, and communicates many important facts.  It is elegantly and profusely illustrated.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Boys and Girls' Illustrated Olio.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Square 8vo.  Price, muslin, 70 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>This is literally a picture-book, for it contains ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS.  A more elegantly illustrated gift-book, for boys and girls between the ages of nine and fourteen, will not, we feel sure, be issued in this country.  Its reading matter is instructive and unexceptionable.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Faithful Nicolette.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Faithful Nicolette; or, the French Nurse.  18mo.  Price, muslin, 25 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>This is a charmingly written little book, translated from the German by Mrs. MYERS.  It illustrates the fidelity of a servant, the cheerful submission of two lovely children to great trials, and the providence of God in caring for those who trust in him.  We shall be disappointed if the name of Good Nicolette does not become a household word in thousands of families.  The volume has several very superior engravings.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Poor Nelly.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Poor Nelly; or, the Golden Mushroom.  18mo.  Price, muslin, 28 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>This is a delightful little book, containing the singular history of an orphan girl as related by herself when she became an old woman.  Poor Nelly's trials will make many weep, while her goodness will command admiration.</P>
109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>FOR SALE ALSO BY J. P. MAGEE, 5 CORNHILL, BOSTON, AND H. H. MATTESON, SENECA-STREET, BUFFALO.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The Life and Times of Bishop Hedding.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Life and Times of Rev. Elijah Hedding, D.D., late Senior Bishop of the Methodist Episcopal Church.  By Rev. D. W. CLARK, D.D.  With an Introduction, by Rev. Bishop E. S. JANES.  Pp. 686.  Price, large 12mo., $1 50; 8vo., $2 00.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A memoir of the Rev. Dr. Hedding, late senior bishop of the Methodist Church, has been prepared by the Rev. Dr. Clark, which is published in a handsome volume.  It professes to portray the life and times of this venerable man, and involves almost the entire history of this denomination, at least for some thirty years past.  In the controversies and vicissitudes of the denomination during this period, Bishop Hedding took always a prominent part, giving the characteristic form and policy to the issue.  He was evidently a man of great energy and power, and possessed those personal qualities which make fast friends and gave him a preponderating influence in the Church of which he was so long bishop.  The religious traits of his character were prominent as well as peculiar.  The memoir is composed with great beauty of style and affectionateness of feeling: and altogether it will be regarded by the denomination as a welcome and instructive work.-- <HI REND="italics">New-York Evangelist</HI>
109.sgm:<P>We have received a copy of this work, which presents, mechanically, an elegant appearance.  We have not yet found time for its perusal, but when we do, we shall speak more minutely of it.  The name of Bishop Hedding lingers in the memory of the Church like the fragrance of a rose after its beauty hath departed, and is cherished with a filial fondness, while that of the talented author is a surety that his onerous but honorable task is well performed.  This book must have a large and ready sale.-- <HI REND="italics">North-Western Christian Advocate</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Life of Rev. Robert Newton.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The Life of Rev. Robert Newton, D.D., by THOMAS JACKSON, embellished with a fine portrait. 12mo., pp. 427.  Price, $1 00.</P>
109.sgm:<P>This volume is destined to have a great run.  Although it has been published in London but a few weeks, <HI REND="italics">sixteen thousand</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Temporal Power of the Pope.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The Temporal Power of the Pope: containing the Speech of the Hon. Joseph R. Chandler, delivered in the House of Representatives of the United States, January 11, 1855.  With Nine Letters, stating the prevailing Roman Catholic Theory in the Language of Papal Writers.  By JOHN M'CLINTOCK, D.D. 12mo., pp. 154.  Price, 45 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A series of letters to the Hon. J. R. Chandler, stating the prevailing Roman Catholic theory in the language of papal writers, forms the substance of this volume.  They were prepared in reference to the speech of Mr. Chandler, delivered at the last session of Congress, and from the position and character of the writer, as well as from his mode of treating the subject, are eminently deserving of public attention.-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Tribune</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Carlton &amp; Phillips, No. 200 Mulberry-street, New-York, have just issued a neat duodecimo volume of one hundred and fifty-four pages, with the foregoing title.  It needs not that we say the work is a most timely and masterly production.-- <HI REND="italics">Western Christian Advocate</HI>
109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>Heroes of Methodism.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The Heroes of Methodism.  Containing Sketches of Eminent Methodist Ministers, and Characteristic Anecdotes of their Personal History.  By Rev. J. B. WAKELEY, of the New-York Conference.  With Portraits of Bishops Asbury, Coke, and M'Kendree.  Large 12mo., pp. 470.  Price $1 25, with the usual discount to wholesale purchasers.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Dr. M'Clintock, who examined the work in manuscript, and is familiar with it, says, in the April number of the Quarterly Review: "It is a work of great interest to the Methodist public, and will doubtless have a great run."</P>
109.sgm:<P>With laudable industry, Mr. Wakeley has gleaned, from a great variety of sources, anecdotes and illustrations of the life and character of men to whom not only the Church of which they were ministers, but the world at large, and more especially these United States, are largely indebted.  They were the pioneers of Christianity, men of burning zeal and undaunted perseverance; spending their lives for the welfare of their fellow-men--in journeyings often, in perils of waters, in perils of robbers, in perils by their own countrymen, in perils in the city, and most especially in perils in the wilderness.  With equal truth may it be said also of these heralds of salvation, that they were "In weariness and painfulness, in watchings often, in hunger and thirst, in fastings often, in cold and nakedness."  The perusal of this volume cannot fail to kindle anew the flagging zeal of the successors of these truly great men.  We have entered into their labors, and it is owing to the blessing of the great Head of the Church upon <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
109.sgm: toil that <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
109.sgm: have such a goodly heritage.  Mr. Wakeley has executed his task with ability, and his beautifully printed volume, illustrated with portraits of Asbury, Coke, and M'Kendree, will doubtless have, as it deserves, a wide circulation.-- <HI REND="italics">National Magazine</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Pioneers of the West.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The Pioneers of the West; or, Life in the Woods.  By W. P. STRICKLAND.  Price $1.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The table of contents is quite attractive: The West; Pioneer Explorers of the West; Hunters of the West; Pioneer Settlers; Pioneer Preachers; Pioneer Institutions and Professional Men; Pioneer Boatmen; The Prophet Francis; Logan, the Mingo Chief; The Mountain Hunter; Indian Captivity; The "Old Chief," or, the Indian Missionary; The Hermit; Panther Hunting; The Squatter Family; The Lost Hunter; Wisconsin Schoolma'am.  These vivid pictures are sketches from life.  The author takes his readers with him as he traces the path of the pioneer explorer, settler, hunter, or preacher, and we follow the blazed path in the wilderness, and witness the thrilling scenes which start up on every hill, and in every valley, and glen, and river, until the blood chills at some deed of savage warfare, or warms at the recital of some of the thrilling scenes and heroic incidents with which the work abounds.  The interest is kept up through the whole volume, and the reader closes with the conviction that truth is as strange and as entertaining as fiction, and certainly more instructive.  The book is embellished with some fine wood-cuts.-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Advocate and Journal</HI>
109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>Systematic Beneficence.</P>
109.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">THREE PRIZE ESSAYS</HI>
109.sgm:<P>The Great Reform, by ABEL STEVENS.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The Great Question, by LORENZO WHITE.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Property Consecrated, by BENJAMIN ST. JAMES FRY.  Price, in one volume, 40 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>This long-expected work is at length published.  It comprises three essays.  THE GREAT REFORM, by Abel Stevens, covers 126 pages.  It is invincible in argument, stirring and eloquent in expression.  THE GREAT QUESTION, by Rev. Lorenzo White, of the New-England Conference, covers 234 pages.  It lacks the directness of the former, but is scarcely less powerful in argument or stirring in appeal.  The elucidation of Scriptural rules of beneficence should be carefully studied.  We commend chapter tenth to the consideration of those in the ministry who have excused themselves from giving, because they had given themselves to the ministry.  PROPERTY CONSECRATED, by Rev. Benjamin St. James Fry, of the Ohio Conference, covers 124 pages.  It is full of strong thoughts, clearly and forcibly expressed, and is well worthy of the honor awarded to it.  Its title is strikingly expressive as well as its arguments.-- <HI REND="italics">Ladies' Repository</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Selections from the British Poets.</P>
109.sgm:<P>By ELIZA WOODWORTH.  With <HI REND="italics">twelve</HI>
109.sgm:<P>The plan of this book of Selections is well conceived.  It takes in the whole range of British poets, from Chaucer down to Tennyson, and gives brief biographical and critical notices of each, with some of their best and most striking passages as specimens.-- <HI REND="italics">Methodist Quarterly Review</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Natural Goodness.</P>
109.sgm:<P>By Rev. T. F. RANDOLPH MERCEIN, M.A.  Price 65 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Its full title-page will sufficiently declare its object.  It is set forth as containing "suggestions toward an appreciative view of moral men, the philosophy of the present system of morality, and the relation of natural virtue to religion."  Without agreeing with the author fully in his view of the natural virtues, we have found his discussion one of the most interesting and able which has ever fallen under our notice, and we earnestly commend it to the attention of that large class of intelligent and amiable men who are resting upon their morality.  For sale by Ide &amp; Dutton.-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Witness</HI>
109.sgm:<P>Daniel verified in History and Chronology.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Showing the complete Fulfillment of all his Prophecies relating to Civil Affairs, before the close of the Fifth Century.  By A. M. OSBON, D.D.  With an Introduction, by D. D. WHEDON, D.D. 12mo., pp. 202.  Price 60 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>As the result of much patient study, Dr. Osbon has here given us new and striking views of that portion of Holy Writ to which his attention has been especially directed.  his positions are antagonisttic to those of all previous expositors with which we are acquainted.  He states them clearly and forcibly, yet with becoming modesty, and meets the objections to his theory with arguments not easily refuted.-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Advocate and Journal</HI>
109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
109.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
109.sgm:<P>Bishop Baker on the Discipline.</P>
109.sgm:<P>A Guide-Book in the Administration of the Discipline of the Methodist Episcopal Church.  By OSMON C. BAKER, D.D.  12mo., pp. 253.  Price, 60 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>We are glad this long-expected and much-desired book has at length made its appearance.  Since the first announcement that such a book was forthcoming, our ministry have looked for it with no little degree of impatience as a sure aid to their right and beneficial administration of Discipline.  The title of this work, and the source from whence it was furnished, warranted such expectation.  After a careful perusal of the volume, we have no hesitancy in asserting that the most sanguine of those expectants will more than realize all they hoped for.  We have here striking proof of that careful, patient investigation which precedes all the decisions and productions of Bishop Baker.  Our author has evidently made our "excellent book of Discipline" a subject of long and earnest study.  For many years he has been making note of the decisions given in annual and General Conferences by his able predecessors in office, on all difficult questions pertaining to our denominational administration.  This result of his labors is an invaluable boon to our ministry.  No Methodist minister can well afford to be without it.  The possession of this volume will save our <HI REND="italics">junior</HI>
109.sgm: preachers a great amount of study, much perplexity, and many troublesome errors.  The clearness, conciseness, and evident correctness of this production are marvels of mental investigation, acumen, and discernment.-- <HI REND="italics">Zion's Herald</HI>
109.sgm:<P>The Young Man Advised.</P>
109.sgm:<P>The Young Man Advised: Illustrations and Confirmations of some of the Chief Historical Facts of the Bible.  By E. O. HAVEN, D.D.  12mo., pp. 329.  Price, 75 cents.</P>
109.sgm:<P>Let no one suppose that we have here a book of commonplace counsels to the young.  The writer has seized upon some of the chief historical facts of the Bible, from which he has drawn illustrations, which he commends to the study and instruction of his readers, and thus in a new and most striking form has conveyed great practical truths which can hardly fail to make a deep impression upon the youthful mind.  He displays no slight degree of research in his own studies, and the whole is clothed with such historical beauty as will charm while his words will instruct the student.-- <HI REND="italics">New-York Observer</HI>
109.sgm:<P>This book differs from all others we have ever seen addressed to this class of readers.  It plods not o'er the old beaten track of the numerous volumes bearing similar titles.  Its design is to fortify the young against the assaults of infidelity, never perhaps more generally, more craftily, or more insidiously made than now.  In prosecuting this design it presents the greatest leading facts of the Bible, confirming them by the most conclusive evidence, historical and philosophical, proving beyond all controversy the superhuman, the divine origin of the Word of God.  This volume has none of that cold, stiff, dry argument which has characterized similar productions, repelling the young from their perusal.  Dr. Haven's method of defending the "book of books" has a novelty about it which must hold the attention of every young man who commences the perusal of his work.  His style and diction are of such a character as invest a powerfully argumentative treatise with all the charms of a "well-told tale."  If this book does not sell extensively, and do immense good, the author is not at fault.  We commend it to parents who would save their sons from moral wreck.  Let pastors join issue with parents in scattering this potent antagonist to the infidelity of the times.  ZETA.-- <HI REND="italics">Zion's Herald</HI>
109.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-111</TITLE>
111.sgm:<TITLE>Gospel pioneering: reminiscences of early Congregationalism in California, 1833-1920.  By William C. Pond, D.D.  Introduction by Professor John Wright Buckham: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
111.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
111.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
111.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
111.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
111.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
111.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
111.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>21-20428</LCCN>
111.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
111.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 627832</COPYRIGHT>
111.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>GOSPEL PIONEERING:</P>
111.sgm:<P>REMINISCENCES OF EARLY CONGREGATIONALISM</P>
111.sgm:<P>IN CALIFORNIA</P>
111.sgm:<P>1833-1920</P>
111.sgm:<P>BY</P>
111.sgm:<P>WILLIAM C. POND, D.D.</P>
111.sgm:<P>With Introduction by</P>
111.sgm:<P>PROFESSOR JOHN WRIGHT BUCKHAM, D.D.</P>
111.sgm:<P>of the Pacific School of Religion</P>
111.sgm:<P>Berkeley, California</P>
111.sgm:<P>1921</P>
111.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHTED 1921</P>
111.sgm:<P>BY</P>
111.sgm:<P>WILLIAM C. POND</P>
111.sgm:<P>PRESS OF</P>
111.sgm:<P>THE NEWS PRINTING CO.</P>
111.sgm:<P>OBERLIN, OHIO</P>
111.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>THE romance of the religious history of California does not all lie in the Missions.  A deeper romance attaches to the founders of Protestantism in California.  They were idealists, men of vision, as well as of sterling worth and judgment.  Willey and Benton and Warren and Lacy and Dwinell and Frear and Pond and others were true Pilgrim Fathers of the Pacific, of the same heroic mold and dauntless spirit as the founders of Plymouth.  Of this company the author of this autobiography, though not one of the earliest, was one of the youngest and most alert and the one who has had the longest term of active service--from 1853, the year of his arrival, to the present year--when, at the age of ninety-one, he is still so earnestly engaged in the work of the Oriental missions that with reluctance he has withdrawn from it long enough to complete this story of his life.</P>
111.sgm:<P>It would be difficult to estimate the extent of Dr. Pond's service to the kingdom of God in California.  Besides his pastoral work in four charges, in which he won many an aimless life to Christ and sustained the faith of the wavering, and in addition to his cooperation with his fellow citizens in laying the social and moral foundations of the new state, there are two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>The first of these consisted of the aid which he rendered to Pacific Theological Seminary, now Pacific School of Religion, as a member of its Board of Trustees and its financial representative.  At a time of great depression and disheartenment, when the very life of the institution was in jeopardy, he stood in the breach.  It was not merely the skill and success with which he conducted its financial campaign, but the faith and enthusiasm which he imparted to the institution in a dark hour.  It would perhaps be too much to say that if it had not been for William C. Pond, Pacific Theological Seminary would have gone the way of so many other educational enterprises on the Pacific Coast; but at all events he threw into its life so vital a factor at a critical juncture and did so yeoman a work in its behalf as to link his name with the School in all of its future as one of its truest benefactors to be held in lasting honor.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The other service was in many ways unique and came to him as a call from the Master who is Brother of all.  At a time when the Chinese in San Francisco were friendless, homeless and ill-treated, Dr. Pond took them to his heart, his home and the communion table of his church.  He did this at heavy cost of sacrifice and misunderstanding, in the face not only of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>There is one trait of Doctor Pond which has especially endeared him to many of us, and that is his catholicity and charity of spirit.  In the midst of changing conditions and conceptons he has been deeply concerned lest, in the present-day emphasis upon the social gospel, the power of Christ to transform the individual should be lost to sight.  Yet he has never refused a generous hearing to the honest convictions of another.  He has stood resolutely for freedom of thought and utterance, however much the views expressed might differ from his own.  And when he has stated his own position it has always been in terms as tolerant and full of love as of clarity and force.  In this he has shown the mind of Christ.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Those of us who know and love Dr. Pond will be able to multiply the statements of this modest narrative so as to represent something of the real fruitage of his life and character.  We shall be able also to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>JOHN WRIGHT BUCKHAM.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Pacific School of Religion, July 16, 1921.</P>
111.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>INTRODUCTION<HSEP>iii-vi<LB>TABLE OF CONTENTS<HSEP>7<LB>CHAPTER I.  PERSONAL<HSEP>9<LB>CHAPTER II.  PRIOR IMPRESSIONS CONCERNING CALIFORNIA<HSEP>17<LB>CHAPTER III.  OUR ARRIVAL AND THE DISPOSAL MADE OF US<HSEP>21<LB>CHAPTER IV.  CHANGES OF LOCAL SENTIMENT RESPECTING OUR OWN STATE<HSEP>30<LB>CHAPTER V.  UNION VERSUS UNITY<HSEP>44<LB>CHAPTER VI.  THE GREENWICH STREET CHURCH IN SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>62<LB>CHAPTER VII.  TEN YEARS ON THE FRONTIER<HSEP>69<LB>CHAPTER VIII.  PERILS BY THE WAY<HSEP>87<LB>CHAPTER IX.  THREE YEARS AT PETALUMA (1865-1868)<HSEP>91<LB>CHAPTER X.  THE PACIFIC<HSEP>99</P>
111.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XI.  THE PACIFIC THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY<HSEP>104<LB>CHAPTER XII.  THE ORIENTALS IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>128<LB>CHAPTER XIII.  BETHANY CHURCH<HSEP>146<LB>CHAPTER XIV.  EARLY CONGREGATIONALISM AND SOCIAL QUESTIONS<HSEP>159<LB>CHAPTER XV.  IN CONCLUSION<HSEP>167<LB>CHAPTER XVI.  SUPPLEMENTAL.  THE CHARISMATA: SPIRITUAL GIFTS<HSEP>175<LB>"MY PSALM"--WHITTIER<HSEP>192</P>
111.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<illus entity="a111-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WILLIAM C. POND, AET. 90</P>
111.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>GOSPEL PIONEERING:<LB>Reminiscences of Early Congregationalism in California<LB>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>PERSONAL</P>
111.sgm:<P>I AM a son of Rev. Enoch Pond, D.D., professor and later president of the Bangor Theological Seminary, in Maine.  My mother was Julia Maltby Pond, a sister of Rev. John Maltby, who for almost thirty years was pastor of the Hammond Street Church in Bangor.  I was born February 22, 1830, at Cambridgeport, Massachusetts, but at two years of age removed with the family to Bangor.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Among the vivid recollections of my boyhood is that of being sent to school when three years old.  I am sure of its being at that age, because I distinctly remember that when I became four years old I was admitted to the public school.  None were admitted to a public school before the age of four years.  That early schooling must have impressed me deeply, for I clearly recall the building in which our school occupied a room.  Even the little seat in which I sat, somewhat removed from other seats, I seem to see, and my little self sitting in it.  The name and the face and the gentle spirit of the teacher are still before me, and my victory in learning to read--all these are as vivid in my memory as any minor recollection of later years.</P>
111.sgm:<P>My mother entered Heaven when I was eight years old.  This event had much to do with all that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>I cannot remember the time when, if ever, I was willing to be spoken of as little.  I can almost see my mother's pleasant look when time after time I went to her bedroom as soon as I was dressed and asked, "How old am I?"  "Five years old," was the unfailing reply.  It seemed to me that I should never stop being five years old.  At last the welcomed answer came, "Six years old," and I looked down at my shoes to see if they did not look like those of a big boy.  And from that day I felt wronged if I was classed with little boys.</P>
111.sgm:<P>It seems to me that in that early childhood nothing absorbed my thinking so completely as a looking forward to manhood and planning as to what I should do when I became a man.  One exhibition of this occurred one evening when my mother's maid was passing the room in which I slept and heard me sobbing bitterly.  She hastened to my father's study and told him about it, and he was quickly at my side.  "What is the matter with you, Willie?" he asked, and I managed to say in the midst of my sobs: "I don't want to be a minister!"  My father's reply, "You need not be a minister if you don't wish to," immediately quieted me and I settled down to sleep.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The most far-reaching of all the events of my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>It would seem that in the home, in the prayer-meeting, in the Sunday School, something would certainly be said which would show the way plainly, but when our Sunday School superintendent, who had led many to Christ, pleaded with us to come to the Savior, it meant nothing to me.  I thought of Christ as sitting at God's right hand in some glorious place called Heaven: how could I come to Him?  In Bible terms we were bidden to repent, or to believe in the Lord Jesus Christ, but these expressions meant nothing to me.  I remember that once as I rode my father's horse along the road to bring in our cow from the pasture, I said to myself: "If it were said that by going to Jerusalem I could become a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>I do not remember how long this agony continued within me, but it was approaching winter when, at my daily task in the cellar of cutting up small potatoes for the cow's evening meal, my desperation became conclusive, and I said to myself something like this: "I don't know anything about it, and I can't find out.  If Jesus wants me to be a Christian, He must make me one."  I can now see what I did not see then, that my turning the matter over to Jesus Himself, and my thus reaching out for Him, implied my believing in Him and had in it a real faith, though I did not recognize it at the time.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Two or three days elapsed.  As I looked back upon them, I perceived that my question how to become a Christian was no longer troubling me; indeed, those days had been brightened for me with a peace that was new to me, and I said to myself--the words are distinctly remembered across eighty years--"This is just what people tell about when they become Christians.  I believe that I am a Christian--yes, I am a Christian."</P>
111.sgm:<P>With this there came a decisive change in my outlook upon the future.  It was not long before I went to my father and said, "I want to become a minister," and he gave me his blessing, and from that time my work at school and much that took place outside of both school and home was linked with this one purpose, to become a minister.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Two years elapsed before I united with the church.  During a portion of this period I was beset with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:doubts about almost everything.  I doubted the truth of the Gospel, the possibility of life beyond what we call death, the very existence of God.  There was no conceit in this doubting, and consequently no comfort.  At times the discomfort amounted almost to agony.  I remember distinctly that on returning from school as I walked up one of the hills on which my home is founded, looking at an illfed horse descending the hill with a load of wood pressing upon him.  I envied that horse--actually felt as if I would, if I could, exchange places with him.  But after the decision was made to confess Christ and to unite with His Church, brought face to face with the alternative of believing or of lying and playing the hypocrite, I remember standing under one of the elms in our home grounds and manfully, boy though I was, just facing the doubts.--"What new light have you given me that my believing father has been blind to?  What reasonable ground have I for doubting?  Where are the reasons for doubt which you, a boy, have seen, and your father has not discovered?"  Thus I came to see that I was not even using reason at all.  I was saying to myself over and over and over again, first about one and then about another of the teachings, public and private, of my father, "What if--?"  "What if the Bible is not trustworthy?  What if Jesus was simply a man, or perhaps just the creation of a writer of fiction?  What if there is no God?"  I found that there was no reason, not even an attempt at reasoning in such a "What if," and that I had endured all those deadly doubtings with nothing to base them upon but a silly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>I was graduated from Bowdoin College in 1848, after which I taught one year in Thomaston Academy and spent three years in Bangor Seminary.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Even before my graduation from college this impulse of which I have spoken to peer into my future led me sometimes to nothing better than a mere building of castles in the air, but more often to a serious and prayerful consideration of the two fields, the Home and the Foreign, and of my own adaptedness to one or the other.  In the year spent in teaching, between college and the seminary, it had come to be a settled conviction that Christ was calling me to some foreign work.  There never was with me any glamor about the foreign work.  I loved New England.  I really wanted to live there, work there, die there; but the facts of the case, coolly considered, would not admit of it.  I was not my father's only son, and there was no one dependent upon me, either for sustenance or for companionship, save one, who, dearer to me than life itself, had promised to become my wife, and she from early childhood had looked forward to foreign missionary service with an anticipation of it and a consecration to it which almost amounted to prophecy.  I had a good physical constitution, equal to the endurance of hardships.  I had a fair facility in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>The only deterrent in my heart from the foreign missionary work was this, that I must preach in some other than my native tongue.  From that day to this I have never been able to explain this, unless my Master put it there to determine for me my final decision.  For about two months before my graduation from the Seminary, there appeared in the "Home Missionary" a very urgent appeal for missionaries to California; and I think that scarcely fifteen minutes passed after the reading of that appeal before I said in my heart, "That is a call for me."  All that had made me resolve to be a foreign missionary--the probable encountering of hardship, the distance from the old home, the encountering of physical difficulties such as not all young men could sustain--these existed in regard to California, as we then viewed it, and the preaching would be done in my mother tongue.</P>
111.sgm:<P>All this will be sufficiently amusing in these days in which the world is coming to see in California its very paradise.  But then California was distant from New England, by the healthful and safe route, 17,000 miles.  I sailed that distance in order to get <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>But of this let me speak in a second chapter.</P>
111.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>PRIOR IMPRESSIONS CONCERNING CALIFORNIA</P>
111.sgm:<P>I DESPAIR of success in setting forth these impressions as they remain fact-like and vivid in my own memory--mistaken impressions, without which I would probably never have come here.  Let me fortify what I have to write by this brief quotation from a speech made in the Senate of the United States, about the date at which my purpose was formed to give to this state my life.  The speaker was a man of note in those days, Senator McDuffie of South Carolina.--"Why, sir, of what use will this territory (i.e. California) be for agriculture?  I would not for that purpose give a pinch of snuff for the whole of it!"</P>
111.sgm:<P>Now let my reader conceive of a people whose years, and the years of whose ancestors, had been spent where a month's drought in summer would reduce to despair all thought of a harvest either of fruits or of grains; such a people hearing about a country in which every summer was dry, without rain for six months, and what will they think about it?  To the mass of New England people irrigation was substantially an unknown art.  We might have read of the way in which from prehistoric days Egypt had been made fruitful by the overflow of the Nile; but in this there was no precedent for farming in California, or, so far as we knew, anywhere in the world except Egypt.</P>
111.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>Perhaps not all New England people were as ignorant as I was, but my first happy disappointment as to the land to which I had consecrated my whole life in the service of Christ was in finding the shores on either side of the Golden Gate, as in February we sailed in, dressed in living green, and the next was in finding on the table of the hotel to which we were conducted some fresh radishes.  I said to myself, "These must have grown here; if so, why will not other things grow as well?"</P>
111.sgm:<P>The impression of California character then current in New England may be inferred from the fact that when a prominent Christian man in Bangor, having become financially embarrassed, started for California to recoup his fortunes, another Christian said to me in all soberness, "Don't you think he ought to be subject to church discipline?"--or from the fact that my pastor, who was also my uncle, was reported to have remarked when he heard I was coming here, "If men will go to hell, I don't know how far it is a Christian's duty to follow them!"  I myself had such impressions that, just as if I were going to central Africa, I said to a good friend who was a watchmaker, "Get me a reliable watch; I don't care about the case, but I want good, trustworthy works, for I may be long out of reach of a watchmaker."  And when he came on to New York to see me off, I asked him to purchase for me a trustworthy clock for the same reason.  Even more amusing it may be now, that I said to the dear girl who was to be my wife, "We may be entirely out of reach of any physician, and I never should dare to dose you with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>I will only add that when at length eight of us home missionaries, six for California and two for Oregon, were gathered in New York and ready to sail, a farewell meeting was held for us, as if we were really foreign missionaries.  This meeting was held at the then Fourteenth Street Presbyterian Church, and a charge was given us by its pastor, Rev. Dr. Asa D. Smith, afterwards president of Dartmouth College.  One point in that charge has been in my memory and has fastened itself on my conscience from that day to this: it was, "Give thyself wholly to them" (1 Tim. 4:15), i.e. to the studies and various ministries connected with your calling of God.  He forewarned us that there would probably be laid before us for consideration, by real though mistaken friends, "get-rich-quick" projects of various kinds, but especially in mining for gold, projects sure to make us rich without calling us away at all from pastoral service.  For this appeal, which, as I remember, I somewhat resented at the time as needless and implying suspicion of our full consecration, I have reason to thank both Dr. Smith and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>I am sure that it will be almost impossible for those who arrived in California even but a few years later than I did, and especially those who were born and grew up here, to make real to themselves the possibility that any such thoughts as I have expressed could ever have been cherished concerning the fairest, richest, healthiest, most delightful land that the sun shines upon.  I found, indeed, after my arrival here that some people Eastward had already, even when I was responding in my heart to this appeal, discovered that California had a fertile soil, and in spite of the terrible drought, lasting through half a year, might have opportunities for the farmer as well as the miner.  And in the course of the year, in the spring of which I arrived, convincing and surprising proof of this appeared in potatoes eight inches long and otherwise large in proportion, one of which would be sufficient to offer in portions for a half dozen guests, and in beets even more monstrous.  Experiments were also made in valleys not too far from the ocean in the raising of wheat, with crops in some cases of forty bushels to the acre.  But I have been giving personal reminiscences which, I am quite sure, represent the general thought in New England in 1852 respecting California.</P>
111.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>OUR ARRIVAL AND THE DISPOSAL MADE OF US</P>
111.sgm:<P>IT was on February 23d, 1853, that the good ship "Trade Wind," with 68 passengers on board, was docked at the only wharf in the city front which could accommodate so long a vessel.  This was an extension of Commercial Street, an inside street between Sacramento and Clay, and parallel with them.  It was known as Long Wharf, but I dare say its outmost end was where East Street now runs.  The tradition about it current at that time was that it helped materially to save to San Francisco its commercial supremacy.  This tradition was that after a second fire which swept the site of San Francisco almost clean of its tents and shanties, Benicia believed that it would soon be chosen as the future metropolis.  It was so sure of this, by virtue of its superior advantages, that the price of lots immediately rose, while stricken San Francisco ran out this long wharf, to enable the clippers to discharge their cargoes otherwise than by lighters.  This brought the freight, and of course the business, to the present metropolis.</P>
111.sgm:<P>We had a really delightful voyage on a fine clipper ship built upon a model peculiar to those times and especially for the California trade, a model designed to secure for these ships the utmost speed consistent with safety.  For there were, I suppose, fully 300,000 people in California, and virtually everything <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Our voyage was not destitute of adventure.  One day the cargo of the ship was on fire between decks.  There was no visible flame, only little curls of smoke.  It could easily have been quenched, were it not that the brave sailors who went down to try to remove the freight and reach the source of danger, were overcome by gas and rendered unconscious almost as soon as they went down.  The danger became so imminent that the captain had the boats made ready, and even rafts prepared, so that if, by explosion or otherwise, the ship was rendered helpless, we might take to the open sea for a sail of 400 miles to the nearest shore.  But there was no excitement.  The women addressed themselves to restoring the sailors brought up unconscious, who were no sooner thus recovered than they went bravely back to the deadly task.  The rest of us drew water up the vessel's sides, or did any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>One day in the Straits of Le Maire, between Terra del Fuego and the Falkland Islands, was especially eventful.  We had doubled the Cape, and as it was in January--summer time in that Southern hemisphere--we had read fine print in the twilight of midnight, and now we were in sight of land on both sides of us.  If any one wants to know what a relief and comfort it is to look at land close by, let him be out of sight of it for fifty-two days, as we had been and he will learn what never will be forgotten.  Even now I can see the slopes of the Coast Range on Terra del Fuego, with the snow still lying upon them in the shady spots, and the peaks standing off from each other like two human neighbors sulking--see it as if my sight of it had been gained six months ago instead of seventy years.</P>
111.sgm:<P>We saw a clipper on the other side of the Strait and signalled her.  She did not respond to our signals and thus had the advantage of us.  If she arrived in San Francisco before we did, she could report the ship she had outsailed.  If we came in ahead of her, we did not know whom we had beaten and would be silent about it.  Our ship seemed to be making good time, but our unneighborly neighbor was going ahead of us until it was almost lost in the distance.  But we discovered at length that we were the victims of a tide current making against us, which, however, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>The race with the other clipper did not exhaust the adventures of that day.  In the afternoon my wife and I were sitting in the bow looking out over the sea, watching for the spouting of a whale.  We were rewarded by seeing one some three miles ahead.  Watching for another spout, we saw it not more than a mile ahead.  Watching still, the big ship struck something which shook it from stem to stern.  Passengers came up from the cabin to know whether we had struck a rock.  But it was just the head of that whale, as we knew in an instant, for he threw his immense tail up in the air and disappeared, going down into the depths with a well-settled headache, I ween.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The quickest passage made by any clipper from New York to San Francisco up to the time of our sailing was that of the "Flying Cloud," in eighty-nine days and twenty-three hours.  We wanted to beat her, and were encouraged to think that we might do so, when we found that notwithstanding the delay occasioned by our fire we had made Cape Horn in her time exactly--fifty-one days.  But coming north, we were caught in a storm and had to lie-to for a week, and then in the doldrums (the space near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>These reminiscences of the voyage may not seem to have much to do with the early history of Congregationalism in California.  If I need to apologize for them, lay it to the garrulity of an old fellow who remembers the long past vividly and likes to talk about it, but cannot as well recall the deeds or experiences of the week before last.</P>
111.sgm:<P>It was a goodly company that sailed this way together.  Eight of us were young ministers, the oldest thirty-three, the youngest (myself) twenty-two.  All of us were blessed with wives and two of us with three children each.  Then there was a Christian gentleman who rose to considerable prominence afterwards as a teacher in California; and he had a wife and two children.  Our captain was a modest, earnest Christian, a fine officer and an even finer friend.  We had our regular studies, our Sunday services, our club with its debates, and our weekly newspaper, and last but not least, our games for exercise; so that, forgetting the wretched two weeks spent in getting our sea legs on, I have often felt that if ill health should ever compel me to take my ease and rest for three months or more, I would meet the demand by taking again a voyage around Cape Horn.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I have already said that I was one of a band of eight missionaries.  We were sent out by the American Home Missionary Society, under what was then called the Plan of Union between Congregationalists and Presbyterians of the New School.  I will have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>Before our arrival, the Home Missionary Society had appointed by mail a committee of five pastors, Congregational and New School Presbyterian, Brothers Benton of Sacramento, Hunt and Willey of San Francisco, Warren of Nevada City, and I think, Eli Corwin of San Jose, to advise us as to our locations.  Of all these and of all that group of missionaries, I am now the sole survivor.  I was the youngest among them.  Among pastors already here, Mr. Willey was evidently the leader, partly by formal appointment, for I think that he was the representative of the A.H.M.S. in California, "serving for nothing and finding himself."  I never can forget how he impressed me on my first sight of him, an impression which deepened as I came closer to him through somewhat familiar intercourse.  He had a fine form, tall and straight, surmounted by a fine head, the face gleaming with intelligence and kindliness.  I loved him at first sight, yet stood somewhat in awe of him.  To begin with, he was the pioneer, the old-timer, I the newcomer.  Sixty years did not remove from me this first impression; I the newcomer by his side, he the one that knew, I the one to learn.</P>
111.sgm:<P>This committee lost no time in fulfilling the task assigned them.  We all were eager to get at work, and the expense of keeping us waiting, as prices then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I can even now see Mr. Willey as in giving this advice he named our respective destinations.  Mr. Walsworth was to go to Marysville, Mr. Harmon to Sonora, the county seat of Tuolumne County and still a place of considerable importance; Mr. Bell to Columbia, a mining town, then full of life, now dead.  It was near Sonora, and the wives of these two brethren were sisters.  Mr. Pierpont was to go to Placerville, the county seat and principal city in what was then called the "Empire County," El Dorado.  Mr. Hale was to go to Grass Valley and become a close neighbor of Mr. Warren.  My name came last, and three places were suggested: Coloma, where gold was first discovered, now long dead, or Los Angeles or North San Francisco.  This really meant the point last named, but the appointment was alternative because Rev. Isaac H. Brayton had come to the city a little in advance of us and was considering work in that field.  I was to wait for his decision.  I did thus wait for six weeks, not altogether patiently.  Indeed, at one time I stopped waiting and started for Coloma, spending a Sunday in Sacramento with Brother Benton.  But during that Sunday a rain fell so heavily that the road to Coloma was pronounced to be impassable.  Within twenty-four hours, when for diversion I took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>The irksomeness of this waiting was greatly alleviated by the generous hospitality of an earnest Christian family that had come from my home city of Bangor, and had been so prospered in business that on a hill which then seemed likely to become the court end of the city, they had built its finest residence.  They made my wife and myself their welcome guests, and did not give us a chance to imagine that we were staying too long.</P>
111.sgm:<P>At length the leash was loosened through Mr. Brayton's decision not to undertake the work in San Francisco, and I sprang to it as eagerly as ever a hound for a hunt.  I looked my territory all over, and could find no hall nor even an empty store in which to make my beginning, and there seemed to be nothing to do but to build wherever I could find a site for a chapel or a church.  Only one effort among the many of this sort which in the course of my ministry I have been called to make, equals this in the pleasant recollections with which it enriched me.  Hon. R. H. Waller, Major A. B. Eaton, U.S.A., and S. M. Bowman, Esq., who consented to stand behind this young newcomer as trustees, and to see to it that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"The church was dedicated two and a half months from my first effort in connection with the enterprise, and five weeks from the first stroke of the spade upon its site."</P>
111.sgm:<P>The editorial comment upon it is:  "We do not recall an instance of equal despatch in the erection of a really good church edifice, or one that better illustrates the truth that `where there's a will there's a way.'"</P>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>CHANGES OF LOCAL SENTIMENT RESPECTING OUR OWN STATE, 1853-1855</P>
111.sgm:<P>IT may be that the impressions with which I came, and of which I have spoken, have colored my recollections of the conditions which I found existing on my arrival.  It certainly was the case that some prophetic spirits had already "greeted from afar" what now we realize, and even all that we foresee.  But certainly that which confronted me at first was the absence of any adequate conception of the part which California was to play in the world's future.  In the first place, few, very few, among those whom I met had any intention or thought of remaining here.  It seems to me that when a stranger was introduced to me, or I to him, conversation always began in this way: "How do you do, sir?  Happy to see you; where do you come from?  How long are you going to stay?"--And vivid before me still is the picture of the eyes opening with surprise when I replied, "As long as I live, sir."  A state made up almost wholly of people eager to "make a pile and go home" could have little love from its inhabitants, little <HI REND="italics">esprit de corps</HI>
111.sgm:, little outlook ahead, and a careless estimate, if any estimate at all was attempted, of its possible future.  A marked change of outlook took place that first year.  San Francisco began to loom up in the thought of the people.  I remember vividly a lecture by Rev. Dr. Speer, a returned missionary from South <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Then the permanent agricultural resources of the state were beginning to be realized.  When I came, the basis of everything financial in the state was the gold mines; but before even my first year was spent, the wealth of golden grain was coming slowly into view.  I have already referred to El Dorado County as having the title of the "Empire County."  If this expression was used as to political or any other conditions, it was as distinctly understood to refer to El Dorado County as the same term used respecting a state is still understood to mean New York.  Legislation was controlled here, so far as necessary, in the interest of miners and mining.  No such law as that which has closed most profitable hydraulic mining in the interest of agriculture, would have been proposed, much less considered and passed, in those early days.</P>
111.sgm:<P>But a new view, the now controlling view, began to be discussed.  The transitoriness of the mines, with the probability of their being worked out, was assumed.  But the future of the state, as founded on its agricultural possibilities, especially in view of adequate irrigation, brightened our eastern sky and led on towards a settled population and a substantial growth.</P>
111.sgm:<P>This led to a new sense of political responsibility.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:The method of voting at that time invited fraud.  I went to the polls and after standing in line a good while announced my name and it was written down.  Then, unless some one challenged my vote, it was deposited.  This gave abundant scope for the appeal, "Vote early; vote <HI REND="italics">often</HI>
111.sgm:<P>As early as 1854 people began to care.  The Democratic Party's nominations were supposed to be equivalent to an election, and the party consequently became utterly corrupt, so that the people, thoroughly aroused, threw it out and elected the candidates of a new party known by the name of the "Know Nothings."  It was in some degree a secret society, and in its conclaves it provided for such watchfulness at the polls and such carefulness in the countings as gave them the victory.  And the state made a step forward which has never been retraced.</P>
111.sgm:<P>This new outlook for the state led to a new interest in education.  My earliest recollection of public school work in San Francisco gathers about Col. T. J. Nevin, a Congregational Christian who, when I began my services in San Francisco, surprised me by appearing in the congregation and undertaking to build up a Bible class there.  He had some peculiarities, which weighed too much with me, and I did not esteem him as I now do.  But his heart was set on providing education for the children--few indeed, then, in San Francisco.  The state had very large resources for this purpose in land given it by the national <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I have found in the "Home Missionary" of May, 1854, an appeal written by myself but signed by a committee of the presbytery (New School) and the association, which seems to me to set forth quite clearly and vividly the views and aspirations to which we had come at that date, and with which I conclude this survey of what I may call the social, moral, and political environment in which Congregationalism was beginning its work in California, except so far as these views may appear in the story of subsequent years:</P>
111.sgm:<P>"San Francisco, Jan. 31st, 1854.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"To the Executive Committee of the American Home Missionary Society:</P>
111.sgm:<P>"The undersigned, at a joint meeting of the Presbytery of San Francisco and the Congregational Association of California, were appointed a Committee to lay before you facts relating to the destitution of this state, and the claims which it presents upon your continued benevolence.  They have consented to discharge this duty, not because they have ever discovered in your counsels anything bearing even the appearance of a disposition to ignore those claims.  They would do injustice to their own and to the universal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"In endeavoring to present to you these facts, we feel embarrassed by a consciousness that our knowledge is very incomplete.  Only a few of them, probably, compared with the whole number actually existing, have ever come within the range of our ascertainment.  For they must come to us; except in rare cases we cannot go after them.  Burdened, to the full extent of our strength and time, in our particular and immediate fields of labor, it is impossible for us to act as explorers and pioneers.  And it is so easy for even truly Christian men in California, breathing its atmosphere of worldliness, to forget temporarily their higher interests; and they are so generally undetermined to make this state, and still more, any particuular locality in the state, a home, that nowhere, perhaps, in our whole land, are such explorations so necessary as here, if we would learn truly and fully the extent and pressure of its destitutions.  While, then, we tell you what we know, we would assure you of the probability, amounting almost to a certainty, that there is a great deal more which we do not know; for the intelligence which comes to us, comes in such a way as to provoke the frequent exclamation, `What shall we hear next?"</P>
111.sgm:<P>"It is but a short time since one of our brethren was surprised by an application from the town of Petaluma to come and organize there a Congregational Church.  He went, organized a church of twelve excellent members, and is of opinion that a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"We mention these things simply to show how such intelligence comes to us; while, from our knowledge of California and Californians, we know that those places of which we hear may not be the most necessitous, but that in other places there may be, though we know it not, even a greater number of the sheep now sinking into deadly slumbers, whom the voice of a shepherd would arouse and gather into a fold and make to become richly productive for the Kingdom of their Saviour.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"The area of this state is about 180,000 square miles.  Connected with the denominations which are associated in your society there are, all told, fifteen ministers in active service.  That is, we have one minister on the average to 12,000 square miles, an area larger than the whole state of Vermont.  In the southern part of the state there is an area of counties consecutively adjacent amounting to 70,000 square miles, and larger, therefore, than all New England, in all of which there is not a single minister of those denominations in active service.  At the north there is a district as large and in the same destitute condition.  And even through the center of the state are seven extensive counties in the same situation.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Nor are these extensive regions deserts in any sense of the term.  Not only are they capable of sustaining a population, they are actually being populated.  Many of these counties contained, according to the census of 1852, a population of from six to ten thousand each.  Some of the important agricultural and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"In the northern district mentioned is the important seaport Cresent City, a place which has been very rapidly increasing in importance.  A minister should have been there before this time.  It is the only convenient outlet to a considerable region rich both in mineral and agricultural resources; and its permanency and continued growth are deemed unquestionable by all those who are acquainted with it.  A steamer has for several months been plying between that port and this, sustained by the trade of that port alone; and by a recent act of our legislature that town is made the county seat of Klamath County.  The region around Humboldt Bay should also receive at once the attention of a laborious, energetic, and persevering man.  It is a station where hard work would be called for and would be rewarded.  There are already two or three towns of importance.  A newspaper has recently been started at one of them, depending on the population for its support.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"But throughout the more thickly settled center of the state destitutions are even more numerous.  In Tuolumne County two men are imperatively needed.  In a population of at least 20,000 Rev. Mr. Harmon is laboring alone.  At Murphy's, a very important town containing a population of at least 2,000, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"In Calaveras County, in the midst of a mountain region rich in gold, is a valley whose picturesque beauty and evident and tested fruitfulness charm every visitor.  It is called Ione Valley.  It is destined to be a rich agricultural district, and will have the best of markets close at hand.  A permanent population is gathering rapidly upon it, and a town of some importance already exists.  Those brethren who have visited it express themselves very strongly as to the importance of at once stationing a minister there.  Without a doubt a church might almost immediately be gathered.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Placer and Sierra Counties, containing together a population, according to the last census, of 15,639, and having the important mining centers Ophir, Auburn and Downieville, each of which places would furnish abundant work for one man, are without a single laborer.  El Dorado County, with a population of 40,000, has but one.  Georgetown, Diamond Springs and Mud Springs are all places of size and note, and are destitute.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"It would be to trespass too much upon your valuable time to mention all points of importance which we might mention, or to say in regard to these all that might be said.  We know not what other opportunities a diligent exploration might bring to light.  But in regard to the places which we have mentioned, we can say this confidently that in no part of the Atlantic States with which we are acquainted would such openings be allowed to remain unentered.  They are posts of labor too important and too promising to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"We do not ask for great scholars, though the more of scholarship men have the better, here as elsewhere.  The case demands men of piety, of energy and of common sense; men who will exhibit these qualities both in the pulpit and out of it.  And if there are such men to be had and they want fields where their devotion and their energy and their tact will be tested--fields, too, where their labors will be crowned with speedy and increasing usefulness--let them come to California.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"We feel deeply that it would be in your hearts to give us all that the case demands.  We have had proof that we need to use no pleading with you; and we know and think we fully appreciate the fact that the ready heart and the open hand cannot always go together.  That you have a large field to cultivate, that from various quarters of our country appeals like this are reaching you continually, and that you often pray for more laborers in so great a harvest we are sure.  And that the very heavy draft which a few laborers make on your treasury is a special obstacle in the way of your work upon this coast, this too we feel.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"In attempting to remove this obstacle, we are not at all disposed to copy the example of those who, in attempting to benefit California, have done her so vital an injury by sending to the East highly inflated accounts of what could be done here in furnishing the needful funds.  We have reason to be grateful that the officers of the American Home Missionary Society have never been thus led astray.  <HI REND="italics">We will do what we can</HI>
111.sgm:.  We shall be able, if God prospers us as He has done, to do considerable.  In a country where everything is so changeable, it is difficult to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"But to us in the midst of the field, it seems very evident that the addition of so large and so important a region to the sphere of labor of the American Home Missionary Society ought to be the signal for a large increase of its revenue.  The churches have the opportunity of erecting through your agency a Christian state on the shores of the Pacific.  It has cost nearly nine hundred thousand dollars in more than thirty years to make a Christian nation of the Sandwich Islanders.  The money and the time are not to be mentioned in comparison with the achievement.  But we will venture the prediction altogether fearlessly that if the Christian public will act energetically and pray earnestly for California, they will have a Christian nation here for a fourth that sum in a fourth of that time, which will exert ten times the influence for Christianity which those Islands now do.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"We institute the comparison, not for the sake of disparaging the achievement which has lately been announced; far from it.  None hailed the announcement with more joy than we; and if it had cost nine hundred <HI REND="italics">millions</HI>
111.sgm:, instead of thousands, it would still have been infinitely worth more than its price.  But we would have the work which is going on in this land viewed in its true light.  It is really, even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"And it is for the churches of the East to bring this to pass or not.  It does seem to us in the midst of our toils joyous beyond expression--save in the view, continually thrust before us, of priceless opportunities gliding by with none to grasp them--that the churches at home with a privilege before them like that which this country is presenting, must grasp it and fill your treasury and bid you thrust the laborers upon the field.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Let no one think California is safe.  <HI REND="italics">She is not safe</HI>
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111.sgm:<P>"If it were necessary, we might mention several peculiarities of this field which entitle it in justice to a large share in the charities of the East.  The contributors to the American Home Missionary Society are getting rich from California.  Wages are rising; produce sells at a higher rate; and the production and consumption of California are the cause of it.  Many of your merchants live in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, but do business here and enjoy Californian profits; and if they occasionally experience Californian losses, they are nevertheless growing rich from California.  Indeed, it is a common assertion that only California gold has saved our country from a widespread bankruptcy.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"But with such facts as these, you, gentlemen, are familiar.  We pray you to do for us all that you can.  Without a reinforcement equal at least to that which arrived last spring, the cause must suffer very much; unless Christians at the East sustain you in such an arrangement, it seems to us certain that they will fail decidedly to meet the demands of their Master upon them.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"With much gratitude and respect,</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Yours in the Gospel,</P>
111.sgm:<P>"WM. C. POND,</P>
111.sgm:<P>"S. S. HARMON,</P>
111.sgm:<P>"J. G. HALE, "Committee of the Association and Presbytery."</P>
111.sgm:<P>To this appeal the following response was made:</P>
111.sgm:<P>"The views expressed in the foregoing communication accord with those of the Executive Committee, and only strengthen their convictions of the importance of this missionary field.  The past strange history of this new state, its present prosperity and prospective growth, the energetic but reckless character of its population, its commanding position in reference to the heathen world, all point to the missionary work <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"In this appeal they hear the voice of the great Captain of their salvation summoning His people to go up and possess the land.  Encouraged by past success, and in confident reliance upon the liberal support of the churches, they propose to make a favorable response to this call."</P>
111.sgm:<P>I am confident that two paragraphs in my manuscript were omitted in the publication of this appeal.  One of them related to San Francisco and its harbor and its great commercial future; the other to its future as an educational center for the world.  Of course I cannot repeat word for word what I wrote; but I remember saying that in view of the climate, the location midway between the Occident and the Orient, and the wealth which would be accumulated here, a generous share of which would go to sustain educational institutions, there would arise around this Bay universities that in their youth would rival the oldest and richest in the world.  The former paragraph may have been omitted as unnecessary, the latter as too visionary.  I myself do not expect to live to see that vision even approaching fulfilment.  I do remember that somewhere in the appeal I affirmed that the time was surely coming when not New York but California would be the "Empire State" in our Union--which also was omitted perhaps as too incredible.  But I believed it then and I believe it now.  Indeed, no one with open eyes can doubt it.</P>
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111.sgm:<P>I realize full well how different would now be the impression as to points which should be occupied, from that presented in this appeal.  Of the thirteen towns mentioned, only four are now occupied, and of the nine others there is not one for which an appeal would now be made.  But what I have been endeavoring in this chapter to set forth, is not things as they now are, but as they were, or seemed to be, seventy years ago.  My impression is that at that time Los Angeles and San Diego would have been the last ones provided for.</P>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>UNION VERSUS UNITY</P>
111.sgm:<P>UNION and unity are not synonymous terms.  It was unity that Jesus prayed for.  Unity is vital and spiritual.  Union may be only artificial and superficial.  When unity develops union by a natural, spontaneous growth, taking it on as a body made alive by the one Spirit within, then union is most desirable and beautiful and practical; but when union is brought to pass by diplomatic manipulations, when it is held together by mutual contracts, mutual material interests, carefully drawn compromises in doctrine or in plans of action, then is it often poisonous to unity, developing debates, dissensions, excisions.  And it is because some of my reminiscences illustrate this that I have entitled this chapter Union <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
111.sgm:<P>Let me not be misunderstood.  Unity is not uniformity.  It is almost the antipodes of uniformity.  Harmony is not monotony.  Unity in diversity is a law of divine operation in both God's physical and His spiritual realms.  The rich music of the forest swayed by the wind is a combination of the notes of each several leaf.  And the music of the spheres is that of even apparently counteracting forces operating together for one great end.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The Church of Christ is His body, not the corpse of a dead Saviour, but the body of one alive and life-giving evermore.  But it is not one member, as Paul so significantly teaches us, but many; and each one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I have referred several times in previous chapters to the fact that Presbyterians (New School) were connected with us under a "Plan of Union."  Both this expression, "New School" and the existence of this "Plan of Union," may belong to a history now too ancient to be familiar to a majority even of my brethren in the ministry, and I venture to explain them.  This "Plan of Union" dates back more than one hundred and fifty years.  It was in 1766 that the Presbyterian Synod (no General Assembly having yet been created) and the General Association of Connecticut agreed to meet in an annual convention in order to unite their endeavors to "spread the Gospel and preserve the religious liberties of the churches."</P>
111.sgm:<P>This continued until, in the dark days of the war with the mother country, these gatherings became almost impossible; but in 1792 the Union was renewed, and since a General Assembly had now come into existence, it took a more definite form in what might be called a diplomatic agreement, first with the General Association of Connecticut, and afterwards <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>But this commingling of Congregational blood wrought dissension among the Presbyterians.  The Westminster Confession and Catechism could not be accepted by a large proportion of the pastors, especially in New York and the states west of it, except "for substance of doctrine," and much of their preaching, aimed as it was at leading sinners to repentance, had to tone down the ultra-Calvinistic doctrines respecting election and reprobation as elements in the Divine sovereignty, till they were in clear contravention of the wording, if not the "substance of doctrine," of the standards.  Albert Barnes in Philadelphia and Lyman Beecher in Cincinnati were arraigned before their presbyteries and deposed, but afterwards were reinstated upon appeal to the General Assembly.</P>
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111.sgm:<P>At length, in the General Assembly of 1837, the Conservatives, finding themselves a majority, small but solid, at one fell stroke, in the interest doubtless of truth and for the glory of Christ (!), exscinded three synods in New York and one in Ohio, virtually excommunicating the whole membership; and when in the next year these synods, elders and all, in rebellion against this lawless despotism appeared by their commissioners at the General Assembly, they were refused admission.  And so it came to pass that another Presbyterian Church appeared, composed of these exscinded synods and others who sympathized with them.  If I remember correctly, this body called itself "The Constitutional Presbyterian Church," but it was popularly known as the "New School," whence the other party came to be known as "Old School"; and so in the little villages of the West you would find two Presbyterian churches where one could scarcely live, utterly out of fellowship with each other.</P>
111.sgm:<P>And here in passing let me say that in all this we have an illustration of the truth set forth in the title to this chapter, larger and sadder than any which my reminiscences can give.  But these later and lesser ones are also worth studying.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The "Old School" Assembly broke away from the already ancient Plan of Union.  The "New School" body adhered to it, and did its foreign missionary work with us through the American Board, and its work in our own country through the American Home Missionary Society.  Accordingly the General Association of California and the body known as the New School Presbytery held their annual meetings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>One could hardly conceive of a <HI REND="italics">plan</HI>
111.sgm:<P>Yet it was a recent tradition in 1853, and one never denied at that time, that when a representative of the A.H.M.S. went to San Jose to organize a church, he found a body of New England Congregationalists there and that they proposed to make it Congregational.  He labored with them long, saying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>As I look back on that first of my service in the ministry, I am surprised that no break in the apparent unity took place, notwithstanding such occurrences of which I have just now written.  For in the East the discussion of our mutual relations, in view of the fact that in the work of the Home Missionary Society it was found that two-thirds of the funds came from Congregational sources and two-thirds went to Presbyterian undertakings, and in view of other facts to which I will soon allude, had become, while always courteous, decidely warm.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Some pastors and laymen living in New York and the states west of it, made the discovery to which New England Congregationalists had somehow been blinded, that their polity was worthy to be upheld, and among these were Henry C. Bowen, a prominent merchant of New York, and Rev. J. C. Holbrook of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I remember reading the first issue of this paper and being captivated by it.  I remember also that the first article on the first page was always signed by the initials J. C. H.  There was a frankness and courage, as well as candor and clearness, about these articles which caused them to be invariably the first ones read by me.  As I remember them, they all centered in this one claim, the right of a minister to be a Congregationalist and to stand for Congregationalism in what was then called the Far West, and the right <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>It was a real revolution which was thus produced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I said above that considering this aroused sentiment among Congregationalists in the East, I am surprised that no break occurred in our union or our seeming unity, in view of such contraventions as I referred to of the unwritten but real agreement between the two parties in the "Plan of Union."  Being in San Francisco, I probably should have discovered a rising discontent, if any had existed, in Congregational quarters.  Indeed, it is a surprise to me now in looking back to realize that even so staunch and ardent a Congregationalist as I had come to be was undisturbed by them.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I remember, however, being sternly rebuked by the pastor of the church in San Jose, himself afterwards a zealous Congregationalist, because as correspondent of our Boston weekly I had referred to the strange state of things here--a Presbyterian church with no session and no relation to the Presbytery.  As to myself, I can with absolute truthfulness affirm that I was careful to do what seemed to me to be honorable under the Plan of Union.  Although both of the churches which I organized before we were set free <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I remember with undying interest the first meeting of our Association which I attended.  It was held at Nevada City, and almost all, perhaps all, of our ministers were present.  The journey was a long one.  We left San Francisco by steamboat in the afternoon and reached Sacramento the next morning.  We staged it from there to Nevada City, about ninety miles.  The first thirty or more were across the Sacramento Valley, as yet unbroken by the plough.  The abundant rains that had flooded the valley in the winter had left the soil in good condition for the production of its native flowers.  The surface was not flat but wind blown through the years into low and long ridges; so that, as I looked out over the expanse from the top of the stage, they seemed like the waves of a flowery sea.  I think I have never since seen anything of the sort quite so beautiful.  No desert land was that.  Ascending at length the foothills, and ever and anon invited to walk out of pity for weary steeds, I saw here and there a miner with his cradle and his pan practising the infant art which by and by I was to see turning the course of rivers, piercing the mountains, bringing low high hills with the tremendous force of the water brought from far and dropping ninety feet or more.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Nevada City interested me greatly.  It is an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>The next gathering of ministers of these two denominations thus (one would say) happily yoked together, which has left any special reminiscence with me, had for its intent the beginning of practical endeavors for the establishment of a Christian college, the very one which at length developed into the College of California and was afterwards transferred to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>We continued to hold these joint meetings and to ratify the action taken at them at separate meetings without further discussion till 1860, when a discussion arose respecting the American Home Missionary Society, of which no trace appears in the minutes, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"Whereas, there is in California a great and pressing need of ministers of the Gospel, and</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Whereas, our chief help in times past for their supply and support has been the A.H.M. Society, and</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Whereas, we have still mainly to rely upon that Society in the future for assistance, therefore</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Resolved, that California owes to the American Home Missionary Society a debt which will bind us to it with tenderest ties:</P>
111.sgm:<P>"2.  That we feel perfectly satisfied with its catholic basis of operation, its impartial and even-handed distribution of funds among us as committed to its care, and its capacity to meet all the needs of a Home Missionary Society in this state; and we cordially commend it to our churches and people as worthy of entire confidence and hearty support."</P>
111.sgm:<P>Such a report read now sixty-one years after its adoption, certainly looks harmless enough.  Possibly, however, even now one scrutinizing it carefully would see in its preamble a recital of facts so manifest as scarcely to need assertion, and even to suggest that the gratitude expressed was of the sort defined as "a lively sense of favors yet to come."  Then, studying its resolutions one possibly would feel a certain strong, emphatic pulse which the subject matter hardly justifies.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The fact is that the report was the outcome of a long and warm debate in which we Congregationalists affirmed unanimously the facts stated in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>We had our usual joint meetings on Sunday, not for business but for worship and preaching, and assembled on Monday, each body by itself, to complete the business.  While this was going on in our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I suppose that New School Presbyterian churches were still aided by the A.H.M.S. till 1869, when the schism ceased and the New School and Old School bodies came together, agreeing to prosecute their missionary work both Home and Foreign through the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>A few words more respecting the bearing of this unity through liberty upon the meetings of our General Association, now better named our State Conference.  One thing that I observed with surprise at the very beginning of this close reunion with our Presbyterian brethren was the apparent amusement with which in talking about recent meetings of Presbytery or Synod they would tell how some brother <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>It is not because we have been better men, more peaceable and courteous than our neighbors, far otherwise; but because we have a better system, the very life-blood of which is in the ancient saying, "In essentials unity, in non-essentials liberty, and in all things charity."  We exercise no lordship over one another; we differ, discuss, resolve, but never with the whip-hand in any one's possession, or even in that of the Conference itself.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The present outreach for union of Christians of every sort in one ecclesiastical organization is blind to the lessons of the past, and not attent to the teachings of the New Testament.  It was not such a union that Christ prayed for.  He prayed for <HI REND="italics">unity</HI>
111.sgm:, and to this we are approaching like different divisions in one great army of the Lord, not required to call any man master, but dwelling and working each in the place and the way appointed him by the indwelling Lord, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Since writing the above, my eye has fallen upon the following testimony from our first and truly great pioneer, Rev. A. J. Benton, D.D., given at the meeting of our General Association in 1870:</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Our Congregationalism has proven itself a polity promotive of harmony and good will.  It has here felt no quarrel.  It has produced no unpleasant frictions.  It has been disturbed by no jealousies.  It has witnessed none but the most generous rivalries.  Not a harsh measure has been adopted.  Not a single unkind word has been spoken.  Not an unworthy feeling has been indulged.  Nowhere has a root of bitterness been planted.  Each has given the other his liberty and has greatly enjoyed his own.  Simple loyalty to the Master and sympathy for the cause have been the chains of gold which have bound ministers and members and churches together; and, so tied, they are still working on harmoniously toward the glorious hopes of all Christendom."</P>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>THE GREENWICH STREET CHURCH IN SAN FRANCISCO</P>
111.sgm:<P>CHAPTER III. closed with an account of the beginning of the work assigned to me and the erection and dedication of the house of worship which came to be known as "The Greenwich Street Church."  A recital of the reminiscences which cluster about it would perhaps not seem to be important enough to be given here, were it not that it exemplifies one marked phase of early church history in California.  From this one you may learn the fortunes not of all but of many of our undertakings, in seeking to establish here the kingdom of God.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I had, in my simplicity, and in accordance with all that I had known respecting the organization of new churches in New England cities, supposed that when the edifice was ready for occupancy, if not before that, I should learn of a colony, large or small, going with me as a nucleus; at any rate, if I was to be a sort of Moses, I would have an Aaron and a Hur.  Accordingly I went to the brother who doubtless suggested that this field should be occupied, and whose church would naturally count any church that I might gather, as its first-born child, to ask who were going with me into the new work.  The reply was, "I don't know of any one.  You will have to do as the rest of us have done."  This was conclusive, but it was not quite true; for he himself, whether sent for, as some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Another excuse for some dismay transpired during that first week after that really triumphal dedication service.  I began at once a canvass of the field.  If I must hunt up my material, I must do it at once, for it would break the spell badly and almost doom the enterprise if for my first regular service I should have no audience.  So with all speed I made my way from house to house, only to come to the end of the week with the conviction that at least four-fifths of our neighbors could not speak English, while I could speak nothing else.  Also the very great majority of the residents in that part of the city were Romanists.  I remember, however, that I cheered myself with the thought that Christ sent me there and would certainly stand by me.  I remember also the word of great cheer that came to me from Major Eaton, saying, "I shall be there," although I knew that it probably would be only for that Sunday.  If I remember correctly, sixty persons were present, and I felt that the first crisis had been successfully passed.  A Sunday School was organized immediately after the morning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Of course we were dependent on the American Home Missionary Society for almost all the income, and in those days the "cost of living," with flour at $10.00 for a sack of fifty pounds, and other things (except salmon!) in proportion, and with the rent of five small rooms whose walls were of cotton cloth covered with flimsy wall paper, accounted low at $60 per month, a pastor had to economize closely to live on $200 per month.  But there came among us very soon a noble Christian, a retired sea-captain, who had engaged in the sale of bricks, and as a boom in building permanent business structures had now broken out in San Francisco, he was doing a large and very profitable business.  From the day on which he joined the church, he put his very life-blood into it; and when, much less than a year after the enterprise was started, he heard that we were dependent on a missionary society, he declared that this must not be.  "I am going to take it off from that society," he said, and he did it at an expense to himself of $125.00 per month.  In that same year a parsonage was built on the rear of the church lot, to be paid for in installments of $75.00 per month, and in the next year the leased lot, for which, however, thanks to the third gentleman in my board of trustees, Mr. S. M. Bowman, we were charged only the nominal sum of $1.00 per annum, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>There were thus for us two happy, growing, fruitful years, till one morning San Francisco was startled, and for the time almost benumbed, by the news that the great banking firm of Page, Bacon &amp; Co. had closed its doors.  It was a stroke such as never before or since that day any infant city of (say) 50,000 people has had to endure.  This bank had been shipping to New York each fortnight from $2,500,000 to $3,000,000 worth of gold dust, more than twice as much as all other banks combined.  It had the unlimited confidence of the whole State.  Every other bank in the city also closed its doors, though three of them opened again in two days.  Several never opened again, among these two savings banks into which many wage earners had been pouring their savings.  There seemed to be a complete break-down of mutual confidence.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
111.sgm: Building ceased.  A large majority of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">Out of 1,000 business houses, 300 failed.  There were 197 petitions of insolvency.--Atherton's "Intimate History of California," p. 171.</NOTE>
111.sgm:<P>I had long realized that I was not doing such work as I came to California to do.  I saw that a large proportion of the attendants on our services came past other churches to get to us, that almost any young man not favored as I was for pioneer work could have done what I was doing, and I was sustained in occupying a place so comfortable and so much "like home" only by the fact that I had heard in the advice of that committee the voice of the Lord.  It may be that I acted rashly, without due consultation with others or due waiting on the Lord, but before I reached home that evening, my mind was made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I recommended that the church be dissolved, its property sold, its little debt of $800 be paid and the balance restored to the A.H.M.S.  But the brother who was then the agent of that society protested.  According to statements made to me by the few who still clung to the hope that the church could recover its strength, this brother told them that he would see that they had pastoral care, and that if he could not be with them himself he would surely send a suitable substitute.  They were led to expect that he would himself be with them quite regularly.  He did preach for them on one Sunday.  The next Sunday, without sending the substitute or giving them any notice of his own absence, he accepted an invitation to supply another church, and the little company came together to wait in vain and then disperse.  Thus deserted, the church at length died, and some years after, I met the debt through a compromise settlement, by paying $250 from my own slender purse.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Disappointments substantially similar to this have occurred again and again in the history of our Congregational church, and equally in those of other denominations.  Men whose presence and influence led to the founding of these churches "went home" (the term used for a return to the East), or else caught what was called a "fever" (the "Frazer river fever" or the "Washoe fever" or some other one which raged less fiercely or on a smaller domain and thus failed to become historical), and were off to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>TEN YEARS ON THE FRONTIER</P>
111.sgm:<P>AS SOON as it became known that I was leaving San Francisco and desired to go to the frontier and the mines, I received from my ship-mate and dear friend, Rev. John G. Hale, of Grass Valley, a letter in which he called my attention to Downieville, forty miles beyond Nevada City, north-easterly.  It was the county seat of Sierra County, which, though small in area, was then, perhaps, the largest gold-producing county in the State.  It was studded with mining camps, several of which, by virtue of their size and amount of business and probable permanency, deserved to be regarded not as camps but as towns.  Downieville was situated at the forks of the North Fork of the Yuba river, itself a branch of the Feather river, which in turn was a branch of the Sacramento.  The bed of this stream and of its branches had been exceedingly rich in gold, and so had also been the flats made by it, as it raced along in its crooked defile in the deepest canyon of the Sierra Nevada.  Mr. Hale knew of one or two Christian men living there who, he believed, would welcome me and coo&die;perate with me.  He finally proffered, if I would visit the place, to go with me, provided I would come and do a Sunday's preaching for him.  I welcomed the suggestion, fulfilled the conditions, and on Monday morning we started.  The journey was by stage to Forest City, a village of Sierra County, from which Downieville was, even by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>The rate of travel was such that I had plenty of time to study not only the country, but what was more to my purpose, the men in it.  I was particularly observant of a Methodist minister stationed at Forest City, whose ways of approaching men and talking with them, of being at home with them, divesting himself of the professional and the ecclesiastical, were better for me than many a seminary lecture on the minister as a man among men.  We went purposely incognito, and I never had a chance to thank him for the lessons I received.</P>
111.sgm:<P>After spending the night at Forest City, we concluded to foot it to Downieville.  We might have gone on an express (mule), train, but the charges were steep and we verily thought that we could outtravel the train.  It was a memorable walk, with abundant experience, which we might have escaped but rather coveted, of making a pathless tramp through the chapparal, the result of which was that I entered the town, which was to be my home, with pantaloons so torn that it was quite a relief to find, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>After getting well rested, Mr. Hale commenced his return to Grass Valley, and somewhat stirring events followed.  On Friday afternoon, in the largest and finest gambling house, a professional gambler shot a respected miner, killing him instantly.  The miner was not himself a gambler, but it was often necessary for a man to enter a gambling house in order to find the men he wished to do business with.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>The next morning the town was so crowded that one could hardly move in the narrow streets.  I stood on a wine box at the very street corner at which the saloon stood in which the murder took place, and after prayer and the reading of Scripture I raised the question, Who is responsible for such a tragedy as this?  I spoke calmly but frankly, and arraigned the dispensers of "fire water" and the promoters of such amusements as started hot blood, and finally said that, speaking in ignorance of the conditions in this community in which I was an utter stranger, and accusing none, yet speaking what would be pertinent and timely in a certain community with which I was well acquainted, I would affirm that if there was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>This caused me at the outset of my work to be dubbed "The mob-law minister."  Arrangements were made for me to preach in the evening in an unfinished and weather-beaten building designed for a church, but now used as a hall for some lodges.  It was seated as lodge rooms generally are, with benches along the sides and a broad open space in the center.  When I reached the place I was surprised to find every seat occupied.  On going to the platform and facing the audience, my eyes fell upon a man sitting on the front seat half way towards the other end of the room.  To this day I do not know what there was in the pale face, or those keen blue eyes or that almost colorless hair, to hold my gaze, but it was held, and so strongly that now after more than sixty years I see him there.  I came afterwards to know that he was the managing partner in that large gambling room in which the murder was committed, and, I believe, the political boss of the county.  And with this information came the additional statement that he had said that he was going to that meeting and "If that fellow gets off any more of such stuff I will shoot him."  It was probably to this that I owed the presence of the crowd.  What I might have done, young-blooded as I was, if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>The Mr. Langton of whom I have spoken, and who owned most of the "express" mule trains centering in Downieville, gave me the great help of a free pass in visiting some important mining towns in the northern part of the county, all of which I hoped to reach with some healthful moral influence and with the saving gospel of Christ.  And I made my way back to San Francisco, attended the sessions of the Association and Presbytery, and as soon as possible afterwards my wife and I, with the good motherly wife of that one of my deacons who was going to Oroville but had most kindly decided to go instead with us to Downieville, started for our new field and home.  I look back upon that journey with admiration for those two ladies.  The steamer to Marysville was comfortable, the stage ride from there to Camptonville was endurable, the mule ride of twenty miles from Camptonville to Downieville, upon a rough, narrow trail, on which at scores of points a mule's misstep would mean a fatal fall,--made by ladies neither of whom ever before had sat on a saddle, and this without a murmur either on the way or afterwards,--it meant for me Christian <HI REND="italics">heroism</HI>
111.sgm:.  We all three became well used to this is the years following, and the mule that in most quarters has an ill name which he does not deserve, became to us an object of sincere respect, I might almost add, of real affection, so careful they were, so sure-footed, so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>We had sent on ahead our furniture, including a piano, and our stores for full four months, and when we reached the place it had arrived and had been stored for us in a little three-roomed cottage on a rather roomy flat made long ago by a tremendous slide from the steep and lofty bank, and already for some reason dubbed by the town as "Piety Flat."  I started out at once to find larger quarters, but when I returned, disgusted at my failure, I found that my two ladies had taken possession and were already unpacking the goods.  So I submitted with what grace I could command, and we lived in peace and comfort, two families in three rooms, till I could build my home on a portion of the flat to which I was able to get some sort of a title, and my good deacon did the work and then built for himself, next door.</P>
111.sgm:<P>We found on this flat an octagonal structure, the walls about eighteen feet high, which had just been put up and had been dubbed "The Downieville Amphitheater."  In this, it had been advertised that there would be on the next Sunday afternoon a bull and California lion fight.  The proprietor welcomed his new neighbors very cordially and remarked to me that he wished he had known we were coming, for he would have brought along another bull and given the church a benefit!  On Sunday morning we repaired to the old hall of which I have spoken, and I conducted my first regular service.  There was no such crowd as I saw on the previous occasion; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Meanwhile a group of Christian men had come to see us and to bid us welcome.  The piano had been set up and was found to be in perfect tune, notwithstanding its long, rough ride.  We had books enough for all our callers, and we sang together the dear old familiar hymns, till our little house was surrounded by men listening, possibly some of them with moistened eyes.  I preached also in the evening, but to a still smaller congregation.  On the next Sunday we moved to quarters more snug and cozy, the office of the justice of the peace, who was a Methodist church member and willing so far to help us, though a little anxious about its bearing on his own popularity.  After awhile we were able to rent a comfortable little hall, at which we were content to stay till we could build a church.  It was a day of small things, to human view, and no skill of mine could make it otherwise.  I widened the work somewhat by holding services at outstations, always preaching three times on Sunday.  A church was organized within a few months after my arrival, small in numbers but spiritually rich in its material.  While it had scarcely thirty members, it undertook the erection of a comely edifice which would cost about $4,000.  My part in this undertaking was, as usual in pioneer fields, to provide the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>At length the building was erected as to its exterior, and a beauty it was.  We proposed to occupy it, in spite of its unfinished interior, and take a rest for awhile.  Every bill was paid as it fell due, which to our town's people was a great surprise and won us their good will.  The day came on which I could give notice that the next Sunday's services would be in the new church.  But on Friday the whole business part of the town was burned, and the last building to fall was our church.  My own home escaped.  How vividly I remember the service held there for prayer and conference as to whether we would abandon the undertaking or would try again.  Members, in their own loss and poverty, pledged generously.  Even while the flames were consuming the building, one Christian miner had reached my home from his camp on the mountains four miles away, with the words leaping from his lips, "A hundred dollars, Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:Pond, for another church."  The resolve was to try it again, and as soon as I could get away I commenced a canvass among our churches, going as far as San Francisco for aid.  The Congregational Union had then begun its beneficent work, now carried on under the name of the Church Building Society, and it came to our help with a pledge of $500.  Again the miners and friends, business men in villages in the vicinity at which I was maintaining outstations, were called upon, and the response was more hearty because of sympathy with us in our loss.  But we did not aim this time at a fair exterior.  We could build of bricks and stone a basement structure, make it cozy and comfortable within, and wait for awhile to erect upon it, of the same materials, such a meeting-house as would befit the place.  It was a great day when we dedicated this chapel.  A sufficient amount was subscribed at the dedication and speedily collected, to enable us to draw our $500 from the Union and to be free of debt except $500, which, not then due, remained of expense incurred in the erection of the burned edifice and for which the notes of the church had been accepted by our several creditors, payable in five years without interest.  These notes were all paid when due, though most of our creditors had scattered widely, and I do not remember that a single one of them pressed us to pay.  Quite a gathering of ministers came to help us dedicate the building, among them Rev. E. S. Lacy, of the First Congregational Church in San Francisco.  One of them in reporting the service spoke of the building as being "like the religion that would be taught there, very lowly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>One who has never passed through a similar experience can hardly know the sense of relief, or the joy, with which I commenced a real pastoral work again at home with my flock in our cozy fold; also, at home once more in my study, with my books which for so long had almost seemed to eye me reproachfully for my neglect of them; conscious also that the hard experience had won for me a place not only in Downieville but in the whole county, which would, I hoped, enable me to have a hearing wherever in it I might go to spend a night, whether on Sunday or on a week-day.</P>
111.sgm:<P>This hope was fulfilled.  Sometimes in unoccupied theatres, sometimes in the dining-rooms of the hotels or of miners' boarding houses, sometimes in miners' cabins, I carried the message.  Once in a great while the audience would approach one hundred.  Once it numbered only seven.  But that service was a remarkable one, for as a result of it, directly or indirectly, my church in Downieville received more members on confession of faith than, so far as I know, were ever added to any church in all my pastoral work as the result of a single service.  It was more than twice as many as were present that day.</P>
111.sgm:<P>There is a passage in the prophecy of Ezekiel which for more than half a century has touched a tender chord of sympathy in my heart: "The word of Jehovah came unto me saying, `Son of man, behold I take away from thee the desire of thine eyes with a stroke.'...So I spake unto the people in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:morning, and at even my wife died" (Ezek. 24:15-18).  On June 3rd, 1860, nearly five years after we entered Downieville, a similar word of Jehovah-Jesus came to me.  In scarcely twenty-four hours after we began to think my wife's case dangerous, she left the frame in which she had lived during twenty-eight years and had well served from early childhood to that day the Lord her Saviour.  She left it to be clothed upon with her new body, celestial and eternal.  In our company on the Trade Wind she was the first to be taken and the youngest of us all.  It would be aside from the purpose with which these Reminiscences are written, to give a biography of her or even to picture her in the rare beauty of her person or the far rarer beauty of her character.  But it will help to show some of the finer qualities of mining communities and of many of the miners themselves in those days if I venture to speak of the way in which the news of her departure was received.  She had been my very efficient help-meet in my work as a pastor, but with a modesty and quietude and an absence of any apparent prominence, such that I had no conception of the place she had unconsciously gained in the hearts of all sorts of people.  The crowded audience at her funeral was made up not only of our own town's people but of miners who had tramped from villages four or five miles away, on trails rough and steep.  The town bell was tolled on this occasion for the first time.  All places of business were closed, not even excepting the saloons.  The hush along the narrow streets was significant of a general sense of sorrow and of loss.  There was then in what is now the State of Nevada <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>It was good for me to be thus afflicted, great though my loss and sorrow was.  No other fact in my whole life, except my conversion, had so much to do with the making of my character or with the spirit and the manner of my ministry.  My heart lingers still about that "stroke" so heavy from my Father's hand.  I remember the heart searchings which led to an absolute reversal in some respects in the current of my life, so that if I am able to extend sympathy to others, if I have learned in any good measure to look through others' eyes, if I have made a personal, living, present Christ the center, the very core of my preaching and have brought that Best of Friends into closer relations with other hearts, I owe it in great measure to her who "being dead yet speaketh."</P>
111.sgm:<P>She was thoughtful of me and the little ones whom God had given us, leaving us a legacy whose value cannot be expressed in gold.  Her younger sister had married a brother in the ministry, the youngest member of our class both in college and in the Seminary.  I was next to him with only three months between us.  He had become as dear to me as any brother could be.  Six months before my wife's death he had been welcomed to the place prepared for him in Heaven.  Six weeks before that their only child had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>A few moments before my wife was taken, she said to me, with a sweetness in her tone that even to this day seems to have in it an echo from the open gate of Heaven: "If you think well of it, I would like to have Helen come out to care for our children."  I replied that I would "do my utmost to bring it to pass."  Thus she provided the best of mothers for the children and a help-meet of immeasurable value who continued with me for fifty-two years.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Although through the arrival of families the population of our village increased for about two or three years after my own arrival, I noticed with some dismay that the number of votes thrown at elections decreased steadily, and mines which were accounted by experts to be good for fifty years were found to be exhausted in five years.  But my hope concerning it held out.  I remember when others' hearts were failing them that I preached a Thanksgiving sermon on "The duty of Downieville to prosper."  Our church was crowded to hear it, but even those who were pleased by my enthusiasm almost laughed at my proofs.  Our little church grew both in attendance on its services and in membership.  It became self-sustaining.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Although, up to the time when South Carolina fired on Fort Sumter, our county, and especially our town, had been almost as intensely pro-slavery as if it lay south of Mason's and Dixon's line, and I had been honored by another soubriquet, "the Abolition Preacher," yet I was nominated as County Superintendent of Public Schools and was elected, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>And so in the shifting conditions of early California life I saw nearly thirteen years of hard work resulting, unbelief would say, in two total failures.  But let us see.  That little mountain church disbanded, sent its life currents into other churches and has in these been made immortal.  Its scattered members carried gospel blessings wherever they went.  I think easily and with no attempt to remember all, how one household furnished two pillars for the Presbyterian church in Virginia City; how one other laid the foundation of our church (since deceased) in South Vallejo; how another fostered and doubtless, under God, preserved the infant life of the First Congregational Church in Los Angeles; how, not counting the pastor and his wife, representatives of that little church were among the founders of Bethany Church in San Francisco; how, bringing forth fruit in old age, another pair are known as the father and mother of Grace Church at Fitchburg; how one of my Downieville boys, converted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I cannot leave that mountain town and frontier service without one or two other reminiscences showing what sort of people were found there.  Our quite roomy house was home for many outside our own circle.  They came and went; they sat down at our table with utmost freedom; they lodged with us often up to the utmost capacity of our accommodations, but no one of them ever allowed himself to be a burden upon us either in household care or in expense.  I recall one exception, but he was not a miner and not a resident of Downieville, but a Yankee from my own home town in New England.  Whenever they had been with us even for a day or two, something was left in Mrs. Pond's hands or hidden where she would be sure to find it,--while, accustomed as they were to cook for themselves in their cabins, they would give a lift on the housework that made things go more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>A marked and kind Providence enabled me to sell the house which I had built in Downieville for enough to pay what I still owed upon it.  And the sale of furniture, including our piano, enabled us to meet the travelling expenses of the family to San Francisco and to provide for us for a little while.  But it was not the custom nor the disposition of our Christian people or our fellow citizens to let us go so nearly empty-handed.  The evening before our house was to be dismantled, an unexpected crowd appeared at our front door.  It took possession of the premises upstairs and down.  It provided both program and refreshment.  It had divided itself into two classes, one being the church-members, the other, friends outside the church.  There were two charades in the program, the first now forgotten by me but prepared by the second class, resulted in placing in the hands of Mrs. Pond a purse heavy with $250 in gold.  The second, presented by the first class, came in with a package <HI REND="italics">wrapped in a greenback tied tightly</HI>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>PERILS BY THE WAY</P>
111.sgm:<P>IT is written (Ps. 33:17) that "a horse is a vain thing for safety"; and we in Sierra County, where for several years all of our traveling, and for the entire ten years of my residence there, almost all of it, was either on foot or in the saddle, were wont to endorse the saying.  Not so with the mule.  We had the best of saddle mules and were proud of them.  We extolled the safety of the mule; occasionally boasted of their speed.  We had one in Downieville with the reputation of "a mile in three minutes."  But the main virtues were that he was cautious, sure-footed, picking his way skillfully over the rough places, never unbalanced, no matter how narrow the path or how steep the cliff above or the precipice below.  Furthermore, in making steep ascents, he moves without apparent effort, whereas a horse gives a jerk with every upward step.  The mule's disposition has been slandered as obstinate and sometimes malignant.  After ten years of companionship with him, I testify to his general amiability as well as reliability.</P>
111.sgm:<P>There were two exceptions to his good behavior, which I cite as illustrating the possibility of tragedies in such Gospel pioneering as I was called to undertake.  I had two outstations, one at Goodyear's Bar, supposed to be four miles from Downieville down the river.  The other was at Monte Cristo, a famous mining camp, four miles up the steep ascent of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>On one Sunday I was unfortunate in the animal I rode: he was big, heavy, ungainly, and I think ill-natured.  On my return ride, descending a little especially steep pitch, he threw himself down flat, and in recovering his upright position he left me on the ground with my left foot caught in the stirrup and with the large Mexican spur inserted in the surcingle.  If I could have had one instant before he moved I could have released myself, but in moving he dragged me, and the simple movement by which release was to be had, became impossible.  Thus I was dragged along in the narrow trail with my head within two inches of his right hind hoof.  If that hoof had descended upon my head, the blow could not have been otherwise than fatal.  My chance for safety lay in one characteristic, of which all along I had had clear evidence: he was willing to stop.  I was enabled to keep calm and to speak to him soothingly, and at length he stopped.  One instant and a movement of myself forward one inch released my foot, and I was safe and uninjured.  This could not be said of my torn and dirty clothes; and that I might be decent on the platform at the evening service, I did the only Sunday trading in my whole career.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The other adventure was in connection with a meeting of what we called our mountain association.  The number of churches and ministers in the association was very small; and though it would call, coming and going, for a mule-back ride of one hundred and ten miles, I determined to be there.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>It was arranged that I should take an early start, and after a ride of twenty miles be joined at Camptonville by my well-beloved brother in the ministry, Rev. B. N. Seymour, who, by the way, was the founder of our church in Oroville.</P>
111.sgm:<P>It was a delightful meeting.  Each one of us pastors was too far from any other to admit of much fellowship, and we were hungry for it.  It was the first meeting of the sort ever held in Oroville, and this added to the interest of it.  My own recollections of it are vivid and delightful.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Starting for our return on Friday, we had arranged to spend the evening and hold a service at Forbestown, a mining village about midway of my journey home.  We reached Camptonville, the field of Brother Seymour's labors, in good season, and while we rested it began to snow.  Brother Seymour and his good wife entreated me not to go farther; but when I thought of my three Sunday services unprovided for, and with no possibility of sending any word ahead by telegraph or otherwise, I persisted that I must go on.  I made what speed I could as long as the trail continued to be visible, but the fall of snow was heavy, and at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>But the storm became more severe, and my mule, descrying a little cluster of evergreen trees, went for it, and finding himself comparatively comfortable there, declined to go farther.  I dismounted and trod down the snow for a short space in advance, and endeavored thus to bring him along; till I said to myself that I must not exhaust myself in this way, but must leave the mule and save myself.  The snow was up to my arm-pits.  My only way of advancing was by throwing my weight upon the snow in front of me, thus lowering it so that I could step over it.  I persevered in this, guided only by my recollection of the contour of the ridge, and at length the light in the window of the Mountain House was visible.  I took courage and made for it, reaching it just ready in my fatigue, to fall on the floor.  The people knew me well and received me most kindly.  Two men, taking a mule from their own stable, retraced my steps and found my mule and brought him in.</P>
111.sgm:<P>There I remained over Sunday and went on to my home on Monday in company with a mule-train, which got as far as the Mountain House on Monday morning.  Two men traveling on foot on the ridge parallel to that on which I traveled perished in the snow.</P>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>THREE YEARS AT PETALUMA--1865-1868</P>
111.sgm:<P>HAVE I any right to bring my reminiscences of <HI REND="italics">these</HI>
111.sgm:<P>I came from my mountain home to San Francisco under agreement to serve as a temporary supply for the First Presbyterian Church in San Francisco, till it should secure a settled pastor.  But before I had spent even one Sabbath with that people, I felt it my duty to ask release from my engagement, that I might enter upon service at Petaluma, where, as I was told, such service as I could give, was greatly needed.  The General Association had held its session in San Francisco during that week of my arrival, and when this was ended I went first by a little steamer up the little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Returning to the hotel, I enquired about the churches, and found that this was the building in which I was to preach.  I had already committed myself for three months and retreat was mpossible.  And I do not remember that I wished to retreat.  It seemed clear to me that I was following my Leader and that He would see me safely through.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:I had been made aware that the church and congregation had been thrown into two hostile camps, through conduct ill-advised, to put it mildly, of my predecessor.  Some families had already withdrawn, and others might go.  As I moved about I scarcely heard one member speaking kindly of another.  The Sunday School was small, but even at that, it was suffering for lack of sufficient teachers.  I scarcely wonder that my wife became homesick for the mountains and the mines.  On about my third or fourth Sunday I ventured to preach on Evil-speaking, and was evidently entertaining my hearers, but failing of my purpose.  Suddenly I closed my manuscript and the Bible and spoke as I had no intention of speaking,--with a bluntness, a " <HI REND="italics">thou-art-the-man</HI>
111.sgm:<P>I took one comfort to myself from the beginning; it was this, that whatever might be my perplexities in other directions, I need not be troubled about the finances.  Laymen were caring for this, and at the end of the first month and the second, my salary was paid in full, and with a reassuring comfort to me.  But about that time one of my deacons said to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:me, "I am afraid that we are running behind."  But I listened with a stolid air, as though that was no part of my concern.  But when the other deacon, on the next day, made a like remark and added that he would be glad to know that the deficit did not exceed $1000, I became too much startled not to act.  The business of the church was being so conducted that even the deacons did not know its condition, but were " <HI REND="italics">afraid</HI>
111.sgm:."  Upon inquiry it transpired that the church treasurer, who was also a banker in a small way, had been advancing the money for all expenses, and was charging the church one per cent a month for these advances, and that the deficit amounted to $1800, and this for a church of less than fifty resident members, and all for what is significantly, if not elegantly, called "dead horse."  When this became known, of course there was righteous indignation a plenty, and perhaps some that was not quite righteous.  There were abundant declarations from the very reliable sustainers, that they had paid their pew-rents and their subscriptions promptly, and they would not pay a cent more.  Happily, one of the trustees, known to be a very close man, said in my hearing that he would give fifty dollars to have that debt paid.  There was a suspicion, just or unjust, that he made the proffer because he did not believe that its condition could ever be fulfilled.  But I seized upon it as my opportunity.  I went to the treasurer and assessed him at $215, and to another brother more able, and assessed him $250, and both responded cheerfully.  Then came upon my book the other trustee's $50, and we had more than one-fourth of the whole amount pledged reliably.  Suffice it to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I had come to love the church, and wished to remain with it quite as warmly as the church wished that I would, and so a call was extended and accepted, and I was installed.</P>
111.sgm:<P>A few months after this, Mrs. Pond and another lady who had united with the church on confession, conspired to repair and repaint the meeting-house, and after their expedition in search of funds, they returned in good cheer.  "Everybody welcomed us, said that the work ought to be done, were glad we had undertaken it."  And it was done.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Then, without any special effort, visible at any rate to human eyes, a gentle spiritual interest arose.  In the choir was a boy just emerging into manhood, but still singing alto, upon whom my eyes turned often as I preached, and my heart still oftener.  Young as he was he was the confidential clerk of one of the leading merchants of the city.  He appeared at one of our mid-week meetings, and rose to say that he meant hereafter, with Christ's help, to live for Christ, and it seemed to him supremely good to have thus "something worth living for."  He was John L. Stephens, a member afterwards of the first class to graduate from our Seminary.  With a classmate, David Watkins of blessed memory, he went immediately after graduation to the city of Guadalajara, Mexico, and established there the mission of the American Board, which has continued to this day.</P>
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111.sgm:<P>I am quite sure that no other of our foreign missions ever fruitened so quickly as this one did.  Before the brethren had learned the language well enough to preach in it, a goodly number of earnest converts gathered about them, so that a church, if I remember correctly, was organized while still our brethren had it for their first duty to learn to speak Spanish fluently.  By tracts and a little newspaper which they could issue with the aid of a translator, the city was being sufficiently turned upside down to bring upon them the wrath of the priests.  But priestly denunciations and threats neither daunted these modern apostles nor seemed even to hinder their success.  The time came when the church was so strong and well equipped that Stephens went forth to another city and gathered about him some children and taught them, and preached to such others as came to hear, till the priest preached a sermon which roused the mob spirit, and Stephens was dragged from his quarters and left dead and mutilated in the street.  But the leader of the mob, when he saw what was done, was himself pierced to the heart by the sword of the Spirit, and was converted and became, like Saul of Tarsus, a "preacher of the faith of which he had made havoc."</P>
111.sgm:<P>But I am running far in advance of my theme.  I remember with an interest deep and sweet that period of quiet inquiry in which not Stephens only but about a dozen more were added to the church.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I remember with much less satisfaction an evangelistic campaign which soon after stirred the whole town.  Rev. A. B. Earle, who had come to high <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<illus entity="a111-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WILLIAM C. POND, AET. 50</P>
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111.sgm:repute in New England as an evangelist, visited California, and his meetings in other cities were reported to have been attended with such abundant success that we in Petaluma sought his aid.  The largest auditorium in the city was engaged, and it was thronged.  The usual round of afternoon services for testimony, for confession of sin and for consecration, were held, not without a certain consciousness of the turning of a crank.  Once or twice I was forced to rise and say something like this: "God desireth <HI REND="italics">truth</HI>
111.sgm:<P>I still believe most heartily in evangelistic effort, but not of that sort in which hypnotism masquerades as the very Spirit of God.  I believe that some are called of God especially to this form of service, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>THE PACIFIC</P>
111.sgm:<P>NOT the ocean, but the little weekly newspaper bearing that name, and which I am sure has lived longer than any other newspaper on the Pacific Coast.  The "California Christian Advocate" followed close after, and I do not know how many months behind, but "The Pacific" is certainly its senior.  It was in existence when I reached San Francisco, having been started by Rev. John W. Douglas, the comrade of Dr. Willey in his journey to this new, strange land, and with his coo&die;peration and that of Rev. J. A. Benton of Sacramento and Rev. T. D. Hunt of San Francisco.  Its little dingy editorial office was the rendezvous for all the New School Presbyterian and Congregational ministers who either lived in San Francisco or came to it.  Some traditions talked about then, though less than two years old, seemed to a new comer like ancient history:--How because of a scarcity of white paper in the new city, they had been obliged to send out one or two issues on coarse brown paper; how the paper had lived through divers financial vicissitudes, for printing was expensive, and those, its editors mainly, who were responsible for the bills, had shallow purses, never well filled.  The one tradition which most impressed me was that this paper in an article written by Dr. Willey, with proof behind him which could be produced if necessary and could not be gainsaid, disclosed the existence of a plot to divide <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>One of the unfailing features of the annual "Joint Meetings," was the " <HI REND="italics">crisis</HI>
111.sgm:<P>It was a good day for us all when Bro. Warren resigning his pastorate at Nevada City came down to take charge of the paper.  One of his optimistic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Yet he was not alone.  For many years, and I am quite sure that the term of service covered all the four years of Dr. Warren's administration, Rev. S. V. Blakeslee pulled the laboring oar.  He was the associate editor and the canvasser.  He kept the subscription list growing.  He fully believed in what he called "This Sterling Weekly."  I remember how in the express office at Downieville I used to see a pile of "Pacifics" uncalled for, and looking them over was surprised at the names written upon them.  Bro. Blakeslee would visit us, take the pile and carry the uncalled-for papers to these careless subscribers, and, undaunted and persuasive, come away with the subscription continued and paid in advance.  We came to realize how great the debt was that we owed him, fulfilling a task no other man among us could have been persuaded to undertake.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The "crises" of the former years became, however, the "problems" of the following ones, and various <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>For several years Dr. J. W. Clark, of precious memory, was chairman of the board of trustees, and contrived to pay the bills, himself assuming the labor of folding and mailing the issues, that the bills might be reduced.  And when he could do this no longer, Deacon S. S. Smith came to the rescue in the same unselfish way, Rev. John Kimball being the managing editor, and between them bills were paid whatever the receipts might be.  For many years Drs. Benton and Mooar and one other, edited the paper gratuitously, and so long as this was done, I think that there were no deficits.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I have not attempted to state these recollections in their historic order, and I cannot close without recurring to one event which lives more vividly in my memory than any other relating to our paper.  It occurred at the meeting of the General Association in 1863.  It should be premised that at several preceding meetings we had attempted to make a sort of budget of expenses and divide the amount to be raised equally between ourselves and our Presbyterian brethren; and at no time, unless my memory deceives me, did our brethren find it convenient or possible to bring in their quota.  At the above meeting, and while the Association was in the act of receiving subscriptions to meet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>THE PACIFIC THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY</P>
111.sgm:<P>ITS present title is "The Pacific School of Religion," and its resources are sufficient to support a large and very able faculty.  It is, like all other educational institutions, in need of more funds and probably always will be as its undertakings increase.  And the same spirit which moved us at the outset to propose a Union Seminary sustained by all sorts of truly Christian people, has now, while it is amply endowed and owing no man anything but love, declared the school to be undenominational, and has invited to its Faculty good and able men from among the Baptists, Disciples, and Methodists, and has even elected representatives of these denominations as members of its Board of Trustees.</P>
111.sgm:<P>As far back as 1858, at the second meeting of our General Association (the previous meetings for fellowship, of which several had been held, not being regarded as large enough to bear a name so dignified), a committee, of which Rev. E. S. Lacy was the chairman, presented a vigorous report on the education of young men for the ministry, the first sentence of which gives the germanent idea of the whole: "The distance stretching between us and the theological institutions of the East renders it necessary that we take measures for rearing a ministry of our own."  The measures, however, suggested for meeting this necessity, did not include a seminary all our own.</P>
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111.sgm:<P>I find in the minutes of the annual meetings of 1859 and 1860 intense expressions concerning the woeful lack of both churches and pastors in our State, but no action proposed with reference to supplying the need, except by appealing to young men in Eastern seminaries.  But the suggestion in Mr. Lacy's report of 1858 was like a seed germinating in our hearts, as appears in the Report on Education presented at the session in 1860 by Brothers Ira P. Rankin, E. G. Beckwith and E. P. Flint.  The second resolution is as follows.  "Resolved that we deem it of vital importance that, at the earliest day possible, facilities be provided within our own limits for the education of a competent Christian ministry for the service of our own churches."</P>
111.sgm:<P>In 1861 a resolution was adopted recommending "a continued and increasing interest in the College of California . . . as a special aid in training young men of our churches for the ministry of the Word."</P>
111.sgm:<P>In 1862 and 1863 the records reveal nothing said or done along this line.  It is in 1864 that my reminiscences begin.  I was chairman of the Committee on Education.  Our report dwelt earnestly and somewhat at length on an awakening of interest in our public schools, and on the levying of a tax which would double the amount theretofore expended in sustaining them; urging the establishment of public high schools, or, if this could not be done, of academies supported by private beneficence.  But the suggestion fraught with the most practical results was this: "The fact that three out of the four alumni of our college are contemplating preparation for the ministry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:suggests that the time is coming and <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
111.sgm:<P>This committee wrote in accordance with these instructions; and it perhaps represents the distance which Christ's followers have traveled towards unity, however far we may still be from it, to say that to our quite elaborate and very courteous communication, only one reply at all favorable was received.  This one, which came from Rev. Frederick Buel, who then represented the American Bible Society upon this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:coast, stated that while the Presbyterians could not participate in <HI REND="italics">founding</HI>
111.sgm:<P>It is in somewhat curious antithesis to this that before we had graduated our first class, a Presbyterian seminary was started, and the only young man of that denomination who had ventured into our little circle was withdrawn from us under threat of losing the aid of the Presbyterian Education Board.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The next meeting of the Association (that of 1866) was held at Sacramento, and this committee submitted its report.  I shall never forget that hour.  I have known no parallel to it at any meeting except the one at Cloverdale when we undertook to be no longer dependent on the National Home Missionary Society.  In both cases we were awestruck at the immensity of the undertaking as compared with our resources, our churches being so few and almost all of them so feeble.  Yet in both cases there came that sacred hush in which we instinctively recognize the presence and power of the Spirit of God.  In response to our earnest and inwrought prayer, He bade us go forward, and we obeyed.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Legal advice had been secured as to the way to organize our corporation, and it came into existence forthwith under the name of "The Congregational Theological Seminary of California."  This was afterwards changed, under legal advice, to the even more cumbrous title of "The President and Board of Trustees of the Pacific Theological Seminary."</P>
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111.sgm:<P>It is interesting and pathetic to follow in the records of the Trustees the efforts made to secure a financial basis broad enough and firm enough to justify establishing even the smallest superstructure adapted to our undertaking.  We began by making each member of the Board a solicitor, with reference to raising an endowment fund of $50,000.  This failing, Dr. Dwinell, proposing to take, on his own account, a journey eastward, was made our agent to gather funds there.  But his health gave way, and he was forced to return empty handed.  The first annual report of the treasurer showed liabilities amounting to $350 and no assets.  Let us not wonder at this, still less censure either the churches or the Board.  There were in September, 1866, thirty-two Congregational churches in the whole of California.  Only three of these had a membership of 100 or more.  Our strongest church, on which almost all the others leaned, was the First in San Francisco, with 352 members.  The total membership was 1428, with 127 non-resident.  There was not a single wealthy man, according to present standards, among them all.</P>
111.sgm:<P>At length success began to dawn.  What was called an endowment of $25,000 was made up, mainly, I think, through the influence of Rev. Dr. Stone, so that we might establish a professorship of Biblical Literature and begin our work.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Strictly speaking, however, it was not an endowment, seeing it was made up almost wholly of notes given without substantial security, with an understanding that while interest was paid the notes would not be collected.  This was, however, the only sort of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:endowment possible to be made, and the men who contributed to it are not to be criticised but to be honored.  They were comparatively young men, and their firms young.  They had little or no capital that was not urgently needed in the conduct of their large business.  They did what they could.  I remember personally only two of the subscribing firms.  Each of these pledged $4000, and both of them paid their subscriptions a hundred cents on the dollar.  Some others must have done the same, since at one time the Board was considering the investment of $10,000.  I cannot forbear to mention these two: Flint, Peabody &amp; Co., and L. B. Benchley &amp; Co.  Mr. Edward P. Flint, of the former firm, continued with us longer than any others.  It is more than sixty-eight years since I first met him, a very young man, yet the leading partner in a firm said to be doing a larger business, or at any rate having more ships consigned to it, than any other in the city.  But then, and ever since, the work of the churches has been foremost with him, and no good enterprise connected with them seems to have escaped his notice or failed to receive his coo&die;peration.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Planted in the house of Jehovah,<LB>"He flourished in the courts of our God,<LB>"Still bringing forth fruit in old age,<LB>"Full of sap and green."  Ps. 92:13, 14.<LB>"Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord:<LB>"From henceforth, yea, saith the Spirit,<LB>"They rest from their labors,<LB>"For their work follows with them,<LB>"Celestial and eternal like themselves."<LB></HI>
111.sgm:<P>Rev. 14:13.</P>
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111.sgm:<P>Deacon Benchley was the first treasurer of the Seminary, and for many years the admirable superintendent of the Sunday School of our First Church in San Francisco, a man whom one loved to meet, so cordial personally, so interested in whatever pertained to the progress of the Kingdom of God, so forward in every good work that I have known him to experience the trials which beset those thus forward, as being the one to be grumbled at.  If anything had gone wrong, the question arose, "Why did not Deacon Benchley attend to it?"  A broken promise of some church, or to some church, or to a mission, or the Seminary, was somehow viewed as Dea.  Benchley's promise, or at any rate one for whose fulfilment he was responsible.  And I dare say he sometimes found such a position irksome to be occupied, but I never knew him to be ruffled by it.  I think that he just went right on doing what he could, and years ago he doubtless heard the Master say, "Well done."</P>
111.sgm:<P>By faith in that endowment, we ventured upon our first step forward as a real Seminary.  Early in January, 1869, we elected as our Professor of Sacred Literature, Rev. Joseph A. Benton.  This brother, more than twenty years before, listening to an inward call from God, had left behind him the opportunity to serve as pastor one of the most attractive churches in Massachusetts, to come at his own risk and charges to California.  He was the founder and for nearly twenty years the pastor of our church in Sacramento, and at this time was pastor of our Second Church in San Francisco.</P>
111.sgm:<P>No less a scholar for having been a pioneer, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I wish I could reproduce for others the vivid picture on my memory of that fourth-story loft.  It was for the three students home, study, seminary library, recitation room and place of earnest and united prayer, but with an equipment in material things anything else than inspiring.  But here walked and worked with them a teacher who did not despise the day of small things, faithful, patient, reticent, but deep down in his heart grandly enthusiastic,--more than a shepherd, a father, to his little flock, living and enduring as seeing things that were invisible.</P>
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111.sgm:<P>As we approached a second year in our work, so that another professor was needed, Rev. Dr. Stone consented to go East and endeavor to provide for the endowment of this professorship.  He was gone but a little while, for on April 15, 1870, he had returned and reported $18,683.40 assured and a virtual promise from the Broadway Tabernacle Church in New York of at least $10,000, and an undertaking to make it $25,000 as a complete endowment.  This promise, which may not have been so absolute as Dr. Stone understood it to be, was at any rate never fulfilled.  But the apparent success of Dr. Stone's mission filled us with good cheer, and Rev. Dr. George Mooar was called to the professorship of Biblical Theology, and accepted the invitation.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I cannot pass on without speaking the tribute my heart craves the privilege of paying this modest, unassuming, noble man, in his department one of the best read and most learned men of our or any other generation, expressing his views and the reasons for them with great clearness and simplicity and modest grace, so that I cannot remember an instance of his speaking, even in the three-minute remarks at our ministers' meetings, without feeling fed with just the right word in just the right place.  Called to pass through severe afflictions, he bore himself so bravely, so quietly in submission to the Heavenly Father, that to look in his face or to walk silently by his side was for me a fresh inspiration, a fresh aspiration.  At length he was not, for God took him.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The members of our first class were ill-prepared for a course of study such as was prepared for them, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>About this time there was in Oakland a real estate boom, and there was also on the sightly summit of a knoll, about a mile from the center of the city, a large and comely building erected for a seminary for young ladies.  Rev. E. B. Walsworth had resigned his pastorate in Marysville to undertake the founding and conducting of this seminary.  If I remember correctly, it was he who had purchased the knoll and a considerable tract around it and had erected the building, expecting that the sale of lots would materially help him to meet his bills.  He had found the undertaking too heavy for him, and the attention of our trustees was called to the spot as affording us a fine building, sufficient to accommodate both the academy and the seminary, and with this a fine campus, while the lots, which the seminary itself would make desirable, would enable us to pay for the whole property and get our campus and our building free.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Over a prospect so inviting all the members of the Board <HI REND="italics">but one</HI>
111.sgm: became enthusiastic.  That one stubbornly declared, without at all undertaking to consider probabilities of success, that it was <HI REND="italics">no part of the business</HI>
111.sgm: of a theological seminary to speculate in real estate, or, indeed, in anything.  To gently punish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>As a matter of fact, a good many lots were sold, especially to friends of the seminary, whether with profit to them or not, I have never ventured to inquire.  But a great many were not sold, and the debt incurred in the purchase of the property began ominously to increase through our inability to pay the interest.  I have a vivid recollection of those days.  The records as I read them even now seem to throb with the heart-aches.  Dr. Mooar was sent East, so the record says, "to raise $30,000 as the least sum that will meet immediate and urgent necessities."  But these necessities were not met.  The academy, instead of helping us, showed an annual deficit of $800, and loan upon loan was made for "pressing needs."</P>
111.sgm:<P>Rev. Eli Corwin had been appointed financial agent, and had gathered a few subscriptions, one or two of which were afterwards made useful to us, but he soon resigned and went East, where he did good work till God called him.  One day it occurred that Deacon L. B. Benchley, of blessed memory, took me riding to see some of the work that he was doing, and availed himself of that opportunity to suggest that I take up the work which Brother Corwin had laid down.  I do not remember that I had thought of such a thing before, but his words came to me as a call from the Master himself.  I am not quite sure that all of the Directors saw any hope in the suggestion, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I began my work at the Sacramento Church, with the cordial and effective backing of Dr. Dwinell.  Before the hour for service, one or more of these cards was suspended from the book-rack in every pew, and in closing my address, attention was called to these, and on Monday I went about accompanied by Dr. Dwinell, and had the subscriptions entered on my book, and I left the city with $1,700 pledged, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>When this work was complete we had $13,000 pledged in California.  It does not seem like a large sum now, but then it was simply wonderful.  We had at that time in California, North and South, about fifty churches, not one of them a strong church even according to the standards of that day; the two strongest, the first in San Francisco and the first in Oakland, loaded with debt almost to the water's edge.  There were in these fifty churches just three men who might be regarded as rich, Mr. Russ of Ferndale, Mr. George Locke of Lockeford, and Mr. Edward Coleman of Grass Valley, accrediting him with the wealth of himself and his brother.  Each of the two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>The second was a farmer whose home was at Lockeford in San Joaquin County.  I think that every one who knew him called him "George."  Any term more deferential did not seem to fit him well.  He was for several years a regular attendant at the meetings of our General Association, but always, in person, in garb, in manners, apparently a backwoods farmer.  But sit down and talk with him on almost any really worthy theme, and you would find beneath all this external roughness a mind as clear, a purpose as honest and a heart as true as any that was ever wrapped in broadcloth or made to express itself in the manners of a Chesterfield.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I met him in Stockton.  He was, I think, purchasing lumber.  At any rate he was in a lumber yard, and we sat down on a pile of it and talked.  He listened intently to my plea, and, if I correctly remember, asked how much I wanted him to pledge.  There was a quick beating at the heart, with a fear lest I should spoil it all, but I summoned courage and said, "A thousand dollars."  He really seemed to be pleased, and wrote his name for that amount.  Then he took me to his home, gathered some friends for an evening meeting, and with his effective backing my simple tale brought $200 more.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Edward Coleman was every inch a gentleman.  I met him at his mine in Grass Valley, with his miner's garb upon him.  He at once evinced sympathy with our undertaking, and he little knew how comforted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I felt that with such practical testimony borne on the ground to the need and value of a theological seminary, I could go East with courage.  I thought also that California stood so nearly alone among Western states, and having so many special points of interest, would of itself win favor to my cause and make my work comparatively easy.  I was furthermore endorsed by the College Society, and at length, aided by an appropriation from it.  I had $22,000 to raise in order to make subscriptions available.  I hoped to get it within four months.  But it took nine months of the hardest and most cross-bearing toil that ever fell to my lot.  I began in Winchester, a suburb of Boston, where my dear friend, Edwin C. Bissell, who had been pastor of the Green Street Church in San Francisco, was the pastor.  I continued the use of my subscription cards, hangingthem in the book-racks.  The response was very generous, as I afterwards looked back upon it, but not up to my glowing and reasonless anticipations.  It would take more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>A good many incidents live in my memory.  I will give two of them:</P>
111.sgm:<P>In one of the mountain towns of Massachusetts there lived an old bachelor named Hitchcock, who, by extreme industry, skill and economy, had amassed a fortune, which in his old age he was distributing mainly to young colleges.  I went to see him and told him my errand, and came away with a courteous refusal.  A good deal depressed, I went to my room at the hotel, endeavoring by prayer to restore my courage while I whittled pencils and adjusted them to subscription cards for my next Sunday's work.  At length I was called down to find that Mr. Hitchcock had called upon me.  And the outcome of this second interview was a promise of $5,000.  But he would not put his name down in the subscription book or give me anything more than his orally uttered word.  I felt that for so large a sum I must have something more, both to back up my statement that such a promise had been made, and, not less, to give me some hold on his estate, if he should die before the effort was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:completed.  I had heard that if he lost a copper cent, he would not count <HI REND="italics">hours</HI>
111.sgm:<P>The other had a different conclusion: I called upon Hon. Rufus S. Frost of Chelsea, and was most courteously received, and was rewarded with a subscription of $100 and with a promise to do something for me much better than that.  "I am president of the Congregational Club," he said, "and I will call upon you for an address at its next meeting."  I went away gladdened to the very bottom of my heart.  An address there would tell, much more fully and effectively than I could possibly state it in private conversation, the story of our need, and would tell it to at least one hundred and fifty of the very men whom I most desired to meet.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I prepared myself carefully, and was seated where Mr. Frost could not fail to see me, but two very noted Congregational magnates of England were to speak, and I was quite sure that they would occupy all the time, or if they did not, Mr. Frost might shrink from calling out such a one as myself after the two great men had spoken.  He did not forget me, but in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:most cordial way introduced me.  I went upon the platform and responded: "Brethren, names, like dreams, often go by contraries.  Your president is frosty only in name, etc."; and I could feel it all through me that I had captured the club.  What gave my little <HI REND="italics">bon mot</HI>
111.sgm:<P>But when these subscriptions had been collected, the institution was not founded.  I had remitted a very large amount that had been paid to me in sums <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>At length we reached the point at which we were compelled to ask our professors, Drs. Benton and Mooar, to release us from any further obligation to pay them their salaries.  We knew that their resignation would mean the temporary closing of the seminary, and in the end the failure of the enterprise.  But we knew that Dr. Benton had private resources well earned and carefully husbanded, the source of which we of the early days could easily imagine.  We trusted also that Dr. Mooar could live without a salary, though how this came about, we could not have told.  Time proved that our confidence at this point was not misplaced, but this does not diminish one iota from the debt of gratitude we owe to these brave brethren who stood by the apparently sinking ship, doing their duty as diligently as ever and without a whimper of complaining.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I cannot forget the day when on entering the office of our treasurer, Mr. James M. Haven, he said to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>And here again my heart forbids me to go on without paying a tribute of affection and respect to one of the noblest Christian laymen California has ever known.  He was a gift to all the churches from our little mountain church in Downieville.  Having entered there upon the practice of law, he removed at length to San Francisco, and having, even though residing at a point so distant from the center, been elected a member of the Board of Trustees at the very inception of our work, he not only continued in it till called to service higher yet in heaven, but he was its attorney and its treasurer for more than thirty years.  His professional services given freely to our churches in Central California were equivalent, I suppose, (though of course it is only a personal estimate made from a very partial knowledge of his doings) if appraised at usual prices, to more than $25,000.  I found one day, upon his table, papers which showed that he was the attorney of one of the most prominent of the British firms in San Francisco.  The head of that firm was a warm personal friend to me, and when I congratulated him on his choice of an attorney, he replied, "We were on the point of importing from England an attorney whom we could trust.  We found Mr. Haven, and we are satisfied."</P>
111.sgm:<P>Man's necessity is God's opportunity,--it is an old adage and a good and true one.  God opened our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>He became so much interested that he promised to give us $50,000, provided we met his gift with an equal amount.  Dr. Dwinell made haste to bring the good news to our board.  We found that some other conditions had been added to that first stated, and that they were such as could not be fulfilled, and Drs. Benton and Dwinell were sent to him to secure a withdrawal of these, so that we could put the matter to our friends and our churches squarely; $50,000 for $50,000.  Meanwhile the rest of the Board continued in prayer that our request might be granted.  It was; and we fell at once to the task of fulfilling the condition.  The amount was divided among us, Dr. Benton taking the heaviest load.  I remember that my portion was $2,000, and thanks to Mrs. A. J. Stiles who had been in other matters my great helper, I was able almost at once to bring in a pledge for my share.  But some were less fortunate.  Dr. Benton's load was too heavy for him.  Thirteen thousand dollars must be found, and we seemed to have reached the end of our line.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I can never forget the sensations which crept over me as I sat in the Board at its oft-repeated meetings.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:Those of you who, in New England, have seen the black cloud of an approaching thunder-storm rolling up over the sky, and have felt the attendant quiver in your hearts and frames, can know how I sat there, dreading what, without a word said, I seemed to know was coming.  And it came at last.  "Brother Pond <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
111.sgm:<P>And this pledge was given.  I do not quite understand even to this day the blessing that followed.  The cloud broke into clear sunshine.  I was cordially received everywhere.  I began as before, with subscription cards, and at the church close to the seminary.  The response of $700 from a company so small and a church so young, surprised and cheered me.  Then I began to ask the churches as such to subscribe with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>And here my story ends.  I am glad and grateful to know that what I raised with no little toil and trouble sinks into comparative insignificance as seen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:side by side with what has come since in large gifts running up into the tens of thousands from wealthy friends in response to the appeals of others, till now the assets exceed $800,000, and the future of the beloved seminary seems to be clear of all financial peril.  "Unto him that hath shall be given," but, thank God, we were delivered from the sequel of that text, for from that which had not there was <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>THE ORIENTALS IN CALIFORNIA</P>
111.sgm:<P>I DO not know how early the immigration of Chinese to California began.  They were here when I arrived.  My route from the city's center to my home took me through an incipient Chinatown.  I looked in at the windows when walking through in the evening, to see in the bowls of oil, on which corks perforated with little wicks were floating, the lamps of Bible times.  Missionary work among them had already begun.  Rev. William Speer, compelled by ill health to return from his field in South China, was serving under the Presbyterian Board, and Rev. S. V. Blakeslee, commissioned by the American Missionary Association, had gathered a small class whom he hoped to reach with Christian influences through teaching them the English language.  Few men have left upon my memory so fair a picture of an ideal Christian as did Mr. Speer.  Evidently strong and well trained intellectually, courteous, witty, companionable, but unflinching in his loyalty to truth and right and Christ, he was honored by us all and seemed easily to procure the means for erecting on the corner of Stockton and Sacramento Streets a substantial and quite roomy mission house.  I think that he followed the methods to which he had become accustomed in China,--methods which presupposed in the worker quite thorough acquaintance with the Chinese language; and I remember well looking at him and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>It seems strange to me now that more than ten years should have elapsed before this idea which Mr. Blakeslee conceived came to be recognized by Christians generally.  I remember distinctly the real sadness with which I used to pass by the Chinese quarter in Downieville, almost swarming with them, and felt so utterly helpless as to letting in upon their darkness the light of Christ.  "Close by me," I often said in substance to myself, "yet as far off practically as though they were in China,--souls for whom Christ died!"</P>
111.sgm:<P>At length, in 1867 or thereabouts, Rev. Otis Gibson, a returned missionary from China, was put in charge of the Methodist Mission, and found himself no better off, through his knowledge of the Chinese language, than we who knew it not at all, because he did not come from South China, the region from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>At length the American Missionary Association turned its face this way again.  Gen. C. H. Howard, a brother of Gen. O. O. Howard, who was the District Secretary of the American Missionary Association at Chicago, visited San Francisco to enquire whether there was room for Congregational work among the Chinese, and if so, whether we desired it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I proposed, however, to converse with them one by one, and in the case of the first one sent me, did not call for an interpreter.  The conversation was far from satisfactory to me.  The man seemed to have no conviction of sin at all and consequently no conscious need of a Saviour.  I reported this to the teacher and she replied, "I have learned a lesson."  But by this time Jee Gam had been called into the work and declared that the candidate had misunderstood my questions and had failed to make his own meaning plain to me.  But this man left for China before our preliminary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:examinations were completed, and when he returned, his interest in Christ, or desire to be a Christian, had died out completely.  Assisted by Jee Gam, my conversations with the other seven were surprisingly satisfactory, and when I went to the homes where some of them were employed, I found that their conduct was as becometh believers.  By two of the ladies to whom I appealed the testimony was expressed in identical words: "If Jee Lee is not a Christian, there are no Christians."  "If Chin Sing is not a Christian, there are no Christians."  Distrusting still my own impressions, I requested Rev. Dr. Loomis, the Superintendent of the Presbyterian Mission, to come and converse with them, with full liberty, if he should judge them to be intelligent and sincere in their profession, to invite them to unite with his own Chinese church; and he kindly came over to our church to see them.  Of course I knew nothing of what had passed between him and them, the conversation being in Chinese, but Jee Gam told me that he cordially invited them to unite with his church, and that they replied, "Your church is nearly three miles away; we were converted in this church, we love our teachers, we would like to be baptized and received here."  When I heard this, I saw that our Saviour was committing these souls to our care, and that we ought not to refuse the responsibility.  I had no apprehension whatever of any objection being raised to receiving them, in view of the special precautions that had been taken and the satisfactory conclusions reached.  And the unanimous vote of the Standing Committee in their favor confirmed me in this view.  But I was to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I trust that it will not seem egotistical if I mention <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:one incident in connection with their consent to be received which stands in somewhat close connection with what is to follow.  The reception took place after my pastoral relationship to the church was dissolved.  The Standing Committee had caused these brethren to be gathered together in order to be advised that they would be welcomed on the next Sunday, but found them unwilling to come.  The church had come to feel itself so discredited that the committee sent for me to endeavor to persuade them to come.  And I myself was disturbed by their refusal.  When I had exhausted my persuasions, one of them said to me, "But you will not be our pastor."  Quick as a flash I replied, "I <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
111.sgm:<P>Having been duly installed as pastor, by a council, a second one was called to advise the church as to the acceptance of my resignation, and at my earnest request they advised this.  While a day or two later I was in my study boxing my library, a brother who had spoken for me very effectively before the Council, called and asked me to ride with him.  Upon my consenting, he took me to a point from which I could overlook a new district of the city, and asked if it was not a hopeful place for a mission Sunday school.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>All this had taken place through the coo&die;peration of about thirty members of the church of which I had been pastor,--members who had fully decided to leave that church, and most of whom lived in this new neighborhood, fully one and a quarter miles from their former house of worship, a distance believed to be large enough to prevent competition.  They had expected to scatter, but there was no church near them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>After this, my service to the Seminary absorbed my time and strength for a solid year.  An account of this may be found in the chapter concerning the Seminary.  It seems to me remarkable that that infant church, undertaking no public worship except the Sunday School and the mid-week meeting, held together for twelve months without a single deserter, till, my task completed, I was able to return to them, my pastorate beginning with March 1st, 1874.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The pertinency of all this to the subject of this chapter will now appear.  As I journeyed Eastward to prosecute my canvass in New England, I became <HI REND="italics">possessed</HI>
111.sgm: with the idea that the American Missionary Association was considering an abandonment of its work for the Chinese in California.  I hardly know why my mind dwelt on this idea so much and with such real power, but I determined that when I reached New York I would call at the office and find out whether my impression represented a real fact.  I found that it did, and I presented, with all the emphasis I could command, the reasons for its continuance,--not as a competitor with missions already existing, but as occupying fields unoccupied.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Several months after this, I found myself, as I approached the end of a week, destitute of any appointment for the coming Sunday.  A very dear friend, Rev. B. N. Seymour, who had been my nearest ministerial neighbor when I was pastor in Downieville, was now pastor in a church not far from Boston, and I wrote him that I was coming to him for a rest.  He met me at the railroad station, and with a little embarrassment said that he was not to be in his own pulpit on the morrow, and that Rev. Mr. Woodworth, District Secretary of the American Missionary Association, was to preach, and he himself had promised to preach elsewhere.  "Oh well," I replied, "I will go with you; I want to hear you."  With still more embarrassment he said, "We have but one extra bed, and I have invited Mr. Woodworth to occupy it.  Could you sleep with him?"  "If he is willing to sleep with me," I said, "I will promise not to trouble him."  And so it was arranged, and so it came to pass.  Mr. Woodworth had doubtless heard of the conversation with a secretary in New York, and we had scarcely settled ourselves in bed when he began to pump me on the subject of their mission among the Chinese.  And he did not need to pump hard, for I was brim full of it myself.  He said that the work had been started at his earnest instigation and he could not bear its being abandoned.  It was well on in the small hours before we slept, but his concluding words were, "Brother Pond, you must take up the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>At length my hard job was fulfilled and I started for home.  I spent but two days in New York, on one of which I called again at the office of the American Missionary Association.  I was cordially welcomed and I had hardly got quietly seated when the Secretary said to me, "We want you to superintend our work for the Chinese in California, but Mr. Kimball, though he is somewhere on this side the Rockies and cannot attend to the work, yet has forgotten to resign, and we do not like to discharge him."  I replied that I would like to make the attempt to bring to pass what I had pictured as being possible, and that whenever he should hear from Mr. Kimball he might write to me.  The office was then on Reade Street just below Broadway.  I went up to Broadway and turned down that street to get a look at the then famous hostelry, the Astor House, and there, coming down the steps, was Mr. Kimball.  The cordial greeting was scarcely completed before he said to me, "Brother Pond, I am here in the East and cannot return for a good while, and you ought to take my place as Superintendent of the work for the Chinese."  I replied, "If you think so, it can be arranged in less than twenty minutes," and we walked around to the office.  He wrote his resignation and withdrew.  The few details needing to be settled were arranged, and the next morning I started for home, and two days after I reached <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I had something yet to do in collecting the subscriptions which had been made, conditioned on the full amount of $35,000 being subscribed, and while on the journeys thus made necessary, I visited several missions already in existence,--at Sacramento, Santa Cruz, Oakland and Los Angeles, and started one in Santa Barbara.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Not long after I had returned, Jee Gam laid before me a scheme for a headquarters in San Francisco, close by the Chinese Quarter, which would afford a refuge for our brethren, a school in the English language, a place for Sunday services and a "Theological Seminary."  This last seemed to me rather premature, but the rest expressed our immediate and pressing necessity, for our few Chinese brethren were indeed, as one of them said, "like orphans without a home."  I promised to write about it to the office in New York, and if the plan was approved there, we would undertake to carry it out.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The reply was a hearty approval.  I think that I remember the words in which it was expressed: "This is just what we have always wished to see done."  While I was waiting for this reply, my own appreciation of the project had so grown upon me that I was eager to enter upon it.  So a building was soon found, admirably located, which with some alterations would answer our purpose, and I rented it at $75 per month.  At that time Congress had just passed the Exclusion Law, to take effect six months <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:after it received the President's signature.  During these six months, the immigration of Chinese was almost precisely equal to the whole number in the United States when the bill became a law.  The consequence was that our rooms were packed by the newcomers eager to learn the English language.  Teachers could hardly move about in the crowd.  As many as 130 were reported in attendance for several months.  This called for a large number of teachers, so that the expense became very great.  Nothing had been said to me, either in my commission or in any other way, about a definite and limited appropriation for this work.  In my inexperience in such matters, I had assumed that whatever expense was unavoidable in carrying out what the home office had approved, would be supplied.  I have never in my life been more startled than I was when after all this was moving well, I received a letter stating that the appropriation for this work was $5,000 <HI REND="italics">per annum</HI>
111.sgm:<P>At length an appeal to the Lord Jesus brought me courage, and I said, "If I have to raise $1,200 in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Our general Association for that year, 1874, was held with the First Church in Oakland, and Mrs. Pond and I were assigned as guests to Mr. and Mrs. Wedderspoon, English people of wealth, for reasons highly complimentary to my wife, but such as made us go to them with some bashful timidity.  But never were we more happily disappointed.  Friendship sprang up almost instantly.  And my work for the Chinese was made by them to be an almost absorbing topic of conversation.  Hence it came to pass that when I began to plan for my campaign, I determined to go to Mr. Wedderspoon first.  "Possibly," I said to myself, "his firm will subscribe $100."  So I wrote him a rather long letter stating the case, and handing it to him in his office, asked him to read it at his leisure at home, and said that I would call for his answer the next day.  I did this, and was received most cordially.  "And how much did you say you would need?"  "Fifteen hundred dollars," I replied.  "Oh, we will get that.  Get a little better subscription book and I will go out with you."  Now the firm of which he was the resident partner had in charge large operations in the interior and were consequently great buyers of all sorts of merchandise from mining machinery to dry-goods.  I purchased and prepared a quite handsome subscription book, and after putting down the name of his firm for $100, he went with me.  A tap of his hand on a man's shoulder seemed sufficient to call forth a subscription,--one other of $100, a goodly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>The momentum of this effort enabled me for several years, in spite of an intense and growing hostility to the Chinese, to gather a very helpful amount from San Francisco merchants for our Mission.  From that time also our financial operations were grounded in faith that the Lord would provide.  After receiving notice from the American Missionary Association as to the amount of their appropriation for a coming year, I never asked that it be increased.  Believing in the leadership of Christ and that if one asks for that leadership he will have it and have it made clear to him, we entered doors which Christ opened, and occupied any new field to which He called us.  And though after the appropriation was exhausted and we had to meet the bills of nearly six months by our own efforts, though this seemed to be utterly impossible, still month by month all bills were punctually met, and when we closed our books for the fiscal year, there was always except in two instances a small balance on hand.  In one of these cases the deficit was $6.00, in the other it was $30.00, the result of the forwarding by mistake to New York for the general work of the American Missionary Association, of precisely that amount which was really intended as a special for us.  Thus year by year the Master's promise was fulfilled.  The mountain was "taken up and cast into the sea."</P>
111.sgm:<P>The saving grace of God has attended our lowly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>First and last we have had forty-nine missions.  Not even one-half of these became permanent.  We never had at one time more than twenty-three missions.  But those that were planted and lived only a year or two, were not fruitless.  Of but one do I think as a failure.  One was discontinued because the mob drove all the Chinese from the town; some because the business which gathered Chinese in that locality was discontinued; some because through lack of funds we were compelled to let them die in order that those with brighter prospects might continue.  It is impossible for us to know how many souls were led out of darkness into light.  The Good Shepherd knows them all.  But I am safe and quite within bounds in saying that there have been reported to me more than 3,500.  Nomadic as they are,--as indeed all men are who are without families or homes--these have been scattered in our land from Alaska to Florida; a little army of them have returned to their native land, and many have found their final home in their Father's House on high.  One chief source of satisfaction in the work has been in those who have returned to their native land, self-transported, self-supported missionaries, furnished already with the language as their very mother-tongue, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>At length, in 1885, our brethren, in order to make this work in the old home villages more efficient and abiding, organized "The China Congregational Missionary Society."  It was not in virtue of any conscious spurring by their Superintendent, but of their own accord, and his first knowledge of it came to him when there was brought to him a translation of their Constitution for him to revise.  This is still in vigorous life, coo&die;perating with the Mission of our American Board and really a part of its work, but sustained entirely by themselves.  For many years Rev. C. R. Hager, M.D., was the sole missionary of the Board in South China, his headquarters at Hong Kong, wehre a large mission house with a commodious chapel was erected, in which, as one of our brethren wrote me, "When we go to church it seems as though we were in California again, so many of the people whom we see were once with us there."  Twice each year, and sometimes oftener when special occasions called for it, Dr. Hager toured, much of the way on foot, from village to village, meeting the brethren, teaching them, and baptizing such as seemed ready for baptism.  I remember its being reported to me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I am well aware that in these reminiscences concerning our work for Orientals, I have passed quite beyond what we now account as the <HI REND="italics">Early</HI>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>BETHANY CHURCH</P>
111.sgm:<P>I HAVE spoken of the way in which, with Christ for our Leader, we approached step by step toward the organization of a church.  I have been hold that I ought to add a brief sketch of its history on to the time when under the weakening effects of advancing age, I was constrained to choose between continuing my pastorate and withdrawing from the care of the missions, or resigning the one in order to continue in the other.</P>
111.sgm:<P>It seemed to me that it would be easy to find a pastor who would do better work with the church than I could, but that it would be difficult to find one to take up the complicated duties involved in due care of the missions and fulfil them, until through experience quite costly he had learned how to do it.  Accordingly I presented my resignation with an earnest request that it be accepted.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The peculiar circumstances under which the church was organized were such that we did not at once seek its formal recognition by its sister churches.  We were quite sure that the outlook for it, as this appeared to some of our brethren, who had seen little if anything of the Master's leadership as our faith had discerned it, would be clouded by various doubts about it.  For the same reason we were determined to ask no aid of the Home Missionary Society, nor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>It became necessary for our members, during my canvass for the Seminary, to be content with only such service as could be rendered without a pastor, and with only such mutual fellowship as could be had through our cheery and flourishing Sunday School and our midweek meeting.</P>
111.sgm:<P>It was, however, expected that my work for the Seminary would be ended in a few months--six months at most--and my brethren determined to wait for me.  But my work in the East, which in my sanguine inexperience I supposed could be completed in four months, covered no less than nine; and after my return there remained the collection of the conditional subscriptions made in California.  It seems to me remarkable and a fact worth commemorating that this infant church maintained its mutual fellowship unimpaired and kept up in full vigor all that it had undertaken through a whole year.</P>
111.sgm:<P>On the first Sunday morning in March, 1874, its first preaching service was held with an audience numbering forty-three.  I accepted the invitation which had been extended to me to serve as pastor on a salary of seventy-five dollars a month.  This, with the rent of our lot and unavoidable incidental expenses, would call for an income of one hundred dollars a month.  I can never forget the impression made upon me when I heard that this amount had been provided for; that ten dollars per month besides plate offerings at every service had been pledged by six or seven <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>This pastorate continued for thirty-two years in unbroken and blessed harmony.  The membership rose to about four hundred.  The benevolent contributions in one of those years amounted to three thousand dollars.  For twenty-five years, with six communion seasons in each year, there was not even one without additions on confession.  It was stigmatized as a Chinese church, but turned this reproach into a blessing and a help.  At length its membership was greatly reduced by the dismissal of 199 members who were to be organized as the Chinese Congregational Church of San Francisco.  Quite a number were also dismissed on another occasion to unite with other believers in forming the Bethlehem Congregational Church, the outgrowth of a mission Sunday School maintained by us in a churchless region about one mile west of Bethany.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I venture to give an account of that first sermon, the inaugural of my pastorate, the subject of which was</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Bethany as the name of our church: To what does it pledge us?"</P>
111.sgm:<P>The text was in Luke 24:50: "He led them out as far as to Bethany and He lifted up His hands and blessed them."  The points were five:</P>
111.sgm:<P>1.  Bethany was a place where one sat at Jesus' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>2.  Bethany was a place where the dead was raised to life: and this is what our church should be; people dead in trespasses and sin are to be new-born into the Eternal Life.</P>
111.sgm:<P>3.  Bethany was evidently a home for Jesus above any other village in the land-- <HI REND="italics">His</HI>
111.sgm:<P>4.  Bethnay was the place of a lavish consecration, Mary and her "pound of ointment of pure nard, very precious" poured upon the feet of Jesus, filling thus the whole house with its rich odor.  And this is what should characterize our service as members of this church: gladsome consecration of the best--of all--of what we have or are to Jesus; this spiritual fragrance filling all our house.</P>
111.sgm:<P>5.  Bethany was the place of Jesus' parting benediction before he ascended and the cloud received Him--no bank of fog, but the ancient Shekinah, the only visible representative of God allowed on earth by Him till "the Word was made flesh and dwelt among us."  And this benediction comes to every church in which God finds that which He found of old in Bethany.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I think that I may be pardoned if I claim that of all possible names for a church of Christ Bethany is the most significant and most sacred.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Our little cosy chapel had been built upon a rented lot.  We had no definite lease of it, only the promise <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Now, viewed from a merely business standpoint, that promise to purchase could not be justified as a business transaction, for I had not the money and my people did not have it, nor could I have told where or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:how it was to be raised.  But from the standpoint of <HI REND="italics">faith</HI>
111.sgm:, it was safe, and it saved the church from a disaster which might and probably would have been fatal to it.  Am I asked upon what could such faith be founded?  I reply that I have spoken too briefly in another chapter concerning the "Gifts" of our ascended Lord through the Holy Spirit, of which Paul wrote so clearly and confidently in Romans, twelfth chapter, and again in I Corinthians, twelfth chapter, more in detail.  This has so modified my thoughts and uplifted me in courage and good cheer that I feel that I must not close these Reminiscences without devoting a final chapter to this element of real Christian faith.  Suffice it to say here that I see--I may even say I <HI REND="italics">felt</HI>
111.sgm:<P>When I add that the money was provided in a very simple way by my finding a Christian brother whose name written on the back of my note made that note good at a bank for the entire amount, all mystery about the whole transaction disappears.  But this was the first time in my life that I had ever asked this of any person, and the fact that I could do this did not occur to me till a short time after the responsibility was assumed; and I remember that my friend and helper said that it was the first time that he had endorsed a note.  Yet there was not with me a moment of anxiety about the matter from beginning to end.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Soon after we commenced our Sunday services, we enlarged our chapel by adding at the rear of it two rooms, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>For years we waited till the call of the Master came to us: "Arise and build."  Then the question came whether it should be a temporary structure costing, say, four thousand dollars and involving us in no debt, or whether we should erect a permanent structure and incur a debt of four thousand dollars.  We determined on the latter plan as being on the whole more economical; since the cheaper building would, if our hopes were realized, need to be removed or torn down whenever we outgrew it.  We reached this conclusion the more readily because our income was exceeding our current expenses by about forty dollars a month, so that even if the larger and better building brought no increase of income, we could meet the interest on four thousand dollars and not run behind.</P>
111.sgm:<P>We secured subscriptions amounting to four thousand dollars, and received from a bank the promise of a loan of four thousand dollars.  A Christian brother <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Thus far all had moved on with delightful smoothness.  Now began trials of our faith.</P>
111.sgm:<P>When the four thousand dollars had been collected and used, we went to the bank to complete arrangements for the loan which its president had promised to us, and found that the directors had refused to fulfil that promise.  They had given us no notice of their action.  "They would not loan to a church on any terms.</P>
111.sgm:<P>Our treasurer came to me greatly troubled; but the same Unseen Friend whose guidance had led us thus far, was with me still and suggested a way of escape for us which put me so completely at rest in spirit that I slept peacefully that night and in the morning proceeded to carry out His suggestion.  The result was that Mrs. A. J. Stiles, a mother in our Congregational Israel, even against the advice of her business agent, who declared that a loan to a church was always troublesome and unsafe, insisted that we should have not simply four thousand dollars but five thousand, if we needed it, and at an interest lower than the bank would have charged.</P>
111.sgm:<P>So the work went on with peace and comfort till a sorer trial of our faith appeared.  Our contractor failed and was unable to finish the job.  The result was that what, according to the estimate of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>We were greatly pleased with our building.  It was at once so substantial and so beautiful, both within and without, an object of interest not only to us but to citizens generally in our region, that despite our disappointments we lifted the load cheerily.  But there were further expenses to be met: a furnace must be purchased and put in place: janitor service and other incidentals had much increased, and--worst of all--several of those brave young men who started our work as a church with such good spirit and generous offerings, were moving away.  One went to Oregon; our good treasurer to Oakland; others to distant parts of the city, and one had lost his position and with it his whole income.  Nevertheless, every bill of every sort, except the pastor's salary, was promptly paid.  This was his own instruction to the treasurer: "Pay everything else first."  The business manager of our chief creditor began to speak his glad surprise that a <HI REND="italics">church</HI>
111.sgm: should give him no chance to collect the interest; the treasurer was on hand with it on the morning of every day on which it became due.  Nevertheless, in one way or another, the gracious unseen Provider made it possible for the pastor to be as prompt in paying his bills as he wished the treasurer to be with those of the church.  To this day I am puzzled over this fact: how was it that every real need was met, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>But this punctuality was not attained wholly through our income.  Some of the money that made this possible came through loans on personal credit, and the debt was not decreasing, it was slowly increasing.  One of the steadfast givers said to me: "If only we could see the debt diminishing, it would be easy to give and to sacrifice in giving"; and then added, "But--," and left the sentence unfinished.  I myself was praying daily that we might be enabled "to clip off something month by month"; and I even seemed to cry out to the listening Jesus: "Did I not ask Thee to guide us, and even beg Thee to stop us if it seemed to Thee unwise for us to go on?"  At length, one morning as I rose from my knees, I found that I had prayed that "the debt might be fully paid, not a shred of it left"; and I found myself ready to exclaim with that Israelitish nobleman, "If the windows of heaven might be opened, could this be?"  I could see no signs of its probable fulfilment.  I do not remember that I had faith to expect a granting of my audacious request.</P>
111.sgm:<P>About six weeks after this, Mr. Robert Balfour of the great British house of Balfour, Guthrie and Company, met me on the street, and tapping me on the shoulder, said: "There's something in our office to interest you; call in and see about it."  "I'll go in now," I said.  He replied, "Mr. Forman" (the other resident partner) "is very busy just now; come in tomorrow."  On going in on the morrow, Mr. Forman showed me a letter from Mr. Williamson, one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I was startled--too much so to ask any payment.  I went home thinking and saying to myself, "It is my work for the Chinese that has interested him, and I must use it for that"; nevertheless, almost praying that it might lead to the extinguishment of our debt, which was now about eight thousand dollars.  When I reached home I told the good news to my wife, and her exclamation echoed mine: "I wish that could go toward our church debt."  At length I resolved, realizing, as I did, that a failure of Bethany Church would be almost a deathblow to our missionary work, that I would call the next day on the gentlemen whom I have already named and tell them of our debt, how it was incurred, and assure them that if this donation could be devoted to that purpose, I believed that with such leverage I could raise the whole amount.  They were agreed that "nothing could please Mr. Williamson better than that.  --Write him a letter about it, and come and dine with us tomorrow evening and read your letter to us."  I returned home, and my wife and I talked further, agreeing to tell the news to no one until all questions concerning it could be answered.</P>
111.sgm:<P>After that dinner I read my long, frank letter to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I made up a list of all of us of whom anything could be expected, omitting good Deacon Palache, a bookkeeper, and the only one among us all of whom I knew that he had money in the bank.  He had $2,500, saved from his limited salary.  I asked him to come to me in my study, naming an evening for it: "I had something to show him."  He came, and I told him the whole story and then showed him my list and the amounts at which I had assessed each one --interrupted several times by his remark, "That's too much for him or her."  When we reached the end and found that it totalled $2,500, and that his name was not down, he took the hint instantly and said, "I'll do it; I'll do it!" "Well, then," I replied, "if after I have told the story to the people, you will rise and, speaking not more than two minutes, will make your pledge, I believe that the three thousand dollars will be raised."  He did it, and within twenty minutes the amount was subscribed, and in about five months from the morning when I offered that "inwrought" prayer, the debt was extinguished--"not a shred of it left."</P>
111.sgm:<P>It must have been close to the very day on which in San Francisco I offered that "inwrought prayer," when in Liverpool my friend was writing that letter.  Indeed, I can easily picture to myself the unseen Jesus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>I think that my readers will be interested to know how this Christian merchant became interested in my work.  Nearly eight months before this good news came to me, I found one day that I needed two hundred dollars in order to meet the bills that day falling due.  I was not in good mood for solicitation, and I said to myself, "I will go to Balfour, Guthrie and Company and get their subscription of fifty dollars, and will put my note in the bank for a hundred and fifty dollars."  So I opened up my subscription book and did my errand, and my good friend took my book to enter the subscription.  I noticed an elderly gentleman sitting in the office, and, imagining that I might be interrupting some business conversation, hoped in a few minutes to withdraw.  But this gentleman asked, "What is it, Forman?"--"Our Chinese Mission," he replied, whereupon the gentleman began to question me.  I answered very awkwardly and to myself unsatisfactorily.  But in three or four minutes he turned to Mr. Forman and asked, "How much do you subscribe?"--"Fifty dollars," was the reply.--"Better make it a hundred," he said, and Mr. Forman obeyed.  Before that could be written he added, "And put me down for fifty," and before this was written he said again, "and put Mr. Balfour of Liverpool down for fifty dollars.  I know that he will like it."  And so I went out with two hundred dollars and put no note in the bank.</P>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>EARLY CONGREGATIONALISM AND SOCIAL QUESTIONS</P>
111.sgm:<P>IN connection with my first sermon preached in California I was requested to lead in the pastoral prayer.  In the course of it I asked that <HI REND="italics">slavery</HI>
111.sgm:, among other evils, might cease.  The pastor meeting me the next, day suggested that if I must pray against slavery, I do it under another name,--oppression, for example, or cruelty.  "The Lord will know what you mean," he said.  Now, to tell the truth, notwithstanding an intense momentary revolt at the suggestion, I soon saw a reasonable side to it.  I am speaking not for myself alone but for the whole worshipping assembly, and I must consider not only my personal wishes but theirs also.  California, though admitted to the Union as a "Free" state, was, in politics and in the social atmosphere of its people, if not pro-slavery, at least bitterly hostile to any agitation against it; and I observed a silent recognition of this fact on the part of our little company of ministers, except when occasion called for utterance, and then they spoke distinctly.  I have already referred to the fact that when I arrived it was a young tradition that an article in "The Pacific," of which I understood that Mr. Willey was the writer, led to the defeat of a plot to divide the State and make its Southern portion slave territory.  That proposal some years afterwards was made publicly, and tentatively pressed, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"Whereas, the great question of slavery is engaging the intense inquiry of the churches and the people of the land; and whereas, we have reason to believe that many are endeavoring to involve this State in this stupendous iniquity; resolved, that we bear testimony against this evil and as Christian ministers shall labor in our sphere and to our ability against its encroachments in our State and land."</P>
111.sgm:<P>After the Civil War began, there was at each of our meetings a committee on the "State of the Country," of which Dr. Benton was usually made the chairman; and the ringing tones in which he spoke for us of loyalty to the Union and the nation, and of slavery as the root of bitterness from which all our quarrels rose, make music still.  I quote a brief extract from one of these resolutions adopted enthusiastically in 1862:</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Whereas, the institution of slavery has been the underlying cause out of whose activities have sprung <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>"Resolved, that we respectfully tender to the President and his advisers our sympathy with them amid their perplexities, our assurance of regard amidst all obloquy, and our unwavering support through all difficulties and dangers.</P>
111.sgm:<P>"Resolved, that since the enemies of the Union are determined to wage the contest to the bitter end, we, under a righteous sense of duty to God, are in favor of carrying on against them a war <HI REND="italics">which is war</HI>
111.sgm:<P>"Resolved, that we are gratified at the Emancipation Scheme proposed by the President as a War Measure after January next, believing it to be called for by the emergencies of the case and in accordance with the demands of the age and of all ages."</P>
111.sgm:<P>Scarcely need I say, much less to quote as proof of my testimony, that as to intemperance, divorce, Sabbath breaking, gambling and the foulnesses always close by in gambling halls, we used equal plainness of speech.  As far back as 1853 we were found proposing and urging the legal prohibition of the traffic in intoxicating drinks, and I think that no session of our Association failed to adopt some report pledging ourselves to do whatever we could to further the Temperance cause.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The first public school in California was opened in Monterey in 1849, with our Brother Willey as teacher.  Afterwards, when he had removed to San Francisco, our churches joined with others in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>In the year 1856, during the three months from May 14th to August 18th, there took place in San Francisco a revolution as heroic in its conception and development, as epochal in its own sphere, as greatly needed and as wisely and bravely brought to a beneficent result as any on a larger scale of which I ever read.  In the beginning of its existence San Francisco and indeed the whole of California was practically lawless.  There was a feeble attempt to secure law and order, using Mexican methods, but it did not fit the new conditions and was almost powerless.  Congress, occupied with discussions, all of them rooted in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:the "irrepressible conflict" between Slavery and Liberty, had not provided a Territorial Government; and a State government, even after a Constitution had been framed and had been adopted by the people, could operate but feebly so long as it remained unaccepted by Congress.  The result of this was that convicts from Sydney, men that wished to know no law, flocked hither and by force of numbers and repeaters and frauds in the counting, were virtually in possession of the government, such as it was.  This condition of things becoming intolerable, a Vigilance Committee was formed which executed the law not through its prescribed forms and agencies, but according to its spirit.  Some murderers were hung, some guilty of frauds in politics or money matters were banished, while many others for whom prudence was the better part of valor left the city for the city's good.<ANCHOR ID="n14-1">*</ANCHOR>
111.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1">"Between 1849 and 1856 more than one thousand murders had been committed, and only one legal conviction secured."--Atherton's Intimate History of California, p. 172.</NOTE>
111.sgm:<P>All this took place before I arrived.  I am telling the story as it was told to me.  It did good for the time being, but the Committee made one bad mistake, or, at any rate, the people did for whom the Committee counselled and wrought.  They lapsed into political carelessness, and during or before 1855 the old crowd or one like it had a grip on the city government which it seemed impossible to loosen.  The safest thing a murderer or any other criminal who "had a pull," could do was to surrender himself for trial.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:Acquittal might be costly, but it could be had.  I remember across sixty years how the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court released from jail on a writ of habeas corpus some young men openly guilty of some crime, and justified his action by saying, "Why, they were my friends."  Then there came to the rescue one of Nature's noblemen, James King of William.  Belonging to a large tribe of James Kings, he had found it convenient to add his father's name to his own.  I first knew him as a banker.  He sold his business, and at length he issued a little daily paper of four small octavo pages which he named "The Evening Bulletin."  He went, well prepared with facts and proofs, into the frankest and bravest statements respecting the condition of the city and the corrupt politicians who had brought about that condition.  It was scarcely a week, as I well remember, before the demand for the little sheet became so heavy that it was scarcely possible, with the facilities at his command, to print the number called for.  Thus he was enabled to enlarge it and procure better facilities.  Soon after this, a man named Cora committed murder openly in the street.  He took refuge in the jail, was tried, and while eleven of the jury were honest men and voted him guilty, there was one who stood out for acquittal.  "He was manifestly bribed," said one of his fellow jurymen to me.  This raised public indignation, and it was duly characterized in the "Bulletin."  Not long after, an ex-convict from New York, named Casey, who had somehow contrived to become a supervisor, passed under the "Bulletin's" animadversion, and having received no satisfaction through a call at the office, met the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>That very night a second Vigilance Committee was organized, with no less than 2500 members.  The next day the sheriff, under pressure of a loaded cannon trained up before the jail door, surrendered to the Committee both Casey and Cora, and they were taken to quarters made ready elsewhere.  There they received a fair trial in strict accordance with the spirit, thought not with all the forms, of law, and were found guilty and hung.  After that not only a number of well-known thieves and other evil-doers were tried and sentenced to leave the State, but no less a personage than the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court was arrested for murderous assault and held till his victim's convalescence set him free.</P>
111.sgm:<P>This Committee continued its work for only three months, as I have said, but it did not pass out of existence, and the fact of its existence was a terror to them that did evil.  And indirectly it controlled the politics of the city for about eighteen years, seeing to it, as far as possible, that there should be no fraudulent voting or counting at the elections, and thus securing for San Francisco, quite soon, the reputation of being the best governed city in the State, or even in the nation.</P>
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111.sgm:<P>Now the point which I wish to bring out is that in this movement, which may truly be declared to be the most fully justified, the best managed and the most successful revolution the world ever saw, Congregationalism was largely represented.  Mr. Lacy wrote that though the church was filled to the door on that Sunday following the death of Mr. King, he was distressed at missing all the young men who had gathered about him and had been for him such a full-flowing source of inspiration and joy.  They were busy serving the Lord in another way.  Mr. Lacy quotes a Southern gentleman who was watching the soldierly members of the Committee marching towards the jail, as saying, "When you see these psalm-singing Yankees out like that on Sunday, <HI REND="italics">hell is coming</HI>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>IN CONCLUSION</P>
111.sgm:<P>IT marked an epoch in the early history of Congregationalism in California, when in 1864 Rev. James H. Warren was appointed by the American Home Missionary Society its Agent for the Pacific Coast.  How this was viewed at the time appears in this brief but hearty endorsement of it by the General Association: "Resolved, that we hail with joy the appointment of a resident Agent of the American Home Missionary Society for the Pacific Coast,--and that we will heartily coo&die;perate with him in the work entrusted to his hands."  Two years after this the record is that "The Narrative and Statistics indicate a prosperity perhaps hardly equalled in any preceding year."</P>
111.sgm:<P>The field was immense territorially, immense also in its potencies, its opportunities and its consequent demands.  Two other brethren had received such an appointment, Rev. I. H. Brayton and Rev. T. D. Hunt, but the former was compelled soon to resign on account of ill health, and the latter, devoting himself mainly to exploration, must have incurred traveling expenses too great for a missionary treasury to afford.  Whether this was the reason for the cessation of the work, I do not know, but it did soon cease, and for several years this ministry, so greatly needed, was not resumed.  Dr. Warren had been nominated for the position in 1859, but we waited five years for the nomination to take effect in his appointment.</P>
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111.sgm:<P>He was the man for the hour.  Even what may be said to be his one defect might also be said to be a help and blessing partially disguised.  He was very sanguine, and this caused him sometimes to see in the future what would not be found there,--to see it so distinctly as to cause him to encourage others to expect what could not be provided.  One of our home missionaries once wittily said, "Dr. Warren is the most <HI REND="italics">promising</HI>
111.sgm:<P>Dr. Warren received his commission while still our American Home Missionary Society was working under the Plan of Union, so that the interest of the New School churches, so far as these were subserved by the American Home Missionary Society, must have come under his care.  The fact that I do not remember <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:hearing a single word of complaint from our Presbyterian brethren respecting his administration of Home Missionary affairs makes me quite sure that though personally an ardent Congregationalist, he was faithful to the spirit of the Plan of Union and impartial in his attention and co-working.  At length, in 1869-1870, the Reunion of the two great branches of the Presbyterian Church left the American Home Missionary Society dependent entirely upon the Congregational churches, and it became in fact, as afterwards in name, the <HI REND="italics">Congregational</HI>
111.sgm:<P>Few of those now with us have any remembrance of the constraint and restraint in which we had been involved through loyalty to that compact made by our fathers.  It would be difficult for them to put themselves in our place so as to realize what a relief it was to be free to lay plans, to open up new fields, to make explorations and organize churches with no anxiety lest we might seem to brethren whom we loved, to be careless of their denominational rights and plans.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I venture now confidently to affirm that this new liberty of ours did not degenerate into license.  I speak confidently because I was from 1864 to 1875 (if not longer) the first Statistical Secretary of the Association, and because for more than twenty-five years I was the Recording Secretary, first of the "Advisory Committee" of the American Home Missionary Society and then of the Executive Committee of the California Auxiliary; and there could scarcely have occurred a use of missionary money for purposes of denominational competition without my observing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Under the pressure of this destitution, we began to observe the wonderful adaptability of the policy and the spirit of the Pilgrims to solve the problems of the Frontier.  It long ago became a familiar characterization of Congregationalism that it is "the solvent of sects," but I remember when it dawned upon <HI REND="italics">us</HI>
111.sgm: --a new discovery.  If in any young community people of several different denominations came to see that by combining they could at once establish a church strong enough for efficient service to Christ, and if thus they became wise enough to say, "Let us have a `Union church,'" they would inevitably make it a congregational church without the capital C.  That is, they will instinctively regulate their church affairs by a majority vote of the entire membership.  They also will of necessity be autonomous.  Now even though they are strong enough to be self-sustaining, they will become hungry for <HI REND="italics">fellowship</HI>
111.sgm:.  And still more, if they find themselves unable alone to build a suitable meeting-house or to support suitably a pastor, and they need the practical aid of fellowship, to whom will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:they turn?  If to Presbyterians, they must become a Presbyterian church; if to Methodists, a Methodist church; and so with regard to any and every company of Christian people combined upon the principle of <HI REND="italics">mutual control</HI>
111.sgm:<P>Several of our now comparatively strong churches came to us in just that way, and became at length as heartily and helpfully Congregational, not discarding the capital C, as any that were to this manner born.</P>
111.sgm:<P>In some cases, however, this has involved us in rather bitter disappointments.  Nearly twenty years ago I became greatly interested in a church organized in this way, the first church in a little village which has now come to be a large city.  Toward the erection of its house of worship I was enabled to secure about $4000.  The element in it originally Congregational was very small.  Its main pillars, as I now remember the case, were Baptists and Presbyterians, with a goodly share of Methodists.  What <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Upon a showing of enrolled membership, we are in California, as in the whole country, one of the smallest of the more prominent denominations.  But this is not due to our polity.  It can be accounted for in other ways.  And, if we except the sect which claims as especially <HI REND="italics">its</HI>
111.sgm: possession the name of "Christian," and if we take account of what might be called our capital at the time when we began with some measure of freedom to act for ourselves, no other body of Christians has prospered in the matter of membership more than we.  What I mean by capital is the size of each denomination at the time spoken of--the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Congregational statistics for the whole country date from 1857.  They were gathered by and published in the "Congregational Quarterly," and they showed a total membership of 220,332; in California 463.  The next year showed 257,634 in the whole country, and 579 in California.  The Presbyterians had 427,790.  Thus the Presbyterians were nearly twice as numerous as we were, while the Baptists and Methodists were more than four times as numerous.  In sixty-nine years the Congregationalists have become "two bands," two Conferences, Northern and Southern, and the total membership 34,280, about seventy-times as many as in 1857.  I have not within reach the statistics of other denominations, and will rejoice with any, if there be any, whose ratio of increase exceeds ours.  But when we consider that this increase has taken place here while what I have called our capital, to start with, was so small, I am sure that we in this new land, in this "frontier" field to which we were told with wearisome reiteration that Congregationalism with its "rope of sand" for mutual helpfulness was ill adapted, have no need to be discouraged, but rather to thank God and press on.</P>
111.sgm:<P>If now I may close with a few words of suggestion with reference to greater efficiency, let me say that we need above all things else a deeper, more intense and general appreciation of that which Jesus, just before his ascension, spoke of to his apostles, as " <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
111.sgm: promise of the Father," eminent among all promises and in a true sense inclusive of them all, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>With this there will come freedom and power as witnesses for Christ.  "Ye shall receive power when the Holy Spirit is come upon you, and ye shall be my witnesses."  Acts 1:8.  We must accept the plan distinctly and unchangeably adopted by our Master for redeeming the world from social disorder and wretchedness, namely, the saving of individuals one by one from sin.  This is foundation work in the uplift of mankind, and to lay this foundation, stone beside stone, living stones upon living stones, Christ Himself the chief corner-stone, this is the Church's special vocation.  It is something that human government cannot do, that civilization cannot do, that education cannot do, except it be such educaiton as develops in strength and beauty that hidden life into which we are born anew, born of the Spirit of God.  Let the churches aim at this, and by the grace of God achieve it, and all the rest will follow, I will not say easily, but I will say normally, rapidly, triumphantly.</P>
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111.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.--SUPPLEMENTAL.</HEAD>
111.sgm:<P>THE CHARISMATA: SPIRITUAL GIFTS</P>
111.sgm:<P>"THE old Protestant theologians understood by this term the endowment to perform miraculous works; such as the speaking with tongues, healing the sick, raising the dead; and limited it to the Primitive Church.  This is still the view of the Protestant Church, which regards these gifts either as forfeited by the Church's guilt, as do the followers of Edward Irving, or as <HI REND="italics">extinguished by God as no longer necessary</HI>
111.sgm:<P>So writes one of our standard authors.  Another more recent, responsive to the modes of thinking current in our day, seems to attribute the endowments of power which the newborn disciples at Corinth and elsewhere received, to a natural process " <HI REND="italics">which ceased to operate when the Church took its place as an established institution</HI>
111.sgm:."..."It would have been surprising had so entire a revolution in human feelings and prospects as Christianity introduced, not been accompanied by some extraordinary and abnormal manifestations.  The new Divine life which was suddenly poured into human nature, stirred it to unusual powers.  Men and women who yesterday could only sit and condole with their sick friends, found themselves today in so elevated a state of mind that they could impart to the sick vital energy.  Young men who had been brought up in idolatry and ignorance, suddenly found their minds filled with new and stimulating ideas, which they felt impelled to impart to those who would listen.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:These and the like extraordinary gifts, which were very helpful in calling attention to the young Christian community, <HI REND="italics">speedily passed away</HI>
111.sgm:<P>Both these statements, samples as they are of many others, express a conviction more or less current in every quarter since thought was set free by the Reformation, that " <HI REND="italics">the age of miracles is past</HI>
111.sgm:<P>I confess that I was stumbled by the fact that the history of the Church is replete throughout the ages with outbursts of miraculous energy, and by the fact that these were disposed of by orthodox doubters in a way somewhat like that in which rationalism has sought to discredit the miracles of Jesus Himself; yet in the busy life which I had to lead, and in my lack of preparation and of the apparatus necessary to investigate the accounts of these miracles, I generally dropped the subject and fell back on the old adage, "age of miracles is past."</P>
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111.sgm:<P>A more serious difficulty was in the paragraph in which the Gospel of Mark draws to its close.  I disposed of this, however, for awhile by noting that reliable and friendly criticism has made it quite certain that the final paragraph as Mark wrote it, was lost, and this was added as a substitute by some later copyist.  But if this was so, this passage is a demonstration that these spiritual gifts did continue in the Church long after the close of the apostolic age.  Certainly if they were no longer bestowed, the writer of the paragraph would not have represented Jesus as giving this unlimited promise: "These signs shall accompany them that believe: in My name shall they cast out demons, they shall speak with new tongues...they shall lay their hands on the sick and they shall recover."</P>
111.sgm:<P>Fifty-six years ago a Christian woman in New England who had at that time attained no eminence in literature or science or religion, published a book which she entitled, "Science and Health, with a Key to the Scriptures."  It is difficult for one not already drawn to it, either by a personal experience of the practical results attending the reading of that book or by a close observation of them, to find in it, even now, the secret of its hold upon multitudes of people whose intelligence and trustworthiness are certainly not below--indeed, I may say, are evidently above--that of the average American.</P>
111.sgm:<P>It seems to me that no statistical study is necessary to compel us to find in those results a wonderful phenomenon.  The adherents of Christian Science are building in every large town large and expensive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Perhaps in calling these healings miraculous, I am using a term which the teachers in this movement would repudiate; for I have seen in Mrs. Eddy's statement of her own personal experience of healing, in which the whole movement took its rise, that she discovered a "law"--if I understood the statement correctly, a natural law--by the right use of which all these results are produced.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I am not able to go further in describing this phenomenon.  I am not its exponent, certainly not its advocate: I am simply insisting that it is a phenomenon which ought to be candidly and carefully studied; and unless there has been a discovery of some natural law at present unknown except to the disciples of Mrs.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:Eddy, in the use of which these results are brought to pass, <HI REND="italics">the age of miracles is not past</HI>
111.sgm:<P>It is nearly, if not quite, twenty years since I read a paper at our Congregational ministers' meeting, the title of which was: "Christian Science: Shall we fight it or shall we flank it?"  It had already for several years been fought by eminent preachers in almost every denomination with great earnestness and skill.  But the more we fought it, the more it grew.  It was capturing many of our church members, and often such as could ill be spared; and its literary agencies of growth were increasing both in number and in power.  And the secret of it all, so far as one outside could see, is in its removing pain, its healing disease, its quieting anxiety, and doing this without the use of medicines and without delays.</P>
111.sgm:<P>The practical suggestion in my paper was this: that since our fighting had been so signally unsuccessful, we flank it after the manner of General Sherman's magnificent march from Tennessee to Savannah, never fighting a battle, but simply keeping ahead of the opposing force.  Suppose, I said, we outdo our friends of this new cult in their own undertakings.  Suppose we reconsider that old saying that "the age of miracles is past"; examine the grounds for so bold an affirmation and raise the question whether, in bringing us face to face with such a phenomenon, Christ may not be rebuking our unbelief.  If that old saying is heresy, it seems to me to be one of the worst heresies that ever blocked the advance of the Kingdom of Christ, or hindered the salvation of men.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I cited in my paper this incident in my own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>Few probably remember that about thirty-three years ago the centennial of the introduction of prayer at the daily meetings of the convention which framed the constitution of our nation being about to arrive, the suggestion was widely made that the churches recognize and celebrate it by holding in each church a prayermeeting at ten o'clock on the morning of that day.  Bethany Church acted upon that suggestion.  On the Sunday morning preceding the Tuesday on which this meeting was to be held, a message from Miss Smith came to me stating that she was very sick, and asking me to come and pray for her, anointing her with oil according to the direction in the epistle of James.  Of course I promised to do so as early as possible in the afternoon.  Two of our earnest young ladies accompanied me.  When Miss Smith was brought out of her chamber and laid down upon a lounge arranged for the purpose, I thought her face to be more haggard than any I had ever looked upon before.  A fearful hemorrhage had taken place, whether from the lungs or not, I do not know.  I greatly esteemed her; felt that I could not spare her: and I prayed for her recovery with all earnestness, but with submission to what seemed to be the will of God. I also anointed her with oil in fulfilment of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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111.sgm:<P>As we walked toward our church, my two companions chatted together cheerily concerning other matters than that which had called us to our sick sister.  I could not bear it, and at length gently chided them--"I don't see how you can be talking so glibly, with Carrie Smith so sick."  "Why, she is all right," replied the one who had prayed; "I don't have any difficulty in believing it: I <HI REND="italics">know</HI>
111.sgm:<P>On Tuesday morning, about ten minutes before ten o'clock, I went from my study to the chapel to see that every necessary preparation had been made for the meeting, saying to myself on the way, "As soon as this meeting closes, I will call on Carrie Smith."  But in opening the door I saw her already present.  She had walked a half mile over a rather rough road on an upgrade.  Of course I was astonished.  I asked, "How is this?"  The answer was, "When you prayed, and when I was anointed, I felt no change.  But when Lillian prayed, I felt a thrill run down my back and found that I was well."</P>
111.sgm:<P>This incident set me to studying the Scriptures which speak of the "gifts" of our ascended Lord (Eph. 4:7-12; Rom. 12:6-8; I Cor. 12: 1-11).  I observed in one passage that those gfts were represented as coming from our ascended Lord; and in the others, it appears that the Spirit bestows them.  For us the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:simplest and most vivid thought that we can have of the Holy Spirit is to think of Him as <HI REND="italics">Jesus invisible</HI>
111.sgm:.  We are certainly warranted in doing so when, in perfect harmony, Jesus speaks of the Paraklete as one coming to be with us forever (John 14:16) and adds in verse 18, " <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
111.sgm: will not leave you desolate, <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
111.sgm:<P>Now, not attempting to suggest any theory about these gifts, as though they were bestowed through some law of nature not yet discovered, or as though they were natural results of influence (inflowing) of health and strength from one human spirit "strong in the Lord" into one weakened by disease, I have found these facts to be unquestionable, if that which is written concerning them be true.</P>
111.sgm:<P>1.  These gifts were <HI REND="italics">distributed</HI>
111.sgm:<P>2.  This distribution was an expression of Divine sovereignty--"Dividing to each one severally as <HI REND="italics">He will</HI>
111.sgm:<P>3.  The exercise of these gifts by those who had received them was also regulated by the Divine will.  It is true that at times--a <HI REND="italics">few</HI>
111.sgm: times, as far as appears--throngs of people were healed, apparently without discrimination.  It is said that at one time in Jerusalem the reputation of Peter as a healer had become so widespread, that the sick were brought into the streets and laid on beds or couches, so that his shadow as he passed "might overshadow some of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>How long would Epaphroditus (Phil. 2:26, 27), whom Paul loved so dearly and leaned upon so heavily, have been "sick nigh unto death"; if Paul, who seems to have been endowed with many gifts--certainly that of healing (see Acts 14:8-16)--could <HI REND="italics">on his own authority</HI>
111.sgm:<P>So then, in this incident, the voice of the Master was heard within Lillian--my child in the Gospel--and brought her assurance that her prayer was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>It seems to me that until this occurred, the question ever rose in my mind whether I myself had any of these gifts, and it was answered for me: I had the gift of <HI REND="italics">prophecy</HI>
111.sgm: --not necessarily <HI REND="italics">fore</HI>
111.sgm: telling, but always <HI REND="italics">forth</HI>
111.sgm:<P>At the beginning of my first pastorate, I prudentially purchased a little blank-book in which I entered good subjects for sermons, thinking that whenever I was at a loss for a subject, I could find one there.  The list became somewhat long, but was never referred to and was lost long ago.  I have never been content to preach upon a topic because it was a good one or because it would be a pleasing one to my people.  Long before this question of the gift of prophecy had risen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>Recollections apposite to this go back beyond my ministry in California, and to preaching done while I was still a student in the Seminary at Bangor, Maine.  We were to have a vacation of two months, and I was appointed to supply a pastorless church in the suburbs of the city of Belfast, a village known as North Belfast.  The Holy Spirit wrought with me, and I soon found myself in the midst of a quiet revival.  The consequence was that I could not leave in the midst of my harvest, and a third month would include Thanksgiving Day.  Rev. Dr. George W. Field, at that time one of the most popular preachers in Maine, and a very dear friend to me, young though I was, wrote me that he was coming to spend Thanksgiving at his childhood's home, and I need not be at the trouble to prepare a Thanksgiving sermon, for he would come and preach for me.  I gave this good news to the people and it was welcomed with much enthusiasm.  So, on Thanksgiving morning I started <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>As a matter of fact, with my best endeavor we were a little late, and I found the church crowded.  On my way I was pleading with Jesus His promise, which, while not designed to encourage laziness, was apposite to my condition (Matt. 10:19): "Be not anxious how or when ye shall speak: for it shall be given you in that hour what ye shall speak."  I had not reached the point of appropriating to myself the following sentence, "For it is not ye that speak, but the Spirit of your Father that speaketh in you."  This, I supposed was to be fulfilled only in the age of miracles.  There came to my mind a thought which I had welcomed and hoped that I might prepare a sermon about: The help which a vivid sense of the presence of Christ with us would give, and the loss we sustain when living without this.  Nothing, however, came to me to say about it.</P>
111.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>I entered the church and stated my disappointment, adding that I had learned nothing which would help me to understand it.  I then led them in the invocation and selecting a hymn at random announced it and sat down, opening the pulpit Bible on my lap, and my eye fell on Isaiah 45:15: "Verily thou art a God that hideth thyself, O God of Israel, the Saviour."  I could not have found a better text than that upon which to found my message; and so, determined to read a portion of that chapter as our Scripture lesson, I replaced the Bible and had time to find a good Thanksgiving hymn.  I read the lesson and led them in a prayer of Thanksgiving and announced the hymn; but so far as I now recollect, I had not even one sentence in mind to follow the announcement of the text.  But it was given me what I should speak.  Utterly free from embarrassment, suitable thoughts and a suitable expression of them came to me, and through me to the people.  When the service ended, the people thronged about me, declaring that they were glad that Doctor Field did not come; and I myself, as I look back upon it, could conceive no possible improvement of it, either as to the order of the thought or the language used, and I thanked the Master for fulfilling His promise.  But I did not take the gracious hint He gave in His explanation of His promise: "It is not ye that speak, but the Spirit of your Father that speaketh in you."  Today I call it <HI REND="italics">prophecy</HI>
111.sgm:<P>I venture to give another quite recent experience, even more conclusive in respect to this gift of prophecy, i.e. forthtelling.</P>
111.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>It is less than three years since I was requested to go to Suisun City, to take the place on Sunday of a brother who was conducting the Sunday services in our church there till a permanent pastor could be secured, but who had suddenly become sick.  I had greatly enjoyed the day.  It was in a new, very comely and convenient house of worship dedicated the Sunday preceding, that I was to meet the people.  I had visited the Sunday School and almost fell in love with those who wrought in it, and especially with the class which, in the absence of its teacher, I had taught.  I had preached at the morning service eye to eye with every person present--such attention as always makes preaching a royal feast for the preacher; and a part of the afternoon had been spent with two highly esteemed friends.</P>
111.sgm:<P>At length, when I was returning to my room to think through, as is my habit before conducting a service, what has been given me to say, in ascending quite a long stairway more rapidly, in my unusual buoyancy, than was discreet, I swooned the first and only time in my life, and falling unconscious on the steps rolled down a considerable distance.  When I resumed consciousness, I saw a lady and gentleman trying to lift me.  With their help I reached my room, and little realizing the extent of my injury I began to try to think and found it impossible.  My brain would not work at all.  I suppose that my head had fallen heavily on each stair in my descent, and the brain had been shaken too hard and too many times.</P>
111.sgm:<P>I observed that it was raining, and comforted myself that very few would come and be disappointed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>And now, if any of my brethren in the ministry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P>Many years ago I was for a few days in Boston and had an opportunity to attend a service in the old Park Street Church.  Its pastor at that time was thought to be a coming compeer of Henry Ward Beecher.  The great auditorium was so full that I was glad to find a seat in a corner of the rear gallery <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:as far removed from the speaker as any one could be.  But I could hear what he was saying, and almost immediately felt that he was conversing with me.  At the same time, the unusually close attention indicated that every other person present had the same feeling.  As I listened, I prayed that the Spirit of God would enable me in like simple, social way to give my hearers the message, week by week, which Jesus might commit to me.  And it was not long before kind people, coming up to me after a service to bid me welcome or say farewell, began to express themselves not as impressed by any eloquence or interested in any beauty of expression, but said simply, "I liked your <HI REND="italics">talk</HI>
111.sgm:<BACK><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
111.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
111.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Enough that blessings undeserved<LB>Have marked my erring track;<LB>That wheresoe'er my feet have swerved,<LB>His chastening turned me back.</HI>
111.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">That more and more a Providence<LB>Of love is understood,<LB>Making the springs of time and sense<LB>Sweet with eternal good;--</HI>
111.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">That death seems but a covered way<LB>Which opens into light,<LB>Wherein no blinded child can stray<LB>Beyond the Father's sight;</HI>
111.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">That care and trial seem at last,<LB>Through Memory's sunset air,<LB>Like mountain-ranges overpast,<LB>In purple distance fair;</HI>
111.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">That all the jarring notes of life<LB>Seem blending in a psalm,<LB>And all the angles of its strife<LB>Slow rounding into calm.</HI>
111.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">And so the shadows fall apart,<LB>And so the west winds play;<LB>And all the windows of my heart<LB>I open to the day.<LB></HI>
111.sgm:<P>JOHN GREENLEAF WHITTIER.</P>
113.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-113</TITLE>
113.sgm:<TITLE>The narrative of a Japanese; what he has seen and the people he has met in the course of the last forty years. By Joseph Heco. Edited by James Murdoch: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
113.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
113.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
113.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
113.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
113.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
113.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
113.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>52-53301</LCCN>
113.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
113.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
113.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>THE NARRATIVE OF A JAPANESE.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>THE</P>
113.sgm:<P>NARRATIVE</P>
113.sgm:<P>OF A</P>
113.sgm:<P>JAPANESE;</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">What he has seen and the people he has met in the</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">course of the last forty years</HI>
113.sgm:<P>BY</P>
113.sgm:<P>JOSEPH HECO.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Edited</P>
113.sgm:<P>BY</P>
113.sgm:<P>JAMES MURDOCH, M.A.</P>
113.sgm:<P>VOL. I.</P>
113.sgm:<P>(FROM THE TIME OF HIS BEING CASTAWAY IN 1850 DOWN TO THE FIGHT OF SHIMONOSEKI.)</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>PRINTED BY THE YOKOHAMA PRINTING &amp; PUBLISHING CO., LT'D.</P>
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113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>Some time in the spring of 1892, I was handed eight thin but closely-written note-books, with a request that I should extract from them all that was of more than purely personal interest, and if I deemed the excerpts so made worthy of being made public, to see to the publication of the same.  The first two of these volumes contained all that the writer could recall of his childhood in old Japan, of his being cast-away and picked up and taken to America, and of what befell him there.  The remaining six formed a portion of the regular diary which Mr. Heco has kept ever since the time he began to write English.  Dealing as they do with such stirring themes as the opening of the Treaty Ports, and life in them at a time when all the pomp and splendour of the old feudal Japan which has now so utterly passed away were daily before men's eyes, at a time when it was not good for folks to walk abroad at night without an armed guard, at a time when the social and political fabric of centuries was surely tottering to its fall, the pages of these note-books are of more than mere passing interest.  From his official <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>II</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Then there are visits to the U.S. in the troublous times of the Great War, and LINCOLN and SEWARD, and SUMNER, and BROOKE of <HI REND="italics">Merrimac</HI>
113.sgm: fame appear to play their part in the story.  Later, on Mr. Heco's return to Japan, we have a faithful record of how one feels on shipboard when the round shot are whizzing in the rigging, for the Interpreter of the Consulate was on board the <HI REND="italics">Wyoming</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Nothing in the sense of Mr. Heco's diary has been changed in the setting forth of his story.  I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>III</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>JAMES MURDOCH.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<illus entity="a113-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">My Birth Place</HI>
113.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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113.sgm:<HEAD>I.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>I was born in the Island Empire of Japan, in the village of Komiya in the Province of Harima in the Sanyo&macr;do&macr; on the shore of the Harima Nada.  The Harima Nada is the easternmost reach of the famous Inland Sea, that beautiful land-locked stretch of water which separates the main island from the smaller ones of Shikoku and Kiushiu.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At the time of my birth in 1837, Komiya was a good-sized village of some four or five hundred houses, with from 2,000 to 2,500 inhabitants; it has now dwindled to about one-seventh of its former size and importance.  The majority of its people were farmers; the remainder were fishermen, sailors and traders.</P>
113.sgm:<P>My father was a well-to-do farmer.  He died some twelve months after I was born, and my mother a few years after his death re-married into a family in the adjoining town of Hamada.  The inhabitants of this place were also principally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>My parents had two sons, of whom I was the younger.  From his youth my brother had always been very fond of roving, and at last my step-father seeing the impossibility of keeping the boy quietly at home, apprenticed him at the age of 16 to his uncle, the captain of a large junk trading between O&macr;saka and Yedo.  The lad was quick to master his work, and in a few years' time he had worked himself up to be second officer on his uncle's vessel.</P>
113.sgm:<P>All this time I remained quietly at home, and went to school.  But I am afraid there was a good deal of the rover in my disposition too.  Whenever my brother came home he used to deliver himself of the story of his travels to the family and to our neighbours.  He would tell of his voyages to different places, and of the adventures that had befallen him, perhaps sometimes touching up his pictures a trifle with a little extra colour as travellers are wont to do.</P>
113.sgm:<P>He would repeat to us the strange stories he used to hear from the still stranger people he had met--people who had ways so different from our own (my townsmen), for in these days the means of communication and travel were very different from the railways, steamers, and telegraphs of to-day, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>One day, I bit by bit disclosed to my mother my wish to go to sea.  She asked me, as how many mothers have done in all parts of the world, what reason I had for quitting a comfortable home and going to sea, where I was sure to be miserable, when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>My mother said; "I have no objection to your going to see new places and novel things, but you know that you are too young to go far away from home.  Besides, sea life is not so very pleasant, nor is it considered so very respectable, unless one works up to be a Captain, or at least an officer.  For youngsters have to go through a long and generally a very disagreeable apprenticeship.  If I were to let you go to sea, and there should be bad weather, I would be very anxious for you as well as for your brother, and your step-father.  It is enough for me to worry about them, as I now do continually.  So for these reasons I dislike your idea of following the sea as a calling, and can never allow you to carry it out."</P>
113.sgm:<P>She added further that she was thinking of putting me into one of the commercial houses in Hiogo.  This she thought would be advantageous to both my brother and myself, since commerce and shipping go together, and we should then be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>In the beginning of the 3rd moon of the 3rd year of Kayei, that is to say about April 1850, my cousin came home in his little craft of about 100 <HI REND="italics">koku</HI>
113.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
113.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">(<HI REND="italics">Koku</HI>
113.sgm:, a measure of quantity--equalling about 333 1/3 lbs., or 16.8 <HI REND="italics">koku</HI>
113.sgm:<P>It can well be imagined that I was delighted with his success.  I felt very glad and happy at the prospect of seeing something new, and I set to work, as only an excited boy can, to make preparations for my departure.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When the day came, I bade my mother <HI REND="italics">Sayonara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Here I was warmly welcomed by the passengers.  They made a great favorite of me during the entire voyage, thus greatly increasing the pleasure of the trip.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We set sail and stood off in a westerly direction for our destination.  To me the excitement of being at last fairly on my way into that strange world of which I had heard so much, was so great that I can re-call every little incident of the trip at this day, and although they are trivial details which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In due course we came to anchor in the port of Marugame.  Here our passengers went ashore and took up their quarters at a hotel in the town, while we set our little vessel to rights and moored her properly, before sitting down to supper.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Marugame and the neighbouring town of Tadotsu, serve as starting points for pilgrimages to the celebrated temple of Kompira, near Kotohira, about two miles to the south-east of the former.  Kotohira may number about 5,000 inhabitants.  It is full of roomy hostelries.  In one of these over several hundred pilgrims dine every day during the season.  Their goal is the temple of Kompira, or as he is now commonly styled in the official Shinto worship, Kotohira.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On the morning after our arrival, the Captain, one of the crew, and myself, landed and started on foot for Kompira.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The road for some distance was broad, level and in good repair.  About eleven o'clock we came to the foot of the hill which is crowned by the Temple.  On our way we passed several pack-horses with goods or passengers, and many cripples and beggars by the wayside whining for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After a few minutes' rest at one of the little inns at the foot of the hill, and passing the long rows of houses with their rosaries, idols, chopsticks of wood and bamboo, and hundreds of other articles for sale, we came to the stone steps and ascended to the chief temple.  When we got to the top we found several shrines scattered over the plateau.  There were also a bell-tower, an " <HI REND="italics">Emado</HI>
113.sgm: " (the place in Shinto temples where <HI REND="italics">ex votos</HI>
113.sgm: are hung), a tank of water for lustration before worshipping (as is required by the Shinto ritual), a life-sized bronze horse to which rice is offered, and lanterns of stone, and bronze.  From the foot of the hill to the top, the road was in excellent repair, and most of the way the steps were of stone, with stone railings on both sides.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:These stone railings, the lanters, the bronze horse, etc., were all <HI REND="italics">ex-votos</HI>
113.sgm:<P>I was told that the temple was founded by a man named Ku&macr;kai, better known by his posthumous title of Ko&macr;-bo&macr; Dai-shi, about one thousand years ago.  The hill on which it stands is called the Elephant's Head, for the reason that the shape of the mountain closely resembles the head of that animal; it is said that the mountain in shape and general appearance is not unlike one in some part of India also called by the same name.  The lanterns on the top when lighted at night, look like the eyes of an elephant.  The god or saint to whom the temple is dedicated, is said to have been one of the 600 Rakan.  He is called Kompira Jino.  His face wore a scowling lowering expression, it being his duty to look after the behaviour of the people as our police do now.  When he was alive he swore that he would control the sea for ever, and for that reason all native mariners worship this god; they all make an effort to visit this temple, but when this is impossible they rest contented with the services which they offer before the image (or wooden board with an inscription) which they set up in the <HI REND="italics">Kami-dana</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After we got to the top of the mountain, we washed our hands and rinsed our mouths with water from the font provided for that purpose, according to the requirements of the Shinto religion which teach that one must always come to the shrine with clean hands and a pure mouth.  We then went up to the shrine, made our offerings and prayed.  Next we went all round the place <illus entity="a113-0003" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
113.sgm:and looked at its various wonders.  Afterwards we descended to the foot of the hill, entered one of the inns, and ordered dinner.  After dinner we sallied out into the village streets and bought some <HI REND="italics">Mi-yage&acute;</HI>
113.sgm: (presents); it being to my mind one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:of the prettiest of our country's customs that whenever a person goes away from home, particularly if bent on pleasure, he shall take back to all the members of the household whom he leaves behind, some memento (not necessarily more than a trifle) of the places he has visited.  Our purchases completed and the sights of the place exhausted, we hired a pack horse for half a <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm: (or 16 6/10 cents, say six-pence) to carry all three of us back to Marugame, a distance of three <HI REND="italics">ri</HI>
113.sgm:<P>This was the first time in my life that I had ever ridden a horse, and the novel sensation afforded me much pleasure and excitement.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We found that our passengers wished to extend their charter of our vessel so as to visit the sacred Island of Miyajima, further west in the Inland Sea, and then to return eastward as far as the port of Muro in the province of Harima.</P>
113.sgm:<P>To this the captain agreed.  So we sailed out of the little harbour of Marugame on the 12th day of the fourth moon, bound for Miyajima, a distance of 50 <HI REND="italics">ri</HI>
113.sgm: (125 English miles), and arrived there safely on the 21st day of the same month.  On our way, we passed through the beautiful little Strait Ondo.  Tradition says that when Kiyomori was at the height of his power, he met the goddess of Miyajima and made love to her.  But she rejected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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113.sgm:<P>It is all owing to this very cause, the fishermen say, that the current in this Strait behaves so strangely even unto this day.  For it runs very swiftly for a while in one direction, stops suddenly and for about fifteen minutes runs in the opposite direction, and then resumes its regular course for a considerably longer period.  This phenomenon we experienced as we passed both going and returning.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We soon reached the famous island of Miyajima.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Our passengers all went ashore to visit the Temple and I went with them.  The island, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>It is 7 <HI REND="italics">ri</HI>
113.sgm: in circumference and about one <HI REND="italics">ri</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The island sweeps up very high (about 1,500 ft.) and rocky; heavily wooded, but with scarcely any cultivatable land, although there are many beautiful little vales opening to the sea.  In them among groves of maple, nestle the inns, tea-houses, and dwellings of the fishermen and image-carvers who, with the priests and innkeepers, make up the population of the isle to the number of some 3,000 in all.  The principal Temple stands on the beach.  A portion of it is built upon piles in the water, so that at high tide you can enter it by boat.  At some distance out in the water rises a large wooden <HI REND="italics">Tori-i</HI>
113.sgm:, or portal, such as one finds at the entrance to all Shinto temples on shore,--for since the restoration of the Emperor (Mikado) to full temporal power, the two religions, Buddhism <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>I have wandered away from my narrative and must now return.  The day after our arrival at Miyajima, when we had pretty well exhausted the sights of the place and had bought our <HI REND="italics">Miyage</HI>
113.sgm:, our passengers hired a six-oared boat in order to cross to Su-wo&macr; where they wished to see the bridge called <HI REND="italics">Kintai</HI>
113.sgm:<P>This bridge in one of the famous sights of Japan, and many people from all parts of the country flock to see it.  It crosses the river Nishi-ki-gawa, near the town of Iwakuni, in the province of Su-wo&macr;, by five spans on stone abutments and piers.  Although it has been repaired from time to time, it still shows the old style of bridge architecture.  Each arch is made of large timbers, strangely curved, and solidly bolted together; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the latter part of the fourth moon we sailed for home.  We called at the port of Tomo in the province of Bingo, at the request of our passengers, who wished to purchase some of the sweet <HI REND="italics">sake&acute;</HI>
113.sgm: called <HI REND="italics">Homei-shu</HI>
113.sgm: which is made there, and which is famous for its flavour and for its quality of keeping sound for a long time.  Most travellers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:who come thus far from the Eastern provinces, buy quantities of this <HI REND="italics">sake&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:<P>We stayed at Tomo two days, and then made for Muro-tsu in the province of Banshu.  Here we landed our passengers and bade them farewell, as they were to return home overland, in order to see the <HI REND="italics">Mei-sho</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After the passengers had left, we cleaned up our little vessel, and on the 3rd day we sailed for home.  We arrived there on the 15th day of the fifth moon, having been away exactly fifty-six days, during which time we had traversed about 80 <HI REND="italics">ri</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>When we landed at our village my mother was there anxiously awaiting my return.  She welcomed me warmly, embraced me affectionately, and took me home to our house.  There I related all I had seen, described the places I had visited, and presented my " <HI REND="italics">Miyage&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After I had told her all about the journey, I went out to see some of my neighbours and to distribute some " <HI REND="italics">Miyage&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:."  While I was repeating to them what I had told my mother, one of the family in whose house I was at the time came rushing swiftly in and told me to go home at once as my mother had been taken suddenly ill and was suffering greatly.  I thought she was joking and said that it was impossible, since I had left my mother well and hearty only a few minutes before.  But the woman declared that she was in earnest and advised me to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>I hastened home to find my mother lying on the floor mats, groaning and vomiting.  I asked those present what the matter was, but none could tell me how or why she had become so ill.  Then I knelt down beside her and asked what was wrong; she opened her eyes, looked at me for a moment, and then took a bunch of keys from the fold of her <HI REND="italics">obi</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Then for the first time I became thoroughly alarmed and began to realize that her condition was something serious; and this caused me to wonder what I should do, if she did not recover from the attack.</P>
113.sgm:<P>While I was thus thinking two physicians for whom the neighbours had sent, came in one after the other.  They both examined the patient, and after some conversation pronounced her illness to be " <HI REND="italics">sotchiu</HI>
113.sgm:," a kind of apoplexy.  They at once mixed some medicine from the remedies in the medicine chest which they had brought with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>On the third day the doctors consulted and decided to try to bleed her by making a cut in the lobe of her ear.  But nothing came from it.  After this they asked for some gold and silver coins.  My aunt came to me for them, so I got the bunch of keys, which my mother had given to me, and opened the safe, where I found some <HI REND="italics">koban</HI>
113.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">nibu</HI>
113.sgm:, (gold coins equalling respectively a tael and a half tael) and some <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm: (silver coins=1/4 of a <HI REND="italics">koban </HI>
113.sgm: ) which I handed to the doctors.  They selected one <HI REND="italics">koban</HI>
113.sgm:, one gold <HI REND="italics">nibu</HI>
113.sgm:, and one silver <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm:.  These they gave to my aunt with instructions to put them into a pint of water, and to boil it down until there was from a half to three-quarters of a pint of liquid, which was to be given to the patient.  Their instructions were carefully obeyed.  But whatever efficacy there might have been in this remedy was entirely lost, for the patient did not swallow any of it, because her teeth were clenched so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:tightly that we could not open her mouth.  At length my aunt suggested, as was usual in such cases, that as my mother's chance of recovery under the doctor's treatment was very slight, I had better visit the local temple ( <HI REND="italics">Wujigami</HI>
113.sgm:<P>During the time of my mother's illness, I attended her closely and never left her bed-side, except to visit the temple to pray to the gods to spare her life and to make my vows.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When she died I felt very sad and lonely, since she was the person in the whole wide world of whom I thought the most.  Besides, my brother and step-father were then away from home.  The only relative near me was my aunt who had come over to the house when my mother was first taken ill, and had stayed there ever since.  But she would not take the responsibility of the household upon herself.  She wished me to take charge of everything, and to keep the keys until my step-father came home.  Thus I was made to keep house at the early age of thirteen.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The third day after my mother's death her funeral took place according to the Buddhist ceremonies, for in those days all burials were performed according to the Buddhist rites.  Shinto burial never took place.  The Shinto religion was considered pure at that time, and death was supposed to be unclean for the living.  For that reason, if any death occurred in a house the family shrines were generally closed for 75 days at least, and none of the inmates were allowed to pray to the gods.  Thus Shintoism was. for the living and Buddhism for the dead.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The funeral was a grand affair for our little village.  Our relatives came from far and near, and the whole of the towns-people gathered themselves together, for my mother had been much respected by the villagers.  She was very well educated for a woman in those days, and her knowledge had enabled her to be of assistance to them in many ways.  She was very kind to them at all times and having some means at her command, she was able to be charitable to the sick and the poor.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About a fortnight after my mother's funeral, my step-father came home.  His vessel had returned from Yedo to Hiogo, and he had received a letter at the latter place, notifying him of the death of his wife.  I felt very glad to see him since he had always been a very kind father to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<illus entity="a113-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Funeral Procession</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:me.  After his return, we lived quietly at home, as was customary, during the <HI REND="italics">Ki-chiu</HI>
113.sgm:<P>One day he asked me whether I would stay at home and keep house with my aunt and go to school, or go with him on a trip to Yedo.  I replied that I would like to visit Yedo, if he would take me, since my wish was to see that great city.  He said he would take me and leave the house in charge of my aunt.  This trip to Yedo was just what I had long been wishing for, as it would give me a chance to see more new places and things, and my journey to Miyajima had only whetted my appetite for travel.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>About the beginning of the 9th moon ( <HI REND="italics">i.e.</HI>
113.sgm: towards the latter part of 1850 A.D.) I set sail in my step-father's junk, the <HI REND="italics">Sumiyoshi-maru</HI>
113.sgm:, from Hiogo, bound for Yedo, with a cargo of <HI REND="italics">sake&acute;</HI>
113.sgm: and other articles.  The vessel was classed at 1,600 <HI REND="italics">koku</HI>
113.sgm: (about 238 odd tons) carrying capacity, and was about the largest sized junk of those days.  She was owned by a wealthy <HI REND="italics">sake&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:<P>We skirted the northern shore of the Kii Channel, and in a few days rounded Cape Oshima.  Then the weather became rainy and the wind contrary; so we put into the port of Kuki in the province of Shima (usually known as Kumano), a deep-water and beautiful harbour.  Here we remained a few days, waiting for clear weather and a fair wind.  While we were there another junk, the <HI REND="italics">Eiriki-maru</HI>
113.sgm:, came in.  She was quite new, of about the same size as ourselves and belonged to a relative of our owner.  She came from the same place, and was bound on the same voyage as the <HI REND="italics">Sumiyoshi</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The Captain, and some of the officers and men of this new arrival were from towns near my home.  They knew who I was and something of my history, and as they rather admired my boyish pluck in choosing a sailor's life, they made quite a pet of me.  When the fair weather set in, and we were ready to sail for Yedo, they invited me to go with them in their new vessel to visit the great Capital.  I asked my father whether I could go with them.  He objected on the ground that I was too young to go so far away with other people.  Then the Captain and officers of the <HI REND="italics">Eiriki</HI>
113.sgm: came and asked my father's consent to my going with them, promising to take good care of me, to show me the city, and to return me safe and sound when we should next be in company.  My father at length consented and I changed from his vessel to the new one, and setting sail in her, arrived at Yedo over a fortnight earlier than the <HI REND="italics">Sumiyoshi-maru</HI>
113.sgm:<P>While the vessel remained at Yedo, I had an opportunity of seeing the immediate ancestor of the modern Tokio, but the city which I saw forty years ago is as different from the Tokio of to-day in most respects as can be well imagined.  At that time there was absolutely no trace of intercourse with foreigners; now one finds kerosene oil and lamps for sale in the most out-of-the way lanes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>For a few days after arriving at Shinagawa, the port properly speaking of the city, although not in any way separated from the rest of the place, we were all very busy--the officers in going about to deliver cargo, or to notify consignees to take delivery and to find out cargo for the return voyage; the crew in handling the cargo and looking after the vessel.  After a while, when the rush was somewhat over, I was taken ashore by the officers.  We entered the mouth of the Sumida and ascended to the landing place.  The stream was crowded with vessels of all sizes; the shore was lined along almost its entire course with Godowns (fire-proof warehouses), and the place had all the busy look of a great metropolis.  In the distance we saw the walls and watch-towers of the castle, at that time the residence of the Shogun Iye-yoshi, and at intervals over the large city that lay spread out before us, rose the high roofs of many temples with the huge parabolic sweep of their black-tiled roofs.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The first officer of the <HI REND="italics">Eiriki-maru</HI>
113.sgm:, one of the crew and myself started out to see some of the sights of the great city.  We first went to the temple at Asakusa.  This temple is the Higashi <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<illus entity="a113-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Temple of Asakusa</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:Hongwanji, or Metropolitan of the Eastern Branch of the Monto sect of the Buddhists.  Thousands of people were passing to and fro, and the crowd was so thick that I was not at all at ease.  Therefore I held fast to the hand of the first officer and looked first to one side and then to the other to see all I could.  There were many shops in front of the temple, between it and the first two-storied red-painted gate-way with its great carved figures, and huge lanterns depending from its entrance.  There was a splendid Pagoda within the enclosure.  After visiting this temple we went to "Oku-yama," or the inner mount, with its tea-stands and houses in the midst of groves of large evergreen trees (now all gone and re-placed with small ones, and no hill now to be seen).  And all around were story-tellers, acrobats, jugglers, street-players, archery-galleries, and <HI REND="italics">Nozo-ki-ye</HI>
113.sgm: (stereoscopic views).  We saw all these and returned to our quarters on shore (the <HI REND="italics">Tonya</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Next day I went with another of our officers to a temple called "Ten-jin" at Kame-ido (now famous for its wonderful Wistaria vines).  This was a fine and beautiful structure, with a peculiar bridge, called <HI REND="italics">Sori-hashi</HI>
113.sgm:, over a pond called <HI REND="italics">Shin-ji-no-Ike</HI>
113.sgm:, or `Pond of the Word Heart,' on account of a supposed resemblance to [Symbol] for heart; the Chinese character for `heart.'  In the pond were large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:numbers of black and red carp.  Visitors buy cakes and throw them to the fish which come up to show themselves.  The pond was literally alive with hundreds of small turtles ( <HI REND="italics">Kame</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The next day we went to the theatre.  There were three theatres in one place, in grand style--to my thinking then.  We saw the play of " <HI REND="italics">Anchin Kiyohime</HI>
113.sgm:<P>All this does not seem very much to have seen in three days, but Yedo was, as Tokio now is, a city of magnificent distances, and we went on foot, for in those days there were no easy means of communication such as tramcars, omnibuses, or jinrikisha.  And had we not walked, we should have been compelled to go in <HI REND="italics">norimono</HI>
113.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">kago</HI>
113.sgm: (palanquins or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>That was all I saw of Yedo, and when those trips were finished, the <HI REND="italics">Eiriki</HI>
113.sgm: was about ready for her return voyage.  On the 20th day of the tenth moon we set sail homeward bound.  My step-father's vessel the <HI REND="italics">Sumiyoshi-maru</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>V.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>On our way down Yedo bay we passed the village of Kanagawa and the insignificant fishing hamlet of Yokohama.  But of course there was nothing about them then to attract our special attention.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In former times all junks entering the Bay of Yedo were stopped at Uraga for examination.  The first expedition from the U.S. of America to Japan had entered the harbour of Uraga, in 1846.  It consisted of the ship-of-the-line <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
113.sgm: and the corvette <HI REND="italics">Vincennes</HI>
113.sgm:, under command of Commodore Biddle, U.S.N.  It caused great excitement among the nobles and officers of the Government.  My step-father's junk happened to be in the harbour at the time and was pressed for service by the native authorities as one of the several hundred guard-boats which surrounded the strangers.  While I was at home I often heard my father tell the story and speak of the fear he felt at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:encountering the strange visitors.  That expedition remained ten days.  No one was allowed to land, and the answer to the President's letter consisted of the simple sentence; <HI REND="italics">No trade can be permitted with any other country than Holland</HI>
113.sgm:.  This reply probably came from the Shogun, and not from the Mikado, as has been stated; for besides the fact that the Mikado at that time was not actively engaged in affairs of state, the interval which elapsed between the arrival of the foreign vessels and their departure was not sufficient to permit of communicating with Kioto, the Imperial residence, and getting a reply, for it is over 400 miles from Uraga.  Many years afterwards, the story I heard from my step-father was corroborated by the First Lieutenant of the man-of-war <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:, when I was crossing the Pacific from San Francisco to Hongkong.  He told us, through an interpreter, that his uncle was the Commodore who visited Uraga in 1846 in the frigate <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
113.sgm:, and that while that ship and the <HI REND="italics">Vincennes</HI>
113.sgm: were there they were continually surrounded by a number of native vessels.  One day his uncle wished to see the inside of one of the native war-junks.  So he went off in his gig, climbed up the side of the junk, and was just about to put foot on her gangway, when one of the two-sworded men ( <HI REND="italics">samurai</HI>
113.sgm: ) pushed him back into his boat.  In his fall he hurt a limb, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>We remained long enough at Uraga to complete our cargo, and about the 26th day of the same moon we set sail again.  The first few days the wind was from the S.W. and contrary, so we were compelled to beat about the coast of the provinces of Sagami and Izu without making much headway.  But on the 29th the wind changed to the N.E. and then to the E. and became fair.  On the 30th the weather was fine, the wind was light from E. and S.E.--being fair for our course,--and we were going along nicely with all sails set and yards nearly squared.  At sundown the weather had every appearance of continuing fine, so our Captain decided to cross Owari Bay or To&macr;to&macr;mi Nada, from Omai-saki in To&macr;-to&macr;mi to Oshima in Ki-i, instead of stopping at one of the harbours of the province of Ise, as was usual at that time of the year with such wind and weather--for the native mariners know well that if the wind gets to the E. and S.E. during the winter, the 10th, 11th and 12th moons, although the weather may be fine for a while, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>But about 8 o'clock in the evening it became very dark, and rain commenced to fall, and the S.E. wind increased in force apace until at 9 o'clock it was blowing a gale, and we had to lower our sail by degrees so that in a short time we were carrying only a little sail just a few feet from the deck.  A little while after this I was lying in my bunk half asleep, not knowing exactly what was going on; the vessel rolled greatly and the roar of the wind and sea was such as I had never heard before.  This awoke me completely, yet I could scarcely realize the situation until I looked out of the cabin.  Then I saw the angry waves rolling as high as mountains.  I became alarmed and most inexpressibly sick.  I seriously reflected upon what I had done in leaving my father's vessel; I also remembered what my mother had told me so often, that the sea-life would make me miserable.  While I was thus reflecting, some of the crew and the Captain passed my bunk saying <HI REND="italics">Namu-Amida-Butsu, Namu-Amida-Butsu</HI>
113.sgm:.  (These Indian words meaning `Hail <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Meanwhile the storm became worse, and the seas rose higher and higher.  Although nothing like what I have since seen several times, yet it was enough to trouble me very much then, for I had never known anything of the kind before.  I expected every wave would swallow us up, and that every time the junk plunged down into the trough of the sea, she would never rise more; and in this agony of mind, I made many vows and resolutions that if it would please the gods to spare my life this voyage, and in their gracious mercy permit me to set foot on dry land once again, I would never more set out in a ship while I lived.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About 3 o'clock in the morning the rain which had been coming down in torrents ceased and the wind somewhat abated, although the sea continued to run high.  At daybreak I looked out and saw several junks running in the same direction as ourselves, all labouring and in sore difficulties.  Some were near to us, some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>By 7 o'clock the S.E. wind had died away completely, so our Captain ordered the crew to hoist the sail.  But while the men were at the capstan (for the heavy duck sail can only be hoisted in that way), in a moment of time, a new and fierce wind from the N.W. burst upon us with twofold strength, and violence; so we had to lower the sail instead of hoisting it, and were compelled to fasten yard and sail alike on deck to prevent them from being blown away into the sea.  We changed our course to S.E. and ran the vessel before the new wind, but she rolled tremendously because of her tall and heavy mast and pitched heavily against the S.E. sea which was still running high.  Although now we had not a stitch of canvas on, we drove along at about 3 or 4 knots per hour.  About noon we had to jettison a part of our cargo of barley and peas to the amount of 200 bales, in order to lighten the vessel and to keep the mast from rolling out of her.  She took in water from both sides as she rolled, and we had to be at the pump all the time.  About 3 o'clock in the afternoon we sighted land on our right.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:to cut it away before the night came on.  In about 15 or 20 minutes after commencing to cut, the great mast fell clean off into the sea and we felt much relief, as our vessel rolled less and it was much easier to steer her.  The N.W. wind lasted until 11 o'clock at night, when it became almost a dead calm.  So with the exception of those who were to steer the vessel and keep watch we all retired for the night, fatigued with the labours and anxiety of the day.  I went on deck after the gale had died <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The first day of the eleventh moon broke fine and clear, with a bright sky and a light morning breeze.  The sea had lost all its angry appearance and not a cloud was to be seen.  Our crew got up early in order to clean away the wreckage, repair the sail, and put the vessel in some condition to get back home.  After breakfast the men made a jury mast and set what sail they could.  There was no land in sight, but we steered a course due North, as we supposed our country was in that direction, since we had stood to the southward all the previous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After our jury-mast had been rigged and the canvas properly set, we all washed our hands and rinsed our mouths, and offered thanks to the gods for our deliverance and prayed to be restored to our homes.</P>
113.sgm:<P>A little after noon a sail hove in sight to the southward, under full canvas, and in about an hour's time she came up to us and passed on to the north, about five miles away.  Some of our men suggested that we should make signals of distress in order to be taken on board of her, as she appeared to be in a much better condition than we, and her chance of getting back to our country was far greater than ours.  But the majority of us did not favour the suggestion, since we did not know what condition she was in as to her hull and provisions; whereas our vessel was new and sound and had water and stores sufficient to last for several months.  So we concluded not to make any signals or to try to transfer ourselves, but to stand by our own vessel and take our chances.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VI.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>The morning of the 2nd day broke fine and clear, but the West wind continued and there was a considerable sea running.  About the middle of the afternoon we sighted land ahead.  We did not know what it was, but we steered straight toward it.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Third day, 11th moon</HI>
113.sgm:<P>We looked at the island for a long while to see if there was any smoke rising, but we did not see any, and from that fact we supposed it to be uninhabited.  After breakfast we consulted as to whether it was advisable to land or not.  Some thought it was best to land, while others were opposed to doing so.  Those who wished to land gave as their reason that we had but little chance of getting back to our native country in our present condition, and said that we did not know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>At this point (as was our custom in such a case of uncertainty) one of the crew went before the shrine in the cabin, prayed and took <HI REND="italics">mikuji</HI>
113.sgm:, (a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:form of divination by a number of sticks, used to ascertain the mind of the <HI REND="italics">Kami</HI>
113.sgm:, "gods") to see whether it was advisable to land or to remain on board.  The sign came out "to land," and this was reported to us where we were gathered together.  Then another went to the shrine and again took <HI REND="italics">mikuji</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Owing to these conflicting <HI REND="italics">mikuji</HI>
113.sgm:, a sharp discussion arose among the officers and crew as to what we were to do.  At last one of the officers took a final divination, and the sign came out "to land."  So after this last <HI REND="italics">mikuji</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"If the Captain remains, I shall not land but shall stay with him."</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then the discussion re-commenced and while they were talking time passed, and the Western breeze came up with force, so that our vessel began to drift away from the island.  This made it difficult and even dangerous to venture in the boat; therefore the idea of landing on that island was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Owing to the increased wind and sea, we had to get up early on the next day, in order to do something for the vessel.  As it was, it required three men at a time to steer her when she was running before the wind without a stitch of canvas.  After breakfast the officer and men consulted together and came to the conclusion that it was best to haul in the big rudder and drop two anchors at the bow.  This would keep the junk's head to the sea and let her steer herself by reason of her weight.  So we went to work and did as we decided.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After this was done, we felt much more comfortable than before, because the creaking of the rudder ceased and the junk rode at ease with the anchors at the bow to keep her head to the wind and sea.  The men made everything snug and secure about the decks; then they all washed their hands and rinsed out their mouths, and we all assembled before the shrine where we offered up our prayers.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After that some laid down to rest, but others began to grumble and express regret that they had not landed on the island, since our chance of being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the evening the wind died away, the sky was clear, the weather fine and the sea smooth, and that night we had a nice quiet rest.  Nothing of any importance occuring in the meantime, on the morning of the 9th day of the eleventh moon, the weather continuing fine with a light Southerly wind, we set up the jury mast and made sail.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Not knowing where we were, we steered for the N.W. until the 12th day, when the weather became rainy.  On the following day it cleared up with a strong Westerly gale which obliged us to take in sail, lower the jurymast, and let the vessel run before the wind.  During that day we experienced several hail squalls for the first time.  About 10 o'clock in the morning we had to jettison some of our cargo, for the sea ran so high that the vessel appeared heavy, and shipped water occasionally.  We threw out some 400 bales of peas and barley; this made her ride the seas with ease, and we felt much comfort.  It was one of the gloomy days, the time being passed alternately at the pumps and at prayers.  It appeared to me that this was the worst day since the junk had been blown away to sea on the 30th of the preceding moon.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The 15th day of the moon, the weather was fine, not a cloud to be seen in the sky.  We saw several fish playing about the vessel, and caught some mackerel ( <HI REND="italics">Sawara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On the following day the weather continued fine, and as we had nothing special to do to amuse ourselves, some of us went forward, opened the hatch-way and unpacked some of the boxes which formed part of the cargo.  We found some treasure, consisting of gold <HI REND="italics">kobans</HI>
113.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">nibus</HI>
113.sgm: and silver <HI REND="italics">bus</HI>
113.sgm: in packages, and <HI REND="italics">tempos</HI>
113.sgm: (copper pieces); we also found some walnuts.  After we saw the latter we put away the treasure and took the walnuts to the cabin where we began to press out the oil in the old style, obtaining about a pint of it.  Our oilpress consisted of a block of wood with a hole in the centre and small cuts at the bottom to let the oil <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The next day the weather still holding fine, we decided to distil some sea-water by fixing the wooden cover over a large iron pot used for boiling rice.  There were two grooves made crosswise inside the cover, against which the steam condensed, and by placing small cups on the sides of the pot at the end of each groove, we caught about a quart of fresh water in ten hours or so.  But to boil the salt water in that way required a great deal of fuel, so we stopped.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 24th day of the moon, the weather was fine and the sea calm.  But about noon, the wind came up from the westward and increased in force.  We noticed several sharks playing about our junk.  Some of our men were afraid of them, but other said that they were sent especially by the god " <HI REND="italics">Isobe</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The weather continued fine and the sea calm for the rest of this moon.  We had nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The 5th day of the 12th moon was another gloomy day for us.  It had been raining since the previous day, but in the morning the rain ceased, and a strong westerly breeze began to blow; this continued to increase until it became a perfect gale.  About ten o'clock in the morning we shipped a sea over the forward part of the vessel.  It broke into the forecastle, so we had to run back into the after cabin.  We all went to the pump and cleared out the water: then some repaired the damage, but some of the others (the eldest of our company) gave the junk up for lost altogether and would not work.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Others encouraged them by saying; "We are all safe!"  Although I was young and small, yet when I heard the elders give up so, I went to the pump and helped the rest to pump out the water.  About the middle of the afternoon the gale seemed to decrease, and by sunset it ceased and the sea soon returned to its former smoothness, when all hands went to work and made further repairs.  When everything was as snug as we could make it, and the chafing-gear of our anchor ropes had been changed, we went to supper and afterwards before turning in for the night thanked the gods for deliverance from the gale of the day.</P>
113.sgm:<P>This gale was not so severe as the previous one of the 13th of the last moon, but the sea ran high and crosswise, which caused our vessel to roll and creak terribly.  This made the men very uneasy about the safety of our junk.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">15th day of 12th moon</HI>
113.sgm:.  The weather was fine; although there was some wind yet it was nothing to be alarmed about.  We were talking and chatting in the cabin, when one of the mates went forward to look at the bow of the junk.  He thought the head of the vessel had dropped off and he rushed into the cabin and reported what he had seen,  saying " <HI REND="italics">Namu-Amida-Butsu</HI>
113.sgm: " and dropped on the floor of the cabin where we were.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>A few days after this we observed a peculiar large fish, swimming close to our junk.  We attempted to catch it, because we had never before seen or even heard of the existence of such a fish, but without success.  This fish, we learned afterwards, is called the Sun-fish; it looked like the head of a big " <HI REND="italics">Tai</HI>
113.sgm: " (Japanese name for the <HI REND="italics">Serranus Marginalis</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">19th day of 12th moon</HI>
113.sgm:.  This was another gloomy day for us.  It had been raining for a day or so, with a light southerly wind, but about 8 a.m. the wind began to haul to the westward and increased as the day advanced.  About ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:o'clock the rain ceased, and when I observed our two anchors at the bow, floating on the surface of the sea on account of the swiftness with which the vessel was drifting, driven by the force of the wind.  Every now and then the waves appeared as though they would swallow us up.  I was much frightened at the sight and I may say that this gale seemed to have been worse than any of the previous ones.  We were all at our prayers the whole day, but lucki&acute;ly nothing specially unfortunate happened.  About sunset the wind ceased, the sea became calm, and in the evening the sky was studded with stars, and everything looked as though no storm had ever raged.  After the gale had abated, the men inspected the vessel to see if any injury had been done.  They changed the <HI REND="italics">Sure&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">20th day of 12th moon</HI>
113.sgm:.  The weather was fine after the previous day's gale and the sea was as smooth as glass, with but a light morning breeze blowing.  After breakfast the men went to work to lighten the hull of the vessel, as we noticed that she began to creak more than we thought she should, and the nails seemed to have loosened greatly, owing, we presumed, to rolling so many days on the ocean without any rest.  They brought out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VII.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">21st day of 12th moon</HI>
113.sgm:<P>No sooner did we hear his words than everybody rushed out on deck to see what was in in sight, when lo! and behold! it was not a rock or an island at all, but the tall masts and white sails of a large vessel approaching us.  The sun was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:just rising and the light striking upon her sails made them stand out clear and white.  While we were looking at the approaching vessel and discussing what she might be, whither she was going, and whence she came, she gradually approached our junk closer and closer, until her black hull which lay low in the water appeared, and then in a few moments more she was abreast of our craft.  But the people on board of her seemed to take very little if any notice of us.  We could now clearly see her form and discovered that she had three very tall masts, with a large number of yards to which were fastened a great many sails, besides other three-cornered sails which hung from the masts in different positions.  The sails were all set.  Her officers and crew were on deck and appeared to be very different from any people we had ever before seen, or even heard of.  We were all more or less alarmed at the whole effect of the strange vessel so huge and black, and the strange creatures on board of her, who might be, for all we knew, no human beings at all.  Still we felt that we must not lose this chance of saving ourselves; so we shouted to the stranger in our native language; " <HI REND="italics">Save us, Save us</HI>
113.sgm:," and made signals with some old clothes fastened to bamboo poles.  The stranger quickly recognized these signals and the men on board made signs with their hands to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:"<HI REND="italics">Come off, Come off</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After we saw that she was waiting to save us, we began to prepare to leave the old junk forever.  At this point some of the crew began to say that if the strangers were such people as we were told of in old story-books, it would not be advisable to go, and to make all sorts of foolish objections.  But one of the ship's company, who had been to Nagasaki where he had seen the black vessels of the Hollanders, said that the strange vessel must be a Hollander either going home to Holland from Nagasaki, or on its way to that port from Holland, Others said whether Hollander or not, it made no difference, for our vessel would not last more than seven or eight days longer, so we must take this chance of saving ourselves, and go aboard the stranger.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Even the undaunted spirit of the Captain had given up the idea of remaining on board the old junk until death relieved him from his responsibility, for fifty odd days of experience such as we had had, were quite enough to cause any person however strong minded to welcome rescue when it offered.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In half-an-hour or so, our boat was lowered and the necessary preparations made, and we stood ready to bid adieu to our old vessel.  <illus entity="a113-0009" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
113.sgm:When the boat was in the water, the crew hurried the Captain and myself and made us get into her first, he being the oldest of the party and I the youngest.  Thus it happened that I did not take anything with me but just the clothes I had on and a few coins that were in my " <HI REND="italics">Kami-ire</HI>
113.sgm:."  The Captain's nephew, the second officer of the junk, got some bedding and a few clothes for the skipper, After the Captain and I were in the boat, the rest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>As we approached her, she turned round, or "tacked" and came towards us to meet our boat, and get on our weather side; when she was near enough to us, one of her crew threw us a line from her bow, which our men caught and fastened to a pin.  This brought our boat alongside the ship on her lee-side.  At this time we observed that the stranger made herself stand still (hove to) as though she were at anchor in port, by means of her sails.  To us it seemed that the forward sails were set to catch the wind from that part of the ship and the other sails (mainmast) were set to catch the wind from the after part of the ship.  Thus she stood <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>As soon as our boat was alongside, we scrambled one by one on board.  The Captain and officers came to the gang-way and received us.  We knelt down, put our hands together, bowed our heads in the usual form of our salutation, and thanked them for their kindness in thus saving us.  They led us to one part of the ship--the quarter deck--and when we got there, the Captain made signs which we took to be an inquiry as to whether we had any goods, curios, water, or precious metals left in our vessel.  We replied by signs that we had--plenty.  He seemed to understand what we meant, for he consulted with one of the other officers, and in a few moments that officer and two of the crew got into our boat, left the barque and began to scull towards the junk.</P>
113.sgm:<P>They went about a third of a mile, and then the craft became unmanageable on account of their being unaccustomed to handle such a large boat with sculling oars in the Japanese fashion.  As they could neither go forward nor come back but remained in this situation for a long time, the Captain became impatient, wore his ship, and approached the weather side of the boat.  When we were within some hundred yards or so of her, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>I have said that the vessel which we had got on board had three masts.  Two of them had yards, and the third had only a peak-yard to which was fastened a kind of a three-cornered sail.  The ship lay low on the water, was painted black, and had a crew consisting of a Captain, two mates, six men, a cook and a boy.  The appearance of the officers and men was all alike to us; most of them wore beards, flannel shirts (some dark and some red), and black pantaloons with suspenders across their shoulders.  The Captain had on long boots into which his trousers were tucked; most of the rest wore shoes, but some were in their bare feet, even in that cold weather.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Captain was lean and tall, had sandy hair, beard, and moustache; was about forty years of age, and wore clothes similar to those of the rest of the crew.  He had something in his mouth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The first officer was a large man 6 ft. 2 in. in height, about thirty-five years old.  He had black hair, but a beardless clean face, quite white, with red lips, and looked more like a woman than a man.  He was dressed like the Captain except that on his feet he wore shoes.  He had something in his mouth (tobacco) which he continually chewed, and he was for ever spitting.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The second officer was a small man, about 5 ft. 3 inches in height, with red hair, and a sandy beard and moustache.  He was about forty years old, and was dressed like the Captain and first mate.  He was very quick in his motions, and we found him to be kind in the extreme, talkative and inquisitive.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The boy in the cabin was about seventeen years of age.  He had dark hair, and a nice, clean, beardless face, and wore a dress similar to that of the rest of the crew, but was without suspenders to his trousers, and had no shoes on his feet.  He looked to us more like a girl than a man or a boy.  He was great at climbing, for he always went up aloft to handle the sails on the very top yards (royals).</P>
113.sgm:<P>The crew were of the same appearance as the mates.  The vessel had a cook who was very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>All the men looked very rough and odd and we were somewhat afraid of them, notwithstanding that we outnumbered them, and that they were kind and attentive to us.  For we had never beheld such creatures before or even heard of such; and their appearance and dress were so entirely different from ours and so strange.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VIII.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>After the barque had been put upon her proper course, and the excitement of getting us on board had subsided, the Captain summoned the cook to the quarter-deck.  He came to where we were, bringing with him a writing brush, India-ink and paper, and at the Captain's order he wrote something on the paper in Chinese characters.  This we read "Gold mountain."  Then he wrote something more but we could not make out anything except "Rice," "Interest" and " <HI REND="italics">Ka</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When he wrote "Gold mountain," he pointed to the ship.  Some of our party said this meant that the vessel was called by that name, for we did not truly comprehend his meaning, viz: that the vessel was bound to California, the country of gold mountains, until we reached San Francisco long afterwards.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After the cook had finished his writing, the Captain of the barque came to our Captain who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After he had showed us these things, we came back to the quarter deck.  Here we squatted down and looked back at the old junk, thinking that in the evening the vessel which had picked us up would reach her destination, since we had been on the wreck for so long a time as fifty-one days, and during that period we thought we must have drifted thousands of miles.  By and by the Captain beckoned us to follow him into the cabin.  It was the first time that we had ever seen such a nice, clean, beautiful, cozy little cabin.  It was built of handsome woods, panelled and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:varnished; there were velvet cushions on the side seats --but we were much surprised to see that there were lots of chests piled up in the cabin, all packed full.  He motioned us to sit down; some did so, some remained standing up, and some squatted on the floor.  In a few minutes the second Mate, who had spread a chart on the table, began to explain something to us.  But of the various places to which he pointed, the only name that we could understand was "Ah-me-ri-ka" since some of our men had heard that several years before (in 1846 or thereabouts) the American war-ships, " <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
113.sgm: " and " <HI REND="italics">Vincennes</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The Mate first pointed out a large tract of land and said "America," and at the same time pointed to the ship.  From this we understood that the vessel belonged to that country.  The next country he pointed to was a small spot; he said "Japan," and "Jeddo," and pointed at us.  This we did not understand exactly, but supposed that he meant this to be our country, although the name he used was wrong, for we never knew our country by such a name, and the spot on the chart seemed altogether too small for Dai Nippon (since we were told and taught to believe that our country was large).  He then pointed out a large tract of land, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After he had pointed out China, he pointed to a lot of small islands to the southward, and made signs that the inhabitants thereof eat men.  When we heard this, we became somewhat afraid of the strangers and some of our companions raised the question as to whether this might not be a forewarning for us, and whether, in case our voyage happened to be a long one, and the provisions gave out, the strangers would not eat us?  Owing to this some of us talked together and left the cabin and went on deck, where we discussed the contingency.  Some thought they <HI REND="italics">might</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After the Mate had finished showing us the chart all went on deck.  Some of us strolled about to see everything, and all that we saw was new and strange.  Others squatted on deck--looking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When our men observed the compass and saw how easily the vessel was steered--by only one man at the wheel--we all admired her construction, and spoke of how nicely and minutely the compass was divided into 32 points, while our own had but 12.  One thing that surprised us very much was the difference between the number of men employed on this vessel and on our own.  Ours was much the smaller, yet by regulation or custom we had sixteen officers and men, and always required from two to three, or even five persons at the tiller, according to the condition of the sea, while this, a much larger craft, had a crew of only eleven officers and men, all told, and one man at the helm seemed sufficient to steer her.  The masts and sails, too, astonished us; our junk had but one big mast, and a single yard, on which was one large, awkward sail, at times very difficult to manage; while the barque had several masts, and a number of smaller yards to which were fastened many nicely cut sails which were easily and conveniently handled.</P>
113.sgm:<P>One of our men went up to the steersman and inquired, by signs, how many days it would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Before very long our old vessel--the junk, was out of sight.  At a little before midday the Captain and Mate of the barque brought on deck some instrument through which they looked toward the South several times.  By and by the Mate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When we saw what the officers did with the instruments we began to guess what it was for.  Some of us said that the land could be seen through them; others said that that could not be, but that they looked at the Sun to measure its distance, or that they measured the time.  We concluded that the latter was most probable, because they ordered the man to strike the bell, but although we had long discussions none of us could guess correctly,--not knowing that they took the altitude of the Sun to determine the Latitude.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The men forward now went to dinner, and the man at the wheel was changed.  At about half past twelve the cabin boy came up to where we were all sitting on the quarter-deck and made a sign to me to come down into the cabin.  So I followed him and he led me into a small room--his pantry.  There he gave me a piece of cake-like stuff (soft bread) upon which he spread some oily substance (butter) and on the top of that he put some brown sugar.  He signed to me to eat it, and at the same time he gave me a plate of soup, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:then he went forward to the cooking-place (galley) to get other eatables for the Captain and Mate, who were having their dinner in the cabin.  I took up the bread and began to eat it, when I smelt a very strong unpleasant odour.  This stopped me from eating and I put the bread into the sleeve of my outside garment, and commenced to take the soup.  That tasted very nice, since it did not have such a strong smell as the bread had.  It was made from beans, salt meat, and fried bread cut into fine dice-like pieces which floated on the soup and made it smell very <HI REND="italics">ko&macr;-ba-shi-i</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When the cabin boy came back from the galley he asked me if I had eaten the bread, and I replied by nodding that I had.  I quickly went on deck in order that I might throw the nasty stuff into the sea--which I did without anyone observing me.  No sooner had I come on deck than my companions one and all asked me what the boy wanted me for.  I told them what he had given me to eat.  I said that I had to throw away the bread on account of the unbearable smell (of salt butter), but that the soup was mighty nice.  Then one of our party asked me what was in the soup, and when I described it, he said that the flesh-like things in it were probably cattle-meat, and if that were so, I had committed a great sin in eating it and, in consequence, I should be obliged to abstain from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After I heard that, I felt very sad and began to think "What shall I do?  The good gods have saved me from a watery grave, and I cannot pray to them, or return thanks to them, or do anything to show my gratitude?"  However, the deed was done, and there was no remedy but to abstain from praying to the gods as the man had said must be done.  Still, this did not seem to satisfy my conscience in any way, and I was wondering how I could find some remedy, when a happy thought crept into my mind and I remembered a saying that I had often heard from the lips of old people at home, viz.:  <HI REND="italics">Shira-nu-ga hoto-ke</HI>
113.sgm:, equivalent to "bless the ignorant" or "that which is done in ignorance has no harm."  In this case I did not know what it was I had eaten; had I known it was animal's flesh, I would not have touched it.  With this thought in my mind I went forward, drew a bucketful of salt water, washed my hands and rinsed my mouth, and turning towards our country (the West) I prayed to the gods of Dai-Nippon (Great Japan) to forgive the sin I had unwittingly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The Captain and Mate, after they had finished their mid-day meal, came on deck.  The former lighted a cigar, and the latter put some tobacco into his mouth and began to chew and to spit.  They walked to and fro on the deck.  This custom of walking we had never observed in any place before, and did not know what it was done for, therefore a discussion about it arose among ourselves.  Some thought that they were walking to measure the speed the vessel was making, but others said; "How could one ever measure the distance by merely walking on the deck?"  Neither party would give way to the other, and as no satisfactory conclusion was reached the matter was dropped.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After the men had had dinner, the Captain gave orders to prepare our quarters.  He assigned six of us to the room which was vacant in the cabin and into this our old Captain, our three junior officers, one of the crew, and myself were settled.  The rest, eleven in number, were provided for in one of the ship's boats.  There were two of these on the deck just abaft the galley.  The men turned one bottom upwards over the other and stretched a piece of canvas sail over both to prevent any water from coming in.  They laid the planks which they had taken out of our old boat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>About 5 o'clock in the afternoon the Captain ordered the cook to serve out our rations for supper.  These consisted of boiled sweet potatoes, yams, ship's biscuit ("hard tack"), butter, salt meat, and coffee.  These, together with a large tub of boiled rice we had taken from the junk, made our first meal on board the barque.  But we did not touch the meat and the butter.  After supper, we offered prayers and then went comfortably to bed feeling, for the first time in fifty-one days, quite safe.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Early the next morning we got up and after remembering to heartily thank our gods for their protection we sat down to breakfast.  We saw that the weather was unchanged from the previous day, that all the sails were set, and the yards nearly squared, and that the barque was going merrily along.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Not long after we had finished breakfast, the Captain went forward with the same instrument he had used at noon the day before, and began to look towards the East, or where the sun was.  We thought that he was looking for the land ahead as we had heard that in Holland such powerful glasses were made that one could see things thousands of miles off; and it was a common saying among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:people of our country that that kind of glass attracts distant views and brings far-away objects near by reason of the power of the glass.  The Captain looked through the instrument for a few seconds.  Then he called out some words which the cabin boy who stood at the entrance to the cabin, repeated to the Mate who was in the Captain's room looking at some other instrument, and he made a reply in a similar tone.  This was done three times and then the Captain came back to his cabin with the instrument he had been using.  After this the Captain and Mate looked into a printed book ( <HI REND="italics">almanac</HI>
113.sgm:<P>While the Captain and Mate were calculating and talking we discussed among ourselves what they were probably doing, and some of my companions said that the instrument was a wonderful glass, such as I have described above, for when they were at Nagasaki some years before, they had learned that in foreign countries, especially in Holland, such glasses were made.  So the Captain must have seen the land ahead, and he knew where we were.  This was how it was that foreigners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:could sail on the high seas for days and days without seeing the land and yet reach their destination all right.  When the Captain and Mate had fixed the latitude and longitude, the Mate brought out a large book, in which he wrote something which he copied from a stone board (i.e.  <HI REND="italics">the log-slate</HI>
113.sgm:<P>In the forenoon, while we were on deck looking at the ship sliding nicely along the water, with yards almost squared and all sails set before the westerly wind, the second Mate came to us with a large book ( <HI REND="italics">Atlas</HI>
113.sgm: ) under his arm and squatted down beside us.  He opened the book and began to explain something pointing to the picture of a large tract of land--and saying "America, America," and then pointing to himself and to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The next morning, while we were taking breakfast, lo and behold! the very man who had frightened me so the day we got on board the barque about the crime of eating the flesh of four-footed animals, himself began to eat the salt beef which was served to us.  He said that although it was not right, according to our country's customs to eat, or even to touch such unclean food, yet "when one comes to ` <HI REND="italics">Go</HI>
113.sgm:,' he must do what ` <HI REND="italics">Go</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IX.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>A little before noon the second Mate brought some old clothes out of his room and made a sign to me to come and take off the Japanese clothing I had on.  I obeyed him, and he put on me a flannel shirt, a pair of cloth trousers, and a cloth jacket.  All of these were of course much too large for me, although he was smaller than the average man of his race.  He marked the clothes here and there with some white stuff (chalk) and told me by a sign to take them off again.  This I did, and he took them away to his room to alter them by cutting and sewing.  By the next afternoon he had completed the alterations and I put the clothes on again, when he found that they fitted me nicely.  He looked at me and exclaimed, "Now you one Yankee boy!" and he smiled.  I did not understand what he said at the time, but I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>On the following morning, while we were all on the quarter deck talking amongst ourselves my new friend--the second Mate--came to me and said something, pointing at my head and pulling his own hair.  I did not know at all what it was that he said, but I nodded--thinking that perhaps he meant to say my hair was darker than his, or that he wore his hair in a different style from mine.  No sooner did he see me nodding at him, agreeing as he supposed, to what he said, than he went to his room, and in a few seconds came back <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>I did so and he then cut off my top-knot, and clipped my hair short all round my head.  Then he brought sweet oil and rubbed it into my hair, and combed it and brushed it.  When I saw the scissors, I wanted to stop his cutting off my top-knot, in that whilst on the wreck I had made a vow to our gods that if ever haply I might reach our native-land in safety, I should offer that top-knot up as an offering.  But I was afraid to stop him, on account of not understanding his tongue, for he might misconstrue my meaning even as he had misunderstood what my thoughts were when I had nodded a few moments before.</P>
113.sgm:<P>But what that Mate had just done vexed me sorely.  Though he had been kind and had acted with no ill intention on his part, still he had no right to cut that top-knot off,--that top-knot which I had vowed to the gods, if perchance I should once more get back to my country.  And now before ever that vow could be fulfilled the stranger goes and cuts it off!</P>
113.sgm:<P>However I reflected that had we known each other's language this misunderstanding would not have happened.  Wherefore I went forward and washed my hands and my mouth and prayed to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">26th day of the 12th moon</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After seeing the gruesome work of that Chinese cook, we began to talk among ourselves and to be afraid of the strangers.  One of our elders solemnly shook his head and affirmed that if our course across the deep should be long these strangers would assuredly fall upon us and slay us and devour us.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">29th day of the 12th moon</HI>
113.sgm:.  The weather began to change for the worse.  Rain came down and the light wind from the S.S.W. increased in force apace as the day advanced.  At 11 o'clock it was a gale.  Then the rain ceased and presently the wind veered to the West and it became fine.  Then it became necessary for the ship to heave to.  This man&oelig;uvre was a great novelty to us and as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>A few days after this, when the weather was fine and calm, the Captain ordered the men to open the hatches to let air into the hold.  Then we looked down into it, and we saw that she had an abundance of eatable cargo such as tea and sugar and rice and biscuits.  On seeing this we felt much more at ease, and our old fear of being devoured disappeared from our minds altogether.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">2nd day of 2nd moon</HI>
113.sgm:.  The day broke calm but cloudy.  At 10 o'clock the cloud-banks disappeared, and a west wind came whistling up.  Then with all sails set and yards nearly squared we stood on for our destination.  About 3 p.m. it again clouded over.  Then some of the crew reported land in sight on our port.  The Captain went aloft to the main-top with a spy-glass and looked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>During the night the weather cleared, but being so near port, the vessel was compelled to heave to till day-break.  Then she set sail again and stood for the harbour of San Francisco.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Next morning we were early astir looking eagerly for the land, for we had not seen it for nearly 100 days.  About 7 a.m. we were near the entrance to the port.  Several vessels of all classes were standing in and out while numerous smaller craft with three-cornered sails were rushing about like racers.  These were pilot-boats I was afterwards told.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Soon we were within a few miles of the Golden Gate.  Two of the little craft above mentioned (pilot schooners) bore down upon us.  On board of them were several persons dressed differently from anything we had seen, in tall black hats.  One of them on the schooner nearest to the <HI REND="italics">Auckland</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Our Captain went forward and shook hands with the new comer.  The latter brought lots of papers which he handed to the Captain, and both went on the quarter deck.  In a few minutes more the new man took charge of the vessel, while the Captain went below and began to read those papers he had got from the other.  We did not know then what these documents were, but we afterwards heard that they were called newspapers.  By this time the schooner had hoisted her boat on board and sailed out seaward while we stood on in toward the port.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The stranger who had just come on board was dressed in a suit of black, with a great gold chain dangling in front of him just below his chest.  His head was covered with something that looked like a black box with a wide bottom.  I afterwards was told that this was a beaver hat.  He was a large well-built man, with dark hair, a thick bushy beard running all over his face, and black eyes and seemed about 45 years of age.  He spoke quickly and in a loud resonant voice.  He had a trumpet under his arm, and whenever he spoke or gave an order to the men he spoke through that trumpet.  He walked briskly to and fro on the quarter-deck with one hand in his trouser's pocket, and looked as if our ship and everything on it belonged to him.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About 10 a.m. our good old barque came to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Just before we anchored several little sharp built boats with one or two men in them came alongside.  These men were dressed just like our sailors, in flannel shirts and cloth pantaloons.  They looked somewhat rough in appearance, some smoking pipes and chewing tobacco and spitting continually like our first Mate.  These, we were told, were boatmen by trade.</P>
113.sgm:<P>As soon as we came to anchor, the Captain made ready to go on shore.  When he came to say good-bye to us we did not recognize him.  For he had washed and shaved, and dressed himself in black cloth from head to foot, with a great gold chain on his vest and a tall black box on his head like the pilot, and altogether he had become very grand and very wonderful.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In a few minutes he was off in one of the small boats, and we saw him no more until a week thereafter.</P>
113.sgm:<P>As we were just about to anchor another boat came alongside.  This was painted black, and had a crew of five men with two officers.  These latter were dressed like the pilot all in black with tall hats.  The boat flew a peculiar flag with vertical red and white stripes and with and eagle dyed or painted in at the upper corner.  When the officers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:came on board our Captain and Mate received them and conducted them to the cabin where they had some drinks.  One of them stayed on board while the other went off in the boat in which they had come.  This boat belonged to the Custom-house of the port and these two gentlemen were the officers who had to watch on behalf of the revenue of the country, <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
113.sgm:<P>They had some conversation with the Mate and crew, and presently they asked us by signs to go ashore with them, indicating at the same time that they would bring us back.  But none of us felt willing to accept their invitation as we were all more or less afraid of the uncouth appearance of these strangers.  However at last one said that if two or more of the others would go, he would go too, and thereupon three of our party went with them.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After this boat had gone several boats of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>About two hours after our companions had gone ashore they came back bringing with them pies, fresh bread, and cakes which the strangers had given them.  They reported quite favourably of the city and of what they had seen there.  All the people whom they had met had treated them very kindly, especially the two men who had taken them ashore.  After hearing this many of us wished to go to see the city, but our own Captain Manzo warned us not to be in a hurry to do so.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On the fourth day after our arrival the barque was moored near to the Long Wharf.  In the morning a heavy fog settled on the surface of the water, so that we could not see more than a few yards ahead.  And this fog continued for months.  Since our arrival in port our fare had become much nicer, inasmuch as fresh provisions were supplied and served out.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In the afternoon a boat similar to the Custom-house boat with a crew of four men and a flag at the stern came alongside.  In it were two gentlemen with gold bands on their caps and brass buttons on their coats, while one of them had a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>At length they went away, and a few minutes afterwards another similar boat came with two gentlemen in black suits and tall hats.  When they came on board they did exactly as the others had done, and then the Mate led them round and showed them everything.  These gentlemen were from the Custom-house, and one was the Deputy Collector of the Port, Col. Green.  These were more civil than the others who had come on board thus far; they came up and shook hands with some of us saying as they did so "How are you?"  This sounded to us " <HI REND="italics">Kawai</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When they were ready to leave one of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In about 10 or 15 minutes we had landed and walked up to the town.  Here for the first time I saw what a foreign city was like.  The streets were broad and paved with stones and tiles, with side-walks for foot-passengers, and the centre of the way for horses and wheeled traffic.  The houses were much larger than in our own country, some of them two or three storeys high, built of brick and stone, and though some of them were of wood, still even they were large and spacious.  There were numerous shops of all kinds, with goods displayed in large glass windows, hotels, restaurants, drinking places, horses, carts and carriages.  And all the people looked busy and the place seemed lively and prosperous.  And in fact it appeared to me much like the City of Yedo with the exception of the carts which were here drawn by horses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>As we walked up the street from the Wharf, I observed over 50 men with chains on their legs all working hard at digging and carting the earth from the hill close by.  This I afterwards learned was called the "chain-gang."  It consisted of criminals serving their terms for the various crimes they had committed.  As I gazed at the carts passing, I was greatly frightened to see a black object driving a goods-cart or dray.  It wore a blue and red flannel shirt, dark blue pants, long boots into which its pants were stuck, suspenders over its shoulders, a red comforter round its neck and a felt hat on its head.  Its black face and white teeth and huge red lips, which formed such a contrast with its soot-like face were fearful and dreadful.  I thought it was not human, and fancie&acute;d it must be more akin to <HI REND="italics">Oni</HI>
113.sgm: (a Devil) than anything else.  Though I had heard of the existence of folks with short bodies and long legs and arms, yet I had never heard tell of such a creature as this.  Wherefore it came into my mind that it could be nothing but <HI REND="italics">Oni</HI>
113.sgm: (the Devil).  And if it was so he must come from <HI REND="italics">Figoku</HI>
113.sgm: (Hell), as we are taught that in <HI REND="italics">Figoku</HI>
113.sgm: are many red, and black and white <HI REND="italics">Oni</HI>
113.sgm:.  And if such was the case <HI REND="italics">Figoku</HI>
113.sgm: must be near.  Thus thinking I gripped the Mate's hand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>By this time we had reached a shoe-shop.  We entered it, and the gentleman said something to the shop-keeper.  Then he brought several pairs of boots and shoes and the gentleman signed that I should put them on.  I tried one or two pairs and at last one pair which fitted me nicely.  Then the stranger felt my feet and asked me how that would do.  I nodded "All right!"  Then he paid for the shoes and told me to keep them on.  After this we walked across to a bar, or drinking-place where I saw cakes and pies besides.  Here the Mate and the stranger took a drink together, and gave me some cakes and pies to eat.  I ate some and kept the rest for my companions.  By-and-by the stranger bade us good-bye.  I thanked him for the shoes and we parted, and the Mate and myself returned on board.  When I got the new shoes on I felt quite proud of them.  When I got on board I told my companions of all that I had seen, and especially about the object that looked so like the <HI REND="italics">Oni</HI>
113.sgm: we had seen in pictures of <HI REND="italics">Figoku</HI>
113.sgm:<P>A day or two afterwards, the <HI REND="italics">Auckland</HI>
113.sgm: moved up to the inner wharf to discharge cargo.  She came alongside a large old-fashion-built ship which had been converted into a hulk.  Into this our crew began to transfer our cargo, and we (the Japanese) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:went and lent them a hand in doing so.  In about a week the cargo had been nearly all discharged, and then the Captain of the hulk came on board the <HI REND="italics">Auckland</HI>
113.sgm:<P>In another day or two we were told to wash and shave, and those of us who had foreign clothes were requested to change into our own garments.  (By this time several of us were dressed in foreign raiment given to us by charitable strangers).  So we did as we were instructed, and at sundown all were ready.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After supper, we were taken in charge by the Captain of the hulk and went ashore.  We reached the Ball-room which was a large two-storey brick building, situated at the corner of Kearney street and another street.  We were conducted upstairs by our friend the Captain, and ushered into a room of about twenty-four feet by eighteen, with velvet cushioned chairs, a sofa and handsome window curtains, and with a large mirror on the side of the wall.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Here we were told to seat ourselves.  So we all sat down opposite the mirror, when to our great surprise we found that several of our countrymen were already in the room.  Seeing this some of us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>There was another room adjoining the one we were sitting in.  This was used by the dancers as their dressing-room, for we saw them change their clothes, paint their faces and put on masks.  We saw some females put on men's clothes, while some men arrayed themselves in women's garments.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About 8.30 p.m. we heard a great commotion just outside this room.  The noise was fearful and hideous, as if drums were being struck, and bells and other contrivances sounded.  I discovered afterwards that this came from the band.  The thing was a great novelty to us, inasmuch as it was the first time in our lives we had ever heard such an uproar in a house.  And one of us would say <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Whatever that noise was, it was not at all pleasant to our ears, and all us were deafened by the din, while some of us got severe headaches in consequence of it.</P>
113.sgm:<P>A few minutes after the music had struck up, our friend the Captain came to us and signed to us to follow him.  We did so, and he conducted us through a side-door into a large room which looked like the stage of a theatre.  The floor was of wood, with long benches in a row, and a blue curtain in front.  Here the Captain told us to sit down on the benches.  When we were seated facing toward the curtain in front of us, we heard a great noise of talking and laughing on the other side of that curtain.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We remained quietly seated for a few minutes when some of my companions began to get angry.  And one would say to another:--"This Captain of the store ship pretends to be our friend, but he is not.  For he has brought us here to make a show of us and to make money."</P>
113.sgm:<P>So some of them started up in hot passion, meaning to quit the place, but our own Captain stopped them, and pacified them by saying that we were under obligation to the strangers by reason of their picking us up and feeding us, and that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the midst of our Captain's remarks the curtain was drawn aside, when to our great surprise and amazement we found ourselves in front of a perfect sea of faces.  They all looked at us with eager eyes for some minutes, and then turned to each other talking and laughing and gesticulating.  After we had sat quietly for about five or ten minutes the Captain of the hulk said something to the crowd, and then by signs gave us to understand that we were to leave our seats and go about in the Hall.</P>
113.sgm:<P>So we all descended among the crowd, who eagerly beckoned us to come, and in a few minutes we were scattered all over the hall.  The room was brilliantly lighted with gas, the crowd, (of both sexes, children even being present) was splendidly dressed.  I noticed cake-stands and a "bar" for drinking.  At this bar there was a large black man waiting on the guests.  He was dressed to a tee, in black swallow-tail, white shirt, and a huge collar standing right up to his ears, with a white apron in front of him.  The contrast between his black face and white collar and apron made him the most conspicuous figure in the hall, and I looked at him with fear and wonder.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In the centre of hall were huge pillars, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:around these I observed several round tables, not unlike the <HI REND="italics">Tomi</HI>
113.sgm:<P>A little after 9 o'clock the dancing commenced.  It was a grand affair.  Some years afterwards I was told it was a Masquerade Ball, got up by the people of the city.</P>
113.sgm:<P>A young gentleman of about 25 or 30, conducted me round the Hall.  When we came to one of the tables presided over by a girl of about 20, he produced a silver coin (25 c.), and told me to place it on the dial of the table wherever I liked, and turn the stick.  I put the coin on one of the letters and then turned the stick.  When the stick ceased revolving its head rested at the place where I put the coin.  Then the girl gave me 50 cents over and above what I had originally put down, and then my new friend told me to put it all wherever I thought best and to turn the stick as before.  I did so, and I seemed to have won again, for the girl added to my money the double of what I had put down.  The young man told me to repeat it once more.  I did so, and to everybody's surprise I won again.  Then the young gentleman said it would be better to stop and to put the money into my own pocket.  I did as he signed to me to do, and walked away with him to see the rest of the hall.  He gave me cakes and coffee at one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>All of us had been conducted through the hall by the strangers, receiving various presents in the shape of money, pen-knives, rings, breast-pins and eatables.  Of these my share was the largest, viz: $15.50 c. in money (including what I had gained at the table), 7 pen-knives, 10 or 11 gold and silver finger-rings and 3 scarf-pins,--one of them a diamond pin which was given me in exchange for some half- <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">nibu</HI>
113.sgm:<P>A little after 11 o'clock our friend the Captain came and took all of us to a saloon below the hall where tables were set.  Here he gave us supper, and after that we walked back to our vessel and retired with full contentment.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Next morning as I was handling my presents and counting my money the first Mate observed me and coming up said something to me.  At the same time he pointed to the shore, to my clothes, and to the money I was then counting, and to his own clothes.  From this I understood that if I went ashore with him, he would buy me other clothing.  So I nodded and he said "all right."</P>
113.sgm:<P>When evening came we went ashore and wended our way to the city.  We came to a street where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Then he came and asked for my money.  I handed it to him, and he paid for all his drinks and cigars with it.  Meanwhile I sat in my corner, looking on half-asleep, taking no interest in the proceedings whatsoever.  A female of the place brought me some pie, cakes and a cup of coffee.  She began to chat, but I did not understand a word she said, and felt more inclined to go to sleep than anything else.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At last I went up to the Mate and asked him to go home as it was getting late.  Besides the man had misled me for I understood him to mean that he was to buy me a coat and vest with my money, instead of which he had spent it all to pay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When I appeared my companions asked me where I had been and why I was so late.  I told them what the Mate had said to me, and how he had misled me.  At this they all waxed very wroth, and promised to help me to recover the money he had taken from me.  Next day two of my companions and myself went to the first Mate and asked him for the money he had taken away from me the night before.  He pretended not to understand what we wanted.  But when we kept on persistently signifying to him by signs that he had to return the money he at length went into his cabin and opened his clothes-chest and brought out a China-made dark-blue crape summer frock-coat which might have cost him about $3.50 c. in China, and handed it to me to put on.  And he was a man of 6 ft. 2 in. and I was a Japanese boy of 13 or 14, but this old coat was all I got in return for my $15.50 c.  After this we began to mistrust that first Mate.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>X.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>A few days after, the barque was ready for sea, and we were taken charge of by the Collector of the Port (Mr. King, we were afterwards told).  He had written to Washington about the disposal of our party.  The Government had sent back orders to have us kept on board the Revenue Cutter and for good care to be taken of us.  The Washington Government deemed this a fine opportunity to negotiate a Treaty of Amity with our country (Japan) by taking us back in a man-of-war, to ourselves tell our Government about America and the American people.  With this view we were kept about a year in San Francisco at the Government's expense; and in the meanwhile Commodore Perry's Expedition to Japan (1853) was being equipped.  A day before our transfer, the Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Auckland</HI>
113.sgm: came on board and told us that as his vessel was ready for sea, the Custom-house <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:authorities would take charge of us and that we were to be put on board the Revenue Cutter <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Next afternoon, a boat with five of a crew, and an officer wearing a sword and with gold-bands on his cap came alongside.  It flew a flag similar to that of the Custom-house.  Then we said <HI REND="italics">Sayonara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When we got on board the <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm:<P>By way of salutation we fell on our knees and bowed to the deck and prayed before the deck-officer and the one who had escorted us on board.  While we were doing so, the boat's crew were transferring our luggage from the boat to the ship's deck and thence to our quarters, which were on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Just then a large stout man appeared on deck.  The officer said something to him, and then this man turned and signed to us to follow him to our quarters.</P>
113.sgm:<P>This stout man was the master-at-arms.  He was a kind good-hearted fellow; he was an Irish American and was called Thomas Troy.</P>
113.sgm:<P>He brought some thick mattresses and new blankets, and made our quarters very comfortable.  After we had stowed away our luggage we went on deck to have a look at our new ship.  What a fine large vessel she appeared to us, and how cleanly and trimly kept!  She was an iron-ship of about 600 tons, barque-rigged.  She was commanded by Capt. Hunter of N.Y.; had 5 officers, a purser, a doctor, a cook, two stewards and a boy and about 50 or 60 of a crew.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The crew were very kind to us; when we went on deck they thronged around us and showed us over the vessel.  They also tried to teach us, pointing to the various things on deck and naming them by their names.  The following day, the regulation clothes were served out to us.  These consisted of dark-blue cloth jackets and pants, the former with brass-buttons.  Of these brass-buttons we were quite proud whenever we went ashore; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:by reason of them we deemed ourselves American <HI REND="italics">yakunins</HI>
113.sgm:<P>And after a second our Captain answered gently, but I could see that there was indignation deep down in his breast.  "These men," he said "are simply good and charitable people, and are kind to us, because they know that we have lost everything and that we are strangers in a strange land, and helpless as the year-old infant in that we understand not nor speak the speech of their land."</P>
113.sgm:<P>And we gave heed unto his words, and all said it was in truth shameful to suspect the strangers, and we soon found that wise old Captain Manzo spoke only the truth.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>As we had no work to do on board the <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm:<P>In return for these services we now and then received presents in the shape of clothes, shoes and pocket-money from the Captain and the officers.  In about a month, all the boys and the stewards left the ship, and we took over their duties, and continued to discharge them until about a month before we left the good old barque.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Master-at-arms was very fond of us, and used to come round to our quarters whenever he had time to spare, in order to teach us English, and to be taught Japanese, as he had thoughts of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Our people were delighted to teach him Japanese, but were very averse to learning his language.  This was on account of a law of our country, which exposed those who knew anything about foreign countries or languages to being put in confinement by the Government.</P>
113.sgm:<P>One day Lieutenant Thompson bought a spelling-book and Thomas an easy reading-book and gave them to me.  For some days they came and gave me lessons, and I was very anxious to learn.  But when two of the elders of our party knew of this they came and told me that I must desist from learning English, or any foreign language whatsoever, if I had any mind at all to return to our country.  For if I learned a foreign tongue and went home, I, and they also would be put into confinement, besides suffering a very serious punishment, the exact details of which they were not certain of.  When I heard this, being a mere boy and not knowing much about the matter I became frightened and told Thomas and the Lieutenant that I did not wish to continue my lessons.  And from that time forward I did not attempt to learn English <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>During our stay on board the cutter we had no other amusement beyond going ashore on Sundays to wander through the town and over the hills.  On one of these occasions, while rambling among the hills, we came to an isolated building with a great fence round it.  So we approached to see what it was.  And to our great horror we found that inside that fence the natives were murdering cattle in the most cruel and merciless fashion.  Then we said to each other:--"These barbarians (Mexicans) have no feeling or pity, and do not know what cruelty is."  And so saying we hurried back to our vessel.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Somewhere in the February of the following year, the U.S. ship <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm: came into the port of San Francisco and anchored there.  One morning the officers and the men of our cutter told us that the vessel that had just come in had been sent out by the Government specially to take us to our native land.  At this news we greatly rejoiced, and we immediately began to pack our little baggage, together with such things as empty glass-bottles which we had picked up from time to time.  These were meant for our <HI REND="italics">miyage</HI>
113.sgm:, or presents to our friends at home.  Then one day later on the Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm:, a tall big-boned man of 60 with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:iron-grey locks and the kindest of hearts (A. Webster) came and told us through Thomas, who by this time understood somewhat of our language, that in a few days we were to be transferred to the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On the 11th March the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:<P>As we reached the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm: we noticed that she was not at all like an ordinary vessel.  She was painted black, had full square yards on each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In a few minutes we were on board and welcomed by her officers and men.  After we had been shown the comfortables quarters provided for us, and had stowed away our baggage in the proper place we went on deck to bid farewell to our old friend the Master-at-arms who had come with us to see us properly placed and to bid us goodbye.  We felt very sad at parting with him, since he was the only foreigner who had acquired any knowledge of our language.  Besides his kindness to us all on board the <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm: carried 22 guns and a ship's company of 220 men all told.  Owing to her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm: was to have sailed on the 12th, but for some cause she was detained until the 13th.  This gave us time to make another visit to our old friend the <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm:.  On this occasion we told the Captain that inasmuch as we did not understand English, and as no one on board the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm: spoke a word of our language, and as besides all the people of that vessel were strangers to us, we were very anxious that the Master-at-arms should go with us.  Upon this the Captain at once asked Thomas if he was willing to do so.  Thomas replied that he wished nothing better, but that he could not afford to give up his present post and go at his own expense.  However, if the Captain of the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm: would give him even ordinary seaman's wages ($12 per month) he would throw up the position he then held--it brought him some $50 or $60 per month--and go.  So the Captain wrote to the Captain of the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm: about the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:matter, and the latter agreed to allow Thomas what he asked.  Thus the Master-at-arms consented to accompany us and got ready at once, and we all returned to the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:<P>About 7 a.m. of the 13th March a rousing breeze sprang up from the S.W. and the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The Captain and the first Lieutenant walked to and fro on the quarter-deck, the latter with a trumpet under his arm--directing the officers and men, and whatever the men did was done in unison.  The anchors were hoisted by the capstan to the music of drum and fife, and then at one order all the sails were let loose.  And so all the sails were hoisted together at one word, sheets were all spread at one word--every order was carried out simultaneously.  This, our interpreter Thomas told us was "man-of-war style."</P>
113.sgm:<P>In half-an-hour's time we passed our good old barque the <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XI.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>We soon discharged our pilot and then we stood on for the Sandwich Islands.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About April 3rd, we sighted Owahi, the largest of the group, where Captain Cook was killed by the natives in 1778.  About 11 a.m. we came to anchor in Hilo Bay, and there we stayed for a week.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On the morning of our arrival, our Captain Manzo died,--he having been ailing for the past six months and under the care of the ship's doctor both on the <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When we anchored, we began to make preparations for his funeral.  We bathed his body, shaved his head and face for the last time, and dressed him in new clothes.  We obtained a large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When we reached the shore the natives crowded to the beach around in such dense throngs that at first we were somewhat frightened.  But they had only come partly out of curiosity, and partly to assist at the funeral.  They joined our train, and also showed us the way to the public grave-yard.  Here we laid the last remains of our respected old Captain Manzo.  We placed a large stone over the grave, and kneeling down we offered up a prayer.  And then we all arose and came away.</P>
113.sgm:<P>For the rest of the day we rambled all over the hills and town of Hilo.  The area of the town is large, but the buildings are few, consisting chiefly of huts scattered all over ground.  The island is exceedingly fertile; fruit grows wild there in great abundance.  The sea is alive with fish.  The natives are quiet and good and kind; after missionaries went there, many of them became Christians and learnt to speak English.  In appearance, they are black, with dark eyes, straight hair, of medium size, and wear few or any clothes to speak of.  Although the bay or port of Hilo is only an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After remaining there about a week, we sailed for Hongkong and arrived there about May 20th, 1852.  <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:<P>We arrived at Macao at night, and found a large paddle-steam frigate at anchor there.  This was the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Next morning our Captain called on the Commodore, and about 11 a.m. the Commodore, the Captain and some officers of the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm: came on board the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:.  Our Captain received them, and afterwards there was gun drill.  Then the Commodore and his staff-officers were shown all over the ship by our Captain and first Lieutenant.  They came to where we were, and stopped and made some inquiry about us through our interpreter Thomas.  They then went to the Captain's cabin where they stayed about half-an-hour.  At the end of this time they returned to their own vessel, the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:<P>In a few days we were to be transferred to the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm:, as the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm: was on her way <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>About the beginning of June the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm: set sail homeward bound.  It was with great regret that we had left her, for the officers and crew had been kindness itself.  As the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm: slid along and passed the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm: the men of the flag-ship gave three cheers.  These were returned by the crew of the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:<P>A few days after the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm: left Macao for Hongkong.  Here we remained for several weeks.  And the weather became sweltering hot, and we suffered terribly.  For the quarters provided for us on board the flag-ship were extremely cramped and unpleasant.  And the ways of the officers and men of the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm: were not as those of the officers and men of the <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm: and of the <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:.  For the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm: people were rough and unkind <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm: had been for long upon the China Station, and had become accustomed to deal with Chinamen.  Now the Chinese are a greedy and a cringing race, and to make money will submit to any treatment,--even to being kicked and beaten like beasts.  Wherefore the people of the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm:<P>But in this they were wrong.  For in our childhood we had been taught that man must respect man as man, and not treat him like a beast.  So this treatment caused some of our elders to become very vexed.  But notwithstanding we could not help it.  For we had no right to complain since we were at their mercy.  And even if we had had the wish to complain it would have been unavailing.  For our interpreter knew very few words of our language, and we knew scarcely a word of theirs.  Wherefore we kept silent, but anger began to smoulder in our breasts.</P>
113.sgm:<P>One evening in July the heat became so stifling as to be all but unbearable.  So some of us went on deck, and threw ourselves down on the space between the paddle-boxes where some sailors were lying stretched out.  We fancied that there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:could be no harm in doing this, inasmuch as we were certainly in no one's way.  But when the eyes of the officer of the watch fell up us he shouted out something in a loud voice.  Then he kicked us with his shoes and pointed down for us to go below.  Thus we were driven down to our quarters on the berth-deck like a herd of swine.  This made us very wrathful.  But that was all.  For, on account of the reasons before-stated we could make no complaint to the Commanding officer, and even if we did, the interpreter said he thought no good would result.  Wherefore after this not one of us wished to remain on board the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm:<P>One Sunday we got leave to go ashore.  And in the course of our wandering we came to a joss-house in the Chinese quarter.  The priest saw that we were strangers and he kindly asked us to come in.  So we entered and he treated us hospitably, giving us tea and tobacco.  And because we could not speak each other's language we communicated by writing; for although Chinese and Japanese are pronounced in a fashion utterly different, yet the written characters are the same.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We asked the priest whether there was a road from Hongkong to Nanking, and if so whether we could not get there overland, if we wished to.  To this he wrote back to say that there was a road, a good one, though the distance was great.  And he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Upon learning this, we then and there consulted together.  And some of us said that it was better to go overland to Nanking with the priest's passport than to remain on board the frigate to be treated like beasts.  Wherefore they asked the priest for the passport.  And he immediately wrote on red paper in large characters and handed it to our party.  And at the same time he instructed us as to the way we should travel, naming in its turn each town and road they should follow after leaving the opposite shore toward the interior highway.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then we thanked the priest for aiding us and bade him adieu.  We went and called on Mr. Rikimatsu, a countryman of ours then residing in Hongkong.  And at his house we consulted as to who should go and who should remain behind, in that the way was a long and a hard one for old men and boys.</P>
113.sgm:<P>And it was decided that the eight strongest and most robust of our party should fare overland to Nankin <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
113.sgm: for our country, while the other eight together with Thomas should await the coming of the ships of Perry in which to return <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Thus the whole programme was laid out, and we did not go on board the frigate that evening, since our wish was to wish the other eight `God speed' at to-morrow's sunrise.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Next morning the rain poured down, and the day looked of evil omen for starting on such a serious journey.  But those eight men had set their minds on going.  So at 8 a.m. they hired a sampan to carry them over to the opposite coast, and thus they left us.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When we got on board the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm: the deck-officer asked us why we had not come on board the previous evening, and where our companions still were.  We replied through Thomas that we had been invited by a countryman to dinner and had got belated, and so had remained at his house, and that the others would be on board presently.  This seemed to satisfy the officer, for he seemed not to care much about our movements or what became of us, for we saw quite plainly that the people of the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When we went below we told the men who had not gone ashore of all the happenings.  When <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>That same evening after supper some of us went on deck for a smoke.  From the opposite shore a sampan came alongside, and in it we saw four of our companions from whom we had parted in the morning.</P>
113.sgm:<P>They were in a piteous state, almost naked, with only a shirt and a pair of drawers apiece.  When they came on board we asked them what had befallen them, and they told us the following tale:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>The party had landed and threaded their way along the so-called road to Nanking as directed in the writing of the priest of the Hongkong josshouse.  The said writing and passport were shown at intervals of a few minutes at all the way-side villages, and the villagers seemed to shew kindness in pointing out the road.  The party went on in safety for about 12 or 15 miles, through an undulating country with villages scattered about among the hills and valleys.  At last as they crossed one of these hills, and were descending into a valley, the inhabitants from all directions sprang upon them, and surrounded them with poles, axes, spades and knives.  They gave the party to understand that they must surrender everything they had, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>While the first four of the party were narrating their experiences, the other four came on board in an equally piteous plight.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We learned afterwards that the road our companions tried to follow led through one of the most notorious nests of thieves and pirates in the whole of China.  And that was the end of the matter of that priest's passport and the attempt to reach our country overland by way of Nanking.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We had now no resource but to submit in patience to the harsh treatment of the officers of the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Two weeks thereafter the vessel left Hongkong for a port not far from Macao where the commander intended to give liberty to his men as usual.</P>
113.sgm:<P>While lying there, our friend the interpreter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>But I was still young and did not know the advantage of what he proposed.  So at first I declined to go since I was afraid to leave all my countrymen to go afar among strangers.  He then asked me if I would go if he took one of my companions also.  To this I said, "Yes," and then he selected Kame who after me was the youngest of the party.  Then one called Tora asked Thomas to take him too, and he consented to do so.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We then discussed the matter with the rest of our company.  Some of them said that it was wrong for us to separate from the party, while others thought it could do no harm and would be best, in that we might find some chance of reaching home earlier than by waiting for the ships of Perry.  And the view of the latter party prevailed.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>So one day we applied to Commodore Aulick for our leave and Thomas' discharge, and the Commodore granted our request.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then we made ready and one day we hired a sampan to take us to Macao.  We had said <HI REND="italics">Sayonara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>But at this point the deck-officer asked what was being said at the gangway.  Then Thomas explained, and the deck-officer said that as we had permission to leave "we must go and no delay about it."  So we had to go perforce, and straightway we started for Macao.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We arrived there in due course, and took up our quarters at a hotel kept by a man named Frank, a very respectable Portuguese.  This hotel was kept in excellent style, and we were cared for exceedingly well.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When we got to Hongkong we put up at a cheap boarding-house.  This was because Thomas' funds were slender.  However the house was kept in good order by a very respectable American.  When he heard our story from Thomas he shewed us the greatest kindness and attention, and made us very comfortable while we were there.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In a week we saw an advertisement <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:announcing that the British barque <HI REND="italics">Sarah Hooper</HI>
113.sgm:<P>As soon as we had anchored our friend Thomas went on shore, taking Tora and Kame with him and leaving me on board the barque to look after the baggage.  In three hours they returned, and reported that they had found our old friends on board the Revenue cutter <HI REND="italics">Frolic</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Then we all went off and Thomas and I went on board the <HI REND="italics">Frolic</HI>
113.sgm:, where I was welcomed by Lieutenants Carson and Wilkinson who had been on board the <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Thomas requested these gentlemen to keep me on board till he found a suitable place for me on shore.  And they willingly consented to do so.  Then Thomas again went off with Tora and Kame to find situations for them.  This was the first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>However after a few moments I reflected that I must now play the man; we had left our friends over in China and come back here to work and to make money to the end that one day we might yet return to our far-distant home with our earnings.  So since I was without any parent or relative to whom I might appeal for help, of myself I plucked up heart and faced the matter stoutly.  And then I knew that from thenceforth I must look to myself, and this was the day in my life when my cares began, and from that time they have continued ever on.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XII.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>Whilst thus musing in my bunk I was suddenly aroused by a trampling overhead, by the sound of orders hoarsely and gruffly given, by the shaking of sails and the listing of the vessel to one side.  So I scrambled up on deck, when, lo! the <HI REND="italics">Frolic</HI>
113.sgm:<P>We arrived at Monterey next day and stayed one night.  Then we sailed for Kathleen Island with its beautiful land-locked harbour.  There we remained a few days and careened the <HI REND="italics">Frolic</HI>
113.sgm:.  Then we made for San Diego where we remained two days, and then we started on our return voyage <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Next day was Christmas Day and the rain came down.  The Captain ordered the men ashore to scrub the hammocks.  They spent some hours in doing so, and some of them got tight with liquor.  In the evening they came aboard and some of them began to fight for their share of "dough" ( <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Next day we sailed for San Francisco and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:arrived there in due course.  As soon as we anchored our good friend Thomas hastened on board.  He was very glad to see me back safe, since he said that some of the local papers had reported that the <HI REND="italics">Frolic</HI>
113.sgm:<P>I told Thomas that I did not care to remain on board a small vessel, for I had suffered much on the trip to San Diego.  To this he answered that although he had been trying to get a good place for me on shore, yet so far he had not succeeded in doing so.  He advised me to remain a little while longer till he found one, since he could not yet afford to defray my expenses ashore.  For the good man had spent nearly all his money for our passage from China.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Thus I had no alternative but to stay where I was, and I remained on the <HI REND="italics">Frolic</HI>
113.sgm: till the following April.  Then it appeared that a strife arose between the Captain and the officers with respect to my wages.  The officers knew that I worked just as well as any American in a similar capacity, and held that I was entitled to some remuneration for my services accordingly.  But the Captain would in no wise hear of this.  He said that I did not know sufficient of the language to be of any service on the ship, and that food alone was payment enough for my labour.  By reason of this speech the two Lieutenants were greatly vexed, and sent for Thomas and advised <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>So Thomas consented to take the burden of my support again upon his shoulders, for those broad and honest shoulders of the good man's were now considerably lightened.  He had found positions for Tora and Kame at $70 and $60 a month respectively: the former was on board the revenue cutter <HI REND="italics">Argus</HI>
113.sgm: at Benicia with Capt. Pease, and the latter on the surveying cutter <HI REND="italics">Ewing</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Thus I left the <HI REND="italics">Frolic</HI>
113.sgm:<P>A few days after our arrival Capt. Pease obtained for me a situation in one of the large boarding-houses at a salary of $25 per month.  The work was rather heavy for a boy of 15, although the proprietor and his son often lent a willing hand to help me.  But the Chinese cook used to secretly saddle me with his dirty work, and this thing I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>One evening I had leave from the proprietors to go and see my friends on the cutter.  When I got on board, I found that the Captain had gone to San Francisco on business.  So Thomas, Tora and I went on deck and began to talk of things in general, while looking for the coming of the Captain.  Presently all the steamers had come up from 'Frisco <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
113.sgm: for Sacramento.  In a few more minutes we observed the Captain approaching accompanied by a stranger.  And when my eyes fell upon that stranger my heart gave a great leap.  For the man was dressed in the raiment of my native land, with a sword stuck in his girdle and carrying a bundle in a <HI REND="italics">furoshiki</HI>
113.sgm:<P>And Tora turned to me and with serious face whispered his thoughts into my ear.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"We did wrong in that we left our companions in China against their will.  Now these men perchance have got to their homes, and have told the Government the story of how we parted from them, and now this is an officer sent to take us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>So we were very much in fear on account of that man and his sword.</P>
113.sgm:<P>But when they came on board the Captain came up to us and told us that he had brought another shipwrecked countryman of our own that had been picked up by an American fruit schooner from the South Sea Islands.  And he said that he brought him here with a view to aiding him, and to finding out more about his case from him through us.  When we heard this we were greatly comforted, and fear disappeared from our minds.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We went up to the man who stood at the gangway.  And he bowed towards us not knowing that we were his countrymen, for our dress and manner of wearing our hair were the same as the American.  And when we addressed him and uttered ourselves in our native speech he opened his eyes wildly.  And then he fell on his knees, and putting both his hands together, bent his forehead to the deck, and prayed to us to help him, even as we ourselves had done what time the barque had picked us up.</P>
113.sgm:<P>But we told him to fear not, and went on to say the Captain wished to know all the story of his being cast away.  And on hearing these words he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>He had been supercargo of a vessel of 1,200 <HI REND="italics">koku</HI>
113.sgm:<P>This story was written down by Thomas, who handed it to the Captain and it was printed in one of the San Francisco papers.</P>
113.sgm:<P>As I was ready to go back to my place that night, Captain Pease told me to aske for leave of absence for a few days.  He said the schooner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>So I did as I was told and got leave, and went on the schooner, and arrived in San Francisco about the 2nd of June, 1853.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After breakfast, the Captain, Thomas, Jiutaro (the man) and myself went to the office of the Collector of Customs, where we were at once received by the Collector himself, Mr. B. C. Sanders.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Before we reached the Custom-House however I had to buy a new coat.  So on our way we stopped at a shop and I selected a dark-blue cloth frock-coat, vest and pants which cost me $32 in all.  Thus these clothes cost me more than a whole month's wages.  But it was the first time I had bought clothes with my own earnings, and it was a proud thought for me to think that now at last I had clad myself with the sweat of my brow.  Wherefore I was pleased with my purchase, although it cost me dear.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When I put these clothes on, I looked at myself in the shop-mirror time and again, and found that I seemed an entirely different being from the one that had entered the shop.  And then our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The collector questioned Jiutaro on various matters, and I interpreted with the aid of the Captain and Thomas, they putting my words into good English.  And when the Collector had done and finished his questions he granted all that had been asked and ordered the man to be kept on board the <HI REND="italics">Argus</HI>
113.sgm:<P>As we were about to withdraw the Collector said something to Capt. Pease, at the same time pointing to me.  Then through Thomas it was told me that the Collector wished me to come and live with him.  If I went, he said he would send me to school and educate me.  At the same time Capt. Pease earnestly advised me to accept this fine offer.  So I replied that I would willingly come if I could get leave from my present employer.  This Capt. Pease said he thought I could do easily.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I had originally intended to return to Benicia in the <HI REND="italics">Argus</HI>
113.sgm:, but now it was thought well that I I should hurry back on one of the passenger steamers.  My employers were glad to see me back earlier than I had promised and asked me the reason of my speedy return.  Then I told them all that had befallen and asked them for my leave.  To this request the lady of the house replied that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>June 15th.  On this day it had been agreed I was to enter the service of the Collector of the Port.  So when we reached San Francisco Capt. Pease and I went ashore, Thomas accompanying us as interpreter.  After the Collector and the Captain had had some talk they requested Thomas to tell me what my duties would be.  These were to wait on the Collector in the office, to fold papers and file letters and go round with the gentleman whenever he wished me to do so.  Then, after some good advice, Capt. Pease and Thomas left me alone with the Collector.  He indicated by signs that I was to fold the old letters and file them, and I began to do so.  I felt as if I had been made a gentleman all in a twinkling, and felt quite proud of myself for having had the luck to jump so suddenly from the sort of work I had been compelled to do before.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the afternoon I was introduced to a large, gray-headed, clean-shaven man in a black suit and swallow-tail coat.  And my old gentleman said to me, by holding up his thumb "That's a big man."  I fancied that he referred to the size of his body, since it really was big in every way.  When I was introduced, the man shook hands with me, stretching out a great fist which completely wrapped my little hand out of sight, at the same time saying, "How are you?"  He also said something else the only part of which I understood being "Can you speak English?"  This personage was no other than the famous Senator Gwinn of California.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About 3 p.m. the old gentleman signed to me to shut the desk, and I did so.  Then we went downstairs where we found a carriage waiting for us.  In this we drove to the private office of my new employer, for besides being Collector of the Port, the old gentleman carried on business as a private banker in partnership with a Mr. Branam.  When we entered I was introduced to his son, who seemed about 24 or 25 years of age and somewhat delicate.  Then the son introduced me to all the clerks, book-keepers and even to the porters.  They all looked upon me with curiosity, being from Japan, and all were very kind and attentive to me.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About half-past-four we drove out to Mr. Sanders' home at the corner of Mission Road and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>About the beginning of July I was told to prepare to accompany the old gentleman to his home in the Eastern States.  So I went to see Thomas and Tora and told them of the thing, when they both objected strongly and tried to persuade me not to go.  They asked me what wages I was receiving per month.  I answered that I had no special agreement, and that an education was the main thing I looked to.  Then they said that I was acting foolishly in having no fixed agreement for wages, as the time for making money in California would soon be over, and that therefore I should make as much money as I could then.  I answered that making money was all well and good, but my so-called work was really play, and in return for it I was getting pocket-money, board and washing, which was more than ample for what I was doing.  However they insisted that I should not go East on any account.  So when I came ashore I asked one of the clerks to tell the old gentleman about this.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Mr. Sanders immediately instructed a clerk to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the middle of July we sailed for the East <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Then Mr. Sanders said that his home and family were yet 200 miles distant and that he had to tell his people by a wire that he had arrived and that he would be there next day.  He told me too that he would receive an answer to his message in about 20 minutes.  This I did not believe; I thought he was telling me something not true merely by way of a joke, in order to astonish me.  For he perceived that many things had excited my wonder.  So I merely smiled and said nothing, and then he asked me to follow him; and I did.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>We went down to the basement where we found an office and a man at the counter.  Here Mr. Sanders wrote on a slip of paper and handed it to man.  Then the latter began to operate on a piece of machinery which went on `click! click! clicking' as he so operated.  I watched closely but I could observe nothing save the clicking and the man's hands in motion.  Then we re-ascended and the old gentleman took up a newspaper while I, being curious about the place, went round inspecting the various rooms with the pictures on the walls.  Presently the clerk from the counter brought a message under cover.  Mr. Sanders opened it and read it.  He then explained to me that his message had reached his family and that this was the reply, which said that his brother-in-law would await our arrival at the Baltimore Station on the following evening.  Still I could not believe it.  For how could a message run along a wire faster by far than a bird could fly.  It surely was impossible and the old gentleman was only making sport of me.  However, when we reached Baltimore next day there <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
113.sgm:<P>We left New York next morning at 7 o'clock.  On the way to the Depo&circ;t he told me we were to ride in a carriage drawn by a steam-engine, which could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>At 9 p.m. we reached Baltimore, and found the carriage waiting, as Mr. Sanders had said.  We drove to the residence of his family.  Here I was introduced as a stranger from a strange land, and as perhaps the first Japanese that had ever been in Baltimore.  They one and all received me kindly, looking upon me as a sort of curiosity.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About a week after our arrival in Baltimore my guardian had to go to Washington on business, and he took me with him.  On the day after we got there Mr. Sanders told me that he was about to call on the "Chief Man of the Nation."  What he meant by this I could by no means understand.  However as he wished me to go with him I dressed myself in my best.  He ordered a carriage and pair, and in this we drove up Pennsylvania Avenue.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>So we walked up and entered a large hall, and from there we passed into a large room where Mr. Sanders told me the "Chief of the Nation" was.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I could see only a gentleman sitting writing there.  He was dressed in a plain black suit, seemed to be about 38 or 40 years of age at the outside, was pale, lean, and of medium height, of very quiet appearance, and pleasant in features and in manner.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When he saw us, he got up from his desk, and came towards us a little as we walked up to him.  He shook hands with my old gentleman, exchanging some words as he did so, and then Mr. Sanders introduced me to him saying that I was from Japan and that he had brought me from California to the Eastern States.  Then this gentleman shook hands with me saying, "How do you do?" and told me to take a seat, pointing to a chair close by.  But <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>My guardian and he got into conversation while I went to the window and stood gazing out upon the scenery of the Potomac.</P>
113.sgm:<P>And at this point the colour of my thoughts was of this cast:--`Why does my old gentleman tell me such stories?  What does he mean by saying that this man is the "Chief of the Nation?"  The appearance of everything here seems against the truth of his words.  Only the building is large and fine, being of marble, and there are also iron railings.  (For in my country, then, iron was very scarce and exceedingly precious.)  But there is no grand gate, no guard of soldiers, not even police on the outside.  And as to the rooms of office, they are furnished with silk curtains and cushions on the chairs, but beyond that there is nothing to warrant the idea that they are those such a great man as the "Chief of the Nation" should live in.  And then again the dress of the man,--just a plain black suit quite apiece with the one my old gentleman wears.  And yet he tells me this is the Greatest Man of the Nation!  What can he mean?</P>
113.sgm:<P>Why, if he really be such a great man, has he not retainers and the gate-way guarded by soldiers and his person surrounded by attendants?  If he were the Chief of the Nation, surely my old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>At last my old gentleman had done and finished his conversation, and was ready to leave the President.  So we shook hands and said <HI REND="italics">Sayonara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When we were in the carriage I again asked my guardian who that personage was he had been talking with.  He again said that he was the Chief of all the officials of the country and the Supreme Governor of the Nation.  He said that he was called the President and that he was of the same dignity as the Emperor of Japan.  Notwithstanding all he said yet I could not believe his words, and I was still in doubt as to the position of the personage in question.  For how could it be that the head man of a mighty nation like the United States of America should live in such a simple manner without any pomp or grandeur, nay, even, without guards or attendants.  For in my country not even a petty provincial official was without his train, and could not be approached unless <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIII.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>January 17th, Mr. Sanders had to go to Russia on some business connected with that country.  So he called me aside and told that he should like to take me with him to Europe, but the better course for my interests would be to put me to school while he was away.  On his return he said he would take me back to California.  As to my present needs, his family and his brother-in-law would see to them just as he would do himself.  When I heard this I felt very sad and sorry at the thought of parting from him, for by this time I looked upon him even as upon my own father.</P>
113.sgm:<P>A few days after he left I was placed in one of the Catholic Colleges kept by the "Brothers."  Here I stayed till the old gentleman returned from Europe in 1854.  My studies lay in learning to spell, write, and cipher, and in reading some religious books.  My teacher, Brother Waters, was most painstaking and attentive while my fellow students were exceedingly kind: at each recess they would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In six months the summer vacation came and I was sent with Mr. Sanders' children to live at a farm owned by his mother-in-law about 7 miles from the city.  Here there were about forty negro slaves, the most healthy and cheerful people I ever saw.  Their ways and manners were exceedingly funny; their dances in the evening used to interest me especially.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The day after my arrival the old lady ordered me a glass of milk fresh from the dairy, with sugar and a lump of ice in it.  When the house-keeper brought it to me I asked what it was, and she pointed to the cattle in the distance and said cow's milk.  So I declined to take it, inasmuch as in my country we had been taught to look upon all four-footed animals as unclean.  The housekeeper went and told the old lady that I had refused the milk, and upon this the old lady came to me and said that the milk was good for me and would make me strong and that I must drink it.  So I had to obey, as all were standing round watching me.  And I drank that milk, and was greatly surprised to discover that it tasted so nice and soothing.  And I began to think that there were many more good things in the world than I had dreamt of.  From that time onward I have always been very fond of milk.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The first Sunday after my arrival we all had to go to Church.  The old lady ordered a horse for me and a negro as a groom.  This was the first time I ever rode a horse, and I enjoyed that ride very much and ever afterwards I rode whilst I was on that plantation.  And I ever afterwards was fond of riding and when I returned to Japan my fondness for this exercise got me into strange and unexpected difficulties.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In above five weeks we returned to Baltimore, and a few days afterwards Mr. Sanders came back from Europe.  He had been appointed Russian Naval Paymaster on the Western Coast of America.  After this I did not go back to school as Mr. Sanders intended to start for California.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Nov. 1st, 1854</HI>
113.sgm:.  As our departure for California was near at hand, Mrs. Sanders, who was very ardent in the matter of religion, was anxious that I should be Christianized, or converted to the Christian faith and baptized before I left Baltimore.  So I agreed, and one day I went with a lady who was staying in her house to the Cathedral.  There we met Father--I forget his name--who ushered us into a closet, a little enclosed box-like place.  Here he questioned me on various matters and points.  Then he told me to select a name out of those he read from a book and repeated.  Several of the names he repeated did not sound nice, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Two days thereafter we set out for San Francisco via&circ; New York and Panama and arrived at our destination on the 28th of November 1854.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Two weeks after our arrival I was placed in a school that afterwards became united with San Francisco College.  Here I continued till the November of the following year.  Then occurred the Great Commercial Panic of 1855, in which the San Francisco bankers suffered severely.  Among others the house of Sanders and Branam was obliged to suspend payment, or in other words, to close up the shop altogether.  This circumstance caused me great grief on account of my good old gentleman.</P>
113.sgm:<P>This meant an end to my schooling for a time.  Then with the aid of another kind friend I returned to school for six months more.  But he also was involved in the panic, and thus I had to leave school for ever.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then I turned my thoughts to obtaining a situation in a commercial house in San Francisco.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>While thus situated learning something of business and perfectly satisfied with my place, Senator Gwin one day sent a friend to Messrs. Sanders and Cary (my friend and my employer) requesting that I should be allowed to accompany him to Washington.  At first they declined, but as the Senator persisted in sending his friend with the request, they at last consulted and addressed a note to Senator Gwin asking him what object he had in view in wishing to take me to Washington with him: In reply he wrote as follows:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>San Francisco, August 3rd, 1857.</P>
113.sgm:<P>DEAR SIR,</P>
113.sgm:<P>In answer to your note of this date, I will state that I propose to take Heco, the Japanese boy, with me to Washington to act in the capacity of a clerk, and also if it could be accomplished to have him employed in the State Department preparatory to his being sent to his native country with such knowledge of our Government and such endorsement as will be of service to him when he arrives in Japan.</P>
113.sgm:<P>It will be sometime before I can get him a place in the State <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Very respectfully,</P>
113.sgm:<P>Your obedient servant,</P>
113.sgm:<P>Wm. M. GWIN.</P>
113.sgm:<P>COL. B. C. Sanders, San Francisco.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On receiving this letter they advised me to go with the Senator.  So I made ready to do so, and leaving San Francisco on September 20th, 1857, we arrived in New York on the 7th of the following October, and took up our quarters at the Metropolitan Hotel.</P>
113.sgm:<P>One morning Mrs. Gwin came into my room accompanied by a gentleman and told me to go with him and get a new suit of clothes.  I told her that I had plenty of clothes to last me for some time, and that I did not want any new clothes.  She replied that the clothes I had were not suited to Washington Society, and that I must go and order a suit in the present fashion.  Then she turned to the gentleman and said "Now Mr. C. you will please take him to the best tailor and shoemaker and order for him a new suit, shirts and a pair of boots, won't you?"</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then Mr. C. asked me to accompany him, and I went, thinking that since Mrs. Gwin wished me to have a new suit, it was to be a present from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>About a week after our arrival in the national capital the Senator published in the local newspapers a letter from Mr. Sanders to the Senator written before we had left California.  This letter gave an account of myself and of the manner of my coming to America and of what I had been doing since my coming.  The object of the Senator in publishing this letter was to excite curiosity about me before he presented me to the newly installed President of the U.S.  No sooner had this letter appeared in print than the residents of the place became very friendly and invited me to dinner and evening parties and so forth.  Before its publication, no notice had been taken of me whatsoever, as was of course perfectly natural.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November 25th</HI>
113.sgm:.  In the morning the Senator took me in his carriage to the State Department and introduced me to the Secretary of State (Gen. Cass) and to the Acting Under-secretary and chief clerk, Mr. Wm. Hunter.  From there he took me to the White House and introduced me to President Buchanan.  The president shook hands with me very cordially as did all the officials to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The Senator stated the object of our visit.  This was to have me placed in the State Department preparatory to my return to Japan, as he believed that that country was shortly to be opened for commerce.  He said if I was so placed I would naturally acquire a knowledge of American Institutions which might be of some service to both countries.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The President made answer that he would be most happy to aid me and place me in the State Department, but he was afraid there was no vacancy open, for since he had taken his seat, so many months had elapsed that all posts were filled, down even to the copyist.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"However" he said, "you may inquire at the State Department and if there is any opening I shall be most happy to appoint your young friend."</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Senator replied that he had already been to the Department, and finding that there was no vacancy there he had come to ask the President to do him the favour of creating some special post for me.  To this the President answered that there was no appropriation for any new post, but that the Senator might see to such appropriation when the Session of Congress began.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The President was a large-built old man of 70.  One of his eyes was affected.  He was dressed in a black suit, and held his head on one side.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In December Congress met, but as far as my affair was concerned nothing was done, and the matter seemed to be at an end.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I stayed with the Senator till February, 1858.  During this time I made several friends and acquaintances among the former a Lieutenant John M. Brooke.  He was then in Washington trying to get up a surveying expedition to the coasts of China and Japan, and to determine the position of some reported dangerous rocks and shoals in the Pacific.  He made me a promise that if he succeeded in his object, he would give me a position in the expedition that would enable me to return to my native country.</P>
113.sgm:<P>But his project made but slow progress and I had little to do or to learn with the Senator, as my duties lay in assorting and filing his numerous letters, and writing replies to his dictation.  So one day I asked the Senator to let me go, if he really could not place me in the State Department, or get me some post under the Government.  He said that if I wished to return to California he would give me a passage back.  I told him I did not care to go back to California yet, (on account of Lieutenant Brooke's expedition) but would like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Senate Chamber, February 15th, 1858.</P>
113.sgm:<P>MY DEAR SIR,</P>
113.sgm:<P>Joseph Heco, the bearer of this is a native of Japan, whom having become a citizen of the United States, I brought with me from California to have employed in the State Department.  Up to this time I have been unable to get him there employed for the want of a vacancy, but I am still in hopes of succeeding as the session progresses.  In the meantime I have advised him to go to Baltimore where he has friends and get employment in the Custom House or a commercial house if he can.  He is a clever young man of good habits, industrious and honest, and I shall be much gratified if you could give him even temporary employment in your office.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Very truly yours,</P>
113.sgm:<P>WM. M. GWIN.</P>
113.sgm:<P>HON. J. T. MAJOR, Collector, Baltimore.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After the Senator had granted my leave and provided me with the above letter I expected that he would give me my passage money to California since he knew my salary balance would be very small.  So I asked him for my account, whereupon he handed me the following accounts and no allowance for passage money.  For I afterwards was told that if I went back to California my passage would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>To salary Sept. 5th, 1857 to Feb. 1858 at $30 per month       $150</P>
113.sgm:<P>Less Cash paid from time to time       55</P>
113.sgm:<P>$95</P>
113.sgm:<P>Against this he handed me a bill for new clothes bought at New York at the wish of his wife amounting to $75.  Thus he give me as my balance in cash, $20.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Senator was well-known to be wealthy, with extensive plantations and several hundreds of slaves in the South.  He and his wife posed as leaders of fashionable society in the capital, giving numerous balls and dinner parties and so forth.  And yet his treatment of myself, a poor stranger, was not munificent.  He took me away from a firm where I was well situated, learning business and perfectly satisfied with my position, and after taking me to a strange and distant place he turns me adrift with a precious twenty dollars!</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIV.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>I called on the Collector of the Port of Baltimore and presented the Senator's letter.  The Collector read it and said that he was sorry that there was no vacancy in his department and that therefore he could not comply with Senator Gwin's wishes.  And he handed me back the letter, saying, "You had better keep this and show it to others for reference."  I thanked him and said <HI REND="italics">sayonara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Meanwhile I had gone to Mr. Sanders' house in Baltimore.  In the early part of May, Mr. Sanders came home after his affairs in California had been adjusted.  He was very glad to find me at his house.  I told him what had befallen me with the Senator, when he said;--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Oh, he is only a politician, and politicians are all alike,--all promises and no fulfilment.  But I am more than glad to have you in my own house; you must always look upon that as your home."</P>
113.sgm:<P>This reply soothed me and made me very happy and I felt wonderfully thankful to him.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>And now shortly after this time I began to be greatly troubled.  For I was nearly out of pocket money, having only two dollars in all remaining to my name.  And yet knowing that my good old friend had come home an unfortunate and ruined merchant, I durst not ask any further aid from him.  Besides, I must keep up my decency in dressing.  Of course board was free, yet washing had to be paid for, and other expenses had to be met, and to do all this I had but two dollars.  What should I do?  I had tried everywhere to get a situation even through friends in New York, but I could not get anything owing to the panic of the previous year.  Thus I pondered over my position for several days, but no light come to aid me.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I was in this anxious state of mind, when one morning a letter came to me from a stranger whom I had never seen, though the name was a familiar one,--Mr. T. C. Cary, Senior, of Boston, the father of my former employer and partner in Macondray &amp; Co.  This letter was a god-send to me.</P>
113.sgm:<P>It intimated that the writer had received a letter from his son in China asking him to see how I was situated and telling him if I was in need of funds to furnish me with them on his (the son's) account.  He also wrote that he had received a package of Japanese books for me and asked what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When I read this letter I was overwhelmned and for some minutes I was dumbfoundered.  I thanked God for giving me such a good friend in my time of need.  It is impossible to describe my feelings at that time and my gratitude to my first employer for thinking of me at such a distance.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I answered the letter at once, thanking both the old gentleman and his son for thinking of, and writing to me.  I requested the old gentleman to send the books to my address; as for the money matter I would avail myself of his kind offer at some future date.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Mr. Cary sent the books in a few days time accompanied by another kind letter.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 1st</HI>
113.sgm:<P>This was another piece of good news for me.  Being thus assured by Lt. Brooke of my appointment, I deemed it necessary to have some money in order to obtain an outfit, and to get ready for my departure.  I therefore wrote to Mr. Cary, Sr., <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 7th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 16th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>SIR,</P>
113.sgm:<P>By the authority of the Secretary of the Navy, I hereby appoint you Captain's clerk.  You will proceed to San Francisco via&circ; New York in the steamer of the 5th July and report to me on your arrival in that port.  Very respectfully,</P>
113.sgm:<P>Your obedient servant,</P>
113.sgm:<P>(Signed)  LIEUT. COMDG. J. M. BROOKE,</P>
113.sgm:<P>United States Navy.</P>
113.sgm:<P>TO JOSEPH HECO, ESR., Baltimore, Md.</P>
113.sgm:<P>With the above there was a private letter stating that he and his officers and men were to proceed to San Francisco in the steamer of the 20th of June; and that he would leave instructions with his brother, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 22nd</HI>
113.sgm:.  Now that preparations for departure were all but completed, I thought it right to pay some farewell visits to friends.  So I went to see Mr. Van Reed in Reading, Pa.  After spending three days with him I set out for Perrymensville <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm: Philadelphia in order to say good-bye to my old friend Captain Webster of the revenue cutter <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 29th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After tea two ladies and myself set out for the Methodist Church.  When we entered, the building was comparatively empty, but presently it quickly filled up.  Into a pew in front of us came two young girls of about 18 or 20 accompanied by a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 3rd</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Whilst we were smoking after dinner Mr. Sanders and I had some talk about my future.  He gave me good advice, such as a father might give to his own son when on the point of making a long journey into a far country.  He said that he extremely regretted his inability to give me the education he had intended to give me when I came to him.  Had he known beforehand of the coming of the misfortune that befell him in 1855 he would have allowed me to go to West Point, for on the occasion of our visit to President Pierce, the President had offered to place me in the government school there.  This Mr. Sanders had declined on my behalf, thinking that he would be able to give me a more useful education in private schools.  Of this, of course, he had not told me at the time.  "But now that you are going away from our midst," he said, "I must tell you."</P>
113.sgm:<P>After this he went on to say that he had written a letter which he would hand to me and which I might read after I had got upon the cars; from it I would learn how he felt towards me, and what interest he took in my welfare.</P>
113.sgm:<P>4.30 p.m. came and it was time for me to start for the station.  My baggage was put into the carriage at the door and then I went and bade farewell to all in the house, and at the same time thanked one and all for the kindness I had received <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Mr. Sanders entered the carriage and drove off with me to the station of the New York line.  On the way the old gentleman handed me the letter he had before alluded to.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At 5 p.m. precisely the train was starting.  So the old gentleman bade me good-bye, and "God bless you" with a hearty hand-grip, while I thanked him for all his kindness and wished him a long and prosperous life.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When he left the car and stood on the platform looking at my window I felt as I were parting from my own good father and I felt very sad.  As the train slowly moved out of the station I saw him standing there waving his hand, and soon he and the good old city of Baltimore alike had faded from my view.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then I took out the letter Mr. Sanders had handed me.  I opened it and read as follows:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>Baltimore, July 2nd, 1858.</P>
113.sgm:<P>DEAR JOSEPH,</P>
113.sgm:<P>Five years and half ago, I first saw you, when you were presented to me by Captain Pease, of the U.S. revenue cutter in San Francisco, and whilst I was the Collector of that Port.  From that day to the present, I have never ceased to cherish for you a kind and parental feeling.  Your education is not so complete as I intended to have made it; but you know the circumstances which surrounded me, after my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>However, you have sufficient education and knowledge for all practical purposes, and with your native cleverness and tact you are fitted for almost any mercantile position, with the practical knowledge which is always obtained in the exercises of the duties imposed upon the young beginners.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Your short but agreeable experience in the highly respectable house of Macondray &amp; Co., San Francisco, will readily convince you of the truth of my remarks.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When Senator Gwin persuaded me to permit you to leave so good a place as the one alluded to, I was flattered with the hope, that through the influence of that gentleman you would have obtained a very respectable position in the State Department in Washington.  He (Senator Gwin) failed however, to accomplish this desirable end, and when I arrived from San Francisco, I found you at my house, which you know is always, and under all circumstances, your home.  I regretted Senator Gwin's failure to comply with his promises, but was much pleased to find you happily situated in my family.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Lieutenant Brooke's appointment of you as Clerk to the U.S. surveying expedition is to me very gratifying, as it gives you employment and enables you to see again your native land.  Congress has ratified the treaty with Japan, and the consequence will be the opening of Diplomatic relations with that country.  I will keep a look out for your interest and should it be expedient to employ you in any honorable position in the Embassy, I will see to it that you shall get the appointment.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In taking leave of you, my dear boy, it affords me unfeigned pleasure to say that for the five or six years that I have known you, in the intimate relations which have existed between us, I have always and under all circumstances found you truthful, honorable, loyal and polite, courteous and appreciative, and entirely entitled to the confidence and respect of your friends and of all men.  I regret to part <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>With good wishes for your prospect and future happiness.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I am your sincere friend,</P>
113.sgm:<P>BEVERLY C. SANDERS.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When I read this letter, I almost cried to think of how kindly and how much he had thought of me, and of how unfortunate he had been in his business in California.  Had he not met with that misfortune I should have been properly and fully educated, and no doubt fitted for almost any honourable position in life!  With these and other thoughts I lit a cigar and gazed on the passing scene, and in about half-an-hour I fell asleep on the seat, worn out with the fatigue and excitement of the last few days.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XV.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>I arrived at New York at 3 o'clock next morning.  I drove up to the Metropolitan Hotel, registered myself and got my room.  Then after breakfast I called on Captain Brooke's brother at the Custom-House.  When I got there Mr. St. John Brooke received me very kindly and told me of the instructions his brother had left with him regarding me.  He told me that the Government allowed only $300 for passage-money and expenses, and that the fares were 1st class $300, 2nd class $200, 3rd class $150.  I decided to go 2nd class, which would leave me $100 for incidental expenses.  Upon this Mr. Brooke said he would go with me to the office and see whether he could get the company to grant me a 1st class ticket for 2nd class fare by explaining to them my peculiar situation; being a stranger in a strange land trying to get back to his native country.  At this point I recollected that I had a letter of introduction from Mr. Sanders to the President of the company and when I mentioned that fact to Mr. Brooke he said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"Oh!  So you are going out to California!  The passage rates are 1st class $300, 2nd class $200, 3rd class $150."</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then Mr. Brooke began to explain how I was situated, and asked if it was possible for the President to give me a little help in the way of granting me a first-class passage for 2nd class rates.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The President replied "No Sir, I am sorry, but it is the regulation and I cannot favour anyone."  At this I turned to Mr. Brooke and said I would go 2nd class.  We then bade the President good-afternoon and left the office.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On our way to my hotel, we discussed the President's cool and disagreeable reply, for we knew perfectly well that when it suited him he did favour other people.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 4th</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When we arrived I was welcomed by the whole family, viz. his step-father, step-sister and mother.  They were very kind and attentive to me and treated me with great deference as a stranger from the far-off and unknown country of Japan.  At precisely 3 p.m. dinner was announced, and I was led into the beautiful dining-room where a nice dinner was served which I enjoyed very much.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The 5th Avenue is almost entirely occupied with the private residences of the wealthy inhabitants of the city.  Each residence has a nice flower-garden attached, separated from the street by iron railings.  The houses are large squarely-built buildings of brick or stone and of from two to four storeys high.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The streets are broad and well-laid out, with side walks nicely paved and with rows of shadetrees to protect the pedestrian from the summer heat.  Altogether it is considered the most fashionable quarter of the city.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 5th</HI>
113.sgm: had been advertised as the day of the steamer's sailing, but as the Fourth of July had fallen on a Sunday, the 5th was celebrated as Independence Day and the departure of the boat was postponed till the 6th.  After Mr. Brooke and I had lunched at the hotel we went out to see the military parade.  In the evening I went with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:St. John to Laura Kean's theatre where I saw a comedy for the first time.  It was called the <HI REND="italics">School for Scandal</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 6th</HI>
113.sgm:.  My friends Mr. Brooke and St. John escorted me to the wharf where the <HI REND="italics">Moses Taylor</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The bell at last rang and my friends went ashore and Mr. May and myself went on talking as we walked to and fro on the deck.  As we were doing so the Captain came on board.  He called out "Ah! Heco, is that you?" and at once shook hands, saying how glad he was to meet me and asking why I had not let him know I was in the Eastern States.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"However" he said "we'll talk afterwards.  I must now get the steamer under weigh."</P>
113.sgm:<P>This Captain was Capt. McGowan, the officer who had succeeded Captain Hunter in command <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:of the <HI REND="italics">Polk</HI>
113.sgm:.  He was now skipper of the <HI REND="italics">Moses Taylor</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After the vessel had been got under weigh, the Captain called to me.  I went to him and he introduced me to his son.  The young man was about my own age, just out of college, and on his first sea-going trip.  When the vessel had cleared the harbour, the Captain requested the Purser to provide me with a cabin in the first saloon along with his son.  Then I went on to tell the Captain where I had been and what I had been doing since I left California.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At 5 o'clock the Captain sent for me to come to dinner.  I informed him that my ticket was only a 2nd class one, and told him all the circumstances of my taking it.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Never mind that!" he replied.  "I knew you were booked in the 2nd class when the Purser took up the tickets; but you are my friend and my guest."  So saying he placed me on his left opposite to Mr. and Mrs.--, who were on his right.  This was a stroke of great good luck for me.  Notwithstanding the refusal of the President of the Company to accommodate me I had got all I wanted, besides being placed in the most honourable place on board.  The Captain's table is supposed to be the most honoured place on board these passenger steamers, for the food is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Therefore I felt quite thankful to Almighty God by whose aid I had thus met with my good friend, and through whom what the President of the Company had refused was granted me at other hands without my asking.  This was to show to the world that Providence always looks after those who are right in mind and purpose.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When we arrived at Aspinwall all the passengers went ashore with the exception of Mr. May and myself, whom the Captain invited to stay for breakfast.  Then Captain McGowan said he would go with us to Panama in order to arrange for my passage with Captain Bobie on the boat to San Francisco.  So we all started across the Isthmus by railway.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When we arrived at Panama the S.S.  <HI REND="italics">Sonora</HI>
113.sgm: was at anchor in the bay awaiting us.  We at once went on board of her by the tug <HI REND="italics">Guatamala</HI>
113.sgm:.  Then Captain McGowan introduced me with kind words to Captain Bobie of the <HI REND="italics">Sonora</HI>
113.sgm:, requesting him to take good care of me.  The Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Sonora</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After I had been introduced to Capt. Bobie, Capt. McGowan bade me good-bye and left for his vessel on the other side.  Soon after he went off Captain Bobie introduced me to the Purser, and he at once assigned Mr. May and myself a highly comfortable cabin.  At dinner I was placed at the Purser's table on his right hand.  Thus again I was well cared for by my new friends.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVI.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>We arrived at San Francisco on the 29th July.  I at once reported myself officially to Capt. Brooke at Mare Island, where he was engaged in fitting out his vessel.  He told me to stay where I was until his vessel was ready, when he would come down to San Francisco and take me on board.</P>
113.sgm:<P>One morning the <HI REND="italics">Carribbean</HI>
113.sgm:, a British ship, came into port with about a dozen Japanese she had picked up in a helpless condition.  Tora and Van Reed went off and saw them, and afterwards they came and asked me to accompany them in order to find out the details of their being cast away, where they were from, and so forth.  So I went and saw them, and afterwards we endeavoured to procure their return to Japan through the aid of the U.S. Government, but without success.  Ultimately they were taken by the <HI REND="italics">Carribbean</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September 20th</HI>
113.sgm:.  Received notice from the Commander of the surveying schooner <HI REND="italics">Fennimore Cooper</HI>
113.sgm: that she would be down from Mare Island <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Fennimore Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September 26th</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October 1st</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On October 3rd it was calm and cloudy although the sea still ran high.  We hove to in order to make the first sounding of the Pacific with the apparatus our Captain had invented when he was a midshipman.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About 9 a.m. we let the apparatus down into the sea and began sounding.  But the apparatus did not reach the bottom until 10.15 a.m. by which time we had let out 2,600 fathom of line.  The first 200 yards or so ran off with great velocity, but after that it went slowly, as the weight of the line seemed to retard it.  At 11.15 a.m. we began to reel in the line and had got about 200 or 300 yards on board when the cord parted on account of the strain on it from the roll of the vessel.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At noon we cast another line, and in about an hour the shot seemed to have reached the bottom.  We at once began to reel in.  This time we were fortunate to recover the line and the shot and to bring up a specimen of the earth at the bottom of the Pacific.  No doubt this was the very first specimen so obtained from there since the creation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The specimen was a light, yellow, sandy-coloured tenacious clay, soft and with very fine particles.  Under the microscope it looked like broken China ware.  During the sounding we experienced occasional heavy swells, rolling from N.W. to S.E. with intervals of about 200 to 500 yards between them.  They would keep on for about a quarter of an hour at a time.  Our Captain measured their height from the deck.  He said they were about the highest waves known in the world, measuring as they did from 20 to 22 feet in altitude.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Whilst we were reeling in the line we noticed some large fish playing on it about 30 yards below the surface.  These we supposed to be sharks.  It took about 3 1/2 hours to recover the line.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After this we set our sails and stood on our course till the 8th of October, when we had another calm day.  At 5 p.m. we hove to and cast soundings.  At 6.12 p.m. the shot reached the bottom, with 1,900 fathom of line out.  At 8.30 p.m. we recovered the line with a specimen similar to the former one.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On the following morning we again took soundings.  This time we brought up another similar specimen after having paid out 2,200 fathoms of line.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>While this sounding was in progress, our Captain ordered a boat to be lowered.  He got into it with some glass instrument and went off about 600 yards from the schooner and experimented on the transmission of sound under water.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October 21st</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November 6th</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>I was invited by the Attorney-General, Mr. Bates, to stay at his house, while our schooner was in the harbour, and I accepted his invitation.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November 20th</HI>
113.sgm:.  After breakfast we came into town, and I went and reported myself to the Captain.  I was told that a whaler had picked up some of my countrymen and brought them into port.  I asked the Captain for our boat and went off to the " <HI REND="italics">Hobomac</HI>
113.sgm:<P>I found that they had been picked up in a helpless condition by some vessel 2 years before, and that so far they had found no opportunity of fulfilling their wish to return to Japan.  They had been Owari men, five in all; sailors on an Owari junk trading between that place and Yedo.  They had been blown off the coast, and after drifting for some months they had been picked up by the whaler <HI REND="italics">Chas. Philippi</HI>
113.sgm:.  They had afterwards met the <HI REND="italics">Hobomac</HI>
113.sgm:, short of hands, and this vessel had taken two of the five men on board.  I asked them how they had been treated on that ship.  They answered that they had been treated with extreme kindness by Captain and officers alike, and asked me to thank the ship's company for all that they had done for them.  I then asked them whether they wished to remain where they were, or whether they wished to return to their country.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After I came ashore I told Mr. Bates of the men's desire.  He said he knew of a Captain going on a cruise in the course of which he would touch at Hakodate, and that he would ask that Captain to land them there.  Next day he saw the Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Godean</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The following morning Mr. Bates and myself went on board the <HI REND="italics">Hobomac</HI>
113.sgm: and asked her Captain whether he had any objection to let these two Japanese leave his vessel.  He answered that he had none; and said that it had been his intention if he went on another cruise to land them at Hakodate, but now seeing that there was an earlier opportunity for their return he was glad to let them go.  So we came ashore and bought some bags of rice for the men's food on the voyage, and sent them on board the <HI REND="italics">Godean</HI>
113.sgm:<P>A few days another Japanese was brought into port by the whaler and I at once went to see him.  He was from the island of Awaji and had been cast away with two companions in a small coasting junk between his own place and Kishiu.  The vessel had broken her rudder and had then been blown <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When he saw me in undress uniform with brass buttons and gold bands on my cap he was somewhat afraid of me when I addressed him in his own language, for he did not know who I was.  He immediately fell on his knees and began to relate his story.  I told him to get up, saying that I was a countryman of his own similarly situated, and on my way back to Japan in an American Government vessel.  Upon this he begged me to take him with me in my vessel.  I told him I would see what could be done.  When I returned to the <HI REND="italics">Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When Captain Brooke saw him he said he would take him in his vessel to Japan, shipping him as a "landsman" at the rate of $12 per month.  When I told the man this he was delighted beyond measure.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After this I went with him on board his vessel and asked the Captain to let him go.  The Captain of the whaler said he was quite willing to comply with my request, and went on to say that "Tim" (that was what the man was called by the crew) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>So next day Tim was transferred to the <HI REND="italics">Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Among the acquaintances I made in Honolulu was a Mr. Haskill, a member of the Lower House of Parliament.  One day in December he invited me to visit the House and witness the proceedings.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The two Houses sit in one building.  The proceedings are in the native language, although the Laws and Edicts are generally published in English, which seems to be the language of law in those islands.  On the day of my visit there were seven or eight Members present.  Of the Members of the Lower House half are natives, and the other half are Europeans or foreigners who have been naturalized as Hawaians, for naturalization renders them eligible for office.  The Members of the Upper House were, I was told, native nobles and Ministers of State.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December 29th</HI>
113.sgm:.  On this day we took our departure to survey the "reported shoals and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>We were at sea for more than a month during which time we experienced two cyclones and several gales, but thanks to our Captain's caution, we sustained no damage from them.  We returned to Honolulu on the 5th of February, 1859.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I at once went ashore, and after riding out to Wae&acute;keke&acute; and back I called at the U.S. Consulate, to see if there were any newspapers for us there.  We found several, and on beginning to peruse them after returning on board, I was overjoyed to notice that a commercial treaty had been concluded between the U.S. and Japanese Governments, and that three new ports were to be opened in the July following.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">February 9th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">February 21st</HI>
113.sgm:.  Our departure drew near; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:but I had suffered so much from sea-sickness on board our craft, and had so little duty to do on her that now that I knew my country was to be opened in July, I was anxious to leave the <HI REND="italics">Cooper</HI>
113.sgm: and return if possible <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm: Hongkong or Hakodate.  This would be much quicker than by the schooner, for she was to visit first Manila, and Hongkong and then Loochoo before reaching Japan.  So one day I asked the Captain whether he could consent to my leaving him.  He replied that if I got a passage <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm: Hongkong or Hakodate he had no objection, since I seemed to suffer much from the smallness of the vessel.  If I went <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm:<P>I was extremely sorry to part with the officers and men for they had been very kind to me while on board.  Besides my funds were low, and though if I economized and got the chance of a vessel at an early date I might manage to cross as far as China yet I thought it advisable to consult with one of my kind friends on shore.  When I mentioned the case to Mr. F. Hanks of the U.S. Commissioner's Office he said he would be glad if I would stay at his house till a vessel came for China.  So I sent in my resignation to Capt. Brooke who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Fennimore Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Honolulu, S.I., March 8th, 1859.</P>
113.sgm:<P>MY DEAR SIR,</P>
113.sgm:<P>At your solicitation and in consideration of your health which suffers from long confinement on board so small a vessel as the <HI REND="italics">Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:<P>As you have made arrangement for a passage to Hakodate in the <HI REND="italics">Militia</HI>
113.sgm:, and your way is comparatively clear, I trust that we shall find you in Japan, when we arrive in the <HI REND="italics">Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:<P>I shall be happy to hear of your success, and if at any time you should have occasion to ask aid from me, I shall be most happy to render it.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Your true friend,</P>
113.sgm:<P>(Signed)       JOHN. M. BROOKE,</P>
113.sgm:<P>Lieut.-Commanding U.S.N.</P>
113.sgm:<P>JOSEPH HECO, ESQ.,</P>
113.sgm:<P>CAPTAIN'S CLERK,</P>
113.sgm:<P>U.S. Schooner <HI REND="italics">Fennimore Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:<P>About a week after the <HI REND="italics">Cooper</HI>
113.sgm: had left, the whaling-ship <HI REND="italics">Militia</HI>
113.sgm: was to leave for her northern cruise.  So I made arrangements with her Captain to take me and land me at Hakodate.  But before she went the clipper <HI REND="italics">Sea Serpent</HI>
113.sgm:, Captain Whitmore, from San Francisco for Hongkong entered the harbour.  She had several cabin passengers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:and among them was my old friend, E. M. Van Reed, bound for Japan <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm: China.  He advised me to go with him instead of going on the <HI REND="italics">Militia</HI>
113.sgm:.  I consulted Mr. Hanks about the matter.  He said that if I wished to go in the <HI REND="italics">Sea Serpent</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Next day when the ship was ready to sail Mr. Hanks handed me a first-class ticket.  I wished to pay for it, but my friend said that he had arranged matters with the Captain and that it was all right.  I thanked him for his kindness.  Just as we were leaving in the boat to go on board the clipper Mr. Hanks gave me a note which he wished me to look over when I got on board the <HI REND="italics">Sea Serpent</HI>
113.sgm:<P>We set sail on March the 12th, 1859, and after a run of 25 days we reached Hongkong at 12.30 a.m. of April 22nd.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVII.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>I got up early to see the place I had seen seven years ago.  I at once observed the port was crowded with ships at anchor, that the harbour itself looked busier, and that great improvements had been made ashore since my visit in 1852.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Among the passengers, Messrs. L. Clarke, Van Reed, Geo. Glover, and myself were invited by the Captain to remain on board while the vessel was in port, and all accepted his invitation.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After breakfast I went on shore and called on Mr. Speiden, U.S. Naval storekeeper at this port, to whom I had a letter of introduction from Mr. Bates of Honolulu.  He invited me to take up my quarters at his house while I was in Hongkong, but I thanked him and told him how I was situated.  He told me that Commodore Tatnal was expected from India with the U.S. Minister to China, and that he would leave for the North shortly after his arrival in Hongkong, and that consequently I would have a sure chance of getting back to my country.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">April 10th</HI>
113.sgm:.  Being Sunday, I went ashore in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>On April 17th Capt. Whitmore took me with him on a visit to Canton.  Here I met "Dan," one of my comrades in the junk when we were cast away.  I had not seen him since we had parted on board the <HI REND="italics">Susquehanna</HI>
113.sgm:<P>About a fortnight after I had returned to Hongkong, on May 2nd, I had a call from "Dan" who meanwhile had left Canton.  He asked me to call on his employer Mr. Alcock and I went with him.  He introduced me to a Mr. Corwin, who had been appointed Interpreter to the British Consul-General at Yedo.  He spoke Dutch, a language with which several Japanese were acquainted.  After this "Dan" took me to Mr. Alcock's office and introduced me to him.  Mr. Alcock received me very cordially and entered into conversation with me, and as I was leaving very kindly offered me a post as Interpreter.  This offer I had to decline politely for two reason.  In the first place one of my shipwrecked companions was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May 6th</HI>
113.sgm:.  I had received repeated invitations from Mr. Speiden to take up my quarters at his residence, and now learning that the <HI REND="italics">Sea Serpent</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 10th</HI>
113.sgm:.  By this time it was reported that the U.S. ship <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm:, Commodore Tatnal, was expected from Indian ports with Mr. Ward, the U.S. Minister to China on board.  Early this morning we heard guns and on Mr. Speiden's going out to see what it was, he saw the <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Mr. Speiden immediately went on board the <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm: and in about two hours returned with the intelligence that the U.S. Minister and his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The Commodore read the letter and said that provided it was in his power he would be most happy to give me any aid to return to my native land.  But as things then stood, he was not going to Japan at all, and besides having the Minister to China and his suite on board, he had no spare cabin, having actually had to give up his own one though he was then suffering from a severe attack of gout.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"However," he said, "although my ship is not going up to Japan, I must despatch the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Mr. Speiden, acting upon this hint, took me down to the ward-room and introduced me to the officers.  There were five Lieutenants, three Doctors, the Commodore's Secretary and a Chief Engineer.  They at once invited me to take up my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May 17th</HI>
113.sgm:.  This was the day fixed for the sailing of the <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm:.  I went on board and found a cabin ready for me.  It had been vacated by Lieutenant Semmes who had gone to command the little steamer <HI REND="italics">Toya&circ;wan</HI>
113.sgm:, which had been chartered as a tender.  On the following day the <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm: steamed out for Shanghai <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm: Ningpo.  We arrived at our destination on May 27th, and found the U.S. ship <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On the 29th, I accompanied the officers of the <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm: on a visit to the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When I was introduced to Capt. Nicolson and his officers, they received me very kindly and readily expressed their willingness to give me a passage to Japan, when their ship was ordered thither.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then I was introduced to Mr. Harris, the late <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>I was also introduced to Mr. E. M. Dorr of California, whom the Minister had appointed to the post of U.S. Consul at Kanagawa when that port should be opened to trade.  That gentleman at once offered me the position of official interpreter to his Consulate, and I accepted his offer after consultation with the Minister and others.  The Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm: had offered me a passage, the officers had invited me to mess with them in the ward-room, and now the Consul had given me a government position.  Thus I was nicely placed for my return home, and I returned to the <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm: quite happy and much pleased with my visit to the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Next morning I went on board the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm: with my naturalization certificate and a duplicate which I had made in accordance with the instructions of the Minister.  Mr. Harris read the original <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the afternoon I went to Shanghai and called on Mr. Dow, who was staying at A. Heard &amp; Co.'s there.  He expressed his pleasure at seeing me and said he was waiting to arrange about my engagement, to fix my salary and generally to make preparations for our departure to Japan.  And everything was arranged to the satisfaction of all concerned.  I then went to call on one of my countrymen who was occupying a situation with Dent &amp; Co.  Some 10 or 15 years before our time he had been cast away.  He had been picked up by an English merchantman and at once taken back to Japan.  But the Japanese had fired upon him and driven him away.  So he was brought back to Shanghai and landed there.  Then some missionaries had taken him in hand and educated him and he had at last got a position in the Settlement in which he was doing well.  He was from the Province of Owari, and his name was Ottosan.  It was from him that I first learned what had become of my thirteen shipwrecked comrades that I left at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:Comsingmoon in 1852.  As intended by the U.S. Government they had gone with Perry's expedition to Japan.  But they were afraid to face the officials of their country at Uraga.  In spite of all the Commodore could do, they would not appear on deck.  So Commodore Perry had brought them back to Shanghai, where Mr. Ottosan welcomed them and took charge of them.  Afterwards he applied to the Chinese authorities on their behalf for a passage for them to Nagasaki on one of the vessels the Chinese annually sent there.  The Chinese Government acceded to the request, and the thirteen cast-aways were taken to Nagasaki on one of their junks.  About June 13th, 1859, I shifted from the <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm: to the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Just before we had let go the anchor, a native boat sculled off to us with three officials on board.  These officers were from the native custom-house and came to ascertain who we were, whence we had come, and what the object of our visit was.  The deck officer received them and gave them all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:the information they asked for.  They jotted it down in a little note-book and took their departure.  Shortly after another boat came off.  This was from the English man-of-war <HI REND="italics">Sampson</HI>
113.sgm: to exchange the usual compliments, and soon yet another came from the Russian war-vessels in the harbour on the same errand.  We learned that the <HI REND="italics">Sampson</HI>
113.sgm:<P>About 9 o'clock several sampans came alongside with native dealers in curios, lacquered and porcelain wares, vegetables, fruit and general fresh provisions for the men's mess.  I felt very anxious to speak to them but Capt. Nicolson of the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm:<P>However I kept my ears open to their talk, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>On the 18th we began coaling, and on the following morning the <HI REND="italics">Sampson</HI>
113.sgm: passed out for Kanagawa with the English Consul-General and his suite on board.  On the 21st we were still coaling in the rain.  About dusk it was reported that a Japanese sailor had had a fight with one of our crew and that the former had been badly hurt.  The deck-officer hastened to the scene, where he found a native lying on the deck groaning and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:talking to a two-sworded official standing by him.  The deck-officer asked a marine standing beside them what the matter was.  The marine stated that as he stood on guard beside the paddle-box he had seen one of our crew bringing a small tub of <HI REND="italics">sake&acute;</HI>
113.sgm: on board.  So he seized him and the <HI REND="italics">sake&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The deck-officer tried to convey to the official what the marine had said.  But the interpreter's grasp upon English was so weak, that the official remained as wise as he was to start with, and at last he lost his temper utterly and fell into a towering rage.  Upon this the deck-officer (Lt. Patterson) got tired of talking, and asked the official and the interpreter to come to the quarter-deck, where I was.  They came, and then the Lieutenant asked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Before I began to translate, I asked the marine for the facts of the case.  He stated them as above, adding that it was contrary to the Treaty for any native to sell liquor to our crew, or to Amercian sailors on board ship.  Then I invited the official and the interpreter to come to the officers' smoking-room where we could be quieter, and undisturbed by the noise of the coaling.  When we got seated, I began to explain what the marine had said, in Japanese.  The official started bolt upright with surprise when I began to utter myself in his own tongue in the same idiom and with the same accent as himself.  He dropped all mention of the man's case at once, and began to ply me with question upon question as to who I was, where I came from, and how and where I had learned his language.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Just at this point the deck-officer, who had gone for a bottle of champagne and some cakes to soothe the angry official, came back with the ward-room boy and the wine.  He at once asked me if I had got through with the case.  I replied that I had not got one quarter through it when the official had dropped it to ply me with a string of questions about myself.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"And what did you tell him?" said the deck-officer.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Oh!  I told him I am an American, but he won't believe it," I answered.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At this point the champagne was opened and we toasted each other.  Then I explained the coolie's case as it had been explained to me by the marine.  The official said that the case was not so.  The junk-men had gone to supper, and while they were drinking, an American sailor came and asked them to sell some <HI REND="italics">sake&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:, shewing them a silver piece as a convincing argument.  But they declined to sell the <HI REND="italics">sake&acute;</HI>
113.sgm: since the coin was not of their country.  Whereupon the sailor dropped the coin among them, picked up the tub of <HI REND="italics">sake&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The official said that the sentry had no right to kick or ill-treat a native in any way, and that if the latter had done anything wrong it was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>But the native officer's mind appeared to be far more exercised about my speaking Japanese than about the kicking of that junk-man.  He asked again and again how I came to know his language and who I was but I gave him no opportunity of finding out.  I had been requested by Captain Nicolson to keep my own counsel till we came to Kanagawa and I did so.  This officer belonged to the Daimio of Hizen and his name was Massuda.  I met him again in Nagasaki in 1867.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XVIII.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>On June 22nd we got under weigh for the port of Shimoda.  It took us nearly four days to get there by reason a constant easterly wind and a heavy rainfall.  We found the <HI REND="italics">Wanderer</HI>
113.sgm:<P>As soon as we anchored, Secretary Husken of the U.S. Legation came off to welcome the Minister, and along with him came Capt. James of the <HI REND="italics">Wanderer</HI>
113.sgm: and her passenger Van Reed.  On the following day the Minister began to pack and chartered a native junk into which he put all his baggage and effects.  While the Minister was getting ready I went ashore with the officers of the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>At this place I asked for my stepfather and my brother by their names since I knew that they used to frequent this port in their vessels.  But none of the townspeople knew anything about them, for many of the residents had changed since the Great Earthquake of 1854; the place having been nearly utterly destroyed by tidal waves that swept up upon it soon after the earthquake of that year.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On June 30th the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm: steamed out of the harbour with a junk and the <HI REND="italics">Wanderer</HI>
113.sgm: in tow, and steered for Kanagawa.  About noon we passed Uraga, and as about this time a little light S.W. wind came up, we cast off the <HI REND="italics">Wanderer</HI>
113.sgm: to sail up, and steamed steadily onwards ourselves and came to anchor in Kanagawa Bay about 3.30 p.m.  As we came in we observed the English man-of-war <HI REND="italics">Sampson</HI>
113.sgm:<P>As we entered the port of Kanagawa we observed building everywhere in progress on the Yokohama side.  After we came to anchor a custom-house boat with some officials came alongside.  These gentlemen wore swords, and were in <HI REND="italics">hakama</HI>
113.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">haori</HI>
113.sgm:,--full dress in Japan.  They had come to ascertain the object of our visit.  Our captain received them in the cabin and informed them that we were from Nagasaki, and that we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"I observe, Harris," said the Consul, "that they are erecting houses on the flat opposite to Kanagawa.  I suppose the Japanese Government intend this for a second Deshima, but of course we cannot accept that sort of thing."</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Certainly not," replied the Minister.  "But that will be a battle you will have to fight since you are the Consul of the port."</P>
113.sgm:<P>On July 1st the Governor, Sakai Oki no Kami came on board to pay his respects to the Minister and the Consul.  On this occasion the U.S. Minister intimated to the Governor of Kanagawa that though I had been born in Japan, I was now a naturalized citizen of the United States.  He requested that I should be treated as an American citizen and the Governor made a note of his request.  And ever from that hour to the present I have been treated as such throughout on all occasions by the authorities.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In the afternoon the English Consul-General (Alcock) visited Minister Harris, while Consul Vyse at the same time saw our Consul.  They all had a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 1st</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On the following morning the Governor sent two officers and an interpreter to go with the Consul.  They went ashore about 9 o'clock, selected a site and returned at 11.30 a.m.  The selection was close to the ferry-landing, the Temple of Hongakuji beautifully situated on a little plateau in a cleft of the hills, overlooking the Bay and Yokohama.  In the afternoon I went ashore on the Yokohama side together with the officers of our vessel in order to assist them with their purchases.  When we landed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Over on the other side of the flat, where it was proposed to locate the Foreign Settlement stood Hommura, an insignificant fishing-village with the houses scattered about in an expanse of wheat-fields and vegetable patches.  We noticed one or two blocks of new buildings; those in the centre were meant as residences for the foreign Consuls, those on the outer fringe were meant for merchants and others.  Right between the proposed Foreign Settlement and the Native Town stood the Custom-house and the Governor's Office, while in the rear of the former a number of buildings were already occupied as places of residence by the native officials.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When my friends the officers of the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<illus entity="a113-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Original plan of Yokohama</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:came to pay for the curios they bought at some of the shops, they were astonished to find how much dearer they were than the similar goods they had bought at Nagasaki and Shimoda.  They asked me to find out the reason of this.  So I inquired, and was told that prices had not advanced in any way, but that the coins with which the officers paid for their purchases were different from those in which they had formerly paid.  The shop-men said that the new coin was larger and had more silver in it, and was worth half a Mexican although its face value was only half a <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm:.  (There were 3 <HI REND="italics">bus</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When I explained this the Purser said "Oh!  I see the Japanese Government has issued a new coinage in accordance with the wording of the Treaty that `gold and silver shall be received in exchange weight for weight.'"</P>
113.sgm:<P>We bought no more curios, but went and reported the matter to the U.S. Minister.  He replied that as soon as he went up to Yedo he would bring the matter before the <HI REND="italics">Goro&macr;jiu</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 4th, 1859</HI>
113.sgm:.  This was the date that had been fixed for us to land, to take up our residence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the Temple Cemetery was a large tall tree, and to the topmost branches of this we had tied a pole to serve as a flagstaff.  A little before noon the U.S. Minister, Mr. Harris, Consul Dorr, the Captain and the officers of the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm:, Van Reed and myself, sallied out into this graveyard.  At 12 o'clock precisely we ran up the American colours on this flagstaff.  Then we opened champagne, sang the <HI REND="italics">Star-spangled Banner</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Then we adjourned to the Temple for our first tiffin in Japan.  There were present the U.S. Minister, Mr. Harris, Captain Nicolson and his flag Lieutenant, two doctors from the <HI REND="italics">Mississippi</HI>
113.sgm:, Van Reed and myself.  We tiffined on fish, boiled chicken, roast duck, vegetables, sweets and wines, but there was no beef nor mutton, for neither beef nor mutton was to be had for either love or money or anything else.  On the following day the Minister went up to Yedo to take up his residence there in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Meanwhile we were busy ordering suitable furniture and getting servants.  All the business in connection with this had to be transacted through the Government Officials at Kanagawa, for the people of the place had been cautioned by the authorities to have no direct dealings with the foreigners.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Our mess consisted of the Consul, the Clerk, Van Reed and myself.  The Consul had brought a Chinese boy and a Chinese cook with him from Shanghai.  We also hired some Japanese servants, a house-boy at 8 <HI REND="italics">bus</HI>
113.sgm:, watchman at 10 <HI REND="italics">bus</HI>
113.sgm:, assistant-boy at 6 <HI REND="italics">bus</HI>
113.sgm: and assistant-cook at 10 <HI REND="italics">bus</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On July 17th I received orders from the Consul to purchase cargo for Messrs. Heard &amp; Co.'s schooner <HI REND="italics">Wanderer</HI>
113.sgm:, the Consul being agent for that firm in Kanagawa.  Van Reed and I went over to Yokohama, and in about a week we had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:filled the schooner with a miscellaneous cargo of rapeseed oil, vegetable wax, seaweed, dried cuttle-fish, <HI REND="italics">awabi</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIX.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 21st</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"By all means!" was his reply.  "And bring him up here with you."</P>
113.sgm:<P>Full of excitement I hurried down to the house in the town where I had been told my brother was.  I recognized my brother at once, for being a grown man before the time I was cast away he had not changed in any way.  But with me it was other-wise.  For I had become a man since then, and had become much altered in dress, manner, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>I bowed to him and opened the conversation.  I asked him where our stepfather was, how aunt so-and-so did, what had become of our uncle such-a-one, and if our good neighbour such and such was still alive and in good health.  These questions seemed at last to convince him that I must be his brother; else how could I know so much about our towns-people, let alone merely knowing their names?</P>
113.sgm:<P>At last a glad smile began to spread and play over his face, and he began to answer each and all of my questions.  And when he was fairly persuaded that I was really his brother he burst out crying, and the great tears rolled down his cheeks at the joy of our meeting again after all the years.  The sight of this moved me also to weeping, so that neither of us could utter a word more.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Just then the host and his wife came in with tea cakes, and then we dried our eyes and resumed our talk.  Finally we made an end of it, and then I conducted him to the Consulate and introduced him to Consul.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The Consul was a big, well-made, handsome man standing over 6ft. 2in., with a heavy, gray beard.  He advanced in a somewhat airy manner to shake hands with my brother.  My brother was afraid of his appearance, and the large hand he stretched out to him and the way in which he stretched it out.  He turned and with much apprehension whispered to me:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"What is he going to do?"</P>
113.sgm:<P>I explained to him that in America it was the custom for people to shake hands when they were introduced, just as it was the custom among us to bow on a similar occasion.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"That is very funny!" he said.</P>
113.sgm:<P>But the explanation sufficed to put him at ease, and he at once took hold of the Consul's hand.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After this the Consul ordered the boy to bring refreshments, and requested me to bring out the illustrated papers, pictures, and photographic views he had.  So I brought them and showed them to my brother, and explained to him what each of them represented.  This seemed to utterly overpower him with astonishment.  For with the exception of a few old papers and glass-bottles which my shipwrecked comrades had brought home as <HI REND="italics">miyage</HI>
113.sgm:, this was the first time in his life he had ever seen the pictures of foreign things.  The Consul gave him some foreign coins, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The Consul then requested me to ask my brother to stay a few days at the Consulate.  But he thanked the Consul, and said that he had come for one day only to find out the truth of the rumour he had heard in Tokyo.  For there he had been told by some that I was from the Province of Harima and his own brother, while others had said that I was from Kishiu.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"And now," he wound up, "that I have found that it is a man of Harima and my own real brother, I must return to Shinagawa by to-morrow."</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then the Consul asked him to stay to dinner, and he consented.  At dinner before touching any dish he asked me what it was, how it was cooked, and all about it.  Then when I explained he would at last taste it cautiously saying "That is curious."</P>
113.sgm:<P>When he left for Shinagawa, I gave him a likeness of myself taken in company with Van Reed in San Francisco just before I started in the <HI REND="italics">Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:.  The picture was on glass and was called ambrotype.  My brother took it home and shewed it to all our relatives and friends and in about six months time the news of it spread and reached the ears of the authorities in Osaka.  My brother was summoned by them to appear before them with this mysterious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:and much-talked of picture.  So he went and for more than six long weeks he was kept at his hotel, doing nothing <HI REND="italics">at his own expense</HI>
113.sgm:.  Then he was told to leave the ambrotype there and to return to his occupation.  About six months afterwards he was again sent for by the Governor of Osaka.  So he went up a second time, and the Governor returned the ambrotype to him, charging him strictly to shew it to no one outside the limits of his family.  All this was related to me by my brother at a later visit.  And he added that his taking home that likeness of myself and the foreigner (Van Reed) had cost him many <HI REND="italics">rios</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XX.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>At Iast we received notice from the U.S. Minister that the difficulty about the coinage had been adjusted, and that the <HI REND="italics">Goro&macr;jiu</HI>
113.sgm: had consented to stop the new issue of coins and resume the old standard of 3 <HI REND="italics">bus</HI>
113.sgm: to the Mexican dollar.  On the following day I took several thousand dollars to the Custom-house and converted them into "bu" with which I redeemed the P.N.'s I had given to the native dealers at the time we bought the cargo for the <HI REND="italics">Wanderer</HI>
113.sgm:<P>No sooner had the coinage question been settled than the land question came up.  The English, Dutch and American Consuls had agreed among themselves that Kanagawa should be the site of the Foreign Settlement.  But the Foreign merchants were not of their opinion at all.  For at Kanagawa the water was shallow, while Yokohama afforded much better facilities for shipping and trade.  Besides as Kanagawa was on the course of the To&macr;kaido&macr;, the great public highway, along which <HI REND="italics">Daimio's</HI>
113.sgm: trains were constantly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:passing, the native authorities were also anxious that the Foreign Settlement should not be established there.  For they were aware that many of the <HI REND="italics">Daimios</HI>
113.sgm: were hostile to the Sho&macr;gun's Government and anxious for its overthrow.  And they knew that for this reason many of the <HI REND="italics">Daimios</HI>
113.sgm: ' retainers called <HI REND="italics">ro&macr;nin</HI>
113.sgm:<P>But of this fact the Consuls were ignorant.  They fancied that in endeavouring to locate the Foreign Settlement on the Yokohama side, the Japanese authorities were merely trying to make a second Deshima, (the artificial island in the harbour of Nagasaki where the Dutchmen had been cooped up in the early days of their trade and intercourse with Japan).  In this belief they all strongly insisted that Kanagawa should be the site of the future Foreign Settlement as stipulated in the Treaty of 1858.</P>
113.sgm:<P>One day the U.S. Consul and I waited upon the Governor to discuss the question.  The Governor (Hori-ori binosho) said that he would have no objection to Kanagawa whatsoever, were it not on account of the highway and the consequent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>To this the Consul replied that the Governor must be aware that with respect to the Foreign Settlement, it was stipulated in the Treaty of 1858 that Kanagawa was to be the place of the Foreign Settlement and that nothing was said about Yokohama at all.  The Governor answered that perhaps the Consul was unaware that his countryman Perry who made the Treaty with this country made no distinction between Kanagawa and Yokohama.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"For," went in the Governor, "when he signed that Treaty he signed it right under those trees by the boat house close to the Custom-house, there," (here he pointed to the Custom-house over on the Yokohama side) "and Yokohama was then, and now is, nothing more than the side beach of Kanagawa.  It is not a distinct place at all but only a portion of Kanagawa."</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Consul then look his departure saying that he would investigate this matter with his colleagues.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At length, however Dr. Hall of Walsh &amp; Co.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Thus the Consul's notion of having the Settlement in Kanagawa had to be given up.  For no merchants or foreigners would settle there, with the exception of the Consuls themselves and some missionaries who came later on.  And even they ultimately shifted over to Yokohama.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In the latter part of July the schooner <HI REND="italics">Fennimore Cooper</HI>
113.sgm: arrived from her cruise, all well on board.  Capt. Brooke made an official call on the Consul, and the Consul and I made a return call next day.  The Consul invited Capt. Brooke to dinner on the following evening.  He accepted the invitation, and appeared at the Consulate at the appointed time in undress uniform, and wearing a sword.  At the dinner a peculiar incident occurred.  In the course of the conversation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"Now, Joseph, don't speak of that Captain in that way.  He is my friend, and if you dare to repeat such words at my table again I'll kick you out through that door!"</P>
113.sgm:<P>I replied that I was sorry that he was the Consul's friend, and that I was merely expressing my private opinion of the man based on his treatment of me whilst I was on board his vessel, and asked if I had not a perfect right to express my opinion of a man who had decidedly been no friend to me.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"No, you have not,--not in that way" said the Consul.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At this point my friend Capt. Brooke took the matter up.  "Mr. Consul" he remarked, "you said that Capt. H. is your friend.  What Mr. Heco said about him was only the expression of his private opinion.  Yet you say that if Mr. Heco repeats such language again you will kick him out through that door.  Now, I am a friend of Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The Consul said that Capt. Brooke was his guest and had no right to interfere in the matter.  Capt. Brooke replied that if he was his guest, he (the Consul) had no right to use such language before his guest, but since he had used it he (Capt. Brooke) had a perfect right to interfere, since it had been addressed to a friend of his.  While this hot discussion was in progress a pig's head came on the table.  The Consul took up the knife and fork and began to carve.  And as he did so, he said:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"If any man dares to interfere with my business at my table, I should just like to shoot him right across this pig's head!"</P>
113.sgm:<P>This the Captain chose to regard as a challenge.  So he first flushed up, and then he grew very white and very stern and he said very quietly, but at the same time with a cold hard ring in his tone:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"General D., I accept that challenge.  Choose your weapon and step outside!"</P>
113.sgm:<P>And saying so, he rose from the table.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At this point Van Reed got up and stopped Capt. Brooke from going any further, and tried to smoothe the matter over, and I also besought the Captain "not to take my part so much in earnest."  The Consul too said by way of apology that he did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:not mean what he said as a challenge but only as a joke, and that he did not care to fight a duel.  However, he said, that if he did, he had no weapons in the house.  Capt. Brooke at once retorted that he had the sword he wore on the day of his formal visit to the <HI REND="italics">Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On August 7th, a fierce gale blew overnight and the <HI REND="italics">Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On August 21st, the Consul and I were invited to dinner by the Governors of Kanagawa (Sakai Oki no Kami, and Midzuno Chikugo no Kami) at their office.  Here for the first time we were entertained to a native repast of a first-class order, the <HI REND="italics">sake&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Meanwhile the Russian fleet under Admiral Popoff had appeared in Yedo Bay and had anchored at Shinagawa.  One day they sent a boat with some officers and men to Yokohama for fresh provisions.  On their way back to their boat at the jetty, some native fell upon the party with a heavy sword, and killed one of them outright and wounded others severely.</P>
113.sgm:<P>News of this was communicated to the Consulate by the native authorities about six o'clock.  We hastened to the scene and found that the dead man and the wounded had been taken to Captain Brooke's temporary quarters.  The officer (a midshipman) had been killed by a single cut from behind.  This had been sufficient to finish him outright, and no wonder, for his entrails were visible from behind.  The wounded men had been slightly cut on the head and arms.  At this time there was no foreign practising doctor in Yokohama, so Dr. Hall of Walsh &amp; Co. took charge of the case.  After the deed the assassin had fled and escaped in safety.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Over-night the Russian Admiral came down in a corvette.  The native authorities actively bestirred themselves to find and arrest the murderer.  And in the foreign community of Yokohama there was wild excitement and alarm, and talk of nothing but of means to protect the Settlement.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Then the dead man was prepared for burial and on the third day after the coming down of the Russian Admiral the funeral took place with military honours.  The corvette landed her marines and all the Consuls together with their staffs, and the foreign residents attended.  And this was the first foreign funeral in Yokohama.  It was reported at the time that the Admiral had requested the presence of the Governors at the funeral, and that the Governors had replied that they would be glad to attend, were it not that such a thing was contrary to Japanese custom and usage.  They therefore begged to be excused, offering to send some officers to represent them.  The Admiral told him that they certainly <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
113.sgm:<P>So the old custom had to be infringed and one of the Governors attended by 12 officers had to appear at the ceremony.  They followed the corte&grave;ge at some distance, and this was the only occasion on which the Governor's retainers did not call out to the populace "Down on your Knees!" as was the wont when the Governor moved abroad in the streets and highways and byeways within his jurisdiction.  It was said by the natives at the time that the Governor's compliance with the Admiral's demand was sorely against the grain, and that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>On the following day Admiral Popoff with his Flag Lieutenant called at our Consulate to thank us for our attendance at the funeral.  In the course of the conversation the Consul asked the Admiral whether the native authorities had arrested the assassin.  The Admiral said they had not as yet done so, that he had had several interviews with the Governors of Kanagawa, but there had been great difficulty in their understanding each other, by reason of the want of a good interpreter.  Upon this the Consul proffered my services, if I had no objection to act.  I said I had none, and the Admiral said he would be most happy to avail himself of our offer, and would arrange an interview with the Governors of Kanagawa when he would take the liberty of sending for me.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Two days later he sent a boat with an officer to fetch me.  So I went off to his corvette and from thence went to the Governor's office in Yokohama.  Our party consisted of the Admiral, his Flag Lieut., a young interpreter (who spoke English, French and a little Japanese) and myself.  We were ushered into the audience room where we seated ourselves.  We were there only a few minutes when the two Governors (Midzuno Chikugo no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<illus entity="a113-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Audience Chamber</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The two Governors, the Censor, the Vice-Governor Treasurer, Mayor and ordinary officers seated themselves at the table opposite to us, while their two interpreters stood in the position indicated.  Four reporters, with papers, books, brush and ink squatted on the mat at the foot of the room.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In reply to the Admiral's questions the Governor made the following statement:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>As soon as the Governors had learned that foreigners had been attacked and one of them killed by some unknown native in the streets of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:Yokohama, they had immediately ordered their officers to arrest the assassin.  But when they reached the scene they found that the assassin had fled.  And though ever since that time they had been diligently searching for the culprit, yet he could not be found.  However, one of the officers of the searching party had found the following articles, viz.;-- A tin-box half broken open, close to Yoshida-bashi in Yoshida-shinden; a piece of a broken swordblade near to where the Russian Midshipman fell, and a torn fragment of a brown camlet <HI REND="italics">haori</HI>
113.sgm:<P>At this point the Governors ordered their subordinates to bring in these articles and shew them to the Admiral.  The latter examined them, and found in the tin-box mentioned some Russian silver coins, about nine or ten inches of a broken sword-blade, and a portion of a camlet "haori."  This latter was spotted and spattered with blood-stains.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Admiral then inquired whether the officers were still exerting themselves to find and arrest the assassin or assassins.  The Governors replied that they certainly were doing their utmost to find them and bring them to justice.</P>
113.sgm:<P>This finished the business which it had taken two hours to transact.  At the end of it we were treated to a native tiffin.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In another day or two Admiral Popoff sent for me to come on board his vessel, as he had arranged another and a final interview with the Governors of Kanagawa before his departure for Yedo.  When I arrived there I found one of the Governors with six of his subordinate officials.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Admiral stated that he could not wait any longer in Yokohama and before he proceeded to Yedo he desired to learn from the Governor whether the assassins had been arrested, or whether any clue to them had been found.  To this the Governor replied that they had been doing their utmost to find a clue, but that up to then "they had been rather unfortunate and had failed to find out anything about them."</P>
113.sgm:<P>At 1 p.m. we had tiffin in the cabin.  It was served in regular Russian style and was an utterly new experience to me.  They had plenty of garlic and brown bread which the Admiral recommended to me as very healthy fare, and told me to do justice to them.  But not being used to these articles I rather fought shy of them, and paid attention to the other dishes which were really excellent.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About 3 p.m. the Governor and his suite went on shore.  The Admiral then asked me to come on deck.  I went and we talked as we walked to and fro.  He asked me whether I fancied the Japanese <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"Now Mr. Heco, you have been of great service to us, and I wish to recompense you in some way.  What would you wish?  Please name it, and if it is in my power, I will do it with the greatest pleasure.  For if it had not been for you I could not have found out so much as I have from the Governor of Kanagawa."</P>
113.sgm:<P>I said I did not wish anything as the services I had rendered were so very slight.  But the Admiral said:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"That will never do; but we'll see."</P>
113.sgm:<P>Shortly after this I bade the Admiral good-bye and came on shore.  On the following day I went out with the U.S. Consul and the Governor of Kanagawa to select and survey the lands intended for American residents on the Kanagawa side.  In our absence Admiral Popoff called at the Consulate to say <HI REND="italics">sayonara</HI>
113.sgm:.  He left a gold watch with Van Reed for me, with a message to the effect that the watch had been worn by him for some time, and that he wished me to accept it as a slight token of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When we came back from the survey, and while we ( <HI REND="italics">i.e.</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Some days after Admiral Popoff had reached Yedo it was said that he had presented three demands to the Sho&macr;gun's Government through the <HI REND="italics">Goro&macr;jiu</HI>
113.sgm:<P>1st.  To remove the Governors of Kanagawa for their neglect in not arresting the assassins at the time the attack was made.</P>
113.sgm:<P>2nd.  To cede one half of the Island of Saghalien to Russia, as an indemnity for the carelessness of the Sho&macr;gun's Government on the above occasion.</P>
113.sgm:<P>3rd.  To spare no time or efforts or money to find, arrest and punish the assassin or assassins, and to notify the Russian authorities of the arrest as soon as made.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Whether the rumour was correct or not I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXI.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>In the month of September the Consul sent me to order some cre&circ;pe and silk for him.  A man called Saikaya, a silk-dealer well known in the town, brought the samples to the Consulate.  He had heard of my history, and shewed a great wish to talk with me about what I had seen, and he and I became firm friends.  In the course of one of our conversations I happened to say that though I took a cold bath daily, yet I should like exceedingly to have a hot one, but that was still impossible since our hot-bath had not yet been fitted up.  He at once said that he had a big one at his house, and that he would be delighted to have a bath prepared for me whenever I wished.  So I at once took him at his work and asked him to prepare one for me next afternoon.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Next day about two o'clock he sent his son, a boy about 15 years old, to say that the bath was ready.  I went down at once.  When I arrived I found an official of the local Government with his servant in my friend's reception room with tea and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>During this month of September, merchants and traders from China ports and elsewhere began to flock into Kanagawa, and in consequence the Settlement of Yokohama began to gather dimensions apace, and trade became brisker and brisker day by day.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September 7th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>A few days afterward the Governor of Kanagawa invited the Consul and myself to dinner at Noge-hill.  We accepted and immediately began to prepare for the event.  On account of his size, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:it was not possible for the Consul to find a Japanese <HI REND="italics">norimono</HI>
113.sgm: that would hold him; they were all too small.  So he caused a huge one to be specially built for him.  After some difficulty he got into this, and with still more difficulty he was safely hoisted Chinese-fashion upon the shoulders of six sturdy coolies.  Then I got on horseback attended by my <HI REND="italics">betto</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Then the procession started.  It was a grand and overpowering affair, and all the people of the town came crowding out to gaze upon us as we passed.  Ahead of the Consul in his monster-sized <HI REND="italics">norimono</HI>
113.sgm: went the dauntless Kenzo, while his two fellow-servants walked on each side of the Consul to protect his valuable life from casual assaults.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:I rode on horseback in his rear, while my <HI REND="italics">betto</HI>
113.sgm:<P>And thus in this array we fared along the Tokaido, and then turned to the left to the Yokohama Causeway and at last we came to Noge-hill, the residence of the Governor.  And all along the road the people crowded to see us pass in unfeigned amazement and respect(?).</P>
113.sgm:<P>When we reached the gate the officials of the Governor were there to receive us.  They bowed low and led us into the courtyard.  There the Consul and I dismounted, and once more the officials bowed low before us and conducted us into the reception room, where we found the Governor and his staff.  Then took place the usual long and formal greeting of each other, and at last when the ceremonies of salutation were finally done and ended, cups of tea were set before us.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Presently dinner was announced and we were solemnly ushered into another room.  Here we found a European table set out, an exact fac-simile of the one in our Consulate.  Only instead of plates, the dinner was served on Japanese tables or trays, one placed before each guest on the main table.  The fare consisted of raw fish, soup, fish cooked and broiled, fowls and eggs.  The attendants were males, arrayed in all the glory of <HI REND="italics">haori</HI>
113.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">hakama</HI>
113.sgm:.  This dinner was a grand and great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the course of this month the trade in <HI REND="italics">koban</HI>
113.sgm: and native swords became unusually brisk.  And about this time it seemed good to the Government at Yedo to issue a notice to the effect that this traffic must cease, and that any native detected in selling <HI REND="italics">koban</HI>
113.sgm:<P>But notwithstanding, this very trade went on flourishing apace.  Overnight the native dealers would come to the foreign quarters with stores of <HI REND="italics">koban</HI>
113.sgm: concealed in the folds of their garments.  For the profits they made by selling them were immense, while such foreigners as were lucky enough to secure these coins also did a good deal more than a very good thing.  For the <HI REND="italics">koban</HI>
113.sgm: could be got for 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm: each, that is for from $2.17 to $2.73 at the rate of 3 <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm: to the dollar, while it was sold in China for from $3.50 to $3.85, and when sold as a curio it fetched as much as $5 or $7.  Swords too costing 3, 4, or 10 <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm: each could be sold as curios for from $10 to $20, if sent out of the country.  But on account of their bulk it was more difficult to bring them to market, and the law was very severe on the vendor if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the beginning of October the barque <HI REND="italics">Onward</HI>
113.sgm: came in from San Francisco with several passengers among whom was a Mr. K.  He brought a letter of introduction from my old friend and first employer Mr. T. G. Cary of California.  In the course of the <HI REND="italics">Onward's</HI>
113.sgm:<P>About two days before he left he drew up a memorandum of partnership in which it was stipulated that if I joined him he was to furnish all the capital and fittings for house and office, while I should give my services only, all profits to be equally divided between us.  This looked to me a very advantageous offer, as my salary at that time was small, and my term of engagement with the Consul not fixed.  So I closed with Mr. K.'s proposal and we both signed the document.  He promised to return in the March of the following year, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the course of this month another foreigner was killed at the native jetty in Yokohama.  This time it was a Chinaman, a shipping coolie in the employment of Dent &amp; Co.  This assassin also fled and escaped and has never been discovered or arrested even unto this day.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January 1860</HI>
113.sgm:.  Our Minister had arranged with the Japanese authorities that they should send an Embassy to America, and that the said Embassy should be conveyed there and back at the expense of the U.S. Government.  In consequence the U.S. Government had sent a supply of coal for the vessel that was to carry the Ambassadors, and the Japanese had sent down an old hulk--the <HI REND="italics">Yak-kai-maru</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Shortly after the year set in, Dan, one of my shipwrecked comrades who had been engaged with the British Consul-General, had been cut down at Takanawa, in the midst of the highway in open daylight.  He was helping some boys to fly their kites in the street about 4 p.m.  Suddenly a man, with a great broad straw-hat down over his face came behind him, plunged a cruelly-sharp dirk into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After this occurrence, it was reported that about a week before the Governors of Foreign Affairs had gone to the British Legation and requested the Minister to allow Dan to go to the Kanagawa Consulate for a few months as the Government were afraid lest some mishap might befall him.  This the Consul-General had regarded in the light of an ordinary Japanese threat, and accordingly he told the native authorities that Dan was an employe&acute; of the Legation and under the British Flag, and that he (the Consul-General) would see to it that he was protected.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In the latter part of January there came into port the U.S. ship <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm:, which was to convey the Embassy to America.  The native steamer <HI REND="italics">Kanriu-maru</HI>
113.sgm: of the Sho&macr;gun's Government also anchored in the port.  She was to accompany the Embassy as far as San Francisco.  Captain J. M. Brooke, late of the <HI REND="italics">Fennimore Cooper</HI>
113.sgm:, offered his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:services to pilot the <HI REND="italics">Kanriu</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">February 2nd</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"He is a faithful and obedient servant" said Capt. Brooke, "and has worked most willingly."</P>
113.sgm:<P>He then handed over the bag with the Mexican dollars, and requested the Governor to have them exchanged for native currency, and handed to the man.  The Governor said he would do so with pleasure, and thanked Capt. Brooke for taking such good care of a Japanese subject, and bringing him safely home.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We afterwards learned that Tim was kept for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:a few days at Kanagawa under the care of the Governor.  Then he was escorted to Yedo by two subordinate officials of the Governor, and there delivered to the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: of his native Province (Awa).  He was by his authority subjected to an examination as to how and when he had left Japan, and where he had been.  About two months after this, his <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: made him a <HI REND="italics">Fuchi-nin</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">February 5th</HI>
113.sgm:.  I was requested by the Governor of Kanagawa to ask Capt. Brooke to call at his office next day, and to accompany him there myself.  When we went, the Governor said that the Sho&macr;gun's Government had sent down some presents to Capt. Brooke, as a token of their appreciation of the offer of his services to pilot the <HI REND="italics">Kanriu-maru</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On February 13th the Japanese Embassy went on board the <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm:.  It consisted of two Chief Ambassadors, Shimmei Buzen no Kami and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When the Embassy went on board I was asked by the U.S. Consul to go and assist in interpreting, and I did so.  Afterwards I went on board the <HI REND="italics">Kanriu-maru</HI>
113.sgm: to say <HI REND="italics">sayonara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Perhaps this was the first time in the history of the Tokugawas that they had despatched an Embassy to Western countries.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At the close of February I quitted the Consular service.  But I agreed to act as Consul's Interpreter without remuneration whenever my services might he required, as a small return for all the kindness I had received at the hands of the Americans during my sojourn in their country.  And I continued to interpret until I left for America in the latter part of 1861.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXII.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P>On leaving the Consulate, I started business as a General Commission Agent in Yokohama, pending the arrival of my partner from California.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On March 10th the barque <HI REND="italics">What Cheer</HI>
113.sgm: came in from San Francisco with my partner, and Mr. E. S. Benson, and a few other passengers on board.  She had $10,000 in treasure, but no cargo.  The vessel and the treasure were consigned to our new firm.  When I went on board, my partner told me that the vessel had been chartered by his friends Messrs. P. &amp; B. of San Francisco at his suggestion, and that the vessel and the $10,000 he had brought as "starter" of our business were alike under his sole control.  He also brought all the necessary furniture and fittings for our house and office.  But beyond this there was nothing, and inasmuch as the $10,000 had to be invested in merchandize to be sent back on the barque, there was no great abundance of the wherewithal to conduct our operations.  When K. landed he had not a dollar to his name, and I had to advance the sum necessary for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>We found it difficult to buy cargo for the <HI REND="italics">What Cheer</HI>
113.sgm:<P>So until these $10,000 could be converted into native currency, we advertised for freight for Hong-kong, and sent the <HI REND="italics">What Cheer</HI>
113.sgm: there with a full cargo.  After we had despatched her we went on exchanging our dollars day by day.  But the process was so slow that by the return of our vessel we calculated that we should have barely half the amount of our money converted into <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm:.  So one day I requested the native authorities at the Custom-house to grant me the exchange of, say $5,000, at once as a special favour.  To this the Vice-Governor, Shibata Sadataro, replied by letter that he could not grant any such favour to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">March 25th, 1860</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When this occurrence became known there was great excitement and alarm among foreign residents, while all sorts of rumours were passing from mouth to mouth among the natives.  The latter seemed to be overpowered and stricken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:helpless at the idea of the Regent of the Empire being struck down in the midst of his four hundred retainers by a few desperate outlawed men.  It was reported that the Government at Yedo had notified to all the Foreign Representatives that the Prince Regent had been attacked by <HI REND="italics">ro&macr;nins</HI>
113.sgm:, but that his wounds were slight and that his life was in no danger.  And it was said that on account of this intimation the British Minister (who had been a military or naval doctor) had offered his services to attend on the Prince, if the Yedo Government so desired.  And that the Sho&macr;gun's Government thanked him for his offer but declined it, saying that the Prince Regent was progressing favourably.  Notwithstanding this statement on the part of the Japanese authorities, about two weeks later they had to intimate to the Foreign Representatives that the Regent had died from wounds received at the hands of assassins.  The fact of the case however was that the Prince's head had been shorn from his shoulders by one of the sons of the <HI REND="italics">Daimios</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Owing to this mishap to the Prince the revenues of his successor were reduced from 350,000 <HI REND="italics">koku</HI>
113.sgm: to 240,000 <HI REND="italics">koku</HI>
113.sgm:, as a punishment for the head of the house neglecting to guard himself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The cause of the occurrence, I was informed at the time from an authentic native source, was as follows:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>Under the Government of the Sho&macr;gun the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: were classified as <HI REND="italics">Kokushiu, Tozama</HI>
113.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Fudai</HI>
113.sgm:, together with the royal houses of the <HI REND="italics">Sanke</HI>
113.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Sankio</HI>
113.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Sanke</HI>
113.sgm: were the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: of Kii, Owari and Mito, the <HI REND="italics">Sankio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Of the <HI REND="italics">Sanke</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Now at this time the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: of Mito was a very ambitious man and anxious above all things to become Sho&macr;gun.  But he could not become Sho&macr;gun openly and legally.  But at this time there was no heir in the house of Hitotsubashi, so he got his seventh son adopted into that house with a view to placing the same at the helm of the State at some future date.  And should the young Hitotsubashi become Sho&macr;gun, the old <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: of Mito <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>At this time the reigning Sho&macr;gun Iyesada was quite young and old Mito was his guardian.  Being thus Vice-Sho&macr;gun and continually at the Castle he intrigued with one of the physicians of the Court to get the boy Sho&macr;gun removed, in order that his own son Hitotsubashi might reign in his stead.  This was an easy matter to accomplish, for in those times it was the daily custom of the Court Physician to feel his Master's pulse and administer medicine to him whether he was sick or not.  And thus it came to pass that Iyesada died of poison in 1858.</P>
113.sgm:<P>This plot was detected by the Prince Ii-Kamon-no-Kami, who held council with the dignitaries of the Sho&macr;gun's Government on the subject.  The physician who did the deed was arrested, and on being examined confessed how and at whose instigation he had made away with his Lord.  Whereupon sentence of death was passed upon him.  And the Lord of Mito was dismissed from the office of Vice-Sho&macr;gun, and ordered to retire to his own province and confine himself in his own castle as a punishment.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After this a new ministry was formed and a new Sho&macr;gun was selected from the stock of Kii.  This Sho&macr;gun was still a Minor, so a Regent was appointed from one of the two houses from which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>And so this Lord of Mito found all his plans reduced to naught, for not only had his son in the house of Hitotsubashi failed to become Sho&macr;gun, but he himself had been stripped of all his power and banished ingloriously to his Castle in his Province.  Now at this his household and his retainers were sorely angered.  And 37 men of his following headed by one of his sons vowed vengeance against the Prince Regent Ii Kamon no Kami and lay in wait for him.  And at last in the midst of the whirling snow-drift of the 25th of March they had succeeded in their fell design, and had killed and cut off and carried away the head of the Regent as he was on his way to the Castle to pay his respects to the Sho&macr;gun and to felicitate him.  The day was one of the five grand holidays of the land, and the Regent's progress towards the Castle was in true feudal style.  Four hundred trusty henchmen followed in his train.  But on account of the driving sleet they had donned rain-coats to prevent their arms and dress taking damage from the storm, and hence when the attack of the 37 Mito <HI REND="italics">ro&macr;nins</HI>
113.sgm: burst upon them, they were hampered and impeded.  These thirty-seven men had been lurking in disguise, waiting for their chance for months, and now at last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>At the time it was told with bated breath, and even to this day you will hear the story with head-shakings and solemn looks from gray-beards that were young men at the time, how when he was about to step into his sedan-chair the string of the Regent's <HI REND="italics">mage</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">April 1860</HI>
113.sgm:.  In the course of this month there was yet another assassination in Yokohama.  This time the victims were Dutchmen, the Captains of a barque and of a brig then in port.  It seemed that about dusk the twain were walking quietly in the Main Street of the native town, when without any warning a man crept up behind and fell upon them with a sword and cut them down.  One of the Dutchmen left his hat and an arm about two blocks away from his body, according to the statement of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
113.sgm:.  About this time the increase in the foreign population caused much embarrassment at the Custom House.  It was there that the dollars had to be exchanged for native coins.  Now the Mint of Yedo was unable to meet the demand made upon it, and on account of this the authorities notified that no one could exchange more than 10 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:dollars <HI REND="italics">per diem</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 4th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>This was reported to the Americans in Yokohama, and angered them greatly.  They determined to resent it and to give the Consul an opportunity of making good his threat.  During the night they set all the native tailors in the town to work upon the American flag.  And next morning the Stars and Stripes were floating over every American residence in the Settlement.  But that Consul did not come over and pull down these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<illus entity="a113-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Matsuri Procession</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 13th</HI>
113.sgm:.  This was a great day in the annals of the native town.  It was the first celebration of the <HI REND="italics">matsuri</HI>
113.sgm: or festival of the Goddess Benten in the place.  From early morning no fewer them 6 <HI REND="italics">Dashi</HI>
113.sgm: or dancing-cars were in the streets, adorned with figures of warriors, gods and goddesses.  They were drawn through the streets by bevies of handsomely dressed <HI REND="italics">geisha</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 20th</HI>
113.sgm:.  To-day there was a great depreciation in the value of the dollar.  This was because the Yedo Mint had ceased to buy dollars.  In the morning the quotation was 290 <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The first Land Regulations issued by foreign Consuls at Kanagawa are as follow:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>I.--MODE OF ACQUIRING LAND.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Any person desiring to lease land within the location fixed upon for Foreign Renters must first apply to the Consul or Consular Agent of his nation officially and in writing, or if there be none appointed, to the Consul of any friendly power, specifying as nearly as can be ascertained the locality and boundaries of the said land, and the said Consul or Consular Agent will thereupon enquire of the Land Officer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>II.--ONLY BONA&circ;-FIDE RESIDENTS ELIGIBLE TO RENT LAND.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Allotments of land will be made only to bona&circ;-fide residents, and renters of land will be required, under penalty of forfeiture of Title-deed, to erect within six months after date of Title-deed and in accordance with these Regulations, buildings of a value of not less than:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>On water lots       $150 for each 100 <HI REND="italics">tsubo</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"  rear lots       50  "  "  100  "  "</P>
113.sgm:<P>III.--FINAL SETTLEMENT AND TITLE-DEEDS.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The priority of the individual claimant having been determined as aforesaid, a note under the hand and seal of the Consul will be furnished him for delivery to the Land Officer who will without delay proceed with him to measure the land in question.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The measurement having been ascertained, the money for one year's rental will be immediately paid to the Chief Land Officer, who will give a receipt in triplicate, with translation of the same, stating also the measurement and boundaries of the said land.  Two copies of the said receipt will be handed by the Renters to his Consul, who will transmit one copy to the Governor.  The Governor will forthwith issue Title-deeds in Triplicate <HI REND="italics">in the form agreed upon and hereunto annexed</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The Governor will also notify the other Consuls of the issue of such Title-deeds, specifying the measurement and boundaries of the land.</P>
113.sgm:<P>IV.--BOUNDARY STONES TO BE PLACED.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When land is rented a time will be appointed, and stones having the number of the Lot distinctly cut thereon, to define the boundaries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>V.--STREETS, ROADS, SEWERS AND JETTIES.</P>
113.sgm:<P>It is clearly understood and agreed to, that land devoted to public use, as streets, roads, etc. is not included in the measurement of rented Lots, and is not to be infringed on in any way.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In the acquirement of new Lots of land, provision shall be made for the requisite extension or creation of Streets, Roads and Jetties.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The proprietorship of the soil being in the Japanese Government, the Streets, Roads, and Jetties will be at all times kept in thorough order, and Sewers or drains will be made when necessary by the Japanese Government, and no tax will be levied on Renters in the Foreign quarter for this purpose.</P>
113.sgm:<P>VI.--RENT WHEN PAYABLE.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The annual Rent payable to the Japanese Government on the land rented within the Foreign Quarters will be payable in advance on the--day of the--month of each year.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Governor will address the several Consuls ten days previous to the said date, stating when, where, and to whom the said rent must be paid, and the said Consuls will give notice to the Renters.  The officer appointed to receive the Rent will give a receipt in triplicate, with translation for the same, one copy of which shall be archived by the Governor, one copy by the Consul, and one be delivered to the Renter.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Should a Renter neglect to pay the Rent on the day fixed, the Governor will acquaint the Consul under whose jurisdiction the defaulter is, who will enforce immediate payment.</P>
113.sgm:<P>VII.--TRANSFER OF LOTS.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The interest in a Lot shall always be held in Law and Equity to reside in that person in whose name the Title of Record appears, and no Title shall pass unless the Deed is lodged for Record within three days from the date of the conveyance;--but no lot can be transfered within one year after the date of Title-deed.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Within the said Foreign Quarter no Japanese shall erect new houses or sheds so near the residence or places of business of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>No Japanese shall open a place of public entertainment within said Location without the unanimous consent of the Consular Authorities, under the penalties hereinafter provided against maintaining nuisances.</P>
113.sgm:<P>VIII.--EXTENT OF LOT AND USAGE TO WHICH APPLIED.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Straw sheds, Bamboo or Wooden houses, or buildings of inflammable kinds shall not be erected in the Settlement, nor shall any trade or profession be carried on within its limits, dangerous to the safety of life or property, or obnoxious to the general health, under a penalty of $25 for every twenty-four hours such nuisance shall remain unabated.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Nor shall contraband goods or merchandize likely to endanger life or property,--such us gunpowder, sulphur, saltpetre, large quantities of spirits, and such like, be stored in the premises of any individual under a penalty of $25, and $25 for each twenty-four hours the nuisance shall remain.  The place where such trades or professions may be carried on, or where such merchandize may be stored must be sufficiently distinct from other dwellings or warehouses to prevent all risk of damage or inconvenience, and be fixed upon by the authorities after consultation together.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The public road must not be encroached upon or obstructed, by scaffolding for the purpose of building, or by building materials of any kind, beyond the time essential for the completion of the work.  No one shall encroach upon the road or shall at any time block it up by heaping up goods and such like, for any length of time, under a penalty of $10 for each twenty-four hours they remain after a notification by the Japanese or Consular authorities to remove them.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The public or individuals must not be inconvenienced by the accumulation of filth in gutters or upon the roads; by the firing of guns, carelessly creating noise or disturbance, riding or driving, or leading horses up and down the-chief thoroughfares for exercise or by any act coming legitimately within the meaning of the term <HI REND="italics">nuisance</HI>
113.sgm:, under a penalty of $10, on commission of either of said offences.  All fines shall be recovered before the Consul of the nation to which the offending party belongs, or if there be none in the port <HI REND="italics">then they may be recovered before the Japanese authorities</HI>
113.sgm:, and shall be paid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>IX.--STREET LAMPS AND POLICE.</P>
113.sgm:<P>It being expedient and necessary that some provision should be made for the lighting and cleaning of streets and for a watch or Police Force, the Foreign Consul aforesaid shall at the beginning of each year convene a meeting of the Renters of Land within the said Foreign quarters to devise means of raising the requisite funds for these purposes; and at such meeting it shall be competent to the said Renters to declare assessment in the form of a Rate to be made on the said Land or Buildings, and in the form of wharfage dues on all goods landed at any place within the said Quarter; and to appoint a Committee of three or more persons to levy the said Rates and Dues, and apply the fund so realized to the purposes aforesaid, or in such manner as may be agreed and determined upon by all at the said meeting; and to that end the said Committee shall be empowered to sue all defaulters in the Consular Courts under whose jurisdiction these may be; and in case the said defaulters have no Consular Representative at this Port, then the Governor of Yokohama shall upon application of the Committee through the foreign Consuls, recover from such Defaulters the amounts due from them for Land assessment or wharfage-dues, and pay the same to the said Committee.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Moreover, at such yearly meeting the accounts of the Committee for the past year shall be laid before the assembled Renters for their approval and sanction.</P>
113.sgm:<P>It shall be competent for the Foreign Consuls collectively or singly, when it may appear to them needful, or at the requisition of the Renters of Land to call a public meeting at any time, giving ten days' notice of the same, setting forth the business upon which it is convened, for the consideration of any matter or thing connected with the land; provided always such requisition shall be signed by not less than five of the said Renters, and that it set forth satisfactory grounds for such request.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Resolutions passed by a majority at any such public meetings on all such matters aforesaid shall be valid and binding upon the whole of the Renters of Land within the said limits, if not less than one-third of them are present.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The Senior Consul present at any such meeting shall take the chair, and in the absence of a Consul, then such Renter as the majority of voters present may nominate.</P>
113.sgm:<P>If Renters of Land in Public meeting assembled, as herein provided, decide upon any matters of a municipal nature not already enumerated, and affecting the general interest, such decision shall first be reported by the Chairman to the Consuls for their joint concurrence and approval, without which approval officially given, such resolution cannot become valid and binding upon the Renters as a body.</P>
113.sgm:<P>X.--SALE OF SPIRITS OR LIQUORS; OPENING OF PUBLIC HOUSES, &amp;C.</P>
113.sgm:<P>No Foreigner or Japanese shall sell spirits or liquors, or open a house of entertainment within the Foreign Quarter without a License to do so from the said Consuls, or the Majority of them, and if a Japanese, also from the Governor, and upon good and sufficient security given for the maintenance of order in their establishment.</P>
113.sgm:<P>XI.--BREACH OF REGULATIONS.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Should one of the Consuls at any time discover a Breach of the Regulations or should information thereof be lodged with him, or should local authorities address him thereon, he shall in every case within his jurisdiction summon the offender before him, and if convicted, punish him summarily.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Should any Foreigner who has no Consular authority at this port commit a breach of the Regulations, then and in such case the Japanese chief authority may be appealed to by any one or more of the Consuls to uphold the Regulations in their integrity and punish the party so infringing them.</P>
113.sgm:<P>XII.--PROVISIONAL CLAUSE.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Hereafter should any correction be requisite in these Regulations, or should it be necessary to determine on further Regulations, or should doubt arise as to the construction of, or powers conferred thereby, the same must be consulted upon and settled by the Consuls and Governor in communication together, who shall equitably decide thereon, the Consul submitting the same for confirmation to the Representative of their respective countries of Japan.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The Consuls referred to in these Regulations are Consuls, (or persons duly acting as such,) of powers having Treaties with Japan.</P>
113.sgm:<P>(Signed.)       F. HOWARD VYSE, H.B.M. Acting Consul.</P>
113.sgm:<P>(  "  )       E. M. DORR, U.S. Consul.</P>
113.sgm:<P>(  "  )       D. DE GRAAFF VAN POLSBROEK, H.N.M.'s Vice-Consul.</P>
113.sgm:<P>A true Copy,</P>
113.sgm:<P>PHILLIP BUCHANAN WALSH, Acting Junior Assistant.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Kanagawa, Japan, August, 1860.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October 25th</HI>
113.sgm:.  The U.S. ship <HI REND="italics">Hartford</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October 31st</HI>
113.sgm:.  Our Consul gave a Ball in honour of the Commodore and the officers of the <HI REND="italics">Hartford</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November 1st</HI>
113.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Hartford</HI>
113.sgm: was to proceed to Yedo, and many of the American residents were invited by the Captain and officers to visit the city, and many of those engaged in business <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>We arrived at Shinagawa and went ashore, and Mr. Hall and myself called on our Minister, Harris, and paid our respects to him.  He received us civilly enough, yet it was not difficult to see that he was by no means over-pleased with our visit.  For we were only <HI REND="italics">common citizens</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Some days afterwards Hall and myself called on the British Minister and his staff at their Legation, and afterwards we went to see our old friend the Abbe&acute; Girard.  He was now attached to the French Legation, living in a house of his own, in a nice quiet spot near the Legation Compound.  He had been in the Loochoo Islands for several years, during which he had acquired the Loochooan language.  When Japan was thrown open to foreign trade he came up to Yokohama and there built the first Catholic Church in the town on the spot where it now stands.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When we called he said that he was very pleased to see us, and on our remarking that we had very little time to see the sights of the city as the <HI REND="italics">Hartford</HI>
113.sgm: had to leave next day he invited us to stay with him.  Hall and myself accepted this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:kind invitation with alacrity; and promising to be back that evening we sallied out sightseeing.  We had tiffin in a restaurant over in Fukagawa.  It consisted of fish cooked and raw, fowls, eggs, boiled rice, vegetables and fruit.  I asked for the bill and the landlord brought it.  The total was 2 3/4 <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm:, or less than a dollar.  This included tiffin for Hall and myself, for two officers (our guards) and four grooms, and feed for four horses.  I asked the proprietor whether that was all, and whether he had not made a mistake.  He said that that was all and that no mistake had been made.  I paid the bill and gave half-a- <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm: as <HI REND="italics">chadai</HI>
113.sgm:.  The landlord thanked me profusely and the whole household escorted us to the door to say <HI REND="italics">sayonara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>That night our portmanteaus came ashore from the <HI REND="italics">Hartford</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After dinner we were enjoying a smoke when some native officers were announced, wishing to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:see the Abbe&acute;.  He excused himself and went to meet them in another room.  In half-an-hour he came back and told us that these men had been sent by the U.S. Minister to inquire why and wherefore we were in Yedo seeing that the <HI REND="italics">Hartford</HI>
113.sgm: had left.  The Abbe&acute; had replied that we wished to see the sights of Yedo, and that as the <HI REND="italics">Hartford</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"And," had wound up the Abbe&acute;, "when you return to the American Minister please tell him with my compliments that if in future he should find in Yedo any of my countrymen situated similarly to these gentlemen, I shall feel much obliged if he will invite them to his Legation, and hope and trust that he will have the goodness to do so."</P>
113.sgm:<P>Upon this the officials took their departure, and nothing more was heard from the jealous Minister.  Mr. Harris seldom if ever went out, so we inferred that he knew of our being in the city from the English Minister whom we had met on our way back from Ju-ni-so, and that he had immediately sent these officers to annoy our host and ourselves.  Upon this Hall and myself consulted and decided to return to Yokohama at once rather than occasion any unpleasantness between the Abbe&acute; and the U.S. Minister by our further stay.  So next morning we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November 9th</HI>
113.sgm:.  To-day the U.S. frigate <HI REND="italics">Niagara</HI>
113.sgm: steamed up the bay and anchored in Yokohama harbour.  On board of her were the ambassadors who had left in February on the <HI REND="italics">Powhatan</HI>
113.sgm:.  I went off to congratulate them on their safe return.  They told me that they had been treated everywhere in America with the utmost kindness and courtesy and that they had been much pleased with their visit to the States.  The Chief Ambassadors, Shimmi and Murakami, asked me to thank the Captain and officers of the <HI REND="italics">Niagara</HI>
113.sgm: for the kindness and attention they had received at their hands since they came on board, and also to write in their names to some people in the U.S.  In the afternoon the <HI REND="italics">Niagara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>In the course of this month the Moss shooting affair took place at Kanagawa.  In the trial which ensued, I was requested by Capt. Vyse, the British Consul, to attend and watch the case.  My duty was to see that no undue influence should be exerted by the native authorities on the Japanese <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December 5th, 1860</HI>
113.sgm:<P>NOTIFICATION NO. 15,</P>
113.sgm:<P>British Consulate, Kanagawa, Dec. 5th, 1861.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The deplorable collision in which an officer of the Taikun has been dangerously wounded and is likely to lose his life, renders it imperative on the undersigned, H.B.M.'s Acting Consul, to take measures to prevent the repetition of such untoward occurrences.  British subjects have already been informed by public notification that the pursuit of game by fire-arms is prohibited by Japanese Law within the limit of this port, but it now seems further necessary to advise them that residence in a foreign country carries with it by the common polity of nations, the obligation to obey its laws.  This obligation holds good in Japan, no less than in other countries, in all cases where exemption has not been especially stipulated by treaty in the form of specific rights and privileges.  The right to disregard any Japanese laws not specially suspended is not a privilege conceded by the Treaty of Great Britain with Japan.  Certain Treaty rights exist by express stipulation, and all that legitimately follows, as necessary to the full enjoyment of these, is secured, but nothing beyond.  The manifest law of Japan is in all respects as binding upon foreigners as on Japanese.  It behoves British subjects to understand distinctly therefore, that they are not only responsible for the infraction of Japanese laws when they have not been suspended in their favor by Treaty stipulations, but according to the laws of Great Britain for all consequences which may result from the commission of an unlawful act.--So far does the law go, that if one intending to commit a felony undesignedly kill a man, it is murder.  Whenever a person does an act lawful in itself but in an unlawful manner, or without due caution and circumspection, and a life is lost, it must be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The undersigned is further called upon to remark upon the common practice of carrying fire-arms during the day and in the most ostentatious manner.  There is no apparent danger to justify this practice, while on the other hand it is itself a source of danger, provoking hostile feelings and distrust among the natives, and placing within reach of many, whose non-command of temper under provocation, or whose discretion under other circumstances cannot be trusted, such dangerous weapons as revolvers.  There is something especially provocative and irritating in such ostentatious display of fire-arms, for men supposed to be following the avocations of merchants which are or ought to be entirely peaceable.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Nor is the danger one which affects only the person carrying the weapon, but it may at any moment involve a whole community in peril.  Considering these circumstances therefore and regarding such carrying of fire-arms between sunrise and sunset as a provocation to a breach of the peace and a common source of danger to the community, British subjects are hereby prohibited from so offending <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The undersigned can see no adequate justification for this, and is certain it would be much better avoided to the interests of their employers and of the whole community of foreigners residing at this port.</P>
113.sgm:<P>(Signed.)       F. HOWARD VYSE,</P>
113.sgm:<P>H.B.M.'s Consul, Kanagawa.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December 22nd</HI>
113.sgm:.  This morning we received news from Yedo to the effect that one of the late Governors of Kanagawa--the Governor for Foreign Affairs--Hori Oribe-no-Sho had committed <HI REND="italics">harakiri</HI>
113.sgm: in his sedan-chair on his way home from the Castle.  It seems that about this time some foreigners were buying up large quantities of flour and exporting it to China, owing to which the price of wheat and flour had been considerably enhanced.  This caused discontent and clamour among the vermicelli and maccaroni dealers in Yedo.  So the <HI REND="italics">Goro&macr;jiu</HI>
113.sgm:, Ando&macr; Tsushima no Kami, thought fit to put a stop to the export of flour, by prohibiting the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:natives from selling it.  Against this Hori protested, arguing that the Treaty said nothing about any prohibition of the export of flour, although it was perfectly explicit about wheat, rice and barley.  This assertion on the part of Hori gave offence to Ando&macr;.  He did not say anything to Hori or attempt to argue the point with him, but he quietly got up and left the audience chamber.  Hori immediately got up also, seeing that his words had been displeasing to the <HI REND="italics">Goro&macr;jiu</HI>
113.sgm:<P>It is further rumoured that immediately after Hori had left the Castle the Sho&macr;gun learned what had just transpired.  He knew that Hori was a straight-forward, high-spirited man, and he knew furthermore what was as likely as not to happen under the circumstances.  So fearing lest Hori should commit some rash act, he immediately sent a dispatch pardoning him for arguing against the order of his superior.  The messenger with this despatch arrived at Hori's residence just as Hori's train was approaching the gate.  The door of the <HI REND="italics">Norimono</HI>
113.sgm: was the opened by attendants and the messenger was just about to deliver the dispatch when they discovered that Governor Hori had thrust his dirk into his belly and had disembowelled himself.  He lived just long enough to hear the Sho&macr;gun's dispatch read, and then he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In consequence of this deed of Governor Hori, his son was immediately appointed Governor of Kanagawa by the Sho&macr;gun.  This fact was notified to the Foreign Consuls about two weeks after his father's death.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December 29th</HI>
113.sgm:.  It is reported that some of the <HI REND="italics">ro&macr;nin</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January 1st, 1861</HI>
113.sgm:.  It was reported that three <HI REND="italics">ro&macr;nins</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January 16th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January 20th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>H.M.'s Ship <HI REND="italics">Encounter</HI>
113.sgm:<P>January 25th, 1861.</P>
113.sgm:<P>SIR,--I enclose for your information and guidance a copy of an official communication I have addressed to the Minister of Foreign Affairs in Yedo, in which the Japanese Government is informed of my resolution to withdraw from the capital temporarily, and made acquainted with my reasons for this step.  This resolution has been taken in concert with my colleagues, the Representatives of France and the Netherlands, between whom and myself there is the most perfect accord, as the best means of averting eventualities calculated to interrupt all friendly relations.  I must in common with them hope that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In furtherance of this object it is my purpose to take up my residence at Kanagawa or Yokohama, and there await communication with the Japanese Government on the spot from which any danger of violence will then be removed, and when all British subjects in this port of Japan are collected, I shall be enabled to take more effective steps for their security with the assistance of H.B.M.'s ships.</P>
113.sgm:<P>My relations with the Japanese Government will not be interrupted nor trade interfered with while negotiations are pending for the more effective maintenance of treaty rights than has hitherto been found possible.  In this way I trust much good may be ultimately effected with the least chance of injury to existing interests and you will in nothing alter your demeanour or usual course of action at the post under your jurisdiction.  The object of this movement on my part (and I may say on that of my colleagues), you will explain to the Governor of Kanagawa, is not to create a rupture, but if possible to arrest any such calamity, and by every available means, while relieving the Government of Japan from a great danger, to induce them without further delay to take what steps may be necessary to place their relations on a better and safer footing, and above all to give that security to life and property which has been greatly in default from the beginning and latterly wholly wanting.</P>
113.sgm:<P>You are at liberty to make known the contents of this dispatch and its enclosure for the benefit and information of British subjects at your port.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I have, &amp;c.,</P>
113.sgm:<P>(Signed)       R. A--.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Minister, &amp;c., &amp;c.</P>
113.sgm:<P>(TO BRITISH CONSUL.)</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The enclosure the Minister referred to in the above was addressed to the Japanese Minister of Foreign Affairs, at Yedo, and is as follows:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>H.M.'s Legation, Yedo,</P>
113.sgm:<P>January 26th, 1861.</P>
113.sgm:<P>A long series of assassinations both here and at Yokohama, in which foreigners have been the victims, preclude the possibility of the lately renewed menace of a general massacre being regarded as a mere idle demonstration of ill-will.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The recent murder of Mr. Heusken, and the shameful conduct of the <HI REND="italics">Yakunins</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When to those circumstances must be added the grave fact, that of all the numerous cases of assassination and murderous assaults committed on foreigners during the last eighteen months, the offenders in no one instance have been seized or justice done, it is evident to demonstration that no reliance can be placed on the measures hitherto taken by the Government to secure either the prevention of similar crimes in the future or the punishment of the guilty.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The past is over and nothing the Japanese Government can do now will bring back the dead to life, or repair the wrong done, but it is otherwise in regard to the future and the <HI REND="italics">assured immunity of crime</HI>
113.sgm:<P>This is in fact to outlaw every foreigner and to place the Representatives of Foreign States, no less than the rest, at the mercy of whoever may find pleasure or advantage in killing them.  Under such a regime, life is only held at the will and pleasure of every ruffian in the Empire.</P>
113.sgm:<P>This may well seem too monstrous and too opprobrious to be possible in the least civilized of states, yet I have only stated in plain terms the exact truth susceptible of proof by facts which admit of no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>I need not ask the Japanese Government if this is a position which they think fitting for the Diplomatic Agents of the Great Western Powers in treaty with Japan.  I will not do them the injury to assume for a moment that they can consider it possible for the Representatives to accept such a position.  I feel sure on the contrary, that not only your Excellencies, but the Government of Japan, and I could hope the great body of the <HI REND="italics">Daimios</HI>
113.sgm: and governing classes in the country, regard such acts of murder and efforts to place the Ministers of Foreign Powers under a regime of intimidation, with shame and indignation.  But granting this as I willingly do, whence then comes this perfect impunity to criminals guilty of those acts; this continuance in the same odious and disgraceful policy?  It is for the Government to answer; for they are responsible by the Law of Nations.  In the eyes of all the world they are responsible for the maintenance of order, and that respect for the laws which protect life and property.  If they fail in these, they cease to preserve the essential character of a Government and lose their title to the respect of Foreign Powers, who can only treat with those who govern <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
113.sgm:, and not merely in name.  This is indeed the very condition of their permanence as a Government, and they cannot forget it without imminent peril.  The Government of Japan therefore is menaced in its own existence by such a state of misrule, and in their own interest I must urge their actual situation upon their most serious attention.  It is or should be unnecessary to recapitulate here the leading facts which during the eighteen months past, ever since indeed the ports were opened by treaty, have in continual sequence tended to the same end, namely to render the position of Foreign Representative intolerable and untenable by continual menaces, restrictions to his free intercourse, and encroachments on his independence, by assaults unrepaired and unpunished, and finally by insecurity of life.  And a like series of events has marked our relations at the ports, exposing the Foreign residents to similar grievances, with a systematic disregard of all the rights and privileges guaranteed to them by Treaty,--Official interference in the free sale and purchase of produce, obstructions, restrictions, exactions,--in a word all the machinery that the authorities and subordinate officials with absolute power of control over Japanese subjects could devise for their own profit and the injury of Foreigners.  The assassination <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:of Mr. Heusken, following close upon menaces of a general massacre communicated to the Foreign Ministers by your Excellencies, followed up again by the intimidation from the same quarter on the morning of the funeral, when the Representatives of Foreign Powers were all assembled to render the last honours to the murdered that they themselves were in danger of being attacked on the way to the cemetery if they ventured to proceed, was more than sufficient to remove that last trace of doubt or hesitation in my mind, and I think in the minds of most of my colleagues, as to the necessity of instant and decisive action on our part.  But lest this should not have been enough, it seemed as if it had been determined to furnish one more conclusive evidence how little the Government could be relied on for our defence and protection, by leaving the whole line of road, more than a mile in length, open to attack.  There were no guards on the ground, or extra-ordinary means of caution and protection I do not say to <HI REND="italics">resist</HI>
113.sgm: an attack it had sent warning was to be feared, but to prevent the possibility of the most desperate murderer to attempt it.  Here were the lives of all Foreign Ministers in Yedo, together with the whole of their respective Legations, and the Consuls from Kanagawa declared by the Government to be in immediate danger,--they were all at one spot assembled, and it was not deemed worth while apparently to adopt a single measure for their defence and protection.  This act was conclusive,--that the Government should allow a member of one of the Legations, to be murdered while the whole corps diplomatic was under menace of a similar fate, and yet consider it unnecessary even in the cemetery to make any communication to Her Majesty's Minister at this Court, whose own safety and that of his Legation were in question could no longer be a subject of surprise.  The courses were perfectly consistent with each other.  Moved by those considerations, and perfectly convinced by all the experience of the past of the utter hopelessness of any further efforts by mere remonstrance on the spot to effect the change which it was too plain could not be deferred without risk of the greatest complications, and it might be a real calamity, if unfortunately further lives should be lost, I took immediate steps, after the funeral to communicate with my colleagues, and announced my resolution to avert, if possible, the danger I foresaw in the continued supineness of the Government.  I determined with this view to withdraw temporarily from the Legation at Yedo, and I now write to acquaint you that I have carried this resolution into effect and that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>There, I shall wait with calmness the result of further communication with the Government of the Tycoon, free for the first time for eighteen months, if not from the menaces of assassination, at least from any anxiety of such threats being immediately carried into execution, to the peril and disgrace of Japan.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I trust your Excellencies and the Council of State, to whom I pray you to communicate this dispatch, will see in this decision an earnest desire to avoid to the utmost, and as long as possible, a cause of rupture or more serious complications, but also a firm resolution to insist upon such total changes in the policy hitherto pursued towards British subjects in common with all other foreigners as shall give that security to life and property, and full enjoyment of Treaty-rights, which they are entitled to demand.  My long continued personal relations with your Excellencies, and their uniformly friendly character, lead me to hope that sharing in the regret I feel for this untoward impediment to a good understanding you will see the necessity of similar decisive action with your colleagues in the Government, that this standing reproach may be removed.  The faction of violent and unscrupulous advocates for a system of terrorism and assassination, whom I must suppose to be the real authors of such troubles <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
113.sgm: be controlled, whatever be the rank or number of these concerned, or nothing but grievous consequences, from which Japan will be the first and greatest sufferer, can follow, in spite of the sacrifice and efforts I am now making to prevent such a catastrophe.  The Government in a word must show that it has the will and ability to impose respect upon all the disaffected spirits who would seek for their own ends, to disturb the good relations hitherto existing between the Treaty powers and Japan, and which on the part of Great Britain the Government of Her Majesty is most anxious to maintain for the mutual advantage of both countries.  They must no longer be permitted to take life with assured impunity, and follow out a system of intimidation in the vain hope of driving foreigners out of the country by murder and terrorism.  Europe united would resist the attempt and render its success <HI REND="italics">impossible</HI>
113.sgm: and punish the authors of such an outrage on the law and right of nations.  Could they even temporarily effect their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Even were such a flagitious policy ever to be carried out, the whole country would fall under the law of civilized nations, and be dealt with as a common enemy.  I trust for the interest of humanity such deplorable contingencies may be rendered impossible, and that both the Government and the people of Japan will be convinced that their policy is faithfully to fulfil their engagements and to maintain friendly relations with a Power which has at its diposal ample means for obtaining, in case of need, redress for injuries done to its subjects.  I have only in conclusion to urge upon the Government, the importance of putting a speedy end to the present exceptional state of affairs.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I am anxious for a peaceable and satisfactory termination, and ready to return to the Legation and resume my duties at Yedo whenever I can see such material guarantee for redress in respect to past grievances and security for the future as may warrant this step.  I have in the meantime left all my property undisturbed in charge of the officers in my house, for the safety of which the Government will of course be responsible.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Whether my return will be prompt or tardy therefore depends entirely upon the Japanese Government.  Sooner or later it is certain that the Representative of Great Britain will return to Yedo, the place of residence assigned by Treaty; but if speedily there will be less time for new complications to arise, and affairs may be more easily arranged with mutual benefit and on a better footing than hitherto, to my regret, has been found possible, if no time be lost.</P>
113.sgm:<P>With respect and consideration,</P>
113.sgm:<P>(Signed.)       RUTHERFORD ALCOCK,</P>
113.sgm:<P>H.B.M.'s Minister, &amp;c., &amp;c.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">February 15th</HI>
113.sgm:.  Owing to the sad death of Mr. Heuskens, the Interpreter to the U.S. Legation, some correspondence was said to have taken place between the English and the American Ministers to the Court of Yedo.  The letter addressed by the U.S. Minister to the British Representative <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Legation of the U.S. in Japan, Yedo, February 12th, 1861.</P>
113.sgm:<P>SIR,--I have to acknowledge the receipt of your note dated the 22nd ultimo; transmitting a <HI REND="italics">compte-rendu</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">compte-rendu</HI>
113.sgm:<P>You request me to sign a protocol to the effect that the <HI REND="italics">compte-rendu</HI>
113.sgm: is a correct record of the conferences above referred to.  You must be aware that it is not in my power to certify to the correctness of the report of the conference held on the 21st January, as the only knowledge I have of that conference is derived from the <HI REND="italics">compte-rendu</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The Japanese Government has constantly warned the diplomatic Representatives of existing danger, from the first day of their arrival in this city, and shown its anxiety to secure their protection.</P>
113.sgm:<P>It was only desired that foreigners should use the same means of protection which the Japanese use universally among themselves.  It is well known that those of a rank corresponding to Foreign Ministers have their houses surrounded by a large number of guards, and that they never go out without being accompanied by a numerous train of armed attendants.  Is it just therefore to require the Japanese to protect us with other appliances than those used for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In judging of the acts of this Government, it is important that the political antecedents be taken into consideration.  For more than two centuries this country has been hermetically closed against foreigners; this barrier so rigidly maintained is suddenly removed, and the country opened to foreign intercourse.</P>
113.sgm:<P>It is well known that a large party of men of high rank are opposed to the new order of things initiated by the treaty, and that in this city that opposition is concentrated and in its greatest intensity.  The manifestations of ill-will are principally confined to the followers of the <HI REND="italics">Daimios</HI>
113.sgm:<P>To demand therefore of the Japanese Government the same observances, the same prompt administration of justice as is found in civilized lands, is simply to demand an impossibility, and to hold that Government responsible for the isolated acts of private individuals, I believe to be wholly unsustained by international law.  This principle is not acted on in the Western world.  Not long ago, a London <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In March last the Regent of Japan was assassinated.  Only part of the murderers have thus far been arrested, and of those not one has been punished yet.  This delay in inflicting punishment on the assassins of one so exalted in rank as the Regent shows that the Japanese mode of procedure is different from that of the Western World.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I desire to put upon record my firm belief that so long as I observe the precautions recommended by the Japanese Government and used by the Japanese themselves, my residence in this city is a perfectly safe one.  To retire to Yokohama with the intention of producing an effect upon the Japanese Government will I think, prove a mistake.  There was not one article in the American Treaty more difficult to obtain than the one securing residence in Yedo of the Diplomatic Representative of the U.S.  The commissioners on that occasion warned me of the grave difficulties which a residence of a Foreign Minister was sure to create in Yedo, and they were very solicitous that I should accept a permanent residence in Kanagawa or Kawasaki with the right to come to Yedo whenever my duty required.</P>
113.sgm:<P>This retirement of the Foreign Legations to Yokohama is exactly what the Government desires, as it relieves them from great anxiety, responsibility and expense, and they allege that the Legations can be more conveniently protected at Yokohama than in Yedo.  Instead therefore of the retirement giving offense to the Japanese Government, it will be held by them as a very desirable result, and I apprehend that a residence there will lead the Japanese mind to confound the Foreign Representatives with the Foreign traders, an effect which cannot fail to injure both their prestige and influence.</P>
113.sgm:<P>For the reasons thus briefly set forth I deprecate the action of my colleagues, believing as I do that without producing any beneficial effect it is an important step towards a war with this country.  The people of this country (Japan) cannot be raised to our standard of civilization by the stroke of a diplomatic pen nor even if they have fifty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Permit me to request you to transmit a copy of this note to your Government to be annexed to the <HI REND="italics">compte-rendu</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Your obedient Servant.</P>
113.sgm:<P>TOWNSEND HOWIS,</P>
113.sgm:<P>U.S. Minister Resident.</P>
113.sgm:<P>To RUTHERFORD ALCOCK, Esq.,</P>
113.sgm:<P>H.B.M.'s Envoy Extraordinary, Minister Plenipotentiary, &amp;c., &amp;c.,</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">March 1st, 1861</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 5th, 1861</HI>
113.sgm:.  We received intelligence that the British Legation had been attacked by the Mito <HI REND="italics">ro&macr;nin</HI>
113.sgm: and that several persons had been wounded.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September 16th</HI>
113.sgm:.  For the past six or eight months I had been frequently warned by the native authorities of Kanagawa and Yokohama to be careful of myself.  They cautioned me not to ride out on the To&macr;kaido&macr;, or to any place at all distant from the Foreign Settlement, inasmuch as it was a well-ascertained fact that several <HI REND="italics">ro&macr;nin</HI>
113.sgm: deemed me worthy of their attention, and were on the outlook for me to cut me down.  There warnings had of late waxed far too frequent for my comfort.  At the same time I had some idea of making a visit to America, partly in order to take some presents to my friends who had been so kind to me during my sojourn in that country, and partly to obtain the post of U.S. Naval store-keeper, inasmuch as this position would entitle me to gold bands on my cap and so place me on an equality with the native officials.  So I got ready and started in the ship <HI REND="italics">Carrington</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXIII.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October 17th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November 10th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November 12th</HI>
113.sgm:.  I was sent for by Mr. Mudge, the chief of the appraiser's office in the Custom House, to give some information with respect to certain Japanese porcelain and lacquer-ware which had come by the <HI REND="italics">Carrington</HI>
113.sgm:.  One of her passengers had sold his vessel, and with the proceeds had invested in curios to the extent of over $15,000.  The ware was of a common kind enough, but it was new and strange to the Custom-House authorities and they fancied that its value was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>A few days lates I started for the East, furnished with the following documents:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>San Francisco, November 13th, 1861.</P>
113.sgm:<P>To the Hon. GIDEON WELLES, Secretary of Navy.</P>
113.sgm:<P>SIR,--We beg respectfully to recommend to your notice, Mr. J. Heco as a suitable person to fill the office of the U.S. Naval Store-keeper at Kanagawa, Japan.  Mr. Heco is a Japanese by birth, but a naturalized citizen of the United States--having lived for several years in this country.  He speaks the English language fluently and has received a thorough mercantile education in this city.  In 1858 Mr. Heco returned to Japan, in the employment of the U.S. Government and was of great service to the American Consul at Kanagawa, as Interpreter.  Mr. Heco's object in applying for the office is to obtain a rank in the employ of the U.S. Government, which will place him on equal footing with the Japanese officials.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We know Mr. Heco to be a person of worth and integrity, and have no doubt he will be of great service to the U.S. Government if he is placed in a position where he can act directly with the Japanese officials.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We are, with great respect,</P>
113.sgm:<P>Your obedient Servants,</P>
113.sgm:<P>(Signed.)       THOS. G. CARY.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  MACONDRAY &amp; Co.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  WM. COLEMAN &amp; Co.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  FLINT PEABODY &amp; Co.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  TALLENT &amp; WILD.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  HENRY HENTCH.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  C. ADOLPH LAW &amp; Co.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  CHAS. BROOKS &amp; Co.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  WM. NEWWELL &amp; Co.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Custom-house, San Francisco, Collector's office, November 14th, 1861.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The signers of the above memorial are Merchants and Bankers of high standing, and their representations are entitled to great weight.  I entirely concur in them.  It is within my own knowledge also, that Mr. Heco stands very high at Kanagawa.  I have no doubt if an appointment of the kind referred to is to be made, his appointment would be very beneficial to this country.</P>
113.sgm:<P>(Signed.)       IRA. P. RANKIN, Collector.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  JAS. T. MCLEAR, Surveyor.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  RICH. CHIVENY, Navy Agent.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  W. B. FARWELL, Naval Officer.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  SAML. MUDGE, Appraiser.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  S. H. PARKER, Paymaster.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"  ROBT. STEVENS, Superintendent, U.S. Branch Mint.</P>
113.sgm:<P>We arrived at Panama in due course, crossed the Isthmus and got on board the Company's steamer <HI REND="italics">Champion</HI>
113.sgm:<P>When the stranger saw us bearing down upon him at full speed, he set all sail, got up steam and tried hard to run out of our course.  It was plain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:that he took us for a U.S. warship.  When he discovered that we were only a private mail-boat, he again hung out signals of distress.  Then when our Captain paid no attention to this, but drove on straight ahead as fast as steam would carry him, the stranger gave chase.  But it was to no purpose.  Afterwards we learned that it was the privateer <HI REND="italics">Sumter</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December 16th</HI>
113.sgm:.  About 2 p.m. we sighted the entrance to New York Harbour, and the pilot came on board with an armful of newspapers.  Our passengers fell upon them with avidity, for they were all wild to learn the war news.  The headings of the articles were of this cast:  <HI REND="italics">The grand Army of the Potomac to move at an early date; A Great Battle imminent; The Southern Army 100,000 strong marching on Washington; One of the Federal Colonels to be tried for treason; The British Government make a formal demand on Uncle Sam to deliver up Mason and Slidell</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Our passengers were all wildly excited at this and especially so over the British demand.  Some asserted that the U.S. Government would never surrender Mason and Slidell, while others shook their heads and said that if the men were not given up war would inevitably follow, for the English would never let the matter rest as it was.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December 17th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December 29th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On December 31st, I went to Mrs. Cary's where I found Mr. Cary, her daughter and Prof. Agassiz.  I handed him the letter of introduction I had from his brother-in-law (Mr. T.G. Cary, Jr.).  He read it and said that he would give me letters to Secretary Seward, Senator Sumner and others, which would help to carry my business through.</P>
113.sgm:<P>At dinner the Professor asked me about my own country and more especially about its Natural History.  He was very anxious to obtain specimens and asked me if possible to send him some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:when I got back.  I promised to do so, and some time after my return I did send him about 20 cases of butterflies and other entomological specimens.  They were shipped on the good ship <HI REND="italics">Contest</HI>
113.sgm:, but like many another good ship of that time she had the ill-luck to run across tho <HI REND="italics">Alabama</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Mrs. Cary was very interested in our country and about the East generally.  She was about 72 or-3 years of age, but hale and active.  It was a matter of bitter regret to me that her husband, the gentleman who had written me such kind letters when I was in difficulties, had gone to another world and was no more.  Thus I never had the chance of seeing him or of thanking him in person for all the kindnesses he had rendered me.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After dinner the Professor wrote several letters and handed them to me--all of them open.  From them I could see that he was on very intimate terms with those he addressed, as the terms and expressions he used were in a most familiar style.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When I returned to my hotel I found a young gentleman waiting for me.  He was young Mr. Temple of Dorchester.  He had been sent by his father to invite me to stay in his family while I was there and would not take "no" for an answer to his invitation.  So I gladly accepted and went.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January 1st, 1862</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After a stay of two days at Dorchester, and two more at New York I returned to Baltimore.  I called on my old gentleman, Mr. Sanders, and he at once invited me to stay with him.  He was highly delighted to see me, he said.  When I told him the object of my visit he said that he would go with me to Washington, introduce me to Senator <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January 7th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The dining-room presented a gay scene.  Everywhere were caps with gold-bands, everywhere men with shoulder-straps and brass buttons.  And everywhere above the clatter of forks and knives and plates resounded the hum of talk, and that talk was all about war and slaughter and the movement of armies.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On the way from Baltimore I had observed that nearly the whole extent of the road from there to Washington was lined with tents.  Most of the men under canvas appeared to be raw recruits, evidently in evil plight by reason of the inclement sky that had been shooting down driving showers of rain and whirling sleet upon them for the last few days.  For all the world their seeming was that of sick chickens in the midst of an autumn downpour.  In the city were throngs upon throngs of strangers; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the evening we called on the Californian Senator, Mr. Latham, and his wife.  We were received with great kindness and consideration, but this being a formal call, we refrained from touching on the special business that had brought us.  I only hinted that I had brought letters from California for him, saying that I would call with them next morning.  Upon this the Senator said that he would be busy in the morning, and invited Mr. Sanders and myself to dine with him and his family in the evening when we could talk over business at our leisure.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Next morning I went and called upon several of my old friends, among others on Mr. Wallace, Editor and Proprietor of one of the leading papers, and who had been very kind to me during my previous visit.  On my way to the Capital I met the Hon. H. May of Maryland.  He conducted me to the Senate Chambers, and from there to the Supreme Court.  As we entered he introduced me to several of the Judges, among whom one in particular, Justice Craine I think, was very kind, and asked me many questions about my country.  He seemed to take quite a deal of interest in Japan <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When I got back to the Hotel, I found that my old gentleman had finished his business and gone back to Baltimore, leaving a message with me for the Senator.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In the evening I went and dined with the Senator.  Before dinner I handed him several letters of introduction from friends in California, and also shewed him the memorial to the Secretary of the Navy drawn up by the San Francisco merchants and bankers.  He read them and said:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"You have the strongest recommendations, for the signers of the memorial are the most noted and influential men in San Francisco, and I am pretty sure you will get the appointment.  However, you had better bring these documents tomorrow at nine o'clock, and I will go with you to see the Secretary of the Navy about it."</P>
113.sgm:<P>About 10 o'clock I took my leave.  While on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>He called out "Who goes there?" or words to that effect.  I had no idea that he was speaking to me, so I went on towards him.  Suddenly he repeated the words, and raised his rifle and pointed it at me.  As quick as thought I called out "Friend," upon which he brought his gun to its former position and I passed on safely.  I was told afterwards that on account of the war the city was under martial law, and that after 9 p.m. all passengers were saluted in the same unceremonious fashion as I had been by the soldiers on guard.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January 9th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"Senator, you know as well as I do that with the present trouble, I cannot make any increase in the staff of the Naval depo&circ;t in the East.  Besides, it is possible that we may have to order home the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>So saying he handed back the memorial, and the Senator and I took our leave and set our faces towards the State Department.  When we entered that Department we found Mr. Seward busy signing thousands of passports for military men and others.  These passports were strewn in wild confusion all over the floor.  Mr. Seward glanced at us as we entered and said "How do you do, Senator?" and shook hands with him.  The Senator then tried to introduce me, but Mr. Seward interrupted him saying.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Why, Senator, I know him.  This is my old acquaintance and friend who was here with your predecessor Senator Gwin!"</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then he turned to me remarking that I had grown greatly since the last time he had seen me.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Senator explained our business and handed him the memorial.  Mr. Seward read it and said:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"I see that your friend wishes the naval store-keeper's post, but why not take the position of interpreter; for the last enactment has just created an interpretership at the Kanagawa Consulate, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Then turning to me he went on:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Since you have come so far, you had better wait a little and take that position."</P>
113.sgm:<P>I thanked Mr. Seward for his kindness and agreed to wait and accept the post.  We then took our leave, the Senator going off to the Capitol and I to my hotel.</P>
113.sgm:<P>On my way I called on Mr. Summer (Senator from Massachussetts) to whom I had a letter of introduction from Prof. Agassiz of Cambridge.  He received me very cordially, but he was very busy writing out a speech.  However he said he would be happy to give me all his aid in promoting my affairs and asked me to call again.  So I cut short my visit, thanked him for his kindness and promised to do as he requested.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January 12th</HI>
113.sgm:.  After dinner as I was smoking in the reading-room; a stout, well-built gentleman of about 45 came up to me and asked me whether I was not from Japan and called Mr. Heco.  I told him I was.  He then told me his name, and said his sister was married to Mr. G--. in California and that he had written to him to find me and take me home to stay with his family while I was in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">February 6th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After dinner my host and I went out to call on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"Madam and gentlemen," he began right away, "excuse my intrusion, but I act by the orders of my superior officer.  Are these all that are in the house?"</P>
113.sgm:<P>As he said this he swept his eye over all four of us.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Our host answered "Yes."</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Then," the officer went on politely enough but in tones of authority that sounded as if he would take no denial, "all the gentlemen are requested to accompany me to the Provost Marshal's office."</P>
113.sgm:<P>At this, our host and Captain Boothe looked wonderingly at each other, and then the former turned to me and said he was more than sorry that such a thing had happened in his house.  He made a thousand apologies to me for the occurrence and protested that he could not in the least understand what the Provost Marshal meant or wanted.</P>
113.sgm:<P>However there was no help for it, so out we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>When we entered the office we saw two officers in uniform,--one sitting by the fire reading a newspaper with his back to the door, and the other at a desk writing.  They both looked at us keenly as we entered, and the Lieutenant saluted and said that he had brought us according to orders.  The officer by the fire ran his eye over us again, and then pointing at me, said brusquely:--"That is the gentleman that is wanted, Lieutenant.  Please take him upstairs."</P>
113.sgm:<P>Upon this I went up to the Captain and took out my passport and showed it to him, remarking that he must have taken me for somebody else.  Mr. Bryant and Capt. Boothe also endeavoured to explain.  The Captain read the passport and then said that he received a telegram from Washington, ordering him to arrest me, "So please follow that officer upstairs," he said coolly in a tone that meant he did not wish me to argue the question with him.</P>
113.sgm:<P>So I had no alternative but to leave my friends, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:and follow the officer.  I was taken up to a dirty looking room of about 18 &times; 16 ft. with an uncarpeted wooden-floor which appeared to be virgin soil as far as any broom was concerned.  In it were a few wooden benches and a litter of canvass duck sails in one corner.  And here the Lieutenant left me.  In the inner room I found an occupant who at once entered very eagerly into conversation with me.  When I asked why he was there, he said that he would be very glad if some one could give him just that self-same identical piece of information, for it was more than he knew "by a lot."  He had been taken up at the line about two weeks before and had been kept in this unswept ice-chest ever since, with no fire, and only canvass duck-sail for a blanket, and food that a fairly decent Christian wouldn't think of offering to his pigs.  As for a chance of communicating with his friends and relatives, or of letting them know where he was there was none.  He talked very bitterly and at the same time very eloquently about his plight, and earnestly besought me to make his case known when I got out.  Just at this point the Lieutenant came back and asked me to walk down-stairs with him.  He told me that my friends had made arrangements with the Captain and the Provost-Marshal so that I might leave the place.  So I went down-stairs with him, and met Messrs.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>On our way home they informed me that they had to give bonds to the extent of $25,000 for my re-appearance when wanted.  I told them that I had hitherto had no adequate idea of my own worth or importance.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">February 10th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>It seemed that a report had got about that the Confederate General, B-- had suddenly disappeared from his own quarters and been seen near Washington reconnoitering preparatory to an attack on the Federal Capital.  Just at this moment one of the detectives who all unknown to me had been shadowing me for several days appeared at his office with an old faded photograph of the General, and saying "That's the man," pointed at me.  So the Provost-Marshal had me arrested at once, not knowing or even dreaming that any Japanese was wandering about in the town of Alexandria.  After my arrest he had sent for the detective to come and identify me, but he had not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>We went to Washington and saw Mr. Seward.  I asked him about my application, and told him what had befallen me on the previous day.  He laughed and said that in times like those such mistakes had often taken place, and that it was very flattering to me to be taken for such a distinguished man.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">February 11th</HI>
113.sgm:.  During the night there was a fire in the town.  It was in the newspaper office, and it was burned to the ground.  It was rumoured that some soldiers had set fire to the place, on account of an article in the paper on the arrest of the Clergyman Sunday, which was not altogether to the liking of these men of war.  Next day it was reported that some Volunteers from Illinois had prevented the fire-men from putting out the fire, and that the Commanding officer of the city had ordered these volunteers out of the place in consequence.  They went away in the night, but returned next morning to defy the order.  On account of this the Commanding officer was said to have sent in his resignation to the Headquarters at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">February 13th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Early in the forenoon it commenced to rain, and the rain soon turned into sleet and then into snow.  My host insisted that I should prolong my stay with him but I had made up my mind to leave.  So at 11 a.m.  I thanked him and his family for their hospitality, bade them <HI REND="italics">sayonara</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">March 10th</HI>
113.sgm:.  During the previous day we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:had heard the dull rumble of cannonading in the distance.  And now to-day the place was wild with excitement at the news.  A great naval battle had been fought at Hampton Roads between the North and the South.  The Southern warship <HI REND="italics">Merrimac</HI>
113.sgm: had rammed the Federal men-of-war <HI REND="italics">Cumberland</HI>
113.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Congress</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">March 12th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"Ah!" said he.  "So you are ready to go back to your native country!  But have you seen our Tycoon?"</P>
113.sgm:<P>I said that I had not yet had that pleasure.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then he said that I must not go away without seeing "our great man."  And he asked me to wait a little, as he would then take me and introduce me to the President.</P>
113.sgm:<P>In a quarter of an hour or so he said, "Now, Mr. Heco, we will go."  So saying we walked out of his office, and into the rear garden, when he look hold of my arm and walked me across to the President's mansion.  As we walked on he said:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"To-day is Cabinet meeting-day, but I cannot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>We entered the President's office and found him seated in an arm chair tilted back on to its two hind legs, with his ancles crossed over each on the desk in front of him and his spectacles up on his forehead.  He was listening patiently to an army officer who sat near by with lots of documents in his hands and lots more on the corner of the desk beside him.  As we entered the President glanced at us, and Mr. Seward pointed me to a chair and told me to be seated.  He himself went and picked up a newspaper off a table, sat down on the sofa near by and began to read.</P>
113.sgm:<P>I looked round the room and listened to the officer talking to the President.  As far as I could gather from the drift of his flow of words, the man was a cavalry colonel who had been suddenly dismissed by his superior officer.  He thought this was very unjust and wanted the President to intervene and reinstate him in his post.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Presently the President seemed to wax a trifle impatient at the man's long pleading.  And he turned to that officer and said to him:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Well, Sir, I have been listening quite long enough to your complaints.  And, my dear colonel, I'll tell you what;--I think you are the most longwinded talker I ever listened to!"</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>At this the officer jumped up from his seat, gathered up all his documents with trembling fingers, hastily crammed them into his coat-pocket, and said:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Mr. President, I am much obliged to you for the compliment you have just paid me.  Goodmorning!"</P>
113.sgm:<P>"All right, Sir!"  replied the President, and the colonel dashed out through the door as if he had been a shot.</P>
113.sgm:<P>After the man had disappeared the President got up and walked towards us, and we rose from our seats.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"How do you do, Seward?"  he said, and he shook hands with that gentleman.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Mr. Seward then said:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Allow me to introduce my young friend, Mr. Heco, a Japanese gentleman."</P>
113.sgm:<P>The President stretched out a huge hand, saying he was glad to meet one coming from such a far-off place as Japan.  He shook hands with me very cordially, and then he made a great many inquiries about the position of affairs in our country.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Whilst we were talking the Secretary of the Treasury (Mr. Chase) came in, and then the Secretary of the Navy.  So I made a move to take my leave by thanking the President for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The President was tall, lean, with large hands, darkish hair streaked with grey, slight side-whiskers and clean shaved about the mouth.  He was dressed in a black frock coat.  It was said that he was a most sincere and kind person, greatly beloved by all those who came in contact with him, and more especially by his party and his friends.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">April 1st</HI>
113.sgm:.  I left New York in the <HI REND="italics">North Star</HI>
113.sgm: which was said to have been specially built for Commodore Vanderbilt, who had made a trip to Europe in her.  We arrived at Aspinwall at the usual time and crossed to Panama and got on board the <HI REND="italics">Sonora</HI>
113.sgm:<P>A few days before our arrival in San Francisco I noticed great excitement on deck.  I went to see what the matter was, when I saw a boy of about 15 years of age, led round the deck by two sailors.  A piece of white shirting with the word <HI REND="italics">Thief</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">April 26th</HI>
113.sgm:.  We arrived at San Francisco, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May 5th</HI>
113.sgm:.  In the morning papers I noticed that another batch of Japanese castaways had been picked up by the ship <HI REND="italics">Victor</HI>
113.sgm: and brought into port.  So I called on the Japanese Consul (Mr. Brooke) and accompanied him on board to see them.  They were 12 number; their junk belonged to Owari, and had been blown off the coast and had drifted about for several weeks at the mercy of the wind and the waves, until the <HI REND="italics">Victor</HI>
113.sgm: had at last sighted them.  The Consul and myself succeeded in obtaining a passage for them on the schooner <HI REND="italics">Ida</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On May 27th I left California homeward bound <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm: Honolulu and China and arrived at Hongkong on September 5th.  Here we learned that the American war was still going on.  It was said that General McLellan had attacked Richmond, but had been beaten back with a loss of 20,000 men, and that the President had called out more men, but that the Northerners had refused to support him.  Owing to these Federal reverses the general feeling among the Hongkong community was not so friendly to the Americans as it had been before.  The Queen's proclamation had just been issued declaring that neither of the belligerents should be allowed to remain in the port of Hongkong for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September 11th</HI>
113.sgm:.  I left Hongkong on the <HI REND="italics">Rona</HI>
113.sgm: for Shanghai, <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On our way up the river to Ning-po we met the Chinese Government steamer <HI REND="italics">Confucius</HI>
113.sgm: with the dead body of General Ward on board.  He was reconnoitering outside his camp, when his own guard mistook him for one of the enemy, fired upon him, and killed him.  After we came to anchor some of our passengers went ashore to see the city.  In about two hours they came back in great haste and reported that the rebels had captured the town, that the gates were closed and that they could not get in.  As they were talking, we suddenly observed a number of native boats, crowded with men, women and children, and laden with household goods rowing lustily down the stream.  We supposed that it was endeavouring to escape from the rebels.  Presently another passenger returned with the information that the gates of the place were shut, because the authorities wished to stop the efflux of the timid that had just commenced, but that notwithstanding considerable numbers had succeeded in getting away.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>On the 27th we arrived at Shanghai, and I at once secured a berth on board the <HI REND="italics">Governor Wallace</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XXIV.</HEAD>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September 30th</HI>
113.sgm:.  I was aroused by our Captain who told me that a steamer had just come in from Kanagawa with word that a rebellion had broken out in Japan and that three Englishmen had been cut down near Yokohama while out riding.  He asked me to board the steamer and to find out particulars.  When I reached her (the <HI REND="italics">Lancefield</HI>
113.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we got under weigh and arrived at Yokohama on the 13th October.  I went ashore and took up my quarters with my old friend Mr. Ed. Clarke who had prepared a place for me within his compound.  I had been absent from Yokohama for more than a year.  I came back to find both the foreign and the native communities in wild excitement over an event that had happened at Nama-mugi, a little village on the To&macr;kaido&macr;, between Kanagawa and Tsurumi.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>On inquiring I found two versions of the occurrence.  The foreign one was as follows:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>Certain visitors from China accompanied by some residents of Yokohama had gone on an excursion on horse-back to Kawasaki.  As they were riding along they met several <HI REND="italics">daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>According to the native version, four or five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:foreigners were riding towards Kawasaki, when they met a <HI REND="italics">daimio&macr;</HI>
113.sgm: train from Yedo which proved to be that of Shimadzu Saburo.  The foreign riders seemed to break the train, and the <HI REND="italics">samurai</HI>
113.sgm: called to the foreigners to get out of the way, but somehow they either would not or could not do so.  Whereupon some one shouted out "Cut down!" and at the words several <HI REND="italics">samurai</HI>
113.sgm:<P>My informant went on to say that it was a common belief among the <HI REND="italics">samurai</HI>
113.sgm:, that when the Lord's train is broken or scattered by others, as had just happened, it is a bad omen and a sure precursor of calamity to their clan.  He also said that on his way to Yedo a few months before, Shimadzu Saburo had gone to Yokohama and bought a steamer for $120,000 from a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:foreign house there.  Thus Shimadzu really entertained no bad feelings towards foreigners.  But it was said that when he had got to Yedo, he had requested the Sho&macr;gun's Government to recommand the Mikado to grant him the little of <HI REND="italics">O&macr;sumi-no-Kami</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October 15th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November 23rd</HI>
113.sgm:.  This evening the U.S. Minister and Consul and myself dined with my friend Mr. Ed. Clarke.  In the course of conversation the topic of "Exchange" cropped up.  Now inasmuch as my salary was calculated in Mexicans it was a matter of some moment for me, for the Mexican instead of being at par was going for 2 3/4, 2 1/2 and even as low as 2 1/4 instead of the nominal 3 <HI REND="italics">bu</HI>
113.sgm:.  And this did not at all affect either the Minister or the Consul, for the one got <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"Ah! but," said the Minister, "the arrangement is different in their case.  The allowance is made to the <HI REND="italics">Legations</HI>
113.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Consulates</HI>
113.sgm: and consequently it is distributed among the subordinates.  But with us Americans, the allowance is made to the <HI REND="italics">Minister</HI>
113.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Consul</HI>
113.sgm:<P>I then asked whether, if that was so, the Minister could not apply to the Government for an allowance for me.  He answered that neither he nor the Consul could do any such thing, inasmuch as the arrangement had been fixed at the outset as he had stated.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November 24th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"On the 3rd instant, His Majesty the Sho&macr;gun <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"It was now been officially notified to the Foreign Representatives that the Sho&macr;gun will repair to the city of the Mikado early next spring accompanied by the Prince-President and numerous <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:.  The journey, it is said, will be made by sea, and the following steamers and sailing vessel have already been purchased by the Government and the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Fiery Cross</HI>
113.sgm: $110,000, <HI REND="italics">Lancefield</HI>
113.sgm: $115,000, <HI REND="italics">St. Louis</HI>
113.sgm: $80,000, <HI REND="italics">Iinkee</HI>
113.sgm: $150,000, and the <HI REND="italics">Wallace</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"This was the great epoch from which the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"We have just received news to the effect that on the 12th instant the Sho&macr;gun's Government has issued the following notice to the people, viz.:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Our country has entered into treaties with several Foreign Nations, and I therefore command that all my subjects shall combine to carry out such measures for the good of the country.  At present it grieves me to see that there are in my dominions so many people dissatisfied because I have consented to admit foreigners into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>312</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"To all far-seeing men, it is clear that the time has now come when we can no longer resist the influx of Foreigners into the country, and therefore it is my wish that all the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>To <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"During your stay at the capital, you will consult about the plan to be adopted for the defence and protection of the country on the sea board, and you are fully privileged to enter my castle whenever you desire to speak of anything that concerns the national good.  Hereafter there shall be no restriction imposed on any of my subjects either high or low;--and all are at liberty to express freely their opinions about the Government matters and the country--provided however they do not tend to the subversion thereof."</P>
113.sgm:<P>After the above notice had been issued to the people and the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: by the Sho&macr;gun's Government, all the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: began to withdraw from Yedo <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:to their respective territories.  They took their families with them for the first time for two centuries.  From the firm establishment of the House of Tokugawa, the Sho&macr;guns had kept the families of the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>It is stated and generally believed that the above measure was initiated by the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January 20th, 1863</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"Gloomy and perplexing rumours are almost of daily occurrence, and the continued departure of <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"There have been occasional affrays between the retainers of rival <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"It is stated that another Ambassador from the Mikado has suddenly appeared at Yedo.  He is of even higher rank than the Sho&macr;gun, and at audience, (the report says) demanded to know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"It is a matter of common talk among the natives that the Sho&macr;gun's position is a very delicate one, for the Mikado (his superior) has peremptorily ordered or demanded of the Sho&macr;gun to expel all foreigners from the country, while on the other hand the Sho&macr;gun has no power to obey the order, or to do so.  The Government of the Sho&macr;gun is evidently doing all they can within their power to temporize and prolong the situation until the interview between the Sho&macr;gun and the Mikado comes off in March or April next at Kioto, when a good understanding must either be arrived at, or the further residence of foreigners under the Treaties of 1858 will be rendered impossible.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"In the meantime, it is needless to record that the authority of the Sho&macr;gun is already completely set at nought in the region about Osaka and Kioto by the armed adherents of several Princely houses, and the drift of their tactics may be judged from two facts which have come to the surface free from the obscurity with which public opinion is surrounded in this country, viz.:--Uncompromissing hostility to the officers of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January 25th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"At the beginning of the 17th Century, after protracted Civil wars, the founder of the House of Tokugawa became the military ruler of the Empire.  Under him there were some 260 odd <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:.  Some of these he had subdued in actual conflict, while others had made capitulations with him.  These latter were called <HI REND="italics">Tozama</HI>
113.sgm:.  Among the 260 were 18 <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: known as <HI REND="italics">Kokushu</HI>
113.sgm:, and sometimes as great <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:.  After the Tokugawas <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:these were me most powerful feudal Houses in the country.  The other <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: were known as <HI REND="italics">Fudai</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"Meanwhile the Mikado remained in virtual seclusion in Kio&macr;to.  His courtiers were called <HI REND="italics">Kuge</HI>
113.sgm:, and nominally were higher in rank than the military nobles.  But their exalted rank was nothing but a mockery, for they were without the least vestige of actual power.  The revenue of the Mikado was fixed at 100,000 <HI REND="italics">koku</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"The Sho&macr;gun with his residence in Yedo is feudal lord of 8 Provinces in the Kwanto adjoining, and is besides the owner of numerous other little patches scattered all over the face of Japan.  His revenue is estimated at between 8 and 9,000,000 <HI REND="italics">koku</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"The <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: for 6 months every year resided in their respective territories where they collected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"As to the laws in the various <HI REND="italics">Daimioates</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"The Sho&macr;gun reserved to himself the right of coining gold, silver and copper.  But the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: may upon application receive permission from the Yedo Government to issue <HI REND="italics">Koku-satsu</HI>
113.sgm: (paper currency for local circulation) within their own provinces to the extent of their annual income.  All <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"Thus in fact the Sho&macr;gun was supreme ruler of the country, but from about the time of the conclusion of Treaties with Foreign Powers several of the <HI REND="italics">Kokushiu Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: had become jealous of his power and especially of the lucrative income he now began to derive from Foreign commerce (the tariff).  Three or four of them consequently began to conspire against him.  These <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: made constant visits to Kio&macr;to where they intrigued with the Court Nobles, through them urging the Mikado to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:force the Sho&macr;gun to expel all foreigners from the country.  But these <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: all the while are quite aware that this task of expelling foreigners is an impossible one.  But should the Sho&macr;gun declare as much publicly, or confess his inability to overtake it, these <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: will at once call upon him to resign his power and restore it to the hands of the Mikado.  Then when this is done, these <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>"And day by day the Sho&macr;gun's power seemed to wane and dwindle while the Party for the Restoration of the Mikado waxed bold and strong apace."</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">March 25th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">April 6th</HI>
113.sgm:.  It is reported that the English <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute; d' Affaires</HI>
113.sgm: had sent in to the Sho&macr;gun's Government his ultimatum in connection with the Nama-mugi affair.  The Japanese Authorities were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Then it was rumoured and generally believed at the time that the Government at Yedo had sent two Ambassadors of high rank to the British Authorities to ask them for an extension of 30 days, on the ground that the Sho&macr;gun was then absent from the Capital, and that the <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute; d' Affaires</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Later on towards the end of April, it was rumoured that another Ambassador had come from Yedo asking for a further extension of time.  The British <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute;</HI>
113.sgm: was willing to grant 10 days more, but this was not satisfactory to the Ambassador and he asked for another interview with the English <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:Authorities on board the <HI REND="italics">Euryalus</HI>
113.sgm:.  An interview with the <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute; d' Affaires</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After the return of Governor Takemoto from Kio&macr;to in May we believed that the Nama-mugi affair was approaching a satisfactory settlement.  But such was not the case.  It appears that Takemoto on his way back from Kio&macr;to called on the English <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute; d' Affaires</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 11th</HI>
113.sgm:.  It appears that the Sho&macr;gun's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:Government had sent to see the British <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute; d' Affaires</HI>
113.sgm:<P>It was reported that in consequence of these arrangements an English gunboat had been dispatched <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
113.sgm: Nagasaki to Shanghai with the intelligence that the matter had been satisfactorily settled.  On the day following her departure however, the Governor of Kanagawa went and told the <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute; d' Affaires</HI>
113.sgm: that he had been ordered by the <HI REND="italics">Goro&macr;jiu</HI>
113.sgm: to inform him that they (the <HI REND="italics">Goro&macr;jiu</HI>
113.sgm: ) had received instructions from Kio&macr;to to explain the situation to him and that he accordingly had come to do so fully.  After he had ended his explanation, it was said that the <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On the next day the <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute;</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 20th</HI>
113.sgm:.  The French authorities raised <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 21st</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Meanwhile in Yedo, it is reported that the Vice-Sho&macr;gun had issued an edict ordering all females, children, old men, invalids, and valuable effects to be removed to the interior, inasmuch as the Authorities were about to expel all foreign barbarians from the country.  And in consequence of this it was reported that on the following day none remained in the Capital but male adults, mostly fighting men.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 22nd</HI>
113.sgm:.  It is reported that the Lord IiKamon no Kami has been ordered by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:Government to guard the line from Kanagawa to Kawasaki, and that during the previous night the Vice-Sho&macr;gun had instructed all the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: then in Yedo to hold themselves in instant readiness to attack the English and to defend the Capital.  However this order was not particularly well received by not a few of the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>On the other hand the native traders and residents in Yokohama were everywhere packing up their effects, closing their shops, and getting away from the place.  The former were only too glad to dispose of their wares at any price.  The whole of the native-settlement looked like a battle-ground, strewn as it was with a litter of everything in wild disorder.  Everywhere was running to and fro and confusion.  Carpenters, plasterers and labourers were clamouring and importuning foreign firms for wages, and for payment for contract-work not yet finished, some even enforcing their demands by the argument of brandished axes, spades, hoes and fire-hooks.</P>
113.sgm:<P>E. C. and I walked into the town and purchasd porcelain, paying at the rate of 5 or 7 <HI REND="italics">rio</HI>
113.sgm: for what usually fetched 25 or 30.  But notwithstanding this cheap rate, we made no profit.  For <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Although the wild commotion in the native quarters did not prevail among the foreign community, yet the Settlement was not unruffled by ripples of excitement.  In all quarters there was eager talk as to what the actual outcome of the situation would be.  Would the affair be settled amicably, or would they really come to blows?</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Governor of Kanagawa went first on board the French flagship and then to the French Legation.  This was said to be in order to consult the French Admiral and the Minister about the situation and to ask them to interpose as mediators in the matter.  They agreed to the request, provided that Governor Asano handed over the amount of the indemnity to the English at once.  And Asano forthwith took the responsibility of doing so upon his shoulders.</P>
113.sgm:<P>It is stated that at this interview the French Admiral asked the Governor whether it was true that the Mikado had ordered the Sho&macr;gun to instruct Hitotsubashi to drive foreigners from the country.  The Governor replied that it was true, but that the Minister and the Admiral must not regard this as of any significance, inasmuch as Hitotsubashi was on too friendly terms with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>At night we found that there was not a native servant, or Japanese subject within the Foreign Concession, with the single exception of Dr. S. T.'s son in my own house.  All the cooks and "boys" had stolen off one by one, after they had received a quiet hint from the native authorities to do so.  So those who had placed their sole reliance on native servants had now to cook and serve their own dinners.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Governor Asano, however, according to his promise, issued a notice to the effect that the people must not remove from the place, and must create no disturbance in the foreign settlement.  This notice had a good effect, and by sundown order again prevailed throughout all the community.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>In the course of the excitement three Americans had been assaulted by some native carpenters and labourers, because they had refused to pay for part of contract-work which had not been fully completed.  It was said that these Americans afterwards demanded damages through their Minister from the Sho&macr;gun's Government, and that they were awarded a considerable indemnity.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 23rd</HI>
113.sgm:.  It is reported that the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: of Owari and Ota Gon-no-suke had received orders from the Government of Yedo to repair to Kio&macr;to and bring back the Sho&macr;gun.  In the evening Hitotsubashi arrived at Kanagawa <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
113.sgm: to Yedo from Kio&macr;to.  He lodged at <HI REND="italics">Honjin</HI>
113.sgm: and sent for Governor Asano.  The latter went over to see him, and they had an interview lasting several hours.  It was surmised by the public that this interview was on the subject of the English claims, and sure enough, when the Governor came over to Yokohama he went immediately to the English Legation and told the <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute; d' Affaires</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>On the following day the English <HI REND="italics">Charge&acute; d' Affaires</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Immediately after this, the Japanese Minister for Foreign Affairs gave notice to all the Foreign Representatives that the Japanese Ministers at Yedo had received orders from Kio&macr;to to expel all foreigners from the country.  With this notice came a note to the following effect:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"With this communication I beg to inform you that the feeling of the people of Japan is that they do not desire to have any further intercourse with foreign people, and that consequently their wish is to expel all foreigners from the open ports and to close the same.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"The above notice has been received by me from Kio&macr;to with instructions to see you in person and to explain the matter more fully, but that before I did so, to intimate to you briefly in writing the intention of the Mikado and of the Sho&macr;gun, and to request that you will convey the above to your Government.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Signed with respect</P>
113.sgm:<P>OGASAWARA DZUSHO&macr; NO KAMI."</P>
113.sgm:<P>(Yedo, June 1863.)</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>It was said that the Foreign Representatives took not the least notice of this communication, beyond merely acknowledging its receipt.  They laughed over it and looked upon it as altogether too childish for their serious consideration.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 25th</HI>
113.sgm:.  About 500 men came from Yedo and embarked on the yacht <HI REND="italics">Emperor</HI>
113.sgm:, a vessel which had been presented by the Queen of England.  It was said that she was to convey the native Minister for Foreign Affairs to Osaka <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 26th</HI>
113.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Banriu-maru</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June 30th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 2nd</HI>
113.sgm:.  Governor Asano and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 3rd</HI>
113.sgm:.  It is reported that the Sho&macr;gun's Government have chartered two English merchant steamers, the <HI REND="italics">Elgin</HI>
113.sgm: at $12,000 and the <HI REND="italics">Rajah</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 4th</HI>
113.sgm:.  The Minister Ogasawara Dzusho&macr; no Kami arrived from Yedo <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
113.sgm: to Kio&macr;to, whither Governor Asano is to accompany him.  It is said they are to go in the steamer <HI REND="italics">Lye-e-moon</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 10th</HI>
113.sgm:.  At an interview in the Consulate between the Governor and two subordinates on one side, and the Minister and the Consul on the other, I acted as Interpreter.  On behalf of a certain religious body of which the Minister was an ardent number, the Minister urged the Governor to grant the piece of land immediately East of the Custom-House for the erection of a Church.  The Governor replied that everybody's eye was set on that plot of ground, but that he could not grant it to any one, because it was expressly reserved for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"All right; I'll see the <HI REND="italics">Goro&macr;jiu</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Then he turned the talk on to the matter of exchange.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"I understand," he began, "that you have been allowing the French and English Admiral $30 exchange <HI REND="italics">per diem</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The Governor said that the Commander was actually drawing more than his legitimate allowance, since according to the Custom House arrangements for Exchange, a Commander's allowance was fixed at $2 per day, while the American Commander was receiving $3, which was a post Captain's allowance.</P>
113.sgm:<P>To this the Minister replied that the American Commander was now the senior officer in the East, and that therefore he was Commanderin-Chief and consequently on the same footing as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"We Americans call our officers by different titles from other nations," he proceeded.  "For instance the French and English call their rulers Emperor and Queen, the Japanese call theirs Tycoon, while we term ours President.  In a similar way the English and French call their chief or senior naval officer Admiral, but on the Eastern Station here at present we call ours Commander.  Every nation has its own way of naming its officials."</P>
113.sgm:<P>At this brilliant sally the Governor smiled, and said that he would look into the matter, and rectify any error he might have unwillingly committed.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then the Minister turned to me, and said:--</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Now, Heco, please ask the Governor why he does not allow you your monthly exchange, although you hold a full commission from the President of the U.S."</P>
113.sgm:<P>I said I did not wish to bring this matter up, inasmuch as according to the Minister's own opinion openly and distinctly expressed a few months back, I had no right whatsoever to any such allowance.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Never mind that," said the Minister testily.  "Just you translate what I say."</P>
113.sgm:<P>At this point the Governor asked what we were arguing about, and I told him.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"About your exchange!" said the Governor, "Why, you have never applied for it.  You have been of the utmost service to as an interpreter also, and we should be only too happy to grant you your allowance.  Please send in your application without delay."</P>
113.sgm:<P>I translated this to the Minister, and the Consul asked me to send in my application at once.  To this I demurred.  Then the Consul drew up the document and asked me to sign it.  Then to avoid any further argument I put my name to it.  I obtained $500 as back exchange, and that was all I got during my tenure of office.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Just at this point a Custom House officer came in great haste asking to see the Governor.  He reported that two American missionaries had conveyed their furniture to the jetty and were on the point of crossing over to Kanagawa.  He wished to know if they were to be allowed to proceed.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Governor said that on no account were they to be permitted to do so in these dangerous times, and told the officer to go off and stop them at once.  The officer replied that he and his colleague had done all they could to do so, but that they had been met with the answer that the time for which the authorities had asked the missionaries to remove and stay in Yokohama had expired, and that they now wished to get back to their old residence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:at Kanagawa.  The Governor told him to go and detain them till he heard from him, and then he turned to me, and asked me to request the Consul to interpose, inasmuch as he knew several <HI REND="italics">ro&macr;nin</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 11th</HI>
113.sgm:.  The American Minister received a dispatch from Shanghai, to the effect that the steamer <HI REND="italics">Pembroke</HI>
113.sgm:<P>In the afternoon the Minister sent to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:Governor and asked him to come to the Consulate.  He complied with the request and came, and found himself confronted with the U.S. Minister, the Consul and Commander McDougal.  I acted as interpreter.  The Minister began by asking the Governor, whether he had heard about the American steamer <HI REND="italics">Pembroke</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The Governor replied that he had heard of the occurrence, and believed it to be true, and that he thought the vessel which had made the attack belonged to Cho&macr;shiu.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"By whose authority did the Cho&macr;shiu men fire on the <HI REND="italics">Pembroke</HI>
113.sgm:<P>To these interrogatories the Governor replied that Cho&macr;shiu had fired on his own responsibility, that the Sho&macr;gun's Government had had nothing to do with the matter whatsoever, but that the authorities at Yedo, being the Government of the country, were already making inquiries into the case and that they would certainly endeavour to arrest and punish the guilty party who had thus fired on a vessel belonging to a friendly nation.  But that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Then the Minister asked whether, since the Cho&macr;shiu men had acted on their own responsibility without orders from any other party, the Sho&macr;gun's Government would have any objection to his sending an American war-ship to punish Cho&macr;shiu for the outrage.</P>
113.sgm:<P>The Governor said this could not be thought of; he could not allow any foreign vessel to go and chastise Cho&macr;shiu directly, for if such a thing were permitted his own Government would be set at naught.  The Government would investigate the matter as soon as they possibly could do so, and should it be found that Cho&macr;shiu had no good cause for his action, he would certainly meet with condign punishment according to the Japanese law.  He (the Governor) therefore requested the Minister not to send any man-of-war, but to wait patiently until he heard from the Government at Yedo.</P>
113.sgm:<P>This ended the conference and the Governor took his departure.  After the Governor had gone, the Minister, the Consul and Captain McDougal held a consultation.  And the result of it was that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:the Minister thought it best to send the <HI REND="italics">Wyoming</HI>
113.sgm:<P>At eleven o'clock on the night of the 12th I received the following order from the Consul, written on a small piece of paper.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Mr. Heco, you will be on board the <HI REND="italics">Wyoming</HI>
113.sgm: at 4 o'clock <HI REND="italics">sharp</HI>
113.sgm:<P>Your truly,</P>
113.sgm:<P>(Signed.)       E. S. F--,</P>
113.sgm:<P>U.S. Consul.</P>
113.sgm:<P>July 12th, 10 o'clock p.m."</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 13th</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Wyoming</HI>
113.sgm: had steam up and was ready to get under weigh.  Captain McDougal asked me whether I had seen the Minister since the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>"Well, he must be coming, since he agreed that he would!"</P>
113.sgm:<P>At 5.30 a.m. E. S. Benson came off, saying that he had heard that the <HI REND="italics">Wyoming</HI>
113.sgm: was going down the Inland Sea <HI REND="italics">on business</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 15th</HI>
113.sgm:.  After breakfast, the Captain, the Doctor and myself were sitting in the Captain's smoking-room when the Captain asked my opinion about the "situation" and of the feeling of the people and the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm:<P>I told him that so far as I heard and knew the feelings of the <HI REND="italics">Daimio</HI>
113.sgm: towards foreign nations were divided, some being favourably disposed towards them, others being neutral, and some hostile.  Those who were either actually or feignedly hostile <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>He then asked me whether I thought the Cho&macr;shiu men would fire on an American man-of-war.  I said that a merchant man or a man-of-war would make no difference to them.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Then do you think we ought to prepare for an attack?" asked the Captain.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"Yes, decidedly so."  I answered.  "It is highly advisible to make all the preparations and to take all the precautions necessary in a case of emergency."</P>
113.sgm:<P>After this conversation the Captain ordered his officers and men to prepare for action.  The guns were shotted, and muskets and revolvers loaded and made ready for immediate use.  At 3 p.m. we entered the Bungo Channel and passed the island of Takanaba.  At 5 p.m. we came to anchor at Himeshima in the Suwo&macr; Nada close to the Bungo side.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 16th</HI>
113.sgm:.  The weather was clear with not a cloud to be seen in the whole sky.  About 5 a.m. we weighed anchor and steamed slowly onward in search of the vessel that had fired on the <HI REND="italics">Pembroke</HI>
113.sgm:.  We zig-zagged from one side of the Suwo&macr; Nada to the other hoping to meet her, but without success.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>By nine o'clock the sun in a cloudless sky had waxed scorching.  There was not a breath of wind, the sea smooth as a tank of oil with not a ripple on its surface save that made by our own motion as we churned onwards.  The deck was strewn with fire-arms and cutlasses ready for use at a moment's notice.  About this time the Captain ordered the men to haul in the big guns and to cover up the ports with tarpaulin, so as to make us look like a merchant-man.  About 10 p.m. we were within a few miles of the Eastern entrance of the Straits of Shimonoseki.  The Lieutenant in the fore castle called out that he sighted two square-rigged vessels and a steamer at anchor close in to the town.</P>
113.sgm:<P>"All right, Sir," said the Captain.  "We will steer right in between them and take the steamer."</P>
113.sgm:<P>When we heard this, every body on board, I noticed, became excited and some of the men became quite pale.  For it was no easy matter to take an enemy's vessel without a hand-to-hand fight, and many of the crew I was told had never been under fire.</P>
113.sgm:<P>While Dr. Dambey, Mr. Benson and I were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>At the first fire Captain McDougal ordered the quartermaster to hoist the American flag at the peak, so that those on shore might be in no doubt as to who we were.  But the people on shore paid but scant respect to our colours; their fire only grew hotter.  So the Captain gave the order " <HI REND="italics">Make ready for action</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>The big 64 pounder guns were at once run out, and opened upon the batteries on shore.  At precisely 10.50 a.m. we ran right in between the three Cho&macr;shiu vessels, and treated them to a salute from our two Dahlgren guns.  After delivering our broadside we steamed slowly out and crossing the bow of the steamer <HI REND="italics">Lancefield</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The steamer seemed to have some dignitaries on board, as we saw that she had purple awnings with the Prince's crest.  As soon as we crossed the <HI REND="italics">Lancefield's</HI>
113.sgm: bows she slipped her cable and essayed to run for refuge into the inner harbour.  At this instant the Captain called out to the gunner at the 11 inch Dahlgren to fire.  But the gunner seemed to pay no attention until the Captain had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:given the order for the third or fourth time.  At last he did as he was told, and "Bang" went the gun with an ear-splitting crash.  And as the smoke of the discharge drifted aside we saw a great volume of smoke and steam hissing and pouring from the <HI REND="italics">Lancefield's</HI>
113.sgm:<P>The reason why the Captain of the gun did not let loose at the first word of command was that he was taking aim at the exact water-line.  And when he did fire he hit the spot to a hair's-breadth.  He finished the vessel by that single well-directed shot.  It tore through one side of the hull, ripped through the boilers, out at the other side, and drove ashore and lodged there without ever bursting.  This I learned from the Cho&macr;shiu officers afterwards.</P>
113.sgm:<P>When we got out into the channel, we touched <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>Thus we fought 6 batteries, a barque, a brig and a steamer.  We silenced all the batteries, and as for the brig and the steamer we sank them.  And all this was done in a little more than one short hour.  We ceased firing at 20 m. after 12 p.m.</P>
113.sgm:<P>From our observation it appeared that all the guns were trained on the channel, and placed so as to rake the course usually taken by foreign vessels in passing the Straits.  Had it not been for the Captain's clever man&oelig;uvre of running right close inshore under their batteries, every shot they fired would have hulled us.  But as it was they all screeched harmlessly over us.  The only punishment we received we got from the vessels.</P>
113.sgm:<P>During the engagement we fired 53 shot and shell in all, with the result I have above mentioned.  The Cho&macr;shiu men discharged 130 rounds in all, of which 22 did us actual damage.  These hit our rigging, smoke-stack and hull, and killed 5 and wounded 7 of our men.</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>After we were fairly out of danger, the crew went to dinner, and the vessel steamed slowly back to Himeshima where we had spent the previous night.  Here our Captain meant to bury our dead on shore.  Accordingly all due prepartions were made, and boats were lowered and I was requested to accompany the officer in charge to interpret.  But just then we observed a dense and dark crowd of natives mustering on the beach, and the Captain deemed it best not to take the dead ashore, inasmuch as this muster of the natives might portend a collision with the funeral party.  Wherefore he countermanded the order.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Then he ordered the officers to lower a boat and examine the hull of the vessel.  They dug out one whole shot from under the bulwark, and the fragment of one from under the bowsprit and several others fragments from other places.</P>
113.sgm:<P>About 5 h. 30 p.m. the fine weather suddenly gave place to a downpour of rain, and it continued to lash us unsparingly until 3 o'clock next morning.  All had retired except the watch when about 9 h. 30 m. p.m. the quarter-master reported to the Captain that he had heard a signal gun in the distance and that several lights appeared ahead approaching us.  This occasioned a good deal of alarm in the wild and rainy night.  We beat to quarters and all stood ready for an emergency.  But it turned out to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 17th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 18th</HI>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 20th</HI>
113.sgm:.  Overnight we came to anchor in Yokohama harbour   Next morning the shore people crowded on board to hear the news.  From them we also learned that the Dutch man-of-war <HI REND="italics">Medusa</HI>
113.sgm: from Nagasaki had come through the Straits and had met with a hard time of it off Shimonoseki.  The Cho&macr;shiu men had shelled her, killing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:four of her people and wounding sixteen more.  Also that the French despatch boat the <HI REND="italics">Kien-chang</HI>
113.sgm:, from Yokohama to Shanghai, had been fired on in the Straits and had been well-nigh disabled.  She had run out the same way as the <HI REND="italics">Pembroke</HI>
113.sgm:<P>After breakfast I bade adieu to Capt. McDougal and went ashore and reported myself to the Consul.  I asked him why the Minister had not come, saying that Capt. McDougal had waited for him for two hours.  The Consul replied with a smile that the Minister had had a severe attack of diarrh&oelig;a overnight.</P>
113.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July 24th</HI>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<illus entity="a113-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Straits of Shimonoseki</HI>
113.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>ERRATA.</P>
113.sgm:<P>Page.  Line.</P>
113.sgm:<P>3--7.  For "daring" read "faring."</P>
113.sgm:<P>12--25.  For "Strait Ondo" read "Straits of Ondo."</P>
113.sgm:<P>15--3.  Insert "the" before "Province."</P>
113.sgm:<P>18--15.  For "80" read "160;" and for "200" read "400."</P>
113.sgm:<P>26--  For " <HI REND="italics">Eiriki-maru</HI>
113.sgm: " read " <HI REND="italics">Eriki-maru</HI>
113.sgm:<P>28--Last line.  After "temple" insert "Kwannon" and omit the next sentence.</P>
113.sgm:<P>40--22.  For "clean" read "clear."</P>
113.sgm:<P>48--11.  Read "mackerel, <HI REND="italics">sawara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>113--5.  Insert "The" before " <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:<P>139--13.  For "9 p.m." read "6 p.m."</P>
113.sgm:<P>154--8.  For "give" read "gave."</P>
113.sgm:<P>165--6.  Omit "St. John."</P>
113.sgm:<P>176--12.  For "Mani" read "Maui."</P>
113.sgm:<P>176--22.  Hawaiian.</P>
113.sgm:<P>184--26.  For "22nd" read "6th."</P>
113.sgm:<P>191--9.  For "Dow" read "Dorr."</P>
113.sgm:<P>192--1.  Cum-sing-mu&circ;n.</P>
113.sgm:<P>200--25.  For "full dress" read "the usual official dress."</P>
113.sgm:<P>206--2.  For "any" read "an."</P>
113.sgm:<P>216--17.  For "in" read "on."</P>
113.sgm:<P>217--9.  For "Jardine and Matheson" read "Jardine, Matheson &amp; Co."</P>
113.sgm:<P>224--8.  After "indicated" insert "thus (I)."</P>
113.sgm:<P>237--25.  For "Kanriu" read "Kanrin."</P>
113.sgm:<P>277--14.  For "HOWIS" read "HARRIS."</P>
113.sgm:<P>282--8.  For "Summer" read "Semmes."</P>
113.sgm:<P>289--3.  Before "be" insert "to."</P>
113.sgm:<P>289--18.  For "Weller" read "Welles."</P>
113.sgm:<P>297--7.  Insert "F." before "Seward."</P>
113.sgm:<P>303--6.  For "Brooke" read "Brooks."</P>
113.sgm:<P>303--8.  Insert "in" before "number."</P>
113.sgm:<P>310--4.  <HI REND="italics">Delete</HI>
113.sgm:<P>315--9.  For "S--" read "P--."</P>
113.sgm:<P>315--28.  For "great" read "guest."</P>
113.sgm:<P>316--1.  For "me" read "the."</P>
113.sgm:<P>325--28.  After "sundown" insert "of the following day."</P>
113.sgm:<P>336--18.  For "E. S. F--" read "G. S. F--."</P>
113.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
113.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
113.sgm:<P>12--25:  Straits of Ondo.</P>
113.sgm:<P>18--15:  For "80" read "160" and for "200" read "400"</P>
113.sgm:<P>28--last line.  Omit sentence at bottom and at top of p. 30.</P>
113.sgm:<P>48--11:  <HI REND="italics">Read</HI>
113.sgm: mackerel, <HI REND="italics">sawara</HI>
113.sgm:<P>113--5:  The <HI REND="italics">St. Mary</HI>
113.sgm:<P>154--8:  Gave.</P>
113.sgm:<P>176--12:  Maui.</P>
113.sgm:<P>176--22:  Hawaiian.</P>
113.sgm:<P>184--24:  <HI REND="italics">For</HI>
113.sgm: 12th <HI REND="italics">read</HI>
113.sgm:<P>191--9:  <HI REND="italics">For</HI>
113.sgm: Dow <HI REND="italics">read</HI>
113.sgm:<P>192  Cum-sing-mu&circ;n.</P>
113.sgm:<P>200  <HI REND="italics">For</HI>
113.sgm:<P>216--17:  <HI REND="italics">For</HI>
113.sgm: in <HI REND="italics">read</HI>
113.sgm:<P>237--25:  For " <HI REND="italics">Kanriu</HI>
113.sgm: " read " <HI REND="italics">Kanrin</HI>
113.sgm:<P>277--14:  For "Howis" read "HARRIS."</P>
113.sgm:<P>282--8:  <HI REND="italics">For</HI>
113.sgm: "Summer" <HI REND="italics">read</HI>
113.sgm:<P>315--28:  <HI REND="italics">For</HI>
113.sgm: "great" <HI REND="italics">read</HI>
114.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-114</TITLE>
114.sgm:<TITLE>Personal reminiscences of early days in California, with other sketches.By Stephen J. Field. Printed for a few friends. Not published: a machine-readabletranscription.</TITLE>
114.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
114.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
114.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
114.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
114.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-1061</LCCN>
114.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
114.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>4117</COPYRIGHT>
114.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:<P>PERSONAL REMINISCENCES</p><P>OF</p><P>EARLY DAYS IN CALIFORNIA</p><P>WITH</p><P>OTHER SKETCHES.</p><P>BY</p><P>STEPHEN J. FIELD.</p><P>PRINTED FOR A FEW FRIENDS.</p><P>NOT PUBLISHED.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:<P>Copyright, 1880, by S. J. Field.</p></DIV>
114.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE.<LB>Why and how I came to California<HSEP>7<LB>First experiences in San Francisco.--Visit to Marysville, and elected First Alcalde of that District<HSEP>12<LB>Experiences as Alcalde<HSEP>29<LB>The Turner Controversy<HSEP> 41<LB>Running for the Legislature<HSEP> 56<LB>The Turner Controversy continued<HSEP>66<LB>Life in the Legislature<HSEP>73<LB>Friendship for David C. Broderick<HSEP>82<LB>Legislation secured and beginning a new life<HSEP>85<LB>The Barbour Difficulty<HSEP>100<LB>Removal from Marysville.--Life on the Supreme Bench.--End of Judge Turner<HSEP>115<LB>Career on the Supreme Bench of California, as described by Judge Baldwin<HSEP>126<LB>THE ANNOYANCES OF MY JUDICIAL LIFE.<LB>Rosy views of judicial life gradually vanishing.--Unsettled land titles of the State.--Asserted ownership by the State of gold and silver found in the soil.--Present of a Torpedo<HSEP>137<LB>Hostility to the Supreme Court after the Civil War.--The Scofield Resolution<HSEP>172<LB>The Moulin Vexation<HSEP>200<LB>The Hastings Malignity<HSEP>207<LB>APPENDIX.<LB>Ex. A.--Notice of departure from New York for California, November 13, 1849<HSEP>221</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:<P>Ex. B.--Aid at election of Alcalde by Wm. H. Parks.--A sketch of my opponent<HSEP>221<LB>Ex. C.--Oath of office as Alcalde<HSEP>223<LB>Ex. D.--Order of District Court imprisoning and fining me for alleged contempt of court; also, Order expelling Messrs. Goodwin and Mulford and myself from the Bar; and Order imprisoning and fining Judge Haun for releasing me from imprisonment upon a writ of habeas corpus, and directing that the order to imprison me be enforced<HSEP>224<LB>Ex. E.--Record of Proceedings in the Court of Sessions, when attempt was made to arrest its presiding Judge; and the testimony of the Clerk of the District Court in reference to its proceedings relating to myself and Judge Haun<HSEP>225<LB>Ex. F.--Petition of Citizens of Marysville to the Governor to suspend Judge Turner from office<HSEP>229<LB>Ex. G.--Letters of Ira A. Eaton and A. M. Winn<HSEP>232<LB>Ex. H, No. I.--Letters from Surviving Members of the Legislature of 1851, who voted to indefinitely postpone the proceedings for the impeachment of Judge Turner<HSEP>233<LB>Ex. H, No. II.--Letter of Judge Mott on the difficulty with Judge Barbour<HSEP>237<LB>Ex. I.--Letter of L. Martin, the friend of Judge Barbour in his street attack<HSEP>240<LB>Ex. J.--Sections 4, 5, and 7 of the Act of July 1, 1864, to expedite the settlement of titles to lands in California; and the Act of March 8, 1866, to quiet the title to certain lands in San Francisco<HSEP>241<LB>Ex. K.--Letter of Judge Lake giving an account of the Torpedo<HSEP>243<LB>Ex. L.--Extract from the Report of the Register and Receiver of the Land-Office in the matter of the contests for lands on the Soscol Ranch<HSEP>245</p></DIV>
114.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:<DIV><P>THE following sketches were taken down by a stenographer in the summer of 1877, at San Francisco, from the narrative of Judge Field.  They are printed at the request of a few friends, to whom they have an interest which they could not excite in others.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<HEAD>WHY AND HOW I CAME TO CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>SOME months previous to the Mexican War, my brother David Dudley Field, of New York City, wrote two articles for the Democratic Review upon the subject of the Northwestern Boundary between the territory of the United States and the British Possessions.  One of these appeared in the June, and the other in the November number of the Review for 1845.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: While writing these articles he had occasion to examine several works on Oregon and California, and, among others, that of Greenhow, then recently published, and thus became familiar with the geography and political history of the Pacific Coast.  The next Spring, and soon after the war broke out, in the course of a conversation upon its probable results, he remarked, that if he were a young man, he would go to San Francisco; that he was satisfied peace would never be concluded without our acquiring the harbor upon which it was situated; that there was no other good harbor on the coast, and that, in his opinion, that town would, at no distant day, become a great city.  He also remarked that if I would go he would furnish the means, not only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:for the journey, but also for the purchase of land at San Francisco and in its vicinity.  This conversation was the first germ of my project of coming to California.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">The first article was entitled "The Oregon Question," and the second "The Edinburgh and Foreign Quarterly on the Oregon Question."</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>Some months afterwards, and while Col. Stevenson's regiment was preparing to start from New York for California, my brother again referred to the same subject and suggested the idea of my going out with the regiment.  We had at that time a clerk in the office by the name of Sluyter, for whom I had great regard.  With him I talked the matter over, it being my intention, if I should go at all, to induce him if possible to accompany me.  But he wished to get married, and I wished to go to Europe.  The result of our conference was, that the California project was deferred, with the understanding, however, that after my return from Europe we should give it further consideration.  But the idea of going to California thus suggested, made a powerful impression upon my mind.  It pleased me.  There was a smack of adventure in it.  The going to a country comparatively unknown and taking a part in fashioning its institutions, was an attractive subject of contemplation.  I had always thought that the most desirable fame a man could acquire was that of being the founder of a State, or of exerting a powerful influence for good upon its destinies; and the more I thought of the new territory about to fall into our hands beyond the Sierra Nevada, the more I was fascinated with the idea of settling there and growing up with it.</p><P>But I was anxious first to visit, or rather to revisit, Europe.  I was not able, however, to make the necessary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:arrangements to do so until the Summer of 1848.  On the first of May of that year, I dissolved partnership with my brother, and in June started for Europe.  In the following December, while at Galignani's News Room in Paris, I read in the New York Herald the message of President Polk, which confirmed previous reports, that gold had been discovered in California, then recently acquired.  It is difficult to describe the effect which that message produced upon my mind.  I read and re-read it, and the suggestion of my brother to go to that country recurred to me, and I felt some regret that I had not followed it.  I remained in Europe, however, and carried out my original plan of seeing its most interesting cities, and returned to the United States in 1849, arriving at New York on the 1st of October of that year.</p><P>There was already at that early period a steamer leaving that city once or twice every month for Chagres.  It went crowded every trip.  The impulse which had been started in me by my brother in 1846, strengthened by the message of President Polk, had now become irresistible.  I joined the throng, and on November 13th, 1849, took passage on the "Crescent City;" and in about a week's time, in company with many others, I found myself at the little old Spanish-American town of Chagres, on the Isthmus of Panama.  There we took small boats and were poled up the river by Indians to Cruces, at which place we mounted mules and rode over the mountain to Panama.  There I found a crowd of persons in every degree of excitement, waiting for passage to California.  There were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:thousands of them.  Those who came on the "Crescent City" had engaged passage on the Pacific side also; but such was the demand among the multitude at Panama for the means of transportation, that some of the steerage passengers sold their tickets from that place to San Francisco for $750 apiece and took their chances of getting on cheaper.  These sales, notwithstanding they appeared at the time to be great bargains, proved, in most cases, to be very unfortunate transactions; for the poor fellows who thus sold their tickets, besides losing their time, exposed themselves to the malaria of an unhealthy coast.  There was in fact a good deal of sickness already among those on the Isthmus, and many deaths afterwards occurred; and among those who survived there was much suffering before they could get away.</p><P>The vessel that conveyed us, and by "us" I mean the passengers of the "Crescent City," and as many others as could by any possibility procure passage from Panama to San Francisco, was the old steamer "California."  She was about one thousand tons burden; but probably no ship of two thousand ever carried a greater number of passengers on a long voyage.  When we came to get under way, there did not seem to be any spare space from stem to stern.  There were over twelve hundred persons on board, as I was informed.<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
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114.sgm:many of them carried with them the seeds of disease.  The infection contracted under a tropical sun, being aggravated by hardships, insufficient food, and the crowded condition of the steamer, developed as the voyage proceeded.  Panama fever in its worst form broke out; and it was not long before the main deck was literally covered with the sick.  There was a physician attached to the ship; but unfortunately he was also prostrated.  The condition of things was very sad and painful.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">NOTE.--The number of passengers reported to the journals of San Francisco on the arrival of the steamer was much less than this, probably to avoid drawing attention to the violation of the statute which restricted the number.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>Among the passengers taken sick were two by the name of Gregory Yale and Stephen Smith; and I turned myself into a nurse and took care of them.  Mr. Yale, a gentleman of high attainments, and who afterwards occupied a prominent place at the bar of the state, was for a portion of the time dangerously ill, and I believe that but for my attentions he would have died.  He himself was of this opinion, and afterwards expressed his appreciation of my attention in every way he could.  In the many years I knew him he never failed to do me a kindness whenever an opportunity presented.  Finally, on the evening of December 28, 1849, after a passage of twenty-two days from Panama, we reached San Francisco, and landed between eight and nine o'clock that night.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FIRST EXPERIENCES IN SAN FRANCISCO.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>UPON landing from the steamer, my baggage consisted of two trunks, and I had only the sum of ten dollars in my pocket.  I might, perhaps, have carried one trunk, but I could not manage two; so I was compelled to pay out seven of my ten dollars to have them taken to a room in an old adobe building on the west side of what is now known as Portsmouth Square.  This room was about ten feet long by eight feet wide, and had a bed in it.  For its occupation, the sum of $35 a week was charged.  Two of my fellow-passengers and myself engaged it.  They took the bed, and I took the floor.  I do not think they had much the advantage on the score of comfort.</p><P>The next morning I started out early with three dollars in my pocket.  I hunted up a restaurant and ordered the cheapest breakfast I could get.  It cost me two dollars.  A solitary dollar was, therefore, all the money in the world I had left, but I was in no respect despondent over my financial condition.  It was a beautiful day, much like an Indian summer day in the East, but finer.  There was something exhilarating and exciting in the atmosphere which made everybody cheerful and buoyant.  As I walked along the streets, I met a great many persons I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:had known in New York, and they all seemed to be in the highest spirits.  Every one in greeting me, said "It is a glorious country," or "Isn't it a glorious country?" or "Did you ever see a more glorious country?" or something to that effect.  In every case the word "glorious" was sure to come out.  There was something infectious in the use of the word, or rather in the feeling, which made its use natural.  I had not been out many hours that morning before I caught the infection; and though I had but a single dollar in my pocket and no business whatever, and did not know where I was to get the next meal, I found myself saying to everybody I met, "It is a glorious country."</p><P>The city presented an appearance which, to me, who had witnessed some curious scenes in the course of my travels, was singularly strange and wild.  The Bay then washed what is now the east side of Montgomery street, between Jackson and Sacramento streets; and the sides of the hills sloping back from the water were covered with buildings of various kinds, some just begun, a few completed,--all, however, of the rudest sort, the greater number being merely canvas sheds.  The locality then called Happy Valley, where Mission and Howard streets now are, between Market and Folsom streets, was occupied in a similar way.  The streets were filled with people, it seemed to me, from every nation under Heaven, all wearing their peculiar costumes.  The majority of them were from the States; and each State had furnished specimens of every type within its borders.  Every country of Europe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:had its representatives; and wanderers without a country were there in great numbers.  There were also Chilians, Sonorians, Kanakas from the Sandwich Islands, and Chinese from Canton and Hong Kong.  All seemed, in hurrying to and fro, to be busily occupied and in a state of pleasurable excitement.  Everything needed for their wants; food, clothing, and lodging-quarters, and everything required for transportation and mining, were in urgent demand and obtained extravagant prices.  Yet no one seemed to complain of the charges made.  There was an apparent disdain of all attempts to cheapen articles and reduce prices.  News from the East was eagerly sought from all new comers.  Newspapers from New York were sold at a dollar apiece.  I had a bundle of them, and seeing the price paid for such papers, I gave them to a fellow-passenger, telling him he might have half he could get for them.  There were sixty-four numbers, if I recollect aright, and the third day after our arrival, to my astonishment he handed me thirty-two dollars, stating that he had sold them all at a dollar apiece.  Nearly everything else brought a similarly extravagant price.  And this reminds me of an experience of my own with some chamois skins.  Before I left New York, I purchased a lot of stationery and the usual accompaniments of a writing-table, as I intended to practise my profession in California.  The stationer, learning from some remark made by my brother Cyrus, who was with me at the time, that I intended to go to California, said that I ought to buy some chamois skins in which to wrap the stationery, as they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:would be needed there to make bags for carrying golddust.  Upon this suggestion, I bought a dozen skins for ten dollars.  On unpacking my trunk, in Marysville, these chamois skins were of course exposed, and a gentleman calling at the tent, which I then occupied, asked me what I would take for them.  I answered by inquiring what he would give for them.  He replied at once, an ounce apiece.  My astonishment nearly choked me, for an ounce was taken for sixteen dollars; at the mint, it often yielded eighteen or nineteen dollars in coin.  I, of course, let the skins go, and blessed the hunter who brought the chamois down.  The purchaser made bags of the skins, and the profit to him from their sale amounted to two ounces on each skin.  From this transaction, the story arose that I had sold porte-monnaies in Marysville before practising law, which is reported in the interesting book of Messrs.  Barry and Patten, entitled "Men and Memories of San Francisco in the Spring of 1850."  The story has no other foundation.</p><P>But I am digressing from the narrative of my first experience in San Francisco.  After taking my breakfast, as already stated, the first thing I noticed was a small building in the Plaza, near which a crowd was gathered.  Upon inquiry, I was told it was the court-house.  I at once started for the building, and on entering it, found that Judge Almond, of the San Francisco District, was holding what was known as the Court of First Instance, and that a case was on trial.  To my astonishment I saw two of my fellow-passengers, who had landed the night before, sitting on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:jury.  This seemed so strange that I waited till the case was over, and then inquired how it happened they were there.  They said that they had been attracted to the building by the crowd, just as I had been, and that while looking on the proceedings of the court the sheriff had summoned them.  They replied to the summons, that they had only just arrived in the country.  But he said that fact made no difference; nobody had been in the country three months.  They added that they had received eight dollars each for their services.  At this piece of news I thought of my solitary dollar, and wondered if similar good fortune might not happen to me.  So I lingered in the court-room, placing myself near the sheriff in the hope that on another jury he might summon me.  But it was not my good luck.  So I left the temple of justice, and strolled around the busy city, enjoying myself with the novelty of everything.  Passing down Clay street, and near Kearney street, my attention was attracted by a sign in large letters, "Jonathan D. Stevenson, Gold Dust Bought and Sold Here."  As I saw this inscription I exclaimed, "Hallo, here is good luck," for I suddenly recollected that when I left New York my brother Dudley had handed me a note against Stevenson for $350 or $400; stating that he understood the Colonel had become rich in California, and telling me, that if such were the case, to ask him to pay the note.  I had put the paper in my pocket-book and thought no more of it until the sight of the sign brought it to my recollection, and also reminded me of my solitary dollar.  Of course I immediately entered the office to see the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:Colonel.  He had known me very well in New York, and was apparently delighted to see me, for he gave me a most cordial greeting.  After some inquires about friends in New York, he commenced talking about the country.  "Ah," he continued, "it is a glorious country.  I have made two hundred thousand dollars."  This was more than I could stand.  I had already given him a long shake of the hand but I could not resist the impulse to shake his hand again, thinking all the time of my financial condition.  So I seized his hand again and shook it vigorously, assuring him that I was delighted to hear of his good luck.  We talked over the matter, and in my enthusiasm I shook his hand a third time, expressing my satisfaction at his good fortune.  We passed a long time together, he dilating all the while upon the fine country it was in which to make money.  At length I pulled out the note and presented it to him.  I shall never forget the sudden change, from wreaths of smiles to an elongation of physiognomy, expressive of mingled surprise and disgust, which came over his features on seeing that note.  He took it in his hands and examined it carefully; he turned it over and looked at its back, and then at its face again, and then, as it were, at both sides at once.  At last he said in a sharp tone, "That's my signature," and began to calculate the interest; that ascertained, he paid me the full amount due.  If I remember rightly he paid me $440 in Spanish doubloons, but some of it may have been in gold dust.  If it had not been for this lucky incident, I should have been penniless before night.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>The good fortune which the Colonel then enjoyed has not always attended him since.  The greater part of his property he lost some years afterwards, but he has always retained, and now in his seventy-eighth year still retains, great energy and vigor of mind, and a manly independence of character, which have made him warm friends.  In all the changes of my life his name is pleasantly associated with the payment of the note, and the timely assistance which he thus gave me.  His career as commander of the well-known regiment of New York volunteers which arrived in California in March, 1847, and subsequently in the State, are matters of public history.</p><P>As soon as I found myself in funds I hired a room as an office at the corner of Montgomery and Clay streets for one month for $300, payable in advance.  It was a small room, about fifteen feet by twenty.  I then put out my shingle as attorney and counsellor-at-law, and waited for clients; but none came.  One day a fellow-passenger requested me to draw a deed, for which I charged him an ounce.  He thought that too much, so I compromised and took half an ounce.  For two weeks this was the only call I had upon my professional abilities.  But I was in no way discouraged.  To tell the truth I was hardly fit for business.  I was too much excited by the stirring life around me.  There was so much to hear and see that I spent half my time in the streets and saloons talking with people from the mines, in which I was greatly interested.  I felt sure that there would soon be occasion in that quarter for my services.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>Whilst I was excited over the news which was daily brought from the mines in the interior of the State, and particularly from the northern part, an incident occurred which determined my future career in California.  I had brought from New York several letters of introduction to persons who had preceded me to the new country, and among them one to the mercantile firm of Simmons, Hutchinson &amp; Co., of San Francisco, upon whom I called.  They received me cordially, and inquired particularly of my intentions as to residence and business.  They stated that there was a town at the head of river navigation, at the junction of Sacramento and Feather Rivers, which offered inducements to a young lawyer.  They called it Vernon, and said they owned some lots in it which they would sell to me.  I replied that I had no money.  That made no difference, they said; they would let me have them on credit; they desired to build up the town and would let the lots go cheap to encourage its settlement.  They added that they owned the steamer "McKim," going the next day to Sacramento, and they offered me a ticket in her for that place, which they represented to be not far from Vernon.  Accordingly I took the ticket, and on January 12th, 1850, left for Sacramento, where I arrived the next morning.  It was the time of the great flood of that year, and the entire upper country seemed to be under water.  Upon reaching the landing place at Sacramento, we took a small boat and rowed to the hotel.  There I found a great crowd of earnest and enthusiastic people, all talking about California, and in the highest spirits.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:fact I did not meet with any one who did not speak in glowing terms of the country and anticipate a sudden acquisition of fortune.  I had already caught the infection myself, and these new crowds and their enthusiasm increased my excitement.  The exuberance of my spirits was marvelous.  The next day I took the little steamer "Lawrence," for Vernon, which was so heavily laden as to be only eighteen inches out of water; and the passengers, who amounted to a large number, were requested not to move about the deck, but to keep as quiet as possible.  In three or four hours after leaving Sacramento, the Captain suddenly cried out with great energy, "Stop her! stop her!"; and with some difficulty the boat escaped running into what seemed to be a solitary house standing in a vast lake of water.  I asked what place that was, and was answered, "Vernon,"--the town where I had been advised to settle as affording a good opening for a young lawyer.  I turned to the Captain and said, I believed I would not put out my shingle at Vernon just yet, but would go further on.  The next place we stopped at was Nicolaus, and the following day we arrived at a place called Nye's Ranch, near the junction of Feather and Yuba Rivers.</p><P>No sooner had the vessel struck the landing at Nye's Ranch than all the passengers, some forty or fifty in number, as if moved by a common impulse, started for an old adobe building, which stood upon the bank of the river, and near which were numerous tents.  Judging by the number of the tents, there must have been from five hundred to a thousand people there.  When we reached the adobe and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:entered the principal room, we saw a map spread out upon the counter, containing the plan of a town, which was called "Yubaville," and a man standing behind it, crying out, "Gentlemen, put your names down; put your names down, all you that want lots."  He seemed to address himself to me, and I asked the price of the lots.  He answered, "Two hundred and fifty dollars each for lots 80 by 160 feet."  I replied, "But, suppose a man puts his name down and afterwards don't want the lots?"  He rejoined, "Oh, you need not take them if you don't want them: put your names down, gentlemen, you that want lots."  I took him at his word and wrote my name down for sixty-five lots, aggregating in all $16,250.  This produced a great sensation.  To the best of my recollection I had only about twenty dollars left of what Col. Stevenson had paid me; but it was immediately noised about that a great capitalist had come up from San Francisco to invest in lots in the rising town.  The consequence was that the proprietors of the place waited upon me and showed me great attention.</p><P>Two of the proprietors were French gentlemen, named Covillaud and Sicard.  They were delighted when they found I could speak French and insisted on showing me the town site.  It was a beautiful spot, covered with live-oak trees that reminded me of the oak parks in England, and the neighborhood was lovely.  I saw at once that the place, from its position at the head of practical river navigation, was destined to become an important depot for the neighboring mines, and that its beauty and salubrity would render it a pleasant place for residence.  In return for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:civilities shown me by Mr. Covilland, and learning that he read English, I handed him some New York papers I had with me, and among them a copy of the New York "Evening Post" of November 13th, 1849, which happened to contain a notice of my departure for California with an expression of good wishes for my success.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: The next day Mr. Covillaud came to me and in an excited manner said: "Ah, Monsieur, are you the Monsieur Field, the lawyer from New York, mentioned in this paper?"  I took the paper and looked at the notice with apparent surprise that it was marked, though I had myself drawn a pencil line around it, and replied, meekly and modestly, that I believed I was.  "Well, then," he said, "we must have a deed drawn for our land."  Upon making inquiries I found that the proprietors had purchased the tract upon which the town was laid out, and several leagues of land adjoining, of General--then Captain--John A. Sutter, but had not yet received a conveyance of the property.  I answered that I would draw the necessary deed; and they immediately dispatched a couple of vaqueros for Captain Sutter, who lived at Hock Farm, six miles below, on Feather River.  When he arrived the deed was ready for signature.  It was for some leagues of land; a considerably larger tract than I had ever before put into a conveyance.  But when it was signed there was no officer to take the acknowledgment of the grantor, nor an office in which it could be recorded, nearer than Sacramento.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">See Exhibit A, in Appendix.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>I suggested to those present on the occasion, that in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:place of such fine prospects, and where there was likely in a short time to be much business and many transactions in real property, there ought to be an officer to take acknowledgments and record deeds, and a magistrate for the preservation of order and the settlement of disputes.  It happened that a new house, the frame of which was brought in the steamer, was put up that day; and it was suggested by Mr. Covillaud that we should meet there that evening and celebrate the execution of the deed, and take into consideration the subject of organizing a town by the election of magistrates.  When evening came the house was filled.  It is true it had no floor, but the sides were boarded up and a roof was overhead, and we improvised seats out of spare planks.  The proprietors sent around to the tents for something to give cheer to the meeting, and, strange as it may seem, they found two baskets of champagne.  These they secured, and their contents were joyously disposed of.  When the wine passed around, I was called upon and made a speech.  I started out by predicting in glowing colors the prosperity of the new town, and spoke of its advantageous situation on the Feather and Yuba Rivers; how it was the most accessible point for vessels coming up from the cities of San Francisco and Sacramento, and must in time become the depot for all the trade with the northern mines.  I pronounced the auriferous region lying east of the Feather River and north of the Yuba the finest and richest in the country; and I felt certain that its commerce must concentrate at the junction of those rivers.  But, said I, to avail ourselves of all these advantages we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:must organize and establish a government, and the first thing to be done is to call an election and choose magistrates and a town council.  These remarks met with general favor, and it was resolved that a public meeting should be held in front of the Adobe house the next morning, and if it approved of the project, that an election should be held at once.</p><P>Accordingly, on the following morning, which was the 18th of January, 1850, a public meeting of citizens was there held, and it was resolved that a town government should be established and that there should be elected an Ayuntamiento or town council, a first and second Alcalde, (the latter to act in the absence or sickness of the former,) and a Marshal.  The Alcalde was a judicial officer under the Spanish and Mexican laws, having a jurisdiction something like that of a Justice of the Peace; but in the anomalous condition of affairs in California at that time, he, as a matter of necessity, assumed and exercised very great powers.  The election ordered took place in the afternoon of the same day.  I had modestly whispered to different persons at the meeting in the new house the night before, that my name was mentioned by my friends for the office of Alcalde; and my nomination followed.  But I was not to have the office without a struggle; an opposition candidate appeared, and an exciting election ensued.  The main objection urged against me was that I was a new comer.  I had been there only three days; my opponent had been there six.  I beat him, however, by nine votes.<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">See Exhibit B, in Appendix.</NOTE>
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114.sgm:<P>On the evening of the election, there was a general gathering of people at the Adobe house, the principal building of the place, to hear the official announcement of the result of the election.  When this was made, some one proposed that a name should be adopted for the new town.  One man suggested "Yubafield," because of its situation on the Yuba River; and another, "Yubaville," for the same reason.  A third, urged the name "Circumdoro," (surrounded with gold, as he translated the word,) because there were mines in every direction round about.  But there was a fourth, a solid and substantial old man, evidently of kindly domestic affections, who had come out to California to better his fortunes.  He now rose and remarked that there was an American lady in the place, the wife of one of the proprietors; that her name was Mary; and that, in his opinion, her name ought to be given to the town, and it should be called, in her honor, "Marysville."  No sooner had he made the suggestion, than the meeting broke out into loud hurrahs; every hat made a circle around its owner's head, and we christened the new town "Marysville," without a dissenting voice.  For a few days afterwards, the town was called both Yubaville and Marysville, but the latter name was soon generally adopted, and the place is so called to this day.  The lady, in whose honor it was named was Mrs. Covillaud.  She was one of the survivors of the Donner party, which suffered so frightfully while crossing the Sierra Nevadas in the winter of 1846-7, and had been living in the country ever since that terrible time.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>With my notions of law, I did not attach much importance to the election, but I had a certificate of election made out and signed by the Inspectors, stating that at a meeting of the residents of the District of Yubaville, on the day named, an election for officers had been held, and designating the Inspectors who were appointed, the number of votes that had been cast for the office of Alcalde, and the number received by myself, and the number received by my opponent, and that as I had received a majority of all the votes cast, I was elected to that office.  It was made out with all possible formality, and when completed, was sent to the Prefect of the District.  This officer, a Mr. E. O. Crosby, afterwards Minister to one of the South American Republics, wrote back approving my election, and advising me to act.  His advice, under the circumstances, was a matter of some moment.  The new Constitution of the State had gone into effect, though it was still uncertain whether it would be recognized by Congress.  Mr. Crosby, therefore, thought it best for me to procure, in addition to my commission as Alcalde, an appointment as Justice of the Peace; and through his kind offices, I obtained from Governor Burnett the proper document bearing his official seal.  After my election, I went to Sacramento, and on the 22d of January, 1850, was sworn into office as First Alcalde of Yubaville, by the Judge of the Court of First Instance, as that was the name of the district in the certificate of election; but I was always designated, after the name of the town had been adopted, as First Alcalde of Marysville.<ANCHOR ID="n2-3">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3">See Exhibit C, in Appendix.</NOTE>
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114.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter, whose deed I had drawn, was a remarkable character.  He was about five feet nine inches in height, and was thick-set.  He had a large head and an open, manly face, somewhat hardened and bronzed by his life in the open air.  His hair was thin and light, and he wore a mustache.  He had the appearance of an old officer of the French army, with a dignified and military bearing.  I subsequently became well acquainted with him, and learned both to respect and to pity him.  I respected him for his intrepid courage, his gentle manners, his large heart, and his unbounded benevolence.  I pitied him for his simplicity, which, while suspecting nothing wrong in others, led him to trust all who had a kind word on their lips, and made him the victim of every sharper in the country.  He was a native of Switzerland and was an officer in the Swiss Guards, in the service of the King of France, in 1823, and for some years afterwards.  In 1834, he emigrated to America, and had varied and strange adventures among the Indians at the West; in the Sandwich Islands, at Fort Vancouver, in Alaska, and along the Pacific Coast.  In July, 1839, the vessel which he was aboard of, was stranded in the harbor of San Francisco.  He then penetrated into the interior of California and founded the first white settlement in the valley of the Sacramento, on the river of that name, at the mouth of the American River, which settlement he named Helvetia.  He built a fort there and gathered around it a large number of native Indians and some white settlers.  In 1841, the Mexican government granted to him a tract of land eleven square <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:leagues in extent; and, subsequently, a still larger concession was made to him by the Governor of the Department.  But the Governor being afterwards expelled from the country, the concession was held to be invalid.  The emigrants arriving in the country after the discovery of gold proved the ruin of his fortunes.  They squatted upon his land, denied the validity of his title, cut down his timber, and drove away his cattle.  Sharpers robbed him of what the squatters did not take, until at last he was stripped of everything; and, finally, he left the State, and for some years has been living with relatives in Pennsylvania.  Even the stipend of $2,500, which the State of California for some years allowed him, has been withdrawn, and now in his advanced years, he is almost destitute.  Yet, in his days of prosperity, he was always ready to assist others.  His fort was always open to the stranger, and food, to the value of many thousand dollars, was, every year, so long as he had the means, sent out by him for the relief of emigrants crossing the plains.  It is a reproach to California that she leaves the pioneer and hero destitute in his old age.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXPERIENCES AS ALCALDE.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>UNDER the Mexican law, Alcaldes had, as already stated, a very limited jurisdiction.  But in the anomalous condition of affairs under the American occupation, they exercised almost unlimited powers.  They were, in fact, regarded as magistrates elected by the people for the sake of preserving public order and settling disputes of all kinds.  In my own case, and with the approval of the community, I took jurisdiction of every case brought before me.  I knew nothing of Mexican law; did not pretend to know it; but I knew that the people had elected me to act as a magistrate and looked to me for the preservation of order and the settlement of disputes; and I did my best that they should not be disappointed.  I let it be known that my election had been approved by the highest authority.</p><P>The first case I tried was in the street.  Two men came up to me, one of them leading a horse.  He said, "Mr. Alcalde, we both claim this horse, and we want you to decide which of us is entitled to it."  I turned to the man who had the horse, administered an oath to him, and then examined him as to where he got the horse, of whom and when, whether he had a bill of sale, whether there was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:any mark or brand on the animal, and, in short, put all those questions which would naturally be asked in such a case to elicit the truth.  I then administered an oath to the other man and put him through a similar examination, paying careful attention to what each said.  When the examination was completed I at once decided the case.  "It is very plain, gentlemen," I said, "that the horse belongs to this man (pointing to one of them) and the other must give him up."  "But," said the man who had lost and who held the horse, "the bridle certainly belongs to me, he does not take the bridle, does he?"  I said, "Oh no, the bridle is another matter."  As soon as I said this the owner of the bridle turned to his adversary and said, "What will you take for the horse?" "Two hundred and fifty dollars," was the instant reply.  "Agreed," retorted the first, and then turning to me, he continued: "And now, Mr. Alcalde, I want you to draw me up a bill of sale for this horse which will stick."  I, of course, did as he desired.  I charged an ounce for trying the case and an ounce for the bill of sale; charges which were promptly paid.  Both parties went off perfectly satisfied.  I was also well pleased with my first judicial experience.</p><P>Soon after my election I went to San Francisco to get my effects; and while there I purchased, on credit, a frame house and several zinc houses, which were at once shipped to Marysville.  As soon as the frame house was put up I opened my office in it, and exercised not only the functions of a magistrate and justice, but also of a supervisor of the town.  I opened books for the record of deeds and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:kept a registry of conveyances in the district.  I had the banks of the river graded so as to facilitate the landing from vessels.  The marshal of my court, elected at the same time with myself, having refused to act, I appointed an active and courageous person in his place, R. B. Buchanan by name, and directed him to see that peace was preserved, and for that purpose to appoint as many deputies as might be necessary.  He did so, and order and peace were preserved throughout the district, not only in Marysville, but for miles around.</p><P>As a judicial officer, I tried many cases, both civil and criminal, and I dictated the form of process suited to the exigency.  Thus, when a complaint was made to me by the owner of a river boat, that the steamer, which plied between Marysville and Sacramento, had run down his boat, by which a part of its cargo was lost, I at once dictated process to the marshal, in which the alleged injury was recited, and he was directed to seize the steamer, and hold it until further orders, unless the captain or owner gave security to appear in the action commenced by the owner of the boat, and pay any judgement that might be recovered therein.  Upon service of the process the captain appeared, gave the required security, and the case was immediately tried.  Judgment was rendered and paid within five hours after the commission of the injury.</p><P>In civil cases, I always called a jury, if the parties desired one; and in criminal cases, when the offence was of a high grade, I went through the form of calling a grand jury, and having an indictment found; and in all cases <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:I appointed an attorney to represent the people, and also the accused, when necessary.  The Americans in the country had a general notion of what was required for the preservation of order and the due administration of justice; and as I endeavored to administer justice promptly, but upon a due consideration of the rights of every one, and not rashly, I was sustained with great unanimity by the community.</p><P>I have reported a civil case tried before me as Alcalde.  I will now give a few criminal prosecutions and their circumstances.  One morning, about five o'clock, a man tapped at my window, and cried, "Alcalde, Alcalde, there has been a robbery, and you are wanted."  I got up at once, and while I was dressing he told his story.  Nearly every one in those days lived in a tent and had his gold dust with him.  The man, who proved to be Gildersleeve, the famous runner, upon going to bed the previous evening had placed several pounds of gold dust in his trunk, which was not locked.  In the night some one had cut through his tent and taken the gold dust.  I asked him if he suspected anybody; and he named two men, and gave such reasons for his suspicion that I immediately dictated a warrant for their arrest; and in a short time the two men were arrested and brought before me.  The gold dust was found on one of them.  I immediately called a grand jury, by whom he was indicted.  I then called a petit jury, and assigned counsel for the prisoner.  He was immediately placed upon his trial, and was convicted.  The whole proceeding occupied only a part of the day.  There was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:great crowd and much excitement, and some talk of lynching.  Curiously enough, my real trouble did not commence until after the conviction.  What was to be done with the prisoner?  How was he to be punished?  Imposing a fine would not answer; and, if he had been discharged, the crowd would have immediately hung him.  When at San Francisco, Mayor Geary, of that place, told me if I would send my convicts to him, with money enough to pay for a ball and chain for each one, he would put them in the chain--gang.  But at that time the price of passage by steamer from Marysville to San Francisco was fifty dollars, which, with the expense of an officer to accompany the prisoner, and the price of a ball and chain, would have amounted to a much larger sum than the prosecution could afford; so it was clearly impracticable to think of sending him to San Francisco.  Nor is it at all likely that the people would have consented to his removal.  Under these circumstances there was but one course to pursue, and, however repugnant it was to my feelings to adopt it, I believe it was the only thing that saved the man's life.  I ordered him to be publicly whipped with fifty lashes, and added that if he were found, within the next two years, in the vicinity of Marysville, he should be again whipped.  I, however, privately ordered a physician to be present so as to see that no unnecessary severity was practiced.  In accordance with this sentence, the fellow was immediately taken out and flogged; and that was the last seen of him in that region.  He went off and never came back.  The latter part of the sentence, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:however, was supererogatory; for there was something so degrading in a public whipping, that I have never known a man thus whipped who would stay longer than he could help, or ever desire to return.  However this may have been, the sense of justice of the community was satisfied.  No blood had been shed; there had been no hanging; yet a severe public example had been given.</p><P>On another occasion a complaint was made that a man had stolen fifteen hundred dollars from a woman.  He was arrested, brought before me, indicted, tried, and convicted.  I had the same compunctions about punishment as before, but, as there was no other course, I ordered him to receive fifty lashes on his back on two successive days, unless he gave up the money, in which case he was to receive only fifty lashes.  As soon as the sentence was written down the marshal marched the prisoner out to a tree, made him hug the tree, and in the presence of the crowd that followed, began inflicting the lashes.  The man stood it for a while without flinching, but when he had received the twenty-second lash he cried out, "Stop, for God's sake, and I will tell you where the money is."  The marshal stopped and, accompanied by the crowd, took the man to the place indicated, where the money was recovered; and the thief was then made to carry it back to the woman and apologize for stealing it.  The marshal then consulted the sentence, and, finding that it prescribed fifty lashes at any rate, he marched the wretch back to the tree and gave him the balance, which was his due.</p><P>But the case which made the greatest impression upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the people, and did more to confirm my authority than anything else, was the following: There was a military encampment of United States soldiers on Bear River, about fifteen miles from Marysville, known as "Camp Far West."  One day an application was made to me to issue a warrant for the arrest of one of the soldiers for a larceny he had committed.  It was stated that a complaint had been laid before the local Alcalde near the camp; but that the officer in charge had refused to give up the soldier unless a warrant for that purpose were issued by me, it being the general impression that I was the only duly commissioned Alcalde in the district above Sacramento.  On this showing I issued my warrant, and a lieutenant of the army brought the soldier over.  The soldier was indicted, tried, convicted, and sentenced to be publicly whipped with the usual number of lashes, and the officer stood by and saw the punishment inflicted.  He then took the soldier back to camp, where it was afterwards reported that he received an additional punishment.  But before the lieutenant left me that day, and while we were dining together, he took occasion to say that, if at any time I had any trouble in enforcing the law, I had but to send him word and he would order out a company of troops to support me.  This offer I permitted to become known through the town; and people said--and with what effect may be imagined--"Why here is an Alcalde that has the troops of the United States at his back."</p><P>I have already stated that I had the banks of the Yuba River graded so as to facilitate the landing from vessels.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:I will now mention another instance of my administration as general supervisor of the town.  There were several squatters on the landing at the river, which, according to the plan of the town, was several hundred feet wide.  The lots fronting on this landing being the best for business, commanded the highest prices.  But on account of the squatters the owners were deprived of the benefit of the open ground of the landing in front of their property, and they complained to me.  I called upon the squatters and told them that they must leave, and that if they were not gone by a certain time, I should be compelled to remove them by force, and, if necessary, to call to my aid the troops of the United States.  This was enough; the squatters left, the landing was cleared, and business went on smoothly.</p><P>In addition to my ordinary duties as a judicial officer and as general supervisor of the town, I acted as arbitrator in a great number of controversies which arose between the citizens.  In such cases the parties generally came to my office together and stated that they had agreed to leave the matter in dispute between them to my decision.  I immediately heard their respective statements--sometimes under oath, and sometimes without oath--and decided the matter at once.  The whole matter was disposed of without any written proceedings, except in some instances I gave to parties a memorandum of my decision.  Thus on one occasion a dispute arose as to the rate of wages, between several workmen and their employer; the workmen insisting upon twelve dollars a day and the employer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:refusing to give more than ten.  To settle the dispute they agreed to leave the matter to me.  I heard their respective statements, and after stating that both of them ought to suffer a little for not having made a specific contract at the outset, decided that the workingmen should receive eleven dollars a day, with which both appeared to be well satisfied.  On another occasion parties disputed as to whether freight on a box of crockery should be charged by measurement or by weight, a specific contract having been made that all articles shipped by the owner should be carried at a fixed price per hundred pounds.  They agreed to leave the matter to my determination, and I settled it in five minutes.  Again, on one occasion a woman, apparently about fifty-six, rushed into my office under great excitement, exclaiming that she wanted a divorce from her husband, who had treated her shamefully.  A few moments afterwards the husband followed, and he also wanted relief from the bonds of matrimony.  I heard their respective complaints, and finding that they had children, I persuaded them to make peace, kiss, and forgive; and so they left my office arm-in-arm, each having promised the other never to do so again, amid the applause of the spectators.  In this way I carried out my conception of the good Cadi of the village, from which term (Al Cadi) my own official designation, Alcalde, was derived.</p><P>To make a long story short, until I was superseded by officers under the State government, I superintended municipal affairs and administered justice in Marysville <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:with success.  Whilst there was a large number of residents there of high character and culture, who would have done honor to any city, there were also unfortunately many desperate persons, gamblers, blacklegs, thieves, and cut-throats; yet the place was as orderly as a New England village.  There were no disturbances at night, no riots, and no lynching.  It was the model town of the whole country for peacefulness and respect for law.</p><P>And now a word about my speculations.  In a short time after going to Marysville and writing my name down for sixty-five town lots, property increased ten-fold in value.  Within ninety days I sold over $25,000 worth, and still had most of my lots left.  My frame and zinc houses brought me a rental of over $1,000 a month.  The emoluments of my office of Alcalde were also large.  In criminal cases I received nothing for my services as judge, and in civil cases the fees were small; but as an officer to take acknowledgments and affidavits and record deeds, the fees I received amounted to a large sum.  At one time I had $14,000 in gold dust in my safe, besides the rentals and other property.</p><P>One day whilst I was Alcalde, a bright-looking lad, with red cheeks and apparently about seventeen years of age. came into the office and asked if I did not want a clerk.  I said I did, and would willingly give $200 a month for a good one; but that I had written to Sacramento and was expecting one from there.  The young man suggested that perhaps the one from Sacramento would not come or might be delayed, and he would like to take the place in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the meanwhile.  I replied, very well, if he was willing to act until the other arrived, he might do so.  And thereupon he took hold and commenced work.  Three days afterwards the man from Sacramento arrived; but in the meanwhile I had become so much pleased with the brightness and quickness of my young clerk that I would not part with him.  That young clerk was George C. Gorham, the present Secretary of the United States Senate.  I remember him distinctly as he first appeared to me, with red and rosy cheeks.  His quickness of comprehension was really wonderful.  Give him half an idea of what was wanted, and he would complete it as it were by intuition.  I remember on one occasion he wanted to know what was necessary for a marriage settlement.  I asked him why.  He replied that he had been employed by a French lady to prepare such a settlement, and was to receive twenty-five dollars for the instrument.  I gave him some suggestions, but added that he had better let me see the document after he had written it.  In a short time afterwards he brought it to me, and I was astonished to find it so nearly perfect.  There was only one correction to make.  And thus ready I always found him.  With the most general directions he would execute everything committed to his charge, and usually with perfect correctness.  He remained with me several months, and acted as clerk of my Alcalde court, and years afterwards, at different times was a clerk in my office.  When I went upon the bench of the Supreme Court, I appointed him clerk of the Circuit Court of the United States for the District of California, and, with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:exception of the period during which he acted as secretary of Gov. Low, he remained as such clerk until he was nominated for the office of governor of the State, when he resigned.  Through the twenty-seven years of our acquaintance, from 1850 to the present time, July, 1877, his friendship and esteem have been sincere and cordial, which no personal abuse of me could change and no political differences between us could alienate.  His worldly possessions would have been more abundant had he pursued the profession of the law, which I urged him to do; and his success as a public man would have been greater, had he been more conciliatory to those who differed from him in opinion.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE TURNER CONTROVERSY.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>TOWARDS the end of May, 1850, William R. Turner, who had been appointed Judge of the Eighth Judicial District of the State by the first Legislature which convened under the Constitution, made his appearance and announced that he intended to open the District Court at Marysville on the first Monday of the next month.  We were all pleased with the prospect of having a regular court and endeavored, as far as lay in our power, to make the stay of the Judge with us, agreeable.  I had been in the habit of receiving a package of New York newspapers by every steamer, and among them came copies of the New York "Evening Post," which was at that time the organ of the so-called Free-soil party.  When Judge Turner arrived, I waited on him to pay my respects, and sent him the various newspapers I had received.  He had lived for years in Texas, and, as it proved, was a man of narrow mind and bitter prejudices.  He seems to have had a special prejudice against New Yorkers and regarded a Free-soiler as an abomination.  I have been told, and I believe such to be the fact, that my sending him these newspapers, and particularly the "Evening Post," led him to believe that I was an "Abolitionist"--a person held in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:special abhorrence in those days by gentlemen from the South.  At any rate he conceived a violent dislike of me, which was destined in a short time to show itself and cause me great annoyance.  What was intended on my part as an act of courtesy, turned out to be the beginning of a long, bitter, and on his part, ferocious quarrel.  At that time my affairs were in a very prosperous condition, as I have already stated.  I had $14,000 in gold dust, a rental of over a thousand dollars a month, and a large amount of city property constantly increasing in value.  Such being the case, I thought I would go East on a visit, and accordingly began making arrangements to leave.  But shortly before the opening of the June term of the District Court, Captain Sutter came to me and told me he had been sued by a man named Cameron, and wished me to appear as his counsel.  I answered that I was making arrangements to go East and he had better retain some one else.  He replied that I ought to remain long enough to appear for him and assist his attorney, and begged of me as an act of friendship to do so.  I finally consented, and deferred my departure.</p><P>Soon after the opening of the court, some time during the first week, the case of Captain Sutter was called.  A preliminary motion, made by his attorney, was decided against him.  Mr. Jesse O. Goodwin, a member of the bar, sitting near, said to me that the practice act, passed at the recent session of the Legislature, contained a section bearing upon the question; and at the same time handed me the act.  I immediately rose, and addressing the court, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:remarked that I was informed there was a statutory provision applicable to the point, and begged permission to read it; and commenced turning over the pages of the act in search of it, when Judge Turner, addressing me and apparently irritates, said in a petulant manner;--"The court knows the law--the mind of the court is made up--take your seat, sir."  I was amazed at hearing such language; but in a respectful and quiet manner stated that I excepted to the decision, and appealed, or would appeal from the order.  The Judge instantly replied, in a loud and boisterous manner, "Fine that gentleman two hundred dollars."  I replied quietly, "Very well," or "Well, sir."  He immediately added, in an angry tone, "I fine him three hundred dollars, and commit him to the custody of the sheriff eight hours."  I again replied, "Very well."  He instantly exclaimed, in the same violent manner, "I fine him four hundred dollars and commit him twelve hours."  I then said that it was my right by statute to appeal from any order of his honor, and that it was no contempt of court to give notice of an exception or an appeal, and asked the members of the bar present if it could be so regarded.  But the Judge, being very ignorant of the practice of the law, regarded an exception to his decision as an impeachment of his judgment, and, therefore, something like a personal affront.  And so, upon my statement, he flew into a perfect rage, and in a loud and boisterous tone cried out, "I fine him five hundred dollars and commit him twenty-four hours--forty-eight hours--turn him out of court--subp&oelig;na a posse--subp&oelig;na me."  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:then left the court-room.  The attorney in the case accompanied me, and we were followed by the deputy sheriff.  After going a few steps we met the coroner, to whom the deputy sheriff transferred me; and the coroner accompanied me to my office, and after remaining there a few moments left me to myself.  On the way an incident occurred, which probably inflamed Judge Turner against me more than anything else that could have happened.  The attorney, who was much exasperated at the conduct of the Judge, said to me as we met the coroner, "Never mind what the Judge does; he is an old fool."  I replied, "Yes, he is an old jackass."  This was said in an ordinary conversational tone; but a man by the name of Captain Powers, with whom Turner boarded, happened to overhear it, and running to the court-house, and opening the door, he hallooed out, "Judge Turner! oh, Judge Turner!  Judge Field says you are an old jackass."  A shout followed, and the Judge seemed puzzled whether or not he should send an officer after me, or punish his excitable friend for repeating my language.</p><P>I remained in my office the remainder of the day, and many people who were present in court, or heard of what had occurred, called to see me.  I immediately wrote out a full statement of everything that happened in the court-room, and had it verified by a number of persons who were eye and ear witnesses of the affair.  Towards evening the deputy sheriff met the Judge, who asked him what he had done with me.  The deputy answered that I had gone to my office and was still there.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:Judge said, "Go and put him under lock and key, and, if necessary, put him in irons."  The deputy came to me and said, "The Judge has sent me to put you under lock and key; let me turn the key upon you in your own office."  At this I became indignant, and asked for his warrant or commitment to hold me.  He replied that he had none, that only a verbal order was given to him by the Judge in the street.  I then told him he must go away from me and leave me alone.  He replied that, "as he was acting by the orders of the sheriff, whose deputy he was, in obeying the Judge, he must do as he had been directed."  He added, "I will lock the door anyway," and doing so he went off.  I immediately sued out a writ of habeas corpus returnable before Henry P. Haun, the County Judge.  The writ was executed forthwith, and the same evening I was taken before the Judge.  There was a great crowd present.  I called the sheriff to the stand and asked him if he had any writ, process, commitment, or order by which he held me in custody.  He replied that he had none.  I then put on the stand Samuel B. Mulford and Jesse O. Goodwin and several others, who were present in the District Court where the scenes narrated had occurred, and they testified that there was nothing disrespectful in my language or manner; that I had not used an expression at which anybody could justly take offence; and that they had been utterly surprised at the conduct of the Judge, which was violent and tyrannical; and that they saw no possible excuse for it.  This testimony was of course of no consequence on the question presented by the habeas corpus; because, as there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:was no order or warrant for my arrest in the possession of the officer, I could not, under any circumstances, be held; but I wished to show my friends, who had not been present in the court-room, the facts of the case.</p><P>I was of course at once discharged.  But the matter did not end there.  An excited crowd was present, and as I left the court-room they cheered enthusiastically.  I thereupon invited them to the Covillaud House, a public house in the town, and directed the keeper to dispense to them the good things of his bar.  The champagne was accordingly uncorked without stint, and the best Havana boxes were soon emptied of their most fragrant cigars.  A bill of $290 paid the next day settled the account.  Whilst the boys were thus enjoying themselves, Judge Turner, who was not far off, entered the Covillaud House, perfectly furious, and applied obscene and vile epithets to the County Judge, declaring with an oath that he would teach "that fellow" that he was an inferior judge, and that the witnesses before him were a set of "perjured scoundrels" who should be expelled from the bar.  Similar threats were made by him in different saloons in the town, to the disgust of every one.  That evening he was burned in effigy in the public plaza.  I had nothing to do with that act, and did not approve of it.  I did not know then, and do not know to this day who were engaged in it.  He attributed it to me, however, and his exasperation towards me in consequence became a malignant fury.</p><P>On the Monday following, June 10th, which was the first day on which the court was held after the scenes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:narrated, Judge Turner, on the opening of the court, before the minutes of the previous session were read, and without notice to the parties, or any hearing of them, although they were present at the time, ordered that Judge Haun be fined fifty dollars and be imprisoned forty-eight hours for his judicial act in discharging me from arrest, under some pretence that the order of the court had been thus obstructed by him.  At the same time he ordered that I should be re-imprisoned, and that Mr. Mulford, Mr. Goodwin, and myself should be expelled from the bar; myself for suing out the writ, and those two gentlemen for being witnesses on its return, under the pretence that we had "vilified the court and denounced its proceedings."  Judge Haun paid his fine and left the court-room, and I was again taken into custody by the sheriff.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">See Exhibit D, in Appendix.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>It happened to be the day appointed by law for the opening of the Court of Sessions of the county, over which the County Judge presided.  Judge Haun proceeded from the District Court to the room engaged for the Court of Sessions, and there, in connection with an associate justice, opened that court.  Immediately afterwards I sued out another writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
114.sgm:, returnable forthwith, and whilst before the court arguing for my discharge under the writ, the sheriff entered and declared his intention of taking me out of the room, and of taking Judge Haun from the bench and putting us in confinement, pursuant to the order of Judge Turner.  Judge Haun told the sheriff that the Court of Sessions was holding its regular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:term; that he was violating the law, and that the court must not be disturbed in its proceedings.  Judge Turner was then informed that the Court of Sessions was sitting; that Judge Haun was on the bench, and that I was arguing before the court on a writ of habeas corpus.  Judge Turner immediately ordered a posse to be summoned and appealed to gentlemen in the court-room to serve on it, and directed the sheriff to take Judge Haun and myself into custody by force, notwithstanding Judge Haun was on the bench, and I was arguing my case; and if necessary to put Judge Haun in irons--to handcuff him.  Soon afterwards the sheriff, with a posse, entered the room of the Court of Sessions, and forced me out of it, and was proceeding to seize Judge Haun on the bench, when the Judge stepped to a closet and drew from it a navy revolver, cocked it, and, pointing it towards the sheriff, informed him in a stern manner that he was violating the law; that whilst on the bench he, the Judge, could not be arrested, and that if the sheriff attempted to do so he would kill him.  At the same time he fined the sheriff for contempt of court $200, and appointed a temporary bailiff to act, and directed him to clear the court-room of the disturbers.  The new bailiff summoned all the bystanders, who instantly responded, and the court-room was immediately cleared.  Judge Haun then laid his revolver on a drawer before him, and inquired if there was any business ready; for if so the court would hear it.  There being none, the court adjourned.</p><P>I regret to be compelled to add, that notwithstanding the manly and courageous conduct which Judge Haun <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:had thus shown, no sooner was the court adjourned than he was persuaded to make a qualified apology to the District Court for discharging me, by sending a communication to it, stating "that if he was guilty of obstructing the order of the court in releasing Field, he did it ignorantly, not intending any contempt by so doing;" and thereupon the District Court ordered that he be released from confinement, and that his fine be remitted.<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">See Exhibit E, in Appendix.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>Of course there was great excitement through the town as soon as these proceedings became known.  That night nearly all Marysville came to my office.  I made a speech to the people.  Afterwards some of them passed in front of Turner's house, and gave him three groans.  They then dispersed, and in returning home some of them fired off their pistols as a sort of finale to the proceedings of the evening.  The firing was not within three hundred yards of Turner's house; but he seized hold of the fact of firing, and stated that he had been attacked in his house by an armed mob.  He also charged that I had instigated the crowd to attack him, but the facts are as I have stated them.  There was a great deal of feeling on the part of the people, who generally sided with me; but I did nothing to induce them to violate the law or disturb the peace.  Even if I wished to do so, prudence and policy counselled otherwise.</p><P>When Turner caused the names of Mulford, Goodwin, and myself, to be stricken from the roll of attorneys, we, of course, could no longer appear as counsel in his court.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:I at once prepared the necessary papers, and applied to the Supreme Court of the State for a mandamus to compel him to vacate the order and reinstate us.  I took the ground that an attorney and counsellor, by his admission to the bar, acquired rights of which he could not be arbitrarily deprived; that he could not, under any circumstances, be expelled from the bar without charges being preferred against him and an opportunity afforded to be heard in his defence; that the proceedings of Judge Turner being ex-parte, without charges preferred, and without notice, were void; and that a mandate, directing him to vacate the order of expulsion and restore us to the bar, ought to be issued immediately.</p><P>In addition to this application, I also moved for a mandamus to him to vacate the order imposing a fine and imprisonment upon me for the alleged contempt of his court, or for such other order in the premises as might be just.  I took the ground, that as the order did not show any act committed which could constitute a contempt of court, it was void on its face, and should be so declared.  My old friend, Gregory Yale, assisted me in the presentation of these motions.  In deciding them, the court delivered two opinions, in which these positions were sustained.  They are reported under the titles of People, ex rel.  Mulford et al., vs. Turner, 1 Cal., 143; and People, ex rel. Field, vs. Turner, 1 Cal., 152.  In the first case, a peremptory writ of mandamus was issued, directed to Judge Turner, ordering him to reinstate us as attorneys; in the second, a writ of certiorari was issued to bring up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the order imposing a fine, which was subsequently reversed and vacated, as shown in Ex-parte Field, 1 Cal., 187.  The opinions referred to were delivered by Judge Bennett, and are models of their kind.  Many years afterwards, when a somewhat similar question came before the Supreme Court of the United States, I was called upon to announce its judgment; and in doing so, I followed these opinions, as may be seen by reference to the case of Ex-parte Robinson, 19 Wallace, 510.  I there repeated substantially the doctrine of Judge Bennett, which is the only doctrine that will protect an attorney and counsellor from the tyranny of an arbitrary and capricious officer, and preserve to him his self-respect and independence.</p><P>When the order for our restoration came down from the Supreme Court, Turner refused to obey it; and wrote a scurrilous "Address to the Public" about us, which he published in one of the newspapers.  We replied in a sharp and bitter article, signed by ourselves and five other gentlemen; and at the same time we published a petition to the Governor, signed by all the prominent citizens of Marysville, asking for Judge Turner's removal.  There was a general impression in those days that judges appointed before the admission of the State into the Union held their offices subject to removal by the Governor.  I hardly know how this impression originated, but probably in some vague notions about the powers of Mexican Governors.  However this may be, such was the general notion, and in accordance with it, a petition for Turner's removal was started, and, as I have said, was very generally signed.<ANCHOR ID="n4-3">*</ANCHOR>
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114.sgm:The matter had by this time assumed such a serious character, and the Judge's conduct was so atrocious, that the people became alarmed and with great unanimity demanded his deposition from office.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-3">See Exhibit F, in Appendix.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>In the article referred to as published by us, we said, after setting forth the facts, that "Judge Turner is a man of depraved tastes, of vulgar habits, of an ungovernable temper, reckless of truth when his passions are excited, and grossly incompetent to discharge the duties of his office."  Unfortunately the statement was perfectly true.  He refused to obey the mandate of the Supreme Court, even talked of setting that court at defiance, and went around saying that every one who had signed an affidavit against him was "a perjured villain," and that as to Goodwin, Mulford, and Field, he would "cut their ears off."  He frequented the gambling saloons, associated with disreputable characters, and was addicted to habits of the most disgusting intoxication.  Besides being abusive in his language, he threatened violence, and gave out that he intended to insult me publicly the first time we met, and that, if I resented his conduct, he would shoot me down on the spot.  This being reported to me by various persons, I went to San Francisco and consulted Judge Bennett as to what course I ought to pursue.  Judge Bennett asked if I were certain that he had made such a threat.  I replied I was.  "Well," said the Judge, "I will not give you any advice; but if it were my case, I think I should get a shot-gun and stand on the street, and see that I had the first shot."  I replied that "I could not do that; that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:I would act only in self-defence."  He replied, "That would be acting in self-defence."  When I came to California, I came with all those notions, in respect to acts of violence, which are instilled into New England youth; if a man were rude, I would turn away from him.  But I soon found that men in California were likely to take very great liberties with a person who acted in such a manner, and that the only way to get along was to hold every man responsible, and resent every trespass upon one's rights.  Though I was not prepared to follow Judge Bennett's suggestion, I did purchase a pair of revolvers and had a sack-coat made with pockets in which the barrels could lie, and be discharged; and I began to practice firing the pistols from the pockets.  In time I acquired considerable skill, and was able to hit a small object across the street.  An object so large as a man I could have hit without difficulty.  I had come to the conclusion that if I had to give up my independence; if I had to avoid a man because I was afraid he would attack me; if I had to cross the street every time I saw him coming, life itself was not worth having.</p><P>Having determined neither to seek him nor to shun him, I asked a friend to carry a message to him, and to make sure that it would reach him, I told different parties what I had sent, and I was confident that they would repeat it to him.  "Tell him from me," I said, "that I do not want any collision with him; that I desire to avoid all personal difficulties; but that I shall not attempt to avoid him; that I shall not cross the street on his account, nor go a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:step out of my way for him; that I have heard of his threats, and that if he attacks me or comes at me in a threatening manner I will kill him."<ANCHOR ID="n4-4">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: I acted on my plan.  I often met him in the streets and in saloons, and whenever I drew near him I dropped my hand into my pocket and cocked my pistols to be ready for any emergency.  People warned me to look out for him; to beware of being taken at a disadvantage; and I was constantly on my guard.  I felt that I was in great danger; but after awhile this sense of danger had a sort of fascination, and I often went to places where he was, to which I would not otherwise have gone.  Whenever I met him I kept my eye on him, and whenever I passed him on the street I turned around and narrowly watched him until he had gone some distance.  I am persuaded if I had taken any other course, I should have been killed.  I do not say Turner would have deliberately shot me down, or that he would have attempted anything against me in his sober moments; but when excited with drink, and particularly when in the presence of the lawless crowds who heard his threats, it would have taken but little to urge him on.  As it turned out, however, he never interfered with me, perhaps because he knew I was armed and believed that, if I were attacked, somebody, and perhaps more than one, would be badly hurt.  I have been often assured by citizens of Marysville that it was only the seeming recklessness of my conduct, and the determination I showed not to avoid him or go out of his way, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:that saved me.  But at the same time my business was ruined.  Not only was I prevented, by his refusal to obey the mandate of the Supreme Court, from appearing as an advocate, but I could not, on account of the relation I occupied towards him, practice at all; nor could I, under the circumstances, leave Marysville and make my intended visit East.  Having nothing else to do, I went into speculations which failed, and in a short time--a much shorter time than it took to make my money--I lost nearly all I had acquired and became involved in debt.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-4">See Exhibit G, in Appendix.</NOTE>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>RUNNING FOR THE LEGISLATURE.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>One morning about this time I unexpectedly found myself in the newspapers, nominated by my friends as a candidate for the lower house of the Legislature.  Who the friends were that named me I did not know; but the nomination opened a new field and suggested new ideas.  I immediately accepted the candidacy.  Judge Turner had threatened, among other things, to drive me into the Yuba River.  I now turned upon him, and gave out that my object in wishing to go to the Legislature was to reform the judiciary, and, among other things, to remove him from the district.  I canvassed the county thoroughly and was not backward in portraying him in his true colors.  He and his associates spared no efforts to defeat me.  Their great reliance consisted in creating the belief that I was an abolitionist.  If that character could have been fastened upon me it would have been fatal to my hopes, for it was a term of great reproach.  Yuba County then comprised the present county of that name, and also what are now Nevada and Sierra Counties.  It was over a hundred miles in length and about fifty in width, and had a population of twenty-five thousand people, being the most populous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:mining region in the State.  I visited nearly every precinct and spoke whenever I could get an audience.  An incident of the canvass may not be uninteresting.  I went to the town of Nevada a little more than a week before the election.  As I was riding through its main street a gentleman whom I had long known, General John Anderson, hailed me, and, after passing a few words, said, "Field, you wont get fifty votes here."  I asked, "Why not?"  He replied, "Because everybody is for McCarty, your opponent."  I said, somwhat sharply, "Anderson, I have come here to fight my own battle and I intend to carry Nevada."  He laughed and I rode on.  The first man I met after reaching the hotel was Captain Morgan, who afterwards commanded a steamer on the Bay of San Francisco.  After talking for some time on general topics, he asked me about a story in circulation that I was an abolitionist.  I saw at once the work of enemies, and I now understood the meaning of General Anderson's remark.  I assured Morgan that the story was entirely false, and added; "Tomorrow will be Sunday; everybody will be in town; I will then make a speech and show the people what kind of a man I am, and what my sentiments are on this and other subjects."  Accordingly, the next day, in the afternoon, when the miners from the country were in town and had nothing else to do than to be amused, I mounted a platform erected for the purpose in the main street, and commenced speaking.  I soon had a crowd of listeners.  I began about my candidacy, and stated what I expected to do if elected.  I referred to the necessity of giving greater <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:jurisdiction to the local magistrates, in order that contests of miners respecting their claims might be tried in their vicinity.  As things then existed the right to a mule could not be litigated without going to the county seat, at a cost greater than the value of the animal.  I was in favor of legislation which would protect miners in their claims, and exempt their tents, rockers, and utensils used in mining from forced sale.  I was in favor of dividing the county, and making Nevada the seat of the new county.  I had heard of numerous measures they wanted, and I told them how many of these measures I advocated.  Having got their attention and excited their interest, I referred to the charge made against me of being an abolitionist, and denounced it as a base calumny.  In proof of the charge I was told that I had a brother in New York who was a free-soiler.  So I had, I replied, and a noble fellow he is--God bless him wherever he may be.  But I added, I have another brother who is a slaveholder in Tennessee, and with which one, I asked, in the name of all that is good, were they going to place me.  I wondered if these "honorable" men, who sought by such littleness to defeat me, did not find out whether I did not have some other relatives,--women, perhaps, who believed in things unearthly and spiritual,--whose opinions they could quote to defeat me.  Shame on such tactics, I said, and the crowd answered by loud cheering.  I then went on to give my views of our government, of the relation between the general government of the Union and the government of the States, to show that the former was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:created for national purposes which the States could not well accomplish--that we might have uniformity of commercial regulations, one army and one navy, a common currency, and the same postal system, and present ourselves as one nation to foreign countries--but that all matters of domestic concern were under the control and management of the States, with which outsiders could not interfere; that slavery was a domestic institution which each State must regulate for itself, without question or interference from others.  In other words, I made a speech in favor of State Rights, which went home to my hearers, who were in great numbers from the South.  I closed with a picture of the future of California, and of the glories of a country bounded by two oceans.  When I left the platform the cheers which followed showed that I had carried the people with me.  McCarty, my opponent, followed, but his speech fell flat.  Half his audience left before he had concluded.</p><P>The election took place a week from the following Monday.  I remained in Nevada until it was over.  At the precinct in town where I had spoken, I had between three and four hundred majority, and in another precinct in the outskirts I had a majority of two to one.  In the county generally I ran well, and was elected, notwithstanding the fact that I was not the nominee of any convention or the candidate of any party.  The morning following the election, as I was leaving Nevada, I rode by the store of General Anderson, and hailing him, inquired what he thought now of my getting fifty votes in the town.  "Well," he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:replied, "it was that Sunday speech of yours which did the business.  McCarty could not answer it."</p><P>There was one thing in the election which I regretted, and that was that I did not carry Marysville; a majority of the votes of its citizens was cast for my opponent.  It is true that there the greater number of gamblers and low characters of the county were gathered, but the better class predominated in numbers, and I looked with confidence to its support.  My regret, however, was sensibly diminished when I learned the cause of the failure of a portion of the people to give me their votes.  Some few weeks previous to the day of election a man was killed in the street by a person by the name of Keiger, who was immediately arrested.  The person killed was about leaving the State, and owed a small debt to Keiger, which he refused either to pay or to give security for its payment.  Exasperated by his refusal, Keiger drew a pistol and shot him.  I was sent for by an acquaintance of Keiger to attend his examination before the local magistrate, by whom he was held for the action of the grand jury.  In the afternoon of the same day a large crowd assembled in the streets, with the purpose of proceeding to the summary execution of Keiger.  Whilst the people were in a great state of excitement I made a speech to them, begging them not to resort to violence and thus cast reproach upon the good name of Marysville, but to let the law take its course, assuring them that justice would certainly be administered by the courts.  My remarks were received with evident displeasure, and I am inclined to think that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:violence would have been resorted to had not the prisoner been secretly removed from the city and taken to Sacramento.  The exasperation of a large number, at this escape of their intended victim, vented itself on me, and cost me at least a hundred votes in the city.  I would not have acted otherwise had I known beforehand that such would be the result of my conduct.  When the civil tribunals are open and in the undisturbed exercise of their jurisdiction, a resort to violence can never be approved or excused.</p><P>I witnessed some strange scenes during the campaign, which well illustrated the anomalous condition of society in the county.  I will mention one of them.  As I approached Grass Valley, then a beautiful spot among the hills, occupied principally by Mr. Walsh, a name since become familiar to Californians, I came to a building by the wayside, a small lodging-house and drinking-saloon, opposite to which a Lynch jury were sitting, trying a man upon a charge of stealing gold dust.  I stopped and watched for awhile the progress of the trial.  On an occasion of some little delay in the proceedings, I mentioned to those present, the jury included, that I was a candidate for the legislature, and that I would be glad if they would join me in a glass in the saloon, an invitation which was seldom declined in those days.  It was at once accepted, and leaving the accused in the hands of an improvised constable, the jury entered the house and partook of the drinks which its bar afforded.  I had discovered, or imagined from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:appearance of the prisoner, that he had been familiar in other days with a very different life from that of California, and my sympathies were moved towards him.  So, after the jurors had taken their drinks and were talking pleasantly together, I slipped out of the building and approaching the man, said to him, "What is the case against you?  Can I help you?"  The poor fellow looked up to me and his eyes filled with great globules of tears as he replied, "I am innocent of all I am charged with.  I have never stolen anything nor cheated any one; but I have no one here to befriend me."  That was enough for me.  Those eyes, filled as they were, touched my heart.  I hurried back to the saloon; and as the jurors were standing about chatting with each other I exclaimed, "How is this? you have not had your cigars?  Mr. bar-keeper, please give the gentlemen the best you have; and, besides, I added, let us have another "smile"--it is not often you have a candidate for the Legislature among you."  A laugh followed, and a ready acceptance was given to the invitation.  In the meantime my eyes rested upon a benevolentlooking man among the jury, and I singled him out for conversation.  I managed to draw him aside and inquired what State he came from.  He replied, from Connecticut.  I then asked if his parents lived there.  He answered, with a faltering voice, "My father is dead; my mother and sister are there."  I then said, "Your thoughts, I dare say, go out constantly to them; and you often write to them, of course."  His eyes glistened, and I saw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:pearl-like dew-drops gathering in them; his thoughts were carried over the mountains to his old home.  "Ah, my good friend," I added, "how their hearts must rejoice to hear from you."  Then, after a short pause, I remarked, "What is the case against your prisoner?  He, too, perhaps, may have a mother and sister in the East, thinking of him as your mother and sister do of you, and wondering when he will come back.  For God's sake remember this."  The heart of the good man responded in a voice which, even to this day--now nearly twenty-seven years past--sounds like a delicious melody in my ears: "I will do so."  Passing from him I went to the other jurors, and, finding they were about to go back to the trial, I exclaimed, "Don't be in a hurry, gentlemen, let us take another glass."  They again acceded to my request, and seeing that they were a little mellowed by their indulgence, I ventured to speak about the trial.  I told them that the courts of the state were organized, and there was no necessity or justification now for Lynch juries; that the prisoner appeared to be without friends, and I appealed to them, as men of large hearts, to think how they would feel if they were accused of crime where they had no counsel and no friends.  "Better send him, gentlemen, to Marysville for trial, and keep your own hands free from stain."  A pause ensued; their hearts were softened; and, fortunately, a man going to Marysville with a wagon coming up at this moment, I prevailed upon them to put the prisoner in his charge to be taken there.  The owner of the wagon consenting, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:swore him to take the prisoner to that place and deliver him over to the sheriff; and to make sure that he would keep the oath, I handed him a "slug," a local coin of octagonal form of the value of fifty dollars, issued at that time by assayers in San Francisco.  We soon afterwards separated.  As I moved away on my horse my head swam a little, but my heart was joyous.  Of all things which I can recall of the past, this is one of the most pleasant.  I believe I saved the prisoner's life; for in those days there was seldom any escape for a person tried by a Lynch jury.</p><P>The expenses of the election were very great.  It was difficult to interest the miners in it; most of them had come to the country in the hope of improving their fortunes in one or two years, and then returning to "the States."  It was, therefore, a matter of little moment to them who were chosen members of the coming Legislature.  Party lines were not regarded among them, and party questions could not draw many of them from their labors.  As I was an independent candidate, not supported by any party, I had to bear the whole expenses of the campaign.  How great those expenses were may be imagined from the following bill, one of a large number sent to me after the election.  I had told the saloon-keepers in the vicinity of the polling places in the different precincts to be liberally disposed towards my friends on the day of election.  They took me literally at my word, as this bill from the keeper of a saloon where the polls were opened in Downieville precinct will show:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>MR. S. J. FIELD, TO ORLEANS HOUSE.</p><P>To 460 drinks<HSEP>$230 00</p><P>275 cigars<HSEP>68 75</p><P>DOWNIEVILLE, <HI REND="italics">October 9th</HI>
114.sgm:, 1850.<HSEP>$298 75</p><P>[Endorsed:]</p><P>"We hereby certify that the within account is correct.</p><P>"P. L. MOORE.</p><P>"WM. S. SPEAR."</p><P>"Received payment of the within bill in full from Stephen J. Field.</p><P>"J. STRATMAN.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">October</HI>
114.sgm: 14 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
114.sgm:, 1850."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE TURNER CONTROVERSY CONTINUED.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>It was not until after my election that Judge Turner paid any attention to the mandate of the Supreme Court commanding him to vacate his order of expulsion against myself and Messrs. Goodwin and Mulford, and to restore us to the bar.  The mandate was issued on the fourth of July, and was served on the Judge on the sixteenth.  He immediately and publicly declared that he would not obey it, but would stand an impeachment first.  Whilst attending the Supreme Court on the application for the writ, Mr. Goodwin, Mr. Mulford, and myself were admitted as attorneys and counsellors of that court, and that admission under its rules entitled us to practice in all the courts of the State.  The effect of this, which re-instated us in the District Court, he determined to defeat.  He accordingly directed the sheriff of the county to notify us to show cause before the court in Sutter County, why we should not be again expelled from the bar for the publication of the article in the Placer Times, to which I have referred, written in reply to his attack on us in his "Address to the Public."  The order was dated on the fourth of October, and was served on the eighth, and required us to appear on the first Thursday of the month, which was the third.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:As the time for appearance was previous to the day of service and to the date of the order, no attention was paid to it.  The Judge, however, proceeded, and on the eleventh of the month made another order of expulsion.  After the adjournment of the court, he discovered his blunder, and at once issued another direction to the sheriff to notify us that the last order of expulsion was suspended until the twenty-eighth of October, and to show cause on that day why we should not be again expelled.  In the meantime, the Judge made no concealment of his purposes, but publicly declared in the saloons of the town that if we did not appear upon this second notice, he would make an order for our expulsion, and if we did appear, he would expel us for contempt in publishing the reply to his article, which he termed a false and slanderous communication.  We knew, of course, that it would be useless to appear and attempt to resist his threatened action; still, we concluded to appear and put in an answer.  Accordingly, on the day designated, we presented ourselves before the court in Sutter County.  I was the first one called upon to show cause why I should not be again expelled.  I stated that I was ready, and first read an affidavit of one of the Associate Justices of the Court of Sessions, to show that the Judge had declared his purpose to expel myself and the other gentlemen in any event, and that it was an idle ceremony to call upon us to show cause against such threatened action.  As soon as it was read, the Judge declared that it was not respectful and could not be received.  I then began to read my answer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:to the order to show cause, but was stopped when I had read about one half of it, and was told that it was not respectful and could not be received.  I then requested permission to file it, but my request was refused.  Mr. Mulford being called upon to show cause why he should not be expelled, began to read an answer, but was stopped after reading a few lines.  His answer was respectful, and was substantially to the effect that he had been admitted as attorney and counsellor in the Supreme Court on the previous July, and was thus entitled to practice in all the courts of the State; that the communication in the Placer Times was written in reply to an article of the Judge, and that he was ready at the proper time and place to substantiate its truth; and he protested against the Judge's interfering in the matter in the manner indicated in the notice.  Mr. Goodwin being called upon, took in his answer substantially the same grounds as Mr. Mulford.  Immediately after Mr. Goodwin took his seat, without a moment's hesitation, the Judge made an order that his previous order of the eleventh of October, expelling us, should be confirmed, and that the order should be published in the Sacarmento Times and the San Francisco Herald.  I immediately took the proper steps to obtain another mandate from the Supreme Court to vacate this second expulsion; and also to attach the Judge for non-compliance with the original mandate, the first order of expulsion still being unvacated on the records of the court.  At the January term, 1851, the applications to the court in both cases were decided, and they are reported in the 1st <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:California Reports, at pages 189 and 190.  In the attachment case, the court denied the application on the ground that no motion had been made by us or any one on our behalf to cause the original order of expulsion to be vacated, and that the Judge had, in the proceedings to expel us, substantially recognized us as re-instated.  In the other case, the court decided that the proceedings to re-expel us were irregular, and directed an alternative writ to issue, commanding the Judge to vacate the order and to permit us to practice in all the courts of the district, or to show cause to the contrary, at the next term.  No cause was ever shown; and thus ended the attempts of an ignorant, malicious, and brutal judge to keep us out of the profession of our choice.  Mr. Goodwin has since held many positions of honor and trust in the State.  He was elected District Attorney at the same time that I was elected to the Legislature, and afterwards was Judge of Yuba County, and is now (1877) a member of the State Senate.  Mr. Mulford was afterwards and until his death a successful practitioner at the bar of Marysville, and was in all the affairs of life respected as a high-spirited and honorable man.</p><P>But with Judge Turner I have not yet done.  I have a long story still to relate with respect to him.  After my election to the Legislature was ascertained, he became exceedingly solicitous to prevent in advance my exerting any influence in it.  He expected that I would attack him, and endeavor to secure his impeachment, and he wanted to break me down if possible.  He accordingly published <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:a pamphlet purporting to be a statement of the charges that I preferred against him, which was, however, little else than a tirade of low abuse of myself and the editor of the Marysville Herald, in the columns of which the conduct of the Judge had been the subject of just criticism and censure.  There was nothing in the miserable swaggering billingsgate of the publication which merited a moment's notice, but as in one passage he stated that he had attempted to chastise me with a whip, and that I had fled to avoid him, I published in the Marysville Herald the following card:</p><P>A CARD,</p><P>Judge William R. Turner, in a "statement" published over his signature on the 12th instant, asserts that he attempted to chastise me with a switch, and that I fled to avoid him.  This assertion is a <HI REND="italics">shameless lie</HI>
114.sgm:.  I never, to my recollection, saw Judge Turner with a switch or a whip in his hand.  He has made, as I am informed, many threats of taking personal vengeance on myself, but he has never attempted to put any of them into execution.  I have never avoided him, but on the contrary have passed him in the street almost every day for the last four months.  When he attempts to carry any of his threats into execution, I trust that I shall not forget, at the time, what is due to myself.</p><P>Judge Turner says he holds himself personally responsible in and under all circumstances.  This he says <HI REND="italics">in print</HI>
114.sgm:; but it is well understood in this place that he has stated he should feel bound by his oath of office to endeavor to obtain an indictment against any gentleman who should attempt to call him to account.  Shielded behind his oath of office he has displayed his character by childish boasts of personal courage and idle threats of vengeance.</p><P>STEPHEN J. FIELD.</p><P>MARYSVILLE, <HI REND="italics">Dec</HI>
114.sgm:. 21 <HI REND="italics">st</HI>
114.sgm:, 1850.</p><P>There were also annexed to the publication of Turner, letters from different persons expressive of their opinion of his general bearing on the bench and courtesy to them.  Among these was one from John T. McCarty, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:candidate against me at the recent election, in which he spoke in high terms of the Judge's conduct on the bench, and assailed me as his calumniator, applying to me sundry coarse epithets.  In answer to this letter I published in the Herald the following card:</p><P>JOHN T. MCCARTY.</p><P>John T. McCarty, in a letter to Judge William R. Turner, dated the 22d of November, takes occasion to apply several vile epithets to myself, and uses the following language to Judge Turner: "Having been present at the first term of your court ever held in this district, and most of your courts since that time, and being familiar with almost every decision and your entire conduct upon the bench, I take pleasure in saying that I never have practiced before any court where there was so great a dispatch of business, so much order and general satisfaction rendered by the rules and decisions of the court, and that, notwithstanding the base denunciations of your enemies, a large majority of the people who have attended your courts approve and sustain your positions and decisions."</p><P>During the session of the District Court, at its first term, this same John T. McCarty was called before the County Judge to give his testimony on the return of a writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
114.sgm:, and then he testified " <HI REND="italics">that the conduct of Judge Turner on the bench was the most outrageous he had ever witnessed in any court in which he had practiced;" and the tenor and effect of his whole testimony was in the highest degree condemnatory of the conduct of Judge Turner</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>One of two things follows: If the statement in the letter be true, then John T. McCarty was guilty of perjury before the County Judge; but if he testified to the truth, then his statement in the letter is false.  In the one case he is a liar and in the other a perjured scoundrel.  Thus convicted out of his own mouth, his vile epithets respecting myself are not worth a moment's consideration.</p><P>STEPHEN J. FIELD.</p><P>MARYSVILLE, <HI REND="italics">Dec</HI>
114.sgm:. 21 <HI REND="italics">st</HI>
114.sgm:, 1850.</p><P>On my return from the Legislature, and afterwards, this same McCarty was in my presence the most abject and humble wretch I knew in Marysville.  He almost piteously begged recognition by me, and was ready to go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:down on his knees for it.  He was a blustering miscreant, full of courage where no force was required, and ready to run at the first appearance of a fight.  He was one of a class, all of whom are alike, in whom bluster, toadyism, and pusillanimity go in concert, and are about equally developed in degree.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LIFE IN THE LEGISLATURE.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>IMMEDIATELY after the election I commenced the preparation of a bill relating to the courts and judicial officers of the State, intending to present it early in the session.  The Legislature met at San Jose&acute; on the first Monday of January, 1851, and I was placed on the Judiciary Committee of the House.  My first business was to call the attention of the Committee to the bill I had drawn.  It met their approval, was reported with a favorable recommendation, and after a full discussion was passed.  Its principal provisions remained in force for many years, and most of them are retained in the Code, which went into effect in January, 1873.  It created eleven judicial districts and defined the jurisdiction and powers of every judicial officer in the State, from a Supreme Judge to a Justice of the Peace.  It provided that the then incumbent District Judges should continue to be the Judges of the new Districts according to their respective numbers.  At the same time I introduced a bill dividing the county of Trinity, and creating that of Klamath; and also a bill dividing the county of Yuba, and creating that of Nevada; and I so arranged it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:that out of Trinity and Klamath a new Eighth Judicial District was created, and out of Yuba, Nevada, and Sutter a Tenth Judicial District.  Thus Turner, being Judge of the Eighth District, was sent to the then comparative wilderness of Trinity and Klamath; and the Tenth District was to have a new judge.  After this bill was passed I presented petitions from the citizens of Yuba County, and of that part which now constitutes Nevada County, praying for the impeachment of Turner, and his removal from office, charging as grounds for it his incompetency from ignorance to discharge its duties, his arbitrary and tyrannical conduct towards the County Judge and members of the Marysville bar, the particulars of which I have related, his contemptuous treatment of the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
114.sgm:, and his general immoral conduct.</p><P>A committee was thereupon appointed to which the petitions were referred, with power to send for persons and papers.  The testimony taken by them fully established the charges preferred.  Indeed, there was no serious attempt made to refute them.  The only evidence offered in behalf of the Judge was that of a few persons who testified that they had been treated by him with courtesy in some instances and that good order had been maintained in court when they were present.  There is no doubt that the impeachment would have been ordered but for a strong desire of the members to bring the session to a close, and a report which had obtained credence, that after the passage of the court bill, by which Turner was sent out of the eighth district, I was content to let the question of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:impeachment be indefinitely postponed.  The testimony taken was reported by the Committee on the 15th of April.  His impeachment would have required a trial by the Senate, which would have prolonged the session at least a month, and to this members were much averse.  Parties came to me and said, "Judge, what's the use of pressing this matter.  You have sent Turner where there are only grizzly bears and Indians; why not let him remain there?  He can do no harm there."  I replied that he was not fit to be a judge anywhere, and I refused assent to a postponement of the matter.  Afterwards, when the vote was about to be taken, a Senator and a personal friend of Turner, misinterpreting some expressions of mine that I desired to bring the matter to a speedy close, privately stated to members of the House that I had declared myself satisfied by the passage of the court bill and was willing to let the impeachment be dropped, it being understood that this course would not be taken as a sanction of the Judge's conduct.  To my astonishment, members who had said only half an hour before that they should vote for the impeachment now voted for an indefinite postponement, which was carried by three votes--fifteen to twelve.  I did not vote, and three members who strongly favored the impeachment were absent at the time.  Seven of the members who voted for the indefinite postponement afterwards informed me that they had done so under the impression that such a disposition of the matter would be satisfactory to me, and that if a direct vote had been taken on the charges they should have voted for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:impeachment.  Here the matter ended; I did not pursue it.  Turner him.<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">See Exhibit H, in Appendix.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>To understand fully the legislation with which I was connected, and its effect upon the State, one must be familiar with the history of the country and the condition of its people.  In addition to the act concerning the courts and judicial officers referred to, I took up the Code of Civil Procedure, as reported by the Commissioners in New York, remodelled it so as to adapt it to the different condition of things and the different organization of the courts in California, and secured its passage.  It became what was known as the California Civil Practice Act, and was afterwards adopted in Nevada and in the Territories west of the Rocky Mountains.</p><P>I also took up the Code of Criminal Procedure, as reported by the same Commissioners, and remodelled that in the same way and secured its passage.  It constituted what was afterwards known as the California Criminal Practice Act, and was also adopted in the State and Territories mentioned.  The amount of labor bestowed upon these acts will be appreciated when I state that I recast, in the two, over three hundred sections, and added over one hundred new ones.  I devoted so much attention and earnestness to the work, that in a short time the Legislature placed implicit confidence in everything relating to the judiciary which I recommended.  The Criminal Practice Act, for instance, remodelled as stated, consisting of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:over six hundred sections, was never read before the Legislature at all.  The rules were suspended and the bill read by its title and passed.  When it came before the Governor, on the last day of the session, he said he could not sign it without reading it, and it was too late for him to do that.  I represented to him that its passage was essential to secure the harmonious working of laws already passed.  Turning to me he said, "You say it is all right?"  I replied, "Yes;" and thereupon he signed it.</p><P>I have already stated that I moved Turner's impeachment.  After the testimony was taken I addressed the House upon the subject.  In reply to my remarks a member, by the name of B.F. Moore, from Tuolumne County, took occasion to make an abusive attack on me.  It was the common practice in those days to go armed.  Of the thirty-six members of which the Assembly then consisted, over two-thirds never made their appearance without having knives or pistols upon their persons, and frequently both.  It was a thing of every-day occurrence for a member, when he entered the House, before taking his seat, to take off his pistols and lay them in the drawer of his desk.  He did it with as little concern and as much a matter of course, as he took off his hat and hung it up.  Nor did such a thing excite surprise or comment.  But when Mr. Moore rose to reply to me, he first ostentatiously opened his drawer, took out his revolvers, cocked them, and laid them in the open drawer before him.  He then launched out into a speech of the most opprobrious language, applying to me offensive epithets, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:frequently interspersing his remarks with the declaration that he was responsible for what he said, both there and elsewhere.  It is difficult for me to describe the indignation I felt at this outrageous assault and the manner in which it was made.  Its very fierceness made me calm, as it is said that a tempest at sea is sometimes so violent as to still the waves.  So when I came to make my rejoinder, I answered only such portions of his speech as attempted argument, and made no allusion to the personal language he had used toward me.  But as soon as the vote was had on the question of postponing the impeachment, I took measures to call him to account.  For this purpose I applied to Mr. Samuel A. Merritt, a member from Mariposa County, to carry a note from me to him, calling upon him to apologize for his offensive conduct or give me the satisfaction which it was understood one gentleman had the right to demand from another.</p><P>At that time it was generally supposed that the constitutional provision in regard to duelling was self-operative, and that any person who either sent or accepted a challenge, or acted as a second to one who thus offended, would <HI REND="italics">ipso facto</HI>
114.sgm: be disqualified from afterwards holding any public office.  Upon this understanding of the law, Mr. Merritt, with many expressions of regard for me and regret at the law, declined to carry the note.  I then applied to Mr. Richardson, also a member, but he declined for the same reason.  I was afraid, as matters stood, that I could not get anybody to act for me, and I did not know to whom to apply or what to do.  Whilst thinking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the matter over, I happened, about nine o'clock in the evening, to walk into the Senate Chamber, and there found Mr. David C. Broderick, afterwards United States Senator, sitting at his desk writing.  He was at that time President <HI REND="italics">pro tem</HI>
114.sgm:. of the Senate.  I had known him for some time, but not intimately; we were merely bowing acquaintances.  As I entered he looked up and said, "Why, Judge, you don't look well, what is the matter?"  I answered that I did not feel well, for I had not a friend in the world.  He replied, "What is it that worries you?"  I then related to him everything that had happened, giving the particulars of the gross and violent assault upon my character, and stated that I was determined, at all hazards, to call Moore to an account.  Mr. Broderick, without hesitation, said, "My dear Field, I will be your friend in this matter; go and write at once a note to Moore, and I will deliver it myself."  I accordingly sat down at an adjoining desk and wrote him a note, the purport of which was that I required him either to make a public retraction of his insulting language in the Legislature, or to give me the satisfaction I had a right to demand.  Broderick approved of its terms and at once proceeded to deliver it.</p><P>When he called on Moore and presented it, the latter said he expected to be a candidate for Congress before the coming convention, and he could not accept a challenge because it would disqualify him under the constitution from holding the office.  But at the same time he observed that he was willing to meet me at any time and place; in other words, that he had no objection to a street fight.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:Broderick replied that a street fight was not exactly the thing among gentlemen; but that if Moore would do no better, a street fight there should be; and thereupon named a time and place when and where I would be found the next morning.  Within an hour afterwards Moore changed his mind, and informed Mr. Broderick that Drury Baldwin, another member of the House, would act as his friend, and give a reply to my note the next morning.</p><P>In anticipation of a possible collision, Mr. Broderick took me out early the following morning to try my skill in the use of a pistol.  I tried a navy revolver and succeeded in hitting a knot on a tree, at a distance of thirty yards, three times out of five.  Broderick declared himself satisfied, and I then urged upon him the necessity of bringing the matter to a speedy issue.  In all this he concurred, and before the meeting of the House, called upon Baldwin for an answer to my note.  Baldwin replied that his principal had made up his mind to do nothing further in the matter.  "Then," said Broderick, "as soon as the House meets, Judge Field will rise in his seat and refer to the attack on him and to the language of Moore, that he held himself responsible for what he said, and state that respect for the dignity of the House had prevented him from replying to the attack at the time in the terms it deserved; that he had since demanded satisfaction of Moore for his language, and that Moore had refused to respond, and will thereupon pronounce him a liar and a coward."  "Then," said Baldwin, "Judge Field will get shot in his seat."  "In that case," rejoined Broderick, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:"there will be others shot too."  Mr. Broderick soon afterwards informed me of his conversation with Baldwin, and asked me if I would act as he had stated I would.  "Most certainly," I replied; "never fear for me; I will meet the case as it should be met."  Accordingly, when the House opened, I took my seat at my desk as usual.  Looking around I saw that Broderick was seated near me, and behind him were eight or nine of his personal friends, all armed to the teeth and ready for any emergency.  In the meantime, and just before the House met, General John E. Addison, who had found out what was going on and knew the seriousness of the affair, called on Moore, who was his friend, and urged him to retract what he had said and make a suitable apology, and for that purpose drew up a document for him to read to the House, but of this I was not at the time informed.  As soon as the journal was read I rose in my seat and said, "Mr. Speaker."  At the same moment Moore rose in his seat and said, "Mr. Speaker."  The Speaker recognized Moore first; and Moore thereupon proceeded to read the written apology prepared by Addison for his conduct and language to me.  It was full, ample, and satisfactory; and of course with that the matter ended.  From that time forward to the end of the session I had no further trouble with any one.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIENDSHIP FOR DAVID C. BRODERICK.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>THE narrative which I have given of my difficulty with Moore explains how Broderick befriended me at a very trying time.  But that was not the only occasion on which he befriended me.  When I came to San Francisco after the adjournment of the Legislature, in May, 1851, I went several times to see him at the hotel where he stopped.  On one occasion in the evening, while we were in the saloon of the hotel, he asked me to take a glass of wine with him.  We stepped up to the bar and were about drinking, when he suddenly threw himself before me and with great violence pushed me out of the room.  The proceeding was so sudden and unexpected that I was astonished and for a moment indignant.  I demanded an explanation, saying "What does this mean, Mr. Broderick?"  He then told me that while we were standing at the bar he had noticed Vi.--or to give his full name, Vicesimus--Turner, a brother of the Judge, a man of desperate character, come into the bar-room, throw back his Spanish cloak, draw forth a navy revolver, and level it at me.  Seeing the movement, he had thrown himself between me and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:desperado and carried me off.  These good offices on the part of Mr. Broderick filled me with a profound sense of gratitude.  For years afterwards I thought and felt as if there was nothing I could do that would be a sufficient return for his kindness.  On his account I took much greater interest in political matters than I otherwise should.  In order to aid him in his aspirations for election to the United States Senate, upon which he had set his heart, I attended conventions and gave liberally, often to my great inconvenience, to assist the side to which he belonged.  To many persons it was a matter of surprise that I should take such an interest in his success and through good and evil report remain so constant and determined in my support of him; but the explanation lies in the circumstances I have narrated and the brave manner in which he had stood by me in a most critical moment of my life.</p><P>I regret to state that this friendship was ever broken.  It was not by me; but broken it was.  Shortly after Mr. Broderick was elected to the Senate, he quarrelled with Mr. Buchanan over appointments to office in California; and when he returned to the State, he expressed a good deal of hostility to the Administration.  In that hostility I did not participate, and he complained of me for that reason.  I was then spoken of throughout the State as a probable candidate for the bench, and he announced his opposition to my nomination.  I made no complaints of his conduct, but was much hurt by it.  My nomination and election soon afterwards removed me from the sphere of politics.  I seldom met him after my election, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:never had any conversation with him.  Though he was offended at my failure to take sides with him in his controversy with the President, and our intimacy ceased, I could never forget his generous conduct to me; and for his sad death there was no more sincere mourner in the State.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LEGISLATION SECURED AND BEGINNING A NEW LIFE.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>MY legislative career was not without good results.  I drew, as already stated, and carried through the Legislature a bill defining the powers and jurisdiction of the courts and judicial officers of the State; and whilst thus doing good, I also got rid of the ignorant and brutal judge of our district who had outraged my rights, assaulted my character, and threatened my life.  I also, as I have mentioned, introduced bills regulating the procedure in civil and criminal cases, remodelled with many changes from the Codes of Civil and Criminal Procedure reported by the Commissioners of New York; and secured their passage.</p><P>In the Civil Practice Act I incorporated provisions making the most liberal exemptions from forced sale of the personal property of a debtor, including not merely a limited amount of household furniture, and provisions sufficient for individual or family use for one month, but also the instruments or tools by which he earned his livelihood.  The exemptions embraced necessary house-hold and kitchen furniture, wearing apparel, beds and bedding of the debtor, whatever his calling; and also <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the farming utensils and implements of husbandry of the farmer, two beasts of burden employed by him, and one cart or wagon; the tools and implements of a mechanic or artisan necessary to carry on his trade; the instruments and chests of a surgeon, physician, surveyor, and dentist; the law libraries of an attorney and counsellor; the cabin or dwelling of a miner, and his pick, rocker, wheelbarrow, and other implements necessary to carry on mining operations; two oxen, two horses or two mules and their harness, and one cart or wagon of the cartman, hackman, or teamster; and one horse with vehicle and harness and other equipments used by a physician, surgeon, or minister of the gospel in making his professional visits; and all arms and accoutrements required by law to be kept by any person.</p><P>I never could appreciate the wisdom of that legislation which would allow a poor debtor to be stripped of all needed articles of his household and of the implements by which alone he could earn the means of supporting himself and family and of ultimately discharging his obligations.  It has always seemed to me that an exemption from forced sale of a limited amount of household and kitchen furniture of the debtor, and of the implements used in his trade or profession, was not only the dictate of humanity, but of sound policy.</p><P>I also incorporated a provision into the Civil Practice Act respecting suits for mining claims, which was the foundation of the jurisprudence respecting mines in the country.  The provision was that in actions before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:magistrates for such claims, evidence should be admitted of the usages, regulations, and customs prevailing in the vicinity, and that such usages, regulations, and customs, when not in conflict with the constitution and laws of the State, or of the United States, should govern the decision of the action.  At this time suits for mining claims, the mines being confessedly on the property of the United States, were brought upon an alleged forcible or unlawful detainer.  This rule, thus for the first time adopted by legislative enactment, was soon extended to actions for such claims in all courts, and has since been adopted in all the States and Territories west of the Rocky Mountains and substantially by the legislation of Congress.  Simple as the provision is, it solved a difficult problem.</p><P>I also advocated and aided the passage of the Homestead Exemption Bill.  That bill was introduced by Mr. G. D. Hall, a member from El Dorado, and now a resident of San Francisco.  It provided for an exemption of the homestead to the value of $5,000.  An effort was made to reduce the amount to $3,000, and I think I rendered some aid in defeating this reduction, which has always been to me a source of great gratification.</p><P>I also secured the passage of an act concerning attorneys and counsellors-at-law, in which I incorporated provisions that rendered it impossible for any judge to disbar an attorney in the arbitrary manner in which Judge Turner had acted towards me, without notice of the charges against him and affording him an opportunity to be heard upon them.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>I also introduced a bill creating the counties of Nevada and Klamath, the provisions of which were afterwards incorporated into a general bill which was passed, dividing the State into counties and establishing the seats of justice therein, and by which also the county of Placer was created.</p><P>I drafted and secured the passage of an act concerning county sheriffs, in which the duties and responsibilities of those officers, not only in the execution of process and the detention of prisoners, but as keepers of the county jail, were declared and defined; also an act concerning county recorders, in which the present system of keeping records was adopted.  This latter act, though drawn by me, was introduced by Mr. Merritt, of Mariposa, but he does not hesitate to speak publicly of my authorship of it.  I also prepared a bill concerning divorces, which was reported from the Judiciary Committee as a substitute for the one presented by Mr. Carr, of San Francisco, and was passed.  In this act, aside from the ordinary causes of adultery, and consent obtained by force or fraud, for which divorces are granted, I made extreme cruelty and habitual intemperance, willful desertion of either husband or wife for a period of two years, and willful neglect of the husband to provide for the wife the common necessaries of life, having the ability to provide the same, for a period of three years, also causes of divorce.  I also drew the charters of the cities of Marysville, Nevada, and Monterey, which were adopted--that of Monterey being reported by the Judiciary Committee as a substitute for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:one introduced by a member from that district.  Other bills drawn or supported by me were passed, the provisions of which are still retained in the laws of the State.</p><P>But notwithstanding all this, when I turned my face towards Marysville I was, in a pecuniary sense, ruined.  I had barely the means to pay my passage home.  My ventures, after my expulsion from the bar, in June, 1850, had proved so many maelstroms into which investments were not only drawn but swallowed up.  My affairs had got to such a pass that before I left Marysville for the Legislature I felt it to be my duty to transfer all my real property to trustees to pay my debts, and I did so.  And now when I stepped upon the landing in Marysville my whole available means consisted of eighteen and three-quarter cents, and I owed about eighteen thousand dollars, the whole of which bore interest at the rate of ten per cent. a month.  I proceeded at once to the United States Hotel, kept by a Mr. Peck, who had known me in the days of my good fortune.  "My dear Mr. Peck," I said, "will you trust me for two weeks' board?"  "Yes," was the reply, "and for as long as you want."  "Will you also send for my trunks on the steamer, for I have not the money to pay the carman."  "Certainly," the good man added, and so the trunks were brought up.  On the next day I looked around for quarters.  I found a small house, thirty feet by sixteen, for an office, at eighty dollars a month, and took it.  It had a small loft or garret, in which I placed a cot that I had purchased upon credit.  Upon this cot I spread a pair of blankets, and used my valise for a pillow.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:secured a chair without a back for a washstand, and with a tin basin, a pail, a piece of soap, a toothbrush, a comb, and a few towels, I was rigged out.  I brought myself each day the water I needed from a well near by.  I had an old pine table and a cane-bottomed sofa, and with these and the bills which had passed the Legislature, corrected as they became laws, and the statutes of the previous session, I put out my sign as an attorney and counsellor-at-law, and began the practice of my profession.</p><P>Soon afterwards I found my name mentioned as a candidate for the State Senate.  The idea of returning to the Legislature as a Senator pleased me.  The people of the county seemed to favor the suggestion.  Accordingly I made a short visit to neighboring precincts, and finding my candidacy generally approved I went to work to make it successful.  At the election of delegates to the county convention, which was to nominate candidates, a majority was returned in my favor.  Several of them being unable to attend the convention, which was to be held at Downieville, a distance of about seventy miles from Marysville, sent me their proxies made out in blank to be filled with the name of any one whom I might designate.  To one supposed friend I gave ten proxies, to another five, and to a third two.  When the members met, just previous to the assembling of the convention, it was generally conceded that I had a majority of the delegates.  But I had a new lesson in manipulation to learn.  Just before the opening of the convention my supposed friend, who had the ten proxies, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:approached by the other side, and by promises to give the office of sheriff to his partner--an office supposed to be worth thirty thousand a year--his ten votes were secured for my opponent.  The one to whom I had given five proxies was promised for those votes the county judgeship.  So when the convention voted, to my astonishment and that of my friends, fifteen of my proxies were cast for my opponent, Joseph C. McKibbin, afterwards a member of Congress, who acted so fearlessly when the Kansas question came up.  I was accordingly beaten by two votes.</p><P>For the moment I was furious, and hunted up the man who had held my ten proxies, and had been seduced from my support.  When I found him in the room of the convention, I seized him and attempted to throw him out of the window.  I succeeded in getting half his body out, when bystanders pulled me back and separated us.  This was fortunate for both of us; for just underneath the window there was a well or shaft sunk fifty feet deep.  The following morning I left Downieville, returned to my office and loft at Marysville, and gave my attention to the practice of the law.  My business soon became very large; and, as my expenses were moderate, within two years and a half I paid off all my indebtedness, amounting with the accumulations of interest to over thirty-eight thousand dollars.  Part of this amount was paid by a surrender of the property mortgaged, or a sale of that previously assigned, but the greater part came from my earnings.  I paid every creditor but one in full; to each I gave his pound of flesh, I mean his interest, at ten per <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:cent. a month.  I never asked one of them to take less than the stipulated rate.  The exceptional creditor was Mr. Berry, a brother lawyer, who refused to receive more than five per cent. a month on a note he held for $450.  By this time I had become so much interested in my profession as to have no inclination for office of any kind.  On several occasions I was requested by influential party leaders to accept a nomination for the State Senate, but I refused.  I am inclined to think that I had for some time a more lucrative practice than any lawyer in the State, outside of San Francisco.  No such fees, however, were paid in those days as have been common in mining cases since the discovery of the silver mines of Nevada and the organization of great corporations to develop them.</p><P>The Bar of Marysville during this period, and afterwards while I remained in that city--which was until October, 1857--was a small, but a very able body of men.  Many of its members have since attained distinction and held offices of honor and trust.  Richard S. Mesick, who settled there in 1851, became a State Senator, and after his removal to Nevada, a District Judge of that State.  He ranks now among the ablest lawyers of the Coast.  Charles H. Bryan, who settled there the same year, was an eloquent speaker, and in his forensic contests gave great trouble to his opponent whenever he got at the jury.  He was on the Supreme Court of the State for a short period, under the appointment of Governor Bigler.  Jesse O. Goodwin, of whom I have already spoken, settled in Marysville in 1850.  He was a ready speaker, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:sometimes rose to genuine eloquence.  He was distinguished in criminal cases.  As already stated, he was elected District Attorney in 1850, and afterwards became County Judge, and is now State Senator.  Gabriel N. Swezy; who settled there in 1850, was learned in his profession, and quick of apprehension.  Few lawyers could equal him in the preparation of a brief.  He afterwards at different times represented the county in the Assembly and the Senate of the State.  William Walker, who afterwards figured so conspicuously in the filibustering expeditions to Nicaragua, and was called by his followers "the grey-eyed man of destiny," had an office in Marysville in 1851 and '52.  He was a brilliant speaker, and possessed a sharp but not a very profound intellect.  He often perplexed both court and jury with his subtleties, but seldom convinced either.  John V. Berry, who came to Marysville from the mines in 1851, was a fine lawyer, deeply read in the law of adjudged cases.  He died in 1853 from poison given to him in mistake by a druggist.  Edward D. Wheeler, who came there in 1850, and Thomas B. Reardon, who came in 1853, were both men of strong minds.  Mr. Wheeler represented Yuba County at one time in the Senate, and is now the District Judge of the Nineteenth District, at San Francisco.  He is regarded as among the ablest and best of the State Judges.  Mr. Reardon has been a District Judge for some years in the Fourteenth District, greatly respected by the profession for his ability and learning.  Isaac S. Belcher, who came to Marysville at a later period--in 1855, I believe--was noted for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:his quiet manners and studious habits.  He has since been District Judge, and has worthily filled a seat on the bench of the Supreme Court of the State, where he was greatly respected by his associates and members of the bar.  Edward C. Marshall, the brilliant orator, who at one time represented the State in Congress, had his office in Marysville in 1855 and '56.  He occasionally appeared in court, though he was generally occupied in politics, and in his case, as in nearly all others, the practice of the law and the occupation of politics did not always move harmoniously together.</p><P>Charles E. Filkins, afterwards County Judge; Charles Lindley, afterwards also County Judge and one of the Code Commissioners; Henry P. Haun, the first County Judge, and afterwards appointed to the United States Senate by Governor Weller; N. E. Whitesides, afterwards a member of the Legislature from Yuba, and Speaker of the House; F. L. Hatch, now County Judge of Colusa; George Rowe, afterwards Treasurer of the County; and Wm. S. Belcher, who afterwards rendered good service to the public as a School Commissioner, also practiced at the Marysville bar with success.</p><P>Charles E. DeLong, afterwards a member of the State Senate, and our Minister to Japan, and Henry K. Mitchell, afterwards a nominee of the Democrats for the U.S. Senate in Nevada, were just getting a good position at the bar when I left, and gave evidence of the ability which they afterwards exhibited.  Others might be named who held fine positions in the profession.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>These mentioned show a bar of great respectability, and I may add that its members were, with few exceptions, gentlemen of general information and courteous manners.  The litigation which chiefly occupied them and gave the largest remuneration related to mines and mining claims.  The enforcement of mortgages and collection of debts was generally--by me, at least--entrusted to clerks, unless a contest was made upon them.</p><P>There was one case which I recall with pleasure, because of the result obtained in face of unconcealed bribery on the other side.  The subject of the suit was the right to a "placer" mine in Yuba River, at Park's Bar.  Its value may be estimated from the fact that within two or three weeks after the decision of the case, the owners took from the mine over ninety thousand dollars in gold dust.  The suit was brought before a justice of the peace, and was for an alleged forcible entry and detainer, a form of action generally adopted at the time for the recovery of mining claims, because the title to the lands in which the mines were found was in the United States.  It was prosecuted as a purely possessory action.  The constable whose duty it was to summon the jurors had received the sum of two hundred dollars to summon certain parties, named by the other side.  This fact was established beyond controversy by evidence placed in my hands.  And whilst I was in bed in one of the tents or canvass sheds at the Bar, which the people occupied in the absence of more substantial buildings, I heard a conversation in the adjoining room--I could not help hearing it, as it was carried on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:without any attempt at concealment, and the room was only separated from me by the canvass--between one of the jurors and one of the opposite party, in which the juror assured the party that it was "all right," and he need not worry as to the result of the suit; his side would have the verdict; the jury were all that way.  On the next day, when the case was summed up, the saloon in which the trial was had was crowded with spectators, most of whom were partisans of the other side.  I addressed the jury for over three hours, and after having commented upon the evidence at length and shown conclusively, as I thought, that my client was entitled to a verdict, I said substantially as follows: "Gentlemen, we have not endeavored to influence your judgment except by the evidence; we have not approached you secretly and tried to control your verdict; we have relied solely upon the law and the evidence to maintain our rights to this property.  But the other side have not thus acted; they have not been content that you should weigh only the evidence; they have endeavored to corrupt your minds and pervert your judgments; they have said that you were so low and debased that although you had with uplifted hands declared that so might the ever-living God help you, as you rendered a verdict according to the evidence, you were willing, to please them, to decide against the evidence, and let perjury rest on your souls.  I know that you [pointing to one of the jurors] have been approached.  Did you spurn the wretch away who made a corrupt proposal to you, or did you hold counsel, sweet counsel with him?  I know that you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:[pointing to another juror] talked over this case with one of the other side at the house on the hill last night, for I overheard the conversation--the promise made to you and your pledge to him.  In the canvass houses here all rooms are as one; the words uttered in one are voices in all.  You did not dream that any but you two were in the tent; but I was there and overheard the foul bargain."</p><P>At this thrust there was great excitement, and click, click, was heard all through the room, which showed a general cocking of pistols; for everyone in those days went armed.  I continued: "There is no terror in your pistols, gentlemen; you will not win your case by shooting me; you can win it only in one way--by evidence showing title to the property; you will never win it by bribery or threats of violence.  I charge openly attempted bribery, and if what I say be not true, let the jurors speak out now from their seats.  Attempted bribery, I say--whether it will be successful bribery, will depend upon what may occur hereafter.  If, after invoking the vengeance of Heaven upon their souls should they not render a verdict according to the evidence, the jurors are willing to sell their souls, let them decide against us."</p><P>This home-thrust produced a great sensation.  It was evident that the jury were disturbed.  When the case was submitted to them, they were absent only a few minutes.  They returned a verdict in our favor.  Some of them afterwards came to me and admitted that they had been corruptly approached, but added that they were not low enough to be influenced in their verdict in that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:way.  "Of course not," I replied; though I had little doubt that it was only the fear of exposure which forced them to do right.</p><P>I have said that in those days everyone went armed; it would be more correct to say that this was true in the mining regions of the State and when travelling.  I, myself, carried a Derringer pistol and a Bowie-knife until the Summer of 1854, though of course out of sight.  I did so by the advice of Judge Mott, of the District Court, who remarked that, though I never abused a witness or a juror, or was discourteous to any one in court, there were desperate men in the country, and no one could know to what extremity they might go, as I would not be deterred by any considerations from the discharge of my whole duty to my clients.  So, until the Summer of 1854, I carried weapons.  And yet they were not such provocatives of difficulty as some of our Eastern friends are accustomed to think.  On the contrary, I found that a knowledge that they were worn generally created a wholesome courtesy of manner and language.</p><P>I continued to occupy my small office and slept in its loft through the Summer and Fall of 1851, and felt quite contented with them.  Twice I was summarily dislodged, being threatened by a fire on the other side of the street.  On one occasion a most ludicrous incident occurred, which I cannot recall without a smile.  A little after midnight we were aroused, on the occasion referred to, by a loud thumping at our door, accompanied by a cry of "fire."  My loft was shared with three others, and at the cry we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:all leaped from our cots and two of our number seizing whatever was convenient and portable carried it out of the house to a distance of about one hundred yards, where were gathered a multitude of people, fleeing before the flames with all sorts of baggage, trunks, chairs, beds, and utensils of every kind which they had brought from their houses.  I hastily threw the papers of sundry suits and a dozen law books, recently purchased, into a box, and with the assistance of the other occupant of my loft, carried it off.  Just as we reached the crowd, a pair of young grizzly bears which the owner had kept in a cage near by were let loose, and they came towards us growling in their peculiar way.  At their sight, there was a general <HI REND="italics">stampede</HI>
114.sgm: of men, women, and children, in all directions.  Boxes and everything else portable were instantly dropped, and such an indiscriminate flight was never before seen except from a panic in battle.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE BARBOUR DIFFICULTY.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>When the bill of 1851, dividing the State into new judicial districts, became a law, there were several candidates for the office of Judge of the Tenth Judicial District, which comprised the counties of Yuba, Nevada, and Sutter.  Henry P. Haun, the County Judge of Yuba, was one candidate; John V. Berry, a lawyer of the same county was another; and Gordon N. Mott, a lawyer of Sutter County, was a third.  My first choice was Berry; but, finding that he had very little chance, I gave what influence I had in favor of Mr. Mott, and he received from the Governor the appointment of Judge of the new district.</p><P>In the Summer of 1851, the Governor issued his proclamation for the Fall elections, and, among others, for an election to fill the office of Judge of the Tenth District.  I had supposed--and there were many others who agreed with me--that Judge Mott's term under his appointment would continue until the election of 1852.  But there being some doubts about the matter and the Governor having issued his proclamation for an election, candidates were nominated by the conventions; and at the ensuing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:election one of them, William T. Barbour, a lawyer of Nevada County, received a majority of the votes cast and was declared elected.  When he came, however, to demand the office, Judge Mott expressed his opinion that there had been no vacancy to be filled and declined to surrender.  This led to a suit between them.  The question involved being exclusively one of law, an agreed case was made up and presented to the Supreme Court, and that tribunal decided in favor of Barbour.  A report of the case is given in the 3d California Reports, under the title of People, ex rel. Barbour, vs. Mott.</p><P>In the case I appeared as counsel for Judge Mott and argued his cause.  This offended Judge Barbour, and he gave free expression to his displeasure.  Afterwards, when his term for the vacancy was about to expire and a new election was to be held, he presented himself as a candidate for a second term.  It was my opinion that he was not qualified for the position, and I therefore recommended my friends to vote for his opponent.  For some weeks previous to the election I was absent from the district; but I returned two days before it was to take place and at once took a decided part against Barbour and did all I could to defeat him.  This action on my part, in connection with my previous zeal in behalf of Judge Mott, led Barbour to make some very bitterly vituperative remarks about me, which being reported to me, I called on him for an explanation.  Some harsh words passed between us at the interview.  The result was that Barbour refused to make any explanation, but gave me a verbal challenge to settle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:our difficulties in the usual way among gentlemen.  I instantly accepted it and designated Judge Mott as my friend.</p><P>In half an hour afterwards Judge Mott was called upon by Mr. Charles S. Fairfax as the friend of Barbour, who stated that Barbour had been challenged by me, and that his object in calling upon Mott was to arrange the terms of a hostile meeting.  Mott answered that he understood the matter somewhat differently; that the challenge, as he had been informed, came from Barbour, and that I, instead of being the challenging, was the accepting party.  Fairfax, however, insisted upon his version of the affair; and upon consulting with Mott, I waived the point and accepted the position assigned me.  Fairfax then stated that Barbour, being the challenged party, had the right to choose the weapons and the time and place of meeting; to all of which Mott assented.  Fairfax then said that, upon consultation with his principal, he had fixed the time for that evening; the place, a room twenty feet square, describing it; the weapons, Colt's revolvers and Bowie-knives; that the two principals so armed were to be placed at opposite sides of the room with their faces to the wall; that they were to turn and fire at the word, then advance and finish the conflict with their knives.  Mott answered that the terms were unusual, unprecedented, and barbarous, and that he could not consent to them.  Fairfax admitted that they were so; but replied that they were those Barbour had prescribed.  He would, however, see Barbour and endeavor to obtain a modification of them.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:Soon afterwards he reported that Barbour still insisted upon the terms first named and would not agree to any other.</p><P>When Mott reported the result of his conference with Fairfax, I at once said that Barbour was a coward and would not fight at all.  I knew perfectly well that such terms could come only from a bully.  I saw that it was a game of bluff he was playing.  So I told Mott to accept them by all means.  Mott accordingly called on Fairfax and accepted the terms as proposed, and gave notice that I would be on hand and ready at the time and place designated.  This being reported to Barbour, Fairfax soon afterwards made his appearance with a message that his principal would waive the Bowie-knives; and not long afterwards he came a second time with another message that it would not do to have the fight in the room designated, because the firing would be heard outside and attract a crowd.  In accordance with my instructions, Mott assented to all the modifications proposed, and it was finally agreed that the meeting should take place the next morning in Sutter County.  I was to take a private conveyance, and Barbour was to take one of the two daily stages that ran to Sacramento.  At a specified place we were to leave our conveyances and walk to a retired spot, which was designated, where the hostile meeting was to take place.</p><P>The next morning, accordingly, I took a carriage, and with my friend Judge Mott drove down to the appointed place.  After we had been there some time the first stage appeared and stopped.  Soon after the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:second stage appeared and stopped, and Judge Barbour and Mr. Fairfax got out.  But instead of proceeding to the designated place, Barbour declared that he was a judicial officer, and as such could not engage in a duel.  At the same time he would take occasion to say that he would protect himself, and, if assaulted, would kill the assailant.  With these words, leaving Fairfax standing where he was, he walked over to the first stage, and mounting rode on to Sacramento.  Seeing Fairfax standing alone on the ground I sent word to him that I would be happy to give him a place in my carriage--an invitation which he accepted, and we then drove to Nicolaus, where we breakfasted, and thence returned to Marysville.<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">See Letter of Judge Mott detailing the particulars of the affair; Exhibit H, in Appendix.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>The conduct of Barbour on the ground, after his fierce and savage terms at the outset, produced a great deal of merriment and derision; and some very sharp squibs appeared in the newspapers.  One of them gave him great annoyance, and he inquired for its author.  I told the editor of the paper in which it appeared that if it was necessary to protect the writer, to give my name, although I did not write it, or know beforehand that it was to be written.</p><P>On the following morning, whilst in front of my office gathering up kindling-wood for a fire, and having my arms full--for each man was his own servant in those days--Barbour came up and, placing a cocked navy revolver near my head, cried out, "Draw and defend <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:yourself."  As I had not observed his approach I was taken by surprise, but turning on him I said, "You infernal scoundrel, you cowardly assassin--you come behind my back and put your revolver to my head and tell me to draw; you haven't the courage to shoot; shoot and be damned."  There were at least ten witnesses of this scene; and it was naturally supposed that having advanced so far he would go farther; but as soon as he found I was not frightened, he turned away and left me.  It is impossible to express the contempt I felt for him at that moment for his dastardly conduct, a feeling which the spectators shared with me, as they have since often stated.<ANCHOR ID="n10-2">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-2">See Exhibit I, in Appendix.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>I do not give these details as having any importance in themselves; but they illustrate the semi-barbarous condition of things in those early days, and by comparison show out of what our existing condition has been evolved, and how far we have advanced.  I give them also for the reason that Barbour afterwards wrote a letter to Turner, which the latter published, referring to the affair, in which he boasted of having given me a "whipping."  How far his boast was warranted the above facts show.</p><P>For a long time afterwards he expressed his bitterness towards me in every possible way.  He did not take Turner's plan of expelling me from the bar; but he manifested his feelings by adverse rulings.  In such cases, however, I generally took an appeal to the Supreme Court, and in nearly all of them procured a reversal.  The result <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:was that he suddenly changed his conduct and commenced ruling the other way.  While this was his policy, there was hardly any position I could take in which he did not rule in my favor.  At last I became alarmed lest I should lose my cases in the appellate court by winning them before him.</p><P>About a year afterwards he sent one of his friends to ask me if I was willing to meet him half-way--stating that my conduct in court had always been courteous, and he was satisfied that he had done me injustice.  I answered that I was always willing to meet any one half-way, but in this case it must be without explanations for the past.  This condition was accepted; accordingly we met, and taking a glass of wine, I said, "Here is to an act of oblivion, but no explanations."  For a long time no allusion was made by either to the old difficulties.  But at last he insisted upon telling me how tales had been brought to him, and how they exasperated him; and he expressed great regret for what had taken place; and to make amends, as far as he was able, for what he had written about me, he sent me the following letter:</p><P>"MARYSVILLE, <HI REND="italics">Dec</HI>
114.sgm:. 22, 1856.</p><P>"Hon. S. J. FIELD.</p><P>"DEAR SIR: On yesterday I learned through our mutual friend Charles S. Fairfax, Esq., that Judge W. R. Turner has recently issued a publication which contains a letter of mine, written him some four years ago.  I have not been able to procure a copy of this publication, and I have entirely forgotten the language used; in truth I do not remember to have written him on the subject of yourself or otherwise; but I suppose I must have done so, and have given expressions of opinion that I have long since ceased to entertain, and to invectives that I have no disposition to justify.  You will recall that, at the time referred to, there unfortunately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:existed between us feelings of deep hostility; and I may at the time have used harsh terms indicative of my then feelings, which I regret and do not now approve, if they are as represented by others.</p><P>"Judge Turner has taken an unwarranted liberty in publishing the letter, be it of what character it may.  He never requested my permission for this purpose, nor did I know that it was his intention.</p><P>"Trusting that this explanation may be satisfactory, I remain,</p><P>"Very respectfully yr. obt. servant,</p><P>"WM. T. BARBOUR."</p><P>He ever afterwards, as occasion offered, spoke of me in the highest terms as a gentleman and lawyer.  My resentment accordingly died out, but I never could feel any great regard for him.  He possessed a fair mind and a kindly disposition, but he was vacillating and indolent.  Moreover, he loved drink and low company.  He served out his second term and afterwards went to Nevada, where his habits became worse, and he sunk so low as to borrow of his acquaintances from day to day small sums--one or two dollars at a time--to get his food and lodging.  He died from the effects of his habits of intemperance.</p><P>In stating the result of the intended hostile meeting with him, I mentioned that when he proceeded on his way to Sacramento, he left his second, Mr. Fairfax, standing alone on the ground, and that I invited the latter to take a seat in my carriage.  From this time the intercourse between Mr. Fairfax and myself became more frequent than it had been previously, and a friendship followed which continued as long as he lived.  He was not sparing in his censure of the conduct of his principal, whilst his language was complimentary of mine.  In a few months I became quite intimate with him, and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:found him possessed of a noble and chivalric spirit.  With great gentleness of manner, he had the most intrepid courage.  His fidelity to his friends and devotion to their interests attached them strongly to him.  He was beloved by all who knew him.  No man in the State was more popular.  He represented the county of Yuba in the Legislature two or three times, and at one session was Speaker of the Assembly.  When the land office at Marysville was established in 1855, he was appointed Register; and in 1856, he was elected Clerk of the Supreme Court of the State.  It was my good fortune to aid him in securing both of these positions.  At my suggestion, Mr. McDougal, a Member of Congress from California, urged the establishment of the land office, and obtained for him the appointment of Register.  In 1856, when he sought the clerkship of the Supreme Court of the State, I became a delegate from Yuba County to the State Convention, and made his nomination for that office my special object, and with the aid of the rest of the delegation, succeeded in obtaining it.</p><P>Two or three incidents which I will relate will illustrate the character of the man.  It was either in the session of 1854 or 1855, I forget which, that a petition was presented to the Assembly of California on the part of some of the colored people of the State, requesting that the laws then in force, which excluded them from being witnesses in cases where a white person was a party, might be repealed so as to allow them to testify in such cases.  At that time there was a great deal of feeling throughout the country <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:on the subject of slavery, and any attempt to legislate in behalf of the colored people was sure to excite opposition, and give rise to suggestions that its promoter was not sound on the slavery question.  The presentation of the petition accordingly stirred up angry feelings.  It created a perfect outburst of indignation, and some one moved that the petition should be thrown out of the window; and the motion was passed almost unanimously.  If I recollect aright, there was but a single vote in the negative.  I was standing by Mr. Fairfax when he was informed of the proceeding.  He at once denounced it, and said, in energetic terms--"This is all wrong--the petition should have been received.  If my horse or my dog could in any way express its wishes to me I would listen to it.  It is a shame that a petition from any one, black or white, should not be received by the Legislature of the State, whether it be granted or not."  I was greatly impressed at that time with the manliness of this expression in a community which looked with suspicion on any movement in favor of extending any rights to the colored race.</p><P>On another occasion, some years afterwards, when I was Judge of the Supreme Court of the State and he was the clerk of the court, there was a good deal of complaint against Harvey Lee, the reporter of the court, who was appointed to the office by Governor Weller.  I believe that Lee was instrumental, but of this I am not certain, in getting a law passed which took the appointment of the reporter from the court and gave it to the Governor.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:was an inferior lawyer, and, of course, had very little practice.  The appointment, therefore, to which a fair salary was attached, was eagerly sought by him.  His reports, however, were so defective that an effort was made by the judges to get the law repealed and have the appointment restored to the court.  This led to a bitter feeling on his part towards the judges, and in a conversation with Mr. Fairfax he gave vent to it in violent language.  Mr. Fairfax resented the attack and an altercation ensued, when Lee, who carried a sword-cane, drew the sword and ran it into Fairfax's body.  Fortunately it entered the chest above the heart.  Withdrawing the sword Lee made a second lunge at Fairfax, which the latter partially avoided so as to receive only a flesh wound in the side.  By this time Fairfax had drawn his pistol and covered the body of Lee, as he was raising his sword for a third thrust.  Lee, seeing the pistol, stepped back and threw up his arms exclaiming, "I am unarmed"--though he had only that moment withdrawn his sword from the body of Fairfax, and it was then dripping with blood.  "Shoot the damned scoundrel," cried the latter's friend, Samuel B. Smith, then standing by his side.  But Fairfax did not shoot.  Looking at Lee, whose body was covered with his pistol, while the blood was trickling from his own person, he said, "You are an assassin! you have murdered me!  I have you in my power! your life is in my hands!"  And gazing on him, he added, "But for the sake of your poor sick wife and children I will spare you."  He thereupon uncocked his pistol and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:handed it to his friend, into whose arms he fell fainting.  He had known the wife of Lee when a young girl; and, afterwards, in speaking of the affair to a friend, he said, "I thought my wife would be a widow before sundown, and I did not wish to leave the world making another."  All California rang with the story of this heroic act.  It has its parallel only in the self-abnegation of the dying hero on the battle-field, who put away from his parched lips the cup of water tendered to him, and directed that it be given to a wounded soldier suffering in agony by his side, saying, "His need is greater than mine."</p><P>During the war his sympathies, as was the case with most Southerners in California, were with his people in Virginia.  He told me on one occasion that he could not but wish they would succeed; but, he said; "Though I am a Virginian by birth, I have adopted California, and whilst I live in a State which has taken her stand with the Northern people, I cannot in honor do anything, and I will not, to weaken her attachment to the Union.  If my health were good I should leave the State and return to Virginia and give my services to her; but, as that is impossible, I shall remain in California, and, whilst here, will not be false to her by anything I do or say."</p><P>These incidents, better than any elaborate description, illustrate the character of the man.  He was a lineal descendant of the great Fairfax family which has figured so conspicuously in the history of England and of Virginia.  He was its tenth Baron in a direct line.  But notwithstanding the rank of his family he was a republican in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:his convictions.  He loved his country and its institutions.  He was himself more noble than his title.  He came East to attend the National Democratic Convention in 1868 at the head of the delegates from California.  After the Convention, he spent some months among his friends and relatives at the old family residence in Maryland.  At this time the seeds of consumption, which had long been lurking in his system, began to be developed, and he was taken down with a severe illness which proved fatal.  He became so ill as to be unable to walk, and was conveyed to Baltimore to procure the best medical attendance; and there he died on the 4th of April, 1869, in the arms of his devoted wife, who had come from California to be with him in his last hours.  His body was brought to Washington and interred within sight of the Capitol, near Rock Creek Church, in which his ancestors had worshipped.</p><P>I have mentioned that when Fairfax was stabbed by Lee he fell into the arms of Mr. Samuel B. Smith.  This gentleman I had known slightly before my difficulty with Judge Barbour; but the intimacy which sprung up between Fairfax and myself, after that affair, brought me more in contact with Mr. Smith, who was his constant companion.  Mr. Smith came to California from New Jersey in 1849, and passed through some stirring scenes during that and the following year.  He came with Mr. John S. Hagar, who was afterwards State Senator, District Judge, and United States Senator, and was engaged with him in the mines in the winter of 1849-'50.  In 1850 he settled in Sutter County; and in the fall of 1852 was elected State <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:Senator from that county.  Having become more intimately acquainted with him after he was elected Senator, I requested him to introduce a bill into the Legislature, revising and amending the one which I had originally drawn concerning the courts and judicial officers of the State; and he cheerfully consented to do so, and took great interest in securing its passage.  Indeed, it was through his influence that the bill became a law.  Many circumstances threw us together after that, and I learned to appreciate his manly character, his generous disposition, and his great devotion to his friends.  Finally, in the fall of 1854, we agreed to form a partnership after my return from the Eastern States, which I then proposed to visit.  After the Barbour affair the course of my professional life was much the same as that of any other lawyer.  My business was large and I gave to it my unremitting attention.  In 1854 I determined to go East to see my parents and brothers and sisters, who had never been out of my mind a single day since I left them in 1849.  Accordingly, I went East, and after passing a few months with them I returned to California in January, 1855.  After that I continued to practice my profession, with Mr. Smith as my partner, until the spring of 1857, though during this period he went to Washington as Commissioner of the State to obtain from Congress the payment of moneys expended by her in suppressing the hostilities of Indians within her borders, and was absent several months.  In April of that year we dissolved our partnership.  A few months afterwards I was nominated for the bench of the Supreme Court of the State, and was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:elected by a large majority.  There were two candidates besides myself for the position and 93,000 votes were polled.  Of these I received a majority of 36,000 over each of my opponents, and 17,000 over them both together.<ANCHOR ID="n10-3">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: The term to which I was elected was for six years, commencing January 1st, 1858.  In September, 1857, Hugh C. Murray, then Chief Justice, died, and Associate Justice Peter H. Burnett was appointed to fill the vacancy.  This left the balance of Judge Burnett's term of service to be filled, and I was urged by the Governor of the State to accept his appointment to it, as it was for less than three months, and immediately preceded my own term.  At first I refused, as I desired to revisit the East; but being assured by the judges that taking the place need not prevent my intended visit, I accepted the appointment, and on the 13th of October, 1857, took my seat on the bench.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-3"><P>The exact vote was as follows:</p><P>For myself<HSEP>55,216</p><P>For Nathaniel Bennett<HSEP>18,944</p><P>For J. P. Ralston<HSEP>19,068</p><P>Total vote<HSEP>93,228</p><P>Majority over Bennett<HSEP>36,272</p><P>Majority over Ralston<HSEP>36,148</p><P>Majority over both<HSEP>17,204</p></NOTE>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>REMOVAL FROM MARYSVILLE.--LIFE ON THE SUPREME BENCH.--END OF JUDGE TURNER.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>THE day following my acceptance of the Governor's appointment to the Supreme Court of the State, I returned to Marysville to close my business before taking up my residence in Sacramento, where the court held its sessions.  I had gone to Sacramento to argue some cases before the court when the appointment was tendered to me; and, of course, did not expect to remain there very long.  In a few days I arranged my affairs at Marysville and then removed permanently to Sacramento.  I left Marysville with many regrets.  I had seen it grow from a collection of tents with a few hundred occupants to a town of substantial buildings with a population of from eight to ten thousand inhabitants.  From a mere landing for steamers it had become one of the most important places for business in the interior of the State.  When I left, it was a depot of merchandise for the country lying north and east of it; and its streets presented a scene of bustle and activity.  Trains of wagons and animals were constantly leaving it with goods for the mines.  Its merchants were generally prosperous; some of them were wealthy.  Its bankers were men of credit throughout the State.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:Steamers plied daily between it and Sacramento, and stages ran to all parts of the country and arrived every hour.  Two daily newspapers were published in it.  Schools were opened and fully attended.  Churches of different denominations were erected and filled with worshippers.  Institutions of benevolence were founded and supported.  A provident city government and a vigorous police preserved order and peace.  Gambling was suppressed or carried on only in secret.  A theatre was built and sustained.  A lecture-room was opened and was always crowded when the topics presented were of public interest.  Substantial stores of brick were put up in the business part of the city; and convenient frame dwellings were constructed for residences in the outskirts, surrounded with plats filled with trees and flowers.  On all sides were seen evidences of an industrious, prosperous, moral, and happy people, possessing and enjoying the comforts, pleasures, and luxuries of life.  And they were as generous as they were prosperous.  Their hearts and their purses were open to all calls of charity.  No one suffering appealed to them in vain.  No one in need was turned away from their doors without having his necessities relieved.  It is many years since I was there, but I have never forgotten and I shall never forget the noble and generous people that I found there in all the walks of life.</p><P>The Supreme Court of the State then consisted of three members, the senior in commission being the Chief Justice.  David S. Terry was the Chief Justice and Peter H. Burnett <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:was the Associate Justice.  Both of these gentlemen have had a conspicuous career in California, and of both I have many interesting anecdotes which would well illustrate their characters and which at some future day I may put upon paper.  They were both men of vigorous minds, of generous natures and of positive wills; but in all other respects they differed as widely as it was possible for two extremes.  Mr. Terry had the virtues and prejudices of men of the extreme South in those days.  His contact and larger experience since with men of the North have no doubt modified many of those prejudices, and his own good sense must have led him to alter some of his previous judgments.  Probably his greatest regret is his duel with Mr. Broderick, as such encounters, when they terminate fatally to one of the parties, never fail to bring life-long bitterness to the survivor.  A wiser mode of settling difficulties between gentlemen has since been adopted in the State; but those who have not lived in a community where the duel is practiced cannot well appreciate the force of the public sentiment which at one time existed, compelling a resort to it when character was assailed.</p><P>Mr. Burnett was one of the early settlers in Oregon, and had held positions of honor and trust there before settling in California.  He came here soon after the discovery of gold, took an interest in public affairs, and was elected the first Governor of the State, when the constitution was adopted.</p><P>Judge Terry resigned his office in September, 1859, when he determined to send a challenge to Mr. Broderick, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:and I succeeded him as Chief Justice; and W. W. Cope, of Amador, was elected to fill the vacant place on the bench.  I was absent from the State at the time, or I should have exerted all the power I possessed by virtue of my office to put a stop to the duel.  I would have held both of the combatants to keep the peace under bonds of so large an amount as to have made them hesitate about taking further steps; and in the meantime I should have set all my energies to work, and called others to my aid, to bring about a reconciliation.  I believe I should have adjusted the difficulty.</p><P>Mr. Cope, who filled the vacant place on the bench, possessed a superior mind and a genial nature.  He made an excellent Judge.  He studiously examined every case and carefully prepared his opinions.  He remained on the bench until January, 1864, when the new constitutional amendments, reorganizing the court, went into effect.  He is now in practice in San Francisco, and has a large clientage.</p><P>Judge Burnett continued in office until the election of his successor in the fall of 1858.  His successor was Joseph G. Baldwin, a lawyer of distinction and a gentleman of literary reputation.  He was the author of "The Flush Times of Alabama and Mississippi," and of "Party Leaders."  The first is a work full of humor and a great favorite in the section of the country whose "times" it portrays with such spirit and glee as to excite roars of laughter in the reader.  The latter is a thoughtful history of the character and influence upon the country of Jefferson, Hamilton, Jackson, Clay, and Randolph.  His <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:portraitures present these men in the fullness and freshness of living beings, whom we see and hear, and whose power we feel.</p><P>My friendship for Mr. Baldwin commenced long before he came to the bench, and it afterwards warmed into the attachment of a brother.  He had a great and generous heart; there was no virtue of humanity of which he did not possess a goodly portion.  He was always brimful of humor, throwing off his jokes, which sparkled without burning, like the flashes of a rocket.  There was no sting in his wit.  You felt as full of merriment at one of his witticisms, made at your expense, as when it was played upon another.  Yet he was a profound lawyer, and some of his opinions are models of style and reasoning.  He remained on the bench until January, 1862, when he was succeeded by Edward Norton, of San Francisco.  This gentleman was the exemplar of a judge of a subordinate court.  He was learned, patient, industrious, and conscientious; but he was not adapted for an appellate tribunal.  He had no confidence in his own unaided judgment.  He wanted some one upon whom to lean.  Oftentimes he would show me the decision of a tribunal of no reputation with apparent delight, if it corresponded with his own views, or with a shrug of painful doubt, if it conflicted with them.  He would look at me in amazement if I told him that the decision was not worth a fig; and would appear utterly bewildered at my waywardness when, as was sometimes the case, I refused to look at it after hearing by what court it was pronounced.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>It is not my purpose to speak of my own career on the Bench of the Supreme Court of California.  It is only for reminiscences of my previous life that you, Mr. Hittell, have asked.<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: I am tempted, however, to hand to you a letter of Judge Baldwin, my associate for over three years, in which he presents, in terms exaggerated by his friendship, the result of my labors there.<ANCHOR ID="n11-2">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1">These sketches were in the main dictated to a short-hand writer at the request of Mr. Theodore H. Hittell, of San Francisco.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-2">The letter is printed at the end of this narrative at page 126.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>There is only one scene to which I wish to refer.</p><P>About a year and a half after I went upon the bench, a contested election case came up from Trinity County.  It appeared that Judge Turner, who had been sent to the district composed of the counties of Trinity and Klamath, by the act concerning the courts and judicial officers of the State, at the end of his term offered himself for re-election as Judge of that district.  When the vote was counted, there appeared to be a majority of one against him, and his opponent was declared elected.  He instituted a contest for the office, and, being defeated in the court below, appealed to the Supreme Court.  He then became very much exercised over his appeal, because I was one of the Justices.  There were not wanting persons who, out of sheer malice, or not comprehending any higher motives of conduct than such as governed themselves, represented that I would improve the opportunity to strike him a blow.</p><P>When his case came on for hearing, I left the bench to my associates, Judges Terry and Baldwin, and they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:decided in his favor.  At this action of mine Turner was amazed.  It was something wholly unexpected and surprising to him.  Soon after the decision he sent one of his friends, named Snowden, to know if I would speak to him if he should make the first advance.  I answered that under no circumstances would I ever consent to speak to him; that he had done me injuries which rendered any intercourse with him impossible; that the world was wide enough for us both, and he must go his own way.  This answer Snowden communicated to him.  The next morning he stationed himself at the foot of the stairway leading up to the Supreme Court rooms, which was on the outside of the building, and, as I passed up, he cried out; "I am now at peace with all the world; if there is any man who feels that I have done him an injury, I am ready to make him amends."  I turned and looked at him for a moment, and then passed on without saying a word.  On the following morning he took the same position and repeated substantially the same language.  I stopped and gazed at him for a moment, and then passed on in silence.  This was the last time I saw him.  He returned to Trinity, and held his office for the balance of his term, six years, under the decision of the Supreme Court, and was reelected in 1863.  But his character and habits unfitted him for a judicial position.  He was addicted to gambling and drinking, and he consorted with the lowest characters; and the same tyrannical temper and conduct which he had exhibited towards me in Marysville, were displayed in his new district.  Accordingly measures <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:were taken by citizens of Trinity to secure his impeachment by the Legislature.  Mr. Westmoreland, a member of the Assembly from that county in 1867 offered a resolution for the appointment of a committee to inquire whether articles of impeachment should be presented against him for high crimes and misdemeanors, with power to send for persons and papers and report articles if warranted by the evidence.  In offering the resolution Mr. Westmoreland charged, that during the time Turner had held the office of District Judge he had been grossly tyrannical; that he had imprisoned citizens, depriving them of their liberty without process of law; that he had neglected and refused to perform the duties incumbent upon him by statute; that by a standing rule he allowed no witness to be called in a case unless he was subpoenaed and in attendance on the first day of the term; that he had used the power of his position for the furtherance of his own ends of private hate; that he was an habitual drunkard, with rare intervals of sobriety, and had upon occasions come into the court-room to sit upon the trial of causes so intoxicated as to be unable to stand, and had fallen helplessly upon the floor, whence he had been removed by officers of the court; that upon one occasion, when engaged in a trial, he had in the presence of jurors, witnesses, and other persons attending the court, deliberately gone out of the court-room and openly entered a house of ill-fame near by; and that by his disgraceful conduct he had become a burden upon the people of that district too grievous to be borne.  These things Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:Westmoreland stated he stood prepared to prove, and he invoked the interposition of the Legislature to protect the people of the Eighth Judicial District who were suffering from the deportment and conduct of this officer.  The resolution was passed.  Finding that articles of impeachment would be presented against him, Turner resigned his office.  After this his habits of drinking became worse, and he was sent to the Asylum for Inebriates, where he died.</p><P>In thinking over my difficulties with Turner at this distant day, there is nothing in my conduct which I in the least regret.  Had I acted differently; had I yielded one inch, I should have lost my self-respect and been for life an abject slave.  There was undoubtedly an unnecessary severity of language in two or three passages of my answers to his attacks; and some portion of my answer in court to his order to show cause why I should not be re-expelled from the bar might better have been omitted.  I have since learned that one is never so strong as when he is calm, and never writes so forcibly as when he uses the simplest language.  My justification in these particulars, if they require any, must be found in the savage ferocity with which I was assailed, the brutal language applied to my character and conduct, and the constant threats made of personal violence.  Malignity and hate, with threats of assassination, followed me like a shadow for months.  I went always armed for protection against assault.  I should have been less or more than man had I preserved at all times perfect calmness either in my language or conduct.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>In the contest with this man I was cheered by the support of the best men of the State.  But of all of them no one aided me so much, and so freely, as the editor of the Marysville Herald, Mr. Robert H. Taylor, a gentleman still living, in the full strength of his intellect, and honored and trusted as a learned member of the legal profession in Nevada.  May length of years and blessings without number attend him.</p><P>Here my narrative of "Personal Experiences" must for the present end.  I could have given you, Mr. Hittell, more interesting matter.  I could have given you sketches of Fremont, Halleck, Gwin, Broderick, Weller, Geary, Sherman, Bigler, McDougal, Bennett, Heydenfeldt, Murray, and others, with many striking anecdotes illustrative of their characters.  They were all remarkable men, and the history of their lives would be full of interest and instruction.  I could have related the story of the Vigilance Committees of 1851 and 1856, and shown how the men of order and virtue acquired and maintained ascendency over the irregular and disorderly elements of society.  I could have told you of the gradual development of the industries of the State until her yearly products have become one of the marvels of the world.  I could have described the wild excitement produced by the supposed discoveries of gold in boundless quantities on Fraser River; and the later but more substantial movement upon the development of the silver mines of Nevada.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:I could have recounted the efforts made in 1860 and 1861 to keep the State in the Union against the movements of the Secessionists, and the communications had with President Lincoln by relays of riders over the Plains.  I could have described the commencement, progress, and completion of the Pacific railroad, and the wonderful energy and unfailing resolution of its constructors.  I could have told you stories without number, full of interest, of the Judges of California, State and Federal, who preceded me on the bench, and of members of the profession; of Hastings, Bennett, Lyons, Wells, Anderson, Heydenfeldt, and Murray, of the State Supreme Court; of Hoffman and McAllister of the Federal bench; of Robinson, Crittenden, Randolph, Williams, Yale, McConnell, Felton, and others of the Bar, now dead, and of some who are at its head, now living; composing as a whole a bar not exceeded in ability, learning, eloquence, and literary culture by that of any other State of the Union.  But you asked me merely for personal reminiscences of occurrences at Marysville and during the days preceding my going there.  I will, therefore, postpone until another occasion a narrative which I think will be more interesting than anything I have here related.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE CAREER OF JUDGE FIELD ON THE SUPREME BENCH OF CALIFORNIA, BY JUDGE JOSEPH G. BALDWIN, HIS ASSOCIATE FOR THREE YEARS.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">From the Sacramento Union, of May 6, 1863</HI>
114.sgm:.]</p><P>"THE resignation by Judge Field of the office of Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of California, to take effect on the 20th instant, has been announced.  By this event the State has been deprived of the ablest jurist who ever presided over her courts.  Judge Field came to California from New York in 1849, and settled in Marysville.  He immediately commenced the practice of law, and rose at once to a high position at the local bar, and upon the organization of the Supreme Court soon commanded a place in the first class of the counsel practicing in that forum.  For many years, and until his promotion to the bench, his practice was as extensive, and probably as remunerative, as that of any lawyer in the State.  He served one or two sessions in the Legislature, and the State is indebted to him for very many of the laws which constitute the body of her legislation.<ANCHOR ID="n12-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: In 1857 he was nominated for Judge of the Supreme Court for a full term, and in October of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the same year was appointed by Governor Johnson to fill the unexpired term of Justice Heydenfeldt, resigned.  He immediately entered upon the office, and has continued ever since to discharge its duties.  Recently, as the reader knows, he was appointed, by the unanimous request of our delegation in Congress, to a seat upon the Bench of the Supreme Court of the United States, and was confirmed, without opposition, by the Senate.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1">He was in the Legislature only one session.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>"Like most men who have risen to distinction in the United States, Judge Field commenced his career without the advantages of wealth, and he prosecuted it without the factitious aids of family influence or patronage.  He had the advantage, however--which served him better than wealth or family influence--of an accomplished education, and careful study and mental discipline.  He brought to the practice of his profession a mind stored with professional learning, and embellished with rare scholarly attainments.  He was distinguished at the bar for his fidelity to his clients, for untiring industry, great care and accuracy in the preparation of his cases, uncommon legal acumen, and extraordinary solidity of judgment.  As an adviser, no man had more the confidence of his clients, for he trusted nothing to chance or accident when certainty could be attained, and felt his way cautiously to his conclusions, which, once reached, rested upon sure foundations, and to which he clung with remarkable pertinacity.  Judges soon learned to repose confidence in his opinions, and he always gave them the strongest proofs of the weight justly due to his conclusions.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>"When he came to the bench, from various unavoidable causes the calendar was crowded with cases involving immense interests, the most important questions, and various and peculiar litigation.  California was then, as now, in the development of her multiform physical resources.  The judges were as much pioneers of law as the people of settlement.  To be sure something had been done, but much had yet to be accomplished; and something, too had to be undone of that which had been done in the feverish and anomalous period that had preceded.  It is safe to say that, even in the experience of new countries hastily settled by heterogeneous crowds of strangers from all countries, no such example of legal or judicial difficulties was ever before presented as has been illustrated in the history of California.  There was no general or common source of jurisprudence.  Law was to be administered almost without a standard.  There was the civil law, as adulterated or modified by Mexican provincialism, usages, and habitudes, for a great part of the litigation; and there was the common law for another part, but <HI REND="italics">what that was</HI>
114.sgm: was to be decided from the conflicting decisions of any number of courts in America and England, and the various and diverse considerations of policy arising from local and other facts.  And then, contracts made elsewhere, and some of them in semi-civilized countries, had to be interpreted here.  Besides all which may be added that large and important interests peculiar to the State existed--mines, ditches, etc.--for which the courts were compelled to frame the law, and make a system out of what was little better than chaos.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>"When, in addition, it is considered that an unprecedented number of contracts, and an amount of business without parallel, had been made and done in hot haste, with the utmost carelessness; that legislation was accomplished in the same way, and presented the crudest and most incongruous materials for construction; that the whole scheme and organization of the government, and the relation of the departments to each other, had to be adjusted by judicial construction--it may well be conceived what task even the ablest jurist would take upon himself when he assumed this office.  It is no small compliment to say that Judge Field entered upon the duties of this great trust with his usual zeal and energy, and that he leaves the office not only with greatly increased reputation, but that he has raised the character of the jurisprudence of the State.  He has more than any other man given tone, consistency, and system to our judicature, and laid broad and deep the foundation of our civil and criminal law.  The land titles of the State--the most important and permanent of the interests of a great commonwealth--have recieved from his hand their permanent protection, and this alone should entitle him to the lasting gratitude of the bar and the people.</p><P>"His opinions, whether for their learning, logic, or diction, will compare favorably, in the judgment of some of our best lawyers, with those of any judge upon the Supreme Bench of the Union.  It is true what he has accomplished has been done with labor; but this is so much more to his praise, for such work was not to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:hastily done, and it was proper that the time spent in perfecting the work should bear some little proportion to the time it should last.  We know it has been said of Judge Field that he is too much of a `case lawyer,' and not sufficiently broad and comprehensive in his views.  This criticism is not just.  It is true he is reverent of authority, and likes to be sustained by precedent; but an examination of his opinions will show that, so far from being a timid copyist, or the passive slave of authority, his rulings rest upon clearly defined principles and strong common sense.</p><P>"He retires from office without a stain upon his ermine.  Millions might have been amassed by venality.  He retires as poor as when he entered, owing nothing and owning little, except the title to the respect of good men, which malignant mendacity cannot wrest from a public officer who has deserved by a long and useful career, the grateful appreciation of his fellow-citizens.  We think that we may safely predict that, in his new place, Justice Field will fulfill the sanguine expectations of his friends."</p><P>J. G .B.</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
114.sgm: 1, 1863.</p><P>In 1855 a circuit court for California was created by Congress, and clothed with the ordinary jurisdiction of the several circuit courts of the United States.  Hon. M. Hall McAllister was appointed its judge.  In January, 1863, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:he resigned and my appointment as his successor was recommended by our Senators.  They telegraphed me what they had done, and I replied that I could not accept the place, that I preferred to remain Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the State than to be a judge of an inferior federal court, but that if a new justice were added to the Supreme Court of the United States, I would accept the office if tendered to me.  Notwithstanding this reply my appointment was urged, and I was nominated by the President.  The Senators have since told me that they pressed my nomination from a belief that another justice would soon be added to the Supreme Court, and that the appointment would be made from the Pacific States, and that if I were circuit judge it would more likely be tendered to me than to any one else.  The interests of those States were so great, and from the character of their land titles, and their mines of gold and silver, were in some respects so different from those of the Eastern States, that it was deemed important to have some one familiar with them on the Supreme Bench of the United States.  Accordingly, while my nomination for circuit judge was pending before the Senate, a bill providing for an additional justice of the Supreme Court, and making the Pacific States a new circuit, was introduced into both Houses of Congress, and on the last day of the session, March 3d, 1863, it became a law.  Soon after the adjournment of Congress, the entire delegation from the Pacific States united in recommending my appointment to the new office.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:The delegation then consisted of four Senators and four Members of the House, of whom five were Democrats and three Republicans; all of them were Union men.  I was accordingly nominated by the President, and the nomination was unanimously confirmed by the Senate.  My commission was signed on the 10th of March, 1863, and forwarded to me.  I did not, however, take the oath of office and enter upon its duties until the 20th of May following.  At the time I received the commission there were many important cases pending in the Supreme Court of California, which had been argued when only myself and one of the associate justices were present.  I thought that these cases should be disposed of before I resigned, as otherwise a re-argument of them would be required, imposing increased expense and delay upon the parties.  I therefore sent my resignation as Chief Justice to the Governor, to take effect on the 20th of May.  I selected that day, as I believed the cases argued could be decided by that time, and because it was the birthday of my father.  I thought it would be gratifying to him to know that on the eighty-second anniversary of his birth his son had become a Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States.  Accordingly on that day I took the oath of office.<ANCHOR ID="n12-2">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-2">Although I had informed the Attorney-General of my action and delay in taking the oath of office, the salary of the office was sent to me from the date of my commission, March 10th, 1863.  I immediately deposited with the sub-treasurer at San Francisco, to the credit of the United States, the proportion for the time between that date and the 20th of May, and informed the Secretary of the Treasury of the deposit, enclosing to him the sub-treasurer's receipt.</NOTE>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE ANNOYANCES OF MY JUDICIAL LIFE.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>After the narrative of my Personal Reminiscences was completed, I concluded to dictate an account of some strange annoyances to which I had been subjected in the course of my judicial life.  The account will have an interest to those of my friends for whom the Reminiscences were printed, and it is intended for their perusal alone.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ROSY VIEWS OF JUDICIAL LIFE GRADUALLY VANISHING--UNSETTLED LAND TITLES OF THE STATE.--ASSERTED OWNERSHIP BY THE STATE OF GOLD AND SILVER FOUND IN THE SOIL.--PRESENT OF A TORPEDO.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>WHEN I went on the bench, I not only entertained elevated notions of the dignity and importance of the judicial office, but looked forward confidently to the respect and honor of the community from a faithful discharge of its duties.  I soon discovered, however, that there would be but little appreciation for conscientious labor on the bench, except from a small number of the legal profession, until after the lapse of years.  For the heavy hours of toil which the judges endured, for the long examination which they gave to voluminous records, for their nights of sleeplessness passed in anxious thought to ascertain what was true and right amidst a mass of conflicting evidence and doubtful principles, the public at large appeared to have little thought and less consideration.  The cry of disappointment over frustrated schemes of cupidity and fraud was sufficient for the time to drown all other expressions of judgment upon the action of the court.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>The unsettled condition of the land titles of the State gave occasion to a great deal of litigation and was for a long time the cause of much bad feeling towards the judges who essayed to administer impartial justice.  When California was acquired, the population was small and widely scattered.  To encourage colonization, grants of land in large quantities, varying from one to eleven leagues, had been made to settlers by the Mexican government.  Only small tracts were subjected to cultivation.  The greater part of the land was used for grazing cattle, which were kept in immense herds.  The grants were sometimes of tracts with defined boundaries, and sometimes of places by name, but more frequently of specified quantities within boundaries embracing a greater amount.  By the Mexican law, it was incumbent upon the magistrates of the vicinage to put the grantees in possession of the land granted to them; and for that purpose to measure off and segregate the quantity designated.  Owing to the sparseness of the population there was little danger of dispute as to boundaries, and this segregation in the majority of cases had been neglected before our acquisition of the country.  From the size of the grants and the want of definite boundaries, arose nearly all the difficulties and complaints of the early settlers.  Upon the discovery of gold, immigrants from all parts of the world rushed into the country, increasing the population in one or two years from a few thousand to several hundred thousand.  A large number crossed the plains from the Western States, and many of them sought for farming lands upon which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:to settle.  To them a grant of land, leagues in extent, seemed a monstrous wrong to which they could not be reconciled.  The vagueness, also, in many instances, of the boundaries of the land claimed gave force and apparent reason to their objections.  They accordingly settled upon what they found unenclosed or uncultivated, without much regard to the claims of the Mexican grantees.  If the land upon which they thus settled was within the tracts formerly occupied by the grantees with their herds, they denied the validity of grants so large in extent.  If the boundaries designated enclosed a greater amount than that specified in the grants, they undertook to locate the supposed surplus.  Thus, if a grant were of three leagues within boundaries embracing four, the immigrant would undertake to appropriate to himself a portion of what he deemed the surplus; forgetting that other immigrants might do the same thing, each claiming that what he had taken was a portion of such surplus, until the grantee was deprived of his entire property.</p><P>When I was brought to consider the questions to which this condition of things gave rise, I assumed at the outset that the obligations of the treaty with Mexico were to be respected and enforced.  This treaty had stipulated for the protection of all rights of property of the citizens of the ceded country; and that stipulation embraced inchoate and equitable rights, as well as those which were perfect.  It was not for the Supreme Court of California to question the wisdom or policy of Mexico in making grants of such large portions of her domain, or of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:United States in stipulating for their protection.  I felt the force of what Judge Grier had expressed in his opinion in the case of The United States vs. Sutherland, in the 19th of Howard, that the rhetoric which denounced the grants as enormous monopolies and princedoms might have a just influence when urged to those who had a right to give or refuse; but as the United States had bound themselves by a treaty to acknowledge and protect all <HI REND="italics">bona-fide</HI>
114.sgm: titles granted by the previous government, the court had no discretion to enlarge or contract such grants to suit its own sense of propriety or to defeat just claims, however extensive, by stringent technical rules of construction to which they were not originally subjected.  Since then, while sitting on the Bench of the Supreme Court of the United States, I have heard this obligation of our government to protect the rights of Mexican grantees stated in the brilliant and powerful language of Judge Black.  In the Fossat case, referring to the land claimed by one Justo Larios, a Mexican grantee, he said: "The land we are claiming never belonged to this government.  It was private property under a grant made long before our war with Mexico.  When the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo came to be ratified--at the very moment when Mexico was feeling the sorest pressure that could be applied to her by the force of our armies, and the diplomacy of our statesmen--she utterly refused to cede her public property in California unless upon the express condition that all private titles should be faithfully protected.  We made the promise.  The gentleman sits on this bench <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:who was then our Minister there.<ANCHOR ID="n13-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: With his own right hand he pledged the sacred honor of this nation that the United States would stand over the grantees of Mexico and keep them safe in the enjoyment of their property.  The pledge was not only that the government itself would abstain from all disturbance of them, but that every blow aimed at their rights, come from what quarter it might, should be caught upon the broad shield of our blessed Constitution and our equal laws."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1">Mr. Justice Clifford.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>"It was by this assurance thus solemnly given that we won the reluctant consent of Mexico to part with California.  It gave us a domain of more than imperial grandeur.  Besides the vast extent of that country, it has natural advantages such as no other can boast.  Its valleys teem with unbounded fertility, and its mountains are filled with in-exhaustible treasures of mineral wealth.  The navigable rivers run hundreds of miles into the interior, and the coast is indented with the most capacious harbors in the world.  The climate is more healthful than any other on the globe: men can labor longer with less fatigue.  The vegetation is more vigorous and the products more abundant; the face of the earth is more varied, and the sky bends over it with a lovelier blue.--That was what we gained by the promise to protect men in the situation of Justo Larios, their children, their alienees, and others claiming through them.  It is impossible that in this nation they will ever be plundered in the face of such a pledge."--(2 Wallace, 703.)</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>Actuated by this principle--that fidelity to a nation's pledge is a sacred duty, and that justice is the highest interest of the country, I endeavored, whenever the occasion presented itself, and my associates heartily co-operated with me, to protect the Mexican grantees.  Their grants contained a stipulation for the possession of the lands granted, inasmuch as they were subject to the conditions of cultivation and occupancy, and a failure to comply with the conditions was considered by the tribunals of the United States as a most material circumstance in the determination of the right of the grantees to a confirmation of their claims.  I held, therefore, with the concurrence of my associates, that the grantees, whether they were to be considered as having a legal or an equitable right to the lands, were entitled to their possession until the action of the government upon their claims, and, therefore, that they could recover in ejectment.  And when the grant was not a mere float, but was of land within defined boundaries, which embraced a greater quantity than that specified in it, with a provision that the surplus should be measured off by the government, I held that until such measurement the grantee could hold the whole as against intruders, and until then he was a tenant in common with the government.  As I said in one of my opinions, speaking for the court, until such measurement no individual could complain, much less could he be permitted to determine in advance, that any particular locality would fall within the supposed surplus, and thereby justify its forcible seizure and detention by himself.  "If <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:one person could in this way appropriate a particular parcel to himself, all persons could do so; and thus the grantee, who is the donee of the government, would be stripped of its bounty for the benefit of those who were not in its contemplation and were never intended to be the recipients of its favors."<ANCHOR ID="n13-2">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-2">Cornwall vs. Culver, 16 Cal., 429.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>These views have since met with general assent in California and have been approved by the Supreme Court of the United States.<ANCHOR ID="n13-3">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: But at that time they gave great offence to a large class, and the judges were denounced in unmeasured terms as acting in the interests of monopolists and land-grabbers.  Even now, when the wisdom and justice of their action are seen and generally recognized, words of censure for it are occasionally whispered through the Press.  Persons sometimes seem to forget that to keep the plighted faith of the nation, to preserve from reproach its fair fame, where its honor is engaged, is one of the highest duties of all men in public life.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-3">Van Reynegan vs. Bolton, 95 U.S., 33.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>The action of the court as to the possession of the public lands of the United States met with more favor.  The position of the people of California with respect to the public lands was unprecedented.  The discovery of gold brought, as already stated, an immense immigration to the country.  The slopes of the Sierra Nevada were traversed by many of the immigrants in search of the precious metals, and by others the tillable land was occupied for agricultural purposes.  The title was in the United States, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:and there had been no legislation by which it could be acquired.  Conflicting possessory claims naturally arose, and the question was presented as to the law applicable to them.  As I have mentioned in my Narrative of Reminiscences, the Legislature in 1851 had provided that in suits before magistrates for mining claims, evidence of the customs, usages, and regulations of miners in their vicinage should be admissible, and, when not in conflict with the Constitution and laws of the United States, should govern their decision, and that the principle thus approved was soon applied in actions for mining claims in all courts.  In those cases it was considered that the first possessor or appropriator of the claim had the better right as against all parties except the government, and that he, and persons claiming under him, were entitled to protection.  This principle received the entire concurrence of my associates, and was applied by us, in its fullest extent, for the protection of all possessory rights on the public lands.  Thus, in Coryell vs. Cain, I said, speaking for the court: "It is undoubtedly true, as a general rule, that the claimant in ejectment must recover upon the strength of his own title, and not upon the weakness of his adversary's, and that it is a sufficient answer to his action to show title out of him and in a third party.  But this general rule has, in this State, from the anomalous condition of things arising from the peculiar character of the mining and landed interests of the country, been, to a certain extent, qualified and limited.  The larger portion of the mining lands within the State belong to the United States, and yet that fact has never been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:considered as a sufficient answer to the prosecution of actions for the recovery of portions of such lands.  Actions for the possession of mining claims, water privileges, and the like, situated upon the public lands, are matters of daily occurrence, and if the proof of the paramount title of the government would operate to defeat them, confusion and ruin would be the result.  In determining controversies between parties thus situated, this court proceeds upon the presumption of a grant from the government to the first appropriator of mines, water privileges, and the like.  This presumption, which would have no place for consideration as against the assertion of the rights of the superior proprietor, is held absolute in all those controversies.  And with the public lands which are not mineral lands, the title, as between citizens of the State, where neither connects himself with the government, is considered as vested in the first possessor, and to proceed from him."--(16 Cal., p. 572.)</p><P>The difficulties attendant upon any attempt to give security to landed possessions in the State, arising from the circumstances I have narrated, were increased by an opinion, which for some time prevailed, that the precious metals, gold and silver, found in various parts of the country, whether in public or private lands, belonged to the State by virtue of her sovereignty.  To this opinion a decision of the Supreme Court of the State, made in 1853, gave great potency.  In Hicks vs. Bell, decided that year, the court came to that conclusion, relying upon certain decisions of the courts of England recognizing the right <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:of the Crown to those metals.  The principal case on the subject was that of The Queen vs. The Earl of Northum-berland, reported in Plowden.  The counsel of the Queen in that case gave, according to our present notions, some very fanciful reasons for the conclusion reached, though none were stated in the judgment of the court.  There were three reasons, said the counsel, why the King should have the mines and ores of gold and silver within the realm, in whatsoever land they were found: "The first was, in respect to the excellency of the thing, for of all things which the soil within this realm produces or yields, gold and silver are the most excellent, and of all persons in the realm, the King is, in the eye of the law, most excellent.  And the common law, which is founded upon reason, appropriates everything to the person whom it best suits, as common and trivial things to the common people, things of more worth to persons in a higher and superior class, and things most excellent to those persons who excel all others; and because gold and silver are the most excellent things which the soil contains, the law has appointed them (as in reason it ought) to the person who is most excellent, and that is the King.--The second reason was, in respect of the necessity of the thing.  For the King is the head of the Weal-public and the subjects are his members; and the office of the King, to which the law has appointed him, is to preserve his subjects; and their preservation consisted in two things, viz., in an army to defend them against hostilities, and in good laws.  And an army cannot be had and maintained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:without treasure, for which reason some authors, in their books, call treasure the sinews of war; and, therefore, in-asmuch as God has created mines within this realm, as a natural provision of treasure for the defence of the realm, it is reasonable that he who has the government and care of the people, whom he cannot defend without treasure, should have the treasure wherewith to defend them.--The third reason was, in respect of its convenience to the subjects in the way of mutual commerce and traffic.  For the subjects of the realm must, of necessity, have intercourse or dealing with one another, for no individual is furnished with all necessary commodities, but one has need of the things which another has, and they cannot sell or buy together without coin.--And if the subject should have it (the ore of gold or silver) the law would not permit him to coin it, nor put a print or value upon it, for it belongs to the King only to fix the value of coin, and to ascertain the price of the quantity, and to put the print upon it, which being done, the coin becomes current for so much as the King has limited.--So that the body of the realm would receive no benefit or advantage if the subject should have the gold and silver found in mines in his land; but on the other hand, by appropriating it to the King, it tends to the universal benefit of all the subjects in making their King able to defend them with an army against all hostilities, and when he has put the print and value upon it, and has dispersed it among his subjects, they are thereby enabled to carry on mutual commerce with one another, and to buy and sell as they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:have occasion, and to traffic at their pleasure.  Therefore, for these reasons, viz., for the excellency of the thing, and for the necessity of it, and the convenience that will accrue to the subjects, the common law, which is no other than pure and tried reason, has appropriated the ore of gold and silver to the King, in whatever land it be found."</p><P>The Supreme Court of the State, without considering the reasons thus assigned in the case in Plowden, adopted its conclusion; and as the gold and silver in the British realm are there held to belong to the Crown, it was concluded, on the hypothesis that the United States have no municipal sovereignty within the limits of the State, that they must belong in this country to the State.  The State, therefore, said the court, "has solely the right to authorize them" (the mines of gold and silver) "to be worked; to pass laws for their regulation; to license miners; and to affix such terms and conditions as she may deem proper to the freedom of their use.  In the legislation upon this subject she has established the policy of permitting all who desire it to work her mines of gold and silver, with or without conditions, and she has wisely provided that their conflicting claims shall be adjudicated by the rules and customs which may be established by bodies of them working in the same vicinity."--(3 Cal., 220.)</p><P>The miners soon grasped the full scope of this decision, and the lands of private proprietors were accordingly invaded for the purpose of mining as freely as the public <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:lands.  It was the policy of the State to encourage the development of the mines, and no greater latitude in exploration could be desired than was thus sanctioned by the highest tribunal of the State.  It was not long, however, before a cry came up from private proprietors against the invasion of their possessions which the decision had permitted; and the court was compelled to put some limitation upon the enjoyment by the citizen of this right of the State.  Accordingly, within two years afterwards, in Stoakes vs. Barrett, (5 Cal., 37,) it held that although the State was the owner of the gold and silver found in the lands of private individuals as well as in the public lands, "yet to authorize an invasion of private property in order to enjoy a public franchise would require more specific legislation than any yet resorted to."</p><P>The spirit to invade other people's lands, to which the original decision gave increased force against the intention of its authors, could not be as easily repressed as it was raised in the crowd of adventurers, who filled the mining regions.  Accordingly, long before I went on the bench, the right to dig for the precious metals on the lands of private individuals was stoutly asserted under an assumed license of the State.  And afterwards, in the case of Biddle Boggs vs. The Merced Mining Co., which came before the court in 1859, where the plaintiff claimed under a patent of the United States, issued upon the confirmation of a Mexican grant, the existence of this license was earnestly maintained by parties having no connection with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:government, nor any claim of title to the land.  Its existence was, however, repudiated by the court, and speaking for it in that case I said: "There is gold in limited quantities scattered through large and valuable districts, where the land is held in private proprietorship, and under this pretended license the whole might be invaded, and, for all useful purposes, destroyed, no matter how little remunerative the product of the mining.  The entry might be made at all seasons, whether the land was under cultivation or not, and without reference to its condition, whether covered with orchards, vineyards, gardens, or otherwise.  Under such a state of things, the proprietor would never be secure in his possessions, and without security there would be little development, for the incentive to improvement would be wanting.  What value would there be to a title in one man, with a right of invasion in the whole world?  And what property would the owner possess in mineral land--the same being in fact to him poor and valueless just in proportion to the actual richness and abundance of its products?  There is something shocking to all our ideas of the rights of property in the proposition that one man may invade the possessions of another, dig up his fields and gardens, cut down his timber, and occupy his land, under the pretence that he has reason to believe there is gold under the surface, or if existing, that he wishes to extract and remove it."</p><P>At a later day the court took up the doctrine, that the precious metals belonged to the State by virtue of her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:sovereignty, and exploded it.  The question arose in Moore vs. Smaw, reported in 17th California, and in disposing of it, speaking for the court, I said: "It is undoubtedly true that the United States held certain rights of sovereignty over the territory which is now embraced within the limits of California, only in trust for the future State, and that such rights at once vested in the new State upon her admission into the Union.  But the ownership of the precious metals found in public or private lands was not one of those rights.  Such ownership stands in no different relation to the sovereignty of a State than that of any other property which is the subject of barter and sale.  Sovereignty is a term used to express the supreme political authority of an independent State or Nation.  Whatever rights are essential to the existence of this authority are rights of sovereignty.  Thus the right to declare war, to make treaties of peace, to levy taxes, to take private property for public uses, termed the right of eminent domain, are all rights of sovereignty, for they are rights essential to the existence of supreme political authority.  In this country, this authority is vested in the people, and is exercised through the joint action of their federal and State governments.  To the federal government is delegated the exercise of certain rights or powers of sovereignty; and with respect to sovereignty, rights and powers are synonymous terms; and the exercise of all other rights of sovereignty, except as expressly probibited, is reserved to the people of the respective States, or vested by them in their local governments.  When we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:say, therefore, that a State of the Union is sovereign, we only mean that she possesses supreme political authority, except as to those matters over which such authority is delegated to the federal government, or prohibited to the States; in other words, that she possesses all the rights and powers essential to the existence of an independent political organization, except as they are withdrawn by the provisions of the Constitution of the United States.  To the existence of this political authority of the State--this qualified sovereignty, or to any part of it--the ownership of the minerals of gold and silver found within her limits is in no way essential.  The minerals do not differ from the great mass of property, the ownership of which may be in the United States, or in individuals, without affecting in any respect the political jurisdiction of the State.  They may be acquired by the State, as any other property may be, but when thus acquired she will hold them in the same manner that individual proprietors hold their property, and by the same right; by the right of ownership, and not by any right of sovereignty."</p><P>And referring to the argument of counsel in the case in Plowden, I said that it would be a waste of time to show that the reasons there advanced in support of the right of the Crown to the mines could not avail to sustain any ownership of the State in them.  The State takes no property by reason of "the excellency of the thing," and taxation furnishes all requisite means for the expenses of government.  The convenience of citizens in commercial transactions is undoubtedly promoted by a supply of coin, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:and the right of coinage appertains to sovereignty.  But the exercise of this right does not require the ownership of the precious metals by the State, nor by the federal government, where this right is lodged under our system, as the experience of every day demonstrates.</p><P>I also held that, although under the Mexican law the gold and silver found in land did not pass with a grant of the land, a different result followed, under the common law, when a conveyance of land was made by an individual or by the government.  By such conveyance everything passed in any way connected with the land, forming a portion of its soil or fixed to its surface.</p><P>The doctrine of the right of the State by virtue of her sovereignty to the mines of gold and silver perished with this decision.  It was never afterwards seriously asserted.  But for holding what now seems so obvious, the judges were then grossly maligned as acting in the interest of monopolists and land owners, to the injury of the laboring class.</p><P>The decisions, however, which caused for the time the greatest irritation, and excited the bitterest denunciation of the judges, related to the titles to land in the city of San Francisco, though in the end they proved to be of incalculable benefit.  Upon the acquisition of California, there was a Mexican Pueblo upon the site of the city.  The term <HI REND="italics">pueblo</HI>
114.sgm: is aptly translated by the English word <HI REND="italics">town</HI>
114.sgm:.  It has all the vagueness of that term, and is equally applicable to a settlement of a few individuals at a particular place, or to a regularly organized municipality.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Pueblo</HI>
114.sgm: of San Francisco was composed of a small population; but, as early as 1835, it was of sufficient importance to have an <HI REND="italics">Ayuntamiento</HI>
114.sgm: or Town Council, composed of alcaldes and other officers, for its government.  At the time of our acquisition of the country it was under the government of alcaldes or justices of the peace.  By the laws of Mexico, then in force, <HI REND="italics">pueblos</HI>
114.sgm: or towns, when once officially recognized as such by the appointment of municipal magistrates, became entitled to four square leagues of land, to be measured off and assigned to them by the officers of the government.  Under these laws the city of San Francisco, as successor of the Mexican Pueblo, asserted a claim to such lands, to be measured off from the northern portion of the peninsula upon which the city is situated.  And the alcaldes, assuming an authority similar to that possessed by <HI REND="italics">alcaldes</HI>
114.sgm: in other <HI REND="italics">pueblos</HI>
114.sgm:, exercised the power of distributing these municipal lands in small parcels to settlers for building, cultivation, and other uses.</p><P>When the forces of the United States took possession of the city, the alcaldes, holding under the Mexican government, were superseded by persons appointed by our military or naval officers having command of the place.  With the increase of population which followed the discovery of gold, these magistrates were besieged by applicants for grants of land; and it was refreshing to see with what generous liberality they disposed of lots in the city--a liberality not infrequent when exercised with reference to other people's property.  Lots, varying in size from fifty to one hundred varas square, (a measure nearly equal to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:our yard,) were given away as freely as they were asked, only a small fee to meet necessary charges for preparing and recording the transfers being demanded.  Thus, for the lot occupied by the Lick House, and worth now nearly a million, only a few dollars, less I believe than twenty, were paid.  And for the lot covered by the Grand Hotel, admitted to be now worth half a million, less than thirty-five dollars were paid.</p><P>The authority of the alcaldes to dispose of the lands was questioned by many of the new immigrants, and the validity of their grants denied.  They asserted that the land was part of the public property of the United States.  Many holding these views gave evidence of the earnestness of their convictions by immediately appropriating to themselves as much vacant land in the city as they could conveniently occupy.  Disputes followed, as a matter of course, between claimants under the alcalde grants and those holding as settlers, which often gave rise to long and bitter litigation.  The whole community was in fact divided between those who asserted the existence of a <HI REND="italics">pueblo</HI>
114.sgm: having a right to the lands mentioned, and the power of the alcaldes to make grants of them; and those who insisted that the land belonged to the United States.</p><P>Early in 1850, after the State government was organized, the Legislature incorporated the City of San Francisco; and, as is usual with municipal bodies not restrained by the most stringent provisions, it contracted more debts than its means warranted, and did not always make provision for their payment at maturity.  Numerous suits, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:therefore, were instituted and judgments were recovered against the city.  Executions followed, which were levied upon the lands claimed by her as successor of the <HI REND="italics">pueblo</HI>
114.sgm:.  Where the occupants denied the title of the city, they were generally indifferent to the sales by the sheriff.  Property of immense value, in some cases many acres in extent, was, in consequence, often struck off to bidders at a merely nominal price.  Upon the deeds of the officer, suits in ejectment were instituted in great numbers; and thus questions as to the existence of the alleged <HI REND="italics">pueblo</HI>
114.sgm:, and whether, if existing, it had any right to land, and the nature of such right, if any, were brought before the lower courts; and, finally, in a test case--Hart vs. Burnett--they found their way to the Supreme Court of the State.  In the meantime a large number of persons had become interested in these sales, aside from the occupants of the land, and the greatest anxiety was manifested as to the decision of the Court.  Previous decisions on the questions involved were not consistent; nor had they met the entire approval of the profession, although the opinion prevailed generally that a Mexican pueblo of some kind, owning or having an interest in lands, had existed on the site of the city upon the acquisition of the country, and that such lands, like other property of the city not used for public purposes, were vendible on execution.</p><P>In 1855, after the sale in respect to which the test case was made, the Council of the city passed "the Van Ness Ordinance," so called from the name of its author, the object of which was to settle and quiet, as far as practicable, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the title of persons occupying land in the city.  It relinquished and granted the right and interest of the city to lands within its corporate limits, as defined by the charter of 1851, with certain exceptions, to parties in the actual possession thereof, by themselves or tenants, on or before the first of January, 1855, if the possession were continued to the time of the introduction of the ordinance into the Common Council in June of that year; or, if interrupted by an intruder or trespasser, it had been or might be recovered by legal process.  And it declared that, for the purposes of the act, all persons should be deemed in possession who held titles to land within the limits mentioned, by virtue of a grant made by the authorities of the pueblo, including alcaldes among them, before the 7th of July, 1846,--the day when the jurisdiction over the country is deemed to have passed from Mexico to the United States,--or by virtue of a grant subsequently made by those authorities, if the grant, or a material portion of it, had been entered in a proper book of record deposited in the office or custody of the recorder of the county of San Francisco on or before April 3d, 1850.  This ordinance was approved by an act of the Legislature of the State in March, 1858, and the benefit of it and of the confirmatory act was claimed by the defendant in the test case.</p><P>That case was most elaborately argued by able and learned counsel.  The whole law of Mexico respecting <HI REND="italics">pueblos</HI>
114.sgm:, their powers, rights, and property, and whether, if possessing property, it was subject to forced sale, the effect upon such land of the change of sovereignty to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:United States, the powers of alcaldes in disposing of the property of these municipalities, the effect of the Van Ness Ordinance, and the confirmatory act of the Legislature, were all discussed with a fullness and learning which left nothing unexplained or to be added.  For weeks afterwards the judges gave the most laborious attention to the questions presented, and considered every point and the argument on both sides of it with anxious and painful solicitude to reach a just conclusion.  The opinion of the Court, prepared by Mr. Justice Baldwin, is without precedent for the exhaustive learning and research it exhibits upon the points discussed.  The Court held, among other things, that, at the date of the conquest and cession of the country, San Francisco was a pueblo, having the rights which the law of Mexico conferred upon such municipal organizations; that as such pueblo it had proprietary rights to certain lands, which were held in trust for the public use of the city, and were not subject to seizure and sale under execution; that such portions as were not set apart for common use or special purposes could be granted in lots to private persons by its ayuntamiento or by alcaldes or other officers who represented or had succeeded to its powers; that the lands, and the trusts upon which they were held, were public and municipal in their nature, and since the organization of the State were under its control and supervision; that the act of the Legislature confirming the Van Ness Ordinance was a proper exercise of the power of the State, and vested in the possessors therein described, as against the city and State, a title to the lands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:mentioned; and that the city held the lands of the pueblo, not legally disposed of by its officers, unaffected by sheriff's sales under executions against her.</p><P>This decision was of the greatest importance both to the city and the occupants of land within its limits.  The Van Ness Ordinance had reserved from grant for the uses of the city all the lots which it then occupied or had set apart for public squares, streets, sites for school-houses, city hall and other buildings belonging to the corporation, and also such other lots as it might subsequently select for public purposes within certain designated limits.  All these were by the decision at once released from any possible claim by virtue of sales on executions.  All persons occupying lands not thus reserved were by the decision quieted in their possession, so far as any claim of the city or State could be urged against them.  Property to the value of many millions was thereby rescued from the spoiler and speculator, and secured to the city or settler.  Peace was given to thousands of homes.  Yet for this just and most beneficent judgment there went up from a multitude, who had become interested in the sales, a fierce howl of rage and hate.  Attacks full of venom were made upon Judge Baldwin and myself, who had agreed to the decision.  No epithets were too vile to be applied to us; no imputations were too gross to be cast at us.  The Press poured out curses upon our heads.  Anonymous circulars filled with falsehoods, which malignity alone could invent, were spread broadcast throughout the city, and letters threatening assassination in the streets or by-ways were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:sent to us through the mail.  The violence of the storm, however, was too great to last.  Gradually it subsided and reason began to assert its sway.  Other words than those of reproach were uttered; and it was not many months before the general sentiment of the people of the city was with the decision.  A year did not elapse before the great good it had conferred upon the city and settler was seen and appreciated.  Since then its doctrines have been repeatedly re-affirmed.  They have been approved by the Supreme Court of the United States; and now no one doubts their soundness.</p><P>After that decision there was still wanting for the complete settlement of titles in the city the confirmation by the tribunals of the United States of her claim to the lands.  The act of Congress of March 3d, 1851, creating the Board of Land Commissioners, provided that all claims to land in California, by virtue of any right or title derived from the Spanish or Mexican government, should be presented to the board for examination and adjudication.  Accordingly, the city of San Francisco, soon after the organization of the board, in 1852, presented her claim for four square leagues as successor of the <HI REND="italics">pueblo</HI>
114.sgm:, and asked for its confirmation.  In December, 1854, the board confirmed the claim for a portion of the four square leagues, but not for the whole; the portion confirmed being embraced within the charter limits of 1851.  The city was dissatisfied with this limitation, and appealed from the decision of the Commissioners to the District Court of the United States.  An appeal was also taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:by the United States, but was subsequently withdrawn.  The case remained in the District Court without being disposed of until September, 1864, nearly ten years, when, under the authority of an act of Congress of July 1st of that year, it was transferred to the Circuit Court of the United States.  Whilst the case was pending in the District Court, the population of the city had increased more than fourfold; and improvements of a costly character had been made in all parts of it.  The magnitude of the interests which had thus grown up demanded that the title to the land upon which the city rested should be in some way definitely settled.  To expedite this settlement, as well as the settlement of titles generally in the State, was the object of the act of July 1st, 1864.  Its object is so stated in its title.  It was introduced by Senator Conness, of California, who was alive to everything that could tend to advance the interests of the State.  He felt that nothing would promote its peace and prosperity more than giving security to its land titles, and he labored earnestly to bring about that result.  In framing the act, he consulted me, and at my suggestion introduced sections four, five, and seven, which I drafted and gave to him, but without the exception and proviso to the fifth section, which were added at the request of the Commissioner of the Land Office.<ANCHOR ID="n13-4">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: The fourth section authorized the District Court to transfer to the Circuit Court cases pending before it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:arising under the act of March 3d, 1851, affecting the title to lands within the corporate limits of a city or town, and provided that in such cases both the District and Circuit Judges might sit.  By the fifth section, all the right and title of the United States to the land within the corporate limits of the city, as defined by its charter of 1851, were relinquished and granted to the city and its successors for the uses and purposes specified in the Van Ness Ordinance.  The exceptions incorporated at the suggestion of the Commissioner of the Land Office related to parcels of land previously or then occupied by the United States for military, naval, or other public purposes, and such other parcels as might be subsequently designated for such purposes by the President within one year after the return to the land office of an approved plat of the exterior limits of the city.  The holders of grants from the authorities of the <HI REND="italics">pueblo</HI>
114.sgm: and the occupants of land within the limits of the charter of 1851 were thus quieted in their possessions.  But as the claim of the city was for a much greater quantity, the case for its confirmation was still prosecuted.  Under the fourth section, it was transferred to the Circuit Court, as already stated; and it was soon afterwards brought to a hearing.  On the 30th of October, 1864, it was decided.  For some reason I do not now recall, the District Judge was unable to sit with me, and the case was, therefore, heard before me alone.  I held that a pueblo of some kind existed at the site of the present city of San Francisco upon the cession of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:country; that as such it was entitled to the possession of certain lands to the extent of four square leagues; and that the present city had succeeded to such rights, following, in these particulars, the decision which had previously been made in the case of Hart vs. Burnett, by the Supreme Court of the State, in which I had participated.  I accordingly decided that the city was entitled to have her claim confirmed to four square leagues of land, subject to certain reservations.  But I also added that the lands to which she was entitled had not been given to her by the laws of the former government in absolute property with full right of disposition and alienation, but to be held in trust for the benefit of the whole community, with such powers of use, disposition, and alienation as had been or might thenceforth be conferred upon her or her officers for the execution of the trust.  The trust character of the city's title was expressed in the decree of confirmation.  The decision was rendered on the 30th of October, 1864, as stated, and a decree was soon afterwards entered; but as a motion was made for a re-hearing, the control over it was retained by the Circuit Court until May of the following year.  Upon the suggestion of counsel, it was then modified in some slight particulars so as to limit the confirmation to land above ordinary high water mark, as it existed at the date of the acquisition of the country, namely, the 7th of July, 1846.  On the 18th of May, 1865, the decree was finally settled and entered.  Appeals from it were prosecuted to the Supreme Court both by the United States and by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the city; by the United States from the whole decree, and by the city from so much of it as included certain reservations in the estimate of the quantity of land confirmed.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-4">See Exhibit J, in Appendix.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>In October following I proceeded as usual to Washington to attend the then approaching term of the Supreme Court, and thought no more of the case until my attention was called to it by a most extraordinary circumstance.  Just before leaving San Francisco Mr. Rulofson, a photographer of note, requested me to sit for a photograph, expressing a desire to add it to his gallery.  I consented, and a photograph of a large size was taken.  As I was leaving his rooms he observed that he intended to make some pictures of a small size from it, and would send me a few copies.  On the morning of the 13th of January following (1866), at Washington, Mr. Delos Lake, a lawyer of distinction in California, at one time a District Judge of the State, and then District Attorney of the United States, joined me, remarking, as he did so, that the arrival of the California steamer at New York had been telegraphed, and he hoped that I had received some letters for him, as he had directed his letters to be forwarded to my care.  I replied that when I left my room my messenger had not brought my mail; but if he would accompany me there we would probably find it.  Accordingly, we proceeded to my room, where on the centre-table lay my mail from California, consisting of a large number of letters and papers.  Among them I noticed a small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>It bore the stamp of the San Francisco post-office upon the address.  My name had evidently been cut from the California Reports, but the words "Washington, D.C.," and "Per steamer," had been taken from a newspaper.  The slips were pasted on the package.  On the opposite side were the words in print:</p><P>From</p><P>GEO. H. JOHNSON'S</p><P>Pioneer Gallery,</p><P>645 and 649 Clay street,</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO.</p><P>As I took up the package I remarked that this must come from Rulofson;--no, I immediately added, Rulofson has nothing to do with the Pioneer Gallery.  It then occurred to me that it might be a present for my wife, recollecting at the moment that the mail came by the steamer which sailed from San Francisco about Christmas time.  It may be, I said to myself, a Christmas present for my wife.  I will open it just far enough to see, and, if it be intended for her, I will close it and forward it to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:New York, where she was at the time.  I accordingly tore off the covering and raised the lid just far enough to enable me to look inside.  I was at once struck with the black appearance of the inside.  "What is this, Lake?"  I said, addressing myself to my friend.  Judge Lake looked over my shoulder into the box, as I held it in my hand, and at once exclaimed, "It is a torpedo.  Don't open it."  I was startled by the suggestion, for the idea of a torpedo was the last thing in the world to occur to me.  I immediately laid the package on the sill of the window, where it was subjected to a careful inspection by us both, so far as it could be made with the lid only an eighth of an inch open.</p><P>Soon afterwards Judge Lake took the package to the Capitol, which was directly opposite to my rooms, and to the office of the Clerk of the Supreme Court, and showed it to Mr. Broom, one of the deputies.  They dipped the package into water and left it to soak for some minutes.  They then took it into the carriage way under the steps leading to the Senate Chamber, and shielding themselves behind one of the columns, threw the box against the wall.  The blow broke the hinge of the lid and exposed the contents.  A murderous contrivance it was;--a veritable infernal machine!  Twelve cartridges such as are used in a common pistol, about an inch in length, lay imbedded in a paste of some kind, covered with fulminating powder, and so connected with a bunch of friction matches, a strip of sand-paper, and a piece of linen attached to the lid, that on opening the box the matches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:would be ignited and the whole exploded.  The package was sent to the War Department, and the following report was returned, giving a detailed description of the machine:</p><P>WASHINGTON ARSENAL, <HI REND="italics">Jan</HI>
114.sgm: 16, 1866.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Gen. A. B. Dyer, Chief of Ordinance, Washington, D.C</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>SIR: Agreeably to your instructions, I have examined the explosive machine sent to this arsenal yesterday.  It is a small miniature case containing twelve copper cartridges, such as are used in a Smith &amp; Wesson pocket pistol, a bundle of sensitive friction matches, a strip of sand-paper, and some fulminating powder.  The cartridges and matches are imbedded in common glue to keep them in place.  The strip of sand-paper lies upon the heads of the matches.  One end has been thrown back, forming a loop, through which a bit of thread evidently passed to attach it to the lid of the case.  This thread may be seen near the clasp of the lid, broken in two.  There are two wire staples, under which the strip of sand-paper was intended to pass to produce the necessary pressure on the matches.  The thread is so fixed that the strip of sand-paper could be secured to the lid after it was closed.</p><P>The whole affair is so arranged that the opening of the lid would necessarily ignite the matches, were it not that the lower end of the strip has become imbedded in the glue, which prevents it from moving.  That the burning of the matches may explode the cartridges, there is a hole in each case, and all are covered with mealed powder.</p><P>One of the cartridges has been examined and found to contain ordinary grain powder.  Two of the cartridges were exploded in a closed box sent herewith.  The effect of the explosion was an indentation on one side of the box.</p><P>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</p><P>J. G. BENTON,</p><P><HI REND="italics">Major of Ord. and Bvt. Col. Comdg</HI>
114.sgm:,</p><P>Between the outside covering and the box there were two or three folds of tissue-paper--placed there, no doubt, to prevent the possibility of an explosion from the stamping at the post office, or the striking against other packages during the voyage from San Francisco to New York.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>On the inside of the lid was pasted a slip cut from a San Francisco paper, dated October 31st, 1864, stating that on the day previous I had decided the case of the City against the United States, involving its claim to four square leagues of land, and giving the opening lines of my opinion.</p><P>The Secretary of War, Mr. Stanton, immediately telegraphed in cypher to General Halleck, then in command in San Francisco, to take active measures to find out, if possible, the person who made and sent the infernal machine.  General Halleck put the detectives of his department on the search.  Others employed detectives of the San Francisco police--but all in vain.  Suspicions were excited as to the complicity of different parties, but they were never sustained by sufficient evidence to justify the arrest of any one.  The instrument, after remaining in the hands of the detectives in San Francisco for nearly two years, was returned to me and it is now in my possession.<ANCHOR ID="n13-5">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-5">See Exhibit K, in Appendix.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>It has often been a matter of wonder to me how it was that some good angel whispered to me not to open the box.  My impetuous temperament would naturally have led me to tear it open without delay.  Probably such hesitation in opening a package directed to me never before occurred, and probably never will again.  Who knows but that a mother's prayer for the protection of her son, breathed years before, was answered then?  Who can say that her spirit was not then hovering over him and whispering caution in his ear?  That I should on that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:occasion have departed from my usual mode of action is strange--passing strange.</p><P>As already stated, the fifth section of the act of Congress of July 1st, 1864, which granted the interest of the United States to the lands within the charter limits of 1851 to the city and its successors, in trust for the benefit of possessors under the Van Ness Ordinance, among other things provided for certain reservations to be subsequently made by the President, within one year after an approved plat showing the exterior limits of the city had been filed in the land office.  No such map was filed nor were any reservations made.  The case on appeal in the meantime was not reached in the Supreme Court, and was not likely to be for a long period.  Ascertaining from General Halleck that the Secretary of War would not recommend any further reservations to be made from the municipal lands, and that probably none would be made, I drew a bill to quiet the title of the city to all the lands embraced within the decree of confirmation, and gave it to Senator Conness, who being ready, as usual, to act for the interests of the city, immediately took charge of it and secured its passage in the Senate.  In the House Mr. McRuer, Member of Congress from California, took charge of it, and with the assistance of the rest of the delegation from the State, procured its passage there.  It was signed by the President and became a law on the 8th of March, 1866.  By it all the right and title of the United States to the land covered by the decree of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the Circuit Court were relinquished and granted to the city, and the claim to the land was confirmed, subject, however, to certain reservations and exceptions; and upon trust that all the land not previously granted to the city, should be disposed of and conveyed by the city to the parties in the bona fide actual possession thereof, by themselves or tenants, on the passage of the act, in such quantities, and upon such terms and conditions, as the Legislature of the State of California might prescribe, except such parcels thereof as might be reserved and set apart by ordinance of the city for public uses.</p><P>Not long afterwards both the appeals to the Supreme Court were dismissed by stipulation of parties.  The litigation over the source of title to lands within the limits of the city, not disposed of by independent grants of the government previous to the acquisition of the country, was thus settled and closed.  The title of the city rests, therefore, upon the decree of the Circuit Court entered on the 18th day of May, 1865, and this confirmatory act of Congress.  It has been so adjudged by the Supreme Court of the United States.--(See Townsend vs. Greely, 5 Wall., 337; Grisar vs. McDowell, 6 Wall., 379.)</p><P>The title of the city being settled, the municipal authorities took measures, under the provisions of the confirmatory act, to set apart lands for school-houses, hospitals, court-house buildings, and other public purposes, and through their exertions, instigated and encouraged by Mr. McCoppin, the accomplished and efficient Mayor of the city at that time, the Ocean Park, which looks out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>HOSTILITY TO THE SUPREME COURT AFTER THE CIVIL WAR.--THE SCOFIELD RESOLUTION.</p><P>THE irritations and enmities created by the civil war did not end with the cessation of active hostilities.  They were expressed whenever any acts of the military officers of the United States were called in question; or any legislation of the States or of Congress in hostility to the insurgents was assailed; or the validity of the "Reconstruction Acts" was doubted.  And they postponed that cordial reconciliation which all patriotic men earnestly desired.</p><P>The insurrection was overthrown after a contest which, for its magnitude and the number and courage of the belligerents, was without a parallel in history.  The immense loss of life and destruction of property caused by the contest, and the burden of the enormous debt created in its prosecution, left a bitterness in the hearts of the victors which it was difficult to remove.  The assassination of Mr. Lincoln added intensity to the feeling.  That act of a madman, who had conceived the idea that he might become in our history what Brutus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:was in the history of Rome, the destroyer of the enemy of his country, was ascribed to a conspiracy of leading Confederates.  The proclamation of the Secretary of War, offering a reward for the arrest of parties charged with complicity in the act, gave support to this notion.  The wildest stories, now known to have had no foundation, were circulated and obtained ready credence among the people of the North, already wrought up to the highest pitch of excitement.  They manifested, therefore, great impatience when a doubt was cast upon the propriety or validity of the acts of the government, or of its officers, which were taken for the suppression of the rebellion or "the reconstruction" of the States; and to question their validity was almost considered proof of hostility to the Union.</p><P>By those who considered the union indissoluble, except by the common consent of the people of the several States, the organization known as the Confederate States could only be regarded as unlawful and rebellious, to be suppressed, if necessary, by force of arms.  The Constitution prohibits any treaty, alliance, or confederation by one State with another, and it declares on its face that it is the supreme law of the land.  The Confederate government, therefore, could only be treated by the United States as the military representative of the insurrection against their authority.  Belligerent rights were accorded to its armed forces in the conduct of the war, and they thus had the standing and rights of parties engaged in lawful warfare.  But no further recognition was ever given to it, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:and when those forces were overthrown its whole fabric disappeared.  But not so with the insurgent States which had composed the Confederacy.  They retained the same form of government and the same general system of laws, during and subsequent to the war, which they had possessed previously.  Their organizations as distinct political communities were not destroyed by the war, although their relations to the central authority were changed.  And their acts, so far as they did not impair or tend to impair the supremacy of the general government, or the rights of citizens of the loyal States, were valid and binding.  All the ordinary authority of government for the protection of rights of persons and property, the enforcement of contracts, the punishment of crime, and the due order of society, continued to be exercised by them as though no civil war had existed.</p><P>There was, therefore, a general expectation throughout the country, upon the cessation of actual hostilities, that these States would be restored to their former relations in the Union as soon as satisfactory evidence was furnished to the general government that resistance to its authority was overthrown and abandoned, and its laws were enforced and obeyed.  Some little time might elapse before this result would clearly appear.  It was not expected that they would be immediately restored upon the defeat of the armies of the Confederacy, nor that their public men, with the animosities of the struggle still alive, would at once be admitted into the councils of the nation, and allowed to participate in its government.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:But whenever it was satisfactorily established that there would be no renewal of the struggle and that the laws of the United States would be obeyed, it was generally believed that the restoration of the States would be an accomplished fact.</p><P>President Johnson saw in the institution of slavery the principal source of the irritation and ill-feeling between the North and the South, which had led to the war.  He believed, therefore, that its abolition should be exacted, and that this would constitute a complete guaranty for the future.  At that time the amendment for its abolition, which had passed the two Houses of Congress, was pending before the States for their action.  He was of opinion, and so expressed himself in his first message to Congress, that its ratification should be required of the insurgent States on resuming their places in the family of the Union; that it was not too much, he said, to ask of them "to give this pledge of perpetual loyalty and peace."  "Until it is done," he added, "the past, however much we may desire it, will not be forgotten.  The adoption of the amendment re-unites us beyond all power of disruption.  It heals the wound that is still imperfectly closed; it removes slavery, the element which has so long perplexed and divided the country; it makes of us once more a united people, renewed and strengthened, bound more than ever to mutual affection and support."</p><P>It would have been most fortunate for the country had this condition been deemed sufficient and been accepted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:as such.  But the North was in no mood for a course so simple and just.  Its leaders clamored for more stringent measures, on the ground that they were needed for the protection of the freedmen, and the defeat of possible schemes for a new insurrection.  It was not long, therefore, before a system of measures was adopted, which resulted in the establishment at the South of temporary governments, subject to military control, the offices of which were filled chiefly by men alien to the States and indifferent to their interests.  The misrule and corruption which followed are matters of public history.  It is no part of my purpose to speak of them.  I wish merely to refer to the state of feeling existing upon the close of the civil war as introductory to what I have to say of the unfriendly disposition manifested at the North towards the Supreme Court and some of its members, myself in particular.</p><P>Acts of the military officers, and legislation of some of the States and of Congress, during and immediately succeeding the war, were soon brought to the consideration of the Court.  Its action thereon was watched by members of the Republican party with manifest uneasiness and distrust.  Its decision in the Dred Scott case had greatly impaired their confidence in its wisdom and freedom from political influences.  Many of them looked upon that decision as precipitating the war upon the country, by the sanction it gave to efforts made to introduce slavery into the Territories; and they did not hesitate to express their belief that the sympathies of a majority of the Court were with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:Confederates.  Intimations to that effect were thrown out in some of the journals of the day, at first in guarded language, and afterwards more directly, until finally it came to be generally believed that it was the purpose of the Court, if an opportunity offered, to declare invalid most of the legislation relating to the Southern States which had been enacted during the war and immediately afterwards.  Nothing could have been more unjust and unfounded.  Many things, indeed, were done during the war, and more after its close, which could not be sustained by any just construction of the limitations of the Constitution.  It was to be expected that many things would be done in the heat of the contest which could not bear the examination of calmer times.  Mr. Chief Justice Chase expressed this fact in felicitous language when speaking of his own change of views as to the validity of the provision of law making government notes a legal tender, he said: "It is not surprising that amid the tumult of the late civil war, and under the influence of apprehensions for the safety of the Republic almost universal, different views, never before entertained by American statesmen or jurists, were adopted by many.  The time was not favorable to considerate reflection upon the constitutional limits of legislative or executive authority.  If power was assumed from patriotic motives, the assumption found ready justification in patriotic hearts.  Many who doubted yeilded their doubts; many who did not doubt were silent.  Those who were strongly averse to making government notes a legal tender felt themselves constrained to acquiesce in the views of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the advocates of the measure.  Not a few who then insisted upon its necessity, or acquiesced in that view, have, since the return of peace, and under the influence of the calmer time, reconsidered this conclusion, and now concur in those which we have just announced."</p><P>Similar language might be used with reference to other things done during the war and afterwards, besides making government notes a legal tender.  The Court and all its members appreciated the great difficulties and responsibilities of the government, both in the conduct of the war, and in effecting an early restoration of the States afterwards, and no disposition was manifested at any time to place unnecessary obstacles in its way.  But when its measures and legislation were brought to the test of judicial judgment there was but one course to pursue, and that was to apply the law and the Constitution as strictly as though no war had ever existed.  The Constitution was not one thing in war, and another in peace.  It always spoke the same language, and was intended as a rule for all times and occasions.  It recognized, indeed, the possibility of war, and, of course, that the rules of war had to be applied in its conduct in the field of military operations.  The Court never presumed to interfere there, but outside of that field, and with respect to persons not in the military service within States which adhered to the Union, and after the war in all the States, the Court could not hesitate to say that the Constitution, with all its limitations upon the exercise of executive and legislative authority, was, what it declares on its face to be, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:supreme law of the land, by which all legislation, State and federal, must be measured.</p><P>The first case growing out of the acts of military officers during the war, which attracted general attention and created throughout the North an uneasy feeling, was the Milligan case, which was before the Court on habeas corpus.  In October, 1864, Milligan, a citizen of the United States and a resident of Indiana, had been arrested by order of the military commander of the district and confined in a military prison near the capital of the State.  He was subsequently, on the 21st of the same month, put on trial before a military commission convened at Indianapolis, in that State, upon charges of: 1st. Conspiring against the government of the United States; 2d. Affording aid and comfort to the rebels against the authority of the United States; 3d. Inciting insurrection; 4th. Disloyal practices; and 5th. Violations of the laws of war; and was found guilty and sentenced to death by hanging.  He had never been in the military service; there was no rebellion in Indiana; and the civil courts were open in that State and in the undisturbed exercise of their jurisdiction.  The sentence of the military commission was affirmed by the President, who directed that it should be carried into immediate execution.  The condemned thereupon presented a petition to the Circuit Court of the United States in Indiana for a writ of habeas corpus, praying to be discharged from custody, alleging the illegality of his arrest and of the proceedings of the military commission.  The judges of the Circuit Court <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:were divided in opinion upon the question whether the writ should be issued and the prisoner be discharged, which, of course, involved the jurisdiction of the military commission to try the petitioner.  Upon a certificate of the division the case was brought to the Supreme Court at the December term of 1865.  The case has become historical in the jurisprudence of the country, and it is unnecessary to state the proceedings at length.  Suffice it to say that it was argued with great ability by eminent counsel--consisting of Mr. Joseph E. McDonald, now U.S. Senator from Indiana, Mr. James A. Garfield, a distinguished member of Congress, Mr. Jeremiah S. Black, the eminent jurist of Pennsylvania, and Mr. David Dudley Field, of New York, for the petitioner; and by Mr. Henry Stanbery, the Attorney-General, and Gen. B. F. Butler, for the government.  Their arguments were remarkable for learning, research, ability, and eloquence, and will repay the careful perusal not only of the student of law, but of all lovers of constitutional liberty.  Only a brief synopsis of them is given in the report of the case in 4th Wallace.  The decision of the Court was in favor of the liberty of the citizen.  Its opinion was announced by Mr. Justice Davis, and it will stand as a perpetual monument to his honor.  It laid down in clear and unmistakable terms the doctrine that military commissions organized during the war, in a State not invaded nor engaged in rebellion, in which the federal courts were open and in the undisturbed exercise of their judicial functions, had no jurisdiction to try a citizen who was not a resident of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:a State in rebellion, nor a prisoner of war, nor a person in the military or naval service; and that Congress could not invest them with any such power; and that in States where the courts were thus open and undisturbed the guaranty of trial by jury contained in the Constitution was intended for a state of war as well as a state of peace, and is equally binding upon rulers and people at all times and under all circumstances.</p><P>This decision was concurred in by Justices Nelson, Grier, Clifford, and myself, then constituting, with Justice Davis, a majority of the Court.  At this day it seems strange that its soundness should have been doubted by any one, yet it was received by a large class--perhaps a majority of the Northern people--with disfavor, and was denounced in unmeasured terms by many influential journals.  It was cited as conclusive evidence of the hostility of the Court to the acts of the government for the suppression of the rebellion.  The following, taken from the <HI REND="italics">Daily Chronicle</HI>
114.sgm: of January 14th, 1867, a journal of Washington, edited by Mr. Forney, then Secretary of the Senate, is a fair sample of the language applied to the decision:</p><P>"The opinion of the Supreme Court on one of the most momentous questions ever submitted to a judicial tribunal, has not startled the country more by its far-reaching and calamitous results, than it has amazed jurists and statesmen by the poverty of its learning and the feebleness of its logic.  It has surprised all, too, by its total want of sympathy with the spirit in which the war for the Union was prosecuted, and, necessarily, with those great issues growing out of it, which concern not only the life of the Republic, but the very progress of the race, and which, having been decided on the battle-field, are now sought to be reversed by the very theory of construction which led to rebellion."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>At the same term with the Milligan case the test-oath case from Missouri was brought before the Court and argued.  In January, 1865, a covention had assembled in that State to amend its constitution.  Its members had been elected in November previous.  In April, 1865, the constitution, as revised and amended, was adopted by the convention, and in June following by the people.  Elected, as the members were, in the midst of the war, it exhibited throughout traces of the animosities which the war had engendered.  By its provisions the most stringent and searching oath as to past conduct known in history was required, not only of officers under it, but of parties holding trusts and pursuing avocations in no way connected with the administration of the government.  The oath, divided into its separate parts, contained more than thirty distinct affirmations touching past conduct, and even embraced the expression of sympathies and desires.  Every person unable to take the oath was declared incapable of holding, in the State, "any office of honor, trust, or profit under its authority, or of being an officer, councilman, director, or trustee, or other manager of any corporation, public or private, now existing or hereafter established by its authority, or of acting as a professor or teacher in any educational institution, or in any common or other school, or of holding any real estate or other property in trust for the use of any church, religious society, or congregation."</p><P>And every person holding, at the time the amended constitution took effect, any of the offices, trusts, or positions mentioned, was required, within sixty days <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:thereafter to take the oath; and, if he failed to comply with this requirement, it was declared that his office, trust, or position should <HI REND="italics">ipso facto</HI>
114.sgm: become vacant.</p><P>No person, after the expiration of the sixty days, was permitted, without taking the oath, "to practice as an attorney or counsellor-at-law," nor, after that period could "any person be competent as a bishop, priest, deacon, minister, elder, or other clergyman, of any religious persuasion, sect, or denomination, to teach, or preach, or solemnize marriages."</p><P>Fine and imprisonment were prescribed as a punishment for holding or exercising any of "the offices, positions, trusts, professions, or functions" specified, without having taken the oath; and false swearing or affirmation in taking it was declared to be perjury, punishable by imprisonment in the penitentiary.</p><P>Mr. Cummings of Missouri, a priest of the Roman Catholic Church, was indicted and convicted in one of the Circuit Courts of that State, of the crime of teaching and preaching as a priest and minister of that religious denomination without having first taken the oath thus prescribed, and was sentenced to pay a fine of five hundred dollars and to be committed to jail until the same was paid.  On appeal to the Supreme Court of the State the judgment was affirmed, and the case was brought on a writ of error to our court.  It was there argued with great learning and ability by Mr. Montgomery Blair, of Washington, Mr. David Dudley Field, of New York, and Mr. Reverdy Johnson, of Maryland, for Mr. Cummings; and by Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:G. P. Strong and Mr. John B. Henderson, of Missouri, the latter then United States Senator for the State.</p><P>It was evident, after a brief consideration of the case, that the power asserted by the State of Missouri to exact this oath for past conduct from parties, as a condition of their continuing to pursue certain professions, or to hold certain trusts, might, if sustained, be often exercised in times of excitement to the oppression, if not ruin, of the citizen.  For, if the State could require the oath for the acts mentioned, it might require it for any other acts of one's past life, the number and character of which would depend upon the mere will of its legislature.  It might compel one to affirm, under oath, that he had never violated the ten commandments, nor exercised his political rights except in conformity with the views of the existing majority.  Indeed, under this kind of legislation, the most flagrant wrongs might be committed and whole classses of people deprived, not only of their political, but of their civil rights.</p><P>It is difficult to speak of the whole system of expurgatory oaths for past conduct without a shudder at the suffering and oppression they were not only capable of effecting but often did effect.  Such oaths have never been exacted in England, nor on the Continent of Europe; at least I can recall no instance of the kind.  Test-oaths there have always been limited to an affirmation on matters of present belief, or as to present disposition towards those in power.  It was reserved for the ingenuity of legislators in our country during the civil war to make test-oaths reach to past conduct.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>The Court held that enactments of this character, operating, as they did, to deprive parties by legislative decree of existing rights for past conduct, without the formality and the safeguard of a judicial trial, fell within the inhibition of the Constitution against the passage of bills of attainder.  In depriving parties of existing rights for past conduct, the provisions of the constitution of Missouri imposed, in effect, a punishment for such conduct.  Some of the acts for which such deprivation was imposed were not punishable at the time; and for some this deprivation was added to the punishments previously prescribed, and thus they fell under the further prohibition of the Constitution against the passage of an <HI REND="italics">ex post facto</HI>
114.sgm: law.  The decision of the Court, therefore, was for the discharge of the Catholic priest.  The judgement against him was reversed, and the Supreme Court of Missouri was directed to order the inferior court by which he was tried to set him at liberty.</p><P>Immediately following the case of Cummings that of <HI REND="italics">Ex-parte</HI>
114.sgm: Garland was argued, involving the validity of the iron-clad oath, as it was termed, prescribed for attorneys and counsellors-at-law by the act of Congress of January 24th, 1865.  Mr. A. H. Garland, now United States Senator from Arkansas, had been a member of the Bar of the Supreme Court of the United States before the civil war.  When Arkansas passed her ordinance of secession and joined the Confederate States, he went with her, and was one of her representatives in the Congress of the Confederacy.  In July, 1865, he received from the President a full pardon for all offences committed by his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:participation, direct or implied, in the rebellion.  At the following term of the Court he produced his pardon and asked permission to continue to practice as an attorney and counsellor without taking the oath required by the act of Congress, and the rule of the Court made in conformity with it, which he was unable to take by reason of the offices he had held under the Confederate government.  The application was argued by Mr. Matthew H. Carpenter, of Wisconsin, and Mr. Reverdy Johnson, of Maryland, for the petitioner--Mr. Garland and Mr. Marr, another applicant for admission, who had participated in the rebellion, filing printed arguments--and by Mr. Speed, of Kentucky, and Mr. Henry Stanbery, the Attorney-General, on the other side.  The whole subject of expurgatory oaths was discussed, and all that could be said on either side was fully and elaborately presented.</p><P>The Court in its decision followed the reasoning of the Cummings case and held the law invalid, as applied to the exercise of the petitioner's right to practice his profession; that such right was not a mere indulgence, a matter of grace and favor, revocable at the pleasure of the Court, or at the command of the legislature; but was a right of which the petitioner could be deprived only by the judgment of the Court for moral or professional delinquency.  The Court also held that the pardon of the petitioner released him from all penalties and disabilities attached to the offence of treason committed by his participation in the rebellion, and that, so far as that offence was concerned, he was placed beyond the reach of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:punishment of any kind.  But to exclude him by reason of that offence--that is, by requiring him to take an oath that he had never committed it--was to enforce a punishment for it notwithstanding the pardon; and that it was not within the constitutional power of Congress thus to inflict punishment beyond the reach of executive clemency.</p><P>I had the honor to deliver the opinion of the Court in these cases--the Cummings case and the Garland case.  At the present day both opinions are generally admitted to be sound, but when announced they were received by a portion of the Northern Press with apparent astonishment and undisguised condemnation.  It is difficult to appreciate at this day the fierceness with which the majority of the Court was assailed.  That majority consisted of Justices Wayne, Nelson, Grier, Clifford, and myself.  I was particularly taken to task, however, as it was supposed--at least I can only so infer from the tone of the Press--that because I had been appointed by Mr. Lincoln, I was under some sort of moral obligation to support all the measures taken by the States or by Congress during the war.  The following, respecting the opinion in the Garland case, from the editor of the <HI REND="italics">Daily Chronicle</HI>
114.sgm:, of Washington, to the <HI REND="italics">Press</HI>
114.sgm:, of Philadelphia, under date of January 16, 1867, is moderate in its language compared with what appeared in many other journals:</p><P>"Dred Scott Number Three has just been enacted in the Supreme Court of the United States, Justice Field, of California, taking the leading part as the representative of the majority decision against the constitutionality of the iron-clad test-oath, to prevent traitors from practicing before that high tribunal.  I understand it takes the ground that, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the accused without the ordinary safeguards for the protection of his rights.  In introducing it Mr. Boutwell, referring to the decision of the Court, said that--</p><P>"If there be five judges upon the bench of the highest tribunal who have not that respect for themselves to enact rules, and to enforce proper regulations, by which they will protect themselves from the contamination of conspirators and traitors against the government of the country, then the time has already arrived when the legislative department of the government should exercise its power to declare who shall be officers of the government in the administration of the law in the courts of the Union; and this bill is for that purpose."</p><P>And he called for the previous question upon it.  In subsequently advocating its passage, he said:</p><P>"I say here upon my responsibility, with reference to the recent decision of the Supreme Court, that it is an offence to the dignity and respectability of the nation that this tribunal, under the general authority vested in it under the Constitution and laws, does not protect itself from the contamination of rebels and traitors, until the rebellion itself shall be suppressed and those men shall be restored to their former rights as citizens of the country."</p><P>This language was used in 1867, and the last gun of the war had been fired in May, 1865.  It showed the irritation of violent partisans of the North against the Court because it gave no sanction to their vindictive and proscriptive measures.</p><P>The bill was passed, under a suspension of the rules, by a vote of 111 to 40.<ANCHOR ID="n14-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1">Congressional Globe, 39th Congress, 2d Session, Par I., pp 646-649.  When the bill reached the Senate it was referred to the Judiciary Committee, and by them to a sub-committee of which Mr. Stewart, Senator from Nevada, ws chairman.  He retained it until late in the session, and upon his advice, the committee then recommended its indefinite postponement.  The bill was thus deposited of.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>The Reconstruction Acts, so called--that is, "An act to provide for the more efficient government of the rebel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:States," of March 2d, 1867, and An act of the 23d of the same month, supplementary to the former--were at once attacked, as may well be supposed, as invalid, unconstitutional, and arbitrary measures of the government; and various steps were taken at an early day to bring them to the test of judicial examination and arrest their enforcement.  Those acts divided the late insurgent States, except Tennessee, into five military districts, and placed them under military control to be exercised until constitutions, containing various provisions stated, were adopted and approved by Congress, and the States declared to be entitled to representation in that body.  In the month of April following the State of Georgia filed a bill in the Supreme Court invoking the exercise of its original jurisdiction, against Stanton, Secretary of War, Grant, General of the Army, and Pope, Major-General, assigned to the command of the Third Military District, consisting of the States of Georgia, Florida, and Alabama; to restrain those officers from carrying into effect the provisions of those acts.  The bill set forth the existence of the State of Georgia as one of the States of the Union; the civil war in which she, with other States forming the Confederate States, had been engaged with the government of the United States; the surrender of the Confederate armies in 1865, and her submission afterwards to the Constitution and laws of the Union; the withdrawal of the military government from Georgia by the President as Commander-in-Chief of the Army of the United States; the re-organization of the civil government of the State under his direction and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:with his sanction; and that the government thus re-organized was in the full possession and enjoyment of all the rights and privileges, executive, legislative, and judicial, belonging to a State in the Union under the Constitution, with the exception of a representation in the Senate and House of Representatives.  The bill alleged that the acts were designed to overthrow and annul the existing government of the State, and to erect another and a different government in its place, unauthorized by the Constitution and in defiance of its guaranties; that the defendants, acting under orders of the President, were about to set in motion a portion of the army to take military possession of the State, subvert her government, and subject her people to military rule.  The presentation of this bill and the argument on the motion of the Attorney-General to dismiss it produced a good deal of hostile comment against the Judges, which did not end when the motion was granted.  It was held that the bill called for judgment upon a political question, which the Court had no jurisdiction to entertain.<ANCHOR ID="n14-2">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-2">6th Wallace, 50.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>Soon afterwards the validity of the Reconstruction Acts was again presented in the celebrated McArdle case, and in such a form that the decision of the question could not well be avoided.  In November, 1867, McArdle had been arrested and held in custody by a military commission organized in Mississippi under the Reconstruction Acts, for trial upon charges of (1) disturbance of the public peace; (2) inciting to insurrection, disorder, and violence; (3) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:libel; and (4) impeding reconstruction.  He thereupon applied to the Circuit Court of the United States for the District of Mississippi for a writ of habeas corpus, in order that he might be discharged from his alleged illegal imprisonment.  The writ was accordingly issued, but on the return of the officer showing the authority under which the petitioner was held, he was ordered to be remanded.  From that judgment he appealed to the Supreme Court.  Of course, if the Reconstruction Acts were invalid, the petitioner could not be held, and he was entitled to his discharge.  The case excited great interes throughout the country.  Judge Sharkey and Robert J. Walker, of Mississippi, David Dudley Field and Charles O'Connor, of New York, and Jeremiah S. Black, of Pennsylvania, appeared for the appellant; and Matthew H. Carpenter, of Wisconsin, Lyman Trumbull, of Illinois, and Henry Stanbery, the Attorney-General, appeared for the other side.  The hearing of it occupied four days, and seldom has it been my fortune during my judicial life, now (1877) of nearly twenty years, to listen to arguments equal in learning, ability, and eloquence.  The whole subject was exhausted.  As the arguments were widely published in the public journals, and read throughout the country, they produced a profound effect.  The impression was general that the Reconstruction Acts could not be sustained; that they were revolutionary and destructive of a republican form of government in the States, which the Constitution required the Federal government to guarantee.  I speak now merely of the general impression.  I say nothing of the fact, as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:Court never expressed its opinion in judgment.  The argument was had on the 2d, 3d, 4th, and 9th of March, 1868, and it ought to have been decided in regular course of proceedings when it was reached on the second subsequent consultation day, the 21st.  The Judges had all formed their conclusions, and no excuse was urged that more time was wanted for examination.  In the meantime an act was quietly introduced into the House, and passed, repealing so much of the law of February 5th, 1867, as authorized an appeal to the Supreme Court from the judgment of the Circuit Court on writs of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
114.sgm:, or the exercise of jurisdiction on appeals already taken.  The President vetoed the bill, but Congress passed it over his veto, and it became a law on the 27th of the month.<ANCHOR ID="n14-3">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: Whilst it was pending in Congress the attention of the Judges was called to it, and in consultation on the 21st they postponed the decision of the case until it should be disposed of.  It was then that Mr. Justice Grier wrote the following protest, which he afterwards read in Court:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-3">15 Stats. at Large, 44.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>IN RE MCARDLE.<HSEP>PROTEST OF MR. JUSTICE GRIER.</p><P>This case was fully argued in the beginning of this month.  It is a case that involves the liberty and rights not only of the appellant, but of millions of our fellow-citizens.  The country and the parties had a right to expect that it would receive the immediate and solemn attention of this Court.  By the postponement of the case we shall subject ourselves, whether justly or unjustly, to the imputation that we have evaded the performance of a duty imposed on us by the Constitution, and waited for legislation to interpose to supersede our action and relieve us from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:our responsibility.  I am not willing to be a partaker either of the eulogy or opprobrium that may follow; and can only say:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Pudet h&aelig;c opprobria nobis,<LB>Et dici potuisse; et non potuisee repelli."<LB></HI>
114.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n14-4">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-4">"It fills us with shame that these reproaches can be uttered, and cannot be repelled."  The words are found in Ovid's Metamorphoses, Book I., lines 758-9.  In some editions the last word is printed <HI REND="italics">refelli</HI>
114.sgm:<P>R. C. GRIER.</p><P>I am of the same opinion with my brother Grier, and unite in his protest.</p><P>FIELD, J.</p><P>After the passage of the repealing act, the case was continued; and at the ensuing term the appeal was dismissed for want of jurisdiction.--(7 Wall., 506.)</p><P>The record had been filed early in the term, and, as the case involved the liberty of the citizen, it was advanced on the calendar on motion of the appellant.  From that time until its final disposition the Judges were subjected to close observation, and most of them to unfriendly comment.  Their every action and word were watched and canvassed as though national interest depended upon them.  I was myself the subject of a most extraordinary exhibition of feeling on the part of members of the lower house of Congress, the immediate cause of which was a circumstance calculated to provoke merriment.  Towards the close of January, 1868, I was invited to a dinner given by Mr. Samuel Ward to the Secretary of the Treasury, Mr. McCullough.  It was understood that the dinner was to be one of unusual excellence, and that gentlemen of distinction in Congress would be present.  As some of the invited guests desired to go to New York on the same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:evening, the hour was fixed at five.  A distinguished party assembled at that time at the rooms of Welcker, a noted restaurateur in Washington.  Our host, Mr. Ward, was a character deserving of special notice.  He had been a member of the noted firm of bankers, Prime, Ward &amp; King, of New York; and afterwards represented our government in Brazil.  He was an accomplished linguist, familiar with several languages, ancient and modern.  He was a profound mathematician, and had read, without the assistance of Bowditch's translation, Laplace's celebrated work, the "Me&acute;canique Ce&acute;leste."  He passed most of his time during the sessions of Congress in Washington, looking after the interests of bankers and others in New York, as they might be affected by pending legislation.  Though called "King of the Lobby," he had little of the character of the lobbyist.  He was a gentleman in manners and education, and as such he always drew the company of gentlemen to his entertainments.  On the occasion mentioned, some of the brightest spirits of Congress were present.  As we took our seats at the table I noticed on the menu a choice collection of wines, Johannisberg among others.  The dinner was sumptuous and admirably served.  Our host saw that the appropriate wine accompanied the successive courses.  As the dinner progressed, and the wine circulated, the wit of the guests sparkled.  Story and anecdote, laughter and mirth abounded, and each guest seemed joyous and happy.  At about eight song had been added to other manifestations of pleasure.  I then concluded that I had better retire.  So I said to my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:host, that if he would excuse me, I would seek the open air; and I left.</p><P>Just at this moment Mr. Rodman M. Price, formerly Governor of New Jersey, made his appearance and exclaimed, "How is this?  I was invited to dinner at eight"--producing his card of invitation.  "Look again," said Ward, "and you will see that your eight is a five."  And so it was.  "But never mind," said Ward; "the dinner is not over.  Judge Field has just left.  Take his seat."  And so Price took my place.  He had been travelling in the Southern States, and had been an observer of the proceedings of various State conventions then in session to frame constitutions under the Reconstruction Acts, which he termed "Congo Conventions."  To the amusement of the party he gave an account of some curious scenes he had witnessed in these conventions; and wound up one or two of his stories by expressing his opinion that the whole reconstruction measures would soon be "smashed up" and sent to "kingdom come" by the Supreme Court.  The loud mirth and the singing attracted the attention of news-hunters for the Press--item gatherers--in the rooms below.  Unfortunately one of these gentlemen looked into the banquet-hall just as Price had predicted the fate of the reconstruction measures at the hands of the Supreme Court.  He instantly smelt news, and enquired of one of the waiters the name of the gentleman who had thus proclaimed the action of the Court.  The waiter quietly approached the seat of the Governor, and, whilst he was looking in another direction, abstracted the card <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:near his plate which bore my name.  Here was, indeed, a grand item for a sensational paragraph.  Straightway the newsgatherer communicated it to a newspaper in Washington, and it appeared under an editorial notice.  It was also telegraphed to a paper in Baltimore.  But it was too good to be lost in the columns of a newspaper.  Mr. Scofield, a member of Congress from Pennsylvania, on the 30th of January, 1868, asked and obtained unanimous consent of the House to present the following preamble and resolution:</p><P>"WHEREAS it is editorially stated in the <HI REND="italics">Evening Express</HI>
114.sgm:, a newspaper published in this city, on the afternoon of Wednesday, January 29, as follows: `At a private gathering of gentlemen of both political parties, one of the Justices of the Supreme Court spoke very freely concerning the reconstruction measures of Congress, and declared in the most positive terms that all those laws were unconstitutional, and that the Court would be sure to pronounce them so.  Some of his friends near him suggested that it was quite indiscreet to speak so positively; when he at once repeated his views in a more emphatic manner;' and whereas several cases under said reconstruction measures are now pending in the Supreme Court: Therefore, be it--</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
114.sgm:, That the Committee on the Judiciary be directed to enquire into the truth of the declarations therein contained, and report whether the facts as ascertained constitute such a misdemeanor in office as to require this House to present to the Senate articles of impeachment against said Justice of the Supreme Court; and that the committee have power to send for persons and papers, and have leave to report at any time."</p><P>An excited debate at once sprung up in the House, and in the course of it I was stated to be the offending Justice referred to.  Thereupon the members for California vouched for my loyalty during the war.  Other members wished to know whether an anonymous article in a newspaper was to be considered sufficient evidence to authorize a committee of the House to enquire into the private conversation.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE MOULIN VEXATION.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>SOON after my appointment to the Bench of the U.S. Supreme Court, I had a somewhat remarkable experience with a Frenchman by the name of Alfred Moulin.  It seems that this man, sometime in the year 1854 had shipped several sacks of onions and potatoes on one of the mail steamers, from San Francisco to Panama.  During the voyage the ship's store of fresh provisions ran out, and the captain appropriated the vegetables, and out of this appropriation originated a long and bitter prosecution, or rather persecution, on the part of Moulin, who proved to be not only one of the most malignant, but one of the most persevering and energetic men I have ever known.</p><P>Upon the return of the steamer from Panama to San Francisco, Moulin presented himself at the steamship company's office, and complained, as he properly might, of the appropriation of his property, and demanded compensation.  The company admitted his claim and expressed a willingness to make him full compensation; but when it came to an adjustment of it, Moulin preferred one so extravagant that it could not be listened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:to.  The property at the very most was not worth more than one or two hundred dollars, but Moulin demanded thousands; and when this was refused, he threatened Messrs. Forbes and Babcock, the agents of the company, with personal violence.  These threats he repeated from time to time for two or three years, until at length becoming annoyed and alarmed by his fierce manner, they applied to the police court and had him bound over to keep the peace.</p><P>Notwithstanding he was thus put upon his good behavior, Moulin kept continually making his appearance and reiterating his demands at the steamship company's office.  Forbes and Babcock repeatedly told him to go to a lawyer and commence suit for his claim; but Moulin refused to do so, saying that he could attend to his own business as well as, and he thought better than, any lawyer.  At length, to get rid of further annoyance, they told him he had better go to New York and see Mr. Aspinwall, the owner of the vessel, about the matter; and, to enable him to do so, gave him a free ticket over the entire route from San Francisco to that city.</p><P>Upon arriving in New York, Moulin presented himself to Mr. Aspinwall and asked that his claim should be allowed.  Mr. Aspinwall said that he knew nothing about his claim and that he did not want to be bothered with it.  Moulin still insisted, and Mr. Aspinwall told him to go away.  Moulin thereupon became excited, said he was determined to be paid, and that he would not be put off.  He thereupon commenced a regular system of annoyance.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:When Mr. Aspinwall started to go home from his office, Moulin walked by his side along the street.  When Aspinwall got into an omnibus, Moulin got in also; when Aspinwall got out, Moulin got out too.  On the following morning, when Aspinwall left his residence to go to his office, Moulin was on hand, and taking his place, marched along by his side as before.  If Aspinwall hailed an omnibus and got in, Moulin got in at the same time.  If Aspinwall got out and hailed a private carriage, Moulin got out and hailed another carriage, and ordered the driver to keep close to Mr. Aspinwall's carriage.  In fact, wherever Aspinwall went Moulin went also, and it seemed as if nothing could tire him out or deter him from his purpose.</p><P>At length Mr. Aspinwall, who had become nervous from the man's actions, exclaimed, "My God, this man is crazy; he will kill me;" and calling him into the office, asked him what he wanted in thus following and persecuting him.  Moulin answered that he wanted pay for his onions and potatoes.  Aspinwall replied, "But I don't know anything about your onions and potatoes; how should I?  Go back to my agents in California, and they will do what is right.  I will direct them to do so."  "But," said Moulin, "I have no ticket to go to California;" and thereupon Aspinwall gave him a free ticket back to San Francisco.  Moulin departed, and in due course of time again presented himself to Forbes and Babcock, in San Francisco.  At the re-appearance of the man, they were more annoyed than ever; but finally managed to induce him to commence a suit in the United States <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:District Court.  When the case was called, by an understanding between his lawyer and the lawyer of the steamship company, judgment was allowed to be entered in Moulin's favor for four hundred and three dollars and a half, besides costs.  The amount thus awarded greatly exceeded the actual value of the onions and potatoes appropriated.  It was thought by the defendant that on the payment of so large a sum, the whole matter would be ended.  But Moulin was very far from being satisfied.  He insisted that the judgment ought to have been for three thousand and nine hundred dollars, besides interest, swelling the amount to over six thousand dollars, and applied to Judge Hoffman of the District Court to set it aside.  But as the judgment had been rendered for the full value of the property taken, as admitted by his lawyer, the Judge declined to interfere.  This was in 1861.</p><P>In 1863 I received my appointment as Judge of the Supreme Court of the United States, and was assigned to the circuit embracing the district of California.  Moulin then appealed to the Circuit Court from the judgment in his favor, and at the first term I held, a motion was made to dismiss the appeal.  I decided that the appeal was taken too late, and dismissed it.  Moulin immediately went to Mr. Gorham, the clerk of the court, for a copy of the papers, insisting that there was something wrong in the decision.  Gorham asked him what he meant, and he replied that I had no right to send him out of court, and that there was something wrong in the matter, but he could not tell exactly what it was.  At this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:insinuation, Gorham told him to leave the office, and in such a tone, that he thought proper to go at once and not stand upon the order of his going.  The following year, after Mr. Delos Lake had been appointed United States District Attorney, Moulin went to his office to complain of Gorham and myself; but Lake, after listening to his story, told him to go away.  Two or three years afterwards he again presented himself to Lake and demanded that Judge Hoffman, Gorham, and myself should be prosecuted.  Lake drove him a second time from his office; and thereupon he went before the United States Grand Jury and complained of all four of us.  As the grand jury, after listening to his story for a while, dismissed him in disgust, he presented himself before their successors at a subsequent term and complained of them.  From the Federal Court he proceeded to the State tribunals; and first of all he went to the County Court of San Francisco with a large bundle of papers and detailed his grievances against the United States judges, clerks, district attorney and grand jury.  Judge Stanley, who was then county judge, after listening to Moulin's story, told the bailiff to take possession of the papers, and when he had done so, directed him to put them into the stove, where they were soon burned to ashes.  Moulin then complained of Stanley.  At the same time, one of the city newspapers, the "Evening Bulletin," made some comments upon his ridiculous and absurd proceedings, and Moulin at once sued the editors.  He also brought suit against the District Judge, District Attorney and his assistant, myself, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:clerk of the court, the counsel against him in the suit with the steamship company and its agents, and numerous other parties who had been connected with his various legal movements.  And whenever the United States Grand Jury met, he besieged it with narratives of his imaginary grievances; and, when they declined to listen to him, he complained of them.  The courts soon became flooded with his voluminous and accumulated complaints against judges, clerks, attorneys, jurors, editors, and, in fact, everybody who had any connection with him, however remote, who refused to listen to them and accede to his demands.  By this course Moulin attracted a good deal of attention, and an inquiry was suggested and made as to whether he was <HI REND="italics">compos mentis</HI>
114.sgm:.  The parties who made the inquiry reported that he was not insane, but was actuated by a fiendish malignity, a love of notoriety and the expectation of extorting money by blackmail.  For years--indeed until September, 1871--he continued to besiege and annoy the grand juries of the United States courts with his imaginary grievances, until he became an intolerable nuisance.  His exemption from punishnment had emboldened him to apply to the officers of the court--the judges, clerks, and jurors--the most offensive and insulting language.  Papers filled with his billingsgate were scattered all through the rooms of the court, on the desks of the judges, and on the seats of jurors and spectators.  It seemed impossible, under existing law, to punish him, for his case did not seem to fall within the class of contempts for which it provided.  But in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:September of 1871 his insolence carried him beyond the limits of impunity.  In that month he came to the United States Circuit Court, where Judge Sawyer (then United States Circuit Judge) and myself were sitting, and asked that the grand jury which was about to be discharged might be detained; as he proposed to have us indicted for corruption, and commenced reading a long string of vituperative and incoherent charges of criminal conduct.  The proceeding was so outrageous that we could not overlook it.  We accordingly adjudged him guilty of contempt, fined him five hundred dollars, and ordered him to be committed to prison until the fine should be paid.  Whilst in prison, and not long after his commitment, he was informed that upon making a proper apology for his conduct, he would be discharged.  Instead, however, of submitting to this course, he commenced writing abusive articles to the newspapers, and sending petitions to the Legislature charging us with arbitrary and criminal conduct.  His articles were of such a character as to create quite erroneous impressions of our action.  The newspapers, not waiting to ascertain the facts, at first took sides with him and assailed us.  These attacks, of course, had no effect upon the man's case; but, after he had remained in prison for several weeks, on understanding that his health was infirm, and being satisfied that he had been sufficiently punished, we ordered his discharge.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE HASTINGS MALIGNITY.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>WHILST the Moulin matter was in progress, an individual by the name of William Hastings was practising before the United States Courts.  He had been, as I am told, a sailor, and was then what is known as a "sailor's lawyer."  He was a typical specimen of that species of the profession called, in police court parlance, "shysters."  He was always commencing suits for sailors who had wrongs to redress, and particularly for steerage passengers who complained that they had not had sufficient accommodations and proper fare.  He generally took their cases on speculation, and succeeded very often in forcing large sums from vessels libelled, as he was generally careful to bring his actions so as to arrest the vessels on the eve of their departure, when the payment of a few hundred dollars was a much cheaper mode of proceeding for the captains than detention even for a few days.</p><P>But in one of his suits in the United States District Court, in the year 1869, brought for a steerage passenger against a vessel from Australia, the captain declined to be blackmailed and defended himself.  When the matter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:came on for hearing, Hastings was found to have no cause of action, and the case was thereupon dismissed by Judge Hoffman.  Hastings then appealed to the United States Circuit Court, and that court affirmed the judgment of the District Court.  This happened as I was about leaving for Europe; and I left supposing that I had heard the last of the case.</p><P>During my absence, Hastings moved Judge Hoffman, of the United States District Court, from whose decision the appeal had been taken, to vacate the decision of the United States Circuit Court.  This, of course, Judge Hoffman refused.  Hastings thereupon made a motion that my decision should be set aside, on the ground that it was rendered by fraud and corruption.  When Judge Hoffman became aware of the charges thus made, he was indignant and immediately cited Hastings before him to show cause why he should not be disbarred and punished for contempt.  Hastings refused to make any explanation or withdraw his offensive language; and thereupon Judge Hoffman expelled him from the bar and ordered his name to be stricken from the roll of attorneys.  I was then absent in Europe, and knew nothing whatever of the proceedings.</p><P>About this time Mr. George W. Julian, a member of Congress from Indiana, came to California and pretended to be a great friend of the settlers.  He obtained the confidence of that large class of the community, and especially of those who were known as the Suscol claimants.  These were the men who, upon the rejection <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:by the United States Supreme Court of the so-called Suscol grant, in Napa and Solano Counties, rushed in and squatted upon the most valuable land in the State.  The title to this land had previously been considered as good as any in California; it had been held valid by the local tribunals, and also by the Board of Land Commissioners and by the District Court of the United States.  On the strength of these confirmations the land had been divided into farms, upon which, besides cultivated fields, there were numerous orchards, vineyards, gardens, and two cities, each of which had been the capital of the State.  The farms and city lots had been sold, in good faith, to purchasers at full value.  But when the question came before the United States Supreme Court, and it appeared that the grant had been made to General Vallejo, in consideration of military services, and for moneys advanced to the Mexican government, and not for colonization purposes, it was held that there was no authority under the Mexican laws for such a disposition of the public domain, and that the grant was, therefore, invalid.  At the same time Judge Grier filed a dissenting opinion, in which he expressed a hope that Congress would not allow those who had purchased in good faith from Vallejo, and expended their money in improving the land, to be deprived of it.  Congress at once acted upon the suggestion thus made and passed an act allowing the grantees of Vallejo to purchase the lands occupied by them at a specified sum per acre.  Mr. John B. Frisbie, Vallejo's son-in-law, who had bought and sold large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:quantities, took immediate steps to secure himself and his grantees by purchasing the lands and obtaining patents for them.  In the meanwhile the squatters had located themselves all over the property; most of them placing small shanties on the land in the night-time, near the houses, gardens, and vineyards, and on cultivated fields of the Vallejo grantees.  They then filed claims in the Land Office as pre-emptioners, under the general land laws of the United States, and insisted that, as their settlements were previous to the act of Congress, their rights to the land were secure.  In this view Julian, when he came to California, encouraged them, and, as was generally reported and believed, in consideration of a portion of the land to be given to him in case of success, undertook to defend their possessions.<ANCHOR ID="n16-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1">See Exhibit L, in Appendix.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>When Frisbie applied, under the provisions of the act of Congress, for a patent to the land, a man named Whitney, one of the squatters, protested against its issue, on the ground that under the pre-emption laws he, Whitney, having settled upon the land, had acquired a vested right, of which Congress could not deprive him.  But the Land Department took a different view of the matter and issued the patent to Frisbie.  Whitney thereupon commenced a suit against Frisbie in the Supreme Court of the District of Columbia to have him declared a trustee of the land thus patented, and to compel him, as such trustee, to execute a conveyance to the complainant.  The Supreme Court of the District of Columbia decided the case <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:in favor of Whitney, and ordered Frisbie to execute a conveyance; but on appeal to the Supreme Court the decision was reversed; and it was held that a pre-emptioner did not acquire any vested right as against the United States by making his settlement, nor until he had complied with all the requirements of the law, including payment of the purchase-money; and that until then Congress could reserve the land from settlement, appropriate it to the uses of the government, or make any other disposition thereof which it pleased.  The court, therefore, adjudged that the Suscol act was valid, that the purchasers from Vallejo had the first right of entry, and that Frisbie was accordingly the owner of the land purchased by him.  Soon after the decision was rendered Julian rose in his seat in the House of Representatives and denounced it as a second Dred Scott decision, and applied to the members of the court remarks that were anything but complimentary.  It so happened that previous to this decision a similar suit had been decided in favor of Frisbie by the Supreme Court of California, in which a very able and elaborate opinion was rendered by the Chief Justice.  I did not see the opinion until long after it was delivered, and had nothing whatever to do with it; but in some way or other, utterly inexplicable to me, it was rumored that I had been consulted by the Chief Justice with respect to that case, and that the decision had been made through my instrumentality.  With this absurd rumor Hastings, after he had been disbarred by Judge Hoffman, went on to Washington.  There he joined Julian; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:and after concocting a long series of charges against Judge Hoffman and myself, he placed them in Julian's hands, who took charge of them with alacrity.  The two worthies were now to have their vengeance--Hastings for his supposed personal grievances and Julian for the Suscol decision, which injured his pocket.</p><P>These charges on being signed by Hastings were presented to Congress by Julian; and at his request they were referred to the Judiciary Committee.  That committee investigated them, considered the whole affair a farce, and paid no further attention to it.  But the next year Mr. Holman, of Indiana, who succeeded Julian, the latter having failed of a re-election, re-introduced Hastings' memorial at Julian's request and had it referred to the Judiciary Committee, with express instructions to report upon it.  Hastings appeared for the second time before that committee and presented a long array of denunciatory statements, in which Judge Hoffman, myself, and others were charged with all sorts of misdemeanors.  The committee permitted him to go to any length he pleased, untrammelled by any rules of evidence; and he availed himself of the license to the fullest extent.  There was hardly an angry word that had been spoken by a disappointed or malicious litigant against whom we had ever decided, that Hastings did not rake up and reproduce; and there was hardly an epithet or a term of vilification which he did not in some manner or other manage to lug into his wholesale charges.  As a specimen of his incoherent and wild ravings, he charged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:that "the affairs of the federal courts for the District of California were managed principally in the interests of foreign capitalists and their co-conspirators, and that the judges thereof appeared to be under the control of said foreign capitalists, and that the said courts and the process thereof were being used or abused to deprive the government of the United States and the citizens thereof of the property that legally and equitably belonged to them respectively, and to transfer the same, in violation of law and through a perversion of public justice, to said foreign capitalists and their confederates and co-conspirators, and that nearly the whole of the sovereign powers of the State were under the control and management of said foreign capitalists and their confederates and co-conspirators;" and he alleged that he "was aware of the existence in the United States of a well-organized, oath-bound band of confederated public officials who are in league with the subjects of foreign powers, and who conspire against the peace, prosperity, and best interests of the United States, and who prey upon and plunder the government of the United States and the city and county governments thereof, and also upon private citizens, and who now are carrying into practice gigantic schemes of plunder through fraud, usurpation, and other villainy, in order to enrich themselves, bankrupt the nation, and destroy our government, and that their power is so great that they can and do obstruct the administration of public justice, corrupt its fountains, and paralyze to some extent the sovereign powers of the government of the United <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:States and the people thereof."  The Judiciary Committee after having patiently listened to this rigmarole, absurd and ludicrous as it was, unanimously reported that Hasting's memorial should be laid upon the table and the committee discharged from any further consideration of the subject.  The House adopted the report, and, so far as Congress was concerned, there the matter dropped.  But in the meanwhile it had been telegraphed all over the country that articles of impeachment were pending against the judges, and sensational newspaper articles appeared in different parts of the country.  Some expressed regret that the conduct of the judges had been of a character to necessitate such proceedings.  Others said it was not to be wondered at that the judicial ermine should be soiled in a country of such loose morals as California.  Still others thought it no more than proper to impeach a few of the judges, in order to teach the remainder of them a salutary lesson.  These articles were paraded in large type and with the most sensational headings.</p><P>When the action of the House on the memorial was announced, Hastings and Julian became furious.  It then appeared that the only charge which had made any impression upon the minds of the committee was that relating to Moulin, the Frenchman.  Three, indeed, of the members, (Messrs. Voorhees, of Indiana, Potter, of New York, and Peters, of Maine,) said it was a shame and disgrace that such ridiculous and monstrous twaddle should be listened to for a moment; but a majority considered it their duty, under the order of reference, to hear the matter patiently.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:They had, therefore, allowed Hastings the widest latitude and listened to everything that his malice could invent.</p><P>As a comical conclusion to these extraordinary proceedings, Hastings commenced a suit in the U.S. Circuit Court for the State of New York against the Judiciary Committee for dismissing his memorial.  Being a non-resident he was required by that court to give security for costs, and as that was not given the action was dismissed.  This result was so distasteful to him that he presented a petition to the Chief Justice of the U.S. Supreme Court, stating that Judge Hunt had too much to do with churches, banks, and rings, and asking that some other judge might be appointed to hold the court.  The petition was regarded as unique in its character, and caused a great deal of merriment.  But the Chief Justice sent it back, with an answer that he had no jurisdiction of the matter.  After this Hastings took up his residence in New York, and at different times worried the judges there by suits against them--Judge Blatchford, among others--generally charging in his peculiar way a conspiracy between them and others to injure him and the rest of mankind.</p><P>The above was written upon my dictation in the summer of 1877.  In November of that year Hastings again appeared at Washington and applied to a Senator to move his admission to the Supreme Court.  The Senator inquired if he was acquainted with any of the Judges, and was informed in reply of that gentleman's proceedings against <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:myself; whereupon the Senator declined to make the motion.  Hastings then presented to the House of Representatives a petition to be relieved from his allegiance as a citizen of the United States.  As illustrative of the demented character of the man's brain, some portions of the petition are given.  After setting forth his admission to the Supreme Court of California as an attorney and counsellor-at-law, and his taking the oath then required, he proceeded to state that on the 6th of November, 1877, he entered the chamber of the Supreme Court of the United States to apply for admission as an attorney and counsellor of that court; that he was introduced by a friend to a Senator, with a request that the Senator would move his admission; that the Senator asked him if he knew a certain Justice of the Supreme Court, and upon being informed that he did, and that his relations with said Justice were not friendly, as he had endeavored to get him impeached, and that the damaging evidence he produced against such Justice had been secreted and covered up by the Judiciary Committee of the House, whom he had accordingly sued, the petition continued as follows: "Whereupon said Senator replied, I have a cause to argue as counsel before this court this morning, and I would, therefore, prefer not to move your admission.  Said Senator then and there arose and took his seat in front of the bench of said court; and your petitioner remained in said U.S. Supreme Court until one application for admission was made and granted on motion of one S.P. Nash, of Tweed-Sweeney Ring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:settlement fame [thereby demonstrating poetic injustice], and until the Chief Justice of the United States--shadow not shade of Selden--called the first case on the docket for that day, and a moment or two after the argument of said cause commenced, your petitioner arose and left the court-room of said United States Supreme Court, (to which the genius of a Marshall and a Story has bid a long farewell,) and as your petitioner journeyed towards his hotel, your petitioner soliloquized thus: "Senator W--is evidently afraid of Justice--, with whom I have had a difficulty, and he possesses neither the manly independence of a freeman, nor moral nor physical courage, and he is, therefore, an improper person (possibly infamous) for such a high and responsible position, and my rights as a citizen are not safe in the keeping of such a poltroon and conniving attorney, and he is probably disqualified to hold the high and responsible office of Senator of the United States--that he improperly accepts fees from clients, possibly in part for the influence which his exalted position as Senator gives him as counsel for parties having cases before the U.S. Supreme Court, and which practice is wholly inconsistent with the faithful, impartial performance of his sworn duty as such Senator; and by thus accepting fees he has placed himself in a position where his personal interests conflict with the obligations of his oath of office; while the Justices of the Supreme Court are, I conceive, derelict in the performance of their sworn duty, for permitting such practices to be inaugurated and continued."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>"Cowardice taints the character with moral turpitude; and I believe the facts related above show that said Senator is a coward; at all events he lacks moral courage, and is afraid of the Justices of the United States Supreme Court, whose judge the Senator-attorney of the court becomes in case of trial of any of said Justices by impeachment; surely this is one unclean body incestuously holding illicit commerce with another unclean body, and both become interchangeably soiled, and too impure to touch the spotless robes of the judicial ermine; still, as this government has ceased to be a government of law and justice, and has become a foul and unclean machine of corrupt compromises, carried on by colluding and conniving shyster bartering attorneys, the practice of said Supreme Court of the United States, above referred to, is strictly in accord therewith."</p><P>The petition continued in a similar strain, and wound up by asking the passage of a concurrent resolution of the Houses releasing him from his allegiance to the United States!</p></DIV>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.</HEAD>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT A.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>[From the New York <HI REND="italics">Evening Post</HI>
114.sgm: of November 13th, 1849.]</p><P>Among the passengers leaving in the Crescent City to-day is Stephen J. Field, Esq., of this city, brother and late law-partner of D. D. Field, Esq., one of the Commissioners of the Code of Practice.</p><P>Mr. Field is on his way to San Francisco, where he proposes to practise his profession, and take up his future residence.  If he should realize either the hopes or the expectations of the numerous friends he leaves behind, he will achieve an early and desirable distinction in the promising land of his adoption.</p></DIV>
114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT B.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>Mr. William H. Parks, of Marysville, has always asserted that my election as Alcalde was owing to a wager for a dinner made by him with a friend.  He was at the time engaged in transporting goods to the mines from the landing at Nye's Ranch on the Yuba River, called Yubaville, and arriving at the latter place whilst the election was going on he made the wager that I would be elected, and voted all his teamsters, numbering eleven, for me.  As I had a majority of only nine, he claims that he had the honor of giving me my first office.  The claim must be allowed, unless the person with whom he wagered offset this number, or at least some of the teamsters, by votes for my opponent.</p><P>After the election Mr. Parks introduced himself to me, and from that time to this he has been a warm and steadfast friend.  He afterwards settled in Sutter County, but now resides in Marysville.  He has amassed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:a handsome fortune, and takes an interest in all public affairs.  He has represented his county as a Senator in the Legislature of the State.  He is a gentleman of high character and has the confidence and respect of the community.</p><P>My opponent for the office of Alcalde was Mr. C. B. Dodson, from Illinois.  I afterwards met him only once or twice in California, and knew little of his history.  But when I was a member of the Electoral Commission, in February of this year (1877), a copy of a paper published in Geneva, Illinois--the <HI REND="italics">Republican</HI>
114.sgm:, of the 10th of that month--was sent to me, containing the following account of him, from which it appears that he, too, has lived a life of strange vicissitudes and stirring adventure:<LB>REMINISCENCES.</p><P>An account of the various positions of the selected arbitrators says that in 1850 Judge Field was elected Alcalde and Recorder of Marysville, California.  Judge Field's competitor for the position was our townsman, Capt. C. B. Dodson, who was defeated by nine votes.  As there is no doubt that had the Captain gained the position of Alcalde he would have risen as his competitor did, to various judicial positions, and finally to the arbitrator's seat, these nine votes must be considered as the only reasons why Geneva does not number one of her citizens among the arbitrators for the highest of the world's official positions.  Among the votes polled for our friend Dodson on that occasion was that of Macaulay, one of the family of the famous historian of England's greatest days and proudest times.</p><P>The Captain has been a natural and inveterate pioneer, and few citizens of the State have figured more prominently or proudly in its early annals.  In 1834, forty-three years ago, Mr. Dodson came to dispute with the aboriginal Pottawatomies the possession of the Fox River valley.  White faces were rare in those days, and scarcely a squatter's cabin rose among the Indian lodges.  The Captain built the first saw-mill on the river, and he and Col. Lyon were the hardy spirits about whom the early settlers clustered for encouragement and advice.</p><P>In 1837 he was employed by the government to superintend the removal of the Indians to Council Bluffs and Kansas, and their successful emigration, as well as their uniform good will toward the whites prior to their removal, were largely due to his sagacity and influence among them.</p><P>When Capt. Sutter first found the yellow gold gleaming in the dirt of his mill-race, and all the world joined in a mad rush to the mines, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:venturesome spirit of Capt. Dodson led him to press forward with the first, and he was a "forty-niner," that pride of the old Californians.  In that surging crowd of wild adventurers from the ends of the earth, the Captain was, as he has been among the early pioneers of Illinois, a directing and controlling spirit.  Though he failed in his judicial aspirations for Alcalde, and Judge Field succeeded, yet his continued exertions and marked influence caused him to leave a name richly associated with all the early history of Marysville and vicinity.</p><P>When the war broke out, Mr. Dodson was among the very first to proffer his services, and he raised the first company of cavalry which went to the front from Kane County.</p><P>The Captain is not an old man yet in health and vigor, although an "old settler" in varied and numerous experiences.  His name is marked in unmistakable characters on every prominent event of the early settlement of Northern Illinois, and blended and associated with all the pioneer way-marks of California.  A friend and companion of all the great Illinoians of the generation which is now passing into old age, he has not yet ceased to be a spirit actively mingling in all the affairs of the present times.  But we only started to tell of his contest with Field, not to write an eulogium on the Captain, for here where he is known it is better pronounced in his record, which lies in the memories of his friends.</p></DIV>
114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT C.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Oath of Office as Alcalde</HI>
114.sgm:.<LB>STATE OF CALIFORNIA, SACRAMENTO DISTRICT.<HSEP>ss.<LB>SACRAMENTO CITY, <HI REND="italics">January 22d</HI>
114.sgm:, 1850.</p><P>Personally appeared before me Stephen J. Field, First Alcalde of Yubaville, in the District of Sacramento, and made oath that he would discharge the duties of the office of First Alcalde as aforesaid with faithfulness and fidelity to the best of his ability, and that he would support the Constitution of the United States and the constitution of the State of California.<LB>R. A. WILSON, <HI REND="italics">Judge of 1st Instance, Sacramento District</HI>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT D.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>The following are the orders of the District Court mentioned in the Narrative.  <HI REND="italics">Order imprisoning and fining Mr. Field for alleged contempt of court</HI>
114.sgm:.<LB>DISTRICT COURT,<LB>EIGHTH JUDICIAL DISTRICT,<LB>COUNTY OF YUBA.</p><P>At a term of said District Court held at Marysville, county of Yuba, on the 7th of June, 1850, present, Hon. Wm. R. Turner, Judge, the following proceeding was had:  <HI REND="italics">Ordered</HI>
114.sgm:, That Stephen J. Field be imprisoned forty-eight hours and fined five hundred dollars for contempt of court.  <HI REND="italics">Order expelling Messrs. Field, Goodwin, and Mulford from the Bar</HI>
114.sgm:.<LB>DISTRICT COURT,<LB>EIGHTH JUDICIAL DISTRICT,<LB>COUNTY OF YUBA.</p><P>At a term of said court held at Marysville, on the 10th of June, 1850, present, Hon. William R. Turner, Judge, the following proceeding was had:</p><P>Whereas, Messrs. Field, Goodwin, and Mulford, having set at defiance the authority of this court, and having vilified the court and denounced its proceedings, the said Field, Goodwin, and Mulford are hereby, by order of the court, expelled from the bar of the same.  <HI REND="italics">Order imprisoning and fining Judge Haun for releasing Mr. Field from imprisonment upon a writ of habeas corpus, and directing that the order to imprison Mr. Field be enforced</HI>
114.sgm:.<LB>DISTRICT COURT,<LB>EIGHTH JUDICIAL DISTRICT,<LB>COUNTY OF YUBA.</p><P>At a term of said District Court held at Marysville, county of Yuba, on the 10th of June, 1850, present, Hon. Wm. R. Turner, Judge, the following proceeding was had:</p><P>Whereas, Judge Haun having, in defiance of the authority of this court, and in violation of the law, obstructed and prevented the execution of an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:order of this court to imprison Mr. Field for a contempt offered to the court while in session, by releasing the said Field from the custody of the sheriff; the said Haun is hereby sentenced to forty-eight hours' imprisonment and to pay a fine of fifty dollars.</p><P>The sheriff will enforce the order of the court to imprison Mr. Field for forty-eight hours.</p></DIV>
114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT E.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Record of Proceedings in the Court of Sessions, mentioned in the Narrative</HI>
114.sgm:.<LB>Court of Sessions of Yuba County.<LB>    Met at Marysville, June 10th, A.D. 1850, at 10 o'clock A.M., and was duly opened by R. B. Buchanan, sheriff of the county.</p><P>Present, Hon. H. P. Haun, County Judge, F. W. Barnard, Associate Justice.<LB>IN THE MATTER OF STEPHEN J. FIELD.<HSEP>Application for Habeas Corpus.</p><P>On the reading of the petition of the applicant, duly authenticated by his oath, it is ordered that the prayer of the petitioner be granted, and that R. B. Buchanan, sheriff of Yuba County, or any person acting under him and having said Field in custody, bring the said Field into court forthwith, to be dealt with according to law.</p><P>In pursuance of the above order, the said Field came into court, and proceeded to address the court on the matter touching the cause of his confinement, and while making his remarks, and previous to the close thereof, and while the court was in session, R. B. Buchanan, sheriff of Yuba County, at the head of fifty men, entered the court, and stated that he came there for the purpose and with the intent to seize H. P. Haun, County Judge as aforesaid, and place him in close confinement, under and by virtue of a certain order or decree made by one William R. Turner, Judge of the Eighth Judicial District of the State of California.</p><P>The court informed the said Sheriff Buchanan that it was holding its regular term, and that order must be preserved while it was in session.  The said Sheriff Buchanan then left the court, whereupon the business before the court was again resumed.</p><P>At the expiration of some five minutes, the said R. B. Buchanan, as aforesaid, re-entered the court, and stated that the said H. P. Haun, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:County Judge as aforesaid, must leave the court and go with him, as he was peremptorily ordered by William R. Turner, the Judge as aforesaid, to arrest the said H. P. Haun and keep him in close confinement for the space of forty-eight hours.</p><P>R. B. Buchanan was here notified that he was violating the laws of the land, and that he would be fined if he persisted in disturbing the session of the court.  The reply of said Buchanan was "that he could not be trifled with," and immediately seized the said H. P. Haun, County Judge as aforesaid, by the arm, and attempted to drag him from the room where the court was in session.  Whereupon a fine of two hundred dollars was then and there imposed upon the said R. B. Buchanan for a contempt of court.</p><P>The said R. B. Buchanan then and there called upon the fifty persons ordered out by him as his posse to take hold of the said H. P. Haun, and take him from the court.  But the persons in attendance, conceiving the order to arrest the Hon. H. P. Haun to be illegal and unjustifiable, refused to assist the sheriff in the execution of his illegal order.  The sheriff then retired, and the court was then adjourned to 3 o'clock P.M.</p><P>Court met pursuant to adjournment.  Court adjourned to to-morrow morning at 9 o'clock.</p><P>I hereby certify the above to be a true transcript of the record of the proceedings of the Court of Sessions on the 10th day of June, A.D. 1850.  Witness E. D. Wheeler, clerk of the Court of Sessions of Yuba County, California, with the seal of the court affixed, this 26th day of December, A.D. 1850.<LB>[L.S.]<HSEP>E. D. WHEELER, <HI REND="italics">Clerk</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>The records of the District Court show the following entry made the same day, June 10, 1850:</p><P>"A communication was received from H. P. Haun, stating `that if he was guilty of obstructing the order of the court in releasing Field, he did it ignorantly, not intending any contempt by so doing.'  Whereupon the court ordered that H. P. Haun be released from confinement, and his fine be remitted."</p><P>The following is taken from the deposition of Mr. Wheeler, the clerk of the court, before the committee of the Assembly to whom was referred the petition of citizens of Yuba County for the impeachment of Judge Turner:  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:</p><P>E. D. Wheeler,<ANCHOR ID="na-1">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: being duly sworn, says: I reside in Marysville, Yuba County; I am the county clerk of that county; I know Wm. R. Turner, judge of the Eighth Judicial District; I am clerk of his court in and for Yuba County.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-1">Mr. Wheeler is at present (1877) District Judge of the Nineteenth District of the State.</NOTE>
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114.sgm:<P>Q.  Who took the place of Mr. Field after he left?</p><P>Ans.  John V. Berry, Esq.</p><P>Q.  Were you in court on the 10th day of June?</p><P>Ans.  I was.</p><P>Q.  Were any members of the bar expelled by Judge Turner on that day?  And if so, please state who they were and whether they were in court at the time, and whether or not the order was made upon a hearing of the parties.</p><P>Ans.  There were three persons expelled, to wit: S. J. Field, S. B. Mulford, and J. O. Goodwin.  I do not recollect whether the parties were all in court at the time.  I am sure that Mr. Goodwin was in court.  There was no hearing had to my knowledge.</p><P>Q.  After the order imprisoning Mr. Field, on the 7th of June and before the 10th, were any steps taken by Mr. Field to be discharged on a writ of habeas corpus?</p><P>Ans.  There were, and Mr. Field was discharged by the Judge of the County of Yuba.</p><P>Q.  What was done by Judge Turner with Judge Haun, the County Judge, in consequence of his discharging Mr. Field from imprisonment on the writ of habeas corpus?</p><P>Ans.  Judge Haun was fined fifty dollars by Judge Turner and ordered to be imprisoned forty-eight hours.  This was on the 10th of June, at the same time that the other gentlemen were expelled from the bar.</p><P>Q.  Did the Court of Sessions of Yuba County hold a session on that day?</p><P>Ans.  Yes.</p><P>Q.  Did you continue in the District Court or did you go to the Court of Sessions?</p><P>Ans.  I continued in the District Court.</p><P>Q.  Who made up the records of the Court of Sessions on that day?</p><P>Ans.  F. W. Barnard, one of the associate justices of the court.</p><P>Q.  Look at this paper and state whether it is a copy of the proceedings of that court on the 10th of June, certified by you as the clerk.</p><P>Ans.  It is.<ANCHOR ID="na-2">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-2">The record of the proceedings is printed above.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>Q.  Whilst you were in the District Court on that day did the sheriff of Yuba County give any information to the District Court about the Court of Sessions being in session?</p><P>Ans.  He did.</p><P>Q.  Did Judge Turner give any directions to the sheriff to arrest Judge Haun, notwithstanding he was holding his court?</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>Ans.  He did, and told the sheriff to put him in irons, if necessary to handcuff him.</p><P>Q.  Were any directions given about a posse?</p><P>Ans.  There were.  He told the sheriff to summon a posse forthwith and enforce the orders of the court.  He addressed two or three professional gamblers present and asked them if they would not join the posse to arrest Judge Haun.  Then the excitement became so great that several of the members of the bar requested him to adjourn the court; but before the court adjourned the Judge asked several of the members of the bar to join the posse; but they made excuses, whereupon the court adjourned.</p><P>Q.  Was the order entered on the records of the District Court, expelling Messrs. Field, Goodwin, and Mulford?</p><P>Ans.  It was.</p><P>Q.  What day was that order entered?</p><P>Ans.  On the 10th day of June.</p><P>Q.  Has that order ever been vacated on the records of the District Court?</p><P>Ans.  So far as it relates to Mr. Goodwin it has been vacated, but no further.</p><P>Q.  Has Mr. Field or Mr. Mulford ever been restored to the bar by the District Court since the order of expulsion on the 10th of June?</p><P>Ans.  No.</p></DIV>
114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT F.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P>The following is the petition to the Governor mentioned in the Narrative.  Of course the Governor possessed no power to suspend a judicial officer from office.  But at the time the petition was signed and sent to him the State had not been admitted into the Union, and Congress had not approved of the action of the people in calling a convention and framing a constitution; and it appeared very doubtful whether such approval would be given.  There was a general impression that in the meantime the Governor could exercise the power to remove and suspend officers of the State which the former governors under Mexico possessed, or were supposed to possess.  The petition, however, is none the less significant, as the expression of the opinions of the people of Marysville upon the conduct of Judge Turner.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">To His Excellency Peter H. Burnett, Governor of California</HI>
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114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT G.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Letter of Mr. Eaton, by whom the message mentioned in the Narrative was sent to Judge Turner</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>WEDNESDAY AFTERNOON, <HI REND="italics">Aug</HI>
114.sgm:. 7, '50.</p><P>DEAR JUDGE: I have given your message to Turner.  He does not like it much, and flared up considerably when I told him.  But it was no use.  I have made him understand that you do not want any personal difficulty with him, but that you are ready for him, and if he attacks you he will get badly hurt.  I will see you soon and explain.  Give him --.  You can always count on me.</p><P>Yours truly,<HSEP>IRA A. EATON.</p><P>The Narrative of Reminiscences was sent to a friend in San Francisco soon after it was printed, and was shown to Gen. A. M. Winn of that city.  He was in Marysville in 1850 and also gave Judge Turner to understand the line of conduct I intended to pursue.  The following letter has since been received from him.</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
114.sgm: 10 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
114.sgm:, '80.</p><P>FRIEND FIELD: In looking over the Early Reminiscences of California I was pleased with the faithful recital of your trouble with Judge Turner at Marysville in 1850.  Being there about that time I recollect to have met with Judge Turner and found him in a fighting rage, making threats of what he would do on meeting you.  Although I have not an exalted opinion of men's courage, when they talk so much about it, I thought he might put his threats into execution and warned you of approaching danger.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>The course you pursued was generally approved, and public opinion culminated in your favor.  You made many warm friends, though Turner and his friends were the more enraged in consequence of that fact.</p><P>With great respect, I am, as ever, your friend,</p><P>A. M. WINN.</p><P>Hon. STEPHEN J. FIELD, <HI REND="italics">Washington, D.C.</HI>
114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT H, No. I.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="na-3">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-3">By mistake, there are two Exhibits H; they are, therefore, marked No. I. and No. II.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>After the Narrative of Reminiscences was written, the Proceedings of the Assembly of California of 1851, on the petition of citizens of Yuba and Nevada Counties for the impeachment of Judge Turner, were published.  Annexed to them was a statement by the editor of the causes of the indefinite postponement of the matter.  They are there stated to be: 1st, That it was supposed that I had acquiesced in such a disposition of the case, because by the act concerning the courts of justice and judicial officers, Turner had been sent to the northern portion of the State, where he could do no harm; 2d, That the legislature did not wish to extend the session for the period which the trial of an impeachment would require; and, 3d, That the whole matter had become extremely distasteful to me.</p><P>A copy of this statement with the record of the proceedings was sent to the surviving members of the seven, mentioned in the Narrative, who voted for the indefinite postponement of the matter; and they wrote the replies which are given below as part of this exhibit.  They are preceded by a letter from a member, written soon after the vote was taken.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Letter of Mr. Bennett</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>HOUSE OF ASSEMBLY,</p><P>SAN JOSE, <HI REND="italics">April 23d</HI>
114.sgm:, 1851.</p><P>Hon. STEPHEN J. FIELD.</p><P>DR. SIR: I take pleasure in adopting this form to explain to you my vote upon the question put to the House in the final disposition of the case for the impeachment of Judge Turner.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<P>Had the House been called for a direct vote upon the question of impeachment, I should certainly have voted for the impeachment; but finding that some of the members thought the wishes of the citizens of Yuba County had been accomplished by the removal of Judge Turner from your district, and on that account would vote against the impeachment, I thought there was less injustice in postponing the whole matter indefinitely, than in coming to a direct vote.  I will also say that it was understood by many members that you would be satisfied with such a disposition.</p><P>I am very truly your friend,</p><P>F. C. BENNETT.</p><P>To the Hon. STEPHEN J. FIELD, <HI REND="italics">San Jose</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Letter of Mr. Merritt</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH, <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
114.sgm: 4 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
114.sgm:, 1879.</p><P>MY DEAR JUDGE:</p><P>Your letter of the 27th of April reached me day before yesterday, and the copy of the proceedings in the matter of the impeachment of W. R. Turner, on yesterday.  The editorial comments on the case, so far as I am concerned, are exactly correct.  I remember distinctly having voted for the indefinite postponement of the charges against Turner on the distinct understanding that you consented to it, or at least acquiesced, for the reasons:</p><P>1st, That Turner, by the passage of the bill concerning courts of justice, etc., had been sent to a district where he could do no harm and was out of the way; 2d, That you did not desire to extend the session of the Legislature; and, 3d, That the whole matter was extremely distasteful and disagreeable to you.  I remember further very distinctly, even after this great lapse of time, that I was very much astonished when you told me that I had voted under a misapprehension as to your views and wishes.  It is very certain that Turner would have been impeached had not a false report, as to your views and wishes on the subject, been industriously circulated among the members of the Assembly a short time before the vote was taken.  That report alone saved Turner from impeachment.</p><P>Very truly your friend,</p><P>SAML. A. MERRITT.</p><P>Hon. S. J. FIELD, <HI REND="italics">Sup. Ct. U.S</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Letter of Mr. McCorkle</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>WASHINGTON CITY, D.C., <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
114.sgm: 8 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:yourself and others, <HI REND="italics">even though the report were true</HI>
114.sgm: that you and your constituents were satisfied with his simple removal from your judicial district.</p><P>Respectfully and truly yours, &amp;c.,</p><P>JOS. W. McCORKLE.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Letter of Mr. Bradford</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>SPRINGFIELD, ILL., <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
114.sgm: 8 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
114.sgm:, 1879.</p><P>JUDGE FIELD.</p><P>MY DEAR FRIEND: Yours of the 27th April should have been answered ere this, but before doing so I desired to get all the reminders that I could.  I looked carefully over the journal.  All that I had recollected in the whole matter was that I had an intense feeling in favor of sustaining your position, and when you informed me that I had voted to dismiss the proceedings I was profoundly astonished.  I thought you must be mistaken until I saw the journal<HSEP>Some very satisfactory assurance must have been given me that such vote would be satisfactory to you, and I only wonder that I did not have the assurance verified....I assume that the Editor is correct in the explanation as given.</p><P>Very truly,<HSEP>J. S. BRADFORD.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Letter of Mr. Carr</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
114.sgm: 15 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
114.sgm:, 1879.</p><P>MY DEAR JUDGE: I have received your letter and a printed copy of the record of the proceedings of the Assembly of California of 1851, in the matter of the impeachment of William R. Turner, Judge of the then Eighth Judicial District of the State.  In reply, I have to say, that the statement of the Editor as to the vote on the motion to indefinitely postpone the proceedings is correct, so far as I am concerned.</p><P>It was distinctly understood by me, and to my knowledge by other members of the Assembly, that you had consented to such postponement, it being explained that the postponement was not to be taken as an approval of the Judge's conduct.  On no other ground could the motion have been carried.  If the vote had been taken on the charges made, articles of impeachment against the Judge would undoubtedly have been ordered.</p><P>Your consent to the postponement was understood to have been given, because of the change in the judicial districts by an act introduced into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:the Assembly by yourself, under which Judge Turner was sent to a district in the northern part of the State, where there was at the time scarcely any legal business, and which was removed to a great distance from the district in which you resided, and because of the general desire manifested by others to bring the session of the Legislature to a speedy close.  The impeachment of the Judge would have necessitated a great prolongation of the session.</p><P>No member of the Assembly justified or excused the atrocious and tyrannical conduct of the Judge towards yourself and others.</p><P>I am, very truly, yours,</p><P>JESSE D. CARR.</p><P>Hon. STEPHEN J. FIELD.</p></DIV>
114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT H, No. II.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Letter of Judge Gordon N. Mott giving the particulars of the difficulty with Judge Barbour</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">Apr.</HI>
114.sgm: 28 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
114.sgm:, 1876.</p><P>Hon. STEPHEN J. FIELD.</p><P>DEAR SIR: Your letter of the eleventh instant, in which you requested me to give you, in writing, an account of the affair between yourself and Judge W. T. Barbour, at Marysville in 1853, was duly received.</p><P>The facts in relation to that unpleasant affair are as fresh in my memory as if they had happened yesterday; and I give them to you the more willingly for the reason that you incurred the spite and malice of Judge Barbour, by acts of personal and professional kindness to me, which gave him no just or reasonable cause of offence; and though the following statement of facts will place the character of Judge Barbour, now deceased, in a very bad and even ludicrous light, the events in mind are nevertheless a part of the history of our early days in California, and I see no impropriety in complying with your request.  The facts are as follows: You and I were walking together along D street in the city of Marysville, when we met Judge Barbour, who, after using some offensive and insolent remarks, gave you a verbal challenge to meet him in the way resorted to by gentlemen for the settlement of their personal difficulties.  You accepted the challenge instantly, and referred him to me, as your friend, who would act for you in settling the preliminaries of a hostile meeting.  In half an hour I was called upon by Hon. Chas. S.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:Fairfax as the friend of Judge Barbour.  He said Judge Barbour had told him that Judge Field had challenged him to mortal combat, and requested him to meet me for the purpose of arranging the terms of the meeting between them.  I told Mr. Fairfax at once that such was not my understanding of the matter; that I was present when the challenge was given by Judge Barbour and accepted by Judge Field.  After further consultation with you we agreed that it was better for you to accept the false position in which Judge Barbour seemed determined to place you, and "to fight it out on that line," than longer submit to the insolence and persecution of a bitter and unscrupulous adversary.  Mr. Fairfax then claimed, in behalf of Judge Barbour, that, as he was the party challenged, he had the right to the choice of weapons, and the time, place, and manner of the combat; to which I assented.  He then stated that Judge Barbour proposed that the meeting should take place that evening in a room twenty feet square; that each party was to be armed with a Colt's navy revolver and a <HI REND="italics">Bowie-knife</HI>
114.sgm:; that they should be stationed at opposite sides of the room, and should fire at the word, and advance at pleasure, and finish the conflict with the knives.  I told Mr. Fairfax that the terms proposed by his principal were unusual and inconsistent with the "code," and that I could not consent to them or countenance a conflict so unprecedented and barbarous.  Mr. Fairfax agreed with me that Judge Barbour had no right to insist upon the terms proposed, and said that he would consult with him and get him to modify his proposition.  Upon doing so he soon returned, and stated that Judge Barbour insisted upon the terms he had proposed as his ultimatum, and requested me to go with him and call on Judge Barbour, which I did.  I had now come to the conclusion that Barbour was playing the role of the bravo and bully, and that he did not intend to fight, and resolved on the course that I would pursue with him.  Mr. Fairfax and myself then called on Judge Barbour, and I repeated what I had said to Mr. Fairfax, adding that it would be shameful for two gentlemen, occupying such positions as they in society, to fall upon each other with knives like butchers or savages, and requesting him to dispense with the knives, which he still refused to do.  I then looked him straight in the eye and said, well, sir, if you insist upon those terms, we shall accept.  I saw his countenance change instantly.  "His coward lips did from their color fly;" and he finally stammered out that he would "waive the knife."  Without consulting you, I had determined that if Barbour still insisted upon a conflict with Bowie-knives I would take your place, believing that he would not have any advantage over me in any fight he could make; and knowing, moreover, that you had involved yourself in the difficulty on my account, I thought it only just for me to do so.  But it was demonstrated in the sequel that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:returned with us to Marysville, while Judge Barbour went on his way to Sacramento.  Thus, what threatened in its inception to be a sanguinary tragedy, ended in a ridiculous farce.  The determined and resolute stand which you assumed in this affair with Judge Barbour, saved you from any farther insolence or persecution from men of his class.</p><P>This letter has been drawn out to a most tedious length, and yet there are many circumstances connected with our early life and times in Marysville that I would add but for fear of trying your patience.</p><P>Please write to me on receipt of this, and tell me how my memory of the facts contained in this letter agrees with yours.</p><P>Very respectfully and truly your friend,</p><P>GORDON N. MOTT.</p></DIV>
114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT I.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Letter of L. Martin, Esq., the friend of Judge Barbour in his street attack</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>MARYSVILLE, <HI REND="italics">Tuesday, March</HI>
114.sgm: 21, '54.</p><P>DEAR JUDGE: I was glad to hear a few days ago from our friend Filkins that the trouble between you and Judge Barbour had been settled, and that the hatchet was buried.</p><P>I wish now to explain my connection with the assault made upon you about a year ago by Barbour.<ANCHOR ID="na-4">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: You have always appeared to think me in some way implicated in that affair, because I was seen by you at that time not far off from him.  The facts are these: Judge Barbour told me the night before that he expected to have a street fight with you, and wanted me to accompany him.  I had heard of his conduct in the affair of the intended duel in Sutter County, and knew there was bad blood between you, but I was astonished at his saying there was going to be a difficulty between you in the street.  I consented to accompany him, but I supposed of course you had received notice of his purpose, and that there would be no unfair advantage taken by him.  I was, therefore, surprised when I saw you in front of your office with your arms partly filled with small pieces of board, apparently to kindle a fire.  Barbour's drawing a pistol upon you under these circumstances, and calling upon you to draw and defend yourself, was not what we call at the South very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:chivalric.  It was not justified by me then, and never has been in any way or manner, and I told him he had acted badly.  I was glad to hear you defy him as you did, and dare him to shoot.  I reckon he is not very proud of his conduct.  I have never approved of his action, and should never have accompanied him had I believed or suspected he had not given you notice of his purpose.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-4">It was February 21, 1853.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>With great respect I am very truly yours,</p><P>Hon. JUDGE FIELD.<HSEP>L. MARTIN.</p></DIV>
114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT J.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sections four, five, and seven of the act entitled "An act to expedite the settlement of titles to lands in the State of California," approved July</HI>
114.sgm: 1 <HI REND="italics">st</HI>
114.sgm:, 1864.</p><P>SEC. 4.  <HI REND="italics">And be it further enacted</HI>
114.sgm:, That whenever the district judge of any one of the district courts of the United States for California is interested in any land, the claim to which, under the said act of March third, eighteen hundred and fifty-one, is pending before him on appeal from the board of commissioners created by said act, the said district court shall order the case to be transferred to the Circuit Court of the United States for California, which court shall thereupon take jurisdiction and determine the same.  The said district courts may also order a transfer to the said circuit court of any other cases arising under said act, pending before them, affecting the title to lands within the corporate limits of any city or town, and in such cases both the district and circuit judges may sit.</p><P>SEC. 5.  <HI REND="italics">And be it further enacted</HI>
114.sgm:, That all the right and title of the United States to the lands within the corporate limits of the city of San Francisco, as defined in the act incorporating said city, passed by the Legislature of the State of California, on the fifteenth of April, one thousand eight hundred and fifty-one, are hereby relinquished and granted to the said city and its successors, for the uses and purposes specified in the ordinance of said city, ratified by an act of the Legislature of the said State, approved on the eleventh of March, eighteen hundred and fifty-eight, entitled "An act concerning the city of San Francisco, and to ratify and confirm certain ordinances of the common council of said city," there being excepted from this relinquishment and grant all sites or other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:parcels of lands which have been, or now are, occupied by the United States for military, naval, or other public uses, [or such other sites or parcels as may hereafter be designated by the President of the United States, within one year after the rendition to the General Land-Office, by the surveyor-general, of an approved plat of the exterior limits of San Francisco, as recognized in this section, in connection with the lines of the public surveys:  <HI REND="italics">And provided</HI>
114.sgm:, That the relinquishment and grant by this act shall in no manner interfere with or prejudice any bona fide claims of others, whether asserted adversely under rights derived from Spain, Mexico, or the laws of the United States, nor preclude a judicial examination and adjustment thereof.]</p><P>SEC. 7.  <HI REND="italics">And be it further enacted</HI>
114.sgm:, That it shall be the duty of the Surveyor-General of California, in making surveys of the private land claims finally confirmed, to follow the decree of confirmation as closely as practicable whenever such decree designates the specific boundaries of the claim.  But when such decree designates only the out-boundaries within which the quantity confirmed is to be taken, the location of such quantity shall be made, as near as practicable, in one tract and in a compact form.  And if the character of the land, or intervening grants, be such as to render the location impracticable in one tract, then each separate location shall be made, as near as practicable, in a compact form.  And it shall be the duty of the Commissioner of the General Land-Office to require a substantial compliance with the directions of this section before approving any survey and plat forwarded to him.--[13 Stats. at Large, pp. 333-4.]</p><P>That part of the fifth section, which is included within brackets, was inserted at the suggestion of the Commissioner of the General Land-Office.</p><P><HI REND="italics">The act entitled "An act to quiet the title to certain lands within the corporate limits of the city of San Francisco," approved March</HI>
114.sgm: 8 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
114.sgm:, 1866.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled</HI>
114.sgm:, That all the right and title of the United States to the land situated within the corporate limits of the city of San Francisco, in the State of California, confirmed to the city of San Francisco by the decree of the Circuit Court of the United States for the Northern District of California, entered on the eighteenth day of May, one thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, be, and the same are hereby, relinquished and granted to the said city of San Francisco and its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:successors, and the claim of the said city to said land is hereby confirmed, subject, however, to the reservations and exceptions designated in said decree, and upon the following trusts, namely, that all the said land, not heretofore granted to said city, shall be disposed of and conveyed by said city to parties in the bona fide actual possession thereof, by themselves or tenants, on the passage of this act, in such quantities and upon such terms and conditions as the legislature of the State of California may prescribe, except such parcels thereof as may be reserved and set apart by ordinance of said city for public uses:  <HI REND="italics">Provided, however</HI>
114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT K.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Letter of Judge Lake giving an account of the Torpedo</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">April</HI>
114.sgm: 29, '80.</p><P>Honorable STEPHEN J. FIELD.</p><P>MY DEAR SIR: In the winter of 1866 I was in Washington attending the United States Supreme Court, and was frequently a visitor at your room.</p><P>One morning in January of that year I accompanied you to your room, expecting to find letters from San Francisco, as I had directed that my letters should be forwarded to your care.  I found your mail lying on the table.  Among other matter addressed to you was a small package, about four inches square, wrapped in white paper, and bearing the stamp of the Pioneer Photographic Gallery of San Francisco.  Two printed slips were pasted upon the face of the package and formed the address: your name, evidently cut from the title-page of the "California Law Reports;" and "Washington, D.C.," taken from a newspaper.  You supposed it to be a photograph, and said as much to me, though from the first you professed surprise at the receipt of it.</p><P>You were standing at the window, when you began to open it, and had some difficulty in making the cover yield.  When you had removed the cover you raised the lid slightly, but in a moment said to me, "What is this, Lake?  It can hardly be a photograph."  A sudden suspicion flashed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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114.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
114.sgm:<P>General Dyer added, among other analytical details, that the ball weighed 52 grains.</p><P>All the circumstances connected with the reception of the infernal machine were too singular and, at that time, ominous, not to remain vividly impressed upon my memory.</p><P>Very truly, your friend,</p><P>DELOS LAKE.</p></DIV>
114.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXHIBIT L.</HEAD>
114.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The following is an extract from the Report to the Commissioner of the General Land-Office by the Register and Receiver of the Land-Office in California, to whom the matter of the contests for lands on the Soscol Ranch was submitted for investigation, showing the condition and occupation of the lands previous to the rejection of the grant by the Supreme Court of the United States, and the character of the alleged pre-emption settlements which Julian undertook to defend</HI>
114.sgm:.</p><P>A general report of the facts established by said evidence is briefly as follows:<ANCHOR ID="na-5">*</ANCHOR>
114.sgm: When the United States government took possession of California, Don Mariana Guadaloupe Vallejo was in the occupancy of the rancho of Soscol, claiming to own it by virtue of the grant from the Mexican nation, which has recently (December term, 1861) been declared invalid by the Supreme Court of the United States.  His occupancy was the usual one of the country and in accordance with the primitive habits of the people.  He possessed the land by herding stock upon it.  General Vallejo, as military commandante of his district, consisting of all Alta California lying north of the bay of San Francisco, was necessarily the leading personage of the country.  His influence among the rude inhabitants of the Territory was almost monarchical, and his establishment was in accordance with his influence.  His residence at Sonoma was the capital of his commandancy, and the people of the country for hundreds of miles around looked to General Vallejo for advice and assistance in business and for protection and defence in time of trouble.  These things are part of the history of California.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-5">The evidence taken before those officers.</NOTE>
114.sgm:<P>He had other ranchos besides that of Soscol, as that at Sonoma, which was devoted to agriculture and residences.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-115</TITLE>
115.sgm:<TITLE>California:  a pleasure trip from Gotham to the Golden Gate, April, May, June, 1877. By Mrs. Frank Leslie. Facsimile with an introduction by Madeleine B. Stern: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
115.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
115.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
115.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
115.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
115.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
115.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
115.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>72-86546 //r935</LCCN>
115.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
115.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
115.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>WOMEN ON THE MOVE</P>
115.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A series of Books on the American West and Midwest</HI>
115.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">by Women who Traveled and Settled there</HI>
115.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">between 1835 and 1877</HI>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>MRS. FRANK LESLIE</P>
115.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA</P>
115.sgm:<P>A PLEASURE TRIP FROM<LB>GOTHAM TO THE GOLDEN GATE<LB>APRIL, MAY, JUNE, 1877</P>
115.sgm:<P>(1877)</P>
115.sgm:<P>FACSIMILE</P>
115.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">With an Introduction by</HI>
115.sgm:<P>MADELEINE B. STERN</P>
115.sgm:<P>NIEUWKOOP * B. DE GRAAF</P>
115.sgm:<P>1972</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Facsimile of the edition New York, 1877.</P>
115.sgm:<P>ISBN 90 6004 304 9</P>
115.sgm:<P>LC 72-86546</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>VII</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>Mrs. Frank Leslie took her <HI REND="italics">Pleasure Trip from Gotham to the Golden Gate</HI>
115.sgm: in 1877--a crucial period in the history of westward expansion in the United States.  The journey fell almost midway between 1860, when the trans-Missouri West was wilderness and much of the land belonged to Indian tribes roaming the plains and subsisting on buffalo, and 1890, when the earth had been tunneled by miners, the Indians were under-going the process of "civilization," the buffalo were all but extinct, and the frontier no longer existed.<ANCHOR ID="ni-1">*</ANCHOR>
115.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-1">Allan Nevins and Henry Steele Commager, <HI REND="italics">The Pocket History of the United States</HI>
115.sgm:<P>A prime factor in this dramatic metamorphosis was the railroad which linked the Atlantic and Pacific coasts.<ANCHOR ID="ni-2">*</ANCHOR>
115.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-2">Louis B. Wright, <HI REND="italics">Life on the American Frontier</HI>
115.sgm:<P>At this significant moment, the Leslie journey was undertaken and its events recorded by a woman who produced in her graphic vignettes of western life--its Indians, scouts and miners--a colorful source for Western Americana.  But Mrs. Leslie's <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
115.sgm: is distinguished from most travel books of the American West because the journey she describes was neither rugged nor austere but lavish and luxurious.  She viewed the West from the vantage point not of a pioneer woman but of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>VIII</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:flamboyant <HI REND="italics">grande dame</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Her own background motivated her point of view and many of the events in her remarkable career culminated in the journey she narrated.  Her book is in a sense a mirror of herself.  To appreciate it to the full, the reader must therefore acquaint himself with the extraordinary life and dazzling personality of its author.<ANCHOR ID="ni-3">*</ANCHOR>
115.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-3">Madeleine B. Stern, <HI REND="italics">Purple Passage: The Life of Mrs. Frank Leslie</HI>
115.sgm: (Norman, Okla., [1953], reprinted Norman, Okla., [1971]), <HI REND="italics">passim</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Between 1836, when she was born in New Orleans, and 1914, when she died in New York, Mrs. Frank Leslie, under a variety of names, lived many lives.  As Miriam Florence Follin, illegitimate daughter of Charles Follin (a descendant of French Huguenots) and of Susan Danforth (daughter of a Revolutionary soldier) she spent her early years in the colorful Vieux Carre&acute; of New Orleans, Queen City of the Mississippi.  There she was educated by her father to develop into a <HI REND="italics">grande dame</HI>
115.sgm:<P>At the age of eighteen, after the family had removed to New York, she experienced a short, forced and unsavory union with a jeweler's clerk who for a brief period gave her the name of Mrs. David Charles Peacock.  This marriage, which ended in separation, was to play an extremely important part in the history of <HI REND="italics">California: A Pleasure Trip from Gotham to the Golden Gate</HI>
115.sgm:.  Its sensational details were placed on record in a Judgment Roll in New York's Supreme Court--a Judgment <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>IX</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Long before that time the charming and beautiful Miriam played other roles under other intriguing names.  She took to the road as "Minnie Montez," stage sister of the legendary adventuress, Lola Montez.  That association also had connections with Mrs. Leslie's interest in the West for it had been in the mining settlement of Grass Valley, California, that the actress Lola Montez had met Miriam Follin's half-brother Noel Follin.  Noel's letters from California undoubtedly aroused in his young half-sister an early interest in the background of the American West.  His own interest had been aroused in the spectacular Lola, whom he accompanied on a theatrical tour to Australia.  On board ship Noel Follin either fell or was thrown overboard.  In her remorse at this tragedy Lola Montez journeyed east, offered her services to the Follin family, and took young Miriam under her histrionic wing.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Such dramatic skills as she mastered sped her on the way to becoming the embodiment of grace.  By the time Miriam was twenty-one she conquered the impressive scholar and celebrated archeologist, Ephraim George Squier, to whom she was married in 1857.  She remained Mrs. E. G. Squier for fifteen tumultuous years in the course of which she translated Alexandre Dumas' <HI REND="italics">Demi-Monde</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Frank Leslie, with his lively eyes and ruddy, bearded face, was a man of energy, vigor and dynamic magnetism.  His <HI REND="italics">Illustrated Newspaper</HI>
115.sgm: had made him a power on Publishers' Row.  Into its folio pages he poured just enough text to float his pictures instead of just enough pictures to adorn his text.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>X</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, with a host of other weeklies and monthlies, almanacs and illustrated books appearing over his imprint, the name of Frank Leslie was becoming a household word.  The well-known archeologist, E. G. Squier, joined the editorial staff of what was swiftly developing into a publishing empire, and in 1863 his wife became editor of <HI REND="italics">Frank Leslie's Lady's Magazine</HI>
115.sgm:.  To her various skills Miriam now added the arts of flowery prose writing and editorial acumen.  From her editorial corner she watched the House of Leslie expand until it employed from three to four hundred assistants including seventy wood engravers and boasted an aggregate circulation of some half a million copies per week.<ANCHOR ID="ni-4">*</ANCHOR>
115.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-4">Madeleine B. Stern, <HI REND="italics">Imprints on History: Book Publishers and American Frontiers</HI>
115.sgm:<P>To her study of the arts of publishing Miriam joined an equally intense study of the arts of the publisher.  It was inevitable that, after a sensational divorce from the now unbalanced E. G. Squier, she should acquire yet another name--Mrs. Frank Leslie.  On July 13, 1874, the thirty-eight-year-old editor of a woman's magazine was married to the suave and elegant fifty-three-year-old magnate of Publishers' Row.  One month later, E. G. Squier was committed to an asylum for the insane, a circumstance that would also assume some part in the history of Mrs. Frank Leslie's <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Luxuriously, prodigally, against an ornate background in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XI</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>In 1869, after the completion of the transcontinental railroad, Frank Leslie had sent a staff artist to record the journey for his <HI REND="italics">Illustrated Newspaper</HI>
115.sgm:<P>On April 10, 1877, the party of twelve editors, journalists and artists assembled at New York's Grand Central Station.  Besides the Leslies (and Miriam's Skye terrier Follette) the travelers included their friends the Hackleys, the writers Edwin A. Curley and Bracebridge Hemyng, the artists Miss Georgiana A. Davis, Water R. Yeager and Harry Ogden, the photographer W. B. Austin, the business manager Hamilton S. Wicks, and W. K. Rice, son of the Governor of Massachusetts.  They watched while champagne baskets and hampers were loaded onto the sumptuous "Palace" car that had been renamed the "Frank Leslie."  Amid cheers and waving handkerchiefs, whistles and the exploding of signal torpedoes, the train pulled out of the station <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XII</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:and one of the most lavish nineteenth-century transcontinental journeys began.  The two-month Leslie excursion would cost $15,000 despite the fact that the railroad service was free.  Its details would be recorded in a lengthy succession of articles that would run in <HI REND="italics">Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper</HI>
115.sgm: between April 1877 and May 1878.<ANCHOR ID="ni-5">*</ANCHOR>
115.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-5">The start of the journey was described in <HI REND="italics">Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper</HI>
115.sgm: (April 28, 1877), pp. 140-141.  The series "Across the Continent" ran in <HI REND="italics">Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper</HI>
115.sgm: between July 7, 1877 and May 25, 1878, with some western features running later.  Some of those articles were reprinted in Richard Reinhardt, <HI REND="italics">Out West on the Overland Train</HI>
115.sgm: (Palo Alto, Calif., [1967]).  See also Robert Taft, "The Pictorial Record of the Old West, XI.  The Leslie Excursions of 1869 and 1877," <HI REND="italics">The Kansas Historical Quarterly</HI>
115.sgm: (May 1950), reprinted in Robert Taft, <HI REND="italics">Artists and Illustrators of the Old West: 1850-1900</HI>
115.sgm: (New York, 1953).  Quotations are from Mrs. Leslie's <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
115.sgm:<P>In her own special way Miriam Leslie would capture the highlights of the spectacular extravaganza known as the Leslie Transcontinental Excursion.  Her perceptive observations would be filtered through the crucible of her own personality.  She would produce no dry-as-dust run-of-the-mill baedeker, but a book filled with personalized comments on miners and Indians, tycoons and magnates, on the moral climate of San Francisco and the "Prunes, Prisms, and Propriety" to which she was exposed.  Despite her often flowery style, despite an occasional looking down the nose at western crudities, she would reflect the social consciousness of a responsible woman in a position of some power as she aired a genuine indignation at social injustices toward the Orientals of California.  "Let the nineteenth century answer," she would write, taking notes from the vantage point of a hotel on wheels, watching the kaleidoscopic parade of America flash by.  Her book would be the product not of the hardworking pioneer woman settler but of the exalted woman visitor from the East.  As such it would present a study in sharp contrast to the earlier record of such a traveler as Eliza <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XIII</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:Farnham<ANCHOR ID="ni-6">*</ANCHOR>
115.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-6">Eliza Farnham, <HI REND="italics">California, In-Doors and Out</HI>
115.sgm:<P>"The nineteenth century," Mrs. Leslie wrote, "flies upon the coach-wheel."  To this now all but obsolete method of transportation she gave particular attention and her notes on railroad travel in 1877 have an extraordinary fascination.  In Chicago the Wagner Palace Car with its curtained couches and divans, its salon and ornamental panels, was exchanged for a Pullman Palace Car named the "President" which had cost $35,000 to build and had recently been exhibited at the Centennial Exposition.  Its kitchen boasted a mammoth roaster and a charcoal broiler; its refrigerator and larder were contained in boxes beneath the car.  Fish was caught en route, trout and antelope were foraged for by the conductor.  The Leslie party enjoyed Delmonican repasts as they sped by at twenty miles an hour while the coyote howled outside.  Subsequently other trains would be described by the author--the Pacific Railroad, "the road of the world," a private Palace car that was "a perfect little <HI REND="italics">bijou</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Long before her encounters with the Mormons, Mrs. Frank <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XIV</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Miriam drew her prose vignettes of frontier life as rolling prairie gave way to low bluffs, canyons and buttes to the grand sweep of mountains.  The backdrop shifted.  Herds of cattle and wild horses dotted the landscape, log houses and sagebrush, canvas-topped wagons and cinnamon bears, a stream of Mormons and Chinese laborers along the railroad.  While she held her aristocratic nose at repulsive-looking braves in striped blankets, she was enthralled by moonlight on the white alkali patches of the desert.  On the planked sidewalks of Carson City, Indians lounged in their calico rags and red paint.  After the snows of the Sierras, the valley of the Sacramento lay before her.  The background and characters of a continent captured in her notebook, Miriam Leslie had arrived at the City of the Golden Gate.</P>
115.sgm:<P>San Francisco unfolded its colors and contrasts to the perceptive editorial eye of the <HI REND="italics">grande dame</HI>
115.sgm: from Gotham.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XV</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>To most of the city's bigwigs the Leslies did have introductions.  Mayor Bryant drove them about behind his elegant four-in-hand.  The Nevada Senator William Sharon, now a California Croesus, invited them to his country estate at Belmont--a palace filled with all the luxuries known to man save one: "We did not, in all that mansion, see a book, or a bookcase, or any spot where one might fitly have been placed, or expected to be placed!"  Coleman, owner of the whole of the San Rafael valley, invited them for the day and Ex-Governor Stanford was their host at dinner in "the most magnificent house on this Continent."</P>
115.sgm:<P>From the Barbary Coast to the county jail, from Woodward's Gardens to the Mission Dolores, the visitors wandered.  Chinatown, seen under the guidance of a detective, was especially interesting to Mrs. Leslie, who attended Scene 102 of Act 53 at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XVI</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>At the suggestion of "Lucky" Baldwin, another California tycoon, the Leslies visited his ranch at Santa Anita, near Los Angeles.  The "semi-tropical air" of Los Angeles impressed Miriam immediately.  Its shops, "most of them open to the street," its abundance of fruits and flowers that made one feel as if "promenading the hall of an Agricultural Fair," its Mexican women in mantillas, its Spanish and Chinese were all grist for the mill of the note-taking woman editor from Publishers' Row, who commented: "Los Angeles has, within ten years, become a `live' American city, and might in one sense date its existence from about that time, although in another claiming a century's growth.  At any rate, like some other creatures of an uncertain age, Los Angeles is more charming on acquaintance than at first sight."  Of apparently certain age was the so-called oldest woman in the world, Eulalia Pe&acute;rez, whom Mrs. Leslie interviewed in Spanish.  Claiming to be one hundred forty, with grandchildren of eighty, Eulalia made the astute and flattering comment that her interviewer need not have "married a man with white hair."</P>
115.sgm:<P>A tour of the Yosemite completed the California extravaganza.  On the way, Miriam enlarged her studies in contrasts with a night at Cold Spring Station, a settlement consisting of two houses and a watering trough.  In a three-room cabin--half posting house and half grocery shop--the party passed a memorable night in the course of which Mrs. Leslie concocted a meal and slept on the supper table, pillowing her coiffured head on a bag of salt.  She had brought not only her fashion but her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XVII</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Having observed much of the high life and some of the low life of California, Miriam was prepared to return home with her husband, her friends and her notes.  The journey back was marked by sojourns at two unusual cities which called into play all of her descriptive powers.  Indeed, her delineations proved so graphic that their documentary value is matched only by their biographical interest.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Virginia City, Nevada, was a mining town that had sprung up in the wake of the Comstock Lode.  Although its C Street presented to the passer-by a succession of saloons, opium dens and brothels, the town was proud of its history and its mines, its International Hotel and its newspaper, the <HI REND="italics">Territorial Enterprise</HI>
115.sgm:<P>To call a place dreary, desolate, homeless, uncomfortable, and wicked is a good deal, but to call it God-forsaken is a good deal more, and in a tolerably large experience of this world's wonders, we never found a place better deserving the title than Virginia City.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The remainder of Chapter XXXII would substantiate her generalizations.  Virginia's architectural style, she observed, might perhaps be inferred "from the fact that about two years ago the whole town burned down one night, and was rebuilt as good as ever in six days."  "Every other house," she continued, "was a drinking or gambling saloon, and we passed a great many brilliantly lighted windows, where sat audacious looking women who freely chatted with passers-by or entertained guests within."  An evening stroll was possible only with a police escort.  In sum: "Virginia City boasts of forty-nine gambling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XVIII</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:saloons and one church, open the day we were there for a funeral, an event of frequent occurrence in the lawless little city.  The population is largely masculine, very few women, except of the worst class, and as few children."  Mrs. Leslie was apparently unaware that one member of Virginia City's masculine population was Rollin M. Daggett, the fighting editor of the town's <HI REND="italics">Territorial Enterprise</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Eager to forget Virginia's assay office and wooden shacks, its prostitutes and gamblers, the erstwhile Mrs. Squier turned her attention to another city whose laws interested her more closely than the lawlessness of the Bonanza town.  Although the Leslie party had visited Salt Lake City, Utah, on the westward trip, they were sufficiently curious about Mormonism to make a repeat stop on the homeward journey.  The Mormon doctrine and practice of polygamy especially interested the oft-wed Mrs. Leslie.  Indeed its beneficent economic effects were borne out as the party approached the "verdant fields" and neat cottages, the schoolhouses and co--operative store of a Mormon settlement.  As Mrs. Leslie succinctly phrased it, "Certainly, polygamy is very wrong, but roses are better than sage-brush, and potatoes and peas preferable as diet to buffalo grass."  Whenever opportunity offered she seized the occasion to interview Mormons on the intriguing and debatable subject.  From Salt Lake's photographer and editor, banker, merchant and Elders she elicited opinions.  Miss Snow, widow of the Mormon leader Joseph Smith and at present temporarily "sealed" to Brigham Young, announced, "We consider ourselves among the finest women in the world, and aim to compete with our sisters elsewhere in every pursuit and every branch of education."  When the persistent interviewer inquired "if the various wives of one husband got along amicably among themselves,...she decisively replied: `Perfectly so, their religion inculcates it; and besides, their work is so large, and their aims so high, that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XIX</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Having observed President Brigham Young's background--his residence the Lion House, the Beehive House that housed a dozen of his wives, the schoolhouse for his seventy children, the Mormon Tabernacle, Mrs. Leslie approached with alacrity the Mormon leader himself, for none was better equipped to discuss the "peculiar institution of Utah."  Under her skillful questioning, the interview which began perfunctorily gathered momentum.  "Do you suppose, Mr. President, that I came all the way to Salt Lake City to hear that it was a fine day?"  "`I am sure you need not, my dear,' was the ready response of this cavalier of seventy-six years, `for it must be fine weather wherever you are!'  The conversation established after this method went upon velvet."</P>
115.sgm:<P>Seated on the sacred sofa, Mrs. Frank Leslie quickly captivated the Mormon President who, looking like a well-fed Senator, allowed himself to be drawn out on Mormon history and Mormon doctrine, Mormon wives and Mormon husbands, domestic relations and the eugenics of Mormonism.  The children, he informed her, were trained from infancy to respect the concepts of polygamy.  But who, she demanded, trained the mothers?  "What religion can make a woman happy in seeing the husband whom she loves devoted to another wife, and one with equal claims with herself.  Any woman, I should think, would spend all her strength, use every effort of mind, body and soul, to attract and retain his love, admiration and attention.  Isn't it so, Mr. President?"  With an "inquisitorial glance" at his astute and seductive interviewer, Mr. President replied: "You look like just the woman to do that sort of thing, but fortunately, perhaps, there are not many of that mind among us."  "Do Mormon husbands feel no preferences?" she persisted.  "Well, perhaps," Brigham Young replied, "human nature is frail, but our religion teaches us to control and conceal those preferences as much as possible, and we do--we do."</P>
115.sgm:<P>With so quotable an interview trapped in her notebook, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XX</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, the series of illustrated articles headed "Across the Continent" continued to appear in <HI REND="italics">Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper</HI>
115.sgm: and Mrs. Frank Leslie polished up her own notes of the journey.  In December 1877, <HI REND="italics">California: A Pleasure Trip from Gotham to the Golden Gate</HI>
115.sgm: was issued by G.W. Carleton &amp; Co. of New York, publishers of the popular humor of "Josh Billings" and "Artemus Ward," as well as of numerous other best-sellers.  Carleton's device--the Arabic symbol for "books" which, upside down, seemed to spell his initials--was imprinted now on Mrs. Leslie's contribution to the literature of travel.<ANCHOR ID="ni-7">*</ANCHOR>
115.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-7">Stern, <HI REND="italics">Imprints on History, op. cit</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The reviews must have gratified her.  They were widely distributed, appearing in <HI REND="italics">The Evening Post</HI>
115.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
115.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Providence Journal</HI>
115.sgm: and, of course, <HI REND="italics">Frank Leslie's Lady's Journal</HI>
115.sgm:.  According to <HI REND="italics">The Sun</HI>
115.sgm:, "the author brought, to unusual opportunities of social study, the taste and insight of a cultivated woman, and a happy faculty of description," while another review went so far as to assert, "Had Madame de Se&acute;vigne&acute; been able to perform a journey from New York to San Francisco...she would have written some such a work as Mrs. Leslie's."  The consensus was that she had written "a charming account of a charming trip," a "pleasantly written" history.<ANCHOR ID="ni-8">*</ANCHOR>
115.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-8">For reviews, see <HI REND="italics">The Evening Post</HI>
115.sgm: (December 27, 1877), p. 1; <HI REND="italics">Frank Leslie's Lady's Journal</HI>
115.sgm: (January 5 and January 19, 1878), pp. 130 and 162; <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
115.sgm: (January 27, 1878), p. 6; <HI REND="italics">Providence Journal</HI>
115.sgm: (December 31, 1877), p. 1; <HI REND="italics">The Sun</HI>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXI</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>It was not until July 14, 1878 that the charm and pleasantness of Mrs. Leslie's <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
115.sgm: were ruthlessly challenged.  Virginia City's <HI REND="italics">Territorial Enterprise</HI>
115.sgm: of that date devoted its entire mammoth-sized front page to an article entitled: OUR FEMALE SLANDERER.  MRS. FRANK LESLIE'S BOOK SCANDALIZING THE FAMILIES OF VIRGINIA CITY--THE HISTORY OF THE AUTHORESS--A LIFE DRAMA OF CRIME AND LICENTIOUSNESS--STARTLING DEVELOPMENTS.  A twenty-four-page pamphlet of the same date entitled TERRITORIAL ENTERPRISE EXTRA. CONTAINING A FULL ACCOUNT OF "FRANK LESLIE" AND WIFE reprinted the vicious expose&acute; in handy format.<ANCHOR ID="ni-9">*</ANCHOR>
115.sgm: Miriam Leslie's derogatory remarks about Virginia City, which would shortly be substantiated by Mrs. M.M. Mathews in her <HI REND="italics">Ten Years in Nevada</HI>
115.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="ni-10">*</ANCHOR>
115.sgm: had instigated a detailed and baneful series of revelations.  From Miriam's illegitimate birth to the episodes with David Peacock and Lola Montez, from her extra-marital activities to her divorce from E.G. Squier, the sordid details of her "strange, eventful history" were maliciously aired.  Based largely upon the Peacock Judgment Roll which had been supplied by E.G. Squier, the <HI REND="italics">Territorial Enterprise Extra</HI>
115.sgm: formed a defamatory indictment far more damaging than the remarks that had provoked it.  Leslie's efforts to buy up every copy were not entirely successful, and the violent excoriation with its Virginia City imprint provides today not only a sought-for piece of Western Americana but a fascinating insight into Mrs. Frank <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXII</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:Leslie's early life and her <HI REND="italics">Pleasure Trip from Gotham to the Golden Gate</HI>
115.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-9"><HI REND="italics">Daily Territorial Enterprise</HI>
115.sgm: (Virginia, Nevada, July 14, 1878), p. 1; reprinted as <HI REND="italics">Territorial Enterprise Extra.  Containing A Full Account of "Frank Leslie" and Wife</HI>
115.sgm: (Virginia City, Nevada, 1878).  See also Madeleine B. Stern, "Mrs. Leslie Goes West," <HI REND="italics">The Book Club of California Quarterly News Letter</HI>
115.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-10">Mrs. M.M. Mathews, <HI REND="italics">Ten Years in Nevada</HI>
115.sgm:<P>She would survive both the fulminating indictment and other disasters that followed it.  Indeed the events of her later life were as dramatic as those of her salad days.  After Frank Leslie's death in 1880, Miriam inherited not only the Publishing House but its debts and opportunities.  She paid the former and developed the latter by capitalizing upon an event of national importance.  President Garfield's assassination in 1881, his lingering illness and death provided material for a journalistic coup that re-established the bankrupt publishing empire.  By issuing three illustrated papers in a single week to fill the public demand for graphic reports of the brutal tragedy, Miriam Leslie--who changed her name legally to "Frank Leslie"--made money and history.  Her tour de force was an achievement unparalleled in the newspaper world.  As head of the House which phoenix-like had risen from the ashes, she herself became an almost legendary figure on Publishers' Row.  Reorganizing every department of her business, she was acclaimed an "Empress of Journalism," a "commercial Joan of Arc."</P>
115.sgm:<P>Meanwhile her private life kept pace with her public career, as the "Empress of Journalism" enacted the role of <HI REND="italics">femme fatale</HI>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXIII</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Before her dramatic departure from the earthly scene, Miriam made two return trips to the California she had described in 1877.  In 1892 the first annual convention of the International League of Press Clubs was held in the City of the Golden Gate.  Willie Wilde and his wife, "Frank Leslie," were members of the party that left Grand Central and journeyed by rail to the West.  In the course of her speech on "Reminiscences of a Woman's Work in Journalism," delivered at the League's Open Session, Miriam spoke of her deep desire to revisit San Francisco since it had been after her return from that city fifteen years before that she had met "the great crisis of her life."  Once again, in 1910, after she had adopted yet another name--that of Baroness de Bazus, which she claimed as a family title--the <HI REND="italics">grande dame</HI>
115.sgm: returned to San Francisco.  The city had weathered fire and earthquake and had changed as markedly as the author of <HI REND="italics">California: A Pleasure Trip from Gotham to the Golden Gate</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Both the excursion and the book that recorded it deserve a niche in American travel literature.  Mrs. Frank Leslie was the author of several other books--largely inconsequential commentaries on social life that bear no comparison with her major work on California.  As the account of a high-style journey to the West at a significant moment in American history, the record is a valuable one.  Its vivid and graphic sketches of railroad travel and western settlements enrich our knowledge of the American background during the 1870's.  The viewpoint of the sophisticated woman from the East heightens the interest of her observations.  The work adds to our knowledge both of the West and of Mrs. Frank Leslie, and so it is invested with documentary and biographical importance.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXIV</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The book which incited such a violent reaction after its publication has now become scarce and sought after.  Nearly one hundred years after its original appearance it is at last reprinted.  The twentieth century may thus be reminded of a nineteenth century that ran grandiosely on the coach-wheel to a California gaudy with contrasts, and of the fascinations of the woman who recorded the journey and painted a scene that she herself adorned.</P>
115.sgm:<DIV>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA.<LB>A<LB>PLEASURE TRIP<LB>FROM<LB>NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CROSSING DALE CREEK BRIDGE--130 FEET HIGH.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA</P>
115.sgm:<P>A</P>
115.sgm:<P>PLEASURE TRIP</P>
115.sgm:<P>FROM</P>
115.sgm:<P>GOTHAM TO THE GOLDEN GATE.</P>
115.sgm:<P>(APRIL, MAY, JUNE, 1877.)</P>
115.sgm:<P>BY</P>
115.sgm:<P>MRS. FRANK LESLIE.</P>
115.sgm:<P>PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED.</P>
115.sgm:<P>NEW YORK:</P>
115.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">G. W. Carleton &amp; Co., Publishers</HI>
115.sgm:<P>LONDON: S. LOW, SON &amp; CO.</P>
115.sgm:<P>MDCCCLXXVII.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1877,</P>
115.sgm:<P>BY</P>
115.sgm:<P>MRS. FRANK LESLIE.</P>
115.sgm:<P>TROW'S</P>
115.sgm:<P>PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY,</P>
115.sgm:<P>205-213 <HI REND="italics">East</HI>
115.sgm: 12 <HI REND="italics">th St</HI>
115.sgm:<P>NEW YORK.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFATORY, TO THE READER.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>DEAR five hundred friends already mine, and five hundred hundred more, who will, as I fondly dream, become mine through these pages, let me disarm criticism beforehand by assuring you that nobody could point out a fault or a shortcoming in this little book, which I do not know all about and deplore most modestly beforehand.  In fact I have my doubts as to calling it a book at all, that title implying a purpose, and deliberateness, and method, which are not of my circle, although regarded by me with respectful admiration.  No, let us rather say, that this work of mine is a vehicle, through which, with feminine longing for sympathy, I convey to you my pleasures, annoyances, and experiences in the journey it narrates; or, if you like better, it is a casket, enshrining the memory of many a plesant hour made bright and indelible by your companionship, your kindness, your attention and hospitality.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The world is so <HI REND="italics">exigeant</HI>
115.sgm:, and Time the Effacer is so ruthless, that one loves sometimes to "materalize" those pleasant, or more than plesant recollections, and so put them not only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Take then my embodied recollections, dear friends, and each of you find among them the one memory distinctively your own, and believe that round that central point all the rest are constellated; and for you, O critics! if you will indeed attempt to bind a butterfly upon the wheel, or anatomize the vapory visions of a woman's memory, remember that in all courtesy you should deal gently and generously with a work proclaiming itself from the outset not so much a book as a long gossipy letter to one's friends, and an amiable attempt to convey to the rest of the world some of the delight it commemorates, and if you do not find a great deal in it, dear critic, remember that to competently judge a woman's letter or a woman's book, one must have learned to read between the lines and find there the pith and meaning of the whole.</P>
115.sgm:<P>M. FLORENCE LESLIE.</P>
115.sgm:<P>NEW YORK, November, 1877.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>ON THE ICE UNDER NIAGARA FALLS<HSEP>23<LB>GRAND PACIFIC HOTEL, CHICAGO<HSEP>34<LB>CROSSING DALE CREEK BRIDGE--130 FEET HIGH<HSEP>38<LB>ON THE INCLINED RAILWAY TO THE FOOT OF NIAGARA FALLS<HSEP>41<LB>STARTING FOR THE BLACK HILLS FROM CHEYENNE<HSEP>48<LB>INTERIOR OF THE THEATRE AT CHEYENNE<HSEP>50<LB>GAMBLING BOOTHS IN THE EARLY YEARS OF THE RAILROADS<HSEP>52<LB>EVADING THE LIQUOR LAW AT COLORADO SPRINGS<HSEP>56<LB>MANITOU SPRINGS, COLORADO<HSEP>56<LB>PETRIFIED FORMS OF WONDER, COLORADO<HSEP>60<LB>CROSSING THE MISSISSIPPI<HSEP>63<LB>PRAIRIE DOG TOWN<HSEP>71<LB>CO-OPERATIVE UNION BUILDING, SALT LAKE CITY<HSEP>80<LB>THE "TWINS," MARIPOSA GROVE<HSEP>90<LB>SOME OF THE LATE BRIGHAM YOUNG'S RESIDENCES IN SALT LAKE CITY<HSEP>93<LB>TAKING LEAVE OF BRIGHAM YOUNG<HSEP>102<LB>NEW MORMON TEMPLE AS IT WILL APPEAR WHEN COMPLETED<HSEP>103<LB>HUMBOLDT RIVER AND CAN&tilde;ON<HSEP>104<LB>THE GOLDEN GATE--THE ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR OF SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>113<LB>THE "NOBLE SAVAGE"<HSEP>114 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:BELMONT, THE COUNTRY-SEAT OF THE LATE W. A. RALSTON<HSEP>125<LB>SALMON FISHING, SACRAMENTO RIVER<HSEP>128<LB>SWEETMEAT VENDER, CHINESE THEATRE, SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>136<LB>PROPITIATING FORTUNE BEFORE SPECULATING<HSEP>142<LB>STREET IN THE CHINESE QUARTER, SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>145<LB>A PERIPATETIC COBBLER<HSEP>145<LB>CHINESE JOSS HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>148<LB>CHINESE BARBER, SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>154<LB>OUR "HIGH CASTE" CHINESE ACCOUNTANT<HSEP>162<LB>POISON OAK, CAL<HSEP>167<LB>A CHINESE GOLDSMITH<HSEP>169<LB>CHINESE PASTRY COOK<HSEP>171<LB>THE INEVITABLE WINDMILL<HSEP>174<LB>THE CLIFF HOUSE<HSEP>178<LB>SEAL ROCKS, HARBOR OF SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>180<LB>SETTLERS IN ECHO CAN&tilde;ON<HSEP>193<LB>THE WITCHES' CAULDRON, CAL<HSEP>205<LB>A DRIVE WITH FOSSE OF FOSSEVILLE<HSEP>212<LB>ON THE ROAD TO THE "BIG TREES"<HSEP>217<LB>MAKING A NIGHT OF IT<HSEP>227<LB>EN ROUTE FOR THE YOSEMITE<HSEP>231<LB>ASCENDING THE "FALLEN MONARCH"<HSEP>244<LB>CUTTING DOWN ONE OF THE BIG TREES<HSEP>246<LB>THE OLDEST WOMAN IN THE WORLD<HSEP> 259<LB>CUTTING BARK AND CONES AS MEMENTOES OF THE MARIPOSA GROVE.<HSEP>276<LB>THE CALIFORNIA OR MOUNTAIN LIONS AT GREEN RIVER STATION<HSEP>284<LB>FAITHFUL FOLLETTE<HSEP>286</P>
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115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>THE BEGINNING.<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>Our temporary Home.--Sweet Sleep.--Niagara in View.--The inclined Railway.--An improvised Repast.--A word of Caution.<HSEP>17-23<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>THE TAGUS AND LAKE ERIE.<LB>The Office of the "Toledo Blade."--First impressions of Prairie.--Chicago Explored.--Mr. Pullman's palatial House.--The Stewarts of Chicago.--Academy of Fine Arts.--A twelve-year-old Artist.--Chicago's Water Works.--Chicago a thing of Promise.--The Grand Pacific Hotel.<HSEP>24-34<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>HOTEL CARS <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
115.sgm: EMIGRANT TRAINS.<LB>A Delmonican Repast.--Poetic Fancies.--The City of Omaha.--Motley groups of People.--A party of Emigrants.--A homely Dinner.<HSEP>35-41<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>THE UNMENTIONABLE PLACE.<LB>An early Awakening.--Delayed by an Accident.--The Magic City of the Plains.--Cheyenne a true Frontier Town.--Salubrity of Cheyenne.--Courtesy of Frontiersmen.--Conductor "Jim Cahoon."--Theatre and Gambling Saloon.--The Opera House.--Study for Arch&aelig;ologists.<HSEP>42-52 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:CHAPTER V.<LB>THE GARDEN OF THE GODS.<LB>An agreeable Entertainment.--Colorado Springs.--Residence of Helen Hunt, "H. H."--Grace Greenwood's Home.--"The Garden of the Gods."--A Scene for an Artist.--Petrified forms of Wonder.--A Treasure rarer than Gold.--Detained by a high Wind.--The best remains Behind.<HSEP>53-63<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>CATHEDRALS, CASTLES, CITIES NOT BUILT BY HANDS.<LB>The Playground of forgotten Titans.--A Miracle of Engineering.--Action of Weather and Time.--Slender and fantastic Rocks.--The 1,000 mile Tree.--Utah, the Land of Thrift.--Advanced Civilization.<HSEP>64-71<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>SALT LAKE CITY.  MRS. AMELIA'S PICTURES.  MISS SNOW.<LB>A Fragment of a Sermon.--The City of the Saints.--Cleanliness of Salt Lake City.--Sensitiveness of Mormon Ladies.--Brigham Young's favorite Wife.--Manufactures of Mormon Women.--Training the rising Generation.--Miss Snow and her chosen People.<HSEP>72-80<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>A FIRST-CLASS MORMON INTERIOR.<LB>Elevation of Mormon Women.--Are Mormon Women a jealous Race?--"Sealing," a mere Marriage of Time.--Mr. Young, a Patron of the Drama.--The true Woman view of Polygamy.--Polygamy discussed.--Utah Women on a par with the Men.--The Mormons' Religion their Stronghold.--The Tabernacle and the President.<HSEP>81-90<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>A LION THAT WE SAW AND A LION THAT WE HEARD.<LB>Description of the Tabernacle.--The President's House.--Mohammedanism and Mormonism.--Amelia's Palace.--Interview with Mr. Young.--His strength and earnestness.--Joseph Smith inspired.--Ann Eliza, the recreant Spouse.--Domestic Harmony.--Mormon impartiality.--Mormon Children a fine Race.--Death of Brigham Young.<HSEP>91-103 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>PHILOSOPHY, SHOSHONES, AND PIUTES.<LB>"Up boys, and at them."--Contemplating the noble Savage.--Habiliments of "the Braves."--The passage of the Sierras.--Impressive grandeur of the Scenery.--Invocation to Tourists.--The wonderful power of Water.--Man's greed of Gain.--Sacramento a gigantic Bouquet.--Rest and comfort.<HSEP>104-114<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>THE PALACE HOTEL, PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE STREETS.<LB>Magnificence of the Palace Hotel.--The Architecture of San Francisco.--High prices prevail.--An exhilarating Climate.--Cosmopolitanism of the Population.--Social Law in San Francisco.--Ascendancy of the Romish Faith.--The Sabbath in San Francisco.<HSEP>115-123<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>A PRINCE AND A PALACE.<LB>The princely W. A. Ralston.--The days of Belmont's glory.--Death of Mr. Ralston.--Sorrow for Mr. Ralston.<HSEP>124-128<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>A MEMORABLE VISIT.<LB>The Scenery around Belmont.--Belmont an Architect's Vision.--Interior elegance of Belmont.--A Sketch of Mr. Sharon.--An Evening's Entertainment.--The chill and damp Sea Wind.--Our leave-taking.<HSEP>129-136<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>THE BROKER'S BOARD AND THE CITY PRISON.<LB>The San Francisco Board of Brokers.--The Barbary Coast explored.--The County Jail in San Francisco.--Characteristics of the Prisoners.--Need for another Elizabeth Fry.<HSEP>137-142<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>THE WAYS THAT ARE DARK.<LB>The Mongolian Merchants.--The Shopkeepers in China town.--China town in the Evening.--Expressionless Features of the Chinese.--Joss-houses and Joss-sticks.--The Shrines of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:Devotees.--Ceremony of Chinchinning Joss.--Divinities of the Chinese.--Curiosity of the Street Crowd.--The Chinaman's Tonsorial Luxury.--Domestic Peculiarities of the Chinese.<HSEP>143-154<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>ACT LIII.--SCENE 102.--AN OPIUM DEN.<LB>Theatrical Performances.--Grotesqueness of the Actors.--Acrobatic Agility.--An Opium Den.--How Opium is smoked.--Effects of Opium Smoking.--Use of Opium by White People.<HSEP>155-162<LB>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>WORSE THAN DEATH.<LB>"No, No, Me no Mally, no Wife!"--Women Sacrificed to Lives of Infamy.--Revolting Feminine Traffic.--A Humiliating Confession.<HSEP>163-167<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>SUPPER AT A CELESTIAL RESTAURANT.<LB>Midnight Wanderings.--The Genuine National Cuisine.--The Banquet and the Viands.--Chinese Servants.--Chinese Labor Excellent and Reliable.--John is a fixed Fact in California.<HSEP>168-174<LB>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>WOODWARD'S GARDEN AND SEAL ROCKS.<LB>A Fine Zoological Collection.--Social Courtesies.--The Cliff House a Popular Resort.--Golden Gate Park.--The Discordant Sea-lions.--The Cemeteries at Lone Mountain.<HSEP>175-181<LB>CHAPTER XX.<LB>THE TIES OF CALIFORNIA BUSINESS PARTNERSHIPS.<LB>Architecture of San Francisco.--Ornate Residences on the Cliffs.--The Mission Dolores.--Clay Hill Elevated Railway.<HSEP>182-186<LB>CHAPTER XXI.<LB>SAN RAFAEL AND MR. COLEMAN'S GROUNDS.<LB>San Rafael and its Environs.--Floricultural Gems.--Chinese Shrimp Fishermen.--Ex-Governor Stanford's Palatial Home.--Mr. Baldwin's Model Hotel.--Its Interior Appointments.<HSEP>187-193 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER XXII.<LB>THE ROSES OF SANTA ROSA.<LB>An American Saint.--A Modern Eden.--The Great Red-wood Trees.--The Country Inns of California.--A Terrific Drive.--Our Driver.--A Bridal Party.--Acoustic Properties of the Hotel.<HSEP>194-202<LB>CHAPTER XXIII.<LB>THE GEYSERS AND FOSSE OF FOSSEVILLE.<LB>A Scene of Desolation.--The Witches' Cauldron.--Over a Volcano.--The Indian Vapor Baths.--A Sublime View.--Poetic Pine Flat.--An Aggressive Autocrat.--Behind a "Six in Hand."--The Napa Valley.<HSEP>203-212<LB>CHAPTER XXIV.<LB>LAST DAYS IN SAN FRANCISCO.<LB>A Chinese Beauty.--The French Quarter.--A Lunch with the Mayor.--Peripatetic Flower Stands.<HSEP>213-217<LB>CHAPTER XXV.<LB>A LODGE IN A VAST WILDERNESS.<LB>In the Wake of Locusts.--Too Little Rain and too Much.--Boot-Jack Hollow.--A Settlement of Two Houses and a Watering Trough.--A Novel Experience.--One Bed for Sixteen.--An Impromptu Supper.--A Treasure Trove.--Sleep under Difficulties.--A Widower and a Waist.--To the Manner Born.--A Murder and Arrest.--The Merced River.<HSEP>218-231<LB>CHAPTER XXVI.<LB>THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.<LB>El Capitan, King of the Valley.--Inspiration Point.--The South Dome.--The Yosemite Falls.--Glacier Point.--The Mecca of the Morning's Pilgrimage.--A Cleft in the Plateau of the Sierras.--Avalanches and Slides of Rock.--A Life-long Delight.<HSEP>232-241<LB>CHAPTER XXVII.<LB>THE MARIPOSA BIG TREES.<LB>Big Tree Station.--The Fallen Monarch.--A Modern Blind Samson.--Ravages of Fire.<HSEP>242-246 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<LB>CHAPTER XXVIII.<LB>THE QUEEN OF THE ANGELS.<LB>The Robbers' Roost.--A Spanish-looking Town.--The Fountain of Perpetual Youth.--Founding of the Town.--A "Live" American City.--When to "Sit" for a Photograph.<HSEP>247-253<LB>CHAPTER XXIX.<LB>BALDWIN'S RANCHE OF SANTA ANITA.<LB>The Wine Houses.--California Racers.--Orange Groves.--A Haunted House.<HSEP>254-258<LB>CHAPTER XXX.<LB>A VERY OLD WOMAN AND A VERY OLD CHURCH.<LB>The Oldest Woman in the World.--Her Proposed Visit to the Centennial.--The Spanish Mission.--Curious Bells and Doors.--The Mission Orchards.--A Spanish Padre.--Tasteful Baldwin.--Inside a Spanish Hut.--A Fiery Mustang.--Peculiar Pets.<HSEP>259-269<LB>CHAPTER XXXI.<LB>SANTA MONACA.<LB>An Audacious Seal.--Visit to a Bee Ranch.--A Drive around Stockton.--Sacramento and the Shakes.--The "Tailing" Process.--From Carson to Virginia City.<HSEP>270-276<LB>CHAPTER XXXII.<LB>VIRGINIA CITY AND THE BIG BONANZA.<LB>One Church <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
115.sgm: Forty-nine Gambling Saloons.--The California or Bonanza Mine.--Extracting the Ore.--A Happy Hit.--Down the Shaft.--A Dark Mysterious Pit.<HSEP>277-283<LB>CHAPTER XXXIII.<LB>HOMEWARD BOUND.<LB>Sydney and Detroit.--Go West.<HSEP>284-286</P>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>STREET IN THE CHINESE QUARTER, SAN FRANCISCO.  Page 144.</P>
115.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>.</P>
115.sgm:<P>THE BEGINNING.</P>
115.sgm:<P>DOES anybody like the beginning of anything?  To our mind the well-known French proverb about the first step bears a deeper meaning than is usually attributed to it, and is intended not so much as an encouragement to doubters as for a Hafiz-like warning against the folly of ever beginning anything after the inevitable annoyance of beginning one's life.  The beginning of a dinner, of a ball, of a play, of a day, of an acquaintance, of a book, of a pair of boots, does anybody like any of these?  Even the beginning of a love, can it compare with its earliest noontide?  And as for the beginning of an end, whether of lives or empires, who can doubt that Ariadne's death-blow fell when Perseus cast his first wistful glance toward the open sea, and that Moscow was a feller stroke to the great Emperor than St. Helena.</P>
115.sgm:<P>So let us hasten over the beginning of our journey toward the Golden Gate, artfully promising for those who shall patiently begin and continue as we began and continued, richer and fairer things are reserved in the end.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Briefly, then, we state that, passing from the chilly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>A few tears quietly brushed away, some clearing of suddenly husky throats, and the travelers begin to look about them at the quarters already representing home and home comforts to wearied minds and bodies.  And here let us suggest, that added inducements to timid and conservative tourists could be held forth by changing the name of such a cosmos as this car of ours from "palace" or "drawing-room" to "home" cars, or some equivalent titls, for who that has wintered in Italy would be tempted to accept a palace as his perpetual residence, and who would desire to sit for a week in a drawing-room, clad in body and mind as be-fits the ceremonious reception of the world, with one's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>So the charming little residence in which we found ourselves shall be called a home, and very soon assumed the pleasant aspect suggested by the word, as the bouquets, shawls, rugs, sofa-cushions, and various personalities of the three ladies of the party were developed and arranged upon or around a table in the central division of the car, which was to represent the general <HI REND="italics">salon</HI>
115.sgm:, our end being partitioned off by curtains to serve as bowers for such of the party as had given hostages to society in the shape of husband or wife; while the other end, also screened by curtains, became a pleasant Bohemia where the artists, <HI REND="italics">litte&acute;rateurs</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Bed seems a good place to everybody at an early hour in this beginning evening, for bed is one of the few exceptions to the great rule laid down in our first sentences, and to a weary traveler it is pleasanter to lie down at night than to rise up in the morning; unless, indeed, at the Yosemite, and that is not yet.</P>
115.sgm:<P>So we watch with interest the lowering of the ornametal panels behind which are stowed capital mattresses, gay blankets, sufficient pillows and snowy linen, admire the deft dexterity of the pleasant official who, with these, converts our sofas into cozy, curtained couches, and presently retire to find within their shades the sweet sleep which never comes too soon or stays too late.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The conductor has warned us we shall find our breakfast at Rochester about half-past ten in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>At Rochester our car is switched off and connected with a train bound for Niagara, and presently the Suspension Bridge and mighty Cataract are in view.  Of course we pause to visit the Falls, for some of our party have never seen them, and the rest are but too happy to see them as often as possible.  Passing quickly through the poor little town, whose closed hotels and desolate shops look forlorn and hopeless in this dull season, we reach the Park, and presently stand beside the mighty mass of moving waters, whose slow, resistless sweep, "not hasting or resting," calm in the magnitude of their power, relentless as death to those who affront them, careless as Destiny of those who do not venture within their grasp, solemn as eternity, terrible and beautiful as life; so the vast waters pour their ceaseless flood century after century, while generations of mortals stand beside them, gaze, wonder, make their idle comments, and pass away to die and be forgotten, while still the mighty flood sweeps on and down changeless and immortal.</P>
115.sgm:<P>It is finally conceded that the best effects of color <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Just to the right of the Fall, at its foot, lay a great, rounded hill of ice, the accumulation of the Winter's frozen spray, and close beside this hill runs down, at an angle of thirty-three degrees, the steep plane of the inclined railway.  We took passage in its queer cars, arranged like a series of carpeted stairs, and were wheeled down at terrific speed to a point where an admirable upward view of the Cataract was to be obtained, but as the snow still lingering on the ground was of a melting and penetrating mood, we did not linger long, but, crossing over the Suspension Bridge to the Canada side, the familiar view of the Horseshoe Fall came in sight, and we looked down into the blue depths of the channel, two hundred and four feet at this point, according to our driver.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Upon the Canada side it is quite easy to distinguish the voices of the two Falls--the deep, thunderous roar of the Horseshoe Fall, and the more rippling and silvery voice of the American; and after one has passed the wonder and excitement of a first visit to this great marvel of Nature in listening silently and alone to this vast antiphony of the two wonderful voices, and in contemplating the mighty march of the unhastening, unresting flood, now sliding along a solid mass of sapphire waters, just flecked here and there with foam, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>No wonder that Niagara is, or should be, the despair of painters: they may give its height and width and form, even its coloring, but they cannot even suggest that slow majesty of motion, that wonderful harmony of sound.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Returning to our Wagner home we cast fond and searching looks toward the hampers provided for our refreshment by attentive friends, and from them are presently produced a chicken, some ham, beef, and various accessories; the table is spread and our artist dispatched in search of bread.  I say <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
115.sgm: artist, for, although several are with us, H-- is ours, <HI REND="italics">parexcellence</HI>
115.sgm:, not only because he has grown up beneath the eye of our Chief, but from his thoroughly sympathetic nature, combining the ability of a man with the winning qualities of a boy; the <HI REND="italics">enfant ga&circ;te&circ;</HI>
115.sgm: of our office--the <HI REND="italics">enfant terrible</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The bread is produced, but where are the plates?  Echo answers, where! but paper is voted an excellent substitute, and, at least, we are rich in knives and forks, for did not our Chief himself visit the Meriden Britannia Co., on the day of our departure, and, with his own hands bear home the shining parcel, now hopefully, and now despairingly, sought for in bags, valises, baskets, even in shawl-straps and pockets, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>And here let me pause to say a word to my long-suffering sex bound upon voyaging, near or far: do not consent to share bag or valise with any man unless you wish to find collars, cuffs, and ruffles crushed into a corner beneath a pair of boots, your tooth-brush saturated with liquid blacking, and the contents of your powder-box distributed throughout the whole, ready to fly out at any moment, proving that even your complexion is not a right that anybody is bound to respect!</P>
115.sgm:<P>The merry pic-nic was just concluded when the conductor appeared, loaded with plates, knives, forks, etc., and it was speedily voted that the repast already taken was but a lunch, and all found appetite, after an amazingly short interval, for a dinner fit, as some enthusiastically declared, for the Gods on Mount Olympus.</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE ICE UNDER NIAGARA FALLS.  Page 21.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>.</P>
115.sgm:<P>THE TAGUS AND LAKE ERIE.</P>
115.sgm:<P>ONE would not wish to be unpatriotic, but certainly the approach to the City of Toledo, Ohio, does not compare favorably with that of its namesake upon the golden-sanded Tagus.  Mile after mile of ragged woodland, mile after mile of roughly cleared fields dotted with charred stumps, mile after mile of sawmills and lumber-yards, brought us finally to the town, over which hung a cloud of dull brown smoke, with great buildings looming out of it, which we were informed were the largest grain elevators in the United States, built upon piles on the shores of the lake, or rather of the estuary leading to it.</P>
115.sgm:<P>This mode of building seems nearly as popular in Toledo as in Amsterdam, and so large a portion of the environs of the city seems wading out into the adjacent swamps and marshes that one looks for malaria and similar evils, as a matter of course, but is informed by the inhabitants that their excellent system of drainage obviates the trouble entirely.  As we walked through the town, which, although only about twenty years old, boasts 55,000 inhabitants, we were struck by the air of alertness and busy prosperity everywhere visible, even at the uncomfortably early hour of our promenade, and while our companions noted with approval the blocks of handsome warehouses and shops in the main street <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:we pondered pensively on the apothegm: "It is the early bird that gets the worm"; with its appropriate retort: "And serves the worm right for being out at such an hour!"  The morning wore on, however, and in due time we presented ourselves at the establishment of the <HI REND="italics">Toledo Blade</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The sword itself seems in size and weight better fitted for the hand of Orlando, or Charlemagne, or C&oelig;ur de Lion, than any less stalwart champion, but the hilt was magnificently incrusted with gold and silver, and the blade was proved to possess the marvelous suppleness and tenacity traditionally belongng to its family, and although we insisted that Dr. Miller should not run the remotest chance of accident by putting it to the test of bending the tip to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Leaving Toledo at one o'clock, we sped into Indiana and gained our first impression of prairie, or, as Westerners like to call it, per-air-ry, country, and, while here, record a conclusion arrived at after seeing whatever lies between the Atlantic and Pacific, that the prairie, like the Red man, requires to be seen in a state of savage nature to be at all interesting, and that neither is to be thus seen without considerable risk of life to the spectator.  Cultivated Indians are loathsome, cultivated prairies are stupid; and the scenery of northern Indiana is cultivated prairie.  We dined at Elkhart, and found a bit of an oasis in the shape of a host, whose cultivation and refinement pleasantly prepared us for an interview with his wife, whose appearance and manners would have graced any Fifth Avenue drawing-room.  She kindly invited us into her private apartments, which proved models of taste and elegance, although the house itself was neither better nor worse than the average Western railway refectory, The table was served by young women, and among them one of so striking and Juno-like an aspect that "our artist" sacrificed his dinner to the pleasure of sketching her, while she willingly abandoned her usual duties to serve as model.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Toward night, we catch a glimpse of Lake Michigan and its foam-crested waves dashing against the stone wall which restrains their incursions upon the city, and could fancy that we saw the broad Atlantic stretching before us, instead of merely and inland lake.  And now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Tired Nature's sweet restorer was sought with wonderful unanimity at an early hour, and the next morning, having breakfasted as admirably as we had supped, we made ready to explore the wonders of Chicago; for, like most other Americans, we knew less of our own country than of many others, and we determined to correct our ignorance without delay.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We found the fashionable avenues, Wabash, Calmut, Prairie and Michigan, wide, straight, and interesting as drives, from the number and diversity of handsome private dwellings, generally detached, and built in all varieties of styles and ornamentation; even the frame buildings are costly and ornate, and the brick richly decorated with brown-stone copings and carvings.  A favorite material, also, is a soft, creamy, yellow stone, similar to that so popular in Paris, and, possibly, the association, recalling the good-natured satire that good Chicagoeans, when they die, go to Paris, may have added to the pleasing effect.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The wooden pavements of the streets, although smoother to drive upon than stone, are the cause of a great deal of dust; and there still exists a difference of opinion between street and sidewalk, as to level, necessitating a system of steps, descending from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>There are very few trees, except along Dearborne Street, and the northerly part of Michigan Avenue, where the great fire did not reach, and where the houses are nearly all of wood and detached.  On Prairie Avenue we were shown a stately and magnificent mansion of brown-stone, standing in the midst of spacious grounds, and fronting on the avenue from the lake.  Our driver informed us that "Mr. Pullman was five years a-building it," and we gratefully hoped that the aggregate comfort conferred on the traveling public during those five years, by hotel and palace cars, had been built and cemented in those brown-stone walls.  The piercing wind from the lake, which is at once a blessing and a nuisance to Chicago, tempering the heat in mid-summer, but a little disagreeable in April, especially when laden with clouds of dust, made us glad to turn our backs and return to the more sheltered portions of the city.  State Street reminded us of Broadway, although with more uniformly fine and solid blocks of buildings, nearly all of yellow brown-stone.  Clark Street is its rival; property-holders in each street vieing with each other since the fire, in the attempt to make their own street the centre of importance.  The same rivalry exists between the avenues of private residences, and from this laudable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>In State Street we paused at the Corn Exchange, a fine building, <HI REND="italics">per se</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Our next visit was to the Academy of Fine Arts, which we found up-stairs in a big stone building, devoted, as it seemed, to almost everything else under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The Academy possesses but two rooms, in which students in oils, water-colors, crayons, still-life and portraits are jumbled promiscuously together.  There is no life-school proper, although a few were drawing and painting from the model--only the head, however--and most of the drawing is from the flat.</P>
115.sgm:<P>From these rooms we visited a few studios, finding the majority of them not much in advance of the Academy.  In one, however, we encountered a lady whose olive-tinted skin and dark eyes proclaimed her of the Latin race.  She was working industriously at a pastel head of a beautiful young girl, and with the vigorous and rapid touch of a sure and experienced artist.  The imperfect English and marked coldness of the few words our remarks elicited induced us to address her in Italian, and the advance was met by a vivid upward flash of the dark eyes, that wonderful brightening of the skin so much more striking in an olive complexion than the pink blush of the Saxon, and the breathless reply: "No, I am Parisian; perhaps Madame speaks French?"  We replied in the affirmative, and then came such a torrent of words instead of the icy monosyllables of the first few moments, and in five minutes we listened to a dissertation on Art in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Next we visited another studio, also that of a lady, but this time a landscape-painter; the artist herself was absent, but the honors were done by the quaintest little object in life, whom we found encased in an immense pinafore, perched upon a high stool and working away for dear life upon a brilliantly colored picture.  He announced himself as twelve years old, although that number of years seemed altogether too liberal an allowance, and stated that the spirit of an artist burned in his bosom, and he was one of Madame's pupils.  His idea of art seemed to be the getting over the largest amount possible of canvas in the least possible time, and his faith in his preceptress in this line was unbounded.  After a brief inspection of the other treasures of the studio, we took leave of our Michael Angelo in embryo, wishing him, a little sadly, the realization of all his brilliant dreams.  He responded confidently, and we left him scrambling up to his perch again, to resume work upon the big, bright picture.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The next afternoon we started for a survey of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>It was Sunday afternoon, and the respectable <HI REND="italics">bourgeoisie</HI>
115.sgm: and family men of Chicago were out with wives and olive - branches, in wagons of every pattern and degree, in spite of the piercing wind and blinding dust.  The more aristocratic part of the population was not visible, and one wondered whether the New England element in Chicago is strong enough to render Sunday driving unpopular, or whether the <HI REND="italics">e&acute;lite</HI>
115.sgm: preferred staying at home to dream of the <HI REND="italics">Champs Elyse&acute;es</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The Shore Road led us into the Park, just now in the same embryotic condition New Yorkers can recall as prevalent some dozen years ago in Central Park, and let us hope as glorious a result is in store for the former as well as the latter creation.  There is the beginning here of a zoological collection, already quite rich in birds.</P>
115.sgm:<P>On our way home we saw the large frame house which, oddly enough, was the only one left standing in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"THE THOUSAND MILE TREE."</P>
115.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Relics of the fire meet one at every turn; lots piled up with blackened brick and stone and dismal rubbish, and sometimes the picturesque shell of a ruin.  We were shown the small block of dwelling-houses used as a hotel after the fire, when every hotel in Chicago was burned.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Aldene Square, probably called square because it is round, is a charming little park, containing drives, trees, flowers, fountains, etc., and nearly surrounded by a series of houses, various in size and construction, but of equal elegance, and all built by a single man.</P>
115.sgm:<P>To sum up the impression produced by a careful study of Chicago, it is a city of magnificent beginnings, a thing of promise.  Few American cities can boast so many noticeably handsome dwellings, or such massive blocks of stone along the business streets, but the crudity of youth is as inextricably mingled with the promise of maturity as in a big-boned boy of eighteen, or a blushing girl of thirteen, from whom one parts with resignation for a time, looking pleasurably forward to renewed intercourse a few years later.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We remarked, that physicians' names, instead of appearing on the door-plates, as with us, were lettered in black or gold on the glass light above the front door, and along with the number, a great facility, one would imagine, for those seeking medical services after nightfall, but, <HI REND="italics">per contra</HI>
115.sgm:, the names of streets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>We sit down to our last meal at the Grand Pacific Hotel, cast a final admiring glance at its cheerful parlors, wide corridors, superb dining-hall, murmur a grateful acknowledgment of the faultless <HI REND="italics">cuisine</HI>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GRAND PACIFIC HOTEL, CHICAGO.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>HOTEL CARS <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
115.sgm:<P>ON arriving at the station, we find that we have exchanged our beloved Wagner Home for the famous Pullman Hotel Car, exhibited at the Centennial Exposition, and built at a cost of $35,000.  We are greeted on entering, by two superb pyramids of flowers, one from Mr. Potter Palmer, and the other with compliments of the Pullman Car Co.; then new-found Chicago friends arrive in rapid succession, to wish us God-speed, and, in the midst of a cheerful bustle and excitement, we are off, able to look about us at our new home.  First, we are impressed with the smooth and delightful motion, and are told it is owing to a new invention, in the shape of paper wheels applied to this car, and incredible though the information sounds, meekly accept it, and proceed to explore the internal resources of our kingdom.  We find everything closely resembling our late home, except that one end of the car is partitioned off and fitted up as a kitchen, storeroom, scullery--reminding one, in their compactness and variety, of the little Parisian <HI REND="italics">cuisines</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Our <HI REND="italics">chef</HI>
115.sgm:, of ebon color, and proportions suggesting a liberal sampling of the good things he prepares, wears the regulation snow-white apron and cap, and gives us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:cordial welcome and information; showing us, among other things, that his refrigerator and larder are boxes adroitly arranged beneath the car, secured by lock and key, and accessible at every station.  At six the tables are laid for two each, with dainty linen, and the finest of glass and china, and we presently sit down to dinner.  Our repast is Delmonican in its nature and style, consisting of soup, fish, <HI REND="italics">entre&acute;es</HI>
115.sgm:<P>We are not a late party that night, retiring at ten, and in the morning are startled by an announcement from the "Sultana," a tall, willowy woman, with dark, almond-shaped eyes, who affects brilliant tints, and lounges among her cushions and wraps of crimson and gold, with a grace peculiarly her own, and with a luxuriance so Eastern, as to have won for her the <HI REND="italics">sobriquet</HI>
115.sgm:<P>At Dixon, the train stopped for the passengers' supper, and we stole away for a little exercise and solitude.  A storm was imminent, the distant thunder <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>"What a dismal scene!" exclaimed some one, looking out of the window.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"We are very fortunate to be snugly ensconced, with plenty of lights and dinner in prospect," replied the Sultana, drawing her cashmere about her shoulders.</P>
115.sgm:<P>By breakfast-time the scenery had changed, the rolling prairie giving place to a succession of low bluffs--steep, hilly, brown, and infinitely wild; then came a quiet little lake, dotted over with wild ducks; more hills growing green in the hollows; swamp-willows budding redly; herds of grazing cattle and wild, shaggy horses; until, at last, we roll into a long, flat, straggling town, and are told it is Council Bluffs.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"And why Council Bluffs?" we suavely inquire of the wise man who gives us this information.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Because, on these bluffs the Indians assembled in council; also because, beneath the shadow of the Bluffs in 1853, a little company of enterprising spirits held a council as to the propriety of building the City of Omaha, upon the opposite shores of the Missouri; also because the Conductor counsels us to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>"Enough! enough! your last reason is conclusive."  And a few minutes later we are rolling over the magnificent bridge, said to be one of the finest in the world, and almost a thousand feet in length.  The stream--weak coffee as to complexion, pea-soup as to consistence--rolls sluggishly between its iron piers.  As for the bridge itself, its cost, its construction, its ingenuity, is it not written in all the guide-books, all the travels, all the diaries of all the <HI REND="italics">voyageurs</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Arrived in Omaha, the true beginning, perhaps, of our California trip, we took a carriage, and set forth to view the town.  We found it big, lazy, and apathetic; the streets dirty and ill-paved; the clocks without hands to point out the useless time; the shops, whose signs mostly bore German names, deserted of customers, while principals and clerks lounged together in the doorways, listless and idle.  This depressing state of affairs is, presumably, temporary, for we were told that, two years ago, Omaha was one of the most thriving and busy cities of the West, claiming for itself, indeed, a place as first commercial emporium of that vast section; and, certainly, its position at the terminus of the three great Eastern roads, and the beginning of the one great Western one, would naturally entitle it to that pre-eminence, when aided by the enterprise and the dollars of such men as have, in twenty years, built a great city from a wayside settlement.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>"No rooms to be had!" exclaimed he.  "Then I'll build me a hotel!"--and he did, within six weeks.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Returning to the station, we found the platform crowded with the strangest and most motley groups of people it has ever been our fortune to encounter.  Men in alligator boots, and loose overcoats made of blankets and wagon rugs, with wild, unkempt hair and beards, and bright, resolute eyes, almost all well-looking, but wild and strange as denizens of another world.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The women looked tired and sad, almost all of them, and were queerly dressed, in gowns that must have been old on their grandmothers, and with handkerchiefs tied over their heads in place of hats; the children were bundled up anyhow, in garments of nondescript purpose and size, but were generally chubby, neat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:and gay, as they frolicked in and out among the boxes, baskets, bundles, bedding, babies'-chairs, etc., piled waist high on various parts of the platform.  Mingling with them, and making some inquiries, we found that these were emigrants, bound for the Black Hills, by rail to Cheyenne and Sioux City, and after that by wagon trains.  A family of French attracted attention by the air of innate refinement and fitness which seems to attach to every grade of society in <HI REND="italics">la belle France</HI>
115.sgm:<P>"No, no, me not baby!"</P>
115.sgm:<P>"What are you, then?  A young lady?" we inquired.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"No, me 'ittle woman.  Me helps mammy sweep," replied the mite; and apologizing for our blunder, we handed her some silver for candy, which she accepted with alacrity; and as we watched her setting off on her shopping expedition, a neat, pretty old lady, perched upon a big bundle, said, with much conscious pride:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"That's my grandchild, ma'am."</P>
115.sgm:<P>We congratulated her, and passed on, to visit the emigrant lodging-house and outfitting-shop adjoining the station.  The shop, although large, was crowded, and the air insufferably close; long counters ran across the room, and upon them, and upon lines stretched above, lay or hung, every variety of equipment desirable for pioneer life--clothes, blankets, mats, tins, hats, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>In the eating-room we "assisted," by inspection, at a good, substantial, homely dinner, neatly served at twenty-five cents a plate, and a placard informed the guests that children occupying seats at table would be charged full price; a precautionary measure not unreasonable, as it seemed to us, in view of the swarms of innocents who had certainly never encountered a Herod!</P>
115.sgm:<P>Lodging is the same price as dinner, and the superintendent of this part of the house triumphantly informed us that the sheets were changed every night.</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE INCLINED RAILWAY TO THE FOOT OF NIAGARA FALLS.  Page 21.</P>
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115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>THE UNMENTIONABLE PLACE.</P>
115.sgm:<P>AFTER passing North Bend, we came upon an Indian camp belonging to a portion of the Omahaw tribe.  The lodges--five or six in number--were of white skin, and picturesque in shape; their occupants gathered around a small camp-fire--the men, tall, straight, dark and dignified, wrapped in toga-like blankets; the women, dirty and degraded, with their pappooses bundled on their backs, the queer, little dark faces peeping out like prairie dogs from their burrows.  Further on we met a second band--half a dozen men on horseback--carrying their lodges bundled up and driving a little herd of shaggy Indian ponies.  It was a wonderfully new picture for us, the great plains rolling away on either side in apparently illimitable extent, clad in their richest shades of russet and tawny gold in the distance, and the tender grass and moist black earth close at hand, a wild mass of thunder-clouds crowding up from the south, and the low-hanging trail of smoke from our engine sweeping away northward like a troop of spirits, and this little, lonely band of Omahaws riding slowly away into the storm, casting uneasy glances backward at the flying train.  A second picture to place beside that of Niagara in memory's gallery, a second proof that the foremost of human <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The old emigrant trail here runs southward beside the track, and we had the luck to pass two real emigrant wagons: one, white-topped and rather neat-looking, had halted for the night, with the horses picketed out to graze, and the camp-fire lighted; while the other, dark, weather-beaten and forlorn, was doggedly making its way forward.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Our train stopped for supper at Grand Island, a considerable place, and, like most Western places, confidently expecting to be larger when the time arrived.  We dismounted to look at our first specimens of buffalo grass, a short, dry, tufted herbage, said to be the especial dainty of not only buffalo, but of all grazing creatures, who leave all other food for it, and unhesitatingly as a gourmand accepts fresh truffles.  In front of the station was a little inclosure with a most spasmodic fountain, beside which we lingered for some moments and then returned with alacrity to our Pullman Home.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Very early in the next morning we were awakened by the stopping of the train, for the gentle and constant motion had already become as essential to our repose as that of his ship to the sailor.  The conductor presently appeared to warn us that the detention was likely to be one of several hours, as an accident had happened to the freight train some five miles in advance, and the track was both encumbered and injured.  The prospect was not cheering, as the rain fell in torrents, and the prairie, sodden and gray in the chill <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The several hours of the conductor extended to eight, and required all the attractive powers of the Sultana, all the condensed result of her husband's journalistic and statistical studies, all the young lady's romantic fervor about the plains, and all the fun of the Bohemians, to fill them pleasantly.  However, "All things come round to him who will but wait," and to us came at last the delightful jerk of the train, as the iron horse straightened his traces and, with a shriek of exultation, started again upon his journey.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Arrived at the scene of disaster, we could not wonder at the length of the detention, for a herd of cattle, attempting to try conclusions with a steam engine, had been forced to retreat, leaving six of their number on the field of battle; and so inextricably had the poor creatures become wedged in the complicated machinery of the locomotive, that it was hard to decide where the one ended and where the other began, or which had suffered most in the encounter.  The cars lay scattered along the track, all more or less wrecked, and the engine, completely dislodged from the rails, lay beside them, a mass of ruin.  During our long delay a wrecker train had been engaged in laying a new section of track, and over this we slowly passed, resuming presently our usual rate of speed, which, however, rarely exceeds twenty-two or three miles an hour, that being conceded as the rate best adapted to economy, safety and comfort <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Soon after this we passed through our first snow-shed, very like a covered bridge or wooden tunnel in effect, and were informed that the U.P.R.R. had been obliged to construct hundreds of miles of these, and stone fences at different points of the road, to obviate the drifting of snow banks, capable of not only detaining, but of burying, a train.</P>
115.sgm:<P>And now, not without some little excitement, we arrived at Cheyenne, as it is styled upon the maps, the Magic City of the Plains, the City on Wheels, the Town of a Day, as romancists call it, or in yet more vigorous vernacular, H--11 on Whells, which latter is, perhaps, its most popular name among its own inhabitants.  In view of this reputation, our conductor strongly advised against any night exploration, at least by the ladies of the party, of the streets and shops of Cheyenne, stating that the town swarmed with miners <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
115.sgm: for, or returning from, the Black Hill, many of them desperadoes, and all utterly reckless in the use of the bowieknife and pistol; or, at the very least, in the practice of language quite unfit for ears polite, although well adapted to a place which they themselves had dubbed with so suggestive a name.  This opposition, was, of course, decisive; and the three ladies, as one man, declared fear was a word unknown in their vocabulary, that purchases essential to their comfort were to be made, and that exercise was absolutely necessary to their health.  Under such stress of argument the masculine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Cheyenne proved itself a fresh and vigorous experience of a true frontier town--streets dark and suggestive of all sorts of fierce experiences connected with the swarms of swarthy, rough-clad men, who lounged at every corner and filled every shop, yet never offered to molest the visitors by word, act or look, although evidently "taking stock" and remarking upon their unfamiliar appearance.  Our first visit was to an ammunition shop to lay in supplies for a pistol presented to "our" artist upon his journey, that first pistol which is to every young man now-a-days what the <HI REND="italics">toga virilis</HI>
115.sgm:<P>From this warehouse of death we passed to more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:cheerful scenes, and noticing, by the way, the curious effect in the dark streets of the transparencies hung out as signs by many of the shops.  The druggist's and jeweler's impressed us as by far the best stocked we had seen since leaving home, unless in Chicago.  Especially we expressed surprise at the value and beauty of the diamonds and other jewels exposed for sale, and were informed that these found a ready market, not only among the successful miners, who, returning from the Black Hills, are tempted to an immediate enjoyment of their new fortunes, but by the herdsmen, who bring immense quantities of cattle to Cheyenne, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Much was confided to us of the history, past, present and future, of this peripatetic and Hadean city, and also many assertions as to the unusual salubrity of the atmosphere and its virtues in all chest diseases; for it stands almost at the highest point of the long ascent we had been climbing ever since crossing the Mississippi, and is, to be statistical, 6,041 feet above the sea level.  Certainly there is a fine tingling touch as this rarified air reaches our lungs, and no doubt a residence in it might be beneficial; the <HI REND="italics">per contra</HI>
115.sgm:<P>It is as well, perhaps, here to put on record the result of certain subsequent investigations of ours in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:Cheyenne, after our return from Denver.  Between the two visits we had diligently read some interesting guide-books, which set forth the City built in a Day--so called because most of the houses were trundled hither on wheels from Julesburg as the terminus of the railway advanced--as a moral, decorous, and highly desirable abode; so the second arrival being in the morning, we spent half the day in searching for the City of the Guide-books, as we propose redubbing this child of many names, and found, as we had foreseen, nothing more than the typical frontier town we had glanced at by gaslight; a straggling settlement of wooden houses, minus good streets, and not a private residence worthy the name; the streets crowded with every variety of wild, rough frontiersmen--miners, teamsters, drovers, Mexicans, scouts, ferocious to look upon, but lamb-like in demeanor toward quiet strangers, stepping courteously aside to let us pass, respectful toward women, of whom, by-the-way, there was scarcely one to be seen in the streets of Cheyenne, and even when openly, perhaps rudely, stared at, refraining from returning the incivility.  We saw an emigrant train of several wagons starting for the Black Hills, one of the wagons being drawn by eight mules, whose driver managed them by a single rein.  A scout in a full suit of fringed buckskin was lounging about--a handsome man with long, dark curls falling from beneath his seal-skin cap, who treated our open and admiring curiosity with true aboriginal indifference.  Another galloped by dressed in a blue cloak over a purple jacket, high cavalry boots, and a sombrero, beneath <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>STARTING FOR THE BLACK HILLS FROM CHEYENNE.  Page 48.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>As an instance of the peaceful order now reigning in the City on Wheels, we may mention that the night before our arrival a murder had been committed by which a wife and children were left desolate; a subscription was going the rounds for their relief, and had already reached one hundred and fifty dollars; another man had been garroted and relieved of seventy dollars, and a large shop robbed of a considerable amount.  Our conductor, named Jim Cohoon, in telling of these things, casually mentioned that a few years ago, while fishing in a small creek near Cheyenne, with his two brothers, they had been attacked by Indians, riddled with arrows, scalped, and left for dead.  The two brothers were indeed so, but he, with seven arrows in his body and without his scalp, had managed to crawl three miles for help, and had entirely recovered.  He was a fine, handsome-looking young fellow, and so arranged his hair that the injury he had received was not apparent.  With some diffidence he exhibited his head to the gentlemen of the party, who explained to us that the scalping was not, as we had supposed, on the crown of the head, but considerably below, at the back, and was heart-shaped.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The public buildings of the City of the Guidebook were: A good brick hotel, five churches, a courthouse and jail, a City Hall and schoolhouse, two theatres, and such a number of establishments openly proclaiming themselves concert and gambling saloons, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Obtaining permission and escort, we first turned our steps to McDaniel's Theatre, conspicuously advertised as offering a "Great Moral Show," but whether permanently or for that evening only was not mentioned.  Passing through a bar gorgeous with frescoed views of Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples, and remarkable for its cleanliness, we found ourselves in the parquette, so to speak, of the theatre--a large room fitted up with chairs and tables, for the use of convivial parties, and served by pretty waiter girls.  The stage was narrow, the drop-curtain exceedingly gorgeous, and statues of the Venus de Medici, and another undressed lady of colossal proportions, <HI REND="italics">posed</HI>
115.sgm:<P>At the head of the stairs is a small bar bearing the notice: "No drinks retailed here"; and above, there is printed in large letters: "Gents, be liberal."</P>
115.sgm:<P>Returning through the bar, we passed into the gambling saloon--a large room, exquisitely clean and orderly, with a bar at the end, and long tables at each side, arranged for Rouge et Noir, Roulette, Keno, and our national game of Biblical memory.  Behind each was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INTERIOR OF THE THEATRE AT CHEYENNE.  Page 50.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>From there we went to the Opera House, owned by the same proprietor, and closely resembling the theatre, except in being more nicely furnished and without a bar or gambling saloon.  It boasts a band of eight pieces, and a troupe of twenty-five performers.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A little fatigued with our search for the "far-off, the unattainable, the dim," in the City of the Guide-book, we returned to our car, and found the Sultana, unlike her Eastern prototypes, making herself useful as well as ornamental, by the aid of the contents of a little work-box, with whose shining implements she deftly repaired "the rent the envious nail" had made on our last stroll.  The sight was homelike and tasteful, and a wholesome antidote to the Great Moral Show we had been witnessing; although inspiring some passing thought of envy and doubt in the mind of one more used to wield the pen than the needle, and just then forced by the pitiless logic of events to confess that although the pen may be mightier than the sword, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>This chapter closes with a transcript of one of the signs of the Magic City of the Plains, which transcript is offered to the study of arch&aelig;ologists and hieroglyphists:</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GAMBLING BOOTHS IN THE EARLY YEARS OF THE RAILROADS.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>THE GARDEN OF THE GODS.</P>
115.sgm:<P>GOING to sleep in Cheyenne we awoke in Denver, our car having been attached during the night to a train upon the Denver Pacific R.R. south from Cheyenne to Denver.  We breakfasted, and were still occupied in that pleasing duty when friends old and new appeared, intent upon hospitality, <HI REND="italics">ciceroneship</HI>
115.sgm:, and the giving and receiving of news.  Carriages were in waiting, and with little delay we set out to view the city.  It lies broadly and generously upon a great plain, sloping toward the South Platte, with the grand sweep of the Rocky Mountain chain almost surrounding it; suggesting by its lofty and snow-capped summits Alpine scenery in a softer and more genial climate than that of chilly Switzerland.  A large number of handsome houses have already been built on the western side of the city, facing the mountain view, and one foresees that when Denver shall be forty, instead of twenty, years old, this will become the fashionable and charming quarter; and, by the way, can any one explain what point of the eternal fitness of things is involved in the western side of so many cities being the aristocratic one?  In Denver it will be the Rocky Mountains, but in London, in New York, in Boston, there are no Rocky Mountains, and--but this subject is too wide for further <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The shops are spacious, well stocked, and city like, and there is the usual number of churches, school-houses, city halls, etc., indispensable to a thriving, growing, American city.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We spent the evening pleasantly at the residence of a member of the Colorado Legislature and a prominent citizen of Denver, who had kindly invited a number of the dignitaries of the State to meet us; and these gentlemen, almost without exception, impressed us not only as men of strength, purpose, and ability, but conspicuous for that genial heartiness of manner, and the gentle kindness of feeling which make the Western gentleman a new and charming type of his class.  Without trenching too far on private grounds, one may venture, perhaps, to say, that never was this genial manner and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The following morning we started with our hosts of the previous evening for a visit to Colorado Springs and its adjacent wonders.  Leaving our own car in Denver, we took passage upon the narrow-gauge railway called the Denver and Rio Grande R. R., running south from that city, and immediately began the steady upward grade by which it climbs the "divide" between the South Platte and Arkansas rivers.  We soon began to see snow upon the track, and the temperature of the outer air had sensibly changed.  At the highest point lies Summit Lake, a narrow little stream of water, lying in the shadow of a great sugar-loaf mountain, with a background of purple foot hills and the snows of Pike's Peak, which dominate all this region, and are the central point of nearly every view.  The waters of this little lake run impartially north and south, and in descending from its level we soon bade good-by to the snow, and welcomed the buffalo grass and cactus plants telling of a higher temperature.  We were now in the region of buttes, and saw ourselves surrounded on every side by their weird, fantastic forms--turrets, winged castles, needle-like shafts, heaped piles that might have been the home of ghoul or sprite of the desert, and detached columns of red sandstone capped with cold gray rock of every height and proportion, from a toadstool to a Corinthian pillar.</P>
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115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Colorado Springs, presumably so called because the Springs are five miles away, is not without its attractions.  There are five roads leading away from it; Pike's Peak looks condescendingly down on it.  The air is said to be excellent for asthmatics, who therefore abound here, and its morals are guarded by the sternest of liquor laws, which is met by the following humorous device.  A visitor consumed by illegal thirst is shown into a small, bare room, at one end of which is a closed window, with a shelf inside like a ticket-office, but having revolving properties.  The applicant approaches this window, beside which there is a slit in the wall, and passing through this latter ten or twenty-five cents, as the case may be, sighs audibly: "How I wish I had a glass of ale," or, "If I only had some whisky I should feel better," and presto! the window shelf is turned by some mysterious hand, and presently on it rests a mug of foaming ale or a modicum of spirits; the window is then hermetically closed, and law and order reigns supreme.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Manitou Springs, five miles farther on, is a different style of place, for now we are fairly in the region of the beautiful and strange, and at every moment the exclamations of one or other of the party summoned attention to a new point of interest, while the unsatisfied gaze was never ready to turn from the last.</P>
115.sgm:<P>At Colorado and Manitou Springs are the cottages of two of our most cherished American female authors, Helen Hunt, "H. H.," and Grace Greenwood; the former cozy and attractive, with a huge bay window, brilliant with flowers, attesting the taste of the owner, whom one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MANITOU SPRINGS, COLORADO.  Page 56.</P>
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115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>There are some fine hotels at Manitou, and several Mineral Springs of varying degrees of unsavoriness, as at Saratoga.  The one near Grace Greenwood's cottage flows into a stone basin by the wayside, and bubbles joyously over with a musical invitation to the thirsty visitor not justified by the flavor of its alkaline waters.</P>
115.sgm:<P>From here we drive up the Ute Pass, a can&tilde;on popular with those peaceful savages, perhaps for its beauty, more probably for its directness.  The narrow roadway climbs up between high walls of red sandstone, zigzaging its way beneath the shadow of stupendous cliffs, with a lovely little stream foaming and brawling far below, leaping down now and again into two lovely cascades, whose voice is the only sound in these eternal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>No finer effect, no more impressive scene, is to be found among Alps or Andes, and so, by-and-by, the restless world will know, and the Ute Pass will grow as vulgar as Chamouni.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Returning to Manitou, we branch off into a new direction, to visit the Garden of the Gods, whose happy, if not especially appropriate, name has lured us on through days of expectation, now to be rewarded with a fullness seldom vouchsafed to grand and indefinite hope.  The hard, red road along which our fleet little horses spatter so gayly, winds suddenly into a wooded hollow, a "park," as the Westerners call it, and we presently pause before a stupendous gateway, formed of two great parallel masses of sandstone--smooth, shining, and glowing in the sun with a vividness of color grandly shown out by the dazzling white of the quartz ridge, which lies like an outer wall of marble just outside all this dull red gold.  These colossal gates rise to a height of three hundred and fifty feet, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:and leave an entrance of two hundred feet in width, through which some gorgeous Pharaonic procession may be imagined passing, with chariots and horsemen and barbaric fanfare of brazen instruments, and captive kings, whom some grim enchanter will presently transform into the grotesque figures crowding the scene beyond.  But the Pharaonic pageant fades, and gazing through the gateway and across the garden of these strange gods we see Pike's Peak in the far distance, its snow-clad crest glowing like burnished silver against the pure blue of the sky, and close at hand the sharp spires and minarets of the "Cathedral Rocks," while a little further on sits the "Nun," who has strayed out for some open air devotions.  The garden contains about fifty acres of land, its floor of finely disintegrated red sandstone partially covered with thickly tufted buffalo grass, and silvery gray sage brush, while the hanging slopes and gentle rises are dotted with evergreen trees whose sombre green adds the shadow needed to sustain this riot of color and warmth and glow, which fairly makes the blood tingle in its excess; for surely never was sky so blue as that which bent above the Garden of the Gods, never was sunshine so yellow, never were snow-clad peaks and quartz cliffs so dazzlingly white, never red sandstone, whether of old or new formation, so richly red and glowing.  "A scene for an artist!" exclaimed a <HI REND="italics">litte&acute;rateur</HI>
115.sgm:, and an artist at his elbow exclaimed, in quiet scorn: "When the Creator wants this painted I suppose he'll make an artist on purpose to do it.  He certainly hasn't yet!"  But still one longs to plant Gustave Dore&acute; in the midst of that fantastic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Our guide, well up in the office, glibly catalogued this and that formation: this was the "Seal" and that the "Scotch Giant," the "Camel," the "Frog," the "Lion"; and pointed out how the strata of the detached rocks followed the same inclination, and ran parallel with the gentle slope of the ground; but having meekly received as much information as our shallow brain would contain, we drew back within ourselves to gaze in silent, ignorant delight, at these petrified forms of wonder--representatives left behind, as it were, by some unremembered age and race foretaste, perhaps, of wonders yet to come, when our age and race shall be the unremembered ones!  From dreams like these we are recalled by the Chief's cheerful voice, and again we pass the beautiful gate and enter once more the familiar cold gray of the landscape of the plains, where even the sky is less blue and the sunshine less golden.  Twisting our necks for one last glimpse, we photograph on our brain in a never-to-be-forgotten picture, the grand gateway, with its gorgeous color sharply drawn against the vivid blue, the great, snow-clad peak in the far distance, and the hooded Nun who seems bending forward to look after us as we are very reluctantly borne away.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Our next point is Glen Eyrie, a formation similar to, but much less wonderful than, the Garden of the Gods.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>EVADING THE LIQUOR LAW AT COLORADO SPRINGS.  Page 56.</P>
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115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The return from this region of enchantment to common-place Colorado Springs was over the flattest, grayest, most mountainous of prairie country, and in the teeth of such a wind as is only possible upon the plains, where neither tree, nor shrub, nor hillock breaks its force.  The chill and exhaustion after a morning of such excitement proved too much for flesh too weak to obey the willing spirit, and by the time we reached the Crawford House, where a good dinner awaited us, the writer was seriously ill, and spent a bad half of an hour while the others dined.  But yet, this experience is among the most precious of all that Western tour, for it gave us a treasure rarer than all the gold of the Black Hills--it gave us a friend.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Having already seen and admired her as our hostess of the preceding evening, we had quietly noted in her beautiful house the selection of pictures, engravings, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:books, and <HI REND="italics">objects d'art</HI>
115.sgm:, which proclaimed their mistress a person of high literary culture, artistic taste, and extended travel; we had marked with admiration the fine manners, the tone of the best society, the ease, cordiality, and <HI REND="italics">aplomb</HI>
115.sgm:<P>And now the dinner is concluded, the invalid on her feet again, and we are at the station, but are there informed that the wind is so high that it is not deemed prudent to start the train upon this narrow gauge road.  We pass an hour and a half in great anxiety, as we have calculated our day's excursion so as to return just in time to connect our car with the outward-bound train at Denver, and we are now afraid of losing it; but presently arrives a telegram with the cheering assurance that the train shall be detained until our arrival, which comfortable arrangement is carried out, not too greatly to the discomfiture, let us charitably hope, of the punctual passengers already on the ground, and obliged to await our arrival--another exemplification, by the way, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>And so we leave Colorado, enchanted with what we have seen, yet reluctant as the child who perforce must leave the feast while any dainties remain untouched; for we have heard of Grey's Peak, that mighty Dome of the Continent, with its wonderful views of the great Arkansas Can&tilde;on, from whose height one may gaze dizzily down at the river, two thousand feet below, silently flowing between mile after mile of sheer precipice.  We have heard of the mountain of the Holy Cross, where the sacred emblem has been set by God's own hand upon the face of an all-but--inaccessible mountain, the eternal snows that designate its form shining clear and white from the gray rock in which it is set, and visible at a distance of eighty miles.  We have heard of wild passes not yet fully explored, which may lead to wonders greater than any of these; of possible gold mines not yet opened; of traditional hoards made by the red masters of these hills, who, conquered, yet unsubdued, have died and made no sign; of all of these and more we hear, and yet, hurried by relentless Time and Steam, we turn our backs and depart, murmuring with Scherezade: "The best remains behind!"</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CROSSING THE MISSISSIPPI.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>CATHEDRALS, CASTLES, CITIES, NOT BUILT BY HANDS.</P>
115.sgm:<P>NEXT day about noon we once more start upon our Westward journey, pass through numberless snow-sheds and over a country more utterly desolate than anything we have yet seen, and reminding us forcibly of the Peruvian deserts; the only point of advantage being the thick mat of buffalo grass which, unpromising as it looks, is, we are informed, the favorite food of all cattle, and retaining its sweetness even when apparently utterly dry and withered.  To add to the discomfort of the scene, a blinding snow storm came on about dark, so that we were glad to draw down the shades, have the lamps lighted earlier than usual, and with dinner, cards, conversation and music pass as pleasant and cheery an evening as if the howl of the coyote did not mingle with the shriek of the wind and the fierce lashing of the snow against our windows.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Late in the afternoon of the next day the storm subsided, and the clouds rolling away like the vast curtains of Nature's grandest theatre, displayed a scene so magnificent, so novel, and so utterly changed from that we had shut out the night before, that we seemed to have passed through that snow storm from one world into another.  We had entered the region of the Uintah Mountains, and are about to cross Green River, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:whose vivid and poisonous-looking waters take their color from arsenical and copper deposits washed from the green shale abounding on its rocky banks.  But we have no time for geological or scientific studies just now, and give but a distracted attention to the lecture of the <HI REND="italics">savant</HI>
115.sgm: at our elbow--whom the youth of the party irreverently denominate "The bureau of information"--while the rapidly moving train whirls us on through this region, where Nature seems to have indulged herself in mad, purposeless exercise of her vastest powers, with little heed for man's approval or convenience.  In fact, so far from calling this country a new one, it impressed us as the playground of forgotten Titans: such lavish waste of color, of form, of power; such gigantic forces brought to bear, and the result left idle, a mere waste of supernatural energy; its only effect upon the world the blank astonishment and awe with which we--the nineteenth century flies upon the coach-wheel--stare, and gape, and shiver, and exclaim.  To describe these wonders, to chronicle them even, is not our purpose; are not the Guide Books intended for just that, and are they not excellent of their kind?  What matter, then, whether the grand mass of castellated, turretted rock one admires, with its low-browed gateway, its long, dark shot windows, whence Rebecca might even now be peeping to watch the siege of Torquilstone for Ivanhoe's benefit, be called Petrified Fish Cut, or the Giant's Teapot, or the Devil's Tavern, or the Tower of London?  For our part, we call them all the Castle of St. John, in memory of the enchanted tower described by the Wizard of the North, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>And now we reach Echo Can&tilde;on, and with bated breath and a zest of terrible delight tingling in our veins we sweep down with a grand rush and roar between beetling crags, and toppling crests, and sheer precipices, which now seem planted directly across our path, as if in reaching them the solid wall must open to admit us, or else we, striking full upon that impassive barrier, must be hurled back to the opposite wall, like the shuttlecock in a demoniac game of battledore.  But the road winds, and doubles, and curves, and twists like a snake--a miracle of engineering, as the Chief informs us, but one has no thought for that just now; indeed as the full breath of the mountain sweeps past and over our car we seem lifted upon its wings, and fly exultingly downward and onward, oblivious of engines and rails and pounds of steam, which, nevertheless, like the poet's roast beef, are the essential foundation of this rare and &aelig;sthetic delight.  Speaking of wings, we well remember a formation called the Winged Rock, where a pair of eagle-like pinions seem struggling painfully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PETRIFIED FORMS OF WONDER, COLORADO.  Page 66.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Many of these cliffs are curiously honeycombed by the action of weather and time, some of them appearing almost sponge-like in their reticulation; and we were grieved at being informed by our <HI REND="italics">savant</HI>
115.sgm: that, like most other peculiarities of this world, the buttes of this wonder region are doomed to be smoothed away by the hand of civilization; for the presence of such quantities of iron as go to the formation of the railway, and more especially the wires of the magnetic telegraph, have such attractions for the storm clouds that formerly swept harmlessly, or rather dryly, over this region, that the rainfall and the general humidity of the atmosphere have sensibly increased, and just in proportion the sharp outlines of cathedral spire, of witches' needles, of Titanic face, or soldierly sentinel have softened and crumbled, and "effaced" themselves, until some points of interest are already lost, others have altered to commonplace, and our <HI REND="italics">savant</HI>
115.sgm:, with a relish for which we could have set Follette at him, gave the region something over half a century to have lost every one of its special features.  If ever poor Louis XV.'s <HI REND="italics">bon mot</HI>
115.sgm:<P>On the overhanging edge of a cliff, high above our heads, appeared some mounds of apparently small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>And now a group of slender and fantastic rocks, surnamed the Witches, appear, remarkable not only for their weird shapes, but for the new combinations of color exhibited in their snowwhite surface, banded with red and yellow.  Why some other rocks are called the Witches' Bottles we know not, unless Mr. Gough may have been this way and deduced from petrified witches and petrified bottles a grand moral tradition in the interests of total abstinence.</P>
115.sgm:<P>From Echo Can&tilde;on we sweep into Weber Can&tilde;on, and are immediately struck both with the contrast of form and color; for here the detached and fantastic buttes give place to grand sweeps of mountain sides, and bold <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Near the crest of one gray crag we were shown some little apertures, said to be the entrances to caves where, year after year, the eagles build and rear their young, defiant of their enemy, man, who has yet found no means to scale this aerie.  Let us hope he never may, and that the bird of freedom may scream back for centuries an insulting echo to the train whirling like children's toys hundreds of feet below his home.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Presently we pass the Thousand-Mile tree, Nature's landmark for the round thousand miles west of Omaha; and here, a little farther on, upon a smooth mountain side, we see one of her very oddest freaks, in this, her old-time playground.  Two parallel ledges of granite, in places fifty feet in height, crop out from the hillside, and, holding a uniform distance of about fourteen feet, extend eight hundred feet downward to its base, where they disappear in a little sheet of water.  It is called the Devil's Slide, and it would be amusing, certainly, on a Winter's night, to see his Infernal Majesty disporting himself there in company with the harlequin Witches of Echo Can&tilde;on and their gray-clad sisters of Weber.</P>
115.sgm:<P>And now a grand, snow-clad mountain rears itself across our path, apparently forbidding all exit from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Following the strange instinct which leads so many of the godfathers of Nature's children to name them after the Prince of Darkness, this mountain is called Devil's Gate Mountain, and these portals the Devil's Gate.  Gliding through, we cross the Weber River once more upon a trestle bridge, with the waters roaring fifty feet beneath, and get a last view of it twirling past a huge gray wall of rock, in whose sunless shadows its waters, but now so bright, show cold and green, and then we look back at the crowding and apparently imperious mountain range we have just passed, admire once more their grand and snow-clad summits, piercing the cold blue sky and frowning defiance on men whose puny strength has conquered their inmost fastnesses, and evaded their grimmest terrors; and so we glide out into the level plain, draw a calmer and freer breath, and gaze around on scenes more familiar to our eyes than the wonders so lately gazed upon; for we are in Utah, the land of thrift and industry, of agriculture and irrigation.  We have been appalled by Nature in her unconquered might, in her resistless grandeur; we are now to admire her placidly yielding to man's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The barren plains become verdant fields, the squalid cabin of the usual Western settler becomes a neat cottage, with flowers and garden-produce growing at its doors; the odious sage-brush disappears before the system of irrigation, which it dislikes as much as the more human indigenes of the prairies; men, women, and children are better fed, better dressed, and better mannered; in fact, as we stop in the first Mormon village, above whose single store are inscribed the mystic letters Z.C.M.I. (Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution), we feel a vague doubt and bewilderment stealing over our prejudices, not to say our principles, and are disposed to murmur, "Certainly, polygamy is very wrong, but roses are better than sage-brush, and potatoes and peas preferable as diet to buffalo grass.  Also school-houses, with cleanly and comfortable troops of children about them, are a symptom of more advanced civilization than lonely shanties with only fever-and-ague and whisky therein.  Why is nothing quite harmonious, quite consistent, quite perfect in this world?" and Echo Can&tilde;on echoes "Why?"</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PRAIRIE DOG TOWN.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>SALT LAKE CITY; MRS. AMELIA'S PICTURE; MISS SNOW.</P>
115.sgm:<P>OGDEN, a city not otherwise remarkable, is the junction of the two great railways that unite sea to sea--the clasp upon the belt, so to speak, by which the contient is girdled.  In point of fact, the junction was effected at a place called Promontory, some fifty miles west of Ogden, and readers of the illustrated papers eight years ago may recall the poetic and picturesque interest attaching to the scene that took place when an engine upon the Union Pacific road, and another upon the Central Pacific approached, the one from the East and the other from the West, until they actually touched, while a libation of wine was poured upon the last tie, the golden and silver spikes were driven by the hand of Governor Stamford, representing the C.P.R.R., and Dr. Durant of the U.P.R.R., and a prayer was offered by a Massachusetts clergyman--a combination of heathen, Christian and civil rites, characteristic enough of our great Republic, and also of a work carried on and completed by Europeans and Asiatics, with Americans directing both.  Ogden is also the terminus, or rather starting point, of the Utah Central road, running south to Salt Lake City and beyond, and of the Utah Northern, running nowhere in particular as yet.  These two great and two little roads have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHINESE PASTRY COOK.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Our car being detached from the Union Pacific train, was connected with one waiting upon the Utah Central road, becoming, during that process, the nucleus of an inquiring group of Mormon and Gentile youth, and we were not sorry to find ourselves presently steaming southward at full speed, and enjoying a beautiful sunset scene, where the Wahsatch Mountains at the East and the Great Salt Lake at the West, with a smiling and fertile country between, make up a landscape one longs for time to dwell upon.  The distance from Ogden to Salt Lake City is thirty-six miles, and we arrive at the terminus a little before nine o'clock, just in time to hear the last part of a service in one of the small churches scattered over the city, to serve when the weather is too cold to use the Tabernacle, which, from its vast size, cannot be artificially heated.  The fragment of a sermon to which we listened seemed rather of a denunciatory than a benevolent nature, and turned upon the wrath of God toward apostates, and the propriety of rooting out those who had gone astray after Amalek.  We wondered whether this meant Ann Eliza, but could not determine!</P>
115.sgm:<P>Those familiar with Mormon doctrines and preaching, although not of the faith, aver that the more usual Christian teaching of charity, humility, patience and forgiveness of enemies is rarely if ever made the leading topic of any sermon; but that, as the Mormons are fond of likening themselves to the children of Israel and a People Peculiar to the Lord, their texts and lessons are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The next morning we sallied forth to view the City of the Saints, with the same odd sort of excitement and vague expectation one must experience in Constantinople or Tangiers, or several other places which stand out in a traveler's memory as typical of a state of society utterly alien to his own.  Nothing peculiar appeared at the outset, however, except that here for the first time did we perceive about the poorer houses that attempt at decoration, that consciousness that "a thing of beauty is a joy forever," which makes the difference between poverty and squalor; which shows that penury has neither broken the spirit nor crushed out the taste for refinement.  Every house, however small or poor, had its little garden in front, filled with flowering shrubs or plants, many of them fruit trees, in this Spring time of the year rosy or white with bloom.  Everywhere was thrift, care, the evidence of hard work, and a pride of ownership; and oddly enough, these homes of rigid, yet tasteful and dignified poverty, reminded me of nothing so much as a Shaker village, visited not long since--a place where nobody was rich, nobody poor, nobody idle, nobody overworked, and where a certain prim love of the beautiful everywhere gilded the necessity of the useful.  Is it that a strong religious conviction pervading a community, a religion that permeates every phase of life, has this effect upon outward forms of living?  We present the question to the psychologists.  As for the better houses, they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Reaching the principal photographer, who was an old acquaintance of our Chief's, we paid him a visit, and found a good assortment of views of the city and its surroundings, and a very civil and gentleman-like proprietor, who seemed quite amiably willing to impart the information we were thirsting to obtain.  He freely admitted himself to be a Mormon, somewhat defiantly stating that he had nailed his colors to the mast.  A picture of the Beehive, Brigham Young's principal residence, easily led to a discussion of Mormon houses and Mormon domesticity.  But our new friend considered it very unlikely that we, even the women of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:party, would be able to "interview" any of the upper class of Mormon wives.  "The ladies here don't like being made subjects of curiosity," said he.  "Their homes are just as sacred to them as yours in the East are to you, and they are very sensitive about being questioned."  Then he cited, evidently as a timely warning, the case of a titled English lady recently passing through Utah, and remarkable, as our photographer seemed to think, in possessing more than the usual amount of cheek--"as much cheek as a government mule"--some artistic effect of which feature probably attracted his professional eye.  This lady, as it seemed, possessed the troublesome characteristic of "wanting to know, you know," and attempted to gratify it in an artless manner by calling upon several of the Mormon ladies, and putting them to their catechism with the vigorous candor of a parish visitor.  The consequence was that Miladi got terribly snubbed, and what was perhaps worse, learned nothing, and went away next day to make up her notes of travel as best she could.  Having furnished this little narrative, our friend paused significantly, with a " <HI REND="italics">H&oelig;c fabula docet</HI>
115.sgm: " air, and then indulgently added: "But I'll give you an introduction to the leading Mormon editor of the city, and you can see what he will do for you."  Then he showed us some portraits of the various Mesdames Young, first of the recreant Ann Eliza, who "bolted," as he phrased it, upon the very day the President was about to present her with the title-deeds of the house she lived in.  "And here's the house," continued he, producing a picture of a neat little villa; "that's the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The next picture represented a lady of about thirty, well dressed, a little stout, with a strong, sensible, pleasing face, and something of a stylish air.  This was Mrs. Amelia, said to be Mr. Young's favorite wife, but this assumption our photographer scouted indignantly.  "That was only Eastern talk; there was a lot of nonsense talked in the East about the Mormons, and Ann Eliza had set a whole raft of stories afloat, but all about it was that Mrs. Amelia was a born nurse, and had taken care of Mr. Young through some bad times, and so he always took her traveling with him and liked to have her near him at home."  To a delicate suggestion about selling Amelia's picture, the artist shook his head; no, he couldn't sell that or the picture of any private lady.  He had been offered a hundred dollars for it, but it was not for sale.  We appreciated the fine feeling of this little speech, and mentally wondered how long our friend's position in Salt Lake City would be tenable if he offended Mrs. Amelia, and whether a hundred dollars would make up his loss in that case.  On the whole, we concluded that he was a wise as well as an amusing and instructive photographer, and so took our leave.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The editor of the Mormon paper proved a very intelligent and cultured man, and after a little talk he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:escorted us to see some of the lions of the place, first to the "Woman's Union," a large establishment, where the work of the women of Utah is collected and offered for sale.  It is under the charge of a lady called Miss Snow--although she is one of Brigham Young's wives--two of his daughters, and Mrs. Davis.  The large room on the ground floor was decorated with the American flag and three large mottoes done in white on a blue ground, to wit:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Knowledge is Power."<LB>"In Union is Strength."<LB>"Success to Industry."<LB></HI>
115.sgm:<P>The goods consisted of every sort of home manufacture: clothes of all descriptions, shoes, bonnets, straw hats, artificial flowers, laces, including some beautiful wrought Honiton, and a piece of the first silk manufactured in Utah--a silver-gray fabric, resembling Japanese silk.  Miss Snow presently entered, and greeted us pleasantly; she is a lady considerably past middle age, with a good and pleasing face, a quiet, refined manner, although cold and reserved, and a very precise and deliberate mode of speech.  She seemed perfectly willing to talk upon any subject which we introduced, and quite able to give information in any direction indicated.  She had been abroad, and told me she took cocoons of their own raising to Palestine, to compare with those of that country, and that the Utah article was pronounced fully equal to that of Oriental growth.  She quietly acknowledged herself the principal mover in the Woman's Union, the object of which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>In this connection she spoke of the hard journey across the plains thirty years ago, when, on the twelfth of June, leaving the place where Omaha now stands, they did not arrive at Salt Lake until the second day of October.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We touched slightly upon the peculiar institution of Utah, and I inquired if the various wives of one husband got along amicably among themselves, to which she decisively replied: "Perfectly so, their religion inculcates it; and besides, their work is so large, and their aims so high, that they have no time and no capacity for petty jealousies."</P>
115.sgm:<P>While talking we turned over some of the books by Mormon authors for sale here, and noticed a volume of Voyages by Miss Snow, and also a collection of poems, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CO-OPERATIVE UNION BUILDING, SALT LAKE CITY.  Page 75.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>A FIRST-CLASS MORMON INTERIOR.</P>
115.sgm:<P>FROM the Woman's Union our cicerone led us to the Deseret National Bank, a substantial brick building, and presented us to Elder H--,president of that institution, and twice Representative from Utah to Washington, where he gave such satisfaction to his constituents as to win a most enthusiastic welcome on his return.  We found him a fine-looking man, with marvelously expressive eyes, and as courtly and imposing in manner as appearance, and spent a pleasant hour as his guests in the bank parlor.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Mr. H-- spoke freely upon Utah matters, especially of its faith, professing himself a Mormon, but not a polygamist; having always, as he said, respected his wife's feelings too much to take another.  In fact, he declared very few polygamic marriages now took place in the city, although still common enough through the rest of the Territory.  He did not hear of more than half a dozen in the course of the year, and it was amusing to find this decadence from the primitive custom attributed to the same cause which excuses our city youth from taking matrimonial chains upon themselves, viz.: the increased cost of living, and growing demands of the fair sex.  Formerly, as the Elder gravely asserted, polygamy had been a different matter, more patriarchal in its nature than was now possible; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>"But now," we interposed, "the railway has come and brought a whole train of French milliners and fashion plates."</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Yes," replied he, with a good-humored twinkle of the eye, "harbingers of a higher civilization I suppose you think."</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Yes," we responded, boldly, "for before them the evil of polygamy will melt away as it never would have done before either civil or moral legislation.  Don't you think so?"</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Perhaps, perhaps," replied the Elder, stirring a little uneasily in his chair, and adding, cautiously, "that is, if it be an evil at all."</P>
115.sgm:<P>He then spoke of the position of women in Utah as being unusually elevated and respected; their actions were free, their opinions sought and regarded, and they had been offered the privilege of a vote on polygamy, which, however, they had declined to accept; they had the right of legislation in school matters, however, and could obtain almost any position they chose to claim and try for.  Sounding him upon the subject of domestic peace in polygamic families, we received much the same answer as from Miss Snow; certainly the wives harmonized, why should they not?  Each, if she chose, had her own house, where she lived in perfect privacy with her children; or, if they preferred, all combined in one united household.  Pushing the matter home, we inquired if he would be willing to see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>At this moment a genial, hearty gentleman entered the room, and Mr. H-- at once presented him.  He is, as we afterward learned, one of the principal merchants of Salt Lake City, and a man of large means; an Englishman, with the home accent still lingering in his merry voice, but quite free from English reserve and offishness; joining at once in the conversation, and speaking with enthusiasm of the beauty and charm of the women of Salt Lake City.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Madame wishes to know if they are a jealous race?" said Mr. H--, with evident enjoyment of the idea of seeing some one else put through the same inquisitorial questionings, ordinary and extraordinary, to which he had just been subjected.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Jealous!" exclaimed Mr. J--, "not they; they have no time for such nonsense.  They have their houses, their children, their sewing, their affairs to attend to, and if idleness is the mother of mischief, occupation is the parent of contentment.  Look at my wife, for instance: to be sure, she is an only wife, but if she were not, what time would she have for jealous fancies, with a large household, a family of fourteen children, their governess, and four servants to look after?"</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Fourteen children!" we echoed, involuntarily.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Yes" replied Mr. J--, with pious fervor; "we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Mr. J-- mentioned that he had been seventeen years in this country, that he was the only Mormon in his family, and that he had never regretted the choice he had made in joining the sect.  A short time since he took his two elder daughters and revisited the old country, spending some time upon the Continent, and bringing home a French governess for the younger children.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We spoke of Miss Snow, her remarkable intelligence and attainments, and, after heartily endorsing our encomiums, he remarked that she was one of Brigham Young's wives, but that she was merely "sealed to him for time," having been the widow of Joseph Smith, whose wife she would be in the next world.  In fact, she had long since ceased to live among the President's wives, but maintained the most friendly relations with him and them.  Inquiring into the nature of this temporary contract, we were informed that a woman once sealed or married to the man of her choice, was his to all eternity.  So long as he lived she could think of no other partner, but after his death she might, if she chose, seal herself to another for the remainder of her mortal existence; a mere marriage of time, not at all to the prejudice of those eternal relations to be resumed at her own decease.  One point striking us very forcibly in this exposition was the positive faith in another existence, implied by making such definite arrangements for its duties and pleasures.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Divorce is possible under the Mormon law, but is seldom applied for, and never granted except in case of ill-treatment, flagrant neglect, or the gravest offenses, and is not considered creditable to either party.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Mr. J-- closed by inviting us to call and see his wife in the afternoon, which we gladly promised to do; feeling that at last our fondest hopes were about to be realized, and we were actually to see the interior of a Mormon home and converse with a Mormon wife and lady.</P>
115.sgm:<P>While waiting for the hour appointed for this call we visited the theatre, where we found Neilson--the beautiful--rehearsing.  It is about the size of the Fifth Avenue Theatre of New York, neatly, but not very expensively, decorated; the colors pink and gray.  We did not see the rocking-chair in which Mr. Young is fond of sitting in one of the aisles to witness the performance, but two of the four proscenium boxes, we were informed, belonged to him, and some members of his family are generally to be seen there, as he is a zealous patron of the drama, and encourages a large attendance.  We went behind the scenes, and found the green room spacious and comfortable, furnished with piano, sofa, chairs, and a long mirror; the dressing rooms commodious, and the "star" chamber luxuriously furnished.</P>
115.sgm:<P>From the theatre we drive to Mr. J--'s house, a really superb villa; the fine sweep of the carriage drive cuts a lawn of emerald-green velvet, and is bordered with symmetrical beds of tulips, geraniums, and other brilliant flowers, and although not so remarkable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Mrs. J-- conversed much as any other cultivated lady might do, upon all sorts of subjects, until the gentlemen departed, <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
115.sgm:, for a visit to the stables and conservatories, when, with much circumspection, we introduced the subject of polygamy, and instead of being snubbed, as our photographer warned us would be the case, found our hostess as pleasantly willing to converse upon that as all other subjects; giving us such information as we asked in a quiet and courteous manner, saying neither too much nor too little, but holding herself so accurately within the golden mean as to give all her words an additional force and weight; convincing us that here, at least, we had the true woman view of this great and vexed question.  And still the quiet assertion was made that there was little or no dissension between the wives of the same household, but that all united harmoniously in the effort to make the home <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Remarking, somewhat impetuously, that we could scarcely imagine such a state of things, and that we were sure no "Gentile" wives could live thus together, Mrs. J-- replied, with quiet significance:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"We control ourselves, and make it a duty to subdue all jealousies and tempers that would injure the harmony of our home."</P>
115.sgm:<P>"But are there no women among you of such disposition and temperament that they cannot endure a rival in the affections of their husband?" we asked; and Mrs. J-- replied, with an exceedingly subtle smile:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"If there are, and if they have accepted polygamy as part of their religion, that religion steadily trains them in the duties it involves, and enables them to carry out whatever it teaches."</P>
115.sgm:<P>"But does not the favorite wife assume authority and privileges which the others are slow to admit?" we persistently interrogated.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Oh, there are no favorites," replied the lady, confidently, and then added, a little dubiously: "or at least there should be none; it is especially inculcated, that if the husband has any preference he should be very careful not to show it; and if a wife suspects herself to be the object of more than her due share of regard she should keep the suspicion strictly to herself."</P>
115.sgm:<P>"That is a very fine theory, Mrs. J--," we declared, laughingly, as we remembered Mr. J--'s declaration of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>"Yes, but I have tried it, and am very sure," replied our hostess, as courteously as ever, and, turning with an affectionate smile to the eldest daughter, she added: "Jennie's mother and I lived in the same house for years, and were always the best of friends!"</P>
115.sgm:<P>The confusion at finding into what a horrible blunder we had been led, baffles all description.  No doubt our hostess perceived it, but with perfect tact she went on speaking, without waiting for questioning, and we presently recovered ourself enough to listen.  "The women of Utah," she said, "considered themselves quite on a par with the men in all respects, with equal interests and equal labor to perform for the welfare of the colony, education of the children, social growth and public refinement and elevation.  These great aims naturally enlarged and strengthened their whole nature, and not only could they live happily and peaceably with each other, but they were faithful and devoted wives and intelligent and affectionate mothers.  It is the duty or the privilege of the first wife to present the new-comer to her husband, and if she is an elderly and motherly person, she generally helps and guides the junior, instructs her in household matters, advises her in the conduct of her new life, and sustains and encourages her in every way.  And I speak of these matters from experience," added Mrs. J--, quietly, as she finished this little dissertation; and the writer, still a little nervous in pursuing this branch of the subject with her, turned to the young ladies, and inquired what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:were their views of Mormon life and Mormon marriages.  They replied readily enough, and with the gay <HI REND="italics">insouciance</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The gentlemen here returned, and the conversation took a different turn, but in recalling it minutely afterward, it seemed to me that in spite of all Mrs. J--'s insistance upon the enviable position of Mormon women, and the charms and advantages of their institutions, the keynote of the whole system, so far as it related to women, was struck when she said:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"It is ordained by their religion, and their religion enables them to bear it!"</P>
115.sgm:<P>Cake and champagne were served, and the young gentleman of three proved himself a hero in the demolition of the former, somewhat to the distress of his sister.  One of the young ladies cut us some beautiful flowers, and we took leave after a long and most delightful call, feeling that we had at last gained some reliable information and experience in the ways of Mormon homes and the feeling of intelligent Mormon women.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>"And now," said the Chief, as we drove down the pretty sweep and out at the handsome entrance, "we have to do the Tabernacle, and pay our respects to his excellency the President, and we are done with Utah."</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE "TWINS," MARIPOSA GROVE.</P>
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115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>A LION THAT WE SAW AND A LION THAT WE HEARD.</P>
115.sgm:<P>FOLLOWING the suggestion of the Chief, we hastened from Mr. J--'s residence to Temple street, where, behind a plastered wall twenty feet in height, we found, not that gigantic monster of architecture, but the foundations of the new Temple which is to replace it as the scene of all the functional rites and ceremonies of the Mormon Church, such as ordination, baptism, "sealing" or marriage--both monogamic and polygamic--and burial; the Tabernacle to be reserved simply for preaching.  This new building is planned in a very ornate and imposing style, and is built from white granite quarried in the northern part of the Territory; teams of oxen were dragging in great blocks of stone, and a score of workmen were busily hammering them into shape during our visit.  But although five years and a good deal of money have already been expended upon this building, its walls are as yet only about ten feet above the ground, and the date of its completion is not named.  One cause, if not <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The Tabernacle itself, as nearly all of us know from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:pictures, if not personal survey, is a huge, bare, and very ugly building, with an oval, tiled roof, brick pillars, and no attempt at decoration outwardly.  Inside it is quite as ugly, but a little less monotonous, for in the centre is a fountain with four <HI REND="italics">couchant</HI>
115.sgm:<P>At the end of this great hall, two hundred and fifty feet long, by one hundred and fifty wide, and eighty feet high, hung a monstrous blue banner, blazoned with a golden bee-hive and the inscription:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Deseret Sunday-school Union."</P>
115.sgm:<P>At the other end was the great organ, of which the Mormons are justly proud, as it is said to be only second in size to the Boston organ--which is taller, but not quite so wide--and possesses a sweetness of tone really wonderful when the visitor is told that it is of absolute home manufacture, the wood and most of the other materials the growth of Utah, and the plan and construction are due to an English convert named Ridges, who prepared and built it in the Tabernacle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SOME OF THE LATE BRIGHAM YOUNG'S RESIDENCES IN SALT LAKE CITY.  Page 93.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>We found the President's houses and other buildings enclosed by a high stone wall, well filled-in with adobe, with arched gateways and wooden gates before each building; over that leading to the factories, stables, etc., is a double arch, surmounted by a beehive in the clasp of a monstrous eagle.  The largest building, occupied by a dozen or so of the Mesdames Young, is also distinguished by a beehive over the door, and is called the "Beehive House."  The other principal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The schoolhouse for the President's seventy children stands next the Beehive, and all these buildings, finished in smooth yellow plaster, with white trimmings and green blinds, are crowded close behind the high stone wall, shielding them from the street; in fact, we could think of nothing but the closely guarded seraglios of some Turkish Prince, and an odd desire to investigate the likeness and differences of Mohammedanism and Mormonism, the two polygamic religions of the earth, seized upon the writer, and may yet insist on gratification.  Following this vagary of the mind came an overpowering sense of the rapidity with which this poor old world of ours is losing the romance of her youth, and how realistic is the spirit of her present epoch.  In the days when the "Arabian Nights" were written, or rather orally handed down, what rapture it would have been to find one's self inside the precincts of the Harem of Haroun el Raschid, or even of the King of Oude; what heart-throbbings of excitement, what thrills of mysterious delight one can imagine, or can remember one's self capable of imagining.  But change the scene from Stamboul or Hindostan to these United <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>But apologizing for the digression, let us return to our tour, and look in at the Tithing House, whither in true biblical style, the people come, year by year, bringing literal tithes of all they possess, of whatever nature, and pay them into the common treasury.  But the finest building within many hundred miles, perhaps, is the Amelia Palace, a really magnificent house, nearly finished, and designed for the wife whom our photographer sternly denies to be the favorite, and whose name it bears.  It is really a splendid edifice.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Having looked at everything from the outside, we entered the Office, a large unattractive room, with a private sanctum railed off at the end, plainly furnished as a business room, and hung with portraits of the founders and leaders of Mormonism; among others that of Joseph Smith, who may be called the Father of that religion, although it is unfortunate that so blindly was it revealed to him, that one of the first laws laid down by him as an inspired direction to himself and his followers, was a stern prohibition of polygamy or concubinage, and his name is still on record as a President of the Church of Latter Day Saints in Nauvoo, Lapeer County, Michigan, excommunicating a certain Hiram Brown for preaching polygamy and "other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>"How do you do! glad to see you! pass on, if you please!" was the salutation, accompanied with a touch of the hand as each guest was presented and named and when nearly all had passed on and sat down, and the host resumed his own seat, an awful pause fell upon the assembled company, broken presently by a sonorous assertion from the President that it was a pleasant day.  This was eagerly assented to by the Chief, who added that the weather had been fine for some days, and the conversation flowed on in this agreeable strain for some moments, during which time we studied the personal appearance of the lion we had come out for to see.  We found it both formidable and attractive: a fine, tall, well developed figure; a fresh, ruddy complexion almost befitting a young girl; keen blue eyes, not telling too much of what goes on behind <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Perceiving that the interview was but a "function" for President Young, and one whose brevity would doubtless be the soul of its wit, we resolved to constitute ourselves the Curtius of our party, and, approaching the sacred sofa, remarked to the Chief, who was seated thereon, that we would change places with him as we had some information to ask of the President.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Chief rose with suspicious alacrity, and for the first time a gleam of interest shone in Brigham's pale blue eyes as he turned them upon the bold intruder, whose first question was:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Do you suppose, Mr. President, that I came all the way to Salt Lake City to hear that it was a fine day?"</P>
115.sgm:<P>"I am sure you need not, my dear,' was the ready response of this cavalier of seventy-six years, "for it must be fine weather wherever you are!"</P>
115.sgm:<P>The conversation established after this method went upon velvet, and, as the rest of the party began to talk among themselves, presently assumed a confidential and interesting turn, and we felt that what Mr. Young said upon matters of Mormon faith and Mormon practice he said with a sincerity and earnestness not always felt in a man's more public and general utterances.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Glancing at Joseph Smith's picture, we ventured the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>"But all this is over now thank God!" ejaculated the President, with a gesture of relief.  "Our homes are made, our country is prosperous, and our educational privileges are equal or superior to any State in the Union.  Every child six years of age in the territory can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>We spoke of the magnificence of the Amelia Palace, and he characterized it as "absurdly fine"; but when we suggested that nothing could be too much for so good a wife and so lovely a woman as she was said to be, he assented, and added, emphatically, "She is all that, and more.  Yes, Amelia is a good wife, an excellent wife and a lovely woman," with other phrases expressive of tenderness and esteem.  "Besides," added the writer, "the Beehive, which is, I believe, your present residence, looks to me rather shabby for a man of your position;" but at this he shook his head, saying: "There it is, there it is; extravagance and ambition <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>"But nothing will change the Mormon ideas of polygamy, I suppose," suggested I, for having, by means of the parallel trenches of Miss Snow and Amelia, approached the subject, I could no longer refrain from a direct attack.  Mr. Young glanced at me keenly, but replied, devoutly: "No, nothing can, since it is given to them by the grace of God.  It is not obligatory, of course, but it is a blessing and a privilege vouchsafed by Him to his chosen Saints."</P>
115.sgm:<P>I broached yet once more the question of domestic harmony, and asked if the children of different mothers could live amicably in the same house.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"I'll tell you something about that," replied Brigham, emphatically.  "My sister came to make me a visit some years ago, and staid here until her death.  She was not a Mormon, and did not believe in polygamy but she said she had never seen a family of four children as peaceable and orderly and happy as my family of twenty-four, as I had then.  She talked of it all the time, and never ceased praising this domestic harmony of which you speak.  You see, they are trained to it by their mothers from earliest infancy; it is made a part of their religious teaching."</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Yet, but who trains the mothers?" inquired I, audaciously; "what religion can make a woman happy in seeing the husband whom she loves devoted to another wife, and one with equal claims with herself.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Mr. President shot a keen, inquisitorial glance at the face beside him and answered, meditatively:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"You look like just the woman to do that sort of thing, but fortunately, perhaps, there are not many of that mind among us; as a rule, our women are content in trying to make their husbands happy and their homes pleasant--"</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Just what I was suggesting," interrupted I.  "That she should make it so pleasant that he would not seek another."</P>
115.sgm:<P>He laughed a little, but replied:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"That would be agreeable to the husband, no doubt, but it would be contrary to the teachings of the wife's religion.  She would not be a good Mormon wife if she allowed herself to follow such a course, nor could it, in the end, make the husband happy to alienate him from those whom he was bound to love and care for equally.  For my own part, I always endeavor to show perfect impartiality, and allow no one division of my family to claim time or thought too exclusively."</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Then do Mormon husbands feel no preferences?" asked I, ingenuously, and laughing outright he replied:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Well, perhaps; human nature is frail, but our religion teaches us to control and conceal those preferences as much as possible, and we do--we do."</P>
115.sgm:<P>The conversation was here interrupted, but the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>"But are all the women of Utah sure to marry?" asked I.  "Suppose nobody offers for them?"</P>
115.sgm:<P>"A woman feeling herself drawn in affinity to a man, and feeling inclined to seal herself to him, should make her ideas known to him without scruple.  It is her duty, and there can be no indelicacy in obeying the voice of duty," was the reply; and with this cheerful and hopeful vision of Mormonism before our eyes, we at last obeyed the urgent gestures of those who had not been so well entertained as ourself, and rose to depart, Mr. Young taking leave much more impressively than he had greeted us, and retaining, it is hoped, as pleasant a reminiscence of the interview as the writer.</P>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TAKING LEAVE OF BRIGHAM YOUNG. Page 102.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>A few hours later we had said good-by to Salt Lake City, with its many strange and peculiar objects of interest, and were steaming back to Ogden, there to reunite ourselves with the Great Pacific Road.</P>
115.sgm:<P>[Since writing the above, news comes to us of President Young's sudden death, and all that struck us as doubtful, or wrong, or ludicrous in the strange system of life he upheld, and of which he was the centre, disappears in the solemn respect and silence with which one remembers the dead whose lives have, even for an hour, intersected our own.  He was an honest and sincere believer in his own theories, and lived up to his own convictions of duty; and how many of those who sneer at him dare say the same?  A little selfish regret also mingles with the tribute we would fain pay to the memory of the kindly and courteous patriarch, who made us welcome, and exerted himself to entertain us even when ill and weary himself; for his parting words to us were: "And if you put me in a book, promise at least that you will print me as you have found me, and not as others have described me."  We had tried to do so, and now he will never know it; never know how kindly and respectfully we remember him, or how honestly we regret his death.  May the world deal as tenderly with his memory as we would do, and above his tomb let us inscribe: "Judgment is Mine, saith the Lord."]</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NEW MORMON TEMPLE AS IT WILL APPEAR WHEN COMPLETED.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>PHILISOPHY, SHOSHONES AND PIUTES.</P>
115.sgm:<P>SOON after leaving Ogden we caught another fine view of Salt Lake, with its bold promontories, and blue waves dashing upon them quite in oceanic style, and listened to some valuable remarks from the <HI REND="italics">savant</HI>
115.sgm:<P>"Apre&grave;s nous le de&acute;luge," remarked I to Follette, and we sympathetically fell asleep.  Waking some hours later, we found ourselves in what is aptly called the Great American Desert, and surely Sahara deserves the name no better; and yet, as if to mark the different seal Nature has set upon the drowsy Orient and the laborious Occident, the Eastern desert is strewn with only yellow sand, of no possible earthly use except to inspire the venerable conundrum about the sand-which-is-there; while our American Desert is composed of alkali, suggesting at once manufactories, mills, factories, companies, washing soda and hot biscuit, with an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HUMBOLDT RIVER AND CAN&tilde;ON.  Page 105.</P>
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115.sgm:infinity of uses not yet discovered, and not more incredible than the manufacture of Lubin's Extracts from coal tar.  Hundreds of miles of alkali going to waste, my country-men, ye men of enterprise, of capital, of ingenuity!  Up, my friends, in the words of the immortal hero of Waterloo, "Up, boys, and at them!"  Before we have quite done up the prospectus of the Great Anti-acid and Baking Powder Company, we arrive at Humboldt Can&tilde;on, and, albeit grown a little critical and fastidious in such matters, wake up to a good deal of enthusiasm and interest.  Another valuable dissertation upon the real destination of the waters of the Humboldt and Truckee rivers now arose; the simple fact being, that they pour their bright waters, year by year, into a lake unsentimentally named the "Sink of the Humboldt," wherein they disappear, and are seen no more, except in the shape of great white cumuli of clouds, which drift away overhead to carry the evaporated moisture back to the springs whence it came, for the "Sink of the Humboldt" has no more outlet than has Salt Lake, or many another Sink scattered through this Desert; and after all, no theory seems more feasible than that this entire region is the bed of an ocean whereon the unremembered people navigated their navies, lived upon the islands which now are mountain peaks, and idly wondered what might be the secrets of the submarine territory through which to-day we travel.  When in some great convulsion of Nature this ocean disappeared, perhaps overflowing in the Noahcian Deluge a smiling and prosperous land, now called the Pacific Ocean, the Salt Lake, or crevice deeper than the general <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Quite fatigued by such a "breather" over the hedges and ditches, swamps and brambles of science and supposition, the feeble female mind turns with interest to the contemplation of the noble savage, who now begins to be frequent and importunate at every station.  There are women clothed upon with filth of every shade and texture, woven or skinny; shawls and handkerchiefs tied over their heads, and about half of them carrying upon their backs a formless and silent burden, which, for filthy lucre, they would unstrap and bring forward, showing it to consist of a flat board, with a headpiece projecting from the top of it, and two skin flaps attached to either side of its length.  Beneath these flaps is strapped a pappoose, its patient face and black bead eyes concealed by a piece of dirty cloth thrown over the projecting board at the top.  Of course, the little wretch is very uncomfortable, and has every reason to complain incessantly; but such is the force of inherited nature, or of very early training, that never a sound is heard from their grave little mouths, and they probably have learned, thus early in life, that very little sympathy, and perhaps considerable hard usage, would result from any outcry.  One young gentleman, aged about six, the son of a chief, was dressed in a soldier's blue cap and a rabbit-skin cloak; not made of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The "braves," if they will excuse the sarcasm of so calling them, were somewhat more repulsive than the women and children, being equally dirty and more dangerous; as, for instance, a sewer rat is more disagreeable than a young pig.  They were dressed in blue trowsers, the gift of their indulgent Uncle Samuel, striped blankets and low-crowned stiff hats, with feathers stuck in the bands, and a mane of coarse, dirty hair blowing about their shoulders.  Many of the women had their faces painted in Turner-esque style of coloring, and begged vociferously for money, which they clutched with no pretense of gratitude or pleasure.  The men stood magnificently aside while this was going on, and our young lady who had been vainly trying to recognize the Fennimore Cooper Indian among these squalid savages, was just exclaiming, "The men, at least, scorn to beg!" when one of the biggest, and probably the bravest of the braves, stepped up to the pappoose-laden squaw, and, with a persuasive twist of her wrist and wrenching open of her hand, relieved her of the burden of superfluous wealth just imposed upon her by our Chief.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Lo, the poor Indian--squaw!" quietly remarked the cynic of our party, as the train rolled onward, and the young lady shut up "The Prairie," which she had been reading, and applied herself to Ouida.</P>
115.sgm:<P>At Elko we dropped the Shoshones and began with the Piutes, but did not perceive any great difference, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Now, too, we began to see the "Heathen Chinee" in numbers, and ill as their odor may be in Caucasian nostrils, we must say that their cleanly, smooth, and cared-for appearance was very agreeable in contrast with the wild, unkempt and filthy red man.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Toward night we began the passage of the Sierras with the help of an additional engine, for the grades are as steep as can be traversed, and occasionally the train seems to be plunging head first into some Avernus, from which return will be impossible, and anon scaling heights fitter for a chamois than a locomotive.  If one only knew how to say them there are marvelous things to say about this Pacific R.R., and as the author of a nice book of California travel nai&die;vely says, "If Americans were not the most modest people in the world," they would have, before this, convinced the public that no other piece of engineering, from Hannibal's eating down the Alps with vinegar,or the Great Emperor's road across the Simplon, to the present day, is to be compared with this passage of the Sierras from Ogden to Sacramento by Messrs. Stanford, Huntington, and the rest.  We never scientifically examined either <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>But of all the scenery of the entire route, nothing can compare with the Great American Can&tilde;on, heralded by the rounding of Cape Horn, where the railway clings to the face of a precipice, with a thousand feet of crag above and two thousand feet below; a river winding dimly through the ravine, and giant pine trees dwarfed to shrubs as we look down upon their crests.  No blood so sluggish, no eyes so dull, no heart so numbed and encrusted by worldliness but that they must be stirred and thrilled, as few things in this world can stir <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:its favorite children, by the sensation of thus flying like a bird across the face of this precipice, over the depths of this frightful abyss, suspended, as it were, between heaven and the inferno; where the daring men who first stood here among the eagle's nests were lowered from the top of the cliffs by ropes, and where, to-day, one feels that at any moment the Titan slumbering within the mountain may by a single sleeping sigh fling off unconsciously the puny insect that dares thus to traverse his stupendous breast.  The worst thing about language is, that it becomes so inadequate when anything of importance has to be portrayed.  Talleyrand might well remark that words were given to conceal thought or feeling, if either is a little out of the common experience; so, without attempting the impossible, we simply say to those of our friends to whom the Alps are a bore, Appenines and Pyrenees a weariness, and the Andes a tiresome impossibility, do go and see the American Can&tilde;on, Cape Horn, the Sierras, Donner Lake, Emigrant Gap, Yuba River with its dam, and all the rest of it.  The journey is luxurious, the expense no greater than three months abroad. and the result something which will convince you that you did not know your world as well as you thought you did.  Perhaps after all, however, the most original sensation is experienced as one from the level of the mountain tops looks across the sea of peaks to the horizon line on a level with himself, and feels that each of these crests represents a mountain which he would spend weary hours in climbing, if placed at its foot.  It is a world above the level of the world we know and habitually live in, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>At Dutch Flat, so called from being an unusually hilly and broken country, we came upon the first gold mining, the placer fashion being nearly out of style, except in some parts of California, where the root of all evil is still to be found on the surface, and small boys, when a circus comes into their town, borrow their mothers' tin pans and go into the field to wash out gold enough to pay for a ticket.  Hydraulic mining is the same principle carried out, for instead of a dipper full of water poured into a pan of earth, whole tons of water are brought in iron pipes and hurled against the faces of hills and cliffs a hundred or more feet high, until the earth is all washed down into the flumes below, and agitated until the particles of gold settle at the bottom of the muddy mass.  It is really wonderful to see what a force water thus applied can become; some of these streams, starting from a head of five hundred feet in height, and directed through a nozzle six inches in diameter, assume a power nothing less than awful; for great rocks, weighing hundreds of tons, are tossed out of their beds like the merest of pebbles, and the toughest clay and cement washed away like dust before their first approach.  Such a stream is, as we were told, solid to the touch and cold as ice, and either man or beast, upon whom it was turned, would find as sudden death as in the track of a cannon-ball.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A verdant and picturesque hill subjected to a course <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>At Colfax the train stopped for breakfast, and the platform swarmed with boys selling strawberries, the first fruits of the new climate we were entering upon.  At the right of the station stood a row of Chinese shops, each with its mysterious sign in red and gilded paper stuck up beside the door.  At a stall stood Chinese butcher, cutting up a sheep, and threading little morsels of the meat upon a long splint of bamboo, exactly as the Turks in Constantinople string "Kibaubs" for the watering mouths of the Faithful.</P>
115.sgm:<P>From this point the face of the country changed: vanished the mighty Sierras, the terrible abysses, the frowning black-green forests, the majesty and awe of the mountains; vanished, too, the desolation and desecration of the placer mining district, and we were in a garden hundreds of miles in extent, and teeming with vegetation in every variety; a lovely Summer land, fertile and blossoming spontaneously with a luxuriance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:the Mormons scarcely approach in Utah, even with the life-long and exhaustive labor they have bestowed upon their arid soil.  Sacramento, the centre of this lovely region, is like a gigantic bouquet, every little villa rising from the midst of its <HI REND="italics">entourage</HI>
115.sgm:<P>"Sacramento!" murmured the young lady, as she buried her face in a mass of roses presented by our artist, who had secured them from one of the urchins clamoring upon the platform.  "It is the oath of fealty by which man regains the Paradise he has lost."</P>
115.sgm:<P>"That sort of Paradise is regained by every woman somewhere between fifteen and fifty," murmured the Sultana, suffering her cashmere to drop altogether from her shoulders as the balmy air crept in at the opened window.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The only things that we never tire of are those that are snatched from us before we have fairly enjoyed them, and perhaps we should not remember this Paradise Regained so vividly but that we lost it directly in a region of the most commonplace and uninteresting prosperity, continuing until we reached Oakland, the end of the road, and standing in the same relation to San Francisco that Brooklyn does to New York.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Wearied, apathetic with over-exertion, and yet excited in feeling that at last we had reached the Eldorado, the City of the Golden Gate, the Mecca of our journey, we crossed the ferry, affronted the army of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE "NOBLE SAVAGE."  Page 107.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>THE PALACE HOTEL, PHOTOGRAPHY, AND THE STREETS.</P>
115.sgm:<P>ONE of the most interesting sights in San Francisco is the one that was first presented to our consideration, namely: the Palace Hotel.  A certain Englishman described it as a huge building "broken out into bird-cages," thus figuring the impression produced upon his mind by the tier upon tier of bow-windows which, whether they be considered as disfiguring or ornamental to the general effect, are certainly very comfortable to the inmates of the rooms thus beautified; besides--and here we claim the congratulations of those friends who have denied us a practical turn of mind--besides securing to Senator Sharon a considerable area of territory not included in the ground-plan, which, nevertheless, covers a whole square, measuring about two acres and a half; and it will be a convenience to conscientious pedestrians taking their matutinal promenade to know that to go around the house upon the street is to walk a quarter of a mile; or if their taste is feline, to go around the roof is to traverse the third of a mile.  Let us furthermore state, that the corridors collectively measure two and one-half miles; that twenty miles of gas-pipe are necessary to its illumination; that there are four hundred and thirty-seven bath tubs, and accommodations for twelve hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Driving in through iron gates and a stone archway, we entered an almost regal inner court, reminding us of the Grand Hotel at Paris on an enlarged scale; seven tiers of balconies surround the four sides, ornamented with frequent tubs of flowering plants, cages of singing birds, and sofas and chairs, where groups of guests sit to chat, or promenade up and down.  A glass dome covers the whole, giving a soft and tempered light during the day, while at night the place is brilliantly illuminated by gas.  On the ground floor the court is faced with white marble, and a circular carriage-drive sweeps around the centre, where stand groups of palm and banana trees, and vases of beautiful flowers.  Chairs and settees are dotted around the pavement, where sit the <HI REND="italics">flaneurs</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Mr. Warren Leland, that prince of landlords, welcomed us courteously and cordially, escorted us from the largest and most elegant reception-room, upon the easiest elevator in the world, to the suite of apartments on the second floor lately occupied by Dom Pedro; gave us the freedom of his kingdom, and at a later hour caused the courtyard to be illuminated from ground to dome, and a serenade to be given in honor of our arrival.  That evening we did little but make the tour of the drawing-rooms and other principal apartments, which are as magnificent as befit a Palace Hotel, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Next morning, after breakfast, we received the visits of several photographers, who have probably learned by inspiration the Chief's amiable weakness for this school of art and artists, and who propose to immortalize us in a group.  Not fancying that style of immortality, however, we compromise for large numbers of individual portraits.  Our attentive friends claimed, and we believe the fact is confessed, that San Francisco is the place of all places for the perfection of their art, the peculiar atmosphere lending itself most happily to the combination of their chemicals.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Like Rome, San Francisco is built on seven hills--the foothills of the Sierras; and nearly every street sweeps up a steep incline to a bold, rocky bluff, crested with villas and other buildings, giving a wonderfully picturesque look to the whole.  There are some stone buildings, but more of wood, and few exceed two stories in height, the frequent earthquakes, or "shakes," as they are familiarly called, making higher pretensions dangerous.  The style of architecture has been justly denominated as "San Franciscan," and the bow window is its exponent: not a house, from the Palace Hotel and the sumptuous mansion of the millionaire to the cozy nest of "two young lovers lately wed," but is studded with bow-windows, very many of them filled with flowers and bird-cages.  A lady to whom we noticed this peculiarity explained that the climate of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The most fashionable shops are on Kearney and Montgomery streets, the Broadway and favorite promenades of the city.  The windows of these shops are large, and showily furnished, but the interiors are of limited extent, owing to the high price of land in these localities.  Every imaginable object is to be brought in San Francisco, generally at very high prices; for, like most places of sudden growth, it is an extravagant place in dress, equipage, and general tone of living, the fortunes of the East becoming a modest competence here, and what would be comfort in Philadelphia or Baltimore dwindling to penury in San Francisco.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Many of the smaller shops are open to the street like booths, especially the cigar and liquor establishments, in one of which we saw a man throwing dice for a drink.  Most of the sidewalks are of wood, and the street-car tracks are paved with that material, although we were told that none but the Nicholson pavement has proved a success here, as the long, dry heat of certain portions of the year, and the persistent dampness of others, shrink and swell, out of proportion, the blocks of all other kinds of wooden pavement.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>The climate of San Francisco seems a point as difficult to settle as the standard of feminine beauty, or the intrinsic value of Wagner's music.  Every one agrees that it is an exhilarating climate, that the air is more highly charged with ozone than in most localities, that the brain-worker can accomplish more here in a given time than anywhere else, and wear himself out faster; for dear Starr King died of exhaustion, of old age, in fact, after doing the work of a generation for his adopted State; and such a career as that of W. A. Ralston would scarcely have been possible in any city other than high-pressure San Francisco.  But this ozone, this fourth-proof oxygen, is borne upon the wings of high, cold winds, piercing the very marrow of a sensitive form, and alternating with fogs and dampness, fatal to any rheumatic or neuralgic tendencies, and unfavorable to pulmonary complaints.  A few hours of nearly every morning are charming out of doors, and the rest of the day a fire or a bow-window full of sunshine is still more charming.  One person says, "The climate of San Francisco is all that keeps me alive"; and the next one shudders, "The climate is killing me; I must get out of town to warm my blood, or it will congeal altogether."  All confess, however, that this is the chilliest and breeziest point upon the whole coast, for it stands in a gap of the hills, guarding the shore for miles above and below, and once in the sheltered valleys lying between this coast line and the Sierras, one comes into a tropical and paradisaical climate as enervating to the brain as the breezy air of San Francisco is exciting.  Let us conclude that the climate, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>One feature of the street scenery in this city is the large proportion of foreign physiognomy and the accents of almost every language under the sun, which meet one's ear in all the crowded thoroughfares.  The easy access of the Pacific coast from the other side of the globe has led thither a class of Oriental strangers who are seldom seen even in New York, and not only the Chinaman, but his neighbors of Asia and Africa--"Mede, Parthian and Scythian"--here find a home, a field of labor, and a share, however small, of the almighty dollar, which has proved more lovely in their eyes than the lands of the bul-bul and the rose.</P>
115.sgm:<P>To accommodate these various tastes, various amusements, shops, theatres, and especially restaurants, are established at every corner, and the Frenchman, scanning the <HI REND="italics">menu</HI>
115.sgm: of the Maison Dore&acute;e, may fancy himself at the Trois Fre&grave;res, in Paris; while the German finds his sauerkraut, the Italian his maccaroni, the Spaniard his picadillo, and the Welshman his leek, each at his own house of refreshment; and the Chinese eating-houses are a feature of their especial quarter, to be mentioned hereafter.  To live in lodgings and to eat in a restaurant is San Franciscan as much as it is Parisian, and even families possessing houses and domestic conveniences are often to be found at one or the other of these establishments, dining or lunching, "just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>A fashionable restaurant for gentlemen is "The Poodle Dog"; "Campi's" is as Italian as Naples, and the "Maison Dore&acute;e" is Delmonican in every respect.  The code of social law in San Francisco permits young ladies to freely visit these establishments, even at the risk of occasionally encountering a male acquaintance, and a cynical observer may find more refreshment in quiet observation of the scenes around him than in meat or drink.  Perhaps, on the whole, we would not advise the widowed mother of a family of lads and lassies to carry them to San Francisco for social training; the Prunes, Prisms, and Propriety system is not universal, and although there is a large class of charming, unexceptional, and rigidly moral society, there are several other classes shading into it by almost imperceptible degrees; and the bygone days, when every man was a law unto himself in this city, have left their impress in a certain recklessness and willfulness of feeling pervading every circle.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The style of street dress is more gay and showy than is consistent with the severest taste, and an afternoon promenade upon Kearney or Montgomery streets reminds one of a fashionable "Opening," when the lay figures have suddenly received life and the power of locomotion.  It has been said that in other cities the <HI REND="italics">demi-monde</HI>
115.sgm: imitates the fashions of the <HI REND="italics">beaumonde</HI>
115.sgm:, but that in San Francisco the case is reversed, and the caprices of the former class are meekly copied by the latter.  It may be a libel; but we certainly saw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Noticing a goodly proportion of churches among the handsome buildings of San Francisco, we inquired if anybody ever visited them, and were indignantly informed that religion was one of the most flourishing imports of the City of the Golden Gate.  Everybody knows, of course, that it was originally founded as a mission by the Franciscan Fathers, the first of whom, the Padre Junipero Serra, scandalized that no station had as yet been dedicated to his patron saint, prayed to him for a fortunate harbor in his next voyage of exploration; and being led or driven through the Golden Gate, considered that the Saint thus indicated the spot where he would have his altar erected, and so named the waters upon which the mission vessel floated, "The Bay of San Francisco."  The Mission House and Church were more elaborately styled "Los Dolores de nuestro Padre, San Francisco de Assissi," and is still called the Mission Dolores; while the presidio and fort erected to protect the good monks in their holy work was called San Francisco, and the town that languidly grew around them took the name of Yerba Buena, from a medicinal plant growing abundantly in the vicinity.  It was not until 1847 that the name of San Francisco was formally given to the little town, then just upon the eve of its marvelous upward bound to the rank of a great city.  The Romish faith thus planted has kept its ascendancy in the city of San Francisco d'Assissi, and claims to-day about one-half <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Returning from our first tour of the city we dined in the grand hall of the Palace Hotel, where stand four rows of tables, with space for three persons to walk abreast between them, the whole lighted by twelve great crystal chandeliers.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A note from Mr. Barton Hill, whose artistic ability, so well known at the East, is here united to a managerial position, invited us all to his theatre, where three boxes were set apart for our accommodation.  The star was Alice Dunning, and our eyes were so abundantly feasted that the treat to the ears was a work of supererogation, the one sense absorbing all one's capacity for enjoyment.  And so back to repose in Dom Pedro's sumptuous apartments and to dream of the morrow.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>A PRINCE AND A PALACE.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A FEW days after our arrival in San Francisco we gladly accepted an invitation from Senator Sharon to pass some days at his country house of Belmont, a name so intimately associated with that of its late master, William A. Ralston, whose life and death form one of the most startling and extraordinary episodes of San Franciscan history, that we must pause here to speak one word of a man through whose means hundreds of persons fell from affluence to penury; and yet of whose death those very persons spoke with tears in their eyes, as a public loss and misfortune.  Mr. Ralston was the Napoleon of speculators, and, like the great Emperor, his career of unparalleled success was closed by a Waterloo of utter defeat.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A self-made man, he rose from the smallest beginnings to the position of banker and broker before he was thirty years old, and in the time of the war managed the business of his firm so successfully that his correspondents in New York urged him to come hither and consolidate his business with theirs, promising that the firm thus formed should become the leading banking-house in the country.  It was then that Mr. Ralston laid the corner stone of the monument to his own memory in San Francisco, which even the earthquake of his failure and death could not overthrow.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BELMONT, THE COUNTRY-SEAT OF THE LATE W. A. RALSTON. Page 125.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>"No," said he, in answer to Mr. Kelly's letter, "we have made our money in California, and if it is the nucleus of a business that shall bring credit and advantage to the city where it is established, that city shall be San Francisco, and the men who profit by it shall be San Franciscans."</P>
115.sgm:<P>That sentence was the key-note of his subsequent career.  Princely in his outlays, Oriental in his magnificence, audacious in his enterprises, the millions he lavished upon business undertakings, or palatial residences, or hospitality such as seems only possible in an Arabian Night's Entertainment, were all expended at home; the money passing into his hands from hundreds of wealthy and confiding fellow citizens, passed through them to the hands of thousands of other fellow citizens, who lived by him and who adored him.</P>
115.sgm:<P>As President and Manager of the Bank of California, Mr. Ralston found ample opportunities for fostering the prosperity and the interests of his adopted State, and used them grandly and fearlessly.  The mining interests, manufacturing and commercial enterprises, private schemes, if undertaken for the general good, all derived sustenance from this rich fountain-head, and the country grew and throve as thousands of little rills trickled from it through arid and thirsting deserts.</P>
115.sgm:<P>It was in these days that Ralston built Belmont, a palace costing a million and a half of dollars, standing in the midst of two hundred acres of pleasure grounds.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>It was no uncommon thing in the days of Belmont's glory for its master to engage a special train of cars, fill it with guests, a band of music, flowers, and all that could add to the sumptuousness of a banquet, and make a sort of royal progress to his palace, there to spend a night and day of feasting and merriment.  Abstemious and frugal in his own habits, of the table, of dress, or equipage, he never wearied of heaping attentions and gifts upon his guests; and the story of his sending a check of ten thousand dollars to the man who in his early days had lent him five hundred dollars, is but one of a score of similar anecdotes lovingly told to-day by men not yet recovered from the shock his failure gave to their own financial concerns.  It was in the very midst, at the very height, of his splendor that the crash came.  The Bank of California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Some men gave a harsh and ugly name to this death; others, more charitable, named it accident.  Who shall decide? who shall read the secrets of that proud, wounded, nay, broken heart? who shall venture to condemn this man, who dared and lost so much, and who, having reached the summit of earthly prosperity, found it easier, perchance, to fall from that into God's mercy than into man's contempt?</P>
115.sgm:<P>Senator Sharon was his friend and partner.  Together they built the Palace Hotel, costing six millions of dollars.  In addition to the four millions constituting his share of the property, Ralston was, at the time of his death, building a million-dollar private residence on Pine street, carrying a million or more in the Grand Hotel, supporting several manufacturing companies, and keeping the credit of the Bank of California to a ten million dollar standard, when it was really nothing but an insolvent shell.  He died owing sixteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The public excitement at his death was intense: bankrupt men stood openly crying in the street--not that they were ruined, but that Ralston was dead; the garb or badge of mourning was everywhere displayed; the flags in the harbor drooped at half mast; bells tolled; business was suspended; great meetings of his friends collected to pass resolutions, to concert his obsequies, to pay him every honor that the dead can receive.  The poorer people, who could do none of these great things, told of the benefits he had ever heaped upon their class, and on them; they gave him those words of praise and blessing which, from the lips of "God's own poor," are perhaps a more costly tribute than the flowers or the catafalque, or the music, or the stately monument that wealth can give.  The funeral procession was four miles long, and when its head reached the grave the rear had not stirred from Calvary Church, where the obsequies took place.</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SALMON FISHING, SACRAMENTO RIVER.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>A MEMORABLE VISIT.</P>
115.sgm:<P>BELMONT lies twenty-five miles south of San Francisco, and is reached by the S.P.R.R. after an hour's ride over a flat and uninteresting country, cut up into fields and market-gardens, irrigated by ditches, and cultivated by bare-legged Chinamen.  Every house has its water tank, with a whirling mill to fill it; and the scene is quite Dutch, in spite of John in the foreground and the Sierras in the distance.</P>
115.sgm:<P>There is a pretty little station at Belmont, built by Mr. Ralston for his own accommodation, but we left the train at San Matteo, a few miles north, where Senator Sharon's four-in-hand and other carriages were waiting for our party, now pleasantly enlarged by the addition of Senator Conover of Florida, his beautiful young wife, her brother, and a distinguished Cuban friend.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The drive was through a region of delight for more senses than one, since not only were the eyes charmed with Nature's finest shows, but the scent and feeling of the soft air lazily drifting across our faces was delicious beyond account; surely the goddess of this land is sweeter breathed, as well as fairer, than our northern divinities, and the fruit she holds out with both hands to her guests more luscious.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We drove through the grounds of several private houses, as is the friendly custom here, and noticed that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>At sunset we drove into the precincts of Belmont, passing a large pleasure-ground known as Belmont Park, the favorite picnic spot of the Italians in San Francisco.  The carriages passed slowly on between rows of every beautiful, graceful, and rare tree that can be named; locusts laden with white blossoms, tulip trees, catalpas, magnolias; and as we neared the house a lower growth of feathery pepper-trees, laden with dull red berries, hedges of geranium and roses, trellises of passion-flowers and stephanosies, until at last these artistically graduated into belts and plots of low-growing brilliant flowers, blooming up to the doors of the great house.  This, made of wood and painted white, is not, perhaps, so imposing in its exterior as one is led to expect from so magnificent an approach, but like Oriental mansions it reserves its wonders and its luxury for those so happy as to enter.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The situation, upon a sloping hill, is quite artistic, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:giving a very effective outlook from the house itself.  Driving under a <HI REND="italics">porte coche&grave;re</HI>
115.sgm: covered with climbing yellow roses, we crossed the threshold, and entered into what seemed more like the disordered vision of an architect than a sober American country house, for beyond saying that there is everywhere a pervading effect of lightness, and brightness, and airiness, and cool repose, and luxury, and comfort, it is all but impossible to give any idea of this delightful house.  The first feature distinctly appreciated is the absence of any doors throughout the first story.  A wide corridor, once a piazza, runs around three sides, its floor of native woods, polished like a mirror, in the style of old French cha&circ;teaux; cane and bamboo chairs, Chinese settees, inlaid tables, and tall vases of flowers furnish this gallery, and from it open, through great French windows, the parlor, dining, billiard and drawing rooms, while at the left hand lies a superb music and dancing room, lighted through a glass dome by day, and at night by graceful and elaborate chandeliers of silver and crystal.  The walls are paneled with mirrors and frescoed in gold and neutral tints, and in a niche lined with mirrors stands a grand piano, remarkable for its case of light, satiny, native wood.  Chinese furniture, light, elegant, and curious, some statues, vases, and plenty of flowers, furnished this room, one of the most charming possible to imagine.  The great dining and billiard rooms have waxed floors, but the parlor, in which a bright, cheery fire was burning, is a cozy little carpeted room, eminently home-like in its aspect, with some fine bronzes, a wonderful Chinese centre-table, and some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:Indian arm-chairs of carved wood, big enough for three people.  In the centre of the house, and upon which all these rooms open, is a square hall, from which winds up a great staircase.  Here stands a tall, old-fashioned clock, such as was familiar to some of us in our childish visits to our grand-parents, with the sun and moon beaming jollily from its dial, and its <HI REND="italics">primo basso</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Before dinner we took a little stroll in the grounds, looking at the stables niched into the side of a hill, with imposing stone front, and spending some time in the fernery, which is really exquisite, with a lovely stone fountain trickling into a mossy stone basin; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Mr. Sharon, as we have said, was the friend and partner of the unfortunate Ralston, assumed many of his debts, and accepted much unremunerative property in satisfaction of his own claims.  He is a man of wonderful instinctive appreciation of character, a gift affecting his general manner; for, while remarkably frank and outspoken among those whom he finds congenial, he is chilling and reserved to those who impress him unfavorably.  He is a man of great and comprehensive ability, and has need of it in attending, as closely as he does, not only to his duties as United States Senator from Nevada, but to the care of his own colossal fortune and domestic duties.  But with all of these he has Byron, and Moore, and some of our more modern poets at his fingers' ends, and is a vivacious and most entertaining conversationalist.  His immediate family is made up of two daughters: the younger a pleasant school-girl; the elder a fragile, graceful young woman, married to one of the most promising young lawyers of San Francisco, whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The most distinctive feature of the dining-room was a great sideboard of carved black wood, in which is set a broad mirror.  Upon the face of this mirror, as on the dial of a clock, are engraved the numerals of the hours, and two slender gilded hands steal silently round, warning the reveler who chances to glance at them that no man's life is more than a question of Time, and not the wealthiest, not the most powerful of mortals, can hold one single moment in his grasp, be it never so delightful.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The works of this wonderful clock are entirely concealed, and the stately, noiseless motion of the hands across the mirror had a most weird and fascinating effect.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The dining-room opens into the billiard-room through a wide panel sliding up into the ceiling, and after passing through it we went to the music-room to spend the evening in conversation, in music--in which our host's son-in-law and his sister are proficient--and in dancing.  We were also introduced to a novel and curious musical instrument, which, being set and wound up, goes on to perform the duty of a full band of instruments.</P>
115.sgm:<P>After breakfast on Sunday morning we again went for a drive.  Taking the old San Jose&acute; post-road through the little town of Redwood, we wound among the picturesque foothills, saw lovely glimpses of sea and mountain scenery, and drove through beautiful private grounds, among others, those of the agent of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>We met with no reminder of the day during our drive; shops were open and business active in the little town, and people had neither the sedate and mortified air of a Northern Sunday, nor the festive and gorgeous aspect of that day among a purely Latin population.</P>
115.sgm:<P>At dinner we spoke much of Ralston, and Mr. Sharon, in eulogizing his singular unselfishness of life, pointed out that even this house, as well as others that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The next day we took leave of our courteous host and amiable family, and the palatial home, with its memorable history, satisfied that there is at least one palace near to the Golden Gate; and yet, as Aladdin's Princess-spouse missed the roc's egg in the palace the genii had built, we found one great and remarkable deficiency at Belmont: we did not, in all that mansion, see a book, or a bookcase, or any spot where one might fitly have been placed, or expected to be placed!</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SWEETMEAT VENDER, CHINESE THEATRE, SAN FRANCISCO.  Page 159.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>THE BROKERS' BOARD AND THE CITY PRISON.</P>
115.sgm:<P>ON Monday evenings the Palace Hotel is illuminated from top to toe, the band plays in the inner court, and the lady guests hold a reception, and dance.  The upper floor, with its glass roof, and wide balcony overlooking the court and ornamented with vases and tubs of tropical plants in full bloom, is the pleasantest in the house, and is let in suits to families taking rooms for the season.  As we have said, this mode of life is very popular in San Francisco, and all the hotels are built with reference to permanent lodgers as well as transient guests, and surely a lifetime might contentedly enough be spent in some of the apartments of which we had experience in the Palace Hotel.  Among other guests with whom we made acquaintance were the Admiral and officers of the Russian fleet, then in harbor, and we especially noticed one handsome young Baron, for whom our sympathies were strongly enlisted a few days later, by the proclamation of the Russo-Turkish war, and the necessity for his sailing with his ship, leaving his heart in the custody of a fair American, to whom he could not even give an address, since the squadron sailed under sealed orders.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We also made the acquaintance of Mrs. and Mr. C., purchasers of Follette's portrait in Beard's admirable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The next day we visited the Board of Brokers, by invitation of the President, and assisted at the throwing away, as he plaintively styled it, of some mining stocks at a rate lower than they had ever been sold at before.  We had seats in a little private gallery reserved for ladies, and from that coigne of vantage looked safely down upon the ring of brokers in the centre, with the circle of spectators outside.  The scene was one of the wildest excitement, reminding the young lady of a gladiatorial arena, the Sultana of a flock of hungry chickens, to whom some corn had been thrown, and myself of the fact that I was only a woman, and could never hope to join in such a soul-stirring combat--for surely combat is but a mild term to apply to the jostling, yelling, frenzied, purple-faced struggle, roused into new vigor at each call of a new stock; the bidders crowding to the centre, gesticulating, pushing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Not one word of all that was shrieked and shouted could we understand; but the excitement was contagious, and the writer would have given worlds to be six feet high, deepen her voice to a baritone, and be in the midst of it all!</P>
115.sgm:<P>The profound truth deduced from this visit is that a successful broker must be a tall, big man, with very long arms, and the theory was proven by a visit paid to our gallery by Mr.--, the leader of the Bears, who is formed upon this principle, and who, although as meek mannered as possible with us ladies, and bland and courteous to a degree with everybody, had impressed me as quite the typical broker, be he Bear or Bull.</P>
115.sgm:<P>From the Brokers' Board we proceeded to the County Jail.  Passing through China Town we entered a far more objectionable region, called the "Barbary Coast," inhabited by the vilest class of poor whites, as much worse than the "Heathen Chinee" as a vile woman is worse than a bad man, or any good thing gone to decay than one naturally vile.  This region is said to represent, as clearly as the iron rule of the law will permit, the social status of San Francisco in the early days, when the report of gold attracted every desperado on the Continent to its search, and scarcely one respectable woman was to be found within the city's limits.  Murder and debauchery of every sort ran riot, and it is surprising that out of such vile soil the fair flower and fruitage of the present city could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The Jailor's rooms and kitchen lie in front, and leading back from these runs a stone corridor lighted from above, whitewashed severely, and with a row of black iron doors opening at intervals through its extent; in every door appeared a little window, scarcely large enough to frame a human face, but in every window appeared two human eyes, coldly and incuriously inspecting the visitors.  No model prisoners these, cleanly, well fed, pious, industrious and sociable, such as were exhibited to us in England, but men of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Going up stairs into another corridor also lined with cells we looked down into the whitewashed stone yard of the prison.  Among the men lounging about were a good many Chinamen, squalidly dressed in shirt and trowsers, barefooted and shorn of their pigtails--the greatest punishment, short of death, that the law can inflict upon one of their nationality; one was brought in while we were there, and hurried across the yard to be clipped.  They are said to cry and shriek like little children while undergoing this penalty; and never recover the self-respect or confidence they previously had.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A straw mattrass, a tin-pan, plate and spoon constitute all the furniture of the cells, and no effort beyond <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PROPITIATING FORTUNE BEFORE SPECULATING.  Page 148.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>A DESCRIPTION of San Francisco which does not include Chinamen,THE WAYS THAT ARE DARK.</P>
115.sgm:<P>China Town, and the Chinese question in some degree, at least, would indeed be Hamlet without the Prince of Denmark's character, and Heaven defend us from committing such a solecism!  What could be seen in this direction we resolved to see, and one fine day made an experimental trip in company with a gentleman resident in San Francisco to some of the fashionable Chinese shops in the American quarter.  We called first at Chin-Lee's, then at King-Lee's and Chi-Lung's, finding their establishments filled with much the same wares that flood New York since the Exposition; but the air of the shops is more foreign than is possible in an Eastern City, the atmosphere redolent of a pungent, delicious odor of sandalwood and Oriental perfumes, and the smooth, brown, quiet salesmen, in their loose, dark-blue sacks and trowsers, with shining pigtails depending from beneath their silken skull-caps, heads and faces smooth as a baby's, and their delicate slender hands, were altogether different from the Chinese laundry-men from whom we, of the Atlantic Coast, take our ideas of the citizen of the Flowery Kingdom.  Among these merchants are the highest caste Chinese to be found in America, and their manners by no means lack the repose "that stamps the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:caste of Vere de Vere"; in fact, so reposeful are they that it is rather difficult to go shopping among them, for they only exhibit such wares as are called for, and that in a mechanical and abstracted manner, as if their minds were occupied rather with Confucius than glove-boxes, or some new astronomical discovery to the exclusion of <HI REND="italics">bric-a&grave;-brac</HI>
115.sgm:<P>From fashionable Kearney Street we turned into steep and dingy Munro Street, and were in China Town itself.  No more <HI REND="italics">bric-a&grave;-brac</HI>
115.sgm:, no more silken caps or fine cloth clothes or languid grandeur of manner.  Here all the houses are dingy, no two alike; all the people are poor, and although universally clean in person, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHINESE JOSS HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO.  Page 145.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Each little shop hangs out its sign of red and gilded paper inscribed with Chinese characters; and very little English is spoken or required, as these places are intended for native custom exclusively.  We entered several, and found the stock in each to consist mainly of shoes, tea-pots and beryl bracelets--all cheap and all ugly; and there were three or four salesmen in each dark little shop to whom the same description might be applied.  We passed along a row of butchers' stalls, and were glad to remember the impossibility of our own dinner ever coming from one of them, for the odors were horrible and the sights still more so--whole beeves and swine being hung up at the entrance and hacked to pieces almost any way, as customers applied.  Smoked birds split and flattened out like a sheet of paper were also exhibited as imported from China, and fish so long divorced from its native element as to be fit for nothing but to return thither.  We saw several Joss-houses, or temples of Chinese worship, decorated with lanterns, plenty of red and gilded paper, and scarfs and ribbons festooned across with peacock's feathers.  The upper story of the house being thus sanctified, the ground-floor is devoted to trade, and under one of the Joss-houses Hoss, Wo &amp; Co. conduct their Bureau of Emigration, and at the moment of our visit were welcoming a troop of newly arrived emigrants, who came pouring in, each bearing an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>But the mild and superficial view of China Town to be obtained at noonday by no means satisfied our determination to make its intimate acquaintance, and subsequently a formal expedition was organized under conduct of detective MacKenzie, the veteran of the San Francisco Police force, having served as detective and police-officer for twenty-two years in that and other cities.  A little after eight p.m. our party started for the Bohemian Club Rooms, where we were joined by Mr. MacKenzie and five or six other persons, and at once sallied out.  The detective gave me his arm, and as we walked down Kearney Street I tried to elicit some of the anecdotes and reminiscences with which such a man's mind must teem, but unfortunately he had so thoroughly learned that habit of discretion which must be part of a detective's training that he could not speak if he would, for I do not like to think that he would not if he could; and the only memorable thing he said in all that walk was to point out a window on the corner of Portsmouth Square and remark: "Out of that window the Vigilance Committee of '51 hung their first man."</P>
115.sgm:<P>From Portsmouth Square we turned into Dupont Street and felt that we had passed from the familiar to the unknown.  In Kearney Street, which we had just left, crowds of cheerful and busy persons with bright and expressive faces thronged the brightly lighted sidewalks and the elegant shops, or were merrily <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>We stopped at the entrance to a black and narrow alley, its depths hidden in tenebrous shadow, and here our guide produced and lighted two candles, whose gleam faintly illumined the first few steps of a black and rickety staircase.  Up this the guide led and we followed, walking purely by faith; since nothing was to be seen but the little patch of light, the dim roofs of houses beneath us, and, far above, the cold, pure gleam <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Several Chinese men coming down from the temple passed us upon the narrow stairs, and very possibly felt disposed to fling us over the light hand-rail into the narrow court below.  At the top of the stairs we passed through a door and found ourselves in a dark room, quite bare except for a shrine at the farther end and a smaller one close to the door, containing the idol guardian of the temple, a very human (Chinesely speaking) wooden gentleman, who sits all day and all night in his grotesquely carved porter's chair of a shrine, contemplating a bronze bowl of ashes and some burnt out Joss-sticks standing as tribute before him.  The larger and richer shrine at the other end of the room contains the image of Troi-Pat-Shing-Kwun, the God of Fortune, who holds a nugget of gold in his hand, and is surrounded with all sorts of tawdry trappings of artificial flowers and tinsel.  His bronze bowl of ashes is larger and the tribute of Joss-sticks more plentiful; for, like some of his white brothers, John Chinaman's most fervent prayers are offered in the hope of temporal rewards and privileges.  Several devotees were lounging in the dark corners of the room regarding us with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:usual non-committal blandness, and the walls all papered over with the gay little prayers in scarlet and gold, placed as perpetual reminders of the wishes of his worshipers before the eyes of Fortune.  In front of this shrine stood a screen carved from a solid piece of wood in all the minute elaboration we are familiar with in Chinese work of this sort.  It represented an ancient battle, and was really a very wonderful production.  Its cost in China was about one hundred and fifty dollars of our money.  From this room we passed through a maze of dark and dirty little rooms, each presided over by a God or Goddess; all wonderfully alike; all very ugly and grotesque; all surrounded by a tawdrily decorated, carved shrine, gilded, arabesqued and draped with more or less costliness and elegance, according to the importance or power of the divinity.  Before each shrine hangs a glass lantern in which a light is constantly kept, and in front of each is the bronze bowl of ashes stuck full of Joss-sticks, most of them extinct, but some slowly consuming and sending up clouds of stifling incense smoke.  In some of the rooms stood tables supporting handsome Chinese vases filled with artificial flowers, and some pieces of curious carved ivory, slips of paper, and split bamboo sticks used in divination or interpretation of the will of the deities were laid around.  Also miniature copies of the idols themselves, probably for sale, and various toys representing beasts, birds, and fishes, objects of worship or tradition in Chinese mythology.  Before each God of importance stands a table to receive the offerings of food made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>In several of the rooms we found worshipers before various shrines, but only in the case of a woman prostrate before a female deity, a sort of Chinese Lucerna, did we perceive any heartiness or absorption of manner.  The men simply approached the shrines, without troubling themselves to cease their conversation, cease smoking, or uncover their heads, thrust a Joss-stick into the bed of ashes, bow three times, slightly and quickly--which ceremony is called Chinchinning Joss, and then retire, perhaps posting up a scarlet prayer as they go.  In every room stands a tall wooden structure, like a very high four-legged stool, with a bell hanging inside of it, while above it is suspended a gong or drum, and both these are used by the priests upon occasions to arouse the attention of the meditative gods, or to awaken them from their slumber.  On hearing this explanation we could but recall the magnificent irony of Elijah as the priests of Baal raged and howled around his altar, hacking themselves with knives, and shrieking to him in vain for a manifestation of his power, and the grim prophet taunted them with: "Cry, aloud, for he is a God; either he is talking, or he is pursuing, or he is on a journey, or he is asleep!"</P>
115.sgm:<P>In the corner of one dismal little room, enshrined in a rickety wooden box, stood Shon-Ton, or the Devil, represented with a very European cast of countenance and dressed in dirty white; he is especially entreated in time of sickness, the friends of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>In one room was an adobe oven, where, at certain times, Satan is burned symbolically by means of red paper.  Across one of the little rooms extends a counter, and behind it stood two or three priests, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Making our way down the dark stairs we strolled along Dupont Street for a short distance; wherever we paused, a crowd of blue-bloused, olive-skinned pig-tailed figures gathered silently and closely about us, contemplating us with melancholy, moony faces, and rayless eyes.  At a broker's or money-lender's we stopped to look in through the window at a bright little Chinaman counting silver money in a most marvelously rapid manner.  He looked up and smiled, and we all walked in without further invitation, followed by as many of the street crowd as could enter, all beaming with delight at having us so much more under observation than in the street.  The young man informed us that he was seventeen years old, high-caste, as denoted by his long finger-nails.  A sketch was made of him by the young lady while the rest were talking, and about a dozen Chinamen gathered about her to watch its progress, and seemed highly delighted.  She gave them her sketch-book to look at, and they laughed over it, talking glibly among themselves, and expressing admiration in broken English.  Bidding the pretty lad, whose name was Lee-Yip, good-by, we made our way into the street, not without difficulty, owing to the crowd, which evidently discussed us freely, and, as we could not but suspect, in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The barbers' shops are numerous and well patronized, since it is impossible for any man to himself perform the complicated and tedious process, of which we caught glimpses now and again in the bare little basement rooms, whose only furniture consists of a bench, a chair for the patient and a washstand and bowl.  Once in that chair the applicant for "a shave" had need assume his whole stock of patience, for out of it he does not rise until every inch of skin above his shoulders, except the small portion of scalp whence the queue depends, is shaved, scraped, washed, polished, and minutely inspected.  The pigtail is unbraided, cleansed, re-oiled and re-braided; the eyes, ears and nose are manipulated; and certainly whatever may be said of his style of beauty, a Chinaman just out of his barber's hands is about as exquisitely clean, from his shoulders upward, as it is possible to imagine.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The small dimensions of the shops and their crowded condition both as to animate and inanimate stock impressed us strongly, and Mr. MacKenzie inormed us that this is due solely to the home-training of the Chinese, who, having been educated to economize every square inch of space, every handful of earth, and, as it were, the oxygen of an atmosphere inadequate to support all who are born to breathe it, find themselves more at ease in these narrow quarters than in wider ones; and the first operation of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHINESE BARBER, SAN FRANCISCO.  Page 153.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>ACT LIII., SCENE 102.  AN OPIUM DEN.</P>
115.sgm:<P>OUR next visit was to the Royal Chinese Theatre on Jackson Street.  The drama is one of the greatest luxuries of the Chinaman, who frequents it constantly when in funds; nor does this imply great wealth, since the admission fee is two bits--twenty-five cents--at the beginning, fifteen cents toward the middle, and only ten cents near the end, of the performance.  This frequently lasts six or seven hours, closing at two or three o'clock in the morning, and a single play requires three months or longer for one exhibition--an act or two being rendered each evening.  These plays are nearly all based upon ancient historical events, the conservatism of the Chinese objecting to any modern innovations, and disdaining all sensational effects.  There are no great playwrights in Chinese literature, and the profession of actor is not considered creditable, so that no great exertions toward superiority are made by those filling it.  Actresses are unknown, the female parts being filled by men coarsely painted and tawdrily dressed.  Nearly all the performance is in pantomime, and when speech is considered advisable it is uttered in a high, harsh falsetto, entirely unlike the human voice.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Entering from the street we passed through a long passage where a Chinaman behind a counter was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>When we entered, three actors were upon the stage, going through a stormy pantomime to the accompaniment of the orchestra.  The man seemed to be having a stirring scene with his wife, who was aided and abetted by her maid in a most un-Celestial domestic rebellion; finally he gave her a push, closed an imaginary door between them and stood triumphant, while she--or the man representing a she--ran up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:and down, pushed against nothing, beat the air supposed to be the door, until finally both walked calmly off and the scene ended.  The curtain at the other end of the stage was then withdrawn, and a warrior stalked forth who might as well have represented a Pawnee Brave as a Celestial hero, for his form was swathed in a mass of indescribable and very gaudy raiment, and his face painted in stripes of brilliant color.  He wore clusters of flaps at each shoulder like wings, his head was decorated with pheasant's feathers, and his beard and moustache were fearful to behold.  This champion strode across the stage, whirled round and round, stood on one leg, shook his fists, and generally expressed defiance and combativeness until some more warriors rushed in through the other doorway, apparently accepting the challenge, and these were followed by an army of women under the leadership of an Amazon, who was rather the most manly man present.  Then these grotesque and phantom-like figures began a series of the strangest evolutions, marching in and out, around each other, backward and forward, all making the same ferocious and monotonous gestures, to the accompaniment of that frightful discord of barbaric sound, until it all seemed more like a feverish dream, the fancy of a lunatic, or the vision of an opium eater than an actual stage peopled with human beings.  Each warrior as he entered threw one leg in the air and spun round upon the other; this represented the act of dismounting from his horse; and regardless of the fate of the imaginary charger he plunged at once into the battle, which finally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:culminated in the most grotesque scene possible to imagine, when ten or a dozen men, stripped to the waist and ranged in a line, turned somersaults across the stage, a row of whirling figures hurled through the air like so many balls, each one flinging himself fully six feet in air and spinning round like a wheel so fast that the eye could scarcely follow him.  Presently the battle seemed to be forgotten, or to have resolved itself into a friendly acrobatic struggle, for the warriors began to vie with each other not only in the length and rapidity of their somersaults, but they jumped over large tables, alighting on the flat of their backs with such a jar that one would expect every bone in their bodies to be broken; but every man leaped up so nimbly as to prove that no harm was done, and directly did the same thing or something as remarkable, with unabated force.  Finally the scene culminated in the performances of a half-naked man, with his nose painted of a glaring white, who did everything but turn himself inside out: he tied his legs around his neck, jumped on his elbows, stood on the crown of his head with his arms folded, and propelled himself around the stage on acute angles of his frame without the aid of either legs or arms, until there was absolutely no contortion of the muscles left for him to achieve, and then he left off!  Our party, the only Americans in the house, gave him a round of applause, at which the silent Celestials turned and grinned at us in wonder and derision, and we got up and went out.  They never applaud or disapprove anything, but sit stolidly and smoke throughout the performance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>From the theatre we were taken to visit an Opium Den, as we of the East are prone to call the <HI REND="italics">tabazies</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Passing through an alley-way, we entered a perfectly dark court where nothing was to be seen but so much to be smelled that the imagination became more painful than the reality could have been.  A light twinkled from some windows on a level with the side-walk, and our guide unceremoniously pushing open the door led us into a small, close, but apparently clean room, filled with the fumes of burning opium--resembling those of roasting ground-nuts, and not disagreeable.  A table stood in the centre, and around three sides ran a double tier of shelves and bunks, covered with matting and with round logs of wood with a space hollowed out, cushioned or bare, for pillows.  Nearly all of these were filled with Chinamen, many of them containing two, with a little tray between them, holding a lamp and a horn box filled with the black, semi-liquid opium paste. But although every one was smoking, it so early in the evening <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:that the drug had not as yet wrought its full effect, and all were wide awake, talking, laughing, and apparently enjoying themselves hugely.  The largest of the Chinamen was lying upon the shelf nearest the door, preparing his first pipe.  He looked up and nodded as we crowded around him, and then calmly continued his occupation, we watching the <HI REND="italics">modus operandi</HI>
115.sgm: with considerable interest.  The pipe was a little stone bowl, no larger than a baby's thimble, with an orifice in the bottom the size of a pin's head.  This bowl is screwed on to the side of a long bamboo stem, and the smoker, taking up a mass of the opium paste upon the end of a wire, holds it to the flame of the lamp until it is slightly hardened, and then works it into the pipe, inhaling strongly as he does so, and drawing the smoke deep into his lungs, where it remains for a moment and then is ejected through the nostrils, leaving its fatal residuum behind; for opium is an accumulative poison, and when once the system becomes saturated with it, there is no release from the misery it entails but death.  The tiny "charge" constituting one pipe-full is soon exhausted, and holding the last whiff as long as possible, the smoker prepares another, and another and yet another, as long as he can control his muscles, until, at last, the nerveless hand falls beside him, the pipe drops from his fingers, and his head falls back in heavy stupor, the face ghastly white, the eyes glazed and lifeless, the breathing stertorous, the mind wandering away in visions like those De Quincey has given to the world in the "Confessions of an Opium Eater."  Looking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:at the stalwart Chinaman, with his intelligent face and fresh, clean costume, we tried to fancy this loathsome change passing upon him and felt quite guilty, as he looked up with a twinkling smile and offering us the lighted pipe said: "Havee Smokee?" and when we declined, held out the wire with the little ball on the end for us to smell.  As we talked to this man, we were startled by perceiving two persons curled up in the bunk below his shelf, both smoking and watching us with their narrow slits of eyes like crouching wild beasts.  They did not speak, but our friend above answered all our questions in a cool, matter-of-course sort of a way, and with an amiable superciliousness of manner.  We bade him good-by and went out, his eyes following us with a look and a laugh strangely resembling a sneer.  Perhaps, carrying out the proverb <HI REND="italics">in vino veritas</HI>
115.sgm:<P>We looked into another room in the same court much smaller but better furnished, the bunks neatly fitted up with mattrasses and each containing its little tray with the lamp, pipe, and opium all ready for the smokers not yet arrived.  Our guide informed us in a mysterious tone that there are yet other opium dens to which access is impossible except to the initiated, where may be found at a later hour of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>"Not respectable Americans?" asked some one incredulously, and the detective, with a glance inscrutable as the Sphinx, replied:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"That's according to what you call respectable.  The women I don't suppose are generally received in your society, but as for the men--well, a lady would be surprised, sometimes, if she knew just how the gentleman she has danced with all the evening spends the rest of the night!"</P>
115.sgm:<P>"If Asmodeus could visit San Francisco and take us on one of his flying trips over the tops of these houses with the power of unroofing them as we passed, we should see some strange scenes," thoughtfully murmured the poet of the party, and officer MacKenzie, with one of his keen glances, replied:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"I don't know much about flying through the air, but I reckon I can show you as strange and tough a sight as you want to see, if you like to risk it, for the ladies."</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OUR "HIGH CASTE" CHINESE ACCOUNTANT.  Page 152.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>WORSE THAN DEATH.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"THIS is pretty rough," said the guide, stopping at the entrance of a dark and dismal court, whose odors seemed even more sickening and deadly than those we had breathed before; "but say the word and I will take you in."</P>
115.sgm:<P>The word was said, and stumbling up some crazy stairs we found ourselves at last in a narrow balcony overhanging the reeking court.  Some Chinese women clustered at the end of this balcony staring at us, behind them was a shrine containing the Goddess of Love, with gilt paper and Joss-sticks burning in the tray before her.  From this gallery we passed into the house and became involved in a perfect honeycomb of little rooms, dimly lighted, or not lighted at all; no doors were visible, the doorways being shaded by long, pink calico curtains, and as they blew or were drawn aside we saw every room crowded with men and a few women, smoking, drinking tea, or playing at dominoes or cards.  Every room we entered was exceedingly clean, and the inmates looked remarkably neat and tidy.  Some effort at decoration was visible in the way of gilt and red paper, bright-colored scarves and peacocks' feathers upon the walls, and pretty little Chinese tea-pots and other pottery upon the tables and shelves.  Everyone was smiling and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>In another room was a fat, good-looking woman of thirty or so, with her hair elaborately coiled, puffed and ornamented with bright gold pins, making tea at a little table set out with queer cups and saucers which excited our ceramic covetousness; the room was very small and very neat, with a bed in one corner enclosed with white curtains tied with scarves at the corners, and upon the bed a little tray holding two vases of lilacs and other common flowers, besides a lamp, pipe, and opium box; curled up beside this festive preparation lay a man who arose and welcomed us with great enthusiasm and seemed so much at home that we concluded he must be the host, and after complimenting him upon the flowers decking his opium tray, the neatness of the room and the pretty tea-service, we inquired if the woman were his wife but at this he seemed very much amused, laughed a great deal and said: "No, no, me no mally, no wife no mally at all!" and the woman seemed as much delighted as himself at the absurd mistake.</P>
115.sgm:<P>In another room we found a dozen men or more and one woman crowded around a table playing cards <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:the woman was by no means unattractive and wore beautiful earrings and had a large diamond ring, and on her fat and pretty arms bracelets which our guide said were twenty-carat-fine gold.  She showed us these ornaments with much pride, and on our admiring them paid us the Spanish compliment of saying they would better become us than herself.  When asked if they were gifts from some of these gentlemen she answered with a sudden assumption of dignity: "Me got velly good husband, me mallied woman!"  We assured her that we were delighted to hear such favorable accounts of her condition, and so passed on, peeping into a dozen or more little rooms, all crowded with men and a few women, but no babies, no little children, nothing to relieve the brazen face of the whole establishment.  The women were mostly without beauty or grace, and usually dressed in dingy blue sacks with huge sleeves, their hair drawn back and curiously puffed, coiled or plaited behind.  They all wore the mechanical smile which seems part of the national character; but their faces were thin and haggard, and the paint did not disguise the wan weariness which was eating away their lives.  These poor creatures are most of them bred to evil from infancy by parents who make merchandise of them in early girlhood.  Sometimes the wretched creature sacrifices herself, signing a contract and receiving a certain sum in advance for services during a term of years or for life; the larger part of which sum goes to the broker or intermediary.  These slaves--for they are so considered, and, as a general thing, are very harshly and penuriously <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Great discontent exists among the better class of San Franciscans at the constant importation of these slaves from China, the open and revolting traffic forming a terrible satire upon the hecatomb of the best lives of our own country sacrificed in the late war to abolish Negro Slavery!</P>
115.sgm:<P>Coming out of this house, we passed a row of tiny windows, breast-high to a man, looking out upon the narrow sidewalk of the court, at each of which appeared the face of a woman, the little room behind her as bright and attractive as she knew how to make it; one in especial was quite illuminated and decked with flowers and draperies, and the inmate, a rather pretty young girl, was singing in a sort of cooing little voice.</P>
115.sgm:<P>These unfortunates are seldom reclaimed; they feel no sense of sin or shame in their lives, and if well treated are quite content.  Occasionally the Christian Missionaries who wage an unequal and all but hopeless warfare against heathendom in San Francisco succeed in persuading one of them to escape and accept such refuge as charity provides for them; but as a general thing their masters succeed in tracing them and show willingness to expend more money and time in repossessing themselves of them than the victim can possibly be worth, and the last state of these reclaimed slaves is worse than the first.</P>
115.sgm:<P>There are said to be about fifteen hundred Chinese <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Let us close this painful subject, with a confession of its most repulsive phase.  We were informed that the most beautiful and accomplished imported Traviatas in China Town were intended for and maintained by white gentlemen exclusively.  Let us subscribe liberally to the mission to Borrioboola Gha, and send flannel waistcoats to Afghanistan, and then let us devote what is left of our money and energy and Christian zeal to the conversion of these "gentlemen," and the Hoodlum who maims and insults and robs the honest Chinese laborer!</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>POISON OAK, CAL.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>SUPPER AT A CELESTIAL RESTAURANT.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"THERE were about one hundred and fifty gambling-houses in China Town a year ago, and I suppose there are fully half as many now, and I wish I knew the precise address of one of them," remarked officer MacKenzie pensively, as we stood once more in the open street.  "When the outcry against Chinese cheap labor started up, the authorities made a raid upon all sorts of little games down here, and managed, not to cure John of gambling, for that can't be done, but to teach him to hide himself so cunningly that no one but the Father of Lies himself can find him out.  If we hear of a house and make a descent upon it, we never find anything but the sleepiest, honestest, smilingest old Chinaman, just getting out of bed and maybe offering us a cup of tea because it is such a cold night.  Every gambling-house has three street doors to pass through, and at each one sits a man with the string of a bell close at hand, and the minute there is trouble, the bells ring, the porters disappear, and the company inside scamper away like rats into their holes.  It don't pay to look'em up, and in a few months things will get back about as bad as ever!"</P>
115.sgm:<P>"What is their favorite game?" asked "our" artist with interest.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"They tell me it is a game called Tan, very much like the game of `Faro,' if you ever happened to hear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A CHINESE GOLDSMITH.  Page 169.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>"Yes, Ah-Sin played at that, played it on William and me in the game he did not understand," put in somebody else; but our guide, more realistic than poetical in his temperament, suddenly paused, and pointing to two alleys branching off at right angles from the court where we stood, informed us that one was Bull Run, and the other Murderers' Alley, so named by the Spaniards, who had given this locality a bad reputation before the Celestials dawned upon it.  Our friend had been a policeman here in those days, and said it was unsafe for any man to walk through these alleys after dark.  "And just about this spot," said he, "we used to find a man almost every morning before breakfast, served up all stark."  It made one's blood run cold to hear such things so spoken of, and then to look up between the dark rows of frowsy houses to the stars whose cold, clear, eyes had looked down upon all these scenes.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We wandered on through little alleys lighted only from the provision shops which abound, and crowded by Chinamen talking, laughing, singing, shrieking the wares they carried for sale, hung in baskets from the end of long bamboo poles, or else gathering in knots to gaze at and discuss the strangers.  Nobody seemed to think of going to bed or to sleep, although it was now very near midnight.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We went into one more shop, a gold and silversmith's, where five or six men were as busy as if at mid-day, drawing the gold out in wire, beating it into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Weary in body and mind, we accepted the suggestion of our guide, and were conducted to the best purely Chinese Restaurant in this quarter of the city, although finer ones are to be found a little out of China Town, to which the wealthy merchants are in the habit of inviting their customers and friends.  Our desire, however, was more to see the true national <HI REND="italics">cuisine</HI>
115.sgm:<P>We seated ourselves at several small tables, and were first served with tea prepared in little Chinese <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:cups with covers to them, and drank without sugar or cream, and not acceptable to a palate educated to their use; although we meekly bow to the decision of those tea-epicures of our acquaintance who insist that tea is not tea unless taken <HI REND="italics">au naturel</HI>
115.sgm:, and that Chinese tea prepared by Chinese hands, and drank from a cup with a cover to it is the only true realization of this &aelig;sthetic beverage.  The tea removed, an army of little blue Canton china plates was presented, containing squares of white cake, with a white glazing covered with red characters, olives, salted almonds, candied water-melon, little white cheeses, several sorts of dark and dubious-looking sweetmeats, and a good many unnamed and uninviting compounds of a gelatinous and saccharine nature.  We tasted the cake, the sweetmeats and some of the anonymous dishes, and found everything strange and disagreeable, having a prevailing taste of lard, and that not of the freshest.  The banquet finished by a dessert of fruit, and an orange was as refreshing as if it had not been called <HI REND="italics">channg</HI>
115.sgm:, and the grapes bore up well under the ignominy of being styled <HI REND="italics">po-tie-chee</HI>
115.sgm:, and the bananas were none the worse for the name <HI REND="italics">heong gav chew</HI>
115.sgm:<P>We finished with a course of Chinese liquor corresponding with our whisky, and which we tasted in tiny glasses and found fiery to the taste, and now as it was well on toward morning and about half the party declared themselves thoroughly worn out, the dauntless spirits who still clamored for more sight-seeing were compelled to give in, and we presently stepped from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>We did not organize another as formal visit as this to China Town, but made various little raids and exploring trips to the less objectionable portions' and heard a great deal of most conflicting testimony about the Chinese question from our acquaintances in San Francisco.  Nearly all housewives agree that Chinese servants are the best in the country--neat, quiet, apt at learning and reliable in emergencies; <HI REND="italics">per contra</HI>
115.sgm:, they are, above all flesh, deceitful, devoid of personal attachment, and suspected of cultivating the most odious vices beneath a demure and discreet exterior.  Of course, there are good and bad among Chinese servants as among all other classes of men, and the virtues of the good are patent upon the surface; unfortunately no man has penetrated sufficiently beneath his smiling and subtle exterior to tell with certainty what underlies it, and I think that, after all, my own greatest personal objection to the Chinaman is the <HI REND="italics">arrie&grave;re pense&acute;e</HI>
115.sgm: of which we were always uneasily conscious when in his society; so that on the whole one would not wish to set up a house in a lonely neighborhood with a numerous retinue of Johns.  One might take to reading the old letters from India which told at first of the skill and faithfulness of Ali, and Nana, and then of the horrors of the Sepoy rebellion, and then came no more!  In all branches of industry the Chinese workman ranks above the average.  Having once been thoroughly shown the details of any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Whether we like him or not, the Chinaman in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE INEVITABLE WINDMILL.  Page 129.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>WOODWARD'S GARDENS AND SEAL ROCKS.</P>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>WE passed a delightful morning at Woodward's Gardens, a spot so well known to every one who has visited San Francisco, talked with any one who has been, or read the book anyone having been is sure to write, that we will not minutely describe it here; merely saying that Mr. Woodward is one of those happy individuals who have had the opportunity given them of leaving the world undeniably more beautiful than they found it.  The place was originally his own private grounds; the building now serving as the museum, his own private house; and having transformed the grounds into a terrestrial Paradise, and the house into a rare collection of every sort of curiosity, he throws the whole open to the public, who, for twenty-five cents each soul, may spend the day in rambling among shady groves, verdant lawns, flowery bosquets, lakes, streams and waterfalls, conservatories, ferneries, using the swings, the trapezes, the merry-go-rounds at will, or listening to the fine music and witnessing the theatrical displays often given in the great arena surrounded with seats, which is also used for dancing, parlor-skating and acrobatic performances.  Connected with this is an excellent refreshment-room, whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Such a garden as this is only possible where frost is unknown, and the Summer's growth is never nipped by Winter's snows.  Why does not human nature carry out the rule of inanimate nature, and why are the persons who have never known a sorrow, or a want, or a cloud upon their day, by no means the sweetest, the fairest or most perfect?</P>
115.sgm:<P>An underground passage leads from the gardens proper to the Zoological Gardens, so called, and here is a fine collection of wild animals; the ferocious ones as languid and disgusted of mien as wild beasts in iron cages always are; the beautiful ones more beautiful than we often see them, because they are at liberty, within their fenced paddocks; and one gets a better idea of an ostrich in seeing him upon a sunny hillside, even with a fence in the perspective, than in a cage six feet square with his beautiful plumes as broken and worn as an old feather duster; and the deer in their park are as free and graceful as in their native wilds.  The most amusing feature of all was the bear-pit; tall poles were erected in the middle with little platforms on top that Bruin might pretend to himself that he was climbing a tree and resting in the branches.  We were presented to an infant black bear aged three months, a perfect darling, with innocent blue eyes, and the sweetest little fat palms to his feet, and as full of fun and harmless antics as a kitten.  In a cool grotto was an admirable salt-water aquarium supplied constantly from the Pacific Ocean, and fitted up with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Quite tired out with walking, standing, looking, laughing and admiring, we returned to the hotel and found a vase of roses awaiting us with the card of a lady resident in the house; the roses were the largest I had ever seen, even in Lima, Peru--too large, indeed, for beauty, and only curious as mammoths.  In the evening we returned the call, and found Mrs. S-- a most charming and individual person.  She rarely leaves her apartments, being extremely stout, yet with the smallest feet and hands imaginable, but she has broght the world to herself; her wonderful conversational ability, sunshiny nature, and rare literary attainments making her drawing-room the centre of one of the brightest circles, intellectually, in San Francisco, and reminding one of the traditions of Madame Re&acute;camier and the galaxy of wits and savants that gathered around her.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Beside these living ornaments, Mrs. S-- has been able to make a collection of pictures, books, carvings <HI REND="italics">objets d'art</HI>
115.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">bric-a&grave;-brac</HI>
115.sgm: fit to drive a rival collector mad.  Among other items in the latter direction, one may mention three hundred tea-pots, each named after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:a friend, and the tiny ones after baby friends.  A Japanese puppy, precisely like the little monsters one is familiar with in pottery, should, as he was alive, occupy a third place between the coterie of friends and the coterie of tea-pots and <HI REND="italics">bric-a&grave;-brac</HI>
115.sgm:, although he was so excessively ugly as to be perhaps more charming than either.  Mrs. S--, besides being <HI REND="italics">au fait</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The next morning we drove out to the Cliff House, the most popular resort of the pleasure-seeker in this city.  We started in the fog nearly inevitable, at this season, every morning, but warranted to clear by nine o'clock.  This especial morning the warrant failed, but unlike gloves and boots, the day could not be returned to its manufacturer, or exchanged for a better one, so we made the best of it and took it out in grumbling and seal-skin sacks.  The drive through the suburbs is not especially attractive until one enters Golden Gate Park, the principal driving-ground of San Francisco, and destined, like many other things in this wonderful city, to become by-and-by one of the finest, not only of America but the world.  Just at present, however, things are in a rather rudimentary state, the four years of its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CLIFF HOUSE.  Page 179.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>The Cliff House perches on a steep, rocky eminence, sweeping up abruptly from the beach, so that its piazza literally overhangs the surf.  A few hundred yards from the shore rise the picturesque mass of broken crag known as the Seal Rocks, and the long swell of the Pacific meeting this obstacle, breaks from its majestic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The ocean was of a dull green that day, the sky gray, the wind blowing a gale and wildly scattering the feathers of the sea fowl who fled before it; far to the left stretched the sandy beach with the soft fog drifting down upon it, while to the right the steep and jagged cliffs cut sharply against the sky; from their summit we could have looked across the Golden Gate and the lovely bay to Part Point, with its lighthouse, but we did not do it, sitting instead upon the piazza to watch the sea-lions or seals which swarm upon the rocks bearing their name, playing, eating, fighting, barking, and filling the air with shrill cries and deep roars which mingle in discordant music with the dash and tumult of the surf.  Every age, size and description of seal is here represented, from the soft baby of a few weeks old, to the barnacled and clumsy patriarch, turning the scale at three thousand pounds, and rolling hither and thither in majestic disregard of the small fry, who scuttle out of his path to avoid annihilation.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The biggest, ugliest and most belligerent of the seals is called General Butler, and he evidently is not considered an agreeable or safe neighbor, for every one else gave place to him with a haste more of fear than of reverence.</P>
115.sgm:<P>After breakfast--a most elaborate, prolonged, and admirably cooked and served meal--several of us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SEAL ROCKS, HARBOR OF SAN FRANCISCO.  Page 180.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>On the drive home we passed Lone Mountain, a solitary peak upon whose summit stands a gigantic cross--mute memorial of the Spanish Fathers who worshiped and buried their dead in its shadow.  The hills around its base are covered with gleaming stones, and the Romanists, the Protestants and the Chinese have their cemeteries here.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The sun came out during the return drive, and by the time we reached home, about two o'clock, it was overpoweringly hot and we were glad to shelter in the house.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>THE TIES OF CALIFORNIAN BUSINESS PARTNERSHIPS.</P>
115.sgm:<P>WE received a pleasant call from Mr. Bryant, the Mayor of San Francisco, a most genial gentleman, with the frankest and most honest of blue eyes, and a mouth and teeth just formed for gracious and contagious mirth.  His manner especially pleased us, as lacking that reserve and <HI REND="italics">arrie&grave;re pense&acute;e</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Mr. Bryant is a New Hampshire man by birth, and came here twenty-seven years ago with a schoolmate, his partner.  There is something very touching in this peculiar relationship which formed so marked a feature of early Californian life, and lasts down to to-day.  A man's "partner" here is not simply his business ally and perhaps personal enemy, but, following out the picturesque and chivalrous scheme of life that was the first outgrowth of Californian society, these partnerships were a reproduction of the sworn brotherhoods among the Knights of the heroic age, or of the similar tie so common with German students of to-day; the partner is more than friend, more than a brother, he is an <HI REND="italics">alter ego</HI>
115.sgm:, whose interests, wishes, pleasures <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The mayor had brought his horses, and presently took us out to see something more of the city than we had yet beheld.  We went first to the new City Hall, which will not be finished for about three years more.  It is of brick, and cement, plastered outside--San Francisco architecture eschews stone, finding brick and cement with iron beams and cross-ties and iron pillars running from floor to roof more nearly fire and earthquake proof.  They claim that this City Hall will outlast any public building in the country, and will be the strongest and most perfect of any structure of the kind ever erected.  The Hall of Records is quite separate from the main building, circular in shape and finished with a beautiful dome; two galleries run around the interior, and the floor is of Georgia pine and black walnut, with a very handsome marble centre-piece.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We went on the workmen's elevator to the roof of the main building and saw tantalizing glimpses of a magnificent view partially hidden by the Summer fog, which, as usual, rested soft and gray and fleecy upon the Bay and crept up over the foothills--Goat Island <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>From the City Hall we drove up the steep hill-streets to look at some of the handsome residences on the cliffs.  Many of them are perfect palaces, generally built of wood, and ornate to excess.  Ralston's city house is a huge caravanseri absolutely without beauty or ornament, the grounds a mere waste of weeds and rubbish.  Most of these places, indeed, fall short in the matter of grounds, everything looking crude and unfinished to Eastern eyes.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Two fine houses are in process of building by Mr. Hopkins and Mr. Crocker.  On the estate of the latter gentleman stood a small cottage which he wished to purchase and take down, but the owner refused to sell under some fabulous price, and Mr. Crocker, declining to be imposed upon to this extent, has instead built a high frame wall around three sides of the cottage, completely shutting it out from his view and also from viewing.  The proprietor threatens to erect a Chinese laundry on the roof of his house, by way of revenge!</P>
115.sgm:<P>We called upon Mrs. Bryant, and after lunch took a Market Street car for the Mission Dolores--the nestegg, so to speak, of San Francisco.  It was built in 1776 by the Jesuits, but the original adobe building has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>In the evening, by way of severe contrast, we went to Baldwin's Theatre, attached to the hotel of the same name and just finished.  It is really the prettiest to be seen in any part of the world--a perfect little gem, fitted up like a <HI REND="italics">bonbonnie&grave;re</HI>
115.sgm: in crimson satin and gold.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Next morning we went up Clay Hill, on the Elevated Railway, the cars being dragged up the steep ascent by wire cables beneath the wooden track.  There is a little engine in the middle and seats around the four sides where you sit and dangle your feet into space; the grade is 376 feet, and one wonders how the inhabitants ever went up and down before the railway was laid.  We came home through China Town, never missing an opportunity of visiting it, and saw a woman sitting in a doorway dressed in white trowsers and a pea-green sacque, and a man leading along a little mite of a girl gotten up in a pink silk sacque and trowsers, silver bracelets on her wrists and ankles, and her hair dressed in two flat round whirls at the back, stuck full of artificial flowers.  We ventured into a tenement-house, its corridors and stairs filthy and odorous, but its many rooms and more inmates neat and well kept, and the former almost invariably decorated with flowers and globes of gold-fish.  These people enjoy inconvenience and prefer to exist five or six together in one little room, men, women and children, cooking, eating, sleeping, and living generally in a space rather scanty for one Englishman or American.  Yet all seem happy and content, and all smile upon us persistently and blandly.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>SAN RAFAEL AND MR. COLEMAN'S GROUNDS.</P>
115.sgm:<P>ONE lovely Sunday morning, following the fashion of the Romans among whom we found ourselves, we started at eight o'clock to pass the day at San Rafael with Mr. Coleman.  Going on one of the comfortable boats of the Oaklands and Alameda Ferry Company we found ourselves in the midst of a festive throng of pleasure-seekers who, accompanied by a brass band, were bound for the picnic grounds of San Rafael, one of the most popular resorts for that class of San Franciscans who look upon Sunday as a day of wholesome recreation and rest.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The sail, northerly up the Bay, is one of the most charming imaginable, crossing the channel of the Golden Gate and passing close by Alcatraz with its green breast-works and red roofed forts, then winding between the coast range on the east, and on the West the Mission Hills, Saucelito and Raccoon Straits, while northward lies the great dark peak of Tamalpais, seamed from top to base by a white sand slide where a "cloud-burst struck" some years ago.  The soft, bright haze only made the landscape lovelier in a rosy-purple light, and the water was green as emerald and dappled with flashing white caps; presently the sun came out, the sky grew blue and deep, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>We disembarked at Point San Quentin and found the narrow gauge train of cars for San Rafael awaiting us.  Besides the usual carriages we noticed a series of picnic cars consisting merely of platforms quite close to the ground and furnished with bare benches.  A passage of twenty minutes or so along the shores of the Bay brought us to to the pretty village of San Rafael, nestling at the foot of a great conical hill, half covered with wood.  Mr. Coleman's carriage awaited us, and the four admirable horses whirled us away, Elijah-like, in a cloud of dust to the hills above the town.  Nothing can be lovelier than the position of San Rafael, the beautiful Bay at its feet and great Tamalpais sheltering it from the cold winds that sweep in through the Golden Gate.  The valley runs back from the coast between swelling ranks of hills covered with verdure, for in the warm, still air and sweet sunshine, every form of vegetation revels and luxuriates.  We drove along the old post-road running twenty miles inland to Petaluma, passed the old Mission House now converted into the Court House of Marion County, and the Mission gardens and orchards still luxuriant with flowers and fruits planted by the dead and gone old monks, and so, through hilly by-roads and glimpses of lovely scenery to Mr. Coleman's great nursery gardens, where we left the carriage and walked about to pick flowers, taste of fruits and enjoy ourselves <HI REND="italics">a&grave; la</HI>
115.sgm: Adam and Eve in Paradise <HI REND="italics">sans</HI>
115.sgm: the serpent.  In the garden, roses were running wild in all directions, the blossoms <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:as large as great peonies--deep yellow, pale buff, the darkest crimson, pure white and lovely pink; honeysuckles, geraniums, verbenas, pansies, California everlastings, every blossom fit for a flower-show, and crowding each other in a mad luxuriance of bloom which made it a charity to pluck as many as possible; besides these, were wildernesses of trees all in flower or fruit, acacias, varieties of eucalyptus, guavas, blue and red gum trees, rhododendrons, and tulip trees, locusts and magnolias.  A little wearied at last, we, accompanied by Mr. Coleman, returned to the carriage, and continued our drive through roads scarcely more than projected as yet, some of them no more than mere trails among the grass and wild flowers.  Mr. Coleman owns the whole of the San Rafael valley, about forty-five thousand acres of wild land, and he is diligently employed in planting it with trees from his nurseries and laying out roads commanding the loveliest views.  He expects by-and-by to sell portions of the grounds as building lots, and the whole region will become one continuous garden.  Always, as we wound in and out among the hills and paused for a fresh aspect of the charming view we found Tamalpais in the middle distance, as distinctive a feature as Vesuvius of all Neapolitan scenery, and Mr. Coleman averred that, owing to its protecting influence, the climate of San Rafael is quite different from that of the coast towns--softer, more equable, and having a larger rain and dew-fall.  Nature is so spontaneous and lavish here that she leaves but little for man to do; on all his vast estate Mr. Coleman employs but eleven men as nurserymen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The sail down the Bay was as lovely as that of the morning until, in the purple light of early evening, we passed the Golden Gate and saw San Francisco, sleeping upon her seven hills; Lone Mountain, with its great cross towering to the sky; Telegraph Hill, overhanging the bay, and the sunset glow making one great opal of the quiet sea.  A little later we reached the Palace Hotel, made our rooms beautiful with the wealth of flowers Mr. Coleman had lavished upon us, dressed for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The next day we dined at Ex-Governor Stanford's, who has the most magnificent house on this Continent; it covers an entire block and its appointments are simply palatial.  One drawing-room is furnished in Pompeian style from designs which were the joint work of its tasteful mistress and her friend Miss Hosmer, the sculptress of whom America is so proud.  The dining-room is as superb as it is spacious, and nothing that taste could suggest or wealth provide is here wanting, while the sleeping and dressing rooms are as luxurious as they are dainty and magnificent, and the picture gallery is a worthy home for its choice paintings and statuary, where all of our native as well as foreign artists of distinction are worthily and characteristically represented.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The dinner was superb, the thirty guests well-selected and harmonized, the hostess a tall, stately woman, with regal manners fitly borne out by her costume of crimson velvet softened with rare old lace and embellished by a magnificent <HI REND="italics">parure</HI>
115.sgm: of diamonds and glowing opals.  Her unmarried sister, who aided her in doing the honors, is a charming lady, both genial and courtly of manner; but the pet of the house is a splendid boy some ten years of age, the only child of the parents, who waited nineteen years for his arrival.  The little fellow was presented after dinner and charmed us by his pretty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Next morning, after breakfast, we were invited by Mr. Baldwin, whose unique theatre we had visited, to go over the hotel connected with it and likewise bearing his name.  It is not quite complete as yet as to furniture, but has been opened for visitors for a couple of months and is a most admirable house.  We viewed the offices and were shown the improvements, such as the revolving post office with boxes arranged in a cylinder; the chronometer which regulates the sixty clocks of the hotel, timing them all to a second; an apparatus for gauging the heat of each apartment or suite; another for reporting the movements of the bellboys; passenger elevators, and one for sending up parcels to each floor; each department provided with an office and set of boys independent of the rest.  Each department has also its individual fire apparatus, and a well runs the height of the building, having a small window at each floor, and behind it a coil of hose connecting with the tank, so that at the most sudden alarm of fire any one can rush and turn on a stream of water.  On the lower floor is a waiting-room, a reading-room, a barber's shop and a fine billiard-room for gentlemen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The theatre connects with the hotel, and two minutes before each act the prompter touches a bell ringing in the bar, so that thirsty souls may appease the pangs of drought with no danger of losing any part of the play.  Altogether, we must confess that Mr. Baldwin's hotel, like his theatre, is quite the model building of its class in this our model country.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>THE ROSES OF SANTA ROSA.</P>
115.sgm:<P>RISING at six one fine morning we ate such breakfast as was possible at that crude hour, and embarked for the first stage of our journey to the Geysers.  The sail up the bay was a repetition of Sunday's experience, and at Donohue Landing we took the train for Cloverdale, and were soon flying through the loveliest country imaginable--a perfect Arcadia.  The land was level and an almost unbroken mass of verdure and bloom, field after field of wild grain, which in California holds the place of grass with us, with great wide-armed trees brooding over it, live and white oaks, garlanded with gray moss, laurels and chestnut trees; here and there were tracts of wild poppies, great solid sheets of golden bloom without a blade of green, flaming in the sunshine until the eye was dazzled with their glory, broad patches of blue and purple and orange flowers of names unknown, and, darting over and among them, whole flocks of birds with colors as vivid as the flowers--blue-jays, blackbirds with scarlet epaulets, burnished blue-black magpies, and quails with oddly plumed heads, sitting fearlessly upon the fences.  Here and there were great herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, but happily very few signs beside of the occupancy or dominion of man.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>At Santa Rosa we left the train for a little exploration, and found the Mayor and some of the dignitaries of the place awaiting us with hospitable and courteous intent, and three vehicles in readiness to carry us around the town, which certainly is well worth the seeing.  Santa Rosa is named in honor of the first and we believe only American saint in the Romish calendar.  She was an inhabitant of Lima, in Peru, a charming girl, endowed with numberless graces of body and soul, and enthusiastically given to practices of religion, sighing in her fervent devotion for the palm of martyrdom, even of the most terrible nature.  After her death, the Pope then occupying St. Peter's chair was requested to canonize her, but refused to do so, expressing the greatest incredulity at the notion of a holy virgin having lived and died in Lima, of all places.  Urged yet farther, he exclaimed, "Yes, when roses fall from out the skies upon my head, I will believe that this Rosa was all that you claim, and will surely canonize her!"</P>
115.sgm:<P>No sooner had the words passed the lips of the holy father--you will not doubt the legend surely--than a heavenly perfume filled the apartment and a shower of the fairest and sweetest roses fell upon his head and hands, and slid meekly to his feet.  Astonished and humiliated, the Pope hastened to fulfil his pledge, canonized the fair Limen&tilde;a without delay, and named her Patron Saint of her native America.  Churches and convents have been called in her honor, and in one of the finest of these latter at Lima her remains are religiously preserved.  No doubt it is in consequence of her fostering care, but surely roses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>In one garden was a giant rose-bush twenty-five feet high, with a sturdy trunk like a tree, and the top one snowy globe of blossoms.  In another garden we saw an evergreen, up which a climbing white rose had made its way and thrust forth sprays of creamy roses from among the dark foliage with a wonderfully pretty effect.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Mayor was a jolly sort of personage, with an uproarious laugh and a thoroughly hearty manner, who addressed the Chief simply as "Colonel," and invited us all into the bar-room for a treat of beer.  The editor of the <HI REND="italics">Sonoma Democrat</HI>
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115.sgm:<P>The Sonoma red-wood grove is near Santa Rosa, and the Mayor and his party proposed escorting us thither.  Upon the way back to the station we craved and obtained from Mr. Thompson a few statistical items, such as that the population of Santa Rosa has within five years advanced from one thousand to six thousand, and that she possesses five churches, and two colleges, one under the Methodist, the other under Campbell-Baptist patronage.</P>
115.sgm:<P>From Santa Rosa we passed through the rich and lovely scenery of the Sonoma Valley into a region where the track began to wind and curve between steep hillsides black with huge pines and cedars, crossing and recrossing the little deep-green stream of the Russian River.  We were in the red-wood country, and the trees began to shoot higher towards heaven tall, dark trunks, straight as masts, and beginning to throw out branches at about the height common trees leave off altogether; here and there were patches of blackened giant stumps, and here and there lumber yards, until of a sudden the trees seemed to crowd down and close across our path, the train stopped, and we dismounted in the heart of the Sonoma red-wood forest.  Those who knew told us to restrain our superlatives of wonder and admiration until we saw the really "big trees" of Calaveras and Mariposa, the world-famous Sequois; but after all, size is not the only measure of beauty, or astonishment the highest proof of delight, and many of us enjoyed more in wandering through the cool dark depths of this grove, looking up to the rustling roof of foliage so far above our heads that we could scarce distinguish the leaves, and listening to the roar of the wind <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The rest of the journey was pleasant, but uneventful, and we reached Cloverdale in time for dinner in the big, bare dining-room of the pleasant inn.  These country inns of California were quite charming--more like those one finds in the heart of rural England than those to be seen elsewhere in America--long, low, two-storied houses, with plenty of cosy little rooms, clean and homely, but, unlike England, with no arrangements for fire, and with a long, wide piazza across the front.  We saw nothing of quiet little Cloverdale except the inn, and after dinner found the stage awaiting us--a great open vehicle with five scats, capable of accommodating three persons on each--and a big black-bearded driver.  We started at once; and much as we had previously enjoyed California scenery, this afternoon's experience was the climax.  The air was warm and peculiarly sweet, the slanting lights exquisite, the shadows artistic, and the rapid Russian River, which we waded twice, with the water up to our horses' girths, full of life and <HI REND="italics">verve</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Presently we struck into Sulphur Creek Can&tilde;on, a wild and wonderful mountain gorge, where the road is hewn out of the face of a precipice, with a sheer descent of three or four hundred feet between it and the river-bed below, and a wall of rock above, crowned with a fringe of dark-green trees.  The road is safe, no doubt, but there is not a foot of ground to spare between the wheel-tracks and the unguarded edge, and as it winds and doubles around a series of capes and promontories, succeeding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>This gentleman was not a conversational person, and, it is to be feared, was something of a misogynist.  At any rate, he expressed great contempt for the terror of the ladies, and sneered cruelly at our desire to see a grizzly bear, which amiable creature is still occasionally to be met with in this vicinity.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"I'd like to see you hold them horses if a grizzly showed his snout.  I couldn't do it," remarked he, and then in a burst of confidence went on to say that this road had been opened only a few years, and that he drove "the first wheel" that ever passed over it.  We longed to inquire if this wheel was attached to a wheelbarrow, but refrained, and found ourselves rewarded by the farther information that our friend had been "staging it" for twenty-five years without a single accident; that he was both owner and driver of this entire line, consisting of five coaches and twenty horses, and that his net profits at the end of the year were just about enough to keep him in clothes.</P>
115.sgm:<P>"I go stagin' for glory, I do," remarked he, and then evidently feeling that he had sufficiently sacrificed to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The white oaks, too, were very attractive with their broad, low crests, the gray Spanish moss flaunting like banners from their sturdy arms, mixed with great knots of mistletoe, enough to furnish forth a whole college of Druids, or all England's Christmas festivities.  The birds flitted in and out of this dark foliage, bright as winged flowers, and about sunset gave us a grand vesper chorus, at sound of which the gay little lizards, gray, and brown, and bright blue, slid out of sight beneath the stones; the shadows stole from the depths of the pine trees, and crowded down to fill the depths of the can&tilde;on, and Nature was so obviously preparing for her night's rest that we were quite relieved when, at a sudden turn of the road, we came in sight of the Geysers, whose steamy vapor gleamed purple in the sunset light.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We passed an abandoned quicksilver mine, gaping and desolate, with its ruined roofless buildings, and just as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Herself and husband had been at the Geysers earlier in the season, and were pleased with the quaint little mountain inn, and they had returned to pass another week there.  The bride seemed happy and cheerful, and had lost nothing, in her newly-acquired matronly dignity, of the genial grace of manner which had made her, as Miss R--, so many friends in her widely-extended circle.  The handsome young husband, with his thoroughbred, rather English air, seemed born to the millions which had come to him by kind fortune and with his amiable and accomplished wife, and we passed a pleasant hour chatting of mutual friends and acquaintances, of our own city, and of others that both parties had recently visited, of the bridal party's abandoned trip to China and approaching European tour, until we parted for the night with a cordial grasp of the hand, mutual good wishes, and, on our side at least, with a fervent and heartfelt prayer for future happiness and prosperity among the chances and changes of this most uncertain life.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A little later we all enjoyed an entertainment certainly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The little inn was full of guests, and probably no two of them failed of some remark upon the new arrivals.  The rival claims to beauty of the various ladies of the party--for our ranks had been recruited by a lovely widowed friend from California--their toilets, manners, and identity were all freely discussed, and the two married gentlemen of our company had the satisfaction of hearing their wives freely bestowed upon each other or upon the bachelors, while the charming widow was made a wife once more, and one of the wives set down as a widow, the maiden married, and a general new distribution of the party effected with the most charming celerity and certainty.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We must confess, however, that nothing malicious or slanderous was heard, and when the subject in the adjoining rooms turned from ourselves to the personal affairs of the gossipers, the rap of a brush-handle upon the door secured silence and the possibility of slumber.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>THE GEYSERS AND FOSSE OF FOSSEVILLE.</P>
115.sgm:<P>IT is proper to begin a day at the Geysers by visiting the baths, of which there is quite a variety.  Passing down the canon opposite the house, and keeping along the bed of a stream, one arrives at a little rustic bridge, and crossing it to the bath-houses, takes one's choice between hot sulphurous water, dense steam--also sulphurous--and a cold plunge in the river.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The odors of the sulphur baths were odious, but the waters felt pleasant, and left a delightful sensation upon the skin.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Coming out of the houses we wandered a little farther up the can&tilde;on and seated ourselves upon the dry, crumbling soil, through which jets of vapor were spouting here and there, some close beside the river, as if its clear, cold waters had been subterraneously boiled and were throwing off steam.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Geysers are seen to greater advantage at early morning than later in the day, as the vapor condenses more in the chill hour before sunrise than afterward, and we sat for awhile content to watch the Afrit-like shapes of the columns of steam rising and forming, and then dissolving in endless succession, while the level rays of the rising sun touched first the crest of the rocky walls of the can&tilde;on, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>But even the sunlight and the morning could not alter the general mournful, uncanny, blasted look of nature in all this region, the soil, apparently of crumbled pumice stone, is ghastly in its pale-gray color, unenlivened by verdure or the tender brown of arable earth; the river moaned and murmured as if those subterranean fires were scorching its life-springs, and clouds of vapor assumed more and more fantastic shapes.</P>
115.sgm:<P>After breakfast we set forth for the regular tour of the Geysers, crossing the stream at the foot of the can&tilde;on, and winding a little trail into another gorge, wild and steep, and gradually bringing us into the region of purely mineral and chemical life, with little trace of vegetable or animal existence.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The soil, after passing a landmark called the Devil's Arm-Chair, and the Magnesia Spring, is a mere crust of crystallizations of sulphur and lime, beds of cinnabar, like wet red paint, green incrustations of copper, and brilliant yellow patches of brimstone, everything wet with the oosing mineral waters, and scalding hot to the touch, the air dense with horrible fumes and clouds of hot steam puffing up into one's face, jets of boiling water spirting under one's feet, and black, bubbling pools lying ready to entrap the unwary; the loose and friable soil crumbles beneath the tread, and seems to breathe heat, so that one feels as if walking over an endless series of registers, with a seventimes heated furnace underneath.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE WITCHES' CAULDRON, CAL. Page 205.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Few mortal experiences can give so vivid an idea of the infernal regions, and were I a great reformer of the Calvinistic school, I would simply engage Mr. Cook to take all my converts to this valley, upon a gigantic excursion, sure that it would do more to frighten them from evil courses than any amount of preaching.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Witches Cauldron, black as ink, leaping, bubbling, and hissing, is all but hidden in the dense clouds of vapor, so that one only sees it through the rifts, and may fancy it limitless in extent, and peopled with the spirits of the damned; there is a continual rumbling and roaring in the bowels of the earth, which suggests the pleasing idea of an earthquake possible at any moment.  The utter absence of vegetation and of animal life adds a certain horror to the scene, suggesting a world in process of extinction, where man, the latest and highest form of creation, is also to be the last to perish.</P>
115.sgm:<P>This gorge is appropriately called the Devil's Can&tilde;on, and the heat, and the steam, and the sounds, and the smells, and the vague horror of the whole intensified, until we reached the Devil's Pulpit, a huge crag, closing the valley and commanding its whole sweep, the pools in the bottom round which our path had skirted, and the steep bare sides, patched all yellow and scarlet, and ashy white, with hundreds of jets of steam and smoke bursting out in every direction.  Such a picture must have been in John Bunyan's mind when he described Christian's journey through the Valley of the Shadow of Death, and we were fain to fancy the dark evergreen forests of Sulphur Can&tilde;on, which closed the distant view, as representing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Perhaps the gray-headed and learned looking man, in a linen duster, whom we found wandering in the Valley, was the Interpreter.  At any rate, he joined himself to our party in a friendly manner, and informed us with the voice of authority, that the phenomena of this spot was occasioned by the action of various chemical agencies meeting and conflicting just beneath the surface of the ground.  Our guide, however, not a bit like Great-Heart, by the way, pooh-poohed this theory with great scorn, insisting that the region was volcanic, and the commotion we witnessed was but a feeble exponent of much more terrible disturbances deep down below our feet.  In fact, the <HI REND="italics">savant</HI>
115.sgm:<P>In support of his side of the question, the guide presently led us past the Devil's Pulpit, through a pretty little path suddenly blossoming out of the waste, to the crater of what he declared to be an extinct volcano.  It was a great circular depression in the earth, its surface dry and baked with patches of mineral deposit, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Especially, we noticed some lovely needle-like crystals of sulphur, so delicate that they crumbled at a touch, and altogether could well believe that in some unremembered age, this mournful basin was filled with boiling lava, and sent forth its desolating streams to fill the valley beyond.  The little track wound on in a gentle curve, passing a great white oak bent nearly to the ground, with a hole in the side where visitors are in the habit of thrusting their cards for the benefit of acquaintances who may chance to come after.  Some grass and bushes timidly appear here and there, but the path presently curves away from them, and sweeps into the region of Geysers again.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Indians' vapor bath is a deep cave in the side of a hill, filled with scalding hot steam, which rises and hangs around the entrance in a dense cloud; the Indians used to resort here yearly for this bath until within a brief period, but now come no more.  Near by is a safety valve through which the hot air puffs in regular blasts with a hoarse roaring sound, and such force as to eject pebbles thrown into the opening some three or four feet into the air.</P>
115.sgm:<P>As we passed we saw a picturesque group of hunters on horseback and on foot, slowly climbing the steep foot-hill beyond, with dogs and a pack-mule following, and were told that game is various and abundant in this region, ranging from grizzly bears to woodcock.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The trail wound around the steep sweep of the hills a little farther, and then down to the little stream at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The stage was to convey us to Fosseville and Calistoga, where we were to take the cars again for the home trip, travellers generally preferring to go by the Cloverdale and return by the Calistoga road, instead of retracing their steps.  We had been assured that this part of the route would prove far more terrific than that we had passed on the previous day, and had braced ourselves to a pitch of unshrinking and unshrieking courage quite beautiful to contemplate, but altogether wasted as the event proved, for the road was, if anything, a little less dangerous, and the scenery even more beautiful than that previously passed.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Both road and scenery presented the same general features, a deep can&tilde;on with the road cut in the side of one of the ranges enclosing it; the same curving and doubling and serpentine festooning around head-lands, and capes of rock rising hundreds of feet above our heads, and falling hundreds of feet below to the sombre depths of the gorge, and the all-but inaudible river far beneath.  To-day, however, the can&tilde;on was wider and the scene more extended; at almost the highest point we passed a little cabin perched like an eyrie above the world, and commanding a view of the whole Sonoma Valley, a great green trench, with no track through it except this one clinging to the side of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Beginning to descend, we passed over the Dog's Back, which some one has described as a most awful and perilous pass, but to us it seemed no worse and no different from several similar points of the route; the precipices above and below were steep and the road not the one we should select to train a frisky four-in-hand team upon, but it was wide enough for our safe passage, and the curve not nearly so sharp as some around which we had jauntily swung.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The view from this point was sublime, but although a succession of slightly varying views bring with themselves a sufficient difference of charm to sustain the interest for days and days, the English language contains but twenty-six letters, and no very varied vocabulary of adjectives, so that we spare all farther description of the fringy mountain lilacs beside the road, and the great splendid Madrona trees ablaze in the sunshine, and simply say that descending precipitously from the heights whereon we had dwelt for two days, we came into a green and level region, and by stopped at a little wayside station consisting of half a dozen houses hidden in a grove of pine trees.</P>
115.sgm:<P>This was Pine Flat, of poetic celebrity, but now falling to decay, the population having within two years dwindled from six thousand to fifteen souls, its present census.  The abandonment of the quicksilver mines in the vicinity is the cause of this exodus, and the only present industry of Pine Flat is the collection of minerals and crystals which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>From Pine Flat we drove through a pleasant uninteresting country of several miles, and finally arrived at Fosseville and drew up before the castle of Fosse himself; it was a charming white house with a huge white-oak before the door, and quantities of flowers both inside and outside of a huge garden.  The great Fosse came forward to meet us, or rather to upbraid and reprove us, for it seems we had been expected to dine and perhaps pass the night, and a banquet had been prepared and spoiled by waiting; furthermore, Fosse himself had driven out six-in-hand to meet us, and coming home disappointed had solaced himself with whiskey to an extent not increasing his natural amiability.  He is a great, burly fellow, a native of New Hampshire, and so long accustomed to autocracy in this region, as to bitterly resent such disregard of his plans and efforts, as we unwittingly had shown.  He accordingly received us very gruffly, and evidently had resolved to make us feel the penalty of his displeasure.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We were shown to the charmingly neat rooms prepared for us by his amiable, pretty, young wife, and spent half an hour in removing so much as was possible of the coating of red dust, in which we were encased like mummies in asphaltum.  Descending, we found Fosse himself seated upon the driver's seat of the wagon prepared to take us to Calistoga, but no sooner had we started, than it became apparent that his ill-humor had only increased by expression, and had reached a pitch beyond the power of the softest words to turn away--even the Sultana's eloquence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The word was said, the six horses wheeled as if on a pivot, and we tore back again, having been absent from the house about ten minutes, and traversed about three miles.  A supper was served which did ample justice to the landlord's grumbling complaints as to the trouble and expense of the wasted dinner, and while it was preparing we walked in the pretty garden, and down a planked path to a little cottage buried in roses and white blossomed vines; it is let to lodgers and is quite the ideal nest in which a pair of newly-wedded doves might pass their honey-moon.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Our lovely young widow decked herself in roses and made her travelling dress fit for a ball-room, but she herself was still the freshest and sweetest rose of all, as both eyes and whispers told her.  After supper a roaring wood-fire, and a new upright piano and the widow's sympathetic voice made the little parlor charming, and we passed a happy although short evening, for every one was weary, and at an early hour sought the sweet, fresh bedrooms where rest and sleep awaited them.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Breakfast was as good as the supper had been, and at last with lightened consciences and somewhat lightened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The four-hours journey by rail from this place is through the Napa Valley, a lovely cultivated country, with miles of vineyards, where the vines look like a bouquet of leaves tied to a sturdy stalk, hardly a foot high.  We passed Mr. Woodward's charming country seat, saw the State Lunatic Asylum, and, as we took the steamboat, had a glimpse of the Navy Yard.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Then another delightful sail with old Tamalpais welcoming us back to the region where he presides, until at length tired, dusty, disordered, but rich in new experiences and pictured memories, we arrived at the Palace Hotel and revelled once more in all the appliances of the highest civilization.</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A DRIVE WITH FOSSE OF FOSSEVILLE.</P>
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115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>LAST DAYS IN SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
115.sgm:<P>IT had been decided that after the visit to the Yosemite Valley, which is, of course, inevitable in every Californian tour, we should explore the Southern part of the State to some extent, and return to the direct homeward route without revisiting the Golden Gate, and as the day of our departure drew near, every member of the party began, each in his or her own fashion, to make those frantic and futile snatches at the special delight they were about to lose, which are a feature of almost every departure whether from a scene of enjoyment or life itself.</P>
115.sgm:<P>For our own part we haunted the Chinese quarter, greedily gathering up every item of novelty, every intimation of the hidden life of this strange people, and so many tangible memorials of our visit as the limits of our purse and trunks would allow.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We visited Lee Yip and his silver "eelings" as usual, and found the shop crowded with customers; in especial we noticed the prettiest little China woman imaginable, dressed in dark blue silk trousers and a purple silk sack, her long hair braided with scarlet ribbons, and wearing rich bracelets, and ear-rings of green stones heavily set in gold.  Her expression was marvellously sweet, and her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Lee Yip gave us his autograph, and he and the rest amused themselves by examining our jewels and the young lady's purse, which they opened, discussed and handed it round, finally returning it with the contents intact.  From this favorite haunt we wandered away through several little dark alleys, seeing the dirt we had only smelt during our evening expedition.  The sidewalks are only wide enough for one person to pass at a time, and the doors of the houses open directly upon them, and as each door is provided with a sliding panel at the height of a man's head, one cannot fail to get a pretty clear idea of the internal economy of the houses; in many, however, the view was obstructed by a female face highly decorated, perfumed, and painted, looking out as earnestly as we were looking in; over many of these panel-windows a bunch of joss-sticks, or some red and gold paper were slowly burning away, probably on the horse-shoe principle, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>In one of these alleys we passed a doctor's office, with two great paper signs on rollers outside the door, covered with illustrations of the most hideous forms of disease depicted in the reddest possible paint, and a great deal of it.  Also we saw a poulterer's shop, with hundreds of bamboo cages of live hens and pigeons.  Near the Bureau of Emigration we again met a throng of newly-landed emigrants with umbrella-shaped hats and great bundles and bales done up with straw-ropes.  They were all chattering like magpies, and stared and laughed at us even more boldly than we did at them.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Just back of China Town is the French quarter, and we coyly promenaded through two or three streets of little one and two-storied houses, consisting, as the open window assured us, of little more than a front-parlor, and a bed-room behind, some of them elegantly furnished.  The half-doors are finished with a little cushioned ledge at the top, where the occupant may stand and lean with folded arms to enjoy the outer scenery when so disposed, while a little silver plate below is engraved with her Christian name only; a glass door within is decorated with lace-curtains and the air of the whole is prettier and more graceful than the Chinese houses.  There are, however, no joss-sticks or gilt paper above the doors, no amulets or charms, alas! to avert the evil that stalks boldly through all these quarters of the town.</P>
115.sgm:<P>In one of these last days, Mayor Bryant invited us for a parting drive behind his elegant four-in-hand team.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Live-oak and chaparral were abundant, but everything looked brown and dusty until we reached the Mayor's own grounds, where care and irrigation will soon make a paradise around the pretty cottage which he has recently purchased as a summer home.  Everything looked green and smiling, plenty of roses and other flowers, a rustic bridge, and a little summer-house, all home-like and rural.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We lunched in a pleasant company, and then walked up the hill behind the house to see the trout artificially hatched in a pool and brook, manufactured for them, as nearly as possible, on the model of their native New Hampshire streams; after this we visited the stables and horses, of which the Mayor is justly proud, sat in the cosy little house with Mrs. Bryant and her other guests, and then enjoyed one of the fastest of fast drives home in the purple twilight, and devoted the evening to the painful task of packing.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The next day we made a sorrowful promenade through some of our favorite haunts; we liked the steep hills which slope up and down from Kearney Street, with its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Then the fascination of climbing Sacramento or Washington Streets and finding one's self in that swarm of Chinese is one that never wears out for us, and were it not for wearying the reader, we could go through unnumbered pages describing the quaint, queer, outlandish sights and people, whom nobody comprehends, and who, while we arrogantly try to civilize and Christianize them by our own standard, complacently seat themselves, upon the heights of their own civilization, their own religion, and consider us as outside barbarians whom it is not worth their while to convince of error and ignorance.</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE ROAD TO THE "BIG TREES."  Page 243</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>A LODGE IN A VAST WILDERNESS.</P>
115.sgm:<P>AT three in the afternoon we said good-by to the Palace Hotel, and laden with flowers and pleasant adieux, and friendly wishes from a host of new-made, but not soon-to-be-forgotten friends, we embarked upon the Oaklands ferry-boat, and when well off discovered that a large portion of our luggage was left behind, and still ruminating on this disaster, took train for Merced, at which place we arrived at ten at night and were welcomed by Senator Conover and his party, whom we had arranged to meet at this point.</P>
115.sgm:<P>In spite of a driving shower we sallied forth to visit the lions of the place, the principal of which seemed to be the Cosmopolitan Saloon, large billiard and refreshment rooms handsomely furnished in native woods, gorgeously fitted up and said to be the finest establishment of the kind in California; its attractions for us, however, were soon exhausted, and we were all glad to return to our hotel for rest and sleep.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Seen by the gray light of early dawn next morning Merced showed itself a flat, straggling, dismal town enough, planted in the midst of a bare and level plain, destitute of trees, or verdure, or anything to be called scenery, unless the white sails of numberless windmills <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The great entrance hall was piled with luggage and crowded with travellers each intent upon his own especial box, his own especial route, and his own especial comfort.  One of our party was quite amused by a conversation rehearsed in this hall where an angry gentleman, disappointed in obtaining places in a coach secured entirely for ourselves, exclaimed: "Now that is what I call too bad, too--mean, if we have got to travel to the Yosemite in the wake of that Leslie party!  We were behind them all the way to the Geysers and back, and it was like travelling in the wake of a swarm of seven-year locusts.  Not a carriage, not a house, not a bed, not a guide, not a decent dinner to be had anywhere, `they had all been engaged or gone with or devoured by Mr. Leslie's party,' was the universal cry, until I was sick of the name and now we are going to have it all over again, it seems."</P>
115.sgm:<P>In spite of the lamentations of this modern Jeremiah, however, the best coach was soon laden with as many of us as it would hold, and the second best nearly filled with the remainder of the party, and we all drove cheerfully out of Merced, perfectly content with the dispensations of Providence, and wishing that everybody else was so also.  In the suburbs of Merced we saw in some of the barnyards a kind of plough peculiar to this region, having ten or a dozen blades or plough-shares, and intended to be drawn by as many horses.  Except for this contrivance it would be impossible to cultivate these immense fields, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>On these plains we saw the first jack-rabbits, as large as a great cat or small dog, who sat upon their haunches to contemplate the coach as it went by, and hardly seemed at all alarmed; we also saw gophirs and ground-squirrels playing around their burrows, and an occasional reedheron whirring up from among the willows.  We drove for miles over this weary and desolate plain with no sign of human life except a packtrain, two wagons hitched together and a string of mules.  As our course began to tend toward the hills we passed ranges of buttes looking like breastworks, with arches hollowed in them as if made by man; sharp, splintery slabs of stone cropped out here and there, looking like tombstones, crested over with bright orange and crimson lichens, and the whole surface of the country became more broken and rugged.</P>
115.sgm:<P>As we entered the more hilly region the thunder clouds gathered, a flash of vivid lightning nearly blinded us, and, contrary to all California precedent, the rain descended in a sudden flood just as we drew up at the first station where we were to change horses.  It was a very Bret Harte-ish little place, consisting of a narrow street of wooden shanties, a bar-room, a few shade trees, and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>It is a pretty place in itself, with a wild rolling country and wooded hills as a back ground, but like so many places in the West, its days of life and prosperity are over, the mining interest being in the hands of a few Chinamen, who "pan out" about a dollar a day.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We dined excellently well at Callison's, a tidy house, kept by a Pennsylvania woman who has lived in Mariposa for eighteen years; she amused us very much by her candid style of conversation, and in especial by her persistent inquiries as to which lady was the wife of the chief of our party, hazarding various ludicrous guesses, and coming to the right one last of all.  Having established the identity, she warmly grasped both hands and shook them heartily, exclaiming:</P>
115.sgm:<P>"Well, now, is this really Mrs. L.!  I've read lots of your writings, and there's nobody I wanted to see so much as you and Theodore Tilton!"  But why this remarkable collocation she did not explain nor we inquire.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The rain was over, but the sky was dark and lowering as we set forth for the long stretch of our last stage, including the ascent of the Sierras, and descent to Big <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>A ruined bridge once spanning the gulley, and an abandoned flume running along one of the steep banks, gave the place a wild and picturesque interest, culminating at Mormon Bar, where we turned off from the old "lead," and passing the row of tottering cabins, crowding and elbowing each other along the gulley, took the winding up-hill track, which brought us presently into a pine forest, through which we wound, catching occasional glimpses of the Merced Valley behind us, vast, desolate, and wild, while before us lay the level crest-line of the Sierras, dark, gloomy, and snow-clad.</P>
115.sgm:<P>About three o'clock the rain came down again in a cold drizzle, then in a steady pour, beneath which the picturesque was forgotten, the front seat abandoned, umbrellas went up and wraps went on, and every one devoted him or herself to the futile effort of keeping either dry or warm.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The road grew slippery and painful for the animals, and finally, when at five o'clock we stopped to change horses at Cold-Spring Station, a settlement of two houses and a watering-trough, Hiram, our driver, suggested the expediency of spending the night there, representing that we were just at the foot of the ridge between us and Big Tree Station, and confessing himself very reluctant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>It was already dusk, the forward route looked dismal and forbidding, and a ruddy gleam of fire-light shot through the window of the little cabin, half posting-house, half grocery-shop, before whose open door we sat.  The prospect of light, warmth, and rest, was too inviting to be resisted, and with one accord we dismounted from our dripping chariot, and entered the cabin <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
115.sgm:<P>It consisted of only three rooms, the first and largest fitted up with a counter, and the flickering light from the fire glimmered upon raftered ceiling, unplastered walls, bare floor, two or three rickety chairs, and a table upon which stood a single dip candle.  An open door revealed a little kitchen in which another fire was blazing.  Over this door a shelf crammed with old newspapers testified to the literary tastes of the family, consisting of two women, two tiny boys, and a baby, now in arms, but whose permanent resting-place was a queer high-posted crib covered with mosquito-netting, and occupying a prominent place in the shop.  On one side of the room some trunks were arranged for a settee, and on shelves behind the counter were piled the heterogeneous contents of a country grocer's shop.  On the floor at one end lay a heap of bags of flour and salt, and on these poor little Follette took refuge from the damp and dirt of the floor, her depressed tail, an unerring thermometer of her spirits, and general meekness of appearance, eloquently testifying to her appreciation of the situation.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We clustered around the fire, drying ourselves and our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The house boasted three beds.  One of these the hostess, with Minerva and her baby, reserved for herself.  The second, a trundle bed, was devoted to her own children and Senator Conover's little son, and the third she placed at the disposal of her sixteen guests!</P>
115.sgm:<P>The women were hospitable and well-meaning, but one found enough to do in supplying the fires with fuel, and the baby was like the cherubims and seraphims who "continually do cry," and required all the attention of the mother, so that no preparations of any consequence seemed likely or possible for the appeasing of the clamorous hunger which asserted itself in every breast.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The forlornness of everything was beyond words, and reminded me of a lifelike picture which in sympathetic childhood excited my most poignant grief by its representation of poor Marie Antoinette, her children, and her lump of a husband in the grocer's shop at Varennes, surrounded by articles of commerce much like those we contemplated, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The shock roused me, and I mentally rose to the occasion.  What a pity that there was nobody to thrust a baby into Napoleon's arms at Waterloo!  He would have <HI REND="italics">invented</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Retreating a pace from the offered burden, I hastily replied: "No; you hold the baby, and I will get the supper!"  A derisive shout from those best acquainted with my abilities bespoke their appreciation, and even Follette whined feebly, as if resigning her hopes of sustenance; but, nothing daunted, I sternly ordered her to remain quiet upon her briny couch, then dragging forth a table, spread some sort of cloth upon it, confiscated a quantity of delf displayed upon the shelves for sale, struck a hasty bargain for some canned oysters, sardines, and peaches, set the gentlemen to work in opening them, found a saucepan, and filling it with oysters, put it in charge of the Chief, of whom yachting experiences had made a tolerable cook, and made requisitions upon Minerva for butter, milk, and bread.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The staff of life proved but a broken reed in this instance, being small in quantity and largely compounded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Empty bottles did service for candle-sticks, and the winter's supply of dips were merrily consumed by lighting every nook and corner of the dingy little place.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Supper over, some daring souls raised the question of sleeping accommodations, but, catching the blank and bewildered expression upon the faces of their less practical and more imaginative friends, dropped it for awhile, and while one little knot fell into vehement discussion of Tannhauser and Wagner generally, some of the rest strayed out into the kitchen to watch Minerva wash the dishes, an operation in which she was helped or hindered by a Mexican Indian called George.  He knew very little English, and quite brightened up when our Cuban friend and myself spoke to him in Spanish, which was his vernacular; he had just come from Kansas, and was "staying along" with our hostess, an Englishwoman, who came here five years before, and engaged in mining interests and trade.</P>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MAKING A NIGHT OF IT. Page 227.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>But at ten o'clock the question of repose could no longer be deferred, and the whole female intellect of the place being brought to bear, it was decided that three ladies should take the one bed recommended by the hostess, with the nai&die;ve remark that: "As only me and baby had slept there, it wouldn't be worth while to change the sheets!"</P>
115.sgm:<P>Hearing this, the three looked at each other, and then assuming a mien mingled of Joan of Arc, Iphigenia, and Charlotte Corday, they wrapped themselves in shawls and lay across the couch without disturbing its coverings.  The pretty widow posed in a rocker tilted back, with her feet in another chair, and a blue and scarlet silken kerchief wound, gypsy fashion, around her waving golden locks, making a picture which I contemplated with great satisfaction by the flickering fire-light during a large portion of the night, for I had become so in love with the table I had laid for supper as to select it for my resting place, pillowing my head upon a bag of salt, which towards morning fell upon the bare floor with such a thud that I was sure it must be myself.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Two of the gentlemen stretched themselves upon the counter, one perched upon the trunks, several lay in a layer in a lair of straw upon the floor, and some youthful and enthusiastic spirits thought it fine to sit all night by the kitchen fire telling stories and asking melancholy conundrums.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The hostess and Minerva retired to their own little den, and as it was only divided from the shop by a shrunken board partition, we were edified by a loud <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The rain fell in torrents, cold gusts of air blew shrilly through the ill-jointed walls, the lock of the outer door was broken, and we had heard horrible tales of a gang of thieves and murderers pervading this vicinity.  These items, combined with the peculiarity of <HI REND="italics">breathing</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The beau of the party occupied himself during a large part of the night in keeping the fire alive, or we should certainly all have frozen, and when in the early morning the comfortless couches were abandoned, and the pallid, sleepy, unkempt occupants looked the situation, themselves, and each other in the face, a more dejected party of pleasure-seekers cannot be imagined; to divert our misery we saw that the rain still fell in torrents, we felt that the cold was biting, and we presumed that breakfast was to consist of only the remains of last night's supper.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A small diversion to the gloom was caused by the young lady of the party, who had hung some of her garments to dry beside the kitchen fire, and now found a difficulty in collecting them, all finally were recovered, however, except a basque, of which no account could be obtained until a susceptible and romantic widower of the party emerged from the straw with it gracefully draped about his head to protect it from the draught inhabiting his corner.  He acknowledged that the sleeves, with their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>I found myself far too dejected to offer any help in getting breakfast, and was in fact so crushed that I think if the hostess had insisted upon my holding the baby she would now have found a submissive and passive victim.  With matters in this condition we were startled by the abrupt entrance of several men of rough exterior, but whom we presumed to be "to the manner born," by the directness with which they made for the whiskey jug hidden beneath the counter.  They were in fact members of the family detained from home by the storm and now returning with materials for a savory breakfast, upon which we at once pounced, they sitting by while we consumed it, and entertaining us with a little history of their estate or rancho.</P>
115.sgm:<P>It was formerly owned, it seems, by a party called A., who gave a piece of his land to his friend C., who built a cabin upon it, but subsequently went farther up the hills, seized upon another piece of A.'s land and built another cabin.  A. considering this an abuse of good-nature, tried to turn him out, but unsuccessfully, and the quarrel became so bitter that A. swore to have C.'s life.  One night both men were drinking in the bar-room of A.'s rancho--the very room where we then sat at breakfast--and the quarrel running very high, when A. got up and went behind the counter for something; C., supposing that it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>This cheerful tale did not lessen our willingness to leave the locality, and about eight o'clock, as the rain had cease for awhile, the stage-wagons were got out, and after paying for our accommodations a price sufficient ot hire a Italian palace for a year, we embarked and began out five-mile ascent of the Sierras.  It was slow and disma work, and the poor horses evidently did not see the sens of it, but we got on, and by and by met two return stages whose drivers reported three feet of snow higher up.  We soon came upon wreaths and little drifts of it beside the road, and a fine drizzling rain again beset us.</P>
115.sgm:<P>In spite of all, however, we could not but enjoy the scenery, the great sugar-pines with their monstrous cones occasional red-woods, and gaunt shapes of great trees, with their hearts burned out by the Indians, or herdsmen, or bush burners.  Over everything, dead and decayed, the yellow Yosemite moss began to appear, creeping in parallel lines up the trunks of the trees, and clothing the dry branches with a sunset glow.  We passed the cabins of the Chinese road-menders, and some ruined huts forlornly picturesque, and once we saw an Indian, wrapped in his blanket, gliding between the ranks of black-green pines and never deigning to turn his head towards us.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The snow grew deeper, the cold was intense, the rain heavier, and the romance of travel less and less perceptible <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>EN ROUTE FOR THE YOSEMITE.  Page 219.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.</P>
115.sgm:<P>THE hotel at Big Tree Station is a building of the composite, or rather, detached style of architecture, the parlors and dining-room occupying one building and the bed-rooms others at some little distance--a matter of importance in such a rain as welcomed us to our resting place.  There were some straggling barns, corrals, etc., with a background of tall slender pines merging into the dense mountain forest behind.</P>
115.sgm:<P>It rained incessantly all the afternoon, so that we deferred our visit to the Big Trees until our return, and contented ourselves with sitting on the piazza and watching the Mexican herdsmen, in their big blue army cloaks and picturesque sombreros, and the Indians in ragged shirts and pantaloons, with their shaggy hair falling over their faces and shoulders.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A flock of four thousand sheep were driven into a corral near the stables that afternoon to be separated according to their brands, and sent out in several directions.  Among the lookers-on was a fine, handsome old Mexican, who officiates as bootblack at the hotel, reminding one of King Alfred and the oat-cakes, although Esteban does not forget his work in dreams of former grandeur, but blacks shoes as if Montezuma had never been his ancestor.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A PERIPATETIC COBBLER.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>At half-past six next morning we started for the valley, driving along the south fork of the Merced up a steep and narrow road, winding almost as much as that at the Geysers, with a magnificent sweep of mountain-side opposite, at least two thousand feet in height, and clothed thick with pines crowding down to the brink of the little green brawling river below.  At Lookout Point the road makes a sharp narrow curve, and there is a magnificent view down the can&tilde;on and the valley beyond to where the crowding peaks of the Sierras fade away into the pale blue horizon.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Flocks of sheep dot the landscape here and there, and the woods are full of deer, wild-cats, California lions, and grizzly bears, one of which appeared in the road a few days before our visit, and frightened the horses half to death.  It grew cloudy and cold just before we reached the valley, and we were afraid the views would be obscured.  We were still discussing our fears and hopes, and had no idea that their end was at hand, when a flash of snowy white struck through the trees, and then a sudden curve of the road showed us a great white gleaming wall reaching to the clouds--a mountain of ivory, as it looked, with a streak of bright water flashing down at the side.</P>
115.sgm:<P>It was El Capitan, the King of the Valley, the monarch for whose sake it would be worth while to make the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>As we first saw it with the clouds resting upon its summit, and a great patch of sunlight lying across its seamless front, it impressed us even more than Mont Blanc or many another more elevated and famous mountain.  Winding round Inspiration Point we came in view of the whole valley, the pale silvery gray mountains ranging away at either hand from the great white king.  We looked, drew breath, and gave vent with such powers as God had given us to the wonder, delight, admiration, and awe which all persons, I believe, experience in first beholding this marvel of nature.  But who ever could put such emotions into words that conveyed them to any other mind?</P>
115.sgm:<P>To know the Yosemite, to see El Capitan, to get a picture into your mind which will be a lifelong delight to yourself, but utterly "not transferable," you must do just what we did, go yourself and bring it away.  Leaving Inspiration Point, both literally and metaphorically there, we wound round the sharpest of curves, down the can&tilde;on into the valley.  In reaching the bottom it seemed as if we had left the surface of the earth, and entered a mere crevice of its granitic foundations, a fissure in the great chaos of everlasting rocks; and the towering peaks and overhanging crags seem marching down upon one, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Literally the valley is so deep that in winter the sun rises after ten in the morning and sets about three, and yet several families live here the year round.  The forms of the various summits are varied and majestic, their height varying from one to six thousand feet, but after all it seemed to us that the variety and wondrous beauty of coloring is even more marvellous than the form, height, or grandeur of the scene.  From El Capitan's creamy, ivory whiteness the rocks deepen through every shade of pearl, smoke, and gray tints to great black patches here and there frescoed upon the silvery gray granite, and the masses of dusky oaks and dense green pines that cling to the face of the range.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Next to El Capitan, we were most impressed, as we drove on through the valley, with the South Dome, or, as the Indians called it, Tis-oa-ack, the Goddess of the Valley, a great shining silvery dome, as perfect as if one cut a globe through with a knife.  A little patch of snow rested upon its summit and glittered in the sunshine, and at its edge one tiny shrub, as it looked, which our guide told us was a pine tree of goodly size, as seen through a telescope, for no one has as yet been able to reach the summit of this mountain, the dome itself being tiled as it were with great, smooth, overlapping slabs of granite, curving at an angle of about sixty degrees, and impossible of passage to any natural appliances except wings.  No doubt the craving curiosity and love of dominion inherent in man will impel somebody before long to drag all sorts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>We drove five miles down the valley beside the clear waters of the Merced, rippling over their bed of silvery pebbles, past Black's Hotel and the Cosmopolitan bathhouses, to the Yosemite House, constructed like the Big Tree Station Hotel, in detached buildings--dining-room and kitchen offices in one, bed-rooms in several others, and the parlor over the way from all.  Opening from the parlor is a room built round the trunk of a huge oak tree, and embellished with a great open fire-place built of stones rudely fitted together and whitewashed.  A big fire was blazing here, but the room was a most distracting place to me, as it was impossible either to feel one's self either in the house or out of doors in it, and one could never tell whether to sit down in slippers with a book beside the fire, or don one's hat and take a walk beneath the tree.</P>
115.sgm:<P>After dinner, and about sunset, we started to walk to the foot of the Yosemite Falls, just behind the hotel.  It is a pleasant stroll over a green field or two, and crossing upon a little bridge over the Merced River, whose bright waters enter the valley by a plunge over its rocky wall in the Vernal and Nevada Falls.  The foot of the fall is encumbered with great boulders and masses of rock and fallen trees; but scrambling among them as best we might, we approached the great wonder through clouds of driving mist and spray that would soon wet one to the skin.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>The highest of the falls is 2,600 feet, and Niagara is 163, and yet the two are kin in the sensations of slowly gathering delight and awe that they evoke.  It was but a glimpse that we could take, for dusk was already upon us, and after a few moments of silent admiration we turned our backs, resolving to perfect our acquaintance on the morrow.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Descending from our seventh heaven of romance and delight, we sought our sleeping-rooms, and found the accommodations of the most primitive description--the chambers small, sparsely furnished, and with but a single window, and door opening upon the piazza, the former provided with no shade but a wooden one, quite effectual in shielding one from the world's rude gaze, but also effectual in excluding all light.  The struggle to dress under these adverse circumstances was rather a severe one, but at a very respectable hour in the morning the party assembled in the parlor-house, adjourned to the dining-room house, and after breakfast separated, some to pay a second visit to the Yosemite Falls, some to sit placidly upon the piazza and contemplate them from that point, from whence, indeed, one gains an admirable view.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Some of the party, however, found energy to set off on horseback, under the charge of two guides, to ascend Glacier Point and obtain one of the wildest and most impressive views of the whole valley.  One of the guides was the owner of the trail, and the other, in consequence of being snowed up over night in the Sierras, had totally and permanently lost his voice, and conversed altogether in a hoarse whisper.  The Merced was crossed over a tall bridge, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The Yosemite Falls is always in sight, and El Capitan dominated the valley as usual.  The trail grew steeper and more terrific, and after a time, by suggestion, most of the party dismounted, making the rest of the way on foot, the guides leading the horses.  The path wound and doubled, always ascending for about a quarter of a mile, then led through pine-woods for a space, and finally ended upon Glacier Point itself, a rocky summit, 6,000 feet above the sea level.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A little foot-trail through the chaparral led to a smooth over-hanging rock, and here, for those who have the nerve to stand, or the moral courage to creep on hands and knees, lies the Mecca of their morning's pilgrimage.  Again words fail to give any idea of the view to be gained from this eyrie, the more especially as all painters, photographers, and draughtsmen fail in giving the idea of profound depths uncontrasted with heights, and here all is depth, except, to be sure, the crests of the Sierras upon the horizon, and the splendid South Dome, North Dome, Clud's Rest Cap, of Liberty, Mount Star King, and the other summits, whose level, or near it, has been attained; but below are to be seen great trees two hun <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Opposite lay the Mountain of the Royal Arches, or as the Indians more significantly called it, To-coy-ae, the Baby-Basket-Shade, for the silvery-gray face of the rock is cut in regular sweeping curves, just like the top of a Piute baby-basket.  A little house has just been completed here, where one may dine, or, if one chooses, spend the night.  An additional climb, on horseback, of a thousand feet brings one to Sentinel Dome; this is the hardest part of the ride, as there is hardly any trail, but the horses pick their way, in some places very steep, among the stones strewing the dome-like summit, until a circle is reached of deep snow, and a gnarled and twisted old tree which marks the crest.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The view here takes in the entire valley from El Capitan to Vernal Falls, with South Dome, and Star King, and Cloud's Rest, and all the great still peaks, upon whose eternal silence and seclusion it seems so impertinent for chattering, staring, lunch-eating humanity to intrude.  From here also is to be had the real idea of the formation of the valley, and it may be seen that it is not a level shut in by mountains rising on either hand, but a cleft in the immense plateau of the Sierras, and one may look down and down into its blue depths as one would look into the centre of the earth were it to open at one's feet.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The guide rolled an immense rock down the steep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Mirror Lake is about three miles from the hotel, and the pictures impressed on its placid surface are best to be seen in the early morning.  On its one side rises South Dome, and on the other Washington Column and North Dome, and the little lake is all shut in by the great chiselled walls of stone, carved as richly as any cathedral, Gothic or Norman, or as the old rock temples of the Egyptian Kings.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Some great white scars upon North Dome, we were told, were caused by avalanches, or slides of rock, which take place almost every winter, under the influence of frost and sun and melting snows.  But perhaps as fine a sight as Mirror Lake is to be found by following the Merced River down the valley until one reaches the pool it forms at the feet of El Capitan, and as one gazes upon the picture of the great monarch, it seems the grandest shadow of this world of shades.</P>
115.sgm:<P>But to catalogue the sights and wonders of the Yosemite Valley would be at once a thankless and unsatisfactory task; each pair of eyes must see, each heart must open to receive, each memory must reproduce for itself the marvel of the great mountains, the bright, brilliant beauty of the falls, the loveliness of coloring, the unique charm and fascination of the whole.  What use, for instance, to say that the Bridal Veil Cataract is six hundred and thirty feet in height?  Does that fact give an idea of its undulating, gauzy, and ever-varying folds of most impalpable vapor and mist, now condensing into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>This excursion first, on horseback if you choose, or on foot if you are wise and physically strong, to the top of Vernal falls, and after dining and resting, still higher to the top of the Nevada Falls, is perhaps the finest of all that can be made in the Yosemite, although it seems basest ingratitude to rank anything lower than best, when all are so charming, and so far beyond the best of anywhere else, perhaps in the world.  So, waiving all further attempts at description, we simply say, provide yourselves with good, plain, weather-proof clothes and boots; put money in your purse, and a cheerful and unexacting spirit in your temper, for the Yosemite is no paradise of creature comforts; arrange if you can a party large enough to fill a coach chartered for your private use, and then go your way, prepared to spend a week, if possible in this wonderful place, whose remembrance will be a delight to you as long as you live.</P>
115.sgm:<P>An excursion we did not make, but what is said amply to repay the added fatigue, expense, and time, is the tour of the rim of the Valley.  This can be made in four or five days, camping out at night with guides, tents, and animals to carry about those cumbersome appliances of civilization without which most of us find it so uncomfortable to exist for even a day.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>THE MARIPOSA "BIG TREES."</P>
115.sgm:<P>WE left the valley about eleven o'clock one morning, looking our last, as we hurried past, at one object after another already grown familiar and beloved, and at Inspiration Point paused for one long, last, comprehensive gaze at everything from El Capitan to Vernal Falls, to gaze, to wipe the parting tear--and to lunch!  Poor human nature, to whom crackers, sardines, and Pomery Sec. are still a necessity, let the South Dome glitter never so grandly, El Capitan look down serene and inscrutable as all Egypt, and the Bridal Veil float and glisten, and waver, as if it hid capricious Undine herself within its folds.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The day was hot and dusty, the reaction from intense delight and fatigue was upon us, everybody was silent and drowsy, and nothing appeared very cheerful until about sunset we came upon a herdsman's camp on Otter Creek, and saw the wild and picturesque-looking fellows lying or standing around their great fire, some merely posing, like Salvator Rosa's people, some preparing a supper of lamb, spitted for roasting, bread, ready kneaded for baking, and tin pots of coffee.  Great flocks of sheep were grazing about, and all along the sides of the can&tilde;on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The scene recalled an old German fairy story of the Charcoal Burners, in the Hartz Mountains, and one idly wondered if Ru&die;bezahl were not behind this or that great pine tree, ready to offer to some of us that wonderful bargain of all that this world holds, in exchange for what we hope in another, which some mortals would be so glad to make, if they had the chance, and some have already made, and some are sure they would never make, simply because they have never had the chance of making it.</P>
115.sgm:<P>About seven we reached Big Tree Station, dined, and wandered about in search of our detached bed-rooms, and then passed a pleasant evening beside the huge, blazing wood-fire in the cheerful parlor, listening to the diverse accounts and impressions of those who had made the journey to <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Directly after breakfast next morning the horses were selected and the party started for the excursion to the Big Tree Grove.  The trail was an easy and safe one, winding along the hill-sides without sharp turns, but always rising through pine-woods for about five miles.  The sugar-pines in this region grow to an enormous size, and happily but few of them have been burned, an operation which has nearly ruined the beauty of many fine tracts of woodland here.  The dog-wood also grows into quite tall trees, and bears a larger flower than we ever see at the East.  The party was followed part of the way by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The first view of the Sequoias is rather disappointing; they are huge trees, no doubt, but so much has been said and written of them, and one's ideas become so romantically and vaguely raised, that probably no reality could have satisfied them; besides, we had already seen the Sonoma red-wood grove, and a first love, if not so worthy as the subsequent ones, is always <HI REND="italics">the first</HI>
115.sgm:<P>A stop was made beside the Fallen Monarch, lying two hundred feet or more along the ground, its white and polished sides completely stripped of bark to where the branches began, and above that thatched with slippery, shaggy, red scales.  The bark of these trees is one of their most noticeable features, reaching sometimes the thickness of two feet, and averaging one foot; it is of a beautiful, light bronzed-brown color, and gnarled and twisted into the most fantastic curves and shapes.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Climbing a ladder leaned against this poor fallen monarch's side, one promenades up and down the trunk as in a dancing-hall, reminding one of the Liliputians swarming over prostrate Gulliver, until finally all wended their way to the Grizzly Giant, the next memorable tree.  It is certainly a monstrous vegetable, measuring ninety-two feet in circumference, or thirty feet in diameter at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ASCENDING THE "FALLEN MONARCH."  Page 244.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>The Grizzly Giant is evidently immensely old, but the <HI REND="italics">savants</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Another mile very steep and rather tiring, and the main or upper grove was reached, where lunch awaited the party, and this being disposed of, it was found by wandering about that <HI REND="italics">the trees</HI>
115.sgm:<P>At the upper end of the grove lies Pluto's Chimney, a great tree burnt out black and smooth inside, with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The trees here are more in number and average larger in size than at the Calaveras Grove, but are not so tall.  About five hundred years are required to bring a Sequoia to maturity, a fact militating against one's natural desire to carry home slips and seeds, and raise them, in mignonette boxes on one's window-sill!</P>
115.sgm:<P>A great deal of the pleasure of visiting these groves is destroyed by the ravages of fire, which has devastated them at different times, destroying many trees entirely, ruining the shape of others, and giving a general look of forlornness and smirch to the whole scene.  Still, no one who can do so should omit to visit them, as they are certainly among the unique and marvellous works of Nature, of which California is justly proud.</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CUTTING DOWN ONE OF THE BIG TREES.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>THE QUEEN OF THE ANGELS.</P>
115.sgm:<P>THE tedium of our return drive to Merced was enlivened, apart from the internal resources of the party, by the sight of several immense droves of sheep, and one herd of the prettiest little white kids, capering about among the chaparral so gracefully, that one profanely wondered, if it might not be better, after all, to rank as goat rather than sheep; after this came dinner at Mariposa, and beyond Mariposa were some Chinese placer miners hard at work with shovel and pan; then we were diverted by the struggles of some sheep in one of the high bush fences, used to enclose them in this quarter, and finally on the Merced Plains the series of entertainments concluded with a driving rain-storm accompanied by a high warm wind.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Although disagreeable to us, the rain seemed to bring delight to those residing in this locality, for the drought had been so continued and severe that the sheep were unable to find nourishment, and their owners were selling them at a couple of dollars each.  All of a sudden the storm cleared, the jack-rabbits and squirrels came out in crowds to give us good-day, while at the mouth of almost every burrow sat a solemn little gray owl, his yellow eyes blinking in the sunshine which now broke <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>We found the town excited over a fire which two nights before had burned down several blocks of warehouses, and everybody was on the alert to find the incendiary, who, being discovered, would, as Hiram, our driver, confidently averred, "tumble off a one-legged horse and break his neck, without troubling judge or jury."</P>
115.sgm:<P>Our hotel-car was to meet us at Merced, and did so, so that very night we settled down to the old life of sections and berths and the lullaby of iron wheels circling on iron rails, and felt that the homeward journey had begun, although our course was for the present southward.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The next day we passed over the famous Tehatchapi Loop, where the railway, after running through the Tehatchapi Mountain, loops around and crosses on itself by tunnel as the only possibility of getting over the tremendous grade between the two levels.  The country now changed to a dry, desolate plain, dotted over with gray-green herbage-like sage-brush, and needle-palms with twisted branches studded with branches of sharp green spears.  Nothing much drearier than this monotonous brown plain, shut in at the horizon by cone-like hills as bare and brown as itself, can be imagined, and it was a relief to arrive and get out for a few moments at Robber's Roost, a little beyond Mojave.  It is named in honor of the famous robber, Vasquez, who had his principal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The principal feature of the place at present is a manufactory where paper is made from the fibrous wood of the needle-palm, which is cut into sections four inches thick, macerated in water, and afterwards treated precisely like other material.  The result is a fine white and also a coarse light brown paper, both of them very satisfactory.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The rest of the way to Los Angeles was through the same arid plain and among broken hills dotted with cactus and needle-palms, hot, smoking, and tropical looking.  We had appointed to meet Mr. Baldwin, of San Francisco, at Los Angeles, and to visit his ranch; but as he was not at the station on our arrival, we left our belongings in the car, and sallied forth to view the town.</P>
115.sgm:<P>It was quite different from any we had yet seen, having a distinctly Spanish and semi-tropical air, and making us feel more decidedly than we yet had done, that we were away from home and almost in a foreign land.  The shops were most of them open to the street, and in the fruiterers' stalls hung great bunches and branches of oranges with the leaves on, as if just plucked.  Besides the oranges, lemons, bananas and grapes, peaches and apricots were offered in great abundance, and all of most tempting size and beauty.  In fact, one felt more as if promenading the hall of an Agricultural Fair than a public street, and found it hard to believe that just such fruits, or others as fine, besides an abundance of flowers, may be plucked at Los Angeles every day in the year.</P>
115.sgm:<P>In fact, this place seems the long-sought paradise for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The stories told of the salubrity, the charm, and the equability of the climate are marvellous, and one thing not yet mentioned completes the list of attractions.  One need not pass four anxious weeks in every year in considering one's spring, summer, autumn, and winter clothes, since where the thermometer never varies more than forty degrees through the year, and when Major Truman says he never changed his bed-coverings from January to December, surely there need not be a total revolution of costume four times during that period.  We commend this consideration to the sex with whose cares and anxieties we are best acquainted, while to their lords we will simply say, "There are millions in it;" for let nations rise and fall, Turk or Russian beat, hard or soft money win the day, oranges will still be eaten, lemons will still be drunken, and grapes will be pressed into wine as they have been since the days of Noe&die;, and of raising all these things there is no end here in the heart of semi-tropical California, and the wily heathen stands ready to labor for you well and cheaply.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The city itself, El Pueblo de la Reina de los Angeles, to give its full name, is "of a certain age," that is to say, an age difficult to determine, having originated in 1781, when Felipe de Nieve, then Spanish Governor of California, issued from his quarters at the Mission of St. Gabriel, nine miles distant, an order of a settlement <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The town thus founded consisted of twelve invalided soldiers with their families, and the horses, oxen, sheep, goats, asses, and hoes, provided for them by a paternal government quite alive to the fact that men cannot pay taxes without the means of earning money.  The village thus constituted vegetated mildly for fifty years or so, and in 1836, after the dear old Padres had been so unkindly disturbed from their sleepy picturesque prosperity, and their orange groves and olive gardens sold for the benefit of the Mexican Government, Los Angeles was made into a city, so called, and became the capital of Alta California.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Still it consisted of only one crooked street of adobe houses, with a mission church at one end, an alcalde's office, and no disagreeable agitation or novelty to show that the nineteenth century had gotten hold of it, although passing with the rest of California into possession of the United States at the close of the Mexican war, until the discovery of gold, and the consequent invasion of California by men who, with their lives in their hands, freely offered to barter them for riches, brought this garden of the State into notice.  Capitalists, laborers, speculators came, saw, and settled.  The sleepy street of adobe houses was relegated to the condition of a suburb, and an American city was added to it somewhat in the style that San Francisco was added to the Mission Dolores.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Churches, school-houses, banks, manufactories, hotels, and newspaper offices have sprung up, some of them to a surprising size, English is spoken generally, railways connect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>Even on that first day we found ourselves well pleased, as we strolled up the wide street beneath the awnings spread from every shop, and looked in at the open stalls.  In one stood rows of great red jars for water-coolers, reminding one of Ali Baba and the forty thieves, and gay stuffs for dresses and mantles and scarfs, such as these half-tropical women love to wear.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Now and then we met a Mexican woman, the head muffled in her mantilla, and the sun glaring on her yellow skin, and plenty of Chinese, cool, sleek, and comfortable.  Near the Pico House we passed a Spanish hostelry of some sort, with a shadowy green court-yard in front, a piano playing within doors, and a brown sen&tilde;ora with some pretty children strolling under the trees.  We stopped to dine at a French cafe&acute; called the Commercial Restaurant, built around two square courts, upon the larger of which the dining-room opened, so that sitting at table we looked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:out upon the wide, sunshiny extent with a gallery running around it, and some orange trees in odorous bloom.  Opposite our windows were those of the kitchen, with the white-capped <HI REND="italics">chef</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The dinner was delicious, and the shade and rest refreshing, but in a little while all were ready for further explorations, and began with a photographer's rooms, in one corner of whose salon was a dentist's office curtained off, and we were curious to discover whether the period just before or just after the dental operations is considered by the Angelites most favorable to sitting for a picture.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Here also was a large reading-room, well supplied with books and periodicals.  After glancing at these we continued our explorations, and presently found ourselves in a square of little one-story buildings, whose red and gilt door-plates would have betrayed the presence of our Mongolian guests, even without the blue-clad, cork-soled, umbrella-hatted, and cunning-eyed figures, standing or squatting around, and the oddly coiffed woman stooping to relight one of the joss-sticks at her door.  There were a few Chinese shops, but too small and dirty to be attractive, and in fact one's taste becomes in Los Angeles too distinctively Spanish to care for other flavors, so we soon drove back to the older part of the town, to gaze admiringly at the long low white walls and flat tiled roofs of the adobe houses, and the picturesque figures of their inmates, and the glowing sunlight which only shines in Spanish countries, and all of which recalled the pleasant days of Peruvian memory.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>BALDWIN'S RANCH OF SANTA ANITA.</P>
115.sgm:<P>RETURNING to the station, we met Mr. Baldwin, our kind San Franciscan friend, who had volunteered to meet us here at Los Angeles, and show us his ranch and orange groves, and we now found him awaiting us with a six-in-hand carriage and a buggy.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We started just as the great white moon rose above the hills, and soon were out upon the open plain, flying over the hard, dry sod, which rang like iron beneath the horses' hoofs; the air was warm and balmy, the moon-light brilliant, the rapid motion exhilarating, and the whole drive delightful, except perhaps the moment when the leaders of the six-horse team suddenly gave a plunge which snapped the harness connecting them with the rest, fortunately entirely, and galloped away into the distance, leaving their comrades very much astonished, their driver very much discomforted, and ourselves not a little startled.  The horses were found next day, one with a broken leg which could only be cured with a rifle ball, and the other safe in the barn of a neighboring ranch, where he had taken refuge.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The twelve miles' drive was speedily accomplished, and suddenly rounding the corner of a great unfenced field of barley, we drove through Mr. Baldwin's orange orchard, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Like most of this class of house, it is a long, low building, surrounded by a wide piazza, and completely buried in evergreens, tree-ferns and climbing vines.  A great Chinese lantern hung in the piazza, and a pretty, demure little housekeeper, with Spanish eyes and an English tongue, stood ready to welcome us and take us to our rooms, all opening into each other and out upon the piazza--charming rooms, large, cool, and with deep window-seats in the two-feet thickness of the walls.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Directly after breakfast the next morning, we sallied forth to see the wine-houses and other features of the plantation.  Passing through the garden just behind the house, and by the pretty little lake, we crossed a wide open space among prickly pears and mock-orangevines, with tarantula holes under foot, and the wonderfully beautiful San Gabriel Mountains rising in purple cones just beyond the arid brown plain, mountain and moor all shimmering in the tropical sunshine, which seemed to rain down upon our unaccustomed heads, so that we were glad to get inside the great, cool, shady wine-houses.</P>
115.sgm:<P>In the first were the huge vats where the grape pressing takes place; in the second, great tuns of wine, sherry, claret, and angelica, all of which were tapped and offered for our inspection; and in the third were stills for converting wines into brandies.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Coming out of the wine-houses we found the carriage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>At the stables were rows of windows, through nearly every one of which a horse's head protruded in the most sociable manner, and every head handsome enough for a picture.  In the centre of the stables is the head groom's sitting-room, cosy and bright, and hung round with pictures of famous horses, principally racers, diversified with a few actresses, a rack of whips and some bright spurs, while gray rugs and horse-clothing lay neatly folded on shelves or in boxes, and altogether the place looked quite a little paradise for a person of equine propensities.  We were introduced to Grimstead, who was at the Saratoga races last year, and to several unnamed beauties with their graceful heads, delicate limbs, and coats shining like satin.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Leaving the stables, we drove to Sunny Slope, Mr. Rose's famous ranch, 1,200 acres in extent.  We recrossed much of the dry brown plains we had traversed on the previous night, startling the little ground-squirrels, who scurried to their burrows and disappeared at our approach.</P>
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115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The green mock-orange vines with their globes scattered far apart were the only green things to be seen, until we turned into Mr. Rose's grounds and found ourselves in a grove of orange trees, extending in every direction to an indefinite distance.  The trees were tall, thick, and sturdy, laden with heavy golden fruit hiding beneath the glossy leaves, and enough blossoms to load the air with the perfume of a thousand weddings; the trees are planted in regular lines, each one in a shallow basin formed in the earth around its roots, and trenches running between every five trees, which at certain intervals are filled with water, which is carried to every tree.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Farther on was a grove of lemons, the trees not so pretty in shape or foliage as the oranges, but laden with perfectly enormous fruit; then there were rows of fig-trees, and clumps of olive with their masses of dusky foliage, and here and there banana trees, although this fruit seems not so much at home here as the fig, orange, olive, and lemon.  The irrigating trenches pervade all these plantations, and everything looks green and flourishing.</P>
115.sgm:<P>From here we visited the Mile Ranch, owned by Col. Kewen, who coming to this part of the country more than fifteen years ago, found on the spot selected for his future abode the roofless walls of an old stone building, built a hundred and one years before, by the San Francisco monks of the Mission San Gabriel, as a grist-mill and granary.  Only the walls remained, but they were five feet thick and flanked at each corner by heavy buttresses, adding both to the strength and picturesqueness of the building.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Colonel Kewen restored and improved and added to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>No walls or fences limit the view, and the satisfied eye roams over masses of heliotrope six feet high, roses of every shade, banks of honeysuckle, lilies heavy with perfume, azaleas, passion-flowers and pomegranates all on fire, cactii and aloes, and some grand old willows sweeping the ground with their slender finger-tips.</P>
115.sgm:<P>But with all the beauty of its surroundings El Rancho del Molino is uninhabitable--being haunted, so the Spaniards will tell you, by the spirit of the mill, a legacy bequeathed by the old monks, who may have walled up some recreant nun or heretical priest in one of the great corner buttresses.</P>
115.sgm:<P>At any rate no Spaniard will live at the Rancho del Molino, although Colonel Kewen and his family manage to exist very pleasantly, the ghost not troubling them half so much as the still smouldering enmity in the breasts of the native Spanish population, who regard the Saxons as interlopers and fraudulent possessors of land that should be theirs, as it was their fathers'.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Mrs. K. told us that when she first came here the country was overrun by herds of wild cattle--a beast for every blade of grass, she said, and it was impossible for her to ride any distance without a guard of fifteen or twenty <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>A VERY OLD WOMAN AND A VERY OLD CHURCH.</P>
115.sgm:<P>WHILE in San Francisco we had been shown the photograph of Eulalia Perrez, of Los Angeles--the oldest woman in the world--and now finding ourselves in the close vicinity we resolved on paying her a visit.  Mr. Baldwin accordingly drove us to her house, a quaint old brown adobe structure, with a projecting roof sloping steeply from the centre, and two or three old wine-vats built against the walls.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We mounted to a piazza, where we were met by a very pretty and very typical Spanish girl, wearing a high comb and speaking English with a very charming accent.</P>
115.sgm:<P>She showed us into a sitting-room, and having sent to call the old lady, entertained us to the best of her ability, informing us that she was Sen&tilde;ora Eulalia's great-grand-daughter, her grandmother, the youngest grandchild, being sixty-five years old; her own father is an American, named Michel White; her great-grandmother's age, she said was about 140, "but old as she is, she cannot speak a word of English," added she, with conscious pride in her own proficiency.  She said the old lady was always cheerful and sweet-tempered, although growing a trifle childish.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Presently she went out and returned with her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:great-grandmother upon her arm, a short, shrunken figure, dressed in a dark calico shirt and sacque, with a gray shawl and gay carpet-slippers, her head queerly covered by a close-fitting black merino hood with a white kerchief inside, and no hair visible even upon the forehead; her skin was almost dark as a mulatto's, and seamed with a million fine wrinkles.  Her eyes were shrunken to such a degree as to give the impression of having disappeared altogether, leaving only two narrow loopholes, red as fire, and uncanny to look upon, but she presently gave a proof that the power of discriminating sight remained, for after having talked with me for some time she inquired if I were married, and being answered in the affirmative, demanded to <HI REND="italics">which</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The Chief stood at the further end of the room, speaking with a friend in the party, and indicating him, I said, "The gentleman with gray hair."  "Yes," replied Eulalia quickly, "but there are two gentlemen with gray hair, which is yours?"</P>
115.sgm:<P>Then surveying first the one, and then the other, she exclaimed rather impatiently, "Well, I should not think you need have married a man with white hair," and added some comments upon my appearance, which showed that at least her sight was perfect, whatever may be thought of her taste and judgment.</P>
115.sgm:<P>She seemed quite delighted at my speaking to her in Spanish, and kept up the conversation in an eager and animated manner, and with a strength of voice and quickness of hearing quite extraordinary, accompanying her words with marked gesticulations.</P>
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115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OLDEST WOMAN IN THE WORLD.  Page 259.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>She wore a brown rosary about her neck, and on my referring to her being a good Catholic said, that by the crucifix she had learned the lesson of how to live, and she hoped how to die.</P>
115.sgm:<P>She had been married twice, and said that in her youth she had many lovers, but could not decide which of them to marry until the padre interfered and insisted that she must make a choice, which she accordingly did, but was left a widow, and again she made a selection, and one based on maturer judgment, and she had been even happier in her second nuptials than in her first.</P>
115.sgm:<P>When asked her age, she counted on her fingers ten, twenty, thirty, and so on, up to 140, and it is certain, and on record, that when the present church of the Mission of San Gabriel was built, in 1771, she was a married woman with three children.</P>
115.sgm:<P>She has three daughters and two sons alive, and grandchildren eighty years old, all settled around the mission, and she lives with all of them alternately, going to church regularly every Sunday.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Two years ago she executed a piece of fine embroidery for sale at a fair, and still uses her needle constantly.  It was proposed to take her to the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, and she actually went as far as the cars, when some of her relatives, to whom she is a revenue, interfered, and brought her home again.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Perhaps it was as well, for she has never been in all her long life farther than eight miles from Loretto, her birthplace, and the fatigue and excitement would, no doubt, have been a risk.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>By the time she had told all this, we feared that the dear old lady, who, by the way, was most exquisitely neat, might be tired, although she gave no signs of fatigue, and so rose to take our leave.</P>
115.sgm:<P>She appeared really sorry to have us go, and followed us quite out to the carriage, bidding the spokeswoman an especial good-by with a prettily-turned Spanish compliment, not only upon my appearance, but what she called my amiability in visiting and talking to, and cheering a poor old woman.  Pressing my hand in a firm, almost virile manner, she gently uttered in sweet, pure Spanish the blessing which comes with such authority and sanctity from aged lips, and we parted with mutual regret.</P>
115.sgm:<P>As a suitable pendant to this visit, we drove to the old mission, in whose shelter Eulalia Perez was born, has lived, and will doubtless be buried.  The church stands in a little purely Spanish settlement of adobe houses, some roofed with thatch, some with fluted red tiles, bound together with thongs of raw hide.  Some little shops hung out Spanish signs, but everything was old and falling to decay, except the chocolate-colored children, the dirtiest and prettiest creatures imaginable, who swarmed in and out of the uneven doorways.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The church itself is old and crumbling to decay, with a sort of sunburned and weary look to it, as if the century of exposure to this fierce heat and the downfall of the padres had disheartened and demoralized it.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Not far distant lay the mission gardens, surrounded by an adobe wall, and from it stretched a long cactus hedge, planted by the old monks to define their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The day of their arrival was made a great <HI REND="italics">fiesta</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The old doors also, oaken and curiously clamped and embossed with iron, were brought from Spain, as were some of the pictures, and other altar ornaments, communion plate, etc.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The keys were brought and we went in, the interior was dusky and venerable, but poor; the windows were high up, small and dusty, the roof unornamented, the floor uneven and decaying; a few bare pews--a modern innovation--and some prie-dieux afforded accommodation for such worshippers as objected to the floor.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Upon the pillars near the door hung tin placards, whose rudely lettered English inscription called a blush <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>"Take off your hats," and "Behave yourself."</P>
115.sgm:<P>The walls were crumbling and cracked, with great red weather-stains, and the aspect of everything mournful and neglected.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Near the chancel were two confessionals, and one smiled to fancy the <HI REND="italics">chronique scandaleuse</HI>
115.sgm:<P>The altar had been in its day rich and handsome, with a great altar-piece in six compartments behind it, and six great wax candles upon it, besides plenty of flowers, vases, and silk and lace hangings.  An adoring cherub in plaster knelt upon a pedestal at either end, and the chancel was decked in the usual style.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We next went to visit the old orchards, still well stocked with the fruits and vines the Sybaritish fathers brought to such perfection, but, like the church and the mission, going slowly and inevitably to decay.</P>
115.sgm:<P>An adobe hut with a red-tiled roof stood just inside, and as we entered, a Mexican woman, with bright blue eyes and a pleasant face, came out to meet us, followed by a padre, with a broad bland face, smoking a cigarette.  Besides these, the hut seemed to contain an indefinite number of children, dogs, and fowls who swarmed in and out during our brief stay.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The padre was from old Spain, and his sixteen years' exile in California had reduced him to an apathetic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:condition, from which he found it hard to rouse himself.  He seemed to take it for granted that I was a compatriot and daughter in the faith, addressing me as <HI REND="italics">hija</HI>
115.sgm:<P>"Was I married?  Yes.  To a Spaniard?  No, to an Anglo-Saxon.  Well, perhaps I had done wisely; he had heard they were generally rich, and kind to their wives, and although they were not of the true faith--yes, perhaps it was as well on the whole."</P>
115.sgm:<P>Having thus satisfied his conscience and curiosity, the padre turned his attention to hospitality and led us round the orchard, followed by the Mexican woman with the lovely blue eyes, who made up for his apathetic reserve by the most amiable and chirrupy volubility imaginable, loading us with oranges and sweet lemons in abundance.  The padre at parting plucking us each a branch of the latter, and an especially fine one for his new-found daughter.</P>
115.sgm:<P>After we were seated in the carriage the Mexican lady's husband came out bringing a sack of oranges for us, and waved off the silver offered to him with true Castilian scorn.</P>
115.sgm:<P>From the Mission we had a short drive back to Santa Anita, and arrived just in time for a hasty toilet before dinner, which was as sumptuous as it was cheerful and home-like.  Indeed nothing could exceed the hospitality and kindness extended to our large party by the courteous master of Santa Anita; from the moment of our arrival, when he surrendered his own elegant apartment <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>One seldom hears Mr. Baldwin's name spoken in the land of his adoption--for he is an Ohioan by birth--without the prefix of "Lucky," and certainly his story would show him to be one of those rare individuals whose touch converts everything into gold.  Perhaps, however, in all such histories one may discern the foundations of "luck" in shrewdness, clear-sightedness, courage, a wise prudence alternating with a wise audacity, and a resolute will.  All these qualities I fancied myself able to read in our host's penetrating eyes and reticent lips, and I think, knowing nothing of him or his career, I should have said, "There is a man who will have the oyster out of this world's shell, let it be closed never so resolutely against him!"</P>
115.sgm:<P>But I would rather after all call him Tasteful than Lucky Baldwin; for an inspection of his hotel, his theatre, and his ranch, must prove him to deserve this title even more distinctly than the other.</P>
115.sgm:<P>After dinner we strolled out for a walk, and straying up the hill, came upon the Chinese huts, outside of which the men were sitting eating bacon and rice with chopsticks.  They were not so clean as those we had been accustomed to see, and the peculiar odor of the Oriental was more pronounced, but they all looked very jolly and comfortable.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Passing on we arrived at the Mexican cabins, and paused for a little conversation, the men speaking broken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>A stately woman, with a black mantilla wound round her head, invited us, with quite an air of condescension, to come in and sit down, and we accepted so far as to step inside the door and look around.  In one corner of the mud floor some hens were peacefully burrowing, a small fire burned in a hole about the centre, the stars peeped through the ragged thatch, and in a dark corner was a dim horror which may have been a bed.  The whole house was as large as a small chamber, and not high enough for a tall man to stand upright; but it was the home of a large family--father, mother, and children.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Outside another house stood its mistress, the prettiest possible Spanish girl with two little children, Juanito and Tomasita--the former a boy four years old, clothed upon with a filthy little shirt reaching to his waist, and opened from the throat, whence it was confined by a providential button.  Tomasita was a thin, brown baby, wearing earrings and a white petticoat, and clinging to her mother's neck.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A great many dark-bearded, grinning men clustered around us as we stood here; but all polite and amiable as the Chinese themselves.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Returning we stopped at the little lake, literally in front of Mr. Baldwin's door, and we were rowed out in his pretty little boat upon its moonlit waters.  The shores were lined with little coves in which the herons and cranes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The next morning, as we sat upon the varanda, a fiery little mustang dashed up the avenue and his rider dismounted at the steps--a handsome man, picturesquely dressed in buckskin, wearing a sombrero, high boots, and great cruel spurs.  This was Fragnani, the artist, who has been living for two years near the Mission, painting local pictures and making studies for future works.</P>
115.sgm:<P>He came to call upon the Chief, and invited us to stop upon our way to Los Angeles at his studio.  The carriages came around and we set forth, Fragnani's fierce little horse cantering along beside us, sometimes dashing far ahead, and returning, and occasionally bucking and curveting as if to give scope for his rider's perfect horsemanship.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Our last sight of the Mission remains an indelible picture in the memory.  The dry, arid plain with the coneshaped purple Mission Hills closing the horizon, the lonely, antique church, still, silent and crumbling to decay, the mossy old orchard with its adobe wall, of cactus, the cluster of little thatched and tiled huts, with two tall palms standing gaunt and dry in the fierce sunshine, a dark grove of orange trees beyond the village, and for all sign of life the artist spurring his diabolical little horse across the plain, or pausing to let us examine the saddle and big stirrups--flaps of stamped leather, and the headstall, bridle, and whip all in one piece of braided and tasselled raw-hide.</P>
115.sgm:<P>On parting with us at Los Angeles, Mr. Fragnani <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>A still more tragic fate awaited a pair of prairie dogs, which with much care and solicitude we brought home from their native heath.  They are not pleasant pets, having sharp teeth which they use on the hand that feeds them whenever they get the chance, and exhaling a rank and acrid odor.  They behaved like saints and martyrs upon the journey, however, eating grass, and never once breaking bounds; but no sooner were they placed upon the ground in Saratoga than they gnawed their way out of their wooden cage and were immediately pursued and killed by the gardener, who took them for another kind of pretty and odorous little beast.</P>
115.sgm:<P>From Mr. Fragnani's and the Mission San Gabriel we drove directly into town, and at the station bade good-by to Mr. Baldwin and the artist, and from thence took train for Santa Monica, the Long Branch of California.</P>
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115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>SANTA MONICA.</P>
115.sgm:<P>THE railway between Los Angeles and Santa Monica is a new one, without connection, but has already, in its two years' existence, paid the cost of its construction.  It is a pretty route, running along by the San Gabriel and Santa Monica mountains, straight down to the sea, where it ends in a pier nearly a mile long running out into the Pacific Ocean.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We passed through estates belonging to a Mexican widow, who is said to own more land than any woman in America.  Buying land is very difficult here on account of the numerous claims in the old Spanish families, who make an infinitude of trouble among American settlers.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We reached Santa Monica about four o'clock.  On the right stands the hotel--two large two-storied buildings, connected by covered piazzas, and containing spacious, neat, and well-furnished rooms, similar to, and quite equal to the same class of accommodations in our best hotels at Long Branch.  At a short distance is a pavilion containing fine bowling alleys, ball-room, rink for skating, etc.</P>
115.sgm:<P>No sooner had we reached the hotel then we left it again, and descending several flights of wooden steps--again reminding us of the famous New Jersey watering-place--made our way to the beach.  These cliffs have the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The beach is soft white sand, without pebbles or shells, but strewn with sea-weed of various colors and kinds.  The sea was calm and blue as a sapphire, and the brown cliffs curved gracefully down to meet it, forming the little Bay of Santa Monica, certainly one of the very prettiest watering-places on any coast.  We wandered up and down the beach until tea-time, and the younger and more romantic portion of the party returned to enjoy it by the light of the just risen full moon.</P>
115.sgm:<P>At the end of the long pier was a little house occupied by a very polite young man, who offered his spy-glass with which to see the buoys far out to sea, upon which the seals do love to congregate.  After a little effort we were able to make out the restless buoys, and the writhing black creatures might have been seals or kelpies for anything we could determine.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Last year a very big seal climbed up the up the cliffs to the hotel, and tried to enter the parlor; he was driven back to the sea with some difficulty, and renewed the attempt on another night, leaving no doubt in any reasonable mind that he was the victim of enchantment, some Tannhauser of the sea, perhaps!</P>
115.sgm:<P>Next morning we drove out over some newly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>A dark, fresh-looking Mexican woman came out to show us the hives, among which we walked quite unharmed by the bees, although some of the more timid of the party accepted a queer transparent covering for the head and face by way of protection from their possible stings.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The hives are boxes, two-stories high, each box fitted up with frames in which the comb is made, and when filled with honey, the frames are taken out and placed in a machine, where they are whirled violently round and the honey thrown out by centrifugal force.  We saw one hive of a small variety and of a bright yellow which are considered very choice.  Among the hives stood barrels of water covered with thin coarse cloth, upon which the bees settle and draw the water through the meshes of the cloth.  We saw no flowers growing near, and could not imagine upon what the bees subsisted, but was told that they will travel miles to find their favorite food.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Time pressing we did not visit any more of the bee-ranches, of which there is an infinite number in this vicinity, but drove back to the hotel and were soon on our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:return trip to Los Angeles, traveling in the private palace car belonging to Senator Jones, and which is a perfect little <HI REND="italics">bijou</HI>
115.sgm:<P>Arrived at Los Angeles we re-embarked on our own car, and began our northward journey.  We reached the Tehachape Pass about dusk, and had an admirable moonlight view of the wild mountain scenery through which the road curves and twists and doubles in a perfectly marvellous manner.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We reached Stockton, the old capital of California in her mining days, in time for breakfast, and as we were to remain about three hours, we took a carriage and drove about the place.  It stands on a flat and sandy plain, and is itself flat and sandy and straggling, with wide streets paved in wood, and fewer handsome houses than in most California towns of its size; almost every house, however, possesses a croquet ground, with an awning over it, and a boarding about six inches high around it to keep the bales within bounds.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We also noticed a great profusion of clipped cedar, and arbor-vit&aelig; trees, and in the suburbs we came across one of the prettiest public gardens we have seen anywhere, laid out with nicely gravelled walks, tall hedges of pinks and lavender, and great colored masses of brilliantly colored flowers.  Trellises covered with passion flower, and other vines, were artfully placed to conceal the boundary walls, and there were tubs for watering fed by whirring windmills close by the little green-house where the plants are started.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Stockton is the location of the State Lunatic Asylum, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Returning to our car, laden with fruits and flowers, we resumed our journey, and about four o'clock reached Sacramento, stopping at the Arcade House, a pleasant hotel with a homelike parlor hung with pictures, and not so stereotyped as most public sitting-rooms.  We went out for a little walk, and explored all the principal streets, which are quite fine, and the one long Chinese shop as good as any we had previously seen.  The houses are all low, on account of the often recurring "shakes," whose effect may be seen in many quarters.  One corner of our hotel had settled considerably, and the window ledges were cracked and sunken in consequence of one of these shakes.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The custom of building iron braces into the walls is a very good safeguard against serious damage, however, and the Arcade is well protected in this manner.</P>
115.sgm:<P>At nine o'clock we were again in our car, and we passed Cape Horn and American Can&tilde;on, with all its magnificent scenery, in the dead hours of the night, waking to find California already become a memory, and our delightful sojourn there a thing of the past.</P>
115.sgm:<P>One last glimpse of its beauties was taken as we dashed past Donner Lake, a beautiful, still, oval sheet of water, bedded deep in the dark, steep hills; then we plunged into a snow-shed, and slid down the steeps of memory into a profound sleep, which made recollection once more reality.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Our next view of the outer world was at Carson, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Some Indians, dirty and squalid, were lounging about, and the squaws begged vociferously, as usual, while the men stood ready to share or monopolize the plunder.</P>
115.sgm:<P>There is a rise of 1,700 feet from Carson to Virginia City, whither we were bound, and the train winds heavily up between mountain walls of dust-brown rock, whereon grows neither tree, shrub, herb, nor blade of grass, nothing with life or motion in it, except the brawling Carson River, which plunges down between these mountains on even a steeper grade than the road winds up.</P>
115.sgm:<P>All along the hills were little burrowed holes, with heaps of powdery, gray earth beside them, where was, or had been a man prospecting for gold, and nearly all the country was marked out with stakes, showing the claims of the different miners or companies.</P>
115.sgm:<P>In a hollow by the river we passed a quartz mill, and saw what is called the "tailing" process going on, in which the refuse washings of the ore are passed over a stretched blanket, to which the particles of gold adhere and are saved.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The twistings, and curvings, and tunnellings, and climbings of the road grew more and more pronounced, until one looked at last for some such arrangement as that at Mount Washington, where the car wheels are fitted with cogs to grasp each inch of the rail, and the traveller feels <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The distance in a straight line from Carson to Virginia City is about fifteen miles, but by the windings of the road this is more than triplicated.</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CUTTING BARK AND CONES AS MEMENTOES OF THE MARIPOSA GROVE. Page 245.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>VIRGINIA CITY AND THE BIG BONANZA.</P>
115.sgm:<P>To call a place dreary, desolate, homeless, uncomfortable, and wicked is a good deal, but to call it God-forsaken is a good deal more, and in a tolerably large experience of this world's wonders, we never found a place better deserving the title than Virginia City.</P>
115.sgm:<P>To commence with, the conditions of its being are highly disagreeable, for it is a town hooked on, as it were, to the precipitous side of a barren aud rocky mountain, and one is always apprehensive that the adhesive power may become exhausted, and the whole place go sliding down to the depths of the valley below.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The streets are mere narrow terraces built along the face of this precipice, like the vineyards along the Rhine, or the steps of the Pyramids, whose arid and dusty desolation they also imitate, without the grandeur and mystery which make one forget the rest.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Leaving the station we climbed a steep and long flight of wooden steps to the street above, where stood the hotel, a very good one, by the way, and flanked by some substantial stone and brick buildings, but this block is the exception in the way of architecture, the rule being frame houses, as loosely and carelessly put together as a child's card house.  The style may be inferred perhaps from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Nowhere does one find a level, the streets are all parallel, with the exception of one, leading up the mountain from the depot, and standing in any of them, one looks off as if from a belfry, across the tops of the houses below, and over the chimneys of quartz mills and mining works still lower down, until vision loses itself among the crowding brown peaks and waving mountain ranges, never coming to any resting point of level or of greenery, before the horizon line closes the dreary scene.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Prince of the Power of Air reigns supreme in this region, and the fierce cold wind sweeps through the narrow streets with force enough to take one off one's feet.  Very little rain falls here, but plenty of snow, coming early and remaining late, indeed possible in any month of the year, and sometimes lying there three feet deep in May, in which jocund month we were there.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Virginia City boasts of forty-nine gambling saloons and one church, open the day we were there for a funeral, an event of frequent occurrence in the lawless little city.  The population is largely masculine, very few women, except of the worst class, and as few children.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Chinese are rare, not being in favor with the miners, who have a horror of their cheap labor, and show their dislike in very vigorous fashion when the opportunity occurs.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The hotel has been running only a few months, but is very comfortable, with a pretty parlor and handsome <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Here we were received by Mr. Taylor, the Superintendent, and one of the most courteous and attentive of men, who invited us first to his own charming bachelor apartments in the mill building, and then took us all over the works and showed us the entire process of this sort of gold and silver mining; first, the cages running night and day hauling up the masses of quartz rock, which the miners, far below, have picked and shovelled out of its natural bed; then the crushing of the quartz, and its agglomeration with water in the great vats, into a dingy lead-colored pudding; then the amalgam mixed with quicksilver pouring out into iron vessels, in which it is taken to the crucibles, the quicksilver eliminated, and recondensed for farther service, the residuum of metal--gold and silver ore--run into bars and stamped.</P>
115.sgm:<P>We saw machinery enough to drive one crazy, and were almost suffocated with its hot, oily smell and steam, besides being deafened by the stamping and banging and crashing of the quartz-crushing machines which keep that whole section of the building in a state of jar and quiver, like an impending earthquake.</P>
115.sgm:<P>In another portion of the edifice we saw the pumps <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Postponing any farther investigations until the morrow, we left the mills and drove about the city, seeing little more, however, than has already been described, returned to the hotel for dinner, and after a while strolled out to see what changes might have been wrought by night and moonlight.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The changes were noticeable but not beautifying, and the two policemen, who followed close at our heels, were by no means a guard of ceremony but a most necessary protection.  Every other house was a drinking or gambling saloon, and we passed a great many brilliantly lighted windows, where sat audacious looking women who freely chatted with passers-by or entertained guests within.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Cheyenne did not seem to us to deserve its mournful sobriquet, and Virginia City equally did seem to deserve, although it has not received it.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The next morning we walked to the assaying office, to see the gold and silver taken from the crucibles in which they are finally purified, and we subsequently returned to the Bonanza or California Mine, the chief and some others of the party having resolved to explore its depths.</P>
115.sgm:<P>This mine is principally owned by Messrs. Flood &amp; O'Brien, and Mr. Fair.  The two former kept a small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>Mr. Fair, although equally rich, resides on the spot, and passes three hours daily down in the mine, personally superintending its operations.  The receipts for this mine during fifteen months, were $24,850,524.85--and for over a year it has divided a million monthly, with no signs of exhaustion.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Mr. Fair took us first to the large long room where the miners change their clothes, and which was hung closely all around from the roof with miners' shirts and trousers, while on a long frame down the middle of the place stood their big, heavy shoes or brogans.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The men are divided into gangs, each working eight hours, and each gang having its division of this room, and every man his own especial hook, where he keeps his mining suit not in wear, it being necessary to change thoroughly every time they come out of the mine.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The men are mostly Cornish--no Irish and no Chinese allowed.  The owners would like to employ the latter, but the Miners' Union is too strong for them, dictating eight hours a day as the period for labor, wages of four dollars per diem, and no competition.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>The miners embrace every class of men, socially speaking, from the lowest grade of laborer to the ex-United States Senator, or man of title, obliged to resort to manual labor, and too proud to perform it in open daylight, preferring to pass his existence in digging living graves 1,700 feet below the surface of the earth.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Returning to the shaft, we encountered a party of miners just dressed to go down, having changed their clothes in the little office near the mouth of the pit.  They looked very wild and strange in their great solid hats, like roofs, stiff enough to protect the head from falling bits of rock, their uncouth clothes and great brogans, each man carrying a lantern in his hand.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Nine men crowd upon the elevator at once, and at a given signal go dashing down into the hot, white steam, disappearing in a moment, absolutely swallowed up in the earth.  The place swarmed with miners waiting their turn to go down, the elevator making its trip in about fifteen minutes.</P>
115.sgm:<P>A set came up while we stood looking after those who had gone down the other shaft, and such a set of ghosts one never saw: pale, exhausted, dripping with water and perspiration, some with their shirts torn off and naked to the waist, all of them haggard and dazed with the long darkness and toil.  The heat in the shaft is fearful, and although the galleries are cooler, it is still so warm that the men are obliged to work half naked, sometimes wholly so, and word is always sent down when ladies are about to visit the mine.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Presently the chief, with the "forlorn hope," who had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>A sudden thrill of vague horror, however, superseded all disposition to laughter as the car swiftly and suddenly took our friends from our very midst, leaving only the black shaft with its ghostly clouds of hot, white steam to show where they had been.  It was too much like that other dark and mysterious pit into which most of us have watched our friends go down to return no more, and I for one turned away shuddering and afeard.</P>
115.sgm:<P>The party remained below two hours, and returned tired, excited, delighted, and loquacious, to find us comfortably settled in Mr. Taylor's room, dispelling our anxiety as best we might by selections from our host's numberless volumes of our favorite poets.</P>
115.sgm:<P>So soon as our friends had bathed--for the directors have a private bath and dressing-room, which had been placed at the disposal of our party--and resumed their usual attire, and we had bidden good-by to our courteous hosts of the Big Bonanza Mine, we returned to the hotel, dined, and then drove to our car in the midst of a drenching rain, almost an unknown phenomenon in Virginia City, and looked our last upon the bare, brown hills and the city in the air through vertical sheets of drifting waters.</P>
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115.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIII.</HEAD>
115.sgm:<P>HOMEWARD BOUND.</P>
115.sgm:<P>AT Ogden we resumed our Pullman car and settled ourselves in most luxurious manner just in time for breakfast.  The rain still fell, but less furiously, and finally departed just in time to allow us to enjoy the glories of Weber's Can&tilde;on.</P>
115.sgm:<P>At Green River we stopped for twenty minutes, and got out to see some newly-caught California lions, romping and snarling in their cages on the platform.</P>
115.sgm:<P>An editorial party from Nebraska were on board with a small press, on which they printed the daily journal of their travels.  We went forward to return their visits, and in order to do so had to pass through two or three sleeping-cars closely packed, and an emigrant-car where, by the dull light, we could see the poor creatures curled and huddled up in heaps for the night, with no possibility of lying down comfortably; but men, women, bundles, baskets, and babies, in one promiscuous heap.</P>
115.sgm:<P>During the darkness of the night we recrossed the Rockies, missing all the magnificent scenery we had so enjoyed on the outward trip.  We made a little reconnaissance of Cheyenne, but found it this time quite deserted; not a scout nor an emigrant to be seen.</P>
115.sgm:<P>There was a beautiful red sunset as we passed the buttes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CALIFORNIA OR MOUNTAIN LIONS AT GREEN RIVER STATION.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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115.sgm:<P>The next day and the next we travelled without stopping, passing through Omaha and Chicago, and on the following we reached Detroit, pausing for a day to look about the fine city and see our old friend Senator Chandler, who took us to drive behind his superb span of horses, and to visit his elegant yacht--a fine sea-going craft.  We passed a portion of the evening at his magnificent and tasteful home, and the day following found ourselves back in Gotham--a couple of months older than when we left it for the Golden Gate, and years older and incalculably richer in novel and charming experiences and grateful memories of the hospitality and courtesy extended to us, and the new friends who had treated us as old friends, and had gained in our recollection a place which time will never obliterate.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>As <HI REND="italics">l'envoi</HI>
115.sgm:, I can say no more and no less than this to all the dear public who year by year wander up and down the earth seeking and not always finding delight, and expending money, which by no means always brings its <HI REND="italics">pro quid</HI>
115.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
115.sgm:<illus entity="a115-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FAITHFUL FOLLETTE.</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<BACK><DIV><AD><P>1878.<HSEP>1878.</P>
115.sgm:<P>G.W. CARLETON &amp; CO.</P>
115.sgm:<P>NEW BOOKS</P>
115.sgm:<P>AND NEW EDITIONS, RECENTLY ISSUED BY</P>
115.sgm:<P>G. W. CARLETON &amp; CO., Publishers,</P>
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115.sgm:<P>The Publishers, on receipt of price, will send any book on this Catalogue by mail, <HI REND="italics">postage free</HI>
115.sgm:<P>All books in this list [unless otherwise specified] are handsomely bound in cloth board binding, with gilt backs suitable for libraries.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Mary J. Holmes' Works.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Tempest and Sunshine<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>English Orphans<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Homestead on the Hillside<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>'Lena Rivers<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Meadow Brook<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Dora Deane<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Cousin Maude<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Marian Grey<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Edith Lyle<HSEP>(New)<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Darkness and Daylight<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Hugh Worthington<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Cameron Pride<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Rose Mather<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Ethelyn's Mistake<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Millbank<HSEP>1 50</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Marion Harland's Works.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Alone<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Hidden Path<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Moss Side<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Nemesis<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Miriam<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>At Last<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Helen Gardner<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>True as Steel<HSEP>(New)<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Sunnybank<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Husbands and Homes<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Ruby's Husband<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Phemie's Temptation<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Empty Heart<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Jessamine<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>From My Youth Up<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>My Little Love<HSEP>(New)<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Charles Dickens--15 Vols.--"Carleton's Edition."</P>
115.sgm:<P>Pickwick, and Catalogue<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Dombey and Son<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Bleak House<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Martin Chuzzlewit<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Barnaby Rudge--Edwin Drood<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Child's England--Miscellaneous<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>David Copperfield<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Nicholas Nickleby<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Little Dorrit<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Our Mutual Friend<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Curiosity Shop--Miscellaneous<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Sketches by Boz--Hard Times<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Christmas Books--and--A Tale of Two Cities<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Oliver Twist--and--The Uncommercial Traveler<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Great Expectations--and--Pictures of Italy and America<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Sets of Dickens' Complete Works, in 15 vols.--[elegant half calf bindings]<HSEP>50 00</P>
115.sgm:<P>Augusta J. Evans' Novels.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Beulah<HSEP>$1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>Macaria<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>Inez<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>St. Elmo<HSEP>$2 00</P>
115.sgm:<P>Vashti<HSEP>2 00</P>
115.sgm:<P>Infelice<HSEP>(New)<HSEP>2 00</P>
115.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
115.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
115.sgm:<P>May Agnes Fleming's Novels.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Guy Earlscourt's Wife<HSEP>$1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>A Terrible Secret<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>Norine's Revenge<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>Silent and True--(New)<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>A Wonderful Woman<HSEP>$1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>A Mad Marriage<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>One Night's Mystery<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>Kate Danton<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>M. Michelet's Works.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Love (L'Amour)--Translation<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Woman (La Femme)--Translation<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Miriam Coles Harris.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Rutledge<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Frank Warrington<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Louie's Last Term, etc<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Richard Vandermarck<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Sutherlands<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>St. Philip's<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Round Hearts, for Children<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>A Perfect Adonis--(New)<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Italian Novels.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Beatrice Cenci--By Guerrazzi<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Julie P. Smith's Novels.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Widow Goldsmith's Daughter<HSEP>$1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>Chris and Otho<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>Ten Old Maids<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>His Young Wife--(New)<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Widower<HSEP>$1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Married Belle<HSEP>1 75</P>
115.sgm:<P>Courting and Farming<HSEP>1 75</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Les Miserables--In English<HSEP>$2 50</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Captain Mayne Reid.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>The Rifle Rangers<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>The War Trail<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Wood Rangers<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Wild Huntress<HSEP>1 50</P>
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115.sgm:<P>The Hunter's Feast<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Wild Life<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Osceola, the Seminole<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Artemus Ward.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Complete Comic Writings--With Biography, Portrait, and 50 Illustrations<HSEP>$2 00</P>
115.sgm:<P>A. S. Roe's Select Stories.</P>
115.sgm:<P>True to the Last<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Star and the Cloud<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>How Could He Help It?<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>A Long Look Ahead<HSEP>$1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>I've Been Thinking<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>To Love and to be Loved<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>Charles Dickens.</P>
115.sgm:<P>Child's History of England--Carleton's New " <HI REND="italics">School Edition</HI>
115.sgm:."  Illustrated.<HSEP>$1 25</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Tom's Wife--By G. D. Tallman<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>That Comic Primer--By Frank Bellew<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>That Awful Boy<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>That Bridget of Ours<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>Our Artist in Cuba, etc. G. W. Carleton<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>Why Wife and I Quarreled<HSEP></P>
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115.sgm:<P>That Horrid Girl<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>Me--July and August.  By Mrs. S. C. Coe<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>He and I--Sarah B. Stebbins<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>Annals of a Baby--  do<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>That Charming Evening--Bellew<HSEP></P>
115.sgm:<P>Mrs. Hill's Cook Book.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Hand-Books of Society.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>The Art of Conversation--For those who wish to be agreeable talkers     1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>The Arts of Writing, Reading, and Speaking--For self-improvement<HSEP>1 50</P>
115.sgm:<P>New Diamond Edition--Small size, elegantly bound, 3 volumes in a box<HSEP>3 00</P>
115.sgm:<P>Carleton's Popular Quotations.</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Robinson Crusoe--Griset's Illus.<HSEP>$1 00</P>
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115.sgm:<P>Don Quixote--Dore's Illus.<HSEP>$1 00</P>
115.sgm:<P>Swiss Family Robinson--Marcel<HSEP>1 00</P>
115.sgm:<P>Josh Billings.</P>
115.sgm:<P>His Complete Writings--With Biography, steel portrait, and 100 illustrations<HSEP>$2 00</P>
115.sgm:<P>Trump Cards--Illustrated<HSEP>25</P>
115.sgm:<P>Farmer's Alminax--Illustrated<HSEP>25</P>
116.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-116</TITLE>
116.sgm:<TITLE>The Gregson memoirs, containing Mrs. Eliza Gregson's "Memory" and the statement of James Gregson ...: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
116.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
116.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
116.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
116.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
116.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
116.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
116.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
116.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>40-33553</LCCN>
116.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
116.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
116.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<P><illus entity="a116-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JAMES AND ELIZA GREGSON<LB>From a photograph taken in Petaluma about 1860</P>
116.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<P>THE GREGSON</P>
116.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS</P>
116.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">CONTAINING</HI>
116.sgm:<P>MRS. ELIZA GREGSON'S</P>
116.sgm:<P>"MEMORY"</P>
116.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">AND THE</HI>
116.sgm:<P>STATEMENT</P>
116.sgm:<P>OF JAMES GREGSON</P>
116.sgm:<P>REPRINTED FROM</P>
116.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA HISTORICAL SOCIETY QUARTERLY</P>
116.sgm:<P>VOLUME XIX  NO. 2  JUNE 1940</P>
116.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>1</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<HEAD>The Gregson Memoirs</HEAD>
116.sgm:<P>JAMES AND ELIZA MARSHALL GREGSON, California pioneers of 1845, both left manuscript recollections covering, principally, the years 1845-50.  The dictated  "Statement of James Gregson" was sent by Robert A. Thompson, editor of the Sonoma <HI REND="italics">Democrat</HI>
116.sgm:<P>In 1880, a <HI REND="italics">History of Sonoma County</HI>
116.sgm:<P>Feeling that the pioneer women had been neglected by the historians, Mrs. Gregson proceeded to write her own "Memory."  This she did on the blank sides of old bill-heads, letters, and other scraps of paper.  It was preserved and copied by her daughter, Mrs. Eliza Butler, and is printed here with Mrs. Butler's permission and through the courtesy of her son, Dr. Chester Gregson Butler.  Dr. Butler has been assisted in annotating the manuscript by members of the editorial staff.  A few parts of the original document have  been lost, but the missing portions have been supplied from the copy.</P>
116.sgm:<P>To those interested in the history of the period, Mrs. Gregson's account will be of even more value than her husband's.  Here is to be found a rare, detailed record of everyday life written by a pioneer woman.  Her "Memory" begins with her life in England and includes her journey to the United States, her marriage, the hardships of the overland journey to California in 1845, the births, sicknesses, and deaths of her children, her husband's work for Sutter, the delightful Indian custom of skinning a coyote alive, the use of cow manure broth to break her husband's fever, the terrible experiences of the Donner party, incidents connected with the conquest of California, the discovery of gold and the resultant rush, the establishment of a home in Sonoma, and many other experiences known only to the pioneer woman.</P>
116.sgm:<P>James Gregson's "Statement" follows the general outline of his wife's account but gives fewer family details.  A fair amount of attention is given to his experiences as a soldier, his land warrant for service, and his work with James Wilson Marshall, the discoverer of gold.</P>
116.sgm:<P>Of the two manuscripts, the "Statement" is the better written, probably because it was dictated to Thompson.  Since it is a transcription and not Gregson's own writing, the spelling and punctuation have occasionally been corrected.  In Mrs. Gregson's "Memory," however, the original spelling has been preserved, but in a few instances the paragraphing has been changed.</P>
116.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Mrs. Gregson's "Memory"</HEAD>
116.sgm:<P>I was Born in the city of manchester [England] 1824 on the 15 of march lived there untill I was about 4 years old, &amp; then went to A place calld Stockport.  afterwards moved into derbyshire where we lived untill I was about 13 years.  my memory ofton gose back to my childhood years at that place.  wich was named pleasley.  the people were old fashened &amp; kind &amp; many of them had lived there ever since they were born  some of them were over 100 years old.  majority were staunch Methodists.  I always thought they were the most contented &amp; happy christian people I have ever seen in all my ramblings through life.</P>
116.sgm:<P>my parents [John and Anna Hughes Marshall] where both born in the north of england.  my father was a man fond of company.  &amp; he was a good maschinist &amp; made money fast but the worst of it was could spend it as fast, while liveing at that place he made the acquaintince of some young noblemen &amp; he learned to gamble as well as any of them which soon made my mother complain &amp; so things went on from bad to worse untill we had to leave &amp; come back to the north of derbyshire &amp; we came to the city of manchester where we staid for a few months then moved back into the country to a place called by the name bugsworth among the coal mines &amp; lime kilns where my father started a cotton factory for manufactering   of very fine stocking yarn.  but fates were against him &amp; he failed.  &amp; to make matters worse he endorst a note for a man, &amp; the man left him to pay it.  so my father got togather all the money he had &amp; left by the underground railroad for America leaveing myself my mother 3 brothers &amp; one sister my eldest brother 14 years old &amp; he a very delicaket boy, myself 12 years &amp; the rest of the children younger and to small to do much work according to laws of engilsh laws every thing was sold under the hamer, my mother thought she would try &amp; save some good blankets  to cover herself &amp; children.  &amp; to do so she told me to take them when the bumbailifs were absent and hide them in the top of the dary house chimnys  that house was built on the side of a hill.  the front faced the Valley &amp; the dary wass partly under ground.  by some means we were suspected &amp; they found them &amp; they    were sold at auction leaveing us almost destitute</P>
116.sgm:<P>we then moved to a town called hayfield where my Brothers &amp; myself got employment in a cotton factory.  &amp; we had to get furniture &amp; beding for we had nothing.  think of it californians where there are no factory bells to call you out at 5 oclock A.M. &amp; work untill about 8 P.M. with sometimes milk &amp; other times treakle &amp; oat meal much [mush] 3 times a day.  notwithstanding all this we got along very well.  about this time my mothers sisters husband died in manchester &amp; she with her two daughters came &amp; made there home with us.</P>
116.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<P>in the spring of 1839 my father paid our passage in New York.  &amp; we came across the occain my Aunts family with us.  &amp; we settled in the town of pawtucket R.I.  &amp; we lived there untill I was 19 years old when a young englishman [James Gregson] who used to live neighbors to us when I was a little child came to see us.  in the spring of 1843 &amp; we were maried the next 20 of october.</P>
116.sgm:<P>so from being a weaver in the cotton factory &amp; my husaband a blacksmith &amp; boiler maker, we turned our thoughts westword, We lived at his fathers house in philidelphia that winter &amp; in the spring of 1844 we started leaveing all behind with just 18 dollers in 10 cents peices.  Oh what a big lot of money to travle to illinois with  we were young and detirmined to make a liveing away from the cotton shops.  my husaband was not very stout &amp; I thought that his trade was more than [he] could stand many years longer &amp; that was the main spring to our proceedings.</P>
116.sgm:<P>Well there was to much fever &amp; auger [ague] &amp; we could not stand that.  we could make a good living if we could only keep from shaking.  so missfortuns seldom come alone.  We had a sweet little babe born to us on the 26 of septembe[r] 1844.  only to stay 3 months &amp; then he died &amp; we laid him away in the grave hopeing to meet again when our time on earth is past.  again to[o] my father &amp; mother had not lived agreeable &amp; my mother &amp; two Brothers &amp; sister came to [Rock Island County] illinoise in the fall of 1844 &amp; we all lived in a cabbin where there was holes in the sides that you could throw you hat through if you wished to.  was it any wonder that we were sick or that our babe died.  but there was no help for it.  we were geting poorer every day.</P>
116.sgm:<P>so in the spring of 1845 we made what preparations we could all of us together &amp; started for oragon.  there was a great deal of talk about that country that we could get homes if we would settle on the land &amp; that there was a big lot of land for A man, &amp;  A lot I forget how much for his wife &amp; for each child if they<HSEP>would settle there  Well we thought that was a good thing &amp; away we started very poorly suplied in April 1845.  it was estamated that it would take us 6 months so we accordingly laid in provisions enough for the trip.  that is we thought we had but we were mistaken.  We had 3 yoak of good cattle &amp; one good wagon for 6 persons &amp; our party<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">The party evidently consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Gregson,   John, Henry, and Mary Ann Marshall (Mrs. Gregson's brothers  and sister), and Mrs. Ann Marshall (her mother).  The passenger has not been definitely identified.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>We had as good traveling as could be expected for people that was fresh from the city &amp; as green as the grass in the feilds.  from my childhood I allways loved to milk so sometimes we used to  milk the cows as they [were] feeding on the [grass] along the road.    that was before we left the settlements  after that we fared rather   </P>
116.sgm:<P>hard.  for traveling made us very hearty.  nothing of espesial interest accord [occurred] untill we arived at fort Hall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<P>when we were a little this side of fort hall on snake river the provisions being rather low &amp; the cattle being poor, myself &amp; hussband we left our little party &amp; got in with a man by the name of [Elijah] bristow<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">Elijah Bristow was a Kentuckian who came overland to Sutter's Fort in 1845 and went to Oregon the next year, where he died in 1872.  Hubert Howe Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
116.sgm: (San Francisco, 1884-90), II, 730.  John Henry Brown states that Bristow (whom he calls Bristol) was one of the group who, as the    end of the journey approached, left their teams and went ahead on horseback.  In this group he includes also Blackburn, Snyder, McDougal, and Knight.  John Henry Brown, <HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of Early Days of San Francisco (1845-50</HI>
116.sgm: ) (San Francisco: The Grabhorn Press [1933], p. 12.  Bristow is mentioned in the <HI REND="italics">New Helvetia Diary, a Record of Events Kept by John A. Sutter and His Clerks</HI>
116.sgm: (San Francisco: The Grabhorn Press, 1939), on pp. 10, 15, 32, and 34.  (This work is hereafter cited as <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<P>We traveled on a day or so &amp; came across a party of emagrants bound for Callifornia &amp; they were looking for recurits [recruits] so we joined their company wich was about 40 wagons in all<ANCHOR ID="n2-3">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: they had an old man by the name of Greenwood<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: for A pilot for the road was new &amp; was but little known to any but the trapers.  it was on this road the indians were very bad.  When we came to marys river [the Humboldt] they began to molest us.<ANCHOR ID="n2-5">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: Sometimes when we were in camp in the evening our cattle would come runing into the Corrail with arrows sticking in their sides &amp; most of them died  one evening a pretty young  hefeir came in with 2 or 3 arrows in her flesh so that she died &amp; a doctor [Carter] in the company put some stricknine in the heifers meat &amp; left it for the indians to eat,<ANCHOR ID="n2-6">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3">Henry Marshall, "Reminiscences of a Pioneer," in <HI REND="italics">The  Pioneer</HI>
116.sgm:, San Jose, August 10, 1878, states that he "left Independence for Oregon with Captain Welch and one hundred and twenty-nine wagons, and perhaps five hundred persons.  We divided first into three companies, and then split into small parties.   I came on the way as far as Fort Hall with Welch."  This was undoubtedly Dr. Presley Welch who was captain of the train piloted by Stephen H. L. Meek and of which Joel Palmer was a member.  See Joel Palmer, <HI REND="italics">Journal of Travels over the Rocky Mountains to the Mouth of the Columbia River</HI>
116.sgm: (Cincinnati, 1847), p. 16.  Palmer and Welch went on to Oregon, but, Marshall writes, "at Fort Hall a train was made up for California and I joined it.  The Hudsons [David and William], Elliots [William B. Elliott] and [Michael] Coleman for whom Coleman Valley is named, joined also, with P. McChristian and James Gregson."  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., IV, 576-86, divides the 1845 overland immigration to California roughly into five parties: the Swasey-Todd (or Snyder-Blackburn) company; a company of fifteen men under William L. Sublette; the     Grigsby-Ide company; Fre&acute;mont's exploring expedition; and a party under Lansford W. Hastings.  The Gregsons, Marshalls, Elliott,  Coleman and McChristian he assigns to the Grigsby-Ide party.  Yet Gregson himself, in his "Statement" which we print hereafter, records that "near Fort Hall we fell in with Jacob R. Snyder and Judge Blackburn who were traveling with pack horses, they came on with us<HSEP>Geo. McDougal<HSEP>joined us at Fort Hall and also Knight from whom Knights Valley is named"; and Bancroft states that these men came with the Swasey-Todd party which left the Grigsby-Ide company at Fort Hall.  William F. Swasey, <HI REND="italics">The Early Days and Men of California</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">"At Fort Hall we were met by an old man named Caleb Greenwood and his three sons; John was 22, Britain 18, and Sam 16.  Caleb Greenwood, who originally hailed from Nova Scotia, was an old mountain man and was said to be over 80 years old.  He had been a scout and trapper and had married a squaw, his sons being half breeds.  He was employed by Captain Sutter to come to Fort Hall to divert the Oregon-bound emigrants to California<HSEP>He called the Oregon emigrants together the first evening we were in Fort Hall and made a talk.  He said the road to Oregon was dangerous on account of the Indians.  He told us that while no emigrants had as yet gone to California, there was an easy grade and crossing the mountains would not be difficult.  He said that Capt. Sutter would have ten Californians meet the emigrants who would go and that Sutter would supply them with plenty of potatoes, coffee and dried beef.  He also said he would help the emigrants over the mountains with their wagons and that to every head of a family who would settle near Sutter's Fort, Captain Sutter would give six  sections of land of his Spanish land grant<HSEP><HSEP>"After driving southward for three days with Caleb Greenwood, he left us to go back to Fort Hall to get other emigrants to change their route to California.  He left his three boys with us to guide us to Sutter's Fort<HSEP>"  Fred Lockley, <HI REND="italics">Across the Plains by Prairie Schooner: Personal Narrative of B. F. Bonney</HI>
116.sgm: (Eugene, Ore.: Koke-Tiffany Co. [1923]), pp. 3-5; also quoted in Charles Kelly, <HI REND="italics">Old Greenwood: The Story of Caleb Greenwood</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-5">The biographical note on James Gregson in the <HI REND="italics">History of Sonoma County</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-6">Snyder states that it was a young steer and that was poisoned on September 8 by "a Dr. Carter traveling with us."  "The Diary of Jacob R. Snyder," in <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
116.sgm: of The Society of California Pioneers, VIII (December 1931), p. 252.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>at last we came to the Sierra Navada Mountains which seemed insurmountable  it wass some time before we could see which way we must go, at last we had to take the wagons apart &amp; take them up in peieces over the mountains &amp; the poor cattle got ove[r] or rather they were draged up with bleeding shines [shins].  the folks got ove[r] as best they could &amp; reached the summit &amp; rested two days.  next traveled another day &amp; camped on the banks of a beautiful lake &amp; I think it was lake taho<ANCHOR ID="n2-7">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: that night while all the camp was asleep we were awakened by A very loud noise &amp; trembling of the ground.  which proceedid from one of the campers had A barrill (was caused by the explosion of a keg of Powder in the wagon belonging to Jacob R. Snyder and Co.<ANCHOR ID="n2-8">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-7">Undoubtedly Donner Lake.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-8">See Note 3.  Knight says that he, with McDougal and Snyder, left the party at the Truckee River and went on to Sutter's Fort.  Returning to meet his party on the summit, he found that his wagon and other property had been burned by the explosion of a keg of powder.  Thomas Knight, "Early Events" (MS in Bancroft Library), pp. 3-4; also Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., IV, 577.  Mrs. Sarah E. Healy, William B. Ide's daughter, also tells of the explosion in [Simeon Ide], <HI REND="italics">A Biographical Sketch of the Life of William B. Ide</HI>
116.sgm:<P>Well we still kept up the march day after day, ever watching and looking for the promised land.  after many days myself with some other young folks climbed up a very steep mountain and there standing under a Manzinita bush we saw the valley below streaching far and wide like an ocean.  it looked beautiful to us, for we were tired and weary of the mountains, but we were still 3 or 4 days travel from it.  At length we arrived at Johnsons ranch on Bear river<ANCHOR ID="n2-9">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: from there to Sutters fort on the Sacramento river,<ANCHOR ID="n2-10">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: a part of our company went south to San Jose and others to Sonoma.  Our family went to whip sawing for captain Sutter, on the Mocosomy [Cosumnes] about 50 miles south east of the fort.<ANCHOR ID="n2-11">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: There we staid until the 24 of December 1845 when we returned.)<ANCHOR ID="n2-12a">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-9">Johnson's ranch (where the town of Wheatland now stands), on the north side of Bear River, in Yuba County, was the first settlement reached by the immigrants who came by way of Donner's Pass and down the San Juan Ridge, or the ridge north of Bear River, into Yuba County.  The land was purchased at auction by William Johnson after the death of Pablo Gutierrez, in 1844, to whom the land had been granted earlier that same year.  Hero Eugene Rensch, Ethel Grace Rensch, and Mildred Brooke Hoover, <HI REND="italics">Historic Spots in California--Valley and Sierra Counties</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-10">Henry Marshall, in his "Reminiscences" (see Note 3), states that they reached Sutter's Fort on October 20, 1845, but the <HI REND="italics">History of Sonoma County</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-11">On Saturday, October 25, "Sutter sent two Waggons to Pine woods, Gregson and Marshall also went to the P. woods."   <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-12a  n2-12b n2-12c  n2-12d n2-12e">The material inserted within the marks () has been taken from the copy made by Mrs. Butler, that part of the original manuscript having been lost.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<P>on the 25 of december 1845 two men by names of harry trow<ANCHOR ID="n2-13">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; Ned Robetson<ANCHOR ID="n2-14">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: both english men who had been sailors  they had been working with our men whiping sawing  they came to us bringing with them An englishman by name hardy.<ANCHOR ID="n2-15">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-13">Henry Trow is mentioned several times in the <HI REND="italics">N. H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:, beginning with September 18, 1845.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-14">According to Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., V, 698-99, Edward Robinsin was an American sailor who is said to have touched at Monterey in 1830 and to have "coasted off and on" for ten years; he then settled in the Sacramento Valley.  In 1847 he married Mrs. Christina Patterson and lived on Dry Creek, San Joaquin County, but went to the mines for a while in 1848.  He is mentioned frequently  in the <HI REND="italics">N. H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-15">Thomas M. Hardy was in California as early as 1843 when he was granted the rancho Rio de Jesus Maria on the Sacramento River near the mouth of Cache Creek.  In 1844 he was a carpenter and translator in the Sonoma district, was in the mines in 1848, and in 1848 or 1849 was drowned in Suisun Bay, Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., III, 775.  He is mentioned many times in the <HI REND="italics">N. H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<P>one eveing in ganuary the later part of that month it had been rainging very hard &amp; we were siting around our fire which was built in the middle of our wigwam Gregson &amp; trow sitting at sort of a table playing some sort of a game to pass away the time myself &amp; Mr hardy sitting by the fire converseing about england &amp; our native towns.  he said that he was born at runcorn &amp; that his father &amp; mother lived there.  I told him the cercumstances in the year 1839 when our family were starting for the United Stats.   our mothers thought it best for we elder children to go to mancheter   [Manchester] on sunday &amp; they would come on the railroad &amp; meet us on monday morning on the New baily bridge.  monday moring came but no Mothers  so we 5 children the eldest about 16 years old we concluded to start &amp; did so.  we arrived at runcorn in the eveing.  after taking our lugage on the bank &amp; not knowing where to go.  there was an old man standing there  he was tall &amp; gray   headed  a little peice from there was a long boat house &amp; one dewling [dwelling] house.  standing in the doorway was an elderly lady.  in a few minuts she came towards us &amp; asked what are you doing here where is your parents?  We told her all about it.   When the tears started &amp; ran down her cheeks &amp; turning to her hussband she said we must take these children in somebody may do as much for ours  my coussan Sarah said have you children gone from home  She answered we have one son gone away now  You must come to my house &amp; have your supper &amp; ly down untill 12 oclock to night &amp; then I will awake you &amp; see you safe on the steam packet bound for liverpool.  as soon as I had concluded hardy sprang up &amp; exclaimed that is my father &amp; mother.  our conversation frequently turned on the same subject.</P>
116.sgm:<P>hardy &amp; trow could not agree so after a short time they quarled &amp; trow left &amp; we could get nothing so we left &amp; came back to the fort  the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:agreement papers between them  &amp; us were in Captain Sutters possesions &amp; they where at the hawk farm<ANCHOR ID="n2-16">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-16">Hock Farm, on the Feather River, named for a tribe of Indians living in the vicinity, was part of the New Helvetia grant of eleven leagues, which Sutter had obtained in 1841.  There he kept large herds of horses, cattle, and sheep, and, after his fort was sold in 1849, went there himself to live.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>So in the latter part of April 1846 we returned to the fort &amp; my husaband worked for Capt Sutter somtimes in the blacksmith shop &amp; sometimes diging ditches for they had no fences around the farm.  &amp; there was no work for woman excepting a little cooking &amp; very little at that.  &amp; our cloathes we had to patch untill the original peice could scarcely be found.  our men worked for 1 dollar per day.  &amp; common dress goods $1 per yard.  so it took $8 to buy 1 dress &amp; our food was very coarse flour &amp; sometimes pretty good beef  no coffee or tea or sugar or Milk or butter.  the flour being unbolted acted on us the same as medicen &amp; making very bad work.</P>
116.sgm:<P>in 1846 the United States &amp; me[x]ico went to war.  &amp; the war extended of course to Call [California].  in the early part of the year 1846 my husband inlistid in freemonts [Fre&acute;mont's] batalion as a volantere  he was stationed at the fort during that summer.<ANCHOR ID="n2-17">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-17">The "Pay Roll of the Garrison at Fort Sacramento"  (MS No. 94 of the Fort Sutter Papers, Henry E. Huntington Library) shows that Gregson enlisted as a private on August 8 and was discharged on November 8, after three months service at $12.50 a month.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>now I shall have to refer back again to the year 1845 when we arived at the fort  the governor of Call [Pio Pico] sent a writen document to Capt Sutter Autherizeing him to drive back the americans &amp; not to let them stop in the country.<ANCHOR ID="n2-18">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-18">The proclamations and orders from Pio Pico were received on October 21, according to <HI REND="italics">The Diary of Johann August Sutter</HI>
116.sgm: (San Francisco: The Grabhorn Press, 1932), p. 28.  See also <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:, p. 8.  Pico was acting on orders dated July 10, 1845, which he had received from the Mexican Government, instructing him to prevent the entry of immigrant families into the department.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op, cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>Some ameracans brought general Valago [Vallejo] and his Brother Salvador Valago &amp; 1 frenchman [Victor Prudon].  1 amercan [Jacob P. Leese].  &amp; 1 englishman [Robert Ridley] prisoners to the fort for safe keeping, &amp; the few soldiers that remained at the fort kept gaurd over them.  they were treated very kindly. <ANCHOR ID="n2-19">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-19">The statements made here are well supported by most of the works on the Bear Flag revolt.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>now to show how the indians did with a thief the house we lieved in was two or three oo [two or three hundred] yards south of the fort.  one day while I was sitting doing little or nothing I heard some very loud yells  I went for to see what was the matter &amp; there was about 9 or 10 indians.  &amp; they had caught a large coyotay &amp; they had skined him alive.  &amp; although it was a very hot day in July the poor thing would shiver as if he was freezing.  &amp; every time he would shiver the indians would dance &amp; through up their hands &amp; yell with all their might.  there was a few white persons watching.  I suppose the Mr Coyoty had been stealing their beef.</P>
116.sgm:<P>during the harvest time the Capt employed the wild digers [Digger <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<P>there was a few white wimen besides myself.  there was Mrs McDowel <ANCHOR ID="n2-20">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; Mrs leihy.<ANCHOR ID="n2-21">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; Mrs Montgomery in other years latter Mrs Wallace [Wallis] of Mayfield near S.F. city.<ANCHOR ID="n2-22">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: about this time I saw Mr Hardy &amp; it was the last time I eve[r] saw him, the summer is past again &amp; on the second day of Sepber there was a weding at the fort  the mans name was Wyman &amp; the girls was Amearci Kelsey.<ANCHOR ID="n2-23">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-20">James McDowell and his wife, Margaret Pyles, and daughter Maggie A. came overland to California in 1845 with a party Bancroft was unable to identify.  He was employed as a gunsmith by Sutter, 1845-47.  In August 1847 he moved with his family across the Sacramento, bought a rancho there and built a house.  In May 1849 he was murdered, and the next year his widow had the townsite of Washington laid out on her land.  She married Dr. E. C. Taylor in 1851 and died at Washington in 1883.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-21">The wife of Daniel Leahy who was an Irish cooper at Sutter's Fort, 1845-46, and in 1847 owner of a lot in San Francisco, where they lived at least until 1854.  He died in Nevada in 1875, leaving a family in Oregon.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-22">Sarah Montgomery came overland with her husband, Allen, in 1844 with the Stevens party.  He died in 1847, and she married, on October 25, 1849, the notorious Talbot H. Green (Paul Geddes, a fugitive from justice).  When the facts came out about Green, she divorced him and married Joseph Sawyer Wallis, in 1854.  John Adam Hussey, "New Light upon Talbot H. Green," in this QUARTERLY, XVIII (March 1939), 32-63.  Bancroft records, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-23">America Kelsey, daughter of David Kelsey, came to Oregon in 1843 and to California in the Kelsey party of 1844, with her father and mother, two sisters and possibly a brother.  George F. Wyman, whom she married in 1846, was sent by Sutter to raise recruits for the Micheltorena campaign in December 1844, and is often mentioned in the <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:.  He was living at Spanishtown (now Half Moon Bay), San Mateo County, 1878-84.  Bancroft,  <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>there are several incedents happened during the summer of 1846 one very warm day in July 46 I was sitting in my house when I heard loud yells outsides  I arose &amp; went to see what was the matter  When lo &amp; behold in front of the fort was 8 or 10 indians &amp; 2 or 3 white men.  the indians had caught a very large Coyiota in a trap.  the coyota had been stealing their beef &amp; they were punishing him for it.  they had skined it alive &amp; every time the poor thing would Shiver with pain.  they would throw up their hands &amp; yell with delight.  So much for indian justise.<ANCHOR ID="n2-24">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-24"> This is a repetition of what Mrs. Gregson has related before.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>during the years 45 &amp; 46 &amp; 47.  I must [not] omit to name the families that was at the fort  there was Cap John A. Sutter the oldest resedent &amp; at Whose instigation the fort was erected to proctect himself &amp; all others that might have need of it.  the old Capn was very generous to a fault.  so large was his heart that he could not say no, peace to his ashes.  &amp; there was Mr John Bidwill [Bidwell] who was the cleark for the Cap S.  Bidwill was an honest steady sobber man useing nether liqure or tobacco &amp; Gorge McKinstry<ANCHOR ID="n2-25">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; Cap Kern<ANCHOR ID="n2-26">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: who was Fremonts draughtsman, over the paths to Call &amp; among the familys in 46 &amp; 7 where Jim Smith who married our  mother<ANCHOR ID="n2-27">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; they lived in one of the adobe houses outside of the fort &amp; Gregsons who lived in one end room of the same--&amp; a family named Mc Dowel<ANCHOR ID="n2-28">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: Mr &amp; Mrs McD &amp; 3 little girls lived inside of the fort  Mr &amp; Mrs leighy<ANCHOR ID="n2-29">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-25">George McKinstry, Jr., who came overland in 1846, was active in relief measures for the Donner party.  He was the first sheriff of the Northern District, at Sutter's Fort, 1846-47; took part in public affairs at Sacramento in early mining times;    and had a trading post on the Cosumnes, 1849-50.  From 1871-74 he was a physician at San Diego.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-26">Edward M. Kern came as an artist with Fre&acute;mont's expedition of 1845.  He served as a lieutenant in the California Battalion in 1846, being in command at Sutter's Fort after the Bear Flag revolt.  He left California in 1847.  Kern River and Kern County were named for him.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-27">Mrs. Anna Hughes Marshall married James Smith on January 11, 1846, at Sutter's Fort.  <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:, p. 22. Smith, a native of England, naturalized in 1844 after having been in California three years, was a farmer in the Sacramento Valley. Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-28">See Note 20.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-29">See Note 21.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>there was a great deal of sickness among the emigrants &amp; several deaths occord.  there was a doctor Gilde<ANCHOR ID="n2-30">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-30">Swasey, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., pp. 28-29, says that Dr. W. B. Gildea was a dentist, from St. Louis, whom he persuaded at Fort Laramie to join his California-bound party of twelve, which included Jacob R. Snyder, William Blackburn, and others.  The <HI REND="italics">N.   H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:, p. 3, records the arrival at Sutter's Fort, on September 27, 1845, of "Dr. W. B. Gildea and J. Greenwood with a small party preceding a large company from the States."  Dr. Gildea, employed by Sutter, took charge of the pharmacy and became the physician at the Fort.  Swasey, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., p. 35.  He died there on January 24, 1846, and was buried the same day.  <HI REND="italics">N.  H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<P>in the summer of 46 there was a commany of U.S. Solders stationed in the fort  &amp; I think it was the west side of the fort. that there was quite a lagoon of water where the indians used to wash &amp; bathe.  Well the Solders <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:used to bathe there to.  one day some solders &amp; indians were washing &amp; bathing When one of the solders was taken with the cramps &amp; before any of the indians   could get him out he was drowned &amp; they buried him with milterry honers.  I never learned his name<ANCHOR ID="n2-31">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-31">This was William Ko&die;nig, a German from Leipzig.  <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<P>now comes on another part of the war in Call Captain freemont was about Monteray &amp; he wanted some horses that were away north of the fort &amp; he wanted them brought down to him for his use &amp; he said that if the few white men that was at the fort would volenteer, he would provide for their famieles &amp; that they should receive solders rations.  So Mr Gregson &amp; others went &amp; got the horses &amp; drove them to Montrey.  leaving their famiels in charge of the Armerican Government intill the war should cease or stop.<ANCHOR ID="n2-32">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-32">See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>Well he went &amp; left me &amp; my little girl about six weeks old. to do [the] best I could.  I got along pretty well untill nearly Christmass with nothing to do only take care of the little one, the worst of it [was] I had very little to eat &amp; I got so thin in flesh that I could scarsely carry the few cloaths that were on my back.  I was nursing a fat cross baby &amp; had very little norishments--about that time Mrs leahy she says to me come &amp; live with me &amp; we will put our grub together  it will be better for us both, as her husband was gone to so I moved the few things I had &amp; stayed with her &amp; Mrs Montgomery.</P>
116.sgm:<P>Well at that time we could hear nothing from the seat of war one day there came A man with letters to Captain sutter &amp; Cap Kern stateing there had been a battle with the spanierds on the salines [Salinas] plains &amp; there was 4 Armercans killed &amp;  7 wounded.  with no names [mentioned]  We few women where very uneasy about this time. for we did not [know] weather we were widows or not.<ANCHOR ID="n2-33">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-33">The battle of Natividad, or Salinas Plains, occurred on November 16, 1845.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., V, 363-72.  An account of the battle was printed in the <HI REND="italics">California Star</HI>
116.sgm:<P>about a week before Christmas it comenced raining as hard as it could for a fortnight without intermision &amp; the whole of Sacramento was over flowde, &amp; on about that week the man of war boat portsmouth came up from yerbobine [Yerba Buena] up the Sacto to within 2 or 3 hundred yards west of Sutters fort  the Captain  &amp; crew were very kind to us ladies  Mrs leahy &amp; Mrs Montgomery  &amp; myself &amp; our famileys went to visit them, before they left yerbobino the people at that place told them that there were no ladies at the fort besides the squaws. &amp; they were well pleased  to find they were mistaken.</P>
116.sgm:<P>that winter was a very wet one &amp; we were scarce of food and fuel &amp; we had hard work to keep fires.  the indians were told to suply us with fire wood but the whole valley [was] flooded to the foot hills &amp; they had hard work to suply themselves as far as I can remember it was as bad as the year 1861 &amp; 62, but there was no one to keep any account of it.</P>
116.sgm:<P>another itom which I must not forget I was liveing with Mrs leahy &amp; in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:the same house with Mrs Montgomery.  Mrs leahy had two little girls Mary Ann &amp; liby.  Mary Ann [was] between 4 &amp; 5 years old.  well Mrs leahy was very kind to me for which I hold her in greatful memery  She had been teaching Mary Ann her letters as best she could.  She asked me if I would teach her little girls to write as she did not know how herselfe  I told her Yes I would &amp; was very glad for I had no employment so at it I went during that time Mrs Montgomery would watch us with great<HSEP>   interest.  one day she says to me will you teach me Mrs Gregson.  I looked at her to see if she was in enerst. &amp; I told her yes if you want to learn.  She said if you will learn me how to write I will do something very big for you if I am able.  So I fulfilled my part but she forgot her part.</P>
116.sgm:<P>Well the winter passes away &amp; early in the year 47 the startling news arives at the fort that some emigrants [members of the Donner party] had just come in from the sirranaveds [Sierra Nevada] almost starved to death.  &amp; that they had left a large party starving in the mountains.  So what was to be done there was but a few people at the fort. &amp; old Captain Sutter sent out his vacquars [vaqueros] that is the indians that he had trained he sent them out to bring in about 12 head of the fatest [steers] &amp; they did as they were told.  they killed the beefs &amp; barbaqued the meat &amp; packed it on the best mules that was to be found &amp; started them off.</P>
116.sgm:<P>there was a few white men went along with the indians to rescue the starveing people.  amongst the white men that went out was one young man that had just come in from the mountains  he volenteered to go back again.  he had no relations nor any intrest but humanity &amp; a big heart promted him &amp; taking of his waikcoat &amp; his watch &amp; a letter to be sent to N.Y. to his sister in case he should never return.  poo[r] man he was froze to death.<ANCHOR ID="n2-34  ">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-34">Charles T. Stanton, a native of New York but more recently a resident of Chicago, with William McCutchen had left the Donner party about September 18, 1846, somewhere in eastern Nevada and had pushed through to Sutter's Fort.  There he left McCutchen, who was ill, and traveled back with food, seven pack-mules and two Indian vaqueros, rejoining the party on October 19--the first to bring back supplies.  He later led the way three times over the pass, but on December 21, snow-blind, exhausted, and starving, he dropped behind and was left to die.  George Rippey Stewart, Jr., <HI REND="italics">Ordeal by Hunger</HI>
116.sgm:<P>there was but a few white women but we did all in our power for them.  in two or 3 weeks back again some of them came.  the mules allmost all dead &amp; 3 or 4 indians besides white people.  &amp; they wanted more food for the starving ones that could not come.  I shall never forget the looks of those people for the most part of them were crazey &amp; their eyes danced &amp; sparkled in their heads like stars.  among the first lot that came out were 18.  5 girls &amp; wemen the rest were men.  the[re] were only two men survived a Mr fowler<ANCHOR ID="n2-35">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; Mr Edey.<ANCHOR ID="n2-36">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; 4 of the females were named Graves<ANCHOR ID="n2-37">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: the youngest one was about 11 years old &amp; one maried lady Mrs Fosdick<ANCHOR ID="n2-38">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-35">Mrs. Gregson probably means William M. Foster, from Pennsylvania, a son-in-law of Mrs. Lavina Murphy.  His wife, Sarah A. C. Murphy, survived, but their baby son died in the mountains.  Foster was a member of the fourth relief party.  In 1847-48 he kept a furniture store in San Francisco, and later was a storekeeper in the mines.  Foster's Bar was named for him.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., III, 745; see also Stewart, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-36">William H. Eddy, a carriage-maker from Illinois, was one of the most active in saving other members of the party.  His wife Eleanor, son James P., and daughter Mary all perished in the Sierra.  Eddy married Mrs. F. Alfred in 1848, and Miss A. M. Pardoe in 1856, and died at Petaluma in 1859.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:.,  II, 788-89; and Stewart, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-37">Mary Ann (20), Ellen or Eleanor (15), Lavina (13), and Nancy (9).  Their father and mother--Franklin Ward Graves and his wife Elizabeth--and brother Franklin, Jr. had died in the Sierra.   Stewart, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., p. 299; and Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-38">Sarah Graves Fosdick (22), wife of Jay Fosdick and daughter of F. W. Graves.  See Stewart, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., p. 142. In 1848 Mrs. Fosdick married William Ritchie, and in 1856, Samuel Spiers.  She died near Watsonville in 1871.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>praphs I might as well speak a little more about Mrs fosdick.  the wemen would take the lead over the snow &amp; beat the track for the men to walk in.  but for all that the men sunk down &amp; died.  the wemen even led them by the hand &amp; made the camp fires &amp; gave them food one morning Mrs fosdicks husband was dieing<HSEP> he tried to travel but did not succeed &amp; the rest of the party could not stop for him to die.  So she told them I will stay with him untill he dies  You go I will overtake you  in about 2 hours she was seen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<P>the second party that came out were Mrs reeds family<ANCHOR ID="n2-39">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; one servant women<ANCHOR ID="n2-40">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; a part of the two donners familys.  Jake &amp; Gorge donner the[y] were two brothers with their wifes &amp; children.  of the gorge donner family<ANCHOR ID="n2-41">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: there was 5 girls elithey [Elitha] &amp; Leah [Leanna] &amp; frances and gorgeana [Georgia] &amp; Elza [Eliza].  of jake donners family<ANCHOR ID="n2-42">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: two sons I was gorge donner &amp; one girl named Mary donner.   poor girl both her feet were frozen &amp; they were in shocking condition  the flys had blown them &amp; there was maggots in them &amp; she suffered a great deal.  there was a doctor at the fort he came &amp; put some medesien on them but her feet was ruined<ANCHOR ID="n2-43">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-39">Margaret W. Reed, wife of James Frazier Reed; the Reed children: Martha J. (Patty), James Frazier, Jr., and Thomas K.; and Virginia E. Backenstoe, generally known as Reed, for she was Mrs. Reed's daughter by her first husband.  Stewart, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., p. 300, and Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-40">Eliza Williams, half-sister of Baylis Williams.  Stewart, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-41">See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., II, 783; and Stewart, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-42"><HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-43">Mary's foot, frozen and numb, had fallen into the fire at Starved Camp.  After the party arrived at Sutter's Fort, Mary was carried through to San Francisco, where her foot was treated by Andrew J. Henderson, surgeon of the U.S. Ship <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
116.sgm:.    Eliza P. Donner Houghton, <HI REND="italics">The Expedition of the Donner Party</HI>
116.sgm: (Chicago, 1911), pp. 128, 313.  She was married in 1859 to S. O. Houghton, but died the next year, and he, in 1861, married her cousin Eliza, the author of the book just cited.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>&lcub;They left old Mr &amp; Mrs [George and Tamsen] Donner with no one else but Keysburg [Lewis Keseberg] whose cabin was about 8 miles this west side of the nevada line.  The old man Donner was too sick to travel and one of his hands were very sore.  Mrs Donner would not leave her husband.  So they left her some beef and promised to return for them in a short time.  Mr. &amp; Mrs. Jake Donner died in a short time after the arrival of rescueing party to them.  In due time the men went out again and the weather was getting milder and the snow not so deep in the mountains.  The first camp  was Keysburgs they found him in his cabin cooking his supper of human flesh.  they followed the tracks to the other camp but found no one, but the foot prints of Mrs Donner where she had apparently been cutting meat from a steer which had been buried in the snow, showing, plainly that she had not died from starvation.  returning to Keysburgs  camp, they asked him where is Mrs Donner?  He said she died and he cut her flesh up and had it in a box and her husbands too for there was the sore hand.  There were boxes filled with human flesh all cut and packed in butcherly style.  The next thing where was her money, for Mr &amp; Mrs Donner had about $800.00 dollars it was not to be found Keysburg denied any knowledge of any money.&rcub;</P>
116.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n2-12b">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<P>so that one man by the name of big Ofallen<ANCHOR ID="n2-44">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-44">William O. Fallon [or O'Fallon], an Irish trapper, was known as "Mountaineer," "Big," or "Le Gros" Fallon.  He was a member of the fourth Donner relief, and his diary, published in the <HI REND="italics">California Star</HI>
116.sgm:, and quoted in J. Quinn Thorton, <HI REND="italics">Oregon and California in 1848</HI>
116.sgm:<P>one day old Mrs Lenox we thought we would like to see the maneater I told the old lady you go in first &amp; I will follow.  during the conversation Mrs Lenox asked him how human flesh tasted &amp; he said it was better than chicken &amp; several times that winter his wife would arrouse the people by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:screaming murder at midnight  she said that he wanted to kill her.  Kesburg got offended at the folks for saying that he killed Mrs Donner &amp; he sued them at law.  during the examination he said that he got 4 pounds of tallow out of her.  once he called one of the little donner girls to come to him but she answered him no you killed my mother  he stayed about the fort for some time afterwards  I saw but very little of him<ANCHOR ID="n2-45">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-45">Cf. Stewart, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., pp. 259-65, 287-93; see also Charles Fayeette McGlashan, <HI REND="italics">History of the Donner Party</HI>
116.sgm: (San Francisco: T. C. Wohlbruck, 1931), pp. 184-206.  McGlashan and Mrs. Houghton, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>&lcub;So the spring of 1847 came and the war being ended, the soldiers began to come back again, and we women would watch for any news, at last they returned, and some of the friends that I had been with all winter went to San Francisco.  But we stayed at the fort, and Gregson and Mr. Lenox engaged with Capt Sutter to go upon Bear river and get out Mill-stones for him, which they did.<ANCHOR ID="n2-46">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-46">Lenox, or Lennox, is mentioned in the <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm: on pp. 50, 70, 72, 75, 89, 95, 97, 108, 112, 129.  In one instance he is called J. Lenox, although Bancroft ( <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>I wanted to move to Yerba Buena as it was then called, but my wishes were not considered and we then with Lenox's, moved to the tan yard on the American river and stayed that summer,<ANCHOR ID="n2-47">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: and in the latter part of the summer Gregson along  with most of the people, was taken down with the Sacramento fever, which came very near taking his life, so near that the doctor <ANCHOR ID="n2-48">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: came in for his pay, and we gave him all [the] cows and horses we had for money we had none.  The doctor thought my husband would die in a few short hours  My mind was in a terrible state for what could I do.  The fever was raging and he was delerious.  I sat down and thought and I asked the old lady Lenox, is there nothing I can get for him  I must do something or he will die, and you are a western woman can not you tell me of something some herbs?     she answered no.  Then I went out in the fields.  I could find nothing no not even a blade of grass.  All that there was, was some cow manure and it came to me, the cows have eaten up all the grass and herbs, why not the manure make a good medicine.  So I took some of it wrapped it up in a cloth and boiled it then I filled a pint bowl full and took it to him.  When he saw it he said, You want to poison me.  I told him no see me drink.  with that he took the bowl with both hands and drank it all and went to sleep.&rcub;<ANCHOR ID="n2-12c">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: slept 3 or 4 hours but the fever was gone [and he] himself  [was] as weak as an infant.<ANCHOR ID="n2-49">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-47">The <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-48">This was probably either Andrew J. Ward, a physician who had come to California with the New York Volunteers, or Dr. Bates, both of whom are mentioned frequently in the <HI REND="italics">N. H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-49">Capt. R. E. O'Neill, of San Francisco, has known of Hispanic-Americans using cow and sheep manure broths to break a fever.  There may be cinchona, quinine, or some other chemical febrifuge in the mixture, but more probably it is a case of the patient's getting well in spite of the treatment.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>during this time myself &amp; my babe was sick but not as sick as the men &amp; the indians suffered tererable  they died almost in heaps &amp; was not able one to bury the other when he died  my husband recovered his health partly but not fully for a long time.  but he went back to work again.  &amp; our little girls health being in very poor state in October I had a chance to go down to San Franco<ANCHOR ID="n2-50">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: I took her down so to see if it would not do her good &amp; while there we stayed with Mrs leahy  she was very kind to us &amp; as she had several boarders I did all the work  I was able so to help pay our board  my babe remained sick &amp; one day I watched her expecting every hour would be the last  When she reveived a little I took her to doctor leavensworth<ANCHOR ID="n2-51">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-50">The <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm: records, on September 25, 1847 (p. 80): "The Launch has been despatched by Sunset<HSEP>Supercargo  Mr Keseberg, Passengers Mrsers Keseberg &amp; Gregson<HSEP>"</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-51">Thaddeus M. Leavenworth, a native of Connecticut, was a physician and Episcopal clergyman who had come as a chaplain with the New York Volunteers in 1847.  He was an alcalde of San Francisco, 1847-49, but went to Sonoma County to live in 1850.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<P>then I wanted to go home but there was no conveyance &amp; I had to wait.  mind in those days there was no steamboats or any other boats but a little la[u]nch belonging to Sutter &amp; it had no regular runing  [One day there appeared a little steamboat<ANCHOR ID="n2-52">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: she was sailing on the bay  she was a pretty little thing, the first one that ever steamed across the bay.  Her name was Sitka.  They were going up the Sacramento river to the fort.  So Mr. Leahy engaged a passage for me and my child.  So I naturally thought I shall be at home in a day or two.  But I was sadly disappointed.  It took 9 days and nights to steam up that river.   The boiler leaked, and I do believe that I could have walked home quicker.  To make matters worse we were short of provisions and I did not mind for myself but my little girl fared badly.  So we  got home the day before Christmas day 1847.<ANCHOR ID="n2-53">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-52">See John Haskell Kemble, "The First Steam Vessel to Navigate San Francisco Bay," this QUARTERLY, XIV (June 1935), 143-46.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-53">The <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<P>And after a few weeks which was in January we left the tan yard and went to live at the sheep corral.<ANCHOR ID="n2-54">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: Mrs. Lenox and myself we had each one a house to ourselves and there was a small store close by.  The proprietor was a Scotchman  I have forgotten his name.  He left the store in charge of another man named  Coats.<ANCHOR ID="n2-55">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-54">This was on January 19, 1848, according to the <HI REND="italics">N.   H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-55">James Coates.  The proprietor of the store was possibly  Samuel Norris, who Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., IV, 755, says was of German or Danish birth.  The robbery occurred on March 8 or 9, according to the <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<P>It was about Dec 1847 when the mill stones were finished the grist mill was being built on the American river about 3 miles across in an easterly direction from the fort.<ANCHOR ID="n2-56">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: At this time Sutter engaged my husband and I to go to Coloma.  My husband to be the blacksmith for a saw mill which was being built by Capt Sutter   and James Marshall.  Myself to cook for the hands which were about 15 men.  One man by the name of Bennet,<ANCHOR ID="n2-57">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-56">See Note 46.  The <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-57">Charles Bennett was sent by Sutter to Monterey to apply in his behalf to Col. Richard B. Mason, the military governor, for a grant of land (of the millsite and surrounding country), to include mill, pastures and mineral privileges.  Although he had been instructed to say nothing about the gold to anyone, he gave away the secret at Benicia on the way down, and again in San Francisco.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., VI, 43-44, and John Henry Brown, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>The Indians that were about had never seen a white child, and it was soon noised abroad that there was a white child on the place and the Indians came from a distance of 40 miles to see her.  They would come to the door and look and then they would cover their faces with their hands, and were very much astonished at the sight.&rcub;<ANCHOR ID="n2-12d">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<P>after a week or two we heard that the mineral that was taken out of the tailrace of the sawmill [was gold] &amp; the hands would occasanale bring in a little gold dust</P>
116.sgm:<P>after a while I got tired of seeing nothing but squaws &amp; I wanted to see a white woman again so they took me and my child about 15 miles to a place I think it was the dimond springs to see Mrs Wimmer &amp; her family<ANCHOR ID="n2-58">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:stayed two days &amp; nights &amp; then returned home.  [Well I found her camping out and Sleeping in the wagon.  she was very glad to see me and we did not sleep very much, but put in the time talking while I stayed, which was two days and nights, and then I returned home.  She showed we while there a nugget of pure gold nearly as large as my thumb.  William Scott who had been stopping with the wimmer family had found it the last of January 1848, and there was no gold excitement at that time.<ANCHOR ID="n2-59">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: The exact date on which gold was really discovered, I am unable to state as it was some time before we could believe that it was real gold.  In a few days however after we got settled at Coloma The work hands were digging the tail race at the mill, and one evening they had turned on the water so as to sluice out the dirt.  The next morning Jas Marshall and Pete Wimmer were standing on the bank examining the work, when Marshall said to Wimmer, "What is that glittering down in the tail-race?"  Wimmer jumped down and picked up some substance, which proved to be fine scale gold, and there was no other kind of gold found in that place, as we afterwards learned.  The work hands would occasionally bring in a little gold dust.&rcub;<ANCHOR ID="n2-12e">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-58">Peter L. Wimmer came overland to California in 1846 with his wife, Elizabeth Jane.  He worked for Sutter was a millwright in 1847-48 and was one of the men employed at the Coloma mill when gold was discovered by James Marshall, on January 24, 1848.  Bancroft,  <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., V, 778.  Mrs. Wimmer tested the first piece of gold found by Marshall, by boiling it in her soap kettle.  This (a flake, not a nugget) is now in the Smithsonian Institution.  See Philip Baldwin Bekeart, "James Wilson Marshall, Discoverer of Gold," in <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
116.sgm: of The Society of California Pioneers, Vol. I, No. 3 (September 1924), 14-30.  The Wimmers later claimed that a nugget in their possession was the first gold found by Marshall.  William Wallace Allen and Richard Benjamin Avery, <HI REND="italics">California Gold Book</HI>
116.sgm: (San Francisco, 1893), pp. 5-6, 72-74.  In 1849 the Wimmers moved to what is now Calaveras County, and from 1878 to 1885 they resided in Southern California.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">loc. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-59">William W. Scott, who had come overland in 1845 in the Grigsby-Ide party, is said to have been the first man to whom Marshall showed the gold he discovered.  The nugget described by Mrs. Gregson is very likely the one the Wimmers later claimed was the first piece of gold found by Marshall.  See Note 58.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>about this time there was a man named humphrys<ANCHOR ID="n2-60">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: he was a minealoligist [mineralogist] &amp; so [when] the weathre opned out people began to come into the mines  one man by the name of turner<ANCHOR ID="n2-61">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-60">"April 2d. Mr. Humphrey a regular Miner arrived, and left for Columa with Wimmer and Marshall."  <HI REND="italics">The Diary of Johann August Sutter</HI>
116.sgm:, p. 46.  Isaac Humphrey had been a miner in Georgia, and knew how to make a rocker and wash out the gold.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-61">Turner and his daughter Mary have not been identified.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>by &amp; by her parents moved into the mines &amp; camped close by us.  I must say here that for about 3 months we our liveing was very poor  We had salt beef so poor &amp; salty that it looked like blue flint--&amp; salt Salmon too salty &amp; oily that it was not fit to eat &amp; boild barley sometimes boiled wheat &amp; peas dried neither bread or Coffee or tea or sugar.  1 keg of Butter strong enough to run away of itself  so that is the way we lived for about 3 months.</P>
116.sgm:<P>about this time gold hunters began to arive with pans &amp; in A short time the new[s] began to spread far &amp; wide  about the first of May some men came up from Sonoma &amp; told me that my little sister Mary Ann was married to a Doc. Ames an assistant Doc in the N.Y. Volunteers<ANCHOR ID="n2-62">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-62">Thaddeus M. Ames, a native of New York, had come to California with Stevenson's Regiment of New York Volunteers in 1847, in Co. C.  He was later a doctor in Mendocino County and represented that county in the State assembly in 1862-63.  He died in Green Valley, Sonoma County, in 1876.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>somewheres about this time old James Marshall &amp; J gregson went prospecting for gold a little further up the river than they had been and they found plenty of scale gold  my husband asked Marshall to divide with him.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:he very quickly answered no you are working for me.  Very well says gregson I will work no more &amp; I shall gather gold for myself which he did now the people were coming in from all  parts of the of Call &amp; chili &amp; by &amp; by the oragononians commencing to arive  early in the gold excitement Mr Gregson made the first pick &amp; afterwards made a good many picks &amp; drills for the miners.  &amp; the men stopt working on the mill  every thing was gold crazy run away sailors and solders came into the mines my mother &amp; two brothers &amp; my sister came to hunt for gold.  my sisters husband had deserated &amp; she did not know where he was at that time.  Somwhere, about July or august he came into the place where we were living &amp; we were hideing him for fear of him being arested.  at this time Mrs Wimmers little boy was born    <ANCHOR ID="n2-63">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-63">The child was born in August 1848.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>in 1848. goods began to arive in the mines &amp; every kind was very high prised flour $1 per pound.  Coffee $10 per pound tea $18 per pound &amp; other things in proporsion eggs $18 per dozen.  $1. yard for common calico.  We wemen folks took in all the sewing such as makeing overalls  We could make $10 per day.</P>
116.sgm:<P>there was several families camped arround us &amp; there was a store started.  &amp; another house built covered with canvas also some houses built down on the flat close by the Mill &amp; the wemen folks got plenty of sewing to do but salt &amp; bad living so long began to tell on my husband &amp; little girl  they were both taken sick &amp; no one knew what was the matter my husband was scarcely able to walk &amp; on the 25 of september my daughter Mary Ellen was born<ANCHOR ID="n2-64">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: that same day my other daughter was taken down sick &amp; did not walk for 7 months afterwards: &amp; there I was with two sick ones &amp; myself not able to help either one of them.  We paid Doctor tenent<ANCHOR ID="n2-65">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-64">Mary Ellen later married a member of the McChristian family.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-65">Possibly Samuel J. Tennent, an Englishman who, while a surgeon on a whaler at the Sandwich Islands, had left his vessel and come to California on hearing of the gold discovery.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>So we engaged Robert Spence<ANCHOR ID="n2-66">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-66">Robert Spence had been a member of Co. E of the California Battalion, in which he had enlisted at Sonoma in October 1846.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>in the spring of 49 he [Gregson] was feeling so much better that he [decided that] he would try the mines again so he started off leaveing me &amp; the two little ones.  I still did all the work that I could get to do.  during this time there was severall families living in sonoma valley  there was Mr &amp; Mrs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:Bruner <ANCHOR ID="n2-67">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; they were taking care of goargannia &amp; Eliza donner of the donner party &amp; Mr &amp; Mrs Carerger,<ANCHOR ID="n2-68">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; John &amp; tom hopper<ANCHOR ID="n2-69">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; old valayo [Vallejo].  it would take a long time to write every incedent that occord during this spring suffice to say nothing of any importance happened untill a man by name of Wm Scot died<ANCHOR ID="n2-70">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-67">Christian Bruner (or Brunner) and his wife Mary, natives of Switzerland, had lived in New Orleans before coming to California in 1846.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., II, 733-34.  The Donner girls had been cared for, soon after their rescue, by the Brunners at their ranch about twenty-five miles from Sutter's Fort, and later at Sonoma.  In 1857 Brunner was sent to San Quentin for killing his nephew, but was pardoned in 1861.  Houghton, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-68">Mr. and Mrs. Nicholas Carriger, immigrants of 1846.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., II, 743, and <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Sonoma County</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-69">See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-70">See Note 59.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>Shortly after that a sailor stoped at my house for to light his pipe &amp; being alone with my two little ones I was somewhat afraid  when looking at my children he asked what was the matter with them &amp; where was my husband  I told him that my man was somewheres in town &amp; that both my little ones were sick.  the oldest one had not walked for nearly 7 months &amp; the little one had a blood tumer growing on her face between her eyes.<ANCHOR ID="n2-71">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: he said he could show me a herb that would cure annie but the other one he could do nothing for her, so he told me to get some marshmallow  &amp; boil it &amp; give her it to drink &amp; also to bathe her in it &amp; he said she would walk in two weeks.  I did as he told me   &amp; sure enough she got up on her feet in less than two weeks &amp; walked.  She startled me one day by holding up both her hands &amp; saying see mama annie can walk.<ANCHOR ID="n2-72">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-71">A blood tumor is a hemangioma, either hereditary or the result of mechanical injury.  These benign growths or birthmarks are now usually removed at birth.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-72">Scurvy is now a relatively rare disease due to the widespread information concerning vitamin C, which is contained in practically all fresh fruits and vegetables.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>during the winter &amp; spring of 1848 &amp; 49 &amp; all through that summer I took in washing &amp; sewing to support my familly &amp; I toiled as best I could.  the reader of this must not suppose that I had no enjoyment or friends for Mr &amp; Mrs Bruner where very kind &amp; got me employment so that we did not lack for food or cloaths, although it took all that I earned.  again my husband returned from the mines sick.  &amp; in the fall of 49 my mother &amp; sister Mary ann &amp; two Brothers left the mines &amp; came down to sonoma.  &amp; my Brother Henry &amp; my husband went up to suttersville<ANCHOR ID="n2-73">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-73">Early in 1846 Sutter had laid out the town of Sutterville, three miles below the Fort on the Sacramento River.  The settlement flourished until after gold was discovered and Sacramento came into being.  The new town soon rivalled and then surpassed Sutterville and the latter gradually faded away.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>during that fall the tumer on babes face had grown to the size of an egg &amp; it was expedient that it must be taken off so it happened there was an army surgioun in town &amp; he with the help of my Brotherinlaw Dr Ames the work was accomplished  the fee $100 and 50 that was our first going in debt so what with debts hard work &amp; little means we remain poor untill this day.</P>
116.sgm:<P>Well in the year 1850 my husband &amp; my Brother henry<ANCHOR ID="n2-74">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: came out to green valley in analey township.  &amp; they went to Capt Cooper<ANCHOR ID="n2-75">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: &amp; got a permit to settle on the ranch where we now reside.  Mr Gregson &amp; Henry marshall &amp; John came out here in January 1850 &amp; built a log cabbin &amp; made some fences &amp; got some potatoes of Cap [Stephen] Smith of bodago [Bodega] paid 10cts per pound, the first planted in green valley  on the 1 of May 1850 I started with Mr &amp; Mrs [T.] Churchman<ANCHOR ID="n2-76">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: with oxen in the wagons  slow traveling We were 2 days &amp; two nights  We had to camp out  the weather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-74">Henry Marshall had come to California with the Gregsons in 1845, had enlisted in Captain Sears' company of Fre&acute;mont's Battalion in 1846, was wounded at the Battle of Natividad, and joined his mother, brother, and sisters at Sonoma in 1847, where they were living in an old adobe on the Petaluma ranch, opposite Petaluma.  He went to Green Valley to live, early in 1850.  Marshall, "Reminiscences," in <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-75">John B. R. Cooper, a half-brother of Thomas O. Larkin, was claimant for Rancho El Molino, in Sonoma County.  See <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Sonoma County</HI>
116.sgm:, pp. 150-51, and Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-76">Churchman is mentioned in the <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm: as early as April 1847.  He went to work for Sutter on his mill in May.  <HI REND="italics">Op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>Well we staid for about 1 month in the mashall cabbin dureing that time gregson &amp; the boys raised another log cabbin on the gregson ranch, so we moved into it &amp; set up housekeeping with what little we had.  the deer was plenty &amp; when we wanted meat our men would go &amp; kill some.  I tell you it was rather lonely for some time.  the churchmans family went over into the other valley   &amp; settled there  after a time some others like ourselves came into the Valley to squat on Coopers claim &amp; so it remained in green Valley.  in June &amp; July 1850 Mitchill Gilliams<ANCHOR ID="n2-77">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: with his family &amp; a man called major I. W. Sulivan<ANCHOR ID="n2-78">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: came &amp; settled on the left side of our ranch, &amp; also lank [Lancaster] Clyman<ANCHOR ID="n2-79">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-77">Mitchell Gilham became a permanent settler in Green Valley in 1851.  <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Sonoma County</HI>
116.sgm:, p. 172.  An M. Gillian (possibly the same) had settled near Sebastopol in 1850.  <HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-78">Major Isaac Sullivan married Miss Polly Gilham in 1851.  <HI REND="italics">Ibid</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-79">Lancaster Clyman was in Oregon in 1843-44.  He may have been a brother of James Clyman.  See Charles L. Camp, ed., "James Clyman, His Diaries and Reminiscences," in this QUARTERLY, V (March 1926), 47.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>in the winter of 49 &amp; 50 I sold a roan horse for $100  With the proceeds I bought the flour to do us during the first year in Green Valley.  I also brought a cat &amp; kittins &amp; we had one black horse old nig  he was not a work horse so Gregson had to borrow some mony to buy a yoke of oxen so that he could haul rails to fence in some land &amp; brake the sod so as to plant potatoes &amp; some garden vegetabls</P>
116.sgm:<P>Sometime in august 1850 my sister Mary Ann Ames &amp; her husband came out from sonoma Valley &amp; took up their abode with us &amp; they had a son born about the 24 or 25 of october.  he lived about 4 weeks when by some mistake she gave him some medesane which caused his death  the same fall we had a sick man by the name of fred Starkey<ANCHOR ID="n2-80">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: but he got well &amp; left soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-80">Possibly D. Frederick Starke.  See <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Sonoma   County</HI>
116.sgm:<P>1851 after a rather stormey winter [with] plenty of work [there was] nothing for both myself &amp; husband provisions high cloaths high prised &amp; very little coming in making everything hard on us, &amp; to make matters worse we just began to get letters from his kinsfolks in the east then we learned that Mr &amp; Mrs Gregson were both dead &amp; the rest of the family scattered or maried &amp; the youngest boy John gregson was in the Orphan Asiulm.  Well richard gregson wanted to come out to Callna  after a time father borrowed $300 to help him &amp; he concluded that it was not enough &amp; he never came &amp; we had to foot the bill so what with one thing or another it kept us on the bed rock with plenty of work &amp; but little pay.  &amp; fathers health not good if he went to work a day he would be taken down sick so we had to hire a good deal.</P>
116.sgm:<P>&amp; in 52 we had another boy born on the first of Sept so making one more to cloath &amp; feed<ANCHOR ID="n2-81">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-81">John N., who later became a resident of San Luis Obispo, Calif.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>In 50.1 [1851?] gregson went upon the hill to see if [he] could get some deer meat &amp; being tired he sat down to rest right on the spot where we now live.  Well he with some hired men went into the woods &amp; cut down trees &amp; scored the logs &amp; with help he got them out &amp; hauled them here &amp; as was [the] custom the neighbors all turned out to raise a hewed log house &amp; green Valley was pretty well filled with neighbors by this time.  we moved into this house on the 20th of October 53 &amp; it was only half finished for seaverall years.</P>
116.sgm:<P>about this time Newburg &amp; bernhard kept a store near  freestone<ANCHOR ID="n2-82">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: (but before this Miller &amp; Walker opened a store a little the other side of Sebastopol)<ANCHOR ID="n2-83">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-82">Edward Newburgh and Isaac Bernhard (natives of Bavaria) opened a store in Green Valley in 1853, but gave it up in 1857 (or 1864 according to another account) when they went into business in Petaluma.  <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Sonoma County</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-83">James M. Miller and John Walker settled in Analy township, Sonoma County, in 1850, and opened a store about one mile south of Sebastopol.  <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Sonoma County</HI>
116.sgm:<P>in the spring of 54 on the last day of May another daughter was born to us<ANCHOR ID="n2-84">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: somewheres in the summer of 54 I [think] it was the neighbors began to want their claims surveyed &amp; Cap Cooper came into the Valley to look after the land &amp; received pay for the same.  [Here a few words have been cut from the bottom of the page.]  our line &amp; Henry Marshalls  the surveyor mark &amp; it did not sute.  We gregsons had been paying taxes for more land than we had inside our fence &amp; Marshall had it surveyed ove[r] twice &amp; he was not yet satisfied but wanted it done over again but the surveyor Mr Gray<ANCHOR ID="n2-85">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-84">Eliza Jane Gregson (now Mrs. Thomas Bennet Butler) was born on May 31, 1854.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-85">Possibly Nicolas Gray, of St. Louis, Mo., who had come to California to survey the Larkin ranches.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<P><HSEP>in the early part of 52 [possibly 53] my Brother Henry &amp; my mother went on a visit to the eastren States--namly Mass &amp;  R.I. to see my eldest Brother F Wm. M. who never left there.  it was during that visit that my Brother henry became acquainted with Mary Jane Coterril &amp; latter in that year he married her &amp; a few weeks latter they all came back again to Call.  &amp; they lived  [in] a adobe house down below where they live now.  my children called her our new Aunty--</P>
116.sgm:<P>Well nothing of importance transpiring only the common routine of business incdently to farming &amp; such kind of work.  such as ploughing &amp; clearing planting out orchards &amp; vineyards &amp; raising stock &amp; milking cows  trying all ways to make a liveing &amp; our girls &amp; boys getting large enough to help us.  so that we might be able to pay our debts</P>
116.sgm:<P>&amp; on the 5 of Oct 1856 our son Henry M was born in 56 our country about sonoma county begins to improve, towns springing up all over &amp; the people building houses &amp; leaveing old cabbins to be used for outhouses.  &amp; the people begin to talk county fairs &amp; improve their stock.  &amp; farms improveing more &amp; better fences &amp; more usefull emplements to work with</P>
116.sgm:<P>At healdsburg the first county fair we recieved a silver butter knife for the best butter.</P>
116.sgm:<P>Well passing along we have another daughter born to us the 20 of March.  1858.<ANCHOR ID="n2-86">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: caroline one more daughter born to us on the 29 of October 1862.<ANCHOR ID="n2-87">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-86">Adelia J., born on March 28, 1858, later married George Fraits, of San Luis Obispo County.  <HI REND="italics">Hist of Sonoma County</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-87">Another son, Luke B., was born on March 27, 1868.  <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Sonoma County, loc. cit.</HI>
116.sgm:<P>there are but few persons that can write their history while they are alive sufice it to say all our children are maried &amp; scatered over the land &amp; myself &amp; husaband are almost alone as we were 42 years ago.</P>
116.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Statement of James Gregson</HEAD>
116.sgm:<P>I was born in England and came as a boy of twelve years to Philadelphia<ANCHOR ID="n3-88">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: and went to Illinois in the spring of 1844 and with my wife joined a train for Oregon at Independence in [April] 1845, and at Fort Hall we determined to come to California.   There we met Greenwood, the mountaineer, who told us we could get land of the grant holders and agreed to fetch us in.  He got $2.50<HSEP>apiece to pilot us in to California.  There was in our train about thirty wagons and perhaps--persons including men, women and children.<ANCHOR ID="n3-89">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: Near Fort Hall we fell in with Jacob R. Snyder<ANCHOR ID="n3-90">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: and Judge Blackburn<ANCHOR ID="n3-91">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: who were travelling with pack horses.  They came on with us.  With our party came George McDougal,<ANCHOR ID="n3-92">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: a young man.  He was brave and handsome.  He joined us at Fort Hall, and also Knight from whom Knights Valley is named.<ANCHOR ID="n3-93">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: The Elliotts<ANCHOR ID="n3-94">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: were along, and John Grigsby,<ANCHOR ID="n3-95">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: and the McChristians and family,<ANCHOR ID="n3-96">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: and the Hudson family.<ANCHOR ID="n3-97">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: We had no trouble at all at the sink of the Humboldt [except that we] had a few shots fired into our cattle.  Ide, who issued the     proclamation at Sonoma,<ANCHOR ID="n3-98">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-88">James Gregson was born in Little Bolton, Lancashire, England, on September 14, 1822.  In 1837, in Philadelphia, he was bound to James Brooks as an apprentice to the blacksmiths' and machinists' trade and served until he was 21 years old.  <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Sonoma County</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-89">See Note 3.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-90">Snyder had left Independence on May 12.  The diary of his trip to California is printed in the <HI REND="italics">Quarterly</HI>
116.sgm: of The Society of California Pioneers, VIII (December 1931), 224-60.  For biographical material concerning him see <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., pp. 203-19, and Swasey, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-91">William Blackburn, a Virginian, was with the Swasey-Todd party, according to Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit.</HI>
116.sgm:., II, 721, and Swasey, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-92">George McDougal, from Indiana, was also with the Swasey-Todd party.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., IV, 723, and Swasey, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-93">Thomas Knight, a native of Maine, had been a trader in Louisiana, Arkansas, and Missouri.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-94">William B. Elliott, a native of North Carolina, came from Missouri in the Grigsby-Ide party with his wife (Elizabeth Patton) and seven children.  He joined the Bear Flag party in 1846.  For further information concerning him see Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op.cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-95">John Grigsby, of the Grigsby-Ide party, a native of Tennessee, was later a leader in the Bear Flag revolt at Sonoma.  For his further history see Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-96">Patrick McChristian took part in the Bear Flag revolt the next year, went to the mines in 1848-49, and, after a short residence at Santa Cruz, became a farmer at Sonoma.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op.  cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-97">William Hudson, with his family, his brother David, and sister, Mrs. John York, and her husband, also came in the Grigsby-Ide party.  David, after taking part in the Bear Flag revolt, serving in the California Battalion, and working for a brief period in the mines, lived in Napa Valley until 1873 and then moved to Lake County.  William and his family lived at Santa Rosa.  <HI REND="italics">History of Napa and Lake Counties</HI>
116.sgm: (San Francisco: Slocum, Bowen &amp; Co., 1881), p. 241, and Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-98">William B. Ide's Bear Flag proclamation was printed in this QUARTERLY, I (July 1922), 74-79.  For further information concerning him see Simeon Ide, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:., and Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>We got into the Sacramento Valley the last of October, and went to Sutter's Fort, and there I was employed as a whipsawyer with Henry Marshall who came out with us.  The lumber was to build a schooner on the headwaters of the Cosumnes River, fifty miles from the Fort.  We cut a good deal of lumber.  While there an Indian came in who had never seen a white man; he had a hat made like their baskets and all covered with feathers.  I traded him a white shirt for it, and afterwards traded it to a Mormon for a horse.  We went in to the Fort in the fall of 1845.  Captain Sutter sent for us, and the lumber got to the Fort a few days before Christmas.  He gave us $30 a thousand for lumber payable in goods.</P>
116.sgm:<P>We then entered into a contract with Mr. Hardy who owned a great estate at the mouth of the Feather River where the town of Sacramento was.<ANCHOR ID="n3-99">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-99">See Note 15.  On December 27, 1845, Sutter "Started H. Trow for Hardy's--also started Gregson for do."  <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<P>I went to work digging a ditch for Captain Sutter with Henry Marshall, at $2.50 a rod, a foot wide at the top and four feet deep, and two feet at the bottom.<ANCHOR ID="n3-100">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: We worked at this Fort until the war began.  When we first came in we heard that Sutter was favorable to the Americans.  Then I went to work for the Captain at anything he wanted.  Soon after we got in, a proclamation was read notifying the Americans to leave.  After it was read Sutter told us to stand by him and he would stand by us.<ANCHOR ID="n3-101">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-100">On February 4, 1846, Gregson commenced working again for Sutter, and on May 18 he and Marshall finished the ditch.  <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-101">This was on October 21, 1845.  See Note 18.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>Fre&acute;mont came to the Fort in February 1846.  In the fight with the Klamath Indians Captain Gillespie killed an Indian with a coat of mail made of wood slats and a warp of sinew.  I saw the coat of mail when it was shewn to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:<P>I was at Sutter's Fort when Vallejo and the Bear Flag prisoners [were there and] took my regular turn as a guard of the prisoners.  I had been enlisted into the services of the United States for three months at $12 per month.  [When I] guarded the men they all appeared quiet.  We used to take them out to exercise--Bob Ridley, J. P. Leese, Victor Prudon, Salvador and General Vallejo--then stood guard over them.  I stayed there until they were released on parole.  Then I enlisted in the California Battalion in Captain Brown's Company and went down to meet Fre&acute;mont at Monterey.  We had no trouble until we got to San Juan South.  We had twelve Walla Walla Indians along, Captain Burris [Charles Burroughs] in command.</P>
116.sgm:<P>We saw the long glittering lances of the Mexicans as we got into the plain.  We were joined about this time by Captain Weaver [Charles M. Weber] and thirty men which gave us about sixty men.  The sun was about an hour high when the fight began.  We had eight hundred head of horses and four pieces of artillery.  We put the horses in the corral at the Gomez ranch and left a dozen men to guard them and took part and fought two hundred Mexicans with fifty men.  We formed in line and counted off.  Captain Burris [Burroughs] said for No. 1 to fire while No. 2 was to hold his fire, but we soon got mixed up and fired on the Indians who were in advance and fell back, and the Mexicans charged us boldly and we give them the best we had and charged at them.  I was close to Burris [Burroughs] when he fell, the captain of the Mexicans killed him, he rode up close to him, and fired, I thought with a pistol.  Burris [Burroughs] was killed before we could get him to the rear.  We lost a man named Ames and Billy the Cooper of Weaver's [Weber's] Company, and Foster who was a lieutenant.  All killed with musket balls or pistols.<ANCHOR ID="n3-102">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-102">See Note 33. Swasey, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>After the charge we held the ground.  We thought we killed ten of the Mexicans; they retreated.  We went to Gomez's house and got two men to go to Monterey and tell Fre&acute;mont we were there--they got in safely and told Fre&acute;mont.  We buried our dead, when Fre&acute;mont came up with three hundred men and we all then went to the Mission of San Juan and encamped.  Most of us were enlisted into Captain Ford's Company.<ANCHOR ID="n3-103">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-103">Henry L. Ford was captain of Co. B of the California Battalion.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>We crossed the Santa Inez Mountain on Christmas day in a dreadful storm, lost fifteen head of horses, left cannon on the mountain and went down a trail.  We might have gone through Gaviota Pass.  One of the most noted things that happened was just before we got to San Luis Obispo on the Salmon.  We captured an Indian with dispatches, shot him and went on to San Luis Obispo and caught Pico, caught him in bed, surrounded the house and took him down to San Luis Obispo that night and tried him by court <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:martial.  [He was] found guilty of violating his parole and sentenced to be shot.  We thought he would be shot.  We were marshaled out and Fre&acute;mont released him on the condition that he would stay with and pilot us over the mountains.  His family came and begged for him.  The boys thought it was a shame to kill the Indian and not Pico.<ANCHOR ID="n3-104">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-104">This was not Pio or Andre&acute;s Pico but their cousin Jose&acute; de Jesus Pico.  See John Charles Fre&acute;mont, <HI REND="italics">Memoirs of My Life</HI>
116.sgm: Chicago, 1887), pp. 598-99, and Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<P>At Santa Barbara we had no trouble.  We lived on beef, had no bread.  We had with us about 450 men.  As we left San Buena Ventura the Mexicans rode up on top of the hill and the next morning we marched out in battle order, artillery in the center.  The Mexicans came out and Fre&acute;mont got scared and ordered us up a hollow.<HSEP>We could not get through and had to come back, and camped on the Santa Anna River [Santa Clara River].  There we had no trouble until we got to Los Angeles--and had none there.</P>
116.sgm:<P>I came up by land to San Francisco in the spring of 1847 with ten Mexicans.  We were given ten dollars apiece and indebted to Major Reading for this.<ANCHOR ID="n3-105">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: We came up by the coast.  All shipped at Santa Clara and I went on to San Francisco and gave up my horse.  I was in San Francisco without money, and I had to buy clothes from a sailor.  I was standing on Black's Point.<ANCHOR ID="n3-106">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: 1st Lieutenant Revere<ANCHOR ID="n3-107">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: came up and asked me what man-of-war I belonged to.  I told him I did not belong to any.  He asked me if I had no coat.  I told him "No" and showed him my papers.  He told me to come the next day and he would give me a coat, which he did.  I had nothing to eat and asked him if he could not give me an order to get something.  He said that he had nothing, but to come tomorrow and see Captain Dupont.<ANCHOR ID="n3-108">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: The next day I met Captain Dupont and asked him to give me something to eat until I could get to Sacramento.  I lived in San Francisco three months and crossed to Sonoma with J. P. Leese in the sloop <HI REND="italics">Amelia</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-105">Major Pierson B. Reading was the paymaster of the California Battalion.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-106">Black Point, the site of the present Fort Mason, at the end of Van Ness Avenue.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-107">Lieutenant Joseph Warren Revere, of the <HI REND="italics">Cyane</HI>
116.sgm:, who had raised the United States Flag at Sonoma in July, remained in command of the northern district for several months.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-108">Samuel F. Dupont, commander of the <HI REND="italics">U.S.S.  Congress</HI>
116.sgm: and later of the <HI REND="italics">Cyane</HI>
116.sgm:<P>I paid in work to Captain Sutter for my wifes relations [rations?]  while I was gone, and I never got but ten dollars for my services and a 120-acre land warrant; this was the summer of 1847.  Myself and a man named Lenox helped to get out the large mill stones for Captain Sutter's grist mill on the American River,<ANCHOR ID="n3-109">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: then we made a contract to do the blacksmithing for Sutter and Marshall who were partners in building a saw mill at Colusa [Coloma] where gold was discovered.  Up to this time I had not heard of gold.  Where I first worked with the whipsaw was afterwards all worked out for gold.  My wife was to cook for one or two men.  I was to work for three years, to be paid in cattle.  The morning we were to start for Colusa [Coloma] from Sutter's Fort, Marshall came into the Fort with a little vial of about an ounce, greenish glass, which was over half full of scale gold.<ANCHOR ID="n3-110">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: I looked at it and this was the first gold seen in the country.  That vial was sent to Capt. [Joseph L.] Folsom in San Francisco, and in six weeks there came back word it was gold of fine quality.  It was sent down on the old launch.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
116.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
116.sgm:I think Major McKinstry took it down, a cousin of Judge [E. W.] McKinstry.<ANCHOR ID="n3-111">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-109">See Note 46.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-110">See Bekeart, <HI REND="italics">op. cit</HI>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-111">Marshall arrived at the fort "on very important business" on January 28.  <HI REND="italics">N.H. Diary</HI>
116.sgm:<P>I went up to the mill with my wife and went to work.  There were a number of men there, five or six white men.  I recollect Weaver<ANCHOR ID="n3-112">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-112">A Mormon named Weaver (Franklin or Miles) was one of the workmen on Sutter's flour mill at the time gold was discovered.   Reva Holdaway Stanley, "Sutter's Mormon Workmen at Natoma and Coloma in 1848," in this QUARTERLY, XIV (September 1935), 278.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>Myself, Marshall, Humphries, and Bennett were living together in a double cabin.  Soon as we got word it was gold I said to Marshall: "Let us go up the river, the south fork of the American River, and see if we can't find some gold."  We had a pick and pan.  We went up the river three miles to a bar and called it Live Oak Bar.  We went out on the bar and picked out lump gold of the size of a bean with our fingers, without digging--in all a pint cupful.  I said,"This lets up our contract.  Now," says I, "James, suppose we divide this gold."  "No," says he, "I don't divide.  You are a hired man."  I said, "That ends our contract."  The next day I went back and dug and took out a good deal for myself.  It was the first prospecting  done.</P>
116.sgm:<P>The people flocked in after that, and I got sick and had to come to Sonoma.  I brought down about $3,000 in the fall of 1848. I went back in 1849, in the spring, and worked three months and came back.  While in the mines we found a man deserted, on the middle fork of the Feather River.  He had chronic diarrhoea.  Mills visited  him.  At last one morning he was found dead.  He had written on  a tin plate, "Deserted by my friends, but not by my God."  My partner was named Mills--perhaps it was D. O. Mills<ANCHOR ID="n3-113">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm: --he and me were working together.  Some young fellows came into Spanish Bar<ANCHOR ID="n3-114">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-113">This could not have been D. O. Mills, for the man who was to become the well-known banker did not reach California until June 1849 and immediately embarked on a trading trip up the San Joaquin River.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-114">Spanish Bar, on the Middle Fork of the American River, above the junction of the North and South forks, was one  of the most important points on the stream.  Because the gold found there was coarser than in many other places, the profits were larger, and the place later produced more than a million dollars.</NOTE>
116.sgm:<P>We left with eight hundred dollars and came back to Sonoma in the fall of 1849 and have been here ever since.  I bought land of Captain Cooper.  I have a daughter who is now Mrs. Robert Reid of San Luis Obispo, who was born at Sutter's Fort, September 15, 1846.   She was the first white child born in the Sacramento Valley.<ANCHOR ID="n3-115">*</ANCHOR>
116.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-115">This was Ann E. (or Annie), born on September 3, 1846, according to Mrs. Gregson and the <HI REND="italics">History of Sonoma County</HI>
118.sgm:<text type="publication"><BODY><div><pageinfo><controlpgno>1</controlpgno>
120.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-120</TITLE>
120.sgm:<TITLE>Personal adventures in Upper and Lower California, in 1848-9; with the author's experience at the mines. Illustrated by twenty-three drawings ...By William Redmond Ryan ...: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
120.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
120.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
120.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
120.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
120.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
120.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
120.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc01-816</LCCN>
120.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
120.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
120.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P><illus entity="a120-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE PRINCIPAL STREET OF SAN FRANCISCO.  W. Shoberl, Publisher, 20. Gt. Marlborough Street, 1850.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>PERSONAL ADVENTURES</P>
120.sgm:<P>IN</P>
120.sgm:<P>UPPER</P>
120.sgm:<P>AND</P>
120.sgm:<P>LOWER CALIFORNIA,</P>
120.sgm:<P>IN 1848-9;</P>
120.sgm:<P>WITH THE AUTHOR'S EXPERIENCE AT THE MINES.</P>
120.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-THREE DRAWINGS, TAKEN ON</P>
120.sgm:<P>THE SPOT.</P>
120.sgm:<P>BY</P>
120.sgm:<P>WILLIAM REDMOND RYAN.</P>
120.sgm:<P>IN TWO VOLUMES.</P>
120.sgm:<P>VOL. I.</P>
120.sgm:<P>LONDON:</P>
120.sgm:<P>WILLIAM SHOBERL, PUBLISHER,</P>
120.sgm:<P>20, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.</P>
120.sgm:<P>1850.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>F. Shoberl, Jun., Printer to H.R.H. Prince Albert, Rupert Street.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>The following sketches were not originally intended to meet the public eye, having been hastily thrown off for the amusement of the writer's family in England; and now, if in yielding to the earnest and repeated solicitations of perhaps over-zealous and too partial friends, he should subject himself to the charge of temerity, by giving them a more extended circulation, he trusts that some indulgence will be shown him, on the ground that the scenes he describes have excited more than a passing interest in the public mind, and that little has as yet been published that is calculated to satisfy it.  If time had admitted of it, the Author would have preferred giving the narrative some other form <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>In explanation of the motives that induced the writer to venture upon so distant an expedition--for they were somewhat different from those that influence the feverish speculations of the present day--it will be sufficient to state that he was one of those restless spirits, who, during the late war between the United States and Mexico, sought relief from the monotony of civilized life, in a more congenial and adventurous existence amidst the wilds and mountains of California.  That country had just begun to attract the eager regards of the American democrats, who, appreciating its happy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:geographical position, and the advantages to be derived from its fine harbours, could not fail to see in this acquisition another gigantic stride towards the fulfilment of their boasted destiny.  The favourable accounts, too, which had been recently received, from some few writers and travellers, of its capabilities for agricultural as well as for commercial purposes, tended in no small degree to inflame the general desire to add this "bright particular star" to the national constellation.  The author must confess to his not having been altogether uninfluenced by the latter feeling, so thoroughly does a lengthened residence in the States imbue a foreigner with the prevailing spirit of the people; while his tastes as an artist were no less excited by the glowing descriptions that had been received of the sunny skies and genial atmosphere of this new-born Italy.  He longed for the warmth and brightness of a tropical climate, and hoped that, even a few degrees further north, on the Pacific side, he might experience an improvement <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>March 25, 1850.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>VOL. I.<HSEP>PAGE<LB>Principal Street of San Francisco<HSEP> ( <HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
120.sgm:.)<LB>Monterey<HSEP>75<LB>A Watering-place--Lower California<HSEP>98<LB>Mountain Scenery--Lower California<HSEP>128<LB>Specimen of Bamboo Houses in general use in Lower California<HSEP>138<LB>Sketch during the war--Lower California<HSEP>141<LB>San Jose&acute;<HSEP>186<LB>On the Road to the Mines<HSEP>252<LB>On the Road to the Mines--Encamping for the night<HSEP>280<LB>On the Road to the Mines--Burning Trees for a Campfire<HSEP>302</P>
120.sgm:<P>VOL. II.<LB>The Stanislaus Mine<HSEP>(<HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
120.sgm:.)<LB>Sonoreans Dry-washing Gold<HSEP>13<LB>Gold rocker--Washing pan--Gold borer<HSEP>16<LB>Life at the "diggins"--Supper time<HSEP>30<LB>Trading-post in the Mines<HSEP>47 <HI REND="italics">Ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm: in Upper California<HSEP>78<LB>Going to a Fandango<HSEP>110<LB>Sacramento City<HSEP>162<LB>How to turn a Ship's Cooking-galley into a Cafe&acute; Restaurant<HSEP>192<LB>Gambling Scene in San Francisco<HSEP>212<LB>A Serenade--Upper California<HSEP>288<LB>One of the Old Spanish Houses in San Francisco--Scene near "the Hollow"<HSEP>260<LB>Isthmus of Panama--The Return Home<HSEP>386</P>
120.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>PERSONAL ADVENTURES</P>
120.sgm:<P>IN</P>
120.sgm:<P>UPPER AND LOWER CALIFORNIA.</P>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>Departure for Fort Hamilton--Initiation into the hardships of a military career--"There is a bright side to every thing"--Sketches from Life--An odd compound of opposite qualities--A Swedish kit--Eugene O'Reily--A German Esculapius and a Yankee quack--An awkward subject for the drill-sergeant--Foray in the farmyards--Our Captain's exordium and peroration--Peculiarities of the Volunteer service.</P>
120.sgm:<P>There is no career, however humble, which drags its slow length along unmarked by some eventful epoch, whether of joy or grief--some passage in the monotonous routine of an obscure existence, which serves to indicate the long, dull stages of our journey to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Such was the day on which I joined the band of hardy adventurers who had resolved to stake their lives on the conquest and settlement of a region so distant, that even to reach it involved no ordinary amount of peril.  I had wound up all my affairs in New York the previous evening, and severed, as I then thought for ever, the many ties that bound me to a place in which I had passed some of the happiest, though, at the same time, some of the most anxious moments of my life.  There were few amongst us who cared much as to the chances of our revisiting the scenes we were then quitting; for we were, for the most part, thoroughly sick of the life of large cities, and exaggerated to ourselves the delights of a pastoral existence in a new settlement, in which both climate and soil were supposed to render the allotted duties of man more of a pastime <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I arrived at Fort Hamilton in the beginning of June, 1847, and found assembled there nearly the full complement of persons deemed necessary for the expedition.  They were, for the most part, composed of intelligent and, in some instances, well-educated young men, dashed, as in all such enterprises, with a sprinkling of the wild and reckless spirits to be found in all the Atlantic cities.  This diversity of habits and character was to be expected, from the nature of the service on which we had volunteered; the military portion of it, as in the case of the old Roman colonists, being regarded merely as a period <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Although fully prepared "to rough it," even in the American sense of the term, our initiation into the hardships of a military career, during a sojourn of several months at the fort, realized, at the outset, our worst anticipations, and there were few amongst us who would not have gladly exchanged for active service in the field the confinement and discomfort that we endured here previous to our embarkation.  Between severe and constant drilling, and the most culpable irregularity in the supply of provisions, we had a tolerable foretaste of what we should have to encounter when we came to deal with the sterner realities of a soldier's life.  And yet, strange to say, although the previous habits and education of many amongst this motley assemblage of adventurers of different nations but ill adapted them for the privations and dull uniformity of this sort of life, and still less for the close companionship of the uncongenial spirits with whom they were compelled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>And, after all, there <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
120.sgm:<P>The butt of the detachment, and general target for the witlings, was a young Swede named Wettermark, who presented in his person a curious compound of the most opposite qualities.  Brave as a lion, yet querulous under privations; deeply read, yet simple as a child; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Not less curious than the strange jumble of miscellaneous acquirements laid up to rust in the mental storehouse of this eccentric being, were the contents of his compendious kit, the proportions of which had never struck his simple brain to be incompatible with the exigencies of "light marching order," or of rapid evolutions executed in mountainous and hostile regions.  His chest, a specimen of the mechanical skill of the "fatherland," and which, without forcing a simile, might not unaptly be compared to a sarcophagus, was crammed to overflowing with the <HI REND="italics">collectanea</HI>
120.sgm: of many industriously spent years.  Editions of the classics, the works of Goe&uml;the, Schiller, and Lessing, the novels of Dumas and Madame Dudevant, were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>It is scarcely necessary to add, that the proprietor of this curious medley possessed habits of untiring industry; for, when not engaged in reading, he generally occupied himself with some branch or other of the arts, although not precisely those that are generally supposed to be akin to or congenial with literary tastes.  To sum up his accomplishments, he could translate the plays of the Greek dramatists, solve a problem in Euclid, play the overture to an opera, manufacture a writing-desk, and--I blush to say it--solder a tin kettle.  And yet, of these varied acquirements, the poor fellow had never been able to make a single profitable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Having attempted to sketch the Swede, the portrait would be incomplete without its attendant shadow, Mr. Eugene O'Reilly, a good-hearted fellow in the main, but, like the generality of his countrymen, somewhat addicted to the perpetration of practical jokes--in a word, the Mickey Free of our company.  Possessed of an inimitable talent for mimicry, the peculiarities of Wettermark acquired an additional raciness in the imitations of the Irishman, who seemed to hang upon his every accent, and to make him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>O'Reilly was not without his own weaknesses, the most prominent and inconvenient of which was a rather exaggerated estimate of his vocal powers.  Without a note in his voice that could be strained into the execution of the simplest air, and without the slightest ear for music, he was perpetually inflicting upon us his primitive notions of melody.  He accepted the roar of laughter with which these displays were usually received, as a testimony of the high degree of appreciation in which we held them; and, indeed, if he had been susceptible enough to divine the truth, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Then we had two disciples of Galen: and, as Nature delights in contrasts, it would be difficult to find two beings more dissimilar in character or appearance.  Dr. Freu&uml;nd was a regularly educated and licensed experimenter on the human frame; while Dr. Judson--Hank Judson, as he was familiarly called--owed the whole of his professional reputation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The German physician was a tall, muscular man, with a most forbidding countenance, to which a pair of enormous moustaches imparted additional fierceness.  And yet the husk belied the kernel, for no man could be milder or more inoffensive, except when he came in collision with Judson, to whom he seemed to have a sort of natural as well as professional antipathy.  Owing to the effects of a long incarceration, to which he had been subjected for some political offence in his own country, he was liable to nervous attacks of a most distressing nature, under the influence of which his powerful frame became convulsed to such a degree, that the exhaustion which succeeded left him as helpless as an infant.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Judson was a thin, wiry little Yankee, with a face like a hatchet, to which the body <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Freu&uml;nd took but little pains to conceal his contempt and dislike of the quack; and the latter, being afraid to resort to any overt act of retaliation against his formidable-looking rival, who could have crushed him like an insect, quietly awaited his opportunity until the German was prostrated by one of his periodical attacks.  Then, approaching him cautiously, and taking care to maintain a safe distance between them, he commenced the assault in the following ingenious and characteristic manner.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"How do you feel now, Doctor?"  No answer.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"The paroxysm is over, I guess?  Now, if you would be guided by my advice--"</P>
120.sgm:<P>A groan and convulsive spasm.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"You would leave off drugging yourself with your sulphates and muriates, which only have the effect of tanning the coats of your stomach--"</P>
120.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Oh! verdammter quack</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"And of converting you into the shrivelled up and desiccated proportions of an Egyptian mummy.  Why, man, your cuticle is already dark enough to make mourning gloves for your family."</P>
120.sgm:<P>Another groan, the Doctor's eyes rolling wildly about in search of the nearest projectile.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"If you were to study nature more, and your absurd pharmacopoeia less, I calculate you would soon be as slick as a four-year old."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Kreutz donner-wetter</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"Why don't you try my hemostatic pills?  They are free from minerals, and are composed merely of those simple botanical remedies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Der teufel hohl dich</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"You licensed practitioners are obstinate creatures.  You fancy you know all about pathology and physiology, whilst you actually create the diseases you pretend to treat.  I cannot help saying that a more ignorant and benighted set--"</P>
120.sgm:<P>Here this complimentary allocution was suddenly brought to a termination, by a camp stool, which the Doctor's returning strength had placed within his reach, describing sundry gyrations round the Yankee's head, and putting him effectually to flight.</P>
120.sgm:<P>One of the most popular men of the detachment, owing to the amusement which he afforded us, was Johnny Broghan, as genial a little soul as ever ripened into mellowness under the combined influence of love and wine, with a rubicund and oleaginous countenance, stuck forward like an excrescence on a short, puffy figure, and resembling as nearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:as possible, in his <HI REND="italics">ensemble</HI>
120.sgm:, that <HI REND="italics">lusus</HI>
120.sgm:<P>What his motives were for again embracing a profession in which he had cut so unhappy a figure, we never could make out, for his ancient infirmities seemed to have increased instead of diminished; his mode of progression, owing to another little weakness that had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Although our commanding officer had been only temporarily placed at our head, and had no intention of accompanying the expedition, it would not be fair to pass him over without notice, inasmuch as it would be difficult to find a more perfect specimen of a class not unfrequently to be met with in the States, although in Europe only familiar to us in the traditions that have consecrated the memory of Major Dalgetty.  He was possessed of the true Yankee trading spirit, and regarded the profession of arms in a purely military light.  Like his uncle, Colonel Jonathan D. S--, who got such a hard name for his regiment, by charging bayonets on a sheriff's officer, who had disturbed his afternoon <HI REND="italics">siesta</HI>
120.sgm:, it was supposed, I know not with how much justice, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>A circumstance, although trivial in itself, which occurred shortly after my arrival, will serve to illustrate thoroughly the character of the man.  I have already alluded to the irregularity of the supplies of provisions furnished to us, and on one occasion "the pressure from within" became so great, that several of the scamps of the detachment sallied out at night for a foray through the portholes of the fort, and committed extensive depredations on the neighbouring gardens and poultry-yards.  This was beginning the campaign rather early; and the result was, that a strong remonstrance was instantly forwarded to the captain's residence in the city, and he hastened to the fort in anticipation of a mutiny.  The men were immediately paraded; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:but, as usual, the sly smile and whispered jest that passed along the line showed that they laboured under no very great degree of apprehension.  Our worthy commander, assuming an air of sternness calculated to make an impression on the injured parties, who were called in to assist at the scene, addressed the detachment in a speech of such indignant eloquence, that it was evident the wound inflicted on his sense of military honour would be difficult to heal.  He threatened to inflict the severest punishment on the marauders, in case he should succeed in finding them out--an event, owing to the proverbial good nature of the captain, amongst the remotest of all possible contingencies; and in one short hour after, when the crowd had dispersed, and whilst the tones of his stern admonition were still ringing in our ears, our worthy chief was seated before a fine bird which had formed part of the booty, and which he pronounced excellent, qualifying his eulogium only by the expression of his regret that, as we had run the risk of taking the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Having dashed off these few hurried sketches, in order to give the reader some idea of the heterogeneous elements of which the expedition was composed, it becomes necessary for me to say a few words respecting the organization of the force itself; as otherwise the laxity of discipline apparent in the foregoing details may appear strange to those unacquainted with the volunteer service of the States.  The system is based upon the erroneous notion of republican equality being compatible with the requirements of a service which is in itself a pure despotism; for the corporal is as much a despot, with reference to the private soldier, as the commander-in-chief, whose absolute commands all are bound to obey, from the next in authority under him, down to the lowest man in the ranks.  In order to soften down the arbitrary distinctions of the military service--distinctions so repugnant to American prejudices, on the score of equality--the men are permitted to choose their own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>I may, however, state, that the volunteers have frequently found themselves placed under officers, who, although disposed to indulge them to the very verge of weakness, were not inclined to concede to them their assumed right of disobedience, and who have not failed, in cases of insubordination, to teach them that, notwithstanding the many privileges they enjoy, they are, for the term of their service, as much bound by the regulations of the army as the regular forces, and equally punishable for offences against discipline.  But the volunteers never can become thorough soldiers, under the present system; and I feel convinced that nothing but their individual daring and courage, under the direction of the few properly trained military men whose judgment and determination guided their reckless valour, and brought it to bear at the opportune moment, could have carried them through the many dangers they had to encounter, or enabled them to accomplish as much as they effected during the Mexican war.</P>
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120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>The Departure--Tribulations on Board--The Greeneyed Monster--The rail to Philadelphia--On Board again--Captain Briggs' elocution--The Atlantic--Scenes and incidents at Sea--Crossing the Line--A Wreck--News of Friends--Arrival at Rio de Janeiro.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The 15th of August, the day of our departure, at length arrived, with its excitement, its regrets, its bustle, and its leave-takings.  We were going, at last; but whither, few amongst us knew, and many cared not: indeed, as I have before said, none of us entertained any very sanguine ideas of ever returning; for, at this period, the steadier portion of the community regarded a voyage to California in the light of an enterprise approximating in sanity to an expedition to the moon, respecting which, in fact, much more was known.  Nevertheless, the scene was one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Here and there, lovers had coupled off, and were making the most of the few remaining minutes they had to spend together; a melancholy enjoyment participated in by several married pairs, whose affectionate and prolonged farewell conveyed a tacit reproach to sundry other couples, who, in the bustle of the embarkation, were exchanging unconjugal compliments respecting the due stowage of the baggage and the children!  In another place were brothers, bidding adieu to tearful mothers and sisters, and to fathers who manfully checked the tide of grief as it sought its natural exit.  Of this class, but apart from the rest, were two fine young men, between whom the ties of consanguinity or of friendship had been drawn so close, as to render this parting the bitterest and most affecting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>We were so crowded, on board the schooner which was to convey us down to the steamer, that there ensued an incessant struggle on deck for breathing room: to walk about was impossible; to stand or to sit with comfort equally so; and below, suffocation appeared imminent.  To increase our tribulation and uneasiness, we had to encounter the pangs of hunger; for we discovered that the cook had abandoned his post, and that there was no dinner.  At about eleven at night, we lay to off Castle Garden, when the outcry for food became so resolute, that our first lieutenant found it imperative to send ashore for provisions.  The embassy, however, not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:producing any result, inasmuch as the caterers did not make their appearance, it was judged advisable, about midnight, to despatch a second party in search of the delinquents, whom they found regaling themselves, and utterly oblivious of the cravings of their companions on board.  The two parties returned together, bringing a scanty supply of bread and cheese and beer, which rapidly disappeared, the distribution of the former being pretty fair, but that of the liquid being regulated by the law of the strongest and most enterprising.  However, in spite of short commons, comparative contentment was beginning to manifest itself, when the cry of "Murder!" was suddenly uttered, in a piercing scream, by one of the women.  There was a general rush to the hatch whence the shriek had proceeded, and where one of the sergeants and a lieutenant were seen engaged in what appeared a deadly struggle, each striving to throw the other overboard.  The officer, being the stronger man, soon succeeded in mastering his adversary, and, dragging him over the hatch, let <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>We never heard anything more of the affair, save that the fracas had originated in the marital jealousy of the sergeant, whose very pretty spouse having become the object of marked attention on the part of the lieutenant, the husband had resented the insult, by attempting to cool the ardour of his superior in the manner related.  Neither party sustained much injury; the husband came off worst, he having received a few severe contusions, from which he did not recover for a considerable time; whilst his opponent scarcely got a scratch, although his attire suffered greatly.  As no further notice was taken by the principals, I concluded that the act of military insubordination was accepted as a set-off against the breach of morality on the part of the lieutenant, and that this understanding, although tacit, was perfectly satisfactory to both.</P>
120.sgm:<P>With the exception of this incident, nothing occurred to disturb our reflections <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>The trip to the latter city was very pleasant, but outrageously noisy, for the entire detachment waxing patriotic, never ceased shouting "The Star-spangled Banner,"  "Columbia the Gem of the Ocean," and similar national effusions; but as each individual--true to his republican principles--sang independently of every one else, and the melodies were arbitrarily disfigured by a running accompaniment of shakes, caused by the unevenness of the rails, the effect of the whole was rather more startling than imposing or harmonious.  At least, I judged so from the astonishment depicted upon the countenances of the villagers, as they rushed out, with open mouth and eyes astare, to gaze at us, as we were whisked past their quiet habitations.</P>
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120.sgm:<P>On our arrival at Philadelphia, we repaired on board the Isabella, a fine packet-ship commanded by Captain George Briggs, to whose experience, good sense, equable conduct, and mild and gentlemanly deportment, I have much pleasure in here recording my testimony: qualities which secured him the good will and esteem of all who enjoyed the advantage of communication with him.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Here our <HI REND="italics">quondam</HI>
120.sgm:<P>The accommodations below consisted of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>We left Philadelphia on the nineteenth of August, 1847, and proceeded slowly down the Delaware, which was so shallow, in some places, and so winding in its course, as to offer serious obstacles to the progress of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>On our way down, our worthy captain took an opportunity of addressing his crew; and, as his speech was both pithy and characteristic, I thought it not unworthy a place in my note-book.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Men," said he, "we are beginning a long voyage, and I wish to give you a few words of advice.  Do your duty, and we shall remain good friends; neglect it, and you will find out who is master.  Don't interfere with the volunteers: your duties are distinct from theirs; and the less you have to do with them the better."  (Complimentary! thought I.)  "Lastly, avoid profane language and swearing, which are unbecoming to any man, even to a sailor; but if you must swear, I beg of you, as a favour, to let me have the benefit of the first oath.  You may now go for'ard."</P>
120.sgm:<P>Here we are, gliding over the vast Atlantic, and drawing near to Rio Janeiro, distant now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Our life on board was not of the pleasantest description, on account of the motley elements that entered into the composition of our society.  A band of volunteers, bound for a distant region, upon a roaming expedition, in search of better fortune, was not likely to prove other than a medley of characters, of various degrees of respectability, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>The between-decks were usually blocked up by boxes and trunks, and baggage of various descriptions, piled up and disposed in the most awkward positions imaginable, such as were available serving for seats and tables, at which the members of our company sat and played at cards, or other games of chance, cheating one another, when the opportunity presented itself; swearing lustily when their dishonesty was detected, or the tide of luck had set against them; and not unfrequently terminating their disputations and games by a general engagement, in which such missiles as were nearest to hand came into closer contact with individual heads and faces than was altogether pleasant for those who officiated as mere spectators.</P>
120.sgm:<P>This propensity for gambling, which seemed to be very prevalent, was, on one occasion, productive of a scene that well nigh terminated fatally.  The parties compromised were a Mr. B--and his wife; the latter a very young and rather pretty woman, but with "shew" very legibly written on her features.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:She had often, it seems, remonstrated with, then rated, then abused him, for indulging in this fatal passion, which necessarily impoverished them.  He turned a deaf ear, however, to her remonstrances, and was equally proof against her abuse.  On the evening in question she became so exasperated, that she seized a knife that he wore in his waist-belt, and dealt him a blow which, if it had struck him as intended, must have stretched him a corpse at her feet.  Fortunately, she missed her aim, owing to his nimbleness in evading the stroke, which, descending upon his bare arm--for he had his shirt-sleeves tucked up--laid it open, inflicting a ghastly wound.  Regardless of this mischief, and, possibly, apprehensive of a second attack, he dexterously closed with her, and wrung the weapon from her grasp, completing his victory by bearing her bodily to the ground, on which he held her as in a vice; until, after a determined conflict for the space of fifteen minutes, her strength gave way, and she succumbed.  The horror of this scene few who beheld it will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:ever forget.  Even in the midst of her struggles, she strove to bite; and, failing to revenge herself in this manner, spat in his face and kicked him, reckless of decency; finally, giving vent to her fury in language perfectly appalling in atrocity.  Several peacemakers stepped forward, and we believed their efforts had succeeded in allaying the tempest; when, on being liberated, she suddenly sprung upon her infant; and, with her hair all dishevelled, her face flushed with rage, and her eyes glaring with the frenzy of unnatural excitement, rushed up the companion-ladder, and made for the side of the vessel, evidently bent upon sacrificing the little infant, and, possibly, herself.  She was frustrated in her murderous intent by the interposition of the Captain, who snatched the child out of her arms, and forcibly detained her by pinning her back against the bulwarks.  He remonstrated with her very sensibly, but, I fear, with little permanent effect; although the result of his admonition was to bring the tears into her eyes, and to send her back, much dejected, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>A portion of the vessel amid-ships, which had been taken possession of by a dense multitude of traders and speculators, acquired, from this circumstance, the nickname of "Chatham Street," or the "Jewry," the majority being Israelites, or their connexions.  The shuffling, the confusion, the noise, and the chaffering, were indescribable, varied as the scene was by falls over boxes, and trunks, and bales of miscellaneous merchandize, and by "rough-and-tumble" fights, to say nothing of the jargon of tongues from every known country and kingdom, interspersed with the strangest oaths, the oddest jests, and the quaintest commentaries upon the quality, price, and manufacture, of the heterogeneous mass of articles put up for sale.  We were nearing Rio, and, therefore, every one wanted money, and sought to procure it as best he could.  As we proceeded, the love of barter appeared to increase, until it degenerated from legitimate trading into a system of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>I may here mention, that, amongst other modes of passing the time, the volunteers resorted to a recreation far more amusing to the spectators on such occasions, and to the actors in the comedy, than to him who was selected to figure the most prominently in it.  This was called "blanketing," the nature of which operation is, doubtless, sufficiently familiar to all not to require a special description at my hands.  It was not, at any time, decidedly popular; but so inveterate was the love of mischief in Judson, O'Reilly, and a few others, and so strong the party they got together to support them, that remonstrance and resistance were alike unavailing when they presented themselves to seize the victim on whom their evil eye had fallen.  Appeal to the Captain was alike useless; he stuck hard and fast to his text of "not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:interfering with the volunteers, so long as they endangered no lives by their pranks;" thus, almost every one's turn came round in time, although, from some cause I am unable to explain, mine was deferred until the last.  But I was not disposed to submit to the fate of the immortal Sancho Panza without at least making a stand against what I considered to be an invasion of individual rights; and, receiving from one of my companions an intimation that my hour was come, and my tormentors at hand, I made a bolt into the berths of the married folks, into which <HI REND="italics">sanctum</HI>
120.sgm: the band, however reckless and alive for mischief, durst not penetrate.  In vain they called upon me to "come out and be tossed like a man."  In vain Judson assured me, on the faith of his own experience, that "it was nothing more than a mouthful of wind."  In vain O'Reilly urged, as an additional inducement, that, if I would only "thry it once, he'd be tossed with me for company."  I was not to be seduced.  On the other hand, my companions were obstinate; a council was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:held, in which the two parties I have named took the lead.  I was in hopes they had renounced their project: not at all, as the sequel will show.  They had withdrawn, and I was about to repair to my bunk, after waiting some time, to make sure my tormentors were not lying in ambush; when suddenly there appeared the corporal of the guard, heading a file of men, their purpose being, as I was forthwith informed, to arrest me for violating the sanctity of the married quarters.  Compelled to yield to this authority, I came out of my sanctuary; when a loud laugh and a dance of exultation proclaimed the whole man&oelig;uvre to be a mere <HI REND="italics">ruse-de-guerre</HI>
120.sgm:<P>Another moment, and words, like myself, would have been literally tossed to the winds.  But I was resolute and indignant, and, drawing my bowie-knife, made so threatening a demonstration with it, that the foremost fell back much disconcerted.  I did not, however, intend murder.  I had certainly yielded to an awkward impulse of self-defence, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>I have no reason to believe that the ceremonies usually observed on crossing the line <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:were shorn of any of their magnificence on the occasion of our passage.  I confess I felt some surprise on beholding his Oceanic Majesty suddenly appear on deck--quite fresh from the coral caves of his dominions, as we were informed, wearing a bran-new New York "rowdy" hat, and with a face as black as the ace of spades; a fact, by the way, which O'Reilly accounted for by stating, that the god of the ocean had just come back from sweeping Mount Vesuvius, which every body knew "wasn't asy to cure of smoking."  However, as his Majesty's beard was unexceptionably classical, and his behests were not to be disputed, we took our turns at the tub, and submitted, with as good a grace as we could muster, to the tar-brush and iron hoop, although I am bound in honesty to admit, the attempt to assume a pleasant countenance under these circumstances proved a general failure.  Altogether, the ceremony passed off without any disagreeable incident; the fun, which was, as may be conceived, of the most rough and boisterous sort, lasting until every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Shortly before we reached Rio, there was great commotion on board one morning, occasioned by the look-out descrying a dismasted vessel, which, upon nearing, we discovered to be the "Mameluke."  She was the first craft of any kind that we had made out since we sailed; and the excitement consequent upon falling in with one under such distressing circumstances may be more readily imagined than described.  She lay on her star-board beam-ends, completely waterlogged, her masts gone by the board, her larboard bul-warks carried away, and the best portion of her cabin-front staved in by the force of the heavy seas she had encountered, and which were now making a clean breach over her, for the weather was very rough and squally.  She appeared to be strongly built, and could not long have left port, as her timbers were new, and her paint still fresh.  We strained our eyes in vain in search of crew or passengers; but of these, living or dead, there were no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Shortly after, we spoke the Brutus; it was then quite dusk, and tolerably calm.  She was returning to New York from California; and we learned, with much pleasure, that the body of volunteers she had conveyed thither had arrived safely at their destination.  We received this intelligence with three cheers, it being regarded as a favourable omen, and in the afternoon of the 29th of October we entered the port of Rio de Janeiro.</P>
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120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>Rio de Janeiro--Bumboat Joe--Symptoms of mutiny aboard--Volunteer discipline--Scenes on shore--Slaves and slavery--Visit to a monastery--A frolic and its consequences--Glorious news--Adieu to Rio.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We cast anchor at a considerable distance from the town, and not far from a small English war-craft, of which we had clumsily run foul whilst coming round to our position, though without doing or receiving much damage.  The harbour and the town have been so frequently and so well described, that I shall content myself with stating little more than that both are eminently picturesque.  The former is partially surrounded with lofty and shadowy hills, which seen early in the morning, before the sun has entirely dispersed the mists peculiar to this latitude, with the houses of the town peeping out of the vapours as they roll up the romantic declivities and crags <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>We had not got comfortably moored when we were besieged by a fleet of bumboats, as they are called, veritable canoes, paddled in true Indian style, and manned by swarthy-complexioned men and women, more than three parts naked, all striving to be first in the scramble to supply us with bananas, plantains, water-melons, cakes, cheese, bread, sardines, cigars, &amp;c., articles which disappeared with a celerity savouring of magic, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:such delicacies were unknown on board.  The confusion was immense, and the supply of edibles unequal to the demand, until Bumboat Joe--the Napoleon of these aquatic caterers--appeared in proper person, bringing an abundance of similar luxuries, so that at length every one procured a sufficiency.  I may mention, <HI REND="italics">en passant</HI>
120.sgm:, that Joe is a character well known to those who frequent the South Atlantic shores.  He is about four feet six in height, but I will not venture upon a calculation of his girth.  To say he is as broad as he is long, would fail to convey any adequate idea of his outline; but if the reader can fancy an animated butter-firkin propped up on two nine-pins, and surmounted by a Dutch cheese, he may realize a faint image of Bumboat Joe.  He is a great favourite amongst the sailors, on account of his drollness, not only of appearance, but of speech, which is a cross of his own, between English and Portuguese, the latter being his native tongue.  He is about fifty years of age, and has passed the whole of his life in a bumboat.  He is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>We soon learned that our stay at Rio would be limited to the time necessary to repair our vessel--of which the foremast had received severe damage during a recent heavy gale--and to take in a proper supply of provisions, to wit, fresh biscuit and salt horse; for I may as well mention here, that the ordinary regulations with regard to victualling us had not been acted upon, probably because we were <HI REND="italics">only volunteers</HI>
120.sgm:, or irregulars, and irregularity in everything connected with us, or with our comforts, was considered a matter of course.  However, in consequence of certain remonstrances addressed to the Consul, some of the officers belonging to the flag-ship Ohio--not unworthily called the pride of the American navy--boarded us, and soon after sent a portion of her crew to assist in repairing our damage, and in getting the requisite stores on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>On one of these occasions, one of our comrades involved himself in rather an awkward scrape.  Having been indulging in deep potations, he picked a quarrel with the first Spaniard that he met, and, by way of a joke, knocked him down; but scarcely was the blow struck, than he was surrounded by eight armed soldiers, who, to carry the jest a little further, conveyed him to the black-hole, in which he soon found himself in the pleasant society of a select number of the&acute; <HI REND="italics">lazzaroni</HI>
120.sgm: of Rio.  He was searched, and a knife being found upon him, the case assumed rather a serious aspect; for, in consequence of several sanguinary frays having occurred between the Spanish and the American irregulars, who seemed ever on the alert for mischief of this sort, the local government had determined to make an example of the next offender.  What <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>One of our men asked leave one day to go ashore, which was refused, as it was his turn to remain on board.  Upon this, a furious quarrel ensued between him and the second lieutenant, who had mortally offended him by this refusal, and the result was, that the refractory volunteer was put into irons and kept a close prisoner for several days.  But he was not disposed to let the matter end there; and spying a boat shortly after his release, he beckoned the boatman alongside, and slid down into his canoe, bidding him make in all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:haste for the shore.  His escape was soon discovered, and the second lieutenant roared out to him most lustily to come back.  But the delinquent thrust a piece of money into the hand of the boatman, who, puzzled what to do, had ceased pulling, and folding his arms, stood upright in the boat, whistling "Yankee Doodle."  Again the officer shouted, again the boatman stopped, and a second piece of money again induced him to continue pulling towards shore.  Perceiving that shouts availed nothing, half a dozen men were ordered to the side of the ship; the second lieutenant gave the word to "make ready;" still the boat proceeded: "present;" she quickened her speed: "fire;" and fire they did, but at some imaginary object somewhere about a mile above the head of the fugitive, for your true American volunteer knows better than to shoot his brother-in-arms, under such circumstances.  When the smoke of their pieces had blown aside, the bold fellow who had put us all in such a fright was seen, still erect in the boat, with his thumb to the tip of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>It so chanced that my turn ashore came next in rotation, and that I and two others received instructions to arrest the culprit, and bring him back with us; but I soon discovered that, whatever might be my own ideas on the subject, nothing was farther from the intention of my companions than to obey these orders.  Indeed, the mutinous spirit on board had developed itself to such an extent, in consequence of the restrictions imposed on the liberty of the volunteers, that one morning there came from the Ohio, with other articles, an extra supply of handcuffs for the special use of the refractory.  With reference to the errand on which we were sent, I finally reasoned myself into the conviction, that it would be best for me to prove myself a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>We landed in high spirits, and were soon, as O'Reilly expressed it, "throwing our eyes about us."  I was greatly delighted with the town, on account of the varied scenes it presented; but as we turned the corner of one of the streets, my thoughts were suddenly diverted into a very different channel by our stumbling all at once upon several African slaves, more of whom we subsequently met in almost every second thoroughfare.  They were unmanacled it is true, but the brand of ownership had left its indelible stamp upon their flesh, in all the horrible variety that the fancy or caprice of their taskmasters could devise.  Rows of hideous lumps on the cheek, indentations seared into the forehead, ugly scars on the neck, and in numerous instances <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>I may here mention, incidentally to this subject, that one dark night one of our crew was caught in the act of putting off in the water-boat to a slaver that lay snugly to in a remote corner of the harbour.  He confessed that the captain of the slaver--who, I well remember, had been on board our vessel a few days previously--had made him tempting offers to induce him to join his ship on the next cruise.  He yielded, but, as I have observed, was apprehended in the act of desertion.  The same captain had tampered with the other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>To return to our rambles on shore: we made for the monastery on the hill, where we were extremely well received and hospitably entertained.  I was much struck with the appearance, manners, and intelligence of one of the monks, a man of tall stature and lean habit of body, but remarkably handsome, and of a most benevolent countenance.  I tried my Spanish, but could not get on, and he was equally at a loss to make us understand his English.  Fortunately, I bethought me of my French, in which he was proficient, and I was appointed interpreter.  My office proved no sinecure; for what with the inquisitiveness of my Yankee friend, the volubility of O'Reilly, and the cross-questioning of the priest, I found enough to do.  Our conversation embraced a variety of topics, as may readily be supposed.  The monk asked me all sorts of questions about England, her institutions, people, commerce, and so forth; interrogated the Yankee respecting the States, Congress, Zachary Taylor, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We resumed our peregrinations until it was growing late in the evening.  I began to think <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:about the ship, but my companions, whose libations had awakened their spirit of mischief, vowed they would not return until they had had some fun; to which O'Reilly added, "And a thrifle of a scrimmage, just to keep our hands in."  Remonstrances were useless, and flight impracticable, for I was safely secured on each side, and I resigned myself to my fate, which I anticipated would soon be incarceration with the <HI REND="italics">lazzaroni</HI>
120.sgm:.  In this mood, we came upon the "Plaza," at the lower end of which we espied the carriage of the Emperor, drawn up in front of one of the large houses, and around it several of our comrades standing admiringly.  A shout of glee, simultaneous with the recognition, rang through the square, and then a council was held to determine what mischievous frolic we should perpetrate.  O'Reilly cast a side-look at the unoccupied carriage, at the stately coachman on the box, and at the magnificently liveried domestics who were chatting lazily in the doorway.  He said something to Judson, who whispered it to a second, and both proceeded very leisurely to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>But this state of things could not continue, and we were soon warned of an approaching climax, by the shouts of the crowd, now in hot pursuit of us, and by the turning out of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:guard, as we again neared the Plaza, whence we had started.  With great dexterity, Judson seized the reins, and brought the vehicle to a stand-still, with a jolt that caused the inside-passengers to rub noses, after rather a disagreeable fashion.  To "bonnet" the coachman, to slip down from the box, and to disappear, were the work of a moment with him, nor were we slow to vacate our seats, upon becoming alive to our peril.  We had great difficulty, nevertheless, in extricating ourselves from the few who had even now come up with us; but, thanks to our resolution, to the nimbleness of our legs, to our doublings and turnings round dark corners, and, above all, to our good luck, and the darkness, we contrived to escape into a by-street, where we came full-tilt upon our friend Judson, who had entered it at the other end.  We determined to part company here; and accordingly, Judson, O'Reilly, and myself, departed in one direction, and our four companions in another, our intention being to explore our way to the shore singly, and get back to the ship as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I cannot say how this affair would have terminated, as, in spite of O'Reilly's assurances, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Our excessively foolish adventure might have ended seriously, if the inquiry which followed it had resulted in a discovery of the perpetrators of the mischief.  But of course nobody knew anything about it; and notwithstanding dates, circumstances, and suspicions, the impossibility of identifying us put an end to the investigation.  At the time, however, I strongly suspected that the extraordinary celerity with which the remainder of our stores was shipped, subsequently to a long interview between our captain and the consul, was mainly due to this event, and our departure thereby considerably accelerated.</P>
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120.sgm:<P>I may likewise record it as an historical episode, that, during our sojourn, news arrived of the victorious achievements of the American troops, the capture of Monterey, and the triumphant march into the city of Mexico.  This intelligence perhaps it was that caused us to hail our proximate departure with increased satisfaction, moreover contributing so largely to the good humour of our superiors, that our runaway comrade escaped with a reprimand, which O'Reilly likened to "a mouthful of new-milk," so mild was its nature.  Under these circumstances, then, we sailed from Rio, after a sojourn of three weeks, which, for all we did there, or that required to be done, might have been limited to one without any inconvenience.</P>
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120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>Cape Horn--Valparaiso--Mutiny aboard--A midnight alarm--A gale--Disappointed hopes--Monterey--The Californians--The fandango--A novel compliment--Our quarters--A fray in the town--The lions.</P>
120.sgm:<P>No circumstance of any importance occurred during our passage towards Cape Horn, that redoubtable bugbear to landsmen.  We encountered rough weather and smooth, tempests and calms, and contrived to kill the time as well as could be expected.  A shoal of porpoises and a stray shark or two would now and then vary the monotony of our fishing, of which I for one became extremely fond; beyond this, everything was very dull, and the days as much alike as the bonitas, or skip-jacks, we used to hook.  The harpooning of a porpoise, however, usually put us into good spirits for a few hours, on account of the bustle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I had heard and read so much of Cape Horn, and of the dangers of the passage--rounding, or doubling it, as the sailors call it--that I experienced considerable disappointment on finding ourselves becalmed off this interesting point of the great American continent.  At the special request of the captain, I took a sketch of it, though it possesses no pretensions to picturesque beauty.  It rises out of the ocean, a perpendicular mass of rocks, towering to a formidable height, in piles of abrupt crags, unadorned with a particle of vegetation, the summit clad in a snowy mantle, drooping to a considerable distance down the sides; the entire heap is an emblem of barrenness.</P>
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120.sgm:<P>We lay for some days off Cape Horn, suffering all the annoyances incidental to a dead calm at sea; but at last a breeze sprung up, and, soon freshening into a lively gale, we stretched our canvass to it, and rapidly lost sight of land.</P>
120.sgm:<P>On the 30th December, the look-out gave notice of our being off the coast of Chili, whose brown hills we were shortly after able to descry.  I observed that they seemed pretty well covered with pasture, but were--like the entire coast of South America, on the Pacific side--entirely devoid of those masses of lofty trees generally so essential to the beauty of a landscape.  True it is that chains of mountains, rearing their proud crests into the clouds, a succession of hills clad in nature's choicest verdure, and rocks broken into every variety of form, as seen through the mellow atmosphere of these dreamy latitudes, possess a novelty which has a great charm; nevertheless, remembering the scenery of my own native land, I found out what I considered to be the great characteristic deficiency of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>On the first day of the new year, we anchored off the port of Valparaiso, but in consequence of the irregularities our volunteers had been guilty of at Rio, a general prohibition was issued against any of us going ashore, a mandate which caused immense excitement, and considerably diminished the popularity of the officer whose duty it was to publish it; much against his will, no doubt, for he was most kind and indulgent.  It was announced, also, that we should set sail again at four o'clock, as soon as we had replenished our stores; so some of us made up our minds to be happy on board, and orderly.  Scarcely half an hour had elapsed, however, before it was discovered that the captain's gig had disappeared, and with her several of our men.  This was sufficient to stir up the dormant spirit of mutiny, and immediately there ensued a general rush to the gangway, for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Whilst we were on shore, Johnny Broghan distingushed himself by getting outrageously intoxicated, by which indulgence he did not improve the directness of his very singular gait.  In spite, however, of his many eccentricities, he would probably have come off as well as the rest, but he suddenly took it into his head to begin shouting, at the top of his voice, "The Enniskillen Dragoons!" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>About midnight, we were all startled, in the midst of our merriment, by an alarming discharge of musketry and cannon, which we soon ascertained had proceeded from on board our vessel.  It was "the boys" on board saluting the year 1848, much to the consternation of the town, and to the discomforture of the fleet of boats that put off to learn the cause of the clatter.</P>
120.sgm:<P>I can say of Valparaiso only that it is a very pretty city, situated in a valley, with houses--chiefly of the poorer sort--picturesquely built on the declivities of the hillside.  Amongst the most remarkable I may mention two houses of entertainment, which from their position the sailors have nicknamed the "maintop" and the "mizentop."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We weighed anchor next morning with scarcely two-thirds of our number on board, and thrice was the vessel compelled to lay-to, in order to enable the absentees to come up with her.  I also learned that, during the night, the steward and two Frenchmen, his countrymen, who had joined our expedition, had deserted.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We continued our voyage without any event occurring worth recording, save the death of one of our companions, whose constitution had been shattered by excessive dissipation.  On the 14th of February we came in sight of the promised land; and, though its hills were barren, we hailed them with joy, as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:harbingers of comfort and abundance in store for us, after the endurances of so many hardships and privations.  But we were doomed to disappointment, for the wind suddenly changed; and soon coming on to blow a terrific gale, we were obliged gradually to take in every stitch of canvass, and finally to run before it under bare poles, at the rate of twelve knots an hour.  Our little vessel gallantly breasted the huge seas, and rose on their foaming crests buoyant as a swan, then dipped into the yawning abyss of green waters beneath, to be presently tossed up in their mighty arms, high, high up, as a giant would fling up a feather to the winds.  Her timbers creaked and groaned, and every rope strained at its work; the wind whistled through her cordage, and buffeted the sails as they lay snugly clewed up in crabs, as if challenging them to a contest with it, now that it was in the pride of its fierce strength; still the taut little craft held on her course, yielding to the force of her potent master, but only biding her time to come off victorious.  At last the gale lulled; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The bay on which this town is situated is large, extending north-east some eighteen or twenty miles, but, being shallow, does not afford much protection to vessels; indeed, the harbour itself is not more than a mile in length, and is formed of piles of rock and loose stone, jutting out into the sea.  On entering the roadstead, every object appeared to me--it might be fancy--on the most diminutive scale, with the exception of the hills surrounding the town, which are lofty, and present a pleasing aspect.  They are studded with pines, stunted oaks, and small shrubs; and though this was the end of the winter season, the vegetation appeared most flourishing.  From this almost evergreen background the tiny, one-story houses stand out in bold relief, their whitewashed faces glistening in the sun, and deepening the verdure of the landscape.</P>
120.sgm:<P>These miniature habitations have three or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The picture was completed by the presence of three vessels, riding lazily on the heaving bosom of the now calm sea: one of them a frigate, the Warren, condemned as unseaworthy; the second, a merchantman; and the third, a brigantine which had been taken from the Mexicans at the commencement of the war, for smuggling arms and ammunition.  There were likewise several Indians, clad in dirty blankets, who by their gestures, as they stood on the beach, evidently regarded our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We landed at the foot of an abrupt rock, on the top of which stood the Custom-house, a long, whitewashed building, of ancient date, and about twenty feet in length: our way to it lay along a pier of most unsafe appearance, and considerably so in reality, being constructed of a few logs thrown loosely across a series of half rotten posts sunk into the sand, and liable to be dislodged by the ebb and the flow of the tide.  To our left, the beach was covered for miles with heaps, or rather hillocks, of sand, which in many places stretched as far into the interior as the eye could reach.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We remained several days on board, in consequence of no preparations having been made for our reception here, as it was expected we should land at San Francisco.  However, we disembarked at last, and were received by a motley crowd, broken up into groups, evidently sharing in the excitement of the hour.  The portly Californian, under his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:ample-brimmed <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
120.sgm: and gay <HI REND="italics">serapa</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"Faugh!" exclaimed O'Reilly, pinching his nose as we came up to a long, low building, from which issued a smell the most unsavoury imaginable: "sure, it ain't fresh mate they're killing here."</P>
120.sgm:<P>We learned that this was the slaughterhouse and hide store.  The hides were stretched out to dry, and form the staple of traffic between the natives and the ships that frequent the port.  We hurried past it, and were soon out of harm's way.  We mustered at a convenient spot, not far off from the end, or beginning--I don't know which--of the principal street, and formed into platoons; and, as we had contrived to preserve our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We were received by about twenty or thirty volunteers--old hands, as they were called; and so they were, in more senses than one; but, as they seemed very glad of our coming, and provided us with abundance of fresh beef, we had no reason for the moment to take exception to the results of their experience.</P>
120.sgm:<P>As soon as I was somewhat refreshed, I took advantage of an offer from one of the "old hands," and proceeded to explore the town.  By way of general description, I may say that the majority of the houses are built of <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm:, (unburnt brick) without decent windows or doors, and many in a deplorable state of decay.  The school-house, however, is a very fine building, constructed of square blocks of stone, and lofty, being two stories high, and containing three large rooms, one of which is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<illus entity="a120-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MONTEREY.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Our next visit was to the fort on the top of the hill.  It is of wood, the magazine and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>On our way through the town in the evening, we went into one of the <HI REND="italics">fandangos</HI>
120.sgm:, or dancing-booths--if I may employ the term--where the motley population were enjoying themselves after a fashion which induced me to procure a partner and join the "breakdown."  I merely mention this occurrence, on account of a very singular compliment which my <HI REND="italics">dark</HI>
120.sgm: partner paid me, in return, I suppose, for my gallantry; though, as we could not understand each other, and only laughed, she may have given me credit for more boldness than I really possessed.  I had turned my head away for an instant, when smash came something upon my unfortunate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:pate, and immediately after there fell over my shoulders a shower of fragments of an egg-shell, intermingled with a quantity of very minute gilt and coloured papers which had been substituted for its natural contents.  I need not say that I was very well pleased at the substitution.  Of course, I laughed immoderately, and subsequently learnt from my <HI REND="italics">cicerone</HI>
120.sgm:<P>I observed that the ladies affected the European style, but wore their dresses fitted rather loosely to their figures; which, by the way, were uncompressed by whalebone; nor did I remark any artificial additions super-added to compensate for the parsimony of Nature.  The gentlemen wore <HI REND="italics">calcineros</HI>
120.sgm:, or pantaloons, that button up from the ancle to the hip, but are generally worn open from the knee downwards.  Red or blue sashes were bound round their waist, the tasselled ends of which are very long, being allowed to fall gracefully over the hip, where they are kept <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>As I have mentioned the <HI REND="italics">serapa</HI>
120.sgm:, it may be as well to describe it here.  It is of cloth, of rich colour, and of the shape of an ordinary blanket, having a hole cut in the centre, parallel with the sides, and through which the head is passed.  The Dons of California, however, do not wear them in this fashion, but, fixing one end on the right shoulder, cast the other gracefully over the left, allowing it to fall in natural and careless folds.  At length, we returned to our quarters, where, in one large and comfortless room, were at least fifty men, sitting, crouching, and lying in every variety of posture, the principal number occupying the middle of the apartment in the dust, and dirt, and damp, with their heads on their knapsacks, describing a circle, of which the common centre was formed by an accumulation of feet.  This they called a round bed.  The muskets and side-arms, the military hats, belts, and cartridge-boxes, were disposed wherever there was a vacant spot, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:and the whole scene was so uncomfortable to look at, that I regretted the rain prevented me from seeking repose under the outer palisade.  I procured a log, and sat down upon it; and, though there was a great uproar, I suppose I fell asleep at last, as I remember suddenly starting to my feet at the report of a pistol.  A number of us rushed out in the direction of the sound, and, hastening over a wooden bridge, thrown across a ravine that traverses the centre of the town, found ourselves in the midst of a desperate fray engaged between about twenty Spaniards and some of the old volunteers, who had been assaulted by the former.  These being very superior in number, were taking to flight, but, on perceiving us, gave a shout, and renewed the combat.  Knives had been drawn on both sides, and some severe wounds inflicted; and I do not know how the affair might have terminated, had not O'Reilly and Freu&uml;nd come up armed with heavy stakes which they had wrenched from the bridge, and begun belabouring friend and foe with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>I passed the remainder of the night most miserably, though, on the whole, we all managed to turn out pretty fresh at muster.  After <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>As soon as I found myself again at liberty, I renewed my excursion into the town, my first visit being to the church, which stood near our quarters.  It is a small edifice, strongly built, and of simple style; the only ornaments consisting of a few mouldings over the gothic porch, and on each side of it a niche, intended to contain the statue of a saint.  The walls in the interior are white-washed over, and were, when I saw them, extremely dingy and dirty.  They are ornamented with paintings, very indifferent copies of celebrated originals: one of these represented the passion of Christ; another, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:temptation of St. Anthony.  The latter was full of grotesque and grinning spectres, interspersed with females in a state of classic nudity, but whose blandishments I think it argued the best possible taste on St. Anthony's part to resist.  I also noticed a very beautiful figure of the lifeless body of the Saviour, enclosed in a glass case; I was, however, not a little surprised at the barbarous taste that had directed the arrangement of the accessories.  The figure lay on a stiff and ungraceful couch, formed of the richest and most costly stuffs, but so thick and modern in design as immediately to dissipate all those serious ideas which the real beauties of the work were calculated to inspire.  It was just such an effect as might be produced by draping one of the old Greek models in satin and Brussels lace.  But this was not the only incongruity observable.  The virgin was represented in modern attire, with a bunch of artificial flowers in her hand, and the altar itself was decorated with all the primitive colours, without the slightest attempt at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>On attending service on the following Sunday, I must confess I was not a little startled at the character of the musical selections, with which the devotions of the congregation (almost exclusively composed of females) were enlivened.  The instruments consisted of a guitar, a violin, and a flute; and, during the usual pauses in the ritual, we were alternately entertained with the piquant air of "Yankee Doodle," and the solemn national anthem of "Hail, Columbia."  I could not but admire the inimitable self-possession of the French consul, whose features were screwed up into an absorbed and intense devotional expression, which, by the unnatural rigidity of the facial muscles, was evidently assumed to keep down the latent explosion that he had temporarily succeeded in smothering.</P>
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120.sgm:<P>Surrounding the church are the remains of an extensive <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm:, or mud building, which formerly served for the purposes of a mission.  The scenery in the neighbourhood is of an exceedingly pleasing and even picturesque character.  Close to the church, and running out in the direction of the bay, lies a large and beautiful sheet of water, shut in at one side by some steep but verdant hills, studded here and there with cottages.  The road to San Francisco runs through a small valley, lying between these hills and the church; and the country, on either side, presented very much the aspect of the park scenery of England, with this exception, that the trees were, in general, of a more stunted character.  The illusion was rendered more complete by the rich green by which the slopes were clothed, the winter being at its close, and the vegetable world refreshed by the copious rains that had fallen.  The stunted appearance of the trees near the coast, and the inclination which they take from the sea, naturally lead to the conclusion that they are affected by continuous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>In strolling through the woods, I stumbled upon a small cemetery, intended, I presume, exclusively for foreigners, there being but few, if any, Spanish names inscribed upon the tombstones.  Here lay the remains of a great many of the crew of the Columbus vessel of war; and a feeling of sadness stole over me when I reflected that, like those poor fellows, I might be destined to lay my bones in some sequestered and lonely nook like this, thousands of leagues distant from my family and friends.  And yet for those who are epicures in such matters, no prettier spot could be found, the scenery around being of that pleasing and tranquil character which we love to associate with the memory of the dead.</P>
120.sgm:<P>In returning to the town by the San Francisco road, I encountered a yoke of oxen and waggon, of a most primitive and curious build.  The wheels are generally formed of the hardest and toughest kind of wood, cut horizontally from the trunk of some immense tree, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:forming one solid piece, rarely, if ever, shod with iron, to prevent them wearing.  The axle-tree, which is also of wood, is at least ten inches thick, the part on which the wheel rests being cut down and rounded to a diameter of about six.  This is crossed by three heavy beams running parallel with the wheels, the centre beam extending a considerable distance beyond the main body of the conveyance.  The beams are fastened together by means of cross pieces, and by being partially sunk into the axle.  Staves are then nailed perpendicularly all round, and strengthened by others laid horizontally upon them, so as to form the body of the carriage.  The oxen are attached to the projecting beam already described, and which stretches as far as their heads, by means of a yoke composed of a heavy piece of wood, about six or eight inches in width, the edge being hollowed out at a convenient distance to receive the heads of the two animals.  In yoking the oxen, this cumbrous headpiece is placed at the extremity of the neck, just behind the horns, to which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>Life in Monterey--A Californian cafe&acute; and its incidents--Yankee sharpness, <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
120.sgm: tropical blood--The Indians of Monterey and Mount Carmel-- <HI REND="italics">Agre&acute;mens</HI>
120.sgm:<P>In the evening I strolled into Abrigo's, the principal, indeed, I believe, the only <HI REND="italics">cafe&acute; restaurant</HI>
120.sgm: in the town.  Its pretensions in point of accommodation were of a very humble order, being limited to one tolerable sized, and two very small rooms, the latter of which were exclusively devoted to gambling.  There were two billiard-tables, but, although well skilled in the European game, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:and possessing a profound knowledge of all the angles of the table, the Californians seem in general to prefer a peculiar game of their own, which is played somewhat after the following fashion: ten wooden pins are set upright in the centre of the table, and with three balls, the spot, the white, and the red, the player takes his chance of either upsetting a pin or holing a ball, either of which adds two to his score.  If at one stroke he can manage to knock down the ten pins, he counts fifty; but such a <HI REND="italics">coup de main</HI>
120.sgm:<P>Shortly after I entered, an American gentleman, who had just arrived from Mazatlan, challenged one of the signors to play him for twenty-five dollars.  The bet was accepted, and the money lost by the challenger.  Upon this the latter appeared greatly chagrined, and said, as he was putting by his queue--</P>
120.sgm:<P>"If I had the money with me, I shouldn't mind playing you for five hundred dollars."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Don't let that be any obstacle," said an old gentleman, who, it was subsequently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The Californian, deceived by the easiness of his previous victory, eagerly accepted the second wager, and the countrymen of the respective parties crowded into the room to watch the result.  The American played at first with indifferent success, but with the most perfect command of his temper, while his adversary trembled with excitement, although, by his scornful manner, it was evident he felt confident of his own superiority.  At last the critical point of the game was reached; and the American, who, it was apparent to most of us, was only amusing himself at the expense of his opponent, quietly took the cigar out of his mouth, and applying himself seriously to his work, bowled the whole fifty out without stopping.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The excitement of this little incident over, I went into the <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:, or gambling-rooms, which were crowded with players. There was a pile of money in the centre of each table amounting to several hundred dollars, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>On expressing my surprise to an American beside me that so gentlemanly and elegant-looking a man should thus demean himself before so many people, he burst into a horse laugh, and told me that it was evident that I was a new importation, for that such scenes were of every day occurrence.  "In fact," continued he, "when I want to buy a horse, saddle, spurs, or even a <HI REND="italics">serapa</HI>
120.sgm:, I come here, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The Indians of Monterey and the neighbouring mission of Mount Carmel are the most hideous-looking creatures that it is possible to imagine.  They are very dark, indeed I may almost say black, with a slight tinge of copper colour; the features are, in all other respects, as purely African in their cast, the nose being large and flat, the cheek-bones salient, the lips thick and wide, and the forehead as low as is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>At the time of my visit, they were quite a nuisance in the place; but, great as was the annoyance they occasioned, it was nothing compared to that experienced from the dogs that swarmed in the town and neighbourhood, and which reminded one forcibly of a Turkish village.  Wherever you went, you encountered them in large troops; and at night it was impossible to walk three steps without a fierce and snarling muzzle menacing you out of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Monterey, at the period of which I write, was considered the capital of California, but its trade was exceedingly limited, it being rare to see more than one vessel in the harbour until the arrival of the Americans.  The shops bear no external evidence of their character, sign-boards being superfluities in a place where each man's <HI REND="italics">locale</HI>
120.sgm:, occupation, and circumstances, are as well known as in a gossiping country village.  The articles most in demand, as is natural with a vain and showy people, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>There is very little land under cultivation in the vicinity of Monterey, but still there is no lack of potatoes and other vegetables.  That which strikes the foreigner most is the utter neglect in which the soil is left, and the indifference with which the most charming sites are regarded.  In the hands of the English or Americans, Monterey would be a beautiful town, adorned with gardens and orchards, and surrounded by picturesque walks and drives.  The natives are, however, unfortunately, too ignorant to appreciate, and too indolent even to attempt, such improvements.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Education is far from being general, even amongst the higher classes, it being considered quite an accomplishment to read and write.  There are no schools, either Spanish or American: and it is therefore not to be wondered at that, in the absence of mental, the Californians should devote themselves to the physical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The hoosti, or saddle-tree, is made of wood, the pummel being crowned with a heavy knob, and covered with leather of a very strong description, and in color greatly resembling parchment.  Both the pummel and hind part of the saddle are of extraordinary height, the former reaching above the rider's waist.  The saddle-tree itself is covered over with two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The stirrups are cut out of a solid piece of hard wood, about eight inches wide and three thick, with two holes, one for the foot and the other for the stirrup-leathers, which are unusually wide and strong.  I have heard many Americans say that these stirrups are preferable to their own, being easier to catch while the horse is in full gallop, should they happen to slip off.  The head-stall is usually of rich and fanciful design, and, in most instances, ornamented with chased silver; and a powerful bit, worked by an equally strong bridle, made of plaited horse-hair, serves to keep under subjection the most violent horse, as he must either yield to its control, or have his jaw broken by it.  To the end of this bridle is attached a short, heavy whip of plaited leather, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:with two cutting thongs; and round the pommel of the saddle, underneath the knob to which I have alluded, to obviate the danger of its slipping off, is coiled the <HI REND="italics">lasso</HI>
120.sgm:<P>The costume of the rider generally consists of a glazed <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
120.sgm:, with a leaf six or eight inches in width, and secured on the head by a string passing from the sides underneath the chin.  His shoulders and body are protected by the <HI REND="italics">serapa</HI>
120.sgm:, and his limbs by <HI REND="italics">calcineros</HI>
120.sgm:<P>In person, the Californian <HI REND="italics">caballero</HI>
120.sgm: is generally tall and graceful, with jet black hair, having a slight tendency to curl, a brown complexion, expressive black eyes, and features decidedly Roman in their cast.  When fully equipped, mounted, and inspired by the ardour <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<illus entity="a120-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A WATERING PLACE--LOWER CALIFORNIA.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Such is the force of example, that many of the Americans and other foreigners who had been residing a little time in the country, and who had had but little previous experience as equestrians, became admirable riders, in some instances but little inferior to the natives themselves.  Our men became such enthusiasts on the subject, that they devoted the greater part of their pay to the purchase of horses and saddles.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The manner in which the wild horses of California are tamed is sufficiently curious to merit some description.  A party of well mounted horsemen rides out in search of them; and, when they find a sufficient number of them together, they surround and chase them in a body into the <HI REND="italics">correl</HI>
120.sgm:, where the gate is purposely left open to receive them.  Were they to attempt to chase them singly, or even in small numbers, they would find great difficulty in catching them; but, by driving them in large troops, they are the more willing to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:follow the direction given by their pursuers; and their movements embarrassing each other, escape is more difficult.  The animals having been chased inside the fence, the <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
120.sgm: selects the horse that pleases him most, and the lasso is thrown round his neck.  He is then led or driven out of the <HI REND="italics">correl</HI>
120.sgm:, and, being thrown down, his legs are tied; a leathern blind is attached to the <HI REND="italics">hackamore</HI>
120.sgm: placed ready for that purpose on his forehead, and a strap fastened loosely round his body.  The lasso is then tied to the <HI REND="italics">hackamore</HI>
120.sgm: immediately beneath the mouth, and he is thus completely secured.  His legs are set free after this operation, but he is still held by the <HI REND="italics">lasso</HI>
120.sgm:.  He now begins to kick and plunge furiously, but soon getting tired of this amusement, the person who holds the <HI REND="italics">lasso</HI>
120.sgm: draws it in gradually with a gentle strain until he can reach the animal's head, which he pats as soothingly as possible.  He then draws the blind down over his eyes, and jumps on his back, slipping his knees between the strap and the horse's sides.  This operation is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:generally performed by an Indian, who is accustomed to ride in this fashion without either saddle or blanket.  The blind is now lifted, and the horse, unused to the burden that he bears, begins rearing and plunging again, and keeps it up sometimes for a whole hour.  All this time the Indian is trying to guide him, but at first without success.  At last the animal gets exhausted, and moves along with greater docility.  The rider then takes him home, and, choosing a spot where there is sufficient grass, sinks a strong stake of wood in it, and, attaching the animal to it, leaves him alone for the remainder of that day.  On the following, and, perhaps, for eight successive days, according to circumstances, he repeats the same operation; and then, if he considers him sufficiently broken in, puts on the saddle, his eyes being still kept covered.  When the saddle is first put on, the trainer does not mount him, but allows him to kick and plunge about until he gets a little familiarized to it.  He then rides the horse with a saddle for a few days, and puts on a bridle.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:He is still led, however, by the <HI REND="italics">hackamore</HI>
120.sgm:<P>The wild mules are still more difficult to break in; the mode of training is, however, pretty much the same, with this exception, that it is more violent and of longer duration.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Horses, mules, billiards, and <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:, I found to be the all-engrossing subjects of conversation; and it was not without some little difficulty that I could obtain sufficient <HI REND="italics">data</HI>
120.sgm: to enable me to form a correct idea of the domestic habits of the better classes.  It may be readily supposed that the Californians could not be very well affected towards those who had come, as it were, to conquer and appropriate their country; and the military <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The example given by General Castro was attended with a good effect upon others, and all idea of fighting was abandoned for the present.  Still, however, there lurked in the breasts of the people a strong prejudice, which the conduct of the Americans themselves tended greatly to embitter.  I have frequently seen a quiet and respectable party of the natives intruded upon by drunken soldiers or sailors, who, not content with observing or partaking of the festivities, to the enjoyment of which all strangers who conduct themselves properly are welcome by the usages of the country, insisted upon monopolizing the privileges of the fe&circ;te, and otherwise outraging the feelings of the people.  Up to the time of my visit, such had been, generally speaking, the conduct and character of the foreigners who had visited California; and it is not to be wondered at, that a people so isolated and so naturally courteous should have regarded the Americans and English somewhat in the light of savages.  Owing to this feeling, which seemed to pervade the entire population, very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Having alluded to General Castro's capitulation in terms that may possible lead to inferences unfavourable to his character, I think it but justice to add, that there is not the slightest ground for supposing that it was dictated by any but the most honourable motives.  This gentleman is the very beau ideal of the Spanish race--handsome and dignified in person, and as brave, hospitable, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We had remained about twelve days in Monterey, during which time the ship Isabella had discharged part of her cargo, when our hopes of a little repose after our long voyage were suddenly disappointed by an order issued on parade, that, in consequence of the increasing disturbances in Lower California, companies C and D, with some sixty or eighty men from the detachment, were to embark on the 4th of March on board this vessel, and proceed to Lower California, to join the companies A and B, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Burton.  At this time, we could ill be spared in Monterey, where the Americans still entertained apprehensions of a rising on the part of the population; but, as the demand for our presence in the lower country was pressing, the lesser necessity yielded to the greater.  Some of the married men, who felt little disposition for active service, made strenuous efforts to obtain permission to remain, but the old Colonel knew his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Captain N--, who had been for some time under arrest for various little military peccadilloes, such, for instance, as shooting some Indians without the necessary forms, was now liberated, and placed at the head of his company.  His men would gladly have left him behind, but he was known to be an efficient officer, and the best disciplinarian in the force, having received a regular military education at West-Point.  He was therefore considered well qualified to head the expedition, men of capacity being rare amongst us; and I have reason to think the old Governor was far from being displeased at getting rid of him.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We all embarked on the day appointed, and on getting on board, the lately arrived detachments were rather unpleasantly convinced that, if the members of company D were not very old, they were, at all events, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>During our passage down, we underwent constant drilling, and attained great dexterity in the use of our arms.  As D was a cavalry company, we were roused every morning from our slumbers by the sound of a bugle, which soon became as intolerable as the drum of the detachment.  One morning, to our great contentment, the instrument was missing, and no one was sufficiently interested in its recovery to second the efforts of the Captain to discover the mode of its disappearance.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We coasted along until we arrived in the latitude of Santa Barbara, when the weather became exceedingly warm and agreeable on deck.  About the 18th of March we reached the roadstead of San Jose&acute;, where we found at anchor the sloop of war Ciane, commanded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>It appeared that a handful of men, composed of about twenty-five marines and a few sailors and volunteers, had stood a severe siege in the old quartel, or barracks, having been surrounded for several weeks by a large body of the enemy.  During this period, a number of the native women had taken refuge with the Americans, and the whole party had suffered incredible hardships.  Most of the cattle had been driven from the neighbourhood of the town, and in order to prevent themselves from famishing, a portion of the little garrison was obliged to sally out, whenever an opportunity presented itself, to lasso and bring in a bullock, and, indeed, even to obtain a supply of water, the springs being at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>On one occasion, a small party of the Yankees, about seven or eight in number, headed by Lieutenant Duncan, was completely surrounded by a large body of the enemy.  It was proposed that they should endeavour to cut their way through them, but the majority considered that it would be madness to think of it, and resolved on yielding themselves prisoners.  They were immediately sent off into the interior of the country.  Encouraged by this partial success, the Californians kept up the attack on the fort with great spirit, but made little or no progress.  Lieutenant M'Clanahan, who stood at the base of the flag-staff, on the parapet of the fort, carried away by the enthusiasm of the moment, jumped upon the rampart, and waved his sword in defiance.  He was instantly struck <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The natives had now retired into their strongholds in the mountains, having lost a great number of their men, both by death and capture; and the first thing we heard on our arrival was, that they were preparing for a general and simultaneous attack.  The crew of the Ciane having, in the mean time, come to the assistance of the garrison, the Americans considered themselves in full and permanent possession of the town.  Our services <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>La Paz--A bivouac in a church--A change--"Black Jack"--Preparations for a march against the enemy--The march--Californian beds--Ranche&acute;s--A little story about "Black Jack."</P>
120.sgm:<P>Paz is of great extent and beauty, and possesses a large number of rich pearl oyster beds, the pearl fishery having at one time supplied the chief article of traffic on this part of the coast.  The Indians of La Paz are very expert divers, and were allowed a per-centage upon all the oysters they could fetch up from the beds; but, since the breaking out of the war, the fishery, and the trade which depended on it, had been, the one utterly neglected, and the other completely ruined, all the men capable of bearing arms having been impressed into the military service by Penada, the Mexican general.  Judging from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The country around the bay of La Paz is elevated and picturesque, though rugged; the soil being composed principally of rock and sand, wildly and irregularly covered with the most prickly species of cacti, stunted bushes, and shrubs of sunburnt hue.  The cocoa and the palm-tree rear their giant heads far above their forest brethren, amongst which they are abundantly interspersed, whilst here and there shoots up an enormous cactus, enhancing the novelty of the scene, and imparting to it quite an Oriental character.  These were my first impressions of La Paz, as I gazed at it from the deck of our vessel, now slowly sailing into the harbour.</P>
120.sgm:<P>On the 22nd, we entered the town, marching up the principal street, which is very prettily and regularly built; on each side, at the outer edge of the <HI REND="italics">trottoirs</HI>
120.sgm:, were rows of green trees, whose overhanging foliage afforded us luxurious shelter from the intensely hot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Some of the houses were, as at Monterey, built of <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm:, plastered over and whitewashed, with flat roofs of the same material, but surrounded by parapetted walls, which adapted them, in case of need, to the purpose of defence.  Further on were numerous dilapidated dwellings, <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm:, and bamboo; devastated orchards; gardens trampled over and parched up for want of the husbandman's care; vegetables and fruit in abundance, trodden into rottenness; branches of trees broken and half burnt, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The rude soldier, whether Californian or American, had spared nothing, however beautiful, whilst indulging in his reckless spirit of hatred and revenge.  Nevertheless, judging of La Paz from what remained of it, it presented evidences of elegance and civilization to which Monterey was an utter stranger, and which I could attribute only to its greater proximity to Mexico, and to the consequent increased facilities of communication with that city.  I confess, when I beheld the ravages war had made, that I regretted the Americans should ever have set foot upon the soil.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We were well received and entertained by the volunteers belonging to two other companies stationed here, whom we found very agreeable fellows, and remarkably spruce, a fact worth recording, because neatness is not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>There were several dirty tents scattered about, which had evidently seen some service; and additional accommodation for about thirty men had been contrived, by constructing by the side of one of the houses, a row of huts--apartments they were called--formed of sticks and brushwood.  To the extreme left stood the Catholic church, which, having been stripped by the Californians of all its ornaments, was now converted into a barrack, to the right of which was the <HI REND="italics">correl</HI>
120.sgm:, or <HI REND="italics">cavallard</HI>
120.sgm:, where the government horses were kept.  To this church I, with others of my company, were detailed; and accordingly we took up our quarters there in the evening, arranging our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I was fortunate enough to fall asleep, and to sleep soundly, in spite of the ribald merriment that made the walls of the church ring with peals of blasphemous laughter.  I awoke much refreshed, and was able to attend muster in good time.  Not so my companions, who presently came straggling into the ranks by twos and threes, some rubbing their eyes, some gaping and stretching, others again less than half-dressed, and more still in their fatigue dress, but all equally careless of discipline, chatting and laughing as they stood in the ranks, and in the same breath cursing the drummer and his drum, and the military service.</P>
120.sgm:<P>I have already shown, by narrating instances of open insubordination, that such irregularities as these were amongst the least serious evils of the American volunteer system, and I soon learned that they were developed on a far more extensive scale in Mexico than in California.  Many of the companies held the authority of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I found the inhabitants of La Paz more intelligent than the people of Monterey, whilst the habits of the lower classes were even more simple and primitive.  The chief articles of food amongst the latter are beef, <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
120.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">penoche&grave;</HI>
120.sgm:.  These <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
120.sgm: are a kind of cake made of ground Indian corn, and the <HI REND="italics">penoche&grave;</HI>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:is a mixture of coarse flour and sugar, made up into very hard square or round pieces.  I have frequently seen an Indian, or a Californian of the lower class, breakfast off a couple of these <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
120.sgm:, weighing together not more than two ounces and a half, and a piece of this sugar and flour, previously to undergoing the most severe physical labour; to wit, the making of <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;s</HI>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The day after my arrival, I ascertained that I and other of my companions were enrolled in another company, commanded by the officer before-mentioned, whose severity had gained him the nickname of "Black Jack," and that we were to hold ourselves in readiness to set out, in the course of a few days more, on an expedition against the enemy.  In consequence of this change, I shifted my quarters to a large house in the principal street, nearly opposite the one I have alluded to as having formed the residence of the former Governor.  The bustle incidental to the announcement of a march into the interior can scarcely be realized through the medium of description.  First, there was a general rush everywhere in search of canteens, knapsacks, saddles, bridles, spurs, thongs of leather, scraps of rope, pieces of raw hide, nails, and anything and everything that might possibly or impossibly come into use for the equipment of man, horse, mule, or other beast, which, in default of the two latter, would have to do their service.  Then there was scuffling, and shuffling, and pushing, and swearing, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:laughing, and talking, and singing, and whistling--ay, and dancing, or capering about, less in joy than in excitement; and packing, and unpacking, and re-packing; stitching, and darning, and cobbling; a running from house to house of officers and men, all intermingling and jostling, and a prying into every corner, crook, cranny, and crevice; rummaging of cupboards and chests of drawers; upsetting of trunks and boxes; peeping under bedsteads and into beds; poking into dusty lumber-closets, and exploring of the most singular places; all this to hunt up necessaries to which we had not the smallest right, and which the natives most unwillingly surrendered to us, in spite of written engagements on our part to return the same-- <HI REND="italics">when we came back</HI>
120.sgm: --or give an equivalent in money.  But, notwithstanding our exertions, we came off most miserably, though we ransacked every <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm: throughout the neighbourhood.  We were obliged to make the best of what we had, and prepared ourselves for the start accordingly, being the most poorly equipped detachment that had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We learned that the enemy were quartered in great numbers at Todos Santos, preparing for a descent upon La Paz and San Jose&acute;, a project which our Colonel resolved to frustrate by anticipating their attack and scattering their forces.  About eleven on the night of the third day after our arrival, our company received orders to march, and proceeded to the parade-ground of the fort, where we were joined by about a hundred and twenty more men from two other companies, the remainder being left to guard the town against surprise.  We soon formed into marching order, those in front being mounted on horses or mules, and those in the rear following on foot.  I pitied them much as we proceeded.</P>
120.sgm:<P>It was a glorious moonlight night, and the men's weapons glittered like streaks of silver flashing through the deep foliage of the tangled brushwood through which we had to force our way.  At first we got on tolerably well, in spite of the hillocks of sand, over which we either <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We had long left the town behind us, and our rapid march had brought us to one of those roads peculiar to California, and the advantages of which I have never been able to appreciate.  They are just wide enough to allow of one horseman to advance, but not to permit of his wheeling round, unless by an exercise of ingenuity which it is not so certain that his horse or his mule will always be disposed to second.  Along this road, then, we continued our march in single or Indian file, our native guides <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"Holy St. Anthony, what's that?" exclaimed O'Reilly, jumping to his feet, and scratching the nether part of his person; "as sure as you live, boys, we have got amongst old acquaintances."</P>
120.sgm:<P>The words were scarcely out of his mouth before a general manifestation of similar discomfort burst from all who had, on the first impulse, cast themselves on the ground.  We soon discovered that such portions of our persons as had touched the soil were literally stuck full of a species of prickly-nut, the produce of a kind of cactus, with which it was covered.  We experienced some difficulty in disengaging ourselves from these most unpleasant attachments, but, having done so, and cleared a convenient space, we again threw ourselves down, and, in spite of the intolerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>But our troubles had only commenced; for we soon discovered that the soil teemed with a numerous family of vermin, so anxious to be on terms of the most intimate acquaintanceship with us, that rest was impossible.  Fleas of so large a growth, and of so voracious a propensity, I never again wish to see, much less to feel; whilst the ants and wood-bugs were of a development quite startling, the odour of the latter being on a corresponding scale.  It was a relief to hear the word "march" given.  We resumed our journey with more alacrity than we had commenced it, and proceeded until we had accomplished about twenty-five miles, when, it being broad day, and a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:<P>This <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm: consisted of a small shanty, constructed partly of sticks, partly of leaves, and partly of the bamboo-cane, and looked like a mere speck, it being situated on the summit of a rugged and frowning steep of some sixty feet in height, composed of rock and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We halted at the base of the steep, and, looking up, saw some females, evidently watching our movements with some anxiety.  One of our men soon discovered the ascent, and, clambering to the summit, informed the women what we wanted, at the same time giving earnest of a readiness to pay for it.  Their application was successful; and, on their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:return, myself and one or two others followed them down the declivities on the road-side, turning in and out of the rocks, until we reached a small valley, completely sheltered from cursory observation, where the live stock was grazing off a patch of meagre herbage, which, from its being, with the exception of a few trees, almost the only bit of green we could see--for we were now surrounded by barren hills--was quite refreshing to the wearied eye.  From the fissures of the rocks there flowed, with a gentle ripple, a thin, limpid stream, which, falling into a hollow at the end of this little valley, there formed a small pond where the cattle could slake their thirst.  It was, most probably, in consequence of there being here a few scanty patches of herbage and a supply of water convenient, that the people to whom the <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:; belonged had been induced to settle here; for none but those who have travelled through this wilderness of a region can appreciate the value of a little grass to sustain a few animals, and of a rill of water to irrigate a kitchen-garden.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<illus entity="a120-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOUNTAIN SCENERY--LOWER CALIFORNIA.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The "Californian gridiron" now came into active and general use.  It is a straight stick cut from a tree, stripped of its bark, and whittled to a sharp point.  Several pieces of beef are "speared" upon this; and, whilst one point rests on a piece of wood yet unburnt, and is held by one of the cooks, another turns the meat until the slices are done.  Several of our men made the ramrod of their musket serve the same purpose, and subsequently got a reprimand from our commander, Black Jack, in consequence of their being unable to clean and brighten it up again; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Having again incidentally alluded to "Black Jack," I may as well here narrate a painful episode which was related to us, as we sat eating our food, by one of the volunteers who had been a long time in his company, and who had come with us from Monterey.  He was one of the parties concerned in the expedition I am about to refer to, and which will illustrate the summary vengeance with which, when they are suspected of any offence, the poor Indians are visited, without formality of trial or proof of guilt.  As nearly as I can remember, I give the substance of our comrade's narrative.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Whilst his company was staying at Monterey, some horses were stolen from the <HI REND="italics">cavallard</HI>
120.sgm:; and suspicion falling on some Indians whose tribe dwelt in the vicinity, a detachment of men was ordered to go in search of the stolen property, and, at the same time, to survey the country, and suppress any attempt at a rising amongst the natives.  During this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:excursion, which proved unsuccessful with regard to the recovery of the lost property, of which no trace could be found, one of the men lost the track, and was not again heard of alive.  As desertion was out of the question, it was conjectured he had fallen a prey to the out-lying Indians, in revenge for the invasion of their country; and, on their return to Monterey with this unfortunate intelligence, they received instructions to go out again in search of him.  This time, "Black Jack" was of the party.  As they were upon the point of setting out, a runner brought news of the missing man.  His body had been found cut to pieces, and several arrows sticking in different parts of it.  The object of the expedition was now changed: vengeance was the word, and "Black Jack" vowed he would have it.  After many days and nights of travelling through regions the most difficult of access, they came upon a party of Indians in the gorges of the lofty mountains of that district; but they denied all knowledge both of the horses and of the murdered man, hinting, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:however, that in such a direction some news might be gained from another tribe of Indians, their enemies, and who were most likely to have committed the robbery and the murder.  Accordingly their guide and interpreter started off again in the direction indicated; and, in the course of a few days more, the party came up with the Indians, of whom it was in search.  On the approach of the strangers, the chiefs advanced and shook hands with the Captain, who returned the compliment, and then informed them of the object of his visit.  The chiefs protested they knew nothing about the transaction; it was the first time they had heard it mentioned; they were friendly to the foreigners, whom they feared, and did not wish to offend.  "Black Jack," tired of wandering about, told them he did not believe them; they were all of the same colour, and, therefore, all thieves and murderers alike; and he should insist upon the culprits being given up.  Again the chiefs remonstrated and protested against the injustice that had been done them; it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:in vain: for the Captain commanded some of the men to take the chiefs into custody.  The men hesitated; when one of them, an Irishman, who had long served in the British army, stepped forward and seized the oldest chief, pinning his arms behind him, and the next moment the other was in a similar position.  The party was sufficiently numerous to overawe the Indians, and, besides this, well armed; the Indians saw that resistance would be useless, and stood calmly awaiting the result.  "Black Jack" pointed to a small space that had been recently cleared, and a firing-party took up its position there.  The older chief, perceiving that his time was come, requested permission to speak with his son, who was standing near, and who now advanced.  The two took leave of each other with great emotion; and the old man, after embracing his son, said to him--"My son, remember, that from this hour there is blood between us and the pale-faces;" which, as the interpreter informed the party, was equal to an injunction upon the tribe to revenge his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:death.  The two chiefs then folded their arms, and deliberately stalked to the place of execution--of murder, rather--exhibiting the greatest unconcern, whilst the few men of the tribe looked on in the same impassive manner.  In less than another minute all was over, and the two chiefs lay stretched on the ground stone dead; but, scarcely had they fallen, than the remainder of the Indians uttered a loud and terrific yell; and, plunging into the bush, disappeared in search of their companions.  The party now began their retreat with great rapidity, but were severely harassed on their way by the Indians, who, assembling in great numbers, waylaid them at every turn, casting showers of arrows amongst them, and otherwise assailing them, though without effect; their dread of the muskets keeping them beyond the range of their own weapons.  Several volleys were discharged amongst the assailants, but, whether with effect or not, could not be ascertained.  At length the party reached Monterey without having sustained any loss; but this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>Domestic economy of the Californians--The march resumed--Our animals--An important capture--San Antonio--The Yakee Indians--A mistake--My misfortune--Comforts of a blood-horse--Dr. Freu&uml;nd's adventure--Todos Santos and the enemy.</P>
120.sgm:<P>To return to our repast.  I had occasion to revisit the <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm: in search of salt, and, taking advantage of the opportunity, made acquaintance with several ingenious native contrivances adapted to the exigencies of their domestic economy.  To preserve that scarce article, water, cool and clean, a great desideratum in a torrid climate, and in a country abounding with vermin, and the atmosphere of which is charged with minute particles of sand, the natives select from a tree a branch having three forks, the ends of which they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:trim to the convenient length, and, fastening the trimmed branch horizontally to a stout upright cane, slip into this triangular basket the brown clay pitcher containing the water reserved for culinary purposes, the top of which they cover with a piece of wood fitted to it.  The whole apparatus is usually placed beneath the overhanging foliage of a tree, or under the shade of a projecting crag.  The drinking-cups, or bowls, are formed of the shell or husk of a yellow tropical fruit, scooped out and carefully scraped.  The cooking utensils are made of clay, and are of all dimensions.  The Indian corn for making their <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
120.sgm: is ground under a flat stone of about eight inches long by three broad, this being worked upon a stone table, averaging in length some eighteen inches by twelve in breadth, and standing upon four stone legs, the hindermost being quite two inches higher than the foremost; so that the surface of the table forms a pretty steep inclined plane, and facilitates the process of grinding, as well as that of separating, the bran from the flour.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:observed several raw hides stretched upon the ground, shaded by a screen of bamboo-cane and leaves; on these the natives indulge in their <HI REND="italics">siesta</HI>
120.sgm:.  I also noticed a number of long switches, similarly protected, on which were suspended as many strips of beef as they could hold.  When this beef is thoroughly salted and dried, it will keep for a very considerable time, and is admirably adapted for the long journeys which the traveller is frequently obliged to take between one <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:<P>I must confess, our party cut a very singular figure as it set out, after resting at this spot.  We had all sorts of costumes; some military, some Californian; some wearing a hybrid between the two; others habited after a fashion more decidedly brigandish than anything else; but the majority of us appearing much the worse for our rough journey through the thorns, whilst many were literally in rags; some had thrust the lower portion of their trowsers into their boots, affecting a dashing style as they rode off upon their steeds--sorry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<illus entity="a120-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SPECIMEN OF BAMBOO HOUSES IN GENERAL USE IN LOWER CALIFORNIA.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:beasts enough for the most part, though others were sleek and in good condition.  As for caparisonings, fortunate were those who had succeeded in procuring decent saddles; many had bare saddle-trees, which they had brought in the hope of procuring, by some lucky chance, the necessary covering of leather from the <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;s</HI>
120.sgm:<P>Our way lay through the narrowest paths, having on each side thick and thorny bushes, which scratched our faces, and pierced our hands cruelly, whilst the rocks and sands beneath our feet rendered our progress still more painful.  Then we had to encounter entangled branches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>As we threaded our way up and through one of those intricate steep defiles peculiar to mountainous districts, where the rocks around us appeared to have been thrown up and heaped together by some fearful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<illus entity="a120-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SKETCH DURING THE WAR--LOWER CALIFORNIA.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We continued our road across the mountains, winding round them, in and out, and along narrow shelves of rocks, from which a single false step would have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:precipitated him who made it into the deep valley far beneath; never resting but for a few minutes at a time, except at intervals or relays, averaging about twenty-five miles each, when we usually came up to a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:, and refreshed ourselves with fresh meat, and sometimes vegetables and fruit.  These <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;s</HI>
120.sgm: generally occupied some picturesque spot, and the sight of them infused new life into the whole party, man and beast; the latter especially, whose instinct seemed to be even superior to the intelligence of our guide, the animals being always first to give us due intimation that we were approaching quarters, by pricking up their ears, pawing and snorting, and increasing their pace.  Many of these <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;s</HI>
120.sgm: were built of <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm:, plastered over and whitewashed, and had good <HI REND="italics">cavallards</HI>
120.sgm:, and well-cultivated gardens, irrigated with much ingenuity.  Indeed, it was impossible to contemplate them, contrasting as they did so singularly with the wild scenery around, without astonishment and even admiration at the enterprise which had erected, in regions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We had arrived within about seven miles of San Antonio, at one of the most miserable <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;s</HI>
120.sgm:<P>Having resumed our march, and reached the town, we took up our quarters at the lower end of the principal square.  We had captured, on our way, three Yakee Indians, who were endeavouring to escape by one of the cross-roads; they were confined in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>These Yakees of California formed a large portion of a very numerous tribe of Indians in Mexico, who, attracted--as we were informed--by the prospect of plunder, and by the liberal promises held out to them by the Californians at the commencement of the war, had crossed the head of the gulf, and joined the native forces.  They are a fierce, dark-complexioned race, though some shades lighter than the Indians of the upper country, to whom they are superior in natural intelligence.  Their eyebrows and hair are very black, and the latter hangs in disorder about their head, though it is not permitted to grow to any great length, as is the custom with many other Indian tribes, nor do I believe is it often subjected to the process of combing.  Their cheek-bones are high, their nostrils flat and wide, and their mouths large, but amply furnished with brilliantly white teeth.  Their physical strength is immense; and, notwithstanding that they are not at all partial to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:work--in which respect I do not think they differ very much from the labouring classes of more civilized countries--the amount of fatigue and labour they can endure and accomplish is surprising.  Their dress is of course adapted to the climate, and is of the lightest description, but not remarkable for cleanliness; a fact I believe to be as much owing to taste as to poverty.  I was informed--though I do not vouch for the accuracy of the information--that thus far their conduct in the war had been barbarous in the extreme, for they had proved alike faithless to their new friends, and ungenerous to their enemies: indeed, the <HI REND="italics">ranche&grave;ros</HI>
120.sgm: have frequently declared that they dwelt not less in dread of their Indian allies than of the Americans; the outrages and the violence of the latter being, of the two, perhaps more endurable than the depredations of the former.  I have smiled on such occasions, for I passed, of course, for an American, and the equivocal compliment was a little on our side.  I cannot help thinking, however, that treachery and double-dealing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>There is in the neighbourhood of San Antonio a silver mine, which has been long but unprofitably worked, affording neither fair returns for capital expended, nor high wages to those employed.  I noticed at the bottom of the streams, and in the fissures of the rocks, numerous minute particles of a metal resembling gold, for which it has often been mistaken; and these deposits frequently came under my observation during our journey.</P>
120.sgm:<P>San Antonio is very solidly built, the walls being of <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm:, or clay, about two feet in thickness, and the houses roofed with red tiles, no house consisting of more than the ground-floor, which is a mode of construction <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I enjoyed a good night's rest in this town, my couch being an old billiard-table, which had been left behind in the house I was quartered in.  Next morning I found that a foraging party had succeeded, in the course of the previous evening, in seizing a number of fresh horses and mules, one of which latter animals, well saddled and bridled, I procured for my own use, after a considerable clamour.  I soon had occasion to congratulate myself on my good luck, for when we came presently to the wild and rugged country, instead of lagging in the rear of the party, I managed to keep pace with the foremost.</P>
120.sgm:<P>One morning, we were near committing a mistake, which might have occasioned the loss of several lives, had we not discovered our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:error just in time to prevent a volley from being fired into an advancing body of men, whom we believed to be Yakee Indians, but who turned out to be twelve Californian <HI REND="italics">ranche&grave;ros</HI>
120.sgm:<P>A sad mischance happened to me one night, during a halt we made.  My good mule, with his well-padded saddle and new bridle, was stolen from me, in spite of the sharp look-out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:I fancied I kept.  I strongly suspected some Spaniards of our party, whose particular duty it was to attend to the <HI REND="italics">cavallard</HI>
120.sgm:<P>In this way we lost several excellent cattle, both horses and mules.  For my own part, to my great annoyance, I was obliged to content myself with a lanky grey horse, which seemed in the last stage of consumption; his back-bone was sharp as a razor, and I had nothing but a blanket in guise of saddle, and for stirrups two long straps of raw hide.  I was assured, however, that my Rosinante <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>In this manner I accomplished fifty miles, or more, and I ought to speak kindly of the poor beast that carried me, though it was at his own pace.  I had not the heart to use switch or spur, when I looked at his spiritless eye, and glanced at his bare ribs, which poked almost through his skin, and showed like so many staves of a barrel.  I am sure, if he suffered as much in carrying me as I did in riding him, it was lucky for both that his pace was not what might have been called "fast," for a trot must inevitably have shaken him to pieces, and sawn my unfortunate body in two: it was awful to contemplate what even a moderately quick walk actually did.  The pilgrim's purgatory of peas in one's shoes must have been Paradise itself, compared to this slow and excruciating mode of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>As we approached Todos Santos, I stopped to arrange the girth of my blanket, which had become loose, when I observed Doctor Freu&uml;nd, the German whom I have already mentioned, sitting on a mound of earth by the road-side, holding his huge portmanteau on his knees, and with a countenance expressive of the deepest misery.  I saw in a moment what was the matter; but to load my beast with the Doctor's portmanteau, which was crammed to bursting with all sorts of medicines, would have been reducing myself to the same miserable plight.  We were, I believed, the only two left in the rear, and there was no alternative but to leave him where he was for a time, as at our next halt it would be easy for one of the best mounted to retrace his steps, and assist the Doctor out of his difficulties.  Accordingly, after hinting my intentions, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:I resumed my journey, but had not proceeded more than a quarter of a mile before he overtook me, mounted on a well saddled horse, and leading another by the <HI REND="italics">hackamore</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"Capital! capital!  Ha, ha, ha!  What fun!  Bravely done, Doctor, and very sensibly."</P>
120.sgm:<P>I became very anxious to learn what the Doctor had done; and our comrade was too full of the subject to delay gratifying my curiosity.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"I stopped behind awhile to rest," resumed he, "with some more of our fellows, who are getting very tired; and, as I was fetching up again, just as I came to the little path that turns off the road a little way back, who should I see but the Doctor, with a six-barrel revolver in each hand, pointed at the heads of two well-mounted but unarmed Spaniards; for they only had knives, which were of no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"`Your horses or your <HI REND="italics">lifes</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"`No <HI REND="italics">entendemos, sen&tilde;or</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"`You don't, don't you?' cried the Doctor, again; `perhabs you <HI REND="italics">saben que ser caballos</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"` <HI REND="italics">Si, sen&tilde;or</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"`Do you <HI REND="italics">saben</HI>
120.sgm: bistol <HI REND="italics">tambien</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"` <HI REND="italics">Si, sen&tilde;or</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"`Vell, den, d--n you,' said the Doctor, ` <HI REND="italics">quieren ustedes soltar sus caballos</HI>
120.sgm:, or I break your hets; dat is, I mean, <HI REND="italics">romper</HI>
120.sgm: your d--n <HI REND="italics">cabesas</HI>
120.sgm: wit <HI REND="italics">estas</HI>
120.sgm: bistols.  You <HI REND="italics">saben</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"` <HI REND="italics">Si, sen&tilde;or, si</HI>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I laughed heartily enough at the recital of this curious adventure, which the Doctor wound up by saying--</P>
120.sgm:<P>"I haf a fery pig knapsack, fitch is fery heffy, and fitch I must pring wit me.  Ven I cot horse, I no care a pig d--n how I ket him."</P>
120.sgm:<P>At last, after many days and nights of weary marching, we came to a wide plain, all sand, and stones, and prickly bushes, but the path across which was so narrow as to oblige us to take to the Indian file again; and a pretty long string we made, being not less than two hundred and twenty in number.  However, in spite of the intense heat and dust, and of the burning thirst that devoured us, we pushed on in tolerable spirits, for we now began to distinguish the heights on which the town of Todos Santos is situated, and from which we were separated only by the plain we were now crossing.  As we drew nearer, we plainly discerned the enemy dotted about on convenient elevations, and a loud <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>A brush with the enemy--A narrow escape--O'Reilly's prowess--An awkward fix--A repast on sugar-canes--The last of my blood-horse--Lost and found--La Paz again--Old acquaintances--Black Jack does more murder--Women of La Paz--Departure for San Jose&acute;.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The main body of the enemy, about four hundred in number, lay posted on the summit of a hill, beyond musket-shot, and apparently extremely well mounted and armed.  As we drew nearer, they waved their flags by way of defiance, and commenced a dropping fire, which however did us no injury, although it served to animate our courage.  Presently we commenced the ascent of the rugged steep on which they were so advantageously posted, when the firing became more sustained, and was returned by us with great spirit and with fatal effect.  All at once we were saluted with a discharge of musketry from the borders of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Our little party consisted of about fifty volunteers, who at once pushed into the jungle, but vainly sought a trace of the enemy.  As we found it impossible to advance in a body, we broke up into fives and sixes; having come to an understanding that we would afford one another mutual support, and direct our steps by the report of the guns.  We soon lost sight of each other in our attempts to clear ourselves a passage through the brambles, and thorn, and underwood, suffering severely from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I was so bewildered by the suddenness of this intimation, that it is a matter of astonishment to me how I escaped the bullet, that--ere the words were well out of O'Reilly's mouth--whistled a most unpleasant tune close to my ear.  I remember standing still for a single <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"Hush, hush!" cried he, (my Irish friend was still invisible) "it's a Yakee!  The cowardly thief's skulking behind a three!  Come out and be shot like a man, you ugly-looking naygur."</P>
120.sgm:<P>Here he stopped short, and presently came plunging to my side with a crash through the bushes in which he had been concealed, armed with a rifle, which I afterwards ascertained he had picked up; it had probably belonged to one of the Californians who had fallen under our fire, and he now kept it close up to his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"Hush!" again muttered O'Reilly, lowering his rifle; "I've got him now; just look what a jig he'll dance."</P>
120.sgm:<P>There was a pause of a few moments--of a minute perhaps--during which we heard the voices of our comrades, varied now and then by the report of a musket; they were not far off, although completely hidden from our view.  I actually trembled with excitement, and though the heat was intense, a cold, clammy sweat stood on my brow, and oozed out at the tips of my fingers.  O'Reilly's rifle still covered the tree, but the Yakee did not move; all at once the report of another musket, very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"Hurrah!" shouted O'Reilly in triumph, "I knew I'd make a clane job of him.  Come on, my beauties, if there are any more of ye."</P>
120.sgm:<P>Telling my companion to moderate his excitement, I proceeded with him to the spot where the Yakee lay.  A fine fellow he was--young, handsome, and powerfully built.  O'Reilly's ball had struck him under the left arm, and had, no doubt, pierced the heart.  To my great annoyance, my companion commenced very coolly appropriating to himself the contents of a small purse of skin, which the Indian wore slung from his belt, as also his cartridges; the rifle he handed to me, and I took it, leaving my musket on the spot.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Sure, all this money's no good to him now," replied he to a remonstrance I ventured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:to make; "the fellow could never have got it honestly, and, if <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
120.sgm:<P>This was correct enough as a prediction, and I afterwards discovered the utter uselessness of remonstrance against the practice of regarding the money that might be found on a fallen foe as so much lawful booty.  In this instance, it only amounted to a few dollars.  I said no more, and proceeded to assist O'Reilly to reload his rifle, the one I had being ready charged: it had been the last act of the Yakee.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We again soon became entangled in the bushes, and separated from each other, both intent upon making the best of our way to our companions, whom we no longer heard in our vicinity.  It was not long, however, before I heard three sharp reports, followed up by the shouts of O'Reilly, whose whereabouts I at last succeeded in discovering.  He was engaged in a hand-to-hand fight with two Yakee Indians, the three having discharged their pieces without effect previously to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>My momentary hesitation was not of much consequence, as it turned out; for, finding he could not get at them, he sprang aside, and, dexterously twisting his rifle round so as to grasp the muzzle, he began whirling it about until he got the chance of bringing the butt-end of it down upon the head of the nearest Indian, who fell instantly; seeing which, the other leaped into the bush and disappeared.  I fired at him as he fled, but, I believe, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>This little affair was scarcely over before my services were claimed in the most piteous accents, and, looking about me, I discovered one of our party so painfully entangled in the adjacent bushes, that to advance or to retreat without assistance was alike impossible.  He had endeavoured, whilst in hot pursuit of the two Yakees in question, to clear at a leap some bushes, the width of which he had not calculated, and being encumbered with his heavy accoutrements, arms, and ammunition, had, in the attempt, fallen short, and plunged into a hollow covered by the brushwood; amongst which he got fast stuck, his body being inextricably bound by coils of brambles and thorny bushes, which had lacerated him in the most cruel manner.  I soon released him; and we set off again, shouting, at the top of our voices, to attract the attention of our comrades.</P>
120.sgm:<P>In the course of another hour, during which we had several smart chases, and wounded a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:number of Yakees and Spaniards, as they made off, we came up with several of our party, and finally emerged from this forest of jungle, all of us most deplorably cut and mangled by the thorns, our clothes torn to rags, the blood and the perspiration streaming from our hands, faces, and legs, and our persons completely encased in a covering of dirt and sand.  We had left our horses and mules at the entrance of the forest, so we had now to walk a considerable distance in search of them.  Thanks to the activity and watchfulness of our guides, we soon recovered them; and, having clambered the heights to which I have already alluded, advanced towards the town.  Every Californian had fled except two, and they wisely lost no time in following the example of their brethren.  The hindmost man we recognised as one of our late guides, and the other fugitive a large, bulky Yakee.  The latter made for the crags at the very top of his speed, and escaped the three first shots that were fired at him--the fourth struck him: he leaped up, then dropped, writhed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We took up our quarters in the church and the adjoining mission buildings, our standard-bearer clambering to the top of the former, where he left our colours flying.  At the corner of the street in which the church stands, we saw a Yakee Indian sitting on a stone, and suffering intense anguish from the effect of a musket-ball, which had shattered the bone of his right leg in the most shocking manner.  We proffered every assistance our medical and surgical resources would allow of, but he stedfastly refused all our offers, and we consequently abandoned him as lost; but some time after I learned, that, under the care of the natives, he had perfectly recovered.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Our men were completely exhausted from the fatigue of the march, the recent fight, and the want of food; and, as soon as we were housed, we began to think of refreshment.  To our consternation, there were but a few pieces of dried beef left; and, what was worse, nothing could be procured, for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:huts had been abandoned and cleared of every thing in the shape of victuals, and our foraging parties returned empty-handed.  In this dilemma we sallied forth in a body, determined to procure wherewith to satisfy Nature's cravings; and, descending from the town, entered one of the loveliest valleys I have ever seen in Lower California, almost encircled by a clear and rapid stream, about eight feet wide, but shallow.  Hungry as we were, the luxury of a bath in our present condition was irresistible, and we plunged into the water like so many spaniels.  Our bathe over, we were further rejoiced by the discovery of an extensive sugar plantation, where the rich canes, just arrived at maturity, stood temptingly inviting.  Never did a herd of famished wolves pounce more ravenously upon a flock than did we upon these delicious canes.  Our knives and jaws were soon in full activity, and we kept the latter hard at work for the space of three mortal hours, without, however, satisfying our stomachs.  At length we were fairly beaten; we could chew no longer, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I may observe, of the church and of the mission buildings, that they are the largest and most imposing structures of the kind in Lower California.  The former has a handsome front and a very lofty steeple, and a gateway, common to the church and the mission-house, opens at once into the interior; the latter has a piazza, to which the pillars, forming arches at the top, impart a rather novel effect; it doubtless formed the favourite promenade of the old Jesuits, who were protected by it from the sun and the rain.  When I looked around upon the desolate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The church was ransacked in search of valuables, but every article of price had already disappeared, save sundry robes in which the priests were accustomed to officiate at the altar, and the gold and silver lace on which were stripped off, and converted into ornaments for the head-stalls of the men's horses and mules.</P>
120.sgm:<P>In the mission-house we had a somewhat remarkable prisoner in the person of Father Gabriel, the head of the church in California, and one of those intriguing, restless, and turbulent spirits who had most contributed to excite the people to take arms.  He was a short, thick-set, and unwieldy specimen of clerical self-denial, with a head as bald and shining as a newly-polished orange, to the complexion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:of which that of his face closely approximated.  The expression of his countenance was decidedly sensual; but there was a keenness in his brilliant eye that denoted the shrewd, worldly mind, and the clever political concocter of schemes.  He was reputed wealthy, and possessed a large <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm: at a short distance from Todos Santos, where he employed a great many Indians in the manufacturing of soap, <HI REND="italics">penocha</HI>
120.sgm:<P>We had not been long in the town before we were invaded by a number of Yakees, who came to surrender themselves as prisoners, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>One evening we came upon a Yakee <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>My poor "blood-horse" was now so completely worn out, that, finding him worse than useless--for he had become a burden--I made up my mind to abandon him, which I accordingly did, not far from a patch of pasture, and from a tolerably well-beaten track.  I was myself scarcely less fatigued, and lagged behind several times to snatch a little rest.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:Many of our party did the same; indeed, I remarked, that the stoutest and biggest gave in first; whilst the little fellows--I am small myself--battled it out bravely, and got along with much less seeming difficulty.  On one of these occasions, I tarried behind a full hour after the last of our laggards had passed me; but, finding dusk fast setting in, I recommenced my journey, and went on until I lost the path.  At first, I stood aghast, looking behind and before, to the left, to the right--and, in short, in every direction, but in vain.  I went a little way back, and tried to make out the track; then, not succeeding, pushed on ahead, but with no better fortune.  I turned round and struck off at random, continuing my course until I came to a dead stop at an ugly shelf of rock overlooking a deep chasm between the crags.  I will not attempt to describe my feelings.  I remember thinking of my mother and friends, and of a picture I had somewhere seen of the finding of a lost traveller's skeleton.  I think I then said the "Lord's Prayer," and afterwards sat down and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Unbounded was my joy, on reaching a turn in the course I was following, to come <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:upon an Indian hut, in front of which were two natives with their mules saddled and bridled, they having, apparently, just arrived.  There was yet sufficient light to enable me to distinguish them to be Californians, not Yakees; but I did not feel so sure of them as to be at my ease, however great the relief I experienced at being rescued from the lingering death I had anticipated.  Nevertheless, I went up and strove to make them comprehend that I had lost my way, and was entirely at their mercy: their only reply was, "No, no!"  After a long and fruitless attempt to brighten up their understandings by a complicated series of telegraphic signs, and perceiving that they were about to remount, I intimated my wish to get up behind one of them--selecting the lesser man of the two, out of pity to his beast--and adding, " <HI REND="italics">Soldado Americano</HI>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Now, as I did not relish being left behind, and had not yet lost all hope, I made no ceremony, but nimbly leaped upon the mule I had selected, just as its rider had taken his seat, whom I firmly grasped, and who, to my surprise, and no small satisfaction, gave his animal the spur without taking the least notice of me.  In fact, I thought he seemed rather amused, if anything.  I could not help wondering, however, where this adventure would terminate, for, although I retained my rifle, they were not unarmed, and I felt myself wholly in their power, and even fancied how easily they might carry me off a prisoner.  The first intimation I procured of their possibly being friends, was by my hand coming into contact with an India rubber knapsack, which my companion carried before him, and which he had hinted to me his desire that I should grasp, probably because, as I sat, I somewhat inconvenienced his movements.  I knew, by the peculiar make of this knapsack, that it belonged to our volunteer corps, and began to conjecture whether these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:two men might not form a part of our body of Californian guides; on the other hand, it might be spoil taken from one of the comrades we had lost: however, my doubts were in due time set at rest by our coming up to a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:<P>After taking some refreshment, we renewed our march; the country through which we passed being, if anything, even wilder than our former route.  No circumstance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We had been back about ten days, when we heard of the return of Black Jack, and a party of fifty men, who had been sent out on an expedition to the head of the gulf; and the same person who brought this news likewise informed us that two Indians, whom they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:had captured some fifty miles off and conducted hither, had just been shot by command of this officer.  Several of us went to the spot where the tragedy had been enacted, and there saw the two dead bodies, and several of our men digging graves in the sand.   I felt deep disgust, when I came to learn the particulars of this murder, which seemed to have been perpetrated without any pretext, even regarding it in the light of an execution.  It appeared that they had surrendered themselves prisoners, and the men had spared their lives, nothwithstanding Black Jack's orders that every Indian they took should be shot on the spot.  He justified the act, by asserting that they had committed violence on some women at one of the <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;s</HI>
120.sgm:, where the party had halted some days before; but this was the first the men had heard of it, and the whole story was besides so improbable, seeing that the men had never been lost sight of, that it could be attributed to nothing save a reckless spirit of blood-shedding.  I afterwards ascertained that one of the victims was a Yakee; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I found our old friend Wettermark snugly installed in a hut which he had constructed very neatly of bamboo, and covered with dry leaves, quite in the Indian style.  He had taken this trouble because he neither liked his quarters nor his companions, who were always plaguing him, and because he wanted to place beyond the reach of its tormentors a cub-fox he had caught in one of his iron traps, and which he had tamed.  But the oddest circumstance connected with this affair was, that he had succeeded, by importuning the colonel, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Our time at La Paz did not hang heavily upon our hands, for we soon made acquaintance with the townspeople, who received us very hospitably, and entertained us well.  Nor can I take leave of this place without bearing testimony to the beauty of its women, those of Castilian descent being perhaps the handsomest; although the next caste, namely, that but slightly tinctured with Indian blood, might fairly lay an equal claim to the palm.  The pure Indians are coarse and swarthy, as, indeed, are all the Mexicans, but perfect models of form, and of most winning gentleness and kindness.  The usual dress of the women consists of a white muslin or calico gown, extremely loose to the figure, with a <HI REND="italics">rebosa</HI>
120.sgm: or scarf of the same, which they cast over their heads, and let fall in graceful folds about their persons.  Their feet are protected by a tiny slipper, frequently of the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:delicate texture, which barely covers the toes, the instep being left exposed.  The majority dispense with stockings, but, as their dress reaches to the ancle, these are superfluous.  I have seen some, too, who allowed the body of their gown to fall about their waist, substituting for it, so as partially to conceal their bust and their arms, a <HI REND="italics">camisas</HI>
120.sgm: of the simplest form.  The heat of the climate renders a loose style of dress absolutely necessary for ordinary comfort's sake.  I may add, that the women perform the most laborious household work, such as cutting up, salting, and drying, beef, grinding corn for <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
120.sgm:<P>We remained a fortnight in La Paz, after the return from Todos Santos, and then received an intimation that we were to proceed to San Jose&acute;, which town had been fixed upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>San Jose&acute;--The Valley of San Jose&acute;--Drills, sickness, convalescense, and sentiment--The inhabitants of San Jose&acute;--Mutiny--Black Jack again--Native funereal ceremonies--Black Jack's disgrace--First news of the gold mines--Embarkation for Monterey--Premonitory symptoms of the gold fever.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Our landing was effected with no further discomfort than was to be expected from our having to incur the chances of a ducking; as the boats were unable, on account of the shallowness of the water and the strong tide, to approach within a comfortable distance of <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
120.sgm:.  This, however, reckoned for nothing: nor did our tedious march to the town, though it was only three miles from the beach; nor our being several times nearly buried alive in the heaps of sand that filled the hollows of the road; nor our having to wade through a stream of some twenty feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The principal, indeed the only regular street in the town, is wide and long, the houses being constructed of <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm: and cane, thatched with palm leaves.  It is blocked up at the remoter end by the fort, which stands upon a wide foundation of rock of considerable elevation; various portions of the <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm: walls connecting the crags having been pierced, so as to allow artillery to be trained through the embrasures, whilst, in other parts, there are numerous loopholes for musketry.  There are some very awkward cavities amongst these rocks, produced, as I subsequently ascertained, by digging for clay for the <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm: work.  The fort is flat-roofed and parapetted, having portholes for cannon; and below, in the very centre of the building, occupying about a third of its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>In the <HI REND="italics">correl</HI>
120.sgm: I found, huddled up in one corner, about thirty Yakees and Indians of Lower California, many of them doubly-ironed, and most of them half naked, whilst all were dirty, and fierce even in bondage.  Some marines were mounted as a guard over them and were engaged in animated conversation with several coarse-looking women, their paramours; the latter had sought the protection of the Americans, and distinguished themselves in the recent conflicts, having endured, in common with the men, the most severe privations.  The majority were weeping and sobbing; being on the point of separation from the objects of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<illus entity="a120-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN JOSE.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The town of San Jose&acute; is one of the most extraordinary creations, in the shape of a dwelling-place, that I have ever seen.  The heavy rains and freshets which occur in the wet season, in this region, render every elevation invaluable as a preservative against the dangers of sudden inundations; hence all the houses are built upon steeps, rocks, and hillocks, necessarily irrespective of order; so that, even in the most densely populated districts, barren hills, as yet unoccupied by dwellings, are frequently to be met with, with deep hollows in every part, converting mere visits into positive enterprises, in most instances both tedious and disagreeable.  To these great natural disadvantages, the indolence of the inhabitants has added others, their common practice being to dig for <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm: clay at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>But my description of the town would be incomplete without adding that it is dotted about in these hollows, and in the sand-holes in the rocks, with patches of thorn, brush, and cacti, forming a singular yet refreshing contrast with the general barrenness of the region itself, the whole being surrounded by a bleak mountainous range, which increases in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I ought, however, not to omit stating that this desert region is redeemed from its ungenial character by the beautiful valley of San Jose&acute;, which stretches right across the peninsula, from the Pacific Ocean to the Gulf of California, a distance of not less than from a hundred and fifty to nearly two hundred miles.</P>
120.sgm:<P>It is with a feeling approximating to wonderment that the spectator looks down upon the opening of this valley from a precipitous hill close to the fort; so unprepared is he, by the general aspect of nature here, to behold a sandy plain thickly studded with luxuriant orchards and plantations, surrounded and enclosed by tropical plants of great height and beauty, with narrow paths intersecting the bushes and brushwood, and here and there a solitary <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>A few days after our arrival, the remains of M'Clanahan were exhumed, and deposited in a rude coffin, previously to their being conveyed to the spot selected for their last resting-place.  The body had been at first interred in a temporary grave dug in one corner of the <HI REND="italics">correl</HI>
120.sgm:<P>Our duties in this place were extremely severe; we had drills in the morning, drills in the afternoon, and very frequently artillery exercise; for, as the natives gave open intimation of their hatred of the Americans, apprehensions were entertained of a rising, and it was thought prudent to be prepared for the worst.  The fatigue proved too much for me; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:and being constantly exposed to the broiling sun, I fell sick of the <HI REND="italics">calentura</HI>
120.sgm:<P>On my recovery, I usually sought the society of the natives, who ever received and treated me with the greatest kindness, and to whom I soon recommended myself by my poor talent for sketching portraits.  I found the women to possess an extremely pleasing exterior; their complexion was a little dark, perhaps, but this imparted additional piquancy to their countenances.  Their costume being of the simplest possible character, afforded me many opportunities of admiring their fair proportions.  They are indeed singularly well-shaped, though somewhat remarkable for <HI REND="italics">embonpoint</HI>
120.sgm:<P>With one of these Californian maidens I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:almost fell desperately in love; indeed, considering how shattered my nervous system had become from illness, and how romantically kind Cacusa showed herself in her simple attentions, my wonderment is that I did not become inextricably involved in a downright sentimental dilemma.  She was very beautiful, and that is the plain, honest truth; so beautiful, I should fear to describe her, lest my portraiture might be thought to be merely drawn from imagination.  I will, therefore, dismiss the subject, merely observing that I was somewhat surprised at finding that the Christian name of my rustic beauty was synonymous with "Jesus;" it being the custom of the country to christen persons by all sorts of Scriptural names, without reference to their appropriateness to sex or to circumstance; and that, although I did <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
120.sgm:<P>The population of San Jose&acute; may average three thousand persons, the majority being semi-Indians, or the pure descendants of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:Mexicans.  Our volunteers were well received amongst them, and experienced numerous acts of kindness at their hands.  They are greatly addicted to gambling, their favourite game being <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:<P>I may add that the ladies of San Jose&acute;, as of the whole of Lower California, are extravagantly fond of smoking; their <HI REND="italics">cigaritos</HI>
120.sgm:<P>The usual beverages, besides water, are wine, <HI REND="italics">mascal</HI>
120.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
120.sgm:.  The two latter are manufactured in large quantities in the valley <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The fertile parts of the country produce wheat, maize, beans, pease, sweet potatoes and Irish, sugar-cane, vegetables of all sorts in profusion, and abundance of fruits, including oranges, limes, lemons, plantain, and other kinds of tropical fruits, all of which are cultivated in their utmost luxuriance.  But the <HI REND="italics">petia</HI>
120.sgm:, which is taken from a species of the cactus, appears to be the general favourite in California, and the inhabitants have a method of converting it into a kind of jam, or preserve, which, being put up in the leaves of the Indian corn, in quantities of from a quarter to half a pound, is retailed at the price of a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I have already observed that the valley of San Jose&acute;, taken as a whole, seems extremely fertile; and I may add, that the land in California, susceptible of cultivation, yields, in proportion to the quantity under culture, the largest crops in the world.  If artificial means of irrigation were introduced, the happiest effects would result, for bread-stuffs could then be produced in abundance, and thus would be removed the great drawback at present existing to a large and rapid increase of the population of Lower California.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Abundance of rain falls here during the winter season, which, I think, might easily be husbanded in convenient reservoirs, so as to furnish an easy supply when wanted, and be made to fertilize extensive tracks of the valley, which are now lying neglected and waste, from no other cause than the want of the means of proper irrigation.  I was informed that every three or four years, the entire country is swept by terrific tornadoes, accompanied with torrents of water.  These rains prove highly acceptable to the natives, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The severity of the discipline here became so excessive, that irregularities soon broke out, which shortly afterwards ripened into absolute insubordination.  The culprits were committed to the black-hole, many of them for offences extremely trivial; and with the thermometer at 80 and 90 in the month of May, their sufferings became severe to an excess.  I ought to state that their place of confinement was simply one half of the guard-room, which had been separated from the other by a strong party-wall of <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm:, built up to the ceiling, and having but the very smallest aperture for the admission of light and air, and this in quantities barely sufficient for the preservation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The death of one of the natives, soon after our arrival here, afforded me an opportunity of witnessing the singular ceremonies observed on such occasions.  The body, being enshrouded in white muslin, is bedecked with flowers, and laid out upon a table.  The friends and relatives are next invited, and a feast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I have already twice alluded to "Black Jack," in connexion with several deeds of blood, for the commission of which no one had ever ventured to assert that he had any authority.  One day, during our stay here, there came an express, which was read to the volunteers on parade, and which proved to be a command from Governor Mason, that "Black Jack" should be forthwith arrested on the charge of having unlawfully shot two Californians and two Yakee Indian chiefs, and that he should be confined until he could take his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Whilst we were here awaiting the arrival of the despatch which was to release us from service, news reached us of several extensive and prolific gold mines having been discovered in Upper California, and of large fortunes having been realized in an incredibly brief space of time, by the lucky few who chanced to be on the spot, or in the more immediate neighbourhood.  At first, the report was treated very lightly, the majority of our men laughing at the idea of gold being found in abundance on the ground; and the whole affair being considered as a hoax got up to induce an emigration into those parts, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>At last information was received of the signing of the treaty of peace, and we expected to be at once dismissed.  Unfortunately a serious difficulty presented itself to prevent our departure, and we were compelled to remain three months longer, until negociations had been entered into for the satisfactory adjustment of the question at issue.  It appears that the Americans had agreed to renounce all pretensions to Lower California, whilst the colonel commanding the troops there had given the people to understand that the United States would never resign the country; hence, he found himself seriously compromised with the natives, many of whom had joined the Americans, believing that under their flag they would enjoy a greater degree of liberty, and more certain protection of life and property.  On this supposition, and presuming that the United States' Government would certainly not relinquish the country it had conquered, they had abandoned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Our destination was Monterey; and we had not been long on board the Ohio, before we again heard of the gold mines, and of the gold fever.  Three Germans, who had embarked with us at San Jose&acute;, were determined to seek their fortunes in the favoured country, and had amply provided themselves with every requisite.  The sailors related the most extraordinary accounts which had been received from "the diggings," and ere long the entire conversation turned, and continued to turn, upon the same topic, every one being infected more or less with the mania for gold-hunting, and more or less resolved to gratify it, as soon as the opportunity for doing so should present itself.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>Monterey after the gold-fever--Gold a stronger allurement than glory--The Governor decamps--Difficulty upon difficulty--Disgraceful disbanding of the volunteer corps--Pardon, and escape of "Black Jack"--Organization of gold-hunting parties--Mining regulations--A murder--My own resolution--I get up a party--Bargains for horses--Spanish trickery--A fresh dilemma--Final preparations--The start for the mines.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We reached Monterey again towards the end of August, and landed full of hope, feeling satisfied we should be immediately disbanded, paid, and once more our own masters; free to seek fortune at the "diggings," or elsewhere if we fancied it.  But a sore disappointment awaited us.  Governor Mason had decamped to the mines; the streets were unpeopled; the houses empty, and the town deserted: with the exception of a stray "regular" now and then, not a living soul <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Colonel B-- now assumed the command of the post in the absence of the Governor; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:and, upon application being made to him for quarters, we were informed there were none provided, and we must shift in tents as well as we could.  The misery of such accommodations soon became intolerable, for, having come from a very warm latitude but recently, the cold and the torrents of rain together threatened to convert every tent into an hospital.  In this strait, we resolved to procure better lodgings at any risk, and proceeded at once to break open and instal ourselves in such houses as we judged most suited to our wants.  I took possession of the school house--the door of which I ought, in self justification, to add, stood invitingly open--and found the private apartments of the schoolmaster exceedingly comfortable.  The rest of the house was rapidly appropriated by other parties, and became crowded to excess.  Some of the volunteers, nevertheless, preferred remaining in their tents, for reasons which we were not long in discovering.  They were on the look-out for horses, which they were of opinion could be better looked after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We all felt anxious to be moving towards the valley of gold as soon as possible, but not a word had we yet heard respecting what was just then of very considerable importance to us, namely, the pay which the Government owed us for several months' service, and an honourable and formal discharge--lacking which latter document, we should want our title to the one hundred and sixty acres of land that had been promised to the volunteers as an additional incentive--over and above their pay--to remain faithful to their country's flag.  Indeed, so many were the difficulties experienced by us at last in procuring this important instrument, and so desirous were we to depart, that, with two exceptions, the whole body of us were obliged to take the Colonel's verbal dismissal; a circumstance that ultimately involved the majority in an extreme difficulty, when they sought to prove their right to the land in question.</P>
120.sgm:<P>As we found that no intimation was given <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:us of the period when we might expect to be dismissed, and the time was rapidly passing away, we applied to the Colonel, who replied that he had no power, in the absence of the Governor, to formally discharge the volunteers, and they must, therefore, wait.  But the men were growing too impatient to accept this answer as final, and appealed to the Commodore.  He, however, refused to interfere, on the plea of this matter being a military question, but expressed an opinion that the Colonel possessed sufficient authority as commander of the post.  Further delays ensued, additional remonstrances, more procrastination, stronger representations--but we persisted in our demand until the Colonel finally yielded; probably in consequence of orders received, in the interim, from Governor Mason.  A day was accordingly appointed for us to be paid off, when, it being discovered that four or five of the tents had been secreted or carried off, we were informed that we should not be discharged until they were forthcoming.  This proceeding, although perfectly just, so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I ought, perhaps, to observe, that these tents had been secreted, to serve as accommodation to a party who were bent upon starting at once for the mines, and who were resolved to go as comfortably equipped as possible.  They probably argued, that, as Government had failed in fulfilling its promise to them, they were entitled to make free with anything belonging to it as a set-off against unrequited extra services.  I can only add, that I do not feel any surprise at such a step being taken, for the conduct of the Government towards the volunteers was a disgrace <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Fortunately for us, there arrived here, at this crisis, one Colonel Stevenson, with a party of men from Pueblo de Los Angelos, the whole of them being on their way to the mines.  To his influence we owed a supply of flint-lock muskets, in the proportion of one to every two men, twenty cartridges, and one month's rations; all of which we received as so much instalment on what was really due to us, namely, mileage and scrip, to say nothing of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>It was, doubtless, entirely attributable to the excitement of the moment that little more than passing heed was taken of a circumstance which, at any other time, would have been fraught with deep interest to us, namely, the discharge of the so-called mutineers of San Jose&acute;, who had been brought hither on board the Ohio, and were now liberated without trial, in consequence of the promulgation of a general pardon granted by the President of the United States to all military and naval offenders then in durance.  No doubt, a courtmartial would have aquitted the men, who, during their stay on board the Ohio, had been released from their irons; and, in so far as they were concerned, we all sincerely rejoiced at the event; but we regretted extremely that the extension of the pardon indiscriminately to all should have enabled "Black <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We were no sooner our own masters again, than there commenced on all sides a series of the most active preparations for a journey to the mines.  The plan adopted was to form bands of three, five, or ten, under the leadership of one of the number, whose name the party took, and continued to be distinguished by.  A set of written rules was drawn up for the regulation of the general interests, these rules varying in certain points, according to the peculiar views of particular associations.  The purport of the majority of them, however, ran as follows:--</P>
120.sgm:<P>"We, the undersigned, hereby agree to form ourselves into a party, to be denominated --'s Mining Company, and to adhere to the following rules and regulations.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"1.  That we shall each bear an equal share in all expenses incurred for the general advantage, such as the purchase of a yoke of oxen, a cart, horses, packs, &amp;c.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"2.  That we all proceed together to the gold mines, and that no man be allowed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"3.  That, in case of unavoidable separation, each person be allowed to take out an amount of goods or money equivalent to the original investment, less what he may have consumed or injured.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"4.  That we work together in the mines, using the tools and property of the party in common.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"5.  That each man be allowed to retain all he can make by digging, but that he shall contribute to the company his equal portion of the funds necessary for the purchase of food and other things for the common use.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"6.  That in case of difficulty or danger, we stand by each other under all circumstances.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"7.  That no sick man shall be abandoned, but every possible means adopted to restore him to health.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"8.  That each man, in his turn, shall do his share of the general work, namely, cooking, attending to the horses, chopping wood, fetching water, &amp;c.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"9.  That any member separating himself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"10.  That any man proved guilty of stealing from or robbing any member of his company shall be immediately expelled, and forfeit the whole of his property."</P>
120.sgm:<P>Such is a correct outline of the kind of agreement by which the gold-hunters bound themselves, before proceeding to the mines.  Some of these contracts were, however, somewhat at variance with the habits and practices of the contracting parties: one company, for instance, the members of which were distinguished for dishonesty and drunkenness, fully appreciating the advantages to a community of probity and sobriety, subscribed to two rules specially introduced; one of which was to the effect, that, at the close of each day's work, they should severally place the product of their labour in one common fund, to be afterwards divided into equal shares, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>In this particular instance, the rule relating to inebriety proved null in its effect, for, within three days after it had been subscribed to, four of the number were seen rolling in a state of intoxication about the town; with regard to the previous one, I can say nothing.  I know that the party contrived to keep together till they reached the mines, but there, I subsequently ascertained, they quarrelled, separated, and were soon scattered.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Whilst our men were preparing for their departure, making purchases, packing provisions, and equipping themselves and their horses, the discovery of the body of one of our number cast a deep gloom over our spirits.  He was found at the bottom of a well, with a deep cut over his head, evidently inflicted by a sharp instrument.  An accordion, on which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>In the midst of all this excitement, I myself felt undecided whether to travel towards the mines, or in an opposite direction.  My predilections were strongly turned to South America, the climate being more suited to my sickly state of health; but being disappointed of a companion, I determined, after many days' delay, to set off for the mines.  But by this time nearly all the parties had been formed, and I found myself almost alone, in a deserted town, where there were no means of living, no business, and from which, if I remained much longer, there would be no chance of escape.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>In this dilemma, I began looking up the stragglers; for, unless I succeeded in getting together a small party of my own, the only alternative left me would be the disagreeable and dangerous one of journeying alone.  As may be imagined, the best men were already gone, and I therefore had to select such as I could find--an unfortunate circumstance for the kind of expedition I contemplated.  However, I got together five individuals, who, consenting to my proposition, immediately subscribed to a code of regulations drawn up by myself, one of which was to the effect that all property, not purchased nor made use of avowedly for the common good, should be considered private, and respected accordingly.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The preliminaries being thus far arranged, my next step was to make the necessary purchases; but, to my great disappointment, oxen, horses, mules, carts, and in fact everything required for our expedition, had become scarce, and had increased inordinately in value; and, as our means were limited, this circumstance threatened to prove fatal to our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, I sought to procure a horse for my own particular convenience, but my entire stock of money did not exceed forty dollars, and a portion of this had to be set aside, as my share of the price of the yoke and cart.  Whilst I was deliberating how to make the most of my small capital, a coloured man of Monterey came to see me, who chanced to have a horse to dispose of.  But he wanted fifty dollars for it, and refused to take a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>These formalities and precautions are very necessary in California, where, horses being valuable, horse-stealing is considered almost a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Halliday, another of our party, likewise succeeded in "making a trade" for a horse, or "swapping" for him, as the Yankees term the act of barter.  He gave an epine watch and a few handsome articles of apparel which took the fancy of the Spaniard who made the exchange, and he went away chuckling over his bargain.  His animal and mine were put up together in the school-house yard, and he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>So much time having now been lost in preparation, I proposed that the members of my party should meet in my apartment, on a certain evening, for the purpose of paying over their respective shares to the common stock, in order to complete the purchase of our yoke and team.  But, although every one agreed to meet, three of the party went that evening to Abrigos, and gambled away at <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
120.sgm: every cent they possessed.  We were thus left without sufficient funds to procure the means of transport; until Halliday, Parker, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We were much embarrassed and very uneasy concerning our companions, whom we did not like to leave behind at Monterey, well knowing the privations and misery they would have to endure; therefore, and notwithstanding their improvidence, we determined to permit them to accompany us.  One of them had already, I should state, left us, and set off after another party, then <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
120.sgm:<P>Having manufactured pack-saddles, and bestowed away our month's provisions, our cooking utensils, and other necessaries, and I having consented to allow my horse to be used for the pack of our two companions, the larger of the two other horses being reserved for a similar purpose, and the second as a resource, in case of a break down, we met, five in number, namely, Devin, Halliday, Drew, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>The first bivouac--A stranger--A traveller's wallet--My companions--Californian cow-catching--The stranger's exploits in horse-finding--Novel experiment in farriery--Slap-jacks--Our fresh horses claimed--I lose my steed--Misfortunes thicken--News of my horse--His sagacity--Our journey resumed.</P>
120.sgm:<P>As it was somewhat late when we set out--for we were resolved not to pass another night in Monterey--a march of some miles across the deep sands leading to the Salina plains brought us to a full stop at a very beautiful and thickly-wooded part of the road, where we determined to pass the night.  We placed our arms, packs, and saddles, against the venerable trunk of a tree, the rich, overhanging foliage and branches of which promised to afford us ample shelter and protection from the heavy dews.  On each side of the road arose lofty trees; and through the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>As soon as we came to a halt, one of the party set to work to chop wood, and we soon had a blazing fire almost in the middle of the road; a second began roasting the coffee; a third went in search of water; whilst I proceeded to tether the horses in a convenient spot between our encampment and a lofty hill in our rear, where there was abundance of grass, and they might easily be watched.  To boil the water, broil the dried beef, and grind the coffee--or pound it rather--between two large stones, it being first deposited in a bag, were duties soon performed; and we sate down to a meal, simple enough, in all conscience, but which was heartily relished around that cheerful blaze, the conversation being made up of conjectures as to the result of our adventurous expedition.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Night had long thrown its shadows around <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:us, and we were seated, each of us upon a log, chatting cozily around the fire, whose flickering glare cast a peculiar glow upon surrounding objects, when we suddenly heard the tramp of horses, and in the course of a few minutes a singular-looking individual presented himself in our midst.  His figure and general appearance were wild in the extreme.  He was a man below the middle height, dressed in a short jacket, partially covered with fur, his legs being encased in leathers, reaching to the knees, a costume adopted by the Californians to protect their <HI REND="italics">calcineros</HI>
120.sgm: on a long journey.  He wore a fur cap, from beneath which his hair stuck out in bristles, and his countenance was far from prepossessing, his features being sharp, and his small grey eyes restless and inquisitive, with a peculiar look of shyness.  By his side hung a cutlass, a weapon rarely used ashore, even in California, and which, taken in connexion with his strange aspect, tended to produce in our minds an unfavourable impression of his intentions, as we did not know but he might <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The stranger bade us good evening, as he alighted from his beast, a compliment which we of course returned.  He at once discovered us to be Americans, by our accent, and informed us he could not speak English.  I in turn ascertained--as he addressed us in a mixture of Spanish and French--that he was a Frenchman; and he confirmed my suspicions, proceeding to inform me how he came to be in our company.</P>
120.sgm:<P>He had been employed by a Mr. R--, at the mission of San Miguel, to take care of his cattle and horses during his absence at the mines.  His employer had promised to be back in two months, or three at the most, and to pay him handsomely for his services; but he having absented himself beyond the stipulated period, and the Frenchman being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Having imparted this piece of information, without waiting for any invitation to join our party around the fire, he led away his horses to some little distance from us, where, removing their bridles and saddles, he fastened them by a hackamore to the tough branches of a tree, and, leaving them to feed off what they could pick up, returned to us, bringing back his saddles and a canvass bag, which he opened before us.  It contained a quantity of <HI REND="italics">penoche</HI>
120.sgm:, which is, I believe, made of ground <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>He fumbled a good while in the second bag, until he produced a scrap of dirty and crumpled-up paper, which he handed me to read.  It proved to be written agreement between him and his employer, and was intended, I suppose, as a sort of certificate of his good intentions.  As we were well armed, we had nothing to fear, even had his purpose been mischievous; but we were so glad to have a new companion--especially one who possessed two horses--that no difficulty was raised to his becoming one of our party; and as he appeared equally glad of the chance of company, he accepted our invitation, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We were all stirring by daylight next morning, and were preparing breakfast, when some of the officers of the Ohio, who were on a shooting excursion, came up.  They accepted of our hospitality, and bade us farewell with many kind wishes for our success.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The deep sand considerably impeded our progress, but the country generally was picturesque and pleasing, the land being alternately of the richest and of the barrenest description, now rising into lofty hills, now stretching into plains, or sinking into deep valleys.  We marched at the rate of not more than twenty miles a day, and I soon began to appreciate the character of my companions.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Halliday was a man of a strong constitution and powerful frame, and kept always in advance.  Devin lagged behind, evincing a decided disinclination for our mode of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>As we advanced further into the interior, we were enabled to form some idea of the general character of the country.  In most instances, the sides of the mountains are covered with plentiful crops of wild oats, but trees and water are scarce, being, in fact, the two chief deficiencies both of Upper and Lower California.  It was only at intervals of from ten to twenty miles that we met with a few trees and a pond, or a stream, where we could obtain a little shelter from a broiling sun, and sufficient wood and water to establish a tolerable encampment.</P>
120.sgm:<P>On the Salina plains we saw innumerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We encamped, the second night, in the neighbourhood of a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:, where, upon procuring, after no small difficulty, a supply of fresh beef, we paid at the rate of a dollar for what was scarcely worth sixpence.  As we were on the point of starting in the morning, a Spanish <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
120.sgm:, of a very noble and dashing appearance, and mounted on a fine-spirited horse, came rattling up to us.  Round the pommel of his saddle was cast one end of a lasso, ready for use; the other he kept swinging round and round his head, in such an artistical manner, that, as he surveyed us, I began to apprehend he had some design upon our cattle.  However, he merely reined in his steed to salute us; and the next moment darted off, at full gallop, after one of the cows on the plain, which he noosed round her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:horns, and then permitted to run before him, dexterously guiding her towards a house in the distance, where, upon an Indian making his appearance, the poor creature was driven into an adjacent <HI REND="italics">correl</HI>
120.sgm:<P>I had often enjoyed the advantage of seeing the lasso used by the Californians, and ever marvelled exceedingly at the dexterity and strength they exhibit in securing the very largest animal in the herd.  Whatever its power, the lasso overcomes it; and it is really wonderful to witness the skill with which they adapt their movements and the action of their horses to those of the ensnared animal; now bringing it short up, half dead with fatigue--then, after allowing it to breathe again, giving it rope to scamper off to the end of its tether; driving it sometimes with marvellous swiftness in one direction, then permitting it to follow the bent of its own inclination in another, until the wearied animal becomes a mere plaything in their hands, and is either quietly secured, or as quietly allows itself to be driven into a shed.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We passed the Salina plains, and came to a full stop at a place where three roads, or, more strictly speaking, pathways, branched off in different directions.  We sought in vain for the track of a wagon, our sole resource in the absence of guides, and, lacking which, to find the right road was next to impossible.  We halted, of necessity; and, after due consultation, despatched Halliday back across the plains to endeavour to procure the necessary information.  On his return, he informed us that our route lay to the right, and in that direction accordingly we proceeded, notwithstanding the grumbling of our companions, who were now becoming clamorous, to be allowed to ride, for they vowed they could walk no further.  Our horses were much in the same predicament; and I know not what we should have done but for Monsieur Frederic, who, coming to the rescue, assured them that, if they would only take courage, he would soon show them that he had not been living in California for nothing.</P>
120.sgm:<P>He was as good as his word; for, in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:course of another hour, during which time we had lost sight of him, he rejoined our party, leading a splendid-looking animal in a lasso.  On inspection of it, however, we perceived a sore on its back of about one foot in extent; from which circumstances I concluded that it had been ridden until it became useless, and was then abandoned.  But Monsieur Frederic was off again; and, in the course of another half hour, returned with a second horse, in much the same plight as the first; nor did he appear at all annoyed at the reproaches that were cast upon him for bringing such sorry beasts to the rescue.  On the contrary, he only laughed, and shook his head knowingly, and winked, and fumbled in his canvass-bag, till he fished up the bladder of lard, and a couple of cloths, on which he proceeded to spread a portion of the contents of the bladder.  I call them cloths, but they were, in reality, two strips torn off from an old shirt: these, being duly prepared, he applied them to the sores on the animals' backs, binding over the tender place a longer strip of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We encamped that night on the summit of a steep ascent, where there were a few trees and some thick bushes.  Near us grew an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We had all lain down to sleep, except Monsieur Frederic, whose turn it was to watch; and I was dozing and dreaming, when his voice, as he indulged in a series of oaths in his native tongue, suddenly aroused me.  I heard a plunging, and a wrestling, and trampling of hoofs, and sounds of blow, but without being able to discover the cause until I betook myself to the spot.  By the light of the fire, I beheld him flourishing his cutlass over one of the horses, which, every now and then, he struck with the flat side of the weapon, whilst the animal struggled desperately to get away from him.  In a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Before we started next morning, we held a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:consultation as to the best means of husbanding our resources in biscuit, the result of which was, that we agreed to convert a portion of our flour into "slap-jacks."  This primitive substitute for bread is manufactured by mixing up some flour and water in a tin, seasoning with salt, and frying in a pan of grease.  It is the Californian and Yankee travellers' grand resource when biscuit and beef fail; and, though some over-fastidious stomachs may turn at the bare notion of eating such an unpromising preparation, I can only wish them such appetites as are got by rough exercise and privation, to ensure their eating slap-jacks with extraordinary relish.  Frederic, Halliday, and myself, set to work upon the "jacks," and soon tossed up a sufficiency for our purpose; breakfast was then despatched, cans of water obtained, our packs and saddles re-adjusted, and we resumed our route: not, however, without serious squabbles with our three other companions, who positively refused to lend any assistance in performing the necessary labour.  But to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The country through which we were now proceeding did not differ greatly from those portions we had already traversed.  The same deficiency of trees, the same profuse growth of wild oats of the tallest description, the same undulating landscape--now sand, now rich soil, but the latter rendered unfruitful in consequence of the scarcity of water, and unfitted for the residence of man.  Occasionally we came to extensive plains, covered with numerous herds of wild cattle and horses, where the herbage was eaten so close to the ground as to leave the whole surface bare; but, as the animals presented a sleek appearance, we inferred that they roamed to considerable distances; and, having exhausted the pasturage in one district, repaired to others, guided by their unerring instincts.  We were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Our next encampment was in the immediate vicinity of an extensive and beautiful lake, the surface of which was undisturbed, save by myriads of wild geese, ducks, and other water-fowl, that, on our approach, started up in alarm; but, after fluttering about, settled down on another part of the watery expanse.  We could easily have shot some, but powder was too valuable a commodity to waste, and we left them unmolested.  Besides, the toolies grew so thick and tangled, and the soil was so boggy, it would have been almost impossible to secure our game without incurring extreme personal risk.  To the right of us, to the left, and in the distance, arose a succession of hills, covered with the most luxuriant vegetation, their summits crowned with stately pine, and oak, and palms; whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We continued our route past the hills which skirted the lake, until we reached an extensive plain some seven miles in breadth, commencing at the base of a chain of enormous mountains, and terminating only with the horizon.  We were stopped by encountering two paths--one leading to the right over the mountains, the other branching off across the plain; and we felt greatly perplexed which to choose.  Whilst we were discussing the matter, we beheld a Californian galloping towards us at full speed.  This was an unexpected resource in our dilemma; and we all hailed the stranger's approach with satisfaction, save that Monsieur Frederic became very fidgety, and began looking about for some hiding-place for his horses.  But there was no spot convenient for his purpose; so, making a virtue of necessity, he faced the new comer with a bold countenance.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>This individual, having saluted us in Spanish, fixed his eyes upon Frederic's horses, and asked where he had procured them.  The reply was to the effect that they had been purchased by him at Monterey.  The Spaniard, however, claimed them at once, asserting that he had left them behind on the road, whilst he pushed forward to his <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;;</HI>
120.sgm: and, in proof of his assertion, proceeded to compare the brand on the animals with that of the horse he bestrode.  As it happened, one of them was not branded; but, as there appeared to be no question as to the identity of the mark on the other--a fine beast, though extremely sore-backed--we thought it prudent as well as honest to give it up; which we accordingly did, notwithstanding our regret at losing so valuable an auxiliary.  We ascertained that our road lay across the mountains, and parted from the <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;ro</HI>
120.sgm:<P>The Spaniard had not been gone more than half-an-hour, when my horse became restive, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:in consequence of his being laden with two extra muskets, which galled his sides as he walked.  Parker, a tall, raw-boned Yankee, was unable to hold him, and ere I could come to his assistance, the animal had broken away from him, and set off, galloping across the plain, soon dashing the two pack-saddles with which he was laden to the ground, together with the muskets, the original cause of the mischief.  We set off in pursuit, but were soon compelled to relinquish the chase, and to attend to a more important matter, namely, the picking up our stock of provisions, which lay scattered about all over the plain, in the horse's track, and the several articles which had been shaken out of the packs.  Whilst we were thus occupied, Halliday continued the hunt after my horse; until, night setting in, we lighted a fire, and sat down around it, awaiting his return.  We found that one of the packsaddles was smashed to pieces; that only about a third of our stock of biscuit had been recovered; that our flour-bag had burst, and was half emptied of its precious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Halliday returned to our encampment, or rather explored his way to it, guided by the light of our fire.  He brought news of my horse, to the effect that it would probably be found at a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm: in the vicinity, belonging to one Don Jose&acute;.  It appeared that, after a long and fruitless chase, he lost sight of the animal on the opposite side of the plain, and, looking about him, perceived a road which led him to a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:.  He made inquiry here, without at first procuring any information; until, having minutely described the lost beast, the <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;ro</HI>
120.sgm: remembered that a neighbour of his, Don Jose&acute;, who lived at a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm: a few miles further on, had sold such a horse some time ago, and he doubted not but, finding itself near its former home, it had gone back to it.  The polite <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;ro</HI>
120.sgm: advised Halliday to return to our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We were now compelled to remove our quarters, in consequence of the scarcity of wood; and, acting upon the suggestions of Monsieur Frederic, who seemed never at a loss, established ourselves on a part of the plain most frequented by the herds of wild cattle, whose dried manure supplied us with tolerable fuel, though it kept the watches busily employed collecting it, as it soon burnt out.</P>
120.sgm:<P>At about ten o'clock next morning a boy came up to us, leading my horse, which, as the <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;ro</HI>
120.sgm: conjectured, had found its way back to its former master, Don Jose.  We gave the lad some powder and a few percussion-caps, with which he was highly delighted, and were preparing for a fresh start, when we bethought ourselves that it would be as well to go to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;ro</HI>
120.sgm: whom Halliday had first seen, and inquire our way, he having forgotten to do so on the previous evening.  Accordingly, we set off across the plain, and were directed to make for Don Jose&acute;'s <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;,</HI>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>An unpleasant intrusion--Indian horse-stealers--Cayotes--The road lost sight of--Our dilemma--Unexpected resource--Monsieur Frederic's canvass-bag--The ascent of the mountains--In luck's way--The right road at last--Symptoms of hasty travelling--Pueblos de San Jose&acute;--A resolution.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Our march next day proved a long one, although we made little progress in advance, as our route was circuitous, and finally obstructed by an immense lagoon, overgrown with toolies, or bulrushes, and along the borders of which we were compelled to proceed up to our knees in mud and water, and sometimes even higher.  We came to the end of the marsh at last, but found ourselves so fatigued that further advance was impossible; we therefore selected a fitting spot, and made the usual preparations for passing the night there.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Although excessively wearied, I was unable to compose myself to sleep, and lay half-sleeping, half-waking, watching the glimmer of the fire.  Suddenly--about half-past one--I heard a low sound amongst the bushes, as a little distance off; and, listening more attentively, at last plainly distinguished foot-steps.  We had adopted the precaution of sleeping a short distance from the fire; so that our movements were not easily discernible.  I crept stealthily towards Halliday, having first grasped my pistols, which I always kept ready for use under my head, and with some difficulty succeeded in arousing him, desiring him to keep perfectly quiet, but on the alert.  We were in such a position, at this time, as to command a view of our horses and property, which had been left under the care of a sentinel, Drew, who had fallen fast asleep, his head resting on one of the animals which had stretched itself on the ground by his side.  We watched a few minutes, and then beheld two Indians stalk cautiously out from amongst the bushes, and advance towards our fire, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>But our troubles were not over, for several times we were obliged to get up and run after our horses, which, being tied up to the low bushes by leathern ropes, were set free by the <HI REND="italics">cayotes</HI>
120.sgm: --a species of animal something between a fox and a dog--that devour leather with avidity, and are ever on the watch to procure it.  We lost several of these ropes, which are frequently converted into temporary bridles by passing them from the neck around the nose in an ingenious manner, completely obviating the use of head-stalls or bit.  They are often of the handsomest description, and chiefly made of leather, which the <HI REND="italics">cayotes</HI>
120.sgm: nibble away in a very short time, ten minutes at most sufficing for them to entirely demolish the most solid of them.  It may readily be imagined, therefore, that, between watching for <HI REND="italics">cayotes</HI>
120.sgm:<P>On reaching the base of the mountains I have already alluded to, we were exceedingly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:perplexed, for here we lost all traces of the road.  The wild oats grew in abundance, and proved a serious obstacle to our progress, for not only did they effectually obliterate all indications of the roads that passed through them, but they caught our horses' legs, and severely annoyed them.  Once we believed we had hit upon the right track; but, after pursuing it for some distance, we came to a second exactly like it, and did not until then discover that they were formed by wild deer.  To increase the discomfort of our position, our three indolent companions expressed their determination to follow one of these narrow paths which wound round the side of the declivity, whilst we were of opinion that our better plan would be to prosecute our journey across the mountains, trusting to our knowledge of the direction of the mines, which we knew lay on the other side of the range.  As we could not prevail upon them to accompany us, and it chanced that our horses and provisions were equally divided, we separated, each party continuing the road selected by the leader.  Our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Wearily, too, did we mount the rugged slopes of those mountains, under a broiling sun, to which we were fully exposed, panting for water, and anxiously seeking for it, and for a few trees under which we might procure an hour's shelter and rest.  But summit arose above summit in interminable succession, each appearing impassable, and, in our uncertainty as to our being in the right direction, offering additional obstacles to surmount, without the charm of hope to encourage us to persevere.  Our poor horses likewise suffered intensely, and we were in constant fear of their falling down from sheer exhaustion.  At length we attained the summit of another acclivity, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<illus entity="a120-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE ROAD TO THE MINES.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>As we lay conversing upon the one absorbing topic, namely, the uncertainty of our being in the proper track, the Frenchman, who had been fumbling in his canvass-bag, drew out of it a pocket-compass, and asked me if it would serve us as a guide.  This was indeed a resource; and, remembering the bearings of the mines to be N.N.W., we experienced little difficulty in ascertaining that we were journeying almost in a direct line towards them, although perhaps somewhat out of the regular track, as we had not yet come up with any signs of a beaten road.  This discovery imparted fresh life to the party; and we set off again in capital spirits, notwithstanding we suffered so much from thirst.</P>
120.sgm:<P>A couple of hours' march up the sides of the mountains brought us to the summit of the loftiest, when the scene before us suddenly changed from a country bare of wood, to one where the oak, pine, and beech <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We emerged upon a dangerous steep, the descent of which was extremely painful and difficult; the path--if it could be so called--being blocked up by large pieces of rock, stones, and pebbles.  On each side of us were deep ravines, into which we would gladly have plunged for water, had there been any in them.  But it was in vain that we peered into their depths in search of it; their beds were dry, although evidently the course of rapid torrents during the rainy season.  As we proceeded, the country once more resumed its barren aspect, save that in the distance we could perceive high table-lands, apparently clothed with verdure, and stretching away on our right; whilst to our left, and beneath us, a gloomy plain undulated, on which not a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>As the evening drew near, it became intensely cold, as is usual in this region, and the sudden change was far from pleasant, for it augmented our bodily discomforts.  We sought for a convenient halting-place, as further progress was becoming impossible, and fixed upon a spot of ground near which we had observed a dark circle that led us to hope for water.  Nor were we disappointed; for, notwithstanding it turned out to be a mere puddle, about ten feet wide and six inches deep, we were but too glad to slake our thirst at it, and to return thanks for this providential discovery.  As for our poor horses, they were in a pitiable condition; and unless we had chanced to meet with this pool, we must have been under the necessity of abandoning them, as they must inevitably have dropped dead of thirst.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Another agreeable surprise awaited us at this spot, namely, the appearance of a herd of wild cattle, one of which Devin shot; so that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:we managed to get up a tolerably handsome feast off fresh beef, and to put some by for the morrow's store.  A cheerful supper wound up our day's perplexities and troubles, and, the watch being set, we lay down to sleep.  We had not been long reposing, ere we were awakened by a most terrific noise, which at first we had some difficulty in making out; but Monsieur Frederic soon set us at ease, by informing us that it proceeded from the wolves and prairie-dogs engaged in devouring the carcass of the cow we had killed, and the remains of which had been left on the spot where she was skinned.  This was true enough; for in the morning we found nothing left of her save the bare skeleton, and a drove of hungry <HI REND="italics">cayotes</HI>
120.sgm:<P>We felt greatly refreshed by our night's rest; and proceeded to replenish our canteens and bottles at the puddle, previously to setting out again.  Our horses, too, appeared all the better, and we renewed our march, directing our steps by the compass.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We had advanced several miles, when we perceived, on our right, but considerably out of our line of march, what we at once recognised as a waggon-track, and hurrying on, were not a little gratified to find that our surmises were correct, and that our compass had proved a true guide.  We now regarded our difficulties as being at an end, especially when we observed a moving speck far a-head of us, which we could distinguish to be a team of oxen, advancing in the direction towards which we were ourselves journeying.  A few miles further, and our conjectures were set entirely at rest; for we emerged upon a wide, level, and well-beaten road, bestrewn with fragments of carts, broken wheels, and other similar evidences of traffic, indicating the recent passage of a party bound for the mines.</P>
120.sgm:<P>That night we had plenty of good water, abundance of beef, a surplus of grass for our horses, good fuel, and a delightful resting-place, perfectly sheltered, and where we slept soundly.  And thus we marched onwards, encountering every day additional evidences <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We were now close to Pueblo de San Jose&acute;; and, as I had by this time amply tested by experience the relative merits of my companions, I called Monsieur Frederic and Halliday aside, and informed them of my intention to separate from our three indolent comrades, whom we might leave behind at Pueblo, where they would have an excellent chance of either joining some other party, or where, if they preferred so doing, they might remain.  We had done our duty by them, I considered, in bringing them from Monterey, after the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>Arrival at Pueblo de San Jose&acute;--Meeting with Volunteer officers--Sudden fortunes--An old friend under a new face--Description of Pueblo--A Yankee mill and miller--"Not to be done"--Bickerings--Break-up of the party--Continuation of the journey with one companion.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We arrived in sight of Pueblo de San Jose&acute; in the course of a few days; and although the distance from Monterey is only about ninety miles, yet it appeared to us much greater, from the difficult and painful nature of the route.  To the left of the town runs a stream of water, about ten feet wide, which continues parallel with the road upon which we now stood.  On its banks we perceived a <HI REND="italics">cavallard</HI>
120.sgm: of horses, a few of which appeared in good condition, but the rest were miserable, worn-out hacks.  Close to it stood a couple of tents, and, approaching them, we found that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>It appeared that they were all resting here with their horses, in order to make a bold and continuous push for the mines.  They had an immense advantage in possessing so many horses, for, when those they rode got tired, they could mount others, and thus proceed without delay.  They had already travelled several hundred miles, and had been obliged to halt here, from utter inability to proceed further without a few days' rest.  The place was well wooded, and had an abundance of grass and water, so that we soon formed an encampment.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Our stock of flour having run short, we sent one of our party into the town, for the purpose of purchasing some.  He soon returned with the information that the miller had none ready, there being an unusual demand for the article, and that we should have to wait until morning for it.  Parker being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>In this store, to our great surprise, we found one of our old comrades of the volunteers rigged out in the sprucest manner, and looking more like a New York dandy than a shopman.  He was receiving wages at the rate of one hundred dollars a month, no small improvement on his former condition.  It seems that on the disbanding of the regiment he had purchased a mule and a supply of <HI REND="italics">serapas</HI>
120.sgm:, and with this stock in trade had made the best of his way to Pueblo.  I know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Pueblo is a good-sized town, and contains about 4,000 inhabitants.  It has all the evidence of being a thriving and progressive place, differing in this respect from all the other towns that I had hitherto seen in California.  The buildings were constructed as much in the Yankee as in the Spanish style, a number of Mormons having come here at an early period, and built several hundred neat wooden houses and cottages, which formed a picturesque contrast to the heavy old <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm: residences of the native inhabitants.  This town is destined to become a place of very great importance.  Being situated on the direct route to the gold mines, a trade had already <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:sprung up that promised to enrich all who could procure merchandize.  Two or three American boarding-houses had already been established, the proprietors of which were making money fast, the rate of payment exacted by them being extravagantly high; and the stores in which articles of wearing apparel were sold were continually filled with customers, the people here dressing more showily even than in Monterey.  One of the points upon which male vanity piques itself here, is the wearing of the gaudiest-coloured linings in the <HI REND="italics">calcineros</HI>
120.sgm:<P>The Mexican laws were still maintained here as in Monterey; but the Alcalde was American, and matters seemed tolerably well regulated.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Pueblo is decidedly one of the prettiest towns in California, and, as regards both climate and cheerfulness of aspect, superior to any that I had as yet seen.  Unlike all the others, it is situated upon level ground, and is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>In the morning, when we went to look after the flour, I was not a little surprised to find a Yankee mill, a Yankee miller, and a Yankee yoke of oxen, the latter having been brought across the mountains from the States.  The miller, a tall, good-natured looking fellow, sold us the flour we required at a very reasonable price, and informed us, in answer to our inquiries, that his employer was making a rapid fortune, as there was a great demand for flour, and he had the best mill in the country.  A saw-mill had also been recently erected in the neighbourhood, but, owing to a scarcity of water, or a negligence on the part of its proprietor, its operations had ceased, and all building was for the present suspended for want of boards and scantling.</P>
120.sgm:<P>As Parker and I were returning to camp, we stopped for a few moments at the officers' tent, just to say good evening.  Here we found their Spanish friend, who seemed greatly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:taken with my pistols, and who, as if to enhance the value of them in my estimation, proposed to exchange one of his best horses for them.  But in this, as in a previous instance, I positively refused to part with them, and we returned towards our camp.  Next morning Halliday, who had been looking after the horses, came in with the news that the Spaniard had said to him, that he would be willing to double the price he had offered.  Now, I was greatly attached to these weapons, and had intended carrying them back with me to the States, as a <HI REND="italics">souvenir</HI>
120.sgm: of my campaigns, but it seemed as if fate was determined that I should not gratify so simple a desire.  Every man I met seemed to eye them with envy, and to consider by what means he could transfer them from my possession to his.  I therefore thought it useless to resist much longer, and accordingly went with Halliday to the Spaniard's <HI REND="italics">cavallard</HI>
120.sgm:.  The latter offered me a couple of horses for them, but, although good ones, they were very thin and had evidently been ridden very hard.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Our encampment was picturesquely enough situated beneath the spreading arms of a huge tree, and shut in on every side by masses of foliage, which hid the town and the road from our sight.  Monsieur Frederic and I occupied ourselves in chopping wood with our axes, and Halliday looked after the horses.  Drew and Devin were entrusted with the alimentation of the fire, and the preparation of the coffee.  On our return, we found these interesting youths stretched on the turf, apparently unconscious that they had any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"What a humbug you are," said Mr. Drew, "to be amusing yourself strolling about, when you ought to be grinding the coffee!  At this rate, we shan't have supper till nine."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Halliday always sneaks away when there is anything to be done," quoth Mr. Devin.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"You are unjust," replied Halliday, indignantly; "I am always to contribute to the comfort of the party.  I was the last to grind the coffee, and the last but one to make the fire.  Besides, I have been looking after the horses."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Now, boys," said I, thinking this a fitting opportunity for the execution of my project, "I must have my say in this matter.  When we first formed ourselves into a party, I had hoped that the circumstances in which we were placed, and the object which we had in view, would have taught us the necessity of forbearance and mutual reliance; but the jealous and angry feelings that have marked our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>After some discussion, in which a good deal of unpleasant feeling was exhibited, the suggestion was ultimately agreed to, and we broke up into two parties, the one consisting of Drew, Devin, and Parker, and the other, of Halliday, Frederic, and myself.</P>
120.sgm:<P>It now remained to be seen which of us would get to the mines first; and in order to lose no time, I and my two companions started at an early hour on the following morning, leaving our quondam friends in the enjoyment of their slumbers.  My horse being large and strong was packed with the provisions; the two spare animals, Frederic's lame horse which had long since worn off its leather shoe, and the broken-down Rosinante formerly ridden by Devin, being too completely "used up" to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Monsieur Frederic now observed that he feared we should never get on to the mines under the circumstances; that he had a friend living at a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
120.sgm: in the neighbourhood, and that he thought it advisable to go to him and recruit both himself and his horses.  I replied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I was now left with only one companion, and that close to that stage of the route where travellers begin to anticipate the greatest difficulties, for here they pass the last regular town to be met on the way northward.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>A faint heart--Second thoughts--Mission of San Jose&acute;--Effects of Mexican apathy--"Ugly customers"--The road again--A comfortless prospect--Meeting with Governor Mason--Indian villages--An extinguisher upon sentiment--Arrival at Livermore's farm--Effects of a bad reputation--Road-side adventure--The San Joachin Valley--Junction with a Monterey convoy.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The road now branched off into two different directions, the one leading to San Francisco, and the other to the mines.  We turned our backs upon the former; when, after proceeding some little distance, my companion, who had been riding for some time in silence, affected no doubt by a sense of isolation and the difficulties that presented themselves to his imagination, suddenly observed to me--</P>
120.sgm:<P>"I don't like the appearance of the road; the country around seems to be getting more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"To become the laughingstock of such of our old comrades as might chance to be thrown in our way.  No, no, Halliday; we must not be so easily diverted from our purpose.  It is a point of honour with me to proceed, until something really does-occur, to justify me to my own conscience for abandoning it.  Besides, I want to show those youths we have left behind that we can get along without them.  Cheer up, and reflect better on it.  It is obviously the more prudent course for us to proceed to the mines.  San Francisco must be at present completely deserted; but, even were it otherwise, I should like to know what employment we could possibly find there?  On the other hand, I have little doubt that we shall not be many days at the mines <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"Perhaps you are right," replied Halliday gloomily; "but, I must own, our prospects are anything but cheering."</P>
120.sgm:<P>The scene was certainly but ill calculated to sustain one's spirits.  We were now in the midst of a large plain, scantily covered with vegetation, and unprotected by any sort of foliage.  A cold and piercing wind swept over it from time to time, betokening the near approach of winter.  We had not proceeded above a mile after the above conversation, when the sore-backed horse fell with the pack, and it was with the greatest difficulty that we could get him on his legs again.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"You see," said my companion, fortified in his forebodings by this little incident, "how impossible it is for us to proceed further on this route; neither our horses nor ourselves can stand it.  Let us turn back, and proceed to San Francisco."</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"Be it so," was my reply; "you know that I cannot travel alone, so that I must make up my mind to take whichever direction pleases you."</P>
120.sgm:<P>We accordingly turned back, but had not proceeded many steps, when my vacillating companion, rendered still more doubtful of the prudence of his suggestion by the easiness of his victory over me, suddenly stopped short and exclaimed--</P>
120.sgm:<P>"You must think me very weak-minded, but, after all, I cannot help coming round to your opinion.  Let us go to the mines.  It is worth the risk."</P>
120.sgm:<P>Towards the mines then our horses' heads were again turned.  Our pack had been thoroughly arranged, so as to give the poor animal that bore it as little pain as possible.  He got along better than we had expected, but we were every now and then obliged to lash him from behind with our whips, to keep him alive.  As we proceeded, the numbers of dead horses and mules that we found scattered about on the route had quite a depressing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Towards evening, we came in sight of the mission of San Jose&acute;, which is situated upon some hills overlooking an immense plain, dotted here and there with cattle.  Viewed at a distance from the road, it appeared in excellent repair, and the large out-offices, with their tile roofs, contrasted prettily with the high trees that rose above the long <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm: wall that seemed to form the enclosure of the establishment.  Turning, however, to our right, we found that we had only seen one end of the mission, and that this wall did not stretch across the front.  To our surprise, everything connected with the establishment seemed to be in a state of the most deplorable decay.  The <HI REND="italics">corps de logis</HI>
120.sgm: contained a suite of spacious and lofty rooms, with a large piazza in front.  The fac&cedil;ade itself had once been white-washed, but the dark tint of the <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm: had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:gradually pierced through the lime, giving the walls a sober hue, which added greatly to the ancient and venerable appearance of the building.  A little further on, on the road, and adjoining this part of the mission, stood the remains of an immense number of small rooms, very regularly laid out, which were formerly occupied by the Indians connected with it.  Very few of these apartments have any covering, the materials of which the roof was composed having been long since torn away for other purposes.  On the opposite side of the road are several comfortable <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
120.sgm: houses, and adjoining them we discovered a basin about ten feet square, and plastered with cement on the inside, which had been supplied by artificial means with water from a hot spring in the neighbourhood, and must have formed a most luxurious bath for the use of the priests.  On entering the interior of the mission, we found an immense courtyard, surrounded with sufficient stabling for the accommodation of several hundred horses.  The church is about forty feet long by thirty wide, and of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The population of the mission consists of about three hundred persons, the majority of whom are Indians, and no small proportion Americans, all of whom are evidently of the most depraved and abandoned habits.  From the specimen which I saw of them standing half drunk at the entrance of a grog-store into which part of the buildings had been converted, I took care to look at the priming of my pistols, and to keep a close watch on our horses.  The Indians are almost black, and have the usual characteristics of long, neglected hair flowing in tangled locks about their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We had no money with us of any consequence; but our horses, saddles, arms, and a few other articles in our possession, were sufficient temptations for an attack upon us, every kind of property having risen enormously in value, in consequence of the immense influx of foreigners that had taken place since the discovery of the gold mines.  Horses that could formerly have been purchased for three or four dollars now readily brought from one hundred and fifty to two hundred, and weapons of defence could with difficulty be procured for money.  As to blankets and <HI REND="italics">serapas</HI>
120.sgm:, which served the double purpose of beds by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>With the knowledge of these facts, and an <HI REND="italics">entourage</HI>
120.sgm:<P>On arriving at a sort of hollow, filled with water, which lay opposite a narrow and fertile valley, shut in by a couple of hills, we dismounted, and prepared to encamp, there being plenty of grass for our horses, who could roam about without being picketed.  On glancing at one of the most abrupt and loftiest of the precipices by which we were surrounded, I observed some cows browsing, at an immense height, on the sides of a declivity so steep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<illus entity="a120-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE ROAD TO THE MINES--ENCAMPING FOR THE NIGHT.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Our encampment this evening was cold and cheerless, the wind blowing a perfect hurricane.  Sweeping along the road for some distance, it became obstructed by the hills in front of us, and, winding round the valley, spent itself on our devoted heads.  Having vainly sought about for wood, we were compelled to make the best fire we could, of dried manure.  We then pounded our coffee, and a good warm cup of this refreshing beverage restored us to some little sense of comfort.  We had just finished arranging our blankets and muskets, on a gentle descent near our fire, when we observed a small party moving along the road.  It was composed of three persons, two riding in advance, and the third driving a mule and small cart, of Yankee construction.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"It is Governor Mason, as I live!" exclaimed Halliday, jumping to his feet.  "I must go and speak to him.  He is on his return from the mines, and may bring us some news."</P>
120.sgm:<P>I was too much fatigued to accompany my comrade, but nevertheless awaited his return with interest.  He only remained absent a few minutes.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"It was the Colonel, sure enough," said he.  "I asked him how matters were going on at the mines, and he told me that, although there were a great many privations and hardships to endure, an industrious fellow, in the possession of good health, could make plenty of money by digging.  To my inquiries whether, in case he should not succeed at this work, he had a chance of obtaining any other sort of employment, his answer was equally encouraging."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Well, I hope you are at last satisfied," I rejoined.  "I told you all that before; but it seems nothing but the assurances of the Governor himself can bring conviction home to your mind.  I hope that this is the last time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>My companion, somewhat piqued at my remark, laid himself sulkily down on his blanket, and soon fell asleep.</P>
120.sgm:<P>As Colonel Mason's name has been mentioned, I may be permitted to introduce here a slight sketch of a man whose position has brought him into notoriety, and rendered him an authority but too frequently quoted on the extent and nature of the resources of the country placed under his jurisdiction.</P>
120.sgm:<P>In person the Colonel is tall, with very coarse features, light hair, and rough and unpolished manners.  He is one of those men who mistake rudeness for decision, and who look upon the courtesies and amenities of life as incompatible with the character of a soldier.  I believe that he has many good qualities, amongst which is a love of order and justice; but the very nature of his profession seems to have contracted his views, and rendered them by far too despotic and unconciliatory for the difficult position in which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>A new country has as much need as an old one of able and high principled men in the executive department; and, had those who first exerted American influence on this peninsula combined the requisite qualifications, an immense amount of injustice would have been prevented, and a course of policy avoided which has tended greatly to lower the character of the home Government.  In fact, so sick were the inhabitants of the country at this period of military rule, that almost every spark of patriotism and attachment to the flag of the United States had been extinguished in the breasts of the settlers.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>During the night, the hills resounded with the shouts of drunken Indians, and we deemed it prudent to keep watch alternately over the horses.  Proceeding on our journey next morning, we soon came in sight of an Indian village, the houses of which were of a conical form, and constructed of mud and dead foliage.  The entrance consisted of a low hole near the foundation, through which the inmates are obliged to creep.  These huts bore a close resemblance to beehives; so closely packed were they with swarms of half-naked Indians, who seemed to have scarcely room to turn in them.  There being little here to invite the attention of the traveller, we passed on, and soon came to a larger village, built in somewhat a different style, and having a much more picturesque character.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The houses were, for the most part, constructed of wood in its unplaned state, and, in some instances, still covered with the bark.  Few of these habitations reached a greater elevation than the height of an ordinary man, and the entrances were, as usual, mere holes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:Forming a pretty background to this little group, stood a cluster of stately pines and palm-trees; while in front lay a gently undulating and fertile plain, dotted with cattle, and surrounded with charming hills, richly clothed with vegetation.  I was so enchanted with the romantic beauty of the spot, that I could not refrain from giving expression to my feelings; but Halliday, who was of that dull and unimaginative mould so simply but naturally described by Wordsworth-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Nature ne'er could find the way<LB>Into the heart of Peter Bell;<LB>In vain, through every changeful year,<LB>Did Nature lead him as before;<LB>A primrose by a river's brim<LB>A yellow primrose was to him,<LB>And it was <HI REND="italics">nothing more</HI>
120.sgm: "--<LB></HI>
120.sgm:<P>killed all my enthusiasm by the remark, that "it was very pretty, but that a good beefsteak, smothered in onions, would add immensely to the effect."  These Indians were, however, miserably poor; and all we could obtain from them was a little <HI REND="italics">pinoli</HI>
120.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The next stage to Livermore's farm was exceedingly tedious.  We were lucky enough, however, to reach it before night; and we encamped within a mile of the house, close to the wooden fence which encloses the ground where the horses are allowed to run.  The owner of this farm had settled early in the country, and had obtained possession of immense tracts of land, which, however, as far as I could judge, at this season of the year, were more remarkable for quantity than quality.  Obtaining permission to picket our horses inside the fence, we set to work to collect as much grass and straw as possible for them.  This, however, proved to be anything but an easy task, and our poor animals made but a sorry meal of it.  We fared better, my companion having succeeded in purchasing some beef at the house.  He had some difficulty, at first, in obtaining it, owing, as he presumed, to the annoyances to which the family were subjected by the visits of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Whilst we were at supper, a couple of horsemen rode up to us, whose appearance, on a more isolated part of the road, would have been calculated to greatly disquiet us.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:They were armed <HI REND="italics">cap-a&grave;-pie</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"Good night, strangers," said the foremost, pulling up his horse.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Good night," returned I, without appearing to divert my attention from the agreeable masticatory process in which I was engaged.  I had already taken the measure of these worthies long before they came up, and wished to avoid letting them see with how much apprehension their appearance had inspired us.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"How far is it to Bob Livermore's farm?"</P>
120.sgm:<P>"About a mile."</P>
120.sgm:<P>They were turning their horses' heads to our great contentment, when the spokesman said:--</P>
120.sgm:<P>"You're goin' to the mines, I guess?"</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Yes," said I, "we are bound for the Stanislaus mine."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Have <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"Well, I <HI REND="italics">ray</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"What luck had you?"</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Darned little; we mad jist enough to pay our way along the road."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"What chance do you think we'll have?"</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Well, I guess you'll have chances enough, but darned few sartainties.  Unless you keep your eyes skinned, and sleep without winking, they'll steal the very nose off your face."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"How are they off for provender for the horses?"</P>
120.sgm:<P>"There ain't a blade of grass in the whole darned country.  If it warn't that this here tarnal critter of mine managed to live upon acorns and rotten stone, I guess as how he'd a been a gonner some weeks ago.  But don't let this scar ye, strangers, for there's mountains of goold if you can only get at it.  Good night, my trumps; I wish you luck."</P>
120.sgm:<P>With these agreeable assurances, which seemed to produce their due effect upon Halliday, the spokesman rode off and rejoined his companion.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Travelling rapidly next day, we arrived <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:towards evening at a good encampment, where there was plenty of wood and water; and, on the following day, we found ourselves in the San Joachin valley.  We had proceeded a considerable distance on the plain, when we perceived several waggons in advance.  They appeared to belong to a numerous party, and were accompanied by a large <HI REND="italics">cavallard</HI>
120.sgm:.  They were going at an easy, steady pace, and we entertained hopes of being able soon to overtake them.  My companions' eyes beamed with joy at this agreeable sight, for he only desired an opportunity of putting his talents and effrontery to account, in order to render our mode of travelling more easy and comfortable.  Pushing on before me, he came up with the party; and, when I overtook them near a small lake surrounded with bulrushes, I found him paying compliments to a dry-looking little Spaniard, who held a couple of dead geese, that he had just killed, slung on the barrel of a fowling-piece which he had on his shoulder.  The place being favourable for an encampment, we were glad enough to halt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Halliday was not long before he had made himself acquainted with the names and circumstances of all the party.  The little sportsman, into whose good graces he had wormed himself, was Don Emanuel, of Monterey, a gentleman of property, who was now on a trading expedition to the mines, and having with him a large stock of dried beef, flour, biscuit, sugar, coffee, &amp;c., besides troops of cows and horses.  Outside the waggons that contained the former articles, and which were packed to the very top, might be seen tied to the poles crow-bars, picks, wash-bowls of wood and tin, and other implements used in mining.  These waggons were accompanied and guarded by four or five Californians, and the same number of Indians; the latter, of course, being employed for the more laborious kinds of work.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We were no less surprised than pleased at finding amongst the party several of our old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:acquaintances from Lower California, one of them, Sen&tilde;or Edouard D--, being the father of a dark-eyed <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;orita</HI>
120.sgm:, who had left some tender <HI REND="italics">souvenirs</HI>
120.sgm: in my unsentimental friend Halliday's heart.  Whether it was the memory of these love-passages, or the savoury odour of the wild geese that had been killed on the lake, that attracted the latter from our evening meal, I cannot take upon myself to say; but certain it was, that he left me to munch in solitude my supper of tough biscuit; for I was too much fatigued to cook anything more elaborate.  I was resolved, however, to make up a good fire, and accordingly went over to the larger encampment to borrow an axe for the purpose of chopping some wood.  I had scarcely, however, set foot within its precincts when I was seized by the leg by one of those huge dogs that generally accompany every party of the natives; and, on crying out for assistance, I was set upon by a number of others, whom I found it difficult enough to keep off, until some of the Spaniards came to my assistance.  These dogs, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>The San Joachin--The ford--Exorbitant ferryage--Halliday's ingenious contrivance for crossing--A prairie on fire--The Stanislaus river--Almost lost again--Indian Salmon-fishery--A return party--Tobacco at a premium--The Stanislaus mine.</P>
120.sgm:<P>We now continued our journey with the party of Don Emanuel; a great convenience to us, as, through his kindness, we were enabled to place our horses, with his, under the care of the Indians, who kept a vigilant watch over them at each successive encampment.  Our party, however, did not trespass so far upon the Don's as to be confounded with it.  We kept so far distinct from it as to build a separate fire and perform our culinary operations for ourselves; but if we wanted an axe, a pan, or a log of wood, our friend's party proved a never-failing resource on such an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The next day we reached the banks of the San Joachin river, into which those tributary streams discharge themselves, that divide the various "diggins" or portions of the country where gold is found in the greatest abundance.</P>
120.sgm:<P>On our right and left we beheld stretching out as far as we could see plains covered with the richest and tallest grass; and it appeared to me, at the time, that this locality, being about the most fertile in California, was the best adapted for settlement; but I have since been informed, that fever and ague prevail <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>I could not contemplate without interest the passage across the stream which so many thousands had already hazarded in their eager pursuit after gold.  It was denoted by a small house constructed of toolies or bulrushes, which stood within a few yards of the water, and was just large enough to serve for the residence of the two Yankees who had established themselves here on speculation.  There was only one boat on the river, and that one too small to transport more than five men in safety across to the opposite bank, and quite insufficient for us.  If we could have succeeded in coming to terms with the ferryman, we should not perhaps have thought of any other means of traversing the stream, but contrived to accommodate ourselves to the circumstances.  The charge, however, for the passage of each person, was one dollar; too high for our scanty means.  Don Emanuel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The Indians of the party were despatched to hunt up the banks of the river for toolies.  Of these, they collected as many as were necessary for the purpose, conveying them to the bar of the stream, where we all set to work to tie them up in large bundles of equal size, in as compact a form and as tightly as possible.  Some five or six of these bundles being prepared, they were strongly bound together, side by side, by means of a few long pieces of raw hide, so that they assumed the form of a boat or raft.  These were next launched upon the water, and some of the planks, taken out of the waggons, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Those who had horses prepared to ford the stream at the point or bar selected by the Indians as the safest for the mules and cattle.  I may state that, even at this point and at low water, the San Joachin is extremely dangerous; and that, when it is at the shallowest--as it was at this time--a false step may precipitate the traveller and his steed into deep and rapid water, leaving him no resource save that of swimming for his life.</P>
120.sgm:<P>I lent Halliday my horse, which stood a span or two higher than his own, and he proceeded to ride across, but had scarcely got half way over, having kept pretty well on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:bar, when the animal sank into the water, and he was compelled to return.  I contented myself with being less adventurous, and humbly followed close in the track of the mules and the Indians, getting over in perfect safety and not much wetted; although my horse shivered exceedingly, the cold being so severe.  Halliday came over the same way, and there remained but the waggons and the cattle.  The former were drawn along the bar with extreme difficulty, and the latter also gave much trouble, notwithstanding the assistance of the most experienced horsemen of the party.  Some of them, having got partly over, turned tail and scampered back; others persisted in floating down the stream; some remained stationary, shivering in the water, and all were averse to encounter the cold; nor did we succeed in getting them across at last, but at a great expense of time and labour.  As it was, one of the cows got into deep water, and was drowned, the carcase floating down until its further descent was happily arrested by a projecting portion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The San Joachin is a beautiful stream, extremely rapid, and, at times, rising to an extraordinary height, although its waters were now shallow.  Its breadth averages fifty feet, and its banks are overshadowed with stately trees and a variety of plants and shrubs; the river itself abounding with fish, particularly a kind of salmon, on which, in many places, the natives almost entirely subsist.</P>
120.sgm:<P>On the side where we now were the bush and brushwood grew luxuriantly; and in several secluded and shady spots we discovered a great many Indians, half clad, half starved, and very dirty, stretched upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We started off again early next morning, and, in the course of that day's march, came upon a large prairie fire, which burned with extraordinary rapidity and fierceness, menacing soon to stop our progress.  Fortunately, our road was quite bare of grass; and, owing to this circumstance, the flames could not spread across it.</P>
120.sgm:<P>This was the first time I had ever witnessed such a spectacle, and certainly it was wonderfully grand and appalling.  The flames devoured every blade of grass in their way, roaring, and crackling, and leaping from side to side according to the varying direction of every fitful gust that blew, the smoke ascending in dense volumes, and forming quite a cloud above the scene of the terrific devastation.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Fires of this kind, amongst the long grass and wild oats, are not unfrequent in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<illus entity="a120-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE ROAD TO THE MINES--BURNING TREES FOR A CAMP-FIRE.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>We passed the fire, and soon reached the Stanislaus river, which takes its rise near the Californian range of mountains, and discharges itself into the San Joachin, than which it is not less beautifully wooded, nor its banks less picturesque.  We were on its north side, and anxiously looked about us for some means of conveying ourselves, our waggons, and our cattle across.</P>
120.sgm:<P>This proved no easy matter; and we travelled many wearisome miles, without any regular road, and where the briars and bushes offered innumerable obstructions to the progress of the waggons and mules, adding to the natural difficulties of the ground, which was very uneven, and bestrewed with broken limbs of trees.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Halliday had requested me to take charge of his horse, whilst he assisted Don Emanuel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:along the road.  This I willingly did; and, perceiving shortly afterwards a convenient descent to the brink of the river, where I could afford it and the one I rode an opportunity of slaking their thirst, I led them down and allowed them to drink until they appeared satisfied.  On clambering up the bank of the river again, I found no traces of my companions; but, judging that they would continue along the water-side, I pursued my way for a couple of miles, until I came to a spot where the water was very shallow, offering, through an opening in the banks on both sides, a convenient passage for a waggon.  Here then I paused awhile, then dashed over, and, ascending the opposite path, soon found myself entering on a vast plain, on which there were no signs of my party visible.  Nevertheless, I pursued the indistinct path before me, until it altogether disappeared, when I thought it prudent to retrace my steps to the spot from which I had first started on the opposite side, supposing that my friends might have discovered a yet more convenient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:crossing-place.  I galloped forward along the bank, until I came to the ledge of a precipice overlooking the river, and which seemed to continue for several miles straight onwards; but, as I perceived no track of travellers, nor any sign of another ford, I made up my mind to recross the river for the last time, and, risking consequences, to pursue the track I had discovered.  This I accordingly did, travelling onwards in much perplexity and anxiety of mind, until I fell in with the remains of an encampment, where, several logs were yet burning, and where, had the hour been more advanced, I should certainly have taken up my lodging for the night.  The party must have been a large one, for the ground was well trodden down; but I felt certain it could not be mine, as the embers indicated that the halt had taken place the evening before; still, I rejoiced at the discovery, as it led me to hope I was not far out of the track.  I determined therefore to proceed, but, before doing so, retraced my steps for about half a mile, when I heard a man shouting; and, looking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The mystery was soon solved.  On crossing the river, the Indians and waggons had been sent on, the thick wheels of the latter making no impression upon the hard surface of the road, which sufficiently accounted for my not finding their track: the remainder of the party had turned away in another direction, for the purpose of obtaining fish at a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;rie</HI>
120.sgm:<P>I learned that the Indians manifested the greatest desire to procure flour and bread in exchange for their fish, which they do not hold in much estimation, as it forms the staple of their food.  They were also anxious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>Our road from this halting-place became every day more rugged and dreary.  The further we advanced, the scarcer was the herbage, the oats and grass having been burned up by the Indians; so that the face of the entire country appeared black and gloomy in the extreme.  Water, too, was to be found only at rare intervals, nor did convenient spots <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>One night we suddenly fell in with a large party of Americans and Spaniards, encamped for the night, and who were on their way from the mines.  Amongst them was Doctor Ord, brother to Lieutenant Ord, of the regular army.  He had rendered himself notorious at the "diggins," by his exorbitant charges for medicine and medical advice, by which he had succeeded in realizing an immense sum of money.  The circumstance was freely spoken of, but the doctor's gold rendered him opinion-proof.</P>
120.sgm:<P>In the course of the evening, one of the Americans of the party came to where Halliday and I had built up our fire, and, bidding us a good evening, seated himself on a log of wood <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"I presume," said I, after we had exchanged sundry civilities, "that you have made your fortune at the mines, and are returning home to enjoy it."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Well, now, I guess I can enlighten you a little about them diggins, if you aire going there, young man, as I reckon you aire," replied the stranger; "but I suppose you won't mind doing me a small favour first."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Not at all," I answered; "anything we have you are welcome to.  What is it?"</P>
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120.sgm:<P>"Why, it's just this here.  I want to buy a shillin's worth of tobacco; and if you'll sell it me, or swop for it, I'll be etarnally obliged to you."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"I thought it was something more important and valuable," said I--but here he interrupted me.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"Important and valuable!  Darn it all!  I should like to know what's more important and valuable than a good chaw on a road like this here, when you can't get 'baccy no how.  If you haven't got it, or have, and won't part with it, say so, and I'll go about my business."</P>
120.sgm:<P>"I am sorry," answered I, gravely, for his earnestness amounted almost to warmth, "that I cannot oblige you.  Had I any, you should be welcome to it without payment, but I do not possess a shred."</P>
120.sgm:<P>The Yankee arose from his log, and turned away in silence, with an expression of disappointment on his countenance that I shall not readily forget.  It was manifest that he was suffering extremely for the want of the herb, and if I had only preserved my stock of cigars, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>About half an hour after, another of the party came over to us.  We only required to hear the faint tones of his voice, to conclude that he had been at the point of death.  He readily entered into conversation, and informed us that he had passed the summer at the mines, where the excessive heat during the day, and the dampness of the ground where the gold-washing is performed, together with privation and fatigue, had brought on fever and ague, which nearly proved fatal to him.  He had frequently given an ounce of gold for the visit of a medical man, and on several occasions paid two and even three ounces for a single dose of medicine.  He showed us a pair of thin peg-shoes, nearly worn out, for which he had paid twenty-four dollar.  In fact, he said, the speculators derived more advantage from trading than the miners did from digging, as the produce of a day's toil would often be sacrificed for some simple necessary.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Our journey next day was extremely difficult, owing to the irregularities and obstructions of the road.  The country, too, became gloomy to the last degree, and did not tend to elevate my spirits or those of Halliday.  The hills around us were of rock, slate, gravel, and sand, without a particle of vegetation, and the intervening valleys yawned like so many immense graves, into which we were voluntarily about to plunge.  The cattle toiled desperately, and but for the Indians, who laboured unweariedly also, they would never have got <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>Geographical features of the country--Alta-California--The Great Basin--The Timponogos, Yutah, and Pyramid Lakes--The Emigrant Pass--The California Colorado and Coast Ranges--The San Joachin Valley and River--Geological structure of the different ranges--Original sources of the precious metals--Composition of Californian gold.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Before I conduct my readers to the mines, it becomes necessary for me to lay before them a brief account of the general appearance of the country, as far as relates to its physical, geographical, and geological features.  In doing so, I shall endeavour to avoid entering more deeply into the technicalities of the subject than is consistent with the character of my narrative; for it would be somewhat out of place to introduce here abstruse geological disquisitions as to the origin and formation of the different rocks, many of them involving questions still " <HI REND="italics">sub judice</HI>
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120.sgm:<P>The range of territory comprehended under the general name of California, situated in the western part of North America, on the shores of the Pacific Ocean, and forming till lately the north-western portion of the United States of Mexico, consists of two parts--the narrow peninsula of Old California, divided from the main land by the Gulf of California, and extending from Cape St. Lucas to about 32&deg; N. latitude; and New, or Upper California, ceded to the United States by a recent treaty, comprising the whole country from 32&deg; to 42 1/2&deg; N. latitude, where it borders on the Oregon territory.  Upper California contains about 400,000 square miles, divided into three distinct regions; first, that part lying east of the Colorado river, comprising about three-tenths of the whole; secondly, the portion occupying the centre, lying between the Colorado and the Californian range of mountains, nearly triangular in form, comprising four tenths, or about 160,000 square miles.  The remaining three tenths is that portion to which the attention of the whole world has been directed by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>If we are to form our conclusions from the different statements that have reached us from these sources, it would seem that this section is wholly unfit for the purposes of occupation or settlement, being composed of elevated and barren table-lands, destitute of water, and presenting, by way of vegetation, only the wild sage and squash.  The few ponds of water that are to be met with are in general salt; and even the waters of the Colorado are said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>In regard to the central portion, its general features are those of a semi-desert; its northern portion forming a "Great Basin," the extent of which is now ascertained to be 400 miles from east to west, by 250 miles from north to south; it is bounded on the south by a range of mountains, between the parallels of 37&deg; and 38&deg; N., extending from the Californian to the Wahsatch range.  From this range streams flow north and south; the former lose themselves in the dreary waste, the latter unite with the waters of the Colorado.  The country lying to the south of it is imperfectly known; but it is believed to resemble the southern part of the first section.</P>
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120.sgm:<P>The northern part, or "Great Basin," is elevated some four or five thousand feet above the level of the sea, having a succession of isolated mountain ranges, some of which rise to the height of six or seven thousand feet above the plains, their general outline being sharp and rugged.  The mountains run north and south; the streams which flow within the basin run east and west, emptying into the lakes, or losing themselves in sandy plains.  The small rivulets that have their sources in the mountains, which are capped with snow, afford water and some grass, for the most part of the year, but their running waters rarely extend beyond the alluvial deposits at the bases.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The plains of the Great Basin are represented as appalling and unearthly in their appearance, not only to the traveller, but to all the brute creation, who rarely venture upon them.  Mr. Bryant, who crossed the Great Salt Plain, describes it as having "a snow-like surface, and it is so compact and hard on its eastern border as to show but little impression <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Within the area of this basin lie the Timponogos, or Great Salt and the Yutah Lakes, which stretch off to the east, and on the west are situated the Pyramid, Walker, and Carson Lakes, with a number of smaller ones.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The Great Salt Lake is said to be about 70 miles in length, and 40 to 60 miles in width.  Its surface is dotted with numerous islands, and there are several large bays on its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>The soil along its shores is in places argillaceous, in others sandy and gravelly; where there is soil, grass, canes, rushes, and a variety of small shrubs and flowering plants grow luxuriantly.  On the mountain sides there are a few scrub oaks and stunted cedars, and these are also found on the borders of the small streams which flow from the mountains.  The water of these streams is very pure and cold.  The Bear River and several other considerable streams empty into the Great Salt Lake from the north and east.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Along the eastern bank of the Yutah Lake, and on both sides of the Yutah River, there is much land fit for tillage and pasture.  On a part of this, a settlement was made by the Mormons in 1847.  Mary's River pursues a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Fifty miles westward of the "Sink," and at the base of the Californian range, lies the Pyramid Lake; and here the eye is again refreshed with the sight of trees.  As the mountains are approached, the volcanic appearances increase, the plains are covered with scori&aelig;, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>The ascent of the Californian mountains begins at the Pyramid Lake: reddish and brown sandstone are first met with, then conglomerates, granites, and basalts.  The distance to the summit is sixty-five miles, and the higher ridges are covered with a thick growth of timber, principally conifer&aelig;.  Colonel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>The descent, on the west, is down the Bear Creek, a small tributary of the Feather River; and the Valley of the Sacramento is reached without difficulty, forty miles north of New Helvetia.  The pass is the one generally travelled by emigrants, and should never be attempted after the middle of October.  The sufferings endured by emigrants to California, in 1846, ought to prove a salutary caution to those desirous of taking this route late in the season.  The time requisite to cross the Great Basin and go through the Emigrant Pass, with waggons, is forty-five days, of which thirty-five are required to reach the foot of the mountains, or Pyramid Lake.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The Californian range of mountains extends from the 42nd to the 35th degree of North latitude, running nearly parallel to the coast, at the distance of 130 to 150 miles from it, where they join the coast range, and, under the name of the Cordilleras of California, extend to Cape San Lucas, the extreme point of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>The Colorado range rises gradually from the valley, at first in gentle, undulating hills, becoming more precipitous as they ascend, but still not so much so as to prevent access to the highest points beneath the snow line.  The distance from the valley to the summit is from sixty-five to seventy miles, and the average altitude 8000 feet.  The ascent gives rise to a variety of climates, each producing its flowers and vegetation.</P>
120.sgm:<P>The coast range is a collection of rugged mountains, resembling spurs, their direction being generally parallel to the coast.  In their whole extent, from latitude 42&deg; N. to the Bay of San Francisco, they offer few places of settlement.  They rise to the height of 4000 feet, and, towards their northern termination, where they join the Shasti mountains, reach the snow line.  On the eastern side, this range declines into rolling hills; while on the coast, or western side, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>In both these mountain ranges there are small lakes, lying embosomed in valleys of considerable extent, which afford a plentiful supply of water, and some of the most fertile lands in California are to be found bordering them: the hills throughout the whole range are well timbered, and when trees do not exist, grass and oats grow in great profusion.  The climate in these valleys is moist, and well adapted for cultivation, particularly those parts sheltered from the chilling north-west winds of summer.</P>
120.sgm:<P>Speaking of the intervening space between the Sierra Nevada and the coast range, Colonel Fremont, in his late memoir, addressed to the Congress of the United States, says--</P>
120.sgm:<P>"North and south, this region embraces about 10&deg; of latitude--from the peninsula of California to the Oregon.  From east to west it extends from the Sierra Nevada to the sea; averaging, in the middle parts, 150 miles; in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:the northern parts, 200; giving an area of above 100,000 square miles.  Looking westward, from the summit of the Sierra, the main feature presented is the long, low, broad valley of the Joachin and Sacramento rivers; the two valleys forming, in fact, one which is 500 miles long and 50 broad, lying along the base of the Sierra, and bounded to the west by the low coast range of mountains which separates it from the sea.  Long, dark lines of timber indicate the streams, and bright spots mark the intervening plains.  Lateral ranges, parallel to the Sierra Nevada and the coast, complete the structure of the country, and break it into a surface of valleys and mountains--the valleys a few hundred, and the mountains two to four thousand feet above the sea.  These form greater masses, and become more elevated in the north, where some peaks, as the Shasti, enter the regions of perpetual snow.  Stretched along the mild coast of the Pacific, with a general elevation in its plains and valleys of only a few hundred feet above the level of the sea, and backed by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>"These two valleys of the Sacramento and San Joachin are discriminated only by the names of the rivers which traverse them.  The Valley of the San Joachin is about 300 miles long and 60 broad, between the slopes of the coast mountain and the Sierra Nevada, with a general elevation of only a few hundred feet above the level of the sea.  It presents a variety of soil, from dry and unproductive to well watered and luxuriantly fertile.  The eastern (which is the fertile side of the valley) is intersected with numerous streams, forming large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:and very beautiful bottoms of fertile land, wooded principally with white oaks, in open groves of handsome trees, often five or six feet in diameter, and 60 to 80 feet high.  The larger streams, which are 50 to 150 yards wide, and drain the upper parts of the mountains, pass entirely across the valley, forming the Tule Lakes and the San Jochin River, which, in the rainy season, makes a continuous stream from the head of the valley to the bay.  The foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada which limit the valley make a woodland country, diversified with undulating grounds and pretty valleys, and watered with numerous small streams, which reach only a few miles beyond the hills, the springs which supply them not being copious enough to carry them across the plains.  These afford many advantageous spots for farms, making sometimes large bottoms of rich, moist land.  The rolling surface of the hills presents sunny exposures, sheltered from the winds; and, having a highly favourable climate and suitable soil, are considered to be well adapted to the cultivation of the grape, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>"The northern half of the valley of Upper California is watered by the Sacramento, which runs down south into the Bay of San Francisco, while the San Joachin comes into it from the Southern extremity, flowing northwards, and meeting the Sacramento in the bay, which is nearly in the middle of the valley."</P>
120.sgm:<P>It is in this northern part of the valley that the gold has hitherto been found.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"The Valley of the Sacramento is divided into an upper and lower part, the lower being 200 miles long, the upper about 100.  The latter is not merely entitled to the distinction <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:of upper, as being higher up on the river, but also as having a superior elevation of some thousands of feet above it.  The division is strongly and geographically marked.  The Shasti peak stands at the head of the lower valley, in the forks of the river, rising from a base of about 1000 feet, out of a forest of heavy timber.  It ascends, like an immense column, upwards of 14,000 feet, (nearly the height of Mont Blanc) the summit glistening with snow, and visible, from favourable points of view, at a distance of 140 miles down the valley.  The river here, in descending from the upper valley, plunges down through a <HI REND="italics">canon</HI>
120.sgm:<P>"Upper California partakes more of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Having thus given from the most authentic sources a brief account of the most striking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:geographical features of Upper California, I shall now quote from the same authorities a <HI REND="italics">resume&acute;</HI>
120.sgm:<P>It is a matter of importance to know, that wherever gold is found in superficial alluvial strata, as it is in California, it belonged originally to those mountains, whence the river, along whose banks the metal is found, has its source.  Such is the case in Virginia, in Georgia, and Carolina; and in some places the course of the river has been traced back, till the vein itself has been reached, and, as the perforations were made, the gold was found in the veins below.  Over the plains where such run, the soil of its banks or shores will be enriched with particles of gold or sand, brought down by the running water.  In the decomposition of the rocks forming the lofty peaks of Paraguay, in South America, masses of gold have been precipitated, weighing from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:one to fifty pounds; and other mines have furnished masses weighing from twenty-eight to one hundred pounds.  Generally speaking, where mountain ranges cut or cross each other, showing that there the greatest upheavings and disturbances have occurred, the precious metals are usually found in the purest and most abundant state.  Now, several other substances are found in these situations, having, to the inexperienced eye, much the appearance of the metal in question, but which are utterly valueless.  These can be easily recognised by very simple tests.  The sulphuret of iron, or iron pyrites, for instance, is a substance which much resembles gold in colour, but differs from it in the following ways: gold can be cut with a knife, like lead or zinc; the sulphuret of iron cannot; it resists all attempts of the kind, and will crumble instead of cutting.  Secondly, if the substance be struck with steel, and fire is produced, it is pyrites--such an effect will not follow if it were gold.  Again, if a small piece of the mineral be placed upon a wire, over a candle, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>Gold again is much heavier than any other similar substance.  The specific gravity of Californian gold is 15.96, nearly sixteen times heavier than water.</P>
120.sgm:<P>A drop of nitric acid placed upon gold will have no effect upon it; while, if the same agent be applied to baser metals, it will have the effect of changing their colour, and blackening their surface.  It appears that the gold was first detected on the American Fork, about forty miles above Sutter's Fort, (now called New Helvetia) and 1,500 or 2,000 feet above the level of the sea.  The distance of the lower washing is twenty-five miles.  The hills in which the diggings are made are composed of a clayey and slaty formation, overgrown with very large trees, mostly the <HI REND="italics">Pinus Lambertiani</HI>
120.sgm:.  From the convenience of sawing the trees, the mill was erected that led to the discovery of the precious metal.  These hills form the first rise of the California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>The gold is found in its virgin state, disseminated in small particles, of different sizes and different forms.  Sometimes the small pieces are without any particular shape, sometimes they resemble small leaves, sometimes twigs; and sometimes the metal is found in masses.  It is found in three distinct deposits: 1, in sand and gravel-beds; 2, among decomposed granite; 3, intermixed with talcose slate.  These rocks, in their original state, are hard, massive, and solid, but have now become soft and friable.  This change has occurred from the long continued action of the weather and the atmosphere upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:them.  Some of the different ingredients that enter into the composition of the granite, or diorite rocks, are more easily decomposed than the others; this causes a vacant space or chink to be formed in the rock, which then receives the rain or melted snow.  When the temperature lowers so much as to freeze the water lodged in these cavities, from the ice occupying more space than the water did, it acts as so many wedges of great power, which split off masses of the rock, that fall down into the river below.  These masses, often containing gold in greater or lesser quantity, are carried down with the stream, undergoing friction in their passage, and at last becoming ground into gravel or sand, according to the rapidity of the stream, the distance they have been carried, and the impediments they have met with in their transit.  The largest pieces are found near and in the talcose slate rocks, but the finer particles and scales have been carried down by the streams to the lowest part of the valleys, where they are mixed with sand on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>The composition of Californian gold, according to the best analysis, is--</P>
120.sgm:<P>Gold<HSEP>88.75</P>
120.sgm:<P>Silver<HSEP>8.88</P>
120.sgm:<P>Copper<HSEP>85</P>
120.sgm:<P>Siliceous residue<HSEP>1.40</P>
120.sgm:<P>Loss<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">12</HI>
120.sgm:<P>100</P>
120.sgm:<P>"From the character of the deposit in which the gold is at present discovered, and the fact that the streams are quite clear, and do not carry alluvial with them," says a clever writer, "we may conclude that they are of ancient date, and that the disintegrating process is not going on rapidly.  The specimens of gold obtained up to the present time confirm this theory, for they all exhibit a fused appearance; some have pebbles of quartz embedded in them, and some are amalgamated.  These latter are about the size of duck-shot, proving incontestably the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.<LB>LOWER CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
120.sgm:<P>The following description of Lower California, from the pen of Mr. Farnham, conveys so completely to the mind the general impression made by its first aspect on a stranger, and gives, besides, so correct an estimate of its resources and capabilities, that I cannot resist the temptation to transfer it to my pages:--</P>
120.sgm:<P>"From the highlands near the mouth of the Rio Colorado, where it forms a junction with the Gulf of California, a wild and somewhat interesting scene opens.  In the east appears a line of mountains of a dark hue, stretching down the coast of the Gulf as far as the eye can reach.  These heights are generally destitute of trees; but timber grows in some of the ravines.  The general aspect, however, is far from pleasing.  There is such a vastness of monotonous desolation; so dry, so blistered with volcanic fires; so forbidding to the wants of thirsting and hungering men; that one gladly turns his eye upon the water, the <HI REND="italics">Mar de Cortes</HI>
120.sgm:, the Gulf of California.  The Colorado, two and a half miles in width, rushes into this Gulf with great force, lashing as it goes the small islands lying at its mouth, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>"The province of Lower California extends from Cape San Lucas to the Bay of Todos Santos, and varies from thirty to one hundred and fifty miles in width, a superficial extent almost equal to that of Great Britain; and yet, on account of its barrenness, never will, from the products of the soil, maintain five hundred thousand people in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:state of comfort ordinarily found in the civilized condition.  This statement may seem surprising to those who are acquainted with the geological fact that, though it is a volcanic country, the lava and other volcanic matter is decomposing at the usual rate.  But surprise will cease when such persons are informed that every few years tornadoes sweep over the country with such violence, and bearing with them such floods of rain, that whatever of soil has been in any manner previously formed, is swept into the sea.  So that even those little nooks among the mountains, where the inhabitants from time to time make their fields, and task the vexed earth for a scanty subsistence, are liable to be laid bare by the torrents.  In case the soil chance to be lodged in some other dell, before it reach the Ocean or the Gulf, and the people follow it to its new location, they find perhaps no water there, and cannot cultivate it.  Consequently, they are often driven by dreadful want to some other point in quest of sustenance, where they may not find it, and perish among the parched highlands.  For the space of twenty or thirty leagues from the Cape San Lucas, the air is rendered mild and kindly by the sea-breezes, and the ground in many parts being wet by little currents of water running from the highlands, is very fruitful.  From this section to Loretto, latitude 26&deg; 16' N., the heat is excessive, the soil dry and barren, and the surface of the country extremely craggy and forbidding.  From Loretto northward to Todos Santos, the air is more temperate, the water in the mountains sometimes freezes, and the soil is not so rugged and full of rocks, but is barren and desolate as that around Loretto.  The mean range of temperature in the whole country, in the summer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>"The range of mountains occupying the whole interior of this country vary in height from one to five thousand feet above the level of the sea.  They are almost bare of all verdure, mere brown piles of barrenness, sprinkled, here and there, with a cluster of briars, small shrubs, or dwarf trees.  Among the ridges are a few spots to which the sweeping rains have spared a little soil.  These, if watered by springs or streams, are beautiful and productive.  There are also a few places near the coast which are well adapted to tillage and pasturage.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"But the principal difficulty with this region is one common to all countries of volcanic origin--a scarcity of water.  The porousness of the rocks allows it to pass under ground to the sea.  Consequently, one finds few streams and springs in Lower California.  From the Cape San Lucas to the mouth of the Colorado, six hundred miles, there are only two streams emptying into the Gulf.  One of these is called San Josef del Cabo: it passes through the plantations of the Mission bearing the same name, and discharges itself into the bay of San Barnabas.  The other is the Mulege, which waters the Mission of Santa Rosalia, and enters the Gulf in latitude 27&deg; N.  These are not navigable.  The streams on the ocean coast, also, are few and small.  Some of them are large enough to propel light machinery, or irrigate considerable tracts of land, but none of them are navigable.  In the interior are several large springs, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>"These isolated facts, in regard to the great territory under consideration, will give the reader as perfect an idea of the surface and agricultural capabilities of Lower California as will be here needed.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"The few fertile spots in Lower California were occupied at an early day, and planted with maize, wheat, beans, peas, and all manner of esculent roots.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"The European vine was also introduced extensively, and yielded grapes of the finest quality.  From these grapes wines were made, which were equal in excellence to those of the Canary Islands.  The orange, lemon, lime, citron, prune, plantain, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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120.sgm:<P>"But there is, in the construction of the Universe, a great compensatory law, which, when one blessing is withheld, grants another in its stead.  So here, while the land is desolate, the sea is stored with an incredible abundance and variety of fish.  Only a few of them can be named: the halibut, salmon, turbot, skate, pilchard, large oyster, thornback, mackerel, barbel, bonitos, soles, lobsters, crabs, sardines, cod, tunnies, anchovies, and pearl-oysters.  These fish are all of the finest quality, and exceedingly numerous.  In a word, the waters of Lower California are so rich, that, although the land be dreary, and, for the most part, a leafless waste, the country would be a valuable acquisition to any commercial nation.  The value of the pearl-oyster alone would authorise us to make this remark.  There are immense beds of these in the Gulf.  These pearls of Lower California are considered of excellent water; but their rather irregular figure somewhat reduces their value.  The manner of obtaining these pearls is not without interest.  The vessels employed in the fisheries are from fifteen to thirty tons burden.  They are usually fitted out by private individuals.  The Armador, or owner, commands them.  Crews are shipped to work them, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"This division having been concluded, they next proceed, without moving from their places, to open the oysters which have fallen to the lot of the Armador.  During this operation, the dignitary has to watch the Busos with the greatest scrutiny, to prevent them from swallowing the pearls with the oysters; a trick which they perform with so much dexterity, as almost to defy detection, and by means of which they often manage to secrete the most valuable pearls.  The government portion is next opened with the same precautions, and taken into possession by the Armador.  And last of all, the Busos open theirs, and sell them to the Armador, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>"In the year 1831, one vessel with seventy Busos, another with fifty, and two with thirty each, and two boats with ten each, from the coast of Senora, engaged in this fishery.  The one brought in forty ounces of pearls, valued at $6,500; another twenty-one ounces, valued at $3,000; another twelve ounces, valued at $2,000; and the two boats a proportionate quantity.  There were in the same season ten or twelve other vessels, from other parts, employed in the trade; which, if equally successful, swelled the value of pearls taken in that year to the sum of more than $40,000.</P>
120.sgm:<P>"This pearl-fishery, indeed, is the principal source of wealth in Lower California.  From the soil little can ever be derived; unless the deserts and mountains, like other volcanic districts on the west coast of the continent, should prove to be stored with the precious metals.  There is a high probability that this may be found the case; for a mine called San Antonio, near La Paz, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>END OF VOL I.</P>
120.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
120.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
120.sgm:<P>F. Shoberl, Jun., Printer to H.R.H. Prince Albert, Rupert Street.</P>
121.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-121</TITLE>
121.sgm:<TITLE>Personal adventures in Upper and Lower California, in 1848-9; with the author's experience at the mines. Illustrated by twenty-three drawings ...By William Redmond Ryan ...: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
121.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
121.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
121.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
121.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
121.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
121.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
121.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc01-816</LCCN>
121.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
121.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
121.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P><illus entity="a121-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE STANISLAUS MINE</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>PERSONAL ADVENTURES</P>
121.sgm:<P>IN</P>
121.sgm:<P>UPPER</P>
121.sgm:<P>AND</P>
121.sgm:<P>LOWER CALIFORNIA,</P>
121.sgm:<P>IN 1848-9;</P>
121.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-THREE DRAWINGS, TAKEN ON</P>
121.sgm:<P>THE SPOT.</P>
121.sgm:<P>BY</P>
121.sgm:<P>WILLIAM REDMOND RYAN.</P>
121.sgm:<P>IN TWO VOLUMES.</P>
121.sgm:<P>VOL. II.</P>
121.sgm:<P>LONDON:</P>
121.sgm:<P>WILLIAM SHOBERL, PUBLISHER,</P>
121.sgm:<P>20, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.</P>
121.sgm:<P>1851.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>F. Shoberl, Jun., Printer to HRH Prince Albert, Rupert Street, Haymarket.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS<LB>OF<LB>THE SECOND VOLUME.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>The first night at the "diggins"--The gold pockets or "diggins"--Trading posts--Speculation--An old acquaintance--News of old friends--Fortune capricious even in California--Gold-digging hard work--Sonoreans "dry-washing" for gold--Quality of the ore--Exploration of the mine--The source of the precious deposits--Morals of the miners or diggers--Doctor Dan--Another old acquaintance--Intelligence from other mines--The North Fork--Sutter's Fort and Mill--Shirt-washing more profitable than gold-washing--Halliday's ill luck<HSEP>1</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>Gold-digging and gold-washing--Reflections and moralizings put to flight--My first attempt at gold-washing--Further account of the Stanislaus Mine--The Mormon Diggins, and Carson's Creek--The Indians--An end to my mining fit--I turn trader--Removal up the mine--Start for Stocton--The town of Stocton--Paper at a premium--Robberies and murders--My friend Burke--Additional particulars respecting the mines--News of O'Reilly--Doings at the Macalamo--Lynch law--Resolution to leave Stocton<HSEP>33</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>"Pencillings by the way," by Mr. Weaver--Crossing of the San Joachin--Loss of my steed--A fit of despondency--"Toolie" house on the river--An unchristian and uncharitable "Dean"--Taken for a suspicious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:character--Recovery of my horse--"Black Jack" in a fix--Hunger stronger than prejudice--"'Twixt the cup and the lip"--Boarding-house society at Pueblo--Return to Monterey<HSEP>65</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XX.<LB>Accommodation for man and beast--The tinman's rise in the world--Relative advantages of San Francisco and Monterey--Future prospects of California--A bad exchange--Jemmy Cullen, the Irish Blacksmith--Might <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
121.sgm: right--A black diamond of the first water--Hector Moncrieff's catastrophe<HSEP>91</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXI.<LB>Horse-stealing--An execution--A lucky escape--Penal laws of Mexico--Gambling at Monterey--"The California" steamer and her passengers--Nice pickings for speculators--The gambling-fever at its climax--Trading with a vengeance--The mysterious dozen--Sign- painting more curious than profitable--Resolution to repair to San Francisco--The death-bed of a murderer--His orphan--Mr. Graham and "The Revolution of 1836"--The usual reward of patriotism--The long-expected vessel--Her captain and crew--The voyage--Arrival at San Francisco<HSEP>118</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXII.<LB>Our entry into the Bay of San Francisco--The Strait--The Bay--Its beautiful situation--Description of the Bay--Pueblo and Suissoon Bays--Former insignificance of San Francisco--The discovery of the gold mines--The voice of Mammon--The change--The town of San Francisco as it appears from the Bay--The Island of Goats--Sacramento city--The route by water--Some particulars concerning Sacramento city--Ground-rents--The "red woods" of Pueblo--Their peculiarities<HSEP>146</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXIII.<LB>Difficulties of landing--A <HI REND="italics">ruse de guerre</HI>
121.sgm: --First aspect of San Francisco, as seen from a height--Scene on the beach, on the arrival of an emigrant ship--Dandies at a discount--Friends from the "diggins"--Early history of San Francisco, under the Spaniards and Mexicans--Its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:rise, present prosperity, and future prospects--The Mission of San Dolores<HSEP>169</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXIV.<LB>The Washington Market--The Colonnade--The Gotham Saloon--The Plaza--The Miners' Bank--The Parker House--The Cafe&acute; Franc&cedil;ais--An old acquaintance--Notions respecting the mines and things in general, as they appeared at San Francisco--High price of provisions--The Gamblers of the Parker House--Some account of the game of <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm: --Tricks of the game--Tapping, and barring, and bursting--The Golden Eagle--The El-Dorado--Gamesters' chances--Curious customers--Jemmy Twitcher--The City Hotel--The Custom-House--A prudent calculation--My first night in San Francisco<HSEP>189</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXV.<LB>A start in search of fortune--Antoine of Monterey--My first venture--The California liner--Difficulties of captains in getting crews--Cheap lodgings at the Buckland--I set up in business--My success--I take a partner--The Yankee miner--More news about the "diggins"--My second partner--His squaw and squaller--Novel cottage--The season in San Francisco--Scarcity of good water--Value of a horse and cart--Wages and profits<HSEP>221</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXVI.<LB>Politics in San Francisco--Democracy <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
121.sgm: Aristocracy--The right of the majority illustrated--Pistol law <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
121.sgm: Mexican law--State of Society--The Hounds--Their exploits--The Hollow--Expulsion of the Hounds, and capture of their leader--The Chinese settlers--The French--A dusty dinner--The Happy Valley--Frightful condition of the Brooklyn emigrants--Deaths from scurvy<HSEP>250</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXVII.<LB>Unhealthiness of San Francisco--Prevalent maladies--Climate of California generally considered--Precautions to be observed by emigrants--Lack of women--Desirableness of female immigration--Mrs. Farnham's scheme frustrated--Advice to young ladies about to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:emigrate--Dear tooth-drawing--Dolores--The first street-organ in California--Success of enterprise--Competition even in itinerant music--Theatricals in California--Proclamation against foreigners digging in the mines--Consequences--French spirit <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
121.sgm: American intolerance--The Indians--A murder, and sanguinary retaliation--Population of California<HSEP>276</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXVIII.<LB>Political excitement--Preliminary steps towards the adoption of a constitution--Meeting of the Convention--The slavery question--Arrival of an important political personage--Determination to return to the States--Jemmy Twitcher--Paternal interest for a prodigal son--A Michael Angelo in search of fortune--A Frenchman in search of his wife<HSEP>305</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXIX.<LB>Departure from San Francisco--A moral deduced from painful experience--Penalties paid for the pursuit of wealth--O'Reilly on his return from the land of gold--News of old friends--Dr. Freu&uml;nd in a scrape--Riot on board--First trip of the California steamer to Panama<HSEP>328</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXX.<LB>"A good wife is a crown to her husband"--A beggar on horseback--"All is not gold that glitters"--Cares and anxieties of wealth--Another outbreak on board--San Diego--San Pedro--A mining-party in a fix--A death on board--San Blas--A happy riddance--Acapulco--The harbour and its incidents<HSEP>348</P>
121.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXI.<LB>Arrival at Panama--Agreeable surprise--The American Hotel--Scene in a Cockpit--Decayed appearance of the public buildings--Robbery of gold-dust--Crossing the Isthmus--Cortes's road--A lady cavalier--The carriers of Panama--Crucis--Exorbitant charges--Arrival at Gorgona--A Kanaka heroine--Chagres--Departure for New York<HSEP>368</P>
121.sgm:<P>APPENDIX<HSEP>397</P>
121.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>PERSONAL ADVENTURES</P>
121.sgm:<P>IN</P>
121.sgm:<P>UPPER AND LOWER CALIFORNIA.</P>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>The first night at the "diggins"--The gold pockets or "diggins"--Trading posts--Speculation--An old acquaintance--News of old friends--Fortune capricious even in California--Gold-digging hard work--Sonoreans "dry-washing" for gold--Quality of the ore--Exploration of the mine--The source of the precious deposits--Morals of the miners or diggers--Doctor Dan--Another old acquaintance--Intelligence from other mines--The North Fork--Sutter's Fort and Mill--Shirt-washing more profitable than gold-washing--Halliday's ill luck.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The mine was a deep ravine, embosomed amidst lofty hills, surmounted by and covered with pine, and having, in the bottom itself, abundance of rock, mud, and sand.  Halliday <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:and I encamped at the very lowest part of the ravine, at a little distance from Don Emanuel's party; a steep rock which towered above our heads affording us shelter, and a huge, flat stone beneath our feet promising a fair substitute for a dry bed.  Here then we stretched our <HI REND="italics">macheers</HI>
121.sgm: and blankets, and arranged our saddles and bags, so as to make ourselves as comfortable and warm as possible, although, in spite of our precautions and contrivances, and of a tolerably good fire, our encampment was bitterly cold, and we lay exposed to a heavy dew.  We had given up our horses into the charge of the Indians, and I saw to their being safely placed in the <HI REND="italics">cavallard</HI>
121.sgm:, whilst Halliday went to chop wood; a task I was too weak to perform.  I cannot say we slept; we might more correctly be said to have had a long and most uncomfortable doze, and when morning broke, we were shivering with cold, and shook the dew in a shower from our clothes.  I consulted with my companion, and urged upon him the prudence of our setting to work to construct ourselves a sort of log cabin; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>As my strength was unequal to the task of felling timber, I endeavoured to procure four poles, intending to sink them into the ground, and to stretch on the top of them a bed-tick I had reserved for the purpose.  The contrivance was a sorry one at the best, but shelter was indispensable; and great was my disappointment--though I procured the timber after a painful search--to find that the rocks presented an insuperable obstacle to my employing it as I intended.  My efforts to sink the poles proved utterly futile, and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Within a few paces of our encampment there was a large area of ground, probably half a mile square, the surface of which consisted of dark soil and slate, and was indented with innumerable holes of every possible dimension, from six inches to as many feet or more, wide and deep.  In all of these lay abundance of water, of which large quantities are to be found a little beneath the surface, the ravine being supplied with it in great abundance by the rains that pour down from the hills during the wet season.  To the extreme right of our camp, the ground assumed a more rocky character; and, from the vast deposit of stagnant water, did not seem to offer many attractions to the miners.  Yet there was scarcely a spot in any of these places where the crow-bar, the pick, or the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In crossing the ravine, I was obliged to leap from one mound of earth to another, to avoid plunging ancle-deep in mud and water.  It was wholly deserted in this part, though formerly so much frequented; and, with the exception of a few traders, who, having taken up their station here when times were good, had not yet made arrangements for removing to a more productive place, not a soul was to be seen.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I walked on until I reached the trading-post of Mr. Anderson, formerly our interpreter in the Lower Country, whom I felt delighted to meet with again.  His shed was situated in one of the dampest parts of the mine, and consisted of a few upright poles, traversed by cross-pieces, and covered in with raw hides and leaves, but yet much exposed at the sides to the wind and the weather.  He had a few barrels of flour and biscuit, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I discovered, however, that he possessed another resource--by which his gains were marvellously increased--in the services of seven or eight Indians, whom he kept constantly at work, in the rear of his shed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Proceeding higher up the ravine, I observed a large tent erected on the slope of a hill, within a few yards of the bottom, where the gold is usually found.  It was surrounded by a trench, the clay from which, as it was dug up, had apparently been thrown out against the canvass, forming a kind of embankment, rendering it at once water and weather-proof.  I ventured into it, encountering on my way an immense piece of raw beef, suspended from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:the ridge-pole.  Upon some stones in front, enclosing a small fire, stood a fryingpan, filled with rich-looking beef collops, that set my mouth watering, and severely tested my honesty; for, although acorns are all very well in their way, and serve to stay the cravings of the stomach for awhile, I did not find my appetite any the less sharp, notwithstanding the quantity I had eaten.  But I resisted the temptation, and penetrated further into the tent.  At one side of it lay a crow-bar, and an old saddle that had seen rough service; yet not a soul appeared, and my eyes were again ogling the collops, whilst an inward voice whispered how imprudent it was to leave them frizzling there, when, all at once, a little man, in a "hickory shirt," with his face all bedaubed with pot-black and grease, darted out from some dark corner, flourishing in one hand a long bowie-knife, and in the other three by no means delicate slices of fat pork, which he at once dropped into the fryingpan, stooping down on one knee, and becoming immediately absorbed in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I enjoyed now a fair opportunity of examining his features, and felt much gratified to recognise in him one of my former companions, the smartest man of his corps, and whom I had last seen at Monterey.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Good morning, Firmore," said I;  "I wish you joy of your occupation."</P>
121.sgm:<P>He started up from his knees, and looked at me awhile in perfect amazement; then rushing upon me with such earnestness as nearly to throw me down, he shook me by the hand until I thought he would work my arm out of its socket.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"What, you!" he exclaimed.  "Well, well.  Who ever would have thought to see you here!  How did you come, and where did you start from?  You are looking all the worse for wear."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I can't say you look quite as dapper, Firmore," replied I, "as you did the day we went ashore at Valparaiso.  But I suppose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, I don't know that!" he responded: "I have had but indifferent luck.  For several days after I got here, I did not make any thing; but since then I have, by the hardest work, averaged about seven dollars a day.  When you consider the price of provisions, the hardness of the labour, and the wear and tear of body, mind, and <HI REND="italics">clothes--here he exhibited his rags--"you will admit that this is but poor remuneration.  However, I live in hopes of getting a streak of luck yet.  I am now cooking for our party.  There are ten of us, and amongst the rest are Van Anken and Hughes.  Van has been immensely fortunate.  Every place he touches turns to gold under his fingers.  Sometimes, after exhausting one place, he tries another which has been abandoned, and I have known him pick out of it seven and eight ounces a day, for days together.  One thing is, he never tires.  He is, as you know, a stout though a small-made man, with a constitution as tough as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"I should have thought him likelier to succeed than any other," I observed; "for he is a large and a strong-looking man."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Ah! it's more luck than any thing else," replied he.  "But, luck or no luck, no man can pick up gold, even here, without the very hardest labour, and that's a fact.  Some think that it is only to come here, squat down anywhere, and pick away.  But they soon find out their mistake.  I never knew what hard work was until I came here.  Talk of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I looked out and beheld the party coming down the ravine, with crow-bars over their shoulders and wash-bowls under their arms.  Van appeared glad to meet with me again; and, I must say, that, notwithstanding the inordinate selfishness brought into action by the peculiar circumstances in which the miners were placed, the <HI REND="italics">esprit-de-corps</HI>
121.sgm: of the volunteers prevented and alleviated much suffering amongst individuals.  They cordially <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE "DIGGINS"--SONOREANS DRY-WASHING GOLD.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I came up next with a group of three Sonoreans, or inhabitants of Sonora, busily engaged on a small sandy flat--the only one I had observed--at the bottom of the ravine.  There was no water near, although I noticed several holes which had evidently been sunk in quest of it.  These men were actively pursuing a process that is termed "dry-washing."  One was shovelling up the sand into a large cloth, stretched out upon the ground, and which, when it was tolerably well covered, he took up by the corners, and shook until the pebbles and larger particles of stone and dirt came to the surface.  These he brushed away carefully with his hand, repeating the process of shaking and clearing until the residue was sufficiently fine for the next operation.  This was performed by the other men, who, depositing the sand in large bowls hewn out of a solid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I noticed, that although the largest proportion of the gold obtained in this manner presented the appearance of a fine powder, it was interspersed, here and there, with large scales of the precious deposit, and with a few solid lumps.  The metal was of a dingy hue, and, at a cursory view, might easily have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I may as well mention here, that of the various new machines manufactured and sent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:out to California for the purpose of digging and washing gold, the great majority have been found quite useless.  There are two or three of them, however, that have been employed with great success.  I have made a sketch of those most in use amongst the diggers, as my readers may feel desirous of acquainting themselves with the latest improvements introduced in the art of mining, as practised in this country.  They consist, in the first place, of the washing-rocker, or "cradle," which has, in numerous instances, formed the model for ruder machines, constructed by the miners themselves whilst in the mountains.  The lid, at the bottom of which lie the holes through which the gold and soil pass, is fastened by hinges at the back, in order that it may be raised up the more readily to throw off, from time to time, the stones that accumulate.  Three men are required to work this rocker with success, and there are few processes in which a smaller number could operate without extraordinary labour.  One person throws the soil upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GOLD ROCKER--WASHING PAN--GOLD BORER.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The second machine, in importance, is the gold-borer.  It is particularly useful in examining the bottom of streams, and consists of a short conical cylinder at the end of a long handle, containing inside, at its lower extremity, a valve, arranged so as to admit the earth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the success which seemed to attend the labours of the Sonoreans, I subsequently discovered that the entire of the gold thus painfully obtained disappeared at the gambling-stalls.  They were generally clad most wretchedly, many of them wearing nothing more than a dirty shirt, a pair of light pantaloons, and the wide <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
121.sgm: peculiar to the inhabitants of this country and Mexico.  Some few sported a <HI REND="italics">serapa</HI>
121.sgm:<P>Continuing my route up the ravine, I met a man named Corrigan, galloping along with two fine horses, one of which he was leading.  He stopped as soon as he recognised me, and we were soon engaged in a very interesting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:conversation respecting the doings at the "diggins."  The substance of his information was, that he had made a great deal of money at the mines by digging, but infinitely more by speculation.  He thought of buying a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>As I advanced, the ground became drier and more sandy, rock and slate of various kinds abounding; some quite soft and friable, yielding readily to the pickaxe or the crowbar; and, in other places, so hard as to resist the utmost strength of the miners.  Several of the diggers were perseveringly exploring the localities where the rotten sorts of slate were found in the largest quantities, and I saw them pick out a good deal of gold with their jack-knives.  Their principal aim was to discover what they termed "a pocket," which is nothing more than a crevice between the blocks of slate, into which a deposit of gold has been washed by the heavy rains from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>There did not appear to be many mining-parties at the Stanislaus at this particular period, for the encampments were generally from two to five miles apart, the space between them increasing the higher you advanced towards the mountains, to the foot of which the ravine extended--altogether, a distance of many miles.  The lower part of the mine, I concluded from this fact, to be by far the richer, simply from the circumstance I have mentioned: richer, comparatively, because here the deposits of gold are more easily found and extracted; not richer, in reality, as the metal must exist in immense quantities in the upper regions, from which it is washed down by the rains and floods into the lower districts.  The virgin deposit would, doubtless, be difficult to come at; but, if sought after at all, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I turned back, after prosecuting my excursion until the ravine became almost too rocky to allow me to proceed, and until I saw that the "diggins" diminished materially in number.  On clambering the hills at the side, I beheld abundance of pines, oak, cedar, and palm; but no grass, nor vegetation of any other kind, save prickly shrubs, with here and there a patch of extremely dry moss.  On my way back, I passed several tents and huts erected by the miners, all of the very poorest and most wretched description.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I found Van Anker's party at dinner, in front of their tent.  Van showed me a leathern bag, containing several pounds' weight of very pure gold, and which was carelessly tossed about from one to the other for examination.  It was the produce of his morning's work, he having fortunately struck upon a large pocket.</P>
121.sgm:<P>On inquiring whether, as there existed such strong temptation, robberies were not very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Gambling and drinking were carried on, I found, to a most demoralizing extent.  Brandy and champagne, whenever they were brought to the "diggins," realized enormous prices, varying from sixteen to twenty dollars a bottle; and some of the men would, after accumulating some hundred dollars, squander the whole in purchasing these beverages.  Believing the supply of gold to be inexhaustible, they persisted in this reckless course, and discovered only when it became too late to redeem their error, that even here gold cannot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:always be procured.  They went on until the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
121.sgm:<P>The miners were by no means averse to lending "dust" to those who required it, notwithstanding that the lenders often experienced some difficulty in getting back the advance.  One of Van's party, for instance, lent another six ounces of gold, which not being returned at the stipulated period, nor for some time afterwards, he dunned his debtor at every meal, until the latter, who had quietly submitted to the importunity, begged him to "just wait ten minutes, and time it."  He shouldered his pickaxe, as he said this, and going out of the shed, returned within the time, bringing back more than sufficient to liquidate the debt.  This little incident created much amusement.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I did not find Halliday when I reached our encampment, but saw that Don Emanuel's party had not lost time; for, with their waggons, and a few boards and sticks, they had succeeded in establishing a sort of store, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>We found the group increased by several newcomers, and amongst these was Doctor Dan, a diminutive, fair-haired Irishman, well known in this part of the mining districts.  In his younger days, he had taken a fresh start in life as a captain's clerk, having shipped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Amongst the priesthood of California, there happened to be a gentleman of Irish descent, the Reverend Mr. Murphy, to whom Dan soon procured an introduction, the result of which was, that Mr. Murphy ascertained that he possessed a knowledge--such as it was--of drugs and medicine, picked up in an apothecary's store, where he had been employed, and advised him to set up for a doctor, which advice Dan--now Doctor Dan--forthwith adopted and acted upon, and, through Murphy's influence and recommendation, soon got into a very extensive practice in the town and neighbourhood of San Barbara.  He improved upon his success by marrying a Californian lady, with whom he obtained a good <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>On the setting-in of the gold fever, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In the course of conversation, I was in turn recognised by an old companion, one Frederick Whittle, whom I had last seen at New York, but whom I certainly should not have known again, from the change that had taken place in him, from the gentlemanly young fellow to the rough miner.  His face, which was still round and florid, was half-covered with a huge, shaggy beard flowing down nearly to his waist.  He wore a short, green-baize jacket, buckskin breeches, leather leggings, and a wide-brimmed hat; his neck enwrapped in a dirty red <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In consequence of a disagreement with his father, he had quitted the paternal roof, intending to make a journey to the mines, and not to return without a competency.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I have been working a long time at the North Fork," he said, in reply to a question of mine, "where I had a rich spot, though it had been dug before.  I got about five hundred dollars there; but, finding the "diggin" exhausted, and hearing a good account of the Stanislaus, I came on to it, but have not met with much success.  Some days, however, I have been very lucky, and obtained from five to ten ounces at a time."</P>
121.sgm:<P>I ventured upon some inquiries respecting the North Fork, to which he replied--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I started from Sacramento city for Sutter's Fort, getting my baggage conveyed by steamer.  I reached a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
121.sgm: close by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"But what of this Sutter's Fort, we've heard so much about?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, it's a smart little town for California, about forty-five miles from Sacramento city, the greater portion of it belonging to this Mr. Marshall.  It contains about three hundred regular built houses, about a story and a half high; but they are now erecting a magnificent hotel there, and the place is likely to grow to anything.  Most of the houses are of wood, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:but there are a good many tents.  They were already beginning to build on the other side of the river when I left.  The town is situated in a valley, and right on the South American Fork.  To the north of it is a wooden bridge, to cross which a toll of twenty-five cents each person is exacted; and, on the opposite side, is the road to the Middle and North Forks.  Whilst there, I met some old friends, who had just returned from the Dutch Bar.  Their success had been varied, some coming back well laden, others indifferently, but all with something.  It seems, however, that at these `diggins' there was nothing but bickering and quarrelling going on, even fathers and sons separating and working each for himself.  But there, as at all these `diggins,' it isn't the diggers who get the bulk of the gold, but the traders and speculators.  I even know a person whose wife made a very handsome sum by washing linen, whilst her husband was away at the mines.  Think of twelve dollars a dozen, eh! Her husband remained absent somewhere about four weeks; and, though he came back <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I coincided in the opinion of my friend, that industry of any kind, applied in these districts to alleviate the privations or add to the comforts of the miners, offered a far readier source of riches than the gold-pockets themselves; and that a steady application to some practical mode of meeting the circumstances in which they were placed was a surer method of securing a competency than slaving at the mines.</P>
121.sgm:<P>It was late before Halliday and I returned to our camp.  We were neither of us in good spirits, and could not compose ourselves to sleep, so much were we excited by the novelty of our position, and so intense was the cold.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I tell you what," said he, as he tossed about under his blanket; "this mining, or goldhunting, is not what I thought it was, nor what it has been represented to be.  I worked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LIFE AT THE "DIGGINS"--SUPPER TIME.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"We must turn our attention to something, that's certain," I replied; "for our stock of provisions will not last beyond ten days, and when they are gone, I don't quite see how we are to exist, unless we get a stroke of luck.  I suppose there <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Yes, no doubt.  But it's everything to find it."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, if I had your strength and health, I would try the `diggin' myself.  But I fear the toil would be too severe for me, particularly as we are so badly lodged.  I could not work all day, and pass the night in this manner, without knocking up within eight and forty hours.  We must have a shed, Halliday, and that's the long and short of it."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I don't know who's to get the timber for it," retorted he.  "It' no such easy task to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Then you may depend upon it, I shall follow your example, Halliday.  I am not going to remain here watching our property and cooking, whilst you are away digging.  If you won't assist me to put up a bit of a shed, why our things must take their chance.  I shall try my hand to-morrow, and leave the traps to take care of themselves."</P>
121.sgm:<P>My companion muttered something in reply; and, as he did not seem inclined to continue the conversation, which certainly was not of the pleasantest kind, I left him to his own meditations, and confined my thoughts to myself, until I dropped off into a most comfortless doze.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>Gold-digging and gold-washing--Reflections and moralizings put to flight--My first attempt at gold-washing--Further account of the Stanislaus Mine--The Mormon Diggins, and Carson's Creek--The Indians--An end to my mining fit--I turn trader--Removal up the mine--Start for Stocton--The town of Stocton--Paper at a premium--Robberies and murders--My friend Burke--Additional particulars respecting the mines--News of O'Reilly--Doings at the Macalamo--Lynch law--Resolution to leave Stocton.</P>
121.sgm:<P>After breakfast next day, Halliday and I went out to try our luck at digging, and came up to Van Anken's party, whom we found busily employed.  Firmore was washing clay in pans, which another of the party had just cast in.  These pans were of tin, about eighteen inches wide, and perhaps two deep.  The clay, or sand, was selected according to certain peculiar indications of richness, and being deposited in the pans, and covered with water, the latter were shaken from side to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Van Anken adhered perseveringly to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>For my own part, now I was here, and could the more fully enter into the philosophy and fact of the thing, I began to entertain strong misgivings as to whether the results attained by such severe toil were at all commensurate with the sacrifices made in connexion with it.  According to my belief, and looking at the men as they wrought, no amount of success they might hope for could ever sufficiently compensate them--accustomed as the majority had been to the comforts and even refinements of civilized  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:society--for the privations and hardships they were compelled to endure; for the disruption of those social ties which bind men together; for the estrangement of the affections of their kith and kin; for the mental abnegations they must practise; for physical suffering and prostration; for the constant apprehension they dwelt in of dying a lingering death by fever and ague; and for the disorganization of habits which such a mode of life was calculated to induce even amongst the best regulated minds.  They wrought so hard and so perseveringly, that I felt persuaded that the same amount of industry, intelligence, and assiduity, conjoined with the exercise of the many virtues which the difficulties they had to encounter brought into activity, if it had been directed to the accomplishment of the same end, through the channels opened by the different professions and callings, must have resulted in securing to them an honourable position and a competency, without exposing them to the temptations of cupidity, or the follies of a speculative extravagance.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Luck, by G--!" said he, tossing up a small lump of gold, which he had succeeded in picking out with his knife from a hole at which he had stopped, whilst I stood gazing at the extraordinary scene around me, absorbed in my reflections.</P>
121.sgm:<P>This was quite enough to drive all philosophy out of my head, and I forthwith looked out for a likely place, and began to dig away as busily as the rest.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I wrought in good earnest the whole of that day, and was completely unsuccessful.  Nevertheless, I renewed the operation on the following one, and got about six dollars'-worth of gold; whilst Halliday procured to the value of ten.  The day after, we were both tolerably fortunate, bringing in between us about three ounces; but, during the remainder of the time we sojourned at the mine, Halliday did not average more than eight dollars a day, and I seldom exceeded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I had resolved upon seeing a little of the neighbouring country whilst I had the opportunity, and learning something further respecting the "upper diggins," namely, "Carson's Creek," and the "Mormon diggins," although both were by this time pretty well worn out.  They are situated a good distance up the ravine, the latter being distant from the Stanislaus about a mile to the eastward.  It had been considered as the best <HI REND="italics">placer</HI>
121.sgm: during the preceding  spring, and many of the miners dug from two ounces to two pounds of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>At the time I am now speaking of, however, the mineral wealth of both these mines, as well as of a third, called Angel's Camp, had considerably diminished, and they were much upon the same footing as the Stanislaus, in this respect.  I was informed that during the previous winter a great quantity of rain and snow had fallen in these parts of the Stanislaus, in consequence of which, the miners had been exposed to great privations, and provisions had risen to an enormous price, flour reaching four dollars a pound; pork, five; biscuit, three; and rice, two; whilst beef was not to be procured at any price.  The general appearance and peculiarities of these <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
121.sgm: did not present any characteristic difference from those other sections of the Stanislaus to which I have already alluded: there were numerous tents, good, bad, and indifferent; stores and gambling-booths; shanties <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>At the upper crossing of the Stanislaus River, I met with a large party of Americans, encamped near an Indian village containing about six hundred warriors, of whom an Irish <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;ro</HI>
121.sgm:<P>I learned that great misunderstandings had arisen, and still existed, between the Indians and the white men of the surrounding "diggins," in consequence of the numerous thefts--particularly of horses--which it was alleged the former daily committed; and many savage murders were likewise attributed to them.  It was in due time ascertained that these crimes were perpetrated by the Indians of the snowy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I found the Indians I first alluded to extremely punctilious in their dealings.  A party of them came to our camp one evening, and one of them, pointing to his mouth and to some flour lying in a bag near me, signified his wish to have some.  I offered him as much as I could spare, perhaps about a pound, which one of the squaws put into a sort of apron, and tied about her waist.  The Indian then handed me a small piece of gold, of the value of from five to six dollars.  I might have sold all the flour I possessed at the same rate, for this article had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The squaws were finely-proportioned women, but their features were somewhat coarse; a characteristic of the race.  Their heads were fantastically adorned with feathers and a few pieces of yellow cloth, whilst their persons were very scantily attired.  Most of them were armed with a bow arrows, the former being made of the toughest and most elastic wood, lined on the inner side with the strong sinews of some wild animal, which adhere to the surface of the wood by the application of a glutinous matter resembling gum.  Their arrows are straight, and highly finished, being armed at the point with sharp triangular pieces of flint, barbed by careful chipping, and neatly bound on.  These arrows are extremely difficult to withdraw from the flesh; and those who are wounded by them prefer having the whole missile pulled through the injured part to submitting the painful process of a more scientific abstraction.  Very few of the Indians of this country possessed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>To return, however, to what more immediately relates to myself, I may state, that finding trading more remunerative than gold-digging, I began to take advantage of any opportunities that presented themselves, to dispose of such articles as I could spare, to whoever felt inclined to give me a price for them.  A pair of pistols, which I had purchased at Monterey for eleven dollars and a half, I now sold to Corrigan for seven ounces of gold, and subsequently ascertained that he refused twelve for them higher up the ravine.  My old musket fetched two ounces; an overcoat that I had worn during my stay in California, and would really not have been worth a dollar anywhere but at the mines, realized twenty-four dollars; and getting now into the true <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Halliday followed my example, and succeeded equally well: for instance, he procured in gold double their real value, for some few dollars of coined money, which he sold to Don Emanuel's Indians, who, being inveterate gamblers, found dollars more convenient than gold-dust, and did not mind a sacrifice to procure them.  I ascertained also that he had agreed to accompany Doctor Dan on an excursion to Stocton, the Doctor's intention being to take his waggons and cattle there, to fetch up a large quantity of provisions to retail at the mine on his return.  For his services, Halliday was to receive nine ounces of gold.  The distance to Stocton and back, from the Stanislaus, is about one hundred and thirty miles.  Previously to his leaving, however, we removed three miles further up the ravine.  The reason of our doing so was, that we might still be near Don Emanuel's party; for the Don, discovering that the spot he had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Our stock of provisions being now exhausted, we purchased some biscuit and beef, and resumed our mining operations with such indifferent success, that, as Halliday had made up his mind to seek a more remunerative employment, and was even about to set out upon his trip to Stocton, I also determined to renounce gold-digging here, and to return to Monterey as soon as possible.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>At length the day arrived on which Doctor Dan's party and Halliday were to depart for Stocton.  I did not start with them, in consequence of a slight difference with Halliday on the subject of my horse; but, in the course of two hours after their departure, I determined upon following in their track; and accordingly packing up my baggage, and having provided myself with a proper supply of provisions, I bade adieu to my friends at the Stanislaus, and commenced my journey.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I travelled many weary miles that day: towards dusk, being attracted by the light of a fire in the distance, I hastened on in that direction, and found I had overtaken the Doctor's party.  They had encamped somewhat early, as the Doctor had stayed behind, and would not join them until morning.  I passed a comfortable night underneath one of the waggons, and slept profoundly.</P>
121.sgm:<P>In the morning the Doctor came up with us, accompanied by another gentleman, a lawyer named Dent, and an intimate friend of his.  He had left the States a considerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TRADING POST IN THE MINES.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>We continued our journey without any incident occurring worthy of record, save that we experienced great privation on one or two occasions, in consequence of the want of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I had heard so much of Stocton--so called after the Commodore of that name--that my curiosity was naturally excited to make acquaintance with a place so famous amongst the miners.  I counted eight tents, some spiral, others walled-in with canvass, one of which, about fifty feet long, served for a store.  There were several bulrush huts, and one immense wooden house in course of erection, some sixty feet square, and promising two strories.  It was intended for trading purposes, and had been long required by the proprietor, Mr. Weaver, whose business was very extensive, considering the appearance of the place, and who was the owner of the chief portion of the land about there.  He was endeavouring to attract settlers to the spot, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I determined to remain here for a few days, as much out of consideration to my jaded horse as to recruit my own strength; and as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The evening after our arrival, Halliday and I went out for a walk; and as he wished to write a letter, but lacked the necessary materials, he asked the owner of one of the bulrush huts if he could <HI REND="italics">give</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"I can <HI REND="italics">sell</HI>
121.sgm: you one," was the laconic rejoinder; which offer Halliday readily accepting, we entered the establishment.  It was a groggery of the lowest description, and at the counter stood two miners, drinking brandy.  An elderly female was in attendance, who served us with the sheet of paper, and received from Halliday, in return, a small piece of gold of the value of a shilling.  By especial permission, my companion wrote his letter on the counter, owing to an extra exercise of generosity on the part of the landlady, the use of pen and ink for the purpose.  As the air was intensely keen, we ventured upon a glass of the liquor, for which we paid very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Hearing a commotion outside, we proceeded to ascertain its cause, and discovered a tall mountaineer complaining of a loss he had just sustained.  He had encamped in a field, at about a mile from Mr. Weaver's trading-store; and, being alone, had left the place for about a quarter of an hour, to look after his horses.  He had about nine pounds' weight of gold tied up in a leathern bag, which he left in his tent, and which, on his return, he discovered had been stolen during his brief absence.  He came to offer the half of it to anybody who should enable him to recover the bag.  He was an Oregon man, and had a wife and large family depending upon the product of his labour at the mines, so that his case was a very hard one.  He never got back a grain of the gold; the thief, whoever he was, getting clear away with it, and avoiding detection.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Another Oregon man, and a sailor, his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:companion, who had been working at "Angel's Camp," on the Stanislaus, also fell victims to the cupidity and lawlessness at this time so prevalent in the Californias.  It appears they were on their way from "Angel's Camp" to Stocton, and stopped for the night at a place called "Double Springs," some twenty-one miles distant from the former spot.  The Oregon man had about his person about fifteen hundred dollars in gold; and the sailor, who was a mere boy, nine hundred dollars' worth.  They were overtaken by two men, who quitted the camp six hours after the departure of the sailor and his comrade, both of whom were found dead on the road; the latter having his head split in two, and the Oregon man's brains being blown out with buck-shot.  The murderers, as it appeared, were disturbed whilst rifling their victims, as they left behind them about four hundred dollars' worth of gold belonging to the sailor.  A party, upon coming up, discovered the dead bodies, and ascertained that the ruffians had possession of a fowling-piece and of a sword, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:property of the murdered men, and the instruments with which the deed had been perpetrated.  A messenger was instantly despatched to Stocton to give such information as might lead to their detection; but, instead of proceeding to this town, he stopped at a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>At length the criminals were apprehended, in consequence of the commission of another horrible murder, in the victims of which I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:took more than a passing interest, as they were associated with reminiscences of one of our late companions, Monsieur Frederic.  It will be remembered that, when he fell in with our party, he was on his way to his master, Mr. Read, who--before he discovered him, however--with eleven of his family, had been assassinated at the mission by a band of five Americans, and robbed of the large amount of gold they possessed.  The man Lynch turned out to be the ringleader of this desperate gang, and was shot dead whilst endeavouring to escape from the scene of the murder; another was captured, after a very desperate struggle, and taken to San Barbara, where he was tried and executed.  The rest were also apprehended, and were hanged at Pueblo de San Jose&acute;.  I chanced, whilst staying here, to encounter an old acquaintance, a volunteer named Burke, who had been sent upon detached service into the Lower Country.  He was much travel-worn, and had just come down from the mines, which he had been enabled to visit, long before any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"I have been all over the mines," said he, "and made money at every thing I turned my hand to, whether trading or digging.  Of the two, trading's the best.  My last spec. was a capital one.  I came down here and bought up a large quantity of miscellaneous articles; and, amongst the rest, a tremendous lot of strong shoes, which I paid for at the rate of four dollars a pair, taking them wholesale.  They all went off like wildfire at the mines, where I sold them again at ten and fifteen dollars a pair, and at last at twenty; and the people who wanted shoe-leather didn't think me unreasonable, either."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Pretty decent profit, too, Burke.  But just tell me something about the mines, will you, since you have been to them all."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, sure I can do that," replied he; and, as he enumerated the names, he told them off upon his fingers.  "There's the Towallomie, the Stanislaus, the Macalamo, the Merced, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I felt anxious to make further inquiry respecting the gold districts; and, knowing Burke to be a practical man, who had enjoyed opportunities of inspecting the localities he had enumerated, I pressed him for further information.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well," said he, "as to their situation, the whole of them lie between the San Joachin and the Sacramento and the Californian range of mountains.  In fact, the mines are nothing more than so many ravines which run across from the range, and are flooded in the rainy season by the torrents that pour down from the upper regions, and which, according to all I could see and learn, bring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Such, too, is my own notion, though people seem to think it may be found any where in this country, lying waste over an area of from five to eight hundred miles."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"All stuff!" retorted he, contemptuously.  "I know better than that, and so do thousands more, by this time.  They forget how far they may go before they come to what we miners call a likely place; and how many likely places a party may try before they get any gold out of them that's worth the trouble they've taken to procure it.  All stuff and nonsense, I say.  If you want gold, you must look for it in certain places; in the ravines, and gullies, and in the beds of the streams; in all sorts of out-of-the-way little crannies, where it hides away like a rabbit in a burrow.  You must seek it too in the mud, and clay, and sand, which we all know comes down with the water; and where there has been more found in bulk, though it was small, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Yes; it seems, from what little I know about the matter, that these are few and far between."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"As for that, one place is as likely as another, for the big pieces are not scarcer below than they are above."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"What do you think, now, of the lower diggins?  Are they better than the upper, or those which are nearest to the mountains?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I think they are; but those near the San Joachin and Sacramento have been pretty well worked out by this time, and they who try their luck further up will have to work harder the higher they go, and to look out sharp for provisions."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I heard that the Macalamo is the richest mine of all."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Yes, though formerly the Stanislaus was considered superior.  It lies north-west from Monterey, at a distance of about two hundred miles, and is a twenty-one days' journey with waggons.  The people dig for gold in two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<HI REND="italics">gulches</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Were you successful?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Was I?  Yes, <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"What is the character of this mine?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"It's a long ravine, the soil of which is red, and somewhat blueish in places, sand predominating.  The blue clay is considered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Were the diggers numerous?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"When I was there, I suppose there were about three hundred, some living in tents, some encamped under trees, and some in log huts.  A good many volunteers got there just as I was coming away, and more were on their way, I heard."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Did you see or hear any thing of a volunteer named O'Reilly?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Did I?  Who could be within ten miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I felt much rejoiced to learn this good news of my quondam comrade, and continued my inquiries, after hearing sundry characteristic anecdotes concerning O'Reilly, the recital of which I will spare the reader.</P>
121.sgm:<P>In reply to a question respecting the relative sizes of the ore, he informed me that the gold taken out of this mine runs large.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The average size of the lumps," he said, "is about that of a pea; some are as large as a bean; and I have seen pieces that weighed above two pounds.  Were you lucky at the Stanislaus?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Not very."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Ah, the fact is, it had been worked out before you got there.  It's an awful dull place; no amusement at all, unless one is fond of drinking.  I can't say the Macalamo's much better; although it is comparatively <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:fresher, and more populated.  The only pastimes there, besides tippling, are playing at <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Had you any robberies up there?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; but Lynching soon settled them.  One man, a sailor, a deserter from the Ohio, took it into his head, one night, to rob one of the volunteers, who had set up a drinking store.  He had already got two bags, containing about five thousand dollars' worth of gold; but, not satisfied with them, grasped at a third, half full of dollars in silver.  The jingling of the coin awoke the owner, who, springing up, gave the alarm, and, after a hot pursuit, the thief was captured, and bound to a tree until morning.  At about nine, a jury of twelve miners sat to consider the case, a volunteer named Nutman officiating for Judge Lynch.  Of course, he was found guilty, and sentenced to be hanged; but, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, he went off, and when he was about half a mile away, stole a mule, and rode over to the `Calaveras' diggins, where the animal was claimed by the owner.  He was thereupon tried for mule-stealing, and sentenced to receive another flogging; but when the miners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Our conversation embraced a multitude of similar topics, but we parted at last; and, after many days of reflection on what I had heard and seen, I made up my mind not to winter in this part of the country.</P>
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121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>"Pencillings by the way," by Mr. Weaver--Crossing of the San Joachin--Loss of my steed--A fit of despondency--"Toolie" house on the river--An unchristian and uncharitable "Dean"--Taken for a suspicious character--Recovery of my horse--"Black Jack" in a fix--Hunger stronger than prejudice--"'Twixt the cup and the lip"--Boarding-house society at Pueblo--Return to Monterey.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Having succeeded in purchasing some hard biscuit, at the rate of thirty cents a pound, I started, on the following morning, for the crossing of the San Joachin, which is about fourteen miles from Stocton.  I did not encounter a soul on the route: and the sense of loneliness stole upon me to such a degree, that I became a prey to the most gloomy thoughts.  After travelling for about eight miles, I perceived an object by no means calculated to relieve me from the depression of spirits under which I laboured--namely, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:graphic representation of a Death's head and cross-bones, which stood out in bold relief from a board nailed to the trunk of a tree a few paces off the road.  Expecting to find inscribed under it the account of some horrible murder, I rode up to inspect it more narrowly, and was agreeably surprised to find that it was nothing more than the heading of a simple notification from Mr. Weaver, that any person found killing or maiming the cattle upon that gentleman's <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>On arriving at the San Joachin, I was somewhat puzzled as to how I should cross it.  Seeing an American on the opposite bank, with a large waggon and a couple of yokes of oxen, I shouted out to him to inquire the direction of the bar.  He told me to keep to the right, and make towards a certain point which he indicated.  Following his instructions, I dashed in, and had got safely half <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>After proceeding for some time, I came to a spot on which several smoking logs gave evidence of a recent encampment, and here I resolved to pass the night.  It was at a little distance from the route, surrounded by woods, and affording at intervals glimpses of a vast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I remained seated over the fire for several hours, buried in my own reflections, in which the folly of travelling alone in these wild regions occupied a prominent place.  It must have been about nine o'clock at night, when I suddenly heard my horse snort, and plunge violently, as if frightened.  Starting to my feet, I ran to the spot where he was secured, and discovered that the lasso had entirely disappeared, I knew not by what agency, and that he had been left at liberty to roam about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>But it was by no means an easy task to calm my mind under the circumstances.  Alone, fatigued, and indifferently supplied with provisions, it seemed to me that I must inevitably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:perish on the road if reduced to the necessity of travelling the remainder of the way on foot.  Unable to control the miserable reflections that the apparent hopelessness of my position was continually suggesting to my mind, I at length resolved to try and compose myself to sleep; so, putting down my fire sufficiently to prevent its attracting attention, and wrapping myself up in my blanket, I fell into an uneasy and fitful sort of slumber, which could neither be called sleeping nor waking.  In the morning I was on foot at break of day.  Ascending every eminence in the neighbourhood from which a view of the surrounding plain could be obtained, I strained my eyes in all directions, to endeavour to catch a glimpse of my stray steed.  Not a single living thing was visible within the vast range which the eye could compass.  The wild troops of horses that I had seen the previous evening disporting on the plain had disappeared; and the only conclusion at which I could arrive, was that they had seduced away my steed.  Resolved, however, to leave no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I here found three men seated before an excellent breakfast of coffee and fritters.  The moment I entered, one of them inquired if I was disposed to part with the bit and bridle I held in my hand.  I replied that, having lost my horse in some mysterious manner the previous night, I had called in, thinking that they might be able to give me some clue to his recovery, and not with a view to bartering the articles I had with me.  They assured me they had seen nothing of the animal, and that, from the circumstances I had related to them, it was far from probable that I should succeed in finding him.  I took my departure, stating that, should such be the case, I should be glad to dispose of the articles they wished for, with this condition, that they should also purchase my saddle, spurs, and everything else I could spare, to which they returned a ready assent.</P>
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121.sgm:<P>Encamped amongst some bushes within a short distance of the road, I again fell in with the party of Mr. Dean.  Notwithstanding the unfavourable prepossessions I had formed of this man, I still confided sufficiently in the generosity of the American character, to fancy that a countryman placed in the distressing circumstances in which I then found myself, might have some claims on his sympathies.  I therefore sought him out, and found him at a little distance from the encampment, in the act of driving in his oxen.  Addressing him politely, I explained to him the dilemma in which I was placed, and begged of him to allow me to put my saddle, bridle, bit, and spurs on one of his waggons, as I wanted them taken to Monterey, adding, that I would cheerfully pay a reasonable sum for the accommodation.  The fellow looked at me for a few moments with a stare of stupid suspicion, and then turned on his heel, without giving me any answer.  I was so irritated by the rudeness of his conduct, that I felt very much disposed to knock him down; but, recollecting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I disposed of all the articles I have mentioned for a couple of ounces of gold, although, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I had compassed about seven or eight miles, when, to my great surprise, I beheld my truant steed looking across the route, as if waiting in expectation of my coming up.  Few circumstances that have ever befallen me have filled my heart with greater joy than this incident, for I was broken down with fatigue, and hopeless and desponding in the extreme.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>E2</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:Placing my knapsack at the foot of a large tree, that served me as a landmark, I looked over its contents, in the hope of finding something that might answer the purpose of a lasso.  The only article, however, that I could find, was a bed-tick, a portion of which I tore into six strips, tying each pair together, so as to increase their length.  The short strips, thus united, formed three long ones, which I twisted separately, till I thought they were sufficiently strong.  Then plaiting them together, I had a long rope, which, though clumsy enough, promised to serve until such time as I could obtain something more durable.  Approaching the animal slowly and with great caution, so that I might not scare him away, I succeeded in slipping a running noose over his head, and effectually securing him.  I then tied the rope round his nose in regular Californian style, by way of a bridle, and, securing my knapsack on his back by means of some more strips, torn from my invaluable bed-tick, I jumped into my seat, and proceeded on my way with a lighter and more cheerful heart.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I must not weary the attention of my readers by recapitulating all the details of my journey back to Monterey.  They have doubtless already formed a tolerably correct idea of the annoyances and difficulties presented at this time to the adventurous traveller, by the peculiar nature of the country.  I fear that, as it is, I have been rather prolix, owing to the anxiety I feel to expose the realities of this rugged road to fortune, and to disabuse the minds of emigrants of the illusions with which the glowing accounts published in the newspapers has naturally filled them.  It may be said that my case is an exceptional one; that I did not give mining a fair trial; and that I could not reasonably have expected to succeed.  But such is not strictly the fact: many a hardy, resolute man, led away by cupidity, or by the delusive representations of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>Keeping Dean's waggons always in view, and moving at the rate of about twelve miles a day, I arrived in a few days at Livermore's Farm, where I encamped under a large tree, a little in advance of the Yankee.  Nothing could be more miserable than the night I spent here, wood being as scarce as before, and the weather bitterly cold.  I started early next morning, and, on arriving at the <HI REND="italics">correl</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, Stevenson," said I; "I certainly had some difficulty in recognising you under this disguise.  Surely, you are not going home already."</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RANCHE IN UPPER CALIFORNIA.</P>
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121.sgm:<P>"Yes, but we are though," was the reply.  "We have had a regular sickening of it.  We ran out our provisions, and did not make enough by digging to pay our expenses.  If we are never to make our fortunes but at the expense of such hard labour, we must be contented to jog on in the old way, and earn an honest crust in some more Christian-like occupation."</P>
121.sgm:<P>I found that these poor fellows had not succeeded half as well as myself, and I resolved to assist them homeward by sharing with them my little stock of provisions and carrying their blankets, with which they seemed to be very much encumbered.  They could not prevail upon the Indian to sell them a drop of milk; so, swearing at him lustily, they slaked their thirst in the adjoining stream, and we proceeded on our route.</P>
121.sgm:<P>As we went along, Stevenson related to me some amusing incidents that had occurred to him on his way to the mines.  One evening, at the very farm we had just left, he and several other volunteers had met their quondam <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"I was determined," said Stevenson, "to be as rude to him as possible, for I hate him from the very bottom of my heart; so I sat down to supper, without ever washing my hands or taking off my `sou'-wester;' but the captain seemed determined not to take any notice of anything we might say or do, for he felt that he was in awkward hands, and had best keep quiet.  He must have been devilishly annoyed though, for he is so very particular, and so confoundedly aristocratic.  When he lay down on the floor in his <HI REND="italics">serapa</HI>
121.sgm:, I stretched myself alongside of him, and snored and snorted at such a rate, that I'll be bound he had very little sleep.  He was going to the mines, but turned back, as I heard, from a very natural apprehension that had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"What sort of business was he engaged in up there?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Shortly after the volunteers were disbanded, he bought up a large quantity of sailors' clothing and Government stores that had been condemned as unfit for use, and conveyed them to Pueblo; but I don't think he made much on the lot, for they were all sold by auction.  But, if it's a fact that the devil takes care of his own, `Black Jack' is sure to make money somehow or other."</P>
121.sgm:<P>When we reached San Jose&acute;, determined to have a comfortable supper, if possible, and a good supply of provender for my horse, we entered a trading store in the mission, which was kept by a Yankee; and learning from him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Between the two front doors of the store was a table, around which were seated several Americans and Spaniards playing at <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:, and staking various sums, from twenty-five cents to four and five ounces of gold, upon a card.  I could gather from their conversation that none of them had gone to bed the previous night, and that it was probable they would not quit playing until the banker, or those betting against him, had "burst."<ANCHOR ID="n19-1">*</ANCHOR>
121.sgm: But the bank was large, and the dealer evidently no novice; so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-1">A cant term in use amongst the Yankee gamblers.</NOTE>
121.sgm:<P>Feeling but little interested in the game, I strolled out into the courtyard to see how my horse had been provided for, when I was agreeably surprised at finding assembled there a group of fresh-looking Yankee girls, chatting and jesting together.  They must have come across the mountains, and seemed to have been well taken care of on the route.  Having seen my horse fed, I re-entered the store, and was shown into a lofty apartment, where supper had been laid.  There was plenty of tea, bread, a few cakes, and a large piece of roast pork, and, to give a greater zest to the repast, one of the merry girls that we had seen presided on the occasion.  The viands with which the table was laid out disappeared rapidly under the influence of appetites sharpened by the irregularities of our previous habits; and, although pork in any form had always been abhorrent to me, it would have puzzled the most acute observer to have detected in my countenance or operations the slightest trace of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Twixt the cup and the lip," ejaculated Stevenson, with a longing eye after the teathings, as they were carried off.  "A man ought to have the worth of his money, though Venus herself were to make up the deficiency with her smiles; a dollar and a half is too much to pay for a supper like that."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"What!" said I, in amazement, "is it possible that you are not satisfied yet?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Satisfied!" he exclaimed; "I feel for all the world like an empty house, out of which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Our bed that night was unusually comfortable.  Stretching ourselves upon some wellshaken, luxurious straw in the stable, where my horse had been placed, we enjoyed a delicious night's repose, to appreciate the sweets of which, obtained as it was on a couch which would be disdained by the lowest menial in our own country, one must have passed through the scenes which had brought us to the conclusion that the softness of the down bed is, after all, relative enjoyment.</P>
121.sgm:<P>On asking for my bill after breakfast in the morning, I found that I had to pay five dollars, and my companions three each, for the few hours we had remained in the house.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The accommodations in Pueblo are far superior.  On reaching that town, we went to a boarding-house, kept in the regular Yankee style by an Irishman named Brannan.  It was evening when we got there, and we found assembled round an excellent fire a group of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The table kept here was as good and abundant as men long inured to scanty and indifferent fare could desire.  My poor steed, however, did not come off quite so well, as it was exceedingly difficult to procure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>During the last twelve miles of our journey to Monterey, we were subjected to the pelting of a violent storm of rain, and reached the town thoroughly drenched to the skin.  I thanked my stars that I was just in time to escape the horrors of the winter, in the desolate solitudes through which I had just passed, and resolved to keep myself close and comfortable until the following spring.</P>
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121.sgm:<P>Directly opposite Abrigo's billiard-rooms, I observed a coffee-house that had been opened since my last visit to the town; and, attracted by its appearance, I entered, to obtain some supper.  Fearing the effects of cold from the wetting I had just received, I asked for a glass of brandy.  The waiter informed me that there was none in the town.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Let me have a beef-steak and some coffee, then," said I, passing on into a small room, which was so crowded that I could hardly find a place.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Where is the milk?"  I inquired, when my cup had been filled.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The cow was killed yesterday, sir, and there's not a drop to be had in the town."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The devil there's not!  What have you got here? nothing but biscuit?  Can't you get me some fresh bread?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I'm sorry to say I can't, sir.  The baker hasn't returned from the mines."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Have you no butter?--these hard biscuits require something to make them go down."  (I was getting dainty!)</P>
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121.sgm:<P>"They don't bring us any more butter from the country, sir.  The last we had was used up a couple of weeks ago, and we can't get a further supply for love or money."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"What, in the name of wonder, have you, then?  You don't expect me to eat the table, I suppose?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, dear no!  Here's the beef-steak, sir;" and, going to the door, he relieved a grinning nigger of the smoking dish, and slapped it down on the table with emphasis, in order to convince me that the house could still sustain its credit.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"You seem to be on the verge of starvation here, my friend," observed I.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"We have the best supply of any house in the town, sir; but the population has been reduced to great distress, and has sometimes to go whole weeks without beef.  The <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
121.sgm: won't drive in the cattle, and there is no regular butcher in the place; so that, if we didn't kill for ourselves, I don't know what we should do.  But we'll have some beans to-morrow, and perhaps a few potatoes; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>Tranquillized by the prospect, although somewhat distant, of <HI REND="italics">beans and potatoes</HI>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>Accommodation for man and beast--The tinman's rise in the world--Relative advantages of San Francisco and Monterey--Future prospects of California--A bad exchange--Jemmy Cullen, the Irish Blacksmith--Might versus right--A black diamond of the first water--Hector Moncrieff's catastrophe.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Upon a gentle declivity, at the rear of the town, stood a log house, consisting of several upper and lower rooms, which had been recently built by a Yankee, but which had been deserted by him as soon as built, under the influence of the general mania which attracted every one to the mines.  Ascertaining the name of the person in whose charge it had been left, I hired one of the rooms from him; but it was like hiring the whole house at a nominal rent, as I had it all to myself.  I took up my residence there the same night, and, on entering, found that there was no sort of bolt or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>On arising in the morning, my first care was to go down to the livery-stable, where I had left my horse at the moderate charge of a dollar and a half a day.  On asking to see him, I was far from satisfied at what I beheld.  The poor animal had not a mouthful of hay or corn before him, and I very much question if any had been given him.  Working at a bench, at the further end of the stable, was a carpenter, whom I immediately recognised as having served in the volunteers.  The floor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>"How do they feed the horses here?"  I inquired of the carpenter; "they don't seem to give them any thing to eat."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh yes, they do," replied Chips; "they have their three feeds a day riglar--three wisps of hay, and a promise of oats, which accounts for all the horses being so fat in these here parts.  There isn't a bit of corn or grass to be had anywhere else in the town, so that the tinman can lay it on as thick as he pleases."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"And, pray, who is the tinman?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The chap that owns these stables, and that large block there, and the store in front.  I thought every body knew him.  He came here a few years ago--a poor, ragged younker, and took to making tin cups and saucepans to earn a living.  Well, you see he lived very close for three or four years, grudging himself the smallest comfort, until he scraped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>"What are you now doing for him?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"He's fitting up his house for an hotel and baths, an' I'm doing all the joining work for him.  He's always a speculatin'; but I guess he's a little out of his recknin' this time, for San Francisco is going to be the place for business."</P>
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121.sgm:<P>Although concurring with my friend the carpenter in his view of the relative superiority of San Francisco, as a field for speculation, I did not altogether agree with him that the prospects of Monterey were to be despised.  An immense number of log and plank houses had been erected since my last visit, and the town presented all the evidences of a place likely to increase rapidly in importance.  It will form excellent winter quarters for the miners, provided the townspeople have the good sense to take efficient measures for the supply of the town with provisions, which, I presume, for their own sakes, these indolent gentry will do.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I wish I could as readily bring myself to the conviction that the general thirst for the acquisition of gold, and apparent superabundance of the precious metals, are likely to prove of general benefit to the country.  The only true and inexhaustible sources of a nation's wealth are, in my opinion, its agricultural and commercial capabilities, and where those natural means are so utterly neglected, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>On my way to the coffee-house, I revolved in my mind the expediency of disposing of my horse, and arrived at the conclusion that to keep him any longer, under the circumstances, would be utter folly.  It would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In the mean time, Stevenson and his family <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:moved into the house in which I now resided, and one evening, desirous of ascertaining the qualities of my new purchase, I examined it in my room, and to my great annoyance found it completely spoiled.  One of the hammers would not move, but the other went off with a loud report, the shot entering the ceiling, and knocking down a quantity of plaster.  Mrs. Stevenson screamed, the children joined in a general chorus, and for the moment I thought the house had come down about our ears.  I never could have imagined that my friend would have been imprudent enough to leave it charged; and I had reason to be thankful that some more serious accident had not occurred to his family, from his culpable negligence.  Disgusted with my bargain, I resolved to dispose of it, and offered it to one of Fremont's men, who was in want of a gun.  Examining the piece with the air of a connoisseur, he informed me that the person who had sold it me had taken me in, and that it was not worth a cent.  Determined, however, not to abandon my purchase thus lightly, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:I took it down to Jemmy Cullen, an Irish blacksmith, and the only competent mechanic in the place, to repair.  Jemmy said he could put it in <HI REND="italics">good killing order</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"I found," said he, "that the scoundrel, instead of putting it in order, as he had undertaken, only made it ten times worse.  I had told him to put new dogs on the lock, instead of which, he files off the catch, that holds the trigger at half-cock, and hang me if the thing doesn't now go the full sweep!  But I wouldn't mind this, if the fellow had not given me so much impertience.  I merely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>We were by this time at Jemmy's shop, a low shanty close to the landing-place.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Mr. Cullen," said I, approaching the irascible Hibernian with cautious politeness, "my friend, Mr. Springer here, is desirous that I should look at his gun."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Don't come in her, you Yankee <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:blackguard," exclaimed Jemmy, flushing up on perceiving Springer about to enter the smithy; "I'll speak to Mr. R.--; but, by the living jingo, if you dare to show your face inside my door, I'll knock you into <HI REND="italics">smithereens</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, certainly," said I; "it seems to me in excellent <HI REND="italics">killing</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Ay," said Springer, who had remained listening outside, "that's the question; why didn't you put in new dogs, as you promised?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Me promoise! by jabers, if I hear another word of your ugly mouth, I'll break every bone in your mane, dirty little body!  Ye may take the gun, or lave it, just as it suits you.  Thank God, I'm purty independent, and don't want to have any dalins whatsomever with poor people."</P>
121.sgm:<P>Springer, glad to get out of the hands of the irritable Vulcan, paid down the amount <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>This incident, trivial as it is, is highly illustrative of the then state of the country.  In fact, there was nothing like law or justice in Monterey; and I have known this very individual, (Cullen) when threatened with arrest by the Alcalde, send a message to the effect that he would blow out the brains of the first person who attempted to enter his shop for the purpose.  The result was, that he remained perfectly undisturbed in his tenement.  The fellow had already realized a small fortune by the mines, being the only mechanic in his line in the town, and readily obtaining his own prices for everything he manufactured.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The winter in Monterey is felt very severely by the inhabitants.  The rain rushing down the hills that overhang the town, and flowing in torrents through its streets, renders walking out of doors exceedingly disagreeable, if not altogether impossible.  At night, when going home, one experiences countless difficulties and dangers, for there is not a solitary lamp to guide the pedestrian on his way; and if he should escape falling into a well, he is certain to find himself up to his knees in some of the gullies or streams that meet him in every direction.  Those who can do it endeavour to remain at home at this season, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:I had no home; and every night, as I left the coffee-house, after supper, I was generally drenched to the skin before I reached my <HI REND="italics">casa</HI>
121.sgm:<P>The news had reached us some time before that several boats' crews had deserted from the American vessels of war, notwithstanding the severe precautions adopted by the Commodore to prevent it.  One evening, a runaway negro rode into the yard at the rear of the house where I slept, and, fastening his horse to a stake in the fence, entered the room <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, Hector," said he, "how have you been getting on?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh," replied our sable visitor, "I done fust rate.  You heerd, I s'pose, dat after I leabe dis'ere place I go right up to Macalamo diggins.  Dere I dig a tremendious sight o' goold in berry few days. How much you tink I make now--eh?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I'm sure I can't tell."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Jist guess."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, somewhere about twenty ounces."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Haw! haw! twenty ounces!  What a clebber chap you be!  What tink you ob four tousan' dollars, now--eh?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Four thousand dollars!" ejaculated Stevenson, in amazement.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Four thousand dollars!" echoed his wife, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Why, this takes the shine out of them all," said Stevenson; "but you were born lucky, Hector.  Had I done what you did, in running away from the Southampton, and carrying off one of her<HSEP>."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Hush!  Massa Stevenson," interrupted the black, wriggling uneasily on his seat, and casting anxious glances around him; "de less we say about dat de better."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"You need not be alarmed, my good fellow; we are all friends here.  I was only going to say, that if I had been in your place, I would have been kicking my heels in irons, and doing penance for my sins on bread and water, instead of looking sleek and hearty, and having lots of tin to spend.  There is truth in the proverb, that luck is better than brains," added he, bitterly.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Ay, ay; dere's someting in luck.  But you ain't heerd all."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Let us have the rest, then, Hector; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"De most astonishingest piece of de bisness are a comin'," continued the nigger.  "I war climbin' up a hill, one moonshiny night, to git him a little more firewood, an' a lookin' about for sticks, I see someting a shinin' in de grass.  I make a grab at him, tinkin' it war a big lump ob goold.  Whenebber I feeled him, him like a stone; and whenebber I looked at him, I couldn't tell what the divil he war.  Well, I fetch him back to the camp, an' I keep him till I get to Pibblo, [Pueblo] where I show him to Captin Demmick; an' what you tink he told me him war?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, I can't tell.  What was it?" said Stevenson.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Good gracious! what was it?" echoed his helpmate, in growing excitement.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"A dimond ob de fust water," replied Hector, grandly.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Is it possible!" exclaimed my friend and his wife, in chorus.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, it ain't no less," resumed the negro.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"So, sis I, `Hector, my boy, you done wid hard work, now: haw! haw!  You go into someting large in de spek'lation line.  Den you do fust rate in your unnertakins; you send for de little gal you leabe a weepin' out her eyes arter you in New York city, an' make her honest woman.'  Soon arter, I meet a Frenchman, a capital good cook, I can tell you, an' him an' me agree to go into de hotel line togedder.  We take a big place, to make an eating-house an' liquor store, an' I come down here to buy de stock of liquors an' provisions."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, I am heartily glad of your good fortune," said my friend; "but you had better keep a sharp look-out, Hector, or you'll get nabbed, and have no chance of enjoying your money."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, dere be no danger ob dat.  I so disguised, dat I meet several ob de officers about de town, an' debbil a bit if dey know me.  Haw! haw!"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Do, now, be cautious, Hector," said Mrs. Stevenson; "for it would be a pity that you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The black now rose, and bade us good night.  He had hardly been gone two minutes, when he returned in a great fright.  His horse had been stolen.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Stevenson and he went out together, and having searched the town in every direction, at last found the animal standing at the door of a house in the suburbs, the saddle having been removed from his back.  To their peremptory demands for the restoration of both, the Spaniard who had carried them off invariably made use of the ever ready reply, " <HI REND="italics">No intiende, Sen&tilde;or</HI>
121.sgm:<P>A few days afterwards, as I was sipping a cup of coffee in Piscaro's billiard-rooms, opposite the quartel, I detected the sable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<HI REND="italics">millionaire</HI>
121.sgm:<P>One evening, shortly after my return to Monterey, I took it into my head to go to a fandango.  These parties were numerous during the winter, but usually ended in a fight between the Spaniards and the Americans.  Accordingly, on entering the ball-room, I found a motley crowd of persons assembled, amongst whom were several well-dressed females and young men, both Yankee and Californian, and a still greater number of boisterous sailors.  Most of them were dancing with great spirit.  Two of the young men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GOING TO A FANDANGO.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>During our stay in the lower country, three females, with their <HI REND="italics">chaperon</HI>
121.sgm:, arrived at San Jose&acute; from Mazatlan, and took up their residence in a large bamboo-house on the outskirts of the town.  The names by which they were known were Augustina, Warner, Pancho, and Jack Scott.  All of them were of Spanish descent.  Augustina being a very beautiful girl, Pancho a very fascinating one in manner, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Cuidado</HI>
121.sgm:!" said she; "what por you no carry a <HI REND="italics">cuchillo</HI>
121.sgm:<P>The sergeant was unarmed, but being a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The expression made use of by Pancho became quite a familiar one throughout the garrison, and never afterwards did we caution each other in any other terms than " <HI REND="italics">Cuidado</HI>
121.sgm: por yourself; what por you no carry a <HI REND="italics">cuchillo</HI>
121.sgm:?" which, being given in the <HI REND="italics">nai&uml;ve</HI>
121.sgm:<P>Inquiring why one of these females went by the <HI REND="italics">sobriquet</HI>
121.sgm: of Jack Scott, I was informed that that person was her great favourite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:amongst the <HI REND="italics">Americanos</HI>
121.sgm:.  Jack Scott was her <HI REND="italics">beau ideal</HI>
121.sgm:<P>These four females had come up with the refugees on board the vessels of war from Lower California.</P>
121.sgm:<P>As soon as the dance was over, I approached Augustina, and said--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Quiere usted fumar, caballero</HI>
121.sgm:<P>I thought this would have disconcerted her, but she took the cigar, and smoked it with the <HI REND="italics">sang froid</HI>
121.sgm: of a Dutchman.  Well, said I, if that won't do, I will try another experiment; and accordingly, after a few words of conversation on general subjects, asked her if she would have <HI REND="italics">un vaso de aguardiente</HI>
121.sgm:<P>One of the volunteers, to whom I mentioned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:the fact of these girls being in the room in disguise, proposed that we should go to the residence of old Maraquita, another of the women from the lower country, with whom we were acquainted, and obtain from her the loan of some female dresses, so as to carry out the joke.  This we were accordingly about to do, when a couple of well-dressed gamblers and three of the sailors, getting a hint of our project, resolved to share in the fun, and followed us pretty closely.  My companion and I got into Maraquita's house, and had just borrowed a couple of dresses, when the party was heard outside demanding admittance.  But Donna Matilda, the old lady's eldest daughter, had locked the door, and refused to give them admittance.  The sailors burst in the door, smashing the lock to pieces, and we thereon declared that we would not return to the fandango.  The two gamblers reproaching these men for their conduct, a general "rough and tumble" fight ensued in the street, which nearly proved fatal, as one of the sailors drew a loaded pistol, and was with difficulty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>This practice of the women disguising themselves in male attire is not by any means confined to females of easy character.  On several occasions, I detected married Spanish women of unblemished reputation dressed in male costume at these fandangos, and was amused to observe the jealous watchfulness with which they regarded their husbands.  One evening, Lieutenant Y--and I being at one of these boisterous <HI REND="italics">re&acute;unions</HI>
121.sgm:<P>I have thought it advisable to introduce <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>Horse-stealing--An execution--A lucky escape--Penal laws of Mexico--Gambling at Monterey--"The California" steamer and her passengers--Nice pickings for speculators--The gambling-fever at its climax--Trading with a vengeance--The mysterious dozen--Sign-painting more curious than profitable--Resolution to repair to San Francisco--The death-bed of a murderer--His orphan--Mr. Graham and "The Revolution of 1836"--The usual reward of patriotism--The long-expected vessel--Her captain and crew--The voyage--Arrival at San Francisco.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Towards the close of the winter, an event occurred which threw the whole population into a state of great excitement.  The circumstances were these:--</P>
121.sgm:<P>A notorious horse-stealer, a semi-Indian, having committed several remarkably daring robberies, was at last apprehended, found guilty by a jury composed chiefly of his own countrymen, and sentenced by the Alcalde--according to the laws of Mexico--to be hanged.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The case was argued <HI REND="italics">pro</HI>
121.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">con</HI>
121.sgm:, with considerable eloquence and force.  The infliction of the extreme penalty was denounced by the speakers of the opposition, as being, in the first place, contrary to the spirit of a humane system of legislation; secondly, in contradiction with the merciful principles inculcated by the Christian religion; and lastly as too severe a punishment for the offence.  The speakers on the other side urged that a severe example was absolutely necessary to check crime in the then state of California; for if an undue indulgence were shown to men who committed excesses of this nature, there would result--in the absence of a settled government, of police, of prisons, of all order, in a country <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>These arguments, backed by several allusions to the custom of appealing to Lynch law, in places where no regularly-constituted tribunals existed, produced a sensation adverse to the object of the meeting.  But the opposition party, changing their tactics, insisted that the trial was an illegal one; as two or three persons on the jury were known to entertain hostile feelings towards the prisoner, having at various times been injured by him.  One of these persons, moreover, had been heard to express a desire of being revenged upon the criminal; and these circumstances, it was urged, were sufficient--even according <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The love of fair play carried the day, after a protracted and stormy discussion, which terminated by the adoption of an appeal to Governor Mason, soliciting him to order a postponement of the execution.  As this had been arranged to take place on the following morning, a deputation was appointed to wait upon the Governor, who, after considerable delay and difficulty, replied, that he could not interfere with the Alcalde in the performance of his duty; but if he chose to accede to the request of the deputation, he (the Governor) had no objection.  Accordingly, the deputation proceeded to the Alcalde; but he had gone into the country for the day; most likely, to evade the importunities of the American party.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Violence was now generally anticipated; and the prisoner was in consequence taken up to the fort on the hill, and the guard over him doubled.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Next morning, crowds of men, women, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>At length the culprit made his appearance, amidst the deepest silence, but also amidst intense excitement, though it appeared not on the surface.  He was a stout, heavy man, having his face and figure hidden under a dark cloth.  He mounted the steps of the scaffold with much apparent firmness, and the rope being passed over his head, and adjusted round his neck, the board was taken from beneath his feet, and he fell--to the ground!</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The rope had broken, and the culprit, instead of finding himself in another world, discovered himself standing in the midst of an anxious crowd of spectators, with the Alcalde close beside him.</P>
121.sgm:<P>There followed a great outcry for the "padre," who, in the person of a priest named Ramarez, made his appearance in the course of a few minutes, and proceeded to deliver himself of a most impressive homily, addressed to the astonished prisoner, whom I expected to see strung up again, as soon as a new rope should be forthcoming.  I was mistaken, however.  The accident--if such it was--is provided for by the Mexican law, and stands the culprit in lieu of a free pardon.  The horse-stealer, therefore, walked away; and, although black in the face, and swollen in the eyes and forehead, into which the blood had started, seemed as much surprised as pleased at his escape, as well he might be.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I never understood the particulars of this fortunate accident, but strongly suspected that the Alcalde, fearing the violence of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>There was an unusual amount of gambling carried on in Monterey during this winter; attributable, no doubt, to the superabundance of gold which had flowed in from the mines.  The presiding genius of this mania, at Abrigo's, was a Mr. C--, the most inveterate gamester of all the Americans in the country.  He was a highly amusing fellow, who won and lost his money in the most off-hand, spirited manner, appearing equally satisfied whether Fortune smiled or frowned upon him.  He proved, in consequence, an immense favourite with all.  He was one of the very best billiard-players I have ever met with, and was never so happy as when engaged in playing that game, or <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:.  His chief peculiarity, however, was an extraordinary propensity for swearing; his vocabulary of oaths comprising the very choicest selection--Yankee, English, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>One day, all the inhabitants of the town rushed together in a crowd to the port, to witness the arrival of a huge steamer which had appeared in the offing; the largest that had passed along this coast, and, as I understood, the first into the bargain.  The Californians gazed at it in silent wonderment, not at all able to comprehend how it could have been constructed of such a size; how it could be made to go without sails; where all the smoke it cast out of its huge funnel came from; and how the large fire in its inside did not burn the vessel up.</P>
121.sgm:<P>She was the California, the first of the new American line steamers; and, having cast anchor and landed her passengers, Abrigo's coffee-house presented, in the course of a few hours, such a scene as perhaps could not be witnessed in any other country but this, and that under the peculiar circumstances of its then position.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>As far as appearances went, a finer looking or a more respectable body of emigrants never stepped ashore from any vessel; but I venture to affirm there never landed at Monterey a shrewder or a "smarter" set, or their match at gambling, with all its accompanying vices.  At faro, <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:, indeed, at any game of cards, they appeared quite in their element; and the Spaniards, though sharp enough, were mere children in this respect, compared to them.  Several had brought roulette-tables, "sweatcloths," and dice, and banks were immediately established, on every available spot.  Even the billiard-tables were, for the time, diverted from their original use, and devoted to <HI REND="italics">rouge-et-noir</HI>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, and in the midst of the excitement of play, numerous other individuals from on board the vessel were endeavouring to acquire money by legitimate trading.  All sorts of articles were offered for sale at enormous prices.  Shoes, hats, baskets, bowie-knives, handkerchiefs, spades, shovels, picks, and crow-bars, biscuit and flour, cheese, and beef and pork, confectionary and spices, tobacco and snuff, and spirits and wine--in fact, every kind of merchandise seemed to have been landed in minute quantities, expressly to tantalize purchasers, to raise an extra demand, and consequently to augment prices.  One particularly shrewd fellow had a dozen of the commonest sort of bowie-knives, which he offered at the modest sum of five dollars each; and, having readily disposed of them, renewed the operation with another dozen, and another, and another, until he had realized a handsome sum.  But he never appeared with more than a dozen at a time, as his whole stock in trade; and, as he never made his appearance twice in the same place, nobody seemed the wiser, his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Another man greatly amused me by driving bargains for his wearing apparel; and I am afraid to say how many times he stripped and reappeared clad anew, to sell his garments again, before he was satisfied.  In a word, there was but one cry, but one all-absorbing thought--"Money, money, money!"</P>
121.sgm:<P>To add to the bustle of this bewildering scene, the rush to C--'s refreshment-store, established at the bar of the coffee-house, was perfectly appalling.  The <HI REND="italics">habitue&acute;s</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Pie!  Pie!  For God's sake, don't ask me for pie to-day!  The inhabitants of the town will, I hope, forget themselves to-day, and give the strangers a chance."</P>
121.sgm:<P>How far the keen-witted host forgot himself may be inferred from the fact, that in two days he cleared upwards of two thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>As an illustration of the spirit of gambling which prevailed, I may mention the case of one of the new-comers, the cook of the California, known by the name of "English Ned."  This man was a bold gamester, who would coolly stake his all on the cast of a die, the turn of a card, or the stroke of a cue.  The first day, he played at two American banks, and won eighteen hundred dollars; the next, he lost all, and in the evening returned on board with a dun at his heels for a couple of ounces of gold.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Some of these old gamesters frequently made enormous "hits," and as frequently sustained ruinous losses.  But I observed that they who really carried away the most, were sundry quiet-looking fellows, with sharp eyes, who watched the chances, betted enormously, but warily, upon a run of luck on any particular card or colour, and went away when they had won a sufficiency for that sitting.  Some, however, who knew that "keeping the bank" was a safe game, speculated in this manner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Another of the strangers whom I more particularly remarked, was a tall, fair-haired Yankee, who went by the name of John as a surname, being always called Mr. John.  He started one of the new Yankee gambling-banks, as I have reason to remember, having been tempted, by the force of the general example and of familiar associations, to try my chances at his table.  That day I won twenty-five dollars at <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>The California remained five days in the roadstead, during which time I ascertained that the emigrants--who were bound to San Francisco--were, the majority of them, professed gamblers from the Southern States, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>At this period, gold of the finest quality fetched only eleven dollars per ounce, so that I lost considerably in converting mine into coin.  The people expressed their anxious desire to see a United States' Mint established, but Congress moved but tardily in the consideration of Californian affairs; and, failing this very necessary protection, the miners were left entirely at the mercy of the grasping cupidity of the traders--a state of things which gave rise to much discontent.</P>
121.sgm:<P>As my means were now rapidly diminishing, I found myself obliged to turn my attention to some practical occupation, by pursuing which--in accordance with the spirit of activity that prevailed amongst the great mass of the people--I might hope to earn a livelihood.  Portrait-painting--in which I had attained some proficiency by years of study and practice--was out of the question, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:neither canvass nor properly prepared colours were obtainable in the country.  I therefore resolved to adopt a lower branch of the art, and endeavour to procure employment as a letterer and sign-painter, at which I had already tried my hand on my voyage out, and with no inconsiderable success.  With some difficulty I procured a small quantity of lamp-black, yellow ochre, vermillion, and burnt sienna, and painted a sign; the first picture-sign, probably, that the country had ever produced, and certainly the first which the Californians themselves had ever seen, judging from the impression it created.  It was sufficiently fanciful for its purpose, the centre consisting of an easel and a bust of Apollo, with a palette and pencils; the whole surrounded by a wreath of flowers; whilst the various branches of the art in which I considered that I excelled, were indicated by an abundance of lettering of different styles, arranged tastefully in appropriate places.  Crowds gathered about my sign, which they gazed at, wondered at, and laughed at; some of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>It did not make its appearance, however, for a considerable time, condemning me, by the delay, to a long and wearisome period of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>One day, on my way down to the familiar spot, as I was passing along the street leading to the house of a Mr. Larkins, I was called in to witness the dying agonies of a person who was said to have murdered his wife in the lower country.</P>
121.sgm:<P>His ghastly form, attenuated by disease, long-suffering, and mental disquietude, lay extended upon a wretched bed, his life-stream evidently fast ebbing away.  Beside it stood his daughter, an interesting child, of about ten years of age; she was offering him a cup, the contents of which he did not evince the slightest desire to taste.  The poor girl, nevertheless, pressed it upon him with the tenderness so peculiar to the female sex, even at this early age.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Now do, father, there's a dear," she said, in a soothing, coaxing tone of voice; "it will do you good, I'm sure it will."  And, as she uttered these words, her hot tears fell upon his pillow, and wetted his face.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The dying man opened his eyes, and stared fixedly at her a few seconds, then closed them again.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Come, father, dear, do try now," exclaimed the poor child once more, wiping away with the hand that was free the tears which had fallen on his cheek, whilst she strove to check her sobs.  But perceiving that he stirred not, she turned round to me, and said, "Oh, sir, I am afraid father's very ill, this time.  He's never been so bad before."</P>
121.sgm:<P>I could not witness this affecting scene unmoved; and, as I stood gazing upon it, and watching the gentle affection with which this poor child ministered to the wants of her mother's murderer, I wondered whether, in the lucid intervals of that man's long agony, his child's love had awakened his conscience to repentance for his fearful crime, or to an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:appreciation of the miseries and the opprobrium which it had entailed upon her.  I foresaw for her--for her, the murderer's daughter--a life of neglect, disgrace, and shame.  No loveliness of form or of feature, no chastity of conduct, no mental excellence, would remove the brand of crime from her name.  A heartless and undiscriminating world would point the finger of Scorn at her as she passed on her way, and render her the victim of her parent's crimes.  Oh, how I did pity that poor innocent girl, whose very unconsciousness of the anguish in store for her but rendered her the more an object of commiseration!  Yet, as I reflected on her forlorn condition, I could not renounce faith in an all-protecting Providence, which alone, I felt, could raise up for this little girl some kind Christian friend to provide for her in this wild country, and to preserve her, amongst so many lawless beings, from the vices and crimes incidental to such an association.  I saw that she expected me to reply to her remark respecting her father's danger; for her eyes were full of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"I am afraid he is, my poor child," I said.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, sir, he <HI REND="italics">has</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Father, father," she repeated, "do look at me, there's a dear father."</P>
121.sgm:<P>The murderer suddenly cast his right arm up with convulsive force; then, clenching his fist, and letting his hand fall again on the coverlet, he grasped it as if he would tear it into shreds.  The agony lasted but a moment or two, however; for he again opened his eyes, and stared vacantly at his daughter, but without making any sign of recognition.  He did not close them again; and, although they glared with an almost fierce brightness for a few seconds, it was with the glassy brilliancy of dissolution; and when it had faded away, he was dead.  He had expired without a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>No one spoke, for we knew how it was, and felt overawed in the presence of Death.  The girl first broke silence.</P>
121.sgm:<P>She remained, with her eyes riveted upon her father's face, and holding the cup which she had offered him.  Perceiving that he did not move, and that a strange and incomprehensible change had taken place, she bent down to him quickly, and laid her cheek against his--for the bed was a very low one--then placed her hand on his breast, which was bared.  She now understood the great change that had taken place in him; and never shall I forget the agonizing sob that burst from her, as, letting the cup fall on the floor, she sank down by his side, half kneeling, half crouching, and exclaimed:</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, my God!  He's dead!  And I am quite alone!"</P>
121.sgm:<P>It was indeed a piteous spectacle to witness the deep anguish of that poor orphan; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>During the protracted stay I was obliged to make in the town, I enjoyed frequent opportunities of cultivating the acquaintance of Mr. Graham, a Tennessean hunter and back-woodsman, who, by his bravery and characteristic love of independence, has inscribed his name in the history of California.  Several years previously, he had come over the Rocky Mountains, and was one of the oldest American settlers in the country.  Age, as Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>At that period, General Echuandra was Commandant-General of the country.  He was a man, it seems, of a most grasping and mercenary disposition, committing the grossest peculations, and defrauding the revenues and the people to a ruinous extent.  No wonder, then, that great discontent prevailed, and that public indignation should be aroused, and be ready to burst forth on the very first occasion.  The crisis at length arrived.  A vessel having just come into the roadstead of Monterey, the General--as was his practice--placed a guard on board.  To this proceeding the officers of the vessel objected, and deputed a clerk, one Juan Baptise Alvarado by name, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:wait upon the Commandant, and to inform him that they regarded it as an insult and an imputation on their probity, inasmuch as it was implying that they sought to evade the payment of duties.  The General ordered the envoy to be put in irons; but he contrived to effect his escape, and, starting off to Graham, who resided at San Juan, obtained a promise of assistance in carrying out a plan he had conceived, of declaring the country independent of Mexico.  A meeting of all the foreigners was accordingly held, at the head of whom Mr. Graham placed himself; and, the project meeting with general approbation, the party marched boldly and suddenly upon Monterey, took the fort, drove out the Commandant and his partisans, declaring Alvarado Governor in his stead, and California independent.  But this state of things did not continue long, for the new Governor--who doubtless had sought only his own aggrandizement--was partly cajoled, partly frightened, by the central Government, into an act of adhesion to Mexico, and was thenceforward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>With the spring and its verdure came a brig into the harbour of Monterey, bound for San Francisco.  I resisted the entreaties of a large party of volunteers who were about to set out for the mines, and wished me to join them; for my determination was--if I went gold-hunting again--to try my fortune in some of the upper "diggins," which I could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>But surely never was there such a brig, nor such a crew.  She belonged to some Monterey people, and had been detained on her voyage home.  If, when she had got safely back to this port, her owners had condemned her as unseaworthy, they would only have been doing their duty, and manifesting a due regard for life and property.  But I suppose they thought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:less of risk of this kind, than of the small fortune they might realize by employing her--crazy as she was--to run up and down the Sacramento river with freight and passengers, as long as her timbers held together.  As for her crew, they--with the exception of one man besides the captain--knew as little about the brig as she knew about them; and, only for the serious consequences likely to ensue from their ignorance, their mistakes would have been highly ludicrous, as they floundered about, handling ropes, the names of which were so many puzzles to them, and striving to execute orders which they could not by any possibility comprehend, in spite of the oaths that accompanied them.  On two or three occasions, we were in imminent danger of being lost, so literally were they at sea in everything relating to the working of the vessel.  The captain himself, by no means a pleasant-tempered man, even when he was supposed to be in a good humour, had enough to do, with his one seaman, to keep the ship in her course.  He was a rough, hard-featured old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I have often thought of that memorable voyage, and to this very hour wonder by what lucky combination of chances we succeeded in getting to San Francisco.  Considering all things, I should not have been more surprised had we made Cape Horn.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>Our entry into the Bay of San Francisco--The Strait--The Bay--Its beautiful situation--Description of the Bay--Pueblo and Suissoon Bays--Former insignificance of San Francisco--The discovery of the gold mines--The voice of Mammon--The change--The town of San Francisco as it appears from the Bay--The Island of Goats--Sacramento city--The route by water--Some particulars concerning Sacramento city--Ground-rents--The "red woods" of Pueblo--Their peculiarities.</P>
121.sgm:<P>From the magnificent descriptions I had heard of the celebrated Bay of San Francisco, I experienced no inconsiderable degree of disappointment when we entered the narrow gap in the coast-land which opens into its waters, and which did not appear to me to be more than a hundred feet in width.  This opening, as seen from the ocean, presents the complete appearance of a simple mountain-pass--abruptly cutting in two the continuous line of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Having passed through this gap, or I might <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Proceeding up the strait, we found the real or second entrance to the Bay barred by an enormous rock, which offers a capital site for a fort.  To the left of it, in an embrasure of the land, lay the flag-ship Ohio, which, seen from this distance, appeared like a miniature man-of-war, several others of lesser dimensions, but of the same character, being dotted about here and there, at convenient anchorages.  I learned that these vessels had taken up their position at this spot--although inconveniently distant from the town--with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Having passed this huge rock, which rises sheer out of the water to a considerable height, and may be some 60 or 100 feet in breadth, the Bay of San Francisco burst upon us in all its beauty; and, excited as my imagination had been by the numerous descriptions I had heard of it, I was unprepared for the magnificent scene which presented itself to my view, as our crazy vessel glided sluggishly over its placid waters.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Its first aspect is that of a long lake, lying embosomed between parallel ranges of mountains, in the midst of a country of Alpine character; but the eye, soon accustoming itself to dissect the beautiful landscape, perceives that the monotony of its glassy surface <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Immediately opposite the entrance to the Bay, and forming a back-ground of unsurpassed majesty of appearance, rises, at a few miles distant from the shore, a chain of mountains, which shoot aloft to an elevation of two thousand feet above the level of the water, and whose summits are crowned by a splendid forest-growth of ancient cypress, distinctly visible from the Pacific, and presenting a conspicuous landmark for vessels entering the Bay.  Towering behind these, again, like the master-sentinel of the golden regions which it overlooks, is the rugged peak of Mount Diablo, rearing its antediluvian, granite head, hoar with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The immediate shores of the Bay are known by the name of <HI REND="italics">contra costa</HI>
121.sgm:<P>A narrower examination of the Bay shows that it is divided by straits and projecting points, or small promontories, into three distinct bays, that of San Francisco being, of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The Suissoon is, moreover, connected with an expansion of water formed by the confluence of the Sacramento with the San Joachin, both of which enter the Bay of San Francisco in about the same latitude as the mouth of the Tagus at Lisbon; the valleys of the San Joachin and Sacramento forming their junction with the Bay by a delta of some twenty-five miles in length, divided into islands by deep channels, into the mouths of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>From this general, but, I believe, accurate description of this celebrated Bay, it will be perceived that, unlike the majority of bays, it is not a simple indentation of the coast, but a little Mediterranean in itself, having bold shores and a fertile country adjacent, and being connected with the ocean by a gate of rock, or a strait, of not more than one mile and a half at its greatest width; then suddenly opening out, as soon as it is past, into an expanse of between seventy and eighty miles, completely landlocked, with an average breadth of from ten to fifteen miles, the head of the Bay being distant from the sea nearly forty miles, at which point commences its connexion with the noble and beautiful valleys of the San Joachin and Sacramento.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I may add of it, that the water at the entrance and inside of it is of a depth sufficient to admit the largest vessels that were ever constructed, which can ride here in perfect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>At the time I speak of--although, but a short period before, its waters were comparatively unfrequented--I beheld its glistening surface crowded with vessels of all dimensions, and from various countries; so vast and important a change had the discovery of the golden treasures entombed in the remote and rugged ravines of the Sacramento and San Joachin, wrought for San Francisco Bay.  It seemed as if a century in its history had been anticipated by the stroke of some all-potent magician's wand, or by the power of some spell of irresistible force; and that, under their influence, it had become in a moment a centre of attraction to the living world.  For ages had those huge mountains held their vast riches undisturbed by man; for ages had the waters from their granite sides washed the valleys at their feet, leaving, in their hurried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:track to the sea, the glittering grains which they had pilfered in their course from the springs of wealth hidden in the heart of the rock; for ages had those grains glistened in the broad sunshine, or lain at the bottom of the clear torrents, looking upward towards the day; for ages had the wild Indians--the masters of this solitary region--wandered over hills and valleys, teeming with the riches worshipped by the nations of the East, and, unconscious of their treasures, continued to hunt the deer and the beasts of the plain and the forest, content to live only for the day: the Spaniard, too, and his descendants, greedy of gold, and relentless in its pursuit, whose foot-prints in the western world, from first to last, had left a bloody stain--even these had failed to plunge into the hidden mysteries of the golden valleys; and civilization seemed doomed to follow its slow course westward, till, in the lapse of ages more, the enterprise of man should overleap the Rocky Mountains and the range of everlasting snows, and unfurl the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>But suddenly--almost in a night, as it would seem--the silvery waters of the Bay are alive with fleets, spreading their white canvass to the breeze, as, laden with a living freight of anxious men, and with the produce of distant and civilized climes, they glide on their silent way towards the golden gates of this treasure-gorged region.  A voice has gone forth that here is to be found the idol which all men worship; and Mammon summons his followers to his shrine.  The summons peals like thunder through the gorges of the mountains, and spreads far and wide over the plains.  Quickly is the response taken up; and now it rings loud above the din of the thrift-seeking multitudes in the bustling cities of the Western World--startling Learning and Science from their deep reveries; Husbandry from its labours; plodding Industry from her peaceful occupations; awakening Ambition from its restless sleep; inspiring Commerce with freshened energies; arousing Speculation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Quick as the light which turns the darkness into day, the phantom-voice travels the wide world round, until once more it sweeps over the Bay from whence it issued.  All is bustle and confusion where once the stillness of nature reigned.  The golden valleys are alive with men, prostrate at the worship of their idol.  A city has sprung up in the desert.  The wilderness has budded and blossomed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The town of San Francisco is situated on the south side of the entrance to the Bay, from which it is distant about six miles, having opposite to it an island called Goat's Island, (Yerba Buena) on account of the number of these animals found upon it.  It is covered with abundance of grass and brushwood, and forms a conspicuous and picturesque object in the harbour, rising out of the centre of the clear waters, here and there deepened by the bold shadows of the surrounding hills.  The flow and ebb of the tide here are sufficiently strong to bring a vessel to the anchorage in front of the town, and to carry it outside without the aid of wind, or even against an unfavourable one.  San Francisco itself is about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The site of the town is in a sort of irregular valley, surrounded by the lofty hills I have already mentioned, and presents, from the water-side, a confused spectacle of innumerable houses, heterogeneous in form, substance, and arrangement.  I was not yet, however, to make more intimate acquaintance with it, for our vessel lay at a considerable distance from the landing-place, and our men were too anxious to go ashore, to wait until I could collect my luggage, and make the necessary preparations for accompanying them in the boat.</P>
121.sgm:<P>We had been boarded by a custom-house officer shortly after the anchor was cast, and I felt not a little pleased to recognise in him an old acquaintance.  He had also visited the mines, having gone thither from San Francisco; and I was indebted to him for much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:valuable information respecting the route to the "diggins" by water, which information I took note of at the time, as likely to be serviceable to me, in the event of my determining to return to them at the convenient season.  I have since learned that his intelligence was accurate.  As it so happened that my plans were not carried out as I had anticipated, it may not be out of place to mention here the particulars I learned respecting a city which has now gained a world-wide celebrity, and which is the grand halting-place for the northern, as Stocton is for the southern, mines.  Sacramento city is situated at the junction of the American Fork and Sacramento rivers, and is distant from San Francisco one hundred and thirty miles by water; the usual cabin-fare by vessel being twenty-five dollars, inclusive of provisions; the deck-passage, sixteen dollars, without them.  On leaving the Bay of San Francisco, the traveller passes through the Strait of Pueblo into the bay of the same name, and proceeding in a north-easterly direction, enters Suissoon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Landing is very difficult at Sacramento city, even at high water, there being no convenience for this purpose, except such as is afforded by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>At the period of which I am writing, Sacramento city might have numbered about four hundred dwellings, including stores; the large majority of these consisted of sheds--so little did they deserve the appellation of houses--constructed partly of wood, partly of canvass, amongst which might be counted half a dozen of good frame-boarded residences.  They seem to have been erected with some pretension to regularity, as they form streets, running parallel and at right angles with the river.  Most of them are trading establishments, about a dozen figuring as hotels, and a large proportion of the remainder being grog-shops; in fact, to speak more particularly, there is not a house <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SACRAMENTO CITY.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The principal store is kept by a Mormon, who, having arrived in the country and settled in it previous to the discovery of the mines, had already succeeded in amassing a large fortune.  The eating-houses--or hotels, as they are somewhat pompously called--do a most extensive business; for, as appetites less frequently fail than the supplies of provisions, there is ample opportunity for levying heavy contributions upon the hungry.  As a general rule, however, the charge for board and lodging is nearly the same as at San Francisco, though the accommodation is bad, to the last degree, none of these eating or lodging-houses containing any beds, the lodgers being obliged to stretch themselves on any available spot of ground, or convenient article of furniture.  The influx of strangers is so great, indeed, that, notwithstanding the rapidity with which these ephemeral dwellings are erected, and the innumerable tents of every form and size scattered in the suburbs, the population is far in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>But, although Sacramento city offers sq few comforts and attractions, and attempt has been made at magnificence in the erection of a handsome tent--a wall-tent, as it is commonly called--of a circular form, having perpendicular sides, and which is about thirty feet in diameter, by twenty-five in height, from the conical top of which floats a large red flag, inscribed with the words, "Miners' Exchange," in large letters.  Its use is admirably illustrative of the prevailing spirit, and of the marvellous shrewdness exhibited by speculators in taking advantage of it.  It is furnished within with six or eight large gambling-tables, each of which is let out at the nightly rental of twelve dollars.  They are usually crowded to inconvenience by persons who come to try their fortune, and who frequently lose their all at various games of chance, the principal being <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">rouge-et-noir</HI>
121.sgm:<P>This establishment was started by two individuals, one of them, a mere boy, who had made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Ground-rents range excessively high; and speculators in land, who were early in the field, and commanded capital, have been enabled to exact enormous sums from those who sought to establish themselves on particular spots.  Building-lots, measuring about 25 feet by 50, were worth 10,000 dollars, and extremely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In short, Sacramento city owes its growing importance entirely to the discovery of the gold mines, and to its admirable position as a starting-point to the upper ones.  It certainly is not a desirable dwelling-place at present, whatever it may eventually become, though it admirably serves its purpose, namely, to offer to the vast multitude of birds of passage that flock to this region a spot where they may find a temporary rest for the soles of their feet ere they migrate further north.  From hence, indeed, oxen and mule-teams are constantly travelling to all the "diggins," and every available mode of conveyance seems in request; so much so, that only lately they were charging carriage at the rate of one hundred dollars a hundred weight of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I may add, that the "red woods," which are situated to the north-west of Pueblo Bay, constitute a remarkable and an agreeable feature in the landscape.  They are of great extent, and, previously to the discovery of the gold mines, supplied the natives with the chief part of the timber they use.  But they were also notorious as the resort of robbers and deserters of every description, who here carried on their lawless practices, secure against pursuit, adding to their unlawful gains by the more honest recompense they received for sawing and felling timber.</P>
121.sgm:<P>This "red wood" is a species of cedar, and seems more abundant in these parts than any other kind of native wood I saw.  It possesses many singular properties, and amongst others, that of turning quite black when scoured, but, when polished and varnished, assuming the appearance of mahogany.  It is extremely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>Difficulties of landing--A <HI REND="italics">ruse de guerre</HI>
121.sgm:<P>Eagerly desirous as I was to escape from the confinement of the vessel, and to see the town, I beheld the boat and her crew depart with feelings of considerable mortification and disappointment.  We were moored far away from any other vessel, and from the landing-place, and at least three hours elapsed before I succeeded in attracting the attention of any of the boatmen.  At length two Kanakas, who had just returned from the shore to one of the traders, seemed to understand that I wanted them, though they made no effort to come <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Don't you want to buy anything?  I've got some clothes to sell.  Won't you have'em?  They're dog cheap."</P>
121.sgm:<P>The artifice succeeded, and they were very soon alongside our vessel; when I discovered the boat to be too small and too leaky to take my luggage and myself at the same time: I therefore determined to leave the former on board for the present; and, although the men seemed disappointed at losing an opportunity of striking a bargain for clothes, they readily undertook to convey me to the landing, which was about a quarter of a mile off, and for doing which they charged me the modest sum of two dollars and a half.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The landing-place appeared to have been constructed less for the convenience of foot-passengers, than to afford facilities for the disembarkation of luggage and goods from on board the vessels, for which purpose it stretches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>On landing, I had to clamber up a steep hill, on the top of which, and opposite to where I stood, was a large wooden house, two stories high, and scarcely half finished.  In the rear of this, rose another and a steeper hill, whose slopes were covered with a multiplicity of tents.  To my right, ran a sort of steep, or precipice, defended by sundry pieces of cannon, which commanded the entrance to the harbour.  I next came to the "Point," and, crossing it, found myself within the town.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The first objects that attracted my notice were several canvass houses, measuring from ten to forty feet square, some being grog-shops, others eating-establishments, and the larger set apart as warehouses, or places of storage.  The proprietors of the latter were making enormous sums by the accommodation their tents afforded to the hundreds of travellers who were arriving every day from different parts, and who, being extremely embarrassed as to what they should do with their luggage, were heartily glad to find any safe place to store it in, and content to pay for the convenience.  As I passed another half-completed wooden structure, I thought I would venture upon an inquiry, just by way of ascertaining whether I had any chance of procuring employment as a house-painter.  I was offered thirty-six dollars a-week; an offer I did not immediately accept, notwithstanding the favourable reception I met with.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The spectacle which the beach presented from a convenient opening, whence I could comprise the whole at a glance, was singularly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:interesting and curious.  A crowd of individuals, in motley garb, and of every variety of race, might be seen pressing eagerly upward towards the town, jostling and pushing one another, in their anxiety to be first, yet looking eagerly about them, as if to familiarize themselves at once with the country of their adoption.  Here were dandies from the United States and from France, picking their steps mincingly, as they strove to keep pace with the sturdy fellows who carried their luggage; their beaver hats, fashionable frock-coats, irreproachable and well-strapped pantaloons, exciting the derisive remarks of the spectators, the majority of them "old Californians," whose rough labour at the "diggins" had taught them to estimate such <HI REND="italics">niaiseries</HI>
121.sgm: at their proper value.  By their side stalked the stately and dignified Spaniard, covered with his broad-brimmed, low-crowned <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
121.sgm:, and gracefully enveloped in his ample <HI REND="italics">serapa</HI>
121.sgm:, set off by a bright scarlet sash.  He turns neither to the right nor to the left, nor heeds the crowd about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:him, but keeps on the even tenor of his way--though even he has occasionally to jump for it--presenting, in his demeanour and costume, a striking contrast to the more bustling activity of the Yankees, who are elbowing every one, in their anxiety to go a-head.  A lot of shopboys, too, mere lads, as spruce and neatly attired as though they had just stepped out of some fashionable emporium, mingle with the rest, and, as they enter the town, strike up the popular parody-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh, California!  That's the land for me!<LB>I'm bound for the Sacramento, with<LB>The wash-bowl on my knee."<LB></HI>
121.sgm:<P>And presently, their brother-adventurers, excited by hopes of the wildest kind, join vociferously in chorus, in the exuberance of their joy.</P>
121.sgm:<P>A group of Englishmen, muscular in form, and honest in feature, are chaffering with the keen-witted Yankee porters for the carriage of their luggage.  There is an air of dogged resolution about them, that plainly indicates they will not submit to what they evidently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Here come a number of Chilians and Peruvians, and a goodly number of natives from the Sandwich Islands.  A couple of Irishmen, too!  I know them by their vivacity, and by the odd trick they have of getting into every body's way; to say nothing of their broad, merry faces.  Their property is in common, it seems; for they have only one small pack between them.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Here come ten or a dozen plainly but comfortably dressed mechanics; hard-working looking men they seem, and just the sort of persons to make their way in a country where the artisan occupies his proper position, and where honest toil--and dishonest, too, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The human stream ceases not to flow from the vessels in the harbour; no sooner is one boat-load disposed of than another arrives, and so on, until the town is gorged with new-comers, who, after a few days' sojourn, to recruit their strength, after the fatigues of a long and irksome voyage, depart, and are seen no more for months; many, perhaps, never to return.  Very few of this vast multitude deserve the epithet of poor.  To get here at all requires money; and to maintain one's-self, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The majority of the emigrants are men occupying a respectable station in society; some are even distinguished in their calling: but the eager desire of making a fortune in a hurry has induced them to throw up good employments and comfortable homes; to leave friends, relatives, connexions, wife, children, and familiar associations, to embark their strength, intelligence, and activity, in this venture.  All is bustle where they have landed: boats going to and fro; rafts slowly discharging their cumbrous loads; porters anxiously and interestedly civil; all excited; all bent on gain: ships innumerable in the bay; mountains around; a clear, blue sky above; and the bright waters dancing in the sun, until they touch the horizon in the distance, blending their brightness with his golden track.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I walked on until I came up to a group of men, who, like myself, were looking on the busy scene before us with no small degree of interest.  I recognised amongst them two of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>An individual of this number, nevertheless, was compelled to remain longer than he anticipated; for, having returned to the mines, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The party had come down from the mines to make purchases, and to enjoy a little recreation.  They were admirable specimens of their class--hardy in appearance, and rough in demeanour; but shrewd, withal, and toil-enduring.  For the moment, their conversation turned upon the prospects of the newly-landed emigrants--for I should have stated that there were one or two arrivals in the harbour--and they were unsparing of their remarks upon such of the new-comers as by their dress, or any physical peculiarity, offered a fair target for their witticisms, which were not less pointed than coarse.</P>
121.sgm:<P>With regard to the town towards which all were pressing, they expressed an unanimous opinion.  It was the most wonderful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Some few years previously, San Francisco consisted of but some three or four wooden and <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>For a space of nearly two centuries, the degenerated Spanish race had held the whole country, never dreaming of its value, nor, in their sluggishness, deeming the improvement and development of its resources possible.  Though a people as eminently qualified by nature in every respect as their Anglo-Saxon conquerors, to aid the general cause of progress, their efforts had been confined to procuring the mere necessaries of existence, to an indulgence in the enjoyments of a semi-savage life, and to a complete abandonment to the practice of some of the worst vices of civilization.  Whilst they neglected to introduce and to cultivate those useful arts which alone can create or add to a nation's greatness, or elevate the individual, the chief ambition of young and old, throughout California, under Spanish rule, was to attain to excellence in horsemanship; to acquire dexterity in the use of the lasso; to become proficient at <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:, bill-cards, and nine-pins; and to become adepts at the numerous tricks and subtleties peculiar to games where skill <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>So engrossed were they in these pursuits--the majority of them frivolous--that it was not to be wondered at that their missions and towns should be gradually deserted, and fall into ruins; at once a standing reproach to the people, for their negligence and effeminacy, and to the Mexican Government, for its supineness, its reckless, narrow-minded policy, its prejudices, and its injustice.  In the hands of any other people, these missions might and would have been made the legitimate instruments of improving the population, and of ministering no less to their physical necessities than to their spiritual requirements.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Instead of becoming the nucleus of intrigues, they would have been converted into so many centres, whence would have radiated streams of intelligence and civilization, which must rapidly have changed the entire aspect of the country, and not less powerfully co-operated to develop the minds of the people, and elevate their character.  But, under the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Beneath the cherishing wing of the American Government, a splendid destiny opens before it as a great commercial emporium; and, even had the gold mines never been discovered, the working of which has imparted such a sudden and so extraordinary an impetus to its growth, the natural advantages of the harbour could not have long remained unknown to the trading populations of the busy East; for it must, under the restless energy of the Yankees, have become, in course of time, the principal resort of their vessels of war, of merchantmen and whalers; whilst the hardy Anglo-Saxon emigrants would eventually have flocked into the country, eager to open up a new and a wider field for their industry.  Agriculture, too, would soon have claimed its right to measure the strength of its sinewy arm against the stubbornness of the soil, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Yet no one acquainted intimately with California can pronounce it as being particularly well adapted for agriculture.  Something in this way can and will undoubtedly be effected; but the country must owe its future eminence wholly to the admirable position of San Francisco, which--especially with reference to China and the Sandwich Islands--has the entire East at its command.  This circumstance alone would have rendered the acquisition of California of paramount importance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The discovery of the gold mines, however, has done at once for San Francisco what it was reasonable to anticipate time only could have effected; and its progress in importance has far outstripped the most sanguine expectations which could be based upon any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:hypothesis hazarded on the strength of its admirable position and facilities for trade.  Nevertheless, its growth seems unnatural; and, looking at it as I saw it then, it left on my mind the impression of instability, so marvellous was it to gaze upon a city of tents, wood, and canvass, starting up thus suddenly, forming but a halting-place to the thousands who visited it; having for citizens a large majority of gamblers and speculators; and presenting of civilization but the rudest outline, and some of its worst vices.  It was impossible, indeed, for an observer to contemplate San Francisco, at this particular period of its history, and not to feel that everything about it savoured of transition.  A storm or a fire must have destroyed the whole in a few hours; for every house, shed, or tent, had manifestly been constructed merely to serve the end of the actual occupier; they were all adapted for trading, but not a convenience or a comfort appertained to them, to indicate a desire or an intention of settlement.  Every day brought new-comers, and added to the number of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:ephemeral structures which crowded the hill-sides.  Mechanics of every description of calling were at work, earnestly, busily, and cheerfully; and, whichever way I turned, there was bustle and activity; yet, withal, I felt that such a state of things was unsound, because resting on what was essentially speculative, and I doubted not but a great change must come before the city could be regarded as substantially advancing.  Comprised at a glance, it presented no other appearance save that of a confused crowd of tenements, of every variety of construction; some high, some low, perched upon the steep hills, or buried in the deep valleys--but still tents and canvass everywhere and anywhere, their numbers defying calculation, their structure and position all analysis.  There existed neither wells nor ponds within a very considerable distance; and what struck me as most singular, being aware that the Spaniards had a mission here, there was no sign of a church.  I subsequently ascertained that the site of the Mission of Dolores, about five miles distant, had been preferred by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:Spaniards, and that divine service was performed there still.  Indeed, this locality being less exposed to the severe <HI REND="italics">summer</HI>
121.sgm: winds, and the land in its vicinity being richer, and comparatively level, had attracted the early settlers, and the Mission of Dolores as it was styled, had long been far in advance of San Francisco, previously to the invasion of the country by the Americans, in 1846, and contained, besides the church, a great many substantial <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>Having given my impressions of San Francisco, as derived from a cursory inspection of its exterior, I will now examine it more in detail, reminding the reader that if he feels desirous of accompanying me in my explorations, he must not be over fastidious as to the company he may occasionally meet with.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>The Washington Market--The Colonnade--The Gotham Saloon--The Plaza--The Miners' Bank--The Parker House--The Cafe&acute; Francais--An old acquaintance--Notions respecting the mines and things in general, as they appeared at San Francisco--High price of provisions--The Gamblers of the Parker House--Some account of the game of <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>As I proceeded along the road leading into the principal street of the city, I was uncomfortably reminded that it would soon become necessary for me to select a place where I could procure refreshment; and in connexion with this necessity, arose another consideration no less important, namely, where I should lodge?  There was no other mode of solving the difficulty, save by an exploration of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In this same road, but nearer to the entrance of the main street than I should say was, under any circumstances, altogether pleasant, stood the <HI REND="italics">correl</HI>
121.sgm:<P>I turned into the principal street, and soon came up to the Market itself, which is a wooden house, about thirty feet square, kept by an American.  To my right, as I advanced, were some stores and hotels, and a confectioner's shop of remarkably neat and clean appearance: these were all one story, wooden buildings.  One of the hotels was appropriately designated as "The Colonnade."  It was kept by a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:volunteer named Huxley, and differed from every similar establishment in the town, inasmuch as the proprietor allowed neither gambling nor drunkenness on his premises.  To this the "Gotham Saloon," a little further on, offered a perfect contrast, for here there were several <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>I came next to the Square, or "Plaza," on one side of which, and fronting it, stood the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I passed another hotel, similar to this one, but not quite so large, and came presently to a low wooden house, of most unattractive and unprepossessing exterior, which was dignified by the name of the " <HI REND="italics">Cafe&acute; Franc&cedil;ais</HI>
121.sgm:."  As this seemed likely to suit my present convenience, and to promise a scale of prices on a par with its external appearance, I entered boldly, and seated myself at the dining-table.  I noticed, as I went in, that, notwithstanding the poverty without, there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HOW TO TURN A SHIP'S COOKING-GALLEY INTO A CAFE&acute; RESTAURANT.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>was abundance within; the counter being literally overcharge with French pastry, a variety of ingenious culinary preparations, and some foreign liquors.  Whilst my dinner was preparing, I scanned the faces about me, and felt much pleased to recognise in one of the guests an old acquaintance from New York, although he was disguised <HI REND="italics">a&grave; la Californienne</HI>
121.sgm:, his person being enveloped in a handsome <HI REND="italics">serapa</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"You are so altered in dress and countenance," he said, shaking me heartily by the hand, as he seated himself by me, "that I could scarcely recognise you.  You are about one of the last men I should have expected to meet with in California.  You've been to the mines, of course?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>I answered in the affirmative.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"What success had you?  Good, I hope."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"But middling.  Indeed, I may say I have been very unsuccessful as a digger."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Sorry for that!  Is there really as much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Perhaps so; but it is true, nevertheless: and, although I have been greatly disappointed in what I went to do, and what I saw, I am not disposed to decry the `diggins,' and to derogate from their reputation for richness."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"How was it fared so poorly, then?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The truth is, that they who want gold must work very hard to get it.  There is abundance of it, I am persuaded; but only such men as can endure the hardships and privations incidental to life in the mines, are likely to make fortunes by digging for the ore.  I am unequal to the task."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, I asked the question because I have met with a great many persons who, having been disappointed--possibly, from a similar cause--abuse the mines and the country, and, on their return home, set to work contradicting all the fine tales told about them.  I suppose a journey to them pays, however?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Knowing what I know, and having seen as much as I have, I would not advise any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"That sounds strange, too; but it only corroborates what I have already heard fifty times over.  I think I could, within an hour, assemble in this very place from twenty to thirty individuals of my own acquaintance, who would all tell the same story.  They are thoroughly dissatisfied and disgusted with their experiment in the gold country.  The truth of the matter is, that only traders, speculators, and gamblers, make large fortunes.  I question very much--from the information I have been able to derive from one and the other--whether two-thirds of the gold dug out by the hard-working but imprudent miners do not pass into the hands of such men; and I feel satisfied that few of the gold-hunters--notwithstanding they may, some of them, have picked up, in the best season, sums exceeding seven thousand dollars--will return home very much richer than they left it."</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Don't you think that the great moneymaking season is over, even for the speculators?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"It's hard to say what there is left in the mines; but, supposing they should continue to yield abundantly, as they doubtless will for some little time longer, their reputation for inexhaustible resources will attract an incalculable number of emigrants, who will all--or the majority of them, at least--flock to the "diggins;" but in proportion as the numbers of the diggers increase, will their chances diminish of picking up any very great quantity of gold; and their failure, in this respect, must necessarily affect the traders and speculators; for a man who has realized by the hardest labour only eight dollars a day, is not so likely to pay thirty or forty dollars for a coat, as he is who has dug out a hundred dollars'-worth in the same time.  Then there are the markets, which, in consequence of the influx of so many strangers, will become glutted with all sorts of goods.  This must bring down the prices of things, and will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"But surely, folks will reply to that--the more people that come into the country, and go to the mines, the more gold will be dug out, in the aggregate, and the greater will be the demand for goods.  Even should prices come down--as, in the natural course of business operations, they must--merchants will make up for the decline by the greater bulk and amount of sales.  I have invariably met with this reply, when I have ventured to express opinions similar to your own."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Such an argument rests upon an assumption; for it is taken for granted that all who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:go to the mines will henceforth be able to dig out a fair proportion of gold.  Experience, however, has proved that, even under the most favourable circumstances, only the very few have procured a large quantity; a minority have been partially, say tolerably successful; but the mass have experience disappointment.  Under present circumstances, then, we may reasonably conclude that two-thirds of those who go gold-digging will fail to realize any thing over and above their expenditure.  Then, as the gold becomes more generally distributed, the demand for the more expensive articles and descriptions of merchandise will diminish.  Again, it must be borne in mind, that, granting a fall in prices would force more extensive sales, though at declining profits, the expenses of the merchants and traders would increase disproportionately.  They must, in such a case, enlarge their warehouses, engage more hands, secure the services of a greater number of trustworthy clerks; and, in the present state of the country, I need not tell you that all this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, then, ground-rents must come down."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Not a bit of it!  People who come here must lodge somewhere; houses and tents must be built; and, if the holders of land can't get their price one way, you may rely upon it, they will in another.  What they fail to get out of the bulk, they will make up in the detail.  I can give you an illustration.  A man I know had a lot, and let it very well; but he kept on raising the rent, till his tenant told him he couldn't pay so much.  `Well,' says this man, `I guess you had better clear out.'  And so he did.  The landlord then divided the lot into sections, and let each at a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, I suppose you are not going to the mines, as you seem to entertain doubts respecting them?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Not I, faith!  I am going to do what is better than digging for gold, on a chance of finding it.  I shall speculate; and, if my scheme proves successful, I shall realize a fortune in a short time.  Have you any inclination to join me in it?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"What kind of a spec. is it?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"A theatrical one.  I want to build a large establishment for dramatic representations.  Come!--six thousand dollars, and the partnership is a done thing.  It will be a substantial investment, I can tell you.  You will treble your money in a few months."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I am not in a position to become your partner, for I am as poor as a church-mouse, just now.  But I imagine that, if the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"I suppose I shall.  As to its succeeding, I have no doubt about it.  A theatre, you see, must attract, because here it would not only be a novelty, but would offer cheap entertainment; at least, much cheaper than the gambling-tables.  People gamble here, because they have nothing better to do, and no other place to go to but the <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"It appears to me to be a very feasible undertaking, and, I dare say, will succeed; but, as I have not the dollars, I cannot join you."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, that's a fact; for the dollars are a <HI REND="italics">sine qua non</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Much obliged for your flattering opinion; but this is not the first good chance I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"No, don't, unless you can make money by it.  I shall see you again soon, I dare say.  I must be off now.  Good by."</P>
121.sgm:<P>My friend went away, after shaking me warmly by the hand; and, as I had finished my repast, consisting of a beef-steak, two eggs, and a couple of cups of coffee, I prepared to follow him.  I specify the items of which my repast was made up, because of the price I paid for them--namely, two dollars and a half.  I was informed, on hazarding an observation respecting the amount, that the charges were excessively moderate, any thing in the shape of a dinner being usually charged one dollar and fifty cents; half a dollar each for the eggs, which were extras, was only a reasonable price for such luxuries, as they frequently sold for double.  I considered the information thus obtained to be cheap, of its kind, and went away with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>As I repassed the "Parker House," the <HI REND="italics">h&ocirc;tel, par excellence</HI>
121.sgm:<P>This is not only the largest, but the handsomest building in San Francisco; and, having been constructed at enormous expense, and entirely on speculation, a concurrence of fortunate circumstances alone, such as had followed upon the discovery of the gold mines, could have ensured its prosperity.  It was now one of the most frequented, fashionable, and firmly established hotels in the country; and, in so far as it presented a model to the builders and settlers in the town, was a signal illustration of the shrewdness and enterprise of the Yankee character, and a standing credit to the projectors and proprietors.</P>
121.sgm:<P>It is built entirely of wood, and contains two very spacious principal rooms; the one a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:dining-room, the other set apart for billiards.  Besides these, there are three saloons of lesser dimensions, especially devoted to gambling, and two well supplied bars-one below, to the right of the entry, the other in the billiard-room.  The portion of the hotel that is not set apart for the usual offices and conveniences is divided off into innumerable chambers, which are occupied by the superior classes of emigrants--lawyers, doctors, moneybrokers, <HI REND="italics">cum multis aliis</HI>
121.sgm:<P>The saloon contains two very handsome billiard-tables, which are constantly occupied by players, chiefly Americans, some of them of first-rate excellence.  The charge was a dollar per game of a hundred, and they were no sooner vacated by one party than another came in.  At one of them I saw Mr. C--, of Monterey, whom I have already alluded to.  He was engaged in a game with a New Orleans man, who, with some difficulty, beat him.  He paid his loss with great <HI REND="italics">sang froid</HI>
121.sgm:, and crossed over to the <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm: -tables, where he lost about eight ounces; but soon won <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The establishment contained nine gambling-tables, which were crowded, day and night, by the citizens and the miners; many of the latter staking very large sums upon the turn of a card.  The stakes, however, varied from twenty-five cents to five thousand dollars; and the excitement of some of the losers was frequently fearful to contemplate.  Some who gained largely prudently withdrew; and I was informed that, a few days previously to my arrival, a new-comer from the States, who was bound for the mines, having come into the saloon, and tried his fortune at the <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>As this game of <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>It is apparently very simple.  The table is covered with a cloth--usually black--and divided off into four compartments, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:either by means of pieces of tape, or chalk lines.  On each of these divisions a card is thrown down, with its face upwards, two of them being winning cards, and two losing ones; the former being determined by the deal, the first colour turned up winning.  The money staked is placed in the square near the card on which the bet is made, and which is, of course, considered most likely to become a trump.  There are two <HI REND="italics">croupiers</HI>
121.sgm:, seated opposite to each other, whose duties are, the one to shuffle and deal the cards, the other to "pay off;" and the office of the latter is by no means a sinecure.  The bets being made, for and against, the cards are cast; and the bettors on the fortunate colours receive double the amount of their stake, the deposits, or <HI REND="italics">en-jeux</HI>
121.sgm: of the losers, being appropriated to paying the bets made by parties on the opposite side.  If there is any residue, it is swept off into the bank in the centre of the table.  You may, however, be what is termed "caught in the door;" that is, the colour or suit on which you bet may appear on the top <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the skill and adroitness of the dealers, they very often encounter difficult customers, who are equally as cunning as themselves, and who, by a peculiar process known as "tapping," involve them in heavy losses, even to the extent of the entire capital of the bank.  When the dealer is challenged "to tap," he may decline; though I never saw it done once.  I suppose a refusal implies that there is a doubt respecting the honesty of the play, and it is not considered good policy to refuse.  The "tapper" proceeds to stake a sum, equal to the amount in the centre of the table, upon a particular colour, which, if it turn up first, entitles him to sweep away the whole sum.  I have seen many banks exhausted by this process.  When a bank is cleaned out, it is said to be "bursted."  Not unfrequently one of the bettors against the bank, who may have staked a considerable sum, if he entertain any suspicion of trickery, will request permission, when the betting-cards have been laid out, to deal the remainder himself; a request rarely refused.  It is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:resource which often turns the tide.  I was present, on one occasion, when a merchant of the town--an experienced player, from New Orleans--who had been betting to the tune of twenty ounces at a time with unvarying ill-luck, took the dealing into his own hands four times out of five, and not only regained his former losses, but "bursted" the bank.  In such a dilemma, the <HI REND="italics">esprit-de-corps</HI>
121.sgm: amongst the Californian gamesters manifests itself in a manner which--apart from any consideration of morality that may be involved--does them infinite credit, as they never fail to lend to the banks that may chance to have been broken down, or "bursted."  I saw enough to convince me that, although, if fairly played, <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm: is strictly a game of chance, it affords far too many facilities for cheating to justify one in risking much at it.  Some of the experienced gamblers seemed able to calculate, with a nicety of tact and judgment that surprised me, the succession of suits as they turned up, so as to almost possess a power of staking with a certainty of winning.  Indeed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The "Golden Eagle" ( <HI REND="italics">l' Aguila d' Oro</HI>
121.sgm:<P>I took particular interest in one of the players, a Spaniard, very poorly dressed, but who was betting at the rate of from twenty to forty ounces at a time.  It was almost edifying to witness the equanimity with which, amidst the general excitement, he lost his money.  He played at <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm: until he was relieved of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:all his ready cash, when he turned away laughing, and went over to a roulette-table, of which I subsequently ascertained he was the proprietor.  He made a few turns at it; but, finding he could not attract a customer, proceeded to borrow some money of a friend, with which he returned to the <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm: -table.  He staked eight ounces on the " <HI REND="italics">cavallo</HI>
121.sgm:," a face-card, representing a female on a horse, and which we call the "Queen," and doubled his venture the first deal.  The Spaniard swept up his gains with a smile; the dealer looked as cool as ice in autumn, called for liquor and cigars, and laid out anew.  The "Queen" once more fell out; and the Spaniard, faithful to his colours, betted in her favour again, but barred the door.  The "seven of clubs" was in the door, and the roulette man took back his money.  Not so many others, who, less cautious, lost large sums.  The play continued, and the Spaniard invariably won, until all the gold that had been in the centre of the table was ranged by his side: it might have amounted to several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>At another table, a scene of a different kind took place.  There came in a rough-looking individual, whom, from his appearance, I judged to be a miner, and who, throwing down a twenty-five cent piece, declared, with an oath, that he would stake his all upon the first card dealt.  He won, and continued playing and winning, increasing the amount of his bets until they attained the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GAMBLING SCENE IN SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"I am off now!  I think I've got enough to treat all my friends."</P>
121.sgm:<P>With this remark, and a very peculiar gesture to the banker, who was trying to persuade him to have another turn, he hurried away, amidst the laughter of the company.</P>
121.sgm:<P>On leaving the Golden Eagle, I crossed over to the El-Dorado, a similar establishment, constructed of canvass, and, like the one I had just left, crowded to suffocation, although with a lower class of players.  Nevertheless, the sums of money won and lost here are astounding.  I could scarcely find elbowroom; whilst the heat arising from so many persons, the fumes of tobacco, the rank atmosphere, and the noise, and crowding, and jostling of so many drunken Spaniards and Americans, rendered a stay here--even for a limited time--excessively disagreeable.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Whilst I stood watching the game, there entered a singular-looking person, attired in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Just like Jemmy Twitcher!" said one of the bystanders.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>As nobody asked who Jemmy Twitcher was, I concluded that everybody knew him: and, wishing to be equally well informed, ventured to ask of a person who stood close by me.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"He's one of the Hounds," replied my informant, without turning his head aside.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I was no wiser than before; but, as the game was now being made, and the general attention fixed upon the table, I contented myself for the present with the information that Jemmy Twitcher was a Hound, and no doubt too celebrated a character for me to remain in San Francisco long, without learning more about him and his fraternity.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I now proceeded to the City Hotel, a large but somewhat antiquated building, constructed of <HI REND="italics">adobe&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:, after the Spanish fashion, but hybridized by American improvements.  The interior was even more insufferable than the El-Dorado, in respect of the boisterousness of its frequenters.  In the first room that I entered were five gambling-tables, doing a "smashing business;" a term employed, somewhat in contradiction to its import, to denote <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Here I met with another of the volunteers, who proposing a walk, we went out together, and proceeded to the Plaza.  I found a good many old acquaintances set up in business at this spot; one, who had been a captain, had recently turned money-broker, and now kept an office for the exchange of coin and golddust, having entered into partnership with a highly respectable and agreeable individual, of active business habits, who promised to prove a great acquisition to the concern.  Theirs was the only establishment of the kind in the town; and, as the miners are always ready to sacrifice a dollar or two per ounce, for the convenience of possessing coin, I have no doubt they have by this time realized a very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Speaking to my friend of the Parker House, he told me that one of the present propietors of it had been a dragoon in the regular service, who had made a fortune at <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>By this time we had reached a low, long, <HI REND="italics">adobe&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The streets leading down to the water-side contain comparatively few hotels or eating-houses, they being chiefly wood and canvass trading-stores.  I observed amongst them several newly opened auction and commission-rooms, where goods were being put up, recommended and knocked down in true Yankee style.  An immense number of wooden frame-houses in course of erection met our view in every direction; and upon remarking that many of them appeared to have been purposely left incomplete, I ascertained that this arose from the extreme difficulty of procuring lumber, which, on account of its scarcity, occasionally fetched an incredibly high price.  A good deal of it is brought from Oregon, and some from South America.  Many of the larger houses, but far inferior, notwithstanding, to such of the same kind as could easily be procured in New York at a rental of from 300 to 400 dollars a-year, cost here at least 10,000 dollars to build them, the lots on which they were erected being valued at sums varying from 30,000 to 50,000 dollars, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In one of the streets adjacent to the square, I noticed an eating-house called the New York Lunch.  It was fitted up in the Yankee style, with numerous small partitions, or boxes, for the exclusive accommodation of parties who chose to eat their meals unobserved, or to enjoy comparative privacy.  Here I had some tea and chops, for which I was charged one dollar and a half.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Taking a note of these items as I wandered about the neighbourhood of the square, and adopting them as the basis of a calculation which it was necessary for me to make, in order to estimate the probable amount of my weekly expenditure, I came to the conclusion that, at three meals a day, my board would cost me from thirty to thirty-five dollars a week, exclusive of lodgings and other requisites.  I thought of the man on the hill, who had offered me thirty-six dollars a week to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I passed my first night in San Francisco stretched upon a form, in a tavern, where the boisterous mirth of a rude crowd of revellers effectually prevented me from dreaming of anything else but drums and cymbals clattering in most execrable confusion and discord.  Once I thought I was drowning; for I experienced the peculiar roaring sensation of deafness incidental to immersing one's head in the water; but, on awakening, I found that one of the company, being waggishly inclined, had poured some of the liquor he was drinking into my ear.  I thought it a very poor joke, but laughed at it as though I very much relished it; and, altering my position, dozed off again, and remained in a dog's sleep until the morning.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>A start in search of fortune--Antoine of Monterey--My first venture--The California liner--Difficulties of captains in getting crews--Cheap lodgings at the Buckland--I set up in business--My success--I take a partner--The Yankee miner--More news about the "diggins"--My second partner--His squaw and squaller--Novel cottage--The season in San Francisco--Scarcity of good water--Value of a horse and cart--Wages and profits.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I was stirring betimes in the morning, and, after refreshing myself by plunging my fevered head into a bucket of cold water, proceeded to look about me for employment, being fully alive to the necessity of activity.  Fortune signally favoured me, by throwing me in the way of Antoine, a negro from Monterey, whom I had formerly known, and whom I met as I directed my steps towards the beach.  It was an agreeable surprise; for he was a shrewd, industrious fellow, and appreciated, as keenly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Well," he said, "glad to see you, massar.  What you tink?  Him sell your saddle for sixty-five dallar.  Dat good, eh?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I don't know, Antoine.  I ought to know what you gave for the horse you swapped for it."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, Goramighty's truth, him cost me forty dallar.  Bery good spec. dat, eh?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Rather, for you, Antoine; though, as I wanted the beast, we both did well.  What are you doing here?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, not partickler, nohow, what him do.  Sometime go arrands, sometime spec'late: anything for make money.  An' you?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I am on the look out, Antoine.  I've been to the mines, and done very little good, and am come here to try my luck as a painter."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, now!  Dat's de bery ting.  Capital spec., dat saddle; so him jist tell you someting good."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"What is it, Antoine?"</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"You see dat boat, yon'er?  Dere, on de beach, a stickin' in de mud?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Yes.  What of it?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Dat am b'long to California steamer.  Dat am de Cap'ain's boat, and dere am de Cap'ain, 'longside.  Him jist want a painter; so you dam lucky."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Just the very thing, Antoine; for I can see it will not answer to stay in this place, kicking one's heels.  I'll be off at once."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, I see you 'gain some time"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Yes, yes.  Thank you heartily, Antoine.  Good by, for the present."</P>
121.sgm:<P>I shook hands with the good-natured fellow, and had got a few paces from him, when, turning about, I saw him grinning and rubbing his hands, as if in high glee.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Ah, ah!" he shouted after me; "dam good spec., dat saddle; but tink you got it back now, eh?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>I could not help laughing at the observation, which implied a very great deal, and, waving my hand to him, hurried down to the beach, where I at once accosted the Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes," said he; "right enough.  We've got one aboard; but the fellow's a butcher by trade, and handles the brushes like a monkey.  Jump in; we'll soon pull you alongside."</P>
121.sgm:<P>On our way, we struck a bargain, I undertaking to paint the interior of the vessel in my best style, and he agreeing to remunerate me at the rate of two hundred and sixty dollars a month, clear of all expenses.  I subsesequently had reason to believe that this was not the most favourable arrangement for myself that I might have made; for the sailors, who were the only men around me with whose circumstances I could compare my own, were receiving from one hundred and twenty to a hundred and fifty dollars a month.  I was, however, but too glad to procure immediate employment, and had no reason to complain during the three weeks I remained on board.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The Captain's position was not by any means an enviable one; for he experienced not only the greatest difficulty in procuring able-bodied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:men in the place of those who deserted the vessel, from time to time, to go to the mines, but in keeping them on board when they had engaged themselves, even on their own terms.  They would quit the vessel when their services were sometimes most required, and remain ashore several days, gambling and carousing.  I remember, he was for some time sadly put about for a cook, although he offered three hundred dollars a month for one; and, on one occasion, was several days getting in a stock of coals, which might have been shipped in six hours.  I had a great deal of work to do, for the greater portion of the wood-work inside was new, the Captain having been obliged, in consequence of the scarcity of fuel, during the passage, to break up the wainscoting, and burn it.  He was an agreeable, gentlemanly person, ardently devoted to the service in which he had engaged; and, but for his energy and perseverance under the trying circumstances incidental to it at this particular juncture, it is doubtful whether the Californian Line Steamer Company <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>For a long time, the success of the line seemed more than doubtful, until the influx of a larger population, by reducing the price of labour and provisions, and by diminishing the expenditure, and increasing the traffic, settled the point to the satisfaction of the parties who had set the enterprise on foot.  But the arduous nature of his duties, and the anxiety they entailed, finally affected the Captain's health; so that he was obliged to renounce the service, and return home.  The Company, however, appreciating his efforts, presented him, on his last arrival in New York, with a handsome testimonial, in acknowledgment of the energy and judgment displayed by him in overcoming the extraordinary difficulties he had had to encounter.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Numberless vessels lay at anchor in the harbour, in much the same predicament as the California, being obliged to wait for their crews until the mining season had terminated, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The masters of the vessels resorted to all sorts of expedients to preserve their necessary complement of men, but in vain.  One, the captain of a merchantman, whose crew had refused to work, and openly avowed their determination of going to the mines, sent to the Commodore, and they were all carried away, in double irons, on board the Ohio flag-ship.  But such severities as these, notwithstanding they answered their end for the moment, produced no permanently beneficial results; and, as a rule, the men were more masters than the masters themselves, who, making a virtue of necessity, became resigned to their fate, consoling themselves for their disappointments by indulging in the dissipation of the town.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Having completed my work on board the California, to the satisfaction of my employer, I took advantage of an opportunity to return to San Francisco, afforded by six of the crew taking a holiday ashore.  We encountered a heavy current and a strong wind, which, in spite of our strenuous efforts to make the "Point," drove us some three miles to the north-west of it; and I found that landing in boats was not generally an easy matter, the beach being shingly, and in some parts very rocky.  We effected our object at last, getting thoroughly wetted in our attempts to get on shore; my blankets, &amp;c.--which, by the way, I had to carry for a distance of four miles--having already been soaked by the washing of the sea into the boat.  The journey proved a most uncomfortable and fatiguing one, owing to the depth and looseness of the sand, and the irregularity of the route.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The first person of my acquaintance that I met, chanced to be Antoine.  I encountered him in the middle of the town; and, notwithstanding he was a man of colour, I saluted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>He rated me soundly for not having struck a more lucrative bargain, and really made me feel extremely simple.  However, I told him that it was only paying for experience; though he seemed to imply, by the shake of the head with which he intimated it was no business of his, that I ought not to have been so long in California without gaining that very necessary stock in trade.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"An' what him goin' to do now--eh, massar?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I shall do what I told you it was my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Am sixteen dollar a week cheap now--eh?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"What, for board and lodging?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Iss; bote on 'em: an' good at de money."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, I think that would suit."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Den you get it at Bucklan' House: an' dere a shanty in him back-yard, where plenty room for paint all day."</P>
121.sgm:<P>I thanked Antoine for this interesting piece of information; and, having ascertained from him the direction of Buckland House, repaired thither at once.</P>
121.sgm:<P>It was a good-sized tavern; the conveniences and accommodations for lodgers consisting of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:one very large general room up-stairs, with three smaller ones below, besides the kitchen, a kind of supplement, in the rear.  The sleeping-apartment--into a corner of which I threw down my blankets--did not contain a single bed or mattrass, but there were about twenty bundles ranged all around it, containing the <HI REND="italics">serapas</HI>
121.sgm:, or the blankets of the lodgers.  There were likewise several trunks, on which were seated sundry well-dressed and some very rough-looking individuals, who were engaged in various occupations; one of them--evidently a new arrival in the country--writing a letter on a portfolio opened across his knees; others, stitching leathern purses, or repairing their saddles and clothes; and some lounging listlessly about in various positions, all more or less uncomfortable.  I observed that there was a total absence of chairs, and no fireplace; whilst the only article that did duty for a table, was a kind of hybrid between a bench and a stool, covered now with shavings and carpenters' tools.  Several boards were missing from one side of the room; so that I could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Our creature-necessaries were on the same scale of discomfort, and of quality provokingly consistent.  Beef of passable age and tenderness; sour, home-made bread, and beans; tea of doubtful origin, without milk; and butter of a flavour so powerful as to render economy in its use prudent as a sanitary measure.  Remonstrances proved unavailing.  The invariable reply was, that no better could be procured in the town; and it was the same with every other article.  Besides, the charge was only sixteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The proprietor of the Buckland was a Mormon, who had originally left his native home to settle in Oregon, but hearing of the discovery of the gold mines, had come to California, visited the "placers," and dug gold, and traded with such success, as to be enabled to purchase several extensive lots of ground, on one of which he had built the establishment in which he resided.  He had purchased these lots--as I was informed--for about 2,500 dollars; and they were now worth 50,000; so rapidly had the town increased.  He was reported to be a wealthy man; and I must do him the justice to say that he neglected no opportunity of increasing his gains, his family and himself being admirable specimens of the acquisitive class to which they belonged.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I had procured my chests from on board the brig in which I had come from Monterey; and one of these, set up in my corner, served me in lieu of easel; another, with my bundle of blankets, for a table and a seat; and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I now hung out my sign in front of the house, and soon succeeded in attracting customers; and although I laboured under many disadvantages, I averaged an ounce a day--far better, I thought, than digging even two ounces in the mines, exposed to privations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>For a considerable time I was unsuccessful, owing to the difficulty of finding a person at once tolerably competent, and who could be confided in.  At length, I met with a man who had followed the trade in the States, and with whom, after making some inquiry concerning him, I entered into a temporary arrangement.  Happy for me was it that our articles were of this kind; for, after some time, although our business flourished beyond my expectations, I discovered him to be a gamester, and habitually addicted to inebriety.  He was one of those convivial, specious, smooth-tongued individuals, who easily procure friends by their insinuating manners, and lose them as fast by their unsteadiness, or want of principle.  These failings compelled me, for my own credit sake, to dissolve the association as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Amongst the casual residents at the Buckland was a man of very rough appearance, who had come down from the mines, intending to take the steamer, and return to the United States in a few days.  He slept near my corner, and used to watch me at my work, but without offering any remark.  The evening before the vessel was to start, he occupied himself arranging the contents of his trunk, on which he slept.  I had finished work for the day, and was seated on my blankets, enjoying the fumes of a cigar, when, observing him take out two leathern bags, such as the miners usually carry their gold in, and inferring from this circumstance that he had been unusually fortunate--since he was returning home--I ventured to open a conversation with him.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I suppose you made a good find of it," said I, laughing, as I addressed him, and pointing to the leathern bags.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, pretty good, I calc'late," he answered; and, as he spoke, he turned out the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"How much have you got?" asked I.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, now, guess.  Can't you guess?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I'm no judge.  My experience that way has been too limited."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, I reckon there's four thousand dollars here, good weight; and that's a fact."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Is that all you brought away?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"All!  I suppose it is; and no such easy work to get that, I tell you."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Why didn't you stay and make fifty thousand, since you were so successful?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Why didn't I?  Yes! why didn't I?  Why, because it was such tarnation hard work.  I'most busted myself, as it was.  If you knowed how hard I worked to get them 'are four thousand dollars, I'm darn'd if you'd ax why I didn't stay longer."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Most of the miners that leave the `diggins' do so because they can't find enough to satisfy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, now! let them stop that likes it.  I'm sick and tired of mining--etarnally sick on it.  It's on'y fit for niggers to do, that sort of work; and darn'd if they'd stand it long.  I had two notions, I reckon, when I came down here; one was to buy a small craft to trade up and down the rivers, and the other was to go back to the States, buy a small farm, and settle down.  'Atween them 'ara two notions I was in a reg'lar fix; but I've made up my mind now."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"And you are going to leave California, a country where, if you chose to stay and dig, you might make a fortune in a couple of years."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, I don't mean nothing else, and that's a fact."</P>
121.sgm:<P>Having cleaned his gold by the process I have mentioned, he put it back into the bags, and, having completed his arrangements, laid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>After continuing alone for a considerable period, I found that the necessity was daily becoming more imperative for me to procure assistance, as I lost so much valuable time in consequence of being obliged to attend to the out-of-door business, collecting orders, bill, &amp;c.  The best painters, however, were at the mines; and those who remained, refused to lend their assistance under twenty-five dollars a day, which was quite as much as I could earn myself by the closest application.  From one of them I heard that my late partner had purchased a brig for six thousand dollars, with which he intended to commence trading between San Francisco and Sacramento; and I subsequently ascertained from himself that this was correct.</P>
121.sgm:<P>One morning, I chanced to meet with an acquaintance whom I had known at Monterey, where he was engaged in the capacity of a commissary's clerk, but who had acquired <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>My companion and I now proceeded to set up our establishment; and having procured the framework of a tent, and the services of a sailmaker to cut and sew our canvas, for the sum of forty dollars, we obtained the use of a lot in the lower part of the town, near the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>This was the first painter's establishment of its kind that had as yet  been set up in California--at least in San Francisco--and, for the month we remained in it, we had every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>It was fortunate for us that we shifted our quarters; for, although in the summer season the whole of the ground in the neighbourhood of our establishment was eagerly bought up, or let at enormous prices, the locality in winter became uninhabitable, on account of the heavy floods which poured into it from the upper lands, converting it into a mere morass, and spoiling the goods of the unlucky traders who happened to be resident there.</P>
121.sgm:<P>We removed to a plot of ground directly opposite the "Shades" hotel, which we obtained at a monthly rental of fifty dollars: a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:sum sufficiently high, as this was an inferior business locality, although we continued to carry on our affairs prosperously.  I suffered greatly, nevertheless, from the wretched peculiarities of the climate of San Francisco.  From noontide till midnight there is a perfect gale of wind continually blowing during the whole of the <HI REND="italics">summer season</HI>
121.sgm:<P>We dared not expose the side of our tent to the wind, as it would have presented too large a surface; wherefore, being perfectly aware of the inconvenience we should have to encounter in such a case, and of the danger there would be of the entire structure being blown prostrate, the uprights were firmly sunk into the ground, so as to oppose the smallest possible angle to the action of the rude gusts that swept the hill.  We likewise strengthened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In the mean while, my companion and his wife had contrived to obtain a residence which, under the circumstances, was snug and comfortable enough.  One of his acquaintances, a clerk in one of the principal stores, possessed an old ship's cooking-galley, about ten feet square, which he had purchased for a mere trifle, as it was beginning to rot away.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The clerk had a lot of ground upon a hill at the back of the town, and which was at that time lying useless.  The idea seemed to please him; and the galley having been removed to the desired spot, and at an expense of five hundred dollars transformed into a dwelling capable of accommodating two persons, it was hired by my partner, at a monthly rental of fifty dollars.  He was scarcely in it, when another party bid sixty for it.</P>
121.sgm:<P>This cottage contained only one room; but, to compensate for this, it had two doors and a window.  The interior was covered with canvass, closely tacked to the sides, so as to exclude the piercing wind, to which, as the building stood on an eminence, it was particularly exposed.  The owner valued it, and the lot on which it was built, at six thousand dollars, which he might readily have obtained for them at any time.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>It had, however, in common with all the houses of San Francisco, one great disadvantage; though, in this instance, the inconvenience was more felt, on account of the elevated site of the dwelling.  There was no water near at hand; and many a time have I seen him toiling up the hill, and panting with the effort of carrying up to his little hut a large bucket or a pitcher of this necessary, which he had been obliged to fetch from a considerable distance.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The water, generally, is not good; and, in the opinion of medical men, it generates much sickness.  Wells have been sunk in different parts of the town, often with great labour; but in almost every instance the result has been unfortunate, the water in them being found too dirty to be adapted for culinary purposes, or wholesome to drink.  The wells in the valley near which my partner lived contained perhaps the worst; yet none better was to be obtained within a distance of a mile and a half.  Ultimately, the inhabitants will be compelled to have water carted up to their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Our business mean while prospered satisfactorily; so that we were enabled to employ several men, whose services we fortunately secured in consequence of the large influx of newcomers; a circumstance that reduced the rate of wages.  Nevertheless, we paid at the rate of eight, twelve, and fifteen dollars a day, and thought ourselves extremely lucky to get off so cheaply.</P>
121.sgm:<P>We had not been long established in our new tent, when I received a visit from Antoine, who had kept up a constant communication with me, and rendered me good service, occasionally, by timely recommendations.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, Antoine; what brings you here now?  Where are your horse and cart?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>I ought to have stated that this was a speculation of Antoine's.  After being employed in various ways, chiefly running of errands and carrying parcels, it occurred to him, that by purchasing a horse and a cart, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"What!  Are you going to Monterey?"  I inquired.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Iss, massar; I goin' back dere, cos no more good for me stop here, now."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Why, what's amiss, Antoine?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, dere ain't noting 'miss; 'xcept as I am sold de horse an' cart.  Dam good spec., too, massar."</P>
121.sgm:<P>On further inquiry, I ascertained that, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Him ain't done so bad, massar," he said, in reply to a remark of mine.  "'Bout five, six tousan dollars.  Dat bery good spec.--eh, massar?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>I thought it was; but no more than he deserved for his industry and perseverance; and I told him so.  He seemed gratified by the compliment; and we shook hands and parted.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>Politics in San Francisco--Democracy <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
121.sgm: Aristocracy--The right of the majority illustrated--Pistol law <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
121.sgm:<P>During my stay in San Francisco, there occurred a great deal of political excitement, in consequence of a large proportion of the citizens being opposed to the existence of Mexican law, and in favour of removing the Alcalde, Doctor Leavenworth, who had obtained office under the old system.  They were strongly inclined to set up a new form of city government, better calculated to meet the requirements, and more adapted to the prejudices and habits of a large Yankee town, such as this had now become, and with which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The democratic party insisted that they were quite able to govern themselves, and, as a majority, competent to set about it, and to select the form of government they liked best.  They were resolved not to wait; and, as the opposition seemed equally resolute not to succumb, there was every appearance of a serious conflict.  But matters were brought to a crisis without bloodshed.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The democratic party, headed by the Sheriff (one Johnny Pulis, who contrived somehow to keep office under both Governments), and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The demand was then repeated, backed by a representation to the effect that, according to the fundamental principles of the American system of government, the will of the majority was absolute: and an intimation was, moreover, thrown out, that unless the Alcalde complied with it, the party were determined to search for and take them away by force.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The Alcalde reflected for a moment; and, whilst he appeared to be making up his mind, suddenly stretched out his hand, and took down from a shelf behind him a large horse-pistol, which he deliberately cocked.  As he did this, he said--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, gentlemen, you can proceed; but you must be answerable for the consequences."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh! if that's what you mean," exclaimed Pulis, cooly withdrawing a similar weapon from his coat-pocket, and examining the priming, "I've got one of them 'are things, too; so it's who'll have the first shot.  Go in, boys," he continued, addressing his followers, as he levelled the pistol at the Alcalde's head; "if he budges, he shan't squeak more than once."</P>
121.sgm:<P>The Alcalde, who, doubtless, never had really meant resistance, but who probably thought that a show of it was necessary at his hands, to save his honour, now attempted to parley, with a view to gain time; and assured the deputation that the town records were mixed up with other papers strictly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The democratic party being now in the ascendant, proceeded to organize the new Government, appointing their officials, and otherwise seeking to establish their authority.  On <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The supporters of the two parties were now at open war; and numerous were the quarrels and frays that ensued.  But the Alcalde was not yet beaten, and sent a message to General Reilly, at Monterey, who had recently been appointed Governor, informing him that a rebellion had broken out in San Francisco, and demanding his interference and protection.  The result of this application <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>This was an immense triumph for the democrats; and they did not fail to celebrate it after the most boisterous fashion.  Nevertheless, the new Government did not work well at first; for the individuals appointed to office were not men who, by their talents or their reputation, were qualified either to rule or to command respect from their fellow-citizens--hence, scarcely an act of theirs met with public approbation.  They were utterly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Amongst the most prominent and notorious disturbers of the public peace figured an association similar to that of the Mohawks, so elegantly described by Addison, and known by the cognomen of the "Hounds," in connexion with which I have mentioned the name of one Jemmy Twitcher.  I do not know that this person could be considered worse than his companions, amongst whom only his grotesque style of dressing caused him, perhaps, to figure more remarkably.  They were a desperate set of brawlers, gamblers, and drunkards--anything but scrupulous in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>It was kept by a very civil, obliging individual named Patterson, formerly a volunteer, but who had quitted the service a considerable time before I entered it, and who, repairing to the mines, had been fortunate enough to dig a large amount of gold.  With this he speculated in land, and succeeded beyond his expectations; one of his lucky projects being the establishment of the tavern in which he resided; and which, in spite of its bad name, was one of the most money-making in the town.  Before I left, its reputation had improved; and it is now as well regulated as any other.</P>
121.sgm:<P>With such facilities for dissipation as San Francisco afforded at this time, it was not to be wondered at that such a fraternity of ruffians should exist there, and be enabled to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:carry on their nefarious practices with impunity, or that it should have been a resort for a very large number of the most desperate adventurers, who here found a wide field open to their operations.  Crowds of these men paraded the streets at all hours, but especially at night-time, committing acts of the most revolting nature, and daringly insulting the timid passers-by.  Crimes of almost every hue were openly perpetrated with the most audacious recklessness; for there existed no law to which the citizens could, with any degree of confidence, appeal; and a general feeling of insecurity, in respect both of property and person, pervaded all classes.  The numbers of these wild and lawless men who thus infested the public thoroughfares were perfectly astounding; some of them would gallop headlong through the most frequented streets, and, alighting at any hotel, demand what they wanted, and often refuse to pay for it; involving peaceably-inclined persons in unexpected broils, which not unfrequently resulted in serious frays, and terminated in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:bloodshed.  At other times, a party of them might be seen, attired in the most gaudy clothing, with rich-coloured <HI REND="italics">serapas</HI>
121.sgm:<P>There was a place called the "Hollow," a valley situated to the north-east of the town, where there were a few <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
121.sgm: houses, occupied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ONE OF THE OLD SPANISH HOUSES IN SAN FRANCISCO--SCENE NEAR "THE HOLLOW."</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In illustration of their lawless practices, and of the manner in which they harassed the poor Chilians, three of them one day entered the store of a native of that country, and demanded goods on credit to the amount of seventy-five dollars, saying they resided at the "Shades," and were well known.  So they were; but not in the sense they wished to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Many other acts of a similar nature were perpetrated by them with the same impunity; the dupes not unfrequently getting severely maltreated when they ventured to remonstrate or resist; but at length the new town-council resolved to put an end to such depredations; and only awaited a favourable occasion for suppressing the association altogether.  The opportunity presented itself sooner than had been anticipated; for the "Hounds," ascertaining the determination of the authorities, though they did not discontinue their excesses, yet for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Not very long after the outrage alluded to above, a party of the association was seen parading the streets, with drums beating and colours flying.  That same night the store of a Chilian was broken into by them, and the unfortunate proprietor nearly murdered; he being so severely beaten, as to have been left for dead.  His neighbour and fellow-country-man, apprehending a similar fate, fled to an adjacent house, and, creeping underneath the floor of it, lay there trembling until the noise had subsided, and the deed of blood was perpetrated.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The next day, however, due information of this act of ruffianism having reached the authorities, several hundred of the citizens, amongst whom were several Chilians and Spaniards, armed with guns, pistols, and other weapons, proceeded through the town, towards the "Shades," crying out the names of several well-known members of the gang.  On reaching <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>It must not be supposed, however, that acts of rioting and crime were confined to the "Hounds;" for the place abounded in characters of a similar description; besides, the citizens would themselves not unfrequently take the law into their own hands, and thus, by violating its integrity, set an example to the more unscrupulous, who would, on some frivolous pretext, occasion disturbances which afforded them favourable opportunities for plunder.</P>
121.sgm:<P>On one occasion, I saw a crowd of persons ransacking a tent and store, situated near the "City Hotel," and kept by a Spaniard, who, as it appeared, had, on the preceding evening, murdered a volunteer named Beattie, and then taken refuge in the woods, in the interior of the country   In less than half an hour the entire contents of the store had disappeared, their value being probably not less than a thousand dollars.  There were only two volunteers present, the remainder of the crowd being composed of half-drunken sailors and the ruffians of the town, who considered this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>It appeared that the unfortunate volunteer had gone into the store in company with another man, on the previous evening; and they were drinking together, when a dispute arose, which resulted in the Spaniard's ordering the two Americans to leave the house.  Their blood was up, and they refused to comply; when the Spaniard snatched up a gun, and shot Beattie in the back.  But neither the affair of the murder, nor that of robbing the tent, ever became a subject of inquiry; affording another flagrant instance of the negligent manner in which the laws were administered, and of the contempt in which they were held.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Amongst the various emigrants who daily flocked into the city--for each day brought its fresh arrivals--were numerous Chinese, and a very considerable number of Frenchmen, from the Sandwich Islands and from South America.  The former had been consigned, with houses and merchandise, to certain Americans in San Francisco, to whom they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>These Chinese had all the air of men likely to prove good citizens, being quiet, inoffensive, and particularly industrious.  I once went into an eating-house, kept by one of these people, and was astonished at the neat arrangement and cleanliness of the place, the excellence of the table, and moderate charges.  It was styled the "Canton Restaurant;" and so thoroughly Chinese was it in its appointments, and in the manner of service, that one might have easily fancied one's-self in the heart of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>As for the French, they seemed entirely out of their element in this Yankee town; and this circumstance is not to be wondered at, when the climate and the habits of the people are taken into consideration, and also the strange deficiencies they must have observed in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Speaking of them reminds me of a " <HI REND="italics">Cafe&acute; Restaurant</HI>
121.sgm:," in San Francisco, kept by a very civil Frenchman, and situated on the way to the Point.  I mention it, because I one day made here the most uncomfortable repast it had ever been my lot to sit down to.  Yet this was not owing to any lack of attention on the part of the proprietor, to any inferiority in the quality of his provisions, or to any deficiency of culinary skill in their preparation; but simply to the prevalence of the pest to which I have already alluded as invading my own tent, namely, the dust.  The house was built chiefly of wood, and had a canvass roof, but this was insufficient to keep out the impalpable particles with which the air was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding all I had seen of San Francisco, there yet existed here a world apart, that I should never have dreamed of, but for my being one day called upon to act upon a jury appointed to sit in inquest over a person who had died there.  This place was called the "Happy Valley."</P>
121.sgm:<P>Previously to our repairing thither, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The ground was, of course, low, damp, and muddy; and the most unmistakeable evidences of discomfort, misery, and sickness, met our view on every side, for the locality was one of the unwholesomest in the vicinity of the town.  Yet here, to avoid the payment of enormous ground-rents, and at the same time to combine the advantage of cheap living, were encamped the major portion of the most recently arrived emigrants, and, amongst the rest, those of the ship Brooklyn, on one of the passengers of which the inquest was about to be held.</P>
121.sgm:<P>We experienced considerable difficulty in finding the tent; but at last discovered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>But it appeared that they had set sail from New York with an insufficient supply of provisions, of which fact the passengers did not become aware until they had been some time at sea.  Nearly the whole of them were, in consequence, attacked with scurvy; but the captain refused to put in at Rio, Valparaiso, and Callao, where the necessary remedies and a fresh stock of provisions might have been procured.  Finding him inexorable to the appeal made to his humanity, they made up a purse of 500 dollars, with which they hoped to tempt his cupidity; still he refused.  The result was, that five of the passengers perished of this fearful malady, and were thrown overboard; the rest, including the young man in question, were landed at San Francisco in a state verging on dissolution.  The deceased had already lost part of his tongue, and turned black before he was set ashore to die; and it seems he had experienced the worst possible treatment at the hands of the captain, who accused him of feigning sickness; and indeed, had acted with extreme inhumanity to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>By the corpse stood a well-dressed, gentlemanly individual, who, upon ascertaining our business, desired us to seat ourselves on the boxes, which served in lieu of chairs; and going away, returned presently with several other persons, who fully confirmed his statements, and gave us additional and harrowing details of their sufferings.  This young man had himself been a sufferer.  He was by profession a dentist; and, in proof of his assertions as to the extent to which they had all been afflicted by the scourage, showed us his gums, which were in a sad state of irritation, and horribly disfigured.  At his request, as of that of the men whom he had fetched in, we went to see several of the other passengers, who were lying in adjacent tents.  We visited some eight or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>We signed a paper, recording, as our verdict, that the deceased had died of scurvy, and that his death had been accelerated by neglect on the part of the captain, who, a few days after, was brought to trial.  As, however, it turned out that the passengers had engaged to supply hemselves with provisions, and had neglected to provide them in sufficient quantities, he escaped punishment.</P>
121.sgm:<P>This, then, was the "Happy Valley;" a term no doubt applied to it in derision, taking into consideration the squalor, the discomfort, the filth, the misery, and the distress that were rife there.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>Unhealthiness of San Francisco--Prevalent maladies--Climate of California generally considered--Precautions to be observed by emigrants--Lack of women--Desirableness of female immigration--Mrs. Farnham's scheme frustrated--Advice to young ladies about to emigrate--Dear tooth-drawing--Dolores--The first street-organ in California--Success of enterprise--Competition even in itinerant music--Theatricals in California--Proclamation against foreigners digging in the mines--Consequences--French spirit <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
121.sgm:<P>The town of San Francisco did not appear to me--from the experience I had of it, and from the information I derived at the hands of others who had longer inhabited it--to be particularly healthy.  Rheumatism, fever, ague, and diarrh&oelig;a, were the prevalent maladies during the entire summer season, numerous deaths occurring from them every week.  One man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>We heard a great deal about the ravages the Asiatic cholera was making in the United States; but the general opinion in California was, that this country would escape it, as the high winds prevalent along the coast would blow it past us.  I do not know whether science would bear out the theory; but, however that may be, the cholera did not visit us.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>As to the climate of California, so many conflicting statements concerning it have been hazarded, that persons who have not visited the country may easily be led into error on this point, and can scarcely hope to form a correct opinion.  Independently considered, it may justly be pronounced as the healthiest in the world; for it presents every variety of atmosphere within a great extent of latitude.  If the emigrant's object be simply to find a congenial temperature, he can easily gratify his taste; but should circumstances compel him to reside in a locality the air of which is not suited to his particular constitution, the evil effect of living in it can only be effectually remedied by a due attention to diet and dress.  Too many persons neglect, or scorn to observe the requisite precautions on this head, exposing themselves to the sudden extremes of heat and cold peculiar to the climate, and, in their reckless pursuit after gold--heedless of every other consideration--contract diseases during their labours, which, if they do not always prove fatal, so undermine the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I have no hesitation in asserting that the neglecting of proper precautions on the part of the miners, has, by causing a large mortality amongst them, tended to propagate the belief that the climate is in itself unhealthy.  When, however, California shall have become thoroughly settled, and an abundance of good houses, of <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
121.sgm: or wood, shall have sprung up in its towns; when the people shall have returned to the legitimate pursuits incidental to a healthy state of society; when agriculture shall be practised more extensively, and the search after gold no longer be the absorbing passion of the emigrants, there will be fewer railers against the climate.  Even in San Francisco, where, during one entire season of the year, the weather is more intolerable and severe than in any other town along the whole coast, the carrying out of a regular system of building, drainage, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>It is also to be hoped that the tone of society will soon be altered for the better, by an influx of the gentler sex, whose influence alone can soften down the ruggedness of manner invariably observable where their presence cheers not, and their smiles are wanting; whose affections alone possess the power of weaning men from the pursuit of unlawful pleasures, and indulgence in enervating vices.  Hundreds, nay, thousands, who now know of no home save the groggery and the gambling-table, would be glad to abandon them for the sweeter enjoyments of a domestic hearth, cheered and enlivened by the society of a partner, and the lively prattle of innocent children.  Under the gentle influence which woman knows so well how to exercise, the brawler would become a quiet citizen; the spendthrift, careful; the indolent, industrious; the drunkard, sober; the gambler, a gamester <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>I am satisfied that much of the crime and lawlessness that is prevalent in California--particularly in towns like San Francisco, where the ruder sex are congregated exclusively and in large multitudes--is attributable to the want of the humanizing presence of women.  In San Francisco there were about ten thousand males, and scarcely a hundred females; for, although in many parts of California the latter outnumber the former, the national prejudice against colour was too strong for legitimate amalgamation to take place.  The attention of the people in the United States had been already directed to the question of encouraging female emigration to this country, as a means--although certainly an inadequate one--of relieving the industrial pressure on all classes in the manufacturing towns.  Thousands of young females, who were earning a bare subsistence by their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:needle, or in the factories, or by exercise of the very few callings adapted to their sex, might, it was considered, be advantageously transplanted here, and prove the means of entirely changing the aspect of society; whilst they themselves would be removed from poverty into comparative comfort.  So many obstacles presented themselves, however, that to carry out the experiment on a scale at all commensurate with the exigences of the case seemed literally hopeless.  The passage round Cape Horn was so long and tedious, that it deterred; and the journey across the Isthmus was far too expensive for the limited means of those who felt disposed to venture.  Nevertheless, one lady, a Mrs. Farnham, formerly the matron of Sing-Sing prison, well known by her writings on prison discipline, and admirably qualified, by her experience and knowledge, to ensure the success of such an undertaking, had striven hard to induce several young women to emigrate; and, failing in this, shipped herself, her two children, and a servant, intending to come and judge for herself, then to return and speak <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>But the news, nevertheless, reached San Francisco that the lady was actually on her way, with a large cargo of houris; and expectation stood on tiptoe, awaiting their arrival.  The excitement was immense, and the disappointment proportionate, when the real facts became known.  I verily believe there was more drunkenness, more gambling, more fighting, and more of everything that was bad, that night, than had ever before occurred in San Francisco within any similar space of time.</P>
121.sgm:<P>If the interesting cargo had arrived, no doubt exists but that the whole of the young women would have done well in the various occupations to which they were adapted, and which fall so especially within their province.  Their services were required in so many ways, that they could have procured their own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:terms, and would have realized as much money as the male speculators.  Laundresses, to wit--male ones--were charging at the rate of nine dollars per dozen, or six shillings per shirt.  It is true that the female emigrants would have had at first to encounter many hardships, perhaps actual privations, besides other domestic inconveniences, with annoyances and discomforts peculiar to the circumstances, and requiring, on their part, the exercise of no ordinary share of prudence and industry.  Yet, under proper regulations and due protection, their prospects could not but have been materially improved; and, even in the absence of the latter, it is no compliment to virtue to assert that it possesses the power of enforcing respect for itself.  Whilst expressing my opinions thus freely on so important a subject, I must not be understood as asserting that every class of females would do well in California.  Young ladies, whose accomplishments have been confined to acquiring proficiency in music, or in fancy-work, would do better to remain at home.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>To return, however, to my own affairs.  I found that, though I was earning money rapidly, it was at the expense of my health, and that I must soon determine to lie by and recruit my strength, or else return home.  But the influx of strangers, whilst it increased my business, forbade me to relax in my efforts, lest I should be shut out from the field by more active--or at least healthier--competitors.  I thought of going to Pueblo, which was milder, in respect of its climate, or to Monterey, which, during the summer months, was pleasant enough; but in neither of these places would my services have been in demand.  There was Sacramento city, again; but numbers of persons were daily quitting it, sufferers from fever, ague, and mosquitoes.  Under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:these circumstances, I determined to return home, after remaining a while longer in San Francisco.  But, as I felt unable to carry on so extensive a business as we had now got, I effected an amicable separation from my partner, and, having sold our tent for two hundred dollars, hired a small room, where I devoted myself exclusively to the less laborious branches of painting; yet still receiving more orders than I could execute.  I was, however, fortunate enough to retain the services of a man who had formerly worked for me, and who, being a person of talent, greatly contributed to my success.  Still, the life I led was wretchedly uncomfortable, and I began to feel the effects of constant exposure to the inclemency of the weather, and of the want of regular rest; for, during my whole stay in California, I had not slept more than one week on a bed.  It was almost impossible to keep on one's feet, out of doors, the wind blowing fiercely and without cessation; and, having exposed myself more carelessly than usual to its influence, I suffered such severe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>Finding that the sufferings I endured were incapacitating me for exertion, I endeavoured to obtain a few days' respite from my occupations, in the hope that a little change might do me good.  Hiring a horse for the day, at the moderate sum of twelve dollars, I rode into the country.  But the neighbourhood of San Francisco is by no means of an attractive character, and I derived but little pleasure from these excursions.  Pushing on, one day, to the Mission of Dolores, of which I had heard such glowing accounts, I was disappointed to find it an insignificant Californian village, without any sort of accommodation for travellers.  The only house that pretended to the character of an inn, <HI REND="italics">La Cabesa del</HI>
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121.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Toro</HI>
121.sgm:<P>Dolores is famous for bull-fighting, horse-racing, and gambling; and, being much frequented by the citizens, I was surprised that some enterprising Yankee had not established a good hotel there.  Being the only place to which the inhabitants of San Francisco can resort, without travelling a great distance, I am confident that Dolores will ere long become a thriving little town.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Whilst stopping here, I saw a smart-looking Yankee and a Spanish girl married by the priest, whose words were interpreted to the bridegroom as the ceremony proceeded: the lady was of rather a dark complexion, but extremely pretty; and, although she knew scarcely a word of English, and the bridegroom knew still less of Spanish, it was evident, from the eloquence of the glances that passed between them, that they were at no loss to make themselves understood.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I returned to San Francisco with a large party, amongst whom was my last partner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A SERENADE--UPPER CALIFORNIA.</P>
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121.sgm:and Jack Power, one of the sporting characters of the country.  Jack had been a volunteer; and, on the disbanding of the regiment, becoming infected with the excitement and adventurous character of the wild life which he had led since his arrival in the country, had devoted himself entirely to gambling and horsemanship, in both of which accomplishments he greatly excelled.  Previous to my becoming acquainted with him, he had been up to Stocton, and in an incredibly short time had amassed, at his favourite pursuits, about fifty thousand dollars, the greater part of which he had subsequently lost.  No matter how low the state of his finances, he was never without a good horse, caparisoned in the true Californian fashion; and that on which he was now mounted was one of the most beautiful I had ever seen.  It had, however, this striking peculiarity, that it would never gallop straight forward towards any given point, but would advance in a sort of sidelong canter, very pleasing to behold, but requiring great skill on the part of the rider to maintain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Apropos</HI>
121.sgm:<P>I rushed out to behold the adventurous Savoyard who had traversed half the globe to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>I sighed as I reflected that the fortunate Savoyard who had been the first to venture to the shores of the new El-Dorado, and upon whom its treasures were now lavishly showered, in pieces of silver, by the bystanders, was probably but the precursor of a shoal of those light-hearted, but ill-treated little beings, who are destined to toil and wear out a miserable existence, for the enrichment of their harsh and unfeeling taskmasters.</P>
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121.sgm:<P>This Columbus of street-musicians became a person of considerable importance in San Francisco, and was handsomely rewarded for his performances, wherever he went.  Never, probably, had one of his class attained such high consideration.  The melodious strains of his instrument never failed to arouse the enthusiasm of the home-sick; whilst the tricks of the monkey served to amuse the leisure of the rough miners, who were incapable of entering into the feelings inspired by his music.  He was admitted into all the hotels; and many a rough jig or reel was improvisated to music never arranged to such a profane measure--the <HI REND="italics">arias</HI>
121.sgm:<P>But, alas, the subsequent career of the Savoyard was not destined to prove an exception to the usual course of mundane <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>Shortly afterwards, several Spanish singers and a few dancers gave a performance in the town, which proved a complete failure.  The <HI REND="italics">artistes</HI>
121.sgm: were persons of talent, and complained bitterly of the want of taste displayed by the Americans.  But the cause of their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:failure was evident.  The entertainment consisted chiefly of selections from celebrated Italian operas; and it certainly could not be reasonably expected that the rough denizens of San Francisco should appreciate this character of music.  Although their want of success was also in some degree attributed to the high price of the tickets (five dollars each), I do not think that it at all influenced it; for in every instance in which any thoroughly English or Yankee amusement had been introduced, no matter how high the prices of admission, it had been eagerly resorted to; the people in the town being literally driven to their wits' end to find some innocent means of enjoyment.  From the first moment that the project of erecting a theatre here was started, I felt convinced that it would effect a considerable reformation in the habits of the population, and that the gambling-houses and grog-stores would lose at least one half of their <HI REND="italics">habitue&acute;s.</HI>
121.sgm: The result of the erection of the theatre here has fully borne out this conclusion; and if the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>Whilst on this subject, I may as well mention, that the first theatrical performances that ever took place in California were given in Pueblo de Los Angelos, by some of the volunteers, with such scenery, costumes, and music, as the country and their own ingenuity could supply them.  The next came off at Sonoma, where several of the same company of Thespians made their appearance.  These were, of course, mere amateur attempts; but still they are interesting, as serving to note the progress of this amusement.  The performances were, in general, well attended.  At the close of the season, in August, 1848, the "Golden Farmer," "The Omnibus," and a Russian comedy called "Feodora," translated from the German of Kotzebue by a resident of Sonoma, were the last pieces played.  Amongst the company performing at present in San Francisco, there are few, if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>During my residence in San Francisco, General Smith, in coming up the coast to supersede Colonel Mason as Governor of California, issued a proclamation, to the effect that no foreigners would be allowed to work in the mines.  This, however, had but little effect; and hundreds flocked daily into San Francisco from Chili, Peru, and the Sandwich Islands.  The influx of strangers created great discontent, both in the "diggins" and the larger towns, as the enormous increase of the population interfered everywhere with the interests of the Americans.  On the North and South American Forks, the Oregon men, and some of the Yankees, who had arrived by water, came to the determination to drive them from that mine.  A meeting was held at Sutter's Mill, to decide upon the most summary means to be adopted for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:accomplishment of their object.  The strongest arguments were used on the occasion in favour of their immediate expulsion; the Chilians, Sonoreans, Peruvians, and Mexicans, being more particularly designated as having no right to work in the mines.  Some of the persons present at the meeting objected to this measure being carried out; amongst whom, I believe, were several traders.  This is not surprising, however; the latter regarding it as a matter of indifference whether they dealt with Yankees or Californians, provided they could sell their goods.  The meeting resolved to give all the above denominations of foreigners warning to leave, in the course of the day; and, in case they failed to do so, to drive them away by force of arms.  The intimation was given, and these unfortunate persons immediately took their departure.  Some of the miners, however, not satisfied with this wholesale proscription, endeavoured to drive away the Europeans also.  There were, in a retired part of these "diggins" at the time, four Frenchmen; three of whom, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:apprehensive of consequences, expressed themselves in favour of leaving, but the fourth persuaded them to stay.  When the Yankees came round to drive them off, this man said that he had been eleven years a resident of the United States, and that he would not budge a step, as he considered himself as good a citizen as any in the "diggins."  They might shoot him, or do with him as they pleased, but he was determined not to leave.  This exhibition of spirit, on his part, was duly appreciated, and the party were allowed to remain.  During all the subsequent disturbances, in various parts of the mining districts, there was a wide distinction made between the Europeans generally, and persons tinctured with Spanish blood; a strong proof that, notwithstanding our complete triumph over the Mexicans in the late war, and the return of peace, a feeling of bitter prejudice and animosity still existed.  When it is considered, however, that from these Spanish races came an immense majority of the foreigners in the country, who interfered more particularly with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>The Indians occasionally gave great annoyance to the miners, both Americans and Spaniards.  I have been assured, I know not with what truth, that their hatred of the latter is far greater, owing to the persecution they had suffered at their hands.  But they inflicted some dreadful outrages upon the former, on various occasions.  On the Middle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>These two men went to the mill to report the circumstance; and a party of forty men, headed by Captain M'Kay, himself an Indian by birth, took their rifles and went in pursuit of the murderers to a <HI REND="italics">rancherie</HI>
121.sgm:, about ten miles farther north.  the place to which they proceeded contains about twenty rude dwellings, made of brushwood and sticks, each of them large enough to contain three or four men and their squaws.  On coming in sight, the Americans found the <HI REND="italics">rancherie</HI>
121.sgm: crowded with about three hundred Indians.  The former immediately discharged their rifles, killing about thirty of them; and the rest scampered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>One of the women declaring that these seven men had been engaged in the late murders, the latter were about to be executed, when the ringleader, suddenly making signs to his companions, and uttering a shout, they all burst through the guard surrounding them, and fled.  Three of them were shot while endeavouring to cross the river; another was stabbed by an American, while running up a hill on the other side; and the rest, amongst whom was the chief of the party, made their escape.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I have said nothing as yet with respect to the population of California, the continual influx of strangers rendering the subject mere matter of speculation.  Judging from my own personal observation, I should say that there were not more than 25,000 inhabitants in both the upper and lower countries, previous to the discovery of the gold mines.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:Within a couple of years, the population of Alta-California has increased so enormously, as almost to outstrip calculation.  There is no possible means of taking a correct census; but still we have certain data, from which we may arrive at a tolerably exact estimate for the present year.  Since the Americans first took full possession of Alta-California, the number of inhabitants had been gradually increasing, many having been induced to settle there by the prospect of a better system of government than had existed under the Mexicans.  But the gold-mania soon caused a large flow of emigration; and we find that, at the commencement of 1849, the population of the upper country alone amounted to nearly that number.  If we examine the statistics furnished with respect to the arrivals in Upper California during the year 1849, we shall find an increase of about 95,000.  To this must be added about 9,000, as the population of the lower country.  It will not appear strange that the latter place has not had any considerable accession to the number <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>A great sensation has recently been created here by the discovery of veins of gold in the quartz rock in the mines, the proportion of gold being, in many instances, that of 1.50 to every pound of rock.  The greater number of the present class of miners will, however, reap no benefit from it.  In my opinion, the time is fast approaching when these persons will find it impossible to earn more than sufficent to support life by this miserable drudgery; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>Political excitement--Preliminary steps towards the adoption of a constitution--Meeting of the Convention--The slavery question--Arrival of an important political personage--Determination to return to the States--Jemmy Twitcher--Parental interest for a prodigal son--A Michael Angelo in search of fortune--A Frenchman in search of his wife.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the excitement continually kept up in the public mind by the reports of fresh discoveries in the mines, or of remarkable instances of individual success in the working of them, the attention of the Americans soon became directed towards the discussion and settlement of those political questions, which, wherever they congregate and locate, will always form the chief object and business of life with a people devoted to the propagandism of republican opinions.  It would be difficult for the cooler headed and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:less progressive European, to picture to himself the intense anxiety that existed here, amongst all classes of the population, for the formation and adoption of a constitution for California that would reconcile the conflicting prejudices of the two great parties with the existing circumstances and future prospects of the country.  For a lengthened period, owing to the difficulty of arriving at anything like unanimity, as well as to the disorderly and lawless state of our new territory, it had been considered utterly impossible to take even the most simple preparatory steps towards effecting that object.  Numerous obstacles presented themselves, in the divisions into which the people had split, respecting the nomination of candidates as delegates to the Convention.  Those who appeared most eligible, were either designated the pets of the aristocratic, or of the ultra-democratic or disorderly party; and at every preliminary meeting a great deal of unnecessary and rather personal discussion took place, as to their respective merits, which of course greatly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>As to the admission of slavery into the territory, respecting which a considerable degree of apprehension had been manifested, both at home and abroad, no one who had been any length of time in the country felt the least doubt as to the course they would pursue.  Owing to the fact of there being many Southern gentlemen of considerable influence in California, it was at first thought that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:would strain every nerve for its introduction.  The contrary, however, soon became evident.  Many of those men, finding, on mature consideration, that it would be impossible to carry out their views, had the good sense to come round to those of the opposite party.  The only fear entertained was, that the representatives of the Northern and Southern States might, in the determined pertinacity with which they advocated the interests of their respective constituents, so delay the final settlement of this great question, as to keep the new settlers in a state of prolonged suspense and anxiety.  Previous to the year 1847, the Federal Government had decided the question of slavery in its territories; but it was subsequently discovered, by a junta of politicians at Washington, that this was an act of interference wholly unauthorized by the constitution--that, in fact, all the acts, from that relating to the North-Western Boundary, in 1789, to that for the Oregon territory, in 1847, were mere usurpations, and that the people alone had the power to introduce or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>It must be owned that, in arriving at this decision, the Americans took as much an interested as a philanthropical view of the question; and I am not prepared to say, that had they held possession of the lower country, greater difficulties might not have presented themselves to its solution.  No class of white men can there perform the labour necessary for the thorough cultivation of the land, and the working of the mineral resources in which I feel confident it abounds.  In Upper California, the case is altogether different.  There, slave labour would be brought into direct competition with that of the Americans themselves; and, as the latter are now more than sufficient in number for every agricultural and mechanical requirement, the consequences <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>Whilst the fever of political excitement agitated the minds of the inhabitants of San Francisco, the arrival by one of the steamers of a personage of some importance in the North American and European cities, but until now unfamiliar to the inhabitants of San Francisco, caused no slight sensation and amusement amongst us.  Let the reader picture to himself the ludicrous effect of one of the newsboys of New York suddenly presenting himself on the Plaza, with a large bundle of the daily and weekly journals of that city, and dinning our ears with cries to which we had long been unaccustomed.  The idea was a happy one; and the adventurous little fellow, having disposed of his whole stock of papers at prices averaging from one to two dollars each, retired well pleased with the result of his experiment.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I had been gradually making up my mind to return to the United States; and the period had now arrived for putting my determination <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>It is unquestionable, that in no other part of the world can money be more easily acquired; but, when we take into account the sufferings endured in its acquisition, and the relatively high prices paid for all the necessaries of life, it is very much to be doubted whether the same amount of industry and self-denial would not obtain equal results in more civilized countries.  There were, besides, many circumstances that foreshadowed to me a future replete with difficulties and privations.  The winter was fast setting in; and I felt that I could not pursue my avocations continually exposed to the heavy rains which were certain to deluge the town.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:success that attended my first efforts had, besides, exposed me to competition; and, in the keen struggle for existence that I knew must inevitably ensue amongst a population increasing at a ratio without parallel, I felt that I exposed myself to the chances of ruining my health in the pursuit of a chimera.  Shortly before leaving, I had numberless applications for employment from persons in my line, even in the very best part of the year for mining; and I knew from this and many other concurrent facts, that during the winter my trade would decrease to such and extent, that I should be obliged to support myself on my previous earnings.  I subsequently learned that all my anticipations had been fully realized; the tide of population that flowed into San Francisco became so enormous, that the prices of all the necessaries of life almost doubled in value; while that of labour descended in an inverse ratio.  The streets were deluged with water; and those who pursued any sort of mechanical occupation, were compelled to work up to their knees in fetid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>From the prices that I have occasionally mentioned, people may run away with the notion that they are uniformly extravagant as regards all descriptions of merchandise.  Such, however, is not the fact.  During the latter part of my residence here, I have seen many articles sold at a trifling advance on the New York prices, and some at a complete sacrifice.  The fluctuations in the value of commodities are so extraordinary, that I have frequently seen large fortunes made by the same articles in the course of a month; but next summer prices will no doubt become steadier, and must ultimately find their level.</P>
121.sgm:<P>My readers are doubtless curious to know whether, in this land of almost fabulous wealth, there are any persons so unfavoured by fortune <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>As I sat smoking a cigar in one of the hotels of the town, shortly before my departure, I happened to overhear the following rather amusing conversation amongst a group of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>"I say, Jemmy," said a tall, rakish-looking fellow, with his hat set jauntily on one side of his head, "you must let us hear that letter from your respectable parent; it's capital."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I'm hanged if I do!" replied Twitcher, with an air of affected reluctance, belied by a smile that played round the corners of his mouth.  "You are always pestering me about that letter; this is the tenth time you've asked me to read it."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Well, give it to me, and I'll read it.  It does one's heart good to find such simplicity in this wicked world.  Oh, Jemmy! the old man little knows what an infernal scoundrel you are."</P>
121.sgm:<P>Twitcher, little affected by the compliment, produced a dirty and crumpled piece of paper, which the other read aloud, amidst the laughter of the company.  It ran, as nearly as I can remember, in the following terms:--</P>
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121.sgm:<P>"Dear Jim--I take this opportunity to write you a bit of a note, hoping it will find you well, as I am at present.  We're very anxious about you since you left, but have some comfort in the thought that you are doing so well.  [ <HI REND="italics">A laugh</HI>
121.sgm:.]  I would go out myself, but am too old; and besides, the voyage is expensive, and I couldn't sell the blind horse--[ <HI REND="italics">another laugh</HI>
121.sgm: ]--but I'm doing purty well with the cart, thank God.  Howsomever, I might be doing better; but that's neither here nor there.  We have wonderful news here from the mines.  I was talking the other day with a young chap who had been all through them, and he told me a heap of curious things that I didn't believe, at first, was true; but he offered to take his Bible oath, an' I didn't think then I could disbelieve him.  He said, says he, `When I was in a place called the Divil's Diggins, by reason of its being such a horrid, gloomy lookin' gulche, the winter came on, an' we hadn't anything left to eat but a prairie dog we'd killed two days afore.  But one of my companions was loath <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:to touch it; so he goes over to another tent, where they wasn't quite so short, but still purty hard up.  `I saw a chap squatted on the ground,' says he, `going like a streak of lightnin' into a dish of beans;' and he offered him first a pound, thin two, and at last, after bein' refused every time, twenty pounds of goold for the dish, which the other chap sold at that price.'  Send me word, when you write, if these things is true.  I suppose you'll be a rich man, Jemmy, when you come back; for I don't think you can help it; but, at any rate, come back soon.  We're anxious to see you home.  Come back.  <HI REND="italics">If you hav'nt got much</HI>
121.sgm:, come with what <HI REND="italics">you've got</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Your affectionate father,</P>
121.sgm:<P>"ISAAC TWITCHER."</P>
121.sgm:<P>The conclusion of this characteristic epistle elicited shouts of laughter from the company; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>"Let me see, now," said he, putting his hands into his pockets, "how much I <HI REND="italics">have</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Jemmy," said another of the party, "you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>"What's the odds?" returned Twitcher.  "I came out here to see life; and, if the worst comes to the worst, I'll stick in California."</P>
121.sgm:<P>Finding it necessary one day to purchase some architectural designs, to aid me in the preparation of plans that I had contracted to furnish, I directed my steps towards a crowd of tents in the centre of the town, which formed a sort of "broker's alley," and where I thought it possible I might find them.  I visited several of these places without success, and was abandoning the search in despair, when I met a friend, who told me that he could take me to a place where I might possibly obtain what I required.  I accordingly accompanied him to a tent, where I found a sickly looking young foreigner, rather fashionably dressed, who, on learning my business, opened a large portfolio full of engravings, lithographs, and original drawings, many of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:the former being from the works of Raphael, Claude Lorraine, Poussin, Guido, &amp;c., with some of the best specimens of Jullien's beautiful studies <HI REND="italics">aux deux crayons</HI>
121.sgm:<P>His history was the old story of the painter's life--early enthusiasm--unsuccessful struggles--a broken spirit.  Unable, by the closest application, to earn more than a bare subsistence, he had laid aside his profession in disgust--wandered to the coast of South America in search of better fortunes; and there, hearing of the discovery of the gold mines, had made the best of his way to San Francisco.  A being more unfitted for the rough trials and privations that awaited him in the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
121.sgm: could scarcely be found; for, judging from his attenuated and hectic appearance, the seeds of consumption were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>Ere I conclude this chapter, which brings me to the eve of my departure from San Francisco, I must not omit to mention a little incident, which, though common-place enough in itself, will serve to illustrate the reckless spirit of adventure that drives so many emigrants to the shores of this country.</P>
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121.sgm:<P>Passing through the streets one day, I was accosted by a smart-looking Frenchman, who endeavoured to make me understand something in broken English, in which, owing to his almost entire innocence of the language, all that I could comprehend were the words "Madame Alphonse!"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Que voulez vous dire, Monsieur</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Dieu! vous parlez Franc&cedil;ais, Monsieur! Qu'elle chance.  Je cherche l'addresse d'une dame, Madame Alphonse, enfin, mon e&acute;pouse, qui demeure a ce qu'on dit dans cette ville</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Vous e&circ;tes nouvellement arrive&acute;? comment se fait il que vous ne connaissiez pas l'addresse de votre femme</HI>
121.sgm:<P>M. Alphonse appeared rather embarrassed by the question, but, immediately recovering his self-possession, replied--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Oui, Monsieur; je ne suis arrive&acute; qu'hier.  Le fait est que les affaires e&acute;taient si mauvaises a&grave; Paris, depuis la revolution de Fe&acute;vrier, qu'il n'y avait pas de quoi gagner du</HI>
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121.sgm:<HI REND="italics">pain.  Moi je suis tailleur, Monsieur, et ma femme est blanchisseuse de fin.  Son cousin Jean Bigot, le carrossier, (vous le connaissez sans doute) e&acute;tant venu un jour nous annoncer son de&acute;part pour San Francisco, nouveau pays de Cocagne ou on n'avait qu'a&grave; se baisser pour ramasser de l'or, ma petite e&acute;cervele&acute;e de femme se mit en te&circ;te de l'accompagner, m'assurant que les blanchisseuses de fin gagnaient dans ce pays de l'argent gros comme elle et me promettant surtout que sito&circ;t qu'elle serait bien case&acute;e elle m'ecrirait de venir la rejoindre.  Mais fichtre! le temps se passait et n'entendant pas parler d'elle, je suis venu sans attendre plus long temps lui me&acute;nageant l'agre&acute;able surprise de me voir arriver!  J'ai vendu mon mobilier, dispose&acute; de tous les fonds que j'avais pour acheter une pacotille, et me voila&grave; a&grave; sa recherche.  Vous pouvez, sans doute, m'indiquer son addresse</HI>
121.sgm:<P>Smiling at the simplicity of the Frenchman, who, it was plain, had been made to play the part of the " <HI REND="italics">mari complaisant</HI>
121.sgm:," in a common enough incident of Parisian life, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:assured him that I was unable to furnish him with any sort of clue to the whereabouts of the lady.  He seemed very much surprised at this, being duly impressed with the talents and importance of his <HI REND="italics">che&grave;re e&acute;pouse</HI>
121.sgm:, and fully convinced that the whole town of San Francisco must have been equally cognizant of her merits.  Feeling rather interested in the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;nouement</HI>
121.sgm:<P>On our way to this person's residence, a small square tent, with the words " <HI REND="italics">Bavon, tailleur, de Paris</HI>
121.sgm:<P>To the anxious inquiries of M. Alphonse, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:as to whether he could tell him anything of Madame or her cousin, " <HI REND="italics">un grand beau garcon, avec des cheveux blnds, et des moustaches rouges, qui se nommait Bigot</HI>
121.sgm:," M. Bavon replied, that he had never heard of them, and that he very much doubted if any such persons were living in the town.  The countenance of the poor fellow became sadly troubled at this intelligence; but, soon recovering his composure, he put some fresh questions to M. Bavon respecting the chances of his trade in San Francisco.  The latter replied, that it would be folly for any man to enter into the business, as the people, generally speaking, preferred ready-made clothing, having but little time to wait for the execution of orders; that the little trade he himself possessed consisted principally in making alterations, it being useless to try and compete with the ready-made clothing stores; and that, were it not for a few regular customers he had amongst some gentlemen of the town, who liked to appear in the European style, he would have been obliged to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:shut up shop long since.  This put the finishing stroke to poor M. Alphonse, whose hopes of recovering his truant spouse, and of realizing advantageously the contents of his little <HI REND="italics">pacotille</HI>
121.sgm:<P>When we left the tent, I was fairly overwhelmed  with questions by the two foreigners, to neither of whom my answers conveyed much encouragement.  The shoemaker was evidently the poorer of the two; and, although I foresaw that the information I had to give him would cause him dreadful disappointment, I felt that it would be rendering him a service to disabuse his mind of the illusions under which he laboured.  I told him that I had never seen more than one good shoemaker at work in the country, and that was at the mission of San Jose&acute; that it was impossible to obtain a supply of tanned leather for the manufacture of boots and shoes; and that, even had he the material to work upon, he could never compete with the Yankees, who imported immense quantities of them from the States, selling them in summer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>The Frenchman had brought out a large quantity of goods, chiefly clothing; but, finding the town already overstocked with such articles, and the little ready money he had with him fast running out, he was compelled to dispose of them at a ruinous sacrifice, and went up shortly after to the mines.  What ultimately became of him I am unable to say; although, I must own, I feel rather curious to learn whether he is still <HI REND="italics">a la recherche de Madame Alphonse</HI>
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121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>Departure from San Francisco--A moral deduced from painful experience--Penalties paid for the pursuit of wealth--O'Reilly on his return from the land of gold--News of old friends--Dr. Freu&uml;nd in a scrape--Riot on board--First trip of the California steamer to Panama.</P>
121.sgm:<P>1<HI REND="italics">st September</HI>
121.sgm:, 1849.  With what feelings of joy and thankfulness do I again find myself tossing on the broad, undulating bosom of the Pacific!--on board an ill-appointed and crowded steamer, it is true; but, for the nonce, a model of nautical perfection in my eyes; for she is <HI REND="italics">homeward bound</HI>
121.sgm:.  Such a world of pleasurable sensations is comprised in that simple word, that it renders me indifferent, for the moment, to all the inconveniences and annoyances by which I am surrounded; not the least of which, I must own, are the eternal grumblings of my fellow passengers.  To speak the truth, my roving inclinations have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:been amazingly sobered down by the experience of the last eighteen months; and my inveterate love of adventure has been so completely extinguished in me by the comfortless bivouacs and rheumatic <HI REND="italics">souvenirs</HI>
121.sgm:<P>On whatever part of the vessel I cast my eye, I find it crowded with representatives from almost every nation of the globe, the natives of Chili and Peru forming what an Irish elector would call "the dirty majority."  Although they are, most of them, returning with money, they are as filthy and poverty-stricken a looking an assemblage as could well be found out of the precincts of St. Giles's.  Most of the Americans on board are suffering from the effects of intermittent fever, ague, and rheumatism, diseases contracted in the insane pursuit of an object, which some of them are never destined to enjoy.  The evidences of broken constitutions, crippled limbs, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:numerous attendant "ills that flesh is heir to," are too manifest to be mistaken in the shrunken and wasted forms that lie groaning and shivering in every variety of recumbent position upon the decks.  One of these poor sufferes has evidently been a tall and powerfully built man, with a fine, intellectual cast of features.  He tells me that he is a physician by profession; and, having been attracted by the hope of realizing an independence in a less slow and painful manner than by his profession, he had abandoned it, and crossed the mountains to try his chances at the mines.  Soon after his arrival there, he was attacked by both fever and ague, and became so enfeebled by their ravages, that he preferred returning home, unsuccessful, to running the chance of ending his days by a slow and lingering death in that wild region.  The poor doctor's berth consists of a couple of trunks in the steerage part of the vessel, on which he has hardly room to stretch his aching limbs, owing to the number of invalids that are crowded together.  Beside him lies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>I had not been on board long, when, as I was arranging my baggage in the order in which it was to remain during the voyage, I heard a well-known voice sing out my name; and, on looking towards the place from whence the sounds proceeded, beheld the plump, ruddy face of O'Reilly, grinning and nodding at me from one of the upper bunks.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"It's myself that's glad to see you," said the worthy fellow, after a hearty grip of the hand.  "I was afraid that you had kicked the bucket, like many of our old chums, never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>"Oh, I have not forgotten the affair, I promise you; for my body was mapped with red lines, by the thorns, for a fortnight afterwards.  Bless me, how fat you have grown since I saw you last!  Why, you must have stumbled upon some vein of milk and honey in this land of starvation!"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The devil a bit of it!  I've been livin' on tobacco-smoke and point ever since I've been at the mines.  There's nothing that swells a man out like that sort of prog; but the worst of it is, if you happen to meet with any hard rubs while you're feedin' on it, you've a chance of collapsing in a minute."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"By the by," said I, smiling at the conceit, "what sort of luck have you had at the mines?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, I did purty fair, considherin'.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>"You don't mean to say that you are married?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Me married!  No, by Jabers! though it's my own fault.  A rich <HI REND="italics">ranchero's</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Hold hard, O'Reilly!  I've heard that story before," hastily interrupted I, apprehensive that he was about to inflict on me one of those unconscionable yarns in which he was in the habit of indulging, and which generally went to show the high degree of estimation in which he was held by the <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
121.sgm:, and the overpowering anxiety of the wealthy <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
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121.sgm:<P>"Have you heard or seen anything of the sergeant of company D?  How did he get along at the mines?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, he has done capitally.  You know he carried up a quantity of provisions, and, as soon as he got a little to rights, fell to tradin' with the wild Ingins; and, being a knowin' Yankee, gammoned them out of an immense sight o' gold.  Although we worked like niggers, we couldn't come near him at all: so that it's my private opinion thradin' is a divilish dale more profitable than diggin'.  The sergeant is now captain and part owner of a brig running up the Sacramento."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Then he's fairly on the road to fortune.  Did you see or hear anything of Drew, while you were in the diggins?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes: he cut a great swell in Stocton and in San Francisco, before your arrival there.  He has made and lost thousands of dollars by gamblin'; although he found it hard enough to raise the tin in Monterey.  I heard of his sellin' his best pair of pants there, to raise a few dollars for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:gaming table.  I don't know what's become of him; but he's sure to go to the divil, unless, after makin' a good haul, he has sense enough to clear out, and have done with it.  That's the only way for them sort of customers.  You remember Harry Wilson?  He has started a ferry on one of the rivers, and is makin' money hand over fist.  Wettermark is knockin' about somewhere in the neighbourhood of San Francisco, boat-building, and doing carpenters' work.  He is the same quare old 'coon as ever, and is always grumblin', and complainin', and turning his hand to every fiddle faddle that strikes his fancy.  As for any chance <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"And the German Doctor?  What's become of him?"</P>
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121.sgm:<P>"He got into a little bit of scrape in the Stanislaus, an' was as near as an ace gettin' scragged for it.  Did you never hear of that affair?  Well, I'll tell you all about it.  He had occasion to go down, one day, to a thradin' store, to buy some physic, when who does he meet but Liftinent M--, of the volunteers, who stopped him, and tould him that he must get down off the horse he was ridin', as it was his property.  Freu&uml;nd refused, sayin' that he had obtained the horse from a Spaniard in Monterey, in exchange for one of his revolvin' pistols; and, havin' come by it fairly, he saw no raison why he should give it up.  If M-- insisted on it, however, he was ready to go before the Alcalde.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"`You d--'d Dutchman!' roared the Liftinant, (you know how passionate he was) `if you don't instantly give up my horse, I'll see if I can't make you do it, without appealin' to any humbug of an Alcalde.'</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The Doctor wheeled round, and was ri in away, when the Liftinant galloped after him, flourishin' a long bowie-knife in his hand, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>"I am sincerely rejoiced at it; for, from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>"Yes; he was knockin' about in the mines for awhile, sometimes diggin', an' sometimes dhrivin' a thrade in physic; for we had lots of sickness.  At last, he fell ill himself; and, like the rest of those humbugs of docthors, couldn't manage to cure himself.  Freu&uml;nd behaved very good-naturedly to him, when he saw he was goin', an', forgettin' the ould spiteful feelin' that was between them, attended him night and day, until he gave up the ghost.  Well, I can't say that any of us was very much cut up at losin' him; for he was a bitter enemy, and a quare enough friend.  Afther he was buried, one of our counthrymen, who had an old grudge against him, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>"Let me hear it."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh! I'm not shure that I can remember it; but, as well as I can recollect, it ran thus:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>`Planted like rotting seed beneath this bank,<LB>Never to vegetate, lies Doctor Hank.<LB>For where would death and desolation stop,<LB>If Judson jalap grew into a crop?<LB>The sexton's patron, the grave-digger's pride--<LB>The coffin-market fell when Judson died.'<LB></HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Why, it is nothing more than a paraphrase of the well known epitaph on a late eccentric Irish physician.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"You don't say so!  And the blackguard wanted to persuade us that he had composed every word of it himself!"</P>
121.sgm:<P>We were now running down the Pacific, with the wind in our favour, and making at the rate of from eight to eleven knots an hour.  Notwithstanding the debilitated state of my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:health at starting, I had not been more than two days at sea when I began to feel the invigorating effect of the sea breezes.  I completely recovered the tone of my spirits, and felt as if I had shaken off the heavy feeling of despondency and mental apathy that had preyed upon me in San Francisco.  This was singular enough, seeing the effect produced by the change on most of my fellow passengers.  Those who had hitherto resisted the influence of the climate, and of constant exposure and hardship, now began to experience chronic symptoms, to which they had not before been subject; whilst the confirmed invalids did not derive that benefit from the sea air, which, under other circumstances, might have been expected.  Notwithstanding his apparently robust health, O'Reilly was one of the first affected; and, under the combined inroads of ague and fever, his plump figure soon realized his own absurd simile of a collapse.  I never saw so great a change effected in any one in so short a time.  His gaiety of spirits seemed to have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>I have already incidentally alluded to the disgraceful state of the vessel.  Before we had been many days at sea, we found our worst anticipations confirmed; and a disturbance, approaching to a riot, was the consequence.  Nothing could have been worse than the arrangements made for our accommodation, the provisions being not only insufficient, but of the most inferior description, and the number of passengers sent on board by the agent greater than the vessel could, with any degree of comfort, afford room for.  An additional subject of complaint was the fact that the Chilians, who had first come on board, had appropriated to themselves a number of bunks to which they were not entitled.  There were seven or eight volunteers on board, and they resolved to put an end to this state of things.  Going to the Captain in a body, they represented to him that they had been crowded out of their berths by the foreigners, and that they conceived they had a right to be treated with at least equal consideration.  The Captain, at first, paid no attention to their remonstrances; but, finding them determined, he promised to have a more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>The greater part of the Americans, many of them invalids, had been obliged to take the alternative of sleeping upon their trunks, or of lying down on a filthy deck, crowded in almost every part, while the foreigners occupied their berths.  The fare in this quarter of the vessel was eighty dollars; and yet the food and treatment the passengers received were fit only for pigs.  Nor was the food of the cabin-passengers much better, although they paid the high price of two hundred and fifty dollars; the only advantages they possessed over the others consisting in a slight,--a very slight, difference in the attention paid to the cleanliness of their berths, and the privilege, if it could be called so, of a regular table.  It was painful to witness the scrambles that daily took place at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>Whilst on the subject of these steamers, I may as well mention some curious particulars that I learned from one of the passengers respecting the first trip of the California steamer to Panama.  She sailed on the 1st of May, as advertised, with Governor Mason and several other persons of note on board.  During the passage, a Portuguese sailor, whilst relieving the man at the wheel, had some altercation with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:him as to whether it was the proper time for the relief.  One of the passengers who was standing by heard the foreman say, "Half-past one;" and, being something of an alarmist, immediately concluded that the sailors intended to murder the passengers at that hour next morning.  The matter was talked over in the cabin amongst a party of wise heads and a few timid women; and the result of the conference was, that they arrived at the conclusion that the sailors were actually going to seize the ship at the appointed time.  Every movement of the sailors was now minutely watched by the passengers; so that, if Jack had occasion to go for a rope-yarn, a marlinespike, or a bucket, he was supposed to be making preparations for a wholesale massacre.  At this time, the vessel happened to be within 250 miles of Panama; and, her supply of coal having been all consumed, she was going only at the rate of two knots an hour, under canvass.  At nine o'clock, P.M., all the muskets, pistols, and cutlasses, on board, were served out to the passengers, who were divided into parties, and supplied with a bottle of brandy to each watch.  Colonel Mason took the command.  He kept a double-barrel gun and a cavalry sword concealed in the folds of his cloak, ready for any sudden emergency, and remained seated on the quarter-deck the whole of the night.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>This conduct on their parts still further <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:confirmed the passengers in their opinion; and not one of the latter had an hour's sleep till daylight.  The two mates, in the mean time, were obliged to steer the ship.  Next morning, the sailors were not a little surprised on learning the sensation they had created; for they naturally regarded it as the height of absurdity to have supposed it possible for five men to overcome sixty passengers, besides the officers.  The Captain now determined to get the ship into port, at all hazards, and accordingly gave orders to the men to cut up all the light spars, hencoops, berths, ladders, and hatches, which were successively thrown into the fires.  During one night in particular, the passengers were kept awake by the tearing up of the orlop-deck.  The bulkheads were next torn down, there being yet 190 miles to run.  The ship looked a perfect wreck, the Captain burning up everything to get her in; and indeed, if it had not been for his zeal and promptitude, she would never have reached her destination.  He arrived within ten miles of Panama by consuming oakum, tar, pitch and rosin; and the vessel cast anchor within a stone's throw of an island--one of a small group rising precipitously from the sea.  Three or four men then borrowed the life-boat from the ship, resolved to row their way to the town.  It rained in torrents while they were out, and the thunder and lightning were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>"A good wife is a crown to her husband"--A beggar on horseback--"All is not gold that glitters"--Cares and anxieties of wealth--Another outbreak on board--San Diego--San Pedro--A mining-party in a fix--A death on board--San Blas--A happy riddance--Acapulco--The harbour and its incidents.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Returning to my narrative, after this brief digression, I need hardly tell my readers that the passengers of the vessel in which I was embarked presented some amusing varieties and shades of character.  Amongst them were to be found some rough illustrations of "the beggar on horseback"--men who, having obtained the sudden possession of wealth, were now determined, as Sam Slick says, "to go the full figure, and do the thing genteel," by taking the most expensive berths, and strutting about in all the consciousness of their new-born importance.  But the more sensible, and, to their credit be it said, the majority of the miners preferred economizing their hard-earned gains, and remaining in the second or steerage-cabin; for there were but two classes of berths on board this vessel.  As, in the congregation of doubtful and reckless <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>There were but two ladies on board, both of whom were married, and had several children to take care of on the voyage.  Their husbands had acquired some little money, but had not secured anything like a competency, by the hazardous experiment they had made in emigrating with their wives and families to this remote region.  No better proof could be afforded, than their haste to return to their native land, that the future prospects of the country were not such as to induce any one to remain a moment longer than was necessary for the partial attainment of his object.  One of these ladies, the daughter of a clergyman, and a woman of considerable intelligence and most amiable manners, had taken her place with her family in the steerage, and exposed herself without a murmur to all the inconveniences and disagreeable associations that I have been describing as incident to that part of the vessel.  Her history may serve as a lesson to those fine ladies who affect to think that education unfits them for the homely duties and exertions of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:adversity, and who, instead of aiding and cheering the efforts of their husbands by their own patient endurance and industry, sit down repining over the position they have either voluntarily abandoned or lost, and become a burden and a discouragement to the men they profess to love.  Mrs. E-- had married a poor but industrious and well-principled man, who, finding that he could not support his family as he wished in the States, determined on emigrating with them to the land of which such wonderful accounts of fortunes suddenly and easily realized, and of a future pregnant with the hopes of boundless prosperity, had reached him in his humble abode.  On landing in California, he had found, like many others, that he had been the dupe of exaggeration, and that it would require the most laborious exertions, and the most painful sacrifices on the part of himself and family, to maintain themselves in their new position.  Being a sensible man, however, and blessed with a partner whose advice and aid were invaluable under the circumstances, he set to work, and after struggling hard in various branches of trade, had succeeded in realizing a few thousand dollars.  No small portion of this had been, however, earned by the wife, by washing linen at nine or ten dollars the dozen pieces--the ordinary rate of payment for this necessary element of comfort.  On the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
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121.sgm:<P>Although only what was strictly termed steerage-passengers, Mrs. E-- and her family were in the habit of coming upon deck every afternoon, and seating themselves under the awning stretched over the after-cabin.  In no case should this privilege be refused to any well conducted woman at sea; and on the Pacific coast, at the period of which I am speaking, the passengers were usually glad of any accession to the number of females.  To most of us, therefore, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>352</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>One of the cabin-passengers, a vulgar-looking mechanic, who, by some fortunate chance, had become suddenly enriched, took it into his head to show his importance by turning up his nose at the E-- family, and expressing his dissatisfaction at what he termed the barefaced intrusion of women and children from the steerage.  No one seemed to pay any attention to his murmurs, except to smile at their folly and absurdity; and the little impression they seemed to make on his hearers only served to swell up the measure of his wrath.  One evening, when Mr. E--'s youngest daughter, an interesting child of about ten years of age, was in the act of seating herself, as usual, under the awning, our would-be aristocrat suddenly startled her, by addressing her in the following terms:--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Don't you know, child, that this is no place for you?  These seats are intended for the cabin-passengers, and you have no right to be here."</P>
121.sgm:<P>"I didn't know, sir," replied the little girl, frightened at the sternness of the fellow's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>353</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Then go below again, and tell your mother to wash your face.  Steerage-passengers have no business here."</P>
121.sgm:<P>The poor child left the deck, with the tears in her eyes.  I have already said, that nothing could be neater or more cleanly than the habits of this family; and I believe that the little thing felt more hurt at the imputation of a dirty face, than at her banishment from the quarter-deck.</P>
121.sgm:<P>A few of us, who happened to overhear this conversation, now approached the purse-proud upstart, and gave him a sound rating for the wanton brutality with which he had addressed the child.  His ignorance was, however, too crass, to let him feel the force of our remarks; and, with a feeling more akin to pity than to indignation, we left him to the enjoyment of the consciousness of having manfully asserted the privileges of wealth.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Although it is undeniable that the possession of money produces, amongst the Yankees, as amongst all other nations, that degree of deference which in America may be said to confer the only claims to aristocracy--to their honour be it said, in no country is greater respect paid to woman.  Such an incident as that I have just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>354</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>An amusing illustration of the force of conventional habits, in connexion with this fact, happened to fall within the sphere of my own observation.  I was in the billiard-room of the Parker House, in San Francisco, one night, when a fashionably-dressed young man entered, and stretched himself to sleep on one of the sofas, contrary to the rules of the place; it being customary, when any one is caught napping, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>355</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>One of the passengers in the steerage kept us continually amused by the extraordinary and painful degree of watchfulness which he displayed with respect to the safe custody of a small box about a foot square, in which he had deposited his gold, being too avaricious to allow the Captain his per-centage for keeping it.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>356</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I have already alluded to the badness and insufficiency of the food provided for us.  The few cows taken on board having been killed and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>357</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>We put into the port of San Diego, on our way down.  This harbour is the most southern in the territory of the United States, lying in latitude 32&deg; 40' N., and longitude 114&deg; 11' W.  It forms an arm of the sea ten miles in length and four in width, and, being landlocked, is secure from the influence of the winds.  The town of San Diego, consisting of a number of small <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
121.sgm: houses, is situated at the north side of the bay, on a sand-flat two miles wide; whilst the mission is about six miles distant, up a valley to the north-east.  The surrounding country is composed of volcanic sand, mixed with scori&aelig; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>358</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>We also touched at San Pedro, where we saw some tents belonging to persons on their way to the mines.  We were informed that they were in a state of the greatest distress and embarrassment, having neither provisions to subsist upon where they were, nor money to enable them to pursue their voyage up the coast.  Some of them had come thus far from the most distant part of Lower California, whilst others had been put on shore from some of the ships.  Fortunately, there happened to be a small military station here; and the American officers had humanely done every thing in their power to alleviate their distress.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Whilst lying here, we received a visit from a number of dark-eyed <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>359</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>A few days before we reached San Blas, where the majority of the Spaniards were expected to go ashore, one of the invalids, whose constitution had been broken down by constant hardship and exposure in the mines, after great suffering, breathed his last.  I happened to be standing at the foot of the ladder in the steerage, when I heard loud groans issuing from a dark bunk to my right; and, going over to inquire what was the matter, found an elderly Spaniard writhing in agony, and his son leaning over him, apparently in great embarrassment as to the course he should pursue.  The attack, as far as I could judge from what he told me, was a sort of spasmodic cholera.  I went immediately in search of the doctor; but before I could succeed in finding him, the man was dead.</P>
121.sgm:<P>As we proceeded down the coast, the land everywhere assumed a greener and fresher appearance, the result no doubt of the heavy dews that fall at this period of the year.  We soon arrived at San Blas, a picturesque but apparently miniature town, partly screened from our view by lofty trees and foliage of the most luxuriant description.  It lies about 21&deg; N. latitude, and is surrounded by low marshes, which render the climate very unhealthy.  During the rains, it is completely abandoned by the inhabitants.   The roadstead is good; but we had to wait a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>360</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Acapulco is the prettiest town I have seen on the coast.  It contains many low-sized but substantial houses, constructed of wood, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>361</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Acapulco formerly enjoyed a monopoly of the trade between Manilla, one of the Spanish possessions, and Mexico.  It was the principal harbour on the western coast frequented by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>362</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The substantial ruins of brick and stone, which everywhere meet the eye, and which stretch far beyond the boundaries of the site of the town, prove that the place must have been formerly one of great importance.  The number of vessels that are likely to touch here on their way to and from San Francisco will, I have no doubt, soon restore it to something like its original greatness.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The church stands in the Plaza, which occupies the centre of the town.  The interior is as plain as it can possibly be; but on <HI REND="italics">fe&circ;te</HI>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>363</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The weather being exceedingly hot, and fruit being known to abound here, a good deal of sickness was apprehended from the indiscretion of the passengers.  In San Francisco, fruit had been so scarce during the whole of the time that I remained there, that an apple readily fetched fifty cents, whilst peaches frequently brought from two to three dollars a piece.  There was some reason, therefore, to fear the effects of over-indulgence in the delicious tropical fruits which were here so cheap and plentiful.  I own that, personally, I had great difficulty in restraining my appetite, so refreshing did I find them after the heated atmosphere of a crowded vessel.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I was told that when the first steamer touched here, on its way to San Francisco, it created a prodigious sensation, and brought down the population in immense numbers to the shore.  Nothing could persuade some of the most superstitious of the natives but that his Satanic Majesty had arrived in <HI REND="italics">propria persona</HI>
121.sgm:<P>Cock-fighting seems to be one of the chief amusements of the inhabitants; and at the door of almost every house may be seen one of those pugnacious birds, tied to a stick sunk in the ground, and sending forth now and then a shrill challenge to his opposite neighbours.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I remained but a short time on shore, and on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>364</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Sen&tilde;ores, necesitan ustedes algo</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Sen&tilde;orita, deme usted huevos, Quanto vale la docena</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Huevos! huevos para mi</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"D--n it, man, those are mine!"</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>365</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"What a bore that I can't make her understand me!  I say, Jem, what's eggs in Spanish?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Huevos</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, to be sure.  What a bad memory I've got!  <HI REND="italics">Huevos! huevos! muchacha</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Quantos quiere usted, sen&tilde;or</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"The devil!  What's four shillings in their lingo?"</P>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Un peso</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Huevos, muchacha, huevos por un peso</HI>
121.sgm:<P>The eggs were here passed up, and there was a regular scuffle for them, the person who had first asked for them being, as usual, the last served.  After a scene of indescribable confusion, in which the parties engaged seemed frequently on the point of coming to blows, the wants of all were at length supplied, and something like tranquillity restored.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Previous to our arrival, an apprehension had prevailed amongst us that we should find the cholera raging here; but, on being assured that there were no traces of it, we abandoned ourselves to the full enjoyment of the delicious fruits and vegetables with which the place abounded.  Over indulgence, however, generally brings with it a penalty, and several of the passengers suffered severely from it in this instance.  One of them with whom I was on terms of intimacy, from his companionable qualities, returned on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>366</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Getting all our passengers on board with some difficulty, we proceeded on our voyage.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>367</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:The weather had been gradually growing so warm, that few of us could now sleep below.  Every night the upper deck presented an extraordinary spectacle, there being hardly an inch of space left unoccupied by the passengers, who lay stretched on their dirty blankets in every variety of recumbent posture.  On one occasion, happening to observe a vacant place upon a coil of ropes where I fancied I could repose with comparative comfort, I ran down for my <HI REND="italics">serapa</HI>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>368</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P>Arrival at Panama--Agreeable surprise--The American Hotel--Scene in a cockpit--Decayed appearance of the public buildings--Robbery of gold-dust--Crossing the Isthmus--Cortes's road--A lady cavalier--The carriers of Panama--Crucis--Exorbitant charges--Arrival at Gorgona--A Kanaka heroine--Chagres--Departure for New York.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Our arrival at Panama was first indicated to us by the glimmering of a solitary light proceeding from one of the houses; but, although we were literally gasping with anxiety to get ashore, we were compelled to wait until the morning: and wait we did, wakefully, for not one of us slept a wink the whole night.  Morning broke at last, and found us anchored at three or four miles from shore, within a mile of a lofty, abrupt hill to our left, composed principally of rock, but the summit clothed with verdure.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The Bay is extensive, and surrounded with green and undulating hills, although the appearance of the landscape indicates a warm, damp, and unhealthy atmosphere.  To our right, in the distance, stood the decaying walls of a fort, stretching for a full mile along the shore; whilst opposite to us lay several miniature islands, that, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>369</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Whilst we were contemplating this beautiful scene, with feelings which will be readily appreciated by those who have been long confined to a vessel, and especially by those who have passed a considerable period remote from the haunts of civilized men, we observed several canoes approaching us from the shore, many of them being of enormous size, varying in length from thirty to forty feet, but in width from four to five, each hewn out of one solid piece of timber.  Some of them carried sails, but the majority were paddled along by half-clad negroes, smaller in their proportions, but infinitely less repulsive in appearance than any I had ever met with in the United States.  There was general rejoicing when they reached the side of our vessel, for they brought us the agreeable intelligence that the town was perfectly healthy: welcome news, indeed, as various reports had reached us, all tending to confirm the fact of the prevalence of cholera.  We subsequently ascertained that the " <HI REND="italics">vomito</HI>
121.sgm:," a malady to which the natives are particularly subject during the rainy season, had occasioned a great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>370</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>We experienced some difficulty in procuring a canoe, as they were at once seized upon by those who had preconcerted their arrangements for the purpose.  I had joined a party who were in the same predicament as myself, and we all resolved to follow the general example, and make a rush at the first that should now draw near.  I should state that the captain would not permit the ship's boats to be used for conveying the passengers ashore, and his refusal occasioned a violent altercation, the sturdy miners threatening to give him and the mate a sound thrashing.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Our party succeeded, after much scuffling, in procuring a canoe.  We found the natives exceedingly "wide awake" in pecuniary matters, and had to argue lustily before we could conclude even an extravagant bargain for conveying us ashore; though, as the whole party divided the expense, it fell lightly on each individual, the passage costing twenty dollars.</P>
121.sgm:<P>It proved a wearisome one; for there was such a strong current running in a north-easterly direction, that to make direct for the town was impossible, and we were obliged to run for the inner extremity of the Bay, hugging the shore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>371</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>372</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Scarcely had we touched bottom, than there came about us a crowd of half-clad negroes, men and boys, anxious to assist in landing and carrying our luggage.  We disembarked opposite a lofty, arched gateway, from which every particle of wood had disappeared.  The place had evidently been built by the early Spaniards, and I surveyed the once massive but now crumbling walls with interest.  Upon a height, inside the boundary-wall of the town, stood an enormous stone sentry-box, constructed somewhat after the Moorish style; indeed, I observed in many places evidences of a taste for a mongrel species of architecture, none of the buildings having any pretensions to purity of style.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I had heard Panama spoken of as a wretched and insignificant place, but, upon entering the principal street, I was most agreeably surprised.  The streets are narrow, it is true; but this peculiarity has its great advantage, inasmuch as it affords shelter from the scorching rays of the sun.  The great height of the houses also contributes to this effect, and in other respects they are well adapted to obviate the disagreeableness of the climate.</P>
121.sgm:<P>This street brought us to the "Plaza," which is partially paved with large stones, and here and there covered with grass; a circumstance that elicited from my companion--one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>373</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:volunteers--the remark, that it was time the Americans came into the country; for, once here, <HI REND="italics">they</HI>
121.sgm:<P>I put up at the "American Hotel," at which the usual charge for accommodation is fourteen dollars a week.  It is a lofty, substantial house, and, at the time of my arrival, lodged ninety persons, the majority of them Americans, on their way to and from California.  The table was good, but the beds were mere cots, with nothing but a couple of quilts for covering.  There was one billiard-table in this establishment; and I shall not readily forget the fatigue I incurred in getting up to it, so many flights of stairs had I to ascend, and so many questions to ask.</P>
121.sgm:<P>After arranging my toilet, and taking some refreshment, I sauntered out into the town, and strolled about until I came to a billiard-room, where, without entering, I observed some twenty or thirty men of colour congregated around it, smoking cigars, betting upon the odds, or watching with much apparent interest the progress of the game.  They were mostly dressed in white, and wore Panama hats; and I need not add, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Hearing that next day there was some cock-fighting coming off, at the further extremity of the town, towards the road by which we were to cross, I went to witness one of these spectacles for the first time; for, though I had never had any great taste for such sights, it was worth going to see, as an amusement of the people I was now among.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The locality was a kind of circus, capable of containing perhaps five hundred persons.  The seats were arranged in such an unusually steep manner, that all could witness the performances in the cockpit, without any obstruction from the persons sitting in front of them.  The place was crowded with people of colour, and in the pit were several who held gamecocks in their hands, examining the birds with the air of accomplished and profound <HI REND="italics">connoisseurs</HI>
121.sgm:.  In an arm-chair, elevated some two or three feet from the ground, was seated a very old gentleman, whose hair was snowy white, and whose complexion was whitey-brown, and who was dressed in trousers and a jacket of white linen; his whole appearance being remarkably neat; whilst he displayed, in the discharge of his functions, all the dignity and importance of a magistrate.  Over and above the buzz of voices, there was a shrill and continual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>375</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>After I had remained seated here some time, the spectacle commenced by two men going out of the pit, and presently returning with a couple of gamecocks, having long steel spurs bound to their heels.  The old gentleman whom I have described now rang a bell, and the two men, pitting the cocks against each other, let them go.  One of them was killed in fifteen seconds, the spur of his antagonist having penetrated his breast.  The spur is an instrument, in shape something like a scythe, and about two inches long.  I was cruel enough to feel disappointed at this expeditious despatch of matters; for I had expected to behold a protracted fight; but, having no curiosity to witness another display, I quitted the amphitheatre, to which the price of admission, I should have stated, was only five cents.</P>
121.sgm:<P>As I was returning to my hotel, I encountered a crowd of persons running after a bull up the street, the animal being secured by a rope tied around his horns, the other end of which was held by one of the natives, a part of it encircling his wrist.  The poor thing seemed driven almost to desperation; and his fury was further excited by several urchins, who waved blankets before his eyes, and set dogs on him, which barked most energetically, but turned tail as soon as the bull <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>376</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The town possesses a cathedral and several large and handsome churches built of stone.  I went into one of these, and noticed several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>377</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:females of fair complexion--some remarkably good-looking--who were bedecking the altar and other parts of the interior with flowers and various ornaments, preparatory to a grand <HI REND="italics">fe&circ;te</HI>
121.sgm:<P>These priests, when they are out of doors, wear enormous black hats--the brims being nearly three feet in diameter--and long black gowns or gaberdines.  I saw one of them, next day, indulging in a practice decidedly unclerical; but ecclesiastics, in these latitudes, must not be judged by our European standard.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Besides the cathedral and the churches, there are two convents of the order of San Antonio and San Francisco, which are in comparatively good repair; but several others, which are to be found in various parts of the town, are in complete ruins.</P>
121.sgm:<P>It is melancholy to contemplate the decayed state of some of the finest buildings on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>378</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Even the private houses are not exempt from the appearance of decay.  On visiting several of them, I was surprised at the great height and spaciousness of the apartments, and at the solidity of the walls.  Many of them are twenty feet high, and nearly as many in width.  This mode of construction evinces no economy of space, but is admirably adapted to the comfort of the inhabitants, as it renders the dwellings infinitely cooler and more agreeable, during the greater part of the year, than any place that can be found out of doors.  The eaves of the houses are generally made to project as far as possible, and are supported by wooden posts.  Some of them have verandas in front, the wood-work of which, as well as the building itself, is white-washed.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The majority of shops in the town are small, but they are numerous.  Some of the Yankees had recently established a few hotels and eating establishments, but very few were located here in any other branch of business.  The climate is, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>379</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Four-fifths of the population are of the negro race.  They had probably come into the country in the capacity of slaves to the Spaniards, but their masters had long since lost their supremacy.  A few of pure Castilian descent were still to be found; and, though these pride themselves on the fairness of their complexion, and their superior intelligence, they are utterly insignificant in point of influence.</P>
121.sgm:<P>In the hands of the people of the United States, this town could easily be rendered prosperous.  The majority of the edifices are susceptible of cheap and effectual improvement, and it would require but a comparatively small outlay of money to put the whole town in complete repair, many of the most substantial buildings being entirely deserted, owing to a deficiency of wood-work, which seems to have rotted, or been torn away.  When such improvements shall have been effected, and a better road cut across the Isthmus, this neglected place will assume a charming appearance.  The black, woolly population will, however, remain a prominent characteristic of the town; and it perhaps will be maintained by some, that their presence will prove a great obstacle to its restoration; for it may be asserted by those who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>380</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The Americans whom I had heard speak of Panama, judging of it merely from the character of the present population and probably the state of the weather when they visited it, had informed me that it was one of the dirtiest and most disgusting places they had ever seen--the town being half sunk in mud, and, to use their own phraseology, "overrun with niggers."  I had therefore expected to find it merely a collection of <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;</HI>
121.sgm: and cane tenements, without a vestige of the labours of the civilized race that had once colonized it.  Few places, however, have more interested me.  As I surveyed the various remains of former greatness that everywhere presented themselves to my view, I was struck with admiration at the enterprising genius and indomitable perseverance of the old Spaniards, and contrasted them with the indolent habits and degenerate spirit of their descendants.  When we examine those enduring monuments of their vast labours, and take into consideration the gigantic difficulties which they had to encounter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>381</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I had some difficulty in hiring mules to Crucis, owing to the number of persons who were travelling that road.  The natives had raised the price in proportion to the demand, and I found it impossible to obtain any sort of animal at less than sixteen dollars for the trip.  I thought this rather extravagant, as the distance was only thirty miles, and felt very reluctant to hire a second one at the same price.  Whilst reflecting on the matter, one of the volunteers informed me that I could hire one of the negroes to carry my baggage across for five dollars.  I was rather surprised at this, having heard a formidable account of the difficulties of the road; but, on inquiry, found that such was the fact, and accordingly made the bargain.</P>
121.sgm:<P>I had passed three days in Panama; and, feeling desirous of continuing my journey, I had no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>382</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The negro brought to my hotel a long frame of bamboo, with a sort of basket at the end, into which he crammed my luggage.  This frame had two straps fastened to the upper part of it, through one of which he slipped his arm, whilst he passed the other over his left shoulder, and attached it under the latter to the frame which was now on his back.  This contrivance not only effectually secures the load in its place, but protects the shoulders of the bearer from the continual friction they would otherwise undergo.</P>
121.sgm:<P>A large party had preceded me; but I felt no anxiety to overtake it, as there was little or no danger of my encountering violence on the route.  I was armed with a good revolving pistol, in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>383</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>As I rode up the principal street, I perceived a commotion at the entrance to one of the hotels, and, on stopping to inquire the cause of it, I was informed that Mr. Burke, one of the passengers by the Panama steamer, had been robbed of a considerable amount in gold-dust.  The trunk that contained it had been missing for several days, but had just been found, rifled of its contents, on one of the roads in the vicinity of the town.  The gentleman to whom it belonged seemed to take the matter much more coolly than the persons by whom he was surrounded.  I could not help admiring his philosophy, and told him that I supposed it was in some degree owing to his having adopted the usual precaution of dividing his money, and carrying a portion of it about his person.  He replied that he had fortunately done so, or he should have been left without the means of continuing his journey; and, as to the loss he had incurred, there was no use in fretting about evils that could not be remedied.  Considering the distance he had come, and the perils he had encountered in search of the little store of wealth he was bringing home with him, I must say that he displayed more than ordinary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>384</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>I proceeded on my route with my sable attendant, and found the commencement pleasant enough travelling, the road for some distance being paved with large and regularly cut stone.  This, however, soon terminated in abundance of sand; the route still continuing dry, and comparatively easy to what I had expected to find it.  Soon after we had quitted the paved road, the negro stopped, and asked my permission to take a few things to his family, who lived in a small hut to our left.  Apprehensive that he was meditating an escape with my luggage, I replied that I had no objection, provided he would leave his basket in my care.  He accordingly took the frame off his back, and, separating a small bundle containing provisions from my baggage, he took his departure.  I took care, however, to keep him in sight, and saw him enter a wretched-looking bamboo-hut at a little distance from the route.  He remained absent a considerable time; and, having paid him half his wages in advance, according to the usual custom with these people, who are exceedingly distrustful, I began to fear that he was about to desert me, and therefore called out lustily, until at last I saw him reluctantly emerge from the hut, and make his way towards me.  These negroes being constantly in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>385</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>A few miles further on, I again found myself on a stone road, said to have been paved by Cortes to facilitate the passage of his troops from the Atlantic to the Pacific coast; and, although I have travelled rougher and steeper routes in Lower California, I cannot say that I have ever encountered such a combination of petty difficulties and annoyances.  The road is, for the greater part, barely wide enough to admit of one mule passing with its packs, the sides forming steep embankments, composed chiefly of rich clay, but, in many places, of large rocks, through which a passage had evidently been cut with great labour.  But little of the country can be seen on either side, owing to the height of these embankments; but now and then the traveller obtains a glimpse of dense thickets, and occasionally of undulating hills, the summits of which are covered with a deep perennial green.  The recent rains having poured in torrents down the steep sides of the road, every cavity and crevice was filled with water and mud.  Owing to the nature of the soil, and the constant traffic across the route from the time it was originally cut through, innumerable stones and flags had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>386</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The mules themselves are, as I have already stated, so worn-out and broken-down, that it requires the utmost vigilance and care on the part of their riders to prevent them dropping, and precipitating them into the mire.  In order to guard as much as possible against this contingency, whenever ladies travel this route, they are obliged to discard the side-saddle, and resort to a less feminine style of equitation.  I overtook a party of about twenty persons on the road, amongst whom was a married lady, on her way to the States; and I watched her rather curiously, to observe how she got over the difficulties that beset her.  Being fortified with that article of male attire, the figurative possession of which is said to denote domestic ascendency, she thought it incumbent upon her, I suppose, to display all the courage and nerve that should properly be encased in it.  Several times, when I fancied that both she and her mule were on the point of being capsized, she recovered herself with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<illus entity="a121-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ISTHMUS OF PANAMA--THE RETURN HOME.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>387</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>As to myself, I floundered on as well as I could with a mule tottering beneath me from sheer exhaustion, and sinking every minute up to his knees in mud.  It seemed to me that we were making little or no progress; and I became thoroughly tired and disheartened.  I do not know any temptation, however powerful, that would again induce me to encounter the never-ending series of difficulties and annoyances that laid in wait for me at every step; and I must candidly own, that even the force of female example, of which I had so merry a specimen before me, did not at all shame me into a less impatient endurance of them.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The negroes whom I met on their way to and from Panama excited my astonishment, from the amount of physical exertion which they seemed capable of undergoing.  With their legs and feet bare, and nothing but a cloth around their loins, they carried enormous burdens on their backs, stepping from stone to stone with wonderful strength and dexterity.  These poor creatures must lead the most wretched and laborious of all the painful modes of existence to which their race is condemned; and not even long habit, or their peculiar physical construction, can divest it of its distressing character in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>388</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Moving somewhat like a ship in a storm, rising and sinking alternately at stern and bow, surmounting first one huge stone, then a deep mud hole, then another stone, and then a small lake, my mule and myself at last reached Crucis in the evening, the whole distance traversed not being above twenty miles.  Here, although half dead with fatigue, I could not get a place to sleep; and the prices demanded for every thing in the shape of refreshment was quite on the scale of Californian charges--a couple of dollars being asked for a plate of meat, and two dollars more for cooking it.  The good people of this place, being on the highway to the land of gold, doubtless think it but right that those who travel on it should pay toll for the privilege.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The houses here are also built of cane, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>389</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Next morning, I joined a small party about to start, and we hired a canoe for fifty dollars, or about five dollars each, to convey us down the river.  We were informed that the current ran with extraordinary swiftness towards Gorgona, and that we should, therefore, have no difficulty in rowing.  The canoes are similar to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>390</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>About an hour after dusk, we arrived at Gorgona, and stopped at the base of a small hill, on the right bank of the river, where we found several empty canoes that had just landed their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>391</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:passengers for the night.  Jumping ashore, and ascending the hill, we soon came to a wretched-looking cane hut, which, I suppose, is the hotel, <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
121.sgm:, of the river, and which rejoices in the appellation of <HI REND="italics">rancho blanco</HI>
121.sgm:; although every thing connected with it is as black and filthy as it is possible to imagine.  Here we found assembled about twenty-five travellers; and the number was presently increased by the arrival of a small party that had come part of the way by land, their canoe having been capsized a few miles above, owing to the unskilful management of the negroes.  One of the natives was drowned, and the passengers had lost all their baggage.  More lives would have been sacrificed, but for the skill and courage of a Kanaka female, the wife of one of the passengers, who happened fortunately to be on board.  Like the generality of her countrywomen, she was an admirable swimmer, and, after saving her husband, and bringing him to the shore, she returned and brought out several of the other passengers who were unable to swim, and who would certainly have been lost but for her aid.  She was a stout, well-formed woman, with the dark complexion and characteristic features of the Sandwich Islanders.  We were, of course, loud in our praises of the heroism she had displayed; but she took it all very modestly, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>392</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In the bustle and excitement consequent on the arrival of so many passengers, we found it a matter of no small difficulty to get any of the people of the house to attend to us; and it was only after strenuous and persevering exertions that we eventually succeeded in obtaining a cup of coffee, but without any thing to eat with it.  This, with a roll that I had luckily thrown into my carpet-bag, in the apprehension of such a contingency, formed the whole of my supper; and yet I fared better than several of my companions, who could get nothing whatever to eat.  Having partially appeased the cravings of my appetite, I had time to look around me, and found that the house, which, as I have said before, was built of cane, contained but two apartments, one of which was the kitchen.  Over the latter, I perceived a large bamboo frame, placed horizontally upon two cross-beams, at a considerable height from the ground; and, to my surprise, learned that this formed the floor of the bed-chamber destined for our party.  Such as it was, however, we thought it better to sleep, if sleep were possible, on the ribs of the bamboo than to lie on the floor of the room, which was damp and filthy, and already almost entirely preoccupied.  Seven or eight of us, therefore, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>393</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Our night quarters, although admirably adapted as a roosting-place for fowls, was neither calculated to afford us the facility of adopting the position most in favour amongst the feathered tribe, or of stretching our limbs comfortably after the fashion of man.  The bamboo frame was, as might have been anticipated, so rough and uneven, that, notwithstanding the efforts that we made, by the aid of our blankets, to render it endurable, it was impossible to obtain a moment's rest upon it.  The ridge pole of the roof, not being more than a few feet from the frame, it was equally impracticable for us to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>394</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Amongst the persons subjected to this fumigatory process were three officers in the United States' navy, and an assistant-surgeon belonging to their vessel.  Although accustomed to perch aloft in all sorts of weather, I question whether they had ever encountered such a hard night's service as they were compelled to undergo on the bamboo spars of this detestable cockloft.  Such shifting and turning, and restless feverishness, alternated by the most pitiable groans and the most ludicrous maledictions, it has never been my lot to assist in; and I need not say that, when morning broke, we were but too happy to swing ourselves down from our uncomfortable elevation, and, after a scanty and hurried meal, to bid adieu to a place of entertainment without a parallel in the discomforts of road-side adventure.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Entering our canoes soon after dawn, we rowed down the river to Chagres, and arrived there after a passage of between six and seven hours, during nearly the whole of which time the rain poured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>395</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>There are but few Americans settled here, the climate being in general fatal to foreigners.  I had scarcely arrived before I began to feel the effects of it on my own frame, in a general lassitude and depression of spirits.  A good deal of this may be attributable to local causes, susceptible of modification, with improved habits and greater attention to cleanliness on the part of the population.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The only object worthy of notice here is the fort at the mouth of the river.  It is situated on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>396</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Although anxious to get away from this dismal place as speedily as possible, I preferred waiting for the Falcon steamer to embarking on board the Alabama--the first vessel announced to sail--in the hope of visiting New Orleans; a city I had long been desirous of seeing.  After a rapid and uneventful passage, we at length entered the Mississippi; but I was disappointed in the object with which I had taken my place on board the Falcon, the Ohio meeting us at night, on her way down, and taking on board all the passengers bound for New York.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>397</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.</HEAD>
121.sgm:<P><HSEP>The rapid changes that have taken place in the brief interval that has elapsed since the author's departure from California, render an <HI REND="italics">abrege&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>The files of papers, containing accounts to the 1st of October, bring the following interesting news:--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Discoveries have been made which almost induce us to believe that the whole country, from San Diego to Cape Mendocina; from the Pacific to the topmost ridge of the Nevada; and Heaven knows how much further eastward! has been completely seasoned and spiced with the yellow grains.  News reached San Francisco of a large `placer' having been found on Trinity River--a stream which rises in the Coast Range, and empties into the Pacific, opposite the head of Sacramento Valley.  The story was soon verified by intelligence from the diggings on the American Fork, which stated that the diggers were leaving in large bodies for the Trinity placer, where men were said to wash out $100 a day.  It is best to receive the stories of gold-digging, even here, with a grain of allowance; but the main fact is true.  I lately saw a letter from a merchant in Sacramento city to his partner in San Francisco:--`There is good news from Trinity River; gold is very plenty, and provisions scarce.  We shall make a great raise on the loads I have sent there.' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>398</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"Near the Mission of San Antonio, situated among the coast mountains, sixty miles south of this, a washing of considerable richness has been discovered.  At the last accounts, a number of people were working them with fair success, and traders are beginning to send their teams in that direction.  Gold is said to exist in small quantities near the Mission of Carmel, only four miles from this town; and, in fact, ther is every geological indication of it.  That San Francisco itself is built on a placer, I am well satisfied.  To my certain knowledge, boys have picked up $4 and $5 in a few hours, from clay dug thirty feet below the surface, in sinking a well.  The story of Mr. Harrison, the collector, having found gold in the <HI REND="italics">adobe&grave;s</HI>
121.sgm: of the Custom-House, is something more than a joke.  But by far the most magnificent discovery is that recently made upon the <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
121.sgm: of Colonel Fremont, on the Mariposas River.  It is nothing less than a vein of gold in the solid rock--a <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
121.sgm: mine--the first which has been found in California.  Whether it was first detected by a party of Sonomans, or by the company which Colonel Fremont organized last spring, and which has been working in the same locality, is a disputed point; though, I believe, the credit is due to the latter.  At any rate, the gold is there, and in extraordinary abundance.  I saw some specimens which were in Colonel Fremont's possession.  The stone is a reddish quartz, filled with rich veins of gold, and far surpassing the specimens brought from North Carolina and Georgia.  Some stones picked up on the top of the quartz strata, without particular selection, yielded 2 oz. of gold to every 25lb.  Colonel Fremont informed me, that the vein had been traced for more than a mile.  The thickness on the surface is 2 feet, gradually widening as it descends, and showing larger particles of gold.  The dip downward is only about 20 degrees, so that the mine can be worked with little expense.  These are the particulars first given me when the discovery was first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>399</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:announced.  Still more astonishing facts have just come to light.  A geologist sent out to examine the place arrived here last night.  He reports having traced the vein a distance of two leagues, with an average breadth of 150 feet.  At one extremity of the mine he found large quantities of native silver, which he calculates will fully pay the expense of setting up machinery and working it.  The <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>"So much for the gold.  In other respects, the country is tolerably quiet; speculation in lots, though still going on, having assumed a more cautious character.  San Francisco, Stocton, Sacramento city, and San Jose&acute;, still maintain their value.  Benecia lots are rather dull, and have slightly fallen; while Colonel Stevens's New York of the Pacific, with its awkward and absurd title, does not seem to be thought of.  A town named Vernon, at the mouth of Feather River, is rising rapidly to notice, and another is said to be springing up on Trinity River.  Many persons have made large fortunes by buying up lots at lucky times, and selling them still more luckily.  A case was told me of a young man who, last fall, borrowed money to pay his passage from the Sandwich Islands to San Francisco, and who is now on his way home with $80,000 made in this manner.  Three or four gentlemen, who came up in the Panama, have already made $20,000 by similar operations.  A friend of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>400</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:mine, who shipped lumber from New York to the amount of $1000, sold it here for $14,000.  Houses that cost $300, sell readily for $3000; and the demand is constantly increasing.  At least 75 houses have been imported from Canton, and are put up by Chinese carpenters.  Nearly all the chairs in private families are of Chinese manufacture; and there are two <HI REND="italics">restaurants</HI>
121.sgm: in the town kept by Kang-sung and Wang-tong, where every palatable chow-chow, curry, and tarts, are served up by the Celestials.  Washing is still $8 a dozen; and the consequence is, large quantities of soiled linen are sent to our antipodes to be purified.  A vessel just in from Canton brought 250 dozen, which were sent out a few months ago; another, from the Sandwich Islands, brought 100 dozen; and the practice is now becoming general.  San Francisco is, in fact, more metropolitan in its character than any port in the world.  Its trade with all parts of the Pacific is rapidly increasing.  The overland emigration is pouring into the country in a full tide.  The reports that reached here of distress on the routes, and the certainty that many would need aid before reaching the settlements, caused a public movement in favour of raising supplies to send out on the routes.  Private individuals and companies contributed largely; and General Riley, on being applied to, promptly gave a <HI REND="italics">carte blanche</HI>
121.sgm: to Major Cauley and Captain Kain, of the Q.M. department, to furnish all the assistance in their power.  Several hundred pack-mules, under the charge of competent officers, have been sent to Vallecitos, at the edge of the great desert, and to the sink of Humboldt's River, in the great basin, the places where emigrants will most require aid.  Word has reached us that many waggons have stopped at the latter place, unable to proceed further.  I have heard of no such distress on the northern route as the southern.  The emigrants in the north, so far as I learn, have not been molested by the Indians; while the hostilities of the Yumas and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>420</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>401</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"As to prices, all mining tools are high, as are also all articles upon which labour has been performed here.  Picks, $5; pans, $5; cradles for washing gold, three feet long, worth $2 in the States, sell here for $40; flour, from $8 to $10 per hundred; pork, $50 per hundred; coffee, $18; board, $21 per week, or $1 50 cents per meal, with the privilege of sleeping under the nearest tree unoccupied.  At the mines, sixty miles distant, the prices are doubled, and of some things trebled.  Brandy, $2 per bottle.  At the mines they are making, on an average, an ounce of gold per day.  One man who arrived here this month, made in two weeks $25,000, and has gone to San Francisco to take passage for the States.  Labour is in proportion to the produce of the mines, ranging from $8 to $18 per day.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Vessels continue to arrive at San Francisco from the United States.  When I left there, two weeks ago, 102 vessels had arrived out of the 250 which sailed from different ports in the United States during the winter and spring.  Since then, they are beginning to crowd in more rapidly.  I was this morning informed, though not from the most reliable authority, that forty-five had arrived in two days.  The harbour presents for miles an unbroken forest of masts; ships from every nation and country lie here idle and worthless, with no prospect of ever leaving: many must go down at their anchor, for there are not men enough unemployed to work the twentieth part of them.  The men will leave; there is no way of detaining them for duty on board: the naval force has been weakened by desertion; and there is no human effort or possibility to prevent the `custom' of deserting.  Commander Jones has barely force enough on board to form a crew, much less to tender assistance to merchant-men.  There are yet scores of vessels in port that have been months endeavouring to discharge; some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>402</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The "New York Herald" gives a less favourable view of the intelligence from the mines.  It says:--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The intelligence from California is interesting, but by no means so favourable as generally anticipated.  The Oregon, at Panama, from San Francisco, brought about $400,000 on freight, and the passengers have about $200,000 in their trunks.  This makes a total of about $4,000,000 received from the gold mines of California.  Our advices from San Francisco are to the 1st of October.  The digging season at this time was nearly over; and the miners were flocking into San Francisco in large numbers, on their way to the Atlantic ports.  We learn that steamers for Panama, which are to leave California during the next four months, have been already filled up, and that tickets command a large premium.  It appears by this, that there is as much anxiety to get away from as to get to San Francisco.  The miners have not made out so well this season as they did last, or as they expected.  It is estimated, that about 100,000 have gone in the mines this season, and that the average product of gold-dust has not been more than $4 per head.</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The Convention at Monterey was still in Session.  It had been agreed to prohibit slavery; though free negroes were not be permitted to enter the state.  Pueblo San Jose&acute; had been agreed upon as the seat of government.  The right of suffrage was to be extended to all free white male citizens of the United States, after six months' residence in the state.  Banks of discount were to be prohibited, and banks of deposit strictly protected.  The boundary agreed upon includes all Alta-California; but an effort would be made to confine it to the Sierra Nevada, on the east.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>403</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The "Pacific News" (San Francisco), of the 15th of November, says:--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"We have had the pleasure of conversing with a very intelligent gentleman, who has just returned from a long tour of observation through the mining district.  His investigations have led him to the conclusion that its greatest riches have not yet been reached, but still await the labours of miners more experienced and skilful than those engaged in the work.  He saw personally several diggings, richer far than those in relation to which our credulity has already been severely taxed.  At the same time, he places the average gain of the whole body of miners now employed at a considerably lower figure than is usually given.  He thinks that mining, having been, as heretofore conducted, a game of chance, and uncertain as a lottery, or a fair-bank, is now about to become a less hazardous game of skill and scientific calculation, at which good and experienced players, and they only, will be sure largely to win.  The observation of our informant fully confirms the general impression that there is to be a serious deficiency in the winter stock of provisions in the mining regions, without allowing anything for the consumption of the overland emigration now on its way thither."</P>
121.sgm:<P>An influential memorial from the merchants and traders of New York had been presented to the President, asking for the establishment of a <HI REND="italics">direct</HI>
121.sgm: semi-monthly mail between that port and Chagres.  This line, if established, and the line already provided for by act of Congress, carrying the mails between New York, Charleston, Savannah, Havannah, New Orleans, and Chagres, would give to the whole Atlantic coast a means of intercourse with the Pacific far exceeding those now enjoyed, and yet no more than is required by the vast emigrations to the gold regions, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>404</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Files of papers from San Francisco, extending to the 1st of December, mention that the elections had taken place and passed off quietly, and resulted in the success of the whole ticket, in opposition to the people's ticket party.  Several suicides had taken place.  The British bark Collooney, Livingstone, from Oregon, <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>A good deal of interest had been excited in San Francisco by the exhibition of some remarkable specimens of gold, embedded in quartz rocks, said to have been found in inexhaustible quarries through the mountainous region which forms the western slope of the Sierra Nevada.  Gold had also been discovered within ten miles of Panama.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The following extract is from the President's Message, delivered to the thirty-first Congress of the United States, dated the 24th of December:--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The great mineral wealth of California, and the advantages which its ports and harbours, and those of Oregon, afford to commerce, especially with the islands of the Pacific and Indian Oceans, and the popular regions of Eastern Asia, make it certain that there will arise, in a few years, large and prosperous communities on our western coast.  It therefore becomes important that a line of communication, the best and most expeditious which the nature of the country will admit, should be opened within the territory of the United States, from the navigable waters of the Atlantic, or the Gulf of Mexico, to the Pacific.  Opinion, as elicited and expressed by two large and respectable conventions, lately assembled at St. Louis and Memphis, points to a railroad, as that which, if practicable, will best meet the wishes and wants of the country.  But while this, if in successful operation, would be a work of great national importance, and of a value to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>405</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:the country which it would be difficult to estimate, it ought also to be regarded as an undertaking of vast magnitude and expense, and one which must, if it be indeed practicable, encounter many difficulties in its construction and use.  Therefore, to avoid failure and disappointment; to enable Congress to judge whether, in the condition of the country through which it must pass, the work be feasible; and, if it be found so, whether it should be undertaken as a national improvement, or left to individual enterprise; and, in the latter alternative, what aid, if any, ought to be extended to it by the Government--I recommend, as a preliminary measure, a careful <HI REND="italics">reconnaisance</HI>
121.sgm:<P>Accounts from San Francisco, to the 31st December, state that rather a serious fire had taken place in that city, occasioning a destruction of property to the value of $2,000,000.  The loss had principally fallen on the American and Chili settlers.  Twenty-five houses had been burned, and nearly an acre of ground laid bare.  In a week after, such was the extraordinary energy of the sufferers, that the site was already half-covered with houses, built and building.  While the fire was still burning, one of the parties who had lost most heavily by the conflagration, bargained for and purchased lumber to rebuild his house; and, before six o'clock the same evening, he had concluded and signed a contract with a builder to reconstruct his house in sixteen days, under a penalty.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The progress of San Francisco is described as perfectly wonderful, and as finding no parallel in its bustling activity and restless energy, save the great metropolis of the world--London itself.  Immense sums were being continually drained out of the country; in November alone, $2,300,000 in gold-dust had been exported; but, on the other hand, in the latter week <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>406</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Under the above date (31st December), we have a short price-current of articles as sold at San Francisco.  <HI REND="italics">Coals</HI>
121.sgm: sold on board, free of expense to the shipper, at $40, $45, and one parcel at $50 per ton, but falling; $35 is the safest quotation.  <HI REND="italics">Ale</HI>
121.sgm:, Tennants and Byass's, $4 50c. to $5 per dozen, wholesale.  <HI REND="italics">Bricks</HI>
121.sgm:, Garnkirk and Stourbridge, $45 per 1,000; great demand.  <HI REND="italics">Carpeting</HI>
121.sgm:, Brussels, $2 50c. to $3; Kidderminster, $2; Axminster, $1 6c.  <HI REND="italics">Blankets</HI>
121.sgm:, Witney, assorted, $4 to $5 per pair.  <HI REND="italics">Coloured cotton shirts</HI>
121.sgm:, $7 to $8 per dozen.  <HI REND="italics">Merino drawers</HI>
121.sgm:, $22 per dozen; woollen hose, (grey) $7 to $8 per dozen.  <HI REND="italics">Merino shirts</HI>
121.sgm:, $27 to $28 per dozen; Flushing trousers, $4 50c. per pair.  <HI REND="italics">Pea-jackets and coats</HI>
121.sgm:, $8 to $10 each; brogans, (English) $24 to $28 per dozen.  <HI REND="italics">Heavy boots</HI>
121.sgm:, pegged, $20 per pair, for fair quality; ditto, pegged, superior quality, $40 to $60 per pair.  Long fishing-boots, well nailed, are worth $100 a-pair.  The streets of San Francisco are such sloughs and quagmires of mud, that good, long, thick boots, to come over the knee, are worth almost their weight in gold.  <HI REND="italics">Preserved meats</HI>
121.sgm:, 25c. to 30c. per lb.  <HI REND="italics">Drugs</HI>
121.sgm:, abundant; no sales.  <HI REND="italics">Red and blue flannel shirts</HI>
121.sgm:, $18 to $20 per dozen.  Macintosh waterproofs unsaleable.  <HI REND="italics">Silks</HI>
121.sgm:, in great demand; large consignments from China sold at very high prices.  <HI REND="italics">Prints</HI>
121.sgm:, fast colours; dark, rich styles, $4 50c. to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>407</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>There is a considerable trade springing up with Mexico; and there is no doubt that the business hitherto done between that country and Valparaiso and Lima is being diverted to this market.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Iron houses are very abundant, but in slight demand.  Ready-made houses of all classes, and of every material, are abundant and unsaleable.  The rage for them has completely died away.  But building materials of iron and zinc would sell well.</P>
121.sgm:<P>Chili flour sold lately as high as $45 per sack of 200 lb, on shore: the price is now $26 to $28.  Flour has been a splendid speculation lately.  In three days, it rose from $8 to $32 per sack of 200 lb, and in a week was up to $45.  A vessel came in from Chili when the rage was at its height.  She cleared $50,000 gain to the shipper, and made $10,000 commissions to the consignee.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The following details, extracted from Mr. Ewing's official report to Congress, will be found interesting:--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"Thus, it appears that the deposits of gold, wherever found, are the property of the United States.  Those, however, which are known to exist upon the lands of individuals are of small comparative importance; by far the larger part being upon unclaimed public lands.  Still, our information respecting them is yet extremely limited.  What we know, in general, is that they are of great extent and extraordinary productiveness, even though rudely wrought.  The gold is found sometimes in masses, the largest of which brought to the Mint weighed 89 oz.  They are generally equal to the standard of our coin in purity; and their appearance is that of a metal forced into the fissures and cavities of the rocks in a state of fusion.  Some masses, however, are flattened, apparently by pressure, and scratched, as if by attrition in a rough surface.  One small mass which was exhibited, had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>408</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>In a mercantile point of view, the discoveries of quicksilver are scarcely less interesting than those of the precious metals.  We are informed by this same authority, that--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The deposit of quicksilver known to exist in California is a sulphuret of mercury, or native <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>409</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:cinnabar.  The stratum of mineral, several feet in thickness, has been traced for a considerable distance along its line of strike.  The specimens assayed at the Mint, range from 15.5 to 33.35 per cent. of metal; it is easy of access, and is mined and reduced without difficulty.  So much of the mine as has been traced is situated on a <HI REND="italics">ranche&acute;</HI>
121.sgm:<P>From the news received up to the 31st of January, it appears that, owing to the interior being flooded by the melting of the snows of the Sierra Nevada and other mountains, the numerous roads and ways of approach to the gold region had become nearly all impassable.  The consequence was, that no gold came down; and, what with the deficiency of supply, the continual drain of gold exported (chiefly to Chili, Sydney, and the Atlantic states), and the large sums expended in land speculations and in building, there existed in San Francisco a general scarcity of money without a parallel in any commercial country.  This scarcity was all but universal.  There did not seem to be more than sufficient money in the place to pay for the ordinary supplies of existence; and the few who had money were very naturally, and with just reason, reluctant to part with it.  Great distrust prevailed.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The rates of interest were such as in England appears preposterous.  The old rate of 10 per cent. a-month was becoming fast exploded; 12 1/2 and 15 per cent. per month, on <HI REND="italics">security of real estate</HI>
121.sgm:, was getting common; and 1 per cent.  <HI REND="italics">per day</HI>
121.sgm: discount on notes was allowed; though very few negociations of the latter class were taking place, money-lenders requiring the security of real property of the most ample kind.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>410</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>Lumber had fallen from $400 to $90 and $100 per 1,000 feet.  Flour was down from $30 to $40, which it reached a few weeks previous, to $13 and $14 per sack.</P>
121.sgm:<P>It is supposed that large sums in gold had accumulated in the mining districts, and the reports of a few persons who had found their way down from some of the "diggins" were favourable.  There was no scarcity of provisions in any part of the mining districts.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The city of Sacramento had been flooded for three weeks previously.  The streets were navigated by boats; and about 8,000 to 10,000 of the inhabitants had left the town, and were living in tents pitched on a spit of dry land between the city and Sutter's Fort.  The country around the city was one sea of water.  For sixty miles below it, the eye rested on little else than water, within the range of the horizon, on both sides of the river.  It was the same above the city.  The destruction of property had been considerable.  For twenty miles, the banks of the Sacramento were strewn with the carcasses of drowned horned cattle; and the squatters all along its banks were confined to their houses, or rather cabins, or to a foot or two of mud by their doors.  The scene of desolation defies description.</P>
121.sgm:<P>The flood had caused a complete suspension of business in Sacramento; and, what was more deplorable, an almost total suspension of payments.  A correspondent of one of the papers writes to this effect:--</P>
121.sgm:<P>"The present state of matters in general stands something in this way: many of the merchants in San Francisco have over-speculated in land, buildings, and other <HI REND="italics">promising</HI>
121.sgm: objects of profit.  The dealers in the interior towns imitated the merchants; but they not only speculated in land, but they also <HI REND="italics">over-bought goods</HI>
121.sgm:, particularly lumber and flour, beyond their means.  Now, the time of payment for the goods has arrived, and the immediate consequences are manifest enough.  The dealer, because he added a speculative game of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>411</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>"The present pressure on the money-market is increased by a renewed demand for land lots in the town of Benicia, which was allowed `to waste its sweetness on the desert air' for the last eight months unnoticed.  The site of this town is only thirty-five miles from San Francisco, across the Bay.  It is now attempted to puff it into favour, as being a more eligible port than San Francisco.  If the speculators had begun their operations before they allowed San Francisco to fill its port with a fleet of merchantmen unequalled out of Europe and the Atlantic states; before San Francisco became a large town, extending, as it now does, over a space of three miles; and before many millions of dollars were invested in property in the town; and before large sums were expended in improving its harbour--then Benicia might have been made something of; now I think the attempt is too late."</P>
121.sgm:<P>Advices to the 1st of February state that the wet weather had nearly put a stop to business.  The inundation of the Sacramento had subsided.  At Sonorian camps much gold had been found, one entire piece weighing upwards of 23 lb.  It was reported that a piece of nearly 85 lb. had been picked up.  Vessels continued to arrive at the rate of from six to twelve each day.  Prices for everything had ruled rather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>412</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The most interesting event in the transactions of the United States Congress, in reference to California, was the introduction of a series of resolutions into the Senate by Mr. Elby.  These resolutions proposed an amicable arrangement of all the controverted topics between the free and slave states.  The first maintained the admission of California into the American Union, free from any restriction on the exclusion or introduction of slavery within its limits.  In the second resolution, it was provided that territorial government should be established by Congress in the territories acquired from Mexico, without the imposition of any condition on the subject of slavery.  The third and fourth resolutions contended that the Western boundary of Texas should be fixed on the Rio del Norte, from its mouth to the mouth of the Sabine.  The fifth and sixth asserted that slavery ought not to be abolished in the districts of Columbia, during the existence of the institution of Maryland, without the consent of the people of the district, and a just compensation to the owners of the slaves; and that the slave-trade, under certain conditions, should be abolished within the federal districts, as repugnant to the common feelings of mankind.  In the two final resolutions, it was urged that provision should be made by Congress for the more effectual restitution of slaves in any state or territory; and that Congress had no power to prohibit the trade in slaves between the several states: that being an arrangement to be decided, according to the principles of the constitution, by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>413</PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>The Hon. Mr. King, late a member of Congress, from Georgia, and who was sent to California last spring by the President, on a special mission, for the purpose of examining and closely investigating all matters of interest in that region, in treating of the population in his report, assumes, as a minimum, that San Francisco has 25,000 inhabitants, which number will be doubled during the present year.  Sacramento city, which in April, 1849, had only 100 inhabitants, has now 10,000.  He estimates the export of gold, for 1850, at $30,000,000; and he considers the amount hitherto collected as small, compared with what it will be, when scientific and skilful miners commence their operations to that extent which the capabilities of the country will admit.</P>
121.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
121.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<BACK><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
121.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
121.sgm:<P>F. Shoberl, Jun., Printer to H.R.H. Prince Albert, Rupert St., Haymarket</P>
123.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-123</TITLE>
123.sgm:<TITLE>Eldorado, or, Adventures in the path of empire:  comprising a voyage to California, via Panama; life in San Francisco and Monterey; pictures of the gold region, and experiences of Mexican travel.  By Bayard Taylor ...: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
123.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
123.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
123.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
123.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
123.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
123.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-822</LCCN>
123.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
123.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
123.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>ELDORADO,</P>
123.sgm:<P>OR,</P>
123.sgm:<P>ADVENTURES IN THE PATH OF EMPIRE:</P>
123.sgm:<P>COMPRISING</P>
123.sgm:<P>A VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA, VIA PANAMA; LIFE IN SAN FRANCISCO <LB>AND MONTEREY; </P>
123.sgm:<P>PICTURES OF THE GOLD REGION, AND <LB>EXPERIENCES OF MEXICAN TRAVEL:</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY</P>
123.sgm:<P>BAYARD TAYLOR,</P>
123.sgm:<P>AUTHOR OF "VIEWS A-FOOT," "RHYMES OF TRAVEL," ETC.</P>
123.sgm:<P>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR.</P>
123.sgm:<P>VOL. II.</P>
123.sgm:<P>SECOND EDITION.</P>
123.sgm:<P>NEW YORK:</P>
123.sgm:<P>GEORGE P. PUTNAM, 155 BROADWAY.</P>
123.sgm:<P>LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY.</P>
123.sgm:<P>1850.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1850, by <LB>BAYARD TAYLOR, <LB>In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern <LB>District of New York.</P>
123.sgm:<P>C. W. BENEDICT, <LB><HI REND="italics">Stereotyper and Printer</HI>
123.sgm:, <LB>201 William st.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS OF VOL. II.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>Election Scenes and Mining Characters--Voting on the Mokelumne--Incidents of Digging--An Englishman in Raptures--"Buckshot"--Quicksilver--My own Gold Digging  5<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>The Rainy Season--The Ferry--Deception of the Diggers--Dry Creek and Amador's Creek--A Ranche and its Inhabitants--A Female Specimen--A Vision Relinquished    10<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>Night in Sacramento City--Perils of a Stroll--The City Music--Ethiopian Melodies--A Californian Theatre--Playing the Eavesdropper--Squatters' Quarrels--Fate of my Mare 26<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>The Overland Emigration of 1849--Its Character--The Cholera on the Plains--Salt Lake City--The Great Basin--The Nevada--Descent of the Mountains--Apathy in Peril--The Close<HSEP>34<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>The Italy of the West--Steam on the Sacramento--The Sunsets of California--A Company of Washmen--A Voracious Donkey--Attempt at Squatter Life<HSEP>46</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VI.<LB>San Francisco four months Later--Character of Business--Life and Society--Unfathomable Mud--Streets and Men<HSEP>55<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>Society in California--The Transformation of the Emigrant--The Norsemen Revived--The Energies of Society--California Democracy<HSEP>64<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>Leaving San Francisco--A German Crew and Chilian Schooner--Weathering a South-Easter--The Fire on Shore--We put Back in Distress--The Burnt District--Stemming a Flood Tide--The Steamer--Paso del Mar--Down the Coast<HSEP>69<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>Mazatlan--A Chinese Boniface--The Streets by Night and Day--The Atmosphere of the Gulf--Preparations to Leave--Solemn Warnings<HSEP>80<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>Travel in the Tierra Caliente--Tropical Winter--A Lazy Mule--Night at a Ranche--A "Caminador"--Evening at a Posada--Breakfast in El Rosario--A Jolly Hostess--Ride to La Bayona--The Palm and the Pine--Indian Robbers--Chat with the Natives--El Chucho--The Ferry of Rio Santiago--A Night of Horror<HSEP>87<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>The Ascent to the Table-Land--My Friend and Caminador--A Bargain--The People--Tepic--Sacred Mysteries at San Lionel--The Massacre of the Innocents--A Valley Picture--Crossing the Barranca<HSEP>104<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>The Robber Region--Meeting a Conducta--Tequila Below--Suspicions--The Robbers at Last--Plundered and Bound--My Liberation--A Gibbet Scene--The Kind Padre of Guadalajara<HSEP>116<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>Three Days in Guadalajara--My Hosts--An Unlucky Scotchman--Financiering--The Cabal--Notoriety--Movable Fortresses--The Alameda--Tropic Beauty by Moonlight--An Affectionate Farewell<HSEP>127 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:CHAPTER XIV.<LB>In the Diligence to Guanajuato--Pleasant Travel--The Cholera--San Juan de los Lagos--The Valley of Leon--An Enchanted City--The Eve of a Robber's Death<HSEP>137<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>The Dividing Ridge and Descent to the Valley of Mexico--The Bajio--An Escort--A Gay Padre--Zurutuza's Hacienda--The Pass of Capulalpan--Mexico<HSEP>147<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>Scenes in the Mexican Capital--Interior of the Cathedral--Street Characters--Smoking in the Theatre--Aztec Antiquities<HSEP>153<LB>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>Mexican Politics and Political Men--The Halls of Congress--Presentation of the American Minister--Herrera, his Government and Ministers<HSEP>161<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>Chapultepec and the Battle Fields--The Panorama of the Valley<HSEP>168<LB>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>The Base of Popocatapetl--Another View of the Valley--The Pine Woods of Rio Frio--Malinche--Popocatapetl and the Pyramid of Cholula--Puebla at Night<HSEP>176<LB>CHAPTER XX.<LB>Glimpses of Purgatory and Paradise--The Plains of Perote--The Rim of the Table-Land--Magnificent View--Paradise--Orizaba Mountain--The Delights of Jalapa--The Field of Cerro Gordo--The Continent Crossed<HSEP>185<LB>CHAPTER XXI.<LB>Vera Cruz and San Juan d'Ulloa--Homeward<HSEP>195</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO IN 1849,<HSEP>FRONTISPIECE.<LB>SACRAMENTO CITY--FACING CHAPTER III<HSEP>PAGE 26<LB>PORTSMOUTH SQUARE, SAN FRANCISCO,<HSEP>"  55<LB>MAZATLAN,<HSEP>"  8</P>
123.sgm:<BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>ELECTION SCENES AND MINING CHARACTERS.</P>
123.sgm:<P>ON my arrival at the Lower Bar, I found Mr. Raney, of Stockton, who had made the journey with the greatest difficulty, the roads being almost impassable.  The rainy season had now fairly set in, and as it came a month earlier than usual, the miners, in most cases, were without their winter supplies.  Provisions of all kinds had greatly advanced in price, and the cost of freight from Stockton ran up at once to 75 cts. per lb.  Flour was sold on the river at $1 per lb. and other articles were in the same proportion.  Much  anxiety was felt lest the rains should not abate, in which case there would have been a great deal of suffering on all the rivers.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The clouds gradually lowered and settled down on the topmost pines.  Towards evening a chill rain came on, and the many gullies on the hill-sides were filled with brown torrents that brawled noisily  on their way to the swollen Mokelumne.  The big drops splashed dismally on our tent, as we sat within, but a double cover kept us completely dry and the ditch dug inside the pins turned off the streams that poured down its sides.  During the night, however, the wind blew violently down the ravines, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>The Election Day dawned wet and cheerlessly.  From the folds of our canvas door, we looked out on the soaked and trickling hills and the sodden, dripping tents.  Few people were stirring about the place, and they wore such a forlorn look that all idea of getting up a special enthusiasm was at once abandoned.  There was no motion made in the matter until towards noon, as the most of the miners lay dozing in their tents.  The Alcalde acted as Judge, which was the first step; next there were two Inspectors to be appointed.  I was requested to act as one, but, although I had been long enough in the country to have held the office, I declined to accept until after application had been made to some of the inhabitants.  The acquiescence of two of the resident traders relieved me of the responsibility.  The election was held in the largest tent in the place, the Inspectors being seated behind the counter, in close proximity to the glasses and bottles, the calls for which were quite as frequent as the votes.  I occupied a seat next the Alcalde, on a rough couch covered with an India-rubber blanket, where I passed the day in looking on the election and studying the singular characters present.</P>
123.sgm:<P>As there were two or three candidates for State offices in the place, the drumming up of voters gave one a refreshing reminiscence of home.  The choosing of candidates from lists, nearly all of whom were entirely unknown, was very amusing.  Names, in many instances, were made to stand for principles; accordingly, a Mr. Fair got many votes.  One of the candidates, who had been on the river a few days previous, wearing a high-crowned silk hat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:with narrow brim, lost about twenty votes on that account.  Some went no further than to vote for those they actually knew.  One who took the opposite extreme, justified himself in this wise:--"When I left home," said he, "I was determined to go <HI REND="italics">blind</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The votes polled amounted to one hundred and five, all of which were "For the Constitution."  The number of miners on the Bar, who were entitled to vote, was probably double this number, but those who were at work up among the gulches remained in their tents, on account of the rain.  A company on the other side of the river was completely cut off from the polls by the rise of the flood, which made it impossible for them to cross.  The Inspectors were puzzled at first how far to extend the privilege of suffrage to the Mexicans.  There was no copy of the Treaty of Queretaro to be had, and the exact wording of the clause referring to this subject was not  remembered.  It was at last decided, however, that those who had been residing in the country since the conquest, and intended to remain permanently, might be admitted to vote; and the question was therefore put to each one in turn.  The most of them answered readily in the affirmative, and seemed delighted to be considered as citizens.  " <HI REND="italics">Como no</HI>
123.sgm:?"  said a fat, good-humored fellow, with a ruddy olive face, as he gave his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:sarape a new twirl over his shoulder: " <HI REND="italics">Como no? soy Americano ahora</HI>
123.sgm:<P>During the few days I spent on the Mokelumne, I had an opportunity of becoming acquainted with many curious characteristics and incidents of mining life.  It would have been an interesting study for a philosopher, to note the different effects which sudden enrichment produced upon different persons, especially those whose lives had previously been passed in the midst of poverty and privation.  The most profound scholar in human nature might here have learned something which all his previous wisdom and experience ould never could teach.  It was not precisely the development of new qualities in the man, but the exhibition of changes and contrasts of character, unexpected and almost unaccountable.  The world-old moral of gold was completely falsified.  Those who were unused to labor, whose daily ounce or two seemed a poor recompense for weary muscles and flagging spirits, might carefully hoard their gains; but they whose hardy fibre grappled with the tough earth as naturally as if it knew no fitter play, and made the coarse gravel and rocky strata yield up their precious grains, were as profuse as princes and as open-hearted as philanthropists.  Weather-beaten tars, wiry, delving Irishmen, and stalwart foresters from the wilds of Missouri, became a race of sybarites and epicureans.  Secure in possessing the "Open Sesame&acute;" to the exhaustless treasury under their feet, they gave free rein to every whim or impulse which could possibly be gratified.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>It was no unusual thing to see a company of these men, who had never before had a thought of luxury beyond a good beefsteak and a glass of whiskey, drinking their champagne at ten dollars a bottle, and eating their tongue and sardines, or warming in the smoky camp-kettle their tin canisters of turtle-soup and lobster-salad.  It was frequently remarked that the Oregonians, though accustomed all their lives to the most simple, solid and temperate fare, went beyond every other class of miners in their fondness for champagne and all kinds of cordials and choice liquors.  These were the only luxuries they indulged in, for they were, to a man, cautious and economical in the use of gold.</P>
123.sgm:<P>One of the most amusing cases I saw was that of a company of Englishmen, from New South Wales, who had been on the Mokelumne about a week at the time of my visit.  They had only landed in California two weeks previous, and this was their first experience of gold-digging.  One of them, a tall, strong-limbed fellow, who had served seven years as a private of cavalry, was unceasing in his exclamations of wonder and delight.  He repeated his story from morning till night, and in the fullness of his heart communicated it to every new face he saw.  "By me soul, but this is a great country!" he would exclaim; "here a man can dig up as much goold in a day as he ever saw in all his life.  Hav'n't I got already more than I know what to do with, an' I've only been here a week.  An' to think 'at I come here with never a single bloody farthing in my pocket!  An' the Frenchman, down the hill there, him 'at sells wittles, he wouldn't trust me for a piece of bread, the devil take him!  `If ye 've no money, go an' dig some;' says he; `people dig here o' Sundays all the same.'  `Ill dig o' Sundays for no man, ye bloody villain;' says I, `I'll starve first.'  An' I did'nt, an' I had a hungry belly, too.  But <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>There was one character on the river, whom I had met on my</P>
123.sgm:<P>first visit in August and still found there on my return.  He possessed sufficient individuality of appearance and habits to </P>
123.sgm:<P>have made him a hero of fiction; Cooper would have delighted to have stumbled upon him.  His real name I never learned, but he was known to all the miners by the cognomen of "Buckshot"--an appellation which seemed to suit his hard, squab figure very well.  He might have been forty years of age or perhaps fifty; his face was but slightly wrinkled, and he wore a heavy black beard which grew nearly to his eyes and entirely concealed his mouth.  When he removed his worn and dusty felt hat, which was but seldom, his large, square forehead, bald crown and serious gray eyes gave him an appearance of reflective intellect;--a promise hardly verified by his conversation.  He was of a stout and sturdy frame, and always wore clothes of a coarse texture, with a flannel shirt and belt containing a knife.  I guessed from a slight peculiarity of his accent that he was a German by birth, though I believe he was not considered so by the miners.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The habits of "Buckshot" were still more eccentric than his    appearance.  He lived entirely alone, in a small tent, and seemed rather to shun than court the society of others.  His tastes were exceedingly luxurious; he always had the best of everything in the market, regardless of its cost.  The finest hams, at a dollar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>Among the number of miners scattered through the different  gulches, I met daily with men of education and intelligence, from  all parts of the United States.  It was never safe to presume on  a person's character, from his dress or appearance.  A rough, dirty, sunburnt fellow, with unshorn beard, quarrying away for life at the bottom of some rocky hole, might be a graduate of one of the first colleges in the country, and a man of genuine refinement and taste.  I foun plenty of men who were not outwardly distinguishable from th inveterate trapper or mountaineer, but who, a year before, ha been patientless physicians, briefless lawyers and half-starve editors.  It was this infusion of intelligence which gave the gold-hunting communities, notwithstanding their barbaric exterior and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Since my first visit, the use of quicksilver had been introduced on the river, and the success which attended its application to gold-washing will bring it henceforth into general use.  An improved rocker, having three or four lateral gutters in its bottom, which were filled with quicksilver, took up the gold so perfectly, that not the slightest trace of it could be discovered in the refuse earth.  The black sand, which was formerly rejected, was washed in a bowl containing a little quicksilver in the bottom, and the amalgam formed by the gold yielded four dollars to every pound of sand.  Mr. James, who had washed out a great deal of this sand, evaporated the quicksilver in a retort, and produced a cake of fine gold worth nearly five hundred dollars.  The machines sold at one thousand dollars apiece, the owners having wisely taken the precaution to have them patented.</P>
123.sgm:<P>There is no doubt that, by means of quicksilver, much of the  soil which has heretofore been passed by as worthless, will give  a rich return.  The day before my departure, Dr. Gillette washed  out several panfuls of earth from the very top of the hills, and  found it to contain abundance of fine grains of gold.  A heap of   refuse earth, left by the common rocker after ten thousand dollars had been washed, yielded still another thousand to the new machine.  Quicksilver was enormously high, four dollars a pound having been paid in Stockton.  When the mines of Santa Clara shall be in operation, the price will be so much reduced that its use will become universal and the annual golden harvest be thereby greatly increased.  It will be many years before all the placers or gold deposits are touched, no matter how large the emigration to California may be.  The region in which all the mining operations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>I was strongly tempted to take hold of the pick and pan, and  try my luck in the gulches for a week or two.  I had fully intended, on reaching California, to have personally tested the pleasure of gold-digging, as much for the sake of a thorough experience of life among the placers as from a sly hope of striking on a pocket full of big lumps.  The unexpected coming-on of the rainy season, made my time of too much account, besides adding greatly to the hardships of the business.  Two or three days' practice is requisite to handle the implements properly, and I had no notion of learning the manipulations without fingering the gold.  Once, indeed, I took a butcher-knife, went into one of the forsaken holes in the big gulch, lay on my back as I had seen the other miners do, and endeavored to pick out some yellow grains from the crevices of the crumbling rock.  My search was vain, however, and I was indebted to the kindness of some friends for the only specimens I brought away from the Diggings.</P>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>THE RAINY SEASON.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I LEFT the Mokelumne River the afternoon following Election   Day, and retraced my path to Jackson's Creek, which I reached at  dark.  Being unhorsed, I resumed my old plodding gait, "packing" my blankets and spurs.  I was obliged to walk to the Upper Bar, in order to cross the Mokelumne, whose current was now very deep  and rapid.  A man named Bills, who kept a brush hotel with a canvas roof, had set up an impromptu ferry, made by nailing a few planks upon four empty barrels, lashed together.  This clumsy float was put over by means of a rope stretched from bank to bank.  The tendency of the barrels to roll in the swift current, made it very insecure for more than two persons.  The same morning, four men who were crossing at once, overbore its delicate equilibrium and were tipped into the water, whence they were rescued with some difficulty.  A load of freight met with the same luck just before I reached the ferry.  The banks were heaped with barrels, trunks, crates of onions and boxes of liquor, waiting to be taken over, and some of the Mexican arrieros were endeavoring to push their pack-mules into the water  and force them to swim.  I took my place on the unsteady platform  with some doubts of a dry skin, but as we were all careful to keep a plumb line, the passage was made in safety.</P>
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123.sgm:<P>I toiled up the windings of a deep gulch, whose loneliness,  after I had passed the winter huts of the gold-diggers, was made  very impressive by the gathering twilight.  The gray rocks which  walled it in towards the summit looked dim and spectral under the  eaves of the pines, and a stream of turbid water splashed with a  melancholy sound into the chasm below.  The transparent glimmer  of the lighted tents on Jackson's Creek had a cherry look as seen  at the bottom of the gulch on the other side of the mountain.  I  stopped at Cosgrove's tent, where several travelers who had  arrived before me were awaiting supper.  We sat about the fire  and talked of gold-digging, the election and the prospect of  supplies for the winter.  When Mrs. Cosgrove had finished frying  her beef and boiling her coffee, we rolled to the table all the  casks, boxes and logs we could find, and sat down to our meal under the open stars.  A Chinook Indian from Oregon acted as waiter--an attendance which we would rather have dispensed with.  I was offered a raw-hide in one corner of a small storage-tent, and spread my blanket upon it; the dampness of the earth, however, striking through both hide and blankets, gave me several chills and rheumatic pains of the joints, before morning.  The little community established on the knoll numbered about sixty persons.  They were all settled there for the winter, though the gold dug did not average more than half an ounce to each man, daily.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Next morning, I crossed the hills to Sutter's Creek, where I  found the settlement increased by several new arrivals.  From this place my path branched off to the north, crossing several mountain ridges to Amador's Creek, which, like the streams I had already passed, was lined with tents and winter cabins.  I questioned several miners about their profits, but could get no satisfactory answer.  Singularly enough, it is almost impossible to learn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Leaving Amador's Creek, a walk of seven miles took me to Dry  Creek, where I found a population of from two to three hundred, established for the winter.  The village was laid out with some regularity, and had taverns, stores, butchers' shops and montetables.  The digging was going on briskly, and averaged a good return.  The best I could hear of, was $114 in two days, constrasted with which were the stories of several who had got nothing but the fever and ague for their pains.  The amount of sickness on these small rivers during the season had been very great, and but a small part of it, in my opinion, was to be ascribed to excesses of any kind.  All new countries, it is well known, breed fever and ague, and this was especially the case in the gold region, where, before the rains came on, the miner was exposed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>At all these winter settlements, however small, an alcalde is chosen and regulations established, as near as possible in accordance with the existing laws of the country.  Although the authority exercised by the alcalde is sometimes nearly absolute, the miners invariably respect and uphold it.  Thus, at whatever cost, order and security are preserved; and when the State organization shall have been completed, the mining communities, for an extent of five hundred miles, will, by a quiet and easy process, pass into regularly constituted towns, and enjoy as good government and protection as any other part of the State.  Nothing in California seemed more miraculous to me than this spontaneous evolution of social order from the worst elements of anarchy.  It was a lesson worth even more than the gold.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The settlement on Dry Creek is just on the skirts of the rough mountain region--the country of can&tilde;ons, gulches, can&tilde;adas and divides; terms as familar in the diggings as "per cent" in Wallstreet.  I had intended to strike directly across the mountains to the American Fork.  The people represented this route to be impracticable, and the jagged ridges, ramparted with rock, which towered up in that direction, seemed to verify the story, so I took the trail for Daly's Ranche, twenty-two miles distant.  After passing the Willow Springs, a log hut on the edge of a swamp, the road descended to the lower hills, where it was crossed by frequent streams.  I passed on the way a group of Indians who were skinning a horse they had killed and were about to roast.  They were well armed and had probably shot the horse while it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>In traveling through these low hills, I passed several companies of miners who were engaged in erecting log huts for the winter.  The gravelly bottoms in many places showed traces of their prospecting, and the rocker was in operation where there was sufficient water.  When I inquired the yield of gold I could get no satisfactory answer, but the faces of the men betrayed no sign of disappointment.  While resting under a leafless oak, I was joined by a boy of nineteen who had been digging on the Dry Creek and was now returning to San Francisco, ague-stricken and penniless.  We walked on in company for several hours, under a dull gray sky, which momentarily threatened rain.  The hot flush of fever was on his face, and he seemed utterly desponding and disinclined to talk.  Towards night, when the sky had grown darker, he declared himself unable to go further, but I encouraged him to keep on until we reached a cabin, where the miners kindly received him for the night.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I met on the road many emigrant wagons, bound for the diggings.  They traveled in companies of two and three, joining teams whenever their wagons stuck fast in the mire.  Some were obliged to unload at the toughest places, and leave part of their stores on the Plain until they could return from their Winter quarters.  Their noon camps would be veritable treasures for my friend Darley, the artist, if he could have seen them.  The men were all gaunt, long-limbed Rip Van Winkles, with brown faces, matted hair and beards, and garments which seemed to have grown up with them, for you could not believe they had ever been taken off.  The women, who were somewhat more tidy, had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>At night, after a toilsome journey, I reached the Cosumne River, two miles below the diggings.  I was wet from the swamps I crossed and the pools I had waded, weary in body, and thoroughly convinced of the impossibility of traveling on the Plains during the rainy season.  One would think, from the parched and seamed appearance of the soil in summer, that nothing short of an absolute deluge could restore the usual moisture.  A single rain, however, fills up the cracks, and a week of wet weather turns the dusty plain into a deep mire, the hollows into pools, and the stony arroyos into roaring streams.  The roads then become impassable for wagons, killing to mules, and terribly laborious for pedestrians.  In the loose, gravelly soil on the hilltops, a horse at once sinks above his knees, and the only chance of travel is by taking the clayey bottoms.  Where, a month before there had been a <HI REND="italics">jornada</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Where the trail struck the river I came upon a small tent,  pitched by the roadside, and was hailed by the occupants.  They  were two young men from Boston, who came out in the summer, went   to the North-Fork of the American, prospered in their digging, and were going southward to spend the winter.  They were good specimens of the sober, hardy, persevering gold-digger--a class who never fail to make their "pile."  I willingly accepted their invitation to spend the night, whereupon they threw another log on the camp-fire, mixed some batter for slap-jacks, and put a piece of salt pork in the pan.  We did not remain long about the fire, after my supper was finished.  Uniting our store of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The morning brought another rain, and the roads grew deeper  and tougher.  At Coates's Ranche, two miles further, I was ferried across the Cosumne in a canoe.  The river was falling, and teams could barely pass.  The day previous a wagon and team had been washed several hundred yards down the stream, and the owners were still endeavoring to recover the running works which lay in a deep hole.  Several emigrant companies were camped on the grassy bottoms along the river, waiting a chance to cross.  At the ranche I found breakfast just on the table, and to be had at the usual price of a dollar and a half; the fare consisted of beef broiled in the fire, coarse bread, frijoles and coffee.  The landlady was a German emigrant, but had been so long among the American settlers and native rancheros, that her talk was a three-stranded twist of the different languages.  She seemed quite unconscious that she was not talking in a single tongue, for all three came to serve her thought with equal readiness.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I stood in the door some time, deliberating what to do.  The  sky had closed in upon the plain with a cheerless drizzle, which   made walking very uncomfortable, and I could find no promise of  a favorable change of weather.  My intention had been to visit Mormon  Island and afterwards Culloma Mill, on the American Fork.  The former  place was about thirty miles distant, but the trail was faint and difficult to find; while, should the rain increase, I could not hope to make the journey in one day.  The walk to Sacramento presented an equally dispiriting aspect, but after some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>When the rain slacked, I walked back to one of the other ranches,  where I found several miners who had taken shelter in a new adobe house, which was partially thatched.  We gathered together in a room, the floor of which was covered with wet tule&acute; and endeavored to keep ourselves warm.  The place was so chill that I went into the house inhabited by the family, and asked permission to dry myself at the fire.  The occupants were two women, apparently sisters, of the ages of eighteen and thirty; the younger would have been handsome, but for an expression of habitual discontent and general contempt of everything.  They made no answer to my request, so I took a chair and sat down near the blaze.  Two female tongues, however, cannot long keep silent, and presently the elder launched into a violent anathema against all emi <HI REND="italics">grants</HI>
123.sgm:, as she called them.  I soon learned that she had been in the country three years; that she had at first been living on Bear Creek; that the overland emigrants, the previous year, having come into the country almost  destitute, appropriated some of the supplies which had been left   at home while the family was absent gold-hunting; and, finally, that the fear of being in future <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:plundered of their cattle and wheat had driven them to the banks of the Cosumne, where they had hoped for some security.  They were deceived, however; the emi <HI REND="italics">grants</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Most especially did the elder express her resentment against the said emigrants, on account of their treatment of the Indians.  I felt disposed at first to agree with her wholly in their condemnation, but it appeared that she was influenced by other motives than those of humanity.  "Afore these here emi <HI REND="italics">grants</HI>
123.sgm: come," said she; "the Injuns were as well-behaved and bidable as could be; I liked 'em more 'n the whites.  When we begun to find gold on the Yuber, we could git 'em to work for us day in and day out, fur next to nothin'.  We told 'em the gold was stuff to whitewash houses with, and give 'em a hankercher for a tin-cup full; but after the emi <HI REND="italics">grants</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I took advantage of a break in this streak of "chain lightning," to inquire whether Dr. Gwin and Gen. Morse had recently passed that way; but they did not know them by name.  "Well," said I, "the gentlemen who are trying to get elected."  "Yes," rejoined the elder, " <HI REND="italics">them</HI>
123.sgm: people <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
123.sgm: here.  They stuck their heads in the door one night and asked if they might have supper and lodgin'.  I told 'em no, I guessed they couldn't.  Jist then Mr. Kewen come along; he know'd 'em and made 'em acquainted.  Gosh! but I was mad.  I <HI REND="italics">had</HI>
123.sgm: to git supper for 'em <HI REND="italics">then</HI>
123.sgm:; but if 't'd a bin <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
123.sgm:, I'd had more spunk than to eat, after I'd bin told I couldn't."  It had been difficult for me to keep a serious countenance before, but now I burst into a hearty laugh, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:they took as a compliment to their "spunk."  One of the household, a man of some education, questioned me as to the object of my emigration to California, which I explained without reserve.  This, however, brought on another violent expression of opinion from the same female.  "That's jist the way," said she; " <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
123.sgm: people come here, think they've done great things, and go home and publish all sorts of lies; but they don't know no more'n nothin' in God A'mighty's world, as much as <HI REND="italics">them</HI>
123.sgm:<P>We slept together on the earthen floor.  All night the rain pattered on the <HI REND="italics">tule&acute;</HI>
123.sgm: thatch, but at sunrise it ceased.  The sky was still lowering, and the roads were growing worse so rapidly, that instead of starting across the plains for Mormon Island, the nearest point on the American Fork where the miners were at work, I turned about for Sacramento City, thinking it best to return while there was a chance.  A little experience of travel over the saturated soil soon convinced me that my tour in the mountains was over.  I could easily relinquish my anticipations of a visit to the mining regions of the American Fork, Bear and Yuba Rivers, for life at the different diggings is very much the same, and the character of the gold deposits does not materially vary; but there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I was accompanied by one of the "Iowa Rangers," from Dubuque, Iowa.  He had been at work at the Dry Diggings on Weaver's Creek.  He was just recovering from the scurvy, and could not travel fast, but was an excellent hand at wading.  Before reaching the timber of the American Fork, we crossed thirty or forty streams, many of which were knee-deep.  Where they were so wide as to render a leap impossible, my plan was to dash through at full speed, and I generally got over with but a partial saturation: the broad, shallow pools obliged us to stop and pull off our boots.  It was one form of the water-cure I did not relish.  "If <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>On the banks of the American Fork we found a sandy soil and made better progress.  Following that beautiful stream through the afternoon, we came at dusk to Sutter's Fort, which was surrounded by a moat of deep mud.  I picked my way in the dark to Sacramento City, but was several times lost in its tented labyrinths before I reached Capt. Baker's store--under whose hospitable roof I laid down my pack and took up my abode for several days.</P>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>NIGHT IN SACRAMENTO CITY.</P>
123.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO CITY was one place by day and another by night; and of the two, its night-side was the most peculiar.  As the day went down dull and cloudy, a thin fog gathered in the humid atmosphere, through which the canvas houses, lighted from within, shone with a broad, obscure gleam, that confused the eye and made the streets most familiar by daylight look strangely different.  They bore no resemblance to the same places, seen at mid-day, under a break of clear sunshine, and pervaded with the stir of business life.  The town, regular as it was, became a bewildering labyrinth of half-light and deep darkness, and the perils of traversing it were greatly increased by the mire and frequent pools left by the rain.</P>
123.sgm:<P>To one, venturing out after dark for the first time, these perils were by no means imaginary.  Each man wore boots reaching to the knees--or higher, if he could get them--with the pantaloons tucked inside, but there were pit-falls, into which had he fallen, even these would have availed little.  In the more frequented streets, where drinking and gambling had full swing, there was a partial light, streaming out through doors and crimson window-curtains, to guide his steps.  Sometimes a platform of plank <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>kick from one of the vicious animals; tentropes and pins took him  across the shins, and the horned heads of cattle, left where they  were slaughtered, lay ready to gore him at every step.  A walk of  any distance, environed by such dangers, especially when the air was damp and chill, and there was a possibility of rain at any moment, presented no attractions to the weary denizens of the place.</P>
123.sgm:<P>A great part of them, indeed, took to their blankets soon after dark.  They were generally worn out with the many excitements of the day, and glad to find a position of repose.  Reading was out of the question to the most of them when candles were $4 per lb. and scarce at that; but in any case, the preternatural activity and employment of mind induced by the business habits of the place would have made impossible anything like quiet thought.  I saw many persons who had brought the works of favorite authors with them, for recreation at odd hours, but of all the works thus brought, I never saw one read.  Men preferred--or rather it grew, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:involuntarily, into a custom--to lie at ease instead, and turn over in the brain all their shifts and man&oelig;uvres of speculation, to see whether any chance had been left untouched.  Some, grouped around a little pocket-stove, beguile an hour or two over their cans of steaming punch or other warming concoction, and build schemes out  of the smoke of their rank Guayaquil <HI REND="italics">puros</HI>
123.sgm:<P>There is, however, a large floating community of overland emigrants, miners and sporting characters, who prolong the wakefulness of the streets far into the night.  The door of many a gambling-hell on the levee, and in J and K streets, stands invitingly open; the wail of torture from innumerable musical instruments peals from all quarters through the fog and darkness.  Full bands, each playing different tunes discordantly, are stationed in front of the principal establishments, and as these happen to be near together, the mingling of the sounds in one horrid, ear-splitting, brazen chaos, would drive frantic a man of delicate nerve.  All one's old acquaintances in the amateur-music line, seem to have followed him.  The gentleman who played the flute in the next room to yours, at home, has been hired at an ounce a night to perform in the drinking-tent across the way; the very French horn whose lamentations used to awake you dismally from the first sweet snooze, now greets you at some corner; and all the squeaking violins, grumbling violincellos and rowdy trumpets which have severally plagued you in other times, are congregated here, in loving proximity.  The very strength, loudness and confusion of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Some of the establishments have small companies of Ethiopian  melodists, who nightly call upon "Susanna!" and entreat to be carried  back to Old Virginny.  These songs are universally popular, and the crowd of listeners is often so great as to embarrass the player at the monte tables and injure the business of the gamblers.  I confess to a strong liking for the Ethiopian airs, and used to spend half an hour every night in listening to them and watching the curious expressions of satisfaction and delight in the faces of the overland emigrants, who always attended in a body.  The spirit of the music was always encouraging; even its most doleful passages had a grotesque  touch of cheerfulness--a mingling of sincere pathos and whimsical  consolation, which somehow took hold of all moods in which it might be heard, raising them to the same notch of careless good-humor.  The Ethiopian melodies well deserve to be called, as they are in fact, the national airs of America.  Their quaint, mock-sentimental cadences, so well suited to the broad absurdity of the words--their reckless gaiety and irreverent familiarity with serious subjects--and their spirit of antagonism and perseverance--are true expressions of the more popular sides of the national character.  They follow the American race in all its emigrations, colonizations and conquests, as certainly as the Fourth of July and Thanksgiving Day.  The penniless and half-despairing emigrant is stimulated to try again by the sound of "It'll never do to give it up so!" and feels a pang of home-sickness at the burthen of the "Old Virginia Shore."</P>
123.sgm:<P>At the time of which I am writing, Sacramento City boasted the only theatre in California.  Its performances, three times a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The overture commences; the orchestra is composed of only five members, under the direction of an Italian, and performs with tolerable correctness.  The piece for the night is "The Spectre of the Forest,"  in which the celebrated actress, Mrs. Ray, "of the Royal Theatre, New Zealand," will appear.  The bell rings; the curtain rolls up; and we look upon a forest scene, in the midst of which appears Hildebrand, the robber, in a sky-blue mantle.  The foliage of the forest is of a dark-red color, which makes a great impression on the spectators and prepares them for the bloody scenes that are to follow.  The other characters are a brave knight in a purple dress, with his servant in scarlet; they are about to storm the robber's hold and carry off a captive maiden.  Several acts are filled with the usual amount of fighting and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>In the closing scenes, where Hildebrand entreats the heroine to become his bride, Mrs. Ray shone in all her glory.  "No!" said  she, "I'd rather take a basilisk and wrap its cold fangs around me, than be clasped in the hembraces of an 'artless robber." Then, changing her tone to that of entreaty, she calls upon the knight in purple, whom she declares to be "me 'ope--me only'ope!"  We will not stay to hear the songs and duetts which follow; the tragedy has been a sufficient infliction.  For her "'art-rending"  personations, Mrs. Ray received $200 a week, and the wages of the other actors were in the same proportion.  A musical gentleman was paid $96 for singing "The Sea!" in a deep bass voice.  The usual sum paid musicians was $16 a night.  A Swiss organ-girl, by playing in the various hells, accumulated $4000 in the course of five or six months.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The southern part of Sacramento City, where the most of the   overland emigrants had located themselves, was an interesting place for a night-ramble, when one had courage to undertake threading the thickets among which their tents were pitched.  There, on fallen logs about their camp-fires, might be seen groups that had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Often, too, without playing the eavesdropper, one might mingle unseen with a great many of their companies gathered together inside the tents.  The thin, transparent canvas revealed the shadows of their forms, and was no impediment to the sound of their voices; besides, as they generally spoke in a bold, hearty tone, every word could be overheard at twenty yards' distance.  The fragments of conversation which were caught in walking through this part of the city made a strange but most interesting medley.  There were narratives of old experience on the Plains; notes about the passage of the mountains compared; reminiscences of the Salt Lake City and its strange enthusiasts; sufferings at the sink of Humboldt's River and in the Salt Desert recalled, and opinions of California in general, given in a general manner.  The conversation, however, was sure to wind up with a talk about home--a lamentation for its missed comforts and frequently a regret at having forsaken them.  The subject was inexhaustible, and when once they commenced calling up the scenes and incidents of their life in the Atlantic or Mississippi world, everything else was forgotten.  At such times, and hearing snatches of these conversations, I too was carried home by an irresistible longing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Before I left the place, the number of emigrants settled there for the winter amounted to two or three thousand.  They were all located on the vacant lots, which had been surveyed by the original owners of the town and were by them sold to others.  The emigrants, who supposed that the land belonged of right to the United States, boldly declared their intention of retaining possession of it.  Each man voted himself a lot, defying the threats and remonstrances of the rightful owners.  The town was greatly agitated for a time by these disputes; meetings were held by both parties, and the spirit of hostility ran to a high pitch.  At the time of my leaving the country, the matter was still unsettled, but the flood which occurred soon after, by sweeping both squatters and speculators off the ground, balanced accounts for awhile and left the field clear for a new start.</P>
123.sgm:<P>In the gambling-hells, under the excitement of liquor and play, a fight was no unusual occurrence.  More than once, while walking in the streets at a late hour, I heard the report of a pistol; once, indeed, I came near witnessing a horrid affray, in which one of the parties was so much injured that he lay for many days blind, and at the point of death.  I was within a few steps of the door, and heard the firing in time to retreat.  The punishment for these quarrels, when inflicted--which was very rarely done--was not so prompt and terrible as for theft; but, to give the gambling community their due, their conduct was much more orderly and respectable than it is wont to be in other countries.  This, however, was not so much a merit of their own possessing, as the effect of a strong public sentiment in favor of preserving order.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I must not omit to mention the fate of my old gray mare, who  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>THE OVERLAND EMIGRATION OF 1849.</P>
123.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO CITY was the goal of the emigration by the northern routes.  From the beginning of August to the last of December scarcely a day passed without the arrival of some man or company of men and families, from the mountains, to pitch their tents for a few days on the bank of the river and rest from their months of hardship.  The vicissitudes through which these people had passed, the perils they had encountered and the toils they had endured seem to me without precedent in History.  The story of thirty thousand souls accomplishing a journey of more than two thousand miles through a savage and but partially explored wilderness, crossing on their way two mountain chains equal to the Alps in height and asperity, besides broad tracts of burning desert, and plains of nearly equal desolation, where a few patches of stunted shrubs and springs of brackish water were their only stay, has in it so much of heroism, of daring and of sublime endurance, that we may vainly question the records of any age for its equal.  Standing as I was, at the closing stage of that grand pilgrimage, the sight of these adventurers as they came in day by day, and the hearing of their stories, each of which had its own peculiar and separate character, had a more fascinating, because more real interest than the tales of the glorious old travelers which so impress us in childhood.</P>
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123.sgm:<P>It would be impossible to give, in a general description of the emigration, viewed as one great movement, a complete idea of its many wonderful phases.  The experience of any single man, which a few years ago would have made him a hero for life, becomes mere common-place, when it is but one of many thousands; yet the spectacle of a great continent, through a region of one thousand miles from north to south, being overrun with these adventurous bands, cannot be pictured without the relation of many episodes of individual bravery and suffering.  I will not attempt a full account of the emigration, but, as I have already given an outline of the stories of those who came by the Gila route, a similar sketch of what those encountered who took the Northern route--the great overland highway of the Continent--will not be without its interest in this place.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The great starting point for this route was Independence, Mo., where thousands were encamped through the month of April, waiting until the grass should be sufficiently high for their cattle, before they ventured on the broad ocean of the Plains.  From the first of May to the first of June, company after company took its departure from the frontier of civilization, till the emigrant trail from Fort Leavenworth, on the Missouri, to Fort Laramie, at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, was one long line of mule-trains and wagons.  The rich meadows of the Nebraska, or Platte, were settled for the time, and a single traveler could have journeyed for the space of a thousand miles, as certain of his lodging and regular meals as if he were riding through the old agricultural districts of the Middle States.  The wandering tribes of Indians on the Plains--the Pawnees, Sioux and Arapahoes--were alarmed and bewildered by this strange apparition.  They believed they were about to be swept away forever from their hunting-grounds and graves.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Another and more terrible scourge, however, was doomed to fall upon them.  The cholera, ascending the Mississippi from New Orleans, reached St. Louis about the time of their departure from Independence, and overtook them before they were fairly embarked on the wilderness.  The frequent rains of the early spring, added to the hardship and exposure of their travel, prepared the way for its ravages, and the first three or four hundred miles of the trail were marked by graves.  It is estimated that about four thousand persons perished from this cause.  Men were seized without warning with the most violent symptoms, and instances occurred in which the sufferer was left to die alone by the road-side, while his panic-stricken companions pushed forward, vainly trusting to get beyond the influence of the epidemic.  Rough boards were planted at the graves of those who were buried near the trail, but there are hundreds of others lying unmarked by any memorial, on the bleak surface of the open plain and among the barren depths of the mountains.  I have heard men tell how they have gone aside from their company to bury some old and cherished friend--a brother, it may often have been--performing the last rites alone and unaided, and leaving the remains where none but the wolf will ever seek their resting-place.</P>
123.sgm:<P>By the time the companies reached Fort Laramie the epidemic  had expended its violence, and in the pure air of the elevated mountain region they were safe from its further attacks.  Now, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>It must have been a remarkable scene, which the City of the   Great Salt Lake presented during the summer.  There, a community of religious enthusiasts, numbering about ten thousand, had established themselves beside an inland sea, in a grand valley shut in by snow-capped mountains, a thousand miles from any other civilized spot, and were dreaming of rebuilding the Temple and creating a New Jerusalem.  Without this resting-place in mid-journey, the sufferings of the emigrants must have been much aggravated.  The Mormons, however, whose rich grain-lands in the Valley of the Utah River had produced them abundance of supplies, were able to spare sufficient for those whose stock was exhausted.  Two or three thousand, who arrived late in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Those who set out for California had the worst yet in store for them.  Crossing the alternate sandy wastes and rugged mountain chains of the Great Basin to the Valley of Humboldt's River, they were obliged to trust entirely to their worn and weary animals for reaching the Sierra Nevada before the winter snows.  The grass was scarce and now fast drying up in the scorching heat of mid-summer.  In the endeavor to hasten forward and get the first chance of pasture, many again committed the same mistake of throwing away their supplies.  I was told of one man, who, with a refinement of malice and cruelty which it would be impossible to surpass, set fire to the meadows of dry grass, for the sole purpose, it was supposed, of retarding the progress of those who were behind and might else overtake him.  A company of the emigrants, on the best horses which were to be obtained, pursued him and shot him from the saddle as he rode--a fate scarcely equal to his deserts.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The progress of the emigrants along the Valley of Humboldt's  River is described as having been slow and toilsome in the extreme.  The River, which lies entirely within the Great Basin,--whose waters, like those of the uplands of Central Asia, have no connexion with the sea--shrinks away towards the end of summer, and finally loses itself in the sand, at a place called the Sink.  Here, the single trail across the Basin divides into three branches, and the emigrants, leaving the scanty meadows about the Sink, have before them an arid desert, varying from fifty to eighty miles in breadth, according to the route which they take.  Many companies, on arriving at this place, were obliged to stop and recruit their exhausted animals, though exposed to the danger of being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The two latter routes are the shortest and best.  After leaving the Sink of Humboldt's River, and crossing a desert of about fifty miles in breadth, the emigrant reaches the streams which are fed from the Sierra Nevada, where he finds good grass and plenty of game.  The passes are described as terribly rugged and precipitous, leading directly up the face of the great snowy ridge.  As, however, they are not quite eight thousand feet above the sea, and are reached from a plateau of more than four thousand feet, the ascent is comparatively short; while, on the western side, more than a hundred miles of mountain country must be passed, before reaching the level of the Sacramento Valley.  There are frequent passes in the Sierra Nevada which were never crossed before the summer of 1849.  Some of the emigrants, diverging from the known trail, sought a road for themselves, and found their way down from the snows to the head waters of the Tuolumne, the Calaveras and Feather River.  The eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada is but imperfectly explored.  All the emigrants concurred in representing it to me as an abrupt and broken region, the higher peaks of barren granite, the valleys deep and narrow, yet in many places timbered with pine and cedar of immense growth.</P>
123.sgm:<P>After passing the dividing ridge,--the descent from which was rendered almost impossible by precipices and steeps of naked  rock--about thirty miles of alternate can&tilde;ons and divides lay between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>In August, before his departure for Oregon, Gen. Smith took the responsibility of ordering pack-mules and supplies to be provided  at the expense of Government, and gave Major Rucker orders to dispatch relief companies into the Great Basin to succor the emigrants who might be remaining there, for want of provisions to advance further.  In this step he was also warmly seconded by Gen. Riley, and the preparations were made with the least possible delay.  Public meetings of the citizens of San Francisco were also held, to contribute means of relief.  Major Rucker dispatched a party with supplies and fresh animals by way of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Those who took the trail for Lawson's Pass fared even worse.  They had been grossly deceived with regard to the route, which, instead of being a nearer passage into California, is actually two hundred miles longer than the other routes, and though there is no ridge of equal height to be crossed, the amount of rough mountain travel is even greater.  The trail, after crossing the Sierra by a low gap, (which has lately been mentioned in connection with the Pacific Railroad,) enters the Valley of Pitt River, one of the tributaries of the Upper Sacramento.  Following the course of this river for about ninety miles, it reaches a spur of the Sierra Nevada, which runs from the head waters of Feather River to near the Shaste Peak, closing up the level of the lower Sacramento Valley.  These mountains are from five to six thousand feet in height and rugged in the extreme, and over them the weary emigrant must pass before the Land of Promise--the rich Valley of the Sacramento--meets his view.</P>
123.sgm:<P>At the time I returned to Sacramento City, Major Rucker had   just returned from his expedition.  He found a large body of emigrants scattered along Pitt River, many of them entirely destitute of provisions and others without their animals, which the predatory Indians of that region had stolen.  Owing to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Of the companies which came by this route several small parties struck into the mountains to the southward of Pitt River, hoping to find an easy road to the diggings on Feather River.  Of these, some reached the river, after many days of suffering and danger; others retraced their steps and by making desperate efforts regained the companies on Pitt River, while some, who had not been heard of at the time I left, were either locked up for the winter in the midst of terrible snows, or had already perished from hunger.  I met with one or two who had been several days in the mountains without food, and only escaped death by a miracle.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>It happened to the emigrants as Major Rucker had forewarned   them.  A letter from Mr. Peoples, which he received during my stay, gave a most striking account of the hardships to which they had subjected themselves.  A violent storm came on while they were crossing the mountains to Deer Creek, and the mules, unaccustomed to the severe cold, sank down and died one after another.  In spite of their remonstrances, Mr. Peoples obliged them to leave their wagons and hurry forward with the remaining animals.  The women, who seemed to have far more energy and endurance than the men, were mounted on mules, and the whole party pushed on through the bleak passes of the mountains in the face of a raging storm.  By extraordinary exertions, they were all finally brought into the Sacramento Valley, with the loss of many wagons and animals.  On receiving this letter, Major Rucker set out for Lawson's Ranche on Deer Creek, where he saw the emigrants comfortably established for the winter.  They had erected log-houses for shelter; the flour supplied to them from the Government stores and cattle from the large herds on the neighboring ranches, furnished them with the means of subsistence.  The return to Sacramento City, in the depth of the rainy season, was an almost impossible undertaking.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The greater part of those who came in by the lower routes,    started, after a season of rest, for the mining region, where many of them arrived in time to build themselves log huts for the winter.  Some pitched their tents along the river, to wait for the genial spring season; while not a few took their axes and commenced the business of wood-cutting in the timber on its banks.  When shipped to San Francisco, the wood, which they took with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>THE ITALY OF THE WEST</P>
123.sgm:<P>AT the end of a week of rain, during which we had a few deceptive  gleams of clear weather, I gave up all hope of getting to the Yuba and Feather Rivers, and took my passage in the steamer Senator, for San Francisco.  The time for leaving was before sunrise, and the loud ringing of the first bell awoke me as I lay on my Chinese quilt in Capt. Baker's store.  The weather had changed during the night, and when I went out of doors I found a keen, cloudless dawn, with the wind blowing down the river.  Had the three weeks of dry season, so confidently predicted by the old settlers, actually commenced?  I was not long in deliberating, though the remote chance of an opportunity for making my journey to the Shaste Peak, tempted me sorely; but the end proved that I decided aright, for on the second day after my arrival at San Francisco, the rains set in again worse than ever.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The steamer, which formerly ran between Boston and Eastport, was a strong, spacious and elegant boat.  Notwithstanding the fare to San Francisco was $30, she rarely carried less than two hundred passengers.  When I went on board, her decks were already filled, and people were hurrying down from all parts of the town, her bell tolling meanwhile with the quick, incessant stroke <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>After passing the town of Sutter, the bell rang for breakfast, and having previously procured a ticket for two dollars, I joined the anxious throng who were pressing down the cabin stairs.  The long tables were set below in the same style as at home; the fare was abundant and well prepared; even on the Hudson it would have given rise to few grumblings.  We steamed rapidly down the river, with Monte Diablo far before us.  Owing to the twists and turns of the stream, it was but an uncertain landmark, now appearing on one side and now on the other.  The cold snows of the Sierra Nevada were faintly seen in the eastern sky, but between the Sacramento and the mountains, the great plain stretched out in a sweep which to the north and south ran unbroken to the horizon.  The banks, stripped now of their summer foliage, would have been dreary and monotonous, but for the tents and log-houses of the settlers and wood-cutters.  I noticed in little spots where the thicket had been cleared away, patches of cabbages and other hardy vegetables, which seemed to have a thirfty growth.</P>
123.sgm:<P>We came at last to the entrance of the slough, the navigation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>a solitary house on a sort of headland projecting into Suisun Bay and fronting its rival three-house city, New-York-of-the-Pacific.  The bay was dancing to the fresh northern breeze as we skimmed its waters towards Benicia; Monte Diablo, on the other side, wore a blue mist over his scarred and rocky surface, which looked deceptively near.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The three weeks of rain which had fallen since I passed up the bay, had brought out a vivid green over all the hills.  Those along the water were no longer lifeless and barren, but covered with sprouting vegetation.  Benicia, as we approached it, appeared like a child's toy town set out on a piece of green velvet.  Contrasted with this gay color, the changeless hue of the evergreen oaks appeared sombre almost to blackness; seen in unison with a cloudless sky and the glittering blue of the bay, the effect of the fresh green was indescribably cheerful and inspiring.  We touched but a few minutes at Benicia, whose streets presented a quiet appearance, coming from the thronged avenues of Sacramento City.  The houses were mostly frame, of neat construction; a church with a small white spire, at the upper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Beyond these hills, at the distance of thirty-five miles, is  the pleasant little town of Sonoma, Gen. Vallejo's residence.  In  summer it is reached from Sacramento City by a trail of forty miles, but when the rains come on, the tule&acute; marshes running up from the bay between the river and the mountains, are flooded, and a circuit of more than a hundred miles must be made to get around them.  Two days' journey north of Sonoma is Lake Clear, a beautiful sheet of water, sixty miles in length, embosomed in the midst of grand mountain scenery.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Sunset came on as we approached the strait opening from Pablo Bay into the Bay of San Francisco.  The cloudless sky became gradually suffused with a soft rose-tint, which covered its whole surface, painting alike the glassy sheet of the bay, and glowing most vividly on the mountains to the eastward.  The color deepened every moment, and the peaks of the Coast Range burned with a rich vermilion light, like that of a live coal.  This faded gradually into as glowing a purple, and at last into a blue as intense as that of the sea at noonday.  The first effect of the light was most wonderful; the mountains stretched around the horizon like a belt of varying fire and amethyst between the two roseate deeps of air and water; the shores were transmuted into solid, the air into fluid gems.  Could the pencil faithfully represent this magnificent transfiguration of Nature, it would appear utterly unreal and impossible to eyes which never beheld the reality.  It was no transient spectacle, fading away ere one could feel its surpassing glory.  It lingered, and lingered, changing almost imperceptibly and with so beautiful a decay, that one lost himself in the enjoyment of each successive charm, without regret for those which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The approach to the city was very imposing in the dusk.  The crowd of shipping, two or three miles in length, stretched along the water in front; the triple crown of the hills behind was clearly marked against the sky, and from the broad space covered with sparkling lights, glimmerings of tents and white buildings, and the sounds of active life, I half believed that some metropolis of a century's growth lay before me.  On landing, notwithstanding I had only been absent three weeks, I had some difficulty in recognizing localities.  The change appeared greater than at any previous arrival, on account of the removal of a great many of the old buildings and the erection of larger and more substantial edifices in their stead.</P>
123.sgm:<P>After a few days of violent rain, the sky cleared and we had a week of the most delicious weather I ever experienced.  The temperature was at no time lower than 50&deg;, and in the middle of the day rose to 70&deg;.  When the floating gauze of mist had cleared off the water, the sky was without a cloud for the remainder of the day, and of a fresh, tender blue, which was in exquisite relief to the pale green of the hills.  To enjoy the delighful temperature and fine scenery of the Bay, I used frequently to climb a hill just in the rear of the town, whence the harbor, the strait into Pablo <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>In company with my friends, the Moores, I made many short excursions among the hills, during this charming season.  Our most frequent trip was to Fresh Pond, in the neighborhood of the old Presidio.  With a gray donkey--an invaluable beast, by the way--harnessed to a light cart, in which we had placed two or three empty barrels, we drove out to the place, a little basin shut in by the hills, and only divided by a narrow bushy ridge from the waters of the Golden Gate.  Several tents were pitched on its margin; the washmen and gardeners had established themselves there and were diligently plying their respective occupations.  A little strip of moist bottom adjoining the pond had been cleared of its thickets and was partly ploughed, showing a rich black loam.  The washerwomen, of whom there were a few, principally Mexicans and Indians, had established themselves on one side of the pond and the washmen on another.  The latter went into the business on a large scale, having their tents for ironing, their large kettles for boiling the clothes and their fluted wash-boards along the edge of the water.  It was an amusing sight to see a great, burly, long-bearded fellow, kneeling on the ground, with sleeves rolled up to the elbows, and rubbing a shirt on the board with such violence that the suds flew and the buttons, if there were any, must soon snap off.  Their clear-starching and ironing were still more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The sunsets we saw from the hills as we drove slowly back with the barrels filled, were all of the same gorgeous character.  The air had a purity and sweetness which made the long hour of twilight enchanting, and we frequently lingered on the road till after dark.  We helped our patient donkey up the hill by pushing behind his cart--an aid he seemed fully to appreciate, for he pulled at such times with much more spirit.  He had many curious ways about him, the most remarkable of which was his capacity for digestion.  Cloth, canvas and shavings seemed as much his natural food as hay or green grass.  Whenever he broke loose during the night, which was not seldom, it was generally followed in the morning by a visit from some emigrant, claiming damages for the amount of ten-covering which had been chewed up.  Once, indeed, a man who had indulged rather freely in bad brandy, at twenty-five cents a glass, wandered in the dark to the place where the donkey was tethered, lay down at his feet and fell asleep.  When he awoke in the morning, sobered by the coolness of his bed and foggy blankets, he found to his utter surprise and horror, that the ravenous beast had not only devoured his cap but cropped nearly all the hair from one side of his head!  As the man's hair happened to be glowing in color and coarse in texture, the mistake of the donkey in taking it to be swamp hay, is not so much to be wondered at.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The valley about the Mission Dolores was charmingly green and beautiful at this time.  Several of the former miners, in anticipation of the great influx of emigrants into the country and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>On our return to the city, we debated whether we should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, FOUR MONTHS LATER.</P>
123.sgm:<P>OF all the marvellous phases of the history of the Present, the growth of San Francisco is the one which will most tax the belief of the Future.  Its parallel was never known, and shall never be beheld again.  I speak only of what I saw with my own eyes.  When I landed there, a little more than four months before, I found a scattering town of tents and canvas houses, with a show of frame buildings on one or two streets, and a population of about six thousand.  Now, on my last visit, I saw around me an actual metropolis, displaying street after street of well-built edifices, filled with an active and enterprising people and exhibiting every mark of permanent commercial prosperity.  Then, the town was limited to the curve of the Bay fronting the anchorage and bottoms of the hills.  Now, it stretched to the topmost heights, followed the shore around point after point, and sending back a long arm through a gap in the hills, took hold of the Golden Gate and was building its warehouses on the open strait and almost fronting the blue horizon of the Pacific.  Then, the gold-seeking sojourner lodged in muslin rooms and canvas garrets, with a philosophic lack of furniture, and ate his simple though substantial fare from pine boards.  Now, lofty hotels, gaudy with verandas and balconies, were met with in all quarters, furnished with home luxury, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:and aristocratic restaurants presented daily their long bills of fare, rich with the choicest technicalities of the Parisian cuisine.  Then, vessels were coming in day after day, to lie deserted and useless at their anchorage.  Now scarce a day passed, but some cluster of sails, bound <HI REND="italics">outward</HI>
123.sgm:<P>When I first landed in California, bewildered and amazed by what seemed an unnatural standard of prices, I formed the opinion that there would be before long a great crash in speculation. Things, it appeared then, had reached the crisis, and it was pronounced impossible that they could remain stationary.  This might have been a very natural idea at the time, but the subsequent course of affairs proved it to be incorrect.  Lands, rents, goods and subsistence continued steadily to advance in cost, and as the credit system had been meanwhile prudently contracted, the character of the business done was the more real and substantial.  Two or three years will pass, in all probability, before there is a positive abatement of the standard of prices.  There will be fluctuations in the meantime, occasioning great gains and losses, but the fall in rents and real estate, when it comes, as it inevitably must in the course of two or three years, will not be so crushing as I at first imagined.  I doubt whether it will seriously injure the commercial activity of the place.  Prices will never fall to the same standard as in the Atlantic States.  Fortunes will always be made by the sober, intelligent, industrious, and energetic; but no one who is either too careless, too spiritless or too ignorant to succeed at home, need trouble himself about emigrating.  The same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Not only was the heaviest part of the business conducted on cash principles, but all rents, even to lodgings in hotels, were required to be paid in advance.  A single bowling-alley, in the basement story of the Ward House--a new hotel on Portsmouth- Square--prepaid $5,000 monthly.  The firm of Findley, Johnson &amp; Co. sold their real estate, purchased a year previous, for $20,000, at $300,000; $25,000 down, and the rest in monthly instalments of $12,500.  This was a fair specimen of the speculations daily made.  Those on a lesser scale were frequently of a very amusing character, but the claims on one's astonishment were so constant, that the faculty soon wore out, and the most unheardof operations were looked upon as matters of course.  Among others that came under my observation, was one of a gentleman who purchased a barrel of alum for $6, the price in New York being $9.  It happened to be the only alum in the place, and as there was a demand for it shortly afterwards, he sold the barrel for $150.  Another purchased all the candle-wick to be found, at an average price of 40 cts. per lb., and sold it in a short time at $2 25 per lb.  A friend of mine expended $10,000 in purchasing barley, which in a week brought $20,000.  The greatest gains were still made by the gambling tables and the eating-houses.  Every device that art could suggest was used to swell the custom of the former.  The latter found abundant support in the necessities of a large floating population, in addition to the swarm of permanent residents.</P>
123.sgm:<P>For a month or two previous to this time, money had been very scarce in the market, and from ten to fifteen per cent. monthly, was paid, with the addition of good security. Notwithstanding the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>There had been a vast improvement in the means of living since my previous visit to San Francisco.  Several large hotels had been opened, which were equal in almost every respect to houses of the second class in the Atlantic cities.  The Ward House, the Graham House, imported bodily from Baltimore, and the St. Francis Hotel, completely threw into the shade all former establishments.  The rooms were furnished with comfort and even luxury, and the tables lacked few of the essentials of good living, according to a `home' taste.  The sleeping apartments of the St. Francis were the best in California.  The cost of board and lodging was $150 per month--which was considered unusually cheap.  A room at the Ward House cost $250 monthly, without board.  The principal restaurants charged $35 a week for board, and there were lodging houses where a berth or "bunk"--one out of fifty in the same room--might be had for $6 a week <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The great want of San Francisco was society.  Think of a city of thirty thousand inhabitants, peopled by men alone!  The like of this was never seen before.  Every man was his own housekeeper, doing, in many instances, his own sweeping, cooking, washing and mending.  Many home-arts, learned rather by observation than experience, came conveniently into play.  He who cannot make a bed, cook a beefsteak, or sew up his own rips and rents, is unfit to be a citizen of California.  Nevertheless, since the town began to assume a permanent shape, very many of the comforts of life in the East were attainable.  A family may now live there without suffering any material privations; and if every married man, who intends spending some time in California, would take his family with him, a social influence would soon be created to which we might look for the happiest results.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Towards the close of my stay, the city was as dismal a place as could well be imagined.  The glimpse of bright, warm, serene weather passed away, leaving in its stead a raw, cheerless, southeast storm.  The wind now and then blew a heavy gale, and the cold, steady fall of rain, was varied by claps of thunder and sudden blasts of hail.  The mud in the streets became little short of fathomless, and it was with difficulty that the mules could drag their empty wagons through.  A powerful London dray-horse, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The severe weather occasioned a great deal of sickness, especially among those who led an exposed life.  The city overflowed with people, and notwithstanding buildings were continually growing up like mushrooms, over night, hundreds who arrived were obliged to lodge in tents, with which the summits of the hills were covered.  Fever-and-ague and dysentery were the prevailing complaints, the great prevalence of which was owing undoubtedly to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>In the midst of the rains, we were greeted one morning with a magnificent spectacle.  The wind had blown furiously during the night, with violent falls of rain, but the sun rose in a spotless sky, revealing the Coast Mountains across the bay wrapped in snow half-way down their sides.  For two days they wore their dazzling crown, which could be seen melting away hour by hour, from their ridges and cloven ravines.  This was the only snow I saw while in San Francisco; only once did I notice any appearance of frost.  The grass was green and vigorous, and some of the more hardy plants in blossom; vegetables, it is well known, flourish with equal luxuriance during the winter season.  At one of the restaurants, I was shown some remarkable specimens of the growth of California soil--potatoes, weighing from one to five pounds each; beets and turnips eight inches in diameter, and perfectly sweet and sound; and large, silver-skinned onions, whose delicate flavor the most inveterate enemy of this honest vegetable could not but have relished.  A gentleman who visited the port of Bodega, informed me that he saw in the garden of Capt. Smith, the owner of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>As the rains drove the deer and other animals down from the mountains, game of all kinds became abundant.  Fat elks and splendid black-tailed does hung at the doors of all the butcher-shops, and wild geese, duck and brant, were brought into the city by the wagon-load.  "Grizzly bear steak," became a choice dish at the eating-houses; I had the satisfaction one night of eating a slice of one that had weighed eleven hundred pounds.  The flesh was of a bright red color, very solid, sweet, and nutritious; its flavor was preferable to that of the best pork.  The large native hare, a specimen of which occasionally found its way to the restaurants, is nowise inferior to that of Europe.  As an illustration of the money which might be spent in procuring a meal no better than an ordinary hotel-dinner at home, I may mention that a dinner for fifteen persons, to which I was invited, at the "Excelsior," cost the giver of it $225.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The effect of a growing prosperity and some little taste of luxury was readily seen in the appearance of the business community of San Francisco.  The slouched felt hats gave way to narrow-brimmed black beavers; flannel shirts were laid aside, and white linen, though indifferently washed, appeared instead; dress and frock coats, of the fashion of the previous year in the Atlantic side, came forth from trunks and sea-chests; in short, a San Francisco merchant was almost as smooth and spruce in his outward appearance as a merchant anywhere else.  The hussar boot, however, was obliged to be worn, and a variation of the Mexican sombrero--a very convenient and becoming head-piece--came into fashion among the younger class.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The steamers which arrived at this time, brought large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>My preparations for leaving San Francisco, were made with the regret that I could not remain longer and see more of the wonderful growth of the Empire of the West.  Yet I was fortunate in witnessing the most peculiar and interesting stages of its progress, and I took my departure in the hope of returning at some future day to view the completion of these magnificent beginnings.  The world's history has no page so marvellous as that which has just been turned in California.</P>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>SOCIETY IN CALIFORNIA.</P>
123.sgm:<P>THERE are some features of Society in California, which I have hitherto failed to touch upon in my narrative, but which deserve a passing notice before I take my final leave of that wonderful land.  The direct effect of the state of things growing out of the discovery of the placers, was to develop new qualities and traits of character, not in single individuals, but in every individual of the entire community--traits frequently most unlooked-for in those who exhibited them in the most marked degree.  Society, therefore, was for the time cast into new forms, or, rather, deprived of any fixed form.  A man, on coming to California, could no more expect to retain his old nature unchanged, than he could retain in his lungs the air he had inhaled on the Atlantic shore.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The most immediate and striking change which came upon the greater portion of the emigrants was an increase of activity, and proportionately, of reckless and daring spirit.  It was curious to see how men hitherto noted for their prudence and caution took  sudden leave of those qualities, to all appearance, yet only prospered the more thereby.  Perhaps there was at bottom a vein of keen, shrewd calculation, which directed their seemingly heedless movements; certain it is, at least, that for a long time the rashest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The emigrants who arrive in California, very soon divide into two distinct classes.  About two-thirds, or possibly three-fourths of them are active, hopeful and industrious.  They feel this singular intoxication of society, and go to work at something, no matter what, by which they hope to thrive.  The remaining portion see everything "through a glass, darkly."  Their first bright anticipations are unrealized; the horrid winds of San Francisco during the dry season, chill and unnerve them or, if they go to the placers, the severe labor and the ill success of inexperienced hands, completes their disgust.  They commit a multitude of sins in the shape of curses upon every one who has written or spoken favorably of California.  Some of them return home without having seen the country at all, and others, even if they obtain profitable situations, labor without a will.  It is no place for a slow, an over-cautious, or a desponding man.  The emigrant should be willing to work, not only at one business, but many, if need be; the grumbler or the idler had far better stay at home.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It cannot be denied that the very activity of California society created a spirit of excitement which frequently led to dangerous excesses.  The habits of the emigrants, never, even at home, very slow and deliberate, branched into all kinds of wild offshoots, the necessary effect of the sudden glow and expansion which they experienced  Those who retained their health seemed to revel in an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The most common excesses into which the Californians run, are drinking and gambling.  I say drinking, rather than drunkenness, for I saw very little of the latter.  But a single case came under my observation while I was in the gold region.  The man's friends took away his money and deposited it in the hands of the Alcalde, then tied him to a tree where they left him till he became sober.  The practice of drinking, nevertheless, was widely prevalent, and its effects rendered more destructive by the large amount of bad liquor which was sent into the country.  Gambling, in spite of a universal public sentiment against it, grew and flourished; the disappointment and ruin of many emigrants were owing to its existence.  The gamblers themselves were in many instances men who had led orderly and respectable lives at home.  I have heard some of them frankly avow that nothing would induce them to acquaint their friends and families with the nature of their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>In spite, however, of all these dissipating and disorganizing influences, the main stock of society was sound, vigorous and progressive.  The rank shoots, while they might have slightly weakened the trunk, only showed the abundant life of the root.  In short, without wishing to be understood as apologizing in any degree for the evils which existed, it was evident that had the Californians been more cool, grave and deliberate in their temperament--had they lacked the fiery energy and impulsive spirit which pushed them irresistibly forward--the dangers which surrounded them at the outset would have been far more imminent.  Besides, this energy did not run at random; it was in the end directed by an enlightened experience, and that instinct of Right, which is the strength and security of a self-governed People.  Hundreds of instances might be adduced to show that the worst passions of our nature were speedily developed in the air of California, but the one grand lesson of the settlement and organization of the country is of a character that ennobles the race.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The unanimity with which all united in this work--the frankness with which the old prejudices of sect and party were disclaimed--the freshly-awakened pride of country, which made every citizen jealously and disinterestedly anxious that she should acquit herself honorably in the eyes of the Nation at large--formed a spectacle which must claim our entire admiration.  In view of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>After what has been said, it will appear natural that California should be the most democratic country in the world.  The practical equality of all the members of a community, whatever might be the wealth, intelligence or profession of each, was never before thoroughly demonstrated.  Dress was no guage of respectability, and no honest occupation, however menial in its character, affected a man's standing.  Lawyers, physicians and ex-professors dug cellars, drove ox-teams, sawed wood and carried luggage; while men who had been Army privates, sailors, cooks or day laborers were at the head of profitable establishments and not infrequently assisted in some of the minor details of Government.  A man who would consider his fellow beneath him, on account of his appearance or occupation, would have had some difficulty in living peaceably in California.  The security of the country is owing, in no small degree, to this plain, practical development of what the French reverence as an abstraction, under the name of <HI REND="italics">Fraternite&acute;</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I have dwelt with the more earnestness on these features of Society because they do not seem to be fully appreciated on this side of the Continent.  I cannot take leave, in the regular course of my narrative, of a land where I found so much in Nature to admire and enjoy, without attempting to give some general, though imperfect view of Man, as he appeared under those new and wonderful influences.</P>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>LEAVING SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
123.sgm:<P>THE rainy season, by rendering further travel very unsatisfactory and laborious, if not impossible, put an end to my wanderings in California, which, in fact, had already extended beyond the period I had originally fixed for my stay.  I was therefore anxious to set out on my homeward journey through Mexico, to which I looked forward with glowing anticipations.  Rather than wait for the steamer of Jan. 1st., I decided to take one of the sailing packets up for Mazatlan, as the trip down the coast is usually made in from ten to fifteen days.  The most promising chance was that of a Peruvian brigantine belonging to a German house, which I was assured would sail on the 15th of December.  A heavy gale coming up at the time put this out of the question.  I waited until the 17th, when I went on board, determined to set foot no more in San Franciscan mud.   The brigantine--which bore the name of Iquiquen&tilde;a, from the Peruvian port of Iquiqua--was a small, rakish craft, built at the Island of Chiloe&die; for a smuggler in the opium trade; having been afterwards purchased by a house in Callao, she still retained the Peruvian colors.</P>
123.sgm:<P>In her low, confined cabin, containing eight berths, which were reached by a dark and crooked well, opening on the deck near the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:rudder, seven passengers were crowded--Americans, Mexicans and Venezuelans--besides the captain, mate, supercargo and steward, who were Germans, as were likewise the greater part of the crew.  To complete the circle that met around our little table to discuss the invariable daily dinner of rice soup and boiled beef, I must not omit mentioning a Chinese dog, as eccentric in his behavior as the Celestials on shore.  The captain and crew did nothing to falsify the national reputation for tardiness and delay.  In our case the <HI REND="italics">poco tiempo</HI>
123.sgm:<P>While we thus lay in the harbor, just inside the Rincon, trying to bear with patience a delay so vexatious, one of the terrible south-east gales came on.  The wind gradually rose through the night, and its violence was heard and felt in the whistle of the rigging and the uneasy roll of our brigantine.  When morning dawned, the sky was as gray and cold as an arch of granite, except towards the south-east, where a streak of dun light seemed like the opening through which the whole fury of the blast was poured upon the bay.  The timbers of the shipping creaked as they were tossed about by the lashed and driven waters; the rigging hummed and roared till the ropes were ready to snap with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The sailors having been pacified, the supercargo taken on board, and the brig declared ready for sea, we were detained another day on account of the anchor sticking fast in the mud, and still another through lack of a favorable wind.  Finally, on the eighth day after going on board, the brig was warped through the crowded vessels, and took the first of the ebb tide, with a light breeze, to run out of the harbor.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I went on deck, in the misty daybreak, to take a parting look at the town and its amphitheatric hills.  As I turned my face shoreward, a little spark appeared through the fog.  Suddenly it shot up into a spiry flame, and at the same instant I heard the sound of gongs, bells and trumpets, and the shouting of human voices.  The calamity, predicted and dreaded so long in advance, that men ceased to think of it, had come at last--San Francisco was on fire!  The blaze increased with fearful rapidity.  In fifteen minutes, it had risen into a broad, flickering column, making all the shore, the misty air and the water ruddy as with another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>For more than hour, while we were tacking in the channel between Yerba Buena Island and the anchorage, there was no apparent check to the flames.  Before passing Fort Montgomery, however, we heard several explosions in quick succession, and conjectured that vigorous measures had been taken to prevent further destruction.  When at last, with a fair breeze and bright sky, we were dashing past the rock of Alcatraz, the red column had sunk away to a smouldering blaze, and nothing but a heavy canopy of smoke remained to tell the extent of the conflagration.  The Golden Gate was again before us, and I looked through its mountain-walls on the rolling Pacific, with full as pleasant an excitement as I had looked inwards, four months before, eager to catch the first glimpse of the new Eldorado.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The breeze freshened, the swell increased, and as the breakers of the entrance receded behind us, we entered the rough sea left by a recent gale.  In trying to haul close to the wind, the captain discovered that the rudder was broken.  Immediately aftewards, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I hastened immediately to Portsmouth Square, the scene of the conflagration.  All its eastern front, with the exception of the Delmonico Restaurant at the corner of Clay-st. was gone, together with the entire side of the block, on Washington-st.  The Eldorado, Parker House, Denison's Exchange and the United States <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding there was no air stirring at the time, the progress of the fire, as described by those who were on the spot, had something terrific in its character.  The canvas partitions of rooms shrivelled away like paper in the breath of the flames, and the dry, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>A very few persons, out of the thousands present, did the work of arresting the flames.  At the time of the most extreme danger, hundreds of idle spectators refused to lend a hand, unless they were paid enormous wages.  One of the principal merchants, I was told, offered a dollar a bucket for water, and made use of several thousand buckets in saving his property.  All the owners of property worked incessantly, and were aided by their friends, but at least five thousand spectators stood idle in the plaza.  I hope their selfish indifference is not a necessary offshoot of society here.  It is not to be disputed, however, that constant familiarity with the shifting of Fortune between her farthest extremes, blunts very much the sympathies of the popular heart.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The German house of whom I had obtained a passage for Mazatlan, was burned out, but the supercargo soon discovered its whereabouts.  A committee of sea-captains, appointed to examine the brigantine, reported that she could be made ready for sea in three or four days.  Under these circumstances, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The steamer was to sail on the first of January, at daybreak.  After coming upon my friends like an apparition--they having supposed me to be far out at sea--I spent two days on shore, housed up from rain and mud, and finally took a boat for the steamer on the last evening of the year 1849.  It was during the prevalence of the spring-tides, and no boat could be had to go from the Long Wharf to the anchorage off the Rincon, for less than $4.  I had two oarsmen for myself and blankets; it was near the middle of the ebb-tide, and we ran inside the shelter of the point till we were abreast of the steamer.  She was now about three-quarters of a mile distant, but a foaming, raging flood was between us.  Several large boats, manned by four and six oarsmen were struggling in the midst of the current, and borne away in spite of themselves.  One of my men was discouraged, and wanted to turn back, but there was a majority against him.  I took good hold of the tiller-ropes, the men stripped to their flannel shirts, planted their feet firmly against the ribs of the boat, and we dashed into the teeth of the tide.  We were thrown and tossed about like a toy; the spray flew over us, and the strongest efforts of the men did not seem to move us an inch. </P>
123.sgm:<P>After half <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I unrolled my blankets and put in a pree&die;mption claim for one end of the cabin-table.  Several other berthless persons occupied the benches on either hand and the iron grating below, which printed their sides like a checker-board; and so we passed the night.  The last boat-loads came out in the morning; the parting gun echoed back from the Island of Yerba Buena; the paddles moved; San Francisco slid away from us, and the Golden Gate opened again; the swells of the Pacific rolled forward to meet us; the coast wheeled around and fronted our larboard side; rain and fog were behind us, and a speck of clear blue far ahead--and so we sped southward, to the tropics, and homeward!</P>
123.sgm:<P>The Oregon's freight, both of gold and passengers, was the most important which had ever left San Francisco.  Of the former, we had about two millions of dollars on board; of the latter, the Congressmen and Senators elect, Col. Fre&acute;mont, Dr. Gwin, Gilbert and Wright, together with a score of the prominent merchants and moneyed men of San Francisco, and several officers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>We touched at Santa Barbara on the third morning out.  The night had been foggy, and we ran astray in the channel between the Island of Santa Rosa and the mainland, making the coast about twenty-five miles south of the town.  I did not regret this, as it gave me an opportunity of seeing the point where the Coast Mountains come down to the sea, forming a narrow pass, which can only be traveled at low tide, between the precipice and the surf.  It is generally known as the Rincon, or Corner--a common Spanish term for the jutting end of a mountain; in a Californian ballad (written before seeing the country,) I had made it the scene of an imaginary incident,giving the name of <HI REND="italics">Paso del Mar</HI>
123.sgm: --the Pass of the Sea--to the spot.  I was delighted to find so near a correspondence between its crags of black rock, its breakers and reaches of spray-wet sand, and the previous picture in my imagination.  The village of Santa Barbara is charmingly situated, on a warm slope above the roadstead, down to which stretch its fields of wheat and barley.  Behind it, on a shelf of the mountain, stands the Mission, or Episcopal Residence of Santa Barbara, its white arched corridors and tall square towers brightly relieved against the pine forests in the distance.  Above and beyond all, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>We lay-to in the road for several hours, shipping supplies. The shore was so near that we could watch the vaqueros, as they galloped among the herds and flung their lariats over the horns of the doomed beeves.  An immense whale lay stranded on the beach like the hull of some unlucky vessel.  As we steamed down the coast, in the afternoon, we had a magnificent view of the snowy range which divides the rich vine-land of Los Angeles from the Tulare Plains.  At daybreak the next morning we were in the harbor of San Diego, which was little changed since my visit in August; the hills were somewhat greener, and there were a few more tents pitched around the hide-houses.  Thence away and down the rugged Peninsula--past the Bay of Sebastian Viscaino, the headland of San Lorenzo and the white deserts of sand that stretch far inland--around the jagged pyramids and hollow caverns of Cape San Lucas--beyond the dioramic glimpse of San Jose&acute;, and into the mouth of the Californian Gulf, where we were struck aback by a norther that strained our vessel's sinews and troubled the stomachs of her passengers.  The next morning we groped about in the fog, hearing a breaker here and seeing a rock there, but the captain at last hit upon the right clue and ran us out of the maze into a gush of dazzling sunshine and tropic heat, which lay upon the islands and palmy shores of Mazatlan Harbor.</P>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>MAZATLAN.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I TOOK leave of my friends and mess-mates, receiving many gloomy predictions and warnings of danger from the most of them, and went ashore with the captain, in the ship's boat.  The water is very shallow, from within a mile of the landing, and abounds with rocks which rise nearly to the surface.  Two of these are called The Turtles, from an incident which is told at the expense of an officer of the British Navy.  He had just reached Mazatlan, and on his first visit to the shore, knowing that the waters contained turtle, had provided himself with rope and harpoon, and took his station in the bow of the boat.  The men rowed for some time without interruption, but suddenly, at a whisper from the officer, backed their oars and awaited the throw.  The harpoon was swung quickly to give it impetus; the water flew as it descended; "hit!" shouted the officer.  And it <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
123.sgm:<P>We landed on the beach, where we were instantly surrounded with the peons of the Custom House, in white shirts and pantaloons.  The baggage was carried under the portico of an adobe house opposite the landing, where it was watched by one of the officials.  Mr. Mott, of Mazatlan, who came passenger in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:Oregon, was well-known to all the authorities of the place, and I found, after losing much time in getting a permit to have my luggage passed, that it had all been sent to his house without examination.  My next care was to find a lodging-place.  There was the <HI REND="italics">me&acute;son</HI>
123.sgm:, a sort of native caravanserai; the <HI REND="italics">Ballo de Oro</HI>
123.sgm:, (Golden Ball,) a tavern after the Mexican fashion, which is comfortless enough; and finally the <HI REND="italics">Fonda de Canton</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The place was overrun by our passengers, who nearly exhausted the supplies of eggs, milk and vegetables in the market.  The Fonda de Canton was thronged; all the rooms were filled with tables, and gay groups, like children enjoying a holiday, were clustered in the palm-shaded court-yard.  Chin-Ling could not half perform the commands; he was called from every side and scolded by everybody, but nothing could relax the gravity of his queer yellow face.  The sun was intensely hot until near evening, and I made myself quite feverish by running after luggage, permits and passports.  I was not sorry when the gun of the steamer, at dusk, signalized her departure, and I was left to the company and hospitalities of my friend Lue&die;n-Sing.  After the monte players had closed their bank in one of the rooms and the customers had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I took a ramble about the city in the clear coolness of the morning.  Its situation is very peculiar and beautiful.  Built at the foot of a bold hill, it stands on the neck of a rocky, volcanic headland, fronting the sea on each side, so that part of the city looks up the Californian Gulf and part down the coast towards San Blas.  The houses are stone, of a white, pink or cream-color, with heavy arched entrances and cool court-yards within.  The contrast of their clear, bright fronts, with the feathery tops of the cocoa-palm, seen under a dazzling sky, gives the city a rich oriental character, reminding me of descriptions of Smyrna.  The houses are mostly a single story in height, but in the principal street there are several magnificent buildings of two stories, with massive cornices and large balconied windows.  The streets are clean and cheerful, and the principal shops are as large, showy and tastefully arranged as those of Paris or New York.  At night, especially, when they are brilliantly lighted and all the doors and windows are opened, displaying the gaudy shawls, scarfs and sarapes within; when the  whole population is out to enjoy the pleasant air, the men in their white shirts and the women in their bewitching rebosas; when some native band is playing, just far enough distant to drown the discordance; when the paper lanters of the fruit-venders gleam at every corner, and the aristocratic sen&tilde;oritas smoke their paper cigars in the balconies above--Mazatlan is decidedly the gayest and liveliest little city on the Continent.</P>
123.sgm:<P>But I was speaking of my morning stroll.  The sun was already shining hotly in the streets, and the mellow roar of the surf on the northern side of the promontory tempted my steps in that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I saw an interesting picture one evening, in front of the Theatre.   A large band was stationed near the door, where they performed waltzes and polkas in excellent style--an idea no doubt derived from "Scudder's Balcony" or the gambling-hells of San Francisco.  It had the effect, at least, to draw a dense crowd of the lower orders to the place, and increase the business of the traders in fruits and drinks.  A military band, of trumpets alone, marched <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:up and down the principal street, blowing long blasts of piercing sound that affected one like the shock of an electro-galvanic battery.  Soldiers were grouped around the door of the Theatre, with stacked arms, and the tables of dealers in fruit and provisions were ranged along the walls.  Over their braziers of charcoal simmered the pans of <HI REND="italics">manteca</HI>
123.sgm:, (lard,) near which stood piles of tortillas and dishes of fowl mixed with <HI REND="italics">chili colorado</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The market-place presents a most picturesque appearance, whether by day or night.  It is a small square, on the steep side of the hill, reached by narrow alleys, in which are to be found all the articles most in demand by the lower classes--earthenware after the old Aztec fashion, flaming calicoes, sarapes, rebosas and broad Guayaquil sombreros.  The place is filled with square, umbrella-like stands or canopies of palm-leaves, under which are spread on the ground all kinds of vegetables, fruit and grain that grow in the vicinity, to be had at low prices.  Among the fruits I noticed a plump green berry, with a taste like a strawberry and gooseberry combined; they were called by the natives, <HI REND="italics">arellanes</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The proximity of California had increased in a striking manner the growth and activity of Mazatlan.  Houses were going up in all parts of the towns, and the prices of articles in the shops were little below the San Francisco standard.  At a tailoring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:establishment I was asked $20 for a pair of Mexican calzoneros, and $25 for a cloth traveling jacket--sums entirely above my reach.  I purchased a good Panama hat for $5, and retaining my suit of corduroy and shirt of blue flannel, set about hunting for a mule.  There were about fifty emigrants in the place, who had come in a few days previous, from Durango; but their animals had all been disposed of to the Mexican traders, at very low prices.  I was directed to the <HI REND="italics">me&acute;son</HI>
123.sgm:, where I found a number for sale, in the corral.  The owners offered to sell me a <HI REND="italics">caballo sillado</HI>
123.sgm: (a saddled and bridled horse) for $100, or a tolerable mule for $80, but seemed to think I would prefer a <HI REND="italics">frisone</HI>
123.sgm:<P>It now remained to have my passport arranged, for which the signature of the President of the City Council was requisite. After a great deal of search, I found the proper place, where a sort of Alcalde, who was settling a dispute between two Indians, wrote a <HI REND="italics">visto</HI>
123.sgm:, and directed me to call on the President, Don Luis Abioli.  This second visit cost me several hours, but at last I succeeded in discovering Don Luis, who was busily engaged behind the counter of his grocery store, in a little building near the market-place.  He stopped weighing sugar to affix his signature to the passport, received my " <HI REND="italics">mil gracias</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The emigrants expressed great astonishment at my fool-hardiness, as they termed it, in undertaking the journey through to Vera Cruz.  These men, some of whom had come overland from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:Chihuahua and some from Matamoras, insisted most strenuously that I should not start alone.  The Mexicans, they said, were robbers, to a man; one's life, even, was not safe among them, and their bitter hostility to Americans would subject me to continual insult.  "Would you believe it?" said a tall, raw-boned Yankee; "they actually <HI REND="italics">rocked</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Lue&die;n-Sing, who had traveled over the road once, as far as Tepic, told me I should find it toilsome but safe.  The Celestials  assisted me in packing my scanty luggage behind the saddle, and enjoined on me the promise of patronizing the <HI REND="italics">Fonda de Canton</HI>
123.sgm:, when I returned to Mazatlan.  I took my final cup of chocolate on the old table in the corridor, had a last talk with Chin-Ling about the gold-diggings, shook hands with the whole yellow-faced, long-eyed crew, mounted my mule and started up the main street, in the breathless heat of a noonday sun.  I doubled the corner of the hill, passing the <HI REND="italics">Plaza de Toros</HI>
123.sgm:, (an arena for bull-fights,) and the scattering huts of the suburbs, till I reached the <HI REND="italics">garita</HI>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>TRAVEL IN THE TIERRA CALIENTE.</P>
123.sgm:<P>IT was a cloudless noon.  The sun burned down on the sand and quivering sea, and the three islands in the Gulf seemed vitrifying in the blue heat of the air.  Riding slowly down to the arid level of a dried-up marsh, over which my path lay, I met an arriero, ofwhom I asked the distance to the Presidio.  " <HI REND="italics">No llega hoy</HI>
123.sgm:," said he; " <HI REND="italics">la mula no anda nada; es muy flojo</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The foliage of a tropical winter, on this coast, is not very attractive.  There is a season when the growth is suspended--when the bud closes, the leaf falls and the bough gathers sap for a long time of splendid bloom.  Only the glossy green of the lemon, mango and sycamore remains; the rest of the wood takes a grayish cast from its many half-clothed boughs, among which rise the strange, gloomy pillars of the <HI REND="italics">cereus giganteus</HI>
123.sgm:, often more than forty feet in height.  After making the circuit of a spacious bay, I came to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I was toiling along in the heat, torturing my conscience as much as the mule's flanks, when a couple of rancheros, riding behind me, came up with a good-humored greeting and proposed joining company.  The foremost, a merry old native, of mixed blood, commenced using his whip on my mule's back and I soon found that the latter could keep up a sharp trot for an hour, without trouble.  Thanks to my self-constituted <HI REND="italics">mozo</HI>
123.sgm:, I reached the banks of the Rio Mazatlan, opposite the Presidio, two hours before sunset.  The old man invited me to pass the night at his ranche, which was near to hand, and I willingly complied.  He turned his own beast loose, and started to a neighboring ranche, for an armful of <HI REND="italics">oja</HI>
123.sgm: (the fodder of maize) for my mule.  Meanwhile, I walked down to the river, to refresh myself with a bath.  The beauty of the scene kept me from the water for a long time.  On the opposite bank the old walls of the Presidio towered above the trees; the valley, stretching away to the eastward, to a far-off line of mountains, out of a notch in which the river found its way, was spotted with plantations of maize, bananas and melons.  The rancheros were out at work, ploughing and sowing their grain.  The fervor of the day was over, and a warm, tempered light was poured over the landscape.  As I lay, clasped in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>My mule was fed and the old man gave me a dish of frijoles, with three tortillas in lieu of knife and fork.  Then we sat down in the delicious twilight, amid the beautiful repose of Nature, and I answered, as well as I could, the questions prompted by their simple curiosity.  I told them about my country and its climate, aad the long journey I must yet make to reach it, which they heard with evident interest and wonder.  They were anxious to know how a steamboat could move against the wind, for they had been told this was the case, by their friends in Mazatlan.  The nearest idea of it which I could give them, was by describing it as a <HI REND="italics">sea-cart</HI>
123.sgm:, with broad wheels rolling on the water.  At last the twilight deepened into night, and I unrolled my blankets to make my bed.  "You must sleep to-night <HI REND="italics">en el sere&acute;no</HI>
123.sgm:," said the old man; and a beautiful, star-lit <HI REND="italics">Sere&acute;no</HI>
123.sgm: it was.  "Ah," said his wife, "what fine blankets! you will sleep better than the Archbishop!"  They then went to their hammocks in the hut, and I lay down on the earth, thanking God that the dismal forebodings which accompanied me out of Mazatlan had been so happily falsified. My kind host asked nothing in payment, when I saddled in the morning, but I insisted on giving him a trifle.  " <HI REND="italics">Vaya con Dios</HI>
123.sgm:!" said he, as we shook hands, "and if you go to California, bring me a little piece of gold when you come back."  I forded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:the river and passed through old Mazatlan--a miserable village of huts with a massive presidio and church in ruins.  The morning was fresh and cool, and the road lay in shade for several miles.  My mule, having no whip behind him, was as lazy as ever and made me the subject of remark from all the natives who passed.  A ranchero, carrying an escopette and three live turkeys slung to the saddle, before him, offered his horse in exchange.  I refused to trade, but an hour later, met an arriero, with a train of horses, laden with <HI REND="italics">oja</HI>
123.sgm:.  He made the same proposition and unloaded the mountainous stack under which one of his horses was buried, that I might try him.  " <HI REND="italics">Es muy caminador</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Towards noon I reached a little village called Santa Fe, where I got a breakfast of frijoles and chopped sausage, mixed with red-pepper--a dish called <HI REND="italics">chorisa</HI>
123.sgm: --for a real.  The country I passed was hilly and barren, with a range of broken mountains between me and the sea.  Crossing a ridge beyond Santa Fe, I came upon extensive fields of aloes, cultivated for the vinous drink called <HI REND="italics">mescal</HI>
123.sgm:, which is made of their juice.  In the midst of them stood the adobe town of Agua Caliente--a neat though scattering place, with a spacious church.  I journeyed on for leagues in the burning sun, over scorched hills, without water or refreshing verdure.  My <HI REND="italics">caminador</HI>
123.sgm:, too, lost the little spirit he had displayed, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>My old native friend on the Rio Mazatlan told me I could stop wherever I chose, on the road; no ranchero would refuse to receive me.  I accordingly rode up to the first house, and inquired; "Can I stay here to-night?"  " <HI REND="italics">Si Sen&tilde;or</HI>
123.sgm:," was the ready answer.  The place was small, and the people appeared impoverished, so I asked whether there was a <HI REND="italics">posada</HI>
123.sgm: in the place.  "Go to Don Ipolito," said the man; "that is where the <HI REND="italics">estranjeros</HI>
123.sgm: stay,"  Don Ipolito was a Frenchman, who had an adobe hut and corral for mules, in the centre of the village.  He was about starting for Mazatlan, but gave directions to the women and <HI REND="italics">mozos</HI>
123.sgm: to furnish me with supper, and my horse with corn and <HI REND="italics">oja</HI>
123.sgm:.  His instructions were promptly obeyed; I had a table set with chorisa and frijoles, under the thatched portico; then a cup of black coffee and a <HI REND="italics">puro</HI>
123.sgm:, which I enjoyed together, while trying to comprehend the talk of a very pretty girl of fifteen and a handsome young ranchero, evidently her lover, who sat near me on a low adobe wall.  They were speaking of marriage--that I found at once; but another ranchero--perhaps a rival suitor--named Pio, formed their principal topic.  " <HI REND="italics">Es sin vergue&die;nza, Pio</HI>
123.sgm:<P>My bed-time was not long in coming.  A boy was sent into the loft of the hut for a frame made of woven cane, which was placed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:on the portico, and covered with a coarse matting.  I threw my blankets on it, using my coat for a pillow, and was sound asleep in five minutes.  Half an hour might have elapsed, when I was suddenly aroused by a sound like the scream of a hundred fiends.  The frame on which I lay was rocked to and fro, and came near overturning; I sprang up in alarm, finding my bed in the midst of a black, moving mass, from which came the horrid sound.  It proved to be a legion of hogs, who had scented out a few grains of corn in a basket which had held my horse's feed, and was placed under the bed.  The door of the hut opened, and the hostess appeared with a lamp.  At sight of her, the beasts gave a hasty grunt, cleared the wall at one bound, and disappeared.  " <HI REND="italics">Santa Maria</HI>
123.sgm:!" shrieked the woman; " <HI REND="italics">son demonios--son hijos del diablo</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I arose in the morning, fed my horse, saddled, and was off by sunrise.  The town of El Rosario was but four leagues distant, and the road was full of young rancheros in their holiday dresses, riding thither to mass.  Three of them joined company with me, and tried to sell me one of their horses.  "You'll never reach Tepic with that horse," said they, "look at ours!" and away they would gallop for a hundred yards, stopping with one bound, to wait for my slow-paced <HI REND="italics">caminador</HI>
123.sgm:.  They drew out their tobacco and tinder-boxes, as we rode along; one of them, a spruce young fellow, with a green silk sash around his waist, rolled his <HI REND="italics">cigarito</HI>
123.sgm: in corn-husk, smoked about one-third of it and presented me with the remainder, that I might see how much better it tasted than paper.  The flavor was indeed mild and delightful; I puffed away an inch of it, and then returned him the stump.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:naked boy, basking in the sun at the door of a hut, called out " <HI REND="italics">Yanki</HI>
123.sgm:<P>El Rosario is built on a beautiful site, in a broad valley, surrounded by blue and jagged peaks.  It has several streets of spacious stone houses, for the most part ruined, and a church with a fine stone tower a hundred and fifty feet in height.  I had to cross the plaza, which was filled with the rancheros of the neighborhood, waiting for the hour of mass; my caminador was the subject of general notice, and I was truly rejoiced when I had hidden his raw bones from sight in the court-yard of a <HI REND="italics">fonda</HI>
123.sgm:.  The house was kept by a good-natured old lady, and three large parrots, who, (the parrots) sat each on a different perch, continually repeating: " <HI REND="italics">chiquito perriquito, bonito, blanquito</HI>
123.sgm:!"--the only phrase I ever heard a Mexican parrot utter, and which may be thus translated: "very little, pretty little, white-little parrotling!"  I ate my breakfast of beans and red-peppers, chatting the while with the old lady, who was loud in her praises of Tepic, whither I told her I was bound.  " <HI REND="italics">Es mi pais</HI>
123.sgm:," said she, " <HI REND="italics">es un pais precioso</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Crossing the river of Rosario, I took a path embowered in green thickets, through which glided multitudes of macaws and tufted birds of gay plumage.  At noon I came into a lovely valley among the mountains, and followed a stream shaded by splendid sycamores and palms.  Little patches of meadow land slept like still lakes among the woods, with thatched ranches spotting their shores.  I rode up to one of these for a drink of water, which an old man brought me in a calabash, standing bare-headed till I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the unsurpassed fertility of soil and genial character of climate, this region is very scantily settled, except in the broad river-bottoms opening towards the sea.  There, under the influence of a perpetual summer, the native race becomes indolent and careless of the future.  Nature does everything for them; a small patch of soil will produce enough maize and bananas for a family, with which, and the eternal frijoles, they have abundance for life's wants.  The saplings of the woods furnish them with posts, rafters and ridge-poles, the palm and the cane with thatch and bedding.  They are exempt from all trouble as to their subsistence; the blue ramparts of the Sierra Madre on one side, and the silver streak of the sea on the other, enclose their world.  They grow up lithe and agile in the free air, mate, wax old and die, making never a step out of the blind though contented round which their fathers walked before them.  I do not believe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>My resting-place the third night was the village of Escuinapa, where I found a <HI REND="italics">me&acute;son</HI>
123.sgm:, kept, or at least managed by a lady whose kindness and cheerfulness were exactly in proportion to her size; that is, they were about as broad as they were long.  She was a fast friend of the Americans, and spoke with rapture of the promptness with which all the emigrants whom she had entertained, had paid their bills.  Her own countrymen, she said, were slippery customers; they frequently ran off without paying a <HI REND="italics">claco</HI>
123.sgm:.  She talked of going to California; she thought if she were to establish a <HI REND="italics">me&acute;son</HI>
123.sgm: in the diggings, all the emigrants who had passed through Escuinapa would patronize her.  "They are all good people," said she; "I like them as well as if they were my brothers, and I am sure they would come to visit me."  An old man, who seemed to be her husband, sat swinging in the hammock, lifting his feet high enough that his blue velvet calzoneros should not be soiled on the floor.  I had an excellent dinner of eggs, fish and chocolate, finishing with a delicate <HI REND="italics">cigarito</HI>
123.sgm: which the corpulent hostess prepared for me.  Two or three Mexican travelers arrived for the night and took possession of the cane bed-frame and benches in the room, leaving me only the cold adobe floor.  "Will you take out your saddle and bridle?" requested the old lady; " <HI REND="italics">los sen&tilde;ores</HI>
123.sgm: are going to sleep here."  "But where am I to sleep?" I asked. " <HI REND="italics">Con migo</HI>
123.sgm:!" was the immediate answer.  " <HI REND="italics">Como</HI>
123.sgm:?" said I, surprised and alarmed; I was horror-struck and must have looked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Leaving Escuinapa, a day's journey of fifty miles lay before me, through an uninhabited country.  I doubted the powers of my <HI REND="italics">caminador</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I jogged steadily onward from sunrise till blazing noon, when, having accomplished about half the journey, I stopped under a palm-tree and let my horse crop a little grass, while I refreshed myself with the pine-apple.  Not far off there was a single ranche, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Making the circuit of the bay, the road finally doubled the last mountain-cape, and plunged into dark green thickets, fragrant with blossoms.  I pushed on hour after hour, the pace of my caminador gradually becoming slower, and sunset approached without any sign of "Bayona's hold."  Two Indians, mounted on small horses, came down by a winding trail from the hills, and rode a little in advance of me.  " <HI REND="italics">No tiene uste miedo de viajar solo</HI>
123.sgm:?"  (Are you not afraid to travel alone?) said one of them.  "What should I be afraid of?" I asked in return.  "The robbers."  "I should like to see them;" I said.  " <HI REND="italics">Tiene mucho valor</HI>
123.sgm:," remarked one to the other.  They then spoke of my tired horse, and looked admiringly at my blankets, asking me first to make a gift of them, then to sell them, and, finally, to let them carry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The sun went down; the twilight faded, and the column of the zodiacal light shortened to the horizon, as I walked behind my caminador, looking for La Bayona.  At last I came to a river, with two or three ranches on its banks; in front of them was a large fire, with several men standing about it.  One of them offered to accompany me to the town, which was near.  On the way, he expatiated on the great number of rabbits in the neighborhood, and lamented that he had no powder to shoot them, winding up with: "Perhaps, Sen&tilde;or, you might give me a little; you can easily buy more when you reach Acaponeta."  I poured out half the contents of my flask into a corner of his shirt, which he held up to receive it; he then pointed out the fording-place, and I crossed to La Bayona, where my poor horse had rest and good feed after his hard day's journey.  There was a dirty little <HI REND="italics">meson</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The landlord and one of his friends talked with me a long while about the United States.  "Tell me," said the latter, "is it true what Don Carlos, an American that was here last spring, told me--that there is a machine in your country in which you look at the moon, and it seems to be twenty feet long?"  I assured him it was perfectly true, for I had often seen the moon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:in it.  "Is it also true," he continued, "that in the United States a man pays only one dollar a year, and sends all his children to school for nothing?--and, then, when they have gone twelve years to school, they are fit for any business?  Ah, how grand that is! how much better than here!  Now, I do not know how to read at all.  Why is it that everything is so fortunate in the United States?"  "Because," said the other, "it is a nation <HI REND="italics">muy poderosa</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The next morning I rode to Acaponeta, four leagues distant, by a pleasant road over low hills.  The scenery was highly picturesque; the town lies in the lap of a wide valley, nearly encircled by mountains which rise one above another, the farthest still the highest, like the seats in an amphitheatre.  Their sides are cloven by tremendous chasms and ravines, whose gloom is concealed by perpetual verdure, but the walls of white rock, dropping sheer down many hundreds of feet from the summit, stand out distinctly in the vaporless atmosphere.  Except the church and a few low adobe buildings around the plaza, Acaponeta is formed entirely of cane huts.  I stopped at the <HI REND="italics">Meson del Angel</HI>
123.sgm:, gave a basket of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:corn to my horse, and ordered eggs, beefsteak, and chocolate for breakfast.  The <HI REND="italics">cocinera</HI>
123.sgm: and her daughter were two hours in preparing it, and meanwhile I sat in the shade of an orange tree, beside a cool well in the court-yard.  The women were very talkative, and amused themselves greatly with my bad Spanish.  The daughter was preparing a quantity of empty egg-shells for the Carnival, by filling them with finely-minced paper of different colors and sealing the ends again.  In order to show me how these were used, they bade me take off my hat.  Each then took an egg and approached me, saying, " <HI REND="italics">tu es mi bien amorado</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I crossed another large river at Acaponeta, and went on through embowered paths,</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Under a shade perpetual, which never<LB>Ray of the sun let in, nor moon.</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Gay parrots and macaws glanced in and out amid the cool green shawdows; lovely vistas opened between the boughs into the faery heart of the wilderness; the trees were laced each to each, by vines each more luxuriant than themselves; subtile odors pervaded the air, and large, yellow, bell-shaped flowers swung on their long stems like cups of gold, tremulous in the chance rays of sunshine.  Here and there, along the ledges of the mural mountains on my left, I noted the smoke of Indian camp-fires, which, as night approached, sparkled like beacons.  I intended to have stopped at a ranche called San Miguel, but passed it unknowingly, and night found me on the road.  A friendly ranchero pointed out to me a path which led to a hut, but I soon lost it, and wandered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I was at once given permission to stay, and the women went to work on the tortillas for my supper.  I swung off my fatigue in a hammock, and supped by starlight on the food of the Aztecs--the everlasting tortilla, which is a most nourishing and palatable cake when eaten fresh from the hot stone on which it is baked.  There were several dogs about the ranche, and the biggest of them showed a relentless hostility towards me.  "El Chucho don't like you," said the ranchero; "he'll bite if he can get hold of you; you had better climb up there and sleep," and he pointed to a sort of cane platform used for drying fruit, and raised on poles about twelve feet from the ground.  I took my blankets, climbed up to the frail couch, and lay down under the stars, with Taurus at the zenith.  El Chucho took his station below; as often as I turned on my airy bed during the night, the vile beast set up his howl and all the dog-herd howled in concert.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The next day I breakfasted at the hacienda of Buena Vista and rode about six leagues further, to the town of Rosa Morada.  (The Violet Rose.)  Just before reaching the place I caught sight of a mountain very far to the south, and recognized its outline as that of the <HI REND="italics">Silla de San Juan</HI>
123.sgm: (Saddle of St. John,) which rises behind the roadstead of San Blas.  This was a welcome sight, for it marked the first step of my ascent to the Table-Land.  I was growing tired of the Tierra Caliente; my face was blistered with the heat, and my skin so punctured by musquitos, fleas, sand-flies and venomous bugs that I resembled a patient in the last stage of small-pox.  There was no <HI REND="italics">me&acute;son</HI>
123.sgm: in Rosa Morada, but a miserable <HI REND="italics">posada</HI>
123.sgm:, where I found three Frenchmen, two of whom <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I was off at daylight, riding over an elevated plain towards the Rio Santiago.  Two arrieros, on their way to Tepic, shared their tortillas with me and proposed we should join company.  They stopped two hours to noon, however, and I left them.  Urging forward my despairing horse, I crossed one branch of the river at San Pedro and reached Santiago, on the main branch, an hour before sunset.  In descending to the Rio Santiago--or, more properly, the Rio Tololotlan, its ancient Aztec apellation--I came upon plantations of bananas and plantains, heavy with ripening fruit.  The country showed signs of wealth and culture; the houses were large and well built and the fields divided by strong fences of palm logs.  All up and down the broad banks of the river were scattered arrieros, mules and rows of pack-saddles, while half a dozen large canoes were plying backwards and forwards with their loads.  I got into the first vacant one with my saddle, bridle and blankets, taking a turn of the lariat round my horse's nose.  An arriero who had passed me the day previous, with a horse as worn-out as my own, was the other passenger.  The river is about sixty yards wide, and very deep and swift.  Our horses swam bravely behind us, and I believe were much the better for the bath.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I took and instant liking to the arriero for two reasons: firstly, he had a dark, melancholy, intellectual eye; secondly, he was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:only traveler I saw on the road, whose horse was so woeful an animal as mine.  We started in company, and soon grew strongly attached.  At dusk, we reached a village called Las Verritas.  The inhabitants were all gone to Tepic, except and old man and a little boy who were selling <HI REND="italics">oja</HI>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>THE ASCENT TO THE TABLE-LAND.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I WAS lying upon my back, with my handkerchief over my face, trying to imagine that I was asleep, when the welcome voice of the arriero shouted in my ear: "Ho!  <HI REND="italics">Placero</HI>
123.sgm:! up and saddle!--the morning is coming and we must reach Tepic to-day."  We fed our horses and sat on the ground for an hour before the first streak of dawn appeared.  Three or four leagues of travel through a rich meadow-land brought us to the foot of the first ascent to the table-land.  Our horses were fast failing, and we got off to walk up the stony trail.  "I think we had better keep very close together," said my friend; "these woods are full of robbers, and they may attack us."  Our path was fenced in by thorny thickets and tall clumps of cactus, and at every winding we were careful to have our arms in readiness.  We climbed the first long ascent to a narrow plain, or shelf, from which we ascended again, finding always higher ridges above us.  Fron the Abrevadero, a sort of inn or hospice standing alone in the woods, the hot, low country we left was visible nearly as far as Acaponeta; to one going towards Mazatlan, its dark-blue level might easily be mistaken for the sea.  The Silla de San Juan was now to the west of us, and stood nearly five thousand feet in height.  From the top of every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:successive ridge we overlooked a great extent of country, broken and cloven in all downward directions by the agency of some pre-Adamite flood, yet inclosing in many sheltered valleys and basins spots of singular fertility and beauty, which are watered through whole year from the cisterns of the mountains.  It was truly, as the old lady at El Rosario said, " <HI REND="italics">un pais precioso</HI>
123.sgm:<P>We reached at noon a village called El Ingenio, about twelve leagues from Tepic.  It lies in a warm valley planted with bananas and sugar-cane; the mountain streams are made to turn a number of mills, from which the place probably derives its name.  Here the road from San Blas runs up through a narrow gorge and joins that from Mazatlan.  We walked behind our horses all the afternoon, but as mine held out best, I gradually got ahead of the arriero.  I halted several times for him to come up, but as he did not appear, I thought it advisable to push on to a good place of rest.  My caminador had touched the bottom of his capability, and another day would have broken him down completely.  Nevertheless, he had served me faithfully and performed miracles, considering his wasted condition.  I drove him forward up ravines, buried in foliage and fragrant with blossoms; the golden globes of the oranges spangled the "embalme&acute;d darkness," as twilight settled on the mountains.  Two leagues from Tepic, I reached the hacienda of La Meca, and quartered myself for the night.  One of the rancheros wished to purchase my horse, and after some chaffering, I agreed to deliver him in Tepic for four dollars!  The owner of the hacienda, on learning this, was greatly disappointed that I had not bargained with him, and urged me very strongly to break my word and sell him the horse for three dollars and a half!  I told him I would not sell the animal for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The young rancheros belonging to the hacienda amused themselves very much at my expense.  A demon of fun seemed to possess them, and the simple sentences in my Spanish phrase-book excited them to yells of laughter.  They were particularly curious to know my tastes and preferences, and on learning that I had never drank <HI REND="italics">mescal</HI>
123.sgm:, invited me to go with them and try it.  We went down the road to a little hut, where a shelf with a bottle and two glasses upon it swinging under the thatched portico, signified "Liquor for Sale," to the passing arrieros.  We entered and sat down among the family, who were at their scanty supper of rice and tortillas.  The poor people offered me their own plates with a most genuine unsophisticated hospitality; the rancheros told them whence I came, and they seemed anxious to learn something about my country.  I tasted the <HI REND="italics">mescal</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Tepic is built on the first plateau of the table-land, and about half-way between the Silla de San Juan and an extinct volcano <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I had been directed to call at the posada of Don&tilde;a Petra, but no one seemed to know the lady.  Wandering about at random in the streets, I asked a boy to conduct me to some me&acute;son.  As I rode along, following him, a group of tailors sitting at a street-corner, sewing, called out: "Americano!" " <HI REND="italics">No tiene uste&acute;d cuidado</HI>
123.sgm:," said the boy, " <HI REND="italics">son mal criados</HI>
123.sgm: "  (Don't mind them; they have bad manners.)  I followed him into the court-yard of a large building, where I was received by the <HI REND="italics">patron</HI>
123.sgm:, who gave my done-over horse to the charge of the mozo, telling me I was just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:in time for breakfast.  My name was suddenly called from the opposite corridor; I turned about in surprise, and recognised the face of Mr. Jones of Guadalajara, whom I had met in Mazatlan.  He had likewise just arrived, and was deep in the midst of a tempting salad and omelette, where I soon joined him.  I had been in the house but a few minutes, when a heavy shower began, and continued several hours without cessation; it was the first of the <HI REND="italics">caban&tilde;uelos</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Leaving the me&acute;son on a bright Sunday noon, I left the city by the Guadalajara road.  The plaza was full of people, all in spotless holiday dress; a part of the exercises were performed in the portals of the cathedral, thus turning the whole square into a place of worship.  At the tingle of the bell, then thousand persons dropped on their knees, repeating their <HI REND="italics">aves</HI>
123.sgm: with a light, murmuring sound, that chimed pleasantly with the bubbling of the fountain.  I stopped my horse and took off my sombrero till the prayer was over.  The scenery beyond Tepic is very picturesque; the road crosses the plateau on which the city is built, and rounds the foot of San Gue&die;ngue&die;y, whose summit, riven into deep gulfs between its pinnacles of rock, was half-hidden in clouds as I passed.  I came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>My <HI REND="italics">prie&acute;to</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Against the wing-wall of the Hacienda del Mayo, which occupied one end of the plaza, was raised a platform, on which stood a table covered with scarlet cloth.  A rude bower of cane-leaves, on one end of the platform, represented the manger of Bethlehem; while a cord, stretched from its top across the plaza to a hole in the front of the church, bore a large tinsel star, suspended by a hole in its centre.  There was quite a crowd in the plaza, and very soon a procession appeared, coming up from the lower part of the village.  The three kings took the lead; the Virgin, mounted on an ass that gloried in a gilded saddle and rose-be-sprinkled mane and tail, followed them, led by the angel; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>In a little while, a company of women on the platform, concealed behind a curtain, sang an angelic chorus to the tune of "O pescator dell'onda."  At the proper moment, the Magi turned towards the platform, followed by the star, to which a string was conveniently attached, that it might be slid along the line.  The three kings followed the star till it reached the manger, when they dismounted, and inquired for the sovereign whom it had led them to visit.  They were invited upon the platform and introduced to Herod, as the only king; this did not seem to satisfy them, and, after some conversation, they retired.  By this time the star had receded to the other end of the line, and commenced moving forward again, they following.  The angel called them into the manger, where, upon their knees, they were shown a small wooden box, supposed to contain the sacred infant; they then retired, and the star brought them back no more.  After this departure, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The angel, on hearing this, gave warning to the Virgin, who quickly got down from the platform, mounted her bespangled donkey and hurried off.  Herod's Prime Minister directed all the children to be handed up for execution.  A boy, in a ragged sarape, was caught and thrust forward; the Minister took him by the heels in spite of his kicking, and held his head on the table.  The little brother and sister of the boy, thinking he was really to be decapitated, yelled at the top of their voices, in an agony of terror, which threw the crowd into a roar of laughter.  King Herod brought down his sword with a whack on the table, and the Prime Minister, dipping his brush into a pot of white paint which stood before him, made a flaring cross on the boy's face.  Several other boys were caught and served likewise; and, finally, the two harlequins, whose kicks and struggles nearly shook down the platform.  The procession then went off up the hill, followed by the whole population of the village.  All the evening there were fandangos in the me&acute;son, bonfires and rockets on the plaza, ringing of bells, and high mass in the church, with the accompaniment of two guitars, tinkling to lively polkas.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I left San Lionel early in the morning.  The road, leaving the valley, entered the defiles of the mountains, crossing many a wild and rocky <HI REND="italics">barranca</HI>
123.sgm:.  (A barranca nearly answers to the idea of our word "gulley," but is on a deeper and grander scale.)  A beautiful species of pine already appeared, but in the warm hollows small plantations of bananas still flourished.  I lost sight of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I rode thirty miles, to the village of Santa Ysabel, before break-fasting, and still had twenty-one miles to Ahuacatlan, my stopping-place for the night.  My road led down the beautiful valley, between fields of the <HI REND="italics">agave americana</HI>
123.sgm:.  Sunset came on as I reached the foot of Zurubuco, and struck on a rocky path across a projecting spur.  Here a most wonderful region opened before me.  The pleasant valley disappeared, with everything that reminded me of life, and I was surrounded, as far as the vision extended, with the black waves of a lava sea.  It was terrible as the gates of Tartarus--a wild, inexorable place, with no gleam of light on its chaotic features.  The road was hewn with difficulty through the surgy crests of rock, which had stiffened to adamant, while tossing in their most tempestuous rage.  The only thing like vegetation, was a tree with a red and bloated trunk, the bark of which peeled off in shreds,--apparently a sort of vegetable elephantiasis, as disgusting as the human specimens I saw on the Isthmus.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>At the me&acute;son I found no one but the hostess and her two little sons; but the latter attended to my wants with a childish courtesy, and gravity withal, which were charming.  The little fellows gave me the key to a room, saw my <HI REND="italics">prie&acute;to</HI>
123.sgm: properly cared for, and then sat down to entertain me till the tortillas were made and the eggs fried.  They talked with much nai&die;vete&acute; and a wisdom beyond their years.  After supper they escorted me to my room, and took leave of me with: " <HI REND="italics">pasa uste&circ; muy buena noche</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Leaving this valley, which was like a crystal or a piece of perfect enamel, buried in a region that Nature had left in the rough, I climbed a barren hill, which terminated at the brink of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:the grand Barranca--a tremendous chasm, dividing two sections of the table-land.  Two thousand feet below, at the level of the Tierra Caliente, lay a strip of Eden-like richness and beauty, but the mountains which walled it on both sides were dark, sterile and savage.  Those opposite to me rose as far above the level of the ledge on which I stood, as their bases sank below it.  Their appearance was indescribably grand; for the most perfect and sublime effect of a mountain is to be had neither from base nor summit, but a station midway between the two and separated from it.  The road descending to Plan de Barranca, a little village at the bottom of the chasm, is built with great labor along the very verge of giddy precipices, or notched under the eaves of crags which threaten to topple down upon it.  The ascent of the opposite steep is effected by a stony trail, barely large enough for two mules to pass, up the side of a wide crevice in the mountain-wall.  Finally, the path appears to fail; the precipice falls sheer on one side; the bare crag rises on the other.  But a sudden twist around the corner of a rock reveals a narrow cleft, terminating in the lower shelf of the table-land above.  Looking back after I had scaled this, an <HI REND="italics">atajo</HI>
123.sgm: of mules which followed me, appeared to be emerging from the bowels of the earth.  The road crossing the barranca is nearly fifteen miles in length.  Large numbers of workmen are engaged in completing it for vehicles, and over the deepest chasm a bridge is being constructed by the State of Jalisco.  Five years, however, is the shortest period named for the completion of the work, up to which time the barranca will remain impassable except for mules.  The line of stages to Tepic, which is greatly demanded by the increase of travel, cannot therefore be perfected before that time; but Sen&tilde;or Zurutuza, the proprietor of the diligence lines, proposes opening a communication immediately, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>My <HI REND="italics">prie&acute;to</HI>
123.sgm: began to feel the effects of the hard hills and thin air of the upper region, and I therefore stopped for the night at the inn of Mochitilte, an immense building, sitting alone like a fortress among the hills.  The key of a large, cheerless room, daubed with attempts at fresco ornament, was given to me, and a supper served up in a cold and gloomy hall.  The wind blew chill from the heights on either side, and I found <HI REND="italics">prie&acute;to's</HI>
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123.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>THE ROBBER REGION.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I SLEPT soundly in my frescoed chamber, fed <HI REND="italics">prie&acute;to</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The little town of Magdalena, where I breakfasted, sits beside the lake, at the foot of a glen through which the road again enters the hills.  The waters of a clear stream trickle down through its streets and keep green the gardens of splendid orange-trees which gleam behind the gray adobe walls.  At the me&acute;son I gave prie&acute;to a sheaf of <HI REND="italics">oja</HI>
123.sgm: and two hours' rest before starting for the town of Tequila.  " <HI REND="italics">No quiere uste&circ; tomar ausilio?--hay muchos ladrones en el camino</HI>
123.sgm:;" (Don't you want a guard?--the road is full of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:robbers,) asked the vaquero of the house.  "Every traveler," he continued, "takes a guard as far as Tequila, for which he pays each man a dollar."  I told him I had no particular fear of the robbers, and would try it alone.  "You are very courageous," he remarked, "but you will certainly be attacked unless you take me as an <HI REND="italics">ausilio</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Soon after leaving the town I met a <HI REND="italics">conducta</HI>
123.sgm: of a hundred soldiers, escorting about fifty specie-laden mules.  The officers were finely mounted, but the men, most of whom had broad, swarthy Indian faces, trudged along in the dust.  Some of them greeted me with: " <HI REND="italics">Como va, paisano</HI>
123.sgm:?" some with "How do you do?" and others with a round English oath, but all imagining, apparently, that they had made the same salutation.  As I was passing, a tawny individual, riding with one of the officers, turned about and addressed me in English.  He was an American, who had been several years in the country, and was now on his way to California, concerning which he wanted some information.  Notwithstanding he was bound to San Blas and had all his funds packed on one of the mules, he seemed still undecided whether to embark for San Francisco, and like most of the other emigrants I met, insisted strongly on my opinion as to the likelihood of <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
123.sgm: success.  The road now entered a narrow pass, following the dry bed of a stream, whose channel was worn about twenty feet deep in the earth.  Its many abrupt twists and windings afforded unequalled chances for the guerillas, especially as the pass was nearly three leagues in length, without a single habitation on the road.  My friend, Lieutenant Beale, was chased by a party of robbers, in this very place, on his express journey across Mexico, in the summer of 1848.  I did not meet with a single soul, although it was not later than the middle of the afternoon.  The recent passing of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<HI REND="italics">conducta</HI>
123.sgm:<P>After riding two hours in the hot afternoon sun, which shone down into the pass, a sudden turn disclosed to me a startling change of scenery.  From the depths of the scorched hills, I came at once upon the edge of a bluff, several hundred feet high, down which the road wound in a steep and tortuous descent.  Below and before me extended a plain of twenty miles in length, entirely covered with fields of the <HI REND="italics">maguey</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I rode down into the city, crossing several arroyos, which the floods gathered by the volcano had cut deeper into the plain.  At the <HI REND="italics">Meson de San Jose&acute;</HI>
123.sgm: --the only inn in the place--I found a large company of soldiers quartered for the night.  The inner <HI REND="italics">patio</HI>
123.sgm: or courtyard, with its stables, well, and massive trough of hewn stone, was appropriated to their horses, and groups of swarthy privates, in dusty blue uniforms, filled the corridors.  I obtained a dark room for myself, and a corner of one of the stalls for <HI REND="italics">prie&acute;to</HI>
123.sgm:, where I was obliged to watch until he had fini shed his corn, and keep off his military aggressors.  The women were all absent, and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>When I arose, the sun, just above the hills, was shining down the long street that led to Guadalajara.  I had a journey of eighteen leagues to make, and it was time to be on the road; so, without feeding my horse, I saddled and rode away.  A little more than four leagues across the plain, brought me to the town of Amatitlan; where, at a miserable mud building, dignified by the name of a me&acute;son, I ordered breakfast, and a <HI REND="italics">mano de oja</HI>
123.sgm: for my horse.  There was none in the house, but one of the neighbors began shelling a quantity of the ripe ears.  When I came to pay, I gave her a Mexican dollar, which she soon brought back, saying that it had been pronounced counterfeit at a <HI REND="italics">tienda</HI>
123.sgm:, or shop, across the way.  I then gave her another, which she returned, with the same story, after which I gave her a third, saying she must change it, for I would give her no more.  The affairs of a few hours later caused me to remember and understand the meaning of this little circumstance.  At the <HI REND="italics">tienda</HI>
123.sgm:, a number of fellows in greasy sarapes were grouped, drinking mescal, which they offered me.  I refused to join them: " <HI REND="italics">es la ultima vez</HI>
123.sgm:<P>It was about ten in the forenoon when I left Amatitlan.  The road entered on a lonely range of hills, the pedestal of an abrupt spur standing out from the side of the volcano.  The soil was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>"Down with your pistols!" cried the first, in a hurried whisper.  So silently and suddenly had all this taken place, that I sat still a moment, hardly realizing my situation.  "Down with your pistols and dismount!" was repeated, and this time the barrels came a little nearer my breast.  Thus solicited, I threw down my single pistol--the more readily because it was harmless--and got off my horse.  Having secured the pistol, the robbers went to the rear, never for a moment losing their aim.  They then ordered me to lead my horse off the road, by a direction which they pointed out.  We went down the side of the ravine for about a quarter of a mile to a patch of bushes and tall grass, out of view from the road, where they halted, one of them returning, apparently to keep watch.  The others, deliberately levelling their pieces at me, commanded me to lie down on my face--" <HI REND="italics">la boca a&grave; tierra</HI>
123.sgm:!"  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:cannot say that I felt alarmed: it had always been a part of my belief that the shadow of Death falls before him--that the man doomed to die by violence feels the chill before the blow has been struck.  As I never felt more positively alive than at that moment, I judged my time had not yet come.  I pulled off my coat and vest, at their command, and threw them on the grass, saying: "Take what you want, but don't detain me long."  The fellow in a pink calico shirt, who appeared to have some authority over the other two, picked up my coat, and, one after the other, turned all the pockets inside out.  I felt a secret satisfaction at his blank look when he opened my purse and poured the few dollars it contained into a pouch he carried in his belt.  "How is it," said he, "that you have no more money?"  "I don't owe much," I answered, "but there is quite enough for you."  I had, in fact, barely sufficient in coin for a ride to Mexico, the most of my funds having been invested in a draft on that city.  I believe I did not lose more than twenty-five dollars by this attack.  "At least," I said to the robbers, "you'll not take the papers"--among which was my draft.  " <HI REND="italics">No</HI>
123.sgm:," he replied, " <HI REND="italics">no me valen nada</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Having searched my coat, he took a hunting-knife which I carried, (belonging, however, to Lieut. Beale,) examined the blade and point, placed his piece against a bush behind him and came up to me, saying, as he held the knife above my head: "Now put your hands behind you, and don't move, or I shall strike."  The other then laid down his musket and advanced to bind me.  They were evidently adepts in the art: all their movements were so carefully timed, that any resistance would have been against dangerous odds.  I did not consider my loss sufficient to justify any desperate risk, and did as they commanded.  With the end <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:of my horse's lariat, they bound my wrists firmly together, and having me thus secure, sat down to finish their inspection more leisurely.  My feelings during this proceeding were oddly heterogeneous--at one moment burning with rage and shame at having neglected the proper means of defence, and the next, ready to burst into a laugh at the decided novelty of my situation.  My blanket having been spread on the grass, everything was emptied into it.  The robbers had an eye for the curious and incomprehensible, as well as the useful.  They spared all my letters, books and papers, but took my thermometer, compass and card-case, together with a number of drawing-pencils, some soap, (a thing the Mexicans never use,) and what few little articles of the toilette I carried with me.  A bag hanging at my saddle-bow, containing ammunition, went at once, as well as a number of oranges and cigars in my pockets, the robbers leaving me <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Between Mazatlan and Tepic, I had carried a doubloon in the hollow of each foot, covered by the stocking.  It was well they had been spent for <HI REND="italics">prie&acute;to</HI>
123.sgm:, for they would else have certainly been discovered.  The villains unbuckled my spurs, jerked off my boots and examined the bottoms of my pantaloons, ungirthed the saddle and shook out the blankets, scratched the heavy guard of the bit to see whether it was silver, and then, apparently satisfied that they had made the most of me, tied everything together in a corner of my best blanket.  "Now," said the leader, when this was done, "shall we take your horse?"  This question was of course a mockery; but I thought I would try an experiment, and so answered in a very decided tone: "No; you shall not.  I <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
123.sgm: have him; I am going to Guadalajara, and I cannot get there without him.  Besides, he would not answer at all for your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:business."  He made no reply, but took up his piece, which I noticed was a splendid article and in perfect order, walked a short distance towards the road, and made a signal to the third robber.  Suddenly he came back, saying: "Perhaps you may get hungry before night--here is something to eat;" and with that he placed one of my oranges and half a dozen tortillas on the grass beside me.  " <HI REND="italics">Mil gracias</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I waited till no more of them could be seen, and then turned to my horse, who stood quietly at the other end of the lariat: "Now, <HI REND="italics">prie&acute;to</HI>
123.sgm:<P>It is astonishing how light one feels after being robbed.  A sensation of complete independence came over me; my horse, even, seemed to move more briskly, after being relieved of my blankets.  I tried to comfort myself with the thought that this was a genuine adventure, worth one experience--that, perhaps, it was better to lose a few dollars than have even a robber's blood on my head; but it would not do.  The sense of the outrage and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:indignity was strongest, and my single desire was the unchristian one of revenge.  It is easy to philosophize on imaginary premises, but actual experience is the best test of human nature.  Once, it had been difficult for me to imagine the feeling that would prompt a man to take the life of another; now, it was clear enough.  In spite of the threats of the robbers, I looked in their faces sufficiently to know them again, in whatever part of the world I might meet them.  I recognized the leader--a thick-set, athletic man, with a short, black beard--as one of the persons I had seen lounging about the <HI REND="italics">tienda</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I rode on rapidly, over broad, barren hills, covered with patches of chapparal, and gashed with deep arroyos.  These are the usual hiding-places of the robbers, and I kept a sharp look-out, inspecting every rock and clump of cactus with a peculiar interest.  About three miles from the place of my encounter, I passed a spot where there had been a desperate assault eighteen months previous.  The robbers came upon a camp of soldiers and traders in the night, and a fight ensued, in which eleven of the latter were killed.  They lie buried by the road-side, with a few black crosses to mark the spot, while directly above them stands a rough gibbet, on which three of the robbers, who were afterwards taken, swing in chains.  I confess to a decided feeling of satisfaction, when I saw that three, at least, had obtained their deserts.  Their long black hair hung over their faces, their clothes were dropping in tatters, and their skeleton-bones protruded through the dry and shrunken flesh.  The thin, pure air of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Towards the middle of the afternoon, I reached a military station called La Venta, seven leagues from Guadalajara.  Thirty or forty idle soldiers were laughing and playing games in the shade.  I rode up to the house and informed the officer of my loss, mentioning several circumstances by which the robbers might be identified; but the zealous functionary merely shrugged his shoulders and said nothing.  A proper distribution of half the soldiers who lay idle in this guard-house, would have sufficed to make the road perfectly secure.  I passed on, with a feeling of indignation against the country and its laws, and hurried my prie&acute;to, now nearly exhausted, over the dusty plain.  I had ascended beyond the tropical heats, and, as night drew on, the temperature was fresh almost to chilliness.  The robbers had taken my cravat and vest, and the cold wind of the mountains, blowing upon my bare neck gave me a violent nervous pain and toothache, which was worse than the loss of my money.  Prie&acute;to panted and halted with fatigue, for he had already traveled fifty miles; but I was obliged to reach Guadalajara, and by plying a stick in lieu of the abstracted spur, kept him to his pace.  At dusk I passed through Sapopa, a small village, containing a splendid monastery, belonging to the monks of the order of Guadalupe.  Beyond it, I overtook, in the moonlight, the family of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:ranchero, jogging along on their mules and repeating paternosters, whether for protection against robbers or cholera, I could not tell.  The plain was crossed by deep, water-worn arroyos, over which the road was bridged.  An hour and a half of this bleak, ghostly travel brought me to the suburbs of Guadalajara--greatly to the relief of <HI REND="italics">prie&acute;to</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I was riding at random among the dark adobe houses, when an old padre, in black cassock and immense shovel-hat, accosted me.  " <HI REND="italics">Estrangero</HI>
123.sgm:?" he inquired; " <HI REND="italics">Si, padre</HI>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>THREE DAYS IN GUADALAJARA.</P>
123.sgm:<P>WHEN I got off my horse at the Me&acute;son de la Merce&acute;d, I told the host and the keeper of the <HI REND="italics">fonda</HI>
123.sgm: that I had been robbed, that I had no money, and did not expect to have any for two or three days.  " <HI REND="italics">No hace nada</HI>
123.sgm:," said they, "you may stay as long as you like."  So they gave my horse a sheaf of <HI REND="italics">oja</HI>
123.sgm: and myself a supper of tortillas and pepper-sauce.  The old lady who kept the fonda was of half-Castilian blood, and possessed all the courtesy of her white ancestors, with the quickness and vivacity of the Indian.  She was never tired of talking to me about the strangers who had stopped at the me&acute;son,--especially of one whom she called Don Julio, who, knowing little Spanish, frequently accosted her as "mule!" or "donkey!" for want of some other word.  She would mimic him with great apparent delight.  She had three daughters--Felipa, Mariquita and Concepcion--of whom the two former were very beautiful.  They were employed in the manufacture of rebosas, and being quite skilful in tending the machines, earned a dollar a day--a considerable sum for Mexico.  Concepcion was married, and had a son named Zenobio--a very handsome, sprightly little fellow, with dark, humid, lustrous eyes.  The circumstance of my remembering and calling each one by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>My first move next morning was to find the Diligence Office.  I went into the main plaza, which is a beautiful square, shaded by orange trees, and flanked on two sides by the picturesque front of the Cathedral and the Government Palace.  As I was passing the latter building, one of the sentinels hailed me.  Supposing it to be meant in derision, I paid no attention to it, but presently a sergeant, accompanied by two men, came after me.  One of the latter accosted me in English, saying that it was so long since he had seen an American, he hoped I would stop and talk with him  He was a Scotchman, who for some reason had enlisted for a year and had already served about half of his time.  He complained bitterly of the bad treatment of the men, who, according to his story, were frequently on the point of starvation.  The Mexican soldiers are not furnished with rations, but paid a small sum daily, on which they support themselves.  As the supplies from headquarters are very irregular, and a system of appropriation is practised by all the officers through whose hands they must come, the men are sometimes without food for a day or two, and never receive more than is barely sufficient for their wants.  The poor Scotchman was heartily sick of his situation and told me he would have deserted long before, only that he had no other clothes in which to disguise himself.</P>
123.sgm:<P>At the office of the Diligence, I found the <HI REND="italics">administrador</HI>
123.sgm:, Don Lorenzo del Castan&tilde;o, to whom I related my story and showed my draft.  " <HI REND="italics">Es superior</HI>
123.sgm:," said he, after examining it, and then told me to call the next morning, as he would see a merchant in the meantime, who, he was sure, would pay me the amount.  Drafts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>I found Guadalajara in a state of terror and prayers.  For a month previous the inhabitants had been expecting the arrival of the Cholera, now that its ravages in Durango and Zacatecas were over.  The city authorities were doing everything in their power to hasten its approach, by prohibiting all public amusements and instituting solemn religious festivals.  The Cathedral was at all times crowded with worshippers, the Host frequently carried through the streets, gunpowder burned and rockets sent up to propitiate the Virgin.  As yet no case had been reported in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>Guadalajara is considered the most beautiful city in Mexico.  Seated on a shelf of the table-land, between three and four thousand feet above the sea, it enjoys a milder climate than the capital, and while its buildings lack very little of the magnificence of the latter, its streets are a model of cleanliness and order.  The block fronting on the north side of the plaza, is a single solid edifice of stone, called the <HI REND="italics">Cortal</HI>
123.sgm:, with a broad corridor, supported on stone arches, running around it.  The adjoining block is built on the same plan, and occupied entirely by shops of all kinds.  Shielded alike from rain and sun, it is a favorite promenade, and always wears a gay and busy aspect.  The intervals between the pillars, next the street, are filled with cases of toys, pictures, gilt images of saints, or gaudy slippers, sarapes and rebosas.  Here the rancheros may be seen in abundance, buying ornaments for the next festivals.  Venders of fruit sit at the corners, their mats filled with fragrant and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:gleaming pyramids, and the long shelves of cool barley-water and <HI REND="italics">tepache</HI>
123.sgm:, ranged in glasses of alternate white and purple, attract the thirsty idler.  Here and there a group is gathered around a placard pasted on the wall--some religious edict of the cholera-fearing authorities, a list of the fortunate tickets in the last lottery, or the advertisement of a magnificent cock-fight that is to come off in the old town of Urua&grave;pan.  The bulletin at the lottery-office is always surrounded; rancheros, housemaids, padres and robbers come up, pull out their tickets from under their cassocks and dirty sarapes, compare the numbers and walk away with the most complete indifference at their ill luck.  The shops belonging to different trades are always open; tailors and shoemakers frequently sit in groups in the open corridor, with their work on their knees, undisturbed by the crowds that pass to and fro.  I spent several hours daily in the <HI REND="italics">cortal</HI>
123.sgm:<P>It is remarkable how soon a man's misfortunes are made public.  The second day of my stay in Guadalajara, I believe I was known to most of the inhabitants as "the American who was robbed."  This, together with my rugged and dusty suit of clothing, (what was left of it,) made me the subject of general notice; so, after selling my draft, I hastened to disguise myself in a white shirt and a pair of Mexican pantaloons.  One benefit of this notoriety was, that it was the means of my becoming acquainted with two or three American residents, and through them, with several intelligent and agreeable citizens.  I never entered a place under such woful auspices, nor passed the time of my stay more delightfully.  In walking about the streets I was often hailed with the word " <HI REND="italics">uistli</HI>
123.sgm:!" by some of the lower class.  From the sound I thought it might possibly be an old Aztec word of salutation; but one day I met a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:man, who, as he said it, held up a bottle of mescal, and I saw at once that he meant <HI REND="italics">whiskey</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The appearance of Guadalajara on Sunday morning was very cheerful and beautiful.  Everybody was in the streets, though not more than half the shops were closed; the bells rang at intervals from the cathedral and different churches; the rancheros flocked in from the country, the men in snow-white shirts and blue calzoneros, the women in their best rebosas and petticoats of some gay color; and the city, clean swept by the convicts, and flooded with warm sunshine, seemed to give itself up truly to a holiday.  I walked down along the banks of the little river which divides it into two unequal parts.  The pink towers of the Bishop's Palace rose lightly in the air; up a long street, the gateway of the Convent of San Francisco stood relieved against a shaded court-yard; the palms in some of the near gardens rustled in a slow breeze, but the dark shafts of the cypress were silent and immovable.  Along the parapets of the bridges, the rancheros displayed their faggots of sugar-cane and bunches of bananas, chatting gaily with each other, and with their neighbors who passed by on mules or asses.  I visited most of the churches during the time of service.  Many of them are spacious and might be made impressive, but they are all disfigured by a tawdry and tasteless style of ornament, a profusion of glaring paint and gilding, ghastly statues, and shocking pictures.  The church of the Convent of San Francisco is partly an exception to this censure; in a sort of loggia it has a large painting of the Last Supper, by a Mexican artist, which is truly a work of great beauty.  In the body of the church are several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I found great source for amusement in the carriages collected near the doors during mass-hour.  They were all the manufacture of the country, and the most of them dated from the last century.  The running works were of immense size, the four wheels sustaining a massive and elaborately carved frame, rising five or six feet from the ground, and about twelve feet in length.  In the centre of this, suspended in some miraculous manner, hung a large wooden globe, with a door in each side--a veritable Noah's Ark in form and solidity, and capable of concealing a whole family (and the Mexican families are always large) in its hollow maw.  These machines were frequently made still more ridiculous by the pair of dwarfed, starved mules, hitched to the tongue, so far in advance that they seemed to be running away from the mountain which pursued and was about to overwhelm them.  I concluded, however, after some reflection, that they were peculiarly adapted to the country.  In case of revolution they would be not only bullet but bomb proof, and as there are no good roads among the mountains, they would roll from  top to bottom, or shoot off a precipice, without danger to the family within.  There are several extensive carriage manufactories in Guadalajara, but the modern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>In the afternoon I went with some friends to make a <HI REND="italics">paseo</HI>
123.sgm:<P>A still more beautiful scene awaited us in the evening.  The <HI REND="italics">paseo</HI>
123.sgm: is then transferred to the plaza, and all the fashionable population appears on foot--a custom which I found in no other Mexican city.  I went there at nine o'clock.  The full moon was shining down over the cathedral towers; the plaza was almost as distinct as by day, except that the shadows were deeper; the white arches and pillars of the <HI REND="italics">cortal</HI>
123.sgm: were defined brilliantly against the black gloom of the corridor, and the rows of orange trees, with their leaves glittering in the moonlight, gave out a rare and exquisite odor from their hidden blossoms.  We sat down on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Among the Guadalajarans I met was Don Ramon Luna, a gentleman of great intelligence and refinement.  His father emigrated from Spain as a soldier in the ranks, but by prudence, energy and native talent, succeeded in amassing a large fortune.  Don Ramon spoke English and French with great fluency, and was, moreover, very enthusiastic on the subject of Mexican antiquities.  At his ranche, a few leagues from Guadalajara, he had, as he informed me, a large number of ancient idols and fossil remains, which the workmen had collected by his order.  I regretted that the shortness of my stay did not permit me to call on Padre Najar, of the Convent del Carmen, who formerly resided in Philadelphia, and published a very able work on the Otomai language.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The diligence was to start on Monday.  On Saturday afternoon  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:I sold my horse to a sort of trader living in the me&acute;son, for seven dollars, as he was somewhat worn out, and horses were cheap in Guadalajara.  The parting with my good hosts the next day was rather more difficult, and I was obliged to make a positive promise of return within three years, before they would consent that I should go.  After I had obtained some money and paid them for my board, the old lady told me that thenceforth she would only charge half-price for every meal I chose to take in her house.  "Thanks to the Supreme King," said she, "I have not been so much in need that I should treat friends and strangers both alike."  After this, I only paid a medio for my dinner of eggs, frijoles, lantecas and chili colorado.  On Sunday night I rolled up my few possessions in my sarape, took leave of the family and went to the <HI REND="italics">Casa de Diligencias</HI>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>IN THE DILIGENCE TO GUANAJUATO.</P>
123.sgm:<P>THE mozo awoke me shortly after three o'clock, and before I had finished dressing, brought me a cup of foaming chocolate and a biscuit.  The only other passenger was a student from Tepic, on his return to college, in Mexico.  The stage already waited for us, and we had no sooner taken our seats on the leather cushions, than " <HI REND="italics">vamonos</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The style of diligence travel in Mexico is preferable to that of any other country.  The passenger is waked at three o'clock in the morning, has a cup of chocolate brought him, (and no one has drank chocolate who has not drank it there) takes his seat, and has nearly reached the end of the second post by sunrise.  The heavy stage, of Troy manufacture, is drawn by six horses, four leaders abreast, who go at a dashing gallop as long as the road is level.  About eleven o'clock a breakfast of six or eight courses is served up in good style, the coachman waiting until the last man has leisurely finished.  There is no twanging of the horn and cry of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>The second post brought us to the Rio Santiago, which I had crossed once between Mazatlan and Tepic.  We got out to look at the old stone bridge and the mist of a cataract that rose above the banks, two or three hundred yards below.  Our road lay across broad, stony tracts of country, diversified by patches of cactus; in the distance, the mountain parapet of a still higher table-land was to be seen.  The third post, thirty miles from Guadalajara, was at the village of Zapotlanejo, where the cholera had already appeared.  The groom who assisted in harnessing our fresh horses, informed us that twenty persons had died of it.  The place looked quiet and half-deserted; many of the houses were studded with little wooden crosses, stuck into the chinks of the adobes.  The village of Tepatitlan, which we passed during the forenoon, was likewise a cholera locality.  We dashed through it and over a bare, bleak upland, many leagues in width, in the middle of which stood the Rancho de la Tierra Colorada, (Ranche of the Red Earth) our breakfast-place.</P>
123.sgm:<P>During the afternoon we crossed a very rough and stony barranca.  The chasm at the bottom was spanned by a fine bridge, and eight cream-colored mules were in readiness to take us up the ascent.  Even after reaching the level, the road was terribly rough, and the bounds which our stage made as it whirled along, threatened to disjoint every limb in our bodies.  I received a stunning blow on the crown of my head, from being thrown up violently against the roof.  We were truly rejoiced when, late in the afternoon, we saw the little town of San Miguel before us, in a hollow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The next morning our route lay over the dreary table-land, avoiding the many chasms and barrancas with which its surface was  seamed: often running upon a narrow ridge, with a gaping hollow on each side.  The rancheros were ploughing in some places, but the greater part of the soil seemed to be given up to pasturage.  The fields were divided by walls of stone, but frequently, in the  little villages, a species of cactus had been planted so as to form gardens and corrals, its straight, single pillars standing side by side, to the height of ten feet, with scarcely a crevice between.  The people we met, were more hale and ruddy in their appearance than those of the Tierra Caliente.  As they galloped alongside the stage, with their hats off, speaking with the driver, I thought I had never seen more lightly and strongly made forms, or more perfect teeth.  When they laughed, their mouths seemed to blaze with the sparkling white rows exhibited.  Towards noon, we saw, far ahead, the tops of two towers, that appeared to rise out of the earth.  They belonged to the church of San Juan de Los Lagos, the place of the great Annual Fair of Mexico--a city of five thousand inhabitants, built at the bottom of a deep circular basin, whose rim is only broken on one side by a gash which lets out the waters it collects in the rainy season.  Seen from the edge of the basin, just before you commence the descent, a more fantastic picture could scarcely be imagined.  The towers of the church are among the tallest in Mexico.  During the Fair, the basin is filled to its brim, and a tent-city, containing from three hundred thousand to half a million inhabitants, is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I took an afternoon stroll through Lagos, visiting the marketplace and principal churches, but found nothing worthy of particular note.  We arose in the moonlight, chocolated in the <HI REND="italics">comedor</HI>
123.sgm:, or dining-hall, and took our seats--seven in all--in the diligence.  We speedily left the neat, gay and pleasant city behind us, and began a journey which promised to be similar to that of the two preceding days--a view of barren table-land, covered with stone fences and cactus hedges, on either side, and blue mountains ever in far perspective.  With the sun, however, things looked more cheerful, and soon after entering on the third post, we climbed a stony <HI REND="italics">cerro</HI>
123.sgm:, from which opened a splendid view of the Valley of Leon.  Far as the vision extended, the effect was still heightened by a veil of thin blue vapor which arose from the broad leagues of field and meadow below us.  In the centre of the picture rose the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Our horses galloped into Leon--a large and lively town, which pleased me much better than Lagos.  We had a capital breakfast of eight courses in the hall of the <HI REND="italics">Sociedad del Comercio</HI>
123.sgm:, and took in two fresh passengers, which just filled the diligence.  Dashing out of the town, the road led over the level plain, between fields and gardens of great fertility.  In the soft morning light, the animation and beauty of the scene were delightful.  The peons were everywhere at work in the fields, watering the trees and vegetables from wells, out of which they drew the water with long poles.  At a bridge over the dry bed of a river near the town, I noticed a gang of about fifty ferocious fellows, in ragged sarapes.  Several soldiers, well armed, paced up and down the road, and I afterwards learned that the diligence was frequently robbed there.  Two long posts down the valley, made with horses going <HI REND="italics">a&grave; carrera</HI>
123.sgm:, brought us to Silao.  While the grooms were changing teams, we supplied ourselves with oranges, bananas, <HI REND="italics">zapotes chicos</HI>
123.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">granaditas de China</HI>
123.sgm:<P>From Silao to Guanajuato is but one post.  Leaving the former <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Of all places in Mexico, the situation of this city is the most picturesque and remarkable.  It lies like an enchanted city, buried in the heart of the mountains.  Entering a rocky can&tilde;ada, the bottom of which barely affords room for the road, you pass between high adobe walls, above which, up the steep, rise tier above tier of blank, windowless, sun-dried houses, looking as if they had grown out of the earth.  You would take them to be a sort of cubic chrystalization of the soil.  Every corner in the windings of the road is filled with the buildings of mining companies--huge fortresses of stone, ramparted as if for defence.  The scene varies with every moment;--now you look up to a church with purple dome and painted  towers; now the blank adobe walls, with here and there a spiry cypress or graceful palm between them, rise far above you, along the steep ledges of the mountain; and again, the mountain itself, with its waste of rock and cactus, is all you see.  The can&tilde;ada finally seems to close.  A precipice of rock--out of a rift in which the stream flows--shuts up the passage.  Ascending this by a twist in the road, you are in the heart of the city.  Lying partly in the narrow bed of the ravine and partly on its sides and in its lateral branches, it is only by mounting to some higher eminence that one can realize its extent and position.  At the farther end of the city the mountains form a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<HI REND="italics">cul de sac</HI>
123.sgm:<P>In the afternoon I took a walk through the city, climbing one of the hills to a cross planted on a small rocky point under the fortress of San Miguel.  Thence I could look down on the twisted streets and flat house-tops, and the busy flood of life circulating through all.  The churches, with their painted spires and domes, gave a bizarre and picturesque character to the scene.  Off to the north, in the sides of the mountains, I could see the entrances to the silver mines, and the villages of the mining communities.  Around Guanajuato there are more than a hundred mines, employing about seventy-five thousand workmen.  The business of Guanajuato is now very flourishing, the mines having in 1849 yielded $8,400,000, or $600,000 more than the previous year.  New mines have been opened on the rich vein of La Luz, which will soon be in a producing state, and promise much higher results.  There is a fascination about the business, which is almost equal to that of play.  The lucky discoverer of a new mine will frequently squander away the sudden wealth he has acquired in a week's dissipation.  The wages of the common workmen vary from four reals to two dollars a day.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Before night I visited the cathedral and the churches of San Diego and San Felipe--the latter a dark old structure, covered with quaint, half-Gothic ornaments, its front shaded by several tall cypresses.  In the church of San Diego, I saw a picture of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The procession, keeping a slow and measured pace, proceeded to the prison, where the sacrament of extreme unction was administered to the criminal.  It then returned to the cathedral, which was brilliantly lighted, and filled with a dense throng of people.  The military band was stationed in the centre, under the dome, and mingled its harmonies with those of the powerful organ.  I could get no further than the door-way, whence the whole interior <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:was visible as a lighted picture, framed in the gloomy arch under which I stood.  The rise and swell of the choral voices--the deep, stunning peal of the bells in the tower--the solemn attitude of the crowd, and the blaze of light under which all these imposing ceremonies were seen--made a powerful impression on me.  The people about me constantly repeated their paternosters, and seemed to feel a deep sympathy with the convicted.  I remembered, that in the afternoon I had seen in the cathedral a man somewhat advanced in years, who was praying with an intensity of grief and supplication that made him for the time insensible to all else.  His sobs and groans were so violent as to shake his whole frame; I had never seen a more vehement expression of anguish.  Thinking he might have been the robber's father, I began to have some compassion for the former, though now and then a wicked feeling of rejoicing would steal in, that another of the tribe was soon to be exterminated.  The most curious feature of the scene was a company of small boys, carrying bundles of leaves on which was printed the "Last Dying Speech and Confession," in poetry, the burden being " <HI REND="italics">Adios, Guanajuato amado</HI>
123.sgm:!"  These boys were scattered through the crowd, crying out: "Here you have my sentence, my confession, my death, my farewell to Guanajuato--all for a <HI REND="italics">cuartilla</HI>
123.sgm:<P>In Guanajuato I tasted <HI REND="italics">pulque</HI>
123.sgm: for the first and last time.  Seeing a woman at the corner of a street with several large jars of what I took to be barley-water, I purchased a glass.  I can only liken the taste of this beverage to a distillation of sour milk (if there could be such a thing) strongly tinctured with cayenne pepper and hartshorn.  Men were going about the streets with cans <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>They even have authors in Guanajuato.  On the theatre bills I saw the announcement that an original tragedy entitled " <HI REND="italics">El Amor Conyugal</HI>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>THE DIVIDING RIDGE, AND DESCENT INTO THE VALLEY OF MEXICO.</P>
123.sgm:<P>WE were roused in Guanajuato at three o'clock in the morning, for the <HI REND="italics">jornada</HI>
123.sgm: of one hundred and ten miles to Queretaro.  A splendid moon was riding near the zenith, with her attendant star at her side; and by her light we drove down the ominous depths of the can&tilde;ada.  The clumsy leaves of the cactus, along the ledges of the hills, seemed in the uncertain light, like the heads of robbers peering over the rocks; the crosses of the dead, here and there, spread out their black arms, and we were not free from all apprehensions of attack, until, after a post of three leagues, we reached the level and secure land of the <HI REND="italics">Bajio</HI>
123.sgm:<P>In five posts we reached the city of Salamanca, where breakfast was already on the table.  No sooner had the final dish of frijoles and cup of coffee been dispatched, than the <HI REND="italics">cochero</HI>
123.sgm: summoned us.  The mozo drew away with a jerk the rope which held the four leaders; the horses plunged and pranced till the lumbering mass of the diligence began to move, when they set off in a furious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The country through which we passed, is one of the richest regions in Mexico.  It is called the <HI REND="italics">Bajio</HI>
123.sgm:<P>As we reached the boundary of the State of Queretaro, eight lancers, armed likewise with escopettes and holster-pistols, galloped out of the cactus on a wild, stony hill, and took their places on each side of us.  They constituted a military escort (at the expense of the passengers,) to the gates of Queretaro.  With their red pennons fluttering in the wind and their rugged little horses spurred into a gallop, they were very picturesque objects.  Our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:time was divided in watching their movements and looking out for the poles planted by the roadside as a sign that robbers had been taken and shot there.  My Mexican fellow-travelers pointed to these tokens of unscrupulous punishment with evident satisfaction.  A large tree near Queretaro, with a great many lateral branches, bears a sign with the words " <HI REND="italics">Por Ladrones</HI>
123.sgm:<P>We drove into Queretaro after dark, and the only glimpse I had of the place was from the balcony of the hotel.  I regretted not having arrived earlier, for the purpose of visiting the cotton manufactory of Don Gaetano Rubio, which is the largest in the Republic.  Among the passengers in the diligence from Mexico, who joined us at the dinner-table, was a jovial padre, who talked  constantly of the Monplaisir troupe of dancers and C&oelig;nen, the violinist.  In fact, he was more familiar with American and European theatricals than any one I had met for a long time, and gave me a ready account of the whereabouts of Cerito, Ellsler,  Taglioni, and all the other divinities of the dance.  He then commenced a dissertation upon the character of the different modern languages.  The English, he said, was the language of commerce; the French, of conversation; the German, of diplomacy, because there were no words of double meaning in it!--and the Spanish, of devotion.  With his conversation and delightful cigaritos, I passed the hour before bed-time very pleasantly.  I never met a more lively and entertaining padre.</P>
123.sgm:<P>We drove to the town of San Juan del Rio, eleven leagues distant, for breakfast.  A fresh escort was given us at every post, for which a fresh contribution of two reals was levied on each passenger.  Towards evening, leaving the <HI REND="italics">Bajio</HI>
123.sgm:, we came upon a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:large, arid <HI REND="italics">llano</HI>
123.sgm:<P>We slept soundly in the several rooms allotted to us, and by  daybreak next morning were on the summit of the Pass of Capulalpan, about eleven thousand feet above the sea.  The air was thin and cold; the timber was principally oak, of a stunted and hardy kind, and the general appearance of the place is desolate in the extreme.  Here, where the streams of the two oceans are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:divided, the first view of Popocatapetl, at more than a hundred miles distance, greets the traveler.  A descent of many miles, through splendid plantations, lying in the lap of the mountains, brought us to the old town of Tula, on the banks of the Tula River, which empties into the Gulf, at Tampico.  Here we breakfasted, and then started on our last stage towards the capital.  Crossing a low range of hills, we reached the Desagua, an immense canal, cut for the draining  of the Valley of Mexico.  The afternoon was hot and breezeless; clouds of dust enveloped and almost stifled us, rising as they rolled away till they looked like slender pillars, swayed from side to side by the vibrations of the air.  We passed the towns of Guatitlan and Tanepantla, where we only stopped to get a drink of <HI REND="italics">tepache</HI>
123.sgm:, a most nourishing and refreshing beverage, compounded of parched corn, pineapple, and sugar.  The road was hedged by immense aloes, some of which had leaves ten feet in length:  they are cultivated in great quantities for the pulque, which is manufactured from their juice.  A few hours of this travel, on the level floor of the Valley of Mexico, brought us to the suburbs, where we met scores of people in carriages and on horseback, going out to take their evening <HI REND="italics">paseo</HI>
123.sgm:<P>A few minutes after my arrival, the Vera Cruz stage drove into the yard.  The first person who jumped out was my friend Mr. Parrot, U.S. Consul at Mazatlan.  Gov. Letcher, our Envoy to Mexico, came in the same stage, but was met at the Pen&tilde;on Grande by a number of Americans in carriages, and brought into the city.  It is a pleasant thing to have friends of your own size.  I made my first appearance in the City of the Montezumas covered with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>SCENES IN THE MEXICAN CAPITAL.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I SALLIED out, on the bright sunny morning after reaching Mexico,  to make a survey of the city.  The sky was cloudless except on the horizon, in the direction of Popocatapetl, and the air was charmingly cool and fresh.  Its rarity, by accelerating the breathing, had a stimulating effect, but I found that a faster pace than ordinary exhausted me in a few minutes.  Most of the shops were closed, and the people from the neighboring villages began to come in for the morning mass.  The streets are broad, tolerably clean, and have an air of solidity and massive strength beyond that of any modern city.  The houses are all of stone, with few windows on the streets, but an arched gateway in the centre, leading to a patio, or courtyard, where the only correct view of their size and magnificence may be obtained.  The glimpses through these gateways, while passing, are often very beautiful--the richly-sculptured frame of stone enclosing a sunny picture of a fountain, a cluster of orange-trees, or the slender, graceful arches of the corridor.  The buildings are painted of some light, fresh color, pink and white being predominant; some of them, indeed, are entirely covered with arabesque patterns in fresco.  The streets run at right angles, with nearly Philadelphian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I wandered about for some time, looking for the Grand Plaza, and at last fell into the wake of the mass-going crowd, as the surest way to find it.  It is in the very centre of the city, though the business quarter lies almost entirely on the western side.  It is one of the most imposing squares in the world, and still far inferior  to what it might be made.  It covers about fourteen acres, which are entirely open and unbroken, except by a double row of orange-trees in front of the Cathedral.  The splendid equestrian statue of Charles IV. by the sculptor Tolsa, which formerly stood in the centre, has been removed since the war of Independence, and the Government has never been able to replace it by something more to its republican taste.  The National Palace, with a front of five hundred feet, occupies nearly the entire eastern side of the plaza, while the Cathedral, with a church adjoining, fills the northern.  Around the other sides runs a <HI REND="italics">cortal</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The Cathedral is grand and impressive from its very size, but the effect of the front is greatly injured by its incongruous style of architecture.  There seems to have been no single design adopted, but after half had been built, the architect changed his plan and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:finished the remainder in a different style.  The front, as high as the Cathedral roof, has a venerable appearance of age and neglect, while the two massive, square, unadorned towers rising from it, are as brilliantly white and fresh as if erected yesterday.  The front of the church adjoining is embossed with very elaborate ornaments of sculpture, all showing the same disregard of architectural unity.  The interiorof the Cathedral is far more perfect in its structure.  The nave, resting its lofty arch on pillars of a semi-Gothic character, with the gorgeous pile of the high-altar at its extremity, blazing with gold and silver and precious marbles, looks truly sublime in the dim, subdued light which fills it.  The railing around the altar is solid silver, as well as the lamps which burn before it.  In the shrines along the side aisles there are many paintings of fine character, but everywhere the same flash of gold and appearance of lavish treasure.  The Cathedral was crowded to the very door by a throng of rancheros, Indians, stately ladies in silks and jewels, soldiers and <HI REND="italics">lepe&acute;ros</HI>
123.sgm:<P>In the afternoon, there was a great fair or festival at Tacubaya,  and half the population of the city went out to attend it.  The stages in front of the Diligence Hotel, which bore the inscription on their sides: " <HI REND="italics">A Tacubaya, por 2 reales</HI>
123.sgm:," were jammed with passengers.  I preferred a quiet walk in the Alameda to a suffocating ride in the heat and dust, and so did my friend, Peyton.  The Alameda is a charming place, completely shaded by tall trees, and musical with the plash of fountains.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:Through its long avenues of foliage, the gay equipages of the aristocracy may be seen rolling to and from the <HI REND="italics">paseo</HI>
123.sgm: --President Herrera, in a light, open carriage, followed by a guard of honor, among them.  We roamed through the cool, shaded walks, finding sufficient amusement in the curious groups and characters we constantly met until the afternoon shadows grew long and the sun had nearly touched the Nevada of Toluca.  Then, joining the increasing crowd, we followed the string of carriages past a guard house where a company of trumpeters shattered all the surrounding air by incessant prolonged blasts, that nearly tore up the paving-stones.  A beautiful road, planted with trees, and flanked by convenient stone benches, extended beyond for about a mile, having a circle at its further end, around which the carriages passed, and took their stations in the return line.  We sat down on one of the benches facing the ring, enjoying the tranquillity of the sunset and the animation of the scene before us.  The towers of Mexico rose behind us, above the gardens which belt the city; the rock of Chapultepec was just visible in front, and far to the south-east, a snowy glimmer, out of the midst of a pile of clouds, revealed the cone of Popocatapetl.  Among the equipages were some of great magnificence: that of Don Gaetano Rubio was perhaps the most costly.  Large American horses are in great demand for these displays, and a thousand dollars a pair is frequently paid for them.  The mixture of imported vehicles--English, French and American--with the bomb-proof arks and moveable fortifications of the country, was very amusing, though their contrast was not more marked than that of the occupants.  The great ambition of a Mexican family is to ride in a carriage on all public occasions, and there are hundreds who starve themselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I went one evening to the Teatro de Santa Anna, which is one of the finest theatres in the world.  On this occasion, the performance might have honorably stood the ordeal of even Paris criticism.  There was a ballet by the Monplaisir troupe, songs by  the prima donna of the native opera and violin solos by Franz Coenen.  The theatre is very large, having, if I remember rightly, five tiers  of boxes, yet it was crowded in every part.  There was a great display of costly dresses and jewelry, but I saw much less beauty than on the moonlit plaza of Guadalajara.  The tendency of the Mexican women to corpulency very soon destroys the bloom and graces of youth; indeed, their season of beauty is even more brief than in the United States.  Between the acts the spectators invariably fell to smoking.  The gentlemen lit their <HI REND="italics">puros</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The streets of Mexico are always an interesting study.  Even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:after visiting the other large cities of the Republic, one is here introduced to new and interesting types of Mexican humanity.  Faces of the pure Aztec blood are still to be found in the squares and market-places, and the canal which joins Lakes Chalco and Tezcuco is filled with their flat canoes, laden with fruits, vegetables and flowers.  They have degenerated in everything but their hostility to the Spanish race, which is almost as strong as in the days of Montezuma.  The <HI REND="italics">le&acute;peros</HI>
123.sgm: constitute another and still more disgusting class; no part of the city is free from them.  They implore you for alms with bended knees and clasped hands, at every turn; they pick your pockets in broad daylight, or snatch away your cloak if there is a good opportunity; and if it be an object with any one to have you removed from this sphere of being, they will murder you for a small consideration.   The second night I spent in Mexico, my pocket was picked in the act of passing a corner where two or three of them were standing in a group.  I discovered the loss before I had gone ten steps further; but, though I turned immediately, there was no one to be seen.  The <HI REND="italics">aguadores</HI>
123.sgm:, or water-carriers, are another interesting class, as they go about with heavy earthen jars suspended on their backs by a band about the forehead, and another smaller jar swinging in front to balance it, by a band over the top of the head.  The priests, in their black cassocks and shovel hats with brims a yard long, are curious figures; the monasteries in the city send out large numbers of fat and sensual friars, whose conduct even in public is a scandal to the respectable part of the community.  In all the features of its out-door life, Mexico is quite as motley and picturesque as any of the old cities of Spain.  The Republic seems to have in no way changed the ancient order, except by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The scarcity of all antiquities of the Aztec race, will strike travelers who visit the city.  Not one stone of the ancient capital has been left upon another, while, by the gradual recession of the waters of the lakes, the present Mexico, though built precisely on the site of the ancient one, stands on dry ground.  There are frequently inundations, it is true, caused by long-continued rains, which the mountain slopes to the north-east and south-west send into the valley, but the construction of the Desagua--an immense canal connecting Lake Tezcuco with the Rio Montezuma--has greatly lessened the danger.  Of all the temples, palaces, and public edifices of the Aztecs, the only remains are the celebrated Calendar, built into one corner of the cathedral, the Sacrificial Stone and a collection of granite gods in the National Museum.  The Calendar is an immense circular stone, probably ten feet in diameter, containing the divisions of the Aztec year, and the astronomical signs used by that remarkable people.  The remaining antiquities are piled up neglectedly in the court-yard of the Museum, where the stupid natives come to stare at them, awed, yet apparently fascinated by their huge, terrible features.  The Sacrificial Stone is in perfect preservation.  It is like a great mill-stone of some ten or twelve feet diameter, with a hollow in the centre, from which<HSEP>a groove slants to the edge, to carry away the blood of the victim.  Scattered around it on the pavement were idols of all grotesque forms, feathered serpents and hideous combinations of human and animal figures.  The Aztec war-god, Quetzalcoatl, was the hugest and most striking of all.  He was about fourteen feet in height, with four faces, and as many pairs of arms and legs, fronting towards the quarters of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>There are some relics of the Spanish race in this museum, which I should not omit to mention.  In one dusty corner, behind a little wooden railing, are exhibited the coats-of-mail of Cortez and Alvarado.  The great Cortez, to judge from his helmet, breast-plate and cuishes, was a short, broad-chested and powerful man--the very build for daring and endurance.  Alvarado was a little taller and more slight, which may account for his celebrated leap--the measure of which is still shown on a wall near the city, though the ditch is filled up.  In the centre of the court-yard stands the celebrated equestrian statue of Charles IV., by the Mexican sculptor, Tolsa.  It is of bronze, and colossal size.  In the general spirit and forward action of the figures, it is one of the best equestrian statues in the world.  The horse, which was modeled from an Andalusian stallion of pure blood, has been censured.  It differs, in fact, very greatly from the perfect Grecian model, especially in the heavy chest and short round flank; but those who have seen the Andalusian horse consider it a perfect type of that breed.  It is a work in which Mexico may well glory, for any country might be proud to have produced it.</P>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>MEXICAN POLITICS AND POLITICAL MEN.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I SPENT one morning during my stay in Mexico, in visiting both Houses of the Mexican Congress, which were then in session, in the National Palace.  I could not but regret, on approaching this edifice, that so fine an opportunity for architectural effect had been lost through a clumsy and incongruous plan of building.  The front of five hundred feet, had it been raised another story, and its flat pink surface relieved by a few simple pilasters and cornices, would have equaled that of the Pitti Palace or the Royal <HI REND="italics">Residenz</HI>
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123.sgm:<P>Mr. Belden, an American many years resident in Mexico, accompanied me to the Halls of Congress, and pointed out the principal characters present.  We first visited the Senate Chamber--a small elliptical room in the centre of the Palace.  There were no desks except for the Secretaries, the members being seated on a continuous bench, which ran around the room, with a rail in front of it.  Probably two-thirds of the Senators--fifteen or twenty in all--were present.  The best head among them is that of Otero, who, I think, was one of the Cabinet during the war.  He is a large, strongly-built man, with features expressing not only intelligence, but power.  At the end of the room sat Don Luis Cuevas, one of the Commissioners who signed the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo--a man of polished bearing, and, from appearance, something of a <HI REND="italics">diplomat</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The demeanor of the Senate is exceedingly quiet and grave.   The speeches are short, though not, in consequence, always to the point.  On the contrary, I am told that any definite action on any subject is as difficult to be had as in our own Congress.  It is better, however, to do nothing decorously, than after a riotous fashion.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The Hall of Congress fronts on one of the inner courts of the Palace.  It is semi-circular in form, and lighted by windows of blue glass, near the top.  As in the Senate, the members have no desks, but are ranged along two semi-circular benches, the outer one raised a step from the floor.  The Speaker sits on a broad platform, in front of the centre of the chord, with two Secretaries on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The Mexican Congress elects its Speaker monthly.  The incumbent at the time, Portillo, was a young man, who presided with admirable dignity and decorum.  As in the Senate, the members exhibit a grave and courteous demeanor; the etiquette of dignified legislation, I presume, is never violated.  The only notable Representative present was Arrangoiz, whose name is well known in the United States.  I was disappointed in not seeing Alaman, the head of the Monarchist faction, Editor of the <HI REND="italics">Universal</HI>
123.sgm:, and author of an excellent History of Mexico, then in the course of publication.  Two or three short speeches were made during my visit, but I was not sufficiently versed either in the language or politics, to get more than the general drift of them.  Congress appeared to be doing nothing satisfactory; the thinking population (a very small number) were discontented, and with reason.  A short time previous, the Report of the Committee of Finance came up for discussion.  After engaging the House for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:several days, during which many warm speeches were made on both sides, all seemed ready for a decision; when, lo! the members suddenly determined that <HI REND="italics">they had no right to vote upon it</HI>
123.sgm:<P>One o'clock the same afternoon was the hour appointed for the presentation of Mr. Letcher, the new Envoy from the United States.  On coming out of the Senate Chamber we noticed that the corridor leading to the rooms of the President was deserted by the groups of officers in full uniform who had been lounging about the door.  Entering the ante-chamber, we found that Mr. Letcher, with Mr. Walsh, Secretary of Legation, had just passed into the Hall of Audience.  Mr. Belden was well known to all the officers of Government, and his company procured us admission at once.  We took our places among the Secretaries of the different Departments, about half way up the Hall.  Gen. Herrera, the President, was seated on a platform at the end of the room, under a crimson canopy, having on his right hand Lacunza, Minister of Foreign Affairs, and on his left Castan&tilde;eda, Minister of Justice.  The other Ministers, with a number of officers of the General Staff, were ranged at the foot of the platform.  Mr. Letcher had just commenced his address as we entered.  He appeared slightly embarrassed during the first phrases, but soon recovered the proper composure.  I had no doubt, however, that he would have felt much more at home in making a stump speech in his native Kentucky.  His address consisted mainly of expressions of good will on the part of the United States, and a desire for more intimate and amicable relations between the two Governments.  Gen. Herrera, on receiving the letters accrediting Mr. Letcher, replied in a neat speech, cordially responding to the expressions of amity which had been made, and invoking for both nations the same harmony <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>After the interchange of a few compliments, Mr. Letcher took his leave, and immediately afterwards the President rose and left the hall, in company with his Ministers.  He bowed to us in passing, probably recognizing us as Americans.  He is a man of about sixty, of short stature, and with a countenance whose prominent expression is honesty and benevolence.  This corresponds with the popular idea of his character.  He is a man of excellent heart, but lacks energy and determination.  His Government, though quiet and peaceful enough at present, is not sufficiently strong for Mexico.  So long as the several States continue to defy and violate the Federal Compact, a powerful Head is needed to the General Government.  The rule of Herrera met with no open opposition.  At the time of my visit, the country was perfectly quiet.  The insurrection in the Sierra Madre had been entirely quelled, and the ravages of the Indians in Durango and Chihuahua appeared to have subsided for a time.  Nevertheless, the Conservative party, whose tendency is towards a monarchy, was said to be on the increase--a fact no doubt attributable to the influence and abilities of Alaman, its avowed leader.  The name of Santa Anna had been brought forward by his friends, as a candidate for Congress from the district of the Capital, though his success was scarcely a matter of hope.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The Government was still deeply embarrassed by its forced loans, and Congress took the very worst means to settle its difficulty.  A committee, appointed to report some plan of settlement, made the following propositions, which I here give, as a curiosity in legislation:--1.  That the Government be authorized to make an amicable arrangement with its creditors, within the space of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Several of the States had a short time previous been taking singular liberties with the Constitution.  For instance, the Legislatures of Zacatecas, Durango and Jalisco, had separately passed laws regulating the revenue not only on internal commerce, but foreign imports!  The duties on many articles were enormous, as, for instance, in the State of Jalisco, 37 1-2 cents per lb. on tobacco, and 75 cents on snuff.  Zacatecas, with a curious discrimination, imposed a duty of 12 1-2 per cent. on home manufactures, and 5 per cent. on foreign merchandise!  In such a state of things one knows not which most to wonder at, the audacity of the States, or the patient sufferance of the Supreme Government.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I scanned with some curiosity the faces and forms of the chief officers of the Republic as they passed.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Herrera wore the uniform of a general--a more simple costume than that of the other officers present, whose coats were ornamented with red facings and a profusion of gold embroidery.  The Ministers, except Arista, were dressed in plain suits of black.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>While in Mexico, I had the pleasure of meeting with Don Vicente Garcia Torres, the talented editor of the <HI REND="italics">Monitor Republicano</HI>
123.sgm:, as well as with several of the writers for <HI REND="italics">El Siglo Diez y Nueve</HI>
123.sgm:.  To M. Re&acute;ne&acute; Masson, the enterprising editor and proprietor of <HI REND="italics">Le Trait D' Union</HI>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>RIDES TO CHAPULTEPEC AND GUADALUPE.</P>
123.sgm:<P>No American, whatever be his moral creed or political sentiments, should pass through Mexico without a visit to the battle-fields in the Valley, where his country's arms obtained such signal triumphs.  To me they had a more direct, thrilling interest than the remains* of Aztec Empire or the Spanish Viceroyalty.  I was fortunate in seeing them with a companion, to whom every rood of ground was familiar, and who could trace all the operations of Scott's army, from San Augustin to the Grand Plaza in the city.  We started for Chapultepec one fine afternoon, with Mr. Belden, taking his carriage and span of black mules.  We drove first to the Garita de Bele&acute;n, where one of the aqueducts enters the city.  Here a strong barricade was carried after the taking of Chapultepec by Pillow's division, while Worth, following down the line of the other aqueduct, got possession of the Garita de San Cosme&acute;.  The brick arches are chipped with shot, for the whole distance of three miles.  The American troops advanced by springing from arch to arch, being exposed, as they approached the Garita, to a cross-fire from two batteries.  The running battle of the Aqueducts, from Chapultepec to Mexico, a distance of three miles, was a brilliant achievement, and had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>We followed the aqueduct, looking through its arches on the green wheat-fields of the Valley, the shining villages in the distance and sometimes the volcanoes, as the clouds grew thinner about their white summits.  At last, we reached the gate of Chapultepec.  Mr. Belden was known to the officer on guard, and we passed unchallenged into the shade of Montezuma's cypresses.  Chapultepec is a volcanic hill, probably two hundred feet in height, standing isolated on the level floor of the valley.  Around its base is the grove of cypress trees, known as Montezuma's Garden--great, gnarled trunks, which have been formed by the annual rings of a thousand years, bearing aloft a burden of heavy and wide-extending boughs, with venerable beards of gray moss.  The changeless black-green of the foliage, the dull, wintry hue of the moss, and the gloomy shadows which always invest this grove, spoke to me more solemnly of the Past--of ancient empire, now overthrown, ancient splendor, now fallen into dust, and ancient creeds now forgotten and contemned,--than the shattered pillars of the Roman Forum or the violated tombs of Etruria.  I saw them on a shaded, windless day, with faint glimmerings of sunshine between the black and heavy masses of cloud.  The air was so still that not a filament of the long mossy streamers trembled; the trees stood like giant images of bronze around the rocky foot of the hill.  The father of the band, who, like a hoary-headed seneschal, is stationed at the base of the ascending carriage-way, measures forty-five feet in circumference, and there are in the grove several others of dimensions but little inferior.  The first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Leaving our carriage and mules in charge of the old cypress, we climbed the hill on foot.  The zigzag road still retains its embankment of adobes and the small corner-batteries thrown up in anticipation of the attack; the marks of the cannon-balls from Tacubaya and the high ground behind Molino del Rey, are everywhere visible.  The fortress on the summit of Chapultepec has been for many years used as a National Military Academy.  We found a company of the cadets playing ball on a graveled terrace in front of the entrance.  One of them escorted us to the private apartments of the commanding officer, which are built along the edge of a crag, on the side towards Mexico.  Mr. Belden was well acquainted with the officer, but, unfortunately, he was absent.  His wife, however, received us with great courtesy and sent for one of the Lieutenants attached to the Academy.  A splendid Munich telescope was brought from the observatory, and we adjourned to the balcony for a view of the Valley of Mexico.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I wish there was a perspective in words--something beyond the mere suggestiveness of sound--some truer representative of color, and light, and grand aerial distance; for I scarcely know how else to paint the world-wide panorama spread around me.  Chapultepec, as I have said before, stands isolated in the centre of the Valley.  The mountains of Toluca approach to within fifteen miles beyond Tacubaya, and the island-like hills of Guadalupe are not very distant, on the opposite side; but in nearly every other direction the valley fades away for fifty or sixty miles before striking the foot of the mountains.  The forms of the chains which wall in this little world are made irregular and wonderfully picturesque by the embaying curves of the Valley--now receding far and faint, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>We overlooked all the battle-grounds of the Valley, but I felt a hesitancy at first in asking the Lieutenant to point out the localities.  Mr. Belden at length asked whether we could see the height of Padierna, or the <HI REND="italics">pedregal</HI>
123.sgm: (field of lava) which lies to the left of it.  The officer immediately understood our wish, and turning the glass first upon the Pen&tilde;on Grande, (an isolated hill near Ayotla,) traced the march of Gen. Scott's army around Lake Chalco to the town of San Augustin, near which the first hostilities commenced.  We could see but a portion of the field of Padierna, more familiarly known as Contreras.  It lies on the lower slopes of the Nevada of Toluca, and overlooking the scenes of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:subsequent actions.  The country is rough and broken, and the crossing of the famed <HI REND="italics">pedregal</HI>
123.sgm:, from the far glimpse I had of the ground, must have been a work of great labor and peril.  Nearly east of this, on the dead level of the valley, is the memorable field of Churubusco.  The <HI REND="italics">te&circ;te de pont</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Beyond Tacubaya, we saw the houses of Miscoac, where the army was stationed for some time before it advanced to the former place.  Gen. Scott's head-quarters was in the Bishop's Palace at Tacubaya, which is distinctly seen from Chapultepec and within actual reach of its guns.  On an upland slope north of the village and towards Tacuba the shattered walls of the Casa Mata were pointed out.  Near at hand--almost at the very base of the hill--rose the white gable of Molino del Rey.  The march of the attacking lines could be as distinctly traced as on a map.  How Chapultepec, which commands every step of the way, could be stormed and carried with such a small force, seems almost miraculous.  Persons who witnessed the affair from Tacubaya told me that the yells of the American troops as they ascended the hill in the face of a deadly hail of grape-shot, were absolutely terrific; when they reached the top the Mexicans seemed to lose all thought of further defence, pouring in bewildered masses out of the doors and windows nearest the city, and tumbling like a torrent of water down the steep rocks.  The Lieutenant, who was in Chapultepec at the time, said that one thousand and fifty bombs fell on the fortress before the assault; the main tower, the battlements and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>I do not believe, however, that Mexican enmity to the United States has been increased by the war, but rather the contrary.  During all my stay in the country I never heard a bitter word said against us.  The officers of our army seem to have made friends everywhere, and the war, by throwing the natives into direct contact with foreigners, has greatly abated their former prejudice against all not of Spanish blood.  The departure of our troops was a cause of general lamentation among the tradesmen of Mexico and Vera Cruz.  Nothing was more common to me than to hear Generals Scott and Taylor mentioned by the Mexicans in terms of entire respect and admiration.  "If you should see General Taylor," said a very intelligent gentleman to me, "tell him that the Mexicans all honor him.  He has never given up their houses to plunder; he has helped their wounded and suffering; he is as humane as he is brave, and they can never feel enmity towards him."  It may be that this generous forgetfulness of injury argues a want of earnest patriotism, but it was therefore none the less grateful to me as an American.</P>
123.sgm:<P>We took leave of our kind guide and descended the hill.  It was now after sunset; we drove rapidly through the darkening cypresses and across a little meadow to the wall of Molino del Rey.  A guard admitted us into the courtyard, on one side of which loomed the tall structure of the mill; the other sides were flanked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>It was by this time so dark that we returned to the city by the route we came, instead of taking the other aqueduct and following the line of Gen. Worth's advance to the Garita of San Cosme&acute;.  Landing at Mr. Belden's residence, the Hotel de Bazar, we went into the Cafe&acute; adjoining, sat down by a marble table under the ever-blooming trees of the court-yard, and enjoyed a <HI REND="italics">chirimoya</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Mr. Peyton and myself procured a pair of spirited mustangs and one morning rode out to the village of Guadalupe, three miles on the road to Tampico.  It was a bright, hot day, and Iztaccihuatl flaunted its naked snows in the sun.  The road was crowded with arrieros and rancheros, on their way to and from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>After a week in Mexico, I prepared to leave for Vera Cruz, to meet the British steamer of the 16th of February.  The seats in the diligence had all been engaged for ten days previous, and I was obliged to take a place in the <HI REND="italics">pescante</HI>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>THE BASE OF POPOCATAPETL.</P>
123.sgm:<P>WHEN we were called up by the mozo, at four o'clock, the air was dark, damp and chilly: not a star was to be seen.  The travelers who gathered to take their chocolate in the dining-hall wore heavy cloaks or sarapes thrown over the shoulder and covering the mouth.  Among them was my companion from Guanajuato, Don Antonio de Campos.  I climbed to my seat in the <HI REND="italics">pescante</HI>
123.sgm:, above the driver and groom, and waited the order to start.  At last the inside was packed, the luggage lashed on behind, and the harness examined by lanterns, to see that it was properly adjusted.  " <HI REND="italics">Vamos</HI>
123.sgm:<P>A chill fog hung over all the valley.  The air was benumbing, and I found two coats insufficient to preserve warmth.  There are no gardens and fields of maguey on this side of the city, as on that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Slowly toiling up the ascent, we changed horses at a large hacienda, built on one of the steps of the mountains, whence, looking backward, the view of the valley was charming.  The Pen&tilde;on stood in front; southward, towards Ameca and Tenango, stetched a great plain, belted with green wheat-fields and dotted with the white towers of villages.  The waters of Chalco were at our feet, and northward, through a gap in the hills, the broad sheet of Lake Tezcuco flashed in the sun.  But it was not till we had climbed high among the pine forests and looked out from under the eaves of the clouds, that I fully realized the grandeur of this celebrated view.  The vision seemed to embrace a world at one glance.  The Valley of Mexico, nearly one hundred miles in extent, lay below, its mountain-walls buried in the clouds which hung like a curtain above the immense picture.  But through a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The clouds rolled around us as I gazed, and the cold wind blew drearily among the pines.  Our escort, now increased to twelve lancers, shortened their ascent by taking the mule paths.  They looked rather picturesque, climbing in single file through the forest; their long blue cloaks hanging on their horses' flanks and their red pennons fluttering in the mist.  The rugged defiles through which our road lay, are the most famous resort for robbers in all Mexico.  For miles we passed through one continued ambush, where frequent crosses among the rocks hinted dark stories of assault and death.  Our valorous lancers lagged behind, wherever the rocks were highest and the pines most thickly set;  I should not have counted a single moment on their assistance, had we been attacked.  I think I enjoyed the wild scenery of the pass more, from its perils.  The ominous gloom of the day and the sound of the wind as it swept the trailing clouds through the woods of pine, heightened this feeling to something like a positive enjoyment.</P>
123.sgm:<P>When we reached the inn of Rio Frio, a little below the summit of the pass, on its eastern side, our greatest danger was over.  Breakfast was on the table, and the eggs, rice, guisados and frijoles speedily disappeared before our sharp-set appetites.  Luckily for our hunger, the diligence from Puebla had not arrived.  The little valley of Rio Frio is hedged in by high, piny peaks, somewhat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The table-land on which we entered, descends, with a barely perceptible slant, to Puebla--a distance of forty miles.  Its surface, fenceless, and almost boundless to the eye, is covered with wheat and maize.  Fine roads cross it; and the white walls of haciendas, half-buried in the foliage of their gardens, dot it, at intervals, to the feet of the distant mountains.  The driver, and intelligent Mexican, pointed out to me the various points of interest, as we passed along.  He professed to speak a little English, too, which he said he had picked up from passengers on the road; but as all his English amounted only to a choice vocabulary of oaths, it told badly for the character of his passengers.</P>
123.sgm:<P>All afternoon the clouds covered the summits of the volcanoes, and stretching like a roof across the table-land, rested on the broad shoulders of Malinche.  As the sun descended, they lifted a little, and I could see the sides of Popocatapetl as far as the limit of the snow; but his head was still hooded.  At last, through a break just above the pinnacle of his cone, the light poured in a full blaze, silvering the inner edges of the clouds with a sudden and splendid lustre.  The snowy apex of the mountain, bathed in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The most imposing view of Popocatapetl is from the side towards Puebla.  It is not seen, as from the valley of Mexico, over the rims of intermediate mountains, but the cone widens downward with an unbroken outline, till it strikes the smooth tableland.  On the right, but separated by a deep gap in the range, is the broad, irregular summit of Iztaccihuatl, gleaming with snow.  The signification of the name is the "White Lady," given by the Aztecs on account of a fancied resemblance in its outline to the figure of a reclining female.  The mountain of Malinche, opposite to the volcanoes, almost rivals them in majestic appearance.  It rises from a base of thirty miles in breadth, to a height of about thirteen thousand feet.  I gazed long upon its cloudy top and wooded waist, which the sun belted with a beam of gold, for on its opposite side, on the banks of a river which we crossed just before reaching Puebla, stands the ancient city of Tlascala.  The name of the volcano Malinche, is an Aztec corruption of Mariana, the Indian wife of Cortez.  I could not look upon it without an ardent desire to stand on its sides, and with Bernal Diaz in hand, trace out the extent of the territory once possessed by his brave and magnanimous allies.</P>
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123.sgm:<P>On the other hand, between me and the sunset, stood a still more interesting memorial of the Aztec power.  There, in full view, its giant terraces clearly defined against the sky, the top-most one crowned with cypress, loomed the Pyramid of Cholula!  The lines of this immense work are for the most part distinctly cut; on the eastern side, only, they are slightly interrupted by vegetation, and probably the spoliation of the structure.  Although several miles distant, and rising from the level of the plain, without the advantage of natural elevation, the size of the pyramid astonished me.  It seems an abrupt hill, equal in height and imposing form to the long range in front of it, or the dark hill of Tlaloc behind.  Even with Popocatapetl for a back-ground, its effect does not diminish.  The Spaniards, with all their waste of gold on heavy cathedrals and prison-like palaces, have never equaled this relic of the barbaric empire they overthrew.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I do not know whether the resemblance between the outline of this pyramid and that of the land of Mexico, from sea to sea, has been remarked.  It is certainly no forced similitude.  There is the foundation terrace of the Tierra Caliente; the steep ascent to the second broad terrace of the table-land; and again, the succeeding ascent to the lofty, narrow plateau dividing the waters of the continent.  If we grant that the forms of the pyramid, the dome, the pillar and the arch, have their antitypes in Nature, it is no fanciful speculation to suppose that the Aztecs, with that breadth of imagination common to intelligent barbarism, made <HI REND="italics">their world</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Cholula vanished in the dusk, as we crossed the river of Tlascala and entered the shallow basin in which stands Puebla.  The many towers of its churches and convents showed picturesquely in the twilight.  The streets were filled with gay crowds <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>After the final dish of frijoles had been dispatched, I made a short night-stroll through the city.  The wind was blowing strong and cold from the mountains, whistling under the arches of the cortal and flaring the red torches that burned in the market-place.  The fruit-sellers, nevertheless, kept at their posts, exchanging jokes occasionally with a masked figure in some nondescript costume.  I found shelter from the wind, at last, in a grand old church, near the plaza.  The interior was brilliantly lighted, and the floor covered by kneeling figures.  There was nothing in the church itself, except its vastness and dimness, to interest me; but the choral music I there heard was not to be described.  A choir of boys, alternating with one of rich masculine voices, overran the full peal of the organ, and filled the aisle with delicious harmony.  There was a single voice, which seemed to come out of the air, in the pauses of the choral, and send its clear, trumpet-tones directly to the heart.  As long as the exercises continued, I stood by the door, completely chained by those divine sounds.  The incense finally faded; the tapers were put out one by one; the worshippers arose, took another dip in the basin of holy water, and retired; and I, too, went back to the hotel, and tried to keep warm under cover of a single sarape.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The manufactures of Puebla are becoming important to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>GLIMPSES OF PURGATORY AND PARADISE.</P>
123.sgm:<P>RISING before three o'clock is no pleasant thing, on the high table-land of Puebla, especially when one has to face the cold from the foretop of a diligence; but I contrived to cheat the early travel of its annoyance, by looking backward to Popocatapetl, which rose cold and unclouded in the morning twilight.  We sped over fertile plains, past the foot of Malinche, and met the sunrise at the town of Amozoque, another noted robber-hold.  In the arroyos which cross the road at its eastern gate a fight took place between the advanced guard of the American army and a body of Mexican soldiers, on the march to the capital.</P>
123.sgm:<P>From Amozoque the plain ascends, with a scarcely perceptible rise, to the summit of the dividing ridge, beyond Perote.  The clouds, which had gathered again by this time, hid from our view the mountain  barriers of the table-land, to the east and west.  The second post brought us to Acajete, whose white dome and towers we saw long before reaching it, projected brightly against the pines of a steep mountain behind.  One is only allowed time at the posts to stretch his legs and light a cigar.  The horses--or mules, as the case may be--are always in readiness, and woe to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The insular mountain of Acajete shelters a gang of robbers among its ravines, and the road, bending to the left around its base, is hedged with ambush of the most convenient kind.  The driver pointed out to me a spot in the thicket where one of the gang was shot not long before.  Half-way up the acclivity, a thread of blue smoke rose through the trees, apparently from some hut or camp on a little shelf at the foot of a precipice.  Further than this, we saw nothing which seemed to denote their propinquity.  The pass was cleared, the horses changed at El Pinal--a large hacienda on the north side of the mountain--and we dashed on till nearly noon, when the spires of Nopaluca appeared behind a distant hill--the welcome heralds of breakfast!</P>
123.sgm:<P>Beyond this point, where a trail branches off to Orizaba, the character of the scenery is entirely changed.  We saw no longer the green wheat-plains and stately haciendas of Puebla.  The road passed over an immense llano, covered with short, brown grass, and swept by a furious wind.  To the north, occasional peaks--barren, rocky and desolate in their appearance,--rose at a short distance from our path.  On the other hand, the llano stretched away for many a league, forming a horizon to the eye before it reached the foot of the mountains.  The wind frequently increased to such a pitch that all trace of the landscape was lost.  Columns of dust, rising side by side from the plain, mingled as they whirled along, shrouding us as completely as a Newfoundland fog.  The sun was at times totally darkened.  My eyes, which were strongly blood-shotten, from too much gazing at the snows of Popocatapetl, were severely affected by this hurricane.  But there is no evil without some accompanying good; and the same wind <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Beyond La Venta de Soto, the road skirts a striking peak of rock, whose outline is nearly that of an exact pyramid, several thousand feet in height.  The mozo called it Monte Pizarro.  From its dark ravines the robbers frequently sally, to attack travelers on the plain.  At some distance from the road, I noticed a mounted guard who followed us till relieved by another, planted at short intervals.  As the sunset came on, we reached a savage volcanic region, where the only vegetation scattered over the ridgy beds of black lava, was the yucca and the bristly cactus.  There were no inhabitants; some huts, here and there, stood in ruins; and the solitary guard, moving like a shadow over the lava hills, only added to the loneliness and increased the impression of danger.  I have seen many wild and bleak spots, but none so absolutely Tartarean in its aspect.  There was no softer transition of scene to break the feeling it occasioned, for the nightfall deepened as we advanced, leaving everything in dusky shadow, but the vast bulk of Cofre de Perote, which loomed between me and the southern stars.  At last, lights glimmered ahead; we passed down a street lined with miserable houses, across a narrow and dirty plaza, and into a cramped court-yard.  The worst dinner we ate on the whole journey was being prepared in the most cheerless of rooms  This was Perote.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I went out to walk after dinner, but did not go far.  The squalid  look of the houses, and the villanous expression of the faces, seen by the light of a few starving lamps, offered nothing attractive, and the wind by this time was more piercing than ever.  Perote bears a bad reputation in every respect: its situation is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>About sunrise we reached the summit of the pass, and commenced descending through scattering pine woods.  The declivity was at first gradual, but when we had passed the bevelled slope of the summit ridge, our road lay along the very brink of the mountains overlooking everything that lay between them and the Gulf of Mexico.  Immediately north of the pass, the mountain chain turns eastward, running towards the Gulf in parallel ridges, on the summits of which we looked down.  The beds of the valleys, wild, broken, and buried in a wilderness but little visited, were lost in the dense air, which filled them like a vapor.  Beginning at the region of lava and stunted pine, the eye travels downward, from summit to summit of the ranges, catching, at intervals, glimpses of gardens, green fields of grain, orange orchards, groves of palm and gleaming towers, till at last it rests on the far-away glimmer of the sea, under the morning sun.  Fancy yourself riding along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>The road was broad and smooth, and our mules whirled us downward on a rapid gallop.  In half an hour from the time when around us the hoar-frost was lying on black ridges of lava and whitening the tips of the pine branches, we saw the orange and banana, basking in the glow of a region where frost was unknown.  We were now on the borders of paradise.  The streams, leaping down crystal-clear from the snows of Cofre de Perote, fretted their way through tangles of roses and blossoming vines; the turf had a sheen like that of a new-cut emerald; the mould, upturned for garden land, showed a velvety richness and softness, and the palm, that true child of light, lifted its slender shaft and spread its majestic leaves against the serene blue of heaven.  As we came out of the deep-sunken valleys on the brow of a ridge facing the south, there stood, distinct and shadowless from base to apex, the Mountain of Orizaba.  It rose beyond mountains so far off that all trace of chasm or ledge or belting forest was folded in a veil of blue air, yet its grand, immaculate cone, of perfect outline, was so white, so dazzling, so pure in its frozen clearness, like that of an Arctic morn, that the eye lost its sense of the airy gulf between, and it seemed that I might stretch out my hand and touch it.  No peak among mountains can be more sublime than Orizaba.  Rising from the level of the sea and the perpetual summer of the tropics, with an unbroken line to the height of eighteen thousand feet, it stands singly above the other ranges with its spotless crown of snow, as some giant, white-haired <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>After two leagues of this enchanting travel we came to Jalapa, a city of about twenty thousand inhabitants, on the slope of the hills, half-way between the sea and the table-land, overlooking the one and dominated by the other.  The streets are as clean as a Dutch cottage; the one-story, tiled houses, sparkling in the sun, are buried in gardens that rival the Hesperides.  Two miles before reaching the town the odor of its orange blossoms filled the air.  We descended its streets to the Diligence Hotel, at the bottom, where, on arriving, we found there would be no stage to Vera Cruz for two days, so we gave ourselves up to the full enjoyment of the spot.  My fellow-passenger for Guanajuato, Don Antonio de Campos, and myself, climbed into the tower of the hotel, and sat down under its roof to enjoy the look-out.  The whole landscape was like a garden.  For leagues around the town it was one constant alternation of field, grove and garden--the fields of the freshest green, the groves white with blossoms and ringing with the songs of birds, and the gardens loading the air with delicious perfume.  Stately haciendas were perched on the vernal slopes, and in the fields; on the roads and winding mule-paths of the hills we saw everywhere a gay and light-hearted people.  We passed the whole afternoon in the tower; the time went by like a single pulsation of delight.  I felt, then, that there could be no greater happyness than in thus living forever, without a single thought beyond the enjoyment of the scene.  My friend, Don Antonio, was busy with old memories.  Twenty years before, he came through Jalapa for the first time, an ardent, aspiring youth, thinking to achieve his fortune in three or four years and return with it to his native <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>After dinner, all our fellow-travelers set out for the Alameda, which lies in a little valley at the foot of the town.  A broad paved walk, with benches of stone at the side and stone urns on lofty pedestals at short intervals, leads to a bridge over a deep chasm, where the little river plunges through a mesh of vines into a large basin below.  Beyond this bridge, a dozen foot-paths lead off to the groves and shaded glens, the haciendas and orange orchards.  The idlers of the town strolled back and forth, enjoying the long twilight and balmy air.  We were all in the most joyous mood, and my fellow-passengers of three of four different nations expressed their delight in as many tongues, with an amusing contrast of exclamations: " <HI REND="italics">Ah, que joli petit pays de Jalape</HI>
123.sgm:!" cried the little Frenchwoman, who had talked in a steady stream since leaving Mexico, notwithstanding she was going to France on account of delicate lungs.  " <HI REND="italics">Siente uste&acute; el aroma de las naranjas</HI>
123.sgm:?" asked a dark-eyed Andalusian.  " <HI REND="italics">Himmlische Luft</HI>
123.sgm:<P>When we awoke the next morning it was raining, and continued to rain all day--not a slow, dreary drizzle, nor a torrent of heavy drops, as rain comes to us, but a fine, ethereal, gauzy veil of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:moisture that scarcely stirred the grass on which it fell or shook the light golden pollen from the orange flowers.  Every two or three days such a shower comes down on the soil of Jalapa-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"a perpetual April to the ground,<LB>Making it all one emerald."</HI>
123.sgm:<P>We could not stroll among the gardens or sit under the urns of the Alameda, but the towers and balconies were left us; the landscape, though faint and blurred by the filmy rain, was nearly as beautiful, and the perfume could not be washed out of the air.  So passed the day, and with the night we betook ourselves early to rest, for the Diligence was to leave at three o'clock on the morrow.</P>
123.sgm:<P>For two leagues after leaving Jalapa I smelt the orange blossoms in the starry morning, but when daylight glimmered on the distant Gulf, we were riding between bleak hills, covered with chapparal, having descended to the barren heats of the tropical winter, beyond the line of the mountain-gathered showers.  The road was rough and toilsome, but our driver, an intelligent American, knew every stone and rut in the dark and managed his eight mules with an address and calculation which seemed to me marvellous.  He had been on the road six years, at a salary of $150 per month, from the savings of which he had purchased a handsome little property in Jalapa.  Don Juan, as the natives called him, was a great favorite along the road, which his sturdy, upright character well deserved.  At sunrise we reached the hacienda of El Encero, belonging to Santa Anna, as do most of the other haciendas between Jalapa and Vera Cruz.  The hill of Cerro Gordo appeared before us, and a drive of an hour brought us to the cluster of cane-huts bearing the same name.</P>
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123.sgm:<P>The physical features of the field of Cerro Gordo are very interesting.  It is a double peak, rising from the midst of rough, rolling hills, covered with a dense thicket of cactus and thorny shrubs.  Towards Vera Cruz it is protected by deep barrancas and passes, which in proper hands might be made impregnable.  Had Gen.  Scott attempted to take it by advancing up the broad highway, he must inevitably have lost the battle; but by cutting a road through the chapparal with great labor, making a circuit of several miles, he reached the north-eastern slope of the hill--the most accessible point, and according to the Mexican story, the side least defended.  Having gained one of the peaks of the hill, the charge was made down the side and up the opposite steep in the face of the Mexican batteries.  The steady march of our forces under this deadly hail, to the inspirting blast of the Northern bugles, has been described to me by officers who took part in the fight, as the most magnificent spectacle of the war.  After taking the battery, the guns were turned upon the Mexicans, who were flying through the chapparal in all directions.  Many, overcome by terror, leaped from the brink of the barranca at the foot of the hill and were crushed to death in the fall.  Santa Anna, who escaped at this place, was taken down by a path known to some of the officers.  The chapparal is still strewn thickly with bleached bones, principally of the mules and horses who were attached to the ammunition wagons of the enemy.  The driver told me that until recently there were plenty of cannon-balls lying beside the road, but that every American, English or French traveler took one as a relic, till there were no more to be seen.  A shallow cave beside the road was pointed out as the spot where the Mexicans hid their ammunition.  It was not discovered by our troops, but a Mexican who knew the secret, sold it to them out of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>A few miles beyond Cerro Gordo we reached Plan del Rio, a small village of cane huts, which was burned down by order of Santa Anna, on the approach of the American forces.  A splendid stone bridge across the river was afterwards blown up by the guerillas, in the foolish idea that they would stop an American specie-train, coming from Vera Cruz.  In half a day after the train arrived there was an excellent road across the chasm, and the Mexicans use it to this day, for the shattered arch has never been rebuilt.  From Plan del Rio to the Puente Nacional is about three leagues, through the same waste of cactus and chapparal.  The latter place, the scene of many a brush with the guerillas during the war, is in a very wild and picturesque glen, through which the river forces its way to the sea.  The bridge is one of the most magnificent structures of the kind on the continent.  On a little knoll, at the end towards Jalapa, stands a stately hacienda belonging to Santa Anna.</P>
123.sgm:<P>We sped on through the dreary chapparal, now sprinkled with palms and blossoming trees.  The country is naturally rich and productive, but is little better than a desert.  The only inhabitants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>At sunset we drove out on the broad sands bordering the Gulf.  A chill norther was blowing, and the waves thundered over the coral reefs with a wintry sound.  Vera Cruz sat on the bleak shore, a league before us, her domes and spires painted on the gloomy sky.  The white walls of San Juan d'Ulloa rose from the water beyond the shipping.  Not a tree or green thing was to be seen for miles around the city, which looked as completely desolate as if built in the middle of Zahara.  Nevertheless, I blessed the sight of it, and felt a degree of joy as I passed within its gates, for the long journey of twelve hundred miles across the Continent was safely accomplished.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
123.sgm:<P>VERA CRUZ AND SAN JUAN D'ULLOA--HOMEWARD.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I CANNOT say much of Vera Cruz.  A town built and sustained by commerce alone, and that not the most flourishing, presents few points of interest to the traveler.  Its physiognomy differs but little from that of the other Mexican cities I have described.  There is the Plaza, flanked by the Cathedral,--the same pink mass of old Spanish architecture, picturesque only for its associations--the Diligence Hotel, with its arched corridor forming a <HI REND="italics">cortal</HI>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>On reaching Vera Cruz, there were no tidings of the steamer, which was due on the 4th.  The U.S. schooner Flirt, Capt. Farren, was in port waiting for a norther to go down, to sail for New Orleans, but there was small chance of passage on board of her.  On the morning of the 15th, the U.S. steamer Water-witch, Capt. Totten, made her appearance, bound homeward after a cruise to Havana, Sisal, Campeachy and Laguna.  I had almost determined, in default of any other opportunity, to take passage in her, as a "distressed citizen," when, on rowing out to the Castle of San Juan d'Ulloa on the third morning, one of the boatmen descried a faint thread of smoke on the horizon.  " <HI REND="italics">El vapor!</HI>
123.sgm:<P>My friend Don Antonio was acquainted with the Commandante of the Castle, Don Manuel Robles, by which means we obtained free admission within its coral walls.  It is a place of immense strength, and in the hands of men who know how to defend it, need no more be taken than Gibraltar.  We climbed to the top of the tower, walked around the parapets, shouted into the echoing wells sunk deep in the rock, and examined its gigantic walls.  The spongy coral of which it is built receives the shot and shells that have been thrown upon it, without splintering; here and there we noticed holes where they had imbedded themselves in it, rather adding to its solidity.  We sat two or three hours in the tower, watching the approaching smoke of the steamer.  As the chimes rang noon in Vera Cruz, a terrific blast of trumpets pealed through the courtyard of the Castle, below us.  The yellow-faced soldiers, in their white shirts and straw hats with the word "Ulua" upon them, mustered along one side, and after a brief drill, had their dinner of rice, frijoles and coffee served to them.  The force in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>The most interesting object in Vera Cruz is an old church, in the southern part of the city, which was built by Cortez, in 1531--the oldest Christian church in the New World.  Some miles distant is the old town of Vera Cruz, which was abandoned for the present site.  I had not time to visit it, nor the traces of the Americans among the sand-hills encircling the city.  One Sunday evening, however, I visited the <HI REND="italics">paseo</HI>
123.sgm:<P>We left Vera Cruz on the morning of February 19th, and reached Tampico Bar after a run of twenty-two hours.  The surf was so high after the recent norther, that we were obliged to wait three days before the little river-steamer could come to us with her million of dollars.  The Thames, however, was so spacious and pleasant a ship, that we were hardly annoyed by the delay.  Coming from semi-civilized Mexico, the sight of English order and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>Leaving the same afternoon, I passed two days on the beautiful Alabama River; was whirled in the cars from Montgomery to Opelika, and jolted twenty-four hours in a shabby stage, over the hills of Georgia, to the station of Griffin, on the Central Railroad; sped away through Atlanta and Augusta to Charleston; tossed a night on the Atlantic, crossed the pine-barrens of Carolina and the impoverished fields of the Old Dominion; halted a day at Washington to deliver dispatches from Mexico, a day at HOME, in Pennsylvania, and finally reached my old working-desk in the Tribune Office on the night of March 10th--just eight months and eight days from the time of my departure.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Thus closed a journey more novel and adventurous than any I hope to make again.  I trust the profit of it has not been wholly mine, but that the reader who has followed me through the foregoing pages, may find some things in them, which to have read were not also to have forgotten.</P>
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123.sgm:<BACK><DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.</HEAD>
123.sgm:  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>APPENDIX<LB>REPORT OF HON. T. BUTLER KING.<LB><HSEP>WASHINGTON, March 22, 1850.</P>
123.sgm:<P>SIR: In obedience to your instructions, dated the 3d of April last, I proceeded to California by way of the Isthmus of Panama, and arrived at San Francisco on the 4th day of June.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The steamer in which I took passage was the first conveyance that reached California with intelligence of the inauguration of President Taylor and the appointment of his Cabinet, and that Congress had failed to aid the Executive in providing a government for the people of that Territory.  The greatest anxiety was naturally felt and manifested to ascertain the cause of this neglect on the part of the Government of the United States, and what steps duty to themselves required them to take, in the painful and embarrassing position in which they were placed, for their protection and welfare.</P>
123.sgm:<P>A brief sketch of their condition will explain the cause of this anxiety.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The discovery of the gold mines had attracted a very large number of citizens of the United States to that Territory, who had never been accustomed to any other than American law, administered by America courts.  There they found their rights of property and person subject to the uncertain, and frequently most oppressive, operation of laws written in a language they did not understand, and founded on principles, in many respects, new to them.  They complained that the alcaldes, or judges, most of whom had been appointed or elected before the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>As our own laws, except for the collection of Revenue, the transmission of the mails, and establishment of post offices, had not been extended over that Territory, the laws of Mexico, as they existed at the conclusion of the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, regulating the relations of the inhabitants of California with each other, necessarily remained in force;<ANCHOR ID="nA-1">*</ANCHOR>
123.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nA-1">See American Insurance Company et al.  <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The magistrates, therefore, could not procure them, and the administration of justice was, necessarily, as unequal and fluctuating as the opinions of the judges were conflicting and variable.</P>
123.sgm:<P>There were no fee bills to regulate costs, and, consequently, the most cruel exactions, in many instances, were practised.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The greatest confusion prevailed respecting titles to property, and the decision of suits, involving the most important rights, and very large sums of money depended upon the dictum of the judge.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The sale of the Territory by Mexico to the United States had necessarily cut off or dissolved the laws regulating the granting or procuring titles to land; and, as our own land laws had not been extended over it, the people were compelled to receive such titles as were offered to them, without the means of ascertaining whether they were valid or not.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Litigation was so expensive and precarious, that injustice and oppression were frequently endured, rather than resort to so uncertain a remedy.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Towns and cities were springing into existence--many of them without charters or any legal right to organize municipal authorities, or to tax property or the citizens for the establishment of a police, the erection of prisons, or providing any of those means for the protection of life and property which are so necessary in all civil communities, and especially among a people mostly strangers to each other.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>Nearly one million and a half of dollars had been paid into the Custom Houses, as duties on imported goods, before our revenue laws had been extended over the country; and the people complained bitterly that they were thus heavily taxed without being provided with a Government for their protection, or laws which they could understand, or allowed the right to be represented in the councils of the nation.</P>
123.sgm:<P>While anxiously waiting the action of Congress, oppressed and embarrassed by this state of affairs and feeling the pressing necessity of applying such remedies as were in their power and circumstances seemed to justify, they resolved to substitute laws of their own for the existing system, and to establish tribunals for their proper and faithful administration.</P>
123.sgm:<P>In obedience, therefore, to the extraordinary exigencies of their condition, the people of the city of San Francisco elected members to form a legislature, and clothed them with full powers to pass laws.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The communities of Sonoma and of Sacramento City followed the example.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Thus were three legislative bodies organized; the two most distant being only one hundred and thirty miles apart.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Other movements of the kind were threatened, and doubtless would have been followed in other sections of the Territory, had they not been arrested by the formation of a State Government.</P>
123.sgm:<P>While the people of California were looking to Congress for a Territorial Government, it was quite evident that such an organization was daily becoming less suited to their condition, which was entirely different from that of any of the Territories out of which the new States of the Union had been formed.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Those Territories had been at first slowly and sparsely peopled by a few hunters and farmers, who penetrated the wilderness, or traversed the prairies in search of game or a new home; and, when thus gradually their population warranted it, a government was provided for them.  They, however, had no foreign commerce, nor anything beyond the ordinary pursuits of agriculture and the various branches of business which usually accompany it, to induce immigration within their borders.  Several years were required to give them sufficient population and wealth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>Not so with California.  The discovery of the vast metallic and mineral wealth in her mountains had already attracted to her, in the space of twelve months, more than one hundred thousand people; an extensive commerce had sprung up with China, the ports of Mexico on the Pacific, Chili, and Australia.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Hundreds of vessels from the Atlantic ports of the Union, freighted with our manufactures and agricultural products, and filled with our fellow citizens, had arrived, or were on their passage round Cape Horn; so that in the month of June last there were more than three hundred sea-going vessels in the port of San Francisco.</P>
123.sgm:<P>California has a border on the Pacific of ten degrees of latitude, and several important harbors which have never been surveyed; nor is there a buoy, a beacon, a light-house, or a fortification, on the whole coast.</P>
123.sgm:<P>There are no docks for the repair of national or mercantile vessels nearer than New York, a distance of some twenty thousand miles round Cape Horn.</P>
123.sgm:<P>All these things, together with the proper regulations of the gold region, the quicksilver mines, the survey and disposition of the public lands, the adjustment of land titles, the establishment of a mint and of marine hospitals, required the immediate formation of a more perfect Civil Government than California then had, and the fostering care of Congress and the Executive.</P>
123.sgm:<P>California had, as it were by magic, become a State of great wealth and power.  One short year had given her a commercial importance but little inferior to that of the most powerful of the old States.  She had passed her minority at a single bound, and might justly be regarded as fully entitled to take her place as an equal among her sisters of the Union.</P>
123.sgm:<P>When, therefore, the reality became known to the people of that Territory that the government had done nothing to relieve them from the evils and embarrassments under which they were suffering, and seeing no probability of any change on the subject which divided Congress, they adopted, with most unexampled unanimity and promptitude, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>They were induced to take this step not only for the reason that it promised the most speedy remedy for present difficulties, but because the great and rapidly growing interests of the Territory demanded it; and all reflecting men saw, at a glance, that it ought not to be any longer, and could not under any circumstances, be much longer postponed.</P>
123.sgm:<P>They not only considered themselves best qualified, but that they had the right to decide, as far as they were concerned, the embarrassing question which was shaking the Union to its centre, and had thus far deprived them of a regularly organized civil government.  They believed that, in forming a constitution they had a right to establish or prohibit slavery, and that in their action as a State, they would be sustained by the North and the South.</P>
123.sgm:<P>They were not unmindful of the fact, that while Northern statesmen had contended that Congress has power to prohibit slavery in the Territories they had always admitted that the States of the Union had the right to abolish or establish it at pleasure.</P>
123.sgm:<P>On the other hand, Southern statesmen had almost unanimously contended that Congress has not the constitutional power to <HI REND="italics">prohibit</HI>
123.sgm: slavery in the Territories, because they have not the power to <HI REND="italics">establish</HI>
123.sgm:<P>This is the doctrine put forth by Mr. Calhoun in his celebrated resolutions of 1847, introduced into the Senate of the United States, among which is the following:</P>
123.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
123.sgm:, That it is a fundamental principle in our political creed, that a people in forming a constitution have the unconditional right to form and adopt the government which they may think best calculated to secure their liberty, prosperity and happiness; and, in conformity thereto, no other condition is imposed by the Federal Constitution on a State, in order to be admitted into this Union, except that its constitution shall be `Republican;' and that the imposition of any other by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>President Polk, in his annual message, dated 5th December, 1848, uses the following language:</P>
123.sgm:<P>"The question is believed to be rather abstract than practical, whether slavery ever can or would exist in any portion of the acquired territory, even if it were left to the option of the slaveholding States themselves.  From the nature of the climate and productions, in much the larger portion of it, it is certain it could never exist; and in the remainder the probabilities are that it would not.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"But, however this may be, the question, involving, as it does, a principle of equality of rights of the separate and several States, as equal copartners in the confederacy, should not be disregarded.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"In organizing governments over these Territories, no duty imposed on Congress by the Constitution requires that they should legislate on the subject of slavery, while their power to do so is not only seriously questioned, but denied, by many of the soundest expounders of that instrument.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"Whether Congress shall legislate or not, the people of the acquired Territories, when assembled in Convention to form State Constitutions, will possess the sole and exclusive power to determine for themselves whether slavery shall or shall not exist within their limits."</P>
123.sgm:<P>The people of California, therefore, acting in conformity with the views thus expressed, and what seemed to be the generally admitted opinion in the States, had every reason to suppose, and did suppose, that by forming a Constitution for themselves, and deciding this question in accordance with their own views and interests, they would be received with open arms by all parties.</P>
123.sgm:<P>In taking this step they proceeded with all the regularity which has ever characterized the American people in discharging the great and important duties of self-government.</P>
123.sgm:<P>As already stated, I arrived at San Francisco on the morning of the 4th of June.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The steamer in which I was a passenger did not stop at Monterey; I therefore did not see General Riley, nor had I any communication with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:him until about the middle of the month, when he came to San Francisco.  A few days after my arrival his proclamation calling a Convention to form a State Constitution, <HI REND="italics">dated the third of June</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The people acted in compliance with what they believed to be the views of Congress, and conformably to the recommendations of the proclamation, and proceeded, on the day appointed, to elect members to a Convention for the purpose of forming a constitution, to be regularly submitted to the people for their ratification or rejection, and, if approved, to be presented to Congress, with a prayer for the admission of California, as a State, into the Union.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I desire here to make a brief and emphatic reply to the various unjust and most extraordinary accusations and insinuations which have been made respecting the movements of the people of California in forming their State Government.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I had no secret instructions, verbal or written, from the President, or any one else, what to say to the people of California on the subject of slavery; nor was it ever hinted or intimated to me that I was expected to attempt to influence their action in the slightest degree on that subject.  That I never did, the people of California will bear me witness.  In that Territory there was none of the machinery of party or of the press; and it is even more absurd to suppose that any <HI REND="italics">secret influences</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I therefore declare all assertions and insinuations, that I was secretly instructed to, or that I did in any way, attempt to influence the people of California to exclude slavery from their Territory, to be without foundation.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The election of delegates to the Convention proceeded regularly in pursuance of the proposed mode of holding it, and as far as I am informed, no questions were asked whether a candidate was a Whig or a Democrat, or whether he was from the North or the South.  The only object seemed to be, to find competent men who were willing to make the sacrifice of time which a proper discharge of their duties would require.</P>
123.sgm:<P>As soon after my arrival at San Francisco as the arrangements of General Smith would permit, I proceeded with him to the interior of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>The Convention met on the 1st of September.  So it will be seen that I was not present where any election was held, nor had I anything to do with selecting or bringing out candidates; and my illness is sufficient proof that I did not, and could not, had I been disposed, exercise any influence in the Convention, which was sitting one hundred and thirty miles from where I was.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Some intimations or assertions, as I am informed, have been thrown out that the South was not fairly represented in the Convention.  I am told by two of the members of Congress elect from California, who were members of the Convention, that of thethirty-seven delegates designated in General Riley's proclamation, sixteen were from slaveholding, ten from the non-slaveholding States, and eleven who were citizens of California under the Mexican government, and that ten of those eleven came from districts below 36&deg; 30'.  So that there were in the Convention twenty-six of the thirty-seven members from the slaveholding States and from places south of the Missouri Compromise line.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It appears, on the journals of the Convention, that the clause in the constitution excluding slavery passed unanimously.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I now proceed to give the result of my inquiries, observations and reflections respecting the population, climate, soil, productions--the general character of grants of land from Mexico--the extent and condition of the public domain--the commercial resources and prospects--the mineral and metallic wealth of California.</P>
123.sgm:<P>POPULATION.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Humboldt, in his Essay on New Spain, states the population of Upper California, in 1802, to have consisted of--</P>
123.sgm:<P>Converted Indians<HSEP>15,562</P>
123.sgm:<P>Other Classes<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">1,300</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Total<HSEP>16,862</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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123.sgm:<P>Alexander Forbes, in his history of Upper and Lower California, published in London in 1839, states the number of converted Indians in the former to have been,</P>
123.sgm:<P>In 1831<HSEP>18,683</P>
123.sgm:<P>Of all other Classes, at<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">4,342</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Total<HSEP>23,025</P>
123.sgm:<P>He expresses the opinion that the number had not varied much up to 1835, and the probability is, there was very little increase in the white population until the emigrants from the United States began to enter the country in 1838.</P>
123.sgm:<P>They increased, from year to year, so that, in 1846, Col. Fremont had little difficulty in calling to his standard some five hundred fighting men.</P>
123.sgm:<P>At the close of the war with Mexico it was supposed that there were, including discharged volunteers, from ten to fifteen thousand Americans and Californians, exclusive of converted Indians, in the Territory.  The immigration of American citizens in 1849, up to the 1st January last, was estimated at eighty thousand--of foreigners, twenty thousand.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The population of California may therefore be safely set down at 115,000 at the commencement of the present year.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is quite impossible to form anything like an accurate estimate of the number of Indians in the Territory.  Since the commencement of the war, and especially since the discovery of gold in the mountains, their numbers at the missions and in the valleys near the coast have very much diminished.  In fact the whole race seems to be rapidly disappearing.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The remains of a vast number of villages in all the valleys of the Sierra Nevada, and among the foot-hills of that range of mountains, show that at no distant day there must have been a numerous population where there is not now an Indian to be seen.  There are a few still retained in the service of the old Californians, but these do not amount to more than a few thousand in the whole Territory.  It is said there are large numbers of them in the mountains and valleys about the head waters of the San Joaquin, along the western base of the Sierra, and in the northern part of the Territory, and that they are hostile.  A number of Americans were killed by them during the last summer in attempting to penetrate high up the rivers in search of gold; they also drove one or two parties from Trinity River.  They have in several instance attacked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>The small bands with whom I met, scattered through the lower portions of the foot-hills of the Sierra, and the valleys between them and the coast, seemed to be almost of the lowest grade of human beings.  They live chiefly on acorns, roots, insects, and the kernel of the pine burr--occasionally they catch fish and game.  They use the bow and arrow, but are said to be too lazy and effeminate to make successful hunters.  They do not appear to have the slightest inclination to cultivate the soil, nor do they even attempt it--as far as I could obtain information--except when they are induced to enter the service of the white inhabitants.  They have never pretended to hold any interest in the soil, nor have they been treated by the Spanish or American immigrants as possessing any.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The Mexican government never treated with them for the purchase of land, or the relinquishment of any claim of it whatever.  They are lazy, idle to the last degree, and, although they are said to be willing to give their services to any one who will provide them with blankets, beef and bread, it is with much difficulty they can be made to perform labor enough to reward their employers for these very limited means of comfort.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Formerly, at the missions, those who were brought up and instructed by the priests, made very good servants.  Many of those now attached to families seem to be faithful and intelligent.  But those who are at all in a wild and uncultivated state are most degraded objects of filth and idleness.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is possible that government might, by collecting them together, teach them, in some degree, the arts and habits of civilization; but, if we may judge of the future from the past, they will disappear from the face of the earth as the settlements of the whites extend over the country.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>CLIMATE.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I now come to consider the climate.  The climate of California is so remarkable in its periodical changes, and for the long continuance of the wet and dry seasons, dividing, as they do, the year into about two equal parts, which have a most peculiar influence on the labor applied to agriculture and the products of the soil, and, in fact, connect themselves so inseparably with all the interests of the country, that I deem it proper briefly to mention the causes which produce these changes, and which, it will be seen, as this report proceeds, must exercise a controlling influence on the commercial prosperity and resources of the country.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is a well-established theory, that the currents of air under which the earth passes in its diurnal revolutions follow the line of the sun's greatest attraction.  These currents of air are drawn toward this line from great distances on each side of it; and as the earth revolves from west to east, they blow from northeast and southeast, meeting, and of course causing a calm, on the line.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Thus, when the sun is directly, in common parlance, over the equator, in the month of March, these currents of air blow from some distance north of the tropic of Cancer, and south of the tropic of Capricorn, in an oblique direction toward this line of the sun's greatest attraction, and forming what are known as the northeast and southeast trade winds.</P>
123.sgm:<P>As the earth, in its path round the sun, gradually brings the <HI REND="italics">line</HI>
123.sgm: of attraction north, in summer these currents of air are carried <HI REND="italics">with</HI>
123.sgm:<P>These northeast winds, in their progress across the continent, toward the Pacific Ocean, pass over the snow-capped ridges of the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, and are of course deprived of all the moisture which can be extracted from them by the low temperature of those regions of eternal snow, and consequently no moisture can be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>This process commences, as I have said, when the line of the sun's greatest attraction comes north in summer, bringing with it these vast atmospheric movements, and on their approach produce the dry season in California, which, governed by these laws, continues until some time after the sun repasses the equator in September, when, about the middle of November, the climate being relieved from these northeast currents of air, the southwest winds set in from the ocean, charged with moisture--the rains commence and continue to fall not constantly, as some persons have represented, but with sufficient frequency to designate the period of their continuance, from about the middle of November until the middle of May, in the latitude of San Francisco, as the wet season.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It follows as a matter of course, that the <HI REND="italics">dry season</HI>
123.sgm:<P>There is an extensive ocean current of cold water, which comes from the northern regions of the Pacific, or, perhaps from the Arctie, and flows along the coast of California.  It comes charged with, and emits in its progress, air, which appears in the form of fog when it comes in contact with a higher temperature on the American coast, as the Gulf stream of the Atlantic exhales vapor when it meets in any part of its progress, a lower temperature.  This current has not been surveyed, and, therefore, its source, temperature, velocity, width and course have not been accurately ascertained.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is believed by Lieutenant Maury, on what he considers sufficient evidence--and no higher authority can be cited--that the current comes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>Below latitude 39&deg;, and west of the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada, the forests of California are limited to some scattering groves of oak in the valleys and along the borders of the streams, and of red wood on the ridges and in the gorges of the hills--sometimes extending into the plains.  Some of the hills are covered with dwarf shrubs, which may be used as fuel.  With these exceptions, the whole territory presents a surface without trees or shrubbery.  It is covered, however, with various species of grass, and for many miles from the coast with wild oats, which, in the valleys, grow most luxuriantly.  These grasses and oats mature and ripen early in the dry season, and soon cease to protect the soil from the scorching rays of the sun.  As the summer advances, the moisture in the atmosphere and the earth, to a considerable depth, soon becomes exhausted; and the radiation of heat, from the extensive naked plains and hill sides, is very great.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The cold, dry currents of air from the northeast, after passing the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, descend to the Pacific, and absorb the moisture of the atmosphere, to a great distance from the land.  The cold air from the mountains, and that which accompanies the great ocean current from the northwest, thus become united, and vast banks of fog are generated, which, when driven by the wind, has a penetrating, or <HI REND="italics">cutting</HI>
123.sgm:<P>As the sun rises from day to day, week after week, and month after month, in unclouded brightness during the dry season, and pours down his unbroken rays on the dry, unprotected surface of the country, the heat becomes so much greater inland than it is on the ocean, that an under current of cold air, bringing the fog with it, rushes over the coast range of hills, and through their numerous passes, toward the interior.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Every day, as the heat, inland, attains a sufficient temperature, the cold, dry wind from the ocean commences to blow  This is usually from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>These cold winds and fogs render the climate at San Francisco, and all along the coast of California, except the extreme southern portion of it, probably more uncomfortable, to those not accustomed to it, in summer than in winter.</P>
123.sgm:<P>A few miles inland, where the heat of the sun modifies and softens the wind from the ocean, the climate is moderate and delightful.  The heat in the middle of the day is not so great as to retard labor, or render exercise in the open air uncomfortable.  The nights are cool and pleasant.  This description of climate prevails in all the valleys along the coast range, and extends throughout the country, north and south, as far eastward as the valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin.  In this vast plain the sea breeze loses its influence, and the degree of heat in the middle of the day, during the summer months, is much greater than is known on the Atlantic coast in the same latitudes.  It is dry, however, and probably not more oppressive.  On the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada, and especially in the deep ravines of the streams, the thermometer frequently ranges from 110&deg; to 115&deg; in the shade, during three or four hours of the day, say from 11 to 3 o'clock.  In the evening as the sun declines, the radiation of heat ceases.  The cool dry atmosphere from the mountains spreads over the whole country, and renders the nights cool and invigorating.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I have been kindly furnished by Surgeon General Lawson, U.S.  Army, with thermometrical observations, taken at the places in California, viz: At San Francisco, by Assistant Surgeon W. C. Parker, for six months embracing the last quarter of 1847, and the first quarter of 1848.  The monthly mean temperature was as follows:  October, 57&deg;; November, 49&deg;; December, 50&deg;; January, 49&deg;; February, 50&deg;; March, 51&deg;.</P>
123.sgm:<P>At Monterey, in latitude 36&deg; 38' north, and longitude 121&deg; west, on the coast, about one degree and a half south of San Francisco, by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>At Los Angelos, latitude 34&deg; 7', longitude west 118&deg; 7', by Assistant Surgeon John S. Griffin, for ten months--from June, 1847, to March, 1848, inclusive.  The monthly mean temperature was: June, 73&deg;; July, 74&deg;; August, 75&deg;; September, 75&deg;; October, 69&deg;; November, 59&deg;; December, 60&deg;.  This place is about forty miles from the coast.</P>
123.sgm:<P>At San Diego, latitude 32&deg; 45', longitude west 117&deg; 11', by Assistant Surgeon J. D. Summers, for the following three months of 1849, viz.: July, monthly mean temperature, 71&deg;; August, 75&deg;; September, 70&deg;.</P>
123.sgm:<P>At Suttersville, on the Sacramento River, latitude 38&deg; 32' north, longitude west 121&deg; 34', by Assistant Surgeon R. Murray, for the following months of 1849: July, monthly mean temperature 73&deg;; August, 70&deg;; September, 65&deg;; October, 65&deg;.</P>
123.sgm:<P>These observations show a remarkably high temperature at San Francisco during the six months from October to March inclusive; a variation of only eight degrees in the monthly mean, and a mean temperature for the six months of 51 degrees.</P>
123.sgm:<P>At Monterey we find the mean monthly temperature from May to November, inclusive, varying only six degrees, and the mean temperature of the seven months to have been 58&deg;.  If we take the three summer months, the mean heat was 60&deg;.  The mean of the three winter months was a little over 49&deg;; showing a mean difference, on that part of the coast, of only 11&deg; between summer and winter.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The mean temperature of San Francisco, for the three winter months, was precisely the same as at Monterey--a little over 49&deg;.</P>
123.sgm:<P>As these cities are only about one degree and a half distant from each other, and both situated near the ocean, the temperature at both, in summer, may very reasonably be supposed to be as nearly similar as the thermometer shows it to be in winter.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The mean temperature of July, August and September, at San Diego, only 3&deg; 53' south of Monterey, was 72&deg;.  The mean temperature of the same months at Monterey was a little over 59&deg;, showing a mean difference of 13&deg;.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>This would seem to indicate that the cold ocean current is thrown off from the southern part of the coast by Point Conception, and the islands south of it; and consequently its influence on the climate of San Diego is much less than at Monterey and San Francisco.</P>
123.sgm:<P>At Los Angelos, forty miles distant from the coast, the mean temperature of the three months is 74&deg;; and of the three autumn months 67&deg; of the three winter months 57&deg;.</P>
123.sgm:<P>At Suttersville, about one hundred and thirty miles from the ocean, and 4&deg; north of Los Angelos, the mean temperature of August, September and October was 67&deg;.  The mean temperature of the same months at Monterey was 59&deg;; showing a difference of 8&deg; between the sea-coast and the interior, on nearly the same parallel of latitude.  A much greater difference would undoubtedly appear if we had observation for the spring and summer months at Suttersville and the gold mines.</P>
123.sgm:<P>These variations in the climate of California account for the various and conflicting opinions and statements respecting it.</P>
123.sgm:<P>A stranger arriving at San Francisco in summer is annoyed by the cold winds and fogs, and pronounces the climate intolerable.  A few months will modify if not banish his dislike, and he will not fail to appreciate the beneficial effects of a cool, bracing atmosphere.  Those who approach California overland, through the passes of the mountains, find the heat of summer, in the middle of the day, greater than they have been accustomed to, and therefore many complain of it.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Those who take up their residence in the valleys which are situated between the great plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and the coast range of hills, find the climate, especially in the dry season, as healthful and pleasant as it is possible for any climate to be which possesses sufficient heat to mature the cereal grains and edible roots of the temperate zone.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The division of the year into two distinct seasons--dry and wet--impresses those who have been accustomed to the variable climate of the Atlantic States unfavorably.  The dry appearance of the country in summer and the difficulty of moving about in winter seem to impose serious difficulties in the way of agricultural prosperity, while the many and decided advantages resulting from the mildness of winter, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>If a native of California were to go to New England in winter, and see the ground frozen and covered with snow, the streams with ice, and find himself in a temperature many degrees colder than he had ever felt before, he would probably be as much surprised that people could or would live in so inhospitable a region, as any immigrant ever has been at what he has seen or felt in California.</P>
123.sgm:<P>So much are our opinions influenced by early impressions, the vicissitudes of the seasons with which we are familiar, love of country, home and kindred, that we ought never to hazard a hasty opinion, when we come in contact with circumstances entirely different from those to which we have all our lives been accustomed.</P>
123.sgm:<P>SOIL.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The valleys which are situated parallel to the coast range, and those which extend eastwardly in all directions among the hills, toward the great plain of the Sacramento, are of unsurpassed fertility.</P>
123.sgm:<P>They have a deep, black, alluvial soil, which has the appearance of having been deposited when they were covered with water.  The idea is strengthened by the fact that the rising grounds on the borders of these valleys, and many hills of moderate elevation have a soil precisely like that of the adjoining plains.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This soil is so porous, that it remains perfectly unbroken by gullies, notwithstanding the great quantity of water which falls in it annually during the wet season.  The land in the northern part of the territory on the Trinity and other rivers, and on the borders of Clear Lake, as far as it has been examined, is said to be remarkably fertile</P>
123.sgm:<P>The great valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin has evidently been, at some remote period, the bed of a lake; and those rivers which drain it, present the appearance of having cut their channels through the alluvial deposit after it had been formed.  In fact, it is not possible that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>There are many beautiful valleys and rich hill sides among the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada, which, when the profits of labor in mining shall be reduced, so as to cause its application to agriculture, will probably support a large population.  There is said to be a rich belt of well-timbered and watered country extending the whole length of the gold region between it and the Sierra Nevada, some twenty miles in width.  There is no information sufficiently accurate respecting the eastern slope of the great snowy range to enable us to form any opinion of its general character or soil.  Some of its valleys have been visited by miners, who represent them as fully equal to any portion of the country to the westward of it.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The great valley of the Colorado, situated between the Sierra Madre and the Sierra Nevada, is but little known.  It is inhabited by numerous tribes of savages, who manifest the most decided hostility toward the whites, and have hitherto prevented any explorations of their country, and do not permit emigrants to pass through it.  Therefore parties from Santa Fe, on their way to California, are compelled to make a circuit of near a thousand miles northward to the Salt Lake, or about the same distance southward by the route of the Gila.  Although this valley is little known, there are indications that it is fertile and valuable.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The name of the river "Colorado" is descriptive of its waters; they are as deeply colored as those of the Missouri or Red River, while those of the Gila, which we know flows through barren lands, are clear.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It would seem impossible for a large river to collect sediment enough in a sandy, barren soil to color its waters so deeply as to give it a name among those who first discovered and have since visited its shores.  The probability, therefore, is, that this river flows through an alluvial valley <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>As this valley is situated in the direct route from Santa Fe to California, its thorough exploration becomes a matter of very great importance, especially as it is highly probable that the elevated regions to the north of it, covered with snow during most of the year, will force the line of the great National Railway to the Pacific through some portion of it.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The soil I have described situated west of the Sierra Nevada, and embracing the plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, covers an area, as nearly as I can estimate, of between fifty and sixty thousand square miles, and would, under a proper system of cultivation, be capable of supporting a population equal to that of Ohio or New York at the present time.</P>
123.sgm:<P>PRODUCTS OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Previous to the treaty of peace with Mexico, and the discovery of gold, the exportable products of the country consisted almost exclusively of hides and tallow.  The Californians were a pastoral people, and paid much more attention to the raising of horses and cattle than the cultivation of the soil.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Wheat, barley, maize, beans and edible roots, were cultivated in sufficient quantity for home consumption, but, as far as I am informed, not for exportation.  At that time a full-grown ox, steer, or cow, was worth about two dollars.  Beef cattle, delivered on the navigable waters of the bay of San Francisco, are now worth from $20 to $30 per head; horses, formerly worth from $5 to $10, are now valued at $60 to $150.  The destruction of cattle for their hides and tallow has now entirely ceased, in consequence of the demand for beef.  This demand will of course increase with the population; and it would seem that, in a very few years, there will be none to supply the market.</P>
123.sgm:<P>If we estimate the number of cattle, now in California, at 500,000 head, which is believed to be about the number--and the population at 120,000, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>If we adopt the estimate of those well acquainted with the demand, of half a beef, on an average, to each inhabitant, it appears there will be a consumption, in 1850, of 60,000 head; in 1851, of 110,000; in 1852, of 160,000; in 1853, of 210,000; in 1854, of 260,000.  Making an aggregate of 800,000, which would absorb all the present stock, with is natural increase.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This is a very important matter, as connected with the amount of supply which that country will ultimately require from the Atlantic States of the Union.  There is no other country on earth which has, or will ever possess, the means of supplying so great a demand.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is now a well-established fact among the emigrants to California, that oxen possess greater powers of endurance than mules or horses; that they will perform the distance with loaded wagons in less time, and come in at the end of the journey in better condition.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Cows are now driven in considerable numbers from Missouri, and the time cannot be far distant when cattle from the western States will be driven annually by tens of thousands to supply this new market.</P>
123.sgm:<P>If California increases in population as fast as the most moderate estimate would lead us to believe, it will not be five years before she will require more than 100,000 head of beef cattle per annum, from some quarter, to supply the wants of her people.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It must not be supposed that salt provisions may supply this vast demand.  Those who have attempted to live on such food, during the dry season, have been attacked with scurvy and other cutaneous diseases of which many have died.</P>
123.sgm:<P>There is no climate in the world where fresh meat and vegetables are more essential to human health.  In fact they are indispensable.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It must not be inferred that cattle driven across the plains and mountains, from the western States, will be fit for beef on their arrival in California.  But one winter and spring on the luxuriant pastures of that country will put them in a condition which would render them acceptable in any Atlantic market.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>These grazing grounds are extensive enough to support five times as many cattle as may be <HI REND="italics">annually</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I am acquainted with a drover who left California in December last with the intention of bringing in ten thousand sheep from New Mexico.  This shows that the flocks and herds east of the Rocky Mountains are looked to already as the source from which the markets on the Pacific are to be supplied.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The climate and soil of California are well suited to the growth of wheat, barley, rye and oats.  The temperature along the coast is too cool for the successful culture of maize, as a field crop.  The fact that oats, the species which is cultivated in the Atlantic States, are annually self-sowed and produced on all the plains and hills along the coast, and as far inland as the sea breeze has a marked influence on the climate, is sufficient proof that all the cereal grains may be successfully cultivated without the aid of <HI REND="italics">irrigation</HI>
123.sgm:<P>It is quite true that <HI REND="italics">this auxiliary</HI>
123.sgm: was extensively employed at the missions, and undoubtedly increased the product of all crops to which it was applied, as it will in any country on earth if skilfully used.  This does not prove, however, that it was <HI REND="italics">essentially necessary</HI>
123.sgm: to the production of an ample reward to the husbandman.  The experience of all the old inhabitants is sufficient evidence of this.  If their imperfect mode of culture secured satisfactory returns, it is reasonable to presume that a more perfect system would produce much greater results.  There is abundant evidence to prove that, in the rich alluvial valleys, wheat and barley have produced from forty to sixty bushels from one bushel of seed, <HI REND="italics">without irrigation</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Irish potatoes, turnips, onions, in fact all the edible roots known and cultivated in the Atlantic States, are produced in great perfection.  In all the valleys east of the coast range of hills the climate is sufficiently warm to mature crops of Indian corn, rice, and probably tobacco.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The cultivation of the grape has attracted much attention at the missions, among the residents of towns, and the rural population, and been attended with much success, wherever it has been attempted.   The dry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>The wine made from it is of excellent quality, very palatable, and can be produced in any quantity.  The grapes are delicious, and produced with very little labor.  When taken from the vines in bunches and suspended in a dry room, by the stems, they become partially dry, retain their flavor, and remain several weeks, perhaps months, without decay.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Apples, pears and peaches are cultivated with facility and there is no reason to doubt that all the fruits of the Atlantic States can be produced in great plenty and perfection.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The grasses are very luxuriant and nutritious, affording excellent pasture.  The oats, which spring up the whole length of the sea coast, and from forty to sixty miles inland, render the cultivation of that crop entirely unnecessary, and yield a very great quantity of nutritious food for horses, cattle, and sheep.  The dry season matures, and I may say, cures these grasses and oats, so that they remain in an excellent state of preservation during the summer and autumn, and afford an ample supply of forage.  While the whole surface of the country appears parched, and vegetation destroyed, the numerous flocks and herds which roam over it, continue in excellent condition.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Although the mildness of the winter months and the fertility of the soil secure to California very decided agricultural advantages, it is admitted that <HI REND="italics">irrigation</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The farmer derives some very important benefits from me dry season.  His crops in harvest time are never injured by rain; began with perfect confidence permit them to remain in his fields as long after they have been gathered as his convenience may require; he has no fears that they will be injured by wet or unfavorable weather.  Hence it is that many who have long been accustomed to that climate, prefer it to the changeable weather east of the Rocky Mountains.</P>
123.sgm:<P>As already stateD, the forests of California, south of latitude 39&deg;, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>It can be of no practical use to speculate on the causes which have denuded so large an extent of country, further than to ascertain whether the soil is or is not favorable to the growth of forest trees.</P>
123.sgm:<P>When the dry season sets in, the entire surface is covered with a luxuriant growth of grass and oats, which, as the summer advances, becomes perfectly dry.  The remains of all dead trees and shrubs also become dry.  These materials, therefore, are very combustible, and usually take fire in the latter part of summer and beginning of autumn, which commonly passes over the whole country, destroying in its course, the young shrubs and trees.  In fact, it seems to be the same process which has destroyed or prevented the growth of forest trees on the prairies of the western States, and not any quality in the soil unfriendly to their growth.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The absence of timber and the continuance of the dry season are apt to be regarded by farmers, on first going into the country, as irremediable defects, and as presenting obstacles almost insurmountable to the successful progress of agriculture.  A little experience will modify these opinions.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is soon ascertained that the soil will produce abundantly without manure; that flocks and herds sustain themselves through the winter without being fed at the farmyard, and, consequently, no labor is necessary to provide forage for them; that ditches are easily dug, which present very good barriers for the protection of crops, until live fences can be planted and have time to grow.  Forest trees may be planted with little labor, and in very few years attain a sufficient size for building and fencing purposes.  Time may be usefully employed in sowing various grain and root crops during the wet or winter season.  There is no weather cold enough to destroy root crops, and, therefore, it is not necessary to gather them.  They can be used or sold from the field where they grow.  The labor, therefore, required in most of the old States to fell the forests, clear the land of rubbish, and prepare it for seed, may here be applied to other objects.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>All these things, together with the <HI REND="italics">perfect security of all crops, in harvest time from injury by wet weather</HI>
123.sgm:<P>In the northern part of the Territory, above latitude 39&deg;, and on the hills, which rise from the great plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, to the foot of the Sierra Nevada, the forests of timber are beautiful and extensive, and would, if brought into use, be sufficiently productive to supply the wants of the southern and western portions of the State.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I have spoken of the agricultural products and resources of the country, without reference to the remarkable state of things caused by the discovery of gold, which, it is probable will postpone for an indefinite time all efforts to improve the soil.  As long as laborers can earn fifteen dollars or more per day, in collecting gold, they can very well afford to import their supplies from countries where the wages of labor are not more than from fifty cents to one dollar per day.  It is not, therefore, to be supposed that the soil will be cultivated more than the production of vegetables, fruits, and other articles so perishable in their nature that they cannot be brought from a great distance, will require.</P>
123.sgm:<P>To secure this important market for the products and manufactures of the States east of the Rocky Mountains is undoubtedly an object of the greatest importance.  It will be considered in its proper place.</P>
123.sgm:<P>PUBLIC DOMAIN.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The extent and value of the public lands, suitable for agricultural purposes in California, cannot be ascertained with any degree of accuracy until some very important preliminary questions shall have been settled.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is not known whether the Jesuits who founded the mission, or their successors, the Franciscans, ever did, or do now hold any title from the Spanish crown to the lands which they occupied.  Nor has any investigation been made to ascertain how far those titles, if they ever existed, have been invalidated by the acts of the priests, or the decrees of the Mexican government.</P>
123.sgm:<P>A superficial view of the matter would be very apt to lead to the supposition that the Jesuits, so celebrated for wisdom and cunning, would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>Most of the land fit for cultivation south of latitude 39&deg;, and west of the valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, is claimed under, what purport to be, grants from the Mexican government.</P>
123.sgm:<P>On most of these grants the minerals and metals are reserved to the government--conditions were coupled with many of them which have not been complied with.  In others, the boundaries described embrace two or three times as much land as the grant conveys.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The Mexican law required all grants made by the Provisional Government, with few exceptions, to be confirmed by the Supreme Government.  The great distance which separated them, and the unfrequent or difficult means of communication, made a compliance with the law so expensive and tardy, that it came to be almost disregarded.</P>
123.sgm:<P>There were other causes which led to this neglect.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Previous to the treaty with Mexico and the immigration of American citizens to that country, land was not regarded as of much value, except for grazing purposes.  There was room enough for all.  Therefore the claimants or proprietors did not molest each other, or inquire into the validity of titles.</P>
123.sgm:<P>These extensive grants are described by natural boundaries, such as mountains, bays and promontories, which, in many instances might allow of a variation of several miles in the establishment of a corner with chain and compass.</P>
123.sgm:<P>By the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, the United States purchased all the rights and interests of Mexico to and in California.  This purchase not only embraced all the lands which had not been granted by Mexico, but all the reserved minerals and metals, and also the revisionary rights which might accrue to Mexico from a want of compliance on the part of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:the  grantees with the conditions of their grants, <HI REND="italics">or a want of perfection in the grants</HI>
123.sgm:<P>It will be perceived that this is a subject of very great importance, not only to the people of California, but to the United States, and calls for prompt and efficient action on the part of the government.  It is believed that the appointment of competent commissioners, fully empowered to investigate these titles, in a spirit of kindness toward the claimants, with power to confirm such titles as justice may seem to demand, or with instructions to report their proceedings and awards to Congress, for confirmation or rejection, will be the best and perhaps the only satisfactory mode of adjusting this complex and difficult question.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The lands in the northern part of the Territory, above the 39&deg;, have not been explored or granted.  They are supposed to embrace an area of about twenty millions of acres, a large portion of which is doubtless valuable for its timber and soil.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Comparatively few grants have been obtained in the great valley of the Sacramento and San Joaquin.  This vast tract, therefore, containing, as is estimated, from twelve to fifteen millions of acres, belongs mostly to the government.  South of this valley, and west of the Colorado, within the limits of California, as indicated in her constitution, there are said to be extensive tracts of valuable unappropriated land, and on investigation it will probably appear that there are many of them in detached bodies, which have not been granted.</P>
123.sgm:<P>do not speak of the gold region, embracing the entire foot hills of the Sierra Nevada, some five hundred miles long and sixty miles broad, in connexion with the public domain, which may be embraced in the general land system for sale and settlement, for reasons which will be hereafter assigned.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The survey of the public lands on a system suited to the interests of the country is a matter of very great importance.  In the inhabited portions of the Territory the boundaries of Mexican grants, running as they do in all directions, will render the system of surveys by parallels of latitude and longitude quite impracticable.</P>
123.sgm:<P>In all parts of the country irrigation is desirable, and its benefits should be secured as far as possible by suitable surveys and legal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>A system of drainage, which would also secure irrigation, is absolutely necessary to give value to the great plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin.  This valley is so extensive and level, that if the rivers passing through it were never to overflow their banks, the rain which falls in winter would render a greater portion of it unfit for cultivation.  The foundation of such a system can only be established in the survey and sale of the land.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This can be done by laying out canals and drains at suitable distances, and in proper directions and leaving wide margins to the rivers, that they may have plenty of room to increase their channels when their waters shall be confined within them by embankments</HI>
123.sgm:<P>It would be well also to regulate the price of these lands so as to meet, in some degree, the expense of draining them.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This system would, when agriculture shall become a pursuit in California, make this valley one of the most beautiful and productive portions of the Union.</P>
123.sgm:<P>COMMERCIAL RESOURCES.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The commercial resources of California are, at present, founded entirely on her <HI REND="italics">metallic wealth</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The day is probably not distant, however, when her minerals, especially the quicksilver mines, will be extensively and profitably worked.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Gold is the product of the country, and is immediately available, in an uncoined state, for all the purposes of exchange.  It is not there, as in other countries where the productions of the earth and of art are sent to markets--foreign or domestic--to be exchanged for the precious metals, or other articles of value.  There, gold not only supplies the medium of domestic trade, but of foreign commerce.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>At first view, this state of things would seem to be unfavorable to all extensive intercourse with other parts of the world, because of the want of return freights of <HI REND="italics">home production</HI>
123.sgm:<P>These vessels, however, making no calculations on return cargoes, will estimate the entire profits of the voyage on their outward freights, and become, on their arrival, willing carriers for a comparatively small consideration.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This tendency in the course of trade, it would seem, must make San Francisco a warehouse for the supply, to a certain extent, of all the ports of the Pacific, American, Asiatic, and the Islands.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Almost every article now exported by them finds a ready market in California, and the establishment of a mint will bring there also the silver bullion, amounting to more than ten millions per annum, from the west coast of Mexico, and, perhaps, ultimately from Chili and Peru, to be assayed and coined.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Vessels bound round Cape Horn, with cargoes for markets on the American coast of the Pacific, can, by taking advantage of the southeast trade winds, and "standing broad-off the Cape," make the voyage to San Francisco in as short a time as they can to Valparaiso or any port south of California.  Vessels have sailed from our Atlantic ports to San Francisco in less than one hundred days, and they have been, in more than one instance, over one hundred and twenty days in going from Panama to San Francisco.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This astonishing difference, in time and distance, was caused by the course of the winds and the "gulf-stream" of the Pacific, mentioned in my remarks on the climate of California.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The vessels from our Atlantic ports took advantage of the winds by steering <HI REND="italics">from the Cape</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The vessels from Panama were kept back by calms, adverse winds, and currents.  It will be perceived, therefore, that there can be no inducement for vessels bound round Cape Horn, with mixed or assorted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:cargoes, to stop at Valparaiso, Callao, Guayaquil, or any other port on the west coast, because the exports of all those places will seek a market at San Francisco; and their supply of merchandize, as <HI REND="italics">return freight</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Gold dust is worth but $17 per ounce in Chili.  It is worth $18 at the United States Mint.  If, therefore, a merchant of Valparaiso has ten thousand ounces in San Francisco, received in payment for lumber, barley, flour, or other produce, and desires an invoice of goods from the United States or Europe, he will gain $10,000 at the outset, by sending his gold to New York, besides saving something on the freight and insurance, and at least one month's interest.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The countries on the west coast of America have no exports which find a market in China, or other ports of Asia.  San Francisco will therefore become not only the mart of these exports, but also of the products and manufactures of India required in exchange for them, which must be paid for, principally in gold coin or gold dust.  Neither gold coin nor gold dust will answer as a remittance to China.  Gold, in China, is not currency in any shape, nor is it received in payment of import duties, or taxes on land, or on the industry of the people.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The value of pure gold in China is not far from $14 the ounce.  Hence, the importer of manufactures and products of India into San Francisco will remit the gold coin or dust direct to New York, for investment in sterling bills on London.  These bills will be sent to London, and placed to the credit of the firm in China from whom the merchandise had been received, and who, on learning of the remittance having gone forward to their agents, will draw a <HI REND="italics">six months' sight bill</HI>
123.sgm: for the amount, which will sell in China at the rate of four shillings and <HI REND="italics">two</HI>
123.sgm: pence or <HI REND="italics">three</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I have a statement before me from one of the most eminent merchants and bankers of New York, who was for many years engaged extensively in the India trade, which shows that the profit or gain on ten thousand ounces of gold thus remitted would be<HSEP> $34,434 44  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>It will thus be perceived, that nature has so arranged the winds and currents of the Pacific, and disposed of her vast treasures in the hills and mountains of California, as to give to the harbor of San Francisco the control of the commerce of that ocean, as far as it may be connected with the west coast of America.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Important as the commerce of the Pacific undoubtedly is, and will be, to California, it cannot now, nor will it ever compare in magnitude and value to the domestic trade between her and the older States of the Union.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Two years ago California did not probably contain more than 15,000 people.  That portion of it which has since been so wonderfully peopled by American citizens, was, comparatively, without resources, and not supplied with the common comforts of shelter afforded by a forest country.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding the great distances emigrants have been compelled to travel to reach the Territory, more than 100,000 have overcome all difficulties and spread themselves over its hills and plains.</P>
123.sgm:<P>They have been supplied from distances as great as they themselves have passed, with not only the necessaries, but the comforts and many of the luxuries of life.  Houses have been imported from China, Chili, and the Atlantic States of the Union.  All the materials required in building cities and towns have been added to the wants of a people so numerous, destitute and remote from the sources of supply.</P>
123.sgm:<P>These wants will exist as long as emigration continues to flow into the country, and labor employed in collecting gold shall be more profitable than its application to agriculture, the mechanic arts, and the great variety of pursuits which are fostered and sustained in other civilized communities.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This may be shown, by mentioning the prices of a few articles.  Last summer and autumn, lumber was sold in San Francisco at $300 to $400 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:per thousand feet.  At Stockton and Sacramento City, at $500 to $600.  At these prices, it could be made in the Territory, and many persons were engaged in the business.  I perceive, by recent accounts, that the price had fallen at San Francisco to $75; at this price it <HI REND="italics">cannot</HI>
123.sgm: be made where labor is from $10 to $15 per day, and the difficulties attending its manufacture are much greater than in the Atlantic States.  Lumber can be delivered in our large lumber markets for an <HI REND="italics">average</HI>
123.sgm:<P>It is probable that the demand, for several years to come, will not be less than twenty millions of feet per annum, which, at $40 per thousand, will be $8,000,000.</P>
123.sgm:<P>When California comes to have a population of 200,000, which she will have before the close of the present year, she will require near half a million of barrels of flour from some quarter, and no country can supply it as good and cheap as the old States of the Union.  Including freight and insurance, this may be set down as an item of about $5,000,000.  The article of clothing, allowing $20 to each person, would be $4,000,000.</P>
123.sgm:<P>There is no pretension to accuracy in these items, and they may be estimated too high, but it is quite as probable they are too low.</P>
123.sgm:<P>We have no data on which to found a calculation of what the value of the trade between the States east of the Rocky Mountains and California will be during the current year.  I will venture the opinion, however, that it will not fall short of $25,000,000.  It may go far beyond that sum.  At present, I can perceive no cause which will retard or diminish emigration.</P>
123.sgm:<P>If the movement shall continue five years, our commerce with that Territory may reach $100,000,000 per annum.  This is doubtless a startling sum, but it must be borne in mind that we have to build cities and towns, supply machinery for mining, coal for domestic purposes, and steam navigation, and all the multifarious articles used in providing the comforts and luxuries of life, for half a million of people, who will have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>It is difficult to imagine or calculate the effect which will be produced on all the industrial pursuits of the people of the old States of the Union, by this withdrawal from them of a half a million of producers, who, in their new homes and new pursuits, will <HI REND="italics">give existence</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The distance round Cape Horn is so great that breadstuffs and many other articles of food deteriorate, and many others are so perishable in their nature that they would decay on the passage.  This would be the case particularly with all kinds of vegetables and undried fruits.  Until some more speedy mode of communication shall be established by which produce can be transferred, the farmers and planters of the old States will not realize the full value of this new market on the Pacific.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Many other important interests will be kept back, especially the consumption of coal.  The American steamers now on the ocean, those on their way there and others shortly to be sent out will consume not far from one hundred thousand tons of coal per annum.  The scarcity of wood in California will bring coal into general use as fuel as soon as it can be obtained at reasonable prices.  Suppose there may be three years hence forty thousand houses, which shall consume five tons each per annum.  This, with the steamers, would be a consumption of three hundred thousand tons.  If delivered at $20 per ton it would compete successfully with the coal from Vancouver's Island and New Holland and amount to $6,000,000.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The construction of a railroad across the Isthmus of Panama would secure the market for these articles against all competition.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Some idea may be formed of the demand for them from the prices paid in San Francisco last autumn.  Coal was sold at $60 to $100 per ton; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>The distance from Chagres to New York has recently been run in seven days.  The same speed would carry a steamboat from Panama to San Francisco in ten days.  Allow three days to convey freight across the Isthmus, on a railway, and both passengers and freight will be conveyed from New York to San Francisco in twenty days.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This celerity of movement would secure for American produce the entire market of California.  Sailing vessels may be successfully employed between our Atlantic and Gulf ports and the terminus of the railway on this side of the Isthmus; and <HI REND="italics">propellers</HI>
123.sgm:<P>These modes of conveyance, in connexion with the railroad across the Isthmus, would be sufficiently expeditious and economical to turn the tide of commerce, between the Atlantic and Pacific States of the Union, into that channel.  The tendency of our commerce on the Pacific to promote the employment of ocean steamers is of much importance as connected with the defence of our extensive line of coast from latitude 32&deg; to 49&deg;, the protection of the whale fishery, and other branches of trade on that ocean.  The establishment of a line of heavy steamers to China would promote all these objocts; increase our intercourse with the country, and probably be the means of opening communications with Japan.  Money wisely employed in promoting these objects, it is believed, would add more to the power and prosperity of the country than its expenditure on any <HI REND="italics">general system</HI>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>The coast has not been surveyed, nor has its outline bean correctly ascertained.  There are many rocks above and below the water-line, and small islands not mentioned or indicated on any chart, which render navigation near the land, especially at night, extremely dangerous.</P>
123.sgm:<P>An accurate survey of the coast, to commence at the most important points, the construction of light-houses, and the placing of buoys in proper positions, are objects of much importance, and, it is not doubted, will attract the early attention of government.</P>
123.sgm:<P>METALLIC AND MINERAL WEALTH.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The gold region of California is between four hundred and five hundred miles long, and from forty to fifty miles broad, following the line of the Sierra Nevada.  Further discoveries may, and probably will, increase the area.  It embraces within its limits those extensive ranges of hills which rise on the eastern border of the plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and extending eastwardly from fifty to sixty miles, they attain an elevation of about four thousand feet, and terminate at the base of the main ridge of the Sierra Nevada.  There are numerous streams which have their sources in the springs of the Sierra, and receive the water from its melting snows, and that which falls in rain during the wet season.</P>
123.sgm:<P>These streams form rivers, which have cut their channels through the ranges of foot hills westwardly to the plain, and disembogue into the Sacramento and San Joaquin.  These rivers are from ten to fifteen, and probably some of them twenty miles apart.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The principal formation or substratum in these hills is talcose slate; the superstratum, sometimes penetrating to a great depth, is quartz.  This, however, does not cover the entire face of the country, but extends in large bodies in various directions--is found in masses and small fragments on the surface, and seen along the ravines, and in the mountains overhanging the rivers, and in the hill sides in its orignal beds.  It crops out in the valleys and on the tops of the hills, and forms a striking feature of the entire country over which it extends.  From innumerable evidence and indications, it has come to be the universally admitted opinion among the miners and intelligent men who have examined this region, that the <HI REND="italics">gold, whether in detached particles and in pieces, or in veins, was</HI>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<HI REND="italics">created in combination with the quartz</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The rivers, in forming their channels, or breaking their way through the hills, have come in contact with the quartz containing the gold veins, and by constant attrition cut the gold into fine flakes and dust, and it is found among the sand and gravel of their beds at those places where the swiftness of the current reduces it, in the dry season, to the narrowest possible limits, and where a wide margin is, consequently, left on each side, over which the water rushes, during the wet season, with great force.</P>
123.sgm:<P>As the velocity of some streams is greater than others, so is the gold found in fine or coarse particles, apparently corresponding to the degree of attrition to which it has been exposed.  The water from the hills and upper valleys, in finding its way to the rivers, has cut deep ravines, and, wherever it came in contact with the quartz, has dissolved or crumbled it in pieces.</P>
123.sgm:<P>In the dry season these channels are mostly without water, and gold is found in the beds and margins of many of them in large quantities, but in a much coarser state than in the rivers; owing, undoubtedly, to the moderate flow and temporary continuance of the current, which has reduced it to smooth shapes, not unlike pebbles, but had not sufficient force to reduce it to flakes or dust.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The dry diggings are places where quartz containing gold has cropped out, and been disintegrated, crumbled to fragments, pebbles and dust, by the action of water and the atmosphere.  The gold has been left as it was made, in all imaginable shapes; in pieces of all sizes, and from one grain to several pounds in weight.  The evidences that it was created in combination with quartz are too numerous and striking to admit of doubt or cavil.  <HI REND="italics">They are found in combination in large quantities</HI>
123.sgm:<P>A very large proportion of the pieces of gold found in these situations have more or less quartz adhering to them.  In many specimens they are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>This gold, not having been exposed to the attrition of a strong current of water, retains, in a great degree, its original conformation.</P>
123.sgm:<P>These diggings, in some places, spread over valleys of considerable extent, which have the appearance of alluvion, formed by washings from the adjoining hills, of decomposed quartz and slate earth, and vegetable matter.</P>
123.sgm:<P>In addition to these facts it is beyond doubt true, that several vein-mines have been taken, showing the minute connection between the gold and the rock, and indicating a value hitherto unknown in gold-mining.</P>
123.sgm:<P>These veins do not present the appearance of places where gold may have been lodged by some violent eruption.  It is combined with the quartz, in all imaginable forms and degrees of richness.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The rivers present very striking and, it would seem, conclusive evidence respecting the quantity of gold remaining undiscovered in the quartz veins.  It is not probable that the gold in the dry diggings, and that in the rivers--the former in lumps, the latter in dust--was created by different processes.  That which is found in the rivers has undoubtedly been cut or worn from the veins in the rock, with which their currents have come in contact.  All of them appear to be equally rich.  This is shown by the fact that a laboring man may collect nearly as much in one river as he can in another.  They intersect and cut through the gold region, running from east to west, at irregular distances of fifteen to twenty, and perhaps some of them thirty miles apart.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Hence it appears that the gold veins are equally rich in all parts of that most remarkable section of country.  Were it wanting, there are further proofs of this in the ravines and dry diggings, which uniformly confirm what nature so plainly shows in the rivers.</P>
123.sgm:<P>For the purpose of forming some opinion respecting the probable amount or value of treasure in the gold region, it will be proper to state the estimates which have been made of the quantity collected since its discovery</P>
123.sgm:<P>Gold was first discovered on the south fork of the American River, at a place called Sutter's Mill, now Culoma--late in May or early in June, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>No immigration into the mines could, therefore, have taken place from the old States in that year.  The number of miners was, consequently, limited to the population of the Territory--some five hundred men from Oregon--Mexicans and other foreigners who happened to be in the country or came into it during the summer and autumn, and the Indians, who were employed by or sold their gold to the whites.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is supposed there were not far from 5,000 men employed in collecting gold during that season.  If we suppose they obtained an average of $1,000 each--which is regarded by well-informed persons as a low estimate--the aggregate amount will be $5,000,000.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Information of this discovery spread in all directions during the following winter; and, on the commencement of the dry season in 1849, people came into the territory from all quarters--from Chili, Peru, and other States on the Pacific coast of South America--from the west coast of Mexico--the Sandwich Islands, China and New Holland.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The emigration from the United States came in last, if we expect those who crossed the Isthmus of Panama, and went up the coast in steamers, and a few who sailed early on the voyage round Cape Horn.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The American emigration did not come in by sea, in much force, until July and August, and that overland did not begin to arrive until the last of August and first of September.  The Chilians and Mexican were early in the country.  In the month of July it is supposed there were fifteen thousand foreigners in the mines.  At a place called Sonorian Camp, it is believed there were at least ten thousand Mexicans.  Hotels, restaurants, stores and shops of all descriptions, furnished whatever money could procure.  Ice was brought from the Sierra, and ice-creams added to numerous other luxuries.  An inclosure made of the trunks and branches of trees, and lined with cotton cloth, served as a sort of amphitheatre for bull-fights; other amusements characteristic of the Mexicans were seen in all directions.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The foreigners resorted principally to the southern mines, which gave them a great superiority in numerical force over the Americans, and enabled them to take possession of some of the richest in that part of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>It is not probable that during the first part of the season there were more than five or six thousand Americans in the mines.  This would swell the whole number, including foreigners, to about twenty thousand the beginning of September.  This period embraced  about half of the season during which gold may be successfully collected in the rivers.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Very particular and extensive inquiries respecting the daily earnings and acquisitions of the miners lead to the opinion that they averaged an ounce per day.  This is believed by many to be a low estimate; but from the best information I was able to procure, I am of opinion that it approaches very near actual results.  The half of the season, up to the 1st of September, would give sixty-five working days, and to each laborer, at $16 per ounce, $1,040.  If, therefore, we assume $1,000 as the average collected by each laborer, we shall probably not go beyond the mark.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This would give an aggregate of $20,000,000 for the first half of the season--15,000,000 of which was probably collected by foreigners.  During the last half of the season the number of foreigners was very much diminished, and, perhaps, did not exceed 5,000.  At this time the American immigration had come in by land and sea, and the number of our fellow-citizens in the mines had, as was estimated, increased to between 40,000 and 50,000.  They were most of them inexperienced in mining, and it is probable the results of their labors were not as great as has been estimated for the first part of the season and experienced miners, assuming that the average of half an ounce per day ought to be considered as reasonable, it would give an aggregate of about $20,000,000.  If from this we deduct one-fourth on account of the early commencement of the wet season, we have an estimate of $15,000,000; at least five of which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>These estimates give, as the result of the operation in the mines for 1848 and 1849, the round sum of $40,000,000--one half of which was probably collected and carried out of the country by foreigners.</P>
123.sgm:<P>From the best information I could obtain, I am led to believe that at least $20,000,000 of the $40,000,000 were taken from the rivers, and that their richness has not been sensibly diminished, except in a few locations, which had early attracted large bodies of miners.  This amount has principally been taken from the northern rivers, or those which empty into the Sacramento; the southern rivers, or those which flow into the San Joaquin, having been, comparatively, but little resorted to until near the close of the last season.  These rivers are, however, believed, by those who have visited them, to be richer in the precious metal than those in the northern part of the gold region.</P>
123.sgm:<P>There is one river which, from <HI REND="italics">reported</HI>
123.sgm: recent discoveries, and not included in the description of those flowing into the great plain west of the Sierra Nevada, is as rich in gold as any of them.  That is the <HI REND="italics">Trinity</HI>
123.sgm:<P>There are, as nearly as my recollection serves me, twelve principal rivers in which gold has been found; but most of the $20,000,000 in the above estimate was taken from six or seven of them, where it was first discovered and most accessible.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Adopting the hypothesis that the gold found in the beds of these streams has been cut or worn from the veins in the quartz through which they have forced their way, and considering the fact that they are <HI REND="italics">all rich</HI>
123.sgm:<P>If we may be allowed to form a conjecture respecting the richness of these veins from the quantity of lump or coarse gold found in the dry diggings, where it appears to occupy nearly the same superfices it did originally in the rock--its specific gravity being sufficient to resist <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>The gold region of California having attracted a large share of public attention, it was to be expected that various suggestions and propositions would be made with respect to the proper mode of disposing of it.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The difficulty in arranging a suitable plan has been the want of accurate information on which a well considered opinion might be formed.  Its distance from the seat of government, the conflicting statements and reports respecting it, served only to bewilder and mystify the public mind, and render a thorough examination of it necessary, to ascertain whether its value is such as to render legislation necessary for its proper protection and management.</P>
123.sgm:<P>If it appears, from the preceding part of this report, that it is sufficiently important to require laws suited to the condition and development of its wealth, we are necessarily brought to the consideration of the proper rules and regulations to be adopted for that purpose.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The survey and sale of that section of country, under our present land system, or any other mode which may be devised, would, undoubtedly, cause very serious discontent among those who have gone, and all who may desire to go there to collect gold, and a most unnecessary and unavoidable inequality in the distribution of wealth among the purchasers.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Sections and parts of sections of land, having no indications of gold on the surface, but possessing untold treasures in the bowels of the earth, might be sold for what would be a mere trifle in comparison of their real value.  Capitalists would overbid the daring, strong-armed day-laborer, who had braved the storms of Cape Horn, or the privations of a journey across the plains; and, by the power and combination of resources, would possess themselves of the most valuable mines which have been discovered, and employ skillful miners to examine the country with as much secrecy as possible, for the purpose of making such discoveries as would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>It is much easier to imagine than describe the discontent, perhaps disorder, which would spring up among an hundred thousand freemen deprived the privilege of an equal enjoyment of, or participation in, what they have been in the habit of regarding as the common property of the people of the whole Union.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is, perhaps, more than doubtful whether such laws could be enforced.  The employment of troops for that purpose would not only be odious, but ineffectual; they would be more likely to set an example of insubordination, by desertion, than to compel obedience in others.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The people would unite with them in producing anarchy and confusion.  No system, therefore, which is not in accordance with the interests of the people can be carried into successful operation.  It is always fortunate when laws can be so framed as to harmonize those interests with the policy and duty of the government.  It is believed that may be accomplished in this case.</P>
123.sgm:<P>While every American citizen in the mines is aware that he is on government property, and would consider any attempt to drive him away as an act of oppression, he at the same time feels that something is due from him for the privilege he enjoys, and he would willingly pay a reasonable sum to have those privileges defined, and to be protected in the enjoyment of them.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The gold in the rivers, the dry diggings and the ravines is accessible to any man who has the strength to use a pan or washer, a spade and pick-ax.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The employment of machinery may perhaps facilitate its collection, but it is not essential.  Every man is master of his own movements.  The case will be very different with the vein-mines, which yet remain in the rock.  To work them successfully will require machinery, with horse or steam power, involving an expenditure of capital in proportion to the extent of the operations.</P>
123.sgm:<P>No prudent man will make such investments until his rights and privileges shall have been clearly defined by law.  In the absence of all legal regulations, if a man were to discover a vein-mine and incur the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>There is some fertile soil in the gold region--beautiful valleys and rich hill sides--which, under circumstances favorable to agriculture, would undoubtedly be valuable for that purpose; but at present, and as long as the collection of gold shall continue to reward labor so much more abundantly than the cultivation of the soil, the important matter to be considered is, the proper mode of disposing of the metallic wealth of the country.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The first step, in my opinion, should be to reserve the entire region where gold is found, from the operation of the pre-emption laws, and from sale, so that it may be now regarded as the <HI REND="italics">common treasure</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Let the office of the commissioner be established at some point convenient to the mines, say Sacramento Cicy, and the offices of his assistant on the principal rivers, and in the most productive districts.  Provide that any and every American citizen, on application at the office of the commissioner, or any of his assistants, and by paying one ounce, or $16, or such sum as may be considered just and proper, shall be entitled to receive a license or permit to dig anywhere in the Territory for one year.  Provide, also, that any one who shall <HI REND="italics">discover</HI>
123.sgm: or purchase of the discoverer, a vein-mine, shall be entitled to work it, to a certain extent, under proper regulations, on paying to the commissioner such per cent. on the proceeds of the mine as may be a suitable tax on the privileges granted.  It will be necessary also to allow the miner to cut and use such timber and other building materials as his business requires; and, also, to allow those who work under permits the privilege of erecting cabins for shelter through the winter.  Authorize the commissioner to lay out sites for the towns in convenient situations to the mines, and offer the lots for sale, reserving the metals and mineral, so that those who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>I have suggested one ounce or $16 as the price of a permit or license to dig or collect gold for one year.  This I regard as about the average value of one day's labor in the mines.  This tax on 50,000 miners, the probable number next summer, will give a revenue of $800,000.  On 100,000 miners--the probable number of 1851--it will give $1,600,000, beside the per centum on the vein-mines, and the sum received for town lots, timbers, &amp;c.,&amp;, which would probably swell the amount to at least $2,000,000.  Any variation in the tax imposed will, of course, increase or diminish this estimate.</P>
123.sgm:<P>A suitable amount of the money thus collected should be expended in constructing roads and bridges, to facilitate communication to and through the mining districts.</P>
123.sgm:<P>These facilities will so reduce the cost of living in the mines, that the miners will instead of lose by paying the tax.  These are accommodations which the miners themselves will ever provide, because of the want of concert of action among them sufficient to accomplish such objects, but for which they will willingly pay any moderate contribution.  A liberal per centum should be allowed out of this sum, as a school fund, and for the establishment of an university to educate the youth of California.  Let it not be considered that this will be doing injustice to the older States of the Union.  They will reap a harvest sufficiently rich in their intercourse with their younger sister on the Pacific to justify the most liberal course of policy toward her.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I have given $20,000,000 as the probable revenue for 1851, under the proposed system.  This would discharge the interest on the amount stipulated in the treaty to be paid to Mexico for California and New Mexico, provide $300,000 per annum for a school fund, and the necessary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>An increase of the number of miners, or of the price of permits, would of course increase the revenue.  If the vein-mines shall be found as extensive and productive as the best-informed persons suppose, the right to work them, properly secured by law, and the opportunity thus offered of using machinery to advantage, will justify the collection of a much larger per cent. on their gross product than it is proposed to require from those who labor with their own hands in the use of the simple means now employed in the collection of gold.  The amount, therefore, collected from this source may ultimately be as large, perhaps larger, than that for permits.</P>
123.sgm:<P>If revenue is an object, there can be little doubt that, by the adoption of this system, the amount collected in a few years will be larger than the entire district would command in ready money, if offered for sale; and the interests and privileges of those employed in the mines will be secured from the grasping and monopolizing spirit of individual proprietors; California and the whole Union preserved from scenes of anarchy and confusion, if not bloodshed, which must result from a sale of the mining region to speculators, and an attempt to protect them in the enjoyment of their purchases.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The salaries of the commissioner and his assistants may easily be paid out of the amount received, in fixed sums, or in the form of a per centum.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I have proposed to exclude foreigners from the privilege of purchasing permits, and from working as discoverers or purchasers in the vein-mines.  My reasons for recommending this policy are, that these mines belong to, and in my judgment should be preserved for, the use and benefit of the American people.  I mean, of course, all citizens, native and adopted.</P>
123.sgm:<P>During the mining season of 1849, more than 15,000 foreigners, mostly Mexicans and Chilenos, came in <HI REND="italics">armed bands</HI>
123.sgm: into the mining district, bidding defiance to all opposition, and finally carrying out of the country some $20,000,000 worth of gold dust, which belonged <HI REND="italics">by purchase</HI>
123.sgm: to the people of the United States.  If not excluded by law, they will return and recommence the work of plunder.  They may, with as much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>This system of permits will make all who purchase them <HI REND="italics">police officers, to aid in excluding</HI>
123.sgm:<P>The commerce of the country would be protected from the disastrous consequences resulting from the abandonment of ships by their crews, which necessarily imposes a heavy tax on consumers, because merchants, as a measure of self-protection, must charge such losses on their cargoes, and consequently they fall on those who purchase.  The army and navy would be saved from demoralization, and prepared for service in case of necessity.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Many of the emigrants to California, especially those from the western States, will remain and form a resident population; but there will be thousands and tens of thousands of young and middle-aged working-men from all parts of the Union, who will resort to the mines for the purpose of obtaining the means to purchase a farm or establish themselves in some favorite pursuit, and as soon as they have secured a sufficient amount will return, and their places, will be supplied by others who will go and do likewise.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This process has already commenced.  Many who went out last spring have returned with an ample reward for their labors and privations  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">quicksilver mines</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Discoveries of other mines are reported, but no certain information respecting them has been made public.  It is, undoubtedly, a fortunate circumstance that nature, in bestowing on California such vast metallic treasure, has provided, almost in its immediate neighborhood, inexhaustible stores of quicksilver, which is so essential in gold mining.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The policy of government with respect to these mines of cinnabar should, in my opinion, be quite different from that which I have felt it my duty to suggest for the management of the gold region.</P>
123.sgm:<P>As soon as the necessary explorations can be made, and proper information obtained, it will be well to offer these mines for sale, and commit their development to the hands of private enterprise.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is believed that there are extensive beds of silver, iron, and copper ores, in the Territory; but there is no information sufficiently accurate respecting them, to justify any statement of their existence or value.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I have already alluded to the propriety of establishing a mint in California.  This is important in many respects.  At this time there is not coin to supply a currency.  Much difficulty is experienced in procuring enough to pay the duties on foreign goods.  The common circulating medium is, therefore, gold dust, which is sold at $15 50 to $16 per ounce.  In the mines it is frequently sold much lower.  The miners, the laboring men, are the sufferers from this state of things.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Those who purchase and ship gold to the Atlantic States make large profits;<HI REND="italics"> but those who dig lose what others make</HI>
123.sgm:<P>I have estimated that there will be $5,000,000 collected during the current year.  At $16 per ounce, that sum will weigh 3,125,000 ounces.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Gold at the United States Mint is worth $18 per ounce, making a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>I have also suggested its importance as a means of promoting and increasing our trade with the west coast of Mexico and South America.</P>
123.sgm:<P>It is not doubted that the construction of a railway across the Isthmus of Panama, and perhaps the establishment of other lines of communication between the two oceans, will give to the products and manufactures of the older States of the Union command of the market of California to the exclusion, in a great degree, of those of the west coast.</P>
123.sgm:<P>A mint will therefore become of the utmost importance, to give such marketable value to silver bullion as to enable the merchants of those countries to keep up and increase their intercourse with our principal ports on the Pacific.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The silver bullion shipped to Europe from the west coast of Mexico amounts to more than ten millions of dollars per annum.  From the countries on the west coast of South America, probably and equal quantity.  That from Mexico goes to pay for European importations into her ports on the Atlantic side.</P>
123.sgm:<P>A market at San Francisco for this bullion will be the means of substituting American and Chinese fabrics for those of European manufacture in all those countries.  This will greatly increase the trade between China and California.</P>
123.sgm:<P>I have the honor to be, with great respect, your most obedient servant,<HSEP>[Signed]</P>
123.sgm:<P>T. BUTLER KING.</P>
123.sgm:<P>To Hon. JOHN M. CLAYTON, Secretary of State.</P>
123.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<DIV><AD><HSEP><P>155 BROADWAY, NEW-YORK,</P>
123.sgm:<P>G. P. PUTNAM'S</P>
123.sgm:<P>NEW PUBLICATIONS.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Travels, Adventures, and Discoveries.</P>
123.sgm:<P>IN THE EAST.</P>
123.sgm:<P><illus entity="a123-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
123.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Nineveh and its Remains</HI>
123.sgm:<P>With an Account of a Visit to the Chald&aelig;an Christians of Kurdistan, and the Yezidis, or Devil-Worshippers; and an Inquiry into the Manners  and Arts of the Ancient Assyrians.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY AUSTEN HENRY LAYARD, ESQ., D.C.L.</P>
123.sgm:<P>WITH INTRODUCTORY NOTE BY PROF. E. ROBINSON, D.D., LL. D. ustrated with 13 Plates and Maps, and 90 Woodcuts.  2 vols. 8vo.  Cloth.  $4 50.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"We cannot doubt it will find its way into the hands of scholars and thinkers at once, and we shall be surprised if it does not prove to be one of the most popular, as it certainly is one of the most useful issues of the season."-- <HI REND="italics">Evangelist</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"As a record of discoveries it is equally wonderful and important; confirming in many particulars the incidental histories of Sacred Writ, disentombing temple-palaces from the sepulchre of ages, and recovering the metropolis of a wonderful nation from the long night of oblivion."-- <HI REND="italics">Com Advertiser</HI>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Nineveh and its Remains</HI>
123.sgm:<P><illus entity="a123-0002" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
123.sgm:"Taking this only as a book of travels, we have read none for a long time more interesting and instructive."-- <HI REND="italics">Quarterly Review</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"We repeat that there has been no such picture in any modern book of travels.  Park is not braver or more adventurous, Burkhardt is not more truthful, Eothen not more gay or picturesque than the hero of the book before us."-- <HI REND="italics">London Examiner</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"This is, we think, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY WORK OF THE PRESENT AGE, whether with reference to the wonderful discoveries it describes, its remarkable verification of our early biblical history, or of the talent, courage, and perseverance of its author. ****** We will only add in conclusion, that in these days, when the fulfilment of prophecy is engaging so much attention, we cannot but consider that the work of Mr. Layard will be found to afford many extraordinary proofs of biblical history."-- <HI REND="italics">London Times</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"Of the historical value of his discoveries, too high an estimate can hardly be formed."-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Recorder</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"It has been truly said, that the narrative is like a romance.  In its incidents and descriptions it does indeed remind one continually of an Arabian tale of wonders and genii."-- <HI REND="italics">Dr. Robinson in Introductory Note</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The work of Mr. Layard has two prominent and distinct characters.  Its narration of wonderful discoveries is of high and absorbing interest; but as a book of modern travels, abounding in living and piquant descriptions of the manners and habits of a people always regarded with intense interest, it is second to none."-- <HI REND="italics">Democratic Review</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The book has a rare amount of graphic, vivid, picturesque narrative."-- <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The work of Layard is the most prominent contribution to the study of Antiquity, that has appeared for many years."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Inquirer</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"Not one excels in interest the account of Nineveh and its Ruins, given by Mr. Layard."-- <HI REND="italics">Washington Intelligencer</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"As we follow the diggers with breathless interest in their excavations, and suddenly find ourselves before a massive figure carved with minute accuracy, now lifting its gigantic head from the dust of 3000 years, we are ready to cry out with the astonished Arabs, `Wallah, it is wonderful, but it is true!'"-- <HI REND="italics">Independent</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Egypt and Its Monuments</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY FRANCIS L. HAWKS, D.D., LL.D., &amp;c., &amp;c.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Illustrated with Engravings from the Works of CHAMPOLLION, ROSELLINI, WILKINSON, and others, and Architectural Views of the Principal Temples, &amp;c.  One vol. 8vo, uniform with `Layard's Nineveh.'</P>
123.sgm:<P>This work presents a comprehensive and authentic, and at the same time popular view of all that has been brought to light by modern travellers, illustrative of the manners and customs, arts, architecture, and domestic life of the ancient Egyptians--with reference to other ancient remains in the "Old and New World."</P>
123.sgm:<P>The following are some of the architectural illustrations, beautifully executed in (int. by Sarony &amp; Major:--</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sphinx and Pyramids,<HSEP>Interior of a Tomb</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Great Temple of Karnac,<HSEP>Koom--Ombos</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Statues of Memnon, Thebes,<HSEP>Interior of Great Temple</HI>
123.sgm:,<HSEP></P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Abco-Simbel</HI>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Egypt and its Monuments</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Or, Egypt a Witness for the Bible.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY FRANCIS L. HAWKS, D.D., LL.D., &amp;c, &amp;c.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Illustrated with Engravings from the works of Champollion, Rosellini, Wilkinson, and others; and Architectural Views of the principal Temples, &amp;c. 1 vol. 8vo, uniform with "Layard's Nineveh," cloth, $2 50; half mor. gilt edges, $3 50.</P>
123.sgm:<P>SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"It will have a lively interest; not for the Bible student only, but for all who take interest in historical research."-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Com. Advertiser</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"A valuable contribution to our Sacred Literature."-- <HI REND="italics">Newark Daily Advertiser</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"It supplies a desideratum in the Literature of the Bible."-- <HI REND="italics">Buffalo Commercial</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"An intelligible, true, and readable book on Egypt, beyond what the experiences of a single traveller could furnish the materials of."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Transcript</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The volume will constitute a valuable addition to Christian Literature."-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Recorder</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The volume of Dr. Hawks will be welcomed by many readers as a valuable contribution to the stock of information, hitherto to be obtained only in the costly volumes of Wilkinson and others.  There probably exists no other volume of the same size containing so much information on Egypt."-- <HI REND="italics">Cambridge Chronicle</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The volume is intensely interesting, and will abundantly repay a careful perusal."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Alliance</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The entire work is filled with most instructive facts, gathered from recent discoveries in monumental literature, valuable alike to the theological student and general reader."-- <HI REND="italics">Universalist Review</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"In the treatment of this subject, Dr. Hawks's admirable faculty of lucid arrangement and distinct statement has full play; and he proceeds, too, with a calm confidence of the strength of his positions, that cannot fail to inspire his readers--such of them especially as have been somewhat startled by the bold assertions of the infidel school of Egyptologists and their train of ignorant imitators--with a similar confidence."-- <HI REND="italics">Methodist Quarterly Review</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The East</HI>
123.sgm:; <LB>Or, Sketches of Travel in Egypt and the Holy Land.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY REV. J. A. SPENCER, M.A.,</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Editor of the New Testament in Greek, with English Notes.  Member of the New-York Historical Society, &amp;c., &amp;c</HI>
123.sgm:<P>CONTENTS.</P>
123.sgm:<P>EGYPT.--Alexandria.--The Nile and the Pyramids.--The Pyramids and their Builders.--Life on the Nile.--Philae, Syene, Elephantine, Esneh.--Necropolis of Thebes.--Luxor and Karnak.--Dendera, Es-siout, Beni-hassan.--The Metropolis of Egypt.--Mosks, Citadel, Heliopolis.--Coptic Church, Public Men and Events.</P>
123.sgm:<P>THE HOLY LAND.--Life in the Desert.--Palestina, the Hill Country.--The Holy City.--Gethsemane, the Mount of Olives.--Calvary and the Holy Sepulchre.--Bethlehem and its Vicinity--The Dead Sea and the Jordan.--Judea, Samaria, Jacob's Well, Nabulus.--Sebaste, Tabor Tiberias, Nazareth.--Mount Carmel, St. Jean d'Acre, Tyre.--Sidon, Beirut and its Vicinity.--Appendix, Notes, &amp;c.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Visits to Monasteries in the Levant</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY THE HON. ROBERT CURZON.</P>
123.sgm:<P>One vol., post 8vo.  Illustrated with 17 spirited Engravings.  $1 50.</P>
123.sgm:<P>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monastery of Meteora</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Interior of Greek Monastery</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Koord, or Native of Koordistan</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Negress waiting to be sold</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Bedouin Arab</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Egyptian in Nizam Dress</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Interior of Abyssinian Library</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Mendicant Dervish</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Church of Holy Sepulchre</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monastery of St. Barlaam</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tartar, or Government Messenger</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Turkish Common Soldier</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Promontory of Mount Athos</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Greek Sailor</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monastery of Simo-Petri</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Circassian Lady</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Turkish Lady</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"A volume of more than ordinary interest, relating a series of most curious and often amusing adventures.  ***The field occupied by the volume is almost entirely new."-- <HI REND="italics">Commercial Advertiser</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"A very curious and unique work.  We recommend it to those who are fond of cheerful incident of travel, through lands possessing the greatest interest."-- <HI REND="italics">Washington Union</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"His wanderings in the Levant extend over a period of nearly ten years, abounding in adventures, many of them attended with extreme peril, which are told with inimitable naivete&acute; and skill.  ***There is an elegance and picturesque simplicity in his language equally rare and delightful.  The book is profusely illustrated by wood engravings in the highest style of art, executed in London.  It is issued simultaneously with Murray's English edition, and the author receives his share of the profits arising from its sale here."-- <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Oriental Life Illustrated</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Being a new Edition of "Eo&die;then, or, Traces of Travel brought Home from the East."  Illustrated with fine Steel Engravings, viz., TRAVELLING IN THE DESERT, LUXOR, KARNAC, NAZARETH, THE PYRAMIDS.  12mo, cloth, extra gilt, $1 50.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"Nothing so sparkling, so graphic, so truthful in sentiment, and so poetic in vein, has issued from the press in many a day."-- <HI REND="italics">London Critic</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Journey from Cornhill to Cairo</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY MICHAEL ANGELO TITMARSH.</P>
123.sgm:<P>One vol. 12mo, green cloth, 50 cts.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"It is wonderful what a description of people and things, what numerous pictures, what innumerable remarks and allusions it contains."-- <HI REND="italics">Douglas Jerrold's Magazine</HI>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Adventures in the Lybian Desert</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY BAYLE ST. JOHN</P>
123.sgm:<P>12mo, cloth, 75 cts.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"It is a very graphic and amusing description of the scenery and antiquities, and of the people whom he saw."-- <HI REND="italics">Washington Union</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"Though written with an eye to antiquarian lore, there is no want of liveliness in the personal adventures of the author."-- <HI REND="italics">Albion</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"A most interesting book."-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Recorder</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"It will be read through by those who reach the middle of the first chapter."-- <HI REND="italics">Albany Journal</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"It is a spirited description of the adventures of the author among the Bedouin Arabs."-- <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Eo&die;then</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Or, Traces of Travel brought Home from the East.  12mo, green cloth, 50 cents.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"Eo&die;then is a book with which every body, fond of elegant prose and racy description, should be well acquainted."-- <HI REND="italics">U.S. Gazette</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The best book of Eastern travels we know."-- <HI REND="italics">London Examiner</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Crescent and the Cross</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Or, the Romance and Reality of Eastern Travel.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY ELLIOT WARBURTON.</P>
123.sgm:<P>One vol. 12mo, green cloth, $1 25</P>
123.sgm:<P>"This delightful work is, from first to last, a splendid Panorama of Eastern scenery, in the full blaze of its magnificence."-- <HI REND="italics">London Morning News</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"A brilliant, poetic, and yet most instructive book."-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Courier &amp; Enquirer</HI>
123.sgm:<P>In South America.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Travels in Peru</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY DR. J. J. VON TSCHUDI.</P>
123.sgm:<P>1 vol. 12mo, cloth, $1 00.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"Braving the dangers of a land where throat-cutting is a popular pastime, and earthquakes and fevers more or less yellow, and vermin more or less venomous are amongst the indigenous comforts of the aoil, a German, of high reputation as a naturalist and man of letters, has devoted four years of a life valuable to science to a residence and travels in the most interesting districts of South America, the ancient empire of the Incas, the scene of the conquests and cruelties of Francisco Pizarro."</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>Travels, Adventures, and Discoveries.</P>
123.sgm:<P>IN THE WEST.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">California and Oregon Trail</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Being Sketches of Prairie and Rocky Mountain Life.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY FRANCIS PARKMAN, JR.</P>
123.sgm:<P>With Illustrations by Darley.  12mo. cloth, $1 25.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"Written with the genuine inspiration of untamed nature."-- <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"A lively and well written account of divers adventures on mountains and plains, deserts and rivers in the Indian Country."-- <HI REND="italics">Churchman</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"A series of graphic and apparently reliable sketches."-- <HI REND="italics">Albion</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"Agreeably designed and ably executed."-- <HI REND="italics">Home Journal</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"One of the few books from which we can obtain any thing like accurate information of the character of the country between the Mississippi and the Pacific.  As descriptive of a race fast passing away, and of the wild and wonderful country from which they are perishing, and through which the march of civilization is forcing its way, to the dazzling treasures of the Pacific borders, the work is attractive, and is got up in a style and character of most of the publications of Mr. Putnam.  The cuts are very admirable specimens of the high perfection to which engraving on wood has arrived."-- <HI REND="italics">Democratic Review</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Astoria</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Or, Anecdotes of an Enterprise beyond the Rocky Mountains.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY WASHINGTON IRVING.</P>
123.sgm:<P>With Map.  12mo. $1 50.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"A beautiful edition of Irving's highly graphic and stirring sketch of the early enterprises of John Jacob Astor, which will now be read with even more interest than when first written."-- <HI REND="italics">Evangelist</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"It is one of those rare works which belongs, by the value of its subject and the truthfulness of its details, to authentic history, and by its vivid descriptions, and exciting incidents to the more varied province of Romance."-- <HI REND="italics">Albany Atlas</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"Loses nothing of its interest by the late discoveries, &amp;c., beyond the Rocky Mountains."-- <HI REND="italics">Recorder</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"One of Irving's most valuable works.<HSEP>Still fresh, instructive and entertaining."-- <HI REND="italics">Holden's Magazine</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Tour on the Prairies</HI>
123.sgm:<P>With Abbottsford and Newstead Abbey.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY WASHINGTON IRVING.</P>
123.sgm:<P>12mo. $1 25.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"Its perusal leaves a positive sense of refreshment, which we should think would make the book invaluable to the thousands of mortals whose lives are bound up with ledgers and cash books."  <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Delightful reading for a leisure hour."-- <HI REND="italics">Albany Atlas</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Adventures of Capt. Bonneville, U.S.A</HI>
123.sgm:<P>In the Rocky Mountains and the Far West.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY WASHINGTON IRVING.</P>
123.sgm:<P>12mo, with a valuable Map.  $1 25.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"Full of wild and exciting incidents of frontier and savage life."-- <HI REND="italics">Providence Journal</HI>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>Travels, Adventures, &amp;c.--Europe.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Genius of Italy</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Being Sketches of Italian Life, Literature, and Religion.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY REV. ROBERT TURNBULL,</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Author of "The Genius of Scotland</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Third edition.  1 vol. 12mo, $1; illustrated edition, cloth, gilt, $2.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The edition with extra illustrations, handsomely bound, will be ready in the autumn.  "Mr. Turnbull gives us the orange groves,</P>
123.sgm:<P>and the fountains, and the gondolas, and the frescoes d the ruins, with touches of personal adventure, and sketches of biography, and glimpses of the life, literature, and religion of Modern Italy, seen with the quick, comprehensive glances of an American traveller, impulsive, inquisitive, and enthusiastic.  His book is a pleasant record of a tourist's impressions, without the infliction of the tiresome minuti&aelig; of his everyday experience."-- <HI REND="italics">Literary World</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"At a moment when Italy is about to be regenerated--when the long-slumbering spirit of the people is about assuming its ancient vigor, a work of this kind is desirable.***The country, its people, and prominent features are given with much truth and force."-- <HI REND="italics">Democratic Review</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Views A-Foot</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Or, Europe seen with Knapsack and Staff.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY BAYARD TAYLOR.</P>
123.sgm:<P>New edition, with an additional Chapter of Practical Information for Pedestrians in Europe, and a Sketch of the Author in Pedestrian Costume, from a Drawing by T. Buchanan Read.  12mo., cloth, $1 25. </P>
123.sgm:<P>The same, fancy cloth, gilt extra, $1 75.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"There is a freshness and force in the book altogether unusual in a book of travels.  **As a text-book for travellers the work is essentially valuable; it tells how much can be accomplished with very limited means, when energy, curiosity, and a love of adventure are the prompters; sympathy in his success likewise, is another source of interest to the book.  ***The result of all this is, a wide-spread popularity as a writer, a very handsomely printed book, with a very handsome portrait of the author, and we congratulate him upon the attainment of this and future honors."-- <HI REND="italics">Union Magazine</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Spaniards, and their Country</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY RICHARD FORD.</P>
123.sgm:<P>12mo, green cloth.  $1 00.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"The best English book, beyond comparison, that ever has appeared for the illustration, not merely of the general topography and local curiosities, but of the national character and manners of Spain."-- <HI REND="italics">Quarterly Review</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"This is a very clever and amusing work."-- <HI REND="italics">Louisville Exam</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The style is light, dashing, and agreeable."-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Mirror</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Washington Irving commends this as the best modern popular account of Spain.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Scenes and Thoughts in Europe</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY AN AMERICAN.</P>
123.sgm:<P>(Geo. H. Calvert, Esq., Baltimore.)  12mo. 50 cts.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"This book is a delightful instance of the transforming and recreative power of the mind upon every thing it touches.  The most hackneyed ground of Europe, persons and objects that have been the theme for the last half dozen years of every literary remittance from abroad, appear to us clothed with new charms and meanings, because examined with a finer penetration than they have been by any other English or American traveller."-- <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>History--Biography--Geography.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Life and Voyages of Christopher Columbus</HI>
123.sgm:<P>To which are added those of his Companions.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY WASHINGTON IRVING.</P>
123.sgm:<P>New Edition, Revised and Corrected.  Maps, Plates, and copious Index.  3 vols.  12mo, green cloth uniform with the new edition of Irving's Works, $4; half calf, $6; half morocco, top edge gilt, $6 75; full calf, gilt, $7 50.  The OCTAVO EDITION, in 3 vols., on superfine paper, uniform with Prescott's Ferdinand and Isabella, $6; half calf, $8 50; full calf, $10.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"One of the most fascinating and intensely interesting books in the whole compass of English Literature.***It has all the interest conferred by the truth of history, and at the same time the varied excitement of a well written romance."-- <HI REND="italics">Western Continent</HI>
123.sgm:.</P><P>"Perhaps the most truly valuable of the Author's writings."-- <HI REND="italics">Home Journal</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The History of Columbus is admirably executed; and though a true and faithful history, it is as interesting as a high wrought romance."</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Conquest of Florida</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY THEODORE IRVING.  <HI REND="italics">Prof. of History and Belles Letters in the Free Academy</HI>
123.sgm:<P>New and Revised Edition, Corrected, with Notes, and Illustrations from various recent sources.  12mo.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Monuments of Central and Western America</HI>
123.sgm:<P>With Comparative Notices of those in Egypt, India, Assyria, &amp;c.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY REV. F. L. HAWKS, D.D., LL. D.</P>
123.sgm:<P>1 vol. 8vo.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This work is now in preparation, uniform with "Nineveh," and the "Monuments of Egypt."  It will comprise a comprehensive, readable, and popular view of the whole subject of Ancient remains on the American continent--with ample Illustrations.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Ancient Monuments of the Mississippi Valley</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Comprising the Results of Extensive Original Surveys and Explorations.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY E. G. SQUIER, A.M., AND E. H. DAVIS, M.D.</P>
123.sgm:<P>With numerous Illustrations.  Royal 4to, $10.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Ten Years of American History</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY EMMA WILLARD.</P>
123.sgm:<P>With a valuable Map.  12mo, $1.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Italy; Past and Present</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY L. MARIOTTI, <HI REND="italics">Prof. of Italian Literature in London University</HI>
123.sgm:<P>2 vols., 8vo, cloth, $3 50.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Letters and Speeches of Oliver Cromwell</HI>
123.sgm:<P>With Elucidations.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY THOS. CARLYLE.</P>
123.sgm:<P>The Fine Edition, in 2 vols., Octavo, with Portrait.  Reduced to $2 50.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Borrow's Autobiography.--Lavengro</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY GEORGE BORROW, <HI REND="italics">Author of "The Gipsies of Spain," "The Bible in Spain</HI>
123.sgm:," <HI REND="italics">&amp;c.</HI>
123.sgm:<P>To be published simultaneously by JOHN MURRAY, London, and G. P. PUTNAM, New-York.  In one volume, 12mo.</P>
123.sgm:<P>This will be a work of intense interest, including extraordinary adventures in various parts of the world.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Johnston's Universal Atlas</HI>
123.sgm:<P>This splendid and important work--by far the most comprehensive, correct and useful Atlas now extant, was published recently in Edinburgh at the price of eight guineas, and the price in this country has been about $50.  G. P. Putnam has made arrangements for an edition for the United States, rendered far more valuable by the addition of a COPIOUS and USEFUL INDEX of about 40,000 names; but the maps being transferred in facsimile on stone, the American publisher is enabled to supply it at the low price of $20--elegantly and substantially bound in half morocco, gilt edges.  The maps are clearly and beautifully executed, and are practically fully equal to the original edition.  The work contains 41 large and splendid maps.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"Having examined many of the Maps of the National Atlas, I have no hesitation in saying, that they are as accurate in their geographical details as they are beautiful in their execution."-- <HI REND="italics">Sir David Brewster</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Historical Studies</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY GEORGE WASHINGTON GREENE, ESQ., <HI REND="italics">Late Consul of the U.S. at Rome</HI>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The World's Progress</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Or, A Record of Remarkable Occurrences, Political, Literary, and Scientific, in the Annals of all Nations.  In two Divisions.  I.  Contemporary Tables.  II.  Alphabetical Records.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY G. P. PUTNAM.</P>
123.sgm:<P>New edition, revised and enlarged.  1 vol. 8vo.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>THE LIBERTY OF ROME; A HISTORY.</P>
123.sgm:<P>With an Historical account of the Liberty of ancient Nations.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY SAMUEL ELIOT, ESQ.</P>
123.sgm:<P>2 vols. 8vo, cloth, and illustrated with 12 Plates.  $4 50.</P>
123.sgm:<P>LIST OF PLATES.</P>
123.sgm:<P>1.  Allegorical.</P>
123.sgm:<P>2.  Homer singing on the Chian strand.</P>
123.sgm:<P>3.  Bust of Socrates.</P>
123.sgm:<P>4.  Imaginary View of Early Rome.</P>
123.sgm:<P>5.  Bust of Pythagoras.</P>
123.sgm:<P>6.  The Secession of the People to Mons Sacer.</P>
123.sgm:<P>7.  The meeting of Camillus and Marlius after the retreat of the  Gauls.</P>
123.sgm:<P>8.  Bust of Marcus Tullius Cicero.</P>
123.sgm:<P>9.  The Triumph of Quintus Fabius.</P>
123.sgm:<P>10.  Caius Gracchus weeping before his Father's Statue.</P>
123.sgm:<P>11.  Cicero denouncing Catiline.</P>
123.sgm:<P>12.  Bust of Lucius Junius Brutus.</P>
123.sgm:<P>OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.</P>
123.sgm:<P>"Mr. Elliot's aim is an important one.  It is to indicate the kind and amount of liberty enjoyed by the ancient Romans.  He has formed a just conception of what is meant by the word liberty, which is too often confounded with mere forms of government, at best but its guards and supports.***The scale of the work is so extensive, that details necessarily disappear in any abridged statement of its contents, nor is it possible by extracts to convey an idea of the value and interest of the book.  To be appreciated it must be taken as a whole.  There are few salient passages.  But its general impression is in the highest degree healthy, conducive to the expansion of the mind, and calculated to enrich it with new and important ideas.  We are glad to receive from an American hand such a welcome contribution to our best order of Literature."-- <HI REND="italics">London Examiner</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"A work of high character and distinguished merit.  The author has brought to the performance of a task of such magnitude and difficulty, vast stores of erudition, a highly cultivated taste, a comprehensive and penetrating intellect, and a grave and sober judgment; qualities indispensable to one who would write such a history, and rarely to be found combined to the same extent in the same individual."-- <HI REND="italics">John Bull</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"We have had histories of Rome written by the scholar, by the credulous, and lately a history of it by the great historic skeptic, Niebuhr.  We had not yet one by a philosopher; we thank Mr. Eliot for having undertaken, and we may add, succeeded in his task.  This is a good and new book to the classic student and thinker."-- <HI REND="italics">Daily News</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"This remarkable book presents us with a view of liberty in a different and truer light than has been laid before us by any writer.  Extensive reading, a well balanced and philosophical mind, above all prejudice, could alone have fitted its author for producing a work which must take a high rank in American Literature, in its style as well as in its subject."-- <HI REND="italics">Providence Journal</HI>
123.sgm:<P>"The present volumes exhibit the evidence of many qualities essential to so large an enterprise in their accomplished author.  They are in the highest degree creditable to the conscientious fidelity of his researches, to his industry and power of persistent labor, to his acquaintance with the most authentic sources of ancient and modern learning, and to the extent and variety of his erudition, which is free from any tincture of pedantry or ostentation.-- <HI REND="italics">New-York Tribune</HI>
123.sgm:<DIV><AD><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>1</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>49 BOW LANE, LONDON.<HSEP>155 BROADWAY, NEW-YORK,</P>
123.sgm:<P>G. P. PUTNAM'S</P>
123.sgm:<P>LIST OF</P>
123.sgm:<P>NEW PUBLICATIONS</P>
123.sgm:<P>AND WORKS IN PREPARATION.</P>
123.sgm:<P>IMPORTATION OF FOREIGN BOOKS.</P>
123.sgm:<P>MR. PUTNAM'S BRANCH OF THE AMERICAN LITERARY AGENCY (established in 1838) is still continued by him in London, under the charge of MR. THOMAS DELF, an experienced and competent bibliographer.  MR. PUTNAM has also special agents in Paris, Brussels, Leipsic, and Leghorn, and can thus afford every facility to private persons, as well as to BOOKSELLERS and PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, for procuring <HI REND="italics">Books, Stationery, Maps, &amp;c.,</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Particular attention is given also to the procuring of OLD and SCARCE BOOKS, by means of advertising, &amp;c., &amp;c.  Mr. Putnam believes that his twelve years' experience in the execution of orders of all kinds, gives him advantages that are inferior to none, and which cannot fail to be appreciated by those who favor him with their business.</P>
123.sgm:<P>An order for a single volume will at all times receive the same careful attention as larger orders.  Any party preferring to correspond directly with the London house, will find his orders promptly attended to, provided they are addressed "T. DELF, <HI REND="italics">Putnam's American Agency, London</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BOOKS, &amp;c., DUTY FREE.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">By a recent Act of Congress</HI>
123.sgm:<P>N. B.--CATALOGUES of New Books published in London, with CHEAP LISTS, &amp;c., are put up <HI REND="italics">monthly</HI>
123.sgm:<P>ORDERS FORWARDED BY EVERY STEAMER; <HI REND="italics">and, if desired, and the books can be readily procured, they will be received by return steamer</HI>
123.sgm:<P>SUBSCRIPTIONS RECEIVED FOR PERIODICALS, NEWSPAPERS, &amp;c., PUBLISHED ABROAD.</P>
123.sgm:<P>Lists supplied on application.</P>
123.sgm:<P>A General Catalogue</P>
123.sgm:<P>OF A VERY EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF STANDARD WORKS IN EVERY DEPARTMENT OF LITERATURE, SCIENCE &amp; ART, INCLUDING FOREIGN AND AMERICAN PUBLICATIONS,</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Nearly Ready</HI>
123.sgm:<P>It will be sent gratis on application.</P>
123.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
123.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
123.sgm:<P>New Works--Now ready or in preparation.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Putnam's Library of American History</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY REV. F. L. HAWKS, D.D.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Optimist</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY H. T. TUCKERMAN, ESQ.</P>
123.sgm:<P>In one volume 12mo.  (In March.)</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A New Work on California</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY BAYARD TAYLOR, Author of "Views a-Foot," &amp;c, &amp;c.</P>
123.sgm:<P>With Illustrations by the Author.  In two volumes 12mo.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">New Researches at Nineveh</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY AUSTEN HENRY LAYARD, ESQ.</P>
123.sgm:<P>In one volume 8vo, uniform with "Nineveh and its Remains."</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">French and English Counting-House Manual</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Manual of Commercial Correspondence, English and French; or, A Selection of Commercial Phrases, taken from a number of Letters, Accounts, Catalogues, Prices Current, and other Papers.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY A MERCHANT.</P>
123.sgm:<P>In one volume 12mo, cloth.  (Now ready.)</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Elements of Trigonometry, Plane and Spherical</HI>
123.sgm:<P>Adapted to the present state of Analysis.  To which is added, their application to the principles of Navigation, Surveying, Nautical Astronomy, and Geodesy.  With Logarithmic, Trigonometrical, and Nautical Tables.  For the use of Colleges and Academies.  New Edition, greatly improved.</P>
123.sgm:<P>BY REV. C. W. HACKLEY, Professor of Mathematics in Columbia College, New-York.</P>
123.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Excursions in Europe and the United States</HI>
123.sgm:<P>BY WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT.</P>
123.sgm:<P>12mo, cloth.  (In April.)</P>
125.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-125</TITLE>
125.sgm:<TITLE>California.  Four months among the gold-finders, being the diary of an expedition from San Francisco to the gold districts.  By J. Tyrwhitt Brooks, M.D. [pseud.] What I saw in California, a description of its soil, climate, productions, and gold mines; with the best routes and latest information for intending emigrants. By Edwin Bryant, late alcade of San Francisco. To which is annexed, an appendix containing official documents and letters authenticating the accounts of the quantities of gold found, with its actual value ... With a map: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
125.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
125.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
125.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
125.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
125.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
125.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
125.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-765 //r27</LCCN>
125.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
125.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>574191</COPYRIGHT>
125.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA.</P>
125.sgm:<P>FOUR MONTHS AMONG THE GOLD-FINDERS,</P>
125.sgm:<P>BEING THE DIARY OF AN EXPEDITION</P>
125.sgm:<P>FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE GOLD DISTRICTS.</P>
125.sgm:<P>BY J. TYRWHITT BROOKS, M.D.</P>
125.sgm:<P>WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA;</P>
125.sgm:<P>A DESCRIPTION OF ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, AND GOLD MINES</P>
125.sgm:<P>WITH THE BEST ROUTES AND LATEST INFORMATION FOR INTENDING EMIGRANTS.</P>
125.sgm:<P>BY EDWIN BRYANT,</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Late Alcade of San Francisco</HI>
125.sgm:<P>TO WHICH IS ANNEXED, AN APPENDIX</P>
125.sgm:<P>CONTAINING OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS AND LETTERS AUTHENTICATING THE ACCOUNTS OF THE</P>
125.sgm:<P>QUANTITIES OF GOLD FOUND, WITH ITS ACTUAL VALUE ASCERTAINED BY CHEMICAL ASSAY.</P>
125.sgm:<P>ALSO LATE COMMUNICATIONS CONTAINING ACCOUNTS OF THE HIGHEST INTEREST</P>
125.sgm:<P>AND IMPORTANCE FROM THE GOLD DISTRICTS.</P>
125.sgm:<P>WITH A MAP.</P>
125.sgm:<P>PARIS,</P>
125.sgm:<P>A. AND W. GALIGNANI AND Co,</P>
125.sgm:<P>RUE VIVIENNE, No 18.</P>
125.sgm:<P>BAUDRY'S EUROPEAN LIBRARY,</P>
125.sgm:<P>QUAI MALAQUAIS, No 3.</P>
125.sgm:<P>1849.</P>
125.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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125.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
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125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
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125.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<DIV><P>CALIFORNIA.</P>
125.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA.</P>
125.sgm:<P>FOUR MONTHS AMONG THE GOLD-FINDERS,</P>
125.sgm:<P>BEING THE DIARY OF AN EXPEDITION</P>
125.sgm:<P>FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE GOLD DISTRICTS.</P>
125.sgm:<P>BY J. TYRWHITT BROOKS, M.D.</P>
125.sgm:<P>WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA;</P>
125.sgm:<P>A DESCRIPTION OF ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, AND GOLD MINES;</P>
125.sgm:<P>WITH THE BEST ROUTES AND LATEST INFORMATION FOR INTENDING EMIGRANTS.</P>
125.sgm:<P>BY EDWIN BRYANT,</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Late Alcade of San Francisco</HI>
125.sgm:<P>TO WHICH IS ANNEXED, AN APPENDIX</P>
125.sgm:<P>CONTAINING OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS AND LETTERS AUTHENTICATING THE ACCOUNTS OF THE</P>
125.sgm:<P>QUANTITIES OF GOLD FOUND, WITH ITS ACTUAL VALUE ASCERTAINED BY CHEMICAL ASSAY.</P>
125.sgm:<P>ALSO LATE COMMUNICATIONS CONTAINING ACCOUNTS OF THE HIGHEST INTEREST</P>
125.sgm:<P>AND IMPORTANCE FROM THE GOLD DISTRICTS.</P>
125.sgm:<P>WITH A MAP.</P>
125.sgm:<P>PARIS,</P>
125.sgm:<P>A. AND W. GALIGNANI AND Co.</P>
125.sgm:<P>RUE VIVIENNE, No 18.</P>
125.sgm:<P>BAUDRY'S EUROPEAN LIBRARY,</P>
125.sgm:<P>QUAI MALAQUAIS, No 3.</P>
125.sgm:<P>1849.</P>
125.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>CALIFORNIA.<LB>FOUR MONTHS AMONG THE GOLD-FINDERS;<LB>BEING THE DIARY OF AN EXPEDITION FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE GOLD DISTRICTS.<LB>BY J. TYRWHITT BROOKS, M.D.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>THE accompanying diary--some interesting circumstances connected with which will be found in a letter given at the end of the present volume--was sent home by the Author merely for the entertainment of the members of his own family and a few private friends.  It has been submitted to the public in the hope that, as an authentic record of a variety of interesting particulars connected with the original discovery and present condition of the Gold Districts of California, it will not fail to prove acceptable.</P>
125.sgm:<P>London, 1849.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Clearing the Faranolles--Making the entrance to the Bay of San Francisco--The passage through the Strait--Appearance of the Bay--Town of San Francisco--The anchor is let go--The Author goes on shore--His bad luck--Sweeting's Hotel--The Author and Mr. Malcolm propose visiting the American settlements--They become acquainted with Captain Fulsom and Mr. Bradley--Object of the Author's visit to California--Mr. M`Phail leaves for Sonoma--The Houses of San Francisco, and their inhabitants--Native California--Senoritas and cigarettos.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I felt heartily glad to hear that we were then clearing the Faranolles, and soon hurried up on deck, but we continued beating about for several hours before we made the entrance to the Bay of San Francisco.  At length, however, we worked our way in between the two high bluffs, and along a strait a couple of miles wide and nearly five miles long, flanked on either side with bold broken hills--passing on our right hand the ricketty-looking fortifications erected by the Spaniards for the defence of the passage, but over which the Yankee stars and stripes were now floating.  On leaving the strait we found ourselves on a broad sheet of rippling water looking like a great inland lake, hemmed in on all sides by lofty hills on which innumerable herds of cattle and horses were grazing, with green islands and clusters of rock rising up here and there, and a little fleet of ships riding at anchor.  On our right was the town of San Francisco.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I had suffered so much from the voyage, that when the anchor was let go I felt no inclination to hurry on shore.  M`Phail and Malcolm, however, went off, but promised to return to the ship that night.  I soon after turned into my hammock, and, thanks to the stillness of the water in which we rode, slept soundly till morning.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">April</HI>
125.sgm: 29 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Malcolm intends making an excursion to the interior.  He proposes to visit the American settlements, and to satisfy himself as to the reputed advantages which California presents as an agricultural country.  I have agreed to accompany him.  We have fallen in with two very pleasant American gentlemen at our hotel to-day--one, a Captain Fulsom, holding some appointment under Government here; the other, a young friend of his named Bradley.  We had some conversation together on the subject of the Mexican war, in the course of which I learnt that Mr. Bradley has been a resident in California for the last eight years, and that he was one of the officers of the volunteer corps attached to the army of the United States, while military operations were going on in this country.  I told him of my desire to enter as a surgeon in the service of the States, and he promised to speak to Captain Fulsom on the subject, and obtain from him a letter to Colonel Mason, the new governor; but he is afraid there is little chance of my meeting with success, as nearly all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>San Francisco, although as yet but a poor place, will no doubt become a great emporium of commerce.  The population may be about a couple of thousands; of these two-thirds are Americans.  The houses, with the exception of some few wooden ones which have been shipped over here by the Americans, are nearly all built of unburnt bricks.  The appearance of the native Californian is quite Spanish.  The men wear high steeple-like hats, jackets of gaudy colours, and breeches of velvet, generally cotton.  They are a handsome swarthy race.  The best part in the faces of the women are their eyes, which are black and very lustrous.  The Californian belles, I am sorry to say, spoil their teeth by smoking cigarettos.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Start for Monterey--Horse equipments in California--The advantages of them--Rifles and Ruffians--Californian Scenery--Immense herds of cattle--Mission of Santa Clara--Pueblo of San Jose&acute;--A Californian farm-house--What it is like inside and out--Prolific crops of wheat--Saddle-sickness--The journey is resumed--Mission of San Jose&acute;--Arrival at Monterey--The Author's visit to Colonel Mason--Surgeons not wanted in California--Rumours of gold being found on the Sacramento--Characteristics of Monterey--Don Luis Palo and his sisters--What all Californian dinners consist of--The party return to San Francisco.</P>
125.sgm:<P>MONTEREY.-- <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 4 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The first part of our ride lay through a dense thicket of underwood, and afterwards across parched up valleys, and over low sandy hills; then past large grazing grounds--where cattle might be counted by the thousand--and numerous ranchos or farms, the white farm buildings, surrounded by little garden patches, scattered over the hill sides.  We at length came to an extensive plain, with groups of oaks spread over its surface, and soon afterwards reached the neglected Mission of Santa Clara, where we halted for a few hours.  On leaving here our road was over a raised causeway some two or three miles in length, beneath an avenue of shady trees, which extended as far as the outskirts of the town of St. Jose&acute;.  This town, or pueblo as it is called, is nothing more than a mass of ill-arranged and ill built houses, with an ugly church and a broad plaza, peopled by three or four hundred inhabitants.  Not being used to long journeys on horseback, I felt disposed to stop here for the night, but Bradley urged us to proceed a few miles farther, where we could take up our quarters at a rancho belonging to a friend of his.  Accordingly we pushed on, and, after a ride of about seven miles, diverged from the main road, and soon reached the farm-house, where we were well entertained, and had a good night's rest.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Like the generality of houses in California, this was only one story high, and was built of piles driven into the ground, interlaced with boughs and sticks, and then plastered over with mud and whitewashed.  The better class of farm-houses are built of adobes, or unburnt bricks, and tiled over.  The interior was as plain and cheerless as it well could be.  The floor was formed of the sod, beaten down till it was as firm and hard as a piece of stone.  The room set apart for our sleeping accommodation boasted as its sole ornaments a Dutch clock and a few gaudily-coloured prints of saints hung round the walls.  The beds were not over comfortable, but we were too tired to be nice.  In the morning I took a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>While we were at breakfast, Malcolm asked our host several questions about his crops, and soon found that he was no practical agriculturist.  He had, however, at Bradley's suggestion, discarded the native wooden plough for the more effective American implement.  He told us that he calculated his crop of wheat this year would yield a hundred fanegas for every one sown; and, on our expressing our surprise at such a bountiful return, said that sixty or over was the usual average.  If so, the soil must be somewhat wonderful.  After expressing our thanks, for the hospitality shown us, to the wife of our host, who was a very pretty little dark-eyed woman, with a most winning way about her, we started off to resume our journey.  For my own part, I felt very loth to proceed, for I was terribly fatigued by my performance of yesterday, and suffered not a little from that disagreeable malady called "saddle-sickness."  Our Californian accompanied us some short distance on our road, which lay for many miles through a wide valley, watered by a considerable stream, and overgrown with oaks and sycamores.  Low hills rose on either hand, covered with dark ridges of lofty pine trees, up which herds of elk and deer were every now and then seen scampering.  We at length entered upon a narrow road through a range of green sheltering hills, and, passing the Mission of San Juan, crossed a wide plain and ascended the mountain ridge which lay between us and Monterey, where we arrived late in the day.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Next morning Mr. Bradley accompanied me to the Governor's house, where we saw Colonel Mason, the new governor of the State.  He received us with great politeness, but said that the war, if war it deserved to be called, was now at an end, that but a small number of troops were stationed in the country, and that there was no vacancy for a surgeon.  "Indeed," he said, "considering that we have given up head-breaking, and the climate is proverbially healthy, California is hardly the place for doctors to settle in.  Besides," said he, "the native Californians all use the Temescal (a sort of air-bath) as a remedy for every disorder."  Colonel Mason then asked Mr. Bradley if he had heard the reports of gold having been found on the Sacramento, as Mr. Fulsom had casually mentioned in a letter to him that such rumours were prevalent at San Francisco.  Bradley replied that he had heard something about it, but believed that there was no truth in the matter, although a few fools had indeed rushed off to the reputed gold mines forthwith.  With this our interview terminated.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Monterey seems to be a rising town.  The American style of houses is superseding the old mud structures, and numbers of new buildings are being run up every month.  The hotel we stopped at has only been recently opened by an American.  Monterey is more-over a port of some importance, if one may judge from the number of vessels lying at anchor.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 7 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>On Saturday we set out on our return, and after two days' hard riding reached San Francisco to-day at 4, p.m.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>An arrival at San Francisco from the gold district--Captain Fulsom intends visiting the mine--The first Alcalde and others examine the gold--Parties made up for the diggings--Newspaper reports--The Government officers propose taking possession of the mine--The Author and his friends decide to visit the Sacramento Valley--A horse is bought--Increase of the gold excitement--Work people strike work and prepare to move off--Lawyers, storekeepers, and others follow their example--The Author's journey delayed--Ten dollars a-day for a negro waiter--Waiting for a saddler--Don Luis Palo arrives from Monterey on his way to the mines--The report of the Government taking possession of the mines contradicted--Desertion of part of the Monterey garrison--Rumoured extent of the mines--The Author and his friends agree to go in company--Return of M`Phail--Preparations for the journey--"Gone to the diggings."</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 8 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:.--Captain Fulsom called at Sweeting's to-day.  He had seen a man this morning who reported that he had just come from a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 10 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 13 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 17 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Our trip has been delayed to-day, for the saddler cannot get our equipments in readiness for at least forty-eight hours.  He says that directly he has finished the job he shall start off himself to the diggings.  I have bribed him with promises of greatly increased pay not to disappoint us again.  As it was, we were to pay him a very high price, which he demanded on account of three of his men having left him, and there being only himself and two workmen to attend to our order.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I told Mr. Bradley of our misfortune.  He promised to wait for us, but recommended me to keep going in and out of the saddler's all day long, in order to make sure that the man was at work, otherwise we might be kept hanging about for a fortnight.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 20 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:.--It requires a full amount of patience to stay quietly watching the proceedings of an inattentive tradesman amid such a whirlpool of excitement as is now in action.  Sweeting tells me that his negro waiter has demanded and receives ten dollars a-day.  He is forced to submit, for "helps" of all kinds are in great demand, and very difficult to meet with.  Several hundred people must have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 22 <HI REND="italics">nd</HI>
125.sgm:<P>While we were thus engaged, M`Phail, our fellow-passenger from Oregon, made his appearance, having only just then returned from Sonoma.  He had heard a great deal about the new gold placer, and he had merely come back for his baggage, intending to start off for the mines forthwith.  The result of our deliberations was to this effect.  Each man was to furnish himself with one good horse for his own use, and a second horse to carry his personal baggage, as well as a portion of the general outfit; we were each to take a rifle, holster pistols, etc.  It was agreed, moreover, that a tent should be bought immediately, if such a thing could be procured, as well as some spades, and mattocks, and a good stout axe, together with a collection of blankets and hides, and a supply of coffee, sugar, whisky, and brandy; knives, forks, and plates, with pots and kettles, and all the requisite cooking utensils for a camp life.  The tent is the great difficulty, and fears are entertained that we shall not be able to procure one; but Bradley thinks he might buy one out of the Government stores.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I followed the saddler well up during the day, and was fortunate enough to obtain our saddles, saddle-bags, etc., by four o'clock.  On going to his house a couple of hours after about some trifling alteration I wished made, I found it shut up, and deserted.  On the door was pasted a paper with the following words, "Gone to the diggings."</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The party leave San Francisco--Cross to Sausalitto with horses and baggage--Appearance of the cavalcade--Jose&acute;'s method of managing horses--Character of the country passed through--Stay at Sonoma for the night--A Yankee hotel--keeper's notion--The Author meets with Lieutenant Sherman--Receives from him a letter of introduction to Captain Sutter--Napper Valley--Sleep at the house of a settler--Troublesome bedfellows--Wild-looking scenery--Bradley is injured by a fall from his horse--Difficulties in the way of pitching a tent--A hint to the bears--Supper and bed--Resume the journey--Sacramento valley--Elk and wild fowl--A long halt--A hunting party--A missing shot.</P>
125.sgm:<P>SONOMA.-- <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 24 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
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125.sgm:<P>We made our way but slowly during the first portion of our ride, for the road wound up steep hills and down into deep hollows, but when at last we came upon a winding valley some miles in extent, our horses got over the ground in a style which only Californian steeds could achieve after the hard work which had already been performed.  Towards evening, we crossed the hills which divided the valley from Sonoma plain, and on reaching Sonoma put up at an hotel recently opened here by a citizen from the United States, who coolly told us, in the course of conversation, that he guessed he didn't intend shearing off to the gold mines, until he had drawn a few thousand dollars from the San Francisco folk who pass through here to and from the diggings.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 27 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The next day we travelled over the corresponding range of hills to those crossed on Thursday, and were soon in the midst of a much wilder-looking country--a rapid succession of steep and rugged mountains, thickly timbered with tall pine-trees and split up with deep precipitous ravines, hemming in beautiful and fertile valleys, brilliant with golden flowers and dotted over with noble oaks.  While we were riding down one of these dangerous chasms, Bradley, who was showing off his superior equitation, was thrown from his horse, and fell rather severely on his arm.  On examining it, I was surprised to find he had escaped a fracture.  As it is, he has injured it sufficiently to prevent him from using the limb for several days.  I bandaged it up, put it in a sling, and he proceeded in a more cautious manner.</P>
125.sgm:<P>To-night we used our tent for the first time.  We were somewhat awkward in pitching it, and three times did the whole structure come down by the run, burying several of us in the flapping canvas, and inflicting some tolerably hard knocks with the poles.  However, at length we succeeded in getting it fixed; and, kindling a blazing fire close to it, as a polite intimation to the bears that they were not wanted, cooked our supper over the embers, and then, wrapped in our blankets, slept far better than the fleas had allowed us to do the night before.</P>
125.sgm:<P>This morning I examined Bradley's arm, and was glad to find the inflammation somewhat reduced.  He was bruised a good deal about the body generally, and complained to-day sorely of the pain he felt while being jolted over the broken ground which we crossed in our ascent of the tall mountains that bound the Sacramento Valley.  From their summit we obtained a noble view of the broad winding river and its smaller tributaries, thickly studded with islands overgrown with noble oaks and sycamores.  We encamped to-night at the foot of these hills, near a little stream which gurgled merrily by.  We have seen several herds of elk to-day, and a large quantity of wild fowl.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, May</HI>
125.sgm: 28 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
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125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Encampment for the night--Symptoms of neighbours not far off--Reach the Sacramento River--Sutter's Fort--Captain Sutter--His offer of accommodation Various matters to be seen to--A walk through the Fort--Desertion of the guard to the "diggings"--Work and whisky--Indians and their bargains--A chief's effort to look like a civilised being--Yankee traders--Indians and trappers--"Beats beaver skins"--Death to the weakest--A regular Spanish Don and his servant--Captain Sutter a Swiss Guard--His prejudice in favour of "constituted authorities."</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 29 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>On inquiring of a squaw we met at the entrance of the Fort, and who knew just sufficient English to understand our question, she pointed out to us as Captain Sutter a very tall good-looking sort of personage, wearing a straw hat and loose coat and trousers of striped duck, but with features as unlike those of a Yankee as can well be imagined.  I at once introduced myself, and handed him the letter which Lieutenant Sherman had given me.  After reading it, the Captain informed me that he was happy enough to see me, although he feared, from the great change which a few weeks had made in this part of the world, that he could offer me but indifferent hospitality.  Every store and shed was being crammed with bales of goods, barrels of flour, and a thousand other things for which a demand has suddenly sprung up.  The Captain's own house was indeed just like an hotel crowded with many more visitors than it could accommodate; still no one who came there, so the Captain was good enough to say, recommended by his friend Sherman, should have other than an hospitable reception.  All that he could do, however, he said, would be to place one sleeping-room at my service for myself and such of my friends as I liked to share it with; and, leaving me to arrange the matter with them, he went away, promising to return and show us our quarters.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I told my companions of the Captain's offer, but they were satisfied to rough it out of doors again to-night, and it was arranged that only Bradley and myself should accept the sleeping accommodation offered by Captain Sutter, as a good night's rest in comforable quarters would be more beneficial to our friend with the injured limb, than an outdoor nap with a single blanket for a bed and a saddle for a pillow.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Two of our horses having cast their shoes, Malcolm and Jose&acute; walked them round to the blacksmith's shop, where, after their losses were repaired, a stock of shoes, nails, etc., were to be laid in for future contingencies.  M`Phail and our Spanish friend undertook at the same time to purchase a ten days' supply of provisions for us, and Bradley agreed to look about the Fort and see if he could meet with another servant.  In this errand, I am sorry to say, he was not successful.</P>
125.sgm:<P>While these several commissions were executing, the Captain returned and walked with me through the Fort.  On our way he pointed out the guard-house, the Indian soldiers attached to which had deserted to the mines almost to a man; the woollen factory, with some thirty women still at work; the distillery house, where the famous pisco is made; and the blacksmiths' and wheelwrights' shops, with more work before them than the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>It was not easy to pick our way through the crowds of strange people who were moving backwards and forwards in every direction.  Carts were passing to and fro; groups of Indians squatting on their haunches were chattering together, and displaying to one another the flaring red and yellow handkerchiefs, the scarlet blankets, and muskets of the most worthless Brummagem make, for which they had been exchanging their bits of gold, while their squaws looked on with the most perfect indifference.  I saw one chief, who had gone for thirty years with no other covering than a rag to hide his nakedness, endeavouring to thrust his legs into a pair of sailor's canvas trousers with very indifferent success.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Inside the stores the bustle and noise were even greater.  Some half-a-dozen sharp-visaged Yankees, in straw hats and loose frocks, were driving hard bargains for dollars with the crowds of customers who were continually pouring in to barter a portion of their stock of gold for coffee and tobacco, breadstuff, brandy, and bowie-knives: of spades and mattocks there were none to be had.  In one corner, at a railed-off desk, a quick-eyed old man was busily engaged, with weights and scales, setting his own value on the lumps of golden ore or the bags of dust which were being handed over to him, and in exchange for which he told out the estimated quantity of dollars.  These dollars quickly returned to the original deposit, in payment for goods bought at the other end of the store.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Among the clouds of smoke puffed forth by some score of pipes and as many cigarettos, there were to be seen, mingled together, Indians of various degrees of civilisation, and corresponding styles of dress, varying from the solitary cloth kilt to the cotten shirts and jackets and trousers of Russia duck; with groups of trappers from as far up as Oregon, clad in coats of buffalo hide, and with faces and hands so brown and wrinkled that one would take their skins to be as tough as the buffalo's, and almost as indifferent to a lump of lead.  "Captain," said one of these gentry,--shaking a bag of gold as we passed, "I guess this beats beaver skins--eh, captain?" Another of them, who had a savage looking wolf-dog with him, was holding a palaver with an Indian from the borders of the Klamath Lake; and the most friendly understanding seemed to exist between them.  "You see those two scoundrels?" said the Captain to me.  "They look and talk for all the world like brothers; but only let either of them get the chance of a shot at the other after scenting his trail, may be for days, across those broad hunting-grounds, where every man they meet they look upon as a foe, and the one that has the quickest eye and the readiest hand will alone live to see the sun rise next day."</P>
125.sgm:<P>Threading his way amongst the crowd, I was somewhat struck by the appearance of a Spanish Don of the old school, looking as magnificent as a very gaudy light blue jacket with silver buttons and scarlet trimmings, and breeches of crimson velvet, and striped silk sash, and embroidered deer-skin shoes, and a perfumed cigaretto could make him.  He wore his slouched sombrero jauntily placed on one side, and beneath it, of course, the everlasting black silk handkerchief, with the corners dangling over the neck behind.  Following him was his servant, in slouched hat and spangled garters, carrying an old Spanish musket over his shoulder, and casting somewhat timid looks at the motley assemblage of Indians and trappers, who every now and then jostled against him.  Beyond these, there were a score or two of go-ahead Yankees--"gentlemen traders," I suppose they called themselves--with a few pretty Californian women, who are on their way with their husbands to the mines.  I noticed that the Captain had a word for almost every one, and that he seemed to be held in very great respect.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Bradley informed me to-night of the origin of a scar which is just distinguishable in Captain Sutter's face.  It seems that the Captain, who is a Swiss, was one of Charles the Tenth's guards in 1830, and that a slight cut from the sabre of one of the youths of the Polytechnic School had left in his visage a standing memorial of the three glorious days.  Indeed the Captain seems generally to have taken the side of the constituted authorities, as in the revolution of 1845 he turned out with all his people for the Mexican Government.  However, he was more fortunate in California than in Paris, as he didn't even get his skin scratched on this occasion.</P>
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125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The journey delayed--A walk to the camp--A list of wants--Captain Sutter's account of his first settlement in California--How he served the Indians, and how he civilised them--Breakfast--Captain Sutter's wife and daughter--Ridiculous stories about the discovery of the gold mines--Joe Smith's prophecy--An Indian ghost--Something about a ship-load of rifles.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
125.sgm: 30 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>This morning I rose early and walked to the camp, which I found, about half a mile off, under some oaks in a piece of pasture land on the Captain's farm.  I had some difficulty in finding it out, for there were at least fifteen or twenty tents of one kind or another in the "bottom."  The party were all roused, and breakfast was preparing under Don Luis's superintendence.  It was the general opinion that we must buy two extra horses to carry our breadstuffs, etc.  Malcolm reported that there were a variety of articles we were still in want of; namely, tin drinking-cups, some buckets for water, with forks, and other small articles.  He recommended that a couple more axes and a strong saw be bought at Brannan's, together with hammers, nails, etc., and some of the Indian baskets which seem to be so common about here.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On our way to the house, I got the Captain to speak to the head blacksmith about our horses, after which we went in to breakfast, when I saw his wife and daughter for the first time.  They are both very ladylike women, and both natives of France.  During the meal, I found Captain Sutter communicative on the subject of the discovery of the gold mines, which I was very glad of, as I was anxious to learn the true particulars of the affair, respecting which so many ridiculous stories had been circulated.  One was to the effect that the mines had been discovered by the Mormons, in accordance with a prophecy made by the famous Joe Smith.  Another tale was, that the Captain had seen the apparition of an Indian chief, to whom he had given a rifle (the possession of which he only lived three months to enjoy, having been trampled down by a buffalo in the neighbourhood of the Rocky Mountains, on his way with his tribe to make an attack on the Pawnees), when the ghost in question told the Captain that he would make him very rich, and begged that, with this promised cash, the Captain would immediately buy a ship-load of rifles, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter's account of the first discovery of the gold--His surprise at Mr. Marshall's appearance at the Fort--Mr. Marshall's statement--The mill-wheel thrown out of gear--The water channel enlarged--Mr. Marshall's attention attracted by some glittering substance--Finds it to be gold--First imagines it to have been buried there--Discovers it in great abundance--Takes horse to Sutter's Fort--Captain Sutter and Mr. Marshall agree to keep the matter secret--They start off to the mill--Proceed up the Fork--Find the gold in great abundance--Return to the mill--The work people meet them--A knowing Indian and a sly Kentuckian--A labouring party organised--Digging and washing for gold--The news spreads--People flock to the diggings--Arrival of Mormons--The gold found to be inexhaustible--Men of science as blind as the rest of the world.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"At the conclusion of Mr. Marshall's account," continued Captain Sutter, "and when I had convinced myself, from the specimens he had brought with him, that it was not exaggerated.  I felt as much excited as himself.  I eagerly inquired if he had shown the gold to the work-people at the mill, and was glad to hear that he had not spoken to a single person about it.  We agreed," said the Captain, smiling, "not to mention the circumstance to any one, and arranged to set off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"On our return to the mill, we were astonished by the work-people coming up to us in a body, and showing us small flakes of gold similar to those we had ourselves procured.  Marshall tried to laugh the matter off with them, and to persuade them that what they had found was only some shining mineral of trifling value; but one of the Indians, who had worked at the gold mine in the neighbourhood of La Paz, in Lower California, cried out, `Oro! oro!'  We were disappointed enough at this discovery, and supposed that the work-people had been watching our movements, although we thought we had taken every precaution against being observed by them.  I heard afterwards, that one of them, a sly Kentuckian, had dogged us about, and that, looking on the ground to see if he could discover what we were in search of, he had lighted on some flakes of gold himself.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The next day I rode back to the Fort, organised a labouring party, set the carpenters to work on a few necessary matters, and the next day accompanied them to a point of the Fork, where they encamped for the night.  By the following morning I had a party of fifty Indians fairly at work.  The way we first managed was to shovel the soil into small buckets, or into some of our famous Indian baskets; then wash all the light earth out, and pick away the stones; after this, we dried the sand on pieces of canvas, and with long reeds blew away all but the gold.  I have now some rude machines in use, and upwards of one hundred men employed, chiefly Indians, who are well fed, and who are allowed whisky three times a-day.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The report soon spread.  Some of the gold was sent to San Francisco, and crowds of people flocked to the diggings.  Added to this, a large emigrant party of Mormons entered California across the Rocky Mountains, just as the affair was first made known.  They halted at once, and set to work on a spot some thirty miles from here, where a few of them still remain.  When I was last up at the diggings, there were full eight hundred men at work, at one place and another, with perhaps something like three hundred more passing backwards and forwards between here and the mines.  I at first imagined the gold would soon be exhausted by such crowds of seekers, but subsequent observations have convinced me that it will take many years to bring about such a result, even with ten times the present number of people employed.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"What surprises me," continued the Captain, "is that this country should have been visited by so many scientific men, and that not one of them should have ever stumbled upon these treasures; that scores of keen; eyed trappers should have crossed this valley in every direction, and tribes of Indians have dwelt in it for centuries, and yet that this gold should have never been discovered.  I myself have passed the very spot above a hundred times during the last ten years, but was just as blind as the rest of them, so I must not wonder at the discovery not having been made earlier.</P>
125.sgm:<P>While the Captain was proceeding with his narrative, I must confess that I felt so excited on the subject as to wish to start off immediately on our journey.  When he had finished, I walked off to see after the horses, but, although they were ready, the additional shoes we wanted to carry with us would not be furnished for several hours; it was late in the afternoon before we got them.  We bought two horses of Captain Sutter (very strong animals), and M. Phail managed to engage a big lad as a servant--a rough-looking fellow, who appears to have deserted from some ship, and worked his way up here.  All things considered, it was agreed that we should remain here another night, and resume our march as early as we could in the morning.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The Author and his friends leave Sutter's Fort--Tents in the bottom--A caravan in motion--Green hills and valleys--Indian villages--Californian pack-Horses--A sailor on horseback--Lunch at noon--A troublesome beast--Sierra Nevada--First view of the lower mines--How the gold is dug and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June</HI>
125.sgm: 4 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>At noon we halted to refresh by the side of a small stream of crystal purity.  While making preparations for our hurried meal, we had all our eyes about us for gold in the channel of the rivulet, but saw none.  We had not yet reached the favoured spot.  After some difficulty in catching the pack-horses, one of the perverse brutes having taken it into its head to march up to its belly in the stream, where he floundered about for some time, enjoying the coolness of the water, we set forward, determined to reach the lower diggings by sundown.  As we neared the spot the ground gradually became more broken and heavily timbered with oak and pine, while in the distance, and separated from us by deep forests of these trees, might be seen a long ridge of snow-capped mountains--the lofty Sierra Nevada.  But we were too anxious to reach the gold to care much about the more unprofitable beauties of Nature, and accordingly urged our horses to the quickest speed they could put forth.  We were now travelling along the river's banks, and towards evening came in sight of the lower mines, here called the "Mormon" diggings, which occupy a surface of two or three miles along the river.  There were something like forty tents scattered up the hill sides, occupied mostly by Americans, some of whom had brought their families with them.  Although it was near sundown, everybody was in full occupation.  At every few yards there were men, with their naked arms, busily employed in washing out the golden flakes and dust from spadefuls of the auriferous soil.  Others were first passing it through sieves, many of them freshly made with intertwisted willow branches, to get rid of the coarse stones, and then washing the lumps of soil in pots placed beneath the surface of the water, the contents of the vessel being kept continually stirred by the hand until the lighter particles of earth or gravel were carried away.</P>
125.sgm:<P>A great number of the settlers, however, were engaged in making what are here called "cradles;" partly, I suppose, from their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>I can hardly describe the effect this sight produced upon our party.  It seemed as if the fabled treasure of the Arabian Nights had been suddenly realised before us.  We all shook hands, and swore to preserve good faith with each other, and to work hard for the common good.  The gold-finders told us that some of them frequently got as much as fifty dollars a-day.  As we rode from camp to camp, and saw the hoards of gold--some of it in flakes, but the greater part in a coarse sort of dust--which these people had amassed during the last few weeks, we felt in a perfect fluster of excitement at the sight of the wealth around us.  One man showed us four hundred ounces of pure gold dust which he had washed from the dirt in a tin pan, and which he valued at fourteen dollars an ounce.</P>
125.sgm:<P>As may be imagined, the whole scene was one well calculated to take a strong hold upon the imagination.  The eminences, rising gradually from the river's banks, were dotted with white canvas tents, mingled with the more sombre-looking huts, constructed with once green but now withered branches.  A few hundred yards from the river lay a large heap of planks and framings, which I was told were intended for constructing a store; the owner of which, a sallow Yankee, with a large pluffy cigaretto in his mouth, was labouring away in his shirt sleeves.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Bewildered and excited by the novelty of the scene, we were in haste to pitch our camp, and soon fixed upon a location.  This was by the side of a dried-up water-course, through which, in the wet season, a small rivulet joined the larger stream; we did not, however, immediately set to work to make the necessary arrangements for the night.  Our fingers were positively itching for the gold, and in less than half an hour after our arrival, the pack-horse which carried the shovels, scoops, and pans, had been released of his burden, and all our party were as busily employed as the rest.  As for myself, armed with a large scoop or trowel, and a shallow tin pail, I leapt into the bed of the rivulet, at a spot where I perceived no trace of the gravel and earth having been artificially disturbed.  Near me was a small clear pool, which served for washing the gold.  Some of our party set to work within a short distance of me, while others tried their fortune along the banks of the Americanos, digging up the shingle which lay at the very brink of the stream.  I shall not soon forget the feeling with which I first plunged my scoop into the soil beneath me.  Half filling my tin pail with the earth and shingle, I carried it to the pool, and placing it beneath the surface of the water, I began to stir it with my hand, as I had observed the other diggers do.  Of course I was not very expert at first, and I dare say I flung out a good deal of the valuable metal.  However, I soon perceived that the earth was crumbling away, and was being carried by the agitation of the water into the pool, which speedily became turbid, while the sandy sediment of which I had heard remained at the bottom of the pail.  Carefully draining the water away, I deposited the sand in one of the small close-woven Indian baskets we had brought with us, with the intention of drying it at the camp fire, there not being sufficient time before nightfall to allow the moisture gradually to absorb by the evaporation of the atmosphere.</P>
125.sgm:<P>After working for about half an hour, I retraced my steps with my basket to the spot where we had tethered the horses, and found the animals still standing there with their burdens on their backs.  Mr. Malcolm was already there; he had with him about an equal quantity of the precious black sand; it remained, however, to be seen what proportion of gold our heaps contained.  In a short time Bradley and Don Luis joined us, both of them in tiptop spirits.  "I guess this is the way we do the trick down in these clearings," said the former, shaking a bag of golden sand.  As for Jose&acute;, Don Luis's Indian servant, he was devout in his expressions of thanksgiving to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>We now set to work to get up our tent.  Malcolm, in the meantime, prepared coffee and very under-baked cakes, made of the flour we had brought with us.  His cooking operations were greatly impeded by our eagerness to dry the sand we had scraped up--a feat in the achievement of which Bradley was clumsy enough to burn a hole in our very best saucepan.  However, we managed to get the moisture absorbed, and, shutting our eyes, we commenced blowing away the sand with our mouths, and shortly after found ourselves the possessors of a few pinches of gold.  This was encouraging for a beginning.  We drank our coffee in high spirits, and then, having picketted our horses, made ourselves as snug as our accommodation would allow, and, being tired out, not only with the journey and the work, but with excitement and anxiety, slept soundly till morning.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Two horses stray away--How orders were enforced at the diggings--Sunday work--Nature of the soil--Inconveniences even in gold-getting--Dinner and rest--A strike for higher wages--A walk through the diggings--Sleeping and smoking--Indians and finery--Californians and Yankee--Runaway sailors and stray negroes--A native-born Kentuckian--"That's a fact"--A chapel at the diggings--A supper with an appetite.</P>
125.sgm:<P>THE morning broke brilliantly, and the first thing we discovered on rising was, that two of the horses had broken their fastenings during the night, and strayed.  As we could not afford to lose the animals, Jose&acute; and Horry were despatched to look after them, and they grumbled not a little at being thus sent off from the scene of golden operations; but Bradley, producing a rifle, swore that he would shoot them both unless they obeyed orders; so, after a little altercation, away they went.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Breakfast was soon despatched, and the question as to the day's operations asked.  Don Luis was the only one who, on the score of its being Sunday, would not go to the diggings.  He had no objection to amuse himself on Sunday, but he would not work.  To get over the difficulty, we agreed to go upon the principle of every man keeping his own findings, our bonds of unity as a party to extend merely to mutual protection and defence.  Leaving Don Luis, then, smoking in the tent, we proceeded to work, and found that the great majority of the gold-finders appeared to entertain our opinions, or at all events to imitate our practice, as to labouring on the Sunday.  I had now leisure more particularly to remark the nature of the soil in which the gold was found.  The dust is found amid the shingle actually below water, but the most convenient way of proceeding is to take the soil from that portion of the bed which has been overflowed but is now dry.  It is principally of a gravelly nature, full of small stones, composed, as far as I could make out, of a species of jasper and milky quality, mingled with fragments of slate and splinters of basalt.  The general opinion is, that the gold has been washed down from the hills.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I worked hard, as indeed we all did, the whole morning.  The toil is very severe, the constant stooping pressing, of course, upon the spinal column, whilst the constant immersion of the hands in water causes the skin to excoriate and become exceedingly painful.  But these inconveniences are slight when compared to the great gain by which one is recompensed for them.</P>
125.sgm:<P>At twelve o'clock, our usual primitive dinner hour, we met at the tents, tolerably well tired with our exertions.  No dinner, however, was prepared, both Jose&acute; and Horry being still absent in pursuit of the strayed horses.  We had, therefore, to resort to some of our jerked beef, which, with biscuits and coffee, formed our fare.  After dinner, we determined to rest until the next day.  The fact is, that the human frame will not stand, and was never intended to stand, a course of incessant toil; indeed, I believe that in civilized--that is to say, in industrious--communities, the Sabbath, bringing round as it does a stated remission from labour, is an institution physically necessary.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We therefore passed some time in conversation, which was interrupted by the arrival of Jose&acute; and Horry with the strayed horses.  Horry demanded an immediate increase of wages, threatening to leave us and set to work on his own account if we refused.  Bradley tried to talk big and bully him, but in vain.  Jose&acute; had a sort of fear of Don Luis--who in return looked on his servant as his slave--so he said nothing.  We could see, however, that they had evidently been in communication with the diggers around, and so we gave in.  Later in the afternoon I started with Malcolm and M`Phail for a walk through the diggings.  We found comparatively a small proportion of the people who had commenced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Farther on we came upon a tremendous-looking tent, for ed by two or three tents being flung into one, which, on examination, we found was doing duty as a chapel.  A missionary, from one of the New England States, as I hear, was holding forth to a pretty large congregation.  The place was very hot and chokey, and I only stayed long enough to hear that the discourse abounded in the cloudy metaphors and vague technicalities of Calvinistic theology.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The remainder of the afternoon I have been devoting to writing my journal, which I here break off to commence a hearty good supper, in revenge for the scrambling sort of dinner one has had to-day.  The beef doesn't look roasted as they would put it on the table at the Clarendon, or at Astor House even; but none of those who sit down to the Clarendon table, at any rate, have such an appetite as I now have, far away beyond care and civilisation, in the gold-gathering region of California.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Digging and washing, with a few reflections--A cradle in contemplation--Scales to sell, but none to lend--Stock of gold weighed--More arrivals--Two new-comers--Mr. Biggs and Mr. Lacosse--Good order prevails at the mines--Timber bought for the cradles--The cradles made--The cradles worked--The result of the first day's trial.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
125.sgm: 5 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Before starting for work this morning, it was agreed that Jose&acute; should act as cook for the day; it being stipulated that he was to have the afternoon to himself for digging.  Horry was left in charge of the horses.  I worked hard, keeping near Bradley, and conversing with him as I shovelled the gravel into the pail, and stirred it about in the clear pools.  We had very fair success, but still we could not but think that this was a poor way of proceeding; besides, I didn't like the back-breaking work of stooping all day.  I therefore proposed that we should endeavour to knock up a cradle.  The expense for wood would certainly be great, but it would be better to incur it than keep to the present rude and toilsome plan of operation.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We proposed the plan to our comrades at dinner-time, and it was, on the whole, well received.  Malcolm and M`Phail entered into the notion, and we determined to try whether we could not put forth sufficient carpentering ability to carry it out.  The next day was fixed upon for commencing the work.</P>
125.sgm:<P>After dinner we returned to our shovels and pails.  In the evening we were anxious to know how much gold we had realised by our labours up to the present time; and, accordingly, I set off to borrow a pair of scales.  After entering several tents in vain, I was directed to the Yankee who had the materials for a store, and whose name was Hiram <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Furnished with my purchase, I returned to the tent, and the stock of gold dust realised by each man was weighed, and computed at the current rate in which the mercantile transactions of this little colony are reckoned--namely, fourteen dollars each ounce of gold dust.  We found that M. Phail and Malcolm had been, upon the whole, the most successful, each having obtained nearly two ounces of pure gold dust, valued at twenty-eight dollars.  I myself had about twenty-three dollars' worth, and Bradley had twenty-five dollars' worth.  An amount which, considerable though it was, we hope greatly to increase as soon as we get our cradle into operation.</P>
125.sgm:<P>During the day, there were numerous arrivals from Sutter's Fort; and in my opinion, these diggings will soon be overcrowded.  Two of the new-comers were known to Bradley--one, a Mr. Biggs, a shipping agent from San Francisco; the other, Mr. Lacosse, a French Canadian, who has recently settled in California.  They accepted our offer for them to join our party.  If this influx of people continues, I think the Yankee with the store will do better than any one; and keeping a shanty will be a far more profitable speculation than handling a shovel or working a cradle.  What surprises me is, that in this remote spot, so distant from anything that can be called Law, so much tranquillity prevails under the circumstances.  One hears of no deeds of violence, or even dishonesty.  In fact, theft would hardly pay.  The risk would be more than the advantage; for if any one was detected plundering, he would soon have a rifle-bullet put through him.  One thing in favour of good order is, that here there is no unequal distribution of property--no favoured classes.  Every man who has a spade or a trowel, and hands to use them, is upon an equality, and can make a fortune with a rapidity hitherto almost unknown in the history of the world.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June</HI>
125.sgm: 11 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The next question was, as to whether we should hire a carpenter.  We were told there were one or two in the diggings who might be hired, though at a very extravagant rate.  Accordingly, Bradley and I proceeded to see one of these gentlemen, and found him washing away with a hollow log and a willow-branch sieve.  He offered to help us at the rate of thirty-five dollars a-day, we finding provisions and tools, and could not be brought to charge less.  We thought this by far too extravagant, and left him, determined to undertake the work ourselves.  Meantime, Horry had brought down two of our horses with him to the store.  We loaded them immediately with boards, and returned to our tent.</P>
125.sgm:<P>After breakfast, which consisted of coffee without milk, flour cakes, and strips of dried beef, roasted on the embers, we set to work.  We had a sufficient number of axes and a good stout saw, one large plane, and a few strong chisels, with plenty of nails.  As may be expected, we proved to be very awkward carpenters.  Mr. Lacosse was perhaps the handiest, and Malcolm not much inferior to him, until the latter unfortunately received a severe cut with a chisel, extending in a transverse line along the joint of the fore-finger of the left hand.  I strapped up the wound, but the rough work soon tore away the diaculum: no bad consequences, however, ensued.  The wound, in spite of the hard treatment which it received, closed and healed by the first intention--proving the healthy habit of body engendered by temperance and constant exercise in the open air.</P>
125.sgm:<P>In building our cradles, or "gold canoes," as the Indians called them, we found that to mortice the planks into each other was a feat of carpentering far above our skill, particularly as we had no mortice chisels.  We were therefore obliged to adopt the ruder experiment of making the boards overlap each other by about an inch, nailing them firmly together in that position.  As, however, the inequality of surface at the bottom of the cradle, produced by the mode of building, would have materially impeded our operations, we strained some pieces of tarred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>The next day we set to work with them with the utmost eagerness, having first dragged the lumbering machines to a likely spot in the vicinity of the water.  The labour was hard enough, but nothing compared to the old plan of pot-washing, while it saved the hands from the injury inflicted by continual dabbling in sand and water.  We took the different departments of labour by turns, and found that the change, by bringing into play different sets of muscles, greatly relieved us, and enabled us to keep the stones rolling with great energy.  In the evening, with the help of our newly purchased scales, we tested our gains.  The cradle which was worked by Don Luis, Malcolm, and myself, for it was so near the water that three hands were sufficient, had realised six ounces of gold dust; the other, attended to by Bradley, M`Phail, Biggs, and Lacosse, had nearly as much.  During the day there was another considerable influx of people to the diggings; the banks of the river are therefore getting more and more crowded, and we hear that the price of every article of subsistence is rising in the same proportion.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The proceedings of the week--Visit from Mr. Larkin--What will the Government do?--What "enough" is--San Francisco--Houses and ships deserted--A captain and ship without a crew--A ship without a crew or captain--Wages, newspapers, and shovels--The Attorney-General to the King of the Sandwich Islands--Something for the lawyers--Gold-diggers by moonlight--Mr. Larkin's departure--Provisions run short--Seek a supply at Salter's--Good luck--Diggings' law--Provisions arrive--A wagon wanted--Arrival of Californians and their families--Gay dresses and coquettish manners--Fandangos--El Jarabe--The waltz--Lookers-on and dancers--Coffee, and something stronger--No more Sunday work--Jose&acute; and the saints--The Virgin Mary cheated--Contemplated migration.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
125.sgm: 18 <HI REND="italics">th, Sunday</HI>
125.sgm:<P>On the evening of Thursday we were visited by a gentleman from Monterey, a Mr. Larkin, who, I believe, is connected with the States Government, and who has arrived in the diggings with the view of making a report to the authorities at Washington.  Don Luis immediately recognised him, and invited him to spend the evening and night in our tent.  We were very anxious to hear the news from the coast, and Mr. Larkin in turn was very anxious to pick up all the information he could get respecting the diggings.  Don Luis says he is a man of large fortune, so his tour is purely one of inspection, and not with any eye to business.  We made him as comfortable as we could; Lacosse exerted himself in the manufacture of the coffee in honour of our guest, and we had several hours of interesting conversation.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Mr. Larkin said he had no idea what steps the Government at Washington would take with reference to the "placer."  "It can't matter much to you, gentlemen," observed he, "for although there can be no doubt of its being upon public territory, still, before any instructions can be received from Washington, the great body of the diggers and washers here will be enriched to their heart's content, if a man ever does feel contented with any amount of wealth."--"Your observation," exclaimed Malcolm, "puts me in mind of a story which my father used to tell of a farmer, a friend of his, who once took his rent, the odd money short, to an old miserly landlord rolling in wealth.  He was asked by him why he had not brought the full <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:amount.  `Why,' replied the farmer, `I thought you had enough.'--`Enough!' said the miser; `do you know what <HI REND="italics">enough</HI>
125.sgm: is?  I'll tell you--Enough is <HI REND="italics">something more</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Mr. Larkin then spoke of the effects of the "mineral yellow fever," as he called it, having been most extraordinary in San Francisco.  When he left that town, he said more than two-thirds of the houses were deserted.  We were not surprised at this, as we knew the people who were continually arriving here must have come from somewhere.  Nearly all the ships in the harbour too had lost a great part of their crews by desertion.  A barque called the Amity had only six men left when Mr. Larkin started from the port.  On board another ship from the Sandwich Islands the captain was left actually and literally alone.  On the road Mr. Larkin fell in with another captain who had started off for the gold region with every man of his crew, leaving his ship unprotected in port.  On Mr. Larkin remonstrating with him on the flagrancy of his conduct, he merely replied, "Oh, I warrant me her cables and anchors are strong enough to last till we get back."  Mr. Larkin told us what we were fully prepared to hear, namely, that wages and salaries of all classes have risen immensely; clerks, he said, were getting from nine hundred to twelve hundred dollars, instead of from four hundred to five hundred and fifty dollars, with their board.  Both the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
125.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"Do you know, by-the-by," said Mr. Larkin, "who I saw here to-day, up to his knees in water, washing away in a tin pan?  Why, a lawyer who was the Attorney-General to the King of the Sandwich Islands, not eighteen months ago."--"I guess," said Bradley, "he finds gold-washing more profitable than Sandwich Island law; but he's not the only one of his brethren that is of much the same spirit; there's lots of lawyers in these diggings.  Well! they are better employed now than ever they were in their lives.  They're money-getting rascals all the world over; but here they do have to <HI REND="italics">work</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
125.sgm: 23 <HI REND="italics">rd, Friday</HI>
125.sgm:<P>They departed on Tuesday, and we continued our labours.  Towards the afternoon of that day, I had a piece of great good luck.  I was digging up the earth to throw into the cradle, when I turned up a lump of ore about the size of a small walnut, which I knew at once was a piece of gold.  It weighed two ounces and three-quarters.  This, by the law of the diggings--for it is curious how soon a set of rude regulations sprung into existence, which everybody seemed to abide by--belonged to myself and not to the party, it being found before the earth was thrown into the cradle, and being over half an ounce in weight.  Higher up the Sacramento, and particularly on Bear River, one of its tributaries, these lumps and flakes were said to be frequently met with; but at the Mormon digging they are very rare.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On Thursday, about sundown, we were delighted to see the approach of Bradley with a well-loaded wagon of light but strong construction.  He had just arrived in time, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Among the fresh arrivals at the diggings the native Californians have begun to appear in tolerable numbers.  Many of these people have brought their wives, who are attended usually by Indian girls.  The graceful Spanish costume of the new-comers adds quite a feature to the busy scene around.  There, working amidst the sallow Yankees, with their wide white trousers and straw hats, and the half-naked Indian, may be seen the native-born Californian, with his dusky visage and lustrous black eye, clad in the universal short tight jacket with its lace adornments, and velvet breeches, with a silk sash fastened round his waist, splashing away with his gay deerskin botas in the mudded water.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The appearance of the women is graceful and coquettish.  Their petticoats, short enough to display in most instances a well-turned ankle, are richly laced and embroidered, and striped and flounced with gaudy colours, of which scarlet seems to have the preference.  Their tresses hang in luxuriant plaits down their backs; and in all the little accessories of dress, such as ear-rings, necklaces, etc., the costume is very rich.  Its distinguishing feature, however, is the reboso, a sort of scarf, generally made of cotton, which answers to the mantilla of Old Spain.  It is worn in many different and very graceful fashions--sometimes twined round the waist and shoulders; at others, hanging in pretty festoons about the figure, but always disposed with that indescribable degree of coquettish grace which Spanish women have been for ages allowed to possess in the management of the fan and the mantilla.  Since these arrivals, almost every evening a fandango is got up on the green, before some of the tents.  The term fandango, though originally signifying a peculiar kind of dance, seems to be used here for an evening's dancing entertainment, in which many different <HI REND="italics">pas</HI>
125.sgm: are introduced.  I was present at a fandango a few nights ago, where a couple of performers were dancing "el jarabe," which seemed to consist chiefly of a series of monotonous toe and heel movements on the ground.  The motions of the foot were, however, wonderfully rapid, and always in exact time to the music.  But at these entertainments the waltz seems to be the standing dish.  It is danced with numerous very intricate figures, to which, however, all the Californians appear quite <HI REND="italics">au fait</HI>
125.sgm:<P>It is quite a treat, after a hard day's work, to go at nightfall to one of these fandangos.  The merry notes of the guitar and the violin announce them to all comers; and a motley enough looking crowd, every member of which is puffing away at a cigar, forms an applauding circle round the dancers, who sm ke like the rest.  One cannot help being struck by the picturesque costumes and graceful motions of the performers, who appear to dance not only with their legs, but with all their hearts and souls.  Lacosse is a particular admirer of these fandangos, and he very frequently takes a part in them himself.  During the interval between the dances, coffee is consumed by the senoras, and coffee with something stronger by the senors; so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>25 <HI REND="italics">th June, Sunday</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We had a great deal of serious conversation this afternoon upon the propriety of moving farther up the river, and trying some of the higher washings; for our last week's labour was a terribly poor yield.  We remembered Captain Sutter's account of how Mr. Marshall had first discovered the gold in the vicinity of his mill, and how plentiful it seemed to lie there.  Besides, the diggings are getting overcrowded; the consequence of which is, that we have had several of our pans and baskets stolen.  We therefore decided that, if we could sell our cradles to advantage--and there is some likelihood of this, for there is not a carpenter left all through these diggings to make others for the constant new-comers--to move higher up the Fork, and try our fortune at a less crowded spot.  There is one thing that I think I shall regret leaving myself, and that is, the fandango and the two or three pretty senoritas one has been in the habit of meeting at it almost every night.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The party leave the Mormon diggings--Cradles sold by auction--Laughter and biddings--The wagon sent back--The route to the saw-mills--A horse in danger--A miss at a Koyott--An antelope hit--Mr. Marshall--Venison steaks for supper--The saw-mills--Indians at work--Acorn bread--Where the gold was--How it was got--Gentlemen and horses--New-comers--"Yankee Doodle" and the "Star-spangled Banner."</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July</HI>
125.sgm: 2 <HI REND="italics">nd</HI>
125.sgm:<P>For these two cradles, therefore, we got three hundred and seventy-five dollars' worth of dust.  The same night we occupied ourselves in constructing strong bags, made of rough hides, and well strapped round the person for the conveyance of the gold dust and scales which we had already amassed.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On Wednesday morning, before sunrise, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>We found, on starting, that our horses could not carry all the provisions, and at the same time perform a good day's work.  We, therefore, left some of the more bulky articles under the charge of a man from San Francisco, known to Bradley, and departed.  We made good progress for a mile or two; and, as we crossed the brow of a hill, halted a moment to observe the busy aspect of the washings, as they appeared from a distance.  The country, as we ascended the stream, became hourly more hilly and broken.  Its general aspect was grassy, and the soil appeared fertile.  Here and there deep gullies crossed our path, over which we had great difficulty in urging the horses, heavily loaded as they were.  At one of these ravines, the animal which conveyed the tent-poles lost his footing, and went scrambling down the edge of the descent, bearing with him a whole avalanche of gravel and shingles.  Malcolm and Lacosse went after the brute, and succeeded in forcing it up by a less precipitous path.</P>
125.sgm:<P>At noon we halted and dined.  During the afternoon, we observed a sort of small jackall, of the kind called Koyott, hovering about the line of march.  It only occasionally showed itself amongst the long rank grass and bushes.  Bradley, however, got his rifle ready; but, although he fired several shots, the animal was too nimble or restlesss for even the practised eye and hand of a Yankee rifleman to be certain of his aim.  In a shot at a young antelope which bounded past, however, Bradley was more successful; and we were rejoiced at the prospect of a supper on tender venison.  In a few minutes he had slung the animal over his horse's haunches, and we proceeded on our route.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The country became more broken and mountainous as we advanced; and in approaching the location of the saw-mills, the hills appeared to rise nearly one thousand feet above the level of the Sacramento.  They were diversified by groves of gigantic pine and oak trees.  We were looking anxiously about for the saw-mills, when we heard the crack of a rifle; and presently a man in white linen trousers, with his legs defended by buckskin mocassins, wearing a broad Mexican sombrero, and carrying his rifle in his hand, approached us.  This person turned out to be Mr. Marshall.  He received us kindly, and asked the news from the lower washings, and also how matters were looking at Sutter's when we passed through.  Mr. Marshall had a gang of fifty Indians employed, and Captain Sutter had another party of nearly double that number, on the same bank of the river.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We encamped in a woody bottom, by the side of a small stream, which joined the main torrent here, and where there was good pasture for the horses.  Mr. Marshall's house was about a mile and a half further up the river.  After a good supper of venison steaks--thanks to Bradley's rifle--we turned in for the night.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Next day, Lacosse and M`Phail, attended by Horry, and driving two extra horses, rode down to the Mormon diggings, for the purpose of getting up the provisions which we had left behind.  Meantime, I walked out to reconnoitre our new quarters.  I soon arrived at the mills, and saw the spot where the discovery of the gold had first been made, by the torrent laying bare the sides of the mill-race.  Here I met Mr. Marshall again.  Of course the operations of the saw-mill had been stopped, for the workmen were employed in the vicinity, either above or below the works, digging and washing on their own account.  Mr. Marshall paid the Indians he had at work chiefly in merchandize.  I saw a portion of the gang, the men dressed for the most part in cotton drawers and mocassins, leaving the upper part of the body naked.  They worked with the same implements as those used in the lower washings.  Not far from the place where most of them were employed, I saw a number of the women and children pounding acorns in a hollow block of wood with an oblong stone.  Of the acorn flour thus produced they made a sort of dry, hard, unpalatable bread, which assuredly none but an Indian stomach could digest.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Upon instituting a more particular search into the nature of the country and our prospects, we found that the places where the gold was found in the greatest abundance, and in the largest masses, were the beds of the mountain torrents, now dry, which occasionally descend into both the forks of the stream.  We clambered up some of those precipitous ravines, and observed, upon several occasions, as we scrambled among the shingle, shining spangles of gold.  The soil was evidently richly charged; but the great disadvantage was the comparative distance from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
125.sgm: 3 <HI REND="italics">rd</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
125.sgm: <HI REND="italics">4th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Several new-comers from the Mormon diggings passed us to-day, bound further up the Fork.  In the morning Mr. Marshall paid us a visit, to know how we were getting on.  He had heard from Captain Sutter, who stated that he thought of starting for the upper or lower washings himself, as soon as he had gathered in his wheat harvest, which he hoped to accomplish during the present week.  A number of wild ducks haunt the river, and especially abound in the grassy and weedy pools which skirt its edges.  This morning we shot some of these, and found them an agreeable addition to our dinner bill of fare.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The afternoon has been passed among the greater part of the miners here as a celebration of the anniversary of American Independence.  Something like an out-door feast was got up, and toasts were drunk and songs sung; "Yankee Doodle," and the "Star-spangled Banner," being the chief favourites.  Bradley made a smart speech; and, contrary to his usual practice, complimented us Englishmen with a round of pleasant allusions to the mother country.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The party again shift their quarters--The river forded--Horry in the water--Mr. Sinclair's party of Indians--Deserted Indian Villages--Weber's Creek--A halt made--Cradles hollowed out--A commotion in the camp--Colonel Mason arrives on a tour of inspection--His opinions as to what Congress should do--Military deserters, and what ought to be done with them--Return of Colonel Mason's party to Sutter's Fort--Bradley accompanies it with a stock of gold--How the gold was packed, and what precautions were taken for its security.</P>
125.sgm:<P>WEBER'S CREEK.-- <HI REND="italics">July</HI>
125.sgm: 9 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We struck our tents yesterday morning, loaded our horses, and took our departure.  The river, at the fording-place, was broad and rapid, but shallow; the principal difficulties in the ford arose from the number of smooth round stones, covered with green rince slime, which formed the bed of the river, and over which our horses stumbled, with a violence which threatened to disturb the fastening of their burdens.  No disaster, however, actually occurred, except to poor Horry, whose horse stumbled over a large boulder, and pitched its luckless rider over its head into the water, to the undissembled delight of the entire party, who hailed the poor sailor's discomfiture with loud bursts of laughter.  Horry made the best of his way to the farther bank, without paying any more attention to his horse, which, however, emerged from the water, and was on dry land as soon as Horry himself.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We now proceeded along the right bank of the North Fork, and on the opposite side we caught a glimpse of a party of Indians at work, which we afterwards learned to be that of Mr. Sinclair.  In one week this party had gathered sixteen pounds troy of fi e washed go d dust.  They worked hard, were well fed, and had liberal rations of "strong water" daily.  We rested a couple of hours at noon, in a pleasant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>During our afternoon march we passed several deserted Indian villages--the round-shaped skeletons of the huts alone remaining to mark the former settlements.  Not a member of the tribe, however, was to be seen; the beaver may build and the deer pasture hereabouts in peace.  Towards evening we entered the valley drained by the stream called Weber's Creek.  Its appearance was very beautiful, and the stream descended along a steep rocky bed, foaming round large boulder stones, and tumbling down low ledges of granite.  The grassy slopes of the valley are cut up in all directions with rivulets, the courses of which are marked by luxuriant underwood, rank grass, and groves of stunted oaks.  Two or three arbours were to be seen with one or two rude-looking tents, all with blazing fires before them.  We encamped forthwith, hoping the next day to reach a station which we could make available for our purpose.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We were early on the move this morning, and soon saw several parties of threes and fours washing in the bed of the river, or exploring the mountain gorges with their shovels and mattocks.  The weather was getting oppressively hot; indeed, the further we got from the Sacramento the hotter did it become.  The sea-breeze never penetrates here to refresh us, and, except when an occasional squall comes sweeping down from the hills, the air is very oppressive.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We travelled but slowly, still in an hour or so we reached a station, about fifteen miles as the crow flies, or about twenty by the windings of the stream, from the point of its junction with the Americanos, where we determined to try our luck.  There was quite a camp here--not to the same extent as the Mormon diggings, but still the washers were numerous, and the larger part of them were Indians.  Some few worked in the bed of the river, but the great majority were engaged in the ravines leading up the mountains.  The greatest quantity of gold dust was found in the former, while the latter yielded the best specimens of lump and scale gold.  We were told that, though the side gullies were very rich, yet they were more uncertain than the main stream.  Lumps of gold, weighing several ounces, were continually met with, but a morning was often wasted and nothing found; whereas, if a man stuck to the main stream, and washed all day long, he was sure of his ounce or couple of ounces of gold.  For these reasons we determined to stand by the river.  Our first business was to see if we could manage to construct a couple of cradles.  At a large store here we met with some pine planks, but the figure was most exorbitant.  Taking a hint from what we had noticed among the Indians at the saw-mills, we determined to fell a couple of stout trees, and hollow them out so as to serve our purpose.  We obtained the assistance of a man here, a ship's carpenter, and a most civil obliging sort of fellow, who gave us a day's help for thirty dollars.  He superintended the felling of the trees, and then put us in the way of proceeding with the work.  We found the toil sufficiently severe, and began to feel the heat, as I thought, to a far greater extent than was the case in the lower part of the country.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
125.sgm: 8 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:.--Yesterday we were employed, from early in the morning till beyond noon, in trimming and hollowing out our cradles.  While we were seated together outside the tent enjoying a few whiffs of our pipes and cigars, after a famous dinner of smoking-hot steaks and frijoles, we saw the camp below was all in commotion.  People were running out of their tents, and shouting to their neighbours, and gradually a little crowd was formed round a group of horsemen, who were just then brought to a halt.  That same feeling of curiosity which gets together a London crowd to see the lion on the top of Northumberland House wag his tail, caused us to make our way, with the rest of the gapers, down to Bennett's shanty, against which all this bustle appeared to be going on.  As soon as Bradley and myself could force our way a little through the crowd, we recognised in a moment the features of Colonel Mason.  The Colonel, who wore an undress military uniform, had just dismounted from his horse, with the intention, it appeared, of walking through the diggings.  In a couple of minutes' time my friend Lieutenant Sherman came up, and we were soon engaged in an animated conversation in reference to the gold district.  The fact was, the Governor was on a tour of inspection for the purpose of making a report to the Cabinet at Washington.  I took care to thank Lieutenant Sherman for his letter of introduction to Captain Sutter, and to explain to him the friendly manner in which Captain Sutter received me.  I then joined <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Colonel Mason next proceeded to visit Captain Weber's store, whither Bradley accompanied him.  On his return, Bradley informed us that the Colonel and his escort intended to set off on their way back to Sutter's Fort that very afternoon, and they reckoned upon encamping some few miles below the saw-mills that night.  Bradley then took me aside and asked me whether this would not be a good opportunity to send our stock of gold dust down to Captain Sutter, who would, for a reasonable commission, consign it to a merchant at Monterey on our account.  The weight of it was becoming cumbersome, and we were besides in constant apprehension of some unfortunate accident happening to it.  Now was the time, Bradley urged, to place all we had as yet realised in security.  He knew Colonel Mason--in fact, had served under him, and undertook, if the remainder of the party were agreeable, to carry the gold, under the protection of Colonel Mason's escort, to Sutter's Fort.</P>
125.sgm:<P>There was something reasonable in this proposal, and Colonel Mason, on being appealed to, said he would gladly give Mr. Bradley such protection as his escort would afford him, and would be, moreover, happy of his company.  Our party was, therefore, summoned together, and the whole, or nearly so, of the gold dust being produced, it was weighed in our presence, and found to amount to twenty-seven pounds eight ounces troy--valued at over four thousand six hundred dollars.  Bradley gave a regular receipt for this to the company, and engaged to obtain a similar one from Captain Sutter.  The gold dust was then packed in a small portmanteau well secured by numerous cords, and firmly bound on the pack-saddle of an extra horse, which Bradley was to ride alongside of, the bridle of the animal being secured to his arm, and its trail-rope made fast to the saddle of the horse which Bradley himself rode.  He was well armed with pistols and a rifle, and started with Colonel Mason's party a couple of hours before sundown--so that they might ford the river ere it was dusk.  After accomplishing this, they intended to ride part of the way by the light of the moon.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Smoking and sleeping--Fever, and how caused--Bradley returns--A doctor wanted--A doctor's fee at the mines--Medicine scarce--A hot air bath and a cold water bath--Indians engaged to work--Indian thimble-rigging--An Indian gamester, and the stake he plays for--More sickness--Mormons move off--A drunken dance by Indians--An Indian song about the yellow earth and the fleet rifle--An immodest dance by Indian women.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
125.sgm: 12 <HI REND="italics">th, Wednesday</HI>
125.sgm:<P>On Monday we commenced operations in the old style--digging, fetching water, and rocking the cradle.  The sun came blazing down with great power, causing headaches to most of the party, particularly Malcolm, who complained much.  The day's taking was very good; we having realised nine ounces with one machine, and seven and a half with the other.  At night, as Malcolm still continued to complain of his head, and as there was evidently a good deal of low fever about him, I gave him a dose of calomel and a febrifuge mixture, which by the morning produced a good deal of relief.</P>
125.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Bradley made his appearance during the forenoon, after a fatiguing ride from Sutter's Fort.  He had seen the Captain, had delivered the gold, and settled the transaction.  We were hard at work the whole of to-day.  In the evening a man came crawling into the tent to know if we had any medicines we would sell.  I told him I was a doctor, and asked him what was the matter.  He had been suffering from remittent fever of a low typhoid type.  I gave him bark, and told him he must lay up and take care of himself.  He said he would; but next day, during the intervals of fever, I saw him working away with his pan.  The news of there being a doctor in the camp soon spread, and I am now being continually called on to prescribe for a large number of patients.  An ounce of gold is the fee generally given me.  This sort of work is as much more profitable as it is less laborious than working at the cradle.  But the great drawback is that one has to do something else beyond advising.  People require physicking, and as I cannot submit to be deprived of the little stock of medicine I had brought with me in case of my own friends having occasion for it, I am obliged to give over practising in those cases where medicine is absolutely necessary.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The native Californians, both Indians and whites, have an universal remedy for febrile affections, and indeed for sickness of almost any kind; this is the temascal, a sort of hot air bath, shaped not unlike a sentry-box, and built of wicker-work, and afterwards plastered with mud until it becomes air-tight.  There is one of these machines at the Weber Creek washings, which has been run up by the Indians during the last few days.  One of them used it for the first time this afternoon, and to my surprise is still alive.  After a great fire had been made up close to the door--a narrow aperture just large enough for a little man to squeeze through--it was afterwards gradually allowed to burn itself out, having in the meantime heated to a very high degree the air in the interior of the bath.  Into this the Indian screwed himself, and there remained until a profuse perspiration was produced, which he checked forthwith by a plunge into the chilly water of the river.  Here he floundered about for a few minutes, and then crawled out and lay down exhausted on the ground.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The atmosphere continues exceedingly sultry, and the miners who work by the river, out of the shade, have in several instances sunk exhausted under the toil.  Dysentery, produced probably by unwholesome food, has also begun to show itself, and altogether the aspect of things is anything but cheerful.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
125.sgm: 15 <HI REND="italics">th, Saturday</HI>
125.sgm:<P>On visiting the encampment of our Indians, last night after work was over, I found about a dozen of them eagerly engaged gambling away--the stake, in some instances, being the supper which had just been served out to them--with an ardour equal to that of the most civilized gamesters.  So far as I could make out, the game had some analogy to our "thimble-rigging;" but appeared to be fairly played.  A small ball was passed by three of the Indians from hand to hand, with such rapid dexterity, that no eye could keep pace with their movements; three others watched it with peculiar eagerness.  Every now and then the latter made a correct guess, and one was scored in their favour--if wrong, a mark was scored against them.  The Indians are in general strongly addicted to games of chance, and they sometimes gamble away all the clothing on their backs.  I heard of an instance which occurred near the saw-mills, of an Indian who, after having lost every article of clothing he had, one after the other, to his more fortunate antagonist, staked his labour for a week against the cotton shirt which he had lost only a few minutes before.  He had a run of bad luck, and, when he left off, had to work for six weeks, at gold-washing, for his antagonist, who fed him on nothing better than acorn bread.  Mr. Neligh, who told me of this circumstance, had seen the man at work duly fulfilling his engagement.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The sickness amongst the miners continues to increase, and in our own party Lacosse has been laid up for two days with fever; however, I think he is now doing well.  The climate does not appear to be unhealthy.  It is the exposure to the work which does the mischief.  There is some talk afloat among our party of removing further up the country, nearer to the mountains, where gold is said to be in greater abundance.  Yesterday, a large party--many of them Mormons--started for the Bear River, a small stream which runs into the Sacramento, and is said to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>The Indians at work here have caused the price of pisco and whisky to rise to a most exorbitantly high rate.  They content themselves with feasting on the bitter acorn bread, and spend all their earnings on "strong water" and a little finery.  Sometimes a party of them, when intoxicated, will get up one of their wild dances, when the stamping and yelling are of a far more fearful character than is generally the case at these singular exhibitions.  The dance begins generally with a rude song, the words being of the usual harsh guttural character, but the ideas are generally striking and peculiar.  One has been explained to me which recites the praises of the "yellow earth," because it will procure the Shoshonee the fleet rifle with which he can slay his Pawnee foe.  It says nothing, however, about the "strong water," which renders the arm of the war-chief weaker than that of a child; for, with all their vices, there is still that pride about the Indian character which makes them ashamed of those weaknesses they are unable to resist.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Frequently, while the Indian warriors repose from their exertions, after the termination of one of these wild dances, the women of the tribe will occupy their place; but in general their postures and movements are indelicate in the extreme.  But modesty is hardly to be looked for in the amusements of savage life.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The party determine to start for Bear River--Sickness at the mines--What happened to a drunken Indian--An old trapper and his stories--Captain Sutter's first settlement--Indians partial to horse-flesh--A score of horses stolen--An expedition to revenge the theft--A rancheria demolished--A chorus of yells--Indians routed and then brought to labour--Tin--Bear River--The trapper engaged as guide--Preparations for the journey--An addition to the party--The journey commenced--Rocky country--Cross the North Fork--An accident to a mule--Flour cakes and bacon scraps--Resume the journey--Precipitous ravines--End of the journey.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monday, July 24th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>As we were lying down in the shade of the tent yesterday, we were visited by an old trapper called Joe White.  He had recognised Bradley and Don Luis, whom he had met on the coast, and we invited him to take coffee with us.  Joe White had come into this part of the country with Captain Sutter, whom he spoke very highly of, and of whose early efforts to form a settlement he gave us an account.  Their party was the very first of the white settlers in the wilderness.  They lived some time in a camp formed of the tented wagons they had brought with them, until they could run up a few rough shanties, and some protecting outworks.  During the time they were constructing these, and indeed for some months afterwards, they were dreadfully harassed by the Indians, who made onslaughts on their cattle, carried away, killed, and eat both horses and oxen.  The Indians are by no means particular.  One night, after the party had been lulled into a sense of security by the apparent friendly disposition of the Indians, who occasionally came into their camp, and no watch was being kept, upwards of a score of horses and mules were driven off; the loss of which Sutter's people knew nothing of until they woke up in the morning, and found the ropes all cut.  They started off at once on the trail, and soon found that it led to an Indian rancheria, about eight miles up the Sacramento.  This rancheria was, they believed, the refuge of the "Ingin varmints," as Joe White styled them, from whose depredations they were constantly suffering.  Captain Sutter determined to take signal revenge.  They returned to the Fort that day, but next morning started off in a strong party, each man armed with his never-failing rifle and big bowie-knife, and taking with them a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter and his party of trappers were somewhat startled at this proceeding, and the question immediately occurred to them as to where the men could be.  The party pushed their way homewards as fast as possible; leaving the rancheria burning and the squaws and children still yelling and whooping on the island.  It was as they expected.  On coming within two miles of the fort, they heard the crack upon crack of distant rifles.  Putting their horses to the gallop, they arrived just in time to see the Indians totally routed, and scampering away as fast as their horses would carry them into the woods.</P>
125.sgm:<P>After this double defeat, the tribes seem to have given up all idea of prosecuting a war against their new neighbours, and, gradually relinquishing their thievish habits, settled in the neighbourhood of the Fort--sometimes hunting and trapping for the pale faces, and at others labouring away at ditching and brick-making, being paid chiefly in articles of clothing and small allowances of pisco.  The trapper told us that Captain Sutter has now a tin coin in circulation, stamped with his name, and good for a certain amount of merchandize at the Fort.</P>
125.sgm:<P>After listening to a few more wonderful adventures of this sort, Bradley turned the conversation upon the country about Bear River.  The trapper said he knew it well, and had heard that there was plenty of gold there.  He asked him if he would undertake to guide us thither, and, after some bargaining, he consented.  The sum he was to have was sixty-five dollars and his food.  Considering the high rates of all things here, this was a low figure enough, but the old trapper candidly told us that he was sick and tired of paddling about in the water washing for gold, and that he would prefer a few days' jaunt in the wilderness.  The climate was much cooler further to the north, he informed us, and comparatively few miners had penetrated to the Bear Valley.  We had a long debate upon the matter, and ultimately it was determined to start the day after to-morrow (Wednesday).</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
125.sgm: 25 <HI REND="italics">th, Tuesday</HI>
125.sgm:<P>This evening three men, hearing of our intended expedition, offered to join the party.  These were Edward Story, an american lawyer, who had been one of the inferior alcaldes during the Spanish regime at Monterey; John Dowling, first mate, and Samuel Bradshaw, the carpenter, of an American whaling ship which they had left at San Francisco.  The lawyer was an intelligent person, conversant with the language of several of the tribes--the mate seemed to have his wits about him, and the carpenter would obviously be a great acquisition, particularly as we were now about to plunge even beyond the furthest outposts of civilization, where, in all probability, we may have to secure ourselves against attacks from the Indians without the possibility of any help beyond that which we could render to each other.  We were rather pleased with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July</HI>
125.sgm: 26 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Friday, July</HI>
125.sgm: 28 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>To-day our horses were quickly saddled and packed, and we started off in the faint grey of the morning.  It was chilly, but the sky was beautifully clear.  When the sun had fairly risen, however, we had no more cold to complain of.  The way was exceedingly difficult.  We toiled along precipitous ravines and gullies, and climbed up steep and rocky ridges, which cut and wounded the feet of the horses, and rendered our progress very slow.  The timber we passed was principally pine trees, with sharp pointed leaves and large cones, and occasionally we came upon a grove of evergreen oaks, more stunted in shape than was the case in the lower regions.  About mid-day we passed the source of the Rio de las Plumas, or Feather River, and after a most severe and in some respects forced march climbed the last rocky ridge which separated us from the Bear Valley.  The sun was near its setting as we pushed down the mountain slopes towards the river.  We found it a small stream flowing swiftly over a shingly bed to the westward, and encamped within hearing of its murmur, well pleased to have performed our toilsome journey.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>A rest--A solitude--No gold to be found--An exploring party--Good fortune--Food and security--More cradles--A fortified shanty in preparation--A dessert after dinner--Dejection--Thoughts about home--No other gold-finders to be seen--Mormon trail--Salt Plain and the Great Salt Lake--A weary day's journey without water--Saline exhalations--The inland sea and its desolate shores--A terrible whirlpool--The shanty finished--The trapper's services retained--The camp visited by an Indian tribe--A friendly sign--The pipe of peace--A "trade" with the Indians declined--Some depart and some remain--Provisions run short--Hunting expeditions--Something about a bear.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July</HI>
125.sgm: 30 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>To our great astonishment and disappointment, one by one we returned into the camp <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, August</HI>
125.sgm: 6 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"&iquest;No puede Vm. dormir?" said Don Luis to me, as be moved away towards the tent.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"No, Senor," replied I.  "Pienso a la veja Ingleterra; a mi Hermano y a mis amigos."</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Por ventura a una amiguita," observed Don Luis.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I laughed, and answering, "Es possible, Senor," went on writing.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We are now regularly settled on the Bear River, and have, as yet, seen no signs of human life round about us.  The reports, therefore, which we heard at Weber's Creek, of the gold-finders having penetrated into this valley, would appear to have been without foundation.  We have observed a fresh-made trail, which the old trapper seems to consider passes in the direction of the Truckee Lake; and we have noticed the remains of several camp-fires at different parts of the valley.  In all probability this trail has been made by the Mormon emigrants, who are reported to have gone on a gold-hunting expedition across the salt desert to the shores of the Great Salt Lake, a distance of seven or eight hundred miles.  The old trapper had some wonderful stories to tell about the dangers of the journey across the Salt Plain.  How that a man has to travel, from the first faint break of grey light in the morning, as hard as his horse will carry him, over a desert of white salt--which crunches and crumbles beneath his horse's tread at every step he takes--until the sun has gone down behind the tall peaks of the distant Sierra Nevada.  No water but of the most brackish kind can be procured to refresh either horse or rider through the whole of this weary route, while their lips are parched with thirst, and their eyes and nostrils become choked from the effects of the saline exhalations rising up on all sides from the desert over which they are passing.  And as for the Great Salt Lake, the desolate shores of this inland sea have been, for the most part, carefully avoided by both Indians and trappers, and no living being has yet been found daring enough to venture far on the bosom of its dark turbid waters; for a belief exists that a terrible whirlpool agitates their surface, ready to swallow up everything that may venture within the bounds of its dangerous influence.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Our cradles were finished on Monday, and the shanty on Saturday afternoon.  It includes a sort of outhouse for cooking, and the rude palisades around are quite sufficient protection for the horses against any attempts the Indians are likely to make to drive them off.  As soon as our building labours were over yesterday, we set to work digging and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
125.sgm: 8 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Yesterday, while we were at dinner, we were surprised by seeing a party of Indians approaching the camp from the direction of Truckee Lake.  They appeared not to have any hostile intentions, so we quietly awaited their approach.  The foremost chief held before him a long stick, with a bunch of white feathers dangling at the end.  Story explained to us that this was a friendly sign, and said we had nothing to fear from the party.  As they approached nearer towards us, they commenced dancing and singing, and we could soon perceive that very few among them were armed, and that altogether their appearance was anything but warlike and imposing.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Story went out to meet them, and shook hands with the few foremost chiefs.  When they reached the shanty, before the door of which we were seated, the chiefs gathered on the right hand side of us, and squatted themselves down upon the ground, when the pipe of peace was immediately produced by a veteran chief, and handed round.  I took a few whiffs with the rest, and then we learnt from our visiters that they were anxious to engage in a trade.  All that they had, however, were some few esculent roots and several bags of pine-nuts.  These last they roast and eat, but the taste is far from pleasant.  In exchange for them they wanted some charges of powder and ball.  Three of them, I noticed, possessed old Spanish muskets, of which they seemed particularly proud; they held them in the usual cautious Indian style, with the butt-end clutched in the right hand, and the barrel resting on the left arm.  A few of the others had bows and arrows slung across their backs.  We pleaded shortness of ammunition as our excuse for declining the trade.  Our provisions being run low made it impossible for us to offer them anything to eat, so we gave them a few blankets, which we could well spare, by way of keeping ourselves in their good graces; as, according to Story, they would have considered it a great affront if we had neglected to make them any presents.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The Indians remained and encamped outside our fort; last night and this morning the greater part took their departure.  The guard last night had orders to keep a sharp look-out, as we thought that our friends, even though they had no hostile intentions towards us, might still take a strong liking to some of our horses; but nothing of a suspicious character occurred.  Five young men of the tribe also have stopt behind, who wish to continue with us and work for us, but the low state of our commissariat renders it desirable not to accept their offer, unless our hunters return to-day with a good stock of provisions.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
125.sgm: 13 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:.  Our hunters have been very successful these last few days.  We have a large stock of elk meat, which we intend drying after the Indian fashion.  On Friday, while Don Luis and the trapper were out together, they were surprised by the sight of a huge bear right before them, slowly walking up towards them.  As soon as he arrived within about a hundred paces he squatted down upon his haunches for a few moments; but, as they got nearer to him, and just as they were preparing to give him a greeting in the shape of a couple of balls through his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Our Indians, after stopping with us a couple of days, during which period we compelled them to encamp at night-time outside the fort, took their departure early on Friday morning, or else during the night of Thursday, unperceived by our sentinels.  They, however, took nothing with them belonging to our party, except a couple of blankets we had lent to the two principal men.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>A rich mine of gold discovered--A guard both night and day--A good morning's work--An Indian scout--How he served Dowling, and how Dowling served him--A look-out--Indians seen advancing--A moment offear--A yell--Arrows and rifles--A wounded chief carried off--The field of battle--The return to the camp--Horses driven off by Indians--Where Jose&acute; was found--The wounded attended to--An after-dinner discussion--How the watch went to sleep, and how they were woke up--M`Phail missing--Wolves, deer, and a puma--A party set out in search of M`Phail.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
125.sgm: 20 <HI REND="italics">th, Sunday</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Since our friends, the Indians, had quitted us, we had always left some one or other on guard at the shanty, to keep watch over our horses and baggage, both during the day time and at night; for we knew that some of them were continually prowling about, our horses having frequently shown signs of uneasiness in the night time.  During the day there was generally one member of the party who remained at the shanty, having either Jose&acute; or the lad Horry in company.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The ravine we proposed moving to was nearly half-a-mile distant.  After breakfast, Bradley, Lacosse, and M`Phail, accompanied by the old trapper, set off on a hunting expedition, for our stock of provisions was now getting very low, leaving Jose&acute; and our legal friend at the camp.  The remainder of the party, including myself, proceeded to the ravine with our implements, and after working a few hours we succeeded in procuring more gold than we had obtained in any two days during the past week.  We were just on the point of returning to the camp to dinner when Dowling, who was standing near some sage bushes at the upper part of the ravine, heard a rustling among them, and on moving in the direction of the noise saw an Indian stealthily creeping along, who, as soon as he perceived he was discovered, discharged an arrow, which just missed its mark, but lacerated, and that rather severely, Dowling's ear.  The savage immediately set up a most terrific whoop, and ran off, but stumbled before he could draw another arrow from his quiver, while Dowling, rushing forward, buried his mattock in the head of his fallen foe, killing him instantaneously.</P>
125.sgm:<P>At this moment we heard the crack of a rifle in the direction of the camp, which, with the Indian's whoop at the same moment, completely bewildered us.  Every man, however, seized his rifle, and Dowling, hastening towards us, told us what had just occured.  All was still for the next few moments, and I mounted a little hill to reconnoitre.  Suddenly I saw a troop of Indians, the foremost of them on horseback, approaching at full speed.  I hastily returned to my companions, and we sought shelter in a little dell, determined to await there, and resist the attack, for it was evident that the savages' intentions were anything but pacific.</P>
125.sgm:<P>It was a moment of breathless excitement.  We heard the tramp, tramp of the horses coming on towards us, but as yet they and their riders were concealed from our view.  I confess I trembled violently, not exactly with fear, although I expected that a few moments would see us all scalped by our savage assailants.  It was the suddenness of the danger which startled me, and made my heart throb violently; but at that moment, just as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>In a few minutes the hill-sides were clear, and when we emerged from our shelter, all that was visible of the troop of warriers was three of them weltering in their blood, a bow or two, and some empty quivers, and a few scattered feathers and tomahawks, lying on the ground.  One by one, we gradually stole up to the top of the mound from whence I first beheld the approach of the enemy, when, finding that they were retreating at full speed in an opposite direction to the camp, we determined to proceed thither at once, fully prepared to find both Story and Jose&acute; murdered.  On our arrival, however, the former coolly advanced to meet us, and, in answer to our questions, stated that while he was superintending the proper browning of our venison, and Jose&acute; was filling the cans with water, he saw several of our horses scampering off, being in fact driven by three of four Indians on horseback.  "So quickly," said he, "was the movement effected, that before I could lay hold of my rifle they were nearly beyond range.  I fired, but without effect; and while I was looking about, I suppose in rather a bewildered manner, a party of something like forty Indians ran rapidly past.  I don't know whether they saw me or not, but I was by no means anxious to engage their attention, and was glad enough when the last passed out of sight.  I then went in search of Jose&acute; whom I found in the river up to his neck in water--a position which he thought afforded the safest means of concealment, as he knew his wild brethren would have sacrificed him, and perhaps eaten him forthwith, if they had chanced to discover him."</P>
125.sgm:<P>I at once set to work to dress Dowling's ear, and a wound which Don Luis had received in his hand.  The latter was merely a scratch, and the only danger likely to arise from it was in the event of the arrow by which it was inflicted having been poisoned.  But Don Luis felt so confident that this was not the practice among the tribes about here, that he would not allow me to take the usual precautions against such a contingency.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Our anxiety was now turned towards the party who were out hunting, and we anxiously looked for their appearance.  We had been so upset by the events of the morning, that we all felt disinclined to resume our labours after our meal was concluded, and we occupied ourselves in and about the camp, and in discussing the reason of the Indians' attack, and the probability of its being followed up by another.  The day wore on without any signs of our companions' return.  Towards evening, a rifle was fired off occasionally, to let them know of the danger which in all probability awaited them from an attack on the part of the Indians, and also to let the latter gentry know that we were on the look-out.  It was arranged that we should all keep watch until the arrival of our friends, to be the better prepared for any danger which menaced us and them; for we thought it not unlikely that the Indians were hovering about the camp, and might attempt a surprise.  Exhausted, however, by excitement and fatigue, one by one we dropped off to sleep.  I was wakened up by the report, as I thought, of a rifle, which was immediately followed by a horrible moaning, and the whole of us were soon on our legs, rifles in hand, in the expectation of being butchered in the course of a few minutes.  Bradley's well-known <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>In a few minutes Lacosse, Bradley, and the old trapper were by the camp-fire.  "Is M`Phail here?" asked all of them in a breath, anxiously looking round the circle.  The reply to the question was a sad one: he had not yet returned.  In answer to our inquiries as to where they had parted from him, and as to whether they had heard the rifle-shot which had disturbed us from our sleep, Lacosse replied that they had first missed him about three-quarters of an hour ago, but they did not feel any particular uneasiness at the circumstance, as they imagined he had ridden on first.  The night was rather dark, but Lacosse said the trail could easily be distinguished.  With regard to the shot we had heard fired, and the moans which followed it, Bradley said that shortly after missing M`Phail, they found some wolves were on their track, in all likelihood scenting the deer which they were carrying slung across their horses.  Fearing their noise might attract a more dangerous customer, in the shape of a puma, towards them, he fired a couple of pistols, which had the effect of wounding two of the pack, who rolled over with terrific howls.  It must have been Bradley's last shot that woke us, for none of us heard more than one shot fired.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Our three huntsmen set about preparing their supper immediately, in the full expectation that M`Phail would make his appearance before the venison was ready.  The supper was, however, cooked and eaten, but still no M`Phail arrived.  Another hour was suffered to elapse, and then we began to consider that it was nearly three hours ago since he was last seen, while at that time he was not more than one hour's distance from the camp.  It was evident, therefore, that he had either missed the trail or followed it in the opposite direction (which last was the old trapper's opinion), or else some more serious misfortune had happened to him.  We at once resolved to set out in search of him, leaving a guard behind at the camp.  The mate and Don Luis, being both, as it were, invalided, were of course among those who were to remain.  Bradley pleaded fatigue, and wished to stay in camp, and Biggs was left on guard with him.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Where M`Phail was last seen--The trapper's keen eyes--A nap in the open air--The Author woke up--Camp-fires--A surprise attempted--Horses left in charge--The tactics of the advance and the retreat--A shot from a rifle, and a man wounded--A salute--The rifle shot explained--Horses driven off A volley fired--Poor Horry scalped--The trapper promises vengeance--The wounded man--Grief at the loss of a friend--A mystery explained--Horry's grave--His funeral and monument.</P>
125.sgm:<P>IT must have been about one o'clock when we started, and, after half-an-hour's hard riding, we came upon the spot where M`Phail had last been seen.  We shouted for some time as loudly as our lungs would let us, but heard nothing, save the howl of some hungry wolf, in reply.  We then followed the trail at a brisk pace for eight or nine miles, but could discover nothing of our missing friend.  There seemed no possibility of ascertaining whether he had proceeded in the direction in question or not, as the marks made by the horses of the party in the morning, on their way out, somewhat confused the old trapper.  His keen eye, however, soon detected marks of a horse's hoof in a contrary direction, over the marks which the horses of the hunting party had made on their return.  These signs were not apparent beyond the spot we had reached.  In which direction they were continued, the night was too dark to discover.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Feeling that further search before daybreak would be useless, we resolved to get a few hours' sleep in the meantime; and, dismounting from our horses, secured them as well as we could, and placing our saddles on the ground, to serve as pillows, we wrapped our saddle-cloths round us, and were soon fast asleep.  Story and the lad Horry did first duty as sentinels.  While they were on guard I was wakened by a sharp tug at my leg, and while I was seizing hold of my rifle, I recognised Story's voice calling me by name.  He told me that, after keeping a sharp look-out for about half-an-hour, he observed several fires on the hill-sides, apparently about half-a-mile off; he had been watching them for some time, and at last determined to wake one of the party.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I went with him outside the little willow copse where we had fixed ourselves, and true enough there were the fires, belonging, as we thought, to a camp of Indians--very likely the same who had stolen our horses and attacked us in the morning.  We returned and woke the whole party; and, a consultation being held, it was decided, as we were well armed, and as the Indians had shown so much anxiety this morning to get beyond reach of our weapons, after tasting a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>We advanced cautiously, Malcolm and Bradshaw preceding the main body, about twenty paces apart.  The arrangement was for the five (namely, Lacosse, Story, the trapper, Jose&acute;, and myself) who composed the main body, to form a semicircle, of which the two scouts would compose the extreme points, and so to approach the Indians' camp, on nearing which we were to fire a volley on them from our rifles, and, wheeling round, drive our horses off and retreat.   We were within two hundred paces of the camp-fires when we were startled by the report of a rifle.  A shrill whistle followed; but we still advanced, and in a few moments came up with Malcolm and Bradshaw, the sailor being supported in the arms of his companion, who called out that the man was shot, and begged me to look to him.  The remainder of the party, hearing this, moved a few paces forward, levelled their rifles, and were on the eve of firing, when we were suddenly saluted, in true British vernacular, with an exclamation of "D-- your eyes, who goes there?"  This so startled our party that it saved the lives, very probably, of the whole camp.  They halted for a moment, and consulted together as to the course to be adopted.  A shot had been fired from the camp, and one of our men injured.  They, therefore, concluded that we had stumbled on the camp of one of those gangs of ruffians which were known to infest the hills at the foot of the Sierra Nevada.</P>
125.sgm:<P>At this juncture I ran up to the group with the intelligence that Bradshw had been injured by a shot from his own rifle, which had accidentally gone off, and which circumstance Malcolm had not, in the first instance, explained.  I told my companions that the man was seriously wounded in the leg; that I had merely bandaged it up with a handkerchief, and, leaving him in Malcolm's charge, had hastened forward to let them know the fact, that no more blood might be shed.  No sooner was this explanation given than we heard a loud shout from the lad Horry, followed, as I thought, by some faint groans; but none of the others heard them, and I thought I might have been mistaken.  It was concluded that he was merely shouting in accordance with our instructions, and no further notice was taken of the affair.  At that instant several horses came galloping by at full speed, passing within a few yards of us, and, following them, we could discern half-a-dozen mounted Indians.  We guessed the truth at once.  They had cut the bridles of our horses, and were driving them away to rejoin their fellows, which had been stolen from us in the morning.  We levelled our rifles and fired--reloaded, and fired again; and them, in the midst of a chorus of hallooing and screaming from the camp just before us, and the loud bellowing of the retreating Indians, started off in pursuit, and soon succeeded in turning our animals round, the Indians vanishing as rapidly as they had appeared.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Securing our steeds, we walked them back in the direction of the spot where we had left Horry, and, after some trouble, succeeded in finding the exact place, when, to our horror, we found the poor fellow quite dead, his body covered with blood, and his head and face dreadfully disfigured.  A closer examination showed us that the poor lad, after being murdered, had been scalped by the savages.  "Yes, yes," said the old trapper, "sure enough his scalp is dangling in the belt of one of them devils.  G--d! I'll send an ounce of lead through the first red-skin I meet outside them clearings.  We'll have vengeance--we will."</P>
125.sgm:<P>As soon as I was a little recovered from the horror which this scene naturally caused, I returned with the old trapper to the spot where I had left Malcolm and Bradshaw, hardly expecting, after what I had just witnessed, to find either of them alive.  I was, however, happy in my fears not being realized.  They were both as I had left them.  We carried the wounded man as well as we could between us back to the place where the remainder of the party were waiting for us.  Here we stayed till daybreak, silent and dejected.  For my own part I could have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The party strengthen their defences--No tidings of M`Phail--The trapper goes in search of him--Returns, having met with no success--M`Phail makes his appearance accompanied by guides--His adventures while away--Finds he is lost--Loses his rifle--No supper--Loses his horse--No food for three days--Sinks into a stupor--Is discovered by two Indians--Their humane treatment of him--They conduct him by slow marches to the camp.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
125.sgm: 27 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>On Monday, a council was held as to the propriety of sending another party in search of our missing friend; and, after some discussion, the trapper started off alone, taking rations with him to last him two or three days.  On Wednesday we set to work again, digging and washing, confining ourselves, however, to that portion of the stream and to those canones which were in the vicinity of the camp.  Upon the whole, we made good progress during the week, frequently averaging four ounces of gold dust and flakes a-day per man.  Early on Wednesday the trapper made his appearance, but he had returned without any tidings of our missing friend.</P>
125.sgm:<P>It was upon Thursday evening, as we were returning to the camp after a hard day's work, that we were delighted at perceiving our comrade M`Phail, whom we had given up for lost, making his way towards us, accompanied by a couple of Indians, fantastically dressed in the Spanish fashion, the costumes having been probably purchased by the sale of gold dust lower down the country.  Our friend was, of course, joyfully received, and a special can of pisco punch brewed in honour of his return.</P>
125.sgm:<P>His adventures since his separation from the party were soon related.  He had turned aside to water his horse at a small rivulet, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Finding that he had no knowledge of the country about him, he determined to encamp for the night, and accordingly laid his head on his saddle, wrapped himself up in his cloak, and went supperless to sleep.  When he awoke in the morning, he found that his horse, which he had tethered to a neighbouring stunted tree, had strayed away, and although he followed his trail for some time, he was eventually obliged to give up the search.  The remainder of this and the following day he wandered about at random, amidst a wild and sterile country, furrowed with tremendous chasms several hundred feet in depth, and the edge of which it was necessary to skirt for miles ere a crossing-place could be found.  During this time poor M`Phail fared very hardly.  He saw numerous herds of elk, but they bounded past unharmed: he had no rifle.  He tried in vain to find some edible roots, and was at length reduced to the necessity of chewing grass and the pith of alder trees.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Throughout this period his sufferings were excessive; but as the time passed and brought no relief, he experienced a sickness and nausea of the most gnawing and horrible description.  He became so weak that he could hardly stand.  At length at sunset, on the third day of his wanderings, he laid himself down upon a spot of grass, and fell into a kind of stupor, in the full belief that he would only wake in the agonies of death.  It was then that he was discovered by the two Indians who brought him to the camp.  They behaved with great humanity towards him, allowing him, however, to eat, first of all, only a few morsels of the dried meat which they had with them, that he might not harm himself by over-eating, after such a lengthened fast.  As his stomach by degrees recovered its tone, they permitted him to take further nutriment; and after encamping with them on that and the following night, he felt sufficiently recovered to proceed on his journey to the camp.  His kind benefactors understood a few words of Spanish, and he was enabled to explain to them the part of the country he wished to reach.  They undertook to guide him thither--told him they would arrive there after having slept once, and by slow marches made their way to Bear Valley, which they reached on the evening of the second day.  M`Phail expressed his surprise on finding that he had wandered no greater distance off.  He showed his gratitude to his guides by presenting them with the two large holster pistols which he brought with him from Oregon; and on the following morning they took their departure from the camp.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The Author inclined to return to the coast--Sickness in the camp--Provisions run low--What is to be done with the gold?--Proposal to convey it to the coast--Short rations--Indians visit the camp--The invalids of the party--The conveyance of the gold again discussed--Suspicions began to arise--Captain Sutter's receipt missing--Bradley's explanation--Further discussion about the gold--The matter at last arranged--No chance of rain.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
125.sgm: 29 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:.--We have led a lazy life of it these last few days.  The excitement we have lately undergone has unfitted for regular labour; and, besides, one has had altogether a tolerably long spell of toil.  Although, ever since we have been fairly settled here--now about a month--we have not worked more than from four to five hours daily, and have taken it by turns to go out on hunting expeditions, still I think most of us have had enough of it; and were it not that the rainy season will soon set in, when we shall be compelled to give over work, I should, for my own part, feel inclined to return to the coast forthwith.  Sickness has begun to show itself in our camp, and we have three men now laid up: Bradshaw, whose wound, though healing, will still confine him for many days; Biggs, who has had a severe attack of fever, but is now recovering fast; and Dowling, who lies inside the shanty in an almost helpless state.  My stock of drugs, too, is nearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Our provisions have run very low; nearly the whole of our flour is exhausted, and we are forced to live on the produce of our hunting expeditions.  The little flour we have is set apart for the invalids of the party.  Yesterday our hunters came in, after being absent all day, with only a black-tailed deer and a couple of hares; quails, however, are tolerably plentiful.  Lacosse and the trapper have volunteered to set off to Sutter's, and bring us up a supply of breadstuffs sufficient to last us until the sickly season sets in.  I believe it is arranged for them to start off tomorrow.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm: 1 <HI REND="italics">st</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm: 2 <HI REND="italics">nd</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Three Indians came into the camp last night, belonging, we believe, to some tribe no great distance off.  We gave them a good supper; and after it was over we took care to make as much display as possible of our firearms and bullet-pouches, and to see that our horses and mules were well tethered before we turned in for the night.  Story and M`Phail were the first guard.  The three Indians wrapped themselves up in their blankets, and slept just outside the tent; and after a good breakfast in the morning took their departure, shaking hands with our party all round, and expressing by other signs their satisfaction at the treatment they had met with.  Biggs is nearly recovered from his attack, and will commence work again in a couple of days; meanwhile, he is doing guard duty.  Dowling and Bradshaw are still both very ill.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm: 3 <HI REND="italics">rd, Sunday</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Yesterday evening I took an opportunity of speaking privately to Malcolm and M`Phail in reference to Bradley's proposition, and also in reference to his and Don Luis's peremptory dismissal of Story's suggestion, without even allowing it to be discussed.  We then brought a circumstance to our recollection which had never struck us before, namely, that neither of us had ever seen Captain Sutter's receipt for the gold Bradley had deposited in the Captain's charge, and we determined to bring the matter up the first opportunity.  To-day, therefore, while we were at breakfast, Malcolm asked Bradley if Captain Sutter had given a receipt for the gold, when he answered "Yes, certainly;" but, to our surprise, stated that he had had the misfortune to burn it.  He went on to say, that while on his return to Weber's Creek, during a halt he made, he had struck a light for his cigar, and had incautiously used the receipt for that purpose.  He had mentioned the matter to Don Luis, he said, the same day he returned.  Malcolm, M`Phail, and myself, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>After dinner, I brought the subject forward by observing, that if it was intended Bradley's plan should be carried out, Malcolm would desire to form one of the party; and as an excuse for his going, I stated that I wished him to get me a supply of drugs at San Francisco, as the little stock I had brought with me was quite exhausted;--foolish-like, not thinking at the time that Bradley and Don Luis could have procured them quite as readily as Malcolm, and that I was therefore giving no reason at all for his accompanying them.  Malcolm, however, came to my relief, by stating he had business at San Francisco, as he wished to see the captains of some of the vessels in the harbour there that might be bound for the Columbia River.  Bradley gave Don Luis a side-look, and said that no ships bound for the Columbia would be found at San Francisco at this time of the year.  Biggs, however, who knew more about the shipping at that port than any of us, observed there would be; and rather a warm discussion ensued, which was interrupted by Story and M`Phail both saying to Bradley, that as Malcolm really wanted to go to San Francisco, they had better go in company.  As there could be no possible objection to this course, it has been finally arranged for them to start off on the 5th (Tuesday).  Jose&acute; was to be left behind.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The takings of the past week have been very good, considering that we have two of our party absent, and three laid up with illness.  The sky has been a good deal overcast to-day; but still, from what I learn, there is no chance of rain for another month.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The party start for the coast--How the carrying of the gold was arranged--The escort--Character of the country they passed through--Halt at noon--An alarm--A discovery--The escort return, keeping a sharp look-out--A merry evening--The narrative resumed--A loud whistle--"The best part of the gold is lost"--The party are sullen and angry--Malcolm is missing--Don Luis's explanation--A lasso whirls through the air--A horse shot--Malcolm falls to the ground--Bradley fires, and with effect--Retire to cover--A discharge of rifles--The enemy wheel off--Malcolm's horse is missing--Malcolm found to be insensible--More horsemen--Tomas Maria Carillo--Robberies at the mines--Brutal conduct--A litter procured--Malcolm conveyed to a shanty--A kind Californian woman--A volley of inquiries about the gold--"It is the doctor you have to thank for that"--The Author's reflections.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm: 5 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We started off soon after sun rise, amidst the faint cheers of our invalided companions, and, as it was necessary for the escorting party to return to the camp that night, it was agreed that we were to retrace our steps at noon or thereabouts.  The commencement of our ride was through an open country, broken up by boulders of granite and clumps of dark grey sage trees, when, after ascending some low rocky hills, their summits crowned with a dense forest of gigantic pines, we entered a grassy valley, lined with groups of noble cedars, whose spreading branches offered a most inviting shade.  Every now and then, we had to make our way down the sides of huge chasms which intercepted our progress, and then to toil slowly up the difficult ascent.</P>
125.sgm:<P>At noon we halted and took shelter from the sun in a little dell with a gushing spring bubbling up in the midst, and a patch of willows fringing the banks of the running stream.  We scampered our horses down it, dismounted, and, turning them loose to graze, seated ourselves at the base of a huge rock of granite.  Our wallet of provisions was opened, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Feeling rather fidgetty at the incident of the morning, we passed the spot where it had taken place, keeping an anxious look-out in every direction, and after a hard ride of several hours, reached the camp shortly after sundown, glad that we had escaped any disaster.  We had a merry evening of it; a double allowance of whisky was served out, and we drank our friends' safe arrival and return.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I now sit down for the first time, after a lapse of several weeks, to resume the continuation of my narrative.  Late in the evening of the 5th, while my companions were chatting over the fire, and I was engaged in writing, we were interrupted on a sudden by a loud whistle, the note of which I thought I could not be mistaken in.  "Sure that's Bradley," exclaimed I; the others thought not, and, catching up their rifles, examined the flints.  The whistle, when again repeated, convinced every one, however, that my first surmise had been correct.  In another minute Bradley galloped up to us, and Don Luis soon followed after; but, to our astonishment, Malcolm was not of the party.  "My friends," exclaimed Bradley, "a sad disaster; the best part of the gold is gone--lost beyond a doubt."  "Lost!" said I, expecting some treachery on the part of Bradley and Don Luis; "How? I don't believe it; I never will believe it."  Bradley gave me an angry look, but said nothing.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Where's Malcolm?" exclaimed I.  "Dead by this time, I am afraid," replied Bradley.  "Good God!" I exclaimed aloud, and involuntarily muttered to myself, "Then you have murdered him."  I noticed Bradley examined the countenances of the whole party by turns, and, as my eye followed his, I saw that every one looked sullen and angry.  He, too, evidently saw this, and said nothing more the whole evening.  Don Luis, however, volunteered the following explanation of the mystery.</P>
125.sgm:<P>He informed us that, after we had parted from them, they put their horses into a quick trot, to escape as soon as possible into a more agreeable-looking sort of country.  They suspected some vagabond Indians were hovering about, and as the ground they were travelling over afforded too many opportunities of concealment to gentry of their character, they were anxious to reach a more open district.  Their road lay, for several miles, over a succession of small hills, intersected by valleys covered with stunted oak trees, and with here and there a solitary pine.  Just at a point, when they were winding round a ridge of hills, which they imagined separated them from the Sacramento Valley, having a small skirting of timber on their left hand, he, Don Luis, being slightly in advance of Bradley and Malcolm, happened to turn his head round, when he saw a horseman stealthily emerging from the thicket, at a point a short distance in their rear.  In a very few moments another horseman joined the first, and before Don Luis could give an alarm, the second rider, who, it seems, was an Indian, had risen in his saddle and had flung out his lasso, which, whizzing through the air true to its aim, descended over Malcolm's head and shoulders, Don Luis, who saw all this, immediately jumped from his horse, and, placing his finger on the trigger of his rifle, fired just as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"Our first care," continued Don Luis, "was to see to poor Malcolm, and our next object was to go in pursuit of the ruffians.  On intimating as much to our new friends, to our surprise they declined to render us any assistance.  Their curiosity, which it seems was the only motive that brought them towards us, had been satisfied, and I felt disgusted at the brutality of their conduct when they coolly turned their horses' heads round, and left us alone with our dying friend, not deigning further to notice our appeals to them for assistance.  No, they must set to work again, digging and washing, and we might thank ourselves that their coming up had saved <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"The litter they brought was formed of branches of trees tied together, and covered thickly over with blankets.  On this Malcolm was slowly borne down the hill-side, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>In reply to my inquiries, Don Luis said that he thought there were no bones broken, but poor Malcolm was dreadfully bruised, and his flesh in parts much lacerated.  He feared, however, that he had experienced some severe internal injuries.  As it was utterly impossible for me to have found my way to him that night, I determined to take a short nap and hurry to him the following morning.</P>
125.sgm:<P>During Don Luis's recital I did not for one moment think of the gold which we had lost; all my sympathies were with my poor friend.  But, at the conclusion of Don Luis's narrative, I saw that but few of my associates participated in my grief.  Don Luis was immediately assailed with inquiries rudely addressed to him in reference to the missing gold.  In reply, he stated that we all knew that Malcolm carried in his saddle-bags the great bulk of the gold they were conveying to San Francisco; and that, of course, when the robbers drove off the horse, the gold went with it.  "It is the doctor you have to thank for that," growled out Bradley; and though I could not see the matter in this light, still I could not help thinking of my own distrustful disposition, which, in reality, had been the cause of making Malcolm a party to the conveyance of the treasure; this, in fact, had in all probability sacrificed my friend's life.  I thought of his poor wife and children in Oregon, who would be waiting in vain for his return, which he, poor fellow, had delayed so long, in the hope of going back to them laden with wealth.  Throughout the whole of the night most of the party remained gathered around the camp-fire--now in sullen silence, and now expressing their bitter dissatisfaction at the arrangements which had led to the day's misfortune.  And when the first faint light of daybreak showed over the tall peaks of the snowy mountains, it discovered us looking haggard and dejected, alike wearied and disgusted with everything around.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The stock of gold remaining weighed and shared--Squabbling over it--The party separate--The Author and others start off--They meet with Lacosse and the trapper--Lacosse's explanation--Arrive at Sutter's--Purchase flour at eighty-five dollars a barrel--Camps of miners--A gold-washing colony--Encamped for the night--Horses and flour missing in the morning--Visit a big bony American--A hole threatened in their skulls--How quarrels are settled--Lacosse promises to join the party at Sutter's--The march resumed--Arrive at Malcolm's shanty--The doctor prescribes for his patient--Malcolm's first idea of the lasso--The party leave for Sutter's.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We made a hasty meal from our scanty stock of provisions on the morning of the 6th, and directly it was over--just as I was about saddling my horse, to start off to visit poor Malcolm--Don Luis informed me that our companions seemed all to be of opinion that it would be best to share the stock of gold still remaining at once, when those that preferred it could make their way to the settlements, and the others could continue working, if they pleased, on their own account.  I had no objection to offer to this proposition, and the gold was all collected together and weighed.  Bradley undertook the charge of Lacosse's share, and I was requested to convey Malcolm's to him.  Altogether we scraped up nearly forty-two pounds weight; for, besides the gold which Don Luis and Bradley had in their saddle-bags, there were a few pounds more belonging to the general stock.  This had to be divided equally, for the gold we had brought from Weber's Creek had been confided to Malcolm's charge in a separate bag.  It gave exactly four pounds two ounces a man--value seven hundred dollars.  This, with six hundred and fifty dollars, my share of the gold deposited with Captain Sutter, and the dust, scales, and lumps, arising from my share of the sale of the cradles, and the produce at the Mormon diggings, before Lacosse and Biggs joined us, would amount, in the whole, to over fifteen hundred dollars.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The greater part of the morning was taken up with squabbles respecting the weighing of the gold.  I took no part in it, and was content to receive just what was allotted to me.  I called M`Phail aside, and asked him what it was he intended doing.  He replied, that if any of the others would join him, he would start in pursuit of the men who had plundered us.  He was sorry the old trapper was not here, as, with his assistance, he felt certain the scoundrels might be ferreted out.  Feeling that the journey to poor Malcolm was too dangerous a one to be attempted alone, I was compelled to wait until I could prevail on some of the party to join me.  Don Luis, Jose&acute;, Bradley, M`Phail, and myself, at length arranged to start off.  Biggs, who was now quite well, preferred waiting behind a few days longer.  Neither Bradshaw nor Dowling were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>It was an hour beyond noon when we were in readiness to start.  We took two of the baggage-horses with us, to carry the tent-poles and covering, and a few utensils.  Our personal baggage was packed on the horses we rode.  Bradley and Don Luis rode in advance, Jose&acute; followed with the baggage-horses, and M`Phail and myself brought up the rear.  We had not proceeded more than four miles on the trail when we saw a couple of horsemen some distance ahead, advancing towards us.  As soon as we were within a couple of hundred yards of each other, we at once recognised them to be Lacosse and the old trapper.  Urging our horses into a smart trot, we soon arrived alongside of them; and, on inquiring what it was that had caused them to remain so long at Sutter's, and also how it was that they had neither the baggage-horses nor, apparently, any provisions with them, Lacosse gave us thisexplanation.</P>
125.sgm:<P>He stated that after leaving the camp, they struck the Sacramento River that night, and succeeded in reaching the upper settlements towards evening on the following day.  The next morning they pursued their journey and arrived at Sutter's Fort about sundown; they encamped near here for the night.  Flour was as much as eighty-five dollars a-barrel, and everything in the way of provisions was in the same proportion.  They purchased a stock of flour, and, packing their horses, moved off the same day.  In the evening they encamped some fifteen miles up the Sacramento, near the mouth of the Feather River, and within a hundred yards of the spot where the Indian village existed which Captain Sutter had destroyed; the whole circumstances connected with which we had already heard from the old trapper.  They resumed the journey early on the following morning, and by the evening had made about twenty-five miles, when they rested for the night near one of the little camps of miners, which they found scattered about the valley every few miles along the route.  The next day they pushed forward, and found these encampments much less numerous--only one or two were passed throughout the entire day.  Just after sundown, however, they saw by the fires up the hills quite a little colony of gold-washers, which they moved towards; and, after purchasing some provisions at a store recently opened there, for which they paid a most exorbitant price, they securely tethered their horses to stakes they had driven in the ground, and encamped for the night.  They did not think it necessary to keep watch, but when they awoke in the morning they found the baggage-horses had been driven off, and their packs stolen.  The horses they had been riding on were just as they had left them over night.  The trail-marks around the camp were too numerous to make anything out of them.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On making inquiries at several of the tents, they were treated in a very cavalier sort of manner.  No one, of course, knew anything about their horses and packs, and one big bony American even threatened to put a rifle-ball into them unless they left his shanty.  This was rather too much for them to swallow quietly, so they rated the fellow in round terms; but he very coolly reached his rifle down from a shelf above him, and told them that he would give them time to consider whether they would move off or not while he examined his flint, and if they were not gone by that time, he would make a hole in each of their skulls, one after the other.  Finding that he was coolly preparing to carry out his threat, they made their exit, and found some ten or twelve people gathered together outside.  From one of them Lacosse learnt that this man had shot two people since he had fixed himself at this spot, and that he was a terror to most of the miners in the camp.  It appears to have been no uncommon thing among them for a man to settle a quarrel by severely disabling his adversary.  There were several people at work down by the river, with their arms in slings, who had received serious injuries in quarrels with some of their fellows.</P>
125.sgm:<P>They thought it best to escape from such a state of things with as little delay as possible, and immediately mounted their horses and pursued their journey.  That night they took good care to encamp far enough off from any of the gold-finding fraternity.</P>
125.sgm:<P>It was now our turn to explain to Lacosse the reason of our return to the settlements, and the unfortunate circumstances that had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>We resumed our journey, and at sundown fixed our tent at the bottom of a steep hollow, and supped off the moderate rations we had brought with us from the camp.  The night was quite frosty, and when I awoke in the morning, my limbs were numbed with cold.  We prepared our coffee, and partook of our slight breakfast, then, saddling the horses, resumed our march.  It was late in the evening when we reached the rude shanty to which poor Malcolm had been conveyed a couple of days since.  It was an anxious moment to me; but I was gratified to find that he had so far recovered from the injuries he had sustained as to be able to sit up and to take some little nourishment.  He told me that beyond the severe bruises with which his body was covered, and a wound in the fleshy part of his leg, he did not think he was otherwise injured.  Throughout the whole of yesterday he had experienced the most violent pains in his head; but a comfortable sleep into which he had fallen last night had, to all appearances, entirely deprived him of them.  He was troubled though, he told me, with a sickening sensation, which made him loathe anything in the shape of food.  I at once prescribed such remedies as I thought necessary to be applied immediately, and left him in charge of his kind nurse until the morning.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I was at his bedside shortly after the sun rose, and watched by him until he awoke.  Another good night's rest had greatly benefited him.  During the day, recurring to his misfortune, he told me that when the lasso first fell over his shoulders, he fancied for the moment that he was in the gripe of some wild beast, but immediately he felt himself drawn from his horse, the truth became apparent to him.  He was stunned by the fall, and lay insensible on the ground, quite unconscious that the horse of one of the robbers had trampled upon him, as had evidently been the case.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Don Luis, Bradley, M`Phail, and Jose&acute; left us about noon on their way to Sutter's Fort.  I promised to rejoin them in a few days, if Malcolm so far recovered as no longer to be in need of my services.  I was in great hopes of such a result, as he showed evident signs of improvement since I saw him the previous day.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The gold district--Sickness and selfishness--The dead become the prey of the wolf--Malcoml's gradual recovery--The kindness of his nurse--A malaria--Life and property alike insecure--The wealthy gold-finder laid in wait for--Bodies in the river--Gold for a pillow--Robberies--Rags--Brandy at a dollar a-dram--The big bony American again--Sutter's Fort--Intelligence of Lacosse--Intelligence of the robbers--Sweeting's Hotel again--A meeting--"El Capitan"--Desertions from the ships--Andrea's offer to a captain--The first Alcalde gone to the mines--The second Alcalde follows his superior--Start for Monterey in pursuit of Andreas--Board the vessels in port--A deserter arrested--Leave Monterey--Cross the coast range--Meet with civilized Indians--Intelligence of the robbers--Indian horse-stealers--Continue the pursuit--Abandon it and return to Monterey.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I STAYED with Malcolm throughout the next few days, and spent a good part of my time out of doors among the gold-washers, but still I felt no inclination to take part in their labours.  Fever was very prevalent, and I found that more than two-thirds of the people at this settlement were unable to move out of their tents.  The other third were too selfish to render them any assistance.  The rainy season was close at hand, when they would have to give over work, but meanwhile they sought after the gold as though all their hopes of salvation rested on their success.  I was told that deaths were continually taking place, and that the living comrades of those whose eyes were closed in that last sleep when "the wicked cease from troubling and the weary are at rest," denied the poor corpses of their former friends a few feet of earth for a grave, and left the bodies exposed for the wolf to prey upon.</P>
125.sgm:<P>In a couple of days Malcolm was sufficiently recovered no longer to require my assistance.  At his instigation, I took my departure towards Sutter's Fort, where M`Phail or Lacosse might perhaps still be waiting for me.  I felt that he was in good hands, and that his kind Californian nurse and her husband would do all that they could for him.  Their kind treatment of my poor friend offered a striking contrast to the callous selfishness around.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I journeyed by slow marches along the banks of the Sacramento, passing several colonies of gold-finders on my way.  At noon I halted at one of these, and loitered some little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>According to the accounts I heard, life and property were alike insecure.  The report ran, that as soon as it became known that a man had amassed a large amount of gold, he was watched and followed about till an opportunity presented itself of quietly putting him out of the way.  There had been but few known deaths, but the number of persons who had been missed, and whose own friends even had not thought it worth while to go in search of them, was very large.  In every case the man's stock of gold was not to be found in his tent; still there was nothing surprising in this, as every one made a point of carrying his gold about him, no matter how heavy it might happen to be.  One or two dead bodies had been found floating in the river, which circumstance was looked upon as indicative of foul play having taken place, as it was considered that the poorest of the gold-finders carried fully a sufficient weight of gold about them to cause their bodies to sink to the bottom of the stream.  Open attempts at robbery were rare; it was in the stealthy night time that thieves prowled about, and, entering the little tents, occupied by not more than perhaps a couple of miners, neither of whom, in all probability, felt inclined to keep a weary watch over their golden treasure, carried off as much of it as they could lay their hands on.  By way of precaution, however, almost every one slept with their bag of gold underneath their pillow, having a rifle or revolver within their reach.</P>
125.sgm:<P>That same night I reached the camp of gold-washers, where Lacosse and the trapper had had their horses and packs of provisions stolen from them.  The robbery, I believe, was committed by men almost on the verge of want, who thought it a more convenient way of possessing themselves of a stock of provisions than performing a journey to the lower settlements for that purpose would have been, and a cheaper way than purchasing them here, where they run scarce, and where the price of them is exorbitantly high.  Other things are in proportion.  Clothing of any description is hardly to be had at any price, and the majority of the miners go about in rags.  Collected round a rude shanty, where brandy was being dispensed at a dollar a-dram!  I saw a group of ragged gold-diggers, the greater part of them suffering from fever, paying this exorbitant price for glass after glass of the fiery spirit, every drop of which they consumed was only aggravating their illness, and, in all probability, bringing them one step nearer to their grave.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The big bony American, who treated Lacosse and the trapper in such a peremptory manner, and who seemed to be the terror of these diggings, was pointed out to me.  I learnt, however, that he had accumulated a very large amount of gold, over sixteen thousand dollars' worth, it was said; and his suspicions that parties were lying in wait to plunder him of it was the cause of his acting as he had done.  He thought they only came to his shanty with an excuse, for the purpose of observing its weak points, and that no doubt they had a scheme in their heads for robbing him, either at night time, or while he was absent digging and washing during the day.  The men he had shot, it seems, were common thieves--one, a deserter from the garrison at Monterey, and the other belonging to a similar band of robbers to that by which our party had been attacked, and our gold carried off.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I reached Sutter's Fort the next day, and found it like the most crowded localities of some of our great cities, with the exception that the bulk of the people we met with belonged to a totally different race.  I saw Captain Sutter for a few moments, when he informed me that Mr. Bradley and his party had left a couple of days ago; and that a gentleman, accompanied by a man named Joe White, who, as the Captain said, used to trap for him before the gold fever came up, had been making inquiries at the Fort respecting Mr. Bradley that very day.  I at once saw that this could be no other than Lacosse, and set off to see if I could meet with him.  After some search, I was fortunate enough to discover him at the newly opened hotel here, where he had intended stopping for the night.  I remained with him and shared his room--a little box not more than ten feet by twelve, or thereabouts; but we considered ourselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>I heard from Lacosse that Captain Sutter had informed him that the leader of the band of desperadoes who had plundered us had been seen down at the Fort with some of his companions not more than ten days ago.  He was quite sure he was right in the man; for Tomas Maria, who had been shot, belonged to his gang, and was, in fact, his chief lieutenant.  The name of El Capitan was Andreas Armjo; and Captain Sutter said he recommended Bradley to make his way to San Francisco, where, in all probability, he would meet with him, as when he left the Fort he had taken the road towards the coast.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The next day we started off towards San Francisco, and, from inquiries made on the road, found that we were on the correct track--Bradley, Don Luis, M`Phail, and Jose&acute;, having passed through a day or two previous.  We arrived at the end of our journey without meeting with any adventures worth noting, and at once made our way to Sweeting's hotel, glad to find it one of the few houses in this town that were not shut up.  Here we met with our friends, who had been there now nearly two days, and were then on the point of starting off in pursuit of Andreas and his comrades.  We learned from them, that directly they heard the important information which Captain Sutter had communicated to them, they started off in pursuit, but not with any expectation of coming up with the gentlemen they were in search of before arriving at San Francisco.  They had constant tidings of them all along the route, as El Capitan was too well known to many a poor ranchero whom he had plundered of the dollars produced by the sale of his hides, while on his journey home from the sea-coast.</P>
125.sgm:<P>When they arrived at San Francisco, they made inquiries whether any ships had recently left the harbour, and were glad to find that there was not a merchant vessel in port with enough hands on board to weigh the anchor.  Every ship had been more or less deserted by its crews, who had hastened off for a few weeks' labour at the gold-diggings.  They found, however, that Andreas Armjo and his men had been making inquiries on board of several of the vessels to ascertain when any of them left port.  On finding none were sufficiently manned to do so, they offered the captain of one schooner a thousand dollars to land them at any port in Mexico he pleased, and said they would themselves help to work the ship.  The captain, however, declined the offer.</P>
125.sgm:<P>After receiving this intelligence, they went to the house of the first alcalde, to consult with him on what steps should be taken to arrest the robbers, who were then doubtless at some place near the coast.  They found, however, that he had gone to the mines with the rest of the people, and they made their way to the residence of the second alcalde, in the hope of being more fortunate; but he too had gone to the mines with his superior.  Further inquiries satisfied them that there was not an officer of justice left in the town of San Francisco, and they had therefore determined to make their way forthwith to Monterey, as, in all probability, the gang would proceed there in the hope of meeting with a ship.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Lacosse and myself determined to accompany them, and the old trapper volunteered his services, which were accepted.  We obtained fresh horses from Sweeting, and set off in gallant style, determined to shorten the distance by hard riding.  It was early on Wednesday morning when we arrived at Monterey; and M`Phail and Bradley proceeded to board all the ships in the bay, while Don Luis, Lacosse, and myself made inquiries about the town.  We soon learnt that Andreas Amjo and his party had been paying it a visit; and, moreover, one of the gang, who thought he had disguised himself so as not to be recognised, had been seized as a deserter from the garrison here.  The others were not interfered with, as there was no specific charge out against them.  Our robbery had, of course, not been heard of here.  Don Luis and myself, after having dispatched Lacosse to communicate this intelligence to Bradley and M`Phail, sought an interview with Colonel Mason, and, on informing him of the robbery and the circumstances attending it, received from him an order to see the soldier who was then under arrest.  By promises of not proceeding against him, for any share he might have had in the robbery, we induced him to confess the whole circumstances connected with it, and also to inform us of the route intended to be taken by El Capitan and the two others of the gang.  This, it seems, was along the great Spanish Trail to Santa Fe&acute;.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On rejoining our companions, we decided to continue here the remainder of the day, and to start off the next morning in pursuit.  We informed Colonel Mason of the circumstance, and he stated that he would have furnished us with a guard to accompany us, if he did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>At four o'clock the next morning we commenced the journey, each of us taking a stock of provisions sufficient to last for a fortnight; although we hoped, and fully expected, that we should be back to Monterey several days before that time had expired.  It was purely a question of hard riding.  Andreas and his party had started, as far as we could learn, three days in advance of us, and no doubt knew the track better than the old trapper who had undertaken to accompany us as guide.  He had never penetrated further than the foot of the Sierra, so that if we were compelled to cross the mountains we should have to seek for some Indians to guide us on our course.  By pressing our horses hard we succeeded in crossing the hills of the coast range that night, and encamped some slight way down the descent, in as sheltered a spot as we could manage to select.  The night was quite frosty, but we made up a blazing fire, and, well wrapped up in our serapes, slept till morning, without feeling much inconvenience from the cold.  Next day we struck the river of the lakes, and found it thickly hemmed in with timber along its whole course.  We soon found a fording place, and encamped at night a few miles from the east bank.  The following morning we fell in with some civilized Indians, who informed us, in answer to our inquiries, that a party of three whites passed along the trail the evening before last, and that they would have encamped not far from this spot.</P>
125.sgm:<P>These Indians, Don Luis informed me, had all of them been attached to the Californian Missions; but, since the downfall of these establishments, they had moved across the coast range, and had located themselves in the neighbourhood ot the Tule Lakes, subsisting chiefly on horseflesh.  To gratify their appetites, however, instead of giving chase to the number of wild horses--here called mustangs--that are scattered over the extensive prairies in the neighbourhood of the lakes, they adopt a much lazier method of supplying their larder.  This is, to make predatory excursions across the mountains, and to drive off a large herd of tame horses, belonging to some poor ranchero, at a time; these they slaughter, and subsist on as long as the flesh lasts, when they set out again on a similar expedition.  Sometimes they are pursued, and, if overtaken, butchered forthwith; but, in general, they manage to escape some little distance into the interior, where they are safe not to be followed.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We put spurs into our horses, and soon cleared the marshy ground intervening between us and the Fork, which we forded, and rode for several miles through a country thickly covered over with oak trees and intersected by numerous small rivulets.  Large herds of elk were frequently started, and during the whole day their shrill whistle was continually being heard.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We encamped to-night without having heard anything more of Andreas Armjo and his companions.  Several parties of Indians we met a few hours before sundown stated that they had not seen any white men along the trail.  I felt disposed, as far as I was myself concerned, to give over the pursuit, as my horse was already worn out by the journey; but my companions would not listen to it, and determined, at any rate, to see what would result from following it up briskly during the next day.  We had all noticed that there were no new signs of horses that had been shod passing along the trail, but Bradley was of opinion that the party would be mounted on unshod beasts, as very few of the native Californians had their horses shod, unless they were going a journey across a rough broken country.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Next day we fell in with several more parties of Indians, from whom we learnt that the men we were in pursuit of were full two days journey before us.  One party, who had seen them encamped the preceding evening more than forty miles ahead, told us that they had inquired of them where the trail turned off to Los Angelos.  As this town was at least five or six days' journey distant, and as the Sierra had to be crossed to reach it, we concluded among ourselves that it would be best for us to return to Monterey fortwith.  This decision was readily come to, as there was now no hope of overtaking the party, and every step we proceeded we were getting into a more hostile country.  In all probability, if we had pursued them to Los Angelos, we should have discovered that they had struck off on to the great Spanish Trail, as was their original intention, or else have found that they had been to Los Angelos and had taken their departure for some other place.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We therefore turned our horses' heads, and retraced our steps towards the coast in no merry mood.  We rode along, in fact, in sullen silence, only broken to mutter out our expressions of disappointment at the escape of those who had robbed us of the fruits of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>The Author and his friends part company--Their regrets at the separation--Friendship in the wilderness--Friendship at a supper--The Author finds himself alone--Monterey deserted--High wages--Officers' servants not to be obtained--A few arrivals from the mines--Stores shut, houses blocked up, and ships left defenceless.</P>
125.sgm:<P>WE had previously determined, on arriving at the sea-coast, to part company.  There was now no object for keeping together in a party, and our future plans were, of course, very undecided.  It was, therefore, clearly advisable that we should, at least for the present, separate.  This resolution was not come to without something like a pang--a pang which I sincerely felt, and which I believe was more or less experienced by us all.  We had lived for four months in constant companionship--we had undergone hardships and dangers together, and a friendship, more vivid than can well be imagined in civilized lands to have been the growth of so short a period, had sprung up betwixt us.  There had been a few petty bickerings between us, and some unjust suspicions on my part in respect to Bradley; but these were all forgotten.  Common sense, however, dictated the dissolution of our party.  When we reached Monterey, we went to an inferior sort of hotel, but the best open; and the following day we arranged the division of the proceeds arising from the sale of the gold that Bradley had left with Captain Sutter for consignment here.  The same night we had a supper, at which a melancholy species of joviality was in the ascendant, and the next day shook hands and parted.  Don Luis went back to his own pleasant home, and Bradley started for San Francisco.  As for the others, I hardly know what were their destinations.  All I know is, that on waking the next morning, I found that I was alone.</P>
125.sgm:<P>After breakfast I walked about the town.  Like San Francisco, Monterey has been nearly deserted.  Everybody has gone to the diggings, leaving business, ships, and stores, to take care of themselves.  The persons who remain are either persons carrying on profitable branches of commerce, the very existence of which requires the presence of principals upon the spot, and their clerks and servants, who have been tempted by high wages to stay.  To give an idea of the rate of remuneration paid, I may mention that salesmen and shopmen have been receiving at the rate of from two thousand three hundred to two thousand seven hundred dollars, with their board, per annum.  Mere boys get extravagant salaries in the absence of their seniors; and the lowest and most menial offices are paid for at a rate which only such a wonderful influx of gold would render credible.</P>
125.sgm:<P>But, even with the inducement of this high pay, it was found exceedingly difficult to retain the services of persons engaged in commercial and domestic capacities.  I learned from Colonel Mason that the officers in garrison at Monterey had not been able for two months to command the assistance of a servant.  Indeed, they had been actually obliged either to cook their own dinners, or to go without.  Every one had taken his turn in the culinary department, and even Colonel Mason had not been exempted.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The prevalence of sickness at the mines has sent a few people back here; but, with the commencement of the rainy season, I anticipate that there will be plenty of labour in the market, and that its value will become correspondingly depreciated.  In the meantime, the general aspect of the town is forlorn and deserted; stores are shut, houses blocked up, and in the harbour ships ride solitary and defenceless.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Letter from the Author to his Brother in England.</P>
125.sgm:<P>MONTEREY, <HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm: 11 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P>DEAR GEORGE,--I take advantage of the departure of a courier sent by Colonel Mason, the United States Governor of California, to Washington, with dispatches, to let you know what I have been about during the five months which have elapsed since I last wrote you.  Long before you receive this you will have heard in England of the extraordinary occurrences which have taken place out here.  My last letter, which I hope you received, told you of the failure of the emigration scheme <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>But to return to California.  I assure you it is hardly possible for any accounts of the gold mines, and of what I may call gold gravel and sand, to be exaggerated.  The El Dorado of the early voyagers to America has really been discovered; and what its consequences may be, not only upon this continent, but upon the world, wiser heads--heads more versed than mine is in monetary science--must tell.  There is much speculation here as to the effects which the late wonderful discovery will produce in the States and the old country.  Of course we expect to be inundated with emigrants, coming, I suppose, from every part of the world, and truly, for all I can tell, there will be gold enough for all.</P>
125.sgm:<P>And now, the first question you will ask me is, whether I have made my fortune?  I reply, my old bad luck has not forsaken me.  I always seem to come in for monkey's allowance--more kicks than halfpence.  Three months ago I thought my fortune was made, and that I might come home a South American nabob.  Nothing of the kind.  Here I was, almost on the spot, when the first news of the gold was received.  I have worked hard, and undergone some hardships, and, thanks to the now almost lawless state of this country, I have been deprived of the great mass of my savings, and must, when the dry season comes round again, set to work almost anew.  I have but fourteen hundred dollars' worth of the precious metal remaining, and, with the rate of prices which now universally prevails here, that will not keep me much over a couple of months.  My own case, though, is that of many others.  As the number of diggers and miners augmented, robberies and violence became frequent.  At first, when we arrived at the Mormon diggings, for example, everything was tranquil.  Every man worked for himself, without disturbing his neighbour.  Now the scene is widely changed indeed.  When I was last there, as you will see by my diary, things were bad enough; but now, according to the reports we hear, no man, known to be in possession of much gold, dare say, as he lays down his head at night, that he will ever rise from his pillow.  The fact is, that there is no executive government of any strength here to put an end to this state of things.  The country is almost a wilderness, whereof Indians are the principal inhabitants.  The small force Colonel Mason has here has been thinned very materially by desertions, and the fidelity of those that remain is, according to the opinion of their commanding officer, not to be over much depended on.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Of course, as you may expect, I am naturally much cast down at the turn which matters have taken--I mean as regards my own misfortune.  It is heart-breaking to be robbed by a set of villains of what you have worked so hard for, and have undergone so much to obtain.  I am in hopes, however, that my next gold campaign may be a more successful one.  I dare say there have been plenty of accounts of the doings in California in the newspapers.  As, however, not only you, but Anna and Charley, and my kind friends Mr. and Mrs.--and Miss--, and many others, will, I am sure, be glad to know something about my own personal adventures, I send you a rough diary of what I have seen and done.  I hardly know whether you will be able to make the whole of it out, for I have interlined it in many parts, and my writing never was of the most legible character.  You know I have always been in the habit, ever since I first went abroad, of jotting down some record of my movements, scanty enough, but still forming a memorial which it is pleasant to look back upon.  As, however, the gold affair is not only a great feature in a man's life, but in the history of our times, I made pretty full jottings of my adventures every few days; and since I returned here, I have spent several days in expanding them, and adding to them a few extra particulars which I thought would be of interest.  I don't know whether you will care to wade through such a bundle of information.  The MS. when I got it all together quite frightened me, and I hardly liked to ask <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>You can't conceive, my dear brother, how often I have wished you were out here with me.  Your engineering talents would have been invaluable in inventing some method of procuring the gold dust, or rather of separating it from the soil, which would have been much more effectual than the rude way in which we went to work.  At the same time, I am now thankful you are at home.  It is easy to get gold here, but it is very difficult to keep it.  In fact, after all, the affair is a hazardous lottery; and those who may succeed in getting off with their pounds of gold dust and flakes to Europe, or to the States, will be the few who will win the great prizes.</P>
125.sgm:<P>In my diary, you will find a very detailed account of our various operations and successes.  The first place we made for was on the south bank of the Americans' River, and when the Lower or Mormon diggings, as they are called, got over-crowded, we marched off further up the river, which soon divides itself into two branches, forming the North and South Forks.  We reached the saw-mill, where the discovery was first made, and worked there some time; but finding inconveniences in the way, and hearing of another station, we started again.  This new place is called Weber's Creek, and sometimes Rock Creek, and is a small stream running into the North Fork of the river.  We being upon the southern bank of the South Fork, and Weber's Creek running into the North Fork at the north bank, we had to ford both branches of the stream to get to our new station, which we found very productive; the gold being more plentiful than in the lower diggings, and discovered in short veins, and in lumps amongst the rocks of the neighbouring ravines.  We should probably not have gone any further than Weber's Creek--I sincerely wish we had not--but a good deal of fever and ague got about.  The sun was terribly hot in those deep valleys all day, and the nights chill and damp.  After some weeks here, then, we got restless, and set off once more, directing our course three days' journey to the north, to a place upon the Bear River, where we were led to expect not only plenty of gold, but a better temperature and a healtheir climate.  It was after we reached Bear Valley that our reverses began.  It is utterly a savage country, where a strong arm and the rifle form the only code of laws.  Up to our appearance on Bear River, we had got on with very few adventures, and considerable profit; but now came misfortunes.  I shall not trouble you with them here: they are written at full length in the batch of MS. I send.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I hardly know what to do with myself here until the dry season comes round.  The rains have not begun yet, but they may be expected from day to day, and then I suppose we shall have a vast influx from the interior, as it is quite impossible to camp out in the rainy season.  Of course the price of any article of food and clothing will be excessive, and I almost think that the best thing for me to do, when the seamen come down, and the ships are manned again, will be to try and get a passage to the Sandwich Islands, which are not very far off, and in which it is probable that living is reasonable.  I could easily get back to the mainland in time for the next dry season.  What changes may take place by that time, however, I know not.  The States may claim the land, and the gold within it, and send an army to enforce their rights.  If so, a terrible scene of tumult and disorder may be expected.  All the lawless adventurers who are scattered about this part of the continent are flocking down to the gold regions, so are the Indians; and I feel pretty sure that Jonathan will have a tough battle to fight if he wants to keep all the bullion to himself.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I suppose that in England the people will be pricking up their ears when they learn what we are doing here, and that we shall have plenty of emigrants from home.  I hardly like to advise upon the subject here; there certainly is a wonderful amount of gold.  What the chances of obtaining it and getting it taken home may be next season, I know not.  At all events, the pursuit will be difficult in the extreme, and tolerably dangerous also.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Yours affectionately,<HSEP>J. TYRWHITT BROOKS.</P>
125.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
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125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA;</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, AND GOLD MINES.</P>
125.sgm:<P>WITH ROUTES, AND ADVICE TO INTENDING EMIGRANTS.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"All which I saw, and part of which I was."<LB></HI>
125.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Dryden</HI>
125.sgm:.<LB>BY EDWIN BRYANT,<LB>LATE ALCALDE OF ST. FRANCISCO.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Geographical sketch of California--Its political and social institutions--Colorado River--Valley and river of San Joaquin--Former government--Presidios--Missions--Ports and commerce.</P>
125.sgm:<P>FOR the general information of the reader, it will be proper to give a brief geographical sketch of California, and some account of its political and social institutions, as they have heretofore existed.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The district of country known geographically as Upper California is bounded on the north by Oregon, the forty-second degree of north latitude being the boundary line between the two territories; on the east by the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra de los Mimbres, a continuation of the same range; on the south by Sonora and Old or Lower California, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean.  Its extent from north to south is about 700 miles, and from east to west from 600 to 800 miles, with an area of about 400,000 square miles.  A small portion only of this extensive territory is fertile or inhabitable by civilized man, and this portion consists chiefly in the strip of country along the Pacific Ocean, about 700 miles in length, and from 100 to 150 in breadth, bounded on the east by the Sierra Nevada, and on the west by the Pacific.  In speaking of Upper California this strip of country is what is generally referred to.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The largest river of Upper California is the Colorado or Red, which has a course of about 1000 miles, and empties into the Gulf of California in latitude about 32&deg; north.  But little is known of the region through which this stream flows.  The report of trappers, however, is that the river is <HI REND="italics">canoned</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"This noble valley is the first undoubtedly in California, and one of the most magnificent in the world.  It is about 500 miles long, with an average width of about fifty miles.  It is bounded on the east by the great Snowy Mountains, and on the west by the low range, which in many places dwindles into insignificant hills, and has its northern terminus at the Strait of Carquines, on the Bay of San Francisco, and its southern near the Colorado River.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The river of San Joaquin flows through the middle of the valley for about half of its extent, and thence diverges towards the eastern mountain, in which it has its source.  About sixty miles further south is the northern end of the Buena Vista Lake, which is about one hundred miles long, and from ten to twenty wide.  Still farther south, and near the western side of the valley, is another and much smaller lake.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The great lake receives about a dozen tributaries on its eastern side, which all rise in the great range of the Snowy Mountains.  Some of these streams flow through broad and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"On ascending the stream we first meet with the Stanislaus, a clear rapid mountain stream, some forty or fifty yards wide, with a considerable depth of water in its lower portion.  The Mormons have commenced a settlement, called New Hope, and built some two or three houses near the mouth.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"There are considerable bodies of fertile land along the river, and the higher plains afford good pasturage.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Ten miles higher up is the river of the Tawalomes; it is about the size of the Stanislaus, which it greatly resembles, except that the soil is somewhat better, and that it particularly abounds with salmon.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Some thirty miles farther comes in the Merced, much the largest of the tributaries of the San Joaquin.  The lands along and between the tributaries of the San Joaquin and the lake of Buena Vista form a fine pastoral region, with a good proportion of arable land, and a very inviting field for emigration.  The whole of this region has been but imperfectly explored; enough, however, is known to make it certain that it is one of the most desirable regions on the continent.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"In the valleys of the rivers which come down from the great Snowy Mountains are vast bodies of pine, and red-wood, or cedar timber, and the streams afford water power to any desirable amount.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The whole country east of the San Joaquin, and the water communication which connects it with the lakes, is considered, by the best judges, to be particularly adapted to the culture of the vine, which must necessarily become one of the principal agricultural resources of California."</P>
125.sgm:<P>The Salinas River empties into the Pacific, about twelve miles above Monterey.  Bear River empties into the Great Salt Lake.  The other streams of California are all small.  In addition to the Great Salt Lake and the Utah Lake there are numerous small lakes in the Sierra Nevada.  The San Joaquin is connected with Tule Lake, or Lake Buena Vista, a sheet of water about eighty miles in length and fifteen in breadth.  A lake, not laid down in any map, and known as the <HI REND="italics">Laguna</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The principal mountains west of the eastern boundary of California (the Rocky Mountains) are the Bear River, Wahsatch, Utah, the Sierra Nevada, and the Coast range.  The Wahsatch Mountains form the eastern rim of the "great interior basin."  There are numerous ranges in this desert basin, all of which run north and south, and are separated from each other by spacious and barren valleys and plains.  The Sierra Nevada range is of greater elevation than the Rocky Mountains.  The summits of the most elevated peaks are covered with perpetual snow.  This and the coast range run nearly parallel with the shore of the Pacific.  The first is from 100 to 200 miles from the Pacific, and the last from forty to sixty miles.  The valley between them is the most fertile portion of California.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Upper California was discovered in 1548, by Cabrillo, a Spanish navigator.  In 1578, the northern portion of it was visited by Sir Francis Drake, who called it New Albion.  It was first colonized by the Spaniards, in 1768, and formed a province of Mexico until after the revolution in that country.  There have been numerous revolutions and civil wars in California within the last twenty years; but up to the conquest of the country by the United States in 1846, Mexican authority has generally been exercised over it.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The following description of the political and social condition of Upper California in 1822 is extracted and translated from a Spanish writer of that date.  I have thought that the extract would not be uninteresting:--</P>
125.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Government</HI>
125.sgm:.--Upper California, on account of its small population, not being able to become a state of the great Mexican republic, takes the character of territory, the government of which is under the charge of a commandant-general, who exercises the charge of a superior political chief, whose attributes depend entirely upon the president of the republic and the general congress.  But, to amplify the legislation of its centre, it has a deputation made up of seven vocals, the half of these individuals being removed every two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Presidios</HI>
125.sgm:.--The necessity of protecting the apostolic predication was the obligatory reason for forming the presidios, which were established according to circumstances.  That of San Diego was the first; Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco were built afterwards.  The form of all of them is nearly the same, and this is a square, containing about two hundred yards in each front, formed of a weak wall made of mud-bricks.  Its height may be four yards in the interior of the square, and built on to the same wall.  In its entire circumference are a chapel, storehouses, and houses for the commandant, officers, and troops, having at the entrance of the presidio quarters for a <HI REND="italics">corps-de-garde</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"These buildings in the presidios, at the first idea, appear to have been sufficient, the only object having been for a defence against a surprise from the gentiles, or wild Indians in the immediate vicinity.  But this cause having ceased, I believe they ought to be demolished, as they are daily threatening a complete ruin, and, from the very limited spaces of habitation, must be very incommodious to those who inhabit them.  As to the exterior of the presidios, several private individuals have built some very decent houses, and, having evinced great emulation in this branch of business, I have no doubt but in a short time we shall see very considerable towns in California.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"At the distance of one, or at the most two miles from the presidio, and near to the anchoring-ground, is a fort, which has a few pieces of artillery of small calibre.  The situation of most of them is very advantageous for the defence of the port, though the form of the walls, esplanades, and other imperfections which may be seen, make them very insignificant.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The battalion of each presidio is made up of eighty or more horse soldiers, called <HI REND="italics">cuera</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Missions</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"The edifices in some of those missions are more extensive than in others, but in form they are all nearly equal.  They are all fabricated of mud-bricks, and the divisions are according to necessity.  In all of them may be found commodious habitations for the ministers, storehouses to keep their goods in, proportional granaries, offices for soap-makers, weavers, blacksmiths, and large parterres, and horse and cattle pens, independent apartments for Indian youths of each sex, and all such offices as were necessary at the time of its institution.  Contiguous to and communicating with the former is a church, forming a part of the edifices of each mission; they are all very proportionable, and are adorned with profusion.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The Indians reside about two hundred yards distant from the above-mentioned edifice.  This place is called the rancheria.  Most of the missions are made up of very reduced quarters, built with mud-bricks, forming streets, while in others the Indians have been allowed to follow their primitive customs; their dwellings being a sort of huts, in a conical shape, which at the most do not exceed four yards in diameter, and the top of the cone may be elevated three yards.  They are built of rough sticks, covered with bulrushes or grass, in such a manner as to completely protect the inhabitants from all the inclemencies of the weather.  In my opinion, these rancherias are the most adequate to the natural uncleanliness of the Indians, as the families often renew the, burning the old ones, and immediately building others with the greatest facility.  Opposite the rancherias, and near to the mission, is to be found a small garrison, with proportionate rooms, for a corporal and five soldiers with their families.  This small garrison is quite sufficient to prevent any attempt of the Indians from taking effect, there having been some examples made, which causes the Indians to respect this small force.  One of these pickets in a mission has a double object; besides keeping the Indians in subjection, they run post with a monthly correspondence, or with any extraordinaries that may be necessary for government.</P>
125.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"All the missions in this California are under the charge of religious men of the order of San Francisco.  At the present time their number is twenty-seven, most of them of an advanced age.  Each mission has one of these fathers for its administrator, and he holds absolute authority.  The tilling of the ground, the gathering of the harvest, the slaughtering of cattle, the weaving, and everything that concerns the mission, is under the direction of the fathers, without any other person interfering in any way whatever, so that, if any one mission has the good fortune to be superintended by an industrious and discreet padre, the Indians disfrute in abundance all the real necessaries of life; at the same time the nakedness and misery of any one mission are a palpable proof of the inactivity of its director.  The missions extend their possessions from one extremity of the territory to the other, and have made the limits of one mission from those of another.  Though they do not require all this land for their agriculture and the maintenance of their stock, they have appropriated the whole; always strongly opposing any individual who may wish to settle himself or his family on any piece of land between them.  But it is to be hoped that the new system of illustration, and the necessity of augmenting private property, and the people of reason, will cause the government to take such adequate measures as will conciliate the interests of all.  Amongst all the missions there are from twenty-one to twenty-two thousand Catholic Indians; but each mission has not an equal or a proportionate part in its congregation.  Some have three or four thousand, whilst others have scarcely four hundred; and at this difference may be computed the riches of the missions in proportion.  Besides the number of Indians already spoken of, each mission has a considerable number of gentiles, who live chiefly on farms annexed to the missions.  The number of these is undetermined.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The Indians are naturally filthy and careless, and their understanding is very limited.  In the small arts they are not deficient in ideas of imitation, but they never will be inventors.  Their true character is that of being revengeful and timid, consequently they are very much addicted to treachery.  They have no knowledge of benefits received, and ingratitude is common amongst them.  The education they receive in their infancy is not the proper one to develope their reason, and, if it were, I do not believe them capable of any good impression.  All these Indians, whether from the continual use of the sweat-house, or from their filthiness, or the little ventilation in their habitations, are weak and unvigorous; spasms and rheumatics, to which they are so much subject, are the consequences of their customs.  But what most injures them, and prevents propagation, is the venereal disease, which most of them have very strongly, clearly proving that their humours are analogous to receiving the impressions of this contagion.  From this reason may be deduced the enormous differences between the births and deaths, which, without doubt, is one-tenth per year in favour of the latter; but the missionaries do all in their power to prevent this, with respect to the catechumens situated near them.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The general productions of the missions are, the breed of the larger class of cattle, and sheep, horses, wheat, maize or Indian corn, beans, peas, and other vegetables; though the productions of the missions situated more to the southward are more extensive, these producing the grape and olive in abundance.  Of all these articles of production, the most lucrative is the large cattle, their hides and tallow affording an active commerce with foreign vessels on this coast.  This being the only means the inhabitants, missionaries, or private individuals have of supplying their actual necessities, for this reason they give this branch all the impulse they possibly can, and on it generally place all their attention.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"It is now six years since they began to gather in hides and tallow for commerce.  Formerly they merely took care of as many or as much as they required for their own private use, and the rest was thrown away as useless; but at this time the actual number of hides sold annually on board of foreign vessels amounts to thirty or forty thousand, and about the same amount of arrobas (twenty-five pounds) of tallow; and, in pursuing their present method, there is not doubt but in three or four years the amount of the exportation of each of these articles will be doubled.  Flax, linen, wine, olive-oil, grain, and other agricultural productions, would be very extensive if there were stimulants to excite industry; but, this not being the case, there is just grain enough sown and reaped for the consumption of the inhabitant in the territory.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The towns contained in this district are three; the most populous being that of Angeles, which has about twelve hundred souls; that of St. Joseph's of Guadaloupe may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"The inhabitants of the towns are white, and, to distinguish them from the Indians, are vulgarly called <HI REND="italics">people of reason</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"The whites are in general robust, healthy, and well made.  Some of them are occupied in breeding and raising cattle, and cultivating small quantities of wheat and beans; but for want of sufficient land, for which they cannot obtain a rightful ownership, their labours are very limited.  Others dedicate themselves to the service of arms.  All the presidial companies are composed of the natives of the country, but the most of them are entirely indolent, it being very rare for any individual to strive to augment his fortune.  Dancing, horse-riding, and gambling occupy all their time.  The arts are entirely unknown, and I am doubtful if there is one individual who exercises any trade; very few who understand the first rudiments of letters, and the other sciences are unknown amongst them.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The fecundity of the <HI REND="italics">people of reason</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Ports and Commerce</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"The only motive that induces foreign vessels to visit this coast is for the hides and tallow which they barter for in the territory.  It is well known, that at any of these parts there is no possibility of realizing any money, for here it does not circulate.  The goods imported by foreign vessels are intended to facilitate the purchase of the aforesaid articles, well knowing that the missions have no interest in money, but rather such goods as are necessary for the Indians, so that several persons who have brought goods to sell for nothing but money have not been able to sell them.  It will appear very extraordinary that money should not be appreciated in a country where its value is so well known; but the reason may be easily perceived by attending to the circumstances of the territory.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The quantity of hides gathered yearly is about thirty or forty thousand; and the arrobas of tallow, with very little difference, will be about the same.  Averaging the price of each article at two dollars, we shall see that the intrinsic value in annual circulation in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Leave New Helvetia for San Francisco--Cosc&cedil;umne River--Micke&acute;lemes River--Ford of the San Joaquin--Extensive plain--Tule marshes--Large droves of wild horses and elk--Arrive at Dr. Marsh's--Vineyard--Californian grape--Californian wine--Aguardie&acute;nte--Mormon settlements on the San Joaquin--Californian beef--Cattle--Grasses of California--Horses--Breakfast--Leave Dr. Marsh's--Arrive at Mr. Livermore's--Comforts of his dwelling--Large herds of cattle--Sheep--Swine--Californian senora--Slaughtering of a bullock--Fossil oyster-shells--Skeleton of a whale on a high mountain--Arrive at mission of San Jose&acute;--Ruinous and desolate appearance of the mission--Pedlars--Landlady--Filth--Gardens of the mission--Fruit orchards--Empty warehouses and workshops--Foul lodgings.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm: 13 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Our Indian servant, or vaquero, feigned sickness this morning, and we discharged him.  As soon as he obtained his discharge, he was entirely relieved from the excruciating agonies under which he had affected to be suffering for several hours.  Eating his breakfast, and mounting his horse, he galloped off in the direction of the fort.  We overtook this afternoon an English sailor, named Jack, who was travelling towards Monterey; and we employed him as cook and hostler for the remainder of the journey.</P>
125.sgm:<P>A variety of autumnal flowers, generally of a brilliant yellow, are in bloom along the beautiful and romantic banks of the rivulet.  Distance 25 miles.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm: 15.--Our horses were frightened last night by bears, and this morning, with the exception of those which were picketed, had strayed so far that we did not recover them until ten o'clock.  Our route has continued over a flat plain, generally covered with luxuriant grass, wild oats, and a variety of sparkling flowers.  The soil is composed of a rich argillaceous loam.  Large tracts of the land are evidently subject to annual inundations.  About noon we reached a small lake surrounded by <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
125.sgm:.  There being no trail for our guidance, we experienced some difficulty in shaping our course so as to strike the San Joaquin River at the usual fording place.  Our man Jack, by some neglect or mistake of his own, lost sight of us, and we were compelled to proceed without him.  This afternoon we saw several large droves of antelope and deer.  Game of all kinds appears to be very abundant in this rich valley.  Passing through large tracts of <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
125.sgm:, we reached the San Joaquin River at dark, and encamped on the eastern bank.  Here we immediately made large fires, and discharged pistols as signals <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The ford of the San Joaquin is about forty or fifty miles from its mouth.  At this season the water is at its lowest stage.  The stream at the ford is probably one hundred yards in breadth, and our animals crossed it without much difficulty, the water reaching about midway of their bodies.  Oak and small willows are the principal growth of wood skirting the river.  Soon after we crossed the San Joaquin this morning we met two men, couriers, bearing despatches from Commodore Stockton, the governor and commander-in-chief in California, to Sutter's Fort.  Entering upon the broad plain, we passed, in about three miles, a small lake, the water of which was so much impregnated with alkali as to be undrinkable.  The grass is brown and crisp, but the seed upon it is evidence that it had fully matured before the drought affected it.  The plain is furrowed with numerous deep trails, made by the droves of wild horses, elk, deer, and antelope, which roam over and graze upon it.  The hunting sportsman can here enjoy his favourite pleasure to its fullest extent.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Having determined to deviate from our direct course, in order to visit the rancho of Dr. Marsh, we parted from Messrs. M`Kee and Pickett about noon.  We passed during the afternoon several <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
125.sgm:<P>While pursuing our journey we frequently saw large droves of wild horses and elk grazing quietly upon the plain.  No spectacle of moving life can present a more animated and beautiful appearance than a herd of wild horses.  They were divided into droves of some one or two hundred.  When they noticed us, attracted by curiosity to discover what we were, they would start and run almost with the fleetness of the wind in the direction towards us.  But, arriving within a distance of two hundred yards, they would suddenly halt, and after bowing their necks into graceful curves, and looking steadily at us a few moments, with loud snortings they would wheel about and bound away with the same lighning speed.  These evolutions they would repeat several times, until, having satisfied their curiosity, they would bid us a final adieu, and disappear behind the undulations of the plain.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The herds of elk were much more numerous.  Some of them numbered at least two thousand, and with their immense antlers presented, when running, a very singular and picturesque appearance.  We approached some of these herds within fifty yards before they took the alarm.  Beef in California is so abundant, and of so fine a quality, that game is but little hunted, and not much prized.  Hence the elk, deer, and even antelope are comparatively very tame, and rarely run from the traveller, unless he rides very near them.  Some of these elk are as large as a medium sized Mexican mule.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We arrived at the rancho of Dr. Marsh about 5 o'clock P.M., greatly fatigued with the day's ride.  The residence of Dr. M. is romantically situated, near the foot of one of the most elevated mountains in the range separating the valley of the San Joaquin from the plain surrounding the Bay of San Francisco.  It is called "Mount Diablo," and may be seen in clear weather a great distance.  The dwelling of Dr. M. is a small one-story house, rudely constructed of adobes, and divided into two or three apartments.  The flooring is of earth, like the walls.  A table or two, and some benches and a bed, are all the furniture it contains.  Such are the privations to which those who settle in new countries must submit.  Dr. M. is a native of New England, a graduate of Harvard University, and a gentleman of fine natural abilities and extensive scientific and literary acquirements.  He emigrated to California some seven or eight years since, after having travelled through most of the Mexican States.  He speaks the Spanish language fluently and correctly, and his accurate knowledge of Mexican institutions, laws, and customs was fully displayed in his conversation in regard to them.  He obtained the grant of land upon which he now resides, some ten or twelve miles square, four or five years ago; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>I noticed near the house a vegetable garden, with the usual variety of vegetables.  In another inclosure was the commencement of an extensive vineyard, the fruit of which (now ripe) exceeds in delicacy of flavour any grapes which I have ever tasted.  This grape is not indigenous, but was introduced by the <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
125.sgm:, when they first established themselves in the country.  The soil and climate of California have probably improved it.  Many of the clusters are eight and ten inches in length, and weigh several pounds.  The fruit is of medium size, and in colour a dark purple.  The rind is very thin, and when broken the pulp dissolves in the mouth immediately.  Although Dr. M. has just commenced his vineyard, he has made several casks of wine this year, which is now in a state of fermentation.  I tasted here, for the first time, <HI REND="italics">aguardie&acute;nte</HI>
125.sgm:, or brandy distilled from the Californian grape.  Its flavour is not unpleasant, and age, I do not doubt, would render it equal to the brandies of France.  Large quantities of wine and <HI REND="italics">aguardie&acute;nte</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Some time in July, a vessel arrived at San Francisco from New York, which had been chartered and freighted principally by a party of Mormon emigrants, numbering between two and three hundred, women and children included.  These Mormons are about making a settlement for agricultural purposes on the San Joaquin River, above the rancho of Dr. Marsh.  Two of the women and one of the men are now here, waiting for the return of the main party, which has gone up the river to explore and select a suitable site for the settlement.  The women are young, neatly dressed, and one of them may be called good looking.  Captain Gant, formerly of the U.S. army, in very bad health, is also residing here.  He has crossed the Rocky Mountains eight times, and, in various trapping excursions, has explored nearly every river between the settlements of the United States and the Pacific Ocean.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The house of Dr. Marsh being fully occupied, we made our beds in a shed, a short distance from it.  Suspended from one of the poles forming the frame of this shed was a portion of the carcass of a recently slaughtered beef.  The meat was very fat, the muscular portions of it presenting that marbled appearance, produced by a mixture of the fat and lean, so agreeable to the sight and palate of the epicure.  The horned cattle of California, which I have thus far seen, are the largest and the handsomest in shape which I ever saw.  There is certainly no breed in the United States equalling them in size.  They, as well as the horses, subsist entirely on the indigenous grasses, at all seasons of the year; and such are the nutritious qualities of the herbage, that the former are always in condition for slaughtering, and the latter have as much flesh upon them as is desirable, unless (which is often the case) they are kept up at hard work and denied the privilege of eating, or are broken down by hard riding.  The varieties of grass are very numerous, and nearly all of them are heavily seeded when ripe, and are equal, if not superior, as food for animals, to corn and oats.  The horses are not as large as the breeds of the United States, but in point of symmetrical proportions and in capacity for endurance they are fully equal to our best breeds.  The distance we have travelled to-day I estimate at thirty-five miles.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm: 17.--The temperature of the mornings is most agreeable, and every other phenomenon accompanying it is correspondingly delightful to the senses.  Our breakfast consisted of warm bread, made of unbolted flour, stewed beef, seasoned with <HI REND="italics">chile colorado</HI>
125.sgm:, a species of red pepper, and <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
125.sgm:, a dark-coloured bean, with coffee.  After breakfast I walked with Dr. Marsh to the summit of a conical hill, about a mile distant from his house, from which the view of the plain on the north, south, and east, and the more broken and mountainous country on the west, is very extensive and picturesque.  The hills and the plain are ornamented with the evergreen oak, sometimes in clumps or groves, at others standing solitary.  On the summits, and in the gorges of the mountains, the cedar, pine, and fir display their tall symmetrical shapes; and the San Joaquin, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:at a distance of about ten miles, is belted by a dense forest of oak, sycamore, and smaller timber and shrubbery.  The herds of cattle are scattered over the plain,--some of them grazing upon the brown but nutritious grass; others sheltering themselves from the sun under the wide-spreading branches of the oaks.  The <HI REND="italics">tout ensemble</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Leaving Dr. Marsh's about three o'clock P.M., we travelled fifteen miles, over a rolling and well-watered country, covered generally with wild oats, and arrived at the residence of Mr. Robert Livermore just before dark.  We were most kindly and hospitably received, and entertained by Mr. L. and his interesting family.  After our mules and baggage had been cared for, we were introduced to the principal room in the house, which consisted of a number of small adobe buildings, erected apparently at different times, and connected together.  Here we found chairs, and, for the first time in California, saw a side-board set out with glass tumblers and chinaware.  A decanter of <HI REND="italics">aguardie&acute;nte</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The table was soon set out, and covered with a linen cloth of snowy whiteness, upon which were placed dishes of stewed beef, seasoned with <HI REND="italics">chile colorado, frijoles</HI>
125.sgm:, and a plentiful supply of <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Mr. Livermore has been a resident of California nearly thirty years, and, having married into one of the wealthy families of the country, is the proprietor of some of the best lands for tillage and grazing.  An <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:, or small rivulet fed by springs, runs through his rancho, in such a course that, if expedient, he could, without much expense, irrigate one or two thousand acres.  Irrigation in this part of California, however, seems to be entirely unnecessary for the production of wheat or any of the small grains.  To produce maize, potatoes, and garden vegetables, irrigation is indispensable.  Mr. Livermore has on his rancho about 3500 head of cattle.  His horses, during the late disturbances, have nearly all been driven off or stolen by the Indians.  I saw in his corral a flock of sheep numbering several hundred.  They are of good size, and the mutton is said to be of an excellent quality, but the wool is coarse.  It is, however, well adapted to the only manufacture of wool that is carried on in the country,--coarse blankets and <HI REND="italics">sera&acute;pes</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The Senora L. is the first Hispano-American lady I have seen since arriving in the country.  She was dressed in a white cambric robe, loosely banded round the waist, and without ornament of any kind, except several rings on her small delicate fingers.  Her complexion is that of a dark brunette, but lighter and more clear than the skin of most Californian women.  The dark lustrous eye, the long black and glossy hair, the natural ease, grace, and vivacity of manners and conversation, characteristic of Spanish ladies, were fully displayed by her from the moment of our introduction.  The children, especially two or three little <HI REND="italics">senoritas</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Retiring to bed about ten o'clock, I enjoyed, the first time for four months, the luxury of clean sheets, with a mattress and a soft pillow.  My enjoyment, however, was not unmixed with regret, for I noticed that several members of the family, to accommodate us with lodgings in the house, slept in the piazza outside.  To have objected to sleeping in the house, however, would have been considered discourteous and offensive.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm: 18.--Early this morning a bullock was brought up and slaughtered in front of the house.  The process of slaughtering a beef is as follows; <HI REND="italics">a vaquero</HI>
125.sgm:, mounted on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:a trained horse, and provided with a lasso, proceeds to the place where the herd is grazing.  Selecting an animal, he soon secures it by throwing the noose of the lasso over the horns, and fastening the other end around the pommel of the saddle.  During the first struggles of the animal for liberty, which usually are very violent, the vaquero sits firmly in his seat, and keeps his horse in such a position that the fury and strength of the beast are wasted without producing any other result than his own exhaustion.  The animal, soon ascertaining that he cannot release himself from the rope, submits to be pulled along to the place of execution.  Arriving here, the vaquero winds the lasso round the legs of the doomed beast, and throws him to the ground, where he lies perfectly helpless and motionless.  Dismounting from his horse, he then takes from his leggin the butcher-knife that he always carries with him, and sticks the animal in the throat.  He soon bleeds to death, when, in an incredibly short space of time for such a performance, the carcass is flayed and quartered, and the meat is either roasting before the fire or simmering in the stew-pan.  The <HI REND="italics">lassoing</HI>
125.sgm:<P>A <HI REND="italics">carretada</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Leaving Mr. Livermore's about nine o'clock A.M., we travelled three or four miles over a level plain, upon which immense herds of cattle were grazing.  When we approached, they fled from us with as much alarm as herds of deer and elk.  From this plain we entered a hilly country, covered to the summits of the elevations with wild oats and tufts or bunches of a species of grass, which remains green through the whole season.  Cattle were scattered through these hills, and more sumptuous grazing they could not desire.  Small streams of water, fed by springs, flow through the hollows and ravines, which, as well as the hill-sides, are timbered with the evergreen oak and a variety of smaller trees.  About two o'clock, p.m., we crossed an <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We soon entered through a narrow street the mission of San Jose&acute;, or St. Joseph.  Passing the squares of one-story adobe buildings once inhabited by thousands of busy Indians, but now deserted, roofless, and crumbling into ruins, we reached the plaza in front of the church, and the massive two story edifices occupied by the <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
125.sgm: during the flourishing epoch of the establishment.  These were in good repair; but the doors and windows, with the exception of one, were closed, and nothing of moving life was visible except a donkey or two, standing near a fountain which gushed its waters into a capacious stone trough.  Dismounting from our mules, we entered the open door, and here we found two Frenchmen dressed in sailor costume, with a quantity of coarse shirts, pantaloons, stockings, and other small articles, together with <HI REND="italics">aguardie&acute;nte</HI>
125.sgm:, which they designed retailing to such of the natives in the vicinity as chose to become their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Having determined to remain here the residue of the day and the night, we inquired of the Frenchmen if there was any family in the place that could furnish us with food.  They directed us to a house on the opposite side of the plaza, to which we immediately repaired.  The senora, a dark-skinned and rather shrivelled and filthy specimen of the fair sex, but with a black, sparkling, and intelligent eye, met us at the door of the miserable hovel, and invited us in.  In one corner of this wretched and foul abode was a pile of raw hides, and in another a heap of wheat.  The only furniture it contained were two small benches, or stools, one of which, being higher than the other, appeared to have been constructed for a table.  We informed the senora that we were travellers, and wished refreshment and lodgings for the night.  " <HI REND="italics">Esta bueno, senores, esta bueno</HI>
125.sgm:," was her reply; and she immediately left us, and, opening the door of the kitchen, commenced the preparation of our dinner.  The interior of the kitchen, of which I had a good view through the door, was more revolting in its filthiness than the room in which we were seated.  In a short time, so industrious was our hostess, our dinner, consisting of two plates of jerked beef, stewed, and seasoned with <HI REND="italics">chile colorado</HI>
125.sgm:, a plate of <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
125.sgm:, and a bowl of coffee, was set out upon the most elevated stool.  There were no knives, forks, or spoons, on the table.  Our amiable land lady apologized for this deficiency of table furniture, saying that she was " <HI REND="italics">muy pobre</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Belonging to the mission are two gardens, inclosed by high adobe walls.  After dinner we visited one of these.  The area of the inclosure contains fifteen or twenty acres of ground, the whole of which was planted with fruit trees and grape-vines.  There are about six hundred pear trees, and a large number of apple and peach trees, all bearing fruit in great abundance and in full perfection.  The quality of the pears is excellent, but the apples and peaches are indifferent.  The grapes have been gathered, as I suppose, for I saw none upon the vines, which appeared healthy and vigorous.  The gardens are irrigated with very little trouble, from large springs which flow from the hills a short distance above them.  Numerous aqueducts, formerly conveying and distributing water over an extensive tract of land surrounding the mission, are still visible, but as the land is not now cultivated, they at present contain no water.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The mission buildings cover fifty acres of ground, perhaps more, and are all constructed of adobes with tile roofs.  Those houses or barracks which were occupied by the Indian families are built in compact squares, one story in height.  They are generally partitioned into two rooms, one fronting on the street, the other upon a court or corral in the rear.  The main buildings of the mission are two stories in height, with wide corridors in front and rear.  The walls are massive, and, if protected from the winter rains, will stand for ages.  But if exposed to the storms by the decay of the projecting roofs, or by leaks in the main roof, they will soon crumble, or sink into shapeless heaps of mud.  I passed through extensive warehouses and immense rooms, once occupied for the manufacture of woollen blankets and other articles, with the rude machinery still standing in them, but unemployed.  Filth and desolation have taken the place of cleanliness and busy life.  The granary was very capacious, and its dimensions were an evidence of the exuberant fertility of the soil, when properly cultivated under the superintendence of the <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Returning from our rambles about the mission, we found that our landlady had been reinforced by an elderly woman, whom she introduced as " <HI REND="italics">mi madre</HI>
125.sgm:," and two or three Indian <HI REND="italics">muchachas</HI>
125.sgm:, or girls, clad in a costume not differing much from that of our mother Eve.  The latter were obese in their figures, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Supper being prepared and discussed, our landlady informed us that she had a husband, who was absent, but would return in the course of the night, and, if he found strange men in the house, he would be much offended with her.  She had therefore directed her <HI REND="italics">muchachas</HI>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Armies of fleas--Leave the mission--Clover--Wild mustard--A carreta--Family travelling--Arrive at Pueblo de San Jose&acute;--Capt. Fisher--Description of the Pueblo--The embarcadero--Beautiful and fertile valley of the Pueblo--Absence of architectural taste in California--Town squirrels--Fruit garden--Grapes--Tropical fruits--Gaming-rooms--Contrast between Californian and American gamesters--Leave San Jose&acute;--Beautiful avenue--Mission of Santa Clara--Rich but neglected lands--Effects of a bad government--A senora on the road-side--Kindness of Californian women--Fast riding--Cruel treatment of horses--Arrive at the mission of San Francisco--A poor but hospitable family--Arrive at the town of San Francisco--W.  A Leidesdorff, Esq., American vice-consul--First view of the bay of San Francisco--Muchachos and Muchachas--Capt. Montgomery--U. S. sloop-of-war, Portsmouth--Town of San Francisco; its situation, appearance, population--Commerce of California--Extortion of the government and traders.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm:<P>While our man Jack was saddling and packing the mules, they gathered around us to the number of a dozen or more, and were desirous of trading their horses for articles of clothing; articles which many of them appeared to stand greatly in need of, but which we had not to part from.  Their pertinacity exceeded the bounds of civility, as I thought; but I was not in a good humour, for the fleas, bugs, and other vermin, which infested our miserable lodgings, had caused me a sleepless night, by goring my body until the blood oozed from the skin in countless places.  These ruinous missions are prolific generators, and the nurseries of vermin of all kinds, as the hapless traveller who tarries in them a few hours will learn to his sorrow.  When these bloodthirsty assailants once make a lodgment in the clothing or bedding of the unfortunate victim of their attacks, such are their courage and perseverance, that they never capitulate.  "Blood or death" is their motto;--the war against them, to be successful, must be a war of extermination.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Poor as our hostess was, she nevertheless was reluctant to receive any compensation for her hospitality.  We, however, insisted upon her receiving a dollar from each of us ( <HI REND="italics">dos pesos</HI>
125.sgm: ), which she finally accepted; and after shaking us cordially by the hand she bade us an affectionate <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
125.sgm:<P>From the Mission of San Jose&acute; to the Pueblo of San Jose&acute;, the distance is fifteen miles, for the most part over a level and highly fertile plain, producing a variety of indigenous grasses, among which I noticed several species of clover and mustard, large tracts of which we rode through, the stalks varying from six to ten feet in height.  The plain is watered by several <HI REND="italics">arroyos</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We met this morning a Californian <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
125.sgm:, or travelling-cart, freighted with women and children, bound on a pleasure excursion.  The <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
125.sgm: is the rudest specimen of the wheeled vehicle I have seen.  The wheels are transverse sections of a log, and are usually about 2 1/2 feet in diameter, and varying in thickness from the centre to the rim.  These wheels are coupled together by an axletree, into which a tongue is inserted.  On the axletree and tongue rests a frame, constructed of square pieces of timber, six or eight feet in length, and four or five in breadth, into which are inserted a number of stakes about four feet in length.  This frame-work being covered and floored with raw hides, the carriage is complete.  The <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
125.sgm: which we met was drawn by two yokes of oxen, driven by an Indian vaquero, mounted on a horse.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:the rear were two <HI REND="italics">caballeros</HI>
125.sgm:, riding fine spirited horses, with gaudy trappings.  They were dressed in steeple-crowned glazed <HI REND="italics">sombreros, serapes</HI>
125.sgm: of fiery colours, velvet (cotton) <HI REND="italics">calzoneros</HI>
125.sgm:, white cambric <HI REND="italics">calzoncillos</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The party halted as soon as we met them, the men touching their heavy <HI REND="italics">sombreros</HI>
125.sgm:, and uttering the usual salutation of the morning, " <HI REND="italics">Buenos dios, senores</HI>
125.sgm:," and shaking hands with us very cordially.  The same salutation was repeated by all the senoras and senoritas in the <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
125.sgm:.  In dress and personal appearance the women of this party were much inferior to the men,  Their skins were dark, sallow, and shrivelled; and their costume, a loose gown and <HI REND="italics">reboso</HI>
125.sgm:, were made of very common materials.  The children, however, were all handsome, with sparkling eyes and ruddy complexions.  Women and children were seated, <HI REND="italics">a&grave; la Turque</HI>
125.sgm:, on the bottom of the <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We arrived at the Pueblo de San Jose&acute; about twelve o'clock.  There being no hotels in California, we were much at a loss where to apply for refreshments and lodgings for the night.  Soon, however, we were met by Captain Fisher, a native of Massachusetts, but a resident of this country for twenty years or more, who invited us to his house.  We were most civilly received by Senora F., who, although she did not speak English, seemed to understand it very well.  She is a native of the southern Pacific coast of Mexico, and a lady of fine manners and personal appearance.  Her eldest daughter, about thirteen years of age, is very beautiful.  An excellent dinner was soon set out, with a variety of the native wines of California and other liquors.  We could not have felt ourselves more happy and more at home, even at our own firesides and in the midst of our own families.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The Pueblo de San Jose&acute; is a village containing some six or eight hundred inhabitants.  It is situated in what is called the "Pueblo Valley," about fifteen miles south of the southern shore of the Bay of San Francisco.  Through a navigable creek, vessels of considerable burden can approach the town within a distance of five or six miles.  The <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
125.sgm:, or landing, I think, is six miles from the Pueblo.  The fertile plain between this and the town, at certain seasons of the year, is sometimes inundated.  The "Pueblo Valley," which is eighty or one hundred miles in length, varying from ten to twenty in breadth, is well watered by the Rio Santa Clara and numerous <HI REND="italics">arroyos</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The population of the place is composed chiefly of native Californian land-proprietors.  Their ranchos are in the valley, but their residences and gardens are in the town.  We visited this afternoon the garden of Senor Don Antonio Sugnol.  He received us with much politeness, and conducted us through his garden.  Apples, pears, peaches, figs, oranges, and grapes, with other fruits which I do not now recollect, were growing and ripening.  The grape-vines were bowed to the ground with the luxuriance and weight of the yield; and more delicious fruit I never tasted.  From the garden we crossed over to a flouring-mill recently erected by a son-in-law of Don Antonio, a Frenchman by birth.  The mill is a creditable enterprise to the proprietor, and he will coin money from its operations.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The Pueblo de San Jose&acute; is one of the oldest settlements in Alta California.  Captain Fisher pointed out to me a house built of adobes, which has been standing between 80 and 90 years, and no house in the place appeared to be more substantial or in better repair.  A garrison, composed of marines from the United States' ships, and volunteers enlisted from the American settlers in the country, is now stationed here.  The post is under the command of Purser Watmough, of the United States <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:sloop-of-war Portsmouth, commanded by Captain Montgomery.  During the evening I visited several public places (bar-rooms), where I saw men and women engaged promiscuously at the game of <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The mission of Santa Clara is situated about two and a half miles from the town.  A broad <HI REND="italics">alameda</HI>
125.sgm:, shaded by stately trees (elms and willows), planted by the <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
125.sgm:, extends nearly the entire distance, forming a most beautiful drive or walk for equestrians or pedestrians.  The motive of the <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The rich lands surrounding the mission are entirely neglected.  I did not notice a foot of ground under cultivation, except the garden inclosure, which contained a variety of fruits and plants of the temperate and tropical climates.  From want of care these are fast decaying.  Some excellent pears were furnished us by Mrs. Bennett, an American lady, of Amazonian proportions, who, with her family of sons, has taken up her residence in one of the buildings of the mission.  The picture of decay and ruin presented by this once flourishing establishment, surrounded by a country so fertile and scenery so enchanting, is a most melancholy spectacle to the passing traveller, and speaks a language of loud condemnation against the government.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Proceeding on our journey, we travelled fifteen miles over a flat plain, timbered with groves and parks of evergreen oaks, and covered with a great variety of grasses, wild oats, and mustard.  So rank is the growth of mustard in many places, that it is with difficulty that a horse can penetrate through it.  Numerous birds flitted from tree to tree, making the groves musical with their harmonious notes.  The black-tailed deer bounded frequently across our path, and the lurking and stealthy <HI REND="italics">coyotes</HI>
125.sgm: were continually in view.  We halted at a small cabin, with a <HI REND="italics">corral</HI>
125.sgm: near it, in order to breathe our horses, and refresh ourselves.  Captain Fisher had kindly filled a small sack with bread, cheese, roasted beef, and a small jug of excellent schiedam.  Entering the cabin, the interior of which was cleanly, we found a solitary woman, young, neatly dressed, and displaying many personal charms.  With the characteristic ease and grace of a Spanish woman, she gave the usual salutation for the hour of the day, " <HI REND="italics">Buenas tardes, senores caballeros</HI>
125.sgm:;" to which we responded by a suitable salutation.  We requested of our hostess some water, which she furnished us immediately, in an earthen bowl.  Opening our sack of provisions, we spread them upon the table, and invited the senora to partake of them with us, which invitation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>While enjoying the <HI REND="italics">pic-nic</HI>
125.sgm: with our agreeable hostess, a <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm: was driven into the <HI REND="italics">corral</HI>
125.sgm: by two <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
125.sgm:<P>To account for the fast travelling in California on horseback, it is necessary to explain the mode by which it is accomplished.  A gentleman who starts upon a journey of one hundred miles, and wishes to perform the trip in a day, will take with him ten fresh horses and a <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
125.sgm:.  The eight loose horses are placed under the charge of the <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
125.sgm:, and are driven in front, at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour, according to the speed that is required for the journey.  At the end of twenty miles, the horses which have been rode are discharged and turned into the <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Twenty-five miles, at a rapid gait over a level and fertile plain, brought us to the rancho of Don Francisco Sanchez, where we halted to change horses.  Breathing our animals a short time, we resumed our journey, and reached the mission of San Francisco Dolores, three miles from the town of San Francisco, just after sunset.  Between the mission and the town the road is very sandy, and we determined to remain here for the night, <HI REND="italics">corraling</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
125.sgm: 21.--We rose at daylight.  The morning was clear, and our horses were shivering with the cold.  The mission of San Francisco is situated at the northern terminus of the fertile plain over which we travelled yesterday, and at the foot, on the eastern side, of the coast range of mountains.  These mountains are of considerable elevation.  The shore of the Bay of San Francisco is about two miles distant from the mission.  An <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Our aged host, notwithstanding he is a pious Catholic, and considers us as heretics and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:heathens, gave us his benediction in a very impressive manner when we were about to start.  Mounting our horses at sunrise, we travelled three miles over low ridges of sandhills, with sufficient soil, however, to produce a thick growth of scrubby evergreen oak, and brambles of hawthorn, wild currant and gooseberry bushes, rose bushes, briers, etc.  We reached the residence of Wm. A. Leidesdorff, Esq., late American vice-consul at San Francisco, when the sun was about an hour high.  The morning was calm and beautiful.  Not a ripple disturbed the placid and glassy surface of the magnificent bay and harbour, upon which rested at anchor thirty large vessels, consisting of whalemen, merchantmen, and the U. S. sloop-of-war Portsmouth, Captain Montgomery.  Besides these, there were numerous small craft, giving to the harbour a commercial air, of which some of the large cities on the Atlantic coast would feel vain.  The bay, from the town of San Francisco due east, is about twelve miles in breadth.  An elevated range of hills bounds the view on the opposite side.  These slope gradually down, and between them and the shore there is a broad and fertile plain, which is called the <HI REND="italics">Contra Costa</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We were received with every mark of respectful attention and cordial hospitality by Mr. Leidesdorff.  Mr. L. is a native of Denmark; was for some years a resident of the United States; but subsequently the captain of a merchant vessel, and has been established at this place as a merchant some five or six years.  The house in which he resides, now under the process of completion, is the largest private building in the town.  Being shown to a well-furnished room, we changed our travel-soiled clothing for a more civilized costume, by which time breakfast was announced, and we were ushered into a large dining-hall.  In the centre stood a table, upon which was spread a substantial breakfast of stewed and fried beef, fried onions, and potatoes, bread, butter, and coffee.  Our appetites were very sharp, and we did full justice to the merits of the fare before us.  The servants waiting upon the table were an Indian <HI REND="italics">muchachito</HI>
125.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">muchachita</HI>
125.sgm:, about ten or twelve years of age.  They had not been long from their wild <HI REND="italics">rancherias</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The Portsmouth, Commander Montgomery, is the only United States vessel of war now lying in the harbour.  She is regarded as the finest vessel of her class belonging to our navy.  By invitation of Lieutenant Bartlett, I went on board of her between ten and eleven o'clock.  The crew and officers were assembled on deck to attend Divine service.  They were all dressed with great neatness, and seemed to listen with deep attention to the Episcopal service and a sermon, which were read by Commander Montgomery, who is a member of the church.</P>
125.sgm:<P>In the afternoon I walked to the summit of one of the elevated hills in the vicinity of the town, from which I had a view of the entrance to the bay of San Francisco and of the Pacific Ocean.  A thick fog hung over the ocean outside of the bay.  The deep roar of the eternally restless waves, as they broke one after another upon the beach, or dashed against the rock-bound shore, could be heard with great distinctness, although some five or six miles distant.  The entrance from the ocean into the bay is about a mile and half in breadth.  The waters of the bay appear to have forced a passage through the elevated ridge of hills next to the shore of the Pacific.  These rise abruptly on either side of the entrance.  The water at the entrance and inside is of sufficient depth to admit the largest ship that was ever constructed; and so completely land-locked and protected from the winds is the harbour, that vessels can ride at anchor in perfect safety in all kinds of weather.  The capacity of the harbour is sufficient for the accommodation of all the navies of the world.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The town of San Francisco is situated on the south side of the entrance, fronting on the bay, and about six miles from the ocean.  The flow and ebb of the tide are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:sufficient to bring a vessel to the anchorage in front of the town and carry it outside, without the aid of wind, or even against an unfavourable wind.  A more approachable harbour, or one of greater security, is unknown to navigators.  The permanent population of the town is at this time between one and two hundred,<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
125.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">This was in September, 1846.  In June, 1847, when I left San Francisco, on my return to the United States, the population had increased to about twelve hundred, and houses were rising in all directions.</NOTE>
125.sgm:<P>California, until recently, has had no commerce, in the broad signification of the term.  A few commercial houses of Boston and New York have monopolized all the trade on this coast for a number of years.  These houses have sent out ships freighted with cargoes of dry goods and a variety of <HI REND="italics">knick-knacks</HI>
125.sgm: saleable in the country.  The ships are fitted up for the retail sale of these articles, and trade from port to port, vending their wares on board to the rancheros at prices that would be astonishing at home.  For instance, the price of common brown cotton cloth is one dollar per yard, and other articles in this and even greater proportion of advance upon home prices.  They receive in payment for their wares, hides and tallow.  The price of a dry hide is ordinarily one dollar and fifty cents.  The price of tallow I do not know.  When the ship has disposed of her cargo, she is loaded with hides, and returns to Boston, where the hides bring about four or five dollars, according to the fluctuations of the market.  Immense fortunes have been made by this trade; and between the government of Mexico and the traders on the coast California has been literally <HI REND="italics">skinned</HI>
125.sgm:, annually, for the last thirty years.  Of natural wealth the population of California possess a superabundance, and are immensely rich; still, such have been the extortionate prices that they have been compelled to pay for their commonest artificial luxuries and wearing-apparel, that generally they are but indifferently provided with the ordinary necessaries of civilized life.  For a suit of clothes, which in New York or Boston would cost seventy-five dollars, the Californian has been compelled to pay five times that sum in hides at one dollar and fifty cents; so that a <HI REND="italics">caballero</HI>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Climate of San Francisco--Periodical winds--Dine on board the Portsmouth--A supper party on shore--Arrival of Commodore Stockton at San Francisco--Rumours of rebellion from the south--Californian court--Trial by jury--Fandango--Californian belles--American pioneers of the Pacific--Reception of Commodore Stockton--Sitca--Captain Fremont leaves San Francisco for the south--Offer our services as volunteers.</P>
125.sgm:<P>FROM the 21st of September to the 13th of October I remained at San Francisco.  The weather during this period was uniformly clear.  The climate of San Francisco is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>On the 21st, by invitation of Captain Montgomery, I dined on board of the sloop-of-war Portsmouth.  The party, including myself, consisted of Colonel Russell, Mr. Jacob, Lieutenant Bartlett, and a son of Captain M.  There are few if any officers in our navy more highly and universally esteemed, for their moral qualities and professional merits, than Captain M.  He is a sincere Christian, a brave officer, and an accomplished gentleman.  Under the orders of Commodore Sloat, he first raised the American flag in San Francisco.  We spent the afternoon most agreeably, and the refined hospitality, courteous manners, and intelligent and interesting conversation of our host made us regret the rapidly fleeting moments.  The wines on the table were the produce of the vine of California, and, having attained age, were of an excellent quality in substance and flavour.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I attended a supper-party given this evening by Mr. Frank Ward.  The party was composed of citizens of the town, and officers of the navy and the merchant and whale ships in the harbour.  In such a company as was here assembled, it was very difficult for me to realize that I was many thousand miles from home, in a strange and foreign country.  All the faces about me were American, and there was nothing in scene or sentiment to remind the guests of their remoteness from their native shores.  Indeed, it seems to be a settled opinion, that California is henceforth to compose a part of the United States, and every American who is now here considers himself as treading upon his own soil, as much as if he were in one of the old thirteen revolutionary states.  Song, sentiment, story, and wit heightened the enjoyments of the excellent entertainment of our host, and the jovial party did not separate until a late hour of the night.  The guests, as may be supposed, were composed chiefly of gentlemen who had, from their pursuits, travelled over most of the world--had seen developments of human character under every variety of circumstance, and observed society, civilized, barbarous, and savage, in all its phases.  Their conversation, therefore, when around the convivial board, possessed an unhackneyed freshness and raciness highly entertaining and instructive.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On the 27th of September, the U.S. frigate Congress, Captain Livingston, bearing the broad pennant of Commodore Stockton, and the U.S. frigate Savannah, Captain Mervine, anchored in the harbour, having sailed from Monterey a day or two previously.  The arrival of these large men-of-war produced an increase of the bustle in the small town.  Blue coats and bright buttons (the naval uniform) became the prevailing costume at the billiard-rooms and other public places, and the plain dress of a private citizen might be regarded as a badge of distinction.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On the 1st of October a courier arrived from the south with intelligence that the Californians at Los Angeles had organized a force and rebelled against the authority of the Americans--that they had also captured and American merchant-vessel lying at San Pedro, the port of the city of Angels, about thirty miles distant, and robbed it of a quantity of merchandise and specie.  Whether this latter report was or was not true, I do not know--the former was correct.  The frigate Savannah sailed for Los Angeles immediately.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Among those American naval officers whose agreeable acquaintance I made at San Francisco, was Mr. James F. Schenck, first-lieutenant of the frigate Congress, brother of the distinguished member of congress from Ohio of that name,--a native of Dayton, Ohio,--a gentleman of intelligence, keen wit, and a most accomplished officer.  The officers of our navy are our representatives in foreign countries, and they are generally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Among the novelties presented while at San Francisco was a trial by jury--the second tribunal of this kind which had been organized in California.  The trial took place before Judge Bartlett, and the litigants were two Mormons.  Counsel was employed on both sides.  Some of the forms of American judicial proceedings were observed, and many of the legal technicalities and nice flaws, so often urged in common-law courts, were here argued by the learned counsel of the parties, with a vehemence of language and gesticulation with which I thought the legal learning and acumen displayed did not correspond.  The proceedings were a mixture, made up of common law, equity, and a sprinkling of military despotism--which last ingredient the court was compelled to employ, when entangled in the intricate meshes woven by the counsel for the litigants, in order to extricate itself.  The jury, after the case was referred to them, were what is called "hung;" they could not agree, and the matters in issue, therefore, remained exactly where they were before the proceedings were commenced.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I attended one evening a <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
125.sgm: given by Mr. Ridley, an English gentleman, whose wife is a Californian lady.  Several of the senoras and senoritas from the ranchos of the vicinity were present.  The Californian ladies dance with much ease and grace.  The waltz appears to be a favourite with them.  Smoking is not prohibited in these assemblies, nor is it confined to the gentlemen.  The <HI REND="italics">cigarita</HI>
125.sgm:<P>I had the pleasure of being introduced, at the residence of Mr. Leidesdorff, to two young ladies, sisters and belles in Alta California.  They are members of an old and numerous family on the Contra Costa.  Their names are singular indeed, for, if I heard them correctly, one of them was called Donna Maria Jesus, and the other Donna Maria Conception.  They were interesting and graceful young ladies, with regular features, symmetrical figures, and their dark eyes flashed with all the intelligence and passion characteristic of Spanish women.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Among the gentlemen with whom I met soon after my arrival at San Francisco, and whose acquaintance I afterwards cultivated, were Mr. E. Grimes and Mr. N. Spear, both natives of Massachusetts, but residents of this coast and of the Pacific Islands, for many years.  They may be called the patriarchs of American pioneers on the Pacific.  After forming an acquaintance with Mr. G., if any one were to say to me that <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Old Grimes is dead, that good old man,"<LB></HI>
125.sgm:<P>I should not hesitate to contradict him with emphasis; for he is still living, and possesses all the charities and virtues which can adorn human nature, with some of the eccentricities of his name-sake in the song.  By leading a life of peril and adventure on the Pacific Ocean for fifty years he has accumulated a large fortune, and is a man now proverbial for his integrity, candour, and charities.  Both of these gentlemen have been largely engaged in the local comerce of the Pacific.  Mr. S., some twenty-five or thirty years ago, colonized one of the Cannibal Islands, and remained upon it with the colony for nearly two years.  The attempt to introduce agriculture into the island was a failure, and the enterprise was afterwards abandoned.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On the evening of the third of October, it having been announced that Commodore Stockton would land on the fifth, a public meeting of the citizens was called by the alcalde, for the purpose of adopting suitable arrangements for his reception, in his civic capacity as governor.  The meeting was convened in the <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"Agreeable to public notice, a large number of the citizens of San Francisco and vicinity assembled in Portsmouth Square for the purpose of meeting his excellency Robert F. Stockton, to welcome his arrival, and offer him the hospitalities of the city.  At ten o'clock, a procession was formed, led by the Chief Marshal of the day, supported on either hand by two aids, followed by an excellent band of music--a military escort, under command of Captain J. Zeilen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"General Mariano Guadaloupe Valle&acute;jo, with several others who had held office under the late government, took their appropriate place in the line.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The procession moved in fine style down Portsmouth Street to the landing, and formed a line in Water Street.  The Governor--General landed from his barge, and was met on the wharf by Captain John B. Montgomery, U.S.N., Judge W. A. Bartlett, and Marshal of the day (Frank Ward), who conducted him to the front of the line, and presented him to the procession, through the orator of the day, Colonel Russell, who addressed the commodore."</P>
125.sgm:<P>When the governor and commander-in-chief had closed his reply, the procession moved through the principal streets, and halted in front of Captain Leidesdorff's residence, where the governor and suite entered, and was presented to a number of ladies, who welcomed him to the shores of California.  After which a large portion of the procession accompanied the governor, on horseback, to the mission of San Francisco Dolores, several miles in the country, and returned to an excellent collation prepared by the committee of arrangements, at the house of Captain Leidesdorff.  After the cloth was removed, the usual number of regular toasts, prepared by the committee of arrangements, and numerous volunteer sentiments by the members of the company, were drunk with many demonstrations of enthusiasm, and several speeches were made.  In response to a complimentary toast, Commodore Stockton made an eloquent address of an hour's length.  The toasts given in English were translated into Spanish, and those given in Spanish were translated into English.  A ball in honour of the occasion was given by the committee of arrangements in the evening, which was attended by all the ladies, native and foreign, in the town and vicinity, the naval officers attached to the three ships of war, and the captains of the merchant vessels lying in the harbour.  So seductive were the festivities of the day and the pleasures of the dance, that they were not closed until a late hour of the night, or rather until an early hour in the morning.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Among the numerous vessels of many nations at anchor in the harbour is a Russian brig from Sitca, the central port of the Russian-American Fur Company, on the north-western coast of this continent.  She is commanded by Lieutenant Ruducoff of the Russian navy, and is here to be freighted with wheat to supply that settlement with bread-stuff.  Sitca is situated in a high northern latitude, and has a population of some four or five thousand inhabitants.  A large portion of these, I conjecture, are christianized natives or Indians.  Many of the crew of this vessel are the aborigines of the country to which she belongs, and from which she last sailed.  I noticed, however, from an inscription, that the brig was built at Newburyport, Massachusetts, showing that the autocrat of all the Russias is tributary, to some extent, to the free Yankees of New England for his naval equipment.  On the 11th of October, by invitation of Lieutenant Ruducoff, in company of Mr. Jacob and Captain Leidesdorff, I dined on board this vessel.  The Russian customs are in some respects peculiar.  Soon after we reached the vessel and were shown into the cabin, a lunch was served up.  This consisted of a variety of dried and smoked fish, pickled fish-roe, and other hyperborean pickles, the nature of which, whether animal or vegetable, I could not determine.  Various wines and liquors accompanied this lunch, the discussion of which lasted until an Indian servant, a native of the north-pole or thereabouts, announced dinner.  We were then shown into a handsomely furnished dining-cabin, where the table was spread.  The dinner consisted of several courses, some of which were peculiarly Russian or Sitcan, and I regret that my culinary knowledge is not equal to the task of describing them, for the benefit of epicures of a more southern region than the place of their invention.  They were certainly very delightful to the palate.  The afternoon glided away most agreeably.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On the 12th of October, Captain Fremont, with a number of volunteers destined for the south, to co-operate with Commodore Stockton in the suppression of the reported rebellion at Los Angeles, arrived at San Francisco from the Sacramento.  I had previously offered my services, and Mr. Jacob had done the same, to Commodore Stockton, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Leave San Francisco for Sonoma--Sonoma creek--"Bear men."--Islands in the bay--Liberality of "Uncle Sam" to sailors--Sonoma--Beautiful country--General Valle&acute;jo--Senora Valle&acute;jo--Thomas O. Larkin, U.S. Consul--Signs of rain--The seasons in California--More warlike rumours from the south--Mission of San Rafael--An Irish ranchero--Sausolito--Return to San Francisco--Meet Lippincott--Discomfort of Californian houses.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Among the passengers in the boat were Mr. Ide, who acted so conspicuous a part in what is called the "Bear Revolution," and Messrs. Nash and Grigsby, who were likewise prominent in this movement.  The boat was manned by six sailors and a cockswain.  We passed Yerba Buena, Bird, and several other small islands in the bay.  Some of these are white, as if covered with snow, from the deposit upon them of bird-manure.  Tens of thousands of wild geese, ducks, gulls, and other water-fowls, were perched upon them, or sporting in the waters of the bay, making a prodigious cackling and clatter with their voices and wings.  By the aid of oars and sails we reached the mouth of Sonoma creek about 9 o'clock at night, where we landed and encamped on the low marsh which borders the bay on this side.  The marshes contiguous to the Bay of San Francisco are extensive, and with little trouble I believe they could be reclaimed and transformed into valuable and productive rice plantations.  Having made our supper on raw salt pork and bread generously furnished by the sailors, as soon as we landed, we spread our blankets on the damp and rank vegetation and slept soundly until morning.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm: 14.--Wind and tide being favourable, at daylight we proceeded up the serpentine creek, which winds through a flat and fertile plain, sometimes marshy, at others more elevated and dry, to the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
125.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
125.sgm: we walked, under the influence of the rays of an almost broiling sun, four miles to the town of Sonoma.  The plain, which lies between the laning and Sonoma, is timbered sparsely with evergreen oaks.  The luxuriant grass is now brown and crisp.  The hills surrounding this beautiful valley or plain are gentle, sloping, highly picturesque, and covered to their tops with wild <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:oats.  Reaching Sonoma, we procured lodgings in a large and half-finished adobe house, erected by Don Salvador Valle&acute;jo, but now occupied by Mr. Griffith, an American emigrant, originally from North Carolina.  Sonoma is one of the old mission establishments of California; but there is now scarcely a mission building standing, most of them having fallen into shapeless masses of mud; and a few years will prostrate the roofless walls which are now standing.  The principal houses in the place are the residences of Gen. Don Mariano Guadaloupe Valle&acute;jo; his brother-in-law, Mr. J. P. Leese, an American; and his brother, Don Salvador Valle&acute;jo.  The quartel, a barn-like adobe house, faces the public square.  The town presents a most dull and ruinous appearance; but the country surrounding it is exuberantly fertile, and romantically picturesque, and Sonoma, under American authority, and with an American population, will very soon become a secondary commercial point, and a delightful residence.  Most of the buildings are erected around a <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
125.sgm:, about two hundred yards square.  The only ornaments in this square are numerous skulls and dislocated skeletons of slaughtered beeves, with which hideous remains the ground is strewn.  Cold and warm springs gush from the hills near the town, and supply, at all seasons, a sufficiency of water to irrigate any required extent of ground on the plain below.  I noticed outside of the square several groves of peach and other fruit trees, and vineyards, which were planted here by the <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
125.sgm:; but the walls and fences that once surrounded them are now fallen, or have been consumed for fuel; and they are exposed to the <HI REND="italics">mercies</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm: 15.--I do not like to trouble the reader with a frequent reference to the myriads of fleas and other vermin which infest the rancherias and old mission establishments in California; but, if any sinning soul ever suffered the punishments of purgatory before leaving its tenement of clay, those torments were endured by myself last night.  When I rose from my blankets this morning, after a sleepless night, I do not think there was an inch square of my body that did not exhibit the inflammation consequent upon a puncture by a flea, or some other equally rabid and poisonous insect.  Small-pox, erysipelas, measles, and scarlet fever combined, could not have imparted to my skin a more inflamed and sanguineous appearance.  The multitudes of these insects, however, have been generated by Indian filthiness.  They do not disturb the inmates of those <HI REND="italics">casas</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Having letters of introduction to General Valle&acute;jo and Mr. Leese, I delivered them this morning.  General Valle&acute;jo is a native Californian, and a gentleman of intelligence and taste far superior to most of his countrymen.  The interior of his house presented a different appearance from any house occupied by native Californians which I have entered since I have been in the country.  Every apartment, even the main entrance-hall and corridors, were scrupulously clean, and presented an air of comfort which I have not elsewhere seen in California.  The parlour was furnished with handsome chairs, sofas, mirrors, and tables, of mahogany framework, and a fine piano, the first I have seen in the country.  Several paintings and some superior engravings ornamented the walls.  Senora Valle&acute;jo is a lady of charming personal appearance, and possesses in the highest degree that natural grace, ease, and warmth of manner which render Spanish ladies so attractive and fascinating to the stranger.  The children, some five or six in number, were all beautiful and interesting.  General V. is, I believe, strongly desirous that the United States shall retain and annex California.  He is thoroughly disgusted with Mexican sway, which is fast sending his country backwards, instead of forwards, in the scale of civilization, and for years he has been desirous of the change which has now taken place.</P>
125.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we visited the house of Mr. Leese, which is also furnished in American style.  Mr. L. is the proprietor of a vineyard in the vicinity of the town, and we were regaled upon grapes as luscious, I dare say, as the forbidden fruit that provoked the first transgression.  Nothing of the fruit kind can exceed the delicious richness and flavour of the California grape.</P>
125.sgm:<P>This evening Thomas O. Larkin, Esq., late United States Consul for California, arrived here, having left San Francisco on the same morning that we did, travelling by land.  Mr. L. resides in Monterey, but I had the pleasure of an introduction to him at San Francisco several days previously to my leaving that place.  Mr. L. is a native of Boston, and has been a resident in California for about fifteen years, during which time he has, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We had made preparations this morning to visit a rancho, belonging to General Vale&acute;jo, in company with the general and Mr. Larkin.  This rancho contains about eleven leagues of land, bordering upon a portion of the Bay of San Francisco, twenty-five or thirty miles distant from Sonoma.  Just as we were about mounting our horses, however, a courier arrived from San Francisco with despatches from Captain Montgomery, addressed to Lieutenant Revere, the military commandant at this post, giving such intelligence in regard to the insurrection at the south, that we determined to return to San Francisco forthwith.  Procuring horses, and accompanied by Mr. Larkin, we left Sonoma about two o'clock in the afternoon, riding at the usual California speed.  After leaving Sonoma plain we crossed a ridge of hills, and entered the fertile and picturesque valley of Petaluma creek, which empties into the bay.  General Valle&acute;jo has an extensive rancho in this valley, upon which he has recently erected, at great expense, a very large house.  Architecture, however, in this country is in its infancy.  The money expended in erecting this house, which presents to the eye no tasteful architectural attractions, would, in the United States, have raised a palace of symmetrical proportions, and adorned it with every requisite ornament.  Large herds of cattle were grazing in this valley.</P>
125.sgm:<P>From Petaluma valley we crossed a high rolling country, and reached the mission of San Rafael (forty-five miles) between seven and eight o'clock in the evening.  San Rafael is situated two or three miles from the shore of the bay, and commands an extensive view of the bay and its islands.  The mission buildings are generally in the same ruinous condition I have before described.  We put up at the house of a Mr. Murphy, a scholastic Irish bachelor, who has been a resident of California for a number of years.  His <HI REND="italics">casa</HI>
125.sgm:, when we arrived, was closed, and it was with some difficulty that we could gain admission.  When, however, the occupant of the house had ascertained, from one of the loopholes of the building, who we were, the doors were soon unbarred and we were admitted, but not without many sallies of Irish wit, sometimes good-natured, and sometimes keenly caustic and ironical.  We found a table spread with cold mutton and cold beef upon it.  A cup of coffee was soon prepared by the Indian muchachos and muchachas, and our host brought outsome scheidam and <HI REND="italics">aguardie&acute;nte</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm:<P>I met, soon after my arrival, Mr. Lippincott, heretofore mentioned, who accompanied us a portion of the distance over the mountains; and Mr. Hastings, who, with Mr. Hudspeth, conducted a party of the emigrants from fort Bridger by the new route, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
125.sgm: the south end <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>I remained at San Francisco from the 18th to the 22d of October.  The weather during this time was sufficiently cool to render fires necessary to comfort in the houses; but fire-places or stoves are luxuries which but few of the San Franciscans have any knowledge of, except in their kitchens.  This deficiency, however, will soon be remedied.  American settlers here will not build houses without chimneys.  They would as soon plan a house without a door, or with the entrance upon its roof, in imitation of the architecture of the Pueblo Indians of New Mexico.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Boat trip up the bay and the Sacramento to New Helvetia--An appeal to the alcalde--Kanackas--Straits of San Pueblo and Pedro--Straits of Carquinez--Town of Francisca--Feather-beds furnished by nature--Mouth of the Sacramento--Islands--Delaware Tom--A man who has forgotten his mother tongue--Salmon of the Sacramento--Indian fishermen--Arrive at New Helvetia.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We left San Francisco about two o'clock P.M., and, crossing the mouth of the bay, boarded a Mexican schooner, a prize captured by the U.S. sloop-of-war Cyane, Captain Dupont, which had entered the bay this morning and anchored in front of Sausolito.  The prize is commanded by Lieutenant Renshaw, a gallant officer of our navy.  Our object in boarding the schooner was to learn the latest news, but she did not bring much.  We met on board the schooner Lieutenant Hunter of the Portsmouth, a chivalrous officer, and Lieutenant Ruducoff, commanding the Russian brig previously mentioned, whose vessel, preparatory to sailing, was taking in water at Sausolito.  Accepting of his pressing invitation, we visited the brig, and took a parting glass of wine with her gallant and gentlemanly commander.</P>
125.sgm:<P>About five o'clock P.M., we proceeded on our voyage.  At eight o'clock a dense fog hung over the bay, and, the ebb-tide being adverse to our progress, we were compelled to find a landing for our small and frail craft.  This was not an easy matter, in the almost impenetrable darkness.  As good-luck would have it, however, after we had groped about for some time, a light was discovered by our skipper.  He rowed the boat towards it, but grounded.  Hauling off, he made another attempt with better success, reaching within hailing distance of the shore.  The light proceeded from a camp-fire of three Kanacka (Sandwich island) runaway sailors.  As soon as they ascertained who we were and what we wanted, they stripped themselves naked, and, wading through the mud and water to the boat, took us on their shoulders, and carried us high and dry to the land.  The boat, being thus lightened of her burden, was rowed farther up, and landed.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The natives of the Sandwich islands (Kanackas, as they are called) are, without doubt, the most expert watermen in the world.  Their performances in swimming and diving are so extraordinary, that they may almost be considered amphibious in their natures and instincts.  Water appears to be as much their natural element as the land.  They have straight black hair, good features, and an amiable and intelligent expression of countenance.  Their complexion resembles that of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm: 23.--The damp raw weather, auguring the near approach of the autumnal rains, continues.  A drizzling mist fell on us during the night, and the clouds were not dissipated when we resumed our voyage this morning.  Passing through the straits of San Pablo and San Pedro, we entered a division of the bay called the bay of San Pablo.  Wind and tide being in our favour, we crossed this sheet of water, and afterwards entered and passed through the Straits of <HI REND="italics">Carquinez</HI>
125.sgm:.  At these straits the waters of the bay are compressed within the breadth of a mile, for the distance of about two leagues.  On the southern side the shore is hilly, and <HI REND="italics">canoned</HI>
125.sgm: in some places.  The northern shore is gentle, the hills and table-land sloping gradually down to the water.  We landed at the bend of the Straits of <HI REND="italics">Carquinez</HI>
125.sgm:<P>[Subsequently to this my first visit here, a town of extensive dimensions has been laid off by Gen. Valle&acute;jo and Mr. Semple, the proprietors, under the name of "Francisca."  It fronts for two or three miles on the " <HI REND="italics">Soeson</HI>
125.sgm:<P>About sunset we resumed our voyage.  The wind having lulled, we attempted to stem the adverse tide by the use of oars, but the ebb of the tide was stronger than the propelling force of our oars.  Soon, in spite of all our exertions, we found ourselves drifting rapidly backwards, and, after two or three hours of hard labour in the dark, we were at last so fortunate as to effect a landing in a cove on the southern side of the straits, having retrograded several miles.  In the cove there is a small sandy beach, upon which the waves have drifted, and deposited a large quantity of oat-straw, and feathers shed by the millions of water-fowls which sport upon the bay.  On this downy deposit furnished by nature we spread our blankets, and slept soundly.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm: 24.--We proceeded on our voyage at daylight, coasting along the southern shore of the <HI REND="italics">Soeson</HI>
125.sgm:.  About nine o'clock we landed on a marshy plain, and cooked breakfast.  A range of mountains bounds this plain, the base of which is several miles from the shore of the bay.  These mountains, although of considerable elevation, exhibit signs of fertility to their summits.  On the plain, numerous herds of wild cattle were grazing.  About two o'clock, P.M., we entered the mouth of the Sacramento.  The Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers empty into the Bay of San Francisco at the same point, about sixty miles from the Pacific, and by numerous mouths or <HI REND="italics">sloughs</HI>
125.sgm:<P>At twelve o'clock at night, the ebb-tide <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm: 25.--Continuing our voyage, we landed, about nine o'clock, A.M., at an Indian <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
125.sgm:, situated on the bank of the river.  An old Indian, his wife, and two or three children, were all the present occupants of this <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
125.sgm:.  The woman was the most miserable and emaciated object I ever beheld.  She was probably a victim of the "sweat-house."  Surrounding the <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The tide turning against us again about eleven or twelve o'clock, we landed at an encampment of Walla-Walla Indians, a portion of the party previously referred to, and reported to have visited California for hostile purposes.  Among them was a Delaware Indian, known as "Delaware Tom," who speaks English as fluently as any Anglo-Saxon, and is a most gallant and honourable Indian.  Several of the party, a majority of whom were women and children, were sick with chills and fever.  The men were engaged in hunting and jerking deer and elk meat.  Throwing our hooks, baited with fresh meat, into the river, we soon drew out small fish enough for dinner.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The specimens of Walla-Wallas at this encampment are far superior to the Indians of California in features, figure, and intelligence.  Their complexion is much lighter, and their features more regular, expressive, and pleasing.  Men and women were clothed in dressed skins.  The men were armed with rifles.</P>
125.sgm:<P>At sunset we put our little craft in motion again, and at one o'clock at night landed near the cabin of a German emigrant named Schwartz, six miles below the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
125.sgm: of New Helvetia.  The cabin is about twenty feet in length by twelve in breadth, constructed of a light rude frame, shingled with <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Our host, Mr. Schwartz, is one of those eccentric human phenomena rarely met with, who, wandering from their own nation into foreign countries, forget their own language without acquiring any other.  He speaks a tongue (language it cannot be called) peculiar to himself, and scarcely intelligible.  It is a mixture, in about equal parts, of German, English, French, Spanish, and <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
125.sgm: Indian, a compounded polyglot or lingual <HI REND="italics">pi</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">October</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Near the house was a shed containing some forty or fifty barrels of pickled salmon, but the fish, from their having been badly put up, were spoiled.  Mr. Schwartz attempted to explain the particular causes of this, but I could not understand him.  The salmon are taken with seines dragged across the channel of the river by Indians in canoes.  On the bank of the river the Indians were eating their break-fast, which consisted of a large fresh salmon, roasted in the ashes or embers, and a kettle of <HI REND="italics">atole</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We reached the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Disastrous news from the south--Return of Colonel Fremont to Monterey--Call for volunteers--Volunteer our services--Leave New Helvetia--Swimming the Sacramento--First fall of rain--Beautiful and romantic valley--Precipitous mountains--Deserted house--Arable land of California--Fattening qualities of the acorn--Lost in the Coast Mountains--Strange Indians--Indian women gathering grass-seed for bread--Indian guide--Laguna--Rough dialogue--Hunters' camp--"Old Greenwood"--Grisly bear meat--Greenwood's account of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>I REMAINED at the fort from the 27th to the 30th of October.  On the 28th, Mr. Reed, whom I have before mentioned as belonging to the rear emigrating party, arrived here.  He left his party on Mary's River, and in company with one man crossed the desert and the mountains.  He was several days without provisions, and, when he arrived at Johnson's, was so much emaciated and exhausted by fatigue and famine, that he could scarcely walk.  His object was to procure provisions immediately, and to transport them with pack-mules over the mountains for the relief of the suffering emigrants behind.  He had lost all of his cattle, and had been compelled to <HI REND="italics">cache</HI>
125.sgm:<P>On the evening of the 28th, a courier arrived with letters from Colonel Fremont, now at Monterey.  The substance of the intelligence received by the courier was, that a large force of Californians (varying, according to different reports, from five to fifteen hundred strong) had met the marines and sailors, four hundred strong, under the command of Captain Mervine, of the U.S. frigate Savannah, who had landed at San Pedro for the purpose of marching to Los Angeles, and had driven Captain Mervine and his force back to the ship, with the loss, in killed, of six men.  That the towns of Angeles and Santa Barbara had been taken by the insurgents, and the American garrisons there had either been captured or had made their escape by retreating.  What had become of them was unknown.<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
125.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">The garrison under Captain Gillespie, at Los Angeles, capitulated.  The garrison at Santa Barbara, under Lieutenant Talbot, marched out in defiance of the enemy, and after suffering many hardships arrived in safety at Monterey.</NOTE>
125.sgm:<P>On the receipt of this intelligence, I immediately drew up a paper, which was signed by myself, Messrs Reed, Jacob, Lippincott, and Grayson, offering our services as volunteers, and our exertions to raise a force of emigrants and Indians which would be a sufficient reinforcement to Colonel Fremont.  This paper was addressed to Mr. Kern, the commandant of Fort Sacramento, and required his sanction.  The next morning (29th) he accepted of our proposal, and the labour of raising the volunteers and of procuring the necessary clothing and supplies for them and the Indians was apportioned.</P>
125.sgm:<P>It commenced raining on the night of the twenty-eighth, and the rain fell heavily and steadily until twelve o'clock, M., on the twenty-ninth.  This is the first fall of rain since March last.  About one o'clock, P.M., the clouds cleared away and the weather and temperature were delightful.</P>
125.sgm:<P>About twelve o'clock, on the 30th, accompanied by Mr. Grayson, I left New Helvetia.  We crossed the Sacramento at the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Proceeding ten miles over a level plain, we overtook a company of emigrants bound for Nappa valley, and encamped with them for the night on Puta creek, a tributary of the Sacramento.  Five of the seven or eight men belonging to the company enrolled their names as volunteers.  The grass on the western side of the Sacramento is very rank and of an excellent quality.</P>
125.sgm:<P>It commenced raining about two o'clock on the morning of the 31st, and continued to rain and mist all day.  We crossed from Puta to Cache creek, reaching the residence of Mr. Gordon (25 miles) about three o'clock P.M.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 1st of November the sun shone out warm and pleasant.  The birds were singing, chattering, and flitting from tree to tree, through the romantic and picturesque valley where we had slept during the night.  The scenery and its adjuncts were so charming and enticing that I recommenced my travels with reluctance.  No scenery can be more beautiful than that of the small valleys of California.  Ascending the range of elevated mountains which border the Cache creek, we had a most extensive view of the broad plain of the Sacramento, stretching with islands and belts of timber far away to the south as the eye could penetrate.  The gorges and summits of these mountains are timbered with large pines, firs, and cedars, with a smaller growth of magnolias, manzanitas, hawthorns, etc., etc.  Travelling several miles over a level plateau, we descended into a beautiful valley, richly carpeted with grass and timbered with evergreen oak.  Proceeding across this three or four miles, we rose another range of moutains, and, travelling a league along the summit ridge, we descended through a crevice in a steep rocky precipice, just sufficient in breadth to admit the passage of our animals.  Our horses were frequently compelled to slide or leap down nearly perpendicular rocks or stairs, until we finally, just after sunset, reached the bottom of the mountain, and found ourselves in another level and most fertile and picturesque valley.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We knew that in this valley, of considerable extent, there was a house known as "Barnett's," where we expected to find quarters for the night.  There were numerous trails of cattle, horses, deer, and other wild animals, crossing each other in every direction through the live oak-timber.  We followed on the largest of the cattle trails until it became so blind that we could not see it.  Taking another, we did the same, and the result was the same; another and another with no better success.  We then shouted so loud that our voices were echoed and re-echoed by the surrounding mountains, hoping, if there were any inhabitants in the valley, that they would respond to us.  There was no response--all was silent when the sound of our voices died away in the gorges and ravines; and at ten o'clock at night we encamped under the wide-spreading branches of an oak, having travelled about 40 miles.  Striking a fire and heaping upon it a large quanity of wood, which blazed brightly, displaying the Gothic shapes of the surrounding oaks, we picketed our animals, spread our blankets, and slept soundly.</P>
125.sgm:<P>It rained several hours during the night, and in the morning a dense fog filled the valley.  Saddling our animals, we searched along the foot of the next range of mountains for a trail, but could find none.  Returning to our camp, we proceeded up the valley, and struck a trail, by following which two miles, we came to the house (Barnett's).  The door was ajar, and entering the dwelling we found it tenantless.  The hearth was cold, and the ashes in the jambs of the large fire-place were baked.  In the corners of the building there were some frames, upon which beds had been once spread.  The house evidently had been abandoned by its former occupants for some time.  The prolific mothers of several families of the swinish species, with their squealing progenies, gathered around us, in full expectation, doubtless, of the dispensation of an extra ration, which we had not to give.  Having eaten nothing but a crust of bread for 24 hours, the inclination of our appetites was strong to draw upon them for a ration; but for old acquaintance' sake, and because they were the foreshadowing of the "manifest destiny," they were permitted to pass without molestation.  There were two or three small inclosures near the house, where corn and wheat had been planted and harvested this year; but none of the product of the harvest could be found in the empty house, or on the place.  Dismounting from our horses at a limpid spring-branch near the house, we slaked our thirst, and made our hydropathical breakfast from its cool and delicious water.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Although the trail of the valley did not run in our course, still, under the expectation that it would soon take another direction, we followed it, passing over a fertile soil, sufficiently timbered and watered by several small streams.  The quantity of arable land in California, I believe, is much grater than has generally been supposed from the accounts of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>We left the valley in a warm and genial sunshine, about 11 o'clock, and commenced ascending another high mountain, timbered as those I have previously described.  When we reached the summit, we were enveloped in clouds, and the rain was falling copiously, and a wintry blast drove the cold element to our skins.  Crossing this mountain three or four miles, we descended its steep sides, and entered another beautiful and romantic hollow, divided as it were into various apartments by short ranges of low conical hills, covered to their summits with grass and wild oats.  The grass and other vegetation on the level bottom are very rank, indicating a soil of the most prolific qualities.  In winding through this valley, we met four Indians on foot, armed with long bows, and arrows of corresponding weight and length, weapons that I have not previously seen among the Indians.  Their complexions were lighter than those of the <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Ascending and descending gradually over some low hills, we entered another circular valley, through which flows a stream, the waters of which, judging from its channel, at certain seasons are broad and deep.  The ground, from the rains that have recently fallen and are now falling, is very soft, and we had difficulty in urging our tired animals across this valley.  We soon discovered fresh cattle signs, and afterwards a large herd grazing near the stream.  Farther on, we saw five old and miserably emaciated Indian women, gathering grass-seed for bread.  This process is performed with two baskets one shaped like a round shield, and the other having a basin and handle.  With the shield the top of the grass is brushed, and the seed by the motion is thrown into the deep basket held in the other hand.  The five women appeared at a distance like so many mowers cutting down the grass of a meadow.  These women could give us no satisfaction in response to inquiries, but pointed over the river indicating that we should there find the <HI REND="italics">casa</HI>
125.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Crossing the river, we struck a trail which led us to the <HI REND="italics">casa</HI>
125.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
125.sgm:, about two miles distant.  The <HI REND="italics">casa</HI>
125.sgm: was a small adobe building, about twelve feet square, and was locked up.  Finding that admission was not to be gained here, we hailed at the <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
125.sgm:, and presently some dozen squalid and naked men, women, and children made their appearance.  We inquired for the <HI REND="italics">mayor domo</HI>
125.sgm:<P>I knew that we had been travelling out of our course all day, and it was now three o'clock, P.M.  Rain and mist had succeeded each other, and the sun was hidden from us by dark and threatening masses of clouds.  We had no compass with us, and could not determine the course to Nappa Valley or Sonoma.  Believing that the Indian would have some knowledge of the latter place, we made him comprehend that we wished to go there, and inquired the route.  He pointed in a direction which he signified would take us to Sonoma.  We pointed in another course, which it seemed to us was the right one.  But he persisted in asserting that he was right.  After some further talk, for the shirt on my back he promised to guide us, and, placing a ragged skin on one of our horses, he mounted the animal and led the way over the next range of hills.  The rain soon poured down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Crossing several elevated and rocky hills, just before sunset, we had a view of a large timbered valley and a sheet of water, the extent of which we could not compass with the eye, on account of the thickness of the atmosphere.  When we came in sight of the water, the Indian uttered various exclamations of pleasure; and, although I had felt but little faith in him as a pilot from the first, I began now to think that we were approaching the Bay of San Francisco.  Descending into the valley, we travelled along a small stream two or three miles, and were continuing on in the twilight, when we heard the tinkling of a cow-bell on the opposite side of the stream.  Certain, from this sound, that there must be an encampment near, I halted and hallooed at the top of my voice.  The halloo called forth a similar response, with an interrogation in English, "Who the d--I are you--Spaniards or Americans?"  "Americans."  "Show yourselves, then, d--n you, and let us see the colour of your hide," was the answer.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Tell us where we can cross the stream, and you shall soon see us," was our reply.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Ride back and follow the sound of my voice, and be d--d to you, and you can cross the stream with a deer's jump."</P>
125.sgm:<P>Accordingly, following the sound of the voice of this rough colloquist, who shouted repeatedly, we rode in the dark several hundred yards, and, plunging into the stream, the channel of which was deep, we gained the other side, where we found three men standing ready to receive us.  We soon discovered them to be a party of professional hunters, or trappers, at the head of which was Mr. Greenwood, a famed mountaineer, commonly known as "Old Greenwood."  They invited us to their camp, situated across a small opening in the timber about half a mile distant.  Having unsaddled our tired animals and turned them loose to graze for the night, we placed our baggage under the cover of a small tent, and, taking our seats by the huge camp fire, made known as far as was expedient our business.  We soon ascertained that we had ridden the entire day (about 40 miles) directly out of our course to Nappa Valley and Sonoma, and that the Indian's information was all wrong.  We were now near the shore of a large lake, called the <HI REND="italics">Laguna</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We found in the camp, much to our gratification after a long fast, an abundance of fat grisly bear-meat and the most delicious and tender deer-meat.  The camp looked like a butcher's stall.  The pot filled with bear-flesh was boiled again and again, and the choice pieces of the tender venison were roasting, and disappearing with singular rapidity for a long time.  Bread there was none of course.  Such a delicacy is unknown to the mountain trappers, nor is it much desired by them.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The hunting party consisted of Mr. Greenwood, Mr. Turner, Mr. Adams, and three sons of Mr. G., one grown, and the other two boys 10 or 12 years of age, half-bred Indians, the mother being a Crow.  One of these boys is named "Governor Boggs," after ex-governor Boggs of Missouri, and old friend of the father.  Mr. Greenwood, or "Old Greenwood," as he is familiarly called, according to his own statement, is 83 years of age, and has been a mountain trapper between 40 and 50 years.  He lived among the Crow Indians, where he married his wife, between thirty and forty years.  He is about six feet in height, raw-boned and spare in flesh, but muscular, and, notwithstanding his old age, walks with all the erectness and elasticity of youth.  His dress was of tanned buckskin, and from its appearance one would suppose its antiquity to be nearly equal to the age of its wearer.  It had probably never been off his body since he first put it on.  "I am," said he, "an old man--eighty-three years--it is a long time to live; --eighty-three years last--.  I have seen all the Injun varmints of the Rocky Mountains,--have fout them--lived with them.  I have many children--I don't know how many, they are scattered; but my wife was a Crow.  The Crows are a brave nation,--the bravest of all the Injuns; they fight like the white man; they don't kill you in the dark like the Black-foot varmint, and then take your scalp <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:and run, the cowardly reptiles.  Eighty-three years last--; and yet old Greenwood could handle the rifle as well as the best on 'em, but for this infernal humour in my eyes, caught three years ago in bringing the emigrators over the <HI REND="italics">de</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The camp consisted of two small tents, which had probably been obtained from the emigrants.  They were pitched so as to face each other, and between them there was a large pile of blazing logs.  On the trees surrounding the camp were stretched the skins of various animals which had been killed in the hunt; some preserved for their hides, others for the fur.  Bear-meat and venison enough for a winter's supply were hanging from the limbs.  The swearing of Turner, a man of immense frame and muscular power, during our evening's conversation, was almost terrific.  I had heard mountain swearing before, but his went far beyond all former examples.  He could do all the swearing for our army in Mexico, and then have a surplus.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The next morning (Nov. 3rd), after partaking of a hearty breakfast, and suspending from our saddles a sufficient supply of venison and bear-meat for two days' journey, we started back on our own trail.  We left our miserable Indian pilot at his <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
125.sgm:.  I gave him the shirt from my back, out of compassion for his sufferings--he well deserved a <HI REND="italics">dressing</HI>
125.sgm:<P>On the morning of the fourth, we found the trail described to us by Mr. Greenwood, and, crossing a ridge of mountains, descended into the valley of Nappa creek, which empties into the Bay of San Francisco just below the Straits of Carquinez.  This is a most beautiful and fertile valley, and is already occupied by several American settlers.  Among the first who established themselves here is Mr. Yount, who soon after erected a flouring-mill and saw-mill.  These have been in operation several years.  Before reaching Mr. Yount's settlement we passed a saw-mill more recently erected, by Dr. Bale.  There seems to be an abundance of pine and red-wood (a species of fir), in the <HI REND="italics">canadas</HI>
125.sgm:.  No lumber can be superior for building purposes than that sawed from the red-wood.  The trees are of immense size, straight, free from knots and twists, and the wood is soft, and easily cut with plane and saw.  Arriving at the residence of Dr. Bale, in Nappa Valley, we were hospitably entertained by him with a late breakfast of coffee, boiled eggs, steaks, and <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
125.sgm:, served up in American style.  Leaving Nappa, after travelling down it some ten or twelve miles, we crossed another range of hills or mountains, and reached Sonoma after dark, our clothing thoroughly drenched with the rain, which, with intermissions, had fallen the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>It rained incessantly on the fifth.  Col. Russell arrived at Sonoma early in the morning, having arrived from San Francisco last night.  Procuring a boat belonging to Messrs. Howard and Mellus, lying at the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
125.sgm:, I left for San Francisco, but, owing to the storm and contrary winds, did not arrive there until the morning of the seventh, being two nights and a day in the creek, and <HI REND="italics">churning</HI>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Leave New Helvetia--Pleasant weather--Meet Indian volunteers--Tule-boats--Engagement between a party of Americans and Californians--Death of Capt. Burroughs and Capt. Foster--Capture of Thomas O. Larkin--Reconnaissance--San Juan Bautista--Neglect of the dead--Large herds of Cattle--Join Col. Fremont.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On my arrival at New Helvetia, I found there Mr. Jacob.  Mr. Reed had not yet returned from the mountains.  Nothing had been heard from Mr. Lippincott, or Mr. Grayson, since I left the latter at Sonoma.  An authorized agent of Col. Fremont had arrived at the fort the day that I left it, with power to take the <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm: of public horses, and to enroll volunteers for the expedition to the south.  He had left two or three days before my arrival, taking with him all the horses and trappings suitable for service, and all the men who had previously <HI REND="italics">rendezvoused</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The weather is now pleasant.  We are occasionally drenched with a shower of rain, after which the sun shines warm and bright; the fresh grass is springing up, and the birds sing and chatter in the groves and thickets as we pass through them.  I rode forward, on the morning of the 17th, to the Micke&acute;lemes River (twenty-five miles from the Coscumne), where I met Antonio, an Indian chief, with twelve warriors, who had assembled here for the purpose of joining us.  The names of the warriors were as follows;--Santiago, Masua, Kiubu, Tocoso, Nonelo, Michael, Weala, Arkell, Nicolas, Heel, Kasheano, Estephen.  Our party coming up in the afternoon, we encamped here for the day, in order to give the Indians time to make further preparations for the march.  On the 18th we met, at the ford of the San Joaquin River, another party of eighteen Indians, including their chiefs.  Their names were--Jose&acute; Jesus, Filipe, Raymundo, and Carlos, chiefs; Huligario, Bonefasio, Francisco, Nicolas, Pablo, Feliciano, San Antonio, Polinario, Manuel, Graviano, Salinordio, Romero, and Merikeeldo, warriors.  The chiefs and some of the warriors of these parties were partially clothed, but most of them were naked, except a small garment around the loins.  They were armed with bows and arrows.  We encamped with our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>The next morning (Nov. 19), the river being too high to ford, we constructed, by the aid of the Indians, tule-boats, upon which our baggage was ferried over the stream.  The tule-boat consists of bundles of tule firmly bound together with willow withes.  When completed, in shape it is not unlike a small keel-boat.  The buoyancy of one of these craft is surprising.  Six men, as many as could sit upon the deck, were passed over, in the largest of our three boats, at a time.  The boats were towed backwards and forwards by Indian swimmers--one at the bow, and one at the stern as steersman, and two on each side as propellers.  The poor fellows, when they came out of the cold water, trembled as if attacked with an ague.  We encamped near the house of Mr. Livermore (previously described), where, after considerable difficulty, I obtained sufficient beef for supper, Mr. L. being absent.  Most of the Indians did not get into camp until a late hour of the night, and some of them not until morning.  They complained very much of sore feet, and wanted horses to ride, which I promised them as soon as they reached the Pueblo de San Jose&acute;.</P>
125.sgm:<P>About ten o'clock on the morning of the 20th, we slaughtered a beef in the hills between Mr. Livermore's and the mission of San Jose&acute;; and, leaving the hungry party to regale themselves upon it and then follow on, I proceeded immediately to the Pueblo de San Jose&acute; to make further arrangements, reaching that place just after sunset.  On the 21st I procured clothing for the Indians, which, when they arrived with Mr. Jacob in the afternoon, was distributed among them.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On my arrival at the Pueblo, I found the American population there much excited by intelligence just received of the capture on the 15th, between Monterey and the mission of San Juan, of Thos. O. Larkin, Esq., late U.S. Consul in California, by a party of Californians, and of an engagement between the same Californians and a party of Americans escorting a <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>The following additional particulars I extract from the "Californian" newspaper of November 21, 1846, published at Monterey: "Burroughs and Foster were killed at the first onset.  The Americans fired, and then charged on the enemy with their empty rifles, and ran them off.  However, they still kept rallying, and firing now and then a musket at the Americans until about eleven o'clock at night, when one of the Walla-Walla Indians offered his services to come into Monterey and give Colonel Fremont notice of what was passing.  Soon after he started he was pursued by a party of the enemy.  The foremost in pursuit drove a lance at the Indian, who, trying to parry it, received the lance through his hand; he immediately, with his other hand, seized his tomahawk, and struck his opponent, splitting his head from the crown to the mouth.  By this time the others had come up, and, with the most extraordinary dexterity and bravery, the Indian vanquished two more, and the rest ran away.  He rode on towards this town as far as his horse was able to carry him, and then left his horse and saddle, and came in on foot.  He arrived here about eight o'clock on Tuesday morning, December 17th.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The Americans engaged in this affair were principally the volunteer emigrants just arrived in the country, and who had left New Helvetia a few days in advance of me.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Colonel Fremont marched from Monterey as soon as he heard of this skirmish, in pursuit of the Californians, but did not meet with them.  He then encamped at the mission of San Juan, waiting there the arrival of the remaining volunteers from above.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Leaving the Pueblo on the afternoon of the 25th, in conjuction with a small force commanded by Captain Weber, we made an excursion into the hills, near a rancho owned by Captain W., where were herded some two or three hundred public horses.  It had been rumoured that a party of Californians were hovering about here, intending to capture and drive off these horses.  The next day (November 26th), without having met any hostile force, driving these horses before us, we encamped at Mr. Murphy's rancho.  Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>The mission of San Juan Bautista has been one of the most extensive of these establishments.  The principal buildings are more durably constructed than those of other missions I have visited, and they are in better condition.  Square bricks are used in paving the corridors and the ground floors.  During the twilight, I strayed accidentally through a half-opened gate into a cemetery, inclosed by a high wall in the rear of the church.  The spectacle was ghastly enough.  The exhumed skeletons of those who had been deposited here lay thickly strewn around, showing but little respect for the sanctity of the grave, or the rights of the dead from the living.  The cool damp night--breeze sighed and moaned through the shrubbery and ruinous arches and corridors, planted and reared by those whose neglected bones were now exposed to the rude insults of man and beast.  I could not but imagine that the voices of complaining spirits mingled with these dismal and mournful tones; and plucking a cluster of roses, the fragrance of which was delicious, I left the spot, to drive away the sadness and melancholy produced by the scene.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The valley contiguous to the mission is extensive, well watered by a large <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Colonel Fremont marched from San Juan this morning, and encamped, as we learned on our arrival, ten miles south.  Proceeding up the <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>California battalion--Their appearance and costume List of officers--Commence our march to Los Angeles--Appearance of the country in the vicinity of San Juan--Slaughter of beeves--Astonishing consumption of beef by the men--Beautiful morning--Ice--Salinas river and valley--Californian prisoners--Horses giving out from fatigue--Mission of San Miguel--Sheep--Mutton--March on foot--More prisoners taken--Death of Mr. Stanley--An execution--Dark night--Capture of the mission of San Luis Obispo--Orderly conduct and good deportment of the California battalion.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November</HI>
125.sgm: 30.--The battalion of mounted riflemen, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont, numbers, rank and file, including Indians, and servants, 428.  With the exception of the exploring party, which left the United States with Colonel F., they are composed of volunteers from the American settlers, and the emigrants who have arrived in the country within a few weeks.  The latter have generally furnished their own ammunition and other equipments for the expedition.  Most of these are practised riflemen, men of undoubted courage, and capable of bearing any fatigue and privations endurable by veteran troops.  The Indians are composed of a party of Walla-Wallas from Oregon, and a party of native Californians.  Attached to the battalion are two pieces of artillery, under the command of Lieutenant McLane, of the navy.  In the appearance of our small army there is presented but little of "the pomp and circumstance of glorious war."  There are no plumes nodding over brazen helmets, nor coats of broadcloth spangled with lace and buttons.  A broad-brimmed low-crowned hat, a shirt of blue flannel, or buckskin, with pantaloons and mocassins of the same, all generally much the worse for wear, and smeared with mud and dust, make up the costume of the party, officers as well as men.  A leathern girdle surrounds the waist, from which are suspended a bowie and a hunter's knife, and sometimes a brace of pistols.  These, with the rifle and holster-pistols, are the arms carried by officers and privates.  A single bugle (and a sorry one it is) composes the band.  Many an embryo Napoleon, in his own conceit, whose martial spirit has been excited to flaming intensity of heat by the peacock-plumaje and gaudy trappings of our militia <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:companies, when marching through the streets to the sound of drum, fife, and brass band, if he could have looked upon us, and then consulted the state of the military thermometer within him, would probably have discovered that the mercury of his heroism had fallen several degrees below zero.  He might even have desired that we should not come.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Between the wind and his nobility."<LB></HI>
125.sgm:<P>War, stripped of its pageantry, possesses but few of the attractions with which poetry and painting have embellished it.  The following is a list of the officers composing the California Battalion:--Lieut.--colonel J. G. Fremont, commanding; A. H. Gillespie, major; P. B. Reading, paymaster; H. King, commissary; J. R. Snyder, quartermaster, since appointed a land-surveyor by Colonel Mason; Wm. H. Russell, ordnance officer; T. Talbot, lieutenant and adjutant; J. J. Myers, sergeant-major, appointed lieutenant in January, 1847.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Company</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Company</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Company</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Company</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Company</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Company</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Company</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Company</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Artillery Company</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Officers on detached Service and doing Duty at the South</HI>
125.sgm:<P>After a march of six or eight hours, up the valley of the <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:, through a heavy rain, and mud so deep that several of our horses gave out from exhaustion, we encamped in a circular bottom, near a deserted adobe house.  A <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We did not move on the 1st and 2d of December.  There being no cattle in the vicinity of our camp, a party was sent back to the mission, on the morning of the 1st, who in the afternoon returned, driving before them about 100 head, most of them in good condition.  After a sufficient number were slaughtered to supply the camp with meat for the day, the remainder were confined in a <HI REND="italics">corral</HI>
125.sgm: prepared for the purpose, to be driven along with us, and slaughtered from day to day.  The rain has continued, with short intermissions, since we commenced our march on the 30th of November.  The ground has become saturated with water, and the small branches are swollen into large streams.  Notwithstanding these discomforts, the men are in good spirits, and enjoy themselves in singing, telling stories, and playing <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 3.--The rain ceased falling about 8 o'clock this morning; and, the clouds breaking away, the sun cheered us once more with his pleasant beams.  The battalion was formed into a hollow square, and, the order of the day being read, we resumed our march.  Our progress, through the deep mud, was very slow.  The horses were constantly giving out, and many were left behind.  The young and tender grass upon which they feed affords but little nourishment, and hard labour soon exhausts them.  We encamped on a low bluff, near the <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 4.--I was ordered with a small party in advance this morning.  Proceeding up the valley a few miles, we left it, crossing several steep hills sparsely timbered with oak, from which we descended into another small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Thirteen beeves are slaughtered every afternoon for the consumption of the battalion.  These beeves are generally of good size, and in fair condition.  Other provisions being entirely exhausted, beef constitutes the only subsistence for the men, and most of the officers.  Under these circumstances, the consumption of beef is astonishing.  I do not know that I shall be believed when I state a fact, derived from observation and calculation, that the average consumption per man of fresh beef is at least ten pounds per day.  Many of them, I believe, consume much more, and some of them less.  Nor does this quantity appear to be injurious to health, or fully to satisfy the appetite.  I have seen some of the men roast their meat and devour it by the fire from the hour of encamping until late bed-time.  They would then sleep until one or two o'clock in the morning, when, the cravings of hunger being greater than the desire for repose, the same occupation would be resumed, and continued until the order was given to march.  The Californian beef is generally fat, juicy, and tender, and surpasses in flavour any which I ever tasted elsewhere.  Distance 10 miles.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Our march to-day has been one of great difficulty, through a deep brushy mountain gorge, through which it was almost impossible to force the field-pieces.  In one place they were lowered with ropes down a steep and nearly perpendicular precipice of great height and depth.  We encamped about three o'clock, P.M., in a small valley.  Many of the horses gave out on the march, and were left behind by the men, who came straggling into camp until a late hour of the evening, bringing their saddles and baggage upon their shoulders.  I noticed, while crossing an elevated ridge of hills, flakes of snow flying in the air, but melting before they reached the ground.  The small spring-branch on which we encamped empties into the Salinas River.  The country surrounding us is elevated and broken, and the soil sandy, with but little timber or grass upon it.  Distance 12 miles.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 8.--Morning cool, clear, and pleasant.  Two Californians were arrested by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 9.--The mornings are cool, but the middle of the day is too warm to ride comfortably with our coats on.  Our march has been fatiguing and difficult, through several brushy ravines and over steep and elevated hills.  Many horses gave out as usual, and were left, from inability to travel.  Our <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 10.--Our march has been on the main beaten trail, dry and hard, and over a comparatively level country.  We passed the mission of San Miguel about three o'clock, and encamped in a grove of large oak timber, three or four miles south of it.  This mission is situated on the upper waters of the Salinas, in an extensive plain.  Under the administration of the <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Our stock of cattle being exhausted, we feasted on Californian mutton, sheep being more abundant than cattle at this mission.  The wool, I noticed, was coarse, but the mutton was of an excellent quality.  The country over which we have travelled to-day shows the marks of long drought previous to the recent rains.  The soil is sandy and gravelly, and the dead vegetation upon it is thin and stunted.  About eighty of our horses are reported to have given out and been left behind.  Distance 20 miles.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 12.--To relieve our horses, which are constantly giving out from exhaustion, the grass being insufficient for their sustenance while performing labour, the entire battalion, officers and men, were ordered to march on foot, turning their horses, with the saddles and bridles upon them, into the general <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm:, to be driven along by the horse-guard.  The day has been drizzly, cold, and disagreeable.  The country has a barren and naked appearance; but this, I believe, is attributable to the extreme drought that has prevailed in this region for one or two years past.  We encamped near the rancho of a friendly Californian--the man who was taken prisoner the other day and set at large.  An Indian, said to be the servant of Tortoria Pico, was captured here by the advance party.  A letter was found upon him, but the contents of which I never learned.  This being the first foot-march, there were, of course, many galled and blistered feet in the battalion.  My servant obtained, with some difficulty, from the Indians at the rancho, a pint-cup of <HI REND="italics">pinole</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 13.--A rainy disagreeable morning.  Mr. Stanley, one of the volunteers, and one of the gentlemen who so kindly supplied us with provisions on Mary's River, died last night.  He has been suffering from an attack of typhoid fever since the commencement of our march, and unable most of the time to sit upon his horse.  He was buried this morning in a small circular opening in the timber near our camp.  The battalion was formed in a hollow square surrounding the grave which had been excavated for the final resting-place of our deceased friend and comrade.  There was neither bier, nor coffin, nor pall-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Not a drum was heard, nor a funeral note."<LB></HI>
125.sgm:<P>The cold earth was heaped upon his mortal remains in silent solemnity, and the ashes of a braver or a better man will never repose in the lonely hills of California.</P>
125.sgm:<P>After the funeral the battalion was marched a short distance to witness another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:scene, not more mournful, but more harrowing than the last.  The Indian captured at the rancho yesterday was condemned to die.  He was brought from his place of confinement and tied to a tree.  Here he stood some fifteen or twenty minutes, until the Indians from a neighbouring <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
125.sgm:<P>A cold rain fell upon us during the entire day's march.  We encamped at four o'clock, P.M.; but the rain poured down in such torrents that it was impossible to light our camp-fires and keep them burning.  This continued nearly the whole night, and I have rarely passed a night more uncomfortably.  A scouting party brought in two additional prisoners this evening.  Another returned, and reported the capture of a number of horses, and the destruction of a rancho by fire.  Distance 12 miles.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 14.--The battalion commenced its march on foot and in a heavy rain.  The mud is very deep, and we have been compelled to wade several streams of considerable depth, being swollen by the recent rains.  At one o'clock a halt was ordered, and beef slaughtered and cooked for dinner.  The march was resumed late in the afternoon, and the plain surrounding the mission of San Luis Obispo was reached in the pitch darkness of the night, a family in the <HI REND="italics">canada</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The men composing the Californian battalion, as I have before stated, have been drawn from many sources, and are roughly clad, and weather-beaten in their exterior appearance; but I feel it but justice here to state my belief, that no military party ever passed through an enemy's country and observed the same strict regard for the rights of its population.  I never heard of an outrage, or even a trespass being committed by one of the American volunteers during our entire march.  Every American appeared to understand perfectly the duty which he owed to himself and others in this respect, and the deportment of the battalion might be cited as a model for imitation.  Distance 18 miles.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Tremendous rain--Mission of San Luis Obispo--Gardens--Various fruits--Farm--Cactus tuna--Calinche--Pumpkins--Trial of Tortoria Pico--Procession of women--Pico's pardon--Leave San Luis--Surf of the Pacific--Captain Dana--Tempestuous night--Mission of St. Ynes--Effects of drought--Horses exhausted--St. Ynes Mountain--View of the plain of Santa Barbara and the Pacific--A wretched Christmas-day--Descent of St. Ynes Mountain--Terrible storm--Frightful destruction of horses--Dark night What we are fighting for--Arrive at Santa Barbara--Town deserted.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Besides the main large buildings connected with the church, there are standing, and partially occupied, several small squares of adobe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:houses, belonging to this mission.  The heaps of mud, and crumbling walls outside of these, are evidence that the place was once of much greater extent, and probably one of the most opulent and prosperous establishments of the kind in the country.  The lands surrounding the mission are finely situated for cultivation and irrigation if necessary.  There are several large gardens, inclosed by high and substantial walls, which now contain a great variety of fruit-trees and shrubbery.  I noticed the orange, fig, palm, olive, and grape.  There are also large inclosures hedged in by the prickly-pear (cactus), which grows to an enormous size, and makes an impervious barrier against man or beast.  The stalks of some of these plants are of the thickness of a man's body, and grow to the height of fifteen feet.  A juicy fruit is produced by the prickly-pear, named <HI REND="italics">tuna</HI>
125.sgm:, from which a beverage is sometimes made, called <HI REND="italics">calinche</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 17.--Cool, with a hazy sky.  While standing in one of the corridors this morning, a procession of females passed by me, headed by a lady of fine appearance and dressed with remarkable taste and neatness, compared with those who followed her.  Their <HI REND="italics">rebosos</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 18.--Clear, with a delighful temperature.  Before the sun rose the grass was covered with a white frost.  The day throughout has been calm and beautiful.  A march of four miles brought us to the shore of a small indentation in the coast of the Pacific, where vessels can anchor, and boats can land when the wind is not too fresh.  The surf is now rolling and foaming with prodigious energy--breaking upon the beach in long lines one behind the other, and striking the shore like cataracts.  The hills and plains are verdant with a carpet of fresh grass, and the scattered live-oaks on all sides, appearing like orchards of fruit-trees, give to the country an old and cultivated aspect.  The mountains bench away on our left, the low hills rising in gentle conical forms, beyond which are the more elevated and precipitous peaks covered with snow.  We encamped about three o'clock near the rancho of Captain Dana, in a large and handsome valley well watered by an <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Captain Dana is a native of Massachusetts, and has resided in this country about thirty years.  He is known and esteemed throughout California for his intelligence and private virtues, and his unbounded generosity and hospitality.  I purchased here a few loaves of wheat bread, and distributed them among the men belonging to our company as far as they would go, a luxury which they have not indulged in since the commencement of the march.  Distance 15 miles.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 19.--The night was cold and tempestuous, with a slight fall of rain.  The clouds broke away after sunrise, and the day became warm and pleasant.  We continued our march up the valley, and encamped near its head.  The table-land and hills are generally gravelly, but appear to be productive of fine grass.  The soil of the bottom is of the richest and most productive composition.  We crossed in the course of the day a wide flat plain, upon which were grazing large herds of brood-mares ( <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
125.sgm: ) and cattle.  In the distance they resembled large armies approaching us.  The peaks of the elevated mountains in sight are covered with snow.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 20.--Parties were sent back this morning to gather up horses and baggage left on the march yesterday, and it was one o'clock before the rear-guard, waiting for the return of those, left camp.  The main body made a short march and encamped early, in a small hollow near the rancho of Mr. Faxon, through which flows an <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 21.--Clear and pleasant.  A foot march was ordered, with the exception of the horse and baggage guard.  We marched several miles through a winding hollow, passing a deserted rancho, and ascending with much labour a steep ridge of hills, descending which we entered a handsome valley, and encamped upon a small stream about four miles from the mission of St. Ynes.  The banks of the <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 22.--Clear and pleasant.  Being of the party which performed rear guard duty to-day, with orders to bring in all stragglers, we did not leave camp until several hours after the main body had left.  The horses of the <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm: and the pack-animals were continually giving out and refusing to proceed.  Parties of men, exhausted, lay down upon the ground, and it was with much urging, and sometimes with peremptory commands only, that they could be prevailed upon to proceed.  The country bears the same marks of drought heretofore described, but fresh vegetation is now springing up and appears vigorous.  A large horse-trail leading into one of the <HI REND="italics">canadas</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 23.--Rain fell steadily and heavily the entire day.  A small party of men was in advance.  Discovering in a brushy valley two Indians armed with bows and arrows, they were taken prisoners.  Learning from them that there was a <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm: of horses secreted in one of the <HI REND="italics">canadas</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm: 24.--Cloudy and cool, with an occasional sprinkling rain.  Our route to-day lay directly over the St. Ynes Mountain, by an elevated and most difficult pass.  The height of this mountain is several thousand feet.  We reached the summit about twelve o'clock, and, our company composing the advance-guard, we encamped about a mile and a half in advance of the main body of the battalion, at a point which overlooks the beautiful plain of Santa Barbara, of which, and the ocean beyond, we had a most extended and interesting view.  With the spy-glass, we could see, in the plain far below us, herds of cattle quietly grazing upon the green herbage that carpets its gentle undulations.  The plain is dotted with groves, surrounding the springs and belting the small water-courses, of which there are many flowing from this range of mountains.  Ranchos are scattered far up and down the plain, but not one human being could be seen stirring.  About ten or twelve miles to the south, the white towers of the mission of Santa Barbara raise themselves.  Beyond is the illimitable waste of waters.  A more lovely and picturesque landscape I never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December 25</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The officers and men belonging to the company having the cannon in charge laboured until nine or ten o'clock to bring them down the mountain, but they were finally compelled to leave them.  Much of the baggage also remained on the side of the mountain, with the pack-mules and horses conveying them, all efforts to force the animals down being fruitless.  The men continued to straggle into the camp until a late hour of the night;--some crept under the shelving rocks and did not come in until the next morning.  We were so fortunate as to find our tent, and after much difficulty pitched it under an oak-tree.  All efforts to light a fire and keep it blazing proving abortive, we spread our blankets upon the ground and endeavoured to sleep, although we could feel the cold streams of water running through the tent and between and around our bodies.</P>
125.sgm:<P>In this condition we remained until about two o'clock in the morning, when the storm having abated I rose, and shaking from my garments the dripping water, after many unsuccessful efforts succeeded in kindling a fire.  Near our tent I found three soldiers who had reached camp at a late hour.  They were fast asleep on the ground, the water around them being two or three inches deep; but they had taken care to keep their heads above water, by using a log of wood for a pillow.  The fire beginning to blaze freely, I dug a ditch with my hands and a sharp stick of wood, which drained off the pool surrounding the tent.  One of the men, when he felt the sensation consequent upon being "high and dry," roused himself, and, sitting upright, looked around for some time with an expression of bewildered amazement.  At length he seemed to realize the true state of the case, and exclaimed, in a tone of energetic soliloquy,--</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Well, who <HI REND="italics">wouldn't</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"You are mistaken," I replied.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Rubbing his eyes, he gazed at me with astonishment, as if having been entirely unconscious of my presence; but, reassuring himself, he said:</P>
125.sgm:<P>"How mistaken?"</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Why," I answered, "you are not fighting for California."</P>
125.sgm:<P>"What the d--l, then, am I fighting for?" he inquired.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"For TEXAS."</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Texas be d--d; but hurrah for General Jackson!" and with this exclamation he threw himself back again upon his wooden pillow, and was soon snoring in a profound slumber.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Making a platform composed of sticks of wood upon the soft mud, I stripped myself to the skin, wringing the water from each garment as I proceeded.  I then commenced drying them by the fire in the order that they were replaced upon my body, an employment <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm:<P>I visited the town before dark, but found the houses, with few exceptions, closed, and the streets deserted.  After hunting about some time, we discovered a miserable dwelling, occupied by a shoemaker and his family, open.  Entering it, we were very kindly received by its occupants, who, with a princely supply of civility, possessed but a beggarly array of comforts.  At our request they provided for us a supper of <HI REND="italics">tortillas, frijoles</HI>
125.sgm:, and stewed <HI REND="italics">carne</HI>
125.sgm: seasoned with <HI REND="italics">chile colorado</HI>
125.sgm:, for which, paying them <HI REND="italics">dos pesos</HI>
125.sgm: for four, we bade them good evening, all parties being well satisfied.  The family consisted, exclusive of the shoemaker, of a dozen women and children, of all ages.  The women, from the accounts they had received of the intentions of the Americans, were evidently unprepared for civil treatment from them.  They expected to be dealt with in a very barbarous manner, <HI REND="italics">in all respects</HI>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara--Picturesque situation--Fertility of the country--Climate--Population--Society--Leave Santa Barbara--Rincon--Grampus--Mission of St. Buenaventura--Fine gardens--Meet a party of mounted Californians--They retreat before us--Abundance of maize--Arrival of couriers from Com. Stockton--Effects of war upon the country--More of the enemy in sight--News of the capture of Los Angeles, by Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton--Mission of San Fernando--The Maguey--Capitulation of the Californians--Arrive at Los Angeles--General reflections upon the march--Meet with old acquaintances.</P>
125.sgm:<P>THE battalion remained encamped at Santa Barbara, from the 27th of December to the 3rd of January, 1847.  The U.S. flag was raised in the public square of the town the day after our arrival.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The town of Santa Barbara is beautifully situated for the picturesque, about one mile from the shore of a roadstead, which affords anchorage for vessels of any size, and a landing for boats in calm weather.  During stormy weather, or the prevalence of strong winds from the south-east, vessels, for safety, are compelled to stand out to sea.  A fertile plain extends some twenty or thirty miles up and down the coast, varying in breadth from two to ten miles, and bounded on the east by a range of high mountains.  The population of the town I should judge, from the number of houses, to be about 1200 souls.  Most of the houses are constructed of adobes, in the usual architectural style of Mexican buildings.  Some of them, however, are more Americanized, and have some pretensions to tasteful architecture, and comfortable and convenient interior arrangement.  Its commerce, I presume, is limited to the export of hides and tallow produced upon the surrounding plain; and the commodities received in exchange for these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>On the coast, a few miles above Santa Barbara, there are, I have been told, immense quantities of pure bitumen or mineral tar, which, rising in the ocean, has been thrown upon the shore by the waves, where in a concrete state, like resin, it has accumulated in inexhaustible masses.  There are, doubtless, many valuable minerals in the neighbouring mountains, which, when developed by enterprise, will add greatly to the wealth and importance of the town.  For intelligence, refinement, and civilization, the population, it is said, will compare advantageously with any in California.  Some old and influential Spanish families are residents of this place; but their <HI REND="italics">casas</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The climate, judging from the indications while we remained here, must be delightful, even in winter.  With the exception of one day, which was tempestuous, the temperature at night did not fall below 50&deg;, and during the day the average was between 60&deg; and 70&deg;.  The atmosphere was perfectly clear and serene, the weather resembling that of the pleasant days of April in the same latitude on the Atlantic side of the continent.  It is a peculiarity of the Mexicans that they allow no shade or ornamental trees to grow near their houses.  In none of the streets of the towns or missions throug which I have passed has there been a solitary tree standing.  I noticed very few horticultural attempts in Santa Barbara.  At the mission, about two miles distant, which is an extensive establishment and in good preservation, I was told that there were fine gardens, producing most of the varieties of fruits of the tropical and temperate climates.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Several Californians came into camp and offered to deliver themselves up.  They were permitted to go at large.  They represented that the Californian force at the south was daily growing weaker from dissensions and desertions.  The United States prize-schooner Julia arrived on the 30th, from which was landed a cannon for the use of the battalion.  It has, however, to be mounted on wheels, and the gear necessary for hauling it has to be made in the camp.  Reports were current in camp on the 31st, that the Californians intended to meet and fight us at San Buenaventura, about thirty miles distant.  On the 1st of January, the Indians of the mission and town celebrated new-year's day, by a procession, music, etc.  They marched from the mission to the town, and through most of the empty and otherwise silent streets.  Among the airs they played was "Yankee Doodle."</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm: 5.--The prize-schooner Julia was lying off in sight this morning, for the purpose of co-operating with us, should there be any attempt on the part of the enemy to interrupt the march of the battalion.  We reached the mission of San Buenaventura, and encamped a short distance from it at two o'clock.  Soon after, a small party of Californians exhibited <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Proceeding up the valley about seven miles from the mission, we discovered at a distance a party of sixty or seventy mounted Californians, drawn up in order on the bank of the river.  This, it was conjectured, might be only a portion of a much larger force stationed here, and concealed in a deep ravine which runs across the valley, or in the <HI REND="italics">canadas</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm: 8.--Another tempestuous day.  I do not remember ever to have experienced such disagreeable effects from the wind and the clouds of dust in which we were constantly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm:<P>As we march south there appears to be a larger supply of wheat, maize, beans, and barley in the granaries of the ranchos.  More attention is evidently given to the cultivation of the soil here than farther north, although neither the soil nor climate is so well adapted to the raising of crops.  The Californian spies have shown themselves at various times today, on the summits of the hills on our right.  Distance 12 miles.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm: 10.--Crossing the plain, we encamped, about two o'clock P.M., in the mouth of a <HI REND="italics">canada</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm: 11.--The battalion this morning was divided into two parties; the main-body, on foot, marching over a ridge of hills to the right of the road or trail; and the artillery, horses and baggage, with an advance-guard and escort, marching by the direct route.  We found the pass narrow, and easily to be defended by brave and determined men against a greatly superior force; but when we had mounted the summit of the ridge there was no enemy, nor the sign of one, in sight.  Descending into a <HI REND="italics">canada</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Emerging from the hills, the advance party to which I was attached met two Californians, bareheaded, riding in great haste.  They stated that they were from the mission of San Fernando; that the Californian forces had met the American forces under the command of General Kearny and Commodore Stockton, and had been defeated after two days' fighting; and that the Americans had yesterday marched into Los Angeles.  They requested to be conducted immediately to Colonel Fremont, which request was complied with.  A little farther on we met a Frenchman, who stated that he was the bearer of a letter from General Kearny, at Los Angeles, to Colonel Fremont.  He confirmed the statement we had just heard, and was permitted to pass.  Continuing our march, we entered the mission of San Fernando at one o'clock and in about two hours the main body arrived, and the whole battalion encamped in the mission buildings.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The buildings and gardens belonging to this mission are in better condition than those of any of these establishments I have seen.  There are two extensive gardens, surrounded by high walls; and a stroll through them afforded a most delightful contrast from the usually uncultivated landscape we have been travelling through for so long a time.  Here were brought together most of the fruits and many of the plants of the temperate and tropical climates.  Although not the season of flowers, still the roses were in bloom.  Oranges, lemons, figs, and olives hung upon the trees, and the blood--red <HI REND="italics">tuna</HI>
125.sgm:, or pricky-pear, looked very tempting.  Among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:plants I noticed the American aloe ( <HI REND="italics">argave Americana</HI>
125.sgm: ), which is otherwise called <HI REND="italics">maguey</HI>
125.sgm:.  From this plant, when it attains maturity, a saccharine liquor is extracted, which is manufactured into a beverage called <HI REND="italics">pulque</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The mission of San Fernando is situated at the head of an extensive and very fertile plain, judging from the luxuriance of the grass and other vegetation now springing up.  I noticed in the granary from which our horses were supplied with food many thousand bushels of corn.  The ear is smaller than that of the corn of the Southern States.  It resembles the maize cultivated in the Northern States, the kernel being hard and polished.  Large herds of cattle and sheep were grazing upon the plain in sight of the mission.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm:<P>ARTICLES OF CAPITULATION,</P>
125.sgm:<P>Made and entered into at the Ranch of Couenga, this thirteenth day of January, eighteen hundred and forty-seven, between P. B. Reading, major; Louis M`Lane, junr., commanding 3rd Artillery; William H. Russell, ordnance officer--commissioners appointed by J. C. Fremont, Colonel United States Army, and Military Commandant of California; and Jose&acute; Antonio Carillo, commandant esquadron; Augustin Olivera, deputado--commissioners appointed by Don Andres Pico, Commander-in-chief of the Californian forces under the Mexican flag.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Article 1st.  The Commissioners on the part of the Californians agree that their entire force shall, on presentation of themselves to Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont, deliver up their artillery and public arms, and that they shall return peaceably to their homes, conforming to the laws and regulations of the United States, and not again take up arms during the war between the United States and Mexico, but will assist and aid in placing the country in a state of peace and tranquility.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Art. 2nd.  The Commissioners on the part of Lieutenant-Colonel Fremont agree and bind themselves, on the fulfilment of the 1st Article by the Californians, that they shall be guaranteed protection of life and property, whether on parole or otherwise.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Article 3rd.  That until a Treaty of Peace be made and signed between the United States of North America and the Republic of Mexico, no Californian or other Mexican citizen shall be bound to take the oath of allegiance.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Article 4th.  That any Californian or citizen of Mexico, desiring, is permitted by this capitulation to leave the country without let or hinderance.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Article 5th.  That, in virtue of the aforesaid articles, equal rights and privileges are vouchsafed to every citizen of California, as are enjoyed by the citizens of the United States of North America.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Article 6th.  All officers, citizens, foreigners or others, shall receive the protection guaranteed by the 2nd Article.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Article 7th.  This capitulation is intended to be no bar in effecting such arrangements as may in future be in justice required by both parties.</P>
125.sgm:<P>ADDITIONAL ARTICLE.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Ciudad de Los Angeles, Jan. 16th, 1847.</P>
125.sgm:<P>That the paroles of all officers, citizens and others, of the United States, and naturalized citizens of Mexico, are by this foregoing capitulation cancelled, and every condition of said paroles, from and after this date, are of no further force and effect, and all prisoners of both parties are hereby released.</P>
125.sgm:<P>P. B. READING, Maj. Cal'a. Battalion.</P>
125.sgm:<P>LOUIS M`LANE, Com'd. Artillery.</P>
125.sgm:<P>WM. H. RUSSELL, Ordnance Officer.</P>
125.sgm:<P>JOSE ANTONIO CARILLO, Comd't. of Squadron.</P>
125.sgm:<P>AUGUSTIN OLIVERA, Deputado.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Approved,</P>
125.sgm:<P>J. C. FREMONT, Lieut.-Col. U.S. Army, and Military Commandant of California.</P>
125.sgm:<P>ANDRES PICO, Commandant of Squadron and Chief of the National Forces of California.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The next morning a brass howitzer was brought into camp, and delivered.  What other arms were given up I cannot say, for I saw none.  Nor can I speak as to the number of Californians who were in the field under the command of Andres Pico when the articles of capitulation were signed, for they were never in sight of us after we reached San Fernando.  Distance 12 miles.</P>
125.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm:<P>A more miserably clad, wretchedly provided, and unprepossessing military host, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>We had now arrived at the abode of the <HI REND="italics">celestials</HI>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>City of Angels--Gardens--Vineyards--Produce of the vine in California--General products of the country--Reputed personal charms of the females of Los Angeles--San Diego--Gold and quicksilver mines--Lower California--Bituminous springs--Wines--A Kentuckian among the angels--Missions of San Gabriel and San Luis Rey--Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton leave for San Diego--Col. Fremont appointed Governor of California by Com. Stockton--Com. Shubrick's arrival--Insurrection in the northern part of California suppressed--Arrival of Col. Cooke at San Diego.</P>
125.sgm:<P>LA CIUDAD DE LOS ANGELES is the largest town in California, containing between fifteen hundred and two thousand inhabitants.  Its streets are laid out without any regard to regularity.  The buildings are generally constructed of adobes one and two stories high, with flat roofs.  The public buildings are a church, quartel, and government house.  Some of the dwelling-houses are frames, and large.  Few of them, interiorly or exteriorly, have any pretensions to architectural taste, finish, or covenience of plan and arrangement.  The town is situated about 20 miles from the ocean, in a extensive undulating plain, bounded on the north by a ridge of elevated hills, on the east by high mountains whose summits are now covered with snow, on the west by the ocean, and stretching to the south and the south-east as far as the eye can reach.  The Rio St. Gabriel flows near the town.  This stream is skirted with numerous vineyards and gardens, inclosed by willow hedges.  The gardens produce a great variety of tropical fruits and plants.  The yield of the vineyards is very abundant; and a large quantity of wines of a good quality and flavour, and <HI REND="italics">aguardie&acute;nte</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We found in Los Angeles an abundance of maize, wheat, and <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
125.sgm:, showing that the surrounding country is highly productive of these important articles of subsistence.  There are no mills, however, in this vicinity, the universal practice of Californian families being to grind their corn by hand; and consequently flour and bread are very scarce, and not to be obtained in any considerable quantities.  The only garden vegetables which I saw while here were onions, potatoes, and <HI REND="italics">chile colorado</HI>
125.sgm:, or red pepper, which enters very largely into the <HI REND="italics">cuisine</HI>
125.sgm:<P>While I remained at Los Angeles, I boarded with two or three other officers at the house of a Mexican Californian, the late alcalde of the town, whose political functions had ceased.  He was a thin, delicate, amiable, and very polite gentleman, treating us with much courtesy, for which we paid him, when his bill was presented, a very liberal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:compensation.  In the morning we were served, on a common deal table, with a cup of coffee and a plate of <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
125.sgm:.  At eleven o'clock, a more substantial meal was provided, consisting of stewed beef, seasoned with <HI REND="italics">chile colorado</HI>
125.sgm:, a rib of roasted beef, and a plate of <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
125.sgm: with <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The town being abandoned by most of its population, and especially by the better class of the female portion of it, those who remained, which I saw, could not, without injustice, be considered as fair specimens of <HI REND="italics">the angels</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The bay of San Pedro, about twenty-five miles south of Los Angeles, is the port of the town.  The bay affords a good anchorage for vessels of any size; but it is not a safe harbour at all times, as I have been informed by experienced nautical men on this coast.  San Gabriel River empties into the bay.  The mission of San Gabriel is about twelve miles east of Los Angeles.  It is represented as an extensive establishment of this kind, the lands surrounding and belonging to it being highly fertile.  The mission of San Luis Rey is situated to the south, about midway between Los Angeles and San Diego.  This mission, according to the descriptions which I have received of it, is more substantial and tasteful in its construction than any other in the country; and the gardens and grounds belonging to it are now in a high state of cule&acute;tivation.</P>
125.sgm:<P>San Diego is the most southern town in Upper California.  It is situated on the Bay of San Diego, in latitude 33&deg; north.  The country back of it is described by those who have travelled through it as sandy and arid, and incapable of supporting any considerable population.  There are, however, it is reported on authority regarded as reliable, rich mines of quicksilver, copper, gold, and coal, in the neighbourhood, which, if such be the fact, will before long render the place one of considerable importance.  The harbour, next to that of San Francisco, is the best on the Pacific coast of North America, between the Straits of Fuca and Acapulco.</P>
125.sgm:<P>For the following interesting account of Lower California I am indebted to Rodman M. Price, Esq., purser of the U.S. sloop-of-war Cyane, who has been connected with most of the important events which have recently taken place in Upper and Lower California, and whose observations and opinions are valuable and reliable.  It will be seen that the observations of Mr. Price differ materially from the generally received opinions in reference to Lower California.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Burlington, N.J., June 7, 1848.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Dear Sir,--It affords me pleasure to give you all the information I have about Lower California, derived from personal observation at several of its ports that I have visited, in the U. S. ship Cyane, in 1846-47.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Cape St. Lucas, the southern extremity of the peninsula of Lower California, is in lat. 22&deg; 45' N., has a bay that affords a good harbour and anchorage, perfectly safe nine months in the year; but it is open to the eastward, and the hurricanes which sometimes occur during July, August, and September, blow the strongest from the southeast, so that vessels will not venture in the bay during the hurricane season.  I have landed twice at the Cape in a small boat, and I think a breakwater can be built, at small cost, so as to make a safe harbour at all seasons.  Stone can be obtained with great ease from three cones of rocks rising from the sea, and forming the extreme southerly point of the Cape, called the Frayles.  Looking to the future trade and commerce of the Pacific Ocean, this great headland must become a most important point as a depo&circ;t for coal and merchandise, and a most convenient location for vessels trading on that coast to get their supplies.  Mr. Ritchie, now residing there, supplies a large number of whale-ships that cruise off the Cape, annually, with fresh provisions, fruits, and water.  The supplies are drawn from the valley of San Jose&acute; twenty miles north of the Cape, as the land in its immediate vicinity is mountainous and sterile; but the valley of San Jose&acute; is extensive and well cultivated, producing the greatest variety <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:of vegetables and fruits.  The sweet and Irish potato, tomato, cabbage, lettuce, beans, peas, beets, and carrots are the vegetables; oranges, lemons, bananas, plantains, figs, dates, grapes, pomegranates, and olives are its fruits.  Good beef and mutton are cheap.  A large amount of sugar-cane is grown, from which is made <HI REND="italics">panoche</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Panoche</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"I cannot dismiss the valley of San Jose&acute;, from which the crew of the Cyane have drawn so many luxuries, without alluding to the never-failing stream of excellent water that runs through it (to which it owes its productiveness) and empties into the Gulf here, and is easily obtained for shipping when the surf is low.  It is now frequented by some of our whale ships, and European vessels bound to Mazatlan with cargoes usually stop here to get instructions from their consignees before appearing off the port; but vessels do not anchor during the three hurricane months.  The view from seaward, up this valley, is beautiful indeed, being surrounded by high barren mountains, which is the general appearance of the whole peninsula, and gives the impression that the whole country is without soil, and unproductive.  When your eye gets a view of this beautiful, fertile, cultivated, rich, green valley, producing all the fruits and vegetables of the earth, Lower California stock rises.  To one that has been at sea for months, on salt grub, the sight of this bright spot of cultivated acres, with the turkeys, ducks, chickens, eggs, vegetables, and fruit, makes him believe the country an <HI REND="italics">Eldorado</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"Pearl-fishing is the chief employment of the inhabitants about the bay, and the pearls are said to be of superior quality.  I was shown a necklace, valued at two thousand dollars, taken in this water.  They are all found by diving.  The <HI REND="italics">Yake</HI>
125.sgm: Indians are the best divers, going down in eight-fathom water.  The pearl shells are sent to China, and are worth, at La Paz, one dollar and a half the <HI REND="italics">arroba</HI>
125.sgm:, or twenty-five pounds.  Why it is a submarine diving apparatus has not been employed in this fishery, with all its advantages over Indian diving, I cannot say.  Yankee enterprise has not yet reached this new world.  I cannot say this either, as a countryman of ours, Mr. Davis, living at Loretta, has been a most successful pearl-fisher, employing more Indians than any one else engaged in the business.  I am sorry to add that he has suffered greatly by the war.  The country about La Paz is a good grazing country, but very dry.  The mountains in the vicinity are said to be very rich in minerals.  Some silver mines near San Antonio, about forty miles south, are worked, and produce well.  La Paz may export one hundred thousand dollars a-year of <HI REND="italics">platapina</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"The island of Carmen, lying in front of Loretta, has a large salt lake, which has a solid salt surface of several feet thickness.  The salt is of good quality, is cut out like ice, and it could supply the world.  It has heretofore been a monopoly to the governor of Lower California, who employed convicts to get out the salt and put it on the beach ready for shipping.  It is carried about a quarter of a mile, and is sent to Mazatlan and San Blas.  A large quantity of salt is used in producing silver.  To the north of Muleje, which is nearly opposite Guymas, the gulf is so much narrower that it is a harbour itself.  No accurate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"On the Pacific coast of the peninsula there is the great Bay of Magdalena, which has fine harbours, but no water, provisions, or inhabitants.  Its shores are high barren mountains, said to possess great mineral wealth.  A fleet of whale-ships have been there during the winter months of the last two years, for a new species of whale that are found there, represented as rather a small whale, producing forty or fifty barrels of oil; and, what is most singular, I was assured, by most respectable whaling captains, that the oil is a good paint-oil (an entire new quality for fish-oil).  Geographically and commercially, Lower California must become very valuable.  It will be a constant source of regret to this country, that it is not included in the treaty of peace just made with Mexico.  We have held and governed it during the war, and the boundary of Upper California cuts the head of the Gulf of California, so that Lower California is left entirely disconnected with the Mexican territory.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Cape St. Lucas is the great headland of the Pacific Ocean, and is destined to be the Gibraltar and entrepot of that coast, or perhaps La Paz may be preferred, on account of its superior harbour.  As a possession to any foreign power, I think Lower California more valuable than the group of the Sandwich Islands.  It has as many arable acres as that group of islands, with rich mines, pearl-fishing, fine bays and harbours, with equal health, and all their productions.  As a country, it is dry, mountainous, and sterile, yet possessing many fine valleys like San Jose&acute;, as the old mission establishments indicate.  I have heard Todas Santos, Commondee, Santa Guadalupe, and others, spoken of as being more extensive, and as productive as San Jose&acute;.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"I am, most faithfully and truly, yours,</P>
125.sgm:<P>"RODMAN M. PRICE."</P>
125.sgm:<P>In the vicinity of Los Angeles there are a number of warm springs which throw out and deposit large quantities of bitumen or mineral tar.  This substance, when it cools, becomes hard and brittle like resin.  Around some of these springs many acres of ground are covered with this deposit to the depth of several feet.  It is a principal material in the roofing of houses.  When thrown upon the fire, it ignites immediately, emitting a smoke like that from turpentine, and an odour like that from bituminous coal.  This mineral, so abundant in California, may one day become a valuable article of commerce.</P>
125.sgm:<P>There are no reliable statistics in California.  The traveller is obliged to form his estimate of matters and things chiefly from his own observation.  You can place but little reliance upon information derived from the population, even when they choose to answer your questions; and most generally the response to your inquiries is--" <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
125.sgm:?"  (who knows?)  No Californian troubles his brains about these matters.  The quantity of wines and <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
125.sgm: produced by the vineyards and distilleries, at and near Los Angeles, must be considerable--basing my estimate upon the statement of Mr. Wolfskill, an American gentleman residing here, and whose house and vineyard I visited.  Mr. W.'s vineyard is young, and covers about forty acres of ground, the number of vines being 4,000 or 5,000.  From the produce of these, he told me, that last year he made 180 casks of wine, and the same quantity of <HI REND="italics">aguardie&acute;nte</HI>
125.sgm:.  A cask here is sixteen gallons.  When the vines mature, their produce will be greatly increased.  Mr. W.'s vineyard is doubtless a model of its kind.  It was a delightful recreation to stroll through it, and among the tropical fruit-trees bordering its walks.  His house, too, exhibited an air of cleanliness and comfort, and a convenience of arrangement not often met with in this country.  He set out for our refreshment three or four specimens of his wines, some of which would compare favourably with the best French and Madeira wines.  The <HI REND="italics">aguardie&acute;nte</HI>
125.sgm: and peach-brandy, which I tasted, of his manufacture, being mellowed by age, were of an excellent flavour.  The quantity of wine and <HI REND="italics">aguardie&acute;nte</HI>
125.sgm:<P>It was not possible to obtain at Los Angeles a piece of woollen cloth sufficiently large for a pair of pantaloons, or a pair of shoes, which would last a week.  I succeeded, after searching through all the shops of the town, in procuring some black cotton velvet, for four yards of which I paid the sum of 12 dollars.  In the United States the same article would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Among the houses I visited while here, was that of Mr. Pryor, an American, and a native of Louisville, Ky.  He has been a resident of the country between twenty and thirty years, but his Kentucky manners, frankness, and hospitality still adhere to him.</P>
125.sgm:<P>I remained at Los Angeles from the 14th to the 29th of January.  During this time, with the exception of three days, the weather and temperature were pleasant.  It rained one day, and during two days the winds blew strong and cold from the north-west.  The nights are cool, but fires are not requisite to comfort.  The snow-clad mountains, about twenty-five or thirty miles to the east of us, contrast singularly with the brilliant fresh verdure of the plain.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On the 18th of January General Kearny, with the dragoons, left for San Diego.  There was understood to be a difference between General Kearny and Commodore Stockton, and General Kearny and Colonel Fremont, in regard to their respective powers and duties; which, as the whole subject has subsequently undergone a thorough investigation, and the result made public, it is unnecessary for me to allude to more particularly.  I did not converse with General Kearny while he was at Los Angeles, and consequently possessed no other knowledge of his views and intentions, or of the powers with which he had been invested by the President, than what I derived from report.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On the 19th, Commodore Stockton and suite, with a small escort, left for San Diego.  Soon after his departure the battalion was paraded, and the appointment of Colonel Fremont as govenor of California, and Colonel W. H. Russell, as secretary of state, by Commodore Stockton, was read to them by Colonel Russell.  It was announced, also, that, although Colonel Fremont had accepted the office of chief civil magistrate of California, he would still retain his military office, and command the battalion as heretofore.</P>
125.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>A list of the expedition which marched from San Francisco is given as follows:--Captain Ward Marston, commandant; Assistant-surgeon J. Duval, aide-de-camp.  A detachment of United States marines, under command of Lieutenant Tansil, thirty-four men; artillery, consisting of one field-piece, under the charge of Master William F. De Iongh, assisted by Mid. John M. Kell, ten men; Interpreter John Pray; mounted company of San Jose&acute; volunteers, under command of Captain C. M. Weber, Lieutenant John Murphy, and acting Lieutenant John Reed, thirty-three men; mounted company of Yerba Buena volunteers, under command of Captain William M. Smith, Lieutenant John Rose, with a small detachment under Captain J. Martin, twelve men.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Thus ended the insurrections, if resistance against invasion can properly be so called, in Upper California.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On the 20th January, the force of sailors and marines which had marched with Commodore Stockton and General Kearny left Los Angeles, to embark at San Pedro for San Diego.  On the 21st a national salute was fired by the artillery company belonging to the battalion, in honour of Governor Fremont.  On the 22nd, letters were received from San Diego, stating that Colonel Cooke, who followed General Kearny from Santa Fe&acute; with a force of four hundred Mormon volunteers, had reached the neighbourhood of that place.  Having applied for my discharge from the battalion as soon as we reached Los Angeles, I received it on the 29th, on which day, in company with Captain Hastings, I set out on my return to San Francisco, designing to leave that place on the first favourable opportunity for the United States.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Leave Los Angeles for San Francisco--Don Andres Pico--A Californian returning from the wars--Domestic life at a rancho--Women in favour of peace--Hospitable treatment--Fandango--Singular custom--Arrive at Santa Barbara--Lost in a fog--Valley of the Salinas--Californians wanting Yankee wives--High waters--Arrive at San Francisco.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We left Los Angeles late in the afternoon of the 29th of January, with two Indian vaqueros, on miserable broken-down horses (the best we could obtain), and encamped at the deserted rancho at the foot of Couenga plain, where the treaty of peace had been concluded.  After we had been here some time, two Indians came to the house, who had been sent by the proprietor of the rancho to herd the cattle.  Having nothing to eat with us, a tempting offer prevailed upon the Indians to milk one of the cows; and we made our supper and our breakfast next morning on milk.  Both of our Indian vaqueros deserted in the night, carrying with them sundry articles of clothing placed in their charge.  A few days have made a great change in the appearance of the country.  The fresh grass is now several inches in height, and many flowers are in bloom.  The sky is bright, and the temperature is delightful.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On the 30th of January, leaving the mission of San Fernando on our right, at a distance of eight or ten miles, we followed the usually travelled trail next to the hills, on the western side of the plain.  As we were passing near a rancho, a well-dressed Californian rode out to us, and, after examining the horses of our miserable <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm:, politely claimed one of them as his property.  He was told that the horse was drawn from the public <HI REND="italics">caballada</HI>
125.sgm:, at Los Angeles, and could not be given up.  This seemed to satisfy him.  After some further conversation, he informed us, that he was Don Andres Pico, the late leader and general of the Californians.  The expression of his countenance is intelligent and prepossessing, and his address and manners courteous and pleasing.  Shaking hands, and bidding us a very earnest <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We were soon after overtaken by a young Californian, who appeared at first rather doubtful whether or not he should make our acquaintance.  The ice being broken, however, he became very loquacious and communicative.  He stated that he was returning to his home near Santa Barbara, from the wars, in which he had been engaged against his will.  The language that he used was, that he, with many others of his acquaintances, were forced to take up arms by the leading men of the country.  He was in the two battles of the 8th and 9th of January, below Los Angeles; and he desired never to be in any more battles.  He was heartily rejoiced that there was peace, and hoped that there would never be any more wars.  He travelled along with us until afternoon, when he fell behind, and we did not see him again until the next day.</P>
125.sgm:<P>After passing two or three deserted houses, we reached an inhabited rancho, situated at the extremity of a valley, and near a narrow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:gorge in the hills, about four o'clock, and, our jaded animals performing duty with reluctance, we determined to halt for the night, if the prospect of obtaining anything to eat (of which we stood in much need) was flattering.  Riding up to the house, a small adobe, with one room, and a shed for a kitchen, the <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
125.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">ranchera</HI>
125.sgm: came out and greeted us with a hearty " <HI REND="italics">Buena tardes, Senores, paisanos amigos</HI>
125.sgm:," shaking hands, and inviting us at the same time to alight and remain for the night, which invitation we accepted.  The kind-hearted <HI REND="italics">ranchera</HI>
125.sgm: immediately set about preparing supper for us.  An Indian <HI REND="italics">muchacha</HI>
125.sgm:, was seated at the <HI REND="italics">metate</HI>
125.sgm: (handmill), which is one of the most important articles of the Californian culinary apparatus.  While the <HI REND="italics">muchacha</HI>
125.sgm: ground, or rather crushed, the wheat between the stones, the <HI REND="italics">ranchera</HI>
125.sgm:, with a platter-shaped basket, cleansed it of dust, chaff, and all impure particles, by tossing the grain in the basket.  The flour being manufactured and sifted through a <HI REND="italics">cedazo</HI>
125.sgm:, or coarse sieve, the labour of kneading the dough was performed by the <HI REND="italics">muchacha</HI>
125.sgm:.  An iron plate was then placed over a rudely-constructed furnace, and the dough, being beaten by hand into <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
125.sgm: (thin cakes), was baked upon this.  What would American housewives say to such a system as this?  The viands being prepared, they were set out upon a small table, at which we were invited to seat ourselves.  The meal consisted of <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
125.sgm:, stewed jerk beef, with <HI REND="italics">chile</HI>
125.sgm: seasoning, milk, and <HI REND="italics">quesadillas</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Our host and hostess were very inquisitive in regard to the news from below, and as to what would be the effects of the conquest of the country by the Americans.  The man stated that he and all his family had refused to join in the late insurrection.  We told them that all was peaceable now; that there would be no more wars is California; that we were all Americans, all Californians-- <HI REND="italics">hermanos, hermanas, amigos</HI>
125.sgm:<P>We asked the woman how much the dress which she wore, a miserable calico, cost her?  She answered, " <HI REND="italics">seis pesos</HI>
125.sgm: " (six dollars).  When we told her that in a short time, under the American government, she could purchase as good a one " <HI REND="italics">por un peso</HI>
125.sgm:," she threw up her hands in astonishment, expressing by her features at the same time the most unbounded delight.  Her entire wardrobe was soon brought forth, and the price paid for every article named.  She then inquired what would be the cost of similar clothing under the American government, which we told her.  As we replied, exclamation followed upon exclamation, expressive of her suprise and pleasure, and the whole was concluded with " <HI REND="italics">Viva los Americannos--viva los Americanos</HI>
125.sgm:<P>In the evening several of the brothers, sisters, and brothers and sisters-in-law of the family collected, and the guitar and violin, which were suspended from a beam in the house, were taken down, and we were entertained by a concert of instrumental and vocal music.  Most of the tunes were such as are performed at fandangos.  Some plaintive airs were played and sung with much pathos and expression, the whole party joining in the choruses.  Although invited to occupy the only room in the house, we declined it, and spread our blankets on the outside.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The next morning (January 31st), when we woke, the sun was shining bright and warm, and the birds were singing gayly in the grove of evergreen oaks near the house.  Having made ready to resume our journey, as delicately as possible we offered our kind hostess compensation for the trouble we had given her, which she declined, saying, that although they were not rich, they nevertheless had enough and to spare.  We however insisted, and she finally accepted, with the condition that we would also accept of some of her <HI REND="italics">quesadillas</HI>
125.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
125.sgm: to carry along with us.  The ranchero mounted his horse and rode with us about three or four miles, to place us on the right trail, when, after inviting us very earnestly to call and see him again, and bidding us an affectionate <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Travelling over a hilly country, and passing the ruins of several deserted ranchos, the grounds surrounding which were strewn with the bones of slaughtered cattle, we reached, about five o'clock P.M., a cluster of houses in the valley of Santa Clara River, ten miles east of the mission of San Buenaventura.  Here we stopped at the house of a man named Sanchez.  Our arrival was thought to be worthy of notice, and it was accordingly celebrated in the evening by a fandango given at one of the houses, to which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Among the <HI REND="italics">senoritas</HI>
125.sgm:<P>A singular custom prevails at these fandangos.  It is this: during the intervals between the waltzes, quadrilles, and other dances, when the company is seated, a young lady takes the floor <HI REND="italics">solus</HI>
125.sgm:, and, after showing off her graces for general observation a few minutes, she approaches any gentleman she may select, and performs a variety of pirouettes and other Terpsichorean movements before him for his especial amusement and admiration, until he places on her head his hat or cap, as the case may be, when she dances away with it.  The hat or cap has afterwards to be redeemed by some present, and this usually is in money.  Not dancing ourselves, we were favoured with numerous special exhibitions of this kind, the cost of each of which was <HI REND="italics">un peso</HI>
125.sgm:.  With a long journey before us, and with purses in a nearly collapsed condition, the drafts upon us became so frequent, that at an early hour, under a plea of fatigue and want of rest, we thought it prudent to beat a retreat, leaving our fair and partial <HI REND="italics">fandangueras</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Our host accompanied us to our lodgings on the opposite side of the way.  Beds were spread down under the small porch outside, and we laid our bodies upon them, but not to sleep, for the noise of the fandango dancers kept us awake until broad daylight, at which time it broke up.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Hiring fresh horses here, and a vaquero to drive our tired animals after us, we started about 9 o'clock in the morning, and, passing through San Buenaventura, reached Santa Barbara, 45 miles, a little after two in the afternoon.  We stopped at the house of Mr. Sparks, who received us with genuine hospitality.  Santa Barbara presented a more lively appearance than when we passed here on our way down, most of its population having returned to their homes.  Procuring fresh but miserably poor horses, we resumed our journey on the afternoon of the 2nd of February, and encamped at the rancho of Dr. Den, situated on the plain of Santa Barbara, near the sea shore.  The soil of this plain is of the most fertile composition.  The fresh grass is now six or eight inches high, and the varieties are numerous.  Many of the early flowers are in bloom.  I noticed a large wheat field near the house, and its appearance was such as to promise a rich harvest.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The rain fell heavily on the morning of the 3rd, but continuing our journey we crossed the St. Ynes Mountain, and, passing the mission by that name, reached the rancho of Mr. Faxon after dark, where we halted for the night.  Around the mission of St. Ynes I noticed, as we passed, immense quantities of cattle bones thickly strewn in all directions.  Acres of ground were white with these remains of the immense herds belonging to this mission in the days of its prosperity, slaughtered for their hides and tallow.  We met two or three elegantly dressed Californians to-day, who accosted us with much civility and apparent friendliness.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Mr. Faxon is an Englishman by birth, and has resided in California about thirty years.  He is married to a Californian lady, and has a family of interesting and beautiful children.  A large portion of the land belonging to his rancho is admirably adapted to agriculture, and he raises crops of corn and vegetables as well as wheat without irrigation.  He informed me that the yield of wheat on his rancho was fully seventy bushels to the acre.  Mr. F. showed me specimens of lead ore from which he moulds his bullets, taken from an inexhaustible mine in the Tular Valley, some fifty miles distant from this.  It is certainly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>About noon on the 4th, we halted at the rancho of Captain Dana, where we procured fresh horses, leaving our wretchedly lean and tired animals, and, proceeding on, stopped for the night at the rancho of Mr. Branch, an intelligent American, originally from the state of New York, who has been settled in the country a number of years.  His rancho is situated on what is called the <HI REND="italics">arroyo grande</HI>
125.sgm:<P>Our horses straying, it was twelve o'clock on the 5th before we found them.  The rain had fallen steadily and heavily all night, and during the forenoon, and was pouring down when we started.  We passed through the mission of San Luis Obispo just before sunset, intending to halt at a rancho about three miles distant in <HI REND="italics">canada</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The next morning (Feb. 6), in hunting up our loose horses, we discovered the house about half a mile distant from our camp.  Continuing our journey, we halted about nine o'clock at a rancho near the ruins of Santa Margarita.  A solitary Indian was the only occupant of the house, and only inhabitant of the place; and he could furnish us with no food.  Passing two or three other deserted ranchos, we reached the house of a Mexican about one o'clock, where we obtained a meal of fried eggs and <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
125.sgm:, after having been without food thirty hours.  Late in the afternoon we arrived at the mission of San Miguel, now occupied by an Englishman named Reed, his <HI REND="italics">mestiza</HI>
125.sgm: wife, and one child, with two or three Indian vaqueros.  Crossing the Salinas in the morning (Feb. 7), we continued down its eastern side, and encamped in a wide bottom under a large live oak.  A <HI REND="italics">quesadilla</HI>
125.sgm:<P>On the 8th we continued down the eastern bank of the Salinas, passing through several large and fertile bottoms, and reaching the rancho of San Lorenzo about twelve o'clock.  This rancho, as we learned from the proprietors, is owned by two bachelor brothers, one of whom told me that he had not been off his lands but once or twice for several years.  Large herds of fat cattle and horses were grazing upon the luxuriant grasses of the plain, and there were several extensive inclosures sowed in wheat, which presented all the indications of an abundant harvest.  But, with all these natural resources surrounding him the elder brother told us that he had nothing to eat in his house but fresh beef.  A quantity of the choice pieces of a fat beef was roasted by an Indian boy, which we enjoyed with all the relish of hungry men.  Our host, a gentleman of intelligence and politeness, made apology after apology for his rude style of living, a principal excuse being that he had no wife.  He inquired, with apparent earnestness, if we could not send him two pretty accomplished and capable American women, whom they could marry; and then they would build a fine house, have bread, butter, cheese, and all the delicacies, luxuries, and elegancies of life in abundance.  He appeared to be well pleased with the conquest of the country by the Americans, and desirous that they should not give it up.  When we resumed our journey in the afternoon, he rode with us four or five miles to show us the way, and, on taking his leave, invited us to return again, when he said he hoped his accommodations would be much improved.  Riding 15 miles, we halted at a tule-cabin, where we remained until two o'clock in the morning, when, the moon shining brightly, we mounted our horses, and continued our journey.</P>
125.sgm:<P>We reached the Monterey road just at daylight.  My intention had been to visit Monterey; but the Salinas being unfordable, and there being no ferry, it was not possible to do it without swimming the river, which I did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:not feel inclined to do.  Monterey is situated on the bay by that name, about 90 miles by water south of San Francisco.  The bay affords a good anchorage and landing in calm weather, being exposed only to the northers, which blow violently.  The town contains about 1500 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and population.  Arriving at the rancho of Don Joaquin Gomez, we found no one but a <HI REND="italics">mestiza</HI>
125.sgm: servant at home, and could obtain nothing to eat but a <HI REND="italics">quesadilla</HI>
125.sgm:<P>At San Juan we met with Messrs. Grayson, Boggs, and a party of volunteers returning from Monterey to San Francisco, having been discharged since the suppression of the rebellion in this part of California, headed by Francisco Sanchez.  Here we learned, for the first time, the arrival at Monterey of Commodore Shubrick in the ship Independence, and of the Lexington with Captain Tomkins's company of artillery, and freighted otherwise with munitions, stores, and tools necessary to the erection and defence of durable fortifications at Monterey and San Francisco.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Seven or eight miles beyond San Juan, we found that the waters of the <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The next day (Feb. 10), about eleven o'clock, we succeeded in finding a ford across the valley and stream, and procured dinner at a soap-factory on the opposite side, belonging to T. O. Larkin, Esq.  Continuing on, we encamped at a rancho occupied by an Englishman as <HI REND="italics">mayor domo</HI>
125.sgm:.  He was very glad to see us, and treated us with unbounded hospitality, furnishing a superabundance of beef and <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The Cyane and Warren have just returned from a cruise on the southern Pacific coast of Mexico.  The town of Guymas had been taken by bombardment.  The Cyane had captured, during her cruize, fourteen prizes, besides several guns at San Blas.  The boats of the Warren, under the command of Lieut.  Radford, performed the gallant feat of cutting out of the harbour of Mazatlan the Mexican schooner Malek Abdel.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Landing in San Francisco, I found my wardrobe, which I had deposited in the care of Capt.  Leidesdorff, and the first time for nearly five months dressed myself in a civilized costume.  Having been during that time almost constantly in motion, and exposed to many hardships and privations, it was, as may be supposed, no small satisfaction to find once more a place where I could repose for a short time at least.</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Progress of the town of San Francisco--Capt. Dupont Gen. Kearny--The presidio--Appointed Alcalde--Gen. Kearny's proclamation--Arrival of Col. Stevenson's regiment--Horse-thief Indians--Administration of justice in California--Sale of lots in San Francisco.</P>
125.sgm:<P>WHEREVER the Anglo-Saxon race plant themselves, progress is certain to be displayed in some form or other.  Such is their "go-ahead" energy, that things cannot stand still where they are, whatever may be the circumstances surrounding them.  Notwithstanding the wars and insurrections, I found the town of San Francisco, on my arrival here, visibly improved.  An American population had flowed into it; lots, which heretofore have been considered almost valueless, were selling at high prices; new houses had been built, and were in progress; new commercial houses had been established; hotels had been opened for the accommodation of the travelling and business public; and the publication of a newspaper had been commenced.  The little village of two hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>On the 15th I dined on board the sloop-of-war Cyane, with Commander Dupont, to whom I had the good fortune to be the bearer from home of a letter of introduction.  I say "good fortune," because I conceive it to be one of the greatest of social blessings, as well as pleasures, to be made acquainted with a truly upright and honourable man--one whose integrity never bends to wrongful or pusillanimous expediency;--one who, armed intellectually with the panoply of justice, has courage to sustain it under any and all circumstances;--one whose ambition is, in a public capacity, to serve his country, and not to serve himself;--one who waits for his country to judge of his acts, and, if worthy, to place the laurel wreath upon his head, disdaining a self-wrought and self-assumed coronal.  Capt. Dupont is a native of Delaware; and that gallant and patriotic state should feel proud of such a son.  He is one of whom all men, on sea or on land, with whom his duties as an officer or citizen of our republic brings him in contact, speak well; and whose private virtues, as well as professional merits, are deserving of the warmest admiration and the highest honours.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Although I have long known Gen. S. W. Kearny from reputation, and saw him at Los Angeles, I was here introduced to him for the first time.  Gen. K. is a man rising fifty years of age.  His height is about five feet ten or eleven inches.  His figure is all that is required by symmetry.  His features are regular, almost Grecian; his eye is blue, and has an eagle-like expression, when excited by stern or angry emotion; but, in ordinary social intercourse, the whole expression of his countenance is mild and pleasing, and his manners and conversation are unaffected, urbane, and conciliatory, without the slightest exhibition of vanity or egotism.  He appears the cool, brave, and energetic soldier; the strict disciplinarian, without tyranny; the man, in short, determined to perform his duty, in whatever situation he may be placed, leaving consequences to follow in their natural course.  These, my first impressions, were fully confirmed by subsequent intercourse, in situations and under circumstances which, by experience, I have found an unfailing alembic for the trial of character--a crucible wherein, if the metal be impure, the drossy substances are sure to display themselves.  It is not my province to extol or pronounce judgment upon his acts; they are a part of the military and civil history of our country, and as such will be applauded or condemned, according to the estimate that may be placed upon them.  But I may be allowed to express the opinion, that no man, placed under the same circumstances, ever aimed to perform his duty with more uprightness and more fidelity to the interests and honour of his country, or who, to shed lustre upon his country, ever braved greater dangers, or endured more hardships and privations, and all without vaunting his performances and sacrifices.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On the 16th, in company of Gen. Kearny, Capt. Turner, and Lieuts. Warner and Hallock, of the U.S. Engineer Corps, I rode to the Presidio of San Francisco, and the old fortification at the mount of the bay.  The presidio is about three miles from the town, and consists of several blocks of adobe buildings, covered with tiles.  The walls of most of the buildings are crumbling for the want of care in protecting them from the annual rains; and without this care they will soon become heaps of mud.  The fort is erected upon a commanding position, about a mile and a half from the entrance to the bay.  Its walls are substantially constructed of burnt brick, and are of sufficient thickness and strength to resist heavy battering.  There are nine or ten embrasures.  Like everything else in the country belonging to the public, the fort is fast falling into ruins.  There has been no garrison here for several years; the guns are dismounted, and half decomposed by long exposure to the weather, and from want of care.  Some of them have sunk into the ground.</P>
125.sgm:<P>On the 20th I was waited upon by Gen. Kearny, and requested to accept the office of alcalde, or chief magistrate, of the district of San Francisco.  There being no opportunity of returning to the United States immediately, I accepted of the proposed appointment, and on the 22d was sworn into office, my predecessor, Lieut. W. A. Bartlett, of the navy, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>The annual salute in celebration of the birthday of the immortal and illustrious founder of our republic, required by law from all the ships of the navy in commission, in whatever part of the world they may be at the time, strikes us more forcibly when in a far-off country, as being a beautiful and appropriate tribute to the unapproachable virtues and heroism of that great benefactor of the human race, than when we are nearer home, or upon our own soil.  The U.S. ships in the harbour, at twelve o'clock on the 22d, each fired a national salute; and the day being calm and beautiful, the reports bounded from hill to hill, and were echoed and reechoed until the sound died away, apparently in the distant gorges of the Sierra Nevada.  This was a voice from the soul of WASHINGTON, speaking in majestic and thunder-tones to the green and flowery valley, the gentle hills and lofty mountains of California, and consecrating them as the future abode of millions upon millions of the sons of liberty.  The merchant and whale ships lying at anchor, catching the enthusiasm, joined in the salute; and for a time the harbour and bay in front of the town were enveloped in clouds of gunpowder smoke.</P>
125.sgm:<P>General Kearny left San Francisco, in the frigate Savannah, Captain Mervine, on the 23d, for Monterey, and soon after his arrival at that place issued the following proclamation:--</P>
125.sgm:<P>PROCLAMATION TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The President of the United States having instructed the undersigned to take charge of the civil government of California, he enters upon his duties with an ardent desire to promote, as far as he is able, the interests of the country and the welfare of its inhabitants.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The undersigned has instructions from the President to respect and protect the religious institutions of California, and to see that the religious rights of the people are in the amplest manner preserved to them, the constitution of the United States allowing every man to worship his Creator in such a manner as his own conscience may dictate to him.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The undersigned is also instructed to protect the persons and property of the quiet and peaceable inhabitants of the country against all or any of their enemies, whether from abroad or at home; and when he now assures the Californians that it will be his duty and his pleasure to comply with those instructions, he calls upon them all to exert themselves in preserving order and tranquillity, in promoting harmony and concord, and in maintaining the authority and efficiency of the laws.</P>
125.sgm:<P>It is the wish and design of the United States to provide for California, with the least possible delay, a free government, similar to those in her other territories; and the people will soon be called upon to exercise their rights as freemen, in electing their own representatives, to make such laws as may be deemed best for their interest and welfare.  But until this can be done, the laws now in existence, and not in conflict with the constitution of the United States, will be continued until changed by competent authority; and those persons who hold office will continue in the same for the present, provided they swear to support that constitution, and to faithfully perform their duty.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The undersigned hereby absolves all the inhabitants of California from any further allegiance to the republic of Mexico, and will consider them as citizens of the United States; those who remain quiet and peaceable will be respected in their rights and protected in them.  Should any take up arms against or oppose the government of this territory, or instigate others to do do, they will be considered as enemies, and treated accordingly.</P>
125.sgm:<P>When Mexico forced a war upon the United States, time did not permit the latter to invite the Californians as friends to join her standard, but compelled her to take possession of the country to prevent any European power from seizing upon it, and, in doing so, some excesses and unauthorized acts were no doubt committed by persons employed in the service of the United States, by which a few of the inhabitants have met with a loss of property; such losses will be duly investigated, and those entitled to remuneration will receive it.</P>
125.sgm:<P>California has for many years suffered greatly from domestic troubles; civil wars have been the poisoned fountains which have sent forth trouble and pestilence over her beautiful land.  Now those fountains are dried up; the star-spangled banner floats over California, and as long as the sun continues to shine upon her, so long will it float there, over the natives of the land, as well as others who have found a home in herbosom; and under it agriculture must improve, and the arts and sciences flourish, as seed in a rich and fertile soil.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The Americans and Californians are now but one people; let us cherish one wish, one hope, and let that be for the peace and quiet of our country.  Let us, as a band of brothers, unite and emulate each other in our exertions to benefit and improve this our beautiful, and which soon must be our happy and prosperous, home.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Done at Monterey, capital of California, this first day of March, A.D. 1847, and in the seventy-first year of independence of the United States.</P>
125.sgm:<P>S. W. KEARNY,</P>
125.sgm:<P>Brig.-Gen. U.S.A., and Governor of California.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The proclamation of General Kearny gave great satisfaction to the native as well as the emigrant population of the country.  Several of the alcaldes of the district of my jurisdiction, as well as private individuals (natives of the country), expressed, by letter and orally, their approbation of the sentiments of the proclamation in the warmest terms.  They said that they were heartily willing to become Americans upon these terms, and hoped that there would be the least possible delay in admitting them to the rights of American citizenship.  There was a general expectation among natives as well as foreigners, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"As a guide to the civil governor of Upper California, in our hands, see the letter of June 3rd (last), addressed to you by the Secretary of War.  You will not, however, formally declare the province to be annexed.  Permanent incorporation of the territory must depend on the government of the United States.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"After occupying with our forces all necessary points in Upper California, and establishing a temporary civil government therein, as well as assuring yourself of its internal tranquillity, and the absence of any danger of reconquest on the part of Mexico, you may charge Colonel Mason, United States first dragoons, the bearer of this open letter, or land officer next in rank to your own, with your several duties, and return yourself, with a sufficient escort of troops, to St. Louis, Missouri; but the body of the United States dragoons that accompanied you to California will remain there until further orders."</P>
125.sgm:<P>The transport ships Thomas H. Perkins, Loo Choo, Susan Drew, and Brutus, with Colonel Stevenson's regiment, arrived at San Francisco during the months of March and April.  These vessels were freighted with a vast quantity of munitions, stores, tools, saw-mills, grist-mills, etc., etc., to be employed in the fortification of the principal harbours on the coast--San Francisco, Monterey, and San Diego.  The regiment of Col. Stevenson was separated into different commands, portions of it being stationed at San Francisco, Sonoma, Monterey, Santa Barbara, and Los Angeles; and some companies employed against the horse-thief Indians of the Sierra Nevada and the Tulares.</P>
125.sgm:<P>As good an account of these horse-thief Indians, and their depredations, as I have seen, I find in the "California Star," of March 28th, 1847, written by a gentleman who has been a resident of California for a number of years, and who has been a sufferer.  It is subjoined:--</P>
125.sgm:<P>"During the Spanish regime, such a thing as a horse-thief was unknown in the country; but as soon as the Mexicans took possession, their characteristic anarchy began to prevail, and the Indinas to desert from the missions.  The first Indian horse-thief known in this part of the country was a neophyte of the mission of Santa Clara, George, who flourished about twenty years ago.  He absconded from his mission to the river of Stanislaus, of which he was a native.  From thence he returned to the settlements, and began to steal horses, which at that time were very numerous.  After pursuing his depredations for some time, he was at last pursued and killed on his return from one of his forages.  The mission of Santa Clara has been, from that time to the present day, the greatest nursery for horse-thieves, as the Stanislaus river has been and is their principal rendezvous.  I have taken some pains to inquire among some of the most intelligent and respectable of the native inhabitants, as to the probable number of horses that have been stolen between Monterey and San Francisco within the last twenty years, and the result has been that more than one hundred thousand can be distinctly enumerated, and that the total amount would probably be double that number.  Nearly all these horses have been eaten!  From the river of Stanislaus, as a central point, the evil has spread to the north and south, and at present extends from the vicinity of the Micke&acute;lemes River on the north, to the sources of the St. Joaquin on the south.  These Indians inhabit all the western declivity of the great snowy mountains, within these limits, and have become so habituated to living on horseflesh, that it is now with them the principal means of subsistence.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"In past time they have been repeatedly pursued, and many of them killed, and whole villages destroyed, but, so far from being deterred, they are continually becoming more bold and daring in their robberies, as horses become scarcer and more carefully guarded.  About twenty persons have been killed by them within the knowledge of the writer.  Among others, Mr. Lindsay and Mr. Wilson were killed by them not long ago.  Only about one month since, they shot and dangerously wounded four persons employed on the farm of Mr. Weber, near the Pueblo of St. Joseph, and at the same time stole the horses of the farm, and those also from the farms of Captain Fisher and Mr. Burnal, in the same vicinity; in all, about two hundred head.  Within the last ten days numerous parties of them have been committing depredations on many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>It has not been within the scope of my design, in writing out these notes, to enter into the minute details of the conquest and occupation of California by the forces of the United States.  To do so would require more space than I have allowed myself, and the matter would be more voluminous than interesting or important.  My intention has been to give such a sketch of the military operations in California, during my residence and travels in the country, as to afford to the reader a general and correct idea of the events transpiring at the time.  No important circumstance, I think, has escaped my attention.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Among the officers of the army stationed at San Francisco, with whom I became acquainted, were Major Hardie, in command of the troops, Captain Folsom, acting quarter-master-general in California, and Lieutenant Warner, of the engineer corps.  Lieutenant Warner marched with General Kearny from the United States, and was at the battle of San Pasqual.  I have seen the coat which he wore on that occasion, pierced in seven different places by the lances of the enemy.  He did not make this exhibition himself; and I never heard him refer to the subject but once, and then it was with the modesty of a veteran campaigner.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The corps of topographical engineers accompanying General Kearny, under the command of Captain Emory, will, doubtless, furnish in their report much interesting and valuable information.  Mr. Stanley, the artist of the expedition, completed his sketches in oil, at San Francisco; and a more truthful, interesting, and valuable series of paintings, delineating mountain scenery, the floral exhibitions on the route, the savage tribes between Santa Fe&acute; and California--combined with camp-life and marches through the desert and wilderness--has never, and probably never will be, exhibited.  Mr. Stanley informed me that he was preparing a work on the savage tribes of North America and of the islands of the Pacific, which, when completed on his plan, will be the most comprehensive and descriptive of the subject of any that has been published.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Legal proceedings are much less complex in California than in the United States.  There is no written statute law in the country.  The only law books I could find were a digested code entitled, "Laws of Spain and the Indies," published in Spain about a hundred years ago, and a small pamphlet defining the powers of various judicial officers, emanating from the Mexican government since the revolution.  A late Mexican governor of California, on being required by a magistrate to instruct him as to the manner in which he should administer the law within his jurisdiction, replied, " <HI REND="italics">Administer it in accordance with the principles of natural right and justice</HI>
125.sgm:," and this is the foundation of Californian jurisprudence.  The local <HI REND="italics">bandos</HI>
125.sgm:, or laws, are enacted, adjudicated, and executed by the local magistrates, or alcaldes.  The alcalde has jurisdiction in all municipal matters, and in cases for minor offences, and for debt in sums not over one hundred dollars.  In cases of heinous or capital offences, the alcalde has simply an examining power, the testimony being taken down in writing, and transmitto the <HI REND="italics">juez de primera instancia</HI>
125.sgm:, or first judge of the district, before whom the case is tried.  Civil actions, for sums over one hundred dollars, must also be tried before the <HI REND="italics">juez de primera instancia</HI>
125.sgm:, and from him there is an appeal to the prefect, or the governor of the province.  The trial by <HI REND="italics">hombres buenos</HI>
125.sgm:, or good men, is one of the established legal tribunals when either of the parties demand it, and is similar to our trial by jury; the difference being in the number, the <HI REND="italics">hombres buenos</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The policy of the Mexican government has been to encourage in certain localities the erection of pueblos, or towns, and for this purpose they have made grants of land to the local authorities, or municipalities, within certain defined limits, to be regranted upon application, in lots of fifty or one hundred varass, as the case may be, to persons <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>GENERAL OBSERVATIONS UPON THE COUNTRY.</P>
125.sgm:<P>First settlement of the missionaries--Population--Characteristics of white population--Employments--Pleasures and amusements--Position of women--Soil--Grasses--Vegetable productions--Agriculture--Fruits--Cattle--Horses--Wild animals--Minerals--Climate--Flora--Water-power--Timber--Religion.</P>
125.sgm:<P>IT was during the month of November, 1602, the sun just retiring behind the distant high land which forms the background of a spacious harbour at the southernmost point of Alta California, that a small fleet of vessels might have been seen directing their course as if in search of a place of anchorage; their light sails drawn up, while the larger ones, swelling now and then to the action of the breeze, bore them majestically along, forcing their way through the immense and almost impenetrable barrier of sea-weed, to a haven which, at the remote period stated, was considered the unexplored region of the North.  The fleet referred to hauled their wind to the shore, and, passing a bluff point of land on their left, soon came to anchor; but not until the shades of night had cast a gloom over the scene so recently lighted up with the gorgeous rays of a setting sun.</P>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>So successful had been the character of this expedition throughout the entire period of its execution, that an enthusiasm prevailed in the minds of the Spaniards, which could only be assuaged by an attempt to conquer and christianize the inhabitants of that distant portion of the American continent.  Many were the fruitless results of the Spanish adventurer--numerous were the statements of his toil and labour, till at length a formidable attempt, under the patronage and direction of Don Gaspar de Portala and Father Junipero Serra, successfully achieved the desired object for which it was planned and executed.</P>
125.sgm:<P>At San Diego, where, a century and a half before, the primitive navigators under Cortez communed with the rude and unsophisticated native--there, where the zealous devotee erected his altar on the burning sand, and with offerings of incense and prayer hallowed it to God, as the birthplace of Christianity in that region--upon that sainted spot commenced the spiritual conquest, the cross was erected, and the holy missionaries who accompanied the expedition entered heart and soul upon their religious duties.  Successful in all they undertook, their first establishment in a short time was completed, and drawing around it the converted Indians in large numbers, the rude and uncultivated fields gave place to agricultural improvement--the arts and sciences gradually obtained foundation where before all was darkness, and day after day hundreds were added to the folds of the holy and apostolic church.  Thus triumphantly proceeded the labours of the Spanish conquerors!  In course of time other institutions were founded at Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco, where at each place a military fortress was erected, which served for their protection, and to keep in check such of the natives who were disinclined to observe the regulations of the community.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The natives formed an ardent and almost adorable attachment for their spiritual fathers, and were happy, quite happy, under their jurisdiction.  Ever ready to obey them, the labour in the field and workshop met with ready compliance, and so prosperous were the institutions that many of them became wealthy, in the increase of their cattle and great abundance of their granaries.  It was no unusual sight to behold the plains for leagues literally spotted with bullocks, and large fields of corn and wheat covering acres of ground.  This state of things continued until the period when Mexico underwent a change in its political form of government, which so disheartened the feelings of the loyal missionaries, that they became regardless of their establishments, and suffered them to decline for want of attention to their interests.  At length, civil discord and anarchy among the Californians prepared a more effective measure for their destruction, and they were left to the superintendence of individuals who plundered them of all that was desirable or capable of removal.  Thus, the government commenced the robbery, and its hirelings carried it out to the letter, destroying and laying waste wherever they were placed.  In order to give the inhabitants a share of the spoils, some of them were permitted to slaughter the cattle by contract, which was an equal division of the proceeds, and the contractors were careful, when they delivered one hide to a mission, to reserve <HI REND="italics">two</HI>
125.sgm:<P>This important revolution in the systematic order of the monastic institutions took place in 1836, at which period the most important of them possessed property, exclusive of their lands and tenements, to the value of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars.  At the present day they have but a little more than dilapidated walls and restricted boundaries of territory.  Notwithstanding this wanton devastation of property, contrary to the opinion of many who were strongly in favour of supporting these religious institutions, the result proved beneficial to the country at large.  Individual enterprise succeeded as the lands became distributed, so that the Californian beheld himself no longer dependent on the bounty of his spiritual directors, but, on the contrary, he was enabled to give support to them, from the increase and abundance of his own possessions.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Subsequent to the expulsion of the Mexicans, numbers of new farms were created, and hundreds of Americans were scattered over the country.  Previous to 1830, the actual possessions of horned cattle by the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
125.sgm: did not exceed one hundred thousand; but in 1842, according to a fair estimate, made by one on the spot, the number had increased to four hundred thousand; so that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>Presuming a statistical knowledge of this country, before and after the missionary institutions were secularized, may be interesting, I will insert the following returns of 1831 and 1842, to contrast the same with its present condition:--</P>
125.sgm:<P>1st.  In 1832 the white population throughout Alta-California did not exceed 4,500, while the Indians of the twenty-one missions amounted to 19,000; in 1842, the former had increased to 7,000, and the latter decreased to about 5,000.</P>
125.sgm:<P>2nd.  In the former year, the number of horned cattle, including individual possessions, amounted to 500,000; in the latter, to 40,000.</P>
125.sgm:<P>3rd.  At the same period, the number of sheep, goats, and pigs, was 321,000; at the latter, 32,000.</P>
125.sgm:<P>4th.  In 1831 the number of horses, asses, mules, etc., was 64,000; in 1842 it was 30,000.</P>
125.sgm:<P>5th.  The produce in corn, etc., had decreased in a much greater proportion--that of seventy to four.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The amount of duties raised at the custom-house in Monterey, from 1839 to 1842, was as follows, viz.:--</P>
125.sgm:<P>1839<HSEP>85,613 dollars.</P>
125.sgm:<P>1840<HSEP>72,308  "</P>
125.sgm:<P>1841<HSEP>101,150  "</P>
125.sgm:<P>1842<HSEP>73,729  "</P>
125.sgm:<P>The net amount of revenue seldom exceeding in any year eighty thousand dollars; so that, when a deficiency took place, to supply the expenditures of government, it had been usual to call upon the missions for aid.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The value of the hides and tallow derived from the annual <HI REND="italics">matanzas</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The permanent population of that portion of Upper California situated between the Sierra Nevada and the Pacific, I estimate at 25,000.  Of this number, 8,000 are Hispano-Americans, 5,000 foreigners, chiefly from the United States, and 12,000 christianized Indians.  There are considerable numbers of wild or Gentile Indians, inhabiting the valley of the San Joaquin and the gorges of the Sierra, not included in this estimate.  They are probably as numerous as the Christian Indians.  The Indian population inhabiting the region of the Great Salt Lake, Mary's River, the oases of the Great Desert Basin, and the country bordering the Rio Colorado and its tributaries, being spread over a vast extent of territory, are scarcely seen, although the aggregate number is considerable.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The Californians do not differ materially from the Mexicans, from whom they are descended, in other provinces of that country.  Physically and intellectually, the men, probably, are superior to the same race farther south, and inhabiting the countries contiguous to the city of Mexico.  The inter-mixture of blood with the Indian and negro races has been less, although it is very perceptible.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The men, as a general fact, are well made, with pleasing sprightly countenances, and possessing much grace and ease of manners, and vivacity of conversation.  But hitherto they have had little knowledge of the world and of events, beyond what they have heard through Mexico, and derived from the supercargoes of merchant-ships and whalemen touching upon the coast.  There are no public schools in the country--at least I never heard of one.  There are but few books.  General Valle&acute;jo has a library with many valuable books, and this is the only one I saw, although there are others; but they are rare, and confined to a few families.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The men are almost constantly on horseback, and as horsemen excel any I have seen in other parts of the world.  From the nature of their pursuits and amusements, they have brought horsemanship to a perfection challenging admiration and exciting astonishment.  They are trained to the horse and the use of the lasso ( <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
125.sgm:, as it is here called) from their infancy.  The first act of a child, when he is able to stand alone, is to throw his toy lasso around the neck of a kitten; his next feat is performed on the dog; his next upon a goat or calf; and so on, until he mounts the horse, and demonstrates his skill upon horses and cattle.  The crowning feat of dexterity with the <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
125.sgm:, and of horsemanship, combined with daring courage, is the lassoing of the grisly bear.  This feat is performed frequently upon this large and ferocious animal, but it is sometimes fatal to the performer and his horse.  Well drilled, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>For the pleasures of the table they care but little.  With his horse and trappings, his sarape and blanket, a piece of beef and a <HI REND="italics">tortilla</HI>
125.sgm:<P>While the men are employed in attending to the herds of cattle and horses, and engaged in their other amusements, the women (I speak of the middle classes on the ranchos) superintend and perform most of the drudgery appertaining to housekeeping, and the cultivation of the gardens, from whence are drawn such vegetables as are consumed at the table.  These are few, consisting of <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
125.sgm:, potatoes, onions, and <HI REND="italics">chiles</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The soil of that portion of California between the Sierra Nevada and the Pacific will compare, in point of fertility, with any that I have seen elsewhere.  As I have already described such portions of it as have come under my observation, it is unnecessary for me here to descend to particulars.  Wheat, barley, and other small grains, with hemp, flax, and tobacco, can be produced in all the valleys, without irrigation.  To produce maize, potatoes, and other garden vegetables, irrigation is necessary.  Oats and mustard grow spontaneously, with such rankness as to be considered nuisances upon the soil.  I have forced my way through thousands of acres of these, higher than my head when mounted on a horse.  The oats grow to the summits of the hills, but they are not here so tall and rank as in the valleys.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The varieties of grasses are greater than on the Atlantic side of the continent, and far more nutritious.  I have seen seven different kinds of clover, several of them in a dry state, depositing a seed upon the ground so abundant as to cover it, which is lapped up by the cattle and horses and other animals, as corn or oats, when threshed, would be with us.  All the grasses, and they cover the entire country, are heavily seeded, and, when ripe, are as fattening to stock as the grains which we feed to our beef, horses, and hogs.  Hence it is unnecessary to the sustenance or fattening of stock to raise corn for their consumption.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Agriculture is in its rudest state.  The farming implements which have been used by the Californians, with few exceptions, are the same as were used three hundred years ago, when Mexico was conquered by Cortez.  A description of them would be tedious.  The plough, however, which merely scratches the ground, is the fork of a small tree.  It is the same pattern as the Roman plough, two thousand years ago.  Other agricultural implements are of the same description.  The Americans, and other foreigners, are, however, introducing the American plough, and other American farming tools, the consequence of which has already been, to some extent, to produce a revolution in agriculture.  The crops of wheat and barley, which I saw about the 1st of June, while passing through the country on my journey to the United States, exceeded in promise any which I have seen in the United States.  It was reported to me that Captain Sutter's crop of wheat, for 1847, would amount to 75,000 bushels.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The natural vegetable productions of California have been sufficiently noticed in the course of this work, for the reader to form a correct estimate of the capabilities of the soil and climate.  It is supposed by some, that cotton, sugar, and rice, could be produced here.  I do not doubt but there are portions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>The principal product of the country has been its cattle and horses.  The cattle are, I think, the largest and finest I ever saw, and the beef is more delicious.  There are immense herds of these, to which I have previously referred; and their hides and tallow, when slaughtered, have hitherto composed the principal exports from the country.  If I were to hazard an estimate of the number of hides annually exported, it would be conjectural, and not worth much.  I would suppose, however, at this time (1847), that the number would not fall much short of 150,000, and a corresponding number of arrobas (25 pounds) of tallow.  The average value of cattle is about five dollars per head.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The horses and mules are correspondingly numerous with the cattle; and although the most of them are used in the country, considerable numbers are driven to Sonora, New Mexico, and other southern provinces, and some of them to the United States, for a market.  They are smaller than American horses, and I do not think them equal for continous hard service; but on short trips, for riding, their speed and endurance are not often, if ever, equalled by our breed of horses.  The value of good horses is from ten to twenty-five dollars; of mares, five dollars.  The prices have, however, since the Americans came into the country, become fluctuating, and the value of both horses and cattle is increasing rapidly.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The wild animals of California are the wild-horse, the elk, the black-tailed deer, antelope, grizly bear, all in large numbers.  Added to these are the beaver, otter, coyote, hare, squirrel, and the usual variety of other small animals.  There is not so great a variety of small birds as I have seen elsewhere.  I do not consider that the country presents strong attractions for the ornithologist.  But what is wanting in variety is made up in numbers.  The bays and indentations on the coast, as well as the rivers and lakes interior, swarm with myriads of wild geese, ducks, swans, and other water birds.  The geese and ducks are a mongrel race, their plumage being variegated, the same as our barn-yard fowls.  Some of the islands in the harbour, near San Francisco, are white with the <HI REND="italics">guano</HI>
125.sgm:<P>In regard to the minerals of California, not much is yet known.  It has been the policy of the owners of land upon which there existed minerals to conceal them as much as possible.  A reason for this has been, that the law of Mexico is such, that if one man discovers a mine of any kind upon another man's land, and the proprietor does not work it, the former may <HI REND="italics">denounce</HI>
125.sgm:<P>I have taken much pains to describe to the reader, from day to day, and at different points during my travels in California, the temperature and weather.  It is rarely so cold in the settled portions of California as to congeal water.  But twice only while here I saw ice, and then not thicker than window-glass.  I saw no snow resting upon the ground.  The annual rains commence in November, and continue, with intervals of pleasant springlike weather, until May.  From May to November, usually, no rain falls.  There are, however, exceptions.  Rain sometimes falls in August.  The thermometer, at any season of the year, rarely sinks below 50&deg; or rises above 80&deg;.  In certain positions on the coast, and especially at San Francisco, the winds rise diurnally, and blowing fresh upon the shore render the temperature cool in midsummer.  In the winter the wind blows from the land, and the temperature at these points is warmer.  These local peculiarities of climate are not descriptive of the general climate of the interior.</P>
125.sgm:<P>For salubrity I do not think there is any climate in the world superior to that of the coast of California.  I was in the country nearly a year, exposed much of the time to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>The botany and flora of California are rich, and will hereafter form a fruitful field of discovery to the naturalist.  There are numerous plants reported to possess extraordinary medical virtues.  The "soap-plant" ( <HI REND="italics">amole</HI>
125.sgm:<P>There is another plant in high estimation with the Californians, called <HI REND="italics">canchalagua</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The water-power in California is ample for any required mill purposes.  Timber for lumber is not so convenient as is desirable.  There is, however, a sufficiency of it, which, when improvements are made, will be more accessible.  The timber on the Sierra Nevada, the most magnificent in the world, cannot be, at present, available.  The evergreen oak, that grows generally in the valleys, is not valuable, except for fuel.  But in the <HI REND="italics">canadas</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The religion of the Californians is the Roman Catholic, and, like the people of all Roman Catholic countries, they appear to be devotedly attached to the forms of their religion.  That there are some, I will not say how many, paganish grafts upon the laws, formalities, and ceremonies, as prescribed by the "Holy Church Universal" for its government and observance, is undeniable, but these probably do not materially affect the system.  The females, I noticed, were nearly all devoutly attached to their religious institutions.  I have seen, on festival or saint days, the entire floor of a church occupied by pious women, with their children, kneeling in devout worship, and chanting with much fervency some dismal hymn appertaining to the service.  There are but few of the Jesuit fathers who established the missions now remaining in the country.  The services are performed at several of the churches that I visited, by native Indians, educated by the <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>OFFICIAL REPORT ON THE GOLD MINES.</P>
125.sgm:<P>The following is an official account of a visit paid to the gold region in July by Colonel Mason, who had been appointed to the military command in California, and made his report to the authorities at Washington.  It is dated from head-quarters at Monterey, August 17, 1848.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Sir,--I have the honour to inform you that, accompanied by Lieut. W. T. Sherman, 3rd Artillery, A.A.A. General, I started on the 12th of June last to make a tour through the northern part of California.  We reached San Francisco on the 20th, and found that all, or nearly all, its male inhabitants had gone to the mines.  The town, which a few months before was so busy and thriving, was then almost deserted.  Along the whole route mills were lying idle, fields of wheat were open to cattle and horses, houses vacant, and farms going to waste.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"On the 5th we arrived in the neighbourhood of the mines, and proceeded twenty-five miles up the American Fork, to a point on it now known as the Lower Mines, or Mormon Diggings.  The hill sides were thickly strewn with canvas tents and bush-harbours; a store was erected, and several boarding shanties in operation.  The day was intensely hot, yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"The country on either side of Weber's Creek is much broken up by hills, and is intersected in every direction by small streams or ravines which contain more or less gold.  Those that have been worked are barely scratched, and, although thousands of ounces have been carried away, I do not consider that a serious impression has been made upon the whole.  Every day was developing new and richer deposits; and the only impression seemed to be, that the metal would be found in such abundance as seriously to depreciate in value.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"On the 8th July I returned to the lower mines, and eventually to Monterey, where I arrived on the 17th of July.  Before leaving Sutter's, I satisfied myself that gold existed in the bed of the Feather River, in the Yubah and Bear, and in many of the small streams that lie between the latter and the American fork; also, that it had been found in the Consummes, to the south of the American fork.  In each of these streams the gold is found in small scales, whereas in the intervening mountains it occurs in coarser lumps.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Mr. Sinclair, whose rancho is three miles above Sutter's on the north side of the American, employs about fifty Indians on the north fork, not far from its junction with the main stream.  He had been engaged about five weeks when I saw him, and up to that time his Indians had used simply closely-woven willow baskets.  His net proceeds (which I saw) were about 16,000 dollars' worth of gold.  He showed me the proceeds of his last week's work--14 lbs. avoirdupois of clean-washed gold.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The principal store at Sutter's fort, that of Brannan and Co., had received in payment for goods 36,000 dollars' worth of this gold from the 1st of May to the 10th of July.  Other merchants had also made extensive sales.  Large quantities of goods were daily sent forward to the mines, as the Indians, heretofore so poor and degraded, have suddenly become consumers of the luxuries of life.  I before mentioned that the greater part of the farmers and rancheros had abandoned their fields to go to the mines.  This is not the case with Captain Sutter, who was carefully gathering his wheat, estimated at 40,000 bushels.  Flour is already worth, at Sutter's, 36 dollars a-barrel, and will soon be 50.  Unless large quantities of breadstuffs reach the country much suffering will occur; but as each man is now able to pay a large price, it is believed the merchants will bring from Chili and the Oregon a plentiful supply for the coming winter.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The most moderate estimate I could obtain from men acquainted with the subject was, that upwards of 4,000 men were working in the gold district, of whom more than one-half were Indians, and that from 30,000 to 50,000 dollars' worth of gold, if not more, were daily obtained.  The entire gold district, with very few exceptions of grants made some years ago by the Mexican authorities, is on land belonging to the United States.  It was a matter of serious reflection to me, how I could secure to the Government certain rents <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>"The discovery of these vast deposits of gold has entirely changed the character of Upper California.  Its people, before engaged in cultivating their small patches of ground, and guarding their herds of cattle and horses, have all gone to the mines, or are on their way thither.  Labourers of every trade have left their work-benches, and tradesmen their shops; sailors desert their ships as fast as they arrive on the coast; and several vessels have gone to sea with hardly enough hands to spread a sail.  Two or three are now at anchor in San Francisco, with no crew on board.  Many desertions, too, have taken place from the garrisons within the influence of these mines; twenty-six soldiers have deserted from the post of Sonoma, twenty-four from that of San Francisco, and twenty-four from Monterey.  I have no hesitation now in saying, that there is more gold in the country drained by the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers than will pay the cost of the present war with Mexico a hundred times over.  No capital is required to obtain this gold, as the labouring man wants nothing but his pick and shovel and tin pan, with which to dig and wash the gravel, and many frequently pick gold out of the crevices of rocks with their knives, in pieces of from one to six ounces.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Gold is also believed to exist on the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada; and, when at the mines, I was informed by an intelligent Mormon that it had been found near the Great Salt Lake by some of his fraternity.  Nearly all the Mormons are leaving California to go to the Salt Lake; and this they surely would not do unless they were sure of finding gold there, in the same abundance as they now do on the Sacramento.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"I have the honour to be,</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Your most obedient Servant,</P>
125.sgm:<P>"R. B. MASON, "Colonel 1st Dragoons, commanding.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Brigadier-General R. Jones, "Adjutant-General, U.S.A., Washington, D.C."</P>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Rate of Wages--Mode of procuring the Gold--Extent of Gold Region--Price of Provisions.</P>
125.sgm:<P>IT will be seen, from the later accounts that each new report continues to realize the wildest expectation.  The following letter dated Monterey, November 16th, is highly interesting--</P>
125.sgm:<P>"We can now call ourselves citizens of the United States.  We have now only to go by law, as we formerly went by custom; that is, when Congress gives us a government and code.  The old foreign residents of California, having done very well ten or twenty years without law, care but very little whether Congress pays early or late attention to the subject.  Those who have emigrated from the Atlantic States within the last three or four years deem the subject an important one; I only call it difficult.  The carrying out a code of laws, under existing circumstances, is far from being an easy task.  The general Government may appoint governors, secretaries, and other public functionaries; and judges, marshals, collectors, etc., may accept offices with salaries of 3000 or 4000 dollars per annum; but how they are to obtain their petty officers, at half these sums, remains to be seen.  The pay of a member of Congress will be accepted here by those alone who do not know enough to better themselves.  Mechanics can now get 10 to 16 dollars per day; labourers on the wharfs or elsewhere, 5 to 10 dollars; clerks and storekeepers, 1000 to 3000 dollars per annum--some engage to keep store during their pleasure at 8 dollars per day, or 1 lb. or 1 1/2 lb. of gold per month; cooks and stewards, 60 to 100 dollars per month.  In fact, labour of every description commands exorbitant prices.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The Sandwich Islands, Oregon, and Lower California are fast parting with their inhabitants, all bound for this coast, and thence to the great `placer' of the Sacramento Valley, where the digging and washing of one man that does not produce 100 troy ounces of gold, 23 carats, from the size of a half spangle to one pound in a month, sets the digger to `prospecting,' that is, looking for better grounds.  Your `Paisano' can point out many a man who has, for fifteen to twenty days in succession, bagged up five to ten ounces of gold a-day.  Our placer, or gold region, now extends over 300 or 400 miles of country, embracing all the creeks and branches on the east side of the river Sacramento and one side of the San Joaquin.  In my travels I have, when resting under a tree and grazing my horse, seen pieces of pure gold taken from crevices of the rocks or slate where we were stopping.  On one occasion, nooning or refreshing on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Washington Union</HI>
125.sgm: contains a letter from Lieutenant Larkin, dated Monterey, November 16, received at the State Department, containing further confirmation of the previous despatches, public and private, and far outstripping all other news in its exciting character.  The gold was increasing in size and quality daily.  Lumps were found weighing from one to two pounds.  Several had been heard of weighing as high as 16 pounds, and one 25 pounds.  Many men, who were poor in June, were worth 30,000 dollars, by digging and trading with the Indians.  100 dollars a-day is the average amount realized daily, from July to October.  Half the diggers were sick with fevers, though not many deaths had occurred among them.  The Indians would readily give an ounce of gold for a common calico shirt; others were selling for ten dollars each in specie.  The gold region extends over a track of 300 miles, and it was not known that it did not extend 1000.  A letter from Commodore Jones states that many of the petty officers and men had deserted and gone in search of the gold.  He adds, the Indians were selling gold at 50 cents the ounce.  Many vessels were deserted by captain, cook, and seamen.  The ship <HI REND="italics">Isaac Walton</HI>
125.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P>Route by land--Outfit, etc., and advice to intending Emigrants.</P>
125.sgm:<P>THE route via Independence or St. Joseph, Mo., to Fort Laramie, South Pass, Fort Hall, the Sink of Mary's River, etc., etc., the <HI REND="italics">old</HI>
125.sgm: route.  Let no emigrant, carrying his family with him, deviate from it, or imagine that he can find a better road.  This road is the best that has yet been discovered, and to the Bay of San Francisco and the Gold Region it is much the shortest.  The Indians, moreover, on this route, have, up to the present time, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<P>The lightest wagon that can be constructed, of sufficient strength to carry 2500 pounds' weight, is the vehicle most desirable.  No wagon should be loaded over this weight, or if it is, it will be certain to stall in the muddy sloughs and crossings on the prairie in the first part of the journey.  This wagon can be hauled by three or four yokes of oxen or six mules.  Oxen are usually employed by the emigrants for hauling their wagons.  They travel about 15 miles per day, and, all things considered, are perhaps equal to mules for this service, although they cannot travel so fast.  They are, however, less expensive, and there is not so much danger of their straying and of being stolen by the Indians.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Pack-mules can only be employed by parties of men.  It would be very difficult to transport a party of women and children on pack-mules, with the provisions, clothing, and other baggage necessary to their comfort.  A party of men, however, with pack-mules, can make the journey in less time by one month than it can be done in wagons--carrying with them, however, nothing more than their provisions, clothing, and ammunition.</P>
125.sgm:<P>For parties of <HI REND="italics">men</HI>
125.sgm: going out, it would be well to haul their wagons, provisions, etc., as far as Fort Laramie, or Fort Hall, by mules, carrying with them pack-saddles and <HI REND="italics">alforjases</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The provisions actually necessary per man are as follows:--</P>
125.sgm:<P>150 lbs. of flour.</P>
125.sgm:<P>150 do. bacon.</P>
125.sgm:<P>25 do. coffee.</P>
125.sgm:<P>30 do. sugar.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Added to these, the main items, there should be a small quantity of rice, 50 or 75 lbs. of crackers, dried peaches, etc., and a keg of lard, with salt, pepper, etc., and such other luxuries of light weight as the person outfitting chooses to purchase.  He will think of them before he starts.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Every man should be provided with a good rifle, and, if convenient, with a pair of pistols, five pounds of powder, and ten pounds of lead.  A revolving belt-pistol may be found useful.</P>
125.sgm:<P>With the wagon, there should be carried such carpenter's tools as a hand-saw, auger, gimlet, chisel, shaving-knife, etc., an axe, hammer, and hatchet.  This last weapon every man should have in his belt, with a hunter's or a bowie-knife.</P>
125.sgm:<P>From Independence to the first settlement in California, which is near the <HI REND="italics">gold region</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The accounts that have been received and published in regard to the wealth and productiveness of the gold mines, and other mines in California, are undoubtedly true.  They are derived from the most authentic and reliable sources, and from individuals whose veracity may be undoubtingly believed.</P>
125.sgm:<P>When a young man arrives there, he must turn his attention to whatever seems to promise the largest recompense for his labour.  It is impossible in the new state of things produced by the late discoveries, and the influx of population, to foresee what this might be.  The country is rich in agricultural resources, as well as in the precious metals, and, with proper enterprise and industry, he could scarcely fail to do well.</P>
125.sgm:<P>Families, as well as parties going out, should carry with them good tents, to be used after their arrival as houses.  The influx of population will probably be so great that it will be difficult, if not impossible, to obtain other shelter for some time after their arrival.  The climate of the country, however, even in winter, is so mild that, with good tents, comfort is attainable.  They should be careful, also, to carry as much <HI REND="italics">subsistence</HI>
125.sgm:<P>The shortest route to California is unquestionably by the West India Mail Packets, which leave Southampton on the 17th of every month.  The point to which they take passengers is Chagres.  This voyage is usually accomplished in about 22 to 26 days.  From thence passengers proceed across the Isthmus, a distance of about 52 miles (say three or four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:days' journey) to Panama, and thence 3500 miles by sea in the Pacific to St. Francisco.  From the vast number of eager emigrants that it is expected will assemble at Panama, it is very probable that great delay will be occasioned from there not being sufficient number of vessels to convey them to their destination.  Unless such adventurers are abundantly supplied with money, they will not be able to live in the hot desolation of the tropics, where life is but little valued, and where death is even less regarded.  The entire route by sea (round Cape Horn) cannot be less than 18,500 miles, and generally occupies from five to six months, yet this route is much cheaper, safer, and in the end (from the delay that will occur at Panama) quite as <HI REND="italics">short</HI>
125.sgm:<BACK><DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.</HEAD>
125.sgm:<P><HSEP>THE following are letters addressed to the Government at Washington, and other communications, all of which, it will be seen, are fully confirmatory of the accounts given in the preceding pages; with other details of interest relative to the state of the gold districts:  <HI REND="italics">Extract from a Letter from Mr. Larkin, United States Consul at Monterey, to Mr. Buchanan, Secretary of State at Washington</HI>
125.sgm:.<LB>"San Francisco (Upper California), June 1, 1848.<LB>"Sir: ***I have to report to the State Department one of the most astonishing excitements and state of affairs now existing in this country, that, perhaps, has ever been brought to the notice of the Government.  On the American fork of the Sacramento and Feather River, another branch of the same, and the adjoining lands, there has been within the present year discovered a placer, a vast tract of land containing gold, in small particles.  This gold, thus far, has been taken on the bank of the river, from the surface to eighteen inches in depth, and is supposed deeper, and to extend over the country.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"On account of the inconvenience of washing, the people have, up to this time, only gathered the metal on the banks, which is done simply with a shovel, filling a shallow dish, bowl, basket, or tin pan, with a quantity of black sand, similar to the class used on paper, and washing out the sand by movement of the vessel.  It is now two or three weeks since the men employed in those washings have appeared in this town with gold, to exchange for merchandise and provisions.  I presume nearly 20,000 dollars of this gold has as yet been so exchanged.  Some 200 or 300 men have remained up the river, or are gone to their homes, for the purpose of returning to the Placer, and washing immediately with shovels, picks, and baskets; many of them, for the first few weeks, depending on borrowing from others.  I have seen the written statement of the work of one man for sixteen days, which averaged 25 dollars per day; others have, with a shovel and pan, or wooden bowl, washed out 10 dollars to even 50 dollars in a day.  There are now some men yet washing who have 500 dollars to 1,000 dollars.  As they have to stand two feet deep in the river, they work but a few hours in the day, and not every day in the week.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"A few men have been down in boats to this port, spending twenty to thirty ounces of gold each--about 300 dollars.  I am confident that this town (San Francisco) has one-half of its tenements empty, locked up with the furniture.  The owners--storekeepers, lawyers, mechanics, and labourers--all gone to the Sacramento with their families.  Small parties, of five to fifteen men, have sent to this town and offered cooks ten to fifteen dollars per day for a few weeks.  Mechanics and teamsters, earning the year past five to eight dollars per day, have struck and gone.  Several U.S. volunteers have deserted.  U.S. barque Anita, belonging to the Army, now at anchor here, has but six men.  One Sandwich Island vessel in port lost all her men; and was obliged to engaged another crew at 50 dollars for the run of fifteen days to the Islands.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"One American captain having his men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:shipped on this coast in such a manner that they could leave at any time, had them all on the eve of quitting, when he agreed to continue their pay and food; leaving one on board, he took a boat and carried them to the gold regions--furnishing tools and giving his men one-third.  They have been gone a week.  Common spades and shovels, one month ago worth 1 dollar, will now bring 10 dollars, at the gold regions.  I am informed 50 dollars has been offered for one.  Should this gold continue as represented, this town and others would be depopulated.  Clerks' wages have risen from 600 dollars to 1000 per annum, and board; cooks, 25 dollars to 30 dollars per month.  This sum will not be any inducement a month longer, unless the fever and ague appears among the washers.  The <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
125.sgm:, printed here, stopped this week.  The <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"I have seen several pounds of this gold, and consider it very pure, worth in New York 17 dollars to 18 dollars per ounce; 14 dollars to 16 dollars, in merchandise, is paid for it here.  What good or bad effect this gold mania will have on California, I cannot fore tell.  It may end this year; but I am informed that it will continue many years.  Mechanics now in this town are only waiting to finish some rude machinery, to enable them to obtain the gold more expeditiously, and free from working in the river.  Up to this time, but few Californians have gone to the mines, being afraid the Americans will soon have trouble among themselves, and cause disturbance to all around.  I have seen some of the black sand, as taken from the bottom of the river (I should think in the States it would bring 25 to 50 cents per pound), containing many pieces of gold; they are from the size of the head of a pin to the weight of the eighth of an ounce.  I have seen some weighing one-quarter of an ounce (4 dollars).  Although my statements are almost incredible, I believe I am within the statements believed by every one here.  Ten days back, the excitement had not reached Monterey.  I shall, within a few days, visit this gold mine, and will make another report to you.  In closed you will have a specimen.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"I have the honour to be, very respectfully,<LB>"THOMAS O. LARKIN.<LB>"P.S.  This placer, or gold region, is situated on public land." <HI REND="italics">Mr. Larkin to Mr. Buchanan</HI>
125.sgm:.<LB>"Monterey, California, June 28, 1848.<LB>"SIR: My last dispatch to the State Department was written in San Francisco, the 1st of this month.  In that I had the honour to give some information respecting the new "placer," or gold regions lately discovered on the branches of the Sacramento River.  Since the writing of that dispatch I have visited a part of the gold region, and found it all I had heard, and much more than I anticipated.  The part that I visited was upon a fork of the American River, a branch of the Sacramento, joining the main river at Sutter's Fort.  The place in which I found the people digging was about twenty-five miles from the fort by land.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"I have reason to believe that gold will be found on many branches of the Sacramento and the Joaquin rivers.  People are already scattered over one hundred miles of land, and it is supposed that the "placer" extends from river to river.  At present the workmen are employed within ten or twenty yards of the river, that they may be convenient to water.  On Feather river there are several branches upon which the people are digging for gold.  This is two or three days' ride from the place I visited.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"At my camping place I found, on a surface of two or three miles on the banks of the river, some fifty tents, mostly owned by Americans.  These had their families.  There are no Californians who have taken their families as yet to the gold regions; but few or none will ever do it; some from New Mexico may do so next year, but no Californians.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"I was two nights at a tent occupied by eight Americans, viz., two sailors, one clerk, two carpenters, and three daily workmen.  These men were in company; had two machines, each made from one hundred feet of boards (worth there 150 dollars, in Monterey 15 dollars--being one day's work), made similar to a child's cradle, ten feet long, with out the ends.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The two evenings I saw these eight men bring to their tents the labour of the day.  I suppose they made each 50 dollars per day; their own calculation was two pounds of gold <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>"I am of the opinion that on the American fork, Feather River, and Copimes River, there are near two thousand people, nine-tenths of them foreigners.  Perhaps there are one hundred families, who have their teams, wagons, and tents.  Many persons are waiting to see whether the months of July and August will be sickly, before they leave their present business to go to the `Placer.'  The discovery of this gold was made by some Mormons, in January or February, who for a time kept it a secret; the majority of those who are working there began in May.  In most every instance the men, after digging a few days, have been compelled to leave for the purpose of returning home to see their families, arrange their business, and purchase provisions.  I feel confident in saying there are fifty men in this `Placer' who have on an average 1,000 dollars each, obtained in May and June.  I have not met with any person who had been fully employed in washing gold one month; most, however, appear to have averaged an ounce per day.  I think there must, by this time, be over 1,000 men at work upon the different branches of the Sacramento; putting their gains at 10,000 dollars per day, for six days in the week, appears to me not overrated.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Should this news reach the emigration of California and Oregon, now on the road, connected with the Indian wars, now impoverishing the latter country, we should have a large addition to our population; and should the richness of the gold region continue, our emigration in 1849 will be many thousands, and in 1850 still more.  If our countrymen in California, as clerks, mechanics, and workmen, will forsake employment at from 2 dollars to 6 dollars per day, how many more of the same class in the Atlantic States, earning much less, will leave for this country under such prospects?  It is the opinion of many who have visited the gold regions the past and present months, that the ground will afford gold for many years, perhaps for a century.  From my own examination of the rivers and their banks, I am of opinion that, at least for a few years, the golden products will equal the present year.  However, as neither men of science, nor the labourers now at work, have made any explorations of consequence, it is a matter of impossibility to give any opinion as to the extent and richness of this part of California.  Every Mexican who has seen the place says throughout their Republic there has never been any `placer like this one.'</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Could Mr. Polk and yourself see California as we now see it, you would think that a few thousand people, on 100 miles square of the Sacramento valley, would yearly turn out of this river the whole price our country pays for the acquired territory.  When I finished my first letter I doubted my own writing, and, to be better satisfied, showed it to one of the principal merchants of San Francisco, and to Captain Fulsom, of the Quartermaster's Department, who decided at once I was far below the reality.  You certainly will suppose, from my two letters, that I am, like others, led away by the excitement of the day.  I think I am not.  In my last I inclosed a small sample of the gold dust, and I find my only error was in putting a value to the sand.  At that time I was not aware how the gold was found; I now can describe the mode of collecting it.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"A person without a machine, after digging off one or two feet of the upper ground, near the water (in some cases they take the top earth), throws into a tin pan or wooden bowl a shovel full of loose dirt and stones; then placing the basin an inch or two under water, continues to stir up the dirt with his hand in such a manner that the running water will carry off the light earths, occasionally, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>"The size of the gold depends in some measure upon the river from which it is taken; the banks of one river having larger grains of gold than another.  I presume more than one half of the gold put into pans or machines is washed out and goes down the stream; this is of no consequence to the washers, who care only for the present time.  Some have formed companies of four or five men, and have a rough-made machine put together in a day, which worked to much advantage, yet many prefer to work alone, with a wooden bowl or tin pan, worth fifteen or twenty cents in the States, but eight to sixteen dollars at the gold region.  As the workmen continue, and materials can be obtained, improvements will take place in the mode of obtaining gold; at present it is obtained by standing in the water, and with much severe labour, or such as is called here severe labour.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"How long this gathering of gold by the handful will continue here, or the future effect it will have on California, I cannot say.  Three-fourths of the houses in the town on the bay of San Francisco are deserted.  Houses are sold at the price of the ground lots.  The effects are this week showing themselves in Monterey.  Almost every house I had hired out is given up.  Every blacksmith, carpenter, and lawyer is leaving; brick-yards, saw-mills and ranches are left perfectly alone.  A large number of the volunteers at San Francisco and Sonoma have deserted; some have been retaken and brought back; public and private vessels are losing their crews; my clerks have had 100 per cent. advance offered them on their wages to accept employment.  A complete revolution in the ordinary state of affairs is taking place; both of our newspapers are discontinued from want of workmen and the loss of their agencies; the Alcaldes have left San Francisco, and I believe Sonoma likewise; the former place has not a Justice of the Peace left.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The second Alcalde of Monterey to-day joins the keepers of our principal hotel, who have closed their office and house, and will leave to-morrow for the golden rivers.  I saw on the ground a lawyer who was last year Attorney-General of the King of the Sandwich Islands, digging and washing out his ounce and a half per day; near him can be found most all his brethren of the long robe, working in the same occupation.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"To conclude; my letter is long, but I could not well describe what I have seen in less words, and I now can believe that my account may be doubted.  If the affair proves a bubble, a mere excitement, I know not how we can all be deceived, as we are situated.  Governor Mason and his staff have left Monterey to visit the place in question, and will, I suppose, soon forward to his department his views and opinions on this subject.  Most of the land, where gold has been discovered, is public land; there are on different rivers some private grants.  I have three such purchased in 1846 and 1847, but have not learned that any private lands have produced gold, though they may hereafter do so.  I have the honour, dear sir, to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, "THOMAS O. LARKIN."</P>
125.sgm:<P>DESERTION FROM THE SHIPS.--"We collate from other sources several other interesting letters and documents, and which will be found well worth perusal.<LB>"Monterey, Sept. 15, 1848.<LB>"Messrs. Grinnell, Minturn, and Co.:<LB>"Sirs--I embrace this opportunity to inform you of my new situation, which is bad enough.  All hands have left me but two; they will stay till the cargo is landed and ballast in, then they will go.  Both mates will leave in a few days, and then I will have only the two boys, and I am fearful that they will run.  I have got all landed but 900 barrels; on Monday I shall get off ballast if the weather is good.  There's no help to be got at any price.  The store-ship that sailed from here ten days ago took three of my men at 100 dollars per month; there is nothing that anchors here but what loses their men.  I have had a hard time in landing the cargo; I go in the boat every load.  If I can get it on shore I shall save the freight.  As for the ship she will lay here for a long time, for there's not the least chance of getting a crew.  The coasters are giving 100 dollars per month.  All the ships at San Francisco have stripped and laid up.  The Flora, of New London, is at San Francisco; all left.  You probably have heard of the situation of things here.  A sailor will be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:up at the mines for two months, work on his own account, and come down with from two to three thousand dollars, and those that go in parties do much better.  I have been offered 20 dollars per day to go, by one of the first men here, and work one year.  It is impossible for me to give you any idea of the gold that is got here.  Yours respectfully,<LB>"CHRISTOPHER ALLEN,<LB>"Captain of the ship Isaac Walton.',</P>
125.sgm:<P>Another letter dated St. Francisco, September 1st, contains the following:--</P>
125.sgm:<P>"A day or two ago the Flora, Captain Potter, of New London, anchored in Whaleman's Harbour, on the opposite side of the Bay.  Yesterday the captain, fearing he would lose all his men, weighed anchor, intending to go to sea.  After getting under weigh, the crew, finding the ship was heading out, refused to do duty, and the captain was forced to return and anchor here.  Last night nine of the crew gagged the watch, lowered one of the boats, and rowed off.  They have not been heard of since, and are now probably half way to the gold region.  The Flora is twenty-six months out, with only 750 bbls. of oil.  Every vessel that comes in here now is sure to lose her crew, and this state of things must continue until the squadron arrives, when, if the men-o'-war-men do not run off too, merchant-men may retain their crews.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The whale-ship Euphrates, of New Bedford, left here a few weeks since, for the United States, to touch on the coast of Chili to recruit.  The Minerva, Captain Perry, of New Bedford, has abandoned the whaling business, and is now on his way hence to Valparaiso for a cargo of merchandise.  Although two large ships, four barks, and eight or ten brigs and schooners have arrived here since my return from the mineral country, about four weeks since, with large cargoes of merchandise, their entire invoices have been sold.  Vessels are daily arriving from the islands and ports upon the coast, laden with goods and passengers, the latter destined for the gold-washings.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Much sickness prevails among the gold-diggers; many have left the ground sick, and many more have discontinued their labours for the present, and gone into more healthy portions of the country, intending to return after the sickly season has passed.  From the best information I can obtain, there are from two to three thousand persons at work at the gold-washings with the same success as heretofore."<LB>THE DIGGINGS.--Extract of a letter from Monterey, Aug. 29.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"At present the people are running over the country and picking it out of the earth here and there, just as a thousand hogs, let loose in a forest, would root up ground-nuts.  Some get eight or ten ounces a-day, and the least active one or two.  They make the most who employ the wild Indians to hunt it for them.  There is one man who has sixty Indians in his employ; his profits are a dollar a-minute.  The wild Indians know nothing of its value, and wonder what the pale-faces want to do with it; they will give an ounce of it for the same weight of coined silver, or a thimbleful of glass beads, or a glass of grog.  And white men themselves often give an ounce of it, which is worth at our mint 18 dollars, or more, for a bottle of brandy, a bottle of soda-powders, or a plug of tobacco.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"As to the quantity which the diggers get, take a few facts as evidence.  I know seven men who worked seven weeks and two days, Sundays excepted, on Feather River; they employed on an average fifty Indians, and got out in these seven weeks and two days 275 pounds of pure gold.  I know the men, and have seen the gold, and know what they state to be a fact--so stick a pin there.  I know ten other men who worked ten days in company, employed no Indians, and averaged in these ten days 1500 dollars each; so stick another pin there.  I know another man who got out of a basin in a rock, not larger than a wash-bowl, two pounds and a half of gold in fifteen minutes; so stick another pin there!  Not one of these statements would I believe, did I not know the men personally, and know them to be plain matter-of-fact men--men who open a vein of gold just as coolly as you would a potato-hill."</P>
125.sgm:<P>ASSAY OF THE GOLD.--Lieutenant Loeser having arrived at Washington with specimens of the gold from the diggings, the following account of its quality appeared in the "Washington Union," the government organ:--</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Understanding last evening that the lieutenant had arrived in this city, and had deposited in the War Office the precious specimens he had brought with him, we called to see them, and to free our mind from all hesitation as to the genuineness of the metal.  We had seen doubts expressed in some of our exchange papers; and we readily admit that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>ANOTHER ASSAY.--The following is the report of an assay of Californian gold dust, received by Mr. T. O. Larkin, United States consul at Monterey.<LB>"New York, Dec. 8, 1848.<LB>"Sir,--I have assayed the portion of gold dust, or metal, from California, which you sent me, and the result shows that it is fully equal to any found in our Southern gold mines.  I return you 10 3/4 grains out of the 12 which I have tested, the value of which is 45 cents.  It is 21 1/2 carats fine--within half a carat of the quality of English sovereigns or American eagles--and is almost ready to go to the mint.  The finest gold metal we get is from Africa, which is 22 1/2 to 23 carats fine.  In Virginia we have mines where the quality of the gold is much inferior--some of it so low as 19 carats--and in Georgia the mines produce it nearly 22 carats fine.  The gold of California, which I have now assayed, is fully equal to that of any, and much superior to some produced from the mines in our Southern States.<HSEP>"JOHN WARWICK,<LB>"Smelter and refiner, 17, John-Street."</P>
125.sgm:<P>INCONVENIENCES OF TOO MUCH GOLD.--The following letter (January 12) from Captain Fulsom, of the United States Service, writing from San Francisco, confirms the fact of the difficulty of procuring servants, or indeed manual assistance of any description:--</P>
125.sgm:<P>"All sorts of labour is got at enormous rates of compensation.  Common clerks and salesmen in the stores about town often receive as high as 2500 dollars and their board.  The principal waiter in the hotel where I board is paid 1700 dollars per year, and several others from 1200 to 1500 dollars!  I fortunately have an Indian boy, or I should be forced to clean my own boots, for I could not employ a good body servant for the full amount of my salary as a government officer.  I believe every army officer in California, with one or two exceptions, would have resigned last summer could they have done it, and been free at once to commence for themselves.  But the war was not then terminated, and no one could hope to communicate with Washington correspondents, to get an answer in less than six, and perhaps ten, months.  For some time last summer (August and July) the officers at Monterey were entirely without servants; and the governor (Colonel Mason) actually took his turn in cooking for his mess."</P>
125.sgm:<P>EFFECTS OF THIS DISCOVERY ON THE UNITED STATES.--The following remarks upon the influence of this immense discovery, which appeared in a popular New York journal on the 23rd January, proves the extent of impression produced upon society in the States by the intelligence of this new source of natural wealth:--</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The news (February 12) from California will attract the observation of the whole community,  A spirit is generated from those discoveries, which is more active, more intense, and more widely spread, than that which agitated Europe in the time of Columbus, Cortez, and Pizarro.  There seems to be no doubt that, in a short time--probably less than two years--those mines can be made to produce 100,000,000 dollars per year.  The region is the most extensive of the kind in the world, being 800 miles in length, and 100 in width, with every indication that gold exists in large native masses, in the rocks and mountains Sierra Nevada.  But these vast gold mines of the are not the only mineral discoveries that have been made.  The quicksilver in the same region seems to be as abundant as the gold, so that there are approximated to each other two metals, which will have a most important effect and utility in making the gold mines more valuable.  Heretofore the gold and silver mines of Mexico and Peru have been valuable to Spain, because she possessed a monopoly of the quicksilver mines at Almaden in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>DISORDERS IN THE GOLD DISTRICT.--Up to the close of the year the accounts were with few exceptions favourable to the morals and habits of the masses of adventurers congregated on the banks of the San Francisco and the vicinity; subsequently the statements on these points began to change, and every letter noticed some robbery or murder, generally both, as of frequent occurrence, and at length they became so common that there was neither protection for life nor property.  The following ominous intelligence, which appeared in the <HI REND="italics">Washington Union</HI>
125.sgm: (the organ of government), created an immense sensation.  It was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:the substance of a letter from San Francisco, dated the end of December, addressed to Commodore Jones.  "This letter (according to the <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
125.sgm:<P>LATEST ACCOUNTS ( <HI REND="italics">from the New York Press</HI>
125.sgm:<P>A private letter says the produce of a vineyard of 1,000 vines brought 1,200 dollars; the vegetables of a garden of one acre, near San Francisco, 1,500 dollars.  A snow-storm had covered the gold-diggings, and the people were leaving, on account of sickness, intending to return in the spring, which is said to be the best season for the gold harvest.  Labourers, according to one letter-writer, demanded a dollar an hour!  Adventurers continued to arrive at San Francisco from all parts of the world; and several persons, who were reported to be laden down with gold, were anxious to return to the United States, but could not very readily find a conveyance, as the sailors deserted the ships immediately on their arrival in port.</P>
125.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIAN GOLD 250 YEARS AGO.--Pinkerton, in an account of Drake's discovery of a part of California, to which he gave the name of New Albion, states:--"The country, too, if we can depend upon what Sir Francis Drake or his chaplain say, may appear worth the seeking and the keeping, since they assert that <HI REND="italics">the land is so rich in gold and silver, that upon the slightest turning it up with a spade or pick-axe, these rich metals plainly appear mixed with the mould</HI>
125.sgm:.  It may be objected that this looks a little fabulous; but to this two satisfactory answers may be given: the first is, that later discoveries on the same coast confirm the truth of it, which for anything I can see ought to put the fact out of question; but if any doubts should remain, my second answer should overturn these.  For I say next, that the country of New <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>EFFECTS OF THE CALIFORNIAN NEWS IN ENGLAND.--A glance at the advertisements in the daily papers (says the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
125.sgm:<P>PROBABLE EFFECT ON THE CURRENCY IN EUROPE.--In the description of gold mines, and rivers flowing over golden sands, we must be prepared for a little over-colouring.  Such discoveries have always excited sanguine hopes, and dreams of exhaustless wealth; but if the accounts--and they really appear well authenticated--of the golden treasures of California be true, quantities of the most precious of all metals are found--not buried in mines, but scattered on the surface of the earth, and the fortunate adventurer may enrich himself beyond the dreams of avarice, almost without labour, without capital, and with no care but that which cupidity generates.  The principle that the value of the precious metals, like other products of industry, is determined primarily by the cost of production, and then by scarcity, ideas of utility, and convenience, seems to be neutralized by this new discovery; and it becomes a curious question, how far it may affect the value of gold and silver in Europe.  If the abundance of gold flowing from America be such as to exceed the demand, the value of gold will fall, and the price of all other commodities relatively rise, and the relative proportion between gold and silver be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:disturbed so as to affect the standards of value in each country and the par of exchange between one and another.  The productiveness of the silver mines, there is no doubt, is greater and more regular than those of gold; but the enormous increase of the silver currency on the Continent, in the United States, and even in India, and our own colonies, has kept the price of silver a little below five shillings an ounce.  On the other hand the English standard of value being gold only, the drain of gold is generally towards England, while that of silver is towards the Continent.  We do not doubt that the English Mint price of gold, &pound;3 17s. 10 1/2d. an ounce, and the price at which the Bank of England are compelled to purchase, &pound;3 17s. 9d. an ounce, are causes which not only regulate, but, within certain limits, determine, the price of gold throughout the world.  Suppose, for a moment, the circulation of England, exceeding thirty millions and the Bank store of fifteen millions, to be thrown on the markets of Europe, by an alteration of the standard of value--how material would be the fall in price!  It is equally obvious that England would be first and most materially affected by any large and sudden production of her standard of value; for though America would be enriched by the discovery of the precious metals within her own territories, it is only because she would possess a larger fund to exchange for more useful and necessary products of labour.  The value of silver would not fall, assuming the supply and demand to be equalised, but gold would fall in relation to silver, and the existing proportion (about 15 to 1 could) no longer be maintained.  Then prices would rise of all articles now estimated in our currency-- <HI REND="italics">i. e.</HI>
125.sgm: an ounce of gold would exchange for less than at present.  And, assuming the price of silver to keep up as heretofore, about 5s. an ounce, our sovereign would be valued less in other countries, and all exchange operations would be sensibly affected.  The only countervailing influence in the reduction of gold to, say, only double the price of silver, would be an increased consumption in articles of taste and manufacture, which, however, can only be speculative and uncertain.  It is said by accounts from California that five hundred miles lie open to the avarice of gold-hunters, and that some adventurers have collected from 1,200 to 1,800 dollars a-day; the probable average of each man's earnings being from 8 to 10 dollars a-day, or, let us say, &pound;2, The same authority avers there is room and verge enough for the profitable working, to that extent, of a hundred thousand persons.  And it is likely enough before long that such a number may be tempted to seek their easily acquired fortune in the golden sands of El Sacramento and elsewhere.  Now two pounds a-day for each man would amount to &pound;200,000, which, multiplied by 300 working days, will give &pound;60,000,000 a-year!  That is, &pound;600,000,000 in ten years!  A fearful amount of gold dust, and far more than enough to disturb the equanimity of ten thousand political economists.  The gold utensils found among the simple-minded and philosophic Peruvians (who wondered at the eager desire of Christians for what they scarcely valued), will be esteemed trifles with our golden palaces, and halls paved with gold, when California shall have poured this vast treasure into Europe.  Assuming in round numbers each 2,000 lbs., or troy ton, to be equivalent to &pound;100,000 sterling, the above amount in one year would represent <HI REND="italics">six hundred</HI>
125.sgm: tons, and in ten years <HI REND="italics">six thousand</HI>
125.sgm:<P>PROHIBITION FROM THE GOVERNMENT.--It would seem that the government have at length taken measures to preserve the gold districts from the bands of foreign adventurers who are daily pouring in from every quarter.  Towards the end of January we learn that General Smith had been sent out by the United States government, with orders to enforce the laws against all persons, not citizens of the States, who should be found trespassing on the public lands.  Official notice to this effect was issued to the American consul at Panama and other places, in order that emigrants on their way to California might be made aware of the determination of the government previous to their arrival.  The punishment for illegal trespassing is fine and imprisonment.  It was not known at the date of the last intelligence from California how this notification, which makes such an important change in the prospects of the numerous bodies now on their way thither, has been received by the population assembled at the land of promise.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>THE following general view of the nature of the country which divides the United States from California is taken from a narrative, published by Lieutenant Emory, of a journey from the Arkansas to the newly annexed territory of the United States.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The country," says the lieutenant, "from the Arkansas to the Colorado, a distance of over 1200 miles, in its adaptation to agriculture, has peculiarities which must for ever stamp itself upon the population which inhabits it.  All North Mexico, embracing New Mexico, Chihuahua, Sonora, and the Californias, as far north as the Sacramento, is, as far as the best information goes, the same in the physical character of its surface, and differs but little in climate and products.  In no part of this vast tract can the rains from heaven be relied upon, to any extent, for the cultivation of the soil.  The earth is destitute of trees, and in great part also of any vegetation whatever.  A few feeble streams flow in different directions from the great mountains, which in many places traverse this region.  These streams are separated, sometimes by plains, and sometimes by mountains, without water and without vegetation, and may be called deserts, so far as they perform any useful part in the sustenance of animal life.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The whole extent of country, except on the margin of streams, is destitute of forest trees.  The Apaches, a very numerous race, and the Navajoes, are the chief occupants, but there are many minor bands, who, unlike the Apaches and Navajoes, are not nomadic, but have fixed habitations.  Amongst the most remarkable of these are the Soones, most of whom are said to be Albinoes.  The latter cultivate the soil, and live in peace with their more numerous and savage neighbours.  Departing from the ford of the Colorado in the direction of Sonora, there is a fearful desert to encounter.  Alter, a small town, with a Mexican garrison, is the nearest settlement.  All accounts concur in representing the journey as one of extreme hardship, and even peril.  The distance is not exactly known, but it is variously represented at from four to seven days' journey.  Persons bound for Sonora from California, who do not mind a circuitous route, should ascend the Gila as far as the Pimos village, and thence penetrate the province by way of Tucson.  At the ford, the Colorado is 1,500 feet wide, and flows at the rate of a mile and a half per hour.  Its greatest depth in the channel, at the ford where we crossed, is four feet.  The banks are low, not more than four feet high. and, judging from indications, sometimes, though not frequently, overflowed.  Its general appearance at this point is much like that of the Arkansas, with its turbid waters and shifting sand islands."</P>
125.sgm:<P>The narrative of Lieut. Emory, of his journey from this point across the Desert of California, becomes highly interesting and characteristic.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">November</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"Our course now inclined a few degrees more to the north, and at 10, A.M., we found a large patch of grama, where we halted for an hour, and then pursued our way over the plains covered with fragments of lava, traversed at intervals by sand buttes, until 4, P.M., when, after travelling 24 miles, we reached the Alamo or cotton-wood.  At this point, the Spaniards informed us, that, failing to find water, they had gone a league to the west, in pursuit of their horses, where they found a running stream.  We accordingly sent parties to search, but neither the water nor their trail could be found.  Neither was there any cotton-wood at the Alamo, as its name would signify; but it was nevertheless the place, the tree having probably been covered by the encroachments of the sand, which here terminates in a bluff 40 feet high, making the arc of a great circle convexing to the north.  Descending this bluff, we found in what had been the channel of a stream, now overgrown with a few ill-conditioned mezquite, a large hole where persons had evidently dug for water.  It was necessary to halt to rest our animals, and the time was occupied in deepening this hole, which, after a strong struggle, showed signs of water.  An old champagne basket, used by one of the officers as a pannier, was lowered in the hole, to prevent the crumbling of the sand.  After many efforts to keep out the caving sand, a basket-work of willow twigs effected the object, and, much to the joy of all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>"When the messes were supplied, the firmness of the banks gave hopes that the animals might be watered, and each party was notified to have their animals in waiting; the important business of watering then commenced, upon the success of which depended the possibility of their advancing with us a foot further.  Two buckets for each animal were allowed.  At 10, A.M., when my turn came, Captain Moore had succeeded, by great exertions, in opening another well, and the one already opened began to flow more freely, in consequence of which, we could afford to give each animal as much as it could drink.  The poor brutes, none of which had tasted water in forty-eight hours, and some not for the last sixty, clustered round the well and scrambled for precedence.  At 12 o'clock I had watered all my animals, thirty-seven in number, and turned over the well to Captain Moore.  The animals still had an aching void to fill, and all night was heard the munching of sticks, and their piteous cries for more congenial food.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">November</HI>
125.sgm: 27 <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"The basin of the lake, as well as I could judge at night, is about three-quarters of a mile long and half a mile wide.  The water had receded to a pool, diminished to one half its size, and the approach to it was through a thick soapy quagmire.  It was wholly unfit for man or brute, and we studiously kept the latter from it, thinking that the use of it would but aggravate their thirst.  One or two of the men came in late, and, rushing to the lake, threw themselves down and took many swallows before discovering their mistake; but the effect was not injurious except that it increased their thirst.  A few mezquite trees and a chenopodiaceous shrub bordered the lake, and on these our mules muched till they had sufficiently refreshed themselves, when the call to saddle was sounded, and we groped silently our way in the dark.  The stoutest animals now began to stagger, and when day dawned scarcely a man was seen mounted.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"With the sun rose a heavy fog from the south-west, no doubt from the gulf, and, sweeping towards us, enveloped us for two or three hours, wetting our blankets and giving relief to the animals.  Before it had disappeared we came to a patch of sun-burned grass.  When the fog had entirely dispersed we found ourselves entering a gap in the mountains, which had been before us for four days.  The plain was crossed, but we had not yet found water.  The first valley we reached was dry, and it was not till 12 o'clock, M., that we struck the Cariso (cane) creek, within half a mile of one of its sources, and although so close to the source, the sands had already absorbed much of its water, and left but little running.  A mile or two below, the creek entirely disappears.  We halted, having made fifty-four miles in the two days, at the source, a magnificent spring, twenty or thirty feet in diameter, highly impregnated with sulphur, and medicinal in its properties.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The desert over which we had passed, ninety miles from water to water, is an immense triangular plain, bounded on one side by the Colorado, on the west by the Cordilleras of California, the coast chain of mountains which now encirlces us, extending from the Sacramento river to the southern extremity of Lower California, and on the north-east by achain of mountains, running southeast and northwest.  It is chiefly covered with floating sand, the surface of which in various places is white, with diminutive spinelas, and everywhere over the whole surface is found the large and soft muscle shell.  I have noted the only two patches of grass found during the `jornada.'  There were scattered, at wide intervals, the Palafoxia linearis, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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125.sgm:<P>"The southern termination of this desert is bounded by the Tecate&acute; chain of mountains and the Colorado; but its northern and eastern boundaries are undefined, and I should suppose from the accounts of trappers, and others, who have attempted the passage from California to the Gila by a more northern route, that it extends many days' travel beyond the chain of barren mountains which bound the horizon in that direction.  The portal to the mountains through which we passed was formed by immense buttes of yellow clay and sand, with large flakes of mica and seams of gypsum.  Nothing could be more forlorn and desolate in appearance.  The gypsum had given some consistency to the sand buttes, which were washed into fantastic figures.  One ridge formed apparently a complete circle, giving it the appearance of a crater; and although some miles to the left, I should have gone to visit it, supposing it to be a crater, but my mule was sinking with thirst, and water was yet at some distance.  Many animals were left on the road to die of thirst and hunger, in spite of the generous efforts of the men to bring them to the spring.  More than one was brought up, by one man tugging at the halter and another pushing up the brute, by placing his shoulder against its buttocks.  Our most serious loss, perhaps, was that of one or two fat mares and colts brought with us for food; for, before leaving camp, Major Swords found in a concealed place one of the best pack mules slaughtered, and the choice bits cut from his shoulders and flanks, stealthily done by some mess less provident than others.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Nov</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"We rode for miles through thickets of the centennial plant, Agave Americana, and found one in full bloom.  The sharp thorns terminating every leaf of this plant were a great annoyance to our dismounted and wearied men, whose legs were now almost bare.  A number of these plants were cut by the soldiers, and the body of them used as food.  The day was intensely hot, and the sand deep; the animals, inflated with water and rushes, gave way by scores; and although we advanced only sixteen miles, many did not arrive at camp until 10 o'clock at night.  It was a feast day for the wolves, which followed in packs close on our track, seizing our deserted brutes, and making the air resound with their howls as they battled for the carcases.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">December</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"The town consists of a few adobe houses, two or three of which only have plank floors.  It is situated at the foot of a high hill on a sand flat, two miles wide, reaching from the head of San Diego Bay to False Bay.  A high promontory, of nearly the same width, runs into the sea four or five miles, and is connected by the flat with the main land.  The road to the hide-houses leads on the east side of this promontory, and abreast of them the frigate Congress and the sloop Portsmouth are at anchor.  The hide-houses are a collection of store-houses where the hides of cattle are packed before being shipped, this article forming the only trade of the little town.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The bay is a narrow arm of the sea indenting the land some four or five miles, easily defended, and having twenty feet of water at the lowest tide.  The rise is five feet, making the greatest water twenty-five feet.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Standing on the hill which overlooks the town, and looking to the north-east, I saw the mission of San Diego, a fine large building now deserted.  The Rio San Diego runs under ground in a direct course from the mission to the town, and, sweeping around the hill, discharges itself into the bay.  Its original debouche was into False bay, where meeting the waters rolling in from the seaward, a bar was formed by the deposit of sand, making the entrance of False Bay impracticable.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
125.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
125.sgm:<HI REND="italics">January</HI>
125.sgm:<P>"The walls are adobe, and the roofs of well-made tile.  It was built about sixty years since by the Indians of the country, under the guidance of a zealous priest.  At that time the Indians were very numerous, and under the absolute sway of the missionaries.  These missionaries at one time bid fair to christianize the Indians of California.  Under grants from the Mexican government, they collected them into missions, built immense houses, and began successfully to till the soil by the hands of the Indians for the benefit of the Indians.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The habits of the priests, and the avarice of the military rulers of the territory, however, soon converted these missions into instruments of oppression and slavery of the Indian race.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The revolution of 1836 saw the downfall of the priests, and most of these missions passed by fraud into the hands of private individuals, and with them the Indians were transferred as serfs of the land.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"This race, which, in our country, has never been reduced to slavery, is in that degraded condition throughout California, and does the only labour performed in the country.  Nothing can exceed their present degradation."</P>
125.sgm:<P>The general closing remarks of Lieutenant Emory are as follow:</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The region extending from the head of the Gulf of California to the parallel of the Pueblo, or Ciudad de los Angeles, is the only portion not heretofore covered by my own notes and journal, or by the notes and journals of other scientific expeditions fitted out by the United States.  The journals and published accounts of these several expeditions combined will give definite ideas of all those portions of California susceptible of cultivation or settlement.  From this remark is to be excepted the vast basin watered by the Colorado, and the country lying between that river and the range of Cordilleras, represented as running east of the Tulare lakes, and south of the parallel of 36&deg;, and the country between the Colorado and Gila rivers.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Of these regions nothing is known except from the reports of trappers, and the speculations of geologists.  As far as these accounts go, all concur in representing it as a waste of sand and rock, unadorned with vegetation, poorly watered, and unfit, it is believed, for any of the useful purposes of life.  A glance at the map will show what an immense area is embraced in these boundaries; and, notwithstanding the oral accounts in regard to it, it is difficult to bring the mind to the belief in the existence of such a sea of waste and desert; when every other grand division of the earth presents some prominent feature in the economy of nature, administering to the wants of man.  Possibly this unexplored region may be filled with valuable minerals.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"Where irrigation can be had in this country, the produce of the soil is abundant beyond description.  All the grains and fruits of the temperate zones, and many of those of the tropical, flourish luxuriantly.  Descending from the heights of San Barnardo to the Pacific one meets every degree of temperature.  Near the coast, the winds prevailing from the south-west in winter, and from the north-west in summer, produce a great uniformity of temperature, and the climate is perhaps unsurpassed in salubrity.  With the exception of a very few cases of ague and fever of a mild type, sickness is unknown.</P>
125.sgm:<P>"The season of the year at which we visited the country was unfavourable to obtaining a knowledge of its botany.  The vegetation, mostly deciduous, had gone to decay, and no flowers nor seeds were collected.  The country generally is entirely destitute of trees.  Along the principal range of the mountains are a few live oaks, sycamore and pine; now and then, but very rarely, the sycamore and cotton-wood occur in the champaign country, immediately on the margins of the streams.  Wild oats everywhere cover the surface of the hills, and these, with the wild mustard and carrots, furnish good pasturage to the immense herds of cattle which form the staple of California.  Of the many fruits capable of being produced with success, by culture and irrigation, the grape is perhaps that which is brought nearest to perfection.  Experienced wine-growers and Europeans, pronounce this portion of California unequalled for the quality of its wines.<LB>THE END.</P>
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126.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-126</TITLE>
126.sgm:<TITLE>Two years in California.  By Mary Cone: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
126.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
126.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
126.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
126.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
126.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
126.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
126.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-848</LCCN>
126.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
126.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>5383</COPYRIGHT>
126.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P><illus entity="a126-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE GOLDEN GATE.  PAGE 147.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>TWO YEARS</P>
126.sgm:<P>IN</P>
126.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA.</P>
126.sgm:<P>BY</P>
126.sgm:<P>MARY CONE.</P>
126.sgm:<P>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.</P>
126.sgm:<P>CHICAGO:</P>
126.sgm:<P>S. C. GRIGGS AND COMPANY.</P>
126.sgm:<P>1876.</P>
126.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1876, <LB>BY S. C. GRIGGS AND COMPANY.</P>
126.sgm:<P>KNIGHT &amp; LEONARD, PRINTERS, CHICAGO.  </P>
126.sgm:<P>Electrotyped by A. ZEESE &amp; CO.,  Chicago.</P>
126.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>TO <LB>COL. JOHN MILLS,</P>
126.sgm:<P>THIS BOOK IS INSCRIBED BY <LB>THE AUTHOR,</P>
126.sgm:<P>WITH REGRET THAT THE TRIBUTE IS NOT <LB>MORE WORTHY OF HIM AT WHOSE <LB>FEET IT IS LAID.</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>THE "Star of Empire" that has been so long traveling on its westward way has at last reached the end of its journey, and taken a fixed position.  It stands over a fair land; the best, perhaps, all things considered, that it has looked down upon in all its course.  Not that perfection is found even here.  It is the law in this world that good shall never be unmixed.  But, in the case of California, when the advantages and disadvantages are laid in the opposite sides of the balance, the former will be found to weigh down the latter to a degree that is scarcely to be seen elsewhere.</P>
126.sgm:<P>There are just now important reasons for directing attention to this comparatively new State.  These are found in the disturbances that are now prevailing in the commercial and industrial interests in the eastern and older parts of the country.  The wheel of fortune is revolving with unusual rapidity.  Those who were at the top yesterday are at the bottom to-day.  To those who are by these changes despoiled of home and of goods, new conditions may be desirable, and they may be looking with eager eyes to see where they can best find other foot-holds from whence they can make a fresh <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The permanency of first impressions is strikingly shown by the very common impression in regard to California.  It was first known to the world as a gold-producing country, and men are slow to learn that while gold continues to be a very considerable product it is far exceeded in value and extent by other industries.  The gold product is now principally obtained by quartz-mining, which requires large capital to conduct it.  There is no longer any furor connected with the business, nor are fortunes now made in a day.  Mining is conducted as a legitimate business, of which the average yield has been, for the last few years, about twenty millions of dollars per annum.  As a bullion-producing State, including gold and silver, California has fallen into the second place--it is outranked by Nevada, which, in 1875, produced more than twice as much as the Golden State.  But the increase in agricultural products is more than an offset for the falling off in this direction.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>The increase in agricultural products has been so rapid as to seem almost a marvel.  Until 1861 flour was imported for home use; now California yields the largest wheat product of any State in the Union, and is second only to New York in the production, of fruit.  The yield in wine for 1875 was ten millions of gallons.  One-fifth of all the wool grown in the United States is furnished by California; during the current year it is estimated that the product will reach the enormous amount of fifty millions of pounds.  Then, the possible industries are so many and various that it would seem impossible for anybody to fail to find something to suit his taste and his capacities.</P>
126.sgm:<P>There has been much that was partial and untrue written in regard to California.  The writer of the following pages lays no claim to infallibility, but does claim that during the two years spent in California, she made an honest effort to see things as they really were, and has tried to describe them as they appeared.  Bought up by no corporation, never dead-headed, protected by insignificance from all ovations whatsoever, there was nothing to cast a glamour over the eyes or bias the judgment except so far as the loving-kindness of friends brought content to the heart, and opened pleasanter and fuller facilities for seeing and knowing.  Great care was taken to examine and compare testimony, and sift out, if possible, the chaff.  To what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The author takes pleasure in acknowledging her indebtedness to "The Natural Wealth of California," by T. F. Cronise, for valuable information embodied in this work; also to a lecture by the Hon. S. Garfield for hints in regard to climate, and to The California Immigrant Union for the prompt and generous manner in which they have responded to appeals for aid.</P>
126.sgm:<P>M. C.</P>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Marietta, Ohio, April, 1876</HI>
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126.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>CLIMATE<HSEP>1<LB>Temperature at Olympia and San Francisco; difference in climate between the eastern and western sides of the continent; currents of air; influence of the Pacific; course of winds; influence of the Gulf stream; Japan current.<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>RAIN-FALL<HSEP>9<LB>Variation in rain-fall; secret of the diversity; effect of the Pacific winds and mountain ranges; blighting north wind; land and sea climate; climate of San Francisco; affected by situation; trend of coast; sea-breeze; its delicious, healthful properties; balance between sea-breeze and sunshine; rainy season; transparent atmosphere; mean annual temperature on the coast; trade winds; heat in the valleys; absence of thunder-storms.<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>HISTORY<HSEP>24<LB>Signification of the term California; discovery of the country; of the bay of San Francisco; Geography of the eighteenth century; Spaniards on the Pacific coast; their missionary zeal; establishment of missions in Upper California; patriarchal system; mode of converting the Indians; their subjection to slavery; their painful toil; their scanty reward; wealth of the missions; exports; tallow and hides; trade with Boston; luxury of the Spaniards; dwellings; idleness; decay of the Spanish power; impoverishment of the missions; oppression of the Indians; their rapid decrease; fading before the pale-faces.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>CHAPTER IV.<LB>GEOGRAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY<HSEP>41<LB>Three parallel mountain ranges in the United States; overland route to California; Platte river; Rocky Mountains; rivers flowing into the Pacific; Sierra Nevada mountains; their mineral wealth; valleys and peaks; Coast range; scenery; Monte Diablo range; union with Nevadas and Coast range.<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>52<LB>Area of the State; southern California; San Diego county; Colorado desert; dry lake and hot springs; sudden issue of a spring; San Diego city; the old mission; prospects of the city; climate; San Bernardino county; Death Valley; Soda lake; town of San Bernardino; climate and products of the country; Riverside colony; crops and irrigation; Los Angeles county; Americans and Californians; orange culture; value of the fruit; cost of cultivation; orange orchards; sheep raising; fruit farm; vineyards; German colony; San Buenaventura; Santa Clara valley; oil regions; stranded whale; configuration of coast; Santa Barbara; oil spring in the ocean; thanksgiving sermon; pepper tree; olives; pickling olives; making olive oil; old olive trees; church architecture; patriarchal grape-vine; Santa Barbara; adobe houses; population; route by sea and land; an old settler; San Luis Obispo; Salinas valley; rapid riding; California stage drivers.<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>THE GREAT VALLEY<HSEP>100<LB>The Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers; rain-fall; drouth; crops; Tulare lake; irrigation in the Old World; San Joaquin King's River Canal and Irrigation Company; facilities for irrigation; the Great Valley; advantages of canals and ditches.<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>RECLAMATION<HSEP>110<LB>Fertility of reclaimed lands; tule lands.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>NORTHERN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>114<LB>The redwood; Humboldt county; a charming stage ride; Eureka; Mount Shasta; lower soda springs; a beautiful dayspring; Castle rocks; Sacramento river; gray mountains; Pitt river; stage robbery; Mount Shasta.<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>A RANCH IN THE UPPER SACRAMENTO VALLEY<HSEP>127<LB>Origin of the Kern ranch; Sacramento valley; cutting grain; sowing grain; laborers; wild oats; cattle and hogs; sheep growing; products; climate.<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>A FRUIT RANCH ON THE SACRAMENTO RIVER<HSEP>136<LB>Sending fruit to market; prices of fruits; tule lands; dairy products; Chinese laborers.<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>A CHAPTER FOR TOURISTS<HSEP>142<LB>Climatic conditions; choice of seasons; route to southern California; sights in San Francisco; Cliff House; Oakland; University of California; bay of San Francisco; Golden Gate; San Jose&acute;; a trip to Monte Diablo; the Geysers; chicken broth; Mount St. Helena; Pluton can&tilde;on; Geyser can&tilde;on; Foss, the driver; Pescadero; Santa Cruz; Ying, the Chinaman; Lake Tahoe; cost of living.<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>A CHAPTER FOR SETTLERS<HSEP>166<LB>Necessity of energy and economy; fruit raising; large ranch system; jute wheat sacks; cotton raising; rice culture; coffee; tea; dairy business; sheep raising; emigrating in colonies; skilled labor; security of property; school privileges.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>THE CHINAMAN IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP>177<LB>Value of his help; China self-civilized; antiquity of its civilization; Chinese journalism; Confucius; his doctrine; false estimate of woman; fidelity; versatility; Chinese companies; festivals; new year; Chinese theatres; Chinese temples; gods and goddesses; Rwau Tae; mode of worship.<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>A TRIP TO THE YOSEMITE<HSEP>196<LB>Distance from San Francisco; scenery by the way; White and Hatch's; Clark's; the Big Trees; the Mariposa grove; "Alek"; solitude of the trees; Grizzly Giant; snow plant; horseback riding; "Jocko"; music of the pines; Peregoy's; picturesque cavalcade; Inspiration Point; entrance to the valley; Yosemite fall; El Capitan; Legend of Tu-tock-a-nulah; Bridal Veil fall; Cathedral rocks; Three Brothers; Sentinel Rock; Half-Dome; Mirror lake; vibrations of Yosemite fall; western exit from the valley; Merced river; Vernal fall; Nevada falls; Cloud's Rest; a disappointing lunch; last view from Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome; Captain Folsom, the guide; parting praise of Alek; origin of the valley; Hetch-hetchy valley; expense of the tour to the Yosemite.</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>MAP OF CALIFORNIA<HSEP>FRONT<LB>THE GOLDEN GATE<HSEP>FRONTISPIECE<LB>THE OLD MISSION CHURCH<HSEP>OPP. PAGE 30<LB>MIRROR LAKE, WATKINS' AND CLOUD'S REST<HSEP>"<HSEP>50<LB>BRIDAL VEIL FALL<HSEP>"<HSEP>74<LB>CATHEDRAL ROCKS<HSEP>"<HSEP>90<LB>SENTINEL ROCK<HSEP>"<HSEP>106<LB>EL CAPITAN (3,300 FEET HIGH)<HSEP>"<HSEP>130<LB>THE DEVIL'S CAN&tilde;ON, VIEW LOOKING UP<HSEP>"<HSEP>154<LB>VERNAL FALLS (350 FEET HIGH)<HSEP>"<HSEP>170<LB>THE YOSEMITE FALLS<HSEP>"<HSEP>186<LB>ALLEY IN CHINESE QUARTER<HSEP>"<HSEP>194<LB>GENERAL VIEW OF THE YOSEMITE<HSEP>"<HSEP>198<LB>PLAN OF THE YOSEMITE VALLEY<HSEP>"<HSEP>202<LB>THE SENTINELS, CALAVERAS GROVE<HSEP>"<HSEP>219<LB>A MONSTER<HSEP>"<HSEP>226<LB>NEVADA FALLS (700 FEET HIGH)<HSEP>"<HSEP>230</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>CLIMATE.</P>
126.sgm:<P>TEMPERATURE and rainfall are the essential elements of climate.  This twofold influence affects so potently the conditions of life in California, that some consideration of the subject, in the way of a preliminary, seems quite in order.</P>
126.sgm:<P>That isothermal lines stretched across the continent do not coincide with parallels of latitude is a fact well established, and yet is more generally accepted than understood.  The northern end of the island of Vancouver, in latitude 51&deg;, has the same winter temperature as Norfolk, Va., in latitude 37&deg;.  In Olympia, at the head of Puget Sound, latitude 49&deg;, bouquets containing fifteen or twenty varieties of flowers are gathered from the open grounds to ornament the Christmas tables, and the inhabitants are obliged to send to the Aleutian islands, eighteen hundred miles away, to get their supply of ice for summer use.</P>
126.sgm:<P>San Francisco, in latitude 38&deg;, has a mean annual temperature of 56&deg; Fahrenheit.  All that is implied in this is not at once evident.  There are but eight degrees difference between the mean temperature of the summer and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>In all climatic conditions the difference between the eastern and western sides of the continent is so great that there are few observers so superficial as not to inquire, What occasions this dissimilarity?  Why does nature smile so much more benignantly upon the latter than the former?  The fact that said nature is of the feminine gender, and ought not, therefore, to be expected to have any better reason than "because" for any way of working that she chooses, is scarcely philosophical enough for those who indulge in the luxury of thinking.  When the matter is investigated it will be found, as is often true, that where there seems to be only a whim there is actually a reason.  In the present instance this cause is doubly blessed, for it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>It is well known that heat expands atmospheric air and makes it lighter, and that the lighter air always shows a disposition to rise above the heavier.  Hence when the sun shines vertically, as at the equator, the air becomes heated and ascends, while the colder air from the north and south flows in to fill the vacuum.  If the earth were motionless, there would be, consequently, surface currents from the north and south toward the equator, and upper currents from the equator toward the poles.  But as the rotary motion of the earth from west to east is communicated to its atmosphere, and as in the equatorial regions, where the process of rarefaction is most active, this eastward motion is necessarily the greatest, the combined effects of this rotary motion and the movement to and from the poles is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:to give the air-currents an oblique direction, those on the surface tending from the northeast to the southwest, and the upper currents from the southwest to the northeast.  But this latter wind will not be felt anywhere near the equator, because it is an upper current, and so continues until, by a gradually cooling process, it parts with enough of its caloric to come down and take its place as a surface current.  In the winter, when the sun is south of the equator, this result will happen in about latitude 30&deg;.  In the summer, when the sun is north of the equator, this southwest wind does not come to the surface below latitude 65&deg; or 70&deg;, unless it chance to meet with some unusual obstruction.  These several causes working together--the action of the sun's rays, the turning of the earth upon its axis and its revolution round the sun, together with the inclination of the earth's axis--would be expected, reasoning <HI REND="italics">a priori</HI>
126.sgm:<P>The Pacific ocean being larger than any other even, spherical surface upon the face of our globe is, as a consequence, less affected by irregularities and disturbances from without.  Like all great bodies, it has such confidence in its own power that it can afford to be indifferent to insults that may be offered by outside insignificance, and remain placid under almost any provocation.  Hence it is able to show the legitimate influence of solar heat and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>From the equator to latitude 12&deg; or 15&deg; there is but little wind, and that is variable.  From thence to latitude 25&deg; the northeast trades prevail.  In winter the upper southerly currents begin to come to the surface at about this point, and as they move in a direction opposite to the northeast trades, they beat these back and produce a belt of variable winds that extends to about latitude 32&deg;.  Beyond this limit, northward, the southwest winter winds, which have now reached the surface in full force, sweep forward regularly when not obstructed by surface elevations.  These southwest winds, coming over the even, tranquil surface of the great Pacific ocean, bring with them the mild, equable temper which the ocean has imparted to them, and make cool or warm, according to the needs of the case, whatever part of the continent they reach.  In winter the ocean is warmer, and in summer cooler, than the land contiguous to it, so that in either instance these winds are messengers of comfort to those on the land, bringing heat or cold according to the season.</P>
126.sgm:<P>As the sun moves northward over the equator, and spring gives place to summer, the southwest winter winds gradually die out, or, rather, go northward, leaving first those places where they first appeared, which is about latitude 32&deg;.  In the autumn their course is reversed, their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The southwest winds having followed the sun in its movement toward the south pole, the coast is clear for the northwest winds to show their power.  They improve their opportunity, and from June till October have matters pretty much their own way.  These winds come from a high latitude, and over a small, cold ocean.  As a consequence, they are both cool and dry, and so have power over quite a range of latitude, to modify the influence of a nearly vertical sun, and reduce the temperature from what it would be without their influence to a mean of about 64&deg; in the daytime, and make the nights especially cool and delightful.  When the wind, however, is directly from the north, and comes down over the heated valleys lying inland, and has no chance to be modified by the influence of the ocean, it is a withering, scorching blast, that feels as though it had come straight from the mouth of a furnace.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The other influence that coo&die;perates with these comforting winds, and helps them to produce the delightful climate of the Pacific coast, is the Japan current.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The nature and influence of the gulf stream in the Atlantic ocean have been long understood.  It is due to its beneficence that Great Britain, lying between 50&deg; and 59&deg; north latitude, is redeemed from the cold and sterility of Labrador, which lies, in part, in the same latitude.  It is well-known and established fact that the climate of all Western Europe is far more amiable and kindly than that of countries lying in corresponding parallels of latitude on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The power of the Japan current is as much greater and more beneficent than that of the gulf stream as the ocean in which it has its origin is grander and more placable than that which is the home of the gulf stream.  The current takes its rise in the Indian ocean, being heated by the vertical sun of the tropics, and flows northward along the eastern coast of Asia, warming the countries it finds on its way, and giving particular attention to the comfort of those who dwell on the islands of Japan.  At length it comes in contact with the peninsula of Alaska and the Aleutian islands.  Breaking with great force upon these obstructions to its onward movement, the current is divided.  After the division, one part moves northward through Behring's Straits, and, probably, helps to make the open polar sea.  The other part comes down along the western coast of America, hugging it closely, and generously imparting warmth and comfort as it flows along toward the south.  The region bordering upon Puget Sound is blessed beyond any other by this beneficent power.  Twice each day, with the rise of the tide, immense quantities of this warm water flow into Puget Sound through the straits of Juan de Fuca, and, like the steam-pipes through which steam is sent from a furnace over a house, the tepid water continually dispenses its heat, and so warms the country that flowers can bud and bring forth blossoms to beautify the Christmas tables; hence the climate of the country is altogether unlike what its contiguity to the north pole would make it reasonable to expect.  But the beneficence of the Japan current does not stop here.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>So great is the volume of this Japan current, and so economical is it in the use of its resources, that in all its long journey the variation in the temperature of its waters is comparatively slight.  The distance between Queen Charlotte's Islands and San Francisco is two thousand miles; yet throughout the whole the difference in the temperature of the water is but two degrees.  Thus the entire western coast of North America has an almost equal share in the benefits of this mighty ocean stream.</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>RAIN-FALL.</P>
126.sgm:<P>THERE is not the same equality in the amount of rain-fall, or precipitation of moisture, on the Pacific coast that there is in temperature.  Going from the north to the south, the amount diminishes in a direct ratio.  In Washington Territory and in Oregon the clouds get into such a habit of weeping that it seems to be their normal condition, but they "dry up" more and more toward the equator until in southern California they make but very stingy deposits.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It is pleasant to know that, though "the wind bloweth where it listeth," and seems to be altogether a lawless thing, and the rain appears to come in an entirely independent and irresponsible manner, when we look into the matter we find that both are chained to the chariot of Him who is above them both, and who has ordained laws which they can neither transcend nor transgress.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Even in the seven hundred miles through which California extends, north and south, the difference is so great as to excite inquiry in the minds of the most unthinking.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In Shasta city in northern California, between November and April, the rain-fall in 1871-2 reached eighty inches, while in San Diego, in the southern extremity of the State, during the same time, it was only ten inches.  There are seasons when it even falls short of this.  San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>It may be interesting to get at the secret of these apparently strange differences.</P>
126.sgm:<P>That secret is bound up in the same bundle which contains the mysteries in regard to the direction of the winds, and the causes which control them.  Untie the one, and the other is found.</P>
126.sgm:<P>All the western portion of the continent derives its moisture from the Pacific ocean.  The wind sweeping over the sea gathers up the particles of moisture and carries them in its bosom until some extraneous influence is brought to bear upon it to compel it to give up its treasure.  Then, as it goes hither and thither, it scatters these riches, and therewith makes the earth glad and causes it to bring forth, that it may give seed to the sower and bread to the eater.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It is a well-known fact that the capacity of atmospheric air to absorb and retain moisture is increased or diminished in proportion as its temperature is higher or lower.  The prevailing winds of the temperate zone coming from the west, and sweeping, as they do, over the broad expanse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>On the other hand, in the summer, when the sun is north of the equator, the scene of this cooling process is moved further north, and the region that has been so generously supplied with rain during the winter gets none at all in summer, because the atmosphere does not become sufficiently cooled off to make any deposits until it gets quite far to the northward.</P>
126.sgm:<P>South of latitude 42&deg; summer showers are almost unknown, saving in exceptional circumstances, where mountain ranges attract clouds and cause precipitation.  In the Yosemite valley showers are frequent; even in the summer months.  Another cause acts in conjunction with the one already mentioned.  In summer, as has been before stated, the prevailing westerly winds are often deflected, and sometimes overpowered, by winds from the north.  These north winds not only have no moisture to spare, but they are ravenously thirsty, and so gather up and appropriate every particle of moisture they find on their way.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Any one who has been long enough in California to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>On the banks of the Sacramento, in the month of May, the writer saw the leaves of sycamore trees, which had unfolded and almost reached maturity of size, scorched and withered and killed, as totally blasted as though a fire had been kindled beneath the trees and the flames had reached and destroyed them.  This was the work of a north wind which had prevailed a week or two before.  And woe to the unfortunate sufferer who has a rheumatic affection lurking anywhere in his bones!  The north wind will be sure to search it out and waken it into activity.  Let such an one get on the south side of the house, and bar the door and shut the window, if perchance he can keep out the enemy, for, if he do not, if he be once found, such torments will rack his bones as demons might delight to torture their victims with!</P>
126.sgm:<P>The two chief elements of climate, temperature and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>There are many local causes, such as elevation, or protection by means of mountains, or trend of coast, or other peculiarity that may affect a given locality.  This is true to such an extent that it is impossible to give any general description of the climate of California that will be correct and satisfactory.  The locality must be defined if a true and authentic account would be given; still, so far as it is possible to generalize, it is well to do so.  California may, therefore, be said to have two climates,--the land and the sea climates.  The former is dry and hot from April to November; the latter damp and cool.  If one wishes to know the climate of a given place, the first thing to be ascertained is, to which of the two climates the place is subjected.  Those parts of the State that are contiguous to the ocean are, of course, under the jurisdiction of the sea climate, and consequently have no oppressive heat and no disheartening cold.  They are kept in a state of perpetual comfort by the coolness and evenness of the ocean temperature.  The water along the coast, under the influence of the Japan current, stands at from 52&deg; to 54&deg; all the year round.  This equability is imparted to the atmosphere so that it is preserved from any great variation of temperature.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In San Francisco the mean difference between the summer and winter temperature is only eight degrees.  This is only one of many marked peculiarities in the climate of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>San Francisco is in the debatable land where the sea and the land climates always strive together, with victory <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Following the coast down to Point Concepcion, it will be seen that there is a sudden and sharp change in its direction.  Instead of the southeastern course it has kept heretofore, it makes an abrupt turn and the trend is almost due east for about seventy miles.  As the sea-breeze is from the west, it is apparent that while the trend of the coast is in the same direction, the wind cannot strike it fairly, and yet there can well be enough of its cool, invigorating influence felt to keep the land in a state of perpetual comfort.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara is not far from the center of this favored spot, and has the additional advantage of a southern exposure, which secures an unusual supply of sunshine.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Perhaps the pleasantest characteristic of this coast climate is its equability.  Along the coast it is never hot and never cold.  There are not many mornings in the whole year when a little fire does not add to the comfort; indeed, there are few mornings when you can really be comfortable without one.  Yet, as soon as the sun is up a little way, if you can get yourself under its influence, its heat will be sufficient, and the fire may be permitted to go out.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It may be laid down as a general principle, that whenever and wherever you get away from the influence of the sea-breeze the weather will be warm in summer, oftentimes intensely hot, except where the influence of the sun is counteracted by elevation.  In the mountainous regions there are valleys so lifted up and protected that they have climates secured to them so nearly perfect that only a determined grumbler could find fault with them.  There is a large extent of country that lies between the jurisdiction of the sea and the land climate, and is affected by both.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The sea-breeze does not seem to be unduly inclined to confine its attentions to the coast.  Wherever there is a cleft in the mountain, or an opening made by a river, it pours through and uses its influence to assuage the heat of the inland valleys.  It comes in at the Golden Gate without let or hindrance, and as it does nowhere else.  It strikes violently against the Contra Costa hills on the other side of the bay.  These hinder its further progress in that direction, and it is thus deflected and turned aside.  One part of the divided current goes toward the northwest, the other toward the southeast, in both cases following the course of the bay.  Hence at San Jose&acute;, below the southern extremity of the bay, the trade-wind or sea-breeze comes as a northwest wind; and at Benicia, on the north end of the bay, it comes as a southwester.  Spreading out like a fan, it finds its way into all the valleys and inlets that open into the bay.  Everywhere it is invigorating, everywhere health-giving, except in cases where the lungs are diseased or over-sensitive.  Then places where it comes in its full strength must be avoided.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The effect of the wind blowing so constantly in one direction is curiously visible in the trees, which, being unable to resist the constant strain, bend so continually before the blast that they at length depart entirely from the perpendicular, and show rather a grovelling disposition for anything that was created to stand upright.  Among <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>As has been before stated, there is a sort of correlation of forces--a balance in trade--between the sea-breeze and the heat in the valleys.  Whenever the sun shines with unusual power, and heats up the valleys to an unwonted degree, causing the rarefied air to rise and hurry away, the cold air from the sea comes to fill the vacuum, and makes the greater haste according as the vacuum is greater.  This interchange keeps everything in motion, and the wind in San Francisco is a pretty good thermometer for the Sacramento and San Joachin valleys.  In September the sun has gone too far to the south to succeed so well in heating up the valleys, and the wind from the ocean has no cause to interfere; hence there is a cessation of its activity, and in that month there is a little touch of summer on the coast.  It is uniformly the hottest month in the year everywhere on the sea-coast.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It is a misnomer to call the season winter that alternates with the summer in California.  It is a long, bright spring, made so by the rains which are expected in November, but do not always come until December.  After a few showers the hills put on their garments of beauty, greenness spreads rapidly over their brown, parched sides, and everything assumes the fresh, inspiring look of spring.  The farmers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Then comes the period between the early and the latter rains.  This is sometimes longer and better defined than it is at others, but it is usually measured by the month of February.  The latter rains are of vital importance to the crops.  The seed is now in the ground, or should be, and its growth and maturity depend in great measure upon the copiousness of these rains.  If the latter rain is abundant, the crop may be regarded as secure.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It will be inferred from what has been already said that the rainy reason is not a time of perpetual rain.  The fact is quite otherwise.  There are often many days in succession without a drop of rain, and the brilliancy of the skies and the purity of the atmosphere are something wonderful, and beautiful as wonderful.  Those who have made their only visit to California during the heat and dust of the summer, it is safe to say, know but little of its beauty and its glory.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The air, purified by the rain, becomes so transparent that distance seems to be annihilated.  If it were really true that the gates were ajar, it would seem as though one could actually look within and see the heavenly city, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>There are many of these halcyon days scattered through the winter.  In truth, during some winters they are the rule and rainy days are the exception, for the rain has a strong propensity to fall in the night, very benevolently vacating when the night is past, and leaving the "sun to rule by day."  The conditions are more favorable for the falling of the rain by night than by day.  No matter how heavily laden the clouds are, or how ready soever they may be to discharge their contents, the sun is so potent that it compels them to scatter, and take with them the moisture <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The mean annual temperature varies less in a given range of latitude on the Pacific coast than it does on the Atlantic.  Going northward on the Atlantic sea-board, the mean annual temperature is found to diminish one degree for every degree of latitude.  But on the western coast there is a difference of but two or three degrees in all the nine degrees of latitude between the mouth of the Columbia river and Monterey.  And this difference does not always correspond with the difference in the latitude.  Local causes come in to modify natural conditions, and exert other influences.  In the interior the climate is greatly diversified.  Each valley and mountain side seems to have one of its own.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The rains cease in April or May, and on the coast the trade-winds begin to blow, but they are as yet only in their infancy.  Their mature strength is in reserve for July and August, when they hold high carnival.  The wind rises every morning about ten o'clock, or a little later, and continues through the remainder of the day.  As has been already stated, September is the hottest month of the year <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The mean temperature of San Francisco is 56&deg;, it being 60&deg; in summer and 52&deg; in winter.  There is scarcely any fall of temperature during the night.  Soon after the seabreeze sets in, in the morning, the mercury falls from 65&deg; to 53&deg; or 54&deg;, and remains very nearly stationary from that time till the sun brings it up the next morning.  This operation is gone through with three-fourths of the days during June, July and August.  The nights are never uncomfortably warm, as is shown by the temperature.  Blankets are in requisition every night in the year.  Inland the sun has a better chance for victory, and does not show himself a very merciful conqueror.  Away from the reach of the sea-breeze the heat is sometimes terrific.  In the upper Sacramento valley, during the summer, the mercury disdains to stop anywhere in the nineties, but goes on up to 100&deg;, to 110&deg;, and even to 118&deg; in the shade!  Yet even that degree is more endurable than a somewhat lower degree in other places, on account of the extreme dryness of the atmosphere and the coolness of the nights.  There being no clouds, evaporation is rapid, and very soon after the sun is gone down the air becomes cool, and so refreshing sleep can be obtained.  In the San Joachin valley, also, when beyond the reach of the sea-breeze, the heat is intense.  But, notwithstanding the intensity of the heat, sun-strokes are nearly or quite unknown.  There is no authentic account of any case of sun-stroke that terminated fatally.  Probably, the dryness of the atmosphere, already referred to, has something to do with this immunity.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Another of the pleasant peculiarities of the climate of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>HISTORY.</P>
126.sgm:<P>THE word California, so familiar to our ears, and so pleasant, is of doubtful origin.  There have been many speculations in regard to it, and divers discussions, which cannot be brought to any certain conclusion for want of a firm foundation on which to base the theories brought forward.  A scholar, learned in Greek lore, suggests that California is derived from the Greek words <HI REND="italics">Kala-phor-nea</HI>
126.sgm:<P>Whatever the name may mean, or by whom compounded, it is first met with in a romance, which was once very popular, but is now almost forgotten, and was published at Seville, Spain, in 1510, and entitled, "The Sergas de Esplandian," the Son of Amadis of Gaul.  In this book the word occurs three times.  One passage reads thus:</P>
126.sgm:<P>"Know that on the right hand of the Indies, there is an island called California, very near to the Terrestrial Paradise, which was peopled by black women, without any men among them, because they were accustomed to live after the manner of the Amazons.  They were of strong and hardened bodies, of ardent courage, and of great force.  The island was the strongest in the world, from its steep rocks and great cliffs.  Their arms were of gold, so were the caparisons of the wild beasts they rode."</P>
126.sgm:<P>This romance was very popular during the quarter of a century that elapsed between its publication and the discovery of this country by Hernando Grixalva, one of the officers of Cortez.  It may be that said Grixalva thought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The territory which is now occupied by the State of California was discovered and partially described in the year 1542 by Juan Rodriquez Cabrillo, a Portuguese by birth, but in the service of Spain at the time.  He also discovered and named the Farallone Islands, which lie twenty or thirty miles outside the Golden Gate, and are known to modern dwellers in that region as immense birds' nests, where the sea-fowls go to lay their eggs, and where, at certain seasons of the year, men follow them in vessels and bring away their eggs by the hundreds of dozens.  Cabrillo also named Cape Mendocino, which, however, he called Cape Mendoza, for his friend and patron the viceroy of Mexico.  The name was afterward softened down to Mendocino, which it still retains.</P>
126.sgm:<P>For more than two centuries after the country was discovered by Cabrillo the beautiful bay of San Francisco,--the best harbor upon the Pacific coast and the second-best in the world,--remained a <HI REND="italics">sinus incognitus</HI>
126.sgm:<P>In 1769 Don Gaspar De Portala, governor of Mexico, in company with fifty or sixty men, started from Sonora to go overland to Monterey.  The party went astray, and, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>But the needs of the time did not even yet call into requisition this grand harbor.  Six years more were allowed to pass before any use was made of the knowledge so accidentally or providentially acquired, or any steps were taken to secure possession of this important point.</P>
126.sgm:<P>With the light of the present day shining around us, the geographical notions of those who lived before us seem very crude and almost comical.  Even the wisest of the men of the last century, were they now living, would need to go to school awhile to get thoroughly posted in the geography of the present day; and, going backward in the centuries, the case waxes worse and worse.  In the Odd Fellows' library in San Francisco there is a copy of a map of the world, published in Venice in 1554, in which the continent of North America is represented as uniting with Asia.  The river Colorado is made to rise in the mountains of Thibet, and then wander about in a bewildered sort of way till it has traveled more than fifteen thousand miles in getting across the continent, when it is allowed the privilege of emptying itself into the gulf of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>With geographical knowledge in this mixed-up condition it is not strange that California was for a long time thought to be an island.  After that error was exploded it was succeeded by another.  The whole country was said to be a peninsula fastened to the continent by a "narrow neck of land."  At length, in 1771, Father Bogart published a book on California, in which he so clearly demonstrated that it was a regular and inherent part of the American continent, that its rank as such has never since been called in question.</P>
126.sgm:<P>A high motive has wonderful power to lift up the heart and bring about the best results in action.  As the stream does not rise higher than the fountain, so the result is not likely to be better than the motive.  But the rule does not always prove true when applied to the efforts and actions of men.  Anglo-Saxons were brought to the Pacific coast by the love of gold and the greed to gain it.  Yet they have done more in the short quarter of a century during which they have been in possession, to develop the resources and uncover the hidden riches of the country, than the Spaniards did in the three centuries during which they ruled over it.  Moreover, the Spaniards went to California professedly for the highest and noblest purpose--to make Christians of savages, to extend the boundaries of that kingdom whose symbol is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>That these Spanish fathers had some of the "wisdom of the serpent" is evident, for they very wisely adapted their means to the accomplishment of their ends.  These followers of St. Francis, who confessedly wished to build up a spiritual kingdom, thought it best to have a good earthly foundation for it to rest upon.  So they took possession of the entire coast from the Golden Gate to San Diego, and as there was no way of access to the country except by sea, they controlled the whole.  The possessions of one mission extended to those of another, so that no one could come to the coast to stay, or even to trade, without saying to the fathers, "By your leave."</P>
126.sgm:<P>Although the Spanish government was not unmindful of the desirableness of having this western coast of America attached to their dominions for worldly reasons, yet the governing motive seems to have been, the conversion of the natives to Christianity, or, perhaps it would be nearer to the truth to say, to Catholicism.  Very soon after the discovery of the country efforts were made in this direction.  Collections were made both in Spain and Mexico which, together with grants of land from the government, went to make up what was called "The Pious Fund of California."  This fund was originally in the hands of the Jesuits.  After that order had fallen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:into disgrace and been expelled from Spain, the fund was passed over to the possession of the followers of St. Francis, or the Franciscans as they are generally called.  There were no active measures adopted in furtherance of the great design of converting the Indians of California until 1768, when Father Juniper Serra, a devoted member of the order, was appointed president of all the missions to be established in Upper California.  He lost no time in inaugurating his work.  In 1769 the first mission was established in San Diego, near the southern boundary of what is now the State of California.  This mission was but the entering wedge; mission after mission was planted along the coast, until they numbered twenty-two, and the whole distance from San Diego to the Golden Gate was subject to their control.  The dominion of the missionaries was absolute.  Both spiritual and temporal matters were under their control, and from their authority there was no appeal.  They constituted both church and state, and were at the same time kings and priests.  The absolutism of their sway continued for sixty years.  They waxed rich and powerful in the prolific and beautiful country which they ruled.  Each mission had its presidio or fort, in which there were, or were supposed to be, a company of soldiers for its protection.  So absolutely was everything in the hands of the fathers that there was not an inn or a public table in the whole territory, even so late as when the country came into the possession of the United States.  The wayfarer could stop at any of the missions or among the inhabitants of the few small towns, and his wants would be supplied.  Food and lodging were given <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The fathers lived in all their missions in patriarchal state.  The Indians were their retainers, or worse yet, their absolute and abject slaves.  Some of the missions had three or four thousand natives attached to them, and each had all that dwelt in the vicinity.  These shrewd old Spanish padres had rather remarkable ways of making converts to a religion the essence of which is, or ought to be, peace and love.  Horsemen were sent out armed with the riata, with which cattle and horses were lassoed, and by its skillful use the savages were caught, and <HI REND="italics">compelled</HI>
126.sgm: to come into the church--compelled in a sense in which the Divine Teacher never meant that guests should be gathered to the feast.  Eye-witnesses tell of men, women and children being marched into church for purposes of confession and worship, between guards bearing whips, by the touch of which the worshipers were persuaded to hasten to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OLD MISSION CHURCH ("MISSION DOLORES"), SAN FRANCISCO.  PAGES 27 TO 41.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>These poor savages were thus reduced to a state of the most abject vassalage.  If they believed and showed their faith by their work, they were fed and clothed; if they did not, they were beaten and starved.  They were taught just so much learning and handicraft as would make them useful to their masters; but they were taught nothing on account of their own needs.  The proofs of the skill they acquired remain, and are seen in aqueducts and well-built churches, in olive orchards and vineyards, in reservoirs and alamedas.  All this work was done by the natives.  The fathers furnished the brain, the Indians the muscle.  The fathers showed themselves wise in the wisdom of the skillful general, who keeps himself out of the way of the bullets, but lets his soldiers have their fill of fighting and danger, and when the battle is over takes all the glory.</P>
126.sgm:<P>There seemed to be a natural incompatibility between the Spaniard and work,--an incompatibility that was invincible.  The direst poverty, the most urgent need, could not make him willing to labor: that must be done by those less favored.</P>
126.sgm:<P>When all the disadvantages of the circumstances are considered, it seems quite wonderful that so much was done by the Indians under the supervision of the fathers, and that what was done should have been done so well.  There were no saw-mills, where timber could be prepared for building the houses, and no roads by which it could be brought to the spot where it was wanted.  In some cases the timber was cut and hewn on the sides of the mountains, in inaccessible places, and the poor Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>These churches are all built very much after the same pattern.  They are of adobe, or unburned brick, with tile roofs, and are from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet in length.  The width is generally about one-third of the length.  They are ornamented within with rude pictures and carved images, clothed in tawdry finery, with a mixing-in of gilt and spangles, and are well calculated in their subjects and treatment to work upon the imaginations of the untutored and ignorant.  The choirs of the churches were made up of Indians trained for the purpose.  They were taught not only to sing, but to play upon instruments.  They were never paid for their labor, and were taught that, as the fathers held in their hands the temporal interests of the Indians, so they did also those which were spiritual and eternal.  If they were disobedient, there awaited them not only stripes and imprisonment in this world, but torment and burning flames in the world to come.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Thus the fathers were supplied with faithful laborers at a very small cost.  True, they were obliged to feed and clothe their vassals.  But in that genial climate there was need of but little clothing, and that little, for the Indians, was of the poorest quality.  The men wore a coarse cloth girt about the loins, and the women had but a single garment, a sort of gown, also made of coarse cloth.  Their food was inexpensive.  The only trade in the country was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>At one time the twenty-two missions established between the years 1769 and 1822 had dependent upon them and subject to their control more than sixteen thousand Indians.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The palmy days of the missions were between 1800 and 1820.  Their possessions in flocks and herds and horses reached an extent that seems almost incredible.  The mission of San Miguel, in 1821, had ninety-one thousand head of cattle, four thousand horses, two thousand mules, one hundred and seventy yoke of oxen, and forty-seven thousand sheep.  The other missions numbered nearly or quite as many.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The only exports from the country were hides and tallow.  The former were called "California bank-notes."  The trade was principally with Boston, though occasionally vessels came from Spain, from Australia and from the Sandwich Islands.  Dry goods and groceries were brought in the vessels and exchanged for hides and tallow.  Even so late as 1835-6, when Dana went to the Pacific coast "before the mast," there was no other trade the whole length of the seaboard, and yet the Spaniards had been in possession of this wonderfully productive country for nearly three centuries.</P>
126.sgm:<P>To one who is familiar with the present state of affairs--who knows the great amount of business done at different points along the coast, and has seen the flags of almost every nation under the heaven flying from the mast-heads of vessels lying at anchor in the bay of San Francisco, it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Dana gives a curious account of the manner in which these cargoes were taken on board the ships.  When the hide was taken from the animal it was fastened down to the ground at each of the four corners, to keep it from shrinking while drying.  When loaded on board the vessel each hide was doubled lengthwise and carried on the head of a sailor to the boat that was to receive it.  Sometimes this work involved wading out into the water a considerable distance.  Not unfrequently a sudden gust of wind would disturb the equilibrium of this nicely balanced head-rigging, and off it would go quite away from the line marked out, taking the poor bearer along with it, if he had pluck enough to hold on, to the unadulterated enjoyment of the bystanders, but great inconvenience of the poor fellow who was most interested in the catastrophe.  The sailors were obliged to have caps cushioned with padded wool, to protect their heads from the friction of the hides, and save themselves from becoming "bald-heads" before their time.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Vessels were sent out from Boston with all sorts of notions to be exchanged for hides and tallow, and large fortunes for those days were made by one or two Boston merchants in this trade.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Dana represents the Spaniards and their Mexican descendants as <HI REND="italics">shiftless</HI>
126.sgm: almost beyond description.  There was no working class among them.  "They seemed to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:a people upon whom a curse had fallen and stripped them of everything but their pride, their manners and their voices."  It was a pleasure to listen to their sweet, soft tones, even though not a word could be understood.  The women especially were blessed with that pleasant gift, a voice low and musical.  It was no strange thing to see a Spaniard with the manners of a lord, dressed in fine broad-cloth and velvet, with a noble horse completely covered with trappings, upon which he sat with the air of a king, when he had not <HI REND="italics">in esse</HI>
126.sgm: and scarcely <HI REND="italics">in posse</HI>
126.sgm:<P>Strange to tell, a love of dress also prevailed among the women!  Nor was there always shown a nice regard for the proprieties of time and circumstance.  A woman who lived in two rooms on literally a ground floor might be seen issuing from her door arrayed in a silk gown, satin shoes covered with spangles, a high comb, and gilt, if not gold, ear-rings and necklace.  Life was to the Spaniards a long holiday without cares or duties.  The few trading-posts along the coast were in the hands of "Yankees," who "had left their consciences at Cape Horn," married California wives, abjured the Protestant religion, adopted the Catholic, and brought up their children both as Catholics and Spaniards.  Their abandonment of Protestantism was compulsory if they wished to remain in the country.  Protestants had no rights.  They could not own real estate or transact business.  There was no manufacturing done, and no work of any kind performed that could be left undone.  Abounding in grapes as the country did, they bought poor wine at a high price, which was brought from Boston.  They paid three or four dollars <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Their houses were built of adobe, and generally had tile roofs.  They were all constructed after one model, having but one story and one tier of rooms, without fire-place or chimney, the work being generally done in a small out-house built for the purpose; the windows were grated and without glass, save in the houses of the more wealthy.  Except in these same cases the floors were the unadulterated earth.  But these Spaniards had one virtue which they taught the Indians.  They had great regard for cleanliness.  To this day this attribute or habit is retained, and go where you will among the "greasers" you will find their houses tidy and their earthen floors swept as clean as a broom can make them, while the yards share in the same blessing.</P>
126.sgm:<P>All the work in the families, as well as in the missions, was done by the Indians.  As they were not paid for their labor, and it cost so little to keep them, there was no Spaniard so poor that he could not, at least, have one or two menials to do him service.</P>
126.sgm:<P>At the time of Dana's visit, hides sold at about two dollars each, and not unfrequently articles were given in exchange worth less than half the estimated value of the skins.  In enumerating the hardships of his condition, having to remain eighteen months on the coast of California, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>What a change since then! and that was only forty years ago!  One can now make the journey in half a score of days that then seemed so nearly endless, and can find comfort and safety everywhere.  Yet the writer of that lament has not had time to fall into the "sear and yellow leaf" that preludes the passing away.  He may yet be in the vigor of a mature manhood.  Has Aladdin been here with his wonderful lamp, or has our American civilization made the ancient fables of genii and giants seem actualities of common occurrence?</P>
126.sgm:<P>But the day of doom was nearing the followers of St. Francis.  The power of their patron saint proved insufficient for their protection when the time of need came.  In 1822 the people of Mexico threw off the Spanish yoke and put on one of their own making.  The government being moved nearer to the missions had a better opportunity to become informed in regard to their wealth and the extent of their possessions.  Self-abnegation was not a characteristic of the Mexican authority.  Every party that came into power, and their name was legion, filched something from the fathers, who, in their turn, became reckless in regard to the future, and careful only to secure what good they could in the present while the means were within their reach.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>Little by little their power and possessions were infringed upon until finally, in 1840, there was a grand swoop made by the Mexican government, which took possession of the missions and all that pertained to them.  The fathers were then helpless and penniless.  In 1845 the Mexican Congress sold the missions to the highest bidders.</P>
126.sgm:<P>As is often true, the fathers suffered from their own craftiness, and were taken in the net which they had themselves spread.  As they had zealously kept out all foreigners from the country, and as the Indians, like our southern slaves, were chattels, not persons, and therefore not entitled to representation, the inhabitants were not sufficiently numerous to be properly represented in the Mexican congress.  So the politicians had it all their own way, and did not consult the interests of those who had no influence in the government.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The effects of the mission system upon the Indians were evil, and that continually.  What was good in them as savages was crushed out by the abject slavery to which they were reduced, while they took on in very scant measure what was really good in their Christian masters.  The California Indians are now classed among the lowest and most degraded specimens of the human race.  But they do not always seem to have been of this type.  Cabrillo, who discovered the country, spent six months in what is now Santa Barbara county, and has left on record the names of forty towns and villages, or <HI REND="italics">pueblos</HI>
126.sgm:, that he found in that region alone.  Dwelling together in towns always indicates some knowledge in a people of trade, and regard for mutual rights.  The Indians on the coast made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Father Juniper Serra, who founded the first mission in 1769, speaks of their number as being immense.  He says: "All those of this coast live very contentedly upon various seeds, and fish which they catch from their canoes made of tule, in which they go out considerable distances to sea.  They are very affable.  All the males, both large and small, go naked; but the females are modestly clad, even to the little girls."  That they had a glimmering idea of a future state is proved by their burning the ornaments and weapons of the dead with their bodies, that they might have the articles to use in the shadowy land to which they had gone.  They expressed their idea of immortality by saying, that "as the moon died and came to life again, so would men come to life after they were dead."  They believed that the hearts of good chiefs went up to heaven, and were converted into stars, so that they could continue to watch over their people.  There is abundant evidence that they were not wanting in courage,--in the sturdiness with which they stood up for their rights, and the bravery with which they resisted the encroachments of the white man.  The country seems to have been thickly populated.  Kit Carson says that even so late as 1829 the valleys were full of Indians; they were plentiful everywhere.  They were numbered for the first time in 1823, when there were one hundred thousand eight hundred and twenty-six.  In 1863 there were only twenty-nine thousand three hundred.  There are probably not more than twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>A mysterious law, which has within itself the power of its own execution, seems to have decreed that civilization and barbarism shall not dwell together.  When civilization comes, the savage must accept it or die!  The latter penalty seems to have been dealt out to the Indians with great suddenness in California.  In the valleys that were so recently teeming with natives there is scarcely one now to be found.  They have vanished as the mist before the clear shining of the sun.  Some of them have been gathered into reservations under the pretense of taking care of them.  But it is too often such care as the wolf takes of the lamb that is in his power.  They are made to toil and raise crops, which are sold to put money into the pockets of those who superintend the reservation, and the poor Indian is allowed to live as he can.  Even if one is not particularly sentimental in regard to the Indian, such wrong and oppression, and wholesale destruction, can scarcely be regarded without pain.  Their sixty years of bondage to the fathers took from them their independence, and crushed out whatever manliness there was in their nature.  Trained to depend entirely upon others, when left to themselves they were like ships without rudders, they drifted whithersoever the winds and the waves carried them, and these have borne them to sure and swift destruction.</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>GEOGRAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY.</P>
126.sgm:<P>THERE are three ranges of mountains within the boundaries of the United States, all running in nearly the same direction, though not exactly parallel.  The Appalachian range lies on the eastern border.  This chain is made up "of a series of compact wrinkles of the earth's crust," having within its limits no very high peaks, the loftiest being not more than seven thousand feet.  None of the different lines of the Appalachian chain are immediately on the sea-coast.  In New England the nearest is fifty miles back, and the interval gains in width going southward, until in the Carolinas it has a breadth of two hundred miles.  The congeries of ranges belonging to the Appalachian chain averages one hundred miles in width.  Extending west from this chain are the broken foot-hills which form the eastern portion of Ohio and parts of Kentucky and Tennessee.  Pittsburgh is in this foot-hill country, and is six hundred and ninety-nine feet above the sea-level.  From this point to the mouth of the Ohio river the descent is three hundred and seventy-five feet, the level there being only two hundred and seventy-five feet above the Gulf of Mexico.  The Ohio river forms the eastern boundary of the prairie region, the garden of the continent, of which nearly the whole State of Illinois can be taken as a type.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Crossing the Mississippi, and still pursuing a westward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Omaha, situated on the west bank of the Missouri river is one thousand feet above sea-level, and from there the ascent, going westward, is continuous, though gradual.  In passing over the Union Pacific railroad, the first view of the Platte river is gained just before reaching Fremont fifty miles west of Omaha.  This river is a disappointment to most persons who see it here for the first time.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The Union Pacific railroad follows the valley of the main Platte river for three hundred miles, when it reaches the North Platte, which it crosses on a long and substantial trestle bridge.  The Black Hills are here seen in the distance, but the traveler on the Union Pacific road looks in vain for anything that will come up to his preconceived ideas of the Rocky Mountains.  Indeed, if he follows the line of the railroad he will fail altogether of getting any just appreciation of the majesty and grandeur of this mighty range of mountains.  He must leave the line of the Union Pacific at Cheyenne and go one hundred miles south to Denver, on the South Platte.  From Denver he must go westward, and, if possible, southward too, and make the familiar acquaintance of the peaks of the "snowy range," get into the near neighborhood of Pike's Peak, and of Grey's Peak, and of Long's, the three principal vertebr&aelig; of the back-bone of the continent, in order to know anything about the peculiarities of the range or the appropriateness of the name by which it is called.  The Rocky Mountains form the grand divide which separates the waters that flow into the Atlantic from those that flow into the Pacific ocean.  It is an interesting fact <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The plateau between the Rocky and the Sierra Nevada mountains has an average width of one thousand miles, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>As California is the objective point in the present writing, the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range mountains are those which most concern us and with which we shall have mainly to do.  These two ranges of mountains give to California its most marked peculiarities, and have hitherto been the sources of its chief wealth.  The great gold region is on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains and the adjacent foot-hills.  Everywhere in the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys these two mountain ranges are seen, forming the visible and distinct lines of boundary; the Sierra Nevada range, with here and there a white-capped peak, on the east, the less pretentious Coast Range on the west.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The Sierra Nevadas are made up of a series of ranges, which average about seventy miles in width.  The Coast Range consists of chains, which aggregate about forty miles in width.  There is a great and essential difference in the structure and conformation of the two ranges.  The Sierra Nevadas can be traced in consecutive order <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The range is rich in mineral wealth beyond any other locality known in the world.  It has gold hidden away in its secret places, which men are only beginning to find ways of discovering and bringing to its proper use.  The greater part of the ore that has been obtained as yet has been found in the western declivity of the mountains.  In less than a quarter of a century the yield of the precious metal from these fields has been nine hundred and fifty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>While these opulent mines lie beneath the surface, there are upon it the finest coniferous trees that can be found on the continent, or in the world.  The habitat of the big tree is here, and well up toward heaven.  No air less pure than that which rests away up a mile or so above the fogs and miasms of the world would suffice to give trees a circumference of over one hundred feet, and a height of three hundred and more.  Although this tree has been found in so many localities, it is observed that all have an elevation of from four to six thousand feet above sea-level.  Between the high mountains of this region there are valleys interspersed, among which are lovely nooks, where almost all kinds of fruit ripen, and the grape delights to grow, and the climate is well adapted to comfort, and conducive to health.  The Sierra Nevada range is not only unsurpassed in extent and altitude by any other range in North America, but it is unequaled in its wonderful scenery, as well as in mineral and vegetable wealth.  The Yosemite valley stands alone, peerless among ten thousand; yet, every year new discoveries are made of the wonders that are shut up in the high Sierras.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The wealth that has been brought out of these mountains has revolutionized the commerce of the world, and affected its civilization everywhere.  In effecting this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The Sierra Nevada mountains--as the name is popularly used--are limited to California, and extend from the Tejon pass on the south to Mount Shasta on the north, a distance of about five hundred and fifty miles.  The highest peaks are in the southern part of the range.  As is true of almost all high mountains, the central core is granite.  In the most elevated portion of the Sierra this granite core is forty miles wide.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In both the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range the mountain walls are often broken, and lovely valleys are thrown in between the fractured parts.  There are valleys lying in the Sierra Nevada from three to seven thousand feet above sea-level, with climates so exhilarating and delightful as to leave little to be desired.  The valleys in the Coast Range are not so elevated, but they are larger and more lovely.  The Coast Range has a way of furnishing the conditions for vegetable growth to the very tops of the mountains.  Peaks three thousand feet high are covered with a luxuriant growth of wild oats to the very summit.  In the Coast Range, and among its foot-hills, the red-wood, that other member of the <HI REND="italics">sequoia</HI>
126.sgm: family, has its home, and is found nowhere else.  This tree, while less celebrated than its <HI REND="italics">confre&grave;re</HI>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The loftiest peaks in the Coast Range are low compared with the giants of the Sierra Nevada.  Mount Hamilton, fifteen miles from San Jose&acute;, is the highest point seen from San Francisco.  It is only four thousand four hundred feet high, ten thousand feet below the summit of Mount Shasta.  It is so surrounded by other peaks not much less elevated that it is not easily distinguishable, while Monte Diablo, which is not so high by nearly one thousand feet, is much more conspicuous, because of its isolated position near the break made in the range through which the bay empties its waters through the Golden Gate into the ocean.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Going north or south from the central portion, the peaks become more elevated, as if preparing to meet the range of the Sierra Nevada on terms more nearly approaching equality.  In these extremities of the range there are peaks that reach an altitude of eight thousand feet.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The scenery of the Coast Range is less grand than that of the Sierra Nevada.  The "line of beauty" prevails very generally, and gives rounded outlines to the mountains and gentle swells to the foot-hills.  The valleys are more influential in giving character to the scenery than the elevations.  Nowhere else can valleys be seen that are so park-like.  The tree that is oftenest met with is the oak; and no one knows how beautiful an oak may be until the specimens that prevail here are seen.  Their limbs droop with the graceful sweep of the New England elm, and attain such magnitude that the trees seem to be crowned with majesty and power.  It would be a very cold heart or a very critical eye to which they would not appeal successfully for admiration.  There are some single oaks in the Napa valley, in the vicinity of Calistoga, that would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:well pay one for going far to see.  This grand and beautiful tree is the burr-oak ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus macrocarpa</HI>
126.sgm:<P>These Coast Range mountains occasion some confusion in the minds of strangers on account of the great variety of names by which they are called, as well as by their want of connection with one another.  The Spaniards must have nearly exhausted the titles of their saints in getting denominations to apply to the different ranges.  They were a very godly people, these Spaniards, judging by their familiarity with and regard for the inhabitants of the spirit-world.  No name was given to anything that had not a San or a Santa prefixed.  Either a masculine or a feminine saint must stand sponsor when anything was to be christened.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Of the different ranges of mountains that belong to the general family of the Coast Range, the longest, best defined and best known is the Monte Diablo range, which extends from Monte Diablo, thirty miles north of San Francisco, to Los Gatos.  It covers a territory about one hundred and fifty miles long and from twenty to thirty miles wide.  This range contains the only coal mines that have as yet been profitably worked in the State.  It forms the western <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MIRROR LAKE, WATKINS' AND CLOUD'S REST.  Pages 224 AND 225.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>The Coast Range inosculates with the Sierra Nevada both at its northern and southern extremity.  There are spurs that cross from the one to the other range, and to which they belong can only be decided upon examination of their age.  The Sierra Nevada range is entitled to the honor of seniority according to the tests of geology.  Near Fort Tejon, in latitude 35&deg;, the ranges close in on all sides, and it becomes impossible any longer to draw a line of distinction between the two great chains.  So also on the north, Mount Shasta seems to be the point where they consolidate, though after a while they both spring up out of the ground again, and under new names traverse Oregon and Washington; the Coast Range taking the more ambitious name of Olympian mountains, and the Sierra Nevada exchanging its Spanish cognomen for the plain English name Cascade.</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>DIMENSIONS AND DIVISIONS.</P>
126.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA extends through more than ten degrees of latitude, from 32&deg; 40' to 42&deg;.  The length of the State is seven hundred miles, and the average width, fifty.  It has a coast range equal in length to that included between Plymouth, Mass., and Charleston, S.C.  The State contains one hundred and sixty thousand square miles, an area greater than that of New York, Pennsylvania and all the New England States put together, and equal to England and Ireland with a few of the smaller German principalities thrown in.  In variety of climate, soil and productions it is scarcely equaled by any country or countries of similar extent, so that it has within itself the elements out of which an empire might be made.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Southern California is usually considered as extending from 36&deg; to the southern boundary of the State.  It includes seven counties: San Diego, San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Ventura, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Kern.</P>
126.sgm:<P>These counties embrace nearly one-third of the territory of the State, and contain fifty thousand square miles, or more than thirty millions of acres of land, three-fourths of which is adapted either to agricultural or grazing purposes.  This is the very garden of the State.  Here is the home of the orange and the fig and the olive and the pomegranate, the lemon and the almond, while there is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>San Diego, the southernmost of these counties, is in itself so extensive as to be sufficient for a principality.  Although the Colorado desert covers one-third of its surface, and mountains and can&tilde;ons four millions of acres more, there are still left two millions of acres suitable for farming or grazing.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The Colorado desert is a desert only for the want of water.  Treeless and arid as it is, the soil is rich, and with a sufficient supply of moisture would be fertile and fruitful.  The delta between the Gila and the Colorado, which is the very heart of the desert, seems once to have been the bed of the rivers that now inclose it, they having made for themselves new channels.  The curious fact that this delta is lower than the Gulf of California, into which the rivers flow, will make it easy of irrigation.  Hence it is very probable that the time will come when this desert will have the same history that some of the deserts of other days already have--it will be among the things that have been and are not.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Fort Yuma, a government post in the southeastern corner of this county, is at the same time the hottest and the dryest place in the State.  The mercury reaches 122&deg; in the shade in summer, and the average rain-fall is three inches per annum.</P>
126.sgm:<P>There are some strange phenomena in this part of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>In 1867 a large spring of pure, cool water began to flow from a fissure in a high bluff a few hundred yards from the station at Don Palmas, where there had been no water before.  This strange event was heralded by no earthquake or unusual disturbance, and it was all the more strange from the fact that none of the wells previously <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>San Diego county entered the ranks of the bullion-producing counties in 1870.  Gold was found in the Isabella mountains, forty-two miles northeast of the town of San Diego.  There was quite an excitement about these mines for a time, the ore being pronounced of unusual richness.  A hamlet sprang up at once, as is usual in mining districts, to which the name of Julian City was given.  Subsequent tests did not justify the first expectations in regard to the richness of the ore, and many incipient plans failed of execution for want of the necessary capital.  San Diego, the county seat and principal town in the county, is the oldest settlement in the State.  The first of that series of missions which was established along the coast by the followers of St. Francis was established here in 1769.  The new settlement was placed under the tutelary guardianship of their patron saint, San Diego, the Spanish for St. James, and his name given to the mission and to the bay near which it was situated.  Afterward the title suffered another repetition and was given to the county.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The San Diego mission was one of the richest on the coast.  As the years passed the fathers waxed both mighty and rich.  Their flocks and herds were numbered by the tens of thousands, as were also their horses and mules.  Their harbor, being the best then known on the southern coast, attracted commerce, and made the town the center of whatever trade existed.  This was, however, very limited, the exports being confined to tallow and hides.  For <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>San Diego was the general depot for all the business on the seaboard.  The custom was for vessels to sail along the coast and gather up the hides which the other missions had to sell, and bring them all to San Diego, where they were stored until enough were obtained to load a vessel.  Sometimes months were employed in getting together enough for a cargo.  When Dana was on the coast in 1836-7 it took a year and a half to collect a load for the vessel upon which he returned to Boston.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The mission was surrounded by extensive gardens and vineyards, which were cultivated by the Indians under the direction of the fathers.  The church buildings were large and fine, at least for the period in which they were erected.  They are now crumbling away under the influence of "time's effacing fingers."  In 1866 the bells that for three-fourths of a century had called the Indians to prayer and to labor, were taken from the belfry.  Of the gardens scarcely anything remains except the olive orchard.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The old town of San Diego is near the harbor of the same name.  Two miles distant is the new town, where the government stores are kept.  Some substantial residences and a wharf have been built here within a few years.  Notwithstanding the fine climate of San Diego, its growth has been slow, mainly because of the depressed condition of the agricultural interests in the region round about.  The want of water is the blight that rests upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Twelve miles south of San Diego is placed the stone monument erected by government to show where the territory of the United States ends and that of Mexico begins.  San Diego is five hundred miles from San Francisco and one hundred and twenty-five from Los Angeles.  At present there is but little to attract persons to the place except its rarely fine climate.  In this respect, it is thought by those who have tried other places in California, together with the principal health-resorts in Europe, to be nearly or quite without a rival.  To those who require an equable, dry and sunny climate it cannot fail to be attractive and beneficial.  The average rain-fall is but ten inches per annum, and there is never enough at one time to cause <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>San Bernardino county is the largest in the State; yet three-fourths of the ten millions of acres which it contains consist of dry and desert-like valleys, volcanic ranges and inaccessible mountains.  In the Armagoza valley there is fertile land and also good water.  The Armagoza river flows northward, and sinks in the northern part of the county.  This sink and the region around it form the great Death Valley, than which a more fearful, uncanny place can scarcely be imagined.  It is four hundred feet below the level of the sea, a depression greater than that of the Caspian Sea, and nearly equal to that of the Dead Sea.  Only seventy miles west of this depression rise some of the highest peaks of the Sierra Nevada mountains.  Death Valley was probably, at some time in the past, the bed of a lake, the waters of which were heavily charged with salt and soda.  A large portion of the basin is incrusted with these minerals, which in some places are several inches deep.  The remainder of the surface of the valley is composed of an ash-like earth mixed with a tenacious clay, sand and alkali, and is so soft that a man cannot travel over it without difficulty, and beasts of burden cannot cross it at all.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In spots where there is least moisture, the surface is so porous that a horse sinks half-way to his knees at every step.  Water can be obtained almost anywhere by digging down a few feet, but it is so saline and bitter that it can be used neither by man nor beast.  There are no traces of vegetation except a few clumps of useless shrubs on the border of the valley, and no sign of animal life <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The valley derives its lugubrious name from the melancholy fate of a party of emigrants who, in 1849, perished within its limits.  The bones, bleached by the sun, and the cooking utensils and other accouterments of the unfortunate party are still met with in the valley.  The company wandered about, no one knows how long, in search of water, and died because they found none.</P>
126.sgm:<P>This dreadful valley is one hundred miles long and twenty wide.  Along its center there is a strip of salt marsh, forty-five miles long and fifteen broad.  Over this whole extent a thin layer of soil covers an unknown depth of soft, gray mud.  This is the sink of the Armagoza river.  There is a wide circuit of country round about this valley in which no pure water can be found.  Springs are not infrequent, but the water is so bitter and acrid as to be entirely useless.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The heat of this valley is fearful during the summer, and even in winter it is very great.  An exploring party who visited it in January, 1869, found the temperature 90&deg; Fahrenheit.  When there is no breeze, the air becomes so dense and overcharged that respiration is painful and difficult.  South of this fearful place is the sink of the Mohave.  The Mohave river rises in Bear valley, and, running sometimes over and sometimes under the surface for one hundred miles, finally disappears in the earth, forming what is known as Soda lake.  This is rather a peculiar sort of lake, since there is never any water in it!  It is twenty miles long and five miles wide.  Even in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The southwestern part of the county is more attractive.  The best agricultural district in the county is located here, and here is the beautiful valley of the San Bernardino river.  This valley is fifty miles in length and twenty in breadth, with mountains on the north, south and east, which are well timbered, and make a beautiful setting for the rich lands which they inclose.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The present town of San Bernardino was laid out by the Mormons in 1847, and according to the same general plan that was afterward adopted in laying out Salt Lake city.  The streets cross each other at right angles, and inclose lots which contain from one to five acres, so that the houses are all surrounded by abundant space for gardens.  In 1856 nearly all the Mormons abandoned the place and went to Salt Lake.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The San Bernardino valley contains thirty-six thousand acres, and has the advantage over most parts of southern California in being well watered.  There is not only running water which never fails, but artesian wells have been successfully bored.  Flowing water, and that which is good, is found by boring from one hundred and fifty to three hundred feet.  One of these wells will irrigate a considerable tract of land.  Very good crops of grain are raised without irrigation, by taking advantage of the conditions of the season.  If wheat and barley are put in the ground in time to have the benefit of a considerable part of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Alfalfa, the Chilian clover, is cut seven times in the year, and yields, in all, from ten to fifteen tons to the acre.  The semi-tropical fruits do as well in San Bernardino as at Los Angeles, while land is cheaper and better terms are offered to settlers.  The climate is especially delightful.  Being seventy-five miles from the ocean, the climate is more salubrious and grateful to many invalids than that of places on or near the coast.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The Riverside colony is established near San Bernardino.  The company own eight thousand acres of land.  They have brought sufficient water down in a flume to irrigate not only their entire tract of land, but much more besides.  This colony offers many inducements to settlers, among which are an abundant supply of water, a post-office, and a school-house.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Los Angeles county has attracted more attention than any other part of southern California.  The county seat and principal town has the same name as the county.  The full Spanish name was Pueblo de Los Angeles (the city of the angels).  The name must have been given prospectively, to be ready for a time that has not yet come, unless we can suppose that the angels care more for beautiful natural environments than for moral character; for, distinguished as the place is for the former, in the latter it is considered below par, according to the not too high standard of California.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Los Angeles is one of the oldest towns in the State, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>All through southern California a somewhat singular distinction is made in the inhabitants.  They are divided into the two classes, Americans and Californians.  Under the former head are included all Anglo-Saxons, no matter whence they came or how long they have been in the country.  Under the latter are embraced the Spanish and their descendants, and all mixed races, of which there are many.  Under the old Spanish and Mexican rule the pure Castilians constitute the aristocracy of the country, and they are still first among Californians.  The hybrid descendants of the Mexicans and Indians have the additional sobriquet of "Greasers" bestowed upon them.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Both the Los Angeles and San Gabriel rivers are by courtesy said to flow into the ocean, and are so represented on the maps; but as a matter of fact neither of them reaches that grand receptacle, but both lose themselves in the sand on the way.  The San Gabriel after being lost once finds itself again, and makes a second effort to reach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>In the valley of the Los Angeles the land produces without artificial irrigation for a considerable distance each side of the river.  The surface is only seven or eight feet above the water-bed, and the soil is of a loose, sandy nature; so the trees send their fibres down till they reach the water-bed, and from thence draw their supplies of moisture.  The arrangements for irrigation around Los Angeles are quite extensive and complete.  The mountain streams are tapped, and the water taken hither and thither to give drink to the grape-vines and to the orange trees.  These irrigating ditches form not an ungraceful part of the scene as it appears in riding about from orchard to orchard and vineyard to vineyard.  The water is clear and limpid, and runs along with alacrity as though in haste to execute its benevolent mission.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It is not easy to conceive anything more beautiful than the orange groves in this region in February and March, when the trees are laden with their yellow fruit, which shines through the rich glossy leaves of the trees like golden stars in a dark sky.  It is easy to transmute these yellow oranges into yellower gold.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Los Angeles is at present the center of the orange-growing business in California.  The fruit will probably do just as well in San Bernardino, but the experiment has not been very thoroughly tried as yet.  It does not thrive well anywhere on the coast, the winds from the sea being too cold.  Even in Santa Barbara and the region around, which is the best sheltered of any place on the coast, oranges do not grow well except in protected places, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>But at Los Angeles the orange finds itself at home, with but little to interfere with its constant prosperity.  The trees come into bearing at from seven to ten years of age; when they are twelve years old, and thence on, they are expected to average twenty dollars per tree per annum.  The price of oranges in San Francisco ranges from twenty to thirty dollars per thousand, the best sometimes being as high as thirty-five dollars per thousand.  It is rather surprising to people coming from the east to find oranges so near the place where they are produced selling at so much higher prices than they do in New York and other eastern cities.  Los Angeles oranges are seldom retailed at less than fifty cents per dozen, and oftener bring seventy-five cents.  As yet there seems to be no danger of the supply exceeding the demand.  An inferior kind of orange, brought from the islands, retails in San Francisco at twenty-five cents per dozen, and this is the lowest price at which the fruit is ever sold.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It is easy to see what a mine of wealth an orange orchard is at such rates.  Sixty trees to the acre, and allowing one thousand oranges as the average yield per tree, would give a gross result of twelve hundred dollars.  But as a matter of fact, trees in well-kept orchards sometimes average fifteen hundred oranges each.  But let us take the lower estimate.  It is found that one man can take care of twenty acres.  Add to his wages the expense of picking, boxing, freight and commission, all of which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Mr. Wolfskill, one of the oldest American settlers, has a grove containing two thousand trees, which, when sixteen years old, averaged fifteen hundred oranges per tree, and has continued to yield about the same each year since.  Mr. Wilson has a grove of sixteen hundred and fifty trees, some of which have borne as many as four thousand oranges, and the average has been the same as in Mr. Wolfskill's orchard--fifteen hundred to the tree.</P>
126.sgm:<P>As a compensation for the orange tree being so late in coming into bearing, it lives long and continues to bear to extreme old age.  A tree in the vicinity of the San Gabriel mission, twelve miles from Los Angeles, bore six thousand oranges when it was in the neighborhood of ninety years of age.</P>
126.sgm:<P>A gentleman in Los Angeles, in 1873, sold twelve hundred dollars' worth of oranges from the trees on half an acre.  These trees probably received extra care, and some coaxing, in order to bring about such results.  Hitherto but little attention has been paid to grafting.  All the orange orchards of which mention has been made were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>In order to show how the time required for oranges and English walnuts to come into bearing may be tided over, it may be worth while to state the plans and experiences of the gentleman to whom reference has just been made.  In the year 1868 Mr. Wolfskill and his partner purchased three thousand acres of land in the Los Angeles valley, about four miles from the town.  For this land they paid from four to eight dollars per acre--an average of about six dollars.  In four years from the time of purchase, so rapidly had land appreciated in that vicinity, thirty dollars per acre could have easily been obtained for the whole tract.  A large orange orchard was set out, and also orchards of English walnuts, almonds, and a locust grove for a supply of timber.  The land lies on both sides of the Los Angeles river, and requires no irrigation.  Artesian wells have been sunk and a sufficient supply of water for watering stock, and other uses, easily obtained.  But, no part of the ranch is as yet productive.  Meanwhile two families must have their support, and in one of them there are daughters approaching womanhood to be educated.  The entire capital of the two partners <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The sheep also buy the young orange trees and the walnuts needed for planting the orchards.  They are not pastured on the ranch, but sent away under the care of shepherds to El Monte and elsewhere, to get their living off land that nobody owns--at least, nobody save that impersonal sort of an owner, the United States Government.  During the last two or three years there has been no more profitable way of investing money in California than by putting it into sheep.  He who had them was sure of a large profit on his capital once, if not twice, in the year.</P>
126.sgm:<P>A mile or two beyond the mission of San Gabriel is Sunny Slope, the estate of J. L. Rose, president of the Southern District Agricultural Society.  This is confessedly the finest place in the region.  A ride through avenues of walnuts, of olives and of oranges, while on each side of the drive the water is running merrily along on its way to do its duty in irrigating the orchards and vineyards, brings the visitor to the house, which is shaded by tall eucalyptus trees, and wide-spreading, beautiful pepper trees.  Standing on the front verandah one looks down a broad avenue, overshadowed on each side by magnificent orange trees.  This is <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
126.sgm: the orange avenue.  It extends a mile, with double rows of trees on each side.  Mr. Rose has in all between six and seven thousand orange trees, but only a comparatively small part of them have come into bearing.  He has one hundred and fifty acres in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The income from English walnuts is estimated at from six hundred to one thousand dollars per acre; from olives, at from two hundred to five hundred dollars; the vineyards produce from ten to fifteen thousand pounds per acre.  This crop has never failed since vines were first set out by the fathers nearly a century ago.  But Los Angeles is too far from a market for grape-raising to be profitable, except for making wine.  Those who do not make wine themselves sell their grapes at the vineyards to those who do.  The fruit sells in such cases at from one dollar to one dollar and twenty-five cents per hundred pounds.  Mr. Rose irrigates his orchards every six weeks, and plows and hoes after each irrigation.  This constant working is one of the reasons of the abundant bearing.  As water is a fertilizer, the ground is kept rich as well as mellow.  Weeds have no chance to grow, to absorb the strength of the soil; indeed, they do not seem to prosper in California; it is one of the peculiarities observable everywhere.  In the northern part of the State, a spot of ground left uncultivated for a season is covered with an abundant crop of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>To show what the possibilities of southern California are to the enterprising, industrious immigrant, it may be well to give, in brief, the history of Anaheim, a German settlement established in 1857.  This village is twenty-four miles east of Wilmington, eight miles from the sea, and three from the Santa Ana river.  Fifty men in San Francisco, of different occupations and persuasions, but all Germans, agreed together to buy eleven hundred and sixty-five acres of land in Los Angeles county, southwest of the town of the same name.  The site of the village was, at the time of purchase, a dry, sandy, barren plain, no better than thousands of acres lying around it.  The leader of the enterprise was a Mr. Hansen, of Los Angeles, a German of culture and ability, who had lived many years in California and knew well the nature of the enterprise in which he embarked.  The land was bought for two dollars per acre, and divided into fifty lots, with streets between them.  Each lot contained twenty acres.  A town was laid out in the center with sixty building lots--one for each shareholder and ten for public purposes.  The lots were all fenced by planting willows, sycamores and poplars, and one half of each lot was set out in grape-vines.  With the first payment of stock the land was paid for.  For three years Mr. Hansen superintended the improvements, while the stockholders continued in the pursuit of their various avocations in San Francisco.  Indians and Mexicans were hired to do the work, and with their help the vines were set out, and an irrigating canal seven miles long was excavated, together with four hundred and fifty miles of subsidiary ditches, and twenty-five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Fruit trees of different kinds were also set out.  In 1860 the assessments were all paid in.  Each stockholder had paid the amount of twelve hundred dollars.  The lots were then assessed, the value being fixed by the location or other incident that affected their worth, and were drawn by the stockholders.  Whoever drew a lot that was estimated at more than twelve hundred dollars paid the amount of the overplus to him who had drawn one worth less than that amount.  The owners then took possession, and went to work.  In 1870 there were one million grape-vines growing in the settlement, most of which were in bearing.  They produced annually four hundred thousand gallons of wine and ten thousand gallons of brandy.  There were ten thousand fruit trees of different kinds growing.  Every one of the fifty lots contained a comfortable homestead, and the village had a population of about four hundred, and contained a good public school, a post-office and a church.  Each of the lots was valued at ten thousand dollars, and could not be purchased at any price.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The distance by the stage route from Los Angeles to San Buenaventura is seventy miles; yet between the two places there is no village and not even a post-office.  The latter place is the principal town in Ventura county, which is a new county, set off from Santa Barbara in 1873.  Those who named the country did wisely in abbreviating the unwieldy cognomen with which the town is incumbered.  This latter, to which the fathers gave so extensive a title, was the seat of one of their missions.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>San Buenaventura contains about one thousand inhabitants, and is steadily growing.  Situated as it is at the natural outlet of the wonderfully rich valleys of the Santa Clara and the Ojai, it cannot fail, at no distant day, to be a place of considerable importance.  The valley of the Santa Clara river contains the richest and best agricultural land in the county.  Here, as almost everywhere in southern California, the only want is water, and this want has been in part supplied by arrangements for artificial irrigation.  The soil of the valley is a rich, sandy loam, and is said to require less moisture to perfect vegetation than many other varieties.  Wheat and barley have been successfully cultivated, and the experiment, on a small scale, of raising sea-island cotton tried with success.  The sugar-beet grows to a size that is quite enormous, some having reached the gigantic proportions of thirty or forty inches in circumference.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>A gentleman, whose official duty rendered it necessary for him to make a careful examination of this lower Santa Clara valley, says: "My impression is, that this valley offers greater inducements to settlers from the east than any other in California.  Lands are cheaper, society is growing up, schools are being established, the climate is excellent and well adapted to almost every variety of production.  The valley is inclosed by ranges of mountains on both its north and south sides, which protect it from the cold storms and high winds, but being open to the ocean toward the west it has the advantage of the seabreezes more than almost any other in California."</P>
126.sgm:<P>A ride up this beautiful Santa Clara valley, early in the month of March, was full of interest to the writer, and may in part account for the readiness with which competent testimony in regard to its desirableness is accepted.  "Seeing is believing," and when one knows in part, evidence in regard to the rest which falls in with the knowledge possessed is easily credited.</P>
126.sgm:<P>A good team, a comfortable carriage, and pleasant company, are elements that make up about as desirable a whole as the imperfect conditions of this world can furnish.  But when to these are added the brightest of bright sunshine, the purest and most exhilarating of atmospheres, and a temperature at the exact point of comfort, with mountains and valleys and cultivated fields and orchards in blossom to give beauty and variety to the scenery, it would be a very churlish soul indeed that could not find delight and satisfaction in such a combination.  But it was not a churlish soul whose experiences on that day are to be narrated, but one determined to extract sweet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>In going up the valley we passed through the oil regions that help to make this locality famous.  Instead of occurring in depressions and valleys, as in the eastern States, where it requires pumps to bring it to the surface, the oil here oozes out from the cracks and crevices in the mountains, wherever there is a tilt in the dip or a fracture or an angle.  I do not speak after scientific methods, but as things looked to common, every-day eyes.  Wherever the oil finds a crack out of which it can creep it improves the opportunity.  After going up the Santa Clara valley some twenty or twenty-five miles, we crossed over the mountains which divide it from the San Buenaventura valley, through the Santa Paula pass, and on our return passed through the Ojai valley, and back to the town by the side of the San Buenaventura river.</P>
126.sgm:<P>One of the curious sights that we witnessed during the ride was a stream of oil which ran out of a crevice in the mountain and fell into a creek which was on its way to the San Buenaventura river.  The rivulet, where we observed it, was twenty or thirty feet wide, and in its center there was a stripe of oil six or eight feet wide, which, grimy black and unctious, kept on its winding course, carried by the current hither and thither, as the stream turned and twisted and curved in its onward passage.  It looked like an immense serpent, with a capacity for swallowing any impediment that came in its way.  It was an uncanny sight to the eye of taste, and an uncomfortable one to the eye that looked at things with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">maestro</HI>
126.sgm:<P>The pleasant town of Santa Barbara is thirty miles northwest from San Buenaventura.  The road connecting the two places is singularly romantic and delightful.  For nearly half the way it lies directly on the beach, and the horses trot along with the ocean surges bathing their feet.  When the tide is in, or coming in, persons traveling with animals not used to the wash and roar of the waters are sometimes obliged to stop by the way and wait for hours till the tide goes out.  The ride between these two places is memorable to the writer, not only for its picturesqueness and the beautiful ocean views, but also as affording the first opportunity of seeing a whale.  What a monster it was!  An <HI REND="italics">immensa molis</HI>
126.sgm: as truly as the famous wooden horse of the Greeks.  Wounded by a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BRIDAL VEIL FALL.  PAGE 219.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>The end of this pleasant drive was Santa Barbara.  It is only within a few years that this town and the region around have excited the attention which they well deserve.  While mining interests were dominant the attention of emigrants was centered in those parts of the State where such interests were best advanced.  But in the time back of American occupation it was not so.  The Aborigines showed their appreciation of natural advantages, and their adhesion to those conditions which guaranteed a healthful, joyous life, by congregating in this pleasant region.  When Cabrillo examined the country along the coast, only fifty years after Columbus discovered America, he found no part of it so thickly populated as this.  He spent six months in what is now Santa Barbara county, and has left upon record the names of forty towns and villages <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>As Santa Barbara is attracting much attention at the present time as a health resort, and as many are desirous of ascertaining what its special claims are in this behalf, a fuller statement of facts than usual will be given of this particular section of the State.  What has come to the writer's knowledge, both experimentally and through competent testimony, will be mentioned, after which a catalogue will be given of the resources, in the way of soil and productions, which make the place inviting to those who, already blessed with health, seek here a competency and a home.  When an artificer is the possessor of knowledge and skill, the result of his effort will be in proportion to the resources at his command.  Here were all material and all power in the hands of the Great Creator.  Behold how skillfully the arrangements were made and the combinations effected in order to bring about the desired result, and fit up a great sanitarium, from which a voice should go out to the sick and weary everywhere, saying, "Come ye disconsolate, where'er ye languish," come, bask in this sunshine and breathe this refreshing air, which will warm without heating, and cool without chilling you!</P>
126.sgm:<P>But as to the means by which this desideratum is brought about.  First, from Point Concepcion to San Buenaventura, a distance of seventy miles or so, there is a trend of the coast toward the east.  This direction of the shore gives it a southern exposure, and spreads out its lap to receive the sunshine.  This is the only coast-line that faces south between Alaska and Guatemala.  The town of Santa <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>As a worthy adjunct, the beach spreads out a level and attractive carriage-way, where those who ride may sniff the wholesome air of old ocean and watch its restless tossings and ever-varying beauties.  The arrangements for sea-bathing are complete, so far as natural facilities can make them.  Spurs of the Santa Inez mountains come down on each side, and lock in a little cove by reaching out their protecting arms, about a mile and a half apart.  How could there be a nicer and safer bathing-place?  For those, however, who prefer more limited accommodations or warmer water, a Bethesda is hidden away in a can&tilde;on four miles from the town, in which sufferers may wash and be made better, if not entirely whole.  The waters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>These peculiarities of situation and environment secure to Santa Barbara all the conditions required by those who, on account of weak or diseased lungs, need an equable, bracing climate, for it is warm without being hot, and cool without being chilly.  There is scarcely ever a day when the most delicate invalid cannot be out-of-doors some part of the time.  Even in the rainy season, which lasts from November till March, some portion of almost every day can be safely and pleasantly spent in the open air.  That there cannot be many days of continuous rain is clearly proved by the fact that the entire rain-fall averages but twelve inches per annum.  But a case is made stronger by cumulative evidence.  Dr. Brinkerhoff went to Santa Barbara on account of poor health eighteen years ago, since which time he has been a leading physician in the place.  He says: "The heat of summer is tempered by gentle breezes from the sea, the average summer temperature being less than 70&deg;.  The average winter temperature is 58&deg;.  The changes of the season are scarcely perceptible in temperature.  Frosts are of rare occurrence, and disagreeable fogs seldom prevail.  There are comparatively few days in the entire year when one cannot sit out-of-doors without discomfort.  The nights are always cool and sleep-inviting.  The softness and general uniformity of the climate, its freedom from dampness and sudden changes, the opportunity for diversion and recreation, render Santa Barbara pree&die;minently a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:desirable place for persons suffering from bronchial and pulmonary affections.  Although many persons suffering from these complaints have come here too late to receive any permanent relief from the restorative effects of climate, yet the greater portion of cases which have come under my observation have been permanently relieved, and many in a surprisingly short space of time have been perfectly restored to health.  Some ten miles from Santa Barbara, in a westerly direction, in the bed of the ocean, about one and a half miles from the shore, is an immense spring of petroleum, the product of which continually rises to the surface of the water and floats upon it over an area of many miles.  This mineral oil may be seen any day from the deck of the steamers plying between here and San Francisco, or from the high banks along the shore, its many changing hues dancing upon the shifting waves of the sea, and affording various suggestions both for the speculative and the speculator.  Having read statements that during the last few years the authorities of Damascus and other plague-ridden cities of the east have resorted to the practice of introducing crude petroleum into the gutters of the streets to disinfect the air, and as a preventive of disease, which practice has been attended with the most favorable results, I throw out the suggestion, but without advancing any theory of my own, whether the prevailing westerly sea-breezes, passing over this wide expanse of sea-laden petroleum, may not take up from it, and bear along with them to the places whither they go, some subtile power which serves as a disinfecting agent, and which may account for the infrequency of some of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>About four miles from Santa Barbara, pleasantly located in one of the can&tilde;ons of the mountains, are the hot sulphur springs which have become so favorably known.  If it is true of places, as well as of persons, that nearness and familiarity are the true test of greatness and worth, then Santa Barbara must have the ring of the genuine metal about it!  Its number of admirers seems to be equal to the number of its entire population, and can only be estimated by taking the census!</P>
126.sgm:<P>A preacher, who has for some time been a resident of the place, on one Thanksgiving day delivered a sermon appropriate to the occasion to his assembled people.  He did not wander off to the ends of the earth for causes for thankfulness, but showed his hearers what reason for ceaseless gratitude they had in being allowed to dwell in so Paradisaical a place as Santa Barbara--a place of unparalleled richness of soil, of unequaled salubrity of climate--a place for which earth, air and sea did their best.  That little spot alone of all the earth seemed to have escaped when the earth was cursed for the sin of man!  After dwelling for some considerable time upon the features of this perfectness, the thought seemed to occur to the speaker that after all the taint of transitoriness which pertains to everything earthly rested also upon Santa Barbara and those who inhabit it.  As, therefore, people could not live there always, some inducement must be presented to make them willing to leave when the inevitable summons came for them to go to heaven!  Therefore he endeavored to bring about a reconciliation between their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>To the writer, personally, a sojourn there gave new ideas of the possibilities of life.  The atmosphere was so pure and exhilarating, the sky so blue and serene, the sunshine so bright and cheering, that mere existence seemed a blessing rich beyond compare.  Visions of beauty and blessedness float before my eyes and fill my heart with yearnings as I recall the experiences of those delightful days.  Whether I looked above, beneath or around me, there was something to charm, something to comfort and delight.  The usual taint that affects all earthly things seemed to be wanting, at least it did not make itself visible to the eye.  Sky, earth and air, all seemed to be absolutely without a flaw.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara is the preferred home of the beautiful pepper tree.  Those who have only seen it further north have no adequate idea of its possible loveliness and elegance.  The tree produces the white pepper of commerce, but so far as I know, it is not utilized in this region, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>There are many varieties of acacia that flourish in California; and the eucalyptus, or Australian gum, is a great favorite and much cultivated.  These are all evergreens, and some of them beautiful; but among them all there is nothing equal to the graceful, refined-looking and beautiful pepper tree.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The olive, too, seems to be in as good as its native element in this region.  The leaf of the tree is long and narrow, and not unlike that of the willow.  It is bluish green above, and on the under side of a lighter color, with a silvery tinge which produces a very pretty effect when the branches are tossed by the wind.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The fruit of the tree has been utilized from an early day, and its cultivation is among the things that pay.  It may not be without interest to go somewhat into detail in regard to this industry.  In the Santa Barbara region the olive is propagated by cuttings.  These are made from ten to fifteen inches long, and the thicker the better.  The slips are put into the ground perpendicularly about six or eight inches apart.  Everything seems to be delighted to grow in the beautiful country around Santa Barbara, and the olive is not an exception.  These cuttings soon send out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>For pickling, the olive is gathered before it is ripe, though the nearer it is to maturity, and a consequent change of color, the better and richer the pickle.  It is from the color of the fruit in this unripe state that the shade "olive green" takes the name.  When ripe, the fruit is of a purplish, maroon color, and in both size and color has a striking resemblance to the damson plum.  For making pickles, the immature olive is gathered and put into vessels filled with cold water, which must be changed for four or five successive days; or better yet, they are sometimes placed in casks through which the water is allowed to percolate.  The object of this process is to extract from the olive a bitter quality that is always present.  When this process is completed the olives are put into a strong brine, and in a few days are ready for use.  Persons who do not like imported olives often become fond of those put up in Santa Barbara, on account of their superior richness and excellence, which is in part owing to their being allowed to become more nearly ripe before they are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>When gathered, cloths are spread under the tree and the fruit is shaken off, and that which does not fall readily is beaten off with rods or poles, which would seem to have been the way in which olives were gathered in Palestine, as can be inferred from the command, "When thou beatest thy olive tree, thou shalt not go over the boughs again; it shall be for the stranger, for the fatherless and for the widow."</P>
126.sgm:<P>After the fruit is gathered it is placed in a drying-room or on shelves, where it is allowed to remain several days, in order that the watery juices contained in it may evaporate.  The machinery now in use for manufacturing the oil is of the rudest and most primitive character, and will probably before long, when the rule of the Anglo-Saxon is fully established in this region, give place to something better.  A circular stone bed is built, and upon this a stone is placed to which a sweep is attached.  A horse is fastened to the sweep, and the berries being spread upon the bed, they are crushed by the turning of the stone upon it.  Even this would seem to be an improvement upon the Jewish method, which seems to have been to tread out the oil with the feet.  Thus the dying Jacob said of Ashur, "Let him dip his foot in oil."</P>
126.sgm:<P>The stones or pits of the olive are not broken in the first process of crushing.  After the fruit is fairly crushed the pulp is gathered up and put into coarse sacks or gunny-bags, and submitted to pressure in a home-made, rough sort of a screw.  As the oil is extracted it is put into vessels and allowed to settle, after which, without any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>A second pressure succeeds the first, in which many of the pits are cracked and the pulp more finely comminuted.  The result of this is an inferior article of oil, such as is generally brought to us for table use.</P>
126.sgm:<P>After this there is still another effort made to compel the olive to give up its oil.  The pulp is brought to a boiling heat in large copper kettles, and then submitted once more to pressure.  An inferior kind of oil is thus obtained, which is principally used for lubricating purposes.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In the good time coming, when the twenty thousand olive trees already set out in southern California, and the ten times as many more that will be set out, shall come into bearing, and when new and better machinery, the result of Yankee ingenuity, has been introduced, we shall get our olive oil from our own dominions, and it will be the pure "virgin oil," that will neither grow murky nor rancid, and our salads will be no more spoiled by oil that is common or unclean!</P>
126.sgm:<P>The profitableness of the olive as a factor for money-making will be evident by the statement that sixty or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>There is an olive tree in Santa Barbara that is thirty years old, from which has been made forty-eight dollars' worth of oil each year for three successive years.  It is estimated that an olive orchard will yield about nine hundred dollars, gross, per acre.  Allowing half of that amount for cost of culture and manufacture, which is an overgenerous estimate, and there remains a very handsome income from the investment.  It is a particularly pleasant arrangement for those who have not much land--only a town lot or two--to set out olive trees, which will not only furnish shade all the year, but in the season produce fruit that can be turned into money.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The fruit in its ripe state is very nutritious, and people can live on it for days without other sustenance; but it has a bitter, acrid taste, which makes it anything but attractive to the uninitiated.  The olives of California are said to be better than those of France or Spain, probably because they have a better chance to absorb the sunshine, and a richer soil from which to draw their nourishment.  There is a grove of old olive trees near the mission church which was set out by the Spanish padres fifty or sixty years ago.  These trees are still a source of income to their owners.  This old mission church was established in 1786.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:It is about two miles from the wharf, on a plateau which rises all the way, gradually, from the beach, until where the church stands it is more than three hundred feet above the sea-level.  As these old Catholic churches are all built after one general plan, it may be well to give a more particular description of the one at Santa Barbara, and " <HI REND="italics">ab uno disce omnes</HI>
126.sgm:<P>The church is built of sandstone and adobe in the Moorish style of architecture.  It is quite imposing seen from afar, with its two high towers and rather grand and massive air.  The walls are over five feet thick, and the cement that unites the stones cannot be broken with a pick.  I make this statement, not from experimental knowledge, but from testimony that I find on record.  The ancient tile roof has been replaced by one of shingles.  Tile roofs were not among the least curious things brought to light and knowledge by the chance to see the handiwork of the Spaniards.  A cylindrical pipe, made of redburnt clay, not far from the size of an ordinary stove-pipe, cut in halves longitudinally, and from two to four feet long, is as accurate a description of these tiles as comes to hand.  Two of these are laid parallel with each other, and a third is laid over so as to cover the space between them.  There are little gutters along the sides to carry off the water.  They are very clumsy looking affairs, and would seem to be a heavy weight for any rafters and walls to support.  The adobe houses of the Mexicans are covered with these tile roofs.</P>
126.sgm:<P>"The largest grape vine in the world" is another of the meritorious things that Santa Barbara claims.  This grows at Montecito, about three miles from the town.  It was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The latest news in regard to this celebrated grape-vine is, that it is boxed up and on its way to attend the Centennial at Philadelphia, where all the world is to be gathered together.  But it will come stripped of its glory, and its beauty will be henceforth only a memory.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara, beautiful as it is for situation, is attractive also to the fortunate ones who do not need to search for lost health.  The mountains round about it are charming at all times.  They are especially so at evening, when there hover and rest upon them the rosy tints and soft azure haze that travelers say are seen in Italy and other countries on the Mediterranean.  One evening, when the sun was setting, the mountains on the eastern side presented a picture which will be to me "a joy forever."  I wish that I could worthily describe it, so as to give even a faint idea of its glory and its grandeur.  The mountain is corrugated, as all the foot-hills of the Coast Range are.  The sun, in going to its rest, shone in such a direction as to make the different points and projections cast their shadows on the adjoining depressions.  So the hill-side was flecked over with a rich green, which was now golden in the sunlight, and then subdued and saddened by a shadow, like life with its ever-varying shades of joy and sorrow.  Upon the top of the mountain there rested a mist--a soft azure veil just dipped in the tint of the rose, which, while it concealed nothing, softened the outline and spiritualized the whole.  I watched it far into the gloaming, and saw the light go out gradually and gently, like the light of life to the dying saint, changing every minute, yet each change revealing some new beauty, till, finally, the brightness faded away, and one star after another came out to see.  Meanwhile, near by was the ocean, calm as though it had quieted itself for unwonted rest, catching and reflecting the beautiful tints which the mountain-top threw down to it.</P>
126.sgm:<P>To the traveler from the east who makes Santa Barbara <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The Spaniards who built these towns seem to have eschewed geometrical figures and held in abhorrence all straight lines.  Everywhere the streets are crooked, looking, many of them, very much like some of the "ways" in the "Hub."</P>
126.sgm:<P>It was curious to see the mixture of colors in the faces of those met on the streets.  With the normal white of the Anglo-Saxon there was mixed almost every shade of brown, yellow and black.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The population of the town is now about six thousand, one half of whom are Americans.  The gain of the latter has been very rapid during the last few years.  In 1865 only twenty-one Americans could be gathered together to celebrate the birthday of our nation.  Now the number of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CATHEDRAL ROCKS.  PAGES 219 AND 220.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>It is only within a comparatively recent time that the benefits and advantages and delightsomeness of this Santa Barbara region have been understood and appreciated by any but those who were on the spot.  Under the somnolent influence of Mexican rule everything languished.  The accommodations were too wretched to attract strangers, or allow of their staying even if they chanced to come.  A general lethargy prevailed, which checked all development and all enterprise.  But American energy has already accomplished much, and promises more.  Everywhere there is evidence of the change--in the quickening of all kinds of enterprise, in the improvements that are manifest in making the crooked places straight, in the increased accommodations for visitors, as well as in their better entertainment.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The variety of fruit that can be raised in this region is very great.  It comprises apples, pears, peaches, plums, olives, almonds, apricots, nectarines,--in short, all the fruits of the temperate zone, as well as of the semi-tropical belt.  Oranges do not do well, except in places where they are protected from the winds off the ocean.  The growth of fruit-trees is very rapid.  Peaches and figs sometimes bear the second year and apples the third.  The soil is everywhere wonderfully rich and strong.  There is one thing, however, that must be made sure of--water.  Like emphasis to the orator, this is the first, second and third requisite.  Let the supply of this be sufficient, and there is scarcely any limit to the variety or amount of production.  Extravagant as these statements may seem to those who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>As yet there are but two ways of access to Santa Barbara--by steamer from San Francisco, and by rail from the same point to Hollister and thence by stage.  The stage ride occupies about sixty hours, including a few hours' rest at San Luis Obispo.  It is not unattractive to those who have the strength to endure it.  To the writer, who went down by sea and came back by land, the latter mode of transit seems much the more attractive of the two.  The hours of sea-sickness, and the almost total loss of time, so far as any increments of knowledge were concerned, did not make the sea-voyage acceptable at the time or pleasant in the recollection; while in the journey by land there was much that was interesting and that returns pleasantly to the memory.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The views enjoyed in ascending and passing over the Santa Inez mountains, just after leaving Santa Barbara, are among the valuable possessions which will be retained.  After starting, the road leads along between the mountains and the sea for about ten miles.  Then the ascent of the mountains is begun.  The road goes through Gaviota pass.  As the stage winds slowly up the elevation magnificent views can be obtained, made up of mountain and valley and sea, the latter stretching off into the infinite.</P>
126.sgm:<P>They have a curious way of always changing the driver and the coach at the same time on the Pacific coast.  I found this custom prevailing everywhere.  Each driver has his own coach, or one of which he has the exclusive proprietorship.  When we made our first change after leaving Santa Barbara, we were put into a very delapidated wagon, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Mr. Foxon, at whose house I stayed, is an Englishman, and claims to be the oldest Anglo-Saxon settler now living in California.  He has been more than fifty years in the State, and has lived where he now does since 1836.  He brought his family there the year following.  There was no settler or settlement near, and the household lived under a tent while the father built the adobe house which they now occupy.  Some of his accounts of the doings in those early times bordered so nearly upon the marvelous as to be rather a tax upon one's credulity.  Among many other things that were passing strange, he told how upon one occasion his house was surrounded by grizzly bears, and he standing in the door, with his wife to help him load his gun, had killed eleven of the monsters!  He had often been with Kit Carson in his exploring expeditions, and shared his dangers and his hardships.  He had also engaged in enterprises under the leadership of Fremont.  His wife was Spanish, and in all the half-century they had lived together she had not learned so much of his native tongue <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:as would enable her to ask or answer the simplest question.  Eleven of their eighteen children were still living, several of them in the vicinity.  They were educated at the Santa Inez mission school, about eighteen miles distant.  Mr. Foxon's possessions extended over many leagues, and his flocks and herds were numbered by thousands.  A few years ago, on account of a severe drought which killed the feed, the family lost in a single season fifteen thousand sheep and seven thousand cattle, and yet in the twenty-four hours I stayed there, and the four meals I ate, I saw neither milk nor butter, nor anything into which milk enters as a compound, and no fruit of any sort.  Neither did I see anywhere around the house anything that looked like a garden, or any preparations for raising vegetables for the future.  In answer to some questions having a bearing upon the subject, Mr. Foxon said that it was too windy to raise fruit; he had tried two or three times; had set out trees, etc.  Of course a Yankee would have found a way to remedy this difficulty by seeking a sheltered place, which must have been easy to find, where the surface was so uneven and hills near by, or he would have constructed a shelter to keep off the wind.  Mr. Foxon said he supposed they might milk a cow or two, and have milk and butter; but they had sheep corraled near by, and if they had cows they would be obliged to rise early to milk them and get them out of the way before the sheep were let out, which would be a trouble; so they lived on meat and bread (unaccompanied by butter) and eggs, and creamless coffee.  But, as if to make up for the quality, they increased the number of their meals.  Although the breakfast was not over till somewhere between eight and nine o'clock, they had four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>I think I was quite a God-send to the old gentleman, and he made the most of the blessing.  In this retired place it was something to have an attentive listener for a whole day.  How constantly he talked, and how much he told me of the early times, the Indians, the bears and other wild beasts!  He did not think that the coming of the Anglo-Saxons, and their settlement in the country, had increased the content and happiness of the inhabitants.  As for their enterprise and improvements, what was the use of them if people were happier without them?  There never were people that lived lives so easy, so full of contentment and actual happiness as the Californians did when under Spanish and Mexican sway.  The delightful climate and fertile soil made it easy to support life, and what they had was shared by all who needed it.  The coming of Americans introduced selfishness, the greed of gain, and all the thousand ills that follow in their train.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In an interval of rest in the conversation, when Mr. Foxon went out for a walk, I looked around everywhere for something to read.  Not a book, not a newspaper, old or new, was to be found; not even an almanac was visible.  It seemed strange to see people living so absolutely isolated--cut off from all the interests that affect the race, both in the past and present.  Three sons and a daughter were still at home.  One of the sons bore himself with the air of a prince, and when I came away, to assist me in starting, bestowed upon me numerous little civilities in a most gentlemanly and even courtly manner.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>We reached San Luis Obispo, the principal town in the county of the same name, about two o'clock in the morning, and were allowed to rest until seven, when we started onward again.  We saw the old mission church which was built in the early mission days, and gave name to the town and county.  Soon after leaving San Luis Obispo we crossed the Santa Lucia mountains, a spur of the Coast Range, and were then in the Salinas valley.  This is a fine area of land, about seventy-five miles long and from three to five miles wide.</P>
126.sgm:<P>About one-half of the valley lies within the limits of San Luis Obispo county.  We crossed the Santa Margarita ranch, belonging to Mr. Murphy, soon after descending the mountains.  This ranch has within its boundary twenty-five thousand acres of land, and upon these acres roam seventeen thousand head of cattle, all of which are owned by Mr. Murphy.  As we rode along in the stage a gentleman, who was well acquainted in that region, pointed out a place that had been disrupted and thrown into confusion by an earthquake not many years before.  Large fissures were made in the ground, which closed again with a suddenness that allowed them to swallow up horses and cattle that were feeding on the spot in unconscious ignorance of the casualty that awaited them.  Quite a number of horses disappeared in this catastrophe, some of which left their tails or their feet sticking out of the cracks so as to identify the cause and place of their departure.  These were their only mementoes.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Twenty miles north of San Luis Obispo we came to the Paso Robles ranch.  This lies on a beautiful level plain, and includes ten square miles.  The Paso Robles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:springs are on this ranch, and are quite a place of resort.  There are two or three large buildings for the accommodation of visitors, and they seemed to be well filled when we were there.  The water in a spring near the house is scalding hot, while in one but a mile distant it is icy cold, but in both it is strongly impregnated with sulphur.  There was quite a civilized look around these springs, and much was said in commendation of the healing power of the waters.  The greater part of this day's ride was through the Salinas valley, and there was much to make it attractive.  The sun was bright and not too warm, the air was pure and the sky cloudless.  The country looked like a grand park.  Large oaks stood here and there as a skillful landscape-gardener would have placed them in order to get the best effect.  There were no thickets, and only trees enough to give beauty and variety to the scene.  The ground was covered with a luxuriant growth of alfilerilla, a native product, which is of a peculiarly soft and pleasant green.  Without looking at all sickly, it has a yellowish tinge, which seems to give peculiar effect to the variations of light--to the alternations of brightness and shadow.  This alfilerilla made the groundwork, then the pattern was filled in with flowers, "whose beauty and whose multitude rivaled the constellations."  The California poppy ( <HI REND="italics">eschscholtzia</HI>
126.sgm: ) was in full blossom, and with its yellow petals shading off from a deep orange to a light straw color, according to the variety to which it belonged, covered oftentimes acres of ground.  Sometimes a whole hillside was one solid mass of molten gold, or seemed to be, looking at it from a distance.  Many sovereigns might have had their meetings on places covered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>To one pair of eyes at least the solution was easy.  After seeing yellow hills by the score, and red and blue and purple fields, there was something very restful in looking at the soft, polished and comforting green, unmixed with anything that was flaunting or gaudy.  The summing up of the verdict was, although these bright hues are beautiful for variety, yet if choice must be made for common use, "green it shall be," for green suits the eyes best,--another proof that, among things as among persons, the brilliant and showy may please us as occasionals, but for every-day wear the quieter and more durable are better.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Soon after leaving Paso Robles we came to San Miguel.  The old mission church is still standing and is in quite a good state of preservation.  The adjoining wing, which was erected for the use of the priests, is now perverted and polluted by being turned into a dram-shop, to our personal regret and the increase of our fears.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Our driver had for some time been giving unmistakable evidence of having taken a great many drops too much, and he now increased his potations and our danger.  He lingered over his cups and made an unreasonably long delay.  We finally started, and for the next ten or fifteen miles ran such a race as would have left John Gilpin's famous steed far behind.  Up hill and down, through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>We started on with fresh horses with almost equal rapidity of motion, nor did the race end until we stopped at the philosophically named town of Plato, and changed team and driver.  In all the eighteen hundred miles that I traveled by stage upon the Pacific coast that was the only "stage fright" I had--the only case in which I had any cause to doubt the skill or competency of the driver.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In southern California especially, the drivers, as a class, seemed to be intelligent, gentlemanly men, to whom it was safe for a lady to trust herself, and upon whom she might depend for any attention or help she needed.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The Atlantic and Pacific railroad, as now surveyed, will pass through the Salinas valley, and when the fortunate day of its completion comes this county will make rapid strides in the race for prosperity.  There will then be an outlet for the products of the fertile valley of the Salinas, and tillers of the soil will find out how much better than gold-mines are the riches that honest toil can bring forth from the ground.</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>THE GREAT VALLEY.</P>
126.sgm:<P>THE Great Valley, or central California, is that part of the State inclosed between the Sierra Nevada mountains on the east and the Coast Range on the west.  It is about five hundred miles in length, with an average width of fifty miles, and contains sixteen millions of acres of land, more than half of which is tillable.  Although in configuration a unit, the valley is generally considered as divided into two, the Sacramento valley, so called from the river of the same name which flows through it, and the San Joaquin valley, which is also named from the river traversing nearly its entire length.  The Tulare valley is a continuation of the San Joaquin, and is named from a large lake within its borders.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The two mountain ranges which bound the entire valley come together on the north at Mount Shasta, and on the south at Fort Tejon.  The land thus inclosed is troughshaped, descending from each side toward the center.  The Sacramento river rises at the base of Mount Shasta, and flows nearly due south throughout its whole course.  The San Joaquin rises in the south, and coming northward meets the Sacramento, and with it empties into San Pablo bay, which empties its waters through the straits of Carquinez into Suisun bay, and that again through some unnamed straits into the bay of San Francisco.  The mingling of the muddy water brought down by these rivers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>These two rivers, the Sacramento and the San Joaquin, are the only rivers in California that are navigable for any considerable distance.  The two valleys are the great wheat-fields of the State.  The San Joaquin has the advantage as to quantity and, probably, also as to quality of land.  It contains twelve thousand square miles, or seven million six hundred and eighty thousand acres.  The Sacramento valley contains eight thousand square miles, or five million one hundred and twenty thousand acres, being less by about one-third than the former.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The northern part of the Sacramento valley, although less fertile, has the advantage over the region further south in a greater rain-fall.  As far north in the State as Red Bluff, there has never been an entire failure of crop for want of sufficient moisture, while in the San Joaquin valley it is thought not safe to expect to gather in harvests more than four years out of every seven!  Rather fearful odds for a farmer!</P>
126.sgm:<P>The annual rain-fall in the San Joaquin valley averages about twelve inches.  Stockton is at the head of the valley, and the entrepo&circ;t of its trade.  It is one hundred and seventeen miles by the river from San Francisco, with which it is also connected by the western division of the Central Pacific railroad.  It is a flourishing place of twelve thousand inhabitants.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>These two great valleys suffer from two unfortunate conditions, though in the one valley the misfortune is greater than in the other.  They have both too much and too little water.  There are about three millions of acres of swamp and overflowed lands to be reclaimed, and the greater part of the remainder needs an artificial system of irrigation before the valleys can be brought up to their highest state of productiveness.  It does not require to be demonstrated that farmers will not undertake tillage in a country where the chance is very uncertain that the gathering in of grain will follow the sowing.  Sensible, thrifty men will hardly take shares in a lottery where the blanks are about equal to the prizes.  For this reason, although the San Joaquin valley has been open for settlement more than twenty years, and is as fine a body of land as can be found in the world for the growth of cereals, it is still very sparsely settled, and much of it entirely unoccupied.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In 1868 there was quite an influx of immigration to this valley.  But the three succeeding years were dry; the rainfall was quite insufficient, and there was an almost, and over much of the valley a complete, failure of crops, inso-much that there was in many cases absolute suffering for want of food.  Sheep and cattle were driven off and sold for whatever could be obtained for them, in order to save them from death by starvation.  The result was that a large proportion of the immigrants left the valley and sought places where, as they said, "it rained sometimes."  Multitudes went to Oregon.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The rain-fall in Stockton averages twenty inches.  Further south it is considerably less, and, of course, is not sufficient to secure crops of cereals.  In the years just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>From the fraction of the San Joaquin valley that was cultivated twelve millions of dollars' worth of wheat was taken, equal in value to more than half the product of all the mines in the State for the twelvemonth, while the number of producers in the case of the wheat was not equal to a tithe of those employed in getting the gold.</P>
126.sgm:<P>A writer says: "Nature or nature's God has done ninety-nine parts toward making these valleys one of the richest agricultural districts in the world; can man supply the small remaining fraction?"</P>
126.sgm:<P>Upon examination, it appears that every facility has been provided for doing what little remains to be done.  The valley of the San Joaquin declines toward the center, and on the eastern side there come down from the Sierra Nevada mountains innumerable streams, several of which are large, fine rivers.  On the western side there are few rivers, and none of any magnitude.  In the extreme southern part of the valley there are three lakes, one of which, the Tulare, is a large body of water, covering an area of seven hundred square miles.  Investigation has led to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The question, can these rich lands, for which nature has done so much, be irrigated in such a way and at such an expense as to make crops certain and profitable, becomes, therefore, an easy one to answer.</P>
126.sgm:<P>One of the advantages of living so far down in the ages is, that we have secured to us the chance of learning from the experience of those who have gone before us.  Empiricism is not a necessity in all directions.  In this matter of artificial irrigation experience has been ample, and the testimony that can be made available is abundant.  Systems of irrigation have existed as far back as the authentic history of man extends.  There were canals in Egypt for irrigating purposes before the pyramids were built.  In China, canals and ditches for this purpose were common long before the time of Confucius.  On our own continent, apparatus for irrigation was in use before the incoming of European population.  When Cortez conquered Mexico he found arrangements that had been made, at a great expense of labor and money, for supplementing the rain-fall.  There is abundant reason to believe that Arizona, dry and barren as it is, and barren because dry, was once a flourishing agricultural region, with hundreds of miles of irrigating canals and ditches, and a population numerous enough to build large cities and towns.  Even the Colorado desert, that most arid of all wastes, the worst part of which is comprised by the delta between the Gila and the Colorado rivers, was not always the forlorn and miserable place it is at present, and there is a fair promise that it will remain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Northern Italy owes its fertility and populousness to artificial irrigation.  There are twelve hundred miles of canals in Piedmont, and four thousand five hundred in Lombardy.  It is an interesting fact that the increase of population has been fifty per cent. greater in the irrigated district of Piedmont than in the non-irrigated.  Districts that were formerly desert wastes are now populous and productive.</P>
126.sgm:<P>But in China, where the density of the population makes it needful to make the most of all possible resources, artificial irrigation has been carried to the greatest extent.  The great plain of China, which has an area of two hundred and ten thousand square miles, is a vast network of rivers, canals and ditches.</P>
126.sgm:<P>There is also a vast and complete system of artificial irrigation in India.  "The Ganges canal is, perhaps, the largest work of the kind in the world.  Its full capacity is six thousand five hundred cubic feet of water a second; the width of the bed is one hundred and sixty-four feet, and the depth ten feet.  The main channel is three hundred and forty miles in length, and navigable throughout; the branches are three hundred and sixty miles aggregate length, and the distributaries three thousand seventy-one miles.  A carriage road is kept up on all the main and branch canals, and the banks are planted with trees."</P>
126.sgm:<P>These facts show what has been done in the old world, and the feasibility of meeting the needs of the case in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Men of enterprise and capital, most of whom are residents of San Francisco, formed a joint-stock company, which was incorporated by act of legislature in September, 1871, under the name and title of "The San Joaquin King's River Canal and Irrigation Company."  The capital amounted to ten million dollars, which was divided into one hundred thousand shares at one hundred dollars each.</P>
126.sgm:<P>"The objects are, the construction of a system of canals in the Great San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys in the State of California, leading from the San Joaquin river, the King's river and their tributaries, also from the Tulare lake, the Kern and Buena Vista lakes, and waters flowing thereinto, for the transportation of passengers and freight, and for the purpose of irrigation and water power, and also the supplying of cities and towns in the State of California with fresh water for domestic purposes; also the buying and selling of lands and real estate.  This company's charter is to exist for fifty years.  The preliminary objects of the company are the construction of main canals through Kern, Tulare, Fresno, Merced, Stanislaus, San Joaquin, Contra Costa and Alameda counties, leading from the above mentioned lakes and rivers, for irrigating portions of said counties, and for affording navigation the year round from Kern lake to tide-water near Antioch, a distance of three hundred miles."</P>
126.sgm:<P>The sources of supply are from the Sierra Nevada mountains, where the melting of snow during the spring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SENTINEL ROCK.  PAGE 221.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>Tulare lake, at its lowest stage of water, is rather over two hundred feet above the sea-level, and covers an area of seven hundred square miles.  Six feet of water drawn off its surface would suffice to irrigate five millions of acres of grain and cotton.  The average depth of the lake is from twenty-five to thirty-five feet.  There are no mountains or hills intervening along the course of the proposed main canal and the bay at Antioch.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The fall of the valley between the lake and tide-water at Antioch is about fourteen inches to the mile; and from the foot-hills of the Monte Diablo range of mountains, which bound its west side, to the San Joaquin river, the transverse fall of the valley is from six to twenty feet to the mile, so that the drainage is naturally perfect, and no swamps and malaria can be created by its proper irrigation.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The soil is of a rich brown loam along the west side of the valley, and a sandy, rich loam on the east side.  On the west side wells have been sunk over one hundred feet in depth through pure alluvial soil without any rock or gravel.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The surface of the ground generally along the west side of the valley is remarkably even, and unusually free from rivers and water-courses, so the cost of construction will be comparatively light.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The main canal from the lake to Antioch will have a discharge of fifteen hundred cubic feet per second, and be capable of carrying a depth of ten feet of water, with a width of one hundred feet.  The length of this canal will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>On the east side of the valley the numerous streams which have their sources in the Sierra Nevada mountains come down well filled, and best filled when most water is needed, for the hot summer sun, which dries the surface in the valley, melts the snow that is stored away in the mountains.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The value of these canals will be much enhanced and their profitableness increased by the fact that they can be used for transportation.  The advantage of water over land carriage on the score of cheapness is recognized the world over; and in these days of railroad monopolies and high tariffs, that advantage will have greater appreciation.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It is a somewhat startling fact that in the State of New York, with its multiplicity of railroads and comparatively low charges, in the year 1871-2 nearly one-third of the entire tonnage which passed through the State going from the west to the east passed over the Erie canal, which in the minds of many has become almost a thing of the past, so much more noise is made by the railroads!</P>
126.sgm:<P>A less amount of interest and energy in creating facilities for irrigation than have already been expended in building flumes and constructing ditches for mining purposes in California would convert these great valleys into one of the finest agricultural regions in the world.  Crops would then be certain, and when the husbandman sowed he might be sure that in due time he would reap and gather in his harvests.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>It will perhaps be a matter of surprise to those who have not looked into the matter, to know that the aggregate extent of mining ditches and canals built in California since 1851 reaches the extraordinary figure of five thousand three hundred and twenty-eight miles!  And they have been built at a cost of fifteen million five thousand four hundred dollars!  Some of these ditches cost from five hundred to one million dollars.</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>RECLAMATION.</P>
126.sgm:<P>NOT only are these vast quantities of land to be irrigated in order to bring them up to their highest producing capacity, but there are also three millions of acres from which the water is to be drained before it can be used for agricultural purposes.  This land consists in part of marsh land contiguous to the bay and its estuaries, and in part of tule lands which border the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers, and extend through a considerable part of both valleys, forming a strip varying in width at a greater or less distance from the river.</P>
126.sgm:<P>During the last three years much has been done toward reclaiming both classes of lands.  The success attending these efforts has been very gratifying.  The islands in the bays of Suisun and San Pablo, and the delta formed at the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, have been reclaimed or are now in process of reclamation.  This process consists simply in raising a levee or dyke high enough to exclude the water, and, when the marsh is salt, in freshening it by letting it lie till the rains have washed out the salt.  This operation may be quickened by flooding the land with fresh water from artesian wells, or any other source available.  It has been found that the second year after they have been reclaimed these lands will produce alfalfa, and the third year abundant crops of grain.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>The yield of these moist lands in alfalfa, timothy and the various grasses is enormous.  Five tons to the acre is considered an average crop, while as high as eight tons in a single year is not uncommon.  At fifteen dollars per ton a very handsome profit can be made.</P>
126.sgm:<P>On Sherman Island some of the lands cultivated in wheat yielded a profit of not less than thirty dollars to the acre, while the average was twenty-five dollars.  According to official reports, eighty bushels of wheat to the acre have been raised on some of these reclaimed lands.  Sherman Island, which lies in the bight of the delta formed by the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers just as they enter Suisun bay, has an area of sixteen thousand acres.  It has been reclaimed by building a dyke entirely around it.  The investment has been found to be a very profitable one.  Two crops even of potatoes can be raised in a season with large results each time.  The owner of a farm on the island sent to New York for three barrels of early rose potatoes, which had not then found their way to California.  By the time the potatoes reached him they had cost an extravagantly high price.  They were planted in January, and in June were ripe and ready for digging.  The farmer let them remain out of the ground until August, when he planted the entire yield of the first crop.  He had another prolific yield, which he sold at such rates as to give him the largest percentage on the original investment that any capital had ever returned to him.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Besides these swamp lands which Holland and other countries have in common with California, there is another class of lands which is peculiarly a Californian possession.  These are the tule lands, so called from the only product of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:the soil--the tule (pronounced in two syllables).  The tule is a species of bulrush, and judging from the size it must be the great father of all the bulrushes.  It grows from six to ten feet high; occasionally one more enterprising than its compeers attaining the altitude of ten feet.  The tule is straight as an arrow, and without joints or leaves or any appendage except upon the very summit, which is crowned with a head not unlike that upon the sorghum, only upon a reduced scale.  These tules grow so luxuriantly and thickly on the rich, swampy land that neither man nor beast can make a way through them; they must be trodden down and made into a sort of pontoon bridge and walked over.  During the fall or early winter they are often burned.  The fires made by the burning tules can be seen miles away, looking not unlike the fires on the prairies, except that the volume of smoke is greater and of a more tartarean color.  Woe to the laundress whose clothes are on the line out-of-doors when the tules are on fire anywhere within a radius of ten miles!  The soot comes down in large flakes, which sometimes so fill the air as to resemble a snow-storm, with the difference that each particular flake seems to have been dyed in an ink-bottle.  There is a belt of these tule lands reaching all the way from Kern lake to the Upper Sacramento.  These, like the swamp lands, are wonderfully productive when reclaimed.  The soil is frequently eighteen or twenty feet deep, and made up of a compound of matted roots and decayed tules.  These are so thoroughly decomposed below the surface of the living fiber, that cultivation, even the first year, is not difficult.  It is safe to calculate upon at least one-third <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>It will be readily seen that the reclamation of these lands, whether swamp or tule, will be of little avail without a system of irrigation which shall include and cover them.  The nature of the soil will make irrigation an absolute necessity.</P>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>NORTHERN CALIFORNIA.</P>
126.sgm:<P>THIS part of the State is well entitled to more attention than it has received.  The law of compensation which is found to prevail almost everywhere in this world is not inoperative here.  In some respects northern California has the advantage over any other part of the State.  In the first place there is not the same or an equal deficiency in the rain-fall, which in some places is double that in San Francisco, and is more equally divided in the times of falling.  In addition to the reason assigned for a greater rain-fall in a previous chapter, there is a local cause which coo&die;perates with the general one, at least in the counties bordering on the coast, namely, the prevalence of redwood forests, which have a remarkable power to arrest moisture and condense it into rain.  These redwoods ( <HI REND="italics">Sequoia sempervirens</HI>
126.sgm: ) belong exclusively to the Coast Range mountains.  Two conditions seem to be essential to their growth--the foggy regions peculiar to the Coast Range, and an underlying basis of metamorphic sandstone.  They are not found where these conditions do not co-exist.  From the northern part of the State down to Tomales bay, in Marin county, they form a continuous forest, increasing in width northward.  The redwood, though less in extent than its half-brother, the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
126.sgm:, or big-tree, has greater commercial value; indeed, in this respect it stands at the head of the list of California trees.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>These trees grow to a height but little less than that attained by the other species of <HI REND="italics">Sequoia</HI>
126.sgm:<P>Of these northern counties Humboldt is on many accounts the most attractive.  It has a fine harbor, and the only one in northern California.  Some of the finest redwood forests in the State are found here.  It has water privileges, abundant and good, on the river of the same name, which runs across it.  There is unused power <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>And yet there comes a doubt whether those who are whisked through northern California and Oregon by the iron horse will see as much beauty and enjoy as much as a certain person did who came through in a poor, uncomfortable mud-wagon, or a series of them, with four horses for locomotive power!</P>
126.sgm:<P>This ride was a part of an overland journey from Portland, and was made in the season of the year when the country looked its best, being arrayed in its autumnal garments.  Enough rain had fallen to lay the dust effectually, and even convert it into mud in many places.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The Siskiyou mountains form the dividing line between Oregon and California part of the way.  Soon after crossing these mountains we came to the pillar of stone, set up to show where Oregon ends and California begins.  Before long we crossed the Klamath river, and then the Shasta, and were soon at Yreka, which is the northern-most town in the State.  The name is not a corruption of the well-known Eureka of the old Greek, as might be supposed from its resemblance, but is the name of a tribe of Indians who formerly lived hereabouts.  The town is situated on a plateau four thousand feet above the level of the sea, and is the center of quite a large trade, being the place of interchange between miners and those who furnish their supplies.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Within the last few months this town has come into notice as being the base of operations in the war carried on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Poetic justice would seem to require that a hero who with a handful of followers could keep a great nation, with all its resources, at bay for so long should have other reward meted out to him than to be strangled with a halter!</P>
126.sgm:<P>One of the unpleasant things about the stage ride was the necessity of traveling by night.  As but one stage started from Portland in the twenty-four hours, and the driving was continuous, there was no escape from night travel.  Stopping by the way necessitated a twenty-four hours' delay, and the starting again at the same hour at which the stopping occurred.  Hence it came about, "total depravity" being inherent in inanimate things as well as some animate, that the very places and things, the sight of which was most desired, were almost sure to occur when they had to be passed in the night.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In consonance with this fact, the nearest point to Mount Shasta was passed in the darkness of the night, at which time we went within seven miles of its base.  This mountain is the crowning glory of the mountain system in northern California.  It is the memento put up to show the place where the two mountain ranges, that have been approaching so long, at last effect their union.  Mount <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:Shasta is fourteen thousand four hundred and forty feet high.  Until recently it was supposed to be the highest peak in the whole Sierra Nevada range, but late measurements prove that Mount Whitney and other peaks in the southern part of the State outrank it.  But it is doubtful whether any of them excel it in symmetry of outline and beauty of aspect.  During the weeks that I was in Vancouver, always beholding the beauty of Mount Hood, it did not seem that any other mountain could surpass, if, indeed, any could equal it.  But, like the unfortunate wight who could be very happy with either were "t'other dear charmer away," as often as I saw Mount Shasta I was divided in my allegiance.  During the three or four months that I had previously spent in the Upper Sacramento valley one of my great delights was watching this mountain and seeing it in all its different aspects.  When the sun was scorching everything, as it has a way of doing in that part of the valley, it was very refreshing to look up to this peak, which, with its white garments reaching away down as far as the eye could see, had so cool and quiet and placid an appearance.  It seemed like a saint that is lifted above the strife and conflict of the world by a serene faith in the high and the pure.  Although the mountain was more than one hundred miles from where I was, so pure was the atmosphere that it seemed quite near--so near that it would have been easy to believe it could be reached by an afternoon's ride.  Looking at it from afar so long had created an intense desire for a more intimate acquaintance.  Yet this chance must be lost, because we were to pass the nearest point in the night.  As there was no help for this and no change <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>But here again this same "total depravity" of things inanimate worked my loss.  Waiting and watching all the livelong day, not one glimpse of the mountain was vouchsafed to my longing eyes--not the most indistinct vision of the outline.  An uncomfortable drizzle, which was neither a good honest rain nor an ethereal mist that could be looked through, covered and concealed everything.  It was an impenetrable veil that was as effectual in obscuring all surrounding objects as the darkness of night could possibly be.  For such a misfortune there was no remedy within the reach of human might.  So I turned from the impossible to the possible, and tried to find out what I could about the soda springs.</P>
126.sgm:<P>There are several in the immediate vicinity, differing from one another in the kind and degree of impregnation.  Soda enters so largely into the combination in one spring that the water is used instead of yeast or baking-powder in the manufacture of bread.  Flour mixed with it rises quickly and nicely.  Some miners, who were digging for gold not very far away, had their cabin near this spring on account of the convenience of having this water with which to mix their bread.  In one of the springs the water is so strongly impregnated with the alkali that if used unadulterated it gives the bread the yellowish-green look so well known to cooks as indicating too <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>We started from the springs in the early morning, just in time to watch the signs and the miracles that attend the birth of a new day.  How wonderful the sight would be if repetition had not made it familiar!  First, a faint light appeared, the hills flushed, then brightened; soon the disk of the sun came up, and object after object took upon itself outline and form; then darkness fled away and everything was revealed.  A new day had come!  A new day, and one that was perfect!  There was no flaw anywhere in the sky or the air.  This was some compensation for the disappointment of yesterday.  Mount Shasta looked its best; it could not possibly have made any finer appearance.  What a day's ride that was which thus begun!</P>
126.sgm:<P>We passed Castle rocks soon after starting.  These rocks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The Sacramento river, for the first hundred miles of its course, is a very unruly stream, and refuses altogether to be navigated by anything.  Sometimes it goes along quietly, between its high banks and under the shadow of great trees, as though it were nursing itself and gathering strength for some conflict soon to come; then it boils and bubbles and tosses and fusses among the rocks and obstructions that come in its way.  Sometimes it is required of it to make its way through mountain passes, which it does fearlessly, leaving banks along the gorge that it makes one dizzy to look down from.  Having performed a feat like this, it runs on for miles, making long elbows and many angles, as though it were not in the least bit of a hurry, but had plenty of time to play if it chose, or cut up any caper that chanced to come into its head.  All the hill-sides <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>When the day was waning and the light already so dim that surrounding objects were to some extent obscure, we came near to some high hills or mountains that were very striking in their appearance.  They were white and destitute of vegetation.  We saw them for a long time; for, in going through a can&tilde;on, in order to avoid going over them, the road made almost their entire circuit.  Professor Whitney describes them as "the Gray mountains, sometimes called the Marble mountains, a range that stretches along the east end of the Cloud river.  Some of the points are three thousand feet high."  When the railroad reaches them, and transportation becomes possible, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Darkness covered the land before we came to Pitt river, which we crossed in a ferry-boat.  This stream rises on the east of the Sierra Nevada mountains, coming out of the southern end of Goose lake with quite a parade of noise and confusion.  It has enough force, by the time it gets to them, to make its way through the mountains, and then flows in a southeast direction till it unites with the Sacramento, to which it not only gives itself, but, woman-like, its name also, although much the larger river of the two, imitating, in this respect, the illustrious example of the Missouri, which yields its title and its individuality to the lesser Mississippi.  We crossed the Pitt river not far from its junction with the Sacramento.  Although not very wide, it is said to be absolutely unfathomable.  With a courageous moon, that was full and evidently determined to do its best to make up for the absence of the sun, our ride continued to be pleasant far into the night.  A soft glamour was cast over everything; outlines were revealed, and the imagination allowed to fill in as it chose.  The country is such as is generally found skirting the Sierra Nevada mountains.  It is but little broken, and much of it is entirely level, with grand old oaks scattered here and there, as though nature had undertaken to show what was the highest type of a landscape garden.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The road was smooth and good, and we traveled on without let or hindrance.  The only decided sensation experienced was when we drew near to a spot about twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:miles north of Red Bluff, where the stage had been robbed thrice within a short time.  It is a point where the road from Shasta comes into the one on which we were traveling, and the gold brought over both routes is put into the same coach.  The robbers had, in all three cases, been careful of the feelings and convenience of the white passengers, and had not molested them, being satisfied with taking the express-boxes and relieving the Chinamen, when there were any, of their surplus capital.  But it was not certain that such a state of mind was immutable among the robbers, and it was not quite pleasant to be at the mercy of the whims and oddities of men so lawless and irresponsible.  However, being by a chronic fatality a member of that class of travelers who are proverbially easy <HI REND="italics">coram latronibus</HI>
126.sgm:<P>Our stage-ride was over; the railroad was now at our service.  That there was fatigue connected with the ride was beyond dispute, but there had been ample compensation for all unpleasantness in the increased acquaintance with the country and the enjoyment in seeing much that was strange and beautiful.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Mount Shasta deserves a fuller description.  Standing as it does, with its head not much less than three miles above the valley in which it is situated, it looks even higher than it is because of its isolation.  There is no other peak near; it stands solitary and alone, the crowned "monarch of all it surveys."  The ascent of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Quite recently a weather-signal has been erected on the summit of the mountain, under the direction of the Federal Coast Survey.</P>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>A RANCH IN THE UPPER SACRAMENTO VALLEY.</P>
126.sgm:<P>DESCENDING from generals to particulars sometimes clears our ideas.  The mind interests itself more readily in and takes more kindly to an individual than a species.  Instead, therefore, of a general description of the Upper Sacramento valley, a particular account of a ranch will be given.  As the writer spent three or four months upon a certain one, there was opportunity to become thoroughly acquainted with the minuti&aelig; of its management.  These California ranches, consisting, as they often do, of many thousands of acres, are conducted on a scale of magnificence that would quite astonish practical farmers in other parts of the country.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The word ranch is a memento of the early Spanish occupancy.  There are many of these reminders all over the land.  The names of mountains, towns and rivers are frequently derived from the same language.  Oftentimes they are corrupted by English use, as is the case of this one, which is a hybrid, but, as such, current everywhere, together with its derivatives.  Farm-hands are called ranchmen.  A man is ranching horses when he takes them to pasture.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The ranch in question is located in the Sacramento valley, near Red Bluff, which is at the head of navigation on the Sacramento.  It is in Tehama county, on the east side of the river.  The ranch was originally a Spanish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>There exists in this locality a peculiarity which is often observable among the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada mountains.  The land is neither timber-land nor prairie, but is park-like, there being scattered here and there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:the grandest oaks that ever delighted the eye or made glad the heart.  They have the graceful sweep of the New England elm and the magnificent size that the rich soil of California enables them to attain.  There is now and then a live-oak to be seen among them, as if to make a little variety.  The trees are not so thick as to be serious <HI REND="italics">impedimenta</HI>
126.sgm:<P>The ranch extends about four miles along the river.  The abundance of water which it possesses is one of its best peculiarities.  There is not a field in the whole ranch through which there does not run a living stream.  These rivulets come down from the mountains through can&tilde;ons in the foot-hills, growing in size as they run along till they get to the valley, when they wind about here and there gladdening the earth and giving drink to the thirsty cattle as they, rejoicing, go on their way to seek the river.  There is a flouring-mill of large capacity on the ranch, the wheels of which are kept running by a never-failing supply of water furnished by one of these streams.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Between three and four thousand acres are sown with wheat and barley.  The machinery used in harvesting the grain works so fast that twelve hundred bushels of wheat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The grain is cut with "headers," which are driven through the field, and cut the stalks about six inches below the head.  Each header is accompanied with a train of three header wagons.  The wagon is built with one low side, and is driven along with this side so close to the header that the grain is thrown into it as fast as it is cut.  When one wagon is filled another is driven up, which in turn gives place to another, and so on in perpetual rotation.  These header wagons take the grain directly to the steam thresher, which is driven about to convenient places in the field.  The whole process of threshing, cleaning, etc., is gone through with on the spot, and the grain is at once put into sacks.  The wheat is so dry that no process or delay is required to prepare it for the market.  Being put into sacks, it is left on the field a month or more if need be, until it is entirely convenient to make some other disposition of it.  There is no danger of a sudden shower to occasion hurry in getting in the grain.  There is no fear of rain before the farmers' eyes all through the summer months.  Monsieur "Probs" would have an easy berth of it in that region.  The sky never leaks in harvest time.  Fifty acres per diem is the average amount cut through the entire season of harvest.  To carry on these operations a force of forty horses and about thirty men is required.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The process of putting in the grain is managed as follows.  Plowing is commenced as soon as the rain begins to fall.  This does not occur until late in November, or oftener in December.  Fifty horses or mules and about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>EL CAPITAN.  (3,300 FEET HIGH.)  PAGES 212 AND 215.</P>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:twenty men are employed from that time until March, clearing the fields, plowing, sowing, harrowing and going through with the various processes connected with planting.  All of the machinery and implements are of the best.  The old-fashioned plow, that a man was compelled to hold fast with both hands in order to make it "toe the mark," is altogether discarded in this enterprising and progressive country.  No plow is used that does not at least cut two furrows, and many cut three.  Buggy and sulky plows, in which a man may ride in a very gentlemanly way, are in use, and they often cost one hundred dollars.  From four to six, and sometimes even eight, horses or mules are attached to each.  When a half-dozen of these teams are driven in at noon or night, and released from harness, they easily suggest the disbanding of a small army.  The plowing does not always cease with the putting in of the grain.  Hundreds of acres are plowed so as to be ready for sowing before the fall rains begin.  This is called "summer fallowing," and is the surest way to secure a good crop.  These fields are "cultivated in;" that is, the grain is put in with a cultivator, which can be done at any time during the summer or fall, when convenience makes it desirable; for nothing will harm the grain while it lies on the ground.  It stays there, safe and sound, waiting for the rain that will come in the late autumn and make it spring up.  It will then have the whole period of the rains in which to grow, and by the time they are over it is too far advanced toward maturity to be harmed by their discontinuance.  As the rains sometimes delay their coming until late in December, where so much ground is to be plowed, it is difficult to plant all the grain in the ordinary way in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Labor is expensive.  Men receive thirty dollars per month and board for ordinary service.  In haying and harvest time there is an advance upon this price of from fifty to one hundred per cent.  At these prices men are plentiful, though they are not the best specimens of the article.  Many of them are men who have been worth their thousands of dollars, made in the mines; but by some move of the capricious goddess their dollars have vanished, and they are compelled to work for their daily bread.  "Jailbirds," too, not unfrequently light upon the ranch and remain stationary for awhile.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The supply of laborers is generally quite equal to the demand, and sometimes considerably exceeds it.  No arrangements are made for lodging them.  Each one furnishes himself with a pair of blankets, which he carries about with him, and he has a wide range for selecting a place where he will spread them and lie down to his rest.  The barn, the tool-house, the blacksmith shop, the granary, are all open to him, and he can decide where to choose at his leisure.  If none of these places suit him, he can lie down under the spreading branches of an oak and have the sky for his coverlet.</P>
126.sgm:<P>On this ranch the men have their quarters in a house at a little distance from that of their employer, where a Chinaman, hired for the purpose, prepares and dispenses meat and drink.  Five hundred tons of hay are cut in a season.  This hay is not timothy or clover, but wild oats, which grow luxuriantly in all the region.  No preparation of the field is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Six hundred head of cattle board themselves on the broad acres in parts of the ranch not under cultivation.  These cattle require no attention in summer or winter, except that two men, called vacqueros, a Spanish word meaning herdsman, are employed to ride around and see that they, in common with the hogs and horses, behave themselves with a due regard to propriety; that they throw down no fences and break into no fields.  There are between forty and fifty miles of fence on the ranch.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Twelve hundred hogs find themselves subject to the inexorable law, "Root, hog, or--die!"  They are most ungainly, villainous-looking creatures.  They have not the fear of man nor any other fear before their eyes.  They have evidently come from ancestors that were accustomed to look out for number one.  They abound in that valuable quality, self-reliance, which makes them desirable.  The smooth, unctious, aristocratic-looking Chester whites are not tolerated on the ranch.  They were tried and found wanting in the tact and energy needful for digging <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Fourteen thousand sheep, under the care of shepherds, crop the grass at their leisure, and at no season of the year require shelter or feeding.  There is a shepherd for each two thousand sheep.  He keeps an eye on them during the day to see that they do not wander away, and at night gathers them into a corral, or some protected place, near which he sleeps in a tent or cabin.  These sheep are not expected to be all pastured on the ranch.  A part are kept on unoccupied lands, and in the summer, when the pastures wither and dry up for want of rain, they are driven to the mountains, where they are watched and cared for by the shepherds.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Sheep-growing is a very profitable business in this region.  The increase is very rapid; from eighty to one hundred per cent. per annum being safely calculated upon, with good care.  With wool at present prices sheep easily net two dollars per head.  In this part of the State it is customary to shear twice in the year; the first time in April, the second in August.  The fall clip averages from half to two-thirds as much as the spring.</P>
126.sgm:<P>No kind of animal is ever sheltered or fed except the working horses.  These are kept on barley and hay. Between three and four thousand bushels of barley are fed in a season.  No Indian corn is raised, except for table use, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The winters are very pleasant.  Although there is more rain than farther south, there are many days, and sometimes even weeks, in succession when there is but little or none, when the sky is clear, the sun bright, and the air pure and exhilarating.  But in summer the heat is intense.  The mercury goes up to 112&deg;, 115&deg;, and even to 118&deg; and 120&deg; in the shade.  The women and children, and all that can, migrate to cooler regions.  Many persons have summer-houses in the mountains, twenty or thirty miles away, to which they flee for comfort and safety.  Others go to "the bay," as they always say in speaking of San Francisco, and remain there through the two or three hottest months.  The intense heat and luxuriant vegetation have the effect to produce malaria, which generates chills and fevers.  These ailments are not at all uncommon in this region.</P>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>A FRUIT RANCH ON THE SACRAMENTO RIVER.</P>
126.sgm:<P>THE fruit of California is now known of all men, and women too, at least in our own country; but all do not know it in its best estate.  Most varieties are not improved by age.  To appreciate its delicate flavors and sweet lusciousness, it must be eaten where it grows, and tasted not long after it has left its parent stem.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It was my good fortune to spend several weeks upon a ranch that is esteemed one of the best in the State for fruit-growing.  I thought myself happy to be there, not once only, but thrice at different seasons of the year, and have therefore had a chance to make myself thoroughly acquainted with the various operations by which such a ranch is carried on.</P>
126.sgm:<P>One of these visits occurred in the delectable season of the vintage.  Shall I ever forget those delicious black Hamburg grapes?  The white muscats commend themselves to the taste of many, and gain their preference; but as for me, give me Hamburgers, black, juicy and rich, and I will let who will have the others.  The only fault I have to find with them is, they tempt too strongly to over-indulgence.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The ranch in question is situated on the Sacramento river, about a score of miles below the renowned city of that name.  The land lying along the river between Sacramento and San Francisco is considered as good as any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>San Francisco is the market for the fruit, as well as all the other products of these ranches.  Nothing is ever carried to Sacramento, though so near.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The large boats that ply between that place and San Francisco make but few landings, and do scarcely any of the way business.  Two small sized steamers come up and go down on alternate days, and do a sort of general carrying trade.  They go from ranch to ranch gathering up the baskets and boxes filled with fruit, and leaving the empty ones that are sent back by the consignees.  Crossing the river diagonally is about all the headway gained sometimes for miles.  As many as five thousand packages are handled by the men on these boats during a single trip, and the average number is about three thousand.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Apples, pears and grapes are shipped in boxes; most other kinds of fruit are sent in baskets.  In this shape they are consigned to dealers in San Francisco, who, of course, have a percentage on the sales.  The baskets and boxes are returned when emptied, as a general rule.  Sometimes, in exceptional cases, the fruit is sold in and with that which contains it.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The ranch which is the subject of this writing was bought some fifteen years ago by the present owner at a cost of fifty-five hundred dollars.  It was at the time of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Pears are the first fruit sent to market.  These are dispatched the last of May, and those sent earliest command large prices, sometimes reaching as high as twelve cents per pound.  The Madeline pear is the earliest; it is a very poor excuse for a pear, and later in the season would not sell at any price.  A box of pears contains forty pounds.  About two thousand boxes of this fruit are sent to market in a season, which bring an average price of one dollar and seventy-five cents per box.  One hundred and fifty baskets of plums are sold at one dollar per basket.  One hundred baskets of figs at from seventy-five cents to one dollar and fifty cents per basket.  Fifty boxes of quinces at an average of one dollar per box; and three thousand boxes of apples at an average of one dollar and twenty-five cents per box.  The receipts for cherries amounted to five hundred dollars.  The vineyard furnished fifteen hundred boxes of grapes, the black Hamburgs averaging one dollar and fifty cents per box, and the white muscats two dollars.  There were more than twice as many muscats produced than there were Hamburgs.</P>
126.sgm:<P>This is the product of the sixty acres of river frontage.  There are five hundred and eighty acres of land to be used <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The residue of the ranch is devoted to dairy purposes.  There are kept upon it about forty cows, from which there is a yield of one hundred pounds of butter per week.  This is sent to San Francisco, where it is sold at the average price of thirty-seven and a half cents per pound.  The cows are not housed in winter, though they are fed a part of the time.  There are fifty acres of alfalfa, or Chili clover, which is a species of lucern.  This is wonderfully productive.  The cattle are allowed to feed upon it from November until May, when they are turned off, and after that three crops are cut for hay, one crop being permitted to stand until the seed is ripe.  This seed commands a ready sale in the market, and averages the owner about five hundred dollars per annum.  About five hundred dollars' worth of beef is sold annually, the cattle bringing thirty-five dollars per head.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Of course, the master does not sleep while these processes go on.  He is a prompt and attentive business man, and everything is kept up to the mark; but his is a life <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>None but Chinamen are employed on the ranch.  The owner will have nothing to do with any other laborers, because he finds in these faithfulness and obedience--qualities which he looks for in vain in any other race.  From six to ten Chinamen are kept at work all the time.  In the season of gathering the fruit this force is sometimes doubled.  In the winter time--winter by courtesy--they plow, prune, graft and transplant.  There is no suspension of operations on account of frozen ground or inclement weather, though, of course, there is occasionally a rainy day when nothing can be done.  One of the Chinamen has been employed six or seven years, and acts as interpreter and foreman.  The laborers receive twenty-eight or thirty dollars per month and board themselves.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The statement of a fact will show to what extent the owner of this ranch trusts the Chinamen in his employ.  Three years ago he went east twice; the first time in March, to accompany his family on a visit to their old home in Ohio.  In September he went again to bring them back, and each time he was gone six weeks.  During both absences he left the Chinamen in charge on his ranch.  The whole business was in their hands.  They gathered and shipped the fruit and attended to whatever was needed.  Of course, as the fruit was consigned, there was nothing to be done in the way of making sales.  When the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>This ranch is one hundred miles from the Golden Gate, and both the wind and tide reach it and affect the situation.  There is enough of the influence of the trade-winds during the summer to counteract the intense heat of the sun, and it is very seldom uncomfortably hot.  Here, as almost everywhere in California, the nights are cool and delightful.</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>A CHAPTER FOR TOURISTS.</P>
126.sgm:<P>THERE is a time for all things under the sun.  If this is true as a general proposition, it is emphatically so when applied to a visit to California.  A very little rehearsing of the climatic conditions will show the reasons.</P>
126.sgm:<P>By courtesy the rains are said to begin in November, but as a matter of fact there are seldom more than a few showers in that month, which barely suffice to lay the dust for a few days.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Rain sufficient to start vegetation cannot be depended upon until December has well advanced.  Two or three weeks thereafter greenness begins to creep over the hillsides, and the earth puts on its spring attire.  Again, there is seldom much rain after April is past.  A few showers come in May, occasionally, but not enough for vegetation to hold its own against the sun.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Sahara is not drier and more desert-like than are parts of California after three, four, five and six months have passed, during which a clear, unchecked sun has been shining upon the thirsty land, drying up the juices of plants and extracting every particle of moisture from the surface of the earth, and down below the surface as far as the heat can penetrate.  The dust becomes something fearful, and any kind of wheeled vehicle stirs it up and so puts it in motion that riding is a pleasure to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Whoever, therefore, would see the country in its best estate must do so between say the latter part of January and the end of April.  Every day after the last date will detract from its beauty, and be so much subtracted from the admiration and enjoyment that its meridian glory would occasion.</P>
126.sgm:<P>There is no part of California, no place in it, which tourist will be likely to wish to see, that cannot be visited with entire convenience during the time specified, except the Yosemite valley.  On account of the great quantity of snow that accumulates in this locality, a journey to it cannot well be made until the end of May.  After the snow is melted, so that the trip is practicable, the sooner it is made the better, because early in the season the streams are fuller and the falls more wonderful than later.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Southern California should be seen in February or March, if possible.  The oranges will not then all have been gathered, and everything will be looking its best.  The rain-fall is so much less in this part of the State than it is farther north that, of course, it dries up sooner.  Let no one who visits this part of the State fail, either in going or coming, to make the trip by land.  It is better to go down by sea and return by stage.  The ride, to be sure, will be fatiguing; but rest can be taken by the way, if need be, by stopping over a day.  After the ride is finished, there will be great comfort in feeling that you have accomplished that for which you went--you have seen something of the country.  For how can you know anything about the land by sailing past it on the ocean, especially if you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>After the southern trip you can take the others in whatever order you please.  You will probably make San Francisco your base of operations, and you will find much in the city itself to please and interest you.  One of the first places that you will visit will be Woodward's gardens, where you will find among the native products some immense "grizzlies" and huge sea-lions, or seals, as they are more generally called.  Ungainly and awkward-looking as they are, you will discover a strange pathos in their brown eyes if you regard them attentively enough.  If you have the time to spare, you can well spend a day there, and then not feel willing to depart.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Your first ride will probably be to the Cliff House, to see the seals and the Pacific ocean.  This is a pleasant ride, and you can take a carriage and have the privilege of paying several dollars for it, or, if "of a frugal mind," you can go in the public conveyances for thirty or forty cents.  If you have not seen the Pacific ocean before, that will be the great attraction--the grand sight for which you will most care.  But the seal rocks, and the seals sporting on them, will also claim attention.  There are three or four of these rocks only a little way out in the ocean.  One of them is as high as a meeting-house; but the great lubberly seals contrive to get up to the top of it.  These seals are protected by law, and really seem to have a very good time of it.  They come up on the rocks to sun themselves, and here they squirm and squabble and bark and play and fight.  Those who go often to see them make acquaintance with them as individuals, and even know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Either going to or coming from the Cliff House you will stop at Lone Mountain cemetery, which is the principal one belonging to San Francisco.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The Chinese quarters will be the most attractive because most peculiar part of the city.  The sights and wonders visible among these very peculiar people are recorded in another chapter devoted especially to them.</P>
126.sgm:<P>No one will fail to visit Oakland, beautiful Oakland, on the other side of the bay.  Although only eight miles from San Francisco, it is so protected by a change in the trend of the coast, and by the hills which break the force of the wind, that the climate is much milder and more desirable.  It has, too, more of the sobriety and steadiness of an eastern city than any other place in California.  The Sabbath is quiet and well observed, except that there is sometimes disturbance occasioned by picnickers from San Francisco passing through on their way to a pleasant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The University of California, with true western liberality, opens its doors to all, without regard to sex, color or condition, free of charge.  This institution is located at Berkeley, five or six miles from Oakland.  The site is as charming as can well be conceived.  The grounds run up on to the foot-hills of the Contra Costa mountains, and are handsomely ornamented with acacia, eucalyptus and other evergreens, with the beautiful pepper tree sprinkled in here and there to give the finishing touch to the landscape.  From every part of the grounds you can look right out of the always open Golden Gate to the limitless ocean beyond.  The view alone is worth twice the journey necessary to secure it.  The buildings are of a fine granite brought from Folsom, some thirty miles from Sacramento.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The live-oak grove in which Oakland is built has been very tenderly treated.  Not a tree has been cut down that could be spared.  Trees have even been left standing in some of the streets, and the carriage-ways wind about hither and thither in order to avoid them.  But of course this indulgence cannot be continued; as business and population increase, these hinderances to safe transit must be taken out of the way.  In Oakland the perfection of beauty exists in the way of artistic combinations and arrangements of flowers and shrubs and trees.  The delightful climate and rich soil render such things possibilities when there are found the wealth and the taste to use <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The bay of San Francisco is a very perfect sort of product, look at it from what point you will--&aelig;sthetic, commercial or climatic.  It is the only break in the Coast Range mountains between Puget Sound and the Gulf of California, and the only water communication between the ocean and the interior valleys.  It is completely land-locked, and is generally conceded to be the second best harbor in the world.  It is fifty miles in length, extending both north and south from San Francisco.  It reaches about forty miles below San Francisco, in a southeasterly direction.  The valley along its western border is one of the finest in the State.  Causing a break, as it does, in the Coast Range mountains, the ocean wind comes through, and, following the line of the bay, makes the inhabitants of all the regions round about participants in the refreshing and invigorating influences of the sea-breezes.  The average width of the bay is nine miles.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The Golden Gate, as the strait by which it is connected with the ocean is called, is less than a mile in width at the opening, and because it was so narrow it escaped for centuries the scrutinizing eyes of the mariners who sailed along the coast.  There are sixty feet of water in the channel.  The arrangements for defense could scarcely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>This island is called Alcatraz, and is bristling with ordnance from bottom to top, and is always ready to repel a hostile invader.  Northeast of Alcatraz, and also commanding the entrance, is Angel Island, the largest and most valuable of the three government islands in this part of the bay.  Still further from the gate, and east of these two, is the island of Yuerba Buena, or Goat Island, as it is now generally called.  This is the coveted morsel that the Central Pacific Railroad has been and is so anxious to swallow.  The road extends out into the bay three miles, a wharf being built that distance in a direct line toward Goat Island, to which another mile would bring it.  Of course it would be better to have a place on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
126.sgm:<P>The maximum rise of water at full tide at San Francisco is eight feet.  The influence of the tide is felt as far as navigation extends, both in the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers.  At Sacramento, one hundred and seventeen miles from the Golden Gate, the rise is two feet six inches, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>One of the pleasant expeditions from San Francisco will be to San Jose&acute;.  This is a beautiful town of ten thousand inhabitants, about fifty miles from San Francisco, and eight or ten from the head of the bay.  The town of Santa Clara is three miles distant, and the two are connected by an alameda or avenue, on each side of which are large old willows, planted by the Spanish padres connected with the mission at Santa Clara nearly a century ago.  The greater part of the trees have borne the ills of life so heroically that they are still vigorous.  San Jose&acute; can be reached by two railroads--one each side of the bay.  The court-house in the town is said to be the finest building in the State erected for that purpose.  A beautiful picture is spread out before the eye from the top of the dome.  Orchards and vineyards, groves and meadows, mountains and valleys meet the vision, while tasteful houses and charming grounds in the nearer space excite admiration.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The climate of San Jose&acute; is particularly attractive, especially in the winter.  The winds from the ocean lose much of their fierceness before they reach it, and yet bring enough invigorating influence to make them acceptable and health-giving.  In summer the heat sometimes transcends the point of comfort; still it by no means reaches the extreme that it does in valleys shut out from the influences of the sea.  This upper Santa Clara valley is the most highly cultivated valley in the State.  A ride through it in March will give a vivid idea of the capacity of the genial climate and fertile soil of the country.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The New Almaden quicksilver mines are twelve miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>A trip to Monte Diablo is among the things that will pay.  This mountain, although not very elevated, is very conspicuous because of its isolation.  Having become so well acquainted with it in the distance, it was pleasant to know it more intimately, though it was not the mountain itself, but the view to be had from its summit that formed the attraction.</P>
126.sgm:<P>We were a party of five, in which the feminines had a majority of one.  Our wagon was spacious enough to accommodate us all, with our bundles and carpet-bags.  We started from Benicia at three o'clock in the afternoon, and, crossing the straits of Carquinez in the ferry-boat, were soon in Martinez.  The hills carpeted with green, the smiling fields that gave rich promise of harvests to come, the voice of the meadow-lark, thrown in now and then to give us a thrill of melody, were pleasant adjuncts by the way.  An hour's ride brought us to Pacheco, which had rather a washed-out appearance.  The winter rains seemed to have been more copious than the needs of the place required.  Then we came to a little village called Concord, and from there found a smooth and pleasant road to Clayton, where we spent the night.</P>
126.sgm:<P>As everything depended upon our having a clear day for the ascent of the mountain, the weather was a matter of more than usual interest.  There were ominous clouds hanging round the horizon, and when we retired at night we had many misgivings as to what might be on the morrow.  During the night we heard the patter of rain upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>But the morning proved better than our fears led us to anticipate.  The face of the sun was clear and bright, as though benefited by its recent washing, and the only trace of the storm visible was the snow upon the top of the mountain.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The summit of the mountain is about seven miles from Clayton, and for half the distance we could keep our seats in the wagon.  As some of us had no great confidence in our equestrian skill, we were glad to keep to wheels as long as we could.  Therefore our riding-horses were led till we reached the end of the drive.  Then came the time of trial.  Whether we should be able to retain our seats in the saddle remained, in the case of some of us, a problem to which the Q. E. D. could not be attached until the end of the journey.  To those who were at all at home in the saddle there was nothing terrible in the ascent.  It is possible to ride all the way to the top, though in some places the acclivity is so steep that walking is easier for the tourist, and certainly more merciful to the horse.  The compensation for whatever fatigue there is, is ample nearly all the time.  Payment is not deferred until the work is done.  We had not gone up far before glimpses of the valleys and the far-off mountains were an earnest of what awaited us when the summit was achieved.  There was one brilliant part of the show that we could almost flatter ourselves had been prepared for our special and particular gratification.  The storm of the previous night had left its traces on the trees and bushes, which were all encased in ice.  The sun shining upon them gave them a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:brilliancy of appearance that was dazzling to the eye.  Diamonds and all kinds of precious stones seemed waiting to be gathered as fruit from the trees.  Clouds passed over the sun now and then, and their shadows flitted over the landscape, making it seem to fluctuate to the eye.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Dark hollows seemed to glide along<LB>And chase the sunny ridges."<LB></HI>
126.sgm:<P>When we reached the summit, such a view was spread out before us as I never dreamed could be taken in by the eye.  On one side we looked out through the Golden Gate to the boundless ocean beyond; the Farrallones lay there like specks in the ocean; nearer was San Francisco, spread out like a map, with every street distinctly marked.  Vallejo, Benicia, Pacheco, New York, Antioch, and several other towns could be easily seen.  All this was viewed with the naked eye.  Think of seeing the whole State of New York at a glance!</P>
126.sgm:<P>Prof. Whitney says: "From the summit of Monte Diablo the view is panoramic, and perhaps unsurpassed in extent.  Owing to the peculiar distribution of the mountain ranges of California, and the position of Monte Diablo in the center of the great elliptic basin, the eye has full scope over the slopes of the Sierra Nevada to its crest, from Lassen's Peak on the north to Mount Whitney on the south, a distance of fully three hundred and twenty-five miles.  It is only in the clearest weather that the details of the `Snowy Range' can be made out; but the nearer masses of the Coast Range, with their waves of mountains and wavelets of spurs, are visible from Mount Hamilton and Mount Oso on the south to Mount Helena on the north.  The great interior valley of California, the plains of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Of course no tourist will fail to visit the Geysers.  There are two ways of reaching them, by way of Healdsburg and by way of Calistoga.  The former route leads past Petaluma, Santa Rosa, etc., to Healdsburg, and then over "the hog's back" to the Geysers.  It is well to go one way and return by the other.</P>
126.sgm:<P>We left San Francisco at four o'clock in the afternoon in the steamer, and in an hour and a half were on the other side of the bay at Vallejo.  The cars awaited us here, and we were whisked through the beautiful Naper valley more rapidly than we wished.  This is one of the most beautiful and fertile districts in California.  It would be difficult for the elements of fine scenery and charming landscapes to enter into combinations that would surpass what is here seen.  Oaks, the magnificence of which could scarcely be surpassed anywhere in the world, dot the landscape here and there, while orchards and vineyards and fields of golden grain--golden at the time of our visit--interspersed with "patches" of Indian corn, the first I have seen in the State, make up a wonderful beauty of shade and color.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Just at evening we reached Calistoga Springs, where we remained all night.  There is much that is attractive about this place.  Springs of almost every kind are found, hot, cold and tepid.  One spring seems especially designed for the accommodation of the laundress.  The water is soft <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>When strolling about the grounds in the morning a tasteful, rustic structure arrested my attention.  "Nature's Kitchen" was written over the door in large letters.  It seemed worth while to go in and see how the dame acquitted herself when she ventured into the department of culinary art.  If she performed her duties as deftly in that line as she does her work generally, there might be something learned from an investigation.  The door was entered.  A comely youth seemed to be acting as the old lady's adjutant.  He asked if I would have some chicken broth.  The reply being in the affirmative, he proceeded to dip some water from a spring which was bubbling and boiling all the while, and, adding a little pepper and salt, he presented the cup.  It was chicken broth, sure enough! and almost too hot to eat with comfort.  In what subterranean fields the chickens were fed, and how far underground was the kitchen in which they had been prepared and put in the pot, there was no witness to testify.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Near by was another queer sort of structure, which proved to be a grotto made of petrifactions brought from a petrified forest some five miles south of Calistoga.  This forest is on a ridge which separates the Napa and Santa Rosa valleys, and was discovered in 1870.  The examination that followed the discovery led to the finding of parts of one hundred or more large forest trees in a state of petrifaction.  They were all prostrate, and seemed to belong to living species of conifer&aelig;.  It is supposed that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE DEVIL'S CAN&tilde;ON.  VIEW LOOKING UP.  PAGES 153 TO 160.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>At seven o'clock in the morning we took our seats in the coach and started for the Geysers.  The tourists filled three wagons that morning.  These were open-covered, four-seated vehicles, each drawn by six horses.  The first ten miles was through a farming country, and level a great part of the way.  Then we changed horses, and the perils of the journey began.  We commenced the ascent of the mountains, and for ten miles wound along their sides, rising higher and higher at every step.  The road is a marvel.  It is cut in the sides of the mountains, and follows all their windings in and out, turning angles as sharp as the crook of one's elbow, with only about six inches of leeway, and seeming, in places, not to have even so much as that where the road is excavated in the solid rock.  As we ascended, the views became continually finer and finer.  We looked off over mountains that seemed to rise one upon another, and to follow each other in almost endless succession.  They were clothed with firs and pines to their very summits.  In the distance lay the Pacific ocean, glistening in the sun and seeming near, though seventy miles away.  Mount St. Helena was the presiding genius of the near landscape.  Although only about four thousand feet high, it overtops its compeers, and is the observed of all observers.  It was named for the Grand Duchess Helena of Russia, by the gallant Russian who first ascended it in 1841.  He placed a metallic plate upon the summit, to bear record of his ascent, and to record the name which he had bestowed upon the mountain.  The plate was afterwards taken possession of by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>All preconceived ideas of the Geysers were doomed to be disappointed.  The pictures in the Geography, of the geysers in Iceland, had perhaps unconsciously been the models upon which expectations had been formed; but they proved very wide of the mark.  Pluton river runs along just in front of the hotel, and continues on its winding way until it finds the Russian river, into which it empties.  The gorge through which it runs is quite narrow, and is called Pluton can&tilde;on.  There is said to be fine trout-fishing in this little stream, and some conveniences are provided which are not always found in conjunction with opportunities of the kind.  There are places where the fisherman, after having caught his fish, without moving may cast it into a hot spring, and bring it out done to a turn and ready for eating.  Not very far from the hotel there is a hot, acid spring, to the water of which, if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Geyser can&tilde;on opens into Pluton at rather an acute angle.  We entered at the lower end, and soon the hissing, shaking, roaring, and quaking began.  The forces of Pandemonium seem to be released, and to have collected here to try what they can do.  Passing alum springs, sulphur springs, black as the fabled Tartarean gulf, and many other kinds of springs, we come to the Devil's Inkstand.  Whether he uses the ink for making records or not, other people do.  We were told that the register at the hotel was kept with it, but in the case of one of our company who tried it, it did not prove durable.  The writing soon faded, and after a while was obliterated.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The ground becoming hot, rapidity of motion is a necessity, and yet each time you put your foot down with hesitation, as though it might perchance get into the way that takes hold on death.  The air becomes oppressive, steamy, thick, sulphurous.  You gasp; you hesitate; you conclude that this is one of the places in which it may be pleasant to have been, but it is anything else than pleasant to be in!</P>
126.sgm:<P>The way is slippery and the slime is ghastly, supernatural, infernal.  The can&tilde;on is so narrow that there is scarcely any room to spare by the side of the creek that runs through.  We are obliged to go first on one side, then cross over to the other, ascending all the while a pretty steep grade.  We come to a chair-shaped rock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:which is called the Devil's Chair.  Finding it vacant we do not disdain to take a seat for a few minutes to recover breath and wipe off the perspiration.  Sulphur, and many compositions of which you do not know the name, are around you.  Everything wears an unearthly look, and you can easily persuade yourself that you have indeed invaded the dominions of the Infernal Majesty, to whom the whole region seems to be given up, and whose stamp everything wears.  Soon after we come to the Devil's Pulpit.  What he wants of a pulpit it would be difficult to guess, unless it be in those times when he arrays himself in garments of light the better to deceive his victims.  The Devil's Grist Mill, which he makes a great noise in turning, is near by.  But far above all other sounds the Steamboat Geyser makes itself heard.  The resemblance to a steamboat letting off steam is perfect.  This noise is made by a column of steam rushing out of the side of the mountain.  It sometimes ascends to the height of three hundred feet.  Near this is the Witch's Caldron, as weird-looking a place as can well be imagined.  It is a black hole seven or eight feet in diameter, and is said to be absolutely unfathomable.  It has been sounded to the depth of twelve hundred feet without reaching bottom.  The rock is black in which the cavity lies, the mixture is black, and it is boiling, bubbling, seething around, now rising to within a foot or two of the top, then falling back, hissing, steaming and howling as though it had been balked in its efforts to accomplish a purpose.  I looked down into it almost expecting to see <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The eye of newt and toe of frog,<LB>Wool of bat and tongue of dog."<LB></HI>
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126.sgm:<P>Undoubtedly they were there, but they were undistinguishable in the diabolical mixture that continued to "like a hell-broth boil and bubble."  In another place we found the Devil's Tea-kettle.  I wonder what kind of tea he uses!  There is much in our markets that might be sent to him; it might not hurt him, and surely the tea-drinkers in the world would be the better for its loss.  Finally the summit of the route is reached, over which streams the tricolored flag, and we feel that we are once more in our native country.  There is a feeling of relief that we have passed through the dominions of our arch-enemy and--are safe!</P>
126.sgm:<P>These curious and wonderful processes are now decided to be wholly the result of chemical action; volcanic power has nothing to do with them; the amount of moisture affects the manifestations.  Heat and chemicals are always in the great laboratory, and when enough moisture is added all the conditions for activity are met.</P>
126.sgm:<P>On our return we were so fortunate as to have a seat in the wagon driven by Foss, whose renown is coextensive with the fame of the Geysers.  That ride was worth the whole expense of the journey.  Not a loud word was spoken; not a crack of the whip was heard.  The reins seemed to be nerves to convey the will of the master to the steeds, that seemed to delight in obedience.  On we dashed, bounding around corners and shooting around angles.  The heads of the leaders were often out of sight, so sharp were the curves and so rapidly did we go.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Foss drives the last eighteen miles in an hour and three-quarters.  No accident, it is said, has ever happened upon the road, notwithstanding it is driven over so rapidly</P>
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126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The cost of the round trip from San Francisco and back is now estimated at sixteen dollars.  When the writer made the trip the cost was twenty-five dollars.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The beautiful beach at Pescadero is well worth a visit, and pebbles picked up there will be among the valuable trophies brought from the Pacific coast.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Pescadero is on one of the routes to Santa Cruz, which place should not be omitted if it is possible to reach it.  It is the Newport of California.  Being situated on a cove in the bay of Monterey, it is so protected from the winds as to be a very desirable summer resort.  It is a place of considerable business also, being second in this respect to San Francisco.  Tanneries are especially abundant, and a large amount of leather is manufactured.  One reason for this industry is the abundance of chestnut-oak that abounds in the vicinity.  The bark of this tree contains more and better tannin than that of any other tree.  Large quantities of sole-leather are exported, which on account of its superior quality commands an extra price in the market.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The six weeks spent in Santa Cruz by the writer have left many pleasant memories.  The visit was made during the months of July and August.  The mornings and evenings were so cool that a little fire was almost always needful for comfort, and even at midday a heavy shawl was essential when riding in an open carriage.  The rides are delightful in the vicinity, and one should never be finished without going to the beach and driving up and down a few times.  There was but one drawback to the pleasure of riding, and whether that drawback should come under the geographical head of climate or soil <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>It was here that acquaintance with Ying was made.  He had penetrated further into the <HI REND="italics">arcana</HI>
126.sgm:<P>Ying had the strange peculiarity of liking to have his own way, and when told to do anything that he did not want to do, he always took refuge in his imperfect understanding of the language: "Me not know."  How could he, poor heathen!</P>
126.sgm:<P>Ying adhered to the national customs in his dress.  His head was shaved, except a round place on the top about the size of a saucer.  The hair which grew upon this portion was braided, and coiled about like a crown.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Forests of redwood abound in the region of Santa Cruz, and are not among the least attractive things to be seen.  The old town of Monterey, the first capital of California, is across the bay and easily visited.</P>
126.sgm:<P>No traveler should go to the Pacific coast and return without stopping to see Lake Tahoe, one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, as it is one of the highest.  By leaving the Central Pacific railroad at Truckee it can be seen without fatigue, and without any great delay.  It is only fourteen miles from Truckee, and a good stage road, over which there are daily coaches, makes it within easy reach.  Lake Tahoe is six thousand four hundred feet above the level of the sea--higher than Mount Washington, that giant among the peaks of New England.  Estimates of its size vary; by some authorities it is put down as being thirty by fifteen miles, and by others twenty by ten.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It was cloudy the day we reached it, and the clouds rested, not on the tops of the mountains which surround the lake, but on their sides, while the summits stood out boldly in the clear atmosphere.  As though the lake said to them, "Come rest on this bosom," they nestled closely down, as if glad to find so beautiful a resting-place.  A pleasant little steamboat goes back and forth, carrying passengers to the different parts of the lake.  Never was water so clear and so blue.  We could look down forty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO></PAGEINFO>
126.sgm:<P>A ride in a row-boat, one pleasant morning, was particularly enjoyable.  We went over to Cornelian Bay, and along the first part of the way the lake was as calm as a summer evening.  The water which dripped from the oars, falling into the lake, made little circlets which the sun at once converted into rainbows.  These spotted the surface, and myriads of little rainbows danced hither and thither, some larger, some smaller, but all gay and beautiful.  A breeze sprang up while we were out, and when we returned there was another and different display.  The breeze roughened the surface of the lake, and the sun shone in such a direction that the crest of each little wavelet was converted into a brilliant diamond; thus they were glistening all around, dancing here and there, and all diamonds of the first water!</P>
126.sgm:<P>The mountains stand round about this lake as they do about Jerusalem, making such scenery as one does not easily tire of seeing.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The line which separates California from Nevada passes through the lake, so that a part of it is in one State and a part in the other.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Donner lake, so well known for its sad associations, is a beautiful little lake on the other side of Truckee, and in full view of the railroad.  It is well worthy of a visit and a nearer acquaintance than can be had from the railway.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>The cost of living differs greatly in different parts of the State.  In San Francisco and Oakland it is about the same in gold that it is in Philadelphia or Cincinnati in currency.  The charge at hotels is about three dollars per diem; at boarding-houses, almost anywhere between ten and twenty dollars per week.  Many persons, to whom it is convenient or desirable, rent furnished rooms and take their meals at restaurants.  The charges in restaurants are less than in eastern cities.  A breakfast or lunch, consisting of a cup of tea or coffee, a mutton-chop or piece of beef-steak, potatoes, bread, butter and pickle, can be had for twenty-five cents.  A certain person, in whom the writer has a first-class interest, who was scantily blessed with "filthy lucre," contrived to live in Oakland, during the whole winter, at an average cost of five dollars per week.  Two of these dollars went for room-rent, and the remainder covered the cost of board, fuel, washing, and all other needful things.  To be sure, many things were sacrificed that it would have been pleasant to have; but the privations were borne cheerfully, and amends were sought and found in seeing and enjoying the charming grounds of Oakland, which were a continual feast that never palled upon the taste, and in an occasional visit to San Francisco, over the waters of the beautiful bay.  In making any such arrangement, be sure and get a room into which the sun shines a part of the day, and the larger the part the better.  The days are rare, in Oakland and San Francisco, when it is really comfortable in the morning and evening without a fire.  But when the sun is shining, if you have a room into which its beams can enter, you will always be warm enough.  The prices of some things essential to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>A CHAPTER FOR SETTLERS.</P>
126.sgm:<P>SOMETIMES an affirmative is best reached through a pathway of negatives.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Those persons should not go to California with any expectation of prospering in material good who have not the tact and energy and enterprise to succeed in "the States."</P>
126.sgm:<P>There is not one element essential to success elsewhere that is not needed there; the urgency of an increased need might be emphasized.  It is true in California, as it is in other countries, that the easy places are already occupied.  There is a superabundance of clerks, book-keepers, teachers, civil engineers and professional men generally.</P>
126.sgm:<P>It is no longer the fact that fortunes can be made in a day in California, as they once were.  He who would thrive must do so there, as he would anywhere else, by patient industry, by economy and by earnest endeavors.  No one should go there expecting, or even hoping, that in some fortunate moment he may come across a nugget of gold that will prove a nest-egg out of which can be hatched a fortune.</P>
126.sgm:<P>But to one who goes expecting to endure hardship, expecting to toil, and especially expecting to <HI REND="italics">save</HI>
126.sgm:, the avenues to comfortable living are many and sure.  There is a tendency to large expectation growing out of the influence of early mining operations, when money was made rapidly, spent lavishly and all business transacted in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>At present it would seem that the first and strongest attraction is toward agriculture, in some of its numerous departments.  California is truly a paradise for farmers.  The summer is not spent in raising grain and other products to be eaten up by man and beast in winter, while nothing can be done; but the farmer continues steadily at productive labor all the year round.  Nothing requires to be housed or fed except the working-horses, or possibly the milch-cows, which will need to be fed a small part of the time.</P>
126.sgm:<P>If near a market, or if a market is easily accessible, fuuit raising is one of the most profitable as well as pleasant kinds of farming.  Less land is required than for raising grain.  There does not seem, at present, any danger of the supply exceeding the demand, as is shown by the price of fruit in the market of San Francisco.  Most kinds of fruit sell for more than they do in St. Louis or Cincinnati.  Even grapes, that grow everywhere so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The cultivation of small fruits is very profitable.  Strawberries, raspberries and currants always sell well, and can be easily cultivated if arrangements for irrigation are secured.</P>
126.sgm:<P>There is beginning to be much doubt as to the profit-ableness of the large-ranch system which has prevailed so extensively in California.  It is a well established fact that very few of the owners of large ranches have become rich, and in a majority of cases the original owners are poor men now, their lands having passed into other hands.  Some of those who continue in possession are cumbered with debt and troubled to know how to make the ends meet.  Of course there are exceptions to this rule.  There are owners who have the tact and energy to manage in a way to bring in large profits.  It is especially true in the raising of grain that there must be land enough to cultivate considerable quantities in order to make it profitable.  Labor is expensive, and machinery must be used as far as possible in its stead.  Steam and horse power must take the place of horses.  Such machinery is expensive, and there must be large profits to make it pay.  There is probably no country in the world that admits of so varied a range of agricultural pursuits, because there is no other where it is possible to cultivate so great a variety of products.  It would only be telling what is already known to write about fruits, grain, etc.  Statements will, therefore, be confined to some of the more recently tried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The wheat crop of California is handled in sacks.  There is but one grain elevator in the State.  Boats pass down the Sacramento and up the San Joaquin rivers loaded with sacks of wheat, which are piled up many feet high and lie uncovered and exposed.  The immunity from rain makes it safe to transport grain in this way.  The sacks thus used are made of jute, which is raised in India, taken to Scotland and manufactured into bags and then brought to California.  Of course there must be a profit for the producer of the jute, another for those who take the crude material to Scotland, another for the manufacturer, and yet another for the importer, by whom it is brought to this country, and finally, if the sacks are not bought at first hands, a profit goes into the pocket of the retailer.  It is not strange that all these items added together make a large aggregate which it takes one-eleventh of the entire wheat crop to pay.  The cost to the State for sacks is about two millions of dollars per annum.  The price is about fifteen cents per sack, but in times of scarcity it sometimes goes up to seventeen or eighteen cents.  Already something has been done toward supplying this demand.  A factory in Oakland turns out one million of bags annually, and more than a million are manufactured elsewhere in the State.  The jute is imported directly from India.  The sacks can be made for fourteen and a-half cents apiece and yield a fair profit.  Any soil and climate that will produce corn will also produce jute.  It is less difficult to raise than cotton, and more profitable.  Recently the experiment of growing jute was successfully tried on Kern Island.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Cotton-raising has passed beyond the period of experiment, and taken a position among established facts.  Mr. J. Ross Browne says:  "Experiments made in the culture of cotton show conclusively that this will soon become one of the great staples of the Pacific coast.  The area of land suitable for its growth is, however, limited.  It requires moisture, heat and comparative exemption from frost.  The alluvial lands of the San Joaquin valley adjacent to Kern, Buena Vista and Tulare lakes will, in all probability, prove as valuable for cotton lands as the best lands in Georgia.  Cotton produces fiber in diminished quantity, though of improved quality, when removed from a southern locality further north.  It never seems to be injured by the most intense heat.  When other crops, including even Indian corn, are drooping under a blazing sun, the large succulent-looking leaves of a cotton field will seem to enjoy the congenial atmosphere.  Cotton is decidedly a sun-plant."</P>
126.sgm:<P>California is particularly fitted for the growth of cotton.  The period between the late frosts of the spring and the early frosts of the fall is longer than is required to mature the plant, and the absolute immunity from rain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>There being no rain in summer, weeds do not grow, and the cotton has the whole strength of the soil.  This is particularly well adapted to cotton.  Sandy soil is found in the valleys and the adobe lands corresponding almost exactly with the black lands in the South, which are regarded as normal cotton soil.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The staple produced in California is superior to the great bulk of the production of the southern States.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Cotton, when it requires any irrigation at all, needs less than half the quantity necessary for the production of Indian corn.  The expense of its cultivation does not exceed that of corn, while the profit is much greater, and the cost of transportation is only a fraction of what it is for grain.  In the southern States it costs twelve cents per pound to raise it; in California, not more than six or seven cents.  There is scarcely any plant that requires so little moisture, and none for which irrigation is so well adapted.  The time may come when California will rank as the best cotton-growing State in the Union.  The Legislature has done what it could to encourage effort in this direction.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Experiments in the cultivation of rice have been sufficiently successful to warrant the expectation that this will become one of the profitable crops of the State, when complete arrangements are made for irrigation.  Rice requires so much water that nothing can be done satisfactorily in the way of raising it until the natural supply of the essential commodity can be supplemented.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In Fresno county experiments have been tried in raising coffee with a good degree of success.</P>
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126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Tea has also been tried in Santa Barbara county and elsewhere.  Although its growth has been proved a possibility, it may well be doubted if it can be cultivated with profit so as to compete with China and Japan.  Labor is so much dearer, and so much manipulation is required in the preparation of the article, that the cost can scarcely fail to be greater here than there.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Increased attention is being given to the dairy business.  The yield from this source was five million dollars for the year 1875.  The business is found to be profitable in whatever part of the State it has been attempted.  In Marin county, north of San Francisco, there are some fine dairies in which large profits are made.</P>
126.sgm:<P>At present there is, probably, no branch of business more profitable than sheep raising, whether tried on a large or a small scale.  A man who has sheep has also credit, for it is known that twice in the year he is sure of turning the product of his labor and care into gold; that is, in those parts of the State where sheep are sheared both spring and autumn.  The chances for this business are better in the northern than in the southern portion of the country.  There is more rain, and consequently the pastures do not dry up so soon.  Humboldt county is an attractive point.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Sheep are often let out on shares; the wool and the increase being divided equally between the owner and the one who takes care of them.  Hence in this business a man can get a start without capital.  But he must be willing to "deny himself."  For the time being he will be obliged to turn hermit, and care only for his flock.  He must be with them by day and near them by night; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The most desirable way of emigrating is to go in colonies.  Take your friends with you and you will have society that suits you, and will thus escape the longing and disquietude of home-sickness.  Make up your mind before going that there will be hardships and privations to be endured,--there must alway be in breaking up old homes and establishing new ones, especially if means are not abundant.  Go in the fall, early enough to get in crops before the winter rains set in; and be sure of <HI REND="italics">water</HI>
126.sgm: --whatever else you lack, see to it that you have this <HI REND="italics">sine qua non</HI>
126.sgm:<P>There is also great demand for skilled labor.  Mechanics and artisans will find abundant occupation, and get good wages.  San Francisco does the lion's share of the manufacturing executed in the State.  With a population of two hundred and fifty thousand, the returns of the last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Do not establish your faith and found your expectation upon any basis that has the lottery-principle for its support.  Be sure that there are many prizes and but few blanks before you invest.  Three crops out of seven will not do for a farmer.</P>
126.sgm:<P>If you are blessed with sufficient pecuniary means to enable you to live comfortably, and go to California for the sake of having a pleasant home in a most salubrious and delightful climate, Oakland or its vicinity would perhaps suit you better than any other part of the State.  You would there miss but few, if any, of the religious and social privileges to which you have been accustomed.  If the lungs are not quite sound, or there is any tendency to sensitiveness in these vital organs, go further from the coast--to San Jose&acute;, or, better yet, to Santa Barbara.  If climatic conditions alone influence your choice, undoubtedly the latter place is the one to which you should direct your steps.</P>
126.sgm:<P>No one thing was more of a surprise to the writer than the security there seemed to be to life and property.  The influence of the vigilance committees is still felt.  On the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VERNAL FALLS.  (350 FEET HIGH.)  PAGES 227, 228 AND 229.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>Another of the notable facts is the attention paid to schools.  The schoolmaster is abroad everywhere in the land.  The best house in the small towns and villages is frequently the school-house.  The public schools in the larger towns and cities do not seem to be one whit behind those in eastern towns and cities.  Seminaries for girls are quite numerous, and many of them well conducted.  The oldest in the State, and one of the best, is in Benicia, a very pleasant town on the straits of Carquinez.  In the days when the capital of the State was peripatetic, and the quick-wittedness of school-boys was tested by their ability to answer correctly the question, What is the capital of California?  Benicia had the honor of being, for a season, the place where the legislators gathered themselves together.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The want of religious privileges is sadly felt in the rural districts and thinly-populated parts of the country.  The influence of the miners and early settlers was not, and is not now, strongly felt in favor of the support of churches and religious ordinances.  Very often it is decidedly opposed.  The Sabbath is a holiday when visits are made and social enjoyments sought for.  Still, in these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The last word of advice to would-be settlers is this:  If you wish for full and reliable information in regard to California and all or any of its interests, apply for the same to the California Immigrant Union, No. 328 Montgomery street, San Francisco, and, if the writer may judge from her own experience, you will be served promptly, amply, and without cost.</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>THE CHINAMAN IN CALIFORNIA.</P>
126.sgm:<P>JOHN CHINAMAN is too important an institution in California to be dismissed with a mere passing notice.  There is no question connected with the development and present condition of the State to which the writer gave more patient and unprejudiced attention than to this.  What has been the result of the immense emigration from the "Central Flowery Kingdom" upon the material interests of the Pacific coast?  Have these almond-eyed laborers been a help or a hinderance?  Truthful answers to these questions were sought for with diligence, and every means of gaining accurate information called into requisition.  Personal observation and competent testimony were arranged side by side and compared.  Among intelligent men there seemed to be no great difference of opinion as to the beneficial results of their labors as railroad builders, as miners, as gardeners, as agriculturists, and as assistants in manufacturing establishments.</P>
126.sgm:<P>As to their employment in any of these capacities, the verdict was almost always in their favor.  That without their help in these directions the natural wealth of California could not have reached its present development in a quarter of a century to come, was generally admitted.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The old idea that Chinamen are specialists and imitators only has generally been thrown aside by those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:who come to know them well.  There is need of but little study of their character as a nation to show that such notions of the Chinese are <HI REND="italics">prima facie</HI>
126.sgm:<P>In all the world's history, China furnishes the sole and only example of a nation that has worked out its own salvation from barbarism and come up unaided into the light of civilization.  Even ancient Egypt, the cradle of the sciences, kindled its lights at the hearth-stone of the race in western Asia.  Greece borrowed light from Egypt, and Rome transferred the firmament, all ablaze with light, from conquered Greece to her own imperial realm.  But China, walled in by a cordon that was almost impenetrable, grew up from a barbarism common to all the nations into the full stature of a civilized country from its own inherent power and genius, without help from abroad or any imported influence.  When Buddhism was introduced into China, in the second century after Christ, the people had already advanced beyond anything that Buddhism could do as a civilizer.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Niebuhr made the assertion "that no single example can be brought forward of an actually savage people having independently become civilized."  But China accomplished this impossibility without a model and without a helper.  What no European nation has ever done this Asiatic people accomplished; and they were already well advanced in their progress when Greece was only spelling out its alphabet by the help of the flickering light brought from Egypt; when our own Saxon ancestors were clothed in skins and feeding on acorns; and when they were worshiping Odin, and making huge wicker images to be filled with smiling babes and rollicking children <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:taken from their mothers' arms and burned in honor of their god, the Chinese were already living in houses, obeying the law of marriage, draining swamps, clearing jungles and cultivating the ground thus reclaimed.  Without admitting the full extent of their claims to antiquity as a nation, the laws of evidence require us to accept as true the words found in their annals, dating back to the reign of Fuh-hi, two thousand eight hundred and fifty-two years before Christ.  They not only admit their original barbarism, but show by historical records how they advanced, step by step, from the starting-point.  Fuh-hi himself gave a new impulse to their progress.  He found the people dwelling in huts and caves, clothed in skins and living promiscuously together.  He left them, at the end of his life and reign, occupying better houses, wearing better clothing, eating better food, and obedient to the law of marriage.  In the second century after Fuh-hi the cycle of sixty years was introduced as a mode of computing time, and has been in use ever since, more than forty-five centuries.  No other chronological era ever lasted so long.  Two thousand years before Christ, when as yet Troy and Athens were not, the Chinese had an alphabet, rude to be sure, but still sufficient for a purpose.  They knew the properties of the arch, observed and made records of solar eclipses, used iron in the construction of bridges, and had some practial knowledge of metallurgy, specimens in the workmanship of which have come down to the present day.  The Chinese wall was built two hundred years before Christ.  There is a story current, though not altogether well authenticated, that eleven centuries before the beginning of our Christian era a chariot was presented to certain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>After the time of Confucius the advance of the nation was more rapid than before.  Among all the sons of men there has been no more wonderful man than Confucius; no other whose influence has been so lasting and so far-reaching.  Twenty-five centuries have only served to extend the range of his influence and increase its power.  During all these centuries his teachings have molded the character and governed the lives of the most populous nation the world has ever known.  There is still no sign of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:desuetude in the customs he established and the principles he taught.  When a foreign dynasty seated itself upon a conquered throne the systems of the conquerors were thrown aside, and the moral science and civil polity of the conquered were accepted in their stead.  Therein was followed the example of the Romans, who took for their school-masters the very people whose national life they had extinguished.  Confucius was born in the year 550 before Christ.  Pope says of him:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Superior and alone Confucius stood,<LB>Who taught that useful science, to be good."<LB></HI>
126.sgm:<P>No higher morality can be inculcated than he exacts.  Among the great teachers that have come into the world he is second only to Him "who spake as never man spake."  The difference between the former and the latter is the difference between the perfect skeleton clothed upon with flesh and blood, with muscle, sinew and integument, yet wanting vitality; wanting the informing soul and the living, breathing, moving being, having all the former attributes and added thereto the immortal spirit.  Confucius taught the "form of godliness," but it was lacking in power because the spirit was wanting.  He drew his motives from well-being in this life only, never referring to the Divine sanction or the rewards of immortality.</P>
126.sgm:<P>"What you do not want done to yourself do not to other," he says, putting into the negative form the "golden rule," which we have had from a higher Master.  "When you know a thing, to hold that you know it, and when you do not know it, to allow that you do not; this is knowledge."  A kind of knowledge for which none is the worse for being the possessor.</P>
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126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>But Confucius made no pretensions to being a religious teacher.  On the contrary, he expressly acknowledges his inability to give instructions in regard to a future state or anything that concerned men after death.  He said:  "I do not know what life is; how then can I explain death or declare what comes after?"  The results are what might be expected from the character of the instruction.  While the Chinese have advanced steadily in material prosperity, in coherence as a nation and in the knowledge and application of the useful arts, they have been, and are, spiritually dead.</P>
126.sgm:<P>One of the chief misfortunes that resulted from Confucius' ignorance of the Creator, and his plans and purposes in the creation of man, was the false position he assigned to woman.  The consequences of error always fail most heavily upon those who are the least able to resist them.  There-fore women have been, and are, the great sufferers on account of his mistake.  Confucius did not place woman on a common throne as the equal of man--his consoler and inspirer; only Christ did that.  He made her the handmaid of man, to minister to his pleasure and have for her "sphere" whatever he did not want to do; this was the vitiating principle in the Confucian system.  As the fountain cannot rise higher than its source, the son can never rise very much above his mother.  Therefore the status of woman is the true index to the grade of civilization.  What Confucius thought of women, and what the character of his instructions was, may be judged by the following extracts from his teachings:</P>
126.sgm:<P>"Moreover, that you have not in this life been born a male is owing to your amount of wickedness, heaped up in a previous state of existence,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>"You must know that for a woman to be without talent is a virtue on her part."</P>
126.sgm:<P>"No one desires that your <HI REND="italics">natur&aelig;</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"Wives! ye cannot but impress these words upon your memories.  In the male to be firm, and the female to be flexible, is what reason points out as a proper rule."</P>
126.sgm:<P>Talkativeness on the part of the wife was among the justifiable causes for divorce.  If, as some people suppose, the punishments of the other world bear some relation to the errors of this, may it not be that the spirit of this long-departed reformer is compelled to be one of the invisible throng who wait upon the lectures of Mrs. Stanton, Miss Anthony, and others of that ilk?  What repentings he must experience, what fearful self-reproach!  The very corner-stone of the system of Confucius was obedience to properly constituted authority.  The will of the parent was supreme; while life lasted, the child was subject to it, no matter what age was reached.  Then, by parity of reasoning, as was the father to the family, so was the emperor to the nation: the same obedience that was due from the son to the father was due from all the people to the emperor; he is their father, and they are his children.  In this submission, this habit of obedience, is the secret of the stability of the government, and the long continuance of the empire.</P>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Such are the people that come to the Pacific coast, and such are the formulas which have molded their characters, and by which they have been governed.  Obedience and fidelity are the two leading traits of the Chinaman at home.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"They touch our country, and--"<LB></HI>
126.sgm:<P>do their characters change?</P>
126.sgm:<P>R. W. Raymond, United States commissioner on mining statistics, etc., in an official report says: "The Chinese put but little faith in the promises of employers, and are apt to stop if not promptly paid.  They are the most reasonable in the matter of wages, and the most unreasonably exact, in the matter of payment, of all our laborers.  Chinese skilled miners are quite equal to those of any other race.  In some instances they surpass white men employed in the same mines.  The greatest superiority of good Chinese miners over European miners is their fidelity.  It is certainly true that they are far more earnest and faithful than any other miners.  In every department they enjoy the universal reputation of conscientious fidelity.  Apart from every other advantage or disadvantage attendant upon their employment, apart from the discrepancy of wages even, this one attribute of fidelity to the interests of the employer will certainly carry the day for the almond-eyed laborers, if our white workmen do not recognize the danger in which they stand, and avert it by more sensible means than they have yet used."</P>
126.sgm:<P>Upon this one point of fidelity to instructions the testimony among employers was quite uniform, no matter what differences of opinion there might be in regard to other matters.  The stories with which we have been entertained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>A pleasant-voiced, nice-looking Chinaman was employed as chambermaid (if the solecism may be permitted), in one of the beautiful homes in Oakland.  He belonged to quite a retinue of servants, a half-dozen or more, and was the only Asiatic.  The others were all Europeans, and trained for the particular department in which he or she was employed.  But it was the testimony of the lady of the house that none of the others at all equaled the almond-eyed chambermaid in the faithfulness and perfection of the service performed.  After once becoming familiar with the routine of his duties he needed no oversight or attention.  On the day that the drawing-room was to be swept and garnished he did it, and did it so perfectly that the most exacting requirement was fully met.  And so of the parlor, the library and the bed-chambers.  He was never idle, never absent, never forgetful.  Whoever else might be away from his post, he was always at his--"Faithful found among the faithless."</P>
126.sgm:<P>It was the testimony of the owner of a fruit ranch who had for a dozen years or more employed from six to fifteen Chinamen constantly, that he would not have any other laborers, for when he told a Chinaman to do a thing he knew that it would be done, and done exactly as he directed--an assurance that he would not feel in regard to any other laborers.</P>
126.sgm:<P>This characteristic of faithfulness extends to and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>A man who has lived more than twenty years in California, and had to do with Chinamen in almost every capacity, as laborers, as renters, as transactors of business generally, declared that he had never yet lost a dollar by a Chinaman.  When a Chinaman engaged to do a thing, or to pay a price, there need be no anxiety--he would surely do it.</P>
126.sgm:<P>That he is not a specialist and confined to one thing or kind of labor is proved by the fact that in a multitude of families a Chinaman is the factotum--the maid-of-all-work.  He bakes and broils, he sweeps and dusts, he washes and irons, and does the multitude of things required of a servant where but a single one is employed.  Although often serving as cook even in hotels, the evidence acquired on the subject is not sufficient to convince at least one observer that in this department John excels.  Only in a single case was there seen any proof of unusual tact or uncommon skill.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In the year 1870 it was estimated that one hundred and forty thousand Chinamen had come to the Pacific <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE YOSEMITE FALLS.  PAGES 214, 221 AND 222.</P>
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126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>There are six Chinese companies in San Francisco, each having its own organization, its own officers, and its own place of meeting.  These are in some sense mutual aid societies.  Chinamen can do as they please about joining them, but so great are the advantages of doing so that almost every one connects himself with one or another.  The initiation fee is from five to ten dollars.  There are some incidental expenses, so that the entire cost of membership for ten years is from fifty to one hundred dollars.  A member may dissolve his connection with the company to which he belongs at his pleasure.  In return for what the member pays, the company take care of him if sick, rescue him, if possible, when in danger, and feed him when he is out of employment.  No matter where he goes, or how far away, his company is still bound to care for him.  If he is oppressed or wronged in any way, and makes complaint, he must be looked after and his wrongs righted.  When a member wishes to return to China, a certain number of days before he expects to start he must report himself to the company to which he belongs and state his intention.  The books of the company are searched to see if he owes any man anything; notice is also sent to the other companies to learn if there is anything against him on their records, and he must have a clearance before he can leave the country.  It is the custom, therefore, if a Chinaman owes a debt, and there is any difficulty in collecting it, to send notice to the company of which he is a member, who see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The Chinese have many festivals and holidays; but it is extremely difficult to find out what day they celebrate, or why it is observed.  There are very few who understand English well enough to make explanations.  When asked about the nature of a holiday, the almost uniform answer is, "All the same as 'Melican man's Fourth of July."  Fourth of July seems to stand to them as a generic term for holiday.  But when their new year begins, there is no trouble in ascertaining what they are about, or why they eat and are merry.  This is the chief of their holidays, and is celebrated with much parade and rejoicing.  Their new year is a week in beginning, and sometimes extends over ten days.  Like Easter, it is a movable festival, and, also like Easter, its commencement depends upon a certain conjunction of the sun and moon.  The Chinese new year begins with the first new moon after the sun enters the sign of Aquarius, and may come at any time between the twenty-first of January and the eighteenth of February.  The beginning of the new year is a grand event, and is prepared for with great industry and parade.  Some of the customs connected with this season would bear transplanting, and would work no detriment to those who claim a higher style of civilization.  Business men over haul their books and close up all accounts; no debts can go over and stand upon the records of the new year.  Great effort is made among debtors to pay up; but if it is found to be impossible, the debt is cancelled and the debtor goes free.  But his credit is gone, and for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:future he is a dishonored man.  Nothing can wipe out his disgrace but the honorable payment of the debt after he is no longer liable for it.  Everything, also, is put into a state of perfect cleanliness.  Houses are scrubbed and put into the best possible order; all garments are made as clean and pure as soap and water, with a liberal expenditure of muscular power, can make them.  It is a time of suffering and death among pigs and poultry, for to these two orders of land animals Chinamen confine their attention.  They have much affection for fish, and freely indulge their taste for them.  All work is given up, and a general carnival prevails.  So far as outside show is concerned, the jollification consists mainly in the explosion of fire-crackers.  The authorities of San Francisco tried to confine this performance to a single day; but although there is more of it done on the first day than any time afterward, the practice is continued through the whole series of days.  The usual economy of the Chinese seems to be thrown to the winds on this festive occasion.  They go up into the verandahs and upper stories of their houses, and after igniting the crackers throw down bunch after bunch, which explode on the pavement below, and keep up such frequent detonations that the effect is like that of a constant discharge of artillery.  By the time night comes the pavement will be soft to the feet, from the abundance of the fragments of the exploded fire-crackers, and the feeling is like that of walking on feathers.  Men who do business to the amount of many thousands of dollars engage with apparent zest in this, to us, childish amusement.  Of course this fire-cracker <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The Chinese theatres are in full blast all through the holidays.  The doors are opened at seven o'clock in the morning, and the play begins soon after.  An intermission at noon gives time for dinner; after which the play is resumed, and with the exception of a couple of hours--from five to seven o'clock in the evening--it is continued until eleven.  It does not seem to be considered essential to hear the whole play; but the spectators come and go to suit their convenience, apparently well satisfied with the snatches they get in that way.  During these holidays the Chinese women are allowed the privilege of attending the theatre.  The gallery is reserved for them, where they sit entirely separate from the men.  They do not, however, take any part in the performance.  The roles which should be taken by women are assumed by men.  The dress is very gorgeous, and is said to be after the cut and fashion in use in China before the country was conquered by the present reigning sovereigns, the Mantchoo Tartars.  This conquest took place two hundred years ago, and at that time the people were compelled by the conquerors to assume their present costume, including the shaving of the head, except the part on the top, which furnishes the hair for the long cue, which they still so universally wear.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The Chinese have not advanced beyond the ruder stages of the "mimic art."  They borrow no aid from scenery, and have no division into acts and scenes.  When a play once begins, it keeps right on the far-off end.  There are no curtains, which involves the necessity of doing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>But of the appointments of a Chinese theatre, the music is what lingers longest in the memory.  The orchestra consists of a row of men, who sit on the stage back of the performers.  Each one is armed and equipped with the instrument that will make the greatest possible noise.  Gongs, cymbals, and many strange instruments with unknown names, but of wonderful capacity, make up the collection.  The efforts of the performers are never intermitted.  When the stage-actors wax warm, and show their excitement by increased loudness of tone and more exaggerated action, the sympathy of the musicians is exhibited by intensified effort; the gongs thunder, the cymbals reverberate, and all the instruments seem to do their best to outdo any Pandemonium of which the most imaginative ever dreamed.  If one can go to a Chinese theatre and not have his ears tingle for a week after, he must have put his nerves to sleep beforehand with some powerful anodyne.  Yet go by all means.  There is nothing in the Chinese quarter in San Francisco that pays so well.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The temples, also, are places much resorted to during these holidays.  Of these there are several in San Francisco, but one outshines all the others in the number of its gods and the grandeur of its appointments.  All are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The Chinese gods and goddesses were all once living persons who performed some worthy deed for which they have been deified.  In the main room of the temple there are three gods, life size, sitting behind an altar.  The central one is Joss, the supreme deity.  The one on his left is the god of war, the special patron of the Ning Yung company, one of the six companies already described.  His name is Rwau Tae.  He lived about sixteen hundred years ago, and his history shows that the Chinese have both the power to do and appreciate what is generous and noble.</P>
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126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Rwau Tae was a soldier and a commander in early life, and was almost always victorious when engaged in battle.  He was also kind and merciful, as well as brave, and conquered the hearts of his enemies by love and kindness after he had conquered them in war.  When the strife was over he resigned his command.  The Emperor was his personal friend, and importuned him to accept civil office, but Rwau Tae refused.  He joined the order of Devoted Brothers, whose business it was to tend the sick, to heal the wounded, and to succor the distressed.  In a few years a rebellion broke out in the empire, and like another Cincinnatus, Rwau Tae was called from his retirement to command the army of the empire and save the country.  He succeeded in suppressing the rebellion, the rebels were defeated, but the leader escaped and a large price was offered to any one who would bring him dead or alive to the Emperor.  All subjects were also forbidden to harbor or help him in any way.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Rwau Tae returned to the brotherhood and again devoted himself to works of mercy and charity.  One day there came to him a poor man, who was sick, wounded, ragged, and in need of all things.  Rwau Tae recognized in him the leader of the rebellion, but feeling that the claim of humanity was superior even to the command of the Emperor, he took him in and healed his wounds, relieved his distresses, and, when he had full recovered, sent him on his way with the means to supply his future wants.  Then he put his own affairs in order, arranged his property and estates, went and confessed his disobedience to the Emperor, gave himself up to suffer the penalty of the violated law, and was beheaded.  But while the Emperor would not suffer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The goddess of mercy is in another room in the temple above mentioned.  This image was brought from China three or four years ago, by Dr. Li-po-tai, at a cost of eight thousand dollars.  The story about her is this: She was a fine young woman, who, to escape a disagreeable marriage, left her father's home and took refuge in the house of a religious sisterhood.  Her father burned the buildings, but her prayers saved the occupants.  She has it for her benevolent mission in the other world to look after the souls of those who have no friends here, or who have friends that are unmindful and negligent.</P>
126.sgm:<P>This goddess is arrayed quite gorgeously, and has diamonds in her eyes for pupils, and a diamond in the center of her forehead.  She is very popular among the Chinese and has many supplications made before her.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In one corner of a remote room in the temple there stands the most cadaverous, woe-begone, forsaken-looking being that could possibly be imagined.  It is a man who has lost his soul!  He brought this calamity on himself by some misdoing in this life.  He is constantly in pursuit of this lost soul, and sometimes is just on the eve of grasping it when it eludes him, and he still goes on in the restless search.</P>
126.sgm:<P>There is no stated hour for worship in the temple.  The Chinamen come in at their pleasure or convenience, and go the rounds of the gods and goddesses, joining their hands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ALLEY IN CHINESE QUARTER, SAN FRANCISCO.  Page 192.</P>
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126.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
126.sgm:<P>A TRIP TO THE YOSEMITE.</P>
126.sgm:<P>THE Yosemite valley is in a straight line about one hundred fifty miles from San Francisco.  The direction is a little south of east; by any road that can be traveled the distance is about two hundred and fifty miles.  It is near the center of the State, taking it length-wise, and near the center of the Sierra Nevada range of mountains, taking it from east to west.  The range in this place is about seventy miles wide.</P>
126.sgm:<P>We, a party of nine, took our seats in the cars, at the end of the ferry across the bay from San Francisco, on the afternoon of a June day, when June days are longest.  Modisto was the terminus of the railroad, and we spent the night there, and took the stage at five o'clock the next morning.  We had our first look at the Tuolumne river just after starting.</P>
126.sgm:<P>All the morning our road was through the San Joaquin valley.  A more dreary, desolate, forsaken-looking region cannot well be conceived.  One of the most fertile and fruitful parts of the State when blessed with a plentiful supply of water, it now, in consequence of excessive drouth, seemed to have the very pith and marrow dried out of it.  When we came to Snelling, on the Merced, we looked eagerly at the river.  It was our first chance to see this "river of Mercy."  It was running along quite demurely on its way to find the San Joaquin, and seemed altogether <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>After passing through Bear Valley we entered upon the celebrated Mariposa tract and crossed it diagonally.  Everywhere there were signs of gold-digging, which makes sad havoc with a country, whether looked at from an &aelig;sthetic or agricultural point of view.</P>
126.sgm:<P>This Mariposa grant originally comprised seventy square miles, and at one time was said to make John C. Fremont the richest private citizen in the world.  The lawyers have probably reaped the greater part of the golden harvest it has produced.  Litigation in regard to it has been constant and continued for many years.</P>
126.sgm:<P>As the day wore on we had more interest in the way of scenery.  There were valleys with oaks and pines scattered here and there, and hills the sides of which were covered with <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
126.sgm:, or "devil's acres," as it is somewhat profanely called.  <HI REND="italics">Chaparral</HI>
126.sgm: is a generic term used somewhat in the sense of thicket.  A <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
126.sgm:<P>It was ten o'clock when we reached White and Hatch's.  Pleasant haven of rest!  The blessing of many a weary traveler has been bestowed upon this house, in consideration of the comfort and refreshment enjoyed within its walls.  How clean and cool everything looked!  Were there ever beds so restful!  It was worth while to be so tired in order to know the blessedness of repose so delightful.</P>
126.sgm:<P>In the morning we had a chance to appreciate the sylvan beauty of the place.  There was a hill near, on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>At eight o'clock in the morning we started for Clark's.  The trees on every side as we went our way were of grand size and proportions.  They quite cast into the shade those we had seen and admired the day before.  We continued to ascend until we were twenty-eight hundred feet above White and Hatch's, and more than a mile above the level of the sea.  We were certainly on the road to an apotheosis.  But we were not to take our seats among the gods yet.  After crossing the divide between the Chowchilla and the south fork of the Merced we began to descend, and before we reached Clark's had gone down seventeen hundred feet.  At Clark's we were on the same level with the Yosemite valley, four thousand feet above sea-level, and only twelve miles in a direct line from the goal of our hopes.  Had we the wings of a dove we could have flown there by making just that distance.  As we had not we were obliged to ride twenty-four miles, and go up and again down in order to reach the place.  The first ceremony at the end of each ride was to be swept down.  Somebody, broom in hand, was always in waiting to make free again the soil that had settled upon our garments.  Clark's is a very comfortable place, where pleasant rest may be enjoyed.  We stayed over a day here in order to visit the big-trees.</P>
126.sgm:<P>When the news of the wonderful big-trees of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GENERAL VIEW OF THE YOSEMITE.  PAGE 196.</P>
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126.sgm:California reached England, the botanists who investigated the matter decided that they were <HI REND="italics">sui generis</HI>
126.sgm: --not belonging to any known genus.  Therefore, without a very nice appreciation of the claims of the country that produced them, they bestowed upon them a name derived from that of the "Iron Duke"--Wellingtonia.  Subsequent examination proved them to be so like the already known redwood as to have a legal right to be included in the same genus.  The specific name <HI REND="italics">gigantea</HI>
126.sgm: was added, and the name stands <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
126.sgm:.  The age of these trees would seem sometimes to have been greatly overestimated.  One of the largest and apparently oldest in the Calaveras grove was cut down and the concentric layers counted, by which it was proved to be thirteen hundred years old.  The height is not so great as that of some of the eucalyptus trees in Australia, which often reach the altitude of four hundred feet, and one of which is reported to measure four hundred and eighty.  The tallest of the big-trees which has yet been measured in the Calaveras grove, the Keystone State, is only three hundred and twenty-five feet high.  But, taking height and thickness both into consideration, no tree has ever been known to equal the big-trees.  They are always found in groves, but they are not exclusive--they allow other species to grow among them.  Pines, spruce and cedars seem to feel no embarrassment at being found in the company of their betters, to which they in fact serve as a foil to set them off and show how much bigger they are than common trees.  The <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
126.sgm: has as yet always been found within two degrees of latitude thirty-six and thirty-eight north, and at an elevation of from six to seven thousand feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>So much in the way of preliminaries and elucidation of matters in general.  Through the greater we come to the less and reach the account of our own particular experiences and impressions.  After reaching Clark's we were to say good-bye to wheels and trust ourselves to the tender mercies of horses, holding the reins of government in our own hands, though in my case they proved to be rather the symbol of power than the real thing.  As soon as breakfast was over the horses were brought out, and we prepared to mount.  This was a trying time to me.  It was the one particular event that had been before me as a dread and an uncertainty ever since the journey was decided upon.  I had bespoken a gentle horse.  When my turn came to mount, a smooth brown mustang was brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:up and formally introduced as "Alek."  He belonged to that class of sovereigns for whom one name is sufficient.  In a few minutes the impossible was accomplished; I was fairly mounted.  Whether I could maintain the eminent position assumed was the problem which the future was to solve.  By holding on to the "horn" with an intensity that knew no relaxation I remained seated when Alek started, and we at once took the place which henceforth knew us in all our journeyings,--in the rear.  Alek was determined to let his moderation be known, and we were in danger of either retarding the progress of some gentlemen benevolently inclined, or being left quite to ourselves in the background.  I could not spare enough energy from the continued effort to "hold on" to give him any persuasive touches of the whip, and he seemed intuitively to divine the true state of the case.  It was a rarely beautiful morning; the sun was clear and bright, and would have been too warm had we not been shaded by the trees that overhung the trail.  We were above all fogs and miasmas, and breathed a most exhilarating atmosphere, which of itself would have sent hope and delight tingling through the veins.  Our way led us up higher and higher until we were more than a mile above the level of the sea, and then we found the Big Trees!  We entered the upper grove, and on the west side.  Our first halt was made when we reached the Prostrate Monarch.  The first feeling upon seeing the trees was that of disappointment; but when we had clambered up the side of this prostrate monarch and found ourselves standing thirty feet in the air, higher than the eaves of most two-story houses, while the tree lay flat upon the ground, we began to think that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:the Titans had left their representatives behind them, and that the trees had not been overestimated.  The bark is tan color, and from fifteen to twenty inches in thickness.  It is of a loose, spongy texture, and when cut transversely is used sometimes for pin-cushions.  There was pain always mingled with wonder and pleasure in looking at these monsters, for not one of them all is perfect.  The fire has scathed them and more or less injured their appearance.  This was done before the groves were known to white men.  The Indians were accustomed to kindle fires in order to burn the underbrush, and so facilitate their hunting operations.  It is a sad pity that they are so marred.  We found a spring at the very roots of one of the largest trees, and the water was deliciously cool and refreshing.  We spread our lunch near by, and ate under the shadow and protection of one of these great kings of the forest.  Like most of the coniferous trees on the Pacific coast, the big-tree sends out no branches for a great distance from the ground--sometimes one hundred feet or more.  The tops of many of them were broken off, showing that decay had already begun.  There was something almost fearful in the stillness that reigned in the grove.  No note of bird or hum of insect was heard.  The silence was as profound as that when the primeval earth, all dressed in beauty and arrayed in glory, waited in silent expectancy the coming of its lord--the creation of man!  Our guide was a backwoodsman, accustomed to roaming the forests and camping out for weeks in the wilderness; but he said he would rather stay alone through the night anywhere he had ever been than in one of these groves.  There was something awful in the solitude.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PLAN OF THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.  PAGE 215.</P>
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126.sgm:<P>After lunch we mounted our horses and started for the other grove.  On our way we rode from end to end through the trunk of a tree, that had been burned out and was lying on the ground.  Through another, that was standing and had also been burned out, we rode in regular procession.  The Grizzly Giant outranks all others in the grove in magnificent proportions.  It is ninety-three feet seven inches in circumference, and sends out a branch ninety feet from the ground that is six feet in diameter.  This tree is, like the rest, much injured by fire.  There were ten of us in the company.  We arranged ourselves around the Grizzly Giant, sitting on our horses and bringing them head and tail together as closely as we could, and thus we reached about half way round the tree.  The Queen of the Forest is less injured by fire than most of the other trees, and is great and grand enough to deserve the name it bears.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The trees seemed to grow in size every hour that we spent in looking at them.  The first disappointment soon gave place to wonder that increased constantly.  Before we came away, they by their actual presence surpassed all expectation or imagination.  There are no words that can worthily describe them; for before they came in view there was a want of language to express the feelings of awe, of wonder, of might and majesty that were awakened.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The wood is of a color like our eastern cedar, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The sun had gone far on its way toward the west when we set out on our return.  What a day it had been!  What new sensations had been awakened!  What surprise, what wonder, what admiration!  A new element had come into our lives, to be separated from them again nevermore.  Here we first saw the wonderful snow-plant.  This beautiful thing does not derive its name from its color, for that is in strong contrast to white, but from the fact that it pushes its way up through the snow, as though that was its native element.  The whole plant is a bright red--not flame color, not blood color, but sometimes one and sometimes both.  It is veined and shaded in its hue; it grows from eight to twelve inches high, and, like the goddess who burst upon the world full-armed, it comes up out of the ground equipped and perfect.  The growing seems to be all done in the secret places of the earth, before it exposes itself to view.  First the head or top pushes up and presents itself; then it keeps on rising, rising, till it stands up erect, a full-grown plant.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:little florets are arranged around the stalk like the flowers on mullein.  When it first appears above the ground there is a long, narrow leaf, which is also red, wrapped carefully around each floret, to protect it while pushing its way up into the free air.  This official duty done, the leaf twists itself about the stalk so as not to obscure the beauty of the flower and let it have a fair chance to be seen.  This was the most curious plant that we saw during our trip.  It seemed to grow abundantly all around the valley of the Yosemite, but we found none in it.  At Peregoy's a dozen could be found under a single pine tree.  The botanical name of the plant is <HI REND="italics">Sarcodes sanguinea</HI>
126.sgm:<P>At eight o'clock the next morning we again mounted our horses.  A ride of twenty-five miles would bring us to the Yosemite.  Mentally, I was in a better condition than at starting on the previous day; because of the facility with which the mind becomes accustomed to danger, I could trust myself in my perilous position on the back of the horse with diminished trepidation and alarm.  But physically!  Ah, well! what boots it to tell of the wounds and bruises?  Alek seemed by this time to have clear and settled convictions in regard to his rider.  That I had not much will of my own was self-evident to him, and that I did not dare assert what little I had in the face of opposition was equally apparent.  These first impressions were not effaced throughout all the ten days that we afterward journeyed together.  Another conviction was equally well fastened upon Alek's mind.  He was conscious of having the advantage on the score of that practical knowledge which was necessary for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>We--that is, Alek and I--always guarded the rear of the party, to see that no evil came upon them from behind.  It is only another proof that good deeds are not always recognized and rewarded, that our services in this respect were not appreciated, or, if they were, it was with the silent thankfulness with which the earth receives rain from the clouds.  There was nothing said about it!</P>
126.sgm:<P>There was no great exuberance of spirit in starting, such as there had been the day before.  The damaging effects of the fifteen miles' ride of the previous day were rather sedative in their influence, at least so far as the spirits were concerned.  We crossed the south fork of the Merced just after leaving Clark's.  It is quite a respectable little river there.  Then we took our winding way up the hill.  Our party had gained three by accretion, so that with our guide and pack-mule we made quite a cavalcade.  This pack-mule was a real character in his way, and deserves from a veracious historian more particular mention.  He was a dumpy little fellow, compactly built and well put together.  His strength must have been great in proportion to his size, for on his diminutive body was packed all the luggage that belonged to our party of twelve.  To be sure, there were no Saratoga trunks, but there were in the company four ladies fully equipped for a trip of ten days.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The name of this enterprising mule was "Jocko."  How he would grunt as bag after bag, satchel after satchel, was brought out and placed upon his back!  The girth was with each parcel drawn more and more tightly.  Such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>On one occasion during the journey he chanced to be about midway in the procession.  There was a narrow place in the trail, with large rocks on each side, through which those that were before Jocko passed without trouble.  When he came to the narrow pass he made up his mind that there was not sufficient room for him, with his pack extending on each side like very substantial wings.  So he stopped, and, putting on a most determined look, said, as plainly as he could, "You'll not get me through there till you have taken my pack off."  He did not mean to jeopardize what was intrusted to him.  Like all noble natures, he felt bound to be faithful to a trust.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>On we went in single file, winding our way up the hill--up--up.  Still up our way led us, till we were on the divide between the South Fork and the main Merced river, seven thousand feet above the level of the sea.  There we found only the tamarack and the noble fir, which grow nearer to heaven than any other trees.  We had our pay as we went along for the fatigue we endured.  What we saw and heard by the way would have been sufficient compensation had there been nothing beyond.  We looked out over an apparently endless range of mountains.  They stretched away off as far as the eye could reach, and the air was so clear and pure that the view seemed almost boundless.  Range upon range, mountain upon mountain, rose up to point the thoughts heavenward, and everywhere they were covered with trees whose majesty and magnificence made the sight rarely beautiful.  The sighing of the wind in the tops of the pine trees was something that affected me strangely.  It stirred up all there was within me that was good and gracious, and made me wish to fall further and further in the rear, so as to be all alone, with "God o'erhead."  I should never weary of this "harp of a thousand strings," played by an unseen hand, that knows so well how to touch it.  Oftentimes there was a sort of refrain.  The tune would be started on one hill-top, and the sound would spread and deepen and widen until all the trees on all the mountains joined in the chorus, and there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The mountain-air, riding and the strangeness of the conditions wake up the servants of digestion and make them very clamorous.  All sluggishness is gone.  The office of food is magnified.  Eating is an important fact.  This is understood and provided for at Peregoy's.  There is no style, there are no printed bills of fare or change of cloth at dinner, but everything is good and enjoyable.  There never were such steaks and such mutton-chops; and as for the cream pies and wonderful cakes, they would be fit company for the nectar of the gods at the feasts in Olympus.  The name of Peregoy lingers pleasantly in the ears of travelers.  May the genius that presides over that kitchen feel the richness that comes from being blessed by thousands, who are made stronger and happier by the ministrations of her hands!</P>
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126.sgm:<P>The air is so pure at this point, and so free from any corrupting influences, that meat can be kept ten or twelve days without any application of salt.  But there was no chance to try any such experiment while we were there; we helped put all provisions beyond a peradventure as to their future.  It was the original intention of our party to go no further than Peregoy's the day we left Clark's.  But after dinner and a rest of three hours we were so much refreshed that there was a unanimous vote to go on and get into the valley the same night, and be there ready to celebrate our national birthday on the morrow.  So we started on quite cheerfully and courageously.  We had twelve miles before us, and to those of us who were unaccustomed to the saddle it was a large addition to make to the twelve already traveled.  We went on still ascending till we were seven thousand four hundred feet above the ocean, more than three thousand above Clark's.  In many places the trail led up the mountain as nearly perpendicularly as earth would stay; then it was rocky and rough, which seemed to add to the danger as well as the toilsomeness of the ascent.  Something was gained by making the trail zig-zag, like a Virginia fence.  I was interested in watching Alek, and seeing how thorough was his knowledge of the laws of gravitation and equipoise.</P>
126.sgm:<P>He would go to the very farthest verge of the angle, so that his head and almost his entire body sometimes would project beyond the path; then, making a fulcrum of his hind legs, he would turn himself with gravity and deliberation, go on to the next angle, and so repeat the process.  At first, not having learned to confide entirely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:in his wisdom and judgment, I pulled the rein to prevent his going out of the track, as I thought he intended.  He never paid the slightest attention to my efforts, and I soon concluded it was better to content myself with being a shadow behind the throne and give up all power and authority to him, devoting myself with a single eye to the one business of keeping myself on his back.  To this determination I adhered ever after.  The appearance of the party was often very picturesque, viewed from the rear, which was always my standpoint of observation.  The whole party wound their way up the hill one after another, some on one level and others on a higher, the different hues of the costumes distinguishing each from the other as they were now lost to sight and then appearing again, like the pieces in a kaleidoscope.  The zig-zag of the trail increased the effect and strengthened the appeal to the imagination, making it easy to set one's self back in the stream of time to an era which antedates the birth of railroads and coaches, when brave knights went to the rescue of fair ladies, on gallant steeds, with spear and breastplate.  Sometimes a song would be started, and one after another would join in until the chorus was swelled by the voices of all the company.  The tones lingered in the valleys and were echoed by the hills, until Nature herself took up the refrain and seemed to complete the harmony.  Brave little Jocko usually took precedence, as though the superior value of his cargo entitled him to that distinction.  So we went on, rather flagging as the day advanced, till we came to Inspiration Point, where we were to have our first view of the remarkable place we had come so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>But the sun was nearing the western horizon.  We could not satisfy ourselves with looking, for we were yet six miles from our place of rest.  Not six ordinary miles.  One would have very little idea of distance in and about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>We began the descent of the mountain after leaving Inspiration Point.  We had been climbing up nearly all the way from Clark's only to be obliged to descend again.  The grade from the top of the mountain down into the valley was much steeper than any we had previously had.  It did not seem possible for the rider to keep the center of gravity within the compass of the horse's ears.  There was constant expectation of being required to describe a tangent or a parabola in falling over his head.  These mustangs are wonderfully wise and skillful in their day and generation, and possess remarkable presence of mind into the bargain.  Others might be thrown off their balance, but not they.  They always know exactly where to put their feet and how to carry not only themselves but their riders.  The sun had disappeared from the heavens and the moon taken its place when we reached the foot of the mountain and entered the valley; so we had our first near view under the witchery of moonlight.  But alas for poetic phantasy!  I was so tired that all power of emotion was gone.  As soon as we reached the hotel I deposited myself upon the bed, supperless, and suffering in every joint and limb.  Did ever sinews so ache or muscles feel such soreness?  The very bones seemed to have found a way to make their grievances felt.</P>
126.sgm:<P>We had some celestial pyrotechnics and a nice shower in the morning in celebration of Independence Day.  Some of our company joined in the services and contributed a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:patriotic song or two.  We attempted no going abroad during the morning, but sat in the front porch and rested and watched the Yosemite fall, which seemed to be exactly opposite, as it does everywhere within half a mile above or below.  We were too late in the season to see the fall at its best.  The Yosemite creek, which forms it, rises in the Mount Hoffman group of mountains, about ten miles north of the valley.  Being fed by snows, it does not retain its fullness long after this has done melting; but the great height of the fall makes it wonderful, even when the volume of water is not great.  The whole descent is twenty-six hundred feet, but it is not all made at one leap.  The water falls over a granite precipice sixteen hundred feet, where it meets a projecting ledge; then for six hundred feet, or what is equivalent to that in perpendicular descent, it falls in a series of cascades, and finally gathers itself up and makes its last plunge of four hundred feet.  This, so far as is known, is the highest fall in the world, and is sixteen times the height of Niagara.  It was very strange and curious to see the way the wind toyed with it.  It was the uppermost sheet with which it seemed to like best to play.  Sometimes the water was spread out, stretched from edge to edge, as if to see how wide it could be made; then it was brought close together, and looked like a film or mist--a something altogether supernatural.  At times it was separated in the middle, and the divided parts hung down, with quite a space between, and danced hither and thither, one part chasing the other; sometimes coming almost together, and then separating again, as though a hand held each fast at the top, with the intention of showing it off, like a merchant displaying his goods to a customer.  Then again the water <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>for the sake of clearness I will begin the description of the valley at the western extremity, where it is entered by the different trails.  The valley lies nearly east and west, opening toward the west.  The Coulterville trail comes in on the north side and the Mariposa on the south side of the valley and of the Merced river.  This is the narrowest part of the valley, it being scarcely a half-mile wide, while the rocks on each side are more than that in height.  In some places there is scarcely room for the narrow trail between the river and the mountains.  Entering on the Mariposa trail, the first object that arrests and fixes the attention is "El Capitan."  This is an immense mass of granite, more than half a mile high, which makes a sharply-cut, almost rectangular, corner at the beginning of the valley on the north side.  No words can give any adequate idea of its majesty as it stands there, a solid cliff of stone, with its top three thousand four hundred feet above the valley.  The front face is not quite perpendicular, as the top projects over the base about one hundred feet.  We, standing at its foot and looking up to its summit, seemed the least of all little things.  I felt like bowing down to the earth and saying, with hushed voice:  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent">"Great God! how infinite art Thou,<LB>What worthless worms are we."<LB></HI>
126.sgm:<P>The granite is a light gray--lighter than the Quincy granite.  The great face of the rock is bare, except that some trees were growing on two or three ledges at different heights.  Seen from the valley, they were very diminutive, but are really good-sized pines.  Near the corner of El Capitan there is a recess where the Virgin Tears fall is seen earlier in the season, but it was dry when we visited it.  On the side of the rock facing southward and toward the valley there is drawn or cut the distinct outline of a man lying in a recumbent position.  Some of our party having eyes saw not this image and superscription, but to the greater number it was a plain and real thing.  Subsequently we learned whose these form and lineaments were, and why they were graven upon the rock.  To assist in keeping the memory of Tu-tock-a-nu-lah in perpetual remembrance, I shall rehearse the legend, abbreviating the story as I find it in print:</P>
126.sgm:<P>This majestic rock was the throne of Tu-tock-a-nu-lah, who was a fit man for such a seat.  Here he reclined while he administered laws to his people.  Just and upright in all his ways, he allowed no oppression among his subjects.  He was also strong and brave.  No foot was so fleet as his; no arrow so true to its mark as the one sent from his bow.  He could overtake the swift-footed deer in the chase, and his arrow found the heart of the bird in its flight.  Even the grizzly bear was conquered by his strength, and forced to yield to its victor.  Tu-tock-a-nu-lah lived so near to the Great Spirit, and was so loved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:by him, that at his intercession rain was given to nourish the earth; the sunshine came to brighten the flowers and make the trees raise their heads every day nearer to heaven.  So his whole care was for his people, and they were blessed under his reign.  He was to them as a benefactor and God.  But to this mighty man there came a change.  Stout as his heart was, there was in it a spot of tenderness.  On morning, as he chased the deer from its cover, a vision appeared to his eyes--a maiden, fair as the morn, glorious as the sun and beautiful as the evening cloud, sat on the top of Tissayac, the Half Dome.  Her hair was flaxen, with the tinge of gold upon it.  She was not dark and swarthy, like the maidens among his people, but her face was like the white lily, with the blush of the rose upon her cheeks; her eye was the deep blue of the sky, and changeable as the clouds at evening--now deep, then pale it grew, as she looked down upon him from her high seat, four thousand feet above.  To see her was to love her.  He knelt down before her, as if to worship, and stretched his hand upward to entreat her favor.  Love and pity were in her eyes as she regarded him.  Then she spoke low, in a voice as sweet as the voices of the morning, and called his name twice: "Tu-tock-a-nu-lah! Tu-tock-a-nu-lah!" and was gone.  To him the sun seemed to go out when she disappeared.  After that he had but one thought, one care--to seek the lost Tissayac, his vanished love.  Morning and night he sought her, and at noon he gave not up his quest.  He forgot his people.  He ceased to care for their interests.  He no longer offered prayer and sacrifice to the Great Spirit.  Offended at this neglect, the Great Spirit failed to send the rain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>This Half-Dome is still a marvel in the eyes of the people.  The snows were melted in the valley, and the water came pouring down its sides.  They formed a river--the river of Mercy,--which has ever since continued to flow through the valley.  Then Tissayac took her flight, and was seen no more.  But as she flew over the lake which bears her name the down from her wings dropped along the shore, and there sprang up white violets to gladden the hearts of all that should ever visit the lake.  Tu-tock-a-nu-lah could not exist without Tissayac.  He followed her from the valley, and was never seen again.  But before he went, with his hunting-knife he cut in the rock whereon his throne had been, the outlines of his noble head and manly form,--not standing erect, as in the pride of strength, but almost prostrate, to show that even he had succumbed to a power mightier than himself; and he left the picture there, that all men might see and know that how brave and how swift soever they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SENTINELS, CALAVERAS GROVE.  (EACH OVER 300 FEET HIGH.)  PAGE 199.</P>
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126.sgm:may be, there is a very little archer who can conquer them by one dart from his quiver, and then--a woman may lead them!  It is a pity that this fine Indian name, Tu-tock-a-nu-lah, which belonged to the rock, should have given place to the comparatively vulgar one of El Capitan, which is simply the Spanish for "The Captain."  This wonderful mass of solid granite is nearly two-thirds of a mile high.  It is the beginning of the wall of the valley on the north or left-hand side as you enter.  On the opposite or right-hand side are the Cathedral rocks, and The Three Graces.  Over the face of Cathedral Rock pours Bridal Veil creek, which rises a few miles southeast of this, and was an insignificant stream where we crossed it afterward, when going to Glacier Point.  But the fall shows what grand results may be brought about by insignificant instrumentalities, when taken in hand by the Great Artificer.  This little stream is led along by the hand till brought to the verge of this rock nine hundred feet above the valley; and then, in tossing it over, it is made such a thing of beauty as rarely blesses the eyes of mortal man.  The water is no longer water; it is spiritualized, glorified; it comes over the shelving rock, white, ethereal as the mists of the morning, lighted up, irradiated by the rainbows that dance hither and thither, up and down, like myriads of iris-winged fairies.  Of all the beautiful and unique things in Yosemite, to my eyes there was nothing so beautiful as the Bridal Veil fall.  The falls of the Yosemite are more stupendous, the Vernal grander, and the Nevada more majestic and over-awing; but for the purely beautiful, that which soothes and sweetens and enchants the soul, there is nothing like the Bridal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Turning an obtuse angle from the rock over which falls the Bridal Veil creek, we face the Cathedral rocks, not so high as El Capitan, nor so grand.  They are enough like a cathedral to justify the name, especially when seen in connection with some rocks called Cathedral spires.  These have different aspects, according to the points from which they are viewed.  Sometimes they seem to be connected with Cathedral Rock, and really form the spires to that grand <HI REND="italics">simulacrum</HI>
126.sgm:<P>Passing up the valley on the north side, beyond El Capitan, there are The Three Brothers.  There is no danger that these brothers will not dwell together in unity; they are bound together by a bond which they cannot break, and which renders discord impossible.  They are not all of the same size, though, so far as has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>On the opposite or south side, on the right hand, we next come to Sentinel Rock.  I shall never forget how I felt when I first saw this cliff.  It was dark when we reached the hotel, and in the morning, when I stepped out on the verandah, this was the first thing that met my view.  It looked like a part of the everlasting hills that had been and was to be forever.  It stood there, a grand mass of rock, stretching away up almost as far as the eye could reach, and then on the top was a slender obelisk still rising heavenward.  It would seem as though a sentinel on the top of that rock could see into the very gates of heaven.  "Wonderful! wonderful! wonderful!"  I said, over and over again to myself.  I could find no other word; there was room for no other feeling.</P>
126.sgm:<P>At Black's hotel we seemed to be exactly under the shadow of this great rock.  The center appeared to be directly over us, and so it did for half a mile going up or down the valley.  I noticed the same fact in regard to Yosemite fall.  For a mile we seemed to be exactly under them.  I suppose it was the effect of the exceeding great height.  They were lifted so far above us that they seemed to be just in front for a long time.  At Black's we were about midway in the valley; there being three miles above and three below.  Behind the hotel Sentinel Rock raises its high head, as though it would penetrate the heavens.  In front are the Yosemite falls.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>The view from the top is said to be very fine, and I can well believe it.  Crossing the river again on a bridge, we came to a saw-mill which is turned by the Yosemite creek, which, after making a water-fall that astonishes the nations, and surpasses all others in the world in height,--a water-fall which fills the eye of the beholder with wonder and the heart with delight,--is not above the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Two or three miles above Hutching's the valley loses its regularity.  What had been a unit becomes triune.  There are three narrow valleys instead of one.  The river Merced runs through the middle valley.  The Tenaya fork of the Merced finds its way through the northern valley, and the Illoulette through the southern.  The North Dome is in the northern valley.  It is an exceedingly high point, which is, as its name indicates, dome-shaped.  The Half-Dome, on the other side of this narrow can&tilde;on, is the all-pervading presence of the Yosemite valley.  Go where you will, look at the valley from what point you may, this wonderful Half-Dome is always visible, always grand and imposing.  It is the highest point in the walls of the valley, outranking El Capitan by six or seven hundred feet.  Its top has never been trodden by the foot of man.  Since Tissayac forsook it, it has remained solitary in its grandeur.  Nature has reserved one place at least for a shrine, which man's profane feet have been unable to penetrate.  On the side toward the Tenaya can&tilde;on it is exactly vertical for two thousand feet from the summit.  It has the appearance of having been a perfectly rounded and complete dome, which by some strange convulsion has been split in two and one part lost.  It has an appealing look, and can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Going on up the north can&tilde;on, through which the Tenaya fork runs, we came to Mirror lake, which is merely an expansion of the creek.  This little lake is remarkable only for the perfect shadows of the wonderful mountains and hills which surround it.  All these are reflected with great faithfulness.  You look from the original to the picture, and scarcely know which is which.  But there is no merit in this; any other water would do just the same thing, if it had the same thing to do.  The remarkableness was in the originals, not in the drawing.  However, our opportunity for seeing it was not of the best.  We neither saw it at the charmed hours of sunrise or sunset, which are said to be the times when it is finest.  In fact we did not see it when the sun was over it, for the sun was out of sorts that afternoon, and did not show his face at all.  Although we had a maiden in our party with brow as fair and cheek as rosy, eye as blue and hair as auburn as the fabled Tissayac, even she had not power to make the sun come from behind the clouds and show us the light of his countenance.  So our party pretty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>Mirror Lake was the terminus of our explorations up the Tenaya can&tilde;on.  We returned to our hotel, riding half the way through fields of fern that grew to the astonishing height of eight or ten feet.  We gathered some very pretty flowers as we rode along, and brought them away as trophies.  We returned to the hotel and resumed the pleasant task of watching the Yosemite fall.  We could never tire of looking at it any more than the wind could tire of playing with it.  One of the strange things about this fall is its vibratory motion.  There is so much water that it does not break up into spray, but, while it is scarcely forty feet wide when it pours over the rock, it widens out to three hundred when it alights upon the projecting ledge which makes the base of the first fall, and this great mass of water swings back and forth from east to west, through a space of a thousand feet in width.  As the water falls over, there are masses that whirl around like rockets as they descend.  This is thought to be owing to the air that is caught and mixed up with the water.  The Indians called this fall Yosemite, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P>At ten o'clock in the morning we started for Snow's, at the upper end of the valley.  Until a short time before our visit there was no way of egress from the valley but to return and pass out at the western extremity.  But a trail had recently been made by which there can be an exit from the upper end of the valley.  As we intended to go out that way, we had to take a last look at all this part through which we had been.  We passed Glacier Point on our right.  This rock is the angle formed by the south can&tilde;on entering the main valley, and from its summit there is the finest view to be had from any point.  We kept the middle can&tilde;on, through which flows the Merced river.  The recollection of no part of the trip gives me so little satisfaction as this ride up the valley.  The scenery was so wild, so wonderful, and in some places so grand, that I would have liked to give a day to each mile, instead of hurrying through and seeing the whole in a few hours.  But as we rode Indian file, and there were twelve of us, with the guide thrown in to make up the baker's dozen, no one could stop without deranging the whole procession, and there was nothing to be done but to go on and try to be satisfied with glimpses when we longed for lingering looks.</P>
126.sgm:<P>There is no sort of a performance that this Merced river is not capable of.  Now it goes along gravely, like a respectable, well-behaved river; then it makes a leap of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A MONSTER.  PAGES 201, 202 AND 203.</P>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Whatever of wildness one can imagine, whatever of picturesqueness the fancy can paint, whatever of grotesqueness the thought can conceive--all can be seen in or along this river.  These antics of the stream were not performed in silence, but were all set to music.  Sometimes the rush and roar made a noise almost deafening; then, with the nicest diminuendo, it changed to a pleasant humming that soothed while it pleased.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Personal matters claimed a part of our attention and sometimes absorbed our interest.  The trail led over rocks, and through rocks, and between rocks.  We had to scale almost perpendicular heights and go down into apparently unfathomable depths.  Any grades that we had had before seemed easy in comparison.  The beautiful azalea that ornaments so many places in the valley was not wanting here.  It grows larger, is more graceful, and the blending of pink and white in its flowers more beautiful, than anywhere else.  Its beauty seemed to soften the general roughness of the scene.  We reached at length Register Rock, where we dismounted.  Near by is Lady Franklin's Rock, from which, looking upward, there is a good view of Vernal fall.  Our guide told us that Lady Franklin came here and sat many hours in a seat which is still called by her name.  From here we could have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>After eating a dinner prepared by the hands of the enterprising Vermonter who presides over the "La Casa Nevada hotel," we started out to see the falls.  We were between them at Snow's.  The Nevada fall is half a mile above; the Vernal a little more than that below.  We made our first visit to the latter, walking by the side of the Merced river all the way.  In two miles, measuring from the top of the Nevada falls, the Merced descends two thousand feet; so that, after subtracting seven hundred feet for the Nevada fall and three hundred and fifty for the Vernal, there are still nearly a thousand feet left to be divided among lesser falls, cataracts and cascades.  Many of these would be remarkable if they were not eclipsed by the greater wonders in the vicinity.  Before reaching the cliff, the plunge over which makes the Vernal fall, the Merced gathers itself up into half its usual width, by way of preparation for the great leap that is before it.  Then spreading out again just as it reaches the cliff, so as to make the most of itself, with all the power and impetus it has accumulated, it plunges over.  The ledge over which it falls meets the northern wall of the valley at right angles, and, as if to furnish every convenience for seeing the wonderful fall, a parapet of granite breast high is placed on the south side.  It projects over the fall, so that one can stand in perfect safety and look into the very face of the descending water.  On the south side a staircase leads <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:down to the bottom of the fall.  The descent is safe, and when down one can see into the very secrets of the waterfall.  There is a grotto here, in which ferns and the delicate maiden-hair grow in luxuriance.  The sun never shines in there; but what do they care for that?  They are fed constantly on spray from the fall, and now and then a rainbow is served them by way of dessert; and their diet seems to agree with them.  A softer and more beautiful green never was seen than that which they exhibit.  One needs to gather one's senses about him when down in this chasm.  The roar of the fall is deafening.  The spray is everywhere.  It fills your eyes and mouth, it creeps in at your ears, and it rests upon your face.  The mists are about you like wreaths of smoke; you can hardly see through them.  Feelings of awe, almost of dread, creep over you at this wonderful manifestation of power.  But we were unfortunate in one thing--the sun refused to shine; so we did not see the rainbows.  I shall, therefore, borrow the description given by a friend, who was there at a more propitious time: "We pass down an easy flight of stairs, which have recently taken the place of a rickety ladder, and reaching the landing, we pause to look up and around us.  We find ourselves in a beautiful grotto, formed by a huge overhanging boulder, known as Arch Rock.  This spot has never known the sunlight but by reflection.  From every crevice and cranny droop the most exquisite bunches of ferns, among which is the delicate maiden's hair.  The rocks are covered with patches of bright enameled moss, and the whole is kept constantly bathed in spray from the fall.  As we pursue our way carefully down the uneven path, among rocks slippery with moist <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Loth to leave, yet compelled to go, we retraced our steps back to Snow's, and from there went to the Nevada falls.  The ledge over which the Merced river falls here reaches entirely across the can&tilde;on, meeting its two sides at right angles.  The fall does not cover the whole width of the cliff, although it is one hundred and thirty feet wide.  On the north side there is room for a trail, over which we afterward went as we passed out of the valley.  The Nevada fall is twice the height of the Vernal, and is the grandest of all the falls in the valley.  The Yosemite is higher, the Bridal Veil more ethereally beautiful; but in this height and volume unite to make grandeur that astonishes and sublimity that overwhelms the mind.  It will be remembered that both the Yosemite and Bridal Veil falls are made by comparatively insignificant creeks that come over the walls of the valley.  It is only in the Vernal and Nevada falls that we see what the Merced river itself can do when it takes it into its head to make a leap.  There is an obstruction on the north side of the fall which causes a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<illus entity="a126-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NEVADA FALLS.  (700 FEET HIGH.)  PAGE 230.</P>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>This was the end of our sight-seeing in the valley; but there remained some outside wonders for us to visit.  After being very compactly stowed away in our inn during the night, we were up with the sun, to be ready for an early start to Cloud's Rest.  This is a point but newly opened to tourists.  The trail had been finished but a short time, and only three or four parties had gone there before us.  Now came the hardest climb of all; we were obliged to go up the almost perpendicular ascent of the cliff to the north of the Nevada falls.  We thought we had seen steepness before, but this quite cast in the shadow everything else.  It seemed to go straight up, and we felt as if we had been ordered to charge upon a fortress that had been founded and built for the express purpose of keeping out all invaders.  But nothing in the way of climbing was impossible to Alek and his compeers.  If the Titans had had these mustangs to mount and carry them upwards, there is no knowing how far they would have gone in their attempt to scale the heavens.  Up, up they went, with their heads almost at right angles with the earth, always finding some sure place in which to put their feet.</P>
126.sgm:<P>I gave myself no concern about my horse.  I let him have the entire responsibility of keeping in the path of rectitude, and gave myself again wholly to the task of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:trying to keep on his back.  Before long this effort became too wearisome to be endured.  I dismounted, threw the bridle over his neck and let him go.  Walking was easier, and I had more chance to look about me.  The Nevada falls were in full view on the right nearly all the time.  On the left hand a grand mass of granite, isolated and apparently perpendicular on all sides, reared its majestic head more than two thousand feet above its base.  This is the Cap of Liberty, called also Mount Broderick.  Inaccessible as it looks, it is not altogether so.  Persons with stout hearts and strong sinews have climbed to the top.  On the south Mount Starr King makes a splendid monument to one whom all California loved, and whose untimely death is still lamented.  After fairly reaching the top of the ledge the trail presented no uncommon difficulties.  Cloud's Rest is the highest of the points attainable to the tourist in or around the Yosemite valley, being ten thousand feet above the level of the sea, and four thousand above the valley.  Think of it--nearly two miles straight up in the air above the daily life of common mortals!  There is no difficulty in the ascent except that the attenuated atmosphere makes breathing laborious.  The view was fine as well as extended.  On one side we looked down into the Yosemite valley, which lay spread out like a map below us.  There seemed a strange influence over and around us.  The canopy above us did not wear its usual look, but was of a deeper blue and grander aspect.  We felt that we were nearer heaven than we had ever been before.  But the time of our transfiguration had not yet come; we must return to sublunary things.  We mounted our horses and set out on our return, retracing the steps we had taken in going.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>We found our mule Jocko and the lunch all safe and waiting for us on the bank of the Merced river, just above Nevada falls.  It was then one o'clock, and we had been riding since six in the morning.  Of course lunch was a matter in which we felt a lively interest.  The company assembled and seated themselves on the grass under the shade of overhanging trees, with the murmur of the flowing river sounding in our ears.  The lunch was opened.  Blank astonishment and indignant surprise took the place of pleasant expectation.  Truly, our thrifty Vermonter at La Casa Nevada, like Mrs. Gilpin, had a "prudent mind."  The lunch, which had been paid for "sight unseen" was both meagre and poor, and caused the only burst of indignation shown by our good-natured party during the whole expedition.  But anger was useless and resentment was vain; neither would multiply our loaves or butter our bread.  So after sitting on the bank of the river for a while, watching the river get ready for its great plunge just below, we mounted again and started for Peregoy's.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The sun had found its rest before we reached ours.  Supper was soon ready, with its toothsome viands.  The cream pies that had haunted the memory of some of our party all the time we had been gone, were not wanting.</P>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>The next day was Saturday, and in the morning we went to Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome, which gave us a ride of twelve miles.  On our way we crossed Bridal Veil creek only half a mile above the fall.  Even so near its transfiguration it is an innocent, insignificant-looking stream.  Glacier Point is on the south side of the valley, just in the angle where it branches into three.  The view from this point is by common consent the finest to be had of the entire valley.  The Nevada, Vernal and Yosemite falls are all in full view.  The Bridal Veil fall, being on the same side, is hidden by some projecting peaks.  The great South or Half Dome looms up and arrests the eye at every turn.  Mirror lake shines in the distance.  Lemon's orchards, which are quite large and contain full-grown trees, look like patches of shrubbery.  Men in the valley look like insects, and even horses can scarcely be distinguished, except when in motion; yet every feature, every lineament of the valley is distinctly seen.  A projecting rock affords a place where the beholder can go to the very verge and look into the secret places of the valley, if the nerves can be trusted; but one scarcely wishes to stay there long; the head grows dizzy, and the heart aches with the fullness of its emotions.  With a lingering gaze, and with such feelings as arise when we take the last look at the face of a dead friend whose influence has ennobled, whose aspiration has elevated us, we turn away.  But this look is not our last; we are to have one more view.  A ride of about a mile brought us to Sentinel Dome.  This point is farther back from the edge of the valley, in the rear of Sentinel Rock.  From here, also, we had a view of all the principal falls except the Bridal Veil, and of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Our Sabbath at Peregoy's had an added pleasure in the arrival of a large party bound for the Yosemite valley, among whom we were glad to recognize those whom we had known in other days, whose presence was a delight.  There was a preacher among them, who added to the interest of the occasion by holding an evening service and delivering an appropriate sermon.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Our return was over the same road that we went, and was without incident or adventure.</P>
126.sgm:<P>Thus ended this memorable and interesting trip.  I do not know anything for which I would barter the experiences it brought into my life, if there could be secured to me no chance to replace them.  To be sure there were fatigue and hardship connected with it; but when one is paid down for all that is suffered, and paid so amply, it would surely be unreasonable to complain.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The circumstances were propitious.  Fellow-travelers were not only agreeable, but generally disposed to take things as they came, and make the best of them without fault-finding or complaint.  We were fortunate in our guide; Captain Folsom was familiar with all the localities, and ready to tell what he knew to those who wanted to hear.  He was one of that military company which followed the Indians into the valley in 1851, and therefore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>I cannot close my narrative without also saying a good word for Alek.  I dare not commend him for his swiftness, but there are those who believe in the old maxim that safety is better than speed.  To such his services would be desirable.  I am not sure that I can truthfully say I think his judgment infallible; at least, I should not compliment myself in doing so.  I am quite sure that to this day he looks upon me as a chicken-hearted individual who habitually carries her heart in her mouth and does not dare say her soul is her own if anyone asserts to the contrary.  Differing widely in opinion on this point, as I did, I never could persuade him to change his views and come over to my belief.  But even this error only shows how much persistency he has, and how great a regard for that jewel, consistency.  At any rate, I forgive him his mistake, and remember gratefully that he carried me safely over frightful places--up and down perpendiculars that the uninitiated would have pronounced impossibilities of accomplishment.  May his life be long and his shadow never grow less! and may his last days be spent in green pastures through which run streams of living waters, so that he may eat and drink at his pleasure until he lies down to rest with "the kings and conquerors of the earth!"</P>
126.sgm:<P>No one can see this wonderful valley, or even read an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>Until recently the Yosemite valley was believed to be altogether unique--the only one of the kind in all the wide world.  But another has been found in this wonderful region, so like it that there seems to have been one model for both; only the scale is diminished, as though Nature had tried her 'prentice hand on this before attempting the greater Yosemite.  This smaller valley is sixteen miles northeast from the Yosemite in the high Sierras, and on the Tuolumne river.  It is called the Hetch-hetchy.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P>There have been many improvements made in the modes of reaching the Yosemite valley since the visit was made of which an account has been given.  By four different routes the wheels of carriages now carry the tourist from the terminus of the railroad to the door of any of the hotels in the valley.  In consequence of improvements in roads it can be visited earlier in the season.  The time required for the trip is also less.  The valley can be reached in three days from San Francisco.  But let no one who wishes to see the valley well stay there less than a week, and if the one week can be multiplied by four the visit will be all the more satisfactory.</P>
126.sgm:<P>The expense of the round trip from San Francisco and back is estimated at sixty dollars, though it would probably be best to allow a little margin for extras.  There were three thousand visitors to the valley during the year 1875.</P>
126.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<DIV><AD><P>PUBLISHED BY S. C. GRIGGS &amp; CO., CHICAGO.</P>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">ANDERSON'S NORSE MYTHOLOGY; or The Religion of Our Forefathers.</HI>
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126.sgm:<P>"A masterly work...No American book of recent years does equal credit to American scholarship, or is deserving of a more pronounced success."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Globe</HI>
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126.sgm:<P>"I like it decidedly.  A mythologist must be not only a scholar but a bit of a poet, otherwise he will never understand that petrified poetry out of which the mythology of every nation is built up.  You seem to me to have that gift of poetic divination, and, therefore, whenever I approach the dark runes of the Edda, I shall gladly avail myself of your help and guidance."</P>
126.sgm:<P>Yours truly,<HSEP><HI REND="italics">F. Max Muller</HI>
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126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">PRE-HISTORIC RACES OF THE UNITED STATES.</HI>
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126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">THE GREAT CONVERSERS, and Other Essays.</HI>
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126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">THE WORLD ON WHEELS, and Other Sketches.</HI>
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126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">OLD-TIME PICTURES and SHEAVES of RHYME.</HI>
126.sgm:<P>Price<HSEP>$2 00</P>
126.sgm:<P>The same, full gilt edges and gilt side<HSEP>2 50</P>
126.sgm:<P>JOHN G. WHITTIER <HI REND="italics">writes</HI>
126.sgm::--"It gives me pleasure to see the poems of B. F. Taylor issued by your house in a form worthy of their merit.  Such pieces as the ` <HI REND="italics">Old Village Choir,' `The Vane on the Spire</HI>
126.sgm:,' and ` <HI REND="italics">June</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"Unless it be Whittier, we know of no American poet so sweet, tender and gentle in his lyrics as B. F. Taylor.  No writer of to-day sings the praises of rural life and scenery as eloquently, and we do not wonder that many of his poems have become classic.  The holiday volume of his happy verses, OLD TIME PICTURES AND SHEAVES OF RHYME is a very eloquent and daintily bound volume, and comes from that growing and reliable publishing house of the West, S. C. Griggs &amp; Company, of Chicago.  Taking up this handsomely printed book, we have to linger on the delightful imagery and graceful diction of its pages, glowing as they are with pure and tender thoughts, and the earnest, indescribable music of sunny fields and rural joys.**No one can read it but will be the better for so doing."-- <HI REND="italics">The Albany Morning Express</HI>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">PICTURES OF LIFE IN CAMP AND FIELD</HI>
126.sgm:<P>12mo, cloth<HSEP>$1.50</P>
126.sgm:<P>"The descriptions are singularly brilliant."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Sunday Times</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"The book will greatly interest large classes of readers."-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Gazette</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"A volume that embalms such stories of the nation's sorest hour of trial, cannot lack for thrilled and tearful readers."-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Tribune</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"The war annals of ancient or modern times, from C&aelig;sar's campaigns to the Franco-Prussian war, will furnish material no more beautifully wrought up than this, by the word-artist of the Great Rebellion."-- <HI REND="italics">New England Journal of Education</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"Every letter is replete with pathos; every description is a power, and most of the anecdotes touching in the extreme.  It is almost impossible to say which of these letters is best, but taken as a whole, they have formed a book that will live.-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Times</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"The beauty of diction, amazing life-likeness, stirring action and rich coloring of these word-pictures of camp and field, have had a deservedly popular reception....The art of the writer of these letters is marvelous...Their correctness as to facts is seldom to be questioned, and the beauty of the descriptions never."-- <HI REND="italics">Syracuse Journal</HI>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">PATMOS; or, The Kingdom and the Patience.</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"It merits universal circulation."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Standard, Philadelphia</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"A book for the improvement of the heart."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Guardian, Toronto</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"Admirably calculated to challenge the Christian reader to utmost doing and enduring for the sake of the Master."-- <HI REND="italics">Watchman and Reflector, Boston</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"No one can read the nine chapters which the volume contains, without receiving a new inspiration to faithful service in the cause of Christ."-- <HI REND="italics">Zion's Advocate</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"To earnest seekers for higher spiritual attainments the author has rendered a service at once great and beautiful.  Originality of thought, beauty and purity of expression and graphic delineation, are among its marked features."-- <HI REND="italics">National Baptist, Philadelphia</HI>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">THE TRINITY.</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"One of the most unique, sincere and thorough discussions of the subject of the Trinity, which we have ever seen...we commend its perusal to all our brethren."-- <HI REND="italics">American Wesleyan, N.Y</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"A thoughtful and very interesting book....Much that he says is forcible and inciting to renewed thought."-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Union, N.Y.</HI>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">PHILOSOPHY OF THE PLAN OF SALVATION.</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"Though written with great simplicity, it is evidently the production of a master mind.**and few works are more adapted to bring skeptics of a certain class to a stand.**It is the disclosure of the actual process of mind through which the author passes, from the dark regions of doubt and infidelity to the clear light and conviction of a sound and heartfelt belief of the truth as it is in Jesus.</P>
126.sgm:<P>"There is in many parts of this treatise, a force of argument and a power of conviction almost resistless.</P>
126.sgm:<P>"It is a work of extraordinary power.**We think it is <HI REND="italics">more likely to lodge an impression in the human conscience, in favor of the divine authority of Christianity</HI>
126.sgm:, than any work of the modern press."-- <HI REND="italics">London Evangelical Magazine, England</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"No single volume we ever read has been so satisfactory a demonstration of the truth of religion, or has had so strong a controlling influence over our habits of thought.**No better book can be put into the hands of the honest and intellectual skeptic.  It is overwhelmingly convincing to reason, and leaves the doubter nothing but his passions and prejudices to bolster him up.**Every minister's library should have a copy."-- <HI REND="italics">The Methodist Protestant, Baltimore</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"It fills a place in theological literature which no other book does.  It is the style of the argument which gives power, impressiveness, and perennial freshness to this production.**We have found in pastoral experience that we could place no better uninspired book than this in the hands of intelligent doubters, or in the hands of new converts, for their aid and guidance.  Those who are not familiar with it, will do well to procure a copy and study it carefully.  It is worth more than some large libraries to those who read for their profiting."-- <HI REND="italics">The Christian at Work, New York</HI>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">THE DOCTRINE OF THE HOLY SPIRIT; Or Philosophy of the Divine Operation in the Redemption of Man.</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"The author's former able works have prepared the public for the rich treasures of thought in this volume.  It is a book of foundation principles, and deals in the verities of the gospel as with scientific facts.  It is an unanswerable argument in behalf of Christ's life, mission, and doctrine, and especially rich in its teachings concerning the office and work of the Spirit.  No volume has lately issued from the press which brings so many timely truths to the public attention.  While it is metaphysical and thorough, it is also clever, forceful, winning for its grand truth's sake, and <HI REND="italics">every way readable</HI>
126.sgm:.  The author has wrought a great work for the Christian Church, and <HI REND="italics">every minister and teacher should arm himself with strong weapons</HI>
126.sgm: by perusing the arguments of this book.  It is printed and bound in the exquisite style of all publications which issue from Messrs. S. C. Griggs &amp; Co.'s establishment."-- <HI REND="italics">Methodist Recorder, Pittsburgh</HI>
126.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
126.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">ROBERT'S RULES OF ORDER,</HI>
126.sgm:<P>This book is far superior to any other parliamentary manual in the English language.  It gives in the simplest form possible all the various rules or points of law or order that can arise in the deliberations of any lodge, grange, debating club, literary society, convention, or other organized body, and every rule is complete in itself, and as easily found as a word in a dictionary.  Its crowning excellence is a "Table of Rules relating to Motions," on two opposite pages which contains the answers to more than two hundred questions on parliamentary law, which will be of the greatest value to every member of an assembly.</P>
126.sgm:<P>"It should be studied by all who wish to become familiar with the correct usages of public meetings."-- <HI REND="italics">E. O. Haven, D.D., Chancellor of Syracuse University</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"It seems much better adapted to the use of societies and assemblies than either Jefferson's Manual or Cushing's."-- <HI REND="italics">F. M. Gregory, LL.D., late President of the Illinois Industrial University</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"I shall be very glad to see your Manual brought into general use, as I am sure it must be, when its great merit and utility become generally known.-- <HI REND="italics">Hon. T. M. Cooley, LL.D., author of `Cooley's Blackstone,'" etc</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"After carefully examining it and comparing it with several other books having the same object in view, I am free to say that it is, by far, the best of all.  The `Table of Rules' is worth the cost of the work."-- <HI REND="italics">Thomas Bowman, D.D., Bishop of Baltimore M. E. Conference</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"This capital little manual will be found exceedingly useful by all who are concerned in the organization or management of societies of various kinds....If we mistake not, the book will displace all its predecessors, as an authority on parliamentary usages."-- <HI REND="italics">New York World</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"I admire the plan of your work, and the simplicity and fidelity with which you have executed it.  It is one of the best compendiums of Parliamentary Law that I have seen, and exceedingly valuable, not only for the matter usually embraced in such a book, but for its tables and incidental matter, which serve greatly to adapt it to common use."-- <HI REND="italics">Dr. D. C. Eddy, Speaker of the Massachusets House of Representatives</HI>
126.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">MISHAPS OF MR. EZEKIEL PELTER.</HI>
126.sgm:<P>12mo, cloth<HSEP>$1.50.</P>
126.sgm:<P>"So ludicrous are the vicissitudes of the much-abused Ezekiel, and so much of human nature and every-day life intermingle, that it will be read with a hearty zest for its <HI REND="italics">morals</HI>
126.sgm:, while the humor is irresistible.  If you want to laugh at something new, a regular side-plitter, get this book."-- <HI REND="italics">The Evangelist, St. Louis</HI>
126.sgm:<P>"We have read Ezekiel.  We have laughed and cried over its pages.  It grows in interest to the last sentence.  The story is well told, and the moral so good, that we decidedly like and commend it."-- <HI REND="italics">Pacific Baptist, San Francisco</HI>
127.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-127</TITLE>
127.sgm:<TITLE>Granite crags; by C.F. Gordon Cumming: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
127.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
127.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
127.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
127.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
127.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-849</LCCN>
127.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
127.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
127.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<P>GRANITE CRAGS</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<illus entity="a127-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SENTINEL ROCK.</p></CAPTION>
127.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<P>GRANITE CRAGS</p><P>BY</p><P>C. F. GORDON CUMMING</p><P>AUTHOR OF</p><P>`AT HOME IN FIJI,' `FIRE FOUNTAINS,' `A LADY'S CRUISE IN</p><P>A FRENCH MAN-OF-WAR,' `IN THE HEBRIDES'</p><P>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS</p><P>WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS</p><P>EDINBURGH AND LONDON</p><P>MDCCCLXXXIV</p><P><HI REND="italics">All Rights reserved</HI>
127.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>TAHITI TO SAN FRANCISCO--EASTER-DAY IN CALIFORNIA--A NEW CITY--RECLAIMED LAND--WILD LUPINES--SEA-OTTERS--THE LONE MOUNTAIN--PROGRESSIVE FUNERALS,<HSEP>1<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>SPANISH NAMES--TRACES OF THE EARLY MISSION--SAN RAFAEL--THE COAST RANGE--REDWOOD FOREST--A CHAIN OF VOLCANOES--A PARADISE OF FLOWERS--POISON-OAK,<HSEP>37<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>START FOR THE SIERRA NEVADA--THE GREAT SAN JOAQUIN AND SACRAMENTO VALLEYS--WHOLESALE FARMING-ORCHARDS--MERCED--HORNITOS--PAH-UTE INDIANS--MARIPOSA VALLEY--CLARKE'S RANCH,<HSEP>54<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>IN THE FOREST--SEQUOIA GIGANTEA--THE RED SNOW-FLOWER--YO&macr;-SEMITE&acute; VALLEY IN WINTER--A SNOW-SHOWER,<HSEP>75</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<P>CHAPTER V.<LB>TO THE VALLEY--A WAYSIDE LUNCH--A GRANITE PRISON--GIANT CRAGS--BRIDAL VEIL FALL--LEAFLESS TREES--MAY-DAY--GRANITE ARCHES--MIRROR LAKE--GRANITE DOMES,<HSEP>91<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>THE GREAT YO&macr;-SEMITE&acute; FALLS--SEEN FROM BELOW, SIDEWAYS, AND FROM ABOVE--MOUNTAIN-TRAILS--OTHER YO&macr;-SEMITE&acute;S--THE DOMES--GEORGE ANDERSON,<HSEP>109<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>A COTTAGE HOTEL--THE VILLAGE--YOUNG STUDENTS--THE CASCADES--DIGGER INDIAN CAMP--PRIMITIVE MAN--ACORN-FLOUR--EDIBLE PINES--INDIAN AGENCIES--THE MODOC WAR,<HSEP>126<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>THE STRUGGLES OF THE RED MAN AND THE WHITE--ATTACKS ON THE RAILROAD BY INDIANS AND BY BRIGANDS,<HSEP>151<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>RIDE TO GLACIER POINT--VIEW OF THE MERCED AND LYELL GROUPS--A NEW REST-HOUSE--FROGS' CHORUS--VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS--A SECLUDED INN--CLOUD'S REST,<HSEP>168<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>EASY LIFE IN THE VALLEY--INDIAN NAMES--MINERS' NAMES--PLANTS AND FLOWERS--HURRIED TRAVELLERS--GOD SAVE THE QUEEN!--SUNDAY SERVICES,<HSEP>187</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XI.<LB>A GENERAL SKETCH OF THE MOUNTAIN-RANGES OF CALIFORNIA,<HSEP>216<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>HOME LETTERS--CALIFORNIAN POSTS TWENTY YEARS AGO--HAPPY DAYS IN THE VALLEY--THE NOBLE SAVAGE--CAMPERS--RATTLESNAKES--NATIONALPARKS,<HSEP>235<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>THE FOURTH OF JULY--BALLS IN THE SIERRAS--A PARTY OF EXPLORERS--HETCH-HETCHY VALLEY--SUMMIT OF CLOUD'S REST--SUNSET--BLACKBERRIES,<HSEP>262<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>HUMAN SHEEP--EXHIBITION--WATKINS'S PHOTOGRAPHS--FAREWELL TO YO&macr;-SEMITE&acute;--TUOLUMNE BIG TREE--PLACER-MINING--CHINESE CAMP--SONORA--PACTOLUS--HYDRAULIC MINING--A MINER'S CITY--FRUIT AND DUST,<HSEP>281<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>HOT GORGE OF THE STANISLAUS--A SLEEPY COACHMAN--MURPHY'S--A CHILL DRIVE--CALAVERAS--THE FOREST--BIG TREES--RATTLESNAKES--WOODPECKERS AND BLUE JAYS--MAGGOTS--SQUIRRELS--TARANTULAS,<HSEP>301<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>THE FORESTS OF THE SIERRAS--PINUS LAMBERTIANA--ABIES WILLIAMSONII, ABIES DOUGLASII--PICEA AMABILIS, PICEA GRANDIS--PINUS MONTICOLA, PINUS PONDEROSA, PINUS CONTORTA, PINUS TUBERCULATA,<HSEP>322</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>IN THE SOUTH GROVE--GIANT TREES--HAPPY HUNTING-GROUNDS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA--MURPHY'S--VIGILANCE COMMITTEES--BILL FOSDICK'SFAILING,<HSEP>333<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>A CALIFORNIAN HARVEST--GLENN'S FARM--LARGE VEGETABLES--SOUTHERN ORCHARDS--CALIFORNIAN OLIVES--BEET-ROOT SUGAR--GERANIUM HEDGES--LUXURIANT ROSES,<HSEP>348<LB>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>CHROMO-LITHOGRAPHY--CALIFORNIAN GRAPES, AND WINES--SOCIETY--A TOIL OF A PLEASURE--A HOME IN THE NEW WORLD,<HSEP>359<LB>APPENDIX,<HSEP>375</p></DIV>
127.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>THE SENTINEL ROCK,<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
127.sgm:<LB>LOOKING DOWN THE VALLEY,<HSEP>94<LB>THE YO&macr;SEMITE&acute; FALLS,<HSEP>110<LB>INDIAN CAMP BESIDE THE MERCED RIVER,<HSEP>132<LB>GLACIER POINT,<HSEP>168<LB>THE MAY FLOODS IN THE VALLEY,<HSEP>176<LB>THE NEVADA AND VERNAL FALLS,<HSEP>178<LB>VIEW OF THE SIERRAS FROM SENTINEL DOME,<HSEP>286<LB>MAP,<HSEP><HI REND="italics">at end of book</HI>
127.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>TAHITI TO SAN FRANCISCO--EASTER-DAY IN CALIFORNIA--A NEW CITY--RECLAIMED LAND--WILD LUPINES--SEA-OTTERS--THE LONE MOUNTAIN--PROGRESSIVE FUNERALS.</p><P>ON BOARD THE PALOMA, OFF CALIFORNIA,</p><P><HI REND="italics">Easter-Eve, April</HI>
127.sgm: 20, 1878.</p><P>DEAR BROTHER WANDERER,--I must write you a few lines ere setting foot for the first time in the great New World, that I may despatch them as soon as we touch land, and start them off in search of you.  I suppose if I address to London--the great centre--they will be forwarded to you somewhere within a year, whether your erratic flight has landed you in Kamschatka or Patagonia, Spitzbergen or Tasmania.</p><P>As for me, I am strangely behindhand in the matter of news, as it is <HI REND="italics">nine months</HI>
127.sgm: since a letter has reached me, with the exception of a few inter-insular notes from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:French officials and Tahitian chiefesses--kind, good friends, who have made the last half-year wonderfully pleasant to me.</p><P>But from kinsfolk and home, not one message could have reached me, and a few chance sentences in stray newspapers have been the only echoes that have floated to me across the great waters.  For of course all my letters were sent to Fiji, which, as you know, has been our home for the last two years.  (I left it in the beginning of September, tempted by an invitation to make a very delightful cruise in a French man-of-war, which has resulted in my remaining for several months in beautiful Tahiti.)</p><P>Of course the last letters that reached me ere I left Fiji were rather antiquated, bearing date June 4, 1877; and all of more recent date have gone on accumulating in Fiji, till, finding I could not return there direct, I requested that they should be sent to await me at Honolulu, which port I hoped to have reached ere now in one of the sailing vessels which are occasionally despatched from Tahiti to fetch cattle from the Sandwich Isles.</p><P>However, after long waiting, I found that the chances of getting a ship were so uncertain, that the shortest way in the end would be to take a passage all the way to San Francisco in this little brigantine of 230 tons, and thence return to Honolulu by one of the Great Pacific mail-steamers.</p><P>As your wanderings have not yet led you to the Pacific (and I know that you, like myself, only learn your geography by actually going over the ground), I may as well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:mention that the distance from Tahiti to Honolulu is about two thousand miles, and from Tahiti to San Francisco is actually about four thousand miles, measured as the crow flies.  But what with untoward winds and unlooked-for currents, our flight has rather resembled that of the great brown "gonies" that bear us company, and we have contrived on this voyage to make fully six thousand miles, and have taken six weeks to do it, and that, without touching land.</p><P>The gonies would delight you.  What may be their scientific name I cannot say for certain, though I am told that they are young albatross, who, like the "ugly duckling," do not develop their snowy plumage the first year.  We see a few of these grand birds, with the wild, fearless eyes, and there is no mistaking <HI REND="italics">them</HI>
127.sgm:; but the gonies are our never-failing companions.  They are large birds of a greyish-brown colour, with long, narrow wings, black-tipped.  I am sure some of them must measure six feet across.  They wheel around us, and sweep to and fro with an easy, graceful flight, which is beautiful to behold, and fills me with envy.  Oh, had I the wings of a gonie!  Sometimes a tempting fish-shoal attracts them, and they drop far behind us.  A few moments later they are miles ahead; so, apparently without the slightest exertion, they float to and fro at their own wild will, and travel ten times faster than the swiftest steamer.</p><P>Though the voyage has been so unexpectedly prolonged, I cannot say that I have found it unpleasant; quite the contrary, it has been like a summer yachting cruise.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<P>The Paloma<ANCHOR ID="n1-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: is a beautiful little ship, carrying a crowd of whitest sails; she is exquisitely clean, her ship's company consist of singularly quiet, gentle Swedes, Germans, and Rarotongans.  Our cabins are very comfortable; my only fellow-passengers are most friendly and agreeable.  We carry a cargo of 270,000 oranges, gathered green in the orange-groves of Tahiti, but which have ripened during this long voyage, and we have done our best to diminish their number.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-11">The Dove ( <HI REND="italics">Spanish</HI>
127.sgm:<P>We have had lovely weather, though too often becalmed for days together, or else drifting aimlessly with the currents, or just kept moving by the faintest, softest breeze, which has generally carried us in the wrong direction.  I never more fully realised the weariness of the "wandering fields of barren foam."</p><P>We have proved the truth of the old adage, that after a storm comes a calm, for just before we sailed from Tahiti, a terrific hurricane had swept over the isles lying to the north, in the "Dangerous Archipelago."  Many land birds came on board when we were fully three hundred miles from the Paumotus.  The captain says they are kinds which he has never seen on any previous voyage, so he believes they had been blown away from home by the hurricane.  He thinks the whole atmosphere is out of order, as, according to all experience, we have been entitled to a south-east trade-wind all the time, whereas, for days and days together, every breath of air was from north-east, driving us far out of our course.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
127.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
127.sgm:<P>The moonlight nights have been perfect, clear as day. Occasionally we have had heavy showers, which we hailed with delight, as affording us a chance of a fresh-water bath.  For though the good Rarotongans daily rig up a bathing-tent on deck, where we may splash to our heart's content in great tubs of salt water, we often think regretfully of the lovely limpid streams of Tahiti, and long for soft fresh water.  So whenever a welcome shower begins, we don our Tahitian <HI REND="italics">sacques</HI>
127.sgm: (long flowing dressing-gowns), and bless the heaven-sent shower-bath.</p><P>Now we are drawing very near our journey's end, and I confess I do hope I may have a few days on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
127.sgm: ere starting on the long return voyage to Hawaii.  We have been looking forward to spending Easter-day ashore, but now there appears very small chance of our doing so.</p><P>Since the Easter morning when we sailed from Marseilles, I have never been within hail of our own Church for any one festival.  The following Easter was spent in the wilds of Fiji, and this day last year I was among the Maoris of the volcanic region in New Zealand.  As to Christmas, the first was spent with a wild tribe of Fijians who had only just given up cannibalism; on the next, we were transhipping from a little steamer to a big one, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
127.sgm: to New Zealand; and last Christmas-day found me in one of the loveliest of Tahitian valleys.  So you see that a real ecclesiastical Easter would have special attractions.  Nevertheless we have almost given up hope of reaching land so soon, as the wind has failed us again.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">Easter Monday</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>I had written so far when a fresh breeze sprang up, and we literally flew the last hundred and fifty miles, entering the Golden Gates at 2 A.M.  It was clear moonlight, so I was able to reconnoitre, and took in my first impressions of America, in a series of lighthouses, which mark various points in the magnificent harbour, in which there is said to be room for all the navies of Europe.  Finally, we anchored just before the cold grey dawn crept up, with a chilling shiver (oh how different from the balmy tropical mornings in which I have revelled for so long!).</p><P>There was nothing golden in our first glimpses of California.  We indulged in a jorum of excellent hot gin-toddy, to correct the bitter, damp cold; and soon after sunrise we watched a number of huge steamers, densely crowded with excursionists, start from the different wharfs, to make the most of the Easter holiday.</p><P>Then we made our little preparations for landing.  A sleepy, shivering Custom-house officer had come on board near the harbour-mouth; but as it was Sunday, none of our baggage could pass the Customs.  We were each, however, allowed to take a small bag, supposed to be sufficient for one night.  Apparently every one is expected to bear his own burden in this free and independent land, but the friendly Swedish mate insisted on carrying the ladies' bags to the hotel where we secured rooms.</p><P>By this time the Easter chimes were pealing from a multitude of church bells, and the streets were thronged with masses of human beings.  The grey chill morning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:was succeeded by a day of brilliant sunlight, and among the crowds of church-goers were many in apparel positively gorgeous.  London streets would wonder to find themselves swept by such magnificent satins and velvets, or to see such diamonds glittering in the light of the sun.  It struck me painfully to notice the great proportion of women who would evidently have been attractive but for the free use of white and rouge: you might fancy that "this glorious climate of California" could dispense with such polluting adjuncts, but these ladies evidently think otherwise.  And yet how they would despise their brown sisters or brothers who on a gala-day "assist nature" by a touch of vermilion or a few streaks of blue!</p><P>My travelling companion being a rigid Roman Catholic, led the way to St Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral, where the bishop was celebrating High Mass.  It is a plain building, but made beautiful by its Easter decorations and the profusion of exquisite flowers.  Thousands of roses and lilies made the air fragrant, and were doubly welcome to eyes weary of the broad restless ocean.</p><P>It seemed to me somewhat a strange coincidence that, having received my last ecclesiastical impressions of the Old World at the Roman Catholic Church of Saint Roch, in Paris, on Good Friday 1875, I should next hear the grand Easter Anthem in a Roman Catholic cathedral on this my first morning in the New World.  The singing was most lovely, but the crowd was so dense that there was not a chance of a seat; so, leaving my friend to her devotions, I went to Grace Church--an Episcopal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Church which she had pointed out to me a little farther.</p><P>This was likewise densely crowded, but a very civil stranger gave me his seat, for which I was grateful, the walk uphill from the wharf having proved fatiguing.  Here also the decorations are most elaborate.  Besides the great cross above the altar (made entirely of rare hothouse flowers), there hangs suspended from the great chancel arch an immense cross of pure white Calla lilies ( <HI REND="italics">Arum</HI>
127.sgm: ) in a circle of evergreens, beneath which, in very large evergreen letters, each hanging separate, is the angel's Easter greeting--"HE IS RISEN."  The effect of this device, so mysteriously floating in mid-air, is very striking.</p><P>In every corner of the church flowers have been showered with the same lavish hand--the font, lectern, pulpit, organ, walls, but especially in the chancel, where the choicest flowers are reserved for the altar-vases and the altar-rails, which are altogether hidden by the wealth of exquisite roses.  To some sensitive persons I can imagine that their perfume might have been overpowering, but to me it seemed like a breath from heaven.</p><P>It was pleasant, too, in this "far country," to hear the old familiar liturgy, like a voice from over the wide waters, bringing with it a flood of home memories and associations.  Moreover, it was quite unexpected, as during the last two years I have been thrown in company with so many different regiments of the great Christian army, that I suppose I had assumed that this Californian church would prove one more variety.  Certainly I had not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:realised that America has preserved the old Book of Common Prayer almost intact, with only a few minor changes, every one of which seems to have been dictated by good common-sense--as, for instance, after the Commandments, where we so abruptly introduce the prayer for the Queen, the American priest adds, "Hear also what our Lord Jesus Christ saith," and sums up the Old Law by pronouncing the New Commandment, in the words of St Matthew, xxii. 37-40.  He then offers the closing prayer from the Confirmation Service, that we may be kept in the ways of God's law and the works of His commandments.</p><P>All vain repetitions are avoided.  Either the Apostles' Creed or the Nicene may be said both morning and evening, but never both during one service.  The frequent reiteration of the Lord's Prayer is avoided.  In the Canticles, such portions as seem inapplicable to ourselves (such as the last half of the Venite) are omitted, and verses of praise from the Psalms are substituted.  The Magnificat is replaced by the 92d Psalm; the Nunc Dimittis by the 103d, "Praise the Lord, O my soul."  Some advantageous verbal alterations occur--as in the Litany, "In all time of our wealth" is rendered "all time of our prosperity."</p><P>The principal variations from the English Prayer-Book occur in the order of the Service for the Holy Communion, which is almost identical with the old office of the Scottish Episcopal Church, and as such, familiar to my ears.  In short, all was as a dream of home, with the exception <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:of the strange and unnatural sound of hearing for the first time the name of the President of the United States substituted for that of "Victoria our Queen," and the use of the term "Christian rulers" in lieu of "kings."</p><P>The singing is admirable, but not congregational.  It is left to a carefully trained (and, I am told, highly paid) choir of men and women.  Surpliced choirs are apparently not in favour here, from an impression that they tend toward dreaded ritualism.</p><P>In the course of the day I looked into various other churches, each vying with the other in the beauty of its Easter decorations.  One had the entire reredos, as it were, inlaid with lilies of the valley on a groundwork of maiden-hair fern; above the altar was a beautiful cross of white camellias and tuberoses, and the chancel-rails, lectern, and pulpit are dressed with lovely leaves of Calla lilies, while the most exquisite white exotics adorn the font.  Wreaths and emblems, crosses and crowns, of white camellias or white pinks, with here and there a point of rich colour in some grand cluster of glorious red roses, delight the eye wherever it turns.</p><P>This morning the newspapers devote several pages to descriptions of the principal features of each church in the city.  It reduces the poetry of the thing to somewhat of a prosaic detail, to find an exact record of how many thousands of each flower were used in the decoration of each church, and what favourite "stars" sang in each choir.  I learn that in Grace Church four thousand white Calla lilies form one item.  Yet they did not seem more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:numerous there than in many other churches; so the inference is, that we have reached a floral paradise, strikingly in contrast with my recent experience of the general scarcity of flowers in the South Sea Isles.</p><P>You would have thought that this was indeed the case could you have seen this city yesterday evening.  In California the evening of Easter-day is the children's flower festival, and every church in San Francisco devotes its evening service to the little ones.  I found my way back to Grace Church, and have rarely witnessed a prettier spectacle.  There must have been many hundred children, of all ranks and ages, down to the tiniest toddles of the infant school.  All were prettily dressed, and they marched in procession, carrying silken banners, and singing carols.  All carried flowers, either in pretty baskets, or great bouquets, or arranged in some device.  Many had collected small offerings of money for different charitable objects, and each, in turn presented its gift to be laid on the altar, which soon was literally buried beneath the flowers heaped upon it, which were afterwards distributed to the hospitals and to all the sick poor throughout the great city, that they might whisper the Easter message to many a lonely sufferer.  The service consisted chiefly of carol-singing by the little ones and their teachers, and it was altogether very bright and happy.</p><P>I do not know how all this strikes you.  To me, I must confess, it was a great surprise.  I had imagined this city of St Francis to be most unsaintly--or, not to mince words, I supposed it was still the rowdy city where, but a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:few years ago, such wild scenes of misrule were the common events of daily life.  And now my first impressions are of thronged churches, hymns of praise, and flower festivals!  After the evening service I walked back to the hotel alone, passing through several dimly lighted streets.  All seemed quiet and peaceful.  Multitudes of young girls and their teachers must have gone by lonely and devious paths on their homeward way.  But no shadow of dread seemed to suggest itself to any parents.  And yet, when I returned to the hotel, I heard gentlemen discussing the state of the town, and declaring that it was unsafe to go out after dark without a revolver.  Evidently the subject admits of varied colouring.</p><P>I am told that the "dangerous class" here are a race of young rowdies, known here as "hoodlums," a recognised class of roughs, male and female, whose misdeeds are a constant source of annoyance to the citizens, who nevertheless seem powerless to suppress the mischief.  I suppose that the police are numerically too weak (they only number about four hundred); and of course this great city yields a very large body of ill-conditioned "hobbledehoys," who form a raw material ready to develop into full-blown criminals.</p><P>There are a large number of well-known gangs of these young ne'er-do-weels, composed of lads and lassies of the very roughest type, who are always on the prowl, looking out what mischief they can do.  Many of them carry knives and revolvers, and glory in a chance of using them, not only on belated wanderers, but occasionally on quiet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:shopkeepers whose goods they covet, or publicans whose beer and spirits they object to pay for.  But the poor, inoffensive, diligent Chinamen are the objects of especial hatred to these cowardly rascals, who never miss a chance of molesting them; and, of course, no policeman ever happens to be near when one of the gangs sets upon some solitary workman, and beat and kick him within an inch of his life.</p><P><HI REND="italics">April</HI>
127.sgm: 23 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>What a strange world this is for unexpected meetings!  Two years ago a Sussex friend sent me a letter of introduction to the representative of a large banking firm in this city.  Yesterday morning, finding that three weeks would elapse ere a steamer sailed for Honolulu, I questioned whether there was any use in delivering so stale a letter.  Counsels of wisdom said "Yes," so the letter was sent out, and half an hour later the writer himself stood beside me!  I then learnt, what I had never before realised, that he is himself the head of the firm, and had just chanced to run out from England on some matter of business, so his own letter was handed to him.</p><P>Never was the face of a friend more welcome.  Having recently parted with some of my kindred, he was able to give me good news of them, and soon afterwards he returned with Mr Booker, H.B.M. Consul, who had tidings of my friends in Fiji.  Both these gentlemen say, that if I had carefully selected my time for visiting California, I could not have chosen better, for that this is the very best <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:season.  An unusually wet winter is just over, and has left the country exquisitely green, and carpeted with wild flowers.  Every stream is full, and all waterfalls are in glory.  They say that if only the snows on the Sierra Nevada are sufficiently melted to allow of travelling, I ought on no account to miss seeing the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Valley, and that I could easily go there and back, before the steamer sails.  So they have promised to make all inquiries, and to look out for a suitable escort for this expedition.</p><P>Meanwhile, this morning, Mr Harrison took me for a long and most interesting drive to all the principal points in this gigantic baby city.  Strange, indeed, it is to hear of the marvellous changes that have occurred here within the last thirty years, all within his own memory.</p><P>Prior to 1849, San Francisco was merely one of twenty small stations of the old Spanish Mission; and the only antiquity to be seen in the city--the Westminster Abbey which knits the present century with the past--is the old mission church of the patron saint, St Francis of Assisi, a very plain building of adobe-- <HI REND="italics">i.e.</HI>
127.sgm:, sun-dried bricks.  In its graveyards are buried wanderers from many lands, but the churchyard, like the church, looks melancholy and decayed.  It bears date 1776, and was the first church of the little Spanish colony of priests, who came here to teach the Indians, and were the only white men on this coast prior to the discovery of gold.</p><P>They themselves knew of the existence of gold, but they discouraged all search for it, knowing well the evil that must result to their Indian converts whenever that mad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:excitement, consequent on a gold-rush, should flood California with all the wild spirits of the earth.  And rightly these good fathers judged.</p><P>Till 1849 they were able to guard their fold.  Then came the gold-fever; and in a few months ships of all nations entered the Golden Gates, bringing thousands and tens of thousands to retrieve broken fortunes, or seek new ones, in this Land of Promise.  On the desert sandhills, where hitherto only a few wandering Indians had built their bark huts, there were now scattered tents, standing singly or in groups.  Soon disorderly little settlements of shabby shanties were run up, which gradually enlarged till they covered all the available land.</p><P>The history of those early years was a chronicle of anarchy.  Life in the city was one of reckless dissipation--a natural reaction from the hardest phases of privation and toil endured in search of gold.  Society was turned upside down.  Men well born and well bred were thankful to turn their hand to every conceivable work which would bring in the means of life.  I heard of one English gentleman who, finding himself robbed of everything except his rifle, made his way to the mining districts, and made a very fair living by shooting bears, whose flesh the hungry miners gladly bought at a dollar per pound.  As a good bear weighs six or seven hundred pounds, the hunter soon realised a "genteel competency" as a "flesher."</p><P>At first the miner's work was confined to what is called "placer" mining--that is, surface digging,--and washing for gold in beds of streams.  Then came the more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:systematic business of quartz-crushing; and by 1858 three hundred mills, with strong machinery, were hard at work.  By that time the gold-fever, having reached its height, began to subside; and multitudes, weary of certain toil for such uncertain profits, turned their minds to other industries.  By 1861, not more than fifty mills still continued at work.</p><P>By degrees the rowdies, who had given the settlement at San Francisco such a bad name, vanished before the presence of Vigilance Committees and Lynch law.  Those who escaped summary justice took the hint from a word of warning, and the majority went farther inland.</p><P>Now, in the place where those log and shingle huts then lay scattered, stands a vast city of 300,000 inhabitants.  It covers a space of forty-two square miles, and has many really splendid streets, and a large number of immense hotels like great palaces (most luxurious in every respect save that of cosiness--a point which strikes one, because so many families have no other home).</p><P>One of the principal buildings is the great Mint of the United States, said to be the most perfect institution of its kind in the whole world.  It is open to all comers every forenoon, and citizens and strangers are alike at liberty to inspect the manufacture of Californian gold into coins equivalent to English sovereigns, but so much purer, that ours will only pass here at a discount.</p><P>There are theatres and an opera-house; a great city hall; splendid public libraries, free to all citizens above fifteen years of age; equally free are the excellent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Government schools.  Besides these, every denomination has its special schools, churches, and chapels.  There are the Roman Catholic and Episcopal cathedrals, Jewish synagogues and Chinese temples, gorgeous Turkish baths, numerous admirable markets scattered through the city.  In its busy working districts there are foundries and machine shops, smithy-works, lumber-merchants' yards, artificial stone works, patent marble works, potteries, woollen factories--in short, every industry you can conceive.</p><P>And yet all the older inhabitants recollect when the site of this great city was only a tract of most desolate sandhills, and when ships were lying at anchor above the sands which now actually serve as foundation for one of the finest streets--one, moreover, at some distance from the sea, which has gradually been driven back, as men, determined to retain advantageous shipping positions, built their houses on piles, filled up the space beneath them, and so reclaimed acre after acre from the harbour.  The present sea-wall which guards this stolen ground is built up from a depth of about thirty feet below low-water mark.  There are not wanting prophets of evil to foretell days of possible disaster, when some tidal wave or volcanic distrubance shall arise and restore to Ocean the land thus wrested from it.</p><P>We drove to a high point, whence we could look down on the city as on a map.  The spot where we stood was once a quite lake, and my companion told me how his happiest hours were spent snipe-shooting on its shores.  Now it is one of the great reservoirs for the city.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>There are, however, other reservoirs in the Coast Range Mountains, so that the supply is equal to the great demand--which is enormously increased by the multitude of gardens and beautifully kept lawns, each requiring constant irrigation throughout the summer.  I am told that the water-rates are tremendous, and have to be paid monthly in advance.  Many families are said to spend far more on water than on bread; but they account it money well invested, as it has transformed these sand-mountains into a region of most luxuriant gardens.  Moreover, it is the safeguard against fire, which must be an ever-present danger in a town of which wood forms so large a part.</p><P>It certainly is strange to see a vast city with such splendid streets and such princely homes, large mansions and pleasant Elizabethan villas--all apparently of beautiful white stone--and then learn that it is all wooden, and that the stone-like appearance is produced by a sprinkling of fine sand over whitish paint.  This is not because there is any lack of stone for building purposes, but because the occasional slight earthquake shocks are a continual reminder that some day a great upheaval may come and swallow up--or at least severly shake--the huge young city.</p><P>There are boiling springs at no great distance from here, which forcibly suggest a connecting-link with the great volcanoes which lie to the north, and forbid too absolute security.  But even in respect to moderate earthquakes, wooden houses are found to suffer less than stone buildings, and are therefore preferred.</p><P>Recently, however, some of the great firms, who dread <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:fire more than earthquakes, have built their business houses of real stone.  The first to set this example was Wells, Fargo, &amp; Co.'s Express (who undertake to convey everything for everybody, to and from every corner of the known world).  But so expensive was labour in San Francisco, that this first stone house was imported bodily from China, where each block was cut and fitted ready for its place!</p><P>As a precaution against earthquakes, many of the principal buildings--hotels, warehouses, and shops--have an inner skeleton made of strong bands of wrought-iron, fastened together by immense iron bolts.  Over this frame-work is built an outer casing of brick or stone, supposed to be fire-proof.</p><P>It is said that in building the Palace Hotel three thousand tons of iron were used in preparing the bands for the skeleton, besides the enormous amount required for the great iron columns which support the vast building.  Of these there are upwards of sixty round the central quadrangle alone; and above this rise seven storeys, tier above tier, each with a similar number of columns.  Of the amount of iron-work in other parts of the building, I can form no notion; but as the building covers about three acres, you can imagine it is considerable.</p><P>There is also a fire-proof iron staircase, cased in solid brick and stone, extending to the very summit of the hotel, and with iron doors opening on to each floor, so as to ensure a retreat in case of need.  I can only say, "Heaven help all who have to trust to it!"</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Of course there are all manner of other staircases, besides the five "elevators" which are ceaselessly ascending and descending to convey all the inhabitants of the 750 suites of rooms (1000 bedrooms) to their several apartments.  These are graduated on a varying scale of luxury--"an apartment" generally including, at least, bedroom, bathroom, and sitting-room; and as every one of the 750 lodgers would feel aggrieved were he not provided with a bay-window, this and all the other great hotels are closely studded with these from top to bottom, presenting a very curious appearance externally.</p><P>Partly as a precaution against fire, the majority of dwelling-houses are built apart, each with a pleasant bit of shrubbery, so that you drive for miles through long avenues of fine detached houses, rather suggestive of the neighbourhood of a country town than of a huge busy city.</p><P>Of course in a town of which so large a portion is built of wood, the utmost importance attaches to the perfecting of every detail of fire-extinguishing organisation.  The ever-present danger is sufficiently proven by the fact that no less than ninety-five insurance companies have found it worth their while to establish agencies in this city.</p><P>These companies are obliged by the State to support a fire-brigade of their own, to supplement the work of the city fire-brigade. It is called the Underwriters' Fire Patrol; and so perfect is the organisation of these corps, that they literally move by electricity, and at any hour of day or night they are warranted to start a fully equipped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:fire-engine within ten seconds of the time when the electric alarm sounds.</p><P>In a large proportion of the citizens' houses there are electric signals, by which the first outbreak of fire can instantly communicated to the centre of the district, whence the alarm is immediately transmitted to every fire-station--the same electric current being employed to set in motion a series of most ingenious mechanical contrivances, which awaken both officers and men, light the gas, open the doors, and adjust the harness.</p><P>At every station the engines, which are worked by steam, are always ready--fires kindled, water boiling--and the splendid horses stand ready harnessed in their stalls, the weight of the collar being supported by a rope attached to the ceiling.  The electric stroke which sounds the alarm works a mechanism which drops the collars, detaches the halters, and brings down a stroke of a light whip--a signal which causes each well-trained horse instantly to spring to his appointed place to right or left of the pole.  An instantaneous movement simultaneously attaches the pole-chains to the collar, fastens the reins, and slips in the bit, while the other portions of the harness are similarly fastened to the engine.</p><P>While this is going on down-stairs, the beds in the dormitory overhead are jerked up, so as to turn out the sleepers, who are literally <HI REND="italics">thrown</HI>
127.sgm: into their fire-dress, with boots attached.  Up flashes the gas, and the doors are thrown open--all by the same electric current.  Straight stairs lead from the dormitories to the engine-room, but even to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:rush down these would lose a second, so slides are fixed parallel with each, and down these the firemen glide, with a velocity which emulates that of the greased lightning which was so often commended to our attention in our younger days, when our seniors despatched us on troublesome errands.</p><P>In some of the great public buildings, such as the huge Palace Hotel, there are <HI REND="italics">self-acting electric fire-alarms</HI>
127.sgm:, which, <HI REND="italics">without any human agency</HI>
127.sgm:, call the attention of the central office to any unusual heat in any part of the house--so that a fire breaking out in a store-room or cupboard, actually gives notice of its own existence.  Not content, however, with these electric warnings, the great hotels have watchmen always on patrol, whose duty it is to inspect every corner of the premises every half-hour, day and night.</p><P>The water-supply is also well attended to.  For instance, the Palace Hotel has a huge reservoir beneath the central court, and seven great tanks on the roof.  The former contains 630,000 gallons, the latter 130,000 gallons, and all are supplied by four artesian wells, capable of supplying 28,000 gallons per hour.  This water-supply is carried to every corner of the huge building by means of about fifty upright four-inch pipes of wrought-iron, reaching from the basement to the roof.  They are fed by three steam fire-pumps, and in their turn supply an endless extent of fire-hose.</p><P>So there certainly is no lack of precaution regarding this terrible source of danger; and as every district of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:town, and indeed a vast number of private houses, are in telegraphic communication with the fire department, it is evident that little time need be lost.  Indeed, what with telegraphs and telephones, the whole city is like one great room--distances are annihilated.  The sky is veiled by a perfect network of wires connecting private dwellings with business offices.  A lady has just shown me, on the wall beside her, a small instrument like a clock, the face of which is divided into sections, having reference to fire, hackney-carriage, private carriage, message-boys, &amp;c. &amp;c.; so that, by turning the magic needle to the point required, she can, without leaving her room, summon a carriage, an errand-boy, a fire-engine, or any other trifle she may require.  She tells me that this is quite a common luxury.  Surely the genii of the Arabian Nights have cast their mantle on California, and Aladdin's lantern is the common property of all her fortunate daughters!</p><P>Leaving the city, we drove some miles to see the great Golden Gate Park, which is to be the Hyde Park of San Francisco, and is already "the Drive" and "Rotten Row" for all fashionables.  It is still so new that its beauty is chiefly a thing of the future; but already it is a triumph of art and industry over an ungenial nature.  Only six years ago it was a waste of desert sand, like those rolling sandhills which extend on every side of it.</p><P>It was determined to reclaim about a thousand acres of these desolate dunes, so a large tract was enclosed and thickly planted with the hardy perennial lupine, which is indigenous to California, and, flourishing on this thirsty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:soil, grows to the size of a large bush.  When it has once taken a firm hold of the sand, it subdues it effectually, and creates a soil on which, with the aid of abundant irrigation, turf will grow.  Tens of thousands of trees have been planted, and are growing at an almost incredible rate; while the turf has been so diligently cared for, that already the wilderness is transformed into a rolling expanse of smoothest undulating lawn, brilliant with flower-beds.  The ground is admirably laid out, and promises to become a thing of ever-increasing beauty.</p><P>To me, the chief fascination lay in the pioneer lupines, which, of their own sweet will, are striving to carry on the work of reclamation, and have overspread thousands of acres of the arid shifting sands.  I had never dreamt of such wealth of flowers.  Hitherto my ideas of lupines have been derived from the little packets which, as children, we sowed so carefully in our gardens, embedding them in chopped gorse as a protection against slugs and other foes.  But here, for miles we drove through lupine scrub, each bush bearing thousands of spikes--orange, pale yellow, blue, white, lilac, or pink.  Besides these shrub lupines, all the other sorts common in English gardens grow abundantly--the large succulent blue lupine, the smaller lemon-colour variety, and all the dwarfs of every hue.</p><P>Here, then, was a glimpse of California's lavish way of doing things.  Elsewhere we drove among green pasture-hills, variegated by broad patches of the most intense orange.  Here was Californian gold indeed, glowing in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:bright sunlight.  I was puzzled by this new freak of vegetation, and marvelled what flowers had been so abundantly showered all over the green hills.  It was too deep in colour for the familiar buttercups, though these abound; so at last I had to satisfy my curiosity by a nearer inspection, and recognised that these sheets of yellow gold are all produced by the eschscholtzia, which is here known as Californian poppy.  Here and there a patch of deep blue larkspur, or the scarlet "painted brush," varied the colouring of this beautiful wild garden.</p><P>The object of our drive was to reach the cliffs over-looking the Golden Gates, which as yet I had only seen in the moonlight as we sailed through them into the Bay of San Francisco.  The title is highly metaphorical, as the headlands which from the portals of the bay are in no sense golden, or even beautiful like all the cliffs round the harbour.  They are of a dull-red colour, crowned with slopes of greenest grass.  But as a sea view, the prospect was magnificent.  The Pacific, untrue to its name, was all foam-flecked by angry waves, and huge green billows rolled in with deafening roar, and dashed in white spray against the gates.</p><P>But the fascination of the scene lay in the foreground. where herds of sea-lions<ANCHOR ID="n1-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: are for ever disporting themselves on the rocks, totally regardless of the human presence on the cliffs above, although a comfortable hotel has there been built, with a broad verandah from which all lovers of strange wild creatures can watch these to their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:hearts' content.  They are the pets of the State, happily protected by law, and no Goth dares to fire a gun in their demesne--the penalty for even firing a gun near them being a sum equal to &pound;30, while &pound;100 is the penalty for killing one.  So in fearless security these creatures, generally so shy, remain in peaceful possession of their ancestral rocks, within an hour's drive of the great city.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-12"><HI REND="italics">Otaria stelleri</HI>
127.sgm:<P>The number of the herd is variously estimated at from 100 to 300.  I do not myself see how any one can pretend to count animals which are for ever gliding in and out of the water, and are, moreover, so much alike.  They are like a crowd of black, slimy leeches, as they climb, wriggling, out of the green sea or the white surf, with fish in mouth, and lie basking on the rocks to enjoy their prey.  The hot sun soon dries them, and then they appear to be greyish-brown.  How they do bellow and roar, and turn their sleepy heads, and gape at one another, showing formidable white teeth!  Sometimes they all yelp simultaneously, like a pack of fox-hounds.  Then some old grandfather begins to roar, waking the echoes with his deep base.</p><P>Some have strongly marked individuality, and are easily recognised; so of course these have received characteristic names.  One patriarch, before whose presence all the others slink away meekly, is known as Ben Butler.  He is a huge sleek fellow, fatter than any fat sow, and is supposed to weigh about 2000lb.!  Ian Campbell says they are like great mastiffs with paralysed hind-quarters.  They certainly <HI REND="italics">are</HI>
127.sgm: very like gigantic leeches--so soft, and glossy, and black!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Sometimes they have furious fights.  They open their great mouths, and go at one another, biting viciously, and barking.  At last one is beaten, and sinks down into the waves to hide his diminished head, while the victor draws himself up the steep jagged black rock by means of his long front flippers, and having reached the highest point he can attain, he there lies basking in the sun in perfect repose.  The frivolous young seals gambol and snort, and carry on great games, while their mothers sleep peacefully, with their snouts pointing heavenward, and their heads pillowed on their own natural bolsters of fat.</p><P>Sometimes a grave old grannie curls herself up, that she may the better scratch her head with her hind-flipper--a ludicrous position, as you will know, if you have ever observed a cow scratching her nose with her hind-leg!  Besides these sea-lions, the rocks are haunted by various wild sea-birds; grey pelicans and black cormorants sit solemnly perched on the crags, while white sea-gulls circle around with shrill piercing cries, which blend with the roaring of the seals and the beating of the surf on the rocks.</p><P>This was a scene after my own heart; and as seen with the aid of my dear old opera-glasses (inseparable companions of all my wanderings), I could discern every movement and expression of each individual in the herd (though I cannot pretend to have observed the external ears which distinguish these from other seals).  Surely such a spectacle, seen from such comfortable surroundings, must be unique.  I happened, on returning here, to express <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:my delight with the scene, and some smart town-bred San Franciscan ladies looked at me with pitying wonder.  They were in the constant habit of driving to the Cliff House, but not for love of the sea-lions!</p><P>There is another group of rocks, about thirty miles from here, which is also tenanted by these creatures.  These are the Far-allones--precipitous masses of white granite.  We sailed very near them the night we came in, and could discern a multitude of dark creatures moving on the white rocks, which gleamed so coldly in the moonlight.  Their name is legion.  Happily they have such poor fur as to possess no commercial value; hence their impunity.  The gulls, which are there in myriads, are less fortunate.  Their eggs command a ready sale in the market, and countless thousands are annually carried to San Francisco, and there consumed.  The advent of the egg-collectors is gladly hailed by the lonely watchers in the Far-allone lighthouse, to whom the presence of other human beings must be a rare interest.</p><P>On our homeward way, we came by the Lone Mountain Cemetery--the great burial-ground for the city.  It takes its name from a lonely sandhill within the Roman Catholic Cemetery.  A great cross crowns the hill--a solemn symbol, visible from afar.  Now, this region is all peopled with the quiet dead, and a multitude of graves occupy the hilly ground overlooking the harbour.  It is a fresh, breezy spot, fragrant with the choicest garden flowers, which loving hands have planted round their dead, and which flourish and spread in rank luxuriance; roses, jessamine, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:honeysuckle festooning the monuments and railings, while fuchsias, geraniums, pinks, lilies, and violets run riot in their rich profusion.</p><P>This graceful consecration of flowers extends even to the names given to the winding paths; and Acacia Avenue, Lily Path, or Rose Walk are the inviting titles which distinguish different portions of God's acre.  It is a pleasant resting-place, marked by no grim formality, rather suggesting a quiet shrubbery, with graves grouped here and there in grassy glades, overshadowed by fine old ilex or "live oaks," as they are here called.  The eucalyptus, cypress, mimosa, and other trees and shrubs, have taken kindly to these once barren sandhills, and now form shady groves and rich clumps, and will, in a very few years, become stately and beautiful trees; while some palms and cactus give almost a suggestion of the tropics.  So the last home of the sleepers is an embodied idyl; flowers and sunlight, and quiet green hills overlooking the great calm haven, fading away in a hazy mist which veils the distant hills.  I think, however, that the poetry of death receives a rude shock from the very artificial treatment of the dead.  I am told that here the pure white shroud is well-nigh a thing of the past, and that the frivolities of dress are never more carefully considered than in the solemn presence of Azrael.</p><P>There is more to be said in favour of the term "casket" to describe a beautified coffin.  It reminds me of a certain family mausoleum in Scotland, whose owner always spoke of it as "his jewel-case."  He had therein enshrined four wives!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Concluding Note</HI>
127.sgm:</p><P>Progressive America objects to our old-fashioned lugubrious coffins, which are now very generally discarded in favour of highly ornamental "caskets," in which the suggestive form of a coffin is ignored.  An oblong box of uniform width is made of the most costly woods--satin-wood or polished oak--with silver mountings.  It is lined with silk or satin, and the head of the sleeper is laid on a satin pillow.</p><P>The lid is partly glazed, that all friends may be privileged to take a long last look at the dead--a doubtful boon when so cruel a tyrant as Change rules the hour; but his work is stayed for a little season by various artificial means.</p><P>These &aelig;sthetic coffins apparently rank as things of beauty, pleasant to look upon, to judge from the following account of a Chicago Industrial and Fine Art Exhibition:--</p><P>"A brilliant spectacle was presented, as the gleam of electric lamps was shed over gay costumes and richly furnished stalls; among which latter, not the least showy was that of an enterprising undertaker, prepared to gratify the most sumptuous taste in the matter of coffins.  Looking at this display of `caskets,' as they were euphemistically styled, in polished marbles and other ornamental materials, it was not surprising to hear that a common practice in the States is to send the dead to their long homes decked out in fine raiment of fashionable cut, and with moustaches waxed, and nosegays in their button-holes."</p><P>Apparently the coffin department holds its place in all exhibitions of art and industry, for a gentleman returning from the Philadelphia Exhibition told me that he had overheard two ladies discussing the exhibits, and they agreed that the Funeral Department was quite the most interesting.  Said the first, "Oh, that lovely casket of delicate blue velvet lined with pale-rose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:satin, so beautifully quilted!"  "Well," said the other, "for my part, I preferred the black velvet with crimson velvet lining.  You know crimson is so becoming to a corpse!"</p><P>While England is discussing how she can most simply dispose of her dead, and the "Economic Funeral Company" advertises its claims to the gratitude of the multitude of mourners whose grief is only embittered by the pressure of expensive ceremonial,--the undertakers of America are thriving, and vying one with another in every extravagance which can be encouraged by their sad profession.</p><P>They have a monthly magazine of their own, called `The Casket,' which has already been running for several years, and is illustrated with portraits of the leading undertakers--"The Monarchs of the Road," as they call themselves.  This periodical is the advertising medium of all the great funeral establishments, and of the inventors of various methods of embalming.  Drugs for this purpose are advertised, for the use of families which incline to domestic experiments, and full directions for use are given, and for all the ghastly processes of thus manipulating the loved remains.</p><P>With a happy consciousness that few relations would care to usurp these "professional" functions, the great establishments advertise their readiness, at any moment of day or night, to send out a competent staff to take charge of all details.  All that is required is a hint as to the "style" preferred, and the special method by which the body is to be prepared.  The director-general and his assistants will take good care that all is done in first-rate "style."</p><P>The Antiseptic Embalming Fluid is highly recommended.  "It preserves the body without destroying the identity of the features; it removes discolorations, restores the skin to its natural colour, prevents the formation of gases, and acts as a preservative in all kinds of weather without the use of ice.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>By a more revolting process, minutely detailed, the body, after being plunged into a bath of salts of alumina, is filled with a liquid, described as "The Egyptian Embalmer--a never-failing preservative."</p><P>As a matter of course, `The Casket' revels in descriptions of elaborate funerals, giving details as minute as the records of fashion in a Court Journal.  All the splendours of costly material are enlarged upon, and estimates of the sums which have been expended--which in some cases have been made to mount up to 10,000 dollars (&pound;2000)!</p><P>But it is not only this journal of death which luxuriates in such details.  Here is an extract from a New York paper on the last toilet of a lady:--</p><P>"Miss R., the deceased, was laid out in white rep silk, elegantly trimmed with white satin and very fine point-lace.  The skirt was draped with smilax and lilies of the valley.  The casket was made to order by the Stein Manufacturing Co. of Rochester, in their celebrated Princess style.  It was covered with the most delicate shade of blue silk velvet, with corners and mouldings tufted with white satin.  The inside was trimmed with white satin, and with very heavy sewing-silk and bullion fringe.  The handles were long bars covered with sewing-silk.  The casket opened at full length, the inside of the lid being tufted with white satin.  Miss R. looked very natural, more as if asleep than dead.  There was a splendid display of flowers, sent as tokens of sympathy from her many friends.  All the stands containing the flowers were covered with white, giving a general appearance of purity."</p><P>Nor is such care for personal appearance bestowed only on the young and beautiful.  Grave citizens, whose influence on their fellows has been due to far different qualities, are now consigned to the hands of "artists," who relieve the ghastly pallor of death by a judicious application of rouge, and the dead <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:man, in full evening dress, with costly studs on snowy shirt front, white gloves, and a necktie that Beau Brummel might have envied, lies in state to receive the last ceremonial visit of all his friends and acquaintance.</p><P>In further illustration of a subject which to English ears sounds so painfully artificial, I think the following passage from `The San Francisco Sunday Times' is sufficiently curious to be worth preserving:--</p><P>"`Funerals are very troublesome affairs,' said the head of a leading undertaking establishment to a `New York Mercury' reporter who accosted him on the subject, `for the reason that the mourners are never on hand, and you are kept always an hour behind time.  The only time we have things as we wish, is when we are notified to come and take charge of the remains.  Then we have all to say, and can proceed with our work without delay.'</p><P>"`How do you prepare remains generally?'</p><P>"`We first find when the body is to be buried, then place it on ice and secure the order for the coffin or casket; then on the morning or afternoon previous to the funeral, we go to the house and place the body in the casket, after first nicely dressing it, and combing the hair, and making all as favourable to the eye as possible.'</p><P>"`Suppose the person had died a violent death, or in some way the features became repulsive to the eye, what would you do?'</p><P>"`In that case we would resort to the art, or I might say the secrets, of our profession.  For instance, if the mouth could not be closed, we would sew the lips together, on the inside, or else secure them to the teeth with thread.  I can tell you of any number of curious cases I have had.  Only a few weeks ago, the sister of a well-known lady who had died a maiden, came to me and said, "I have come myself to give you the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:order for my sister's funeral, because there are some arrangements to be carried through, which she requested me to have strictly followed.  I want you to engage an artist to come to the house.  She died from the effects of consumption, and is very pale.  Her face must be made to look as natural as possible.  Her lips are blue: I want them made red.  Her suit to wear in the casket is now being finished by the dressmaker, and your female attendant must be careful about putting on the dress, because it is made to fit her as if she was in full life."</p><P>"`Well, I went to the house on Fifth Avenue the next day: my artist began his work, and when he was through, my woman attendant carefully dressed and laid out the body in the casket.  When the artist and myself entered the parlour and looked at the remains, it was wonderful!  The dress of the woman was fit to be worn by a princess as a bridal suit.  She was adorned with jewellery, and upon her head rested a wreath of lilies, while her hands were encased in white kid gloves.  Her age was forty-three years; she then looked eighteen.  Her outfit was composed of fine corded white silk, trimmed with Valenciennes lace, and looped up at the sides.'"</p><P>After revealing various other family secrets, the reporter gives some ghastly details of embalming as occasionally practised in the States.  He then goes on to quote some remarks of another well-known undertaker:--</p><P>"`I handle corpses of every kind, from those of wealthy gentlemen to those taken from the Morgue and saved from pauper's graves.  I don't do much embalming, but I have the most curious orders for furnishing some funerals.  Only a few days ago I received an order to furnish a shroud of pure white satin, scolloped about the bottom, and with silk rosettes up the centre to the neck-front, which was to be turned back so that the breast could be seen uncovered nearly to the waist.  This was for a young woman about eighteen years of age, who died <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:after a short illness.  She had not fallen away much, and still preserved unmistakable signs of having been a beautiful-looking girl while in life.  Her husband, an old Southerner, stood near her casket, and I saw him touch her face with his handkerchief.  When I approached the remains I at once noticed that her eyelashes and eyebrows had been pencilled, and her cheeks and lips painted.  The poor old fellow was wild at losing his young bride.  I thought at first she was his daughter, but at the hotel I was soon informed that she was his second wife.'</p><P>"`How do you find the business now in comparison with that of former years?'</p><P>"`People are not so lavish about flowers, but a great deal of "style" is wanted about the corpse.  Some few years back a body was seldom robed in anything but a shroud; <HI REND="italics">to-day shrouds are hardly used except by Catholics and Hebrews</HI>
127.sgm:.  Gentlemen, as a rule, are laid out in a full suit of black cloth, a white shirt, and black necktie, the hair and moustache or whiskers being arranged to suit.  I have known of instances where a dentist has been ordered to place a set of false teeth with a $20 gold plate in the mouth of a dead woman to save her looks.'</p><P>"`Is the parting scene as affecting as formerly?'</p><P>"`No, that has changed for the better.  People are becoming toned down.  Old-time screeching and crying is dying out.'"</p><P>This is indeed the unpoetical side of the picture, as seen from a professional point of view.</p><P>Extremes in all fashion generally lead to a reaction, and it would appear that funerals are no exception to this rule, for I am told that the leaders of society in New York now affect extreme simplicity, and have declared in favour of pure white shrouds and ordinary coffins.</p><P>Moreover, to so great an excess had the custom of sending flowers to the house of the dead been carried, that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:announcement of a death is now frequently accompanied by a request that friends will send no flowers.  The multitude of these ceremonial offerings had become embarrassing, and extra carriages were required to convey them to the grave.  Thus the funeral car of Mr Stewart, the famous millionaire, was followed by six carriages filled with floral offerings.  (A few days later, the poor corpse thus honoured was stolen from its grave, and has never been recovered.)</p><P>The customs which here regulate prolonged periods of mourning, would be considered sorely lugubrious in Britain.  For parents, three years of the deepest dule is requisite before any shade of lighter mourning can be sanctioned, and for brothers and sisters nearly as long a period; and any wish to join in the simplest social pleasures is deemed lamentably frivolous.</p><P>Perhaps the long mourning may be better tolerated in America, inasmuch as families are, as a rule, so much smaller than those in the mother-country.  But relations by marriage are soon disposed of, and mourning for a father or mother-in-law is a short matter.  But occasionally American free strength of mind triumphs, and, shaking off these conventional trammels, contrives to dispense with all the trappings of woe with a velocity very startling to more rigid neighbours.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>SPANISH NAMES--TRACES OF THE EARLY MISSION--SAN RAFAEL--THE COAST RANGE--REDWOOD FOREST--A CHAIN OF VOLCANOES--A PARADISE OF FLOWERS--POISON-OAK.</p><P>SAN RAFAEL, <HI REND="italics">April</HI>
127.sgm: 26, 1882.</p><P>DEAR NELL,--People may well say this is but a small world.  It is only four days since I landed in San Francisco, without the slightest expectation of seeing one "kent face," and lo! there immediately appeared a friend from Sussex, whom I now discover to be a true old Californian, a magician, who has made my way all plain.  He left me, determined to find a pleasant companion to be my escort to the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Valley.  Who should come to his house that very day but Mr David, whom I supposed to be safe in Morayshire!  It appears that he came to California a good while ago, and has been so entranced by sport and fishing, that he has never been able to tear himself away!</p><P>At last, however, he wishes to visit Canada; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:feeling that he really could not leave California without seeing the Yo&macr;-semite&acute;, he came to the town to make arrangements for so doing, and was greeted with the news of my arrival.  A few minutes later he was giving me screeds of home news, having just received long letters from several members of my family.  As a matter of course, he at once assumed all the troubles and duties of escort.  We hear that the roads to the valley <HI REND="italics">are</HI>
127.sgm: open, so we have every prospect of a delightful expedition.  Is it not a strange piece of luck to have thus "happened" on a stanch old friend of thirty years' standing, in this New World?  I am to rejoin him at San Francisco this afternoon, and make our start from thence.</p><P>I have been for two days in this pretty town of pleasant villas and gardens, surrounded with very green grassy hills.  It is one of the numerous suburbs of San Francisco, each of which is in itself a large and important town.  San Rafael, San Pablo, Saucelito, Oakland, Brooklyn, Alameda, San Leandro, San Lorenzo, San Mateo, San Bruno, San Miguel, Milbrae, Belmont, and Redwood City, are a few of the flourishing young children of this wonderfully prolific young mother.</p><P>Those I have named all lie within about an hour by steamboat or rail, and are the homes of a multitude of men whose business requires their daily presence in the crowded city, but whose wealth enables them to create most luxurious semi-country homes in a more genial climate than that of San Francisco, which is exceptionally disagreeable, as compared with that of California in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:general.  There are few days which do not ring the changes on pleasant, enticing sunshine, and treacherous, chilling sea-fogs.  These are driven down the coast by the trade-winds; but as they rarely rise above a thousand feet, the Coast Range acts as an effectual barrier for their exclusion, till they reach the Golden Gate, through which they sweep as through a funnel, and the heated air in the bay suddenly becomes clammy and chill; and the rash stranger, who had been enticed by the brilliant morning to go out without warm wraps, is conscious of piercing damp, and shivers involuntarily.  The old inhabitants tell you that it is rarely safe to sit for long at an open window, and that there are few days in the year when it is not desirable to have a fire morning and evening, though there is ample warmth <HI REND="italics">while</HI>
127.sgm: the sun shines.  They say, too, that neuralgia and rheumatism, in all their painful phases, are only too common.</p><P>I daresay you are as much astonished as I am at the multitude of saintly names in this part of the world.  They are all reminders of the old Spanish Mission, which seems to have dedicated some corner to every saint in the calendar, lest any should feel neglected!</p><P>The Jesuit Fathers found their way to Lower California in the year 1697, and established various mission stations, where they worked with considerable success for nearly a hundred years, till Charles III. of Spain decreed that even in this far country they might not dwell in peace.  So they were expelled, and their settlements were made over to the Franciscans.  Eventually these gave way to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Dominicans, who remained in exclusive possession of Lower California, the Franciscans retiring northward, marking their pathway by the saintly names sown broadcast over the land.</p><P>The members of the mission do not seem to have penetrated beyond the Sierra Nevada; at least I can only hear of one inland town having been canonised--namely, San Carlos.  Even in the great fertile San Joaquin Valley, there are very few names which suggest a Spanish origin.</p><P>But all down the coast, from San Francisco to Mexico, the strip of country between the sea and the low Coast Range is entirely given over to the saints; and you pass from Santa Clara to San Jose&acute; (which is pronounced Hozay), Santa Cruz, St Paul, St Vincent, San Benito, San Lorenzo, Santa Lucia, Santa Margarita, San Luis Obispo, San Mauelilo, Santa Rese, San Inez, Point Concepcion, Point Purissima, Jesu Maria, Santa Maria, Santa Barbara, San Sisquac, San Francisquitto, Los Angeles, Santa Monte, San Pedro, San Diego and San Diegnito, San Bernardino,--and so on <HI REND="italics">ad infinitum</HI>
127.sgm:.  All the islands are similarly dedicated to Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara, Santa Catalina, Santa Rosa, Santa Ana, Santa Clara, San Miguel, San Nicolas, San Clemente, &amp;c. &amp;c.  Among the mountains are the Sierra Sangre de Christo and Sierra Miguel; and of rivers we find Rio Virgin and Rio de los Dolores.</p><P>The preachers of the Cross found no lack of work, for there was at that time a very large Indian population throughout the whole region; and even so late as 1823, the Indians of California were estimated by various <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:authorities at upwards of 100,000.  But from the time when white men invaded the land, the aboriginal inhabitants rapidly decreased (no wonder, when they were shot down as ruthlessly as the herds of wild bison!), and the census of 1863 found only 29,000 Indians remaining.  This number is not supposed to have diminished much; but of course it is difficult to obtain an exact census of so nomadic a race.</p><P>However, to return to San Rafael.  I came here on a visit to a most hospitable Scot, a partner of my original friend.  His charming home is only about an hour's journey from San Francisco; but it involved travelling by tram, steamer, railway, and carriage--or (to express myself correctly) we had a ride in the street car, a ride in the steamship, a ride in the steam-cars, and a ride in a carriage.  If we <HI REND="italics">really</HI>
127.sgm: had occasion to ride, we should talk of "riding horseback," as a necessary distinction.  We exchanged the steamer for the train at St Quentin (yet another saint!).</p><P>It was truly pleasant to be welcomed to this cosy, home-like nest, just like an English country-house, except that the roses are here in such profusion as they rarely attain in the old country.  They climb over tall shrubs and droop in clustering masses of crimson and white, fragrant and most beautiful.  Gardening in this country must be a delight; and when I look at the almost spontaneous growth of everything here, my thoughts go back to our poor little garden in Fiji, and to all the pains expended on it for such small result in the way of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:blossom.  Here, as in Australia, all manner of plants grow happily side by side, and make no difficulty about acclimatisation.  The loquat and the lemon grow beside English oak and ivy, and the ground is carpeted with violets and lilies.</p><P>Yesterday my kind hosts had arranged a cheery picnic-party to a very pretty artificial lake at the foot of Mount Tamal Pais.  Though barely 2600 feet in height, it is the great landmark hereabouts.  It lies six miles southwest of San Rafael,--a very beautiful drive through hilly country, all spurs of the Coast Range.  In the freshness of this early spring, all the bare slopes are of the most vivid green, just the colour of young rice-fields; while the canyons are clothed with fine timber, including many trees which were to me unfamiliar.</p><P>Of the latter, one of the most abundant is the madron&tilde;a, which is peculiar to the Coast Range, and literally found nowhere else.  It is a kind of arbutus, with dark glossy foliage, and rich clusters of white blossom like tiny bells.  Its stem is of a glossy red.  The madron&tilde;a ranks as a first-class forest-tree, occasionally attaining to a height of fifty feet, and a diameter of from six to eight feet.  Its bark always retains a warm chocolate colour, very pleasant among the forest greens; and in the spring-time the tree is dear to the brown honey-bees, who find stores of treasure in its countless branches of small wax-like white blossoms.  The manzanita is another relative of the arbutus, but it flourishes throughout the State.</p><P>The Coast Range also has a monopoly of the stately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:redwood cedar,<ANCHOR ID="n2-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: which belongs exclusively to the forest belt lying within the influence of the Pacific sea-fogs.  One man's meat is said to be his neighbour's poison, and I think the proverb applies to the beautiful trees which are nourished by the damp chilling sea-mists.  Formerly many of the hills near San Francisco were clothed with the beautiful redwood; but it was found so valuable for building purposes, that the primeval forests have now entirely disappeared from the neighbourhood.  One advantage is, that it burns very slowly; so its use somewhat lessens the danger of fire.  No other tree splits so true to the grain, or is so much prized by the lumberer; none better resists the action of damp and decay.  Naturally, therefore, it is a favourite wood with the builders; and so the forests near San Francisco now exist only in the form of houses or railroad timber.  And still the work of destruction goes on, and north and south the lumberers are busy felling the beautiful growth of centuries, to be turned to common use.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-11"><HI REND="italics">Sequoia sempervirens</HI>
127.sgm:<P>I am told that these redwood forests are perhaps the most stately in the world, almost more beautiful than the Big Trees groves, and not very far behind them in size.  Many individual trees measure from 60 to 80 feet in circumference--some are found ranging from 90 to 100--and from 200 to 300 feet in height.  One has been proved to be upwards of 344 feet high--a glorious spire.  Much of the characteristic beauty of a redwood forest is attributed to the fact that it generally grows alone, not mixed with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:other trees; so that thousands of these beautiful stems are grouped like so many pillars, averaging from 8 to 12 feet in diameter, and marvellously straight and tall.  These grand cinnamon-coloured shafts lose themselves in a canopy of rich deep green, which almost hides the sky.  And no sound breaks the solemn silence but the distant muffled roar of the surf beating on the sands.</p><P>One group of these great trees, on the road between San Jose&acute; and Santa Cruz, has been converted into a quaint hotel!  Here is its description, taken from a local paper: "Imagine ten immense trees standing a few feet apart, and hollow inside; these are the hotel,--neat, breezy, and romantic.  The largest tree is 65 feet round, and contains a sitting-room.  All about this tree is a garden of flowers and evergreens.  The drawing-room is a bower made of redwood, evergreens, and madron&tilde;a branches.  For bed-chambers, there are nine great hollow trees, whitewashed or papered, and having doors cut to fit the shape of the holes.  Literature finds a place in a leaning stump, dubbed `the library.'"</p><P>Far more startling is the account given in another Californian paper, of a railway viaduct in Sonoma County.  Between the Chipper Mills and Stewart's Point, where the road crosses a deep ravine, the trees are sawed off on a level, and the roadway of rough timber is actually laid on these growing pillars.  In the centre of the ravine, two huge redwood trees standing side by side have been cut off 75 feet above the ground, and form substantial central <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:columns for the support of the railway, across which heavily laden timber-cars pass securely.</p><P>A very small number of redwoods have been found in Oregon; otherwise the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia sempervirens</HI>
127.sgm: (like its big brother, the majestic <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
127.sgm:, which English people so obstinately and unreasonably persist in calling <HI REND="italics">Wellingtonia</HI>
127.sgm:, to the just annoyance of the Americans) is essentially and exclusively Californian,--the former refusing to live anywhere save on the Coast Range, the latter equally rigid in its allegiance to the Sierra Nevada.  Of course I allude to the natural habit of these trees.  The multitude of flourishing young specimens now growing in Britain and elsewhere, prove their willingness to live in other lands; but many a long century will elapse ere these young generations can attain to even the same character as their noble ancestors.</p><P>I do not know whether it is merely an ingenious derivation or a fact, that California owes its name to the pine-forests which form so marked a characteristic both of its shores and mountains.  The theory rests on the Spanish word for resin being <HI REND="italics">colofonia</HI>
127.sgm:; and the idea is, that the State may have been so named by the early Spanish missionaries.  Another suggestion is, that the name was derived from <HI REND="italics">caliente fornalo</HI>
127.sgm:, a heated furnace, in allusion to the blazing heat of the summer.</p><P>It really is pathetic to hear of the wholesale destruction of these grand forests, which year by year are mowed down wholesale by the lumberers--men whose one thought in connection with trees is, how many feet of timber they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:will yield.  A good redwood forest yields about 800,000 feet to the acre; but one large tree, eighteen feet in diameter, will give 180,000 feet.</p><P>Some years ago, a tremendous storm flooded the rivers in Northern California, and a vast number of huge logs were carried out to sea for a distance of 150 miles, greatly to the peril of ships, as you can well imagine, seeing that they averaged from 120 to 210 feet in length, and some were ten feet in diameter.  Many of these poor battered logs drifted back to the homes of their youth--the shores of the forests whence they were hewn, on the Klamath and Redwood rivers; but many were cast ashore near Crescent City, where they were turned to good account.  Sometimes great logs thus drift far, far away from land, and the ocean-currents sweep them onward till they reach some distant shore, and are hailed as an invaluable prize by islanders to whom such giant stems are unknown.  Thus, when Vancouver visited Kauai, the northernmost of the Hawaiian Isles, he noticed a very handsome canoe upwards of sixty feet in length, which had been made from an American pine-log, that had drifted ashore in a perfectly sound condition.  The natives had kept the log unwrought for a long time, hoping that the tide might bring them a second, and enable them to make such a double canoe as would have been the envy of the whole group; but for this they had waited in vain.</p><P>I am strongly advised not to leave this coast till I have seen some of these northern forests, in Mendocino and Humboldt counties, and still farther north in Oregon, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:where there is a warm damp tract of country, favourable to a most luxuriant growth of all green things, from ferns to forest-trees.  Damp it may well be, as it is said to rain there for thirteen months in the year!</p><P>I am told that <HI REND="italics">if</HI>
127.sgm: I care for beautiful scenery, I must at least sail up the great Columbia river, which divides Oregon from Washington territory, and (passing by Portland and Fort Vancouver) stay a while at The Dalles--a dry and dusty region--where the broad beautiful river crosses the Cascade Range; a chain which, though green and pleasant to the eye, is one great mass of lava and basalt, on which are built up a series of grand volcanic cones, one of which, Mount Hood, lies close to The Dalles.  It is upwards of 12,000 feet in height--a perfect cone, generally robed in snow,--a thing of glittering light, appearing like a vision far above the clouds.</p><P>On the other side of the river, stretching away to the north towards Puget Sound, stand a whole regiment of these great cones--like sentinels guarding the range.  Of these the principal are Mout Rainier, St Helen's, Mount Baker, and Mount Jackson.  To the south lie Mount Jefferson, Diamond Peak, Black Bute, and, southernmost and grandest of all, Mount Shasta, a lonely, majestic mount, crowned with eternal snow, and towering from a broad base of dark pine-forest to a height upward of 14,000 feet.</p><P>Certainly the expedition to the Columbia river sounds tempting, and would be a very simple one--all straight sailing, or rather steaming, as regular steamers are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:constantly plying along the coast.  However, for the present, my face is steadfastly turned towards the Granite Crags of Yo&macr;-semite&acute;, and thence to the Fire Fountains of Hawaii.</p><P>The redwoods have led me into a long digression.  I meant to tell you of the amazing profusion of wild flowers, which make this country like a dream of fairyland.  Nowhere have I seen anything approaching to it, though I fancy that the plains of Morocco in spring must be of much the same character.  Here, the meadows and the hills alike are literally a blaze of scarlet, gold, and deep blue, from the sheets of what we only know as garden flowers.  In the deepest ravines flames of vivid colour shine through the gloom, lighting up every dark chasm with bright-hued blossoms, such as we cultivate carefully in greenhouses.  Here they grow spontaneously, and look comfortable and quite at their ease.  Some are on a magnified scale as compared with their garden cousins; others, again, are somewhat stunted, but have a wild charm of their own, which to me is ever lacking in artificially educated plants.</p><P>Yesterday's expedition was one long succession of delightful surprises, as each step revealed some dear old friend snugly at home.  We collected treasures till we could carry no more.  I gathered specimens of fully a hundred different kinds, though as to giving you their names, that is quite beyond me.  I am told that in the course of a Californian summer, six hundred different flowers can be collected.  But, just to give you a general idea of the sort of thing, there are, first of all, the various <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:lupines I have already mentioned as covering the sand-hills for miles, with a dense carpet of delicate colour--pink, white, and blue, lemon and gold.</p><P>Next come the larkspurs, deep blue or pure scarlet; the pale blue nemophila, and the large white variety with purple spots; scarlet columbine, sweetly perfumed musk, yellow borage, scarlet lychnis, yellow tulips; pentstemons, blue and scarlet; Indian pink, heart's-ease, blue forget-me-not, crimson and scarlet "painted cup," dwarf sunflower, saxifrage, southernwood, and a most graceful kind of fritillaria, bearing a cluster of six or eight bells on one stem.</p><P>I saw some blossoms of the lovely <HI REND="italics">Trillium album</HI>
127.sgm: with its three snowy petals, also a kind of starry clematis trailing over the brushwood.  In the open glades the eschscholtzia lies in broad patches of glowing orange on the park-like slopes.  Of the humbler blossoms, one new to me is a lovely little yellow flower, with a brown heart like a pansy.  It is called the Californian violet--a variety, I suppose, of the dog-tooth.  Never before have I seen Tennyson's words so well illustrated, for truly <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"You scarce could see the grass for flowers."<LB></HI>
127.sgm:</p><P>Along the sedgy water-courses I found bright blue dwarf iris, and delicate yellow mimulus, golden ranunculus, and myosotis.  In short, lovely darlings without number.</p><P>It was a great delight to me to find the jovial round face of the familiar sunflower beaming a cheery welcome to its Californian birthplace, but we only saw a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:blossoms.  I was told, however, that there are tracts in the mountain districts to the south where, for miles and miles, successive ridges gleam like gold, owing to the myriads of these gigantic yellow daisies--all of the dwarf kind, and so closely packed that there is no green to be seen, only a sheet of saffron hue.  The same glory over-spreads southern Colorado, where purple asters also abound; and both grow so freely, that they even spring up from the turf sods with which the miners roof their huts, giving quite an &aelig;sthetic touch to the dingy camps.</p><P>Among the flowering shrubs I chiefly noticed the ceanothus or Californian lilac, with its scented spikes of pale-blue blossom; while here, as elsewhere, the wild honeysuckle excelled all else in fragrance, its trails mingling with those of perfumed wild roses, which festooned the scrub, and sometimes tempted us into danger.</p><P>For even in this floral paradise mischief lurks, under the guise of a very innocent-looking prickly oak, whose young scarlet leaves are attractive enough to tempt the unwary hand to pluck them--a rash deed, of which only a new-comer could be guilty, for all Californians shrink instinctively from the treacherous poison-oak,<ANCHOR ID="n2-12"></ANCHOR>
127.sgm: which, with good reason, they regard with the utmost horror.  It is the upas-tree of this region.  Many people are utterly prostrated by merely breathing too near it.  I suppose it gives forth some subtle exhalation which, to sensitive constitutions, really is poisonous.  Certainly some persons are more readily affected than others; for whereas with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:many the slightest scratch from one of its prickly leaves produces boils and sores, very difficult to cure, others, finding themselves unawares in a thicket of the dreaded plant, have come home in fear and trembling, supposing they must assuredly be poisoned, and yet have felt no harm.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-12"><HI REND="italics">Rhus toxicodendron</HI>
127.sgm:<P>One thing certain is, that it is most poisonous in spring, when the milky sap is rising, and that if it comes in contact with broken skin, any bruise or cut, mischief is almost inevitable.  Like that of the opium poppy, this sap, when fresh, is pure white, but becomes black on exposure to the air.  Every one seems inspired with a charitable wish to save the new-comer from making this agonising discovery for himself--and many a kind warning has already been given me on this subject.  This dangerous little shrub is a scraggy bush, of parasitic habit, inclined to cling like ivy to rocks and trees.  It is a member of the Sumach family, and bears a leaf something between a bramble and a holly, but in no wise resembling an oak.</p><P>Like most other things, it is capable of being turned to good uses; and I am told that to the skilful hom&oelig;opathic herbalist it yields a tincture valuable for sprains and rheumatism, and even useful in paralysis.</p><P>In exploring the bush, I was reminded of California's tendency to large growth by the enormous size of the gall-apples on the common oaks.  I gathered a considerable number as curiosities, each as large as a goodly apple!</p><P>When we had gathered flowers to our hearts' content, and watched the blue jays and squirrels darting about, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:were ready to enjoy a capital luncheon spread under the trees, on the green turf; after which some went fishing on the large artificial lake,--which is, I believe, the reservoir for the use of San Rafael,--and the others walked round it, still in search of new flowers.  We diverged a little, to experience the new sensation of hearing and talking through a telephone with people at San Rafael, distant eight miles.  Then came the boiling of the kettle, and a cheery tea, followed by a delightful drive home and a pleasant evening.</p><P>This morning I was up at daybreak to write to you, that I may post this letter before starting for "The Valley."  It is 7 A.M., and almost time for breakfast.  Mine host, being a busy man, must make up for living so far from his work by leaving home betimes.</p><P>P.S.-- <HI REND="italics">San Francisco</HI>
127.sgm:.--We returned here about 9 A.M.; and as we are not to start till 3.30, Mr David suggested that we should fill up the time by a visit to Woodward's Gardens, which are a combination of zoological and botanical gardens, gymnasium, skating-rink, museum, and anything else you can think of.  To me the chief points of interest lay in the aquarium, where there is a charming fish with eyes like two large brass beads, and another with fleshy spikes all round his mouth.  Several large tanks are occupied by sea-lions, captured at the Far-allones, and bought by weight, at the rate of three shillings (75 cents) per lb.!</p><P>The largest has spent seven years in the gardens.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Captivity seems to agree with him, as he now weighs upwards of a ton!  We watched him feeding, and felt convinced that he took a malicious pleasure in splashing the rudely staring multitude, including ourselves.</p><P>Now good-bye.  We are just ready to start.--Your loving sister,<HSEP>C. F. G. C.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>START FOR THE SIERRA NEVADA--THE GREAT SAN JOAQUIN AND SACRAMENTO VALLEYS--WHOLESALE FARMING-ORCHARDS--MERCED--HORNITOS--PAH-UTE INDIANS--MARIPOSA VALLEY--CLARKE'S RANCH.</p><P>CLARKE'S RANCH,</p><P>NEAR THE MARIPOSA BIG TREES,</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday Evening, April</HI>
127.sgm: 28.</p><P>WE arrived here this afternoon, having done more than "a Sabbath-day's journey," in that we travelled from sunrise till 4 P.M. ere we reached this haven of rest in the midst of a beautiful forest.  We have had a magnificent drive, and found comfortable quarters awaiting us here in a cosy group of one-storeyed houses, with separate cottages for bedrooms--everything clean and pleasant, kind people, and none of the stiffness and <HI REND="italics">insouciance</HI>
127.sgm: of a regular hotel.</p><P>We are now 6000 feet nearer heaven than when I last wrote to you, and are fairly on the Sierras, which close us in to-night, and look down on us from above the tree-tops.  I have just been watching a glorious sunset.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:The tall pines stood out clear against the golden light like pyramids of burnished ebony; and long after the evening shadows had enfolded this peaceful homestead, the snowy peaks caught the last rays of the vanished sun, and towered, glittering, as if suspended in mid-air far above the mellow mist.</p><P>Then a clattering of hoofs announced the approach of a troop of horses and mules driven in from their forest pastures to their night quarters in the corral, to be ready for our use in the early morning.</p><P>Now it is so chilly that I am delighted to find a blazing fire of good pine-logs--pitch-pine I think they are called; anyhow, they burn cheerily, especially when a resinous knot blazes up with a bright clear flame.</p><P>I must tell you all about our journey so far.  As you know, we left San Francisco on Friday afternoon.  First we drove to the Oakland ferry, and a large steamer took us across the Bay of San Francisco to Oakland, which is one of the gigantic city's great babies--in itself a city of pleasant villas, which already numbers about 50,000 inhabitants, 10,000 of whom are computed to cross the ferry daily by the magnificent steamers which ply to and fro every half-hour.</p><P>It must be rather inconvenient for the San Franciscans always to have this break at the beginning or end of a journey; but everything is arranged like clockwork to facilitate travel.  For instance, a Baggage Transfer Company took possession of our luggage at the hotel, and restored it safely on our leaving the train.  I believe that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:freight-cars are run bodily across the ferry; and a huge boat is now being built which will carry twenty such vans, and enough cattle to load twenty more, at each crossing.</p><P>This was my first experience of an American railway, so of course everything was novel, beginning with the engines, with their huge chimneys to allow of burning wood, and also the "cow-catchers" or projecting fence of iron bars, which is intended to sweep wandering cattle off the line--"varra awkward for the cow!"</p><P>Instead of carriages divided into compartments, as in England, the cars are very long, like a church aisle, with about a dozen seats--each fitted for two persons--on either side of a middle passage, along which any one who chooses may wander from one end of the train to the other,--a privilege of which so many persons take advantage, that they seem to be for ever passing and repassing, slamming doors, &amp;c.  Ladies go to the fountain to drink iced water, which is supplied freely in all carriages; gentlemen pass to and from the smoking-carriage; and men selling cigars, books, newspapers, fruit, and sweetmeats, endeavour to find customers among the passengers.</p><P>This extreme publicity doubtless has its advantages, in preventing any possibility of danger from bad or mad companions; nevertheless, I think a comfortable corner, in the seclusion of a luxurious English carriage, is preferable to even the much-vaunted Pullman cars, in which, as in the ordinary cars, you must perforce sit up all day without any support for weary head and shoulders.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:height of luxury is attained in the drawing-room car, where each passenger is provided with a comfortable arm-chair, which, though a fixture, is constructed so as to turn in every direction.</p><P>The railway carried us through the great San Joaquin Valley as far as Merced, a distance of 150 miles.  As this may not convey very much to your mind, I may as well explain the lie of the land.</p><P>This grand State may be roughly described as a magnificent basin, encompassed on the right hand and on the left by mighty mountain-barriers.  On the west, the low Coast Range runs parallel with the shores of the Pacific, while on the east towers the glorious Sierras, crowned with everlasting snows--a true Alpine range--in which upwards of a hundred peaks average 13,000 feet in height, while Mount Whitney, one of the southernmost points, attains nearly 15,000 feet.</p><P>The Coast Range only averages about 4000 feet, and its highest peaks are about 8000.  The two ranges run parallel for a distance of 500 miles, then converge, both at the northern and southern extremities, thus enclosing the wide tract of level land which lies between these mountain-ramparts, and forming one vast fertile valley.This is watered by two majestic rivers, which rise among the blended spuurs of the two ranges--the San Joaquin river in the south, and the Sacramento river, at the base of Mount Shasta, in the north.  The San Joaquin flows northward, and the Sacramento southward, each receiving a multitude of tributaries.  These two grand streams meet half-way in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the Great Valley, and together flow into the Bay of San Francisco, and thence through the Golden Gates to the Pacific.</p><P>From these rivers the northern half of the valley receives its name of Sacramento, and the southern half that of San Joaquin.  Each of these valleys is on so gigantic a scale that the eye receives only the impression of a vast plain bounded by distant hills.  Each is about 250 miles long by forty in width,--an Elysium for farmers, where the fertile soil asks neither for water nor manure (here called fertilisers)--at least this is true as regards the northern valley; but in the central and southern region, where the rainfall is infinitesimal (in some places amounting only to from two to four inches in a year), artificial irrigation is found to be a necessity, and every spring and stream must be treated as a feeder for innumerable canals and ducts, which shall transform the parched and thirsty land into the richest green fields.</p><P>I am told that Sacramento Valley contains five million acres of arable land, which, however, produces heavy crops even in the driest years, and never needs irrigation.  In proof of this,the case is cited of a year of great drought, notwithstanding which the oats (in fields of 1000 acres) grew so rank as to reach far above the head of an average man.  The climate of Sacramento is mild, but winter has frost and occasional snow; whereas San Joaquin is rarely touched by frost, and the southern extremity of the valley is wellnigh tropical.  Nevertheless it is necessary to wrap up young orange and lemon trees in thick <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:coverings of straw as a protection against possible autumnal frosts.</p><P>It is reckoned that (including the fertile foot-hills and small valleys to the south) San Joaquin possesses ten million acres of excellent arable land, of which scarcely one-tenth is as yet under cultivation, though many vast farms are already established, and some men hold tracts of 100,000 acres on lease from the State, all laid out in wheat.</p><P>One firm (Messrs Haggin, Carr, &amp; Tevis) own 400,000 acres near Bakersfield, on the Kern river.  They are said to have acquired this vast tract for a very trifling sum, as being an arid desert; but by the magic of irrigation they have already transformed much of it into fertile land, and now let it out on short lease in tracts of several hundred acres to small farmers, several of whom sometimes club to rent and work a tract in partnership.  The owners supply the tenants with a dwelling of some sort, abundant milk, and the use of an artesian well, and receive one-third of the crops as their rent.  In harvest-time this great firm employ about 700 labourers, to work agricultural machinery of every conceivable variety.  They started one gigantic plough, which was to cut a furrow five feet wide by four deep, and was to be drawn by a whole herd of oxen: this, however, was found to be too large for practical use even in California!</p><P>Wheat-fields of from 1000 to 5000 acres are common, but occasionally a man of large ideas determines to outvie his fellows, so he makes one colossal field of many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:thousand acres (I have heard of one field of 40,000 acres!).  Of course this is considered rather speculative, as the failure of one such crop would probably involve ruin.  But this great wheat-plain is exposed to comparatively few risks in this perfect climate.</p><P>I only wonder that half our farmers do not emigrate and settle here, instead of struggling year after year with our fickle skies.  Here all moves as if by clockwork.  In the beginning of December the land is just scratched over by gang-ploughs, which consist of six or eight ploughshares fastened to a strong wooden framework, drawn by eight horses.  Its work is very superficial, merely turning over the upper soil.  These ploughs have no handles, for the ploughman merely guides the team, and the ploughs follow.  In front of them is fastened a seed-sower, which scatters the grain, and the plough lightly covers it.  One such implement ploughs and sows ten acres a-day.</p><P>But on heavy soil, where deeper ploughing is necessary, a larger team is attached to fewer ploughshares, and gets over less ground.  A separate machine is then employed to sow the grain, scattering it forty or fifty feet, and getting over 100 acres a-day.  After this the ground is harrowed, and now (in the end of April) the crop is well grown, and the country is all one sheet of the loveliest green.  Much of this wheat and barley has been sown for present use as fodder, or for hay, and is now being cut; and the same ground will, in the end of June, be planted with maize, and will yield a second heavy crop, sometimes (especially if the land is irrigated) growing to a height of eighteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:feet, and yielding ninety bushels to the acre, in the form of immense corn-cobs.</p><P>If, instead of cutting the wheat green, it is left to ripen, it is fit for harvest by the end of May; and as there is no rain after April, during the whole harvest season the farmer has no anxiety, but works at his leisure, requiring no barns or granaries, nor fearing any injury to his grain from exposure to weather.  With the aid of a machine called a "header," the wheat-heads are cut off on the field, and the straw is left piled in stacks.  Three of these "headers," escorted by nine waggons to collect the heads, are worked by eighty horses and a couple of dozen men, and can easily go over 150 acres in a day.  Sharp harvesting!</p><P>The grain is immediately threshed on the spot, and securely sacked; and the sacks lie in heaps in the open field, safe from all molestation, till the farmer finds leisure to remove them to the railroad, which is now open to the southern extremity of the Great Valley, and carries its golden crops to San Francisco, whence California's surplus goes forth to feed the nations of the world.</p><P>The crop having been thus secured, the field is next lightly ploughed over, only to a depth of about theree inches, just to turn in the dropped grain.  Perhaps a little more is added, and ere long a "volunteer crop" springs up, which is even more profitable than the first, having cost less.</p><P>Most of these particulars, and many more which I can-not recollect, were given me by a most comfortable-looking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:farmer, who was our travelling companion as far as Merced, up to which point we were passing through a corner of the vast wheat-field, which runs north and south for a distance of about 600 miles.  Throughout a considerable part of that wide expanse not a fence exists, except those running beside the railway, to keep off the cattle, which are turned loose to graze on the stubble after harvest.  Here and there are scattered small farmsteads--homes of men who cultivate from 20,000 to 40,000 acres of this great wheat-plain.</p><P>My friend the jovial Californian farmer has land in the south, and says there is no such place in the world for a young fellow to settle, provided he is sent out to the special care of some experienced person, who can save him from buying his wit too dear.  I thought of all "our boys," and for their benefit treasured the words of wisdom which he was so ready to impart.<ANCHOR ID="n3-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: All Californians seem to delight in giving statistics, by which to impress on one's mind the vastness of every detail.  They are proud of their big country, as well they may be.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-11">I have, however, deemed it advisable to add various details of more recent progress.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Years ago some one summed up the creed of the West in one clause--namely, belief in a Future State, that State being California!  Now it is no longer a matter for faith, but a gigantic present reality, since her wheat-fields already supply the markets of Britain and Australia, and many another land.</p><P>Just imagine that this San Joaquin Valley alone has an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:area of 24,000 square miles of fertile soil, all of which was, till recently, given over to cattle and horses--rich pasturelands for vast herds.  Multitudes of "cattle-kings" thus amassed wealth without owning one acre.</p><P>Now, however, this old order changeth, and small farmers (a class known as <HI REND="italics">pre-emptors</HI>
127.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n3-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: and hateful to the cattle - kings) are allowed by Government to pick out desirable tracts of 160 acres wherever they please, provided they at once settle on the spot and cultivate it.  Many such small patches united, soon change the pasturelands to broad wheat-fields; and so the great cattle-owners, who have heretofore reigned supreme, and fed their countless herds at large, though without any definite right to do so, must now either herd their flocks so as to prevent their trespassing on unfenced farms, or else drive them farther south into the mountain districts.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-12">The <HI REND="italics">pre-emptor</HI>
127.sgm:<P>Practically, however, it is found so impossible to enforce these conditions, that most farmers are driven to fencing in their lands, as their only sure protection.  The immense firm whom I mentioned as woning 400,000 acres, have thus expended &pound;100,000!  Pretty well for one item of outlay!</p><P>Nor can it be supposed that the <HI REND="italics">pre-emptors</HI>
127.sgm: are always <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:allowed to take up their selected ground in peace.  Many a hard struggle has there been on this subject.  As a matter of course, the best lands, commanding good water-springs and streams, were the very first to be taken up, and the fortunate possessors jealously guard their water-rights; nevertheless, even these find that the wide, shallow Californian rivers cannot be relied on for a permanent water-supply, as many wholly dry up in summer, so that, in common with their less fortunate neighbours, they find the question of artificial irrigation a very serious one.  In the last few years canals have been dug in all directions; and though this systematic irrigation is as yet only in its infancy, it is calculated that already upwards of 3000 miles of canals have been made in various parts of California.</p><P>Any land thus supplied rises enormously in value, and in Fresno county, lots of twenty acres are offered for sale at &pound;10 per acre, the purchaser paying an annual water-rate of &pound;2, 10s. for the use of as much water as he chooses to lead over his land from the main ditch.  The price sounds high, but the returns amply repay it.</p><P>To those who are content to take the thirsty land as it stands, and make their own arrangements for irrigation, millions of acres are now offered by Government, at a low price, to induce settlers to cultivate it.  It is, however, to be feared that in many instances the new-comer may find the water question a really serious difficulty, possession being, in such cases, something more than nine points of the law--in truth, a most stubborn fact, and one which has given rise to some serious fights.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Nevertheless, when I think of the toil which I have seen expended on clearing even a corner of a Highland farm to yield a miserable crop of oats, which might, as likely as not, have to be cut green in October, it sounds too good to be true, to know that here is rich soil, which needs no clearing of brushwood or drawing of stumps, no costly buildings, no barns, no storing even of fodder, for a quarter of an acre devoted to beets will feed two cows for a whole year, and an acre of <HI REND="italics">alfalfa--i.e.</HI>
127.sgm:, Chillian clover--will support ten sheep all the year round.</p><P>A quarter of an acre of alfalfa will yield sufficienty hay to keep a cow.  One sowing of this clover lasts for twenty years, and yields very heavy crops.  Its roots pierce the soil till they reach water, and if the land is irrigated, it annually yields fifteen tons to the acre, being ready for cutting six times a-year!</p><P>Equally precious is the native grass, <HI REND="italics">alfilleria</HI>
127.sgm:, which is said to be the finest known food for cattle.  The soil has only to be ploughed five inches deep, and, as if by magic, the land is clothed knee-deep in rich succulent grass, whereon the flocks and herds fatten and rejoice.</p><P>Does not the thought of starting a dairy farm in such a country strike you as a favourable opening for some of the rising generation?</p><P>Hardy people, accustomed to cold northern winters, declare that the climate of the south is so mild that fire is only necessary for cooking; but chilly folk crave a little artificial warmth both morning and evening.  The little firewood required will, however, grow of itself in the farm <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:fences, which are merely sticks of sycamore, eucalyptus, and willow or cotton-wood.  These being stuck in the earth in December, at once take root, and in the second year supply sufficient firewood for the kitchen.  The eucalyptus grows from ten to fifteen feet in a year, and in the course of eight years, trees have been known to attain seventy-five feet in height, and four feet in diameter.</p><P>Everything else grows in proportion.  A peach-orchard bears in the second year after planting; apples bear the third year, and yield a crop in five; while vines bear rich clusters of grapes the very same year that they are planted as cuttings.  After two and a half years they yield five tons of grapes to the acre, and after five years the annual crop is ten tons to the acre, and the average market-price &pound;4 to the ton.</p><P>Apparently the best paying farms, and certainly the most attractive as homes, are those which grow a little of everything; and while the household is abundantly supplied with all good things, the surplus of mixed produce finds a ready market in the omnivorous capital.  My jovial friend had tried this himself, and found it answer, so now he recommends it to others.  You can bear it in mind as a useful hint for some one or other.</p><P>Well, to return to our journey.</p><P>It was 10 P.M. ere we reached Merced, where we left the railway.  We slept at a good hotel close to the station, which bears the name of El Capitan, in honour of a mighty granite crag in the Valley. The house was very full on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:account of a ball, which was kept up most of the night, and somewhat disturbed my slumbers.</p><P>We were all ready for breakfast at six, when I had a pleasant and most unexpected meeting with an old friend from whom I parted three years ago in the coffee districts of Ceylon.  He was just returning from the Valley, having been its first visitor this spring.  A large open coach was waiting for us--fitted, said the proprietor, to hold twelve people and any amount of luggage.  The fitness proved a tight fit, and supremely uncomfortable; but, like good travellers, we all made the best of it.</p><P>Seeing our baggage lying in the dust, Mr David, with marked politeness, requested the conductor to have it stowed away; whereupon the latter, also most politely, turned to an exceedingly shabby-looking hanger-on, saying, "Mr Brown, will you be kind enough to hand up <HI REND="italics">that man's</HI>
127.sgm: beggage;" whereupon Mr David told me of a gentleman who had said to a ragged, wretched-looking man, that he would give him two dollars if he would carry his portmanteau.  "You will?" said the man; "I will give you an ounce [gold dust] to see you do it yourself!" which he immediately did.</p><P>We were particularly fortunate in the fellow-passengers who shared our section of the coach, and with whom we had already commenced a pleasant acquaintance.  One is a naval officer, in command of one of her Majesty's ships; the other a French naturalist and sportsman, who has lived in Cashmere for the last twelve years.</p><P>With a team of six good horses, we rattled over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:ground, and tried to forget how we were being bumped and shaken, and to think only of the interests around us.  When we escaped from the monotonous wheat-fields of civilisation, California was herself again--free, beautiful, wildly luxuriant; broad natural meadows, and gently undulating hills, all clothed in the fresh verdure of this early spring-time.  The rich tall grass is of a peculiarly lovely light green, like reflected sunlight; you really envy the happy cattle which luxuriate in such pastures.  And this exquisite groundwork blends in one harmonious glow the masses of brilliant scarlet and gold, crimson, purple, and blue, which are freely scattered on every side, as one flower or another has gained the mastery.</p><P>Now you pass a broad patch of yellow and orange, where the eschscholtzia reigns alone; then a belt of richest blue marks a colony of larkspurs; then comes a tract where a quaint scarlet brush divides the land with a daisy like white flower; next a field of lupines: but all are embedded in the same delicate soft green, and to the eye appears smooth as a carefully tended lawn inlaid with flower-beds, though in truth both grasses and blossoms are growing in rank luxuriance, and the cattle stand more than knee-deep in these delightful dainties.</p><P>We halted for luncheon at Hornitos, at a house kept by a cheery couple from Glasgow, Macdougal by name--hospitable and friendly.  Everything was very clean and good, and we were thankful to rest our battered bones, ere starting again to complete our twelve hours of violent shaking and jolting over loose stones, and roads not yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:repaired after their winter's wear, with holes here, and rocks there, and general bumping everywhere.  We tried all possible devices to steady ourselves, and to avoid concussion of the spine, which really sometimes appeared inevitable.  As it is, we have escaped with moderate bruises and contusions!</p><P>The afternoon drive was altogether beautiful, up hill and down, yet ever gaining ground, winding round about among the foot-hills, which in places are clothed with <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
127.sgm: (the dense brushwood which includes so many flowering shrubs), and elsewhere are grassy and park-like, adorned with scattered groups of noble live-oak and buckeye, which, being interpreted, are ilex and Californian horse-chestnut.  And far and near, the grassy slopes were tinged with rainbow-hues, purple and blue and yellow; deep gold and crimson and scarlet, where the bright sunlight played on banks of wild flowers.</p><P>My attention was called to a curious little pine, scarcely recognised as such,<ANCHOR ID="n3-13">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: which grows abundantly in that district, and which, though not ornamental, is valuable to the Indians, on account of its bearing edible nuts, which they collect in autumn as part of their scanty winter store.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-13"><HI REND="italics">Pinus sabiniana</HI>
127.sgm:<P>We have seen two or three parties of Pah ute Indians, and have not been impressed with any admiration for these, the old lords of California.  Some of the men were dressed in robes of rabbit-skin of a very peculiar manufacture.  Instead of whole skins being stitched together, as in preparing an opossum rug, or an ermine or squirrel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:cloak, these rabbit-hides are cut into narrow strips as soon as the animal has been skinned, the fur being left on.</p><P>Several of these strips are sewed together, to make up the length required for the cloak.  Each strip is then twisted till it is simply a fur rope.  These are woven together by means of long threads of wild hemp, or sinews of animals, or strips of willow bark, forming a sort of mingled material, in which the fur ropes act as "woof," and the hemp, or bark, is the "warp."  Perhaps it would be more accurate to describe these curious productions as being a sort of network, inasmuch as the texture is so very coarse that you can pass your fingers through it at any point; at least, so I am told.  I should be exceedingly sorry to experimentalise!</p><P>It must require a good deal of patience and trouble to manufacture one of these very unpleasant-looking garments; but once made, they are very durable, and stand any amount of wear and tear.  They are the handiwork of the squaws, who, however, are apparently not allowed to wear such precious robes, but are generally wrapped in dirty blankets, while the fur robes adorn the braves, who do their part by catching the rabbits.</p><P>This they do by netting, on a very large scale.  They prepare exceedingly long narrow nets, made of wild hemp or willow bark.  These are set in the form of a great V right across some favourable feeding-ground, if possible in a pass or valley.  The nets are set on the same principle as a seine for fish; the lower side is weighted, while the upper edge is upheld by sticks.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>The favourite season for these rabbit-drives is the late autumn or early winter, when the first light snow has fallen.  The nets being spread, two or three Indians remain on guard, while the others--men, women, and children--steal silently away, so quietly as not to disturb the ground.  So they proceed for several miles.</p><P>Then forming themselves into a large semicircle, they return towards the trap, shouting and yelling, beating the bushes, and waving their blankets.  The poor startled rabbits, greatly alarmed by this Pandemonium, scamper off towards the net, where the other Indians lie concealed; these suddenly start up with a wild yell, and so bewilder the terrified creatures, that they rush straight at the net, which is so coarsely woven as to let their heads well through.  And thus the poor conies are held prisoners till their enemies arrive and secure them.</p><P>Then follows a great feast, and abundant material is provided for the manufacture of many robes.  Indeed I am told that about 1000 rabbits have sometimes been captured in this way in one big drive.</p><P>The Indians also wage war on the large grey ground squirrels, which dig holes in the earth, burrowing like rabbits.  They are pretty animals, with a very large brush, and are said to be very good eating.</p><P>It was near sunset before we reached Mariposa Valley, which, in the old mining days, was a large settlement--a real gold-digger's town--but now has dwindled down to a mere village.  The hotel was very full, but every one was most civil and obliging and quarters were found for us, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:We were too tired to be particular.  After all, we had only travelled fifty miles since morning; but then twelve hours of incessant and violent tossing on the most angular of knife-board seats is a weariness altogether independent of mileage--and our route was all up and down hill, which gave us a chance of walking a good deal.</p><P>You can fancy nothing more "disjaskit" than a deserted mining town, with its desolate tumble-down shanties, once crowded with a mixed multitude of all nations, keen energetic men, whose whole longings centred in gold--the precious gold they hoped to extract from the Mariposa quartz-mines, which to so many proved a snare and a delusion.  This was one of the famous gold-districts which passed through many vicissitudes; and the name of Mount Bullion still clings to one high summit, which was pointed out to us yesterday as we came through Bear Valley.</p><P>So these now silent forests once teemed with eager life, and passionate hopes and fears--and it all proved vanity and vexation of spirit: so the miners forsook these diggings, and went in search of more remunerative fields; and the wise among them turned their pickaxes into gang-ploughs, and reaped golden crops from the great wheat-fields, and grew richer and happier far than their pals who had "happened" on big nuggets, and then gambled them away, till they were left empty-handed, to begin life afresh.</p><P>This morning we made a very early start from Mariposa (which, by the way, I am told is the Spanish for a "butterfly").  Our road lay through more beautiful scenery, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the jolting and the bumping were even more trying to our aching bones than they were yesterday; and we were thankful for an hour's respite when the coach pulled up for luncheon at a very clean little inn, kept by a tidy, pleasant couple, whose Cornish accent was at once detected by our naval friend, and great was their delight when they recognised in him a son of their old squire in Cornwall!  They had much to tell and to hear in this tantalising short interview; but we had still a long drive before us, so had to be up and away.</p><P>At last we entered the true forest-belt, and anything more beautiful you cannot conceive.  We forgot our bumps and bruises in sheer delight.  Oh the loveliness of those pines and cedars, living or dead!  For the dead trees are draped with the most exquisite golden-green lichen, which hangs in festoons many yards in length, and is unlike any other moss or lichen I ever saw.  I can compare it to nothing but gleams of sunshine in the dark forest.  Then, too, how beautiful are the long arcades of stately columns, red, yellow, or brown, 200 feet in height, and straight as an arrow, losing themselves in their own crown of misty green foliage; and some stand solitary, dead and sun-bleached, telling of careless fires, which burnt away their hearts, but could not make them fall!</p><P>There are so many different pines, and firs, and cedars, that as yet I can scarcely tell one from another.  The whole air is scented with the breath of the forests--the aromatic fragrance of resin and of dried cones and pine-needles baked by the hot sun (how it reminds me of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Scotch firs!); and the atmosphere is clear and crystalline--a medium which softens nothing, and reveals the farthest distance in sharpest detail.  Here and there we crossed deep gulches, where streams (swollen to torrents by the melting snow on the upper hills) rushed down over great boulders and prostrate trees--the victims of the winter gales.</p><P>Then we came to quiet glades in the forest, where the soft lawn-like turf was all jewelled with flowers; and the sunlight trickled through the drooping boughs of the feathery Douglas pines, and the jolly little chip-munks played hide-and-seek among the great cedars, and chased one another to the very tops of the tall pitch-pines, which stand like clusters of dark spires, more than 200 feet in height.  It was altogether lovely; but I think no one was sorry when we reached a turn in the road, where we descended from the high forest-belt, and crossing a picturesque stream--"Big Creek" by name--we found ourselves in this comfortable ranch, which takes its name from one of the pioneers of the valley, though it is now kept by a family of the name of Bruce.  It stands on the banks of the South Merced river--another pretty Spanish name.</p><P>Here we fell in with some friends from Scotland, who have just arrived here <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
127.sgm: New Zealand.  I must go and have a chat with them over the cherry wood-fire, which is blazing most invitingly--so now good night.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>IN THE FOREST--SEQUOIA GIGANTEA--THE RED SNOW-FLOWER--YO&macr;-SEMITE&acute; VALLEY IN WINTER--A SNOW-SHOWER.</p><P>CLARKE'S RANCH, <HI REND="italics">Monday Night</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>We have spent a long day of delight in the most magnificent forest that it is possible to imagine; and I have realised an altogether new sensation, for I have seen the Big trees of California, and have walked round about them, and inside their cavernous hollows, and have done homage as beseems a most reverent tree-worshipper.  They are wonderful--they are stupendous!  But as to beauty--no.  They shall never tempt me to swerve from my allegiance to my true tree-love--the glorious Deodara forests of the Himalayas.</p><P>If size alone were to be considered, undoubtedly the Sequoia stands pre-eminent, for to-day we have seen several trees at least three times as large as the biggest Deodara in the cedar shades of Kunai; but for symmetry, and grace, and exquisitely harmonious lines, the "God-given" cedar of Himala stands alone, with its wide-spreading, twisted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:arms, and velvety layers of foliage studded with pale-green cones,--its great red stem supporting a pyramid of green, far more majestic than the diminutive crown of the Big trees.  So at first it was hard to realise that the Californian cedars are altogether justified in concentrating all their growing power in one steady upward direction, so intent on reaching heaven that they could not afford to throw out one kindly bough to right or left.  They remind me of certain rigidly good Pharisees, devoid of all loving sympathies with their fellows, with no outstretched arms of kindly charity--only intent on regulating their own lives by strictest unvarying rule.</p><P>Great Towers of Babel they seem to me, straining upward toward the heaven which they will never reach.</p><P>There is nothing lovable about a Sequoia.  It is so gigantic that I feel overawed by it, but all the time I am conscious that in my secret heart I am comparing it with the odd Dutch trees in a Noah's Ark, with a small tuft of foliage on the top of a large red stem, out of all proportion.  And another unpleasant simile forces itself on my mind--namely, a tall penguin, or one of the wingless birds of New Zealand, with feeble little flaps in place of wings, altogether disproportioned to their bodies.</p><P>But this is merely an aside--lest you should suppose that each new land I visit wins my affections from earlier loves.  The Deodara forests must ever keep their place in my innermost heart: no sunlight can ever be so lovely as that which plays among their boughs--no sky so blue--no ice-peaks so glittering as those which there cleave the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:heaven; and I am sure that these poor wretched-looking Digger Indians can never have the same interest for me as the wild Himalayan highlanders--the Paharis--who assemble at the little temples of carved cedar-wood in the Great Forest Sanctuary, to offer their strange sacrifices, and dance in mystic sunwise procession.</p><P>Having said this much, I may now sing the praises of a newly found delight, for in truth these forests of the Sierras have a charm of their own, which cannot be surpassed, in the amazing variety of beautiful pines, firs, and cedars of which they are composed.  The white fir, the Douglas spruce, sugar-pine, and pitch-pine are the most abundant, and are scattered singly or in strikingly picturesque groups over all the mountains hereabouts.</p><P>But the Big trees are only found in certain favoured spots--sheltered places watered by snow-fed streams, at an average of from 5000 to 7000 feet above the sea.  Eight distinct groves have been discovered, all growing in rich, deep vegetable-mould, on a foundation of powdered granite.  Broad gaps lie between the principal groves, and it is observed that these invariably lie in the track of the great ice-rivers, where the accumulation of powdered rock and gravel formed the earliest commencement of the soil, which by slow degrees became rich, and deep, and fertile.  There is even reason to believe that these groves are pre-Adamite.  A very average tree (only twenty-three feet in diameter) having been felled, its annual rings were counted by three different persons, whose calculations varied from 2125 to 2137; and this tree was by no means very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:aged-looking--probably not half the age of some of its big relations, one of which (on King's river) is forty-four feet in diameter.</p><P>Then, again, some of the largest of these trees are lying prostrate on the ground; and in the ditches formed by their crash, trees have grown up of such a size, and in such a position, as to prove that the fallen giants have lain there for centuries--a thousand years or more; and although partially embedded in the earth, and surrounded by damp forest, their almost imperishable timber is as sound as if newly felled.  So it appears that a Sequoia may lie on damp earth for untold ages without showing any symptom of decay.  Yet in the southern groves huge prostrate trees are found quite rotten, apparently proving that they must have lain there for an incalculable period.</p><P>Of the eight groves aforesaid, the most northerly is Calaveras, and the most southerly is on the south fork of the Tule river.  The others are the Stanislaus, the Merced and Crane Flat, the Mariposa, the Fresno, the King's and Kaweah rivers, and the north fork of the Tule river.  It is worthy of note that the more northerly groves are found at the lowest level, Calaveras being only 4759 feet above the sea, while the Tule and Kaweah belts range over the Sierras at about 7000 feet.</p><P>The number of Sequoias in the northern groves is reckoned to be as follows: Calaveras, 90 trees upwards of fifteen feet in diameter; Stanislaus or South Calaveras grove, distant six miles from North Calaveras, contains 1380 trees over one foot in diameter (many of them being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:over thirty feet in diameter).  Mariposa has its 600 Sequoias; and the beautiful Fresno grove, some miles from Mariposa, has 1200.  Merced has 50, and Tuolumne 30.  The southern belts have not yet been fully explored, but are apparently the most extensive.</p><P>The Mariposa grove, where we have been to-day, is the only one which has been reserved by Government as a park for the nation.  It lies five miles from here.  I should rather say there are two groves.  The lower grove lies in a sheltered valley between two mountain-spurs; the upper grove, as its name implies, occupies a higher level, 6500 feet above the sea.</p><P>We breakfasted very early, and by 6 A.M. were in the saddle.  Capital sure-footed ponies were provided for all who chose to ride.  Some of the gentlemen preferred walking.  From this house we had to ascend about 2500 feet; but the track follows an easy gradient, and the whole distance lies through beautiful forest, where each successive group of pines seems loftier than the last.</p><P>I think we all agreed that the queen of beauty is the sugar-pine,<ANCHOR ID="n4-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: so exquisite is the grace of its tall tapering spire and slender branches, each following the most perfect double curve of the true line of beauty.  And next to it, I think, ranks the <HI REND="italics">incense-cedar</HI>
127.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n4-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: with its rich brown bark and warm golden-green foliage.  The young trees are feathered to the ground, their lower branches drooping, those nearer the summit pointing heavenward, the whole forming a perfectly tapering cone of richest green.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:older trees throw out great angular arms, from which the golden lichens hang in long waving festoons like embodied sunlight.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-11"><HI REND="italics">Pinus Lambertiana</HI>
127.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-12"><HI REND="italics">Libocedrus decurrens</HI>
127.sgm:<P>As we gradually worked uphill through the coniferous belts, the trees seemed gradually to increase in size, so that the eye got accustomed by degrees; and when at length we actually reached the Big-tree grove<ANCHOR ID="n4-13">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: we scarcely realised that we were in the presence of the race of giants.  Only when we occasionally halted at the base of a colossal pillar, somewhere about 80 feet in circumference, and about 250 in height, and compared it with its neighbours, and, above all, with ourselves--poor, insignificant pigmies--could we bring home to our minds a sense of its gigantic proportions.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-13"><HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
127.sgm:<P>With all the reverence due to antiquity, we gazed on these Methuselahs of the forest, to whom a few centuries more or less in the record of their long lives are a trifle scarcely worth mentioning.  But our admiration was more freely bestowed on the rising generation, the beautiful young trees, only about five or six hundred years of age, and averaging thirty feet in circumference; while still younger trees, the mere children of about a hundred years old, still retain the graceful habits of early youth, and are very elegant in their growth--though, of course, none but mere babies bear the slightest resemblance to the tree as we know it on English lawns.</p><P>It really is heartbreaking to see the havoc that has been done by careless fires.  Very few of the older trees <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:have escaped scathless.  Most of this damage has been done by Indians, who burn the scrub to scare the game, and the fire spreads to the trees, and there smoulders unheeded for weeks, till happily some chance extinguishes it.  Many lords of the forest have thus been burnt out, and have at last fallen, and lie on the ground partly embedded, forming great tunnels, hollow from end to end, so that in several cases two horsemen can ride abreast inside the tree from (what was once) its base to its summit.</p><P>We halted at the base of the Grizzly Giant, which well deserves its name; for it measures ninety-three feet in circumference, and looks so battered and weather-worn that it probably is about the most venerable tree in the forest.  It is one of the most picturesque Sequoias I have seen, just because it has broken through all the rules of symmetry, so rigidly observed by its well-conditioned, well-grown brethren; and instead of being a vast cinnamon-coloured column, with small boughs near the summit, it has taken a line of its own, and thrown out several great branches, each about six feet in diameter--in other words, about as large as a fine old English beech-tree!</p><P>This poor old tree has had a great hollow burnt in it (I think the Indians must have used it as a kitchen), and our half-dozen ponies and mules were stabled in the hollow--a most picturesque group.  It seems strange to see trees thus scorched and charred, with their insides clean burnt out, yet, on looking far, far overhead, to perceive them crowned with fresh blue-green, as if nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:ailed them, so great is their vitality.  Benjamin Taylor says of such a one, "It did not know that it ought to be dead.  The tides of life flowed so mightily up that majestic column!"</p><P>The Indians say that all other trees grow, but that the Big trees are the special creation of the Great Spirit.  So here too, you see, we have, not tree-worship, but something of the reverence accorded to the cedar in all lands.  The Hebrew poet sang of "the trees of the Lord, even the cedars of Lebanon, which He hath planted."  And the hill-tribes of Northern India build a rudely carved temple beneath each specially magnificent clump of Deodar, to mark that they are "God's trees;' while in the sacred Sanskrit poems they are called Deva dara or Deva daru, meaning the gift, the spouse, the wood of God, but in any case, denoting the sanctity of the tree.</p><P>Whether these Californian Indians had any similar title for their Big trees, I have failed to learn; but the name by which they are known to the civilised world is that of Sequoyah, a half-caste Cherokee Indian, who distinguished himself by inventing an alphabet and a written language for his tribe.  It was a most ingenious alphabet, consisting of eighty-six characters, each representing a syllable, and was so well adapted to its purpose that it was extensively used by the Indians before the white man had ever heard of it.  Afterwards it was adopted by the missionaries, who started a printing-press, with types of this character, and issued a newspaper for the Cherokee tribe, by whom this singular alphabet is still used.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>When the learned botanist Endlicher had to find a suitable name for the lovely redwood cedars, he did honour to Sequoyah, by linking his memory for ever with that of the evergreen forests of the Coast Range.<ANCHOR ID="n4-14">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: And when afterwards these Big trees of the same race were discovered on the Sierras, they of course were included under the same family name.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-14"><HI REND="italics">Sequoia sempervirens</HI>
127.sgm:<P>I began this letter by telling you that these giants fail to impress me with a sense of beauty, from the disproportion of their boughs to their huge stems.  This, however, only occurs to me on those rare occasions when a Big tree stands so much alone that the eye can take it in at a glance, and this very rarely is the case.  Generally--as Ian Campbell told us--we could not see the trees for the forest!  Splendid red and yellow and silvery-grey pillars are grouped all around the colossal Sienna column; and their mingling boughs form a canopy of such lovely green, that at first you scarcely notice that this kindly verdure all belongs to other trees, and that whatever clothing the giant may possess, is all reserved for his (frequently invisible) head and shoulders.</p><P>But of the loveliness of the under-world you can form no conception from any comparison with the finest firwood of Scotland.  Dearly as I love them, they would seem mere pigmies and monotonously dull, as compared with these pine-forests of the West.  There is no heather here, however; so Scotland scores hugely on that point!  But one special charm here lies in that exquisite lichen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:of which I have already told you, which literally covers all the branches of many trees with a thick coating several inches deep of the most brilliant yellow-green.  It is just the colour we call lemon-yellow, sprinkled with chrome; but this sounds prosaic, and its effect in the sombre forest is that of joyous sunbeams lighting up the darkness.</p><P>We all came back laden with golden boughs, and with immense cones of sugar-pine, which are about fifteen inches in length, and with tiny cones of the giant cedar, which scarcely measure two inches.  As the acorn is to the oak, so is this tiny seed-bearer to the great trees; and (as the old fable taught us) well for us that it is so--for to-day I stood beneath a tree which measured 272 feet in height, and rather congratulated myself that nothing larger could drop on my head!  In another grove, at Calaveras, there are several trees standing upwards of 300 feet, and one is proved to be 325--a noble spire.  I hope to see it before long.</p><P>Considering the multitude of cones which must fall every autumn, we rather wondered to see so few young cedars springing up round the parent stems.  But this is accounted for by the frequent fires which, as I already told you, have done such havoc in the grove.  Comparatively few of the largest trees are altogether free from injury.  They are either burned at the base or at one side; or, like the Grizzly Giant, their poor old heart has been burnt out, leaving a blackened cavern in its place, and perhaps forming a chimney right up the middle of the tree.  I suppose the Indians have been accustomed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:camp in the grove, for there are fewer traces of fire on the outskirts, and young trees of five or six inches in diameter are tolerably abundant.</p><P>Some one took the trouble to count and measure the trees in the upper Mariposa grove, and found that, without counting baby giants, it contains 365 Sequoias of upwards of three feet in circumference--one for every day of the year.  Of these about 125 measure upwards of forty feet round.  The lower grove contains about half that number.  In the upper grove the Big trees are more strikingly grouped, and stand together in clusters, without so many other sorts intervening.</p><P>The trail is led uphill by the course of one stream, and down beside another, so as to pass beside all the finest trees.  They are bright rushing streams, leaping from rock to rock, and fringed with crystalline glittering icicles.  We did not, however, attempt to follow them closely, as at that high level the snow is still so deep as effectually to conceal the trail, so we struck a line for ourselves.  Most of our fellow-travellers were quickly satisfied, and turned back from the lower grove with the happy consciousness that they had seen the Big trees, <HI REND="italics">and could say so</HI>
127.sgm:, which appears to be the sole aim and end of a multitude of Globe trotters in regard to most of the beauties of nature.</p><P>Our party, of course, determined to push on, and it was agreed that I should take my pony as far as possible, as it was likely to be a tiring scramble.  Presently we came to a ridge too steep for the willing beast, so tying him up to a tree, I joined the walkers.  The snow was a good deal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:more than knee-deep, but the beauty of the scene was a reward for all the fatigue involved, and we were determined not to turn till we had reached a special group, which had been described to us, and which we were to distinguish by finding a small log-hut near a huge fallen tree.</p><P>At last we called a halt, and I remained stationary, while the gentlemen went off in three different directions, prospecting.  One by one they returned, having failed in their quest, and agreed to give up the search, when I begged for one more trial, and led the way to a long hillock of snow, which proved to be a fallen giant; and just beyond it, on lower ground, lay the group we sought--by far the grandest we had yet seen--and the little log-hut snugly sheltered in the heart of this forest sanctuary, just where a Pahari would have placed his cedar-wood temple.  I did feel so proud of having proved a better woodsman than my comrades, all of whom are experienced foresters!</p><P>Returning to the ponies, we unpacked our luncheon-basket with much satisfaction, and then leisurely took the homeward track, very wet and tired, but having thoroughly enjoyed the day.</p><P>Among its many interests has been the finding of a flower altogether new to me--a strange bright scarlet-crimson blossom, like a very fleshy hyacinth.  It is here called the snow-flower,<ANCHOR ID="n4-15">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: because it rises right out of the earth as soon as ever the snow melts, after the manner of our snowdrop.  But instead of being enfolded in smooth green leaves, each crimson bell is wrapped in a crimson <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:leaflet, which uncurls as it rises above the earth, forming a sort of hyacinthine pyramid of blossom eight inches in height.  It has only two or three inches of thick stem, and really suggests little tongues of flame darting out of the newly thawed earth, quite close to snow-drifts.  I do not know if it grows in any other country, but I never heard of it elsewhere.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-15"><HI REND="italics">Sarcodes sanguinea</HI>
127.sgm:<P>I cannot tell you how glad I am that my lucky star brought me to California (quite against my will) at this season, while there is still just sufficient snow to let me see the Sierra Nevada<ANCHOR ID="n4-16">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: in its true character.  All the mountain-peaks stand out clear and dazzlingly bright against a cold steely-grey sky.  This morning it was leaden-hued, and a heavy snow-shower swept over the range,--we trust it was winter's farewell kiss, for certainly we have no wish to be snowed up in the valley, magnificent as it must be, to judge from the description given to me by an adventurous artist, who has braved its dangers in devotion to his art, and deliberately consigned himself to a long captivity in the valley, exquisite in its wintry loveliness, but none the less a prison, with ramparts of frozen snow forty and fifty feet in depth, obliterating every trace of the passes, by which alone the valley is accessible at midsummer, and never melting for six long months.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-16">Sierra Nevada--"Range of Snow."</NOTE>
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127.sgm:four or five feet in a day.  So the few regular inhabitants of the valley make up their minds to total seclusion during this period, and provision themselves accordingly, knowing that till the warm breath of spring shall melt their prison-walls, not even a chance horseman or cat-like Indian will invade their solitude.  The wailing of the wild winds and the roar of the rushing rivers are the only murmurs that can reach them from beyond their lonely valley.</p><P>Thanks to huge snow-shoes, ten or twelve feet long, turned up in front like the runner of a skate, and with a leather strap in the middle, which is lightly laced over the instep, a good deal of travelling can be done on tolerably level ground; but of course these are utterly useless in traversing difficult mountain-ridges, where the rocky paths are no child's playground at any time, being merely trails winding along almost precipitous crags, or crumbling slopes of disintegrated rock, which at any moment may give way to the constant action of wind and weather and natural drainage, and glide down with headlong crash, to find rest in the valley some thousand feet below.</p><P>Of course in the deep snow every familiar landmark is so utterly changed, that the oldest hunter could scarcely guess where, beneath the smooth expanse of beautiful treacherous white, lies the hidden path; and rash indeed must be the man who attempts to force his way in defiance of the Snow-king.</p><P>The effect of the shower this morning was truly lovely.  The falling flakes shrouded the mountains in a filmy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:gauze-like veil, while the distant clumps of dark pines, wrapped in grey shadow, were indistinct and phantom-like.  Those nearer to us loomed gigantic, their vast size exaggerated by the magnifying mist and the swirling of the fitful snow-showers.  Silently, silently the soft feather-like flakes fell, not a breath of wind stirring to disturb them as they settled on every twig and spray, more lightly than ever butterfly rested on a flower.</p><P>Suddenly the clouds cleared off, revealing a heaven more intensely azure than I have ever seen even in the tropics.  And then a flood of golden sunlight was outpoured on the beautiful dazzling earth, and the glory of the forest was beyond all description.  Each stately pine seemed transformed to a pyramid of glistening alabaster, with strata of malachite, as we caught glimpses of the darkgreen undersides of the graceful sweeping boughs, weighed down beneath their burden of myriad snow-flakes.</p><P>On every side of us, in the low-lying forest, or the hanging wood that clothed the steep mountain-side, rose ten thousand times ten thousand tall white spires and minarets and pinnacles--as in some idealised oriental way but assuredly no marble ever gleamed so purely--not even the dreamlike tombs of Agra).</p><P>On every grassy reed, each hazel twig and manzanita bush, the light flakes lay in fairy-like crystals--even the silken webs of the busy spiders had caught their share, and now sparkled like jewels in the sunlight.  And every great rock-boulder was snow-capped, and each stern rugged crag was softened by a powder-like dusting, lightly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:sprinkled wherever a crevice or a furrow gave it a chance of resting; and far above all uprose the eternal hills, robed in spotless white, pure and dazzling.</p><P>So, from dawn till sunset, the day has been filled with images of beauty; but not one more pleasant than that of the blazing fire and capital dinner which awaited us on our return here.  You must remember that to me fire and snow are alike wellnigh forgotten elements, so they possess almost the charm of novelty, linked with that of old association.  Now the most attractive of all good gifts presents itself in the prospect of a grand sound sleep, so--Good night.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>TO THE VALLEY--A WAYSIDE LUNCH--A GRANITE PRISON--GIANT CRAGS--BRIDAL VEIL FALL--LEAFLESS TREES--MAY-DAY--GRANITE ARCHES--MIRROR LAKE--GRANITE DOMES.</p><P>IN THE YO&macr;-SEMITE&acute; VALLEY, <HI REND="italics">April</HI>
127.sgm: 30.</p><P>JUST imagine those people in San Francisco telling us that we could see the Valley ( <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
127.sgm: the Valley is the correct expression) in two days, but that three would be ample!  Three days of jolting over the roughest roads--three days of hard work rushing from point to point in this wonderland, and then the weary journey to be done over again, shaking all impressions of calm beauty from our exhausted minds!</p><P>Well, I for one have wandered far enough over the wide world to know a unique glory when I am blessed by the sight of one, and the first glimpse of this extraordinary combination of granite crags and stupendous waterfalls showed me plainly enough that it would take me weeks to make acquaintance with them, and that if I fail to do so, I shall regret it all my life.  So I have written to give up my passage to Honolulu for the present, and have also <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:written to request that my letters may be forwarded thence to me here.  This will make yet one more delay of three weeks in hearing from you; but now that so many months have elapsed without letters, I have got into a way of doing without them (I do not thereby mean to say that you need not write regularly!).  But thanks to all the items of home news, and of Fiji news, which I have gathered since landing in San Francisco, I feel fairly <HI REND="italics">aucourant</HI>
127.sgm: of what is going on, so the hunger for letters shall not carry me away from the Sierras in three days!</p><P>Now, to tell you the news of to-day.  We had a drive of about twenty-seven miles from Clarke's Ranch to this place, so we were obliged once more to pack ourselves into the vile van which does duty as a coach.  They tell us that later in the season, when the roads have been repaired, they will put on good coaches.  I heartily wish they had done so before we came; or still better, that we had arranged to ride to the valley, and send only our unfeeling luggage by coach.</p><P>Formerly every one had to ride, and the old bridle-track was led in zigzags along the face of steep hills, by the deep gorge through which the river Merced has cut for itself a way of escape from the valley, between rock-walls which rise precipitously for several hundred feet above its tumultuous waters.  For ten miles the said track had to pass through a deep canyon where there was no room at all for a trail, so it was actually blasted from the solid rock, and at some points was led at a height of several hundred feet above the roaring stream, with no protecting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:parapet of any sort, but a sheer perpendicular fall, where one false step would assuredly prove the last.  Along this dangerous trail, wise, sure-footed horses crept warily, as if knowing that they were responsible for the safety of their riders as well as for their own.</p><P>Now safer though less picturesque roads have been engineered, by which the valley can be approached from several different points.  That by which we entered is, I think, known as "Inspiration Point."  When we started from Clarke's Ranch, we were then at about the same level as we are at this moment--namely, 4000 feet above the sea.  The road gradually wound upwards through beautiful forest and by upland valleys, where the snow still lay pure and white; and here and there, where it had melted and exposed patches of dry earth, the red flame-like blossoms of the snow-plant gleamed vividly.</p><P>It was slow work toiling up those steep ascents, and it must have taken us much longer than our landlord had expected, for he had despatched us without a morsel of luncheon; and ere we reached the half-way house, where we were to change horses, we were all ravenous.  A dozen hungry people, with appetites sharpened by the keen, exhilarating mountain air!  No provisions of any sort were to be had; but the compassionate horse-keeper, hearing our pitiful complaints, produced a loaf and a pot of blackberry jelly, and we all sat on a bank and ate our "piece" (as the bairns in Scotland would say) with infinite relish, and drank from a clear stream close by.  So were we satisfied with bread here in the wilderness.  I confess <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:to many qualms as to how that good fellow fared himself, as loaves cannot grow abundantly in those parts.</p><P>Once more we started on our toilsome way across mountain meadows and forest ridges, till at last we had gained a height of about 7000 feet above the sea.  Then suddenly we caught our first sight of the valley lying about 3000 feet below us, an abrupt chasm in the great rolling expanse of billowy granite ridges--or I should rather describe it as a vast sunken pit, with perpendicular walls, and carpeted with a level meadow, through which flows a river gleaming like quicksilver.</p><P>Here and there a vertical cloud of spray on the face of the huge crags told where some snow-fed stream from the upper levels had found its way to the brink of the chasm--a perpendicular fall of from 2000 to 3000 feet.</p><P>The fall nearest to where we stood, yet at a distance of several miles, was pointed out as the Bridal Veil.  It seemed a floating film of finest mist, on which played the loveliest rainbow lights.  For the sun was already lowering behind us, and the afternoon shadows were stealing over the valley, though the light shone clear and bright on the cold white granite crags, and on the glittering snow-peaks of the high Sierras.</p><P>Each mighty precipice, and rock-needle, and strange granite dome was pointed out to us by name as we halted on the summit of the pass ere commencing the steep descent.  The Bridal Veil falls over a granite crag near the entrance of the valley, which, on the opposite side, is guarded by a stupendous square-cut granite mass, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<illus entity="a127-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LOOKING DOWN THE VALLEY</p></CAPTION>
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127.sgm:projecting so far as seemingly to block the way.  These form the gateway of this wonderful granite prison.  Perhaps the great massive cliff rather suggests the idea of a huge keep wherein the genii of the valley braved the siege of the Ice-giants.</p><P>The Indians revere it as the great chief of the valley, but white men only know it as El Capitan.  If it must have a new title, I think it should at least rank as a field-marshal in the rock-world, for assuredly no other crag exists that can compare with it.  Just try to realise its dimensions: a massive face of smooth cream-coloured granite, half a mile long, half a mile wide, three-fifths of a mile high.  Its actual height is 3300 feet--(I think that 5280 feet go to a mile).  Think of our beautiful Castle Rock in Edinburgh, with its 434 feet; or Dover Castle, 469 feet; or even Arthur's Seat, 822 feet,--what pigmies they would seem could some wizard transport them to the base of this grand crag, on whose surface not a blade of grass, not a fern or lichen, finds holding ground, or presumes to tinge the bare, clean-cut precipice, which, strange to tell, is clearly visible from the great San Joaquin Valley, a distance of sixty miles!</p><P>Imagine a crag just the height of Snowdon, with a lovely snow-stream falling perpendicularly from its summit to its base, and a second and larger fall in the deep gorge where it meets the great rock-wall of the valley.  The first is nameless, and will vanish with the snows; but the second never quite dries up, even in summer.  It is known to the Indians as Lung-oo-too-koo-ya, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:describes its graceful length; but white men call it "The Virgin's Tears" or "The Ribbon Fall"--a blending of millinery and romance doubtless devised by the same genius who changed the Indian name of Pohono to "The Bridal Veil."</p><P>We passed close to the latter as we entered the valley--in fact, forded the stream just below the fall--and agreed that if Pohono be in truth, as the Indian legend tells, the spirit of an evil wind, it surely must be a repentant glorified spirit, for nothing so beautiful could be evil.  It is a sight to gladden the angels--a most ethereal fall, light as steam, swaying with every breath.</p><P>It falls from an overhanging rock, and often the current produced by its own rushing seems to pass beneath the rock, and so checks the whole column, and carries it upward in a wreath of whitest vapour, blending with the true clouds.</p><P>When the rainbow plays on it, it too seems to be wafted up, and floats in a jewelled spray, wherein sapphires and diamonds and opals, topaz and emeralds, all mingle their dazzling tints.  At other times it rushes down in a shower of fairy-like rockets in what appears to be a perpendicular column 1000 feet high, and loses itself in a cloud of mist among the tall dark pines which clothe the base of the crag.</p><P>A very accurate gentleman has just assured me that it is not literally perpendicular, as, after a leap of 630 feet, it strikes the rock, and then makes a fresh start in a series of almost vertical cascades, which form a dozen streamlets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:ere they reach the meadows.  He adds that the fall is about fifty feet wide at the summit.</p><P>The rock-mass over which it falls forms the other great granite portal of the valley, not quite so imposing as its massive neighbour, but far more shapely.  In fact, it bears so strong a resemblance to a Gothic building that it is called the Cathedral Rock.  It is a cathedral for the giants, being 2660 feet in height; and two graceful rock-pinnacles attached to the main rock, and known as the Cathedral Spires, are each 500 feet in height.</p><P>Beyond these, towers a truly imposing rock-needle, which has been well named "The Sentinel."  It is an obelisk 1000 feet in height, rising from the great rock-wall, which forms a pedestal of 2000 more.</p><P>As if to balance these three rock-needles on the right-hand side, there are, on the left, three rounded mountains which the Indians call Pompompasus--that is, the Leaping-Frog Rocks.  They rise in steps, forming a triple mountain 3830 feet high.  Tall frogs these, even for California.  Imaginative people say the resemblance is unmistakable, and that all the frogs are poised as if in readiness for a spring, with their heads all turned the same way.  For my own part, I have a happy knack of not seeing these accidental likenesses, and especially eschew those faces and pictures (generally grotesque) which some most aggravating people are always discovering among the lines and weather-stains on the solemn crags, and which they insist on pointing out to their unfortunate companions.  Our coachman seemed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:consider this a necessary part of his office, so I assume there must be some people who like it.</p><P>Farther up the valley, two gigantic Domes of white granite are built up on the foundation of the great encompassing wall.  One stands on each side of the valley.  The North Dome is perfect, like the roof of some vast mosque; but the South, or Half Dome, is an extraordinary freak of nature, very puzzling to geologists, as literally half of a stupendous mass of granite has disappeared, leaving no trace of its existence, save a sheer precipitous rock-face, considerably over 4000 feet in height, from which the corresponding half has evidently broken off, and slipped down into some fearful chasm, which apparently it has been the means of filling up.</p><P>Above the Domes, and closing in the upper end of the valley, is a beautiful snowy mountain, called Cloud's Rest, which, seen from afar, is the most attractive point of all, and one which I must certainly visit some day.  But meanwhile there are nearer points of infinite interest, the foremost being the waterfall from which the valley takes its name, and which burst suddenly upon our amazed vision when we reached the base of the Sentinel Rock.</p><P>IT is so indescribably lovely that I altogether despair of conveying any notion of it in words, so shall not try to do so yet a while.</p><P>But from what I have told you, you must perceive that each step in this strange valley affords a study for weeks, whether to an artist, a geologist, or any other lover of beautiful and wonderful scenes; and more than ever, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:congratulate myself on having arrived here while all the oaks, alders, willows, and other deciduous trees, are bare and leafless, so that no curtain of dense foliage conceals the countless beauties of the valley.  Already I have seen innumerable most beautiful views, scarcely veiled by the filmy network of fine twigs, but which evidently will be altogether concealed a month hence, when these have donned their summer dress.  To me these leafless trees rank with fires and snows.  I have not seen one since I left England, so I look at them with renewed interest, and delight in the beauty of their anatomy, as you and I have done many a time in the larch woods and the "birken braes" of the Findhorn<ANCHOR ID="n5-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: (where the yellow twigs of the larch, and the grey aspen, and claret-coloured sprays of birch, blend with russet oak and green Scotch firs, and produce a winter colouring wellnigh as varied as that of summer).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-11">The river Findhorn in Morayshire, Scotland.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Here there is an enchanting reminder of home in the tall poplar-trees--the Balm of Gilead--which are just bursting into leaf, and fill the air with heavenly perfume.  They grow in clumps all along the course of the Merced, the beautiful "river of Mercy," which flows through this green level valley so peacefully, as if it was thankful for this quiet interval in the course of its restless life.</p><P>There is no snow in the valley, but it still lies thickly on the hills all round.  Very soon it will melt, and then the falls will all be in their glory, and the meadows will be flooded and the streams impassable.  I am glad we have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:arrived in time to wander about dry-footed, and to learn the geography of the country in its normal state.</p><P>The valley is an almost dead level, about eight miles long, and varies in width from half a mile to two miles.  It is like a beautiful park of greenest sward, through which winds the clear, calm river--a capital trout-stream, of about eighty feet in width.  In every direction are scattered picturesque groups of magnificent trees, noble old oaks, and pines of 250 feet in height!  The river is spanned by two wooden bridges; and three neat hotels are well placed about the middle of the valley, half a mile apart--happily not fine, incongruous buildings, but wooden bungalows, well suited to the requirements of such pilgrims as ourselves.</p><P>They are respectively kept by a German (with, I think, a Scotch wife), an Englishman, and an American.  The latter, in my opinion, occupies by far the most desirable position, being the farthest up the valley, and consequently the most retired.  The wife of its proprietor, Mrs Barnard, was one of our fellow-travellers, and to her care we determined to commend ourselves.  But finding that our friends had already secured their quarters at the central hotel, we resolved to spare our poor bones the last straw of jolting; and so we, too, have for the present taken up our abode with our countryman, Mr Black, and find ourselves very well cared for.</p><P>When we saw what a splendid view of the Great Yo&macr;semite&acute; Falls we get from this house, we thought it must be the best position, and no mistake.  But when, this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:evening, we wandered up the valley, and perceived that it was quite as beautiful as seen from the other, we confessed that the honours were well divided, and began to understand something of the size of a fall to which a mile east or west matters so little!</p><P><HI REND="italics">May-day</HI>
127.sgm:, 1877.</p><P>May-day!  What a vision of langsyne!  Of the May-dew we used to gather from off the cowslips by the sweet burnside, in those dear old days.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"When we all were young together,<LB>And the earth was new to me."<LB></HI>
127.sgm:</p><P>I daresay you forgot all about May-day this morning, in the prosaic details of town life.  But here we ran no such risk, for we had determined to watch the Beltane<ANCHOR ID="n5-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: sunrise, reflected in the glassiest of mountain-tarns, known as the Mirror Lake; and as it lies about three miles from here, in one of the upper forks of the valley, we had to be astir betimes.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-12">Beltane--the old Scotch name for May-day--familiar to every High-lander.  It is derived from <HI REND="italics">Beil-teine</HI>
127.sgm:<P>So, when the stars began to pale in the eastern sky, we were astir, and with the earliest ray of dawn set off like true pilgrims bound to drink of some holy spring on May morning.  For the first two miles our path lay across the quiet meadows, which as yet are only lightly sprinkled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:with blossom.  We found no cowslips, but washed our faces in Californian May-dew, which we brushed from the fresh young grass and ferns.  Soon, they tell me, there will be violets, cowslips, and primroses.  We passed by the orchard of the first settler in the valley; his peach and cherry trees were laden with pink and white blossom, his strawberry-beds likewise promising an abundant crop.</p><P>It was a morning of calm beauty, and the massive grey crags all around the valley lay "like sleeping kings" robed in purple gloom, while the pale-yellow light crept up behind them, the tall dark pines forming a belt of deeper hue round their base.</p><P>About two miles above the Great Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Falls, the valley divides into three branches--canyons, I should say, or, more correctly, can&tilde;ons.  The central one is the main branch, through which the Merced itself descends from the high Sierras, passing through the Little Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Valley, and thence rushing down deep gorges, and leaping two precipices of 700 and 400 feet (which form the Nevada and the Vernal Falls), and so entering the Great Valley, where for eight miles it finds rest.</p><P>The canyon which diverges to the right is that down which rushes the South Fork of the Merced, which bears the musical though modern name of Illillouette.  It rises at the base of Mount Starr King, and enters the valley by the graceful falls which bear this pretty name.</p><P>By the way, the Starr King has no connection with astronomy and midnight heavens.  It was named in memory of a good man, or, as a lady here described him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:to me, "a lovely man"--a term which is here applied to moral worth.  It was remarked of a hideous but excellent person, "Well, I guess he don't handsome much, but he's kind of lovely!"</p><P>The third canyon, branching off to the left, is that whither we were bound.  It is called the Tenaya Fork of the Merced, a stream which flows from Mono Lake, past the foot of Cloud's Rest, and dashes down a wild gorge in a series of rushing cascades and rapids.  Finally, it calms down as it flows through a quiet green glade (wherein lies a somewhat muddy pool, which is the chosen home of yellow water-lilies).</p><P>Having tasted the blessings of peace, the Tenaya takes the first opportunity of expanding and reposing, so it forms a broad pool so still and motionless that it earns the name of Mirror Lake; but soon wearying of repose, it glides off again, and hurries impetuously downhill to join the main stream.</p><P>At the point where we left the main valley to turn into the Tenaya Fork, the rock-wall forms a sharp angle, ending in a huge columnar mass of very white granite 2400 feet in height.  The Indians call it Hunto, which means one who keeps watch; but the white men call it Washington Column.</p><P>Beside it, the rock-wall has taken the form of gigantic arches.  The lower rock seems to have weakened and crumbled or split off in huge flakes, while the upper portions remain, overhanging considerably, and forming regularly arched cliffs 2000 feet in height.  I cannot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:think how it has happened that in so republican a community these mighty rocks should be known as the Royal Arches, unless from some covert belief that they are undermined, and liable to topple over.  Their original name is To-coy-&oelig;, which describes the arched hood of an Indian baby's cradle--a famous nursery for giants.</p><P>The perpendicular rock-face beneath the arches is a sheer, smooth surface, yet seamed with deep cracks as though it would fall, were it not for the mighty buttresses of solid rock which project for some distance, casting deep shadows across the cliff.  As a test of size, I noticed a tiny pine growing from a crevice in the rock-face, and on comparing it with another in a more accessible position, I found that it was really a very large, well-grown tree.</p><P>Just at this season, when the snows on the Sierras are beginning to melt, a thousand crystal streams find temporary channels along the high levels till they reach the smooth verge of the crags, and thence leap in white foam, forming temporary falls of exceeding beauty.  Three such graceful falls at present overleap the mighty arches, and, in their turn, produce pools and exquisitely clear streams, which thread their devious way through woods and meadows, seeking the river of Mercy.</p><P>So the air is musical with the lullaby of hidden waters, and the murmur of the unseen river rippling over its pebbly bed.</p><P>Turning to the right, we next ascended Tenaya valley, which is beautifully wooded, chiefly with pine and oak, and strewn with the loveliest mossy boulders.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Unfortunately, the number of rattlesnakes is rather a draw-back to perfect enjoyment here.  I have so long been accustomed to our perfect immunity from all manner of noxious creatures in the blessed South Sea Isles, that I find it difficult at first to recall my wonted caution, and to "gang warily."  However, to-day we saw no evil creatures--only a multitude of the jolliest little chip-munks, which are small grey squirrels of extreme activity.  They are very tame, and dance about the trees close to us, jerking their brush, and giving the funniest little skips, and sometimes fairly chattering to us!</p><P>Beyond this wood we found the Mirror Lake.  It is a small pool, but exquisitely cradled in the very midst of stern granite giants, which stand all around as sentinels, guarding its placid sleep.  Willows, already covered with downy tufts, and now just bursting into slender leaflets, fringe its shores, and tall cedars and pines overshadow its waters, and are therein reflected in the stillness of early dawn, when even the granite crags far overhead also find themselves mirrored in the calm lakelet.  But with the dawn comes a whispering breeze; and just as the sun's first gleam kisses the waters, the illusion vanishes, and there remains only a somewhat muddy and troubled pool.</p><P>It lies just at the base of that extraordinary Half-Dome of which I told you yesterday--a gigantic crest of granite, which rises above the lake almost precipitously to a height of 4737 feet.  Only think of it!--nearly a mile!  Of this the upper 2000 is a sheer face of granite crag, absolutely vertical, except that the extreme summit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:actually projects somewhat; otherwise it is as clean cut as if the mighty Dome had been cloven with a sword.  A few dark streaks near the summit (due, I believe, to a microscopic fungus or lichen) alone relieve the unbroken expanse of glistening, creamy white.</p><P>The lower half slopes at a very slight incline, and is likewise a solid mass of granite--not made up of broken fragments, of which there are a wonderfully small proportion anywhere in the valley.  So the inference is, that in the tremendous convulsion by which this mighty chasm was created, the great South Dome was split from the base to the summit, and that half of it slid down into the yawning gulf: thus the gently rounded base, between the precipice and the lake, was doubtless originally the summit of the missing half mountain.</p><P>I believe that geologists are now satisfied that this strange valley, with its clean-cut, vertical walls, was produced by what is called in geology "a fault,"--namely, that some of the earth's ribs having given way internally, a portion of the outer crust has subsided, leaving an unoccupied space.  That such was the case in Yo&macr;-semite&acute;, is proved by much scientific reasoning.  It is shown that the two sides of the valley in no way correspond, so the idea of a mere gigantic fissure cannot be entertained.  Besides, as the valley is as wide at the base as at the summit, the vertical walls must have moved apart bodily,--a theory which would involve a movement of the whole chain of the Sierras for a distance of half a mile.</p><P>There is no trace of any glacier having passed through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the valley, so that the Ice-giants have had no share in making it.  Neither can it have been excavated by the long-continued action of rushing torrents, such as have carved great canyons in many parts of the Sierra Nevada.  These never have vertical walls; and besides, the smoothest faces of granite in Yo&macr;semite&acute; are turned towards the lower end of the valley, proving at once that they were never produced by forces moving downward.</p><P>So it is simply supposed that a strip of the Sierras caved in, and that in time the melting snows and streams formed a great deep lake, which filled up the whole space now occupied by the valley.  In the course of ages the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
127.sgm: of the hills continually falling into the lake, must have filled up the chasm to a level with the canyon, which is the present outlet from the valley; and as the glaciers on the upper Sierras disappeared, and the water-supply grew less, the lake must have gradually dried up (and that in comparatively recent times), and its bed of white granite sand, mingled with vegetable mould, was transformed into a green meadow, through which the quiet river now glides peacefully.</p><P>We watched by the calm Mirror Lake till the sun had climbed so high in the heavens as to overlook a purple crag, and see its own image in the quiet pool.  Then we retraced our way down the wooded canyon till we reached the open valley, now bathed in sunlight.  Cloud-shadows floated over the dewy grass-slopes and bare summits of the Sierras, and the sunbeams played on the countless nameless waterfalls, which now veil the crags with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:rainbow-tinted, gauze-like film of scattered spray and faint floating mist, swaying with every breath of air.</p><P>After breakfast the gentlemen started to explore the upper end of the valley, but I preferred a quiet day's sketching beside the peaceful river.</p><P>This evening the sun set in a flood of crimson and gold--such a glorious glow as would have dazzled an eagle.  It paled to a soft primrose, then ethereal green.  Later, the pearly-grey clouds were rose-flushed by an after-glow more vivid than the sunset itself--a rich full carmine, which quickly faded away to the cold, intense blue of a Californian night.  It was inexpressibly lovely.</p><P>Then the fitful wind rose in gusts--a melancholy moaning wail, vibrating among rocks, forests, and waters, with a low surging sound--a wild mountain melody.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>THE GREAT YO&macr;-SEMITE&acute; FALLS--SEEN FROM BELOW, SIDEWAYS, AND FROM ABOVE--MOUNTAIN-TRAILS--OTHER YO&macr;-SEMITE&acute;S--THE DOMES--GEORGE ANDERSON.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday</HI>
127.sgm:, 4 <HI REND="italics">th May</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>NO wonder the Indians reverence the beautiful Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Falls.  Even the white settlers in the valley cannot resist their influence, but speak of them with an admiration that amounts to love.  Some of them have spent the winter here, and seem almost to have enjoyed it!</p><P>They say that if I could see the falls in their winter robes, all fringed with icicles, I should gain a glimpse of fairyland.  At the base of the great fall the fairies build a real ice-palace, something more than a hundred feet high.  It is formed by the ever falling, freezing spray; and the bright sun gleams on this glittering palace of crystal, and the falling water, striking upon it, shoots off in showers like myriad opals and diamonds.</p><P>Now scarcely an icicle remains, and the falls are in their glory.  I had never dreamt of anything so lovely.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:As you know, I am not a keen lover of waterfalls in general, and am sometimes inclined to vote them a bore, when enthusiastic people insist on leaving the blessed sunshine to go ever so far down a dank, damp ravine, to see some foolish dribblet.</p><P>But here we stand in the glorious sunlight, among pine-trees of a couple of hundred feet in height; and they are pigmies like ourselves in presence of even the lowest step of the stately fall, which leaps and dashes from so vast a height that it loses all semblance of water.  It is a splendid bouquet of glistening rockets, which, instead of rushing heavenward, shoot down as if from the blue canopy, which seems to touch the brink nearly 2700 feet above us.</p><P>Like myriad falling stars they flash, each keeping its separate course for several hundred feet, till at length it blends with ten thousand more, in the grand avalanche of frothy, fleecy foam, which for ever and for ever falls, boiling and raging like a whirlpool, among the huge black boulders in the deep caldron below, and throwing back clouds of mist and vapour.</p><P>The most exquisite moment occurs when you reach some spot where the sun's rays, streaming past you, transform the light vapour into brilliant rainbow-prisms, which gird the fall with vivid iris-bars.  As the water-rockets flash through these radiant belts, they seem to carry the colour onwards as they fall; and sometimes it wavers and trembles in the breeze, so that the rainbow knows not where to rest, but forms a moving column of radiant tricolour.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<illus entity="a127-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE YO&macr; SEMITE FALL.</p></CAPTION>
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127.sgm:<P>So large a body of water rushing through the air, naturally produces a strong current, which, passing between the face of the rock and the fall, carries the latter well forward, so that it becomes the sport of every breeze that dances through the valley; hence this great column is for ever vibrating from side to side, and often it forms a semicircular curve.</p><P>The width of the stream at the summit is about twenty to thirty feet, but at the base of the upper fall it has expanded to a width of fully 300 feet; and, as the wind carries it to one side or the other, it plays over a space of fully 1000 feet in width, of a precipitous rock-face 1600 feet in depth.  That is the height of the upper fall.</p><P>As seen from below, the Yo&macr;-semite&acute;, though divided into three distinct falls, is apparently all on one plane.  It is only when you reach some point from which you see it sideways, that you realise that the great upper fall lies fully a quarter of a mile farther back than the middle and lower falls, and that it rushes down this space in boiling cascades, till it reaches a perpendicular rock, over which it leaps about 600 feet, and then gives a third and final plunge of about 500, making up a total of little under 2700 feet.</p><P>Now, if you can realise that the height of Niagara is 162-feet, you will perceive that if some potent magician could bring it into this valley, it would merely appear to be a low line of falling water, and would be effectually concealed by trees of fully its own height.<ANCHOR ID="n6-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-11"><P>Niagara, of course, makes up in width what she lacks in height.  The height of the Horse-shoe or Canadian Fall is about 150 feet; its width is 2100 feet.  The American Fall is about 160 feet in height, and 1100 in width.  The total width, inclusive of Goat Island, is 4200 feet.</p><P>Niagara not only owes nothing to its accessories, but actually benefits by the total absence of any scenery.  There is absolutely nothing in the very uninteresting level country around it, to distract the attention from the marvellous beauty of the majestic falls--from the indescribable loveliness of that heavy waving curtain of emerald-green water, and the ethereal clouds of misty foam, on which the rainbows never cease to play, whether in sunshine or moonlight.</p><P>Niagara is the type of force and irresistible might.  Yo&macr;-semite&acute; is the emblem of purity and elegance.</p></NOTE>
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127.sgm:<P>As yet, I have not attempted to reach the upper falls, but have had most enchanting scrambles through the pine-woods, and up a steep canyon, over piled-up fragments of rock, to the base of the lowest fall, or rather to a sheltered nook just to one side of it--a little oasis of green grass and ferns, whence I could get a view of the fall <HI REND="italics">en profil</HI>
127.sgm:, and watch it rushing past, forming a most beautiful and unusual foreground to the green valley seen far below, and the great granite mountains beyond.</p><P>As seen from this point, this fall is magnificent--complete in itself.  Yet from a little distance it appears only an insignificant appendage to the great fall--and its base is altogether hidden by the trees.  (It struck me as a nature-parable of human rank--the magnates of the county finding their level in the great world, their social size dwarfed in the presence of taller giants!)  I sat for hours watching these falling waters, and attempting to sketch the unsketchable, till I was fairly bewildered by the deep-toned voice of many waters, and the rushing spray, and was glad to return to the quiet green meadows.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>The snows on the Sierras are melting rapidly, and the streams are already overflowing their accustomed channels.  Several pleasant paths which we explored the day after our arrival are now flooded; for the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; is in spate--a boisterous, whirling cataract, thundering and chafing among the boulders.  Its waters have now divided into a dozen branches, each a foaming torrent, which wears a channel for itself as it rushes headlong through the pine-woods, seeking the placid Merced river, which glides on a dead level from the moment it enters the valley till it departs thence.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday</HI>
127.sgm:,7 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>I cannot sufficiently congratulate myself on having brought my excellent English side-saddle.  Those provided by the horsekeepers of the valley are horribly uncomfortable.  They object exceedingly to mine, as being a good deal heavier, but the difference of fatigue on a long day's expedition is not to be told; so I resolutely refuse to use any but my own.  Some ladies, I believe, adopt a neat sort of bloomer dress, and ride men's saddles--a practice highly recommended by the guides, who call it "riding straddle-legs."  They say it is infinitely safer on these dangerous precipitous trails, as it ensures a good balance.  I believe they are right, but nevertheless, have no intention of taking their advice!<ANCHOR ID="n6-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-12">In olden days it seems to have been optional for the ladies of Britain either to ride astride or sideways.  Chaucer describes the Wife of Bath as wearing on her feet <HI REND="italics">a pair</HI>
127.sgm: of spurs, sharp.  In the `Domestic Manners of the Middle Ages,' illustrations taken from very old drawings show ladies riding, sometimes sideways, sometimes <HI REND="italics">a&grave; califourchon</HI>
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127.sgm:<P>There are no end of animals for hire, chiefly sturdy ponies and mules, very sure-footed, as they would need to be.  The charge for pony ride is exorbitant.  I am paying five dollars a-day (&pound;1) for the use of a very commonplace beast.  The owners justify the charge, on the plea of the expense of keeping horses in the valley during the winter, when they require hay and barley imported from the plains at very heavy freight.<ANCHOR ID="n6-13">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-13">Later in the season the guardians of the valley issued a fixed tariff, which reduced horse-hires to, I think, three dollars a-day for moderate distances, and five dollars only for what are called double rides.  But as the owners refuse to let any beast go out unless accompanied by a mountain guide, the traffic in horse-flesh continues remunerative.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>To any but a first-rate walker, a beast of some sort is a downright necessity here, if you wish to see anything beyond the valley itself, as it holds you fairly imprisoned till you can scale its walls.  Not till then do you gain any idea of the vast expanse of alpine scenery which lies beyond--range beyond range,--a world of grey granite and snow, relieved by tracts of dark pine-forest.</p><P>When we first arrived, we really felt as if we never could escape from the valley, there seemed no possible means for any but winged creatures to reach the upper world; but soon we learnt that patient men had devised cunningly contrived zigzag trails, taking advantage of every little ledge and crevice, of rock-blasting here and building there, till they had engineered excellent paths at a safe gradient along the face of what appear to be perpendicular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:walls of granite; and so, winding to and fro, here following the course of some deep gulch, there taking advantage of a patch of forest, they finally reached the summit, and could look down on the valley as on a green and silver ribbon, lying far below them.</p><P>Though the valley is reserved by the State as a national park, all these trails have been made by private enterprise, at a considerable outlay of labour, time, and money.  So the proprietor of each is allowed to levy a toll of from one to two dollars on each passenger.  Having paid once, you are free for the season; but few indeed are the travellers who ever allow themselves time to go over any of these grand scenes more than once, and then at railroad speed.</p><P>I am determined to be one of those few, and allow myself time to know the valley.  One great inducement to remain is the prospect of the azaleas.  The first morning we started to explore, we passed through thickets of leafless shrubs, which instantly caught my attention, as being assuredly the fragrant pale-yellow azalea of our shrubberies.  My companions thought it was impossible; but, on inquiry, we learn that it is so, and that a month hence the whole air will be perfumed by them.  That of itself would be worth waiting for; for though I have wandered through groves of scarlet tree-rhododendrons in the Himalayas and in Ceylon, I have never yet been in a land of wild azalea, and there are few flowers I love so well.</p><P>I have not seen any indication of rhododendrons in this part of California, but I am told that in the north-west, in Humboldt county and its surroundings, there are great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:districts gorgeous with these gay shrubs where the hill-sides are clothed with a dense mass of rich colour, but of course lack the enchanting fragrance of the azalea-thickets, which extend far to the southward.</p><P>Our chief expedition hitherto has been to the summit of the Great Yo-semite&acute; Fall.  The only practicable route by which to reach the foot of the upper fall is a very circuitous one, retracing the valley till you ascend zigzaging through a belt of beautiful pines, and so gradually gain the high level.  The views at every turn were magnificent; each fresh aspect of the wonderful falls helped us more and more to realise their might and majesty.  Can you picture them ever so faintly?--the flashing, foaming cataract, tumbling almost perpendicularly for half a mile from the brink to the base; first the wild leap of 1500 feet, dashing headlong into the cup worn by its own action in the hard granite rock, then chafing madly among the fallen boulders ere it rushes to the second ledge, ready to repeat the leap.</p><P>You look up at the never-ceasing shower of water-rockets, till your eyes are dazzled with their gleaming white, and rest thankfully on the pure blue heaven from which they seem to fall; and the floating spray makes mist among the dark pines, till a gleam of sunlight transforms it to a glittering shower of shattered diamonds.</p><P>When we reached the base of the upper fall we dismounted, and scrambling over masses of rock, piled in chaos as they fell from the upper crags, we reached a great boulder, just beyond reach of the spray, and there sat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:gazing up at the living waters, ever falling, falling, in thousands of separate tongues of foam.  Some say it is like a waving plume of snowy feathers, but to me the form of inverted fire-rockets is the only one really descriptive.  Sometimes each rushes singly, preserving its perfect form, while others are dispersed in mid-career by the rushing breeze.</p><P>In presence of that rocket-shower, falling from a height of 1600 feet, what dainty miniatures our favourite British waterfalls do seem!  I suppose lovely Foyers is our finest fall in Scotland; but when reduced to figures, its height is only 212 feet.  The falls of Bruar are 200 feet.  The falls of the Rhine, 100 feet.  And even the far-famed Staubbach only attains 900 feet.</p><P>You do not realise the full majesty of this most worshipful monarch of the water-gods till you have crept meekly to his feet, as we did, and there remain spellbound, over-awed by the glory of the scene, the sense of the irresistible power of that headlong rush of bright gleaming waters.  The utter restlessness of their ceaseless motion, and their thunderous roar as they strike the rocky basin far below, soon become overpowering--eyes and brain are alike bewildered; and besides the direct downward movement, spirit-like clouds of spray float around, drifting with every current of wind, softening the too dazzling brightness of the white foam, but adding to the giddy, complex motion of the whole.</p><P>The face of the great crag overhangs a little, so that, as the waters are thrown forward, they leave a dry space <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:behind the fall at the base of the cliff--a long broad passage, where those who are so inclined can enter, and standing behind the curtain of falling waters, can listen to the rushing wind, and try how near danger they can venture without accident.  When only a light summer stream is falling, and the sun shining on it, the effect produced is that of a shimmering shower of diamonds.  Now, however, when the snow-flood is so heavy, a visit to this strange spot would be risky, and the approach to it would involve a drenching from the heavy spray, so we were nowise tempted; but tearing ourselves away from this beautiful and most fascinating spot, we commenced the steep ascent through Comimi Canyon.</p><P>The trail is led up by such innumerable zigzags, that a tolerably easy grade has been attained, and my sturdy and heavily weighted pony climbed up without the slightest hesitation.  What with excavations in some places, and building up rock foundation in others, the tracing and making of such a trail, and then the constant repairs consequent on falling rocks or melting snows, imply both genius and ceaseless care.</p><P>The canyon heads actually at the summit of the falls, and there seems no sort of reason why the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Creek should not have rushed down the slope, instead of selecting the headlong course which it has adopted--for which, however, we are all most deeply grateful to it.</p><P>By its ceaseless friction, it has so polished the granite rock over which it falls, that to attempt a near approach is just like walking on ice.  It is horribly dangerous, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the first slip would inevitably prove the last.  Yet the fascination is irresistible, so I crawled to the brink on hands and knees, and there lay watching the curve of the glittering waters as they rushed past me on their headlong leap, down, down, down, till the abyss of white foam was merged in the ever-swaying, ever-varying cloud of spray, while a thousand mingling echoes rose from the rocky world below.  It was awesome beyond all words.  Far, far beneath us, faintly seen through the floating mists, the valley lay bathed in sunlight, like a dream of some other world.</p><P>The Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Creek is a snow-fed stream which rises on the west side of the alpine group, of which Mount Hoffmann is chief, lying about ten miles north-east of the valley.  Its course lies over a bed of bare granite rock; and as it is fed exclusively by the melting snow, it follows that, as the season advances, it must shrink to a most insignificant rivulet.</p><P>At this high level the snow is still lying deep in the unsunned gorges.  Yesterday there was a "flurry," followed by a night of frost, and a light powdering of glittering snow-crystals still sparkles in the bright sunlight, marking the intricate tracery of the leafless boughs.  Every grassy reed is snow-tipped, and snow-feathers lie softly on the drooping brambles and the rich brown tufts of lichen.</p><P>We were anxious to reach a high point known as Eagle's Peak (4000 feet above the valley), which commands a magnificent view of the Sierras on every side.  But as we ascended, the snow became deeper and deeper; so, as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:ride was neither safe nor pleasant, we agreed to defer it till the season was further advanced.</p><P>As it was, we saw several fine snow-peaks in the distance, and gained a better idea of the relative size of the giant crags around us, especially of the stupendous granite Domes.  This bird's-eye view also enabled us to realise the true geological aspect of the valley itself,--as a huge sunken pit--no chasm, but the blank left by a portion of the earth's surface having actually subsided.</p><P>I am told that several valleys have been discovered in these Sierras somewhat similar to this, so that the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; is only unique in point of size.</p><P>Indeed, such geological <HI REND="italics">faults</HI>
127.sgm: as have formed this very singular depression exist in many countries.  We saw two notable examples in the Blue Mountains of Australia, where two gigantic pits occur, known as Govat's Leap and the Weatherboard, at each of which we stood on the brink of a deep gorge enclosed by vertical cliffs as steep as these, and looked down on the crowns of giant ferns and trees, lying apparently 2000 feet below us, a sanctuary untrodden by human foot.  But those cliffs of reddish sandstone do not give you the same feeling of solidity and strength as these granite crags, which fill you with ever-increasing wonder the longer you look upon them.</p><P>Mr John Muir describes several lovely valleys of the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; type farther to the south, in the heart of that "rugged wilderness of peaks and canyons, where the foaming tributaries of the San Joaquin and King's rivers take their rise."  He found the most beautiful of them all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:near the source of the former--a canyon two miles long and half a mile broad, hemmed in by perpendicular granite crags, and the crystal river flowing through peaceful groves and meadows, haunted by deer and grouse and joyous singing-birds.</p><P>Thence he passed into a wilder, narrower gorge, with walls rising perpendicularly from 2000 to 4000 feet above the roaring river.  "At the head of the valley the main canyon forks, <HI REND="italics">as is found to be the case in all Yo&macr;semite&acute;s</HI>
127.sgm:."</p><P>Mr Muir, however, attributes the formation of that valley to the action of two vast ice-rivers in the glacial period.  But now the free, beautiful San Joaquin river, new-born from its glacial fountain, enters the valley in a glorious cascade, its glad waters overleaping granite crags 2000 feet in height.</p><P>Truly these Californian Alps hold treasures of delight for lovers of all beautiful nature who, on their parts, can bring strength and energy for mountaineering--a sure foot, a steady head, and any amount of endurance.</p><P>With respect to the marvellous rounded Domes, I am told that there are dome-shaped masses in all regions where granite prevails, but that they are found in the Sierra Nevada on a grander scale than elsewhere.  The only thing altogether unique is the Split Dome.  The North Dome on the opposite side of the valley has many near relations.  They are built up of thick layers of granite--huge concentric plates overlapping one another in some places, so as to render them inaccessible.  Some of these granite flakes are about twenty feet thick, others <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:only three or four feet, and they are curved much in the same way as the basaltic pillars in some of the caves in the Isle of Skye<ANCHOR ID="n6-14">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: and on the Irish coast; but there is nothing columnar in their appearance, which is rather suggestive of armour-plating, and reminds me of the scales of the armadillo.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-14">See illustration, `In the Hebrides' (C. F. Gordon Cumming), p. 380.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>I am told that this peculiar formation is due to the combined work of fire and frost, and that the granite layers were curved by the vast weight of ice as the glaciers passed over them.  Some one else tells me that the granite took these curves during the process of cooling, and that the glaciers merely polished the outer surface as they passed over the mountains, grinding and furrowing them with deep seams, caused by the gravel and rocks they carried with them--a remarkably coarse form of sand-paper, applied with a very heavy hand!  I believe the latter is the most generally accepted theory.</p><P>The North Dome is lower by 1000 feet than its <HI REND="italics">vis-a&grave;-vis</HI>
127.sgm:.  Its actual height above the valley is 3725 feet.  It is built up on the summit of "The Royal Arches," and the whole is quite suggestive of the great marble archway and silvery-grey cupola of some vast Eastern shrine.  On the side facing the valley, the great flakes so overhang one another, that this mountain, though apparently forming an easy curve, is practically inaccessible from that direction; but on the north side it slopes away easily in a long ridge, easy of ascent.</p><P>But the Split Dome is a very different matter.  While <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the side facing the valley is, as I have told you, absolutely vertical, showing where the massive mountain of rock was cleft in twain, the remaining half presents a rounded summit, sloping downward at a very steep incline, which becomes steeper and steeper as it descends, till at the base it becomes quite precipitous.</p><P>For many years it was considered altogether inaccessible; but about eighteen months ago it was scaled by an energetic, determined Scotchman, George Anderson by name.  He hails from Montrose, but has taken up his abode in this beautiful valley; and now he looks on the Half-Dome with such mingled pride and veneration, that I should think he will never leave it.</p><P>It was in 1875 that he determined to reach the summit, if mortal man could accomplish the feat.  Climbing goat-like along dizzy ledges, and clinging like a fly to every crevice that could afford him foothold, he reached the point where hitherto the boldest cragsman had been foiled.  Here he halted till he had drilled a hole in the rock and securely fixed an iron stanchion with an eye-bolt, through which he passed a strong rope.  Then resting on this frail support, he was able to reach farther, and to drill a second hole and fix another eye-bolt.  From this point of vantage he could secure a third, carrying the rope through every bolt, and always securing it at the upper end.</p><P>Thus step by step he crept upward, till at last he had drilled holes and driven in iron stanchions right up the vast granite slab, securing 1100 feet of rope.  Then rounding the mighty shoulder, he stood triumphant on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:summit, and there to his amazement he found a level space of about seven acres, where not only grasses have spread a green carpet, but seven gnarled and stunted old pines, of three different kinds, have contrived to take root, and, defying storms and tempests, maintain their existence on this bleak bare summit.</p><P>Having thus made the ascent a possibility, Anderson's delight now is to induce enterprising climbers to draw themselves up by his rope ferry, the manner of proceeding being to keep one foot on either side of the rope, and, retaining a good grip of the rope itself, gradually to haul one's self up to the summit, there remain for a while lost in wonder at the grand bird's-eye view, and then climb down backwards.</p><P>It is all right so long as most of the stanchions stand firm and the rope does not break; but should this simple accident occur, there would not be the faintest possibility of rescue,--indeed it would be no easy task to recover the battered and mutilated remains of any poor wretch who might fall from that majestic dome.  A leap from the summit of St Paul's would be child's-play in comparison.  A man troubled with suicidal mania would find it hard to look down from a precipice a sheer fall of 5000 feet, and resist the temptation to cast himself down.</p><P>I give you the altitude of all these grand crags and mountains, because I know no better way of conveying to you some standard of their glory; and yet, how utterly useless figures really are to enable any one to realise such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:subjects!  A quaint American writer<ANCHOR ID="n6-15">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: remarks, that "it is much as if, when the three angels made a call at Abraham's tent on the plains of Mamre, the patriarch had whipped out a two-foot rule, and measured and written down the length of their wings!!"</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-15">Benjamin F. Taylor.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>The same writer makes short work of all learned theories concerning this grand valley.  He says: "As for the three great geological theories of this cleft's formation,--1st, that the bottom fell out and let things down; 2d, that earthquakes and volcanic fires melted the crags and rent them asunder; 3d, that the softer and more edible parts of rock and mountain were eaten out by rains and frosts and rivers, leaving the stupendous bones bleaching through the centuries,--you would not toss coppers for the choice of them.  All you know is, that you are in a tremendous rock-jawed yawn of the globe; and the most you hope is, that it will keep on yawning till you are safely out of its mouth!"</p><P>In describing the South Dome, he compares it to a sugar-loaf-shaped human head: "Its organ of veneration is tremendous; there are six or eight acres of it, 6000 feet high, and solid rock through and through!"</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>A COTTAGE HOTEL--THE VILLAGE--YOUNG STUDENTS--THE CASCADES--DIGGER INDIAN CAMP--PRIMITIVE MAN--ACORN-FLOUR--EDIBLE PINES--INDIAN AGENCIES--THE MODOC WAR.</p><P>BARNARD'S HOTEL, 8 <HI REND="italics">th May</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>OUR naval friend and the Cashmerian sportsman having been obliged to return to the low country, we have carried out our original intention, and forsaking the Union-Jack for the Stars and Stripes, have established ourselves at this pleasant little wooden bungalow, about a mile farther up the valley, and on the river--a beautiful situation.  This was the site of the old original house, built by Mr Hutchings--one of the first white men who set foot in the valley, and who published accounts of it and opened it up to the world.  Entranced with its beauty, he brought a lovely young wife to settle here, and his were the first white children born in the valley.<ANCHOR ID="n7-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-11">Strange to tell, when in after-years Florence, the first-born--a bright, joyous girl--returned to the valley on a visit to her friend Effie Barnard in the autumn of 1881, the Angel of Death took both these happy young lives within a few days of one another--the first-fruits gathered by the Great Reaper in this secluded harvest-field.  So the two girls lie side by side beneath the old oaks in the valley, so dear to both; and the sighing winds, and the murmuring waterfalls, and the twilight calls of the turtledoves, sing their requiems for evermore.</NOTE>
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127.sgm:<P>All arrangements here are of the simplest--quite comfortable, but nothing fine.  The main bungalow, which is surrounded by a wide verandah, has on the ground-floor a minute post-office, booking-office, and bar; a large diningroom, with a row of windows on each side, occupies almost the entire space, and opens at the farther end into a clean tidy kitchen, where a Chinese cook attends to our comfort.</p><P>An outside staircase leads to another wide verandah running round the upper storey, which consists entirely of bedrooms.  A separate wooden house stands just beyond it--also two-storeyed--and all divided into minute sleeping-rooms.  I have chosen one of these, as it commands a splendid view of the falls; and from the earliest dawn I can watch their dream-like loveliness in every changing effect of light--sunshine and storm alike minister to their beauty.</p><P>It must be confessed that the rooms are rough-and-ready; and the partitions apparently consist of sheets of brown paper, so that every word spoken in one room is heard in all the others!  I am so well accustomed to this peculiarity from long residence in the tropics (where ventilation is secured by only running partitions to within a foot of the ceiling), that it does not trouble me much, but must be somewhat startling to the unaccustomed ear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:which finds itself unwillingly compelled to share the varied conversation of the inmates of neighbouring stalls!  I confess that last night I was forcibly reminded of the story of the man who snored so loud that he couldn't get to sleep, so had to rise and go into another room that he mightn't hear himself!</p><P>On the opposite side of the road is the Big Tree Room, which is the public sitting-room, and takes its name from a quaint conceit--namely, that rather than fell a fine large cedar which stood in the way of the house, Mr Hutchings built so as to enclose it, and its great red stem now occupies a large corner of the room!  Of course it is considered a very great curiosity, and all new-comers examine it with as much interest and care as if it were something quite different from all its brethren in the outer air!  It certainly is rather an odd inmate for a house, though not, as its name might suggest, a <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>It stands near the great open fireplace, where, in the still somewhat chilly evenings, we gather round a cheery fire of pitch-pine logs, which crackle and fizz and splutter, as the resinous pine-knots blaze up, throwing off showers of merry red sparks.  It is a real old-fashioned fireplace, with stout andirons such as we see in old English halls.  Round such a log-fire, and in such surroundings, all stiffness seems to melt away; and the various wanderers who have spent the day exploring scenes of beauty and wonder, grow quite sympathetic as they exchange notes of the marvels they have beheld.</p><P>Beyond the Big Tree Room, half hidden among huge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:mossy boulders and tall pines, stands a charming little cottage, which is generally assigned to any family or party likely to remain some time.</p><P>At a little distance, nestling among rocks or overshadowed by big oaks, lies a small village of little shanties and stores ( <HI REND="italics">alias</HI>
127.sgm: shops),--a store where you can buy dry goods and clothing on a moderate scale--a blacksmith's forge--a shop where a neat-handed German sells beautifully finished specimens of Californian woodwork of his own manufacture, and walking-sticks made of the rich claret-coloured manganita.  Then there are cottages for the guides and horsekeepers, and an office for Wells Fargo's invaluable Express Company, which delivers parcels all over America (I believe I may say all over the world).  There is even a telegraph office, which, I confess, I view with small affection.  It seems so incongruous to have messages from the bustling outer world flashed into the heart of the great solemn Sierras.</p><P>As a matter of course, this glorious scenery attracts sundry photographers.  The great Mr Watkins, whose beautiful work first proved to the world that no word-painting could approach the reality of its loveliness, is here with a large photographic waggon.  But a minor star has set up a tiny studio, where he offers to immortalise all visitors by posing them as the foreground of the Great Falls!</p><P>And last, but certainly not least, are Mr Haye's baths for ladies and for gentlemen, got up regardless of expense, in the most luxurious style.  The attractions of the baths <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:are greatly enhanced by the excellence of the iced drinks compounded at the bar of such a bright, pleasant-looking billiard-room, that I do not much wonder that the tired men (who, in the dining-room, appear in the light of strict teetotallers, as seems to be the custom at Californian <HI REND="italics">tables d'ho&circ;te</HI>
127.sgm: ) do find strength left for evening billiards! with a running accompaniment of "brandy-cocktails," "gin-slings," "barber's poles," "eye-openers," "mint-julep," "Sampson with the hair on," "corpse-revivers," "rattlesnakes," and other potent combinations.</p><P>Mr Haye's special joy and pride is in a certain Grand Register, in which all visitors to the valley are expected to inscribe their names.  It is a huge, ponderous book, about a foot thick, morocco-bound, and mounted and clasped with silver.  It is <HI REND="italics">said</HI>
127.sgm: to have cost 800 dollars.  It is divided into portions for every State in the Union, and for every country in the world beyond; so that each man, woman, and child may sign in his own locality, and so record the fact of his visit, for the enlightenment of his own countrymen.</p><P>The entries include names from every corner of the earth.  Already the stream of visitors is setting in, and a few days hence all the hotels expect to be well filled for their short season of about three months, during which many Californians take their annual holiday.  After that, though the autumn is glorious, only a few real travellers find their way here.</p><P>Considering that people in these parts must be pretty well accustomed to every variety of nation and of raiment, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:I am much amused by the amount of attention bestowed on Mr David's apparel, which is simply that of the ordinary British sportsman--a sensible tweed suit.  The day we left San Francisco, we were "riding in a tram-car," when a man got in, and straightway his eyes were riveted, first by the stout-ribbed woollen stockings, woven by a fine "canty" old wife in the north of Scotland, and then by the strong British shooting-boots, with their goodly array of large nails.  Not a word did he utter till he was in the act of leaving the car, when he could refrain no longer, but slowly and emphatically remarked, "Well, sir, I guess I'd rather not get a kick from <HI REND="italics">your</HI>
127.sgm: boots!"</p><P>This morning a small boy, seeing me sketching near the school, came up to inspect us.  After a leisurely survey of Mr David's garb, he solemnly--apparently not with cheeky intention--remarked, "I say, mister, are not your pants rather short?"  Evidently knickerbockers were a new revelation to his youthful mind--accustomed only to see full-length trousers stuffed into high jack-boots.</p><P>The small boy was laden with school-books, one of which was a very large volume of American history.  As each State already furnishes a separate section as large as an average school-history of any country in Europe, it follows that the complete work must be the size of an encyclopedia; and I felt considerable pity for the unlucky rising generation who have so large a dish to digest.  However, they are apparently not much troubled by the ancient or modern history of other countries.</p><P>Our little friend, having been joined by several sisters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:(clustered on a tall horse, and all laden with school-books), the family party volunteered to favour us with some choral hymns.  If not strictly musical, the effort was kindly and characteristic.  This done, all climbed on to the tall horse, and, crossing the river at the ford, went on their way rejoicing.</p><P>Among the early arrivals in the valley are two very pleasant Englishmen, who have just been doing a very interesting riding tour in Mexico.  They prove to be "friend's friends;" and to-day we joined forces on an expedition for some miles down the beautiul river (which flows so calmly and peacefully through these quiet meadows), to the spot where it begins a rapid descent, chafing and wrestling with great boulders, rushing headlong on its downward way, raging and roaring--a tumultuous chaos of foaming waters.  These rapids extend for a considerable distance, passing by beautiful groups of old pines and other noble timber, and, in fact, are the feature of the expedition.</p><P>But our actual destination was a lovely little fall known as "The Cascade," where a minor stream comes leaping over the cliffs in a succession of broken falls, flashing in and out among the beautifully wooded crags, till, with one joyous bound, it lands in a small secluded meadow, across which it glides in a clear sparkling stream.</p><P>Here we unpacked the luncheon-basket, which had been slung on to one of the ponies, and, with the flower-sprinkled turf for a table-cloth, and a cloudless blue heaven overhead, we concluded that our mutton <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<illus entity="a127-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INDIAN CAMP BESIDE THE MERCED RIVER.  NORTH AND SOUTH DOMES.</p></CAPTION>
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127.sgm:sandwiches were a royal feast.  I think no one could help enjoying life in such beautiful surroundings, and in this clear, crisp, sunny atmosphere.  Every one wakes in the morning feeling up to anything, and day after day the fine weather continues, and will do so (say the old inhabitants) for months to come!  What a delightful climate!</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday</HI>
127.sgm:, 9 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>I have been all day sketching a most picturesque, but unspeakably filthy, Indian camp, of conical bark-huts.  It is pitched about a mile from here, on a lovely quiet reach of the river, sheltered by grand old trees, and with the mighty Domes towering overhead.  If beautiful clean Nature could preach her own lessons, she might surely do so here; but a dirtier and more degraded-looking race than these wretched Digger Indians I have rarely seen--nowhere, in fact, except in Australia, whose aboriginal blacks are, I think, entitled to the very lowest place.</p><P>These Digger Indians are a small race; their tallest men do not seem up to the standard of average whites.  All have a thick mop of the most unkempt, long, lanky black hair.  The men sometimes wear long braids; the squaws cut theirs across the forehead, in a fashionable fringe.  They have square, flat faces, with mouths opening from ear to ear like night-jars.  Some of the men embellish their faces with streaks of vermilion; but where, oh where! are the ideal war-paint and feathers?  Most of them wear dirty tattered old woollen clothes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:probably cast off by campers, and eked out with a certain amount of peltry, filthy beyond description.  Some, however, are dressed in suits of half-tanned leather, embroidered with beads, and a few dandies have Spanish-looking felt hats, and bright-coloured handkerchiefs thrown over their shoulders.  These are the wealthier members of the community, and ride about on small ponies, the squaws riding "straddle-legs" ( <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
127.sgm:., astride).  Rope-halters fastened round the lower jaw act as efficient bridles.</p><P>Some of my friends had the good fortune to witness a Digger Indian festival, when about a hundred of these strange beings assembled for a solemn dance.  They formed in a large ring, and moved slowly round and round, with a jiggy springing step.  There did not seem to be any characteristic feature in the dance, and certainly no grace.  The dancers, however, seemed thoroughly to enjoy themselves, and it appears that this is a favourite evening amusement.  One solitary mortal may begin jigging all by himself, to the music of his own howls, and straightway others catch the infection, and set to dancing each by himself, and so continue for hours.</p><P>I am told that some of the tribes periodically hold great religious "medicine dances," which are danced by chosen warriors, for the good of the whole tribe, and kept up for three days and nights without one moment's intermission for any purpose whatever, and not a morsel of food, nor one drop of water, is allowed to pass the lips of the men selected for this ordeal.  It is a feat of endurance which is never required of any warrior more than once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:in his life, and few are able to endure to the end of the dance.  Some, indeed, endure to the death; but for a dancer to die is esteemed terribly "bad medicine," an augury of disaster for the tribe.  It is, however, quite common for men to fall fainting from exhaustion, and be carried out of the medicine-lodge insensible.</p><P>The word "medicine," as here used, has reference to divination, by which all details of daily life are regulated.  The movements of a rattlesnake, the flight of a bird, the cry of a wild beast, are interpreted as heralding good or bad luck, and are recognised as good or bad medicine.  No Indian will start on a journey or a hunting expedition, without first "making medicine."  He takes certain bones of divers reptiles, birds, or animals, the ashes of some lucky plants, and portions of coloured sand or earth; these and many other unkown ingredients are stirred together in a flat vessel, and from the manner in which they blend, the Indians read woe or success in the enterprise.  If the former, he carries the bad medicine outside the camp and buries it, lest any one should touch it.  If it is good, he makes up little packets of it in pouches of dressed deer-skin--precious amulets--to be worn by men, women, and children.  When all the pouches have been filled, what remains of the mixture is burned on the domestic hearth.</p><P>As yet I have not found any of these Digger Indians who can speak a word of English.</p><P>They carry their babies slung over their shoulders, in wicker cradles, the whole weight being supported by a strap passed across the maternal forehead.  What <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:headaches this suggests!  The cradles consist only of a flat back of basket-work, with a flap down each side, and a projecting hood shaped like that of a perambulator, to shield the head of the little papoose from the sun, and also to protect it from possible tumbles.  The fat little reddish-brown baby is laid naked on its basket, with a soft covering of easily changed moss spread as mattress and blanket: perhaps a small shawl is laid over the moss.  The baby's arms are tucked down by its sides, and the flaps are tied or laced across the front.  Sometimes the arms are allowed to hang loose, but this is exceptional.</p><P>The creatures look just like mummies (the outer mummy-case!), and gaze forth at the world with dark eyes, as solemn and unresponsive as if they already realised their heritage of woe.  Their long black hair and flat faces add to their unbabyish appearance, and altogether they are queer little mortals.</p><P>When the mothers are busy, the papoose in its cradle is suspended, like some odd parcel, from the branch of a tree, beside the drying bear-skins.  There it hangs safe out of harm's way--especially out of reach of the inquisitive dogs, who are always prowling silently about.  One of these sneaked up to me to-day, and on my rashly giving it a biscuit, it made a dash at my packet of sandwiches, and scampered off rejoicing, with this dainty bite.</p><P>The wigwams are of the very rudest description, consisting only of long strips of thick pine-bark, piled up like a pyramid, and with flaps of deer-skin to curtain the door at night, and various old skins pegged down over the bark <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:to keep out the wind.  Of rain at this season there is little fear.  A fire is kindled in the middle of this barktent, and the blue smoke escapes by a hole at the top, contrasting charmingly with the rich sienna and brown tones of the bark.</p><P>The filth of the surroundings is such that I have never ventured to peep inside one of these picturesque but most univiting homes, though we have visited several little encampments, and have watched hideous old crones weaving the most beautiful baskets, and smoking like chimneys--the ideal of bliss!  The poetic Indian calumet of old stories is unfortunately replaced by the invariable clay pipe--dear alike to men and women!</p><P>To-day, while I was sketching the camp, several of the men had thrown their scarlet Government blankets round them, and I blessed them for the bit of colour.  They were gambling with exceedingly dirty old cards, which seems to be their only occupation when not engaged in foraging.</p><P>They are very successful fishers, and generally camp near some clear trout-stream.  The hotels secure a ready market for all they bring, and these Merced trout are certainly most delicious.  As these are almost their only marketable property, I fear they cannot often enjoy them themselves--indeed they consider all fish insipid, and only eat it when they have nothing else.  Their fishing-tackle does not involve much outlay.  A light hazel-rod cut from the bank, a casting-line, and a few green grasshoppers or worms as bait, are all they need to beguile the bonnie <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:trout.  The worms are occasionally carried in their mouths as the simplest and safest method of conveyance!</p><P>They are too abjectly poor to be dainty feeders, and, as their name implies, they live partly by digging up edible wild roots, with an occasional broiled snake, frog, or lizard, or a handful of roast grasshoppers as a relish; sometimes they are reduced to eating carrion-birds, but are said to have a prejudice against magpies and wild turkeys, the latter from a belief that eating their flesh will make them cowardly.</p><P>Now and then they organise hunting expeditions, and go off in search of bears or deer; and great is the joy of women and children when they chance to be, if not in at the death, at least sufficiently near to claim their share at the "gralloching" (as we say in the Highlands), which here becomes a loathsome festival, at which all contend for a drink of warm blood, and for favourite portions of the intestines.  Heart, liver, lungs, stomach, entrails--all are eagerly snatched, and, all raw and bleeding, are swallowed with the utmost enjoyment.  Happy, indeed, is the maiden whose lover secures for her two or three yards of entrails (the Indian equivalent for the Parisian <HI REND="italics">bonbonnie&grave;re</HI>
127.sgm: ); scarcely can she spare a moment to go through the pretence of cleaning--then the hideous coil disappears down the omnivorous throat.</p><P>When all that we term offal has been thus consumed, the prize is triumphantly carried into camp.  Strips of meat and of fat are hung up to dry for winter use, and the skins are prepared for clothing or for sale.  I saw several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:skins hanging about the trees in camp this morning, and we hear that there are some bears in the neighbourhood now, but we are not likely to have the luck of seeing them.</p><P>As a substitute for the too expensive luxury of wheat-flour, these poor creatures manufacture a sort of coarse acorn flour or meal; and very bitter bread must be the result.  As soon as the acorns are ripe, they set to work systematically to harvest them, ere the woodpeckers, squirrels, and mice can do so.  They construct very tall cylindrical wicker-baskets, covered all over with a thick thatch of oak or fir twigs.  These are called <HI REND="italics">cachets</HI>
127.sgm: (which, I suppose, means a hiding-place, though whether the word was of foreign derivation or purely Indian, I cannot say).  But wherever a cluster of bark-wigwams have been erected, there invariably are several of these tall baskets, like most attenuated corn-stacks.</p><P>These are the storehouses--the granaries of these frugal beings.  When at leisure, they crack the acorns, and pick out the kernels, ready for use.  When required, they pound them with a smooth water-worn stone on a flat granite slab; and near every favourite camping-ground, there are generally some such slabs, deeply indented with cup-marks, very much the same as some of those which puzzle our learned antiquaries, and which may possibly be nothing more than traces of a time when our own ancestors pounded the acorns of British oaks, and made bitter porridge like that of these poor Indians.</p><P>To-day I watched the whole process of manufacture, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:which is primitive to a degree, and seemed like a glimpse of domestic life in the stone age.  No trace of iron was there--not even a cooking-pot.  The girls having prepared their acorn-meal in the rock cups (the meal being largely mingled with granite dust), they left it to steep in cold water, to get rid of some of the bitterness, while they were building up a huge pie-dish or basin of river-sand.  This they lined with fine gravel, and placed the powdered acorns in this rude dish.  Meanwhile others had filled their water-tight baskets--which are a triumph of art, so closely woven that not a drop of water can escape.</p><P>But how were they to boil the water for their cooking?  That difficulty also was simply overcome.  A large fire had been kindled, and a number of stones the size of your fist thrown in to bake.  When they were thoroughly heated they were lifted out by a woman, holding two sticks in lieu of a pair of tongs, and were dropped into a small basket of water, which hissed and spluttered, and became black and sooty.  After this preliminary washing, the hot stones were fished out and deposited in the large water-basket which acted the part of kettle.  Though somewhat cooled by this double process, the stones soon heated the water to a certain extent.</p><P>A very small quantity of this tepid, singed fluid was then poured on the acorn-flour, some of which was made into paste and taken out to be baked as cakes.  More water was added.  A green fern-leaf was laid over the flour, apparently to enable the pouring to be done more gently--and so a large mess of porridge was prepared, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:ladled out in baskets.  Then--that nothing might be wasted--the gravel was taken out and washed, to save the flour still adhering to it.</p><P>This acorn-paste becomes glutinous, and is eaten in the same way that the Pacific Islanders eat <HI REND="italics">poi</HI>
127.sgm:, by dipping in a finger, twirling it round, and so landing it in the mouth.</p><P>The oak and pine forests yield the principal food-supply of these children of the Sierras.  The commonest nut-bearing pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus Sabiniana</HI>
127.sgm:, commonly called the Digger-Pine) grows only on the lower hills, at an altitude of from 500 to 4000 feet above the sea.  It seems to require great heat.  We saw a good many on our way to Mariposa.</p><P>At first sight you would scarcely recognise it as being a pine-tree, so different is its growth from the ordinary stiffness of the family.  Instead of all branches diverging from one straight main stem, perhaps 200 feet high, this little pine only attains a height of about 50 feet--the stem having at the base a diameter of from two to three feet.  It shoots upright for about twelve or fifteen feet, and then divides into half-a-dozen branches, which grow in a loose irregular manner--generally, but not invariably, with an upward tendency.</p><P>From thence droop the secondary boughs, with pendent tassels of very long greenish-grey needles: they are often a foot in length, and form the lightest, airiest of foliage, casting little or no shade.</p><P>From each bunch of needles hangs a cluster of beautiful cones, which in autumn are of a rich chocolate colour.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:They grow to a length of about eight inches, and are thick in proportion.  Both squirrels and bears climb the highest branches in search of these, well knowing what dainty morsels lie hidden within the armour-plated exterior of strong hooked scales.  By diligent nibbling, even the little squirrels manage to extract the nuts; but the Indians simplify this labour by the use of fire.</p><P>They climb the trees, and beat off the cones, or (more reckless than the bears) chop off the boughs with their hatchets.  Then, collecting the cones, they roast them in the wood-ashes, till the protecting scales burst open, when they can pick out the nuts at their leisure, and crack their hard inner shells as they lie round their camp-fires at night, or bask idly in the sunlight through the long summer day.  It is dirty work, owing to the sticky resin which oozes freely from the cones and branches, and adheres tenaciously to clothes and hands; nor is the cleanliness of the camp improved by every man, woman, and child handling the charred and blackened nuts.</p><P>But when it comes to a question of cleanliness, perhaps a little charcoal would be rather an improvement in an Indian camp!</p><P>Another tree which is valuable to the Indians as an item of food, is the <HI REND="italics">Pinus Fremontiana</HI>
127.sgm:, a stumpy little pine, rarely exceeding twenty feet in height, or forming a stem more than one foot in diameter.  Its crooked, irregular branches bear a very large crop of small cones, about two inches long, each containing several edible kernels about the size of hazel-nuts, and pleasant to the taste.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:They are exceedingly nutritious, and are so abundant in certain districts that a diligent picker can gather about forty bushels in a season.  Consequently it is a really valuable tree, and the Indians justly regard it as the food provided by the Great Father for their special use; and many a story of bloody revenge taken by the red men against the aggressive whites has been traced to the wanton destruction of these food-producing trees by the lumberers and settlers.</p><P>This Nut-pine, like the Digger-pine, keeps its succulent kernels so securely embedded in their hard outer case, that it requires the action of fire to force open the scales within which they lie concealed.  It is found chiefly on the eastern foot-ranges of the Sierras, in the districts where the Carson river and Mono Indians still dwell, and does not seem to require so much heat as the Sabiniana, as it bears fruit abundantly at an altitude of 8000 feet, whereas its larger kinsman is rarely, if ever, found higher than 4000 feet above the sea-level.</p><P>This Indian gipsy camp naturally forms a fruitful topic of conversation, and leads to many animated discussions between those men who consider all Indians "a race of scoundrels--a nation who must be obliterated from the earth!" and others who see in them a race unjustly despoiled of their heritage, and whose degradation has been certainly not lessened by the invasion of the whites.</p><P>I hear many statements made, and not denied, greatly to the discredit of the Indian Agency, which is described as the most unrighteous of the many corrupt official <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:bodies.  And it is through their hands that the Government "charity" is now doled out to the tribes whom the white man has pauperised.</p><P>It was stated, not long ago, that out of 35,000 dollars a-year, voted for compensation to the Indians, not more than twenty per cent <HI REND="italics">ever</HI>
127.sgm: reached them, but in the majority of cases five per cent was a fair estimate.  The rest either adhered to the hands of the agents, or was squandered by their mismanagement.  And it is a well-known fact that the little that does reach the Indians does so in the form of spoilt flour, shoddy cloth, indifferent blankets, and firearms, the latter only too good, considering how often their game is human.  Moreover, notwithstanding Government prohibition, they are much encouraged to purchase from the white dealers a true fire-water with large admixture of vitriol--a poor exchange for their happy hunting-grounds, where the pale-faces are now reaping their golden harvests.</p><P>Among the gentlemen most keenly interested in all Indian questions there is one who happened to be visiting the Lava-beds soon after the Modoc war of extermination, and his details of that sad story are most distressing.</p><P>He went all over the ground which was the scene of the last struggle, his object being to trace the Sacramento river to its source amid the glaciers of Mount Shasta--that magnificent peak, whose summit is crowned with eternal snows, while round its base hot sulphur and soda springs tell of still dormant fires.</p><P>Small extinct craters cluster round the broad base of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the giant cone, and have doubtless done their part in the formation of the Lava-beds, which formed the last stronghold of the Modoc Indians.  They extend along the margin of the Great Tule&acute;, or Reed Lake, so called because of its sedgy shores.  It is one of a group of large lakes--Clear Lake, Klamath Lake, and Goose Lake--lying 6000 feet above the sea.  The ground around is white with alkali, and only stunted cedars and uninviting sage-bush can exist.</p><P>When white men saw and coveted the fertile lands in the Sacramento Valley, the red men were driven back farther and farther into the mountains.  Their hunting-grounds were taken possession of, and they themselves compelled to retreat to the grounds "reserved" for them (grounds too poor for white men to grudge to the proprietors of the soil), where the wretched sage-bush is shunned by the deer, and even the streams are without fish.</p><P>Driven back ever farther and farther, the wretched Modocs at last reached "the reservation lands," lying east of the Great Klamath Lake--a country so arid that they could not support life.  So they ate their horses, and then, driven to desperation, returned to their old haunts near Lake Tule&acute;, resolved thence to make one last effort to recover their lands or die in the attempt.</p><P>Thereupon followed the Modoc war.  In old days, white men had made a pastime of shooting Indians as they would vermin; and there were some who openly boasted of having shot a hundred or more to their own gun as their season's sport.  But this was when the Indians only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:possessed bows and arrows.  Now they had pistols and good breech-loading rifles, which they had captured in various raids--moreover, they were first-rate marksmen; so the case was different, and though there were but a handful of Modocs, numbering about forty-five armed men, the whites failed to dislodge them.</p><P>The first attempt was made in November 1872, by a body of thirty-five cavalry, eight of whom fell before the fire of an invisible foe, and the rest wisely retreated.</p><P>The Modocs then proceeded to intrench themselves in the Lava-beds, taking with them their squaws and their little ones.  The Lava-beds are described as being like a gigantic sponge, fossilised to the hardest rock--full of caverns and craters, with long cracks and fissures; in short, a place in which thousands of men could safely lie concealed, and where a handful of well-armed men might defy an army.</p><P>Here they were attacked on the 17th January by a force of 450 Government troops, who had not realised the strength of the position, and were forced to retire with a loss of twenty-nine wounded and ten killed.</p><P>Matters now looked serious.  It was allowed by Government that the Modocs had some cause for complaint, and a Peace Commission, headed by General Canby and Dr Thomas, was appointed to inquire into their grievances, and endeavour to put matters on a better footing.  General Canby was a man of large experience--a just man, and one truly desirous to see these tribes fairly dealt by.</p><P>The Modoc chiefs were accordingly invited to attend a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:conference in the American camp; but vividly remembering deeds of treachery in the past, they refused to come.  Finally, they agreed to meet the Peace Commissioners half-way between the camp and the Lava-beds, and hold a big talk, though each side mistrusted the other.  All were supposed to attend unarmed; but in the course of the discussion, "Captain Jack," the Modoc chief, suddenly drew his revolver and shot General Canby through the head.  At the same moment Dr Thomas was shot and fell dead, and a third white man was wounded.</p><P>Then the Modocs retreated to their stronghold.</p><P>At the same moment another party had advanced to the second American camp with a flag of truce, asking to see the officer in command.  This was refused, whereupon they shot the officer who had come to parley.  Doubtless they supposed that they had slain their principal foes, little knowing that by their deed of foul treachery they had actually murdered two of their very best friends.  It seems always to be the ill-luck of savage races to revenge the misdeeds done by bad men on the very friends who are most anxious to help them.</p><P>In the present instance, the Indians practised exact retaliation for the cruel treachery with which they themselves had been treated some years previously, when a volunteer American force, commanded by a man called Ben Wright, attacked the Modocs in these same Lava-beds and was twice defeated.  Wright therefore proposed to the Indians that they should come to a big dinner and talk over their disagreements, planning to poison his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:guests with strychnine.  Happily they did not come, but agreed to a big talk, when, at a preconcerted signal, Wright drew his revolver--an example followed by all his men.  A general massacre ensued.  About forty Indians were shot, and Wright was lauded as a hero.</p><P>But some of the Indians escaped, and after biding their time, contrived to murder Wright while he slept.</p><P>The Indians were hanged, but gloried in having obtained vengeance on the murderer of their people.  There is little doubt that the same motive prompted the later crime, and that the tribe felt they were carrying out a just revenge in thus repeating the deed of treachery.</p><P>Very different was the view taken by the white men.  Whatever grain of sympathy had previously existed was now wholly extinguished, and a howl for the utter extermination of the tribe arose from every corner of the States.  The one thought was for vengeance, and a bloodthirsty craving to shoot Modocs seemed to take possession of all the whites in the country.  Henceforth it was war to the bitter end.  The general order issued to the troops contains these words: "Let no Modoc in future ever be able to boast that his ancestors killed General Canby."</p><P>The Indians now seemed inspired with the energy of despair.  They fortified their natural stronghold till it seemed impregnable.  Six hundred troops--infantry, cavalry, and artillery--with two howitzers and four small mortars, besieged the Lava-beds for several months without result.  Repeated attempts were made to carry the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:place by assault, but in each case the assailants had to retreat before the fire of an invisible foe.</p><P>The Indians, like other races of the Pacific, fight almost naked, and their dark-reddish skin could scarcely be distinguished from the lava around them.  They have other peculiarities in common with the Pacific Islanders, as, for instance, the advance of an orator, who (in this case carefully concealed) shouted taunts and defiance to the besiegers; and also that the squaws are present during the fighting, to encourage the warriors and tend the wounded.</p><P>At length the Indians were dislodged from their stronghold by well-directed shells, which were a new experience, and took them by surprise.  They still, however, found covert among the rocks, and a few days later dealt a terrible surprise to a scouting-party which had gone forth to try and track them.  Seeing no sign of the Indians, the party prepared to return to camp, but first halted for a few moments' rest and food, little dreaming that the Indian rifles even then covered them.  A moment more, and out of the party of sixty, seventeen lay dead, twelve were wounded, and when the survivors returned to camp, five were missing.</p><P>It seemed as if the red men were at least to retain possession of the red rocks,--and so they doubtless would have done, had not traitors finally yielded to bribery, and betrayed their brethren.  They showed the pale-faces the water-springs which enabled their comrades to hold out, and these having been cut off, the handful of survivors were compelled to surrender to the all-powerful conqueror, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Thirst.  Fifteen men and thirty-five women were all that remained to march out.  They were bound hand and foot, and placed in waggons to be carried prisoners to Fort Klamath.</p><P>On their way they were met by a company of the volunteers from Oregon, who had so long been kept at bay by these poor desperate Indians.  The Oregon white men stopped one of the waggons, cut the traces, and in cold blood shot four Indians who sat there handcuffed and helpless.</p><P>The chief and his few remaining followers were tried by a military commission, and hanged.  Thus the white race have "improved" the Modocs off the face of the earth.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>THE STRUGGLES OF THE RED MAN AND THE WHITE--ATTACKS ON THE RAILROAD BY INDIANS AND BY BRIGANDS.</p><P>THE Indian question is apparently inexhaustible.</p><P>This evening I have been listening to the reminiscences of several real old Californian pioneers, who gathered round the blazing log-fire in the Big Tree sitting-room, and began to exchange notes of their early days, in this new land--days when life was one ceaseless danger, every man being armed to the teeth, and constant enmity existing between redskins and white men.</p><P>One would imagine that some sense of fair-play might have induced a certain amount of sympathy with the wild tribes who saw their hunting-grounds so ruthlessly cleared, and they themselves driven out from every desirable resting-place; but this is an idea which apparently never found room in the mind of the encroaching whites.  They wanted the land, and its natural inhabitants were looked upon as cumberers of the soil, for whom there was but one alternative--either they must "git up and git" (which is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Californian for clearing out), or else they might be shot as wantonly as the wild buffaloes of the prairies.</p><P>Small wonder if desperate men strove to better such instruction, and from time to time rallied their forces for some fierce onslaught on the intruders.  But efforts which in classic story are vaunted as noble and patriotic, are apt to be considered in a very different light when seen too near; so the struggles of the wild Indian tribes are invariably spoken of as the unmitigated treacheries of devils.</p><P>Of course, in the kind of guerilla warfare which was ceaselessly waged, there were countless incidents of cold-blooded cruelty on the one side, and of reprisals on the other; and after hearing a score or more of such anecdotes, told by men who perhaps themselves bore a part in the fray, it is hard to tell which side most deserves one's sympathy, or rouses one's horror.  It is all such a pitiful history, and it does seem so hard that the earnest solemn red men, so picturesque in their barbaric feathers and warpaint, could have been taught no conciliatory lesson by their white brothers--nothing but the oft-enacted deeds of never-ending aggression, by which they have again and again been compelled to retreat farther and farther into the wilds, before the ever-advancing wave of settlers, to whom all pleasant pastures and desirable streams and springs were sites to be coveted, and therefore appropriated.</p><P>Some of the most thrilling stories told this evening were of attacks by the Indians on travellers crossing the great prairies, and of wild headlong gallops for life.  The Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:had a special aversion to white men disturbing these hunting-grounds, and resented it accordingly.</p><P>Some of their best-planned attacks were on the overland stage-coaches, which were run right across the continent before the days of the Great Pacific Railroad, and which might be expected to yield a booty worth capturing.  Of course the driver, guard, and passengers were all heavily armed, and the teams were kept in such first-rate condition as rather to enjoy a gallop with the wild Indian ponies tearing after them in hot pursuit.</p><P>It was found necessary to station troops all along the main road, and a military escort occasionally accompanied the coach from one station to another in districts where danger was apprehended.  The stations themselves were frequently attacked, as the supplies of all sorts which were there stored, and the relays of excellent horses, offered irresistible temptation to the wild men.</p><P>The military established forts at intervals across the country; and the Indians, never lacking in bravery, attacked them in these strongholds.  Some of the fiercest skirmishing took place in the neighbourhood of Fort Laramie, Fort Morgan, and Fort Sedgwick, near to where Julesburg Station now stands.  On one occasion the Sioux and Cheyennes mustered a body of upwards of a thousand men, and prepared to attack Fort Laramie, where, as it happened, only about fifty men were then stationed.</p><P>The officer in command told off a dozen men to defend the fort and work the two guns, while he rode out at the head of the others to meet the assailants.  It was not till they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:reached a projecting bluff, distant about a mile from the fort, that they realised the number of their opponents.  The Indians charged furiously, and the cavalry were compelled to retreat, leaving fourteen of their number dead on the field.  They succeeded in reaching the fort, which was quickly surrounded by the foe; but Indian arrows, or dubious guns and pistols, could avail little against artillery, and when morning dawned not one red man was in sight.  Neither were any of their dead or wounded left on the field.  All had been carried off, true to their ancient custom,--no easy matter, as it was subsequently ascertained that they had lost upwards of sixty men on this occasion.</p><P>Unhappily the savage nature betrayed itself in the terrible maltreatment of their dead foes, who, without exception, were left stripped and mutilated, affording a terrible incentive to vengeance in the hearts of the sad, stern men who on the morrow rode forth to bury their comrades.</p><P>The barbarous element was unfortunately continually presenting itself to stir up and quicken the abhorrence with which the white men ever regarded the wild tribes; and raids for horse and cattle stealing, plunder and burning, such as find many a parallel in our own Border warfare, were invariably salted with the one horrible crowning indignity of scalping the victims, regardless of age or sex.</p><P>About ten years ago these raids became so frequent and so alarming that it became necessary to take serious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:measures to put a stop to them.  The chief difficulty lay in contriving to bring the slippery foe to an encounter, their policy being to appear and disappear again as if by magic.  At sunset a settlement might seem prosperous and secure--no sign of danger near--and perhaps ere dawn only a heap of blackened ruins, and the scalped corpses of the victims, remained to prove that the Indians had visited the spot; but of themselves no trace remained.</p><P>The only possibility of tracking these marauders was by securing the aid of the friendly Pawnee Indians, who were familiar with every trail within some hundred miles.  About two hundred of these men were enlisted as scouts, and formed into three organised corps.  These wary allies undertook to guide a strong force of regular cavalry, and started in search of their natural foes, the Sioux and the Cheyennes.</p><P>Following dubious trails, winding by turns in every direction--north, south, east, and west--passing through valleys and creeks, till they had travelled several hundred miles, they at length tracked them to a ridge of high land, where about five hundred men, women, and children were encamped at a place known as Summit Springs, the only good water to be found within many miles.</p><P>The difficulty of the matter was for troops to approach without being discovered, so as to prevent the Indians from vanishing as effectually as was their wont.  But the Pawnees were as wary as the Sioux, and knew every pass and ravine far and wide; so they were able to guide the white troops by circuitous paths, marching upwards of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:fifty miles in order to steal upon the enemy from the only direction which had been deemed so secure as not to require outposts.</p><P>So warily did they advance, that no alarm was raised till they were within about a mile of the camp, when the Sioux caught sight of the cavalry.  Then, with a wild cry of warning to the women, they ran to catch their horses, which were feeding at some distance; but it was too late.  The Pawnee scouts made the very heavens echo with their savage war-whoops as they led the charge, followed by the cavalry, and a short but furious hand-to-hand fight resulted in the total defeat of the Sioux and Cheyenne Indians.</p><P>Of their two hundred warriors, about a hundred and sixty were slain.  Some concealed themselves in a deep ravine with precipitous sides, where they could defend themselves in a close engagement; but their assailants knew better than to approach, and kept up a steady fire till they had reason to believe that none survived.  Then approaching warily, they found one woman and sixteen men lying side by side all dead.  Among them was the Sioux chief, known as Tall Bull.</p><P>The camp yielded large booty on this occasion, as, besides the usual strange Indian head-dresses, moccasins, and buffalo-robes, there was much spoil in the way of plunder obtained in the recent forays.  About six hundred horses and mules were captured, and a considerable number of women and children.  These were kept prisoners for a few weeks, and were then sent to other Indian settlements in more civilised districts.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>In the camp were found two white women who had been taken prisoners in some of the raids.  On the approach of the rescue-party the Sioux chief, Tall Bull, shot them both, and left them for dead.  One was fatally wounded; but the other recovered, and eventually married one of the soldiers who had rescued her.  Much property which had been stolen from her father was found in camp, and was restored to her; but the recollection of the insults endured by herself and her sister-victim, and of the cruelties practised on them by jealous Indian squaws, evermore abides on her mind as a haunting memory of horror.</p><P>This is a topic on which it is scarcely possible to touch, yet herein lies the secret of the unconquerable abhorrence with which white men regard the Indians.  Such is their indescribable cruelty, that men who know no other fear, yet stand in such dread of the possibility of capture, that they are careful never to expend their last shot, reserving it in order to take their own lives rather than fall into the hands of men to whom the barbarous torture of a prisoner is a delight--the very women showing their ingenuity by devising fresh refinements of cruelty, and gloating over the prolonged agonies of their victim.  Deeper depths of atrocious brutality await the female captive, be she Indian or foreign; but the fate of the white woman is invariably intensified in horror.</p><P>As a matter of course, such incidents, oft-repeated, have stirred up the natural antipathies of race to the highest pitch, and have too often led the pale-faces to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:deal with all Indians as though they were all alike--incarnate devils.  Witness the resolutions for their total extermination which, some years ago, were actually passed by the Legislature of Idaho.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
127.sgm: --That three men be appointed to select twenty-five men to go Indian-hunting; and all those who can fit themselves out shall receive a nominal sum for all scalps that they may bring in; and all who cannot fit themselves out, shall be fitted out by the committee, and when they bring in scalps, it shall be deducted.</p><P>"For every Buck scalp be paid one hundred dollars, and for every Squaw fifty dollars, and twenty-five dollars for everything in the shape of an Indian under ten years of age.</p><P>"Each scalp shall have the curl of the head, and each man shall make oath that the said scalp was taken by the company."</p><P>So the Indians were first exasperated beyond all endurance, and were then shot and scalped, with as little pity as though they had in truth been dangerous wild beasts.</p><P>Small wonder that of the two million Indians who, two centuries ago, held undisturbed possession of those vast hunting-grounds, only 300,000 now survive; still smaller wonder that, of these, one-third are classed in official statistics as "barbarous," and another third as "semi-civilised."  The greatest marvel is, that one-third should be classed as "civilised."  Nevertheless, Bishop Whipple of Minnesota, in addressing the President of the United States on the Indian question, has distinctly asserted that there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:does not exist one tribe to whom the Government has given Christian civilisation.</p><P>He points out, in the plainest terms, that the oft-repeated horrible massacres, followed by very expensive retributive Indian wars, have invariably been the direct consequence of aggression on the part of the white men, non-fulfilment by Government of the conditions of treaties (conditions made by the whites, but infringed so soon as they were found in any way inconvenient), and, most fertile cause of all, frauds by the Indian agents intrusted with the administration of Government compensation money.</p><P>As for treaties, they are apparently only made to be broken; not one is ever faithfully carried out, and those best cognisant with Indian affairs, affirm that there is not a tribe in all the great wide continent which has not just cause for well-founded complaints of the way in which treaty obligations have been evaded, and the manner in which they have again and again been deceived by Government promises, till all possibility of faith is quenched.  No wonder that oft-repeated lessons of aggression and violence should have roused and intensified the very worst features of the Indian character, and excited the savages to deeds worthy of the devils with whom they are classed.</p><P>But I think that if the same policy had been pursued with any other savage race (the Fijians, for instance), the result would have been identical; whereas, in their case, the devotion of a handful of Christian teachers has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:transformed a whole race of most barbarously cruel cannibals<ANCHOR ID="n8-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: into a nation of singularly consistent Christians.  There can be little doubt that, had the tribes been first reached by such influences, and then honourably dealt with, the Indians in the United States would now be as peaceable and orderly as their brethren in Canada, where they are recognised as the Indian subjects of our Queen, and are schooled, Christianised, civilised, and protected by the laws in full enjoyment of their personal rights and property.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-11">Only one tribe of North American Indians have the reputation of being cannibals--namely, the Tonkaways, who declare that their ancestors instituted the horrid practice, not to satisfy hunger, but to gratify revenge.  They are found in the south-east of Texas.  By a refinement of cruelty far in excess of that of the average cannibals of the South Seas, they cut slices from their living victim, who lies writhing on the ground in indescribable agony, while they sit by the fire roasting and devouring his flesh.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>How fully the "savages" recognise the difference of the white men who keep faith with them and those who do not, is plainly proved by the fact that whereas the United States have expended 500,000,000 dollars on wars with the Indians to avenge massacres without number, the Canadian Government has never had one massacre to avenge, and the white men and the red there dwell together in peace and amity.</p><P>One of the old Californians gave us some thrilling sketches this evening of the attempts to prevent the progress of the great railroad across the continent.  This man was actually engaged in several skirmishes, when the Indians attacked the engineers and navvies, and sometimes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:succeeded in driving them away from their work, when, of course, the savages proceeded to destroy everything in their power.  Even after the line was completed, and trains running, the Indians repeatedly contrived to tear up the lines, on purpose to cause frightful accidents; then in the confusion that ensued, they swooped down like evil birds of prey, to pillage the wrecked train, and scalp the wounded and the dead, and straightway made off with their booty and horrible trophies.</p><P>One man who was thus scalped had only been partially stunned, and the sharp cut of the Indian's knife brought him to his senses so far, that he instinctively threw out his arms, caught the savage, snatched the scalp from his hand, and succeeded in making good his escape in the darkness.  That man survived, and is now employed as an official on the railway.</p><P>A favourite point of attack was at Plum Creek--so called after a stream which flows between great rocky bluffs, and finally joins the Platte river.  In old days it was one of the principal stations of the stage-coaches, and was therefore especially obnoxious to the Indians, who lost no opportunity of giving trouble.  In one of their attacks, a dozen white men were killed and many wounded.  When, however, notwithstanding all their opposition, the railway was completed, they selected this place as the scene of a villanous piece of work.</p><P>Having determined to wreck the train, they deliberately lifted the rails just where a bridge crossed a deep ravine; of course the whole concern went over, and engine, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:carriages, and waggons landed at the bottom in one terrible heap of ruin.  The wretched fireman and engine-driver were appallingly injured; but their agonies, if intensified, were at least shortened by the fire, which quickly spread from the engine to the broken waggons and carriages, affording a magnificent illumination for the miscreants, who, having concealed themselves in the ravine to watch the success of their little game, now rushed out with frantic yells of delight, and proceeded to sack the train, tearing open bales of merchandise, and especially rejoicing over gay calico and bright flannels.  Having secured as much as they could carry, they made off in the grey dawn; and when, a few hours later, a relief-party arrived, they found only the burning train, but no trace of the route taken by the Indians.</p><P>As usual, it was necessary to call in the help of the friendly Pawnee scouts, who were posted in detachments all along the railway track, for the express purpose of guarding it against the Arrapahoes, Sioux, Cheyennes, and other hostile tribes.  With the aid of the telegraph to summon and the railway to bring these men and their horses, about fifty scouts and four white officers reached the scene of the disaster by midnight.</p><P>A party of ten men were at once told off to discover in what direction the enemy had started, and though to the eyes of white men not a track was visible, the keen-sighted scouts soon struck the trail.  They followed it all day, noted where the foe had crossed the stream, and from various indications which they alone could recognise, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:decided that the cruel deed had been done by a party of Cheyennes from the south.  They thought it probable that these would shortly return to try and do further mischief, and so decided not to pursue them, but rather to lie in ambush, making their own camp in a ravine near the scene of the disaster.</p><P>They had not long to wait.  About a week later the marauders were discovered in the distance.  The avengers waited till they had taken up their quarters for the night on the opposite side of the river Platte.  When the horses had been turned loose, and their riders had settled down to make themselves comfortable for the night, then the Pawnee scouts, led by their white officers, proceeded to cross the river, and stealthily making their way through the scrub, succeeded in approaching very near the Cheyenne camp ere their presence was detected.</p><P>At last the alarm was raised, and in wild excitement the Indians dashed off in pursuit of their horses.  They had just time to secure these, and form in regular ranks, when the Pawnees charged through an intervening stream, and with wild war-whoops rushed to the attack.</p><P>The Cheyennes numbered 150 warriors, and the Pawnees were but 50; but the suddenness of the attack had unnerved the former, and at the first charge they gave way, and fled pell-mell, hotly pursued by the scouts, till the darkness of night enabled them to make good their escape, leaving fifteen of their number dead, whereas not one of the attacking party was even wounded.</p><P>The Pawnees, of course, carried off the scalps of their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:fallen foes, to ensure their never reaching the happy hunting-grounds, and returned to camp to exhibit these precious trophies, and spend the night in wild war-dances of triumph.  They succeeded in capturing a boy chief and a squaw, who were subsequently exchanged for six white girls and boys who had been carried off by the enemy in a previous raid.</p><P>The Cheyennes seem to have profited by this wholesome lesson, for they do not appear to have taken part in any further attacks on the railway; but the Sioux continued troublesome for some time--constantly attacking working-parties, firing at trains, and sometimes endeavouring to wreck them.  On one occasion they succeeded thoroughly, and exactly repeated the horrors so ably planned by the Cheyennes at Plum Creek.</p><P>This time the scene of the disaster was a creek near Ogalalla.  The rails were turned up, the engine fell headlong, dragging all the cars on the top of it.  The unhappy fireman was jammed against the boiler in such a position that the flames could just reach him.  For six long hours he endured the torture of a slow death of agony, praying the helpless bystanders in mercy to end his anguish by shooting him.  At last they succeeded in extricating him, but he only survived a few moments.</p><P>On this occasion the railway officials and passengers were well armed, and made such good use of their weapons, that the Indians dared not approach to plunder, and eventually made off.  They were tracked and pursued by the invaluable scouts, supported by two companies of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:white cavalry; but the latter unfortunately neglected to extinguish their camp-fires with due precaution, and the result was a terrible conflagration--one of those appalling prairie-fires which from time to time desolate vast tracts of the sun-dried grass plains, lieking up farm-buildings and crops, extending to the forests, and sweeping onward in vast tornadoes of flame.</p><P>These bush-fires are of annual occurrence in some part of the great continent; and terrible beyond description must be the waves of fire, sometimes extending over many miles of country, and rushing onward as if driven by a hurricane, when the whole heavens are black with stifling smoke.  And men and cattle flee for their lives, only to be overtaken and swallowed up by the devouring flames.</p><P>I wish you could hear some of these men tell their own stories of their hairbreadth escapes, and of the terrible scenes they have witnessed--scenes to haunt a man to the last hour of his life, so magnificent in their awful grandeur and horror.  Sometimes the draught created by the flames themselves is so great that it carries with it large pieces of glowing charcoal, which flash like meteors through the dense clouds of smoke, and falling to the ground perhaps miles ahead of the main body, ignite the parched scrub, and form fresh centres of destruction.  Conceive the anguish of finding one's self hemmed in between such walls of living flame.  Even if the farther fire has swept onward ere the first overtakes it, the scorching smoke is of itself enough to choke all living creatures, and the chances of escape by flight are small indeed.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Under such circumstances as these, you can imagine that the Indians of whom we were speaking were allowed on that occasion to escape scot-free.  However, they seem to have then begun to realise that their attacks on railway trains were likely to call forth condign punishment, so they have abandoned that pastime to the more enlightened white brigands, who to this day occasionally amuse themselves pleasantly by heaping stones and logs on the track sufficient to wreck the train if it refuse to stop in obedience to their signals.  The engine-driver, seeing the signal-lantern waved, stops as a matter of course, supposing it to be carried by the authorised signalman.</p><P>Then the whole band of masked robbers appears, armed to the teeth.  If the officials offer resistance, they are overpowered by numbers, or yield to the persuasive influences of revolvers.  The passengers are likewise held passive, and compelled to hold up their hands while their pockets are rifled; ladies are relieved of their jewellery, luggage is broken open and valuables abstracted, and if the safe of the express-car cannot be wrenched open by main force, the simple method adopted is to fill the keyhole with explosives and blow it open.  In most cases this playful exploit is rewarded with a rich booty in money and valuables.</p><P>Should any rash officials venture to try and defend their charge, they are quieted by having the muzzles of revolvers applied to either temple; and though their lives are, <HI REND="italics">if possible</HI>
127.sgm:, spared, they are probably stunned by a judicious blow, which keeps them quiet for a while.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Having secured all they want, these considerate highwaymen then assist the railway officials to clear away the stones and logs, and to start the train again; while they themselves collect their booty and gallop off into the depths of the forest.  You see, this is a great country, and whatever is done at all, is done on a large scale, and with characteristic coolness and forethought!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>RIDE TO GLACIER POINT--VIEW OF THE MERCED AND LYELL GROUPS--A NEW REST-HOUSE--FROGS' CHORUS--VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS--A SECLUDED INN--CLOUD'S REST.</p><P><HI REND="italics">May 10th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>THE owners of the sure-footed horses of the valley pride themselves on the fact that there has never yet been an accident, though hundreds of tourists, who look as if they had lived all their lives in paved cities, and are wholly guiltless of any notion of riding, annually deliver themselves over to the guides, who place them on the backs of unknown ponies, arrange them in Indian file, and adroitly steer them up and down most fearfully dangerous trails, where one false step or stumble would probably land pony and rider right down in the valley, in the form of a jelly.</p><P>I had a very near shave myself to-day, and rather wonder at finding myself here in safety.  Early this morning we started with our two English friends to scale the precipitous rock-walk, on the opposite side of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<illus entity="a127-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GLACIER POINT.</p></CAPTION>
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127.sgm:the valley from the Great Falls.  The place we wished to reach is called Glacier Point, and forms a grand headland 3200 feet above this house.</p><P>It is apparently inaccessible, but by going some way down the valley, you strike a skilfully contrived trail, which starts backwards and forwards in about sixty zigzags, passing right along the base of the Sentinel--that stupendous rock-needle which towers 3000 feet above the valley.</p><P>You must always remember that the valley itself is 4060 feet above the sea, and the height of all these crags and waterfalls is only reckoned from this level; so, to estimate their true height, you must always add on 4000 feet.</p><P>We found the snow lying pretty thick on the upper trail, and in some places passed through cuttings where it lay ten feet deep on either side.  It had been cleared by men who are building a wooden rest-house on the summit, for the comfort of summer travellers.  It is a promising-looking place, perched like an eagle's eyrie, on a very commanding crag.</p><P>As we were toiling along one of the steepest and most dangerous bits of the ascent, I suddenly became aware that my saddle-girths had slipped, and that the saddle was in the act of sliding round, and in another moment should inevitably have come to most frightful grief, had not Mr Glazebrook, who was riding behind me, perceived the position of affairs; and in one second, before I had time to realise what had happened, he leaped from his horse, and caught me in the act of falling, thereby <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:certainly saving me a broken neck, and sparing the valley a tradition which would for ever have pointed the moral of the advantages of Mexican saddles <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
127.sgm: English.</p><P>It was rather a risky moment for my rescuer as well as for myself.  Happily both our beasts behaved splendidly, and stood stock-still till the saddle was safely replaced.  They certainly are excellent animals, sturdy and intelligent, and seem rather to enjoy climbing trails steep as ladders, or a headlong scramble over rocks and rivers, fallen timber, or whatever comes in the way.  Sometimes they have to clamber up a sort of stairway formed by the twisted roots of trees--paths which would make the hair of a low-country horse stand on end!</p><P>Having scaled the walls of the valley, we found ourselves in a pine-forest, where the snow lay pure and deep, and the breeze sweeping across the broad snow-fields of the Sierras was piercingly chilly.  The sun, however, was shining brightly, and the views looking down to the valley were beautiful beyond description; while in every other direction they were stern and wild--a bleak, cold expanse of grey granite ridges and snow and dark pine-forests.</p><P>Here and there, like crested waves on a grey billowy ocean, rose a cluster of snowy peaks, such as the Obelisk or Merced group, at least five of which are upwards of 13,000 feet in height.  One of these (originally called the Obelisk, but now Mount Clark) is so sharp a pinnacle of granite, that the few adventurous climbers who have scaled it, say they felt as if poised in mid-air.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>This is a side-range running parallel with the main crest of the Sierras, where a grand regiment of peaks, also rising to upwards of 13,000 feet, are known as the Mount Lyell group.  Hundreds of points along this crest exceed 12,000 feet.  The actual summit of Mount Lyell is an inaccessible pinnacle.  These two ridges are connected by a transverse range, which forms the divide between the head-waters of the Merced and San Joaquin rivers.</p><P>The former rises near the base of Mount Lyell,--between it and the five peaks of the Merced group.  From that upper world it travels downward, hurrying as it draws near the valley.  In the last two miles it descends 2000 feet by a series of rapids and cataracts, varied with two great leaps, forming, first the Nevada, and then the Vernal Falls.</p><P>Then for a little space the weary waters have rest, after their wild, rushing, dashing, tumultuous race and headlong fall from their mountain birthplace to the quiet valley--a little rest, while the river of Mercy flows westward through the green meadows--truly green pastures beside still waters, for the silvery stream only descends thirty-five feet in the next eight miles!  Then resuming its troubled journey, it suddenly disappears in the rocky canyon, and rushes downward to the thirsty plain.</p><P>All this lay outspread before us, as we stood on the giddy brink of a glacier-polished, pine-fringed<ANCHOR ID="n9-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: precipice, of the very whitest granite; and right in front of us towered the Half-Dome, which certainly is an altogether <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:unique creation--utterly unlike anything known in any other country.  It is far more imposing as seen from this side of the valley than from the other, as you get it <HI REND="italics">en profil</HI>
127.sgm:, with the stupendous precipice facing the valley, and, on the other side, the wonderful curve of the dome from the crown to the base.  I can see, however, that there are two points from which we should obtain still grander views of this gigantic rock-mass.  One is the Sentinel Dome, very near Glacier Point, but 1000 feet higher.  The other is the summit of Cloud's Rest, which towers 6150 feet above the head of the valley; so, if we can get there, we shall see it to perfection.  Next in steepness to the Half-Dome is that which bears the name of Starr King--a singularly smooth, bare, and inaccessible cone of granite, surrounded by a whole family of little cones.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-11"><HI REND="italics">Pinus Jeffreyi</HI>
127.sgm:<P>A smaller dome of the same character, which the Indians called Mahta, is now known as the Cap of Liberty.  It is a cap 3100 feet high, but is dwarfed by its great neighbour, and altogether is less worshipful.</p><P>The cold breeze was so biting that we were thankful to take refuge, with our luncheon-basket, in the newly built wooden house, and agreed that it would make delightful summer quarters.  It provides a good kitchen and sittingroom, and several small bedrooms, and will be a grand place from which to study sunrise and sunset effects.  Then only could one hope for rich colouring and broad shadows.  But beneath these cloudless blue skies and bright noonday glare, the Sierras look unpleasantly cold and grey, and the scattered pines lie singly or in patches, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:giving the whole scene a speckled look, which is more wonderful than attractive to my eyes.</p><P>At the risk of heresy, I confess that to me the desolation of the scene is repellent.  Those hard angular masses, which show no symtom of weathering--those jagged pinnacles, which cut so sharp and clean against the cold blue sky--and the endless ranges, all gashed and seamed,--are savagely grand, but most unlovable.</p><P>My eyes have not yet lost the memory of the fantastic peaks and rock-needles of the Society Isles--their rich basaltic colouring and wealth of tropical foliage,--and, by contrast, the South Seas appear more enticing than ever.</p><P>I felt glad when our faces were once more set towards the valley; for each step revealed it in some new aspect of beauty, with ever-varying foreground of great rock-boulders or sheer precipice, and gnarled weather-beaten pines with weird arms outstretched to the abyss.  One foreground was so quaint, that I felt compelled to stop and sketch it,--a gigantic, somewhat oval boulder, poised on one end, so as to form a tall pillar.  (I do not think it is really a boulder, but it looks like one.)  In honour of Agassiz, it is called his Thumb.</p><P>Exactly facing me while at this point, although distant two miles, on the opposite side of the tremendous gorge, were the great Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Falls, visible from the very summit to the base; and a multitude of temporary falls, born of the melting snows, floated in silvery rills and clouds of white spray, at all manner of unaccustomed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:points.  So through the great stillness of the upper world there floated faint murmurs from all these falling waters, mingling with the roar of the rivers rushing down the canyons, but all softened and blended to one harmonious undertone-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The many mingling sounds of earth, which men call silence."<LB></HI>
127.sgm:</p><P>On our way down through the snow-cuttings, we had rather an awkward meeting with a long file of mules heavily laden with furniture--or rather, portions of furniture--for the new house.  There was some difficulty in backing to any spot where it might be possible to pass.  However, this was safely accomplished.  Futher difficulties awaited us at the zigzags, where we met a party upward-bound, and passed one another with many qualms.  A skittish pony or mule would be fatal; but these are all apparently beyond suspicion of any such frivolity.</p><P>It felt warm and comfortable coming back to the sheltered valley; and the loveliness of the evening tempted me to a stroll along the flooded river, which now forms wide pools, in which the stately pines and the tall poplars lie mirrored, framing the reflections of the great mountains--a series of beautiful pictures, solemn and still.</p><P>Gradually, as the evening crept on, the blues in the valley intensified.  The grey granite crags were flushed with warm rosy light, deepening till, for a few short moments, they seemed ablaze, while the grey clouds above them were fringed with floating films, fire-tinted; then suddenly the red glow died away, to be replaced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:by a pale ashen-grey, and the deepening gloom of twilight.</p><P>The green spires towered darker and darker against the glittering golden sky, till that too became darkened, and gradually assumed that rich velvety blue which is so marked a characteristic of a Californian night, and seems to intensify the radiance of the brilliant moon.</p><P>It is full moon just now, and the nights are so beautiful, that after the <HI REND="italics">table d'ho&circ;te</HI>
127.sgm: dinner, most people are beguiled to forget their weariness and take a turn, ere the final "toasting" by the log-fire.  The effect of pallid moonlight on these white cliffs is most poetic.  Every hard line is softened, and an even, dreamy tone pervades the whole, though one side of the valley lies in deep blue-grey shadow, and the other in clear white light; and above the dark precipitous cliffs tower the silvery-grey domes, meet thrones for the moonbeams.</p><P>Now that the annual May floods have transformed a large part of the meadows into a clear calm lake, we understand what at first seemed an inexplicable mystery--namely, why a raised wooden pathway has been built right across the meadows, between the two hotels.  If the waters go on rising, it will soon be a necessary bridge.  The considerate guardians of the valley have placed wooden seats at intervals all along this half-mile bridge; and here, on these lovely evenings, we rest in pleasant knots, and listen to the chorus of innumerable frogs, which seem to have suddenly awakened from their winter sleep, or, at any rate, to have recovered their voices.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:gentlemen declare that they are classic frogs, singing a Greek chorus after Aristophanes, and that the oft-repeated burden of their song is--</p><P>Brek kek kek kex! coax! coax!</p><P><HI REND="italics">May 15th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>We have been away for two days on an expedition to the upper valley, passing from one glory to another.</p><P>Our Anglo-Mexican friends preceded us, and finding quarters at a rough-and-ready, but very clean, little wooden rest-house, sent us back a message to say we must follow immediately with the sketching-blocks and plenty of warm clothes, as it was very cold, but indescribably beautiful.</p><P>So at 6 A.M. we started, by a path leading along the base of the cliffs, among ferny, moss-grown boulders, where grand old oaks outstretch gnarled boughs, to frame dreamy pictures of rock and river.  At this early hour the giant crags seem robed in purple; you can scarcely realise that they are the same, which an hour later will be transformed to creamy-white granite.  And the Glacier Point, which faces the rising sun, shone like polished alabaster as we passed up the valley; but as we looked back to it when the sun was westering, it presented one of the grandest pictures of mountain gloom that could possibly be imagined.</p><P>How you would rejoice in the exhilarating freshness of these early mornings!  With every breath you literally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<illus entity="a127-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE MAY FLOODS IN THE VALLEY</p></CAPTION>
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127.sgm:seem to be taking a new lease of life, and to develop energies undreamt of.  The air is so keen and sparkling that it seems to brace you up and give you new physical and mental strength, it is so elastic and invigorating.</p><P>When we came to the head of the valley, whence diverge the three rocky canyons, we bade adieu to the green meadows, and passing up a most exquisite gorge, crossed the Illillouette by a wooden bridge, and followed the main fork of the Merced, up the central canyon.  I do not anywhere know a lovelier mile of river scenery than on this tumultous rushing stream, leaping from rock to rock, sweeping round mossy boulders, and falling in crystalline cascades--the whole fringed with glittering icicles, and over-shadowed by tall pine-trees,<ANCHOR ID="n9-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: whose feathery branches fringe the steep cliffs and wave in the breeze.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-12">Chiefly <HI REND="italics">Pinus Douglasii</HI>
127.sgm:<P>Presently a louder roar of falling waters told us that we were nearing the Vernal Falls, and through a frame of dark pines we caught a glimpse of the white spirit-like spray-cloud.  Tying up my pony, we crept to the foot of the falls, whence a steep flight of wooden steps has been constructed, by which a pedestrian can ascend about 400 feet to the summit, and thence resume his way, thus saving a very long round.  But of course four-footed creatures must be content to go by the mountain; and so the pony settled our route, greatly to our advantage, for the view thence, looking down the canyon and across to Glacier Point, proved to be about the finest thing we have seen, as an effect of mountain gloom.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>At the foot of the pass we met an English lady and gentleman on foot.  Un-British like, we actually exchanged greetings!  Two keen fishermen met on common ground; then we discovered such home-links as determined us to meet again; but having made no definite tryst, we missed one another in each attempt, and I have just received a note of farewell as they leave the valley.<ANCHOR ID="n9-13">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-13">A year later we met in Japan, and ascended Fuji-yama together.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Just above the Vernal Falls comes a reach of the river known as "The Diamond Race,"--a stream so rapid and so glittering, that it seems like a shower of sparkling crystals, each drop a separate gem.  I have never seen a race which, for speed and dazzling light, could compare with these musical, glancing waters.</p><P>For half a mile above it, the river is a tumultuous raging flood, rushing at headlong speed down a boulder-strewn channel.  At the most beautiful point it is crossed by a light wooden bridge; and on the green mountain-meadow just beyond, stands the wooden home, to which a kindly landlord gave us a cheery, hearty welcome.</p><P>Here the lullaby for the weary is the ceaseless roar of the mighty Nevada Falls, which come thundering down the cliffs in a sheer leap of 700 feet, losing themselves in a deep rock-pool fringed with tall pines, which loom ghostly and solemn through the ever-floating tremulous mists of fine spray.</p><P>It is a fall so beautiful as fairly to divide one's allegiance to Yo&macr;-semite&acute;, especially as we first beheld it at about three in the afternoon, when the western rays of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<illus entity="a127-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE NEVADA AND VERNAL FALLS.</p></CAPTION>
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127.sgm:lowering sun lighted up the dark firs with a golden glow, and dim rainbows played on the spray-clouds.  It was as if fairy weavers had woven borders of purple and blue, green and gold, orange and delicate rose-colour, on a tissue of silvery gauze; and each dewy drop that rested on the fir-needles caught the glorious light, and became a separate prism, as though the trees were sprinkled with liquid radiant gems.</p><P>When hunger drove us from the worship of the ethereal, and a vulgar craving for the flesh-pots of the valley drew us back to the little inn, we were delighted and considerably astonished at the excellence of the abundant meal that awaited us, and felt as deeply humiliated as Sunday-school children at the end of a tea-fight, when we were compelled to hurt the feelings of our hospitable and highly conversational landlady by the assurance that we really were unable to do further justice to her apple-pies, hominy-cakes, turnovers, and concluding trifles.</p><P>Thus refreshed, we were again irresistibly attracted to the river, and stood on the wooden bridge in the brilliant moonlight, watching the impetuous rushing and wrestling of the raging waters--a wonderful and most fascinating sight.  But I have so long revelled in the soft balmy moonlight of the tropics that I could not endure the cold at this high level, and was thankful to return to the blazing fire of pine-logs, which crackled so invitingly on the wide hearth.</p><P>Next morning we breakfasted soon after five, and then started for Cloud's Rest, taking the pony to help me where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:it was possible.  First we had to climb a steep zigzag trail, cut partly in the face of the rock, and up the canyon, till we reached the summit of the Nevada Falls, which, when thus seen <HI REND="italics">en profil</HI>
127.sgm:, are beautiful beyond description.  The rocks are so tumbled about, that instead of falling quite straight, the river plunges at several angles, forming magnificent curves, and separate showers of water-rockets; while below, all blend in a chaos of dazzling whiteness, which loses itself in the spray-clouds.  Now that the river is in flood by the tribute of countless snow-streams, it is simply a mad torrent, bewildering to gaze upon, although so beautiful.</p><P>We had now reached the Little Yo&macr;-semite&acute;, which lies 2000 feet above the Great Valley.  It is a mountain-meadow, about a mile in depth, by four in length, enclosed by mighty rock-walls 3000 feet in height.  Through these peaceful green pastures glide the still waters of the Upper Merced, clear as crystal.</p><P>Our path wound round the back of the Half-Dome, at which we gazed, lost in wonder.  From this side you would never suspect the cleavage which has presented an absolutely vertical precipice to the valley.  Here we see only an exceedingly steep and lofty dome, rounded at the summit, and taking a steeper and ever steeper curve as it descends.  To me it is inconceivable that any one can ever find nerve or wish to ascend it.  I have already told you how George Anderson accomplished this, but no one has yet made the ascent this year.</p><P>Every winter's frost loosens some of the bolts, and only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:a cat-like climber, with careful and wary foot and hand, and steady head, can replace these missing links.  This winter the rope itself has given way.  Nevertheless our two friends were determined to attempt the ascent.  As a matter of course they failed, and had the narrowest shave of falling right into the valley.  So we may well congratulate them on having escaped with unbroken necks.</p><P>Still ascending, we passed through belts of dark pine-forest, and across open glades; then over great slabs of glacier-polished granite, thickly strewn with "perched blocks," the boulders carried here by ice-rivers in bygone ages--a fitting foreground to the cheerless mountain-ranges beyond.  Nowhere have I seen such granite slabs as these, nor such a multitude of ice-boulders as mark these ancient moraines.  They are of all sizes--from that of a large cottage to a child's head; while smaller fragments form a fine gravel.</p><P>In such a scene of cold desolation--"a barren land, and a poor"--it was pleasant to meet with one symptom of joyous life, in the merry little chip-munks, the most frolicsome of the squirrel family, almost as tame as the grey squirrel of India.  They are for ever darting about the rocks and trees, chattering in the most confiding manner.</p><P>I also hailed with delight several flame-coloured spines of the strange Californian snow-plant, which I told you we found in the forest at Mariposa, and which, like our snowdrop, is the first blossom to tell of a coming spring--the first symptom that the newly thawed earth has begun to awaken from its winter sleep.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Leaving the pony in a sheltered nook, we made our way across the flank of Cloud's Rest, till the snow became so deep that I could go no farther, so halted at the foot of the great summit-rock.  But our friends were determined to scale that white world, which we knew could be done quite easily.  Unfortunately, however, we had struck a wrong trail, and the point from which they started was inaccessible at all times, and doubly dangerous now, as the snow turned to ice under their feet.  So they narrowly risked a rapid descent into the valley, which lay 6000 feet below them, with not a bush or tree or jutting rock to give them a chance of escape.  I do think that, judging from our own experiences, the good angles whose charge it is to "bear us up, lest we dash our foot against a stone,"<ANCHOR ID="n9-14">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: must have anxious work here in the tourist season!</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-14">Psalm xci. 11, 12.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>The actual height of Cloud's Rest is 9950 feet.  It forms the crowning point of the ridge from which the Half-Dome rises, and, like it, is built of huge overlying plates of granite of curious concentric structure, the whole welded into a gigantic mass of solid crag.</p><P>It is almost incomprehensible how any life, animal or vegetable, can exist on such inhospitable ground; but a considerable number of very old gnarled cedars have contrived to establish themselves so firmly, that not all the storms that sweep the Sierras have been able to uproot them.  Their twisted, irregular boughs--bent and sometimes broken by the weight of snow and the fury of the wintry winds--tell their story as the rugged lines on an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:old weather-beaten face tell of the strifes of life which have engraven them.</p><P>These old-world trees are wonderfully picturesque.  Many of them are merely huge shattered stumps, battered warriors, which have lost limb by limb in many a hard-fought battle with wind and tempest.</p><P>They are the sturdiest, stumpiest, most determined, and most enduring of trees--thick-set, with gnarled, contorted branches, that have braved the tempests of a thousand years or more--and still contrive to clothe themselves with close patches of rich, cool green foliage, rendered doubly valuable by its contrast with the warm cinnamon-colour and deep red-browns of the stem and boughs and rugged bark, and with the cold grey of the dead branches, and the granite world around.  They form the only points of positive colour in all the bleak, vast landscape--the patches of lichen on their deeply furrowed bark, gleaming like flecks of mellow sunlight.</p><P>Even in death, the red cedar<ANCHOR ID="n9-15">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: will not yield, but holds its grip of the rock so firmly that the wildest wintry gales cannot dislodge it; and so the stanch old veteran remains in its place, stretching out weird, white, ghostly arms, and yielding to the weathering influences of sun and frost as slowly and as unwillingly as the granite crag to which it clings.  Each rugged tree is a study for an artist; and the specimens scattered along some of these high rock-ledges would make the fortune of the man who could paint them faithfully.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-15"><HI REND="italics">Juniperus occidentalis</HI>
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127.sgm:<P>It was a wonderful scene that lay outspread around us.  Serrated ridges, separated by awful chasms, whose sunless gloom was intensified by the sombre blue-black foliage of the pine-forests--those in the distance assuming a purple hue.  On every side uprose snow-streaked pinnacles, cold and grey, the highest ranges glistening in unsullied light against the clear blue sky.</p><P>On the right, the boulder-strewn slopes of granite swept down to the valley, of which we commanded a magnificent view.  It seemed narrowed to a mere canyon--each mighty crag, to which from the valley we are wont to look up with reverence, seeming dwarfed as we looked down on its summit.  Only the Split Dome remained undwarfed, unrivalled--wonderful!</p><P>Returning to the pony and the luncheon-basket, we found creature comforts, which enabled us to face the descent cheerily.  Of course, going up a valley in the morning, with the light from the east, gives such totally different effects to descending the same path in the afternoon, with all the lights reversed, that it is like two different expeditions.  What most delights you in morning gloom, looks garish in the full glare of sunlight, and <HI REND="italics">vice versa&circ;</HI>
127.sgm:.  But to-day, evening and morning were alike grand.</p><P>A halt at the inn for a cup of hot tea, and then once more under way, as we had decided to return here that evening.  Mr. David, with unvarying kindness, went all the way round by the road to lead the pony, leaving the rest of the party free to take the short cut by the river.  Anything more wonderful than the beauty of the Diamond <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Race in the evening light, I never dreamt of.  It is like a river in a fairy tale, all turned to spray--jewelled, glittering spray--rubies, diamonds, and emeralds, all dancing and glancing in the sunlight.</p><P>Just below this comes a little reach of the smoothest, clearest water, which seems to calm and collect itself ere gliding over the edge of a great square-hewn mass of granite 400 feet deep, forming the Vernal Falls.  Along the summit of this rock there runs a very remarkable natural ledge about four feet in height, so exactly like the stone parapet of a cyclopean rampart that it is scarcely possible to believe it is not artifical.  Here you can lean safely within a few feet of the fall, looking straight down the perpendicular crag.  But for this ledge, it would be dangerous even to set foot on that smooth, polished rock, which is slippery as ice.</p><P>Descending by the long steep flight of wooden steps, we paused to notice a fernery, doubtless tended by the fairies, in the cool shade of a damp grotto, safe beyond reach of thievish human hands.</p><P>From the falls being so full, the spray-clouds were so dense that we were thoroughly drenched; but as compensation, we each saw ourselves--not our shadows, but our actual selves--encompassed by a perfect miniature rainbow.  I suppose this is the form under which good guardian spirits of the falls reveal themselves to mortals,--and radiant, lovely spirits they assuredly are, though, it must be confessed, somewhat damp!</p><P>We really required their aid, for these spray-clouds are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:tenfold more bewildering than the densest mist, and I felt quite stupefied while picking my way among the broken fragments of rock at the base of the cliff.</p><P>A little farther down we found the pony and its leader--a welcome sight, for even in this exhilarating climate such a day's work is tolerably fatiguing, to say nothing of the exhaustion of seeing so much that is new and beautiful.  There still remained the lovely sunset ride down the valley, followed by the heartiest welcome back from our friends here.  And then, after dinner, the usual frogs' concert in the moonlight.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>EASY LIFE IN THE VALLEY--INDIAN NAMES--MINERS' NAMES--PLANTS AND FLOWERS--HURRIED TRAVELLERS--GOD SAVE THE QUEEN!--SUNDAY SERVICES.</p><P>BARNARD'S HOTEL, 22 <HI REND="italics">d May</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>YOU can scarcely realise how strange it feels to go on writing to you, when never an answering word comes back.  And I cannot possibly get a letter for a month to come!  I see every one else rush to the post-office when the mail-bags are opened; but as I know there can be none for me, I escape that excitement.</p><P>After a long spell of fine weather, we have had three real rainy days, greatly to the misery of the tourists.  I suppose the rain has accelerated the melting of the snows, for the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; and Merced, which were in flood a week ago, have now passed all bounds, and the latter has washed away the strong carriage-bridge just above this house.  All the flat parts of the valley are under water, so that there are broad mirror-lakes in every direction--and most lovely they are.  These, with the temporary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:spring falls, add greatly to the beauty of this grand spot, which certainly is the veriest paradise that artist ever dreamt of.  No need to go in search of subjects, for they meet you at every turn, and you long for many hands and eyes and minds, to work a dozen sketches at a time!</p><P>Here, as I sit in my own cosy little room, I look right down into the clear peaceful river Merced, which here glides along almost imperceptibly, while an upward glance, through a frame of pines and most fragrant poplars, reveals the exquisite Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Falls, whose waters join the Merced a little below this reach.  So at all times and seasons I can watch this most fascinating of shaggy "Grizzly Bears" (such is the meaning of its name)--the ghost of a bear surely, for it is often an ethereal floating thing.</p><P>In strong gales the wind carries the whole body of water high in air like a snowstorm or a white dust-storm, and sprinkles the mountain-summits; and at all times the spray flies like clouds of glittering dust, as if the granite walls were powdered by constant friction.</p><P>In a direct line the falls are only about a quarter of a mile from here, and sometimes their noise is like the roar of distant thunder; then it comes softened and subdued.  It is not quite continuous, but seems to pulsate at short regular intervals--a throbbing sound, as if the waters fell in successive leaps.</p><P>Sometimes the music of the waters sounds to me like the tremulous tones of some melodious harp--each vibration of the mighty strings heard separately in everlasting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:cadence; at other times, varying with the direction of the breeze, only a low musical murmur reaches me like the humming of a bustling busy bee.  Then perhaps a rattle, as if of musketry, suggests the crash of loosened fragments of rock--though the sound is often produced by the mere concussion of air and water.  To the same concussion is due the quivering and trembling of the ground, of which you are conscious when standing close to the falls, as though the very earth were overawed by the might of the rushing waters.</p><P>Like a true worshipper, I like to keep as much as possible within sight of this vision of beauty; so at meals I always occupy the same corner of the same table, next a window which commands a capital view both of it and of the quiet river.  So, although "men may come and men may go," I retain undisputed possession of this pet corner.</p><P>I observe that all dwellers in the valley become its faithful worshippers.  They speak of it reverently, with a personal love; and, like the Indians, more than half believe in spirits of winds and waters, mountains and forest.</p><P>I am not likely to prove an exception, as I have made all my arrangements to stay here for a couple of months longer.  Already I feel quite at home in my granite prison, and love its walls and every corner within them, each day revealing new beauties and interests, and of course I have made friends with all the inhabitants.</p><P>Mr David remained here three weeks, and proved an invaluable escort--always ready for everything, never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:confessing to being tired, even when burdened with my heavy sketching-gear, which he sometimes carried for miles over most difficult ground.  And then, when I had found the best point to draw from, he would leave me to work, while he explored the tops of a few neighbouring mountains in search of fresh subjects, returning in time to bring me safely back here to dinner.  Thanks to this systematic method of exploring, I know my ground fairly well, and can now moon about at my leisure, and work out studies already begun.</p><P>To me half the charm of this place is, that though there are now a great number of people in the valley--including some who are very pleasant--there is not the slightest occasion ever to see any one, except at meals; and then only supposing you happen to come in at orthodox hours, which is quite voluntary.</p><P>Speaking of meals and accommodation, it is very amusing to hear the comments of some of the rich Americans, whose ideas of hotels are all of palaces, and who had not realised that the end of their journey to the wilderness would land them in so simple a place as this.  To me the wonder is, how well so large an influx of visitors is provided for.</p><P>Though there is nothing fine, there is always abundance of good wholesome food--beef and mutton, milk and butter, fresh vegetables, and excellent bread--all the produce of the valley; besides all manner of good things imported from the plains--"canned" fruits and so forth.  A standing dish is so-called green corn (which is yellow maize <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:canned in its youth).  It is <HI REND="italics">de re&grave;gle</HI>
127.sgm: here for each person to have a separate little plate for each kind of vegetable, so that each large plate is encircled by a necklace of little ones.</p><P>I am told that the pastry is capital; but I eschew it, not liking the Chinese cook's method of preparing it!  I know he makes the bread in the same way, but I <HI REND="italics">have</HI>
127.sgm: to forget that!  In case you are not "up" in this pleasant topic, I may tell you that a Chinese baker or washerman has one unvarying method of damping his bread or his linen.  He keeps a bowl of water beside him, and with his long thin lips draws up a mouthful, which he then spurts forth in a cloud of the finest spray.  Having thus damped the surface evenly, and quite to his own satisfaction, he proceeds to roll his pastry or iron his table-cloth to that of all beholders.  It does not do in this world to pry too carefully into antecedents.  Results are the main point!</p><P>Some folk are so prejudiced, that they dislike John Chinaman's method of getting up snowy linen, and are content to pay a far higher price to have their washing done by any other race; so that a family of half-caste Spanish washerwomen who have settled here make a very good thing of it.</p><P>Bar this peculiarity, there is much to be said in favour of servants who are always ready, always obliging, at work early and late, and always trig and tidy, their hair as smooth as their calm faces, their clothes spotless.</p><P>The servants here are a scratch team of various nations.  You would wonder how so few can get through the work, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:till you see how much people in this country do for themselves.  For instance, to obtain such a superfluity as hot water at bedtime, I must go to the main house, find a candle in one place and a jug in another, and draw for myself from the kitchen boiler.  It is all very primitive, but far more to my taste than a "Palace Hotel" would be.  You see so much more of life and character.</p><P>This morning I sympathetically asked the housemaid, who was rapidly making the beds, whether she didn't find the sudden rush of work rather severe.  "Oh no!" she answered.  "You see, there is the Italian gentleman, who helps me with the slops!"  Every one is "a gentleman" in this country--though, so far as I can judge, it strikes me that the much-vaunted <HI REND="italics">equality</HI>
127.sgm: of all men consists in the inferiors deeming themselves equal to their superiors, who by no means tolerate the assumption!</p><P>There are a great many people in the valley now, of all sorts and kinds, but all are in their happiest holiday frame of mind.  Good temper must be infectious, for no one ever seems put out about anything, and every one exchanges kindly greetings, in the most easy unstiff manner.  Any one who keeps entirely aloof is either set down as an Englishman, or is said to be "putting on frills."  My own speech is rapidly becoming seasoned with new phrases.  I am convinced that when I come home I shall talk of shotguns and scatter-guns as distinguished from rifles, and shall call the retrievers "smell-dogs," and ask my friends if they are going out for a day's gunning, or to hunt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:grouse?  And I know I shall always say "how?" instead of "what?" and bid you "hurry up," and startle you by many other newly acquired expressions: "Why! certainly; you bet!!"  But on one point I stand firm: I will never call fireflies "lightning-bugs"! nor bees "sting-bugs"!</p><P>One thing I really cannot attain to, is the invariable custom of addressing one another as "Ma'am" and "Sir."  I know they think me very ill-bred, but there are limits beyond which assimilation cannot go.  I try to excuse myself on the plea that we reserve such honour for royalties, but I doubt if the excuse is considered valid; and yet I have no doubt that this is another instance in which the practice of our great-grandfathers and great-grandmothers has been handed down unchanged to their descendants, and that this is really a relic of the studied courtesies of the last century.  But numerous so-called Americanisms are simply old English phrases, which were in common use in the days of Queen Elizabeth: such are "to be mad," in the sense of being angry; "to be sick," as used to describe any illness; and "clever," to describe good-nature.</p><P>What we consider the peculiarly American use of the word "guess" is sanctioned by no less authorities than Chaucer, Locke, Milton, Spenser, and Shakespeare.  The latter is quoted as the authority not only for the frequent use of "guess" in this sense, but also for that of the much-criticised American expletive "well"--as, for instance, in Richard III., act iv. scene 4, where King Richard replies to Stanley in what we should call pure Yankee phraseology-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Well, as you guess?"<LB></HI>
127.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>But strangest of all is it to learn that even the verb to skedaddle is our own by birthright--a heritage from our Scandinavian ancestors.  And while Sweden retains the original word <HI REND="italics">skuddadahl</HI>
127.sgm:, and Denmark the kindred <HI REND="italics">skyededehl</HI>
127.sgm:, the milkmaids of Ayrshire and Dumfries still use the word in its old meaning-- <HI REND="italics">e.g</HI>
127.sgm:., "You are <HI REND="italics">skedaddling</HI>
127.sgm: all your milk."  The word is to be heard in various other counties, and is even to be found in an old Irish version of the New Testament, which runs thus,--"I will smite the shepherd, and the sheep shall be `sgedad-ol.'"</p><P>In the same way, our American cousins commonly use the old Saxon termination in such words as "gotten" and "waxen," which we only retain in the Bible, or in some of the most primitive of our rural districts--as, for instance, on the Northumbrian coast, where I well remember a fisher-wife greeting me, after an interval of some years, with the exclamation, "Eh! but ye are sair waxen," thereby implying that I was much grown.  And in Scotland, "Hae ye gotten ony?" is the popular equivalent for "Have you got any?"</p><P>Very strange to English ears is the application of the word "lunch," which here describes any irregular meal, whether eaten at daybreak or at midnight.  On our way here we halted for "lunch" at 7 P.M.  A man was carving some horribly underdone beef, and asked me whether I liked it "rare."  I supposed he meant "raw," but I find that this is the correct term here.  On referring to Johnson's Dictionary I find that "rare" does mean "raw," and that "lunch" is defined as "a handful of food"!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>But on the other hand, this admirable conservatism does not extend to modern language, and some of our commonest colloquial phrases, here convey a totally different meaning to that which we intend to express, or should wish to utter--a point on which I was warned by an English lady long resident in the country.  Thus the ignorant Briton who confesses to fatigue, in the ordinary schoolboy phraseology of "being quite knocked up," can scarcely fail to perceive, by the awkward pause that ensues, and by the scared faces of all within earshot, that this commonly accepted vulgarism, is here considered quite inadmissible.</p><P>Then, again, there are various words not recognised by Dr Johnson, which, though in use in the New World as well as in the Old, express wholly different ideas.  Thus, the sense of failure conveyed to the ear of an English schoolboy by the expression "having bossed his work," or of a sportsman having made a "boss" shot, would be the last thought suggested in a country where to be "boss" is to be master and superior.</p><P>But apart from phrases bordering on slang, many simple adjectives convey very different ideas to what they do in England.  Here, to say a person is "homely" is no praise--it implies personal ugliness; while to say he is "ugly" means that he is in a bad temper; and the most hideous woman may be described as "lovely" to express mental charms.  Then, again, "cunning" conveys no fox-like sneaking; on the contrary, it is high praise.  It may be applied to a pretty bonnet, or any other attractive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:object; while to speak of a cunning little child does not even imply the much-esteemed sharpness, but just that it is a winsome child--the very last idea which the word would convey to English ears.  And yet our grandparents described skilful workmen as cunning craftsmen.</p><P>The same distinction is to be observed with respect to various objects.  Thus, supposing you ask for a biscuit, you will be supplied with a hot roll, and will then learn that you should have asked for a cracker.  The hungry American who calls for crackers at an English restaurant must feel somewhat aggrieved at being supplied with jocular sugar-plums!</p><P>So it is, if you enter a draper's "store" intending to purchase muslins, calicoes, or cottons, you find that each name means one of the others, and the shopkeepers look as if they thought you an ignoramus.  Your tailor would likewise be much perplexed should you order a waistcoat instead of calling it a vest, or, <HI REND="italics">per contra</HI>
127.sgm:, "a vest" when you require a flannel waistcoast.</p><P>The frequent use of the word "elegant," as applied to such objects as the moon or its light, is also somewhat startling to the unaccustomed ear--especially when preceded by the word "real."  Imagine these majestic waterfalls, half revealed by the pale spiritual moonbeams, being described as "real elegant"!</p><P>Speaking of loyally adhering to the practice of one's ancestors, I have just had the pleasure of making acquaintance with a New England family who have done so faithfully.  We have often noticed the talent possessed by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:great family of Smith for devising distinctive prefixes, from the days of the Diphthong Smiths (the &aelig;sops, the &aelig;neas, the &aelig;gon, the &aelig;thon, and all the other Smiths) onwards.  But here my attention was riveted by a prefix altogether new to me--namely, the Preserved Smith.<ANCHOR ID="n10-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-11">Should these pages ever chance to come under the notice of any member of this family, I am sure they will forgive my quoting this singular and interesting origin of the name they bear.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Feeling convinced that the name must have reference to some event of interest, I took an opportunity of making friends with the mother of the family (a pleasant lady, with pretty silvery hair), and asked her its origin.  She told me that about four generations back, a stanch Puritan, of the name of Smith, came out from England with his wife.  They had a fearfully tempestuous voyage, and were much knocked about, and in great peril.  The exposure and danger to which they were subjected were such as to make it a matter of unusual congratulation when, soon after their landing in New England, a son was born, to whom, in memory of what seemed their almost miraculous preservation, they gave the name of "Preserved"; and this very characteristic title has ever since been transmitted from father to son!  The wife and mother of the present owners of the name gave me most interesting accounts of those olden days.</p><P>I have several times been very much amused by listening to the general conversation in the public sitting-room or the open verandah.  One day recently it turned on the divorce laws of the United States, which certainly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:must rank among the legal curiosities of the world.  Each State has its own particular law, quite irrespective of that of its next neighbour.  Thus a man who has divorced several wives in succession in one State, and considers himself a gay bachelor, may, on moving into another, be followed by all the wives, and find himself, in American phrase, "very much married"!  So diverse are the marriage laws, that, without ever leaving the Eastern States, a couple travelling from north to south (say from Maine to Louisiana, which they might do in thirty hours) would pass through twelve States, in each of which they would be subject to distinct and very different laws.</p><P>In some States fourteen separate causes are recognised, any one of which is sufficient ground for divorce.  The Tennessee law courts grant a divorce to any man who chooses to settle there, and whose wife objects to accompany him; while in Indiana the power of the judge is practically unlimited, as he can grant a divorce in any case in which he considers the petition "reasonable and proper."  But the climax of judicial authority was attained by a judge in Missouri, who brought his domestic troubles for trial at his own bar, and formally sat in judgment on his own suit.  Having satisfactorily proved that his wife had been in "the mad dumps silently, for three days," he ruled in his own favour, and pronounced his own divorce to his entire satisfaction!!</p><P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
127.sgm: 24 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>After a morning of heavy rain, the sky suddenly brightened, and I joined a party to drive to the Bridal Veil Falls, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:at the entrance to the valley.  They are now a grand sight; but indeed the whole expedition was beautiful.  The atmosphere seemed even clearer than is its wont, the brilliant sunlight casting sharp shadows, and bringing out the rich colouring of the spring verdure.  Now all the trees are bursting into leaf; each willow is a misty cloud of delicate young foliage, and the showers of white down from the cotton-wood are wafted by every breath of air, like feathery snow-flakes.</p><P>But the green meadows have vanished, and in their place lies a tranquil lake, calm and still, reflecting the clumps of dark pine and oak.  The ordinary course of the river is only to be traced by the fringe of alders, willows, and poplars, cotton-wood, and balm of Gilead, which love its banks.</p><P>There are waterfalls in all directions.  Down every steep ravine they come, flashing in brightness--clouds of white vapour, and rockets that seem to fall from heaven.  All the water-nymphs are keeping holiday, and a thousand rainbows tremble on the columns of sparkling spray which flash in and out among the tall pines--such fine spray, that as you pass near, it soaks you unawares.  These extempore falls merely flow across the main road in sparkling rills and rivulets; but the regular falls form roaring, foaming torrents, through which, even at the fords, horses have considerable difficulty in passing, and the heavily laden coaches cause their drivers some anxious moments when the waters are rushing with more than their wonted force.</p><P>Loveliest of all the temporary falls is that which is now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:playing round the summit of El Capitan--an ethereal foam-cloud, which is caught up by the wind, and borne aloft high in mid-air, a filmy veil of the finest mist, white as steam, floating above the grim rock.</p><P>On the opposite side of the valley, the so-called Bridal Veil is now a thundering cataract of surging waters, raging tumultuously, and rushing down across the green meadows in a perfect network of streams, all hurrying to pay their tribute to the Merced.</p><P>Keeping well to the left of these extempore torrents, we picked our way through the pine-woods, and after a stiff scramble among the fallen rocks at the base of the crags, we reached a point whence we obtained a magnificent view of the falls, shooting past us sideways, which is always the finest aspect of a heavy fall.  These rushing waters have an indescribable fascination, which held us riveted--till at last, giddy with their noise and motion, and drenched with spray, we returned on our downward scramble, half envying the streams which leaped so lightly from rock to rock.</p><P>Grand as these falls now are in flood, I thought them more graceful when they were less full.  Then they really were suggestive of a gossamer veil of light and mist, woven by the fairies for the bride of the Sierras; for never was fall more exquisite than this cloud of tremulous vapour, silently swayed by every breath of air enfolding the rock, sometimes entwining its feet, then tossed aloft as a gauze-like cloud, far above the brink, blending with the white clouds of heaven, the rainbows playing on the spray like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the light from flashing diamonds--a cincture of gems, ever in motion.</p><P>So, perhaps, in this instance we may be content to accept the modern name, though the Indians still call it Pohono, "the Spirit of the Evil Wind."</p><P>I do think it is a thousand pities that wherever the Anglo-Saxon race settles, it uproots the picturesque and generally descriptive native names of mountains and streams, and in their stead bestows some new name, which at best is commonplace, and too often vulgar.</p><P>Happily this majestic valley has fared better in this respect than many humbler districts, though I am sure you will agree with me in thinking that even here many names would have been better left unchanged.  For instance, "Pi-wa-ack," which means "the glittering waters," surely better describes a singularly sparkling waterfall than the senseless word "Vernal."</p><P>The highest fall in the valley, reckoned at 3300 feet, is called by the Indians Lung-oo-too-koo-ya, which means "long-drawn-out," and exactly describes the very narrow stream which leaps from so great a height.  It is also said to mean "the pigeon's creek," and to be descriptive of their plaintive note.  But to white men these poetic meanings are alike lost, and replaced by the Ribbon Fall or the Virgin's Tears.</p><P>The To-lool-weack, or Rushing Water, is now known as the South Fork, or the Illillouette; while the Yo-wi-ye, or Great Twisted Water--a singularly descriptive name--was changed by some Spanish priest to Nevada, <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
127.sgm:. snow.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:The Sentinel Rock is still known to the Indian as Loya, the signal station; and the great overhanging rocks which bear the name of Royal Arches, are dear to Indian mothers as To-coy-&oelig;-- <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
127.sgm:., the projecting cover which shades the head of the papoose in its basket-cradle.</p><P>Tis-sa-ack, called after a beautiful pale spirit whom the Indians believe to have rested thereon, is now only the South Dome--a granite mountain, and nothing more.</p><P>The stupendous crag which guards the entrance to the valley, and which is now known as El Capitan, was called by the Indians To-tok-o-nula, in imitation of the wild cries uttered by the to-tok-an, or sandhill-crane, when, flying over the rock, it enters the valley in search of winter quarters.  The west side of the crag was called Ajemu (by which name the Indians call the manzanita), this being a spot where they resorted to gather its berries.</p><P>The two triple groups of hills towering above the entrance of the valley on the right hand and on the left--formerly Wah-wah-lena and Pom-pom-pasus, or the leaping-frogs--are now the Three Brothers and the Three Graces.  Formerly, Mount Watkins was called Wai-you, meaning the Juniper Mountain.  The Glacier Point was Pa-tillima.  The splintered rock near the Great Fall was Ummo, the lost arrow.  A quiet streamlet near was Ollenya--namely, the frog's brook.  I am not sure that I regret the substitution of "Cathedral Spires" for "Po-see-nah-chuck-ka," which means "the mouse's acorn-basket"; the new name is in itself strikingly descriptive of the massive pinnacles, and the train of association infinitely preferable.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>But it is in the neighbourhood of mining districts that names bestowed by white men convey the least pleasant suggestions.  I heard a vast number of these quoted to-day by some gentlemen engaged in superintending mining work, whose wanderings have led them to many a wild settlement, where the diggers have pitched their camps at various times, and then moved off in search of richer fields: needless to remark that such names were generally as rough-and-ready as the nicknames applied to one another.</p><P>A pleasantly suggestive name was Hell's Delight; nor were Mad Canyon, Git-up-and-Git, Devil's Basin, Rattle-snake Bar, or Gouge Eye specially attractive.  Jackass Gulch, Greaser's Camp, Loafer Hill, Rag-town, Chuckle-head Diggings, Greenhorn Canyon, Petticoat Slide, and Shirt-tail Canyon, doubtless each commemorates some rough adventure or coarse jest.</p><P>Perhaps Hog's Diggings, Hungry Camp, Last Chance, Love-letter Camp, Poverty Hill, and Graveyard Canyon had stories as intensely pathetic as the `Luck of Roaring Camp,' and only need a Bret Harte to bring them home to our sympathies.</p><P>Coon Hollow, Skunk Gulch, Wildcat Bar, Centipede Hollow, Grizzly Flat, and Wild Goose Flat give a hint of some small sport; while Humbug Canyon, Quack Hill, Gospel Gulch, Gospel Swamp, Piety Hill, and Christian Flat may perhaps record some struggling ray of better things, which all the scoffing and sneers of "Hell's Delight" could not wholly exclude.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>I suppose Seventy-Six, Seven-Up Valley, and Seven-by-Nine Valley refer to some gambling transaction, related to Brandy Gulch and Whisky Bar.  But there is a savour of comfort in Pancake Ravine and Slap-Jack Bar.  Perhaps one of the quaintest of these traces of the gold fever is the name "Tin Cup," which was given to a district so rich in gold that the lucky miners measured their wealth in pint tin-cups!</p><P><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
127.sgm: 4 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>I am becoming daily more and more enamoured of the valley. The grandeur impresses one more and more every day one stays in it, becoming more familiar with the endless loveliness of all its details.  Moreover, I delight in its free and independent life, with abundant comfort and no stiffness; with plenty of kindly folk always ready to be friendly, if one is inclined for society, but who never think of intruding uninvited.</p><P>And the valley with its surroundings is so vast that, though there are now fully two hundred white people in it, and about fifty ponies start every morning from the hotels, one may roam about from morning till night and never meet a living soul, except, perhaps, a few tame Indians.  I do not think that on all my solitary sketching-days put together, I have seen half-a-dozen white faces; and the Indians do not count for much, as they cannot speak a word of English.</p><P>I constantly come down at about five in the morning--sometimes earlier.  The waiters know my manners and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:customs, so they leave bread and butter and cold meat where I can find them; and as the kitchen-fire seems never to go out, and the coffee is always on the boil, whether John Chinaman is at his post or not, I forage for myself, and after a comfortable breakfast, prepare my luncheon, shoulder my sketching-gear, and start for the day, with the delightful conviction that I can work or be idle, as inclination prompts, from dawn till sunset, unmolested.</p><P>Early rising here is really no exertion, and it brings its own reward, for there is an indescribable charm in the early gloaming as it steals over the Sierras--a freshness and an exquisite purity of atmosphere which thrills through one's being like a breath of the life celestial.</p><P>If you would enjoy it to perfection, you must steal out alone ere the glory of the starlight has paled,--as I did this morning, following a devious pathway between thickets of azalea, whose heavenly fragrance perfumed the valley.  Then, ascending a steep track through the pine-forest, I reached a bald grey crag, commanding a glorious view of the valley, and of some of the high peaks beyond.  And thence I watched the coming of the dawn.</p><P>A pale daffodil light crept upward, and the stars faded from heaven.  Then the great ghostly granite domes changed from deep purple to a cold dead white, and the far-distant snow-capped peaks stood out in glittering light, while silvery-grey mists floated upward from the canyons, as if awakening from their sleep.  Here, just as in our own Highlands, a faint chill breath of some cold current <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:invariably heralds the daybreak, and the tremulous leaves quiver, and whisper a greeting to the dawn.</p><P>Suddenly a faint flush of rosy light just tinged the highest snow-peaks, and, gradually stealing downward, overspread range beyond range; another moment, and the granite domes and the great Rock Sentinel alike blazed in the fiery glow, which deepened in colour till all the higher crags seemed aflame, while the valley still lay shrouded in purple gloom, and a great and solemn stillness brooded over all.</p><P>I spent most of the day at that grand watch-post, till the purple clouds, gathering on every side, warned me of an approaching storm, when I hurried down, and (wading knee-deep across a flooded rivulet) reached a cattle-shed just in time to get into its shelter, when a tremendous thunderstorm burst right overhead, followed by a rattling hailstorm, each hailstone the size of a large pea.  Then the sky cleared, and the evening was radiant as the morning.</p><P>In the month that I have already spent here, I have watched the magic change from winter to summer--from melting snows to sheets of flowers--and the fields of wild strawberries have gone a step further, and have changed from blossom to berry.  I have watched the chaparral-- <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
127.sgm:., flowery brushwood--which clothes the base of the crags, change from wintry undress to the richest summer beauty.  First came a veil of freshest spring-green, and now a wealth of delicate blossoms perfumes the whole air.</p><P>There is the Californian lilac, here called "The Beauty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:of the Sierras,"<ANCHOR ID="n10-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: which bears thick brush-like clusters of fragrant pale-blue blossom, consisting chiefly of stamens, with very little calyx.  Then there is the Buck-eye or California chestnut,<ANCHOR ID="n10-13">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: and the Blackthorn, and the silvery-leaved manzanita,<ANCHOR ID="n10-14">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: which is a kind of arbutus (akin, I suppose, to the madron&tilde;a of the Coast Range).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-12"><HI REND="italics">Ceanothus</HI>
127.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-13"><HI REND="italics">&aelig;sculus Californica</HI>
127.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-14"><HI REND="italics">Arctostaphylos glauca</HI>
127.sgm:<P>This bears waxy pink bells, and is the most characteristic shrub of California.  It is a small shrub, but mighty in strength, for it works its way through cracks and crevices, and splits the solid rock as silently but as effectually as does the frost.  On the bleakest exposures, where soil is scantiest, there above all it flourishes; and its smooth, rich maroon-coloured bark gives a point of warm colour to the cold grey cliffs.  Walking-sticks made of its curiously twisted ruddy branches find great favour with travellers as mementoes of the valley.</p><P>It seemed like a dream of English shrubberies when, in many a sunny nook, I came on banks of crimson ribes, and white bird-cherry, and day by day watched them first bud, and then burst into bloom.</p><P>One shrub new to me is the dogwood,<ANCHOR ID="n10-15">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: --a small tree, literally covered with starry blossoms like large scentless roses, snow-white, and about three inches in diameter.  But far above all, in this realm of delight, I have watched the dense thickets of azalea all along the river, and at the base of the crags, transform themselves from leafless sticks into sheets of fragrant yellow blossom--the most heavenly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:of all delicate perfumes.  A sunny corner among the mossy rocks, in an azalea thicket, is a foretaste of Paradise!</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-15"><HI REND="italics">Cornus Nuttallii</HI>
127.sgm:<P>Then wherever you turn, in the meadows or the canyons, there has sprung up a carpet of flowers of every hue, in amazing profusion.  It is as if all the glory of which I had a glimpse in Easter-week on the seaboard had been transferred to this upper world, where every valley is now flower-strewn.  Sweet wild-roses, blue and yellow lupines, scarlet columbine and painter's brush, blue nemophila, purple-spotted nemophila, blue larkspur, scarlet lychnis, yellow eschscholtzia, scarlet and blue pentstemon, golden rod, Mariposa lilies, fritillaria, heart's-ease, dandelion, blue gentian, bluebells, phloxes, white ranunculus, yellow mimulus, marigold, and many another lovely blossom, each add their mite of gay colouring to the perfect scene, like threads in some rich tapestry.</p><P>Every evening I carry home a handful of the loveliest, to adorn my special table in the dining-room, at which the excellent landlord takes care always to place such new arrivals as he thinks likely to prove most agreeable to me.  And I am bound to say he has provided a succession of very pleasant companions--some from England, some from the Eastern States.  And there is no denying that after a long day alone with the bees and the squirrels, it is cheery to find nice neighbours at dinner.</p><P><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
127.sgm: 14 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>Of course every one who comes here is on the travel.  They have either been exploring South or Central America <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:or New Zealand, or they have just arrived from India, China, and Japan, or from the Eastern United States.  The latter seem to consider a journey here, a far more serious undertaking than a tour over the whole continent of Europe.  Two gentlemen arrived here straight from Fiji, bringing me the latest news of all my friends there.<ANCHOR ID="n10-16">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-16">A third gentleman from Fiji arrived a few days later.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Altogether this strange chasm in the mighty mass of granite mountains is really quite a large little world.  Heads of department--legal, military, and medical, from various British colonies--stray members of foreign embassies, Oxford and Cambridge men on vacation tours, ecclesiastical authorities of all denominations, mighty hunters, actors, artists, farmers, miners, men who have lived through California's stormy days, when derringers and revolvers were the lawgivers,--these are but a sample of the mixed multitude who meet here with one object in common, and who, one and all, confess that their expectations are surpassed.</p><P>I know of no other "sight"--save the Taj Mahal--which so invariably exceeds the fancy-pictures of its pilgrims.</p><P>The worst of it is, that the majority of " <HI REND="italics">bona&circ;fide</HI>
127.sgm: travellers," ignorant of the country, arrive here, having made their irrevocable plans, by the advice of coach-agents, on certain cut-and-dry calculations of time, which generally assume that three days in the valley is ample allowance.  So they spend their three days rushing from point to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:point, missing half the finest scenes, and then resume their dust-coats, and rattle away again, with a general impression of fuss and exhaustion.<ANCHOR ID="n10-17">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-17">A most aggravating instance of such miscalculation was that of two English gentlemen who arrived a few days later, being bound to catch a particular steamer at San Francisco, discovered, on reaching the valley, that they had exactly two hours to remain in it, and must start by the afternoon coach.  Like true Britons, they devoted their short visit to a refreshing bathe in the ice-cold waters of the Merced, followed by a hasty luncheon, and then bade a regretful farewell to the scenes they would so fain have explored at leisure.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Some of these travellers have so recently left England that they bring me much welcome home-news; for some prove to be old acquaintances, and others are friends' friends, a title which (however little it may mean in England) is a great reality in far countries.  So you can perhaps understand with what true interest I look at the Hotel Register every evening to see who may have arrived by the three daily coaches.</p><P>Very different coaches, by the way, to the extremely uncomfortable one in which we jolted all the way here in the early spring.  Now, the roads are in good order, and large luxurious open coaches rattle over the ground.  I am bound to say, however, that this season has one terrible disadvantage in the clouds of dust.  The wretched travellers arrive half suffocated, and looking very much as if they had walked out of flour-bags; but the flour is finely sifted granite-dust, most cutting to the eyes.</p><P>As the coach draws up, out rush the waiters and other attendants armed with feather-brushes, which they apply vigorously to the heads of the new-comers, and then help <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:to pull off their large dust-coats--most necessary garments in this country.</p><P>I notice with interest and curiosity the number of ladies, both English and American, who find their way here.  In all my previous wanderings (in India, Ceylon, New Zealand, Australia, and the other South Pacific Isles, extending over a period of eight years) I have only met one woman travelling absolutely for pleasure.  Here there are many--amongst whom I am especially attracted by a very nice, gentle, little old lady, who, at the age of sixty-eight, has taken a craving to see the world before she dies; and although her means are so restricted that she has to study economy at every turn, she is exploring the earth in the most systematic and plucky manner, like a second Ida Pfeiffer.</p><P>Among our most attractive inmates is a very <HI REND="italics">piquante</HI>
127.sgm: little French lady, who warbles like a nightingale, and sings us <HI REND="italics">ravissantes</HI>
127.sgm: little French ballads, as we sit out in the moonlight or starlight, beside the river, among the fragrant azaleas.</p><P>But the most interesting of my new acquaintances is a very handsome young American doctor, to whom I honestly confess I should lose my heart were I a young patient!  A good linguist, a good musician, clever and intellectual.  So good-looking and attractive a doctor should act as a charm on the sufferers.</p><P>The most curious thing about it is, that my doctor wears the most dainty little feminine garments, and first attracted my attention by the charm of a pensive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Madonna-like beauty.  In short, <HI REND="italics">she</HI>
127.sgm: is a handsome, well-educated American girl, travelling with her parents, who are pleasant as herself.</p><P>Judge of my astonishment when she told me that she hoped I would look her up...at the medical college in Philadelphia!  I then learned that she had recently graduated at Vassa College, and hopes very soon to start in regular practice, in which she tells me many women are now making their ten or fifteen thousand a-year (dollars, not pounds).  This is indeed a case of "sweet girl graduates"!  You see, I have been living among savages, so am not up to the progress of the age.  To hear my pretty friend talking familiarly of Professor This or That (all women), and of its being a relic of barbarism for women to be attended by male doctors, was to me really quite a curiosity.<ANCHOR ID="n10-18">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-18">Still stranger did it seem to me to hear of the women lawyers in America.  It appears that the Supreme Court of Massachusetts having decided that only men were entitled to practise in the courts of that State, the Legislature is to be appealed to, and a bill has been introduced to admit women on equal terms with men.  It may be added that they are so admitted already in Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, Maine, Michigan, Minnesota, North Carolina, Ohio, and Wisconsin.  Further, by an Act of Congress passed in 1879, those women who have been for three years members of the bar of the highest court of any State or territory, or of the Supreme Court of the District of Columbia, may be admitted to practise in the United States Supreme Court.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>For a few days there was rather a noisy invasion--a large family party from Southern California, overflowing with exuberant life, which could not be quelled even by the toilsome ascent of every high point, but had to find <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:vent in the evenings by riotous infantile games, in which all around were urged to join.  One evening they sang prettily in chorus.  Suddenly my patriotic soul was thrilled by the sound of "God save the Queen!" (which I have only heard once in the last two years, played by the French band at Tahiti)--so I drew near to listen, and heard unknown words.  Wondering, I asked what they were singing.  They looked amazed at such ignorance, and answered-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"My country, 'tis of thee,<LB>Sweet Land of Liberty!"<LB></HI>
127.sgm:</p><P>On my being unable to refrain from a slight expression not altogether sympathetic, my informant added, "Well, I reckon we've as good a right to sing American words to `God save the Queen!' as you Britons have to call our Sequoias Wellingtonias!"--which was just, if not generous.</p><P>This storming-party held the valley for a week, and then departed, saying they had had "a real good time"!</p><P>Happily most folk seem rather hushed by the solemn beauty of the place, and the awful stillness of the mountains.  Boisterous merriment seems as much out of place as it would be in a grand cathedral--indeed there are few who do not unconsciously shrink from loud mirth as almost irreverent.</p><P>On several Sundays we have had very interesting services held in a large room<ANCHOR ID="n10-19">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: by representatives of sundry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:and divers denominations.  Curiously enough, the first was conducted by the Rev. George Mu&die;ller, of the Bristol Orphanage, whose name is so familiar to English ears.  On Whitsunday the valley was found to contain parsons of all manner of sects; so they agreed to hold a joint service in the "Cosmopolitan Hall," where Congregationalists, Presbyterians, and a Unitarian minister gave addresses by turns, interspersed with exceedingly pretty part-singing in the Moody and Sankey style, most of the congregation being apparently trained singers.  I doubt whether a similar promiscuous gathering in England could produce as pleasant music.  It struck me that this good hymn-singing seemed a great promoter of harmony among these preachers of divers creeds.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-19">The valley now possesses a real church.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Of course the natural loveliness of this rock-girt shrine affords ample material for illustration, and the texts which naturally suggest themselves are those which draw their imagery from the mountains.  "As the hills stand about Jerusalem, so standeth the Lord round about His people."  "The strength of the hills is His."  "The earth is full of His praise."  "The Lord shall rejoice in His works.  He clave the hard rocks in the wilderness; He brought waters out of the stony rock."  "Thou didst cleave the earth with rivers; the mountains saw Thee and they trembled; the overflowing of the water passed by."  "His voice is as the sound of many waters."  "Strength and beauty are in His sanctuary."</p><P>Such words as these seem fitting as we look up to the sheer granite cliffs and massive rock-towers gleaming in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:dazzling brightness against the azure sky, and the water-floods pouring down in snow-white cataracts.</p><P>I have been much struck with the extreme fluency of most of the speakers, and am told it is an ordinary characteristic of the American clergy--a very pleasant one for their hearers, who, however, do not seem far ahead of ourselves in practising the precepts so ably taught.  One of our parsons remarked that preaching the Gospel to some folk was like pouring water over a sponge, which drank it in and retained it; but to others it was like the wind blowing through a hen-coop,--and his experience of preaching led him to believe that his congregations numbered many hen-coops, but few sponges!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>A GENERAL SKETCH OF THE MOUNTAIN-RANGES OF CALIFORNIA.</p><P><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
127.sgm: 15 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>FOR some time I have been feeling so puzzled while attempting to follow the discussions of various travellers (as they gather at night round the blazing wood-fire in the Big-Tree room), that this morning I determined to give myself a geological-geography lesson; so, armed with Professor Whitney's `Notes on the Geology of California,' I sallied forth in search of a quiet nook wherein to study them undisturbed.  I found a retreat fit for any sage, in a natural hermitage, formed by a huge granite-boulder resting on two others, some way up the hill.  It is carpeted with greenest grass, gay with flowers, and the overhanging oaks make a frame through which the distant fall appears like a shadowy spirit.</p><P>There I sat, till I had taken in some of the main points, and their bearing on the various statements I have recently heard; and now, as I daresay you know no more on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:subject than I did, I shall give you an outline of my newly acquired knowledge, hoping thereby to impress it on my own memory!</p><P>First, then, I must remind you how, in our early school-room days, we were taught to call the great mountain-ranges of Western America "The Cordilleras," which was the name given by the Spanish settlers to describe the many chains of mountains which trend north and south from Patagonia to British America, forming the sinews of the vast continent.  In South America, these mountain cords were defined as Cordilleras of the Andes, that grand simple range usurping the supremacy beyond all question.</p><P>But the Cordilleras of North America comprise a great number of ranges, intricate as the cordage of a ship.  Nearest to the shores of the Pacific lies the Coast Range, which is composed of a multitude of subordinate ranges, most of which bear the name of some Christian saint, bestowed on them by the early Spanish-Mexican settlers.  This region is described as a sea with "innumerable waves of mountains and wavelets of spurs."</p><P>It is a comparatively low range, its highest points not exceeding 8000 feet, while those near San Francisco are only about half that height.  Mount Hamilton, the highest point visible from San Francisco, is 4440 feet high.  The charm of the range consists chiefly in the beauty of its slopes and fertile valleys, and of their rich vegetation, including the magnificent forests of redwood cedar, which belongs exclusively to the Coast Range.</p><P>The southern part of the range must, from all accounts, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:be a pleasant region in which to make a home.  Its park-like slopes are dotted with splendid evergreen oaks, its soil is productive, and its climate delightful.  It has no winter.  Six months of delightful spring are followed by a long summer of unvarying brilliancy; but the blazing sun is tempered by sweet sea-breezes (not always free from fog, I suspect).  In summer the land becomes burnt up and yellow, but in the spring its fresh beauty is unsurpassable.</p><P>The northern part of the range is less favoured.  In winter, snow generally lies for some days, and occasionally for weeks.  Part of the range is described as "the chaparral waste," being made up of a wilderness of ridges all so densely covered with chaparral, that even sportsmen shrink from attempting to penetrate it.  I should mention that chaparral is the name here given to dense brushwood, made up of low shrubs, such as the scrub-oak, with its cruel thorns, and the still more dreaded poison-oak.  You can imagine that such thickets are not inviting!</p><P>The next "cord" is the mighty Snowy Range.  It is separated from the Coast Range by the Great Valley-- <HI REND="italics">i.e.</HI>
127.sgm:, the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys, which run north and south for a distance of about 500 miles.  At either end the two ranges meet and blend in a perfect labyrinth of ridges, and form innumerable deep valleys and ravines, most bewildering to the explorer.</p><P>The Sierras are, as it were, strands in the mightiest of the Cordilleras.  The name applies to the western belt (about 80 miles wide) of a vast wilderness of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:mountain-chains built up in intricate ridges on the great plateau, 1000 miles in width, which forms the watershed of the continent.</p><P>The Sierras trend north and south through the States of Washington, Oregon, California, and Mexico.  The great plateau includes Oregon, Idaho, Nevada, Utah, and Arizona.</p><P>The parallel mountain-chain on the eastern edge of the plateau is known as the Rocky Mountains.  It is a belt 700 miles in width, and trends through the States of Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico.</p><P>As compared with the Sierra Nevada, the Rocky Mountains lose much of their dignity, from the fact that they rise from a base 6000 feet above the sea-level; and this high pedestal is reached by an almost imperceptible ascent, the prairie sloping gently upwards all the way from the Mississippi, a distance of 600 miles.  So, although the mountain-summits do rise to 12,000 and 14,000 feet, half their apparent height is lost--as it were, buried--in this deep deposit.</p><P>The Sierras, on the other hand, are within a hundred miles of the seaboard, and rise at a far more abrupt gradient, thereby gaining vastly in apparent height.</p><P>But if the Rocky Mountains summits fail to impress a full sense of their true height, there is one respect in which they stand pre-eminent--namely, in the stupendous canyons which seam them in every direction,--gigantic ghastly chasms, the existence of which is attributed to the ceaseless rushing of mountain torrents, wearing for themselves ever-deepening channels.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>These gruesome gorges wind about, apparently in the very bowels of the earth, and the bold explorer who tries to follow the course of the waters, looks up two perpendicular rock-walls, several thousand feet in height, to a narrow strip of sky far, far overhead, well knowing how hopeless would be any attempt to reach the upper earth.  Fearful and thrilling have been the adventures of prospectors, who, in their determination to find the mountain's hidden treasures of gold and silver, have dared to face every danger that could be combined--hostile Indians, hostile nature, and most appalling hardships.</p><P>Undoubtedly the thirst for gold has done good service to geographical research in the vast barren tracts of mountainous country.  In themselves most uninviting, they offer such possibilities of mineral wealth as induce a large number of adventurous men (to whom danger and hardships are as second nature) to undertake the most perilous journeys in order to explore the inhospitable desert and hungry regions of these Western wilds.</p><P>These men have traversed every mountain and valley, and have examined the soil of every creek and gully, and the sand of every river, in the most inaccessible regions; and there are few who could not, if they chose, tell of hairbreadth adventures and deeds of daring.  Some have been left sole survivors of their party, escaping from wild Indians to find themselves lost in awful canyons and chasms, from which escape seemed impossible, and where starvation stared them in the face.</p><P>Yet by some means or other, and by the exercise of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:almost superhuman endurance, they have found their way back to the haunts of white men, and have added their hardly earned knowledge to that of a multitude of other explorers; and so, little by little, the nature of the country has come to be pretty well defined.</p><P>Probably the greatest chasm in the known world is the Grand Canyon of the Colorado river (the Rio Colorado Grande), which is a gorge upwards of 200 miles in length, and of tremendous depth.  Throughout this distance its vertical crags measure from <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
127.sgm: to upwards of <HI REND="italics">six thousand feet</HI>
127.sgm: in depth!  Think of it!  The highest mountain in Scotland measures 4418 feet.  The height of Niagara is 145 feet.  And here is a narrow tortuous pass where the river has eaten its way to a depth of 6200 feet between vertical granite crags!</p><P>Throughout this canyon there is no cascade; and though the river descends 16,000 feet within a very short distance, forming rushing rapids, it is nevertheless possible to descend it by a raft--and this has actually been done, in defiance of the most appalling dangers and hardships.  It is such a perilous adventure as to be deemed worthy of note even in this country, where every prospector carries his life in his hand, and to whom danger is the seasoning of daily life, which, without it, would appear positively monotonous.</p><P>I suppose no river in the world passes through scenery so extraordinary as does the Colorado river, in its journey of 2000 miles from its birthplace in the Rocky Mountains, till, traversing the burning plains of New Mexico, it ends <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:its course in the Gulf of California.  Its early career is uneventful.  In its youth it bears a maiden name, and, as the Green river, wends its way joyously through the upper forests.  Then it reaches that ghastly country known as the <HI REND="italics">mauvaises terres</HI>
127.sgm: of Utah and Arizona--a vast region (extending also into Nevada and Wyoming), which, by the ceaseless action of water, has been carved into an intricate labyrinth of deep gloomy canyons.</p><P>For a distance of <HI REND="italics">one thousand miles</HI>
127.sgm: the river winds its tortuous course through these stupendous granite gorges, receiving the waters of many tributary streams, each rushing along similar deeply hewn channels.</p><P>In all the range of fiction no adventures can be devised more terrible than those which have actually befallen gold-seekers and hunters who, from any cause, have strayed into this dreary and awesome region.  It was first discovered by two bold explorers, by name Strobe and White, who, being attacked by Indians, took refuge in the canyons.  Preferring to face unknown dangers to certain death at the hands of the enemy, they managed to collect enough timber to construct a rude raft, and determined to attempt the descent.</p><P>Once embarked on that awful journey, there was no returning--they must endure to the bitter end.</p><P>On the fourth day the raft was upset.  Strobe was drowned, and the little store of provisions and ammunition was lost.  White contrived to right the raft, and for ten days the rushing waters bore him down the frightful chasm, seeing only the perpendicular cliffs on either side, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:and the strip of sky far overhead--never knowing, from hour to hour, but that at the next winding of the canyon the stream might overleap some mighty precipice, and so end his long anguish.  During those awful ten days of famine, a few leaves and seed-pods, clutched from the bushes on the rocks, were his only food.</p><P>At length he reached a wretched settlement of half-bred Mexicans, who, deeming his escape miraculous, fed him; and eventually he reached the homes of white men, who looked on him (as well they might) as on one returned from the grave.  The life thus wonderfully saved was, however, sacrificed a few months later, when he fell into the hands of his old Indian foes.</p><P>The story of White's adventure was confirmed by various trappers and prospectors, who, from time to time, ventured some little way into this mysterious rock-labyrinth; and it was determined to attempt a Government survey of the region.  Accordingly, in 1869, a party, commanded by Major J. W. Powell, started on this most interesting but dangerous expedition.  Warned by the fate of a party who attempted to explore the country in 1855, and who, with the exception of two men (Ashley and another), all perished miserably, the Government party started with all possible precautions.</p><P>Four light Chicago-built boats were provisioned for six months, and, with infinite difficulty, were transported 1500 miles across the desert.  On reaching their starting-point, they were lowered into the awful ravines, from which it was, to say the least, problematic whether all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:would emerge alive.  The dangers, great enough in reality, had been magnified by rumour.  It was reported, with every semblance of probability, that the river formed terrible whirlpools--that it flowed underground for hundreds of miles, and emerged only to fall in mighty cataracts and appalling rapids.  Even the friendly Indians entreated the explorers not to attempt so rash an enterprise, assuring them that none who embarked on that stream would escape alive.</p><P>But in face of all such counsel, the expedition started, and for upwards of three months the party travelled, one may almost say, in the bowels of the earth--at least in her deepest furrows--through canyons where the cliffs rise, sheer from the water, to a height of three quarters of a mile!</p><P>They found, as was only natural, that imagination had exaggerated the horrors of the situation, and that it was possible to follow the rock-girt course of the Colorado through all its wanderings--not without danger, of course.  In many places the boats had to be carried.  One was totally wrecked and its cargo lost, and the others came to partial grief, entailing the loss of valuable instruments, and almost more precious provisions.  Though no subterranean passage was discovered, nor any actual water-fall, there were nevertheless such dangerous rapids as to necessitate frequent troublesome portage; and, altogether, the expedition had its full share of adventure.</p><P>The ground was found to vary considerably.  In some places the rock is so vivid in color--red and orange-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:that the canyons were distinguished as the Red Canyon and the Flaming Gorge.  Some are mere fissures of tremendous depth; while in other places, where the water has carved its way more freely, they are broad, here and there expanding into a fertile oasis, where green turf and lovely groves are enclosed by stupendous crags--miniature Yo&macr;-semite&acute;s--which to these travellers appeared to be indeed visions of Paradise.</p><P>I do not hear of any canyons of this description in the Sierra Nevada--a name which is generally applied to the whole range, extending from Tejon Pass in Southern California, to Mount Shasta in the north, a distance of about 550 miles.  Some geologists, however, do not admit the use of the term farther north than Lassen's Peak, which is a grand volcanic snow-capped mountain, beyond which a great volcanic plateau stretches to the north.</p><P>On this grand base is built up Mount Shasta, which is the Californian counterpart of Fuji-yama, the Holy Mountain of Japan, and, like it, is a perfect volcanic peak, standing alone in its colossal might, and sweeping upwards from the plain in unbroken lines of faultless beauty, to a height of 14,444 feet.  There are few days in the year when this glorious mountain is to be seen without its snowy robes, or at least a snow crown.  Hence the name by which it is known to the Indians--the White Pure Mountain.</p><P>As a volcano, it has long lain dormant; but there are boiling sulphureous springs within a few feet of the summit crater, while jets of steam and sulphur-fumes rise from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:many a fissure, and have proved the salvation of rash mountaineers who have been storm-stayed and benighted on the freezing summit.  Below these symptoms of hidden fire, and the cone of loose volcanic ash, lie ice-fields and living glaciers.</p><P>Three distinct glaciers are accessible, from one of which, on the eastern slope of the mountain, flows a stream known as Mud Creek, which shortly disappears in the earth; and though the thirsty traveller is tantalised by the murmur of snow-fed waters gurgling beneath and between the loose rocks, he may march right round the cone--a circuit of 100 miles--without finding a spring or crossing a stream.</p><P>Whether that glacier stream really deserves such a name as Mud Creek, I cannot fathom; but in its next appearance it burst from the ground in a great volume of water, clear as crystal and cold as ice, and rushes seaward at the rate of twenty miles an hour, between the rocky walls of a deep canyon.  In this second stage of its existence it is known as the M`Leod river, or--sometimes far more poetically--the M`Cloud,<ANCHOR ID="n11-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: --a worthy name for the stream, which, like its godmother, is a true</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-11">Child of a cloud.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Daughter of earth and water,<LB> And nursling of the skies."<LB></HI>
127.sgm:</p><P>It is a stream abounding in trout and salmon, the former sometimes weighing as much as three pounds.  A red-spotted trout, known as "Dolly Varden," which is found only in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:glacial streams, is also abundant, and runs from one to twelve pounds.  I hear sportsmen speaking of this region as of a most happy hunting-ground.  Deer are abundant; so are elk and antelope; also cinnamon, brown, and black bears, but no grizzlies.  The absence of the latter does not appear to be a matter of deep regret, as they are ugly customers.  Mountain quail and Californian grouse abound; and to the north of Mount Shasta, in Oregon, mountain sheep are found, and an occasional puma, or Californian lion; also wild-cats and lynx.</p><P>There are two men now in the valley who were shooting near Mount Shasta last year, and are especially enthusiastic on the subject of stalking mountain sheep,<ANCHOR ID="n11-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: which they describe as most graceful, active creatures, about double the size of an average domestic sheep, and clothed in a greatcoat of straight, glossy, dark-grey hair, covering the under coating of soft, fleecy, white wool.  In general form they resemble strongly built, shapely deer, having only the head and horns of sheep.  Both the ewe and the ram have horns--the former of modest dimensions, the latter very large and handsome, increasing in size to the age of eight years.  A good head may measure two and a half feet across the horns, each of which might measure three feet, following the grand simple curve, and about sixteen inches in circumference at the base.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-12"><HI REND="italics">Caprovis Canadensis</HI>
127.sgm:<P>These Big-horns, as they are called, are brave, fearless creatures, wonderfully agile and sure-footed.  They contrive to scale the smoothest glacier-polished granite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:domes (where an experienced cragsman can scarcely make his way), by means of a series of little stiff skips.  They never miss their footing, never slip or slide, nature having furnished them with a very elastic hoof, furnished at the back with a soft springy pad, acting in some measure like the sucker-foot which enables flies to walk on glass.</p><P>Thus provided, the mountain sheep roam in glad freedom among inaccessible crags, where the frozen snow lies chill on the high wind-swept ranges, from ten to thirteen thousand feet above the sea-level; and here the mountain lambs begin their hardy lives in grim cradles of rock and snow, far above the eyries of the mountain eagles.  The mother ewe selects a spot somewhat sheltered from the chilling winds, but commanding such an outlook as to guard against possible surprise; and here she scrapes herself a bed of crumbling granite, and gives birth to her lamb, which soon grows strong and fearless, and lives a joyous life in the high pastures, starred with daisies and blue gentians.</p><P>Sheep-stalking in these regions is apparently its own reward--a pleasure quite apart from the bloodthirsty or covetous instinct of shooting a creature because it is rare, or wild, or beautiful.  But whether animate or inanimate nature be the attraction, every one who has visited that district speaks of it with rapture as a region of beauty and delight.  The mountain rises from a magnificent belt of forest, which clothes its slopes to a height of about 10,000 feet, where it meets the snow-line.  Travellers ascending <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the mountain, spend at least one night camping in the upper forest.  They say the view from the summit is magnificent, taking in a radius of nearly 500 miles--a circle including the whole of Northern California, from the Coast Range to the Sierras, and also a considerable part of Oregon.</p><P>The region abounds in mineral springs, differing chiefly in their degrees of unsavouriness.  Some are strongly effervescent, and contain iron, salts, and soda.  People who are not intent on climbing the mountain to obtain a widely extended view, generally prefer the autumn, when the atmosphere is invariably clouded by smoke of burning grass or forest.  They tell me it is easy of access, and that there are very comfortable hotels.  So I think some day I shall make tracks for Mount Shasta, which from all accounts must, I think, unquestionably be the loveliest mountain in California.</p><P>It forms a grand junction for the Sierras and the Coast Range, which there combine, and merge in one great ridge known as the Cascade Range, which trends northward through Oregon and Washington, gradually losing level, till it sinks into comparatively low spurs.  It is a purely igneous region, and from Mount Shasta right up to Pugin Sound, a series of great volcanic cones tower many thousand feet above the basaltic beds from which they spring.  In short, this crest of the Sierras was a vast volcanic chain, of whose former activity proof still remains in the immense area covered with lava--an area which geologists estimate at 20,000 square miles.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Respecting the work of fire and frost in these regions, Mr Whitney states that, although the central mass of the Sierra Nevada consists chiefly of granite, "it is flanked on both sides by metamorphic slates, and capped irregularly by vast masses of basaltic and other kinds of lava, with heavy beds of ashes and breccia, bearing witness to a former prodigious activity of the subterranean volcanic forces, now dormant."  The existence of a number of hot springs, and an occasional earthquake, alone survive to tell of the slumbering fires.  I am told that in 1872 so violent an earthquake shock was experienced here, that it shook the whole valley--all the clocks stopped, and it is said that even the mighty El Capitan rocked like a cradle.</p><P>The largest amount of volcanic material is found to the north, where it covers the whole of the range, forming one vast plateau, crowned with many cones, with clearly defined craters.  Mr Whitney recommends the summit of Mount Hoffmann as an excellent point whence to obtain a good view of the almost inaccessible volcanic region lying between the Tuolumne river and the Sonora trail, where great lava-beds, in some places 700 feet thick, rest on the granite at an elevation of 3000 feet above the valley, the dark lava-flow showing conspicuously in contrast with the dazzingly white granitic masses.</p><P>One of the most remarkable mountains in that district has been named Tower Peak.  It rises in steps like a series of truncated pyramids piled one above the other; and Whitney declares it to be one of the grandest mountain-masses in California.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>He recommends the ascent of Mount Dana as being very easy, and affording an admirable bird's-eye view of the principal geological features of the Sierras.  Mount Dana itself is a mass of slate, part of which lies in bands of bright green and reddish-brown, forming a mass of rich colour pleasant to the eye, which has been wearied by the continuous panorama of cold grey or white granite.  This belt of metamorphic rock extends a long way to the north, giving a rounded outline to the summits (some of which are upwards of 13,000 feet in height) in striking contrast with the jagged peaks which chiefly distinguish the granite belt.</p><P>The latter gradually widens as it passes through Southern California, where it has a breadth of about forty miles.  This is the highest part of the Sierras, some of its peaks being about 15,000 feet in height.  Here lie the chief traces of the Frost King, in highly polished granite slabs, and the moraines deposited in all the valleys.  On Mount Dana, also, the traces of ancient glaciers are distinctly visible at a height of 12,000 feet; and, in the gap south of the summit, there is evidence of a mass of ice fully 800 feet thick having lodged for many a long year--a chilling guest!</p><P>While each gorge and canyon had its own special ice-stream, a giant glacier appears to have passed by Mount Dana, and filled the great Tuolumne valley to a depth of fully 1000 feet--that is to say, 500 feet higher than the pass which lies between the Tuolumne river and the Tenaya lake.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>By this pass the ice-lake overflowed into the Tenaya valley, where the ridges are so worn and polished by its action, that they afford slippery footing, and horses and men slide pitifully as they pick their way over the broad smooth slabs of rounded granite.  At the head of Lake Tenaya there is a conical knob of granite 800 feet high, so smoothly polished by glaciers, that not a blade of grass finds a crevice in which to nestle.</p><P>While the overflow thus left its mark for all time in the Tenaya, the great glacier passed on its slow, silent way down the Tuolumne valley--an ice-river 1000 feet deep, and a mile and a half in width.  Everywhere the rocks bear witness to its passage.  They are grooved, and scratched, and scored by the grinding of the gravel and the rocks, crushed beneath that ponderous weight; while at other points, long parallel lines of <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
127.sgm: lie just where the melting of their ice-carriage left them.</p><P>Professor Whitney says that this region of the Upper Tuolumne is one of the finest in the State for the study of traces of the ancient glacial system of the Sierra Nevada.</p><P>He tells how, at that part of the valley called Grand Canyon, the whole surface of the rocks, for a distance of about eighteen miles, is all glacier-polished.  Just at the head of the canyon he found an isolated granite knob, rising to the height of about 800 feet above the river, beautifully polished to its very summit; and on climbing this, he obtained a wonderful view of the valley.  Below him lay outspread smooth, glittering surfaces of granite, telling of a far-distant past; while above the steep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:pine-clothed slopes lay the great dazzling snow-fields, crowned by the Unicorn Peak and a multitude of nameless spires.</p><P>Farther up the valley he had found a granite belt, worn into many knobs, some of them about 100 feet in height, and separated by great grooves and channels worn by ice.  But in general, he is chiefly struck by seeing how little effect the ice has had in shaping the land.  The rough-hewing has been the work of fire and other agents, while frost has done its part chiefly in rounding and polishing the pre-existing forms.</p><P>Descending the Tuolumne canyon till he reached the beautiful Hetch Hetchy valley, he there found clear proof that the great glacier had passed through it, the rocks being all ice-grooved to a height of 800 feet above the river, while a moraine was observed fully 400 feet higher.</p><P>This has a special interest, from the fact that, in the Great Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Valley, no trace of such glacial action has been found.  Apparently the magnificent amphitheatre of high mountains which formed the cradle of the Tuolumne glacier favoured the formation of so vast a body of ice, that it descended far below the line of perpetual snow ere it melted away.</p><P>On the other hand, the plateau whence springs the Merced river did not allow of the formation of a glacier sufficiently massive to reach the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Valley, so that its course can only be traced to the Little Yo&macr;-semite&acute; above the Nevada Falls, and to the spur at the head of the valley.  There it seems to have melted away; and only the quaintly perched blocks, poised on the rounded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:granite slabs, tell of the chill ice-river that flowed thus far and perished.</p><P>I fear these geological details may sound to you very dry, but to any one on the spot they are intensely interesting.  I sometimes sit for hours on some high point overlooking the distant ranges, trying to picture the scene in remotest ages, when the Fire King was forging these mighty ribs of the earth, or when the Frost Giants held it frozen in their icy grasp.</p><P>With respect to geological periods, as in most other matters, I am inclined to think that "there is no time like the present"!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>HOME LETTERS--CALIFORNIAN POSTS TWENTY YEARS AGO--HAPPY DAYS IN THE VALLEY--THE NOBLE SAVAGE--CAMPERS--RATTLESNAKES--NATIONAL PARKS.</p><P><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
127.sgm: 24, 1878.</p><P>DEAREST NELL,--At long last my huge budget of letters, which have been for months accumulating in Honolulu, has reached me--sixty in all--most of them posted from Fiji or Australia.  I wonder if you actually realise that since the day I left Nasova,<ANCHOR ID="n12-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: nine months ago, not one letter of any sort or kind had reached me!  If so, you can perhaps understand the hungry welcome with which I hailed the monster packet.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-11">Government House, Fiji.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Yet even now, this is evidently only an instalment, as the latest home letter bears date Jan. 2d; so I suppose you had then tried some other address.  I have now written to Auckland and Sydney, in case others may be lying there.</p><P>Meanwhile, as there is a good deal of reading in sixty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:long foreign letters, I have been well supplied for once.  The parcel came by the evening coach, and I read till I could see no more--my eyes ached so.  So I began again at dawn, and then took them with me to a lovely nook by the river, where I sat undisturbed the whole day, reading them over and over, and even now have not half digested them.  I tried to read systematically (as some old gentlemen in India read the `Times,' beginning with the oldest, and taking one a-day till the next mail comes in!), so I filed each lot of letters, and read them in order; it seemed almost like having a series of talks.  Now, however, I look forward to receiving letters direct from England a very few days hence.</p><P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
127.sgm: 1, 1878.</p><P>To-day's post brought me the first letter I have received direct from you.  It did seem strangely delightful to receive one <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
127.sgm: a month old.  I carried it off to read in the luxurious solitude of my favourite "Forest Sanctuary"--an enchanting nook, where several huge grey boulders, moss-grown and fringed with ferns, lie in a little grassy glade, encircled by groups of solemn pines, and with an undergrowth of most fragrant yellow azaleas, dear to the busy buzzing bees, whose droning blends with the murmur of unseen waters, in "sweet and slumbrous melody,"--most soothing and captivating.  Half the charm of this lovely sanctuary lies in the selfish delight of calling it my own.  I doubt if any one else in the valley has discovered it; indeed it is but one of ten thousand corners, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:equally sheltered and lovely, which few travellers allow themselves time to enjoy; and the inhabitants of the valley are all absorbed in the care of these eager sight-seers--only anxious to enable them to rush from one mountain-top to another with the requisite speed--so no one questions my right as sole proprietor of this fairy dell.</p><P>Of course, with coaches running regularly to the valley, the daily mail comes and goes, if not like clockwork, still sufficiently so for all practical purposes; and the sorting of the bag is a momentary interest, when every one crowds round to see what may fall to their lot in the distribution.</p><P>This morning, while waiting for the coach, an old Californian miner gave me a vivid description of the postal service as he remembered it twenty years ago; not in these--then undiscovered--mountain regions, but on the great plains, where the Pacific railroad now runs so smoothly.</p><P>In those days a heavily laden waggon starting from the eastern States took six months to cross the great continent, and emigrants travelled in large companies for security; so it was reckoned a tall feat when a party of keen, hard-riding, fearless men, resolved to carry letters from the shores of the Atlantic to those of the Pacific in fourteen days, and carried out their promise in the teeth of all difficulties.  A company was formed, known as the Central Overland California and Pike's Peak Express.  Almost the entire distance from ocean to ocean was divided into runs of sixty miles each, and at all such points rude log-huts were erected as stations for the Pony Express.  Here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the most experienced scouts and trappers--men noted for their horsemanship and courage--were placed in charge of strong swift ponies, selected, like their riders, for their powers of endurance and general hardiness.  They were a cross between the stout sure-footed Indian pony and the swift American horse.</p><P>Perilous lives these men led, in constant danger of attack by highway robbers or wild Indians; but the wages paid by the Company were sufficient to secure a staff of determined men, hard as nails, and accustomed to face danger and death without shrinking.  Twelve hundred dollars, equal to &pound;240, was the monthly wage of an Express rider.</p><P>Of course under such circumstances postage was high--the charge for a quarter-ounce letter being five dollars in gold, equal to one sovereign.  The total weight carried was ten pounds.  As a commercial speculation the experiment proved a failure; and after running steadily for two years, the Express Company was found to have lost 200,000 dollars, at which period it collapsed, leaving no trace of its existence save a few ruinous log-huts.  The telegraph being then completed, its continuance was no longer deemed necessary.</p><P>On the east, the railway was already constructed as far as St Joseph, which consequently was the first pony-station on the New York side.  The vast expanse of prairie and mountain lying between St Joseph and San Francisco had to be traversed in 240 hours, which was reckoned "good time,"--and no mistake about it, the distance being fully 2000 miles.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Once a-week a messenger started from either shore of the great continent.  Spurring his steed to its utmost capacity, he galloped over hill and dale for sixty miles at a stretch, till he reached his destination, where the next Express man was waiting, ready to start without the delay of one moment, the incomer not waiting even to dismount, but tossing the precious letter-bag to its next guardian.  Then man and beast enjoyed a well-earned rest, till the arrival of the messenger from the other direction, when they started on the return journey.</p><P>So marvellously punctual was the mail service, that the last man generally delivered up his charge within a few moments of the time fixed, notwithstanding all the troublous chances it might have encountered on its journey of 2000 miles of what might truly be called a "great, lonely land."</p><P>The general post, with heavier bags, reached California <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
127.sgm: the Isthmus of Panama--to which point steamers ran twice a-month from New York and San Francisco.  From one city to the other was a whole month's journey.  The arrival of the eastern mail was the signal for wild excitement in San Francisco.  Merchants eager for their business letters, and miners longing for a word from home, rushed to the post-office the moment the gun was fired to announce that the steamer was in harbour, each eager to take up a position as near as possible to the post-office window.  In a few moments a line was formed, perhaps literally half a mile long, of anxious letter-seekers, and late arrivals knew that hours might elapse before they could hope to get near the window.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Then a sort of auction commenced, and men who had rushed in and secured good places in the front of the line (often without the smallest expectation of a letter, but simply as a speculation) sold their position to the highest bidder.  &pound;5, &pound;10, &pound;20 were sometimes paid down by eager men, flush of gold, rather than wait five or six hours for the letters they longed for, but which, too often, were expected in vain; and grievous was the disappointment with which at last they turned away.  Some were even so anxious that they took up a post at the window hours before the steamer arrived--even waiting through the night--and after all, were compelled to abandon their position and go in search of needful food.  Perhaps at that very moment the firing of the mail-gun called them back, to find a long line rapidly forming, at the end of which they had to take their places, with the prospect of again waiting for hours.</p><P>What a different scene from the San Francisco of to-day--the busy, bustling, vast city, with its intricate postal service, and daily mountains of mail-bags, brought from, and despatched to, all corners of the earth by railways, steamers, and sailing ships!</p><P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
127.sgm: 2 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>Do you remember my telling you of a cosy little cottage which forms one of the "suburbs" of this hotel?  It has been tenanted nearly all the summer by two pleasant sisters with very nice children.  They live near San Francisco, and come here almost every year; and being both <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:splendid horsewomen, have explored every accessible point for miles round.  A young half-Spanish guide is specially devoted to their service, and escorts them on the most perilous rides.</p><P>We very soon became great friends, though my work generally keeps me in or very near the valley.  But on their days of rest, they condescend to pleasant idling with me on lower levels.</p><P>I have also had some delightful expeditions with the sister of one of the great bankers of San Francisco, who, with her family has been staying here for some time.  One morning we started at break of day, and walked to the Mirror Lake before sunrise,--a walk at all times exquisite, but doubly so now that the meadows are so richly strewn with flowers of every hue.</p><P>The valley affords a considerable variety of soil.  In some parts it seems entirely composed of powdered granite bearing a scanty crop of low grass; while in other places there are tracts of deep sand, where the common bracken grows abundantly and rankly.  A considerable portion of the meadows lies on a rich peaty soil, where coarse grasses and sedges luxuriate.  Then, again, on our morning walk we passed by a small farm-steading, and corn-fields ready for the harvest,--a pleasant site for a home.  Happily, however, little cultivation is allowed on this grand National Park.</p><P>Indeed there is a corner of danger lest, in the praise-worthy determination to preserve the valley from all ruthless "improvers," and leave it wholly to nature, it may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:become an unmanageable wilderness.  So long as the Indians had it to themselves, their frequent fires kept down the underwood, which is now growing up everywhere in such dense thickets, that soon all the finest views will be altogether hidden, and a regiment of wood-cutters will be required to clear them.  Already many beautiful views which enchanted me in the early spring are quite lost, since the scrub has come into leaf; and of course every year will increase this evil.</p><P>We had made arrangements to have our food and sketching-gear carried to the lake by a carriage which brought a party of poor hurried tourists to see the sunrise, waken the echoes, and then instantly depart, leaving us to spend a long day in that delightfully secluded spot.  We kindled a camp-fire, at which my companions cooked first a capital breakfast, and then an equally excellent luncheon, with strawberries and cream for dessert, while I secured a drawing of the little willow-fringed lake in its deep granite setting.</p><P>The strawberries and cream were provided by a gentle, graceful girl, by name Ida Howard, a true child of the valley, the lady of this little rock-girt lake, on the brink of which her father has built his nest, rears his nestlings, and lets boats to tourists.  The girl always attracts me as a pleasant type of a Californian maiden, energetic and unselfish--relieving her mother of most household cares, devoted to a troop of younger brothers and sisters, coaxing them to prepare their school tasks, feeding them, starting them in time, mending their clothes, caring for the horses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:and cattle, and withal, finding time to carry on her own studies unaided, and intensely interested in working at Euclid and Algebra!  These still waters run deep!</p><P>In the afternoon we explored the narrow pine-clad Tenaya Canyon, till we came to a muddy pool, glorified by the golden cups of yellow water-lilies.  It lies at the base of Cloud's Rest, which sweeps upward from this forest-belt in 6000 feet of smooth granite slabs, glacier-polished, and overlying one another as if artificially built.</p><P>Returning, we lingered beside the lakelet till the purple shades of evening had enfolded the base of the great hills, while (towering perpendicularly above us) the vertical face of the Split Dome, and the more distant summit of Cloud's Rest, glowed crimson in the red fire of the setting sun; and the lonely pool which had so faithfully mirrored its rising glory, still gave back flush for flush, and shade for shade, like a rare friend, sympathetic in every changing mood.</p><P>Then in the clear beautiful twilight we turned our faces westward, and made our way home through thickets of lupines, and azaleas, and tall fern--crossing rocky streams, and passing by groups of Indian bark-huts, whose inmates were roasting strips of bear's flesh at their camp-fires.</p><P>We passed by another camp as well, where a party from San Francisco are spending their vacation in glorious gipsy freedom, their tents pitched beneath the shelter of some grand old pines.  They, too, were busily preparing their supper, having just returned from their various expeditions.  One had been fishing, and brought back a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:basket full of lovely trout; another was a geologist; a third an artist.  Each had found a paradise after his own heart.</p><P>Presently we too reached our haven of rest, and had our full share of trout, just caught by the Indians.</p><P>We voted this day such a success, that we determined on a similar expedition in the opposite direction; and having got an old man with a cart to carry our cooking and sketching materials to a given point, we started for the base of the great El Capitan, that massive crag, upwards of 3000 feet in height, of which I told you on the day we arrived here.  Only by walking along the base of such a crag as this, or the Sentinel, can you begin to realise its stupendous bulk.  You see it just in front of you, and think you will soon walk past it, but you go on and on, and scarcely seem to change your own position.  Then you begin to understand that El Capitan is a rock-wall nearly two miles long, and three-quarters of a mile high,--a vast square-cut block like polished ivory.</p><P>From a little distance you suppose this rock-face to be vertical, but on a closer approach you perceive that along the summit runs a ledge 500 feet thick, and projecting 100 feet,--proving how, in that awful internal landslip which formed the valley, the huge granite mass must have been rent, and slidden down from beneath this ledge.</p><P>You also gain an impression of size by attempting to scale the piles of tumbled fragments which lie heaped along its base.  You think they are insignificant slopes at the foot of the crag, but a few minutes of hard and exhausting climbing among those huge irregular blocks of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:rugged rock soon undeceives you.  You find, too, that what appeared to be mere shrubs growing among the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
127.sgm: are actually stately oaks and ilex,<ANCHOR ID="n12-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: here called live oak; and that the pines, which seemed no bigger than average Scotch spruces, are pitch-pines and Douglas spruces, fully 200 feet in height.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-12"><HI REND="italics">Quercus vaccinifolia, Q. chrysolepis</HI>
127.sgm:<P>And oh! how delicious is the dewy steam rising from the resinous needles of pines, and firs, and cedars, in the warm morning rays, and the aromatic scent of the California laurel,<ANCHOR ID="n12-13">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: with its glossy evergreen leaves!</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-13"><HI REND="italics">Tetranthera Californica</HI>
127.sgm:<P>We came to lovely reaches, where the river--no longer in flood, but flowing clear and transparent over a bed of glittering pebbles--winds in and out among groups of tall larches and pines, and where the sunlight trickles through the tremulous foliage of alders and willows which fringe its banks.  There are places, too, where the eddying flood has left a thick deposit of soft white sand, and where stranded timber and great roots now lie bleaching in the sun.</p><P>We passed on through rank green grasses, so thickly enamelled with flowers, that the whole seemed as a misty, sunlit cloud of blossom.  In the midst of these Elysian fields, we came suddenly on a small Indian camp--a party so newly arrived from Mono Lake that they had not even built the accustomed bark-huts, and a few boughs formed their only shelter.  A wild-faced squaw looked up, startled by our approach; but an offering of sugar-plums and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:apples to her children, and small coin to herself, had a soothing influence, and she gave me a lump of deer's fat with which to grease my boots--a very useful offering.  On a tree beside her hung a wicker ark, containing a solemn, black-haired imp, really rather a pretty specimen of papoose, its head protected by the usual sunshade.</p><P>I am sorry to be obliged to confess that whatever dignity the American Indians may have possessed before they became familiar with their white brethren, those I have seen do not retain one vestige of the noble savage.  Indeed, dirt and bad smells are the prominent characteristics of every party of Indians I have yet met.  As to the graceful and romantic Indian maids of poetic novelists, I have not seen a girl with the smallest pretension to good looks; but even did such exist, "What," as some one remarked, "is beauty without soap?"  And soap is a <HI REND="italics">cosme&acute;tique</HI>
127.sgm: unknown to these grimy faces.</p><P>Occasionally--but very rarely--it may occur to an Indian to wash his or her face and hands in the nearest stream, but nothing further in the way of bathing is ever dreamt of; and as a general rule, a woman's already filthy dress, or a man's leggings, form a convenient towel on which to rub, unwashed, the dirtiest hands that ever were seen--hands that have probably been recently plunged in the entrails of some newly killed animal, in search of dainty morsels to be swallowed raw, (not that this quest involves much selection, for no sort of offal comes amiss to an Indian palate!)</p><P>In their general antipathy to personal ablutions, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Utes resemble a certain Scottish bailie, who combated a proposed expenditure on baths and wash-houses for the poor of a great northern city, and crowned his own testimony as to their superfluity by the emphatic statement--"I thank God that water has not touched my body these thirty years!"  The Utes, however, have devised a primitive form of Turkish bath, which they find very efficacious in sickness.  They construct a skeleton framework of wooden poles, which they cover with fur robes and blankets to prevent the escape of hot vapour.  In the centre of this <HI REND="italics">impromptu</HI>
127.sgm: tent they dig a hole in the ground a couple of feet in depth, and fill it with hot stones roasted in a neighbouring fire.  A seat is arranged above this pit, on which the patient takes his place, and pours a bucket of cold water upon the hot stones.  The steam thus generated acts as a beneficial vapour-bath.</p><P>As regards the washing of clothes, such a practice is said to be wholly unknown.  Even the man who has acquired a civilised shirt never dreams of renewing its beauty by soap and water.  By only wearing it on high days and holidays, he contrives to make it last many years; but in its latter days it can scarcely be considered a desirable garment!  No dowager's old lace can compare with it for richness of tone.  It is <HI REND="italics">couleur Isabelle</HI>
127.sgm: with a vengeance!</p><P>Though I am assured that this personal uncleanliness is common to the whole race, it would of course be unfair to judge of American Indians in general by the specimens I have seen, all of whom belong to the Diggers and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Pahutes, two of the most miserable and degraded tribes.  To do so would be somewhat akin to evolving imaginary Austrians and Russians from a slight acquaintance with the poorest of the Irish peasantry!  Among the multitudinous tribes scattered over this vast continent, there are men of all sorts and sizes--true men and false, and dwarfs and giants; and their speech is as varied as are their customs, every tribe having a language of its own, known only to its members.</p><P>In truth, this curse of Babel would weigh heavily on the great Indian nation, were it not for a silent language of signs, which is used by all alike, and is the medium of communication between all Indians fo different tribes.  It is frequently used even in family parties, or while on the march, or on hunting expeditions, or at other times when silence is deemed desirable.  To the initiated it is as clear and rapid a means of communication as any in use in our deaf and dumb asylums--indeed more rapid, as certain signs are used to express whole phrases and symbolise ideas.  The whole body is enlisted, and by its twistings and turnings affords a much more varied dictionary than we can extract from our finger alphabet.  The few white men who have been admitted to terms of perfect intimacy with Indians, tell us that if a stranger could steal unawares near an Indian camp, he might well marvel at the occasional bursts of laughter, while not a human voice was to be heard; yet each individual gathered round the campfire is all the while drinking in some very interesting story, related by one of their number in the sign language.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>According to official estimates, the Indians of the United States, who two hundred years ago numbered upwards of 2,000,000, are now reduced to 300,000.  Even this comparatively small number forms a serious item in a country which treats them not as citizens, subject to the laws of the State, and under their protection, but as independent races.</p><P>No less than 180 distinct tribes are recognised as dwelling in the United States territory, without counting those of Alaska.  Many of these tribes are subdivided into a large number of branches.  Thus the Apaches of Arizona and New Mexico are divided into sixteen great families, varying in numbers from 100 to 2000.  In Minnesota and Wisconsin there are nineteen distinct families of Chippewas, numbering about 23,000.  The Cherokees and Chocktaws number respectively 17,000 and 16,000.</p><P>The Shoshones of Wyoming, Idaho, and Nevada are subdivided into twelve great families.  The Utes, who are found in Nevada, Colorado, Wyoming, and New Mexico, count no less than sixty-two tribal divisions.  Of these, thirty-one are known as Pai Utes, are distinguished by such simple little names as Timpa-shau-wagot-sits, Ichu-ar-rum-pats, Un-kapa-ru-kuiats, and so on.  Of the great warlike tribe of Sioux, twenty-four bands, numbering from 200 to 6000, roam over Wyoming, Dakota, and Montana.  By the way, I am told that "Sioux" is only an uncomplimentary nickname, abhorrent to these warlike Indians, whose true name is Dakotah.</p><P>Without going farther than the Eastern Sierras and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the Rocky Mountains, we find Assiniboins, Black Feet, Sansarks, Unkpapas, Yauktonaise, and Sissapapas (the last five being divisions of the great Dakotah nation), Piegans, Flat Heads, Blood Indians, Crees, &amp;c.; while a little to the north roam the Shoshones, Snakes, Bannacks, Gros Ventres, Peu d'Oreilles, and Nez Perce&acute;s; above all, the stalwart Crow Indians of the Yellowstone--and when you speak of the Yellowstone, you speak of a stream which has an independent course of 1300 miles ere its waters join those of the great Missouri.  So you can readily understand that the Mountain Crows and the River Crows can form two very distinct communities.  They are a race averaging considerably over six feet.  Six-feet-four or-five inches is nothing uncommon in this family of giants, who still wear buffalo-robes and curiously embroidered garments, and live in tall conical tents, covered with buffalo-skins neatly fastened together, and (so far as lies in their power) keep up the customs of their ancestors.</p><P>The said tall conical tents, or rather houses, are formed of a framework of fir poles, planted in a wide circle at the base, and meeting at the top, where an opening allows for the escape of smoke from the fire, which is always in the middle of the lodge.  The Crows keep their houses clean, and divide them into separate rooms by screens of wickerwork radiating from the fire to the outer wall.  They pack pretty close, however, as several whole families contrive to stow themselves away in one <HI REND="italics">tepee--i.e</HI>
127.sgm:., dwelling.</p><P>These circular houses are planted in one large circle, forming a perfect camp, within which the beasts are driven <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:at night.  The house of the chief is marked by a shield hung on a spear, stuck outside the door.  Sometimes the creature which the chief reverences as his <HI REND="italics">totem</HI>
127.sgm: or sacred beast, is represented on the shield, as on a knight's escutcheon; or, if it is a tamable being--such as an eagle, a hawk, or a jay--a living specimen is trained to perch thereon.</p><P>Every young "Crow," on arriving at man's estate, observes certain prolonged periods of vigil and fasting, and the first living creature of earth, air, or water on which his eyes rest during this spiritualised condition, is thenceforth recognised by him as the embodiment of his guardian spirit--the <HI REND="italics">totem</HI>
127.sgm: which he is bound to honour and protect to his life's end.<ANCHOR ID="n12-14">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-14">On <HI REND="italics">totem</HI>
127.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">etu</HI>
127.sgm:<P>One point in Crow etiquette which at once commends itself to the Celtic Highlander, as to all other faithful observers of the "Deisul," is the invariable custom of sending the calumet round the whole family circle in the correct sunwise course, just as a Briton naturally sends round the bottles after dinner.</p><P>The pipe is first presented to the chief, who blows a votive whiff north, sout, east, west, heavenward, and earthward; after which, he inhales one deep breath for his own comfort, and hands the pipe to the man on his left hand, who sends it round to the next, and so on till it has completed its circuit, always following the course of the sun.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Farther south, but still dwelling in the vast Sierras, are such tribes as the warlike Navajos and Apaches, who keep up a ceaseless guerilla warfare with the prospector and settlers in Arizona and Mexico, descending from their unknown strongholds, in the wildest mountain-ranges, to harry the rich cultivated lands, burning and massacring the pale-faces.</p><P>Very different from these (though also inhabiting the Sierras in Arizona and Mexico, on the tributaries of the great Colorado river) are the Moquis and Pueblo, and other semi-civilised tribes, whom some believe to be descendants of the once luxurious proud old Aztecs, and who are said still to watch day by day for the triumphant second advent of Montezuma.  In their poverty and debasement they still cherish some traditions of their ancestors,--they worship the rising sun, they reverently tend the sacred fire, which is kept ever burning in their villages; and, to some extent, the tradition of old serpent-worship is still embodied in the form of a living rattlesnake, which receives a certain amount of homage, not unmingled with dread.</p><P>I do not know whether these dirty Diggers and Pah-utes have any such distinctive customs.  The fact is, that they and their wigwams are so unfragrant that none of us care to make any attempt to study them at close quarters, though we all admit the scenic value of their bark-huts and the curling film of blue smoke, to give a point of interest to the landscape.</p><P>We lighted our own camp-fire in a sheltered nook of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:flowery meadow, and spent hours watching the prismatic lights encircling the Pohono Falls with a jewelled girdle like myriads of opals.  We had scrambled far up the trail when first we caught a glimpse of this vision of beauty; then, as the sun sank behind us, and the rainbow floated upward out of our sight, we rapidly descended the trail--now lying in deep shade--and so kept it in sight till our shadow had crept up the opposite crags, and the last gleams of radiant colour rose to heaven on the tremulous spray-cloud, and so vanished from our sight.</p><P>It was a dream of ethereal loveliness--an embodied hymn of praise.</p><P>Then came the amber light of sunset, and the fiery glow on the pale granite crags, while the shadows changed to a deep purple, and the tall pines wore a darker and more velvety green.</p><P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
127.sgm: 3 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>Very early this morning I wandered up the valley to see the last of a cheery camping-party, who have for some time made their home beneath a large group of trees, on a tiny natural meadow of greenest grass, beside the beautiful River of Mercy.</p><P>I found them breaking up camp preparatory to a start for higher levels.  It was a most picturesque scene.  The ladies and children were busily washing up the breakfast things, and packing the pots and pans, the kettles, knives and forks, in great panniers, as mule-burdens; while the gentlemen were taking down the tents, and packing them in the smallest possible compass.  Bales of blankets and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:pillows were all the bedding required, and sundry necessary changes of raiment stowed away in light valises, all of which were shortly piled on the long-suffering mules, and tied on with long cords, till it became matter for wonder how any animals could possibly climb steep trails bearing such bulky burdens.  But here, as elsewhere, mules are noted for their strength and endurance, and are far more serviceable for mountain work than horses.  You cannot buy a good pack-mule under <HI REND="italics">&pound;</HI>
127.sgm: 30 (150 dollars), whereas a very fair pack-pony may be worth a third of that price.</p><P>The mules are strong, sinewy little beasts, wonderfully sagacious as a rule, though some are obstinately stupid, and the drivers of a mule-train find that their dumb friends have individual characteristics as strongly marked as any human being, and many a troublesome hour they have in persuading and guiding them in the right way.  The persuasion is all of the gentlest and kindest sort, for these mountain men are very good indeed to their beasts, though I am told that they find a safety-valve for mental irritation in the tallest swearing of which the Anglo-Saxon tongue is capable.</p><P>This morning, and indeed every morning, some of the mules that had fared sumptuously on succulent meadow-grasses, objected strongly (and not without good reason) to the severe course of compression they were compelled to undergo, while bulky packs were being securely roped on their unwilling backs by the united efforts of two strong men--one on each side--with one foot firmly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:planted against the poor brute's ribs, while they hauled at the ropes with might and main.</p><P>First of all, the <HI REND="italics">aparejos</HI>
127.sgm: (a stuffed cover which takes the place of the old-fashioned wooden pack-saddles) had to be girthed on ( <HI REND="italics">sinch</HI>
127.sgm: is the word for girth here), during which process the mules fidgeted, and fretted, and twisted in dire discomfort; but when it came to the roping, they kicked with such right good will, that two of them contrived to kick themselves free of their burdens, and indulged in a comfortable and derisive roll on the grass, while the luckless packers collected their scattered goods (luckily, experience had taught them to keep at a safe distance from what is here known as "the business end" of a mule--namely, its heels; also, to possess no crockery, only tin); then, with exemplary patience, they recommenced their somewhat dangerous task.</p><P>At last everything was safely packed, and the procession started.</p><P>The last smouldering embers of the camp-fire were stamped out, the riding-horses were standing beneath the trees, all ready saddled and bridled, and in another minute the riders were up and away, cantering cheering along the river-bank, till they vanished among the tall cedars.  Later in the day I watched them slowly ascending a zigzag trail on a distant hillside; they moved in single file, a long line of dark atoms, suggesting a procession of ants.  And tonight I saw a faint glimmer of light in a far-away pine-forest, and I knew that there the little tents were pitched, and that pleasant voices were singing in chorus, as they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:gathered round the bright log-fire.  It reminded me of our happy camp-life in the glorious Himalayas, and made me more than half wish that I had joined these gipsies of the Sierras!  If only there were fewer rattlesnakes!</p><P>I have not told you much about these, though they are an ever-present reality, and we need to tread carefully, lest what appears to be only a fallen stick should prove a deadly foe.  Sometimes, as I sit alone sketching, I hear a slight rustle like that of a withered leaf.  It may prove to be only an innocent mouse, but sometimes it is the rattle of the hateful snake, in whose favour I must say, that he invariably tries to glide away as fast as he can, the moment he sees his human fellow-creature.</p><P>Sometimes I arrest his flight by throwing at him a small cone or bit of gravel, taking good care never to get too near--that is to say, within springing distance.  The snakes I see are generally about a yard in length, so they could spring about six feet.  Allow eight feet for safety, and then flick the gravel.  The snake instantly stops, curls himself up tight, and prepares for action, offensive and defensive.  Rearing his ugly flat head to about a foot from the ground, he slowly moves it to and fro, keenly watching the movements of the enemy; and thus he remains on guard till the foe passes on her way--at least <HI REND="italics">this</HI>
127.sgm: foe does so, for I confess that a certain latent fear combines with my natural antipathy for killing any creature larger than a cockroach, which last is a work of necessity and self-defence.  So no rattlesnake has had to wear mourning for any relation slain by me.  Mr David, however, killed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:one, and deprived it of its jacket and its rattle, which now hangs outside my window--not a very fragrant adornment!  I do think the snakes get the worst of it, for I cannot hear that any one has ever been bitten in this neighbourhood, whereas few days pass without several being killed by parties out with the guides, who bring back their rattles as trophies.  The rattle varies from one, to two and a half inches in length, by half an inch wide.  It consists of several semi-transparent plates, like bits of gristle, one of which is added every year, so that a patriarchal snake may have ten or twelve links.</p><P>I cannot understand why there should be so many more here than in the Rocky Mountains, where one observant sportsman tells me that he has never seen any.  And another, who lived in the mountains for eighteen months, only saw one, which had wriggled itself up to a height of 10,000 feet.</p><P>I am sure that you now quite sympathise with me in considering the rattlesnakes a drawback to camping-out, though people who come from the plains say that those we have here, are too few to be worth considering!</p><P>I am told that it is really a safeguard to lay a rough horsehair-rope on the grass right round your tent, as the rough ends of the hair are unpleasant to the snake, which turns aside to avoid gliding over it.  The precaution is sufficiently simple to be worth trying.</p><P>Of course we could not have such a Paradise without a serpent; and that it is a true garden of delight, is beyond question.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>It really is a comfort to know that no selfish individuals will ever be able by any process of purchase or law of might, to appropriate any part of this grand valley to the exclusion of their neighbours, or as a means of extorting money at every turn.  Happily the United States Government (warned by the results of having allowed the Falls of Niagara to become private proverty) determined that certain districts, discovered in various parts of the States, and noted for their exceeding beauty, should, by Act of Congress, be appropriated for evermore "for public use, resort, and recreation, and be inalienable for all time."</p><P>Of the districts thus set apart, the Mariposa Big-Tree Grove and the Yo&macr;semite&acute; Valley were voted by the Central Government as a gift to the State of California--a gift which was formally accepted by the State Congress, with conditions for the perpetual preservation of these unrivalled wonders of nature in their virgin beauty.  So the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; National Park is the heritage of the people, who, one and all, are at liberty to pitch their camp here, and enjoy themselves to their hearts' content, provided they abstain from doing any manner of damage to tree or rock.</p><P>Everything in America is done on a large scale.  It is a great country, and so it requires great parks.  These are, consequently, marked out with a good sweeping hand.  The San Luis Park covers 18,000 square miles; the North Park, in Colorado, has an area of 2000 square miles; the Middle Park, likewise in Colorado, covers 3000 square miles; and even little Estes Park is twelve miles in length!</p><P>The same wise provision has reserved the whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:marvellous volcanic district of the Upper Yellowstone in the Rocky Mountains, forming a national park in the north-western part of Wyoming as large as the whole of Yorkshire.</p><P>This Yellowstone Park is about sixty-five miles in length by fifty-five in width; consequently it has an area of 3575 square miles--a region of vast pine-forests, interspersed with hundreds of dormant volcanic cones and craters, and thousands of boiling springs and fountains of infinitely varied colour and chemical quality.</p><P>It has been estimated that "the Park" contains fully 5000 hot springs, of which about fifty are active geysers, throwing up fountains of varying height, some exceeding 200 feet.  All these deposit various substances in endless variety.</p><P>Within the limits of this mighty Park lie the sources of five great rivers--namely, the Yellowstone, Madison, and Gardiner rivers, which, uniting with others, and receiving new names in the course of their long journey, eventually flow into the Gulf of Mexico; while the Green River (which is a branch of the Colorado) and the Snake River (source of the Columbia River) flow to the Gulf of California.</p><P>The Yellowstone River flows right through a lake of the same name, which covers an area of 300 square miles, and lies at an altitude of 7788 feet above the sea.  The river descends thence with two falls, which, though only 140 and 360 feet in depth, are truly magnificent.  It then rushes downward through the Grand Canyon, and for a distance of twenty miles flows through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:a ravine of barely 500 feet in width, and between rock-walls of about 1000 feet in perpendicular height!</p><P>Here mountains of every conceivable grotesque form and strange colour are thrown together in indescribable confusion: huge buttresses, columns, cones of scori&aelig; wildly irregular crags, sometimes massed, sometimes towering alone, occasionally assuming strangely symmetrical form, suggestive of mighty fortifications; weird, burnt, crumbling hills, traversed by awful chasms and dark gloomy canyons--some pink, some grey or black, others of a fiery red or yellow, but all bare and barren,--only a few cacti, or stunted juniper, contriving to exist in sheltered crevices, or some kindly coarse grasses, which clothe the flat summits.</p><P>After passing through many miles of this strange country by tracks winding along tortuous valleys, and crossing deep ravines and great mountain-ridges, you come to a district where the hillsides are terraced with series of the loveliest natural baths, formed by the deposit of silica and kindred substances, greatly resembling those we visited in the north of New Zealand, where we revelled in cool baths at the level of the lake, and then, as we rose from one terrace to another, found a succession of exquisite pools, varying in depth and increasing in temperature as we neared the beautiful geyser at the summit.</p><P>In New Zealand that marvellous region is jealously guarded by the Maories, but this Wonderland of the Yellowstone is the property of every American; and though the Indians may roam here as of yore, it will doubtless ere long become the great sanitarium of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Northern Continent--a health-giving region, reserved by a wise Government for the good of all its people.</p><P>Yo&macr;-semite&acute; also claims to be health-giving, not by reason of medicinal waters, but of the purest, most exhilarating atmosphere, and every condition that heart can desire for the enjoyment of out-of-door life.  And well do the Californians know how to appreciate it!  Every year hundreds of busy business men allow themselves a spell of real gipsy life, so as not to waste one hour of their hardly earned holiday.  They make up congenial parties, either purely domestic or happily selected, and packing themselves and their camping-gear on riding and pack horses, with one or two light waggons to carry supplies, they start either for the valley or one of the Big-Tree groves, and, carefully avoiding all hotels, they pitch their tents wherever they feel inclined, in some verdant glade, where the horses may find sweet pasture, while the gipsies kindle their camp-fires, and catch trout in the clear stream, which is certain to flow somewhere near.</p><P>Many ladies with their children, start on these prolonged picnics, with or without a "help," fully prepared to rough it, making sport of all difficulties; and these gather up stores of health and strength to carry back to their homes in great cities.  Of course the climate favours such a life to an unusual degree, as for fully six months in the year camping-out is really enjoyable, and a wet day is quite a startling event.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>THE FOURTH OF JULY--BALLS IN THE SIERRAS--A PARTY OF EXPLORERS--HETCH-HETCHY VALLEY--SUMMIT OF CLOUD'S REST--SUNSET--BLACKBERRIES.</p><P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
127.sgm: 4 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>THIS has been a great day in the valley; it is the grand national holiday to celebrate the proclamation of American independence, and is observed throughout the States as a day of rejoicing.  Unluckily for his neighbours, the owner of the hot-baths considered that as music is noise, all noise must be musical; so he made dawn hideous by turning on a shrieking steam-whistle, and when even his own ears could no longer endure the horrid din, the entertainment was varied by discharges of dynamite, in order to awaken the echoes.</p><P>This hotel and the wooden shanties were adorned with flags, and stars and stripes floated in every direction.  The Indians and the guides ran pony-races, and a certain amount of feasting was managed.  Then the dining-room was cleared for a grand ball, which is now in full swing.  I sat for a long time in the verandah, watching the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:proceedings with great interest, and have rarely seen such precision anywhere, save in a dancing-school.</p><P>The good folk of the valley have already got up several balls for their own entertainment, so they are all in good practice.  They appoint the best dancer present to be floor-master for the evening; and it is his duty to regulate the order of the dances, and to take the lead in each.  This involves not only dancing as correctly as a dancing-master, but also calling out in a loud clear voice directions for each little bit of the figure in quadrille, lancers, or country-dance, as it begins.  It does sound so curious, when you stand a little way from the house, to hear this ringing voice far above the feeble music of the fiddles!</p><P>Of course there is no excuse for not dancing accurately, and accordingly every one does so with the utmost gravity.  All the men are dressed in most respectable black suits.  I scarcely recognised our friendly horsekeepers and guides (whose ordinary garb is a most picturesque variety of coloured suits, with bright handkerchiefs and broad-brimmed hats) when they suddenly appeared in this serious garb, dancing with all the solemnity of dervishes, following the grave but graceful lead of the principal horsekeeper.</p><P>As I watched this unexpected display of elegance, I bethought me of the comment made by a Scotch coachman, as he gazed into a ball-room where "the quality" were disporting themselves.  "Weel," said he, "it really is a sight for the on-edicated, to see the deelicate way in which the gentry handle the weemen!"</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>I was the more astonished, because my preconceived ideas of a Californian ball-room had been rather rough, founded on tales from the mining districts.  Some of the mining terms, which are very expressive in their ordinary application, are apt to be startling when applied to other subjects.</p><P>For instance, when a mine is fairly worked out, it is said to be "petered out"; and a thing which is complete, is said to be "plum."  So when a stranger chanced recently to enter a ball-room in a mining town, and asked a comely Californian girl to dance, he was slightly puzzled on her replying, "Well, young man, I'd like! you bet!  But I guess my legs are just plum petered out!"</p><P>I guess some of my friends here will be pretty well petered out before morning, as they announce their intention of keeping up the ball till daylight; and I congratulate myself that my sleeping quarters in the other house are almost out of earshot of the floor-master's concise words of command!  How thankful I am that there can be no excuse for torturing the echoes tomorrow with that dreadful steam-whistle and thunderous explosives!</p><P>Yesterday a party of young men returned from a most successful camping-expedition in the High Sierras.  It is about three weeks since they started from here, taking pack-mules to carry the very rudest of mountain-tents, blankets, cooking-pot and kettle, and as many stores as could be compressed into a very small compass.  The Sierras supplied them with abundance of ice-cold water, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:and they were able occasionally to replenish the larder by a lucky shot.  I think they bagged two deer and a bear, and found that steaks of the latter, grilled on a camp-fire, were not to be despised by hungry men.  However, they award the palm to the good roast-mutton, fresh vegetables, and home-made bread, on which they supped last night.</p><P>They returned jubilant, having enjoyed every hour of their mountaineering, and they have acquired a sun-browned look of perfect health, very different to their colour when they came here from the Eastern States.  I quite envy them their trip, though the condition of their garments, all tattered and torn, and especially of their once strong boots (now scarcely to be recognised as such), speaks volumes for the hard work they have accomplished in climbing and scrambling.</p><P>They say they have had no hardships to speak of, and have enjoyed uninterrupted fine weather.  They camped some nights in grassy valleys, beside limpid streams, and at other times in magnificent forests, at a height of about 7000 feet above the sea (all coniferous, of course).</p><P>One of these gentlemen, who has travelled a good deal in the Swiss Alps, says there is no comparison between them and these Californian Alps in point of picturesque beauty, they are of such different types.  The former are by far the most attractive.  Their ice-fields and snows give them a character which is wholly lacking in the Sierras, where glaciers proper have long ceased to exist, though they have left abundant traces of their work in the mighty rocks, polished till they glisten in the light, and the great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:moraines, all strewn with the boulders and gravel deposited by the ice-rivers.</p><P>Then these valleys, beautiful though they be, are sunk so deep between precipitous gorges, as to produce little effect in a general view from any high point; and the vast ranges of cold grey granite, only relieved by the sombre green of pine-forests, becomes somewhat monotonous, however grand.</p><P>From my own experience of mountains, I should say that the Sierras are seen at a disadvantage, from the very circumstance which renders travelling here so delightful--namely, the unvarying fine weather of the summer months.  All mountain scenery owes so much of its glory to the gloom which is only born of stormy skies; and here even a passing thunder-shower is a rare event during the glorious summer months.</p><P>These gentlemen scaled the prison walls (in other words, got out of the valley) by the zigzag trail which leads to the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Falls, thus reaching an upper world about 7000 feet above the sea-level.  There they struck an Indian trail which brought them to Porcupine Flat, a grassy plateau, where they camped for the night, and next day ascended Mount Hoffmann, a bare mass of granite towering upwards of 10,000 feet above the sea, and terminating in a mighty precipice.</p><P>It is the crowning-point of a range dividing the streams which feed the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; from those which flow to the Tenaya.  The former spring from a group of small lakes which lie just at the foot of the mountain.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>The ascent of Mount Hoffmann was an easy matter, and the view from the summit was very striking, owing to the number of ridges and peaks visible from thence, especially the beautiful group known as the Merced, because the River of Mercy has its sources among these cold mountains.</p><P>Descending from Mount Hoffmann, the camping-party very soon made their way to beautiful Lake Tenaya--a quiet mountain-tarn about a mile in length.  They found delightful night-quarters beneath a group of pines at the head of the lake, and there made as cheery a camp as heart could desire.  From here they looked across a valley glittering with beautiful little lakes, each surrounded by quaint granite pyramids and spires, to a very wonderful square-cut granite mass, apparently measuring about a thousand feet in every direction, and crowned at one end by a cluster of pinnacles towering several hundred feet higher.  This is very appropriately named the Cathedral Peak; and, as seen from Lake Tenaya, the likeness to a grand Gothic cathedral is most remarkable.</p><P>Still following the trail by which the Indians annually travel to Mono Lake, the travellers next found themselves in the Tuolumne meadows, which are watered by a clear sparkling river.  They lie in a most picturesque valley fully 9000 feet above the sea, and surrounded by peaks and ranges of from 12,000 to 13,000 feet in height.  On the north side, about forty feet above the river, there are some chalybeate waters, called the Soda Springs, rather pleasant to drink.  Near these they pitched their little tents, and indulged in soda-water to any amount.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Their next object was to reach the summit of Mount Dana, upwards of 13,000 feet.  This also was accomplished without difficulty, and the climbers were rewarded with a magnificent view.  On the one side, 7000 feet below them, and at a distance of six miles, lay the great Mono Lake--the Dead Sea of California--the waters of which are so strongly charged with mineral salts that no living thing can there exist, except the larv&aelig; of a small fly, which contrives to thrive and multiply to a very unpleasant extent.</p><P>Beyond this lake lies the barren desolate wilderness of snow-clad ranges and naked granite-peaks which compose the region known as the Grand Basin--a tract so dry and sterile that it has offered small temptation to encroaching white men.  So here many Indians, original owners of fertile lands to the south, have been driven, to work out hard problems of existence on the hungry desert.</p><P>In the opposite direction lies Mount Lyell, which disputes supremacy with Mount Dana.<ANCHOR ID="n13-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: The former is crowned by a sharp granite pinnacle which towers from a crest of eternal snow, and its base presents vast faces of precipice.  The high snow-fields thereabouts bristle with hundreds of jagged granite-peaks and rock-needles averaging 12,000 feet.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-11">The height of Mount Dana is said to be 13,227 feet; that of Mount Lyell is 13,217.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Mount Dana, on the other hand, is a great mass of slate of a reddish-brown and green colour.</p><P>Beyond Mount Lyell they saw a magnificent peak, which they supposed to be Mount Ritter; and a little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:farther on the same mighty ridge, a series of majestic pinnacles of glittering white granite.  They are known as the Minarets.  All these peaks and minarets are considered inaccessible, which, I should think, was the sole reason which could possibly inspire any one with a wish to climb them.</p><P>The travellers did not seek a nearer acquaintance with the Lyell and Merced groups, though somewhat tempted by hearing that that region is accounted one of the wildest and grandest in the Sierras; but their chief anxiety was to visit a beautiful valley of the same character as this, called the Hetch-Hetchy Valley.  It has only recently been discovered, having been one of the sanctuaries of the Pah-ute Indians, who reckon on always finding there an abundant acorn-harvest.</p><P>This valley is quite easy of access from the lower end, a trail having been made the whole way from Big Oak Flat.  From the upper end, it is a difficult but very beautiful expedition; and this was the route naturally preferred by these young men, to whom a little extra climbing was no objection.</p><P>So from Mount Dana they returned to their former camping-ground at Soda Springs, and thence started on a twenty-miles march down the Tuolumne canyon, a deep and narrow gorge, through which the river rushes between precipitous granite cliffs, over a bed of glacier-polished rocks, making a rapid descent without any great falls, but forming a succession of most beautiful shelving rapids and foaming cascades.  There are two perpendicular falls, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:which in any other country would be accounted worth travelling far to see, one of them being upwards of 200 feet in height--no trifle when the river is full, and pours its flood of melted snow in a grand cataract.  But here these low falls are scarcely considered worth noticing.</p><P>Of course, no quadruped could attempt such a scramble as this expedition involved, over rocks so smooth and polished as to make walking disagreeable and rather dangerous.  So the pack-mules were led round by a trail which strikes off at Lake Tenaya, and enters the Tuolumne valley at a beautiful point just below the "White Cascades," where the river falls rapidly in sheets of dazzling foam.  A little farther down the canyon they found a lovely little meadow--green pastures beside still waters,--for the river here runs level for about a mile, and lies in quiet reaches as if resting after its feverish turmoil.  Here they camped, greatly to the satisfaction of the mules, who revelled in the abundance of all good things.  As they could not possibly be taken farther, they had the privilege of remaining in these pleasant pastures till the return of their masters, who, carrying with them only necessary food, dispensed with such superfluities as tents, and even blankets, and proceeded on their scramble down the canyon.</p><P>It varies greatly in width, being in some places simply a gorge, hemmed in by almost vertical cliffs, upwards of 100 feet in depth, seeming to touch the sky on either side, while the river rushes on in a succession of lovely cascades and rapids, similar to those which they had passed on the previous day.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>At other points the canyon widens and forms a green valley, where pines and firs have found shelter, and grow in stately beauty.  But in the narrower gorges there is not a vestige of soil--only the smooth shining slabs of granite, polished and scratched by the great glacier which once filled the valley to the depth of 800 or 1000 feet, up to which height its markings are clearly visible on the cliffs.</p><P>There are some beautiful falls, just where the Cathedral Creek (which has its source at the Cathedral Peak) joins the Tuolumne, and above these rises a stupendous mass of granite known as the Grand Mountain.  <HI REND="italics">It is a huge bare rock</HI>
127.sgm: FOUR THOUSAND FEET <HI REND="italics">in height</HI>
127.sgm:.  Just imagine what a great solid giant!--nearly 1000 feet higher than the mighty crag El Capitan, which guards the entrance of this valley!</p><P>Below this the gorge narrows, and the river flows between steep rock-walls, till it enters the Hetch-Hetchy valley, which is almost a counterpart of Yo&macr;-semite&acute; on a smaller scale.  It is a crescent-shaped valley, about three miles in length, and half a mile wide at the broadest part.  It lies 3650 feet above the sea, and, like Yo&macr;-semite&acute;, its level green meadows are sunk between high vertical granite crags.  When the snows are melting in spring, one of these is almost a facsimile of El Capitan, but is <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
127.sgm: 1800 feet high.  It has just such a fall as that which beautifies its great brother at the same season.  There is also a huge rock 2270 feet high, which strongly resembles the Cathedral rock in the Yo&macr;-semite&acute;.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Then the great Hetch-Hetchy Fall is almost a replica of the "Great Grizzly" in this valley.  Certainly it is <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
127.sgm: 1700 feet high, and is less perpendicular than the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Fall; but it has a larger volume of water, and is exceedingly beautiful.  In the spring-time many additional falls pour into the valley, which terminates in a gorge so narrow that the waters thus accumulated cannot escape, but form a large lake, flooding the meadows, which later in the season afford pasturage to the flocks of sheep and herds of cattle which are driven up from Big Oak Flat.</p><P>There is a good deal of fine timber in the valley,--in short, the exploring party all agree that it is a very grand spot, though by no means so stupendous as this valley.  This verdict greatly consoles me, as I am not likely to visit it; and the few people who have previously described it to me have, I fancy, rather unduly extolled it, and made me feel as if I was bound to undergo any amount of fatigue rather than miss seeing it.</p><P>The fact is, I do feel very idle as regards making any effort to visit distant points.  All my immediate surroundings here are so perfectly beautiful, and the views of the Sierras, from any of the near points, are so extensive and so grand, that I am satisfied, and feel no inclination to face the discomforts of camp-life.  This green valley is my Capua; it holds me spellbound, and magnifies all the difficulties and fatigues involved in an expedition to the High Sierras: so you must rest content with a vague dream of interminable granite-ranges--a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:wilderness of bare ridges, with here and there a fantastic knob or pinnacle, and on every side dark-green pine-forests, so that the general effect of the landscape is that of a troubled grey sea, here and there tinged with dull green.</p><P>Such is the prosaic vision I conjure up whenever my locomotive demon bids me be up and away.  But it really is no hardship to camp out in such a blessed climate as this,--a few carefully laid young boughs of red fir make a couch as fragrant and as springy as a closely packed bed of heather, with the blossoms set upright.  And then the stillness of the great Sierras and the solemn gloom of the forest, canopied by the wondrously blue scarlet heavens, have an indescribable fascination, which often tempts me to go and camp out myself.  But then comes the one grand argument which counteracts all romance, and decides me in favour of this pleasant little room upstairs; and the argument is summed up in one word--RATTLESNAKES!</p><P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
127.sgm: 12 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>Ever since the day in spring when the deep snow foiled our attempt to reach the summit of Cloud's Rest, I have been purposing to make it out, but never did so till yesterday.</p><P>I arranged overnight to join the sisters at the cottage, and ride up together in the first gleam of dawn.</p><P>Something occurred to detain them, so I rode on alone up the dewy valley, through the azalea-thickets and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:great clumps of dark pine, rejoicing in the sweet freshness of the morning air and the blessed silence.  Only the faint breeze murmured melodiously as it rustled amid the pine-boughs, and the blue jays chattered to their mates.</p><P>Through the night there had been a soft summer shower, and now wreaths of slowly curling vapour floated among the crags, becoming ever thinner and more transparent, till there remained only a luminous haze, which magnified rocks and trees, transforming them to spectral giants.</p><P>The beautiful Illillouette canyon still lay in deep gloom as I crossed its crystal stream and began the steep ascent of the Merced canyon.  Presently the pine-crested summits of the highest crags shone like rubies in the light of the rising sun, and a misty golden glow stole through the forest, and gleamed on the polished face of the great Glacier Point, while the pine-woods in the deep gulches assumed a bluer shade of purple.</p><P>I wonder if the remembrance of the loveliest expeditions you ever made in the Highlands will help your imagination to fill in this outline of an enchanting morning ride, throwing in wild flowers, and golden mosses, and squirrels, and notes of birds, and all manner of beautiful details.</p><P>On reaching the little rest-house at the foot of the Nevada Falls I found three very pleasant Anglo-Indians<ANCHOR ID="n13-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: just starting thence for the same bourne, under the care of one of the guides--Murphy by name--a rugged old Californian of the ideal type.  So, leaving a message for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:sisters I joined these pilgrims from the Indian land, and we rode on together, toiling up the steep trail by the lovely Nevada Falls (which seem as full as ever, though the snow-fed Yo&macr;-semite&acute; Falls have shrunk to a quarter of their spring volume, and all the temporary falls have quite dried up).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-12">I may venture to name Mr and Mrs Ernest Birch and Sir John Campbell Brown as the companions of this delightful day.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>The mountain meadows near which, on our first visit, we gathered the crimson snow-flowers, are now transformed to fairy-like lawns of flowery pasture, where sheep are browsing contentedly, while here and there a solitary Indian wanders along the sparkling stream, thence alluring many a speckled trout.</p><P>Skirting the base of the huge Split Dome (which George Anderson, regarding the giant with all the pride of a conqueror, frequently invites me to ascend under his able guidance, but which I consider as a feat too dangerous to compensate for the risk), we gradually ascended into the higher forest, composed chiefly of Douglas spruce, yellow pine, and silver fir, with here and there open glades or "parks"-- <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
127.sgm:., grassy slopes, dotted with clumps of aspen, and cotton-wood, and flowering dog-wood; green valleys, watered by clear rippling streamlets--most tempting feeding-ground for deer.</p><P>These forests are singularly open--no sombre gloom about them.  Nowhere are the pines so crowded as to lose their individuality, even where they are most richly massed.  Each solemn pyramid rises distinctly, preserving its own dignity, and allowing the sunlight to play freely on the flowers and mosses which carpet the ground below.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>I am told by men who know the Sierras well, that each species of fir seems to prefer a special altitude, so that an experienced forester can form a fair estimate of the height to which he has climbed by observing what class of trees predominate, and their condition, whether flourishing, or dwarfed and poor.  Of course the same species may clothe the mountains for a space of several thousand feet; but whereas on the lower levels only small pines stand singly or in scattered groups (their stunted growth telling of seasons of drought and scorching), an ascent of 4000 to 5000 feet brings him to the true pine-belt.</p><P>At this level all the loveliest species of the cone-bearing family grow in stately groups, like stanch clansmen ranged around their chief.  The magnificent silver fir seems to prefer a somewhat higher level of this middle zone, in which alone the trees attain perfection, apparently finding the richest soil and most equable climate halfway between the thirsty foot-hills and the storm-swept summits.</p><P>The mountain-ridges are indeed sprinkled to a height of about 12,000 feet, with dwarfed, gnarled trees, that look as weather-beaten as the disintegrated rock to which they cling.  They stand mute witnesses to the ceaseless battles which, through long years, they have waged with wintry winds, and frosts, and snows, in that hungry upper world, where these frugal hermits derive their sole nourishment from the dews of heaven and its sunlight.</p><P>Following a very circuitous route, we eventually found ourselves at the back of Cloud's Rest, which we then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:ascended by so gentle a gradient that we were able to ride almost to the summit.  There we found the sisters quietly seated at luncheon--Manuel, the Spanish guide, having brought them up by a very dangerous short cut, where one of the horses had fallen backward, but, wonderful to relate, had not seriously damaged either himself or his rider.</p><P>Never was luncheon more acceptable; but mine was hurried over, to allow time for a careful bird's-eye drawing from this high point, 10,000 feet above the sea.  Just in front of us, but 1000 feet lower, rose the Split Dome--the strangest, ghostliest-looking crag in all creation.</p><P>We had left the valley all aglow with rich colour--greenest meadows and foliage, in which gold and russet, with touches of crimson, mingled with the dark hue of the pine-woods.  Here we suddenly found ourselves on a bare granite summit, overlooking a world of white granite domes and ledges and crags--a pale spirit-world in which all is colourless--spectral even in the sunlight; and how weird it must be in the moonlight!</p><P>Here and there huge rock-masses stand prominent, suggesting ancient keeps; but the general effect is rather that of a boundless ocean of motionless waves--range beyond range of undulating, arid ridges extending in grand sweeps to the farthest horizon,--a vast expanse of white and grey and green--quiet harmonious greys and sober greens.  Overhead a canopy of clear cold blue and floating clouds, white and dazzling as the snow on the distant peaks, but casting light drifting shadows on the pale world below.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>A deathlike stillness pervades the scene--not a cry of beast nor voice of bird breaks the deep silence which reigns in this high wilderness.</p><P>Overlooking this wide expanse of billowy mountain-ranges, we could trace the course of ancient glaciers by the tinge of green, telling of distant forests that have sprung up wherever the ice-rivers once flowed (bearing on their smooth surface the boulders loosened by the action of frost from the great domes and pinnacles), crushing and grinding the rock-pavement, and at last depositing the crumbling rocks and boulders, and so forming moraines--virgin soil, on which vegetation mush have seemed to spring up by magic, clothing that gravelly bed with tender green.</p><P>Then, as the soil deepened with the decay of successive ages, the forests came into being, growing year by year more luxuriantly wherever the deposit of the moraines gave them a chance, and skirting the pavements of smooth granite so highly polished by the Ice-king that no crumbling soil could there find a resting-place, and not even the humblest moss could grow, or has been able to do so to the present day.  So the forest-robes of the Grey Giants act the part of skirts rather than of mantle, since the bare shoulders remain exposed and cold.</p><P>To the right we looked down a steep slope of 6000 feet of the barest granite slabs, into the vast chasm, wherein the valley lies in green repose, half in light and half in shadow, and a wavering line of blue and silver marks the course of the River of Mercy.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>We lingered so long on the summit that the day was far gone ere we commenced the descent; and as we rode through the forest glades, we caught lovely vistas of the distant hills, no longer grey and ghastly, but etherealised by the golden rays of a level sun--a mellow glow, blending all harsh lines in a flood of glory, and changing the sombre hues of the pine-forests to a rich velvety golden green.</p><P>Presently the gold changed to a flush of crimson, and this to ethereal amethyst, lighting up the summits of the Sierras with glittering pinnacles.  Range beyond range seemed to blend in that rosy light, while the pine-clad valleys lay steeped in varying shades of purply blue.  Every tint of rose and violet, deepening to purple and indigo, was successively thrown on the landscape, as if the sinking sun were trying a series of effects with coloured fire.</p><P>When the sunset light seemed to have quite died away, and all our world lay in shadow, then commenced an after-glow, in which colour seemed to run riot--blue-grey clouds were fringed with orange and vermilion, while dove-colour became crimson.</p><P>Leaving the Anglo-Indians at the Nevada Falls resthouse, I followed the river with the sisters, taking the short cut down the wooden ladders, while Manuel led the horses round by the long trail.  It was pitch-dark ere he rejoined us, and, tired as I was, I preferred walking down the canyon to trusting the chances of a fall among the boulders, though in truth the beasts were surer of foot than any human being.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>So I was not sorry when, at 10 P.M., we saw the lights of the village, and were welcomed back with Californian heartiness.  The great feature of the scratch supper that awaited us was a large basket of splendid ripe blackberries from the low country, where they are grown for the market as we grow raspberries.  They lose the wild gamey flavour which makes our blackberry rank above other fruits, as grouse above other birds; but they are nevertheless excellent, especially when accompanied by a good bowl of rich cream.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>HUMAN SHEEP--EXHIBITION--WATKINS'S PHOTOGRAPHS--FAREWELL TO Yo&macr;-SEMITE&acute;--TUOLUMNE BIG TREE--PLACER-MINING--CHINESE CAMP--SONORA--PACTOLUS--HYDRAULIC MINING--A MINER'S CITY--FRUIT AND DUST.</p><P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
127.sgm: 20 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>CERTAINLY human beings are wonderfully like sheep; not independent, fearless, mountain sheep, which sportsmen describe as full of individual character--but regular domestic follow-my-leader sheep.  They must move in flocks or not at all.  Just as the Sassenachs<ANCHOR ID="n14-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: never dream of visiting Scotland in the beautiful spring and summer months, but pour in in an unmanageable flood during the autumn, so it is here.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-11"><HI REND="italics">Sassenach</HI>
127.sgm:<P>For the last six weeks there has not been an empty bed in any of the hotels, and camping-parties have been legion.</p><P>Now, though the weather is lovelier than ever, the valley is wellnigh deserted.  I am the sole surviving guest at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:this hotel, though the sisters still occupy the cottage.  All the regular inhabitants of the valley hang about in listless idleness, their occupation gone for the present, and their herds of mules and ponies turned out to grass.  They expect a short spirt of work a little later in the summer, during certain holidays, but "the season" is apparently at an end.</p><P>Of course a few people continue to drop in, and the coaches run as usual.  There is still a pleasant party at one of the hotels, including a very clever and agreeable artist, Mr Bradford, who met you some years ago at Niddry Lodge, when he came to London, on his return from a wonderful expedition to Greenland, undertaken solely to paint icebergs, in which he has been eminently successful.  Now he is devoting his brush to wonders nearer home, and more attractive to ordinary mortals.  (Don't you observe that people in general prefer subjects with which they are, or might be, familiar, to the grandest pictures of unknown scenes?)</p><P>I have myself held rather an amusing Great Exhibition this afternoon.  Latterly I have repeatedly been asked to "do portfolio" for the edification of various friends; but the people who took the keenest interest in all the sketches were just those who had not seen them, so I had promised them all to have a grand show before I leave the valley.  That sad day, alas! is drawing near; so, having issued a general invitation to every man, woman, and child in the neighbourhood, I borrowed a lot of sheets from my landlady, who allowed me to nail them all round the outside of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:wooden house.  To these I fastened each sketch with small pins, so that the verandah became a famous picture gallery.</p><P>I certainly have got through a good deal of work in the last three months, having twenty-five finished drawings, and as many more very carefully drawn and half coloured.  Most of these are large, for water-colour sketches--about thirty by twenty inches--as I find it far more troublesome to express such vast subjects on a smaller scale.</p><P>I was amused by the zeal with which one of the guides constituted himself showman, and went round and round the verandah descanting on every drawing.  Hitherto he has always been so busy with tourists, that I had not previously discovered this kindred spirit.  He did his work thoroughly; for when I returned from my walk, I found him still hard at it!  I was much gratified by the enthusiasm of the Yo&macr;-semite&acute;-ites, as they recognised all their favourite points of view, and vouched for the rigid accuracy of each,--that being the one quality for which I have striven, feeling sorely aggrieved by the unscrupulous manner in which some celebrated artists have sacrificed faithfulness of outline to make grand Nature fit their ideal.  They are the fashionable staymakers and general improvers of the Sierras!</p><P>Happily for the Yo&macr;-semite&acute;, it lends itself admirably to photography, and has found various enthusiastic artists in that line, chief among whom still ranks Mr Watkins,<ANCHOR ID="n14-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:whose beautiful work reached us in England some years ago, and first made me long to visit this grand region.  He has been working here all this summer, camping in the valley, and carrying his materials in a great covered waggon, which he stations at some accessible spot, and thence makes his expeditions to all the finest points.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-12">Mr Watkins has conferred so great a boon on travellers in making the valley known when it was first discovered (and only to be reached by difficult and dangerous trails), that it was a matter of sincere regret to many to learn that, through business difficulties, all his original photographic plates passed to other hands.  The new photographs above referred to, which are superior to the original set, are now sold by Mr Watkins himself at 427 Montgomery Street, San Francisco.  And as it is only on these that the artist reaps any profit, travellers have a double inducement to purchase no others.  I have mentioned this to friends visiting San Francisco; but the agents for the original photos have generally waylaid them, offering to show them the only place where Watkin's photos were to be sold, and so have secured the custom of the strangers.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
127.sgm: 22 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>I have really decided to uproot myself this week, but it is a great struggle.  I cannot tell you how I have grown to love this valley.  Each mighty crag has become an individual friend;--each flowery bed in the sunny meadows, and all the green glades in the pine-forests, where the darling little squirrels have borne me company through the happy days;--each quiet bend of the poplar-shaded river, and all the merry rippling rivulets, laughing and leaping in frothy foaming falls and rapids, then resting in tranquil reaches, where the light falls tremulously through the overshadowing golden-green leaves, and plays on the shadowy pools, revealing the flakes of glittering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:mica, which we call Pilgrim's gold,--all these are the friends who have whispered messages of peace, and gladdened me with their beauty for so many weeks.  Now the thought of leaving them for ever makes me sad.</p><P>The human friends urge me to stay on and see the valley in "the fall," when autumn tints give touches of colour to the gulches, and when the smoke of the low-country fires throws a warm lurid haze over the whole landscape.</p><P>But already I have watched many changes.  The waterfalls, which in May and June were mighty cataracts, have now dwindled to silvery ribbons.  The glory of the scented azaleas is departing; and this evening I have been sitting among the golden "stooks" in a yellow harvest-field which was a fresh young green the first morning we passed it.  It is only a little field, happily too small for the wholesale harvesting of the great wheat-valleys!</p><P><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
127.sgm: 24 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>I have had my last expedition from the valley to a high summit I had never before visited--namely, the Sentinel Dome, which lies beyond the giant Sentinel Rock-needle.  An English lady bore me company, and the excellent Murphy offered himself as our escort--a picturesque rugged Californian, well in keeping with his surroundings.</p><P>I need not give you details of our day, which would sound to you only like an oft-repeated echo of what you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:have already heard (just as I sometimes hear a single thunder-clap reverberated from one great crag to another, till it seems as though it would never cease).  Of course, the reality is always full of new delight--such views as these could never be monotonous, and, as I see them daily from new points, they are ever varying.</p><P>Suffice it to say, that we ascended a terraced trail till we reached the bald rounded summit of a grey granite dome<ANCHOR ID="n14-13">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: towering 4000 feet above the valley, a wind-swept rock-pavement, with a few strangely picturesque old cedars, blasted and splintered by many a wintry storm.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-13">Sentinel Dome, 4125 feet=8125 feet above the sea.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Of course the panorama in every direction was grand, the farthest peaks showing sharply through air so crisp and clear that it seemed to glitter.  Above all, there was the unspeakable delight, peculiar to these high regions, of unbroken stillness--not one distinct sound breaks the solemn silence of the hills.  And yet, as you listen intently, you realise that what you deemed silence is, in truth, a mingling of multitudinous whispering voices of nature--the faint sighing of the breeze as it sweeps lightly through the pine-forests, and the distant murmur of the many waterfalls.  Distance has mellowed the thunder of those falling waters, as years soften saddest memories.</p><P>When I had looked my last on the wide ocean-like expanse of undulating granite ranges, Murphy led the way by a very rough but beautiful forest-trail, till we struck the Illillouette above the falls, and halted for luncheon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<illus entity="a127-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW OF THE SIERRAS FROM SENTINEL DOME</p></CAPTION>
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127.sgm:in an exquisitely green meadow beside the cool lovely river.</p><P>What a contrast from the ghastly region all around us!  How the tired horses did revel in those luscious green pastures, and how loath both they and their riders were to abandon so pleasant a resting-place!  But new visions of beauty met us at every turn on the circuitous homeward trail, and I am fain to believe that this last ride has been the loveliest of all.</p><P>It has been a long day--starting with the summer dawn, and returning in the twilight; and then a round of the village to say good-bye to many friends.  Now I must sorrowfully finish packing--so good night.</p><P>CHINESE CAMP, <HI REND="italics">July</HI>
127.sgm: 25 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>Alas!  what a change has come over the spirit of my dream!  This morning in Paradise; to-night in--well, in a forsaken mining village--of all dismal and dreary things on earth, the most hideous.</p><P>Never had the valley looked more lovely than when, after many hearty farewells, I took my seat, as sole passenger, on the top of the Oak Flat coach, and drove away in the early dawn; never had El Capitan appeared so stupendous as when, after skirting its base, the coach toiled up the steep road through the hanging oak forest, and I looked back for the last time to the beautiful, majestic crags, and the green valley which has been my home for three such happy months.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>For the first few hours the road lay through a very fine pine-forest, with here and there a solitary plant of the tall pale lily of the Sierras, which is just like the "virgin lily" of our own gardens--a lovely queen of blossoms.</p><P>We passed through the Tuolumne grove of Big trees, where, by a quaint freak, the road is led right through the heart of a grand old burnt stump, known as the Dead Giant.  He had so long been used by the Indians as a camping-place and kitchen, that his inside was quite burnt out, and at last the main shaft fell; so only the huge base remains, like a strong red tower, ninety-three feet in cir- cumference.  The woodman's saw has completed the tunnel right through the poor burnt heart, and now the tall coach, with its mixed company from many lands, drives daily through the great tree, that for so many centuries has here reigned lord of the forest.</p><P>Having no other passenger to consider, the coachman very good-naturedly pulled up at the tree, and waited patiently while I found a good sketching-point, and secured a rapid drawing.  He was good enough to set me down as being "of the right sort," because, one of the wheelers having fallen, I jumped down and held the leaders till he had loosed the traces and restored order.  Knowing my inveterate cowardice with respect to horses, you will fully appreciate the situation!</p><P>We halted for luncheon at a pretty cottage, covered with trailing hops: a cheery pleasant woman, like an English farmer's wife, came out to greet us--and to welcome us to "a square meal," with good roast-meat, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the invariable big teapot.  I profited by some spare minutes to work at my sketch of the Dead Giant, whereat the old lady was vastly entertained.  "Why," said she, "you must be the lady I hear them talk of <HI REND="italics">who makes pictures just like a man</HI>
127.sgm:!  And--why, dear me! you wear a man's hat!  Why, I do believe you are a man!  Come now, do tell me,--aren't you a man really?</p><P>I tried hard to make her believe that it was quite correct for English ladies to wear wide-brimmed soft felt hats, but the effort was hopeless.  Neither she nor any of the women in the valley could believe it, and I felt really glad when an essentially feminine and golden-haired English woman arrived there, wearing a ditto.</p><P>Why my poor little water-colour paint-box should be considered masculine I cannot say, but it attracted great notice in the valley as something quite unknown, even to most of the tourists,--the artist masculine, armed with cumbersome oil-paints, being the only specimen of the genus known in the Sierras.</p><P>All this afternoon our route has lain through old fields--the very country to which we all remember the rush from England, when first the gold-fever broke out.  Then thousands and tens of thousands of all nations were here, digging and washing, and dozens of coaches ran daily over roads where to-day I travelled in solitary state on my coach-and-five, in clouds of dust and grilling heat.  The whole country in every direction has been dug out or tunnelled--every ounce of earth has been washed away, leaving only curiously contorted layers of rock.  You can imagine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:no devastation more dreary and hideous.  All the mines hereabouts are considered to be worked out, and we saw some very disheartened-looking men on the tramp, seeking better luck.</p><P>The coachman gave a lift to a fine young Cornish lad, who said he had already walked for many a weary day in search of work, and had become well acquainted with the pangs of hunger.  Of course many of the miners are a roving lot of inveterate wanderers,--rolling stones, who make their pile one day and lose it the next, then try elsewhere, work hard for a while, invest in a claim--which very likely turns out unlucky--and then have to begin again.  Possibly their claim had been carefully "salted,"-- <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
127.sgm:., sprinkled with gold-dust by the last owner, with a view to getting rid of a worthless possession.</p><P>All the skeletonised country hereabouts tells of old placer-mining, which was the early superficial system of washing the loose gold deposited in alluvial soil, by means of the old-fashioned, primitive "cradle," which was a rude hand-sluice.  The refuse soil which has been thus washed is called "tailings"; and this is what the careful Chinamen and Indians now wash a second and even a third time, always with some result.</p><P>We passed through some of the original settlements of the early miners, where the gold-seekers have scooped out hollows in every bank, and the earth is burrowed as if it were a rabbit-warren, and seamed with deep ditches dug as channels to bring water for the gold-washing.  Now not one living creature remains of all that swarming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:throng.  Only straggling rows of shabby dismantled buildings, and a few squalid weather-board huts, with flaunting fronts, proclaiming them to be stores (like pigmies hiding behind monstrous masks), still stand desolate and lone,--unsightly reminders of those toilers in dirt and discomfort who created these mining stations.</p><P>Here and there roads, now disused, mark the direction of some mountain-mine which once was the centre of hope and keenest interest, to men gathered from the east and from the west, the north and the south--men who, in those days of mad excitement, periodically poured down from their remote camps, carrying their gold-dust in bags, and armed with pistols and bowie-knives, bent on a Sabbathday's rest from hard labour, and the full enjoyment of as much chain-lightning whisky, and the row to follow, as could conveniently be procured!</p><P>The capital of all this district, and the central meeting-place of these choice spirits, was Chinese Camp, where we now are.  It is a tumble-down, semi-deserted town.  The liveliest spot is the hotel, where a few men are hanging about, on their way to Sonora, where there is a small temporary revival of excitement.<ANCHOR ID="n14-14">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-14">These mining cities are like Jonah's gourd.  They come up in a night, and perish in a night.  The 'San Francisco News Letter' gives a graphic description of the rapid growth of one which only sprouted in August 1881, when a number of miners assembled at a silver district in Dakota, U.S., not far from Deadwood.  They fixed on the most desirable site for their town, drew lots for the different pieces of ground, arranged the rules of government, and named the place "West Virginia City."  Within two days the mushroom city contained 1000 inhabitants and nine drinking-saloons.  On the following day restaurants were opened; also two faro banks.  On the fourth day, the first number of a daily newspaper was issued.  Within a week fifty buildings were erected, and 500 dollars were paid for desirable building-sites.</NOTE>
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127.sgm:<P>Nothing astonishes me more than to see the good fruit, which appears as if by magic, at the various wayside inns, where apparently the only crop that flourishes is dust,--a choking, fine grey dust which permeates all things.  The fruit is the only tempting food here; for though a substantial "square meal" of beef, Indian corn, and potatoes awaited the coach, I was nearly sickened by the multitude of black flies which crawled all over the table and darkened the windows in buzzing swarms.  It was therefore a double treat when a splendid dish of large, juicy blackberries appeared, supported by a bowl of rich cream--both unexpected luxuries.  I think I have told you that quantities of blackberries are grown for the market all over this country, and very good they are.</p><P>SONORA, <HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
127.sgm: 28 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>Left Chinese Camp at sunrise, without much regret.  The coach was driven by its proprietor, who proved a pleasant companion, and told me much of the story of the strange country through which we were passing.  Such hideous country! a world of honeycombed rocks and dust, only relieved by turbid red streams, telling of the eager gold-seekers, who are so busily washing the soil in every direction.</p><P>In some of the little valleys, watered (and occasionally overflowed) by mountain torrents, we came on parties of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:gulch-miners--in other words, "diggers," as distinguished from those engaged in quartz-crushing.  The latter, of course, require a considerable outlay of capital in machinery and labour; whereas any strong man owning a pick and shovel can sink a gulch--in other words, dig a deep wide ditch, into which he can lead water from a higher level by means of a flume, which is a simple aqueduct formed by a series of long wooden troughs raised on trestles.  Then he can dig and wash the soil at his leisure; and though rarely rewarded by finding nuggets such as gladden the gold-diggers of Australia, he may hope (by means of quicksilver) to secure a considerable amount of gold-dust, with occasional morsels the size of a pin's head.</p><P>It is dirty, disagreeable work, and generally involves standing up to the knees in water and mud from morning till night, sluicing, and gulching, and washing.  So the prize is hardly earned; and now that white men have effectually skimmed the cream of this surface gold, they are content to abandon the field to the Chinamen, who, like patient and frugal gleaners, go carefully over the ground, and find enough of gold-dust to repay their toil: so every stream is red and muddy with the ceaseless washing.</p><P>We drove through the ruined remains of what have been quite large mining towns, now utterly deserted--long rows of dismal wooden shanties, dust-coloured or glaring white, with hot zinc roofs.  Every bit of soil, for miles and miles, has been dug and washed, and every inch of the rocks thus laid bare has been picked and examined <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:by the gold-hunters.  But here and there we saw fertile orchards and vineyards, and learnt that some provident soul had created dams to trap the red alluvial "slum" as it floated away in the turbid streams; so whether he got gold or not, he made sure of perhaps many acres of good fertile land, which still abides, and makes the very best garden soil.  It was quite saddening to see many such orchards deserted, and to think of all the good toil that has here been wasted.</p><P>For some miles our road lay along the broad ancient bed of the Stanislaus river, which, some years ago, was by superhuman labour turned into a new channel, from a conviction that it would prove to be another Pactolus, yielding untold gold.  It proved to be untold, in the sense of infinitesimal, to the amazement and disgust of all concerned.</p><P>The miners have their own theories of a Californian Pactolus, which seem to be well supported by modern experiments.  They believe that in antediluvian days a vast river flowed over great regions in California, washing down immense deposits of auriferous quartz from the mountains.  Loose fragments of gold and gold-dust were carried down by the torrent, and, being heaviest, sank to the bottom of the stream, and there remained.  So the channel became thickly strewn with gold.</p><P>In course of ages the river disappeared, and its bed was, in places, covered to the depth of hundreds of feet by masses of lava-rock or gravel.  Elsewhere the channel was upheaved, so that it is to be traced on some high mountain-sides.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>So firmly do Californian miners believe in this theory, that where they find indications of having struck the course of the ancient river-bed, they will invest huge sums of money in tunnels and flumes for carrying away the loose rock and soil, which they must remove to reach the bed.  Thus hills, perhaps hundreds of feet in depth, are washed away by the irresistible force of water.</p><P>Where only a shallow deposit is found, individual parties can work it by sheer physical toil; but where it is very deep, there hydraulic mining companies are formed.</p><P>The soil being removed, the miner's theory certainly seems to be proven, for the sub-strata does resemble the bed of a vast river,--an immense deposit of fine gravel, with water-worn, polished, rounded rock-boulders, and layers of rock all water-eaten and honeycombed--and much gold lodged in the rock, and lying loose in the fine gravel.  So this is declared to be the bed of the pre-Adamite river.</p><P>Whether this be so or not, the system of hydraulic mining which was introduced, is truly wonderful in its results.  If it is desired to wash away the whole side of a mountain, perhaps a couple of thousand kegs of gunpowder are inserted in every direction, and exploded.  Thus the earth and rocks are loosened.  Then water-power is brought to bear.</p><P>The water is sometimes led from reservoirs a hundred miles distant, and at a great elevation.  It is brought through eight or ten inch iron pipes, and ejected through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:a nozzle like that of a fire-hose.  Such is its impetus that it would cut a man in two should he chance to be in the way of the stream, even at a considerable distance from the pipe.  Half-a-dozen such hose directed against a hillside, play with such irresistible force that they wash down rocks and earth, till at length a huge landslip occurs.</p><P>At many mines thus worked, a surface of several acres in width and a couple of hundred feet in height is daily washed away.  The auriferous dirt and gravel are washed into long sluice-boxes, in the bottom of which is laid quicksilver, to attract the gold.</p><P>But the greatest expense of this work is incurred in carrying off the immense mass of <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
127.sgm:.  To do this, it is necessary to secure a rapid fall of ground towards some deep valley or stream; and there are cases, such as that of the Smartsville gold-beds, in which it has been necessary to drive a tunnel through a great hill, perhaps through several thousand feet of hard rock, in order to find an outlet for the raging mud-torrent, which rushes down at racing speed, bearing with it huge rocks, and so finds an outlet in the Yuba river--formerly a clear trout-stream, now a sluggish ditch-like river of red mud.</p><P>The coach halted at a big cattle-ranch to water the horses, and the ranch-men brought us a bowl of delicious milk to wash down the stifling dust.  They would accept no payment, but gave it with a cheery welcome that made it doubly acceptable.  They were fine, strapping, well-to-do, well-clad men, thriving and hearty, proud of their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:glorious country of California, and anxious that every stranger should carry away a good impression of it.</p><P>A little before noon we reached this town of Sonora, which, though fast decaying, is still the headquarters of mining operations in these parts.  Though somewhat dilapidated, it is quite a fair-sized town, and has two large hotels, four churches, schools, restaurants, bar-rooms without number, large shops with fire-proof iron shutters and iron doors.  Much money has here been expended; but life has passed by, and these properties are now almost worthless, the houses standing empty--mere skeletons.</p><P>The coach rattled up the long, dead-and-alive street which forms the principal feature of the place, and deposited me at a very clean, handsome hotel, where, somewhat to my annoyance, I am compelled to spend a whole day, as, tourists being scarce, the other coach is not to run till to-morrow.</p><P>So I have had plenty of time to look about me; and though the place is not beautiful, it is interesting.  The surrounding country has all been worked out in surface mining, but it is not yet thoroughly exhausted, and some lucky men still occasionally hit on a good thing, and contrive to wash out a few thousand dollars.  If a travelling circus, or any such delight, finds its way to Sonora, the big lads go out with old pans, and contrive to "pan-out" as much gold-dust as will pay for their admission.</p><P>In former days, gold-dust, by weight or by measure, was the medium of exchange for everything.  Tobacconists sold an ounce of "negrohead" for "a pinch" of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:gold-dust--a mode of payment which was greatly in favour of the man with a large thumb!  (By the way, I hear that a favourite singer has been giving concerts at the Temora gold-fields in New South Wales, when the open-handed miners showered on her, not only applause, nor even bouquets, but genuine nuggets, twisted up in bits of paper!  Decidedly a useful form of approbation!)</p><P>The recent lucky finds of gold have proved fortunate for some of the men who had spent thousands of dollars on building here in prosperous times, and who now cannot sell at any price.  In some cases they have found a new source of wealth under their feet, by pulling down their houses, and washing the soil on which they stood.  One man, whose store stands in the main street of Sonora, finding he could not sell his property at a fair price, turned his assistants into gold-miners, and, by removing the soil to the depth of perhaps twenty feet, and washing it, they found gold-dust to the value of 4000 dollars.  The soil was trapped, so that it could not be washed away, and was then replaced, and the house rebuilt as before!</p><P>Just at present, the dying life of Sonora has somewhat revived, in consequence of hopeful operations at "The Confidence Quartz Mine," which is in a mountain about twelve miles from here.  For years it was worked at a dead loss by two successive companies, who excavated to the depth of 200 feet, and then finally abandoned it.  After a while, a third company started it afresh.  This time it appears to be answering the highest expectations, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:and is set down as one of those happy exceptions--a successful mine.</p><P>So a multitude of eager men are now thronging to seek work at "The Confidence," and the dull streets of Sonora echo the speech of many nationalities.  Hard-headed Yankees from the Eastern States; hopeful, reckless Celts from the Emerald Isle, earnest canny ones from Scotland; Cornish men, Kentish men, Portuguese, Norse, Danes, representatives of all nations,--flocking from afar to take their share of hard unlovely toil, digging and delving like moles, in dark, dirty tunnels, all for the chance of gold.</p><P>Still, the real inhabitants, such as my landlady, say that the present crowd is hardly worth mentioning, as compared with the busy throng of 1849 and the following years, when on Saturday nights the miners poured in from all their lonely cabins, to buy stores, and bring their week's gain to be despatched to San Francisco in the strong-box of the Express, or, too often, to squander it at the gambling dens or whisky bars.  On those nights a procession, more than half a mile long, was formed by eager men, waiting their turn to approach the post-office--that weekly lottery which might perhaps have brought them a letter from some far country which they called home.</p><P>The actual residents of Sonora seem rather to like the place.  They say it has a good climate; the nights are always cold, however grilling may be the dusty noonday.  There are no mosquitos, and no fevers; and the easy going life of doing nothing seems a natural reaction from the fiery gold-fever of past years.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>Roses and oleanders contrive to blossom beneath a thick coating of dust, and there are very fine vineyards and orchards all round the town.  Through these I have been wandering at large unheeded, and should probably have been told "I was heartily welcome" had I helped myself to their treasures.  Large fig-trees form the chief feature of the vegetation.  They have just done yielding a heavy crop, and a second is due ere long.  The grapes are splendid, but are not yet fully ripe.</p><P>I must tell you a trifling but characteristic incident of this New World life.  As I was coming up to my room (a very smart one), a fine stalwart miner, from Virginia city, came up to his (equally smart).  He was in his muddy working-clothes, and carried a big bucket full of magnificent ripe peaches.  Of these he insisted on giving me more than I could carry,--and I only hope he enjoyed his own share as thoroughly as I did those he so generously bestowed on a stranger.</p><P>In the colonies we are thoroughly familiar with Californian peaches and apricots "canned"; but this was my first introduction to the genuine article, freshly gathered.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>HOT GORGE OF THE STANISLAUS--A SLEEPY COACHMAN--MURPHY'S--A CHILL DRIVE--CALAVERAS--THE FOREST--BIG TREES--RATTLESNAKES--WOODPECKERS AND BLUE JAYS--MAGGOTS--SQUIRRELS--TARANTULAS.</p><P>CALAVERAS, <HI REND="italics">Sunday, July</HI>
127.sgm: 28 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>ONCE more I am in paradise--whether in the seventh heaven or in any lower degree I cannot venture to say, but assuredly in the most glorious forest sanctuary that can possibly be conceived.</p><P>As a matter of course, the approach to paradise was not altogether delightful.  The first part of yesterday's journey was through the same ghastly, denuded, old mining country, the anatomy of the rocks all laid bare in the most unbecoming manner.  The heat was grilling, and it really seemed as if poor mother earth were acting on Sydney Smith's suggestion, and had taken off her flesh to sit in her bones.</p><P>Presently we came to a vast plain, which in the spring is rich pasture-land, but now can scarcely be recognised <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:as even sun-dried hay, so entirely does dust triumph--dust like the finest flour, flying in choking clouds, and the road only to be distinguished as a broad track of deeper dust.  No shadow anywhere, but overhead a fierce scintillating sun, blazing with sickening heat.</p><P>Then we descended by a series of frightfully steep zig-zags into the gorge of the Stanislaus river, where the sun's vertical rays seemed concentrated, for the hot air blowing in our faces was like the blast from a furnace.</p><P>At all these fearfully dangerous gradients the drivers invariably whip up their teams of five or six horses--three abreast--and tear down just as fast as they can lay foot to ground.  The roads are narrow, with only just room to pass another wheeled vehicle.  There is no parapet, not even a fence, to mark the edge, below which lies the steep descent of many hundred feet, to the dark chasm from which rises the tumultuous roar of unseen waters.  The parapet would be considered an unnecessary extravagance; it would not pay.</p><P>Round these rapid curves and dizzy ledges the six horse team and heavy coach rattles as cheerily as ever coach ran on the old Highland road--never relaxing pace save when, at some particularly dangerous spot, we encounter heavily laden waggons, drawn by six or eight pair of mules.  We met a mule-train coming up the gorge as we descended, and "you bet" I watched breathlessly while the outer wheels grazed within six inches of the precipice, and then rattled on again.</p><P>I bethought me of the Great Duke's question to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:trio of coachmen anxious to secure his situation: "How near the edge of a precipice could you venture to drive?"  "Within a foot," said the first--"Within six inches," said the second--"Faith, and I'd keep as far from it as possible!" said the successful candidate.  I felt to-day that Wellington was the Solomon for mountain drivers.</p><P>It is bad enough, even on an ordinary forest-road, to meet a waggon-train of long heavy-wheeled timber-carts, with one man to guide each team of eight or ten mules.  He generally sits on one, and guides the others with a single rein, but chiefly by voice, and addressing each by name; he puts on the drag by means of a rope which works an iron lever, and if the road is too narrow to pass, he must pull up in the bush on one side--no easy task.</p><P>Well, we dashed full tilt down this breakneck descent, the coachman working the brake with his foot, and talking to his horses in the most calm matter-of-fact way, as if the apparent danger was not worth a thought.  (They do sometimes come "an almighty smash"; and when they do so, it is something for the survivors--if there are any--to remember!)</p><P>As soon as we had climbed safely up the other side of the furnace-gorge, our driver became so overpowered with sleep, that he was quite unable to keep his eyes open: he confided to us that he had spent the two previous nights at balls, and was quite "used up."  Luckily, my fellow passenger, who was a grocer's agent, proved equal to the occasion; and putting the driver inside to sleep in peace, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:he took the ribbons, and drove right well.  Moreover, he had to keep up the pace, as we were late, and had to catch another coach at Murphy's, which is a decaying mining town like Sonora, Columbia, Dutch Flat, Copperopolis, and all their mushroom tribe.</p><P>At Murphy's we had only just time to change coaches; and then commenced a long steady pull uphill, through a forest of ever-increasing beauty, till we arrived here in a glory that excelleth.  Such a forest! of every sort of fir; sugar-pine, yellow pine, cedar, spruce, silver fir, tamarack, &amp;c., &amp;c.  They grow larger and more beautiful as we ascend.</p><P>But also, as we ascended, the air became more and more bitterly cold, till at last I was truly grateful to the coachman, who insisted on wrapping me up in his big greatcoat, declaring that nothing would induce him to wear it.  I believe he must have been half perished, and I felt thankful this morning to see him start all right on the return trip.</p><P>It was 10 P.M. ere we arrived at this cosy, clean cottage-hotel, where we were welcomed with true Californian cordiality,--fed, warmed, and comforted.</p><P>Need I tell you that the sun had not risen long before I surveyed my surroundings from the pleasant verandah? and the glimpse so obtained was an irresistible summons to go forth to nature's early service, in a grander cathedral than ever was devised by human architect!</p><P>This house stands on rising ground, in a small glade in the very heart of the most glorious forest, on the edge of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:perhaps the grandest existing grove of the Giant Sequoia.  These stand singly, or in groups, like tall towers, and the colour of their thick, soft bark is such a rich golden red, or warm sienna, that when the light falls on them, they look like pillars of fire.  These giants are scattered among thousands of other grand pines and cedars, with grey, white, red, or yellow stems, all faultlessly perpendicular, while from their drooping boughs hang long waving draperies of the loveliest bright yellow lichen, like rays of sunlight.  You may remember my describing it to you at Mariposa, where I first made acquaintance with the Big trees.  But then the forest lay deep in snow--a very different scene from this joyous summer, with all its treasures of delight.</p><P>I think I must also have told you how strange it is that most of these great monsters have only little insignificant branches near the summit.  But the lower trees throw out graceful boughs which make a cloud of soft grey-green about the red stems, and make them look quite comfortably clothed; and down about their feet grow hazel bushes covered with nuts, to the endless joy of the merry squirrels.</p><P>I found one glade in the forest, which seemed to me, above all others, suggestive of a glorious natural cathedral--the mighty stems forming long, dreamy aisles.  At one glance I could count twenty of the huge red columns, which, seen in their own gloom, against the light, are of a dark maroon colour like porphyry; while the lesser shafts of grey, red, and yellow, grouped themselves like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:pillars of many-coloured marbles, grey granite, and sienna.</p><P>And the eastern light, streaming through the silvery grey-green of the pines, or the mellow golden-green of the hazel undergrowth, became subdued, just as it is in very old churches with greenish glass.  It was altogether beautiful, and so solemn and still; not a sound to be heard, save the chirruping of insects, and a few low bird-notes--not a full chorus, but a subdued under-tone.</p><P>Now I am going off to spend a long day by myself in the glorious forest.  I only wish you could be here to enjoy it all with me.</p><P>THE "FATHER OF THE FOREST,"</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
127.sgm:, 2 <HI REND="italics">d August</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>They say that "familiarity breeds contempt," but assuredly there are exceptions where it tends to deeper reverence, and foremost amongst such rank these, monarchs of the forest.  I know that at first I could not understand them--now, day by day, I can better realise their majesty.</p><P>From the very fact that <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
127.sgm: the trees are so large, one fails to realise the magnitude of the giants.  All have increased in proportion.  It is as if, having looked at a European forest through the wrong end of your opera glasses, you suddenly turn them, and lo! you behold a Californian forest; but it requires a mental calculation to convince yourself that the transformation is something <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:quite out of the common--in short, that, like Gulliver, you have passed from Lilliput to Brobdingnag.</p><P>It is only when you come to walk in and out of hollow trees, and to circle round them, and take a constitutional by walking alongside of a fallen giant, or perhaps (if it has done duty as a chimney before it came to grief) by riding inside the hollow for a considerable distance, that you begin to understand their size.  You do so best when, standing on the ground beside a prostrate tree, half buried in a ditch of its own forming, you look up at a red wall, rising perhaps fifteen or twenty feet above your head, bulging outwards considerably, and extending in a straight line for 300 feet along the ground, and tell yourself that it is only a tree!</p><P>The owners of the forest, who carefully preserve this grove for the enjoyment of all the world, have erected tall ladders, to enable people to climb on to some of these heights, and walk along the fallen trees as if on garden terraces.  It sounds Cockney, but it is pleasant.  It is not every one who could scale these red ramparts without the aid of a ladder, and you gain a much finer view of the surrounding forest from an elevation of twenty or thirty feet; while, by clambering among the upturned roots of some deposed monarch, you may perch yourself some forty feet in the air, as I am at the present time.</p><P>I am snugly ensconced among the roots of the poor old Father of the Forest, a gigantic ruin, which perchance may have been a brave sapling in the days when "there were giants" on the young earth, and which little dreamt that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:in this nineteenth century a pale pigmy from a distant barbaric isle would be nestling among its roots, and using them as a writing-table!</p><P>By the most moderate computation, this forest-monarch must have survived the changes and chances of three thousand years!  Mr Muir made a most careful calculation of the annular rings of a fallen tree, which was sawed across at four feet from the ground.  It measured 107 feet in circumference <HI REND="italics">inside the bark</HI>
127.sgm:.  The outer part of the trunk is so very close-grained that he counted thirty annular rings to the inch.  Had this proportion been uniform throughout, it would have proved the age of the tree to be 6400 years.  The central rings were, however, about twice the width of those formed by the aged tree, so he made a very liberal allowance, and set down the probable age at 3500 years!</p><P>One of the most remarkable points connected with these huge trees, is the extraordinarily small root which forms the pedestal for so ponderous a weight,--small comparatively, with little spread, and literally no depth--merely a superficial hold on the earth's surface.</p><P>As I look on the interlacing roots which form my cedarwood bowers, and then let my eye travel along the vast stem till it loses itself in the forest, forming a broad roadway, along which (were it but level) two carriages could run with ease, it does appear a mystery passing strange how so slight a support can have enabled so huge a body to resist the wild storms of so many centuries.</p><P>It is estimated that this tree must, when perfect, have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:been about 450 feet in height!  Now its summit is decayed, but what remains is like a long mountain; and two large archways have been cut into the side of the said mountain, in order that those whose taste lies in that line may ride into the hollow trunk and come out by the farther opening.  Only think what a majestic tree this must have been, rising perpendicular for 210 feet ere throwing out one branch!  It was broken in falling, but a straight column of 300 feet in length remains, and measures eighteen feet in circumference at the point of fracture.</p><P>There are many such tree-terraces lying about the forest, and their soft red bark forms a pleasant footpath; but only those with the Cockney ladders are accessible to me!  The said bark is a most curious fibrous material, like rich sienna-coloured furniture-velvet, about eighteen inches thick.  Small blocks of it can be bought at the hotel, as memorial pin-cushions.  Happily this grove, and all that is in it, is held sacred,--so relic-worshippers are supplied from more distant trees.  From the extremely porous nature of this bark, it appears probable that it may in some measure act the part of lungs to the huge tree, which surely could scarcely find sufficient breathing-power in the scanty foliage which adorns its lofty summit.</p><P>All the Big trees of this district are concentrated in two groves,--this little forest-gem of Calaveras, and a much larger belt, known as the South Park Grove, on the Stanislaus river, about six miles from here.  I hope to find my way there to-morrow.</p><P>In this Calaveras grove all the Sequoias lie within an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:area of fifty acres, over which space altogether about a hundred lie scattered singly or in groups.  Of these, twenty attain a circumference of about 80 feet near the base, and this portly old "Father" is found to measure 110 feet round.  Of the trees now standing, five exceed 300 feet in height, and one measures 327.  About twenty-five are said to exceed 250 feet in height.  The "Mother of the Forest" is 321 feet high, and 90 feet in circumference.  Truly a portly dame!<ANCHOR ID="n15-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-11"><P>Though there is every probability that the Sequoia will maintain its supremacy as the most massive column in the world's forests, it must perforce yield the palm of altitude to the Australian Eucalyptus.  In the valley of the Watts River, in Victoria, many fallen trees have been measured as they lie on the ground, and found to exceed 350 feet in length.  One mighty giant had fallen so as to form a bridge across a deep ravine.  It had been broken in falling, but the portion which remained intact measured 435 feet in length; and as its girth at the point of fracture is nine feet, its discoverer estimated that the perfect tree must have measured fully 500 feet!  Its circumference five feet above the roots is fifty-four feet.</p><P>In the Dandenong district of Victoria an almond-leaf gum-tree ( <HI REND="italics">Eucalyptus amygdalina</HI>
127.sgm: ) has been carefully measured, and is found to be 430 feet.  It attains a height of 380 feet before throwing out a branch.  Its circumference is sixty feet.</p><P>Tasmania also produces specimens of Eucalyptus of 350 feet in height, and which rise 200 feet ere forming a branch.  One near Hobart Town is eighty-six feet in girth, and till ten years ago towered to a height of 300 feet, but is now a ruin.</p></NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>I cannot imagine that these dry figures convey anything to your mind; so I had better give you a few simple facts,--such as, that many of these hollowed trees have been used as camps by explorers.  There is one, called Pioneers' Cabin, which is 300 feet in height, and measures 90 feet round five feet above the ground.  It has been hollowed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:by fire, forming a dark cavern, in which fifty persons can find sitting room!  Some have been used for stabling horses; and there is one, called "Burnt Tree," which lies prostrate on the ground, and measures 330 feet.  It was so hollowed by fire that it became a mere chimney, and now those who fancy going through charcoal tunnels can ride in at one opening and out at another, a distance of sixty feet!</p><P>Soon after this grove was discovered, some Goths determined to make known its glories by distributing sections of wood and of bark to various parts of the world.  To this end, one of the noblest trees was felled,--an operation which kept five men hard at work for twenty-two days, boring through the tree with pump-augers.  Even after the poor giant had been sawn in two, it refused to fall, and its murderers had to work for three days more, driving in wedges on one side, till they succeeded in tilting it over; and great was the fall of it.  Then they smoothed the poor stump, at six feet above the ground, removed its bark, and built a pavilion over it, in which a party of thirty-two persons found room to dance,--not a savage war-dance over the mighty, conquered monarch, but commonplace quadrilles, with attendant musicians and spectators, all crowded into this novel ball-room.  Its diameter is twenty-four feet, and its age, reckoned by the rings of annual growth, is found to be about 1300 years.</p><P>More barbarous still was the fate reserved for the venerable Mother of the Forest, which is the tallest tree in the grove--327 feet in height, and which attains to 137 feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:before throwing out a branch.  She was sacrilegiously stripped of her warm plush coat (Sequoia bark is really very like coarse furniture-velvet, and, moreover, is about eighteen inches thick).  To the height of 116 feet from the base, the bark was removed in sections, each duly numbered, in order to be rebuilt and exhibited in various places.  Unbelieving sight-seers supposed the huge erection to be a fraud, made up of many trees.  Finally, it was taken to the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, where it was unfortunately destroyed in the great fire.  Strange to say, though the poor tree was thus ruthlessly dealt with in the year 1854, she is still alive, though naked and miserable.  I can see her from where I now sit--a ghastly object--her sides still transfixed with wooden implements of torture,--the St Sebastian of the forest.  So I look in the opposite direction, where, on either hand, tower magnificent groups, like stately obelisks of burnished sienna, with leafy background of green and gold, fading away in dream-like forest-glades, through which the breeze floats fitfully, with low faint moaning.</p><P>I spoke unadvisedly in calling these huge stems "obelisks."  They are true columns--fluted columns, for the bark is deeply grooved with long vertical indentations, which produce just the effect of fluting.  These majestic columns rise 200 feet ere throwing out a branch, and then only small stems, which support a leafy capital.</p><P>If you had ever seen the Kootub Minar--the colossal red sandstone minaret in Old Delhi--I could best compare them to it; for not only has it just such flutings as these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:trees, but it also expands considerably towards the base.  So do these tall minarets--in fact, they are almost shaped like a funnel at the base; hence the very varied measurements given by different writers, some taking the circumference at their own height from the ground, while others measure scientifically at a height of twelve or fifteen feet, from which height upwards the diminution is imperceptible.</p><P>There is one little detail which savours unpleasantly of Cockneyism--namely, that every Sequoia in this grove has received a distinctive name, which in some cases is engraved on a granite tablet, and inserted in the bark.  I do not dislike such names as "Pride of the Forest," "The Beauty of the Forest," "The Knight of the Forest," "Queen, and her Maids of Honour"; nor do "Hercules," "The Twins," "The Hermit," "The Fallen Monarch," or "Mother and Son," sound amiss.  There is something characteristic in such names as "The Granite State," "Old Republican," "Old Dominion," "Brother Jonathan."</p><P>No one can grudge the dedication of a special tree to "Old Dowd," the discoverer of the grove, who was supposed to be telling such "tall" stories, that he had to invent a real "tall" grizzly bear before he could induce his comrades to accompany him to Calaveras.  Every one must acknowledge that "George Washington" is well named, and possibly the ever-green memory of some great naturalists is happily commemorated.  But why every tree must be alike nicknamed in honour of minor mortals of exceedingly varied merit is a mystery to the mere lover of beautiful nature.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>One tree is happily dedicated to William Cullen Bryant, whose words are inscribed on a marble tablet-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"THE GROVES WERE GOD'S FIRST TEMPLE."<LB></HI>
127.sgm:</p><P>One of the loveliest groups is known as "The Three Graces"; they seem to spring from one root, and tapering symmetrically upward, tower side by side to a height of 290 feet, their united circumference being about 95 feet.  The "Two Guardsmen" are each 300 feet in height, and respectively 65 and 70 feet in circumference.  These stand sentinel at the entrance to this wonderful forest.</p><P>But there is no use in attempting to paint such a place in words.  All the thousand details that go to make it a scene of enchantment are indescribable.  You must imagine for yourself the drowsy hum of bees and other insects, the flash of blue jays, an occasional glimpse of a humming-bird, hovering for a few seconds, then vanishing, or a flight of butterflies, a heavy-winged moth, the aromatic fragrance of pine and cypress and cedar, all mingling <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Like sweet thoughts in a dream,"<LB></HI>
127.sgm:</p><P>and imparting a soothing sense of calm content, which makes mere existence a joy.  I am sure the very breath of these resinous pine-forests is balmy and health-giving, and I do not wonder that your favourite fir-tree oil is credited with such wondrous powers of healing.<ANCHOR ID="n15-12">*</ANCHOR>
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127.sgm:<P>I certainly enjoy this existence to the full, generally breakfasting at daybreak, and then starting for the day, carrying luncheon and a bottle of rich creamy milk, which I hide in some lovely nook, to which I can find my way back at my leisure, and meanwhile go off exploring--not, however, without keeping my eyes open, for there are a good many rattlesnakes about, and I have "happened" on several, especially one which was curled up under this very tree, in a hollow, where I often hide my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:drawing-blocks.  I can tell you I slipped them in quick and went off, leaving the snake on guard.  He was faithless to his charge, however, for when I came back next morning he was gone.</p><P>My only noisty companions are the woodpeckers,<ANCHOR ID="n15-13">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: who, with their hard, sharp beak, drill deep holes all over the pine-trees; sometimes there are so many of them, all tap, tap, tapping, that you would think there must surely be carpenters working in the forest.  I have seen trees with hundreds of holes in them, pierced to the depth of a couple of inches, till they are literally like a honeycomb--each hole bored as neatly as if it had been made by a joiner's auger.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-13"><HI REND="italics">Melanerpes formicivorus</HI>
127.sgm:<P>As fast as they are made, the woodpeckers and their partners, the blue jays, carefully deposit an acorn in each hole as their winter store, always with the point turned inwards, and the flat base just closes the opening.  The careful woodpecker always selects one which exactly fits the hole, while the less tidy blue jay drops in the first he finds, whether it fits or not.  Some of these acorns breed worms and some do not; so then the two birds divide the store, the woodpeckers eating the worms, while their friends get the sound acorns.  Here you have a true cooperative society in the forest.</p><P>One day, while I was sitting quite still, a pair of woodpeckers came and hunted a dead tree beside me.  First, Mrs Woodpecker walked up, closely followed by her husband (with his dandy scarlet cap).  She went on very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:quickly, tapping the bark, where I could see nothing.  But every minute she pulled out a fat white maggot, of which she swallowed half, and gave her husband half, like a dutiful wife.  Then, when she was tired, he went first, and shared his bag with her in the same way.</p><P>This maggot is another creature which bores holes in timber, but which seems never to attack healthy trees, or, indeed, living trees.  But so soon as one falls, or begins to decay, or is half burnt by a forest fire, then the pinborer<ANCHOR ID="n15-14">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: finds it out, and lays its eggs beneath the bark.  It is an ugly grub about two inches long, and a quarter of an inch thick, with a proboscis very like an auger--a capital tool which never seems to get blunt, for with it this diligent workman bores its way right through any large timber.  If you listen attentively as you sit near some great fallen tree, you can distinctly hear him mining and tunnelling in the heart of the wood.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-14"><HI REND="italics">Pissodes strobi</HI>
127.sgm:<P>Here he is left to work undisturbed; for luckily, though this beautiful forest has not been reserved as national property, it is most carefully preserved by men who appreciate its unique beauty, and will never suffer these grand trees to be cut down to make railway sleepers or to build log-huts.  But in districts where trees are only valued as so much timber, and good logs and planks are worth so many dollars, there this little grub is a very serious enemy; and so, as soon as a tree is blown over or half burnt, if the lumberers consider it worth saving, they take care to strip off its bark before the spring, that their enemy may be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:deprived of this nice dry nest wherein to deposit the eggs, which would so quickly produce a large able-bodied family of destructive borers.</p><P>Here, as usual, my merriest friends are the mischievous little squirrels, always full of fun and frolic, busily nibbling pine-cones, or nutting in the hazel thickets.  The whole country swarms with them.  There are various grey squirrels, but my especial companions are the chipmunks--such jolly little beasts!  On the highest points of the bleak, cold granite mountains, they whisk about, apparently quite as happy as their cousins in these beautiful forests.  They are the sauciest little things imaginable.</p><P>Yesterday a couple came close to me as I was sketching under a big tree.  I sat very still, for fear of frightening them; but I need not have taken that precaution, for they did not mind me a bit.  In fact they were very angry at my staying there, and one of them sat on the side of the tree chattering at me, whistling and dancing, till I got tired of its noise, and threw a cone at it.  It merely dodged round the tree and fetched its wife, and then the two together sat and scolded me furiously.  They made such a noise that it became very tiresome indeed, so I threw several cones at them; but they were always too quick for me, and I had to put up with their chatter for more than an hour, after which they got tired and went away--much to my satisfaction.</p><P>Seriously (and not without good cause) as our British foresters object to the mischief done by squirrels in nibbling and breaking off the young shoots of growing timber, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:it cannot be denied that they are useful helpers as nurserymen, and constantly practise Sir Walter Scott's great maxim, "Aye be stickin' in a tree."</p><P>For they are most provident little people, and, while enjoying their full share of good things in the present, do not fail to lay up abundant stores for wintry days.  They establish subterranean granaries, in which they conceal all manner of nuts and seeds; and as they are always busy either eating or storing, they contrive in the course of the autumn to conceal ten times more material than they ever require.</p><P>So these carefully buried seeds spring up, and become the nurslings of the forest.  Or, in the open country, they grow up singly, where they have room to expand; and there is no doubt that many of the noblest trees which give beauty to the land owe owe existence to the provident instincts of these wise little folk.<ANCHOR ID="n15-15">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-15">Squirrels are not nature's only good nurserymen.  Rooks are equally useful, from their habit of burying both fir-cones and acorns for future use.  An authentic instance of this is mentioned in a `Natural History of Westmoreland and Cumberland,' published in 1709, in which the author, Mr Robinson, tells how he watched "a flock of crows" planting acorns; and how, a quarter of a century later, he found that these acorns had produced a grove of oaks, tall enough for crows to build in.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Well would it be for California if her human inhabitants would give some heed to the future of her timber, instead of so ruthlessly destroying it to meet the requirements of the moment.  One of the trees which suffers most severly at their hands is the noble chestnut-oak, the bark of which is found to be admirably adapted for tanning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:leather.  So the beautiful growth of centuries is sacrificed to the manufacture of boots and saddles, and whole districts are denuded of their fine old trees, which are cut down wholesale, solely for the sake of their bark, which is peeled off, and the poor stripped trunks (which truly have fallen among thieves) are left lying on the ground to rot.  Already the havoc done has been so great as to forebode the total destruction of one of the handsomest indigenous trees.</p><P>To-day an Indian boy offered me for sale some beautiful specimens of the strange nest of the tarantula spider,--or rather, of the trap-door spider, which is so called in this country.  It is a wonderfully ingenious architect, and displays amazing skill and patience in contriving and constructing its home, which, in truth, is a fortress, with a strong door to keep out all besiegers.</p><P>The nest is a little well of clay, sunk in some earthy bank, just large enough to admit an average-sized human thumb.  The interior is smoothly polished, but the tarantula is not content with bare plastered walls.  She is a diligent worker, ever weaving dainty fabrics; so she lines her home with a double curtain,--a hanging of coarse spider-cloth next the wall, and over that a rich white satin material, smooth and glossy.</p><P>The well-like nest is almost invariably tunnelled into the side of a sloping bank.  It is closed by a circular door, fastened at the upper side by a most ingenious hinge.  It opens outward, so that when the spider goes out the door falls into its place and closes of its own accord, fitting so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:closely into the rim of the nest, and covering it so neatly, that no foe would ever notice the little disc in the earthen bank, which is the only trace of the tarantula's home.  But, to make assurance doubly sure, the wary spider provides means to secure it on the inside.  At the side farthest from the hinge it leaves several small holes in the disc, and by clinging to these with its claws, it keeps the door tightly closed from the inside, so that no enemy can enter.</p><P>The door is in itself a marvellous contrivance, and a monument of patient ingenuity.  Though barely the eighth of an inch in thickness, it is composed of thirty triple layers, each consisting of a coating of clay, lined with two ply of spider-cloth similar to the tapestry within the nest.  These ninety layers are all fastened together, making a solid door, which is largest on the outside, and fits into a groove, so that it closes quite tight.  I suppose sufficient air for breathing purposes comes in at the keyholes.</p><P>The enemy against which this spider defends itself so securely is a yellow-winged dragon-fly, which darts upon the spider, stabs and devours it, and even endeavours to scratch open the closed door behind which its prey has retreated.</p><P>I have seen very few Indians in this part of the country, but there are several parties of white campers, who have come up from the dusty plains to lay in stores of health, and who seem to be thoroughly enjoying their gipsy lives.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>THE FORESTS OF THE SIERRAS--PINUS LAMBERTIANA--ABIES WILLIAMSONII, ABIES DOUGLASII--PICEA AMABILIS, PICEA GRANDIS--PINUS MONTICOLA, PINUS PONDEROSA, PINUS CONTORTA, PINUS TUBERCULATA.</p><P>IT strikes me that, while I have told you a good deal about Sequoias, I have never said a word about all the other noble and beautiful pines, firs, spruces, and cedars which compose nineteen-twentieths of these glorious forests, and which, each by turn, so fascinate me, that I never can decide which is most majestic.</p><P>They were beautiful in the early spring, when tipped with light-green shoots; and some, such as the Silver Spruce, were powdered over with a bluish bloom.  But they are more beautiful now, when bending beneath the weight of their wealth of ripening cones,--of all sizes, from the little round cedar-cone to the splendid cone of the sugar-pine.<ANCHOR ID="n16-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-11"><HI REND="italics">Pinus Lambertiana</HI>
127.sgm:<P>The stately Sugar-Pine, true queen of the Sierras!  Whatever claims to masculine grandeur any other trees may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:possess, she at least stands unrivalled in grace and loveliness.  I never see one of these tall, smooth, tapering shafts,--reaching up to the blue heaven, and thence outstretching its crown of long, slender branches--clothed in tender green, and expanding in faultless symmetrical curves,--without receiving the same sort of impression as (alas, how rarely!) is derived from the presence of a gracious and lovely woman.</p><P>Even the youngest sugar-pines are things of beauty--fair daughters of a noble house--and full of the promise of ever-increasing loveliness, when (after a strictly well-regulated youth of some sixty years, during which they adhere to the conventional forms of graceful, lady-like young sugar-pines) they may begin to strike out an independent line of their own, and in the course of three or four hundred years, when they have attained a height of about two hundred feet, and a girth of from eighteen to twenty feet, may boldly venture to throw out free irregular branches forty or fifty feet in length, sweeping in most graceful curves, and rarely dividing into secondary boughs unless just at the extreme tip, where perhaps a delicate branchlet may diverge from the main arm.</p><P>Each branch is fringed with tassels of long fine needles; and from the tips of these slender pensile boughs hang the most beautiful cones that exist in the whole pine kingdom,--cones which are rarely less than fifteen, and often grow to eighteen inches in length, averaging nine inches in circumference.  They act as weights to draw down the tips of the branches.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>As the cones attain maturity, their delicate green changes to a rich purply hue, and then to a golden brown, which becomes yellowish as the opening scales reveal their inner sides; and long after the winge&die;d seeds have flown from their snug niches in the core, these rich golden cones still cling to the boughs, and mingle their mellow colouring with the green crop of the following year.  But the sweet sunlit grass is all strewn with the great yellow cones which in former years have dropped to the ground, but seem in no hurry to decay.</p><P>They ripen in September, when the seeds are carefully collected by men, who have found them to be a profitable article of trade, for the pine-growers of distant lands.  But the pine-growers of Britain are unable to supply the altitude most dear to the sugar-pine, ranging from 3000 to 7000 feet; and moreover, many a generation will come and go ere artificially reared trees can hope to approach the natural beauty of these free children of the mountains, some of which (with a circumference of about thirty-five feet) are supposed to have already braved six hundred winters, yet show no symptom of decay, nor any reason why they should not survive six hundred more, if only they can escape the ruthless saw of the lumberer, or the still more cruel axe of the shingle-splitter.</p><P>Unfortunately, the wood splits so readily that it finds especial favour with these men, to whom a tree represents only so many cubic feet of timber; and so the loveliest creation of nature are hewn down, solely to be reduced to shingles for building and roofing the most abject of huts.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:But where this sad fate has been averted, the majestic tree still reigns supreme,--a queen without a rival.</p><P>Its warm brown stem is generally studded with golden lichen, which also hangs in long beard-like fringes from every bough.  And not only do the pine-needles fill the air with resiny fragrance, but the wood itself has a pleasant smell,--chiefly perceptible, alas! when the wood-cutter has sealed its doom.</p><P>The generous tree not only perfumes the clothes of the destroyer, but also gives him delicious white sugar, which, by many persons, is preferred to that of the sugar-maple.  Wherever the tree is wounded, either by fire or axe, there the sweet sap exudes, like the gum on our own cherry-trees.  Though naturally white, it so often flows from a wound charred by fire, that it is apt to assume a rich golden colour, like barley-sugar.  Though pleasant to the taste, it cannot be eaten with impunity by all persons, being somewhat medicinal in its effects.  It is curious that the bears, which have so keen a talent for scenting out honey and other sweet things, seem to avoid this natural sugar by instinct, and are never known to touch it; but it is said to be useful as a cough-lozenge, and a remedy in lung disease.</p><P>Next in beauty to the sugar-pine, I think I must rank the Williamson Spruce.<ANCHOR ID="n16-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: Indeed, Mr John Muir, whose loving reverence for the Sierras, and intimate acquaintance with every tree that grows here, entitles him to a strong vote, gives it the place of honour above all others.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:considers it more delicate in its beauty and more enduring in its strength than any of its graceful kindred--in short, he declares it to be the very loveliest tree in the forests.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-12"><HI REND="italics">Abies Williamsonii</HI>
127.sgm:<P>It is not so luxuriant in growth as many others--rarely, if ever, exceeding a hundred feet in height, and from four to five feet in diameter.  Yet while it possesses all the elegance and delicate curves of the sugar-pine, it has strength to withstand the rudest storms, and grows best on frosty northern slopes, at an altitude of 6000 to 8000 feet, where the snow lies so deep in winter as altogether to bury it.  For so gently does this yielding tree droop beneath the gradually increasing weight of snow, that not only the boughs, but even the slender main stem bends like a reed, till it forms a perfect arch; and as the snow falls deeper and deeper, the whole grove is literally buried--not an indication of a tree-top is to be seen.</p><P>Thus sheltered from the wintry blasts, this graceful spruce lies hidden till the return of warm spring melts the frozen snows, and the long-prisoned boughs, elastic as before, spring back to their accustomed position, and the beautiful tree reappears as fresh and green as ever, having thus survived the long winter without the loss of one slender branchlet or one drooping cone.  Its cones are small, not more than two inches in length, and of a purple colour.</p><P>Large groves of the Williamsonii are found on all the higher ranges, and Mr Muir tells of lovely groups which have rejoiced him while exploring the sources of the main <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:streams of the Sierras--the Merced, the San Joaquin, and the Tuolumne rivers.</p><P>Very beautiful, too, is the Douglas Spruce,<ANCHOR ID="n16-13">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: which, like the sugar-pine, attains a height of 200 feet, and a circumference of from 20 to 25 feet.  It looked its best in the early summer, when each spray was edged with a fringe of lovely fresh yellow-green needles, seeming as if the sunlight were flickering among its branches.  There are some beautiful specimens of this spruce in the Yo&macr;-semite&acute;.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-13"><HI REND="italics">Abies Douglasii</HI>
127.sgm:<P>Two of the loveliest trees of the Sierras are those silver firs which botanists distinguish as the "Lovely" and the "Grand,"<ANCHOR ID="n16-2">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: but which, to the Californians, are simply Red Fir and White Fir, from the general colouring of their stem.  Both species grow to a height of about 200 feet, in tall, beautifully tapering spires.  Some even overtop their fellows by an additional 40 or 50 feet, and the stems attain to a circumference of from 15 to 20 feet.  The white fir bears greyish cones about four inches in length, which it carries upright; whereas those of the red fir are of a bronzed-purple tint.  They are about six inches in length, and adorn the upper and under side of the boughs with equal impartiality.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-2"><HI REND="italics">Picea amabilis</HI>
127.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Picea grandis</HI>
127.sgm:<P>The average lifetime of these noble trees is estimated at from two hundred to two hundred and fifty years.  Wherever they find a desirable situation and suitable soil on ancient moraines, there they flourish, forming lovely groves even at a height of 7000 or 8000 feet above the sea.</p><P>These, however, are but as it were children among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:trees of the Sierras, some of which, such as the Mountain Pine,<ANCHOR ID="n16-14">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: weather a thousand years, and attain their greatest perfection at an elevation of 10,000 feet.  More beautiful, and quite as hardy as the mountain pine, is the Yellow Pine, which is also called the Silver Pine,<ANCHOR ID="n16-15">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: and which is the Mark Tapley of the Sierras.  No matter how bare the rock-ledge, or how unsheltered the spot, on the bleakest crags, 8000 feet above the sea, it contrives to exist, and rears a brave evergreen head: though dwarfed and stunted, it is always eminently picturesque, throwing out gnarled and twisted boughs.  Through long centuries these muchenduring trees have done ceaseless battle with adverse circumstances, struggling with the ungenial rock for a niggardly subsistence, and battered by the winds and tempests.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-14"><HI REND="italics">Pinus monticolo</HI>
127.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-15"><HI REND="italics">Pinus ponderosa</HI>
127.sgm:<P>But while bravely making the best of difficulties, no tree more fully appreciates the good things of life, as shown by its luxuriant growth when living a cheery family life with its brethren in the forests, on good nutritious soil, and in an equable climate.  Under these favourable circumstances it becomes almost as majestic as the Williamsonii or the Lambertiana.  It covers a very large range of elevation, extending over plains considerably less than 2000 feet above the sea; but its favourite homes are in such sheltered valleys as the Yo&macr;-semite&acute;, where it is seen in perfection.</p><P>It receives its name of silver pine because of the silvery gleam of its glossy needles, on which the sunbeams play <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:in ten thousand shimmering points of light.  Yet the name of yellow pine is more truly descriptive of the tree, whose needles are actually of a warm golden green, and its bark a reddish yellow.  The latter is several inches thick, and is laid on in scales like armour.  It is generally pierced by innumerable holes, drilled by the diligent woodpecker as store-houses for his winter supply of acorns.  Its purplish-green cones are about four inches long, and grow in clusters among tassels of long, firm needles, each six or eight inches in length.</p><P>A full-grown Yellow Pine averages 200 feet in height and 18 in circumference, occasionally attaining to 25 feet in girth.  It shoots heavenward as straight as a mast, and is, alas! greatly prized by the lumberers.  Wherever a yellow pine stands alone on good soil, and with room to expand, its boughs feather down to the ground most gracefully; but, in general, the lower part of the stem is bare, and only the upper half forms a green spire.</p><P>One marked difference between this beautiful tree and the lovely Sugar-Pine is, that whereas the graceful branches of the latter sweep in undivided lines for thirty or forty feet, each bough of the yellow pine is divided and subdivided over and over again, forming a bushy tree.</p><P>To me the most uninteresting tree of the forest is the Tamarack Pine,<ANCHOR ID="n16-16">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: sometimes called the two-leaved pine, from the peculiar growth of its needles, which are set in long tassels, bearing clusters of small cones, which in the spring-time are of a rich crimson hue--an ornamental <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:feature, which, however, does not compensate for the sparseness of the foliage.  It is a small pine compared with its neighbours, full-grown trees averaging fifty feet in height, and seven feet in circumference.  Each tree is a slim, tapering spire, and a large grove affords little or no variety of form; only where the trees grow close together in sheltered hollows, they assume an exceedingly slender character.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-16"><HI REND="italics">Pinus contorta</HI>
127.sgm:<P>The Tamarack overspreads large districts in the higher ranges, flourishing at a height of 9000 feet.  Its presence appears to be favourable to the growth of succulent grasses, and the tamarack groves are dear to the shepherd, who therein finds the sweetest pastures for his flocks.  They have the disadvantage, however, of being exceedingly liable to be swept by forest-fires, owing to the large quantity of resin which drips all over the bark; so that when, in the seasons of drought, a chance spark falls among the sun-dried cones and needles, and so runs along the ground to the foot of one of these resin-sprinkled trees, it straightway ignites, and in a moment the column of flame rushes up, only pausing, however, to consume the sap.  For a few short seconds the beautiful pyramid of rose-tinted flame envelops the tree, then fades away, and passes on to enfold another and yet another in its deadly embrace; for though the fire runs on so swiftly that the trees are scarcely charred and not a twig burnt, they die all the same, and after a while their bark peels off, and the poor naked, bleached trees remain standing intact,--a weird, ghostly forest.  In course of years the boughs drop <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:off, and wind and storm gradually complete the work of destruction.</p><P>More provident with regard to fires is the little Hickory Pine,<ANCHOR ID="n16-17">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: so called by the miners on account of the hardness and white colour of its wood.  It is only found in certain localities on the lower hills, at an elevation of less than 3000 feet.  It is a graceful little tree, rarely exceeding forty feet in height and one foot in diameter.  Its branches are curved and slender, and its grey needles grow so sparsely as to cast little shadow.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-17"><HI REND="italics">Pinus tuberculata</HI>
127.sgm:<P>Its peculiarity lies in the fact that its hard, glossy cones--or burs, as they are here called--grow in circles right up the main trunk and along the principal branches, instead of clustering on the lesser boughs.  Stranger still is the fact that these cones never drop off till the tree dies, but adhere to the parent stem, accumulating an ever-increasing store of ripe seed.</p><P>Consequently, no young trees are ever found near a flourishing grove.  Mr John Muir, who is an excellent authority on all these matters, has observed that wherever this strange pine exists, all the trees in a grove are of the same age, which he attributes to the fact that, as they invariably grow on dry hillsides clothed with inflammable scrub, which is liable to be swept by fire, the groves are periodically burnt, and with them all the cones borne by these trees throughout the whole course of their existence.  Multitudes of these are merely charred, and the action of heat only bursts the hard scales, and leaves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the seed free to sprout so soon as the ground cools and the rains moisten the soil.  Thus, ph&oelig;nix-like, a new forest springs into being so soon as the parent trees have been consumed.</p><P>These are some of the principal trees in the forests of the Sierras.  I have spoken of others in writing from Yo&macr;-semite&acute;.<ANCHOR ID="n16-18">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-18">In chapter iv. I had occasion to refer to the incense-cedar, <HI REND="italics">Libocedrus decurrens</HI>
127.sgm:; in chapter vii. to the nut-bearing pines, <HI REND="italics">Pinus Sabiniana</HI>
127.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Pinus Fremontiana</HI>
127.sgm:; and in chapter ix. to <HI REND="italics">Pinus Jeffreyi, Pinus Douglasii</HI>
127.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Juniperus occidentalis</HI>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>IN THE SOUTH GROVE--GIANT TREES--HAPPY HUNTING-GROUNDS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA--MURPHY'S--VIGILANCE COMMITTEES--BILL FOSDICK'S FAILING.</p><P>CALAVERAS, <HI REND="italics">July</HI>
127.sgm: 3 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>I HAVE just returned from an enchanting expedition to the great South Grove, which lies along the Stanislaus river and the Beaver Creek, about six miles from here.  It is the largest Big Tree colony which has yet been discovered, 1300 Sequoias of over one foot in diameter having been counted in a belt of forest about three miles in length, by two in width.</p><P>I found here two American girls, who had come alone, about 3000 miles, from Boston and Detroit, to see the lions of California; so we agreed to ride over together, escorted by "Mike," a Franco-German guide.  We followed a beautiful but very steep trail, up high ridges and down into deep gorges, commanding ever-varying views, and at every turn we became more and more deeply impressed with the indescribable grandeur of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:glorious coniferous forests--the vast, beautiful wilderness, where rarely a human ear catches the murmur of the lullabies which winds and rushing river sing ceaselessly to the mountains and pine-forests.</p><P>Tall green spires crown every ridge, and rise in clusters from the lower levels: grand trees of larch-like growth, middle-aged, hoary, dead; some lightning-stricken, standing ghastly and bleached--some lying prostrate, half buried in moss, and veiled by a rich undergrowth of aspen, dwarf spruce, and cotton-wood.</p><P>We rode past tall sugar-pines, so exquisite in their elegance that I could have lingered beside them for hours; but of course the one aim and object of our pilgrimage was to visit the biggest trees, and we certainly have seen giants!  We all rode into one hollow tree (a burnt hollow, as usual) in which there is room for seventeen horsemen to take refuge with their beasts.  I sketched another which measures 120 feet in circumference.  If you will take the trouble to measure a string of that length, and peg out a circle on the lawn, it will give you some notion of how large a very old Sequoia really is.  (There is one about fifteen feet larger than this in Southern California!)</p><P>Several of the grandest trees have been blown over--not recently, but in some terrific tempest long ages ago.  One of these is called Goliath.  In falling, it sank into the earth for a depth of fully four feet; and yet, as I rode alongside of it, though I was on a very tall horse, my head did not reach half-way up the side of the stem.  Some one measured it about 150 feet from the root, and found it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:45 feet round even there.  So he could have cut out a sound block of wellnigh imperishable wood 15 feet square by 150 feet long!  Only think how many centuries it must have taken to grow!</p><P>We remarked, with much wonder, how very few young Sequoias seem to be growing up; and I am told that throughout the northern forests the same thing has been observed, and that many of the old trees are childless.  It is almost feared that in these groves the species is doomed to extinction.</p><P>In the southern belts, however, the young trees grow heartily everywhere, multitudes of seedlings and saplings springing up alike in rich moist meadows and on rocky ledges and moraines.  So there, the danger of extinction lies not in natural causes, but in the ravages of the sheep-feeders and lumberers, who not only cut the young timber, but, when clearing the ground for fresh operations, burn the refuse, and so destroy thousands of seedlings.</p><P>If less gem-like in its compactness, the South Grove is certainly more free from trace of man's marring hand than beautiful Calaveras, and possesses the undoubted charm of being a comparatively untrodden portion of the great primeval forest.  Doubtless a solitary wanderer might here run a fair chance of falling in with bears and deer; but I need scarcely say that our wary fellow-creatures gave us no chance of seeing them to-day.</p><P>In this South Grove the hazel grows even more abundantly than at Calaveras, and we gathered quantities of nuts without even dismounting.  There are also a great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:many wild gooseberries, which are pleasant to the taste; but each berry is so covered with sharp prickles that you cannot bite it, but must cut it open with a knife.  I am glad that our domestic gooseberry requires no such manipulation!</p><P>Our homeward ride was, if possible, more lovely than the morning, the tender dreamy lights of evening blending all harsh tones of earth in one soft haze, throwing a velvety richness over the forests, and combining all shades of russet and gold, green, grey, and purple,--a world of rich colouring, all subdued and glorified.</p><P>There goes the bell for tea!  No unwelcome sound, I assure you!</p><P>I forgot to tell you that we saw an unusually large rattlesnake.  Mike made for him, but the wily snake escaped.</p><P>A gentleman from the Eastern States arrived here yesterday, and has been giving me a glowing description of his travels in Southern California, which has impressed him as a sort of earthly Paradise.  And no wonder, for he left his home in New England in the bleakest February weather, and ten days later he was riding over wide plains already aglow with spring blossoms; and in the month of March he was camping out in the south of the magnificent San Joaquin valley, gorgeous with all hues of the rainbow.  On every side he beheld vast prairies, literally ablaze with colour; the various flowers, not scattered as in European fields, but massed, so that one colour predominates, producing broad belts of blue or crimson, scarlet or gold, each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:extending for perhaps a square mile, like a succession of vast flower-beds scattered over an interminable lawn of the loveliest green, which is produced by the <HI REND="italics">alfilleria</HI>
127.sgm:, the native grass of California.</p><P>Far as the eye could reach, this gorgeous carpet lay out-spread, fading in the dim distance as it crept up the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, or the Coast Range, which, encompassing the great valley on the right hand and on the left, meet at its southern extremity, where the foliage is richest, and the magnificent ilex and other oaks, lie grouped as in a stately English park.</p><P>As yet the settlers in this natural Paradise are few in number, and many shy wild creatures still roam here almost undisturbed.  My new acquaintance told me of his delight when, after riding for days through the fragrant flower-strewn pastures (always knee-deep, and often reaching to his saddle), he found himself on the reedy shores of the great Tulare lake, which was literally alive with wild-fowl of various sorts,--canvas-back ducks and snipe by the hundred, and wild geese innumerable.  Of the latter, he saw one flock so vast that as they flew they seemed to cover the heavens; the rustling sound of their wings was like the rushing of a wild stormy wind, and their cries were deafening.  As they settled down, flapping their white and grey wings in the sunlight, it seemed as if the blue lake were breaking in white foam for a distance of a couple of miles.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">tules</HI>
127.sgm: or reeds, from which the lake takes its name, form a capital covert for herds of wild hogs, descendants of tame breeds, but now offering fair sport.  His account <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:agrees exactly with what other men have told me of that district, except that those who arrived later in the season found that the flowery prairie was transformed into a dusty plain, with all vegetation dried up and withered,--a parched and thirsty land.  But in spring-time it must be a glorious country for sportsmen and camping-parties, being as yet very thinly peopled.</p><P>It has the advantage of a perfect climate; for though the south of San Joaquin valley is hot, it is a dry heat, from which people suffer far less than from an average summer in the Eastern States.  The thermometer does sometimes rise to 100&deg; in the shade, but is found less oppressive than 90&deg; on the east coast; and the nights are always cool.  It seems a good proof of a healthy climate to hear how robust and rosy all the resident women and children appear to be.</p><P>The annual supply of rain is bound to fall between November and April, and during all the rest of the year a shower is a rare and rather startling event; so there is no fear of chill or cold, and little camping-gear is required.  With dry turf for a mattress, and a wide-spreading oak for a canopy, a pair of blankets and a quilt may suffice for bedding.  A camping-party would of course ride, and take a waggon to carry their quilts and necessary supplies.</p><P>By the latter half of March they would find the country in its spring beauty, and the air balmy and exhilarating.  Excellent fishing and shooting, free to all comers, without money and without price, are to be had on the Kern river, and also till quite recently on the Buena Vista and Kern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:lakes, where large trout were abundant; and quantities of snipe, duck, cranes, wild swans, and all manner of wild-fowl and other creatures, were wont to breed on the reedy shores where beaver and otter lived undisturbed.  But the diligent settlers have worked their irrigation and drainage works so vigorously, that both these lakes, with the marshes surrounding them, have been dried up, and the shy, man-fearing creatures have had to seek more remote hiding-places.</p><P>Even the great Tulare lake itself is in danger of being gradually absorbed by the numerous canals and ditches with which the whole country is now being intersected; and as water is the chief boon to be desired by all the colonists, the very existence of the lake is threatened, and the peace of its denizens is already wellnigh at an end.</p><P>The poor lakes have simply been left to starve--the rivers, whose surplus waters hitherto fed them, having now been bridled and led away in ditches and canals to feed the great wheat-fields.</p><P>So it is to the hills, rather than to the low ground, that the sportsman must now betake him.  The scenery is beautiful, including rivers and wooded foot-hills stretching back to the highest Sierras.  The vast tract of foot-hills extending from Visalia on the Tulare river, to the head-waters of the Kern river (that is to say, the region where the Sierras and the Coast Range meet, enclosing the head of the great San Joaquin valley), is clothed with glorious forest, haunted by all manner of beasts,--deer and antelope, cinnamon and grizzly bears, wild-cat and fox, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:California lion or puma; the latter a cowardly (or sensible?) beast, which knows discretion to be the better part of valour, and so takes refuge in trees, though it really is very powerful, and quite able to damage an assailant.  Altogether, there is ample material for a very pretty mixed bag.</p><P>This tract of forest is said to extend for about 150 miles, having a general width of about 10 miles.  It includes the finest belt yet known of the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
127.sgm:, scattered over the ridges which divide the Kaweah and King's rivers and their tributaries, the largest trees being generally found in the valleys where the soil is moist, and at a general elevation of from 6000 to 7000 feet above the sea-level.</p><P>The largest Sequoia that has yet been discovered is on King's river, about forty miles from Visalia.  It is forty-four feet in diameter-- <HI REND="italics">one hundred and thirty-two feet in circumference</HI>
127.sgm:!  Wouldn't an English forester open his eyes pretty wide at such a giant as this!  Happily for all lovers of the beautiful, the owners of saw-mills find that they cannot well "handle" these monarchs--they are not "convenient" either to saw down or to cut up; so, although the young ones are ruthlessly destroyed (I ought to say utilised for timber), the Big Trees are mercifully spared.  Long may they live!</p><P>Some years ago the Californian Government enacted a law forbidding the cutting down of trees over sixteen feet in diameter; but as no penalty attaches to burning these, or to cutting all lesser ones, the law is practically <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:worthless, and ruthless lumberers still set up their saw-mills on the edge of the Sequoia belt, and convert all they can into timber.  Only a few months ago five saw-mills reckoned that, in the previous season, they had cut over two million feet of Big Tree "lumber."  If such devastation is allowed to go on unchecked, the extermination of the species will follow pretty close on its discovery, and soon the glory of the primeval forest will be little more than a memory.</p><P>Other Big Tree groves have been discovered on the Tule river in the same district, which seems to have been the favoured home of the Gigantea.  Not only are the biggest trees found thereabouts, but also the tallest mountains.  The very high region where the great San Joaquin, King's, and Kern rivers all rise, includes some of the grandest scenery of the Sierras, the peaks and passes being considerably higher than those near the Yo&macr;-semite&acute;, while the stupendous precipices at the head of King's river can scarcely be exceeded anywhere.  Some of the passes are at an altitude of upwards of 12,000 feet, while the peaks range up to about 15,000.  Mount Whitney is 14,887 feet.</p><P>The rise from the plain to these great mountain-passes is far more rapid than to those farther north.  Here the average ascent is 240 feet in the mile, to a pass of 12,000, while there the average rise is 100 feet in the mile, to reach passes at 7000 feet.</p><P>It strikes me that some of our sporting kinsmen might make out an uncommonly pleasant season "down south" in the San Joaquin.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>MURPHY'S, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
127.sgm: 4 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>Alas! my eyes have looked their last on the glorious forest; and now I am once more in the skeletonised districts abandoned by the miners.  Early rising finds favour in these parts; and so, when I came down "at five o'clock in the morning," a pleasant woman provided me with a bowl of delicious new milk, and then I started for one last enchanting wander in the forest sanctuary.  I "marked well its bulwarks, and told the red towers thereof," and let each lovely picture sink into my memory,--there to abide for ever as a vision of delight.</p><P>Many a time hereafter will those green glades and clustered pillars rise before me, as if to mock the dulness of ordinary landscape.  The wonder to me is, why we are all content to spend most of our years in the most common-place surroundings, and only devote a few short hours to such scenes as these.</p><P>I left Calaveras with my companions of yesterday.  Our coachman was addressed by every one as "Colonel"; and I found he had been some general's A.D.C. in the civil war.  Titles and offices do not necessarily imply much out here.  The judge in the Yo&macr;-semite&acute; was about the hardest drinker there, and periodically had an all-round fight with his drinking pals,--and justice had to wait till he grew sufficiently sober to administer it.  Luckily his services were not often required.</p><P>Indeed I am bound to say that not only have my own glimpses of Californian life shown it in the most peaceful light, but I have not even heard a rumour of any recent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:lawless proceedings hereabouts.  I am even considerably impressed by the very respectable tone of such talk as has reached my ears.  Of course I make all allowance for the extreme courtesy and respect which is here paid to the presence of a woman; but it could scarcely be supposed that the entrance of a chance stranger would invariably check that torrent of profanity which we are told generally flows so freely.  I am chiefly impressed by the civility of men in speaking to one another, and am reminded of the old lady who remarked that "it was a great pity that swearing should be done away with, for it was a fine set-off to conversation!"  Apparently it is a set-off which is happily on the wane in these parts.</p><P>There may be rough corners in Western life at the present day, but the free use of bowie-knives and revolvers is happily no longer <HI REND="italics">de rigueur</HI>
127.sgm:; and though a lot of cattle-driving Texans and Mexicans, finding a favourite drinking-bar crowded with miners, hunters, and ranch-men, may still, under the influence of "chain-lightning" whisky, get up a drunken row, in which six-shooters and knives figure largely, and in which killing is not accounted murder, the general feeling of the community is in favour of peace and order; and the maxim of "live and let live" is widely approved.</p><P>This improved state of society is undoubtedly due in a great measure to the working of the far-famed "Vigilance Committees," who, when rowdyism had reached a point which made life altogether unendurable for peaceable, orderly folk, bound themselves together as members of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:secret society, sworn never to divulge the names of the committee (who, if known, would have become doomed men).</p><P>This self-constituted inquisition carried out its own decrees with a simple straightforwardness of purpose that commanded the deepest respect from the wild dare-devils who gloried in setting all ordinary law at defiance.  No time was wasted on useless formalities.  A man who was known to have committed a murder, or, far worse, to have stolen horses or cattle, or otherwise transgressed grievously, was quietly arrested, marched before the secret tribunal, tried, condemned, and hanged during the night.  There was no pleasant excitement to support the culprit's spirits--no sympathetic friends to attempt a rescue,--all was done silently, with grim determination; and in the morning, a corpse, swinging from the low bough of some specially selected tree, alone announced that the ends of justice had been accomplished.</p><P>If a man was not considered bad enough for hanging, but his room was deemed better than his company, or if he was suspected of serious crime, he received a mysterious notice--</p><P>"Unless you leave this town in twenty-four hours, you are a dead man.<HSEP>+"</p><P>The notice was not signed, but a red cross in the corner was the recognised symbol of the dread committee; and the recipent well knew that it was no idle threat, and made tracks accordingly with the utmost speed.  It was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:rough justice, but effectual, and well suited to that rude state of society.  After a while the Vigilance Committees resigned their functions in favour of legitimate government, but not till they had done the rough work,--acting like sledge-hammers in preparing the way for more refined tools.<ANCHOR ID="n17-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-11"><P>The grim humour of early days still, however, crops up from time to time.  There was a story told the other day of an old man who had killed many men--had usually, indeed, killed every man who greatly displeased him.  His favourite weapon was the rifle, his inseparable companion.</p><P>At last a man came all the way from Texas, with the avowed object of killing this ruffian, and so avenging a relative who had been one of his many victims.  One day, as the old man walked along a path through the woods, his pursuer fired at him from behind a tree.  The aim was true, and the victim fell to the ground shot through the body.  But he was not dead.</p><P>After some time, the man who had shot him put his head out from behind the tree, to learn what had been the effect of the bullet.  At that moment a rifle-ball crashed through his brain.</p><P>A little later, a neighbour came along the path, and found the Texan quite dead; and the old man, though plainly fatally wounded, was still alive and conscious, but unable to do more than raise himself on one elbow.  After he had succeeded in attaining this position, he said, "Could yer roll that cuss over hyur, so's I kin hev a look at him?"</p><P>This was done, and he gazed at the lifeless body with a contemptuous kind of interest.  "Bill Fosdick allus <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
127.sgm: a fool!" said he.  "I knowed he couldn't keep his head behind that tree!  I knowed he'd look out arter a while, and then I knowed I'd fetch him!"</p><P>Then the neighbour took off his coat, and adjusted it under the old fellow's head, and in a few minutes more, two dead bodies lay side by side in the woodland path.</p></NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>We look upon the summary justice of Lynch law as such a purely American institution, that it is rather singular to learn that the term originated in Ireland four hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:years ago, when, in the year 1498, James Lynch, Mayor of Galway, "hanged his own son out of the window (for defrauding and killing a stranger), without martial or common law, to show a good example to posterity."  It is a pity that so excellent an example did not become a recognised institution in Ireland as well as in America.  By this time that unhappy land might have become peaceful and orderly!</p><P>It appears that young Lynch had found his way to Spain, where he received much kindness from a Spanish family.  On his return to Ireland, he was accompanied by the son of the house, who was cordially welcomed by the mayor.  But ere long both young men fell in love with the same fascinating maiden, and young Lynch, wild with jealousy, stabbed his friend.  He was tried for murder by his own father, who, by virtue of his office as judge, had to pronounce sentence of death.  Intercession was made for the young man, but the judge (prevailing over the father) ruled that such breach of hospitality was unpardonable.  So the culprit was hanged from the window of the room where he had stabbed his friend, and the rusty bar which did service on the occasion is still pointed out to all interested in such matters.</p><P>It is only a fifteen-miles' drive from Calaveras to this hideous place; so I have had ample time to look about, and examine the very curious condition of the rocks, as they appear after a severe course of placer-mining.  They are as dismal as the desolate settlement of deserted shanties and tumble-down weather-board houses, varied with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:abandoned mill-dams, where streams, once bright and babbling, were captured, and forced to work, whether they would or no.</p><P>The coach starts from here at some unearthly hour of the morning to catch the train at Milton, and I must sleep while I can.  So good night.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>A CALIFORNIAN HARVEST--GLENN'S FARM--LARGE VEGETABLES--SOUTHERN ORCHARDS--CALIFORNIAN OLIVES--BEET-ROOT SUGAR--GERANIUM HEDGES--LUXURIANT ROSES.</p><P>OAKLAND, NEAR SAN FRANCISCO,</p><P><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
127.sgm: 6 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>AFTER a weary day of dusty travelling, it was truly refreshing to arrive last night at the fresh, pleasant home of "the sisters,"--my chief companions in the valley,--and to be welcomed and washed, and made to feel thoroughly happy and at home.</p><P>And, indeed, yesterday was a long day; for it began at 3 A.M., when the good landlord at Murphy's called me and gave me hot coffee.  Then the coach came round, driven by "the Colonel," and we started by dim starlight.  It was the best way to see the hideous country.</p><P>We halted for breakfast at a wayside inn kept by an Italian family, and the graceful daughters of the house presented me with the largest apples I have ever seen.  We passed heavily laden orchards, with a wondrous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:abundance of all fruits; but each breath of air was dust-laden, and the poor orchards were smothered.</p><P>At Milton I exchanged the dusty coach for dustier steam-cars, and so in due time reached the main line at Stockton--a dull, uninteresting town--from which point I might, had wisdom been awake, have taken a river-steamer, and come down the broad San Joaquin to San Francisco.  It would have been a lovely night-expedition, by the light of a full moon, and the river is bordered by large willow-trees and tall reedy grasses.  It is an expedition which no one ever thinks of making, which would have lent it additional charm in my eyes.  But I was burdened with luggage, and could see no railway or steamboat porters; and so, not feeling equal to shouldering my own goods, I thought it best to run in the regular groove--which, of course, I now regret; for the last stage of that dusty, noisy journey was the worst of all.</p><P>It was scarcely possible to believe that the thirsty land of tawny dust across which we were rushing, could possibly be the same San Joaquin valley which I had last seen in the freshest spring green; or that these dry arid fields will, as if by magic, again change to one broad expanse of brightest green so soon as the refreshing rains of October fall.</p><P>Now the harvest has been reaped, the wheat threshed by steam on the field where it grew, and stored in sacks, which lie by the roadside till it is convenient to remove them (no fear of rain), and the straw is piled in hillocks till required.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>When I speak of "a field," you must not understand the word in our contracted British sense.  Here there are no obtrusive boundaries or divisions, but one broad level expanse of grain extending for miles and miles, till it fades away in the hot haze on the horizon, or else reaches nature's boundary of sun-burnt hills.  Far as the eye can reach, extends the vast wheat-crop--the true Californian gold.  It has been said of such a field, that "a man sometimes ploughs but a single furrow in a day, but that may be a furrow fifteen or twenty miles long!"</p><P>All harvest-work is done by machinery.  As the steam-plough prepared the ground, so does the "harvester" reap, glean, thresh, and even sack the grain, mechanically.  To the children reared under such influences, the poetry of old-world parables concerning sowers and reapers must be altogether lost, and the stories themselves without meaning.</p><P>In truth, the romance of a sweet, old-fashioned English harvest-field finds no echo here.  There are no hedgerows nor scattered timber, to give a corner of welcome shadow; and in place of the rich undergrowth of sweet clover and succulent grasses forming a fresh green carpet for the golden sheaves, there is here only a vast plain of driest dust: far as the eye can reach, it sees only the yellow sun-scorched land, and great waggons heavily laden with golden grain, seen dimly through clouds of choking yellow dust.  It is unattractive and unlovable, like most of the world's sources of wealth.  I suspect that in all corners of the earth, poetry vanishes at the approach of the yellow-fingered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:god of gold, even more quickly than from that of squalid poverty.  Like Agur, she craves a middle path, and shuns both poverty and riches.</p><P>If threshing is not done by steam, the machine is turned by horse-power: perhaps twenty horses walk round and round in endless circle, in clouds of choking dust.  Then the grain is carted away in great waggons, and the straw remains on the field.  Should the farmer not care to thresh his crop at once, he leaves the corn standing in sheaves where it grew, well knowing that no rain will fall to destroy it, and that no thief will trouble himself to appropriate it; and there it may remain for weeks in perfect safety.</p><P>And what a crop it is!  To begin with, the average return is from 60 to 70 bushels to the acre; but besides this, so large a quantity of seed drops, that one sowing produces two crops; and though the second is, of course, less abundant than the first, it has the advantage of being a spontaneous gift of the soil, involving no out-lay in time or labour, only the care of reaping the self-sown crop.<ANCHOR ID="n18-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-11">It is consolatory to learn that British America bids fair to rival California as a wheat-producing country, though its colder climate does not offer the same attraction as at home.  Here is an American view of Manitoba: "Mr Horatio Seymour, ex-Governor of New York--a gentleman whose position renders his utterances of more than ordinary value--has paid a visit to Manitoba, and has conveyed the result of his experience in the form of a letter to a friend.  He declares, without fear of successful contradiction, that if Great Britain were to impose a tariff of 10 or 20 cents per bushel upon American wheat and other grain, allowing Canadian wheat and other products to enter her ports free, she could bankrupt the farmers of the American north-west.  He saw thousands of acres of wheat clearing 40 bushels to the acre, and weighing 63 to 65 lb. to the bushel.  People, he says, are crowding there rapidly, and towns are springing up as if by magic.  The Great Canada Pacific Railway will be at Puget Sound before the North Pacific of the United States, and the distance to Liverpool will be 600 miles shorter than any American line which could convey Dakota wheat for shipment thither.  The best steel rails are being laid on the road--100 tons to the mile, at 56 dols. per ton; whilst on the parallel American line, the North Pacific, the same rails cost about 70 dols.--a difference of 1400 dols. per mile, in rails alone, in favour of the Canada Pacific.  Mr Seymour is equally demonstrative on other points, and he has evidently been strongly impressed by his visit."</NOTE>
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127.sgm:<P>Is it not enough to fill a British farmer with jealous despair to hear of such farms as Dr Glenn's in the Sacramento valley, extending thirty miles along the river?  I am told that he has 60,000 acres of wheat, besides large vineyards and other crops.  Fifteen hundred horses and mules, and hundreds of labourers, are employed on the farm.  At times forty ploughs are working simultaneously, and three steam-engines drive the harvest-machinery.  But most tantalising of all to the sorely tried farmer of our Mother Isle, is this blessed climate, which distributes the time of harvest throughout five months, from May till the end of September, during which not a cloud has a right to drop even a refreshing shower upon the dusty earth, and assuredly none to lay and saturate the uncut crops.</p><P>What with wheat, wine, and wool, nature has truly been bountiful to California.  I hear of cattle-ranches in the Southern State on such an immense scale that the vast herds roam at large, their owners being scarcely able to guess at their numbers.</p><P>But everything in California is done on a large scale, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:and so giant fortunes are built up.  In farming, as in monster mining or railway speculation, it is neck or nothing.  Mediocrity is nowhere (except so far as its own comfort is concerned, and there it has a decided advantage).  A man must either be lord of vast flocks or herds,--a shepherd king or a cattle king,--or else he must be known as a princely grain-merchant or a railway potentate.  It does not much matter what line he takes,--except, indeed, that pork is accounted lower than beef, and the swine-owner is supposed to rank below a lord of bullocks.  So perhaps an ambitious Californian would prefer to leave the pig-market to Chicago, where piggy reigns supreme.</p><P>After all, it is no wonder that Californians should have such respect for everything done wholesale, for certainly nature gives them a grand example, what with Big Cliffs, Big Trees, and Big Vegetables.</p><P>What think you of cabbages six feet high, and weighing 50 lb. a head?  Some have been found to weigh 75 lb.  Carrots have been weighed averaging 35 lb. each; onions, 5 lb.; beet-roots, 200 lb.; water-melons, 95 lb.; pears, from 3 to 4 lb. each; potatoes, 15 lb. each.  Cherries grow to three inches in circumference, and currants to an inch and a half.</p><P>Pumpkins of 200 lb. weight are very common.  Near San Diego they grow to 350 lb., a single seed having been known to yield 1400 lb. weight of pumpkins the following season.  Cucumbers fifty inches in length are not uncommon (meet company for the silvery salmon, which are brought from the Columbia river to San Francisco by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:swift steamers before they have time to realise that they have been captured!  Rejoice, ye epicures!)</p><P>I have learnt a good many of these particulars from a cheery party of Southern Californians, whose homes lie near the old Spanish settlements of Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, San Diego, and San Bernardino.  They tell me I need not imagine that I know anything about California till I have seen those delightful semi-tropical districts, where flowers and fruit of all sorts grow in such profusion as does certainly sound almost incredible.</p><P>One lady told me of her father's orange-orchards, in which there are several trees, each of which bears upwards of 2000 oranges, and one tree occasionally yields 3000.  An average tree should yield 1000 oranges at the age of ten to twelve years, and becomes more and more fruitful as it grows older; so, as it lives to the good old age of a hundred, increase must be something amazing.</p><P>The price of oranges in San Francisco ranges from fifteen to thirty dollars a thousand (&pound;4 to &pound;6); and as the trees in an orange-orchard are planted sixty to the acre, it does not need a very elaborate calculation to see that the owner of this fragrant crop must derive from it a very nice little income,--especially as expenses are not heavy, one man being able to look after twenty acres.</p><P>An orchard of ten acres may fairly be expected to represent an annual profit of &pound;2000! and some men have thirty or forty acres of oranges (Mr L. J. Rose has 500 acres of orange-orchards!)  Other men have immense vineyards, and separate large orchards for lemons, limes, citrons, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:walnuts, nectarines, apricots, peaches, pomegranates, pears, apples, figs, almonds, olives, and Spanish chestnuts,--the latter especially telling of the early Spanish settlers, who brought these memorials of their own land, and planted them at the missions which they dedicated to San Gabriel and San Diego.</p><P>The olive-groves of San Diego and Santa Barbara are noted throughout the States, and the tree has become thoroughly naturalised, as trees and men are wont to do in America.  So now Californian olives are in greater request that Sevilles in the Eastern States; and the number consumed is something marvellous, as you can judge from the custom of placing a small plate of pickled olives beside each guest, to be eaten during the intervals of dinner. I confess it is a custom which I highly appreciate.</p><P>Being Californian, I need scarcely say that they are at least twice the ordinary size, and are very juicy, and fresh in flavour.  As a crop, the olive is highly remunerative, one tree occasionally yielding as much fruit as will sell for &pound;10.  This, however, is exceptional, and the tree must be well on in years; one of the most remarkable points in this culture being, that the olive-tree becomes more prolific year by year till it has completed its first century,--and how long it may continue fruitful it is impossible to say.  There are trees in Asia Minor which are known to be upwards of 1200 years old, and are still in full bearing.</p><P>But as regards the immediate prospects of their planting, it appears that the trees (which are planted sixty to the acre) begin to bear at three years, and at five years old are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:self-supporting-- <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
127.sgm:., they pay all expenses of tillage and harvesting, and yield a small surplus.  By the sixth year they pay all the expenses of their early years, including the price of land and of young trees.  At eight years of age they should yield 2000 gallons of berries to the acre, which, being reduced to oil, gives an average return of &pound;250 to the acre.  Of course a large amount of the fruit is reserved for pickling.</p><P>Some men devote their whole care to almond-growing; and I hear of one gentleman at Santa Barbara who reckons his almond-trees at 55,000!</p><P>One of the most paying industries hereabouts is the manufacture of beet-root sugar, for which there are large factories at San Francisco and Sacramento.  The absolute regularity with which the rains and the dry season succeed one another at invariable seasons is singularly favourable to the growth of beet, which requires wet weather in its early days, and subsequent drought.  By planting in January, this result is exactly obtained, and the saccharine quality of the beet is developed to the utmost, a much larger percentage of sugar being obtained in California than in Europe.</p><P>A ton of beets is expected to yield a barrel of the whitest sugar--in other words, about ten barrels to the acre; and the refuse (known as <HI REND="italics">bagasse</HI>
127.sgm: ) is, when mixed with cut hay, excellent fodder, equally in favour for fattening cattle, or--on dairy farms--for the production of good milk and butter.  Consequently large sheds are built near the sugar-factories, in which are stalled the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:beeves, whose sole duty in life is to become fat as quickly as possible.</p><P>I am told that at these sugar-factories, as in most other industries where careful, steady men are required, the Chinese are those chiefly employed.</p><P>OAKLAND, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
127.sgm: 11 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>There is some pleasure in gardening in California.  One of the houses here is literally covered by a fuchsia, which, within three years from the day it was planted, had tapes-tried the whole wall--seventy feet in length, and three storeys high--and climbed right over the roof, forming a lovely veil of crimson bells.</p><P>Geraniums grow into bushes six or eight feet high, and eighteen to twenty in circumference, bearing perhaps a thousand heads in blossom simultaneously.  Some sorts grow so rankly that they are planted as hedges, and grow to a height of twenty feet within a year--and of course the fence may be as long as you choose.  Just imagine the blaze of colour produced by such a belt of blossom!  Our humble clipped hedges are indeed unattractive, compared with such glories.</p><P>But the chief delight centres in the roses.  I am told of one rose-bush in a Southern garden, which produces from 15,000 to 25,000 roses yearly.  And Santa Rosa, true to its name, has a mammoth rose-bush, the stem of which is two feet in circumference, and rises twelve feet before throwing out a branch.  Its total height is about thirty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:feet, and circumference seventy feet.  This grand rosebush bears about 12,000 pure white roses at a time, counting half-blown buds.</p><P>Even more delightful is a red-rose bush a hundred feet in circumference, in the very heart of which is hidden a romantic cottage, thirty feet square, altogether concealed by the curtain of fragrant pink blossoms.  Could a more fascinating nest be imagined?</p><P>This town belies its name--or rather the name is a survival of departed glories, for most of the original oaks were cruelly felled in the early days, before there was any idea of making a town here.  So they have been replaced by swift-growing eucalyptus, which certainly does its best as a substitute; and all manner of ornamental trees and shrubs are fast growing up.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P>CHROMO-LITHOGRAPHY--CALIFORNIAN GRAPES, AND WINES--SOCIETY--A TOILOF A PLEASURE--A HOME IN THE NEW WORLD.</p><P><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
127.sgm: 13 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>I HAVE spent a most interesting afternoon with Mr Bosqui, who owns large chromo-lithographic works here.  He is at present reproducing a very beautiful series of studies of all the Californian grapes, painted by Miss Millard.  I had no idea that the grape family was so numerous, or that it could be made to yield so much artistic variety.  But what with every shade of purple, and red, and so-called white, and delicate bloom, and tinted leaves--and berries round or oblong, and bunches straggling or compact--the great Clan Grape musters strong and beautiful.</p><P>The amount of labour involved in reproducing such a series as this is certainly startling to the uninitiated.  I suppose you know that each tint has to be laid on separately, and that if there are only two or three touches of one colour, they equally involve an extra stone, with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:general picture outlined, and these coloured spots alone marked.  Some of these pictures require thirty-six separate stone blocks.  So to produce three dozen coloured plates, perhaps a thousand stones have to be used!  The ground-floor of a chromo-lithographer's establishment suggests the idea of a mason's yard full of paving-blocks.</p><P>I was particularly glad to have this chance of seeing all the Californian grapes, as the fruit itself will not be ripe for another month.  Then, you can buy a large basketful for a shilling.  Even now there are delicious grapes in the market, but I think they are forced.</p><P>I cannot say that the vineyards I have seen hitherto have at all answered to any poetical idea which the word may convey.  Stiffly trained on low trellis, and smothered in dust, the vines hereabouts are singularly unattractive, and appear as though they must die of drought.  Certainly they do not seem capable of producing luscious fruit in extraordinary abundance.  Yet such is the case.  From Sacramento in the north, to the extreme south of California, the vine flourishes, growing freely among the foot-hills, where the finest grapes are produced on land so poor, that by nature it would scarcely pasture goats.</p><P>For example, the great vineyards of Napa and Sonoma valley, a little to the north of San Francisco, are on arid, gravelly soil, barely a foot deep, with hard rocky subsoil.  Yet these once barren hills are among the finest wine-growing districts of California.</p><P>For three years the settler must work in hope, clearing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:away brush, preparing the soil, and planting his vines, at the rate of a thousand to the acre.  In the third year he gets a small return; in the fourth year his vines should yield 1000 lb. to the acre; in the fifth year 6000; in the sixth year 8000 lb., which thenceforth is accounted a good average crop, though some vineyards yield a far higher proportion--the vines sometimes attaining a luxuriance which sounds almost incredible.  I am told of one in Santa Barbara which yields an annual average of about four ton of grapes!</p><P>As an instance of what a vine may grow to in this glorious climate of California, they tell me of the Montecito vine in Santa Barbara.  At three feet from the ground it measured forty-two inches in circumference.  Its boughs overshadowed 10,000 square feet of ground.  Its annual crop frequently amounted to considerably above 7000 clusters, equal to 12,000 lb. weight of grapes.  Having attained a good old age of nearly sixty years, it was pronounced to have seen its best days; so it was resolved to cut it down, divide it into sections, and send it to the Philadelphia Exhibition as an example of Californian produce.  It seemed sad to sacrifice so generous a friend for the instruction of unbelievers; but its owner consoled himself with the fact that his vine had left a daughter sixteen years old, an offshoot worthy of its parent, which already yielded an annual weight of 10,000 lb. of grapes!</p><P>Some vines, again, are noted for the gigantic size of individual bunches, and we heard of one bunch weighing 50 lb., which had been exhibited for some time at one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:fruit-shops here, proving this to have been the true land of Eshcol!</p><P>Every known vine seems to take equally kindly to this soil, and flourishes to perfection.</p><P>A great variety of light wines are made which, though not yet considered fully up to the mark, are nevertheless largely consumed.  Certainly there can be no reason why they should be in any way inferior to those of Europe.</p><P>There are various sparkling wines, both dry and sweet.  One greatly in favour is a sweet, sparkling white Muscatel, made from the white muscat grape.  Another very popular sweet wine is Angelica.  Also a white wine made from German Riesling, and various wines from the Black Malvoisia, Black Pineau, Berger, Chasselas, &amp;c., &amp;c.  There are dry Champagne, Clarets, Hock, Burgundy, Port and Sherry--all of which are literally fruity, as they retain a distinct flavour of the original grape.  Claret is made chiefly from the Zinfandel grape, but fresh varieties are being planted every year.</p><P>The farmers supply this pure grape-juice to the great wine-houses of San Francisco, by whom vast quantities of light wines are exported to the Eastern States.</p><P>The majority of the grape-growers are, however, also wine-makers, and have their own wine-press in the vineyard, where the whole process of wine-making may be seen by whoever cares to do so.  There is no adulteration here--only the pure juice of grapes, which, in this varying climate, always ripen perfectly.  There are no bad seasons here--every year is alike good.  The great aim of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:wine-maker is to produce light wines, pure and cheap, and free from spirits.</p><P>Some of the most successful wine-growers have their vineyards in the immediate neighbourhood of the garden-city of Los Angeles.  I am told of a Colonel Wilson whose vineyards cover 250 acres, and his wine-press turns out 1000 gallons of wine to the acre.</p><P>By comparison, those of Don Matteo Keller seem small; yet he owns 140 acres, on which he grows upwards of 200 varieties of grapes.  Every day during the grape season his wine-press produces 10,000 gallons of wine, while in his cellars 200,000 gallons are stored for ripening.</p><P>Only think of the amazing profusion of delicious grapes of every sort which this implies!  One statistic of Colonel Wilson's grape-harvest is a trifling item of two and a half million pounds of grapes hung up by their stalks, to keep them fresh for the market.  I confess I should like to be turned loose to graze in those delicious pastures!</p><P>The white Malaga grape is the best for making raisins, its thick skin and small seeds being in its favour.  It requires rich soil, and yields 10,000 lb. of grapes to the acre.  As four pounds of grapes go to one of raisins, the profit is considerable; but gathering and drying the bunches requires much care and patience.<ANCHOR ID="n19-11">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-11"><P>Since the above was written, vine-culture has enormously increased in California, and in the summer of 1882 it was calculated that 100,000 acres of vines had been planted, all of which are expected to be in full bearing in A.D. 1886, and should yield the annual return of 40,000,000 gallons of wine.  This, however, by no means represents the vine area of the future, as every year new vineyards are being planted.  A multitude of small home vineyards of small home vineyards of from ten to thirty acres have been taken up in pleasant sheltered valleys, by men of small means, who look rather to making a home than a great fortune.</p><P>But large capitalists are now taking up vine-culture on a more remunerative scale, and many vineyards of 600 acres have recently been established.  One of 1500 acres has been started near Los Angeles by a company, and Mr Leland Stamford has already planted 1000 acres in Butte County, and is said to purpose annually enlarging his borders till he has 10,000 acres of vines!</p><P>The crops of 1882 suffered considerably from the unwonted frosts of the spring.  Grapes generally flower in the first half of April, and various precautions are adopted to protect the tender blossoms from the chance of frost.  By the beginning of May all danger is supposed to be past.  This year, however, there was frost on May 12th, 14th, and 15th; and as no precautions had been considered necessary, the damage done was serious.</p><P>The worst danger lies in warm sunshine after a frosty night, and this is neutralised by burning piles of brushwood, the smoke of which clouds the sunshine.</p></NOTE>
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127.sgm:<P>OAKLAND, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
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127.sgm:.</p><P>Every day I find it more difficult to realise that only twenty-five years ago San Francisco was a desolate heap of sand-hills, varied with swamp.  And now there is not only a huge populous city, but all round the vast harbour, and in every direction, there have sprung up large towns, with multitudes of pretty villas, all embowered in flowers.</p><P>This city of Oakland is but one of many of these flourishing daughters of the San Franciscan Mother Superior, from which she is separated by about seven miles of sea.  It has a population of upwards of 50,000 persons, of whom, on an average, 10,000 daily cross the harbour by the splendid half-hourly ferry steamboats.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:Oakland possesses twenty churches, several banks, and a fine court-house.  But its especial pride centres in its great Public Schools, and its State University, which is open to students of both sexes, to the number of 200, who receive a first-class education gratuitously.  A special law forbids the sale of any intoxicating liquor within two miles of the university.  Certainly it must be allowed that, what with free libraries and free schools, the Granite State takes good care of its children.</p><P>In the way of trade, Oakland has its own iron and brass foundries, potteries, patent marble works, tanneries, and various other large mercantile establishments.  But its chief characteristic is the multitude of pleasant homes and pretty semi-tropical gardens, with a wealth of blossoms and most beautifully kept soft green lawns.</p><P>If people could be content to know only their near neighbours, Oakland and <HI REND="italics">its</HI>
127.sgm: suburbs might provide a very agreeable society.  But when the visiting-list includes friends on the other side of San Francisco, then the long distances, and crossing the harbour, make society really hard labour.  Even lunching out is a considerable exertion, involving innumerable changes and waste of half the day; and as to dining on the other shores, I only wonder how any one can undertake it.  For once in a way it is interesting, and I greatly enjoyed an expedition to lunch with another of my pleasant Yo&macr;-semite&acute; companions, though doing so involved no less than twelve changes (six going and six returning), and involved five hours of travel, besides one of waiting for the train.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>First, we drove from here to the street along which runs the city railway,--a most remarkable institution, inasmuch as <HI REND="italics">it is free to all men, without any manner of payment</HI>
127.sgm:, and all the people going on their daily errands get in and out just as they please, "without money and without price," anywhere within the city limits, which include five miles of railway.  The trains stop at eight stations to pick up passengers; but their pace being somewhat leisurely, these occasionally swing themselves on, or jump off, wherever they choose.  Trains, with the usual wide-funnelled engines, specially constructed for burning wood, and about fifteen steam-cars, each carrying about fifty passengers, run each way every half-hour--passing along the open street with no further precaution than perpetually ringing a bell, which tolls like a summons to church.  One marvels how all the children escape destruction; but their birthright of wideawake sharpness seems a perfect safeguard.</p><P>The trains run to meet the huge ferry steamboats, which carry us across the harbour in about half an hour.  On landing in San Francisco we find an array of street-cars which are large tram-omnibuses, warranted to carry us in any direction.  We selected one which conveyed us right across the city to the railway station, whence the steam-cars are warranted to take us wheresoever we please.</p><P>On this particular occasion they took us to Millbrae Station, where our friend's carriage awaited us--making the sixth item in our list of conveyances!</p><P>This was my first glimpse of a really wealthy Californian home, and I confess to having been amazed at its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:beauty.  Like most houses here, it is built entirely of wood, for fear of earthquakes; but it would require a very close inspection to be sure that it was not a fine English country-house, stone built.  The interior is admirable, every detail being in excellent taste, very rich, but all in subdued colours.  Real Persian embroideries, and silk hangings that look oriental--Turkish and Persian carpets.  Every ceiling painted in intricate frescoes of richly blended colours, and other decorations all perfectly harmonious, the work of Italian artists from New York.</p><P>The furniture of every room is <HI REND="italics">en suite</HI>
127.sgm:.  In one which particularly attracted me, all the woodwork--bed, cabinets, mantelpiece, &amp;c.--is of polished ebony, exquisitely inlaid with white wood, delicate trails of hundreds of small passion-flowers, with dainty butterflies, all in their true colours.  The draperies of this room are old Persian embroideries, on a buff ground, relieved with maroon velvet.</p><P>Every bedroom has its large bath-room, with every conceivable refinement, such as elaborate school of art towels, &amp;c.</p><P>In every room there are tastefully arranged flowers, well-chosen books, fine china, good bronzes.  In the picture-gallery, which is lighted from above, there are art-treasures of England, France, and America--valuable paintings, and all manner of beautifully illustrated art-books.  It is a picture-gallery arranged for family enjoyment, with most luxurious arm-chairs and sofas, and everything conducive to comfort, and is evidently the favourite sitting-room.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>In short, it is an interior where unbounded wealth and good taste have worked hand in hand.</p><P>Equally delightful are the surroundings.  Every villa here has a pretty, little, brilliant garden, full of flowers all the year round, and with a vividly green lawn, so kept by the constant playing of movable fountains, called sprinklers.  Any bit of ground between the houses not so watered is simply dried-up dust, like the country generally.</p><P>Well, Millbrae has fifteen acres of this exquisite lawn, with garden-beds laid out in ribbon-borders and other patterns of colour.  Fine hothouses, for palm, ferns, and other tropical vegetation, and beautiful shrubbery, with a small lake devoted to water-fowl and water-lilies.  After luncheon, we drove all about San Matteo, which is another town of villas, each like a cosy English vicarage, with exquisitely kept garden.</p><P>This pleasant glimpse of one Californian home made me the more regret not having seen another, at which a magnificent ball was given two days ago by one of the San Franciscan millionaires.  There were 2000 persons present; and though naturally somewhat "mixed," the display of dress and of diamonds was something amazing.  One lady, of very recent creation, wore black velvet, with point-lace valued at &pound;10,000.  It was full moon, and a lovely summer night, but the beautiful grounds were lighted by hundreds of Chinese lanterns, and every detail that wealth could suggest was carried out to perfection.</p><P>The guests went down by special trains, and included all my friends of H.M.S. Shah, which had just happened to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:come into port, on her return from Vancouver (you remember our festivities in Tahiti, on her northward voyage?<ANCHOR ID="n19-12">*</ANCHOR>
127.sgm: They came to see me here, and the Admiral took me back to a pleasant dinner on board.  Then she sailed again for Valparaiso.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-12">`A Lady's Cruise in a French Man-of-War,'--C.F. Gordon Cumming.</NOTE>
127.sgm:<P>Returning from Millbrae to San Francisco, we dined at a restaurant, where the bill of fare offered us good things innumerable, including oysters, sturgeon, and salmon, gumbo-soup, clam-chowder, terrapin-stew, squash-pie, fried mush, green-corn, wild-fowl of various sorts, mallard, canvas-back, teal and quail, antelope and elk venison, &amp;c., &amp;c., &amp;c.</p><P>Afterwards a Chinese gentleman escorted us to the Chinese theatre, where he had kindly secured for us a very good box.  We were unfortunate in the piece selected, which was singularly unpleasant; and the glare of lights, and torturing noise of discordant instruments, made us wish ourselves safely outside.  It certainly was a very curious scene, but by no means an attractive entertainment.</p><P>A very large section of the city is occupied by Chinamen--for the Celestials muster strong in San Francisco; in fact they number about 30,000, and about 70,000 more are hard at work in all parts of California.  Their special quarter in this city is known as Chinatown.  It is built on hilly ground, and its long steep streets are intersected by narrow alleys and wretched courtyards, where an incredible number of human beings are huddled together in the smallest possible compass.  The houses are as crowded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:and as hopelessly dirty as in many parts of the old town of Edinburgh and other British cities, where the very poor congregate.  All sanitary precautions being utterly ignored, the district is foul beyond description.</p><P>But the miracle is to see what really well-washed, neatly dressed, smiling and shining men come forth from their filthy and miserable homes, to do faithful and honest work at fair wages--not necessarily lower wages than those demanded by white men, but in return for which, work is, as a general rule, more conscientiously done.</p><P>The cruel and unreasonable howl against Chinese immigration is raised by jealous men who would fain keep a monopoly of all work, and do it on their own terms and in their own fashion--earning enough in a day to keep them idle for a week.  They cannot forgive the frugal, patient, hard-working Celestial, who is content to work cheerfully from dawn till midnight, for wages equal to three shillings a-day (some can earn six shillings a-day), and contrive to save a considerable sum in the course of a few years.  The low Irish and the dreadful San Franciscan <HI REND="italics">hoodlums</HI>
127.sgm: (young roughs) have no sympathy with the self-denial of men who willingly live on rice and vegetables, that they may save up such a sum as will enable them to return to their own homes, there to invest their little capital, first providing for their parents.</p><P>The constant cry against the Chinamen is, that they earn money in America, and take it all out of the country--even importing from China their clothes, their rice, and their opium--and so in no way benefit trade.  Their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:detractors do not take into account the good sterling work by which the country is enriched, both at the time, and in some cases permanently.  For Chinese labour has been largely employed in all departments of State work--in railway and road making, and wherever else steady and hard and conscientious work is required.  Many masters of large factories bear witness to the satisfactory nature of the work done for them by Chinese hands, in contrast with the manner in which it is scamped by white men, when they are tempted to yield to the general howl, and employ only white labour.</p><P>As domestic servants, they stand unequalled.  My hostess tells me that hers are the comfort of her life.  She finds them faithful, industrious, clean--and reliable; and that, after going through all manner of misery at the hands of dirty Irish housemaids and cooks, she has found domestic peace and comfort since the day her excellent Chinamen were established as cook and boy.  I believe that most householders agree in this verdict, and find that their tame Chinaman is a tower of strength, that he can do marketing far better and cheaper than they could do it themselves, and that he is altogether a valuable acquisition.</p><P>So, however little John Chinaman may be appreciated as the representative of the coming race, his departure from California would be bewailed by many, as a serious loss to the Granite State.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Concluding Note</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>The month of May 1881 was marked by the most extraordinary anomaly which could possibly have arisen, among a people whose national existence is based on the Declaration of Independence, and the assumption of liberty and equality of all men, without distinction of race or colour.</p><P>This extraordinary event was nothing less than that the American Legislature should have yielded to the clamours of the low Irish in California, and to their ceaseless anti-Chinese howl, to the extent of actually passing a law prohibiting all Chinese immigration for the next ten years, beginning from ninety days after the passing of the Act, heavy penalties being inflicted on any shipmaster who shall land any Chinaman of the labouring class at any port in the Land of Freedom.  An exception is made in favour of merchants, diplomatists, travellers, and students, provided they are duly provided with passports!</p><P>A law has also been passed to prevent any Chinaman from becoming an American citizen--the fear being that so many might wish to avail themselves of that privilege, that the whole white population of the Pacific coast would ultimately find itself a small minority, and that the Chinese "Six Companies" (mysterious but mighty potentates, who rule all the affairs of their countrymen in California) would actually rule in the Legislature of the State.</p><P>That enactments so utterly un-American could have been suffered to pass, appears so extraordinary, that it has been generally assumed to have been brought forward by the Republican party, solely as a means of making political capital by securing the Democratic vote.  If such was indeed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:the secret spring of action, it is so far satisfactory to know that it failed in securing its object, the Democrats having frustrated that move by voting in favour of the bill.  Public opinion appears to have been about equally divided on the question, the Eastern States taking part with the Chinamen, the Western States clamouring for his exclusion.</p><P>The clamour, however, has carried the day, and for the next ten years no Chinese workman may enter the Golden Gates of the American Paradise.</p></DIV>
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127.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.</HEAD>
127.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Reference to page</HI>
127.sgm: 9, <HI REND="italics">last paragraph</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>THIS partial use of the Scotch office, recalls the fact that America received her first Bishop from the persecuted Episcopal Church in Scotland, in memory of which the peculiar office of that Church was at first adopted in America in its simplicity, though subsequently modified.</p><P>The circumstance was one of peculiar interest.  Previous to the War of Independence there were no American Bishops, and all candidates for Holy Orders had to come to England to receive ordination.  At the conclusion of the war, it was found that so many of the clergy had either died or been banished, that in the four colonies of Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, there were seventy vacant churches, and in many parts of the country, clergy were required, but there was no means of obtaining ordination.</p><P>In the State of Connecticut only fourteen of the Episcopal clergy survived.  These agreed that the time had come when America must have her own Episcopate, and that a meeting should be held to decide what steps must be taken.  Only seven of this little band were able to assemble.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:met in a small cottage at Woodbury, and, having elected one of their number to that honour (Dr Samuel Seabury), they sent him to Britain to seek consecration from the Archbishop of Canterbury.  Should difficulties arise on the subject, he was enjoined to seek consecration at the hands of the Scottish Bishops.  This course was fully approved by all the clergy of New York.</p><P>Dr Seabury was courteously received by the Archbishops of Canterbury and York, and the Bishop of London, who, however, found endless causes for delay, fearing to offend the ruling powers, and finally announced that they could not consecrate any person who, from any cause, was unable to take the oath of allegiance.</p><P>The candidate for the Episcopate then suggested that he must appeal to the Scottish Bishops--a solution of the difficulty which had actually never occurred to the Archbishops.  For the sister Church had passed through such fiery persecution during the last half-century, that her very existence seemed endangered.  Two years after the battle of Culloden, penal laws had been enacted (A.D. 1748) which forbade any clergyman of the Episcopal Church to officiate in any church or chapel.  He might hold service in his own house, but if more than four persons besides his family were present, he was liable to <HI REND="italics">six months' imprisonment for the first offence, and</HI>
127.sgm: TRANSPORTATION FOR LIFE <HI REND="italics">on the second</HI>
127.sgm:!</p><P>Under this crushing system, the persecuted Church seemed really to be melting away; for whereas at the time of her disestablishment in 1689 she numbered two Archbishops, twelve Bishops, and a thousand clergy, now when America came to claim her aid, she possessed only four Bishops, and forty-two clergy.</p><P>As those dared not meet in any recognised chapel, they assembled in an upper chamber, which had been fitted up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:as such, in the house of the Bishop of Aberdeen, (Robert Kilgour, Primus) who, together with his Bishop-coadjutor, John Skinner, and Arthur Petrie, Bishop of Ross and Moray, consecrated Dr Seabury, as first Bishop of Connecticut and Rhode Island, on the 14th Nov. 1784.</p><P>As it was necessary that America should possess three Bishops, to carry on the succession, the Archbishop of Canterbury got an Act of Parliament passed, for one year only, to authorise the consecration of Bishops for foreign countries, without requiring the oath of allegiance.  Two more Bishops-elect were then sent over from America to be consecrated at Lambeth.  And thus the American Church owes her Episcopal succession alike to England and Scotland.</p><P>But her people have not forgotten the upper chamber in Aberdeen, and though Bishop Skinner's house was demolished not many years after this memorable event, its materials were employed to build a chapel on the same site, which chapel was sold to the Wesleyans in 1817 when its Episcopal congregation removed to a larger place of worship.  It is purposed therein to hold a centenary service of no ordinary interest in the autumn of 1884, at which it is hoped that the Anglican Church of the three countries will be well represented.</p><P>For the days of persecution are happily a tale of the past.  Scotland's penal laws were repealed in 1792.  She now numbers seven Bishops and 242 Episcopal clergy, while the Church in America possesses more than sixty Bishops, and numbers her clergy by thousands.</p><P>The remains of Bishop Seabury were, in 1849, removed from their first resting-place in the public cemetery of New London, to the crypt beneath the chancel of the Church of St James, built on the site of his own church.  A tablet on the wall records that:--</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>"Under the pavement of the Altar, as the final place of rest until the<LB>Judgment of the Great Day, now repose the mortal remains of<LB>THE RIGHT REV. PRELATE, SAMUEL SEABURY, D.D. Oxon.<LB>WHO FIRST BROUGHT FROM SCOTLAND<LB>INTO THE ANGLO-AMERICAN REPUBLIC OF THE NEW WORLD<LB>THE APOSTOLIC SUCCESSION,<LB>Nov. 14, 1784." <HI REND="italics">Reference to page</HI>
127.sgm: 17, <HI REND="italics">third paragraph</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>That such fears are by no means groundless, has been shown this autumn of 1883, when even favoured California has shivered in sympathy with the widespread volcanic commotion.  The daily papers of October 11 thus record the event: "At one o'clock this morning a severe earthquake shook San Francisco.  Three hours earlier there had been a slight shock, which passed without general notice, but there was no mistaking the visit at one this morning.  The houses rocked as if violently shaken by a strong hand.  Windows rattled as if they would fall to pieces.  The air was filled with a strange rushing noise, and an indescribable tremor shook the earth.  This lasted several seconds, and, wakening people suddenly from sleep, created widespread terror.  I do not hear of any injury being done.  It is more than twenty years since anything approaching this was felt in San Francisco."</p><P>Six weeks previously, on the 28th August-- <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
127.sgm:., the day after the terrific earthquake in Java--a series of great waves swept the coast of California, creating considerable astonishment even within the landlocked harbour of San Francisco, where, during several hours, the water rose and fell about one foot per hour.</p><P>Such warnings as these cannot but suggest the possibility of some more serious shock.  In these matters, as in most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:others, history occasionally repeats itself; and there are points in the brief history of this City of Sandhills, which suggest an unpleasant resemblance to that of another great commercial centre, the fate of which has pointed many a moral in the last two hundred years.</p><P>One of the most terrible earthquakes on record occurred in Jamaica in the year 1692, when, without the very slightest warning, the large and flourishing town of Port Royal was totally destroyed, and two thousand persons--whites and negroes--perished, all within the space of three minutes!--a catastrophe so appalling, that to this day its anniversary is observed by many of the Creoles as a day of solemn fasting and prayer.</p><P>Like the modern San Francisco in California, this wealthy city had sprung up with extraordinary rapidity, on a low sandy shore, busy business streets being actually built on land reclaimed from the sea, by driving piles into the sand.  Unmindful not only of the wisdom which forbade building on such an unstable foundation, but also of the practical experience which has taught men accustomed to earthquakes to provide against them by building low wooden houses, these merchants of Port Royal built strong substantial brick houses, several storeys in height, with churches, schools, forts, and a luxurious palace for the governor.  Of all these, only a very small number were founded upon rock.  Within the short space of thirty years the insignificant village had developed into a very wealthy commercial centre, with a population of 3500 persons.  Then, as now, an occasional very slight tremor of the earth afforded food for conversation, but of serious danger there was no fear.  All seemed peaceful and safe till the 7th June 1692, a bright beautiful day of cloudless sunlight.  Half an hour before noon, when all men were intent on their business, a very slight quivering of the earth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:was observed, followed a few seconds later by another, and a hollow subterranean rumbling.  A moment later there came a third earthquake-shock, and in an instant the earth opened her mouth (as at the judgment of Korah and his presumptuous brethren), and in the very sight of the survivors, swallowed up all the principal streets on the reclaimed ground, with the busy multitude, as they hurried to and fro without one thought of their impending fate.  Then, in one monstrous wave, the sea swept inland to claim her own, as if mocking the puny mortals who had striven to infringe on her boundaries.</p><P>Of the sixteen hundred human beings who were engulfed in that awful moment, only one survived, as if by a miracle.  The mighty wave caught him up ere he was hopelessly buried, and carried him into the harbour, where he contrived to swim till he reached a boat--a true ark of safety.  The life thus wonderfully preserved was prolonged for forty-four years of active usefulness, and a monument in the renewed city to the memory of Louis Galdy, bearing date 1736, records this history.</p><P>Meanwhile fresh earthquake-waves overswept the city, which was submerged to the depth of several fathoms, and large ships, torn from their moorings, were floated over the roofs of the houses in the main streets, and were able in some cases to rescue the perishing inhabitants.  All through the day and the following night the earthquake-shocks continued, and horrible were the sights witnessed by the survivors.  The harbour was covered with floating human bodies--not only those of the victims of the previous day, but the corpses washed up from the cemetery; while some poor wretches had been caught in yawning fissures, which held them prisoners, only their heads above ground--and these had, in some cases, been gnawed by ravenous dogs.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:</p><P>Of the whole town, only about two hundred houses were left standing, and most of these were houses built on posts, and only one storey high.  Such brick houses as survived the great shock, were so shaken and shattered that the majority fell within a few days.  Slight shocks were felt at intervals for upwards of a month, and pestilential exhalations arose from innumerable fissures in the ground.  A sensible increase in temperature was observed.  The heavens became lurid by reason of the discharge of sulphurous vapours, and unparalleled swarms of mosquitoes appeared on the scene to vex the survivors, the majority of whom fled to the plains of Liguanea, where they built wretched huts, and there abode, exposed to sun and rain, half starved, and inhaling such noxious vapours that a pestilence broke out, which extended to other districts, and carried off about three thousand persons--so that they who died of this plague were more in number than they who perished by the earthquake.</p><P>Such is the lamentable history of a city founded on the sand!</p><P>Long may San Francisco be spared from a similar fate!  <HI REND="italics"></HI>
127.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">Reference to page 167.</HI>
127.sgm:</p><P>While these pages are passing through the press, another train has been attacked by white brigands.  One Sunday morning in the month of September, a gang of "cowboys" attacked the express train on the Atchison, Topoka, and Santa Fe&acute; Railway, at Coolidge, west of Dodge City, Kansas.  They opened fire on the train hands, killed the driver, and fatally wounded the stoker.  They fired several shots at the guard, who, however, escaped injury.  They then endeavoured to break into the express car, but were repulsed, and, an alarm being given, they decamped.  The travelling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:correspondent of the `Daily News' states that the attack took place an hour after midnight, while the train had stopped to take in water.  The passengers in the sleeping-car had all turned in, and the other passengers were more or less comfortably sleeping.  Suddenly a shot was fired, followed by another, and then came what appeared to be a regular fusilade.  Some of the passengers who were armed turned out, but the rattle of pistol-shots ceased as suddenly as it had commenced, and they found only the engine-driver lying dead at his post, riddled with shots, and the fireman close by, apparently fatally wounded.  They learned from the fireman that as soon as the engine pulled up, a gang of men jumped on and ordered the driver to leave the engine.  He refused, and they shot him dead.  Two men who remained blazed away at the fireman, while the rest went off in search of the treasure which they believed was in charge of the express messenger.  The firing had put this man on his guard.  He barricaded the doors of his car, and through the window fired on the highwaymen, who vigorously returned the shots, but without effect.  The appearance of the passengers on the scene suggested the wisdom of flight, and the robbers rode off without any other result of their raid than the murder of the hapless engine-driver.  Coolidge is a little roadside station near the confines of Kansas, with nothing at hand but a water-tank and a telegraphic apparatus.  This last was called into requisition, and a message was sent off to Dodge City.  Thence a special train was promptly despatched with the sheriff and a band of armed citizens, but the highwaymen had already got a four hours' start, and it is presumable that they had well considered their plan of escape.  It is believed that they have crossed into Colorado and made for the mountains.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Reference to page</HI>
127.sgm: 197.--" <HI REND="italics">Preserved Smiths</HI>
127.sgm:."</p><P>Such designations were by no means uncommon among the Puritans.  The Frewens of Sussex bestowed on their children such names as "Thankful" and "Accepted."  A member of this family, Archbishop <HI REND="italics">Accepted</HI>
127.sgm: Frewen--A.D. 1660--lies buried under the east window of the Lady Chapel in York Minster.  The ladies of the family were graced by such names as Mercy and Prudence, Faith, Hope, and Charity.</p><P>No doubt Miss Heavensent Harwood and Miss Remarkable Pettibones bore their strange names as pleasantly as though their godmothers had started them in life as Molly and Dolly.</p><P>David Hume, the historian, has told us that some of Cromwell's saints, rejecting such unregenerate names as Henry, Edward, or William, sometimes adopted a whole godly sentence.  Thus the brother of "Praise-God Barebones" decided on being called "If-Christ-had-not-died-for-you-you-had-been-damned Barebones."  But the people soon wearied of this long name, and so retained only the last word.  Hence he was commonly known as "Damned Barebones!!"  Thus John Bradford, in assuming the name of "Blood-bought," proved the wisdom of brevity.</p><P>Hume gives the names of eighteen persons who were impannelled as a jury in Sussex, in the days of the Commonwealth.  They were as follows:--<LB>Accepted Trevor, of Norsham.<LB>Be-faithful Joiner, of Britling.<LB>Called Lower, of Warbleton.<LB>Earth Adams, of Warbleton.<LB>Faint-not Hewit, of Heathfield.<LB>Fly-debate Roberts, of Briling.<LB>Fight-the-good-fight-of-faith White, of Emer.<LB>God-reward Smart, of Fivehurst.<LB>Graceful Harding, of Lewes.<LB>Hope-for Bending, of East Halley.<LB>Kill-sin Pimple, of Witham.<LB>More-fruit Fowler, of East Halley.<LB>Meek Brewer, of Okeham.<LB>Make-peace Heaton, of Hare.<LB>Return Spelman, of Watling.<LB>Standfast-on-high Stringer, of Cowhurst.<LB>Redeemed Compton, of Battle.<LB>Weep-not Billing, of Lewes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">Reference to page</HI>
127.sgm: 198.</p><P>As an instance of the laxity of the law of divorce in many of the States, a New York paper recently quoted the case of a man who had fled from his wife in England, and who, on arriving in one of the Western States, instituted proceedings of divorce against her.  She was summoned by notice, which was published for three consecutive weeks in a local newspaper.  Before the woman had time even to receive notice of the proceedings, the man obtained his legal divorce.</p><P>I may add that a precisely similar case has occurred within my own knowledge, where a man left his respectable wife and family in Scotland, went to America, and was no more heard of by his relations.  In the New World he went through this singular form of divorce, married a new wife, by whom he has a second family.<LB>THE END.</p><P>PRINTED BY WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<DIV><P>PHILOSOPHICAL CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS.</p><P>EDITED BY WILLIAM KNIGHT, LL.D.,</p><P>Professor of Moral Philosophy in the University of St Andrews.</p><P>In crown 8vo Volumes, with Portraits, price 3s. 6d.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Now ready</HI>
127.sgm: --</p><P>I. Descartes.  By Professor MAHAFFY, Dublin.</p><P>II. Butler.  By Rev. W. LUCAS COLLINS, M.A.</p><P>III. Berkeley.  By Professor FRASER, Edinburgh.</p><P>IV. Fichte.  By Professor ADAMSON, Owens College, Manchester.</p><P>V. Kant.  By Professor WALLACE, Oxford.</p><P>VI. Hamilton.  By Professor VEITCH, Glasgow.</p><P>VII. Hegel.  By Professor EDWARD CAIRD, Glasgow.</p><P><HI REND="italics">The Volumes in preparation are</HI>
127.sgm: --</p><P>VICO.  By Professor Flint, Edinburgh.</p><P>SPINOZA.  By the Very Rev. Principal Caird, Glasgow.</p><P>HOBBES.  By Professor Croom Robertson, London.</p><P>HUME.  By the Editor.</p><P>BACON.  By Professor Nichol, Glasgow.</p><P>IN COURSE OF PUBLICATION.</p><P>FOREIGN CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS.</p><P>EDITED BY MRS OLIPHANT.</p><P>In Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.</p><P><HI REND="italics">The Volumes published are</HI>
127.sgm: --</p><P>DANTE.  By the Editor.</p><P>VOLTAIRE.  By Major-General Sir E. B. Hamley, K.C.M.G.</p><P>PASCAL.  By Principal Tulloch</p><P>PETRARCH.  By Henry Reeve, C.B.</p><P>GOETHE.  By A. Hayward, Q.C.</p><P>MOLIE&grave;RE.  By the Editor and F. Tarver, M.A.</p><P>MONTAIGNE.  By Rev. W.L. Collins, M.A.</p><P>RABELAIS.  By Walter Besant, M.A.</p><P>CALDERON.  By E.J. Hasell.</p><P>SAINT SIMON.  By Clifton W. Collins, M.A.</p><P>CERVANTES.  By the Editor.</p><P>CORNEILLE AND RACINE.  By Henry M. Trollope.</p><P>MADAME DE SE&acute;VIGNE&acute;.  By Miss Thackeray.</p><P>LA FONTAINE, AND OTHER FRENCH FABULISTS.  By Rev. W. Lucas Collins, M.A.</p><P>SCHILLER.  By James Sime, M.A., Author of ` Lessing: his Life and Writings.'</p><P>TASSO.  By E. J. Hasell.</p><P>ROUSSEAU.  By Henry Grey Graham.</p><P><HI REND="italics">In preparation</HI>
127.sgm: --LEOPARDI, by the Editor.  ALFRED DE MUSSET, by C. F. Oliphant.</p><P>NOW COMPLETE.</p><P>ANCIENT CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS,</p><P>EDITED BY THE REV. W. LUCAS COLLINS, M.A.</p><P>Complete in 28 Vols. crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d. each. And may also be had in 14 Volumes, strongly and neatly bound, with calf or vellum back, &pound;3, 10s.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday Review</HI>
127.sgm:.--"It is difficult to estimate too highly the value of such a series as this in giving `English readers' an insight, exact as far as it goes, into those olden times which are so remote and yet to many of us so close."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>CATALOGUE</p><P>OF</p><P>MESSRS BLACKWOOD &amp; SONS'</p><P><HI REND="italics">PUBLICATIONS</HI>
127.sgm:.</p><P>ALISON.  History of Europe.  By Sir ARCHIBALD ALISON, Bart., D.C.L.</p><P>1.  From the Commencement of the French Revolution to the Battle of Waterloo.</p><P>LIBRARY EDITION, 14 vols., with Portraits.  Demy 8vo, &pound;10, 10s.</p><P>ANOTHER EDITION, in 20 vols. crown 8vo, &pound;6.</p><P>PEOPLE'S EDITION, 13 vols. crown 8vo, &pound;2, 11s.</p><P>2.  Continuation to the Accession of Louis Napoleon.</p><P>LIBRARY EDITION, 8 vols. 8vo, &pound;6, 7s. 6d.</p><P>PEOPLE'S EDITION, 8 vols. crown 8vo, 34s.</p><P>3.  Epitome of Alison's History of Europe.  Twenty-ninth Thousand, 7s. 6d.</p><P>4.  Atlas to Alison's History of Europe.  By A. Keith Johnston.</p><P>LIBRARY EDITION, demy 4to, &pound;3, 3s.</p><P>PEOPLE'S EDITION, 31s. 6d.</p><P>--Some Account of my Life and Writings: an Autobiography of the late Sir Archibald Alison, Bart., D.C.L.  Edited by his Daughter-in-law, LADY ALISON.  New and Cheaper Edition, with Portrait engraved on Steel.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">In the Press</HI>
127.sgm:.]</p><P>--Life of John Duke of Marlborough.  With some Account of his Contemporaries, and of the War of the Succession.  Third Edition, 2 vols. 8vo.  Portraits and Maps, 30s.</p><P>--Essays: Historical, Political, and Miscellaneous.  3 vols. demy 8vo, 45s.</p><P>--Lives of Lord Castlereagh and Sir Charles Stewart, Second and Third Marquesses of Londonderry.  From the Original Papers of the Family.  3 vols. 8vo, &pound;2, 2s.</p><P>ALIRABI; or, The Banks and Bankers of the Nile.  By a HADJI OF HYDE PARK.  Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d.</p><P>ADAMS.  Great Campaigns.  A Succinct Account of the Principal Military Operations which have taken place in Europe from 1796 to 1870.  By Major C. ADAMS, Professor of Military History at the Staff College.  Edited by Captain C. COOPER KING, R.M. Artillery, Instructor of Tactics, Royal Military College.  8vo, with Maps.  16s.</p><P>AIRD.  Poetical Works of Thomas Aird.  Fifth Edition, with Memoir of the Author by the Rev. JARDINE WALLACE, and Portrait. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d.</p><P>ALFORD.  The Romance of Coombehurst.  By E. M. ALFORD.  Author of `Honor,' Netherton-on-Sea,' `The Fair Maid of Taunton,' &amp;c  In 2 vols., post 8vo.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">In the Press</HI>
127.sgm:.]</p><P>ALLARDYCE.  The City of Sunshine.  By ALEXANDER ALLARDYCE.  Three vols. post 8vo, &pound;1, 5s. 6d.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>ALLARDYCE.  Memoir of the Honourable George Keith Elphinstone, K. B., Viscount Keith of Stonehaven Marischal, Admiral of the Red.  One vol. 8vo, with Portrait, Illustrations, and Maps.  21s.</p><P>ANCIENT CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS.  Edited by Rev. W. LUCAS COLLINS, M.A.  Complete in 28 vols., cloth, 2s. 6d. each; or in 14 vols., tastefully bound, with calf or vellum back, &pound;3, 10s.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Contents of the Series</HI>
127.sgm:;, square 8vo, 5s.</p><P>BATTLE OF DORKING.  Reminiscences of a Volunteer.  From `Blackwood's Magazine.'  Second Hundredth Thousand.  6d.</p><P>BY THE SAME AUTHOR.</p><P>The Dilemma.  Cheap Edition.  Crown 8vo, 6s.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>BEDFORD.  The Regulations of the Old Hospital of the Knights of St John at Valetta.  From a Copy Printed at Rome, and preserved in the Archives of Malta; with a Translation, Introduction, and Notes Explanatory of the Hospital Work of the Order.  By the Rev. W. K. R. BEDFORD, one of the Chaplains of the Order of St John in England.  Royal 8vo, with Frontispiece, Plans, &amp;c., 7s. 6d.</p><P>BESANT.  The Revolt of Man.  By WALTER BESANT, M.A. Sixth Edition.  Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.</p><P>--Readings from Rabelais.  In one volume, post 8vo.  [ <HI REND="italics">In the Press</HI>
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127.sgm:<P>BUTE.  The Altus of St Columba.  With a Prose Paraphrase and Notes.  In paper cover, 2s. 6d.</p><P>BUTT.  Miss Molly.  By BEATRICE MAY BUTT.  Cheap Edition, 2s.</p><P>--Delicia.  By the Author of `Miss Molly.'  Fourth Edition.  Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d.</p><P>--Geraldine Hawthorne: A Sketch.  By the Author of `Miss Molly.'  Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d.</p><P>CAIRD.  Sermons.  By JOHN CAIRD, D.D., Principal of the University of Glasgow.  Fourteenth Thousand.  Fcap. 8vo, 5s.</p><P>--Religion in Common Life.  A Sermon preached in Crathie Church, October 14, 1855, before Her Majesty the Queen and Prince Albert.  Published by Her Majesty's Command.  Cheap Edition, 3d.</p><P>CAMERON.  Gaelic Names of Plants (Scottish and Irish).  Collected and Arranged in Scientific Order, with Notes on their Etymology, their Uses, Plant Superstitions, &amp;c., among the Celts, with copious Gaelic, English, and Scientific Indices.  By JOHN CAMERON, Sunderland.  8vo, 7s. 6d.</p><P>CAMPBELL, Life of Colin, Lord Clyde.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
127.sgm: General SHADWELL, at page 20.</p><P>CAMPBELL.  Sermons Preached before the Queen at Balmoral.  By the Rev. A. A. CAMPBELL, Minister of Crathie.  Published by Command of Her Majesty.  Crown 8vo, 4s. 6d.</p><P>CARLYLE.  Autobiography of the Rev. Dr. Alender Carlyle, Minister of Inveresk.  Containing Memorials of the Men and Events of his Time.  Edited by JOHN HILL BURTON.  8vo.  Third Edition, with Portrait, 14s.</p><P>CARRICK.  Koumiss; or, Fermented Mare's Milk: and its Uses in the Treatment and Cure of Pulmonary Consumption, and other Wasting Diseases.  With an Appendix on the best Methods of Fermenting Cow's Milk.  By GEORGE L. CARRICK, M.D., L.R.C.S.E. and L.R.C.P.E., Physician to the British Embassy, St Petersburg, &amp;c.  Crown 8vo, 10s. 6d.</p><P>CAUVIN.  A Treasury of the English and German Languages.  Compiled from the best Authors and Lexicographers in both Languages.  Adapted to the Use of Schools, Students, Travellers, and Men of Business; and forming a Companion to all German-English Dictionaries.  By JOSEPH CAUVIN, LL.D. &amp; Ph.D., of the University of Go&die;ttingen, &amp;c.  Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d.</p><P>CAVE-BROWN.  Lambeth Palace and its Associations.  By J. CAVE-BROWN, M.A., Vicar of Detling, Kent, and for many years Curate of Lambeth Parish Church.  With an Introduction by the Archbishop of Canterbury.  Second Edition, containing an additional Chapter on Medieval Life in the Old Palaces.  8vo, with Illustrations.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">In the Press</HI>
127.sgm:.]</p><P>CHARTERIS.  Canonicity; or, Early Testimonies to the Existence and Use of the Books of the New Testament.  Based on Kirchhoffer's `Quellensammlung.'  Edited by A. H. CHARTERIS, D.D., Professor of Biblical Criticism in the University of Edinburgh.  8vo, 18s.</p><P>CHEVELEY NOVELS, THE.</p><P>I.  A MODERN MINISTER.  2 vols. bound in cloth, with Twenty-six Illustrations.  17s.</p><P>II.  SAUL WEIR.  2 vols. bound in cloth.  With Twelve Illustrations by F. Barnard.  16s.</p><P>III.  DORA DORE&acute;E.<HSEP>[<HI REND="italics">In Preparation</HI>
127.sgm:.]</p><P>CHIROL.  'Twixt Greek and Turk.  By M. VALENTINE CHIROL.  Post 8vo.  With Frontispiece and Map, 10s. 6d.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>FOREIGN CLASSICS FOR ENGLISH READERS.  Edited by Mrs OLIPHANT.  Price 2s. 6d.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Now published</HI>
127.sgm::--</p><P>DANTE.  By the Editor.</p><P>VOLTAIRE.  By Major-General Sir E. B. Hamley, K.C.M.G.</p><P>PASCAL.  By Principal Tulloch.</p><P>PETRARCH.  By Henry Reeve, C.B.</p><P>GOETHE.  By A. Hayward, Q.C.</p><P>MOLIE&grave;RE.  By the Editor and F. Tarver, M.A.</p><P>MONTAIGNE.  By Rev. W. L. Collins, M.A.</p><P>RABELAIS.  By Walter Besant, M.A.</p><P>CALDERON.  By E. J. Hasell.</p><P>SAINT SIMON.  By Clifton W. Collins, M.A.</p><P>CERVANTES.  By the Editor.</p><P>CORNEILLE AND RACINE.  By Henry M. Trollope.</p><P>MADAME DE SE&acute;VIGNE&acute;.  By Miss Thackeray.</p><P>LA FONTAINE, AND OTHER FRENCH FABULISTS.  By Rev. W. L. Collins, M.A.</p><P>SCHILLER.  By James Sime, M.A., Author of `Lessing: his Life and Writings.'</p><P>TASSO.  By E.J. Hasell.</p><P>ROUSSEAU.  By Henry Grey Graham.</p><P><HI REND="italics">In preparation</HI>
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127.sgm:<P>HANDY HORSE-BOOK; or, Practical Instructions in Riding, Driving, and the General Care and Management of Horses.  By `MAGENTA.'  Ninth Edition, with 6 Engravings, 4s. 6d.</p><P>BY THE SAME.</p><P>Our Domesticated Dogs: their Treatment in reference to Food, Diseases, Habits, Punishment, Accomplishments.  Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.</p><P>HARBORD.  Definitions and Diagrams in Astronomy and Navigation.  By the Rev. J. B. HARBORD, M.A., Assistant Director of Education, Admiralty.  1s.</p><P>--Short Sermons for Hospitals and Sick Seamen.  Fcap. 8vo, cloth, 4s. 6d.</p><P>HARDMAN.  Scenes and Adventures in Central America.  Edited by FREDERICK HARDMAN.  Crown 8vo. 6s.</p><P>HASELL.  Bible Partings.  By E. J. HASELL.  Crown 8vo. [ <HI REND="italics">In the Press</HI>
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127.sgm:<P>JAMIESON.  The Laird's Secret.  By J. H. JAMIESON.  In 2 vols. crown 8vo, 17s.</p><P>JEAN JAMBON.  Our Trip to Blunderland; or, Grand Excursion to Blundertown and Back.  By JEAN JAMBON.  With Sixty Illustrations designed by CHARLES DOYLE, engraved by DALZIEL.  Fourth Thousand.  Handsomely bound in cloth, gilt edges, 6s. 6d.  Cheap Edition, cloth, 3s. 6d.  In boards, 2s. 6d.</p><P>JOHNSON.  The Scots Musical Museum.  Consisting of upwards of Six Hundred Songs, with proper Basses for the Pianoforte.  Originally published by JAMES JOHNSON: and now accompanied with Copious Notes and Illustrations of the Lyric Poetry and Music of Scotland, by the late WILLIAM STENHOUSE; with additional Notes and Illustrations, by DAVID LAING and C. K. SHARPE.  4 vols. 8vo, Roxburghe binding, &pound;2, 12s. 6d.</p><P>JOHNSTON.  The Chemistry of Common Life.  By Professor J. F. W. JOHNSTON.  New Edition, Revised, and brought down to date.  By ARTHUR HERBERT CHURCH, M.A. Oxon.; Author of `Food: its Sources, Constituents, and Uses;' `The Laboratory Guide for Agricultural Students;' `Plain Words about Water,' &amp;c.  Illustrated with Maps and 102 Engravings on Wood.  Complete in one volume, crown 8vo, pp. 618, 7s. 6d.</p><P>--Elements of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology.  Thirteenth Edition, Revised, and brought down to date.  By CHARLES A. CAMERON, M.D., F.R.C.S.I., &amp;c.  Fcap. 8vo, 6s. 6d.</p><P>--Catechism of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology.  An entirely New Edition, revised and enlarged, by CHARLES A. CAMERON, M.D., F.R.C.S.I., &amp;c.  Eighty-first Thousand, with numerous Illustrations, 1s.</p><P>JOHNSTON.  Patrick Hamilton: a Tragedy of the Reformation in Scotland, 1528.  By J. P. JOHNSTON.  Crown 8vo, with Two Etchings by the Author, 5s.</p><P>KEITH ELPHINSTONE.  Memoir of the Honourable George Keith Elphinstone, K.B., Viscount Keith of Stonehaven Marischal, Admiral of the Red.-- <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
127.sgm: ALEXANDER ALLARDYCE, at page 4.</p><P>KING.  The Metamorphoses of Ovid.  Translated in English Blank Verse.  By HENRY KING, M.A., Fellow of Wadham College, Oxford, and of the Inner Temple, Barrister-at-Law.  Crown 8vo, 10s. 6d.</p><P>KINGLAKE.  History of the Invasion of the Crimea.  By A. W. KINGLAKE.  Cabinet Edition.  Seven Volumes, crown 8vo, at 6s. each.  The Volumes respectively contain:--</p><P>I.  THE ORIGIN OF THE WAR between the Czar and the Sultan.</p><P>II.  RUSSIA MET AND INVADED.  With 4 Maps and Plans.</p><P>III.  THE BATTLE OF THE ALMA.   With 14 Maps and Plans.</p><P>IV.  SEBASTOPOL AT BAY.  With 10 Maps and Plans.</p><P>V.  THE BATTLE OF BALACLAVA.  With 10 Maps and Plans.</p><P>VI.  THE BATTLE OF INKERMAN.  With 11 Maps and Plans.</p><P>VII.  WINTER TROUBLES.  With Map.</p><P>--History of the Invasion of the Crimea.  Vol. VI. Winter Troubles.  Demy 8vo, with a Map, 16s.</p><P>--Eothen.  A New Edition, uniform with the Cabinet Edition of the `History of the Crimean War,' price 6s.</p><P>KNOLLYS.  The Elements of Field-Artillery.  Designed for the Use of Infantry and Cavalry Officers.  By HENRY KNOLLYS, Captain Royal Artillery; Author of `From Sedan to Saarbru&die;ck,' Editor of `Incidents in the Sepoy War,' &amp;c.  With Engravings.  Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d.</p><P>LAVERGNE.  The Rural Economy of England, Scotland, and Ireland.  By LEONCE DE LAVERGNE.  Translated from the French.  With Notes by a Scottish Farmer.  8vo, 12s.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>LEE.  Lectures on the History of the Church of Scotland, from the Reformation to the Revolution Settlement.  By the late Very Rev. JOHN LEE, D.D., LL.D., Principal of the University of Edinburgh.  With Notes and Appendices from the Author's Papers.  Edited by the Rev. WILLIAM LEE, D.D. 2 vols. 8vo, 21s.</p><P>LEE-HAMILTON.  Poems and Transcripts.  By EUGENE LEE-HAMILTON.  Crown 8vo, 6s.</p><P>LEES.  A Handbook of Sheriff Court Styles.  By J. M. LEES, M.A., LL.B., Advocate, Sheriff-Substitute of Lanarkshire.  In 1 vol. 8vo. [ <HI REND="italics">In the Press</HI>
127.sgm:.]</p><P>LEWES.  The Physiology of Common Life.  By GEORGE H. LEWES, Author of `Sea-side Studies,' &amp;c.  Illustrated with numerous Engravings.  2 vols., 12s.</p><P>LOCKHART.  Doubles and Quits.  By Laurence W. M. LOCKHART.  With Twelve Illustrations.  Third Edition.  Crown 8vo, 6s.</p><P>--Fair to See: a Novel.  Seventh Edition, crown 8vo, 6s.</p><P>--Mine is Thine: a Novel.  Seventh Edition, crown 8vo, 6s.</p><P>LORIMER.  The Institutes of Law: A Treatise of the Principles of Jurisprudence as determined by Nature.  By JAMES LORIMER, Regius Professor of Public Law and of the Law of Nature and Nations in the University of Edinburgh.  New Edition, revised throughout, and much enlarged.  8vo, 18s.</p><P>--The Institutes of the Law of Nations.  A Treatise of the Jural Relation of Separate Political Communities.  In 2 vols. 8vo.  Volume I., price 16s.  Volume II. in preparation.</p><P>LYON.  History of the Rise and Progress of Freemasonry in Scotland.  By DAVID MURRAY LYON, Secretary to the Grand Lodge of Scotland.  In small quarto.  Illustrated with numerous Portraits of Eminent Members of the Craft, and Facsimiles of Ancient Charters and other Curious Documents.  &pound;I, IIs. 6d.</p><P>MACDOWALL.  The Jews of Barnow.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
127.sgm: FRANZOS, at page 10.</p><P>M`COMBIE.  Cattle and Cattle-Breeders.  By WILLIAM M`COMBIE, Tillyfour.  A New and Cheaper Edition, 2s. 6d., cloth.</p><P>MACRAE.  A Handbook of Deer-Stalking.  By ALEXANDER MACRAE, late Forester to Lord Henry Bentinck.  With Introduction by HORATIO ROSS, Esq.  Fcap. 8vo, with two Photographs from Life.  3s. 6d.</p><P>M`CRIE.  Works of the Rev. Thomas M`Crie, D.D.  Uniform Edition.  Four vols. crown 8vo, 24s.</p><P>--Life of John Knox.  Containing Illustrations of the History of the Reformation in Scotland.  Crown 8vo, 6s.  Another Edition, 3s. 6d.</p><P>--Life of Andrew Melville.  Containing Illustrations of the Ecclesiastical and Literary History of Scotland in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries.  Crown 8vo, 6s.</p><P>--History of the Progress and Suppression of the Reformation in Italy in the Sixteenth Century.  Crown 8vo, 4s.</p><P>--History of the Progress and Suppression of the Reformation in Spain in the Sixteenth Century.  Crown 8vo, 3s. 6d.</p><P>--Sermons, and Review of the `Tales of My Landlord.'  Crown 8vo, 6s.</p><P>--Lectures on the Book of Esther.  Fcap. 8vo, 5s.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:, crown 8vo, 8s.</p><P>--Catullus.  With Life and Notes.  Second Edition, post 8vo, 7s. 6d.</p><P>--The Vita Nuova of Dante.  With an Introduction and Notes.  Second Edition, crown 8 vo, 5s.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:.]</p><P>PUBLIC GENERAL STATUTES AFFECTING SCOTLAND, from 1707 to 1847, with Chronological Table and Index.  3 vols. large 8vo, &pound;3, 3s.</p><P>PUBLIC GENERAL STATUTES AFFECTING SCOTLAND, COLLECTION OF.  Published Annually with General Index.</p><P>RAMSAY.  Rough Recollections of Military Service and Society.  By Lieut.-Col. BALCARRES D. WARDLAW RAMSAY.  Two vols. post 8vo, 21s.</p><P>REID.  A Handy Manual of German Literature.  By M. F. REID.  For Schools, Civil Service Competitions, and University Local Examinations.  Fcap. 8vo, 3s.</p><P>RIMMER.  The Early Homes of Prince Albert.  By ALFRED RIMMER, Author of `Our Old Country Towns,' &amp;c.  Beautifully Illustrated with Tinted Plates and numerous Engravings on Wood.  One volume 8vo, 21s.</p><P>ROBERTSON.  Orellana, and other Poems.  By J. LOGIE ROBERTSON.  Fcap.  8vo.  Printed on hand-made paper.  6s.</p><P>--Our Holiday Among the Hills.  By JAMES AND JANET LOGIE ROBERTSON.  Fcap. 8vo, 3s. 6d.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
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127.sgm:<P>ROSSLYN.  Sonnets.  By the EARL OF ROSSLYN.  Crown 8vo.  [ <HI REND="italics">In the Press</HI>
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130.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-130</TITLE>
130.sgm:<TITLE>Ranch life in California.  Extracted from the home correspondence of E.M.H: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
130.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
130.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
130.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
130.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
130.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
130.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
130.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>a15-1630</LCCN>
130.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
130.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>241500</COPYRIGHT>
130.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P><illus entity="a130-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece<HSEP>Our Ranch</HI>
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130.sgm:<P>RANCH LIFE</P>
130.sgm:<P>IN CALIFORNIA.</P>
130.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">EXTRACTED</HI>
130.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">FROM THE HOME CORRESPONDENCE OF</HI>
130.sgm:<P>E. M. H.</P>
130.sgm:<P>LONDON:</P>
130.sgm:<P>W. H. ALLEN &amp; CO., 13, WATERLOO PLACE,</P>
130.sgm:<P>PALL MALL, S.W.</P>
130.sgm:<P>1886.</P>
130.sgm:<P>(<HI REND="italics">All rights reserved</HI>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>LONDON:</P>
130.sgm:<P>PRINTED BY W. H. ALLEN AND CO., 13 WATERLOO PLACE. S.W.</P>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>A FEW words as to the writers of these letters.  George and Evelyn, aged respectively twenty-six and twenty-one, were married in the spring of 1885, and, accompanied by George's two brothers, Laurence and Bob, and a friend, H. B., they left this country for California, to seek there, if not fortune, at least a possibility of making an honest livelihood.  The three brothers had all been at Stock Exchange work, and had had no experience of any out-door labour; but they were athletic and industrious.  The young wife was simply a well-educated lady, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>It should be understood also that, after defraying the cost of their journey, their remaining capital amounted to about &pound;500; just enough to buy their little piece of land, build their house, and stock their farm with horses, cow, and implements.  Independently of what they might make by their labour, the party between them could only count upon about &pound;100 a year to live on.</P>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>RANCH LIFE<LB>IN<LB>CALIFORNIA.<LB>ON BOARD S.S.  <HI REND="italics">Britannic</HI>
130.sgm:.<LB>April 22nd.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>So far we have had a good passage.  H-- B-- and I have been very bad for thirty-six hours, but are now able to enjoy ourselves.  We could do it better if it were not so fearfully cold; for it is only 5 degrees above freezing, so sitting out on deck, in a bitter wind, is nearly impossible.  The food is excellent, and when we were ill, the deck steward brought us our food on deck, chicken-broth and beef-tea.  There are not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I had a hot sea-bath this morning, the first since I have been on board, as hitherto it has been too rough to career the whole length of the ship in hope of finding the bath-room vacant; it was delightful, as the difficulties of washing in our cabin are awful</P>
130.sgm:<P>The stewardess is very obliging, and brings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>I wish we could have begun our new life at once.  This inactivity, with nothing to do but think, makes us dreadfully home-sick.</P>
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130.sgm:<P>I am so afraid that I shall get that American sing-song voice.  I have caught myself doing it once or twice already.  It is fearfully catching.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>NEW YORK, April 26th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE have finished the sea part of our journey in safety, I am thankful to say.  We are staying at a cheap hotel, but it is very nice.  We have two large rooms--the boys' with three beds in it--for a dollar a night each room.  Our room is very large, and most luxurious after the cabin which we have had to inhabit for the last ten days.  We had the most perfect day for arriving at New York, as hot and sunny as if it were July.  The entrance to the harbour is so pretty; wooded hills on each side, with comfortable gentlemen's houses peeping out here and there, very different <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>When we got just into the harbour, a tender came alongside, bringing the Custom-house officers, and we all had to go into the saloon and declare our goods.  After that, we and our luggage were all put on board the tender, while the <HI REND="italics">Britannic</HI>
130.sgm: steamed into dock with the 800 steerage passengers.  They ran the luggage down a slippery board from the steamer to the tender in the wildest way.  One small tin box was sent down, and, before the men at the bottom could clear it away, a huge box like ours flew down and reduced the small tin one to a pancake.  Our arks all came safely, though they look very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>Every blessed thing was opened and ran-sacked!  Luckily we had a charming young man to do it; but when he found our spoons and forks, he had to find another official to examine them; and then we were trotted off to a third, to do some swears and pay some duty.  They priced the things low, so the duty didn't come to much.  I had to pay 30s. on my saddle.  Altogether, we only paid &pound;4 duty between the five of us.  You can imagine how dead I was after all that standing about in the heat, and repacking the things; and then, to my consternation, we found the barrel of china had been forgotten, and that had to be opened; but the head official saw my misery, and passed it all right without having it unpacked.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Mr. D--, our good friend, waited for us all that time, and got us a fly cheap, and saw us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IN THE CARS <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
130.sgm: TO CHICAGO.<LB>April 28th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE had a very tiring day yesterday fussing over the railway fares.  Of course we walked over Brooklyn Bridge, and the city looks very fine from there; but it is not to be compared to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>The common people all wear those absurdly baggy blue trousers like they do in France and Germany.  The railway, too, goes straight through the streets without any sort of paling or platforms.  In fact, I feel as if I were in Cologne again.  Food in New York, and also on board the cars, is awfully dear.  They charge 5d. for a very small glass of milk, and everything else in proportion, so we have to eat as economically as possible.  I believe we can go to the Emigrants' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:Restaurant when the train stops, and get fed more cheaply.  Our luggage between New York and Omaha cost &pound;5 extra.  George and I are in the Pullman, and the boys in a first-class carriage.  There are double windows to keep in the heat, and the hot pipes are under the seats; so we feel as if we were sitting on the kitchen stove, and I am very thankful for a cool dress to wear.  We are just having a sort of accident.  The train has been going backwards and forwards with most awful jerks.  The engine cannot pull us up a hill, and, after crawling up a little way, we are running quickly down again.  It is pouring with rain, and distracted officials race up and down the line!  I wonder they don't request us all to get out and walk<HSEP>After three awful struggles, we have crawled to the top!  In consequence of this delay, we were only allowed twenty minutes for our lunch.  The restaurant was a huge way off, but we raced to it and fell to.  Soup, chicken, beef, two sorts of pudding, tea, and we hurried back to the train just as it was starting, with bread and apples in our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 29th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>INSTEAD of arriving at Chicago at 8 A.M., we are four hours late.  We ran over a cow in the night, and it got so mixed up between two carriages that it took that time to get it out.  I slept soundly and knew nothing of what was occurring.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 1st.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE missed our train at Chicago and had to wait there for eight hours.  We walked about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:the place and to Lake Michigan; but the town was uninteresting and the lake ugly, so we were awfully bored and truly glad to get into our sleeping-car and go to bed.  The car was very full, but we were comfortable.  The next day our engine broke down and another had to be telegraphed for, so that made a delay of an hour, and we arrived at Omaha very late, and had a shocking struggle to get to our other train in time; in consequence of which they wouldn't let us send our luggage by freight, and we had to pay &pound;16 extra for it.  I do think, considering the price they make us pay for it, they might take a little care of the boxes.  They just fling them off the top of the trucks, and they are already nearly knocked to pieces.  The railway journey is not nearly so monotonous as the steamer, but I am getting more tired every day.  Eight nights in the train is rather terrible.  Today we are crossing the prairies and the great cattle ranches.  They look very dreary, with nothing but yellowy grass for miles, and the few houses here and there seem so lonely.  As <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:for the cattle, they are truly contemptible, so small, and their bones nearly through their skins.  I hope <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
130.sgm:<P>American women seem to be much more looked after than English; even a porter who was carrying our small luggage, would not hear of my carrying my own hand-bag; in fact he was so shocked, that one of the boys had to relieve me of it, as the porter was loaded with as much as he could manage.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>BETWEEN OGDEN AND SAN FRANCISCO.<LB>May 3rd.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THIS journey seems interminable.  It is horrible, not being able to undress for eight or nine days.  They heat the cars to such an extent, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>After we passed Cheyenne we saw some snow mountains, and we were ourselves at an elevation of 8,235 feet.  We had a gorgeous sunset over the hills, which were nearly covered with snow; it seemed so odd, as it was quite warm and we were all leaning out of window.  The snow came up to the railway track.  Next morning we woke in a hideous yellow desert, the only vegetation being a small grey shrub.  We breakfasted at Desert House, Green River, and lunched at Evanston.  After lunch we came to some very grand scenery, plenty of snow mountains and huge red rocks of most peculiar shapes.  The railway curved about between the hills, and we saw some very grand gorges; but, although much grander, I don't think the Rockies are to be compared to the Alps.  There is such a lack <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I have left this letter to finish this evening.  It has been piping hot all day; no air to be had.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WINNEMACCA, 463 miles from San Francisco.<LB>May 4th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>We have been stopping at the above station for nearly four hours, and, after amusing ourselves and having luncheon, we have returned to our car and are trying to write letters.  The thermometer is at 78 in the shade.  We have strolled about the town, which is quite a large one: 700 inhabitants, and several stores.  As <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:they supply the ranches 200 miles off, they naturally require a good supply.  Fancy having to drive your team 200 miles to get your groceries, &amp;c.!  One of the ranches at that distance from the town has 175 men on it doing the work.  We also did what will shock you terribly!  At the end of the town we crossed a river, and saw some boys bathing; so, as George and I were alone, we set off triumphantly down the stream till we got to a quiet spot, with only cows to look at us, and then we indulged in a most lovely swim.  The river was very swift, and quite out of our depths, even close to the bank, so it was very difficult to get out when once in.   We all feel the heat dreadfully in our thick clothes, and our bath was truly refreshing.  If we had not been so afraid of anyone coming, we might have remained in the water for an hour, it was so warm; but we were in a mortal fright of being caught.  I have enjoyed myself more this morning than I have since we started!  There are quite tall poplars in the town, which were only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>The boys got a bath, too, but they took it too near the town, and were reprimanded and threatened with prison.  A man asked them if they were New Yorkers, and, on their telling him they were English, he would hardly believe them, as he said they talked too well for English, who "all talk with a `haitch' and a `ho' and a `he.'" He was kind enough to tell the boys they did not talk badly!  We had a very good lunch for 25 cents (1s.) a head: soup, two meats, potatoes, beans, cabbage and beet-root, pudding, and apple-tart.  Everyone has separate little dishes for their vegetables, so one has one's big meat-plate in front of one, and a series of little oval dishes arranged all round; as a rule we have thirty dishes on the table at once.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>An Indian has just passed, with his face painted in bright red stripes; his hair is quite long.  The women are the most repulsive-looking objects, though they are clean and nicely-dressed.  There are about fifty going off by train from here.  Their wigwams are close to the station; but we did not visit them, as we were told they beg so inordinately.  They are not allowed to come inside the cars, even with the emigrants, but they ride on the top.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have come here to the land of Chinamen servants, and it is extraordinary what an aversion the Americans have to them; they will hardly go to a restaurant where they are served by them.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have had strawberries several times; they come up from Southern California, and are very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 5th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>TO-DAY we reached some real Swiss scenery: fir-trees going up to the snow-level, a lovely river rushing down the valley and turning saw-mills.  Everyone seems occupied with the timber trade.  We all sit on the steps outside the cars, so we get a good view of the scenery, and directly the train stops we all swarm out.  Even if the train goes on, it goes so slowly that it is quite easy to jump in again.  Directly we passed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PALACE HOTEL, SAN FRANCISCO,<LB>May 7th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>HERE we are, in the lap of luxury.  I never was in such a splendid and enormous hotel in my life.  George and I have a large bedroom, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>The last day on the cars was really enjoyable, as we passed through gorgeous scenery.  I cannot imagine how they ever built the line.  It was up above the snow level, and we passed for forty miles under snow-sheds.  They were made of timber, so we could see through the cracks, but it was enraging to get mere glimpses of a beautiful blue lake and snow-mountains.  The noise, too, as we went through them was deafening.  At the summit there was a little village, at which we stopped.  It must be unpleasant to live where there is snow on the ground all the year round!</P>
130.sgm:<P>After we got down below the snow level we came out of the sheds into entrancing scenery.  We had three engines on, as our train was very long, and the railway was most perilous, overhanging precipices, and going over bridges of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>When we reached this place, we had a bother with the luggage, and my box, on which I relied for clean clothes, did not turn up at the hotel till 4 o'clock, and, as I had got to the hotel by 10 A.M., I was rather hungry by that time.  I had my bath at once, as I expected my box directly, and I could not bring myself to put my clean body into my filthy clothes which I had been wearing for ten days.  There is a large courtyard to the hotel, paved with white marble, and we sit there in great rockers.  We have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">Note by Editor</HI>
130.sgm:<P>Here shall be interpolated parts of letters about the journey that were received much later.  Surprise was expressed by friends at home at the extraordinary length of time the journey had taken, and questions were asked which produced the following replies.]</P>
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130.sgm:<P>AFTER Omaha, we went by emigrant-car, which, though not bad for the men, was awful for a lady.  For the first three days there was only one other woman in the car, and she quite a common person.  Of course the men smoked all the way, and, as they were quite common lumbermen and miners, they smoked the most filthy stuff.  They were all exceedingly nice and polite to me, which was a great relief, as they looked so very rough.  Our rugs and my little pillow were very handy, as the seats were only plain wood.  The car is made on the same plan as the Pullman which George and I came in as far as Omaha, so I was able to lie down most of the time.  The washing accommodation, &amp;c. was dreadful.  Now you understand why my letters at first were rather doleful.  I did not intend to tell you about it; I thought it would worry you; but it is past and over now, and I sincerely hope never to go through anything so unpleasant again.</P>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letter from GEORGE on same subject.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>YOU ask Evelyn to tell you about the journey.  When we got to New York we went to all the different offices to see how cheaply they would take us across to San Francisco.  The Pennsylvania Company offered to do it for 122 dollars each, first class; the New York Central for 103 dollars; and the Erie for 111 dollars.  This we learnt from the agents, as they get your tickets cheaper than you can get them from the Company direct.  One of the agents advised us to go first class to Omaha and emigrant car on.  He said it was quite comfortable, and lots of American ladies did it; so, after a long consultation, we decided on that way, and bought our tickets, first class to Omaha and emigrant car on, for 60 dollars each, which was, of course, very economical.  As we were to have several hours at Omaha, we thought we could inspect the car, and, if we didn't like the look of it, change our tickets for first.  However, we got to Omaha so late that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:the other train had been waiting twenty minutes for us, so we were hurried into our car and had no time to change.  It was not so nice as we had been led to expect; so I saw the conductor, and asked if Evelyn and I might change into first class, but he refused unless we paid full price all the way from New York.  Considering we had come half way, we thought we could not possibly agree to being swindled like that, so we decided to go on as we were; but it was a trial for Evelyn.  The boys preferred it to first class without Pullman, because they could sleep so comfortably.  If ever you come out, you could get a ticket <HI REND="italics">via&circ;</HI>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letters from EVELYN continued.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>STOCKTON STREET HOUSE, May 8th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THIS afternoon George and Lawrence started off to see the Lake County.  They have met with a very nice Englishman, who is going to put them up while they look out for land and will help them choose.  We shall try and get some Government land, "homestead" land, for nothing.  Bob, H. B--, and I have come here, as it is less expensive than a hotel.  It is a sort of hotel, only they expect one to go out to get all meals except breakfast.  My room is 50 cents a night: it is small, but quite clean and comfortable.  The washing here is expensive.  A Chinaman charges 10 cents (5d.) a-piece for everything except handkerchiefs, and a white washerman charges just double.  Naturally, after three weeks' travelling, we have an awful accumulation of dirty clothes to be washed.  One great nuisance here is that the servants are much too grand to clean one's boots.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:boys get theirs done in the street.  The money here is so horribly big.  Twenty-dollar gold pieces are like five-shilling pieces, only twice as thick.  Food seems cheap here: we had dinner at a restaurant, and I had for 20 cents (10d.) a huge plate of roast beef, twice as much as I could eat, potatoes, asparagus, a cup of coffee, and bread and butter <HI REND="italics">ad libitum</HI>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 9th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THIS afternoon we made a little excursion to see the Seal Rocks.  First we went in the cars: they go without horses, but are hitched up to an endless rope, which revolves in a groove between the rails.  We went four miles for 2 1/2d. each.  They tear up the hills and down again at an appalling speed.  I forgot to tell you what steep hills this town is built on.  The pavements are boards, and in one street extra boards have to be nailed across to prevent passengers slipping, just like a gangway on to a steamer.  When we left the cars, we went in a train out to the Rocks.  It looked very like Ilfracombe; and we sat on some rocks in a little sandy bay for a long time watching the waves roll in, and could hardly realise it was the Pacific and that we were so far from home.  We saw the seals very well from the cliff, about 100 yards from the nearest rocks.  There were swarms of them crawling all over the rocks; it was a most curious sight, but they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SAN RAFAEL, May 13th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>I AM now staying with Mr. and Mrs. Stanley in a perfect little Paradise.  The house is quite a small wooden one and only plainly furnished, but exceedingly comfortable.  It has a verandah all round, covered with delicious honeysuckle, which scents the whole house and garden.  From my window I have a lovely view up and down the valley; the hills are covered with trees of every variety of green from the palest early spring green to the dark shade of the fir trees.  There are eucalyptus trees all along the roads, and there are several houses to be seen nestling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>The boys came with me yesterday to luncheon; we crossed the bay in a steamer, and came here by train; the railway runs through the valley.  George writes that he has seen an eighty-acre farm to be had for 1,000 dollars.  It has a house on it, and five or six springs of water, with pipes laid on, and it adjoins 160 acres of Government land, which one of the party could take up.  There is also a piece of Government land, 320 acres, to be had.  They are going to inspect them both.  I never knew anything like the cool way people shoot each other in the public streets at San Francisco: in the last few days since we have been there, there have been two murders in the streets close by us.  It is very dangerous, because they are so very likely to shoot the wrong person.  Imagine our having murders committed in Regent Street in broad daylight!  When they have nothing to do, the men seem to go out shooting each other for fun!</P>
130.sgm:<P>I am afraid this idle time is a bad preparation for the hard work in prospect; for there is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>It is so odd being eight hours behind you; in the afternoon papers we read the speeches that are made the same evening in the House of Commons, so it seems as if we read the speeches several hours before they are made.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Last Monday I went to lunch with the wife of Mr. D--, who was so kind to us at New York, and she took me to China Town.  Everything is very respectable above ground; but they have three stories underneath, where they live in the most utter filth.  Mrs. D-- went once with a policeman, and says she never saw such horrors.  We looked at their shops and went into their Joss House, where they pray to their repulsive old idol.  It was a wonderful place, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 15th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>MR. STANLEY has taken me to-day for a little excursion up among the hills.  The road was steeper than the Lynton one and full of rocks and ruts; I had to hold on tight.  Our destination was the most perfect little lake surrounded with hills wooded to the very top.  Mr. Stanley fished, but as it was windy he only caught eight or nine trout.  The red and the bright blue dragon-flies skimming over the water were exquisite.  We came back by a better road; part of the way ran along the top of a ridge, and we looked down into a deep valley on each side, such delicious fertile valleys, with clear streams running through them.</P>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>STOCKTON ST. HOUSE, May 17th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THIS is our last day in San Francisco.  We have received our marching orders and are to start to-morrow for Lower Lake.  This is the name of a little town on Clear Lake.  It's about ninety miles north from here.  They have not yet fixed on the land, but they hope to get some five or six miles from the lake.  George and Laurence are with Mr. M--, an Englishman, who is teaching them all sorts of useful things.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>BURNS VALLEY, LOWER LAKE, May 20th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE have fallen on our feet in this valley.  We are among a large number, quite thirty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>I must tell you about the journey up here.  We left San Francisco at 8 A.M., and after crossing the bay in the steam ferry, we came by railway to Calistoga, and from thence had to drive for six hours on the stage.  You never saw such a ramshackle old vehicle in your life.  It was a waggon with some sort of springs, I believe, and two seats, each large enough for two, into which were crammed six people.  I never was so shaken in my life, for the road was awful; quite as precipitous as any in Switzerland, and rough <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>It is extraordinary, too, how nicely the men keep their little houses; they are so pretty and so tidy.  They manage to cook quite good little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>The house is made of rough wood, plain boards with narrow ones nailed over the cracks to keep out the wind.  It is just the same inside as out.  There are two sitting-rooms, three bedrooms, and a kitchen, and two "cabins" out of doors, which are occupied by Miss May (Mrs. K--'s sister) and her brother.  There are also barns and stables, &amp;c., quite close.  It is beautifully neat, with lots of pretty things and pictures about.  One room is very cosy.  There is a verandah all round the house, which is pleasant to sit in, and when the garden is grown up, it will be lovely.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The climate is perfect; hot, but with a fresh breeze, and the nights always cold.</P>
130.sgm:<P>There are a great many young bachelors about, farming on their own account, and they seem to be always "dropping in" at one another's houses.  Yesterday, after luncheon, we walked to Mr. S--'s and found half-a-dozen men, who had "dropped in."  All the men seem <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:about six feet three inches high, and wear top boots, a kind of dark blue linen trousers, little striped cotton shirts, instead of a coat, over their proper shirts, and large flappy felt hats  They look queer, but comfortable, and everybody is <HI REND="italics">so</HI>
130.sgm:<P>Yesterday we killed a large snake on the verandah, quite a harmless one; but they all say there are rattle-snakes about.  I have not seen one yet; they are very slow, luckily, so one has time to run away.  The harmless ones look very squirmy; some of them are three or four feet long.</P>
130.sgm:<P>H. B-- and I have already begun farming on our own accounts, for we have turned our bodies into "chamois" pastures!  I was simply devoured on the stage coach.</P>
130.sgm:<P>There is no grass hay here, which seems very odd; it is wheat or barley or oats hay, cut when it is quite green.  They very rarely let their grain ripen.  It is being cut now, and I am thankful to say this sort doesn't give me hay fever.</P>
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130.sgm:<P>Our party and five other men are at this moment chasing a few sheep all over the fields, but hitherto the sheep elude all their vain endeavours, and don't seem to want to be shorn.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We breakfast at 7 and dine at 12, and have supper at 6.  The water is drawn out of the well by a mule, which is always going round and round in the most patient way.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 21st.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>YESTERDAY we went up to see a farm of 160 acres, which is for sale; and after tramping up and down hill in the sun, we went to dinner with two young men, who have a capital house, with such an exquisite view of the lake and the mountain on the other side, which is so like Pilatus, only not quite so big; it always is the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 22nd.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>I HAVE been doing some cooking to-day, and also starching and ironing.  The washing is awfully expensive, and I don't expect we shall be able to afford to send anything out excepting the large things.  They never iron their sheets here and no one seems to possess a mangle.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I have milked the cow to-day all right; yesterday I failed ignominiously.  She is so dreadfully nervous, the least thing frightens her and makes her jump and nearly kick the pail over.</P>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letter from George.<LB>May 23rd.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>I HAVE been waiting to write till we could tell you that we had fixed on a place, but we have not decided on anything yet.  I am afraid we shall not get any Government land, as all the land in this immediate neighbourhood that is worth anything has been taken up.  However, I sincerely hope we shall be able to buy land here, as everybody is so extremely kind and nice, and it will be so jolly for Evelyn if she can be near these English ladies.  We have seen some very good farms, but our resources are so limited that we have not been able to afford them.  We saw a splendid bit of land yesterday of 100 acres, with nearly a mile on the shore of the lake.  The owner wants about &pound;1,000 for it.  He would take &pound;200 down and leave the rest on interest at 6 per cent. for five years; but it would leave us too little capital to work with, so we had to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letters from EVELYN continued.<LB>May 27th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>I DROVE into town yesterday for the letters.  You would be amused at what they call "town."  It consists of a very broad street, in which are two stores, the post office, the hotel, a tiny Roman Catholic chapel, and a Methodist one, with a few houses scattered about.  The stores are such confusing places.  They sell everything, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>It is very disappointing to find that none of the Government land is worth having: it is all so covered with brushwood that it would cost nearly 40 dollars an acre to clear it.  Still, with great care, I think we shall make enough to live on for the next few years, till the grapes and other fruits begin to pay.</P>
130.sgm:<P>No English servant could be got to do the work that these English ladies do.  They begin at 5 or 6 in the morning and go on at it all day.  Excepting for a stroll in the evening, they very rarely go out anywhere at all.  It strikes me they work much harder than the men, who are continually sitting down in the shade for a gossip, while the poor women go on at it from the moment they get up till they go to bed.  You see there is so much more must be done than at home.  For instance, if you want water, you must either get the mule harnessed to the windlass of the well or else turn it yourself, and then bring the buckets of water into the house.  Children get dreadfully spoilt here, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>The rabbits here are called "cotton-tails," and the hares "jack-rabbits."  They eat up everything green in the most shocking way; the fences to the vineyards have to be made "rabbit proof" to prevent the little beasts getting in; and the worst of it is we can't eat them, for they are covered with sores, mange or something of the sort.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I must tell you of a clever dodge for cleaning knives which I have learnt here.  Scrape a bath-brick, and then rub the sand on to the knives with a raw potato.  The moisture of the potato makes the knives beautifully clean, and it is very little trouble.</P>
130.sgm:<P>You cannot think what a treat the letters are; ask everyone to write to me.  If one man goes into town he generally brings out letters for all the colony, and takes them round to the different houses.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I am so glad we didn't go South, as the lack <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 1st.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>OUR plans are a little more settled, for the boys have decided to make an offer for a farm of eighty acres close by here, which is for sale.  The land is said to be valuable grape land; but some of it will have to be cleared first, which, I am afraid, will be very hard work.  Of course the well has to be dug and the house built first of all.</P>
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130.sgm:<P>For the next month we are all going to Mr. White's.  There are two brothers, one of whom is going away for a month, and we are to feed the other in his absence and stay in their house: cheap rent, isn't it?  And we shall have all the milk, eggs, and butter off the farm.  I think it's a capital plan, as I shall get into the way of cooking and doing household work generally, and shall have Mr. White to help me.  I daresay our own house will be ready in about a month.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The heat is very trying, 108 in the shade.  I went down yesterday for a bathe in the lake, and at 5.30 in the evening the glass was at 94 degrees and the water quite warm.  We had a large picnic on Saturday, and for two days before were busy cooking; an undesirable amusement, I can assure you, what with the heat and the flies.  We were a party of forty-two at the picnic, including children, and all were English excepting two American wives of Englishmen.  It seemed odd to be here with such a tribe of English ladies and gentlemen, all so nice and pleasant.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:We started at 8 A.M. in waggons of all sorts.  A waggon here is not necessarily the great heavy thing one associates with the word at home, but a light cart with four wheels, holding two people in front and two behind.  On this occasion there were vehicles of all sorts, even the stage-coach with a team of four horses.  Mr. M. K-- drove me; he is a splendid whip, and took us along at a fine rate, notwithstanding the roughness and steepness of the roads.  Behind sat George and Mr. F--.  Odd, wasn't it, for two sons of K. C. B.s to be sitting side by side in a cart in this distant part of the world!  We reached our destination, Long Valley, at 10, and formed our encampment in a shady place by the side of the creek.  The creek was wonderfully cool and clear, and had green trees and shrubs and grass growing along its banks.  A delightful contrast to the dried-up appearance of everything near us, for it is the hottest and driest year anyone remembers.  We tried to get a bath, but the water was so icy cold that we had to content ourselves with paddling.  The land we were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 4th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>TO-MORROW we go to Mr. White's, and my work will really begin.  It will be such a convenience staying there, as it is close to our land and to the place we think of building on, if we can find water there, which is the chief concern.</P>
130.sgm:<P>There is an exquisite view of the lake, and the mountains beyond, from the spot.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The climate here is a regular swindle!  It is pouring with rain, and for two days has been so cold that we have huddled over fires.  The early mornings are always cold, which makes it doubly atrocious to get up so early.  I shall have to turn out at 5.30 or 6 to get breakfast for these hungry men.  They all eat mush for breakfast, the same as our porridge.  We have bought some stores and furniture to begin housekeeping with.  We paid 4d. a lb. for pounded white sugar (moist is cheaper, but it requires chopping up with a hatchet); 6 dollars for a barrel of flour containing 200 lbs.; 8 dollars for a set of springs for our bed, and 5 dollars for a wool <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>We are all engrossed in drawing plans for our house, which is not so easy to do when you are not able to have any passages, and all the rooms must open out of one another.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The rain is a blessing to put out the fire in the pine mountains.  It has been burning for about a week, and the smoke extends for miles and miles, covering the hills like a huge cloud.  An enormous amount of timber must have been consumed by it.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We shall be glad of any newspapers, but letters are the greatest consolation.  Do write every week and ask everyone to write often.  Don't send the <HI REND="italics">Sporting Times</HI>
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130.sgm:<P></P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letter from GEORGE.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE have bought a farm at last, about half a mile from the K--s.  Evelyn and I went up this morning and arranged about it.  It consists of eighty acres, all on a gentle slope towards the lake, and is certainly the most lovely spot about here as far as the view goes.  It is part of the farm of 160 acres belonging to Mr. White, so we shall have him for a near neighbour.  We are to pay 1,200 dollars for it, 600 dollars down and 600 dollars in three years.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I am afraid making money here will be a longer process than we expected.  Here as elsewhere, money makes money, and little can be done without capital; however, we must do our best, and as long as the money holds out we shall work entirely on our own farm, as, of course, every stroke of work done on it enhances the value of the place.  We have been already acknowledged to be excellent workers; Laurence and I have done some ploughing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<HEAD>Letters from EVELYN continued. <LB>June 7th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>HERE we are at Mr. White's, and I have been housekeeping for two days now.  We had a man to dinner to-day, so I was the only lady to six men.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Perhaps you will be interested to know that we had vegetable soup, which was rather too peppery, as the lid of the pepper box fell off just at the critical moment; then we had roast beef, a sort of joint I never saw before, so I cannot describe it.  It was not difficult to cook.  I simply put it in a tin in the oven with a pat of butter on its back; and when it was done, in about an hour and a half, I took it out and poured a little hot water over it, which made the gravy.  We also had potatoes and a sort of cream cake.  Yesterday we had fried beefsteak and onions, and a pudding of corn starch.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I made a splendid batch of bread the day we came, eight good-sized loaves, and they are all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>We stayed a couple of days with the B--s before we came here, and they took us for a most lovely drive.  In the midst of fine trees and beautiful scenery, we came upon the most desolate spot possible, a sort of Sodom and Gomorrah.  It was the second largest quicksilver mine in the world; but it is hardly worked at all now, the price of quicksilver having gone down so much.  The cabins were deserted, and it looked inexpressibly dreary.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have just been setting three hens, one on six turkey's eggs and two on thirteen hen's eggs.  I hope I shall rear them all right; but chickens <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:have awful vicissitudes in their little lives here.  They are allowed to run about all loose in the farmyard, and sometimes the hogs eat them, and the hawks and skunks look after them, so they have a bad time generally.  The skunks really are too disgusting.  The Scotch terrier here ran after one about the same size as himself, and came back smelling so awfully that we had to shut up every door and window in the house to keep out the odour.  This house is high up on a hill overlooking the valley, and yesterday I went down to Mrs. K--'s to get her sister, Miss May, to come and bathe with me in the lake.  On my way back Mrs. K--gave me a sack of carrots, turnips, and onions.  You would have been astonished if you could have seen me trudging up the hill, with my hair all flying loose in the wind, a huge hat on, and a sack on my back.  I was pretty hot by the time I got back, and no cooler by the time I had lighted the stove.  I had to get tea before the boys came back from town; also I had to chop some wood.  I made "scrambled eggs" for tea, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 9th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>I HAVE been working hard the last two days washing and ironing; but the boys helped me a good deal, or I could never have got through such an accumulation: six dozen pocket-hand-kerchiefs, one dozen shirts, besides all sorts of other garments.  There is a very fine wringer here which saves a lot of trouble.  Yesterday I got up at 6 o'clock, made the bread, which had been put to rise over-night, made the breakfast and helped eat it, washed up, and all the morning was washing, or cooking the dinner, shelling peas and peeling potatoes.  Luckily <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I have sent off to San Francisco for our dinner-service and glass.  Five pounds, which in England would buy a lovely set, will here only buy the thickest white delf, which an English servant would turn up her nose at for kitchen use.  I am so glad I brought a breakfast set with me, as the cups here are so clumsy, and half an inch thick.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 12th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>OUR boxes have at last arrived, and are arranged all round Mr. White's verandah.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Yesterday Miss May came up to teach me how to starch, which is a disgustingly difficult job.  I had lots of collars and shirts to do.  They are busy digging the well, which is over a splendid spring of water--for they have already come to water at six feet deep.  They have a regular well-digger helping them, as it is very difficult to build a well quite straight.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The first load of lumber has arrived for the house, so things are beginning to look quite hopeful.  We have engaged a carpenter to come for three weeks and build it, with the boys working under him.  I will send you the plan when it is definitely arranged.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We have only one cow here, and she is nearly dry, so we are always being left destitute of butter, as we do not get enough in from town to last very long, and then have to content our-selves with treacle.  It is so difficult to know what to cook when one has neither butter nor milk nor suet.</P>
130.sgm:<P>You would have been amused at my salad yesterday.  I had a quarter of a cabbage left (they are so enormous that they will not get into any saucepan whole), so I chopped it up small, and made a dressing of eggs, mustard, sugar, salt and milk; there was neither oil nor vinegar.  The boys ate it all up, and said what good salad it was.  We have plenty of vegetables, and I experiment upon them.  Beet-root is very good hot!</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 13th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THE well is finished.  It is ten feet deep and six feet across.  The house is the next thing, and the carpenter says, if the boys work well, it will be done in a fortnight.  I think it will be pretty comfortable; but we are only to have one sitting-room at present, and I am afraid it will be rather dreadful when they are all smoking of an evening.  Our bedroom will be a gorgeous apartment, 12 ft. by 18 ft.  We have so many pretty things, that I think we shall make it look very nice for a rough place.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The carpenter is to dine with us while the house is building, for which he will take two "bits" off his day's wages.  Two "bits" is 25 cents: of course there is no such thing as <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
130.sgm:<P>I wish very much we could have brought E. F--<ANCHOR ID="n13-1">*</ANCHOR>
130.sgm: to help me.  There is so much cooking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1">A girl friend of the writer's.</NOTE>
130.sgm:<P>We have had a very pleasant Sunday.  I cook the dinner on Saturday, so take a holiday, and to-day we have had a jolly ride.  The horses, you must understand, are cart horses, and my saddle-girths won't reach round the creature at the proper place, so we put the saddle very forward.  How we wish you could come here.  You would be surprised at the civilisation, after what one reads of life in the American cattle-ranches!  Why, even the bachelor establishments have table napkins at dinner!</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 26th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>ISN'T it enraging?  The money we sent to San Francisco for our dinner service and glass has been stolen on the way.  It was sent in greenbacks and not registered, so we have no redress.  Yesterday I took a holiday.  After washing up after dinner, I left the boys to get their own supper; but I cooked a huge pile of rock cakes, all of which they devoured.  Then I went for a round of calls on Mr. White's horse, and finally stayed to supper at the K--s.  They had friends, and we were quite a party in the evening, over twenty people, and we sang songs (they like George's and my singing so much), and were quite festive.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I am getting on with the work all right, but one cannot keep things very tidy in this house, there is no room to put away anything.  I intend to keep my new abode beautifully clean, and not let the boys do any cooking in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>H. B-- and I have been riding into town--whenever I say town it is Lower Lake I mean--to choose a stove, and, coming back, we saw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I bought to-day a box of apricots to make jam of; it cost one dollar, and there are 25 lbs. in it.  Last year they were a cent a pound.  Blackberries are the most expensive fruit.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 3rd.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THIS time last year we were all at Maidenhead together!  I wonder if we shall ever have such a happy time again.  It is very pleasant to look back upon in this hard-working life.  To-day is the last day of the Henley Regatta, and don't I wish we were there!  I have actually got some spare time to-day, as they have been so busy with the house that the cart has not been to town, and we are nearly out of provisions.  The cow only gives two small cupfuls of milk a day, and we have had no butter, only treacle, which I do not find appetizing.  The scum from the apricot jam was a pleasant change.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Next week I shall have another man to cook for, who is coming up to build the chimney.  It's rather horrid having them to dine with us, particularly when they spit on the floor; but it will soon be over.</P>
130.sgm:<P>George and Laurence and Bob have done all the roofing; ten thousand little oblong bits of wood had to be nailed on with two nails apiece.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The thing I complain of most is my feet swelling so much with standing about.  They feel as if I had chilblains all over without the irritation.  I ought to have had shoes two sizes too large.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Our little chickens are so sweet.  The hen we set on thirteen eggs has hatched thirteen chickens, such little pets.  There are eighteen altogether.  We feed them several times a day, and keep them carefully shut up.  We think of buying an incubator, and doing a great deal of poultry farming.  Generally about here the chickens run loose, feed themselves, and are devoured by pigs or hawks.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The floor of our new house is nicely planed, tongued, and grooved; and if only the workmen will refrain from chewing and spitting over it, it will look very nice.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<illus entity="a130-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">View of Clear Lake and Konocti Mountain from our Ranch</HI>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letter, same date, from GEORGE.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE hope to get into our house in about ten days.  It will be about the largest house in the valley, and commands a fine view of the lake.  The rooms are a good size, the sitting-room 18 ft. square, and the verandah 46 ft. long and 10 ft. wide.  The whole house and verandah is roofed with "shingles" made of the celebrated Californian red wood, some of which is exhibited polished at the Kew Gardens.  I daresay our roofing would be worth &pound;100 in England: it cost &pound;15 here.  The pieces are about 18 in. long, and vary in width from 4 in. to 15 in.  They are nailed on overlapping, and have the effect of tiling.  It took us five days to do it; it has to be very carefully done, as each shingle has to be picked out so as to find one to exactly cover the cracks in the last row.</P>
130.sgm:<P>It has been a great advantage to us to find such a good water-supply.  We shall have a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letters from EVELYN continued.<LB>July 8th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THE old man who is come to build the chimney is very quiet and no trouble, and eats about as much as a sparrow.  He asked Laurence if we "dressed for dinner!" as he had brought another pair of overalls.  These are blue linen trousers like the Swiss wear.  Wasn't it lovely!</P>
130.sgm:<P>I think it would be a capital idea to make a little book of our adventures.  It would give a good idea to intending emigrants in our class of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>They are thinking of planting olives, which pay well; but it will be four years before they bear.  Anyhow, the first three or four years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 13th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>TO-DAY George and Bob have been to Sulphur Bank, and bought a cow.  They drove her back the five miles, and the little calf as well.  The cow's name is Becky, and she is very large, white in colour, and very tame and affable in her manners.  I have persuaded George to let me do the milking.  He thought I had enough to do already; but we have made a compromise, and I am to give up washing-up after supper.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Wednesday.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I HAD to leave off writing on Monday, so now I am able to tell you that Becky is a great success; she is very easy to milk, and I like doing it very much, only that the calf is such a little nuisance.  It is supposed to have a third of the milk; but it will try to suck my hands while I am milking, and I have to beat it away all the time.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Did you know that calves were born with teeth?  I did not.  Becky is most quiet and gentle, and gives quantities of very rich milk.  The calf is shut up all day in a pen away from the cow, who roams about as she pleases.  When I milk her, we drive her into the pen, and when the performance is over we turn the calf out and leave the cow to her hay.  After that is finished comes the tug of war.  Nothing will induce the calf to go back, so we all five chase her about for perhaps half an hour before we can catch her.  Last night George got hold of her ears, and H. B-- of her tail, and, as they wouldn't leave <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I had such screaming fun yesterday.  The end of the verandah looks on to the "Corral," divided from it by a good high fence.  I was standing on the verandah, gazing at a lot of little black pigs guzzling beneath me, when suddenly the thought struck me to catch one.  There was a bit of rope handy; so I made a noose in it, and let it down with care and some trouble over a little pig's head.  In a few minutes the luckless little pig walked off and was pulled up abruptly.  He couldn't at all understand what had happened, and kept running away and being pulled up.  Then the rope caught in another pig's leg, and the two piggies kept falling over and biting each other, as if each thought it was quite the other's own doing.  At last, George went and undid them; and then, after tea, I tried the sport again, and caught a big pig, who pulled the rope clean through my fingers, and ran away, uttering the most piercing yells.  We all had to run after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I milk at a quarter to 6 in the morning, and at the same hour in the evening.  It is rather a tie; but I am more likely to be regular than either of the boys, and the same person ought always to milk.</P>
130.sgm:<P>This climate, or the hard work, makes George dreadfully restless at night.  He wakes me up three or four times with pouncing about in the wildest manner; and one night, when he was clawing about all over the bed, I asked him what was the matter, and he said he was catching the chickens!</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 20th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>YESTERDAY we actually went to Church!  A clergyman from San Francisco came up to see the K--s, and held a service for us all in the school-house, or rather outside it, as it was too small and too stuffy to hold us all.  There were about fifty present, so we gathered together under some trees.  The hymns went very well, as he chose some that are in our Ancient and Modern edition as well as in the American Church hymn-book.  They are forced to use a certain hymn-book, whether they like it or not, in the Church here.  We had Matins, Sermon, and first part of the Communion Service out of doors, and then went into the school-room for the rest of the service.  It was very curious having the service out of doors, with all the carts and waggons of the congregation tied up round about, and a few stray chickens wandering among us.  The horses must have thought their masters had gone mad!  It was a very long service, and we were not back <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I had got up at 5.30 to milk my beloved cow, but then went to bed again.  They all laugh at me because I think so much of my Becky, and say I think more of her comfort than I do of theirs!  The calf is a little fiend; it bit my finger so hard that it bled, and I had to finish milking with one hand.  I smack it hard now when it interferes.  It curls its body round the cow's hind legs so as to be able to whisk its tail in my face: it does it on purpose, because it knows I have to leave off milking to shove it away, and then it gets a suck.</P>
130.sgm:<P>My stove is come, and is a beauty.  It stands out into the room, so that one can walk round it.  It has six large holes at the top that have lids, which you can take off or not according as to whether you want your saucepans to boil slowly or fast; a boiler, and a large oven.  It cost 48 dollars; but that included two large iron stock-pots, one large boiler for clothes, three sorts of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We are going to have our sitting-room papered; and Mr. White drove us into town to the stores to choose the paper and the rest of the things we want for the house.  The chairs cost five shillings each, and are made of a pretty light wood; there were none of those lovely red ones to be got like Sir George Grove brought home.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We are all so anxious to get into our house, which we hope to do in a few days.</P>
130.sgm:<P>My greengrocer, Peter de Lucci, is such a pleasant fellow, an Italian.  To give you an idea of prices, I will tell you what we bought this morning of him for four bits (2s.).  Two vegetable marrows (summer squashes they call them), half a large bucketful of French beans, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I forgot to tell you last week that Becky and her calf cost 50 dollars.  It's dreadfully expensive to keep her.  A cow or a horse costs just double as much to keep as a man, when the hay has to be bought.  Next year we shall have grown our own hay, of course.  Becky has a box full of bran and salt and water and her hay twice a day.  Everyone scolds poor George for letting me milk; but it's such a pleasant change from housework, and it's absurd to say it is hard work, and that it makes one's arms ache.  It is as easy as possible.  You can't think how fat George and Bob are growing; but they drink such quantities of milk and cream, that no doubt that is the fattening cause.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We cannot make butter in this very hot weather.  Everything goes bad in the most rapid manner.  Even the yeast has to be renewed every three or four days; and half the week our fare is bacon, which Bob and I detest, so we are almost entirely vegetarians.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We have bought a pair of horses and their harness, from a man who wanted to go home, for 250 dollars, which is considered very cheap.  One of them will do for riding, but they are supposed to be for ploughing.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 31st.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE are in our house, but it is in an awful mess, and, what is worse, must continue so for another week or more while they are building the barn, for we must have our horses up as soon as possible.  It is so inconvenient having no horses of our own to send into town for our mails or any little thing we need.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I really am at my wits end to know what to provide to eat.  The tinned meat and salmon is very good, but too expensive to eat always, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>A neighbour here had a baby lately, and when Mrs. K-- went to see her, three days after the child was born, she found her sitting up in bed kneading the dough.  She had neither nurse nor doctor, only a neighbour with her at the time.  After a week, she was up and doing all the work as usual; and she is a slight, delicate little woman, a Canadian.  It is extraordinary how well people get over that sort of thing here.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I am so delighted to be in our roomy house, even though it will be some time before we get quite straight.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>August 6th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THE heat is tremendous!  This is the month for earthquakes; I hope we shall not have one to knock our house down.  They are still building the barn; and when it is done we shall be able to get rid of the carpenter.  This sort of work wears out the clothes terribly.  I sat down yesterday evening to a pile of thirty-six pairs of socks and stockings wanting mending, with holes the size of the palm of one's hand staring me in the face.  It is a bother having no fence up yet, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Mr. White bought me a lovely cow-bell for Becky when he was down at Napa, and I strapped it round her neck in the evening.  Next morning she turned up very late (as a rule she is always waiting for me), and she had been half milked, and the bell was gone.  I suppose some camper did it.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Everyone is burning their brush to make the feed good for the cattle, the result being that the view is enveloped in clouds of smoke; and it seems to make the heat still more oppressive.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We saw the most wonderful meteor the other night; we were sitting on the verandah, when suddenly everything was lighted up brilliantly, and this enormous meteor flew across the sky.  It was a sort of green, electric colour.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Mr. White's hog has paid us a visit, and turned over a very heavy coop with the little chickens in it, and devoured six of them.  We had a great desire to poison the brute.  H. B-- happened to ask for a glass of water at a neighbour's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>August 10th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>I HEARD yesterday that I can get a washer in the city for three dollars, so I shall send for one.  One of the boys will turn the handle if it is too hard for me.  What a pity there are not ironing machines too!</P>
130.sgm:<P>Last week was terribly hot; we didn't know what to do with ourselves.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The barn is finished to-day.  It has four stalls, a very large one for the cow, room for eleven <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Yesterday being Sunday, we had a holiday, and the K--s drove us to Cache Creek, where their sheep-ranch is.  They own about 2,000 acres and have about 3,000 sheep.  It was too lonely for Mrs. K--, so they came to live here.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The road was through lovely scenery--over-hanging cliffs on one side, and precipices on the other.  We had dinner at the M--s' and then drove on to the B--s', who live by an exquisite little creek.  There was such a quantity of wild vine growing about; we are going again, when the grapes are ripe, to pick them and make jelly of them.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We bathed in the creek; it was not deep, but deliciously cool and refreshing after the heat and dust.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Mrs. B-- persuaded me to relieve her of a pet lamb, which she had picked up half dead and looked after for three weeks.  The wasps were a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I brought my little lamb back, and it is a dear little creature, very tame, and follows me everywhere already.  It won't drink its milk without sucking my finger; but it has such sharp little teeth, I don't enjoy feeding it much.  It was called Baby, but I have changed it to Bimbi, after Ouida's story.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Our fellow-traveller from New York to San Francisco is coming to see us and spy out the land.  He can't stand the heat down south at Los Angelos, and the amount of irrigation brings on malaria.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Bimbi has been sitting on my lap like a cat would, and is now trying to eat some wood shavings.</P>
130.sgm:<P>When you send out small sums of money, the best way is to buy greenbacks in England and send them in a registered letter.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>August 15th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>I RODE into town yesterday evening, with H. B--, to get the mail. He has bought himself a very nice little horse, which he let me try, and he rode one of our cart-horses--an amiable old lout, rather like an elephant as regards size and temper.  The new horse goes splendidly, though it has only had a saddle on about six or eight times.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Bimbi is getting so fat and so fond of me, that she won't leave me for a minute, and bleats in the most piteous way if she cannot find me.  She lets me wash her, and is quite a companion to me.</P>
130.sgm:<P>They are now making an enormous tank over the well about ten feet from the ground.  The tank itself is about six feet deep, twelve feet long, and four feet wide.  There will be pipes from it to the house, and we shall be able to water the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>As there is such a drought this year, everyone's well is running dry; in town the scarcity of water is dreadful, and lots of families have camped out by the creek, which is about a mile and a half from town.  They all live in carts.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The K--s have had a bother with their well, but ours is full.  They say, in an ordinary year it will run over the top, and have to be drained off.</P>
130.sgm:<P>George has been making our bedroom comfortable.  He made a large hanging cupboard with a shelf at the top, on one side of the fireplace, and then we put up a board between that and the wall for a washing-stand, and covered it with American cloth.  It has a rail under it for towels.  Our chests make very good dressing-tables: mine stand one on the other, and George made legs for his.  Altogether it looks very comfortable, though we have not bought an elegant "suite."</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The heat is somewhat unbearable.  How I should like to be transported to the Engadine, in my astral body perhaps, for a week's refreshing.  The glass has been as high as 119 in Lower Lake.  And just imagine the joy of starching and ironing shirts!</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have all to contribute towards building a large room, to be used for services or musical entertainments.  I don't care much for the idea, as one is usually much too tired in the evening to go out anywhere.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letter from GEORGE. August 23rd.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE have been too busy lately to write letters, but I must now tell you some particulars of what we have done.  The house will have cost us rather over 450 dollars, the chicken-house about 10 dollars, the pump, tank, half-inch pipe to house and barn, 65 dollars, making the well about 32 dollars; the barn, 105 dollars.  In all about &pound;133.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The house is 44 feet long and 18 feet wide, without the lean-tos.  The lean-to on one side is a large verandah, 10 feet broad, and on the other side is the kitchen, store-room, &amp;c.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The barn is 16 feet by 22 feet.  It contains stabling for cows and horses, and on one side has a waggon shed, with double doors into the barn, so that one can drive in without unhitching the horses.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The tank is 4 feet by 12 feet and 5 feet high, and is raised 10 feet from the ground, with a roof over it to keep off the sun; it will hold about 1,800 gallons of water.  The water is laid on to the house and barn, there being two hydrants at the house; one outside the kitchen and one in the bath-room.</P>
130.sgm:<P>So much for what we have already done.  I am afraid we shall not be able to plant much this year, because of the expense of fencing, so we are going in for a chicken-ranch, which, as far as it goes, is very paying, and will enable us to go on with our improvements out of the profits.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Now for a few statistics.  We have at present 22 hens and 2 cocks, without counting the young broods, and for some time past have been getting 10 to 12 eggs a day, which we use ourselves.  Eggs are worth 30 cents a dozen, so, if we started this year with 200 hens and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We ought to get some big contracts in San Francisco, if we go in for a chicken-ranch on a large scale.  The cost of feeding, and of building enough chicken-houses, would, of course, be considerable, but could be done with little outlay in comparison with the return.  Of course, we couldn't buy 5,000 hens, but with incubators we could soon raise them.  An incubator with 70-egg capacity would cost about 70 dollars.  The price of eggs varies from 10 to 40 cents a dozen.</P>
130.sgm:<P>One thing I can assure you, we don't intend to sit down quietly out here.  We intend to make something pay, to enable us to come home again some day.  We have already made our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letters from EVELYN continued.<LB>August 29th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE had a splendid ride on Tuesday.  We made up a party of six, and Mr. S--lent me his horse, which has been used to racing, the consequence of which is that it always bolts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Our nice travelling companion, Mr. M--, has unexpectedly turned up; so the boys are taking a holiday, and have gone out shooting.  In his honour we bought some butter, the first we have had for over two months, and we enjoyed it so much.  If ever I get back to England and home comforts, I shall feel very greedy.  It is so difficult to cook anything nice without butter.  We had some lamb this week; it was very small, and about the consistency of boots!</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have finished our sitting-room at last; the paper is very pretty, and, what with our Liberty's curtains and Rose's lovely mantel-border, and all my pretty little ornaments, it is quite nice.  I wonder if you think of me when you see the Swiss women doing their washing and milking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Our happy family is very amusing.  The sheep-dog Nick, the lamb, and the kitten all feed out of the same pan at the same time, and they play together in the most absurd way.  The kitten seems very fond of Bimbi, and rubs up against her in a most confiding manner.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I have given in to the bachelor idea of having white American cloth on the dinner-table instead of a common washing cloth.  It saves a great deal of washing.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>September 6th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE have had a little picnic up to Cache Creek, intending to gather wild grapes, but the Indians had taken them all.  We had a pleasant drive there, excepting that the road is so appalling, and I was driven by a young man who drives full-tilt the whole way, whisks round sharp corners, and over all sorts of bad places.  We found a delicious deep pool in the creek, and had a lovely swim.  I came back in the heavy waggon, and was nearly shaken to death.  We started at 4.30, when it was only 99 1/2 in the shade!  It would have been cooler later; but it gets dark now quite suddenly at 7 o'clock, so we dare not put off our drive longer.</P>
130.sgm:<P>On Wednesday Mr. and Mrs. K-- came to supper.  We had salmon-cakes, cucumbers, beetroot and cream, mutton cutlets, tomatoes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The other night a skunk killed five hens, bit off their heads, and sucked their blood.  The next day they carefully blocked up the places by which he could have got into the chicken-house, and after tea George went to shut the place up for the night and found him inside!  He shut the door and yelled for a light and a gun; Bob and H. B-- rushed off with a gun and a revolver, and after riddling the beast all over with holes, they at last killed him.  The smell was simply appalling!</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>September 17th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>ON Tuesday we had another little dinner party; seven men and myself.  Our guests were bachelors, used to dining on one dish and cooking it themselves, and they just enjoyed their dinner.  I seem to be always writing about food and cooking; but you understand what an interesting subject it is to me just now from its novelty, and I must describe this dinner.</P>
130.sgm:<P>First, salmon cakes--it is the only fish I can get that is nice and dainty; then curried eggs, roast chickens, apple tart and custard, and Victoria sandwiches with sugar icing.  The chickens were an awful extravagance, but Adamson came round in the morning to say that he hadn't been able to catch his sheep on the previous evening, so he had not got any mutton for us.  It was a dilemma, as we couldn't have men to dinner and give them no meat, though, of course, we often have none ourselves.  It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>One of the kittens was found nearly dying yesterday; it was lying quite immovable.  I dosed it with brandy, and after lying for several hours in a drunken sleep, it got up and lurched about the kitchen in the most absurd way, and finally recovered.  I wonder what was the matter with it!</P>
130.sgm:<P>I shall be very glad when the winter comes, the heat is still so trying.  I ought to be ironing shirts at this moment, but my feet are so tender that I must rest them a little.  After a washing-day and an ironing-day, my feet feel as if they were just a bundle of nerves.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Next summer I shall arrange some outside blinds to the kitchen, like there were at that little Cha&circ;let between the glaciers at Saas Fe&acute;e.  Do you remember having coffee there?  The sun makes the kitchen so hot.  Our sitting-room is well shaded by the verandah, and keeps cool.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>September 24th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>IT has actually been raining to-day.  It came on to pour in torrents in the night, and has been showery all day, but quite sunny and bright between whiles.  You can't imagine how refreshing it is after the awful heat.  Only three days <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The rain has made all the pine-trees and the manzanita-bushes smell so deliciously.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Of course the rain put out all the fires, and, when the clouds rose, it was quite a treat to see the view which the smoke has hidden for so long; but there are now hideous black scars on the hills, where they have been burnt.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I have been lucky this week.  One day Mr. White drove me to town in his go-cart, just for the sake of the drive and the fresh air; and yesterday Mrs. B-- came and took me for a drive.</P>
130.sgm:<P>She gave a little party a few days ago, to which none but unmarried people were invited.  So George and I had a <HI REND="italics">te&circ;te a&grave; te&circ;te</HI>
130.sgm:<P>It's rather a bother milking Becky in rainy weather; I have to do it in the stable, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I want to get another cow after Christmas, when Becky will be giving less milk.  A young Jersey, with her first calf, would be nice, and then I could train her up to my ways.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Becky has got a little curly white fringe between her horns that you would covet.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Last night there was an eclipse of the moon, which the boys got up to look at.  It would take a good deal more than that to turn my poor old carcase out of my comfortable bed.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I am very thankful I brought a pillow, as the only ones we can get here are square little mattresses, most uncomfortable.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I have just bought fifty-seven pounds of apples to make jelly of for the winter; they were two and a half cents a pound.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I send you photographs of our house.  Poor Becky has come out minus her head.</P>
130.sgm:<P>You ask what we feed our beasts on.  Wheat-hay, for which we paid 12 dollars a ton.  It is now 17 dollars.  We bought five tons, and now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We shall do better for meat now the weather is getting cooler; we shall take half a sheep every week.  You asked, too, why we cannot eat the rabbits; it is because they are all covered with sores.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have had a misfortune with our chickens: we poisoned them with some tinned mackerel; five died, but the rest were dosed with lard, which cured them.</P>
130.sgm:<P>George has been poisoned too; he got poison oak.  It is a tree that affects some people horribly.  His arm swelled up, and he had violent headache, and felt queer all over, so he has not done much work this week.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Mr. S-- has been hauling a lot of gravel from the lake for us.  He had our horses as well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Oct. 9th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>IT's quite nice and cloudy to-day!  We English don't half appreciate the climate in England.  You cannot think how wearying it is to have nothing but glaring sunshine and almost unbearable heat for five months at a stretch as we have had.  A cloudy or rainy day now and then would be such a relief.  The variety at home <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We have got Christianson up here again.  He came to make a horse-trough, and to deepen the well; but instead of doing the latter, he has persuaded the boys to dig a new well quite high up on the hill.  If he finds plenty of water there, we shall be able to irrigate the whole of our land with no expense and very little trouble.  He uses the divining wand, and has traced the stream of water up from our well to where another stream joins it; and if there is any dependence to be placed on his willow wand, it ought to be a very strong stream.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Certainly this divining is very curious.  Mr. F-- had two wells pretty close together; but both had most disagreeable mineral water, and he wanted another for drinking purposes; so Christianson, who knew that there was originally a good well about a quarter of a mile off, traced the stream to right between the two nasty wells.  They dug there, and found plenty of good water.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I cannot understand it, as the wand does not act at all if you hold it over the water in the well; and it only acts with some people, not with others.</P>
130.sgm:<P>It is a forked twig, the ends of which you hold with the point sticking up in the air; and as soon as you walk over water, the top of the fork bends right over towards you.  It acts a little with me.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I don't expect we shall go in for grapes at all; they don't seem to pay unless you can keep three dozen men or so always working at the place, and have a cellar of your own, and understand wine making.  If we grew them in small quantities, we should have to sell them to the Water Company at a ridiculously low price.  They have a cellar and make wine; but as the wine sells for only 2s. a gallon, I don't see that there can be much profit for anyone.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Blackberries, gooseberries, and olives pay far better, and I expect that is what we shall go in for if we get this well for irrigating.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The chickens seem likely to pay best of all.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The people about here don't work so hard as our party does; and labour is so very expensive that I don't wonder they are not making much money.</P>
130.sgm:<P>One of our neighbours owns sheep, and, luckily for him, wool has gone up tremendously.  It is not so lucky for us, for, in consequence, no one will sell their sheep to be butchered; and our butcher has been to tell us that after next week he will have to give up selling meat, as he cannot get any to sell.  I cannot think what we shall do!</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have been so bothered with Becky.  On Monday morning she had vanished, so H. B-- rode over to Sulphur Bank, her old home, to see if she were there.  She had been there, but she came back only an hour or so after they had started.  Tuesday evening Bob did not latch the stable door properly, so the calf got out, and they both went off together till Thursday, during which time we were without milk and butter; and this morning the calf jumped out of a tiny little window and got all the milk.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We have had the surveyor here to see about our boundaries before we put fencing up.  It would be annoying to put them up wrong and then have to move them.</P>
130.sgm:<P>This morning I washed up breakfast, swept the kitchen and sitting-room, made the bed, made bread, did all the washing, and cooked a hot dinner for seven people between 7 and 12 o'clock.  Don't you think I was expeditious?  Certainly I find my work far less tedious than I did, and can do more in the time.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letter from GEORGE.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE have been hauling lumber to make our fences with during the past week, and we are going for some more again this.  We have also been trying to get water 100 ft. above the level of the house, so as to enable us to irrigate a large portion of our land; if we can get it, we can plant blackberries and gooseberries, which return 500 dollars or 600 dollars per acre, which is more than double the return of vines or olives.</P>
130.sgm:<P>But after going down 12 feet we have come upon tremendous rocks; and after spending a whole day chipping at them, we have decided to leave it alone till we have more time.  If we cannot get the water on the hill we cannot grow blackberries, which require 30,000 gallons of water every year per acre.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Any way, we shall begin by planting some olives in the rocks, and an acre and a half of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>It will cost us about 500 dollars to fence in what we hope to plant this winter, that is doing the work ourselves; it would cost 750 dollars if we hired labour for it.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The chicken ranch we still hope to make a success; but it will take some time to increase the number of fowls to what we want in order to make a really good thing of it.  We can't afford to buy 5,000 hens at half a dollar each.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The mill where we get our lumber is seventeen miles off, so we can only go every other day, as it is a long pull for the horses coming back with a waggon-load of wood.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We are paying 10 dollars a thousand for pickets to fence round the house and barn, and they all have to be sawn into a point at the top to prevent the chickens flying over.  They are put one inch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The other fencing further from the house we intend to make of three 8-inch boards and two 6-inch on the top, and a post every 5 feet.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Fencing like this is as near rabbit-proof as possible, though nothing will keep them out entirely, as they burrow underneath.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Meat is our great difficulty at present, but we expect someone will butcher in the winter.  We luckily got two legs of mutton last week.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letters from EVELYN continued.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>IF E. F-- is really thinking of coming out, I will give her some hints about her clothes.  She should have quite dark cotton dresses, navy blue or something of that sort; and she should have several loose white muslin bodices, a kind of loose dressing jacket, unlined.</P>
130.sgm:<P>When the glass is 120 in the shade, the cooler clothing one has the better.  Also be sure to have sleeves made loose, so that they will roll up.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Coloured aprons made of duster stuff are best; they don't look dirty so soon as white.  Shoes should all be thick, and, above all things, all be a size too large.</P>
130.sgm:<P>She should have an old ulster to put on the first thing in the morning, to milk in.  And remind her to bring a soft pillow, an unattainable luxury out here.</P>
130.sgm:<P>No, we have no mosquitoes here, which is a blessing.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The American papers are very fine.  I must send you an advertisement I cut out of one the other day.</P>
130.sgm:<P>CHOLERA! CHOLERA! CHOLERA!</P>
130.sgm:<P>When the Cholera comes prices will be high.<LB>Buy your Coffins early and<LB>AVOID THE RUSH.<LB>Seize this opportunity and get a good article, and one<LB>that will suit you.<LB>The undersigned has the finest Stock of Coffins ever<LB>offered for sale in this town.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Oct. 22nd.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THE rains have come so early this year, and everything is so thoroughly flooded, that I don't expect we shall be able to get any land ploughed till February or March.  Everyone is rather disgusted about it.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We can only get into town on horseback, and it's impossible to fetch lumber for the fencing, or anything, for some time to come.  The roads are a quagmire! and just in front of our house is a dreadful sort of place into which Mr. S--'s horse sank right up to its stomach.  It was dreadful to watch its struggles to extricate itself.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Thanks for the receipts.  I do all sorts of cookery that one's cooks at home never attempt.  Just now I have a pig's head, and am going to make a brawn.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Mr. White has just been slaying hogs, and has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I have not got over my disgust at touching raw meat, and especially "innards."  The liver was most repulsive to touch and cut up.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I have fifty little tarts to make, for a dance in the New Hall to-morrow night; but I don't think anyone can come, owing to the state of the roads.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We had quite a piece of excitement yesterday.  A man rode up to ask his way to Sulphur Bank.  He rode with his hand on his revolver, and told us if we saw a man on a big brown mare with double girths to keep out of his way, and fire at him, and we should be liberally rewarded.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The only description he could give of the man was that he was young.  Why, there are half-a-dozen men about who might answer to that description, and I should be sorry to shoot at anyone in that casual sort of way.</P>
130.sgm:<P>He is supposed to be hiding in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>He has already shot two of the men after him; one he killed, and one he only wounded.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Last Sunday we had quite a pleasant day.  After morning service, Mr. B-- asked George, Laurence and me to dinner, after which we went on the lake in a tiny sailing-boat, and then went back to the B--s' to tea.</P>
130.sgm:<P>They have eight fat dumplings of fox terrier pups, only a fortnight old, and most fascinating.  When their cheeks are gently stroked towards the corners of their mouths, they slowly and apparently reluctantly yawn; such long, sleepy yawns!  I was so pleased with the performance that I kept making them do it "all the time," as the Americans say.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>October 31st.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THE night before last, George and I were awoke by the most awful smell of skunk, and we heard a regular skirmish going on outside our room, on the wood-pile where the safe is kept.  It's a thing made of wire gauze, in which all the food is kept, to preserve it from wasps and flies.  In the morning the smell was still appalling, and about 11 o'clock I heard squeals and yells coming from the stove wood, which is stacked closely and neatly on the wood-pile.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I yelled for the boys, and, after some trouble, we managed to find the beast, who was wedged in, and a revolver put to his head soon despatched him.  They are very pretty, black and white striped, and with a huge tail like a fox's.</P>
130.sgm:<P>In the evening, we heard a noise at the safe, and George, thinking it was one of the kittens trying to crawl up, as usual, went out with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The nights are extremely cold now, but the days very hot still.  I hope E. F-- will like pets, for we spoil ours terribly.  When I go to milk, I lead the way, followed by Becky, who is generally waiting outside for me, Bimbi, expecting her share of the hay, and the three cats, who take the deepest interest in the proceeding, as their greed for warm milk is insatiable.  I held up one of the kittens and milked into its mouth one day, to its great delight.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I am writing in the kitchen, to keep an eye on a huge thing of tomato-ketchup which is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>If our English servants once felt the comfort of these American stoves, they would never put up with our ranges.  It is so much handier having it low, so that one can stir things easily, and in hot weather it is a comfort to have the fire all shut in.  I don't take the covers off, so that I can keep my saucepans as clean outside as in.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sunday, November 8th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>IT has now been raining ever since Wednesday morning, with the most incredible result.  All the brown earth, which has been parched up ever since we came, has suddenly sprouted up a lovely green.  When we saw it yesterday, just before dark, there was a hazy suspicion of a green tint coming over it, but to-day it is beautiful.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The consequences in our new house are not altogether desirable.  The doors won't shut, and there are one or two leakages in the roof.  The fire-wood, too, is soaking, and it is very difficult to make a cheerful fire.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We are told we shall get crowds of mushrooms, as all the land up here has been used as a sheep-ranch, and wherever the sheep have been, mushrooms come up in abundance.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Drying the clothes I washed was most difficult--some on the verandah and some before the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We had to stew the apples to a pulp, and then put them into clean flour-sacks to drain the juice out for jelly, and then rub the pulp through a sieve for jam.  The jelly is lovely, and is a beautiful red colour, though the apples were quite green.  And my hands are shocking! the apples have stained them black.  It was a tiring day, for, excepting while I ate my meals, I never sat down from 7.30 A.M. to 7.30 P.M.</P>
130.sgm:<P>When E. F-- comes out, she ought to bring some galoshes--old-fashioned india-rubbers.</P>
130.sgm:<P>It's impossible to get servants here, unless you are rolling in riches.  A common American woman would want &pound;80 a year; and a Chinaman, to do the cooking alone--not a scrap of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We are so much obliged to you for the papers you send.  We all read the <HI REND="italics">Church Times</HI>
130.sgm: all through, and the boys even read the <HI REND="italics">Girls' Own Paper</HI>
130.sgm:.  Any odd papers--a stray number of <HI REND="italics">Truth</HI>
130.sgm:<P>The boys have been building a cow-shed on to the side of the barn.  It is too wet to plough, and too wet to haul any more lumber for the fencing, so they are rather at a stand-still.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>November 27th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE were to have had a dance last week in the New Hall, and a great many Americans were coming to it from Lower Lake; but it had to be put off on account of the rain and the awful state of the roads.  It was not settled that it could not take place till the very day, so everyone had done their cooking for it.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I had made fifty tarts, twenty-five with apple-jelly and twenty-five cheese-cakes.  My puff pastry was very successful, and my tarts looked most inviting!  We have managed to get rid of them without much trouble.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Not much has been done in the farming line during this last wet week.  They have grubbed a few trees, and have made a bridge over the stream, and built a new chicken-house, as our only one is not large enough for ninety chickens.  They have made the roof extend a long way down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 6th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>I had quite a nice days' outing on Monday.  It was suggested that we should all club together and eat our Christmas dinner in the Hall, so George and I went round in the K--s' spring waggon, to interview all the English.  We found the roads in a fearful condition after the rains, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I ended up the day with a most ludicrous adventure.  George dropped me at Mrs. B--'s gate for me to interview her, while he drove home, and then came back to meet me at the K--s', where we were going to tea.  Mr. B-- insisted on escorting me to the K--s', across the fields.  They warned me it was very muddy, so they provided me with a pair of india-rubber top-boots, about six sizes too big, which I slopped along in.</P>
130.sgm:<P>It was getting rather dusk, so when we got to the last field, we cut across it, instead of going round.  The result was that we stuck in the mud.  My boots, being so huge, came off at every step, and after floundering hopelessly a few steps farther, we stuck hopelessly.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I was up to my knees, and was so unsteady, that I fell forward, and my arms were promptly covered with mud.  When I had been helped up, I said, "I hope I shan't sit down," and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Oh! how cold it felt to plunge into the mud in my "stocking feet"!</P>
130.sgm:<P>Mrs. K-- took great care of me; she put my feet in hot water, and wouldn't let me go home that night, but made me sleep there.</P>
130.sgm:<P>On further consultation, the idea of a united dinner was given up, so we shall have a large dinner party of the bachelors of the colony instead.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I am already beginning to plan my Christmas dinner, but I will not tell you, for you will think I am always writing about food.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I pine for a Buszard's cake.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Though the sun is so hot, they have not been able to plough yet, or even dig the holes for the posts for the fencing.  The earth is still so saturated, that the holes fill with water.  They have been able to drive some posts without digging holes.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have been finding out about the price of olives.  They will cost us 105 dollars an acre to plant.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 20th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>ON Monday I had a quiet day of incessant cooking, but I had no midday dinner to prepare, as George and Bob were gone to the Mill, and Laurence and H. B--were decorating the Hall for the dance.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Poor George has had to go to the Mill every time.  It's very cold to start in the dark at 6.30, and it's a very long and tiring day.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The long-talked-of dance came off on Tuesday.  It began at 8 and was kept up by a few till 4 A.M.!  The American visitors were gratified, I think.  The decorations took their fancy; but the supper was <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The dancing was very German, exactly in the style of the Germans we met at the Maderaner Thal; and they had a "caller" to shout out what they were to do: "Bow," "Swing partners," "Promenade," &amp;c.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I wore my wedding get-up, and it looked very nice.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I danced till 12 o'clock, and was very tired next day, and found the family wash even more objectionable than usual.</P>
130.sgm:<P>At last my washer is come, but is rather a sell.  It only does tolerably clean things, such as sheets, towels, table-cloths; but it won't do shirts at all.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letter from GEORGE.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>ANOTHER week gone by, and very little progress.</P>
130.sgm:<P>On Monday we hauled 620 feet of lumber for E. F--'s cabin.</P>
130.sgm:<P>On Tuesday we all helped at the decoration of the Hall.</P>
130.sgm:<P>On Wednesday I helped Evelyn with the washing, the others making a small fence round the chicken-house, to prevent the cow eating the hay out of the nest-boxes.</P>
130.sgm:<P>On Thursday we tried ploughing again, and although the ground was far too wet, we did a little, and then went on with that everlasting picket fence.</P>
130.sgm:<P>On Friday Bob and I hauled 300 pickets from the saw-mill; but the roads are still very bad, and it was a hard day for the horses.  We give them one hour's rest at the mill, and we are away from 6.30 A.M. to 6.30 P.M.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Saturday we did little but kill and pluck our Christmas turkeys.  We knew nothing whatever about it, and had to refer to Mrs. Beeton every two minutes for instruction.</P>
130.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we went and fetched our load home from where we had left it the evening before, as it was too dark then to bring it across our miry wood, where, in places, the wheels sink in up to the axle.</P>
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130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 18th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>EVELYN and I drove into town on Monday, to lay in our stores for Christmas; and the others went on with the fencing, which does seem an everlasting job.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have given up ploughing at present, as the people here tell us that if you turn up the earth glassy, you spoil the land for years.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have finished driving in all the posts, so we can continue the fencing at odd times.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The principal job we have done this week was hauling the lumber for the cabin we are going to build for E. F--.  In an ordinary way no one would think of hauling during this wet weather; but we must have the wood, and a neighbour of ours went for some at the same time.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We had an awful job of it.  The roads were fearfully bad, and we stuck at the first hill.  Fortunately, a team we met coming down the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Next day we took F--'s waggon and horses and brought back a portion of the load; but a mile and a half from home the axle broke, and we had to unload and leave everything by the side of the road.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The next day we had to get our broken waggon into town to the blacksmith's, which was a most difficult operation, and, when it was mended, we had to pick up our two half loads which were lying about the country.</P>
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130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letters from EVELYN continued.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>GEORGE has told you that we went into town for some shopping, and really nothing else has occurred this week, except poor George's worries with the lumber-hauling.  It is a nuisance!</P>
130.sgm:<P>There was such a commotion in town, as two men had been shot on Sunday afternoon.  There had been a quarrel, and one of the two combatants was shot, and a poor boy near was shot by mistake.  It is extraordinary how they seem to carry loaded revolvers about with them, and use them on the slightest provocation.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 26th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>JUST received your Christmas cards and letters, and am enjoying them so much, as I am actually spending the evening alone.  The boys are all gone to a dinner at the S--s'; and though Mrs. K-- asked me to spend the evening with them, I was so tired with the exertion of yesterday, that I preferred a quiet rest, with Nick to take care of me.  He is very fidgetty, and doesn't at all like there being no men about.</P>
130.sgm:<P>You can't think how glad I am that Christmas is over, and I feel rather a wreck; but, as the dinner was an undoubted success, I rest happy.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We, that is George and I, dined on Christmas Eve with Mr. S--, who drove up for us in his spring-waggon, and put us up for the night, as it was impossible for me to walk back in the dark and the rain.</P>
130.sgm:<P>On Christmas morning we had hoped to have had a little service in the Hall; but the weather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Miss May took compassion on my loneliness, and came, to prevent my being the only lady.</P>
130.sgm:<P>One of our guests couldn't come, as he had upset himself out of his waggon, driving back in the dark from town, on Chrismas Eve, and dislocated his shoulder.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Now, you really must hear about my Chrismas dinner!</P>
130.sgm:<P>We had killed our turkeys a week before, but, owing to the damp and warmth of the weather, they smelt shockingly.  I could have wept, as I did not know what to do about them; but, finally, I decided to risk it, and when cooked they were perfect, as tender as possible, and not at all gamey.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The plum-pudding and mince-pies were all that could be disired, and we had also tipsy cake, victoria sandwiches, meringues, and dessert.  We had a light wine that tastes like hock, and was nice and wholesome, which all the wines out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The manzanita has just come into flower; the leaf is a very shiny green, and the flower is like a little snowdrop.  We decorated the table with it, and it looked so pretty.  I am sure it didn't look much like "roughing it" in California!</P>
130.sgm:<P>There were eleven of us altogether, and we were a very merry party, and drank everyone's health "at home."</P>
130.sgm:<P>My cooking was much appreciated.  It seemed so funny having to dish up and then sit down to dinner, and after dinner to have to wash up.  Miss May was very kind indeed in helping me.</P>
130.sgm:<P>You asked how long the days are.  It gets light at about 6.30 and dark at 5.30, and it does it suddenly, without any twilight worth mentioning.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 2nd.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THAT brute Becky has gone off!  She went on Wednesday afternoon, and to-day is Saturday, and she is not back yet, and we can't find her anywhere.  The boys went over to her old home, but could not find her, though she had been seen there this morning.  She will have gone dry if she doesn't come home to-day or tomorrow.  There seems to be a conspiracy among the cows, for the G--s' and the C--s' have also gone.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We had to buy some Swiss milk to help down our tea.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The K--s have a lovely Jersey cow, that gives quantities of rich milk, but the disgusting beast has taken to drink it all herself; and they have had to arrange a sort of machine that will prevent her getting her head round, and yet allow her to heat her hay.  Did you ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>It has been uncommonly cold the last few days.  At 7 this morning there were eight degrees of frost, and not a drop of water to be got, the pumps and pipes all frozen.</P>
130.sgm:<P>These wooden houses are awful in cold weather; they don't seem to keep out the cold at all.</P>
130.sgm:<P>George spilt some cold tea on the kitchen table when he was getting breakfast, and it promptly froze hard.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The picket fence is nearly finished, and the gates are up and look very nice.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I don't see why you should wish we were in Virginia, except for the shorter journey.  We could make quite as much money here as our cousins do there if we had the capital they have.  The climate here is far nicer, and we could not possibly have a nicer set of neighbours, nor live so cheaply anywhere else.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I think that for poverty-stricken people who have to live away from England and home nothing could be better than this.  Of course, we have a good many more hardships than the boys in Virginia have, but it is only because we have so much less money.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Jan. 10th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>STILL bitterly cold at night, but it gets quite hot in the middle of the day, so it is difficult to know what to wear.</P>
130.sgm:<P>On Tuesday Mr. White took me for a drive in his go-cart, and we drove to Sulphur Bank to see after Becky, who is there, but gone quite dry, so it is no use having her home.  We have been ten days without milk, except what Mrs. K-- gives <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>On George's birthday we had the K--s to supper, and I was gratified afterwards by hearing that Mrs. K--had said she had not had such a nice dinner since she had been in California.  We had turkey, plum-pudding, and a port-wine jelly.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have bought seven turkeys, six hens and one "gobbler," as they call the old cock.  They are very profitable creatures, as they are worth as much as a sheep! and are very little trouble to keep.  At present they fight the chickens, and one poor turkey got stuck in the little hole of the chicken-house in its endeavours to get in and roost with the chickens.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Laurence and Bob went to the mill to haul more lumber for E. F--'s cabin, which they are going to begin at once, on Tuesday at 6.30 A.M., and did not get back till Wednesday at about 6 in the evening.  They drove into a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>They are now going to fence 20 acres, which they will plant half with vines and half with barley for hay.  The fencing has to be rabbitproof.  The posts are five feet apart, and the boards nailed on with only an inch between the bottom ones.</P>
130.sgm:<P>George says I am to tell you that fencing 20 acres will take 620 posts and 240 panels, and it will cost us about two dollars and three-quarters per 1,000 feet.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Jan. 16th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>I HAVE had an invalid to nurse this week, for George was quite suddenly smitten down with severe lumbago, and had to go to bed for two whole days, and have mustard poultices on, and really was quite in tortures and unable to move himself.  Then he as suddenly got quite well.  It is a very common complaint with the men about here.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Lawrence has been after another cow, and came home in triumph with the most absurd little creature.  It's a sweet animal, but so ridiculously small after my huge Becky.  She had a calf in September and is expecting another in July.  She cost 30 dollars, and is three years old.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The boys are hard at work on E. F--'s cabin.  I shall indeed be glad to have her to help me.  I was ironing the whole day yesterday.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>On Wednesday they cleared a place for the cabin.  On Thursday, Bob brought twenty-nine posts and three turkeys from town, while Laurence sawed the sills for the cabin; and when Bob came back they laid and levelled-up the sills.  On Friday, George helped, and they put the joists and flooring down; and on Saturday they got up all the walls and the rafters.  So you see it does not take long to build an extra room here, when you have the wood to hand.  The hauling it has been the worst part of the job.</P>
130.sgm:<P>There was a sharp fall of snow this morning, and Konocti mountain, the other side of the lake, was half covered; but it did not lie on the ground here at all.  It is beautiful weather now, but rather cold.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Jan. 31st.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>YOU ask how we are getting on.  Of course we have to be very careful; we do not eat meat every day, but we have lots of eggs and milk; and, except on Christmas Day, we never have any liquor in the house.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Mr. K--says he thinks this is the easiest place in the world to make a <HI REND="italics">living</HI>
130.sgm:<P>Now I must answer some of your questions.  Fleas.  No, we have none, because the boys keep the stables and the chicken-houses so clean; but our neighbours have swarms.  We have no hogs, and that is another reason for our exemption.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The price of food you next ask about.  We pay 5.75 dollars for a barrel of flour, which is as much as four sacks of 50 lbs. each.  Potatoes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>How near are we to gold mines?  There is one at Sulphur Creek, about fifteen miles off; but it is not worked much now.  At Sulphur Bank there is the largest quicksilver mine in the world; but there is not much going on there, as the price of quicksilver is low.  It is said that one of the Rothschilds offered thirty million dollars for it in 1879.  It seems incredible.  Burn's Valley, in which we are, is fifty miles from the Pacific, as the crow flies.</P>
130.sgm:<P>What to say about the prospect of making money is very difficult; indeed, in a newly-settled place like this, it is impossible.  Thirty years ago the ground that San Francisco stands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We have been to town to buy the things for E. F--'s room.  A mattress cost 3.50 dollars; a spring ditto, 4.50 dollars.  Two beautiful blankets, 4 dollars.  Carpet, 35 cents a yard.  The boards are so rough that a bit of carpet was necessary, and cheaper than good flooring.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Feb. 7th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THIS week E. F-- will actually arrive.  Her room looks very nice.  We have put up a blind; and the curtains are made of cheese cloth, and a bit of lace off an old parasol along the valance.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Miss May has been up for two afternoons helping me make the carpet: she is so good to me.  It has been exquisite weather all the week, so hot and lovely, that we sit with all the windows and doors open.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Mr. F-- is in San Francisco.  His shoulder has been very bad, and he will have to go home for a long rest.  He will meet E. F-- and look after her.</P>
130.sgm:<P>George and I have been on the rock pile getting up maidenhair fern, which grows there in abundance.  We have planted it in boxes, hoping to keep it alive through the summer.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">Note by Editor</HI>
130.sgm:<P>E. F-- is a young lady who went out to live with Evelyn and help her in her domestic duties.]</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Feb. 14th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>E. F-- has arrived, and I cannot express to you how thankful I am to have her, or what a comfort she is and will be to me.  She seems quite inclined to be happy and to like the life.  The coach journey from Calistoga to Lower Lake <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We expected her on the 10th, and George went to Lower Lake to meet the coach, but, to our deadly disappointment, returned alone.  You would have been amused to see our excitement on the afternoon of the 12th, when George went again to meet the coach.  As soon as there was a chance of their being in sight we betook ourselves to the top of the rock pile, from whence we can see the road at least a mile and a half off.  There, armed with opera-glasses, we waited quite three-quarters of an hour with our eyes glued on the distant road.  The excitement when they at last appeared, and the grabbing at the opera-glasses for a view, was very amusing.  We then raced home, and awaited their arrival in calm repose on the verandah, as if we had been sitting there all the afternoon.  George is delighted with her.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We have at last got our Becky home again; she is evidently going to give us an addition to the family.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 21st.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THIS week we have been so bothered with our new cow Bessie.  She got away on Monday with some stray cattle, and did not come home to be milked.  On Tuesday and Wednesday it was impossible to go after her, as one day was the funeral of one of our neighbours, whose death has been a great grief to all the colony, and the other day Mr. Stanley was here, and they couldn't leave him.</P>
130.sgm:<P>But on Thursday they began the chase, and the whole of that day, Friday, and Saturday <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 27th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>I AM thankful to tell you that Bessie's milk has come back again all right.  She is a sweet-tempered little beast, and I am getting quite fond of her.  I think the animals are the pleasantest part of this life.  I am looking forward to having two cows to milk in the summer, and two little calves to attend to, as I shall remove them from their mothers promptly, and bring them "up by hand."  It saves a lot of trouble afterwards.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We are so plagued with coyotes just now.  I never heard them till this last week, and now they come round the house nearly every night, and the noise they make is quite blood-curdling! long weird howls, like Vixen [a colley at home] used to make when the bugle was sounded.  They sit up and do it out of "pure cussedness," as they say out here.  Last night they were running about on the little platform between E. F--'s cabin and the house--after the meat in the safe, I expect.  They keep me awake dreadfully, and it is a noise that frightens one.  E. F-- is awfully scared at them, too.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I had no idea E. F-- was such fun.  It's quite delightful to be frivolous again, after so much solitude.  I have laughed more in the last fortnight than I have since I left England.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We are so surprised to hear of the C--s going to Florida.  People say the climate is very trying there.  You have quite a mistaken idea of the Southern Californian climate at home.  It is much the same as we have here--frosts in winter the same; only, when the thermometer stands as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>This is supposed to be quite the finest climate anywhere about, and this will soon be discovered when we have the railway up here from Calistoga.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have had immense delight in unpacking E. F--'s big boxes, and seeing all the lovely and useful things you have sent me.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We are going to have our entertainment this week for the benefit of the Hall, and especially for the purchase of a harmonium for the services.  I think I told you that, when we cannot get a parson, we have a little service, conducted generally by Laurence.</P>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letter from George. <LB>March 21st.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>THE entertainment was very amusing.  It was on the plan of a penny reading--recitations and songs alternating, and "Box and Cox" to finish up with.  I was "Cox," and E. F--was Mrs. Bouncer.  We took 61 dollars at the door.  There was an account of it in the little local paper yesterday; but the copies were all sold directly it came out, so I cannot send you one.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Yesterday twenty of our olive-trees arrived, and we are going to plant them out to-morrow, also a hundred Jersey Queen strawberry-plants.  We are expecting twenty more olive-trees.  They are rather expensive, costing 50 cents each.  In planting olives among the rocks, you have to dig holes four feet square and four feet deep, so that the roots shall not come in contact with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The peach- and plum-trees that we put in about a month ago have begun to bud, and nearly all the 130 vines we put in the garden are showing signs of life.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have not yet sown our alfalfa, as we are still afraid of frost, but we hope to get it in in about a fortnight's time.  We have got all the lumber down now for fencing it in; we are doing the alfalfa field with second-class lumber, at 8 dollars a thousand, and, as we have hauled it ourselves, it came very cheap.  You see, it is an inside fence, and does not require to be so strong.  First-class lumber comes to about 15 dollars a thousand feet at the mill.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We are not doing so well with our young chickens as we ought, on account of the hawks, which have eaten so many.  We have now two hens sitting on 22 eggs, two sitting on 18 ducks' eggs, and one hen sitting on 7 turkeys' eggs, also two turkeys sitting on 20 turkeys' eggs.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letter from EVELYN.<LB>March 26th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE have had no end of worry over the endeavours to get a nurse to come up here, and, finally, we have decided to go to Vallejo, and take up our abode there with a very good one, as no one will come to us.</P>
130.sgm:<P>That forty-mile drive to Calistoga will be rather dreadful for me, but we shall drive our own horses and take our time over it.</P>
130.sgm:<P>E. F-- will pay a course of little visits, and just come up here to wash and bake.</P>
130.sgm:<P>They are all working tremendously hard just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>It is to act as a pump, to pump the water from the well up into the tank.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Unless the tank is full I get no water through the pipes into the house, which is the case just at this present time, owing to their having been too busy to pump, so we have to go to the well for our water, and a disgusting nuisance it is.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have sixteen sweet little ducks out and a quantity of little chicks.  Our old gobbler actually had the cheek to run after me and try to peck me, this afternoon, but a well-directed kick soon checked his career.</P>
130.sgm:<P>He made for Miss May yesterday, and she retreated before the foe in a very undignified manner; he is really a very formidable creature, exceptionally large.</P>
130.sgm:<P>It has become so hot, and the flowers are perfectly lovely.  Everywhere is carpeted with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>The maidenhair is that large sort, and grows so huge!  There are also some curious orchids.</P>
130.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">Editor's Note</HI>
130.sgm:<P>EVELYN and her husband drove to Calistoga on the 31st March and the 1st April, and went from thence by train to Vallejo, where, on the 3rd April, a little daughter was born to them.]</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VALLEJO, April 24th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>GEORGE and I are going to Church to-morrow, Easter Sunday, and I expect the decorations will be lovely.  I shall go into the Roman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Nearly all the inhabitants here are Roman Catholics.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I wish you could have a cart-load of the flowers from here; the arum lilies grow almost wild, and larger than I have ever seen them, and the houses are covered with roses and sweet peas, which climb up even over the roofs.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The lemon-plant is a tree out here.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letter from GEORGE. <LB>LOWER LAKE, May 12th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE are at home again, and got through the journey very fairly.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Evelyn caught a bad cold, but is better now.  We both quite enjoyed our holiday at Vallejo, and the people there were so uncommonly kind to us, sending us daily presents of flowers and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Our new cow and calf arrived to-day.  We gave 30 dollars for them, and are much pleased with our bargain.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have now three cows and two calves, and are expecting another shortly.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The fence round the alfalfa field is completed; it is over 1,600 feet round, and contains about four acres of alfalfa and timothy grass.  All our trees and vines are in full leaf, except the olives, which look very seedy; but we think they are still alive.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The strawberries are doing well.</P>
130.sgm:<P>The windmill is a great success for drawing the water, and looks very well from the valley.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We hear the railway is certainly coming here next year, which will considerably enhance the value of this property.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We shall then have to consider whether it will be worth our while to sell it, as we shall get a great deal more than we gave.</P>
130.sgm:<P>pn 162></P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Letters from EVELYN continued. <LB>May 30th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>Poor E-- has "poison oak."  It is a most tiresome disease, as it sometimes lasts for two or three months, and pulls people down terribly.  E-- has her hands covered with blisters, and, besides their being so sore, they are very irritable.</P>
130.sgm:<P>She has bought herself a very good horse for 100 dollars, but it is rather young and skittish for a beginner.  I should have advised a more steady old gee.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have had to buy our hay for this year at 5 dollars a ton.  That is considered cheap for wheat hay.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We all went to Lower Lake the other evening; E-- on her new horse George driving me and the baby.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We had such a return journey!  E-- started first, and soon after we had set forth, Fox, our horse, went dead lame; so we crawled along, and presently we came up with E-- in the most unhappy state of mind, as her horse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Soon it became pitch dark, and the roads are so rough, that we were obliged to get out and walk.</P>
130.sgm:<P>You would have laughed if you could have seen our melancholy little procession stumbling along; first, George in the waggon with his lame horse, then I and the baby, then E--leading her horse.  The dog did his best to cheer us all up.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>June 13th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>WE had such a scare last night.  Our water-tank fell down, and it will cost a great deal to rebuild it.  It has looked very crooked for some time, but the carpenter thought it was quite safe.  However, he was mistaken.</P>
130.sgm:<P>George and Bob were both out for the night, having gone to a "convivial" at Cache Creek, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>George has been working out lately, as there is not much to do here.  He can get 2 dollars a day.  It is the easiest thing in the world to make a living here if a man is industrious; but I am more and more hopeless of our ever making enough money over farming here to come home again.  It is the old story--want of capital.  No one out here expects to be rich; one can make a living, but nothing more.</P>
130.sgm:<P>We have just received <HI REND="italics">How to be Happy though Married</HI>
130.sgm:<P>The weather is quite lovely; hot, but with a nice breeze, and the nights quite chilly.</P>
130.sgm:<P>A friend of ours here has gone off to the plains to try and make some money.  He and his five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>We have just bought a capital little second-hand cart for 50 dollars, which includes harness.  It is a sort of gig, with capital springs, and runs very smoothly.  Old Buck, one of our waggon-horses, is very steady, and trots along with it quite nicely.  It will give me a great deal of fresh air, and enable me to take Baby out in the evenings when work is done.  She is, fortunately, the best of babies, and lies awake and placid for hours in the hammock while I am busy.  I think a baby makes me more home-sick instead of less, as I pine to show her to you all.</P>
130.sgm:<P>E-- has been to several riding parties and picnics lately, from which I am debarred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>Things are not looking very lively.  The alfalfa is dying for want of water, and we cannot irrigate it because of the loss of our tank.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 4th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>GEORGE is working tremendously hard at rebuilding the tank, which is on stone foundations this time.  We are having to fetch all our water from a neighbours, which in this awful heat is killing work.</P>
130.sgm:<P>I hope the young man you write about is not coming here to settle, for with only a capital of &pound;100 it would be madness to attempt it.  There is no homestead land to be taken up here; and if there were, &pound;100 would be no use at all to start it with.  It is ridiculous to try and make a fortune here without plenty of money to start with: fruit costs so much to put in, and one man could not look after a large orchard without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>I went for a lovely ride on E--'s horse yesterday.  Just as I had started I met young F--, who offered to come with me, to my great delight.  He is such a nice boy, and so handsome; but his get-up was peculiar.  A dirty flannel shirt, open at the throat, blue linen trousers, top boots, and a very large straw hat, like those flappy Leghorns.</P>
130.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>July 20th.</HEAD>
130.sgm:<P>DREADFUL news!  Swarms of mosquitoes have come upon us, and the heat is oppressive.  George and I are fearfully bitten.  I suppose having had rain so late this year is some excuse for the infliction.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Laurence is gone to stay for a week with a man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P>When we were all sitting out in the moonlight he sang us the following little song out of Besant's <HI REND="italics">Uncle Jack</HI>
130.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The ship was outward bound, when we drank a health around<LB>('Twas the year fifty-three, or thereabout),<LB>We were all for Melbourne Ho! where, like peas, the nuggets grow,<LB>And my heart, though young and green, was also stout.</HI>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I was two-and-twenty then, and like many other men,<LB>Among that gallant company afloat,<LB>I had played in the eleven, and pulled five or six or seven,<LB>In the 'Varsity or else the College boat.<LB>We were rusticated, plucked, in disgrace, and debt, and chucked,<LB>Out of patience were our friends--and unkind,<LB>But all of us agreed, that a gentleman in need,<LB>His fortune o'er the seas would surely find.<LB>So we liquored up and laughed, day by day aboard that craft,<LB>Till we parted at the port and went ashore;<LB>And since, of that brave crew, I have come across a few,<LB>And we liquor and we talk, but laugh no more.<LB>For if damper and cold tea the choicest blessings be,<LB>We are certainly above our merits blessed:<LB>And a gentleman in need, as is readily agreed,<LB>May very well dispense with all the rest.<LB>But as each man tells his tale, 'tis monotonous and stale,<LB>As if adventure's game was quite played out;<LB>And every honest chum, to the same hard pan must come,<LB>And no more luck was travelling about.</HI>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">'Tis how one in far Fiji, went beach-combing by the sea;<LB>One in Papua pioneered and died;<LB>One took coppers on a car, or mixed nobblers at a bar,<LB>Or in country stores forgot Old Country pride.<LB>And how one lucky swain thought he'd just go home again,<LB>And was welcomed with cold shoulder by his friends;<LB>And how one dug for gold, and, as usual, he was sold;<LB>And how one peddled pins and odds and ends.<LB>And how in coral isles one courted Fortune's smiles,<LB>And how one in a shanty kept a school;<LB>North and south and east and west, how we tried our level best,<LB>And did no good at all, as a rule.<LB>And how some took to drink, and some to printer's ink,<LB>And shepherded or cattle-drove awhile;<LB>But never that I know--and so far as stories go--<LB>Did one amongst us all make his pile.</HI>
130.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
130.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
130.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Well, 'tis better here than there, since rags <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
130.sgm: be our wear;<LB>In the Bush we are equal--every man.<LB>And we're all of us agreed, that a gentleman in need<LB>Must earn his daily damper--as he can.</HI>
130.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">Note by Editor</HI>
130.sgm:<P>THUS shall end these extracts, in perhaps a melancholy note; but for those in charge of young men seeking a fortune, and for young men themselves, it is well that it should be understood that without capital "a fortune" is as difficult to make in California as in England.</P>
130.sgm:<P>Nevertheless, the foregoing simple and unstudied records, lasting over a year and a half of a very hard-working life, show that there are still places in the world where educated people may make an honest living by the labour of their hands, and yet not be entirely cut off from the society of their equals.]</P>
130.sgm:<BACK><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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130.sgm:<P>LONDON:<LB>PRINTED BY W. H. ALLEN AND CO., 13 WATERLOO PLACE. S. W.</P>
132.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-132</TITLE>
132.sgm:<TITLE>The Silverado squatters. By Robert Louis Stevenson: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
132.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
132.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
132.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
132.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
132.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
132.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
132.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>ca 10-1446</LCCN>
132.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
132.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
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132.sgm:<P>No. 1214<HSEP>10 cents</P>
132.sgm:<P>LOVELL'S LIBRARY<LB>A TRI-WEEKLY PUBLICATION OF THE BEST CURRENT &amp; STANDARD LITERATURE</P>
132.sgm:<P>Annual Subscription $30.  Entered at this Post Office, New York, as second class matter Sept. 1, 1888.</P>
132.sgm:<P>THE SILVERADO<LB>SQUATTERS</P>
132.sgm:<P>BY<LB>ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON</P>
132.sgm:<P>AUTHOR OF "STRANGE CASE OF DR. JEKYLL AND MR. HYDE," "TREASURE<LB>ISLAND," ETC., ETC.</P>
132.sgm:<P>NEW YORK<LB>JOHN LOVELL COMPANY<LB>14 &amp; 16 VESEY STREET</P>
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132.sgm:<DIV><P>THE SILVERADO SQUATTERS</P>
132.sgm:<P>BY<LB>ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON</P>
132.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">"Vixerunt nonulli in agris, delectati re sua familiari.  His idem propositum fuit quod regibus, ut ne qua re agerent, ne cui parerent, libertate uterentur: cujus proprium est sic vivere ut velis."--CIC., <HI REND="italics">De Off</HI>
132.sgm:<P>NEW YORK<LB>JOHN W. LOVELL COMPANY<LB>14 AND 16 VESEY STREET</P>
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132.sgm:<P>TO<LB>VIRGIL WILLIAMS AND DORA NORTON WILLIAMS/THESE SKETCHES ARE AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED<LB>BY THEIR FRIEND<LB>THE AUTHOR</P>
132.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<HEAD>THE SILVERADO SQUATTERS.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>THE scene of this little book is on a high mountain.  There are, indeed, many higher; there are many of a nobler outline.  It is no place of pilgrimage for the summary globe-trotter; but to one who lives upon its sides, Mount Saint Helena soon becomes a centre of interest.  It is the Mont Blanc of one section of the Californian Coast Range, none of its near neighbors rising to one-half its altitude.  It looks down on much green, intricate country.  It feeds in the spring-time many splashing brooks.  From its summit you must have an excellent lesson of geography: seeing, to the south, San Francisco Bay, with Tamalpais on the one hand and Monte Diablo on the other; to the west and thirty miles away, the open ocean; eastward, across the corn-lands and thick tule swamps of Sacramento Valley, to where the Central Pacific Railroad begins to climb the sides of the Sierras; and northward, for what I know, the white head of Shasta looking down on Oregon.  Three counties--Napa County, Lake County, and Sonoma County--march across its cliffy shoulders.  Its naked peak stands nearly four thousand five hundred feet above the sea; its sides are fringed with forest; and the soil, where it is bare, glows warm with cinnabar.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Life in its shadow goes rustically forward.  Bucks, and bears, and rattlesnakes, and former mining operations, are the staple of men's talk.  Agriculture has only begun to mount above the valley.  And though in a few years from now the whole district may be smiling with farms, passing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>To reach Mount Saint Helena from San Francisco, the traveller has twice to cross the bay: once by the busy Oakland Ferry, and again, after an hour or so of the railway, from Vallejo junction to Vallejo.  Thence he takes rail once more to mount the long green strath of Napa Valley.</P>
132.sgm:<P>In all the contractions and expansions of that inland sea, the Bay of San Francisco, there can be few drearier scenes than the Vallejo Ferry.  Bald shores and a low, bald islet inclose the sea; through the narrows the tide bubbles, muddy like a river.  When we made the passage (bound, although yet we knew it not, for Silverado) the steamer jumped, and the black buoys were dancing in the jabble; the ocean breeze blew killing chill; and, although the upper sky was still unflecked with vapor, the sea-fogs were pouring in from seaward, over the hill-tops of Marin County, in one great, shapeless, silver cloud.</P>
132.sgm:<P>South Vallejo is typical of many Californian towns.  It was a blunder; the site has proved untenable; and, although it is still such a young place by the scale of Europe, it has already begun to be deserted for its neighbor and namesake, North Vallejo.  A long pier, a number of drinking saloons, a hotel of great size, marshy pools where the frogs keep up their croaking, and even at high noon the entire absence of any human face or voice--these are the marks of South Vallejo.  Yet there was a tall building beside the pier, labelled the Star Flour Mills; and sea-going, full-rigged ships lay close along shore, waiting for their cargo.  Soon these would be plunging round the Horn, soon the flour from the Star Flour Mills would be landed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>The Frisby House, for that was the name of the hotel, was a place of fallen fortunes, like the town.  It was now given up to laborers, and partly ruinous.  At dinner there was the ordinary display of what is called in the West a <HI REND="italics">two-bit house</HI>
132.sgm:<P>Early the next morning we mounted the hill along a wooden footway, bridging one marish spot after another.  Here and there, as we ascended, we passed a house embowered in white roses.  More of the bay became apparent, and soon the blue peak of Tamalpais rose above the green level of the island opposite.  It told us we were still but a little way from the city of the Golden Gate, already, at that hour, beginning to awake among the sand-hills.  It called to us over the waters as with the voice of a bird.  Its stately head, blue as a sapphire on the paler azure of the sky, spoke to us of wider outlooks and the bright Pacific.  For Tamalpais stands sentry, like a light-house, over the Golden Gate, between the bay and the open ocean, and looks down indifferently on both.  Even as we saw and hailed it from Vallejo, seamen, far out at sea, were scanning it with shaded eyes; and, as if to answer to the thought, one of the great ships below began silently to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>For some way beyond Vallejo the railway led us through bald green pastures.  On the west the rough highlands of Marin shut off the ocean; in the midst, in long, straggling, gleaming arms, the bay died out among the grass; there were few trees and few inclosures; the sun shone wide over open uplands, the displumed hills stood clear against the sky.  But by and by these hills began to draw nearer on either hand, and first thicket and then wood began to clothe their sides; and soon we were away from all signs of the sea's neighborhood, mounting an inland, irrigated valley.  A great variety of oaks stood, now severally, now in a becoming grove, among the fields and vineyards.  The towns were compact, in about equal proportions, of bright, new wooden houses and great and growing forest trees; and the chapel bell on the engine sounded most festally that sunny Sunday, as we drew up at one green town after another, with the townsfolk trooping in their Sunday's best to see the strangers, with the sun sparkling on the clean houses, and great domes of foliage humming overhead in the breeze.</P>
132.sgm:<P>This pleasant Napa Valley is, at its north end, blockaded by our mountain.  There, at Calistoga, the railroad ceases, and the traveller who intends faring further, to the Geysers or to the springs in Lake County, must cross the spurs of the mountain by stage.  Thus, Mount Saint Helena is not only a summit, but a frontier; and, up to the time of writing, it has stayed the progress of the iron horse.</P>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IN THE VALLEY.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>I.</P>
132.sgm:<P>CALISTOGA</P>
132.sgm:<P>It is difficult for a European to imagine Calistoga, the whole place is so new, and of such an occidental pattern; the very name, I hear, was invented at a supper-party by the man who found the springs.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The railroad and the highway come up the valley about parallel to one another.  The street of Calistoga joins them, perpendicular to both--a wide street, with bright, clean, low houses, here and there a veranda over the sidewalk, here and there a horse-post, here and there lounging townsfolk.  Other streets are marked out, and most likely named; for these towns in the New World begin with a firm resolve to grow larger, Washington and Broadway, and then First and Second, and so forth, being boldly plotted out as soon as the community indulges in a plan.  But, in the meanwhile, all the life and most of the houses of Calistoga are concentrated upon that street between the railway-station and the road.  I never heard it called by any name, but I will hazard a guess that it is either Washington or Broadway.  Here are the blacksmith's, the chemist's, the general merchant's, and Kong Sam Kee, the Chinese laundryman's; here, probably, is the office of the local paper (for the place has a paper--they all have papers); and here certainly is one of the hotels, Cheeseborough's, whence the daring Foss, a man dear to legend, starts his horses for the Geysers.</P>
132.sgm:<P>It must be remembered that we are here in a land of stage-drivers and highwaymen--a land, in that sense, like England a hundred years ago.  The highway robber--road-agent, he is quaintly called--is still busy in these parts.  The fame of Vasquez is still young.  Only a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>The cultus of the stage-coachman always flourishes highest where there are thieves on the road, and where the guard travels armed, and the stage is not only a link between country and city, and the vehicle of news, but has a faint war-faring aroma, like a man who should be brother to a soldier.  California boasts her famous stage-drivers, and among the famous Foss is not forgotten.  Along the unfenced, abominable mountain roads, he launches his team with small regard to human life or the doctrine of probabilities.  Flinching travellers, who behold themselves coasting eternity at every corner, look with natural admiration at their driver's huge, impassive, fleshy countenance.  He has the very face for the driver in Sam Weller's anecdote, who upset the election party at the required point.  Wonderful tales are current of his readiness and skill.  One in particular, of how one of his horses fell at a ticklish passage of the road, and how Foss let slip the reins, and, driving over the fallen animal, arrived at the next stage with only three.  This I relate as I heard it, without guarantee.</P>
132.sgm:<P>I only saw Foss once, though, strange as it may sound, I have twice talked with him.  He lives out of Calistoga, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Alone, on the other side of the railway, stands the Springs Hotel, with its attendant cottages.  The floor of the valley is extremely level to the very roots of the hills; only here and there a hillock, crowned with pines, rises like the barrow of some chieftain famed in war; and right against one of these hillocks is the Springs Hotel--is or was; for since I was there the place has been destroyed by fire, and has risen again from its ashes.  A lawn runs about the house, and the lawn is in its turn surrounded by a system of little five-roomed cottages, each with a veranda and a weedy palm before the door.  Some of the cottages are let to residents, and these are wreathed in flowers.  The rest are occupied by ordinary visitors to the hotel; and a very pleasant way this is, by which you have a little country cottage of your own, without domestic burdens, and by the day or week.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The whole neighborhood of Mount Saint Helena is full of sulphur and of boiling springs.  The Geysers are famous; they were the great health resort of the Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>But in spite of this heat from above and below, doing one on both sides, Calistoga was a pleasant place to dwell in; beautifully green, for it was then that favored moment in the Californian year when the rains are over and the dusty summer has not yet set in; often visited by fresh airs, now from the mountain, now across Sonoma from the sea; very quiet, very idle, very silent but for the breezes and the cattle-bells afield; and there was something satisfactory in the sight of that great mountain that inclosed us to the north, whether it stood, robed in sunshine, quaking to its topmost pinnacle with the heat and brightness of the day, or whether it set itself to weaving vapors, wisp after wisp growing, trembling, fleeting, and fading in the blue.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The tangled, woody, and almost trackless foot-hills that inclose the valley, shutting it off from Sonoma on the west, and from Yolo on the east--rough as they were in outline, dug out by winter streams crowned by cliffy bluffs and nodding pine-trees--were dwarfed into satellites by the bulk and bearing of Mount Saint Helena.  She over-towered them by two-thirds of her own stature.  She excelled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II.<LB>THE PETRIFIED FOREST.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>We drove off from the Springs Hotel about three in the afternoon.  The sun warmed me to the heart.  A broad, cool wind streamed pauselessly down the valley, laden with perfume.  Up at the top stood Mount Saint Helena, a bulk of mountain, bare atop, with tree-fringed spurs, and radiating warmth.  Once we saw it framed in a grove of tall and exquisitely graceful white oaks, in line and color a finished composition.  We passed a cow stretched by the road-side, her bell slowly beating time to the movement of her ruminating jaws, her big red face crawled over by half a dozen flies, a monument of content.</P>
132.sgm:<P>A little further, and we struck to the left up a mountain road, and for two hours threaded one valley after another, green, tangled, full of noble timber, giving us every now and again a sight of Mount Saint Helena and the blue, hilly distance, and crossed by many streams, through which we splashed to the carriage-step.  To the right or the left, there was scarce any trace of man but the road we followed.  I think we passed but one ranchero's house in the whole distance, and that was closed and smokeless.  But we had the society of these bright streams--dazzlingly clear, as is their wont, splashing from the wheels in diamonds, and striking a lively coolness through the sunshine.  And what with the innumerable variety of greens, the masses of foliage tossing in the breeze, the glimpses of distance, the descents into seemingly impenetrable thickets, the continual dodging of the road which made haste to plunge again into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Our driver gave me a lecture by the way on Californian trees--a thing I was much in need of, having fallen among painters who know the name of nothing, and Mexicans who know the name of nothing in English.  He taught me the madrona, the manzanita, the buckeye, the maple; he showed me the crested mountain quail; he showed me where some young redwoods were already spiring heaven ward from the ruins of the old; for in this district all had already perished: redwoods and redskins, the two noblest indigenous living things, alike condemned.</P>
132.sgm:<P>At length, in a lonely dell, we came on a huge wooden gate with a sign upon it like an inn.  "The Petrified Forest: Proprietor, C. Evans," ran the legend.  Within, on a knoll of sward, was the house of the proprietor, and another smaller house hard by to serve as a museum, where photographs and petrifications were retailed.  It was a pure little isle of touristry among these solitary hills.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The proprietor was a brave old white-faced Swede.  He had wandered this way, Heaven knows how, and taken up his acres--I forgot how many years ago--all alone, bent double with sciatica, and with six bits in his pocket and an ax upon his shoulder.  Long, useless years of seafaring had thus discharged him at the end, penniless and sick.  Without doubt he had tried his luck at the diggings, and got no good from that; without doubt he had loved the bottle, and lived the life of Jack ashore.  But at the end of these adventures, here he came; and, the place hitting his fancy, down he sat to make a new life of it, far from crimps and the salt sea.  And the very sight of his ranch had done him good.  It was "the handsomest spot in the Californy Mountains."  "Isn't it handsome, now?" he said.  Every penny he makes goes into that ranch to make it handsomer.  Then the climate, with a sea-breeze every afternoon in the hottest summer weather, had gradually cured the sciatica; and his sister and niece were now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>This tardy favorite of fortune--hobbling a little, I think, as if in memory of the sciatica, but with nor a trace that I can remember of the sea--thoroughly ruralized from head to foot, proceeded to escort us up the hill behind his house.</P>
132.sgm:<P>"Who first found the forest?" asked my wife.</P>
132.sgm:<P>"The first?  I was that man," said he.  "I was cleaning up the pasture for my beasts, when I found <HI REND="italics">this</HI>
132.sgm:<P>"Were you surprised?"</P>
132.sgm:<P>"Surprised?  No!  What would I be surprised about?  What did I know about petrifactions--following the sea?  Petrifaction!  There was no such word in my language!  I knew about putrefaction, though!  I thought it was a stone; so would you, if you was cleaning up pasture."</P>
132.sgm:<P>And now he had a theory of his own, which I did not quite grasp, except that the tree had not "grewed" there.  But he mentioned, with evident pride, that he differed from all the scientific people who had visited the spot; and he flung about such words as "tufa" and "silica" with careless freedom.</P>
132.sgm:<P>When I mentioned I was from Scotland, "My old country," he said; "my old country"--with a smiling look and a tone of real affection in his voice.  I was mightily surprised, for he was obviously Scandinavian, and begged him to explain.  It seemed he had learned his English and done nearly all his sailing in Scotch ships.  "Out of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Here was a man, at least, who was a Swede, a Scot, and an American, acknowledging some kind of allegiance to three lands.  Mr. Wallace's Scoto-Circassian will not fail to come before the reader.  I have myself met and spoken with a Fifeshire German, whose combination of abominable accents struck me dumb.  But, indeed, I think we all belong to many countries.  And perhaps this habit of much travel, and the engendering of scattered friendships, may prepare the euthanasia of ancient nations.</P>
132.sgm:<P>And the forest itself.  Well, on a tangled, briery hillside--for the pasture would bear a little further cleaning up, to my eyes--there lie scattered thickly various lengths of petrified trunk, such as the one already mentioned.  It is very curious, of course, and ancient enough, if that were all.  Doubtless, the heart of the geologist beats quicker at the sight; but, for my part, I was mightily unmoved.  Sight-seeing is the art of disappointment.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"There's nothing under Heaven so blue,<LB>That's fairly worth the travelling to."</HI>
132.sgm:<P>But, fortunately, Heaven rewards us with many agreeable prospects and adventures by the way; and sometimes, when we go out to see a petrified forest, prepares a far more delightful curiosity in the form of Mr. Evans, whom may all prosperity attend throughout a long and green old age.</P>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III.<LB>NAPA WINE.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>I was interested in Californian wine.  Indeed, I am interested in all wines, and have been all my life, from the raisin-wine that a school-fellow kept secreted in his playbox up to my last discovery, those notable Valtellines, that once shone upon the board of C&aelig;sar.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Some of us, kind old pagans, watch with dread the shadows falling on the age; how the unconquerable worm invades the sunny terraces of France, and Bordeaux is no more, and the Rhone a mere Arabia Petr&aelig;a.  Cha&circ;teau Neuf is dead, and I have never tasted it; Hermitage--a hermitage indeed from all life's sorrows--lies expiring by the river.  And in the place of these imperial elixirs, beautiful to every sense, gem-hued, flower-scented, dream-compellers, behold upon the quays at Cette the chemicals arranged; behold the analyst at Marseilles, raising hands in obsecration, attesting god Ly&oelig;us, and the vats staved in, and the dishonest wines poured forth among the sea.  It is not Pan only; Bacchus, too, is dead.</P>
132.sgm:<P>If wine is to withdraw its most poetic countenance, the sun of the white dinner-cloth, a deity to be invoked by two or three, all fervent, hushing their talk, degusting tenderly, and storing reminiscences--for a bottle of good wine, like a good act, shines ever in the retrospect.  If wine is to desert us, go thy ways, old Jack!  Now we begin to have compunctions, and look back at the brave bottles squandered upon dinner-parties, where the guests drank grossly, discussing politics the while, and even the schoolboy "took his whack," like licorice water.  And at the same time we look timidly forward, with a spark of hope, to where the new lands, already weary of producing gold, begin to green with vineyards.  A nice point in human history falls to be decided by California and Australian wines.</P>
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132.sgm:<P>Wine in California is still in the experimental stage; and when you taste a vintage, grave economical questions are involved.  The beginning of vine-planting is like the beginning of mining for the precious metals: the wine-grower also "prospects."  One corner of land after another is tried with one kind of grape after another.  This is a failure; that is better; a third best.  So, bit by bit, they grope about for their Clos Vougeot and Lafitte.  Those lodes and pockets of earth, more precious than the precious ores, that yield inimitable fragrance and soft fire; those virtuous bonanzas, where the soil has sublimated under sun and stars to something finer, and the wine is bottled poetry; these still lie undiscovered; chapparal conceals, thicket embowers them; the miner chips the rock and wanders further, and the grizzly muses undisturbed.  But there they bide their hour, awaiting their Columbus; and nature nurses and prepares them.  The smack of Californian earth shall linger on the palate of your grandson.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Meanwhile the wine is merely a good wine; the best that I have tasted--better than a Beaujolais, and not unlike.  But the trade is poor; it lives from hand to mouth, putting its all into experiments, and forced to sell its vintages.  To find one properly matured and bearing its own name is to be fortune's favorite.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Bearing its own name, I say, and dwell upon the innuendo.</P>
132.sgm:<P>"You want to know why California wine is not drunk in the States?" a San Francisco wine-merchant said to me, after he had shown me through his premises.  "Well, here's the reason."</P>
132.sgm:<P>And opening a large cupboard, fitted with many little drawers, he proceeded to shower me all over with a great variety of gorgeously tinted labels, blue, red, or yellow, stamped with crown or coronet, and hailing from such a profusion of <HI REND="italics">clos</HI>
132.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>"Cha&circ;teau X--?" said I, "I never heard of that."</P>
132.sgm:<P>"I dare say not," said he.  "I have been reading one of X--'s novels."</P>
132.sgm:<P>They were all castles in Spain!  But that, sure enough, is the reason why California wine is not drank in the States.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Napa Valley has been long a seat of the wine-growing industry.  It did not here begin, as it does too often, in the low valley lands along the river, but took at once to the rough foot-hills, where alone it can expect to prosper.  A basking inclination, and stones, to be a reservoir of the day's heat, seem necessary to the soil for wine; the grossness of the earth must be evaporated, its marrow daily melted and refined for ages; until at length these clods that break below our footing, and to the eye appear but common earth, are truly and to the perceiving mind a masterpiece of nature.  The dust of Richebourg, which the wind carries away--what an apotheosis of the dust!  Not man himself can seem a stranger child of that brown, friable powder, than the blood and sun in that old flask behind the fagots.</P>
132.sgm:<P>A Californian vineyard, one of man's outposts in the wilderness, has features of its own.  There is nothing here to remind you of the Rhine or Rhone, or the low <HI REND="italics">co&circ;te d'or</HI>
132.sgm:<P>Some way down the valley below Calistoga, we turned sharply to the south and plunged into the thick of the wood.  A rude trail rapidly mounting; a little stream tinkling by on the one hand, big enough perhaps after the rains, but already yielding up its life; overhead and on all sides a bower of green and tangled thicket, still fragrant and still flower-bespangled by the early season, where thimbleberry played the part of our English hawthorn, and the buckeyes were putting forth their twisted horns of blossom; through all this we struggled toughly upward, canted to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>The two houses, with their vineyards, stood each in a green niche of its own in this steep and narrow forest dell, though they were so near, there was already a good difference in level; and Mr. M'Eckron's head must be a long way under the feet of Mr. Schram.  No more had been cleared than was necessary for cultivation; close around each oasis ran the tangled wood; the glen infolds them; there they lie basking in sun and silence, concealed from all but the clouds and the mountain birds.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Mr. M'Eckron's is a bachelor establishment--a little bit of a wooden house, a small cellar hard by in the hill-side, and a patch of vines planted and tended single-handed by himself.  He had but recently begun; his vines were young, his business young also; but I thought he had the look of the man who succeeds.  He hailed from Greenock; he remembered his father putting him inside Mons Meg, and that touched me home; and we exchanged a word or two of Scotch, which pleased me more than you would fancy.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Mr. Schram's, on the other hand, is the oldest vineyard in the valley--eighteen years old, I think; yet he began a penniless barber, and even after he had broken ground up here with his black malvoisies, continued for long to tramp the valley with his razor.  Now, his place is the picture of prosperity; stuffed birds in the veranda, cellars far dug into the hill-side, and resting on pillars like a bandit's cave--all trimness, varnish, flowers, and sunshine, among the tangled wildwood.  Stout, smiling Mrs. Schram, who has been to Europe and apparently all about the States for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>In this wild spot I did not feel the sacredness of ancient cultivation.  It was still raw, it was no Marathon and no Johannisberg; yet the stirring sunlight, and the growing vines, and the vats and bottles in the cavern, made a pleasant music for the wind.  Here, also, earth's cream was being skimmed and garnered; and the London customers can taste, such as it is, the tang of the earth in this green valley.  So local, so quintessential is a wine, that it seems the very birds in the veranda might communicate a flavor, and that romantic cellar influence the bottle next to be uncorked in London, and the smile of jolly Mr. Schram might mantle in the glass.</P>
132.sgm:<P>But these are but experiments.  All things in this new land are moving further on; the wine-vats and the miner's blasting tools but picket for a night, like Bedouin pavilions; and to-morrow, to fresh woods!  This stir of change and these perpetual echoes of the moving footfall haunt the land.  Men move eternally, still chasing Fortune; and, Fortune found, still wander.  As we drove back to Calistoga, the road lay empty of mere passengers, but its green side was dotted with the camps of travelling families; one cumbered with a great wagon full of household stuff, settlers going to occupy a ranch they had taken up in Mendocino, or perhaps Tehama County; another, a party in dust coats, men and women, whom we found camped in a grove on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV.<LB>THE SCOT ABROAD.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>In a previous chapter I wrote that a man belonged, in these days, to a variety of countries; but the old land is still the true love, the others are but pleasant infidelities.  Scotland is indefinable; it has no unity except upon the map.  Two languages, many dialects, innumerable forms of piety, and countless local patriotisms and prejudices, part us among ourselves more widely than the extreme east and west of that great continent of America.  When I am at home I feel a man from Glasgow to be something like a rival, a man from Barra to be more than half a foreigner.  Yet let us meet in some far country, and, whether we hail from the braes of Manor or the braes of Mar, some ready-made affections join us on the instant.  It is not race.  Look at us.  One is Norse, one Celtic, and another Saxon.  It is not community of tongue.  We have it not among ourselves; and we have it almost to perfection, with English, or Irish, or American.  It is no tie of faith, for we detest each other's errors.  And yet somewhere, deep down in the heart  of each one of us, something yearns for the old land and the old kindly people.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Of all mysteries of the human heart this is perhaps the most inscrutable.  There is no special loveliness in that gray country, with its rainy, sea-beat archipelago; its fields of dark mountains; its unsightly places, black with coal; its treeless sour, unfriendly looking corn-lands; its quaint, gray, castled city, where the bells clash of a Sunday, and the wind squalls, and the salt showers fly and beat.  I do not even know if I desire to live there; but let me hear, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>The happiest lot on earth is to be born a Scotchman.  You must pay for it in many ways, as for all other advantages on earth.  You have to learn the paraphrases and the Shorter Catechism; you generally take to drink; your youth, as far as I can find out, is a time of louder war against society, of more outcry and tears and turmoil, than if you had been born, for instance, in England.  But somehow life is warmer and closer; the hearth burns more redly; the lights of home shine softer on the rainy street; the very names, endeared in verse and music, cling nearer round our hearts.  An Englishman may meet an Englishman tomorrow, upon Chimborazo, and neither of them care; but when the Scotch wine-grower told me of Mons Meg it was like magic.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"From the dim sheilling on the misty island<LB>Mountains divide us, and a world of seas;<LB>Yet still our hearts are true, our hearts are Highland,<LB>And we, in dreams, behold the Hebrides."</HI>
132.sgm:<P>And, Highland and Lowland, all our hearts are Scotch.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Only a few days after I had seen M'Eckron, a message reached me in my cottage.  It was a Scotchman who had come down a long way from the hills to market.  He had heard there was a countryman in Calistoga, and came round to the hotel to see him.  We said a few words to each other; we had not much to say--should never have seen each other had we stayed at home, separated alike in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Another Scotchman there was, a resident, who for the mere love of the common country--douce, serious, religious man--drove me all about the valley, and took as much interest in me as if I had been his son; more, perhaps, for the son has faults too keenly felt, while the abstract countryman is perfect--like a whiff of peats.</P>
132.sgm:<P>And there was yet another.  Upon him I came suddenly, as he was calmly entering my cottage, his mind quite evidently bent on plunder; a man of about fifty, filthy, ragged, roguish, with a chimney-pot hat and a tail coat, and a pursing of his mouth that might have been envied by an elder of the kirk.  He had just such a face as I have seen a dozen times behind the plate.</P>
132.sgm:<P>"Halloo, sir!" I cried.  "Where are you going?" turned round without a quiver.</P>
132.sgm:<P>"You're a Scotchman, sir?" he said, gravely.  "So am I; I come from Aberdeen.  This is my card," presenting me with a piece of pasteboard which he had raked out of some gutter in the period of the rains.  "I was just examining this palm," he continued indicating the misbegotten plant before our door, "which is the largest sp <HI REND="italics">a</HI>
132.sgm: cimen I have yet observed in Califo <HI REND="italics">a</HI>
132.sgm:<P>There were four or five larger within sight.  But where was the use of argument?  He produced a tape-line, made me help him to measure the tree at the level of the ground, and entered the figures in a large and filthy pocket-book, all with the gravity of Solomon.  He then thanked me profusely, remarking that such little services were due between countrymen; shook hands with me, "for auld langsyne," as he said; and took himself solemnly away, radiating dirt and humbug as he went.</P>
132.sgm:<P>A more impudent rascal I have never seen; and had he been an American I should have raged.  But then he came from Aberdeen.</P>
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132.sgm:<P>A month or two after this encounter of mine there came a Scot to Sacramento--perhaps from Aberdeen.  Any way, there never was any one more Scotch in this wide world.  He could sing and dance, and drink, I presume; and he played the pipes with vigor and success.  All the Scotch in Sacramento became infatuated with him, and spent their spare time and money driving him about in an open cab, between drinks, while he blew himself scarlet at the pipes.  This is a very sad story.  After he had borrowed money from every one, he and his pipes suddenly disappeared from Sacramento, and when I last heard the police were looking for him.</P>
132.sgm:<P>I cannot say how this story amused me, when I felt myself so thoroughly ripe on both sides to be duped in the same way.</P>
132.sgm:<P>It is at least a curious thing, to conclude, that the races which wander widest, Jews and Scotch, should be the most clannish in the world.  But perhaps these two are cause and effect: "For ye were strangers in the land of Egypt."</P>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WITH THE CHILDREN OF ISRAEL</HEAD>
132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>I.<LB>TO INTRODUCE MR. KELMAR.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>One thing in this new country very particularly strikes a stranger, and that is the number of antiquities.  Already there have been many cycles of population succeeding each other, and passing away and leaving behind them relics.  These, standing on into changed times, strike the imagination as forcibly as any pyramid or feudal tower.  The towns, like the vineyards, are experimentally founded; they grow great and prosper by passing occasions; and when the lode comes to an end, and the miners move elsewhere, the town remains behind them, like Palmyra in the desert.  I suppose there are in no country in the world so many deserted towns as here inCalifornia.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The whole neighborhood of Mount Saint Helena, now so quiet and rural, was once alive with mining camps and villages.  Here there would be two thousand souls under canvas; there one thousand or fifteen hundred ensconced, as if forever, in a town of comfortable houses.  But the luck had failed; the mines petered out; the army of miners had departed, and left this quarter of the world to the rattlesnakes and deer and grizzlies, and to the slower but steadier advance of husbandry.</P>
132.sgm:<P>It was with an eye on one of these deserted places, Pine Flat, on the Geysers road, that we had come first to Calistoga.  There is something singularly enticing in the idea of going, rent-free, into a ready-made house.  And to the British merchant, sitting at home at ease, it may appear that, with such a roof over your head and a spring of clear water hard by, the whole problem of the squatter's existence would be solved.  Food, however, has yet to be considered.  I will go as far as most people on tinned meats; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>It is really very disheartening how we depend on other people in this life.  <HI REND="italics">"Mihi est propositum</HI>
132.sgm:," as you may see by the motto, " <HI REND="italics">id quod regibus</HI>
132.sgm:<P>Now, my principal adviser in this matter was one whom I will call Kelmar.  That was not what he called himself, but as soon as I set eyes on him I knew it was or ought to be his name; I am sure it will be his name among the angels.  Kelmar was the store-keeper, a Russian Jew, good-natured, in a very thriving way of business, and, on equal terms, one of the most serviceable men.  He also had something of the expression of a Scotch country elder, who, by some peculiarity, should chance to be a Hebrew.  He had a projecting under lip, with which he continually smiled, or rather smirked.  Mrs. Kelmar was a singularly kind woman; and the oldest son had quite a dark and romantic bearing, and might be heard on summer evenings playing sentimental airs on the violin.</P>
132.sgm:<P>I had no idea at the time I made his acquaintance what an important person Kelmar was.  But the Jew store-keepers of California, profiting at once by the needs and habits of the people, have made themselves in too many cases the tyrants of the rural population.  Credit is offered, is pressed on the new customer, and when once he is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>For some reason Kelmar always shook his head at the mention of Pine Flat, and for some days I thought he disapproved of the whole scheme and was proportionately sad.  One fine morning, however, he met me, wreathed in smiles.  He had found the very place for me--Silverado, another old mining town, right up the mountain.  Rufe Hanson, the hunter, could take care of us--fine people the Hansons; we should be close to the Toll House, where the Lakeport stage called daily; it was the best place for my health, besides.  Rufe had been consumptive, and was now quite a strong man, ain't it?  In short, the place and all its accompaniments seemed made for us on purpose.</P>
132.sgm:<P>He took me to his back door, whence, as from every point of Calistoga, Mount Saint Helena could be seen towering in the air.  There, in the nick, just where the eastern foot-hills joined the mountain, and she herself began to rise above the zone of forest--there was Silverado.  The name had already pleased me; the high station pleased me still more.  I began to inquire with some eagerness.  It was but a little while ago that Silverado was a great place.  The mine--a silver mine, of course--had promised great things.  There was quite a lively population, with several hotels and boarding-houses; and Kelmar himself had opened a branch store and done extremely well.  "Ain't it!" he said, appealing to his wife.  Ann she said: "Yes, extremely well."  Now there was no one living in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>I could not help perceiving at the time that there was something underneath; that no unmixed desire to have us comfortably settled had inspired the Kelmars with this flow of words.  But I was impatient to be gone, to be about my kingly project; and when we were offered seats in Kelmar's wagon I accepted on the spot.  The plan of their next Sunday's outing took them, by good fortune, over the border into Lake County.  They would carry us so far, drop us at the Toll House, present us to the Hansons, and call for us again on Monday morning early.</P>
132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II.<LB>FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SILVERADO.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>We were to leave by six precisely; that was solemnly pledged on both sides; and a messenger came to us the last thing at night to remind us of the hour.</P>
132.sgm:<P>But it was eight before we got clear of Calistoga; Kelmar, Mrs. Kelmar, a friend of theirs whom we named Abramina, her little daughter, my wife, myself, and stowed away behind us, a cluster of ship's coffee-kettles.  These last were highly ornamental in the sheen of their bright tin, but I could invent no reason for their presence.  Our carriage full reckoned up, as near as we could get at, some three hundred years to the six of us.  Four of the six, besides, were Hebrews.  But I never, in all my life, was conscious of so strong an atmosphere of holiday.  No word was spoken but of pleasure; and even when we drove in silence, nods and smiles went round the party like refreshments.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The sun shone out of a cloudless sky.  Close at the zenith rode the belated moon, still clearly visible, and, along one margin, even bright.  The wind blew a gale <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>For some two miles we rattled through the valley, skirting the eastern foot-hills; then we struck off to the right, through haugh-land, and presently, crossing a dry water-course, entered the Toll-road, or, to be more local, entered on "the grade."  The road mounts the near shoulder of Mount Saint Helena, bound northward into Lake County.  In one place it skirts along the edge of a narrow and deep canyon, filled with trees, and I was glad, indeed, not to be driven at this point by the dashing Foss.  Kelmar, with his unvarying smile, jogging to the motion of the trap, drove for all the world like a good, plain, country clergyman at home; and I profess I blessed him unawares for his timidity.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Vineyards and deep meadows, islanded and framed with thicket, gave place more as we ascended to woods of oak and madrona, dotted with enormous pines.  It was these pines, as they shot above the lower woods, that produced that pencilling of single trees I had so often remarked from the valley.  Thence, looking up and from however far, each fir stands separate against the sky no bigger than an eyelash; and all together lend a quaint, fringed aspect to the hills.  The oak is no baby; even a madrona upon these spurs of Mount Saint Helena, comes to a fine bulk and ranks with forest trees; but the pines look down upon the rest for underwood.  As Mount Saint Helena among her foot-hills, so these dark giants out-top their fellow-vegetables.  Alas! if they had left the redwoods the pines, in turn, would have been dwarfed.  But the redwoods, fallen from their high estate, are serving as family bedsteads, or yet more humbly as field fences, along all Napa Valley.</P>
132.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>A rough smack of resin was in the air, and a crystal mountain purity.  It came pouring over these green slopes by the ocean full.  The woods sung aloud, and gave largely of their healthful breath.  Gladness seemed to inhabit these upper zones, and we had left indifference behind us in the valley.  "I to the hills will lift mine eyes!"  There are days in a life when thus to climb out of the lowlands seems like scaling heaven.</P>
132.sgm:<P>As we continued to ascend the wind fell upon us with increasing strength.  It was a wonder how the two stout horses managed to pull us up that steep incline and still face the athletic opposition of the wind, or how their great eyes were able to endure the dust.  Ten minutes after we went by a tree fell, blocking the road, and even before us leaves were thickly strewn, and boughs had fallen, large enough to make the passage difficult.  But now we were hard by the summit.  The road crosses the ridge, just in the nick that Kelmar showed me from below, and then, without pause, plunges down a deep, thickly wooded glen on the further side.  At the highest point a trail strikes up the main hill to the leftward; and that leads to Silverado.  A hundred yards beyond, and in a kind of elbow of the glen, stands the Toll House Hotel.  We came up the one side, were caught upon the summit by the whole weight of the wind as it poured over into Napa Valley, and a minute after had drawn up in shelter, but all buffeted and breathless, at the Toll House door.</P>
132.sgm:<P>A water-tank, and stables, and a gray house of two stories, with gable ends and a veranda, are jammed hard against the hill-side, just where a stream has cut for itself a narrow canyon, filled with pines.  The pines go right up overhead; a little more and the stream might have played, like a fire-hose, on the Toll House roof.  In front the ground drops as sharply as it rises behind.  There is just room for the road and a sort of promontory of croquet ground, and then you can lean over the edge, and look deep below you through the wood.  I said croquet <HI REND="italics">ground</HI>
132.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:not <HI REND="italics">green</HI>
132.sgm:<P>On our arrival there followed a gay scene in the bar.  I was presented to Mr. Corwin, the landlord; to Mr. Jennings, the engineer, who lives there for his health; to Mr. Hoddy, a most pleasant little gentleman, once a member of the Ohio Legislature, again the editor of a local paper, and now, with undiminished dignity, keeping the Toll House bar.  I had a number of drinks and cigars bestowed on me, and enjoyed a famous opportunity of seeing Kelmar in his glory, friendly, radiant, smiling, steadily edging one of the ship's kettles on the reluctant Corwin.  Corwin, plainly aghast, resisted gallantly, and for that bout victory crowned his arms.</P>
132.sgm:<P>At last we set forth for Silverado on foot.  Kelmar and his jolly Jew girls were full of the sentiment of Sunday outings, breathed geniality and vagueness, and suffered a little vile boy from the hotel to lead them here and there about the woods.  For three people all so old, so bulky in body, and belonging to a race so venerable, they could not but surprise us by their extreme and almost imbecile youthfulness of spirit.  They were only going to stay ten minutes at the Toll House; had they not twenty long miles of road before them on the other side?  Stay to dinner?  Not they!  Put up the horses?  Never.  Let us attach them to the veranda by a wisp of straw rope, such as would not have held a person's hat on that blustering day.  And with all these protestations of hurry they proved irresponsible like children.  Kelmar himself, shrewd old Russian Jew, with a smirk that seemed just to have concluded a bargain to his satisfaction, intrusted himself and us devotedly to that boy.  Yet the boy was patiently fallacious; and for that matter a most unsympathetic urchin, raised <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>However, we came forth at length, and as by accident, upon a lawn, sparse planted like an orchard, but with forest instead of fruit-trees.  That was the site of Silverado mining town.  A piece of ground was levelled up, where Kelmar's store had been; and facing that we saw Rufe Hanson's house, still bearing on its front the legend <HI REND="italics">Silverado Hotel</HI>
132.sgm:<P>Mrs. Hanson was at home alone, we found.  Rufe had been out late after a "bar," had risen late, and was now gone, it did not clearly appear whither.  Perhaps he had had wind of Kelmar's coming, and was now ensconced among the underwood, or watching us from the shoulder of the mountain.  We, hearing there were no houses to be had, were for immediately giving up all hopes of Silverado.  But this, somehow, was not to Kelmar's fancy.  He first proposed that we should "camp someveres around, ain't it?" waving his hand cheerily, as though to weave a spell; and when that was firmly rejected, he decided that we must take up house with the Hansons.  Mrs. Hanson had been, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Thither we went; the Jews, who should already have been miles into Lake County, still cheerily accompanying us.  For about a furlong we followed a good road along the hill-side through the forest, until suddenly that road widened out and came abruptly to an end.  A canyon, woody below, red, rocky, and naked overhead, was here walled across by a dump of rolling stones, dangerously steep, and from twenty to thirty feet in height.  A rusty iron chute on the wooden legs came flying, like a monstrous gargoyle, across the parapet.  It was down this that they poured the precious ore; and below here the carts stood to wait their lading, and carry it millward down the mountain.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The whole canyon was so entirely blocked, as if by some rude guerilla fortification, that we could only mount by lengths of wooden ladder, fixed in the hill-side.  These led us round the further corner of the dump; and when they were at an end we still persevered over loose rubble and wading deep in poison-oak, till we struck a triangular platform, filling up the whole glen, and shut in on either hand by bold projections of the mountain.  Only in front the place was open like the proscenium of a theatre, and we looked forth into a great realm of air, and down upon tree-tops and hill-tops and far and near on wild and varied country.  The place still stood as on the day it was deserted; a line of iron rails with a bifurcation; a truck in working order; a world of lumber, old wood, old iron; a blacksmith's forge on one side, half buried in the leaves of dwarf madronas; and on the other, an old brown wooden house.</P>
132.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Fanny and I dashed at the house.  It consisted of three rooms, and was so plastered against the hill that one room was right atop of another, that the upper floor was more than twice as large as the lower, and that all three apartments must be entered from a different side and level.  Not a window-sash remained.  The door of the lower room was smashed, and one panel hung in splinters.  We entered that, and found a fair amount of rubbish; sand and gravel that had been sifted in there by the mountain winds; straw, sticks and stones; a table, a barrel; a plate-rack on the wall; two home-made bootjacks, signs of miners and their boots; and a pair of papers, pinned on the boarding, headed respectively "Funnel No. 1" and "Funnel No. 2," but with the tails torn away.  The window, sashless of course, was choked with the green and sweetly smelling foliage of a bay; and through a chink in the floor a spray of poison-oak had shot up and was handsomely prospering in the interior.  It was my first care to cut away that poison-oak, Fanny standing by at a respectful distance.</P>
132.sgm:<P>That was our first improvement by which we took possession.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The room immediately above could only be entered by a plank propped against the threshold, along which the intruder must foot it gingerly, clutching for support to sprays of poison-oak the proper product of the country.  Herein was, on either hand, a triple tier of beds, where miners had once lain; and the other gable was pierced by a sashless window and a doorless door-way opening on the air of heaven five feet above the ground.  As for the third room, which entered squarely from the ground level, but higher up the hill and further up the canyon, it contained only rubbish and the uprights for another triple tier of beds.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The whole building was overhung by a bold, lion-like, red rock.  Poison-oak, sweet-bay trees, calcanthus, brush, and chaparral, grew freely but sparsely all about it.  In front, in the strong sunshine, the platform lay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Following back into the canyon, among the mass of rotting plant and through the flowering bushes, we came to a great crazy staging, with a wry windlass on the top; and clambering up, we could look into an open shaft, leading edgeways down into the bowels of the mountain, trickling with water and lighted by some stray sun-gleams, whence I know not.</P>
132.sgm:<P>In that quiet place the still, far-away tinkle of the water-drops was loudly audible.  Close by, another shaft led edgeways up into the superincumbent shoulder of the hill.  It lay partly open; and sixty or a hundred feet above our head, we could see the strata propped apart by solid wooden wedges, and a pine, half undermined, precariously nodding on the verge.  Here also a rugged, horizontal tunnel ran straight into the unsunned bowels of the rock.  This secure angle in the mountain's flank was, even on this wild day, as still as my lady's chamber.  But in the tunnel a cold, wet draught tempestuously blew.  Nor have I ever known that place otherwise than cold and windy.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Such was our first prospect of Juan Silverado.  I own I looked for something different: a clique of neighborly houses on a village green, we shall say, all empty to be sure, but swept and varnished; a trout stream brawling by; great elms or chestnuts, humming with bees and nested in by song birds; and the mountains standing round about, as at Jerusalem.  Here, mountain and house and the old tools of industry were all alike rusty and downfalling.  The hill was here wedged up, and there poured forth its bowels in a spout of broken mineral; man with his picks and powder, and nature with her own great blasting tools of sun and rain, laboring together at the ruin of that proud mountain.  The view up the canyon was a glimpse of devastation; dry red minerals sliding together, here and there a crag, here and there dwarf thicket clinging in the general glissade, and over all a broken outline trenching on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>After we had got back to the Toll House, the Jews were not long of striking forward.  But I observed that one of the Hanson lads came down, before their departure, and returned with a ship's kettle.  Happy Hansons!  Nor was it until after Kelmar was gone, if I remember rightly, that Rufe put in an appearance to arrange the details of our installation.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The latter part of the day, Fanny and I sat in the veranda of the Toll House, utterly stunned by the uproar of the wind among the trees on the other side of the valley.  Sometimes, we would have it, it was like a sea, but it was not various enough for that; and again, we thought it like the roar of a cataract, but it was too changeful for the cataract; and then we would decide, speaking in sleepy voices, that it could be compared with nothing but itself.  My mind was entirely preoccupied by the noise.  I hearkened to it by the hour, gapingly hearkened, and let my cigarette go out.  Sometimes the wind would make a sally nearer hand, and send a shrill, whistling crash among the foliage on our side of the glen; and sometimes a backdraught would strike into the elbow where we sat, and cast the gravel and torn leaves into our faces.  But for the most part, this great, streaming gale passed unweariedly by us into Napa Valley, not two hundred yards away, visible by the tossing boughs, stunningly audible, and yet not moving a hair upon our heads.  So it blew all night long while I was writing up my journal, and after we were in bed, under a cloudless, star-set heaven; and so it was blowing still next morning when we rose.</P>
132.sgm:<P>It was a laughable thought to us, what had become of our cheerful, wandering Hebrews.  We could not suppose they had reached a destination.  The meanest boy could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>THE RETURN.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Next morning we were up by half past five, according to agreement, and it was ten by the clock before our Jew boys returned to pick us up; Kelmar, Mrs. Kelmar, and Abramina, all smiling from ear to ear, and full of tales of the hospitality they had found on the other side.  It had not gone unrewarded; for I observed with interest that the ship's kettles, all but one, had been "placed."  Three Lake County families, at least, endowed for life with a ship's kettle.  Come, this was no misspent Sunday.  The absence of the kettles told its own story; our Jews said nothing about them; but, on the other hand, they said many kind and comely things about the people they had met.  The two women, in particular, had been charmed out of themselves by the sight of a young girl surrounded by her admirers; all evening, it appeared, they had been triumphing together in the girl's innocent successes, and to this natural and unselfish joy they gave expression in language that was beautiful by its simplicity and truth.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Take them for all in all, few people have done my heart more good; they seemed so thoroughly entitled to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:happiness, and to enjoy it in so large a measure and so free from after-thought; almost they persuaded me to be a Jew.  There was, indeed, a chink of money in their talk.  They particularly commended people who were well to do.  " <HI REND="italics">He</HI>
132.sgm:<P>No sooner had they returned than the scene of yesterday began again.  The horses were not even tied with a straw rope this time--it was not worth while; and Kelmar disappeared into the bar, leaving them under a tree on the other side of the road.  I had to devote myself.  I stood under the shadow of that tree for, I suppose, hard upon an hour, and had not the heart to be angry.  Once some one remembered me, and brought me out half a tumblerful of the playful, innocuous American cocktail.  I drank it, and lo! veins of living fire ran down my leg; and then a focus of conflagration remained seated in my stomach, not unpleasantly, for a quarter of an hour.  I love these sweet, fiery pangs, but I will not court them.  The bulk of the time I spent in repeating as much French poetry as I could remember to the horses, who seemed to enjoy it hugely.  And now it went:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O ma vielle Font-gorges<LB>Ou&acute; volent les rouges-gorges:"</HI>
132.sgm:<P>and again to a more trampling measure:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Et tout tremble, Irun, Coi&die;mbre,<LB>Santander, Almodovar,<LB>Sito&circ;t qu' on entend le timbre<LB>Des cymbales de Bivar."</HI>
132.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>The redbreasts and the brooks of Europe, in that dry and songless land; brave old names and wars, strong cities, cymbals, and bright armor, in that nook of the mountain, sacred only to the Indian and the bear!  This is still the strangest thing in all man's travelling, that he should carry about with him incongruous memories.  There is no foreign land; it is the traveller only that is foreign, and now and again, by a flash of recollection, lights up the contrasts of the earth.</P>
132.sgm:<P>But while I was thus wandering in my fancy, great feats had been transacted in the bar.  Corwin the bold had fallen, Kelmar was again crowned with laurels, and the last of the ship's kettles had changed hands.  If I had ever doubted the purity of Kelmar's motives, if I had ever suspected him of a single eye to business in his eternal dallyings, now at least, when the last kettle was disposed of, my suspicions must have been allayed.  I dare not guess how much more time was wasted; nor how often we drove off, merely to drive back again and renew uninterrupted conversations about nothing, before the Toll House was fairly left behind.  Alas! and not a mile down the grade there stands a ranch in a sunny vineyard, and here we must all dismount again and enter.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Only the old lady was at home, Mrs. Guele, a brown old Swiss dame, the picture of honesty; and with her we drank a bottle of wine and had an age-long conversation, which would have been highly delightful if Fanny and I had not been faint with hunger.  The ladies each narrated the story of her marriage, our two Hebrews with the prettiest combination of sentiment and financial pathos.  Abramina, specially, endeared herself with every word.  She was as simple, natural, and engaging as a kid that should have been brought up to the business of a money-changer.  One touch was so resplendently Hebraic that I cannot pass it over.  When her "old man" wrote home for her from America, her old man's family would not entrust her with the money for the passage till she had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Mrs. Guele told of her home-sickness up here in the long winters; of her honest, country-woman troubles and alarms upon the journey; how in the bank of Frankfort she had feared lest the banker, after having taken her check, should deny all knowledge of it--a fear I have myself every time I go to a bank; and how crossing the Luneburger Heath, an old lady, witnessing her trouble and finding whither she was bound, had given her "the blessing of a person eighty years old, which would be sure to bring her safely to the States.  And the first thing I did," added Mrs. Guele, "was to fall down-stairs."</P>
132.sgm:<P>At length we got out of the house, and some of us into the trap, when--judgment of Heaven!--here came Mr. Guele from his vineyard.  So another quarter of an hour went by; till at length, at our earnest pleading, we set forth again in earnest, Fanny and I white faced and silent, but the Jews still smiling.  The heart fails me.  There was yet another stoppage!  And we drove at last into Calistoga past two in the afternoon, Fanny and I having breakfasted at six in the morning, eight mortal hours before.  We were a pallid couple; but still the Jews were smiling.</P>
132.sgm:<P>So ended our excursion with the village usurers; and now that it was done, we had no more idea of the nature of the business, nor of the part we had been playing in it, than the child unborn.  That all the people we had met were the slaves of Kelmar, though in various degrees of servitude; that we ourselves had been sent up the mountain in the interests of none but Kelmar; that the money we laid out, dollar by dollar, cent by cent, and through the hands of various intermediaries, should all hop ultimately into Kelmar's till--these were facts that we only grew to recognize in the course of time and by the accumulation of evidence.  At length all doubt was quieted, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:when one of the kettle-holders confessed.  Stopping his trap in the moonlight, a little way out of Calistoga, he told me, in so many words, that he dare not show his face there with an empty pocket.  "You see, I don't mind if it was only five dollars, Mr. Stevens," he said, "but I must give Mr. Kelmar <HI REND="italics">something</HI>
132.sgm:<P>Even now, when the whole tyranny is plain to me I cannot find it in my heart to be as angry as perhaps I should be with the Hebrew tyrant.  The whole game of business is beggar my neighbor; and though perhaps that game looks uglier when played at such close quarters and on so small a scale, it is none the more intrinsically inhumane for that.  The village usurer is not so sad a feature of humanity and human progress as the millionaire manufacturer, fattening on the toil and loss of thousands, and yet declaiming from the platform against the greed and dishonesty of landlords.  If it were fair for Cobden to buy up land from owners whom he thought unconscious of its proper value, it was fair enough for my Russian Jew to give credit to his farmers.  Kelmar, if he was unconscious of the beam in his own eye, was at least silent in the matter of his brother's mote.</P>
132.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE ACT OF SQUATTING.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>There were four of us squatters--myself and my wife, the King and Queen of Silverado; Sam, the crown prince; and Chuchu, the grand duke.  Chuchu, a setter crossed with spaniel, was the most unsuited for a rough life.  He had been nurtured tenderly in the society of ladies; his heart was large and soft; he regarded the soft cushion as a bed-rock necessary to existence.  Though about the size of a sheep, he loved to sit in ladies' laps; he never said a bad word in all his blameless days; and if he had seen a flute, I am sure he could have played upon it by nature.  It may seem hard to say it of a dog, but Chuchu was a tame cat.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The king and queen, the grand duke, and a basket of cold provender for immediate use, set forth from Calistoga in a double buggy; the crown prince, on horseback, led the way like an outrider.  Bags and boxes and a second-hand stove were to follow close upon our heels by Hanson's team.</P>
132.sgm:<P>It was a beautiful still day; the sky was one field of azure.  Not a leaf moved, not a speck appeared in the heavens.  Only from the summit of the mountain one little snowy wisp of cloud after another kept detaching itself, like smoke from a volcano, and blowing southward in some high stream of air: Mount Saint Helena still at her interminable task, making the weather, like a Lapland witch.</P>
132.sgm:<P>By noon we had come in sight of the mill; a great brown building, half-way up the hill, big as a factory, two stories high, and with tanks and ladders along the roof; which, as a pendicle of Silverado mine, we held to be an outlying province of our own.  Thither, then, we went, crossing the valley by a grassy trail; and there lunched out of the basket, sitting in a kind of portico, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>By two we had been landed at the mine, the buggy was gone again, and we were left to our own reflections and the basket of cold provender, until Hanson should arrive.  Hot as it was by the sun, there was something chill in such a homecoming, in that world of wreck and rust, splinter and rolling gravel, where for so many years no fire had smoked.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Silverado platform filled the whole width of the canyon.  Above, as I have said, this was a wild, red, stony gully in the mountains; but below it was a wooded dingle.  And through this, I was told, there had gone a path between the mine and the Toll House--our natural northwest passage to civilization.  I found and followed it, clearing my way as I went through fallen branches and dead trees.  It went straight down that steep canyon, till it brought you out abruptly over the roofs of the hotel.  There was nowhere any break in the descent.  It almost seemed as if, were you to drop a stone down the old iron chute at our platform, it would never rest until it hopped upon the Toll House shingles.  Signs were not wanting of the ancient greatness of Silverado.  The footpath was well marked, and had been well trodden in the old days by thirsty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>The stream thenceforward stole along the bottom of the dingle, and made, for that dry land, a pleasant warbling in the leaves.  Once, I suppose, it ran splashing down the whole length of the canyon, but now its head waters had been tapped by the shaft of Silverado, and for a great part of its course it wandered sunless among the joints of the mountain.  No wonder that it should better its pace when it sees, far before it, daylight whitening in the arch, or that it should come trotting forth into the sunlight with a song.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The two stages had gone by when I got down, and the Toll House stood, dozing in the sun and dust and silence, like a place enchanted.  My mission was after hay for bedding, and that I was readily promised.  But when I mentioned that we were waiting for Rufe, the people shook their heads.  Rufe was not a regular man any way, it seemed; and if he got playing poker--  Well, poker was too many for Rufe.  I had not heard them bracketed together; but it seemed a natural conjunction, and commended itself swiftly to my fears; and as soon as I returned to Silverado and had told my story, we practically gave Hanson up, and set ourselves to do what we could find doable in our desert-island state.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The lower room had been the assayer's office.  The floor was thick with <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
132.sgm: --part human, from the former occupants; part natural, sifted in by mountain winds.  In a sea of red dust there swam or floated sticks, boards, hay, straw, stones, and paper; ancient newspapers, above <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>CALISTOGA MINE, May 3d, 1875.</P>
132.sgm:<P>JOHN STANLEY</P>
132.sgm:<P>TO S. CHAPMAN, CR.</P>
132.sgm:<P>To board from April 1st to April 30th,<HSEP>$25 75</P>
132.sgm:<P>"   "   "   May 1st to 3d,<HSEP>2 00</P>
132.sgm:<P>$27 75</P>
132.sgm:<P>Where is John Stanley mining now?  Where is S. Chapman, within whose hospitable walls we were to lodge?  The date was but five years old, but in that time the world had changed for Silverado; like Palmyra in the desert, it had outlived its people and its purpose; we camped, like Layard, amid ruins, and these names spoke to us of pre-historic time.  A bootjack, a pair of boots, a dog-hutch, and these bills of Mr. Chapman's were the only speaking relics that we disinterred from all that vast Silverado rubbish heap; but what would I not have given to unearth a letter, a pocket-book, a diary, only a ledger, or a roll of names, to take me back, in a more personal manner, to the past?  It pleases me, besides, to fancy that Stanley or Chapman, or one of their companions, might light upon this chronicle, and be struck by the name, and read some news of their anterior home, coming, as it were, out of a subsequent epoch of history in that quarter of the world.</P>
132.sgm:<P>As we were tumbling the mingled rubbish on the floor, kicking it with our feet, and groping for these written evidences of the past, Sam, with a somewhat whitened face, produced a paper bag.  "What's this?" said he.  It contained a granulated powder, something of the color of Gregory's Mixture, but rosier; and as there were several of the bags, and each more or less broken, the powder was spread widely on the floor.  Had any of us ever seen giant powder?  No, nobody had; and instantly there grew up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Fanny, to add to our happiness, told us a story of a gentleman who had camped one night, like ourselves, by a deserted mine.  He was a handy, thrifty fellow, and looked right and left for plunder, but all he could lay his hands on was a can of oil.  After dark he had to see to the horses with a lantern; and not to miss an opportunity, filled up his lamp from the oil-can.  Thus equipped, he set forth into the forest.  A little while after, his friends heard a loud explosion; the mountain echoes bellowed, and then all was still.  On examination the can proved to contain oil, with the trifling addition of nitro-glycerine; but no research disclosed a trace of either man or lantern.</P>
132.sgm:<P>It was a pretty sight, after this anecdote, to see us sweeping out the giant powder.  It seemed never to be far enough away.  And, after all, it was some rock pounded for assay.</P>
132.sgm:<P>So much for the lower room.  We scraped some of the rougher dirt off the floor, and left it.  That was our sitting-room and kitchen, though there was nothing to sit upon but the table, and no provision for a fire except a hole in the roof of the room above, which had once contained the chimney of a stove.</P>
132.sgm:<P>To that upper room we now proceeded.  There were the eighteen bunks in a double tier, nine on either hand, where from eighteen to thirty-six miners had once snored together all night long, John Stanley, perhaps, snoring loudest.  There was the roof, with a hole in it through which the sun now shot an arrow.  There was the floor, in much the same state as the one below, though, perhaps, there was more hay, and certainly there was the added ingredient of broken glass, the man who stole the window-frames having apparently made a miscarriage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Here, also, the handiwork of man lay ruined; but the plants were all alive and thriving; the view below us was fresh with the colors of nature; and we had exchanged a dim, human garret for a corner, even although it were untidy, of the blue hall of heaven.  Not a bird, not a beast, not a reptile.  There was no noise in that part of the world, save when we passed beside the staging, and heard the water musically falling in the shaft.</P>
132.sgm:<P>We wandered to and fro.  We searched among the drift of lumber--wood andiron, nails and rails, and sleepers and the wheels of trucks.  We gazed up the cleft into the bosom of the mountain.  We sat by the margin of the dump and saw, far below us, the green tree-tops standing still in the clear air.  Beautiful perfumes, breaths of bay, resin, and nutmeg, came to us more often and grew sweeter and sharper as the afternoon declined.  But still there was no word of Hanson.</P>
132.sgm:<P>I set to with pick and shovel, and deepened the pool behind the shaft, till we were sure of sufficient water for the morning; and by the time I had finished, the sun had begun to go down behind the mountain shoulder, the platform was plunged in quiet shadow, and a chill descended from the sky.  Night began early in our cleft.  Before us, over the margin of the dump, we could see the sun still striking aslant into the wooded niche below, and on the battlemented, pine-bescattered ridges on the further side.</P>
132.sgm:<P>There was no stove, of course, and no hearth in our lodging, so we betook ourselves to the blacksmith's forge, across the platform.  If the platform be taken as a stage, and the outcurving margin of the dump to represent the line of the foot-lights, then our house would be the first wing on the actor's left, and this blacksmith's forge, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>It was between seven and eight before Hanson arrived, with a wagon full of our effects and two of his wife's relatives to lend him a hand.  The elder showed surprising strength.  He would pick up a huge packing-case, full of books of all things, swing it on his shoulder, and away up to the two crazy ladders and the break-neck spout of rolling mineral, familiarly termed a path, that led from the car-track to our house.  Even for a man unburdened, the ascent was toilsome and precarious; but Irvine scaled it with a light foot, carrying box after box, as the hero whisks the stage child up the practicable foot-way beside the water-fall of the fifth act.  With so strong a helper, the business was speedily transacted.  Soon the assayer's office was thronged with our belongings, piled higgledy-piggledy, and upside down about the floor.  There were our boxes, indeed, but my wife had left the keys in Calistoga.  There was the stove, but alas! our carriers had forgot the chimney, and lost one of the plates along the road.  The Silverado problem was scarce solved.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Rufe himself was grave and good-natured over his share of blame; he even, if I remember right, expressed regret.  But his crew, to my astonishment and anger, grinned from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>So they took their departure, leaving me still staring, and we resigned ourselves to wait for their return.  The fire in the forge had been suffered to go out, and we were one and all too weary to kindle another.  We dined, or, not to take that word in vain, we eat after a fashion in the nightmare disorder of the assayer's office, perched among boxes.  A single candle lighted us.  It could scarce be called a house-warming; for there was, of course, no fire, and with the two open doors and the open window gaping on the night, like breaches in a fortress, it began to grow rapidly chill.  Talk ceased; nobody moved but the unhappy Chuchu, still in quest of sofa-cushions, who tumbled complainingly among the trunks.  It required a certain happiness of disposition to look forward hopefully, from so dismal a beginning, across the brief hours of night to the warm shining of to-morrow's sun.</P>
132.sgm:<P>But the hay arrived at last, and we turned, with our last spark of courage, to the bedroom.  We had improved the entrance, but it was still a kind of rope-walking; and it would have been droll to see us mounting, one after another, by candle-light, under the open stars.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The western door--that which looked up the canyon, and through which we entered by our bridge of flying plank--was still entire, a handsome panelled door, the most finished piece of carpentry in Silverado.  And the two lowest bunks next to this we roughly filled with hay for that night's use.  Through the opposite, or eastern-looking gable, with its open door and window, a faint, diffused starshine came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE HUNTER'S FAMILY.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>THERE is quite a large race or class of people in America for whom we scarcely seemed to have a parallel in England.  Of pure white blood, they are unknown or unrecognizable in towns; inhabit the fringe of settlements and the deep, quiet places of the country; rebellious to all labor, and pettily thievish, like the English gypsies; rustically ignorant, but with a touch of wood lore and the dexterity of the savage.  Where they came from is a moot point.  At the time of the war they poured north in crowds to escape the conscription; lived during summer on fruits, wild animals, and petty theft; and at the approach of winter, when these supplies failed, built great fires in the forest, and there died stoically by starvation.  They were widely scattered, however, and easily recognized.  Loutish, but not ill-looking, they will sit all day, swinging their legs on a field fence, the mind seemingly as devoid of all reflection as a Suffolk peasant's, careless of politics, for the most part incapable of reading, but with a rebellious vanity and a strong sense of independence.  Hunting is their most congenial business, or, if the occasion offers, a little amateur detection.  In tracking a criminal, following a particular horse along a beaten highway, and drawing inductions from a hair or a foot-print, one of those somnolent, grinning Hodges will suddenly display activity of body and <HI REND="italics">finesse</HI>
132.sgm:<P>I will not say that the Hanson family was Poor White, because the name savors of offense; but I may go as far <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:as this--they were, in many points, not unsimilar to the people usually so called.  Rufe himself combined two of the qualifications, for he was both a hunter and an amateur detective.  It was he who pursued Russel and Dollar, the robbers of the Lakeport stage, and captured them the very morning after the exploit, while they were still sleeping in a hay-field.  Russel, a drunken Scotch carpenter, was even an acquaintance of his own, and he expressed much grave commiseration for his fate.  In all that he said and did, Rufe was grave.  I never saw him hurried.  When he spoke, he took out his pipe with ceremonial deliberation, looked east and west, and then, in quiet tones and few words, stated his business or told his story.  His gait was to match; it would never have surprised you if, at any step, he had turned round and walked away again, so warily and slowly, and with so much seeming hesitation did he go about.  He lay long in bed in the morning--rarely, indeed, rose before noon; he loved all games, from poker to clerical croquet; and in the Toll House croquet-ground I have seen him toiling at the latter with the devotion of a curate.  He took an interest in education, was an active member of the local school-board, and when I was there he had recently lost the school-house key.  His wagon was broken, but it never seemed to occur to him to mend it.  Like all truly idle people, he had an artistic eye.  He chose the print stuff for his wife's dresses, and counselled her in the making of a patchwork quilt, always, as she thought, wrongly, but to the more educated eye, always with <HI REND="italics">bizarre</HI>
132.sgm:<P>Mrs. Hanson ( <HI REND="italics">ne&acute;e</HI>
132.sgm:, if you please, Lovelands) was more commonplace than her lord.  She was a comely woman, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Such was the pair who ruled in the old Silverado Hotel, among the windy trees, on the mountain shoulder over-looking the whole length of Napa Valley, as the man aloft looks down on the ship's deck.  There they kept house, with sundry horses and fowls, and a family of sons, Daniel Webster, and I think George Washington, among the number.  Nor did they want visitors.  An old gentleman, of singular stolidity, and called Breedlove--I think he had crossed the plains in the same caravan with Rufe--housed with them for awhile during our stay; and they had, besides, a permanent lodger, in the form of Mrs. Hanson's brother, Irvine Lovelands.  I spell Irvine by guess; for I could get no information on the subject, just as I could never find out, in spite of many inquiries, whether or not Rufe was a contraction for Rufus.  They were all cheerfully at sea about their names in that generation; and this is surely the more notable where the names are all so strange, and even the family names appear to be made up.  At one time at least, the ancestors of all these Alvins and Alvas, Loveinas, Lovelands, and Breedloves, must have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Our very first morning at Silverado, when we were full of business, patching up doors and windows, making beds and seats and getting our rough lodging into shape, Irvine and his sister made their appearance together, she for neighborliness and general curiosity; he because he was working for me, to my sorrow, cutting firewood at I forget how much a day.  The way that he set about cutting wood was characteristic.  We were at that moment patching up and unpacking in the kitchen.  Down he sat on one side, and down sat his sister on the other.  Both were chewing pine-tree gum, and he, to my annoyance, accompanied that simple pleasure with profuse expectoration.  She rattled away, talking up hill and down dale, laughing, tossing her head, showing her brilliant teeth.  He looked on in silence, now spitting heavily on the floor, now putting his head back and uttering a loud, discordant, joyous laugh.  He had a tangle of shock hair, the color of wool; his mouth was a grin; although as strong as a horse, he looked neither heavy nor yet adroit, only leggy, coltish, and in the road.  But it was plain he was in high spirits, thoroughly enjoying his visit, and he laughed frankly whenever we failed to accomplish what we were about.  This was scarcely helpful; it was even, to amateur carpenters, embarrassing; but it lasted until we knocked off work and began to get dinner.  Then Mrs. Hanson remembered she should have been gone an hour ago; and the pair retired, and the lady's laughter died away among the nutmegs down the path.  That was Irvine's first day's work in my employment--the devil take him!</P>
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132.sgm:<P>The next morning he returned and, as he was this time alone, he bestowed his conversation upon us with great liberality.  He prided himself on his intelligence; asked us if we knew the school-ma'am.  <HI REND="italics">He</HI>
132.sgm: didn't think much of her, any way.  He had tried her he had.  He had put a question to her.  If a tree a hundred feet high were to fall a foot a day, how long would it take to fall right down?  She had not been able to solve the problem.  "She don't know nothing," he opined.  He told us how a friend of his kept a school with a revolver, and chuckled mightily over that; his friend could teach school, he could.  All the time he kept chewing gum and spitting.  He would stand awhile looking down; and then he would toss back his shock of hair, and laugh hoarsely, and spit, and bring forward a new subject.  A man, he told us, who bore a grudge against him, had poisoned his dog.  "That was a low thing for a man to do now, wasn't it?  It wasn't like a man, that, nohow.  But I got even with him: I poisoned <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
132.sgm:<P>His self-esteem was, indeed, the one joint in his harness.  He could be got to work, and even kept at work, by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Yet the strangest part of the whole matter was perhaps this, that Irvine was as beautiful as a statue.  His features were, in themselves, perfect; it was only his cloudy, uncouth, and coarse expression that disfigured them.  So much strength residing in so spare a frame was proof sufficient of the accuracy of his shape.  He must have been built somewhat after the pattern of Jack Sheppard; but the famous house-breaker, we may be certain, was no lout.  It was by the extraordinary powers of his mind, no less than by the vigor of his body, that he broke his strong prison with such imperfect implements, turning the very obstacles to service.  Irvine, in the same case, would have sat down and spat, and grumbled curses.  He had the soul of a fat sheep, but, regarded as an artist's model, the exterior of a Greek god.  It was a cruel thought to persons less favored in their birth, that this creature, endowed--to use the language of theatres--with extraordinary "means," should so manage to misemploy them that he looked ugly and almost deformed.  It was only by an effort of abstraction, and after many days, that you discovered what he was.</P>
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132.sgm:<P>By playing on the oaf's conceit and standing closely over him, we got a path made round the corner of the dump to our door, so that we could come and go with decent ease; and he even enjoyed the work, for in that there were bowlders to be plucked up bodily, bushes to be uprooted, and other occasions for athletic display: but cutting wood was a different matter.  Anybody could cut wood; and, besides, my wife was tired of supervising him, and had other things to attend to.  And, in short, days went by, and Irvine came daily, and talked and lounged and spat; but the firewood remained intact as sleepers on the platform or growing trees upon the mountain-side.  Irvine, as a wood-cutter, we could tolerate; but Irvine as a friend of the family, at so much a day, was too bald an imposition, and at length, in the afternoon of the fourth or fifth day of our connection, I explained to him, as clearly as I could, the light in which I had grown to regard his presence.  I pointed out to him that I could not continue to give him a salary for spitting on the floor; and this expression, which came after a good many others, at last penetrated his obdurate wits.  He rose at once, and said if that was the way he was going to be spoken to, he reckoned he would quit.  And, no one interposing, he departed.</P>
132.sgm:<P>So far, so good.  But we had no firewood.  The next afternoon I strolled down to Rufe's and consulted him on the subject.  It was a very droll interview, in the large, bare north room of the Silverado Hotel, Mrs. Hanson's patchwork on a frame, and Rufe, and his wife, and I, and the oaf himself, all more or less embarrassed.  Rufe announced there was nobody in the neighborhood but Irvine who could do a day's work for anybody.  Irvine, there-upon, refused to have any more to do with my service; he "wouldn't work no more for a man as had spoke to him 's I had done."  I found myself on the point of the last humiliation--driven to beseech the creature whom I had just dismissed with insult; but I took the high hand in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>The leading spirit of the family was, I am inclined to fancy, Mrs. Hanson.  Her social brilliancy somewhat dazzled the others, and she had more of the small change of sense.  It was she who faced Kelmar, for instance; and perhaps, if she had been alone, Kelmar would have had no rule within her doors.  Rufe, to be sure, had a fine, sober, open-air attitude of mind, seeing the world without exaggeration--perhaps, we may even say, without enough; for he lacked, along with the others, that commercial idealism which puts so high a value on time and money.  Sanity itself is a kind of convention.  Perhaps Rufe was wrong; but, looking on life plainly, he was unable to perceive that croquet or poker were in any way less important than, for instance, mending his wagon.  Even his own profession, hunting, was dear to him mainly as a sort of play; even that he would have neglected, had it not appealed to his imagination.  His hunting-suit, for instance, had cost I should be afraid to say how many bucks--the currency in which he paid his way: it was all befringed after the Indian fashion, and it was dear to his heart.  The pictorial side of his daily business was never forgotten.  He was even anxious to stand for his picture in those buckskin hunting clothes; and I remember how he once warmed into enthusiasm, his dark-blue eyes growing perceptibly larger, as he planned the composition in which he should appear, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>There was no trace in Irvine of this woodland poetry.  He did not care for hunting, nor yet for buckskin suits.  He had never observed scenery.  The world, as it appeared to him, was almost obliterated by his own great grinning figure in the foreground: Caliban Malvolio.  And it seems to me as if, in the persons of these brothers-in-law, we had the two sides of rusticity fairly well represented: the hunter living really in nature; the clod-hopper living merely out of society: the one bent up in every corporal agent to capacity in one pursuit, doing at least one thing keenly and thoughtfully, and thoroughly alive to all that touches it; the other in the inert and bestial state, walking in a faint dream, and taking so dim an impression of the myriad sides of life that he is truly conscious of nothing but himself.  It is only in the fastnesses of nature, forests, mountains, and the back of man's beyond, that a creature endowed with five senses can grow up into the perfection of this crass and earthy vanity.  In towns or the busier country sides, he is roughly reminded of other men's existence; and if he learns no more, he learns at least to fear contempt.  But Irvine had come scathless through life, conscious only of himself, of his great strength and intelligence; and in the silence of the universe, to which he did not listen, dwelling with delight on the sound of his own thoughts.</P>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE SEA FOGS.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>A CHANGE in the color of the light usually called me in the morning.  By a certain hour, the long, vertical chinks in our western gable, where the boards had shrunk and separated, flashed suddenly into my eyes as stripes of dazzling blue, at once so dark and splendid that I used to marvel how the qualities could be combined.  At an earlier hour the heavens in that quarter were still quietly colored, but the shoulder of the mountain which shuts in the canyon already glowed with sunlight in a wonderful compound of gold and rose and green; and this too would kindle, although more mildly and with rainbow tints, the fissures of our crazy gable.  If I were sleeping heavily, it was the bold blue that struck me awake; if more lightly, then I would come to myself in that earlier and fairer light.</P>
132.sgm:<P>One Sunday morning, about five, the first brightness called me.  I rose and turned to the east, not for my devotions, but for air.  The night had been very still.  The little private gale that blew every evening in our canyon, for ten minutes or perhaps a quarter of an hour, had swiftly blown itself out; in the hours that followed not a sign of wind had shaken the tree-tops; and our barrack, for all its breaches, was less fresh that morning than of wont.  But I had no sooner reached the window than I forgot all else in the sight that met my eyes, and I made but two bounds into my clothes, and down the crazy plank to the platform.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The sun was still concealed below the opposite hill-tops, though it was shining already, not twenty feet above my head, on our own mountain slope.  But the scene, beyond a few near features, was entirely changed.  Napa Valley was gone; gone were all the lower slopes and woody foot-hills of the range; and in their place, not a thousand feet, below me, rolled a great level ocean.  It was as though I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>As I continued to sit upon the dump, I began to observe that this sea was not so level as at first sight it appeared to be.  Away in the extreme south, a little hill of fog arose against the sky above the general surface, and as it had already caught the sun, it shone on the horizon like the top-sails of some giant ship.  There were huge waves, stationary, as it seemed, like waves in a frozen sea; and yet, as I looked again, I was not sure but they were moving after all, with a slow and august advance.  And while I was yet doubting, a promontory of the hills some four or five miles away, conspicuous by a bouquet of tall pines, was in a single instant overtaken and swallowed up.  It reappeared in a little, with its pines, but this time as an islet, and only to be swallowed up once more and then for good.  This set me looking nearer, and I saw that in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>The sun had now gotten much higher, and through all the gaps of the hills it cast long bars of gold across that white ocean.  An eagle, or some other very great bird of the mountain, came wheeling over the nearer pine-tops, and hung, poised and something sideways, as if to look abroad on that unwonted desolation, spying, perhaps with terror, for the eyries of her comrades.  Then, with a long cry, she disappeared again toward Lake County and the clearer air.  At length it seemed to me as if the flood were beginning to subside.  The old landmarks, by whose disappearance I had measured its advance--here a crag, there a brave pine-tree--now began, in the inverse order, to make their reappearance into daylight.  I judged all danger of the fog was over.  This was not Noah's flood; it was but a morning spring, and would now drift out seaward whence it came.  So, mightily relieved, and a good deal exhilarated by the sight, I went into the house to light the fire.</P>
132.sgm:<P>I suppose it was nearly seven when I once more mounted the platform to look abroad.  The fog ocean had swelled up enormously since I last saw it; and a few hundred feet below me, in the deep gap where the Toll House stands and the road runs through into Lake County, it had already topped the slope, and was pouring over and down the other side like driving smoke.  The wind had climbed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Half an hour later the fog had surmounted all the ridge on the opposite side of the gap, though a shoulder of the mountain still warded it out of our canyon.  Napa Valley and its bounding hills were now utterly blotted out.  The fog, sunny white in the sunshine, was pouring over into Lake County in a huge, ragged cataract, tossing tree-tops appearing and disappearing in the spray.  The air struck with a little chill, and set me coughing.  It smelled strong of the fog, like the smell of a washing-house, but with a shrewd tang of the sea salt.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Has it not been for two things--the sheltering spur which answered as a dyke, and the great valley on the other side which rapidly ingulfed whatever mounted--our own little platform in the canyon must have been already buried a hundred feet in salt and poisonous air.  As it was, the interest of the scene entirely occupied our minds.  We were set just out of the wind, and but just above the fog; we could listen to the voice of the one as to the music on the stage; we could plunge our eyes down into the other, as into some flowing stream from over the parapet of a bridge; thus we looked on upon a strange, impetuous, silent, shifting exhibition of the powers of nature, and saw the familiar landscape changing from moment to moment like figures in a dream.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The imagination loves to trifle with what is not.  Had this been indeed the deluge, I should have felt more strongly, but the emotion would have been similar in kind.  I played with the idea, as the child flees in delightful terror from the creation of his fancy.  The look of the thing helped me.  And when at last I began to flee up the mountain, it was indeed partly to escape from the raw air that kept me coughing, but it was also part in play.</P>
132.sgm:<P>As I ascended the mountain-side, I came once more to overlook the upper surface of the fog; but it wore a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Through the Toll House Gap and over the near ridges on the other side, the deluge was immense.  A spray of thin vapor was thrown high above it, rising and falling, and blown into fantastic shapes.  The speed of its course was like a mountain torrent.  Here and there a few tree-tops were discovered, and then whelmed again; and for one second the bough of a dead pine beckoned out of the spray like the arm of a drowning man.  But still the imagination was dissatisfied, still the ear waited for something more.  Had this indeed been water (as it seemed so, to the eye), with what a plunge of reverberating thunder would it have rolled upon its course, disembowelling mountains and deracinating pines!  And yet water it was, and sea-water at that--true Pacific billows, only somewhat rarefied rolling in mid-air among the hill-tops.</P>
132.sgm:<P>I climbed still higher, among the red rattling gravel and dwarf underwood of Mount Saint Helena, until I could look right down upon Silverado, and admire the favored nook in which it lay.  The sunny plain of fog, several hundred feet higher, behind the protecting spur--a gigantic accumulation of cottony vapor--threatened, with every second, to blow over and submerge our homestead; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>This was the great Russian campaign for that season.  Now and then, in the early morning, a little white lakelet of fog would be seen far down in Napa Valley; but the heights were not again assailed, nor was the surrounding world again shut off from Silverado.</P>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE TOLL HOUSE.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>THE Toll House, standing alone by the way-side under nodding pines, with its streamlet and water-tank; its back-woods, toll-bar, and well-trodden croquet ground; the hostler standing by the stable door, chewing a straw; a glimpse of the Chinese cook in the back parts; and Mr. Hoddy in the bar, gravely alert and serviceable, and equally anxious to lend or borrow books; dozed all day in the dusty sunshine, more than half asleep.  There were no neighbors, except the Hansons up the hill.  The traffic on the road was infinitesimal; only at rare intervals, a couple in a wagon, or a dusty farmer on a springboard, toiling over "the grade" to the metropolitan hamlet, Calistoga; and, at the fixed hours, the passage of the stages.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The nearest building was the school-house, down the road; and the school-ma'am boarded at the Toll House, walking thence in the morning to the little brown shanty, where she taught the young ones of the district, and returning thither pretty weary in the afternoon.  She had chosen this outlying situation, I understood, for her health.  Mr. Corwen was consumptive; so was Rufe; so was Mr. Jenings, the engineer.  In short, the place was a kind of small Davos; consumptive folk consorting on the hill-top in the most unbroken idleness.  Jennings never did anything that I could see, except now and then to fish, and generally to sit about in the bar and the veranda, waiting for something to happen.  Corwen and Rufe did as little as possible; and if the school-ma'am, poor lady, had to work pretty hard all morning, she subsided when it was over into much the same dazed beatitude as all the rest.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Her special corner was the parlor--a very genteel room, with Bible prints, a crayon portrait of Mrs. Corwen in the height of fashion, a few years ago; another of her son (Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>The school-ma'am had friends to stay with her, other school-ma'ams enjoying their holidays, quite a bevy of damsels.  They seemed never to go out, or not beyond the veranda, but sat close in the little parlor, quietly talking or listening to the wind among the trees.  Sleep dwelt in the Toll-House like a fixture; summer sleep, shallow, soft, and dreamless.  A cuckoo-clock, a great rarity in such a place, hooted at intervals about the echoing house; and Mr. Jennings would open his eyes for a moment in the bar, and turn the leaf of a newspaper, and the resting school-ma'ams in the parlor would be recalled to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>A little before stage time that castle of indolence awoke.  The hostler threw his straw away and set to his preparations.  Mr. Jennings rubbed his eyes; happy Mr. Jennings, the something he had been waiting for all day about to happen at last!  The boarders gathered in the veranda, silently giving ear, and gazing down the road with shaded eyes.  As yet there was no sign for the senses, not a sound, not a tremor of the mountain road.  The birds, to whom the secret of the hooting cuckoo is unknown, must have set down to instinct this premonitory bustle.  And then the first of the two stages swooped upon the Toll House with a roar and in a cloud of dust; and the shock had not yet time to subside before the second was abreast of it.  Huge concerns they were, well-horsed and loaded, the men in their shirt-sleeves, the women swathed in veils, the long whip cracking like a pistol; and as they charged upon that slumbering hostelry, each shepherding a dust storm, the dead place blossomed into life and talk and clatter.  This the Toll House, with its city throng, its jostling shoulders, its infinity of instant business in the bar?  The mind would not receive it!  The heartfelt bustle of that hour is hardly credible; the thrill of the great shower of letters from the post-bag, the childish hope and interest with which one gazed in all these strangers' eyes.  They paused there but to pass: the blue-clad Chinese boy, the San Francisco magnate, the mystery in the dust coat, the secret memoirs in tweed, the goggling, well-shod lady with her troop of girls; they did but flash and go; they were hull-down for us behind life's ocean, and we but hailed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>And presently the city tide was at its flood and began to ebb.  Life runs in Piccadilly Circus, say, from nine to one, and then, there also, ebbs into the small hours of the echoing policeman and the lamps and stars.  But the Toll House is far up the stream, and near its rural springs; the bubble of the tide but touches it.  Before you had yet grasped your pleasure, the horses were put to, the loud whips volleyed, and the tide was gone.  North and south had the two stages vanished, the towering dust subsided in the woods; but there was still an interval before the flush had fallen on your cheeks, before the ear became once more contented with the silence, as the seven sleepers of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>As I recall the place--the green dell below; the spires of pines; the sun-warm, scented air; the gray, gabled inn, with its faint stirrings of life amid the slumber of the mountains--I slowly awake to a sense of admiration, gratitude, and almost love.  A fine place, after all, for a wasted life to doze away in--the cuckoo-clock hooting of its far home country; the croquet mallets, eloquent of English lawn; the stages daily bringing news of the turbulent world away below there; and perhaps once in the summer a salt fog pouring overhead with its tale of the Pacific.</P>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A STARRY DRIVE.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>In our rule at Silverado, there was a melancholy interregnum.  The queen and the crown prince with one accord fell sick; and, as I was sick to begin with, our lone position on Mount Saint Helena was no longer tenable, and we had to hurry back to Calistoga and a cottage on the green.  By that time we had begun to realize the difficulties of our position.  We had found what an amount of labor it cost to support life in our red canyon; it was the dearest desire of our hearts to get a Chinese boy to go along with us when we returned.  We could have given him a whole house to himself, self-contained, as they say in the advertisements; and on the money question we were prepared to go far.  Kong Sam Kee, the Calistoga washerman, was intrusted with the affair; and from day to day it languished on, with protestations on our part and mellifluous excuses on the part of Kong Sam Kee.</P>
132.sgm:<P>At length, about half past eight of our last evening, with the wagon ready harnessed to convey us up the grade, the washerman, with a somewhat sneering air, produced the boy.  He was a handsome, gentlemanly lad, attired in rich dark blue, and shod with snowy white; but alas! he had heard rumors of Silverado.  He knew it for a lone place on the mountain-side, with no friendly wash-house near by, where he might smoke a pipe of opium o' nights with other Chinese boys, and lose his little earnings at the game of tan; and he first backed out for more money; and then, when that demand was satisfied, refused to come point-blank.  He was wedded to his wash-houses; he had no taste for the rural life; and we must go to our mountain servantless.  It must have been near half an hour before we reached that conclusion, standing in the midst of Calistoga high street under the stars, and the Chinese boy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>We were not, however, to return alone; for we brought with us Joe Strong, the painter, a most good-natured comrade and a capital hand at an omelet.  I do not know in which capacity he was most valued--as a cook or a companion; and he did excellently well in both.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The Kong Sam Kee negotiation had delayed us unduly; it must have been half past nine before we left Calistoga, and night came fully ere we struck the bottom of the grade.  I have never seen such a night.  It seemed to throw calumny in the teeth of all the painters that ever dabbled in starlight.  The sky itself was of a ruddy, powerful, nameless, changing color, dark and glossy like a serpent's back.  The stars, by innumerable millions, stuck boldly forth like lamps.  The milky way was bright, like a moonlighted cloud; half heaven seemed milky way.  The greater luminaries shone each more clearly than a winter's moon.  Their light was dyed in every sort of color--red, like fire; blue, like steel; green, like the tracks of sunset; and so sharply did each stand forth in its own lustre that there was no appearance of that flat, star-spangled arch we know so well in pictures, but all the hollow of heaven was one chaos of contesting luminaries--a hurly burly of stars.  Against this the hills and rugged tree-tops stood out redly dark.</P>
132.sgm:<P>As we continued to advance, the lesser lights and milky ways first grew pale, and then vanished; the countless hosts of heaven dwindled in number by successive millions; those that still shone had tempered their exceeding brightness and fallen back into their customary wistful distance, and the sky declined from its first bewildering splendor into the appearance of a common night.  Slowly this change proceeded, and still there was no sign of any cause.  Then a whiteness like mist was thrown over the spurs of the mountain.  Yet awhile, and, as we turned a corner, a great leap of silver light and net of forest shadows fell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>"Where are ye when the moon appears?" as the old poet sung, half taunting to the stars, bent upon a courtly purpose.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"As the sunlight round the dim earth's moonlight tower of shadow pours,<LB>Streaming past the dim, wide portals,<LB>Viewless to the eyes of mortals,<LB>Till it floods the moon's pale islet or the morning's golden shores."</HI>
132.sgm:<P>So sings Mr. Trowbridge, with a noble inspiration.  And so had the sunlight flooded that pale islet of the moon, and her lighted face put out, one after another, that galaxy of stars.  The wonder of the drive was over; but, by some nice conjunction of clearness in the air and fit shadow in the valley where we travelled, we had seen for a little while that brave display of the midnight heavens.  It was gone, but it had been; nor shall I ever again behold the stars with the same mind.  He who has seen the sea commoved with a great hurricane thinks of it very differently from him who had seen it only in a calm.  And the difference between a calm and a hurricane is not greatly more striking than that between the ordinary face of night and the splendor that shone upon us in that drive.  Two in our wagon knew night as she shines upon the tropics, but even that bore no comparison.  The nameless color of the sky, the hues of the star-fire, and the incredible projection of the stars themselves, starting from their orbits, so that the eye seemed to distinguish their positions in the hollow of space--these were things that we had never seen before and shall never see again.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, in this altered night, we proceeded on our way among the scents and silence of the forest, reached the top of the grade, wound up by Hanson's, and came at last to a stand under the flying gargoyle of the chute.  Sam, who had been lying back, fast asleep, with the moon on his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>The moon shone in at the eastern doors and windows, and over the lumber on the platform.  The one tall pine beside the ledge was steeped in silver.  Away up the canyon, a wildcat welcomed us with three discordant squalls.  But once we had lighted a candle, and began to review our improvements, homely in either sense, and count our stores, it was wonderful what a feeling of possession and permanence grew up in the hearts of the lords of Silverado.  A bed had still to be made up for Strong, and the morning's water to be fetched, with clinking pail; and as we sat about these household duties, and showed off our wealth and conveniences before the stranger, and had a glass of wine, I think, in honor of our return, and trooped at length one after another up the flying bridge of plank, and lay down to sleep in our shattered, moon-pierced barrack, we were among the happiest sovereigns in the world, and certainly ruled over the most contented people.  Yet, in our absence, the palace had been sacked.  Wildcats, so the Hansons said, had broken in and carried off a side of bacon, a hatchet, and two knives.</P>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EPISODES IN THE STORY OF A MINE.</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>No one could live at Silverado and not be curious about the story of the mine.  We were surrounded by so many evidences of expense and toil, we lived so entirely in the wreck of that great enterprise, like mites in the ruins of a cheese, that the idea of the old din and bustle haunted our repose.  Our own house, the forge, the dump, the chutes, the rails, the windlass, the mass of broken plant; the two tunnels, one far below in the green dell, the other on the platform where we kept our wine; the deep shaft, with the sun-glints and the water-drops; above all, the ledge, the great gaping slice out of the mountain shoulder, propped apart by wooden wedges, on whose immediate margin, high above our heads, the one tall pine precariously nodded--these stood for its greatness; while the dog-hutch, bootjacks, old boots, old tavern bills, and the very beds that we inherited from by-gone miners, put in human touches and realized for us the story of the past.</P>
132.sgm:<P>I have sat on an old sleeper, under the thick madronas near the forge, with just a look over the dump on the green world below, and seen the sun lying broad among the wreck, and heard the silence broken only by the tinkling water in the shaft, or a stir of the royal family about the battered palace, and my mind has gone back to the epoch of the Stanleys and the Chapmans, with a grand <HI REND="italics">tutti</HI>
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132.sgm:<P>But Silverado itself, although now fallen in its turn into decay, was once but a mushroom, and had succeeded to other mines and other flitting cities.  Twenty years ago, away down the glen on the Lake County side there was a place, Jonestown by name, with two thousand inhabitants dwelling under canvas, and one roofed house for the sale of whiskey.  Round on the western side of Mount Saint Helena there was, at the same date, a second large encampment, its name, if it ever had one, lost for me.  Both of these have perished, leaving not a stick and scarce a memory behind them.  Tide after tide of hopeful miners have thus flowed and ebbed about the mountain, coming and going, now by solitary prospectors, now with a rush.  Last in order of time came Silverado, reared the big mill in the valley, founded the town which is now represented, monumentally, by Hanson's, pierced all these slaps and shafts and tunnels, and in turn declined and died away.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Our noisy years seem moments in the wake<LB>Of the eternal silence."</HI>
132.sgm:<P>As to the success of Silverado in its time of being, two reports were current.  According to the first, six hundred thousand dollars were taken out of that great upright seam, that still hung open above us on crazy wedges.  Then the ledge pinched out, and there followed, in quest of the remainder, a great drifting and tunnelling in all directions, and a great consequent effusion of dollars, until, all parties being sick of the expense, the mine was deserted and the town decamped.  According to the second version, told me with much secrecy of manner, the whole affair--mine, mill, and town--were parts of one majestic swindle.  There had never come any silver out of any portion of the mine; there was no silver to come.  At midnight trains of pack-horses might have been observed winding by devious tracks about the shoulder of the mountain.  They came from far away, from Amador or Placer, laden with silver in "old cigar-boxes."  They discharged their load at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>I give these two versions as I got them.  But I place little reliance on either, my belief in history having been greatly shaken.  For it chanced that I had came to dwell in Silverado at a critical hour; great events in its history were about to happen--did happen, as I am led to believe; nay, and it will be seen that I played a part in that revolution myself.  And yet from first I never had a glimmer of an idea what was going on; and even now, after full reflection, profess myself at sea.  That there was some obscure intrigue of the cigar-box order, and that I, in the character of a wooden puppet, set pen to paper in the interest of somebody--so much, and no more--is certain.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Silverado, then under my immediate sway, belonged to one whom I will call a Mr. Ronalds.  I only knew him through the extraordinarily distorting medium of local gossip, now as a momentous jobber; now as a dupe to point an adage; and again, and much more probably, as an ordinary Christian gentleman like you or me, who had opened a mine and worked it for awhile with better and worse fortune.  So, through a defective window-pane, you may see the passer-by shoot up into a hunch-backed giant or dwindle into a pot-bellied dwarf.</P>
132.sgm:<P>To Ronalds, at least, the mine belonged; but the notice by which he held it would run out upon the 30th of June--or rather, as I suppose, it had run out already, and the month of grace would expire upon that day, after which any American citizen might post a notice of his own and make Silverado his.  This, with a sort of quiet slyness, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Of course I had no objection.  But I was filled with wonder.  If all he wanted was the wood and iron, what, in the name of fortune, was to prevent him taking them?  "His right there was none to dispute."  He might lay hands on all to-morrow, as the wildcats had laid hands upon our knives and hatchet.  Besides, was this mass of heavy mining plant worth transportation?  If it was, why had not the righful owners carted it away?  If it was, would they not preserve their title to these movables, even after they had lost their title to the mine?  And if it were not, what the better was Rufe?  Nothing would grow at Silverado; there was even no wood to cut; beyond a sense of property, there was nothing to be gained.  Lastly, was it at all credible that Ronalds would forget what Rufe remembered?  The days of grace were not yet over; any fine morning he might appear, paper in hand, and enter for another year on his inheritance.  However, it was none of my business; all seemed legal; Rufe or Ronalds, all was one to me.</P>
132.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 27th, Mrs. Hanson appeared with the milk as usual, in her sun-bonnet.  The time would be out on Tuesday, she reminded us, and bade me be in readiness to play my part, though I had no idea what it was to be.  And suppose Ronalds came? we asked.  She received the idea with derision, laughing aloud with all her fine teeth.  He could not find the mine to save his life, it appeared, without Rufe to guide him.  Last year, when he came, they heard him "up and down the road a hollerin' and a raisin' Cain."  And at last he had to come to the Hansons in despair, and bid Rufe "Jump into your pants and shoes, and show me where this old mine is, any way!"  Seeing that Ronalds had laid out so much money <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>That same evening, supper comfortably over, Joe Strong busy at work on a drawing of the dump and the opposite hills, we were all out on the platform together, sitting there, under the tented heavens, with the same sense of privacy as if we had been cabined in a parlor, when the sound of brisk footsteps came mounting up the path.  We pricked our ears at this, for the tread seemed lighter and firmer than was usual with our country neighbors.  And presently, sure enough, two town gentlemen, with cigars and kid gloves, came debouching past the house.  They looked in that place like a blasphemy.</P>
132.sgm:<P>"Good evening," they said.  For none of us had stirred; we all sat stiff with wonder.</P>
132.sgm:<P>"Good evening," I returned; and then to put them at their ease, "A stiff climb," I added.</P>
132.sgm:<P>"Yes," replied the leader; "but we have to thank you for this path."</P>
132.sgm:<P>I did not like the man's tone.  None of us liked it.  He did not seem embarrassed by the meeting, but threw us his remarks like favors, and strode magisterially by us toward the shaft and tunnel.</P>
132.sgm:<P>Presently we heard his voice raised to his companion.  "We drifted every sort of way, but couldn't strike the ledge."  Then again: "It pinched out here."  And once more: "Every miner that ever worked upon it says there's bound to be a ledge somewhere."</P>
132.sgm:<P>These were the snatches of his talk that reached us, and they had a damning significance.  We, the lords of Silverado, had come face to face with our superior.  It is the worst of all quaint and of all cheap ways of life that they bring us at last to the pinch of some humiliation.  I liked well enough to be a squatter when there was none but Hanson by; before Ronalds, I will own, I somewhat quailed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Throughout this interview my conscience was a good deal exercised; and I was moved to throw myself on my knees and own the intended treachery.  But then I had Hanson to consider.  I was in much the same position as Old Rowley, that royal humorist, whom "the rogue had taken into his confidence."  And again, here was Ronalds on the same spot.  He must know the day of the month as well as Hanson and I.  If a broad hint were necessary, he had the broadest in the world.  For a large board had been nailed by the crown prince on the very front of our house, between the door and window, painted in cinnabar--the pigment of the country--with doggerel rhymes and contumelious pictures, and announcing, in terms unnecessarily figurative, that the trick was already played, the claim already jumped, and Master Sam the legitimate successor of Mr. Ronalds.  But no, nothing could save that man; <HI REND="italics">quem deus vult perdere, prius demental</HI>
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132.sgm:<P>Late at night, by Silverado reckoning, and after we were all abed, Mrs. Hanson returned to give us the newest of her news.  It was like a scene in a ship's steerage: all of us abed in our different tiers, the single candle struggling with the darkness, and this plump, handsome woman, seated on an upturned valise beside the bunks, talking and showing her fine teeth, and laughing till the rafters rang.  Any ship, to be sure, with a hundredth part as many holes in it as our barracks, must long ago have gone to her last port.  Up to that time I had always imagined Mrs. Hanson's loquacity to be mere incontinence, that she said what was upper-most for the pleasure of speaking, and laughed and laughed again as a kind of musical accompaniment.  But I now found there was an art in it.  I found it less communicative than silence itself.  I wished to know why Ronalds had come; how he had found his way without Rufe; and why, being on the spot, he had not refreshed his title.  She talked interminably on, but her replies were never answers.  She fled under a cloud of words; and when I had made sure that she was purposely eluding me, I dropped the subject in my turn, and let her rattle where she would.</P>
132.sgm:<P>She had come to tell us that, instead of waiting for Tuesday, the claim was to be jumped on the morrow.  How?  If the time were not out, it was impossible.  Why?  If Ronalds had come and gone and done nothing there was the less cause for hurry.  But again I could reach no satisfaction.  The claim was to be jumped next morning, that was all that she would condescend upon.</P>
132.sgm:<P>And yet it was not jumped the next morning, nor yet the next, and a whole week had come and gone before we heard more of this exploit.  That day week, however, a day of great heat, Hanson, with a little roll of paper in his hand, and the eternal pipe alight; Breedlove, his large, dull friend to act, I suppose, as witness; Mrs. Hanson, in her Sunday best; and all the children, from the oldest to the youngest, arrived in a procession, tailing one behind another up the path.  Caliban was absent, but he had been chary of his friendly visits since the row; and, with that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>Not a word occurred about the business of the day.  Once, twice, and thrice I tried to slide the subject in, but was discouraged by the stoic apathy of Rufe, and beaten down before the pouring verbiage of his wife.  There is nothing of the Indian brave about me, and I began to grill with impatience.  At last, like a highway robber, I cornered Hanson, and bade him stand and deliver his business.  Thereupon he gravely rose, as though to hint that this was not a proper place, nor the subject one suitable for squaws, and I, following his example, led him up the plank into our barrack.  There he bestowed himself on a box, and unrolled his papers with fastidious deliberation.  There were two sheets of note-paper, and an old mining notice, dated May 30th, 1879, part print, part manuscript, and the latter much obliterated by the rains.  It was by this identical piece of paper that the mine had been held last year.  For thirteen months it had endured the weather and the change of seasons on a cairn behind the shoulder of the canyon; and it was now my business, spreading it before me on the table, and sitting on a valise, to copy its terms, with some necessary changes, twice over on the two sheets of note paper.  One was then to be placed on the same cairn--a "mound of rocks" the notice put it; and the other to be lodged for registration.</P>
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132.sgm:<P>Rufe watched me, silently smoking, till I came to the place for the locator's name at the end of the first copy; and when I proposed that he should sign I thought I saw a scare in his eyes.  "I don't think that'll be necessary," he said, slowly; "just you write it down."  Perhaps this mighty hunter, who was the most active member of the local school board, could not write.  There would be nothing strange in that.  The constable of Calistoga is, and has been for years, a bed-ridden man, and, if I remember rightly, blind.  He had more need of the emoluments than another, it was explained; and it was easy for him to "depytize," with a strong accent on the last.  So friendly and so free are popular institutions.</P>
132.sgm:<P>When I had done my scrivening Hanson strolled out, and addressed Breedlove: "Will you step up here a bit?" and after they had disappeared a little while into the chaparral and madrona thicket they came back again, minus a notice, and the deed was done.  The claim was jumped; a tract of mountain-side fifteen hundred feet long by six hundred wide, with all the earth's precious bowels, had passed from Ronalds to Hanson, and, in the passage, changed its name from the "Mammoth" to the "Calistoga."  I had tried to get Rufe to call it after his wife, after himself, and after Garfield, the Republican Presidential candidate of the hour--since then elected, and alas! dead--but all was in vain.  The claim had once been called the Calistoga before, and he seemed to feel safety in returning to that.</P>
132.sgm:<P>And so the history of that mine became once more plunged in darkness, lighted only by some monster pyrotechnical displays of gossip.  And perhaps the most curious feature of the whole matter is this: that we should have dwelt in this quiet corner of the mountains, with not a dozen neighbors, and yet struggled all the while, like desperate swimmers, in this sea of falsities and contradictions.  Wherever a man is there will be a lie.</P>
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132.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TOILS AND PLEASURES</HEAD>
132.sgm:<P>I MUST try to convey some notion of our life, of how the days passed and what pleasure we took in them, of what there was to do and how we set about doing it, in our mountain hermitage.  The house, after we had repaired the worst of the damages, and filled in some of the doors and windows with white cotton cloth, became a healthy and a pleasant dwelling-place, always airy and dry, and haunted by the out-door perfumes of the glen.  Within it had the look of habitation, the human look.  You had only to go into the third room, which we did not use, and see its stones, its sifting earth, its tumbled litter, and then return to our lodging, with the beds made, the plates on the rack, the pail of bright water behind the door, the stove crackling in a corner, and perhaps the table roughly laid against a meal, and man's order, the little clean spots that he creates to dwell in, were at once contrasted with the rich passivity of nature.  And yet our house was everywhere so wrecked and shattered, the air came and went so freely, the sun found so many port-holes, the golden outdoor glow shone in so many open chinks, that we enjoyed, at the same time, some of the comforts of a roof and much of the gayety and brightness of <HI REND="italics">al-fresco</HI>
132.sgm:<P>Trustful in this fine weather, we kept the house for kitchen and bedroom, and used the platform as our summer parlor.  The sense of privacy, as I have said already, was complete.  We could look over the dump on miles of forest and rough hill-top; our eyes commanded some of Napa Valley, where the train ran, and the little country townships sat so close together along the line of the rail.  But here there was no man to intrude.  None but the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>My work, it is true, was over early in the morning.  I rose before any one else, lighted the stove, put on the water to boil, and strolled forth upon the platform to wait till it was ready.  Silverado would then be still in shadow, the sun shining on the mountain higher up.  A clean smell of trees, a smell of the earth at morning, hung in the air.  Regularly, every day, there was a single bird, not singing, but awkwardly chirruping among the green madronas, and the sound was cheerful, natural, and stirring.  It did not hold the attention, nor interrupt the thread of meditation, like a blackbird or a nightingale; it was mere woodland prattle, of which the mind was conscious like a perfume.  The freshness of these morning seasons remained with me far on into the day.</P>
132.sgm:<P>As soon as the kettle boiled I made porridge and coffee; and that, beyond the liberal drawing of water, and the preparation of kindling, which it would be hyperbolical to call the hewing of wood, ended my domestic duties for the day.  Thenceforth my wife labored single-handed in the palace, and I lay, or wandered on the platform at my own sweet will.  The little corner near the forge, where we found a refuge under the madronas from the unsparing early sun is indeed connected in my mind with some nightmare encounters over Euclid and the Latin grammar.  These were known as Sam's lessons.  He was supposed to be the victim and the sufferer; but here there must have been some misconception, for whereas I generally retired <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>To walk at all was a laborious business; the foot sunk and slid, the boots were cut to pieces, among sharp, uneven rolling stones.  When we crossed the platform in any direction it was usual to lay a course, following as much as possible the line of wagon rails.  Thus, if water were to be drawn, the water-carrier left the house along some tilting planks that we had laid down, and not laid down very well.  These carried him to that great high-road, the railway, and the railway served him as far as to the head of the shaft.  But from thence to the spring and back again he made the best of his unaided way, staggering among the stones, and wading in low growth of the calcanthus, where the rattlesnakes lay hissing at his passage.  Yet I liked to draw water.  It was pleasant to dip the gray metal pail into the clean, colorless, cool water; pleasant to carry it back, with the water lipping at the edge, and a broken sunbeam quivered in the midst.</P>
132.sgm:<P>But the extreme roughness of the walking confined us in common practice to the platform, and indeed to those parts of it that were most easily accessible to the line of rails.  The rails came straight forward from the shaft, here and there overgrown with little green bushes, but still entire, and still carrying a truck, which it was Sam's delight to trundle to and fro by the hour with various ladings.  About midway down the platform the railroad trended to the right, leaving our house and coasting along the far side within a few yards of the madronas and the forge, and not far off the latter ended in a sort of platform on the edge of the dump.  There, in old days, the trucks were tipped, and their load sent thundering down the chute.  There, besides, was the only spot where we could approach the margin of the dump.  Anywhere else you took your life in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>I have already compared the dump to a rampart, built certainly by some rude people, and for prehistoric wars.  It was likewise a frontier.  All below was green and woodland, the tall pines soaring one above another, each with a firm outline and full spread of bough.  All above was arid, rocky and bald.  The great spout of broken mineral that had dammed the canyon up was a creature of man's handiwork, its material dug out with a pick and powder, and spread by the service of the trucks.  But nature herself, in that upper district, seemed to have had an eye to nothing besides mining; and even the natural hill-side was all sliding gravel and precarious bowlder.  Close at the margin of the well leaves would decay to skeletons and mummies, which at length some stronger gust would carry clear of the canyon and scatter in the adjacent woods.  Even moisture and decaying vegetable matter could not, with all nature's alchemy, concoct enough soil to nourish a few poor grasses.  It is the same, they say, in the neighborhood of all silver mines; the nature of that precious rock being stubborn with quartz and poisonous with cinnabar.  Both were plenty in our Silverado.  The stones sparkled white in the sunshine with quartz; they were all stained red with cinnabar.  Here, doubtless, came the Indians of yore to paint their faces for the war-path, and cinnabar, if I remember rightly, was one of the few articles of Indian commerce.  Now, Sam had it in his undisturbed possession, to pound down and slake and paint his rude designs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:with.  But to me it had always a fine flavor of poetry, compounded out of Indian story and Hawthornden's allusion:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Desire, alas! desire a Zeuxis new,<LB>From Indies borrowing gold, from Eastern skies<LB>Most bright cinoper..."</HI>
132.sgm:<P>Yet this is but half the picture; our Silverado platform has another side to it.  Though there was no soil, and scarce a blade of grass, yet out of these tumbled gravelheaps and broken bowlders a flower garden bloomed as at home in a conservatory.  Calcanthus crept, like a hearty weed, all over our rough parlor, choking the railway and pushing forth its rusty aromatic cones from between two blocks of shattered mineral.  Azaleas made a big snow-bed just above the well.  The shoulder of the hill waved white with Mediterranean heath.  In the crannies of the ledge and about the spurs of the tall pine, a red flowering stone-plant hung in clusters.  Even the low, thorny chaparral was thick with pea-like blossoms.  Close at the foot of our path nutmegs prospered, delightful to the sight and smell.  At sunrise, and again late at night, the scent of the sweet bay-trees filled the canyon, and the down-blowing night wind must have borne it hundreds of feet into the outer air.</P>
132.sgm:<P>All this vegetation, to be sure, was stunted.  The madrona was here no bigger than the manzanita; the bay was but a stripling shrub; the very pines, with four or five exceptions, in all our upper canyon, were not so tall as myself, or but a little taller, and the most of them came lower than my waist.  For a prosperous forest tree we must look below, where the glen was crowded with green spires.  But for flowers and ravishing perfume, we had none to envy; our heap of road-metal was thick with bloom, like a hawthorn in the front of June; our red, baking angle in the mountain, a laboratory of poignant scents.  It was an endless wonder to my mind, as I dreamed about the platform, following the progress of the shadows, where the madrona <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Nor was it only vegetable life that prospered.  We had, indeed, few birds, and none that had much of a voice or anything worthy to be called a song.  My morning comrade had a thin chirp, unmusical and monotonous, but friendly and pleasant to hear.  He had but one rival, a fellow with an ostentatious cry of near an octave descending, not one note of which properly followed another.  This is the only bird I ever knew with a wrong ear; but there was something enthralling about his performance.  You listened, and listened, thinking each time he must surely get it right; but no, it was always wrong, and always wrong the same way.  Yet he seemed proud of his song, delivered it with execution and a manner of his own, and was charming to his mate.  A very incorrect, incessant human whistler had thus a chance of knowing how his own music pleased the world.  Two great birds--eagles, we thought--dwelt at the top of the canyon, among the crags that were printed on the sky.  Now and again, but very rarely, they wheeled high over our heads in silence, or with a distant, dying scream; and then, with a fresh impulse, winged fleetly forward, dipped over a hill-top, and were gone.  They seemed solemn and ancient things, sailing the blue air; perhaps coeval with the mountain where they haunted, perhaps emigrants from Rome, where the glad legions may have shouted to behold them on the morn of battle.</P>
132.sgm:<P>But if birds were rare the place abounded with rattlesnakes--the rattlesnakes' nest, it might have been named.  Wherever we brushed among the bushes our passage woke their angry buzz.  One dwelt habitually in the wood-pile, and sometimes, when we came for fire-wood, thrust up his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>One person, however, better served by his instinct, had down the rattle from the first; and that was Chuchu, the dog.  No rational creature has ever led an existence more poisoned by terror than that dog's at Silverado.  Every whizz of the rattle made him bound.  His eyes rolled; he trembled; he would be often wet with sweat.  One of our great mysteries was his terror of the mountain.  A little above our nook the azaleas and almost all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>And there was, or there had been, another animal.  Once, under the broad daylight, on that open stony hillside, where the baby pines were growing, scarcely tall enough to be a badge for a Macgregor's bonnet, I came suddenly upon his innocent body, lying mummified by the dry air and sun, a pigmy kangaroo.  I am ingloriously ignorant of these subjects; had never heard of such a beast thought myself face to face with some incomparable sport of nature; and began to cherish hopes of immortality in science.  Rarely have I been conscious of a stranger thrill than when I raised that singular creature from the stones, dry as a board, his innocent heart long quiet, and all warm with sunshine.  His long hind legs were stiff, his tiny fore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Crickets were not wanting.  I thought I could make out exactly four of them, each with a corner of his own, who used to make night musical at Silverado.  In the matter of voice they far excelled the birds, and their ringing whistle sounded from rock to rock, calling and replying the same thing, as in a meaningless opera.  Thus, children in full health and spirits shout together, to the dismay of neighbors; and their idle, happy, deafening vociferations rise and fall like the song of the crickets.  I used to sit at night on the platform, and wonder why these creatures were so happy; and what was wrong with man that he also did not wind up his days with an hour or two of shouting; but I suspect that all long-lived animals are solemn.  The dogs alone are hardly used by nature; and it seems a manifest injustice for poor Chuchu to die in his teens, after a life so shadowed and troubled, continually shaken with alarm, and the tear of elegant sentiment permanently in his eye.</P>
132.sgm:<P>There was another neighbor of ours at Silverado, small but very active, a destructive fellow.  This was a black, ugly fly--a bore, the Hansons called him--who lived by hundreds in the boarding of our house.  He entered by a round hole, more neatly pierced than a man could do it with a gimlet, and he seems to have spent his life in cutting out the interior of the plank, but whether as a dwelling or a store-house I could never find.  When I used to lie in bed in the morning for a rest--we had no easy-chairs in Silverado--I would hear, hour after hour, the sharp cutting sound of his labors, and from time to time a dainty shower of sawdust would fall upon the blankets.  There lives no more industrious creature than a bore.</P>
132.sgm:<P>And now that I have named to the reader all our animals and insects, without exception--only I find I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Indeed, it would be hard to exaggerate the pleasure that we took in the approach of evening.  Our day was not very long, but it was very tiring.  To trip along unsteady planks or wade among shifting stones, to go to and fro for water, to clamber down the glen to the Toll House after meat and letters, to cook, to make fires and beds, were all exhausting to the body.  Life out of doors, besides, under the fierce eye of day, draws largely on the animal spirits.  There are certain hours in the afternoon when a man, unless he is in strong health or enjoys a vacant mind, would rather creep into a cool corner of a house and sit upon the chairs of civilization.  About that time the sharp stones, the planks, the upturned boxes of Silverado, began to grow irksome to my body; I set out on that hopeless, never-ending quest for a more comfortable posture; I would be fevered and weary of the staring sun; and just then he would begin courteously to withdraw his countenance, the shadows lengthened, the aromatic airs awoke, and an indescribable but happy change announced the coming of the night.</P>
132.sgm:<P>The hours of evening, when we were once curtained in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
132.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
132.sgm:<P>Our nights were never cold, and they were always still, but for one remarkable exception.  Regularly, about nine o'clock, a warm wind sprung up, and blew for ten minutes, or may be a quarter of an hour, right down the canyon, fanning it well out, airing it as a mother airs the night nursery before the children sleep.  As far as I could judge, in the clear darkness of the night, this wind was purely local; perhaps dependent on the configuration of the glen. At least, it was very welcome to the hot and weary squatters; and if we were not abed already the springing up of this liliputian valley-wind would often be our signal to retire.</P>
132.sgm:<P>I was the last to go to bed, as I was still the first to rise.  Many a night I have strolled about the platform, taking a bath of darkness before I slept.  The rest would be in bed, and even from the forge I could hear them talking together from bunk to bunk.  A single candle in the neck of a pint bottle was their only illumination; and yet the old cracked house seemed literally bursting with the light.  It shone keen as a knife through all the vertical chinks; it struck upward through the broken shingles; and through the eastern door and window it fell in a great splash upon the thicket and the overhanging rock.  You would have said a conflagration, or at the least a roaring forge; and behold, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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132.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
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133.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-133</TITLE>
133.sgm:<TITLE>Early days at the mission San Juan Bautista, by Issac L. Mylar; a narrative of incidents connected with the days when California was young: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
133.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
133.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
133.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
133.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
133.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>29-10700</LCCN>
133.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
133.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 6954</COPYRIGHT>
133.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
133.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
133.sgm:<P>To the Reader </p><P>ORIGINALLY appearing in the "Evening Pajaronian," Watsonville, California, as a serial narrative of Mr. Mylar's reminiscences, <HI REND="italics">Early Days at the Mission</HI>
133.sgm: <HI REND="italics">San Juan Bautista</HI>
133.sgm:, the tale was found so interesting that it was deemed worthy of perpetuation in book form by the publishers.</p><P>Accordingly, a small edition of 300 autographed copies were issued.</p><P>When this number is disposed of, the holders of this little volume will possess a book that is unique in this respect, that it is a limited edition, and no more copies will be printed.</p><P><HANDWRITTEN>Isaac L. Mylar</HANDWRITTEN>
133.sgm: AUTHOR<LB><HANDWRITTEN> Jas. G. Piratsky</HANDWRITTEN>
133.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Early Days at the Mission</p><P>San Juan Bautista</p><P><HI REND="italics">By</HI>
133.sgm: ISAAC L. MYLAR</p><P><HI REND="italics">A narrative of incidents connected with the</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">days when California was young</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>PUBLISHED BY</p><P>EVENING PAJARONIAN</p><P>WATSONVILLE, CALIFORNIA</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
133.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
133.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT 1929</p><P>BY</p><P>JAMES G. PIRATSKY</p></DIV>
133.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
133.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
133.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>Index</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P>FOREWORD<HSEP>7-8<LB>SAN JUAN BAUTISTA MISSION<HSEP>9-11<LB>CHAPTER I<HSEP>13-17<LB>Author's Arrival in California--Mining Operations at Shaw's Flat--Some Incidents of Mining Operations, in Early Days--Family Starts South, Passing Through San Juan, via El Camino Real--Salinas Valley in 1855.<LB>CHAPTER II<HSEP>19-25<LB>The Mission Bells--Secularization of the Missions by the Mexican Government--The Little Mission Cemetery--My Terror of the Black-Robed Padres--I Finally Get Acquainted with the Mission Fathers--A Beloved Padre.<LB>CHAPTER III<HSEP>27-34<LB>San Juan Schools, In the Early Days--Teachers Hard To Get--Pupils Studied Out of Various School Books--Some Pioneer Teachers--A Big School District--When Tom Clay Quelled Castroville's Turbulent Scholars.<LB>CHAPTER IV<HSEP>35-38<LB>Pioneer Merchants of San Juan--Supplies for New Idria Quicksilver Mines Conveyed Over Rough Roads, By Ox Teams--Why the Oxen Were Hitched Up Spanish Style--San Benito County Takes Over New Territory.<LB>CHAPTER V<HSEP>39-45<LB>Flint, Bixby and Hollister Purchase San Justo Rancho--How the "San Juan Lane" Came to be Laid Out--The Fatal Duel Between Spitts and Bixby--Names of Some of the Early Settlers on the Grant.<LB>CHAPTER VI<HSEP>47-49<LB>San Juan Valley Had Bad Roads in the Early Days--Summary Justice Was Meted Out to Criminals by Judge Lynch--Vigilantes Hang a Number of Criminals from a Tree on "The Alameda."<LB>CHAPTER VII<HSEP>51-59<LB>How the Streets Were Laid Out in San Juan, in Its Early Days--Names of Those Who Lived on the Principal Thoroughfares--Pioneer Merchants Carried Large and Varied Stocks--John Forney's Wedding.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
133.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
133.sgm:CHAPTER VIII<HSEP>61-68<LB>Who Dwelt in the Many Dwellings on San Juan Streets in 1855--Brief Description of Various Prominent Pioneer Families--John Bigley, the Pioneer Teamster, Always Paid Cash on the Spot for What He Wanted.<LB>CHAPTER IX<HSEP>69-77<LB>"Andy" Abbe Who Was Road Overseer and Had No Money Wherewith to Do the Roadwork--The Killing of Andrew Barker--The Prominent McMichael Family--Roscoe Hodgdon and the Firemen's Bell.<LB>CHAPTER X<HSEP>79-87<LB>Some Noted Characters in San Juan's Early Days--Luis Chavez, the Bandit--Bob Brotherton, the Man of Many Accomplishments--Whisky was Called "Hardware"--Pedro Carlos Who Invented the Card Game, "Pedro."<LB>CHAPTER XI<HSEP>89-96<LB>Why Did Mrs. Page Kill Kelly Near Sargent--Vasquez, the Bandit, Commits Depredations--Snyder's Vivid Description of the Killing at Paicines--Brief Sketch Vasquez life--Lived in San Juan in His Boyhood Days.<LB>CHAPTER XII<HSEP>97-101<LB>The Roles that the Pioneer Mothers Played in the Early Days--How the San Juan Folks Lived from 1855 to 1865--Grain was Ground in a Grist Mill, located at Corralitos--Author Goes Into the Sheep Business.<LB>CHAPTER XIII<HSEP>103-105<LB>The San Juan Valley an Immense Game Preserve in the Early Days--People Fared Well on Poultry and Fruits--Author's Father Succeeded in Buying Fruit Trees and Started an Orchard--The Watsonville Tinware Merchant.<LB>CHAPTER XIV<HSEP>107-109<LB>How Lumber was Procurred in Early Days--First Lumber Mill was Erected on Pescadero Creek--The Pioneer Grist Mill was Moved from Pescadero Creek to Watsonville--The Sawmill in the Bodfish Canyon.<LB>CHAPTER XV<HSEP>111-115<LB>Some of the Doctors and Lawyers in San Juan's Early Days--Doctor McDougall, the Typical Country Doctor--Doctor Hart, who Had Some Queer Peculiarities--Doctor Simmons, who Ultimately Moved to Watsonville.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
133.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
133.sgm:CHAPTER XVI<HSEP>117-120<LB>When the Pony Express Started in 1860--Dissension Between North and South Over the Slavery Question--San Juan Called a "Copperhead Town"--Why Troops Were Sent to San Juan.<LB>CHAPTER XVII<HSEP>121-126<LB>The Old-Time Road to the Salinas Valley--Description of Fiesta Days at Manuel Larios' Hacienda--Indian Women Did Early Day Washing--Tribute to the Late John Breen--Settlers in the Lower End of the Valley.<LB>CHAPTER XVIII<HSEP>127-130<LB>The Starting of the Overland Stage Line to Los Angeles, in 1861--A Perilous Trip in Bad Weather--Vivid Description of How the Stage Line Benefitted San Juan--Some of the Early Day Stage Coach Drivers.<LB>CHAPTER XIX<HSEP>131-136<LB>The Early Day Hotels in San Juan--Opening of the Plaza Hotel was a Big Event--Description of the Sports on the Plaza on St. John's Day--Fiestas were Attended by Thousands of People.<LB>CHAPTER XX<HSEP>137-142<LB>The Wet Winter of 1862--The Disastrous Drought of 1864--Distressing Scenes During the Year of the Drought--The Carcasses of Dead Cattle Poison the Air Along Every Roadside--The Author's First Railroad Ride.<LB>CHAPTER XXI<HSEP>143-146<LB>Religious Wave Struck San Juan in 1864--San Juan Boasted of Four Churches--Many Converts Made--Baptisms Frequent--Abraham Lincoln Assassinated--The Interesting Story of Evans James, (Johnny Bull).<LB>CHAPTER XXII<HSEP>147-150<LB>The Smallpox Epidemic of 1868--Pitiful Scenes During that Year--Town Quarrantined and Food Ran Low--Graphic Account of the Deadly Blow Against San Juan's Prosperity--Pest House on River Banks.<LB>CHAPTER XXIII<HSEP>151-156<LB>A Brief Account of the Creation of San Benito County--How and Why the Town of Hollister was Started--County Division Defeated the First Time, but Carried Two Years Later--How San Juan Lost the County Seat.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
133.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
133.sgm:CHAPTER XXIV<HSEP>157-162<LB>How County Division was Finally Brought About--How San Juan was Gerrymandered Out of the County Seat--Pajaro Valley Played a Big Part in County Division--Commissioners Who Organized the New County.<LB>CHAPTER XXV<HSEP>163-165<LB>The Early Day Newspapers of San Benito County--San Juan Had Weekly Papers from Time to Time--The New Town of Hollister Forges Rapidly to the Front and Becomes a Great Trading Center.<LB>CHAPTER XXVI<HSEP>167-171<LB>The Author's Marriage in 1876--The Dry Year of 1877--Tired of the Drought Author Goes to Oregon--Poor Prices for Stock--Roads Crowded with Families Migrating from the Southern Portion of the State.<LB>CHAPTER XXVII<HSEP>173-177<LB>Some of San Juan's Notable Characters, in the Early Days--Mark Regan, the Noted Stage Driver--The Disappearance of the Elder Sanchez--Varied Treasure Stories Become Rife--Jake Beuttler's Famous Brewery.<LB>CHAPTER XXVIII<HSEP>179-183<LB>Wages Low in 1876--Long Hours Worked--Farmers Suffered from Hard Times--Some of the Old Settlers--A Tribute to "China Jim"--How Jim Stanley Demonstrated that the Irish Could Raise Cattle.<LB>CHAPTER XXIX<HSEP>185-195<LB>Flint, Bixby Companies Various Enterprises in Early Days--Haydon Dowdy, one of San Benito County's Early Day Politicians--The Zanetta Family--Old Time Settlers in the Valley and Town--Tribute to the Pioneers.</p></DIV>
133.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
133.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
133.sgm:<HEAD>Foreword</HEAD>
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133.sgm:<illus entity="a133-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>John C. Fremont, known in history as "The Pathfinder." He played an important part in the early history of this state in connection with the annexation of California by the United States.</p><P>Fremont, with a small band of men, fearing an attack from the Mexicans, retreated to the highest peak in the Gabilan range, and, after fortifying his position to the best of his ability, awaited an attack by the Mexicans, which failed to transpire.</p><P>This peak, a few miles from San Juan, has, ever since, been known as "Fremont's Peak".</p></CAPTION>
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133.sgm:<HEAD>San Juan Bautista Mission</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P>BUT LITTLE was known of the interior of California prior to the commencement of the Mission era, or 1769, although various navigators had sailed along the California coast during the period intervening between the time of its discovery by Cabrillo in 1642, and the advent of the Franciscan missionaries.</p><P>The Indians had roamed through the mountains and plains of this western coast for unknown ages, living a degraded life, but little above the level of that of the wild animals indigenous to this region.  Of their origin or history there is no record.  Aside from the story of the rocks, and the vague lessons taught by the topography of the country, we know absolutely nothing of Alta California prior to 1642, nor, indeed, very little until the latter part of the eighteenth century.  The historical period, therefore, may be said to commence with the founding of the Missions.</p><P>During Father Junipero Serra's noble administration nine Missions had been founded in Alta or Upper California.  These Missions had gathered many Indians into their fold, or had brought them under their control, and they had also acquired considerable wealth in the form of cattle, horses, sheep and other useful animals, and grain, etc.</p><P>In November, 1795, Friar Danti and Lieutenant Sal and party set out from Monterey to explore the San Benito valley, and they found one site on the San Benito river and the other near the site of the present town of Gilroy.  President Lasuen reported these to Governor Borica, who embodied the same in his reports to the Viceroy.  As two sites had been recommended <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:the nave of the church, and an altar on each side of the transept.  The walls are four feet thick, braced with brick abutment outside over 20 feet long, and plastered with lime mortar.  The church formerly had a chime of nine very fine-toned bells, cast in Peru, only one of which now remains in the building.</p><P>The Mission of San Juan Bautista owned in 1820 over 40,000 head of cattle, nearly 1,400 tame horses and about 70,000 head of sheep.  Indians, under the control of the Mission, employed more than 300 yoke of work oxen in carrying on extensive farming operations.</p><P>In 1813 and again in 1828 the Spanish Cortez decreed the secularization of Missions in all Spanish colonies.  The Mexican congress, August 17th, 1833, passed a secularization law which was effectually enforced within two or three years thereafter.--[The foregoing history is taken from "The Memorial History of the Coast Counties of Central California."]</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<illus entity="a133-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A Side Entrance To The Old Mission Building</p></CAPTION>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 1</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The author's arrival in California--The stay at Vallecitos--Removal to Shaw's Flat--Family treks south--After reaching the Salinas river returns to San Juan</HI>
133.sgm:.</p><P>MY PARENTS crossed the plains in a covered wagon, drawn by three yoke of oxen, in 1852.  We arrived in California about the first of October of that year.  It took five months to make the trip.  There were about sixty immigrants in the train.  The trip across the country was uneventful, devoid of any excitement except that one of the immigrants died of cholera.  Luckily, the disease did not spread among the rest of the immigrants, and we were spared the usual horror that accompanies an epidemic of that nature.</p><P>We crossed the Sierras and, descending into California, my parents stopped at Vallecitos, Calaveras county, after passing through Placerville (at that time known as "Hangtown").  "Hangtown," as it was then known, was the abiding place of Studebaker; in after years, the millionaire manufacturer of the Studebaker wagons and buggies, and finally the celebrated Studebaker automobile.  Studebaker, while living in Placerville, conducted a blacksmith shop and made a large sum of money constructing wheel-barrows as a side line.  These wheel-barrows were purchased by miners to be used in mining operations.</p><P>At the time that my parents stopped at Vallecitos, I was nearly five years of age.  Our stay in Vallecitos was marked by two incidents which still stand out clearly in my mind.  One was the serious illness of my dear mother who fell quite ill after the long journey across the plains.  The other incident was my embarking in the poultry-raising business.</p><P>My father showed me how to look in the crevices of the bedrock for gold.  I would look along the little ravines close <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:to the cabin where we lived and would find small nuggets wedged in these crevices.  Perhaps there had been dozens who had gone over the same ground and picked up the larger pieces.  Those I got ranged from five to fifty cents in value.  One weighed two dollars and fifty cents.  I would take these and put them in a little gourd at the head of my mother's bed.  One of the neighboring miners had a hen and five small chicks and I greatly coveted them.  He asked ten dollars for the lot; mother said, "Father will weigh your gold at noon and if you have enough you can buy them."  When I poured it on the scales father laughed and said, "You're a pretty good miner."  I had nearly fifteen dollars.  He weighed out enough for ten dollars, (most of the miners had gold scales in those days), and I bought the hen and chicks.  Father fixed up a coop back of the cabin for the hen and her chicks.  I was up early the next morning to attend to my chickens, but, great grief, a fox had taken the lot.  It was a hard blow for me.</p><P>I will always remember how I went broke in the chicken business.</p><P>After stopping a short time at Vallecitos my parents moved to Shaw's Flat, Tuolumne county--between Sonora and Columbia, on the "Mother Lode."</p><P>Here my sister was born on the side of Table Mountain, on Feb. 22, 1855.  She afterwards married Wm. Allyn and is now residing in Oakland.</p><P>For nearly three years my father mined, with varying success, at Shaw's Flat.  Looking back over that period I recall that at the same time that my father was mining there, so was a hard-working energetic young miner known as Jim Fair, afterwards Senator James Fair; the man who built the Fair fortune and often boasted that he "never would be traced by the quarters that he dropped!"  At the time when Fair and my father were mining there they were engaged in working on a channel that was about a rod wide and some sixteen to eighteen feet deep.  This channel ran into Table Mountain, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:"Salinas plains"--now called the Salinas Valley.  The Salinas Valley, at that time, was covered with a wild growth of timber and heavy crops of mustard and tenanted by droves of antelope and other game.</p><P>There were, even at that early date, a few houses at Natividad, where had occurred the celebrated "Battle of Natividad" between the Mexicans and gringos.</p><P>"The Battle of Natividad," which occurred in December, 1846, was between a detachment of men commanded by a Captain Foster and a force sent after them by Governor Pico from Monterey.  Foster's detachment were United States soldiers and were engaged in bringing a band of horses from the North to Los Angeles.  Pico's detachment was sent to not only stop the soldiers from passing through, but to capture the horses.  The horses were run into a narrow canyon somewhere, I think, over on the Alisal.  The scrimmage was short and sanguinary as Captain Foster was killed as were also eleven of his men.  I don't know how many were killed on the Mexican side but undoubtedly they paid dearly for their temerity in attacking the Americans.  It was said afterwards that this engagement was the only fight ever known in which the Mexicans got the best of the Americans.  However, the Mexicans did not succeed in their attempt to capture the band of horses.</p><P>We camped on the bank of the Salinas river that afternoon and awaited the return of my father, who, struck by the business activity and picturesque location of San Juan, had retraced his steps to that town.  Finding some families, who were anxious to return to Carson, Nevada, he bought one hundred and sixty acres which they had taken up.  This land was located about one mile south of town, adjoining the John Breen tract.  The land bought was well fenced and contained a two-story frame structure which had been erected in 1852.  The house was well built and there was not a piece of sawed wood in it, all the lumber being split stuff, even to the floor, and planed by hand.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>As soon as my father consummated this transaction our family traveled back to San Juan.  My mother was delighted with the location of our new home and said that she never wanted to leave it.  She never did.  She lived there eleven years before she died.</p><P>The loss of my mother was a great misfortune to all of us, and we grieved over her passing away for a long time.  To me, she embodied all that was charming, beautiful and lovable.  My father, who was inclined to travel greatly--in fact was afflicted with the wanderlust, missed her sorely, and for a time it seemed as though our home might be broken up if our father took to the road again in search of fresh fields and pastures new.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<illus entity="a133-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>View of Fremont's Peak, the highest landmark in the Gabilan range, to which point John C. Fremont retreated from the Mexican forces.</p></CAPTION>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Mission Bells that filled the vale with melody--Secularization of the Missions by the Mexican Government--The little Mission cemetery wherein thousands were buried</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>AT SAN JUAN, in the shadow of the old mission church--built there in 1797, I grew to manhood.  The Angelus bells rang out, sending their silvery tones over the peaceful valley each morning, noon and evening, and I remember we would set our watches by the mission bells.  It was solar time that was given to us.  The Padres, or their assistants, took the time by a large sun-dial that was in the mission yard.  The bells, also, rang out at eight o'clock, each evening, serving as a notice for everyone to retire for the night; this latter signal was intended for the Indians, whose welfare was looked after closely by the mission fathers.  The six o'clock Angelus bell was a notification for them to prepare and eat their evening meal.  The eight o'clock bell was for them to retire, as they were not allowed to roam around at night.  When we came to San Juan the mission boasted of three bells attached to a long beam which was supported about ten feet from the ground by two immense posts, sunk in the ground, and these bells were located about thirty feet from the front of the church door.  The stroke was made by a piece of rawhide being attached to each clapper (or bell tongue).  They were a fine set of bells; at times, according to the temperature, silvery and then apparently golden in tone.  They could be heard from six to seven miles--yes, even over to the sheep ranch owned by Mr. Hollister, now the site of the flourishing county seat of San Benito county.  Ah! many a time those silvery-sounding bells, which linger yet in memory's recollection, warned me to hurry home for meals.  In due time, by some means or another, two of these beautiful bells were cracked and the mission fathers had them recast.  I do not know where the fathers sent them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:way to the old San Diego Mission.  The meeting was a joyful one and we made the trip together.  A gentle, kindly soul!  He has long since passed to his heavenly reward.  I shall always remember him with affection.</p><P>Another priest, the late Father Valentin Closa, was almost my spiritual advisor when I would consult him about my friend and neighbor, Mary Ferguson.</p><P>Mary Ferguson would start for town with a white rag tied over her head.  We had no radios, but a message would go on the air quicker than radio.  "Mary Ferguson is in town!" and the fellows would disappear.  You couldn't even find the constable with a search warrant.  But I had to eat, occasionally, and Mary would corner me going or coming home and her vocabulary of profane words was something amazing.  It was after one of these encounters that I generally had a talk with Father Closa, who apparently had heard Mary's tongue wag.</p><P>So, we were brother members, as it were.  Father Closa was a fine christian gentleman, and many good talks I had with him.  He would advise me not to lose my temper, and I have always been thankful for the counsel that he gave me.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Juan's schools, in the early days, were unique--Teachers were hard to get and hard to keep--Some of the pioneer teachers</HI>
133.sgm:.</p><P>AS I RELATED, at the beginning of these reminiscences, the first school I attended was in Tuolumne county.  The next school that contributed towards my education was in San Juan.  This school district comprised what is now known as San Benito county, and it was a school district with an area larger than the whole state of Rhode Island.</p><P>I remember the names of two of the first trustees of that school district.  One was Patrick Breen, the father of the well-known Breen family who were members of the ill-fated Donner party.  At the time we arrived in San Juan (1855) Mr. Breen was postmaster and the Breen family resided in the adobe home once owned by General Castro. This relic of former days, with its long veranda, still stands alongside the Plaza Hotel.  The other trustee of the school was John Jordan who farmed a tract of land in the lower end of the valley adjacent to Frank Ross' place.  Jordan was principally engaged in raising hogs.  Frank Ross was afterwards sheriff of San Benito county.  I do not remember the name of the third trustee.</p><P>When the school district was first organized they rented a building; in fact they rented several--first locating the school here and then there, but finally built the one-story building that for years was used as a school and which is located at the lower end of the cemetery property, across on the "Rocks Road."</p><P>We had many teachers in that school; men of different nationalities.  The first that I remember was William B. Harris, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:a very peculiar man.  He was of Cherokee extraction and his father lived in the San Juan Canyon.  The next teacher was Mr. Cooper who was followed by the Rev. Azariah Martin, afterwards principal for many years of the Hollister School District.  Mr. Martin was a minister (if I remember correctly, of the Methodist denomination).</p><P>The first tax levy for school purposes occurred in 1868 to defray the expenses of erecting a school on the site now occupied by the San Juan High School.  It must be understood that in those days there were no such things as high schools or grammar schools or universities.  All the pupils attended the one teacher who was a male, in fact, generally speaking, all the teachers were men.  The people employed whoever they could get to take the job.  Sometimes it would be a minister and sometimes a lawyer; men unable to make a living following their professions.</p><P>In about four or five months the school money was gone and then school was suspended and sometimes the teacher, if he was able, would start a private school to which my parents would send me.  Sometimes the teacher would be Scotch, and at other times Irish.  There was, up to the time the school was built, no regular building for holding school.  It was usually some private house or church until 1859 when the small school building above alluded to on the "Rocks Road," was built.  It is deserted now and has not been used for many years.</p><P>In the early sixties, after this schoolhouse was built, there came to San Juan a young man by the name of Samuel Shearer, who applied for the position of teacher.  The trustees hired him and he retained the position for a long time.  As a teacher Mr. Shearer was second to none.  He had the faculty of being able to impart knowledge to pupils so that they would understand it.  His hobby was mathematics.  There was always a broad smile on his face when he had some of us at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:blackboard working at a difficult problem and explaining as we proceeded the whys and wherefores of the operation.</p><P>Mr. Shearer taught all the pupils in the school and, as there were too many scholars for one teacher to attend to, properly, the trustees hired an assistant for the smaller pupils.  This lady's name was Miss French.</p><P>Well do I remember the day she came.  Some of the boys including myself, all about the same age, talked it over and we concluded it would be embarrassing for a perfect stranger to take charge of a school like that one.  So, we put it up to Mr. Shearer and he advised us to appoint someone to escort her to the school.  Simeon Harris was picked to do the honors, as he was about the best dressed pupil.  He performed the task with credit to himself.</p><P>Simeon Harris was a classmate of mine and a very bright boy.  Simeon and Alfred Harris, another schoolmate, were brothers of Dan Harris, the San Juan merchant.  Amelia Harris, who also attended the same school was a sister of the above named lads.</p><P>The introduction of Mr. Shearer to Miss French rang the bell--not at that particular time, but not so very long after, the wedding bells rang and Miss French became the wife of Samuel Shearer.</p><P>On Friday afternoon we had recitations and spelling matches.  There were always parents and grownups present to see how we performed.  This, I think, had a very good effect on the pupils.</p><P>Mr. Shearer afterwards located in Salinas and was elected superintendent of schools in Monterey county.  Mr. Shearer was also for a long time a grain broker.</p><P>Mr. Shearer died a few years ago.  Towards the last of his life he commenced writing a series of reminiscenses which were published in the Salinas Index, and which proved to be highly interesting.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>At one period in Castroville's history the school trustees engaged a teacher from Monterey.  His name was Tom Clay, a nephew of the famous Henry Clay of Congressional fame in the 50's in Washington and one of the principal figures in the lurid discussions in congress that led to our Civil War.  Tom Clay said that he would teach the school and in due time it was announced that the school would reopen with a new teacher.  The boys prepared to give this new teacher a taste of wild life and intended to hold a jamboree when he was compelled to make his exit from the scene of his labors.</p><P>On the morning that the school opened all the pupils attended--boys and girls.  The boys were of mature size, many of them could be called young men they were such strapping, muscular young fellows.  Tom Clay rang the bell, the pupils trooped in and took their places.  Clay proceeded to his desk and after making the pupils recite the Lord's prayer told them to sit down.  Then, reaching back to his hip pocket, he pulled out a six-shooter which he regarded fondly and, laying it on the edge of his desk, remarked; "I want all you pupils, especially you young bucks, to understand right now, that I am going to run this school and teach you something.  You will do as I say or there is going to be trouble.</p><P>History relates that there was no further trouble in that school.  The pupils became obedient and "perlite" and Tom Clay retired from his position, as teacher, with added lustre to the name of Clay.<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
133.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1"><P>(Editor's Note:--Mr. Mylar tells the above story and places the incident at Castroville.  He tells us that he got the story from Tom Clay himself.  Now, in the early days when we were in Hollister running the Free Lance, we heard the same story but it was located at Fairview.  Fairview was known as the Irish District of San Benito County.  It contained the families of the Doolings, the Hudner's the Daly's, the Cagneys, and others.</p><P>The Fairview school was said to have had the biggest and most turbulent youngsters in all San Benito County.  Amongst the pupils were men now prominent and highly respected citizens of San Benito County.  The story goes, as told us, that these boys had run every teacher out of that school.  It was their pastime.  Finally, Tom Clay was engaged to teach and on the morning that he opened the school he laid not one six-shooter, but two six-shooters on the edge of his desk, having extracted the aforesaid artillery from his hip pockets, and remarked, "I understand that you blankety-blank-blanks have been running every teacher out of this school.  Well, you can't run me out but, if you think you can, start in just as soon as possible.  I am going to run this school and teach you.  And if you get rough with me I'm going to kill some of you!"  And history says that he taught the school.  It became a model school, but those pupils saw to it that he was not re-engaged for another term.</p><P>We knew Tom Clay well, in fact, we came near being killed by him one night, but that is another story.  Clay was one of Hollister's best-known "characters."  His violent antagonism to the churches and their ministers, which he recited on every possible occasion, especially against the Catholic church, made him a village pest who could break up any street gathering quicker than a skunk.  Towards his last days Tom took a fancy to the editor of the Pajaronian and we became quite friendly.  He was, indeed, a strange character.--Ed. Pajaronian).</p></NOTE>
133.sgm:<P>The San Juan parents sent their children to school to obey the rules and if they were punished for disobedience, they were generally punished again on their return home.  My parents considered it a mark of disgrace for their children to be whipped for disobeying the rules.  They argued that the teacher must have had a good reason for flogging or else he would not have done so and accordingly, Solomon's injunction to "Chastise thy son in his youth so that he may rejoice in his latter end" was followed to the letter by outraged parents.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Of all the pupils that attended the San Juan school when I went to school there, but five remain, one of whom is Fielding Hodges, son of Chas. and Mrs. Hodges who came to San Juan in 1857.  Of a family of five children, but three boys remain; Fielding, William and Samuel Hodges.  William Hodges has been employed in the assessor's office in Oakland for the past thirty years; Samuel Hodges lives in Hollister on the San Benito river and Fielding Hodges married a daughter of Tile and Mrs. Rupe.  They have a fine residence on the west side of Monterey street between Third and Fourth Streets, San Juan.  He is a carpenter by trade and is the same booster for San Juan that he was years and years ago.</p><P>Mrs. L. E. Mossup, daughter of Dr. Robt. Mathews, was born in Texas in 1848 and came, with her father, to California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:in 1852 arriving in November of that year at San Juan.  Dr. Mathews traveled overland from Texas to Mazatlan in Mexico where he took passage on a boat to California with his daughter, his wife being deceased.  The boat was poorly manned and to make the journey worse a fever broke out amongst the passengers, of which there were four hundred.  They soon ran low on water to drink there being only a small tumblerful allowed to each passenger daily.  The passengers were dying so rapidly that there were scarcely enough well ones to bury the ones that died.  After drifting most of the time, at the end of seventy-two days, they finally landed on Morro Rock, close to San Luis Obispo.  Out of the four hundred passengers but five remained besides the sailors.</p><P>Dr. Mathews took up his residence in San Juan where Mrs. Mossup grew up and at the age of eighteen married L. A. Mossup in May 1866.  Mr. and Mrs. Mossup resided at Bitterwater Valley where they farmed for years.  They afterwards moved to Monterey where Mr. Mossup died.  Mrs. Mossup is a half sister to the late Sam and John Mathews, who were large stockraisers in Monterey county.  Mrs. Mossup owns a comfortable home at 505 Van Buren street, Monterey.  Two of her sons, George and Victor live with her.  She does her own household work and is cheerful and optimistic.</p><P>Another one of my schoolmates is Mrs. Thos. Bickmore of Hollister.  Mrs. Bickmore came to San Juan, in 1854 with her stepfather, Dr. Campbell, and her mother.  Her mother was a sister of Dr. Robt. Mathews.  Mrs. Bickmore's maiden name was Martha Cullumber.  Her father died in Arizona and her mother afterwards married Dr. Campbell.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The pioneer merchandise stores of San Juan--The merchants who conducted them--Supplies of New Idria Mines were conveyed by ox teams yoked Spanish style</HI>
133.sgm:.</p><P>IN 1855-1856, San Juan was an important point on "El Camino Real."  Few towns could boast of more activity than this stopping place for the overland stages.  There were four general merchandise stores; quite a number for so early a period.</p><P>One store was conducted by James McMahon, Sr.  This was James McMahon who afterwards built the McMahon House in Hollister, the leading hostelry in that town, for many years.  It is not necessary to remark that McMahon was an Irishman.  He was the father of Tom McMahon, afterwards a prominent merchant in Hollister; James who became a lawyer, and several daughters, one of whom married Judge Jas. F. Breen, a member of the Breen family of San Juan.  Judge Breen served San Benito county for many years as Superior Judge.</p><P>It was Jas. McMahon, Sr., who purchased the Florence School at Hollister and presented it to the Catholic Sisters.  This incident is worth relating.  I forget what denomination built that school.  It was a fine two-story building on the block back of the present Catholic church in Hollister.  It was intended as a denominational school but did not prosper and finally the mortgage falling due "Jim" McMahon purchased the property and presented it to the sisters with the proviso that it had to be used as a Catholic school, otherwise it would revert to the McMahon estate.  This school is the site of the present sisters' school at Hollister, and, needless to say, it has never reverted to the McMahon heirs.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:torn down by the team in making the turn.  My brother, who was about 17 years old, decided to lighten his labor of having to repair the fence so often by stopping this damage.  Accordingly he cut down an oak tree which had two limbs sticking out.  The tree was about two feet through.  This he planted at the corner about four feet in the ground.  After that no further damage was done to our fence but, oh, Lord, the language that was used by those drivers.  I understood Spanish and used to take great delight in hearing their strong language.</p><P>After the road was fixed up and opened to some extent, Americans began to use six-horse teams and freighting became general.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The San Justo Rancho and how it came to be purchased by Flint, Bixby and Hollister--The San Juan Lane--The Killing of Spitts and Bixby</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>I THINK it was in 1854 or 1855, I am not clear about the date, that Dr. Thos. Flint, Llewllyn Bixby, Ben Flint and W. W. Hollister bought what was known as the San Justo Rancho.  This rancho comprised over one-half of the San Juan Valley and extended from below our place over to the Santa Ana Valley.  Its width comprised from the Bolsa (through which the S.P. R.R. line now runs) across the top of what was afterwards known as the "Flint Hills" to the low hill at the base of the Gabilan range and contained 35,619 acres.  Between this row of hills and the Gabilan range is located what is known as the San Juan Canyon.</p><P>Hollister, at that time, lived on the site of what afterwards was Dr. Flint's home.  Dr. Flint lived close to Hollister on the site of what was afterwards known as Straube's place but which site has long since been washed away by freshet flows of the river.  The San Justo Rancho, as it was then known, and which was a great domain, was owned by the Pacheco family after whom the Pacheco Pass is now named.  Don Pacheco got this ranch as a grant from the Mexican government.  At the time that Flint, Bixby et al., bought the rancho there were quite a number of squatters on the land but, most of these squatters, finding it useless to endeavor to set up any title to their holdings, moved away peaceably.  Still, however, there were some of the squatters who held hard feelings against the new owners of the land and nourished a grudge against them.  This nourished grudge resulted in a mysterious killing which has never been satisfactorily explained.  One of the men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:and Flint &amp; Bixby the northern portion.  There was a difference in Hollister's favor in the division of the rancho worth $10,000 which money was paid over to him by Flint &amp; Bixby.</p><P>Some time after the San Justo Rancho was divided between Flint, Bixby &amp; Co., and Hollister, a terrible tragedy occurred on the San Juan Lane at what was commonly known as the "Middle of the Lane."</p><P>At that point there stood a house that had been built by one of the squatters, and around it had been also erected a number of sheep corrals, or sheds.  The Flint, Bixby Co., kept a flock of sheep there.  A young brother of Llewllyn Bixby had come from the east and Llewllyn placed him at this house in charge of the sheep--I have forgotten this younger brother's name.  He was about 19 years of age.</p><P>Florence Spitts, who was one of the original settlers on the San Justo Rancho, after its purchase by the Flint, Bixby Co., and Hollister, settled east of the present city of Hollister somewhere out in the Santa Ana Valley section where he found some government land and took it up.  He always came to San Juan for his supplies.</p><P>One day making a visit to San Juan, on leaving that town, he arrived about sun-down at my father's place.  I remember this incident well because my father, my brother and I were milking cows in the barn yard, when he rode in on our place.  I noticed in particular that he had a churn-dasher tied to the back of his saddle.  He had seemed ill-humored and ready for a warm argument.  He stayed at our place but a short time and started homeward.</p><P>The next morning a passerby coming along the lane found the front gate belonging to the house occupied by young Bixby torn from its fastenings and lying in the middle of the road, presumably wrenched from its fastenings by a lariat attached to the pommel of a saddle.  In the middle of a corral, in front of the house was found Spitts' horse shot dead.  At the rear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>The father of Bob Francis was a shoemaker, and after he died my father bought his shoe-making tools.  Mrs. Francis died in the valley and Bob returned to the east and was never heard from again.</p><P>A little farther along in the valley I should judge about a half mile, or so, Andrew Abbe lived.</p><P>The next place was occupied by a man by the name of Brandon.  Brandon afterwards took charge of the toll-house on the Pacheco Pass road.  He maintained a roadside inn there.</p><P>After Brandon's death his widow married Cy Dubois, a horseman and trader who followed the races.  Mr. Dubois was well known throughout the San Juan and Santa Clara Valleys.  After their marriage, Mr. and Mrs. Dubois resided for a while in San Jose.</p><P>The next place was Florence Spitts', whose tragic death we have mentioned previously.  He lived at the mouth of a canyon, which was always known, and is still known, as "Spitts' Canyon."</p><P>The next settler to Spitts was a man by the name of Pennypacker.  He lived on the land that George Moore subsequently acquired from the Hollister subdivision.</p><P>Through the middle of the valley, about where the lane runs now, was located the home of Benjamin Wilcox.  Wilcox's home was located on the north side of the valley.</p><P>About a stone's throw from the lane, where it is now located, was a place occupied by William Thorne.  Mr. Thorne's wife died there in 1857.</p><P>There were a few other settlers on the San Justo Rancho at the time but they moved away and I have forgotten their names.</p><P>On the north side of the valley, near the bank of the San Benito river, lived a family by the name of Crooks.  Their place was situated about a half mile above where Ben Flint <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:afterwards lived.  Mr. Crooks had married a sister of the well-known Watson brothers, Dave, Steve, Henry and the rest of them.  Crooks had a son about my age, a schoolmate, who was named Cassius.  He was named after Cassius M. Clay, the distinguished member of Congress.  After leaving the San Justo Rancho, Crooks and his family moved to Grass Valley, otherwise known as the Cienega.  This is the valley that gives Hollister its present water supply.</p><P>On the opposite side of the San Benito River from Crooks' place, there lived a family by the name of Campbell.  Mr. Campbell married a widow by the name of Cullumber, who was a sister of Dr. Mathews and "Uncle Johnny" of San Benito.  "Uncle Johnny" Mathews was the Democratic assemblyman, for many terms, for San Benito county after it was created, and was one of the finest, squarest, and most honorable men that ever sat in the assembly chamber at Sacramento.  John, Sam, and Martha Cullumber were schoolmates of mine at San Juan.  Martha Cullumber afterwards married a man by the name of Bickmore.  The Bickmore family lived at Corralitos, in Santa Cruz county.  In passing let me remark that Martha was a splendid girl.</p><P>At the Campbell place commenced a road that ran directly over into the San Joaquin Valley.  It was used by the people of San Juan for several years.  This road skirted the low hills to a point and then struck directly to the Pacheco adobe, on the south bank of Pacheco creek, and thence through the Pass into the San Joaquin Valley.  This was a main traveled thoroughfare in those days.</p><P>Benjamin Wilcox, after moving off the San Justo Rancho, purchased a plot of ten acres on the west side of the Alameda.  He erected a nice house on it.  The plans for this house were drawn by George Chalmers, brother of Alec Chalmers who built the Pajaro Valley National Bank building, and many other notable structures in the early days of Watsonville.  Chalmers, in the construction of the house, was assisted by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:Wilcox' sons Edward and Sylvester Wilcox, who were carpenters.  Joseph Wilcox plastered the edifice and did the inside work.  The house had a cutstone foundation.  As I passed this building every day going to and coming from school, I watched the progress of its construction.  Little did I think, at that time, that it would play such an important part in my life.  It was here, soon after the Wilcox family moved into their new home, that I saw a little girl playing around in the yard.  This little girl afterwards became my wife.</p><P>Benjamin Wilcox' word was as good as his bond.  There never lived a more square or more honorable gentleman.  He was born in New York in 1796, and died in New York City in 1870.  He died from heart prostration on a visit to New York which he made with his wife, who was afflicted with a cancer on the eye and for whom he sought treatment from a specialist.  Mrs. Wilcox returned and did not die until two years later.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<illus entity="a133-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The celebrated Pinnacles, discovered by Vancouver, the explorer.  Are situated on the road to the New Idria mines, in the southern end of San Benito County.  The United States' government has reserved the Pinnacles as a park and they are conceded to be one of the wonders of the world.</p></CAPTION>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The roads to and from San Juan were very rough in the early days--Many bad characters--Summary justice meted out to criminals by Judge Lynch</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>SAN JUAN was visited in the middle of the '50's by every wayfarer travelling north or south.  We were on "El Camino Real" for sure.  There was no other road up or down the coast except by the Tejon Pass, beyond Bakersfield, and very few traveled that route.  At that time there were no houses in the San Joaquin Valley, no accommodations were to be had and it was naturally a very hard and toilsome route.  The missions seemed to have been established a certain distance apart and as there was always someone living around them it made it more comfortable and convenient for travelers.  From San Juan to Santa Clara Mission was about 45 miles; from San Juan to Monterey about 40 miles; from San Juan to Soledad Mission, also about 40 miles, and so on, down the coast, making them within a day's journey of each other.</p><P>The peculiar fact about that road was that it was all a perfectly natural road--that is, it was easy to travel notwithstanding the fact that from one end to the other, it was never looked after by any road crew.</p><P>All the things I missed when out of school I saw while in school because the road passed the school house and we missed nothing.  There would be the "carretta" or wooden cart, with wheels of solid wood six inches thick and about five feet high with a hole in the center through which a big wooden axle, with a tongue, was inserted.  A bed was put on this and some standards set up to carry the rawhide top which was very heavy and rough.  Under this top, on rude seats, sat the women and children.  The vehicle was drawn by two yoke <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:of oxen as one yoke of oxen would have had a hard time pulling the cart alone.  Often you could hear these "carrettas" squeaking long before, and after, you could see them, crying for lack of grease.  The men generally rode on horseback.  Then there would be covered wagons going south drawn by horses in which rode Americans looking for homes.  It was no wonder that all of California's bandits could be traced to San Juan during some part of their career.  Murietta, "Three-Fingered Jack," Vasquez, and Chavez, were frequent visitors to the town.</p><P>Chavez, as a boy lived at San Juan.  I knew him well and played marbles with him many times.  He was a hard-looking boy, almost like an Indian, not a bad boy but rough, thick-necked, dark and heavy set.</p><P>Although Vasquez went to school at San Juan, I did not know him then.  I saw him time and again in after years.  The bandits would stay, during the day, in the upper story of the buildings along Fourth street, which was known as the "waterfront" and come out and prowl around the streets at night.  We never said anything to them for fear of reprisals.</p><P>There were others in the town that could be called bad men, but the American population that had settled in and around the town had a way of handling them that made them good citizens.  I found that out one morning on my way to school.</p><P>I had to travel along what was called "The Alameda"--a street or road that extended out in our direction and had been planted with willows on each side, by the padres, a certain distance apart.  They had grown to be large trees during all those years.  At some time in the long distant past, "The Alameda" had been paved with brick by the padres for I had noticed here and there remnants of the bricks protruding through the dust.  One of these trees in particular had a limb extending over the road and on this morning as I was skipping along to school I was horrified to see the body of a man suspended from this limb.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>It developed that this was the body of a man who, the night previous, had killed one of the Flint-Bixby sheep-herders.  The sheep-herder came into town that night and displayed some twenty-five dollars or so.  This excited the cupidity of the man whose body I saw.  He stealthily followed the sheep-herder as the latter proceeded homeward, and killed him with a picket which he wrenched from the nearby fence.  It so happened that he killed the sheep-herder underneath this same tree.  The crime was traced to the man by a band of the citizens, "Vigilantes," as they were styled in those days, who administered summary justice by hanging him to the tree.</p><P>Another time I saw two bodies hanging from this same tree.  I am proud to say, looking back, that in all my life I never took part in any mob, or in any scene of violence although nearly every mob act that I witnessed at San Juan was to my thinking justified, and you may well believe that San Juan in the early days was the scene of much lawlessness and crime.</p><P>Another time, proceeding to school, in the morning, I saw, near this same tree on "The Alameda," a man's hat.  I commenced looking around and peering over a fence into a ditch, I saw the body of a murdered man in the running water.  He had been shot through the right temple and was instantly killed.  The pistol had been placed almost against the skin, for his temple was powder-marked, and both murderer and victim must have been mounted at the time the deed was done.</p><P>Badly scared I ran into town and reported my find.  Citizens went out, recovered the body, and held an inquest, but so far as I know the mystery was never solved--who the murdered man was and who killed him.  Connor Hickey, who lived up in the San Juan Canyon, going home late the night before had seen two Mexicans.  These Mexicans were arrested but as nothing could be proved against them they were released.</p></DIV>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Streets in San Juan in its Early Days, and those who lived on the principal thoroughfares--Some of the Pioneer Merchants</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>AT THIS point I desire to take up the layout of the streets of San Juan Bautista as they were in my boyhood days.</p><P>First Street is the street on which the present high school is located; Second Street is the street which leads up to the plaza; Third Street was and still is the principal street of San Juan; Fourth Street was commonly known as the "Waterfront."</p><P>In other words the traveler coming from San Jose came along First Street to the outskirts of the town where he debouched in on Second Street which led up to the plaza; or, if he did not intend going to the Plaza Hotel, or the old Mission, he turned still farther west and struck the main thoroughfare, Third Street.</p><P>Now on this main thoroughfare were located in the early days (1856) the following stores and residences:</p><P>Going from my home to school the first big place on the left was a large adobe structure occupied by the Castro family.  The place was noted for the beautiful flowers that grew in the front yard.  I remember that I often asked the women of that household for some of the flowers which they generously bestowed upon me.  On the opposite side of the street from the Castro residence was a small house occupied by a French woman named Madame Azul.  Adjoining the Madame's holdings was the residence of Samuel Breen, brother of Patrick Breen, Sr.</p><P>One the left again, on the corner of Franklin and Third Streets was a square adobe used as a dwelling at that time and since then for many other purposes.  Next to this adobe came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:a vacant lot, then another adobe in the shape of an "L" which extended along Third Street to a certain point, and then down Washington Street.  It was a saloon at that date, and although used for many other purposes since my boyhood days, it is still standing.</p><P>The saloon was conducted by one John Forney.  I remember one incident that occurred when Forney got married.  A marriage in those days was a notable event and consequently the boys determined to give Forney a good sendoff.</p><P>There was an old cannon lying on the ground in the plaza that was used for Fourth of July celebrations and other festive occasions.  The boys took this old muzzle-loader down about midnight and placed it on the porch of Forney's saloon.  At a given signal they touched the cannon off and it blew every pane of glass in the house to smithereens!</p><P>A seven-days' wonder in San Juan, just then, was--what did the boys load that cannon with?</p><P>Forney was game.  He invited the boys in and treated them to champagne and then some more.  The celebration was long-remembered for many of the participants in that "blow-out," did not sober up from it for two weeks after.</p><P>It was in this saloon that Gregorio Sanchez killed John Hopper in self-defense.  The quarrel between the two men culminated in Hopper's attacking Sanchez with a pick-handle and Gregorio "acted quick."</p><P>Years after the saloon was the scene of a very funny incident.  I have mentioned elsewhere, in this narrative Ex-Sheriff Frank Ross.  The incident I am about to relate occurred a long time after Forney's wedding, when the saloon was run by Mr. Filoucheau, who was the agent for the vineyard products of Theophile Vache.  It will be remembered by some of the readers of these memoirs, that for years, possibly twenty years if not longer, one of the noted landmarks in San Benito county was the Palmtag vineyard, located on the Bird Creek road, nine miles from San Juan.  This vineyard was originally set out in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:was the first theatre that San Juan had.  It was called "Tuccoletta Hall," and was the scene of many "wild" parties.</p><P>Next to this building was an adobe in which was conducted a horseshoeing business.  This was run by Edward Breen, a son of Samuel Breen.  Samuel Breen was a brother to Patrick Breen.  Edward Breen was a happy-go-lucky chap who was forever playing tricks on luckless wights.</p><P>The building next to Breen's shop was a long, narrow, adobe structure, occupied by a Frenchman, who conducted therein a jewelry store.  This man's name, if I remember aright, was Chatlaine.  To gain admittance to this building you had to descend two steps.  I remember the place very well for, in my school days, whether going or coming, I always stopped in front of that shop and looked at an old-time chronometer in the display window.  This chronometer had a pendulum about six inches in diameter and it moved so slowly that, actually, I would watch it for quite a length of time expecting it to stop--but it never stopped.  It ran right along until the old Frenchman died.  The late Dr. Cargill got that clock, and blamed if it ever ran again, although it was a fine piece of workmanship and up to the time the old man died had maintained splendid time.</p><P>Next to this old Frenchman's place was the Sebastopol Hotel; a square building two stories high, conducted by Angelo Zanetta, who had moved to San Juan from Monterey.</p><P>In the bar-room of this hotel there was a six-pocket billiard table that had been brought around the horn in a sailing vessel, in 1855.</p><P>In this hotel was born, Ernest Zanetta, known throughout the west as "CC" Zanetta; now, and for years past, the constable of San Juan township.  Ernest Zanetta married Clara Abbe, daughter of Andrew Abbe, the well-known pioneer of San Juan and one of the original settlers on the San Justo Rancho.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:was used for dancing.  I remember this hall distinctly as it was there that I took my first lesson in dancing, at a cascaroni ball.</p><P>I forget the name of the first man that ran this place, but later on it was conducted by Luis Raggio, Sr.  It was in the saloon in this building that one night Bart Taylor was shot in the shoulder by Pablo German.  That day there had been a horse race at San Juan, the principal contenders being Cal Ross and the German brothers, Pablo, Chino and Felipe.</p><P>Cal Ross was the brother of Annie Ross who afterwards became the wife of the late Hy Woods of Watsonville.  There was bad blood between Cal Ross and the German brothers over the outcome of the race as Ross' horse had beat Germans' racer.  The shooting was extremely dramatic and highly sensational.  I can vouch for this as I was in the saloon at the time the shots were fired.</p><P>All hands were crowded around the billiard table on which a rondo game was being conducted.  Everyone in the place except myself, a mere stripling, was in a hilarious mood as a great deal of liquor had been consumed over the outcome of the horse race.  Cal Ross, anticipating trouble with the Germans yet not wishing to bring on an encounter, had laid his pistol belt aside and tying his six-shooter to a string on his left side under his coat, was acting as gamekeeper.  Suddenly one of the German boys clasped Cal around the waist pinning his hands to his sides and a shot was fired, at him, but missing him struck Taylor.</p><P>The Germans evidently thought that Cal was unarmed but when the man holding Cal felt the pistol he gave the alarm and they fled.  As soon as Cal got loose he drew his revolver and commenced firing.  The Germans returned the fire and although the place was decidedly crowded everyone miraculously escaped except old man Raggio who was burned along the neck by one of the bullets, leaving a red mark.  Raggio, thinking himself shot, dropped to the floor, behind the counter, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:came up, instantly, with two six-shooters, one in each hand, with which he contributed to the gaiety of the occasion.</p><P>There was an old Chinese gong in the room with which they were accustomed to summon guests to meals and one of the bullets striking this gong, considerable confusion ensued.</p><P>It was certainly a night to be remembered!</p><P>In passing let me state that old man Raggio, afterwards ran the principal butcher shop in San Juan, and also one in Hollister, some time later.  He was one of San Benito county's supervisors for a period, and an honorable and courteous gentleman.  He was one of California's oldest pioneers, coming to this state from Mexico when but a boy, and he worked long and laboriously in Mexico before coming to San Juan.</p><P>I forget the year in which the following incident occurred but I remember that at one time a Mexican, who had come to Raggio's saloon drunk, ran amuck.</p><P>The Mexican, crazy drunk, wanted to shoot somebody and with a pistol in hand emerged from the saloon announcing his determination.  Everyone in sight disappeared.  He proceeded along the street to the corner of Third Street.  There, coming around the corner he met a Mexican, Manuel Butron, who used to have epileptic fits.  The drunk-crazed Mexican fired point-blank at Manuel, shooting him squarely through the center of the breast.  A crowd of citizens gathered and took the shooter into custody.  Manuel laid on the ground, and with every breath he took the blood spurted in the air, coupled with the escaping air from his lungs.</p><P>'Twas a pitiful sight!  Everyone present said, "Adios, Manuel!" and in their minds as there being no hope of Manuel's recovering, they concluded to finish up the business speedily, Accordingly, they announced that they would take the Mexican down to the willow tree on "The Alameda" and hang him.</p><P>In accordance with the request of the Mexican who, to a certain extent, had come to his senses, and wanted a priest, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:mob sent up to the mission and brought a priest down.  After the priest had interviewed the man, the crowd took him down to "The Alameda" and hanged him.</p><P>But here is a strange quip of fortune--Manuel Butron not only recovered from the wound but never had any fits after that.  The man who was hanged should really have received compensation for his surgical operation instead having to "shuffle off his mortal coil."  The hanging of that man, after Manuel got well, rested heavily on the consciences of some of the men that so promptly executed summary justice on the poor devil.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The various dwellings on San Juan streets in</HI>
133.sgm: 1855-1870, <HI REND="italics">and who occupied them--John Bigley, one of the mission's early teamsters and a man highly respected</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>THE PLACE next to Raggio's dwelling was a small adobe occupied by Mrs. Jesus Bernal, who kept therein a little restaurant and accommodated a few lodgers.  The rest of the property along the street for a quarter of a block contained a number of small buildings which were owned by Felipe Gardella.</p><P>I remember Felipe Gardella well.  He was the first man I saw in San Juan on that memorable trip that my parents took from Calaveras County as far as the Salinas River.  Reaching San Juan we halted for a short time and I, peering out of the covered wagon, saw Gardella seated by the roadside with a little drum of coffee which he was parching over a small fire.  The coffee inside of his drum was slowly revolved by a handle which Gardella turned.  He had a little store where he sold knicknacks, notions, tobaccos, etc.  Hanging inside of the door of his store was a green parrot, a bird that greatly attracted my curiosity.  I also remember that green parrot well in after years, for he and I became the best of friends, and when he saw me passing the store, either going or coming, he would whistle and call, "Here, Ikey! Here, Ikey!"</p><P>In the early '70's, all along that west side of Third Street was burned down in a disastrous fire.  The fire stopped this side of the building now occupied by Lavagnino's store.</p><P>The brick building the Abbe Company now occupy was built by Gardella before the fire and occupied by Dan Harris, after the fire, until he moved from San Juan.  The building that we have previously referred to in this narrative as having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:been occupied by Mr. Filoucheau was subsequently taken over by the Bowie brothers who bought Filoucheau's stock and opened up a business there.  Afterwards they moved to the brick building erected by Gardella and took over Sam Harris' stock contained therein.</p><P>After Gardella's death, Mrs. Gardella sold the brick building to the Abbe family, the Bowies built a building across the street, moved their stock over there and conducted a general merchandise business therein until they died.</p><P>Retracing our steps across the east side of Third Street, we find at the corner of Mariposa Street and Third Street, a building occupied by Leon Bullier, a barber.  I will say right here that in speaking of many of these buildings such as Bullier's, they were not adobe buildings.  They were a sort of stucco affair, i.e., uprights were run up, say two stories high, and mud blocks were inserted between them.  Then there was an outside and inside coating for all this mud and the same was whitewashed and when nicely fixed up was very inviting, having all the characteristics and appearance of an adobe building.</p><P>Bullier's place was afterwards occupied by Breitbarth's Shoe Store.</p><P>Next to the Bullier building was a saloon, run at different times, by various Mexicans.  At one time one of the members of the Roza family ran it.  Next door there was a bakery, conducted by a Frenchman; then a small building which was occupied by old man Bowie.</p><P>The Bowie family were Scotch-Canadians, coming from Canada.  This building occupied by old man Bowie was built for him by my father and John Miller, of Monterey.  The prevailing wage in those days was $2.00 and $2.50 per day, of ten hours.  It was a frame structure and the business that Mr. Bowie engaged in was a bakery.  At the time that old man Bowie was conducting this store, the rest of his family, his sons and daughters, had not yet arrived at San Juan.  Quite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:a while after the old couple settled there, the sons and daughters joined their parents.</p><P>Joe Bowie, one of the sons, was an expert accountant and for a time worked at his calling at San Jose and in the New Almaden quicksilver mines where he was also a Deputy Sheriff of Santa Clara County.</p><P>There were four daughters in the Bowie family.  The eldest of the quartette was a very finely educated woman who not only taught French and music but also taught school at San Juan for a long time.  I went to school to her, and we used to call her, "Aunt Eliza."  Another daughter married "Jim" Sargent; the third married Wesley Smith and the other daughter married a man by the name of Hall.  One of the Wesley Smith's daughters married Dr. Thos. Flint's son, Richard.</p><P>Adjoining the Bowie Bakery there was a vacant lot, after which came a building conducted as a bowling alley by James Miller.  Next to this bowling alley was a building in which a butcher shop was conducted by Bill Byrd.</p><P>Bill Byrd afterwards moved to the Pajaro Valley and conducted a saloon on the "Lovering Corner" long before Second Street was put through from Rodriguez Street to Main Street.  At the time that Bill conducted that saloon in Watsonville there was only a small alley that allowed ingress and egress between Main and Rodriguez Streets.  Bill Byrd had a brother named James Byrd who also lived in the Pajaro Valley.</p><P>These were all the buildings at that time (1856) on that block, to the corner of Polk Street in San Juan.</p><P>In the next block on the corner of Third and Polk Streets there was a building occupied by James McMahon's General Merchandise Store.  McMahon's building was erected after we settled in San Juan.  Previous to its erection, McMahon had been conducting a business in partnership with a man by the name of Griffin, if I remember correctly, somewhere on Second Street.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>After the partnership was dissolved, McMahon engaged my father and Miller to build not only the above store for him but a residence for his family on Second and Polk Streets.  These buildings were erected in 1857.</p><P>On the corner of Third Street and Mokelumne Street, there was a residence occupied by the Bowie family.</p><P>Across Mokelumne Street, from Mokelumne Street to San Jose Street, was a block on Third Street occupied by the Fred Kemp residence.  Before the Kemp family bought that place it was occupied by the Hollenbeck family.  This building was erected in the early days of San Juan.</p><P>In 1856 the next block was vacant, but afterwards a livery stable was built on it by T. J. McKnight.  He also built a residence on it, which residence is now occupied by Mark Regan.  McKnight sold the property to Clarence Bowman who, in turn, sold it to Mark Regan.</p><P>Crossing San Jose Street we come to the block on Third Street, between San Jose and Tuolumne Streets.  The first house on this block was that occupied by Tom Clark whose wife was one of the Donner party.  Clark subsequently sold the place to a man by the name of Reynolds, who was in the sheep business.</p><P>The first house that I remember being on Third Street, between Tuolumne and Monterey Streets, was that of Dr. Simmons.</p><P>The block between Monterey and Church streets and Second and Third Streets was owned by John Birmingham, a veteran of the Mexican war and afterwards justice of the peace.  Mr. Birmingham was a first-class carpenter.  On this tract of land he afterwards built a two-story house.  Birmingham had a son by the name of Alec who met with an untimely death owing to an accidental pistol shot, whilst he and "CC" Zanetta were returning from a business trip to Hollister.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>On North Street, between Second and Third Streets, was a piece of land that was, at this time, owned and occupied by a Mexican.  This Mexican afterwards sold this piece of land to Chas. Sherwood, my son-in-law's father.</p><P>The Sherwood family occupied the place for years and still own the property.  Mr. and Mrs. Sherwood died within one day of each other, and were buried on the same day.</p><P>Ernie, or as he is familiarly known in Watsonville, "Shorty" Sherwood (my son-in-law) has been for years a trusted employee of the Chas. Ford Company.  He is a popular member of the Elks, the Eagles, and Native Sons.</p><P>Retracing our steps to the west side of Third Street and in taking up the homes along that thoroughfare from the Bowie residence, we first come to an old, very old, frame structure that from time to time had different occupants, Americans, Mexicans and other nationalities.</p><P>On the same side, across Mokelumne Street on the next block between Mokelumne and Polk Streets, was the residence of Daniel Harris, a merchant.</p><P>In the same block, further on, was the residence of Refugio Cheverria, a vaquero widely known throughout that section; and as square and honest a man as ever lived.  In after years he worked for a long time for the Flint, Bixby Co.</p><P>In the next block there was another small dwelling that was occupied by Bob Rowls, one of the overland stage drivers.</p><P>Adjoining the Rowls home, on Third Street, was a residence occupied by Madame Pilar, an old Spanish mid-wife.</p><P>The next house on that same block was occupied by Jas. Stanley, a harness maker.</p><P>In the next block, between Monterey and Tuolumne Streets, and Third and Fourth Streets, there was only one house.  This house was occupied by Caleb Brummett, father of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:Harwell Brummett, the newspaper editor, who, on the court-house steps, at Hollister, years afterwards, was killed by Carlton, a rival editor.</p><P>I do not remember who lived on the next block, but it was subsequently purchased by Fielding Hodges who still lives there.</p><P>The next block, further on, only contained one residence.  It was occupied by the Hodges family, that is, Fielding Hodges' parents.  It was afterward occupied by Frank Black and family early settlers of San Juan.</p><P>Taking in Fourth Street, at the corner of Monterey and Fourth streets the Chalmer's place was located.  The Chalmer's holding was a large piece of land known as lot 8 on the official map.  George Chalmer's residence was built some distance from Fourth Street, well onto the hill,  This structure was burned down but was rebuilt.</p><P>Adjoining the Chalmer's place, on the west side of Fourth Street, was the Hall place.</p><P>Next to the Hall place, on the same side of Fourth Street, came the Bowman place.</p><P>Adjacent to the Bowman place came the old adobe residence of Borondo, and then there were several other adobe buildings, some of which were said to be occupied at various times, in the upper stories, by bandits, both Mexican and American, who, hid therein, slept by day, and prowled around during the night.</p><P>The blocks fronting on the east side of Fourth Street were vacant.</p><P>Coming into town from the north, the first thoroughfare the traveler traversed was First Street.  First Street is the street that the present school is on.  It extended from away out to the limits of the city, on what might be called the highway, and ran from the north towards the north end of the old mission building, where it stopped.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<illus entity="a133-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Door leading from Robe Room to Sacristy, San Juan Mission</p></CAPTION>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Road Supervisors had little money to do road-work with--Hodgdon who had the fire bell placed on his grave--The killing of Andrew Barker</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>IT WILL BE remembered that at that time there was imposed upon all citizens a two dollar school poll tax and a road poll tax.  The citizens could get out of paying cash on the road poll tax by working on the roads.  Accordingly, one can well imagine what sort of work and how much work could be gotten out of a party of citizens whiling away their time on the roads to save the two dollar poll tax. The wage, in those days, was two dollars per day.  There was very little road money to be secured and the roads were extremely bad; muddy in winter, mud so thick and heavy that you could not get through it with the team; and, in the summer, two or three inches of stifling dust.</p><P>Mr. Abbe, as the road supervisor, was the recipient of many kicks and complaints regarding the condition of the roads.  He always met these growls with patience, and did the best he could on the roads with the meager pittance allowed him by the county.  I doubt that Mr. Abbe had enough money at one time to properly condition a single mile of road.</p><P>He had four sons: Frank, who after his graduation from school, taught school in San Juan.  (This son possesses the distinction of being the only school-teacher in the U.S.A., who graduated, a full-fledged printer, in two weeks from the weekly Free Lance office, in Hollister, when it was conducted by W. B. Winn.  Frank says his rapidity in learning the printing trade was due to his splendid foreman, one Jas. G. Piratsky).</p><P>George, Charles and Fred Abbe were Andrew Abbe's other sons.  Charles lives somewhere on the San Benito river on his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:ranch, and Frank, George and Fred now constitute the Abbe firm of San Juan, which conducts one of the largest general merchandise stores in San Benito county.  Frank Abbe founded the Abbe Company after he retired from teaching school.</p><P>Andrew Abbe had several daughters.  One of these daughters married E. A. Pierce who had settled in the San Juan Canyon, and had a beautiful home there.  The youngest daughter married the son of San Juan's pioneer hotel man, Angelo Zanetta.</p><P>Next to the Abbe home, on the left-hand side of First Street, was the home of Vick McGarvey who, for many years, was assessor of Monterey county.  McGarvey had quite an extended tract of land well down the hill.</p><P>Let me remark right here that San Juan occupies the unique position of being on an elevation from which water runs down on all sides.  You can't call it a hill on which the town is located.  It seems to me to be rather a throw-off from the surrounding hills in order to make one of the prettiest sites imaginable for a town.</p><P>After Mr. McGarvey sold his place it was occupied by Chas. Goodrich, Greg Sanchez and others.  In 1868 part of the land was bought for school purposes.</p><P>Next to the McGarvey home, part of which was sold, for school purposes, there was a large vacant place which was also eventually acquired by the school district.  This property, in the early days, was built on by W. G. Hubbard.  The place was afterwards occupied by Arthur Graham, who married Fanny Canfield.  Mr. Graham, later, ran a butcher shop in San Juan.  He was also a member of the San Juan fire department, and, at one time, ran the Plaza Hotel.  Mr. and Mrs. Graham died in their San Juan home within a day of each other, both dying from typhoid pneumonia.</p><P>Next to the Graham home was the home of Sam Clark.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Somewhere along that side of the street there lived, at one time, Bill Burnett, afterwards known as the only sheriff of San Benito county that ever made money out of the office.</p><P>I think Morris Sullivan also lived in one of the houses along that side of the street.</p><P>Well back from First Street on the left hand side, lived Jas. Emmons.  There was an old building attached to Emmons' place, it was there before my family moved to San Juan and whilst it was occupied by many people and families I cannot now recall their names.</p><P>Next to Emmons' place came the residence of Judge Jas. F. Breen, who served several years as superior judge of San Benito county.  Judge Breen's home on this tract was a very large, commodious and handsome structure.  It was built for him by Con Hickey, when Judge Breen married Jas. McMahon's daughter Kate.</p><P>Judge Breen owned, down in the river bottom, some two hundred acres of land which eventually he set out to pears.</p><P>After the Breen's property there was no further habitation and First Street terminated at a fence attached to the corner of the mission building.</p><P>Retracing our steps across First Street, after the Bigley home, coming towards town, there was a vacant lot.  Eventually this lot was built on by Chas. Mitchell, a brother-in-law of Dr. Thomas Flint.</p><P>On the block between First, Second, North and Church Streets there was a building that was erected by John Hunt, somewhere around 1858-1859.</p><P>Hunt was a blacksmith and had a shop there, but he did not stay in San Juan long.</p><P>Mrs. Nidever, a widow, occupied the Hunt place for a long time afterwards.</p><P>There were no more buildings on the right hand side of First Street up to its termination against the mission building.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>We now take up Second Street from its beginning.  North, on the west side of Second Street, between North and Church Streets, there was a building occupied by Major McMichael.  It was built there somewhere along 1859-60.  Mr. McMichael, who purchased the ranch on the road north of town, was a cattle man who had come over to the mission town from the San Joaquin Valley.  After living on his ranch for awhile he moved into town and built this home.  His wife is still alive and is living on this same place with her daughter, Annie.</p><P>Miss McMichael is postmistress of San Juan, having been appointed to that office during the administration of Cleveland, and notwithstanding the changes of presidents no one has ever attempted to displace her.  At one time, during a Republican administration, a San Juanite intimated that he would like to be appointed to the office, but Hon. Thos. Flint, Jr., who at that time was one of the leading Republicans in the State, emphatically said "no" to such a proposition, and Miss McMichael remained undisturbed.  She still holds the office, giving excellent service, and she is universally beloved.</p><P>On the west side of Second Street, on the corner of Church Street there was a church building in the later '50's.  This church belonged to the Methodist Church South.</p><P>On the east side of Second Street, on the corner of Monterey Street was a residence, in the early '50's, which was occupied by a family by the name of Moore.  This was in 1855 or 1856.</p><P>On the same side of Second Street, on the southeast corner of Tuolumne and Second Streets, there was a residence occupied by W. E. Lovett.</p><P>Continuing further on the same side of Second Street on the southeast corner of Jefferson and Second Streets, there was a residence occupied by the Edmondson family.  Mr. Edmondson was a cattle man who settled there but did not remain in San Juan long.  He sold this property afterwards to W. G. Hubbard, a blacksmith.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Edmondson owned the east half of the block, and on the west half of the same block there resided John Silk and Roscoe Hodgdon.  The latter conducted a carpenter shop in San Juan.</p><P>Mr. Hodgdon was a member of the fire department.  The fire department at one time bought a bell and this bell was left on the front porch of Mr. Hodgdon's residence.  Unfortunately Hodgdon used to go on "periodicals" and one night coming home late, in a spirit of exhiliration, he struck the bell with a hand-axe and the impact broke the bell.  The firemen were justly indignant, and at a called meeting it was moved and carried that Mr. Hodgdon pay for the bell.</p><P>Hodgdon did so and announced that as the bell was his he wanted it placed at the head of his grave.  At his burial the firemen placed the coffin on the fire truck and with a band of music playing a burial dirge proceeded to the cemetery.  So, if any of my readers desire to view the last resting place of Roscoe Hodgdon they can find it easily by noting the bell at the head of a certain grave in the cemetery on the road to "The Rocks," outside of San Juan.</p><P>Between Jefferson and San Jose Streets, on the west side of Second Street, there formerly was an old barn.  The east side of this block was occupied by Hubbard's blacksmith shop.  Hubbard's blacksmith shop was quite an institution in those days.  I remember, it had, at one time, three fires running, day after day.  It also comprised a carriage making and paint shop.</p><P>The paint shop was run by Jack Nagel, who was hired by Hubbard.  Nagel was a very fine artist, or, I should say, mechanic, in his line.  He was afterwards employed by the Overland Stage Company to keep its stages freshly painted and neat looking.</p><P>All iron work was forged by hand and dressed in a vise with files, being fashioned for fine buggies, spring wagons and freight wagons.  Horseshoes were also forged.  The blacksmith would cut up a piece of iron, turn it into a shoe on the anvil, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:cut a groove in it and punch the nail holes in it.  Nails were bought then but they all had to be pointed by hand.  Usually two men, or helpers as they were called, assisted with sledge hammers in the shaping.</p><P>It was in front of this shop, on Second Street, that the old plaza cannon was blown up.</p><P>One of Hubbard's employes, a blacksmith, had an argument the night before with a companion, and the argument took a turn involving the question of whether or not the old cannon could be "busted."  Hubbard's employe claimed it could, and so the next morning early (about five o'clock) he put in an extra heavy charge and plugged the cannon with sand.  After getting the cannon properly prepared for the "bust-up," the man took a long stick and attaching his lighted cigar to the end of it, stood off some distance and touched the glowing end of the cigar to the vent hole.  The man remembered no more for some time for the concussion of the cannon knocked him northeast by southwest, and it was about twenty minutes before he came to and inquired, "Where was I?"  No one could answer the question.</p><P>A piece of this cannon went through the roof of the residence of Jas. McMahon, over two blocks away, tearing a big hole in the roof.  Pieces of the cannon were picked up all over town, in fact, it was smashed to smithereens.  Strange to relate, however, the man was uninjured.</p><P>After that we had to use anvils for our celebrations--the old cannon was a thing of the past.</p><P>On the opposite side of Second Street, on the corner of Second and San Jose Streets, John Geaster built the National Hotel in 1858.  It was a three-story building.  The upper story, being drawn in closer than the main building, made the top story somewhat narrower.  For that reason it was made into a hall.  This hall was used as a lodge room for Texas Lodge, F. &amp; A.M.  The reason the San Juan Bautista Masons <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Barker went to San Francisco and consulted a medium.  The soothsayer told him the money was taken by a light-haired man who lived within sight of his home.  Vic McGarvey lived on First Street on rather high ground, and having light hair, answered the description given by the medium.  When Barker returned he accused McGarvey of taking his money.  He swore he would kill McGarvey, on sight, the next time that they met.  Barker was always armed with a pistol and bowie knife.  He had a violent temper, and was very quarrelsome at all times, especially if under the influence of liquor.  He was a civil engineer.</p><P>McGarvey, instead of going home to get a pistol, went to Monsieur Durin, a nearby French gunsmith, and borrowed a shotgun and had Durin load the weapon with powder and buckshot, telling the gunsmith he desired the loan of the gun to kill some wild animals.  Putting the gun on his shoulder he went straight to Kemp's saloon.  As he entered he saw Barker opposite the door, seated in a chair apparently reading a newspaper, but in reality looking over its top, watching the door.</p><P>McGarvey said, "I am armed!  Defend yourself!"</p><P>As Barker arose, McGarvey shot him, the buckshot penetrating Barker's breast, when Barker, after receiving the shot, partially turned around, McGarvey let him have the other loaded barrel of the gun in the back.  Barker was killed instantly.</p><P>McGarvey was tried for the killing and was acquitted.</p><P>Sometime afterwards there was a story current to the effect that it was Barker's wife that dug up the money and hid it in another place, fearing that Barker's cache might be discovered by some thief.  When Barker discovered his loss and got into such a rage over it, fearing that he would kill her, his wife remained silent.  I cannot vouch for the authenticity of this story.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Fred Kemp was a very fine man.  He was quiet and unassuming, and treated everyone alike.  His saloon was more like a club than a barroom.  All of the best men in the district would repair there to enjoy an evening or talk over business together.  It did not matter who they were, from governor to constable or commanding officer to low private, at some time or another they would all be found at Kemp's saloon.  Farmers would congregate to talk about their crops; cattle and sheep men always were to be found there discussing their flocks and prospects.  There was never any rowdyism allowed about the place.  Kemp never encouraged the buying of liquor and was never known to sit in on a game of cards.  He always had a kind word for everyone.  His hospitality was known far and wide.  A staunch Democrat, he never talked politics, and accordingly Republicans and Democrats, alike, would make his saloon their headquarters.  No one could ever say that Fred Kemp got a nickel dishonestly.</p><P>He lived in the same block on which his saloon was located.  His store-house was always well filled, as he bought goods in San Francisco, wholesale.</p><P>A stranger arriving in town and inquiring for certain parties would be immediately told to "go down to Fred Kemp's saloon and ask Fred about them.  He will tell you where they are to be found!"</p><P>His wife is still alive and is still living in the old home with her son, Fred, who is now county supervisor of the San Juan district.  Fred has built many dwellings on the block and is a very enterprising young man.</p><P>On the east side of Second Street, across from Kemp's on the corner of San Jose and Second Street, was the Church building bought by Leon Bullier and occupied by him as a dwelling and barber shop.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Some noted characters that lived in San Juan in the early days--Luis Chavez, the bandit--The great rainfall in</HI>
133.sgm: 1862-- <HI REND="italics">The San Juan Canyon</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>NEXT TO this place, east, on Second Street, was Victor Jerbet's place.  Mr. Jerbet had a small vineyard of three or four acres and made both red and white wine.  He had a small saloon in the front of his place where he retailed the products of his vineyard.</p><P>Then came the mission church property which extended up to the plaza.  The church owned seventeen acres which embraced not only the land on which the church was located, but eleven or twelve acres of an orchard on the river bench below.</p><P>On the west side of Second street, between Mokelumne and Polk Streets, on the corner of Polk and Second Streets, was located the residence of Jas. McMahon.</p><P>The Masonic building, on the corner of Mokelumne and Second Streets, was erected years later.</p><P>On the west side of Second street, between Mariposa and Polk streets, was the home of the Carreagas, a noted Spanish family in San Juan's early days.</p><P>On the corner of Second and Mariposa streets there was erected a wooden building in which was conducted a drug store, stationery store, postoffice, express office and a telegraph office--they were all combined in the one business enterprise.  The store was conducted by Thos. Magner, who married into the Carreaga family.  The store, was run by different ones in the same line of endeavor one of whom was R.H. Brotherton.  "Bob," as he was familiarly known, was one of the finest looking men I ever saw.  In those days there was no such title <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:even the late Hon. M.T. Dooling, judge of the federal court, and N.C. Briggs, another leading Hollister attorney, after cogitating over a certain law point decided to go to "Bob" Brotherton and ask him about it.</p><P>Poor "Bob," his last days were truly pitiful, as a disease that afflicted him made him, indeed, a miserable object.  Many regrets were expressed at his death, for everyone who knew him admired his brilliancy and learning.</p><P>Adjoining this drug store, on the west on Second street, was a residence occupied by Pedro Carlos.  Carlos was the son-in-law of Manuel Larios.  He was a barber and had a shop in the same building in which he resided.  He, at one time, owned a home on an elevation on the road to Sargent station known as the McKee place.  It is still in the possession of some of the McKee heirs.</p><P>Pedro Carlos will go down into history as the inventor of the card game "pedro."  He, in his leisure moments, would derive great pleasure from card playing and finally he evolved the game of pedro, which game is now played throughout the United States.  But few people realize that pedro was invented in San Juan.</p><P>Another game popular in early days, in San Juan, was pitch seven up.  Carlos enlarged this game by adding the five spot of trumps.</p><P>On Mariposa street the thoroughfare runs down alongside of the Plaza Hotel and between Second and Third Streets was a two-story residence building owned by the Carreagas.</p><P>The two Carreaga brothers, Juan and Ramon, owned, at one time, six-hundred acres across the San Benito river between the Sanchez grant and the San Justo grant.  This land is now owned by the heirs of Patrick Breen.</p><P>One of the Carreaga boys married a daughter of Buenaventura, the latter was a Frenchman and was married to a Borondo.  He came to San Juan in the early days, was a cobbler by trade, and lived on Fourth street on a place embracing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:four or five acres, which extended along Washington street.  He had a small vineyard on this place.</p><P>After the Carreaga boys, Juan and Ramon, disposed of their property in and near San Juan, they moved to Santa Maria and at that place became very wealthy; oil eventually being discovered on the lands that they owned there.</p><P>We have remarked, heretofore, that Andrew Abbe had a great deal to do with looking after the roads and streets in that district.  While engaged in leveling off Second street his plow turned up forty or fifty dollars in old Mexican coins.  Some of them dating back to 1600.  They were all sold at a big premium as they were valuable as keepsakes and souvenirs.</p><P>This is all that I remember of the buildings that were scattered here and there in the early days, throughout what is known as San Juan Bautista Mission.</p><P>At this point it occurs to me to mention some of the noted characters that I remember in those early days.  One was a Mexican by the name of Morales.  He was a splendid musician and excelled on the violin; with the guitar to accompany him he furnished all the dance music for the fiestas and dances in that section.  He was a general favorite with everybody.  No one could surpass the dance music that he gave.  Morales' trade was the manufacture of spurs and bridle-bits, and in that line he had no rival.  He always turned out first-class work.  He was an expert at inlaying spurs and bridle-bits with silver.</p><P>Another character that I remember was Ramon Cheverria, a bronco buster.  There was no horse that was too wild for Ramon to tackle.  He was the one always selected to ride the wild bull at the annual June 24th fiesta, each year.  He became a first-class billiardist and it took an expert handler of a billiard cue to defeat him.</p><P>Recollection brings back to me another character whom I forgot to mention in going along Third Street in my "ramblings."  This was Mondregon, a Spaniard, who kept a store on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:the east side of Third Street near Bowie's bakery.  He was a saddle-maker and could make, out of leather, any article required by horsemen.  In his line, he too, was an expert, and as such was known far and wide throughout the state.  He carried a stock of Mexican saddles, bridles, lariats and quirts.</p><P>Let me interject right here that Byrd Harris was the first child born in San Juan, of American parents.  This is in response to a query made some time ago.</p><P>At the end of "The Alameda," going toward home, on the right, there was, then, a wooden building built of split redwood in 1855.  This building and land was afterwards acquired by Sylvester Wilcox.  After buying this building Wilcox repaired it and lived there with his wife, until they both died.  Part of the old building may be seen there yet.  They left the property to their son and daughter, Joseph and Adi Wilcox, who still occupy the place.</p><P>Opposite this holding, across the road, was another small building, similarly constructed, occupied by a Frenchman whose name I cannot remember.  This Frenchman had a vegetable garden there.</p><P>At the forks of the present road, going to Hollister and Salinas there lived, in a small house, Rafael Hernandez and his wife.  Mrs. Hernandez was an Albino, white-haired and near-sighted.  She was a passionate lover of flowers and had the prettiest flower garden in that section.  The place was enclosed by a high picket fence.  I longingly looked at these flowers, many a time, going and coming from school, but looks availed me nothing, for Mrs. Hernandez guarded her floral treasures with vigilance.  She never gave me a single flower although I longed so much for them.  Rafael Hernandez was a vaquero of the old school, and in after years was a rider for the Flint, Bixby Co., on the range.</p><P>Opposite the Hernandez place, in a low crudely constructed habitation, dwelt the Chavez family.  One of Chavez' sons <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:became the notorious Chavez, a member of the Vasquez robber band, and was killed, towards the close of Vasquez' career, in southern California.</p><P>At the turn, the road ran across the creek, which was parallel to the present Hollister place.  The water from this creek came from the San Juan canyon, and in the year 1862 this creek overflowed.  This overflow deposited an immense number of willow plants which afterwards caused my father much labor and expense to grub out.  The creek ran up to the main road that went directly east.</p><P>On the road, leading up to the canyon, there was a large two-story adobe house.  Part of this building had been used as an old Spanish mill, the mill stones are there yet.  I do not remember who built it or occupied it first, but at the time that I am talking about (1855-1860) this adobe was occupied by Lorenzo Twitchell, son of Joshua Twitchell, the man from whom my father bought our place.</p><P>On the road towards my father's place, on the west side, there was a building right next to the road occupied by William Stingley.  Stingley, in partnership with my father, bought that place from Joshua Twitchell, great-grandfather of Doctor A. R. Lawn, the chiropractor, now practicing his profession in Watsonville.</p><P>Afterwards my father and Stingley divided the land--my father taking the land on the east of the line, one hundred and fifty-five acres, and Stingley took the western portion.  Subsequently, in some sort of a trade, Joshua Twitchell acquired the Stingley property and lived there for years.</p><P>In later years Stingley was killed by being struck by a redwood tree, whilst working under the foremanship of the late ex-supervisor Jas. A. Linscott, of Santa Cruz county, at the Game-Cock lumber camp, above Corralitos.</p><P>As years passed the various bends in the road were straightened out and the road was fixed up so as to connect with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:San Juan canyon road.  There was no road to Monterey from this direction.  This road, that I have just described in its entirety, is the road that I traversed going to school.</p><P>We will now take in the San Juan canyon road.  Let me here remark that the San Juan canyon, in the early days, was one of the most picturesque spots in that section, and today it is worth anyone's time to visit this truly sylvan retreat, although, to a large extent, its beauty has been somewhat marred by the development made in the canyon by the San Juan Cement Company.</p><P>Proceeding up the canyon, from San Juan, the first house that you encountered was a large adobe, now gone.  It has utterly disappeared and yet, at that time, it was one of the landmarks in that vicinity.  Who erected this adobe dwelling I do not know, it looked to me as though the land had been taken up as government land, the building erected and then both building and claim were abandoned.  However, when I knew it, this residence was occupied by Captain Taylor, father of Bartlett Taylor, and his wife.  The Bartlett Taylor, whom in another part of this narrative I chronicled as being shot in Louis Raggio's saloon.</p><P>The next house, going up the canyon, was occupied by the family of William Harris, the first school teacher in San Juan.  I was, for awhile, one of Mr. Harris' pupils.  He died at Stockton several years later.</p><P>Close to William Harris' residence was another home occupied by Mr. Harris' father and mother.  The Harris family were very fine people.</p><P>Proceeding on, the next place one would come to was the home of a man by the name of Quinn.  Old residents in those days used to call the place he occupied, Quinn canyon.</p><P>Beyond the Quinn home there was a place occupied by some cattle men, I have forgotten their names, but ultimately their holdings were acquired by Jasper Twitchell, son of old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Near the old adobe there was, in the early days, a tunnel that ran into the Gabilan range.  The tunnel was not run in very far and its site has long since been obliterated.  The purpose for which this tunnel was driven into the mountain could never be ascertained.</p><P>In those days horse stealing was a common offense.  The Indians had no scruples about taking someone's horses, consequently, horse owners, in those days, built large corrals made of adobe, surrounded by a ten or twelve foot wall, in order to keep the thieving marauders out.  In this old adobe that I have previously described there was, at the time I am speaking of, the remains of an immense stockade of this description behind the structure.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<illus entity="a133-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Panel Door, hand carved, leading to Balcony of Cloister in San Juan Mission</p></CAPTION>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The mysterious killing of man named Kelly, near Gilroy--Vasquez, the bandit, comes to the front--The tragedy at Paicines--Snyder's account of the raid</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>RIGHT HERE recollection brings back to me a strange and mysterious killing that occurred near Gilroy.  This occurred in 1870.  A woman by the name of Mrs. Page came, via stage, from Watsonville to Gilroy.  On arriving at the latter place she hired a horse and buggy and started toward San Juan, passing the Miller-Bloomfield ranch, where an employe named Kelly was employed.  She asked Kelly to take a ride with her and he accepted.  There was a cluster of willows on the side of the road between Miller's home and the Sargent place.  The woman invited Kelly to take a walk with her, at this point, and about two hundred yards from the road she drew a pistol and shot him through his head, and also through his heart, killing him instantly.  She left him lying there and rode back to Gilroy and gave herself up to the authorities.  At the preliminary examination Mrs. Page testified that the reason that she killed Kelly was that he had slandered her.  She wanted him to retract the slander, he refused, and she killed him.</p><P>The outcome of this case I do not remember but it was a big sensation in this section of the state for a long time on account of the woman having announced her destination as San Juan, when she hired the buggy.  All of San Juan turned out, en masse, to see if they knew her.  But she was never identified.</p><P>At this point I wish to digress and take up the career of one of California's celebrated bandits, who certainly deserves more than a passing notice.  I allude to Tiburcio Vasquez, who, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>"Vasquez then remarked, `Boys, I am sorry to treat you this way!'  But if I should try to make my living by honest work and the people should find out who I am, they would hang me inside of a week!  The only way I have to make a living is robbing other people, and, as long as they have money, I am going to have my share!'  He also told me that he would spare my life as I had submitted.  They then commenced to pilfer the store and our pockets.</p><P>"About this time I heard Mr. Haley, who drove a four-horse team, calling my name.  I dared not answer.  The bandits hit him on the head with a six-shooter, took him off the wagon and tied him to the front wheel.  They took all the money he had and left him in that condition.  He worked himself loose but he still stood stooped over that way for fear that they would find he was untied.</p><P>"By this time Mr. Connolly and his wife and boy came along.  They were stopped and Mr. Connolly was brought near the store and tied, then laid on the ground.  Mrs. Connolly screamed at the top of her voice and they threatened to shoot her as they were afraid she would alarm the neighbors.  Mrs. Snyder came out and took her by the hand and led her into the house telling her to be quiet and maybe their lives would be  spared.  The Connolly boy crawled across the road on his hands and knees, climbed a fence and crossed the river to a neighbor.</p><P>"The hostler at the barn was told to lie down, but not knowing what it meant laughed.  They hit him on the head with a gun, tied him up and took him behind the barn.</p><P>"George Redford of Gilroy, with a four-horse team, drove up and started to unhitch his team.  They ordered him to lie down.  He was hard of hearing and ran once around his wagon and then into the stable where they shot him through the heart.</p><P>"A Frenchaman who had stopped here with a band of sheep for the night knew them and they knew him.  While <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:nearing the barn they shot at him, tearing his upper teeth out.  He jumped the fence into an adjoining field and then ran back on the store porch, they after him.  As he was running onto the porch they shot him through the breast.  I heard him fall and struggle in death.</p><P>"About this time I heard another shot in front of the hotel.  Leland Davidson, proprietor of the hotel, who was sick and was not aware of what was going on, heard the shooting and arose from his chair, went to the front door and had opened it partly, when his wife ran in from the rear screaming to her husband to close the door as robbers were looting the store.  She reached up over his shoulder to close the door when Vasquez, appearing in front, fired through the door with his rifle.  The ball entered Davidson's heart.  He fell back in his wife's arms and expired.</p><P>"They then came in to where I was laying on the floor," continued Mr. Snyder, "took me to the room where my family was congregated.  They ordered Mrs. Snyder to hand over all the money in the house, and she promised them she would if they would spare my life.  They agreed to do this.</p><P>"After getting all the money there was in the house they took me back to the store.  On the way back Chavez and Vasquez held a conversation in Spanish.  Vasquez finally told Chavez, in English, that he was captain of this band and he was going to save my life.  Taking me to the store they laid me down on my side, my hands tied behind me, and covered me with a blanket, then they commenced packing their horses with goods from the store.</p><P>"From being tied so tightly my hands and arms were swollen and pained me terribly.  I made a special request for the third time to loosen the ropes.  Vasquez examined them, and saying they were too tight slackened them up which was a great relief.</p><P>"They helped themselves to sardines, oysters, cheese, and crackers and had a hearty supper.  I asked them to hurry as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:I was hungry.  They said that they were hungry, and would not go until they had finished their lunch.  When they had finished Vasquez told them to go to the stable and bring out all of the good horses which they would drive ahead of them.  They took eleven horses from the stable, two of them mine, and drove them off.  A blind horse they killed.</p><P>"I was robbed of about $600 worth of goods, two horses, $430 in coin, my watch and weapons.  They got, altogether, from the party, about $1200 in coin.</p><P>"When they left we got to our feet.  The Smith boy, not being tied, untied his father and Mr. Smith untied the rest of us.  I went, at once, to where my family were and they were safe.  I next went to Mr. Davison's room and found him dead and his wife crying.  Returning to the store, on the porch, lay the Frenchman, dead.  Going to the barn with a lantern I found George Redford lying dead on his face on a bale of hay in a stall.</p><P>"The next morning there was a crowd of neighbors there who had heard of the robbing and murders.</p><P>"During the shooting Mrs. Snyder and Mrs. Sam Moore had forethought enough to lie flat on the floor to escape the bullets that were flying around."</p><P>Thus ends the account of Vasquez' raid on Paicines as narrated by Mr. Snyder.  This murderous raid was the sensation of the entire country for weeks after it occurred and it incited renewed efforts to run down and capture Vasquez.</p><P>After this startling exploit Vasquez proceeded south and was finally captured in Los Angeles.  He was brought back, but San Benito county, not having the facilities for trying him, transferred him to the San Jose jail, and tried him in that county.</p><P>He was found guilty and hanged on March 19, 1875.</p><P>After Vasquez was hanged at San Jose his chief lieutenant, Chavez, fled to Mexico.  Information reached San Juan as to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:where Chavez was living.  Louis Raggio Jr. started for New Mexico found Chavez and in an attempt to arrest him, killed him.  The state had offered a reward of $2,500 for Chavez dead or alive and accordingly his head was severed from his body and brought back to San Juan as proof for the reward.  Raggio put in a claim for the reward and had a great deal of trouble over it.  I do not remember whether he got the reward or not.</p><P>In 1876 I had a band of sheep pastured in Pleasant Valley, in the Coalinga district, guarded by several sheepherders.  At the time there were a great many sheepmen in that district with their flocks.  One of these sheep owners was Geo. W. McConnell, afterwards, for years, the assessor of San Benito county.  Out of this meeting there grew an acquaintanceship and friendship between McConnell and myself that continued until the death of McConnell.</p><P>I suspect that George found his charming wife in the vicinity of the San Benito store.  Her maiden name was Kennedy and she lived, with her folks, on the upper San Benito.  George, driving his flocks to and from the Coalinga and the Panoche sections, formed an acquaintance with Annie Kennedy, and subsequently, they were married.  A most charming woman was Mrs. McConnell, who, with her husband, has long since passed away.</p><P>There were remnants of the Vasquez band traveling through that section yet.  They stole horses and cattle.  Eventually these men were wiped out.</p><P>Where my sheep were pastured in Pleasant Valley was in a direct line with the Cantua canyon, one of Joaquin Murietta's and Tubercio Vasquez' strongholds in their days of banditry.  There was another picturesque canyon between where I was located and the Cholame Valley.  In this canyon there was another band of desperadoes that had been affiliated with Murietta and Vasquez.</p><P>I was about three miles from my nearest neighbor.  Somehow or another I escaped.  I was never preyed upon by these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:desperadoes although they passed my location, coming and going.  I, however, always felt nervous over the situation as I did not know what a day or night might bring forth.</p><P>One morning, about six or seven o'clock, three of these desperadoes, in a gang, rode up on horseback to my place.  Each one of them had a rifle and a six-shooter and a bowie knife in his belt.  I was frightened, of course, but I assumed a calm demeanor and asked them to alight and have some breakfast with me.  In the corner of the cabin which I occupied, was my shot-gun, loaded with buckshot.  I made up my mind that I would use that shot-gun if anything untoward happened.  A long table that we used when the sheepherders came to shear the sheep stood between me and the robbers.  When I extended the invitation, they dismounted and came into the cabin.  Whilst I was cooking the breakfast I kept my eye on them as I did not know what minute trouble would ensue.</p><P>I gave the desperadoes a pretty fair breakfast inasmuch as I had my own cow and had plenty of butter and milk and the chickens that I had, furnished me with fresh eggs.  The three men ate heartily and, after thanking me for the meal, mounted their steeds and rode away.  A short distance from my place they robbed a sheepherder of all the money he had, also his grub.</p><P>The situation in that section was too dangerous, and I, with the rest of the sheepmen, in the valley, made up my mind to get out of there as soon as possible.  We all did.  We left there the ensuing season, which was a dry year.  Practically all the sheepmen lost their herds by starvation.</p><P>In 1877 one San Juan sheepman, Albion Baker, drove his herd of 8,000 sheep into the high Sierras where there was pasturage.  After skirmishing around through that region, he came out in the fall with 1,000 head.  He was heavily in debt and turned over the 1,000 head to his creditors.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">How San Juan folks lived in early days--How pioneer mothers helped their husbands--Grain was taken to grist mill at Corralitos--My venture into the sheep business</HI>
133.sgm:.</p><P>HOW we lived after we settled near San Juan deserves more than passing notice, and undoubtedly will prove of interest to those who live in the midst of comfort and plenty nowadays.</p><P>To begin with, we raised practically all that we ate.</p><P>In Gentry county, Missouri where, out in the country, we had lived in a log cabin (I was born in that log cabin), my mother, when preparing for the trip overland gathered together packages of different kinds of vegetable seeds--I often wondered, afterwards, where she got so many different varieties.  She also brought along medicinal plants, with which, after we settled in the land of "milk and honey," she doctored the children.</p><P>It would be well to interpolate right here that my father, with three other young fellows, had made the trip across the plains in 1850, and returned, via the Isthmus, to Missouri after a short stay in California in 1851.  After my father's return he prepared the family for the trip overland to the Golden State.</p><P>He informed my mother of the fertility of California's soil, its climate and many other items that guided her in making her selection of seeds, etc.  Therefore, during our first years in the San Juan Valley, we had all the vegetables we could eat and then some.</p><P>When my father bought the place, on the outskirts of San Juan, included in the purchase price were a few hogs, and so, with the pork occasionally, we had plenty of our own meat.  The tea, sugar, coffee, soap and candles we bought from the village merchants.  This was not for long, however, for before a year had passed my mother cut out the purchase of soap <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Benjamin Hames had built a grist mill at Corralitos, and we would take this grain over to him to be ground.  Hames, it might be well to remark here, was a man who had traveled extensively, had managed several enterprises in Chile and other parts of South America, and was a very well educated man.  My brother married his daughter in 1866.</p><P>It would take two days to execute this commission.  One day to transport the grain over to Corralitos and get it ground, and the next day to retrace our steps to San Juan.</p><P>This crop of wheat gave us our own flour which was a more superior article than the flour we got at the store, much of which came from Chile and cost us sixteen dollars a barrel of 196 pounds.</p><P>It was while making these trips that I first saw Watsonville.  I think it was in 1858 or 1859.</p><P>Col. Hollister had a flock of ewes pastured about half a mile from our place.  In lambing season the sheep were placed in a corral and at night the young would sometimes lose their mothers in which case the sheepherders would knock the lambs in the head if they could not ascertain to which mother they belonged.  I asked Col. Hollister to give me these motherless lambs and he said he would be glad to do so.  We had plenty of milk, as we had four or five cows--one of these cows having worked under the yoke whilst crossing the plains.  I had a pretty little saddle horse and the first morning that I struck out for the sheep pasture for any lambs that might be due me, I had two sacks attached to the horn of my saddle.  The first morning I got three lambs.  I cut holes in the sacks so that their heads could protrude.  I came home greatly elated at my good fortune.</p><P>Thereafter I made regular trips to the pasture before I went to school, generally getting over there about six o'clock.  My fortune varied.  Sometimes I would get only one and sometimes as high as four.  It was some work to get them to drink, but my good mother helped me.  Father, seeing our dilemma, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<illus entity="a133-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Arch and Door leading from Garden into Cloister, San Juan Mission</p></CAPTION>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">In early days the San Juan Valley section of Monterey county abounded with game of all kinds--My first firearms--We fared sumptuously on poultry and fruits</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>GAME in the San Juan Valley and surrounding districts was plentiful.  There were geese, ducks, quail by the millions, cotton-tail rabbits, and the hills were full of deer.  It was a hunter's paradise.</p><P>At about seven years of age I had learned to shoot--in fact, I became a very fair marksman, but my age and size precluded my carrying a heavy gun.  Accordingly, I had a forked stick which I would plant on the ground and resting the gun in the fork would take aim.  In due time, my father made me a gun for my own personal use.  My father, who was a jack-of-all-trades, had rigged up a gunsmith shop at our place, in which he would execute many repair jobs, not only for ourselves but for the neighbors.  My father got hold of a gun-barrel which he sawed off, and setting a stock to it suitable to my size, equipped me to my heart's delight.  He also fixed a shotgun for me the same way.  This was when I was about eight or nine years old.  In a short time I became an expert shot with a rifle and an excellent marksman with the shot-gun.  Game abounded on all sides, and I kept the larder well stocked with meat of all kinds.</p><P>We carefully conserved game, in those days.  There was no wanton slaughter.  We only shot what we actually needed; that was sufficient.</p><P>Shortly after arriving in San Juan, and getting settled there, my mother succeeded in obtaining, from the neighbors, hen, duck, turkey and guinea hen eggs.  These she set and by careful management it was not long before she had a well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:stocked poultry yard.  She never aimed to keep more than sixty or seventy of a kind as she sold them off as quickly as the quota was reached.  She had ducks, turkeys, chickens, geese and hens.  So as far as the larder was concerned we feasted on domestic fowls.</p><P>Outside of pears, which we could get from the mission orchards, no fruit was obtainable except dried apples, which were dried and packed in barrels.  They were a solid mass, packed in those barrels and I often wondered what would happen if someone would throw a couple of buckets of water in one of these containers.</p><P>Finding that a party had started a nursery in Santa Clara, my father went up there and succeeded in buying trees sufficient for a family orchard.  He planted these trees out on two acres.  The trees that my father bought were not true to name.  Some were very good however, and as soon as they bore we had fruit.  My mother was an expert cook, and made jams and preserves and together with wild blackberries, which were plentiful throughout that section, and which we gathered and brought home, we used to fare sumptuously in the matter of sweets.</p><P>Looking back over those years, reflection reveals the fact that even if we had plenty of fruit in those days we could not have preserved it as there were no jars or crocks or cans in which to put up the preserves.</p><P>About the year 1857-'58 there came a peddler of tinware from Watsonville, every two weeks.  The peddler's coming was a boon to us as it enabled us to secure from him the necessary receptacles wherewith to put up jellies and preserves.  He would take orders for the manufacture of tinware and then bring back the order on the next trip.  There was no galvanized or graniteware, everything was tin.  All articles were cut and soldered, even the tea and coffee pots and milk pans.</p><P>This peddler made for my mother a colander and a two gallon can with a screw top.  This can was used in my family <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:for forty years, which speaks well for the quality of the work that the man turned out.  This can, with the screw top, was used for churning purposes--we had no churn.  We would put the milk in this can and then, after screwing the top tightly home, would agitate the can from side to side until butter formed.  It was wonderful how much butter we could obtain in this crude manner.</p><P>This tinware peddler, let it be stated here, was named Freiermuth.  He was an uncle of P. J. Freiermuth and granduncle of Harry Freiermuth, who now conducts the P. J. Freiermuth hardware store in Watsonville.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Early day sawmills and how they were run--First mill was a crude affair erected on Pescadero Creek--Pioneer grist mill was moved to Watsonville</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>IN THE early part of 1850 a saw-mill was erected on Pescadero Creek--a creek that empties into the Pajaro river at the junction of Santa Clara, San Benito and Monterey counties near Chittenden.  The reader must recall that, at the time I am writing about, there was no San Benito county.  All that section was embraced in Monterey county, and the junction of the three counties was years afterward placed on Pescadero Creek.  This sawmill, I think, was erected by Silas Twitchell, who afterwards traded it, or sold it, to William Stingley.  It was run by water-power from a large overshot wheel and had an up-and-down saw that worked in a frame, in guides.  It was a very simple and crude affair.  It had a contraption that moved the saw up into the log and jerked it back.  There were no screws at the head-blocks; they pushed the log over by hand.  There were no edgers at that time, so, in squaring the log very thick slabs would come off.  The lumber wasn't cut in small dimensions; 2x4 or 4x4 were the smallest they would cut.  The boards would be from twelve to thirty inches wide, and the carpenters would have to rip them to suit themselves.  There was no dressing, the only dressing was by hand.  It did not saw many feet in a day, and towards the fall the water would get so low that the mill had to shut down.  The logs had to be brought too far and the mill was finally abandoned.  Some years after being deserted a grass fire destroyed it.  The land, at the present time, is owned by the William DeHart estate.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>There was a great deal of split stuff hauled out of Pescadero Canyon.  Nearly all the posts and pickets that were used in the San Juan Valley came out of that canyon, also the split shakes and shingles that were used.</p><P>It was up in the Pescadero Canyon that Col. W. W. Hollister and Pete Mankins had a scrap over some pickets.  This occurred in the latter '50's.  Mankins was a big, strong muscular man, while Hollister was tall and raw-boned.  My brother saw the fight and helped to separate them.  Honors were even and both fighters carried elegant black eyes for some time after.</p><P>At the mouth of this canyon, where it empties into the Pajaro river, Bill and Nels Williamson erected a grist-mill in which water-power was used, but the enterprise was a failure owing to the scarcity of water.  It was afterwards torn down, moved to Watsonville and erected on the north side of the Main Street bridge at Watsonville in Santa Cruz county.  This grist-mill was afterwards acquired by Robt. Orton, a miller, who subsequently became sheriff of Santa Cruz county.  Bill Williamson was the grandfather of Hugh Judd, Watsonville's postmaster.</p><P>Orton sold this grist-mill to a man by the name of Thomas, who ran it for some time.  I worked for him while he was conducting it.</p><P>During my stay in Watsonville I was present at the opening of the big skating rink (Folger's skating rink, afterwards the old opera house) and I was also present at the grand opening of the old Mansion House which, in those days, was one of the finest hotels in central California.</p><P>By the way, let me remark here that, during those days quite a number of relatives of mine lived on the Amesti ranch in the Pajaro Valley.  There was Ike and Bob Mylar and John Hunt, all uncles of mine.  Here is an interesting incident and it is a fact.  My uncles were offered the Amesti ranch at $6 an acre; they refused to take it.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>There was a small grist-mill built, in the early '60's, on the south side of Fourth street in San Juan, but not doing much business it soon passed out of existence.</p><P>The Bodfish canyon saw-mill, which was erected in the latter '50's, got a great deal of San Juan trade, as it had band saws and edgers.  We used to go over there and bring back much of the lumber that was used in and around San Juan.  Towards the last of the '60's the Bodfish mill was conducted by Hanna &amp; Furlong.</p><P>The mills, as run in those days, wasted much lumber.  A twelve foot board, if it had a split in the end or a rotten place in it, would be thrown away, discarded, as they had nothing wherewith to cut the defective part off.  It was thrown out in the scrap pile.  Anyone could buy this kind of lumber cheaply.  A two-horse load could be bought for a dollar and a four-horse load for two dollars.  Purchasers would go out to this refuse pile and pick out the best pieces.  Many a barn or out-house in the San Juan Valley was built out of this discarded material.</p><P>Another mill from which San Juan got a great deal of lumber, shingles, shakes and split stuff was a lumber mill in Brown's Valley, in the Corralitos section.  It was erected by Pruett Sinclair.  Afterwards lumber mills were erected in the Eureka Canyon section by Brown &amp; Williamson, and another one by Rider.  White &amp; DeHart erected a lumber mill on the White ranch, which was located on the road leading to Mount Madonna, near the Game Cock lumber mill. There was a shingle mill near Corralitos which was run by my uncle, John Hunt.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<illus entity="a133-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>View of the Altar, inside the Old Mission Church</p></CAPTION>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The doctors and lawyers in San Juan's early days were in a class by themselves--Some, afterwards, were widely known--Early day justices of the peace</HI>
133.sgm:.</p><P>THE DOCTORS in San Juan, in early days, as I remember them, were: Doctor F. A. McDougall, a Scotchman,, who received his education in Edinburgh, Scotland.  He was a fine surgeon and physician, and was one of the old-time typical country doctors, ready to go at any time of the day or night to treat a patient.  He was always at the service of anyone suffering, and it is doubtful if he ever got one-quarter of the money due him for his services.  He was never known to send any patient a bill.</p><P>Dr. McDougall, whilst making a trip to Los Angeles, on one of the six-horse coaches, driven by Bob Rolls, in crossing the Gabilan range to Salinas Valley, had his shoulder dislocated.  As the coach started to decend the hill the brake gave way, and Rolls, who was a first-class driver, drove the team straight down the hill instead of following the road in which case he was sure to turn over.  But, at the foot of the hill there was a deep gulley and in turning to keep out of it, the stage was upset with the above result.</p><P>Dr. McDougall was brought back to San Juan, and, by his order, was strapped down and two men tried to pull his shoulder in place.  They did not succeed, so he was rushed to San Francisco for treatment.</p><P>This was one case where a doctor was willing to take his own medicine.</p><P>McDougall married the widow of J. Anzar.  This woman's crypt is just inside the entrance to the old mission church.  She was the mother of Juan, Anatol, and P. E. G. Anzar.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:in the early life of the doctor.  He never discussed the matter, so I never learned the true inwardness of this outbreak of profanity.</p><P>He was a clever doctor, but his practice suffered greatly from the fact that people were afraid of him, as often he would be found walking along the road and cursing Mary Jane Shelland.  He was a great walker.  He would think nothing of walking from San Juan to San Francisco, where he went on periodical sprees.  From these trips he would return in a somewhat dilapidated condition and relate, with great gusto, the encounter he had had with some police officer in which, of course, he came off second best, and got locked up in the calaboose.</p><P>Joe C. Gilman, now a resident of Watsonville, who in the early days, drove the stage between Watsonville and Gilroy over what was then known as the old San Jose route, which ran over the mountains via Mount Madonna relates that on one of his trips, he met Dr. Hart, who was stepping out in lively fashion, for San Francisco.  Joe, knowing Dr. Hart, pulled up his team and queried, "Don't you want a ride?"</p><P>Hart looked at him and said: "No.  I'm in a hurry and want to get to San Francisco quick!"</p><P>It took Joe sometime to recover from that sally, as he considered himself a right smart, pert, fast-driving jehu.</p><P>Another doctor in the San Juan Valley was the late Doctor Thos. Flint, but he seldom practiced medicine.  The only time that I ever remember Doctor Flint to respond to a call was on one occasion when a driver for Col. Hollister met with an accident in "The Lane."  He was attempting to fix some furniture that had gotten loose on his wagon-load, and in so doing one of the pieces tumbled down and struck a horse.  The startled team ran away.  In the runaway the man was run over, one of the wheels passing over his chest.  Doctor Flint responded to this call and treated the man.<ANCHOR ID="n15-1">*</ANCHOR>
133.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1">(The Pajaronian editor was proud, during his sojourn in Hollister, to call Doctor Flint his friend.  The doctor often stepped into the "Free Lance" office when we were conducting that paper, and occasionally related to us some of his experiences as a physician.  He was one of the most unassuming and entertaining men we have ever met.)</NOTE>
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133.sgm:<P>A little later came Doctor Simmons.  He had a son and daughter who attended school with me.  The son's name was Elmer and the daughter's name was Clara.  Doctor Simmons afterwards moved to Watsonville where Clara married John Brown, and the son, after graduating from the Pajaronian office, as a printer, went to San Francisco, and in time became the head man (manager) of the great oil and paint firm of the Whittier, Fuller Co.  He has since retired from active business pursuits.  Dr. Simmons was not only a first-class doctor but a pharmacist of no mean ability.  He opened a drug store in Watsonville and conducted it there for years.</p><P>During the never-to-be-forgotten smallpox epidemic of 1868, which assumed a deadly form in this section, extending from Santa Cruz to Watsonville, San Jose and other places, there was in San Juan a doctor Westfall.  He afterwards moved to Monterey.  I believe this doctor is dead now.</p><P>There was another physician there, a Dr. Johnson, of Gilroy, and then came Dr. C. G. Cargill.  Between Doctor Johnson's time and the advent of Doctor Cargill a number of other physicians had located in San Juan whose names and careers I have forgotten.  They would come and go, and it was very hard to keep track of them.</p><P>The lawyers that figured in San Juan's early history were W. E. Lovett, a brother-in-law of Llewellyn Bixby.  While he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:had but little law practice in San Juan, he figured prominently in the star route scandals that were being investigated in Washington, D.C., in the middle '60's.</p><P>Another lawyer there was a Mr. Blair, who had but little practice, and finally went away.</p><P>George W. Crane was another practicing attorney.  Crane was a highly educated man, and a southerner from Virginia.  He had been a partner with Attorney Peckham in Santa Cruz.  Peckham afterwards moved to San Jose.</p><P>Judge Crane--he was always styled "Judge"--married the widow of Dr. Sanford.  Previous to her marriage to Sanford she was the wife of Sanchez, one of the most noted characters in the San Juan Valley, in the early days.  The Sanchez family was a large one, many of its descendants are living today in Hollister and other places in San Benito county.  When the widow Sanchez married Judge Crane she was already the mother of five children.  Four of the children were by Sanchez.  She bore one child to Dr. Sanford.</p><P>One of the Sanchez girls married Dan Wilson, another married T. J. McKnight and the third married Jas. H. Roache.  This last girl was a twin sister of Gregorio Sanchez.</p><P>Gregorio Sanchez married Margaret Breen, daughter of Samuel Breen.  The fifth child, whose name was Fidella Sanford, married Jas. Breen, a brother of Mrs. Greg Sanchez.</p><P>Whenever any case of importance transpired, outside legal talent was imported.  I remember amongst the imported legal talent Woodside and Gregory; also a lawyer by the name of Webb, these resided at Monterey; sometimes Julius Lee, from Watsonville, would come over.</p><P>Constables were so numerous, that is, they changed so often, that I failed to keep track of them.  It must be remembered that in those days there were no salaries attached to the office, the only remuneration being the fees they received from serving papers which fees were anything but munificent.  No one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:wanted the constable's job unless they had another job on the side, for in addition to its being illy-paid, there was, to a certain extent, considerable danger attached to the office.  A constable never knew when he would be called upon to face a "bad man" and arrest him.</p><P>Regarding the Justices of the Peace, I remember the following: George Chalmers, John Birmingham, John Whitney (who was also postmaster for many years), and Joe Heritage.</p><P>John Gaster, one of the first justices of the peace, of San Juan, died in San Juan in 1868, during the smallpox epidemic.</p><P>The first constable I remember was James Miller and the last one, the present incumbent "CC" Zanetta.</p><P>The supervisors received $5.00 per day, when in session, and a mileage of 15&cent; a mile one way.  Their sessions generally occupied about three days every month.  There was no money in this job, either, for the supervisors had to pay their way to Monterey, at that time the county seat, and also their board and lodging whilst engaged in their work as supervisors.  It must be remembered that in those days all that region was embraced in Monterey County.  Accordingly, in view of the poor pay attached to official jobs it may well be judged that there was very little money paid out to secure elections.  Votes were not bought in those days.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The pony express riders of early days--Civil war clouds gathering--San Juan was dubbed a "Copperhead" town Troops sent to mission town to quell trouble</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>IN 1860 the mail came from San Francisco.  It took 26 days for mail from New York City, through the isthmus, to reach San Francisco.  Then the Pony Express was started--I think in April, 1860.  It started from San francisco at this end and St. Joseph, Missouri, on the other side.  The trip was made across the continent in ten days.  That time was afterwards considerably shortened but I remember how highly elated the people were at the prospect of getting their mail in ten days instead of waiting for the twenty-six days.</p><P>The Pony Express riders rode day and night, changing riders and horses at certain stations.  We would often hear of these brave, fearless, men being massacred by Indians.</p><P>In 1861, a memorable year and one that I will always remember, dissension over the slavery question broke out between the Northern and Southern states.  A joint resolution had been passed by the State Legislature, in response from a request from the President, to put down the foes of the central government.  So in all towns and cities military organizations were raised.  San Juan, however, did not organize any military company.  It was often dubbed a "Copperhead Town."  The people who had settled in San Juan were mostly southerners and western people, and their sympathies were with the South.</p><P>These southern sympathizers were men and women who, facing great hardships, had crossed the continent to leave as an heritage to their children the grand and glorious state of California--the most wonderful state in the Union.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>The entire contingent were royal good fellows, although the town calaboose was constantly crowded with drunken soldiers.  The officers were gentlemen and everyone liked them.</p><P>While the troops were there I remember that three of San Juan's citizens made some remarks that were considered somewhat treasonable.  These three men were promptly arrested and imprisoned in a guard-house (an old adobe that had been obtained for such a purpose).  However, the incarceration of these men did not last long for the guards placed over them fell asleep and the prisoners escaped.  It was significant that the guards made no report of the escape until the men had had ample time to get "o'er the hills, and far away."  And they were never caught.  We were always of the opinion that filthy lucre had crossed the palms of those guards.</p><P>The officers made a big splurge about recapturing these fugitives and orders were issued to search every home in San Juan, but after the soldiers searched two or three houses they quit.</p><P>It was while searching for these three men that had escaped that a squad of the soldiers, away up in the mountains, under the command of Lieut.  Rafferty, came upon the two rascals whose depredations had originally brought the troops to San Juan.  After a running fight of several miles the two fugitives escaped in the wilderness.</p><P>Major Cremony left soon after the above events transpired and went to Arizona to fight the Apaches.  The alleged confederate soldiers and robbers were subsequently captured by Capt. McIlroy and a squad of United States soldiers at Los Angeles.  Capt. McIlroy was, in after years, the owner of the hotel at Emmett, on the road to the New Idria Mines which place he sold to Tom Ingels, brother of the late Mrs. M. B. Tuttle of Watsonville.</p><P>Eventually the soldiers went away, and peace once more reigned over the San Juan Valley.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Road to Salinas Valley--Manuel Larios' fiesta days--Indian women did the washing in primitive style--The late John Breen</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>THE PRESENT San Juan cemeteries are located on the old "El Camino Real".  This road in the early days was the overland route to the southern portion of the state.  The stages, or conveyances, after passing the cemeteries turned into the canyon and ascended the steep grade up the Gabilan mountains--so steep that invariably, if the stage was crowded, the men had to walk up the hill.  Women were treated chivalrously in those days and were not requested to leave the stage at all.  At the foot of the descent, on the other side of the Gabilan range, the road traversed a canyon, emerging at what was known as Hebbron's Lake, passed through Natividad, and struck out for Soledad and San Luis Obispo.</p><P>On this road there were several old settlers whom I shall mention:</p><P>On the left of the road after passing the cemetery, situated on a plateau, was the home of Manuel Larios.  It was a two-story adobe house with a large room for dancing purposes on the lower floor.  It would be well to remark, right here, that all the adobe haciendas of the early days had similar dancing rooms on the lower floor, in fact, in those days, these haciendas were places at which friends and neighbors often gathered to have a good time.  Don Larios always gave a fiesta on the 16th of September, which was the day of Mexican independence.  He would announce a bull fight but the bull fight did not amount to much.  The fiesta was the thing.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>The Spaniards (we called them "Spaniards") were common figures in the early days.  They were constantly coming and going and made up a large portion of the population.  They all had good horses and at their fiestas I have seen them do all kinds of stunts.</p><P>At this fiesta a big fire would be started, a beef killed and barbecued, and the meat hung up in some convenient place.  All hands would repair to the meat, cutting off as much as they wanted to eat, and, with bread, have a meal at their pleasure.  It is worthy of remark that at these festive gatherings it was rarely that any of the guests would be seen drunk.</p><P>The music, comprising violins and guitars, was placed in a big room in the house and one could dance until he was exhausted.  Everything connected with the fiesta was free, and all, whether invited or not, were made welcome--that is, if they behaved themselves.</p><P>Larios was one of the old Dons.  He was a fine Castilian gentleman, a man of many virtues, respected and beloved by all who knew him.</p><P>Continuing on this road a little further past Larios' place was a residence occupied by a man named Benjamin Holliwell.  In 1868 this residence was empty having been deserted by its owner and during the great smallpox epidemic was used as a pesthouse until, subsequently, another pesthouse was built on the bank of the San Benito river near the site where Ben Flint, Jr., afterwards built his home.</p><P>At the foot of the hill on this road there was located another home occupied by a family by the name of Stramner, who were early settlers in that section.  The two daughters, named respectively Sinai and Lucy, attended school with me, in San Juan.</p><P>It will be remembered that there were three grades going over the mountain; the old grade that I have just spoken about; then, afterwards, there was another grade that went over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:Raggio's Canyon and the third grade that was taken over by the state and made the present grade.</p><P>At the foot of the second grade you came first to the home of Bob Mylar, my uncle.  Afterwards this home was occupied by James Smith who later was elected sheriff of Monterey County; Smith, subsequently, moved away.</p><P>After Smith's removal old man Raggio took over the place.</p><P>A short distance west of the Raggio place was the home of a man by the name of Daley.  Daley had four sons whose names were Hugh, Charlie, Henry and James.  They all attended school during my school days.  The Daley family were the poorest folks I ever knew.  Yet, strange to relate, these four boys, equipped poorly by education to encounter the vicissitudes of life, took sheep on shares and eventually became very wealthy.  They moved over into the San Joaquin Valley, living in the vicinity of Hanford.</p><P>Returning to my father's place, on the other side of San Juan, at the junction of the road where it turned and ran on to Hollister, in one direction, and up to the Flint ranch, or, as it was called, the Flint Home in the other direction, there was located, in early days, a number of Indian huts.  From this settlement the place was always designated as "Indian Corners."</p><P>The women did laundry work.  They washed clothes on a smooth board two feet wide and three feet long with one end of the board in the creek that ran down past my father's place from the San Juan Canyon, and the other end of the board was slightly raised.  They would get down on their knees and rub and scrape these clothes until they were clean, using nothing but cold water.  At first they used the "amole" or "soap root" which they dug out of the ground up in the hills, but as this began to be scarce they used soap.  After getting the clothes clean they would spread them on the grass to dry.  I never saw cleaner or whiter clothes than garments <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:washed by these Indian women.  On Saturday afternoons they would be seen going into San Juan with big bundles of clean clothes balanced on top of their heads, which they were delivering to their patrons in the village.  The Indian men did odd jobs.</p><P>There was another location in the lower end of the valley, which also contained a number of these Indian families.  With this latter aggregation there lived an old Indian who claimed to be over one hundred years of age, and who made a pilgrim-age to San Juan every day riding a jackass.  Suspended from the saddle were two rawhide bags, each of which held about one-half bushel.  He would ride along slowly stopping at every house that he came to, and it became a custom for the residents, when they saw the old fellow stop in front of their homes, to come out and give him something, bread, meat, or whatever they could afford.  The consequence was that although the old Indian never solicited charity, and rarely uttered a word, he would return home in the evening loaded down with provender.  This old man was a striking figure.  His age made his skin look like yellow parchment and he had no teeth.  His venerable appearance always inspired respect.  He claimed to be one of the Indians who had worked on the old Mission when it was being constructed.</p><P>Some of these men were large, strong, and of fine physique.  They were excellent workers in the harvest.  I only remember them as Indians, (although I knew them well personally) by the names of "Frank," "Pete," "John," etc.</p><P>However, I remember that one of them was shot dead on Third Street, in San Juan, by Ambrosio Rosas, who defended his action by declaring that he was in fear of losing his life at the hands of the Indian.  Rosas was acquitted.</p><P>Another Indian I remember was killed by Benino Soto, who also claimed self-defense and was likewise acquitted.</p><P>Another one of those Indians, a big fellow whom I knew by the name of Frank, disputed the right-of-way with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Many of those reading my memoirs will remember the place called "Breen's Grove."  It used to be the custom to hold the Fourth of July celebrations first in San Juan, and then in Hollister.  At San Juan these celebrations were always held in "Breen's Grove."  This land was originally my father's but by an amicable arrangement Breen bought the twenty acres from him upon which the grove was located.</p><P>I may say here in passing that many good times were had in that old grove, for a picnic at San Juan attracted the countryside, and everyone who attended a picnic at that grove had lots of fun.</p><P>Do any of my readers remember the Jim Roache place?  It was situated on the road that connected with the Lane leading to Hollister.  It was a double house, two stories high, and was built by Marselle and John Bixby.  This place was located on what was supposed to be government land.  It was land that Colonel Hollister advised my father to take up.  Whether the Bixbys preempted the land I cannot say.  It was afterwards taken over in the San Justo grant.  I stayed there many nights as the Bixby men were away a great portion of the time with their sheep and John's wife was frightened at staying alone.  The Bixbys did not live in this house very long.  They afterwards went to southern California where, by lucky investments, in real estate they became immensely wealthy.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Juan from</HI>
133.sgm: 1860 <HI REND="italics">to</HI>
133.sgm: 1870-- <HI REND="italics">The starting of the Overland Stage Line from San Francisco to Los Angeles--A perilous trip in bad weather</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>I HAVE already related, as far back as I can remember, certain incidents in connection with my stay in San Juan from 1855-60.  I have carefully gone over the streets and endeavored to convey a picture of San Juan as it existed in those days, nothing the various buildings, streets, and the people who resided there.</p><P>I now take up San Juan from 1860 to 1870.</p><P>In the early 60's there passed through San Juan, coming and going, hosts of would-be settlers.  Some were from the mines in the north, others from southern California.  These people were looking for places whereon to settle.  Some had already settled in other parts of the state, but becoming dissatisfied with their location had abandoned their claims or sold them and started out to find a more acceptable home-site.  In addition to these people there were many strangers crossing the plains and coming into California.</p><P>As San Juan was one of the most important stopping places on El Camino Real, it steadily grew larger and larger.</p><P>It was in the year 1861, if I remember aright, that Flint, Bixby &amp; Co., established their line of Overland Stages, running from San Francisco to Los Angeles.  This line was under the superintendency of William Buckley, who managed the same for many years.</p><P>The advent of the Overland Stages added a new impetus to San Juan.  The Overland Company needed horses, and feed, and gave employment to hundreds of men, adding greatly to the town's revenue.  Accordingly, San Juan being one of the stopping places on the route, it went ahead at an amazing rate.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>San Juan was made the stage company's headquarters, as it was the first stopping place of the stage.  The stage arrived there today and would start on its return to San Francisco tomorrow morning.</p><P>The stages would arrive about five-thirty in the afternoon, and the passengers would dine in San Juan, whilst their baggage was being transferred to another six-horse coach, which, after the meal, would start south.</p><P>I have often, when a boy, saw those stages start south, in the winter time, when it was dark and stormy.  The stage was only dimly lighted having but two lights--a lamp on either side of the driver's seat.  Underneath the driver's seat was carried the express box and the U.S. mail, this was covered with a leather apron which the driver would pull up in wet weather to his chin, as would any other passenger that was occupying the seat beside him.  This would shed off the rain along the somewhat perilous trip.  There was nothing else to protect the driver from the wind and rain save a rubber coat, but he started out bravely for an all-night's drive.</p><P>There were no springs underneath the bodies of the coaches, they were thoroughbrace, that is, the body of the coach rested on several thicknesses of leather which served to ward off, from the passengers, many a jolt.  But, Lord, how those coaches would rock to and fro as they bowled along the primitive roads; and yet, they were easy to ride in!</p><P>The "boot" in the rear of the coach which held the trunks, valises, etc., was covered by a heavy leather apron which was strapped solidly over them.</p><P>Two of these coaches, "The Great Eastern," and "The Great Western," would carry sixteen passengers, four to a seat, inside; two passengers could ride, with the driver, and three on a seat on top of the stage, behind the driver, and three on a seat over the baggage "boot" behind, but these three had to ride backwards.  There was a little iron rail that ran around the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:top of the coach, and many a time when there were more passengers that the coach could carry inside, passengers would sit on the top of the coach and allow their legs to dangle over the side.</p><P>I once made a trip on one of these stages from San Jose to San Juan when there were twenty-nine passengers aboard the stage.</p><P>The company generally had two or three drivers stopping at the Plaza Hotel, and when the occasion arose they would relieve a congested stage by putting a small one out in charge of one of these drivers.  It can be imagined that at this time, the Plaza Hotel was doing a thriving business.  The bar-room was crowded night and day.  Some of the passengers would lay over there to rest, and to take in all the points of interest in that vicinity.</p><P>In those days, travelers--men and women alike--wore long linen dusters, tightly buttoned up, even closely drawn around the neck in order to keep off the dust which at times was almost smothering.</p><P>When the passengers on the Overland Stages arrived at the Plaza Hotel they generally rushed to the wash room, although, in many instances, the male passengers would stop long enough at the bar to first wash out their throats.</p><P>About this time Frank Fulgium bought the National Hotel from Gaster, the man who originally erected the structure, and opened it up as a hostelry.  Fulgium was also interested in a freight business that conveyed merchandise between Alviso and the New Idria Mines.  It will be remembered that Harris, who conducted a merchandisestore had a contract for furnishing purchases and goods to the mines.</p><P>E. A. Reynolds a leading sheep and stockman in San Juan, about this time, bought the block bounded by Second and Third, Tuolumne and Jefferson Streets, formerly owned by Clark.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Geo. Russell, his son-in-law, built a residence on Second Street on the property.  E. A. Reynolds was, at one time, a supervisor of Monterey county from the San Juan district.</p><P>Property on all sides was changing hands and San Juan was commencing to boom.</p><P>All the stages owned by the company were driven out of San Juan with matched teams.  Superintendent Buckley was a great stickler for uniformity and these four or six-horse teams were always either white, sorrel, bay, or roan teams.</p><P>Each driver furnished and owned his own whip.  These whips served as marks of distinction.  They were of the finest quality, silver-tipped, and the majority of them had a silver band for each year that its owner had been a driver.  Some of these drivers graduated from the old Overland Stage Company, and they were veritable sons of Jehu, mentioned in biblical lore.</p><P>The Stage Company had its own horse-shoer with headquarters at San Juan.  This horse-shoer, Jimmy McInerny, was one of the best horse-shoers that I have ever seen.  It was his duty to go along the stage line as far south as San Luis Obispo and look after the shoes on the horses at the various stations after which he would return to San Juan.  How true this is I don't know, but it was one of the legends of San Juan that Jimmy McInerny was known to have shod sixteen horses in a day--and if that is true, Jimmy did a day's work!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The hotels of San Juan in its early days--The opening date of the Plaza Hotel was a big event--Sports on the Plaza--Spanish costumes in early days</HI>
133.sgm:.</p><P>IN JUNE 24, 1856, the Plaza Hotel was opened by Angelo Zanetta, whom we have referred to, elsewhere, as having run the Sebastopol Hotel, on Third Street.</p><P>The Plaza Hotel was originally the home of the Anzar family, and in it P. E. G. Anzar was born.  Upon the death of his parents the property was left to him.  Zanetta purchased the property from Anzar's guardian--he being under age, at the time.  When Zanetta purchased this building it was occupied by a merchandise firm conducted by Jas. McMahon and a man named Griffin.</p><P>After tearing off the top and remodeling the first story, the second story was added to it, this story being built of lumber.  There was a veranda the entire length of the building, in front.  This veranda, on festival days, was always occupied by interested spectators of the bull and bear fights and other games.  Generally these fights occurred on June 24th, of each year, that date being St. John's Day.</p><P>The opening of the Plaza Hotel was a gala affair, the place was crowded, as Angelo Zanetta was well and favorably known not only in Monterey, from which place he had come to San Juan, but also in the San Juan Valley.</p><P>From the ranchos, far and near, came the Dons with their families.  To me, a boy of eight years, it was a great sight.  A band was engaged and played on the veranda of the hotel for the delectation of the populace.  The veranda was crowded with senoritas and women of other nationalities, all in gay attire.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>After attending mass in the morning at the old mission, which fronts on the plaza, the fun would commence.</p><P>The gay cabelleros, gaudily attired and riding finely comparisoned horses, would display their horsemanship in many ways.  Backing up some distance they would ride on the plaza at full speed and pick up money, handkerchiefs, and even, as related before, pluck a chicken's head from its body--the chicken being buried in the ground with only its head above the surface.</p><illus entity="a133-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The old Plaza Hotel</p></CAPTION>
133.sgm:<P>In order to make the celebration as noisy and as impressive as possible the old cannon, to which I have alluded before, was raised from the ground and placed on the back part of a wagon, the two wheels of which had been fixed up for the occasion.  The idea in doing this was to load it with more ease.  This cannon was fired at regular intervals all day and away into the night, and of course this bombardment was a great attraction for us youngsters.</p><P>Here and there could be seen, on these occasions, a Don attired in a serape (a serape was a finely made blanket with a hole in the center through which the head of the wearer was thrust).  Some of these cloaks (serapes) were very valuable.  They were made of the finest materials, and had silk worked into them as well as being ornamented in various ways.  They were rated highly and commanded a big price.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>On the day of the bear fight the bear would be attached to a pole in the center of the enclosure.  He would have a run of about twenty feet around the pole to which he was attached by a strong riata.  The bull was similarly tethered by one foot.  Invariably, the bear would be killed inasmuch as he would stand on his hind feet to receive the oncoming bull who would, with so fair a target before him, generally rip the bear open after a few thrusts.  The bull usually escaped with a few scratches, although I have seen some of the bulls so badly mangled that they had to be killed.  I have seen as many as 5000 people attend one of these fiestas.  They came from all directions, far and near.  Where they slept or how they got food to eat, I do not know and I often wondered if Providence sent ravens to feed them.</p><P>When a boy I was sitting on a fence watching the proceedings at one of these festivals, and witnessed a premature explosion of the cannon which tore off Lon Woodworth's arm, below the elbow.  Lon Woodworth was a son-in-law of Joshua Twitchell.</p><P>In order to load the cannon, which was greatly heated, from being fired so often, a man would place his thumb over the vent to keep it from prematurely exploding.  At the time of this accident a man by the name of Hopper was engaged in stopping up the vent.  Hooper had evidently been "indulging" rather freely and as Woodworth rammed home the charge the cannon exploded, with the result above stated.</p><P>After the grand celebration of the opening of the Plaza Hotel, on June 24, 1856 we had a hotel that we considered second to none.  Zanetta became noted throughout the entire state for his cuisine.  The Plaza Hotel became the headquarters for traders in sheep, horses, cattle and hogs.  They were a free spending lot, those men, and San Juan did well by their trade.</p><P>The purchases made by these buyers were for the San Francisco and San Jose markets.  The cattle were driven overland to their ultimate destination.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>The fame of the hotel, under Zanetta, spread.  It was noteworthy that drummers would come to San Juan, make their reservations there, and then hiring a horse and buggy would interview their customers in Santa Cruz, Watsonville, Salinas and other points, always managing to return to San Juan by night fall.  Some of these drummers would make the Plaza Hotel their headquarters for several days.  This was due, mainly to the fine table set by Zanetta, the excellent wines and liquors that he kept, and the air of hospitality that pervaded the entire establishment.</p><P>Years afterwards a laughable incident occurred at the Plaza Hotel.  The entrance, into the hotel, one afternoon, of a scared steer that not only drove all the lounging inmates out but when roped to be led out the side door, was found standing up at the bar.  This gave rise to the story that the steer, which had broken away from a herd that was being driven through the plaza, had came in for a drink and Tony Taix, who was running the hotel at that time, treated the animal so royally that he was decidedly groggy when finally led away.</p><P>Soon after the hotel was opened by Zanetta, John Comfort bought a half interest in it with him.</p><P>Shortly after going into partnership Zanetta and Comfort built, facing the plaza opposite the Plaza Hotel, a two-story frame building the upper story of which was used as a dance hall.  For years following, the Plaza dance hall of San Juan was rated as having the finest dancing floor in that section of California.</p><P>Adjoining this dance hall was a large stable that had been used by the Overland Stage Company.  This stable was acquired by Zanetta and Comfort.  Prior to this Zanetta and Comfort had conducted a stable back of the hotel.  This stable fronted on Third Street and was directly opposite the old Sebastopol Hotel.</p><P>East of the Plaza Hotel in the same block, was the long two-story adobe that formerly was the home and headquarters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:of General Castro, and afterwards the home of the Breen family.  This building also had a veranda that faced on the plaza.  The Breen family, that came across the plains in the Donner party, occupied this large building.  The only Breen that was not a member of the Donner party was Wm. Breen.  He was born in San Juan.</p><P>After the death of Patrick Breen and his wife, the children one by one went away and finally the old building was deserted.  This building is still owned by the Breen family.</p><P>After the Breen family went away the building was placed in charge of Mrs. O'Flynn, one of the finest Irish women that I ever knew.  It was during Mrs. O'Flynn's incumbency of the Breen home as caretaker that Helen Hunt Jackson, authoress of "Ramona," came to San Juan and laid the foundation of that famous novel around San Juan.  After Ramona's authoress left San Juan I learned, with great regret, that she had made some unkind remarks about Mrs. O'Flynn.  This I resented deeply for I had known Mrs. O'Flynn from the time she had arrived in San Juan, a widow with four small children.  She was a good Catholic, a fine woman of irreproachable character, and she worked her hands to the bone for her children, whom she raised in splendid style.  They were always neatly dressed and clean and she gave them the best education she could afford.  They grew up fine members of society and moved away.  I lost track of them after their removal.</p><P>I have never had, since that time, any use whatsoever for the authoress of "Ramona."  I always thought that Mrs. O'Flynn was a woman deserving of the highest commendation.  She supported her children and brought them up by her hard work at the wash tub. She took in washing early and late, day after day, following that occupation with only one object in view--the health and happiness of her children.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Various phases of life in San Juan during</HI>
133.sgm: 1861-1862-- <HI REND="italics">The wet winter of</HI>
133.sgm: 1862-- <HI REND="italics">The disastrous drought of</HI>
133.sgm: 1864-- <HI REND="italics">My first railroad ride</HI>
133.sgm:.</p><P>AT THIS time San Juan boasted of two blacksmith shops running full blast.  One was conducted by Jasper Twitchell, the other by W. G. Hubbard.  Many new saloons had been opened and some of them were kept open all night.  Gambling flourished and San Juan boomed as one of the most enterprising towns on the route of the Overland Stage Company.</p><P>The stores of that period (1855-1860) carried general assortments--there were no ready-to-wear women's garments.  They bought the materials and made up the garments at home, by hand, at first, until the advent of the sewing machine, which was some years later.  It was not uncommon to see a woman or her daughter continuously sewing, on garments, even at night, in the home circle.  Of course, if it was a very fine dress that was to be made, it was taken to the dressmaker.</p><P>The Spanish women excelled in needlework and their drawn-work was incomparable.  If you got a peep at their undergarments, they were immaculate and starched until they rattled.  There were no coats worn by the ladies, they all wore shawls of different grades.  Some were woolen, while others were of the finest silk.  Men's suits could be bought in the store.  Men's work shirts were piled on the counter; if you wanted to buy one you picked it up and held it in front of you with a cuff in each hand and arms extended.  It the tail was long enough and the sleeves about right, you bought it regardless of size of the collar.  Shirts were, generally, all the same color; either small check or hickory.  Ties were seldom worn.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:liquor, as a general thing, was pure; and oh, Lordy! how some of those early Argonauts could get away with it.  Still they seldom got drunk!</p><P>The winter of 1861-1862 was the wettest winter that I ever witnessed in California.  It rained incessantly for days.  Everything was tied up.  Teamsters plying between Alviso and San Juan had their teams stuck in the mud.  They would bring their horses into town and had to stop there until weather conditions permitted them to move their loaded wagons.</p><P>The severity of this winter may be judged from the fact that one of these teamsters was drowned in a waterway, a sort of a slough, that crossed the road near where Frank Dowdy lives on the road between San Juan and Sargent.  The unfortunate driver had unhitched his team from the wagon driving them to town when he was caught in the torrent of water in this waterway, and it is thought that one of the horses must have kicked him in the struggle to get on the other side of the bank.  The body was afterwards found in the willows near the bridge.  Four of the New Idria six-horse teams were mired down in the turn of the road leading into the "Lane," coming from Hollister.  They hired Abner Moore, who had four yoke of oxen, and he managed to pull them out of the mire.  The condition of the rain-soaked ground was best evidenced by the fact that in pulling those teams that mired down, the wheels actually failed to turn and left small gulleys in the road which were filled with water for the remainder of the winter.</p><P>During this wet winter the only way that the New Idria Mines could be reached was to go up through the San Juan Canyon, passing where the cement plant is now located, turn left around a small hill, then through Flint's field toward the eastern end of the lane where you had to turn to the right and go through the low hills to New Idria.  It sometimes took three days for the teams to drive these four miles through Flint's fields.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:where the bridge crosses the San Benito river.  Miller paid $2.50 a head for this bunch of cattle.  It was either take his terms or lose the stock.</p><P>Day after day droves of cattle would pass our house being driven to the "mantanza" (slaughter house) near Monterey, where the cattle were killed for their hides and horns.  The carcasses of the beeves were cooked in large kettles or cauldrons and fed to hogs.  Many of the poor beasts on their journey towards the slaughter house would fall in their tracks, to never get up, and were abandoned by their drivers.  Carcasses could be seen everywhere and the air was filled with the stench of the putrifying carcasses.</p><P>On the Pacheco ranch, which took in all that portion of what is now known as the Santa Ana Valley and the San Felipe section, there was a slough that lead into Soap Lake.  This slough would be lined with the decaying carcasses of cattle who, too weak to pull themselves out of the mud, died there.  They died, by the hundreds, whilst striving to reach some tule, or some wisp of grass, that they saw growing on the banks of the slough.</p><P>Two firms located in Watsonville would make trips to the Pacheco section buying the hides.  One firm, Wise &amp; Company, would make their round of the ranches the first part of the week, and the other firm, Friedlander &amp; Company, would make their trip the latter part of the week.  They would carry on their trips a miscellaneous assortment of merchandise which they would exchange for hides.  Returning from these trading trips the big wagons of these firms would be seen loaded down with hides which towered high above the sides of the vehicle.</p><P>The driest year I ever saw in California was that of 1864.</p><P>It was in January, 1864, that the railroad reached San Jose and a big celebration in honor of the event was held.  Many of the San Juan people attended this affair.  In March of that year my father went to San Francisco, following his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The religious wave that struck San Juan in</HI>
133.sgm: 1864-- <HI REND="italics">Abraham Lincoln's assassination--The story of Evans James ("Johnny Bull</HI>
133.sgm: ")</p><P>IT WAS in 1864 that San Juan was struck with a "religious fever."</p><P>The Baptists had a church erected on Monterey Street, close to the cemetery, opposite the old school house.  As this church boasted a bell, with rope attached, the pupils used to ring the bell to summon the scholars to school.</p><P>Sometimes some of the boys would pull the bell cord so hard that it would turn the bell over, and it could not be rung at all.  Then it became necessary for someone to climb into the belfry and release the bell, this being a rather hard task.  I do not care to mention the names of the boys that were charged with the offense of turning the bell over, but as I frequently heard the names of Lupe Anzar, Fielding Hodges and Fernando Zanetta mentioned when any sort of mischief was done around the school, I am inclined to think they were the culprits; in fact, they would have to present me with a copperriveted affidavit of denial, to alter my belief in this matter.</p><P>The Methodists built their church on Second and Church Streets.  In former days there was but one Methodist church, but when the Civil War broke out that church divided into two denominations.  The Methodist Church South, comprising Methodists who lived south of the Mason-Dixon line, and the Methodist Church comprised those residing north of that famous imaginary line.  Akin to all communities in the United States, the San Juan Methodists divided and the North Methodists erected a building near the cemetery, on Church Street, and then commenced a series of revival meetings, that, for the time, took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:sole possession of public attention.  Besides this religious outbreak there were camp-meetings in the willow grove over near old Gilroy.  There were many baptisms in the Pajaro river, at its junction with the San Benito river.  These baptisms were largely attended, especially by the younger element.  I seldom missed one of them.  The revival meetings were also a great attraction for us young fellows, for it was at the revival meetings that we had the privilege of taking the girls home, after services.</p><P>As is usual in such cases, as time went on, this wave of religion died out.  The churches were deserted, and moved away--all except the Baptist church which was afterwards moved to the west side of Third Street, between Polk and Mokelumne Streets, where it now stands.</p><P>On the fourteenth of April, in the year 1865, one of the saddest events in history occurred.  Abraham Lincoln was assassinated.</p><P>Such a calamity had never occurred before in the United States.  It was no wonder that grief was shown on every side.  He (Abraham Lincoln) had been a father to the people.  In him was vested the rule and safeguard of the people.  At this time, when a wise head and a pure heart was needed, he led us through the uncertain sands of statecraft.</p><P>I had the greatest respect for Abraham Lincoln, born in Kentucky, as was my father, and although father was a strong Democrat he voted for Lincoln.  My father always claimed that if Lincoln had not been killed he would have brought order out of chaos and there never would have been such a cry as the "bloody shirt."</p><P>There being a large territory of grazing land in and about the Panoche Valley and Coalinga, many engaged in the cattle and sheep-raising business.  That section being government land, no rental was charged on it, and the feed was free.  These plainsmen, with their families, lived in San Juan.  Some of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:these men I will mention as near as I can remember.  There was Russell &amp; Reynolds, N. Crooks, Chas. Mitchell, Chas. Goodrich, Albion Baker, "Billy" Woods, Geo. W. McConnell and others.</p><P>As sheep were valuable at the time, and commanded good prices, the income of these sheepmen was spent in San Juan--they spent money freely, too, as also did the cattlemen and stock-buyers who came to town to purchase cattle.  As a consequence money circulated freely, and times in San Juan were booming.</p><P>One of the most prominent sheep buyers at that time was Evans James, known far and wide throughout the Monterey county as "Johnny Bull."  Evans was a large buyer and drove many herds to San Francisco.  James' reputation for honesty was so well established that it was not necessary for him to carry money with him wherewith to make purchases.  If he accepted the cattle at the price demanded and did not have the money to pay for the stock, it was all right.  James was merely told to take the cattle with him, and sometimes he would not be able to return for weeks.  No one that ever had any dealings with him had any misgivings as to being treated square by him.  His modus operandi was simple.  Say he bought a flock of sheep at Tres Pinos, or further south, he would start with his flock for San Francisco driving them slowly and letting them feed off the grass on the way.  His care was such that by the time the mutton sheep reached San Francisco they were in prime condition.</p><P>It mattered nothing to "Johnny Bull" where night over-took him.  He would post his faithful shepherd dog over his flock, partake of supper, which consisted of crackers and cheese, and then wrapping himself in a blanket would lie down on the ground to sleep.</p><P>I remember that much amusement was occasioned on the return of Rafael Hernandez from one of those trips to San Francisco.  Rafael was hired by "Johnny Bull" to assit him in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:the drive, and when Rafael returned to San Juan he declared with many "carambas," and ejaculations of disgust that, under no circumstances would he ever again be caught on one of those trips with "Johnny Bull."  During the trip, he solemnly declared, he had been given nothing to eat but hog beef and cracks!--meaning bacon and crackers which he could not easily translate into pure English.</p><P>By dint of industry and perseverance, in a few years "Johnny Bull" owned a fine ranch in the San Juan Valley and also had an excellent stock ranch near Hernandez, in southern San Benito County.</p><P>But adversity overtook the old fellow, and bad investments reduced him to penury.  He lost all he possessed except a wagon and four mules.  With this outfit he used to team, here and there, pursuing the same tactics that he employed whilst driving the sheep, viz: lie down beneath the stars at night wherever night's shadows overtook him, and let the mules graze on the surrounding verdure.</p><P>In May, 1866 I received the severest jolt that I ever had in my life.  This was the death of my beloved mother.  It changed the whole course of my life.  My father, who had relied greatly on her wise counsel, was like a ship without a rudder on a trackless ocean.  He had consulted my mother in regard to business matters and followed her advice implicitly, as she had the most executive ability of the two.  Our hitherto happy home was like a bee hive without the queen bee.</p><P>This bereavement cost me dearly.  My mother had patiently and laboriously saved up money enough to send me to college--a boon that I craved.  Had she not died I would have been a much different man.</p><P>Elsewhere in these memoirs I have mentioned the disastrous fire that destroyed a number of blocks on Third Street.  This fire occurred in 1867.</p><P>Sometime in 1866, Jas. Roache opened a merchandise store on the west corner of Second and Tuolumne Streets.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The great smallpox epidemic of</HI>
133.sgm: 1868-- <HI REND="italics">Pitiful scenes--The town was quarantined by neighboring communities--The pest-house on the banks of the San Benito River</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>IN 1868 came the great epidemic that struck San Juan and all the surrounding districts sorely--it was the year of the great smallpox epidemic.</p><P>A wayfarer, coming from Los Angeles, put up for the night at the National Hotel.  It was then conducted by Geo. Pullen, grandfather of Frank Pullen, of Watsonville.  The man was sick, and Mr. Pullen called in a doctor who pronounced the man's affliction, measles.</p><P>San Juan citizens, always sympathetic, heard of this sick stranger and a number of them visited him, and tendered their services to help.  Finally, James Collins, a man who had had the smallpox, went to call on this stranger, and when he looked at the man he remarked: "If that man hasn't got smallpox then I never had it."  Collins was badly pock-marked from the ravages of the disease when it had attacked him in early youth.  Those who had visited the stranger, in a few days, came down with the disease and the epidemic broke out all over the town.</p><P>There happened to be a big dance in town at this time, and a number of those stricken with the disease attended the dance, notwithstanding that they had a high fever.  Of course, they thought it was some simple ailment that was troubling them.  It was afterwards said that over forty that attended that dance came down with the disease in a few days.</p><P>And then a general hegira began.  Some families taking, for the present, what simple necessities would do them, struck out for the mountains and camped there.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>A pest house was erected by the citizens of San Juan on the banks of the San Benito river, near where Ben Flint's home stands now.  The unfortunate victims of the disease who had no one to care for them were sent to this lonely spot.  The disease proved to be of the most malignant type.  Nurses could not be obtained anywhere, although as high as twenty dollars a night was offered them.</p><P>San Juan was quarantined on all sides.  The roads leading to and from it were barred.</p><P>This disease extended to Watsonville where it carried off many victims.  Watsonville, at one time, was as sorely stricken as San Juan.  It was at the heighth of this epidemic that some panic-stricken citizens of Santa Cruz wrecked the bridge leading into the county seat, across Aptos creek.  This was to prevent anyone from Watsonville coming into Santa Cruz.  Their precaution was useless, however, for a few days afterward they had a dozen cases.  This incident awoke great resentment among the people of Watsonville towards the people of Santa Cruz, and even to this day old-timers will bitterly revert to this incident.</p><P>San Juan was in sore straits.  The stock of provisions was rapidly decreasing, and as no one was allowed to enter the town, or go out of it, the people were desperate.  It is related that two of the citizens sneaked out and made their way to Monterey.  On the outskirts of that settlement they changed their clothes and then went into that town to solicit aid and assistance for the stricken people of San Juan.</p><P>One of the men that went on this errand of mercy was George Pullen, a young lad, afterwards the father of Frank Pullen, of Watsonville.  When these two men were recognized in Monterey everybody ran away from them, and it was only after a kind-hearted doctor took them in hand, heard their story, and what they had done, that confidence was restored to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:Montereyans to the effect that the visitors were all right.  Pullen and his associate returned with both money and provisions.  The Montereyans had been exceedingly generous.</p><P>During this epidemic the dead were buried at night.  Men were employed to dig the graves as fast as they could.  I remember hearing that there were thirteen burials in one night, and after the epidemic was over it was reported that upwards of one hundred and thirty had died from the disease.</p><P>At the pest house James Collins and Joe Beals were in charge of the patients, and it was alleged that they drank heavily in order to ward off the disease.  It is scarcely fair to blame them for as the work they had to perform and the sights they saw was enough to drive any man to strong drink.</p><P>It is related, that one day, needing the bunk occupied by a certain patient who was very low, they decided that inasmuch as the man was due to die anyway he might as well die outside of the building as inside, accordingly, they picked the helpless patient up, carried him outside, and laid him on a slab where he reposed all night.  The night was bitterly cold, but, strange to say, this man got well and the patient to whom they gave his bed, died.</p><P>The dead were hauled to the cemetery in a dump cart, and had to cross the San Juan creek; there was no bridge across the creek.  On crossing this creek, one night, the corpse slipped out of the cart whilst the vehicle was going up the steep bank and the attendants did not miss the body until they got to the cemetery, whereupon they retraced their steps and brought back the corpse to its last resting place.</p><P>During the smallpox epidemic in 1868 I was attending Santa Clara College.  It was in October of that year, just before I came home at the end of the school year, that the great earthquake occurred.  Previously there had been slight earthquakes throughout California, but no extensive damage was done until this 'quake in October, 1868.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>In common with the rest of the scholars I had to follow the usual custom of attending chapel services, and that morning I attended the services in the college chapel.  A few minutes after I came out of the chapel an earthquake occurred.</p><P>It was a peculiar tembior in this:  That the earth seemed to roll in waves.  You could see trees swaying to and fro and the violence of the shock threw me to the ground.  However, connected with the 'quake was a circumstance which tends to make one believe in fatalism--that is, when your time comes to cross the divide there is no use of endeavoring to escape the decree.</p><P>Overhanging the seat that I always occupied in the chapel was an immense glass chandelier.  This chandelier weighed fully two hundred pounds.  It was composed of myriads of gas jets and was adorned with hundreds upon hundreds of beautiful glass pendants hanging down, which, when the chandelier was lit, presented a dazzling effect.  This chandelier was shook from its fastenings and crashed down, smashing to pieces on the very seat that I always occupied at morning services.  I often looked back on this happening, and wondered what strange providence was watching over me.</p><P>The chapel of the college was rent in twain diagonally from one end of the roof to the other.  San Jose suffered greatly in this earthquake; but, strange to say San Juan escaped with comparatively little damage, in fact, that great earthquake--for it was the greatest earthquake that had hitherto been experienced by the Yankees who were rapidly settling up California, was not nearly as severe to the Mission San Juan as was the quake of 1880 which leveled to the ground the brick end of the sisters' orphanage at the old mission, exposing both floors of the building at the end.  Near where the brick wall fell out could be seen the dormitories of the little orphans with the neat small cots therein.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">How the town of Hollister was started--San Benito County created--County Seat should have been San Juan--The man who said too many towns were named after saints</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>AGITATION in 1868, commenced to ferment, to a certain extent, about creating a new county out of a portion of Monterey county.  It was spoken of here and there but in the rush and hurly-burly doings of the day but little was thought of it, and it was given scant attention.  However, in the minds of certain prominent men of that section the idea was a very live issue and accordingly Col. Hollister started in to lay out the present city of Hollister.</p><P>It will be remembered, as is related in another portion of these memoirs, that, originally, the Flint-Bixby Company and Col. Hollister formed a partnership and purchased from Don Pacheco the San Justo grant.  Sometime after that purchase this partnership was dissolved and the San Justo grant was divided between the Flint-Bixby Company and Col. Hollister, the latter taking the eastern portion of the grant and the Flint-Bixby Company taking the western portion of the ranch, and paying Hollister a bonus of $10,000 therefor.</p><P>In 1868 Col. Hollister, with a number of other prominent men in that section, formed what was known as the "San Justo Homestead Association."  This association was duly incorporated.  The object in forming the association was to divide this portion of the San Justo grant into farms and sell them to farmers, also to establish a town for the convenience of the purchasers of the land.  This idea of locating a town was used as a means of selling the lands.  Nearly everyone in that section, at that time, were farmers and the idea of acquiring some of these lands found favor.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>The association announced that this land was to be divided into farms and grazing lots.  There were to be fifty-one lots, the fifty-first lot was to be dedicated as a town site.  These lots, or parcels of land as they were called, were sold at auction, the highest premium taking the first choice, which went to pay on the purchase.</p><P>The late Thos. Hawkins, the Hollister banker, purchased the first choice which cost him upwards $6,000.  That sum was considered an enormous price, but as matters developed eventually it showed Hawkins' good judgment and served to justify the confidence bestowed upon that good man in later years.</p><P>Tom Hawkins, afterwards the most prominent citizen of San Benito county, had come there in early days and had worked as a laborer on various projects, principally on hay baling and grain threshing outfits.  At the time that he made this purchase great was the surprise that he, by his patience and thrift, had accumulated such a sum.<ANCHOR ID="n23-1">*</ANCHOR>
133.sgm:<P>There was spirited bidding on the lots and all were sold.  The town of Hollister was laid out in November, 1868.  At a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:meeting of the association it was decided to place the town site about a mile and a half northeast of its present location inasmuch as Hollister had reserved, for himself, a homestead taking in a portion of the present town site, however, after considerable discussion, the idea was abandoned and it was decided to place the town on the site that it now occupies.</p><P>At a meeting it was proposed by someone to call the town "San Justo."  But, a man by the name of Hagen, who was present, arose and vigorously denounced the proposition, saying that he would be blankety-blanked if they called that town by any "San," that he was tired of running across "San" attached to every town that he surveyed--San Juan, San Jose, San Luis Obispo, etc.  After talking the matter over it was decided, by the association, to call the town after Col. Hollister.</p><P>Col. Hollister in 1862 had built, what was considered in those days a fine residence, on Fourth Street opposite where the present court house now stands.  Connected with the residence he had many corrals, sheep pens, and a long string of water troughs lining the roadway in front of his premises.  He also built a large barn which was afterwards occupied by Jim Hodges as a livery stable.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>The Hollister residence was, years afterwards, made into a hotel--the only hotel in that section, outside of San Juan--and was called the Montgomery House owing to the fact that it was conducted by a man by the name of Montgomery.  Mr. Montgomery's son (Edward) years afterwards was treasurer of San Benito county.</p><P>The Montgomery House was very nicely located.  It had much shrubbery and trees about it and was a favorite resort for travelers going and coming.  Sometime around 1884-85 it caught fire from some unknown cause and was burned to the ground.  The land was afterwards purchased by the school district and a grammar and primary school erected thereon.</p><P>The first man to purchase town lots in the new city of Hollister was J. A. Owens.  He purchased two lots for $100 apiece.  The prices on the town lots were $100 for inside lots and $200 for corner lots.</p><P>Owens established the first store in Hollister.  C. W. Wentworth also opened a store and was afterwards appointed postmaster.</p><P>The town started off and began to grow rapidly.  The smallpox had worked great injury to San Juan.  Many of its inhabitants, becoming disheartened at the trials that they had undergone and the sad scenes that they witnessed, moved to Hollister, after buying lots in that town.</p><P>And now Gilroy, a little settlement, began to forge ahead, and, in 1869 the railroad reached this settlement and as it was the nearest point that the railroad could be reached, the travelers desiring to take the trains had to repair to that city.  Gilroy went rapidly ahead.  Prior to this Gilroy was anything but commercially important, but the railroad, making its terminus there, made it the distributing point for all sections south as far as San Luis Obispo, which town, owing to its water connection, did not need railroad facilities.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:the $60,000 asked by the railroad company.  It was a fatal mistake from which both San Juan and Watsonville, (who also refused to give any subsidy) are still suffering.</p><P>San Juan had suffered from the disastrous fire that I have referred to elsewhere; the awful smallpox epidemic; and now, the railroad taking its trade away to Hollister, despair settled upon the community which despair was accentuated when a number of its prominent merchants commenced to move their stocks to Hollister and start business there.</p><P>In 1870 Hollister had a population of about two hundred, and its growth can be judged from the fact that in 1873 a census of its population showed two thousand inhabitants.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">County division and how it was brought about--How the boundary line was gerrymandered--Division lost out at the first election but was carried at the next election</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>IN 1871-72 Monterey county was in the throes of a fight over the removal of its county seat.  It will be remembered that the county seat at that time was Monterey, and a proposition was broached to move the county seat to a more central location in that big county.</p><P>Castroville at the news that the county seat might be moved commenced to perk up.  Juan B. Castro, after whom the town was named, laid the town out in lots, and in order to induce people to settle there would offer them a lot free if they would agree to build on it, the idea being to make it such a populous center that it could carry off the county seat at the proposed election.</p><P>Salinas, then a small settlement, commenced to take stock, and it also got into the fight.</p><P>Then, to add to the turmoil and general unrest, Hollister started a fight for county division; that is, its residents wanted that portion of Monterey set aside and made into a new county.  The excitement throughout Monterey county began to grow.  There were plenty of things to excite men.  Here was a proposition not only to divide the county, but also to move the county seat away from Monterey.</p><P>There were able gerrymanderers on both sides and through some hokus-pokus a line was run from what was then known as the Aromas Valley straight over Fremont's Peak leaving out the Carneros section, wherein lived quite a number of inhabitants that always traded in San Juan; and also left out the Pajaro Valley, which earnestly desired to be included within the confines of the proposed new county.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Hollister had nothing to fear after the line was drawn, she would either have all or nothing.  So the fight started and no stone was left unturned to accomplish the division of the county.</p><P>The election of an essemblyman to the legislature hinged on this county division, and this caused politics to loom up in the fight.  Both Democrats and Republicans forgot all partisanship and would hob-nob and connive with each other.</p><P>At the first election the divisionists lost; but, undismayed those who wanted division girded up their loins, buckled on their armor, and went into the fight for division again.</p><P>To show the intense feeling which existed at that time, at one of the elections held, that grand old man of Monterey county, the late Hon. J. R. Hebron, who was an anti-divisionist, was nominated for assemblyman.  Hebron was one of the leading men in Monterey county, a man of irreproachable character; his standing as a man and as a citizen was unquestionable.  In running for the office of assemblyman he received, out of several hundred votes cast, only eight votes on the San Juan-Hollister side.</p><P>Those interested in dividing Monterey county, notwithstanding that they had lost the first election, did not relax their efforts throughout the two ensuing years, and at the next election by superior political tactics, generalship, and, it was also rumored, by the free use of money and promises, succeeded in electing their man to represent the county in the assembly.  He squeezed through by a small majority.</p><P>This brought the project, or, we might say, contest, of dividing the county, up to the legislature, but the fight did not end there.  The introduction of the bill to divide Monterey county into the legislature, precipitated a hot fight.  The bill was introduced first in the assembly, and then introduced into the senate, and the warring factions tossed the bill back and forth several times.  However, the divisionists, by a hard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:fight, succeeded in getting the measure through and Monterey county lost the fairest portion of its territory.  After it passed the assembly the senate approved the measure by a bare majority.</p><P>Then the divisionists commenced to rejoice, but their rejoicing proved to be somewhat premature, as Governor Newton Booth held the bill up.  The members of the "Third House" made the life of the governor miserable by their insistent demand that he veto the bill.  However, the mass of figures and facts presented in favor of the divisionists could not be gain-sayed and finally Governor Booth signed the bill on the twelfth of February, 1874, and San Benito county was created.</p><P>No credit could be attached to anyone in particular, for the sentiment in favor of division was so wide-spread and universal in this section that all the settlers in the region affected, voted as one man.</p><P>Under the "act" creating the new county Governor Booth appointed five commissioners who were charged with the organization of this new county.  The commissioners were Thos. S. Hawkins, Jess Whitton, Mark Pomeroy, John Breen and H. M. Hayes.</p><P>A few days after their appointment by the governor, this commission met and organized by electing John Breen as president and H. M. Hayes as secretary.</p><P>The commission proceeded to business and divided the county into four townships, namely; Hollister, San Juan, Paicines and San Benito.  The supervisorial districts were: Hollister number one; San Juan number two; Paicines and San Benito number three.</p><P>The county officers were appointed by the governor to hold office until the special election on March 26, 1874.  The county seat was to be located by popular vote.  The officers elected were: Benj. F. Ross, sheriff and ex-official tax collector; H. M. Hayes, county clerk and recorder: N. C. Briggs, district attorney: Thos. McMahon, treasurer: Haydon Dowdy, assessor; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:Frank P. McCray, surveyor; H. C. Morris, superintendent of schools and J. M. Black, coroner and public administrator.  Jas. F. Breen, county judge of Monterey county, resigned that position and was appointed by the governor as county judge of San Benito county.</p><P>The supervisors elected were: District number one, Mark Pomeroy; district number two, Thos. Flint; and district number three, D. J. Watson.</p><P>There was quite a difference between Monterey and the newly created county of San Benito over the matter of the debt of Monterey county.  Monterey county had quite a debt hanging over it, and, of course, a certain proportion of that debt San Benito county had to pay.  An "act" to settle the differences between the two counties was passed by the legislature, but after its passage it was found that it would not solve the difficulty, so the "act" was amended, and under its provisions the Board of Supervisors, of each county, met jointly, and selected a commission of five members to arbitrate the matter.  Two of the committeemen were named by San Benito county, two named by Monterey county and the third was named by the judge of the twentieth judicial district.</p><P>The committee met in session at Salinas, and after examining the books of that county found that Monterey county was in debt, and that of this debt there was chargeable to San Benito county a little over $5,800.  To meet this indebtedness five year bonds were issued at seven percent interest, payable to Monterey county or order.  Accordingly, San Benito county started out with a debt on its taxpayers.</p><P>It will be remembered that in 1872 the subject of dividing Monterey county and creating a new county out of its western portion was being agitated and was defeated at the election in 1872.  This was owing to the fact that there were so many issues before the people; for, be it remembered a big agitation was going on in Monterey county over the removal of the county seat from Monterey.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:would help to placate Monterey's animosity against the division scheme, and would insure the county seat being located at or near Hollister.  But, another rival for the county seat appeared in Paicines.  It was held, and logically too, that Paicines was nearer the center of the new county than was Hollister.  However, when the vote came up, Hollister carried away the prize by virtue of its large population, and San Juan and Paicines were left out in the cold.  Out of this county seat matter there grew an intense animosity against Hollister--a bitter feeling that exists to the present day, especially amongst the older generation.  The San Juan people felt, for years, that they had been unjustly treated in the county seat matter by the people of Hollister.  They claimed, and with great justice too, that their town site was far superior to that of Hollister; that it had a finer climate; was closer to the main line of travel both by railroad and highway; was known all over the country as one of the oldest towns in California, and that its many claims should have been recognized by adding Pajaro Valley to the new county and then placing the county seat at San Juan.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The early newspapers of San Benito County--Rapid growth of Hollister--It becomes a great mart for fine horses and grain</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>THE WEEKLY Hollister Enterprise was established by the late John McGonigle.  Its first issue was in October, 1873, and its last in January 1881, when it merged into a paper called "The Pacific Coast."</p><P>After many vicissitudes the Pacific Coast was merged into the Hollister Free Lance and after that the Farmer's Alliance started a paper known as the West Coast Alliance which ultimately was taken over by several Democrats and renamed the Hollister Bee.</p><P>Under McGonigle's control the Enterprise was the best local paper ever published in the county.  It was always foremost for the advancement of Hollister and vicinity.  Eventually McGonigle went to Ventura and started the Ventura Democrat which he conducted for years.  He, under Cleveland's administration, was appointed collector of the port at that place.</p><P>After his death the paper was bought and renamed the Ventura Post and a year or so ago was merged into the Ventura Star.</p><P>John McGonigle was one of the ablest editors on the Pacific coast.  He was an Irish-Missourian and was Democratic to the backbone.</p><P>The next weekly newspaper started in the new county of San Benito was the Advance, published by a veteran newspaper man by the name of Shaw.  Shaw, who was a relative of the famous writer, George Bernard Shaw, had a large family of boys and one daughter.  The Shaw boys in after years played a conspicuous part in the development of San Benito county.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>There were five papers published in San Juan; the first paper that I remember was the "Central Californian," which was published by Bryerly &amp; Clevenger, in 1869.  The next paper to be launched on the journalistic sea was the "San Juan Echo," published by A. D. Jones in 1870.  In 1880 a school paper was published, but when the school closed the paper was discontinued.  "The San Juan Enterprise" was published in 1893 by Gates &amp; Baptist and the last paper was "The Missing Link" published by J. W. Thomas in 1899.</p><P>The present ably conducted paper, "The San Juan Mission News" has had a longer life than any paper ever started at San Juan.  It is a splendid weekly, and reflects credit upon its town.</p><P>Thos. Beck, of Watsonville, was at the time of the division of the county, senator-elect from Monterey and Santa Cruz counties and had quite a say in the creation of the new county.</p><P>After the creation of San Benito county, Hollister began to grow, and in time became a very flourishing town.  Being of virgin soil, the farmers in that county produced immense crops of hay, wheat and barley.  The hay was always of top-notch quality, and today, is considered second to none in the state.</p><P>Large warehouses were built in Hollister and filled with wheat, barley and hay.</p><P>Hollister also became noted for the good horses and fine stock raised in that section.  The farmers were breeding large draft horses and fine carriage horses.  Some of the finest six-horse teams in the state could be seen day after day drawing immense loads of hay, grain and barley to the warehouses.  Many other teams could be seen standing in line waiting their turn to be unloaded.  It was a great place where horse buyers from San Francisco and other parts of the state repaired to acquire both horses and stock.</p><P>One of the most prominent horse traders as well as horse breeders in that section was Len Ladd, whose extensive ranch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:was about a mile, or a mile and a half, outside of town.  If a call was made for a matched team of horses for draying purposes, for a hearse or a carriage, in fact, any driving purpose, Len Ladd was the man who could supply them at a moment's notice.</p><P>A flour mill was built by J. M. "Baldy" Brown in 1870.  "Baldy," in 1879, sold out this business to Dick Shakelford and a man by the name of Hinds.  The flour mill's product under "Baldy" Brown did not amount to much.  Shakelford and Hinds reconstructed the mill and turned out flour that became statewide in its reputation for good quality.</p><P>Shakelford afterwards went to Templeton and became one of the founders of that town.</p><P>Joaquin Bolado, who came into the county in 1867, had bought some 10,000 acres of land in the Santa Ana and Tres Pinos district sub-divided it into small tracts and sold it to farmers.  This land produced good crops of hay and grain.  Fairview also had been purchased by farmers, and the threshing machine whistle could be heard blowing at Hollister from various points of the compass.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The author's marriage lasted, happily, for forty-one years--The dry year of</HI>
133.sgm: 1877-- <HI REND="italics">Hundreds of families migrating--Poor prices for stock--The trade dollar</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>THE POET says that: "In the spring a young man's fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love."  But this was not my case.</p><P>In the fall of 1876, shortly after coming out of Pleasant Valley,  I persuaded the girl that I thought was the "ownliest one" in the world, Elizabeth Adelia Thorne to become my wife.  You remember I mentioned, elsewhere, the little girl that I used to see and admire through the fence, playing in the yard of her grandparents, Ben and Mary Wilcox, at San Juan.  I used to see this pretty little girl playing in the yard when I was going to, and coming from, school, and the romance that then began, in early days of my boyhood, culminated in her becoming my wife in 1876.</p><P>We were married in the parlor of the Western Hotel in Hollister.  The hotel was then conducted by the Rector Bros., who, after conducting, for some time, the McMahon house in Hollister migrated to Grass Valley, where they became noted bonifaces of northern California.  We were married on the fourth of December.  My wife died, after having undergone an operation, in the Watsonville hospital, on January 31, 1918, after forty-one years of married life.  We had four children: Edna, now Mrs. Ernest Sherwood, of Watsonville; Cora, now Mrs. R. D. Monroe, of Monterey, and our sons were Oscar, now living in Watsonville, and Earl, residing in Monterey.</p><P>As I have remarked before, 1877 was a dry year.  To those who have never passed through a dry year, in the southern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:part of the state, the words "dry year" mean but little.  But, to those afflicted by a shortage of feed and crops, the term "dry year" strikes terror.</p><P>The Pajaro Valley in that year produced some crops but San Benito county and in the southern part of the state the conditions were distressful owing to the drought.</p><P>I was, at the time of this drought, living in the Wilcox home at the end of The Alameda at the extension of Third street, San Juan, which led to the Salinas road.  Having ten acres which contained a good well, on part of this tract I raised a fine vegetable garden.  I was on the direct road from the southern travel going north, and in a position where I could see all the wagons passing, and, indeed, some days there were strings of them.  These wagons generally consisted of people migrating from the south in search of better living conditions in the north.  The wagons, usually of the covered type, were occupied by a driver and his family.  In some other part of the state they had nailed up their home, and with hopeful resignation started out on this journey in search of some place where a living might be made.  Most of these migratory families were folks who had taken up claims in southern Monterey or San Luis Obispo counties, or in counties further south.  If any of these immigrants were asked where they were going, their reply would be indefinite--they had no place picked out.</p><P>You could sell nothing.  I have seen a finely matched team, well broken, go begging for $40.</p><P>Arthur Graham, a butcher in San Juan, in partnership with the Flint-Bixby Co., rented my father's place and erected thereon some large kettles.  Graham furnished the hogs and Flint-Bixby &amp; Co., furnished the sheep to be slaughtered, for hog feed.  The Flint-Bixby Co., figured that by killing the older sheep thus reducing the herds, and keeping only the young ones, that they could pull through the dry season, and so the slaughter commenced.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:county.  He was re-elected, many terms, as assessor, and under Cleveland's administration he retired from the assessor's office and was appointed postmaster at Hollister.  His son, Elmer Dowdy for the past twenty-six years has been county clerk, auditor, and recorder of that county.  Hayden Dowdy, at the time that I am speaking of, owned a very fine farm in the San Juan Valley.  This farm, which is still owned by his descendants, is considered one of the finest farms in the valley.</p><P>Riding along San Benito street, in Hollister, that day we passed the Bank of Hollister, whereupon Dowdy remarked, "Mylar, the country is pretty hard up.  Do you know that I could not borrow two hundred dollars from that bank on my fine ranch."</p><P>In passing let me remark that we should hold in grateful remembrance the memory of Woodrow Wilson who gave us the reserve banks to stop any future panics.  In looking over the record books in those days it was ascertained that over ninety per cent of the farms in San Benito county were mortgaged.</p><P>In 1878 there was no rain up to about the middle of January.  The fall of 1878 had also been dry, and I, being afraid that another dry year was in prospect, made up my mind to go to some region where it would rain.  With my wife and little baby, I set sail, via steamer, for Oregon.  It was raining when we got there.  I had an uncle living in Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia river, and so we stopped with this relative.  I had shipped up there all our household goods in large boxes, sending them to my uncle.  When I unpacked the goods I was going to destroy the boxes but my uncle told me to save them.  I inquired, "Why?"  He merely told me that I might need them, and, accordingly, I put them away safely.</p><P>Soon after I procured a very good position from the government.  But, it rained! and rained! and rained! I got a sou'wester, a pair of rubbers, and a raincoat.  My wife said that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:she could not dry the wash outside and so a rack had to be put in the kitchen for this purpose.  Coming up, the voyage being stormy, my wife was dreadfully sea-sick, and on landing on terra firma declared that never would she go back to California until a railroad was built between the two states.  But, in five months, she told me that she had had enough of rain to suit her for the rest of her life and that, if I was willing, she would start with me for California again.</p><P>So the packing boxes came in handy.  My uncle proved to be wise unto his generation.  I remember one day asking him if they ever had a dry day in Astoria, and he contemplatively looked out at the mouth of the Columbia river and answered, "Yes, we have three dry days in August every year!"  Looking back over those days I cannot remember, during my stay there, of one single day that it did not rain sometime during the twenty-four hours.</p><P>So, buying a ticket from the steamship company, we returned to California and it certainly did look good to me when I once more reached it.  I have never left it since.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Some of the notable characters in San Juan that the author remembers--Mark Regan, the noted stage driver--The disappearance of Senor Sanchez--Buried treasure</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>IN 1870 Jake Beuttler (the brewer) came to San Juan and located on the north side of Third Street.  At this place he built a residence and a brewery.  Beuttler, together with his stepson Fred Beck, manufactured a fine quality of beer.  This beer was the favorite beverage in the central part of the coast counties.  He also ran a four-horse delivery wagon through the San Joaquin Valley as far as Firebaugh's Ferry, on the San Joaquin river, which, in those days, was a very lively settlement.  There were shearing pens at Firebaugh, in which, in shearing seasons, over 100,000 sheep were sheared.  Beuttler had three childrern: George, Albert and Annie.  Annie afterwards became the wife of the noted stage driver, Mark Regan--"the grand old man of the whip."</p><P>Mark Regan was a noted character, and did more to keep San Juan on the map than any other citizen that the town ever possessed.  He ran the stage, for years from Sargent station, where it connected with the railroad, to San Juan, and Hollister.  He never drank, smoked or gambled.  He came originally from Pike's Peak during the gold rush.</p><P>In his day he carried more distinguished people over his stage route than any other driver in the state of California.  Everyone knew Mark Regan, a man of infinite jest, and one of the greatest of story-tellers.  To hear Mark describe the driving of the last spike at Promotory, Utah, connecting the two railroads, the Central Pacific and the Union Pacific, was a masterpiece of verbal description.  Mark is authority for the statement that it was at the driving of the last spike that George Pullman got his idea for his Pullman sleeping cars.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:had been in San Jose and had received a large amount of money, the weight of which caused his horse and himself to mire into the quicksand.  Neither the horse nor the man were ever seen again.</p><P>Facing the Sanchez' home, on the east, was a hill.  It was quite a large hill, and the rumor grew that Sanchez had buried an immense amount of gold dust and money in that hill.  In consequence of this rumor every now and then people would repair to the hill and dig hither and thither, according to directions that they had received from fortune tellers.  Some had divining rods to point out the buried gold, others depended upon plats and maps that were furnished, (for a consideration), by the fortune tellers.  But, somehow or another, no money was ever found by the treasure seekers.  It is worthy of note that, so far as I know, no San Juan people ever went to that hill to dig for the supposed buried treasure.  Those who sought the gold were from San Jose, Watsonville, San Francisco and other parts of the state.</p><P>This reminds me of another supposed buried treasure in this section.  In the early days two men were hung in the vicinity of the "San Juan Rocks," near Dunbarton.  The rumor spread that the two men had buried some eight or ten thousand dollars in that neighborhood and some people are actually searching for that treasure yet.  Another place that was extensively mined was the glass house that occupied a prominent place on the Salinas road on the site where the Watsonville golf club is now located.  Buried treasure was supposed to be plentiful in that vicinity and many were the expeditions that set out to resurrect treasure trove.</p><P>However, soon after Sanchez disappeared, his family, searching for some of the treasure that they knew he possessed, found $1,300 in a barrel of beans, in the storeroom of the dwelling, and a great many persons believe that this amount represented all the money that Sanchez had.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:Wiggin's father refused to send him the money but settled a trust fund on the son, the interest of which provided him with a comfortable yearly annuity.  This enabled him to live in comfort and he subsequently settled at the Plaza Hotel in San Juan, where he roomed and boarded for years.  He was singular in this: He ate but two meals a day--breakfast at nine o'clock and dinner at five o'clock.  He lived a gentleman's life.  He was a rather small man in size, and wore a Prince Albert coat and a white hat which made him a distinctive person amongst the rest of San Juan's inhabitants.  He pursued a regular routine.  He would make a trip to Kemp's saloon in the forenoon and then another one in the afternoon and taking his place at one of the deserted card tables would play, day after day, solitaire.  If asked to take a drink, unless the time was within a few minutes of his scheduled period wherein he "liquidated" his thirst each day, he would refuse the proffered courtesy.  Two drinks a day was all he allowed himself; one in the forenoon and one in the afternoon.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<illus entity="a133-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Jim Jacks--"China Jim"--the "Mustard King."  This benevolent Chinaman was known far and wide for his charitable deeds.  Everyone in San Benito County had a kindly smile and a friendly handclasp for this man who was always endeavoring, in his humble and simple way, to do good.</p></CAPTION>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Wages were low in</HI>
133.sgm: 1878-- <HI REND="italics">Long hours were worked--Farmers not doing well--Some old settlers--Tribute to "China Jim," whose charity was unbounded</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>THE YEAR 1878 was a quiet but a good year as far as the farmers were concerned.  However, there were thousands of idle men in the state.  Wages were low.  Farmers got all the help they wanted at $1.00 and $1.50 a day, with board, but the laborer had to furnish his own blankets and could sleep any place he liked.  The working hours were from daylight until dark.  The men driving teams had to look after their team and wagon on Sundays.  That is, all necessary repairs were made on the wagon, and the horses had to be in prime condition for another week's work.  This condition of affairs remained as long as the farmers raised grain.  It would appear that from these conditions that the farmers should ere long become wealthy, but such was not the case.  They were not doing any too well.  Owing to the short seasons that came, and the fluctuation of prices, the average price of wheat, per cental, in 1864, and for twenty years thereafter, was around $1.60, and barley was a great deal lower than that.  I remember one year when there was a good crop of barley raised in the San Juan section.  One farmer had 15,000 sacks (100 pounds to the sack) of ripe, plump barley.  This barley usually brought a good price for brewing purposes, but, this season, all that farmer was offered for his crop was fifty cents a cental, and out of this he had to subtract the price of sacks and threshing which was twenty cents; out of the remaining thirty cents he had to subtract the cost of putting in the crop and storing it and hauling it to market.  The number of failures, especially amongst those who farmed land on shares, was notable.  They were going broke on all sides.  So it can be seen from the foregoing, that it was not all skittles and beer for the farmers.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:Neither of them have ever married.  It is hard to tell who is the boss of that household, everything surrounding their home goes so quietly and smoothly.</p><P>The estate of the late John Breen, the adobe and a portion of the land, is still occupied by Mr. Breen's heirs.  The Patrick and Edward J. Breen, estates are also in the possession of their heirs.</p><P>Jas. Stanley, who had a harness shop on the west side of Third street, between Mokelumne and Polk streets, was an Irishman.  He was famous for work in his line and put up some of the most durable harness that could be procured in this state.</p><P>At his home, on the northwest corner of Tuolumne and Third streets, he erected a barn, and, buying two or three of the largest steers he could find, would feed them and fatten them solely for the purpose of showing the San Juanites how the Irish people in the "Auld Dart" handled cattle.  The steers were fed everything that would fatten them.  They were curried and brushed and blanketed.  No thoroughbred race horse received better care.  He would sell these animals for Christmas beef to butchers in San Francisco.  Some of these steers would weigh nearly a ton.  It is impossible to conceive that these fattened steers ever paid Stanley for the care that he bestowed upon them.  It was an obsession upon the part of Stanley, who desired to show folks that when it came to raising cattle no one could surpass the Irish farmer.</p><P>Henry Beger carried on a boot and shoe store on the southwest corner of Mokelumne and Third streets.</p><P>Julius Brietbarth, who bought the southeast corner of Mariposa and Third streets, and conducted a boot and shoe business there, was known for the fine stock of goods that he carried in his line.  Julius and his family lived in a part of this building.  He was considered one of the best shoe and boot makers in this section of the state.  It must be remembered that in the early days bootmaking was done by hand.  As boots <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:were generally worn, an artisan superior in this line usually gained wide recognition.  Julius was a very jovial man when away from the shop which gave rise to the rumor that sometimes things were not pleasant at home.  On one occasion, he took a shot at himself, but his suicidal attempt failed.  After accumulating quite a competence, he died, leaving all he possessed to his wife.</p><P>A noted character in his day, in San Juan, was John Anderson, commonly known as "The Tinsmith."  Anderson conducted a tinware store in the building formerly occupied by McMahon's merchandise store, on the southeast corner of Polk and Third street.  Like all early artisans, Anderson was not only a good tinsmith but he carried an excellent stock of goods as well.  He married a young woman who had formerly been in the employ of the Flint-Bixby Company as a cook. It was rumored, from time to time, that he made life unpleasant for his wife.  After her death he married Mrs. Julius Brietbarth and moved his tinware store to the Brietbarth building previously mentioned.  A rumor became prevalent that all was not harmonious between Anderson and his second wife, owing to the fact that he admitted that he had to sleep in the tank-house connected with the residence.  However, their married life did not last long.  Mrs. Anderson, the second, in due time, passed away and, having no heirs, all her property, which amounted to considerable, passed to John Anderson.  John held on to his means tighter than the bark on a tree but, eventually, the Grim Reaper came along and carried John away.  Not knowing what to do with the property at his death, he bequeathed it all to the I.O.O.F. lodge of San Juan, of which he was a member.</p><P>So goes the weaving and spinning and cutting of the threads of life!</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX</HEAD>
133.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Flint-Bixby Co.'s sheep enterprise in early days--Some of the Business houses between</HI>
133.sgm: 1870 <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
133.sgm: 1880-- <HI REND="italics">In later years many changes in San Juan took place</HI>
133.sgm:</p><P>WHEN the Flint-Bixby Co., drove across the plains their band of sheep it numbered upwards of four thousand head.  Afterwards they sent east, to Vermont, and had shipped to them a French Merino buck which, at one time, when sheared, yielded forty-two pounds of wool.  The rapidity with which the Flint-Bixby Co.'s herd multiplied may be imagined from the fact that it took from fifteen to twenty men to herd and look after the sheep.  The company was the first to introduce into California the Spanish Merino sheep, which also were brought from Vermont.  The climate, combined with the abundance of feed, caused the flocks to multiply rapidly.  The company made it a point to hire none but Americans to shear their sheep, and it was not long ere it took sixteen shearers from fifty to sixty days to shear the flocks.  The shearer would average close to one hundred sheared sheep a day, and the pay was six and a quarter cents for each sheep.  In addition to this stipend the shearers received their board and lodging.  They were always comfortably lodged, in a large bunk-house, which contained an enormous fireplace.</p><P>At times scab was prevalent amongst the sheep, and this disease was cured by driving the sheep into a long narrow vat, filled with boiled tobacco juice.  The long trough, containing this juice, was constructed in such a fashion that the sheep had to swim through it from one end to the other, thus completely covering and soaking their fleeces with the tobacco juice.  From the trough the sheep made their way up into a large pen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:which contained a slanting floor.  This slant conducted the tobacco juice that ran off the sheeps' bodies back into the trough.  The yearlings would be shorn in the fall.</p><P>The fame of their herd spread throughout the state, and they had a splendid trade in selling bucks to other flock owners who desired to improve the quality of their herds.</p><P>The Flint-Bixby Company were interested in various enterprises amongst which might be mentioned the Coast Line Stage Company, The Serra Benito Quicksilver Company, and the California Beet Sugar Company.</p><P>Of the Flint family the following sons of Dr. Flint survive: Thomas Flint, Jr., who resides in Hollister and Richard Flint, who runs a dairy on the bank of the San Benito river, on the site of the old crossing, where the travelers in early days took the road leading to the San Joaquin Valley, via the Pacheco Pass.  Benjamin Flint, now deceased, at the time of his death, owned a place on the south bank of the San Benito river on the west side of the grant.  He was a son of Benjamin Flint, Sr.</p><P>Herewith are some of the business houses that were in San Juan between 1870 and 1880.</p><P>The brick building, now occupied by the Abbe Company, has sheltered many tenants.  After the big fire in San Juan, that destroyed so much property on Third street, Dan Harris moved into this building, which the fire had not touched.  In it he conducted a merchandise store.  Eventually Dan turned over the business to his brother, Sam Harris.  Sam, after conducting this business for a year or so, sold out to another partner and went to Santa Clara.</p><P>William Prescott, son of one of the earliest settlers in the San Juan Valley, still lives on the home place and is one of the most highly respected men in the valley.  The elder Prescott was the first settler in the San Juan Valley that bored for and obtained artesian water.  He also enjoyed the distinction of being the first farmer in the valley to set out an orchard.  After <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>One of the old-timers well and favorably known throughout San Benito county until his death was William Burnett.  Mr. Burnett was, at one time, sheriff of San Benito county and has ever since been credited as the only sheriff that ever came out of office with any money.  Jere Croxon, present sheriff of the county, is married to one of Mr. Burnett's daughters.  Burnett was a former stage driver and in early days ran an independent stage line between Monterey and San Juan.  In after years he ran a stage from San Juan to New Idria.  It was Burnett's stage that passed a half hour earlier than usual going towards New Idria on the day that Vasquez raided Paicines, and killed three men.  Burnett's farm is the first farm north of the Middle of the Lane.</p><P>From 1872 to 1880, San Juan began to recover from the many misfortunes that had overtaken her, the principal one being the smallpox epidemic.</p><P>Business commenced to start up in the old town.  Ike Oderkirk established a fine blacksmith shop on the corner of Second and Tuolumne streets.  He had five men employed and they were all kept busy.</p><P>Samuel Waldenburg, who had married Hulda, daughter of E. A. Reynolds, started a general merchandise store located on the west side of Second street, between Tuolumne and Jefferson streets.  After leaving San Juan, Waldenburg conducted the hotel at Firebaugh's ferry, on the San Joaquin river.  This he conducted with success for many years.</p><P>James Collins and John Silk ran a saloon located close to Waldenburg's store.</p><P>On the northwest corner of Jefferson and Secon streets, Morris Sullivan built and conducted a general merchandise store.</p><P>On the southwest corner of Jefferson and Second streets George Pullen built and conducted a livery stable.  Pullen, at that time, was proprietor of the National Hotel.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:entered it, one day, for a purchase, and was waited on by Lizzie Cortney, the daughter of William Cortney.  The girl had her jaws tied up and declared the affliction was mumps.  Thinking that I had had all the diseases that a person was heir to I did not give it another thought.  But, in a few days, I was laid up in bed with the mumps.  I lived in a home, on the opposite side of the street, that had been occupied by William Prescott, he having lived there for a short time.  In the bedroom I occupied some one had written with a pencil, "This is hell!"  It seems the writer of the assertion had been confined there with the same disease.  William Cortney later, sold his business in San Juan and located in Watsonville, on the east side of Main street, in a building that is now known as the "Kimona Shop."  At that time he conducted it as a hotel.</p><P>Chas. Fowler, Jr., the son of Chas. Fowler who owned a farm in the Springfield district and ran a threshing machine for years, married Lizzie Cortney.  Chas. Fowler, Jr., was the brother of Mrs. Jack Shea, of Brennan street, Watsonville.</p><P>The proprietor of the Plaza Hotel was A. Camours and the Plaza livery stable was conducted by A. Zanetta.</p><P>Dr. C. G. Cargill, who opened a well appointed drug store in connection with his practice, was appointed postmaster and was agent for Wells Fargo &amp; Company's Express.  Later, when the telephone came in vogue, he also had this office in connection with his other enterprises.</p><P>The San Antonio Rancho had been partitioned and sold.  Joseph Machado had bought the southeast lot of twelve hundred acres on which he had a dairy.  The highway from San Juan to Salinas now runs through his tract.</p><P>Adjoining, on the west, was McAbee with another large acreage.  On the west from this was a lot bought by T. McMahon.  Of two of these lots one was sold to Phillip Dougherty, who was afterwards killed in the town of Hollister by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:being thrown from a wagon.  Tom Conner bought the other lot.  These lots lie one on each side of the "Rocks Road," between San Juan and Watsonville.</p><P>Dan Wilson also owned land on both sides of the Watsonville road.  This land extended to the road from San Juan to Sargent station.  The line bounds the cemetery, on the west.</p><P>North from Wilson's place is the J. B. McKee farm; north of McKee's place John Mulligan resided.  The E. J. Breen and Patrick Breen lands were farmed by renters, as was also a part of the San Justo Rancho.</p><P>Many people traded in San Juan, and, on Sunday, you would see them attending the churches, Protestant, and the old mission church.</p><P>The sisters of the convent could be seen marching their children, about fifty or sixty in number, to church.  You could meet men from all around the country.  Everyone was getting along nicely and appeared satisfied.  Times continued this way for some time and then the town began to slump.  First one would move away and then another.</p><P>The farmers on the San Antonio Rancho all moved away.  The merchants left, the blacksmith shop proprietors and other tradesmen did likewise.  The convent sisters took their little orphans and departed for Los Angeles.  Some of the waifs were sent to the Santa Cruz Orphans' school, others were taken to the southern city.  In the old mission yard, where you were wont to hear the merry prattle of children at play, could be seen cattle grazing.  Petty thieves had ransacked the dormitories and rooms of the building where the orphan children had been maintained and had robbed the rooms of their furnishings and all paraphernalia that could be carried away.  The two-story brick building that was used for a school room and dormitory, as well, the bricks and other material, were sold.  Instead of the usual crowd that, formerly would be seen, on Sundays, coming along the corridor from the masses in the old mission, there were but a few left.  The Protestant church, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:<P>Soon work on the cement plant commenced, and a large force of men were engaged in pouring cement and laying the foundations.</p><P>Geo. Tremaine, who owned a fine orchard in San Juan canyon, divided his holdings up into lots, many of which were sold.</p><P>One day the cement plant's train of cars came into the old mission town and San Juan had a railroad at last.  The first freight agent appointed on the new railroad was Mark Regan.  He was freight agent, conductor and brakeman and on all the passes that he issued he signed himself superintendent of the San Juan-Portland Cement Co.'s Railroad.  He had a bus at the little station and his driver would take you to any part of the town.</p><P>Soon after the railroad was completed, from Chittenden to the cement plant site, the machinery for the plant began to arrive.  The place became a beehive of industry.  Some of the pieces of machinery used in the plant were so long that they were stretched on top of from two to three flat cars.  Some of the machinery weighed tons, in fact, all the machinery for the plant was very heavy.  This machinery and steel to be used in the plant kept constantly arriving and when stretched out on the ground covered fully two or three acres of the plant's holdings.</p><P>Then something happened!  The men were laid off.  They hung around for a while.  Surely this big enterprise could not stop now.  Over half a million dollars were invested in the enterprise.  But, everything connected with it stopped.  The men who had thus far managed the project went away, and everything connected with the undertaking was left in a state of confusion.</p><P>The machinery was left on the ground to rust, so was the locomotive, standing idly by, and thus it remained until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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133.sgm:some of the creditors came to San Juan and shipped a large portion of the machinery and other paraphernalia away.  San Juan was left to sink into the slough of despondency, again.</p><P>After a while--some time after--a new company was formed who took over the holdings of the former promoters and shipped in there the necessary machinery and commenced work without any preliminary fussing or blowing.</p><P>While this cement industry has helped San Juan, in a way, it has not been what the people had been led to expect as regards the great benefit which they would derive from it.</p><P>Poor old San Juan Bautista!  You have seen many happy and many despondent days.  You have been knocked down and dragged out, kicked, and cuffed, and almost took the count; but, still you are in the ring.  San Juan has had many handicaps.  She never could expand on account of the large landownings in her immediate vicinity.  Imagine the result had Col. Hollister retained the west half of the San Juan Valley in place of the east half.</p><P>Concluding these memoirs, I feel that I have not done justice to the memory of those early pioneers, or their descendants, of Old San Juan Bautista.</p><P>They stand out clearly in my mind as the best there is in humanity.</p><P>True friendship is a rare gem; I found it in that old mission town.</p><P>Looking backward, the ever-changing kaleidoscope of life, brings recollections of some very pleasant memories, as well as some sad ones.</p><P>It is hard to realize the great changes that have taken place in the old home town; for San Juan Bautista will always be "home town" to me.</p><P>FAREWELL</p></DIV>
134.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-134</TITLE>
134.sgm:<TITLE>My first summer in the Sierra, by John Muir; with illustrations from drawings made by the author in 1869 and from photographs by Herbert W. Gleason: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
134.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
134.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
134.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
134.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
134.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
134.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
134.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>11-14183</LCCN>
134.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
134.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 289773</COPYRIGHT>
134.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>By John Muir</P>
134.sgm:<P>MY FIRST SUMMER IN THE SIERRA.  Illustrated.</P>
134.sgm:<P>STICKEEN: The Story of a Dog.</P>
134.sgm:<P>OUR NATIONAL PARKS.  Illustrated Holiday Edition.</P>
134.sgm:<P>HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY</P>
134.sgm:<P>BOSTON AND NEW YORK</P>
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134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">My First Summer in the Sierra</HI>
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134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Liberty Cap, with Vernal and Nevada Falls</HI>
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134.sgm:<P>My First Summer</P>
134.sgm:<P>in the Sierra</P>
134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">By</HI>
134.sgm:<P>John Muir</P>
134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">With Illustrations from Drawings</HI>
134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">made by the Author in 1869</HI>
134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">and from Photographs by</HI>
134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Herbert W. Gleason</HI>
134.sgm:<P>BOSTON AND NEW YORK</P>
134.sgm:<P>HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY</P>
134.sgm:<P>The Riverside Press Cambridge</P>
134.sgm:<P>1911</P>
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134.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1911, BY JOHN MUIR</P>
134.sgm:<P>ALL RIGHTS RESERVED</P>
134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Published June 1911</HI>
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134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">To</HI>
134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Sierra Club of California</HI>
134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Faithful Defender of</HI>
134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">the People's Playgrounds</HI>
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134.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Illustrations</HI>
134.sgm:<P>PLATES<LB>     Reproduced from photographs by Herbert W. Gleason, several of which were taken while in the company of the author, who is seen in the one facing page 216.<LB>LIBERTY CAP, WITH VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
134.sgm:<LB>WHITE MARIPOSA TULIP ( <HI REND="italics">Calochortus albus</HI>
134.sgm: )<HSEP>22<LB>A FOREST BROOK<HSEP>46<LB>A SUGAR PINE<HSEP>68<LB>A MOUNTAIN STREAM<HSEP>112<LB>A GLACIAL BOULDER<HSEP>134<LB>THUNDER-STORM OVER YOSEMITE<HSEP>166<LB>FOLIAGE AND CONES OF SIERRA HEMLOCK ( <HI REND="italics">Tsuga Mertensiana</HI>
134.sgm: )<HSEP>204<LB>MAGNIFICENT SILVER FIRS (MR. MUIR IN FOREGROUND)<HSEP>216<LB>TUOLUMNE MEADOW FROM CATHEDRAL PEAK<HSEP>266<LB>SIERRA RANGE FROM MONO CRATER<HSEP>308<LB>IN TUOLUMNE SEQUOIA GROVE<HSEP>350<LB>ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT<LB>From sketches made by the author in 1869.<LB>HORSESHOE BEND, MERCED RIVER<HSEP>17<LB>ON SECOND BENCH.  EDGE OF THE MAIN FOREST BELT, ABOVE COULTERVILLE, NEAR GREELEY'S MILL<HSEP>21<LB>CAMP, NORTH FORK OF THE MERCED<HSEP>41</P>
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134.sgm:<P>MOUNTAIN LIVE OAK ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus chrysolepis</HI>
134.sgm: ), EIGHT FEET IN DIAMETER<HSEP>50<LB>SUGAR PINE<HSEP>67<LB>DOUGLAS SQUIRREL OBSERVING BROTHER MAN<HSEP>92<LB>DIVIDE BETWEEN THE TUOLUMNE AND THE MERCED, BELOW HAZEL GREEN<HSEP>115<LB>TRACK OF SINGING DANCING GRASSHOPPER IN THE AIR OVER NORTH DOME<HSEP>186<LB>ABIES MAGNIFICA (MT. CLARK, TOP OF SOUTH DOME, MT. STARR KING)<HSEP>191<LB>ILLUSTRATING GROWTH OF NEW PINE FROM BRANCH BELOW THE BREAK OF AXIS OF SNOW-CRUSHED TREE<HSEP>193<LB>APPROACH OF DOME CREEK TO YOSEMITE<HSEP>201<LB>JUNIPERS IN TENAYA CAN&tilde;ON<HSEP>221<LB>VIEW OF TENAYA LAKE SHOWING CATHEDRAL PEAK<HSEP>263<LB>ONE OF THE TRIBUTARY FOUNTAINS OF THE TUOLUMNE CAN&tilde;ON WATERS,ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE HOFFMAN RANGE<HSEP>265<LB>GLACIER MEADOW, ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE TUOLUMNE, 9500 FEET ABOVE THE SEA<HSEP>274<LB>MONO LAKE AND VOLCANIC CONES, LOOKING SOUTH<HSEP>306<LB>HIGHEST MONO VOLCANIC CONES (NEAR VIEW)<HSEP>307<LB>ONE OF THE HIGHEST MT. RITTER FOUNTAINS<HSEP>323<LB>GLACIER MEADOW STREWN WITH MORAINE BOULDERS, 10,000 FEET ABOVE THE SEA (NEAR MT. DANA)<HSEP>333<LB>FRONT OF CATHEDRAL PEAK<HSEP>335<LB>VIEW OF UPPER TUOLUMNE VALLEY<HSEP>340</P>
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134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">My First Summer in the Sierra</HI>
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134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">My First Summer in the Sierra</HI>
134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">1869</HI>
134.sgm:<P>IN the great Central Valley of California there are only two seasons, --spring and summer.  The spring begins with the first rainstorm, which usually falls in November.  In a few months the wonderful flowery vegetation is in full bloom, and by the end of May it is dead and dry and crisp, as if every plant had been roasted in an oven.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Then the lolling, panting flocks and herds are driven to the high, cool, green pastures of the Sierra.  I was longing for the mountains about this time, but money was scarce and I could n't see how a bread supply was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:to be kept up.  While I was anxiously brooding on the bread problem, so troublesome to wanderers, and trying to believe that I might learn to live like the wild animals, gleaning nourishment here and there from seeds, berries, etc., sauntering and climbing in joyful independence of money or baggage, Mr. Delaney, a sheep-owner, for whom I had worked a few weeks, called on me, and offered to engage me to go with his shepherd and flock to the headwaters of the Merced and Tuolumne rivers, --the very region I had most in mind.  I was in the mood to accept work of any kind that would take me into the mountains whose treasures I had tasted last summer in the Yosemite region.  The flock, he explained, would be moved gradually higher through the successive forest belts as the snow melted, stopping for a few weeks at the best places we came to.  These I thought would be good centres of observation from which I might be able to make many telling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:excursions within a radius of eight or ten miles of the camps to learn something of the plants, animals, and rocks; for he assured me that I should be left perfectly free to follow my studies.  I judged, however, that I was in no way the right man for the place, and freely explained my shortcomings, confessing that I was wholly unacquainted with the topography of the upper mountains, the streams that would have to be crossed, and the wild sheep-eating animals, etc.; in short that, what with bears, coyotes, rivers, can&tilde;ons, and thorny, bewildering chaparral, I feared that half or more of his flock would be lost.  Fortunately these shortcomings seemed insignificant to Mr. Delaney.  The main thing, he said, was to have a man about the camp whom he could trust to see that the shepherd did his duty, and he assured me that the difficulties that seemed so formidable at a distance would vanish as we went on; encouraging me further by saying that the shepherd would do all the herding, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>I was fortunate in getting a fine St. Bernard dog for a companion.  His master, a hunter with whom I was slightly acquainted, came to me as soon as he heard that I was going to spend the summer in the Sierra and begged me to take his favorite dog, Carlo, with me, for he feared that if he were compelled to stay all summer on the plains the fierce heat might be the death of him.  "I think I can trust you to be kind to him," he said, "and I am sure he will be good to you.  He knows all about the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--This morning provisions, camp-kettles, blankets, plant-press, etc., were packed on two horses, the flock headed for the tawny foothills, and away we sauntered in a cloud of dust: Mr. Delaney, bony and tall, with sharply hacked profile like Don Quixote, leading the pack-horses, Billy, the proud shepherd, a Chinaman and a Digger <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The home ranch from which we set out is on the south side of the Tuolumne River near French Bar, where the foothills of metamorphic gold-bearing slates dip below the stratified deposits of the Central Valley.  We had not gone more than a mile before some of the old leaders of the flock showed by the eager, inquiring way they ran and looked ahead that they were thinking of the high pastures they had enjoyed last summer.  Soon the whole flock seemed to be hopefully excited, the mothers calling their lambs, the lambs replying in tones wonderfully human, their fondly quavering calls interrupted now and then by hastily snatched mouthfuls of withered grass.  Amid all this seeming babel of baas as they streamed over the hills every mother and child recognized each other's voice.  In case a tired lamb, half asleep in the smothering dust, should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The flock traveled at the rate of about a mile an hour, outspread in the form of an irregular triangle, about a hundred yards wide at the base, and a hundred and fifty yards long, with a crooked, ever-changing point made up of the strongest foragers, called the "leaders," which, with the most active of those scattered along the ragged sides of the "main body," hastily explored nooks in the rocks and bushes for grass and leaves; the lambs and feeble old mothers dawdling in the rear were called the "tail end."</P>
134.sgm:<P>About noon the heat was hard to bear; the poor sheep panted pitifully and tried to stop in the shade of every tree they came to, while we gazed with eager longing through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:the dim burning glare toward the snowy mountains and streams, though not one was in sight.  The landscape is only wavering foothills roughened here and there with bushes and trees and out-cropping masses of slate.  The trees, mostly the blue oak ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus Douglasii</HI>
134.sgm: ), are about thirty to forty feet high, with pale blue-green leaves and white bark, sparsely planted on the thinnest soil or in crevices of rocks beyond the reach of grass fires.  The slates in many places rise abruptly through the tawny grass in sharp lichen covered slabs like tombstones in deserted burying-grounds.  With the exception of the oak and four or five species of manzanita and ceanothus, the vegetation of the foothills is mostly the same as that of the plains.  I saw this region in the early spring, when it was a charming landscape garden full of birds and bees and flowers.  Now the scorching weather makes everything dreary.  The ground is full of cracks, lizards glide about on the rocks, and ants in amazing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>After a short noon rest in a grove, the poor dust-choked flock was again driven ahead over the brushy hills, but the dim roadway we had been following faded away <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Camping in the foothills with a flock of sheep is simple and easy, but far from pleasant.  The sheep were allowed to pick what they could find in the neighborhood until after sunset, watched by the shepherd, while the others gathered wood, made a fire, cooked, unpacked and fed the horses, etc.  About dusk the weary sheep were gathered on the highest open spot near camp, where they willingly bunched close together, and after each mother had found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Supper was announced by the call, "Grub!"  Each with a tin plate helped himself direct from the pots and pans while chatting about such camp studies as sheep feed, mines, coyotes, bears, or adventures during the memorable gold days of paydirt.  The Indian kept in the background, saying never a word, as if he belonged to another species.  The meal finished, the dogs were fed, the smokers smoked by the fire, and under the influences of fullness and tobacco the calm that settled on their faces seemed almost divine, something like the mellow meditative glow portrayed on the countenances of saints.  Then suddenly, as if awakening from a dream, each with a sigh or a grunt knocked the ashes out of his pipe, yawned, gazed at the fire a few moments, said, "Well, I believe I'll turn in," and straightway vanished beneath his blankets.  The fire smouldered and flickered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The camp was astir at day break; coffee, bacon, and beans formed the breakfast, followed by quick dish-washing and packing.  A general bleating began about sunrise.  As soon as a mother ewe arose, her lamb came bounding and bunting for its breakfast, and after the thousand youngsters had been suckled the flock began to nibble and spread.  The restless wethers with ravenous appetites were the first to move, but dared not go far from the main body.  Billy and the Indian and the Chinaman kept them headed along the weary road, and allowed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The pack-animals were led by Don Quixote, a heavy rifle over his shoulder intended for bears and wolves.  This day has been as hot and dusty as the first, leading over gently sloping brown hills, with mostly the same vegetation, excepting the strange-looking Sabine pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus Sabiniana</HI>
134.sgm: ), which here forms small groves or is scattered among the blue oaks.  The trunk divides at a height of fifteen or twenty feet into two or more stems, outleaning or nearly upright, with many straggling branches and long gray needles, casting but little shade.  In general appearance this tree looks more like a palm than a pine.  The cones are about six or seven inches long, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--This morning a few hours after setting out with the crawling sheep-cloud, we gained the summit of the first well-defined bench on the mountain-flank at Pino Blanco.  The Sabine pines interest me greatly.  They are so airy and strangely palm-like I was eager to sketch them, and was in a fever of excitement without accomplishing much.  I managed to halt long enough, however, to make a tolerably fair sketch of Pino Blanco peak from the southwest side, where there is a small field and vineyard irrigated by a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>After gaining the open summit of this first bench, feeling the natural exhilaration due to the slight elevation of a thousand feet or so, and the hopes excited concerning the <illus entity="a134-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HORSESHOE BEND, MERCED RIVER</P>
134.sgm:outlook to be obtained, a magnificent section of the Merced Valley at what is called Horse shoe Bend came full in sight, --a glorious wilderness that seemed to be calling with a thousand songful voices.  Bold, down-sweeping slopes, feathered with pines and clumps of manzanita with sunny, open spaces <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:between them, make up most of the foreground; the middle and background present fold beyond fold of finely modeled hills and ridges rising into mountain-like masses in the distance, all covered with a shaggy growth of chaparral, mostly adenostoma, planted so marvelously close and even that it looks like soft, rich plush without a single tree or bare spot.  As far as the eye can reach it extends, a heaving, swelling sea of green as regular and continuous as that produced by the heaths of Scotland.  The sculpture of the landscape is as striking in its main lines as in its lavish richness of detail; a grand congregation of massive heights with the river shining between, each carved into smooth, graceful folds without leaving a single rocky angle exposed, as if the delicate fluting and ridging fashioned out of metamorphic slates had been carefully sandpapered.  The whole landscape showed design, like man's noblest sculptures.  How wonderful the power of its beauty!  Gazing awe-stricken, I might have left <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The evening of this charmed day is cool, calm, cloudless, and full of a kind of lightning I have never seen before--white glowing cloud-shaped masses down among the trees and bushes, like quick-throbbing fire-flies in the Wisconsin meadows rather than the so-called "wild fire."  The spreading hairs of the horses' tails and sparks from our blankets show how highly charged the air is.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--We are now on what may be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:called the second bench or plateau of the Range, after making many small ups and downs over belts of hill-waves, with, of course, corresponding changes in the vegetation.  In open spots many of the lowland composit&aelig; are still to be found, and some of the Mariposa tulips and other conspicuous members of the lily family; but the characteristic blue oak of the foothills is left below, and its place is taken by a fine large species ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus Californica</HI>
134.sgm: ) with deeply lobed deciduous leaves, picturesquely divided trunk, and broad, massy, finely lobed and modeled head.  Here also at a height of about twenty-five hundred feet we come to the edge of the great coniferous forest, made up mostly of yellow pine with just a few sugar pines.  We are now in the mountains and they are in us, kindling enthusiasm, making every nerve quiver, filling every pore and cell of us.  Our flesh-and-bone tabernacle seems transparent as glass to the beauty about us, as if truly an inseparable part of it, thrilling with the air and trees, streams <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:and rocks, in the waves of the sun, --a part of all nature, neither old nor young, sick nor well, but immortal.  Just now I can hardly conceive of any bodily condition dependent on food or breath any more than the ground <illus entity="a134-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON SECOND BENCH.  EDGE OF THE MAIN FOREST BELT, ABOVE COULTERVILLE, NEAR GREELEY'S MILL.</P>
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134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>(<HI REND="italics">White Mariposa Tulip Calorchortus albus</HI>
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134.sgm:<P>Through a meadow opening in the pine woods I see snowy peaks about the head-waters of the Merced above Yosemite.  How near they seem and how clear their outlines on the blue air, or rather <HI REND="italics">in</HI>
134.sgm:<P>Found a lovely lily ( <HI REND="italics">Calochortus albus</HI>
134.sgm: ) in a shady adenostoma thicket near Coulterville, in company with <HI REND="italics">Adiantum Chilense</HI>
134.sgm:.  It is white with a faint purplish tinge inside at the base of the petals, a most impressive plant, pure as a snow crystal, one of the plant saints that all must love and be made so much the purer by it every time it is seen.  It puts the roughest mountaineer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>During the afternoon we passed a fine meadow bounded by stately pines, mostly the arrowy yellow pine, with here and there a noble sugar pine, its feathery arms outspread above the spires of its companion species in marked contrast; a glorious tree, its cones fifteen to twenty inches long, swinging like tassels at the end of the branches with superb ornamental effect.  Saw some logs of this species at the Greeley Mill.  They are round and regular as if turned in a lathe, excepting the butt cuts, which have a few buttressing projections.  The fragrance of the sugary sap is delicious and scents the mill and lumber yard.  How beautiful the ground beneath this pine thickly strewn with slender needles and grand cones, and the piles of cone-scales, seed-wings and shells <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>We are now approaching the region of clouds and cool streams.  Magnificent white cumuli appeared about noon above the Yosemite region, --floating fountains refreshing the glorious wilderness, --sky mountains in whose pearly hills and dales the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>I have been examining the curious and influential shrub <HI REND="italics">Adenostoma Fascivulata</HI>
134.sgm:, first noticed about Horseshoe Bend.  It is very abundant on the lower slopes of the second plateau near Coulterville, forming a dense, almost impenetrable growth that looks dark in the distance.  It belongs to the rose family, is about six or eight feet high, has small white flowers in racemes eight to twelve inches long, round needle-like leaves, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Azalea occidentalis</HI>
134.sgm:<P>Another conifer was met to-day, --incense cedar ( <HI REND="italics">Libocedrus decurrens</HI>
134.sgm: ), a large tree with warm yellow-green foliage in flat plumes like those of arborvit&aelig;, bark cinnamon-colored, and as the boles of the old trees are without limbs they make striking pillars in the woods where the sun chances to shine on them, --a worthy companion of the kingly sugar and yellow pines.  I feel strangely attracted to this tree.  The brown close-grained wood, as well as the small scale-like leaves, is fragrant, and the flat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:overlapping plumes make fine beds, and must shed the rain well.  It would be delightful to be storm-bound beneath one of these noble, hospitable, inviting old trees, its broad sheltering arms bent down like a tent, incense rising from the fire made from its dry fallen branches, and a hearty wind chanting overhead.  But the weather is calm to-night, and our camp is only a sheep camp.  We are near the North Fork of the Merced.  The night wind is telling the wonders of the upper mountains, their snow fountains and gardens, forests and groves; even their topography is in its tones.  And the stars, the everlasting sky lilies, how bright they are now that we have climbed above the lowland dust!  The horizon is bounded and adorned by a spiry wall of pines, every tree harmoniously related to every other; definite symbols, divine hieroglyphics written with sunbeams.  Would I could understand them!  The stream flowing past the camp through ferns and lilies and alders makes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June 7</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The sheep were sick last night, and many of them are still far from well, hardly able to leave camp, coughing, groaning, looking wretched and pitiful, all from eating the leaves of the blessed azalea.  So at least say the shepherd and the Don.  Having had but little grass since they left the plains, they are starving, and so eat anything green they can get.  "Sheep men" call azalea "sheep-poison," and wonder what the Creator was thinking about when he made it, --so desperately does sheep business blind and degrade, though supposed to have a refining influence in the good old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>As for the shepherd, his case is still worse, especially in winter when he lives alone in a cabin.  For, though stimulated at times by hopes of one day owning a flock and getting rich like his boss, he at the same time is likely to be degraded by the life he leads, and seldom reaches the dignity or advantage--or disadvantage--of ownership.  The degradation in his case has for cause one not far to seek.  He is solitary most of the year, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The shepherd in Scotland seldom thinks of being anything but a shepherd.  He has probably descended from a race of shepherds and inherited a love and aptitude for the business almost as marked as that of his collie.  He has but a small flock to look after, sees his family and neighbors, has time for reading in fine weather, and often carries books to the fields with which he may converse with kings.  The oriental shepherd, we read, called his sheep by name; they knew his voice and followed him.  The flocks must have been small and easily managed, allowing piping on the hills and ample leisure for reading and thinking.  But whatever the blessings of sheep-culture in other times and countries, the California shepherd, as far as I've seen or heard, is never quite sane for any considerable time.  Of all Nature's voices baa is about all he hears.  Even the howls and ki-yis of coyotes might be blessings if well heard, but he hears them only through a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The sick sheep are getting well, and the shepherd is discoursing on the various poisons lurking in these high pastures--azalea, kalmia, alkali.  After crossing the North Fork of the Merced we turned to the left toward Pilot Peak, and made a considerable ascent on a rocky, brush-covered ridge to Brown's Flat, where for the first time since leaving the plains the flock is enjoying plenty of green grass.  Mr. Delaney intends to seek a permanent camp somewhere in the neighborhood, to last several weeks.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Before noon we passed Bower Cave, a delightful marble palace, not dark and dripping, but filled with sunshine, which pours into it through its wide-open mouth facing the south.  It has a fine, deep, clear little lake with mossy banks embowered with broad-leaved maples, all under ground, wholly unlike anything I have seen in the cave line even in Kentucky, where a large part <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Poison oak or poison ivy ( <HI REND="italics">Rhus diversiloba</HI>
134.sgm: ), both as a bush and a scrambler up trees and rocks, is common throughout the foothill region up to a height of at least three thousand feet above the sea.  It is somewhat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:troublesome to most travelers, inflaming the skin and eyes, but blends harmoniously with its companion plants, and many a charming flower leans confidingly upon it for protection and shade.  I have oftentimes found the curious twining lily ( <HI REND="italics">Stropholirion Californicum</HI>
134.sgm:<P>Brown's Flat is a shallow fertile valley on the top of the divide between the North Fork of the Merced and Bull Creek, commanding magnificent views in every direction.  Here the adventurous pioneer David Brown made his headquarters for many years, dividing his time between gold-hunting and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:bear-hunting.  Where could lonely hunter find a better solitude?  Game in the woods, gold in the rocks, health and exhilaration in the air, while the colors and cloud furniture of the sky are ever inspiring through all sorts of weather.  Though sternly practical, like most pioneers, old David seems to have been uncommonly fond of scenery.  Mr. Delaney, who knew him well, tells me that he dearly loved to climb to the summit of a commanding ridge to gaze abroad over the forest to the snow-clad peaks and sources of the rivers, and over the foreground valleys and gulches to note where miners were at work or claims were abandoned, judging by smoke from cabins and camp-fires, the sounds of axes, etc.; and when a rifle-shot was heard, to guess who was the hunter, whether Indian or some poacher on his wide domain.  His dog Sandy accompanied him everywhere, and well the little hairy mountaineer knew and loved his master and his master's aims.  In deer-hunting he had but little to do, trotting behind <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:his master as he slowly made his way through the wood, careful not to step heavily on dry twigs, scanning open spots in the chaparral, where the game loves to feed in the early morning and towards sunset; peering cautiously over ridges as new outlooks were reached, and along the meadowy borders of streams.  But when bears were hunted, little Sandy became more important, and it was as a bear-hunter that Brown became famous.  His hunting method, as described by Mr. Delaney, who had passed many a night with him in his lonely cabin and learned his stories, was simply to go slowly and silently through the best bear pastures, with his dog and rifle and a few pounds of flour, until he found a fresh track and then follow it to the death, paying no heed to the time required.  Wherever the bear went he followed, led by little Sandy, who had a keen nose and never lost the track, however rocky the ground.  When high open points were reached, the likeliest places were carefully scanned.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:time of year enabled the hunter to determine approximately where the bear would be found, --in the spring and early summer on open spots about the banks of streams and springy places eating grass and clover and lupines, or in dry meadows feasting on strawberries; toward the end of summer, on dry ridges, feasting on manzanita berries, sitting on his haunches, pulling down the laden branches with his paws, and pressing them together so as to get good compact mouthfuls however much mixed with twigs and leaves; in the Indian summer, beneath the pines, chewing the cones cut off by the squirrels, or occasionally climbing a tree to gnaw and break off the fruitful branches.  In late autumn, when acorns are ripe, Bruin's favorite feeding-grounds are groves of the California oak in park-like can&tilde;on flats.  Always the cunning hunter knew where to look, and seldom came upon Bruin unawares.  When the hot scent showed the dangerous game was nigh, a long halt was made, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>"Whenever," said the hunter, "I saw a bear before it saw me I had no trouble in killing it.  I just studied the lay of the land and got to leeward of it no matter how far around I had to go, and then worked up to within a few hundred yards or so, at the foot of a tree that I could easily climb, but too small for the bear to climb.  Then I looked well to the condition of my rifle, took off my boots so as to climb well if necessary, and waited until the bear turned its side in clear view when I could make a sure or at least a good shot.  In case it showed fight I climbed out of reach.  But bears are slow and awkward with their eyes, and being to leeward of them they could not scent me, and I often got in a second shot before they noticed the smoke.  Usually, however, they run when wounded and hide in the brush.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Brown had left his mountain home ere we arrived, but a considerable number of Digger Indians still linger in their cedar-bark huts on the edge of the flat.  They were attracted in the first place by the white <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CAMP, NORTH FORK OF THE MERCED</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The sheep, now grassy and good natured, slowly nibbled their way down into the valley of the North Fork of the Merced at the foot of Pilot Peak Ridge to the place selected by the Don for our first central camp, a picturesque <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--How deep our sleep last night in the mountain's heart, beneath the trees and stars, hushed by solemn-sounding waterfalls and many small soothing voices in sweet accord whispering peace!  And our first pure mountain day, warm, calm, cloudless, --how immeasurable it seems, how serenely wild!  I can scarcely remember its beginning.  Along the river, over the hills, in the ground, in the sky, spring work is going on with joyful enthusiasm, new life, new beauty, unfolding, unrolling in glorious exuberant extravagance, --new birds in their nests, new winged creatures in the air, and new leaves, new flowers, spreading, shining, rejoicing everywhere.</P>
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134.sgm:<P>The trees about the camp stand close, giving ample shade for ferns and lilies, while back from the bank most of the sunshine reaches the ground, calling up the grasses and flowers in glorious array, tall bromus waving like bamboos, starry composit&aelig;, monardella, Mariposa tulips, lupines, gilias, violets, glad children of light.  Soon every fern frond will be unrolled, great beds of common pteris and woodwardia along the river, wreaths and rosettes of pell&aelig;a and cheilanthes on sunny rocks.  Some of the woodwardia fronds are already six feet high.</P>
134.sgm:<P>A handsome little shrub, <HI REND="italics">Cham&oelig;batia foliolosa</HI>
134.sgm:, belonging to the rose family, spreads a yellow-green mantle beneath the sugar pines for miles without a break, not mixed or roughened with other plants.  Only here and there a Washington lily may be seen nodding above its even surface, or a bunch or two of tall bromus as if for ornament.  This fine carpet shrub begins to appear at, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The sheep do not take kindly to their new pastures, perhaps from being too closely hemmed in by the hills.  They are never fully at rest.  Last night they were frightened, probably by bears or coyotes prowling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Very warm.  We get water for the camp from a rock basin at the foot of a picturesque cascading reach of the river where it is well stirred and made lively without being beaten into dusty foam.  The rock here is black metamorphic slate, worn into smooth knobs in the stream channels, contrasting with the fine gray and white cascading water as it glides and glances and falls in lace-like sheets and braided overfolding currents.  Tufts of sedge growing on the rock knobs that rise above the surface produce a charming effect, the long elastic leaves arching over in every direction, the tips of the longest drooping into the current, which dividing against the projecting rocks makes still finer lines, uniting with the sedges to see how beautiful the happy stream can be made.  Nor is this all, for the giant saxifrage also is growing on some of the knob rock islets, firmly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:anchored and displaying their broad round umbrella-like leaves in showy groups by themselves, or above the sedge tufts.  The flowers of this species ( <HI REND="italics">Saxifraga peltata</HI>
134.sgm:<P>Heard a few peals of thunder from the upper Sierra, and saw firm white bossy cumuli rising back of the pines.  This was about noon.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--On one of the eastern branches of the river discovered some charming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">A Forest Brook</HI>
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134.sgm:<P>There are no large meadows or grassy plains near camp to supply lasting pasture for our thousands of busy nibblers.  The main dependence is ceanothus brush on the hills and tufted grass patches here and there, with lupines and pea-vines among the flowers on sunny open spaces.  Large areas have already been stripped bare, or nearly so, compelling the poor hungry wool bundles to scatter far and wide, keeping the shepherds and dogs at the top of their speed to hold them within bounds.  Mr. Delaney has gone back to the plains, taking the Indian and Chinaman with him, leaving instruction to keep the flock here or hereabouts until his return, which he promised would not be long delayed.</P>
134.sgm:<P>How fine the weather is!  Nothing more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:celestial can I conceive.  How gently the winds blow!  Scarce can these tranquil air-currents be called winds.  They seem the very breath of Nature, whispering peace to every living thing.  Down in the camp dell there is no swaying of tree-tops; most of the time not a leaf moves.  I don't remember having seen a single lily swinging on its stalk, though they are so tall the least breeze would rock them.  What grand bells these lilies have!  Some of them big enough for children's bonnets.  I have been sketching them, and would fain draw every leaf of their wide shining whorls and every curved and spotted petal.  More beautiful, better kept gardens cannot be imagined.  The species is <HI REND="italics">Lilium pardalinum</HI>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--A slight sprinkle of rain, --large drops far apart, falling with hearty pat and plash on leaves and stones and into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The mountain live oak, common here and a thousand feet or so higher, is like the live oak of Florida, not only in general appearance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:foliage, bark, and wide-branching habit, but in its tough, knotty, unwedgeable wood.  Standing alone with plenty of elbow room, the largest trees are about seven to eight feet in diameter near the ground, sixty feet high, <illus entity="a134-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOUNTAIN LIVE OAK ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus chrysolepis</HI>
134.sgm:and as wide or wider across the head.  The leaves are small and undivided, mostly without teeth or wavy edging, though on young shoots some are sharply serrated, both kinds being found on the same tree.  The cups of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>A marked plant is the bush poppy ( <HI REND="italics">Dendromecon rigidum</HI>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Another glorious Sierra day in which one seems to be dissolved and absorbed and sent pulsing onward we know not where.  Life seems neither long nor short, and we take no more heed to save time or make haste than do the trees and stars.  This is true freedom, a good practical sort of immortality.  Yonder rises another white skyland.  How sharply the yellow pine spires and the palm-like crowns of the sugar pines are outlined on its smooth white domes.  And hark! the grand thunder billows booming, rolling from ridge to ridge, followed by the faithful shower.</P>
134.sgm:<P>A good many herbaceous plants come thus far up the mountains from the plains, and are now in flower, two months later than their lowland relatives.  Saw a few columbines today.  Most of the ferns are in their prime, --rock ferns on the sunny hillsides, cheilanthes, pell&aelig;a, gymnogramme; woodwardia, aspidium, woodsia along the stream banks, and the common <HI REND="italics">Pteris aquilina</HI>
134.sgm: on sandy flats.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The smaller animals wander about as if in a tropical forest.  I saw the entire flock of sheep vanish at one side of a patch and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:reappear a hundred yards farther on at the other, their progress betrayed only by the jerking and trembling of the fronds; and strange to say very few of the stout woody stalks were broken.  I sat a long time beneath the tallest fronds, and never enjoyed anything in the way of a bower of wild leaves more strangely impressive.  Only spread a fern frond over a man's head and worldly cares are cast out, and freedom and beauty and peace come in.  The waving of a pine tree on the top of a mountain, --a magic wand in Nature's hand, --every devout mountaineer knows its power; but the marvelous beauty value of what the Scotch call a breckan in a still dell, what poet has sung this?  It would seem impossible that any one, however incrusted with care, could escape the Godful influence of these sacred fern forests.  Yet this very day I saw a shepherd pass through one of the finest of them without betraying more feeling than his sheep.  "What do you think of these grand ferns?"  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Lizards of every temper, style, and color dwell here, seemingly as happy and companionable as the birds and squirrels.  Lowly, gentle fellow mortals, enjoying God's sunshine, and doing the best they can in getting a living, I like to watch them at their work and play.  They bear acquaintance well, and one likes them the better the longer one looks into their beautiful, innocent eyes.  They are easily tamed, and one soon learns to love them, as they dart about on the hot rocks, swift as dragon-flies.  The eye can hardly follow them; but they never make long-sustained runs, usually only about ten or twelve feet, then a sudden stop, and as sudden a start again; going all their journeys by quick, jerking impulses.  These many stops I find are necessary as rests, for they are short-winded, and when pursued steadily are soon out of breath, pant pitifully, and are easily caught.  Their bodies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:are more than half tail, but these tails are well managed, never heavily dragged nor curved up as if hard to carry; on the contrary, they seem to follow the body lightly of their own will.  Some are colored like the sky, bright as bluebirds, others gray like the lichened rocks on which they hunt and bask.  Even the horned toad of the plains is a mild, harmless creature, and so are the snake-like species which glide in curves with true snake motion, while their small, undeveloped limbs drag as useless appendages.  One specimen fourteen inches long which I observed closely made no use whatever of its tender, sprouting limbs, but glided with all the soft, sly ease and grace of a snake.  Here comes a little, gray, dusty fellow who seems to know and trust me, running about my feet, and looking up cunningly into my face.  Carlo is watching, makes a quick pounce on him, for the fun of the thing I suppose; but Liz has shot away from his paws like an arrow, and is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Mastodons and elephants used to live here no great geological time ago, as shown by their bones, often discovered by miners in washing gold-gravel.  And bears of at least two species are here now, besides the California lion or panther, and wild cats, wolves, foxes, snakes, scorpions, wasps, tarantulas; but one is almost tempted at times to regard a small savage black ant as the master existence of this vast mountain world.  These fearless, restless, wandering imps, though only about a quarter of an inch long, are fonder of fighting and biting than any beast I know.  They attack every living thing around their homes, often without cause as far as I can see.  Their bodies are mostly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:jaws curved like ice-hooks, and to get work for these weapons seems to be their chief aim and pleasure.  Most of their colonies are established in living oaks somewhat decayed or hollowed, in which they can conveniently build their cells.  These are chosen probably because of their strength as opposed to the attacks of animals and storms.  They work both day and night, creep into dark caves, climb the highest trees, wander and hunt through cool ravines as well as on hot, unshaded ridges, and extend their highways and byways over everything but water and sky.  From the foothills to a mile above the level of the sea nothing can stir without their knowledge; and alarms are spread in an incredibly short time, without any howl or cry that we can hear.  I can't understand the need of their ferocious courage; there seems to be no common sense in it.  Sometimes, no doubt, they fight in defense of their homes, but they fight anywhere and always wherever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>On my way to camp a few minutes ago, I passed a dead pine nearly ten feet in diameter.  It has been enveloped in fire from top to bottom so that now it looks like a grand black pillar set up as a monument.  In this noble shaft a colony of large jetblack ants have established themselves, laboriously cutting tunnels and cells through the wood, whether sound or decayed.  The entire trunk seems to have been honey-combed, judging by the size of the talus of gnawed chips like sawdust piled up around its base.  They are more intelligent looking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:than their small, belligerent, strong-scented brethren, and have better manners, though quick to fight when required.  Their towns are carved in fallen trunks as well as in those left standing, but never in sound, living trees or in the ground.  When you happen to sit down to rest or take notes near a colony, some wandering hunter is sure to find you and come cautiously forward to discover the nature of the intruder and what ought to be done.  If you are not too near the town and keep perfectly still he may run across your feet a few times, over your legs and hands and face, up your trousers, as if taking your measure and getting comprehensive views, then go in peace without raising an alarm.  If, however, a tempting spot is offered or some suspicious movement excites him, a bite follows, and such a bite!  I fancy that a bear or wolf bite is not to be compared with it.  A quick electric flame of pain flashes along the outraged nerves, and you discover for the first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>There is also a fine, active, intelligent-looking red species, intermediate in size between the above.  They dwell in the ground, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The pool-basins below the falls and cascades hereabouts, formed by the heavy down-plunging currents, are kept nicely clean and clear of detritus.  The heavier parts of the material swept over the falls are heaped up a short distance in front of the basins in the form of a dam, thus tending, together with erosion, to increase their size.  Sudden changes, however, are effected during the spring floods, when the snow is melting and the upper tributaries are roaring loud from "bank to brae."  Then boulders that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:have fallen into the channels, and which the ordinary summer and winter currents were unable to move, are suddenly swept forward as by a mighty besom, hurled over the falls into these pools, and piled up in a new dam together with part of the old one, while some of the smaller boulders are carried further down stream and variously lodged according to size and shape, all seeking rest where the force of the current is less than the resistance they are able to offer.  But the greatest changes made in these relations of fall, pool, and dam are caused, not by the ordinary spring floods, but by extraordinary ones that occur at irregular intervals.  The testimony of trees growing on flood boulder deposits shows that a century or more has passed since the last master flood came to awaken everything movable to go swirling and dancing on wonderful journeys.  These floods may occur during the summer, when heavy thunder-showers, called "cloud-bursts," fall on wide, steeply inclined stream basins furrowed by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>One of these ancient flood boulders stands firm in the middle of the stream channel, just below the lower edge of the pool dam at the foot of the fall nearest our camp.  It is a nearly cubical mass of granite about eight feet high, plushed with mosses over the top and down the sides to ordinary high-water mark.  When I climbed on top of it to-day and lay down to rest, it seemed the most romantic spot I had yet found, --the one big stone with its mossy level top and smooth sides standing square and firm and solitary, like an altar, the fall in front of it bathing it lightly with the finest of the spray, just enough to keep its moss cover fresh; the clear green pool beneath, with its foam-bells and its half circle of lilies leaning forward like a band of admirers, and flowering dogwood and alder trees leaning over all in sun-sifted arches.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>After dark, when the camp was at rest, I groped my way back to the altar boulder and passed the night on it, --above the water, beneath the leaves and stars, --everything still more impressive than by day, the fall seen dimly white, singing Nature's old love song with solemn enthusiasm, while the stars peering through the leaf-roof seemed to join in the white water's song.  Precious night, precious day to abide in me forever.  Thanks be to God for this immortal gift.</P>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Another reviving morning.  Down the long mountain-slopes the sunbeams pour, gilding the awakening pines, cheering every needle, filling every living thing with joy.  Robins are singing in the alder and maple groves, the same old song that has cheered and sweetened countless seasons over almost all of our blessed continent.  In this mountain hollow he seems as much at home as in farmers' orchards.  Bullock's oriole and the Louisiana tanager are here also, with many warblers and other little mountain troubadours, most of them now busy about their nests.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Discovered another magnificent specimen of the goldcup oak six feet in diameter, a Douglas spruce seven feet, and a twining lily ( <HI REND="italics">Stropholirion</HI>
134.sgm:<P>Sugar pine cones are cylindrical, slightly tapered at the end and rounded at the base.  Found one to-day nearly twenty-four inches long and six in diameter, the scales being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:open.  Another specimen nineteen inches long; the average length of full-grown <illus entity="a134-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUGAR PINE</P>
134.sgm:cones on trees favorably situated is nearly eighteen inches.  On the lower edge of the belt at a height of about twenty-five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:hundred feet above the sea they are smaller, say a foot to fifteen inches long, and at a height of seven thousand feet or more near the upper limits of its growth in the Yosemite region they are about the same size.  This noble tree is an inexhaustible study and source of pleasure.  I never weary of gazing at its grand tassel cones, its perfectly round bole one hundred feet or more without a limb, the fine purplish color of its bark, and its magnificent outsweeping, down-curving feathery arms forming a crown always bold and striking and exhilarating.  In habit and general port it looks somewhat like a palm, but no palm that I have yet seen displays such majesty of form and behavior either when poised silent and thoughtful in sunshine, or wide-awake waving in storm winds with every needle quivering.  When young it is very straight and regular in form like most other conifers; but at the age of fifty to one hundred years it begins to acquire individuality, so that no two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">A Sugar Pine (on the left</HI>
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134.sgm:are alike in their prime or old age.  Every tree calls for special admiration.  I have been making many sketches, and regret that I cannot draw every needle.  It is said to reach a height of three hundred feet, though the tallest I have measured falls short of this stature sixty feet or more.  The diameter of the largest near the ground is about ten feet, though I've heard of some twelve feet thick or even fifteen.  The diameter is held to a great height, the taper being almost imperceptibly gradual.  Its companion, the yellow pine, is almost as large.  The long silvery foliage of the younger specimens forms magnificent cylindrical brushes on the top shoots and the ends of the upturned branches, and when the wind sways the needles all one way at a certain angle every tree becomes a tower of white quivering sun-fire.  Well may this shining species be called the silver pine.  The needles are sometimes more than a foot long, almost as long as those of the long-leaf pine of Florida.  But though in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Now comes sundown.  The west is all a glory of color transfiguring everything.  Far up the Pilot Peak Ridge the radiant host of trees stand hushed and thoughtful, receiving the Sun's good-night, as solemn and impressive a leave-taking as if sun and trees were to meet no more.  The daylight fades, the color spell is broken, and the forest breathes free in the night breeze beneath the stars.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--One of the Indians from Brown's Flat got right into the middle of the camp this morning, unobserved.  I was seated on a stone, looking over my notes and sketches, and happening to look up, was startled to see him standing grim and silent within a few steps of me, as motionless and weather-stained as an old tree-stump that had stood there for centuries.  All Indians seem to have learned this wonderful way of walking unseen, --making themselves invisible like certain spiders I have been observing here, which, in case of alarm, caused, for example, by a bird alighting on the bush their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>How smooth and changeless seems the surface of the mountains about us!  Scarce a track is to be found beyond the range of the sheep except on small open spots on the sides of the streams, or where the forest carpets are thin or wanting.  On the smoothest of these open strips and patches deer tracks may be seen, and the great suggestive footprints of bears, which, with those of the many small animals, are scarce enough to answer as a kind of light ornamental stitching or embroidery.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>How different are most of those of the white man, especially on the lower gold region, --roads blasted in teh solid rock, wild streams dammed and tamed and turned out of their channels and led along the sides of can&tilde;ons and valleys to work in mines like slaves.  Crossing from ridge to ridge, high in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:the air, on long straddling trestles as if flowing on stilts, or down and up across valleys and hills, imprisoned in iron pipes to strike and wash away hills and miles of the skin of the mountain's face, riddling, stripping every gold gully and flat.  These are the white man's marks made in a few feverish years, to say nothing of mills, fields, villages, scattered hundreds of miles along the flank of the Range.  Long will it be ere these marks are effaced, though Nature is doing what she can, replanting, gardening, sweeping away old dams and flumes, leveling gravel and boulder piles, patiently trying to heal every raw scar.  The main gold storm is over.  Calm enough are the gray old miners scratching a bare living in waste diggings here and there.  Thundering underground blasting is still going on to feed the pounding quartz mills, but their influence on the landscape is light as compared with that of the pick-and-shovel storms waged a few years ago.  Fortunately for Sierra scenery the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Only a few hills and domes of cloudland were built yesterday and none at all to-day.  The light is peculiarly white and thin, though pleasantly warm.  The serenity of this mountain weather in the spring, just when Nature's pulses are beating highest, is one of its greatest charms.  There is only a moderate breeze from the summits of the Range at night, and a slight breathing from the sea and the lowland hills and plains during the day, or stillness so complete no leaf stirs.  The trees hereabouts have but little wind history to tell.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Sheep, like people, are ungovernable when hungry.  Excepting my guarded lily gardens, almost every leaf that these hoofed locusts can reach within a radius of a mile or two from camp has been devoured.  Even the bushes are stripped bare, and in spite of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Counted the wool bundles this morning as they bounced through the narrow corral gate.  About three hundred are missing, and as the shepherd could not go to seek them, I had to go.  I tied a crust of bread to my belt, and with Carlo set out for the upper slopes of the Pilot Peak Ridge, and had a good day, notwithstanding the care of seeking the silly runaways.  I went out for wool, and did not come back shorn.  A peculiar light circled around the horizon, white and thin like that often seen over the auroral corona, blending into the blue of the upper sky.  The only clouds were a few faint flossy pencilings like combed silk.  I pushed direct to the boundary of the usual range of the flock, and around it until I found the outgoing trail of the wanderers.  It led far up the ridge into an open place <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Another inspiring morning, nothing better in any world can be conceived.  No description of Heaven that I have ever heard or read of seems half so fine.  At noon the clouds occupied about .05 of the sky, white filmy touches drawn delicately on the azure.</P>
134.sgm:<P>The high ridges and hilltops beyond the woolly locusts are now gay with monardella, clarkia, coreopsis, and tall tufted grasses, some of them tall enough to wave like pines.  The lupines, of which there are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>We had another visitor from Brown's Flat to-day, an old Indian woman with a basket on her back.  Like our first caller from the village, she got fairly into camp and was standing in plain view when discovered.  How long she had been quietly looking on, I cannot say.  Even the dogs failed to notice her stealthy approach.  She was on her way, I suppose, to some wild garden, probably for lupine and starchy saxifrage leaves and rootstocks.  Her dress was calico rags, far from clean.  In every way she seemed sadly unlike Nature's neat well-dressed animals, though living like them on the bounty of the wilderness.  Strange that mankind alone is dirty.  Had she been clad in fur, or cloth woven of grass or shreddy bark, like the juniper and libocedrus mats, she might then have seemed a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Pure sunshine all day.  How beautiful a rock is made by leaf shadows!  Those of the live oak are particularly clear and distinct, and beyond all art in grace and delicacy, now still as if painted on stone, now gliding softly as if afraid of noise, now dancing, waltzing in swift, merry swirls, or jumping on and off sunny rocks in quick dashes like wave embroidery on seashore cliffs.  How true and substantial is this shadow beauty, and with what sublime extravagance is beauty thus multiplied!  The big orange lilies are now arrayed in all their glory of leaf and flower.  Noble plants, in perfect health, Nature's darlings.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Some of the silly sheep got caught fast in a tangle of chaparral this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The air is distinctly fragrant with balsam and resin and mint, --every breath of it a gift we may well thank God for.  Who could ever guess that so rough a wilderness should yet be so fine, so full of good things.  One seems to be in a majestic domed pavilion in which a grand play is being acted with scenery and music and and incense, --all the furniture and action so interesting we are in no danger of being called on to endure one dull moment.  God himself seems to be always doing his best here, working like a man in a glow of enthusiasm.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Sauntered along the river-bank to my lily gardens.  The perfection of beauty in these lilies of the wilderness is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Cloudland to-day is only a solitary white mountain; but it is so enriched with sunshine and shade, the tones of color on its big domed head and bossy outbulging ridges, and in the hollows and ravines between them, are ineffably fine.</P>
134.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Unusually cloudy.  Besides the periodical shower-bearing cumuli there is a thin diffused fog-like cloud overhead.  About .75 in all.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Oh, these vast, calm, measureless mountain days, inciting at once to work and rest!  Days in whose light everything seems equally divine, opening a thousand windows to show us God.  Nevermore, however weary, should one faint by the way who gains the blessings of one mountain day; whatever his fate, long life, short life, stormy or calm, he is rich forever.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Our regular allowance of clouds and thunder.  Shepherd Billy is in a peck of trouble about the sheep; he declares that they are possessed with more of the evil one than any other flock from the beginning of the invention of mutton and wool to the last batch of it.  No matter how many are missing, he will not, he says, go a step to seek them, because, as he reasons, while getting back one wanderer he would probably lose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:ten.  Therefore runaway hunting must be Carlo's and mine.  Billy's little dog Jack is also giving trouble by leaving camp every night to visit his neighbors up the mountain at Brown's Flat.  He is a common-looking cur of no particular breed, but tremendously enterprising in love and war.  He has cut all the ropes and leather straps he has been tied with, until his master in desperation, after climbing the brushy mountain again and again to drag him back, fastened him with a pole attached to his collar under his chin at one end, and to a stout sapling at the other.  But the pole gave good leverage, and by constant twisting during the night, the fastening at the sapling end was chafed off, and he set out on his usual journey, dragging the pole through the brush, and reached the Indian settlement in safety.  His master followed, and making no allowance, gave him a beating, and swore in bad terms that next evening he would "fix that infatuated pup" by anchoring him unmercifully to the heavy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:cast-iron lid of our Dutch oven, weighing about as much as the dog.  It was linked directly to his collar close up under the chin, so that the poor fellow seemed unable to stir.  He stood quite discouraged until after dark, unable to look about him, or even to lie down unless he stretched himself out with his front feet across the lid, and his head close down between his paws.  Before morning, however, Jack was heard far up the height howling Excelsior, cast-iron anchor to the contrary notwithstanding.  He must have walked, or rather climbed, erect on his hind legs, clasping the heavy lid like a shield against his breast, a formidable iron-clad condition in which to meet his rivals.  Next night, dog, pot-lid, and all, were tied up in an old bean-sack, and thus at last angry Billy gained the victory.  Just before leaving home, Jack was bitten in the lower jaw by a rattlesnake, and for a week or so his head and neck were swollen to more than double the normal size; nevertheless he ran about as brisk <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Though only a sheep camp, this grand mountain hollow is home, sweet home, every day growing sweeter, and I shall be sorry to leave it.  The lily gardens are safe as yet from the trampling flock.  Poor, dusty, raggedy, famishing creatures, I heartily pity them.  Many a mile they must go every day to gather their fifteen or twenty tons of chaparral and grass.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Nuttall's flowering dogwood makes a fine show when in bloom.  The whole tree is then snowy white.  The involucres are six to eight inches wide.  Along the streams it is a good-sized tree thirty to fifty feet high, with a broad head when not crowded by companions.  Its showy involucres attract a crowd of moths, butterflies, and other winged people about it for their own and, I suppose, the tree's advantage.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:likes plenty of cool water, and is a great drinker like the alder, willow, and cottonwood, and flourishes best on stream banks, though it often wanders far from streams in damp shady glens beneath the pines, where it is much smaller.  When the leaves ripen in the fall, they become more beautiful than the flowers, displaying charming tones of red, purple, and lavender.  Another species grows in abundance as a chaparral shrub on the shady sides of the hills, probably <HI REND="italics">Cornus sessilis</HI>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The beaked hazel ( <HI REND="italics">Corylus rostrata</HI>
134.sgm:, var.  <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
134.sgm: ) is common on cool slopes up toward the summit of the Pilot Peak Ridge.  There is something peculiarly attractive in the hazel, like the oaks and heaths of the cool countries of our forefathers, and through them our love for these plants has, I suppose, been transmitted.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Warm, mellow summer.  The glowing sunbeams make every nerve tingle.  The new needles of the pines and firs are nearly full grown and shine gloriously.  Lizards are glinting about on the hot rocks; some that live near the camp are more than half tame.  They seem attentive to every movement on our part, as if curious to simply look on without suspicion of harm, turning their heads to look back, and making a variety of pretty gestures.  Gentle, guileless creatures with beautiful eyes, I shall be sorry to leave them when we leave camp.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--I have been making the acquaintance of a very interesting little bird that flits about the falls and rapids of the main branches of the river.  It is not a water-bird in structure, though it gets its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:living in the water, and never leaves the streams.  It is not web-footed, yet it dives fearlessly into deep swirling rapids, evidently to feed at the bottom, using its wings to swim with under water just as ducks and loons do.  Sometimes it wades about in shallow places, thrusting its head under from time to time in a jerking, nodding, frisky way that is sure to attract attention.  It is about the size of a robin, has short crisp wings serviceable for flying either in water or air, and a tail of moderate size slanted upward, giving it, with its nodding, bobbing manners, a wrennish look.  Its color is plain bluish ash, with a tinge of brown on the head and shoulders.  It flies from fall to fall, rapid to rapid, with a solid whir of wingbeats like those of a quail, follows the windings of the stream, and usually alights on some rock jutting up out of the current, or on some stranded snag, or rarely on the dry limb of an overhanging tree, perching like regular tree birds when it suits its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">June</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Halfcloudy, halfsunny, clouds lustrous white.  The tall pines crowded along the top of the Pilot Peak Ridge look <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Summer is ripe.  Flocks of seeds <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>I like to watch the squirrels.  There are two species here, the large California gray and the Douglas.  The latter is the brightest of all the squirrels I have ever seen, a hot spark of life, making every tree tingle with his prickly toes, a condensed nugget of fresh mountain vigor and valor, as free from disease as a sunbeam.  One cannot think of such an animal ever being weary or sick.  He seems to think the mountains belong to him, and at first tried to drive away the whole flock of sheep as well as the shepherd and dogs.  How he scolds, and what faces <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:he makes, all eyes, teeth, and whiskers!  If not so comically small, he would indeed be a dreadful fellow.  I should like to know more about his bringing up, his life in the home knot-hole, as well as in the tree-tops, <illus entity="a134-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DOUGLAS SQUIRREL OBSERVING BROTHER MAN</P>
134.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The California gray is one of the most beautiful, and, next to the Douglas, the most interesting of our hairy neighbors.  Compared with the Douglas he is twice as large, but far less lively and influential as a worker in the woods, and he manages to make his way through leaves and branches with less stir than his small brother.  I have never heard him bark at anything except our dogs.  When in search of food he glides silently from branch to branch, examining last year's cones, to see whether some few seeds may not be left between the scales, or gleans fallen ones among the leaves on the ground, since none of the present season's crop is yet available.  His tail floats now behind him, now above him, level or gracefully curled like a wisp of cirrus cloud, every hair in its place, clean and shining and radiant as thistle-down in spite of rough, gummy work.  His whole body seems about as unsubstantial as his tail.  The little Douglas is fiery, peppery, full of brag <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:and fight and show, with movements so quick and keen they almost sting the on-looker, and the harlequin gyrating show he makes of himself turns one giddy to see.  The gray is shy, and oftentimes stealthy in his movements, as if half expecting an enemy in every tree and bush, and back of every log, wishing only to be let alone apparently, and manifesting no desire to be seen or admired or feared.  The Indians hunt this species for food, a good cause for caution, not to mention other enemies, --hawks, snakes, wild cats.  In woods where food is abundant they wear paths through sheltering thickets and over prostrate trees to some favorite pool where in hot and dry weather they drink at nearly the same hour every day.  These pools are said to be narrowly watched, especially by the boys, who lie in ambush with bow and arrow, and kill without noise.  But, in spite of enemies, squirrels are happy fellows, forest favorites, types of tireless life.  Of all Nature's wild beasts, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The chaparral-covered hill-slope to the south of the camp, besides furnishing nesting-places for countless merry birds, is the home and hiding-place of the curious wood rat ( <HI REND="italics">Neotoma</HI>
134.sgm: ), a handsome, interesting animal, always attracting attention wherever seen.  It is more like a squirrel than a rat, is much larger, has delicate, thick, soft fur of a bluish slate color, white on the belly; ears large, thin, and translucent; eyes soft, full, and liquid; claws slender, sharp as needles; and as his limbs are strong, he can climb about as well as a squirrel.  No rat or squirrel has so innocent a look, is so easily approached, or expresses such confidence in one's good intentions.  He seems too fine for the thorny thickets he inhabits, and his hut also is as unlike himself as may be, though softly furnished inside.  No other animal inhabitant of these mountains builds houses so large and striking in appearance.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:traveler coming suddenly upon a group of them for the first time will not be likely to forget them.  They are built of all kinds of sticks, old rotten pieces picked up anywhere, and green prickly twigs bitten from the nearest bushes, the whole mixed with miscellaneous odds and ends of everything movable, such as bits of cloddy earth, stones, bones, deerhorn, etc., piled up in a conical mass as if it were got ready for burning.  Some of these curious cabins are six feet high and as wide at the base, and a dozen or more of them are occasionally grouped together, less perhaps for the sake of society than for advantages of food and shelter.  Coming through the dense shaggy thickets of some lonely hillside, the solitary explorer happening into one of these strange villages is startled at the sight, and may fancy himself in an Indian settlement, and begin to wonder what kind of reception he is likely to get.  But no savage face will he see, perhaps not a single inhabitant, or at most two or three seated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:on top of their wigwams, looking at the stranger with the mildest of wild eyes, and allowing a near approach.  In the centre of the rough spiky hut a soft nest is made of the inner fibres of bark chewed to tow, and lined with feathers and the down of various seeds, such as willow and milkweed.  The delicate creature in its prickly, thick-walled home suggests a tender flower in a thorny involucre.  Some of the nests are built in trees thirty or forty feet from the ground, and even in garrets, as if seeking the company and protection of man, like swallows and linnets, though accustomed to the wildest solitude.  Among housekeepers Neotoma has the reputation of a thief, because he carries away everything transportable to his queer hut, --knives, forks, combs, nails, tin cups, spectacles, etc., --merely, however, to stregthen his fortifications, I guess.  His food at home, as far as I have learned, is nearly the same as that of the squirrels, --nuts, berries, seeds, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Warm, sunny day, thrilling plant and animals and rocks alike, making sap and blood flow fast, and making every particle of the crystal mountains throb and swirl and dance in glad accord like star-dust.  No dullness anywhere visible or thinkable.  No stagnation, no death.  Everything kept in joyful rhythmic motion in the pulses of Nature's big heart.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Pearl cumuli over the higher mountains, --clouds, not with a silver lining, but all silver.  The brightest, crispest, rockiest-looking clouds, most varied in features and keenest in outline I ever saw at any time of year in any country.  The daily building and unbuilding of these snowy cloud-ranges--the highest Sierra--is a prime marvel to me, and I gaze at the stupendous white domes, miles high, with ever fresh admiration.  But in the midst of these sky and mountain affairs a change of diet is pulling us down.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Warm.  Breeze just enough to sift through the woods and waft fragrance from their thousand fountains.  The pine and fir cones are growing well, resin and balsam dripping from every tree, and seeds are ripening fast, promising a fine harvest.  The squirrels will have bread.  They eat all kinds of nuts long before they are ripe, and yet never seem to suffer in stomach.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The air beyond the flock range, full of the essences of the woods, is growing sweeter and more fragrant from day to day, like ripening fruit.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Mr. Delaney is expected to arrive soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The clouds of noon on the high Sierra seem yet more marvelously, indescribably beautiful from day to day as one becomes more wakeful to see them.  The smoke of the gunpowder burned yesterday on the lowlands, and the eloquence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Mr. Delaney has not arrived, and the bread famine is sore.  We must eat mutton a while longer, though it seems hard to get accustomed to it.  I have heard of Texas pioneers living without bread of anything made from the cereals for months without suffering, using the breast-meat of wild turkeys for bread.  Of this kind they had plenty in the good old days when life, though considered less safe, was fussed over the less.  The trappers and fur traders of early days in the Rocky Mountain regions lived on bison and beaver meat for months.  Salmon-eaters, too, there are among both Indians and whites who seem to suffer little or not at all from the want of bread.  Just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:at this moment mutton seems the least desirable of food, though of good quality.  We pick out the leanest bits, and down they go against heavy disgust, causing nausea and an effort to reject the offensive stuff.  Tea makes matters worse, if possible.  The stomach begins to assert itself as an independent creature with a will of its own.  We should boil lupine leaves, clover, starchy petioles, and saxifrage rootstocks like the Indians.  We try to ignore our gastric troubles, rise and gaze about us, turn our eyes to the mountains, and climb doggedly up through brush and rocks into the heart of the scenery.  A stifled calm comes on, and the day's duties and even enjoyments are languidly got through with.  We chew a few leaves of ceanothus by way of luncheon, and smell or chew the spicy monardella for the dull headache and stomach-ache that now lightens, now comes muffling down upon us and into us like fog.  At night more mutton, flesh to flesh, down with it, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Rather weak and sickish this morning, and all about a piece of bread.  Can scarce command attention to my best studies, as if one couldn't take a few days' saunter in the Godful woods without maintaining a base on a wheat-field and grist-mill.  Like caged parrots we want a cracker, any of the hundred kinds, --the remainder biscuit of a voyage around the world would answer well enough, nor would the wholesomeness of saleratus biscuit be questioned.  Bread without flesh is a good diet, as on many botanical excursions I have proved.  Tea also may easily be ignored.  Just bread and water and delightful toil is all I need, --not unreasonably much, yet one ought to be trained and tempered to enjoy life in these brave wilds in full independence of any particular kind of nourishment.  That this may be accomplished is manifest, as far as bodily <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Man seems to be the only animal whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:food soils him, making necessary much washing and shield-like bibs and napkins.  Moles living in the earth and eating slimy worms are yet as clean as seals or fishes, whose lives are one perpetual wash.  And, as we have seen, the squirrels in these resiny woods keep themselves clean in some mysterious way; not a hair is sticky, though they handle the gummy cones, and glide about apparently without care.  The birds, too, are clean, though they seem to make a good deal of fuss washing and cleaning their feathers.  Certain flies and ants I see are in a fix, entangled and sealed up in the sugar-wax we threw away, like some of their ancestors in amber.  Our stomachs, like tired muscles, are sore with long squirming.  Once I was very hungry in the Bonaventure graveyard near Savannah, Georgia, having fasted for several days; then the empty stomach seemed to chafe in much the same way as now, and a somewhat similar tenderness and aching was produced, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>In the warm, hospitable Sierra, shepherds and mountain men in general, as far as I have seen, are easily satisfied as to food <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:supplies and bedding.  Most of them are heartily content to "rough it," ignoring Nature's fineness as bothersome or unmanly.  The shepherd's bed is often only the bare ground and a pair of blankets, with a stone, a piece of wood, or a pack-saddle for a pillow.  In choosing the spot, he shows less care than the dogs, for they usually deliberate before making up their minds in so important an affair, going from place to place, scraping away loose sticks and pebbles, and trying for comfort by making many changes, while the shepherd casts himself down anywhere, seemingly the least skilled of all rest seekers.  His food, too, even when he has all he wants, is usually far from delicate, either in kind or cooking.  Beans, bread of any sort, bacon, mutton, dried peaches, and sometimes potatoes and onions, make up his bill-of-fare, the two latter articles being regarded as luxuries on account of their weight as compared with the nourishment they contain; a half-sack or so of each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:may be put into the pack in setting out from the home ranch and in a few days they are done.  Beans are the main standby, portable, wholesome, and capable of going far, besides being easily cooked, although curiously enough a great deal of mystery is supposed to lie about the bean-pot.  No two cooks quite agree on the methods of making beans do their best, and, after petting and coaxing and nursing the savory mess, --well oiled and mellowed with bacon boiled into the heart of it, --the proud cook will ask, after dishing out a quart or two for trial, "Well, how do you like <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
134.sgm: beans?"  as if by no possibility could they be like any other beans cooked in the same way, but must needs possess some special virtue of which he alone is master.  Molasses, sugar, or pepper may be used to give desired flavors; or the first water may be poured off and a spoonful or two of ashes or soda added to dissolve or soften the skins more fully, according to various tastes and notions.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Coffee, too, has its marvels in the camp kitchen, but not so many, and not so inscrutable as those that beset the bean-pot.  A low complacent grunt follows a mouthful drawn in with a gurgle, and the remark cast forth aimlessly, "That's good coffee."  Then another gurgling sip and repetition of the judgment, " <HI REND="italics">Yes, sir</HI>
134.sgm:, that <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
134.sgm: good coffee."  As to tea, there are but two kinds, weak and strong, the stronger the better.  The only remark heard is, "That tea's weak," otherwise it is good enough and not worth mentioning.  If it has been boiled an hour or two or smoked on a pitchy fire, no matter, --who cares for a little tannin or creosote? they make the black beverage all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Sheep-camp bread, like most California camp bread, is baked in Dutch ovens, some of it in the form of yeast powder biscuit, an unwholesome sticky compound leading straight to dyspepsia.  The greater part, however, is fermented with sour dough, a handful from each batch being saved and put away in the mouth of the flour sack to inoculate the next.  The oven is simply a cast-iron pot, about five inches deep and from twelve to eighteen inches wide.  After the batch has been mixed and kneaded in a tin pan, the oven is slightly heated and rubbed with a piece of tallow or pork rind.  The dough is then placed in it, pressed out against the sides, and left to rise.  When ready for baking a shovelful of coals is spread out by the side of the fire and the oven set upon them, while another shovelful is placed on top of the lid, which is raised from time to time to see that the requisite amount of heat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>At last Don Delaney comes doon the lang glen, --hunger vanishes, we turn our eyes to the mountains, and to-morrow we go climbing toward cloudland.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Never while anything is left of me shall this first camp be forgotten.  It has fairly grown into me, not merely as memory pictures, but as part and parcel of mind and body alike.  The deep hopper-like hollow, with its majestic trees through which all the wonderful nights the stars poured their beauty.  The flowery wildness of the high steep slope toward Brown's Flat, and its bloom-fragrance descending at the close of the still days.  The embowered river-reaches with their multitude of voices making melody, the stately flow and rush and glad exulting onsweeping currents caressing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:dipping sedge-leaves and bushes and mossy stones, swirling in pools, dividing against little flowery islands, breaking gray and white here and there, ever rejoicing, yet with deep solemn undertones recalling the ocean, --the brave little bird ever beside them, singing with sweet human tones among the waltzing foam-bells, and like a blessed evangel explaining God's love.  And the Pilot Peak Ridge, its long withdrawing slopes gracefully modeled and braided, reaching from climate to climate, feathered with trees that are the kings of their race, their ranks nobly marshaled to view, spire above spire, crown above crown, waving their long, leafy arms, tossing their cones like ringing bells, --blessed sun-fed mountaineers rejoicing in their strength, every tree tuneful, a harp for the winds and the sun.  The hazel and buckthorn pastures of the deer, the sun-beaten brows purple and yellow with mint and golden-rods, carpeted with cham&oelig;batia, humming with bees.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">A Mountain Stream</HI>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Now away we go toward the topmost mountains.  Many still, small voices, as well as the noon thunder, are calling, "Come higher."  Farewell, blessed dell, woods, gardens, streams, birds, squirrels, lizards, and a thousand others.  Farewell.  Farewell.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Up through the woods the hoofed locusts streamed beneath a cloud of brown dust.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>As soon as the boundary of the old eaten-out range was passed the hungry horde suddenly became calm, like a mountain stream in a meadow.  Thenceforward they were allowed to eat their way as slowly as they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:wished, care being taken only to keep them headed toward the summit of the Merced and Tuolumne divide.  Soon the two thousand flattened paunches were bulged out with sweet-pea vines and grass, and the gaunt, desperate creatures, more like wolves than <illus entity="a134-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DIVIDE BETWEEN THE TUOLUMNE AND THE MERCED, BELOW HAZEL GREEN</P>
134.sgm:<P>Toward sundown we reached Hazel Green, a charming spot on the summit of the dividing ridge between the basins of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:Merced and Tuolumne, where there is a small brook flowing through hazel and dogwood thickets beneath magnificent silver firs and pines.  Here we are camped for the night, our big fire, heaped high with rosiny logs and branches, is blazing like a sunrise, gladly giving back the light slowly sifted from the sunbeams of centuries of summers; and in the glow of that old sunlight how impressively surrounding objects are brought forward in relief against the outer darkness!  Grasses, larkspurs, columbines, lilies, hazel bushes, and the great trees form a circle around the fire like thoughtful spectators, gazing and listening with human-like enthusiasm.  The night breeze is cool, for all day we have been climbing into the upper sky, the home of the cloud mountains we so long have admired.  How sweet and keen the air!  Every breath a blessing.  Here the sugar pine reaches its fullest development in size and beauty and number of individuals, filling every swell and hollow and down-plunging ravine almost to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>We have now reached a height of six thousand feet.  In the forenoon we passed along a flat part of the dividing ridge that is planted with manzanita ( <HI REND="italics">Arctostaphylos</HI>
134.sgm: ), some specimens the largest I have seen.  I measured one, the bole of which is four feet in diameter and only eighteen inches high from the ground, where it dissolves into many wide-spreading branches forming a broad round head about ten or twelve feet high, covered with clusters of small narrow-throated pink bells.  The leaves are pale green, glandular, and set on edge by a twist of the petiole.  The branches seem naked; for the chocolate-colored bark is very smooth and thin, and is shed off in flakes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:that curl when dry.  The wood is red, close-grained, hard, and heavy.  I wonder how old these curious tree-bushes are, probably as old as the great pines.  Indians and bears and birds and fat grubs feast on the berries, which look like small apples, often rosy on one side, green on the other.  The Indians are said to make a kind of beer or cider out of them.  There are many species.  This one, <HI REND="italics">Arctostaphylos pungens</HI>
134.sgm:<P>I miss my river songs to-night.  Here Hazel Creek at its topmost springs has a voice like a bird.  The wind-tones in the great trees overhead are strangely impressive, all the more because not a leaf stirs below them.  But it grows late, and I must to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July 9</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Exhilarated with the mountain air, I feel like shouting this morning with excess of wild animal joy.  The Indian lay down away from the fire last night, without blankets, having nothing on, by way of clothing, but a pair of blue overalls and a calico shirt wet with sweat.  The night air is chilly at this elevation, and we gave him some horse-blankets, but he did n't seem to care for them.  A fine thing to be independent of clothing where it is so hard to carry.  When food is scarce, he can live on whatever comes in his way, --a few berries, roots, bird eggs, grasshoppers, black ants, fat wasp or bumblebee larv&aelig;, without feeling that he is doing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Our course to-day was along the broad top of the main ridge to a hollow beyond Crane Flat.  It is scarce at all rocky, and is covered with the noblest pines and spruces I have yet seen.  Sugar pines from six to eight feet in diameter are not uncommon, with a height of two hundred feet or even more.  The silver firs ( <HI REND="italics">Abies concolor</HI>
134.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">A. magnifica</HI>
134.sgm: ) are exceedingly beautiful, especially the <HI REND="italics">magnifica</HI>
134.sgm:, which becomes more abundant the higher we go.  It is of great size, one of the most notable in every way of the giant conifers of the Sierra.  I saw specimens that measured seven feet in diameter and over two hundred feet in height, while the average size for what might be called full-grown mature trees can hardly be less than one hundred and eighty or two hundred feet high and five or six feet in diameter; and with these noble dimensions there is a symmetry and perfection of finish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:not to be seen in any other tree, hereabout at least.  The branches are whorled in fives mostly, and stand out from the tall, straight, exquisitely tapered bole in level collars, each branch regularly pinnated like the fronds of ferns, and densely clad with leaves all around the branchlets, thus giving them a singularly rich and sumptuous appearance.  The extreme top of the tree is a thick blunt shoot pointing straight to the zenith like an admonishing finger.  The cones stand erect like casks on the upper branches.  They are about six inches long, three in diameter, blunt, velvety, and cylindrical in form, and very rich and precious looking.  The seeds are about three quarters of an inch long, dark reddish brown with brilliant iridescent purple wings, and when ripe, the cone falls to pieces, and the seeds thus set free at a height of one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet have a good send off and may fly considerable distances in a good breeze; and it is when a good breeze <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The other species, <HI REND="italics">Abies concolor</HI>
134.sgm:, attains nearly as great a height and thickness as the <HI REND="italics">magnifica</HI>
134.sgm:, but the branches do not form such regular whorls, nor are they so exactly pinnated or richly leaf-clad.  Instead of growing all around the branchlets, the leaves are mostly arranged in two flat horizontal rows.  The cones and seeds are like those of the <HI REND="italics">magnifica</HI>
134.sgm: in form but less than half as large.  The bark of the <HI REND="italics">magnifica</HI>
134.sgm: is reddish purple and closely furrowed, that of the <HI REND="italics">concolor</HI>
134.sgm:<P>At Crane Flat we climbed a thousand feet or more in a distance of about two miles, the forest growing more dense and the silvery <HI REND="italics">magnifica</HI>
134.sgm: fir forming a still greater portion of the whole.  Crane Flat is a meadow with a wide sandy border lying on the top of the divide.  It is often visited by blue cranes to rest and feed on their long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:journeys, hence the name.  It is about half a mile long, draining into the Merced, sedgy in the middle, with a margin bright with lilies, columbines, larkspurs, lupines, castilleia, then an outer zone of dry, gently sloping ground starred with a multitude of small flowers, --eunanus, mimulus, gilia, with rosettes of spraguea, and tufts of several species of eriogonum and the brilliant zauschneria.  The noble forest wall about it is made up of the two silver firs and the yellow and sugar pines, which here seem to reach their highest pitch of beauty and grandeur; for the elevation, six thousand feet or a little more, is not too great for the sugar and yellow pines or too low for the <HI REND="italics">magnifica</HI>
134.sgm: fir, while the <HI REND="italics">concolor</HI>
134.sgm: seems to find this elevation the best possible.  About a mile from the north end of the flat there is a grove of <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
134.sgm:, the king of all the conifers.  Furthermore, the Douglas spruce ( <HI REND="italics">Pseudotsuga Douglasii</HI>
134.sgm: ) and <HI REND="italics">Libocedrus decurrens</HI>
134.sgm:, and a few two-leaved pines, occur <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>We passed a number of charming garden-like meadows lying on top of the divide or hanging like ribbons down its sides, imbedded in the glorious forest.  Some are taken up chiefly with the tall white-flowered <HI REND="italics">Veratrum Californicum</HI>
134.sgm:, with boat-shaped leaves about a foot long, eight or ten inches wide, and veined like those of cypripedium, --a robust, hearty, liliaceous plant, fond of water and determined to be seen.  Columbine and larkspur grow on the dryer edges of the meadows, with a tall handsome lupine standing waist-deep in long grasses and sedges.  Castilleias, too, of several species make a bright show with beds of violets at their feet.  But the glory of these forest meadows is a lily <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:(<HI REND="italics">L. parvum</HI>
134.sgm: ).  The tallest are from seven to eight feet high with magnificent racemes of ten to twenty or more small orange-colored flowers; they stand out free in open ground, with just enough grass and other companion plants about them to fringe their feet, and show them off to best advantage.  This is a grand addition to my lily acquaintances, --a true mountaineer, reaching prime vigor and beauty at a height of seven thousand feet or thereabouts.  It varies, I find, very much in size even in the same meadow, not only with the soil, but with age.  I saw a specimen that had only one flower, and another within a stone's throw had twenty-five.  And to think that the sheep should be allowed in these lily meadows! after how many centuries of Nature's care planting and watering them, tucking the bulbs in snugly below winter frost, shading the tender shoots with clouds drawn above them like curtains, pouring refreshing rain, making them perfect in beauty, and keeping <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The trees round about them seem as perfect in beauty and form as the lilies, their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--A Douglas squirrel, peppery, pungent autocrat of the woods, is barking overhead this morning, and the small forest birds, so seldom seen when one travels noisily, are out on sunny branches along the edge of the meadow getting warm, taking a sun bath and dew bath--a fine sight.  How charming the sprightly confident looks and ways of these little feathered people of the trees!  They seem sure of dainty, wholesome breakfasts, and where are so many breakfasts to come from?  How helpless should we find ourselves should we try to set a table for them of such buds, seeds, insects, etc., as would keep them in the pure wild health <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>On through the forest ever higher we go, a cloud of dust dimming the way, thousands of feet, trampling leaves and flowers, but in this mighty wilderness they seem but a feeble band, and a thousand gardens will escape their blighting touch.  They cannot hurt the trees, though some of the seedlings suffer, and should the woolly locusts be greatly multiplied, as on account of dollar value they are likely to be, then the forests, too, may in time be destroyed.  Only the sky will then be safe, though hid from view by dust and smoke, incense of a bad sacrifice.  Poor, helpless, hungry sheep, in great part misbegotten, without good right to be, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Our way is still along the Merced and Tuolumne divide, the streams on our right going to swell the songful Yosemite River, those on our left to the songful Tuolumne, slipping through sunny carex and lily meadows, and breaking into song down a thousand ravines almost as soon as they are born.  A more tuneful set of streams surely nowhere exists, or more sparkling crystal pure, now gliding with tinkling whisper, now with merry dimpling rush, in and out through sunshine and shade, shimmering in pools, uniting their currents, bouncing, dancing from form to form over cliffs and inclines, ever more beautiful the farther they go until they pour into the main glacial rivers.</P>
134.sgm:<P>All day I have been gazing in growing admiration at the noble groups of the magnificent silver fir which more and more is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Fortunately the sheep need little attention, as they are driven slowly and allowed to nip and nibble as they like.  Since leaving Hazel Green we have been following the Yosemite trail; visitors to the famous valley coming by way of Coulterville and Chinese Camp pass this way--the two trails uniting at Crane Flat--and enter the valley on the north side.  Another trail enters on the south side by way of Mariposa.  The tourists we saw were in parties of from three or four to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>We are now camped at Tamarack Flat, within four or five miles of the lower end of Yosemite.  Here is another fine meadow embosomed in the woods, with a deep, clear stream gliding through it, its banks rounded and beveled with a thatch of dipping sedges.  The flat is named after the two-leaved pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus contorta, var. Murrayana</HI>
134.sgm: ), common here, especially around the cool margin of the meadow.  On rocky ground it is a rough, thickset tree, about forty to sixty feet high and one to three feet in diameter, bark thin and gummy, branches rather naked, tassels, leaves, and cones small.  But in damp, rich soil it grows close and slender, and reaches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The Don has gone ahead on one of the pack animals to spy out the land to the north of Yosemite in search of the best point for a central camp.  Much higher than this we cannot now go, for the upper pastures, said to be better than any here-abouts, are still buried in heavy winter snow.  Glad I am that camp is to be fixed in the Yosemite region, for many a glorious ramble I'll have along the top of the walls, and then what landscapes I shall find with their new mountains and can&tilde;ons, forests and gardens, lakes and streams and falls.</P>
134.sgm:<P>We are now about seven thousand feet above the sea, and the nights are so cool we have to pile coats and extra clothing on top <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:of our blankets.  Tamarack Creek is icy cold, delicious, exhilarating champagne water.  It is flowing bank full in the meadow with silent speed, but only a few hundred yards below our camp the ground is bare gray granite strewn with boulders, large spaces being without a single tree or only a small one here and there anchored in narrow seams and cracks.  The boulders, many of them very large, are not in piles or scattered like rubbish among loose crumbling de&acute;bris as if weathered out of the solid as boulders of disintegration; they mostly occur singly, and are lying on a clean pavement on which the sunshine falls in a glare that contrasts with the shimmer of light and shade we have been accustomed to in the leafy woods.  And, strange to say, these boulders lying so still and deserted, with no moving force near them, no boulder carrier anywhere in sight, were nevertheless brought from a distance, as difference in color and composition shows, quarried and carried and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:laid down here each in its place; nor have they stirred, most of them, through calm and storm since first they arrived.  They look lonely here, strangers in a strange land, --huge blocks, angular mountain chips, the largest twenty or thirty feet in diameter, the chips that Nature has made in modeling her landscapes, fashioning the forms of her mountains and valleys.  And with what tool were they quarried and carried?  On the pavement we find its marks.  The most resisting unweathered portion of the surface is scored and striated in a rigidly parallel way, indicating that the region has been overswept by a glacier from the northeastward, grinding down the general mass of the mountains, scoring and polishing, producing a strange, raw, wiped appearance, and dropping whatever boulders it chanced to be carrying at the time it was melted at the close of the Glacial Period.  A fine discovery this.  As for the forests we have been passing through, they are probably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">A Glacial Boulder</HI>
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134.sgm:<P>Out of the grassy meadow and down over this ice-planed granite runs the glad young Tamarack Creek, rejoicing, exulting, chanting, dancing in white, glowing, irised falls and cascades on its way to the Merced Can&tilde;on, a few miles below Yosemite, falling more than three thousand feet in a distance of about two miles.</P>
134.sgm:<P>All the Merced streams are wonderful singers, and Yosemite is the centre where the main tributaries meet.  From a point about half a mile from our camp we can see into the lower end of the famous valley, with its wonderful cliffs and groves, a grand page of mountain manuscript that I would gladly give my life to be able to read.  How vast it seems, how short human life when we happen to think of it, and how little we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Have greatly enjoyed all this huge day, sauntering and seeing, steeping in the mountain influences, sketching, noting, pressing flowers, drinking ozone and Tamarack water.  Found the white fragrant Washington lily, the finest of all the Sierra lilies.  Its bulbs are buried in shaggy chaparral tangles, I suppose for safety from pawing bears; and its magnificent panicles sway and rock over the top of the rough snow-pressed bushes, while big, bold, blunt-nosed bees drone and mumble in its polleny bells.  A lovely flower, worth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>A log house serves to mark a claim to the Tamarack meadow, which may become valuable as a station in case travel to Yosemite should greatly increase.  Belated parties occasionally stop here.  A white man with an Indian woman is holding possession of the place.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Sauntered up the meadow about sundown, out of sight of camp and sheep and all human mark, into the deep peace of the solemn old woods, everything glowing with Heaven's unquenchable enthusiasm.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The Don has returned, and again we go on pilgrimage.  "Looking over the Yosemite Creek country," he said, "from the tops of the hills you see nothing but rocks and patches of trees; but when you go down into the rocky desert you find no end of small grassy banks and meadows, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>I was glad to hear that the high snow made a stay in the Yosemite region necessary, for I am anxious to see as much of it as possible.  What fine times I shall have sketching, studying plants and rocks, and scrambling about the brink of the great valley alone, out of sight and sound of camp!</P>
134.sgm:<P>We saw another party of Yosemite tourists to-day.  Somehow most of these travelers seem to care but little for the glorious objects about them, though enough to spend time and money and endure long rides to see the famous valley.  And when they are fairly within the mighty walls of the temple and hear the psalms of the falls, they will forget themselves and become devout.  Blessed, indeed, should be every pilgrim in these holy mountains!</P>
134.sgm:<P>We moved slowly eastward along the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The woods we passed through are composed almost wholly of <HI REND="italics">Abies magnifica</HI>
134.sgm:, the companion species, <HI REND="italics">concolor</HI>
134.sgm:, being mostly left behind on account of altitude, while the increasing elevation seems grateful to the charming <HI REND="italics">magnifica</HI>
134.sgm:.  No words can do anything like justice to this noble tree.  At one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The sheep are lying down on a bare rocky spot such as they like, chewing the cud in grassy peace.  Cooking is going on, appetites growing keener every day.  No lowlander can appreciate the mountain appetite, and the facility with which heavy food called "grub" is disposed of.  Eating, walking, resting, seem alike delightful, and one feels inclined to shout lustily on rising in the morning like a crowing cock.  Sleep and digestion as clear as the air.  Fine spicy plush boughs for bedding we shall have tonight, and a glorious lullaby from this cascading creek.  Never was stream more fittingly named, for as far as I have traced it above and below our camp it is one continuous bouncing, dancing, white bloom of cascades.  And at the very last unwearied it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:finishes its wild course in a grand leap of three hundred feet or more to the bottom of the main Yosemite can&tilde;on near the fall of Tamarack Creek, a few miles below the foot of the valley.  These falls almost rival some of the far-famed Yosemite falls.  Never shall I forget these glad cascade songs, the low booming, the roaring, the keen, silvery clashing of the cool water rushing exulting from form to form beneath irised spray; or in the deep still night seen white in the darkness, and its multitude of voices sounding still more impressively sublime.  Here I find the little water ouzel as much at home as any linnet in a leafy grove, seeming to take the greater delight the more boisterous the stream.  The dizzy precipices, the swift dashing energy displayed, and the thunder tones of the sheer falls are awe inspiring, but there is nothing awful about this little bird.  Its song is sweet and low, and all its gestures, as it flits about amid the loud uproar, bespeak strength and peace and joy.  Contemplating <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Our course all day has been eastward over the rim of Yosemite Creek basin and down about halfway to the bottom, where we have encamped on a sheet of glacier-polished granite, a firm foundation for beds.  Saw the tracks of a very large bear on the trail, and the Don talked of bears in general.  I said I should like to see the maker of these immense tracks as he marched along, and follow him for days, without disturbing him, to learn something of the life of this master beast of the wilderness.  Lambs, the Don told me, born in the lowland, that never saw or heard a bear, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:snort and run in terror when they catch the scent, showing how fully they have inherited a knowledge of their enemy.  Hogs, mules, horses, and cattle are afraid of bears, and are seized with ungovernable terror when they approach, particularly hogs and mules.  Hogs are frequently driven to pastures in the foothills of the Coast Range and Sierra where acorns are abundant, and are herded in droves of hundreds like sheep.  When a bear comes to the range they promptly leave it, emigrating in a body, usually in the night time, the keepers being powerless to prevent; they thus show more sense than sheep, that simply scatter in the rocks and brush and await their fate.  Mules flee like the wind with or without riders when they see a bear, and, if picketed, sometimes break their necks in trying to break their ropes, though I have not heard of bears killing mules or horses.  Of hogs they are said to be particularly fond, bolting small ones, bones and all, without choice of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Night is coming on, the gray rock waves are growing dim in the twilight.  How raw and young this region appears!  Had the ice sheet that swept over it vanished but yesterday, its traces on the more resisting portions about our camp could hardly be more distinct than they now are.  The horses and sheep and all of us, indeed, slipped on the smoothest places.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--How deathlike is sleep in this mountain air, and quick the awakening into newness of life!  A calm dawn, yellow and purple, then floods of sun-gold, making everything tingle and glow.</P>
134.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>In an hour or two we came to Yosemite Creek, the stream that makes the greatest of all the Yosemite falls.  It is about forty feet wide at the Mono Trail crossing, and now about four feet in average depth, flowing about three miles an hour.  The distance to the verge of the Yosemite wall, where it makes its tremendous plunge, is only about two miles from here.  Calm, beautiful, and nearly silent, it glides with stately gestures, a dense growth of the slender two-leaved pine along its banks, and a fringe of willow, purple spirea, sedges, daisies, lilies, and columbines.  Some of the sedges and willow boughs dip into the current, and just outside of the close ranks of trees there is a sunny flat of washed gravelly sand which seems to have been deposited by some ancient flood.  It is covered with millions of erethrea, eriogonum, and oxytheca, with more flowers than leaves, forming an even growth, slightly dimpled and ruffled here and there by rosettes of <HI REND="italics">Spraguea umbellata</HI>
134.sgm:.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:Back of this flowery strip there is a wavy upsloping plain of solid granite, so smoothly ice-polished in many places that it glistens in the sun like glass.  In shallow hollows there are patches of trees, mostly the rough form of the two-leaved pine, rather scrawny looking where there is little or no soil.  Also a few junipers ( <HI REND="italics">Juniperus occidentalis</HI>
134.sgm:<P>Up towards the head of the basin I see groups of domes rising above the wave-like ridges, and some picturesque castellated masses, and dark strips and patches of silver fir, indicating deposits of fertile soil.  Would that I could command the time to study them!  What rich excursions one could make in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The drivers and dogs had a lively, laborious time getting the sheep across the creek, the second large stream thus far that they have been compelled to cross without a bridge; the first being the North Fork of the Merced near Bower Cave.  Men and dogs, shouting and barking, drove the timid, water-fearing creatures in a close crowd against the bank, but not one of the flock would launch away.  While thus jammed, the Don and the shepherd rushed through the frightened crowd to stampede those in front, but this would only cause a break backward, and away they would scamper through the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>If only one could be got to cross over, all would make haste to follow; but that one could not be found.  A lamb was caught, carried across, and tied to a bush on the opposite bank, where it cried piteously for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>In a few hours the inclosure was completed, and the silly animals were driven in and rammed hard against the brink of the ford.  Then the Don, forcing a way through the compacted mass, pitched a few of the terrified unfortunates into the stream by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:main strength; but instead of crossing over, they swam about close to the bank, making desperate attempts to get back into the flock.  Then a dozen or more were shoved off, and the Don, tall like a crane and a good natural wader, jumped in after them, seized a struggling wether, and dragged it to the opposite shore.  But no sooner did he let it go than it jumped into the stream and swam back to its frightened companions in the corral, thus manifesting sheep-nature as unchangeable as gravitation.  Pan with his pipes would have had no better luck, I fear.  We were now pretty well baffled.  The silly creatures would suffer any sort of death rather than cross that stream.  Calling a council, the dripping Don declared that starvation was now the only likely scheme to try, and that we might as well camp here in comfort and let the besieged flock grow hungry and cool, and come to their senses, if they had any.  In a few minutes after being thus let alone, an adventurer in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>As the day was far spent, we camped a little way back from the ford, and let the dripping flock scatter and feed until sundown.  The wool is dry now, and calm, cud-chewing peace has fallen on all the comfortable band, leaving no trace of the watery <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Followed the Mono Trail up the eastern rim of the basin nearly to its summit, then turned off southward to a small shallow valley that extends to the edge of the Yosemite, which we reached about noon, and encamped.  After luncheon I made haste to high ground, and from the top of the ridge on the west side of Indian Can&tilde;on gained the noblest view of the summit peaks I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:ever yet enjoyed.  Nearly all the upper basin of the Merced was displayed, with its sublime domes and can&tilde;ons, dark upsweeping forests, and glorious array of white peaks deep in the sky, every feature glowing, radiating beauty that pours into our flesh and bones like heat rays from fire.  Sunshine over all; no breath of wind to stir the brooding calm.  Never before had I seen so glorious a landscape, so boundless an affluence of sublime mountain beauty.  The most extravagant description I might give of this view to any one who has not seen similar landscapes with his own eyes would not so much as hint its grandeur and the spiritual glow that covered it.  I shouted and gesticulated in a wild burst of ecstasy, much to the astonishment of St. Bernard Carlo, who came running up to me, manifesting in his intelligent eyes a puzzled concern that was very ludicrous, which had the effect of bringing me to my senses.  A brown bear, too, it would seem, had been a spectator of the show I had made of myself, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Following the ridge which made a gradual descent to the south, I came at length to the brow of that massive cliff that stands between Indian Can&tilde;on and Yosemite Falls, and here the far-famed valley came suddenly into view throughout almost its whole extent.  The noble walls--sculptured into endless variety of domes and gables, spires and battlements and plain mural precipices--all a-tremble with the thunder tones of the falling water.  The level bottom seemed to be dressed like a garden, --sunny meadows here and there, and groves of pine and oak; the river of Mercy sweeping in majesty through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>I rambled along the valley rim to the westward; most of it is rounded off on the very brink, so that it is not easy to find places where one may look clear down the face of the wall to the bottom.  When such places were found, and I had cautiously set my feet and drawn my body erect, I could not help fearing a little that the rock might split off and let me down, and what a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>After a mile or so of this memorable cliff work I approached Yosemite Creek, admiring its easy, graceful, confident gestures as it comes bravely forward in its narrow channel, singing the last of its mountain songs on its way to its fate--a few rods more over the shining granite, then down half a mile in snowy foam to another world, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>I took off my shoes and stockings and worked my way cautiously down alongside the rushing flood, keeping my feet and hands pressed firmly on the polished rock.  The booming, roaring water, rushing past close to my head, was very exciting.  I had expected that the sloping apron would terminate with the perpendicular wall of the valley, and that from the foot of it, where it is less steeply inclined, I should be able to lean far enough out to see the forms and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:behavior of the fall all the way down to the bottom.  But I found that there was yet another small brow over which I could not see, and which appeared to be too steep for mortal feet.  Scanning it keenly, I discovered a narrow shelf about three inches wide on the very brink, just wide enough for a rest for one's heels.  But there seemed to be no way of reaching it over so steep a brow.  At length, after careful scrutiny of the surface, I found an irregular edge of a flake of the rock some distance back from the margin of the torrent.  If I was to get down to the brink at all that rough edge, which might offer slight finger holds, was the only way.  But the slope beside it looked dangerously smooth and steep, and the swift roaring flood beneath, overhead, and beside me was very nerve-trying.  I therefore concluded not to venture farther, but did nevertheless.  Tufts of artemisia were growing in clefts of the rock near by, and I filled my mouth with the bitter leaves, hoping they might help to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>While perched on that narrow niche I was not distinctly conscious of danger.  The tremendous grandeur of the fall in form and sound and motion, acting at close range, smothered the sense of fear, and in such places one's body takes keen care for safety on its own account.  How long I remained down there, or how I returned, I can hardly tell.  Anyhow I had a glorious time, and got back to camp about dark, enjoying triumphant exhilaration soon followed by dull <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--My enjoyments yesterday afternoon, especially at the head of the fall, were too great for good sleep.  Kept starting up last night in a nervous tremor, half awake, fancying that the foundation of the mountain we were camped on had given way and was falling into Yosemite Valley.  In vain I roused myself to make a new beginning for sound sleep.  The nerve strain had been too great, and again and again I dreamed I was rushing through the air above a glorious avalanche of water and rocks.  One <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Left camp soon after sunrise for an all day ramble eastward.  Crossed the head of Indian Basin, forested with <HI REND="italics">Abies magnifica</HI>
134.sgm:, underbrush mostly <HI REND="italics">Ceanothus cordulatus</HI>
134.sgm: and manzanita, a mixture not easily trampled over or penetrated, for the ceanothus is thorny and grows in dense snow-pressed masses, and the manzanita has exceedingly crooked, stubborn branches.  From the head of the can&tilde;on continued on past North Dome into the basin of Dome or Porcupine Creek.  Here are many fine meadows imbedded in the woods, gay with <HI REND="italics">Lilium parvum</HI>
134.sgm: and its companions; the elevation, about eight thousand feet, seems to be best suited for it--saw specimens that were a foot or two higher than my head.  Had more magnificent views of the upper mountains, and of the great South Dome, said to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--A new camp was made today in a magnificent silver fir grove at the head of a small stream that flows into Yosemite by way of Indian Can&tilde;on.  Here we intend to stay several weeks, --a fine location from which to make excursions about the great valley and its fountains.  Glorious days I'll have sketching, pressing plants, studying the wonderful topography, and the wild animals, our happy fellow mortals and neighbors.  But the vast mountains in the distance, shall I ever know them, shall I be allowed to enter into their midst and dwell with them?</P>
134.sgm:<P>We were pelted about noon by a short, heavy rain-storm, sublime thunder <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Have got my bed made in our new camp, --plushy, sumptuous, and deliciously fragrant, most of it <HI REND="italics">magnifica</HI>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Slept pretty well; the valley walls did not seem to fall, though I still fancied myself at the brink, alongside the white, plunging flood, especially when half asleep.  Strange the danger of that adventure should be more troublesome now that I am in the bosom of the peaceful woods, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Bears seem to be common here, judging by their tracks.  About noon we had another rain-storm with keen startling thunder, the metallic, ringing, clashing, clanging notes gradually fading into low bass rolling and muttering in the distance.  For a few minutes the rain came in a grand torrent like a waterfall, then hail; some of the hailstones an inch in diameter, hard, icy, and irregular in form, like those oftentimes seen in Wisconsin.  Carlo watched them with intelligent astonishment as they came pelting and thrashing through the quivering branches of the trees.  The cloud scenery sublime.  Afternoon calm, sunful, and clear, with delicious freshness and fragrance from the firs and flowers and steaming ground.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Watching the daybreak and sunrise.  The pale rose and purple sky changing softly to daffodil yellow and white, sunbeams pouring through the passes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>About noon, as usual, big bossy cumuli began to grow above the forest, and the rain storm pouring from them is the most imposing I have yet seen.  The silvery zigzag lightning lances are longer than usual, and the thunder gloriously impressive, keen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:crashing, intensely concentrated, speaking with such tremendous energy it would seem that an entire mountain is being shattered at every stroke, but probably only a few trees are being shattered, many of which I have seen on my walks hereabouts strewing the ground.  At last the clear ringing strokes are succeeded by deep low tones that grow gradually fainter as they roll afar into the recesses of the echoing mountains, where they seem to be welcomed home.  Then another and another peal, or rather crashing, splintering stroke, follows in quick succession, perchance splitting some giant pine or fir from top to bottom into long rails and slivers, and scattering them to all points of the compass.  Now comes the rain, with corresponding extravagant grandeur, covering the ground high and low with a sheet of flowing water, a transparent film fitted like a skin upon the rugged anatomy of the landscape, making the rocks glitter and glow, gathering in the ravines, flooding the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Thunder-storm over Yosemite</HI>
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134.sgm:<P>How interesting to trace the history of a single raindrop!  It is not long, geologically speaking, as we have seen, since the first raindrops fell on the newborn leafless Sierra landscapes.  How different the lot of these falling now!  Happy the showers that fall on so fair a wilderness, --scarce a single drop can fail to find a beautiful spot, --on the tops of the peaks, on the shining glacier pavements, on the great smooth domes, on forests and gardens and brushy moraines, plashing, glinting, pattering, laving.  Some go to the high snowy fountains to swell their well-saved stores; some into the lakes, washing the mountain windows, patting their smooth glassy levels, making dimples and bubbles and spray; some into the water-falls and cascades, as if eager to join in their dance and song and beat their foam yet finer; good luck and good work for the happy mountain raindrops, each one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:them a high waterfall in itself, descending from the cliffs and hollows of the clouds to the cliffs and hollows of the rocks, out of the sky-thunder into the thunder of the falling rivers.  Some, falling on meadows and bogs, creep silently out of sight to the grass roots, hiding softly as in a nest, slipping, oozing hither, thither, seeking and finding their appointed work.  Some, descending through the spires of the woods, sift spray through the shining needles, whispering peace and good cheer to each one of them.  Some drops with happy aim glint on the sides of crystals, --quartz, hornblende, garnet, zircon, tourmaline, feldspar, --patter on grains of gold and heavy way-worn nuggets; some, with blunt plap-plap and low bass drumming, fall on the broad leaves of veratrum, saxifrage, cypripedium.  Some happy drops fall straight into the cups of flowers, kissing the lips of lilies.  How far they have to go, how many cups to fill, great and small, cells too small to be seen, cups <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Now the storm is over, the sky is clear, the last rolling thunder-wave is spent on the peaks, and where are the raindrops now--what has become of all the shining throng?  In winged vapor rising some are already hastening back to the sky, some have gone into the plants, creeping through invisible doors into the round rooms of cells, some are locked in crystals of ice, some in rock crystals, some in porous moraines to keep their small springs flowing, some have gone journeying on in the rivers to join the larger raindrop of the ocean.  From form <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Fine calm morning; air tense and clear; not the slightest breeze astir; everything shining, the rocks with wet crystals, the plants with dew, each receiving its portion of irised dewdrops and sunshine like living creatures getting their breakfast, their dew manna coming down from the starry sky like swarms of smaller stars.  How wondrous fine are the particles in showers of dew, thousands required for a single drop, growing in the dark as silently as the grass!  What pains are taken to keep this wilderness in health, --showers of snow, showers of rain, showers of dew, floods of light, floods of invisible vapor, clouds, winds, all sorts of weather, interaction of plant on plant, animal on animal, etc., beyond thought!  How fine Nature's methods!  How deeply with beauty is beauty overlaid! the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Yonder stands the South Dome, its crown high above our camp, though its base is four thousand feet below us; a most noble rock, it seems full of thought, clothed with living light, no sense of dead stone about it, all spiritualized, neither heavy looking nor light, steadfast in serene strength like a god.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Our shepherd is a queer character and hard to place in this wilderness.  His bed is a hollow made in red dry-rot punky dust beside a log which forms a portion of the south wall of the corral.  Here he lies with his wonderful everlasting clothing on, wrapped in a red blanket, breathing not only the dust of the decayed wood but also <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:that of the corral, as if determined to take ammoniacal snuff all night after chewing tobacco all day.  Following the sheep he carries a heavy six-shooter swung from his belt on one side and his luncheon on the other.  The ancient cloth in which the meat, fresh from the frying-pan, is tied serves as a filter through which the clear fat and gravy juices drip down on his right hip and leg in clustering stalactites.  This oleaginous formation is soon broken up, however, and diffused and rubbed evenly into his scanty apparel, by sitting down, rolling over, crossing his legs while resting on logs, etc., making shirt and trousers water-tight and shiny.  His trousers, in particular, have become so adhesive with the mixed fat and resin that pine needles, thin flakes and fibres of bark, hair, mica scales and minute grains of quartz, hornblende, etc., feathers, seed wings, moth and butterfly wings, legs and antenn&aelig; of innumerable insects, or even whole insects such as the small beetles, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Besides herding the sheep, Billy is the butcher, while I have agreed to wash the few iron and tin utensils and make the bread.  Then, these small duties done, by the time the sun is fairly above the mountain-tops I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Sketching on the North Dome.  It commands views of nearly all the valley besides a few of the high mountains.  I would fain draw everything in sight, --rock, tree, and leaf.  But little can I do beyond mere outlines, --marks with meanings like words, readable only to myself, --yet I sharpen my pencils and work on as if others might possibly be benefited.  Whether these picture sheets are to vanish like fallen leaves or go to friends like letters, matters not much; for little can they tell to those who have not themselves seen similar wildness, and like a language have learned it.  No pain here, no dull empty hours, no fear of the past, no fear of the future.  These blessed mountains are so compactly filled with God's beauty, no petty personal hope or experience has room to be.  Drinking this champagne water is pure pleasure, so is breathing the living air, and every movement of limbs is pleasure, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Perched like a fly on this Yosemite dome, I gaze and sketch and bask, oftentimes settling down into dumb admiration without definite hope of ever learning much, yet with the longing, unresting effort that lies at the door of hope, humbly prostrate before the vast display of God's power, and eager to offer self-denial and renunciation with eternal toil to learn any lesson in the divine manuscript.</P>
134.sgm:<P>It is easier to feel than to realize, or in any way explain Yosemite grandeur.  The magnitudes of the rocks and trees and streams are so delicately harmonized they are mostly hidden.  Sheer precipices three thousand feet high are fringed with tall trees growing close <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:like grass on the brow of a lowland hill, and extending along the feet of these precipices a ribbon of meadow a mile wide and seven or eight long, that seems like a strip a farmer might mow in less than a day.  Waterfalls, five hundred to one or two thousand feet high, are so subordinated to the mighty cliffs over which they pour that they seem like wisps of smoke, gentle as floating clouds, though their voices fill the valley and make the rocks tremble.  The mountains, too, along the eastern sky, and the domes in front of them, and the succession of smooth rounded waves between, swelling higher, higher, with dark woods in their hollows, serene in massive exuberant bulk and beauty, tend yet more to hide the grandeur of the Yosemite temple and make it appear as a subdued subordinate feature of the vast harmonious landscape.  Thus every attempt to appreciate any one feature is beaten down by the overwhelming influence of all the others.  And, as if this were not enough, lo! in the sky arises <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:another mountain range with topography as rugged and substantial-looking as the one beneath it--snowy peaks and domes and shadowy Yosemite valleys--another version of the snowy Sierra, a new creation heralded by a thunder-storm.  How fiercely, devoutly wild is Nature in the midst of her beauty-loving tenderness!--painting lilies, watering them, caressing them with gentle hand, going from flower to flower like a gardener while building rock mountains and cloud mountains full of lightning and rain.  Gladly we run for shelter beneath an overhanging cliff and examine the reassuring ferns and mosses, gentle love tokens growing in cracks and chinks.  Daisies, too, and ivesias, confiding wild children of light, too small to fear.  To these one's heart goes home, and the voices of the storm become gentle.  Now the sun breaks forth and fragrant steam arises.  The birds are out singing on the edges of the groves.  The west is flaming in gold and purple, ready for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Wrote to my mother and a few friends, mountain hints to each.  They seem as near as if within voice-reach or touch.  The deeper the solitude the less the sense of loneliness, and the nearer our friends.  Now bread and tea, fir bed and good-night to Carlo, a look at the sky lilies, and death sleep until the dawn of another Sierra to-morrow.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Sketching on the Dome, --no rain; clouds at noon about quarter filled the sky, casting shadows with fine effect on the white mountains at the heads of the streams, and a soothing cover over the gardens during the warm hours.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Saw a common house fly and a grasshopper and a brown bear.  The fly and grasshopper paid me a merry visit on the top of the Dome, and I paid a visit to the bear in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:the middle of a small garden meadow between the Dome and the camp where he was standing alert among the flowers as if willing to be seen to advantage.  I had not gone more than half a mile from camp this morning, when Carlo, who was trotting on a few yards ahead of me, came to a sudden, cautious standstill.  Down went tail and ears, and forward went his knowing nose, while he seemed to be saying "Ha, what's this?  A bear, I guess,"  Then a cautious advance of a few steps, setting his feet down softly like a hunting cat, and questioning the air as to the scent he had caught until all doubt vanished.  Then he came back to me, looked me in the face, and with his speaking eyes reported a bear near by; then led on softly, careful, like an experienced hunter, not to make the slightest noise, and frequently looking back as if whispering "Yes, it's a bear, come and I'll show you."  Presently we came to where the sunbeams were streaming through between the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:purple shafts of the firs, which showed that we were nearing an open spot, and here Carlo came behind me, evidently sure that the bear was very near.  So I crept to a low ridge of moraine boulders on the edge of a narrow garden meadow, and in this meadow I felt pretty sure the bear must be.  I was anxious to get a good look at the sturdy mountaineer without alarming him; so drawing myself up noiselessly back of one of the largest of the trees I peered past its bulging buttresses, exposing only a part of my head, and there stood neighbor Bruin within a stone's throw, his hips covered by tall grass and flowers, and his front feet on the trunk of a fir that had fallen out into the meadow, which raised his head so high that he seemed to be standing erect.  He had not yet seen me, but was looking and listening attentively, showing that in some way he was aware of our approach.  I watched his gestures and tried to make the most of my opportunity to learn what I could about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:him, fearing he would catch sight of me and run away.  For I had been told that this sort of bear, the cinnamon, always ran from his bad brother man, never showing fight unless wounded or in defense of young.  He made a telling picture standing alert in the sunny forest garden.  How well he played his part, harmonizing in bulk and color and shaggy hair with the trunks of the trees and lush vegetation, as natural a feature as any other in the landscape.  After examining at leisure, noting the sharp muzzle thrust inquiringly forward, the long shaggy hair on his broad chest, the stiff erect ears nearly buried in hair, and the slow heavy way he moved his head, I thought I should like to see his gait in running, so I made a sudden rush at him, shouting and swinging my hat to frighten him, expecting to see him make haste to get away.  But to my dismay he did not run or show any sign of running.  On the contrary, he stood his ground ready to fight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:and defend himself, lowered his head, thrust it forward, and looked sharply and fiercely at me.  Then I suddenly began to fear that upon me would fall the work of running; but I was afraid to run, and therefore, like the bear, held my ground.  We stood staring at each other in solemn silence within a dozen yards or thereabouts, while I fervently hoped that the power of the human eye over wild beasts would prove as great as it is said to be.  How long our awfully strenuous interview lasted, I don't know; but at length in the slow fullness of time he pulled his huge paws down off the log, and with magnificent deliberation turned and walked leisurely up the meadow, stopping frequently to look back over his shoulder to see whether I was pursuing him, then moving on again, evidently neither fearing me very much nor trusting me.  He was probably about five hundred pounds in weight, a broad rusty bundle of ungovernable wildness, a happy fellow whose lines have fallen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>In the great can&tilde;ons Bruin reigns supreme.  Happy fellow, whom no famine can reach while one of his thousand kinds of food is spared him.  His bread is sure at all seasons, ranged on the mountain shelves like stores in a pantry.  From one to the other, up or down he climbs, tasting and enjoying each in turn in different climates, as if he had journeyed thousands of miles to other countries north or south to enjoy their varied productions.  I should like to know my hairy brothers better, --though after this particular Yosemite bear, my very neighbor, had sauntered out of sight this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The house fly also seemed at home and buzzed about me as I sat sketching, and enjoying my bear interview now it was over.  I wonder what draws house flies so far up the mountains, heavy, gross feeders as they are, sensitive to cold, and fond of domestic ease.  How have they been distributed from continent to continent, across seas and deserts and mountain chains, usually so influential in determining boundaries of species both of plants and animals.  Beetles and butterflies are sometimes restricted to small areas.  Each mountain in a range, and even the different zones of a mountain, may have its own peculiar species.  But the house fly seems to be everywhere.  I wonder if any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>A queer fellow and a jolly fellow is the grasshopper.  Up the mountains he comes on excursions, how high I don't know, but at least as far and high as Yosemite tourists.  I was much interested with the hearty enjoyment of the one that danced and sang for me on the Dome this afternoon.  He seemed brimful of glad, hilarious energy, manifested by springing into the air to a height of twenty or thirty feet, then diving and springing up again and making a sharp musical rattle just as the lowest point in the descent was reached.  Up and down a dozen times or so he danced and sang, then alighted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:to rest, then up and at it again.  The curves he described in the air in diving and rattling resembled those made by cords hanging loosely and attached at the same height <illus entity="a134-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TRACK OF SINGING DANCING GRASSHOPPER IN THE AIR OVER NORTH DOME</P>
134.sgm:at the ends, the loops nearly covering each other.  Braver, heartier, keener, care-free enjoyment of life I have never seen or heard in any creature, great or small.  The life of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:this comic redlegs, the mountain's merriest child, seems to be made up of pure, condensed gayety.  The Douglas squirrel is the only living creature that I can compare him with in exuberant, rollicking, irrepressible jollity.  Wonderful that these sublime mountains are so loudly cheered and brightened by a creature so queer.  Nature in him seems to be snapping her fingers in the face of all earthy dejection and melancholy with a boyish hip-hip-hurrah.  How the sound is made I do not understand.  When he was on the ground he made not the slightest noise, nor when he was simply flying from place to place, but only when diving in curves, the motion seeming to be required for the sound; for the more vigorous the diving the more energetic the corresponding outbursts of jolly rattling.  I tried to observe him closely while he was resting in the intervals of his performances; but he would not allow a near approach, always getting his jumping legs ready to spring for immediate flight, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Sundown, and I must to camp.  Goodnight, friends three, --brown bear, rugged boulder of energy in groves and gardens fair as Eden; restless fussy fly with gauzy wings stirring the air around all the world; and grasshopper, crisp electric spark of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--A fine specimen of the blacktailed deer went bounding past camp this morning.  A buck with wide spread of antlers, showing admirable vigor and grace.  Wonderful the beauty, strength, and graceful movements of animals in wildernesses, cared for by Nature only, when our experience with domestic animals would lead us to fear that all the so-called neglected wild beasts would degenerate.  Yet the upshot of Nature's method of breeding and teaching seems to lead to excellence of every sort.  Deer, like all wild animals, are as clean as plants.  The beauties of their gestures and attitudes, alert or in repose, surprise yet more than their bounding exuberant strength.  Every movement and posture is graceful, the very poetry of manners and motion.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Have been sketching a silver fir that stands on a granite ridge a few hundred yards <illus entity="a134-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MT. CLARK.  TOP OF S. DOME.  MT. STARR KING ABIES MAGNIFICA</P>
134.sgm:to the eastward of camp, --a fine tree with a particular snow-storm story to tell.  It is about one hundred feet high, growing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:on bare rock, thrusting its roots into a weathered joint less than an inch wide, and bulging out to form a base to bear its weight.  The storm came from the north while it was young and broke it down nearly to the ground, as is shown by the old, dead, weather-beaten top leaning out from the living trunk built up from a new shoot below the break.  The annual rings of the trunk that have overgrown the dead sapling tell the year of the storm.  Wonderful that a side branch forming a portion of one of the level collars that encircle the trunk of this species ( <HI REND="italics">Abies magnifica</HI>
134.sgm:<P>Many others, pines as well as firs, bear testimony to the crushing severity of this particular storm.  Trees, some of them fifty to seventy-five feet high, were bent to the ground and buried like grass, whole groves vanishing as if the forest had been cleared away, leaving not a branch or needle visible <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:until the spring thaw.  Then the more elastic undamaged saplings rose again, aided by the wind, some reaching a nearly erect attitude, others remaining more or less bent, while those with broken backs endeavored to specialize a side branch below the break <illus entity="a134-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ILLUSTRATING GROWTH OF NEW PINE FROM BRANCH BELOW THE BREAK OF AXIS OF SNOW-CRUSHED TREE</P>
134.sgm:and make a leader of it to form a new axis of development.  It is as if a man, whose back was broken or nearly so and who was compelled to go bent, should find a branch backbone sprouting straight up from below <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Grand white cloud mountains and domes created about noon as usual, ridges and ranges of endless variety, as if Nature dearly loved this sort of work, doing it again and again nearly every day with infinite industry, and producing beauty that never palls.  A few zigzags of lightning, five minutes' shower, then a gradual wilting and clearing.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Another midday cloudland, displaying power and beauty that one never wearies in beholding, but hopelessly unsketchable and untellable.  What can poor mortals say about clouds?  While a description of their huge glowing domes and ridges, shadowy gulfs and can&tilde;ons, and feather-edged ravines is being tried, they vanish, leaving no visible ruins.  Nevertheless, these fleeting sky mountains are as substantial and significant as the more lasting upheavals of granite beneath them.  Both alike are built <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Clouds at noon occupying about half the sky gave half an hour of heavy rain to wash one of the cleanest landscapes in the world.  How well it is washed!  The sea is hardly less dusty than the ice-burnished pavements and ridges, domes and can&tilde;ons, and summit peaks plashed with snow like waves with foam.  How fresh the woods are and calm after the last films of clouds have been wiped from the sky!  A few minutes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:ago every tree was excited, bowing to the roaring storm, waving, swirling, tossing their branches in glorious enthusiasm like worship.  But though to the outer ear these trees are now silent, their songs never cease.  Every hidden cell is throbbing with music and life, every fibre thrilling like harp strings, while incense is ever flowing from the balsam bells and leaves.  No wonder the hills and groves were God's first temples, and the more they are cut down and hewn into cathedrals and churches, the farther off and dimmer seems the Lord himself.  The same may be said of stone temples.  Yonder, to the eastward of our camp grove, stands one of Nature's cathedrals, hewn from the living rock, almost conventional in form, about two thousand feet high, nobly adorned with spires and pinnacles, thrilling under floods of sunshine as if alive like a grove-temple, and well named "Cathedral Peak."  Even Shepherd Billy turns at times to this wonderful mountain building, though apparently deaf to all stone <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:sermons.  Snow that refused to melt in fire would hardly be more wonderful than unchanging dullness in the rays of God's beauty.  I have been trying to get him to walk to the brink of Yosemite for a view, offering to watch the sheep for a day, while he should enjoy what tourists come from all over the world to see.  But though within a mile of the famous valley, he will not go to it even out of mere curiosity.  "What," says he, "is Yosemite but a can&tilde;on--a lot of rocks--a hole in the ground--a place dangerous about falling into--a d--d good place to keep away from."  "But think of the waterfalls, Billy--just think of that big stream we crossed the other day, falling half a mile through the air--think of that, and the sound it makes.  You can hear it now like the roar of the sea."  Thus I pressed Yosemite upon him like a missionary offering the gospel, but he would have none of it.  "I should be afraid to look over so high a wall," he said.  "It would make my head swim.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Another cloudland.  Some clouds have an over-ripe decaying look, watery and bedraggled and drawn out into wind-torn shreds and patches, giving the sky a littered appearance; not so these Sierra summer midday clouds.  All are beautiful with smooth definite outlines and curves like those of glacier-polished domes.  They begin to grow about eleven o'clock, and seem so wonderfully near and clear from this high camp one is tempted to try to climb them and trace the streams that pour like cataracts from their shadowy fountains.  The rain to which they give birth is often very heavy, a sort of waterfall as imposing as if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Ramble to the summit of Mt. Hoffman, eleven thousand feet high, the highest point in life's journey my feet have yet touched.  And what glorious landscapes are about me, new plants, new animals, new crystals, and multitudes of new mountains far higher than Hoffman, towering in glorious array along the axis of the range, serene, majestic, snow-laden, sundrenched, vast domes and ridges shining below them, forests, lakes, and meadows in the hollows, the pure blue bell-flower sky brooding them all, --a glory day of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Mt. Hoffman is the highest part of a ridge or spur about fourteen miles from the axis of the main range, perhaps a remnant brought into relief and isolated by unequal denudation.  The southern slopes shed their waters into Yosemite Valley by Tenaya and Dome Creeks, the northern in part into the Tuolumne River, but mostly into the Merced by Yosemite Creek.  The rock is mostly granite, with some small piles and crests rising here and there in picturesque pillared and castellated remnants of red metamorphic slates.  Both the granite and slates are divided by joints, making them separable into blocks like the stones of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:artificial masonry, suggesting the Scripture "He hath builded the mountains."  Great banks <illus entity="a134-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>APPROACH OF DOME CREEK TO YOSEMITE</P>
134.sgm:of snow and ice are piled in hollows on the cool precipitous north side forming the highest perennial sources of Yosemite Creek.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The broad gray summit is barren and desolate-looking in general views, wasted by ages of gnawing storms; but looking at the surface in detail, one finds it covered by thousands and millions of charming plants with leaves and flowers so small they form no mass of color visible at a distance of a few hundred yards.  Beds of azure daisies smile confidingly in moist hollows, and along the banks of small rills, with several species of eriogonum, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:silky-leaved ivesia, pentstemon, orthocarpus, and patches of <HI REND="italics">Primula suffruticosa</HI>
134.sgm:, a beautiful shrubby species.  Here also I found bryanthus, a charming heathwort covered with purple flowers and dark green foliage like heather, and three trees new to me, --a hemlock and two pines.  The hemlock ( <HI REND="italics">Tsuga Mertensiana</HI>
134.sgm: ) is the most beautiful conifer I have ever seen; the branches and also the main axis droop in a singularly graceful way, and the dense foliage covers the delicate, sensitive, swaying branchlets all around.  It is now in full bloom, and the flowers, together with thousands of last season's cones still clinging to the drooping sprays, display wonderful wealth of color, brown and purple and blue.  Gladly I climbed the first tree I found to revel in the midst of it.  How the touch of the flowers makes one's flesh tingle!  The pistillate are dark, rich purple, and almost translucent, the staminate blue, --a vivid, pure tone of blue like the mountain sky, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The two pines also are brave stormenduring trees, the mountain pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus monticola</HI>
134.sgm: ) and the dwarf pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus albicaulis</HI>
134.sgm:<P>How boundless the day seems as we revel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Foliage and Cones of Sierra Hemlock (Tsuga Mertensiana)</HI>
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134.sgm:<P>From garden to garden, ridge to ridge, I drifted enchanted, now on my knees gazing into the face of a daisy, now climbing again and again among the purple and azure flowers of the hemlocks, now down into the treasuries of the snow, or gazing afar over domes and peaks, lakes and woods, and the billowy glaciated fields of the upper Tuolumne, and trying to sketch them.  In the midst of such beauty, pierced with its rays, one's body is all one tingling palate.  Who would n't be a mountaineer!  Up here all the world's prizes seem nothing.</P>
134.sgm:<P>The largest of the many glacier lakes in sight, and the one with the finest shore scenery, is Tenaya, about a mile long, with an imposing mountain dipping its feet into it on the south side, Cathedral Peak a few miles above its head, many smooth swelling rock-waves and domes on the north, and in the distance southward a multitude of snowy peaks, the fountain-heads of rivers.  Lake Hoffman lies shimmering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Carlo caught an unfortunate woodchuck when it was running from a grassy spot to its boulder-pile home--one of the hardiest of the mountain animals.  I tried hard to save him, but in vain.  After telling Carlo that he must be careful not to kill anything, I caught sight, for the first time, of the curious pika, or little chief hare, that cuts large quantities of lupines and other plants and lays them out to dry in the sun for hay, which it stores in underground barns to last through the long, snowy winter.  Coming upon these plants freshly cut and lying in handfuls here and there on the rocks has a startling effect of busy life <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>An eagle soaring above a sheer cliff, where I suppose its nest is, makes another striking show of life, and helps to bring to mind the other people of the so-called solitude, --deer in the forest caring for their young; the strong, well-clad, well-fed bears; the lively throng of squirrels; the blessed birds, great and small, stirring and sweetening the groves; and the clouds of happy insects filling the sky with joyous hum as part and parcel of the down-pouring sunshine.  All these come to mind, as well as the plant people, and the glad streams singing their way to the sea.  But most impressive of all is the vast glowing countenance of the wilderness in awful, infinite repose.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Toward sunset, enjoyed a fine run to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Up and away to Lake Tenaya, --another big day, enough for a lifetime.  The rocks, the air, everything speaking with audible voice or silent; joyful, wonderful, enchanting, banishing weariness and sense of time.  No longing for anything now or hereafter as we go home into the mountain's heart.  The level sunbeams are touching the fir-tops, every leaf shining with dew.  Am holding an easterly course, the deep can&tilde;on of Tenaya Creek on the right hand, Mt. Hoffman on the left, and the lake straight ahead about ten miles distant, the summit of Mt. Hoffman about three thousand feet above me, Tenaya Creek four thousand feet below and separated from the shallow, irregular valley, along which most of the way lies, by smooth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The snow on the high mountains is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:melting fast, and the streams are singing bankfull, swaying softly through the level meadows and bogs, quivering with sun-spangles, swirling in pot-holes, resting in deep pools, leaping, shouting in wild, exulting energy over rough boulder dams, joyful, beautiful in all their forms.  No Sierra landscape that I have seen holds anything truly dead or dull, or any trace of what in manufactories is called rubbish or waste; everything is perfectly clean and pure and full of divine lessons.  This quick, inevitable interest attaching to everything seems marvelous until the hand of God becomes visible; then it seems reasonable that what interests Him may well interest us.  When we try to pick out anything by itself, we find it hitched to everything else in the universe.  One fancies a heart like our own must be beating in every crystal and cell, and we feel like stopping to speak to the plants and animals as friendly fellow-mountaineers.  Nature as a poet, an enthusiastic workingman, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>I found three kinds of meadows:--(1) Those contained in basins not yet filled with earth enough to make a dry surface.  They are planted with several species of carex, and have their margins diversified with robust flowering plants such as veratrum, larkspur, lupine, etc.  (2) Those contained in the same sort of basins, once lakes like the first, but so situated in relation to the streams that flow through them and beds of transportable sand, gravel, etc., that they are now high and dry and well drained.  This dry condition and corresponding difference in their vegetation may be caused by no superiority of position, or power of transporting filling material in the streams that belong to them, but simply by the basin being shallow and therefore sooner filled.  They are planted with grasses, mostly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:fine, silky, and rather short-leaved, <HI REND="italics">Calamagrostis</HI>
134.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Agrostis</HI>
134.sgm: being the principal genera.  They form delightfully smooth, level sods in which one finds two or three species of gentian and as many of purple and yellow orthocarpus, violet, vaccinium, kalmia, bryanthus, and lonicera.  (3) Meadows hanging on ridge and mountain slopes, not in basins at all, but made and held in place by masses of boulders and fallen trees, which, forming dams one above another in close succession on small, outspread, channelless streams, have collected soil enough for the growth of grasses, carices, and many flowering plants, and being kept well watered, without being subject to currents sufficiently strong to carry them away, a hanging or sloping meadow is the result.  Their surfaces are seldom so smooth as the others, being roughened more or less by the projecting tops of the dam rocks or logs; but at a little distance this roughness is not noticed, and the effect is very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:striking, --bright green, fluent, down-sweeping flowery ribbons on gray slopes.  The broad shallow streams these meadows belong to are mostly derived from banks of snow and because the soil is well drained in some places, while in others the dam rocks are packed close and caulked with bits of wood and leaves, making boggy patches; the vegetation, of course, is correspondingly varied.  I saw patches of willow, bryanthus, and a fine show of lilies on some of them, not forming a margin, but scattered about among the carex and grass.  Most of these meadows are now in their prime.  How wonderful must be the temper of the elastic leaves of grasses and sedges to make curves so perfect and fine.  Tempered a little harder, they would stand erect, stiff and bristly, like strips of metal; a little softer, and every leaf would lie flat.  And what fine painting and tinting there is on the glumes and pales, stamens and feathery pistils.  Butterflies colored like the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Most of the sandy gardens on moraines are in prime beauty like the meadows, though some on the north sides of rocks and beneath groves of sapling pines have not yet bloomed.  On sunny sheets of crystal soil along the slopes of the Hoffman mountains, I saw extensive patches of ivesia and purple gilia with scarce a green leaf, making fine clouds of color.  Ribes bushes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:vaccinium, and kalmia, now in flower, make beautiful rugs and borders along the banks of the streams.  Shaggy beds of dwarf oak ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus chrysolepis</HI>
134.sgm:, var.  <HI REND="italics">vaccinifolia</HI>
134.sgm:<P>The principal tree for the first mile or two from camp is the magnificent silver fir, which reaches perfection here both in size and form of individual trees and in the mode of grouping in groves with open spaces between.  So trim and tasteful are these silvery, spiry groves one would fancy they must have been placed in position by some master landscape gardener, their regularity seeming almost conventional.  But Nature is the only gardener able to do work so fine.  A few noble specimens two hundred feet high occupy central positions in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Magnificent Silver Firs (Mr. Muir in foreground</HI>
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134.sgm:groups with younger trees around them; and outside of these another circle of yet smaller ones, the whole arranged like tastefully symmetrical bouquets, every tree fitting nicely the place assigned to it as if made especially for it; small roses and eriogonums are usually found blooming on the open spaces about the groves, forming charming pleasure grounds.  Higher, the firs gradually become smaller and less perfect, many showing double summits, indicating storm stress.  Still, where good moraine soil is found, even on the rim of the lake-basin, specimens one hundred and fifty feet in height and five feet in diameter occur nearly nine thousand feet above the sea.  The saplings, I find, are mostly bent with the crushing weight of the winter snow, which at this elevation must be at least eight or ten feet deep, judging by marks on the trees; and this depth of compacted snow is heavy enough to bend and bury young trees twenty or thirty feet in height and hold them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Beyond the silver firs I find the two-leaved pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus contorta</HI>
134.sgm:, var.  <HI REND="italics">Murrayana</HI>
134.sgm: ) forms the bulk of the forest up to an elevation of ten thousand feet or more, --the highest timber-belt of the Sierra.  I saw a specimen nearly five feet in diameter growing on deep, well-watered soil at an elevation of about nine thousand feet.  The form of this species varies very much with position, exposure, soil, etc.  On streambanks, where it is closely planted, it is very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:slender; some specimens seventy-five feet high do not exceed five inches in diameter at the ground, but the ordinary form, as far as I have seen, is well proportioned.  The average diameter when full grown at this elevation is about twelve or fourteen inches, height forty or fifty feet, the straggling branches bent up at the end, the bark thin and bedraggled with amber-colored resin.  The pistillate flowers form little crimson rosettes a fourth of an inch in diameter on the ends of the branchlets, mostly hidden in the leaf-tassels; the staminate are about three eighths of an inch in diameter, sulphur-yellow, in showy clusters, giving a remarkably rich effect, --a brave, hardy mountaineer pine, growing cheerily on rough beds of avalanche boulders and joints of rock pavements, as well as in fertile hollows, standing up to the waist in snow every winter for centuries, facing a thousand storms and blooming every year in colors as bright as those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>A still hardier mountaineer is the Sierra juniper ( <HI REND="italics">Juniperus occidentalis</HI>
134.sgm: ), growing mostly on domes and ridges and glacier pavements.  A thickset, sturdy, picturesque highlander, seemingly content to live for more than a score of centuries on sunshine and snow; a truly wonderful fellow, dogged endurance expressed in every feature, lasting about as long as the granite he stands on.  Some are nearly as broad as high.  I saw one on the shore of the lake nearly ten feet in diameter, and many six to eight feet.  The bark, cinnamon-colored, flakes off in long ribbon-like strips with a satiny lustre.  Surely the most enduring of all tree mountaineers, it never seems to die a natural death, or even to fall after it has been killed.  If protected from accidents, it would perhaps be immortal.  I saw some that had withstood an avalanche from snowy Mt. Hoffman cheerily putting out new branches, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:as if repeating, like Grip, "Never say die."  Some were simply standing on the pavement where no fissure more than half an inch wide offered a hold for its roots.  The common height for these rock-dwellers <illus entity="a134-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JUNIPERS IN TENAYA CAN&tilde;ON</P>
134.sgm:is from ten to twenty feet; most of the old ones have broken tops, and are mere stumps, with a few tufted branches, forming picturesque brown pillars on bare pavements, with plenty of elbow-room and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The lake was named for one of the chiefs of the Yosemite tribe.  Old Tenaya is said to have been a good Indian to his tribe.  When a company of soldiers followed his band into Yosemite to punish them for cattle-stealing and other crimes, they fled to this lake by a trail that leads out of the upper end of the valley, early in the spring, while the snow was still deep; but being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:pursued, they lost heart and surrendered.  A fine monument the old man has in this bright lake, and likely to last a long time, though lakes die as well as Indians, being gradually filled with detritus carried in by the feeding streams, and to some extent also by snow avalanches and rain and wind.  A considerable portion of the Tenaya basin is already changed into a forested flat and meadow at the upper end, where the main tributary enters from Cathedral Peak.  Two other tributaries come from the Hoffman Range.  The outlet flows westward through Tenaya Can&tilde;on to join the Merced River in Yosemite.  Scarce a handful of loose soil is to be seen on the north shore.  All is bare, shining granite, suggesting the Indian name of the lake, Pywiack, meaning shining rock.  The basin seems to have been slowly excavated by the ancient glaciers, a marvelous work requiring countless thousands of years.  On the south side an imposing mountain rises from the water's edge to a height <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--No cloud mountains, only curly cirrus wisps scarce perceptible, and the want of thunder to strike the noon hour seems strange, as if the Sierra clock had stopped.  Have been studying the <HI REND="italics">magnifica</HI>
134.sgm: fir, --measured one near two hundred and forty feet high, the tallest I have yet seen.  This species is the most symmetrical of all conifers, but though gigantic in size it seldom lives more than four or five hundred years.  Most of the trees die from the attacks of a fungus at the age of two or three centuries.  This dry-rot fungus perhaps enters the trunk by way of the stumps of limbs broken off by the snow that loads the broad palmate branches.  The younger specimens are marvels of symmetry, straight and erect as a plumb-line, their branches in regular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>After the excursion to Mt. Hoffman I had seen a complete cross-section of the Sierra forest, and I find that <HI REND="italics">Abies magnifica</HI>
134.sgm: is the most symmetrical tree of all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:noble coniferous company.  The cones are grand affairs, superb in form, size, and color, cylindrical, stand erect on the upper branches like casks, and are from five to eight inches in length by three or four in diameter, greenish gray, and covered with fine down which has a silvery lustre in the sunshine, and their brilliance is augmented by beads of transparent balsam which seems to have been poured over each cone, bringing to mind the old ceremonies of anointing with oil.  If possible, the inside of the cone is more beautiful than the outside; the scales, bracts, and seed wings are tinted with the loveliest rosy purple with a bright lustrous iridescence; the seeds, three fourths of an inch long, are dark brown.  When the cones are ripe the scales and bracts fall off, setting the seeds free to fly to their predestined places, while the dead spikelike axes are left on the branches for many years to mark the positions of the vanished cones, excepting those cut off when green <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Bright, cool, exhilarating.  Clouds about .05.  Another glorious day of rambling, sketching, and universal enjoyment.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Clouds .20, but the regular shower did not reach us, though thunder was heard a few miles off striking the noon hour.  Ants, flies, and mosquitoes seem to enjoy this fine climate.  A few house flies have discovered our camp.  The Sierra mosquitoes are courageous and of good size, some of them measuring nearly an inch from tip of sting to tip of folded wings.  Though less abundant than in most wildernesses, they occasionally make quite a hum and stir, and pay but little attention to time or place.  They sting anywhere, any time of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:day, wherever they can find anything worth while, until they are themselves stung by frost.  The large jet-black ants are only ticklish and troublesome when one is lying down under the trees.  Noticed a borer drilling a silver fir.  Ovipositor about an inch and a half in length, polished and straight like a needle.  When not in use, it is folded back in a sheath, which extends straight behind like the legs of a crane in flying.  This drilling, I suppose, is to save nest building, and the after care of feeding the young.  Who would guess that in the brain of a fly so much knowledge could find lodgment?  How do they know that their eggs will hatch in such holes, or, after they hatch, that the soft, helpless grubs will find the right sort of nourishment in silver fir sap?  This domestic arrangement calls to mind the curious family of gallflies.  Each species seems to know what kind of plant will respond to the irritation or stimulus of the puncture it makes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:and the eggs it lays, in forming a growth that not only answers for a nest and home but also provides food for the young.  Probably these gallflies make mistakes at times, like anybody else; but when they do, there is simply a failure of that particular brood, while enough to perpetuate the species do find the proper plants and nourishment.  Many mistakes of this kind might be made without being discovered by us.  Once a pair of wrens made the mistake of building a nest in the sleeve of a workman's coat, which was called for at sundown, much to the consternation and discomfiture of the birds.  Still the marvel remains that any of the children of such small people as gnats and mosquitoes should escape their own and their parents' mistakes, as well as the vicissitudes of the weather and hosts of enemies, and come forth in full vigor and perfection to enjoy the sunny world.  When we think of the small creatures that are visible, we are led to think of many that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">July</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Another glorious day, the air as delicious to the lungs as nectar to the tongue; indeed the body seems one palate, and tingles equally throughout.  Cloudiness about .05, but our ordinary shower has not yet reached us, though I hear thunder in the distance.</P>
134.sgm:<P>The cheery little chipmunk, so common about Brown's Flat, is common here also, and perhaps other species.  In their light, airy habits they recall the familiar species of the Eastern States, which we admired in the oak openings of Wisconsin as they skimmed along the zigzag rail fences.  These Sierra chipmunks are more arboreal and squirrel-like.  I first noticed them on the lower edge of the coniferous belt, where the Sabine and yellow pines meet, --exceedingly interesting little fellows, full of odd, funny ways, and without being true squirrels, have most of their accomplishments <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:without their aggressive quarrelsomeness.  I never weary watching them as they frisk about in the bushes gathering seeds and berries, like song sparrows poising daintily on slender twigs, and making even less stir than most birds of the same size.  Few of the Sierra animals interest me more; they are so able, gentle, confiding, and beautiful, they take one's heart, and get themselves adopted as darlings.  Though weighing hardly more than field mice, they are laborious collectors of seeds, nuts, and cones, and are therefore well fed, but never in the least swollen with fat or lazily full.  On the contrary, of their frisky, birdlike liveliness there is no end.  They have a great variety of notes corresponding with their movements, some sweet and liquid like water dripping with tinkling sounds into pools.  They seem dearly to love teasing a dog, coming frequently almost within reach, then frisking away with lively chipping, like sparrows, beating time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The woodchuck ( <HI REND="italics">Arctomys monax</HI>
134.sgm: ) of the bleak mountain-tops is a very different sort of mountaineer--the most bovine of rodents, a heavy eater, fat, aldermanic in bulk and fairly bloated, in his high pastures, like a cow in a clover field.  One woodchuck would outweigh a hundred chipmunks, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--A grand cloudland and five-minute shower, refreshing the blessed wilderness, already so fragrant and fresh, steeping the black meadow mold and dead leaves like tea.</P>
134.sgm:<P>The waycup, or flicker, so familiar to every boy in the old Middle West States, is one of the most common of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The mountain quail ( <HI REND="italics">Oreortyx ricta</HI>
134.sgm: ) I often meet in my walks, --a small brown partridge with a very long, slender, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:ornamental crest worn jauntily like a feather in a boy's cap, giving it a very marked appearance.  This species is considerably larger than the valley quail, so common on the hot foothills.  They seldom alight in trees, but love to wander in flocks of from five or six to twenty through the ceanothus and manzanita thickets and over open, dry meadows and rocks of the ridges where the forest is less dense or wanting, uttering a low clucking sound to enable them to keep together.  When disturbed they rise with a strong birr of wing-beats, and scatter as if exploded to a distance of a quarter of a mile or so.  After the danger is past they call one another together with a louder piping note, --Nature's beautiful mountain chickens.  I have not yet found their nests.  The young of this season are already hatched and away, --new broods of happy wanderers half as large as their parents.  I wonder how they live through the long winters, when the ground is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The blue, or dusky, grouse is also common here.  They like the deepest and closest fir woods, and when disturbed, burst from the branches of the trees with a strong, loud whir of wing-beats, and vanish in a wavering, silent slide, without moving a feather, --a stout, beautiful bird about the size of the prairie chicken of the old west, spending most of the time in the trees, excepting the breeding season, when it keeps to the ground.  The young are now able to fly.  When scattered by man or dog, they keep still until the danger is supposed to be past, then the mother calls them together.  The chicks can hear the call a distance of several hundred yards, though it is not loud.  Should the young be unable to fly, the mother feigns desperate lameness or death to draw one away, throwing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:herself at one's feet within two or three yards, rolling over on her back, kicking and gasping, so as to deceive man or beast.  They are said to stay all the year in the woods hereabouts, taking shelter in dense tufted branches of fir and yellow pine during snow-storms, and feeding on the young buds of these trees.  Their legs are feathered down to their toes, and I have never heard of their suffering in any sort of weather.  Able to live on pine and fir buds, they are forever independent in the matter of food, which troubles so many of us and controls our movements.  Gladly, if I could, I would live forever on pine buds, however full of turpentine and pitch, for the sake of this grand independence. just to think of our sufferings last month merely for grist-mill flour.  Man seems to have more difficulty in gaining food than any other of the Lord's creatures.  For many in towns it is a consuming, life-long struggle; for others, the danger of coming to want is so great, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>On Mt. Hoffman I saw a curious dove-colored bird that seemed half woodpecker, half magpie or crow.  It screams something like a crow, but flies like a woodpecker, and has a long, straight bill, with which I saw it opening the cones of the mountain and white-barked pines.  It seems to keep to the heights, though no doubt it comes down for shelter during winter, if not for food.  So far as food is concerned, these bird-mountaineers, I guess, can glean nuts enough, even in winter, from the different kinds of conifers; for always there are a few that have been unable to fly out of the cones and remain for hungry winter gleaners.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Clouds and showers, about the same as yesterday.  Sketching all day on the North Dome until four or five o'clock <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:in the afternoon, when, as I was busily employed thinking only of the glorious Yosemite landscape, trying to draw every tree and every line and feature of the rocks, I was suddenly, and without warning, possessed with the notion that my friend, Professor J. D. Butler, of the State University of Wisconsin, was below me in the valley, and I jumped up full of the idea of meeting him, with almost as much startling excitement as if he had suddenly touched me to make me look up.  Leaving my work without the slightest deliberation, I ran down the western slope of the Dome and along the brink of the valley wall, looking for a way to the bottom, until I came to a side can&tilde;on, which, judging by its apparently continuous growth of trees and bushes, I thought might afford a practical way into the valley, and immediately began to make the descent, late as it was, as if drawn irresistibly.  But after a little, common sense stopped me and explained that it would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:long after dark ere I could possibly reach the hotel, that the visitors would be asleep, that nobody would know me, that I had no money in my pockets, and moreover was without a coat.  I therefore compelled myself to stop, and finally succeeded in reasoning myself out of the notion of seeking my friend in the dark, whose presence I only felt in a strange, telepathic way.  I succeeded in dragging myself back through the woods to camp, never for a moment wavering, however, in my determination to go down to him next morning.  This I think is the most unexplainable notion that ever struck me.  Had some one whispered in my ear while I sat on the Dome, where I had spent so many days, that Professor Butler was in the valley, I could not have been more surprised and startled.  When I was leaving the university he said, "Now, John, I want to hold you in sight and watch your career.  Promise to write me at least once a year."  I received a letter from him in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Had a wonderful day.  Found Professor Butler as the compass-needle finds the pole.  So last evening's telepathy, transcendental revelation, or whatever else it may be called, was true; for, strange to say, he had just entered the valley by way of the Coulterville Trail and was coming up the valley past El Capitan when his presence struck me.  Had he then looked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>This morning, when I thought of having to appear among tourists at a hotel, I was troubled because I had no suitable clothes, and at best am desperately bashful and shy.  I was determined to go, however, to see my old friend after two years among strangers; got on a clean pair of overalls, a cashmere shirt, and a sort of jacket, --the best my camp wardrobe afforded, --tied my note-book on my belt, and strode away on my strange journey, followed by Carlo.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>In front of the gloomy hotel I found a tourist party adjusting their fishing tackle.  They all stared at me in silent wonderment, as if I had been seen dropping down through the trees from the clouds, mostly, I suppose, on account of my strange garb.  Inquiring for the office, I was told it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:locked, and that the landlord was away, but I might find the landlady, Mrs. Hutchings, in the parlor.  I entered in a sad state of embarrassment, and after I had waited in the big, empty room and knocked at several doors the landlady at length appeared, and in reply to my question said she rather thought Professor Butler <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
134.sgm: in the valley, but to make sure, she would bring the register from the office.  Among the names of the last arrivals I soon discovered the Professor's familiar handwriting, at the sight of which bashfulness vanished; and having learned that his party had gone up the valley, --probably to the Vernal and Nevada Falls, --I pushed on in glad pursuit, my heart now sure of its prey.  In less than an hour I reached the head of the Nevada Can&tilde;on at the Vernal Fall, and just outside of the spray discovered a distinguished-looking gentleman, who, like everybody else I have seen to-day, regarded me curiously as I approached.  when I made bold to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:inquire if he knew where Professor Butler was, he seemed yet more curious to know what could possibly have happened that required a messenger for the Professor, and instead of answering my question he asked with military sharpness, "Who wants him?"  "I want him," I replied with equal sharpness.  "Why?  Do <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
134.sgm: know him?"  "Yes," I said.  "Do <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
134.sgm: know him?"  Astonished that any one in the mountains could possibly know Professor Butler and find him as soon as he had reached the valley, he came down to meet the strange mountaineer on equal terms, and courteously replied, "Yes, I know Professor Butler very well.  I am General Alvord, and we were fellow students in Rutland, Vermont, long ago, when we were both young."  "But where is he now?" I persisted, cutting short his story.  "He has gone beyond the falls with a companion, to try to climb that big rock, the top of which you see from here."  His guide now volunteered the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:information that it was the Liberty Cap Professor Butler and his companion had gone to climb, and that if I waited at the head of the fall I should be sure to find them on their way down.  I therefore climbed the ladders alongside the Vernal Fall, and was pushing forward, determined to go to the top of Liberty Cap rock in my hurry, rather than wait, if I should not meet my friend sooner.  So heart-hungry at times may one be to see a friend in the flesh, however happily full and care-free one's life may be.  I had gone but a short distance, however, above the brow of the Vernal Fall when I caught sight of him in the brush and rocks, half erect, groping his way, his sleeves rolled up, vest open, hat in his hand, evidently very hot and tired.  When he saw me coming he sat down on a boulder to wipe the perspiration from his brow and neck, and taking me for one of the valley guides, he inquired the way to the fall ladders.  I pointed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:out the path marked with little piles of stones, on seeing which he called his companion, saying that the way was found; but he did not yet recognize me.  Then I stood directly in front of him, looked him in the face, and held out my hand.  He thought I was offering to assist him in rising.  "Never mind," he said.  Then I said, "Professor Butler, don't you know me?"  "I think not," he replied; but catching my eye, sudden recognition followed, and astonishment that I should have found him just when he was lost in the brush and did not know that I was within hundreds of miles of him.  "John Muir, John Muir, where have you come from?"  Then I told him the story of my feeling his presence when he entered the valley last evening, when he was four or five miles distant, as I sat sketching on the North Dome.  This, of course, only made him wonder the more.  Below the foot of the Vernal Fall the guide was waiting with his saddle-horse, and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>It was late ere we reached the hotel, and General Alvord was waiting the Professor's arrival for dinner.  When I was introduced he seemed yet more astonished than the Professor at my descent from cloudland and going straight to my friend without knowing in any ordinary way that he was even in California.  They had come on direct from the East, had not yet visited any of their friends in the state, and considered themselves undiscoverable.  As we sat at dinner, the General leaned back in his chair, and looking down the table, thus introduced me to the dozen guests or so, including the staring fisherman mentioned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Had a long conversation, after dinner, over Madison days.  The Professor wants me to promise to go with him, sometime, on a camping trip in the Hawaiian Islands, while I tried to get him to go back with me to camp in the high Sierra.  But he says, "Not now."  He must not leave the General; and I was surprised to learn they are to leave the valley to-morrow or next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--It seemed strange to sleep in a paltry hotel chamber after the spacious magnificence and luxury of the starry sky and silver fir grove.  Bade farewell to my friend and the General.  The old soldier was very kind, and an interesting talker.  He told me long stories of the Florida Seminole war, in which he took part, and invited me to visit him in Omaha.  Calling Carlo, I scrambled home through the Indian Can&tilde;on gate, rejoicing, pitying the poor Professor and General, bound by clocks, almanacs, orders, duties, etc., and compelled to dwell with lowland care and dust and din, where Nature is covered and her voice smothered, while the poor,  insignificant wanderer enjoys the freedom and glory of God's wilderness.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Apart from the human interest of my visit to-day, I greatly enjoyed Yosemite, which I had visited only once before, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:having spent eight days last spring in rambling amid its rocks and waters.  Wherever we go in the mountains, or indeed in any of God's wild fields, we find more than we seek.  Descending four thousand feet in a few hours, we enter a new world, --climate, plants, sounds, inhabitants, and scenery all new or changed.  Near camp the gold-cup oak forms sheets of chaparral, on top of which we may make our beds.  Going down the Indian Can&tilde;on we observe this little bush changing by regular gradations to a large bush, to a small tree, and then larger, until on the rocky taluses near the bottom of the valley we find it developed into a broad, wide-spreading, gnarled, picturesque tree from four to eight feet in diameter, and forty or fifty feet high.  Innumerable are the forms of water displayed.  Every gliding reach, cascade, and fall has characters of its own.  Had a good view of the Vernal and Nevada, two of the main falls of the valley, less than a mile apart, and offering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:striking differences in voice, form, color, etc.  The Vernal, four hundred feet high and about seventy-five or eighty feet wide, drops smoothly over a round-lipped precipice and forms a superb apron of embroidery, green and white, slightly folded and fluted, maintaining this form nearly to the bottom, where it is suddenly veiled in quick-flying billows of spray and mist, in which the afternoon sunbeams play with ravishing beauty of rainbow colors.  The Nevada is white from its first appearance as it leaps out into the freedom of the air.  At the head it presents a twisted appearance, by an overfolding of the current from striking on the side of its channel just before the first free outbounding leap is made.  About two thirds of the way down, the hurrying throng of comet-shaped masses glance on an inclined part of the face of the precipice and are beaten into yet whiter foam, greatly expanded, and sent bounding outward, making an indescribably glorious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>From beneath heavy throbbing blasts of spray the broken river is seen emerging in ragged boulder-chafed strips.  These are speedily gathered into a roaring torrent, showing that the young river is still gloriously alive.  On it goes, shouting, roaring, exulting in its strength, passes through a gorge with sublime display of energy, then suddenly expands on a gently inclined pavement, down which it rushes in thin sheets and folds of lace-work into a quiet pool, --"Emerald Pool," as it is called, --a stopping-place, a period separating two grand sentences.  Resting here long enough to part with its foam-bells and gray <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Before parting with Professor Butler he gave me a book, and I gave him one of my pencil sketches for his little son Henry, who is a favorite of mine.  He used to make many visits to my room when I was a student.  Never shall I forget his patriotic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>It seems strange that visitors to Yosemite should be so little influenced by its novel grandeur, as if their eyes were bandaged and their ears stopped.  Most of those I saw yesterday were looking down as if wholly unconscious of anything going on about them, while the sublime rocks were trembling with the tones of the mighty chanting congregation of waters gathered from all the mountains round about, making music that might draw angels out of heaven.  Yet respectable-looking, even wise-looking people were fixing bits of worms on bent pieces of wire to catch trout.  Sport they called it.  Should church-goers try to pass the time fishing in baptismal fonts while dull sermons were being preached, the so-called sport might not be so bad; but to play in the Yosemite temple, seeking pleasure in the pain of fishes struggling for their lives, while God himself is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Now I'm back at the camp-fire, and cannot help thinking about my recognition of my friend's presence in the valley while he was four or five miles away, and while I had no means of knowing that he was not thousands of miles away.  It seems supernatural, but only because it is not understood.  Anyhow, it seems silly to make so much of it, while the natural and common is more truly marvelous and mysterious than the so-called supernatural.  Indeed most of the miracles we hear of are infinitely less wonderful than the commonest of natural phenomena, when fairly seen.  Perhaps the invisible rays that struck me while I sat at work on the Dome are something like those which attract and repel people at first sight, concerning which so much nonsense has been written.  The worst apparent effect of these mysterious odd things is blindness to all that is divinely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--We were awakened this morning before daybreak by the furious barking of Carlo and Jack and the sound of stampeding sheep.  Billy fled from his punk bed to the fire, and refused to stir into the darkness to try to gather the scattered flock, or ascertain the nature of the disturbance.  It was a bear attack, as we afterward learned, and I suppose little was gained by attempting to do anything before daylight.  Nevertheless, being anxious to know what was up, Carlo and I groped our way through the woods, guided by the rustling sound made by fragments of the flock, not fearing the bear, for I knew that the runaways would go from their enemy as far as possible and Carlo's nose was also to be depended upon.  About half a mile <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:east of the corral we overtook twenty or thirty of the flock and succeeded in driving them back; then turning to the westward, we traced another band of fugitives and got them back to the flock.  After day-break I discovered the remains of a sheep carcass, still warm, showing that Bruin must have been enjoying his early mutton breakfast while I was seeking the runaways.  He had eaten about half of it.  Six dead sheep lay in the corral, evidently smothered by the crowding and piling up of the flock against the side of the corral wall when the bear entered.  Making a wide circuit of the camp, Carlo and I discovered a third band of fugitives and drove them back to camp.  We also discovered another dead sheep half eaten, showing there had been two of the shaggy free-booters at this early breakfast.  They were easily traced.  They had each caught a sheep, jumped over the corral fence with them, carrying them as a cat carries a mouse, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>When I asked Billy why he made his bed against the corral in rotten wood, when so many better places offered, he replied that he "wished to be as near the sheep as possible in case bears should attack them."  Now that the bears have come, he has moved his bed to the far side of the camp, and seems afraid that he may be mistaken for a sheep.</P>
134.sgm:<P>This has been mostly a sheep day, and of course studies have been interrupted.  Nevertheless, the walk through the gloom of the woods before the dawn was worth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Enjoyed the grand illumination of the camp grove, last night, from the fire we made to frighten the bears, --compensation for loss of sleep and sheep.  The noble pillars of verdure, vividly aglow, seemed to shoot into the sky like the flames that lighted them.  Nevertheless, one of the bears paid us another visit, as if more attracted than repelled by the fire, climbed into the corral, killed a sheep and made off with it without being seen, while still another was lost by trampling and suffocation against the side of the corral.  Now that our mutton has been tasted, I suppose it will be difficult to put a stop to the ravages of these freebooters.</P>
134.sgm:<P>The Don arrived to-day from the lowlands with provisions and a letter.  On <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Early this morning bade good-by to the bears and blessed silver fir camp, and moved slowly eastward along the Mono Trail.  At sundown camped for the night on one of the many small flowery meadows so greatly enjoyed on my excursion to Lake Tenaya.  The dusty, noisy flock seems outrageously foreign and out of place in these nature gardens, more so than bears among sheep.  The harm they do goes to the heart, but glorious hope lifts above all the dust and din and bids me look forward to a good time coming, when money enough will be earned to enable me to go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Camp at the west end of Lake Tenaya.  Arriving early, I took a walk on the glacier-polished pavements along the north shore, and climbed the magnificent mountain rock at the east end of the lake, now shining in the late afternoon light.  Almost every yard of its surface shows the scoring and polishing action of a great glacier that enveloped it and swept heavily over its summit, though it is about two thousand feet high above the lake and ten thousand above sea-level.  This majestic, ancient ice-flood came from the eastward, as the scoring and crushing of the surface shows.  Even below the waters of the lake <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:the rock in some places is still grooved and polished; the lapping of the waves and their disintegrating action have not as yet obliterated even the superficial marks of glaciation.  In climbing the steepest polished places I had to take off shoes and <illus entity="a134-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW OF TENAYA LAKE SHOWING CATHEDRAL PEAK</P>
134.sgm:stockings.  A fine region this for study of glacial action in mountain-making.  I found many charming plants: arctic daisies, phlox, white spir&aelig;a, bryanthus, and rock-ferns, --pell&aelig;a, cheilanthes, allosorus, --fringing weathered seams all the way up to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Made sketch of the lake, and sauntered back to camp, my iron-shod shoes clanking on the pavements disturbing the chipmunks and birds.  After dark went out to the shore, --not a breath of air astir, the lake a perfect mirror reflecting the sky and mountains with their stars and trees and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--I went ahead of the flock, and crossed over the divide between the <illus entity="a134-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ONE OF THE TRIBUTARY FOUNTAINS OF THE TUOLUMNE CAN&tilde;ON WATERS, ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE HOFFMAN RANGE</P>
134.sgm:Merced and Tuolumne basins.  The gap between the east end of the Hoffman spur and the mass of mountain rocks about Cathedral Peak, though roughened by ridges and waving folds, seems to be one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>From the top of the divide, and also from the big Tuolumne Meadows, the wonderful mountain called Cathedral Peak is in sight.  From every point of view it shows marked individuality.  It is a majestic temple of one stone, hewn from the living rock, and adorned with spires and pinnacles in regular cathedral style.  The dwarf pines on the roof look like mosses.  I hope some time to climb to it to say my prayers and hear the stone sermons.</P>
134.sgm:<P>The big Tuolumne Meadows are flowery lawns, lying along the south fork of the Tuolumne River at a height of about eighty-five hundred to nine thousand feet above the sea, partially separated by forests and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Tuolumne Meadow from Cathedral Peak</HI>
134.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:bars of glaciated granite.  Here the mountains seem to have been cleared away or set back, so that wide-open views may be had in every direction.  The upper end of the series lies at the base of Mt. Lyell, the lower below the east end of the Hoffman Range, so the length must be about ten or twelve miles.  They vary in width from a quarter of a mile to perhaps three quarters, and a good many branch meadows put out along the banks of the tributary streams.  This is the most spacious and delightful high pleasure-ground I have yet seen.  The air is keen and bracing, yet warm during the day; and though lying high in the sky, the surrounding mountains are so much higher, one feels protected as if in a grand hall.  Mts. Dana and Gibbs, massive red mountains, perhaps thirteen thousand feet high or more, bound the view on the east, the Cathedral and Unicorn Peaks, with many nameless peaks, on the south, the Hoffman Range on the west, and a number of peaks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>On the return trip I met the flock about three miles east of Lake Tenaya.  Here we camped for the night near a small lake lying on top of the divide in a clump of the two-leaved pine.  We are now about nine thousand feet above the sea.  Small lakes abound in all sorts of situations, --on ridges, along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:mountain sides, and in piles of moraine boulders, most of them mere pools.  Only in those can&tilde;ons of the larger streams at the foot of declivities, where the down thrust of the glaciers was heaviest, do we find lakes of considerable size and depth.  How grateful a task it would be to trace them all and study them!  How pure their waters are, clear as crystal in polished stone basins!  None of them, so far as I have seen, have fishes, I suppose on account of falls making them inaccessible.  Yet one would think their eggs might get into these lakes by some chance or other; on ducks' feet, for example, or in their mouths, or in their crops, as some plant seeds are distributed.  Nature has so many ways of doing such things.  How did the frogs, found in all the bogs and pools and lakes, however high, manage to get up these mountains?  Surely not by jumping.  Such excursions through miles of dry brush and boulders would be very hard on frogs.  Perhaps their stringy gelatinous spawn is occasionally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Another of those charming exhilarating days that makes the blood dance and excites nerve currents that render one unweariable and well-nigh immortal.  Had another view of the broad ice-ploughed divide, and gazed again and again at the Sierra temple and the great red mountains east of the meadows.</P>
134.sgm:<P>We are camped near the Soda Springs on the north side of the river.  A hard time we had getting the sheep across.  They were driven into a horseshoe bend and fairly crowded off the bank.  They seemed willing to suffer death rather than risk getting wet, though they swim well enough when they have to.  Why sheep should be so unreasonably afraid of water, I don't know, but they do fear it as soon as they are born and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:perhaps before.  I once saw a lamb only a few hours old approach a shallow stream about two feet wide and an inch deep, after it had walked only about a hundred yards on its life journey.  All the flock to which it belonged had crossed this inch-deep stream, and as the mother and her lamb were the last to cross, I had a good opportunity to observe them.  As soon as the flock was out of the way, the anxious mother crossed over and called the youngster.  It walked cautiously to the brink, gazed at the water, bleated piteously, and refused to venture.  The patient mother went back to it again and again to encourage it, but long without avail.  Like the pilgrim on Jordan's stormy bank it feared to launch away.  At length gathering its trembling inexperienced legs for the mighty effort, throwing up its head as if it knew all about drowning, and was anxious to keep its nose above water, it made the tremendous leap, and landed in the middle of the inch-deep stream.  It seemed astonished to find that, instead of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Fine shining weather, with a ten minutes' noon thunder-storm and rain.  Rambling all day getting acquainted with the region north of the river.  Found a small lake and many charming glacier meadows embosomed in an extensive forest of the two-leaved pine.  The forest is growing on broad, almost continuous deposits of moraine material, is remarkably even in its growth, and the trees are much closer together than in any of the fir or pine woods farther down the range.  The evenness of the growth would seem to indicate that the trees are all of the same age or nearly so.  This regularity has probably been in great part the result of fire.  I saw several large patches and strips of dead <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>After a long ramble through the dense encumbered woods I emerged upon a smooth meadow full of sunshine like a lake of light, about a mile and a half long, a quarter to half a mile wide, and bounded by tall arrowy pines.  The sod, like that of all the glacier meadows hereabouts, is made of silky agrostis and calamagrostis chiefly; their panicles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:of purple flowers and purple stems, exceedingly light and airy, seem to float above the green plush of leaves like a thin misty cloud, while the sod is brightened by several species of gentian, potentilla, ivesia, orthocarpus, <illus entity="a134-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GLACIER MEADOW, ON THE HEADWATERS OF THE TUOLUMNE, 9500 FEET ABOVE THE SEA</P>
134.sgm:and their corresponding bees and butterflies.  All the glacier meadows are beautiful, but few are so perfect as this one.  Compared with it the most carefully leveled, licked, snipped artificial lawns of pleasure-grounds are coarse things.  I should like to live here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>From meadow to meadow, every one beautiful beyond telling, and from lake to lake through groves and belts of arrowy trees, I held my way northward toward Mt. Conness, finding telling beauty everywhere, while the encompassing mountains were calling "Come."  Hope I may climb them all.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The sky-scenery has changed but little so far with the change in elevation.  Clouds about .05.  Glorious pearly cumulitinted with purple of ineffable fineness of tone.  Moved camp to the side of the glacier meadow mentioned above.  To let sheep trample so divinely fine a place seems barbarous.  Fortunately they prefer the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The shepherd and the Don cannot agree about methods of herding.  Billy sets his dog Jack on the sheep far too often, so the Don thinks; and after some dispute today, in which the shepherd loudly claimed the right to dog the sheep as often as he pleased, he started for the plains.  Now I suppose the care of the sheep will fall on me, though Mr. Delaney promises to do the herding himself for a while, then return to the lowlands and bring another shepherd, so as to leave me free to rove as I like.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Had another rich ramble.  Pushed northward beyond the forests to the head of the general basin, where traces of glacial action are strikingly clear and interesting.  The recesses among the peaks look like quarries, so raw and fresh are the moraine chips and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Soon after my return to camp we received a visit from an Indian, probably one of the hunters whose camp I had discovered.  He came from Mono, he said, with others of his tribe, to hunt deer.  One that he had killed a short distance from here he was carrying on his back, its legs tied together in an ornamental bunch on his forehead.  Throwing down his burden, he gazed stolidly for a few minutes in silent Indian fashion, then cut off eight or ten pounds of venison for us, and begged a "lill" (little) of everything he saw or could think of, --flour, bread, sugar, tobacco, whiskey, needles, etc.  We gave a fair price for the meat in flour and sugar and added a few needles.  A strangely dirty and irregular life these dark-eyed, dark-haired, half-happy savages lead in this clean wilderness, --starvation and abundance, deathlike calm, indolence, and admirable, indefatigable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Day all sunshine, dawn and evening purple, noon gold, no clouds, air motionless.  Mr. Delaney arrived with two shepherds, one of them an Indian.  On his way up from the plains he left some provisions at the Portuguese camp on Porcupine Creek near our old Yosemite camp, and I set out this morning with one of the pack animals to fetch them.  Arrived at the Porcupine camp at noon, and might have returned to the Tuolumne late in the evening, but concluded to stay over night with the Portuguese shepherds at their pressing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>I spent the afternoon in a grand ramble along the Yosemite walls.  From the highest of the rocks called the Three Brothers, I enjoyed a magnificent view comprehending all the upper half of the floor of the valley and nearly all the rocks of the walls on both sides and at the head, with snowy peaks in the background.  Saw also the Vernal and Nevada Falls, a truly glorious picture, --rocky strength and permanence combined with beauty of plants frail and fine and evanescent; water descending in thunder, and the same water gliding through meadows and groves in gentlest beauty.  This standpoint is about eight thousand feet above the sea, or four thousand feet above the floor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Glacial action even on this lofty summit is plainly displayed.  Not only has all the lovely valley now smiling in sunshine been filled to the brim with ice, but it has been deeply overflowed.</P>
134.sgm:<P>I visited our old Yosemite camp-ground on the head of Indian Creek, and found it fairly patted and smoothed down with beartracks.  The bears had eaten all the sheep that were smothered in the corral, and some of the grand animals must have died, for Mr. Delaney, before leaving camp, put a large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>On my return after sunset to the Portuguese camp I found the shepherds greatly excited over the behavior of the bears that have learned to like mutton.  "They are getting worse and worse," they lamented.  Not willing to wait decently until after dark for their suppers, they come and kill and eat their fill in broad daylight.  The evening before my arrival, when the two shepherds were leisurely driving the flock toward camp half an hour before sunset, a hungry bear came out of the chaparral within a few yards of them and shuffled deliberately toward the flock.  "Portuguese Joe," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>At another of their camps in this neighborhood, a bear with two cubs attacked the flock before sunset, just as they were approaching the corral.  Joe promptly climbed a tree out of danger, while Antone, rebuking his companion for cowardice in abandoning his charge, said that he was not going to let bears "eat up his sheeps" in daylight, and rushed towards the bears, shouting and setting his dog on them.  The frightened cubs climbed a tree, but the mother ran to meet the shepherd and seemed anxious to fight.  Antone stood astonished for a moment, eyeing the oncoming bear, then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:turned and fled, closely pursued.  Unable to reach a suitable tree for climbing, he ran to the camp and scrambled up to the roof of the little cabin; the bear followed, but did not climb to the roof, --only stood glaring up at him for a few minutes, threatening him and holding him in mortal terror, then went to her cubs, called them down, went to the flock, caught a sheep for supper, and vanished in the brush.  As soon as the bear left the cabin the trembling Antone begged Joe to show him a good safe tree, up which he climbed like a sailor climbing a mast, and remained as long as he could hold on, the tree being almost branchless.  After these disastrous experiences the two shepherds chopped and gathered large piles of dry wood and made a ring of fire around the corral every night, while one with a gun kept watch from a comfortable stage built on a neighboring pine that commanded a view of the corral.  This evening the show made by the circle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Up to the time I went to bed last night all was quiet, though we expected the shaggy freebooters every minute.  They did not come till near midnight, when a pair walked boldly to the corral between two of the great fires, climbed in, killed two sheep and smothered ten, while the frightened watcher in the tree did not fire a single shot, saying that he was afraid he might kill some of the sheep, for the bears got into the corral before he got a good clear view of them.  I told the shepherds they should at once move the flock to another camp.  "Oh, no use, no use," they lamented; "where we go, the bears go too.  See my poor dead sheeps, --soon all dead.  No use try another camp.  We go down to the plains."  And as I afterwards learned, they were driven out of the mountains a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>It seems strange that bears, so fond of all sorts of flesh, running the risks of guns and fires and poison, should never attack men except in defense of their young.  How easily and safely a bear could pick us up as we lie asleep!  Only wolves and tigers seem to have learned to hunt man for food, and perhaps sharks and crocodiles.  Mosquitoes and other insects would, I suppose, devour a helpless man in some parts of the world, and so might lions, leopards, wolves, hyenas, and panthers at times if pressed by hunger, --but under ordinary circumstances, perhaps, only the tiger among land animals may be said to be a man-eater, --unless we add man himself.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Clouds as usual about .05.  Another glorious Sierra day, warm, crisp, fragrant, and clear.  Many of the flowering plants have gone to seed, but many others are unfolding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>On the way back to our Tuolumne camp, I enjoyed the scenery if possible more than when it first came to view.  Every feature already seems familiar as if I had lived here always.  I never weary gazing at the wonderful Cathedral.  It has more individual character than any other rock or mountain I ever saw, excepting perhaps the Yosemite South Dome.  The forests, too, seem kindly familiar, and the lakes and meadows and glad singing streams.  I should like to dwell with them forever.  Here with bread and water I should be content.  Even if not allowed to roam and climb, tethered to a stake or tree in some meadow or grove, even then I should be content forever.  Bathed in such beauty, watching the expressions ever varying on the faces of the mountains, watching the stars, which here have a glory that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Have just returned from a fine wild excursion across the range to Mono Lake, by way of the Mono or Bloody Can&tilde;on Pass.  Mr. Delaney has been good to me all summer, lending a helping, sympathizing hand at every opportunity, as if my wild <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:notions and rambles and studies were his own.  He is one of those remarkable California men who have been overflowed and denuded and remodeled by the excitements of the gold fields, like the Sierra landscapes by grinding ice, bringing the harder bosses and ridges of character into relief, --a tall, lean, big-boned, big-hearted Irishman, educated for a priest in Maynooth College, --lots of good in him, shining out now and then in this mountain light.  Recognizing my love of wild places, he told me one evening that I ought to go through Bloody Can&tilde;on, for he was sure I should find it wild enough.  He had not been there himself, he said, but had heard many of his mining friends speak of it as the wildest of all the Sierra passes.  Of course I was glad to go.  It lies just to the east of our camp and swoops down from the summit of the range to the edge of the Mono desert, making a descent of about four thousand feet in a distance of about four miles.  It was known and traveled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Early in the morning I tied my note-book and some bread to my belt, and strode away full of eager hope, feeling that I was going to have a glorious revel.  The glacier meadows that lay along my way served to soothe my morning speed, for the sod was full of blue gentians and daisies, kalmia and dwarf vaccinium, calling for recognition as old friends, and I had to stop many times to examine the shining rocks over which the ancient glacier had passed with tremendous pressure, polishing them so well that they reflected the sunlight like glass in some places, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:while fine stri&aelig;, seen clearly through a lens, indicated the direction in which the ice had flowed.  On some of the sloping polished pavements abrupt steps occur, showing that occasionally large masses of the rock had given way before the glacial pressure, as well as small particles; moraines, too, some scattered, others regular like long curving embankments and dams, occur here and there, giving the general surface of the region a young, new-made appearance.  I watched the gradual dwarfing of the pines as I ascended, and the corresponding dwarfing of nearly all the rest of the vegetation.  On the slopes of Mammoth Mountain, to the south of the pass, I saw many gaps in the woods reaching from the upper edge of the timber-line down to the level meadows, where avalanches of snow had descended, sweeping away every tree in their paths as well as the soil they were growing in, leaving the bed-rock bare.  The trees are nearly all uprooted, but a few that had been extremely well anchored in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:clefts of the rock were broken off near the ground.  It seems strange at first sight that trees that had been allowed to grow for a century or more undisturbed should in their old age be thus swished away at a stroke.  Such avalanches can only occur under rare conditions of weather and snowfall.  No doubt on some positions of the mountain slopes the inclination and smoothness of the surface is such that avalanches must occur every winter, or even after every heavy snow-storm, and of course no trees or even bushes can grow in their channels.  I noticed a few clean-swept slopes of this kind.  The uprooted trees that had grown in the pathway of what might be called "century avalanches" were piled in windrows, and tucked snugly against the wall-trees of the gaps, heads downward, excepting a few that were carried out into the open ground of the meadows, where the heads of the avalanches had stopped.  Young pines, mostly the two-leaved and the white-barked, are already springing up in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Near the summit at the head of the pass I found a species of dwarf willow lying perfectly flat on the ground, making a nice, soft, silky gray carpet, not a single stem or branch more than three inches high; but the catkins, which are now nearly ripe, stand erect and make a close, nearly regular gray growth, being larger than all the rest of the plants.  Some of these interesting dwarfs have only one catkin, --willow bushes reduced to their lowest terms.  I found patches of dwarf vaccinium also forming smooth carpets, closely pressed to the ground or against the sides of stones, and covered with round pink flowers in lavish abundance as if they had fallen from the sky like hail.  A little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:higher, almost at the very head of the pass, I found the blue arctic daisy and purple-flowered bryanthus, the mountain's own darlings, gentle mountaineers face to face with the sky, kept safe and warm by a thousand miracles, seeming always the finer and purer the wilder and stormier their homes.  The trees, tough and resiny, seem unable to go a step farther; but up and up, far above the tree-line, these tender plants climb, cheerily spreading their gray and pink carpets right up to the very edges of the snow-banks in deep hollows and shadows.  Here, too, is the familiar robin, tripping on the flowery lawns, bravely singing the same cheery song I first heard when a boy in Wisconsin newly arrived from old Scotland.  In this fine company sauntering enchanted, taking no heed of time, I at length entered the gate of the pass, and the huge rocks began to close around me in all their mysterious impressiveness.  Just then I was startled by a lot of queer, hairy, muffled creatures coming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:shuffling, shambling, wallowing toward me as if they had no bones in their bodies.  Had I discovered them while they were yet a good way off, I should have tried to avoid them.  What a picture they made contrasted with the others I had just been admiring.  When I came up to them, I found that they were only a band of Indians from Mono on their way to Yosemite for a load of acorns.  They were wrapped in blankets made of the skins of sage-rabbits.  The dirt on some of the faces seemed almost old enough and thick enough to have a geological significance; some were strangely blurred and divided into sections by seams and wrinkles that looked like cleavage joints, and had a worn abraded look as if they had lain exposed to the weather for ages.  I tried to pass them without stopping, but they wouldn't let me; forming a dismal circle about me, I was closely besieged while they begged whiskey or tobacco, and it was hard to convince them that I hadn't any.  How glad I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>How the day passed I hardly know.  By the map I have come only about ten or twelve miles, though the sun is already low in the west, showing how long I must have lingered, observing, sketching, taking notes among the glaciated rocks and moraines and Alpine flower-beds.</P>
134.sgm:<P>At sundown the sombre crags and peaks were inspired with the ineffable beauty of the alpenglow, and a solemn, awful stillness hushed everything in the landscape.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:Then I crept into a hollow by the side of a small lake near the head of the can&tilde;on, smoothed a sheltered spot, and gathered a few pine tassels for a bed.  After the short twilight began to fade I kindled a sunny fire, made a tin cupful of tea, and lay down to watch the stars.  Soon the night-wind began to flow from the snowy peaks overhead, at first only a gentle breathing, then gaining strength, in less than an hour rumbled in massive volume something like a boisterous stream in a boulder-choked channel, roaring and moaning down the can&tilde;on as if the work it had to do was tremendously important and fateful; and mingled with these storm tones were those of the waterfalls on the north side of the can&tilde;on, now sounding distinctly, now smothered by the heavier cataracts of air, making a glorious psalm of savage wildness.  My fire squirmed and struggled as if ill at ease, for though in a sheltered nook, detached masses of icy wind often fell like icebergs on top <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The stars shone clear in the strip of sky between the huge dark cliffs; and as I lay recalling the lessons of the day, suddenly the full moon looked down over the can&tilde;on wall, her face apparently filled with eager concern, which had a startling effect, as if she had left her place in the sky and had come down to gaze on me alone, like a person entering one's bedroom.  It was hard to realize that she was in her place in the sky, and was looking abroad on half the globe, land and sea, mountains, plains, lakes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:rivers, oceans, ships, cities with their myriads of inhabitants sleeping and waking, sick and well.  No, she seemed to be just on the rim of Bloody Can&tilde;on and looking only at me.  This was indeed getting near to Nature.  I remember watching the harvest moon rising above the oak trees in Wisconsin apparently as big as a cart-wheel and not farther than half a mile distant.  With these exceptions I might say I never before had seen the moon, and this night she seemed so full of life and so near, the effect was marvelously impressive and made me forget the Indians, the great black rocks above me, and the wild uproar of the winds and waters making their way down the huge jagged gorge.  Of course I slept but little and gladly welcomed the dawn over the Mono Desert.  By the time I had made a cupful of tea the sunbeams were pouring through the can&tilde;on, and I set forth, gazing eagerly at the tremendous walls of red slates savagely hacked and scarred and apparently ready to fall in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:avalanches great enough to choke the pass and fill up the chain of lakelets.  But soon its beauties came to view, and I bounded lightly from rock to rock, admiring the polished bosses shining in the slant sunshine with glorious effect in the general roughness of moraines and avalanche taluses, even toward the head of the can&tilde;on near the highest fountains of the ice.  Here, too, are most of the lowly plant people seen yesterday on the other side of the divide now opening their beautiful eyes.  None could fail to glory in Nature's tender care for them in so wild a place.  The little ouzel is flitting from rock to rock along the rapid swirling Can&tilde;on Creek, diving for breakfast in icy pools, and merrily singing as if the huge rugged avalanche-swept gorge was the most delightful of all its mountain homes.  Besides a high fall on the north wall of the can&tilde;on, apparently coming direct from the sky, there are many narrow cascades, bright silvery ribbons zigzagging down the red cliffs, tracing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:diagonal cleavage joints of the metamorphic slates, now contracted and out of sight, now leaping from ledge to ledge in filmy sheets through which the sunbeams sift.  And on the main Can&tilde;on Creek, to which all these are tributary, is a series of small falls, cascades, and rapids extending all the way down to the foot of the can&tilde;on, interrupted only by the lakes in which the tossed and beaten waters rest.  One of the finest of the cascades is outspread on the face of a precipice, its waters separated into ribbon-like strips, and woven into a diamond-like pattern by tracing the cleavage joints of the rock, while tufts of bryanthus, grass, sedge, saxifrage form beautiful fringes.  Who could imagine beauty so fine in so savage a place?  Gardens are blooming in all sorts of nooks and hollows--at the head alpine eriogonums, erigerons, saxifrages, gentians, cowania, bush primula; in the middle region larkspur, columbine, orthocarpus, castilleia, harebell, epilobium, violets, mints, yarrow; near the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>One of the smallest of the cascades, which I name the Bower Cascade, is in the lower region of the pass, where the vegetation is snowy and luxuriant.  Wild rose and dogwood form dense masses overarching the stream, and out of this bower the creek, grown strong with many indashing tributaries, leaps forth into the light, and descends in a fluted curve thick-sown with crisp flashing spray.  At the foot of the can&tilde;on there is a lake formed in part at least by the damming of the stream by a terminal moraine.  The three other lakes in the can&tilde;on are in basins eroded from the solid rock, where the pressure of the glacier was greatest, and the most resisting portions of the basin rims are beautifully, tellingly polished.  Below Moraine Lake at the foot of the can&tilde;on there are several old lake-basins lying between the large lateral moraines which extend out into the desert.  These basins are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Looking up the can&tilde;on from the warm sunny edge of the Mono plain my morning ramble seems a dream, so great is the change in the vegetation and climate.  The lilies on the bank of Moraine Lake are higher than my head, and the sunshine is hot enough for palms.  Yet the snow round the arctic gardens at the summit of the pass is plainly visible, only about four miles away, and between lie specimen zones of all the principal climates of the globe.  In little more than an hour one may swoop down from winter to summer, from an arctic to a torrid region, through as great changes of climate as one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The Indians I had met near the head of the can&tilde;on had camped at the foot of it the night before they made the ascent, and I found their fire still smoking on the side of a small tributary stream near Moraine Lake; and on the edge of what is called the Mono Desert, four or five miles from the lake, I came to a patch of elymus, or wild rye, growing in magnificent waving clumps six or eight feet high, bearing heads six to eight inches long.  The crop was ripe, and Indian women were gathering the grain in baskets by bending down large handfuls, beating out the seed, and fanning it in the wind.  The grains are about five eighths of an inch long, dark-colored and sweet.  I fancy the bread made from it must be as good as wheat bread.  A fine squirrelish employment this wild grain gathering seems, and the women were evidently enjoying it, laughing and chattering and looking almost natural, though most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:Indians I have seen are not a whit more natural in their lives than we civilized whites.  Perhaps if I knew them better I should like them better.  The worst thing about them is their uncleanliness.  Nothing truly wild is unclean.  Down on the shore of Mono Lake I saw a number of their flimsy huts on the banks of streams that dash swiftly into that dead sea, --mere brush tents where they lie and eat at their ease.  Some of the men were feasting on buffalo berries, lying beneath the tall bushes now red with fruit.  The berries are rather insipid, but they must needs be wholesome, since for days and weeks the Indians, it is said, eat nothing else.  In the season they in like manner depend chiefly on the fat larv&aelig; of a fly that breeds in the salt water of the lake, or on the big fat corrugated caterpillars of a species of silkworm that feeds on the leaves of the yellow pine.  Occasionally a grand rabbit-drive is organized and hundreds are slain with clubs on the lake shore, chased and frightened into a dense crowd by dogs, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:boys, girls, men and women, and rings of sage brush fire, when of course they are quickly killed.  The skins are made into blankets.  In the autumn the more enterprising of the hunters bring in a good many deer, and rarely a wild sheep from the high peaks.  Antelopes used to be abundant on the desert at the base of the interior mountain-ranges.  Sage hens, grouse, and squirrels help to vary their wild diet of worms; pine nuts also from the small interesting <HI REND="italics">Pinus monophylla</HI>
134.sgm:, and good bread and good mush are made from acorns and wild rye.  Strange to say, they seem to like the lake larv&aelig; best of all.  Long windrows are washed up on the shore, which they gather and dry like grain for winter use.  It is said that wars, on account of encroachments on each other's worm-grounds, are of common occurrence among the various tribes and families.  Each claims a certain marked portion of the shore.  The pine nuts are delicious, --large quantities are gathered every autumn.  The tribes of the west flank of the range trade acorns <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The desert around the lake is surprisingly <illus entity="a134-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MONO LAKE AND VOLCANIC CONES, LOOKING SOUTH</P>
134.sgm:<P>Opposite the mouth of the canon a range <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:of volcanic cones extends southward from the lake, rising abruptly out of the desert like a chain of mountains.  The largest of the cones are about twenty-five hundred feet high above the lake level, have well-formed craters, and all of them are evidently <illus entity="a134-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HIGHEST MONO VOLCANIC CONES (NEAR VIEW)</P>
134.sgm:comparatively recent additions to the landscape.  At a distance of a few miles they look like heaps of loose ashes that have never been blest by either rain or snow, but, for a' that and a' that, yellow pines are climbing their gray slopes, trying to clothe them and give beauty for ashes.  A country of wonderful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>Glad to get back to the green side of the mountains, though I have greatly enjoyed the gray east side and hope to see more of it.  Reading these grand mountain manuscripts displayed through every vicissitude of heat and cold, calm and storm, upheaving volcanoes and down-grinding glaciers, we see that everything in Nature called destruction must be creation, --a change from beauty to beauty.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Our glacier meadow camp north of the Soda Springs seems more beautiful every day.  The grass covers all the ground though the leaves are thread-like in fineness, and in walking on the sod it seems like a plush carpet of marvelous richness and softness, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Sierra Range from Mono Crater</HI>
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134.sgm:purple panicles brushing against one's feet are not felt.  This is a typical glacier meadow, occupying the basin of a vanished lake, very definitely bounded by walls of the arrowy two-leaved pines drawn up in handsome orderly array like soldiers on parade.  There are many other meadows of the same kind here abouts imbedded in the woods.  The main big meadows along the river are the same in general and extend with but little interruption for ten or twelve miles, but none I have seen are so finely finished and perfect as this one.  It is richer in flowering plants than the prairies of Wisconsin and Illinois were when in all their wild glory.  The showy flowers are mostly three species of gentian, a purple and yellow orthocarpus, a golden-rod or two, a small blue pentstemon almost like a gentian, potentilla, ivesia, pedicularis, white violet, kalmia, and bryanthus.  There are no coarse weedy plants.  Through this flowery lawn flows a stream silently gliding, swirling, slipping as if careful not to make the slightest noise.  It is only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Clouds none, cool west <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:wind, slight hoarfrost on the meadows.  Carlo is missing; have been seeking him all day.  In the thick woods between camp and the river, among tall grass and fallen pines, I discovered a baby fawn.  At first it seemed inclined to come to me; but when I tried to catch it, and got within a rod or two, it turned and walked softly away, choosing its steps like a cautious, stealthy, hunting cat.  Then, as if suddenly called or alarmed, it began to buck and run like a grown deer, jumping high above the fallen trunks, and was soon out of sight.  Possibly its mother may have called it, but I did not hear her.  I don't think fawns ever leave the home thicket or follow their mothers until they are called or frightened.  I am distressed about Carlo.  There are several other camps and dogs not many miles from here, and I still hope to find him.  He never left me before.  Panthers are very rare here, and I don't think any of these cats would dare touch him.  He knows bears too well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Cool, bright day, hinting Indian summer.  Mr. Delaney has gone to the Smith Ranch, on the Tuolumne below Hetch-Hetchy Valley, thirty-five or forty miles from here, so I'll be alone for a week or more, --not really alone, for Carlo has come back.  He was at a camp a few miles to the northwestward.  He looked sheepish and ashamed when I asked him where he had been and why he had gone away without leave.  He is now trying to get me to caress him and show signs of forgiveness.  A wondrous wise dog.  A great load is off my mind.  I could not have left the mountains without him.  He seems very glad to get back to me.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Rose and crimson sunset, and soon after the stars appeared the moon rose in most impressive majesty over the top of Mt. Dana. I sauntered up the meadow in the white light.  The jet-black tree-shadows were so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Another charming day, warm and calm soon after sunrise, clouds only about .01, --faint, silky cirrus wisps, scarcely visible.  Slight frost, Indian summerish, the mountains growing softer in outline and dreamy looking, their rough angles melted off, apparently.  Sky at evening with fine, dark, subdued purple, almost like the evening purple of the San Joaquin plains in settled weather.  The moon is now gazing over the summit of Dana.  Glorious exhilarating air.  I wonder if in all the world there is another mountain range of equal height blessed with weather so fine, and so openly kind and hospitable and approachable.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Cool as usual in the morning, quickly changing to the ordinary serene generous warmth and brightness.  Toward evening the west wind was cool and sent us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Frost this morning; all the meadow grass and some of the pine needles sparkling with irised crystals, --flowers of light.  Large picturesque clouds, craggy like rocks, are piled on Mt. Dana, reddish in color like the mountain itself; the sky for a few degrees around the horizon is pale purple, into which the pines dip their spires with fine effect.  Spent the day as usual looking about me, watching the changing lights, the ripening autumn colors of the grass, seeds, late-blooming gentians, asters, golden-rods; parting the meadow grass here and there and looking down into the underworld of mosses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The day has been extra cloudy, though bright on the whole, for the clouds were brighter than common.  Clouds about .15, which in Switzerland would be considered extra clear.  Probably more free sunshine falls on this majestic range than on any other in the world I've ever seen or heard of.  It has the brightest weather, brightest glacier-polished rocks, the greatest abundance of irised spray from its glorious waterfalls, the brightest forests of silver firs and silver pines, more star-shine, moonshine, and perhaps more crystal-shine than any other mountain chain, and its countless mirror lakes, having more light poured into them, glow and spangle most.  And how glorious the shining after the short <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Clouds only .05, --mostly white and pink cumuli over the Hoffman spur towards evening, --frosty morning.  Crystals grow in marvelous beauty and perfection of form these still nights, every one built as carefully as the grandest holiest temple, as if planned to endure forever.</P>
134.sgm:<P>Contemplating the lace-like fabric of streams outspread over the mountains, we are reminded that everything is flowing--going somewhere, animals and so-called lifeless rocks as well as water.  Thus the snow flows fast or slow in grand beauty-making glaciers and avalanches; the air in majestic floods carrying minerals, plant leaves, seeds, spores, with streams of music and fragrance; water <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The dawn a glorious song of color.  Sky absolutely cloudless.  A fine crop of hoarfrost.  Warm after ten o'clock.  The gentians don't mind the first frost though their petals seem so delicate; they close every night as if going to sleep, and awake fresh as ever in the morning sun-glory.  The grass is a shade browner since last week, but there are no nipped wilted plants of any sort as far as I have seen.  Butterflies and the grand host of smaller flies are benumbed every night, but they hover and dance in the sunbeams over the meadows before noon with no apparent lack of playful, joyful life.  Soon they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Clouds about .05, slight frost.  Bland serene Indian summer weather.  Have been gazing all day at the mountains, watching the changing lights.  More and more plainly are they clothed with light as a garment, white tinged with pale purple, palest during the midday hours, richest in the morning and evening.  Everything seems consciously peaceful, thoughtful, faithfully waiting God's will.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--This day just like yesterday.  A few clouds motionless and apparently with no work to do beyond looking beautiful.  Frost enough for crystal building, --glorious fields of ice-diamonds destined to last but a night.  How lavish is Nature building, pulling down, creating, destroying, chasing every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Mr. Delaney arrived this morning.  Felt not a trace of loneliness while he was gone.  On the contrary, I never enjoyed grander company.  The whole wilderness seems to be alive and familiar, full of humanity.  The very stones seem talkative, sympathetic, brotherly.  No wonder when we consider that we all have the same Father and Mother.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">August</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Clouds .05.  Silky cirrus wisps and fringes so fine they almost escape notice.  Frost enough for another crop of crystals on the meadows but none on the forests.  The gentians, golden-rods, asters, etc., don't seem to feel it; neither petals nor leaves are touched though they seem so tender.  Every day opens and closes like a flower, noiseless, effortless.  Divine peace glows on all the majestic landscape like the silent enthusiastic joy that sometimes transfigures a noble human face.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Clouds .05, --motionless, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:of no particular color, --ornaments with no hint of rain or snow in them.  Day all calm, --another grand throb of Nature's heart, ripening late flowers and seeds for next summer, full of life and the thoughts and plans of life to come, and full of ripe and ready death beautiful as life, telling divine wisdom and goodness and immortality.  Have been up Mt. Dana, making haste to see as much as I can now that the time of departure is drawing nigh.  The views from the summit reach far and wide, eastward over the Mono Lake and Desert; mountains beyond mountains looking strangely barren and gray and bare like heaps of ashes dumped from the sky.  The lake, eight or ten miles in diameter, shines like a burnished disk of silver, no trees about its gray, ashy, cindery shores.  Looking westward, the glorious forests are seen sweeping over countless ridges and hills, girdling domes and subordinate mountains, fringing in long curving lines the dividing ridges, and filling every hollow where the glaciers have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:spread soil-beds however rocky or smooth.  Looking northward and southward along the axis of the range, you see the glorious array of high mountains, crags and peaks and snow, the fountain-heads of rivers that are flowing west to the sea through the famous Golden Gate, and east to hot salt lakes and deserts to evaporate and hurry back into the sky.  Innumerable lakes are shining like eyes beneath heavy rock brows, bare or tree fringed, or imbedded in black forests.  Meadow openings in the woods seem as numerous as the lakes or perhaps more so.  Far up the moraine-covered slopes and among crumbling rocks I found many delicate hardy plants, some of them still in flower.  The best gains of this trip were the lessons of unity and inter-relation of all the features of the landscape revealed in general views.  The lakes and meadows are located just where the ancient glaciers bore heaviest at the foot of the steepest parts of their channels, and of course their longest diameters are approximately parallel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:with each other and with the belts of forests growing in long curving lines on the lateral and medial moraines, and in broad outspreading fields on the terminal beds deposited toward the end of the ice period when the glaciers were receding.  The domes, ridges, and spurs also show the influence of glacial action in their forms, which approximately seem to be the forms of greatest strength with reference to the stress of oversweeping, past-sweeping, down-grinding ice-streams; survivals of the most resisting masses, or those most favorably situated.  How interesting everything is!  Every rock, mountain, stream, plant, lake, lawn, forest, garden, bird, beast, insect seems to call and invite us to come and learn something of its history and relationship.  But shall the poor ignorant scholar be allowed to try the lessons they offer?  It seems too great and good to be true.  Soon I'll be going to the lowlands.  The bread camp must soon be removed.  If I had a few sacks of flour, an axe, and some matches, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:I would build a cabin of pine logs, pile up plenty of firewood about it and stay all winter to see the grand fertile snow-storms, watch the birds and animals that winter thus high, how they live, how the forests look <illus entity="a134-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ONE OF THE HIGHEST MT. RITTER FOUNTAINS</P>
134.sgm:snowladen or buried, and how the avalanches look and sound on their way down the mountains.  But now I'll have to go, for there is nothing to spare in the way of provisions.  I'll surely be back, however, surely I'll be back.  No <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--A grand, red, rosy, crimson day, --a perfect glory of a day.  What it means I don't know.  It is the first marked change from tranquil sunshine with purple mornings and evenings and still, white noons.  There is nothing like a storm, however.  The average cloudiness only about .08, and there is no sighing in the woods to betoken a big weather change.  The sky was red in the morning and evening, the color not diffused like the ordinary purple glow, but loaded upon separate well-defined clouds that remained motionless, as if anchored around the jagged mountain-fenced horizon.  A deep-red cap, bluffy around its sides, lingered a long time on Mt. Dana and Mt. Gibbs, drooping so low as to hide most of their bases, but leaving Dana's round summit free, which seemed to float separate and alone over the big crimson cloud.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:Mammoth Mountain, to the south of Gibbs and Bloody Can&tilde;on, striped and spotted with snow-banks and clumps of dwarf pine, was also favored with a glorious crimson cap, in the making of which there was no trace of economy, --a huge bossy pile colored with a perfect passion of crimson, that seemed important enough to be sent off to burn among the stars in majestic independence.  One is constantly reminded of the infinite lavishness and fertility of Nature, --inexhaustible abundance amid what seems enormous waste.  And yet when we look into any of her operations that lie within reach of our minds, we learn that no particle of her material is wasted or worn out.  It is eternally flowing from use to use, beauty to yet higher beauty; and we soon cease to lament waste and death, and rather rejoice and exult in the imperishable, unspendable wealth of the universe, and faithfully watch and wait the reappearance of everything that melts and fades and dies about us, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>I watched the growth of these red-lands of the sky as eagerly as if new mountain ranges were being built.  Soon the group of snowy peaks in whose recesses lie the highest fountains of the Tuolumne, Merced, and North Fork of the San Joaquin were decorated with majestic colored clouds like those already described, but more complicated, to correspond with the grand fountain-heads of the rivers they overshadowed.  The Sierra Cathedral, to the south of camp, was over-shadowed like Sinai.  Never before noticed so fine a union of rock and cloud in form and color and substance, drawing earth and sky together as one; and so human is it, every feature and tint of color goes to one's heart, and we shout, exulting in wild enthusiasm as if all the divine show were our own.  More and more, in a place like this, we feel ourselves part of wild Nature, kin to everything.  Spent most of the day high <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Here and there, as I plodded farther and higher, I came to small garden-patches and ferneries just where one would naturally decide that no plant-creature could possibly live.  But, as in the region about the head of Mono Pass and the top of Dana, it was in the wildest, highest places that the most beautiful and tender and enthusiastic plant-people were found.  Again and again, as I lingered over these charming plants, I said, How came you here?  How do you live through the winter?  Our roots, they explained, reach far down the joints of the summer-warmed rocks, and beneath our fine snow mantle killing frosts cannot reach us, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Ever since I was allowed entrance into these mountains I have been looking for cassiope, said to be the most beautiful and best loved of the heathworts, but, strange to say, I have not yet found it.  On my high mountain walks I keep muttering, "Cassiope, cassiope."  This name, as Calvinists say, is driven in upon me, notwithstanding the glorious host of plants that come about me uncalled as soon as I show myself.  Cassiope seems the highest name of all the small mountain-heath people, and as if conscious of her worth, keeps out of my way.  I must find her soon, if at all this year.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--All the vast sky dome is clear, filled only with mellow Indian summer light.  The pine and hemlock and fir cones are nearly ripe and are falling fast from morning to night, cut off and gathered by the busy squirrels.  Almost all the plants have matured their seeds, their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--No clouds.  Weather cool, calm, bright as if no great thing was yet ready to be done.  Have been sketching the North Tuolumne Church.  The sunset gloriously colored.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Still another perfectly cloudless day, purple evening and morning, all the middle hours one mass of pure serene sunshine.  Soon after sunrise the air grew warm, and there was no wind.  One naturally halted to see what Nature intended to do.  There is a suggestion of real Indian summer in the hushed, brooding, faintly hazy weather.  The yellow atmosphere, though thin, is still plainly of the same general character as that of eastern Indian summer.  The peculiar mellowness is perhaps in part caused by myriads of ripe spores adrift in the sky.</P>
134.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Mr. Delaney now keeps up a solemn talk about the need of getting away from these high mountains, telling sad stories of flocks that perished in storms that broke suddenly into the midst of fine innocent weather like this we are now enjoying.  "In no case," said he, "will I venture to stay so high and far back in the mountains as we now are later than the middle of this month, no matter how warm and sunny it may be."  He would move the flock slowly at first, a few miles a day until the Yosemite Creek basin was reached and crossed, then while lingering in the heavy pine woods should the weather threaten he could hurry down to the foothills, where the snow never falls deep enough to smother a sheep.  Of course I am anxious to see as much of the wilderness as possible in the few days left me, and I say again, --May the good time come when I can stay as long as I like with plenty of bread, far and free from trampling flocks, though I may well be thankful for this generous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Have been busy planning, and baking bread for at least one more good wild excursion among the high peaks, and surely none, however hopefully aiming at fortune or fame, ever felt so gloriously happily excited by the outlook.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Left camp at daybreak and made direct for Cathedral Peak, intending to strike eastward and southward from that point among the peaks and ridges at the heads of the Tuolumne, Merced, and San Joaquin rivers.  Down through the pine woods I made my way, across the Tuolumne River and meadows, and up the heavily timbered slope forming the south boundary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>All the way up from the Big Meadows to the base of the Cathedral the ground is covered with moraine material, the left lateral moraine of the great glacier that must have completely filled this upper Tuolumne basin.  Higher there are several small terminal moraines of residual glaciers shoved forward at right angles against the grand simple lateral of the main Tuolumne Glacier.  A fine place to study mountain sculpture and soil making.  The view from the Cathedral Spires is very fine and telling in every direction.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:Innumerable peaks, ridges, domes, meadows, lakes, and woods; the forests extending in long curving lines and broad fields wherever the glaciers have left soil for them to grow on, while the sides of the highest mountains show a straggling dwarf growth clinging to <illus entity="a134-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GLACIER MEADOW STREWN WITH MORAINE BOULDERS, 10,000 FEET ABOVE THE SEA (NEAR MT. DANA)</P>
134.sgm:</ILLUS>rifts in the rocks apparently independent of soil.  The dark heath-like growth on the Cathedral roof I found to be dwarf snow-pressed albicaulis pine, about three or four feet high, but very old looking.  Many of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:them are bearing cones, and the noisy Clarke crow is eating the seeds, using his long bill like a woodpecker in digging them out of the cones.  A good many flowers are still in bloom about the base of the peak, and even on the roof among the little pines, especially a woody yellow-flowered eriogonum and a handsome aster.  The body of the Cathedral is nearly square, and the roof slopes are wonderfully regular and symmetrical, the ridge trending northeast and southwest.  This direction has apparently been determined by structure joints in the granite.  The gable on the northeast end is magnificent in size and simplicity, and at its base there is a big snow-bank protected by the shadow of the building.  The front is adorned with many pinnacles and a tall spire of curious workmanship.  Here too the joints in the rock are seen to have played an important part in determining their forms and size and general arrangement.  The Cathedral is said to be about eleven thousand feet above the sea, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:but the height of the building itself above the level of the ridge it stands on is about fifteen hundred feet.  A mile or so to the westward there is a handsome lake, and the glacier-polished granite about it is shining so brightly it is not easy in some places to trace <illus entity="a134-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FRONT OF CATHEDRAL PEAK</P>
134.sgm:the line between the rock and water, both shining alike.  Of this lake with its silvery basin and bits of meadow and groves I have a fine view from the spires; also of Lake Tenaya, Cloud's Rest, and the South Dome of Yosemite, Mt. Starr King, Mt. Hoffman, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:the Merced peaks, and the vast multitude of snowy fountain peaks extending far north and south along the axis of the range.  No feature, however, of all the noble landscape as seen from here seems more wonderful than the Cathedral itself, a temple displaying Nature's best masonry and sermons in stones.  How often I have gazed at it from the tops of hills and ridges, and through openings in the forests on my many short excursions, devoutly wondering, admiring, longing!  This I may say is the first time I have been at church in California, led here at last, every door graciously opened for the poor lonely worshiper.  In our best times everything turns into religion, all the world seems a church and the mountains altars.  And lo, here at last in front of the Cathedral is blessed cassiope, ringing her thousands of sweet-toned bells, the sweetest church music I ever enjoyed.  Listening, admiring, until late in the afternoon I compelled myself to hasten away eastward back of rough, sharp, spiry, splintery <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:peaks, all of them granite like the Cathedral, sparkling with crystals, --feldspar, quartz, hornblende, mica, tourmaline.  Had a rather difficult walk and creep across an immense snow and ice cliff which gradually increased in steepness as I advanced until it was almost impassable.  Slipped on a dangerous place, but managed to stop by digging my heels into the thawing surface just on the brink of a yawning ice gulf.  Camped beside a little pool and a group of crinkled dwarf pines; and as I sit by the fire trying to write notes the shallow pool seems fathomless with the infinite starry heavens in it, while the onlooking rocks and trees, tiny shrubs and daisies and sedges, brought forward in the fire-glow, seem full of thought as if about to speak aloud and tell all their wild stories.  A marvelously impressive meeting in which every one has something worth while to tell.  And beyond the fire-beams out in the solemn darkness, how impressive is the music of a choir of rills singing their way down from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>About sundown saw a flock of dun grayish sparrows going to roost in crevices of a crag above the big snow-field.  Charming little mountaineers!  Found a species of sedge in flower within eight or ten feet of a snow-bank.  Judging by the looks of the ground, it can hardly have been out in the sunshine much longer than a week, and it is likely to be buried again in fresh snow in a month or so, thus making a winter about ten months long, while spring, summer, and autumn are crowded and hurried into two months.  How delightful it is to be alone here!  How wild everything is, --wild as the sky and as pure!  Never shall I forget this big, divine day, --the Cathedral and its thousands of cassiope bells, and the landscapes around them, and this camp <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Day of climbing, scrambling, sliding on the peaks around the highest sources of the Tuolumne and Merced.  Climbed three of the most commanding of the mountains, whose names I don't know; crossed streams and huge beds of ice and snow more than I could keep count of.  Neither could I keep count of the lakes scattered on tablelands and in the cirques of the peaks, and in chains in the can&tilde;ons, linked together by the streams, --a tremendously wild gray wilderness of hacked, shattered crags, ridges, and peaks, a few clouds drifting over and through the midst of them as if looking for work.  In general views all the immense round landscape seems raw and lifeless as a quarry, yet the most charming flowers were found rejoicing in countless nooks and garden-like patches everywhere.  I must have done three or four days' climbing work in this one.  Limbs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:perfectly tireless until near sundown, when I descended into the main upper Tuolumne <illus entity="a134-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Mt. Ritter<HSEP>VIEW OF UPPER TUOLUMNE VALLEY</P>
134.sgm:valley at the foot of Mt. Lyell, the camp still eight or ten miles distant.  Going up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Weariness rested away and I feel eager and ready for another excursion a month or two long in the same wonderful wilderness.  Now, however, I must turn toward the lowlands, praying and hoping Heaven will shove me back again.</P>
134.sgm:<P>The most telling thing learned in these mountain excursions is the influence of cleavage joints on the features sculptured from the general mass of the range.  Evidently the denudation has been enormous, while the inevitable outcome is subtle balanced beauty.  Comprehended in general views, the features of the wildest landscape seem to be as harmoniously related as the features of a human face.  Indeed, they look human and radiate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Mr. Delaney has hardly had time to ask me how I enjoyed my trip, though he has facilitated and encouraged my plans all summer, and declares I'll be famous some day, a kind guess that seems strange and incredible to a wandering wilderness-lover with never a thought or dream of fame while humbly trying to trace and learn and enjoy Nature's lessons.</P>
134.sgm:<P>The camp stuff is now packed on the horses, and the flock is headed for the home ranch.  Away we go, down through the pines, leaving the lovely lawn where we have camped so long.  I wonder if I'll ever see it again.  The sod is so tough and close it is scarcely at all injured by the sheep.  Fortunately they are not fond of silky glacier meadow grass.  The day is perfectly clear, not a cloud or the faintest hint of a cloud is visible, and there is no wind.  I wonder if in all the world, at a height of nine thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Though the water is now low in the river, the usual difficulty occurred in getting the flock across it.  Every sheep seemed to be invincibly determined to die any sort of dry death rather than wet its feet.  Carlo has learned the sheep business as perfectly as the best shepherd, and it is interesting to watch his intelligent efforts to push or frighten the silly creatures into the water.  They had to be fairly crowded and shoved over the bank; and when at last one crossed because it could not push its way back, the whole flock suddenly plunged in headlong together, as if the river was the only desirable part of the world.  Aside from mere money profit one would rather herd wolves than sheep.  As soon as they clambered up the opposite bank, they began baaing and feeding as if nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--In the morning at daybreak not one of the two thousand sheep was in sight.  Examining the tracks, we discovered that they had been scattered, perhaps by a bear.  In a few hours all were found and gathered into one flock again.  Had fine view of a deer.  How graceful and perfect in every way it seemed as compared with the silly, dusty, tousled sheep!  From the high ground hereabouts had another grand view to the northward, --a heaving, swelling sea of domes and round-backed ridges fringed with pines, and bounded by innumerable sharp-pointed peaks, gray and barren-looking, though so full of beautiful life.  Another day of the calm, cloudless kind, purple in the morning and evening.  The evening glow has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Cloudless.  Slight frost.  Calm.  Fairly started down hill, and now are camped at the west end meadows of Lake Tenaya, --a charming place.  Lake smooth as glass, mirroring its miles of glacier-polished pavements and bold mountain walls.  Find aster still in flower.  Here is about the upper limit of the dwarf form of the goldcup oak, --eight thousand feet above sea-level, --reaching about two thousand feet higher than the California black oak ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus Californicus</HI>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Cloudless day, all pure sun-gold.  Among the magnificent silver firs once more, within two miles of the brink of Yosemite, at the famous Portuguese bear camp.  Chaparral of goldcup oak, manzanita, and ceanothus abundant hereabouts, wanting about the Tuolumne meadows, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Camp this evening at Yosemite Creek, close to the stream, on a little sand flat near our old camp-ground.  The vegetation is already brown and yellow and dry; the creek almost dry also.  The slender form of the two-leaved pine on its banks is, I think, the handsomest I have anywhere seen.  It might easily pass at first sight for a distinct species, though surely only a variety ( <HI REND="italics">Murrayana</HI>
134.sgm: ), due to crowded and rapid growth on good soil.  The yellow pine is as variable, or perhaps more so.  The form here and a thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:feet higher, on crumbling rocks, is broad branching, with closely furrowed, reddish bark, large cones, and long leaves.  It is one of the hardiest of pines, and has wonderful vitality.  The tassels of long, stout needles shining silvery in the sun, when the wind is blowing them all in the same direction, is one of the most splendid spectacles these glorious Sierra forests have to show.  This variety of <HI REND="italics">Pinus ponderosa</HI>
134.sgm: is regarded as a distinct species, <HI REND="italics">Pinus Jeffreyi</HI>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Nearly all day in magnificent fir forest, the top branches laden <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Camped for the night at Cascade Creek, near the Mono Trail crossing.  Manzanita berries now ripe.  Cloudiness to-day about .10.  The sunset very rich, flaming purple and crimson showing gloriously through the aisles of the woods.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The weather pure gold, cloudiness about .05, white cirrus flecks and pencilings around the horizon.  Move two or three miles and camp at Tamarack Flat.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>349</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Crawled slowly four or five miles to-day through the glorious forest to Crane Flat, where we are camped for the night.  The forests we so admired in summer seem still more beautiful and sublime in this mellow autumn light.  Lovely starry night, the tall, spiring tree-tops relieved in jet black against the sky.  I linger by the fire, loath to go to bed.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Left camp early.  Ran over the Tuolumne divide and down a few miles to a grove of sequoias that I had heard of, directed by the Don.  They occupy an area of perhaps less than a hundred acres.  Some of the trees are noble, colossal old giants, surrounded by magnificent sugar pines and Douglas spruces.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>350</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:perfect specimens not burned or broken are singularly regular and symmetrical, though not at all conventional, showing infinite variety in general unity and harmony; the noble shafts with rich purplish brown fluted bark, free of limbs for one hundred and fifty feet or so, ornamented here and there with leafy rosettes; main branches of the oldest trees very large, crooked and rugged, zigzagging stiffly outward seemingly lawless, yet unexpectedly stopping just at the right distance from the trunk and dissolving in dense bossy masses of branchlets, thus making a regular though greatly varied outline, --a cylinder of leafy, outbulging spray masses, terminating in a noble dome, that may be recognized while yet far off upheaved against the sky above the dark bed of pines and firs and spruces, the king of all conifers, not only in size but in sublime majesty of behavior and port.  I found a black, charred stump about thirty feet in diameter and eighty or ninety feet high, --a venerable, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<illus entity="a134-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">In Tuolumne Sequoia Grove</HI>
134.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>351</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Camp this evening at Hazel Green, on the broad back of the dividing ridge near our old camp-ground when we were on the way up the mountains in the spring.  This ridge has the finest sugar pine groves and finest manzanita and ceanothus thickets I have yet found on all this wonderful summer journey.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Made a long descent on the south side of the divide to Brown's Flat, the grand forests now left above us, though the sugar pine still flourishes fairly well, and with the yellow pine, libocedrus, and Douglas spruce, makes forests that would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>352</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>The Indians here, with great concern, pointed to an old garden patch on the flat and told us to keep away from it.  Perhaps some of their tribe are buried here.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--Camped this evening at Smith's Mill, on the first broad mountain bench or plateau reached in ascending the range, where pines grow large enough for good lumber.  Here wheat, apples, peaches, and grapes grow, and we were treated to wine and apples.  The wine I didn't like, but Mr. Delaney and the Indian driver and the shepherd seemed to think the stuff divine.  Compared to sparkling Sierra water fresh from the heavens, it seemed a dull, muddy, stupid drink.  But the apples, best of fruits, how delicious they were!--fit for gods or men.</P>
134.sgm:<P>On the way down from Brown's Flat we stopped at Bower Cave, and I spent an hour in it, --one of the most novel and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>353</PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The weather still golden and calm, but hot.  We are now in the foot-hills, and all the conifers are left behind except the gray Sabine pine.  Camped at the Dutch Boy's Ranch, where there are extensive barley fields now showing nothing save dusty stubble.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--A terribly hot, dusty, sun-burned day, and as nothing was to be gained by loitering where the flock could find nothing to eat save thorny twigs and chaparral, we made a long drive, and before sundown reached the home ranch on the yellow San Joaquin plain.</P>
134.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
134.sgm:<P>--The sheep were let out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
134.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
134.sgm:<P>Here ends my forever memorable first High Sierra excursion. I have crossed the Range of Light, surely the brightest and best of all the Lord has built; and rejoicing in its glory, I gladly, gratefully, hopefully pray I may see it again.</P>
134.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
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134.sgm:<P>The Riverside Press <LB>CAMBRIDGE  .  MASSACHUSETTS</P>
134.sgm:<P>U.S.A.</P>
135.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-135</TITLE>
135.sgm:<TITLE>Discovery of the Yosemite, and the Indian war of 1851, which led to that event. By Lafayette Houghton Bunnell: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
135.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
135.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
135.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
135.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
135.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
135.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-626</LCCN>
135.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
135.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>2122</COPYRIGHT>
135.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE,</P>
135.sgm:<P>AND</P>
135.sgm:<P>THE INDIAN WAR OF 1851,</P>
135.sgm:<P>WHICH LED TO THAT EVENT.</P>
135.sgm:<P>BY</P>
135.sgm:<P>LAFAYETTE HOUGHTON BUNNELL, M.D.,</P>
135.sgm:<P>OF THE MARIPOSA BATTALION, ONE OF THE DISCOVERERS,</P>
135.sgm:<P>LATE SURGEON THIRTY-SIXTH REGIMENT</P>
135.sgm:<P>WISCONSIN VOLUNTEERS.</P>
135.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">THIRD EDITION--REVISED AND CORRECTED</HI>
135.sgm:<P>FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY,</P>
135.sgm:<P>NEW YORK: 30 UNION SQUARE: EAST.</P>
135.sgm:<P>CHICAGO: 148 AND 150 MADISON ST</P>
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135.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1880-1892, by</P>
135.sgm:<P>L. H. BUNNELL,</P>
135.sgm:<P>In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.</P>
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135.sgm:<HEAD>DEDICATION.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>TO THE</P>
135.sgm:<P>HON. CHARLES H. BERRY,</P>
135.sgm:<P>THIS BOOK,</P>
135.sgm:<P>IN REMEMBRANCE OF KINDLY SUGGESTIONS,</P>
135.sgm:<P>IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.</P>
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135.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>I.  MAPS,<HSEP>FRONTISPIECE.<LB>II.  PORTRAIT,<LB>III.  THE YOSEMITE VALLEY,<HSEP>13<LB>IV.  EL CAPITAN,<HSEP>54<LB>V.  BRIDAL VEIL FALL,<HSEP>59<LB>VI.  HALF DOME,<HSEP>74<LB>VII.  NORTH DOME AND ROYAL ARCHES,<HSEP>75<LB>VIII.  CATHEDRAL ROCKS,<HSEP>77<LB>IX.  GLACIER FALL,<HSEP>84<LB>X.  VERNAL FALL AND ROUND RAINBOW,<HSEP>86<LB>XI.  NEVADA FALL,<HSEP>87<LB>XII.  CACHES, OR ACORN STOREHOUSES,<HSEP>129<LB>XIII.  THREE BROTHERS,<HSEP>146<LB>XIV.  YOSEMITE FALL,<HSEP>166<LB>XV.  MIRROR LAKE,<HSEP>204<LB>XVI.  SENTINEL ROCK,<HSEP>213<LB>XVII.  THE INDIAN BELLE,<HSEP>219<LB>XVIII.  LAKE TEN-IE-YA,<HSEP>236<LB>XIX.  LAKE STARR KING,<HSEP>290<LB>XX.  BIG TREE,<HSEP>333<LB>XXI.  RIDING THROUGH A TREE TRUNK,<HSEP>325<LB>FIRE STICK,<HSEP>134<LB>TUNNELED TREE<HSEP>340</P>
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135.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>Incidents leading to the Discovery of the Yosemite Valley--Major Savage and Savages--Whiskey, Wrangling and War--Skinned Alive--A brisk Fight--Repulse--Another Fight, and Conflagration,<HSEP>1<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>The Governor of California issues a Proclamation--Formation of the Mariposa Battalion--The Origin and Cause of the War--New Material Public Documents--A Discussion--Capt. Walker--The Peace Commissioners' Parley and the Indians' Pow-wow--The Mysterious Deep Valley--Forward, March!<HSEP>29<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>March Down the South Fork--Capture of an Indian Village--Hungry Men--An able Surgeon--Snow Storms--Visit of Ten-ie-ya, Chief of the Yosemites--Commander's Dilemma--Unique Manner of Extrication--Approaching the Valley--First View--Sensations Experienced--A Lofty Flight Brought Down,<HSEP>40<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>Naming the Valley--Signification and Origin of the Word--Its proper Pronunciation: Yo-sem-i-ty--Mr. Hutchings and Yo-Ham-i-te--His Restoration of Yo-sem-i-te,<HSEP>57<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>Date of Discovery--First White Visitors--Captain Joe Walker's Statement Ten-ie-ya's Cunning--Indian Tradition--A Lying Guide--The Ancient Squaw--Destroying Indian Stores--Sweat-houses--The Mourner's Toilet--Sentiment and Reality--Return to Head-quarters,<HSEP>70 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:CHAPTER VI.<LB>Out of Provisions--A Hurried Move--Mills where Indians take their Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food--Advance Movement of Captain Dill--A Hungry Squad--Enjoyment--Neglect of Duty--Escape of Indians--Following their Trail--A Sorrowful Captain--A Mystery made Clear--Duplicity of the Chow-chillas--Vow-chester's Good-will Offering--Return of the Fugitives--Major Savage as Agent and Interpreter,<HSEP>92<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>Campaign against the Chow-chillas--The Favorite Hunting Ground--A Deer Hunt and a Bear <HI REND="italics">Chase</HI>
135.sgm: --An Accident and an Alarm--A Torch-light Pow-wow--Indians Discovered--Captain Boling's Speech--Crossing of the San Joaquin--A Line of Battle, its Disappearance--Capture of Indian Village--Jose Rey's Funeral-pyre--Following the Trail--A Dilemma--Sentiment and Applause--Returning to Camp--Narrow Escape of Captain Boling,<HSEP>105<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>A Camp Discussion--War or Police Clubs--Jack Regrets a Lost Opportunity--Boling's Soothing Syrup--A Scribe Criticises and Apologises--Indian War Material and its Manufacture--The Fire-stick and its Sacred Uses--Arrival at Head-quarters,<HSEP>123<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>Starvation Subdues the Chow-chillas, and the Result is Peace--Captain Kuykendall's Expeditions--An Attack--Rout and Pursuit--A Wise Conclusion--Freezing out Indians--A Wild Country--A Terrific View--Yosemite <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
135.sgm: King's River--Submission of the Indians South of the San Joaquin--Second Expedition to Yosemite--Daring Scouts--Capture of Indians--Naming of "Three Brothers,"<HSEP>135<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>A General Scout--An Indian Trap--Flying Artillery--A Narrow Escape--A Tragic Scene--Fortunes of War--A Scout's Description--Recovery from a Sudden Leap--Surrounded by Enemies,<HSEP>148 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:CHAPTER XI.<LB>Camp Amusements--A Lost Arrow--Escape of a Prisoner--Escape of Anther--Shooting of the Third--Indian Diplomacy--Taking His Own Medicine--Ten-ie ya Captured--Grief over the Death of His Son--Appetite under Adverse Circumstances--Poetry Dispelled--Really a Dirty Indian,<HSEP>160<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>Bears and Other Game--Sickness of Captain Boling--Convalescence and Determination--A Guess at Heights--A Tired Doctor and a Used-up Captain--Surprising an Indian--Know-nothingness, or Native Americanism--A Clue and Discovery--A Short-cut to Camp, but an Unpopular Route,<HSEP>175<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>The Indian Names--Difficulty of their Interpretation--Circumstances Suggesting Names of Vernal, Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls--Mr. Richardson's Descriptions of the Falls and Round Rainbow--Py-we-ack Misplaced, and " <HI REND="italics">Illiluette</HI>
135.sgm: " an Absurdity--An English Name Suggested for Too-lool-lo-we-ack, Pohono and Tote-ack-ah-nu&die;-la--Indian Superstitions and Spiritual Views--A Free National Park Desirable--Off on the Trail,<HSEP>198<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>A Mountain Storm--Delay of Supplies--Clams and Ipecac--Arrival of Train--A Cute Indian--Indian Sagacity--A Dangerous Weapon--Capture of Indian Village--An Eloquent Chief--Woman's Rights <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
135.sgm: Squaw's Wrongs--A Disturbed Family--A Magnificent Sunrise--On a Slippery Slope--Sentiment and Poetry--Arrival at the Fresno,<HSEP>222<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>The Flora of the Region of the Yosemite--General Description of the Valley and its Principal Points of Interest, with their Heights,<HSEP>240 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:CHAPTER XVI.<LB>A Trip to Los Angeles--Interview with Colonel McKee--A Night at Colonel Fremont's Camp--Management of Cattle by the Colonel's Herdsmen--Back to Los Angeles--Specimen Bricks of the Angel City--An Addition to our Party--Mules <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
135.sgm: Bears--Don Vincente--A Silver Mine--Mosquitos--A Dry Bog--Return to Fresno--Muster out of Battalion--A Proposition,<HSEP>257<LB>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>Captain Boling elected Sheriff--Appointment of Indian Agents--Ten-ie-ya allowed to Return to Yosemite--Murder of Visitors--Lieut. Moore's Expedition and Punishment of Murderers--Gold Discoveries on Eastern Slope of Sierras--Report of Expedition, and First <HI REND="italics">Published</HI>
135.sgm: Notice of Yosemite--Squatter Sovereignty--Assault upon King's River Reservation--The supposed Leader, Harvey Denounced by Major Savage--A Rencounter, and Death of Savage--Harvey Liberated by a Friendly Justice--An Astute Superintendent--A Mass Meeting--A Rival Aspirant--Indians and Indian Policy,<HSEP>272<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>Murder of Starkey--Death of Ten-ie-ya and Extinction of his Band--A few Surviving Murderers--An Attempt at Reformation--A Failure and Loss of a Mule--Murders of Robert D. Sevil and Robert Smith--Alarm of the People--A False Alarm,<HSEP>291<LB>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>Engineering and History--Speculation and Discouragement--A New Deal--Wall Street--A Primitive Bridge--First Woman in the Yosemite--Lady Visitors from Mariposa and Lady Teachers from San Francisco--Measurements of Heights--First Houses and their Occupants--A Gay Party and a Glorious Feast,<HSEP>301<LB>CHAPTER XX.<LB>Golden Theories and Glaciers,<HSEP>319<LB>CHAPTER XXI.<LB>Big Trees of California or Sequoia Gigantea--Their Discovery and Classification,<HSEP>333<LB>CHAPTER XXII.<LB>Statistics--Roads and Accommodations--Chapel and Sunday School--Big Farms and Great Resources--A Variety of Products--Long Hoped for Results,<HSEP>343</P>
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135.sgm:<HEAD>INTRODUCTION.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>The book here presented is the result of an attempt to correct existing errors relative to the Yosemite Valley.  It was originally designed to compress the matter in this volume within the limits of a magazine article, but this was soon found to be impracticable; and, at the suggestion of Gen. C. H. Berry, of Winona, Minnesota, it was decided to "write a book."</P>
135.sgm:<P>This, too, proved more difficult than at first appeared.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Born in Rochester, New York, in 1824, and carried to Western wilds in 1833, the writer's opportunities for culture were limited; and in this, his first attempt at authorship, he has found that the experiences of frontier life are not the best preparations for literary effort.  Beside this, he had mainly to rely upon his own resources, for nothing could be obtained in the archives of California that could aid him.  It was not deemed just that California should forget the deeds of men who had subdued her savages, and discovered her most sublime scenery.  Having been a member of the "Mariposa Battalion," and with it when the Yosemite was discovered, having suggested its name, and named many of the principal objects of interest in and near the valley, it seemed a duty that the writer owed his comrades and himself, to give the full history of these events.  Many of the facts incident thereto have already been given to the public by the author at various times since 1851, but these have been so mutilated or blended with fiction, that a renewed and full statement of facts concerning that remarkable locality seems desirable.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>While engaged upon this work, the writer was aided by the scientific researches of Prof. J. D. Whitney, and by the "acute and helpful criticism" of Doctor James M. Cole of Winona, Minnesota.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Since the publication of the second edition of this book, and an article from the author's pen in the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>In addition to what may properly belong to this history, there have been introduced a few remarks concerning the habits and character of the Indians.  This subject is not <HI REND="italics">entirely new</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The incidental remarks about game will probably interest some.  To the author, the study of nature in all its aspects has been interesting.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The author's views regarding the gold deposits and glaciers of the Sierras are given simply as suggestions.</P>
135.sgm:<P>His especial efforts have been directed to the placing on record events connected with the <HI REND="italics">discovery</HI>
135.sgm:<P>WONDER LAND.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Hail thee, Yosemite, park of sublimity!<LB>Majesty, peerless and old!<LB>Ye mountains and cliffs, ye valleys and rifts,<LB>Ye cascades and cataracts bold!<LB>None, none can divine the wonders of thine,<LB>When told of the glorious view!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:The wild world of light--from "Beatitude's" height,<LB>Old "Rock Chief,"<ANCHOR ID="ni-1">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-1">"Rock Chief," a literal translation of "Tote-ack-ah-noo-la," rendered "El Capitan" in Spanish, from the likeness of a man's head upon the wall.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>Thy head proud and high! white brow to the sky!</P>
135.sgm:<P>Thy features the thunderbolts dare!</P>
135.sgm:<P>Thou o'erlookest the wall would the boldest appal</P>
135.sgm:<P>Who enter Yosemite's "Lair."<ANCHOR ID="ni-2">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<P>Fair "Bridal Veil Fall!" the queen over all,</P>
135.sgm:<P>In beauty and grace intertwined!</P>
135.sgm:<P>Even now from thy height water-rockets of light</P>
135.sgm:<P>Dart away, and seem floating in wind!</P>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-2">The Yosemites were known as the "Bear tribe."  "Ten-ie-ya" was chief.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>And thou, high "Scho-look!" proud "Ah-wah-ne!" invoke</P>
135.sgm:<P>To receive from "Kay-o-pha"<ANCHOR ID="ni-3">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<P>That flowing from pines, in the region of vines,</P>
135.sgm:<P>May temper the heat of bright noon.</P>
135.sgm:<P>"Nevada" and "Vernal," emblems eternal</P>
135.sgm:<P>Of winter and loveliest Spring,</P>
135.sgm:<P>No language so bold the truth can unfold--</P>
135.sgm:<P>No pen can thee offerings bring!</P>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-3">"Scho look" is the Indian name for the "High Fall;" "Ah-wah-ne," the <HI REND="italics">old</HI>
135.sgm:<P>And yet dare I say, of the cool "Vernal Spray,"</P>
135.sgm:<P>In the flash of the bright sun's power,</P>
135.sgm:<P>I welcome thy "ring,"<ANCHOR ID="ni-4">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<P>The smile of a god's in the shower!</P>
135.sgm:<P>And thou, "Glacier Fall,"<ANCHOR ID="ni-5">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<P>And winter-bound lakes at thy head--</P>
135.sgm:<P>Thy nymphs never seen, except by the sheen</P>
135.sgm:<P>So fitful from "Mirror Lake's" bed.</P>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-4">At intervals at the Vernal a <HI REND="italics">round</HI>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-5">"Glacier Fall," in place of "Too-loo-lo-we-ack."</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>Ye North and South Domes,<ANCHOR ID="ni-6">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<P>"Cloud's Rest," and high "Tis-sa-ack" lone;</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mute "Sentinel, "Brothers," ye "Starr King," ye others--</P>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-6">"Sentinel Dome" was known to the discoverers as the "South Dome," and "Tis sa ack," meaning cleft-rock, as the "Half Dome."</NOTE>
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135.sgm:<P>Oh! what of the past have ye known?</P>
135.sgm:<P>To you has been given the mission from heaven</P>
135.sgm:<P>To watch through the ages of earth!</P>
135.sgm:<P>Your presence sublime is the chronicled time,</P>
135.sgm:<P>From the &aelig;on the world had birth!</P>
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135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW OF THE YOSEMITE.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Looking up the valley from a height of about 1,000 feet above the Merced River, and above sea level 5,000 feet, giving some faint idea of the beauty, grandeur and magnitude of this magnificent work of nature.</P>
135.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Incidents leading to the discovery of the Yosemite Valley--Major Savage and Savages--Whiskey, wrangling and War--Skinned Alive--A brisk Fight--Repulse--Another Fight, and Conflagration.</P>
135.sgm:<P>DURING the winter of 1849-50, while ascending the old Bear Valley trail from Ridley's ferry, on the Merced river, my attention was attracted to the stupendous rocky peaks of the Sierra Nevadas.  In the distance an immense cliff loomed, apparently to the summit of the mountains.  Although familiar with nature in her wildest moods, I looked upon this awe-inspiring column with wonder and admiration.  While vainly endeavoring to realize its peculiar prominence and vast proportions, I turned from it with reluctance to resume the search for coveted gold; but the impressions of that scene were indelibly fixed in my memory.  Whenever an opportunity afforded, I made inquiries concerning the scenery of that locality.  But few of the miners had noticed any of its special peculiarities.  On a second visit to Ridley's, not long after, that towering mountain which had so profoundly interested me was invisible, an intervening haze obscuring it from view.  A year or more passed before the mysteries of this wonderful land were satisfactorily solved.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>During the winter of 1850-51, I was attached to an expedition that made the first discovery of what is now known as the Yosemite Valley.  While entering it, I saw at a glance that the reality of my sublime vision at Ridley's ferry, forty miles away, was before me.  The locality of the mysterious cliff was there revealed--its proportions enlarged and perfected.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The discovery of this remarkable region was an event intimately connected with the history of the early settlement of that portion of California.  During 1850, the Indians in Mariposa county, which at that date included all the territory south of the divide of the Tuolumne and Merced rivers within the valley proper of the San Joaquin, became very troublesome to the miners and settlers.  Their depredations and murderous assaults were continued until the arrival of the United States Indian commissioners, in 1851, when the general government assumed control over them.  Through the management of the commissioners, treaties were made, and many of these Indians were transferred to locations reserved for their special occupancy.</P>
135.sgm:<P>It was in the early days of the operations of this commission that the Yosemite Valley was first entered by a command virtually employed to perform the special police duties of capturing and bringing the Indians before these representatives of the government, in order that treaties might be made with them.  These wards of the general government were provided with supplies at the expense of the public treasury: provided that they confined themselves to the reservations selected for them.</P>
135.sgm:<P>My recollections of those early days are from personal observations and information derived from the earlier settlers of the San Joaquin valley, with whom I was personally acquainted in the mining camps, and through business connections; and also from comrades in the Indian war of  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>At this point, engaged in gold mining, he had employed a party of native Indians.  Early in the season of 1850 his trading post and mining camp were attacked by a band of the Yosemite Indians.  This tribe, or band, claimed the territory in that vicinity, and attempted to drive Savage off.  Their real object, however, was plunder.  They were considered treacherous and dangerous, and were very troublesome to the miners generally.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Savage and his Indian miners repulsed the attack and drove off the marauders, but from this occurrence he no longer deemed this location desirable.  Being fully aware of the murderous propensities of his assailants, he removed to Mariposa Creek, not far from the junction of the Aqua Fria, and near to the site of the old stone fort.  Soon after, he established a branch post on the Fresno, where the mining prospects became most encouraging, as the high water subsided in that stream.  This branch station was placed in charge of a man by the name of Greeley.</P>
135.sgm:<P>At these establishments Savage soon built up a prosperous business.  He exchanged his goods at enormous profits for the gold obtained from his Indian miners.  The white miners and prospecting parties also submitted to his demands rather than lose time by going to Mariposa village.  The value of his patrons' time was thus made a source of revenue.  As the season advanced, this hardy pioneer of commerce rapidly increased his wealth, but in the midst of renewed prosperity he learned that another cloud was gathering over him.  One of his five squaws assured him that a combination was maturing among the mountain Indians, to kill or drive all the white men from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3a</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>These reports he affected to disregard, but quietly cautioned the miners to guard against marauders.</P>
135.sgm:<P>He also sent word to the leading men in the settlements that hostilities were threatened, and advised preparations against a surprise.</P>
135.sgm:<P>At his trading posts he treated the rumors with indifference, but instructed the men in his employ to be continually on their guard in his absence.  Stating that he was going to " <HI REND="italics">the Bay</HI>
135.sgm:<P>This Indian, Jose Juarez, was in reality one of the leading spirits in arousing hostilities against the whites.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding Juarez appeared to show regard for Savage, the trader had doubts of his sincerity, but, as he had no fears of personal injury, he carefully kept his suspicions to himself.  The real object Savage had in making this trip was to place in a safe locality a large amount of gold which he had on hand; and he took the chief to impress him with the futility of any attempted outbreak by his people.  He hoped that a visit to Stockton and San Francisco, where Jose could see the numbers and superiority of the whites, would so impress him that on his return to the mountains his report would deter the Indians from their proposed hostilities.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>The trip was made without any incidents of importance, but, to Savage's disappointment and regret, Jose developed an instinctive love for whiskey, and having been liberally supplied with gold, he invested heavily in that favorite Indian beverage, and was stupidly drunk nearly all the time he was in the city.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Becoming disgusted with Jose's frequent intoxication, Savage expressed in emphatic terms his disapprobation of such a course.  Jose at once became greatly excited, and forgetting his usual reserve, retorted in abusive epithets, and disclosed his secret of the intended war against the whites.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Savage also lost his self-control, and with a blow felled the drunken Indian to the ground.  Jose arose apparently sober, and from that time maintained a silent and dignified demeanor.  After witnessing the celebration of the admission of the State into the Union--which by appointment occurred on October 29th, 1850, though the act of admission passed Congress on the 9th of September of that year--and making arrangements to have goods forwarded as he should order them, Savage started back with his dusky retainers for Mariposa.  On his arrival at Quartzberg, he learned that the Kah-we-ah Indians were exacting tribute from the immigrants passing through their territory, and soon after his return a man by the name of Moore was killed not far from his Mariposa Station.  From the information here received, and reported murders of emigrants, he scented danger to himself.  Learning that the Indians were too numerous at "Cassady's Bar," on the San Joaquin, and in the vicinity of his Fresno Station, he at once, with characteristic promptness and courage, took his course direct to that post.  He found, on arriving there, that all was quiet, although some Indians were about, as if for trading purposes.  Among them were Pon-wat-chee <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Savage greeted all with his customary salutation.  Leaving his squaws to confer with their friends and to provide for their own accommodations, he quietly examined the memoranda of his agent, and the supply of goods on hand.  With an appearance of great indifference, he listened to the business reports and gossip of Greeley, who informed him that Indians from different tribes had come in but had brought but little gold.  To assure himself of the progress made by the Indians in forming a union among themselves, he called those present around him in front of his store, and passed the friendly pipe.  After the usual silence and delay.  Savage said: "I know that all about me are my friends, and as a friend to all, I wish to have a talk with you before I go back to my home on the Mariposa, from which I have been a long distance away, but where I could not stop until I had warned you.</P>
135.sgm:<P>"I know that some of the Indians do not wish to be friends with the white men, and that they are trying to unite the different tribes for the purpose of a war.  It is better for the Indians and white men to be friends.  If the Indians make war on the white men, every tribe will be exterminated; not one will be left.  I have just been where the white men are more numerous than the wasps and ants; and if war is made and the Americans are aroused to anger, every Indian engaged in the war will be killed before the whites will be satisfied."  In a firm and impressive manner Savage laid before them the damaging effects of a war, and the advantages to all of a continued peaceful intercourse.  His knowledge of Indian language was sufficient to make his remarks clearly understood, and they were apparently well received.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Not supposing that Jose would attempt there to advocate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4b</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The cunning chief with much dignity, deliberately stepped forward, with more assurance than he had shown since the belligerent occurrence at the bay, and spoke with more energy than Savage had anticipated.  He commenced by saying: "Our brother has told his Indian relatives much that is truth; we have seen many people; the white men are very numerous; but the white men we saw on our visit are of many tribes; they are not like the tribe that dig gold in the mountains."  He then gave an absurd description of what he had seen while below, and said: "Those white tribes will not come to the mountains.  They will not help the gold diggers if the Indians make war against them.  If the gold diggers go to the white tribes in the big village they give their gold for strong water and games; when they have no more gold the white tribes drive the gold-diggers back to the mountains with clubs.  They strike them down (referring to the police), as your white relative struck me while I was with him."  (His vindictive glance assured Savage that the blow was not forgotten or forgiven.)  "The white tribes will not go to war with the Indians in the mountains.  They cannot bring their big ships and big guns to us; we have no cause to fear them.  They will not injure us."</P>
135.sgm:<P>To Savage's extreme surprise, he then boldly advocated an immediate war upon the whites, assuring his listeners that, as all the territory belonged to the Indians, if the tribes would unite the whole tribe of gold-diggers could be easily driven from their country; but, if the gold-diggers should stay longer, their numbers will be too great to make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5a</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Jose observing the effects of these statements, excitedly interrupted Savage by entering the circle, exclaiming: "He is telling you words that are not true.  His tongue is forked and crooked.  He is telling lies to his Indian relatives.  This trader is not a friend to the Indians.  He is not our brother.  He will help the white gold-diggers to drive the Indians from their country.  We can now drive them from among us, and if the other white tribes should come to their help, we will go to the mountains; if they follow after us, they cannot find us; none of them will come back; we will kill them with arrows and with rocks."  While Jose was thus vociferously haranguing, other Indians came into the grounds, and the crisis was approaching.  As Jose Juarez ended his speech, Jose Rey, another influential chief and prominent leader, walked proudly into the now enlarged circle, followed by his suite of treacherous Chow-chillas, among whom were Tom-Kit and Frederico.  He keenly glanced about him, and assuming a grandly tragic style, at once commenced a speech by saying: "My people are now ready to begin a war against the white gold-diggers.  If all the tribes will be as one tribe, and join with us, we will drive all the white men from our mountains.  If all the tribes will go together, the white men will run from us, and leave their property behind them.  The tribes who join in with my people will be the first to secure the property of the gold-diggers."</P>
135.sgm:<P>The dignity and eloquent style of Jose Rey controlled the attention of the Indians.  This appeal to their cupidity interested them; a common desire for plunder would be the strongest inducement to unite against the whites.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Savage was now fully aware that he had been defeated at this impromptu council he had himself organized, and at once withdrew to prepare for the hostilities he was sure would soon follow.  As soon as the Indians dispersed, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>These occurrences were narrated to me by Savage.  The incidents of the council at the Fresno Station were given during the familiar conversations of our intimate acquaintanceship.  The Indian speeches here quoted are like all others of their kind, really but poor imitations.  The Indian is very figurative in his language.  If a literal translation were attempted his speeches would seem so disjointed and inverted in their methods of expression, that their signification could scarcely be understood; hence only the substance is here given.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The reports from Savage were considered by the miners and settlers as absurd.  It was generally known that mountain men of Savage's class were inclined to adopt the vagaries and superstitions of the Indians with whom they were associated; and therefore but little attention was given to the trader's warnings.  It was believed that he had listened to the blatant palaver of a few vagabond "Digger Indians," and that the threatened hostilities were only a quarrel between Savage and his Indian miners, or with some of his Indian associates.  Cassady, a rival trader, especially scoffed at the idea of danger, and took no precautions to guard himself or establishment.  The settlers of Indian Gulch and Quartzberg were, however, soon after startled by a report brought by one of Savage's men called "Long-haired Brown," that the traders' store on the Fresno had been robbed, and all connected with it killed except himself.  Brown had been warned by an Indian he had favored, known as Polonio-Arosa, but notwithstanding this aid, he had to take the chances of a vigorous pursuit.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Brown was a large man of great strength and activity, and as he said, had dodged their arrows and distanced his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6b</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The arm of the wounded man was amputated by Dr. Lewis Leach, of St. Louis, Mo., an immigrant who had but just come in over the same route.  The name of the wounded man was Frank W. Boden.  He stated that his party--four men, I believe, besides himself--had halted at the "Four Creeks" to rest and graze their horses, and while there a band of Indians (Ka-we-ahs) came down from their village <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7a</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>"Riding back, I saw the house near which I had left my comrades was surrounded by yelling demons.  I was discovered by them at the same instant, and some of them dashed toward me.  Seeing no possibility of joining my party, I turned and struck my horse with the spurs, but before I could get beyond range of their arrows, I felt a benumbing sensation in my arm, which dropped powerless.  Seeing that my arm was shattered or broken, I thought I would give them one shot at least before I fell into their hands.  Checking my horse with some difficulty, I turned so as to rest my rifle across my broken arm, and took sight on the nearest of my pursuers, who halted at the same time."</P>
135.sgm:<P>At this point in his story the hardy adventurer remarked with a twinkle of satisfaction in his bright, keen eye: "I never took better aim in my life.  That Indian died suddenly.  Another dash was made for me.  My horse did not now need the spurs, he seemed to be aware that we must leave that locality as soon as possible, and speedily distanced them all.  As soon as the first excitement was over I suffered excrutiating pain in my arm.  My rifle being useless to me, I broke it against a tree and threw it away.  I then took the bridle rein in my teeth and carried the broken arm in my other hand."</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The party that went out to the place of attack--Dr. Thomas Payn's, now Visalia, named for Nat. Vice, an acquaintance of the writer--found there the mangled bodies of Boden's four companions.  One of these, it was shown by unmistakable evidence, had been skinned by the merciless fiends while yet alive.</P>
135.sgm:<P>These men had doubtless made a stout resistance.  Like brave men they had fought for their lives, and caused, no doubt, a heavy loss to their assailants.  This, with their refusal to comply with the demand for tribute, was the motive for such wolfish barbarity.</P>
135.sgm:<P>It now became necessary that some prompt action should be taken for general protection.  Rumors of other depredadations and murders alarmed the inhabitants of Mariposa county.  Authentic statements of these events were at once forwarded to Governor John McDougall, by the sheriff and other officials, and citizens, urging the immediate adoption of some measures on the part of the State for the defense of the people.  Raids upon the miners' camps and the "Ranch" of the settlers had become so frequent that on its being rumored that the Indians were concentrating for more extensive operations, a party, without waiting for any official authority, collected and started out to check the ravages of the marauders that were found gathering among the foothills.  With but limited supplies, and almost without organization, this party made a rapid and toilsome march among the densely wooded mountains in pursuit of the savages, who, upon report of our movements, were now retreating.  This party came up with the Indians at a point high up on the Fresno.  In the skirmish which followed a Lt. Skeane was killed, William Little was seriously wounded and some others slightly injured.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This engagement, which occurred on January 11th, 1851, was not a very satisfactory one to the whites.  The necessity of a more efficient organization was shown.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Some of the party returned to the settlements for supplies and reinforcements, taking with them the wounded.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Those who remained, reorganized, and leisurely followed the Indians to near the North Fork of the San Joaquin river, where they had encamped on a round rugged mountain covered with a dense undergrowth--oaks and digger pine.  Here, protected by the sheltering rocks and trees, they defiantly taunted the whites with cowardice and their late defeat.  They boasted of their robberies and murders, and called upon Savage to come out where he could be killed.  In every possible manner they expressed their contempt.  Savage--who had joined the expedition--became very much exasperated, and at first favored an immediate assault, but wiser counsels prevailed, and by Captain Boling's prudent advice, Savage kept himself in reserve, knowing that he would be an especial mark, and as Boling had said, his knowledge of the Indians and their territory could not very well be dispensed with.  This course did not please all, and, as might have been expected, then and afterwards disparaging remarks were made.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The leaders in exciting hostilities against the whites were Jose Juarez and Jose Rey.  The bands collected on this mountain were under the leadership of Jose Rey, who was also known by his English name of "King Joseph."  The tribes represented were the Chow-chilla, Chook-chan-cie, Noot-chu, Ho-nah-chee, Po-to-en-cie, Po-ho-no-chee, Kah-we-ah and Yosemite.  The number of fighting men or warriors was estimated at about 500, while that of the whites did not exceed 100.</P>
135.sgm:<P>It was late in the day when the Indians were discovered.  A general council was held, and it was decided that no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8b</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The scouting party was not noticed until on its return, when it was followed back to camp by the Indians, where during nearly the whole night their derisive shouts and menaces in broken Spanish and <HI REND="italics">native American</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The plan was that an attack should be undertaken at daylight, and that an effort should be made to set fire to the village, preliminary to the general assault.  This plan was strongly advocated by the more experienced ones who had seen service in Mexico and in Indian warfare.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Kuy-ken-dall, Doss and Chandler, "as brave men as ever grew," seemed to vie with each other for the leadership, and at starting Kuy-ken-dall seemed to be in command, but when the assault was made, Chandler's <HI REND="italics">elan</HI>
135.sgm: carried him ahead of all, and he thus became the <HI REND="italics">leader</HI>
135.sgm:<P>But thirty-six men were detached for the preliminary service.  Everything being arranged the attacking party started before daylight.  The Indians had but a little while before ceased their annoyances around the camp.  The reserve under Savage and Boling were to follow more leisurely.  Kuy-ken-dall's command reached the Indian camp without being discovered.  Without the least delay the men dashed in and with brands from the camp fires, set the wigwams burning, and at the same time madly attacked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9a</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The savages turned and fled down the mountain, answering back the shout of Chandler to charge by replying, "Chargee!"  "Chargee!" as they disappeared.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The whole camp was routed, and sought safety among the rocks and brush, and by flight.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This was an unexpected result.  The whole transaction had been so quickly and recklessly done that the reserve under Boling and Savage had no opportunity to participate in the assault, and but imperfectly witnessed the scattering of the terrified warriors.  Kuy-ken-dall, especially, displayed a coolness and valor entitling him to command, though outrun by Chandler in the assault.  The fire from the burning village spread so rapidly down the mountain side toward our camp as to endanger its safety.  While the whites were saving their camp supplies, the Indians under cover of the smoke escaped.  No prisoners were taken; twenty-three were killed; the number wounded was never known.  Of the settlers, but one was really wounded, though several were scorched and bruised in the fight.  None were killed.  The scattering flight of the Indians made a further pursuit uncertain.  The supplies were too limited for an extended chase; and as none had reached the little army from those who had returned, and time would be lost in waiting, it was decided to return to the settlements before taking any other active measures.  The return was accomplished without interruption.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>The Governor of California issues a Proclamation--Formation of the Mariposa Battalion--The Origin and Cause of the War--New Material Public Documents--A Discussion--Capt. Walker--The Peace Commissioners' Parley and the Indians' Pow-wow--The Mysterious Deep Valley--Forward, March!</P>
135.sgm:<P>THE State authorities had in the meantime become aroused.  The reports of Indian depredations multiplied, and a general uprising was for a time threatened.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Proclamations were therefore issued by Gov. McDougal, calling for volunteers, to prevent further outrages and to punish the marauders.  Our impromptu organization formed the nucleus of the volunteer force in Mariposa county, as a large majority of the men at once enlisted.  Another battalion was organized for the region of Los Angelos.  Our new organization, when full, numbered two hundred mounted men.  This was accomplished in time, by Major Savage riding over to the San Joaquin, and bringing back men from Cassady's Bar.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The date from which we were regularly mustered into the service was January 24th, 1851.  The volunteers provided their own horses and equipments.  The camp supplies and baggage trains were furnished by the State.  This military force was called into existence by the State authorities, but by act of Congress its maintenance was at the expense of the general government, under direction of Indian commissioners.  Major Ben McCullough was offered the command of this battalion, but he declined it.  This position was urged upon him with the supposition that if he accepted it the men who had once served under him would be induced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Major McCullough was at that time employed as Collector of "Foreign Miners' Tax," a very lucrative office.  As a personal acquaintance, he stated to me that the position was not one that would bring him honor or pecuniary advantages.  That he had no desire to leave a good position, except for one more profitable.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The officers, chosen by the men, recommended to and commissioned by Governor McDougall, were James D. Savage, as Major; John J. Kuy-ken-dall, John Boling, and William Dill, as Captains; M. B. Lewis, as Adjutant; John I. Scott, Reuben T. Chandler, and Hugh W. Farrell, as First Lieutentants; Robert E. Russell, as Sergeant Major; Dr. A. Bronson, as Surgeon, and Drs. Pfifer and Black as Assistant Surgeons.  A few changes of Lieutenants and subordinate officers were afterward made.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Upon the resignation of Surgeon Bronson, Dr. Lewis Leach, was appointed to fill the vacancy.</P>
135.sgm:<P>While writing up these recollections, in order to verify my dates, which I knew were not always chronologically exact, I addressed letters to the State departments of California making inquiries relative to the "Mariposa Battalion," organized in 1851.  In answer to my inquiry concerning these known facts, the following was received from Adj. General L. H. Foot.  He says:  "The records of this office, both written and printed, are so incomplete, that I am not aware from consulting them that the organization to which you allude had existence."  It is a matter of regret that the history of the early settlement of California is, to so great an extent, traditionary, without public records of many important events.  It is not deemed just that the faithful services of the "Mariposa Battalion," should be forgotten with the fading memory of the pioneers of that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10b</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Until the publication of Mr. J. M. Hutching's book, "In The Heart of the Sierras, Yo-Semite, Big Trees, etc.," which contains valuable public documents, the author of "Discovery of The Yosemite" was, as stated on page 30, unable to obtain any official records concerning the operations of the Mariposa battalion, or of the events which preceded and caused the Indian War of 1851.  Now that Mr. Hutching's persistent industry has brought light from darkness, I interrupt my narrative to make clear the origin of the war, and to justify the early Pioneers engaged in it.  As a sample, also, of many obstructions encountered, I insert a few extracts from letters relating to the "Date of Discovery," furnished the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The attack made upon Savage on the Merced river in 1850, had for its object plunder and intimidation, and as an invasion of Ten-ie-ya's territory was no longer threatened after the removal of Mr. Savage to the Mariposa, the Yo Semities contented themselves with the theft of horses and clothing, but a general war was still impending, as may be seen by reference to page 31 of "In The Heart of The Sierras," where appears:  Report of Col. Adam Johnston, a special agent, to Gov. Peter H. Burnett, upon his return from Mariposa county to San Jose, then the Capital of California, and which I here present:  San Jose, January 2, 1851.  Sir:  I have the honor to submit to you, as the executive of the State of California, some facts connected with the recent depredations committed by the Indians, within the bounds of the State, upon the persons and property of her citizens.  The immediate scene of their hostile movements are at and in the vicinity of the Mariposa and Fresno.  The Indians in that portion of your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11a</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The manner of their leaving, in the night, and by stealth, induced Mr. Savage to believe that whatever act they had committed or intended to commit, might be connected with himself.  Believing that he could overhaul his Indians before others could join them, and defeat any contemplated depredations on their part, he, with sixteen men, started in pursuit.  He continued upon their traces for about thirty miles, when he came upon their encampment.  The Indians had discovered his approach, and fled to an adjacent mountain, leaving behind them two small boys asleep, and the remains of an aged female, who had died, no doubt from fatigue.  Near to the encampment Mr. Savage ascended a mountain in pursuit of the Indians, from which he discovered them upon another mountain at a distance.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Savage and company arrived at his camp in the night of Thursday in safety.  In the mean time, as news had reached us of murders committed on the Fresno, we had determined to proceed to the Fresno, where the men had been murdered.  Accordingly on the day following, Friday, the 20th, I left the Mariposa camp with thirty-five men, for the camp on the Fresno, to see the situation of things there, and to bury the dead.  I also dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, and several other mining sections, hoping to concentrate a sufficient force on the Fresno to pursue the Indians into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Under this state of things, I come here at the earnest solicitations of the people of that region, to ask such aid from the state government as will enable them to protect their persons and property.  I submit these facts for your consideration, and have the honor to remain,</P>
135.sgm:<P>Yours very respectfully,</P>
135.sgm:<P>ADAM JOHNSTON</P>
135.sgm:<P>To his excellency Peter H. Burnett.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The report of Col. Johnston to Gov. Burnett had the desired result, for immediately after inauguration, his successor, Gov. McDougal, on January 13, 1851, issued a proclamation calling for one hundred volunteers, and this number by a subsequent order dated January 24th, 1851, after receipt of Sheriff James Burney's report, bearing the same date of the governor's first call for one hundred men, was increased to "two hundred able bodied men, under officers of their own selection."</P>
135.sgm:<P>To insure a prompt suppression of hostilities, or a vigorous prosecution of the war, on January 25th, 1851, Gov. McDougal appointed Col. J. Neely Johnson of his staff a special envoy to visit Mariposa county, and in an emergency, to call out additional forces if required, and do whatever seemed best for the interests and safety of the people endangered.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Col. Adam Johnston, before leaving for San Jose, had, as he reported, "dispatched couriers to Agua Fria, Mariposa, and several other mining sections, hoping to concentrate a sufficient force on the Fresno to pursue the Indians into the mountains.  Several small companies of men left their respective places of residence to join us, but being unacquainted with the country they were unable to meet us."</P>
135.sgm:<P>The same apparent difficulties beset Sheriff Burney, as he was able to collect but seventy-four men, but want of knowledge of the country was not the sole cause of delay.  The Indians of the mountains at that time having been accustomed to the occupation for many years of despoiling the Californians, were the most expert bare back riders and horse thieves in the world, and when many of us who had horses and mules herding in the valley ranches of the foot-hills and Merced bottoms, sent for them to carry us into the distant mountains of the Fresno, where we had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>It will appear by the letter of Major Burney that "The different squads from the various places rendezvoused not far from this place (Agua Fria), on Monday, 6th, and numbered but seventy-four men."  I was at Shirlock's Creek on the night before, Jan. 5th, 1851, and had promised to join the Major in the morning; but when the morning came, my animals were gone, stolen by Indians from my Mexican herdman.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. C. H. Spencer had sent his servant "Jimmy," to Snelling's ranche, on the Merced River, for his animals, and after a delay of perhaps two or three days, they were brought up for use.  Mr. Spencer kindly loaned me a mule for temporary use, but upon his having his saddle mule stolen a few nights after, I gave back his mule and bought a fine one of Thos. J. Whitlock, for whom Whitlock's Creek was named.  I had previously been able to start with a small squad on the trail of Major Burney and his brave men, but met some of them returning after the fight, among whom I remember, were Wm. Little, shot through the lungs, but who finally recovered, a Mr. Smith, known as "Yankee Smith," sick, as he said, "from a bare-footed fool exposure in the snow," and Dr. Phifer, who had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The different accounts I received from the men engaged in the fight, were so conflicting, that in referring to it in previous editions, on page 25, I could only say that it "was not a very satisfactory one to the whites."  I could only state the general impression received from Mr. Little's account, which was that the men had been unnecessarily exposed to cold and danger, and that only by the dash and bravery of the officers and men engaged in the affair were they able to withdraw into a place of temporary safety, until joined by re-inforcements.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Indian fighting was new to most of the men engaged, and, like the soldiers on both sides at the outbreak of the Rebellion, they had been led to expect a too easy victory.</P>
135.sgm:<P>But we have now the report of Major Burney to Gov. McDougal, and also a letter from Mr. Theodore G. Palmer, of Newark, New Jersey, to his father, written five days after the battle, and which has been kindly placed at my disposal.  Military men will readily perceive and enjoy the entire artlessness and intended truthfulness of Mr. Palmer's letter, as well as his modest bravery.  The two letters read in connection with that of Col. Adam Johnston, are most valuable in fixing dates and locations for any one with a knowledge of the topography of the country, and of the events they narrate.  They set at rest forever the absurd claim that the first battle of the Indian War of 1851 was fought in the Yosemite valley, for the battle was fought on a mountain.  Mr. Hutchings, to whose industry so much is due, has strangely overlooked the fact, that the reference to "Monday 6th," in Major Burney's letter, could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:only have reference to Monday, January 6th, 1851, the month in which the letter was written, and not to December, 1850, as given by Mr. Hutchings, in brackets.  The 6th of December, 1850 occurred on a Friday; on Tuesday, December 17, 1850, the three men were killed on the Fresno river station of James D. Savage; on Friday, December 20th, 1850, they were buried; on Monday, January 6th, 1851, Major Burney, sheriff of Mariposa County, assembled a strong <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
135.sgm: to go in pursuit of the Indian murderers, and coming up with them on a mountain stronghold on Jan. 11th, 1851, destroyed their villages, and then retreated <HI REND="italics">down</HI>
135.sgm: the mountain some four miles to <HI REND="italics">a plain</HI>
135.sgm:<P>MAJOR BURNEY'S LETTER TO GOV. MCDOUGAL.</P>
135.sgm:<P>AGUA FRIA, January 13, 1851.</P>
135.sgm:<P>SIR:  Your Excellency has doubtlessly been informed by Mr. Johnston and others, of repeated and aggravated depredations of the Indians in this part of the State.  Their more recent outrages you are probably not aware of.  Since the departure of Mr. Johnston, the Indian agent, they have killed a portion of the citizens on the head of the San Joaquin river, driven the balance off, taken away all movable property, and destroyed all they could not take away.  They have invariably murdered and robbed all the small parties they fell in with between here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>In order to show your Excellency that the people have done all that they can do to suppress these things, to secure quiet and safety in the possession of our property and lives, I will make a brief statement of what has been done here.</P>
135.sgm:<P>After the massacres on the Fresno, San Joaquin, etc., we endeavored to raise a volunteer company to drive the Indians back, if not to take them or force them into measures.  The different squads from the various places rendezvoused not far from this place on Monday, 6th, and numbered but seventy-four men.  A company was formed, and I was elected captain; J. W. Riley, first lieutenant; E. Skeane, second lieutenant.  We had but eight day's provisions, and not enough animals to pack our provisions and blankets, as it should have been done.  We, however, marched, and on the following day struck a large trail of horses that had been stolen by the Indians.  I sent forward James D. Savage with a small spy force, and I followed the trail with my company.  About two o'clock in the morning, Savage came in and reported the village near, as he had heard the Indians singing.  Here I halted, left a small guard with my animals, and went forward with the balance of my men.  We reached the village just before day, and at dawn, but before there was light enough to see how to fire our rifles with accuracy, we were discovered by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>We killed from forty to fifty, but cannot exactly tell how many, as they took off all they could get to.  Twenty-six were killed in and around the village, and a number of others in the chaparrel.  We burned the village and provisions, and took four horses.  Our loss was six wounded, two mortally; one of the latter was Lieutenant Skeane, the other a Mr. Little, whose bravery and conduct through the battle cannot be spoken of too highly.  We made litters, on which we conveyed our wounded, and had to march four miles down the mountain, to a suitable place to camp, the Indians firing at us all the way, from peaks on either side, but so far off as to do little damage.  My men had been marching or fighting from the morning of the day before, without sleep, and with but little to eat.  On the plain, at the foot of the mountain, we made a rude, but substantial fortification; and at a late hour those who were not on guard, were permitted to sleep.  Our sentinels were (as I anticipated they would be) firing at the Indians occasionally all night, but I had ordered them not to come in until they were driven in.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I left my wounded men there, with enough of my company to defend the little fort, and returned to this place for provisions and recruits.  I send them to-day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>If Your Excellency thinks proper to authorize me or any other person to keep this company together, we can force them into measures in a short time.  But if not authorized and commissioned to do so, and furnished with some arms and provisions, or the means to buy them, and pay for the services of the men, my company must be disbanded, as they are not able to lose so much time without any compensation.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</P>
135.sgm:<P>JAMES BURNEY.</P>
135.sgm:<P>In a subsequent letter of Major Burney, addressed to Hon. W. J. Howard, occurs the following passage:</P>
135.sgm:<P>"The first night out you came into my camp and reported that the Indians had stolen all your horses and mules--a very large number; that you had followed their trail into the hill country, but, deeming it imprudent to go there alone, had turned northward, hoping to strike my trail, having heard that I had gone out after Indians.  I immediately, at sunset, sent ten men (yourself among the number) under Lieutenant Skeane--who was killed in the fight next day--to look out for the trail, and report, which was very promptly carried out."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Page 35, "In Heart of S. and Legislative Journal" for 1851, page 600.</P>
135.sgm:<P>It is only required of me to say here that re-inforced by such leaders of men as Kuykendall, Boling, Chandler and Doss, there was no delay, and the campaign was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I now introduce a letter of great value, to me, as it fixes the date of the first battle, and disproves assertions made in the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>HART'S RANCH, CALIFORNIA, JANUARY 16th, 1851.</P>
135.sgm:<P>MY DEAR FATHER:  When I wrote my last letter to you I had fully determined to take a Ranch near Pacheco's Pass, as I informed you, but before three days had passed the report of Jim Kennedy's murder on the Fresno was confirmed, and I started for the mountains in pursuit of the Indians who were committing depredations all through the country and had sworn to kill every white man in it.  Four hundred men had promised to go, but at the appointed time only seventy-seven made their appearance.  With these we started under the command of Major Burney, Sheriff of Mariposa County, guided by Mr. Jas. D. Savage, who is without doubt the best man in the world for hunting them out.</P>
135.sgm:<P>From his long acquaintance with the Indians, Mr. Savage has learned their ways so thoroughly that they cannot deceive him.  He has been one of their greatest chiefs, and speaks their language as well as they can themselves.  No dog can follow a trail like he can.  No horse endure half so much.  He sleeps but little, can go days without food, and can run a hundred miles in a day and night over the mountains and then sit and laugh for hours over a camp-fire as fresh and lively as if he had just been taking a little walk for exercise.</P>
135.sgm:<P>With him for a guide we felt little fear of not being able to find them.</P>
135.sgm:<P>On Friday morning about ten o'clock, our camp again moved forward and kept traveling until one that night, when "halt! we are on the Indians," passed in a whisper down the line.  Every heart beat quicker as we silently unsaddled our animals and tied them to the bushes around us,  Commands were given in whispers and we were formed in a line.  Sixty were chosen for the expedition, the balance remaining behind in charge of camp.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Savage said the Indians were about six miles off; that they were engaged in a feast.  He pointed out their fires, could hear them sing and could smell them, but his eyes were the only ones that could see; his ears alone could hear, and his nose smell anything unusual.  Still, there was such confidence placed in him that not one doubted for an instant that everything was as he said.</P>
135.sgm:<P>About two o'clock we started in Indian file, as still as it was possible for sixty men to move in the dark, for the moon had set.  For three long hours did we walk slowly and cautiously over the rocks and bushes, through the deepest ravines and up steep and ragged mountain, until within a half mile of the enemy.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Here every one took off his boots, when we again pushed forward to about two hundred yards from the camp.  Another halt was called to wait for daylight, while Savage went forward to reconnoitre.  He succeeded in getting within ten paces of the Rancharia, and listened to a conversation among them in which his name was frequently mentioned.  He found that it was a town of the Kee-chees, but that there were about one hundred and fifty of the Chow-chil la warriors with them and several of the Chuc-chan-ces.  Had he found only the Kee-chees as he expected, we were to surround the Rancharia and take all prisoners, but the presence of so many Chow-chil-las, the most warlike tribe in California, made a change of plan necessary.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Daylight by this time began to appear.  We had been lying in our stocking-feet on the ground on the top of a mountain within a few paces of the snow for more than an hour, almost frozen by the intense cold, not daring to move or speak a word.</P>
135.sgm:<P>It was not yet light enough to see the sight of our rifles, when an Indian's head was seen rising on the hill before us.  For a moment his eyes wandered, then rested on us, and with a yell like a Coyote he turned for the Rancharia.  Never did I hear before such an infernal howling, whooping and yelling, as saluted us then from the throats of about six hundred savages, as they rushed down the hill into the gim-o-sell bushes below.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Our huzzahs could, however, hardly have sounded more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Burney and Mr. Savage were on top of the hill using every exertion to make the company halt and form.  He had partly succeeded, when a pistol ball struck a man in the face, he fell, but raising himself up said, "if we stay here we will be all shot" and a break was made for the trees.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Still some few remained in rank and others slowly answered to the orders to form, when our Second Lieutenant fell mortally wounded.  He was carried off, and every man took his tree.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The Indians had again possession of their Rancharia, and of a slight eminence to the left, and were sending showers of bullets and arrows upon us from three sides.  These two points had to be gained even if it cost half our men.  Leaving then, enough to guard our present position, the rest of us charged on the hill, took it, stormed the Rancharia, took and burnt it, and returned to our former position with only one man wounded, Wm, Little, shot through the lungs.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The close fighting was now over, for we could not give chase and were forced to lie behind trees and rocks and pick out such as exposed themselves.  It was about half past ten when, finding it useless to remain longer, litters were made for the wounded and we started for camp.  Then again we had warm work, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>In our march back, the rear guard was kept at work about as hard as at any time during the morning, but not a single man was hurt, and only one mule was killed.</P>
135.sgm:<P>We moved our camp that night, six miles lower down, where we laid the foundations of a fort and left thirty men to guard it and take care of the wounded.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The rest of us started below the next morning, after burying Lieutenant Skeane, who died in the night.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The Indians acknowledged to eleven men killed, though fifty killed and wounded would be a moderate estimate.  Our loss was seven wounded--two mortally (as we then supposed, but Mr. Little finally recovered.--AUTHOR.)</P>
135.sgm:<P>The force of the Savages consisted of, as near as could be ascertained, four hundred warriors.  We burned a hundred wig-wams, several tons of dried horse and mule meat, a great number of bows and arrows, and took six mules.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Several amusing incidents occured during the fight and others of the most heroic bravery on the part of the Indians.  One old squaw was wounded accidentally at the first charge, and was unable to get off.  One of our men was going to finish her with his knife, but seeing it was a woman he left her.  No sooner had he gone than she picked up a bow and lodged three arrows in another man.  I believe she was not touched after that.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The whole body of Indians seemed bent on killing Mr. Savage, partly because he would not be their chief and lead them against the whites, and partly because he was, they knew, our greatest dependence as guide, and their particular dread.  To kill him, many of them sacrificed their own lives.  They would come one at a time and, standing in open ground, send arrows at him until shot down; and one old chief who used to cook for Savage, would ask him after every shot where he had hit him.  They would talk to him to find out where he was, and as soon as he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>A large party has started on a second expedition, but I believe I am perfectly satisfied with Indian fighting.</P>
135.sgm:<P>T. G. PALMER.</P>
135.sgm:<P>NOTE.--It will have been observed that especial reference has twice been made to Gim-o-sell brush, a shrub that grows only on warm slatey soil, on Southern exposures, sought by Indians for winter quarters, and not on the granite cliffs and mountains of the Yosemite.  I had not thought it necessary to draw upon nature for testimony, but a new generation has sprung into existence, and the eternal hills may speak to them.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The mining camp or village of Agua Fria, at the date of the organization of the battalion, was the county seat of Mariposa County, and the residence of the Sheriff, Major James Burney.  Whittier's Hotel was the headquarters for enlistment.  Finding the number called for incomplete, while yet in daily expectation of the arrival of the mustering officer, James D. Savage made a rapid ride to the San Joaquin diggings, and returned with men enough to complete the organization.</P>
135.sgm:<P>We were formally reported for duty, and went into camp about two miles below Agua Fria, on about the 10th of Feb., 1851, but when mustered in, the rolls were dated to include service from Jan. 24th, 1851, the date of the last order of enlistment.  An informal ballot was taken to show the preference of the men for officers to command us, Major Burney having previously declined, and when that had been demonstrated, other aspirants were withdrawn by their friends, a formal ballot was taken and a regular organization of three companies completed.  The Governor was duly notified of our proceedings, and in a few days the commissions were received by our respective officers.</P>
135.sgm:<P>After a few days in camp on Agua Fria Creek, we moved down to a camp in the foot hills, known afterwards as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>After instructions were given us by Col. Johnson, and the Commission had exhausted its eloquence upon the "Children of the Great Father at Washington," and had started for the Fresno, we were allowed to go in pursuit of some very sly marauders who had stolen into our camp in the night, loosened and run off some of our animals, and taken some others herded in the foot hills, but no extended operations were allowed, as Major Savage ordered us to be in readiness for a campaign against the Yosemities, when the first big storm should come, that would prevent their escape across the Sierra Nevada.  After a few days' delay the storm did come with continued violence, as recorded.</P>
135.sgm:<P>In view of the facts and dates here given, how absurd the statement that we did not go to the Yosemite "until about the 5th or 6th of May, 1851."  Our idleness in camp from Feb. 10th and the patient indulgence of the Commissioners, while waiting for the results of our first operations, surpass belief.</P>
135.sgm:<P>And now I reluctantly notice an error of statement by Mr. Julius N. Pratt in the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Had the usual courtesy been extended of allowing me to see and answer Mr. Pratt's erroneous impressions in the same number, I am convinced that he would have kindly withdrawn his article.  I am led to this belief, not alone from letters received, but from the <HI REND="italics">internal evidence</HI>
135.sgm: of an upright character conveyed by Mr. Pratt's graphic account of "A Trip to California by way of Panama in 1849," in the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm: Magazine is a most powerful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>In the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Knowing that Mr. Theodore G. Palmer, of Newark, New Jersey, was in the only engagement occurring with Indians in Mariposa county at the time given by Mr. Pratt as the date of his supposed discovery of the Yosemite, I wrote, requesting Mr. Palmer to call on the editor of the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>In a letter of January 9th, 1891, Mr. Palmer wrote: "It is the unexpected which always happens, and your communication to the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>"I so completely satisfied him that Mr. Pratt is in error, that he requested me to express my reasons in the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>On January 24th, 1891, Mr. R. W. Johnson, associate editor, wrote me, saying: "Since telling your friend, Mr. Palmer, that we had not received an article from you in reply to Mr. Pratt, we have discovered the manuscript.  We have in type a short note from Mr. Palmer which will be acceptable to you."</P>
135.sgm:<P>A few days after Mr. Johnson kindly sent me the proof.  On March 12th, 1891, Mr. Johnson wrote me: "Mr. Pratt, after examination of the subject, has written us a short letter, withdrawing his contention of your claim to the discovery of the Yosemite, the publication of which we trust will be satisfactory to you and also to Mr. Palmer.  Will you now tell us whether there is anything in this new claim that Walker was the discoverer of the Valley?"</P>
135.sgm:<P>I at once saw that if Mr. Pratt's retraction was published there would be no need of the publication of Mr. Palmer's communication.  About this time a letter of earlier date, January 28, 1891, was sent me by Mr. Palmer, received from Mr. Pratt, in which the latter gentleman says: "I enclose a letter which seems to prove that the party about which I wrote to the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Palmer now felt that his note to <HI REND="italics">The Century</HI>
135.sgm: was too long delayed, and wrote asking for its withdrawal or its publication.  Mr. R. U. Johnson replied: " <HI REND="italics">The Century</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The matter had now become not only interesting, but amusing to me; for very soon Mr. Palmer wrote, "whether my answer to Pratt will be published or not, is doubtful. I infer (from a letter) that Pratt will not rest quiescent under my contradiction."  Again Mr. Palmer wrote, enclosing copy of letter to Mr. Johnson of March 14th, 1891, answering Mr. Johnson's Statement, "that Mr. Pratt, while being convinced of his injustice to Dr. Bunnell and being ready himself to withdraw his former statement, takes issue with you as to the identity of the two parties," and then Mr. Johnson asks, "would it not be just as well and more effective if we were simply to print from Mr. Pratt that he is `pleased to withdraw all contention of the claim made by Dr. Bunnell that he was the original discoverer?'"  Let me here say, in passing, that I never made such a claim.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Palmer very properly objects to becoming the "scapegoat" for me or any one else, and replying to Mr. Johnson, says: "Whether my letter is printed or not, is a matter of entire indifference to me, (personally) ** it was only at your desire, and to please Dr. Bunnell, that I wrote the little I did.  I left you under the impression that you desired to get at the exact facts and would be glad to rectify the injustice done to the doctor by the publication of Mr. Pratt's communication. *** I believe that the publication of my letter would not only gratify him, but also place the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Palmer could say no more, but to his great chagrin, but not surprise, on March 17th, he received a letter of <HI REND="italics">thanks</HI>
135.sgm: from the associate editor of the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:, in which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:Mr. Johnson says: "Please accept our thanks for your letter of the 14th, and for your obliging attitude in the matter."  Whether any retraction from Mr. Pratt will ever appear in the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm: is now, in view of the long delay, a matter of great indifference to me.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">Mr. Pratt's retraction has finally appeared in the June number for 1891.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>Now a few facts in regard to the Discovery of the Yosemite Valley by Capt. Joseph Reddeford Walker, for whom Walker's river, Lake and Pass were named.  It is not a new claim, as supposed by Mr. R. U. Johnson, but appears in the <HI REND="italics">Peoples Encyclop&oelig;dia</HI>
135.sgm: and was set up in the <HI REND="italics">San Jose Pioneer</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I cheerfully concede the fact set forth in the <HI REND="italics">Pioneer</HI>
135.sgm: article that, " <HI REND="italics">His were the first white man's eyes that ever looked upon the Yosemite" above</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The topography of the country over which the Mono trail ran, and which was followed by Capt. Walker, did not admit of his seeing the valley proper.  The depression indicating the valley, and its magnificent surroundings, could alone have been discovered, and in Capt. Walker's conversations with me at various times while encamped between Coultersville and the Yosemite, he was manly enough to say so.  Upon one occaision I told Capt. Walker that Ten-ie-ya had said that, "A small party of white men once crossed the mountains on th north side, but were so guided  as not to see the valley proper."  With a smile the Captain said: "That was my party, but I was not deceived, for the lay of the land showed there was a valley below; but we had become nearly bare-footed, our animals poor, and ourselves on the verge of starvation, so we followed down the ridge to Bull Creek, where, killing a deer, we went into camp."</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The captain remained at his camp near Coultersville for some weeks, and disappeared as suddenly as he came.  He once expressed a desire to re-visit the region of the Yosemite in company with me, but could fix no date, as he told me he was in daily expectation of a government appointment as guide, which I learned was finally given him.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Walker was a very eccentric man, well versed in the vocal and sign languages of the Indians, and went at his will among them.  He may have visited the Yosemite from his camp before leaving.  I was strongly impressed by the simple and upright character of Captain Walker, and his mountain comrades spoke in the highest praise of his ability.  Fremont, Kit Carson, Bill Williams, Alex Gody, Vincenthaler (not Vincent Haler, as erroneously appeared in the March number of the <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Rev. D. D. Chapin, of Maysville, Kentucky, formerly rector of Trinity Church, San Jose, and of St. Peter's Church, San Francisco, as well as editor of <HI REND="italics">Pacific Churchman</HI>
135.sgm:, kindly called my attention to a seeming neglect of the claim for Captain Walker as the discoverer of the Yosemite.  All that I have ever claimed for myself is, that I was <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
135.sgm: of the party of white men who first <HI REND="italics">entered</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The fact of my naming the valley cannot be disputed.  The existence of some terribly yawning abyss in the mountains, guarded at its entrance by a frightful "Rock Chief," from whose head rocks would be hurled down upon us if we attempted to enter that resort of demons, was frequently described to us by crafty or superstitious Indians.  Hence the greater our surprise upon first beholding a fit abode for angels of light.  As for myself, I freely confess that my feelings of hostility against the Indians were overcome by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The Mariposa Battalion, was assigned by Governor McDougall to the duty of keeping in subjection the Indian tribes on the east side of the San Joaquin and Tulare valleys, from the Tuolumne river to the Te-hon Pass.  As soon as the battalion was organized, Major Savage began his preparations for an expedition.  There was but little delay in fitting out.  Scouting parties were sent out, but with no other effect than to cause a general retreat of the Indians to the mountains, and a cessation of hostilities, except the annoyances from the small bands of thieving marauders.  No Indians were overtaken by those detachments, though they were often seen provokingly near.  When about to start on a more extended expedition to the mountains, Major Savage received an order from the Governor to suspend hostile operations until he should receive further instructions.  We learned at about the same time through the newspapers, as well as from the Governor's messenger, that the United States Commissioners had arrived in San Francisco.  Their arrival had for some time been expected.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Up to this period the Indian affairs of California had not been officially administered upon.  Public officers had not before been appointed to look after the vast landed estates of the aboriginal proprietors of this territory, and to provide for their heirs.  After some delay, the commissioners arrived at our camp, which was located about fifteen miles below Mariposa village.  Here the grazing was most excellent, and for that reason they temporarily established their head-quarters.  These officials were Colonels Barbour and McKee, and Dr. Woozencroft.  They were accompanied by Col. Neely Johnson, the Governor's aid, and by a small detachment of regulars.  The commissioners at once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The so-called Mission Indians were members of different tribes who had been instructed in the belief of the Catholic Church, at the old Spanish Missions.  These Indians had not generally taken part in the war against the white settlers, although some of them, with the hostiles, were the most treacherous of their race, having required the vices and none of the virtues of their white instructors.</P>
135.sgm:<P>During this period of preliminaries a few Indians ventured in to have a talk with the commissioners.  They were very shy and suspicious, for all had been more or less implicated in the depredations that had been committed.  Presents were lavishly distributed, and assurances were given that all who came in should be supplied with food and clothing and other useful things.  This policy soon became generally known to the Indians.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Among the delegations that visited the comissioners were Vow-ches-ter,<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm: chief of one of the more peaceful bands, and Russio, a Mission Indian from the Tuolumne, but who in former years had belonged to some of the San Joaquin tribes.  These chiefs had always appeared friendly, and had not joined in the hostile attitude assumed by the others.  At the outbreak on the Fresno, Vow-ches-ter had been temporarily forced into hostilities by the powerful influence of Jose Rey, and by his desire to secure protection to his relative, one of Savage's squaws.  But with the fall of Jose Rey, his influence over Vow-ches-ter declined, and he was once more left free to show his friendship for the whites.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">An Indian corruption of Bautista.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>Having been assured of safety, these two chiefs promised to bring in their people and make peace with the whites.  All that came in promised a cessation, on the part of their tribes, of the hostilties begun, for which they were rewarded with presents.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Vow-chester, when questioned, stated "that the mountain tribes would not listen to any terms of peace involving the abandonment of their territory; that in the fight near the North Fork of the San Joaquin, Jose Rey had been badly wounded and probably would die; that his tribe were very angry, and would not make peace."  We had up to this time supposed Jose Rey had been killed at "Battle Mountain."  Russio said: "The Indians in the deep rocky valley on the Merced river do not wish for peace, and will not come in to see the chiefs sent by the great father to make treaties.  They think the white men cannot find their hiding places, and that therefore they cannot be driven out."  The other Indians of the party confirmed Russio's statements.  Vow-chester was the principal spokesman, and he said: "In this deep valley spoken of by Russio, one Indian is more than ten white men.  The hiding places are many.  They will throw rocks down on the white men, if any should come near them.  The other tribes dare not make war upon them, for they are lawless like the grizzlies, and as strong.  We are afraid to go to this valley, for there are many witches there."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Some of us did not consider Vow-chester's promise of friendship as reliable.  We regarded him as one of the hostile mountain Indians.  He, however, was never again <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>No peace messengers came in from the mountain Indians, who continued to annoy the settlers with their depredations, thieving from the miner's camps, and stealing horses and mules from the ranches.  While we were awaiting the action of the commissioners, we lost some horses and mules, which were stolen from the vicinity of our camp.  After <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Colonel Johnson gave us a very excellent little speech; but at that time we were not fully impressed with the justness of the remarks which had been made from kindness of heart and sincerely humane feelings.  Many of us had lost--some heavily--by the depredations of the Indians.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The commissioners selected a reservation on the Fresno, near the foot-hills, about eighteen or twenty miles from our camp, to which the Indian tribes with whom treaties had been made were to be removed, and at this locality the commissioners also established a camp, as head-quarters.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The deliberative action on the part of the commissioners, who were very desirous of having the Indians voluntarily come in to make treaties with them, delayed any active cooperation on the part of our battalion until the winter rains had fully set in.  Our first extended expedition to the mountains was made during the prevailing storms of the vernal equinox, although detachments had previously made excursions into the country bordering upon the Sierras.  This region, like parts of Virginia, proved impassable to a mounted force during the wet season, and our operations were confined to a limited area.</P>
135.sgm:<P>It was at last decided that more extended operations were necessary to bring in the mountain tribes.  Although there was no longer unity of action among them, they refused to leave their retreats, and had become even suspicious of each other.  The defeat of Jose Rey, and the desertion of the tribes who had made, or had promised to make, treaties with the commissioners, and had ceased from all hostile demonstrations, had caused jealousies and discontent to divide even the most turbulent bands.  For the extended <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>We left our camp as quietly and as orderly as such an undisciplined body could be expected to move, but Major Savage said that we must all learn to be as still as Indians, or we would never find them.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This battalion was a body of hardy, resolute pioneers.  Many of them had seen service, and had fought their way against the Indians across the plains; some had served in the war with Mexico and been under military discipline.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Although ununiformed, they were well armed, and their similarities of dress and accoutrements, gave them a general military appearance.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The temperature was mild and agreeable at our camp near the plain, but we began to encounter storms of cold rain as we reached the more elevated localities.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Major Savage being aware that rain on the foot-hills and plain at that season of the year indicated snow higher up, sent forward scouts to intercept such parties as might <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:attempt to escape, but the storm continued to rage with such violence as to render this order useless, and we found the scouts awaiting us at the foot of a mountain known as the Black Ridge.  This ridge is a spur of the Sierra Nevada.  It separates the Mariposa, Chow-chilla, Fresno and San Joaquin rivers on the south from the Merced on the north.  While halting for a rest, and sipping his coffee, Savage expressed an earnest desire to capture the village he had ascertained to be located over the ridge on the south fork of the Merced.  He was of the opinion that if it could be reached without their discovery of us, we should have no fighting to do there, as that band would surrender at once rather than endanger their women and children, who would be unable to escape through the snow.  Toward this village we therefore marched as rapidly as the nature of the steep and snow-obstructed trail would permit us to travel.  An Indian that answered to the name of "Bob, an <HI REND="italics">attache&acute;</HI>
135.sgm:<P>We laboriously followed our guide and file leader, but this trail was so indistinctly seen in the darkness, that at intervals deep mutterings would be heard from some drowsy rider who missed the beaten path.  As we commenced the descent of the ridge, the expressions became more forcible than polite when some unlucky ones found themselves floundering in the snow below the uncertain trail.  If left to their own sagacity, a horse or mule will follow its leader; but if a self-willed rider insists upon his own judgment <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>With short halts and repeated burrowings in the deep, damp snow, the South Fork of the Merced was at length reached about a mile below what is now known as Clark's, or Wah-ha-wo-na, from Wah-ha-wo-na, a Big Tree.  We here made a halt, and our weary animals were provided with some barley, for the snow was here over a foot deep.  The major announced that it was but a short distance below to the Indian village, and called for volunteers to accompany him--it might be for a fight or perhaps only a footrace--circumstances would determine which.  The major's call was promptly and fully answered, although all were much fatigued with the tedious night march.  The animals were left, and a sufficient number was selected to remain as a reserve force and camp guard.  At daylight we filed away on foot to our destination, following the major who was guided by "Bob."</P>
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135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>March Down the South Fork--Capture of an Indian Village--Hungry Men--An able Surgeon--Snow Storms--Visit of Ten-ei-ya, Chief of the Yosemites--Commander's Dilemma--Unique Manner of Extrication--Approaching the Valley--First View--Sensations Experienced--A Lofty Flight Brought Down.</P>
135.sgm:<P>THERE was a very passable trail for horses leading down the right bank of the river, but it was overlooked on the left bank by the Indian village, which was situated on a high point at a curve in the river that commanded an extensive view up and down.  To avoid being seen, the Major led us along down the left bank, where we were compelled, at times, to wade into the rushing torrent to avoid the precipitous and slippery rocks, which, in places, dipped into the stream.  Occasionally, from a stumble, or from the deceptive depths of the clear mountain stream, an unfortunate one was immersed in the icy fluid, which seemed colder than the snow baths of the mountain.  With every precaution, some became victims to these mischances, and gave vent to their emotions, when suddenly immersed, by hoarse curses, which could be heard above the splash and roar of the noisy water.  These men (headed by Surgeon Bronson) chilled and benumbed, were sent back to the camp to "dry their ammunition." (?)  After passing this locality--our march thus far having alternated in snow and water--we arrived, without being discovered, in sight of the smoke of their camp-fires, where we halted for a short rest.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>Major Savage gave some orders to Captain Boling which were not then understood by me.  On again resuming our march, the Major, with "Bob," started at a rapid step, while the others maintained a slow gait.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I followed the Major as I had been accustomed during the march.  I soon heard an <HI REND="italics">audible smile</HI>
135.sgm:, evidently at my expense.  I comprehended that I had somehow "sold" myself, but as the Major said nothing, I continued my march.  I observed a pleased expression in the Major's countenance, and a twinkle of his eyes when he glanced back at me as if he enjoyed the fun of the "boys" behind us, while he increased his speed to an Indian jog-trot.  I determined to appear as unconscious, as innocent of my blunder, and accommodate my gait to his movements.  My pride or vanity was touched, and I kept at his heels as he left the trot for a more rapid motion.  After a run of a mile or more, we reached the top of a narrow ridge which overlooked the village.  The Major here cast a side glace at me as he threw himself on the ground, saying: "I always prided myself on my endurance, but somehow this morning my bottom fails me."  As quietly as I could I remarked that he had probably been traveling faster than he was aware of, as "Bob" must be some way behind us.  After a short scrutiny of my unconcerned innocence, he burst into a low laugh and said: "Bunnell, you play it well, and you have beaten me at a game of my own choosing.  I have tested your endurance, however; such qualifications are really valuable in our present business."  He then told me as I seated myself near him, that he saw I had not understood the order, and had increased his speed, thinking I would drop back and wait for the others to come up, as he did not wish to order me back, although he had preferred to make this scout alone with "Bob," as they were both acquainted with the band and the region they occupy.  While we resting "Bob" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>After obtaining the desired information without being seen, Bob was sent back to Captain Boling to "hurry him up."  While awaiting the arrival of our command, I, in answer to his inquiries, informed the Major that I had come to Detroit, Michigan, in 1833, when it was but little more than a frontier village; that the Indians annually assembled there and at Malden, Canada, to receive their annuities.  At that time, being but nine years of age, and related to Indian traders, I was brought in contact with their customers, and soon learned their language, habits and character, which all subsequent attempts to civilize me had failed entirely to eradicate.  This statement evidently pleased the Major, and finding me familiar with frontier life, he continued his conversation, and I soon learned that I was acquainted with some of his friends in the Northwest.  I have related this incident because it was the beginning of an intimate friendship which ever afterward existed between us.</P>
135.sgm:<P>On the arrival of Captains Boling and Dill with their respective companies, we were deployed into skirmish line, and advanced toward the encampment without any effort at concealment.  On discovering us the Indians hurriedly ran to and fro, as if uncertain what course to pursue.  Seeing an unknown force approaching, they threw up their hands in token of submission, crying out at the same time in Spanish, " <HI REND="italics">Pace! pace!</HI>
135.sgm: " (peace! peace!)  We were at once ordered to halt while Major Savage went forward to arrange for the surrender.  The Major was at once recognized and cordially received by such of the band as he desired to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>He at once told the chief the object of the expedition, and his requirements.  His terms were promptly agreed to, and before we had time to examine the captives or their wigwams, they had commenced packing their supplies and removing their property from their bark huts.  This done, the torch was applied by the Indians themselves, in token of their sincerity in removing to the Reservations on the Fresno.</P>
135.sgm:<P>By the Major's orders they had at once commenced their preparations for removal to a rendezvous, which he had selected nearly opposite this encampment, which was accessible to horses.  This plateau was also the location designated for our camp.  This camp was afterwards used by an employe&acute; at the agency, whose name was Bishop, and was known as Bishop's Camp.  It is situated on an elevated table, on the right side of the valley of the South Fork.</P>
135.sgm:<P>While the Indians were preparing for their transfer to the place selected, our tired and hungry men began to feel the need of rest and refreshments.  We had traveled a much longer distance since the morning before than had been estimated in expectation of a halt, and many of the men had not tasted food since the day before.</P>
135.sgm:<P>John Hankin told Major Savage that if a roast dog could be procured, he would esteem it an especial favor.  Bob McKee thought this a capital time to learn to eat acorn bread, but after trying some set before him by "a young <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>A call was made for volunteers to go back to bring up the reserve and supplies, but the service was not very promptly accepted.  McKee, myself and two others, however, offered to go with the order to move down to the selected rendezvous.  Three Indians volunteerd to go with us as guides; one will seldom serve alone.  We found the trail on the right bank less laborious to travel than was expected, for the snow had mostly disappeared from the loose, sandy soil, which upon this side of the river has a southwesterly exposure.  On our arrival in camp preparations were begun to obey the order of the Major.  While coffee was being prepared Doctor Bronson wisely prescribed and most skillfully administered to us a refreshing draught of " <HI REND="italics">Aqua Ardente</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After a hasty <HI REND="italics">breakfast</HI>
135.sgm:<P>From this camp, established as our headquarters, or as a base of operations while in this vicinity, Major Savage sent Indian runners to the bands who were supposed to be hiding in the mountains.  These messengers were instructed to assure all the Indians that if they would go and make treaties with the commissioners.  they would there be furnished with food and clothing, and receive protection, but if they did not come in, he should make war upon them until he destroyed them all.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>Pon-wat-chee had told the Major when his own village was captured, that a small band of Po-ho-no-chees were encamped on the sunny slope of the divide of the Merced, and he having at once dispatched a runner to them, they began to come into camp.  This circumstance afforded encouragement to the Major, but Pon-wat-chee was not entirely sanguine of success with the Yosemites, though he told the Major that if the snow continued deep they could not escape.</P>
135.sgm:<P>At first but few Indians came in, and these were very cautious--dodging behind rocks and trees, as if fearful we would not recognize their friendly signals.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Being fully assured by those who had already come in, of friendly treatment, all soon came in who were in our immediate vicinity.  None of the Yosemites had responded to the general message sent.  Upon a special envoy being sent to the chief, he appeared the next day in person.  He came alone, and stood in dignifed silence before one of the guard, until motioned to enter camp.  He was immediately recognized by Pon-wat-chee as Ten-ie-ya, the old chief of the Yosemites, and was kindly cared for--being well supplied with food--after which, with the aid of the other Indians, the Major informed him of the wishes of the commissioners.  The old sachem was very suspicious of Savage, and feared he was taking this method of getting the Yosemites into his power for the purpose of revenging his personal wrongs.  Savage told him that if he would go to the commissioners and make a treaty of peace with them, as the other Indians were going to do, there would be no more war.  Ten-ie-ya cautiously inquired as to the object of taking all the Indians to the plains of the San Joaquin valley, and said: "My people do not want anything from the `Great Father' you tell me about.  The Great Spirit is our father, and he has always supplied us with all we need.  We do <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This was abruptly answered by Savage, in Indian dialect and gestures: "If you and your people have all you desire, why do you steal our horses and mules?  Why do you rob the miners' camps?  Why do you murder the white men, and plunder and burn their houses?"</P>
135.sgm:<P>Ten-ie-ya sat silent for some time; it was evident he understood what Savage had said, for he replied: "My young men have sometimes taken horses and mules from the whites.  It was wrong for them to do so.  It is not wrong to take the property of enemies, who have wronged my people.  My young men believed the white gold-diggers were our enemies; we now know they are not, and we will be glad to live in peace with them.  We will stay here and be friends.  My people do not want to go to the plains.  The tribes who go there are some of them very bad.  They will make war on my people.  We cannot live on the plains with them.  Here we can defend ourselves against them."</P>
135.sgm:<P>In reply to this Savage very deliberately and firmly said: "Your people must go to the Commissioners and make terms with them.  If they do not, your young men will again steal our horses, your people will again kill and plunder the whites.  It was your people who robbed my stores, burned my houses, and murdered my men.  If they do not make a treaty, your whole tribe will be destroyed, not one of them will be left alive."  At this vigorous ending of the Major's speech, the old chief replied: "It is useless to talk to you about who destroyed your property and killed your people.  If the Chow-chillas do not boast of it, they are cowards, for they led us on.  I am old and you can kill me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>The next day passed without their coming, although the snow storm had ceased during the night before.  It was then decided that it would be necessary to go to the village of the Yosemites, and bring them in; and in case they could not be found there, to follow to their hiding-places in the deep can&tilde;on, so often represented as such a dangerous locality.  Ten-ie-ya was questioned as to the route and the time it would take his people to come in; and when he learned we were going to his village, he represented that the snow was so deep that the horses could not go through it.  He also stated that the rocks were so steep that our horses could not climb out of the valley if they should go into it.  Captain Boling caused Ten-ie-ya's statements to be made known to his men.  It was customary in all of our expeditions where the force was divided, to call for volunteers.  The men were accordingly drawn up into line, and the call made that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>This proposition was received with shouts of laughter, and the arrangements for the contest were at once commenced, as it afforded a source of frolicsome amusement.  A hundred yards were paced off, and the goal conspicuously marked.  A distance line was to determine who should constitute the camp-guard.  I doubt if such boisterous hilarity and almost boyish merriment was ever before seen while making a detail from any military organization.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The Indians were at first somewhat alarmed at the noisy preparations, and began to be fearful of their safety, but on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:learning the cause of the excitement, they, too, became interested in the proceedings, and expressed a desire to participate in the race.  Two or three were allowed to join in as proxies for the " <HI REND="italics">heavy ones</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Preparations were made for an early start the next morning.  The officer to be left in charge of the camp was instructed to allow the Indians all liberty consistent with <HI REND="italics">safety</HI>
135.sgm:, and to exercise no personal restraint over them unless there should be an evident attempt to leave in a body; when, of course, any movement of the kind was to be defeated.  The Major said: "I deem the presence of the women and children a sufficient hostage for the peaceful conduct of the men, but do not allow <HI REND="italics">any of them</HI>
135.sgm:<P>This last injunction was to guard against annoyance from vermin.  The <HI REND="italics">pediculi</HI>
135.sgm: of the Indian race have an especial affinity for them.  White people have but little to fear from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:Indian vermin except the temporary annoyance that is experienced from some species that infest animals and birds.  They do not find the transfer congenial, and soon disappear.  This fact may not be generally known, but I believe it to be a normal arrangement for the exclusive <HI REND="italics">comfort</HI>
135.sgm:<P>To me this is quite suggestive, when considered as evidence of a diversity of origin of the races.  I have been very particular in my observations in this matter, and have compared my own with experiences of others, and have been led to the conclusion that each separate race has parasites indigenous to that race, although the genus may be common to each.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This reluctant adaptability of these "entomological inconveniences" saved us from one of the curses of the ancient Egyptians, when contact was unavoidable.</P>
135.sgm:<P>As no information had been received from the camp of the Yosemites, after an early breakfast, the order was passed to "fall in," and when the order "march" was given, we moved off in single file, Savage leading, with Ten-ie-ya as guide.</P>
135.sgm:<P>From the length of time taken by the chief to go and return from his encampment, it was supposed that with horses, and an early start, we should be able to go and return the same day, if for any cause it should be deemed desirable, although sufficient supplies were taken, in case of a longer delay.</P>
135.sgm:<P>While ascending to the divide between the South Fork and the main Merced we found but little snow, but at the divide, and beyond, it was from three to five feet in depth, and in places much deeper.  The sight of this somewhat cooled our ardor, but none asked for a " <HI REND="italics">furlough</HI>
135.sgm:<P>To somewhat equalize the laborious duties of making a trail, each man was required to take his turn in front.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>Old Ten-ie-ya relaxed the rigidity of his bronze features, in admiration of our method of making a trail, and assured us, that, notwithstanding the depth of snow, we would soon reach his village.  We had in our imaginations pictured it as in some deep rocky canon in the mountains.</P>
135.sgm:<P>While in camp the frantic efforts of the old chief to describe the location to Major Savage, had resulted in the unanimous verdict among the "boys," who were observing him, that "it must be a devil of a place."  Feeling encouraged by the hope that we should soon arrive at the residences of his Satanic majesty's subjests, we wallowed on, alternately becoming the object of a joke, as we in turn were extricated from the drifts.  When we had traversed a little more than half the distance, as was afterwards proved, we met the Yosemites on their way to our rendezvous on the South Fork.</P>
135.sgm:<P>As they filed past us, the major took account of their number, which was but seventy-two.  As they reached our beaten trail, satisfaction was variously expressed, by grunts from the men, by the low rippling laughter from the squaws, and by the children clapping their hands in glee at the sight.  On being asked where the others of his band were, the old Sachem said, "This is all of my people that are willing to go with me to the plains.  Many that have been with me are from other tribes.  They have taken wives from my band; all have gone with their wives and children to the Tuolumne and to the Monos."  Savage told <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>With a belief that but a small part of Ten-ei-ya's band was with this party, Major Savage decided to go on to the Indian village and ascertain if any others could be found or traces of them discovered.  This decision was a satisfactory one and met with a hearty approval as it was reported along the line.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This tribe had been estimated by Pon-wat-chee and Cow-chit-tee, as numbering more than two hundred; as about that number usually congregated when they met together to " <HI REND="italics">cache</HI>
135.sgm:<P>At other times they were scattered in bands on the sunny slopes of the ridges, and in the mountain glens.  Ten-ie-ya had been an unwilling guide thus far, and Major Savage said to him: "You may return to camp with your people, and I will take one of your young men with me.  There are but few of your people here.  Your tribe is large.  I am going to your village to see your people, who will not come with you.  They <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Savage then selected one of the young "braves" to accompany him.  Ten-ie-ya replied, as the young Indian stepped forward by his direction, "I will go with my people; my young man shall go with you to my village.  You will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>The Major listened to the old Indian's volubility for awhile, but interrupted him with a cheering "Forward march!" at which the impatient command moved briskly forward over the now partly broken trail, leaving the chief alone, as his people had already gone on.</P>
135.sgm:<P>We found the traveling much less laborious than before, and it seemed but a short time after we left the Indians before we suddenly came in full view of the valley in which was the village, or rather the encampments of the Yosemities.  The immensity of rock I had seen in my vision on the Old Bear Valley trail from Ridley's Ferry was here presented to my astonished gaze.  The mystery of that scene was here disclosed.  My awe was increased by this nearer view.  The face of the immense cliff was shadowed by the declining sun; its outlines only had been seen at a distance.  This towering mass <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Fools our fond gaze, and greatest of the great,<LB>Defies at first our Nature's littleness,<LB>Till, growing with (to) its growth, we thus dilate<LB>Our spirits to the size of that they contemplate."</HI>
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135.sgm:<P>That stupendous cliff is now known as "El Capitan" (the Captain), and the plateau from which we had our first view of the valley, as Mount Beatitude.</P>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>EL CAPITAN. (3,300 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:<P>It has been said that "it is not easy to describe in words the precise impressions which great objects make upon us."  I cannot describe how completely I realized this truth.  None but those who have visited this most wonderful valley, can even imagine the feelings with which I looked upon the view that was there presented.  The grandeur of the scene was but softened by the haze that hung over the valley, --light as gossamer--and by the clouds which partially dimmed the higher cliffs and mountains.  This obscurity of vision but increased the awe with which I beheld it, and as I looked, a peculiar exalted sensation seemed to fill my whole being, and I found my eyes in tears with emotion.</P>
135.sgm:<P>During many subsequent visits to this locality, this sensation was never again so fully aroused.  It is probable that the shadows fast clothing all before me, and the vapory clouds at the head of the valley, leaving the view beyond still undefined, gave a weirdness to the scene, that made it so impressive; and the conviction that it was utterly indescribable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>Richardson, in his admirable work, "Beyond the Mississippi," says: "See Yosemite and die!  I shall not attempt to describe it; the subject is too large and my capacity too small.***Painfully at first these stupendous walls confuse the mind.  By degrees, day after day, the sight of them clears it, until at last one receives a just impression of their solemn immensity.***Volumes ought to be and will be written about it."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Richardson has expressed in graphic language the impressions produced upon nearly all who for the first time behold this wonderful valley.  The public has now, to a certain degree, been prepared for these scenes.</P>
135.sgm:<P>They are educated by the descriptions, sketches, photographs and masterly paintings of Hill and Bierstadt; whereas, on our first visit, our imagination had been misled by the descriptive misrepresentations of savages, whose prime object was to keep us from their safe retreat, until we had expected to see some terrible abyss.  The reality so little resembled the picture of imagination, that my astonishment was the more overpowering.</P>
135.sgm:<P>To obtain a more distinct and <HI REND="italics">quiet</HI>
135.sgm: view, I had left the trail and my horse and wallowed through the snow alone to a projecting granite rock.  So interested was I in the scene before me, that I did not observe that my comrades had all moved on, and that I would soon be left indeed alone.  My situation attracted the attention of Major Savage,--who was riding in rear of column,--who hailed me from the trail below with, "you had better wake up from that dream up there, or you may lose your hair; I have no faith in Ten-ie-ya's statement that there are no Indians about here.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:We had better be moving; some of the murdering devils may be lurking along this trail to pick off stragglers."  I hurriedly joined the Major on the descent, and as other views presented themselves, I said with some enthusiasm, "If my hair is now required, I can depart in peace, for I have here seen the power and glory of a Supreme being; the majesty of His handy-work is in that `Testimony of the Rocks.'  That mute appeal--pointing to El Capitan--illustrates it, with more convincing eloquence than can the most powerful arguments of surpliced priests."  "Hold up, Doc! you are soaring too high for me; and perhaps for yourself.  This is rough riding; we had better mind this devilish trail, or we shall go <HI REND="italics">soaring</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. J. M. Hutchings has recently cited Elliott's History of Fresno County and dispatches from Major Savage as proof that it was May 5th or 6th, 1851, that the Mariposa Battalion first entered the Yosemite.  As a matter of fact, our adjutant was not with us when the discovery was made in March, nor was there ever but two companies in the Yosemite at any time, Boling's and part of Dill's.  Captain Dill himself was detailed for duty at the Fresno, after the expedition in March, as was also the adjutant.  In making out his report, Mr. Lewis must have ignored the first entry of the valley by the few men who discovered it, and made his first entry to appear as the date of the discovery.  This may or may not have been done to give importance to the operations of the battalion.  I have never seen the report.</P>
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135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Naming the Valley--Signification and Origin of the Word--Its proper Pronunciation: Yo-sem-i-ty--Mr. Hutchings and Yo-Ham-i-te--His Restoration of Yo-sem-i-te.</P>
135.sgm:<P>MY devout astonishment at the supreme grandeur of the scenery by which I was surrounded, continued to engross my mind.  The warmth of the fires and preparations for supper, however, awakened in me other sensations, which rapidly dissipated my excitement.  As we rode up, Major Savage remarked to Capt. Boling, "We had better move on up, and hunt out the "Grizzlies" before we go into camp for the night.  We shall yet have considerable time to look about this hole before dark."  Captain Boling then reported that the young guide had halted here, and poured out a volley of Indian lingo which no one could understand, and had given a negative shake of his head when the course was pointed out, and signs were made for him to move on.  The Captain, not comprehending this performance, had followed the trail of the Indians to the bank of the stream near by, but had not ventured further, thinking it best to wait for Major Savage to come up.  After a few inquiries, the Major said there was a ford below, where the Indians crossed the Merced; and that he would go with the guide and examine it.  Major Savage and Captains Boling and Dill then started down to the crossing.  They soon returned, and we were ordered to arrange our camp for the night.  Captain Boling said the Merced was too high to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>The guide had told the Major there was no other way up the valley, as it was impossible to pass the rocks on the south side of the stream.  From this, it was evident the Major had never before seen the valley, and upon inquiry, said so.  One of our best men, Tunnehill, who had been listening to what the Captain was saying, very positively remarked: "I have long since learned to discredit everything told by an Indian.  I never knew one to tell the truth.  This imp of Satan has been lying to the Major, and to me his object is very transparent.  He knows a better ford than the one below us."  A comrade laughingly observed: "Perhaps you can find it for the Major, and help him give us an evening ride; I have had all the exercise I need to-day, and feel as hungry as a wolf."  Without a reply, Tunnehill mounted his little black mule and left at a gallop.  He returned in a short time, at the same rapid gate, but was in a sorry plight.  The mule and rider had unexpectedly taken a plunge bath in the ice-cold waters of the Merced.  As such mishaps excited but little sympathy, Tunnehill was greeted with: "Hallo! what's the matter, comrade?"  "Where do you get your washing done?"  "Been trying to cool off that frisky animal, have you?"  "Old Ten-ie-ya's Can&tilde;on is not in as hot a place as we supposed, is it?"  "How about the reliability of the Indian race?"  To all these bantering jokes, though in an uncomfortable plight, Tunnehill, with great good nature, replied: "I am all right!  I believe in orthodox immersion, but this kind of baptism has only <HI REND="italics">confirmed</HI>
135.sgm: me in previous convictions."  The shivering mule was rubbed, blanketed, and provided for, before his master attended to his own comfort, and then we learned that, in his attempt to explore a way across the Merced, his mule was swept off its feet, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BRIDAL VEIL FALL.  (630 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:<P>After supper, guards stationed, and the camp fires plentifully provided for, we gathered around the burning logs of oak and pine, found near our camp.  The hearty supper and cheerful blaze created a general good feeling.  Social converse and anecdotes--mingled with jokes--were freely exchanged, as we enjoyed the solace of our pipes and warmed ourselves preparatory to seeking further refreshment in sleep.  While thus engaged, I retained a full <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:consciousness of our locality; for being in close proximity to the huge cliff that had so attracted my attention, my mind was frequently drawn away from my comrades.  After the jollity of the camp had somewhat subsided, the valley became the topic of conversation around our camp fire.  None of us at that time, surmised the extreme vastness of those cliffs; although before dark, we had seen El Capitan looking down upon our camp, while the "Bridal Veil" was being wafted in the breeze.  Many of us <HI REND="italics">felt</HI>
135.sgm:<P>It may appear <HI REND="italics">sentimental</HI>
135.sgm:, but the coarse jokes of the careless, and the indifference of the practical, sensibly jarred my more devout feelings, while this subject was a matter of general conversation; as if a sacred subject had been ruthlessly profaned, or the visible power of Deity disregarded.  After relating my observations from the "Old Bear Valley Trail," I suggested that this valley should have an appropriate name by which to designate it, and in a tone of pleasantry, said to Tunnehill, who was drying his wet clothing by our fire, "You are the first white man that ever received any form of baptism in this valley, and you should be considered the proper person to give a baptismal name to the valley itself."  He replied, "If whisky can be provided for such a ceremony, I shall be happy to participate; but if it is to be another cold water affair, I have no desire to take a hand.  I have done enough in that line for tonight."  Timely jokes and ready repartee for a time changed the subject, but in the lull of this exciting pastime, some one remarked, "I like Bunnell's suggestion of giving this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>As I did not take a fancy to any of the names proposed, I remarked that "an American name would be the most appropriate;" that "I could not see any necessity for going to a foreign country for a name for American scenery--the grandest that had ever yet been looked upon.  That it would be better to give it an Indian name than to import a strange and inexpressive one; that the name of the tribe who had occupied it, would be more appropriate than any I had heard suggested."  I then proposed "that we give the valley the name of Yo-sem-i-ty, as it was suggestive, euphonious, and certainly <HI REND="italics">American</HI>
135.sgm:; that by so doing, the name of the tribe of Indians which we met leaving their homes in this valley, perhaps never to return, would be perpetuated."  I was here interrupted by Mr. Tunnehill, who impatiently exclaimed: "Devil take the Indians and their names!  Why should we honor these vagabond murderers by perpetuating their name?"  Another said: "I agree with Tunnehill; --the Indians and their names.  Mad Anthony's plan for me!  Let's call this Paradise Valley."  In reply, I said to the last speaker, "Still, for a young man with such <HI REND="italics">religious tendencies</HI>
135.sgm: they would be good objects on which to develop your Christianity."  Unexpectedly, a hearty laugh was raised, which broke up further discussion, and before opportunity was given for any others to object to the name, John O'Neal, a rollicking Texan of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:Capt. Boling's company, vociferously announced to the whole camp the subject of our discussion, by saying, "Hear ye!  Hear ye!  Hear ye!  A vote will now be taken to decide what name shall be given to this valley."  The question of giving it the name of Yo-sem-i-ty was then explained; and upon a <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
135.sgm:<P>At the time I proposed this name, the signification of it (a grizzly bear) was not generally known to our battalion, although "the grizzlies" was frequently used to designate this tribe.  Neither was it pronounced with uniformity.  For a correct pronunciation, Major Savage was our best authority.  He could speak the dialects of most of the mountain tribes in this part of California, but he confessed that he could not readily understand Ten-ie-ya, or the Indian guide, as they appeared to speak a Pai-ute jargon.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Major Savage checked the noisy demonstrations of our "Master of Ceremonies," but approvingly participated in our proceedings, and told us that the name was Yo-sem-i-ty, as pronounced by Ten-ie-ya, or O-soom-i-ty, as pronounced by some other bands; and that it signified a full-grown grizzly bear.  He further stated, that the name was given to old Ten-ie-ya's band, because of their lawless and predatory character.</P>
135.sgm:<P>As I had observed that the different tribes in Mariposa County differed somewhat in the pronunciation of this name, I asked an explanation of the fact.  With a smile and a look, as if he suspected I was quizzing him, the Major replied: "They only differ, as do the Swedes, Danes and Norwegians, or as in the different Shires of England; but you know well enough how similar in sound words may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>After the name had been decided upon, the Major narrated some of his experiences in the use of the general "sign language"--as a Rocky Mountain man--and his practice of it when he first came among the California Indians, until he had acquired their language.  The Major regarded the Kah-we-ah, as the parent language of the San-Joaquin Valley Indians, while that in use by the other mountain tribes in their vicinity, were but so many dialects of Kah-we-ah, the Pai-ute and more Northern tribes.  When we sought our repose, it was with feelings of quiet satisfaction that I wrapped myself in my blankets, and soundly slept.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I consider it proper, to digress somewhat from a regular narrative of the incidents of our expedition, to consider some matters relative to the name "Yosemity."  This was the form of orthography and pronunciation originally in use by our battalion.  Lieutenant Moore, of the U.S.A. in his report of an expedition to the Valley in 1852, substituted <HI REND="italics">e</HI>
135.sgm: as the terminal letter, in place of <HI REND="italics">y</HI>
135.sgm:, in use by us; no doubt thinking the use of <HI REND="italics">e</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Sometime after the name had been adopted, I learned from Major Savage that Ten-ei-ya repudiated the name for the Valley, but proudly acknowledged it as the designation of his band, claiming that "when he was a young chief, this name had been selected because they occupied the mountains and valleys which were the favorite resort of the Grizzly Bears, and because his people were expert in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>It was traditionary with the other Indians, that the band to which the name Yosemite had been given, had originally been formed and was then composed of outlaws or refugees from other tribes.  That nearly all were descendants of the neighboring tribes on both sides of "Kay-o-pha," or " <HI REND="italics">Skye Mountains</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Ten-ie-ya was asked concerning this tradition, and responded rather loftily: "I am the descendant of an Ah-wah-ne-chee chief.  His people lived in the mountains and valley where my people have lived.  The valley was then called Ah-wah-nee.  Ah-wah-ne-chee signifies the dwellers in Ahwahnee."</P>
135.sgm:<P>I afterwards learned the traditional history of Ten-ie-ya's ancestors.  His statement was to the effect, that the Ah-wah-ne-chees had many years ago been a large tribe, and lived in territory now claimed by him and his people.  That by wars, and a fatal black-sickness (probably small-pox or measles), nearly all had been destroyed.  The survivors of the band fled from the valley and joined other tribes.  For years afterward, the country was uninhabited; but few of the extinct tribe ever visited it, and from a superstitious fear, it was avoided.  Some of his ancestors had gone to the Mono tribe and been adopted by them.  His father had taken a wife from that tribe.  His mother was a Mono woman, and he had lived with her people while young.  Eventually, Ten-ie-ya, with some of his father's tribe had visited the valley, and claimed it as their birth-right.  He thus became the founder of the new tribe or band, which has since been called the "Yosemite."</P>
135.sgm:<P>It is very probable that the statement of Major Savage, as to the origin of the name as applicable to Ten-ie-ya's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>From my knowledge of Indian customs, I am aware that it is not uncommon for them to change the names of persons or localities after some remarkable event in the history of either.  It would not, therefore, appear strange that Ten-ie-ya should have adopted another name for his band.  I was unable to fix upon any definite date at which the Ah-wah-ne-chees became extinct as a tribe, but from the fact that some of the Yosemites claimed to be direct descendants, the time could not have been as long as would be inferred from their descriptions.  When these facts were communicated to Captain Boling, and Ah-wah-ne was ascertained to be the <HI REND="italics">classical</HI>
135.sgm: name, the Captain said that name was all right enough for history or poetry, but that we could not now change the name Yosemite, nor was it desirable to do so.  I made every effort to ascertain the signification of Ah-wah-ne, but could never fully satisfy myself, as I received different interpretations at different times.  In endeavoring to ascertain from Ten-ie-ya his explanation of the name, he, by the motion of his hands, indicated depth, while trying to illustrate the name, at the same time plucking grass which he held up before me.  From these " <HI REND="italics">signs</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The dialect of the Yosemites was a composite of that of almost every tribe around them; and even words of Spanish derivation were discovered in their conversations.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>It is not uncommon for the mountain men and traders, to acquire a mixed jargon of Indian dialects, which they mingle with Spanish, French or English in their talk to an extent sometimes amusing.  The Indians readily adopt words from this lingo, and learn to Anglicize Indian names in conversation with "Americans."  This, when done by the Mission Indians, who perhaps have already made efforts to improve the Indian name with Mission Spanish, tends to mislead the inquirer after " <HI REND="italics">pure</HI>
135.sgm: " <HI REND="italics">Indian names</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The Mission Indians after deserting, introduced and applied Spanish names to objects that already had Indian designations, and in this way, new words are formed from corrupted Mission Spanish, that may lead to wrong interpretations.  I learned from Russio, the chief interpreter, that sometimes more than one word was used to express the same object, and often one word expressed different objects.  As an illustration of corrupted Spanish that passes for Indian, the words Oya (olla) and Hoya, may be taken.  Oya signifies a water pot, and Hoya, a pit hole.  From these words the Mission Indians have formed "Loya," which is used to designate camp grounds where holes in the rocks may be found near, in which to pulverize acorns, grass seeds, &amp;c., as well as to the "Sentinal Rock," from its fancied resemblance to a water pot, or long water <HI REND="italics">basket</HI>
135.sgm:.  Another source of difficulty, is that of representing by written characters the echoing gutteral sounds of some Indian words.  While being aware of this, I can safely assert that Yosemite, is purer and better Indian than is Mississippi, ("Me-ze-se-be," the river that runs every where; that is, "Endless river) or many other names that are regarded as good if not <HI REND="italics">pure Indian</HI>
135.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">According to the Rev. S. G. Wright, of Leach Lake, Minnesota Reservation, and " <HI REND="italics">Wain-ding</HI>
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135.sgm:<P>Our interpretors were, or had been, Mission Indians, who rendered the dialects into as good Spanish as they had at command, but rather than fail in their office, for want of words, they would occasionally insert one of their own coining.  This was done, regardless of the consequences, and when chided, declared it was for our benefit they had done so.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Attempts were made to supersede the name we had given the valley, by substituting some fancied improvements.  At first, I supposed these to be simply changes rung on Yosemite, but soon observed the earnestness of the sponsors in advocating the new names, in their magazine and newspaper articles.  They claimed to have acquired the <HI REND="italics">correct name</HI>
135.sgm:<P>In 1855 Mr. J. M. Hutchings, of San Francisco, visited the Yosemite, and published a description of it, and also published a lithograph of the Yosemite Fall.  Through his energetic efforts, the valley was more fully advertised.  He ambitiously gave it the name of Yo-Hamite, and tenaciously adhered to it for some time; though Yosemite had already crystalized.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The Rev. Doctor Scott, of San Francisco, in a newspaper article--disappointing to his admirers--descriptive of his travels and sojourn there, endeavored to dispossess both Mr. Hutchings and myself of our names, and <HI REND="italics">named</HI>
135.sgm: the valley Yo-Amite: probably as a <HI REND="italics">peace</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I did not at first consider it good policy to respond to these articles.  I had no desire to engage in a newspaper controversy with such influences against me; but after solicitations from Mr. Ayers, and other friends, I gave the facts upon which were based editorials in the "California Chronicle," "Sacramento Union," the Mariposa and other papers.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>By invitation of Mr. Hutchings, I had a personal interview with him in San Francisco, relative to this matter, and at his request furnished some of the incidents connected with our expedition against the Indians, as hereinbefore narrated.  These he published in his magazine, and afterwards in his "Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity in California."</P>
135.sgm:<P>This statement of facts was signed by myself, and certified to by two members of the State legislature--James M. Roan and George H. Crenshaw--as follows: "We, the undersigned, having been members of the same company, and through most of the scenes depicted by Doctor Bunnell, have no hesitation in saying that the article above is correct."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Hutchings says: "We cheerfully give place to the above communication, that the public may learn how and by whom this remarkable valley was first visited and named; and, although we have differed with the writer and others concerning the name given, as explained in several articles that have appeared at different times in the several newspapers of the day, in which Yo-Hamite was preferred; yet as Mr. Bunnell was among the first to visit the valley, we most willingly accord to him the right of giving it whatsoever name he pleases."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Hutchings then goes on to explain how he obtained the name Yo-Hamite from his Indian guide Kos-sum; that its correctness was affirmed by John Hunt, previous to the publication of the lithograph of the great falls, etc., and during this explanation, says: "Up to this time we had never heard or known any other name than Yosemite;" and farther on in a manly way says: "Had we before known that Doctor Bunnell and his party were the first whites who ever entered the valley (although we have the honor of being <HI REND="italics">the first in later years to visit it and call public</HI>
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135.sgm:<HI REND="italics">attention to it</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After my interview with Mr. Hutchings--for I had never heard the word Yo-Hamite until it was published by him--I asked John Hunt, the Indian trader referred to, where he had got the word furnished to Mr. Hutchings.  John, with some embarrassment, said, that "Yo-Hem-i-te was the way his Indians pronounced the name."  I asked what name?  "Why, Yosemite," said John.  But, I replied, you know that the Indian name for the valley is Ah-wah-ne! and the name given by us was the name of Ten-ie-ya's band?  "Of course, (said John,) but my Indians now apply the word Yo-Hemite to the valley or the territory adjacent, though their name for a bear is Osoomity."  John Hunt's squaw was called, and asked by him the meaning of the word, but confessed her ignorance.  Mr. Cunningham was also consulted, but could give us no certain information; but surmised that the word had been derived from "Le-Hamite `The Arrowwood.'"  Another said possibly from "Hem-nock," the Kah-we-ah word for God.  As to Yo-Amite, insisted on by Doctor Scott, I made no effort to find an interpretation of it.</P>
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135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Date of Discovery--First White Visitors--Captain Joe Walker's Statement--Ten-ie-ya's Cunning--Indian Tradition--A lying Guide--The Ancient Squaw--Destroying Indian Stores--Sweat-houses--The Mourner's Toilet--Sentiment and Reality--Return to Head-quarters.</P>
135.sgm:<P>THE date of our discovery and entrance into the Yosemite was about the 21st of March, 1851.  We were afterward assured by Ten-ie-ya and others of his band, that this was the first visit ever made to this valley by white men.  Ten-ie-ya said that a small party of white men once crossed the mountains on the North side, but were so guided as not to see it; Appleton's and the People's Encyclopedias to the contrary notwithstanding.<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">Captain Joe Walker, for whom "Walker's Pass" is named, told me that he once passed quite near the valley on one of his mountain trips; but that his Ute and Mono guides gave such a dismal account of the canons of both rivers, that he kept his course near to the divide until reaching Bull Creek, he descended and went into camp, not seeing the valley proper.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>It was to prevent the recurrence of such an event, that Ten-ie-ya had consented to go to the commissioner's camp and make peace, intending to return to his mountain home as soon as the excitement from the recent outbreak subsided.  The entrance to the Valley had ever been carefully guarded by the old chief, and the people of his band.  As a part of its traditionary history, it was stated: "That when Ten-ie-ya left the tribe of his mother and went to live in Ah-wah-ne, he was accompanied by a very old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>It was through the influence of this old friend of his father that Ten-ie-ya was induced to leave the Mono tribe, and with a few of the descendants from the Ah-wah-nee-chees, who had been living with the Monos and Pai-Utes, to establish himself in the valley of his ancestors as their chief.  He was joined by the descendants from the Ah-wah-ne-chees, and by others who had fled from their own tribes to avoid summary Indian justice.  The old "medicine man" was the counselor of the young chief.  Not long before the death of this patriarch, as if endowed with prophetic wisdom, he assured Ten-ie-ya that while he retained possession of Ah-wah-ne his band would increase in numbers and become powerful.  That if he befriended those who sought his protection, no other tribe would come to the valley to make war upon him, or attempt to drive him from it, and if he obeyed his counsels he would put a spell upon it that would hold it sacred for him and his people alone; none other would ever dare to make it their home.  He then cautioned the young chief against the horsemen of the lowlands (the Spanish residents), and declared that, should they enter Ah-wah-ne, his tribe would soon be scattered and destroyed, or his people be taken captive, and he himself be the last chief in Ah-wah-ne.</P>
135.sgm:<P>For this reason, Ten-ie-ya declared, had he so rigidly guarded his valley home, and all who sought his protection.  No one ventured to enter it, except by his permission; all feared the "witches" there, and his displeasure.  He had "made war upon the white gold diggers to drive them from the mountains, and prevent their entrance into Ah-wah-ne."</P>
135.sgm:<P>The Yo-sem-i-tes had been the most warlike of the mountain tribes in this part of California; and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>The superstitious fear of annihilation had, however, so depressed the warlike ardor of Ten-ie-ya, who had now become an old man, that he had decided to make efforts to conciliate the Americans, rather than further resist their occupancy of the mountains; as thereby, he hoped to save his valley from intrusion.  In spite of Ten-ie-ya's cunning, the prophecies of the "old medicine" man have been mostly fulfilled.  White horsemen have entered Ah-wah-ne; the tribe has been scattered and destroyed.  Ten-ie-ya was the last chief of his people.  He was killed by the chief of the Monos, not because of the prophecy; nor yet because of our entrance into his territory, but in retribution for a crime against the Mono's hospitality.  But I must not, Indian like, tell the latter part of my story first.</P>
135.sgm:<P>After an early breakfast on the morning following our entrance into the Yosemite, we equipped ourselves for duty; and as the word was passed to "fall in," we mounted and filed down the trail to the lower ford, ready to commence our explorations.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The water in the Merced had fallen some during the night, but the stream was still in appearance a raging torrent.  As we were about to cross, our guide with earnest gesticulations asserted that the water was too deep to cross, that if we attempted it, we would be swept down into the can&tilde;on.  That later, we could cross without difficulty.  These assertions angered the Major, and he told the guide that he lied; for he knew that later in the day the snow would melt.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>The ford was found to be rocky; but we passed over it without serious difficulty, although several repeated their morning ablutions while stumbling over the boulders.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The open ground on the north side was found free from snow.  The trail led toward "El Capitan," which had from the first, been the particular object of my admiration.</P>
135.sgm:<P>At this time no distinctive names were known by which to designate the cliffs, waterfalls, or any of the especial objects of interest, and the imaginations of some ran wild in search of <HI REND="italics">appropriate</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Soon after we crossed the ford, smoke was seen to issue from a cluster of manzanita shrubs that commanded a view of the trail.  On examination, the smoking brands indicated that it had been a picket fire, and we now felt assured that our presence was known and our movements watched by the vigilant Indians we were hoping to find.  Moving rapidly on, we discovered near the base of El Capitan, quite a large collection of Indian huts, situated near Pigeon creek.  On making a hasty examination of the village and vicinity, no Indians could be found, but from the generally undisturbed condition of things usually found in an Indian camp, it was evident that the occupants had but recently left; appearances indicated that some of the wigwams or huts had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:occupied during the night  Not far from the camp, upon posts, rocks, and in trees, was a large <HI REND="italics">cache&acute;</HI>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HALF DOME.  (4,737 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:<P>As the trail showed that it had been used by Indians going up, but a short halt was made.  As we moved on, a smoke was again seen in the distance, and some of the more eager ones dashed ahead of the column, but as we reached the ford to which we were led by the main trail leading to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NORTH DOME AND ROYAL ARCHES.  (3,568 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:<P>These discoveries necessitated the recrossing of the river, which had now again become quite swollen; but by this time our horses and ourselves had become used to the icy waters, and when at times our animals lost their footing at the fords, they were not at all alarmed, but vigorously swam to the shore.</P>
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135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Abundant evidences were again found to indicate that the huts here had but just been deserted; that they had been occupied that morning.  Although a rigid search was made, no Indians were found.  Scouting parties in charge of Lieutenants Gilbert and Chandler, were sent out to examine each branch of the valley, but this was soon found to be an impossible task to accomplish in one day.  While exploring among the rocks that had fallen from the "Royal Arches" at the southwesterly base of the North Dome, my attention was attracted to a huge rock stilted upon some smaller ones.  Cautiously glancing underneath, I was for a moment startled by a living object.  Involuntarily my rifle was brought to bear on it, when I discovered the object to be a female; an extremely old squaw, but with a countenance that could only be likened to a vivified Egyptian mummy.  This creature exhibited no expression of alarm, and was apparently indifferent to hope or fear, love or hate.  I hailed one of my comrades on his way to camp, to report to Major Savage that I had discovered a peculiar living ethnological curiosity, and to bring something for it to eat.  She was seated on the ground, hovering over the remnants of an almost exhausted fire.  I replenished her supply of fuel, and waited for the Major.  She neither spoke or exhibited any curiosity as to my presence.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Major Savage soon came, but could elicit nothing of importance from her.  When asked where her companions were, she understood the dialect used, for she very curtly replied "You can hunt for them if you want to see them"!  When asked why she was left alone, she replied "I am too old to climb the rocks"!  The Major--forgetting the gallantry due her sex--inquired "How old are you?"  With an ineffably scornful grunt, and a coquettish leer at the Major, she maintained an indignant silence.  This attempt at a smile, left the Major in doubt as to her age.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CATHEDRAL ROCKS (2,660 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:subsequently, when Ten-ie-ya was interrogated as to the age of this old squaw, he replied that "No one knows her age.  That when he was a boy, it was a favorite <HI REND="italics">tradition</HI>
135.sgm: of the <HI REND="italics">old</HI>
135.sgm: members of his band, that when she was a child, the peaks of the Sierras were but little hills."  This free interpretation was given by the Major, while seated around the camp fire at night.  If not <HI REND="italics">reliable</HI>
135.sgm:, it was excessively amusing to the "Boys," and added to the Major's popularity.  On a subsequent visit to the Valley, an attempt was made to send the old creature to the commissioner's camp; she was placed on a mule and started.  As <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:she could not bear the fatigue, she was left with another squaw.  We learned that she soon after departed "to <HI REND="italics">the happy land in the West</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The detachment sent down the trail reported the discovery of a small rancheria, a short distance above the "Cathedral Rocks," but the huts were unoccupied.  They also reported the continuance of the trail down the left bank.  The other detachments found huts in groups, but no Indians.  At all of these localities the stores of food were abundant.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Their <HI REND="italics">cache&acute;s</HI>
135.sgm:<P>These baskets were quite numerous, and were of various patterns and for different uses.  The large ones were made either of bark, roots of the Tamarach or Cedar, Willow or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The water baskets were also made of "wire-grass;" being porous, evaporation is facilitated, and like the porous earthen water-jars of Mexico, and other hot countries, the water put into them is kept cool by evaporation.  There were also found at some of the encampments, robes or blankets made from rabbit and squirrel skins, and from skins of water-fowl.  There were also ornaments and musical instruments of a rude character.  The instruments were drums and flageolets.  The ornaments were of bone, bears' claws, birds' bills and feathers.  The thread used by these Indians, I found was spun or twisted from the inner bark of a species of the asclepias or milk-weed, by ingeniously suspending a stone to the fibre, and whirling it with great rapidity.  Sinews are chiefly used for sewing skins, for covering their bows and feathering their arrows.  Their fish spears were but a single tine of bone, with a cord so attached near the centre, that when the spear, loosely placed in a socket in the pole, was pulled out by the struggles of the fish, the tine and cord would hold it as securely as though held by a barbed hook.</P>
135.sgm:<P>There were many things found that only an Indian could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Among these relics could be distinguished the bones of horses and mules, as well as other animals, eaten by these savages.  Deers and bears were frequently driven into the valley during their seasons of migration, and were killed by expert hunters perched upon rocks and in trees that commanded their runways or trails; but their chief dependence for meat was upon horseflesh.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Among the relics of stolen property were many things recognized by our "boys," while applying the torch and giving all to the flames.  A comrade discovered a bridle and part of a riata or rope which was stolen from him with a mule <HI REND="italics">while waiting for the commissioners to inquire into the cause of the war with the Indians</HI>
135.sgm:<P>During our explorations we were on every side astonished at the colossal representations of cliffs, rocky can&tilde;ons and water-falls which constantly challenged our attention and admiration.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Occasionally some fragment of a garment was found, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:other sign of Indians, but no trail could be discovered by <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
135.sgm:<P>In subsequent visits, this region was thoroughly explored and names given to prominent objects and localities.</P>
135.sgm:<P>While searching for hidden stores, I took the opportunity to examine some of the numerous sweat-houses noticed on the bank of the Merced, below a large camp near the mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch.  It may not be out of place to here give a few words in description of these conveniences of a permanent Indian encampment, and the uses for which they are considered a necessity.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The remains of these structures are sometimes mistaken for Tumuli.  They were constructed of poles, bark, grass and mud.  The frame-work of poles is first covered with bark, reeds or grass, and then the mud--as tenacious as the soil will admit of--is spread thickly over it.  The structure is in the form of a dome, resembling a huge round mound.  After being dried by a slight fire, kindled inside, the mud is covered with earth of a sufficient depth to shed the rain from without, and prevent the escape of heat from within.  A small opening for ingress and egress is left; this comprises the extent of the house when complete, and ready for use.  These sweat-baths are used as a luxury, as a curative for disease, and as a convenience for cleansing the skin, when necessity demands it, although the Indian race is not noted for cleanliness.</P>
135.sgm:<P>As a luxury, no Russian or Turkish bath is more enjoyed by civilized people, than are these baths by the Mountain Indians.  I have seen a half dozen or more enter one of these rudely constructed sweat-houses, through the small aperture left for the purpose.  Hot stones are taken in, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>In the process for cleansing the skin from impurities, hot air alone is generally used.  If an Indian had passed the usual period for mourning for a relative, and the adhesive pitch too tenaciously clung to his no longer sorrowful countenance, he would enter, and re-enter the heated house, until the cleansing had become complete.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The mourning pitch is composed of the charred bones and ashes of their dead relative or friend.  These remains of the funeral pyre, with the charcoal, are pulverized and mixed with the resin of the pine.  This hideous mixture is usually retained upon the face of the mourner until it wears off.  If it has been well compounded, it may last nearly a year; although the young--either from a super-abundance of vitality, excessive reparative powers of the skin, or from powers of will--seldom mourn so long.  When the bare surface exceeds that covered by the pitch, it is not a scandalous disrespect in the young to remove it entirely; but a mother will seldom remove pitch or garment until both are nearly worn out.</P>
135.sgm:<P>In their camps were found articles from the miners' camps, and from the unguarded "ranchman."  There was no lack of evidence that the Indians who had deserted their villages or wigwams, were truly entitled to the <HI REND="italics">soubriquet</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Although we repeatedly discovered fresh trails leading from the different camps, all traces were soon lost among the rocks at the base of the cliffs.  The debris or talus not only afforded places for temporary concealment, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Tiring of our unsuccessful search, the hunt was abandoned, although we were convinced that the Indians had in some way passed up the cliff.</P>
135.sgm:<P>During this time, and while descending to the valley, I partly realized the great height of the cliffs and high fall.  I had observed the height we were compelled to climb before the Talus had been overcome, though from below this appeared insignificant, and after reaching the summit of our ascent, the cliffs still towered above us.  It was by instituting these comparisons while ascending and descending, that I was able to form a better judgment of altitude; for while entering the valley, --although, as before stated, I had observed the towering height of El Capitan, --my mind had been so preoccupied with the marvelous, that comparison had scarcely performed its proper function.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The level of the valley proper now appeared quite distant as we looked down upon it, and objects much less than full size.  As night was fast approaching, and a storm threatened, we returned down the trail and took our course for the rendezvous selected by Major Savage, in a grove of oaks near the mouth of "Indian Can&tilde;on."</P>
135.sgm:<P>While on our way down, looking across to and up the south or Glacier Can&tilde;on, I noticed its beautiful fall, and planned an <HI REND="italics">excursion</HI>
135.sgm: for the morrow.  I almost forgot my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GLACIER FALL.  (550 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:<P>The duties of the day had been severe on men and horses, for beside fording the Merced several times, the numerous branches pouring over cliffs and down ravines from the melting snow, rendered the overflow of the bottom lands so constant that we were often compelled to splash through the water-courses that later would be dry.  These torrents of cold water, commanded more especial attention, and excited more <HI REND="italics">comment</HI>
135.sgm: than did the grandeur of the cliffs and water-falls.  We were not a party of tourists, seeking recreation, nor philosophers investigating the operations of nature.  Our business there was to find Indians who were endeavoring to escape from our <HI REND="italics">charitable</HI>
135.sgm: intentions toward them.  But very few of the volunteers seemed to have any appreciation of the wonderful proportions of the enclosing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:granite rocks; their curiosity had been to see the stronghold of the enemy, and the <HI REND="italics">general</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Tired and wet, the independent scouts sought the camp and reported their failures.  Gilbert and Chandler came in with their detachments just at dark, from their tiresome explorations of the southern branches.  Only a small squad of their commands climbed above the Vernal and Nevada falls; and seeing the clouds resting upon the mountains above the Nevada Fall, they retraced their steps through the showering mist of the Vernal, and joined their comrades, who had already started down its rocky gorge.  These men found no Indians, but they were the first discoverers of the Vernal and Nevada Falls, and the Little Yosemite.  They reported what they had seen to their assembled comrades at the evening camp-fires.  Their names have now passed from my memory--not having had an intimate personal acquaintance with them--for according to my recollection they belonged to the company of Capt. Dill.</P>
135.sgm:<P>While on our way down to camp we met Major Savage with a detachment who had been burning a large <HI REND="italics">cache&acute;</HI>
135.sgm: located in the fork, and another small one below the mouth of the Ten-ie-ya branch.  This had been held in reserve for possible use, but the Major had now fired it, and the flames were leaping high.  Observing his movements for a few moments we rode up and made report of our unsuccessful efforts.  I briefly, but with some enthusiasm, described my view from the cliff up the North Can&tilde;on, the Mirror Lake view of the Half Dome, the Fall of the South Can&tilde;on and the view of the distant South Dome.  I volunteered a suggestion that some new tactics would have to be devised be fore we should be able to corral the "Grizzlies" or "smoke them out."  The Major looked up from the charred mass of burning acorns, and as he glanced down the smoky <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VERNAL FALL. (350 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:<P>I was surprised and somewhat irritated by the hearty laugh with which my reply was greeted.  The Major caught the expression of my eye and shrugged his shoulders as he hastily said: "I suppose that is all right, Doctor, about the water-falls, &amp;c., for there are enough of them here for one locality, as we have all discovered; but my remark was not in reference to the scenery, but the <HI REND="italics">prospect</HI>
135.sgm: of the Indians being starved out, and of their coming in to sue for peace.  We have all been more or less wet since we rolled up our blankets this morning, and this fire is very enjoyable, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NEVADA FALL. (600 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:the prospect that it offers to my mind of <HI REND="italics">smoking out</HI>
135.sgm: the Indians, is more agreeable to me than its warmth or all the scenery in creation.  I know, Doc., that there is a good deal of iron in you, but there is also considerable sentiment, and I am not in a very sentimental mood."  I replied that I did not think that any of us felt very much like making love or writing poetry, but that Ten-ie-ya's remark to him about the "Great Spirit" providing so bountifully for his people, had several times occurred to me since entering here, and that no doubt to Ten-ie-ya, this was a veritable Indian paradise.  "Well," said the Major, "as far as that is concerned, although I have not carried a Bible with me since I became a mountain-man, I remember well enough that Satan entered paradise and did all the mischief he could, but I intend to be a bigger devil in this Indian paradise <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:than old Satan ever was; and when I leave, I don't intend to <HI REND="italics">crawl</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The more practical tone and views of the Major dampened the ardor of my fancy in investing the valley with all desirable qualities, but as we compared with each other the experiences of the day, it was very clear that the half had not yet been seen or told, and that repeated views would be required before any one person could say that he had seen the Yosemite.  It will probably be as well for me to say here that though Major Savage commanded the first expedition to the valley, he never revisited it, and died without ever having seen the Vernal and Nevada Falls, or any of the views belonging to the region of the Yosemite, except those seen from the valley and from the old Indian trail on our first entrance.</P>
135.sgm:<P>We found our camp had been plentifully supplied with dry wood by the provident guard, urged, no doubt, by the threatening appearances of another snow-storm.  Some rude shelters of poles and brush were thrown up around the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>While enjoying the warmth of the fire preparatory to a night's rest, the incidents of our observations during the day were interchanged.  The probable heights of the cliffs was discussed.  One <HI REND="italics">official</HI>
135.sgm: estimated "El Capitan" at 400 feet!!  Capt. Boling at 800 feet; Major Savage was in no mood to venture an opinion. My estimate was a sheer perpendicularity of at least 1500 feet.  Mr. C. H. Spencer, son of Prof. Thomas Spencer, of Geneva, N.Y., --who had traveled quite extensively in Europe, --and a French gentleman, Monsieur Bouglinval, a civil engineer, who had joined us for the sake of adventure, gave me their opinions that my estimate was none too high; that it was probable that I was far below a correct measurement, for when there was so much sameness of height the judgment could not very well be assisted by comparison, and hence instrumental measurements alone could be relied on.  Time has demonstrated the correctness of their opinions.  These gentlemen were men of education and practical experience <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I became somewhat earnest and enthusiastic on the subject of the valley, and expressed myself in such a positive manner that the " <HI REND="italics">enfant terrible</HI>
135.sgm: " of the company derisively asked if I was given to exaggeration before I became an "Indian fighter."  From my ardor in description, and admiration of the scenery, I found myself nicknamed "Yosemity" by some of the battalion.  It was customary among the mountain men and miners to prefix distinctive names.  From this hint I became less <HI REND="italics">expressive</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Major Savage took no part in this camp discussion, but on our expressing a design to revisit the valley at some future time, he assured us that there was a probability of our being fully gratified, for if the renegades did not voluntarily come in, another visit would soon have to be made by the battalion, when we could have opportunity to measure the rocks if we then desired.  That we should first escort our "captives" to the commissioners' camp on the Fresno; that by the time we returned to the valley the trails would be clear of snow, and we would be able to explore to our satisfaction.  Casting a quizzing glance at me, he said: "The rocks will probably keep, but you will not find all of these immense <HI REND="italics">water-powers</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding a little warmth of discussion, we cheerfully wrapped ourselves in our blankets and slept, until awakened by the guard; for there had been no disturbance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>By early dawn "all ready" was announced, and we started back without having seen any of the Indian race except our useless guide and the old squaw.  Major Savage rode at the head of the column, retracing our trail, rather than attempt to follow down the south side.  The water was relatively low in the early morning, and the fords were passed without difficulty.  While passing El Capitan I felt like saluting, as I would some dignified acquaintance.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">cache&acute;s</HI>
135.sgm:<P>At our entrance we had closely followed the Indian trail over rocks that could not be re-ascended with animals.  To return, we were compelled to remove a few obstructions of poles, brush and loose rocks, placed by the Indians to prevent the escape of the animals stolen and driven down.  Entire herds had been sometimes taken from the ranches or their ranges.</P>
135.sgm:<P>After leaving the valley, but little difficulty was encountered.  The snow had drifted into the hollows, but had not to any extent obscured the trail, which we now found quite hard.  We reached the camp earlier in the day than we had reason to expect.  During these three days of absence from headquarters, we had discovered, named and partially explored one of the most remarkable of the geographical wonders of the world.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Out of Provisions--A hurried Move--Mills where Indians take Their Grists, and Pots in which they Boil their Food--Advance Movement of Captain Dill--A Hungry Squad--Enjoyment--Neglect of Duty--Escape of Indians--Following their Trail--A Sorrowful Captain--A Mystery made Clear--Duplicity of the Chow-chillas--Vow-chester's Good-will Offering--Return of the Fugitives--Major Savage as Agent and Interpreter.</P>
135.sgm:<P>ON our arrival at the rendezvous on the South Fork the officer in charge reported: "We are about out of grub."  This was a satisfactory cause for a hurried movement; for a short allowance had more terrors for men with our appetites than severe duties; and most of us had already learned that, even with prejudice laid aside, our stomachs would refuse the hospitalities of the Indians, if it were possible for them to share with us from their own scanty stores.  The Major's experience prompted him at once to give the order to break camp and move on for the camp on the Fresno.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Our mounted force chafed at the slowness of our march; for the Indians could not be hurried.  Although their cookery was of the most primitive character, we were very much delayed by the time consumed in preparing their food.</P>
135.sgm:<P>While traveling we were compelled to accommodate our movements to the capacities or inclinations of the women and children.  Captain Dill, therefore, with his company was sent on ahead from the crossing of the South Fork, they leaving with us what food they could spare.  When <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:Dill reached the waters of the Fresno about one hundred " <HI REND="italics">captives</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling's company and Major Savage remained with the "Grand Caravan," keeping out scouts and hunters to secure such game as might be found to supply ourselves with food.  We had no anxiety for the safety or security of our "captives;" our own subsistence was the important consideration; for the first night out from Bishop's camp left us but scanty stores for breakfast.  Our halting places were selected from the old Indian camping grounds, which were supplied with hoyas (holes or mortars).  These permanent mortars were in the bed-rock, or in large detached rocks that had fallen from the cliffs or mountains.  These "hoyas" had been formed and used by past generations.  They were frequent on our route, many of them had long been abandoned; as there was no indications of recent uses having been made of them.  From their numbers it was believed that the Indians had once been much more numerous than at that date.</P>
135.sgm:<P>By means of the stone pestles with which they were provided, the squaws used these primitive mills to reduce their acorns and grass seeds to flour or meal.  While the grists were being ground, others built the fires on which stones were heated.</P>
135.sgm:<P>When red hot, these stones were plunged into baskets nearly filled with water; this is continued until the water boils.  The stones are then removed and the acorn meal, or a cold mixture of it, is stirred in until thin gruel is made; the hot stones are again plunged into the liquid mass and and again removed.  When sufficiently cooked, this "Atola" or porridge, was poured into plates or moulds of sand, prepared for that purpose.  During the process of cooling, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:excess of water leaches off through the sand, leaving the woody fibre tannin and unappropriated coarse meal in distinctive strata; the edible portion being so defined as to be easily separated from the refuse and sand.  This preparation was highly prized by them, and contrary to preconceived ideas and information, all of the Indians I asked assured me that the <HI REND="italics">bitter</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Old Ten-ie-ya's four wives, and other squaws, were disposed to be quite hospitable when they learned that our supply of provisions was exhausted.  None of the command, however, ventured to sample their acorn-jellies, grass-seed much, roasted grasshoppers, and their other delicacies; nothing was accepted but the Pin&tilde;on pine nuts, which were generally devoured with a relish and a regret for the scarcity.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Certain species of worms, the larv&aelig; of ants and some other insects, common mushrooms and truffles, or wood-mushrooms, are prized by the Indian epicure, as are eels shrimps, oysters, frogs, turtles, snails, etc., by his white civilized brother.  Are we really but creatures of education?</P>
135.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">baskets</HI>
135.sgm: used by the Indians for boiling their food and other purposes, as has been before stated, are made of a tough mountain bunch-grass, nearly as hard and as strong as wire, and almost as durable.  So closely woven are they, that but little if any water can escape from them.  They are made wholly impervious with a resinous compound resembling the vulcanized rubber used by dentists.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I endeavored to ascertain what the composition was, but could only learn that the resin was procured from small trees or shrubs, and that some substance (probably mineral) was mixed with it, the latter to resist the action of heat and moisture.  I made a shrewd guess that pulverized lava and sulphur (abundant east of the High Sierras) was used, but for some cause I was left in ignorance.  The Indians, like all ignorant persons, ascribe remarkable virtues to very simple acts and to inert remedies.  Upon one occasion a doctor was extolling the virtues of a certain root, ascribing to it almost miraculous powers; I tried in vain to induce him to tell me the name of the root.  He stated that the secret was an heir-loom, and if told, the curative power of the plant would disappear; but he kindly gave me some as a preventive of some imaginary ill, when lo!  I discovered the famous remedy to be the cowslip.</P>
135.sgm:<P>After a delayed and hungry march of several days, we halted near sundown within a few miles of the Commissioner's headquarters, and went into camp for the night.  The Indians came straggling in at will from their hunts on the way, their trophies of skill with their bows being the big California squirrels, rabbits or hares and quail.  Our more expert white hunters had occasionally brought in venison for our use.  We had ceased to keep a very effective guard over our "captives;" none seemed necessary, as all appeared contented and satisfied, almost joyous, as we neared their destination on the Fresno.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The truth is, we regarded hostilities, so far as these Indians were concerned, as ended.  We had voted the peace policy a veritable success.  We had discussed the matter in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Hardly any attention had been paid to the captives during the preceding night, except from the guard about our own camp; from a supposition that our services could well be spared.  Application was therefore made by a few of us, for permission to accompany the Major, who had determined to go on to the Fresno head-quarters.  When consent was given, the wish was so generally expressed, that Captain Boling with nine men to act as camp guard, volunteered to remain, if Major Savage would allow the hungry "boys" to ride with him.  The Major finally assented to the proposition, saying: "I do not suppose the Indians can be driven off, or be induced to leave until they have had the feast I promised them; besides, they will want to see some of the commissioner's finery.  I have been delighting their imaginations with descriptions of the presents in store for them."</P>
135.sgm:<P>When the order was passed for the hungry squad to fall in, we mounted with grateful feelings towards Captain Boling, and the "boys" declared that the Major was a trump, for his consideration of our need.  With the prospect of a good "square" meal, and the hope of a genial "smile" from our popular commissary, the time soon passed, and the distance seemed shortened, for we entered the Fresno camp before our anticipations were cloyed.  Head-quarters was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:well supplied with all needful comforts, and was not totally deficient in luxuries.  Our Quarter-Master and Commissary was active in his duties, and as some good woman say of their husbands, "He was a good provider."  We had no reason to complain of our reception; our urgent requirements were cheerfully met.  The fullness of our entertainment did not prevent a good night's rest, nor interfere with the comfortable breakfast which we enjoyed.  While taking coffee, the self denial of Captain Boling and his volunteer guard was not forgotten.  Arrangements were made to furnish the best edible and potable stores, that could be secured from our conscientious and prudent commissary.  We were determined to give them a glorious reception; but--the Captain did not bring in his captives!  Major Savage sent out a small detachment to ascertain the cause of the delay.  This party filled their haversacks with comforts for the "Indian guard."  After some hours of delay, the Major became anxious to hear from Captain Boling, and began to be suspicious that something more serious than the loss of his animals, was the cause of not sending in a messenger, and he ordered out another detachment large enough to meet any supposed emergency.  Not far from camp, they met the Captain and his nine men (the " <HI REND="italics">Indian guard</HI>
135.sgm: ") and <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After Captain Boling had made his report to the Major, and made all explanations to the commissioners, and when he had refreshed himself with an extra ration or two of the potable liquid, that by special stipulation had been reserved for the "Indian Guard," something of his old humor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The Captain said: "Soon after you left us last night, one of my men, who was out hunting when we camped, came in with a deer he had killed just at the dusk of the evening.  From this we made a hearty supper, and allowed the youth who had helped to bring in the deer to share in the meat.  The Indian cooked the part given to him at our fire, and ate with the avidity of a famished wolf.  This excited comment, and anecdotes followed of the enormous appetites displayed by some of them.  The question was then raised, `how much can this Indian eat at one meal?'  I suggested that a fair trial could not be had with only one deer.  Our hunter said he would give him a preliminary trial, and when deer were plenty we could then test his full capacity, if he should prove a safe one to bet on.  He then cut such pieces as we thought would suffice for our breakfast, and, with my approval, gave the remainder to his boy, who was anxiously watching his movements.  I consented to this arrangement, not as a test of his capacity, for I had often seen a hungry Indian eat, but as a reward for his services in bringing in the deer on his shoulders.  He readily re-commenced his supper, and continued to feast until every bone was cracked and picked.  When the last morsel of the venison had disappeared he commenced a doleful sing-song, `Way-ah-we-ha-ha, Wah-ah-we-ha-ha' to some unknown deity, or, if I was to judge from my ear of the music, it must have been his prayer to the devil, for I have heard that it is a part of their worship.  His song was soon echoed from the camp where all seemed contentment.  After <HI REND="italics">consoling</HI>
135.sgm:<P>"The performance being over, I told my men to take their sleep and I would watch, as I was not sleepy; if I wanted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>"No one can imagine my surprise and mortification when I was called and told that the Indian camp was entirely deserted, and that none were to be seen except the one asleep by our camp fire.  My indifference to placing a guard over the Indian camp will probably always be a mystery to me, but it most likely saved our lives, for if we had attempted to restrain them, and you know us well enough to believe we would not have let them off without a fight; they would probably have pretty well used us up.  As it was, we did not give them up without an effort.  We saddled our horses and started in chase, thinking that as while with us, their women and children would retard their progress, and that we would soon overtake them.  We took the young brave with us, who had slept by our fire.  He knew nothing of the departure of his people, and was very much alarmed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>"We pursued until the trail showed that they had scattered in every direction in the brushy ravines and on the rocky side of a mountain covered with undergrowth, where we could not follow them with our animals.  Chagrined and disgusted with myself for my negligence, and my inability to recover any part of my charge, and considering farther pursuit useless, we turned about and took the trail to head-quarters with our one captive."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Major Savage took the youngster under his charge, and flattered him by his conversations and kindly treatment.  The Commissioners lionized him somewhat; he was gaily clothed and ornamented, loaded with presents for his own family relations, and was given his liberty and permitted to leave camp at his leisure, and thus departed the last of the "grand caravan" of some three hundred and fifty "captives," men, women and children, which we had collected and escorted from the mountains.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The sight of the one hundred brought to them by Captain Dill, and his report that we were coming with about three hundred and fifty more, aroused sanguine hopes in the commission that the war was over, and that their plans had been successful.  "Now that the <HI REND="italics">prisoners</HI>
135.sgm:<P>To a military man, this lack of discipline and precaution--through which the Indians escaped--will seem unpardonable; and an officer who, like our Captain, should leave his camp unguarded, under any circumstances, would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>In this case Captain Boling was not apprehensive of danger to those under his charge.  His excessive good nature and good will toward his men prompted him to allow, even to command them, to take the sleep and rest that an irregular diet, and the labor of hunting while on the march, had seemed to require.  No one had a keener sense of his error than himself.  The whole command sympathized with him--notwithstanding the ludicrous aspect of the affair--their finer feelings were aroused by his extreme regrets.  They determined that if opportunities offered, he should have their united aid to wipe out this stigma.  Major Savage was deceived by the child-like simplicity with which the Indians had been talking to him of the feast expected, and of the presents they would soon receive from the commissioners.  He did not suppose it possible that they would make an attempt to escape, or such a number would not have been left with so small a guard.  We had men with us who knew what discipline was, who had been trained to obey orders without hesitation.  Men who had fought under Col. Jack Hays, Majors Ben McCullough and Mike Chevallia, both in Indian and Mexican warfare, and they considered themselves well posted.  Even these men were mistaken in their opinions.  The sudden disappearance of the Indians, was as much a surprise to them as to our officers.</P>
135.sgm:<P>With a view to solving this mystery Vow-ches-ter was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The reasons given by those who returned for their flight, were that just before daylight on the morning of their departure Chow-chilla runners (as had been surmised by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>In reply to the statements that they had been treated by the whites as friends, the Chow-chillas answered sneeringly that the whites were not fools to forgive them for killing their friends and relatives, and taking their property, and said their scouts had seen a large mounted force that was gathering in the foot-hills and on the plains, who would ride over them if they ventured into the open ground of the reservation, or encampment at the plains.  This caused great alarm.  They expected destruction from the whites, and in the excitement caused by the Chow-chillas, threatened to kill Captain Boling and his men, and for that purpose reconnoitered the Captain's camp.  The Chow-chillas dissuaded them from the attempt, saying: "The white men always sleep on their guns, and they will alarm the white soldiers below by their firing, and bring upon you a mounted force before you could reach a place of safety."</P>
135.sgm:<P>The young fellow that was asleep in Boling's camp was not missed until on the march; his appearance among them gaily clothed, after being kindly treated, very much aided Vow-ches-ter in his statement of the object of the council and treaty to be held.  The runaways told the commissioners that they felt very foolish, and were ashamed that they had been so readily deceived; they also expressed a wish that we would punish the Chow-chillas, for they had caused all the trouble.  The reception they received soon satisfied them that they had nothing to fear.  They were given food and clothing, and their good fortune was made known to other bands, and soon all of the tribes in the vicinity made treaties or sent messengers to express their willingness to do so, excepting the Chow-chillas and Yosemites.  Even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Major Savage, though still in command of the battalion, now devoted most of his time to the commissioners; and the energy with which our campaigns had opened, seemed to be somewhat abating.  The business connected with the treaties was transacted principally through his interpretation, though at times other interpreters were employed.  The mission interpreters only translated the communications made in the Indian dialects into Spanish; these were then rendered into English by Spanish interpreters employed by the commission.</P>
135.sgm:<P>A pretty strong detail of men was now placed on duty at head-quarters on the Fresno, principally drawn from Captain Dill's Company.  Adjutant Lewis had really no duties in the field, nor had he any taste or admiration for the snowy mountains-- <HI REND="italics">on foot</HI>
135.sgm:.  His reports were written up at head-quarters, as occasion required, and often long after the events had transpired to which they related.  I was an amused observer upon one occasion, of Major Savage's method of making out an <HI REND="italics">official</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Campaign against the Chow-chillas--The Favorite Hunting Ground--A Deer Hunt and a Bear <HI REND="italics">Chase</HI>
135.sgm:<P>MAJOR SAVAGE now advised a vigorous campaign against the Chow-chillas.  The stampeding of our captives was one of the incentives for this movement; or at least, it was for this reason that Captain Boling and his company most zealously advocated prompt action.  The commissioners approved of the plan, and decided that as the meddlesome interference of these Indians prevented other bands from coming in, it was necessary, if a peace policy was to be maintained with other tribes, that this one be made to feel the power they were opposing; and that an expedition of sufficient strength to subdue them, should be ordered immediately to commence operations against them.  Accordingly, a force composed of B. and C. companies, Boling's and Dill's numbering about one hundred men, under command of Major Savage, started for the San Joaquin River.  The route selected was by way of "Coarse Gold Gulch," to the head waters of the Fresno, and thence to the North Fork of the San Joaquin.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The object in taking this circuitous route, was to sweep the territory of any scattered bands that might infest it.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I saw but little of interest, for at the time, I doubted the antiquity of the figures.  Subsequently, in conversation with Major Savage he said that the figures had probably been traced by ancient Indians, as the present tribes had no knowledge of the representations.  I afterwards asked Sandino and other Mission Indians concerning them, but none could give me any information.  The scouts sent out were instructed to rendezvous near a double fall on the north fork of the San Joaquin in a little valley through which the trail led connecting with that of the north fork, as grass would there be found abundant.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Major Savage was familiar with most of the permanent trails in this region, as he had traversed it in his former prospecting tours.  As we entered the valley selected for our camping place, a flock of sand-hill cranes rose from it with their usual persistent yells; and from this incident, their name was affixed to the valley, and is the name by which it is now known.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The scouts, who were watching on the trail below, soon discovered and joined us.  "It is a little early for camping," the Major said; "but at this season, good grass can only be found in the mountains in certain localities.  Here there is an abundance, and soap root enough to wash a regiment."</P>
135.sgm:<P>We fixed our camp on the West side of the little valley, about half a mile from the double falls.  These falls had nothing peculiarly attractive, except as a designated point for a rendezvous.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The stream above the falls was narrow and very rapid, but below, it ran placidly for some distance through rich meadow land.  The singularity of the fall was in its being double; the upper one only three or four feet, and the lower one, which was but a step below, about ten or twelve feet.  In my examination of the locality, I was impressed with the convenience with which such a water-power could be utilized for mechanical purposes, if the supply of water would but prove a permanent one.</P>
135.sgm:<P>From this camp, new scouts were sent out in search of Indians and their trails; while a few of us had permission to hunt within a mile of camp.  While picketing our animals, I observed the flock of sand-hill cranes again settling down some way above us, and started with Wm. Hays to get a shot at them.  We were not successful in getting within range; having been so recently alarmed, they were suspiciously on the look out, and scenting our approach, they left the valley.  Turning to the eastward, we were about entering a small ravine leading to the wooded ridge on the Northwest side of the Fork, when we discovered two deer ascending the slope, and with evident intention of passing through the depression in the ridge before us.</P>
135.sgm:<P>They were looking <HI REND="italics">back</HI>
135.sgm: on their trail, assurance enough that <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
135.sgm: had not been seen.  We hurriedly crept up the ravine to head them off, and waited for their approach.  Hays became nervous, and as he caught a glimpse of the leader, he hastily said, "Here they come--both of them--I'll take the buck!"  Assenting to his arrangement, we both fired as they rose in full view.  The doe fell almost in her tracks.  The buck made a bound or two up the ridge and disappeared.  While loading our rifles Hays exclaimed, as if in disgust, "A miss, by jingoes! that's a fact."  I replied, not so, old fellow, you hit him hard; he switched his tail desperately; you will see him again."  We found him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I was at first inclined to be angry, but replied, "Hays, I am much obliged to you for the good opinion you have had of me, but I know what grizzlies are.  <HI REND="italics">I am afraid of grizzlies unless I have every advantage of them</HI>
135.sgm:; and don't think it would be any proof of courage to follow them in there."  Hays reached out his hand as he said: "If that is your corner stake, we will go back to camp."  We shook hands, and that question was settled between us.  Afterwards Hays told of his experience among Polar bears, and I rehearsed some of mine among cinnamon and grizzly bears, and he replied that after all he thought "we had acted wisely in letting the latter remain undisturbed.  When in the brush they seemed to know their advantage, and were more likely to attack, whereas at other times, they would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Taking the back trail, we soon reached camp, and with our horses brought in the game before dark.  While entering camp, several of our men rushed by with their rifles.  Looking back across the open valley on our own trail, I saw a man running toward us as if his life depended on his speed.  His long hair was fairly streaming behind as he rushed breathless into camp, without hat, shoes or gun.  When first seen, the "boys" supposed the Chow-chillas were after him, but no pursuers appeared in sight.  As soon as he was able to talk, he reported that he had left the squad of hunters he had gone out with, and was moving along the edge of a thicket on his way to camp, when he struck the trail of three grizzlies.  Having no desire to encounter them, he left their trail, but suddenly came upon them while endeavoring to get out of the brush.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Before he could raise his rifle, they rushed toward him.  He threw his hat at the one nearest, and started off at a lively gait.  Glancing back, he saw two of them quarreling over his old hat; the other was so close that he dare not shoot, but dropped his gun and ran for life.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Fortunately, one of his shoes came off, and the bear stopped to examine and tear it in pieces, and here no doubt discontinued the chase, as he was not seen afterwards, though momentarily expected by the hunter in his flight to camp.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The hero of this adventure was a Texan, that was regarded by those who knew him best as a brave man, but upon this occasion he was without side arms, and, as he said, "was taken at a disadvantage."  The Major joked him a little upon his <HI REND="italics">continued</HI>
135.sgm: speed, but "Texas Joe" took it in good part, and replied that the Major, "or any <HI REND="italics">other</HI>
135.sgm: blank fool, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>We considered his escape a most remarkable one.</P>
135.sgm:<P>A little after dark all the scouts came in, and reported that no Indians had been seen, nor very fresh signs discovered, but that a few tracks were observed upon the San Joaquin trail.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The news was not encouraging, and some were a little despondent, but as usual, a hearty supper and the social pipe restored the younger men to their thoughtless gayety.  My recollections bring to mind many pleasant hours around the camp-fires of the "Mariposa Battalion."  Many of the members of that organization were men of more than ordinary culture and general intelligence; but they had been led out from civilization into the golden tide, and had acquired a reckless air and carriage, peculiar to a free life in the mountains of California.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The beauty of the little valley in which we were camped had so attracted my attention, that while seated by the campfire in the evening, enjoying my meal, I spoke of it in the general conversation, and found that others had discovered a "claim" for a future rancho, if the subjection of the Indians should make it desirable.  The scouts mentioned the fact of there being an abundance of game as far as they had been, but that of course they dare not shoot, lest the Indians might be alarmed.  These men were provided with venison by Hays and myself, while many a squirrel, jack rabbit, quail and pigeon was spitted and roasted by other less fortunate hunters.  Our deer were divided among immediate friends and associates, and Captain Boling slyly remarked that "the Major's appetite is about as good as an Indian's."  Major Savage seemed to enjoy the conversation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I now thought I had a turn on the Major, for he was quite enthusiastic, and I said: "Major, you have made out another Indian Paradise; I thought you a skeptic."  With a smile as if in remembrance of our conversation in the Yosemite, he replied: "Doc, I don't believe these Chow-chilla devils will leave here without a fight, for they seem to be concentrating; but we are going to drive them out with a `flaming brand.'  I think we shall find some of them to-morrow, if we expect good luck."  Turning to Captain Boling he continued, "Captain, we must make an early move in the morning; and to-morrow we must be careful not to flush our game before we get within rifle-shot.  You had better caution the guards to be vigilant, for we may have a visit from their scouts to-night, if only to stampede our horses."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Taking this as a hint that it was time to turn in, I rolled myself in my blankets.  My sleep was not delayed by any thoughts of danger to the camp, --though I would have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Sandino, the Mission Indian interpreter, had just come in from head-quarters, guiding an escort that had been sent for the Major.  The Sergeant in command handed a letter to Savage, who, after reading it at the camp fire, remarked to Captain Boling, "the commissioners have sent for me to come back to head-quarters; we will talk over matters in the morning, after we have had our sleep."  He was snoring before I slept again.</P>
135.sgm:<P>In the morning Major Savage stated that he had been sent for by the Commissioners to aid in treating with a delegation of Kah-we-ah Indians sent in by Capt. Kuykendall, and regretted to leave us just at that time, when we were in the vicinity of the game we were after.  That we would now be under the command of Captain Boling, etc.  The Major made us a nice little speech.  It was short, and was the only one he ever made to us.  He then drew an outline map of the country, and explained to Captain Boling the course and plans he had adopted, but which were to be varied as the judgment of the Captain should deem to his advantage.  He repeatedly enjoined the Captain to guard against surprise, by keeping scouts in advance and upon flank.</P>
135.sgm:<P>He then said he should leave Sandino with us, and told me that Spencer and myself would be expected to act as interpreters, otherwise Captain Boling could not make Sandino available as a guide or interpreter, as he cannot speak a word of English.</P>
135.sgm:<P>"As surgeon to the expedition, I will see that you are paid extra.  The endurance of those appointed, has been tried and found wanting; therefore I preferred to leave them behind."  The Major then left us for head-quarters, which he would reach before night.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling crossed the North Fork below the falls, but after a few horses had passed over the trail, the bottom land became almost impassable.  As I had noticed an old trail that crossed just above the falls, I shouted to the rear guard to follow me, and started for the upper crossing, which I reached some little distance in advance.  Spurring my mule I dashed through the stream.  As she scrambled up the green sod of the slippery shore I was just opening my mouth for a triumphant whoop, when the sod from the overhanging bank gave way under the hind feet of the mule, and, before she could recover, we slipped backwards into the stream, and were being swept down over the falls.  Comprehending the imminent peril, I slipped from my saddle with the coil of my "riata" clasped in hand (fortunately I had acquired the habit of leaving the rope upon the mule's neck), and, by an effort, I was able to reach the shore with barely length of rope enough to take one turn around a sappling and then one or two turns around the rope, and by this means I was able to arrest the mule in her progress, with her hind legs projecting over the falls, where she remained, her head held out of the water by the rope.  I held her in this position until my comrades came up and relieved me, and the mule from her most pitiable position.  This was done by attaching another rope, by means of which it was drawn up the stream to the shore, where she soon recovered her feet and was again ready for service.  Not so my medicines and surgical instruments, which were attached to the saddle.</P>
135.sgm:<P>While Captain Boling was closing up his scattered command, I took the opportunity to examine my damaged stores and wring out my blankets.  Being thus engaged, and out of sight of the main column, they moved on without us.  I hastily dried my instruments, and seeing that my rifle had also suffered, I hastily discharged and reloaded it.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>We soon overtook the command which was following the main trail to the upper San Joaquin.  Crossing the affluent tributaries of the North Fork, we finally reached a branch now known as the Little San Joaquin.  Here we again camped for the third time since leaving head-quarters.  Lieutenant Chandler and a few of our most experienced scouts were detailed and sent out on duty.  Captain Boling with a small guard accompanied Chandler for some distance out on the trail, and after exploring the vicinity of the camp and taking a look at "Battle Mountain" to the westward of us, returned without having discovered any fresher signs than had been seen by the scouts.  That night the camp-guard was strengthened and relieved every hour, that there might be no relaxation of vigilance.  A little before daybreak, Lieutenant Chandler and his scouts came in, and reported that they had discovered a number of camp fires, and a big pow-wow, on the main San Joaquin river.  Satisfied that Indians were there assembled in force, and that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The camp was quietly aroused, and after a hasty breakfast in the early dawn, we mounted.  Before giving the order to march, Captain Boling thought it advisable to give us a few words of caution and general orders in case we should suddenly meet the enemy and engage in battle.  Thinking it would be more impressive if delivered in a formal manner, he commenced: "Fellow citizens!" (a pause,) "fellow soldiers!" (a longer pause,) "comrades," tremulously; but instantly recovering himself, promptly said: "In <HI REND="italics">conclusion</HI>
135.sgm:<P>No better or braver man rode with our battalion.  His popularity was an appreciation of his true merit.  On this occasion he was conscious of the responsibility of his position, and, for a moment his modesty overcame him.  Although his <HI REND="italics">speech</HI>
135.sgm: lacked the ready flow of language, it eloquently expressed to his men the feelings of their Captain, and we comprehended what he designed to say.<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm: A short ride brought us in sight of the main river.  As we drew near to it a party of about one hundred Indians were discovered drawn up as if to give us battle, but we soon found their line had been established on the <HI REND="italics">opposite</HI>
135.sgm: side of the stream! while the swelling torrent between us seemed impassable.  Our scouts discovered a bark rope stretched across the river, just above the mouth of the South Fork, which had been quite recently used.  Their scouts had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">In some way unaccountable to me, this speech appears in my article in Hutching's work, as if delivered before the fight at "Battle Mountain."</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>Two of our best swimmers crossed the river above the narrows, and pulled our rope across by means of the bark one.  To protect the men on the opposite side, Captain Middleton, Joel H. Brooks, John Kenzie and a few other expert riflemen, stood guard over them.  A float was made of dry logs while the rope was being placed in position, and this was attached to the one across the stream by means of a rude pulley made from the crotch of a convenient sapling.  By this rude contrivance, we crossed to and fro without accident.  The horses and baggage were left on the right bank in charge of a small but select camp guard.  As we commenced the ascent of the steep aclivity to the table above, where we had seen the Indians apparently awaiting our approach, great care was taken to keep open order.  We momentarily expected to receive the fire of the enemy.  The hill-side was densely covered with brush, and we cautiously threaded our march up through it, until we emerged into the open ground at the crest of the hill.  Here, not an Indian was in sight to welcome or threaten our arrival.  They had probably fled as soon as they witnessed our crossing.  Captain Boling felt disappointed; but immediately sent out an advance skirmish line, while we moved in closer order upon the village in sight, which we afterwards <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>While entering the village, we had observed upon a little knoll, the remnant of what had been a large fire; a bed of live coals and burning brands of manzanita-wood still remained.  The ground about it indicated that there had been a large gathering for a burial-dance and feast, and for other rites due the departed; and therefore, I surmised that there had been a funeral ceremony to honor the remains of some distinguished member of the tribe.  I had the curiosity to examine the heap and found that I was correct.  On raking open the ashes of the funeral-pyre, the calcined bones were exposed, along with trinkets and articles of various kinds, such as arrow-heads of different shapes and sizes, for the chase and for warfare; a knife-blade, a metal looking-glass frame, beads and other articles melted into a mass.  From these indications--having a knowledge of Indian customs--I inferred that the deceased was probably a person of wealth and distinction in Indian society.  Calling Sandino to the spot, I pointed out to him my discoveries.  Devoutly crossing himself, he looked at the mass I had raked from the ashes, and exclaimed: "Jose Rey, ah! he is dead!"  I asked how he knew that it was the body of Jose Rey that had been burned.  He said: (picking up the knife-blade) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Sandino was or had been a Mission Indian, and prided himself on being a good Catholic.  I asked him why the Indians burnt the bodies of their dead.  He replied after devoutly crossing himself, for no Indian will willingly speak of their dead.  "The Gentiles (meaning the wild Indians) burn the bodies to liberate the spirit from it."  After again crossing himself, "We being Christians by the favor of God, are not compelled to do this duty to our dead.  They enter into the spirit-world through the virtue of the blood of Christ;" then with his face gleaming with religious fervor, he said, "Oh! is not this a great blessing-- <HI REND="italics">no labor, no pain, and where all have plenty</HI>
135.sgm:<P>My experience among other Indians, particularly the Sioux, Chippewa, and other tribes that have long had missionaries among them, leads me to the conclusion that Sandino's views of Christianity will not be found to differ materially from those of many others <HI REND="italics">converted</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Our scouts reported that the fresh trails followed by them led to the main trail up the can&tilde;on of the river.  Everything having been set on fire that would burn, we followed in pursuit toward the "High Sierras."  Before starting the scouts that had gone up the South Fork can&tilde;on were called in, and we lightened our haversacks by taking a hasty but hearty lunch.  We followed the trail continuously up, passed a rocky, precipitous point, that had terminated in a ridge at the rear of the village, and pursuing it rapidly for several miles, we suddenly found that the traces we had been following disappeared.  We came to a halt, and retracing our steps, soon found that they had left the trail at some bare rocks, but it was impossible to trace them farther in any direction.  Sandino expressed the opinion that the Indians had crossed the river; and pointing across the foaming rapids said: "They have gone there!"  He was denounced by the scouts for this assertion, and they swore that "an otter would drown if he attempted to swim in such a place."  Captain Boling asked: "Is he a coward afraid of an ambush, or is he trying to shield his people by discouraging our advance?"  After Spencer and myself had talked with him a few moments, we both expressed our faith in his loyalty, and told the Captain that we thought he was sincere in the opinion expressed, that the Indians had crossed to the other side.  I stated that I did not think it impossible for them to do so, as they were all most excellent swimmers.  That I had seen the Yumas of the Colorado river dive, time after time, and bring up fish caught with their bare hands, and perform other seemingly impossible feats.  I would not, therefore, denounce Sandino without some proof of treachery.  Captain Boling was not convinced, however, by my statements.  It was decided that the Chow-chil-las had not crossed the river, and that we should probably find their trail further on.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>With scouts in advance, we resumed our march up the can&tilde;on.  The trail was rough, and, in places, quite precipitous; but we followed on until reaching a point in the canon where we should expect to find " <HI REND="italics">signs</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After looking at the signal fires for some time, Captain Boling said: "Gentlemen, there is one thing I can beat these fellows at, and that is in building fires.  We will go back to the crossing, and from there commence a new campaign.  We will build fires all over the mountains, so that these Indians will no longer recognize their own signals.  We will make ours large enough to burn all the acorns and other provender we can find.  In a word, we are forced into a mode of warfare unsuited to my taste or manhood, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>There is no point in the mountains more easy to defend than their village.  It was located most admirably.  If they had the fight in them, that was claimed by Major Savage and the Indians at head-quarters, we could never have crossed the river or approached their village.  Their courage must have died with Jose Rey.  His courage must have been supposed to be that of the tribe.  They have become demoralized, being left without the energy of the chief.  Their warlike nature is a humbug.  Talk about these Indians defeating and driving back the Spanish Californians, after raiding their ranches, as has been told!  If they did, they must have driven back bigger cowards than themselves, who have run away without even leaving a trail by which they can be followed.  I don't believe it."  The Captain delivered this serio-comic discourse while seated on a rock, with most inimitable drollery; and at my suggestion that they might perhaps yet show themselves, he replied rather impatiently: "Nonsense, they will not exhibit themselves to-day!" and with this convincing remark, he ordered our return.</P>
135.sgm:<P>As we filed away from the narrow gorge, those left in rear reported "Indians!"  Instinctively turning, we discovered on the <HI REND="italics">opposite</HI>
135.sgm: side of the river, a half dozen or more, not encumbered with any kind of garment.  A halt was called, and Chandler and a number of others instantly raised their rifles for a shot.  They were within range, for the can&tilde;on was here quite narrow, but the Captain promptly said: "No firing men! I am anxious for success, but would rather go back without a captive, than have one of those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The laugh of our men was parried by the Captain, and although annoyed by this unexpected demonstration, he laughingly remarked that he had never before been so <HI REND="italics">peculiarly</HI>
135.sgm: applauded for anything he had ever said.  The absurdity of the scene restored us all to a better humor.  Again the order was given to march, and we resumed our course down the can&tilde;on, with the renewed demonstrations of the Indians.  The orders of the Captain alone prevented a return <HI REND="italics">salute</HI>
135.sgm:<P>At the precipice, which we had so guardedly passed on our way up the can&tilde;on, we came near losing our Captain.  In passing this locality he made a mis-step, and slipped towards the yawning abyss at the foot of the cliff; but for a small pine that had been "moored in the rifted rock," no earthly power could have saved him from being dashed to the bottom.  He fortunately escaped with some severe bruises, a lacerated elbow and a sprained wrist.  This accident and our tired and disappointed condition, gave a more serious appearance to our line, and a more sombre tone to our conversations than was usual.  We reached camp in a condition, however, to appreciate the supper prepared by our guard.</P>
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135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>A Camp Discussion--War or Police Clubs--Jack Regrets a Lost Opportunity--Boling's Soothing Syrup--A Scribe Criticises and Apologises--Indian War Material and its Manufacture--The Fire-stick and its Sacred Uses--Arrival at Head-quarters.</P>
135.sgm:<P>IT was not until after we had partaken of a hearty supper and produced our pipes, that the lively hum of conversation and the occasional careless laughter indicated the elastic temperament of some of the hardy, light-hearted, if not light-headed, "boys," while in camp.  The guard was duly detailed, and the signal given to turn in, but not authoritatively; and tired as we were, many of us sat quite late around the camp-fires on that evening.  The excitements and disappointments of our recent excursion did not prove to be promoters of sleep; some of us were too tired to sleep until we had somewhat rested from our unusual fatigue.  The events of the day--the <HI REND="italics">true method of subduing Indians</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>We had expected that this tribe would resist our invasion of their territory and show fight.  In this we had been disappointed.  The self-confident and experienced mountain men, and the ex-rangers from the Texan plains, felt annoyed that these Indians had escaped when almost within range of our rifles.  Our feelings--as a military organization--were irritated by the successful manner in which they had eluded our pursuit, and thrown us from their trail.  <HI REND="italics">We had been outwitted by these ignorant Indians</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The energetic Lieutenant was our most rigid disciplinarian when on duty.  His fearless impetuosity in the execution of all his duties, made him a favorite with the more reckless spirits; his blunt and earnest manner excited their admiration; for, though possessed of a sublime egotism, he was entirely free from arrogance.  Instead of his usual cheerful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:and agreeable conversation, he was almost morosely taciturn; he refilled his capacious mouth with choice Virginia, and settled back against the wood-pile.  After listening to us for a while, he said: "I am heartily sick of this Quaker-style of subduing Indians.  So far, --since our muster-in--we have had plenty of hard work and rough experience, with no honor or profit attending it all.  We might as well be armed with clubs like any other police."  There was none in our group disposed to dispute the assertion of Chandler.  As a body, we were anxiously desirous of bringing the Indian troubles to a close as soon as it could be practically accomplished.  Many of us had suffered pecuniarily from the depredations of these Mountain tribes, and had volunteered to aid in subduing them, that we might be able to resume our mining operations in peace.  Many of us had left our own profitable private business to engage in these campaigns for the public good, expecting that a vigorous prosecution of the war would soon bring it to a close.  I will here say that some sensational newspaper correspondents took it upon themselves to condemn this effort made by the settlers to control these mountain tribes, which had become so dangerous; charging the settlers with having excited a war, and to have involved the government in an unneccessary expense, for the purpose of reaping pecuniary benefits; and that our battalion had been organized to afford occupation to adventurous idlers, for the pay afforded.  Knowing the ignorance that obtains in regard to real Indian character, and the mistaken philanthropy that would excuse and probably even protect and lionize murderers, because they were <HI REND="italics">Indians</HI>
135.sgm:; but little attention was at first paid to these falsely slanderous articles, until one was published, so personally offensive, and with such a false basis of statement, that Captain Boling felt it his duty to call for the name of its author.  His name was given by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:the editor of the paper on a formal demand being made.  The Captain then <HI REND="italics">intimated</HI>
135.sgm:<P>At an adjoining fire a long-haired Texan was ventilating his professed experience in the management of Indians "down thar."  Observing that Captain Boling was within hearing of his criticism, he turned, and without any intentional disrespect, said: "Cap., you orter a let me plunk it to one o' them red skins up in the can&tilde;on thar.  I'd a bin good for one, sure; and if I'd a had my way o treatin' with Injuns, Cap., I reckon I'd a made a few o' them squawk by this time."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling was suffering from his bruises and sprained wrist, and he evidently was not pleased to hear these liberal criticisms, but knowing the element by which he was surrounded, he did not forget the policy of conciliating it in order to prevent any feelings of discontent from arising so soon after having assumed full command.  He therefore quickly replied: "I have no especial regard for these Chow-chillas; you are probably aware of that, Jack; but the orders and instructions of the Commissioners will have to be disregarded if we shoot them down at sight.  It would have been almost like deliberate murder to have killed those naked Indians to-day, because, Jack, you know <HI REND="italics">just</HI>
135.sgm: what you can do with that rifle of yours.  If you had fired you knew you was sure to kill; but the Indians did not know the danger there was in coming inside your range.  It was lucky for the cowards that you did not shoot."  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling sat for some time apparently watching the blazing logs before him.  He took no part in the discussion of Indian affairs, which continued to be the engrossing subject among the wakeful ones, whose numbers gradually diminished until Spencer and one or two others beside myself only remained at our fire.  The Captain then said: "I do not despair of success in causing this tribe to make peace, although I cannot see any very flattering prospects of our being able to corral them, or force an immediate surrender.  They do not seem inclined to fight us, and we cannot follow them among the rocks in those almost impassable can&tilde;ons with any probability of taking them.  Bare-footed they rapidly pass without danger over slippery rocks that we, leather-shod, can only pass at the peril of our lives.  My mishap of to-day is but a single illustration of many that would follow were we to attempt to chase them along the dizzy heights they pass over.  Being lightly clad, or not at all, they swim the river to and fro at will, and thus render futile any attempt to pursue them up the river, unless we divide the force and beat up on both sides at the same time.  I have thought this matter over, and have reached the conclusion that, unless some lucky accident throws them into our hands, I see but one course to pursue, and that is to destroy their camps and supplies, and then return to head-quarters."</P>
135.sgm:<P>After having had the bandages arranged on his swollen arm he bade us good night, and sought such repose as his bruised limbs and disappointed ambition would permit.  Having ended our discussions, we came to the sage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The next morning the usual jocular hilarity seemed to prevail in camp.  A refreshing slumber had seemingly given renewed vigor to the tired explorers of the rough trail up the can&tilde;on.  The camp guard assigned to duty at "our ferry" were on duty during the night, so that the breakfast call was promptly responded to with appetites unimpaired.  Captain Boling's arm was dressed and found to be somewhat improved in appearance, though very sore.  He would not consent to remain in camp, and ordered his horse to be saddled after breakfast.  Before the morning sun had risen we were in our saddles, endeavoring to explore the region north of the San Joaquin.  Small detachments were detailed from both companies to explore, on foot, up the South Fork, and the territory adjacent.  Upon the return of this command, their report showed that quite a large number of Indians had passed over that stream, though none were seen.  A considerable supply of acorns was found and destroyed by this expedition; but after they left the oak table-land, near the fork, they reported the country to the east to be about as forbidding as that on the main river.  Captain Boling detailed a few footmen to scatter over the country on the north side, to burn any <HI REND="italics">cache&acute;s</HI>
135.sgm: they might find, while we on horseback swept farther north, towards the Black Ridge.  We found the soil soft and yielding, and in places it was with difficulty that our weak, grass-fed animals could pass over the water-soaked land, even after we had dismounted.  I thought this boggy ground, hard enough later in the season, another obstacle to a successful pursuit, and so expressed myself to the Captain.  I told him that in '49 I stayed over night with Mr. Livermore of the Livermore Pass, and that now I fully comprehended why he thought the mountain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CACHES OR INDIAN ACORN STOREHOUSES.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Livermore said he had followed up several raiding parties of Indians who were driving off stock they had stolen from the Ranchos, but only upon one occasion did they make a bold stand, when his party was driven back, overcome by numbers.  Captain Boling was silent for some time, and then said: "Perhaps after all I have done these Indians injustice in calling them cowards; probably they feel that they are not called upon to fight and lose any of their braves, when by strategy they can foil and elude us.  Human nature is about alike in war as in other things; it is governed by what it conceives to be its interest."</P>
135.sgm:<P>There were in the country we passed over, some beautiful mountain meadows and most luxuriant forests, and some of the sloping table lands looked like the ornamental parks of an extensive domain.  These oak-clad tables and ridges, were the harvest fields of the San Joaquin Indians, and in their vicinity we found an occasional group of deserted huts.  These, with their adjacent supplies of acorns, were at once given to the flames.  The acorns found and destroyed by the scouting parties, were variously estimated at from eight hundred to one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>From the total amount of acorns estimated to have been destroyed, their supplies were comparatively small, or the number of Indians on the San Joaquin had been, as in other localities, vastly overrated.  Our search was thoroughly made--the explorations from day to day, extending from our camps over the whole country to an altitude above the growth of the oaks.  During these expeditions, not an Indian was seen after those noticed on the upper San Joaquin; but fresh signs were often discovered and followed, only to be traced to the rocky can&tilde;ons above where, like deceptive " <HI REND="italics">ignes fatui</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Being allowed the largest liberty as surgeon to the expedition, I had ample time to examine the various things found in their camps, and obtain from Sandino all the information I could concerning them.  The stone arrow-heads and their manufacture, especially interested me.  I found considerable quantities of the crude material from which they were made, with many other articles brought from other localities, such as resin, feathers, skins, pumice-stone, salt, etc., used in the manufacture of their implements of war, and for the chase as well as for domestic uses.</P>
135.sgm:<P>At this time but few guns were in the possession of these mountain tribes.  Their chief weapons of war and for the chase were bows and arrows.  With these they were very expert at short range, and to make their weapons effective were disposed to lay in ambush in war, and upon the trails of their game.  Their bows were made from a species of yew peculiar to the West, from cedar and from a spinated evergreen tree, rare in Southern California, which, for want of scientific classification, I gave the name of "nutmeg <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:pine."  It bears a nut resembling in general appearance that agreeable spice, while the covering or pulpy shell looks very much like mace.  The nut is, however, strongly impregnated with resin.  The leaves are long, hard, and so sharp that the points will pierce the flesh like sharp steel.  The wood is stronger and more elastic than either the yew, cedar or fir.  It is susceptible of a fine polish.  I made a discovery of a small cluster of this species of tree at the foot of the cascades in the can&tilde;on, two miles below the Yosemite valley, while engaged in a survey of that locality.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1">I have learned through the kindness of Dr. A. Kellogg, of the California Academy of Sciences, that this tree is now known as the " <HI REND="italics">Torreya Californica</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The shafts of their arrows are made of reeds, and from different species of wood, but the choicest are made of what is called Indian arrow-wood (Le Hamite).  This wood is only found in dark ravines and deep rocky can&tilde;ons in the mountains, as it seems to require dampness and shade.  Its scarcity makes the young shoots of a proper growth a very valuable article of barter between the mountain tribes and those of the valleys and plains.  A locality in the Yosemite valley once famous for its supply of this arrow-wood, was the ravine called by the Yosemites "Le-Hamite," (as we might say "the oaks," or "the pines,") but which is now designated as "Indian Can&tilde;on."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Their arrow-shafts are first suitably shaped, and then polished between pieces of pumice stone.  This stone was also used in fashioning and polishing their bows, spear-shafts and war clubs.  Pumice stone is found in abundance in the volcanic regions of California and Oregon, and east of the Sierra Nevada.  The quality of the best observed by me, was much finer and lighter than that seen in the shops as an article of commerce.  The arrow heads are secured to the shaft by threads of sinew, and a species of cement used <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The Indians of California, unlike those of Southern Mexico and South America, who use the woorara (strychnos toxifera), poison their arrow-heads with the poison of the rattlesnake.  Some animal's liver is saturated with the poison and left until it reaches a state of thorough decomposition, when the barbs are plunged into the festering mass, withdrawn and dried.  The gelatinous condition of the liver causes the poison to adhere to the stone, and the strength of the poison is thus preserved for some days.  Only those arrow-heads that are inserted into a socket, and held in place by cement, are thus poisoned.  These are easily detached after striking an object (the concussion shattering the cement, and the play of the shaft loosening the barb), and are left to rankle in the wound.</P>
135.sgm:<P>According to Russio, however, this practice is now seldom resorted to, except in revenge for some great or fancied injury, or by the more malignant of a tribe, Indian policy seeming to discountenance a former custom.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The introduction of fire arms among them, has been from the frontiers of civilization.  The " <HI REND="italics">flint</HI>
135.sgm:," or more properly cherty rock, when first quarried, is brittle and readily split <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>With these instruments of various sizes laminated pieces of rock are separated, such as slate, with quartz in filtrations, and scales are chipped from rocks, volcanic and other glass, with a skill that challenges admiration.  Stone hammers, or pieces of hard stone, were secured by withes and used in some of the processes of flaking; and I have been assured that steel implements have been stolen from the miners and used for the same purpose, but I never saw them used.  Arrow-heads were found, made from bones, from chert, obsidian or volcanic glass, and even old junk bottles, obtained for the purpose, during their gushing days, from the deserted camps of the libative miners.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The most approved fire-arms are now found among many of the western tribes, where but a few years ago bows and arrows were in common use.  Although these hereditary implements of war and of the chase are almost wholly discarded, occasionally an old-fashioned Indian may be seen, armed with his bow and arrows, his fire-stick a foot long, occupying the hole punctured in the lobe of one ear, and his reed-pipe filling the like position in the other, while his skunk-skin pouch contained his kin-ne-kin-nick, a piece of spunk and dry charred cedar, on which a light was obtained by rapid friction with his fire-stick.  This method of procuring fire, has, even among the Indians, been superseded by the flint and steel, and they in turn by the labor-saving friction matches.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I have, however, recently witnessed the process of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FIRE STICK AS USED.</P>
135.sgm:<P>During our explorations up the San Joaquin and branches, the rapidly melting snow on the mountains above flooded the streams which we were required to cross in our excursions, and we were often compelled from this cause to leave our horses and proceed on foot; hence our work was toilsome and slow.</P>
135.sgm:<P>As soon as Captain Boling was satisfied that we had accomplished, in this locality, all that could be expected of his command, we started for head-quarters.  The route selected for our return was by way of "Fine Gold Gulch," and down the San Joaquin to a camp opposite the site of Fort Miller, that was about being established for the protection of the settlers.  This was done upon recommendation of the commissioners.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Starvation subdues the Chow-chillas, and the Result is Peace--Captain Kuykendall's Expeditions--An Attack--Rout and Pursuit--A Wise Conclusion--Freezing out Indians--A wild Country--A terrific View--Yosemite <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
135.sgm:<P>A FEW days after our return from the campaign against the Chow-chil-las, a small delegation from a Kah-we-ah band on King's river was sent in by Captain Kuykendall, whose energy had subdued nearly all of the Indians in his department.  The chief of this band informed Major Savage that Tom-kit and Frederico, successors in authority to Jose Rey, had visited his camp, and had reported that they were very hungry.  They came, they said, to hold a council.  The chief told the Major that he had advised them to come in with him and make a treaty, but they refused.  They said the white man's "medicine" was too powerful for them; but if their great chief had not died, he would have driven the white men from the mountains, for he was "a heap wise."  The white soldiers had killed their great chief; they had killed many of their best warriors; they had burned up their huts and villages and destroyed their supplies, and had tried to drive their people from their territory, and they would kill their women and children if they did not hide them where they could not be found; and much more in a similar vein.</P>
135.sgm:<P>A small supply of acorns had been given these fugitives, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:and when the chief left, they had promised to return and hear what the commissioners had said.  Major Savage reported this, and with the commissioners' approval, decided to return with the Kah-we-ah chief and meet in counsel with the Chow-chil-las.  He took with him sufficient "beef" on foot to give the Indians a grand feast, which lasted several days; during which time arrangements were completed for treaties with all of the remaining bands of the Kah-we-ah tribe, and with the Chow-chillas.  The result of the Major's negotiations were in the highest degree satisfactory.  Captain Boling, however, claimed some of the honor, for, said he, I defeated the Chow-chillas by <HI REND="italics">firing at long range</HI>
135.sgm:<P>This once turbulent and uncompromising tribe became the most tractable of the mountain Indians.  They were superior in all respects to those of most other tribes.  They had intimate relations with the Monos, a light colored race as compared with the Valley or Kah-we-ah tribe, and were very expert in the manufacture and use of the bow and arrow.  The Mono's had intermarried with the Chow-chil-las, and they aided them in their intercourse with the Pah-u-tes in their barter for salt, obsidian, lava and other commodities.  The Chow-chil-las now being disposed of, and a treaty signed by the other tribes, it was decided by the commissioners that our next expedition should be against the Yo-sem-i-tes.  This had been recommended by Major Savage as the only practical method of effecting any terms with their old Chief.  Every inducement had been offered them that had been successful with the others; but had been treated with contempt.  The liberal supplies of beef they refused, saying they preferred horse-flesh.  The half-civilized garbs and gaudy presents tendered at the agency were scorned by Ten-ie-ya as being no recompense for relinquishing the freedom of his mountain home.  Major Savage announced that the expedition would start as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>While the companies of Captains Boling and Dill were exploring the vicinities of the Merced and San Joaquin in search of Indians, Captain Kuykendall, with the able support of his Lieutenants and his company, were actively engaged in the same duties south of the San Joaquin.  Captain Kuykendall vigorously operated in the valleys, foot-hills and mountains of the King's and Kah-we-ah rivers, and those of the smaller streams south.  The Indians of Kern river, owing to the influence of a mission Chief, "Don-Vincente," who had a plantation at the Tehon pass, remained peaceful, and were not disturbed.  The success of Captain Kuykendall's campaigns enabled the commissioners to make treaties with all the tribes within the Tulare valley, and those that occupied the region south of San Joaquin river.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Owing to lapse of time since these events, and other causes, I am unable to do justice to him, or the officers and men under him.  My personal recollections of the incidents of his explorations, were acquired while exchanging stories around camp fires.  Operating as they did, among the most inaccessible mountains in California, with but one company, they successfully accomplished the duties assigned them.</P>
135.sgm:<P>It was supposed that some of the tribes and bands among whom they were sent were extremely hostile to the whites, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:and that they would combine and resist their approach; but after a single engagement on King's river, the Indians were put to flight without the loss of a man, and could not be induced to hazard another like encounter.  The plans of operation were similar to those of Captains Boling and Dill: the destruction of the camps of all who refused to come in and have a talk with the commissioners.  Captain Kuykendall's company found these people almost without fire-arms and civilized clothing of any kind, and depending wholly on their bows and arrows.  Except in the vicinity of King's and Kah-we-ah rivers, the savages were scattered over a large range of country.  Their camps were generally in the valleys and among the foot-hills; when alarmed, they fled to the rocky can&tilde;ons among the mountains.  In one of our conversations, during a visit of Captain Kuykendall to the Fresno, he said: "When we first started out, we learned from our scouts and guides, that a large body of Indians had collected well up on King's river.  Making a rapid march, we found, on arriving in sight, that they were inclined to give us battle.  We at once charged into their camp, routed and killed a number, while others were ridden down and taken prisoners.  We followed the fugitives, making a running fight, until compelled to leave our horses, when they eluded pursuit.  Not yet discouraged, we followed on toward the head waters of the Kah-we-ah, seeing occasionally, upon a ridge just ahead of us, groups of Indians; but upon our reaching <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
135.sgm: locality, they were resting on the <HI REND="italics">next ridge</HI>
135.sgm:; and as we came into view, turned their backs upon us, applauding our efforts to overtake them, in a very <HI REND="italics">peculiar</HI>
135.sgm: manner.  They fled into a worse country than anything before seen in our explorations, and I soon perceived the folly of attempting to follow them longer.  As to this region east and southeast of the termination of our pursuit, I have only this to say, that it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:is simply indescribable.  I did not see any ` <HI REND="italics">dead Indians</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After this chase on foot into the "High Sierras," the operations of Capt. Kuykendall were more limited, for, as he had stated, he regarded it as the height of folly to attempt to follow the lightly-armed and lighter clad "hostiles" with cavalry, into their rocky mountain retreats.  In the saddle, except a few sailors in his company, his men felt at home, and were willing to perform any amount of severe duty, however dangerous or difficult it might be, but on foot, the Texans, especially, were like "Jack ashore, without anything to steer by."  When required to take a few days, provisions and their blankets on their backs, their efforts, like those our command, were not very effective, so far as catching the natives was concerned.  These foot expeditions were designed by the officers to keep the enemy alarmed, and in the cold regions, while their supplies were being destroyed by the mounted force ranging below.  By this strategy, Captain Kuykendall kept his men constantly occupied, and at the same time displayed his genius as a soldier.</P>
135.sgm:<P>His foot expeditions were generally made by a few enthusiastic scouts, who were as much induced to volunteer to perform this duty from a love of nature as from a desire to fight.  Here were found</P>
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135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls<LB>Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps,<LB>And throned eternity in icy halls<LB>Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls<LB>The avalanche--the thunderbolt of snow!<LB>All that expands the spirit, yet appals,<LB>Gather around these summits, as to show<LB>How earth may pierce to Heaven, yet leave vain man below."</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The stories told by the men in Kuykendall's command were received with doubts, or as exaggerations.  Their descriptions represented deeper valleys and higher cliffs than had been seen and described by scouts of the other companies.  It was intimated by us, who had previously described the region of the Yosemite, "that the man who told the first story in California stood a poor chance."  Having read Professor J. D. Whitney's reports of that region, I can better appreciate the reports of Captain Kuykendall and those under him, of the character of the mountain territory to which they had been assigned.  Mr. Whitney, State Geologist, in speaking of the geological survey of this vicinity, says: "Of the terrible grandeur of the region embraced in this portion of the Sierra, it is hardly possible to convey any idea.  Mr. Gardner, in his notes of the view from Mount Brewer, thus enumerates some of the most striking features of the scene: `Can&tilde;ons from two to five thousand feet deep, between thin ridges topped with pinnacles sharp as needles; successions of great crater-like amphitheatres, with crowning precipices, over-sweeping snow-fields and frozen lakes, everywhere naked and shattered granite without a sign of vegetation, except where a few gnarled and storm-beaten pines *** cling to the rocks in the deeper can&tilde;ons; such were the elements of the scene we looked down upon, while cold gray clouds were drifting overhead.'"</P>
135.sgm:<P>This description applies more properly to the territory east of any point reached by Captain Kuykendall, but it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>While on our second expedition to the Yosemite, some of Captain Kuykendall's company, who had come to headquarters and had been allowed the privileges, volunteered to accompany our supply train, as they said: "To see what kind of a country we were staying in."  One, an enthusiastic lover of nature, said on his return: "The King's river country, and the territory southeast of it, beats the Yosemite in terrific grandeur, but in sublime beauty you have got us."  As the furloughs granted to the members of B. and C. companies expired, all promptly reported for duty, and preparations were completed for another campaign against the Yosemites.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Dill, with part of his company, was retained on duty at headquarters, while Lt. Gilbert with a detachment of C. Company, was ordered to report for duty to Captain Boling.  Dr. Pfifer was placed in charge of a temporary hospital, erected for the use of the battalion.  Surgeon Bronson had resigned, preferring the profits received from his negro slaves, who were then mining on Sherlock's creek to all the romance of Indian warfare.  The doctor was a clever and genial gentleman, but a poor mountaineer.  Doctor Lewis Leach was appointed to fill the vacancy.  Doctor Black was ordered to duty with Captain Boling.  Major Savage offered me a position, and it was urged upon me by Captain Boling, but having a number of men engaged in a mining enterprise, in which Spencer and myself were interested, we had mutually agreed to decline all office.  Beside this, when Mr. Spencer and myself entered into service together, it was with the expectation that we would soon be again at liberty.  But once in the service, our personal pride and love of adventure would not allow us to become <HI REND="italics">subordinate</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>As it was the design of Major Savage to make a thorough search in the territory surrounding the Yosemite, if we failed in surprising the inhabitants in their valley, a few scouts and guides were provided for the expedition to aid in our search among the "High Sierras," so distinctively named by Prof. Whitney.  Among our ample supplies ropes were furnished, by order of Major Savage, suitable for floats, and for establishing bridges where needed.  These bridges were suggested by myself, and were useful as a support while passing through swift water, or for crossing narrow but rushing torrents.  This was accomplished expeditiously by simply stretching " <HI REND="italics">taut</HI>
135.sgm: " two ropes, one above the other, the upper rope, grasped by the hands, serving to secure the safe passage of the stream.  Where trees were not found in suitable position to make the suspension, poles were lashed together so as to form <HI REND="italics">shears</HI>
135.sgm:, which served for trestles.  I also suggested that snow-shoes could probably be used with advantage on our mountain excursions.  The use of these I found entirely unknown, except to Major Savage and a few other eastern men.  My experience favored their use, as I had often found it easier to travel <HI REND="italics">over</HI>
135.sgm: deep snow than to wallow through it.  My suggestion caused a " <HI REND="italics">heap</HI>
135.sgm: " of merriment, and my friend Chandler laughed until he became " <HI REND="italics">powerful weak</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The services of Major Savage being indispensable to the Commissioners, it was decided that the expedition would be under the command of Captain Boling.  In making this announcement, the Major said: he expected Ten-ie-ya and his people would come in with us if he was formally invited, and a sufficient escort provided.  Captain Boling very seriously assured the Major, that if the Yosemites accepted the invitation, he should endeavor to make the trip a <HI REND="italics">secure</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:one; there should be no neglect on the part of the escort if suitable <HI REND="italics">supplies</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Our preparations being made, we again started for the Merced in search of the Yosemites.  It was the design of Capt. Boling to surprise the Indians if possible, and if not, to cut off the escape of their women and children, the capture of whom, would soon bring the warriors to terms.  With this plan in view, and leaving Chandler virtually in command of the column, we made a rapid march direct for their valley, crossing the streams without much difficulty, and without accident.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The advance, consisting of Captain Boling with a small detachment, and some of the scouts, quietly entered the valley, but no Indians were seen.  A few new wigwams had been built on the south side near the lower ford, to better guard the entrance as was supposed.  Without halting, except to glance at the vacant huts, the advance rode rapidly on, following a trail up the south side, which our Pohonochee guide informed the captain was a good trail.</P>
135.sgm:<P>On entering the valley and seeing the deserted wigwams I reached the conclusion that our approach had been heralded.  As my military ardor subsided, my enthusiastic love of the beautiful returned to me, and I halted a moment to take a general view of the scenery; intending also to direct the column up the south side.  While waiting for Chandler, I examined the huts, and found several bushels of scorched acorns that had been divested of their covering, as if for transportation.  I knew that the natives had no more fondness for burnt acorns than Yankees have for burnt beans, and the interpreter Sandino, who was with me at this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Sandino was not popular, either with our officers or with the "boys."  Captain Boling doubted his integrity, while Chandler said he was a most arrant coward and afraid of the wild Indians.  Chandler was right; but, nevertheless, Sandino told us many truths.  At times his timidity and superstition were very annoying; but if reproved, he became the more confused, and said that many questions made his head ache; <HI REND="italics">a very common answer to one in search of knowledge among Indians</HI>
135.sgm:.  Sandino had been sent along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>As we rode on up the valley, I became more observant of the scenery than watchful for signs, when suddenly my attention was attracted by shadowy objects flitting past rocks and trees on the north side, some distance above El Capitan.  Halting, I caught a glimpse of Indians as they passed an open space opposite to us.  Seeing that they were discovered, they made no further efforts to hide their movements, but came out into open view, at long rifle range.  There were five of them.  They saluted us with taunting gestures, and fearlessly kept pace with us as we resumed our march.  The river was here a foaming impassable torrent.  The warriors looked with great indifference on our repeated efforts to discover a fording place.  As we approached a stretch of comparatively smooth water, I made known to Chandler my intention of swimming the stream to capture them.  His answer was: "Bully for you, Doc; take 'em, if you can, alive, but take 'em <HI REND="italics">anyhow</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The Indians, alarmed by this unexpected movement, fled up the valley at the top of their speed.  By the time we had crossed, they had nearly reached a bend in the river <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE THREE BROTHERS.  (3,850 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:above on the north side.  We followed at our best gait, but found the trail obstructed by a mass of what then appeared to be recently fallen rocks.  Without hesitation, we abandoned our mules, and continued the pursuit on foot, up to the rocky spur known as the "Three Brothers," where entering the Talus, they disappeared.  Find them, we could not.  The obstructing rocks on the old north side trail were known as "We-a&die;ck," "The Rocks," and understood to mean the "fallen rocks," because, according to traditions they had fallen <HI REND="italics">upon</HI>
135.sgm: the old trail.  The modern trail for horses crossed the stream a short distance below, where there was a very good ford in a lower stage of water, but at this time, the early part of May, the volume of water rushing down the Merced was astonishing.  We had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Firebaugh, having failed to get his mustang to follow us, had run him up on the south side as if to cut off the fugitives, and saw them hide behind a ledge of rocks.</P>
135.sgm:<P>When informed of the situation, Capt. Boling crossed to the north side and came down to the ledge where the scouts were hidden; but the Captain could scarcely at first credit Firebaugh's statement, that he had seen them climb up the cliff.  Our Indian scouts were sent up to hunt out the hidden warriors, and through the means of fair promises, if they came down voluntarily, Captain Boling succeeded in bringing in the five Indians.  Three of the captives were known to us, being sons of Ten-ie-ya, one of whom was afterwards killed; the other two were young braves, the wife of one being a daughter of the old chief.  The Indian name for the three rocky peaks near which this capture was made was not then known to any of our battalion, but from the strange coincidence of three brothers being made prisoners so near them, we designated the peaks as the "Three Brothers."  I soon learned that they were called by the Indians "Kom-po-pai-zes," from a fancied resemblance of the peaks to the heads of frogs when sitting up <HI REND="italics">ready to leap</HI>
135.sgm:.  A fanciful interpretation has been given the Indian name as meaning "mountains playing leap-frog," but a literal translation is not desirable.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>They hear the plaintive bull-frog to his mistress trilling sweet;<LB>They see the green-robed sirens plunge down in waters deep.<LB>But leap these mountains may not; they watch, with clouded brow,<LB>Return of young Ten-ie-ya--heard not his death's pow-wow.</HI>
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135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>A General Scout--An Indian Trap--Flying Artillery--A Narrow Escape--A Tragic Scene--Fortunes of War--A Scout's Description--Recovery from a Sudden Leap--Surrounded by Enemies.</P>
135.sgm:<P>WHILE Captain Boling was engaged in capturing the Indians we had "treed" on the north side of the valley, scouting parties were sent out by Lieut. Chandler.  They spread over the valley, and search was made in every locality that was accessible.  Discovering fresh signs on a trail I had unsuccessfully followed on my first visit, I pursued the traces up to a short distance below Mirror Lake.  Being alone I divided my attention between the wonders of the scenery and the tracks I was following, when suddenly I was aroused by discovering a basket of acorns lying by the trail.  Seeing that it was a common carrying basket, such as was generally used by the squaws in "packing," I at first came to the conclusion that it had been thrown off by some affrighted squaw in her haste to escape on my approach.  Observing another on a trail leading toward the Talus, I felt confident that I had discovered the key to the hiding-place of the Indians we were in search of.  Securing my mule with the "riata" I continued the search, and found several baskets before reaching the walls of the cliff, up which, in a kind of groove, the trail ascended.  By this time I began to be suspicious, and thought that there was too much method in this distribution of acorns along the trail for frightened squaws to have made, and it now occurred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:to me what Sandino had said of acorns being hulled for transportation up the cliffs; and these <HI REND="italics">had not been hulled</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Before reaching the Talus, I observed that the foot-prints were large, and had been made by the males, as the toes did not turn in, as was usual with the squaws; and it now began to appear to me, that the acorns were only left to lead us into some trap; for I was aware that "warriors" seldom disgraced themselves by "packing," like squaws.  Taking a look about me, I began to feel that I was venturing too far; my ambitious desire for further investigation vanished, and I hastened back down the trail.  While descending, I met Lt. Gilbert of C company, with a few men.  They too had discovered baskets, dropped by the " <HI REND="italics">scared Indians</HI>
135.sgm:," and were rushing up in hot pursuit, nearly <HI REND="italics">capturing</HI>
135.sgm: me.  I related my discoveries, and told the Lieutenant of my suspicions, advising him not to be too hasty in following up the " <HI REND="italics">lead</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After taking the precaution to secrete the baskets on the main trail, Lt. Gilbert, with his scouts, continued his explorations in other localities, saying as he left that he would warn all whom he might see "not to get into the trap."  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:mounted my mule and rode down the valley in search of Captain Boling, and found him in an oak grove near our old camp, opposite a cliff, now known as "Hammo" (the lost arrow).  I here learned the particulars of his successful capture of the five scouts of Ten-ie-ya's band, and at his request asked them, through Sandino, who had come over with the " <HI REND="italics">kitchen mules</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After repeated questioning as to where their people were, and where the old chief would be found if a messenger should be sent to him, they gave us to understand that they were to meet Ten-ie-ya near To-co-ya, at the same time pointing in the direction of the "North Dome."  Captain Boling assured them that if Ten-ie-ya would come in with his people he could do so with safety.  That he desired to make peace with him, and did not wish to injure any of them.  The young brave was the principal spokesman, and he replied: "Ten-ie-ya will come in when he hears what has been said to us."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Having acquired all the information it was possible to get from the Indians, Capt. Boling said that in the morning he would send a messenger to the old chief and see if he would come in.  When told this the young "brave" appeared to be very anxious to be permitted to go after him, saying: "He is there now," pointing towards the "North Dome," "another day he will be on the `Skye Mountains,' or anywhere," meaning that his movements were uncertain.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Capt. Boling had so much confidence in his statements, that he decided to send some of the scouts to the region of the North Dome for Ten-ie-ya; but all efforts of our allies and of ourselves, failed to obtain any further clue to Ten-ie-ya's hiding-place, for the captives said that they dare not disclose their signals or countersign, for the penalty was death, and none other would be answered or understood by their people.  I here broke in upon the captain's efforts to obtain <HI REND="italics">useful knowledge</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling replied: "It is too late in the day for a job of that kind; we will wait and see if Ten-ie-ya will come in.  I have made up my mind to send two of our prisoners after him, and keep the others as hostages until he comes.  To make a sure thing of this, Doctor, I want you to take these two," pointing to one of the sons and the son-in-law of Ten-ie-ya, "and go with them to the place where they have said a trail leads up the cliff to Ten-ie-ya's hiding place.  You will take care that they are not molested by any of our boys while on this trip.  Take any one with you in camp, if you do not care to go along."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Taking a small lunch to break my fast since the morning meal, I concluded to make the trip on foot; my mule having been turned loose with the heard.  Arming myself, I started alone with the two prisoners which Capt. Boling had consigned to my guardianship.  I kept them ahead of me on the trail, as I always did when traveling with any of that race.  We passed along the westerly base of the North Dome at a rapid gait, without meeting any of my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>It seemed but a single motion for Cameron to deposit his burden and level his rifle.  He ordered me to stand aside if I valued my own safety.  I replied as quietly as I could, "Hold on, boys!  Captain Boling sent me to guard these Indians from harm, and I shall obey orders."  I motioned the Indians to keep to my back or they would be killed.  Cameron shouted: "They have almost killed Spencer, and have got to die.  As he attempted to get sight, he said: "Give way, Bunnell, I don't want to hurt you."  This I thought <HI REND="italics">very condescending</HI>
135.sgm:, and I replied with emphasis: "These Indians are under my charge, and I shall protect them.  If you shoot you commit murder."  The whole transaction thus far seemingly occupied but a moment's time, when to the surprise of us all, Spencer called my name.  I moved forward a little, and said to them, "Throw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:up your rifles and let me come into to see Spencer."  "Come in!  <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
135.sgm:<P>This occurrence did not destroy good feeling toward each other, for we were all good friends after the excitement had passed over.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I examined Spencer and found that, although no bones were broken, he was seriously bruised and prostrated by the shock induced by his injuries.  Fisher started for camp to bring up a horse or mule to carry Spencer in.  I learned that they had fallen into the trap on the "basket trail," and that Spencer had been injured while ascending the cliff as I had suspected.  He had, unfortunately, been <HI REND="italics">trailed in</HI>
135.sgm:, as I had been.  The particulars Cameron related to me and in my hearing after we had arrived in camp.  As the Indians represented to me that the trail they proposed to take up the cliff was but a little way up the north branch, I concluded to go on with them, and then be back in time to accompany Spencer into camp.  Speaking some cheering words to Spencer I turned to leave, when Cameron said to him: "You ain't dead yet, my boy."  Spencer held out his hand, and as he took it Cameron said, with visible emotion, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>On my return I found that Cameron had already started with Spencer; I soon overtook them and relieved him of his burden, and from there carried Spencer into camp.  We found Fisher vainly trying to catch his mule.  The most of the horses were still out with the scouts, and all animals in camp had been turned loose.  Sergt. Cameron, while Fisher was assisting me in the removal of Spencer's clothing and dressing his wounds, had prepared a very comfortable bed, made of boughs, that the kind-hearted boys thoughtfully brought in; and after he was made comfortable and nourishment given him, the Sergeant related to Captain Boling the details of their adventure, which were briefly as follows: Cameron and Spencer while on their way back to camp discovered the baskets on the trail.  Feeling certain that they had discovered the hiding-place of the Indians, as we had done, they concluded to make a reconnoisance of the vicinity before making a report of their discovery.  Elated at their success, and unsuspicious of any unusual danger, they followed the trail that wound up the cliff, along jutting rocks that in places projected like cornices, until the converging walls forced them to a steep acclivity grooved in the smooth-worn rock.  Not daunted by the difficult assent, they threw off their boots and started up the slippery gutter, when suddenly a huge mass of granite came thundering down towards them.  But for a fortunate swell or prominence just above they would both have been swept into eternity; as it was, the huge rock passed over their heads; a fragment, however, struck Spencer's rifle from his hand and hurled him fifty feet or more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Cameron was in advance, and fortunately was able to reach the shelter of a projecting rock.  After the discharge, an Indian stretched himself above a detached rock, from which he had been watching his supposed victims.  Cameron chanced to be looking that way, and instantly firing, dropped his man.  No doubt he was killed, for the quantity of blood found afterward on the rock, was great.  The echoing report of Cameron's rifle, brought back howls of rage from a number of rocks above, as if they were alive with demons.  Anticipating another discharge from their battery, Cameron descended to the spot where Spencer had fallen, and taking him in his arms, fled out of range.</P>
135.sgm:<P>After supper, the explorers having all come in, the boys gathered around the Sergeant and importuned him to give the history of his adventures.  After reflectively bringing up the scene to view, he began: "We got into mighty close quarters!  Come to think of it, I don't see how we happened to let ourselves be caught in that dead-fall.  I reckon we must have fooled ourselves some.  The way of it was this.  We went up on the south side as far as we could ride, and after rummaging around for a while, without finding anything, Spencer wanted to go up the North Can&tilde;on and get a good look at that mountain with one side split off; so I told the boys to look about for themselves, as there were no Indians in the valley.  Some of them went on up the South Can&tilde;on, and the rest of us went over to the North Can&tilde;on.  After crossing the upper ford, Spencer and I concluded to walk up the can&tilde;on, so we sent our animals down to graze with the herd.  Spencer looked a good long while at that split mountain, and called it a `half dome.'  I concluded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>On our way down, as we passed that looking-glass pond, he wanted to take one more look, and told me to go ahead and he'd soon overtake me; but that I wouldn't do, so he said: "No matter, then; I can come up some other time."  As we came on down the trail below the pond, I saw some acorns scattered by the side of the trail, and told Spencer there were Indians not far off.  After looking about for a while Spencer found a basket nearly full behind some rocks, and in a little while discovered a trail leading up towards the cliff.  We followed this up a piece, and soon found several baskets of acorns.  I forgot about being hungry, and after talking the matter over we decided to make a sort of reconnoisance before we came in to make any report.  Well, we started on up among the rocks until we got to a mighty steep place, a kind of gulch that now looked as if it had been scooped out for a stone battery.  The trail up it was as steep as the roof on a meeting-house, and worn so slippery that we couldn't get a foot-hold.  I wanted to see what there was above, and took off my boots and started up.  Spencer did the same and followed me.  I had just got to the swell of the steepest slope, where a crack runs across the face of the wall, and was looking back to see if Spencer would make the riffle, when I heard a crash above me, and saw a rock as big as a hogshead rolling down the cliff toward us.  I sprang on up behind a rock that happened to be in the right place, for there was no time to hunt for any other shelter.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I had barely reached cover when the bounding rock struck with a crash by my side, and bounded clear over Spencer, who had run across the crevice and was stooping down and steadying himself with his rifle.  A piece of the big rock that was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:shattered into fragments and thrown in all directions, struck his rifle out of his hands, and sent him whirling and clutching down a wall fifty feet.  He lodged out of sight, where in going up we had kicked off our leathers.  I thought he was killed, for he did not answer when I called, and I had no chance then to go to him, for a tremendous shower of stones came rushing by me.  I expected he would be terribly mangled at first, but soon noticed that the swell in the trail caused the rocks to bound clear over him onto the rocks in the valley.  I looked up to see where they came from just as an Indian stuck his head above a rock.  My rifle came up of its own accord.  It was a quick sight, but with me they are generally the best, and as I fired that Indian jumped into the air with a yell and fell back onto the ledge.  He was hit, I know, and I reckon <HI REND="italics">he went west</HI>
135.sgm:<P>"We concluded at first that Spencer was done for; for his heart beat very slow and he was quite dumpish.  We had just started for camp with him, and met Bunnell going out with the two Indians.  I reckon we would have sent them on a trip down where it is warmer than up there on the mountains, if Spencer hadn't roused himself just then.  He stopped the game.  He called for the Doctor; but Bunnell was as stubborn as Firebaugh's mustang and would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I have given the substance only of Sergt. Cameron's talk to the group around him, though but poorly imitating his style, in order to show the feeling that was aroused by Spencer's misfortune.  Spencer's uniformly quiet and gentlemanly manners, made no enemies among rough comrades, who admired the courageous hardihood of "the little fellow," and respected him as a man.  Many expressions of sympathy were given by the scouts who gathered around our tent, on learning of his injury.  For some days after the event, he could scarcely be recognized, his face was so swollen and discolored.  But what Spencer seemed most to regret, was the injury to his feet and knees, which had been cruelly rasped by the coarse granite in his descent.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The injury from this cause was so great, that he was unable to make those explorations that footmen alone could accomplish.  He was an enthusiastic lover of nature, an accomplished scholar and man of the world.  Having spent five years in France and Germany in the study of modern languages, after having acquired a high standing here in Latin and Greek.</P>
135.sgm:<P>We thought him peculiarly gifted, and hoped for something from his pen descriptive of the Yosemite that would endure; but he could never be induced to make any effort to describe any feature of the valley, saying: "That fools only rush in where wise men stand in awe."  We were bedfellows and friends, and from this cause chiefly, perhaps, all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>During the camp discussion regarding my course in saving the two captives, Captain Boling and myself were amused listeners.  No great pains were taken as a rule to hide one's light under a bushel, and we were sitting not far off.  The Captain said that he now comprehended the extreme anxiety of the captives to see Ten-ie-ya, as doubtless they knew of his intentions to roll rocks down on any who attempted to follow up that trail; and probably supposed we would kill them if any of us were killed.  As he left our tent he remarked: "These hostages will have to stay in camp.  They will not be safe outside of it, if some of the boys chance to get their eyes on them."</P>
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135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Camp Amusements--A Lost Arrow--Escape of a Prisoner--Escape of Another--Shooting of the Third--Indian Diplomacy--Taking His Own Medicine--Ten-ie-ya Captured--Grief over the Death of His Son--Appetite under Adverse Circumstances--Poetry Dispelled--Really a Dirty Indian.</P>
135.sgm:<P>ALTHOUGH our camp was undisturbed during the night, no doubt we were watched from the adjacent cliffs, as in fact all our movements were.  The captives silently occupied the places by the camp fire.  They were aware of Spencer's mishap, and probably expected their lives might be forfeited; for they could see but little sympathy in the countenances of those about them.  The reckless demonstrations of the more frolicksome boys were watched with anxious uncertainty.  The sombre expressions and <HI REND="italics">energetic</HI>
135.sgm: remarks of the sympathizers of Spencer induced Captain Boling to have a special guard detailed from those who were not supposed to be prejudiced against the Indians, as it was deemed all-important to the success of the campaign that Ten-ie-ya should be conciliated or captured; therefore, this detail was designed as much for the protection of the hostages as to prevent their escape.  The messengers had assured the Captain that Ten-ie-ya would be in before noon, but the hostages told Sandino that possibly the messengers might not find him near To-co-ya, where they expected to meet him, as he might go a long distance away into the mountains before they would again see him.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Sandino professed to believe their statement, telling me that they--the five prisoners--expected to have trailed us up to the scene of Spencer's disaster; failing in which--owing to our having forced them to hide near the "Frog Mountains"--they still expected to meet him on the cliff where the rocks had been rolled down, and not at To-co-ya.  In this conversation, the fact appeared--derived as he said indirectly from conversations with the prisoners--that there were projecting ledges and slopes extending along the cliff on the east side of Le-hamite to To-co-ya, where Indians could pass and re-pass, undiscovered, and all of our movements could be watched.  The substance of this communication I gave to Captain Boling, but it was discredited as an impossibility; and he expressed the belief that the old chief would make his appearance by the hour agreed upon with his messengers, designated by their pointing to where the sun would be on his arrival in camp.  Accordingly the Captain gave orders that no scouts would be sent out until after that time.  Permission, however, was given to those who desired to leave camp for their own pleasure or diversion.</P>
135.sgm:<P>A few took advantage of this opportunity and made excursions up the North Can&tilde;on to the "basket trail," with a view of examining that locality, and at the same time indulging their curiosity to see the place where Cameron and Spencer had been trailed in and entrapped by the Indians.  Most of the command preferred to remain in camp to repair damages, rest, and to amuse themselves in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>After this exercise had ceased to be amusing, and the most of those in camp had their attention engaged in other matters, the guard, out of curiosity and for pastime, put up the target at long range.  To continue the sport it was necessary to bring in the arrows used, and as it was difficult to find them, an Indian was taken along to aid in the search.  The young brave made a more extended shot than all others.  With great earnestness he watched the arrow, and started with one of the guard, who was unarmed, to find it.  While pretending to hunt for the "lost arrow," he made a dash from the guard toward "Indian Can&tilde;on," and darted into the rocky Talus, which here encroached upon the valley.  The guard on duty hearing the alarm of his comrade and seeing the Indian at full speed, fired at him, but without effect, as the intervening rocks and the zig-zag course he was running, made the shot a difficult one, withuot danger of hitting his comrade, who was following in close pursuit.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This aggravating incident greatly annoyed Capt. Boling, who was peculiarly sensitive on the subject of escaped prisoners.  The verdant guard was reprimanded in terms more expressive than polite; and relieved from duty.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>When this was communicated to Capt. Boling, he gave orders for a select number of scouts to make an effort to bring in the old malcontent, <HI REND="italics">alive if possible</HI>
135.sgm:.  Lt. Chandler, therefore, with a few Noot-chu&die; and Po-ho-no-chee scouts, to climb above the projecting ledge, and a few of our men to cut off retreat, started up the Ten-ie-ya branch, led by Sandino as guide.  After passing the "Royal Arches," Sandino let Chandler understand that he and his scouts had best go up by the Wai-ack or Mirror Lake trail, in order to cut off Ten-ie-ya's retreat; while he went back to the rock he pointed out as the place where he had seen and talked with Ten-ie-ya; and which commanded a view of our camp.  This was distasteful to Chandler; but after a moment's reflection said: "Let the converted knave go back to camp; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>While in camp Sandino had seemed to convey some message to the hostages, and when asked the purport of it had answered evasively.  This had prejudiced Chandler, but it had not surprised me, nor did it appear inconsistent with Sandino's loyalty to Captain Boling; but the Indian was unpopular.  As to his code of honor and his morality, it was about what should have been expected of one in his position, and as a frequent interpreter of his interpretations and sayings, I finally told the Captain and Chandler that it would be best to take Sandino for what he might be worth; as continued doubt of him could not be disguised, and would tend to make a knave or fool of him.  On one occasion, he was so alarmed by some cross looks and words given him, that he fell upon his knees and begged for his life, thinking, as he said afterward, that he was to be killed.</P>
135.sgm:<P>During the night, and most of the time during the day, I was engaged in attendance on Spencer.  Doctor Black understood it to be Spencer's wish that I should treat him.  I gave but little attention to other matters, although I could see from our tent everything that was going on in camp.  Not long after the departure of Chandler and his scouts, as I was about leaving camp in search of balsam of fir and other medicinals, I observed one of the guard watching the prisoners with a pleased and self-satisfied expression.  As I glanced toward the Indians I saw that they were endeavoring to untie each other, and said to two of the detail as I passed them,  "That ought to be reported to the officer of the guard.  They should be separated, and not allowed to tempt their fate."  I was told that it was "already known to the officers."  I was then asked if I was on guard duty.  The significance of this I was fully able to interpret, and passed on to the vicinity of "The High Falls."</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>On my return an hour afterwards.  I noticed when nearing camp, that the Indians were gone from the tree to which they were tied when I left.  Supposing that they had probably been removed for greater security, I gave it no further thought until, without any intimation of what had occurred during my short absence, I saw before me the dead body of old Ten-e-ya's youngest son.  The warm blood still oozing from a wound in his back.  He was lying just outside of our camp, within pistol range of the tree to which he had been tied.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I now comprehended the action of the guard.  I learned that the other Indian had been fired at, but had succeeded in making his escape over the same ground and into the can&tilde;on where the other brave had disappeared.  I found on expressing my unqualified condemnation of this cowardly act, that I was not the only one to denounce it.  It was a cause of regret to nearly the whole command.  Instead of the praise expected by the guard for the dastardly manner in which the young Indian was killed, they were told by Captain Boling that they had committed murder.  Sergeant Cameron was no lover of Indians, but for this act his boiling wrath could hardly find vent, even when aided by some red hot expressions.  I learned, to my extreme mortification, that no report had been made to any of the officers.  The Indians had been permitted to untie themselves, and an opportunity had been given them to attempt to escape in order to fire upon them, expecting tokill them both; and only that a bullet-pouch had been hung upon the muzzle of one of the guard's rifles while leaning against a tree (for neither were on duty at the moment), no doubt both of the captives would have been killed.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Upon investigation, it was found that the fatal shot had been fired by a young man who had been led by an old Texan sinner to think that killing Indians or Mexicans <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>YOSEMITE FALLS.  (2,634 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:was a duty; and surprised at Captain Boling's view of his conduct, declared with an injured air, that he "would not kill another Indian if the woods were full of them."  Although no punishment was ever inflicted upon the perpetrators of the act, they were both soon sent to coventry, and feeling their disgrace, were allowed to do duty with the packtrain.  Captain Boling had, before the occurrence of this incident, decided to establish his permanent camp on the south side of the Merced.  The location selected was near the bank of the river, in full view of, and nearly opposite, "The Fall."  This camp was head-quarters during our stay in the valley, which was extended to a much longer time than we had anticipated.  Owing to several mountain storms, our stay was prolonged over a month.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>From this point our excursions were made.  All Indians attach great importance to securing the bodies of their dead for appropriate ceremonials, which with these was "cremation."  They with others of the mountain tribes in this part of California, practiced the burning of their dead in accordance with their belief in a future state of existence, which was that if the body was burned, the spirit was released and went to "the happy land in the west."  If this ceremony was omitted, the spirit haunted the vicinity, to the annoyance of the friends as well as the enemies of the deceased.  Knowing this, Captain Boling felt a desire to make some atonement for the unfortunate killing of the son of Ten-ie-ya, the chief of the tribe with whom he was endeavoring to "make peace," and therefore made his arrangements to take advantage of this custom to propitiate the Indians by giving them an opportunity to remove the body of the youth.  Accordingly, the order was at once given to break camp.</P>
135.sgm:<P>While the pack animals were being loaded, Lt. Chandler with his party brought in Ten-ie-ya.  The Indian scouts, who were first sent out with Sandino and who knew where the talk with the chief had been held, passed on in advance and saw that he was still at his perch, watching the movements below him.  Some of those out on leave discovered him also, seated on a ledge that appeared only accessible from above.  The Pohonochee scouts, thinking to capture him by cutting off his retreat, followed an upper trail and reached the summit of the wall, while a few of Chandler's men, who were apprized of the situation by some of the pleasure-seekers whom they met, took a lower trail, and thus were in advance of the Indian scouts when Ten-ie-ya's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The sequel to the disappearance of Ten-ie-ya, as explained by Sandino, was simply as follows: When sent back by Chandler, Sandino resolved to make another effort to induce Ten-ie-ya to come in, lest Chandler should kill him if found.  Accordingly he again climbed to the foot of the old chief's perch, and was talking with him, when some small loose stones came rolling down towards them.  Seeing that his retreat above had been cut off, Ten-ie-ya at first ran along westerly, on the slope of the mountain towards Indian Can&tilde;on; but finding that he was cut off in that direction also, by the Neut-chu&die; and Po-ho-no-chee scouts, he turned and came down a trail through an oak tree-top to the valley, which Sandino had by this time reached, and where he had been attracted by the noise made in the pursuit.  Lt. Chandler had not climbed up the trail, and hearing Sandino's cry for help, and the noise above him, he was able to reach the place when Ten-ie-ya descended, in time to secure him.  Ten-ie-ya said the men above him were rolling stones down, and he did not like to go up, as they broke and flew everywhere; for that reason he came down.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Ten-ie-ya accompanied his captors without making any resistance, although he strongly censured the Indians for being instrumental in his capture.  They did not reach the valley in time to take part in the capture, but as Ten-ie-ya had said: "It was their cunning that had discovered the way to his hiding place."</P>
135.sgm:<P>None of the party of explorers or those under Chandler were aware of the event that had occurred during their absence.  As Ten-ie-ya walked toward the camp, proudly conscious of being an object of attention from us, his eye fell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Upon riding over to the camp ground the next morning, it was found that the body had been carried up or secreted in Indian Can&tilde;on; as all of the tracks led that way.  This ravine became known to <HI REND="italics">us</HI>
135.sgm: as "Indian Can&tilde;on," though called by the Indians "Le-Hamite," "the arrow wood."  It was also known to them by the name of "Scho-tal-lo-wi," meaning the way to " <HI REND="italics">Fall Creek</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Finding that nothing could be accomplished through the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:old chief, Captain Boling gave orders to re-commence our search for his people.  Scouting parties were started on foot to explore as far as was practicable on account of the snow.  Although it was now May, the snow prevented a very extended search in the higher Sierras.  On the first day out these parties found that, although they had made a faithful and active search, they had not performed half they had planned to do when starting.  Distances were invariably under-estimated.  This we afterward found was the case in all of our excursions in the mountains, where we estimated distance by the eye; and calling attention to the phenomena, I tried to have the principle applied to heights as well.  The height of the mountainous cliffs, and the clear atmosphere made objects appear near, but the time taken to reach them convinced us that our eyes had deceived us in our judgment of distance.  To avoid the severe labor that was imposed upon us by carrying our provisions and blankets, an attempt was made to use pack-mules, but the circuitous route we were compelled to take consumed too much time; besides the ground we were desirous of going over was either too soft and yielding, or too rocky and precipitous.  We were compelled to leave the mules and continue our explorations on foot.  Later in the season there would have been no difficulty in exploring the mountains on horse-back, if certain well established routes and passes were kept in view; but aside from these our Indian guides could give us little or no information.  This we accounted for upon the theory that, as there was no game of consequence in the higher Sierras, and the cold was great as compared with the lower altitudes, the Indians knowledge of the "Higher Sierras" was only acquired while passing over them, or while concealed in them from the pursuit of their enemies.  All scouting parties were, therefore, principally dependent upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Through our Indian scouts, we learned that some of the Yosemites had gone to the Tuolumne.  These were Tuolumne Indians who had intermarried with the Yosemites, and had been considered as a part of Ten-ie-ya's band.  Taking their women and children, they returned to the Tuolumne tribe as soon as it was known that Ten-ie-ya had been captured; fearing he would again promise to take his band to the Fresno.  Our orders prohibited us from disturbing the Tuolumne Indians; we therefore permitted them to return to their allegiance without attempting to follow them.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Ten-ie-ya was treated with kindness, and as his sorrow for the loss of his son seemed to abate, he promised to call in some of his people, and abide by their decision, when they had heard the statements of Capt. Boling.  At night he would call as if to some one afar off.  He said his people were not far from our camp and could hear his voice.  We never heard a reply, although the calls were continued by order of Capt. Boiling for many nights.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Although he was closely watched by the camp guard, he made an attempt to escape while the guard's back was momentarily turned upon him.  Sergt. Cameron, who had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>As Ten-ie-ya was brought into the presence of Capt. Boling by Sergt. Cameron, after this attempt to escape, he supposed that he would now be condemned to be shot.  With mingled fear of the uncertainty of his life being spared, and his furious passion at being foiled in his attempt to regain his liberty, he forgot his usual reserve and shrewdness.  His grief for the loss of his son and the hatred he entertained toward Copt. Boling, who he considered as responsible for his death, was uppermost in his thoughts, and without any of his taciturn, diplomatic style he burst forth in lamentations and denunciations, given in a loud voice and in a style of language and manner of delivery which took us all by surprise.  In his excitement, he made a correct use of many Spanish words, showing that he was more familiar with them than he had ever admitted even to Sandino; but the more emphatic expressions were such as may often be heard used by the muleteers of Mexico and South America, but are not found in the Lexicons.  As he approached Capt. Boling, he began in a highly excited tone: " <HI REND="italics">Kill me</HI>
135.sgm:, sir Captain!  Yes, <HI REND="italics">kill me</HI>
135.sgm:, as you killed my son; as you would kill my people if they were to come to you!  You would kill all my race if you had the power.  Yes, sir, American, you can now tell your warriors to kill the old chief; you have made me sorrowful, my life dark; you killed the child of my heart, why not kill the father?  But wait a little; when I am dead I will call to my people to come to you, I will call louder than you have had me call; that they shall hear me in their sleep, and come to avenge the death of their chief and his son.  Yes, sir, American, my spirit will make trouble for you and your people, as you have caused trouble <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:to me and my people.  With the wizards, I will follow the white men and make them fear me."  He here aroused himself to a sublime frenzy, and completed his rhapsody by saying: "You may kill me, sir, Captain, but you shall not live in peace.  I will follow in your foot-steps, I will not leave my home, but be with the spirits among the rocks, the water-falls, in the rivers and in the winds; wheresoever you go I will be with you.  You will not see me, but you will fear the spirit of the old chief, and grow cold.<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1">It is claimed by all Indian "Medicine Men" that the presence of a spirit is announced by a <HI REND="italics">cool</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling allowed the old orator to finish his talk without interruption.  Although he did not fully understand him, he was amused at his earnest style and impetuous gestures.  On hearing it interpreted, he humorously replied: "I comprehended the most of what he said.  The old chief has improved.  If he was only reliable he would make a better interpreter than Sandino.  As for speech-making, Doc., I throw up.  The old Pow-wow can beat me all hollow."  Ten-ie-ya earnestly watched the countenance of the good natured Captain, as if to learn his decision in the matter.  The Captain observing him, quietly said: "Sergeant Cameron! the old sachem looks hungry, and as it is now about supper time, you had better give him an extra ration or two, and then see that he is so secured that he will not have a chance to escape from us again."</P>
135.sgm:<P>I watched the old incorrigible while he was delivering this eloquent harangue (which, of course, is necessarily a free translation) with considerable curiosity.  Under the excitement of the moment he appeared many years younger.  With his vigorous old age he displayed a <HI REND="italics">latent</HI>
135.sgm: power which was before unknown to us.  I began to feel a sort of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:veneration for him.  My sympathies had before been aroused for his sorrow, and I now began to have almost a genuine respect for him; but as I passed him half an hour afterwards, the poetry of his life appeared changed.  He was regaling himself on fat pork and beans from a wooden dish which had been brought to him by order of Cameron.  This he seemed to enjoy with an appetite of a hungry animal.  His guard had provided his wooden bowl and ladle by chipping them out of an alder tree, but failing to finish them smoothly, they could not be <HI REND="italics">properly</HI>
135.sgm: washed; but this fact seemed not to disturb his relish for the food.  As I looked at his enjoyment of the loaded dish, I now saw only a dirty old Indian.  The spiritual man had disappeared.  I addressed him in Spanish, but not a word of reply; instead he pointed to his ear, thereby indicating that he was deaf to the language.  Afterwards he even repudiated his " <HI REND="italics">Medicineship</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Bears and Other Game--Sickness of Captain Boling--Convalescence and Determination--A Guess at Heights--A Tired Doctor and a Used-up Captain--Surprising an Indian--Know-nothingness, or Native Americanism--A Clue and Discovery--A Short-cut to Camp, but an Unpopular Route.</P>
135.sgm:<P>CONSIDERABLE hilarty has been exhibited by modern visitors when told that the Yosemite and its environs were once the favorite resort of the grizzly bear.  After these visitors have returned to New York or Boston, they tell the public not to be afraid of bears, as they were quite harmless; rather inclined to become domestic, etc.  That is well enough now, perhaps, although grizzlies may yet be found; but at the date of the discovery; their trails were as large and numerous, almost, as cow-paths in a western settlement.  Several bears were seen by us, and one was killed.  The Yo-sem-i-tes used to capture these monsters by lying in wait for them on some rock or in some tree that commanded their thoroughfare, and after the bear had been wounded, all the dogs in the village were turned loose upon him.  After being brought to bay, he was dispatched with arrows or the spear.  A medium sized terrier or two will so annoy a large grizzly, keeping out of his way in the meantime, that he is apt to become stubborn and stand his ground.</P>
135.sgm:<P>In such cases, there is less danger to the hunter.  I have known of two being killed in this way at short range.  The approach of the hunter was disregarded by the bear.  Their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:hams had been so bitten by the dogs that they dared not run, for fear of a fresh attack.  I killed a large one as he came out of the Merced river, a little above where the town of Merced has since been built, and the same day, being in a whale-boat, I had to back from an old she-bear and her two cubs, encountered in a short turn of the river.  I tried to kill these also, but my rifle had got soaked in the rain that was pouring at the time; as for the pistol shots, fired by some of the oarsmen, they only seemed to increase her speed, and that of her cubs, as they reached the shore and plunged through the willows.  I had, previous to the killing of the grizzly, killed a large black bear with a rifle of small calibre, and gaining confidence, I attacked the grizzly, and was fortunate in cutting a renal-artery, from which the bear soon bled to death; but upon viewing the huge monster, I fully realized the folly of an open attack upon this kind of game, and ever afterwards, so far as I could, when alone, avoided their noted haunts.  With all my caution and dread of an unexpected encounter with them, I met several face to face during mountain explorations; but invariably, they seemed as anxious to get away from me as I was that they should do so.  Once while man&oelig;uvering to get a shot at a deer, a grizzly came out in full view but a few yards in advance of me.  I was tempted to give him a shot, but as I had no refuge of dog or tree, if I made a poor shot, and knowing that I was not seen by the bear, I did not molest him, but felt relieved as he entered a chinquepin thicket, and if there had been <HI REND="italics">fifty of them</HI>
135.sgm:, no doubt they might have all gone without my <HI REND="italics">saying a word</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I have seen a good deal of nonsense in print about bears, but will venture to give these incidents.  Joel H. Brooks and John Kenzie, ex-members of "The Battalion," were the least susceptible to fear of them, of any persons I ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This theory of bear hunting, they determined to put into practice, and after the close of the Indian war, and the disbanding of the battalion, they established themselves in a camp near the Tehon Pass, a locality even more famous for bears than the Yosemite.  They were successful, killed a number, and were daily acquiring more confidence in the practicability of their theory and plans of attack; when one day, while Kenzie was out hunting by himself, he unexpectedly met a huge grizzly face to face; both were for a moment startled.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Contrary to the usual, and almost invariable, habit of the bear when surprised or about to attack, he did not rise upon his hind feet; but instead of affording Kenzie the advantage of the usual opportunity to aim at the small, light-colored spot on his neck, which, if centered, is instant death to the animal, the bear made a direct dash for the hunter.  Seeing his peril, Kenzie at once fired with all the deliberation the urgency of the occasion would permit.  The shot proved a fatal one, but before Kenzie could avoid the furious charge of the animal, he was fatally injured by blows from the terrible monster.  His bowels were literally torn out; he was unfortunate in being tripped by the tangled brush, or he might have escaped, as the bear fell dead with his first charge, Kenzie succeeded in dragging himself to their camp.  He described the locality of the adventure, and requested Brooks to go and bring in the liver of the bear.  He said it would afford him some consolation to eat more of the bear than the bear had been able to eat of him.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Another member of our battalion killed a grizzly that for a time made him quite famous as a bear-fighter.  As this man was an Indian, an attempt has been made to weave the incident into a legend, giving the honor of the combat to one of the Yosemites.  The truth is, that a full-blooded Cherokee, known as "Cherokee Bob," or Robert Brown, wounded a grizzly, and to keep the bear from entering a thicket, set his dog on the game.  While "Bob" was reloading his rifle, and before he could get the cap on, the bear, disregarding the dog, charged upon Bob, and bore him to the ground.  The dog instantly attacked the bear, biting his hams most furiously.  The grizzly turned from Brown and caught the dog with his paw, holding him as a cat would hold a mouse.  By this means Bob was released, and but slightly bruised.  In an instant he drew his hunting knife and plunged it to the heart of the bear, and ended the contest.  The dog was seriously injured, but Bob carried him in his arms to camp, and attended his wounds as he would a comrade's or as he might have done his own.  As "Cherokee Bob's" bear fight was a reality known to his comrades, I have noticed it here.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The various routes to the Yosemite are now so constantly traveled that bears will rarely be seen.  They possess a very keen scent, and will avoid all thoroughfares traveled by man, unless very hungry; they are compelled to search for food.  Strange as it may appear to some, the ferocious grizzly can be more reliably tamed and domesticated than the black bear.  A tame grizzly at Monterey, in 1849, was allowed the freedom of the city.  Capt. Chas. M. Webber, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>During a hunt in company with Col. Byron Cole, Messrs. Kent, Long and McBrien of San Francisco, I caught a good sized cub, and Mr. Long, with a terrier dog, caught another; the mother of which was killed by the unerring aim of McBrien.  These cubs were taken by Cole and McBrien to San Francisco on their return, and sent to New York.  I was told that they became very tame.  I hope they did, for the comfort and security of their keepers; for in my first efforts to tame a grizzly, I became somewhat prejudiced against bear training as an occupation.  Not long after my experience, I heard of poor Lola Montez being bitten by one she was training at Grass Valley for exhibition in Europe; and I now lost all faith in their reported docility and domestic inclinations.  The California lion, like the wolf, is a coward, and deserves but little notice.  Among the visitors to the Yosemite, some will probably be interested in knowing where to find the game: fish, birds and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">blue</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The California deer are still abundant upon the spurs of the Sierras during their migrations to and from the foothills.  These migrations occur during the Autumn and Spring.  As the rainy season sets in, they leave the higher mountains for the foot-hills and plains, keeping near the snow line, and as the Spring advances, they follow back the receding snow to the high Sierras and the Eastern Slope, but seldom or never descend to the plain below.  On account of these migratory habits, they will most likely endure the assaults of the sportsmen.  The haunts of the grizzly are the same as those of the deer, for they alike prefer the bushy coverts to the more open ground, except when feeding.  The deer prefer as food the foliage of shrubs and weeds to the richest grasses, and the bear prefers clover, roots, ants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>California grouse are found in the vicinity of the Yosemite.  During the months of July and August they were formerly found quite numerous concealed in the grass and sedges of the valley and the little Yosemite; but as they are much wilder than the prairie chicken, they shun the haunts of man, and are now only found numerous in mid-summer upon or bordering on the mountain meadows and in the timber, among the pine forests, where they feed upon the pine seeds and mistletoe, which also afford them ample concealment.  Their ventriloquial powers are such that while gobbling their discordant notes, they are likely to deceive the most experience ear.  It is almost impossible to feel quite sure as to which particular tree the grouse is in without seeing it.  He seems to throw his voice about, now to this tree and now to that, concealing himself the while until the inexperienced hunter is deluded into the belief that the trees are full of grouse, when probably there is but one making all the noise.  His attention having been diverted, the hunter is left in doubt from sheer conflicting sounds as to which particular tree he saw a bird alight in.  It is generally pretty sure to " <HI REND="italics">fetch the bird</HI>
135.sgm:," if you shoot into the bunch of mistletoe into which you <HI REND="italics">supposed</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Beside the mountain grouse and mountain quail, among the most beautiful of birds, that afford the sportsman a diversity of sport, an occasional flock of pigeons, of much larger size than those of the Atlantic States, will attract attention; though I have never seen them in very large flocks.  In most of the mountain streams, and their branches, brook trout are quite abundant.  They are not, however, so ravenously accommodating, as to bite just when they are wanted.  I learned from the Indians that they would bite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Among the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada, as well as in all the lesser mountain ranges, may be found the common California blue quail, and a very curious brush or chapparel cock, known to the Spanish residents of California and Mexico as "El Paisano" (The Countryman), and as the "Correo Camino" (Road-runner), and to ornithologists as the <HI REND="italics">Geo-coc cyx Californicus</HI>
135.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n12-1">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm: They have received the name of " <HI REND="italics">countryman</HI>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1">Known as the Mexican Pheasant, though not very good to eat.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>I have never seen any ruffled grouse in the Sierra Nevada, but a species of these fine birds, are quite abundant in Oregon and Washington territory.  I have been able to solve a question regarding them, upon which naturalists have disagreed, that is, as to how they drum.  Whether the sound is produced by the wings in concussive blows upon their bodies, the air, logs or rocks?  I am able to say from personal and careful observation, that the sound of " <HI REND="italics">drumming</HI>
135.sgm:," is made, like the sound of the " <HI REND="italics">night jar</HI>
135.sgm:," exclusively by a peculiar motion of the wings <HI REND="italics">in the air</HI>
135.sgm:.  It is true, the American "pheasant" or American "partridge," commonly stands upon a log while drumming, but I have watched them while perched upon a dry small branch or twig, drum for hours most sonorously, calling upon their rivals to encounter them, and their mistresses to come and witness their gallantry.  Darwin has aptly said: "The season of love, is that of battle."  Notwithstanding the acuteness of observation of Mr. Darwin, he has been led into error in his statement that wild horses "do not make any danger signals."  They snort and paw the earth with impatience, when they cannot discover the cause of their alarm, and almost invariably circle to the leeward of the object that disturbes them.  A mule is the best of sentinels to alarm a camp on the approach of danger.  Deer and elk whistle and strike the earth perpendicularly with their feet when <HI REND="italics">jumping up</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The coyotes, or small wolves, and the grey or tree <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:climbing foxes of California, make a kind of barking noise, more like the bark of a small dog than the howl of a wolf, and therefore barking is not so much of " <HI REND="italics">an acquired</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The whistle of the elk is as complete a call to his mistress, and is as well understood, as though the female had said, "Whistle and I'll come to you."  Elk and antelope are still to be found in California, as well as wild horses, but they are now quite timid, and resort to unfrequented ranges.  The best hunting now to be found in California, except for water-fowl, is in the region of Kern River.  Near its source big-horn or mountain sheep may be killed, and from along the base of the eastern slope, antelope range into the desert.  Deer and bear may be found on either slope of the range, and among the broken hills south of the head of Tulare valley.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Wolves, foxes, badgers, coons, and other fur-clothed animals, are also quite numerous.  I have <HI REND="italics">dared</HI>
135.sgm: to question some of Mr. Darwin's facts, and as I expect this to be my last literary effort (oh, ye reviewers!), I wish to remind the publishers of Webster's Dictionary that a beaver is not an " <HI REND="italics">amphibious</HI>
135.sgm:<P>A few days after we had moved camp to the south side of the Merced, Captain Boling was prostrated with an attack of pneumonia.  From frequent wettings received while crossing the ice-cold torrents, and a too free use of this snow-water, which did not agree with many, he had for some days complained of slight illness, but after this attack he was compelled to acknowledge himself sick.  Although the severe symptoms continued but a few days, his recovery was lingering, and confined him to camp; consequently he knew but little of his rocky surroundings.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Sandino persisted in trying to make the Captain believe that most of the Yosemites had already gone through the Mono Pass, and that those remaining hidden, were but the members of Ten-ie-ya's family.  This theory was not accepted by Capt. Boling, and occasional scouting parties would still be sent out.  A few of us continued to make short excursions, more for adventure and to gratify curiosity, than with the expectation of discovering the hiding places of the Indians; although we kept up the form of a search.  We thus became familiar with most of the objects of interest.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The more practical of our command could not remain quiet in camp during this suspension of business.  Beside the ordinary routine of camp duties, they engaged in athletic sports and horse-racing.  A very fair race track was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>For a change of amusement, the members of our "Jockey Club" would mount their animals and take a look at such points of interest as had been designated in our camp-fire conversations as most remarkable.  The scenery in the Yosemite and vicinity, which is now familiar to so many, was at that time looked upon with varied degrees of individual curiosity and enjoyment, ranging from the enthusiastic, to almost a total indifference to the sublime grandeur presented.  It is doubtful if any of us could have given a very graphic description of what we saw, as the impressions then received were so far below the reality.  Distance, height, depth and dimensions were invariably under-estimated; notwithstanding this, our attempts at descriptions after our return to the settlements, were received as exaggerated "yarns."</P>
135.sgm:<P>While in Mariposa, upon one occasion not very long after the discovery of Yosemite, I was solicited by Wm. T. Whitachre, a newspaper correspondent from San Francisco, to furnish him a written description of the Valley.  This, of course, was beyond my ability to do; but I disinterestedly complied with his request as far as I could, by giving him some written details to work upon.  On reading the paper over, he advised me to reduce my estimates of heights of cliffs and waterfalls, at least fifty per centum, or my judgment would be a subject of ridicule even to my personal friends.  I had estimated El Capitan at from fifteen hundred to two thousand feet high; the Yosemite Fall at about fifteen hundred feet, and other prominent points of interest in about the same proportion.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>To convince me of my error of judgment, he stated that he had interviewed Captain Boling and some others, and that none had estimated the highest cliffs above a thousand feet.  He further said that he would not like to risk his own reputation as a correspondent, without considerable modification of my statements, etc.  Feeling outraged at this imputation, I tore up the manuscript, and left the "newspaper man" to obtain where he could such data for his patrons as would please him.  It remained for those who came after us to examine scientifically, and to correctly describe what we only observed as wonderful natural curiosities.  With but few exceptions, curiosity was gratified by but superficial examination of the objects now so noted.  We were aware that the valley was high up in the regions of the Sierra Nevada, but its altitude above the sea level was only guessed at.  The heights of its immense granite walls was an uncertainty, and so little real appreciation was there in the battalion, that some never climbed above the Vernal Fall.  They knew nothing of the beauties of the Nevada Fall, or the "Little Yosemite."  We, as a body of men, were aware that the mountains, can&tilde;ons and waterfalls were on a grandly extensive scale, but of the proportions of that scale we had arrived at no very definite conclusions.</P>
135.sgm:<P>During our explorations of the Sierras, we noticed the effects of the huge avalanches of snow and ice that had in some age moved over the smooth granite rocks and plowed the deep can&tilde;ons.  The evidences of past glacial action were frequently visible; so common, in fact, as hardly to be objects of special interest to us.  The fact that glaciers in motion existed in the vast piles of snow on the Sierras, was not dreamed of by us, or even surmised by others, until discovered, in 1870, by Mr. John Muir, a naturalist and most persistent mountain explorer, who by accurate tests verified the same, and gave his facts to the world.  Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>All of the smaller streams that pour their tribute into the valley during the melting of the snow, become later in the season but dry ravines or mere rivulets, but the principal tributaries, running up, as they do, into the lake and snow reservoirs, continue throughout the dry season to pour their ample supply.  After returning from my mountain explorations, I freely questioned Ten-ie-ya of the places we had visited.  The old chief had gradually assumed his customary manner of sociability, and if convinced by outline maps in the sand that we were familiar with a locality, he would become quite communicative, and give the names of the places described in distinct words.  Our English alphabet utterly fails to express the sounds of many of them, for they were as unpronounceable as Apache.  This difficulty is owing more or less to the guttural termination given by the Indians.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Another important fact which causes a confusion of these names is, that owing to the poverty of their language, they use the same word, or what seems to be the same, for several objects, which by accent, comparison and allusion, or by gestures, are readily understood by them, but which it is difficult for one not familiar with the dialect to comprehend, and still more difficult to illustrate or remember.  This I shall endeavor to demonstrate in giving the names applied to different localities in the valley and vicinity.</P>
135.sgm:<P>While I was endeavoring to ascertain the names of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>From this time Ten-ie-ya was secured by a rope which was fastened around his waist.  The only liberty allowed was the extent of the rope with which he was fastened.  He was a hearty feeder, and was liberally supplied.  From a lack of sufficient exercise, his appetite cloyed, and he suffered from indigestion.  He made application to Captain Boling for permission to go out from camp to the place where the grass was growing, saying the food he had been supplied with was too strong; that if he did not have grass he should die.  He said the grass looked good to him, and there was plenty of it.  Why then should he not have it, when dogs were allowed to eat it?</P>
135.sgm:<P>The Captain was amused at the application, with its irony, but surmised that he was meditating another attempt to leave us; however, he good humoredly said: "He can have a ton of fodder if he desires it, but I do not think it advisable to turn him loose to graze."  The Captain consented to the Sergeant's kindly arrangements to <HI REND="italics">tether</HI>
135.sgm: him, and he was led out to graze upon the young clover, sorrel, bulbous roots and fresh growth of ferns which were then springing up in the valley, one species of which we found a good salad.  All of these he devoured with the relish of a hungry ox.  Occasionally truffles or wood-mushrooms were brought him by Sandino and our allies, as if in kindly sympathy for him, or in acknowledgment of his rank.  Such presents and a slight deference to his standing as a chief, were always received with grunts of satisfaction.  He was easily flattered by any extra attentions to his pleasure.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Our supplies not being deemed sufficient for the expedition over the Sierras, and as those verdureless mountains would provide no forage for our animals, nor game to lengthen out our rations unless we descended to the lower levels, Capt. Boling sent a pack train to the Fresno for barley and extra rations.  All of our Indians except Sandino and Ten-ie-ya were allowed to go below with the detachment sent along as escort for the train.  While waiting for these supplies, some of the command who had been exploring up Indian Can&tilde;on, reported fresh signs at the head of that ravine.  Feeling somewhat recovered in strength, Captain Boling decided to undertake a trip out, and see for himself some of our surroundings.  Accordingly, the next morning, he started with some thirty odd men up Indian Can&tilde;on.  His design was to explore the Scho-look or Scho-tal-lo-wi branch (Yosemite Creek) to its source, or at least the Southern exposures of the divide as far east as we could go and return at night.  Before starting, I advised the taking of our blankets, for a bivouac upon the ridge, as from experience I was aware of the difficult and laborious ascent, and intimated that the excursion would be a laborious one for an invalid, if the undertaking was accomplished.  The Captain laughed as he said: "Are your distances equal to your heights?  If they correspond, we shall have ample time!"  Of course, I could make no reply, for between us, the subject of heights had already been exhausted, although the Captain had not yet been to the top of the inclosing walls.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Still, realizing the sensitive condition of his lungs, and his susceptibility to the influences of the cold and light mountain air, I knew it would not be prudent for him to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:camp at the snow-line; and yet I doubted his ability to return the same day; for this reason I felt it my duty to caution him.  A few others, who had avoided climbing the cliffs, or if they had been upon any of the high ridges, their mules had taken them there, joined in against my suggestion of providing for the bivouac.  I have before referred to the Texan's devotion to the saddle.  In it, like Camanche Indians, he will undergo incredible hardships; out of it, he is soon tired, and waddles laboriously like a sailor, until the unaccustomed muscles adapt themselves to the new service required of them; but the probabilities are against the new exercise being continued long enough to accomplish this result.  Understanding this, I concluded in a spirit of jocularity to make light of the toil myself; the more so, because I knew that my good Captain had no just conception of the labor before him.  By a rude process of measurement, and my practical experience in other mountains in climbing peaks whose heights had been established by measurements, I had approximately ascertained or concluded that my first estimate of from fifteen hundred to two thousand fect for the height of El Capitan, was much below the reality.  I had so declared in discussing these matters.  Captain Boling had finally estimated the height not to exceed one thousand feet.  Doctor Black's estimate was far below this.  I therefore felt assured that <HI REND="italics">a walk up</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Climbing over the wet, mossy rocks, we reached a level where a halt was called for a rest.  As Doctor Black came up from the rear, he pointed to a ridge above us, and exclaimed, "Thank God, we are in sight of the top at last." "Yes, Doctor," said I, "that is one of the first tops."  "How so?" he inquired;  "Is not that the summit of this ravine?"  To this I cheerfully replied,  "You will find quite a number of such tops before you emerge from this can&tilde;on."  Noticing his absence before reaching the summit, I learned he took the trail back, and safely found his weary way to camp.  Captain Boling had over-estimated his strength and endurance.  He was barely able to reach the table land at the head of the ravine, where, after resting and lunching, he visited the Falls, as he afterwards informed me.  By his order I took command of nine picked men and the two Indians.  With these I continued the exploration, while the party with the Captain <HI REND="italics">explored</HI>
135.sgm:<P>With my energetic little squad, I led the way, old Ten-ie ya in front, Sandino at his side, through forest openings and meadows, until we reached the open rocky ground on the ridge leading to what is now known as Mt. Hoffman.  I directed our course towards that peak.  We had not traveled very far, the distance does not now impress me, when as we descended toward a tributary of Yosemite creek, we came suddenly upon an Indian, who at the moment of discovery was lying down drinking from the brook.  The babbling waters had prevented his hearing our approach.  We hurried up to within fifty or sixty yards, hoping to capture him, but were discovered.  Seeing his supposed danger, he bounded off, a fine specimen of youthful vigor.  No racehorse or greyhound could have seemingly made better time than he towards a dense forest in the valley of the Scho-look.  Several rifles were raised, but I gave the order "don't shoot," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>As we knew our strength, after such a climb, was not equal to the chase of the fleet youth, he was allowed to go unmolested.  I could get no information from Ten-ie-ya concerning the object of the exploration; and as for Sandino, his memory seemed to have conveniently failed him.  With this conclusion I decided to continue my course, and moved off rapidly.  Ten-ie-ya complained of fatigue, and Sandino reminded me that I was traveling very fast.  My reply to both cut short all attempts to lessen our speed; and when either were disposed to lag in their gait, I would cry out the Indian word, "We-teach," meaning hurry up, with such emphasis as to put new life into their movements.</P>
135.sgm:<P>We soon struck an old trail that led east along the southern slope of the divide, and when I abandoned my purpose of going farther towards the Tuolumne, and turned to the right on the trail discovered, Ten-ie-ya once more found voice in an attempt to dissuade me from this purpose, saying that the trail led into the mountains where it was very cold, and where, without warm clothing at night, we would freeze.  He was entirely too earnest, in view of his previous taciturnity; and I told him so.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The snow was still quite deep on the elevated portions of the ridge and in shaded localities, but upon the open ground, the trail was generally quite bare.  As we reached a point still farther east, we perceived the trail had been recently used; the tracks had been made within a day or two.  From the appearances, we concluded they were made by Ten-ie-ya's scouts who had followed down the ridge and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>We found the Captain anxiously awaiting our return.  He was pleased with our report, and agreed in the conclusion that the Indians were encamped not very far off.  Captain Boling had suffered from fatigue and the chill air of the mountains.  In speaking of a farther pursuit of our discoveries, he said: "I am not as strong as I supposed, and will have to await the return of the pack train before taking part in these expeditions."</P>
135.sgm:<P>I told Captain Boling that upon the trip, Sandino had appeared willfully ignorant when questioned concerning the country we were exploring, and my belief that he stood in fear of Ten-ie-ya; that as a guide, no dependence could be placed upon him, and that his interpretations of Ten-ie-ya's sayings were to be received with caution when given in the old chief's presence, as Ten-ie-ya's Spanish was about equal to his own.  Captain Boling instructed me to tell Sandino, that in future, he need only act as interpreter.  He seemed satisfied with this arrangement, and said that the country appeared different from what it was when he was a boy and had been accustomed to traverse it.</P>
135.sgm:<P>When we commenced our descent into the valley Ten-ie-ya wanted us to branch off to the left, saying he was very tired, and wanted to take the best trail.  Said he, "There is a good trail through the arrow-wood rocks to the left of the can&tilde;on."  I reported this to the Captain, and expressed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:the opinion that the old chief was sincere for once; he had grumbled frequently while we were ascending the can&tilde;on in the morning, because we were compelled to climb over the moss covered bowlders, while crossing and re-crossing the stream, and he told Sandino that we should have taken the trail along the cliff above.  Captain Boling replied: "Take it, or it will be long after dark before we reach camp."  Accordingly I let Ten-ie-ya lead the way, and told him to travel fast.  He had more than once proved that he possessed an agility beyond his years.  As his parole was at a discount, I secured a small cord about his chest and attached the other end to my left wrist to maintain <HI REND="italics">telegraphic</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling and the men with him came up and took in the view before us.  One asked if I thought a bird could go down there safely.  Another wanted to know if I was aiding "Old Truthful" to commit suicide.  The last question had an echo of suspicion in my own thoughts.  I immediately surmised it possible the old sachem was leading us into another trap, where, by some preconcerted signal, an avalanche of rocks would precipitate us all to the bottom.  I asked Ten-ie-ya if this trail was used by his people; he assured me it was, by women and children; that it was a favorite trail of his.  Seeing some evidences of it having been recently used, and being assured by Sandino that it was somewhere below on this trail that Ten-ie-ya had descended to the valley when taken a prisoner, a few of us were shamed into a determination to make the attempt to go where the old chief could go.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Most of the party turned back.  They expressed a willingness to fight Indians, but they had not, they said, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This I found was the only really dangerous place, on what was facetiously called, by those who were leaving us, "a very good trail."  The last fifty or sixty feet of the descent was down the sloping side of an immense detached rock, and then down through the top of a black oak tree at the south-westerly base of the vast cliff or promontory known as the "Arrow-wood Cliff."  The "Royal Arches," the "Washington Column," and the "North Dome," occupy positions east of this trail, but upon the same vast pile of granite.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I sometime afterward pointed out the trail to a few visitors that I happened to meet at its foot.  They looked upon me with an incredulous leer, and tapped their foreheads significantly, muttering something about "Stockton Asylum."  Fearing to trust my amiability too far, I turned and left them.  Since then I have remained cautiously silent.  Now that the impetuosity of youth has given place to the more deliberative counsels of age, and all dangers to myself or others are past, I repeat, for the benefit of adventurous tourists, that on the southwesterly face of the cliff <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This portion of the cliff we designated as Ten-ie-ya's Trail, and it accords well with the scene in the Jungfrau Mountains, where Manfred, alone upon the cliffs, says:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"And you, ye craigs, upon whose extreme edge<LB>I stand, and on the torrent's brink beneath<LB>Behold the tall pines dwindled as to shrubs,<LB>In dizziness of distance; when a leap,<LB>A stir, a motion, even a breath, would bring<LB>My breast upon its rocky bosom's bed<LB>To rest forever--wherefore do I pause?<LB>I feel the impulse--yet I do not plunge;<LB>I see the peril--yet do not recede;<LB>And my brain reels--and yet my foot is firm:<LB>There is a power upon me which withholds,<LB>And makes it my fatality to live."</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>The Indian Names--Difficulty of their Interpretation--Circumstances Suggesting Names of Vernal, Nevada and Bridal Veil Falls--Mr. Richardson's Descriptions of the Falls and Round Rainbow--Py-we-ack Misplaced, and " <HI REND="italics">Illiluette</HI>
135.sgm:<P>DURING our long stay in the Yosemite, I discovered that almost every prominent object and locality in and about it, had some distinctive appellation.  Every peak and cliff, every can&tilde;on or ravine, meadow, stream and waterfall, had a designation by which it could be distinguished by the Yosemites.  I made considerable effort to acquire these names in their native purity.  Although I did not at that time learn all of them, I did in subsequent visits to the valley and to the camps of the remnants of the tribes, acquire, as I then believed, a very nearly correct pronunciation of most of them.  I used all the advantages afforded by my position as one of the Spanish interpreters, and applied myself perseveringly to the task of preserving these names; for even at that early day I realized that public interest would, in time, be attached to that wonderful locality.  I was ridiculed for the idea, or at least for the supposition that it probably would be awakened during my life-time.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I obtained many of the names of objects and locations from old Ten-ie-ya himself, whenever I could find him in a communicative mood. As he was reputed to be quite a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I was unable to converse with Ten-ie-ya except through an interpreter, but the words I noted down from the old chief's lips as they sounded to my ear at the time, getting the signification as best I could, or not at all.  There is really no more sentiment or refined imagery of expression among Indians than will be found among ignorant people of any kind.  But living as they do in close affinity with nature, natural objects first attract their attention, and the dominant characteristics of any object impress themselves upon their language.  Hence many of their words are supposed to be representative of natural sounds.  Our Po-ho-no-chee and Noot-chu&die; scouts were familiar with the dialect in common use by the Yosemites, and they also aided me, while at times they confused, in acquiring the proper names.  The territory claimed by the Po-ho-no-chees, joined that of the Yosemites on the south.  During the Summer months, they occupied the region of the Po-ho-no Meadows, and the vicinity of the Pohono Lake.  Their territory, however, extended to the right bank of the South Fork of the Merced.  It was there we found a little band on our first expedition.  Some of this band were quite intelligent, having with the Noot-chu&die;s, worked for Major Savage.  It was from them that the Major first learned that the Yosemites were a composite band, collected from the disaffected of other bands in that part of California, and what is now Nevada; and as the Major said, the dialect in common use among them was nearly as much of a mixture as the components of the band itself, for he recognized Pai-ute, Kah-we-ah and Oregon Indian words among them.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Major Savage was intimately familiar with the dialects of his Indian miners and customers, and was probably at that time the best interpreter in California of the different mountain dialects.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I consulted him freely as to the pronunciation of the names, and learned his interpretattion of the meaning of them.  These names, or most of them, were first given for publication by myself, as received from the Yosemites and Po-ho-no-chees; together with English names which had been given to some of the same points by the battalion.  I purposely avoided all attempts at description, giving instead, a few estimates of heights.  The data then furnished by myself was published in editorials, and has been mostly preserved, though in an imperfect state, from some fault in my writing or that of the proof-reader.  Reference to old files of the "California Chronicle," "Sacramento Union," "California Farmer" and the Mariposa papers, will show a somewhat different orthography from that now in use.<ANCHOR ID="n13-1a">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1a">Mr. Winchester, connected with some eastern publication, accompanied Captain Boling and myself, in the latter part of June, 1851, as far as the Tehon Pass.  During the trip I gave him a full account of the operations of the battalion, which he took notes of, and said he should publish on arriving home.  His health was very poor, and I doubt if his manuscript was ever published.  I never heard from him afterwards.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>While in the valley I made memoranda of names and important events, which I have preserved, and which, with interpretations kindly furnished me by Mr. B. B. Travis, an excellent <HI REND="italics">modern</HI>
135.sgm: interpreter, I am now using to verify my recollections and those of my comrades.  While acquiring these names, I employed every opportunity to make them familiar, but this proved to be a thankless task, or at least it was an impossible one.  The great length of some of the names, and the varied pronunciations, made the attempt an impracticable one.  I then gave attention to the substitution <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The most of the names were however, selected by myself, and adopted by our command.  This deference was awarded to my selections because I was actively interested in acquiring the Indian names and significations, and because I was considered the most interested in the scenery.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I have related in a previous chapter the incident of selecting the name "Yosemite" for the valley, not then knowing its Indian name. As the "High Fall," near which we were encamped, appeared to be the principal one of the Sierras, and was the fall <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
135.sgm:, I gave that the name of "Yosemite Falls," and in so naming it I but followed out the idea of the Indians who called it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The Ribbon Fall of the El Capitan has a sheer descent of 2,100 feet, but its beauty disappears with the melting snow.  The other falls were only designated by the names of the streams upon which they are situated.  The river Merced was spoken of as the river of Ah-wah-ne; but the three principal branches were variously designated; the main, or middle, up to the Vernal Fall, as "Yan-o-pah," the "Water Cloud" branch, and above the Vernal, as "Yo-wy-we-ack," "the twisting rock branch."</P>
135.sgm:<P>The north and south branches had their distinctive names; the north, Py-we-ack, meaning the branch of the "Glistening Rocks," and the south, Too-lool-we-ack, or more definitely, Too-lool-lo-we-ack.  The modern interpretations of some of these names may be regarded as quite fanciful, though Major Savage would declare that Indian languages were so full of figures of speech that without imagination they could not be understood.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The strictly literal interpretation of this name would be inadmissable, but it is well enough to say, that to the unconscious innocence of their primitive state, the word simply represented an effort of nature in the difficult passage of the water down through the rocky gorge.  It is derived from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:Too-lool and We-ack, and means, <HI REND="italics">&ogr; &pgr;&ogr;&tgr;&agr;&mgr;&ogr;&sfgr;, &ogr;&sgr; &dgr;&igr;&agr; &pgr;&egr;&tgr;&rgr;&agr;&sgr; &ogr;&ugr;&rgr;&egr;&igr;</HI>
135.sgm:.  This name has been published as if by authority to signify " <HI REND="italics">The Beautiful</HI>
135.sgm:<P>This really beautiful fall was visited by few of our battalion, and owing to the impracticability of following up the can&tilde;on above the fall, and the great difficulty of access to it, it was left neglected; the command contenting itself with a distant view.  In view of the discoveries of Mr. Muir that there were glaciers at its source, and that the cliff now known as "Glacier Point" may be said to mark the entrance to this "South Can&tilde;on," a name often confounded with "South Fork," and especially because of the impropriety of translating this Indian name, I think it advisable to call this the Glacier Fall, and, therefore, give it that name in this volume.  The name of "Illeuette" is not Indian, and is, therefore, meaningless and absurd.  In accordance with the customs of these mountain people of naming their rivers from the most characteristic features of their source, the North or Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced, which comes down the North Can&tilde;on from the glistening glacial rocks at its source, was called Py-we-ack, "the river of glistening rocks," or more literally, perhaps, "the river-smoothed rocks."  Whether from Pai, a river, or from Py-ca-bo, a spring, I am in doubt.  If the first syllable of the name Py-we-ack be derived from Py-ca-bo, then, probably, the name signified to them "the glistening rock spring branch," as the ice-burnished rocks at the head of Lake Ten-ie-ya stand at the source of the river.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I have never been satisfied with the poetical interpretation given the name, nor with its transfer to "Yan-o-pah," the branch of the "little cloud," as rendered by Mr. Travis.  But as Py-we-ack has been displaced from Lake Ten-ie-ya and its outlet, it is proper and in accordance with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Wai-ack was the name for "Mirror Lake," as well as for the mountain it so perfectly reflected.  The lake itself was not particularly attractive or remarkable, but in the early morning, before the breeze swept up the can&tilde;on, the reflections were so perfect, especially of what is now known as Mt. Watkins, that even our scouts called our attention to it by pointing and exclaiming: "Look at Wai-ack," interpreted to mean the "Water Rock."  This circumstance suggested the name of "Mirror Lake."  The name was opposed by some, upon the ground that all still water was a mirror.  My reply established the name.  It was that other conditions, such as light and shade, were required, as when looking into a well, the wall of the Half Dome perfecting the conditions, and that when shown another pool that was more deserving, we would transfer the name.  Captain Boling approved the name, and it was so called by the battalion.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The middle or main branch was designated by the Yosemites--from the fork of the Glacial Branch up to the Vernal Fall--as Yan-o-pah, because they were compelled to pass through the spray of the Vernal, to them a "little cloud," while passing up this can&tilde;on.  The Indian name of the Nevada Fall, "Yo-wy-we," and that of Too-lool-lo-we-ack, afforded innumerable jests and amusing comments, and when the suggestion of naming these falls was made, it was received with rude hilarity.  Names without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MIRROR LAKE--WATKINS' AND CLOUDS' REST.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:number were presented as improvements on the originals.  These names were indeed more than my own gravity would endure; Yo-wy-we being represented at first to signify the "wormy" water, from the twist or <HI REND="italics">squirm</HI>
135.sgm:<P>It would be a difficult task to trace out and account for all of our impressions, or for the forms they take; but my recollection is that the cool, moist air, and newly-springing Kentucky blue-grass at the Vernal, with the sun shining through the spray as in an April shower, suggested the <HI REND="italics">sensation</HI>
135.sgm: of spring before the name of Vernal occurred to me; while the white, foaming water, as it dashed down Yo-wy-we from the snowy mountains, represented to my mind a vast avalanche of snow.  In concluding my advocacy of these names, I represented the fact that while we were enjoying the vernal showers below, hoary-headed winter was pouring his snowy avalanches above us.  Then, quoting from Byron, I said:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The Vernal" * mounts in spray the skies, and thence again<LB>Returns in an unceasing shower, which round<LB>With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain,<LB>Is an eternal April to the ground,<LB>Making it all one emerald."</HI>
135.sgm:<P>These names were given during our long stay in the valley, at a time when <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The fragrant strife of sunshine with the morn<LB>Sweeten'd the air to ecstasy!"</HI>
135.sgm:<P>It is agreeably complimentary for me to believe that our motives in giving English names were comprehended, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Hutchings, in criticising the name Vernal, has misstated the Indian name for this fall, furnished him by myself, and published in his magazine and his "Scenes of Wonder;" and while neglecting to speak in terms of the vivid green of the yielding sod that "squirts" water, he eloquently describes the characteristics of a <HI REND="italics">vernal</HI>
135.sgm: shower; or the Yosemites "little water cloud," Can-o-pah; or, if it pleases him better, Yan-o-pah.  The name given by the Yosemites to the Ten-ie-ya branch of the Merced was unmistakably Py-we-ack.  This name has been transferred from its original locality by some <HI REND="italics">romantic</HI>
135.sgm: preserver of Indian names.  While passing over to Yan-o-pah, it was provided with an entirely new signification.  It is indeed a laughable idea for me to even suppose that a worm and acorn-eating Indian would ever attempt to construct a name to mean " <HI REND="italics">a shower of sparkling crystals</HI>
135.sgm:;" his diet must have been improved by <HI REND="italics">modern</HI>
135.sgm: intelligent culture.  The signification is certainly poetical, and is but <HI REND="italics">one step</HI>
135.sgm: removed from the sublime.  One objection only can be raised against it; it is a little too romantic; something after the style of the tradition furnished Mr. Bancroft.<ANCHOR ID="n13-1b">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-1b">From an elaboration of legend interpreted by Stephen M. Cunningham, in 1857.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>Names were given to the numerous little streams that poured into the valley during the melting of the snow, and formed many beautiful water-falls and cascades, but I shall not attempt to describe them, as it would serve no useful purpose to give the common-place, and in some instances, very <HI REND="italics">primitive</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Another witness to the propriety of the English names is Professor J. D. Whitney, State Geologist.  In his admirable "Yosemite Guide Book" he says: "The names given by the early white visitors to the region, have entirely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This criticism is undoubtedly just.  It seems as if some one had made an enormous stride across from the poetically sublime to ridiculous sentimentality.  It is fortunate that the fall dries up early in the season!</P>
135.sgm:<P>The name of "Bridal-Veil" was suggested as an appropriate English name for the Fall of the Pohono by Warren B&aelig;r, Esq., at the time editor of the "Mariposa Democrat," while we were visiting the valley together.  The appropriateness of the name was at once acknowledged, and adopted as commemorative of his visit.  Mr. B&aelig;r was a man of fine culture, a son of the celebrated Doctor B&aelig;r of Baltimore.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The Pohono takes its rise in a small lake known as Lake Pohono, twelve or fifteen miles in a southernly direction from the Fall.  The stream is fed by several small branches that run low early in the season.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The whole basin drained, as well as the meadows adjacent, was known to us of the battalion, as the Pohono branch and meadows.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The band who inhabited this region as a summer resort, called themselves Po-ho-no-chee, or Po-ho-na-chee, meaning the dwellers in Po-ho-no, as Ah-wah-ne-chee was understood to indicate the occupants of Ah-wah-nee.  This delightful summer retreat was famous for the growth of berries and grasses, and was a favorite resort for game.  The black seeds of a coarse grass found there, were used as food.  When pulverized in stone mortars, the meal was made into mush <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Cunningham says: "Po-ho-no, in the Indian language, means a belt or current of wind coming in puffs and moving in one direction."  There is such a current, in its season, on the Old Millerton Road, where the dust is swept off clean.  The Chow-chilla Indians call that the Po-ho-no.  The Po-ho-no of the Yosemite makes its appearance where the two cascade creeks enter the canon, and this air current is daily swept up the canon to the Bridal Veil Fall, and up its stream, in puffs of great power.  The water is thrown back and up in rocket-like jets, far above the fall, making it uniquely remarkable among the wonders of the valley.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Hutching's interpretation is entirely fanciful, as are most of his Indian translations."</P>
135.sgm:<P>The name for the little fall to which the name of "Virgin's Tears" has been applied, was known to us as "Pigeon Creek Fall."  The Indian name is "Lung-yo-to-co-ya"; its literal meaning is "Pigeon Basket," probably signifying to them "Pigeon Nests," or <HI REND="italics">Roost</HI>
135.sgm:.  In explanation of the name for the creek, I was told that west of El Capitan, in the valley of the stream, and upon the southern slopes, pigeons were at times quite numerous.  Near the southwest base of the cliff we found a large <HI REND="italics">cache&acute;</HI>
135.sgm:.  The supplies were put up on rocks, on trees and on posts.  These granaries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>If this <HI REND="italics">cache&acute;</HI>
135.sgm: had any connection with the name of "Pigeon Baskets," Lung-yo-to-co-ya would probably designate "The Pigeon Creek <HI REND="italics">Cache&acute;</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After a reverential salutation, "El Capitan" must now receive my attention.</P>
135.sgm:<P>It has been stated in print that the signification of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la was "Crane Mountain," and that the name was given because of the habit sand-hill cranes had of entering the valley over this cliff.  I never knew of this habit.  Many erroneous statements relating to the Yosemite have appeared--some in Appleton's Encyclop&aelig;dia, and one very amusing one in Bancroft's Traditions--but none appear to me more improbable.</P>
135.sgm:<P>During our long stay at our second visit, this cliff was invariably called by our scouts Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, and with some slight difference in the terminal syllable, was so called by Ten-ie-ya.  This word was invariably translated to mean the "Rock Chief," or "The Captain."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Upon one occasion I asked, "Why do you call the cliff Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?"  The Indian's reply was, "Because he looks like one."  I then asked, "What was meant by <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
135.sgm:<P>This was the first intimation that any of us had of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:reason why the name was applied, and it was <HI REND="italics">shown</HI>
135.sgm:<P>To-tor-kon, is the name for a sand-hill crane, and ni-yul-u-ka, is the Pai-ute for head; but "crane-head" can scarcely be manufactured out of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la.  It appears to me most probable that Tote-ack-ah-noo-la is derived from "ack," a rock, and To-whon-e-o, meaning chief.  I am not etymologist enough to understand just how the word has been constructed, but am satisfied that the primates of the compound are rock and chief.  If, however, I am found in error, I shall be most willing to acknowledge it, for few things appear more uncertain, or more difficult to obtain, than a complete understanding of the <HI REND="italics">soul</HI>
135.sgm:<P>In leaving this subject, I would say that before it be too late, a careful and full collection of vocabularies of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
135.sgm:<P>In adopting the Spanish interpretation, "El Capitan," for Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, we pleased our mission interpreters and conferred upon the majestic cliff a name corresponding to its dignity.  When this name was approved it set aside forever those more numerous than belong to royal families.  It is said by Mr. Hutchings that a profile likeness is readily traced on the angle of the cliff.  The one pointed out to me was above the pine tree alcove on the southern face of the cliff, half way up its wall.  It appeared to have been formed by the peculiar conformation of the rock and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>"The Fallen Rocks," "The Frog Mountains," or "Three Brothers," the "Yosemite Falls," "The Lost Arrow," "Indian Can&tilde;on" and "The Arrow-wood Rocks" have already been noticed in these pages.  It remains for me to briefly notice a few more objects and close this chapter.  The names "North Dome," "South Dome" and "Half Dome" were given by us during our long stay in the valley from their localities and peculiar configuration.  Some changes have been made since they were adopted.  The peak called by us the "South Dome" has since been given the name of "Sentinel Dome," and the "Half Dome," Tis-sa-ack, represesented as meaning the "Cleft Rock," is now called by many the "South Dome."<ANCHOR ID="n13-2">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-2">This cliff was climbed for the first time by Mr. George G. Anderson, on October 12th. 1875.  It has now a stair-way running over the difficult part of the ascent.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SENTINEL ROCK.  (3,043 feet in height.)</P>
135.sgm:<P>The name of "Glacier Point" is said to be Pa-til-le-ma, a translation of which I am unable to give.  IIo-yas, and not Lo-ya, as has been stated by some, referred to certain holes in detached rocks west of the Sentinel, which afforded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:"milling privileges" for a number of squaws, and hence, the locality was a favorite camp ground.  "The Sentinel" or "Loya," simply marked the near locality of the Ho-yas or mortars, or " <HI REND="italics">The</HI>
135.sgm: camp ground;" as it does now <HI REND="italics">The Hotels</HI>
135.sgm:.  It was a common practice for visitors to confer new names on the objects of their enthusiastic admiration, and these were frequenly given to the public through letters to newspapers, while others may be found in the more enduring monuments of literature.  It is a matter of no surprise that so few of them ever <HI REND="italics">stuck</HI>
135.sgm:.  But little change has really been made in the English names for the more important objects within the valley and in its immediate vicinity.  The Cathedral Rocks and spires, known as Poo-see-na-chuc-ka, meaning "Mouse-proof Rocks," from a fancied resemblance in shape to their acorn magazines or <HI REND="italics">cache&grave;s</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Of Ko-su&die;-kong, the name of the "Three Graces," I never learned the meaning.  Ta-pun-ie-me-te is derived from Ta-pun-ie, meaning the toes, because of walking on tip-toes across, and referred to the "stepping stones" that were at the lower ford.  Mr. Travis' "succession of rocks" simply indicated the <HI REND="italics">turning-off</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Some romantic believers in the natural tendencies of the Indians to be poetical in their expressions, twist the most vulgar common-place expressions and names into significations poetically refined, and of devotional sincerity.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Others have taken the same license in their desire to cater to the taste of those credulous admirers of the NOBLE RED MAN, the ideal of romance, the reality of whom is graded low down in the scale of humanity.  Mr. Hutchings, who, were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>These interpretations, like the "sparkling shower of crystals" are more artistically imaginative than correct.  The Pai-ute for wind, is Ni-gat, and the Kah-we-ah, is Yah-i, one or the other of which tongues were used by the Yosemites; though the Pai-ute, or a dialect of it, was given the preference.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The savages <HI REND="italics">have</HI>
135.sgm:<P>They do not as a rule look to the Great Spirit for immediate protection from evil, but instead, rely upon amulets, incense and charms, or " <HI REND="italics">medicine</HI>
135.sgm:<P>They believe that the spirits of the dead who have not, through proper ceremonies, been released from the body and allowed at once to go to the happy land, were evil spirits that were doomed to haunt certain localities.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Waterfalls seemed not to engage their attention for their beauty, but because of the power they manifested; and in none of their objections made to the abandonment of their home, was there anything said to indicate any appreciation of the scenery.  Their misfortunes, accidents and failures were generally believed to have resulted from evil spiritual interference, and to insure success in any undertaking, these dark or evil spirits must first be conciliated through their "medicine men," from whom they obtain absolution.</P>
135.sgm:<P>All spirits that had not been released and taken their flight to their happy Western spirit-land were considered as evil; and only the Great Spirit was believed to be very good.  The Indians of the Yosemite Valley did not look upon Tote-ack-ah-nu&die;-lah as a veritable Deity or "semi-Deity."  They looked upon this cliff, and the representation of the likeness of a human face, with the same mysterious awe and superstitious feeling that they entertained for some other objects; though perhaps their reverence was in a somewhat higher degree stimulated by this imposing human appearance; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:their ability, therefore, the better to personify it.  They regarded this vast mountain as an emblem of some mysterious power, beyond their comprehension.  From my knowledge of their <HI REND="italics">religious belief</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The special inconsistency of this belief seems to be, that if one of these demons can lure any one to destruction, the victim will be compelled to take the place and occupation of the evil spirit, who is at once liberated and takes its flight to join its family or such members of it, as are already with the blessed.  This idea seemed to be based upon the natural selfishness of human nature, that would gladly fix its responsibilities and sufferings upon another.  A writer in his descriptions of the Yosemite says: "The savage lowers his voice to a whisper, and crouches trembling past Po-ho-no, while the very utterance of the name is so dreaded by him, that the discoverers of the valley obtained it with difficulty."  These statements were prefaced by the assertion that "Po-ho-no is an evil spirit of the Indians' mythology."  On our second visit to the valley, it will be remembered, we found huts built by the Yosemites not far from the Po-ho-no Fall.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I never found any difficulty in learning the name of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Savages are seldom able to trace to themselves the cause of misfortune, and hence evil spirits must bear the burden of their complaint.  For this service they are well paid through their representatives, the "medicine men."  I have often been amused, and agreeably entertained while listening to their traditionary literature.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Among the Chippewa and Dahcota tribes, my likeness to a brother, who was a trader, was recognized, and many times I was honored by a prominent place being given me in their lodges and at their dances.  Some of their mysteries I was not permitted to witness, but the consecration of the ground for the dance, which is performed with great ceremony, I have several times seen, and had its signification fully explained to me.  The ceremony differs but little among the different tribes, and consists of invocations, burning incense, scattering down, feathers and evergreens upon the pathway or floor of the dance, lighting of the sacred fires with their ancient fire-sticks, which are still preserved among the priests, and repeating certain cabalistic words, the meaning of which they do not even pretend to understand, but which are supposed to have a most potent influence.  They also have their pantomimes and romances, which they repeat to each other like children.  This legendary literature is largely imaginative, but I found the California Indians less poetical in thought and feeling than eastern tribes, and less musical, though perhaps as primitively figurative in expression.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Though seemingly unimpressed by their sublime surroundings, their figures and comparisons, when not objectionable, were beautiful, because natural.  The Pai-ute and Mono Colony originally established by Ten-ie-ya, was the result of a desire to improve their physical condition.  They were attached to this valley as a home.  The instinctive attraction that an Indian has for his place of nativity is incomprehensible; it is more than a religious sentiment; it is a passion.  Here, sheltered in a measure from the storms of winter, and the burning heat of summer, they met as in an earthly paradise, to exchange the products of either side of the Sierras, to engage in a grand hunt and festival offer up religious sacrifices, and awaken the echoes of the valley with their vociferous orations.  Should their skill fail them in the chase, and the mountain or brook refuse their luscious offerings, they had a never-failing resource in the skill with which they could dispossess the native Californian, or the newly arrived immigrant of his much prized herds, and <HI REND="italics">translate</HI>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE INDIAN BELLE.</P>
135.sgm:<P>But, when the influence of the "gold en era" finally reached this once blissfully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>What then was there lacking, to make the Yosemites a happy people, removed as they were from the bad influences of whiskey and the white man's injustice?  Only this: "the whites would not let them alone."  So Ten-ie-ya had said, as if aggrieved.  Like all his race, and perhaps like all ignorant, passionate and willful persons, he appeared unconscious of his own wrong-doing, and of the inevitable fate that he was bringing upon himself and his people.</P>
135.sgm:<P>In his talk with Major Savage, he had spoken of the verdure clothing the valley, as sufficient for his wants, but at the time, knowing that acorns formed the staple of their food, and that clover, grass, sorrel and the inner bark of trees were used to guard against biliousness and eruptive diseases, little heed was given to his declaration.  Now, however, that we saw the valley clothed with exquisite and useful verdure, for June was now at hand, Ten-ie-ya's remarks had a greater significance, and we could understand how large flocks and herds had been stolen, and fattened to supply their wants.  The late claimants to this lovely locality, "this great moral show," have been relieved of their charge by act of Congress, and fifty thousand dollars given them for their claims.  It will probably now remain forever free to visitors.  The builders of the toll roads and trails should also receive fair compensation for their pioneer labors in building them, that they may also be free to all.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:When this is done, this National Park will be esteemed entirely worthy of this great republic and of the great golden State that has accepted its guardianship.<ANCHOR ID="n13-3">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n13-3">All trails within the original grant have now been made free.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>Perhaps no one can better than myself realize the value of the labors performed by the early pioneers, that has made it possible for tourists to visit in comfort some of the most prominent objects of interest; but " <HI REND="italics">a National Park</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The names of the different objects and localities of especial interest have now become well established by use.  It is not a matter of so much surprise that there is such a difference in the orthography of the names.  I only wonder that they have been retained in a condition to be recognized.  It is not altogether the fault of the interpreters that discrepancies exist in interpretation or pronunciation, although both are often undesignedly warped to conform to the ideality of the interpreter.  Many of the names have been modernized and adorned with <HI REND="italics">transparencies</HI>
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135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>A Mountain Storm--Delay of Supplies--Clams and Ipecac--Arrival of Train--A Cute Indian--Indian Sagacity--A Dangerous Weapon--Capture of Indian Village--An Eloquent Chief--Woman's Rights <HI REND="italics">versus</HI>
135.sgm:<P>A MOUNTAIN storm raged with such violence as to stampede the mules of the pack-train while the escort were encamped on the South Fork.  The mules were not overtaken until they reached the foot-hills of the Fresno.  In the meantime, while impatiently awaiting their return, our rations gave out.  In order to somewhat appease our hunger, Dr. Black distributed his hospital stores among us.  There were some canned fruits and meats, and several cans of oysters and clams.  The southerners of the command waived their rights to the clams, but cast lots for the oysters.  Thinking we had a prize in the clams, we brought to bear our early recollections of Eastern life, and compounded a most excellent and, what we supposed would be, a most nourishing soup.  Our enjoyment, however, of this highly prized New England dish was of short duration; for from some cause, never satisfactorily explained by Dr. Black, <HI REND="italics">or other eminent counsel</HI>
135.sgm:, our Eastern mess, as if moved by one impulse of re-gurgitation, <HI REND="italics">gave up their clams</HI>
135.sgm:.  Fortunately for us our supplies arrived the next morning; for the game procurable was not sufficient for the command.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling had in his report to Major Savage, complained of the incapacity of Sandino as guide, and expressed the opinion that he stood in awe of Ten-ie-ya.  By letter, the Major replied, and particularly advised Captain Boling that implicit confidence could be placed in Cow-chitty and his scouts, as the sub-chief was an old enemy of Ten-ie-ya, and was esteemed for his sagacity and wood-craft, which was superior to that of any Indian in his tribe.  Captain Boling had improved in health and strength, and concluded to venture on his contemplated expedition over the mountains.  He at once ordered preparations to be made.  A camp-guard was detailed, and a special supply train fitted out.  All was ready for a start in the morning.  During the evening Captain Boling consulted our new guide as to what trail would be best to follow to the Mono pass and over the mountains.  Cow-chitty had already learned from our Po-ho-no scouts and those of his own tribe, the extent of our explorations, and had had a long talk with Sandino as well as with Ten-ie-ya.  The mission Indian and the old chief tried to make the new guide believe that the Yosemites had gone over the mountains to the Monos.  Indian-like, he had remained very grave and taciturn, while the preparations were going on for the expedition.  Now, however, that he was consulted by Captain Boling, he was willing enough to give his advice, and in a very emphatic manner declared his belief to the Captain that Ten-ie-ya's people were not far off; that they were either hiding in some of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I had accompanied our guide in advance of the command, but observing that our course was a zig-zag one, some times almost doubling on our trail, I stopped and told the guide to halt until the Captain came up.  He had been following the ridges without a sign of a trail being visible, although he had sometimes pointed to small pieces of coarse granite on the rocky divides, which he said had been displaced by Ten-ie-ya's scouts.  That in going out or returning from their camps, they had kept on the rocky ridges, and had avoided tracking the snow or soft ground, so as to prevent the Americans from following them.  As we stopped, he called me a little out of hearing of those with me, and by pantomime and a few words indicated his belief in the near presence of Indians.</P>
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135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>When the Captain came up he said: "The hiding-place of the Yosemites is not far off.  If they had crossed the mountains their scouts would not be so careful to hide their trail.  They would follow the old trail if they came to watch you, because it is direct, and would only hide their tracks when they were again far from the valley and near their rancheria."  This was, in part, an answer to Captain Boling's inquiry as to why we had left the old trail, and gone so far out of our way.  I explained to him what Cow-chitty had stated, and pointed out what the guide or scout said was a fresh trail.  The Captain looked tired and disheartened, but with a grim smile said: "That may be a fresh Indian track, but I can't see it.  If left to my own feelings and judgment, I should say we were on another wild-goose chase.  If the guide can see tracks, and thinks he has got'em this time, I reckon it is better to follow on; but if there is any short-cut tell him to give us some landmarks to go by; for I find I am not as strong as I thought.  Let us take another look at this <HI REND="italics">fresh</HI>
135.sgm: trail, and then you may get Cow-chitty's idea as to the probable course this trail will take further on."  As we moved up the trail a little farther, the expert scout pointed out more fresh signs, but Captain Boling failed to discern a trail, and gave up the examination, and as he seated himself for a momentary rest, said: "I reckon it is all right, Doc.  The Major says in his letter that I can bet on Cow-chitty every time.  But I can't see any more of a trail on this rocky ridge than I can see the trail of that wood-pecker as he flies through the air, but I have some faith in instinct, for I reckon that is what it is that enables him to follow a trail that he imagines should be there.  We shall have to trust him to follow it, and let him have his own way as you would a fox-hound; if he don't, puppy-like, take the back track, or run wild with us over some of these ledges."  Old Ten-ie-ya was now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Before this Sandino had professed to agree with Ten-ie-ya, but now he carefully withheld his own opinions, and as carefully rendered his interpretations.  He feared Cow-chitty more than Ten-ie-ya; and he was frequently seen to cross himself while muttering his prayers.  Spencer and myself re-assured the timid creature, and made him quite happy by telling him that we would guard him against the "Gentiles," as he called the natives.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I explained to Cow-chitty our inability to follow the tracks as he did over the bare granite.  This flattered him, and he then pointed out his own method of doing so, which was simple enough with one of keen sight.  It consisted entirely in discovering fragments of stone and moss that had been displaced, and broken off and scattered upon the ground.  The upper surface of the broken fragments of stone were smooth and bleached, while the under surface was dark or colored.  It was impossible to walk over these stony ridges without displacing some of the fragments, and these the quick eye of Cow-chitty was sure to discover.  Cow-chitty was pleased when told of Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>He then proposed that Captain Boling send out scouts to intercept and capture the Yosemite scouts, who might be below us watching the valley.  This being interpreted to Captain Boling, he at once adopted the suggestion of the cout.  He selected three of our best runners, and directed Cow-chitty to select three of his.  These were sent out in pairs--an Indian and a white man.  The scouts were placed under direction of the sub-chief, who followed the trail, and indicated to the Captain the most direct route for the main body to follow.  In health Captain Boling was athletic and ambitious on the march.  He had now, however, over-estimated his strength, and suffered considerably from fatigue; but the halt afforded him a rest that very much refreshed him.  I traveled with him during the remainder of the march, so as to be near him as interpretor, and took charge of Ten-ie-ya.  The Captain, Ten-ie-ya, Sandino and myself traveled together.  Our march was more leisurely than in the earlier part of the day.  This allowed Captain Boling to somewhat recover from his fatigue.</P>
135.sgm:<P>On an ascending spur that ran down to the Py-we-ack, we found Cow-chitty quietly awaiting our approach.  As we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>While the Captain was studying the nature of the ground before us, and making his arrangements to capture the village, our scouts were discovered in full chase of an Indian picket, who was running towards the village as if his life depended upon his efforts.  In the excitement of the moment Captain Boling ordered us to double-quick and charge, thinking, as he afterwards said, that the huts could not be much more than half a mile away.  Such a mistake could only originate in the transparent air of the mountains.  The village was fully two miles or more away.  We did, however, double-quick, and I kept a gait that soon carried Ten-ie-ya and Sandino, with myself, ahead of our scattering column.  Finding the rope with which I held Ten-ie-ya an encumbrance in our rapid march, I wound it round his shoulder and kept him in front of me.  While passing a steep slope of overlapping granite rock, the old chief made a sudden spring to the right, and attempted to escape down the ragged precipice.  His age was against him, for I caught him just as he was about to let himself drop from the projecting ledge to the ground below; his feet were already over the brink.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>I felt somewhat angered at the trick of the old fellow in attempting to relieve himself from my custody, and the delay it had occasioned me; for we had taken the most direct although not the smoothest course.  I resumed our advance at a gait that hurried the old sachem forward, perhaps less carefully and more rapidly than comported with the dignity of his years and rank.  I was amused at the proposition of one of the "boys" who had witnessed the transaction, to "shoot the old devil, and not be bothered with him any more."  I of course declined this humane proposition to relieve me of further care, and at once became the chief's most devoted defender, which observing, he afterwards told Captain Boling that I was "very good."  As we reached the more gently descending ground near the bottom of the slope, an Indian came running up the trail below us that led to the Rancheria.  His course was at an acute angle to the one pursued by us toward the village, which was now but a few rods off.  I ordered Sandino to cut him off and capture him before he should reach the camp.  This was accomplished with great energy and a good degree of pride.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The Yosemites had already discovered our approach, but too late for any concerted resistance or for successful escape, for Lt. Crawford at the head of a portion of the command, dashed at once into the center of the encampment, and the terror-stricken Indians immediately threw up their bare hands in token of submission, and piteously cried out "pace! pace!" (peace, peace).  As I halted to disarm the scout captured by Sandino, I was near enough to the camp to hear the expressions of submission.  I was compelled to laugh at the absurd performances of Sandino, who to terrify his prisoner, was persistently holding in his face an old double-barreled pistol.  I was aware the weapon was a harmless one, for one hammer was gone, and the other could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>While Captain Boling was counting his prisoners and corralling them with a guard, I, by his previous order, restrained Ten-ie-ya from any communication with his people.  The chief of this village was a young man of perhaps thirty years of age.  When called upon by the Captain to state how many were under his command, he answered that those in the encampment were all that was left; the rest had scattered and returned to the tribes they sprung from.  Ten-ie-ya seemed very anxious to answer the interrogations made to the young chief, but Captain Boling would not allow his farther interference, and jokingly told me to send him over among the women who were grouped a little aside, as he was now about as harmless.  I acted upon the suggestion, and upon his being told that he had the liberty of the camp if he made no further attempts to escape, the old fellow stepped off briskly to meet his four squaws, who were with this band, and who seemed as pleased as himself at their re-union.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling felt satisfied that the answer given by this half-starved chief, and the few braves of his wretched looking band, were as truthful as their condition would corroborate.  Finding themselves so completely surprised, notwithstanding their extreme vigilance, and comparing the well kept appearance of their old chief with their own worn out, dilapidated condition, they with apparent anxiety <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:expressed a willingness for the future to live in peace with the Americans.  All hopes of avoiding a treaty, or of preventing their removal to the Reservation, appeared to have at once been abandoned; for when the young chief was asked if he and his band were willing to go to the Fresno, he replied with much emotion of gesture, and as rendered by Sandino to Spencer and myself: "Not only willing, but anxious;" for, said he: "Where can we now go that the Americans will not follow us?"  As he said this, he stretched his arms out toward the East, and added:  "Where can we make our homes, that you will not find us?"  He then went on and stated that they had fled to the mountains without food or clothing; that they were worn out from watching our scouts, and building <HI REND="italics">signal-fires</HI>
135.sgm:<P>They had been anxious to embroil us in trouble by drawing us into the can&tilde;ons of the Tuolumne, where were some Pai-utes wintering in a valley like Ah-wah-ne.  They had hoped to be secure in this retreat until the snow melted, so that they could go to the Mono tribe and make a home with them, but that now he was told the Americans would follow them even there, he was willing, with all his little band, to go to the plains with us."  After the young chief had been allowed full liberty of speech, and had sat down, Ten-ie-ya again came forward, and would have doubtless made a <HI REND="italics">confession of faith</HI>
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135.sgm:<P>The scene was a busy one.  The squaws and children exhibited their delight in the prospect of a change to a more genial locality, and where food would be plenty.  While watching the preparations of the squaws for the transfer of their household treasures and scanty stores, my attention was directed to a dark object that appeared to be crawling up the base of the first granite peak above their camp.  The polished surface of the gleaming rock made the object appear larger than the reality.  We were unable to determine what kind of an animal it could be; but one of our scouts, to whom the name of "Big Drunk" had been given, pronounced it a papoose, although some had variously called it a bear, a fisher or a coon.  "Big Drunk" started after it, and soon returned with a bright, active boy, entirely naked, which he coaxed from his slippery perch.  Finding himself an object of curiosity his fright subsided, and he drew from its hiding-place, in the bushes near by, a garment that somewhat in shape, at least, resembled a man's shirt.  " <HI REND="italics">The Glistening Rocks</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Some three or four years afterward, the boy, as if to illustrate the folly of the Captain in trying to civilize and educate him, ran away from his patron, taking with him two valuable, thorough-bred Tennessee horses, much prized by the Captain; besides money, clothing and arms <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This was accomplished before sun down, and being relieved of duty, a few of us ran across the outlet of the lake, and climbing the divide on the south side of the lake, beheld a sunset view that will long be remembered.  It was dark when we reached camp, and after a scanty repast, we spread our blankets, and soon were wrapped in slumber sweet.</P>
135.sgm:<P>We were awakened by the cold, which became more uncomfortable as night advanced, and finding it impossible to again compose ourselves to sleep, Captain Boling aroused the camp, and preparations were made by the light of the blazing camp-fires for an early start for the valley.  Desiring some clean, fresh water, I went to the lake as the nearest point to obtain it, when, to my surprise, I found that the new ice formed during the night and connecting the old ice with the shore of the lake, was strong enough to bear me up.  At a point where the old ice had drifted near, I went out some distance upon it, and it appeared strong enough to have borne up a horse.  This was about the 5th of June, 1851.  The change of temperature from summer in the valley to winter on the mountains, without shelter, was felt by us all.  After a hasty breakfast, the word was passed to assemble, and we were soon all ready for the order to march.  All at once there was turmoil and strife in camp, and what sounded to my ears very much like a Chinese concert.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:Captain Boling was always a man of gallantry, and in this instance would not allow the squaws to take the burden of the baggage.  Hence the confusion and delay.  He ordered the Indians to carry the packs--burdens they had imposed on their women.  This order brought down upon him the vituperations of the squaws and sullen murmurs from the "noble red men;" as often happens in domestic interference, <HI REND="italics">the family was offended</HI>
135.sgm:<P>As soon as the Captain was made aware of the old fellow's object in having "a talk," he cut short the debate by ordering one of the lieutenants to see that every Indian, as well as squaw, was properly loaded with a just proportion of their burdens.  The real object of the Captain was to facilitate the return to the valley, by making it easy for the squaws and children to accompany us through without delays.  One amusing feature in this arrangement was, that long after the men had been silenced, their squaws continued to murmur at the indignity practiced on their disgraced lords.  I have my doubts, even to this day, whether the standard of women's rights was ever again <HI REND="italics">waved</HI>
135.sgm:<P>In order to take the most direct route to the valley, Captain Boling selected one of the young Yosemite Indians to lead the way with our regular guide.  Being relieved of the charge of Ten-ie-ya, I took my usual place on the march with the guide.  This position was preferred by me, because it afforded ample opportunity for observation and time for reflection; and beside, it was in my nature to be in advance.  The trail followed, after leaving the lake, led us over bare granite slopes and hidden paths, but the distance was materially shortened.  A short distance below the bottom land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>By close observation I was able to discover that the trail led up its sloping surface, and was assured by the guide that the trail was a good one.  I felt doubtful of the Captain's willingness to scale that rocky slope, and halted for him to come up.  The Captain followed the trail to its termination in the soil, and saw the cause of my having halted.  Upon the discoloration of the rock being pointed out as the continuation of the trail, he glanced up the granite slope and said, "Go on, but be watchful, for a slide into the gorge would bring as certain death as a slide from that San Joaquin trail, which I have not yet forgotten."  Some of the command did not fancy this any more than they did the Ten-ie-ya trail down "Indian Can&tilde;on."  We all pulled off our boots and went up this slope bare-footed.  Seeing there was no real danger, the most timid soon moved up as fearless as the others.  I, with the advance, soon reached the soil above, and at the top halted until the Indians and our straggling column closed up.  As I looked about me, I discovered, unfolding to my sight, one of the most charming views in this sublimest scenery of nature.  During the day before, we had looked with astonishment on the almost boundless peaks, and snow-capped mountains, to be seen from the Mt. Hoffman divide.  But here some of the same views appeared illuminated.  In our ascent up the mountain, we had apparently met the rising sun.  The scene was one long to be remembered for its brilliancy, although not describable.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Addison, in the <HI REND="italics">Spectator</HI>
135.sgm:, says: "Our imagination loves to be filled with an object, or to grasp at anything that is too big for its capacity.  We are flung into a pleasing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The recollections of the discomforts of the night were banished by the glory of the morning as here displayed.  Even the beauties of the Yosemite, of which I was so ardent an admirer, were for the moment eclipsed by this gorgeously grand and changing scene.  The aurora that had preceded the rising sun was as many-hued, and if possible more glorious, than the most vivid borealis of the northern climes.  But when the sun appeared, seemingly like a sudden flash, amidst the distant peaks, the climax was complete.  My opportunities for examining the mountain scenery of the Sierra Nevada above the immediate vicinity of the Yosemite, were such as to only enable me to give a somewhat general description, but the views that I had during our explorations afforded me glimpses of the possibilities of sublime mountain scenery, such as I had never before comprehended, although familiar with the views afforded from some of the peaks of Mexico and of the Rocky Mountains.  I doubt even if the Yellow Stone, supreme in some of its attractions, affords such varied and majestic beauty.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Looking back to the lovely little lake, where we had been encamped during the night, and watching Ten-ie-ya as he ascended to our group, I suggested to the Captain that we name the lake after the old chief, and call it "Lake <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LAKE TEN-IE-YA, ONE OF THE YOSEMITE FOUNTAINS.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>Noticing my look of surprise, he jokingly said that if I had only studied divinity instead of medicine, I could have then fully gratified my passion for christening.  This, of course, brought out a general guffaw, and thinking me annoyed, he said: "Gentlemen, I think the name an appropriate one, and shall use it in my report of the expedition.  Beside this, it is rendering a kind of justice to perpetuate the name of the old chief."</P>
135.sgm:<P>When Ten-ie-ya reached the summit, he left his people and approached where the Captain and a few of us were halting.  Although he had been snubbed by the Captain that morning, he now seemed to have forgotten it, and his rather rugged countenance glowed with healthful exercise in the sunlight.  I had handled him rather roughly the day before, but as he now evidently wished to be friendly, I called him up to us, and told him that we had given his name to the lake and river.  At first, he seemed unable to comprehend our purpose, and pointing to the group of Glistening peaks, near the head of the lake, said: "It already has a name; we call it Py-we-ack."  Upon my telling him that we had named it Ten-ie-ya, because it was upon the shores of the lake that we had found his people, who would never return to it to live, his countenance fell and he at once left our group and joined his own family circle.  His countenance as he left us indicated that he thought the naming of the lake no equivalent for the loss of his territory.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I never at any time had real personal dislike for the old sachem.  He had always been an object of study, and I sometimes found in him profitable entertainment.  As he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The whole mountain region of the water-sheds of the Merced and Tuolumne rivers afford the most delightful views to be seen anywhere of mountains, cliffs, cascades and waterfalls, grand forests and mountain meadows, and the Soda Springs are yet destined to become a favorite summer resort.  Mr. Muir has well said that the "upper Tuolumne valley is the widest, smoothest, most serenely spacious, and in every way the most delightful summer pleasure park in all the High Sierras."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Now that it has become a part of the new National Park surrounding the old grant (see new map), and good trails reach it, wagon roads will soon be extended into the very "heart of the Sierras"</P>
135.sgm:<P>We reached our camp in the valley without accident.  Captain Boling at once gave orders to make preparations for our return to the Fresno.  The next day we broke camp and moved down to the lower end of the valley near where we camped on the first night of our discovery, near the little meadow at the foot of the Mariposa Trail.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>At sunrise the next morning, or rather as the reflections on the cliffs indicated sunrise, we commenced our ascent of the steep trail.  As I reached the height of land where the moving column would soon perhaps forever shut out from view the immortal "Rock Chief," my old sympathies returned, and leaving the command to pursue its heedless way, I climbed to my old perch where Savage had warned me of danger.  As I looked back upon El Capitan, his bald forehead was cooling in the breeze that swept by me from the " <HI REND="italics">Summer land" below</HI>
135.sgm:, and his cheerful countenance reflected back the glory of the rising sun.  Feeling my own inferiority while acknowledging the majesty of the scene, I looked back from Mt. Beatitude, and quoting from Byron, exclaimed:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Yosemite!<LB>"Thy vale(s) of evergreen, thy hills of snow<LB>Proclaim thee Nature's varied favorite now."</HI>
135.sgm:<P>We reached the Fresno without the loss of a captive, and as we turned them over to the agent, we were formally commended for the success of the expedition.</P>
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135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>The Flora of the Region of the Yosemite--General Description of the Valley and its Principal Points of Interest, with their Heights.</P>
135.sgm:<P>A MARKED and peculiar feature observed in the landscape of the Merced River slopes, while going to the Yosemite, especially on the Coultersville route, is the dense growth of the chamiso and the manzanita.  These shrubs are found most abundant below the altitude of the growth of sugar-pine, upon dry, slaty ground; though a larger variety of manzanita, distinguishable by its larger blossoms and fruit, and its love of shade and moist clay-slate soil, may be found growing even among the sugar-pine.  A peculiarity of this shrub is, that like the Madron&tilde;a and some trees in Australia, it sheds a portion of its outer bark annually, leaving its branches beautifully bright and clean.  The manzanita, when in full bloom, is one of the most beautiful of shrubs; its delicately tinted and fragrant blossoms filling the air with the perfume of an apple-orchard, while its rich evergreen leaves are only shed as others put forth.  The name, manzanita, is Spanish, signifying little apple--the fruit in flavor, but more especially in smell, resembling the apple.</P>
135.sgm:<P>These chamiso and manzanita thickets are almost impenetrable to large animals, except the California lion and grizzly bear.  At certain seasons of the year, during their trips to and from the High Sierras, when the berries are ripe, these coverts are the resort of such visitors.  The grizzly comes to indulge his fondness for the little apples, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>In going to the Yosemite by way of the Mariposa route, after reaching the summit of the gap or pass in the "Black Ridge" or Chow-chilla mountain, over which the Mariposa route passes, to the South Fork of the Merced River, the yellow pine, the sugar pine, the Douglass fir and two other species of fir, are seen in all their glory.  Here, too, is to be found the variety of white or yellow cedar ( <HI REND="italics">Libo cedrus decurrens</HI>
135.sgm:<P>At the time I first passed over this route there was but a dim Indian trail; now, a very good stage or wagon-road occupies it.  As the descent to the South Fork is commenced, dogwood will be observed growing at the head of a little mountain brook that has its source in the pass, together with willows and other small growths of trees and shrubs.  The "bush-honeysuckle," when in bloom, is here especially beautiful; and several fragrant-blossomed shrubs will attract attention--the kalmia, especially.  The forest on this route is equaled by few in California, and it extends to the Yosemite almost uninterrupted, except by the river and a few mountain meadows.  The Coultersville route also affords like views of uninterrupted forest, even to the verge of the valley, but confined as the trail was when it was first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Greeley says: "The Sierra Nevadas lack the glorious glaciers, the frequent rains, the rich verdure, the abundant cataracts of the Alps, but they far surpass them; they surpass any other mountains I ever saw, in wealth and grace of trees.  Look down from almost any of their peaks, and your range of vision is filled, bounded, satisfied, by what might be termed a tempest-tossed sea of evergreens, filling every upland valley, covering every hillside, crowning every peak but the highest with their unfading luxuriance.</P>
135.sgm:<P>"That I saw, during this day's travel, many hundreds of pines eight feet in diameter, with cedars at least six feet, I am confident; and there were miles of such and smaller trees of like genus, standing as thick as they could grow.  Steep mountain sides, allowing these giants, to grow rank above rank, without obstructing each other's sunshine, seem peculiarly favorable to the production of these serviceable giants.  But the summit meadows are peculiar in their heavy fringe of balsam fir of all sizes, from those barely one foot high to those hardly less than two hundred; their branches surrounding them in collars, their extremities gracefully bent down by weight of winter snows, making them here, I am confident, the most beautiful trees on earth.  The dry promontories which separate these meadows are also covered with a species of spruce, which is only less graceful than the firs aforesaid.  I never before enjoyed such a tree-feast as on this wearying, difficult ride."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Had Mr. Greeley taken more time, it would not have been so wearying to himself or mule.  He rode sixty miles, on one mule the day he went to the Yosemite, but his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:observations of what he saw are none the less just and valuable, though but few of the pine trees will measure eight feet in diameter.  It is true, probably, that few forests in the United States are so dense and beautiful in variety as those seen on the old Mariposa route to the Yosemite by way of the meadows of the Pohono Summit.  About these meadows the firs especially attract attention, from the uniform or geometrical regularity their branches assume.  No landscape gardener could produce such effects as are here freely presented by the Great Architect of the universe for the admiration of his wayward children.  Here in this region will also be found the California tamarack pine, and a variety of pine somewhat resembling the Norway pine, called Pinus Jeffreyi.  There is still another pine, to be found only on the highest ridges and mountains, that may be said to mark the limit of arbol vegetation; this dwarf is known as <HI REND="italics">pinus albicaulis</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Professor Whitney speaks of still another one of the pine family, growing about the head of King's and Kern Rivers, which he calls <HI REND="italics">pinus aristata</HI>
135.sgm:, and says it only grows on those highest peaks of the Sierras, although it is also found in the Rocky Mountains.  Of the more noticeable undergrowth of these mountain forests and their borders, besides grasses, sedges, ferns, mosses, lichens, and various plants that require a better knowledge of botany than I possess to describe properly, may be mentioned the California lilac and dogwood, the latter of which is frequently seen growing along the mountain streams, and in the Yosemite.  It grows in conjunction with alder, willow, poplar, or balm of Gilead, and a species of buckthorn.  In isolated patches the Indian arrow-wood is found.  This wood is almost without pith, and warps but little in drying.  For these qualities and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>It will have been observed, while going to the Yosemite, that the chimaso, white-oak and digger-pine are upon the southern slopes, while the thickets of mountain-ash, shrub or Oregon maple, and shrub live-oak, chinquepin and trailing blue and white ceanothus and snow plant are found upon the north side of the ridges, except when found at a greater altitude than is usual for their growth.  On descending into the Yosemite, the visitor will at once notice and welcome the variety of foliage.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Upon the highest lands grow pine, fir, cedar, spruce, oak and shrubs.  In the meadows and upon open ground, according to the richness of the soil and moisture, will be seen flowers and flowering shrubs of great brilliancy and variety.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The whole valley had the appearance of park-like grounds, with trees, shrubbery, flowers and lawns.  The larger trees, pines, firs, etc., are of smaller growth than are usually found on the mountain slopes and tables.  Still, some are of fair dimensions, rising probably to the height of one hundred and fifty feet or more.  One large pine, growing in an alcove upon the wall of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la,--apparently without soil--is quite remarkable.  The balm of gilead, alder, dogwood, willow and buck-thorn, lend an agreeable variety to the scenery along the river.  Their familiar appearance seem, like old friends, to welcome the eastern visitor to this strange and remarkable locality.  The black-oak is quite abundant in the valley and upon the slopes below.  It was the source of supply of acorns used by the Yosemites as food, and as an article of traffic with their less favored neighbors east of the Sierras.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Along the river banks and bordering the meadows are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The meadows of the valley are generally moist, and in the springtime boggy.  Later in the season they become firmer, and some parts of them where not in possession of sedges, afford an abundant growth of "wild Timothy;" blue joint, Canada red-top and clover.  In addition to these nutritious meadow-grasses, there is growing on the coarse granite, sandy land, a hard, tough wire bunch grass unfit for grazing except when quite young.  This grass is highly prized by the Indians for making baskets and small mats.  Its black seeds were pulverized and used as food, by being converted into mush, or sometimes it was mixed with acorn meal and was then made into a kind of gruel.  The common "brake" and many beautiful species of rock ferns and mosses are quite abundant in the shady parts of the valley, and in the can&tilde;ons, and more especially are they found growing within the influence of the cool, moist air near the falls.  Growing in the warm sunlight below El Capitan, may be seen plants common among the foot hills and slaty mountains.  Of these plants, the manzanita, the bahia confertiflora and the California poppy are the most conspicuous.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The climatic and geologic or local influences upon vegetation in this part of California, is so remarkable as to continually claim the notice of the tourist, and induce the study of the botanist.  So peculiar are the influences of elevation, moisture, temperature and soil, that if these be stated, the flora may be determined with almost unerring certainty, and <HI REND="italics">vice versa</HI>
135.sgm:, if the flora be designated, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Thus far in narrating the incidents connected with the discovery of the Yosemite, I have not been particularly definite in my descriptions of it.  Unconsciously I have allowed myself to assume the position, that this remarkable locality was familiarly known to every one.</P>
135.sgm:<P>From the discovery of the valley to the present day, the wonders of this region of sublimity, have been a source of inspiration to visitors, but none have been able to describe it to the satisfaction of those who followed after them.  The efforts that are still made to do so, are conclusive evidences that to the minds of visitors, their predecessors had failed to satisfactorily describe it to their comprehensions; and so it will probably continue, as long as time shall last, for where genius even, would be incompetent, egotism may still tread <HI REND="italics">unharmed</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Realizing this, and feeling my own utter inability to convey to another mind any just conception of the impressions received upon first beholding the valley, I yet feel that a few details and figures should be given with this volume.  Prof. J. D. Whitney in his "Yosemite Guide Book" says, in speaking of the history of the discovery and settlement of the Yosemite Valley: "The visit of the soldiers under Captain Boling led to no immediate results in this direction.  Some stories told by them on their return, found their way into the newspapers; but it was not until four years later that so far as can be ascertained, any persons visited the valley for the purpose of examining its wonders, or as regular pleasure travelers.  It is, indeed, surprising that soremarkable a locality should not sooner have become known; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>At the time of our discovery, and after the subsequent lengthy visit under Captain Boling, our descriptions of it were received with doubt by the newspaper world, and with comparative indifference by the excited and overwrought public of the golden era.  The press usually more than keeps pace with public opinion.  Although height and depth were invariably under-estimated by us, our statements were considered "too steep" even for the sensational correspondents, and were by them pronounced exaggerations.  These autocrats of public opinion took the liberty to dwarf our estimates to dimensions more readily swallowed by their patrons.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I have made many visits to the Yosemite since "our" long sojourn in it in 1851, and have since that time furnished many items for the press descriptive of that vicinity.  My recollections of some of these will be given in another chapter.  Although many years have rolled off the calendar of time since the occurrences related in these chapters, no material change has affected that locality.  Human agency can not alter the general appearance of these stupendous cliffs and waterfalls.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The picturesque wildness of the valley has since our first visits b visits been to a certain degree toned down by the <HI REND="italics">improvements</HI>
135.sgm: of civilization.  The regions among the foot-hills and mountains that serve as approaches to the valley, where we hunted for savages <HI REND="italics">to make peace with our National Government</HI>
135.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The "Mariposa Trail" first approached the verge of the cliffs forming the south side of the valley, near what is known as "Mount Beatitude," or, as the first full view above has been designated, "Inspiration Point"; which is about 3,000 feet above the level of the valley.  In a direct line from the commencement of the first descent, to where the trail reaches the valley, the distance is probably less than a mile, but by the trail, it is nearly four miles in a circuitous zigzag westerly course.  The vertical descent of the trail in that distance is 2,973 feet.<ANCHOR ID="n15-1">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1">A wagon road now enters upon a lower level.</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>I have adopted the statistics of measurements given by Prof. Whitney in his "Yosemite Guide Book" as my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Prof. Whitney in speaking of this object of grandeur and massivenes massiveness, says: "El Capitan is an immense block of granite, projecting squarely out into the valley, and presenting an almost vertical sharp edge, 3,300 feet in elevation.  The sides or walls of the mass are bare, smooth, and entirely destitute of vegetation.  It is almost impossible for the observer to comprehend the enormous dimensions of this rock, which in clear weather can be distinctly seen from the San Joaquin plains at a distance of fifty or sixty miles.  Nothing, however, so helps to a realization of the magnitude of these masses about the Yosemite as climbing around and among them.  Let the visitor begin to ascend the pile of <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
135.sgm: which lies at the base of El Capitan, and he will soon find his ideas enlarged on the point in question.  And yet these <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>"It is doubtful if any where in the world there is presented so squarely cut, so lofty and so imposing a face of rock."  The foregoing is the most concise and best description of El Capitan I have ever seen, and yet, it cannot impart the ecstacy of reverence for the sublime one feels in its presence.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Another peculiarity of El Capitan, is one that belongs to headlands that are designated points-no-point; that is the apparent difficulty of passing them.  While passing at a distance, the convenxity of the wall seems to remain immediately opposite the observer.</P>
135.sgm:<P>From the Mariposa trail as it descends, can be seen most of the prominent cliffs which form its massive side walls.  This trail reaches the bottom of the valley near its lower extremity.  Below this trail, it narrows to a rocky can&tilde;on, almost impassable except for the Merced river, which leaves the valley through this gorge.  I shall again refer to this can&tilde;on in another chapter.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The valley is about six miles long and from half a mile to over a mile in width at the head of the valley proper.  It is irregular in shape, but its general direction is nearly east towards its upper end.  Its outlines will be better understood from a view of the accompanying map, which has been mostly copied from that of the State Geological Survey--Prof. Whitney's.  The three can&tilde;ons which open into the valley at its upper end, are so intimately connected with it that a general description will include them all, particularly the parts of them in close proximity to the valley.  They will be specially described when reached.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The sides of the valley are walls of a grayish-white granite, which becomes a dazzling white in a clear sunlight.  This intensity of reflection is, however, toned to a great extent by the varying haze which permeates the upper atmosphere of the valley for most of the time.  This haze has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The walls on each side are in many places perpendicular, and are, from the level of the valley to the top of the cliffs, from 2,660 to 4,737 feet in height, or, as they are generally described, from half a mile to a mile in height.  Prof. Whitney, however, says: "The valley is sunk almost a mile in perpendicular depth below the general level of the adjacent region."  This is undoubtedly correct, for in his description, he says: "The Yosemite Valley is nearly in the center of the State, north and south, and just midway between the east and west bases of the Sierras; here a little over seventy miles wide."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Prof. Whitney's estimate of the depth of the valley must be literally correct, for the general slope of that region is toward the valley, except from the west, its lower end.</P>
135.sgm:<P>At the base of these cliffs is a comparatively small amount of <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
135.sgm:, consisting of broken rocks which have fallen from above.  A kind of soil has accumulated on this talus, which is generally covered with vegetation.  Trees of considerable size--oaks, pines, firs, cedars, maples, bay and dwarf oak, and lesser shrubs, are frequent.  Although this <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
135.sgm: is scarcely observed in a general view, its height above the bottom of the valley is in many places from three hundred to five hundred feet next to the cliff, from which it slopes some distance into the valley.  In a few places the bases of the cliffs appear as if exposed nearly to the level of the valley.  The valley proper is generally level through its entire length.  The actual slope given is "only thirty-five feet between the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:junctions of the Ten-ie-ya Fork and the Bridal Veil Creek with the main river, four miles and a half in a straight line."  The elevation of the valley above the sea level is 3,950 feet.  The Merced River, which is about seventy feet wide in an ordinary stage of water, courses down through the middle can&tilde;on, meanders through the valley, being restrained or confined to near the centre of it by the sloping talus at its sides--the sloping <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Although the soil is principally of a sandy character, the marshy land subject to overflow, and some of the dry bottom land, have a deep, rich alluvial soil.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The two beautiful little meadows in the lower section of the valley, afford forage for animals.  On the slope above, not far from the Pohono Falls, the Yosemities built their huts, as if unconscious of "The Spirit of the Evil Wind," near their habitations.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Not far from the foot of the descent of the Mariposa trail, the original trail branched; one trail continuing on up the south side of the valley, the other crossing the Merced toward El Capitan.  Another original trail came up on the north side from the gorge below.  A small foot-trail entered this from the northern summit of the Coultersville trail, but it was purposely left so obscure by the Indians, as to lead to the belief that it was impassable for horses.  This trail was modernized, and is now known as the "Coultersville Trail."  On angle of El Capitan is "Ribbon Falls."  The cliff over which the water pours is nearly 3,000 feet high, but the perpendicular height of the fall is but little over a thousand feet.  This fall is "a beauty" while it lasts, but it is as ephemeral as a spring shower, and this fact must have been known to the sponsors at the baptism.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Just above El Capitan are the Three Brothers, the highest peak of these rocks is 3,830 feet.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Next above these is the Yosemite Fall.  The verge of the cliff over which this fall begins its descent is 2,600 feet above the level of the valley.  Prof. Whitney in describing this fall, says: "The fall is not in one perpendicular sheet.  There is first a vertical descent of 1,500 feet, when the water strikes on what seems to be a projecting ledge; but which, in reality, is a shelf or recess, almost a third of a mile back from the front of the lower portion of the cliff.  From here the water finds its way, in a series of cascades, down a descent equal to 626 feet perpendicular, and then gives one final plunge of about 400 feet on to a low <HI REND="italics">talus</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The ravine called Indian Can&tilde;on is less than a mile above the Yosemite Fall; between the two, is the rocky peak called the "Lost Arrow," which, although not perpendicular, runs up boldly to a height of 3,030 feet above the level of the Merced.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The Indian name for the ravine called Indian Can&tilde;on was Lehamite, and the cliff extending into the valley from the East side of the Can&tilde;on is known as the "Arrow-wood Rocks."  This grand wall extends almost at a right angle towards the East, and continues up the Ten-ie-ya Can&tilde;on, forming the base of the North dome (To-co-ya) which rises to an elevation of 3,568 feet above the valley.</P>
135.sgm:<P>In the cliff which forms the base of this dome-shaped mass of rocks, are the "Royal Arches," an immense arched cavity evidently formed by portions of the cliff becoming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>On the opposite side of Ten-ie-ya Can&tilde;on is the Half Dome (Tis-sa-ack) the loftiest peak of the granite cliffs that form a part of the walls of the Yosemite Valley.  Its height above the valley is 4,737 feet.  On the side next to Ten-ie-ya Can&tilde;on this cliff is perpendicular for more than 1,500 feet from its summit, and then, the solid granite slopes at about an angle of 60 degrees to its base.  The top of this mass of rock has the appearance of having been at one time a dome-shaped peak, now however, but half remains, that portion split off has by some agency, been carried away.  At its Northerly base is Mirror Lake, and farther up the Can&tilde;on is Mr. Watkins, Cloud's Rest, a cascade, and Lake Ten-ie-ya.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This brief outline of description includes the principal points of interest on the north side of the valley.  From the lower part of the valley, the first prominent object reached on the south side, is the Bridal Veil Fall.  The water of the "Po-ho-no" here falls over a cliff from a perpendicular height of 630 feet, onto a sloping pile of <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
135.sgm:, about 300 feet above the level of the Merced, in reaching which it rushes down the slope among the rocks in cascades and branching outlets.  The total height of the cliff over which the water falls is about 900 feet.  The trees on the slop below conceal the lower part of the fall, so that at a distance it appears as if reaching to the bottom of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>In a distance of two miles, a descent from over 2,000 feet of perpendicular height is made.  This includes the Vernal and Nevada Falls.  The Vernal is about 350 feet high; the Nevada something over 600 feet.  The rapids between the falls have a descent of about 300 feet.  The Vernal and Nevada are about one mile apart.  On the north side of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>A Trip to Los Angelos--Interview with Col. McKee--A Night at Col. Fremont's Camp--Management of Cattle by the Colonel's Herdsmen--Back to Los Angelos--Specimen Bricks of the Angel City--An Addition to our Party--Mules Versus Bears--Don Vincente--A Silver Mine--Mosquitos--A Dry Bog--Return to Fresno--Muster out of Battalion--A Proposition.</P>
135.sgm:<P>ON arriving at head-quarters on the Fresno, with the remnant of the once numerous and defiant band of Yosemite Indians, whose thieving propensities and murderous attacks had made them a dread to miners and "ranche" men; we found a general feeling of confidence that the "Indian war" was ended.  The commissioners, with a special escort of U. S. soldiers which had accompanied them from San Francisco, had gone to King's River to treat with the bands collected for that purpose; and were then to visit the region farther South on their way to Los Angelos, where they expected to meet and co-operate with Gen. Bean, who was stationed with his volunteer force at the Cahon Pass.  Major Savage had learned from his Indians, who once more seemed to idolize him, that all the bands in the vicinity of the Kings and Kah-we-ah rivers, had "made peace," and that the commissioners had started for Te-jon Pass.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Considering the Indian outbreak as completely suppressed, the major at once reported the condition of affairs to the governor, and recommended that the "Mariposa Battalion" be mustered out and honorably discharged from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This trip was in no way objectionable to me, for I was desirous to visit that part of the country with a view of selecting a location, if I found my plans to be practicable.  Through the advice of Major Savage, I had in contemplationa design to establish a trading post in the vicinity of Te-hon Pass.  In this project, I was assured of the Major's friendship and co-operation as soon as the battalion was mustered out.  He designed to extend his trading operations, and thought that a post in the vicinity of the pass would control the trade destined to spring up on both sides of the mountains.  I was provided with recommendations to the commissioners, to use in case I desired a trader's permit on one of the reservations.  The commissioners were while <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I was aware, even at that early day, that the California Indians had become objects of speculation to the "rings" that scented them as legitimate prey.  The trip to the Te-jon Pass was made without incident or accident to delay our movements, but on our arrival it was found that the Commissioners had been gone several days, and were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:probably then in Los Angelos.  This we learned from an Indian styled by his " <HI REND="italics">christian name</HI>
135.sgm:<P>From "Senor Don Vincente" we obtained roasting ears of corn, melons, etc., which were an agreeable surprise.  While on the trip we had found game in abundance, and, surfeited with fresh meat, the vegetables seemed better than any we had ever before eaten.  Vincente's system of irrigation was very complete.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling was not anxious to follow the trail of the Commissioners beyond this camp.  I had already informed him of my desire to see the Commissioners and make some examination of that locality before our return.  He therefore decided to retrace his own steps, but to send me on as a special messenger to the Commissioners.</P>
135.sgm:<P>He instructed me to make all possible despatch to deliver his report and messages, but on my return trip I had liberty to make such delays as suited my convenience.  He also wished me to convey a verbal message from Major Savage to Colonel Fremont, to the effect that the Indians congregated at the Fresno were anxiously awaiting the arrival of some of his cattle.  Col. Fremont had already made a large contract for supplying them with beef, and was supposed to be in Los Angelos or vicinity, buying up animals for the agencies.  My arrangements for following the Commissioners were hardly commenced, before Col. William T. Henderson, and ranchman from near Quartzberg, rode up to our camp.  He was an acquaintance, and was on his way to Los Angelos with a King's River Indian guide.  I at once saddled my mule, and taking an extra animal furnished for the occasion, joined Henderson, making the trip a more agreeable and pleasant one than I had anticipated.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>Col. Henderson afterwards became famous, at least among his friends, as chief instrument under Captain Harry Love, of causing the death of "Joaquin Muriata" and "Three fingered Jack," and in capturing two or three of Muriata's band of robbers.  On entering the city of Los Angelos, I found Col. McKee at his hotel.  Neither Col. Barbour nor Col. Fremont were in the city.  Doctor Woozen-croft was in San Francisco.  I was cordially received and hospitably entertained by Col. McKee while I made my report, and answered his questions.  At his request, I stated a few facts relating to the Yosemite Valley, and he appeared an interested listener; but distinguishing a look of incredulity, when I gave him my estimates of heights, I made the interview as brief as possible.  Ascertaining that Col. Fremont was only a few miles from the city, I rode out to his camp, delivered my message, and gave him a general view of the situation in Mariposa county, where his famous estate is situated.  I staid over night with him and was hospitably provided for.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The Colonel's whole bearing was that of an accomplished man of the world, and I felt that I was in the presence of a gentleman of education and refinement.  During the morning I watched his vaqueros or herdsman training the cattle preparatory to starting north for their destination.  This breaking-in process was accomplished by driving them in a circle over the plain near the camp, and was done to familiarize them with each other, and with the commands of the herdsmen, before attempting to drive them from their native grazing grounds.</P>
135.sgm:<P>On my return to the city I again called on Colonel McKee to see if he had any return message to Major Savage.  On my first visit the subject of reservations was not presented.  Upon this occasion it was naturally brought up by an allusion to the Colonel's plan of " <HI REND="italics">christianizing the poor</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Indians</HI>
135.sgm:<P>During this conversation, I was informed that the Fresno, King's River and Te-jon Pass selections would be recommended, although it appeared that the latter was claimed as an old and long disputed Spanish grant.  On stating that I had had some idea of locating in the vicinity of the Te-jon Pass as soon as that selection was decided upon, I was advised by Colonel McKee to be in no haste to do so, but was assured of his good will in any application I might make after their policy was established; for, added the Colonel, "Major Savage has already spoken of you as an energetic and efficient person, and one calculated to materially aid us in future work with these Indians."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Let it suffice here to say, that I never made application for a permit as a licensed trader on any Indian reservation; and I am not yet aware that any of these reservations have afforded the Indians means of self-support.  I was somewhat familiar with the management of the Fresno agency, and do not hesitate to say that it was not wholly commendable.  I was not personally familiar with that of the Te-jon Pass agricultural management.  This was one of the most delightful regions of California; and the region covered by the Mexican or Spanish grant was, in my opinion, intrinsically more valuable than the whole of the celebrated Mariposa estate of Col. Fremont, which had "millions in it."  After a vast amount of money had been expended on this reservation by the general government, I believe it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>My recollections of the interviews with Colonel McKee, are of a most agreeable character.  The sincerity with which he advised me with regard to my individual affairs, and the correctness of his representations of the prospective condition of the Tejon Pass, if it should prove a valid Mexican grant, was serviceable to me, and subsequent events verified his judgment.  Colonel McKee was a high-minded christian gentleman, but really unsuited to deal with the political element then existing on the Pacific coast.  The other two commissioners, Colonel Barbour and Dr. Woozencroft, I never became acquainted with, though upon one occasion I met Colonel Barbour at head-quarters, and received a very favorable impression of his character.  In leaving Colonel McKee after my second interview,  I could not at once relinquish my design of ultimately establishing myself near the Tejon.  Having completed my business, I reported myself to Henderson as ready, and found that he also had been able to despatch his affairs, and had no business to detain him longer.  Together we took a stroll through the principal street, and visited some popular resorts.  However angelic the unseen portion of this city--of then less than two thousand inhabitants--may have been, it appeared to us as a city of fallen angels with their attendant satellites.  Although our observations were made in a dull portion of the day, we witnessed on the street one pugilistic encounter, two shooting affrays, and a reckless disregard of life, and property rights generally, never allowed in a civilized community.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The authorities seemed too indifferent or too timid to maintain order, or punish the offenders against law.  Satisfied that the "City of Angels" could exhibit more unadulterated wickedness than any other town in the State at that time, we shook the dust from our feet, and in order to get an early start the next morning, rode out to the vicinity of Col. Fremont's camp.  Our party was increased by the addition of two gentlemen, who joined us for protection and guidance.  The name of one of them has escaped my memory; the other was Doctor Bigelow, of Detroit, Michigan, a geologist, who at one time was engaged in a geological survey of a portion of Lake Superior.  We left our camp before sunrise, Henderson and myself riding in advance; our guests, Indian and pack-mule bringing up the rear.  This order of traveling was maintained as a matter of convenience, for being well mounted, Henderson and myself were able to secure deer, antelope and a supply of smaller game, without hardly leaving the trail or delaying our progress.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Among the foot-hills of the mountain slopes we saw several black bears cross the trail ahead, but not being out of meat, we did not urgently solicit their company.  We did, however, once have our appetite aroused for "bar meat," but failed to supply the material for the feast.  Halting for a rest at the foot of a ravine, and being very thirsty, we followed the indications to water exhibited by our mules.  These were secured while we explored the brushy ravine for the water-hole.  As we reached the desired water, two fat cubs came waddling out of the pool, and ran into a clump of dwarf willow.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Congratulating each other on the prospect of roast cub for supper, we tried to get a shot with our revolvers, but a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>As we approached near enough for the mules to see and scent the game, they halted, and commenced <HI REND="italics">marking time</HI>
135.sgm:.  Neither spurs or the butts of our rifles could persuade them to make a forward movement.  Thinking I might secure a cub that stood temporarily in sight, I raised my rifle, but in so doing slackened the reins, when with the ease and celerity of a well-drilled soldier, my mule came to an " <HI REND="italics">about face</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After a hearty laugh at our comic illustration of a bear hunt, it was mutually agreed that a mule was not reliable in a charge upon bruin.</P>
135.sgm:<P>A mule may be the equal of a horse in intelligence, but his inferiority of spirit and courage in times of danger prevents his becoming a favorite, except as a beast for work or mountain travel.</P>
135.sgm:<P>On arriving at the rancheria of the chief Vincente, I induced Henderson to stop and explore the country.  The luscious watermelons and abundant supplies of vegetables were strong arguments in favor of a few days' rest for our animals and recreation for ourselves.  In the meantime Doctor Bigelow had told us of a traditional silver mine that he had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>After paying him for the things liberally supplied our party, and which with a show of Spanish courtesy he intimated he had given us because he was "a good Christian"--though he frequently crossed himself while expressing his fear of "witches" or demons--I opened up the subject of the old silver mine.  I designated it as some kind of a mine that had once been worked by an Englishman.  We were told by "Don Vincente" that such a mine had been discovered many years before, by white men, who, after working it for awhile, had been driven off or killed; "but for the love of God" he could not tell which.  We expressed a wish to visit the old mine, and asked permission of the chief.  He told us it was not in the territory claimed by him, and he was thankful that it was not, as the location was haunted.  When asked if he would furnish us a guide, who should be well paid for his service, he answered, "Go, and God go with you, but none of my people shall go, for it would bring upon us evil."  We were shown the mouth of the ravine, after some persuasion, but no argument or inducement could procure a guide to the mine.</P>
135.sgm:<P>"Don Vincente," like all the Mission Indians of California, I found to be strongly imbued with the superstitions of the <HI REND="italics">wild tribes</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Leaving our extra animals in the care of Vincente, we took our course towards the mouth of the ravine pointed out to us, southwest of the Tejon.  After a tedious and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:difficult search, a discovery of some <HI REND="italics">float</HI>
135.sgm: mineral was made, and following up these indications, we found some very rude furnaces, and a long distance above discovered the mine, which had evidently been abandoned for years.  We procured some of the best <HI REND="italics">specimens</HI>
135.sgm:<P>On our return from the exploration of the " <HI REND="italics">Silver Mine</HI>
135.sgm:," we carefully concealed our discovery from Vincente and his people, and avoided exciting their curiosity.  Our animals were rested, and in an improved condition, for the grass was rich and abundant.  Don Vincente was as much delighted with our presents of tobacco and trinkets, which we had carried with us for such occasions, as any of the " <HI REND="italics">Gentile</HI>
135.sgm: " nations would have been.  We took our departure from the hospitalities of the Mission Chief without having had any occurrence to divert the mutually friendly feelings that had been fostered in our intercourse.  We had designed, on starting from the rancheria of Don Vincente, to leave the direct trail to Mariposa, and explore the lake region of the Tulare valley.  Unfortunately for the success of this undertaking, we made our first camp too near the marshy shore of Kern Lake.  We had selected the camp ground for the convenience of water and fresh grass for our animals, but as night closed in, the mosquitoes swarmed from the surrounding territory, making such vigorous charges upon us and our animals, that we were forced to retreat from their persistent attacks, and take refuge on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:high land away from the vicinity of the Tule or Bullrush marshes.  Having no desire to continue the acquaintance of the inhabitants who had thronged to welcome our approach, our ambition for making further exploration was so much weakened, that we silently permitted our mules to take their course towards the direct trail.  Col. Henderson declared that the mosquitoes on these lakes were larger, more numerous, and in greater variety, than in the swamps of Louisiana, and Doctor Bigelow said that hitherto he had rather prided himself, as a Michigander, on the <HI REND="italics">earnest</HI>
135.sgm: character of those of Michigan, but that in future, he should be willing to accept as a standard of all the possibilities of mosquito growth, those that had <HI REND="italics">reluctantly</HI>
135.sgm: parted with us at Kern Lake.  Keeping the rich alluvial low lands on our left, we crossed a strip of alkali plain, through which our animals floundered as if in an ash heap.  This Henderson designated as a " <HI REND="italics">dry bog</HI>
135.sgm:."  Deviating still farther to the right to avoid this, an old trail was struck, either Indian or animal, which led us into the main trail usually traveled up and down the valley.  At the crossing of one of the numerous mountain streams, we found a good camping place on a beautiful table overlooking this rich territory, where we would be secure from the assaults of <HI REND="italics">enemies</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After a refreshing bath in the cool waters of the stream, we slept the sleep of the blessed, and mosquitoes once more became to us unknown objects of torture.  The next morning we found ourselves refreshed and buoyant.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Our animals, like ourselves, seemed to feel in elevated spirits, and as we vaulted into our saddles at an early hour, they moved rapidly along in the cool and bracing air.  As we rode, drove after drove of antelope and elk were seen, and one small band of mustangs approached from the west, when, after vainly neighing to our mules, they turned and galloped back toward their favorite resort, the west side of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>We reached the Fresno in safety without interrupting incidents, and without further attempt at exploration.  Colonel Henderson, Doctor Bigelow, and his companion <HI REND="italics">du voyage</HI>
135.sgm:, after a short halt passed on to Quartzberg, while I stopped over to make my report to the Major.  To my extreme surprise, Major Savage questioned me as to the cause of my tardiness, saying he had been expecting me for two or three days past, and that the cattle were now within the valley and would in a short time be at the reservation.  After sufficiently enjoying my astonishment at his knowledge of my movements and those of Fremont's herders, he informed me that his old power and influence over the Indians had been re-established, and that reports came to him from the different chiefs of all important events transpiring in their territory.  He soon satisfied me that through a judicious distribution of presents to the runners, and the esteem in which he was held by the chiefs, he was able to watch the proceedings of strangers, for every movement of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The major gave me a general insight into his future plans, and some of the sources of his expected profits.  After this conversation, I gave up all idea of establishing at the Tejon or any where else as a government trader.  Having been so long absent from my private business, which I had left under the management of a partner; I made this a sufficient excuse for my departure the next morning and for my inability to accept the major's kindly offer.  As I was leaving, the major said: "I was in hopes to have secured your services, and still think you may change your mind.  If you do, ride over at once and you will find a place open for you.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This confidence and friendship I felt demanded some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:return, and I frankly said; "Major Savage, you are surrounded by combinations that I don't like.  Sharp men are endeavoring to use you as a tool to work their gold mine.  Beside this, you have hangers-on here that are capable of cutting your throat."  Contrary to my expectation the Major was not in the least offended at my frankness; on the contrary, he thanked me for my interest and said: "Doc, while you study books, I study men.  I am not often very much deceived, and I perfectly understand the present situation, but let those laugh who win.  If I can make good my losses <HI REND="italics">by</HI>
135.sgm: the Indians <HI REND="italics">out</HI>
135.sgm:<P>With many others, I had joined in the operations against the Indians from conscientious motives and in good faith to chastise them for the numerous murders and frequent robberies they were committing.  Our object was to compel them to keep the peace, that we might be permitted to live undisturbed by their depredations.  We had sufficient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Captain Boling elected Sheriff--Appointment of Indian Agents--Ten-ie-ya allowed to return to Yosemite--Murder of Visitors--Lt. Moore's Expedition and Punishment of Murderers--Gold Discoveries on Eastern Slope of Sierras--Report of Expedition, and first <HI REND="italics">Published</HI>
135.sgm:<P>AFTER being mustered out, the members of the battalion at once returned to their various avocations.  I was fully occupied with mining and trading operations, and hence gave little heed to affairs at the Fresno.  Through Captain Boling, however, who was elected Sheriff of the county, and whose business carried him to all parts of the country, I learned of the appointment of Col. Thomas Henly as agent for the tribes of Mariposa county, and as sub-agents M. B. Lewis for the Fresno and Wm. J. Campbell for the King's River Agencies.  I afterwards met Col. Henly and Mr. Lewis in Mariposa, and was much pleased with the Colonel.  Both of these gentlemen were kind and genial; but Mr. Lewis soon tired of his office as unsuited to his taste, and accepted a position in the State Government under Major Roman.  His successor, I believe, was Capt. Vincinthalor.  Old Ten-ie-ya, and his band, were never recipients of friendly favors from Savage, nor was he in very good standing with the agent.  This was known to the other chiefs, and they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>To rid itself of the consequences engendered by these petty squabbles with the old chief, the management at the Fresno consented to a short absence under restrictions.  Ten-ie-ya promised to perform all requirements, and joyfully left the hot and dry reservation, and with his family, took the trail to the Yosemite once more.  As far as is known, Ten-ie-ya kept faith and disturbed no one.  Soon after his departure, however, a few of his old followers quietly left the Fresno as was supposed to join him, but as no complaints were made by their chiefs, it was understood that they were glad to be rid of them; therefore no effort was made to bring them back.  During the winter of 1851-52 a considerable number of horses were stolen, but as some of them were found in the possession of Mexicans, who were promptly executed for the theft, no charge was preferred against the Yosemites.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Early in May, 1852, a small party of miners from Coarse Gold Gulch, started out on a prospecting tour with the intention of making a visit to the Yosemite Valley.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The curiosity of some of these men had been excited by descriptions of it, made by some of the ex-members of the Battalion who had gone to Coarse Gold Gulch, soon after their discharge.  This party spent some little time prospecting on their way.  Commencing on the south fork of the Merced, they tested the mineral resources of streams tributary to it; and then, passing over the divide on the old trail, camped for the purpose of testing the branches leading <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Having ascertained that they were a part of the Yosemite Band, the miners by signs, interrogated them as to the direction of the valley, but this they refused to answer or pretended not to understand.  The valley however, was known to be near, and no difficulty was anticipated, when the party were ready to visit it, as an outline map, furnished them before starting, had thus far proved reliable.  Unsuspicious of danger from an attack, they reached the valley, and while entering it on the old trail, were ambushed by the Indians from behind some rocks at or near the foot of the trail, and two of the party were instantly killed.  Another was seriously wounded, but finally succeeded in making his escape.  The names of the two men killed were Rose and Shurbon; the name of the wounded man was Tudor.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The reports of these murders, alarmed many of the citizens.  They were fearful that the Indians would become excited and leave the reservations, in which case, it was thought, a general outbreak would result.  The management of the Fresno agency was censured for allowing Ten-ie-ya to return to the valley, and for allowing so considerable a number of his followers to again assemble under his leadership.  Among the miners, this alarm was soon forgotten, for it was found that instead of leaving the reservations, the Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>When the captives were accused of the murder of the two white men, they did not deny the charge; but tacitly admitted that they had done it to prevent white men from coming to their valley.  They declared that it was their home, and that white men had no right to come there without their consent.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Lieutenant Moore told them, through his interpreter, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Lieutenant Moore became fully satisfied that he had captured the real murderers, and the abstract questions of title and jurisdiction, were not considered debatable in this case.  He promptly pronounced judgment, and sentenced them to be shot.  They were at once placed in line, and by his order, a volley of musketry from the soldiers announced that the spirits of five Indians were liberated to occupy ethereal space.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This may seem summary justice for a single individual, in a republic, to meet out to fellow beings on his own judgment; but a formal judicial killing of these Indians could not have awarded more summary justice.  This prompt disposition of the captured murderers, was witnessed by a scout sent out by Ten-ie-ya to watch the movements of Lieutenant Moore and his command, and was immediately reported to the old chief, who with his people at once made a precipitate retreat from their hiding places, and crossed the mountains to their allies, the Pai-utes and Monos.  Although this was in June, the snow, which was lighter than the year before at this time, was easily crossed by the Indians and their families.  After a short search, in the vicinity of the valley, Lieutenant Moore struck their trail at Lake Ten-ie-ya, and followed them in close pursuit, with an expressed determination to render as impartial justice to the whole band as he had to the five in the valley.  It was no disappointment to me to learn from Gray, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Lieutenant Moore did not discover the Soda Springs nor the Mono Lake country, but he brought into prominent notice the existence of the Yosemite, and of minerals in paying quantities upon the Eastern Slope.  Mr. Moore made a brief descriptive report of his expedition, that found its way into the newspapers.  At least, I was so informed at the time, though unable to procure it.  I saw, however, some severe criticisms of his display of autocratic power in ordering the five Yosemites shot.</P>
135.sgm:<P>After the establishment of the "Mariposa Chronicle" by W. T. Witachre and A. S. Gould, the first number of which was dated January 20, 1854.  Lieutenant Moore, to more fully justify himself or gratify public curiosity, published in the "Chronicle" a letter descriptive of the expedition and its results.  In this letter he dropped the terminal letter "y" in the name "Yosemity," as it had been written previously by myself and other members of the battalion, and substituted "e," as before stated.  As Lieutenant Moore's article attracted a great deal of public attention at that time, the name, with its present orthography, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>To Lieutenant Moore belongs the credit of being the first to attract the attention of the scientific and literary world, and "The Press" to the wonders of the Yosemite Valley.  His position as an officer of the regular army, established a reputation for his article, that could not be expected by other correspondents.  I was shown by Gray who was exhibiting them in Mariposa, some very good specimens of gold quartz, that were found on the Moore expedition.  Leroy Vining, and a few chosen companions, with one of Moore's scouts as guide, went over the Sierras to the place where the gold had been found, and established themselves on what has since been known as Vining's Gulch or Creek.</P>
135.sgm:<P>On the return of Lieutenant Moore to Fort Miller, the news of his capture of the Indians, and his prompt execution of them as the murderers of Rose and Shurbon, occasioned some alarm among the timid, which was encouraged and kept alive by unprincipled and designing politicians.  All kinds of vague rumors were put in circulation.  Many not in the secret supposed another Indian war would be inaugurated.  Political factions and "Indian Rings" encouraged a belief in the most improbable rumors, hoping thereby to influence Congressional action, or operate upon the War Department to make large estimates for the California Indian Service.</P>
135.sgm:<P>This excitement did not extend beyond the locality of its origin, and the citizens were undisturbed in their industries by these rumors.  During all this time no indications of hostilities were exhibited by any of the tribes or bands, although the abusive treatment they received at the hands of some, was enough to provoke contention.  They quietly remained on the reservations.  As far as I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:able to learn at the time, a few persons envied them the possession of their King's river reservation, and determined to " <HI REND="italics">squat</HI>
135.sgm:<P>These agitations and murders were denounced by Major Savage in unsparing terms, and he claimed that Harvey was responsible for them.  Although the citizens of Mariposa were at the time unable to learn the details of the affair at King's river, which was a distant settlement, the great mass of the people were satisfied that wrong had been done to the Indians.  There had been a very decided opposition by the citizens generally to the establishment of two agencies in the county, and the selection of the best agricultural lands for reservations.  Mariposa then included nearly the whole San Joaquin valley south of the Tuolumne.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The opponents to the recommendations of the commissioners claimed that "The government of the United States has no right to select the territory of a sovereign State to establish reservations for the Indians, nor for any other purpose, without the consent of the State."  The State Legislature of 1851-52, instructed the Senators and Representatives in Congress to use their influence to have the Indians removed beyond the limits of the State.  These views had been advocated by many of the citizens of Mariposa county <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>It soon became quite evident, that an effort was being made to influence public opinion, and create an impression that there was imminent danger; in order that the general government would thereby be more readily induced to continue large appropriations to keep in subjection the comparatively few savages in the country.</P>
135.sgm:<P>It was a well known fact that these people preferred horse-flesh and their acorn jelly to the rations of beef that were supposed to have been issued by the Government.  During this time, Major Savage was successfully pursuing his trade with the miners of the Fresno and surrounding territory, and with the Indians at the agency.  Frequently those from the King's River Agency, would come to Savage to trade, thereby exciting the jealous ire of the King's river traders.  Self-interest as well as public good prompted Savage to use every means at his disposal to keep these people quiet, and he denounced Harvey and his associates as entitled to punishment under the laws of the Government.  These denunciations, of course, reached Harvey and his friends.  Harvey and a sub-agent by the name of Campbell, seemed most aggrieved at what Savage had said of the affray, and both appeared to make common cause in denouncing the Major in return.  Harvey made accusations against the integrity of Savage, and boasted that Savage would not dare visit King's river while he, Harvey, was there.  As soon as this reached the Major's ears, he mounted his horse and at once started for the King's River Agency.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Here, as expected, Harvey was found, in good fellowship <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This was in August, 1852.  Harvey was arrested, or gave himself up, and after the farce of an examination, was discharged.  The justice, before whom Harvey was examined, was a personal friend of the murderer, but had previously fed upon the bounty of Savage.  Afterwards, he commenced a series of newspaper articles, assailing the Indian management of California, and these articles culminated in his receiving congenial employment at one of the agencies.  Harvey, having killed his man, was now well calculated for a successful California politician of that period, and was triumphantly elected to office; but the ghost of Major Savage seemed to have haunted him, for ever after, he was nervous and irritable, and finally died of paralysis.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I was in San Francisco at the time of these troubles at the agencies; but upon my return, obtained the main facts as here stated, from one of the actors in the tragedy.</P>
135.sgm:<P>About this time, the management of California Indian affairs, became an important stake in the political circles of Mariposa.  I took but little interest in the factions that were assaulting each other with charges of corruption.  Notwithstanding my lack of personal interest, I was startled from my indifference by the report of the Superintendent dated February, 1853.  His sweeping denunciations of the people of Mariposa county was a matter of surprise, as I knew it to be unjust.  This report was considered in a general mass meeting of the best citizens of the county, and was very properly condemned as untrue.  Among those who took an active part in this meeting were Sam Bell (once State Comptroller), Judge Bondurant, Senator James Wade, and other members of the State Legislature, and many influential citizens, who generally took but a minor interest in political affairs.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The records of the meeting, and the resolutions condemning the statements of the Superintendent of Indian Affairs, which were unanimously adopted, and were published in the "Mariposa Chronicle" after its establishment, I have preserved as a record of the times.  The meeting expressed the general sentiment of the people, but it accomplished nothing in opposition to the Superintendent's policy, for the people soon discovered that the great " <HI REND="italics">Agitator</HI>
135.sgm: " at these meetings was a would-be rival of the Superintendent.  We therefore bowed our heads and thought of the fox in the fable.  I never chanced to meet the gentleman who was at that time Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:nothing of him personally, but upon reading an official letter of his dated at Los Angeles, August 22nd, 1853, in which he speaks of "The establishment of an entire new system of government, which is to change the character and habits of a hundred thousand persons."  And another letter dated San Francisco, September 30th, 1853, saying that his farm agent, Mr. Edwards, "Had with great tact and with the assistance of Mr. Alexander Gody, by traveling from tribe to tribe, and talking constantly with them, succeeded in preventing any outbreak or disturbance in the San Joaquin Valley."  I came to the conclusion that the Superintendent of Indian Affairs was under astute management, or that he was one of the <HI REND="italics">shrewdest</HI>
135.sgm: of the many <HI REND="italics">shrewd operators</HI>
135.sgm: on the Pacific Coast.  The schemes of the <HI REND="italics">Indian Ring</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The estimates made by him in his letters and report, were on an assumed probability of a renewal of Indian hostilities.  It was true, murders were occasionally committed by them, but they were few as compared with those committed by the Mexicans and Americans among themselves.  The estimate of a hundred thousand Indians in California, was known by every intelligent man who had given the subject any attention, to be fabulous.  There was probably not a fifth of the number.  But that was of no consequence, as the schemes of the "Ring" were successful.  Large appropriations were made by Congress in accordance with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:stipulations of the treaty made between these ignorant tribes, and the Republic of the United States of America.  The recommendations were generally carried out <HI REND="italics">in Washington</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The making of a treaty of peace with Indian tribes, may be correctly defined as procuring a release of all claims of certain territory occupied by them.  Congress may make appropriations to provide for the promises made, but it is a well known fact that these appropriations are largely absorbed by the agents of the government, without the provisions being fulfilled.  The defrauded victims of the <HI REND="italics">treaty</HI>
135.sgm:<P>An inherited possessive right of the Indians to certain territory required for their use, is acknowledged, and should be, by the Government, but to recognize this as a tribal or national right, is but to continue and foster their instinctive opposition to our Government, by concentrating and inflaming their native pride and arrogance.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The individual, and his responsibilities, become lost in that of his tribe, and until that power is broken, and the individual is made to assume the responsibilities of a man, there will be but little hope of improvement.  The individual is now scarcely recognized by the people (except he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:be representative); he is but an integral number of a tribe.  He has a nationality without a country, and feels that his people have no certain home.  He knows that he has been pauperized by contact with the whites and the policy pursued by the Government towards him, and he scorns while he accepts its bounty.  These native-born residents of our common country, are not citizens; their inherent rights are not sufficiently protected, and, feeling this, they in turn, disregard the law or set it at defiance.  The best part of my life has been spent upon the frontiers of civilization, where ample opportunities have been afforded me to observe our national injustice in assuming the guardianship and management of the Indian, without fulfilling the treaty stipulations that afford him the necessary protection.  The policy of the Government has seemed to be to keep them under restraint as animals, rather than of protective improvement as rational human beings.  What matters it, though the National Government, by solemn treaty, pledges its faith to their improvement, if its agents do not fulfill its obligations.  I am no blind worshipper of the romantic Indian, nor admirer of the real one; but his degraded condition of pauperism, resulting from the mismanagement of our Indian affairs, has often aroused in me an earnest sympathy for the race.  They are not deficient in brain-power, and they should rise from degradation and want, if properly managed.  I am not classed as a radical reformer, but I would like to see a <HI REND="italics">radical</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I would like to see the experiment tried by the Government and its agents of dealing justly with them, and strictly upon honor.  I would like to see those who have the management of Indian affairs selected because of their fitness for their positions, without making political or religious considerations pre-requisite qualifications.  Morality and strict integrity of character, should be indispensable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:requirements for official positions; but a division of patronage, or of Indian <HI REND="italics">souls</HI>
135.sgm: among the various religious sects or churches, is contrary to the spirit, if not the letter, of our Federal Constitution, and the strife this policy has already engendered among the various sects, is not calculated to impress even the savage with a very high estimate of Christian forbearance and virtue.  The cardinal principles of Christianity should be taught the children by <HI REND="italics">example</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The question of a transfer of the Indian Bureau to the War Department, has been for some time agitated, but it seems to me that some facts bearing on the subject have not been sufficiently discussed or understood.  These are that the various tribes are warlike in their habits and character, and have been engaged in wars of conquest among themselves ever since they first became known to the white settlers of the country.  Their <HI REND="italics">immediate</HI>
135.sgm: right to the territory they now occupy is derived from the dispossession of some other tribe.  They recognize the <HI REND="italics">lex talionis</HI>
135.sgm: as supreme, and their obedience to law and order among themselves is only in proportion to their respect for the chief, or power that controls them.  Hence, for the Sioux and other unsubdued tribes, military control, in my opinion, would be best suited to their war-like natures and roving habits.  The objection that their management by the War Department had proved a failure, is not a valid one, as when formerly the Bureau was under its nominal control, all appointments of agents were made from civil life, as political rewards from those in power.  The political kites, scenting the fat things hidden away in the office of an agent, pounced down upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The duties of the office are anything but agreeable to an officer who has been educated for the profession of a solider.  Few are disposed to do the incessant drudgery required of an effective agent.  As a rule, the permanency of office, the education and <HI REND="italics">amour propre</HI>
135.sgm: of military life, raises the army officer above the temptations of the ordinary politician; therefore, the <HI REND="italics">chances</HI>
135.sgm:<P>As the wild tribes recognize no authority but that of the <HI REND="italics">lex-taliones</HI>
135.sgm:; by this law they should be governed.  <HI REND="italics">Any attempt to govern or civilize them without the power to compel obedience, will be looked upon by barbarians with derision</HI>
135.sgm:, and all idea of Christianizing <HI REND="italics">adult</HI>
135.sgm: Indians, while they realize the injustice done them by the whites, will prove impracticable.  The children may be brought under some moderate system of compulsory education and labor, but the adults never can be.  <HI REND="italics">Moral suasion</HI>
135.sgm: is not comprehended as a <HI REND="italics">power</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The savage is naturally vain, cruel and arrogant.  He boasts of his murders and robberies, and the tortures of his victims very much in the same manner that he recounts his deeds of valor in battle, his prowess in killing the grizzly, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:and his skill in entrapping the beaver.  His treachery, is to him but cunning, his revenge a holy obligation, and his religion but a superstitious fear.  The Indians that have resorted to labor as a means of future support, should be encouraged and continued under the care of civilians.  Their religious instruction, like that of the whites, may safely be left to their own choice; but for the <HI REND="italics">wild</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The war between different tribes is a natural result of their efforts to maintain <HI REND="italics">independent</HI>
135.sgm: sovereignties.  The motives that influence them are not very unlike those that operate upon the most highly favored <HI REND="italics">Christian nations</HI>
135.sgm:, except that religion, as a rule, has but little to answer for, as they are mostly of one religious faith.  All believe in the influence of and communion with departed spirits.  The limited support afforded by the game of a given territory, frequently compels encroachments that result in war.  Ambition for fame and leadership prompts young aspirants for the honors awarded to successful warriors, and they bear an initiatory torture in order to prove their fortitude and bravery, that would almost seem beyond human endurance.  After a reputation has been acquired as a successful leader, old feuds must be maintained and new wars originated to gratify and employ ambitious followers, or the glory and influence of the successful chieftain will soon depart or be given to some new aspirant for the leadership of the tribe.  In their warlike movements, as in all their private affairs, their "medicine men" are important personages.  They are supposed to have power to propitiate evil spirits or exercise them.  They assume the duties of physicians, orators and advisers in their councils, and perform the official duties of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>They are consulted upon all important occasions, let it be of war, of the chase, plunder or of marriage.  They provide charms and amulets to protect the wearer from the evil influence of adverse spirits and the weapons of war, and receive for these mighty favors donations corresponding to the support afforded Christian priests and ministers.  The sanctification of these relics is performed by an elaborate mysterious ceremony, the climax of which is performed in secret by the priestly magnate.  The older the relic, the more sacred it becomes as an heirloom.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Marriage among the Indians is regarded from a business standpoint.  The preliminaries are usually arranged with the parents, guardians and friends, by the patriarch of the family, or the chief of the tribe.  When an offer of marriage is made, the priest is consulted, he generally designates the price to be paid for the <HI REND="italics">bride</HI>
135.sgm:.  The squaws of these mountain tribes are not generally voluptuous or ardent, and notwithstanding their low and degraded condition, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Their government being largely patriarchal, the women are subjects of the will of the patriarch in all domestic relations.  The result is, that they have become passively submissive creatures of men's will.  Believing this to be the natural sphere of their existence, they hold in contempt one who performs menial labor, which they have been taught belongs to their sex alone.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The habits of these mountain tribes being simple; their animal passions not being stimulated by the condiments and artificial habits of civilized life; they, in their native condition, closely resembled the higher order of animals in pairing for offspring.  The spring time is their season of love.  When the young clover blooms and the wild anise throws its fragrance upon mountain and dell, then, in the seclusion of the forest are formed those unions which among the civilized races are sanctioned by the church and by the laws of the country.</P>
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135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LAKE STAR KING.</P>
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135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291a</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Murder of Starkey--Death of Ten-ie-ya and Extinction of his Band--A few Surviving Murderers--An Attempt at Reformation--A Failure and loss of a Mule--Murders of Robert D. Sevil and Robert Smith--Alarm of the People--A False Alarm.</P>
135.sgm:<P>DURING the winter of 1852-3, Jesse Starkey and Mr. Johnson, comrades of the Mariposa battalion and expert hunters, were engaged in supplying miners along the Mariposa Creek with venison and bear meat.  They were encamped on the head waters of the Chow-chilla and fearing no danger, slept soundly in their encampment.  They had met Indians from time to time, who seemed friendly enough, and even the few escaped Yosemites who recognized Starkey, showed no sign of dislike; and hence no proper precautions were taken against their treachery.</P>
135.sgm:<P>A few days only had passed in the occupation of hunting, when a night attack was made upon the hunters.  Starkey was instantly killed, but Johnson, though wounded, escaped to Mariposa on one of their mules.</P>
135.sgm:<P>James M. Roan, Deputy Sheriff under Captain Boling, took direction of the wounded man, and with a posse of but 15 miners, went out to the Chow-chilla, where they found the naked and mutilated remains of poor Starkey, which they buried uncoffined at the camp.</P>
135.sgm:<P>After that sad duty was accomplished, the little party of brave men pursued the trail of the savages into the Snowy Mountains, where they were overtaken and given merited chastisement.  Three Indians fell dead at the first fire, while others were wounded and died afterwards.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>No united effort was made to repel the whites, and panic-stricken, the renegade robbers fled into their hidden recesses.  Cossom, an Indian implicated, confessed, long afterwards, that their loss in the attack was at least a dozen killed and wounded, and that the robber murderers of Starkey were renegade Yosemite and other Indians who had refused to live at the reservation.  It was several months after Mr. Roan's encounter with those Indians before I learned the full particulars, and when any of the remnants of the band of Yosemites appealed to me for aid, I still gave them relief.</P>
135.sgm:<P>DURING the summer of 1853, Mr. E. G. Barton and myself were engaged in trading and mining on the Merced.  We had established a station on the north side of the river, several miles above the mouth of the North Fork.  We here had the patronage of the miners on the river and its branches above, as well as in our own vicinity, and from the North Fork.  From some of the miners who visited our store from the vicinity of the South Fork, I learned that a short time before, a small party of the Yosemities had come to their diggings and asked for food and protection from their enemies, who, they said, had killed their chief and most of their people, and were pursuing themselves.  The affrighted and wounded wretches reported to them that they had been attacked while in their houses by a large party of Monos from the other side of the mountains, and that all of their band had been killed except those who had asked protection.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The miners had allowed the Indians to camp near by, but refused to give them any but a temporary supply of food.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Knowing that I was familiar with the Valley, and acquainted with the band, they asked my advice as to what they ought to do with their neighbors.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Feeling some sympathy for the people who had made their homes in the Yosemite, and thinking that I might aid and induce them to work as miners, I sent them word to come down to our store, as there were plenty of fish and acorns near by.  A few came, when I told them that if in future they were <HI REND="italics">good Indians</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I furnished them some tools to prospect, and they came back sanguine of success.  A Tu-ol-um-ne Indian named "Joe," and two or three families of Yosemities came down and camped on Bull Creek and commenced to gather acorns, while "Joe" as head miner, worked with the others in the gulches and on the North Fork.  This experiment of working and reforming robbers soon proved a failure, for upon the death of one of them who had been injured, they could not be induced to remain or work any longer, and "Joe," and his new followers stampeded for the Hetch-Hetchy Valley.</P>
135.sgm:<P>From these Indians, and subsequently from others, I learned the following statements relative to the death of Old Ten-ie-ya.  After the murder of the French miners from Coarse Gold Gulch, and his escape from Lieut. Moore, Ten-ie-ya, with the larger part of his band, fled to the east side of the Sierras.  He and his people were kindly received by the Monos and secreted until Moore left that locality and returned to Fort Miller.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Ten-ie-ya was recognized, by the Mono tribe, as one of their number, as he was born and lived among them until his ambition made him a leader and founder of the Pai-Ute colony in Ah-wah-ne.  His history and warlike exploits formed a part of the traditionary lore of the Monos.  They were proud of his successes and boasted of his descent from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>According to custom with these mountaineers, a portion of territory was given to them for their occupancy by consent of the tribe; for individual right to territory is not claimed, nor would it be tolerated.  Ten-ie-ya staid with the Monos until late in the summer or early autumn of 1853, when he and his people suddenly left the locality that had been assigned to them, and returned to their haunts in the Yosemite valley, with the intention of remaining there unless again driven out by the whites.  Permanent wig-wams were constructed by the squaws, near the head of the valley, among the rocks, not readily discernable to visitors.  Not long after Ten-ie-ya had re-established himself in his old home, a party of his young men left on a secret foraging expedition for the camp of the Monos, which was then established at or near Mono Lake.  According to the statement made to me, there had just been a successful raid and capture of horses by the Monos and Pai-Utes from some of the Southern California ranchos, and Ten-ie-ya's men concluded, rather than risk a raid on the white men, to steal from the Mono's, trusting to their cunning to escape detection.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Ten-ie-ya's party succeeded in <HI REND="italics">recapturing</HI>
135.sgm:<P>After a few days' delay, and thinking themselves secure, they killed one or more of the horses, and were in the enjoyment of a grand feast in honor of their return, when the Mono's pounced down upon them.  Their gluttony seemed to have rendered them oblivious of all danger to themselves, and of the ingratitude by which the feast had been supplied.  Like sloths, they appear to have been asleep after having surfeited their appetites.  They were surprised in their wig-wams by the wronged and vengeful Monos and before they could rally for the fight, the treacherous old chief was struck down by the hand of a powerful young Mono chief.  Ten-ie-ya had been the principal object of attack at the commencement of the assault, but he had held the others at bay until discovered by the young chief, who having exhausted his supply of arrows, seized a fragment of rock and hurled it with such force as to crush the skull of "the old grizzly."  As Ten-ie-ya fell, other stones were cast upon him by the attacking party, after the Pai-ute custom, until he was literally stoned to death.  All but eight of Ten-ie-ya's young braves were killed; these escaped down the valley, and through the can&tilde;on below.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The old men and women, who survived the first assault, were permitted to escape from the valley.  The young women and children were made captives and taken across the mountains to be held as slaves or drudges to their captors.  I frequently entertained the visitors at our store on the Merced with descriptions of the valley.  The curiosity of some of the miners was excited, and they proposed to make a visit as soon as it could be made with safety.  I expressed the opinion that there would be but little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Three of these miners, from the North Fork of the Merced, visited the valley soon after this interview.  These men were from Michigan.  Their glowing descriptions on their return, induced five others from the North Fork to visit it also.  On their return trip they missed the trail that would have taken them over the ridge to their own camp and kept on down to the path which led to our establishment.  While partaking of our hospitalities, they discussed the incidents of their excursion, and I was soon convinced that they had been to the Yosemite.  They spoke of the <HI REND="italics">lower</HI>
135.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">high</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I learned soon after, from some miners from the mouth of the "South Fork," that all of the Yosemites who had camped on the flats below the can&tilde;on, had left suddenly for the Tuolumne.  These two parties were the first white men that visited the Yosemite Valley after the visit of Lieut. Moore, the year before (1852).  The names of these miners have now passed from my memory, but I afterwards met one of these gentlemen at Mr. George W. Coulter's Hotel, in Coultersville, and another at Big Oak Flat, and both seemed well known to Lovely Rogers and other old residents.  I was shown, by the first party, some good specimens of gold quartz that had been found on the north side of the Merced below the can&tilde;on.  Late in the fall of this year (1853), three of the remnant of Ten-ie-ya's band came to our store.  They did not offer to trade, and when questioned, told me that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>After the close of the mining season in the fall of 1853, we left our trading establishment and mining works in charge of two men in our employ, Robt. D. Sevil, of Smyrna, Delaware, and Robt. Smith, a Dane.  The establishment was visited from time to time, by either Barton or myself during the winter of 1853-54, when upon one occasional visit, it was found by Mr. Barton to have been plundered.  With Nat. Harbert, a brave Texan, I at once started for the establishment, only to find it a scene of desolation.  I was informed by some miners who had been out prospecting, that the body of Smith had been found on a slaty point in the river below, but that nothing could be discovered of Sevil, or the murderers.  We found the tracks of Indians and traced them to the mountains, but failed to find their hiding places.  We lost their trail over the bare, slaty ground above the river.  The tracks had indicated to us that Indians were the murderers, before we had learned from the miners the circumstances connected with the finding of Smith's body.  It had been pierced by nine arrows, five of which were still found quivering in his flesh.  Upon the discovery of the body by the miners, a burial party was led by Doctor Porter, from the North Fork, to the scene of the murders; and with the assistance of his associates, Mr. Long, and others, it was given proper burial.  The body of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Harbert and myself concluded to make a thorough exploration for the murderers, and with this object in view, rode to Marble Springs, and commenced our search along the Tuolumne divide, hoping to find some place where the tracks would be found once more concentrated.  After a tiresome search, without success or encouragement, we went down to the camp of the miners, on the North Fork, to consult with them.  We found old acquaintances among these gentlemen, and Dr. Porter and Mr. Long were especially hospitable.  It was the opinion of these intelligent gentlemen, that the murderers had gone to the Upper Tuolumne river and were banded with the renegades of the Tuolumne tribe that had once been under Ten-ie-ya.  They expressed the belief that not less than twenty men should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:undertake an expedition against them.  As the principal articles stolen from our store were clothing and blankets, it was supposed the murderers would probably be found near some of the acorn <HI REND="italics">caches</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Feeling it would be useless to attempt anything further without an authorized expedition, we left the North Fork and our hospitable friends, and at once returned to Mariposa, where I reported to Sheriff Boling and Judge Bondurant the result of our trip.  These officials decided that the territory which it would be necessary to explore, was not within their jurisdiction.  That they had no authority to declare war against the Tuolumne Indians, but said that they would report the circumstances of the murders and robberies to the military authorities, to the Governor, and to the officials of Tuolumne county.  Here the matter rested, and nothing more was ever done by public authority.  I was afterwards advised to put in a claim on the two hundred and fifty thousand dollars voted by Congress for the Indians of California; but after some consideration of this advice, my conclusion was that the original claimants to this money would scarcely be willing to make any division of their legitimate spoils.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Although no action had been taken by the authorities, the murders of Sevil and Smith soon became generally known, and the inhabitants of Mariposa became alarmed from the rumors in circulation, of another general out-break.  I visited the Fresno Agency and found that the Indians there had heard of the raid on our establishment, and, on interrogating them, they expressed the opinion that the Yosemites were the ones who had murdered the men.  Their theory of the attack was, that they had first killed the men for the sake of the clothing on their persons, and afterwards had robbed the store of the clothing and blankets, because they were cold in their mountain retreat, and yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:dared not live among other people.  Some of these, at the Fresno, said that if the whites would fit out an expedition, they would go and help <HI REND="italics">kill</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I was convinced by my visit to the agency, that there was no grounds for fear of another outbreak among the Indians.  I traveled about as I had usually done before.  I was cautious in out-of-the-way places, but I cannot say that I hesitated at any time to prospect.  When I heard people express an opinion that it would be dangerous to enter the Yosemite Valley without a strong escort, I refrained from expressing my convictions.  I felt unwilling to publicly oppose the opinions of some of my late comrades, more especially after my recent experience with the Yosemites.  During the summer of 1854 no visits were made to the valley, as far as I know, and if there had been, I was so situated as likely to have been acquainted with the fact.  Many of my old companions in the battalion, never shared my admiration for the Yosemite.  Their descriptions were so common-place as to lead the people of the village of Mariposa to suppose that, as a curiosity, the scenery would scarcely repay the risk and labor of a visit.  The murders of Smith and Sevil deterred some who had designed to visit the valley that season.  The nervous ones were still further alarmed by a general stampede of the miners on the South Fork of the Merced, which occurred in the summer of that year (1854).  This was caused by a visit to their neighborhood of some Pai-Utes and Monos, from the east side of the Sierras, who came to examine the prospects for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:acorn harvest, and probably take back with them some they had <HI REND="italics">cached</HI>
135.sgm:<P>This visit of strange Indians to some of the miners' camps, was not at first understood and a wild alarm was raised without a comprehension of the facts of the case.  Captain Boling, as sheriff, summoned to his aid a number of the old members of his company.  I was one of the number.  We made a night ride to the place of alarm, and on arriving, found that we had been sold.  We felt chagrined, although it was gratifying to learn that alarm had been made without a cause.  An old '49er, that we found, apologized for the verdants.  He said: "Probably, as long as men continue about as they now are, we must expect to find fools in all communities; but, if a premium for d-- fools should be offered by any responsible party, you will see a bigger stampede from these diggings than these Indians have made."  The whiskey was ordered for the old stager, and the apology considered as acceptable.  We returned to Mariposa wiser, if not <HI REND="italics">better</HI>
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135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Engineering and History--Speculation and Discouragement--A New Deal--Wall Street--A Primitive Bridge--First Woman in the Yosemite--Lady Visitors from Mariposa and Lady Teachers from San Francisco--Measurements of Heights--First Houses, and their Occupants--A Gay Party and a Glorious Feast.</P>
135.sgm:<P>ALTHOUGH no visits were made during the year 1854 to the Yosemite Valley, it was at this time that the existence of such a locality began to be generally known outside of the limits of Mariposa county.  Many of the inhabitants of that county, however, were still incredulous of its being any more remarkable than some other localities among the Sierras.  As a matter of early history, I will give a few details of occurrences indirectly connected with the bringing of this valley to the attention of the public as a wonderful natural curiosity.</P>
135.sgm:<P>During the year 1854 an effort was made by a party of engineers from Tuolumne county, to explore a route by which water could be brought from the South Fork of the Merced river into the "dry diggings."  After a reconnoissance, the route was pronounced too expensive to be profitable, as the supply of water would be insufficient, unless the ditch should be extended to the main river, which was not considered practicable.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding this adverse report, the Mariposa "Chronicle" continued to advocate the practicability of the proposed plan, and made some effort to induce capitalists to take an interest in the enterprise, claiming that like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Not feeling satisfied with this decision, Mr. Reynolds and myself, mutually agreed to complete the survey.  Reynolds was a man of energy and indomitable perseverance.  He was the first to establish an express to the Southern mines, and afterwards was for fourteen years successively elected to responsible offices in Mariposa county.  I handled the instrument, and Mr. Reynolds acted as rodman.  We continued the line up, passed all real obstacles, and then Captain Kiel, who was quite an old gentleman, completed the survey and mapped ou&die;t the route.  During this survey, Mr. Reynolds and myself crossed the South Fork and explored along the divide.  We were within six or seven miles of the Yosemite, but did not go to it.  <HI REND="italics">This was the only year since its discovery, that it was not visited by white men</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The next season, 1855, the survey began by Caruthers, Reynolds and myself, was pushed with vigor, and although the subject matter of extending the ditch to the main <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:stream was freely discussed and advocated by the <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Lt. Moore made no measurements, nor attempted to give any specific descriptions.  He only stated unadorned facts and practical impressions.  These, however, had in 1854 gone out into the world, and the wonders of the place were more generally known and appreciated by the literary and scientific, than by those in its more immediate vicinity.  During the summer of 1855, Mr. J. M. Hutchings, editor and publisher of "Hutchings' California Magazine," conceived the idea of visiting the Calaveras "Big Trees" and the Yosemite Valley.  As a literary man he was aware that these objects of wonder and curiosity would provide many interesting articles for his periodical.  He engaged the services of a well-known artist of San Francisco, Mr. Thomas Ayres, to provide sketches for his descriptive articles.  He first visited "The Big Trees" of Calaveras; at Coultersville and Horse Shoe Bend, Mr. Alex. Stair and Wesley Millard joined his party.  Mr. Hutchings' announcement at Mariposa that he was on his way to visit " <HI REND="italics">their wonderful valley</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>In anticipation of meeting with numerous difficulties on the way, or for other reasons, he hired two guides and started for the valley.  The difficulties of the journey vanished as he approached.  The excitement of the trip made the party forgetful of the fatigue and roughness of the mountain journey.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I met Stair and Millard, --who were especial friends of mine, --not long after their return from this trip.  They were very enthusiastic on the subject of the Yosemite.  The enthusiastic descriptions given by the Hutchings party, on its return, aroused the curiosity of the people, staggered the skeptics, and silenced the croakers.  Not long afterwards, two parties visited it; one from Sherlocks and the other from Mariposa.  With the party from Sherlocks, were the Mann brothers, who afterwards built a trail from Mariposa to the valley.  They commenced it in the fall of that year, 1855.  Mr. Hutchings' publications and lithographic illustration of the Yosemite, or highest fall, served to advertise the attractions.  From this period may be dated the commencement of the visits of tourists.  His influence has aided materially in affording improved facilities of access to it, and in providing for the comfort of visitors.  The interest growing out of Mr. Hutchings' visit to the Yosemite, together with the rumored prospect that Fremont &amp; Co. were about to do something with the "Mariposa Estate," aroused the energy of local capitalists, and encouraged the advent of settlers and miners.  Another company was organized to bring water from the foot of the valley into the "dry diggings."  The limited supply from the South Fork, it was thought, would be insufficient for the prospective demand.  Sufficient inducements having been offered to warrant the undertaking, Mr. George K. Peterson, an engineer by profession, and myself, joined in making the necessary survey.  We leveled two lines down through the can&tilde;on, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This, for a time, discouraged a continuance of the survey.  We returned to Mariposa and frankly reported the results of our work and explained the difficulties of the route to those who were most interested in the project.  For certain reasons it was deemed advisable to complete the survey between the branches of the river; when it was thought that some equitable arrangement could be made with the South Fork Company for a union of interests in case of sale.  The Yosemite Company proposed to convey water over or near the same route as the other, and also to supply water to the miners on the north side of the Merced.  By this stroke of policy, it was supposed that a <HI REND="italics">legal</HI>
135.sgm: division of water could be obtained, that the New Yorkers (Fremont &amp; Co.) would only be too glad to pay for.  I did not feel sanguine in the success of this scheme, and so expressed myself.  My experience in the can&tilde;on with Peterson taught me that an equivalent in cash, which was offered for my services (and which I accepted), was better than any speculative interest <HI REND="italics">in Spain</HI>
135.sgm:, or even New York.  The survey was accordingly recommenced.  Four of the company put up the body of a house in the valley.  This was the first house ever erected there.  It was of white cedar " <HI REND="italics">puncheons</HI>
135.sgm:<P>During this survey, while exploring the dividing ridges of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>As Peterson planted his instrument for an observation, the Indians cried out in alarm, thinking no doubt that he was aiming some infernal machine to destroy them.  I approached to see if I could recognize any of them as those who had visited our store, before the murders of our men.  I also scrutinized their clothing; but their ragged garments would not admit of even a surmise as to their quality or pattern.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Although I failed to recognize our visitors among these miserable people; it was quite evident that I was known to them.  I asked "who it was that had killed the men at our store?"  They at first pretended not to understand me; but seeing that they were not believed, one came forward, and in a mixture of Spanish and Indian informed me that it was the Tuolume Indians that were the criminals; while they themselves (if not the cleanest) were certainly the best Indians in the mountains.  Upon being asked why they were camped in such a place--without water, they said they were at first afraid of our party and the glistening instrument that had been aimed at them; but, that when they saw we were measuring the ground, and marking the trees, they were no longer alarmed, but were afraid of the Monos, whom they said were still angry with them.  I told them that it was because of their treachery and dishonesty that they had been made to suffer, and then left them in their wretchedness.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Quite early in the next year (1856), the survey for the water supply was recommenced under instructions from Colonel Fremont, and, under direction of his chief engineer, Mr. J. E. Clayton, Mr. Peterson was placed in charge of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>On reaching the South Fork, where we supposed the bridge to be, we found that a large tree had been felled across the stream with the design of forming the foundation of a bridge, but it had fallen so low, or so near the water on the opposite side, that a flood would be likely to sweep it away, and it had, therefore, been abandoned.  This was a great disappointment to Mr. Peterson.  As we could not ford the stream, we would have to go into camp or wait for the water to fall or go back, for the snow-clad ridges were impassable.  While Peterson was considering the matter, I took an axe and sloped and notched the butt of the tree so that I was able to get my horse, an intelligent animal, to clamber up on the prostrate trunk; when, without difficulty, I led him safely across and landed him on the other side of the stream.  We had two mules, whose natural timidity caused them to hesitate before attempting to climb the log, but their attachment for the horse, which they had seen safely cross, with some <HI REND="italics">persuasion</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The tree was about six feet in diameter.  Its cork-like bark afforded sure footing for the animals.  Peterson--very much pleased--pronounced this the most primitive bridge ever crossed by a pack-train, and declared that it should be recorded as an original engineering feat.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>While we were re-loading our animals the Mann Brothers came down to us, as they said to learn how we had crossed the rushing torrent; and were surprised to hear that we had utilized the tree abandoned by them.  They informed us that they were constructing a bridge further up the stream, which would be ready for crossing in a week or two.  We found no further difficulty in reaching the valley.  Not long after we had gone into camp, and commenced our survey again, visitors began to come into the valley.  Several gentlemen from San Francisco visited our camp, one of whom I remember was the Rev. Doctor Spier, of the Chinese Mission, in San Francisco.  Mr. Peterson had, upon my solicitation, "roded up" to the level of the Pohona Fall, and made as accurate an estimate of the probable height of El Capitan as could be done without the aid of his transit.  Mr. Peterson was therefore able to enlighten some of the gentlemen from "the Bay," as to the approximate height of El Capitan and other prominent objects.  Mr. Peterson afterwards made more accurate measurements of heights.</P>
135.sgm:<P>I have no doubt that the four gentlemen referred to as living in the valley, noticed in the note on page 18, in "Whitney's Yosemite Guide Book," were of our party, who had notified the public of their claim and intention to make that their residence.  The house erected, however, was never honored with a roof, and the material of which it was composed, soon disappeared, after we ceased to occupy it.  The difficulties developed by our survey, disheartened the claimants.  The claim rights, as well as the claim shanty were alike abandoned.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The first white woman that ever visited the Yosemite was a Madame Gautier, the housekeeper at the Franklin House, Mariposa.  A few days afterwards Mrs. Johnny Neil, of Mariposa, and Mrs. Thompson, of Sherlocks, came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:up.  Their courage and endurance should certainly be made a matter of record.  The next ladies to visit the place were of the party with Mr. Denman, of "Denman's High School," in San Francisco.  After this it ceased to be a novelty to see ladies in the Yosemite.  Mr. Denman published an account of his trip.  His communication was a well written and instructive article.  It was the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
135.sgm: description that gave the public any definite idea of the magnitude of the scenery, or any accuracy of measurements of the heights of the cliffs and water-falls.  I was present when Mr. Peterson gave to Mr. Denman the results of his observations, and consequent estimate of heights.  I was amused at Mr. Denman's expressions of surprise, and his anxious but polite inquiries of Mr. Peterson if he was <HI REND="italics">sure</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The offer was quickly accepted, and a new determination of several points of interest were made.</P>
135.sgm:<P>From the notes taken, each of the gentlemen computed the heights.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Peterson soon figured up the result of his work, and patiently awaited the result of Mr. Denman's, before he announced his own.</P>
135.sgm:<P>After figuring for sometime, Mr. Denman expressed a belief that he had made a grand mistake somewhere in his calculations, for he had made the result more than the previous estimates and above all seeming probabilities.  They then compared figures and found but little difference in their heights.  Mr. Denman again worked up the notes, and was convinced of their correctness and reported his conclusions in his descriptions.  The first house erected in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:valley for the accommodation of visitors was <HI REND="italics">commenced</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The next season a blue canvas-covered building was put up just above.  In 1858, Mr. Beardsley joined with Mr. Hite, and erected a wooden house.  This was afterwards kept by Mr. Peck, Mr. Longhurst, and after 1864, by Mr. Hutchings.  Other accommodations for the public were also opened, a popular one of which was a house kept by G. F. Leidig, known to tourists as Leidig's Hotel."  The first permanent resident, was J. C. Lamon, who made a claim in the upper part of the valley in 1860, and who occupied it both summer and winter for many years.  The other residents in the valley only remaining during the season of tourists visits.  Before hotel accommodations were provided for the public, visitors to the valley carried with them camp equipage and supplies according to the necessities and inclinations of the parties interested.</P>
135.sgm:<P>In order to dispense with a retinue of camp followers, and the expense of numerous employees, the duties of camp life were ordinarily divided among the party, without regard to wealth, rank, or station in life.  It was usually made a point of honor, to at least try to share in the necessary laborious requirements of their associates; although the various duties were not always assigned to the capacity of the individual, or to his adaptation to the position.  The blunders were as often sources of amusement, as serious inconveniences.  As illustration, I will narrate an incident with a party of excursionists in those early days.</P>
135.sgm:<P>By invitation, I met and accompanied a party from San Francisco on a visit to the Yosemite.  The gentlemen composing the party, were Mr. Thomas Ayers, Mr. Forbes, of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This party spent several days in the valley.  On the last day, it was proposed to have a grand dinner.  To make the event a memorable one, it was decided that each one should have a representative dish of his own individual preparation.  We had a plentiful supply of canned meats, fruits, etc., but it was proposed that our bill of fare should consist of game and fish.  Trout, grouse and quail, were then tolerably abundant.  To guard against a possibility of failure to supply a full variety, Colonel Riply volunteered to provide a dish of beans of his own cooking, which he thought he was prepared to furnish.  The cooking of beans was theoretically familiar to him, the Colonel said, from having frequently observed the process among his soldiers.  He admitted that, practically, he had never tested the theory, but he felt confident that he would not disgrace his position as a soldier in the cooking of such a prominent army dish.  From my knowledge of their haunts, it was assigned to me to provide the game, while Messrs. Easton, Ayers and Holladay, engaged to supply the spread with trout.  Mr. Forbes engaged to perform the duty of supplying wood and water, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>312</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>As I came into camp from my hunt, my nostrils were saluted with the smell of burnt beans.  Mr. Forbes had supplied the fire most liberally, and was resting from his labors to the <HI REND="italics">windward</HI>
135.sgm:.  I removed the kettle and inquired for the Colonel.  Mr. Forbes replied that "Col. Riply went down where the fishermen are engaged, and has been gone an hour or more; no doubt he has forgotten his beans."  I hastened to repair damages as far as I was able by removing those not scorched from off the burnt ones.  After scouring the kettle with sand, I succeeded in getting them over a slow fire before Col. Riply returned.  He soon came hurriedly into camp, and after taking a look at his cookery, pronounced them all right, but said he had <HI REND="italics">almost</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Observing that he was about to charge the kettle with an undue proportion of salt pork, I again saved the beans, this time from petrifaction, by remarking that their <HI REND="italics">delicacy</HI>
135.sgm:<P>With my guardianship, the Colonel's dish was brought on to the board in a very good condition for eating, and all united in bestowing upon him unstinted praise for providing so palatable an addition to our feast.  Col. Riply regretted that he had not provided <HI REND="italics">more</HI>
135.sgm:, but explained by saying that he had supposed <HI REND="italics">they would swell more while cooking</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The secret of the <HI REND="italics">burnt beans</HI>
135.sgm:, was known to all the others, but was kept inviolate from the Colonel.  He was unconscious of the joke, and bestowed more attention on this standard New England dish than he did upon the delicious trout and game.  Our dinner was finished in bumpers to Colonel Riply as <HI REND="italics">chef de cuisine</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>During the survey of the year, in addition to measurements, we gave some attention to the geological features of the country we were passing over.  We found that the can&tilde;on below the Yosemite is about six miles long, and so filled with vast granite bowlders and talus, that it is impossible for any but the agile and sure-footed to pass safely through.  The river has to be crossed and recrossed so many times, by jumping from bowlder to bowlder, where the water goes whirling and dashing between--that if the rocks be moss-grown or slimy, as they may be outside of continuous current--one's life is endangered.  During our survey through this can&tilde;on, in the month of November, 1855, we failed to get through in one day on our preliminary survey, and were compelled to camp without food or blankets, only sheltered from a storm--half snow, half rain--by an overhanging rock.  The pelting mountain storm put out our fires, as it swept down the can&tilde;on, and baffled all our attempts to kindle a new flame.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The fall through the can&tilde;on is so great, that none but the largest bowlders remain in the current.  Some of these immense rocks are so piled, one upon another, as to make falls of nearly one hundred feet.  The fall for the entire distance is about fifteen hundred feet.  Notwithstanding the fall is so great in so short a distance, advantage may be taken of the configuration of the walls on either side to construct a railroad up through the can&tilde;on into the valley, upon a grade and trestle, that may be made practicable.  This will, of course, cost money, but it will probably be done.  By tunneling the divide and spanning the South Fork with a bridge, a narrow-gauge road could very readily be built that would avoid the necessity of going <HI REND="italics">entirely</HI>
135.sgm: through the can&tilde;on.  This could be accomplished most economically by trestling over the talus--at a favorable point--high enough to obtain and preserve a suitable grade, until the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The obstructions from snow, encountered in a winter trip to the valley, would by this route, be entirely avoided.  Beside, the distance would be somewhat lessened.  By rail and stage it is now about 225 miles from San Francisco.</P>
135.sgm:<P>After emerging from the can&tilde;on, with its precipitous granite cliffs and water falls, the entire character of the river's bed and banks are changed.  The cliffs have now all disappeared with the granite, and although the steep high mountain divides encroach hard upon the river; high bars or low flats continue on down to the mouth of the South Fork on one side or the other, and then the flats rise higher to the plains.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The fall of the Merced river from the foot of the can&tilde;on to the valley of the San Joaquin, averages about thirty-five feet to the mile as estimated by Mr. Peterson.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The outcroppings from the rocky divides below the can&tilde;on, are porphyritic, metamorphic, and trappean rocks, silicious limestone, gneiss, green stone, quartz and several varieties of slate.  At a point on the left bank of the Merced, near the plain, there is an outcropping of very good limestone, and it is also found, at one point in the Yosemite.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The quartz lodes drained by the Merced river, especially those of Marble Springs, Gentry's gulch and Maxwells creek, bore a good reputation in early days; and as the drainage may be made complete, no difficulty in working them need be encountered.  In some cases, the more prominent lodes, maintain their general direction and thickness (seldom richness) on both sides of the Merced; as, for instance, the celebrated Carson vein.  This vein outcrops at the Pen&tilde;a Blanca, near Coultersville, and again south of the Merced river, on a spur running down from Mount Bullion.  Here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This lode was discovered in the winter of 1850-'51, by a progressive Virginia liberal, named B. F. Johnson, familiarly known as "Quartz Johnson."</P>
135.sgm:<P>His discoveries led to the investment of millions of capital in mining enterprises, and if the share-holders of Mariposa Stock have not yet realized upon their investments, it cannot be for want of material; but, I must return to my subject.  After having completed the survey of this year, 1856, and having interests at Marble Springs, I joined with George W. Coulter, of Coultersville, and other citizens in constructing what became known as " <HI REND="italics">The Coultersville Free Trail</HI>
135.sgm:."  We thought the scheme advisable, but the " <HI REND="italics">general public</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The trail completed this year by the Mann brothers required greater labor, and was not as good a route, but the views of the Yosemite from their trail, were the best.  The Mann brothers did not find theirs a paying investment.  They never realized their expenditures, and eventually sold the trail at a loss.</P>
135.sgm:<P>In locating the Coultersville trail, little or no aid was afforded me by the Indian trails that existed at that time; for horses had not seemingly been taken into the valley on the north side, and the foot trails used by the Indians left <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:<P>The first encampment reached after leaving Bull creek, was "Deer Flat," so named by us from having startled a small drove, as we went into camp here.  One of the deer was shot, and afforded an addition to our camp supplies.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The next camp named was "Hazel Green," from the number of hazel bushes growing near a beautiful little meadow.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Our next move was to "Crane Flat."  This name was suggested by the shrill and startling cry of some sand-hill cranes we surprised as they were resting on this elevated table.  Going from this camp, we came to what I finally called "Tamarack Flat," although the appealing looks of the grizzlies we met on their way through this pass to the Tuolumne, caused me to hesitate before deciding upon the final baptism; the Grizzlies did not stay to urge any claim, and being <HI REND="italics">affectionately</HI>
135.sgm:<P>With but little fatigue to one accustomed to the saddle, the trip <HI REND="italics">down</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The wagon roads now opened, are calculated to avoid the deep snow that delays the use of higher trails, or roads, until later in the season; but one traveling by these routes, loses some of the grandest views to be had of the High Sierras and western ranges of hills and mountains; on the old Coultersville Trail, or by way of the old Mariposa Trail.  In winter or early spring, in order to avoid the snow, visitors are compelled to take the route of the lowest altitude.  The route by Hite's cove is called but thirty-two miles from Mariposa to the valley; while that by Clark's, on the South Fork, has been usually rated at about forty-two miles.  Where the time can be spared, I would suggest that what is called "the round trip" be made; that is, go by one route and return by another; and a " <HI REND="italics">Grand Round</HI>
135.sgm: " trip will include a visit to the "High Sierra:" going by one <HI REND="italics">divide</HI>
135.sgm:<P>As to guides and accommodating hosts, there will always be found a sufficient number to meet the increasing wants of the public, and the enterprise of these gentlemen will suggest a ready means of becoming acquainted with their visitors.  Soon, no doubt, a railroad will be laid into the valley, and when the " <HI REND="italics">iron horse</HI>
135.sgm: " shall have ridden over all present obstacles, a new starting point for summer tourists will be built up in the Yosemite; that the robust lovers of nature may view the divine creations that will have been lost to view in a Pullman.  The exercise incident to a summer <HI REND="italics">lounge</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The passes and peaks named in Prof. Whitney's guide-book are only the more prominent ones; for turn the eyes along the course of the Sierra Nevada in a northerly or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The highest of these peaks, Mount Whitney, is, according to Prof. Whitney, at least 200 feet higher than any measured in the Rocky Mountains by the topographers of the Hayden survey.  A writer in the Virginia (Nevada) <HI REND="italics">Enterprise</HI>
135.sgm:<P>It is true that one standing upon the dividing ridges of the Rio Grande, Arkansas, Colorado or Platte, is charmed by the views presented of far reaching plains and noble mountains, but it is doubtful if any one view can be found in North America so grand and thrillingly sublime as may be seen in the Sierra Nevadas.  The scenery of the Yellow Stone and of the Colorado canyon have characteristic wonders that are <HI REND="italics">sui generis</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Golden Theories and Glaciers.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The many inquiries that the author has received concerning his views upon the gold deposits of California, has induced him to add this chapter to his work.</P>
135.sgm:<P>It has been said by an earnest and astute observer, that "The cooled earth permits us no longer to comprehend the phenomena of the primitive creation, because the fire which pervaded it is extinguished," and again that "There is no great foundation (of truth), which does not repose upon a legend."  There has been a tradition among the California Indians, that the Golden Gate was opened by an earthquake, and that the waters that once covered the great plain of the Sacramento and San Joaquin basins were thus emptied into the ocean.  This legendary geology of the Indians is about as good and instructive as some that has been taught by professors of the science, and as scarcely any two professors of geology agree in their theories of the origin and distribution of the gold in California, I have thought it probable that a few <HI REND="italics">unscientific</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The origin of the gold found in California seems to me to have been clearly volcanic.  The varying conditions under which it is found may be accounted for by the varying heat and force of the upheaval, the different qualities of the matrix or quartz that carried the gold and filled the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The theories of aqueous deposit (in the lodes) and of electrical action, do not satisfy my understanding, and I go back in thought to the ten years of observation and practical experience in the gold mines, and to the problems that were then but partially solved.  Looking at California as it is to-day, it will be conceded that its territory has been subjected to distinct geological periods, and those periods greatly varying in their force in different parts of the State.  Within the principal gold-bearing region of California, and especially along the line of or near the Carson vein or lode, coarse gold has been found, and in such large masses, free of quartz, as to force the conviction upon the mind that the gold so found had been thrown out <HI REND="italics">through</HI>
135.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">beyond</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Prof. Le Conte says:  "The invariable association of metaliferous veins with metamorphism demonstrates the agency of heat."  Experiments of Daubre and others prove that water at 750&deg; Fahr. reduces to a pasty condition nearly all rocks.  Deposits of silica in a gelatinous form, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:hardens on cooling, may be seen at some of the geysers of the Yellowstone; the heat, no doubt, being at a great depth.  Quartz, like glass and lava, cools rapidly <HI REND="italics">externally</HI>
135.sgm: when exposed to air, or a cool surface, and would very readily hold suspended any substance <HI REND="italics">volatilized</HI>
135.sgm:, or crudely mixed into its substance.  Its difficult <HI REND="italics">secondary</HI>
135.sgm:<P>It is altogether probable from experiments tried by Stanislas Muenier and others, that the sudden removal of pressure is a sufficient cause of superheated water and mineral substances flashing into steam and lava.  The geysers are evidently formed by varying temperature and interruption of flow by removal of pressure.  Mr. Fanques, in an article in the <HI REND="italics">Popular Science Monthly</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The phenomena attending the recent eruptions in Java demonstrate the incredible force and chemical effects of superheated steam.  Modern researches and experiments in mechanical and chemical forces have greatly modified the views once entertained by geologists, and I think that it will now be conceded that repeated volcanic disturbances, taken in connection with the action of glaciers, will account for most, if not all, the phenomena discoverable in the gold fields and mountains of California.  As a rule, gold-bearing veins in clay or talcose slates have the gold more evenly diffused than those found in the harder rocks, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>Prof. Le Conte says: "There are in many parts of California two systems of river beds--an old and a new. ** The old, or dead, river system runs across the present drainage system in a direction far more southerly; this is especially true of northern members of the system.  Farther south the two systems are more nearly parallel, showing less movement in that region.  These old river beds are filled with drift gravel, and often covered with lava."  The lava referred to is relatively of modern origin, and the molten streams have in many instances covered the ancient streams, and in others cut them in twain.  The "Blue Lead" is a very old river bed that has been the principal source of supply of the placer gold of the northern mines, and it must have existed as a river long anterior to the more modern upheavals that disturbed its course by forming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The well rounded boulders and pebbles found in the beds of these ancient rivers render it probable that they were of considerable length, and that they may have been the channels of very ancient glaciers.  It is also probable that the region covered by glaciers at different epochs is much more extensive than has been generally supposed.  To me it appears probable, that during some of the eras of formation, they may have stretched across the entire continent.  I have not space to give in detail the evidences of glacial action, but will simply state that <HI REND="italics">remains</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I have no doubt of the truth of this theory of formation as it relates to the Sierra Nevada ranges as they exist today, for the intrusion of the granite into the slate formations suggests a force far greater than can be ascribed to volcanic action alone.  The <HI REND="italics">previous</HI>
135.sgm: condition of the "continental mass" can not be so well imagined; yet reasoning from what we know of the present condition of the Sierras we may with propriety assume that great changes had occurred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>This statement of Mr. Muir will especially apply to the "glistening rocks" at the sources of the Merced and Tuolumne rivers, in view on this trail through the Mono Pass.  The evidences of past glacial action in polishing the domes, mountains and valleys <HI REND="italics">above</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Prof. Samuel Kneeland, the well known author of "Wonders of the Yosemite," in a letter to me upon the subject, says: "I think there can be no doubt that the valley was filled, and 1,000 feet above, by ice--that while the <HI REND="italics">mass above</HI>
135.sgm:, moved, that in the valley, conforming to its configuration, was comparatively stationary, lasting much longer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>"I agree with Prof. Whitney that the valley was the result of a subsidence, long anterior to the glacial epoch, and that the valley itself, except upon its edges and upper sides, has not been materially modified by the glacier movement."  Prof. J. D. Whitney, in his geological report says: "The Yosemite valley is a unique and wonderful locality; it is an exceptional creation; *** cliffs absolutely vertical, like the upper portions of the Half Dome and El Capitan, and of such immense height as these, are, so far as we know, to be seen nowhere else. ** How has this unique valley been formed, and what are the geological causes which have produced its wonderful cliffs, and all the other features which combine to make this locality so remarkable?  These questions we will endeavor to answer, as well as our ability to pry into what went on in the deep-seated regions of the earth in former geological ages will permit."  Mr. Whitney explicitly states his belief that most of the great canyons and valleys have resulted from aqueous denudation and erosion and cites the cutting through the lava of Table Mountain at Abbey's Ferry on the Stanislaus river as proof, and, continuing, to the exception, says: "It is sufficient to look for a moment at the vertical faces of El Capitan and the Bridal Veil Rock turned down the valley, or away from the direction in which the eroding forces must have acted, to be able to say that aqueous erosion could not have been the agent employed to do any such work. ** Much less can it be supposed that the peculiar form of the Yosemite is due to the erosive action of ice. ** Besides, there is no reason to suppose, or at least no proof, that glaciers have ever occupied the valley, or any portion of it. ** So that this theory, based on entire ignorance of the whole subject, may be dropped without wasting any more time upon it.</P>
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135.sgm:<P>"The theory of erosion not being admissible to account for the formation of the Yosemite valley, we have to fall back on some one of those movements of the earth's crust to which the primal forms of mountain valleys are due.  The forces which have acted to produce valleys are complex in their nature, and it is not easy to classify the forms, which have resulted from them, in a satisfactory manner."  After describing the generally received theories of mountain and valley formations, Mr. Whitney says: "We conceive that, during the process of upheaval of the Sierra, or possibly at some time after that had taken place, there was at the Yosemite a subsidence of a limited area, marked by lines of 'fault' or fissure crossing each other somewhat nearly at right angles.  In other and more simple language, the bottom of the valley sank down to an unknown depth, owing to its support being withdrawn from underneath, during some of those convulsive movements which must have attended the upheaval of so extensive and elevated a chain, no matter how slow we may imagine the process to have been.  Subsidence over extensive areas of portions of the earth's crust is not at all a new idea in geology, and there is nothing in this peculiar application of it which need excite surprise.  It is the great amount of vertical displacement for the small area implicated which makes this a peculiar case; but it would not be easy to give any good reason why such an exceptionable result should not be brought about amid the complicated play of forces which the elevation of a great mountain chain must set in motion.  By the adoption of the subsidence theory for the formation of the Yosemite, we are able to get over one difficulty which appears insurmountable to any other.  This is the very small amount of debris at the base of the cliffs, and, even at a few points, its entire absence."  In the space allotted to this chapter, I am able only to quote a few passages from Prof.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>In contrast to the conclusions arrived at by Prof. Whitney, I extract from Prof. Le Conte's Elements of Geology, pages 526 and 527, the following: "1st.  During the epoch spoken of (the glacial) a great glacier, receiving its tributaries from Mount Hoffman, Cathedral Peaks, Mount Lyell and Mount Clark groups, filled Yosemite valley, and passed down Merced canyon.  The evidences are clear everywhere, but especially in the upper valleys, where the ice action lingered longest.  2nd.  At the same time tributaries from Mount Dana, Mono Pass, and Mount Lyell met at the Tuolumne meadows to form an immense glacier which, overflowing its bounds a little below Soda springs, sent a branch down the Ten-ie-ya canyon to join the Yosemite glacier, while the main current flowed down the Tuolumne canyon and through the Hetch-Hetchy valley.  Knobs of granite 500 to 800 feet high, standing in its pathway, were enveloped and swept over, and are now left round and polished and scored in the most perfect manner.  This glacier was at least 40 miles long and 1,000 feet thick, for its stranded lateral-moraines may be traced so high along the slopes of the bounding mountains."  In an article by John Muir, published in the New York <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
135.sgm:, and kindly furnished me by Prof. Kneeland, will be seen views differing from those of Prof. Whitney, but Mr. Muir has spent long years of study upon the glacial summits of the Sierras, and if an enthusiast, is certainly a close student of nature.  The paper was written to his friend Prof. Kunkle, of Boston, who had views similar to his own.  Mr. Muir says: "I have been over my glacial territory, and am surprised to find it so small and fragmentary.  The work of ancient ice which you and I explored, and which we were going to christen `Glacial System of the Merced' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>"All of the magnificent mountain truths that we read together last Autumn are only beginning sentences in the grand Sierra Nevada volume.  The Merced ice basin was bounded by the summits of the main range and by the spurs which once reached to the summits, viz.: the Hoffman and Obelisk ranges.  In this basin not one island existed; all of its highest peaks were washed and overflowed by the ice--Starr King, South Dome and all.  Vast ice currents broke over into the Merced basin, and most of the Tuolumne ice had to cross the great Tuolumne canyon.</P>
135.sgm:<P>"It is only the vastness of the glacial pathways of this region that prevents their being seen and comprehended at once.  A scholar might be puzzled with the English alphabet if it was written large enough, and, if each letter was made up of many smaller ones.  The beds of those vast ice rivers are veiled with forests and a network of tiny water channels.  You will see by the above sketch that Yosemite was completely overwhelmed with glaciers, and they did not come squeezing, groping down to the main valley by the narrow, angular, tortuous canyons of the Ten-ie-ya, Nevada or South canyons, but they flowed grandly and directly above all of its highest domes, like a steady wind, while their lower currents went mazing and swedging down in the crooking and dome-blocked channels of canyons.</P>
135.sgm:<P>"Glaciers have made every mountain form of this whole region; even the summit mountains are only fragments of their pre-glacial selves.</P>
135.sgm:<P>"Every summit wherein are laid the wombs of glaciers is steeper on its north than its south side, because of the depth and duration of sheltered glaciers, above those exposed to the sun, and this steepness between the north and south sides of summits is greater in the lower summits, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>"In ascending any of the principal streams of this region, lakes in all stages of decay are found in great abundance, gradually becoming younger until we reach the almost countless gems of the summits with basins bright as their crystal waters.  Upon the Nevada and its branches, there are not fewer than a hundred of these lakes, from a mile to a hundred yards in diameter, with countless glistening pondlets about the size of moons.  Both the Yosemite and the Hetch-Hetchy valleys are lake basins filled with sand and the matter of morains easily and rapidly supplied by their swift descending rivers from upper morains.  The mountains above Yosemite have scarce been touched by any other denudation but that of ice.  Perhaps all of the post glacial denudation of every kind would not average an inch in depth for the whole region.</P>
135.sgm:<P>"I am surprised to find that water has had so little to do with the mountain structure of this region.  None of the upper Merced streams give record of floods greater than those of to-day.  The small water channel, with perpendicular walls, is about two feet in depth a few miles above the Little Yosemite.  The Nevada here, even in flood, never was more than four or five feet in depth.  Glacial stri&aelig; and glacial drift, undisturbed on banks of streams but little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The views entertained by Mr. Muir are, for the most part, in consonance with my own.  That the valley was originally formed as supposed by Prof. Whitney I do not doubt, but to suppose that the vast bodies of ice, stated by Mr. Whitney to have existed at the sources of the Merced river, could have halted in their glacial flow down the steep declivities of its canyons, seems as absurd as to suppose one entertaining opposite views "ignorant of the whole subject."  As a matter susceptible of eternal proof, I will state that in the canyon below the Yosemite there are existing to-day, large, well rounded bowlders that I think a geologist would say had been brought from above the valley; and if so, water alone could scarcely have brought them over the sunken bed of the valley, or if filled to its present level of about thirty-five feet descent to the mile, the laws that govern aqueous deposits would have left those huge masses of rock far above their present location in the canyon.  Some of the bowlders referred to will weigh twenty tons or more, and, in connection with flat or partially rounded rocks fallen, probably, from the adjacent cliff, form waterfalls in the middle of the canyon, of from fifty to one hundred feet of perpendicular height.  The fall through the canyon averages over two hundred feet to the mile.  Well rounded bowlders of granite and other hard stones may be seen for long distances below the Yosemite, on hillsides and flats far above the present bed of the river, and, in some instances, deposited with those bowlders, have been found well rounded and swedged masses of gold.  The experiments and observations of Agassiz, Forbes and others, render it probable that the valley of the Yosemite was filled with ice, but that the upper surface moved more rapidly, carrying down most of the material brought from mountains <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:above the valley.  The observations of Prof. Tyndall render it almost certain that a glacier does <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Partial liquefaction by pressure would enable a glacier in the Yosemite to conform to the inequalities of its configuration, and regelation would perhaps retard its flow sufficiently to enable the more rapid moving surface and center of the glacier to carry its burden on from above without marking the lower portion of the inclosing walls, as for instance, may be seen at Glacier Point.  It has been suggested that "the immense weight of ice that once filled the Yosemite had an important part in the formation of it."  This idea is untenable, because the valley must have already been formed, in order for space to have exist d for "the immense weight of ice;" and unless the earth's crust under the valley was previously broken as suggested in the able theory of Prof. Whitney, no possible weight of any kind could exert a depressing influence upon the surface.</P>
135.sgm:<P>If it were possible, for the reconciliation of geologists, to believe that the subsidence in the valley occurred at about the close of the glacial flow, thereby changing the appearace of the inclosing walls, yet still leaving material to fill the chasm, a great part of the mystery that will always remain as one of the "Wonders of the Yosemite," would then disappear.  As it is, we are compelled to believe, not in miracles, but that the glacier that flowed over the Yosemite was so great in depth as to leave, like some deep sea or ocean, its bottom undisturbed by the tumultuous aeriel strife upon its surface.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Now, those glacial heights have, at times, a solitude unutterly profound!  Not a bird or beast to break the stillness, nor disturb the solemn charm.  Nor does the Indian, even, loiter on his way, but hastens on down to his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:mountain meadows or wooded valleys.  There, if anywhere, the poet's idea can be realized, that:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Silence is the heart of all things; sound the fluttering of its pulse,<LB>Which the fever and the spasm of the universe convulse.<LB>Every sound that breaks the silence only makes it more profound,<LB>Like a crash of deafening thunder in the sweet, blue stillness drowned<LB>Let thy soul walk softly in thee, as a saint in heaven unshod,<LB>For to be alone with silence, is to be alone with God."</HI>
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135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BIG TREE (Height, 325 feet; circumference, 100 feet.</P>
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135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Big Trees of California or Sequoia Gigantea--Their Discovery and Classification.</P>
135.sgm:<P>IN speaking of the discovery of the " <HI REND="italics">Big Trees</HI>
135.sgm:<P>"So incredulous were Doud's employers and companions, when told of his discovery, that a ruse had to be resorted to, to get men to go and view the trees."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Big trees in Mariposa county, were <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The trees seen and described by Major Burney and his party, were only a few scattering ones on the Fresno and South Fork divide.  The major spoke of the trees as a new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:variety of cedar, and when he gave the measurements that he claimed the party had made with their picket-ropes tied together, his auditors thought he was endeavoring to match some "big yarns" told around our camp fire at the mouth of the Merced river.  Afterwards, while sheriff, the Major indicated the locality and size of the trees, in reply to some one's description of the big yellow pine that lay prostrate on what became the Yosemite trail, and when rallied a little for his extravagance of statement, declared that though true, he should not speak of the big trees again, for it was unpleasant to be considered an habitual <HI REND="italics">joker</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I asked the major, seriously, about the trees he had described, and he as seriously replied that he measured the trees as stated, but did not regard them as very remarkable, for he had seen accounts of even taller ones, if not larger, that were growing in Oregon.<ANCHOR ID="n21-1">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm: In referring to these large trees, they were spoken of as being on the ridge known to us afterwards as the Black Ridge.  The big trees of the Kah-we-ah and Tu-le river regions, were first noticed by a party of miners returning from the " <HI REND="italics">White River</HI>
135.sgm: " excitement of 1854, but as these men were uncultured, and the Calavaras grove was already known, no notice was taken by " <HI REND="italics">The Press</HI>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-1">See Gen. John Bidwell's account in <HI REND="italics">Century</HI>
135.sgm:<P>It has been thought strange that no member of the "Mariposa battalion" should have discovered any of the big trees, but they did not.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Among forests of such very large pines, cedar and fir trees, as grow adjacent to and among the sequoia, an unusually large tree would not probably have attracted much attention.  Had a grove of them, however, been discovered, the fact would have been spoken of in the battalion.  As the species was not known to any of us at the time, even had any been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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135.sgm:seen, and even the pendant character of their branches noticed, doubtless they would have been classed and spoken of as " <HI REND="italics">cedar</HI>
135.sgm:."  I do not believe, however, that any of the battalion ever <HI REND="italics">noticed</HI>
135.sgm: these trees, for the reason that strict orders were given against straggling, and our explorations were, for the most part, in the mountains <HI REND="italics">above</HI>
135.sgm:<P>A few of the Mariposa big trees were first brought into notice by the discoveries of Mr. Hogg in the summer of 1855.  The year previous, Mr. Hogg was in the employ of Reynolds, Caruthers and myself, and proving an able assistant and expert hunter, he was employed by our successors, the "South Fork Ditch Company," to supply them with game.  During one of his hunting expeditions, Mr. Hogg discovered some sequoia on a branch of "Big Creek," and relating his discoveries to Mr. Galen Clark, Mr. Mann and others, the exact locality was indicated, and became known.  During the autumn of this year (1855), other trees were discovered by Mr. J. E. Clayton, while exploring and testing, by barometrical measurements, the practicability of bringing water from the branches of the San Joaquin to increase the supply from the South Fork of the Merced.  Upon Mr. Clayton's second visit, a few days later, I accompanied him, and was shown his discoveries.</P>
135.sgm:<P>About the first of June, 1856, Galen Clark and Milton Mann discovered what has now become famous as the "Mariposa Grove."  The next season Mr. Clark came upon two smaller groves of sequoia in the near vicinity of the big grove.  Not long after, he discovered quite a large collection at the head of the Fresno.  This grove was visited two days after its discovery by L. A. Holmes, of the "Mariposa Gazette," and Judge Fitzhugh, while hunting; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The groves of big trees on the North and South Tule rivers, said to contain thousands, were discovered in 1867, by Mr. D'Henreuse, of the State Geological Survey.  From the foregoing statement concerning the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia</HI>
135.sgm:, or Big Trees, and the well known fact of their easy propagation and distribution over the whole civilized world, it is no longer feared that the species is in any <HI REND="italics">immediate</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Upon the tributaries of the Kah-we-ah river, these trees are converted by the mills into lumber, which is sold about as cheap as pine.  The lumber is much like the famous red-wood of California, and is equally durable, though perhaps not so easily worked.  Although of the same genus as the red-wood, the <HI REND="italics">species</HI>
135.sgm: is distinct, the "Big Trees" being known as the Sequoia Gigantea, while the California red-wood is known as the Sequoia Sempervirens.  This statement may seem unnecessary to the botanist, but the two species are so frequently confounded in respectable eastern periodicals, that the statement here is deemed proper.  Besides this, absurd fears have been expressed by those uninformed of the facility with which these trees have been cultivated in Europe and in this country, that the species will soon become extinct.<ANCHOR ID="n21-2">*</ANCHOR>
135.sgm: Professor Whitney says: "It is astonishing how little that is really reliable is to be found in all that has been published about big trees.  No correct statement of their distribution or dimensions has appeared in print; and if their age has been correctly stated in one or two scientific journals, no such information ever finds its way into the popular descriptions of this tree, which are repeated over and over again in contributions to newspapers and in books of travel. ***** No other plant ever attracted so much attention or attained such a celebrity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-2">Most of the Big Trees of Tulare County are within the new "Sequoia Park."</NOTE>
135.sgm:<P>The big tree is extremely limited in its range, even more so than its twin brother, the red-wood.  The latter is strictly a coast-range or sea-board tree; the other, inland or exclusively limited to the Sierra.  Both trees are also peculiarly Californian.  A very few of the red-wood may be found just across the border in Oregon, but the big tree has never been found outside of California, and probably never will be."  In a note Prof. Whitney says:</P>
135.sgm:<P>"There are several <HI REND="italics">fossil</HI>
135.sgm: species of the <HI REND="italics">genus sequoia</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>"When we observe how regularly and gradually the trees diminish in size from the highest down, it will be evident that the stories told of trees having once stood in this grove over 400 feet in height, are not entitled to credence.  It is not at all likely that any one tree should have overtopped all the others by seventy-five feet or more.  The same condition of general average elevation and absence of trees very much taller than any of the rest in the grove will be noticed among the trees on the Mariposa grant, where, however, there is no one as high as 300 feet."</P>
135.sgm:<P>The average height of the Mariposa trees is less than that of the Calavaras Grove, while the circumference of the largest is greater.  Prof. Whitney measured the annual growths of one of the largest of the Calavaras group that had been felled, which he made out to be only about 1,300 years old.  The Professor says:</P>
135.sgm:<P>"The age of the big trees is not so great as that assigned by the highest authorities to some of the English yews.  Neither is its height as great, by far, as that of an Australian species, the <HI REND="italics">eucalyptus amygdalina</HI>
135.sgm:<P>"There are also trees which exceed the big trees in diameter, as, for instance, the baobab (adansonia digitata), but this species is always comparatively low, not exceeding sixty or seventy feet in height, and much swollen at the base."</P>
135.sgm:<P>Mr. Whitney concludes his chapter on the sequoia by saying:</P>
135.sgm:<P>"On the whole, it may be stated, that there is no known tree which approaches the sequoia in grandeur; thickness and height being both taken into consideration, unless it be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RIDING THROUGH THE TREE TRUNK.</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:the <HI REND="italics">eucalyptus</HI>
135.sgm:<P>Prof. Whitney gives the measurement of the largest tree in the Mariposa Grove as ninety-three feet seven inches, at the ground, and sixty-four feet three inches at eleven feet above.  This tree is known as the "Grizzly Giant;" its two diameters were, at the base, as near as could be measured, thirty and thirty-one feet.  This tree has been very much injured by fire, no allowance for which was made.  It is probable that could the tree--and others like it--have escaped the fires set by the Indians, to facilitate the gathering of their annual supplies and the pursuit of game, exact measurements would show a circumference of over 100 feet.  But, even as large as it is, its size does not at once impress itself upon the understanding.</P>
135.sgm:<P>There are nine or ten separate groves of "Big Trees," in California, and all lie upon the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada at an altitude of from five to seven thousand feet above the sea.  Mr. A. B. Whitehall has given a very interesting account of these in the Chicago <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
135.sgm:<P>"The wood is soft, light, elastic, straight grained, and looks like cedar.  The bark is deeply corrugated, longitudinally, and so spongy as to be used for pin cushious.  The branches seldom appear below 100 feet from the ground, and shoot out in every direction from the trunk.  The leaves are of two kinds--those of the younger trees and the lower branches of the larger set in pairs opposite each other on little stems, and those growing on branches which have flowered, triangular in shape, and lying close down to the stem.  The cones are remarkable for their diminutive size, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>"In the South Park and Calaveras groves there are some remarkable trees.  One tree in the South Park grove will hold forty persons in the hollow of its trunk; another has sheltered sixteen horses.  The four highest trees in the Calaveras grove, are the Keystone State, 325 feet high, Gen. Jackson, 319 feet, Mother of the Forest, 315 feet, and the Daniel Webster of 307 feet high.  The Husband and Wife are a pair of trees gracefully leaning against each other, 250 feet high, and each sixty feet in circumference.  The Hermit is a solitary specimen of great proportions; the Old Maid, a disconsolate looking spinster, fifty-nine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<illus entity="a135-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE TUNNELLED TREE.</P>
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135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>I can give my readers no better idea of the solemn immensity of the trees, than by again quoting Mr. Whitehall.  He says in conclusion: "Although it was then June, yet the eternal snows of the mountains were everywhere around us, and, as the huge banks and drifts stretched away off in the distance, the melting power of heat and the elements was on every side defied.  Not a weed or blade of grass relieved the monotony of the view; not the chirping of an insect or the twittering of a bird was heard.  The solemn stillness of the night added a weird grandeur to the scene.  Now and then a breath of wind stirred the topmost branches of the pines and cedars, and as they swayed to and fro in the air the music was like that of Ossian, `pleasant but mournful to the soul.'  There were sequoias on every side almost twice as high as the falls of Niagara; there were pines rivaling the dome of the capitol at Washington in grandeur; there were cedars to whose tops the monument of Bunker Hill would not have reached.  There were trees which were in the full vigor of manhood before America itself was discovered; there were others which were yet old before Charlemagne was born; there were others still growing when the Savior himself was on the earth.  There were trees which had witnessed the winds and storms of twenty centuries; there were others which would endure long after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
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135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
135.sgm:<P>Statistics--Roads and Accommodations--Chapel and Sunday School--Big Farms and Great Resources--A Variety of Products--Long Hoped for Results</P>
135.sgm:<P>Records of the numbers of visitors to the Yosemite down to and inclusive of 1875, show that in 1852 Rose and Shurban were murdered by the savages, while their companion, Tudor, though wounded, escaped.  The next year, 1853, eight men from the North Fork of the Merced, visited the valley, returning unharmed.  Owing to murders of Starkey, Sevil and Smith, in the winter of 1853-'4, as it was believed, by the Yosemites, no visitors entered the valley during the summer of 1854.  In 1855 Messrs. Hutchings, Ayers, Stair and Milliard, visited it without being disturbed by the sight of any of the original proprietors, either Indians or grizzlies.  Mr. Hutchings, on his return to San Francisco, began to draw the attention of the public to the Yosemite, through his magazine and otherwise.  Notwithstanding the ample means afforded by his magazine, and his facilities as a writer, Mr. Hutchings found it difficult to bring the valley into prominent and profitable notice, and few Californians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:could be induced to make it a visit.  A peculiarity of those days was a doubt of the marvelous, and a fear of being " <HI REND="italics">sold</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The following season, 1856, it was visited by ladies from Mariposa and San Francisco, who safely enjoyed the pleasures and <HI REND="italics">inconveniences</HI>
135.sgm: of the trip; aroused and excited to the venture, no doubt, by their traditional curiosity.  The fact being published that ladies could safely enter the valley, lessened the dread of Indians and grizzlies, and after a few <HI REND="italics">brave reports</HI>
135.sgm:<P>From this time on to 1864, a few entered every season; but during these times California had a <HI REND="italics">wonder</HI>
135.sgm:<P>According to the <HI REND="italics">Mariposa Gazette</HI>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Gazette</HI>
135.sgm:<P>I have no doubt the number has been greater even than was estimated, for improved facilities for entering the valley have since been established.  Seven principal <HI REND="italics">routes</HI>
135.sgm:<P>With cars entering the valley, thousands of tourists of moderate wealth would visit it; and then on foot, from the hotels, be able to see most of the sublime scenery of the mountains.</P>
135.sgm:<P>If horses or carriages should be desired, for the more distant points of interest, they may readily be obtained in the valley at reasonable rates.  At present, the expense of travel by stage, carriage and horseback, is considerable, and many visiting California, do not feel able to incur the extra expense of a visit to the Yosemite.</P>
135.sgm:<P>Visitors intending to see both the big trees and the Yosemite Valley, should visit the trees first, as otherwise the forest monarchs will have lost a large share of their interest and novelty</P>
135.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The hotel charges are not much higher than elsewhere in the State, and the fare is as good as the average in cities.  If extras are required, payment will be expected as in all localities.  There is more water falling in the spring months, but the water-falls are but fractions of the interest that att ches to the region.  Yosemite is always grandly beautiful; even in winter it has attractions for the robust, but invalids had better visit it only after the snow has disappeared from the lower levels, generally, from about the first of May to the middle of June.</P>
135.sgm:<P>From that date on to about the first of November, the valley will be found a most delightful summer resort, with abundant fruits and vegetables of perfect growth and richest flavor.</P>
135.sgm:<P>All modern conveniences and many luxuries of enlightened people are now to be found, gathered in full view of the great fall and its supporting scenery.  The hotels, telegraph, express and post offices are there, and a Union Chapel dedicated at a grand gathering of the National Sunday School Union, held during the summer of 1879, is regularly used for religious services.  Those who may wish to commune with Nature's God alone while in the Yosemite, will be in the very innermost sanctuary of all that is Divine in material creation for the valley is a holy Temple, and if their hearts are attuned to the harmony surrounding them, "the testimony of the Rocks" will bring conviction to their souls.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The unique character of Mirror Lake will leave its indelible impressions upon the tourist's mind, and residents of the Yosemite will gladly inform him of the varying proper time in the morning when its calm stillness will enable one to witness its greatest charm, the " <HI REND="italics">Double Sunrise</HI>
135.sgm:."  That phenomena may be ascribed to the lake's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>As a matter of fact, differing according to the seasons of the year, "sunrise on the lake" may be seen in its reflections two or more times in the same morning, and, if the visitor be at the lake when the breeze first comes up on its daily appearance from the plains, shattering the lake mirror into fragments, innumerable suns will appear to dazzle and bewilder the beholder.</P>
135.sgm:<P>The wonderful scenery and resources of California are becoming known and appreciated.  A large addition has been made to, and surrounding the Yosemite and Big Tree Parks, which in time may become one (see map); and another very large National Park has been established in Tulare County, to be known as the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia</HI>
135.sgm:<P>These figures are published as official, and were well calculated to make the small farmers of the east open their eyes; they will yet open the eyes of the land owners themselves to the importance of bringing their estates under successful and remunerative cultivation.  This will have to be done in order that these acres may be made to pay a just taxation.  Thousands of acres that are of little use to the owners or the public--of no value to the state--can, by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>These lands are among the richest in the world.  They grow cotton, tobacco, rice and other southern staples, equal to the best of the Southern States, with much less danger from malaria.  The valleys of the San Joaquin and Sacramento, which are simply <HI REND="italics">local</HI>
135.sgm:<P>The raisins grown and cured in California are said to be equal to the best Malaga; while the oranges, lemons, olives, figs, almonds, filberts and English walnuts, command the highest prices in the market.  Peaches, pears, grapes and honey, are already large items in her trade; and her wheat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
135.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>349</PRINTPGNO>
135.sgm:<P>The grade of horses, cattle, swine, sheep and wool, are being brought to a high degree of perfection; for the climate is most salubrious and invigorating.  Her gifts of nature are most bountiful and perfect.  No wonder, then, that the Californian is enthusiastic when speaking of his sublime scenery, salubrious climate and surprising products.</P>
135.sgm:<P>But I must no longer dwell upon my theme, nor tell of the fruitful Fresno lands, redeemed from savage barbarity.  Those scenes of beauteous enchantment I leave to those who may remain to enjoy them.  And yet-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>El Capitan, I turn to gaze upon thy lofty brow,<LB>With reverent yearnings to thy Maker bow.<LB>But now farewell, Yosemite;<LB>If thou appearest not again in sight,<LB>Thou'lt come, I know, in life's extremity<LB>While passing into realms of light.</HI>
135.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
136.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-136</TITLE>
136.sgm:<TITLE>Memories; my seventy-two years in the romantic county of Yuba, California, by W.T. Ellis; with an introduction by Richard Belcher: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
136.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
136.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
136.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
136.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
136.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
136.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>39-6908</LCCN>
136.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
136.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 127508</COPYRIGHT>
136.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P><illus entity="a136-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>MEMORIES</P>
136.sgm:<P>MY SEVENTY-TWO YEARS IN THE</P>
136.sgm:<P>ROMANTIC COUNTY</P>
136.sgm:<P>OF YUBA</P>
136.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA</P>
136.sgm:<P>BY</P>
136.sgm:<P>W. T. ELLIS</P>
136.sgm:<P>WITH AN INTRODUCTION<LB>BY RICHARD BELCHER</P>
136.sgm:<P>EUGENE: THE UNIVERSITY OF OREGON</P>
136.sgm:<P>PRINTED BY JOHN HENRY NASH</P>
136.sgm:<P>1939</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Copyright, 1939, by</HI>
136.sgm:<P>W. T. Ellis, Marysville</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>DEDICATED TO</P>
136.sgm:<P>MY OLD HOME TOWN</P>
136.sgm:<P>MARYSVILLE</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>PREFACE<HSEP>xi<LB>INTRODUCTION Mr. Richard Belcher, Vice-President, State Bar of California<HSEP>xiii<LB>CHAPTER I  Family History and Random Boyhood Memories<HSEP>1<LB>II  Education<HSEP>10<LB>III  Our Family Chinese Cook, Yuen Yeck Bow (Jack Ellis)<HSEP>12<LB>IV  Vacations<HSEP>13<LB>V  Early Days of Gambling in Marysville<HSEP>18<LB>VI  How I was Cured of Gambling<HSEP>20<LB>VII  The City of Marysville in Early Days<HSEP>22<LB>VIII  Judge Stephen J. Field<HSEP>26<LB>IX  Gold Dust Shipments from Marysville<HSEP>30<LB>X  Religion in Marysville in Early Days and Schools<HSEP>30<LB>XI  Early Day Theatrical Amusements in Marysville<HSEP>32<LB>XII  The Marysville Bar in Early Days<HSEP>34<LB>XIII  Early Day Railroads, Steamboats and Stages<HSEP>39<LB>XIV  Fire Departments of Early Days<HSEP>40<LB>XV  List of Hotels in the County of Yuba in 1858 Outside of The City of Marysville<HSEP>41<LB>XVI  Stage Lines Running from Marysville, in 1861<HSEP>42<LB>XVII  Early Day Newspapers<HSEP>43<LB>XVIII  Mining in the Streets of Marysville Prohibited<HSEP>44<LB>XIX  A Labor Strike in 1853<HSEP>46<LB>XX  State Reform School in Yuba County<HSEP>46<LB>XXI  A Duel in Marysville with my Two Uncles as Seconds<HSEP>47<LB>XXII  Yuba County's English Lord<HSEP>48<LB>XXIII  Black Bart, Stage Robber<HSEP>50<LB>XXIV  Historic Yuba Dam<HSEP>52<LB>XXV  Business Experience<HSEP>54<LB>XXVI  Experience as a Traveling Salesman<HSEP>57</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>XXVII  Experience with the Lodge of E Clampus Vitus<HSEP>64<LB>XXVIII  Orchard and Vineyard Experience<HSEP>66<LB>XXIX  System of New Year's Calls<HSEP>67<LB>XXX  Skating on Ellis Lake<HSEP>68<LB>XXXI  Four Homes I Have Lived In<HSEP>69<LB>XXXII  Peter Jackson, World's Champion Heavy-Weight Prize Fighter<HSEP>71<LB>XXXIII  Chinese Tong Wars<HSEP>72<LB>XXXIV  Saturday Night and Sunday Too Club<HSEP>74<LB>XXXV  A Typical Mountain Fourth of July Celebration<HSEP>74<LB>XXXVI  A Fourth of July Celebration in 1895<HSEP>76<LB>XXXVII  Dove Stews at Shelton Grove<HSEP> 77<LB>XXXVIII  Attempted Invasion of the City by Caterpillars<HSEP>78<LB>XXXIX  The Failure of the English Dam and Comments on Other Dams<HSEP>79<LB>XL  Some Record Snowfalls in the Sierras<HSEP>82<LB>XLI  San Francisco Earthquake and Fire<HSEP>84<LB>XLII  Military Experiences and the Debs' Strike<HSEP>87<LB>XLIII  Liberty Loan Drives<HSEP>91<LB>XLIV  Navigation on the Feather and Yuba Rivers<HSEP>91<LB>XLV  Dredging Feather River for Navigation<HSEP>95<LB>XLVI  Experience as a County Supervisor, First Time<HSEP>96<LB>XLVII  Experiences with James D. Stewart<HSEP>98<LB>XLVIII  Experience with L. L. Robinson, President of the North Bloomfield Mine<HSEP>105<LB>XLIX  My Warning to Professor G. K. Gilbert<HSEP>107<LB>L  Ellis Lake<HSEP>108<LB>LI  A Big Fire Loss<HSEP>113<LB>LII  Trustee for Bondsmen<HSEP>115<LB>LIII  President District Agricultural Fair<HSEP>117<LB>LIV  A. C. Bingham<HSEP>118<LB>LV  First Campaign for Mayor and Defeat<HSEP>121<LB>LVI  Elected Mayor, First Term<HSEP>123<LB>LVII  Elected Mayor, Second Term<HSEP>130<LB>LVIII  Marysville Levee Commission<HSEP>132<LB>LIX  Levee Foreman<HSEP>133<LB>LX  President Hallwood Irrigation Company<HSEP>134<LB>LXI  Amusing Experience in a Federal Court<HSEP>136<LB>LXII  The Great Floods of the Winter of 1861-62<HSEP>139</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>LXIII  Flood of 1875<HSEP>146<LB>LXIV  Flood of 1881<HSEP>148<LB>LXV  Flood of 1904<HSEP>148<LB>LXVI  Flood of 1907<HSEP>151<LB>LXVII  Flood of 1909<HSEP>157<LB>LXVIII  Flood of 1928<HSEP>158<LB>LXIX  Presented with a Service Medal<HSEP>160<LB>LXX  A Contest with Henry Hazelbush<HSEP>161<LB>LXXI  The "Eccentric" Flood of 1937<HSEP>163<LB>LXXII  Criticisms of My Management<HSEP>174<LB>LXXIII  Artificial Channel Alterations Near Marysville<HSEP>179<LB>LXXIV  Monies Raised by Taxation for Marysville Levee System<HSEP>185<LB>LXXV  Outside Monies Which Have Been Raised by the Levee Commission for the Benefit of the City's Levees<HSEP>188<LB>LXXVI  Manner in Which the Marysville Levee was Raised and Strengthened after the 1907 Flood<HSEP>192<LB>LXXVII  A $200 Investment Which Paid The City Big Dividends<HSEP>198<LB>LXXVIII  River Gauges at Different Places<HSEP>199<LB>LXXIX  High Water Readings of the Yuba River at the "D" Street Bridge, Marysville<HSEP>203<LB>LXXX  Record of Low Water Readings of the Yuba River at the "D" Street Bridge, at Marysville<HSEP>204<LB>LXXXI  Zero Reading on D Street Gauge<HSEP>206<LB>LXXXII  Gauges on Marysville Levee System<HSEP>206<LB>LXXXIII  Water Pressure<HSEP>207<LB>LXXXIV  Agitation for New Levee Commissioners<HSEP>208<LB>LXXXV  Agitation to Widen the River at the D Street Bridge and Replace with a New Bridge at Simpson Lane<HSEP>209<LB>LXXXVI  Why Our Present High Water Mark of 24 feet at Marysville will be Exceeded at Some Future Flood<HSEP>212<LB>LXXXVII  Early Day Suggested Plans for Flood Control and First Reclamation Board Act<HSEP>215<LB>LXXXVIII  Seasonal Weather Variations and Rainfall Records<HSEP>218<LB>LXXXIX  How I Lost an Opportunity to be Sent to State Prison<HSEP>221<LB>XC  First Training Walls, Above and Below, from Daguerre Point<HSEP>224<LB>XCI  Construction of Two Parallel 750 Foot Channels Down Stream from Daguerre Point<HSEP>227</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>XCII  Benefits of Dredge Mining on Yuba River<HSEP>230<LB>XCIII  Right of Way Agent for Western Pacific Railroad<HSEP>232<LB>XCIV  State Reclamation Board<HSEP>235<LB>XCV  Congressman Kent's Public Hearing at Marysville, November 9th, 1915<HSEP>238<LB>XCVI  How I Came to Leave the Reclamation Board<HSEP>256<LB>XCVII  The Attempted Resurrection of Hydraulic Mining in 1927<HSEP>259<LB>XCVIII  Discussions Before the Commonwealth Club<HSEP>266<LB>XCIX  Final Action on the Seawell Bill<HSEP>267<LB>C  James Stewart's Threatened Referendum<HSEP>269<LB>CI  Water Conservation Project Referendum Election in December 1933<HSEP>282<LB>CII  Meeting of Hydraulic Miners Association in Marysville<HSEP>286<LB>CIII  If the Hydraulic Mining Debris Dam is Constructed Near Smartsville, Will the Charge for Storage Repay the Government for its Investment and Can the Mines Afford to Pay the Storage Charge<HSEP>288<LB>CIV  My First and Only Law Suit<HSEP>290<LB>CV  Committee of Five<HSEP>293<LB>CVI  Is the Flood Control Plan Designed to Safely Control Any Floods Which May Occur?<HSEP>297<LB>CVII  Yuba County<HSEP>299<LB>CVIII  Marysville as a Business Town<HSEP>301<LB>CIX  Days of Forty-Nine Celebration<HSEP>302<LB>CX  Just Some Warnings for the Future<HSEP>303<LB>CXI  Keeping Cool and How to Grow Old Gracefully<HSEP>304<LB>CXII  Conclusion<HSEP>306</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>List of Illustrations</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>The Author, W. T. Ellis<HSEP>FRONTISPIECE<LB>The Author's Father and Mother<HSEP>4<LB>Four of My Mother's Lady Friends<HSEP>5<LB>The Author's Oldest Sister with Indian Nursemaid<HSEP>8<LB>The Author in 1875<HSEP>9<LB>Chinese Cook for W. T. Ellis Sr., Yuen Yeck Bow<HSEP>12<LB>Tom Jones, English Hostler for W. T. Ellis Sr.<HSEP>13<LB>View of Marysville From an Old Engraving Made in 1856<HSEP>22<LB>Yuba County Court House, Erected in 1856<HSEP>23<LB>St. Joseph's Church, Erected in 1856<HSEP>30<LB>St. John's Episcopal Church, Erected in 1855<HSEP>31<LB>Presbyterian Church, Erected in 1855<HSEP>32<LB>Convent of Notre Dame, Founded in 1856<HSEP>33<LB>Stephen J. Field, First Alcalde of Marysville<HSEP>34<LB>Belcher Brothers, Attorneys at Law, Established in Marysville 1856<HSEP>35<LB>Charles E. DeLong, Member of Marysville Bar 1857-63<HSEP>36<LB>William Walker, "The Gray-Eyed Man of Destiny"<HSEP>37<LB>Timbuctoo Rescue Hose Company No. 1<HSEP>40<LB>Old Miners' High Suspension Flume Constructed in Early Days Over Brandy Gulch<HSEP>41<LB>The California Diggins<HSEP>42<LB>The Main Street of Timbuctoo, Yuba County<HSEP>43<LB>Judge Thomas B. Reardan<HSEP>48<LB>Judge Gordon N. Mott<HSEP>49<LB>Residence Erected by John C. Fall in 1855<HSEP>68<LB>Residence Built in 1851 by J. M. Ramirez, One of the Founders of Marysville<HSEP>69<LB>Residence of W. T. Ellis Senior, Erected in 1855<HSEP>70<LB>Residence Erected by Warren P. Miller in 1856<HSEP>71</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The Author, 1887.  When President of "The Saturday Night and Sunday Too Club"<HSEP>74<LB>Menu of "Saturday Night and Sunday Too Club"<HSEP>75<LB>The "Dining Room" at Shelton's Grove 1898<HSEP>78<LB>The "Kitchen" at Shelton's Grove 1898<HSEP>79<LB>Large Cloth Sign, on the Wall of the Partially Destroyed "Ellis Block"<HSEP>114<LB>Largest Gold Dredger in the World<HSEP>115<LB>A. C. Bingham, 1847-1917<HSEP>118<LB>The Author, When Appointed to State Reclamation Board in 1912<HSEP>119<LB>W. T. Ellis Senior, 1826-1913<HSEP>124<LB>The Author, When First Elected Mayor in 1894<HSEP>125<LB>Flood of March 19th, 1907<HSEP>152<LB>Flood of January 16th, 1909<HSEP>153<LB>Getting Ready for the Coming Flood of January 16th, 1909<HSEP>156<LB>Flood of March 1907<HSEP>157<LB>Concrete Dam, Constructed With Federal Funds, Destroyed by Flood in 1907<HSEP>158<LB>Flood of March 27th, 1928<HSEP>159<LB>Days of '49 Celebration in Marysville<HSEP>302<LB>Ellis Lake<HSEP>303</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>ABOUT <HI REND="italics">nine months ago, my friend Frank Nickey, loaned me a book to read, saying, "Here is a book which may interest you, it has considerable to say about Marysville in early days."  The book was entitled</HI>
136.sgm:, MY SEVENTY YEARS IN CALIFORNIA, <HI REND="italics">the author, being Mr. J. A. Graves, President of the Farmers and Mechanics Bank in Los Angeles.  Mr. Graves told of his experiences in California, his family having lived at various places in the State, at one time in Marysville, and he mentioned many old pioneer residents of Marysville, many of whom I had known personally.  The thought came to me, why not a book entitled my</HI>
136.sgm: SEVENTY-TWO YEARS IN YUBA COUNTY, <HI REND="italics">particularly with the idea of embodying a record of a lot of accumulated data in connection with flood control, levee construction, hydraulic mining litigation, river records, etc., a large amount of which I have been accumulating in my office for many years and most of which, I was quite confident, no one but myself has</HI>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">There is a saying, that, "when a person gets old, he lives in the past," and as a result of this "thought," for the last nine months, I have been living in the past and at odd times have been "punching out" on my typewriter, my "memories," as contained herein.  It has been a comparatively easy task for the reason that, besides having this</HI>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<HI REND="italics">accumulated data, mentioned above, I have been one of those "cranks" who keeps a "scrap book"; in fact, I have five large scrap books, containing clippings, etc., of local interest, and extending over a period of fifty years and, in addition, I have two other books of photographs of various flood pictures, etc., all of which make for a rather condensed "history" of interesting local events.  In addition to the above, I have accumulated throughout the years, a mass of reports relating primarily to floods, their effects, and measures taken for their control, not only on the rivers of California, but of other States in the Union and of various rivers of Europe and Asia as well, but such matters, while they have been interesting to me, might be of little interest to others, possibly none, so I have not included any such data.  After having completed the following (112) chapters, I was tempted to add nineteen other chapters, mainly on other local past events, all of record but, no doubt, either forgotten or possibly never heard of by many.  However, time mellows many things and sometimes it is best to "forget and forgive," so I resisted the impulse and have endeavored to chronicle only those things which I felt might prove of interest and worth perpetuating in this book; as it is, possibly I may have "stepped on the toes" of some, but if so, it has been without malice and has been done only with the idea of recording events, as they have occurred</HI>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>W. T. ELLIS <HI REND="italics">and I were born within a block and a half and a year and a half of each other and our friendship has existed through life, personally and professionally.  Many of the incidents referred to by him are within my knowledge</HI>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">It has been unfortunate that the early settlers in California have not more frequently recorded their experiences as history could glean from such records many important facts.  This book contains material of such sort</HI>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The personal experiences of a young man of ample means are not only interesting as characteristic of a class, but are amusing as related and, of course for me, make entertaining reading, but the all important value of this book is embraced in the experiences of the author in the past forty years with reference to the river and levee conditions of the State</HI>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">No man of whom I know, whether layman or engineer, has the same knowledge of, or the records which Mr. Ellis has of flood conditions and levees constructed during that period.  He has become an authority constantly consulted by engineers and those interested in the subject.  His information as set forth in this book and the records in his office are invaluable and will be of inestimable worth to his successor</HI>
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136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Situated, as it is, at the confluence of the Yuba and Feather Rivers, both rapidly rising streams, Marysville has had to contend with a serious water problem, and it had to, and has, protected itself by levees which rank with the dykes of Holland.  As a result, as shown in the book, the last flood in the city was in 1875.  The citizens then became convinced that if the town were to survive and their property be kept safe, it was necessary to take drastic action.  A bill was drawn by a lawyer whom I have always looked up to and respected as one of the great lawyers of the State, and was passed by the Legislature, which gave to the Levee Commission of Marysville unique and all embracing powers to meet emergencies in any way which it saw fit.  The Levee Commission appointed under that bill was of the highest type of citizen and has so continued, free of politics, until the present time</HI>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">It was on this Commission and as its Manager, that Mr. Ellis has acted for the past forty years, carrying on, extending and improving the work done by his predecessors.  Today the City is, in my opinion, in an impregnable position</HI>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">One does not call a doctor until one is ill, nor does one appreciate the work done by doctors unless he has occasion to consult with them.  Such a condition exists in Marysville; only when the water rises against the levee do new-comers seek assurance of the safety of the city, from Mr. Ellis.  The old-timers know that only in the most extreme case could there, or would there be any danger here.  In time of storm, and after the drop of the rivers, the author of this book is admittedly the City's first citizen</HI>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Having spent four decades in this work, with practically no</HI>
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136.sgm:<HI REND="italics">compensation, the greatest honor is due him for the successful pursuit of a fad which has contributed to the benefit of his home city</HI>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This book should remain as a text-book for all persons interested in flood conditions in the Sacramento Valley</HI>
136.sgm:<P>RICHARD BELCHER.</P>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dated: February 1, 1938</HI>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I<LB>Family History and Random Boyhood Memories</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>MY FATHER, William Turner Ellis, was born on October 14, 1826 on a plantation near Mt. Auburn, Maryland and spent his youth there.  Being born "south of the Mason &amp; Dixon line," he was a "Southerner" and a Democrat.  The plantation was quite a large one and largely operated by slave labor; he received his education at Cincinnati, Ohio.  The discovery of gold in California in 1849 proved an attraction which he could not resist and in 1852 took passage on a clipper ship for Panama, crossed the Isthmus and took passage on another ship for San Francisco.  On the voyage he became acquainted with another young man named David E. Knight; they became life long friends and business associates in various enterprises and both took an active part in the building up of Marysville for the balance of their lives; father died in 1913 at the age of 87 years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Father, when he first arrived in California, tried his hand at mining for a couple of years, then came to Marysville, where his friend Knight had located; father then took a position as head clerk for John C. Fall &amp; Company which firm was doing a very large business in general merchandise in a two story brick building, situated on the bank of the Yuba River at what would now be the corner of First and Willow Streets, in Lot 1, of Block 1, Range F; this site is now underneath the present City levee there.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Directly across the street, on First Street, was situated the Merchants Hotel, a large three story brick structure; the old official City map made in 1856 shows a picture of this Hotel.  The site of the hotel was approximately where the present City sewage plant is now located.  At that time, the ground level there was about ten feet lower than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>My mother, Lizzie Huntington, with three other sisters and a brother, came from Zanesville, Ohio to California, also via the Isthmus and reached Marysville in 1859.  It was at this Merchants Hotel that my father and mother first met and were married on December 12, 1860; one of the sisters, Abbie Huntington married Judge T. B. Reardan; another sister, Amelia Huntington married Judge Gordon N. Mott, while the other sister Sarah Huntington lived with my father and mother.  After my mother died on December 31, 1878, she married my father on May 12, 1886, but to me and my sisters she always remained "Aunt Sallie."  All these people made their homes in Marysville.  In 1863 father purchased from Elisha Ransome for the sum of only $2800 the two-story brick residence situated at the northwest corner of D and Eighth Streets and it remained the family home for the next 57 years; I was born there on March 17, 1866 as was my younger sister Hope on August 9, 1871, my elder sister having been born on October 9, 1861 in the Merchants Hotel.  Across the street from this old home was situated a small frame cottage, the lumber for which "came around The Horn" and in this small cottage resided Judge Stephen J. Field, first Alcalde (Mayor) of Marysville and in later years Associate Justice of the United States Supreme Court.  This house is now situated at about C and 18th Streets.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Judge Field and my uncle Judge Mott were great friends and often indulged in the old California indoor sport of playing poker.  Some times, when funds were a little low with which to gamble, each owning quite a number of vacant City lots, they would use these lots for "stakes" and many of the old City abstracts will show transfers from G. N. Mott to Stephen J. Field and very rarely, Stephen J. Field to Gordon N. Mott, indicating that Field was the better poker player, I assume.  Mott was a District Federal Judge, and as was the custom in those days, traveled from place to place, holding Court.  On one of these trips, the stage was attacked by Indians on horseback, armed with bows and arrows; the driver let the four horses run wild in an effort to escape, but was struck with an arrow; Mott was the only passenger in the coach and to render the driver assistance, climbed up to the driver's seat, got the driver in the "boot" of the stage and, supporting him between his knees, drove to safety to the next stage station, the driver being dead on arrival.  Mark Twain in his book entitled "Roughing It," describes this occurrence.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mott had three sons and one daughter; the younger son, my cousin Edward Marshall Mott, was highly educated, could speak Latin almost as well as English and always wanted to be an actor.  When Field became Associate Justice of the United States Supreme Court, he took Edward Mott back with him to Washington, D.C. and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>In 1857, John C. Fall failed in business, largely because of extending too much credit, and my father took over the business in the same store and remained in business there until about 1862 when he purchased the large brick store building on First Street, between D and High Streets, the flood of 1862 causing him to seek a location on higher ground.  At that time this was a one-story brick building and considered fireproof from the outside.  The outside walls were exceedingly large and substantial, every window and door being double; the inside windows and doors were of glass while all the outside doors were of iron.  The roof was a wooden hand split sugar pine shake roof, but under the roof was a heavy wooden flooring on which was a layer of about six inches of sand and on top a layer of bricks, so that the roof might catch fire and be destroyed but could not reach the interior of the building.  In later years, he placed a second brick story on the building, occupying both floors for his business, which was conducted there, a record of fifty-seven years of continuous business.  At one time, father had a branch store also in Winnemucca, Nevada when mining was lively in that section.  He shipped his goods by teams and also by pack mule teams, crossing the Sierras by way of the old Hennesee Pass route, not only to Winnemucca but to other points such as Carson City, Virginia City and other State of Nevada points.  He was also a partner with James Trayner in a flour mill, situated at about F and Second Streets, but the flood of 1875 ruined contents and the building and, being a total loss, it was never opened again.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Father never was much interested in politics although he was elected County Treasurer in 1875 and served two terms, it being the practice in those days to have some well known business man Treasurer, the deputy really doing all the work.  His deputy was J. F. Eastman.  The State collected state taxes in those days and I remember several times going to Sacramento with father and Eastman to "settle with the State," the coin being carried in a large bag and father, Eastman and another man, all heavily armed, going down by train.  Father was also a member of the City Council later on.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Father was always a great lover of good horses and saw that they were well cared for.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>This barn at home had a fancy cupola on top of the roof, with sloping slats on its four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE AUTHOR'S FATHER AND MOTHER TAKEN AT THE TIME OF THEIR MARRIAGE, DECEMBER 12TH, 1860</P>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FOUR OF MY MOTHER'S LADY FRIENDS THESE PICTURES TAKEN AT RANDOM FROM AN OLD ALBUM WITH MANY SIMILAR PICTURES WHICH BELONGED TO HER</P>
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136.sgm:<P>Shortly after I was born, for a nurse girl to look after my elder sister and myself, we had an Indian girl named Rose, who was purchased by father for $500.  It appears that two miners, having been quite successful in mining, stole this young girl from her parents; one of the men being married, with a wife and children in San Francisco contemplated having the Indian girl for a nursemaid.  This miner, however, when he reached Marysville got into a gambling game, lost all his gold dust and looked about for some one to whom he could "sell" the girl and father was the one who obtained her.  This girl Rose would never sleep in a bed, she would roll up in a blanket and sleep on the floor at the head of a stairway, near our room; she could not stand civilization I guess, for when she had been in the family for about ten years she contracted tuberculosis and died after being ill for about three years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>My oldest sister and myself had a small wagon, made to order by a well known blacksmith and wagon maker by the name of Samuel Bradley.  To this wagon we had hitched a team of trained goats and the two of us used to drive that rig all over town and in the open area, north of 8th Street and west of E Street, which in those days was called "the plains," there being at that time no streets laid out and about a dozen scattered small residences with a large round brick powder house on what is now Motor Square; this area is now a closely built up residential section.  We had these goats for several years and when they died, father had the wagon fitted with shafts and to it we hitched a pet deer, after it had reached some size.  It was a buck deer and after it had grown some good sized horns it ceased to be a "pet" and one day, after having attacked me and "horning" me good and plenty, we had venison steaks for a few days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When my sister and myself got older, we were given ponies and, later on, fine riding horses; we both spent lots of time horseback riding.  In those days, every summer, the family would go to San Francisco for a vacation for a couple of months; we always stopped at the old Occidental Hotel on Montgomery Street.  It was the leading hotel in those days and I have two vivid recollections of the hotel; one was the fleas, and in San Francisco those days fleas were abundant everywhere.  The other recollection was of being ill with scarlet fever; we had been assigned rooms in which Joseph D. Grant of San Francisco had been ill with scarlet fever and, as fumigation was not practiced in those days, I contracted the illness.  Diagonally across the street was the well known Russ House and in one of the stores on the ground floor was situated a toy shop; when I was convalescent, father made an arrangement with this toy store to furnish me a new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>After the Civil War, almost every one took a great interest in politics, and I remember, as a boy, speeches, pro and con, by nominees for election; a speech always drew a large crowd, the speakers were always quite rabid and the "bloody flag" was dwelt upon and many a fist fight resulted as the war was still fresh in the minds of every one and every man was either an "out in out" Democrat or Republican, which simply meant that he had been a sympathizer of the "South" or the "North."  At Presidential rallies both parties would try to outdo each other with their torchlight parades, bonfires on D Street, usually at 2nd and 3rd Streets, and "spell-binders" making speeches, on platforms, constructed usually in the middle of the street at 2nd and D Streets.  The streets, sidewalks and the balconies in front of the buildings would be crowded with people.  At the head of a Republican procession, generally one large man, holding aloft a long pole with a rooster, which was supposed to crow; while at the head of the other procession would generally be another man with a long pole, on top of which would be suspended a man's white shirt, daubed with red paint and typifying the "bloody shirt."  Bands would play and we young kids played no favorites, every procession looked good to us and the boys would vie for the "honor" of walking in front of and assisting in holding up the drummer's big bass drum; if a lad succeeded in this honor and chanced to be in the wrong procession and his father found it out, that kid was in for a good "licking" by his dad.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Later on, the Denis Kearney riots commenced to take place with the slogan, "The Chinese must go, Denis Kearney says so."  This agitation started in San Francisco and spread all over the State to a large extent.  The poor inoffensive Chinese had a hard time of it; small boys, influenced by the attitude of their parents in many cases, would steal and scatter vegetables and laundry which the Chinese might be carrying in two large baskets, suspended on each end of a long flexible flattened pole, the latter swung across one shoulder; the loads which were carried with a swinging motion in this way were remarkable.  Other "amusements" of the boys would be to watch a chance to tie two Chinese queues (called pigtails) together when unsuspected; another amusement of the boys was to throw stones at the Chinese and, if at times a rock "landed" properly,the Chinaman knew he had no redress.  My father cautioned me never to do this, but one day I was playing marbles with several boys near our home when a Chinaman happened by; the other boys commenced to throw rocks at him which all missed; on the spur of the moment, to show the other boys that they were poor marksmen, I threw a rock which struck the Chinaman on the side of his cheek.  This Chinaman had more spunk than others of his race and started after me; I ran across the street to our home and dashed in the back door, the Chinaman following me right into the house; unfortunately for me, father happened to be home; he asked the Chinaman what was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>The Chinese did a lot of mining, generally taking over claims which the white men abandoned; they controlled the vegetable and laundry business and had several large mercantile stores on First Street.  Chinese were used almost exclusively for common labor by the railroad company and for levee building; when levee building was first started, by William H. Parks (father of our local Fred Parks), in what was then called the Sutter tule basin (now the Armour Reclamation District), Mr. Parks used Chinese exclusively at first to build levees, the tools being shovels and wheelbarrows.  There was a large Chinese population in Marysville, several very large stores with large stocks of Chinese goods, Hong Wo &amp; Co. being the largest concern, situated at 314 First Street.  In later years Sun Yet Sin hatched his plans to make a Republic of China there, which later on he succeeded in doing and became the first President of the Chinese Republic; his body is now residing in a very large and elaborate mausoleum (or shrine) in China, costing several million dollars.</P>
136.sgm:<P>On "China New Year's Day," there was always a large celebration in Chinatown; many whites would call at the various stores and were always given presents as Chinese are always particularly liberal on that day.  The air would be filled with the bursting of long strings of firecrackers to "drive away the devil."  Every Chinaman made it a point to have all his debts paid on that day; otherwise they considered it would be bad luck to start a new year with unpaid debts.</P>
136.sgm:<P>My father did a large business with the Chinese and extended them lots of credit and we never, as far as I can remember, ever lost a bill.  There was at that time a Chinaman by the name of Len Noy who was a very large operator in raising potatoes near Marysville.  He made plenty of money and had a wife, but decided that he was sufficiently affluent and an important personage to have a second wife with "little feet" so he went to China and brought back with him a very nice looking young Chinese girl about 20 years of age and with "small feet" which had been placed in that condition by firmly binding the feet with wrappings from an early age; this resulted in the woman being so badly crippled with such small feet that she could barely walk, but it was a sign of great beauty and attractiveness and it was notice to his countrymen of the husband's great affluence and importance.  Len Noy had a good home on one of his ranch properties and installed his new wife therein, his first wife becoming second in importance and a servant to the first wife and perfectly satisfied in her new lowly position.  Len Noy informed every one that he had paid $3000 for his new wife.  Then followed several disastrous years for Len Noy; his potato crops were largely failures because of insufficient moisture, pests of different kinds, etc.  My father had extended him credit to the extent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>New Year's day celebration was always followed in the next month with the Chinese "Bomb Day," when bombs were shot up in the air with numbered tags attached and the one who caught the wicker ring with the attached tag when it descended to the ground was entitled to call for and retain for one year a prize screen which was expected to bring good luck to the holder for that year.  Great crowds would congregate to witness the scramble for possession of the wicker rings, when they were shot up in the air, particularly for the big prize one, and in those days I have witnessed over 150 Chinese pull and haul and tug for over an hour, trying to get possession of this prize, their clothes torn to ribbons, their hands and arms scratched and bloody, until finally some one of them would be successful, with the aid of his friends, to escape and run as fast as he could to the Joss House where the prize would be awarded him.  Then would follow processions and banquets where large roasted hogs, "cooked to a turn," would be the piece de resistance.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was always a mystery to our bookkeeper Charles Sawtell and myself where father spent his "loose change."  All the supplies for the kitchen at home were always purchased by our old Chinese cook Jack; at the end of each month he would bring all his bills to the office and either the bookkeeper or myself would give him the money to pay them.  All the other bills for the house or family, for clothes, etc., would be mailed to us and checked up and be paid by check, so father really paid no bills himself; nevertheless, about every other day, he would go to the safe, take out a $20 roll of 50&cent; pieces and put it in his pocket and charge himself with the amount.  The fact of the matter was that this spending money went partially for a certain number of whiskey punches each day, which in those days cost ten cents, and, as he always had the habit of buying his drink and walking out, never loitering about saloons, this did not cost much; he smoked about fifteen cigars each day of the "3 for a half" variety, and almost every afternoon he would indulge in a game of pinochle for an hour or so; the balance of the money he gave away to various old timers who were "down and out" and were constantly asking for money "for a meal."  One day he passed out some money to several of these old fellows at the same time for meals and shortly afterwards he went in a saloon and found them all lined up before the bar, enjoying drinks at his expense in place of meals; he got peeved and had a large number of tickets printed "Good for a 25&cent; meal at any restaurant, W. T. Ellis," and commenced to pass them out in place of money.  This appeared to work fairly well for a few months until one month there were several hundred of these tickets brought to the office to be cashed; an investigation disclosed that some unknown person had had printed a copy of his tickets, had disposed of them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE AUTHOR'S OLDEST SISTER, MARIAN WITH INDIAN GIRL NURSEMAID ROSE PICTURE TAKEN ABOUT 1869</P>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE AUTHOR IN 1875, THE LAST TIME THE CITY OF MARYSVILLE WAS FLOODED</P>
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136.sgm:<P>One day, a young man came to the store and said he had a mining property in the mountains which he was going to open up and wanted to lay in a lot of supplies.  One of the clerks proceeded to take his order, which was quite a large one; father glanced over the list of goods which had been ordered, came to the conclusion that it was not a well balanced order for a mine and became suspicious and when the young man asked if he would cash a small check, that convinced him that the young fellow was a crook; he immediately called the police and had him arrested; he was taken to the City jail and locked up but soon convinced the police that he was what he was representing himself to be and was released and purchased his goods elsewhere.  He himself it appears had taken the matter good naturedly but shortly afterwards his father, learning of his son's experience, caused a suit to be commenced against father for $5000 for false imprisonment.  A date for the trial was set, father engaged a well known attorney, Grove L. Johnson, of Sacramento to represent him; in the meantime, he was given a lot of good natured joshing by his friends and when the day for the trial came around, much to the objections of his attorney, who discovered that father had not sworn out any warrant for the man's arrest, and, through some neglect, the police docket did not even have the man's name or any charge placed against him, the attorney claimed that he was sure he could beat the case.  Father, however, insisted upon settling the case without a trial.  It cost him $3500 for the injured feelings of the young man's father, and he also had to pay his attorney, Mr. Johnson, $500 for his time and trouble in getting ready to defend the case.  That was a very tender subject with him for several years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I owe a great debt to my father because he trained me in practical ways and made me commence at the foot of the ladder and work up.  He often said, "Use your head, Bill; make up your mind that what you are about to do is the right thing to do and never go off half cocked."  Another thing he insisted upon was punctuality; "If you make an engagement for 2:00 o'clock, that means 2:00 o'clock and not 2:05 o'clock."  As for drinking, and there was plenty in those days, he told me, "Learn how to hold your liquor, Bill, and be as moderate as possible for your own good and always remember that you are a gentleman."</P>
136.sgm:<P>I never knew of father being sick a day of his life; it was only some six months before he died, at the age of 87, that he commenced to show signs of the "machinery wearing out" and then never made any complaint except to remark that he "didn't feel just right"; he took to bed about a week before he died and showed no sign that he realized his condition until about three days before the end, when one day, calling me to his side, he whispered to me, "Billy, I am a goner," an old early day California expression.</P>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II<LB>EDUCATION</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>THE first school I ever attended was a private school for small children, situated in the second story of a brick residence where the present Hall of Records is now located.  The teacher was Miss Ella Moody whose parents had a ranch situated on the south side of the Buttes in Sutter County.  I attended her school, I believe, about two years, and then went to another private school which was conducted by Mrs. S. M. Miles, wife of the first Mayor of Marysville.  The school was in the present two-story brick residence situated at 427-8th Street.  Mrs. Miles was a spiritualist and, occasionally, when she was conducting the school classes, she would excuse herself for a short while, saying "that she wanted to talk with her husband for a little while"; (he had been dead for a good many years).  We could hear her "talking" to the Doctor in the next room but of course could not hear his replies, although she told us she could hear them; whether she did or not, she seemed to get a great satisfaction out of her conversations with her deceased husband.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A few years afterwards, I attended the public school which was then situated at the northeast corner of B and 7th Streets, where the State Highway Division headquarters are now located; it was a two-story brick building with two school rooms on each floor.  Only boys went to this school, the girls those days going to the old grammar school, situated at the southwest corner of E and 7th Streets, where is now situated the Christian Science Church.  I will never forget my first day's experience at the public school.  I was "dolled out" with a new store suit, knee pants, leather boots with bright red square of leather on the top front of the boots, white flounced shirt with a wide collar turned back over the coat; I looked, I imagine, like a "little Lord Fauntleroy."  All the other boys were dressed in old coats and overalls; they looked "rough" and I soon found that they were "rough" because at recess time one of the boys by the name of Johnnie Lopez was selected to "dress me down"; a ring was formed by all the other boys and Lopez first made a jerk at my collar and tore that off; he then boxed my ears and followed with a good kick on my nice new boots; by that time I was "crying mad" and "we went to it"; he got me down in the dirt and gave me a "whale of a licking" and I still have a slight dent on the end of my nose in his attempt "to flatten it all over my face" as he told me.  The teachers paid no attention to these little "diversions" but when I went home, with my new clothes badly damaged, I asked for, and obtained, permission to dress like the other boys and was then accepted "as one of the gang" after that.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The Superintendent of Schools those days was Mr. T. H. Steel (father of our present Superior Court Judge, Mr. Warren Steel).  When Mr. Steel was Superintendent, he used to visit the school classes and we scholars were always "on edge" when he so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Two of the teachers were named Babcock; they were brothers and one was quite deaf.  The boys, sitting close to the wall in the deaf teacher's room which separated the two class rooms, would at times kick against the partition wall; this would bring in the other Babcock to complain to his brother, who would maintain that his boys were not doing so, "that he did not hear them doing so"; this happened several times and one day, the two Babcocks themselves "got into a scrap," to the unbounded amusement and glee of the scholars.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Later on, changes were made and boys and girls went to school together and I advanced to the senior class of the Grammar School at E and 7th Streets, where Mrs. Emma Hapgood was teacher.  When the boys and girls started going to the same school, it took some time for the boys to get "tamed down," particularly with a woman teacher, but Mrs. Hapgood was equal to the task; she was an excellent teacher and a fine motherly woman but a strict disciplinarian when necessity required and a very large and powerfully built woman.  This latter fact Godfrey Carden and I found out one day, when we placed on top of the large hot stove in the school room the contents of a small can of cayenne pepper during school hours, and, when she charged Carden and myself with being the guilty ones; admitting our guilt, she grabbed us each in turn by our coat collars, hauled us out of our seats over the school desks and gave us a licking; after that exhibition of her strength, all the boys were more circumspect.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I then advanced to the junior class of the High School, on the second floor of the same school building at 7th and E Streets.  In those days there were the Junior, Middle and Senior classes; the Principal was Professor Hill, and afterwards Professor Kleeberger.  There was generally a large junior class, but many scholars did not advance to the two higher classes as many of the boys and girls then went to work.  When I graduated from the Senior Class in the third year, the class consisted of three girls, Anna McKenney, Laura Bordwell and Della Parks, and myself, the only boy.  Anna McKenney was rated the brightest scholar in the High School and I well remember that I would not have passed the written examination for graduation had it not been for the fact that Anna sat at the next desk to me and surreptitiously gave me the correct answers to some of the written examination questions which I was "stumped on."</P>
136.sgm:<P>That was the extent of my "schooling" as I then went to work in my father's store, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III<LB>Our Family Chinese Cook, Yuen Yeck Bow (Jack Ellis)</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>YUEN Yeck Bow, whom I will refer to herein as "Jack," was one of the swarm of young Chinese who came to California principally to mine for gold but also to work on the construction of railroads, conducting laundry shops, vegetable gardens, etc.  Jack, from his story, first tried mining, then worked on railroad construction, until one day a powder blast resulted in a large rock falling on his head and, as he described it, "he was dead for two days"; presumably, he was unconscious for that length of time, but he always insisted that he had been "dead" and was quite proud of the fact that he had come to life again.  That accident cured him of railroading and he then became a cook for John H. Jewett, the banker, who at that time owned the brick residence at the southwest corner of C and 6th Streets.  Some time afterwards Mr. Jewett and his wife closed the house and took a long trip to Europe and Jack then came to my father to be cook; this was about 1864 and, with the exception of about two years, when he took a trip to China, he stayed with our family until 1913, when my father died.  In other words, he was our family cook for some 49 years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When father died, Jack told me that he wanted to go back to China and spend his last days in the land of his ancestors; he asked permission to take some things in the house back with him and I told him to help himself.  We had four large old fashioned trunks and he selected the smallest one and packed it with various odds and ends, then decided to use the next larger trunk and finally ended up with using the largest trunk.  He then asked me for my father's watch, which he had not worn for years; it was a very fine gold Swiss watch but old fashioned to the extent that it had to be wound with a key, having been made before the "stem winder" had come into vogue.  I brought him the watch and chain, which had been in the office safe for many years but he then asked for the "fancy thing" which was attached to the chain.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This "fancy thing" which he referred to was a Knights Templar Maltese Cross emblem, so I gave that also to him, but for fear it might get him in some trouble, I gave him a letter, stating that the watch, chain and emblem had been given him and that it was his property.  I fixed him up with a good cash present and he departed but not 'till I had given him a good old hug, for we had become very much attached to him and, as a baby, he had watched particularly more over me than my sisters, because I was a boy.  He sailed for the home of his ancestors on June 12, 1913.</P>
136.sgm:<P>About three years later, I received a letter from him (written by some Chinese friend in "pigeon English"), telling me he was getting along all right and also enclosed his photograph and very conspicuous on his vest was the gold chain and the Maltese Cross <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>YUEN YECK BOW BETTER KNOWN AS JACK ELLIS COOK FOR W. T. ELLIS SR. FOR FORTY-NINE YEARS</P>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TOM JONES ENGLISH HOSTLER FOR W. T. ELLIS SR. FOR TWENTY-ONE YEARS</P>
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136.sgm:<P>Jack was quite a character; he was very small and almost every one knew him, especially the children.  He did some marketing himself every day, always carrying a basket, swung on his arm, in which he would carry bananas, or some other fruits and candies; the children knew of this and on his way home he would be coaxed for some of the things in his basket and by the time he reached home, many times the basket would be empty; he had a great fondness for children, but, like all Chinese, favored boys.  He was very faithful and generous to a fault and every Christmas, notwithstanding our protestations, he would give us valuable presents.  One of the most difficult decisions he ever had to make was when the edict went forth that all good Chinese should cut off their queues and let all their hair grow, "American fashion"; he just hated to give up that old "pigtail" of his, but he finally did and then became quite proud of the change.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV<LB>Vacations</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>As I look back over the years, I realize that I have spent but little time on vacations.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When I went to work for my father, employees of any business houses did not expect vacations, either with or without pay, as is the established custom these present times.  To have told "The Boss" in those earlier days that you wanted a vacation was about the same thing as telling him that you were quitting your job, for that was the usual result.  Even Sundays were not full vacation days because many of the business houses kept open Sunday morning until the noon hour and as for week days, the closing hour was 8:00 P.M. with some and 9:00 P.M. with others.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After I had been advanced in the store, I was the one who was really responsible for the movement to have all stores close at 6:00 P.M., among the employees of many of the stores.  We organized rather secretly but the story soon leaked out and for a while there was strenuous opposition by the employers and even the working people made some objections, claiming that as they all worked until 6:00 P.M. they would have no time to trade with the stores closing at the same time as they quit work.  We finally won our point and a few years later also induced most of the stores to remain closed all day on Sundays.  It was then that clerks formed small groups for amusement, the one I belonged to being called "The Saturday Night and Sunday Too Club," which I will tell about in another chapter.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Of course, being the Boss' son, I enjoyed a few more privileges and occasionally took off a couple of days for fishing and hunting and some summers I took vacations of a week or so with others for a mountain trip where fishing and all kinds of game were abundant, the only trouble being that so much time was lost in going and coming wagons and horses.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>When it comes to telling fish stories, I know that, while a man may have a first class reputation for truth and veracity, still, when it comes to his telling about his fishing, it is permissible to be a first class liar; notwithstanding this fact, I am going to tell a fish story.  One day, Green, Biggs, A. L. Brownlee and myself were out fishing on the lake; we were having our usual good luck; Green got about a ten pounder hooked and the rest of us drew in our lines.  This fish was a good fighter and it took some time to gradually draw him close to the boat; when he was about five feet from the boat, he suddenly made another leap in the air, in an effort to shake off the hook, then drove down under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Of course, my brief vacations were not confined to fishing and hunting; as a young man, some forty-five years ago, I managed occasional visits to San Francisco on business and quite naturally pleasure also; those were the days of "Old San Francisco"; one of the popular resorts was Sanquinetti's Restaurant at North Beach, largely patronized by Italians.  If you went out there, particularly on a Saturday or Sunday evening, with your lady friend, "when the going commenced to be good," it was the custom and rule that any man could go to any table where a girl was sitting with her boy friend and take her by the arm and invite her to dance, whether he was acquainted with her or not; if her boy friend objected, it meant a fight.  Late in the evening, when every one was well "organized," they would commence to break up loaves of bread and throw the pieces at one another and at times the air would be filled with flying pieces of bread, some times full loaves; it was just "an old Italian custom."  Those were the days of the well known "French Restaurants," such as "The Pup," "The Poodle Dog," "The Fly Trap," "Marchands," "Zinkands," and others where was served the most excellent food at really very reasonable prices; they were "more refined and decorous" than the North Beach resorts but they all had their "private dining rooms" on the second floor.  "Those were the days of real sport" to be remembered now with many amusing and fond memories.</P>
136.sgm:<P>All the first class barrooms were elaborately furnished, with many wonderful paintings, and there was always a long table presided over by a chef in immaculate white jacket and apron and tall white cap, and on the table was spread a variety of vegetables, fish and invariably a six or seven rib roast, all piping hot and "cooked to a turn."  The customer would possibly order a drink and then pick up a plate and the chef would serve him whatever he desired, with no charge; it was just for the convenience and pleasure of the patrons, but the patrons were of a class who usually had many more than one drink; if a "moocher" commenced to make it a habit to call quite often and buy a ten cent drink and indulge in what was, at least, a 50 cent free lunch, he was politely informed that his room was more appreciated than his company.  Dan Sullivan, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>This chapter is supposed to have to do with "vacations" and brings to mind that the longest vacation and the longest time I ever was away from Marysville at one time was in 1886 for three months.  I got some stomach disorder and was advised a vacation with a sea voyage and a trip to the "Sandwich Islands," as they were generally termed those days, was recommended.  I left shortly after the first of April and was supposed to return about the latter part of May but, for a fact, I did not leave there until the fifth of July; too many attractions and distractions simply prevented my return.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I left for the Islands on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Zelandia</HI>
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136.sgm:<P>To still further show his good feelings, the King gave a large banquet (called a luah); it was a stag affair, and there were many invitations to the local political powers as well as many officers from some American, French and English warships at anchor in the harbor; I was "among those present."  The Palace had a very large banquet hall and every one sat on the floor in rows, "tailor fashion" and just as an appetizer, every one had a quart of imported French champagne, set in front of him; well, the reader can guess the finish.  When the "going was good," the King called in about fifteen of his private hula dancers to entertain us; they were professionals, trained from childhood up and danced only for the King and his guests and were dressed mainly in wreaths and smiles.  Two days later, when I awakened, I thought I had been dreaming but my head told me otherwise.</P>
136.sgm:<P>On May 24th was the Queen's Birthday, so the English warship officers decided to hold a celebration and many were invited; this also was a stag affair and again I was "among those present."  There was much music from Hawaiian men and women entertainers and early in the morning, after about ten thousand toasts to "THE Queen, God Bless Her," the affair became so very boisterous and noisy that a squad of Hawaiian police were called to stop the disturbance; this was resented by the English and resulted in many being arrested and taken to police headquarters, but when it was ascertained that among those arrested were the Ambassadors of England, France, United States, Spain and other foreign countries, they were profuse in their apologies for the "mistake."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Shortly after, the 4th of July rolled around and the Americans concluded to reciprocate and also have a celebration and invite many guests.  I was a member of the Committee of Arrangements and we decided that ours would not be a stag affair but that we would have ladies present.  Well, my memory is still a little hazy of just what happened but I know it was a wonderful success, so much so, that I decided that Honolulu was no place for the cure of any stomach ailments and the following day I took ship for home, with a number of young men with whom I had become acquainted.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I have since then seen many hula dancers, both on the stage and on the screen, but never haxe I ever seen dancers who performed like the King's private dancers.  The dancers wore different costumes for different dances, such as grass skirts or tapa gowns, other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Like Mark Twain, the Islands were found very "appealing" and I would like again to make a visit, but this time no doubt would find them "spoiled" by civilization and the "Huapalas" would not be what they used to be.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V<LB>Early Days of Gambling in Marysville</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>FROM a Directory of the City of Marysville, published in 1855, appears the following article:</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The first public gaming house erected in this city was situated on First street, south side, between D and Maiden Lane.  It was kept by James Wharton, and was known as the Round Tent.  It consisted of a series of poles inserted into the earth and covered with canvas.  Others followed soon after, outvieing in the splendor of their adornments, and the inducements which they held out for the allurement of victims, among which was the El Dorado.  This was erected on D street, having an L on First, and for a long time was the grand point of attraction for all the votaries of chance in this section of the country.  Music sent out its charms from this great gambling centre, and artists that would now indignantly refuse to appear in any other place than the concert-room, or the theatre, hesitated not to regale the bacchanalian crowd that assembled with their most exquisite strains, batoning upon the applause that occasionally exploded from the absorbed and stultified gamblers.  Musical talent, at that time, commanded the most Utopian prices.  Any amateur that could torture horse hair and cat-gut into any consecutive sounds reasonably endurable, found the gambling saloon a much more remunerative field for his labor than the richest laden placer or gulch.  This great maelstrom of fortune was lined with all the salacious attractions that obscene pictures and "bar decorations" could give it.  Every species of gambling was here spred out to the gaze of visitors in its most winning aspect.  Many an American who had left his home, and with it the early morals and inculcations that years of anxious care and solicitude had been spent to give him, shook them off, as he did the decencies that had been taught him at the fire-side, on his arrival here, and was impulsively hurried to that vortex of penury, ruin and disgrace--The Gambling Table.  Every phase of this soul-destroying pestilence was practiced with all its enticing allurements.  The representatives of all nations were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>"The universal mania for gambling at this time was not condemned or denounced by one man in fifty, either by his absence from these altars of pollution, or an open declaration of his hatred and abhorrence of the vice.  The amounts staked, and the boldness manifested in these operations, when taken into consideration at the present time, seem fabulous.  The sums hazarded on the single turning of a card, to the uninitiated, exceed belief.  Every saloon and table forced into this nefarious vice was daily and nightly crowded, and frequently so literally overwhelmed, that it was at the risk of physical disablement that the infatuated ventured near them.  A spectator to these exciting scenes had reason to congratulate himself if he escaped with a whole skin.  Immense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI<LB>How I was Cured of Gambling</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>LIKE all early day towns of California, gambling was one of the leading indoor sports of Marysville and I presume has always continued to be so, in, however, a much less degree.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As a young man, I remember that almost every saloon had gambling rooms in the rear, but there were two larger establishments which were fitted up for gambling only, faro being the principal game.  One of these establishments was conducted by John Stevenson and the other by Alfred Mann, both of them being highly respected citizens and popular and with reputations of running absolutely "square" games.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I knew both of these men very well, particularly Alf Mann, as he was familiarly called; he was a very fine looking and dignified person and his wife was a handsome woman and her diamonds were the  envy of other members of her sex.</P>
136.sgm:<P>To have a little diversion in the way of gambling those days was not particularly frowned upon by the general public, and quite often I used to patronize Alf's place for a little diversion of this kind; I had a sort of sneaking, lingering fondness for playing faro; I did not play big stakes and with only more or less indifferent results.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was in January, 1887 that, with three kindred spirits, I decided to make a visit to an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Our first stop was at Portland for two days, then to Seattle and Spokane (population about 1500 then) for a day each.  We then reached Butte, Montana where I got engrossed in playing faro and my companions continued on to St. Paul; as I was very considerably on the winning end of the game, I stayed over at Butte.  On the third night, "Lady Luck" deserted me and my winnings of about three thousand dollars vanished into thin air and I was flat broke.  I wired home for funds and returned; I had had a good time and have always considered the experience well worth while, as to this day I have never gambled at cards.  In fact, I haven't played a game of card of any kind for some forty-five years; I simply lost interest in card playing thereafter.</P>
136.sgm:<P>On my trip back home, I decided to take the steamer from Portland to San Francisco.  I took passage on the steamer Columbia, reached Astoria where two attempts were made to cross over the bar but the Captain each time considered it dangerous and returned and we docked for two days at the Astoria wharf.  I found some kindred spirits on the steamer and we decided to give a ball on the dock.  We "passed the hat" among the passengers, raised funds and had hand bills printed and circulated in town, inviting every one to a free ball.  The invitations circulated were as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>GRAND BALL</P>
136.sgm:<P>Given by the passengers</P>
136.sgm:<P>of STEAMSHIP COLUMBIA</P>
136.sgm:<P>F. BOLLES<HSEP>Commander</P>
136.sgm:<P>Astoria Dock, Jan. 22, 1887.</P>
136.sgm:<P>No expense has been spared to make this the grandest social event of the season.  The 21st Astoria Artillery Band of 36 pieces has been engaged for the occasion and will dispense the melodies to the terpsichorean artists, and electric arc lights will illumine the scene.  All are cordially invited.</P>
136.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF ARRANGEMENTS:</P>
136.sgm:<P>W. G. DODD,<HSEP>W. N. SMITH,</P>
136.sgm:<P>GEO. W. JESSUP,<HSEP>J. SELLING.<HSEP>W. T. ELLIIS, JR.</P>
136.sgm:<P>PROGRAMME:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Waltz,<HSEP>Mable</P>
136.sgm:<P>Lancers,<HSEP>Hattie</P>
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136.sgm:<P>Schottische,<HSEP>Lucina</P>
136.sgm:<P>Polka,<HSEP>Pitti Sing</P>
136.sgm:<P>Plain Quadrille,<HSEP>Our Grandmother</P>
136.sgm:<P>Waltz,<HSEP>Astoria</P>
136.sgm:<P>Polka,<HSEP>Kiss Me Baby</P>
136.sgm:<P>Real Reel,<HSEP>Old Black Joe</P>
136.sgm:<P>Schottische,<HSEP>Our Sweethearts</P>
136.sgm:<P>Waltz,<HSEP>Love Me Darling</P>
136.sgm:<P>Saratoga,<HSEP>Wait'till we Cross the Bar</P>
136.sgm:<P>Waltz,<HSEP>Yum Yum</P>
136.sgm:<P>Farewell--Music by the Band.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Iron Bars are tough,<LB>Legal Bars are tougher,<LB>Whiskey Bars are rough,<LB>But the Columbia Bar is ROUGHER.</HI>
136.sgm:<P>Please consider this an invitation and ticket of admission.</P>
136.sgm:<P>We arranged with a local saloon man to have a branch bar at the wharf and he did a big business, as pretty near the whole town accepted the invitation.  When the steamer crossed the bar the next day at high tide many didn't give a hang if the steamer sank or not.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII<LB>The City of Marysville in Early Days</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>THE first City Directory of Marysville was published in Marysville under date of August, 1853 by Hale &amp; Emory, who had a printing office at that time on the southeast corner of First and High Streets, near the bank of the Yuba River.  The publishers mentioned the difficulties of compiling such a book in the new town and referred to Marysville as "the second City in California," claiming its population as being close to ten thousand and only exceeded in size by San Francisco.  At that time it was claimed that there were about 4000 pack animals and 400 wagons transporting freight out of Marysville to the mining regions and four stage lines had been established.  A few years previous, the only building on the site of the town was an adobe house, the headquarters of what was called the Nye Ranch, which was destroyed by a fire in 1851 when the new "mushroom" town consisted mostly of tents and a scattering of frame buildings.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Trade and commerce really began before there was any City laid out.  The City's area and all the territory lying between the Yuba and Feather Rivers, north to Honcut Creek to the base of the foothills on the east, was under the control of Theodore Cordua, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW OF MARYSVILLE FROM AN OLD ENGRAVING MADE IN 1856 <LB>VIEW IS LOOKING SOUTH FROM THE PRESENT CATHOLIC CHURCH <LB>ON THE LEFT IS SHOWN A LARGE VACANT SPACE WHICH IS NOW CORTEZ SQUARE <LB>ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THIS SQUARE CAN BE SEEN "THE CASTLE," PRESENT HOME <LB>OF THE AUTHOR AND ON THE NORTH SIDE IS THE PRESENT DELORMIER HOME <LB>IN THE CENTER OF THE PICTURE IS THE PRESENT COUNTY COURT HOUSE</P>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>YUBA COUNTY COURT HOUSE, ERECTED IN 1856</P>
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136.sgm:<P>An influx of people began, many coming to establish businesses of various kinds, and tents of all sizes commenced to be erected, to be followed later with wooden structures.  At that same time, another town had been laid out on the west side of the Feather River and was called Yuba City, and for some time there was great rivalry between the two places.  For quite a while, Yuba City had the larger population, but eventually lost out in the race, mainly because the traffic was with the mining section to the east and to cross the Feather River from Yuba City was a great hindrance.  Some time later a small ferry was established but it was many years before a bridge was constructed across the river.  In the meantime, a town site had been laid out about four miles south of Marysville, which was called Eliza, this because during the summer season steamers could come up to what was afterwards called Eliza Bend, when they could not reach Marysville and, for a time, it looked as if Eliza was going to win out against Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Another town site was laid out at the mouth of the Feather River and was called Vernon and for some time there was quite a population there, also at Nicolaus, about nineteen miles by river below Marysville, where tidal effect gave good navigation throughout the year.  Still another town site which was laid out on the Feather was named Fremont; in time Fremont and Eliza became memories, but Nicolaus and Vernon still retain their names on the map.  At a large ranch, about six miles south of Yuba City, Captain John Sutter maintained part-time headquarters when he was not at Sutter's Fort at Sacramento; this ranch he called Hock Farm and raised wine grapes there; for many years, the small round iron fort he maintained on the ranch, near the river bank, as a protection against the Indians was in existence.  It was destroyed by a break in the levee there in 1907; the remains of this old iron fort are now used as a background for a placque, commemorating the memory of Hock Farm.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After Marysville was first laid out by Covillaud and his partners (it was then called Yubaville), there were practically no established laws and crime became more or less rampant; it was about this time (1850) that a new arrival appeared on the scene, who afterward became first "Alcalde" (Spanish for Mayor).  He was Stephen J. Field, who later was Justice of the Peace, then State Assemblyman, then State Supreme Court Justice, and still later, for many years, Associate Justice of the United States Supreme Court.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I have attempted herein to briefly touch on the early history of Marysville, gleaned largely from the various old City Directories still in existence in the City Library; from Judge Field's own book, and from tales told me by my father, who was well acquainted with Judge Field.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A few years ago, Professor Earl Ramey of the Marysville Junior College did an immense amount of research work on the early history of Marysville and published a book of one hundred pages sponsored by the California Historical Society of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>I have seen many changes in Marysville during my life time.  Marysville, as I remember it as a small lad, had the built-up business and residential section practically all south of 9th Street and east of F Street, which about marked the boundary of the lake, which in those days extended north and south entirely through the City and to the north and west of the lake.  There were a few scattered houses south of 8th Street, while to the north, that area was called "the plains," streets were not laid out, there were no fences and one could walk or drive in any direction.  Crossing the lake was a narrow street on 5th Street and another on E Street.  Both of these streets had elevated wooden bridges for sidewalks, and there was another elevated wooden bridge on 8th Street, between E and F Streets.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The only worth-while and substantially built residences on the west side of the "slough" were the very fine residence built by John C. Fall at the southwest corner of 7th and G Streets, now owned by Mr. Richard Belcher; on the southwest corner of 8th and G Streets a two story brick residence owned by Sheriff Matt Woods, where the Arthur Chase residence is now situated, and across the street from these two residences a two story brick residence, for many years owned by Colonel J. B. Fuller, where the present playground of the Primary School is now located.  Where are now situated such buildings as the Elk's Club, Memorial Auditorium, Dunning Rideout Residence, Diamond Match Company plant, W. S. O'Brien residence, Anderson Tractor Company's buildings and the City's Sewage pump plant at F and 2nd Streets was all lake area.  The lake was quite wide between 8th and 10th Streets, the south bank being on the north side of my father's large yard where some forty-five years ago I planted a row of palm trees within ten feet of the lake bank; these palm trees are now there, very tall, and are on the south line of the residence now owned by Dr. E. E. Gray.  Across the street from my father's home, on the bank of the lake, there were several Indian "tepees," where a number of "Bucks," "Mahales" and their children camped, mostly in the winter months, as during the summer months they would go to the mountains to hunt and fish.  During the summers, at the edge of the foothills, there usually were large quantities of grasshoppers and "when they were in season," the Indians would gather up large quantities in sacks, dip them in water to drown them, and spread them out to dry.  Then the women would grind them up into a fine powder and use it for "flour" to make pancakes; they were considered a great delicacy.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Directly across the street from my father's home, there was a small cottage at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Some 40 years ago, the Southern Pacific Railroad built their present track on 9th Street, which was at that time an earth embankment in the center of the lake, where the present curve of the track now is, leading to E Street.  The County Hospital in those early days was a two story brick building, situated close to the south bank of Simmerly Slough, about two blocks northeast of the present Hospital buildings.  The Marysville of today presents an entirely different picture than I remember it in those days, and I can visualize even greater improvements when, some day not far distant, the few remaining residence lots west of E Street will have homes on them and the large area east of A Street will also be a large residential section.  This will commence when some day the City authorities realize that the City itself must take the initiative and force the removal of many unsightly shacks in that area, encourage the planting of shade trees and improve the streets, which the City could well afford to do at its own expense to encourage home building which will result in increased assessment rolls which will eventually reimburse the City for that expenditure.  When I was Mayor, some 43 years ago, had not the City taken the initiative in causing to be filled all of the lake between 9th and 2nd Streets, there would not have been the development on the west side of that lake area which now exists there.  It is unfortunate, but so many people require such a long time to adjust themselves to new ideas; many influences tend to frustrate and stop the use of ideas, very largely because of lack of vision.  I still hope that the aim and desires of "The East Side Improvement Club" will eventually materialize.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII<LB>Judge Stephen J. Field</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>THE site of the City of Marysville was first obtained from the Mexican Government by Theodore Cordua and later on he obtained a private grant of "seven leagues lying just north of his lease" which took in practically all the territory bounded on the south by the Yuba River, on the west by the Feather River, and on the north by Honcut Creek.  He then started in the stock business, planning to have his main market for his products at Mexico.  This was in the year 1842.  He had known of the gold discovery near San Fernando in 1842, and in March, 1848, while visiting at the new Helvetia Rancho, was shown some of the newly mined gold from Coloma on the American River but was not very much impressed, assuming that the American River mines would be of no great importance.  During the month of June, 1848 gold was discovered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I might mention here that William H. Parks, in the spring of 1849, came to California overland and settled at Rose Bar on the Yuba River and constructed a dam across the River at that point to facilitate mining during the drier months, and also set up a store at the Bar and commenced operating pack trains from Marysville to give supplies to the diggings.  He was very active in the new town which was afterwards established on the present site of Marysville and he was one of the pioneers who founded Downieville but later he returned to Marysville where he had a long and prominent political career becoming one of the town's most noted citizens, second only to Stephen J. Field.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It soon became apparent to various people that a town-site should be laid out.  Among those first decided on was the town to be known as Linda, also another one on the present site of Yuba City.  At that time a French surveyor named Auguste Le Plongeon arrived; he was a surveyor and was responsible for the laying out of the town-site of Marysville which already had quite a large population living mostly in tents.  It was in 1850 that the site of Yuba City had a larger estimated population than Marysville and it was in that year that John H. Jewett and Horace Beach arrived in Yuba City from Sacramento with a train of pack mules and a stock of merchandise.  It took them about a week to decide whether they should establish their business in the site of Yuba City or the site of Marysville, but finally they decided to settle on the east bank of the river and swam the Feather River with their mules and settled in Marysville where they established a profitable business.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was in December, 1849 that Stephen J. Field arrived at San Francisco and after a short attempt to practice as an attorney, decided to establish himself in the newly laid out town of Vernon (at the mouth of the Feather River); but when he arrived at the site of Vernon, flood waters covered almost the entire territory, so he decided to come to the new town of Marysville (at that time called "Jubaville" which previously had been called Nye's Ranch), the town-site having just been laid out.  Judge Field describes his arrival in his "Memoirs" as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>"No sooner had the vessel (Lawrence) struck the landing at Nye's Ranch than all the passengers, some forty or fifty in number, as if moved by a common impulse, started for an old adobe building, which stood upon the bank of the river, and near which were numerous tents.  Judging by the number of the tents, there must have been from five hundred to a thousand people there.  When we reached the adobe and entered the principal room, we saw a map spread out upon the counter, containing the plan of a town, which was called "Yubaville," and a man standing behind it, crying out, "Gentlemen, put your names down; put your names down, all you that want lots."  He seemed to address himself to me, and I asked the price of the lots.  He answered, "Two hundred and fifty dollars each for lots 80 by 160 feet." I replied, "But suppose a man puts his name down and afterwards don't want the lots?"  He rejoined, "Oh, you need not take them if you don't want them; put your names down, gentlemen, you that want lots."  I took him at his word and wrote my name down for sixty-five lots, aggregating in all $16,250.  This produced a great sensation.  To the best of my recollection I had only about twenty dollars left of what Col. Stevenson had paid me; but it was immediately noised about that a great capitalist had come up from San Francisco to invest in lots in the rising town.  The consequence was that the proprietors of the place waited upon me and showed me great attention."</P>
136.sgm:<P>The proprietors of the new town-site engaged Field to draw a conveyance which would place them in possession of the equity Sutter might claim in the town-site and Sutter shortly after came to Marysville and signed a document selling his interests to Charles Covillaud, Jose Manuel Ramirez, Theodore Sicard and John Sampson, for $10,000.  This was all that tract of land included in the territory granted to him by the Governor of California.  A few days after this was accomplished, a mass meeting was held at the town's headquarters, and it was resolved to hold a general election that same day to select officers for a temporary local government to be patterned after the prevailing Mexican type.  Field managed to get his name placed in nomination for first Alcalde, the most important office.  His opponent was C. B. Dodson of Illinois.  It was a campaign of only a few hours and Field won by 9 votes, largely through the activities and influence brought to bear by William H. Parks.  Shortly after, it was decided that the name Yubaville, which many called Jubaville, was not liked, very largely because the name of Yuba City had been already adopted for the town on the west bank of the Feather River.  At a mass meeting to decide upon a new name, various names were suggested but finally one man arose and in quite an impressive and effective speech proposed that the town be named in honor of Mrs. Mary Covillaud, the wife of one of the proprietors, a member of the famous Donner Party and the first white woman to be in Marysville.  His suggestion prevailed and the name of Marysville was adopted for the new town.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Field as Alcalde was practically the whole government, notwithstanding the fact that they had a town council which there is no record of ever having had a meeting.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX<LB>Gold Dust Shipments from Marysville</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>FROM an old Marysville City Directory, printed in 1858, appears the following:</P>
136.sgm:<P>"GOLD DUST BUSINESS OF MARYSVILLE"</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The gold dust business for the last year was very considerable, as figures below show that very nearly half of the shipments in 1858 to the Atlantic Cities were made of the gold dust purchased and shipped by Low Bros. &amp; Company, Reynolds Bros., and Mark Brumagin &amp; Co., all bankers of our City; --"</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total amount of Gold Dust shipped by above Bankers in 1857<HSEP>$10,175,000.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total amount shipped from January 1st to June 31st, 1858<HSEP>$4,350,000.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total amount in a year and a half,<HSEP>$14,525,000.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>In recent years, since records have been kept by the State Division of Mines, for the last eighteen years Yuba County has been the largest gold producing County in the State with the exception of six of those years.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X<LB>Religion in Marysville in Early Days and Schools</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>IT IS of record in an old City Directory printed in 1855, that the first preaching in Marysville was by Rev. Mr. Washburn who conducted services on Sundays on an old barge on the Yuba River near the foot of D Street in 1850.  He and his wife conducted a small lodging house, where she attended to the house and kitchen management, while on week days the husband conducted a faro game in a rear room back of the bar of the hotel.  This story was denied in later years, it being claimed that Mr. Washburn had a son, who opened a saloon next to his father's hotel, much to the objections of his father.  Which story is true is of course impossible to prove but I believe that "history" should give Washburn Senior the benefit of the doubt.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the Marysville City Directory of 1857, appears the following; --</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The first preaching in Marysville (if we except the exhortations of an old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ST. JOSEPH'S CHURCH, ERECTED IN 1856</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ST. JOHN'S EPISCOPAL CHURCH, ERECTED IN 1855</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>"The Episcopal congregation was formed in 1854 and Rev. E. W. Hager chosen Rector. St. John's, a fine brick church, was erected, mainly by the energy and influence of Mr. Hager, in the latter part of 1855, on the corner of E and Fifth Streets (it is still there).</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The Catholic pastor, Rev. Peter Magagnotto, organized a church here, in the fall of 1852.  A wooden church was built in 1853 and occupied until the elegant brick structure of St. Joseph's Church was completed in 1856.  This is by far the most expensive church edifice in this part of the State and when its Gothic spire is completed will be a great ornament to the City."  NOTE (This is the same very fine edifice, always kept in wonderful repair, at 7th and C Streets and, at this writing, presided over by Monsignor Patrick Guerin).</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Common schools, sufficient to meet the wants of the City, are fostered and sustained by the excellent school system of the State. Miss Wells, a most estimable lady, and a superior teacher, has recently opened an academy for young ladies in which all the higher branches, with music, drawing, painting, etc., are taught.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The Sisters of Notre Dame have also opened a similar institution, but on a more extensive scale, in a large three-story edifice, erected for the purpose."  (Since that time, this institution has greatly expanded and now is a very prominent and popular educational school and is accredited to the University of California; the plant occupies an entire City block.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>As a young boy, I well remember Bishop Patrick O'Connell of the Catholic church; at that time Marysville was the head of the Diocese; in later years, it was moved to Sacramento.  The Catholic Church was only two blocks from my father's home and father <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI<LB>Early Day Theatrical Amusements in Marysville</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>IN THE Marysville City Directory of 1859, appears the following:</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Amusements are in a less flourishing condition with us than formerly, which is doubtless attributable to the fact that we seldom see fair talent in the various companies of strollers who, from time to time, pitch their tents with us.  The first entertainment ever given in Marysville was by Mr. H. Rossitter, and consisted of a few legerdemain tricks and slack wire dancing.  The entertainment was given in the winter of 1850, in the ball room of the St. Charles Hotel, corner of D and Third Streets.  Early in the summer of 1881, Dr. Robinson opened a spacious canvas theatre on the corner of High and Second Streets, with a fair vaudeville company, and was very successful.  Following him came James Stark, the California Tragedian, supported by Nesbitt McCron, an English actor of much merit, and Mrs. J. H. Kirby, now Mrs. Stark.  The season was good for both managers and audiences.  In 1852, the somewhat celebrated George Chapman furnished some economical theatricals in a small room on First Street.  In October of the same year, C. E. Bingham visited Marysville with a company, and held forth in the bath-house, corner of D and First Streets.  His success was such that it was thought a theatre might be sustained--but who would build it?  It might be a failure, and money was paying five per cent per month interest.  At last, two enterprising citizens, Seymour Pixley, Esq., architect, and William W. Smith, Esq., then Clerk of the City, entered upon the experiment.  A neat and tastefully decorated theatre was completed in December, and opened by Mr. Bingham, who, though himself a good actor, had collected around him a company more numerous than talented.  He did well for two months, which is a long season for a small town.  This theatre was destroyed by fire and the present brick one was erected on its ruins by R. A. Eddy, Esq.; it is now owned by J. S. Eshom, Esq."</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, ERECTED IN 1855</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CONVENT OF NOTRE DAME, FOUNDED IN 1856</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The City Directory of 1855 states that "this theatre was constructed at an expense of $24,000."  "There are about six hundred seats in the house, each affording an uninterrupted sight of the stage."</P>
136.sgm:<P>All the noted actors and actresses of world-wide reputation later appeared at this theatre; there are still in existence in Marysville large theatrical posters advising of the coming of Edwin Booth and other famous actors.  Marysville was always known as a good patron of theatricals.  In later days when the best shows from New York went on tour, playing only the large cities, when they had completed an engagement of from one to two weeks at San Francisco, with the next big town being Portland, they would almost invariably stop off for a one night show at Marysville, and "pass up" Sacramento.  There were two reasons for this: first, Marysville had the reputation of giving liberal patronage; and second, no time was lost, as the train would reach Marysville at five p.m. and the next train north left about midnight, so the show had ample time to give their entertainment and be on their way north on the same day, but if they showed at Sacramento, they would not have time to catch this night train and had to stay over one day there.  Of these high class shows, Marysville would average about two a month.  At this same time, other cheaper shows made regular circuits.  They presented lurid melodramas which were highly popular, their prices usually being 10c, 20c and 30c, and their usual run in a town was one week, with a different melodrama each night; they always did a good business.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In those days the "gallery gods" were rather a tough and independent lot and never refrained from expressing their pleasure or displeasure in a very marked degree when, in their opinion, either was required.  Of the better shows, a very popular pair of actors was Miss Nance O'Neill and Mr. McKee Rankin.  They were giving a very excellent show one evening when, in one of the scenes, the play called for Miss O'Neill to be kissed several times by her leading man, and each time this occurred, immediately a lot of loud, resounding "smacks," sounding like kisses, emanated from the gallery.  When the curtain went down after that act, Miss O'Neill came out before the curtain and expressed herself in no uncertain terms regarding the boorishness of the people in the gallery; she was "sure mad" and she "put it over" so well that the large audience gave her a great ovation and there were no more unpleasant experiences that evening.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A few years later, however, she returned with another high class show; but, on this occasion, it was very evident that she had been indulging too much in the "cup that cheers" before the performance, and the gallery again "held forth" and the show was a "flop."  The following morning, an editorial appeared in the Appeal, entitled, "Oh, Nance!  How could you?" written by the proprietor, F. W. Johnson, which was very clever and most amusing.  The result was that Nance never came to Marysville again.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was about this time that complaints became rather numerous about the gallery patrons.  At this time, the theatre was managed by Mr. Frank Atkins, who endeavored to keep the gallery more circumspect by having a couple of special policemen present, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII<LB>The Marysville Bar in Early Days</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>THE disciples of the law played a very important part in the history of Yuba County and much of its success was due to the efforts of those gentlemen.  The Bar of Yuba has always been, and is now, justly celebrated for the learning, culture and ability of its members, and has given to the country many who achieved a national reputation in the higher walks of political and judicial life.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the following list, the date immediately following the name is the year in which practice was commenced at the Bar in Yuba County.  Names are given only of those who commenced practice priorto 1870.</P>
136.sgm:<P>SIDNEY ABELL, 1854. Came from New York.</P>
136.sgm:<P>L. J. ASHFORD, 1861.  From Canada.  Associate Justice of Court of Sessions, 1860.  Admitted to the Bar here in 1861.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>STEPHEN J. FIELD, FIRST ALCALDE OF MARYSVILLE</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BELCHER BROTHERS, ATTORNEYS AT LAW ESTABLISHED IN 1856 OFFICE AT 230 D STREET, MARYSVILLE W. C. BELCHER   I. S. BELCHER RICHARD BELCHER, SON OF I. S. BELCHER Successor to the Old Firm at the Old Location</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>FRANCIS L. AUDE, 1850-62.  Born in Kentucky.  Came from Missouri.  Supervisor, 1857.  Member of the Assembly; 1858-59.  Went to Virginia City in 1862, and from there to San Francisco.</P>
136.sgm:<P>W. T. BARBOUR, 1851-60.  From Kentucky.  District Judge here from 1852 to 1858.  Went to Virginia City in 1860, where he died.</P>
136.sgm:<P>F. BARNARD, 1851-57.  From New York.  Died at Parks' Bar, 1857.</P>
136.sgm:<P>R. BARNARD, 1853.  From New York.  Died here in 1856.</P>
136.sgm:<P>G. G. BARNARD, 1853-54.  From New York.  Returned to New York in 1854.  Became Recorder of New York City, and Judge of the Superior Court in that City, and was impeached for complicity in the Tammany frauds in 1873.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I. S. BELCHER, 1853.  From Vermont.  District Attorney, 1856-57.  City Attorney, 1859.  District Judge, 1864-69.  Justice of the Supreme Court, 1870.  Chief Commissioner of Supreme Court, 1885-98.</P>
136.sgm:<P>WILLIAM C. BELCHER, 1856.  From Vermont.  City Attorney, 1858. School Commissioner, 1868-69 and 1872-77.</P>
136.sgm:<P>J. C. BLACK, 1863-64.  From--.  Moved to San Jose in 1864.</P>
136.sgm:<P>S. M. BLISS, 1851.  From Pennsylvania.  Member of Court of Sessions, 1853.  County Judge, 1854-58, 1868-75, and 1877-79.  District Judge, 1859-63.</P>
136.sgm:<P>CHARLES H. BRYAN, 1851-60.  From Ohio.  District Attorney, 1852.  Member of State Senate, 1854.  Justice Supreme Court, 1855.  Went to Virginia City, 1860.  Died at Carson City, 1878.</P>
136.sgm:<P>W. C. BURNETT, 1854-58.  From New York.  State Senator, 1856-57.  Went to San Francisco, 1858, and was City and County Attorney there.</P>
136.sgm:<P>NICHOLAS CARROLL, 1854-55.  From New York.  Died in San Francisco.</P>
136.sgm:<P>TIMOTHY DAME, 1859-61.  From Indiana.  Went to San Jose in 1861.</P>
136.sgm:<P>M. VAN B. DAUBY, 1852-56.  From New York.  Died here in 1856.</P>
136.sgm:<P>CHARLES E. DELONG, 1857-63.  From New York.  Member of Assembly, 1858-59.  State Senator, 1861-62.  Went to Virginia City, 1863.  Minister to Japan, 1869.  Died in 1877.</P>
136.sgm:<P>FRANCIS J. DUNN, 1852-57.  From Wisconsin.  Born in Kentucky.  Went to Nevada County in 1857, where he died in 1872.</P>
136.sgm:<P>J. G. EASTMAN, 1864-72.  From Ohio.  City Attorney, 1870-71.  Moved to San Francisco, 1872.</P>
136.sgm:<P>B. E. S. ELY, 1858-59.  From Pennsylvania.  Member of Assembly, 1858.</P>
136.sgm:<P>STEPHEN J. FIELD, 1850-63.  From New York.  First Alcalde of Marysville, 1850.  Member of Assembly, 1851.  Justice Supreme Court, 1859, which position he held for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>CHARLES E. FILKINS, 1851-75.  From New York.  County Judge, 1861.  City Attorney, 1873.  Died in Marysville, 1876.</P>
136.sgm:<P>J. J. FOSTER, 1854-60.  From Tennessee.  Went to Virginia City, 1860.  Died in Austin, Nevada, in 1867.</P>
136.sgm:<P>JESSE O. GOODWIN, 1850.  From New York.  District Attorney, 1850-51.  Supervisor, 1855.  State Senator, 1857-58 and 1878-79.  City Recorder, 1859.  County Judge, 1862-67.  Died, 1879.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GEORGE C. GORHAM, 1859-60.  Was admitted here but never practiced. Editor of the Marysville Daily Enquirer, 1855-56, and the Marysville National Democrat, 1859.  On the San Francisco Nation, 1860, and the Sacramento Union, 1861.  Clerk in United States District Court, 1865-67.  Candidate for Governor, 1867.  Secretary United States Senate, 1868-79.  Secretary National Republican Executive Committee, 1876.</P>
136.sgm:<P>E. O. F. HASTINGS, 1861-62.  From Ohio.  At one time a Member of the Assembly.  Register United States Land Office, 1859.  Moved to Washington, 1862.</P>
136.sgm:<P>FRANCIS L. HATCH, 1854-63.  From Texas.  District Attorney, 1858-61.  Went to Santa Clara County, 1863.  Was County Judge of Colusa County.</P>
136.sgm:<P>HENRY P. HAUN, 1850-61.  From Iowa.  Born in Kentucky.  County Judge, 1850-53.  United States Senator to fill Broderick's unexpired term, 1860.  Died in Marysville, 1861.</P>
136.sgm:<P>DAVID L. HAUN, 1858-62.  From Kentucky.  Member of Assembly, 1861. Went to Plumas County in 1862, wher he was District Attorney.</P>
136.sgm:<P>CHARLES G. HUBBARD, 1858-65.  From New York.  Moved to San Francisco in 1865.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A. C. HUSTON, 1854-56.  From New York.  Was killed in the Nicaragua expedition, 1856.</P>
136.sgm:<P>PHIL. W. KEYSER, 1850.  From Maryland.  Alcalde of Eliz, 1850.  Postmaster Marysville, 1852.  County Judge of Sutter County, 1860-63, 1867-71.  District Judge, 1870-79.</P>
136.sgm:<P>CHARLES KEYSER, 1858-61.  From Maryland.  Went to Nevada, 1861.</P>
136.sgm:<P>WILLIAM B. LATHAM, 1866-67.  From Ohio.  Went to San Francisco in 1867.</P>
136.sgm:<P>CHARLES LINDLY, 1854-62.  From Illinois.  Born in Kentucky.  County Clerk and Recorder, 1852-53.  City Attorney, 1856-57.  Receiver United States Land Office, 1858.  County Judge, 1859-62.  Went to Virginia City, 1862.  Code Commissioner, 1871-72.</P>
136.sgm:<P>ALFRED A. MACE, 1860-63.  From France.  Went to Virginia City, 1863.  Died in San Francisco.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHARLES E. DELONG MEMBER OF MARYSVILLE BAR 1857-63 MEMBER OF ASSEMBLY 1858-59 STATE SENATOR 1861-62 MINISTER TO JAPAN 1869</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WILLIAM WALKER "THE GRAY-EYED MAN OF DESTINY" ATTORNEY IN MARYSVILLE, 1851-53 LEADER OF THE FILIBUSTERING EXPEDITION IN LOWER CALIFORNIA, 1853-54 EDITOR IN SACRAMENTO IN 1855 LEADER OF THE FILIBUSTER INVASION OF NICARAGUA WHERE HE WAS CAPTURED AND SHOT ON SEPTEMBER 12TH, 1860</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>LLOYD MAGRUDER, 1858-63.  From Arkansas.  County Clerk, 1856-57.  Member of the Assembly, 1861.  Killed by highwaymen in Washington Territory in 1863.</P>
136.sgm:<P>E. C. MARSHALL, 1854-56.  From Ohio.  Born in Kentucky.  Member of Congress, 1853.  Returned to Ohio, 1856.</P>
136.sgm:<P>LEONIDAS MARTIN, 1850-56.  From Alabama.  District Attorney, 1854-55.  Returned to Alabama in 1856.  Was appointed Minister to Valparaiso, where he soon after died.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GEORGE MAY, 1858-71.  From Missouri.  Went to the lower part of the State in 1871.</P>
136.sgm:<P>F. J. MCCANN, 1850-70.  From Kentucky.  Born in Maryland.  County Judge, Sierra County, 1856.  District Attorney, 1864-65.  Went to Santa Cruz in 1870.</P>
136.sgm:<P>JOHN T. MCCARTY, 1850-59.  From Indiana.  City Recorder, 1857-58.  Died here in, 1859.</P>
136.sgm:<P>J. W. MCCORKLE, 1850-63.  From Ohio.  Member of the Legislature, 1851. Elected to Congress, 1851.  Moved to Virginia City, 1863.  Went to San Francisco, 1868.</P>
136.sgm:<P>R. H. MCDANIEL, JR., 1861-68.  From Mississippi.  Died in Marysville in 1868.</P>
136.sgm:<P>W. H. MCGREW, 1861.  Admitted here.  Lived in Sutter County.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I. C. MCQUAID, 1852-59.  From Ohio.  Moved to Sutter County, 1859.  District Attorney Sutter County, 1859-63.</P>
136.sgm:<P>J. A. MCQUAID, 1857-64.  From Ohio.  Moved to Virginia City, 1864.</P>
136.sgm:<P>R. R. MERRILL, 1857-73.  From Ohio.  District Attorney, 1866-69.  Died at Marysville in 1873.</P>
136.sgm:<P>R. S. MESICK, 1851-63.  From New York.  State Senator, 1857.  Moved to Virginia City, 1863.  Was District Judge in Nevada.</P>
136.sgm:<P>WM. S. MESICK, 1854-60.  From New York.  Went to Virginia City, 1860.</P>
136.sgm:<P>R. C. MILNE, 1858-60.  From Vermont.  Died in Marysville in 1860.</P>
136.sgm:<P>HENRY K. MITCHELL, 1856-63.  From New York.  Moved to Virginia City, 1863.</P>
136.sgm:<P>JOHN H. MITCHELL, 1850-51.  Died in Marysville in 1851.</P>
136.sgm:<P>ZACH MONTGOMERY, 1854-64.  From Kentucky.  Member of the Assembly, 1860.  Went to San Francisco in 1864.  Editor Occident and Vanguard, 1864.  Was a member of the Legislature.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GORDON N. MOTT, 1850-60.  From Ohio.  Served in the Mexican war.  First County Judge of Sutter County.  District Judge, 1851.  City Recorder, 1855.  Appointed Judge of the Supreme Court in Nevada, 1861.  Delegate to Congress, 1863-64.  Court Commissioner, 19th District, San Francisco, 1874.</P>
136.sgm:<P>SAMUEL B. MULFORD, 1850-63.  From Pennsylvania.  District Attorney, 1850.  City Recorder, 1856.  Died at Marysville, 1863.</P>
136.sgm:<P>WM. G. MURPHY, 1863.  From Tennessee.  District Attorney, 1870-72.  City Attorney, 1875-79.  Went to Virginia City in 1863 and returned in 1866.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>H. L. PIERSON, 1869-78.  From Louisiana.  Lived in Sutter County.  Died in 1878.</P>
136.sgm:<P>JAMES MCC. REARDON, 1857-75.  From Maryland.  Went to Virginia City, 1861.  Clerk Supreme Court, Nevada, 1863.  Returned to Marysville in 1867, where he died in 1875.</P>
136.sgm:<P>T. B. REARDON, 1851-63.  From Maryland.  County Clerk Sutter County, 1850-51.  County Judge, Sutter County, 1851-52.  Went to Virginia City, 1863.  Then District Judge Fourteenth California District.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GEORGE ROWE, 1850-73.  From Ohio.  County Treasurer, 1851-54.  District Attorney, 1862-63.  Died in Marysville in 1873.</P>
136.sgm:<P>WALLACE ROWE, 1860-62.  Admitted to the Bar here.  Died in 1862.</P>
136.sgm:<P>OSCAR ROWE, 1868.  Admitted here and went to Texas.</P>
136.sgm:<P>D. R. SAMPLE, 1863-65.  From Indiana.  Went to Sacramento in 1865 where he afterwards died.</P>
136.sgm:<P>S. P. SEMPER, 1861-73.  From England.  Admitted here, but did not practice.  Died in Marysville in 1873.</P>
136.sgm:<P>EZRA K. SHERWOOD, 1855-56.  From New York.  Was killed by accident in 1856.</P>
136.sgm:<P>ELWOOD P. SINE, 1861-63.  From Indiana.  Went to Nevada in 1863.</P>
136.sgm:<P>WM. SINGER, 1854.  From Missouri.  Born in Pennsylvania.  Justice of Court of Sessions, 1853-55 and 1857-59.  Mayor of Marysville, 1858-59.</P>
136.sgm:<P>WM. F. SMITH, 1855-56.  From New York.  Went to San Francisco in 1856.</P>
136.sgm:<P>S. B. SMITH, 1855-61.  From New York.  Was a Commissioner of the Indian War Debt.  Left Marysville in 1861.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GABRIEL N. SWEZY, 1850-75.  From New York.  District Attorney, 1853.  City Attorney, 1856.  Member of the Assembly, 1857.  Died in Marysville in 1875.</P>
136.sgm:<P>JOSEPH TIDBALL, 1858-60.  From Virginia.  Died in Marysville in 1860.</P>
136.sgm:<P>WM. R. TURNER, 1850-51.  From Mississippi.  District Judge, 1850. in 1851 of Humboldt District, 1851-56.  Died in Humboldt County.</P>
136.sgm:<P>PETER VAN CLIEF, 1870-78.  From Ohio.  Moved to San Francisco in 1878.</P>
136.sgm:<P>WM. WALKER, 1851-53.  From Tennessee.  Editor of San Francisco Herald, 1850.  Leader of the filibustering expedition to Lower California in 1853-54.  Editor in Sacramento in 1855.  Leader of the celebrated invasion of Nicaragua, where he was captured and shot September 12, 1860.  He was known as "the Gray-eyed Man of Destiny."</P>
136.sgm:<P>HENRY P. WATKINS, 1850-63.  From Missouri.  Born in Kentucky.  District Attorney, 1850.  Second in command of the Lower California expedition, 1853-54.  State Senator, 1860-61.  Moved to Alameda County, where he died about 1876.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>E. D. WHEELER, 1858-60.  From New York.  County Clerk and Recorder, 1851.  State Senator, 1859.  Became District Judge in San Francisco in 1870.</P>
136.sgm:<P>N. E. WHITESIDES, 1851-76.  From Illinois.  Speaker of the Assembly, 1858.  Died in Marysville in 1876.</P>
136.sgm:<P>W. P. WILKINS, 1856-57.  From North Carolina.</P>
136.sgm:<P>W. L. WILLIS, 1853-55.  From Alabama.  Born in Tennessee.  Died in Marysville in 1855.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GILBERT E. WINTERS, 1852-55.  From Ohio.  Mayor in 1854.  Died in Marysville in 1855.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Every one of the above has long since passed away leaving no successors to "carry on" except I. S. Belcher, whose son, Richard Belcher, has been and still is a leading Attorney of Marysville for many years, occupying the same offices as did his father and uncle, in the early days, at 228 1/2 D Street; a worthy son of an illustrious sire and who upholds the traditions of the old firm of Belcher Brothers.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII<LB>Early Day Railroads, Steamboats and Stages</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>THE first constructed railroad in Yuba County was the California Northern Railroad.  Ground was broken January 22, 1861 and the road was completed between Marysville and Oroville on February 15, 1864.  This road was incorporated on June 29, 1860 with a capital stock of one million dollars; M. D. Darrow was President, and Chinery and Binney were the contractors for the road's construction.  Butte County was very much interested in this road and loaned County bonds in the sum of $209,000 to assist in its construction, the interest rate being 10 per cent.  In later years, ownership of the road was with N. D. Rideout and A. J. Binney.  It is still being operated, now being owned by the Southern Pacific Company.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The second railroad to be constructed was the California Central Railroad; work was commenced at Folsom in 1858; in 1861, grading had been finished two-thirds of the distance and track laid as far as Lincoln.  The name was then changed to the California and Oregon Railroad and the Common Council of Marysville, on October 7, 1868, passed an Ordinance granting rights of way, etc., to the railroad, which was completed to Marysville shortly afterwards.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The third railroad was the California Pacific Railroad, for which a survey was completed in 1853, but nothing was done.  A new survey was then completed in 1857, the company was organized on October, 1857, with a capital stock of three million dollars.  Yuba County voted to give $200,000 but actually gave bonds for $100,000.  The road <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>In 1853, a regular line of steamers left Marysville daily for San Francisco, one steamer leaving at 7:00 A.M. and the other at 2:00 P.M.  At San Francisco, the Pacific Mail Steamship Company had lines of steamers to New Orleans and New York, via Panama.  They controlled twelve boats, "leaving San Francisco on the 1st, 8th, 16th, and 24th of each month; at Panama about the 2nd, 10th, 18th, and 26th of each month."  In 1853, many stage lines were in operation; in 1858 this business was largely controlled by the California Stage Company, which operated from Oregon on the north to the southern part of the State.  Marysville being a central point, innumerable stage left early in the morning daily to forty-eight designated points in the mining area in the mountains.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV<LB>Fire Departments of Early Days</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>THE first fire department was organized on August 17, 1853; in 1858, it had grown very considerably and consisted of seven different companies as follows:--Eureka Engine No. 1, Yuba Engine No. 2, Mutual Engine Company No. 3, Warren Engine Company No. 4, Eureka Hose Company No. 1, Yuba Hose Company No. 2 and the Mutual Hose Company No. 3.  These several engine and hose companies had a combined membership of over 275 members, it being quite an honor and distinction to be a member of some one of these companies.  They all had their separate headquarters and were really "clubs" and the members held many meetings and jollifications.  When a fire occurred, there was great rivalry as to which Company would reach the fire first and maintain the best reputation for such prompt service  My father told me that it was rumored in those days, that in several small fires, that a certain company had been guilty of having started the fire themselves, the members of that Company being given advance notice to hold themselves in readiness and so "beat the other fellows" to the fire.  Each Company always lost some time in starting with their apparatus, as it was the "correct thing" to do to have each member, when he arrived at his company's headquarters, take time to "doll up" with regular large red fire hats, red flannel shirts, patent leather stitched fronts and with wide belts, on which would be silver plated letters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TIMBUCTOO RESCUE HOSE COMPANY NO. I  FROM THE ORIGINAL INK AND WATERCOLOR DRAWING MADE BY GEORGE BARRINGTON IN 1860 AND NOW ON EXHIBITION IN THE OLD EXPRESS OFFICE AND PIONEER MUSEUM AT TIMBUCTOO</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OLD MINERS' HIGH SUSPENSION FLUME CONSTRUCTED IN EARLY DAYS OVER BRANDY GULCH</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The City had the following disastrous fires in its early history:</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 31, 1851<HSEP>$500,000.00 loss</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 10, 1851<HSEP>80,000.00 loss</P>
136.sgm:<P>May 25, 1854<HSEP>158,550.00 loss</P>
136.sgm:<P>July 18, 1854<HSEP>250,000.00 loss</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 22, 1854<HSEP>11,000.00 loss</P>
136.sgm:<P>August, 1856<HSEP>145,000.00 loss</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total<HSEP>$1,144,550.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1858, the assessed value of property in Marysville was $4,388,894.  After the three fires in 1854, more attention was given to a better class of buildings, and the use of brick became almost universal, particularly in the business section, where in most cases there would be outside iron doors and shutters, and Marysville became very largely a "City of brick."  At one time, I remember, every business house in Marysville was in a brick building.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV<LB>List of Hotels in the County of Yuba in 1858 Outside of the City of Marysville</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>LOCATED ON THE FOSTER'S BAR ROAD.</P>
136.sgm:<P>BRIGGS Hotel, George G. Briggs; Farmers' Hotel, A. Pomyea; Zabriskies Hotel, A. L. Zabriskie; Ten Mile House J. H. Bruce; Eleven Mile House, A. D. Andrews; Spring Valley House, A. Pauly; Prairie House, Johnson; Empire House, Beninger; Peoria House, Capt. T. Phillips; Galena House, D. J. Gashairie; Stanfield Hall, Wm. Stanfield; Payne's Ranch, J. Payne; Tennessee House, Richardson; Eighteen Mile House, W. Taylor; Oak Grove House, J. M. Abbott; Martin House, N. J. Martin; Oregon House, Rice &amp; Co.; California House, Moses Robbins; Keystone House, A. Cross; Maple Spring House, P. Labadie; Oregon Hill House and Store, R. Stroud; Greenville House and Store, Edgar &amp; Co.; El Dorado Hotel, P. Guerin; Hotel de France, Gottish &amp; Shorman; Clay's Ranch House, John Clay; Temperance House, Camptonville, Lewis Lewis.</P>
136.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO, AUBURN AND BEAR RIVER ROADS.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Eliza House, Eliza; Haswell Ranch, Bear River; Johnson's Ranch, Bear River, M. Thornburgh; Fount Royal House and Store, F. Waddell; Graham House, W. Graham; Round Tent, J. E. Slater; Brady House, J &amp; M. Brady; Eureka House, F. Bridges; Sand Flat House, Sand Flat.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>LA PORTE AND ST. LOUIS ROAD.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Saw Mill Cottage; Jefferson House, J. Evans; Brownsville House, Martin Knox; Washington House, S. Rice; New York House, Wm. Leedom; Mount Hope, Wm. Smith; Woodville House, J. Wood; Clapboard Ranch, E. Kellogg; Barton House, J. M. Miller; Columbus House, A. Barnhart; Pike County House; Diamond Spring House; American House, E. Whiting; Seneca House; Lexington House; Eagleville Hotel; Pine Grove House; Junction House, J. Bogardus; National House, Comptonville, W. J. Ford; U. S. Hotel, Camptonville, M. K. Napier; Golden Eagle, Brown's Valley, J. Rule.</P>
136.sgm:<P>PARKS' BAR ROAD.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Dry Creek House; Big Bar House, Long Bar, Madame Lobier; New England House, Parks' Bar, Mrs. Baker; Timbuctoo House, Timbuctoo, Mayou &amp; Davis; National Hotel, Timbuctoo, J. Howard; Codding's Hotel, Timbuctoo, Mrs. Codding; Smartsville Hotel and Store, L. B. Clark; Empire House, Mooney &amp; Moody; Union House, F. Chapman; Cass &amp; Co.'s Hotel, Sucker Flat, Cass &amp; Co.</P>
136.sgm:<P>HONCUT ROAD.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Park Hotel, C. S. Ellis; Oak Grove House, J. Cushing; Prairie House, S. Ewers; Sewell's Ranch, Reese; Honcut House, J. Gordon; Eight Mile House; Mayhue Hotel, N. B. Nelson.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Stage Lines Running from Marysville, in 1861</P>
136.sgm:<P>FROM Marysville to Long Bar, Empire Ranch, Rough &amp; Ready, Grass Valley &amp; Nevada.</P>
136.sgm:<P>From Marysville to Wiser's Ferry, Sand Flat, Ousley's Bar, Kenebec Bar, Empire Ranch, French Corral, Sweetland, Sebastopol, San Juan, Emery's Crossing, Camptonville, Forest City and Downieville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>From Marysville to Oregon House, Keystone Ranch, Indiana Ranch, New York House, Pine Grove House, Columbus House, American House, La Porte &amp; St. Louis.</P>
136.sgm:<P>From Marysville to Sewel's Ranch, Bangor, Hansonville, Brownsville, New York Flat, Forbestown, Woodville and Strawberry Valley.</P>
136.sgm:<P>From Marysville to Oroville, Thompson's Flat, Pence's Ranch, Spanishtown and Inskip.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Two lines daily from Marysville, via Nicolaus to Sacramento.</P>
136.sgm:<P>From Marysville to Long Bar, Parks' Bar, Timbuctoo, Sucker Flat &amp; Empire Ranch.  Tri-weekly line from Marysville, via Johnson's Rancho to Auburn.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CALIFORNIA DIGGINS FROM A REMARKABLE DAGUERREOTYPE DATING FROM THE EARLY FIFTIES THE ORIGINAL WAS SENT BY CHARLES F. DELONG TO HIS BROTHER IN NEW YORK STATE, AND REPRESENTS FOSTER'S BAR ON THE NORTH FORK OF THE YUBA RIVER THE SMUDGE AT THE RIGHT IS THE SMOKE FROM A SMALL FIRE NOTE THE DUG-OVER AREA ALONG THE STREAM</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE MAIN STREET OF TIMBUCTOO.  YUBA COUNTY FROM A PHOTOGRAPH MADE IN THE EARLY SIXTIES</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>A daily line from Marysville, via Oroville, Bidwell's Bar, Berry Creek, Mountain House, Peavine, Buck's Ranch, Meadow Valley, Spanish Ranch, Quincy and American Valley.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Also, Sawtelle's Stage line ran from Marysville to Honcut, Central House and Oroville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The above lines, all originated in Marysville; in addition, the California Stage Company's coaches operated from Sacramento, through Marysville to Oregon.  This line had daily coaches running as follows: Sacramento City, Nicolaus, Marysville, Honcut, Oroville, Rio Seco, Chico, Tehama, Red Bluff, Cottonwood, Horse-town, American Ranch, Shasta, French Gulch, Trinity Center, Callahan's Ranch, Ottitiewa, Yreka, Ashland Mills, Jacksonville, North Canyonville, Round Prairie, Roseburg, Winchester, Oakland, Eugene City, Corvallis, Albany, Salem, and Oregon City to Portland, Oregon, a distance in all of 750 miles.</P>
136.sgm:<P>OVERLAND STAGES</P>
136.sgm:<P>Leaves San Francisco for St. Louis, Mo. carrying U.S. Overland Mail and passengers every Monday &amp; Friday.</P>
136.sgm:<P>PONY EXPRESS</P>
136.sgm:<P>The Pony Express leaves San Francisco every Wednesday and Saturday at 3:30 P.M.  Charges $2.50 for one-quarter ounce and heavier weights in proportion.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Early Day Newspapers</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE first newspaper published in Marysville was the Marysville Herald, the first issue being on August 6, 1850, by R. H. Taylor, who was both editor and proprietor.  The paper was conducted by him as a bi-weekly until January 28th, 1851, when Stephen C. Massett purchased an interest.  Massett was quite a character; as a young man, he had come to America from London, England, in 1837; for the next twelve years he drifted about, obtaining various jobs as an accountant, assistant in a law office, and at times earned a living by his excellent penmanship.  He was fond of theatres and got acquainted with many persons connected with that profession.  He had an excellent baritone voice and used it to advantage with various showmen, later on becoming an actor.  He composed songs, some of which became very popular.  He then became a lecturer and impersonator and made money and, in 1843, embarked on a trip to the Mediterranean and wrote letters of his experiences, which were sent to an eastern newspaper for publication, signing same "Jeems Pipes."  In 1849, he decided to come to California, coming by way of Panama and landing at San Francisco, where he obtained employment with a Colonel J. D. Stevenson, who was in the business of selling lots in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The California Express made its appearance as a daily paper on November 3rd, 1851, and was published by Gee Giles &amp; Co.; it was described as being "equal in size to the largest daily out of San Francisco."</P>
136.sgm:<P>The Daily Inquirer made its appearance on November 17, 1851, being issued by J. De Mott &amp; Co.  Later on, in 1858, another newspaper made its appearance.  This was the National Democrat, published by A. S. Randall &amp; Co.  It was also a daily and weekly paper with a claimed circulation of 3500.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Mining in the Streets of Marysville Prohibited</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE minutes of the City Council on August 12th, 1851 disclose that at that meeting Mayor S. M. Miles (first Mayor of Marysville) raised objections to mining which had been started by some miners at the intersection of E and Front Streets (where the Western Pacific freight shed is now located on top of the levee).  The Mayor was authorized to issue a proclamation.  His edict was as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>"It having been represented to me that sundry persons have laid out and staked claims on the bar in front of the steamer landing for mining purposes, now, therefore, I, S. M. Miles, Mayor of the City of Marysville, do hereby caution all persons against trespassing on or injuring the public grounds within the limits of the City of Marysville in any manner whatsoever."</P>
136.sgm:<P>It is not very generally known that the south limits of the City of Marysville include the present north channel of the Yuba River, a width of approximately 600 feet, making the river channel the property of the City of Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It might be of interest to note that, in later years, another attempt was made to take up a mining claim on this same channel, in an effort to "put out of business" a sand plant there in which I was a partner.  The facts are as follows: In 1907 a sand plant was established on the levee at about the foot of B Street, permission being for an 80 foot frontage; the proprietor, having been a miner, took up a mining claim on the entire <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Both plants operated for some years.  Then the rival plant was finally disposed of to the Coast Rock and Gravel Co., which was operating many plants throughout the state.  Later on, we leased our plant to the Coast Rock and Gravel Co. for a period of eight years at a very satisfactory rental.  At the end of the eight year period, the Coast Rock and Gravel Co. was enlarged, many more plants purchased throughout the State, the name changed to the Pacific Coast Aggregates, and they planned to control the sand and gravel business in the State, north of the Tehachepi mountains.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When our lease expired, we took up with them the matter of a new lease, telling them that, if they did not care to again lease our plant, we were planning on the construction of a new plant, as they had permitted our plant to get in a "run down" condition during the term of their lease.  We could get no definite decision from them for some time and finally insisting upon a reply, they responded with an offer to lease at a ridiculously low figure, which we immediately declined.</P>
136.sgm:<P>We then commenced planning for a new plant equipment; and one day, Mr. Oliver, who then lived in Sacramento, was cautioned by a friend who was connected with the Pacific Coast Aggregates Co. to be careful about expending much money on a new plant, as there was a possibility that the larger company might proceed to "put us out of business," as they had certain "rights" which would enable them to stop our extracting sand and gravel from the river channel.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mr. Oliver was considerably perturbed and came to Marysville to see me and told me of the information which had been imparted to him and wanted to know what the other company might "have up their sleeve."  I then told him that the original owner of their Marysville plant had taken up a "mining claim" when the plant was first established but that I had never mentioned it as I was satisfied it gave him no legal rights, as the river channel belonged to the City of Marysville and the site of the City of Marysville had been acquired under Mexican rule and that no lands could have mining locations placed on them when such lands were privately owned prior to the United States Government taking over California.  I also told him that, if there was any doubt in his mind, he should consult the Land Office in Sacramento.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This Mr. Oliver did; and, finding these statements to be correct and that the Coast Rock and Gravel Co. could not "put us out of business," we determined to have a little "satisfaction" at their expense, so Mr. Oliver appeared before their Board of Directors and again broached the subject of a new lease.  He was then informed that they owned a "mining claim" on the Yuba River and intimated that our company had better accept the lease which they had proffered, otherwise we would have to close down.  Mr. Oliver <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>A Labor Strike in 1853</P>
136.sgm:<P>THERE was a labor strike in Marysville in August of 1853.  That was probably the first here.  The word "strike" was already well known, apparently.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The Daily Evening Herald, predecessor of the Morning Appeal, said in its issue of August 8, 1853, that the carpenters employed on buildings under construction had gone out on strike and that they had held a parade that day, with a band and everything.  The men were being paid only $4.00 and $6.50, which was quite a comedown from the $16.00 a day for miners and common labor in the days to and preceding 1851.The Herald said that the carpenters had to pay $12.00 for board, $3.00 for room and $2.00 for laundry, by the week, and therefore needed more pay.  They were demanding $8.00 a day.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>State Reform School in Yuba County</P>
136.sgm:<P>AS PEOPLE commenced to flock into the State, after the discovery of gold, many brought children with them.  Some became rather "wild" and got in various kinds of trouble and agitation commenced to have some State Institution established where these wayward young boys and girls could be kept and not be placed in other institutions with hardened criminals.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Governor Weller, in 1859, made a recommendation to the Legislature; finally, on April 14th, 1859, an Act was passed creating a "State Reform School," and three Commissioners appointed to select a site, and immediately many places wanted the school.  In December, 1859, this Commission selected a site of one hundred acres on the east bank of the Feather River, about five miles north of Marysville, and owned by Charles Covillaud.  The City of Marysville had previously had the tract surveyed, purchase price agreed upon and, on April 18, 1860, the Legislature made an appropriation of $30,000 for the school, the City of Marysville paying for the site.  The building which was erected was 218 feet long and with an average width of 52 feet, there being three stories and a basement.  In 1861, the Legislature appropriated $25,000 for the interior furnishings, etc.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The largest roll of inmates was fifty-four, in 1866.  Finally, in 1868, mainly through the efforts of the San Francisco Industrial School, and with the reluctance of Legislators <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>A Duel in Marysville with my Two Uncles as Seconds</P>
136.sgm:<P>IT WAS the month of June, 1853 and two Marysville editors had been scrapping through their columns for some time about the politics of the day.  Now came a challenge to mortal combat, and--unexpectedly--an acceptance.  They met at sunrise on a field a mile south of Yuba City, because the Yuba County sheriff was opposed to the "code duello" and threatened such combatants with jail.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Judge O. P. Stidger, who had been publishing a paper in North San Juan, had but recently purchased an interest in the Marysville Herald, a tri-weekly publication supporting the Whig party, and was its editor.  Colonel Richard Rust was the editor of the California Express, a democratic sheet.  Editors did not merely espouse causes in those days; they fought for them.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Rust was a southerner and the duel was an institution of the south for satisfying the honor of the gentleman when offended. Stidger was short on knowledge of weapons with the exception of the pen, and with this instrument he had sorely wounded Rust.  So the latter issued the challenge, the bearers being Lee Martin and Charles S. Fairfax.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Judge Stidger was a northerner and Colonel Rust was said to have counted on a refusal by the judge to resort to the field of honor.  But the challenge was promptly accepted, Stidger, as was his right, naming the weapons and the distance.  He chose Buckeye rifles with set triggers, and fixed the distance at 60 yards.  No Buckeyes were to be found.  The second dug up two Mississippi Yagers, but they were of different calibre and not equally reliable.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Lots were drawn for choice of the guns, and Rust's seconds picked the largest and best.  They also won choice of position.  My uncle, Judge Gordon N. Mott acted as second for Judge Stidger, and my uncle Judge T. B. Reardan volunteered as the second one.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"At sunrise of a Sunday morning on a beautiful day in June, with the larks singing, the two editors from Marysville faced each other at a stepped-off distance in Sutter County, `all east 500 yards from the Yuba County line' and waited for the signal to start firing.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Dr. R. H. McDaniel, was in Judge Stidger's party to advise him and to treat him if necessary.  Dr. Rust, brother of the other editor served in like capacity on the other side.  There was a large gathering of friends of the antagonists, and of spectators.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Fairfax gave the instructions.  He was to say `Fire, one, two, three, stop.'  Firing was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>"Stidger had fired high over Rust's head.  Rust shot to kill, but the bullet tore into Stidger's coat pocket, riddling a handkerchief, and remained there.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Rust demanded another shot and Stidger promptly agreed.  Judge Mott and Dr. McDaniel urged that he, too, shoot to kill, as Rust meant to kill him.  He promised, but on the second shot he clipped some of the hair from Rust's head, while Rust missed.  Stidger had tried to wing his adversary, without killing him.  `He has a family,' the judge told his seconds.  They again admonished him, and he promised faithfully to shoot Rust if the latter insisted upon his already requested third shot.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The two groups of seconds went into consultation.  After a few minutes a gun was fired and the announcement came that Rust was satisfied.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Fairfax, experienced in such matters, said afterward that he had never seen two duelists stand more manfully than had these two editors.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Their fighting through their newspapers continued as forcefully afterwards as it had before the affair of honor, even more so, for in August both papers had become dailies."</P>
136.sgm:<P>In later years, when the hydraulic mining controversy was at its height, Judge Stidger again was the owner of a newspaper in North San Juan, called The Times; at the same time, A. S. Smith was the editor of the Marysville Appeal.  These two men were constantly criticizing the other's stand on the mining question.  Smith in his editorials took liberties with Stidger's name by referring to him as "Old Stinker" and Stidger in turn would take liberties with Smith's initials by referring to him as "Ass Smith"; their duels were "long distance" ones.  Whenever Smith would write a particularly nasty editorial, he always made it a point to see me to ask if I had read his last editorial on "Old Stinker."</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Yuba County's English Lord</P>
136.sgm:<P>YUBA County was once represented in the state legislature by a British lord.  Charles Snowden Fairfax was the tenth Lord Fairfax, but he, like his father and grandfather, back in Virginia, failed to use the title.  They were Americans.  They had been Americans for several generations of the family.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Fairfax County in Virginia was named for the first member of the family to locate there, Thomas, the sixth in the line of lords.  His mother was a daughter of Lord Culpepper, so he had titles on both sides.  His mother left him a large estate in the American colonies and he came to look after them, living at Mount Vernon.  He employed George Washington to survey his lands, thus beginning a close friendship.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Charlie Fairfax was a democratic fellow, who fitted into the miner's cabin or the drawing room of a mansion with equal grace.  He was extremely popular, and, although not an orator, he was a great vote getter, occupying several offices in California.  He was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JUDGE THOMAS B. REARDAN AN UNCLE OF THE AUTHOR</P>
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136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JUDGE GORDON N. MOTT AN UNCLE OF THE AUTHOR</P>
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136.sgm:<P>Election of Fairfax as assemblyman from Yuba County occurred in 1852, and he served in two sessions, 1853 and 1854.  In the second year he was speaker of the house.  In 1856 he was named to the supreme court office.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Harvey Lee, who had represented El Dorado County in the ligislature, was appointed as reporter of decisions of the supreme court, and the action of Governor Weller in naming him was not popular.  Lee and Fairfax met on March 25, 1859, in front of the old St. George Hotel in Sacramento and Lee upbraided Fairfax, the latter, during the quarrel, slapping Lee.  Lee was carrying a sword cane, which he promptly unsheathed and ran through Fairfax, piercing a lung.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Fairfax, even though badly wounded--mortally, he thought, drew a derringer and covered Lee, who cried, "Don't kill me; I'm unarmed!"  The wounded man held his fire and in words that burned told him: "You miserable coward, you have murdered me--you have assassinated me; I have your worthless life in my hands; but for the sake of your wife and children I shall spare you."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Witnesses urged Fairfax to kill Lee, but he refused and repeated, even more stingingly, what he had said.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Charlie Fairfax made his last public appearance in 1868.  He was a delegate from California to the democratic national convention in Tammany Hall in New York on July 4, that year, when Seymour and Blair were nominated.  He died in Baltimore, April 6, 1869, a few months after the convention.  The wound Lee inflicted was at least partially responsible for his death, as it had never healed.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Lee moved to Amador County and represented that and Alpine County in the assembly for awhile, being elected in 1865.  He was in 1866 appointed by Governor Low as one of the judges of the new judicial court, but never took the office.  On August 19 of that year he was driving a spirited team at Agricultural Park, then just outside Sacramento, when his vehicle collided with a post and he was almost instantly killed.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Fairfax was a lawyer and practiced in San Francisco after leaving here.  He had a wonderful country estate, called "Bird Nest Glen," in Marin County, three miles north of San Rafael.  His widow lost this property and moved to Fort Ross, which he had owned, but this was lost as a result of her lavish entertaining there.  Eventually she died while occupying a government position that was provided for her in Washington.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Fairfax was a second to Colonel Richard Rust in the famous duel in Marysville, in 1852, between Rust and Judge Stidger.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As a young man, I often heard my father speak of Charlie Fairfax.  My uncle, Judge Reardan, and Fairfax were great friends; and this uncle named one of his sons Fairfax Reardan, but he always went by the name of Fax Reardan.</P>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Black Bart, Stage Robber</P>
136.sgm:<P>A Train Robbery</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE exploits of Black Bart used to give us young fellows a great thrill; I guess we used to look upon him more as a hero than an ordinary stage robber.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Black Bart, "The Po8" was not a train robber.  He confined himself to stages.  Twenty-one or more holdups were attributed to him.  He carried a shotgun, which he used to intimidate the drivers and passengers of stages, but it was said the gun never was loaded.  He never shot at a stage or those on it, although shots were fired at him.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In his last robbery, near Copperopolis, on November 3, 1883, a boy on horseback had been traveling along with the stage for awhile and had then dropped back.  He was carrying a gun.  This boy came upon the scene while the robbery was in progress and the driver motioned the boy who, unobserved, passed him the gun.  Black Bart fled, dropping a handkerchief.  The laundry mark on this led to his capture.  It was found to be the mark of a San Francisco laundry, and the customer's name was found by a Wells Fargo detective to be Charles E. Bolton, supposed to be a mining man.  He lived at the Webb House on Second Street, and was highly respected.  It was learned though that he was also known as Barlow and Spaulding.  His right name, found in his Bible, was Charles E. Boles.  He was a Union veteran and had a wife and daughter in Hannibal, Missouri.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After his six years' sentence, Black Bart was released January 22, 1888, having been a good prisoner, getting the benefits of credits, which reduced his time four years and two months.  "Never again," he said to reporters as he left the prison.  Nothing was heard of him (of an incrimination) after that.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Black Bart began operating in 1875.  Before a robbery he usually appeared in the vicinity as a quiet, gentlemanly stranger.  After the robberies he might be present for a day or so, then dropped from sight.  He held up the La Porte-Oroville stage early in the series, getting $50.00, a gold watch and the mail.  A few months later he repeated on the same route.  In November, 1880, after robbing two stages near Yreka, he was traced to near Oroville, but was lost.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Early in 1881 he robbed a stage between Marysville and Downieville.  In June, 1882, he stopped the Oroville-LaPorte stage again and the express messenger, George Hackett, riding up in front, fired twice, grazing the bandit's scalp with buckshot.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After his capture, Boles told officers he had often been in Marysville while on his robbery pilgrimages, but no one ever took him for a bandit.  Until he was identified by the laundry mark in San Francisco he had been above suspicion.  He had lived there as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>He generally left some "poetry" at each robbery, as a sample,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Here I lay me down to sleep,<LB>To wait the coming morrow,<LB>Perhaps success, perhaps defeat<LB>And everlasting sorrow.<LB>I've labored long and hard for bread,<LB>For honor and for riches,<LB>But on my corns too long you've tread,<LB>You fine haired sons of bitches.<LB>Let come what will, I'll try it on,<LB>My condition can't be worse,<LB>And if there's money in that box<LB>'Tis money in my purse.</HI>
136.sgm:<P>BLACK BART, The Po8.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A TRAIN ROBBERY</P>
136.sgm:<P>About 1895 Marysville had a train robbery.  It ended the careers of the bandits and of Sheriff J. J. Bogard of Tehama County, who was a passenger.  The Oregon Express train of the Southern Pacific was approaching at night from the south when Browning and Brady, notorious killers, stopped the train by crawling over the tender into the cab and menacing the engineer and fireman with guns.  They fired shots to force the passengers to let them into the express car, but they were unable to open the safe.</P>
136.sgm:<P>One bandit led the way into the passenger cars and the other drove the engine crew ahead with sacks into which passengers were ordered to drop their valuables.  Shots were fired when some of the passengers started to flee.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The porter, robbed of a watch, sneaked out behind and ran along the train to a car where Sheriff Bogard was asleep.  Bogard put on his guns and went through the train until he came to where the robbers were at work.  He shot Browning through the heart, but before he could fire past the engine men a bullet from Brady's gun killed him.  The same bullet wounded the fireman.  Brady fled, leaving his booty and firing on the passengers as he went, wounding several.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A bicycle the escaped bandit used was found and led to his capture and he was sentenced to life in prison.</P>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Historic Yuba Dam</P>
136.sgm:<P>ABOUT 2 miles southeast of Marysville in a bend of the present Hammonton Road is the old site of a small settlement which existed in early days and was known as "Yuba Dam" and made famous by Bret Harte.  Nothing now remains to mark the old location except a large pecan tree.  In early days there were no bridges crossing the Yuba River; there was, however, a ferry for crossing the Yuba River at the south end of E Street to the south areas; but on the east of town, the Yuba River was about one and a half miles southeast of its present channel on the Simpson Lane, the old original Yuba channel being about one quarter mile westerly of the old site of "Yuba Dam."  Another ferry was operated by a man named Simpson, from whom Simpson Lane took its name.  Floods and mining debris have entirely altered old conditions and where the old river channel used to be, a large peach orchard now is growing, known as the Yuba Dam Ranch, owned by my two friends, R. R. Stowell and S. F. Weiser.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The following story attributed to Bret Harte, recounts the experience of an early day pioneer who passed through the old "Yuba Dam" settlement on his way to the mining area to the east.  Here is the poem:</P>
136.sgm:<P>YUBA DAM <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Of Yuba Dam, the story's told,<LB>It may be false, it may be true,<LB>How Jones in search of placer gold<LB>Chanced in the town while it was new.<LB>He saw a man upon a fence,<LB>The usual chills and fever type,<LB>Who sat and watched the lizards play<LB>And smoked a vilely smelling pipe.<LB>"What place is this?  My friend," said Jones,<LB>"I think I've somehow lost my way,<LB>"I left this morn the Billings Ranch,<LB>"I seek the prospect, Break of Day."<LB>Still puffing at his corncob pipe,<LB>The native looked the stranger o'er,<LB>Then, in a low and peevish voice,<LB>Said "Yuba Dam"--just that, no more.</HI>
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136.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">Astounded at the answer given,<LB>Jones asked once more, in terms polite,<LB>"Please tell me what this place is called,<LB>"I did not get the answer right."<LB>Taking his pipe from out his mouth,<LB>The more tobacco in to cram,<LB>The native said "I told you once,<LB>"You must be deaf, it's Yuba Dam."<LB>The fighting blood of Jones rose up.<LB>He dropped his neck and seized the man,<LB>"You goldarned bunch of bones," he said,<LB>"I'll teach you to say `You be dam'!"<LB>The Native came down from the fence<LB>And hit the earth an awful slam,<LB>But while Jones rolled him in the dust,<LB>He feebly muttered "Yuba Dam."<LB>The contest o'er, his honor cleared,<LB>But angry still, Jones took his way.<LB>He saw a little girl at play<LB>At a cottage near the road.<LB>"My dear," said Jones, in sweetest tones,<LB>"Please name the town in which you dwell.<LB>"This two-bit piece I mean for you<LB>"When your town's name you rightly tell."<LB>The child looked up with bashful grace<LB>And shyly eyed the stranger man,<LB>One finger in her mouth,<LB>And softly lisped, "Oo be Dam."<LB>"Good God!" said Jones, "I'll ask no more.<LB>"Helltown's the name the place should bear<LB>"Where little children, sweet and mild,<LB>"At inoffensive strangers swear!"</HI>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Business Experience</P>
136.sgm:<P>WHEN I graduated from the High School, I informed my father of my desire to go to college and take up an engineering course of study; he listened attentively to my plans and then told me to come down to the store next morning; this gave me hopes that I had made a favorable impression.  When I reached the store next morning he gave me a nice new bucket, a nice new sponge and a nice new chamois skin and said, "Now Bill, you are on the payroll and let's see what kind of a window washer you are."  There were many glass windows and partitions in that large store; I felt rather depressed and disappointed but concluded that he was just "trying me out" and if I worked hard, during the next two summer months, he might conclude to let me go to college, so for the next two months, I was very industrious but I never got to that college.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Father had a janitor, a colored man by the name of Henry Clay, who had been with him for quite a number of years and Henry Clay was much perturbed at first, thinking that he had possibly lost his job to me, but he was evidently "tipped off" by Father as the next day, Henry Clay took me in charge and kept me busy all day and every day on various clean-up jobs; in fact, whenever I finished one job, Henry Clay seemed always waiting with another job for me--he never gave me a chance to loaf a minute.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When my first two months were up, Father informed me that I had apparently mastered the job of janitor and I was to be promoted to the position of "roustabout" which position consisted of helping load and unload wagons and drays and trucking grain, etc., which latter was pretty hard work for awhile until I became accomplished in loading five sacks of wheat, etc., on a hand truck and moving them about without prematurely dumping the load, which I did quite often at first, to the evident enjoyment of the other employees.  From this position, I was advanced to an assistant behind the sales counter, learning prices, how to wait on customers and take orders, and gradually worked up to head salesman in the retail department.  From there, I was advanced to the wholesale department and after I had become proficient in that department, I was sent out on my first trip with a buckboard and span of horses to visit some of our customers who had stores in the mountain area, as a "drummer," and from whom we enjoyed a good business.</P>
136.sgm:<P>At that time we were doing a large business; we had a retail business of about $200,000 per year; a wholesale business of about $350,000 per year, and besides, we did also a very large business in buying and selling grain; we had grain warehouses situated at Marysville, Ostrom (then Reeds) Station, Oswald and Tudor where we conducted a grain storage business.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>When I first commenced to work at the store, the hours were long.  The store opened at 6:00 A.M. and closed at 9:00 P.M. and Sundays we kept open from 8:00 A.M. till noon.  A few years afterwards, I "connived" with other clerks in other stores in town and we put on pressure to close at 6:00 P.M. which met with strong opposition from the store-keeper but we "put it over."  Still later, we used similar "persuasion" and got stores to cease keeping open on Sunday mornings; this clerks' association I rather imagine was the first "labor union" in town so possibly I am entitled to the distinction of having not only formed the first Labor Union, but was the first "President" of a Labor Union in Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As an example of their frugality, there was one farmer who lived south of town; when he came to Yuba County, he was first a school teacher at Wheatland; he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:purchased a small tract of land in the red dirt district and used to walk back and forth from his ranch to the school, a distance of about six miles each way; he saved his money and purchased some more land and gave up teaching; he raised grain, made money and kept purchasing until eventually he owned several thousand acres.  He did all his trading with our firm; he came in every Saturday for supplies and almost always had something which he had raised on the ranch to "trade" with.  At our office we always took the local and a San Francisco newspaper and I always placed them to one side and when he came in Saturdays, he would ask, "Well Billie, have you some newspapers for me?"  When he died he left an estate over $200,000.  Another large farmer lived in the Cordua District; he also had accumulated until he had a very large grain ranch; he had two grown sons who did hard work on the ranch; he also made it his custom to come in and get his supplies on Saturdays, the two boys rarely coming in with him.  One Saturday, I sold him his supplies and one of the things he said "the boys" had told him to be sure and get, was a 25 pound tub of butter as they were all out; he asked the price and I told him and he said "Oh my, oh my, but butter is awfully high," and then said, with a twinkle in his eye, "I won't take any butter this week Billie and I will tell the boys I <HI REND="italics">forgot</HI>
136.sgm:<P>After the floods of 1904, 1907 and 1909, and even before those flood years, the business district had continued to stay largely between First and Fourth Streets; the uncertainty of security caused every business man to be satisfied to remain in his old location.  But after the last three flood years mentioned above and the Levee Commission had so raised and strengthened the levees that they felt security, they took my statement, "that if ever a flood came, which possibly would be big enough to flood all the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys, that there would still remain two dry spots, and they would be Marysville and the Sutter Buttes."  The old town "commenced to put on airs," the new hotel was built on Fifth Street, the residential district north of Fourth Street became changed to business property, many merchants wanted to and did "move up town," valuations and rents were accordingly reduced "down town," and when also the "big depression" came upon us, I found that the combination of my efforts to make the town safe from floods, plus the "depression" and "fire" had resulted in a "wave" of business activity to the north and that the recession of that "wave" had left our main holding, the "Ellis Block," "high and dry on a sand bar" to the south.  The joke was on me; I was "holding the bag" and then came my experience with my first and only law suit.  But that's another story in another chapter to follow.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As for my experience in the mercantile business, I had commenced as a janitor in 1880, gradually worked up all "rounds of the ladder" until 1889, when I became a part owner with my father, firm name becoming W. T. Ellis &amp; Son; later on, in 1895 the mercantile business was incorporated under the same name and I became general <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>For several years, after I had retired from the mercantile business, my old employees used to arrange each Spring for an annual picnic where we would all have a reunion and jolly time, some coming from considerable distances to attend; they used to call it the "Old Ellis Company's Employees' Picnic" and quite naturally I always felt quite complimented by these events.</P>
136.sgm:<P>During my business experience, I have employed many persons, but almost all of them stayed in our employ for many years; there were few changes and only one, a man in whom we had the greatest confidence, failed me, having been proven dishonest for many years; he was simply discharged.  As for women employees in our office, they were always uniformly dependable, capable and very loyal to our interests.  And speaking of women, it has oft times been said that a woman cannot keep a secret as well as a man; I disagree with any such theory, my experience has been that women can keep secrets and much more so than men.  Only last summer in London, Prime Minister Stanley Baldwin remarked that he had "never known leakage of information due to a woman," but that he had "known leakages through men who should have known a great deal better."  Some months ago, the President's Supreme Court decision came as a surprise to the nation, but a woman had helped to formulate it and knew it inside out, weeks, even months before--Marguerite Le Hand, the President's private secretary.  I believe that women and particularly women in business life, have always kept secrets and are particularly vigilant in detecting lies and in this connection, it has been said that "the first lie detector was made from the rib of a man."  Why, take Eve for example; it has been said that she may have given Adam away, but she never told the snake's story of how he found out about the Tree of Knowledge--and of course she asked him, because all women are curious.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Experience as a Traveling Salesman</P>
136.sgm:<P>TRAVELING salesmen in those days used to be called "drummers"; they were selected by their employers, not only for their ability as salesmen, but also for their ability to be "hail fellows well met"; most of them would have a fund of "good stories" to regale, and be able to "hold their liquor well," as in those days this counted very considerably.  They were also allowed liberal "expense money," which in their reports went under the head of "entertainment"; some of the most successful of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Taking example, however, from the drummers with whom I had become acquainted, when I was first sent out on a "drumming expedition" through the mountains by my father, I decided to emulate them.</P>
136.sgm:<P>My first trip was through the mountain towns, where we did a large business, both retail and wholesale.  In those days, the roads were practically impassable during the winter months, the main traffic being by stages, which largely carried the mails and Wells Fargo &amp; Company Express shipments; in the summer, of course, the roads could be traveled, but they were very rough and the dust would be about a foot deep; it was very unpleasant and slow going.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I started my first trip in the month of May, my conveyance being a "buck-board" vehicle, drawn by two horses.  I started very early in the morning and my first stopping place was at Dobbins where I called on the old firm of Slingsby &amp; Gettens (now J. C. Merriam &amp; Son Co.).  William Slingsby was an Englishman and Daniel Gettens was an Irishman.  Everyone knew them as just plain Bill and Dan, but to Dan, Slingsby was always Billie.  Slingsby was the real business head of the firm and Gettens filled orders, looked out for the loading of wagons and very small pack mules which were called "burros," and used where goods had to be taken over steep and narrow trails to their destination; it was remarkable the amount of load these sure-footed, patient animals could transport and it was a real art, how these heavy and sometimes bulky loads could be strapped to their backs and never come loosened; sometimes these loads would look as large as the animal itself.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Both Bill Slingsby and Dan Gettens were fine types of men; Dan was a "diamond in the rough" and had a wonderful sense of good old Irish humor.  Many years after, when he died, I went to his funeral; he had left instructions that he did not want any "fancy hearse" to take him to the little cemetery on the nearby hill; he wanted to be buried in a plain coffin and be taken to the cemetery in the old store wagon, drawn by his two pet mules, and his instructions were implicitly carried out.  There was a very large concourse of people, both from the hills and the valley who came to the funeral, all waiting around in groups in the road for the Catholic priest to come; he was a little late in arriving from Smartsville.  This was Father Toomey, who was known far and wide and was beloved by everyone.  He often called on me at my office, he was always joking and full of humor and I loved to listen to his rich Irish "brogue."  As Father Toomey drove up the road, as he recognized various persons, he would call out, "Hello Jim," "Hello <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Many of these mountain stores had a small bar at the rear and, following the usual mountain custom, after I had exchanged salutations with the two proprietors, Dan invited me to the bar to have a drink "on the house" with him.  After this little "ceremony," again following the usual mountain custom, I invited every one in the store to "belly up and have a drink with me," which invitation was always accepted by all those present; straight whisky almost always being called for, and sometimes a cigar.  Should any one present refuse the invitation, it was taken by those present to mean that the party refusing had some unfriendly feeling to the party extending the invitation.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>The following morning, I proceeded to the "Mountain House," situated on a high ridge about 4500 feet altitude and where the then road forked, one going easterly to Forest City, Alleghany, etc., the other road, leading north, down the canyon, a distance of about eight miles to Goodyear's Bar, thence to Downieville, Sierra City and beyond.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Before reaching the Mountain House, I stopped at Nigger Tent, where we had a customer, a Frenchwoman by the name of Mother Romargie; she ran a roadhouse with a bar and always had several Spanish girls about.  The place had a very unsavory reputation; several miners, who had been known to be "headed" for this place, rather well supplied with "dust" or coin, had mysteriously "disappeared," but probably, having no relatives, nothing was ever done about it.  When I stopped and hitched up my team and told Mother Romargie who I was, she seemed pleased to know me and immediately "treated"; of course, I reciprocated and invited the girls and a couple of men present to "have one on me," in fact, they had "several on me" before I left (with an order from her) which made me a little late arriving at the Mountain House.  On future trips I always stopped at Mother Romargie's place and once, getting caught in a heavy rainstorm, I remained all night, had a pleasant evening dancing with the Spanish girls, one of whom played the guitar, and I managed never to "disappear."</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was a Saturday evening when I reached the Mountain House and my stop at Mother Romargie's had made me late for "supper."  However the proprietor, Dan T. Cole was an old time friend of my father and the Chinese cook very promptly had a repast ready, sufficient for several men.  The Mountain House was a very large frame building and Dan T. Cole "was monarch of all he surveyed" in that territory.  While he ran a roadhouse, which meant a stopping place for large freighting teams, his principal business was logging and each year he did a very large business in this line, employing a large number of men, expert as "loggers."  As usual, there was a bar and the place had the reputation of serving about the best meals in the mountains.  Dan Cole was very tall (about six feet six inches), angular, but well built, had eyes as "sharp as a hawk's" and a "poker face."  He was a Democrat and a political power in the hills and, in later years was appointed a Harbor Commissioner of San Francisco, and it was when he was on this Commission, that the present large Ferry Building was constructed and his name and two others are still to be seen on the large granite "cornerstone" at the front of the building.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The evening's entertainment was always poker and as this was Saturday night, the game had commenced when I arrived.  The Chinese cook, after he had furnished my meal, hastily returned to the poker game, as both he and Dan had the reputation of being about the best poker players in the mountain; in fact, it was rumored that between Dan and his Chinese cook, much of the wages of the loggers went back to the house, after they had been paid off on Saturday night.  I watched the game and spent some of the evening talking with Dan's two grand-daughters, who were frequently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>The next morning I drove down hill, a distance of about four miles in a straight line but about eight miles by road, to Goodyear's Bar, situated on the north fork of the Yuba River, where we had several customers, among them a man by the name of John Saunderhaus.  Some years later a son of this man called on my father at our store and said he was quite sure he knew where there was a good prospect for a quartz ledge and asked for credit for a "grub stake"; as this family always had a good reputation for paying their bills, the accommodation was granted; young Saunderhaus went on his prospecting tour and discovered what was afterward named the Young America Mine, which proved to be a great producer and young Saunderhaus sold it out for about one million dollars.  Young Saunderhaus was an immense and powerful man; he stood about six and a half feet high, weighed about two hundred and sixty pounds, but was well proportioned.  He got to be a "play boy," became very friendly with a young millionaire of San Francisco named Jimmie Dunphy and the twain used to put on some wild parties.  They used always to attend annual conventions of the Native Sons of the Golden West and delight in buying champagne for the entire convention; money meant nothing to them, but old "John Barleycorn" cut their careers short.</P>
136.sgm:<P>But I have been diverging from the story of my mountain trip.  After leaving Goodyear's Bar, I drove next to Downieville, a distance of about twelve miles.  Downieville then was mighty lively litte town, lots of stores, many more saloons and gambling houses.  Being Sunday, it had more than the usual number of visiting miners and, of course, practically all places of business were open; if there were any closed, I did not see them.  The narrow street (just as it is today) was crowded with people, the sidewalks unable to accommodate them.  After I had "put up" at the St. Charles Hotel (still there), I crossed the street to call on our principal customer, Spaulding, Mowry &amp;Co., the "Co" part of the firm being "Billy Holmes."  I was not a stranger, having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>That night I had an experience which I have never forgotten but which resulted in me getting a lot of orders, but what this experience was, I will tell in another chapter.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It took me two days to finish up my soliciting at Downieville and then I left for Sierra City, Tirey Ford accompanying me.  I had good success there as Ford introduced me as a fellow "Clamper" and that seemed to bring in orders easily.  That evening, Ford said, "Let's go up and dance `jigger'," and when I asked for an explanation, he said "Wait and see."  We went up the side hill from Sierra City and a short way up there was a very large building used as a dance hall.  On one end of the building was a very long bar with several bartenders apparently doing a thriving business; all around the hall were rough wooden benches and as we entered, numerous couples were dancing.  Many of them I might say, were attempting to dance, some groups having a regular old time "hoe down," but all apparently having a good time.  In the center of the room, suspended from the ceiling was a large circular iron frame with, I believe, three coal oil lamps for light, and on the back of the bar were about three coal oil lamps with tin reflectors.  The orchestra consisted of a banjo, violin, guitar and a wheezy horn which, however, made fairly good music, a polka being the prevailing dance when we entered.  The majority present were men, a number being seated on the benches, some talking with Spanish girls.  Ford and I moved up to the bar and immediately some of the Spanish girls followed us there and we invited them to have a drink.  After a few "rounds" we each picked a girl and joined in the dance.  The dances were very short, and after each dance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>It was about 1:00 A.M. and Ford and I were having a good time with our partners, who stuck to us like glue, when two men, rather intoxicated, got into an argument near the center of the hall.  One had a bottle of beer in his hand and attempted to strike the other fellow on the head with it, but a by-stander, in an attempt to prevent the blow, caused the bottle to fly out of his hand, and the bottle was deflected to the coal oil lamps above, causing them to crash to the floor, where ready feet prevented any fire.  Someone, it sounded as if it was in the rear of the hall, fired a shot, which I afterwards believed was a call for the hall's "boosters" to come and stop the fracas.  However, at the time, it looked as if it was going to be a "free for all"; I grabbed my girl and stepping up on a wall bench, kicked out the flimsy window sash and out the window I went, draging my partner with me, followed by Ford and his partner, who had been standing close by when the fracas commenced.  The "scrap" was soon settled and we went back to the hall, my partner taking advantage of the fact that the broken glass in the window had made some rents in her dress which she claimed "ruined" it and I "came through" with her demand for $10.00 without any argument, knowing that these Spanish girls had quick tempers and a bad habit of having a nice little sharp dagger attached to their garters.  It rather spoiled the balance of the evening for me, but no one else seemed to pay much attention to the little fracas; it was "just one of those things" rather expected to occur.</P>
136.sgm:<P>From Sierra City, I went over the Yuba Pass, to Bassett's, Sierraville, thence down the Mohawk Valley to Quincy, thence home via Oroville.  It took me twelve days, which Father considered too long but after turning in my orders and telling him of my various experiences, which gave him a lot of amusement, he remarked that now that I had had my "initiation," perhaps I could make better time next trip, which from then on was every Spring and Fall and covering more territory than I did on my first trip.  Every one of those mining camps was lively those days, the miners making plenty of "clean ups"; it "came easy and went easy," very largely over the gambling tables and the bars and no one seemed to worry about the future.  In recent years, I have visited many of these old mining camps, some of which in early days boasted of a large population.  They are now "Ghost Towns."  It was saddening and depressing seeing them and at the same time remembering them as they were in their heyday of prosperity; the "days of gold and the days of 49" are now only memories.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Later on, we worked up a good wholesale business on the line of the railroad, as far <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Experience with the Lodge of E Clampus Vitus</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN A previous chapter, I have mentioned that I first joined this lodge on my first business trip to Downieville, having been advised that it was necessary to be a member of this lodge if I expected to obtain any business with the merchants.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The night I joined, the meeting was held in quite a large hall, and there must have been about one hundred men present.  When the proceedings were about to commence and the meeting called to order by the presiding officer, whose title was "Noble Grand Humbug," those present were seriously admonished to keep quiet and preserve due decorum during the initiation.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I was then led out by two husky men and was stationed before the Noble Grand Humbug, who proceeded to ask my name, my age, my occupation and this was followed by some very embarrassing questions.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The Noble Grand Humbug, then addressed those assembled and asked them in a loud voice, if in their opinion I had answered all questions in a satisfactory manner and asked, "What is the will of the lodge?"  In unison and with practically one voice, all those present roared, "Initiate the Son of a B--."  They all then joined in a song, which commenced as follows;-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"You will get all that is coming to you,<LB>And a damn sight more before you are through--"</HI>
136.sgm:<P>(I will not give the rest of the song for obvious reasons.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>I have still a very vivid recollection that they DID initiate me and for about two hours I was put through various hazings, from being dropped from a coffin suspended in the air with a trick opening bottom, into a tank of cold water, to crawling through what was called a "noiseless cavern," which consisted of a long pipe, just wide enough to crawl through and when I got about the middle of the pipe, several husky fellows, commenced to roll it back and forth the hall's length, all the time belaboring the tank with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>As far as I can learn, this lodge of E Clampus Vitus started in the mountain areas for amusement purposes during the long winter months, when snows prevented mining and when there was little or no communication with the outside world except the mails.  Several of the larger mountain towns had their separate lodges and they really did a lot of charitable work.  I remember that at Downieville one time, a miner was accidentally killed, leaving a wife and several children; a meeting of the full membership of the Lodge was called and every one was expected to contribute to a charity fund which was at once turned over to the widow amounting to several hundred dollars.</P>
136.sgm:<P>However, my "initiation" was not forgotten and I swore to get even on some one and shortly afterwards, I helped to start a lodge of E Clampus Vitus in Marysville.  We had a large hall of the second story of the present brick building at the southeast corner of D and First Streets; we raised funds and had a complete set of necessary paraphernalia, obtained a copy of the "ritual" from Downieville and were "ready for business."  It wasn't long before most all business men and their clerks had joined the lodge.  We initiated candidates quite often, mostly drummers, and we made agreements for quite a long while between the business houses, that drummers had to "belong to the lodge" if they wanted to get orders.  Almost every week we would have an initiation and every member knew when a "sucker" was had for an initiation that evening, when the "hewgag" sounded, which sounded like a fog horn and could be well heard over town.  A minister of a certain church heard about the lodge's "doings" and took exceptions to their practices and complained that most of these initiations were on Sunday evenings, so on one Sunday evening, he gave a sermon on the absence of men at church and exclaimed, "Where, oh where are our young men tonight" and just at that moment, the hewgag was heard with its weird and mournful sound, and many in the congregation were unable to refrain from laughing, as that sound of the hewgag was sufficient answer as to "Where, oh where are our young men tonight."</P>
136.sgm:<P>This first lodge was practically "put out of business" on account of the publicity in many newspapers of the State because of an initiation of an English Lord; this was on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>A few of us thought we saw an opportunity for some amusement, so a committee from the Clamper's Lodge called on the young Lord and told him that if he would give another show the following night, that we would guarantee the theatre rental and some other expenses and would go out and sell tickets and perhaps make him some money, BUT, he would have to join the Clamper's Lodge that evening.  He consented and "he got what was coming to him and a damn sight more before he was through," the same as I had in Downieville; the lodge hall was packed, we had tickets printed and sold them to those present, appointed committees to go out and sell more tickets and the following evening, the theatre was packed full and he and his show left town rejoicing.  All the newspapers in the State had accounts of his initiation and it gave him a lot of free advertising and he made a successful tour to New York.  After his initiation in the Lodge room, he was called on for a speech and he said;-- "Brother Clampers; I say, you are a rum lot of chappies, I can't say that I really enjoyed this very extraordinary initiation you have just inflicted upon me, but you tell me that this is the usual thing in California and as I have always heard that California was wild and woolly, I know now that it is so and I will always remember you and this Lodge and I want to tell you that I really appreciate what you are going to do for me tomorrow by helping me out of a blasted financial hole and I thank you, by Jove I do."  He was a "good sport," but he put our Lodge "out of business" as we could get no more "suckers" to join after that because of the newspaper publicity over the State.  In after years, Clampers' lodges were started at various times, but without much success as candidates were too few and far between.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Orchard and Vineyard Experience (1916-1927)</P>
136.sgm:<P>ONE of the holdings of the W. T. Ellis Co. was about 600 acres of land situated about four miles north of Marysville in District No. 10.  We divided this property into two holdings by a road, 40 feet in width, one mile long, and made a tender of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>The 320 acres we retained, were leased for farming for several years and then, as the fruit and raisin business was yielding big profits to growers and the business appeared to have a bright future, we decided to plant out 45 acres to prunes and about 90 acres to seedless grapes.  To make this development, with necessary buildings, wells, pumping plants, underground irrigation systems, etc., required a large investment; it looked like a good investment and the banker who loaned us the money thought so too, and we hoped in a few years to "clean up."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Our first crop of Thompson seedless raisins was a good one and sold for 18 1/2&cent; per pound; our first crop of prunes also brought high prices, "but alas and alack," two years later, "the tide began to turn," prices commenced to drop, frosts did heavy damage for a couple of years, and after eleven years of this experience, I came to the conclusion that it would be well to "quit the game," which I did.  I traded the ranch for a six story concrete appartment house near Jones and Pine Streets in San Francisco, the buyer and seller each assuming mortgages on the respective properties; my two daughters were installed as managers of the apartment house.  The apartment house business was quite good when we first had it, the income grossing about $2500.00 a month.  Then the depression came on, resulting in necessary rent reductions, vacancies, etc., and I finally turned the property over to the mortgage holder, getting a few thousand dollars for my equity, and charged off a good loss to "experience."</P>
136.sgm:<P>I really believe, however, that I added possibly ten years to my life while operating the ranch; I had a first class foreman, L. J. Fallon, and as I knew nothing about the orchard and vineyard game, he permitted me to be manager of a large vegetable garden we had for our kitchen use and from the exercise with a hoe, shovel, rake and doing other chores, I managed to regain my "youthful figure" by reducing from 220 pounds to 185 and have managed to keep at the latter figure ever since; so I have no complaint, even though it was a mighty expensive flesh reducing experience.</P>
136.sgm:<P>There was a saying at that time, "that a farmer was a man who made his money on the ranch and spent his money in the City, while an agriculturist, was a man, who made his money in the City and spent it on a ranch in the country"; well I decided that as a farmer, I was a prize winning "agriculturist."</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>System of New Year's Calls</P>
136.sgm:<P>WHEN I was a young man, on New Year's Day many of the people in town would "keep open house" as it was called and, commencing in the afternoon and lasting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Of course, the ladies who had their homes open for their friends, would mostly remain at home to receive and entertain their callers, it being the "men folks" who usually made the round of calls; it was really a very delightful custom and remained in vogue for many years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>With some other "young blades," who wanted to do our calling in "style and show some class," several of us would usually engage an open hack (called a landau) and with a driver and a fine span of horses, make the round of many homes during the afternoon, usually reserving the evening calls at the homes where several young ladies would congregate to assist the hostess in receiving, and where more fun would be had.  Every home would have some titbits in the way of eatables and usually some liquid refreshments, such as light wines or beer.  Oysters were very popular in those days and at some of the homes a very large block of ice would be in evidence with its center scooped out, making a large bowl and in which large eastern oysters were deposited, ready to serve.  If, during our calling, liquid refreshments were not entirely to our taste and satisfaction, we would make occasional stops at Dan Donahoe's Mint Saloon on Third Street, and still further refresh ourselves with a bottle or so of imported French champagne and decide which were the next few places to call on; this was usually necessary to revive our drooping spirits because of "the previous New Year's eve celebration."  We had lots of good fun.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Skating on Ellis Lake</P>
136.sgm:<P>ON JANUARY 7th, 1888, a cold spell commenced all over the State; there was quite a heavy fall of snow in Los Angeles on January 9th.  Ellis Lake began to have a coating of ice on portions of the Lake and as the cold spell persisted, the ice finally covered the Lake until on January 17th, the ice was from three to four inches thick and scores of people were gliding about on it.  One man in town had ice skates which he had brought with him from the East and was an excellent skater; he rigged up a sled and skated about, drawing the sled after him with his fiancee on it, taking a ride; he was the "pride of the town" and it was the first, in fact the last time, I had ever seen any one on ice skates.  The cold snap was not broken until January 21st; the thermometer registered 24 degrees on January 7th, the lowest reading being 18 degrees on January 14th.  On January 18th the ice commenced to crack and become dangerous so the City authorities opened the flood gates in the levee at E and 15th Streets and permitted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RESIDENCE ERECTED BY JOHN C. FALL IN 1855 NOW OWNED BY MR. RICHARD BELCHER</P>
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136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RESIDENCE BUILT IN 1851 BY J. M. RAMIREZ, ONE OF THE FOUNDERS OF MARYSVILLE AND KNOWN FOR MANY YEARS AS "THE CASTLE" NOW THE HOME OF THE AUTHOR</P>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Four Homes I Have Lived In</P>
136.sgm:<P>I WAS born in the old home which is still standing at the northwest corner of D and 8th Streets.  My father had purchased the residence from Colonel E. Ransome, who had built it.  He bought the residence in 1863 at public auction for only $2800.00.  Property at that time was very cheap after the big flood of 1861-62 and the rapid filling of the rivers with mining debris.  At that time it was a square two-story brick building with large bay windows on each of the four corners, the first floor having a large hall, leading through the entire house, with a large billiard room on the south side of the hallway and with a parlor and dining room on the north side; there was a very graceful curved stairway leading to the second story, where there were four large bedrooms and a bath room.  There was a large cupola over the roof, which permitted plenty of circulation of air and afforded lots of light to the hallway below; all around the top of the exterior walls, were brick battlements, standing about four feet high; these battlements and cupola were removed in later years when a new roof was installed.  There was a very large basement under the house with brick floors, a portion of which was the kitchen, the balance being used for storage purposes; meals from the kitchen to the dining room above were conveyed through an opening in the floor called a "dumb waiter."</P>
136.sgm:<P>This home, as most others in those days, had a deep dug well for a water supply and, about thirty feet away, a deep dug sump for sewage disposal.  This made an ideal combination for various epidemics of which we children had our share; the town had a bad reputation for "malaria" and as for mosquitoes--well they just thrived everywhere.  Every one of our beds was covered with a canopy of mosquito bar netting suspended from the ceiling, but even that did not keep the mosquitoes out.  They managed in some way during the day to get under the netting, so the usual thing to do when going to bed, was to investigate the interior of the canopy, a candle in hand, and endeavor to kill what mosquitoes we could find there.  I have often since wondered how we managed never to set fire to the netting.  I presume that we should have taken the advice of Mark Twain who, about that time in one of his books said, that to get away from the mosquitoes when he went to bed, was to get in the bed and leave one small opening in the lower part of the mosquito netting, so that all the mosquitoes could follow him in and when they had all gotten under the mosquito bar, he would crawl out of bed, close the opening in the mosquito bar and then roll up and go to sleep on the floor.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>Father owned a full half block, the north half reaching the (then) lake shore; the very large garden was always well kept with many varieties of trees growing.  There were three "Sequoia Gigantea" (Redwood trees), one of which is still growing and which is about sixty-five feet high.  On the west side, there was a two-story large barn and basement.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1895 I was married and rented one side of a duplex house, belonging to Miss Annabell Carr, north side of 5th Street, between E and F Streets; the other apartment was occupied by Richard Belcher, who had married a short time before.  My wife and I lived there about two years and then moved to the northeast corner of D and 6th Streets, where I had built a home on the site of the "Old Posten School," which in earlier days had had a fine reputation for being "the" school for young ladies desiring a "finishing education."  To show how cheap real estate was in those days, I paid $1000.00 for this property, a full lot, 80 feet on D Street and 160 feet on the north side of 6th Street.  There was a one-story brick school building, also a two-story frame building on the lot; the greater portion of the lot on two sides had a high brick fence or wall, about 8 feet high; I secured enough salvage from these buildings so that the full sized lot only cost me net about $800.00.  I built my house on the west side, making use of 80 feet by 83 feet and then sold off two lots to the east, one to John Hoffstetter and the other one on the alley to William Gern, who built the residences that are still there.  These houses (as well as other houses built about that time) had high basements, all with the idea that they would have their "first floors" high enough to be above any floods which might occur and which was always in every one's mind, and a possibility, as in those days the river bed was still rising with debris deposits each year.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After my father's death, I sold the old home at D and 8th Streets to the Episcopal Church trustees as a possible future site for a new church.  My brother-in-law A. C. Bingham then owned the large brick residence at the corner of 5th and Elm Streets, and after his death my sister rented the residence for a few years and went to live in Los Angeles; afterwards she sold the property to The Ellis Estate Company.  In 1919 I sold my home at 6th and D to Mr. John L. Sullivan and moved to my present home at 5th and Elm Streets.  This is one of the most interesting residence in Marysville.  It was built by one of the original founders of the town, Jose Ramirez who had come from Chile.  As earthquakes are rather frequent in Chile and perhaps having felt a slight one in Yuba County, may account for his building the residence as strongly as he did; the outside and inside partition walls are of brick 30 inches thick; the floors on the second story consist of two layers of brick on a sand foundation, on top of heavy timbered floors, requiring such heavy walls to sustain this great weight.  The lumber in the house also came from Chile and as there was much hard wood there, the same was used in the house here.  The roof now on the building is the same one put on when the building was constructed eighty-five years ago and has never leaked, but an annex, which was built on about twenty years ago and roofed with "modern roofing" has had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RESIDENCE OF W. T. ELLIS SENIOR, ERECTED IN 1855 HOUSE IN WHICH THE AUTHOR WAS BORN</P>
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136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RESIDENCE ERECTED BY WARREN P. MILLER IN 1856 NOW OWNED BY C. F. AARON</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>The house now is furnished with a lot of antique rosewood, mahogany and ebony furniture and five very large mirrors, three of which have very ornate gold frames.  Two of these were purchased by my father when he was first married, the other being presented to my brother-in-law by the Decker-Jewett Bank when he was first married.  It is a very comfortable and commodious house and I take much pleasure in residing there, possibly because I have arrived at an age when I also may be classed as an "antique" and so "fit in" with the house and its contents.  Of all my household possessions, there are two things which I prize particularly, one a "banjo clock" made by Howard &amp; Company of Boston about 1850 and which has always been a wonderful time keeper all these years; it was ticking the hours away, long before I was born and from all appearances, will keep on doing so for many years after I "have passed out of the picture."  The other thing I prize, is an old-fashioned mahogany bed in which I now sleep and in which I was born.  This assertion, I imagine, is one which but few people can make.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Peter Jackson, World's Champion Heavy-Weight Prize Fighter</P>
136.sgm:<P>I WAS always interested in prize fights and wrestling matches; the latter not the kind one sees these days and which do not appeal to me, consisting mostly of manufactured groans and grunts and fake exhibitions.  Whenever Muldoon, the world's famous wrestler came to San Francisco, I never missed going down to see him; those were real bouts.  As for prize fights, the well known fighters generally patronized the large cities.  I was in San Francisco at one time to see a fight between Peter Jackson, the colored champion of the world from Australia, and another fighter (I cannot now recall his name).  I got acquainted with Jackson and invited him to Marysville and guaranteed that it would be financially worth his while (incidentally, I put up $500.00 as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Chinese Tong Wars</P>
136.sgm:<P>TONG wars were more or less frequent and the various tongs took part in these rivalries between the rival Tongs.  Some Chinese did not belong to any of these Tongs but I believe that the greater number of them did.  By being a member of a Tong, a Chinaman felt assured of protection against any impositions by members of other Tongs and if a member of a Tong should for some reason get in straitened circumstances, his Tong would take care of him until "he got on his feet again."  To that extent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>There were two very strong Tongs in Marysville, the Hop Sings and the Suey Sings, both had quite elaborate headquarters.  On one occasion, as I remember it, a prominent member of the Suey Sings had been killed by some unknown but presumed member of the Hop Sings.  The Suey Sings it was reported, had made an immediate demand for some $5,000.00 "blood money" from the Hop Sings and after negotiations the demand had been refused, which meant that it was then necessary for some member of the Hop Sings to pay with his life as a forfeit.  It was pretty generally known about town that trouble was likely to occur but the white population really did not take much interest in these difficulties and the Chinese generally settled their quarrels among themselves, always being careful to see that no person of another race got injured in any way.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Our office was at the corner of D and First Streets and through the large plate glass windows we had a good view of the next three blocks on First Street which was the main center of Chinatown.  We were "keeping an eye open" for developments and one day noticed that there were exceedingly few Chinese to be seen on the sidewalks and concluded that something was about to "pop."  We were not mistaken; as if by pre-arranged agreement, suddenly large numbers of Chinese emerged from the stores and many others on the roofs of the buildings on opposite sides of the street and commenced a fusillade of shooting with pistols; it kept up for about ten minutes and sounded like a Chinese New Year's day, when many long strings of firecrackers were burned, making a terrific din.  With all that mass shooting, there was only one Chinaman killed, as I remember it, the reason being that the Chinamen were always poor marksmen, almost invariably taking no aim, but just "banged away," with their pistols probably aimed in the air or at the ground and "letting fly," usually with their eyes closed and just taking a chance that some one of the other Tong would get hit.  It later developed the people up town thought it was just another Chinese celebration with a lot of firecrackers being burned; we had been enjoying the fun from our office window and did not think of sending word to the police department until it was all over.  Very soon afterwards, all the police accompanied by the sheriff and his deputies appeared on the scene, all "armed to the teeth"; they marched down Chinatown, where every Chinaman had disappeared; they went into stores to obtain information and the only answers they obtained from the Chinese was "no sabbee."  The police and the sheriff and his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>It is not generally known, but many of the plans for the Chinese Republic were "hatched" here in Marysville.  Sun Yat Sin, who later on became the first President of the Chinese Republic, frequently came to Marysville to confer with local leading Chinese, their meetings being held at No. 306 First Street, where was located for many years the well known store of Hong Wo &amp; Co.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After several visits of Sun Yat Sin whom I had the pleasure of meeting on the occasion of one of his visits, the proposed Chinese Republic Flag used to wave from several flag poles in Chinatown.  Later on, the Republic became a fact, mainly through the efforts of Sun Yat Sin, who unfortunately died just about that time from cancer; his remains are now in a magnificent mausoleum in China, which is looked upon as a shrine by the Chinese.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Saturday Night and Sunday Too Club</P>
136.sgm:<P>IT WAS in 1887 that a number of young fellows happened to be together one winter evening for a little social time, which resulted in the formation of a club, to be known as the "Saturday Night &amp; Sunday Too Club."  It was resolved that the membership was to be limited to thirteen and that every Saturday night, the club members would gather at some agreed place, usually in the rear room of some restaurant and have a "feed," followed by a social time, which quite often would last until Sunday night.  The club lasted for several years and we had many jolly good times.  On holidays we generally put on a special "banquet," frequently held in the dining room of some hotel after the dining room was closed to the public, quite often to the discomfort of the guests in the hotel who suffered through loss of sleep.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I have in my scrap book the menu card of one of these occasions on Thanksgiving Day, 1889, and on that certain occasion, I am very positive the guests in the hotel did NOT have much sleep, as we had a brass band from Chico with us at that time.  The number "thirteen" is presumed to be an unlucky number; well perhaps it was to all the other members of the club as all of them have passed away to other "happy hunting grounds," many years ago; for some twenty years, I have been the thirteenth and last surviving member; if any one should ask me the reason why, I believe that I can give them the correct answer.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>A Typical Mountain Fourth of July Celebration</P>
136.sgm:<P>DANCES and celebrations in the mountains were always well attended; people would travel for miles over rough roads on horseback, horse and buggies or stage coaches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE AUTHOR, 1887 WHEN PRESIDENT OF "THE SATURDAY NIGHT AND SUNDAY TOO CLUB"</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MENU OF "SATURDAY NIGHT AND SUNDAY TOO CLUB"</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>On July 4th, 1893 a Fourth of July celebration was advertised to be held at Camptonville and there was a great crowd in attendance, not only from the mountains but from the Valley as well.  Ten of us at Marysville engaged a bus with four horses to take us up very early in the morning, the driver being Noah J. Sligar, a local liveryman.  He was selected because he was a good driver and a sportsman but who never touched liquor; this latter virtue fairly well assured us that we would at least get back home safely.</P>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Our return home to Marysville in our bus that afternoon was uneventful for the very simple reason that we slept (rather uncomfortably) all the way home.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>A Fourth of July Celebration in 1895</P>
136.sgm:<P>SINCE the advent of good roads, the automobile, etc., usually the Nation's natal day is celebrated by people getting out of town and taking vacations in the "tall timber" or other places, but in earlier times, this day usually meant a big celebration in town and crowds of country people came for miles to "see the celebration."  Rival celebrations used to be held by nearby towns, such as Chico, Oroville, etc., but later on, by mutual understanding, Chico, Oroville and Marysville "took turns" in holding a celebration.</P>
136.sgm:<P>One of these celebrations, which was held on July 4th, 1895 experienced some unforseen climatic difficulties.  A big celebration was arranged for, particularly a large parade and a barbecue lunch for the public and the buildings were covered with flags and bunting.  A big crowd was expected and came.  A well advertised feature was the employment of a very well known big band from San Francisco, called "Roncovieri's Band" which had cost the Committee a very substantial sum for its services.  D Street between First and Second Streets was blocked off to travel and rows upon rows of tables and benches lined this street area for the free barbecue luncheon and in the center, an elevated platform was erected upon which the band was to play.  In anticipation of the usual hot day, to protect the people sitting at these luncheon tables and also to protect the members of the band from the sun's hot rays, ropes were strung across the street from the second story brick buildings on opposite sides for almost the entire length of the block and on top of these ropes, was laid canvas to make a roof awning as a protection from the sun; but "alas and alack," it "rained pitchforks" that day, ruining the celebration except for the hotels, saloons, ice cream parlors and the dance in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Dove Stews at Shelton Grove</P>
136.sgm:<P>FOR many years, there had been a Sportsman's Club in Nevada County and annually they had an outing, sportsmen from all over the State attending; there was always a barbecue, plenty of liquid refreshments, trap shooting, and various other amusements for the day.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was about 1893 that some local sportsmen, headed by Ben Cockrill, decided on a similar annual event for Yuba County; arrangements were made and the event pulled off.  It was successful and proved popular; each year the occasion was repeated and each time on a larger scale until it culminated in the biggest event of them all in 1898.  They were stag affairs and this 1898 event proved to be a "riot."  Many prizes were offered for various contests, the money for financing the event being largely secured from all kinds of gambling games which were conducted on the grounds and which were liberally patronized.  The Shelton Grove, consisting of several acres of fine large oak trees, closely growing together was always used for the event, the trees affording plenty of shade.  Rows upon rows of tables and benches were installed for the "stew," which was held late in the afternoon so that everyone would have ample opportunity to "get up a good appetite" with plenty of "appetizers," which the vast majority did as "all eats and drinks" were absolutely free and the liquid refreshments were always more than ample for any demand.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In those days game was plentiful and many of the local sportsmen for a week or so beforehand would be out hunting for doves, deer and young ducks which were placed in cold storage until the day they were required.  Immense caldrons of about thirty gallons capacity each were used for cooking these stews and the man in charge of this culinary department was Abraham Lewis, familiarly known by every one as "Old Abe"; he was an expert in this line of work and with many assistants, always put on a very successful and tasteful lot of food, "with all the trimmings."  To give some idea of the real magnitude of that day's events, the dove stew was reported to have required some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Quite naturally, there were always some who when well "liquored up," were disposed to have a fight and there were a number that day; in the large bus in which I rode with about fifteen others on our way home, the bus was stopped twice on the way in to let some of those on board get out on the road side and settle their "arguments" for a few minutes; then they would get aboard again and the bus proceeded on its way back to town.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I have previously stated that this certain event was a "riot," well, it was so much so that after that the wives, mothers, sisters and mothers-in-law of various prominent citizens with these "impedimenta," raised such serious objections to the condition in which some of their men relations returned home, that this Sportsman Club "folded up" and future events "called off"; but they were good, while they lasted.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Attempted Invasion of the City by Caterpillars</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN THE early days, all the territory south of the present north channel of the Yuba River at the D Street Bridge was a vast wilderness of trees and underbrush, wild grape and blackberry vines, this dense forest extending down to Eliza Bend on the south and upstream on the Yuba River for many miles, covering in all, several thousand acres.  The southerly boundary of this forest was the higher ridge of red dirt land where is now located the Cline Bull tract of homes, the Canary Cottage (now the Aloha), and Shelton's and Dunning's place, on the present Hammonton Road.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The bridge across the Yuba River at D Street those days was a wooden affair, the same length as the present concrete bridge, but when you had crossed a distance of six hundred feet south of the north approach, the bridge from there on was in a thick forest, the trees being so high that in summer time it was mostly in shadow during sunny days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The caretaker of the bridge was an old gentleman named Obediah Sawtelle, whose son was a bookkeeper in our office and was in my father's employ for many years.  This old bridge tender was known by everyone as "Old Obe"; his chief duty was to watch out for possible fires on the bridge and when any teams ran away in town and started up the approach to the bridge, he closed a gate at the entrance of the bridge and usually stopped them.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was about fifty years ago, that a singular and never repeated occurrence took place; this large forest of trees suddenly developed a tremendous number of caterpillars.  They were about three inches long and about a half inch thick and for quite a while they spent their efforts in devouring all the leaves from all the trees and brush in this forest and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>1898 A SMALL PORTION OF THE "DINING ROOM" AT SHELTON'S GROVE FOR ANNUAL DOVE STEW</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>1898 THE "KITCHEN" AT SHELTON'S GROVE SPORTSMAN'S CLUB, ANNUAL DOVE STEW</P>
136.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>The Failure of the English Dam and Comments on Other Dams</P>
136.sgm:<P>THIS dam had been constructed by the hydraulic miners, not for the storage of debris, but for the storage of water for mining purposes; the dam was full of water at the time it failed.  A message was relayed to Marysville that the dam had failed and Charles E. Sexey, who was then President of the Marysville Levee Commission, happened to be talking with me when the news was received.  We immediately got a photographer and drove to Daguerer Point to take a photograph of the expected flood, believing that it could be used to advantage in the big suit then in progress between Edwards Woodruff, (who at that time was the owner of the Empire Block, situated at the northeast corner of D and Second Streets and the basis of the suit, on behalf of Yuba and Sutter Counties) and the North Bloomfield Mine, the contention being that the filling of the rivers by mining debric was a threatened danger to this property.  Previously the miners, at the solicitation of James O'Brien of Smartsville who was also a hydraulic miner, had tacitly admitted threatened damage to other properties by constructing a levee on the south side of the Yuba River from the edge of the foothills (near Marigold), extending westerly a distance of about 8 miles where this levee connected with what was known as the Hedges Grade; this levee cost the miners about $85,000.00.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The English Dam broke in June 1883, and the water was entirely released from the reservoir in about one hour; the rush of water down the Yuba's mountain channel took out various bridges.  The bridge at Freeman's Crossing was destroyed, the water in the river being about forty feet higher than ever known before or since.  As the wave <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Mr. Beeney was busy working with a crew of men harvesting a grain crop, when suddenly, much to his astonishment, he saw a wall of water running over the top of the levee, in the middle of summer; they abandoned their operations and made haste to get to higher ground.  Several breaks occurred in the levee near there, the flood covering a large area of the Linda District, then escaping to the lower river over the Eliza District.  The main body of the flood kept in the main channel and raised the river at the D Street bridge two and a half feet.  I remember that at the D Street bridge the water was almost as thick as syrup, carrying a mass of mining debris; brush, trees, logs and other debris came down in great quantities and the bridge itself was jammed with citizens "watching the show."  Just twelve months afterward (June 1884) Judge Lorenzo Sawyer of the United States Circuit Court gave his famous hydraulic mining decision and he dwelt on this dam breaking and the resultant debris being brought down the river.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The following data, may be of interest:</P>
136.sgm:<P>The capacity of the English Dam was 618,000,000 cubic feet of water (all available) or about 14,200 acre feet, and it was full at the time it failed.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The dam was situated about 55 miles upstream from Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The dam was 131 feet high and 400 feet long with a base of 260 feet; the upstream side being faced with boards; the dam being built of rubble stone.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The reservoir created made a lake about 2 1/2 miles long, covering 395 acres.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The dam failed by being overtopped at 5:00 P.M. June 19, 1883.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The water was about 100 feet deep in the canyon, just below the dam when the dam failed; at Freeman's Crossing, 40 miles downstream, the water in the river rose until it was 40 feet higher than it had ever been before or since.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As the flood wave reached the edge of the foothills, it broke the Linda levee in three places at 1:30 P.M. the following day, at the old Beeney Ranch, (a short distance this side of Marigold) where it deposited so much debris in the river channel, that it flowed over portions of the Linda District for several days through these breaks and after the water had subsided to its usual low water summer level at the D Street bridge.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The flood of water commenced to reach the D Street bridge in about 25 hours, on the following day as the following will show;--</P>
136.sgm:<P>The gauge read, 6'4" just before the flood arrived.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The gauge read, 6'10" at 3:45 P.M.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The gauge read, 7'2" at 4:00 P.M.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The gauge read, 8'2" at 5:05 P.M.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The gauge read, 9'0" at 6:00 P.M.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The gauge read, 8'10" at 10:00 P.M.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After that, the river fell rapidly to its previous level of 6'4".  An immense amount of debris, logs and brush was brought down.  Samples were taken of the water, four feet under the river surface and showed 3.3 per cent of "slickens," all previous tests had never shown over 1.125 per cent of material.</P>
136.sgm:<P>At Daguerre Point, where the river was one mile wide at that time, the river rose two and a half feet in the first 15 minutes.  At Graniteville, the water was 100 feet deep in the river.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As a matter of comparison, the following are some facts about the Bullards Bar Dam.  This dam is at elevation 1500 feet; is 188 feet in height; length 440 feet; sub-base 80 feet; base 43 feet; crest 6 feet.  Water behind the dam can be drawn down only to the penstock; with 10-foot gates installed on top, the total water available for use is 16,000 acre feet; below the penstock, there is left available for storage for mining debris, 40,000,000 cubic yards which, in my opinion, it is exceedingly doubtful will ever be stored from that fork of the Yuba River.  The drainage area above the dam is 540 square miles.  With a head of 13 feet over the dam crest, the anticipated discharge was estimated to be 65,000 second feet but in March 1928, it actually reached 70,000 second feet, the maximum daily discharge during the period of the flood being 56,000 second feet.  The dam was designed to carry its load purely as an arch, no consideration was given to gravity or cantilever action; no consideration was given for uplift under the foundation, which latter consists of a hard greenstone.  This dam is situated 40 miles upstream from Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>If the proposed dam near The Narrows at Smartsville is constructed, that is another matter to be considered; but now that there is proper supervision over dam construction by the State Engineering Department and, in this particular case, also under supervision of the Federal Engineers, there is no doubt in my mind that this proposed dam will be constructed on much more substantial plans than was the Bullard's Bar Dam.  In any event, any possible contingencies have been taken under consideration by the Marysville Levee Commission and with additional changes and improvements, which are now being planned for, it is considered that Marysville will be immune in all circumstances.  So I do not want it considered that I am an "alarmist," for I am not; the possibility of a failure of the Bullard's Bar Dam, I believe is quite remote, BUT, I have always believed in the slogan, "safety first" with a levee system, particularly since my experience in 1907, and have always had that slogan fixed firmly in my mind since then.</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE LAKE ALMANOR DAM</P>
136.sgm:<P>This is a very large earth dam, at an elevation of 4380 feet, situated on the Feather River.  The height of the dam is about 140 feet; the spillway is 20 feet below the crest, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>In connection with the failure of the English Dam, and since then, other dams in the State, I have been asked many times since the construction of the Bullard's Bar Dam, what would happen if that dam should also fail, particularly at some high water period; well, the answer is that nothing serious would happen.  If it should fail in the summer months, it might raise the river at the D Street bridge, possibly six feet, but if the dam should fail during an extreme high water period, the river might be raised less than a foot, this for the reason that the wave of additional water would "flatten out" as it reached Marysville and being imposed upon the 2000 feet of flood surface width, then prevailing at the D Street bridge, the effect would be practically negligible.  Our Marysville levee system has been constructed to care for this possible contingency happening, when a maximum winter flood discharge is also prevailing.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XL</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Some Record Snowfalls in the Sierras</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE following measurements were taken at the Summit of the Donner Pass, Nevada County, at elevation of 7017 feet.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The following figures are in inches.</P>
136.sgm:<P>While there were 36 inches less snowfall in the winter of 1879-80, than in 1837-38, it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>As for the winter of 1889-90, it will be noticed that the heaviest fall was during the months of December to March inclusive, these months are when the weather is coldest and the snow packs solidly.  The rainfall in Marysville that winter was 38.91 inches.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The winter of 1889-90 was a severe one for the Southern Pacific Railroad, traffic was practically discontinued for a long period and following that winter, many miles of more snow sheds were constructed at heavy expense.  The snow pack was so solid that it did not commence to melt until March, when the river commenced to rise from these melting snows and for the months of March to May inclusive, the Yuba River at the D Street gauge averaged about 16 feet, the highest reading each month being as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 8th<HSEP>16 feet, 8 inches</P>
136.sgm:<P>April 13th<HSEP>16 feet, 2 inches</P>
136.sgm:<P>May 25th<HSEP>16 feet, 0 inches</P>
136.sgm:<P>There was no levee system at that time near the river from the old site of "Yuba Dam" to the Southern Pacific Railroad embankment, a distance of about one mile, and there was then (the same as today), the long 150 foot trestle in the railroad embankment, just south of Canary Cottage (now The Aloha).  As the rivers were well filled with debris at that time, the melting snows caused a constant fairly high water discharge under this trestle (within about one foot of the then highest water mark of 17 feet 1 inch of 1884), and overflowing the County road and for quite a while the residents of Linda Township had access to Marysville only by crossing the Railroad Bridge across the Yuba River and on their return, packed their supplies on their backs.  This overflow showing no signs of subsiding, the merchants in town installed a rowboat service on the line of the County road for the accommodation of the people on the south side of town.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I was a member of the Board of Supervisors at that time and with a gang of men attempted to close off this trestle with a levee made of bags of earth, which seemed at first likely to be a success, but when we attempted to do the final closing, the current was too swift to finish the job.  We were all working in water about to our waists and I had the bad luck to dislocate my right knee which placed me on crutches for a couple of months; that was the first and only time (so far) that the Old Yuba "made me take the count."</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1911, there was an exceedingly large accumulation of snow in the mountains; on March 24th, a Quincy newspaper reported that "on the ridge between Poorman's and Hopkin's Creek, in Onion Valley and on the north side of Pilot Creek, the snow drifts were as deep as seventy-five feet deep"; the Mullen Hotel in Onion Valley (which was a two story building) had only its stove pipe showing above the snow.  About two months later I was making one of my usual spring business trips up that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>DONNER PARTY</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was in October 1846 that the Donner Party had its sad experiences commence, while on their way to California.  The party consisted largely of the Donner, Murphy and Graves families; in all, there were ninety members of the party of which only forty-eight finally survived.  It was in the Spring of 1847 when the survivors arrived in the foothills and valley area, many remaining at the various settlements east of Marysville and Wheatland, among those coming to the Marysville area being the Murphy family.  In the latter part of 1847, W. G. Murphy moved from the Cordua Ranch to Nye's Ranch (afterwards Marysville) and for many years afterwards played a prominent part in the City's affairs.  He was a lawyer by profession and a very interesting character and when I first ran for County Supervisor in 1888 he was one of my staunch supporters.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>San Francisco Earthquake and Fire</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE earthquake in San Francisco was on April 18, 1906 and two days afterwards, on April 20th, 1906, a mass meeting was held in the Marysville City Hall.  The meeting was called to order by Mayor G. W. Hall, who stated that it was time for action and not words and asked that a subscription list be immediately opened at the meeting of those present.  I "opened the pot" with $100.00 for the W. T. Ellis Company, this was immediately followed with $100.00 subscriptions from T. J. Kelly Co., J. R. Garrett Co., Valley Meat Co., Kelly Bros., Powell Bros., and others and within about one hour, $5,000.00 was raised and the following day, the Garrett Company, Ellis Company and the Buckeye Mill shipped, what was understood to be, the first carload of foodstuffs to the stricken City.  Many present at the meeting remembered that when Marysville was flooded in 1875, San Francisco loaded up a river steamer with foodstuffs, blankets, bedding, etc., which was thankfully received and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>In those days, there was published a "poem" which made quite a "hit," as follows:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>There's lots of time to burn,<LB>There's a devil of a lot to learn,<LB>Out in Frisco;<LB>Where they make their human matches,<LB>To end in single scratches<LB>And the husbands mix their latches,<LB>Out in Frisco.<LB>Where the red lights are contagious<LB>And the conduct is outrageous,<LB>Out in Frisco.</HI>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">You get next at Sanguinetti's<LB>Where the girls forget their pretties,<LB>Out in Frisco,<LB>And the blood-red native wine<LB>Mixes up the clinging vine<LB>And she calls you "Baby Mine,"<LB>Out in Frisco.<LB>Next day you meet at Zinkands<LB>And you hold the dear girl's hands,<LB>Out in Frisco.<LB>Dry Martini, then another,<LB>And she telephones to Mother<LB>She'll take dinner with her brother,<LB>Out in Frisco.<LB>If in Poodle Dog a crowd,<LB>Disturbs your nerves with noises loud,<LB>Out in Frisco,<LB>You will go just one floor up<LB>And in privacy you'll sup<LB>Close beside your buttercup,<LB>Out in Frisco;<LB>Or, in the elevator,<LB>If, in parlance of the waiter,<LB>Out in Frisco,<LB>You more quiet wish to be,<LB>You will stop at Number three<LB>Just to see what you can see--<LB>Out in Frisco.<LB>If your conscience then is rife<LB>Cause it's another fellow's wife,<LB>Remember this is life,<LB>Out in Frisco.</HI>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">When you finally cash in<LB>And end this life of sin<LB>Out in Frisco,<LB>They will gently toll a bell,<LB>Plant your carcass in a dell,<LB>No need to go to hell,<LB>You're in Frisco.</HI>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Military Experiences and the Debs' Strike</P>
136.sgm:<P>IT WAS about 1883 when a number of school boys formed a Zouave Company in Marysville; there were about forty in the Company, their ages from about fifteen to eighteen; as I remember it, I was a Second Sergeant in the Company.  We had very gaudy uniforms, a red fez for the head, a snappy blue short jacket with plenty of braid ornamentation and our trousers were very bright red and very baggy, reaching to about the knee and with white puttees on our legs from the knee down.  We were always on hand for 4th of July and other celebrations and gave occasional exhibitions of marching, bayonet drills, etc., at entertainments; we "showed off" every chance we got.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Later on a Company was formed called the Marysville Guards of which Godfrey L. Carden was Captain and I was a Second Lieutenant.  I was instrumental in forming this Company, advancing most of the money with which to purchase at a very low price a lot of discarded old Springfield Rifles from the Government and my father permitted us the free use of a large vacant hall on the second story of the brick building still situated at the southeast corner of D and First streets.  We did a lot of target practice on the south side end of the D Street bridge; just before Thanksgiving, we would hold a "turkey shoot" on the sand area; the turkeys would be buried in the sand with just their heads sticking out for targets; ten shots were sold for a stated price and if the turkey's head was hit, it was the marksman's turkey.  The range was rather long and the target was rather small so we picked up some profits for the Company's expenses.  This Company was in existence for several years until one day, when an annual election for officers took place, there were two rivals for the office of Captain; a free-for-all fight took place, a number were thrown down the steep flight of stairs, my father came over to investigate and refused further use of the hall and the Company disbanded.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1892 a militia Company was formed, this Company being Company C of the Eighth Regiment.  George Baldwin was Captain, John S. Lydon was First Lieutenant and I was Second Lieutenant; there were other Companies at Oroville, Chico, Red <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>It is not generally known that Company C of Marysville held at that time the enviable title of Champions of the World for rifle shooting at 200 yards, off hand, fifty men competing on a side.  This honor was won by the members of Company C on May 19th, 1895 and it has, I understand, never been equaled.  The Marysville Militiamen won over the members of Company B of the National Guard of San Francisco on that date, by seventy-five points, the score being Marysville 1982, San Francisco 1907; this was thirty-one points better than any showing made before or since in a National Guard match between one hundred men.  The officers of this Company at that time were Captain E. A. Forbes, Lieutenants George H. Voss, and Phil J. Divver, Sergeants Henry Schuler, David Canning and Peter J. Delay.  In the year 1898 when volunteers were called for in the Spanish-American war, Company C then became known as Company D and proved the machine through which a volunteer Company of 105 men, including officers, entered that war.  This Company went into training at Camp Barrett, Alameda County, under Captain George H. Voss where they remained three weeks before being mustered into the regulars.  Later, some of the Company members were sent to barracks at Mare Island, the others going to Vancouver, B. C.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I had advanced to the position of Major, Fifth Brigade, N.G.C. and happened to be taking a week's vacation at Bartlett Springs when, on July 23, 1894 I received instructions from General Montgomery from the Chico Headquarters, that I had been "detailed with the Eighth Regiment of Infantry and will report immediately to Colonel Park Henshaw, Commanding, at Sacramento for duty."  The great railroad strike, eventually affecting every railroad in the United States had commenced just a short time previous, generally known as the "Debs' Railroad Strike."  I took the first stage back to Marysville, put on my uniform and as the trains were still operating, took the first train for Sacramento.  I reported to Colonel Henshaw at his headquarters and asked for instructions; the Colonel informed me that all the Companies of the Regiment had been ordered immediately to entrain for Sacramento and I was first to pick out a camp site somewhere near the Southern Pacific's American River bridge and report back to him.  I picked out a large vacant area at the corner of 8th and D Streets (which happened to be the same streets where I lived in Marysville); there were only a few scattering houses in that vicinity and a man came out of one of the small shanties, no doubt curious, and seeing me dressed in a uniform and looking over the property asked me what I was looking for.  I told him I had selected the property for a camp site for a lot of soldiers; he said we could not have the site until we had paid him rent in advance; he was told we would take the site and discuss price afterwards; he told me that he would have me arrested for trespassing if I did; he was told to go right ahead.  Returning to Colonel Henshaw for further instructions, he told me there would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Our Regiment patrolled the railroad tracks on the north side of Sacramento and the railroad bridges; other National Guard Companies were detailed for duty at other points; several of the Sacramento City Companies were in and about the passenger depot and freight yards.  This was a mistake soon found out, as many men in the Companies were friends of the strikers and when orders were given the strikers to disperse, they only laughed and kidded the officers; this same thing happened in various places and then, regular army troops arrived from the Presidio and soon brought order out of chaos and our, and other, National Guard regiments were ordered home.  For some years afterward I was kidded about the "mulligan and sockeye" stews I had provided for the boys while in camp; I decided that as a "Commissary Major" I was a "washout."  Shortly afterward, having served about ten years, I resigned from the service.</P>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Liberty Loan Drives</P>
136.sgm:<P>DURING the world war, Mr. Herbert Cave and myself had charge of all the Liberty Loan "drives" and in each case we put Yuba County "over the top" with plenty to spare on each drive.  At first we had considerable difficulty with several naturalized German citizens, three in particular.  All three of them had lived in Yuba County for many years and two of them were very affluent while the other was in only moderate circumstances.  The latter was very pro-German and got to be so outspoken that he was brought before the Superior Court Judge and threatened with being sent to the Federal Prison at Alcatraz Island; after that he subsided.  The other two still continued absolutely to refuse to subscribe for the bonds so I sent them a letter to appear at our headquarters on a certain day and at a certain hour, absolutely without fail or "some action would be taken."  It had the desired effect, they both appeared and we told them just how much each had to subscribe and they were very substantial amounts; they wanted to know what would happen if they failed to subscribe and they were told that it was up to them to subscribe or not, it made no particular difference to us, but that "they would be exceedingly surprised and greatly inconvenienced if they decided not to subscribe"; knowing what had been threatened to the third one who had been taken before the Superior Judge, they weakened and subscribed for the amounts we had allocated to them.  I had always been on friendly terms with these two men but after that, one of them has never spoken to me since.  Had they refused, I really do not know what I would have done as I "had no aces up my sleeve."</P>
136.sgm:<P>The various Red Cross drives were in charge of Mrs. P. T. Smith; she was an indefatigable worker and also succeeded in "going over the top" with every Red Cross drive; she never took no for an answer from anyone, the word "no" was not in her vocabulary.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Navigation on the Feather and Yuba Rivers</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN 1849, the Steamer "Linda" which had come around Cape Horn from the East, made a trip up the Yuba River for a distance of about four miles, where a landing was made and a town site was laid out and called after the Steamer, the district south of the Yuba River taking that name, which it bears to this day.  The Steamer "Phoenix" also made a trip up the Yuba River to Owsley's Bar, in 1854, which place is approximately opposite the present location of Hammonton, about ten miles upstream from Marysville.  A few years afterwards, George C. Perkins, (later U.S. Senator) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:conducted a grocery store at Oroville, loaded a large steamer with supplies and had same delivered to Oroville, which is 34 miles upstream on the Feather River from Marysville.  In the Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Bee</HI>
136.sgm:<P>Many steamers and sailing vessels were making regular trips from San Francisco to Marysville at that time, as Marysville was the natural distributing point for the mining section of the State, it being of record that on August 27th, 1850, there were twenty-four sailing vessels at the landing in Marysville.  On August 22, 1851, there arrived at the wharf at Marysville with full cargoes, seven steamers, viz, "Marysville," "Kennebeck," "Yuba," "Mansel White," "Fashion," "Orient," and "Gamecock."  At this same time, many other steamers were navigating between San Francisco and Marysville, among them being the "Confidence," "Camanche," "Jack Hayes," "American Eagle," "Urilda," "J. Bragdon," "William G. Hunt," "Fashion," "Faun," and the "New World."</P>
136.sgm:<P>At about that time the passenger rates from San Francisco to Marysville were $35 and $25 from Sacramento to Marysville.  The freight rate was eight cents per pound, including baggage, blankets, etc.  In 1852 strong opposition sprang up between the various steamers and the fare dropped to $5 and then to $2.50 and some steamers hauled passengers free.  Shortly after this, a combination was made to raise freight rates, a new company being formed called the California Steam Navigation Company, with a Capital Stock of $2,400,000 and freight and passenger rates were advanced.  This new combination was very unsatisfactory to the best interests of Marysville and a public meeting was held to consider the matter which resulted in the formation of an opposition line called "The Citizen's Steam Navigation Company," with a Capital Stock of $175,000.  The rivalry between these two companies caused the old company to drop its freight rate from $25 a ton to as low as $1.00 per ton and the passenger rates were reduced to 25 cents.  Sharp rivalry and opposition resulted and races were resorted to and consequently collisions were by no means rare.  In 1855, finding that too sharp opposition was injuring both companies, a compromise was effected whereby uniform rates were established.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The filling of the rivers with hydraulic mining debris finally forced the old companies to withdraw their steamers as they drew too much water and finally, in 1874, the Marysville Steamer Company was organized at Marysville, and steamers were constructed especially for the new river conditions.  This company was organized by my father, W. T. Ellis, associated with D. E. Knight and N. D. Rideout.  The company had three steamers which were named the "C. M. Small," "D. E. Knight No. 1," and "D. E. Knight No. 2."  The steamers were 160 tons register each and in conjunction with the steamers, were four barges, used also to haul freight and towed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Under the terms of the sale, the two other original owners (W. T. Ellis and D. E. Knight) were given a written agreement by the Southern Pacific Company that they were to be guaranteed their old steamer rates on any shipments which they had from San Francisco to Marysville by rail, and each month rebates were given on such shipments; later on, these rebates were given to all large shippers in Marysville.  Later still the railroad company decided to violate this agreement and stop this rebating, so Knight &amp; Ellis, then had constructed a steamer barge, named the <HI REND="italics">Acme</HI>
136.sgm: and again resumed navigation to Marysville.  Not enjoying this new competition, the railroad company, then purchased this new steamer <HI REND="italics">Acme</HI>
136.sgm:<P>During the sixteen years my father managed this steamer line, the steamer rates were always less than the railroad rates from San Francisco to Marysville and we handled no freight except to or from Feather River points and did not compete for business on Sacramento River points; we did no passenger business.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Our freight rates on general merchandise from San Francisco to Marysville were $3.00 per ton, while rail rates on the same class of merchandise were $5.20 per ton, between the same points.  Our rates on grain, taken from the banks of the Feather River at various landings were $2.20 per ton, delivered mostly at Port Costa, most of the grain being unloaded at ship's side there, into large steamers which took the grain to Liverpool.  This steamer line was conducted with a very satisfactory profit each year of its existence and the Company would probably not have sold out but for the fact that river conditions continued to grow from bad to worse from mining debris and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>In 1910, there started considerable discussion in connection with rehabilitation of navigation on the Feather River and in the following year, May 20, 1911, I decided to make an investigation of river conditions.  Accompanied by County Engineer, Leslie B. Crook, we started down the river in a row boat, taking soundings at many places as far down the river as Nicolaus; we found the condition of the river very much better than we had expected and so reported upon our return.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was then arranged to have a large committee of citizens make an inspection of the river; we all went to Nicolaus where we had arranged to have a small steamer from Sacramento come up to meet us and take us to Marysville.  We left Nicolaus at 9:50 A.M. and reached Yuba City at 2:00 P.M. taking soundings at various places enroute.  The committee was very much enthused, meetings followed, the City authorities were interested, a road was built from Third Street to the River and a landing constructed with a shelter warehouse.  This was all accomplished the following year and it was planned to endeavor to interest some steamer to operate to Marysville; this took some time but finally arrangements were completed with Captain A. Fay, owner of the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Weitchpec</HI>
136.sgm: to make regular trips to Marysville, bringing freight from San Francisco and Sacramento.  The <HI REND="italics">Weitchpec</HI>
136.sgm: was 100 feet long, 20 feet wide and 4.4 feet deep and drew 16 inches of water; it had also two barges, both of 300 tons capacity.  The first trip was on February 1, 1913 and it operated till June of that same year, at which time the water in the river had lowered so much that navigation was difficult.  During the four months of its operations it carried 2,729 short tons of freight valued at $159,046 and the rates charged were 75 per cent of the rail rates.  At that same time, several tows of dredgers and oil barges were made from Sacramento to points on the river below Marysville.  We hadn't done much navigating but we had accomplished what we had set out to prove, that the river was navigable easily for about eight months of the year and there was sufficient water for navigation for the remainder of the year if some works of improvement, such as wing dams, etc., were constructed.  This was then followed by an effort to obtain Federal assistance; in the meantime, we had obtained an Act of Congress under date of March 4, 1913 for a preliminary examination of the Feather River.  A public hearing was held at Marysville on August 5th, 1913 before Major S. A. Cheney and Captain A. B. Barber, Corps of Engineers, at which hearing many persons gave testimony and I filed a brief, which I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>As a final result of this hearing and the reports which had been filed with Dan C. Kingman, Chief of Engineers, U.S. Army at Washington, through the efforts of Congressman William Kent, a preliminary appropriation was made of $10,000 for experimental correction work, contingent upon a like amount being raised locally.  We raised $2500 from each of the Boards of Supervisors of Yuba and Sutter Counties and $5000 from the State and these monies were turned over to the Federal Government.  The Federal Engineers then commenced work on wing dams at various places on the river and were expending considerable of the money in this way, when the world war and the participation of the United States stopped all work of this kind.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the war and realizing the immense amount of water which was then being taken out of the two rivers by large irrigation canal systems, I came to the conclusion that in the future, during the natural low water periods of the river, the chances of navigation during the late summer months would probably be an impossibility but that perhaps this condition could be cured by locks in the river.  I approached Major Cheney on the subject and asked if he could expend the remaining sums of money, left on hand when the war stopped work, on a survey to ascertain the possibility of canalization of the Feather River.  Major Cheney was interested but explained that the money had been appropriated for work and not surveys and it was impossible for him to so expend the money.  I then took the matter up with Congressman Kent and after considerable trouble, he was successful in getting the Congress to pass an Act authorizing the remaining money be so expended for surveys.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The surveys were made under the direction of Major U.S. Grant, 3rd, and on May 29, 1925 the report was made.  It planned for three locks, one just below the confluence of the Feather and Sacramento Rivers and two upstream on the Feather River, the total estimated cost being $5,709,998.  (See Document No. 1, 69th Congress, 1st Session.)  Well we had the plan but we realized that the freighting business on the river would never justify the expenditure of that sum of money so we dropped the idea.  When the Shasta Dam and also other dams are constructed on the Feather and Yuba Rivers, as now planned for under the Water Conservation Plan, then the Feather River will become navigable again to Marysville, in the summer as well as in the winter months, but not before.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Dredging Feather River for Navigation</P>
136.sgm:<P>EVER so often, some proposal is advanced by various persons, that the Federal Government should dredge the debris out of the Feather River from its mouth to Marysville and so rehabilitate navigation.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>About two years ago, the same suggestion was made and to demonstrate the impractibility of such a thing, I gave the following estimates:</P>
136.sgm:<P>The distance between Marysville and the mouth of the Feather River is 28.3 miles; the average width of the low water channel, between natural banks is about 375 feet.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Experience as a County Supervisor, First Time</P>
136.sgm:<P>MY first experience as a County Supervisor commenced when I was elected on November 6th, 1888, when I was twenty-two years of age.  I was elected at a regular election to fill a vacancy on the Board that was caused by the resignation of George W. Pine who had been elected to another public office.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When I was a candidate for this office, there were three other candidates in the field <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Several years previously, a flag pole had been removed from the north tower of the Court House because it and the flag were very large and the tower was endangered when a heavy wind blew; so my first official act was to have a smaller pole erected on the roof of the building and I took some pride in running up the Stars and Stripes again.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The roads in the county those days were terrible, exceedingly dusty in the summer and almost impassable in the winter, except some few miles of the main valley roads which had some gravel on them.  As for the mountain roads, some of the "toll roads" were kept in fair condition, but there was hardly any traffic over the mountain roads during the winter months except by the stage lines and they had great difficulty at times keeping on schedule.  As a result, the stores in the mountain towns and many of the inhabitants laid in full stocks of goods, not later than the first of November, enough to last them until the following spring when the roads would "dry out" sufficiently to travel, which was usually about the first of April.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I broached the subject of a bond issue to obtain funds with which to gravel some of the main roads but dropped that idea very quickly when I ascertained from bankers that even though the people might vote in favor of a bond issue, there would be no hope of selling the bonds because the quite general opinion then prevailed that the rapid filling of the rivers was going to result in the ruination of the better valley lands as well as the City of Marysville itself.  That thought was in every one's mind, it was the chief topic of conversation.  The total assessment roll of the County at that time was $6,771,915.00 or about one third of what it is at the present time.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The financing of the litigation in the hydraulic mining issue was paid for jointly by Sutter and Yuba Counties.  In Sutter County, the vote for such appropriations was always unanimous but in Yuba County, two of the members of the Board were always from the mountain district and quite naturally were favorable to hydraulic mining, so the vote of our Board was always three "for" and two "against" such appropriations.  One of the members of our Board was James Malaley; sometimes he would attend meetings a little "lit up."  On one of these occasions, when one of these claims came up for payment, for a joke, I got him to vote "aye," he not knowing just what he was doing.  When the published proceedings came out in the newspaper, having him on record as so voting, he had a lot of explaining to do to his constituents in the hills.  At the next Board meeting, in very "choice" language, he told me what he thought of my jokes.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>At the end of my term, being a County Supervisor did not appeal to me much, as funds did not permit of much constructive work, so I was not a candidate at the next election.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Experiences with James D. Stewart</P>
136.sgm:<P>AS a young man, when I first got into active participation in the hydraulic mining fight, I was familiar with the names of various large mine owners, particularly of Jim Stewart, but never came in personal contact with them, for the very good reason, that when we obtained information through our watchmen, (the miners called them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>We also had considerable difficulty with the watchmen we employed to get information; in many cases they "sold out" to the miners and reported back that mines were not operating, when they really were.  Some of these watchmen would pose as gamblers and take odd times to "look around" to obtain information which was rather difficult as most every mine had armed guards at various places to see that "suspicious characters" did not get close to the mines.  Some of these men who posed as gamblers for us, had of course to keep up appearances by actual gambling, and in several instances, they were darn poor gamblers (or said they were) and we would have to stand for their gambling losses in addition to their salaries.  We then had to send actual farmers themselves, who were vitally interested in the problem, to serve as watchmen.  That didn't work so well in two instances, one of these watchmen being a large rancher who also raised fine work horses and we found that he was selling horses to the miners for about $500 when their actual worth was about $150, and he could not "see" anything wrong.  Another party was interested in the flour business and we found that the brand of flour he sold was a "very popular" brand in many of the kitchens of the mining camps; he was exposed to us by a United States Engineer, who gave us a written statement of the facts.  I still retain this information in my office.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Occasionally our watchman would be shot at, when they got too close to a mine and they would "make tracks" in a hurry.  We almost always had men go in pairs so that if necessary, they could corroborate each one's testimony.  I made several trips with a companion, just for a little excitement; we were "snooping around" the Blue Tent mine and had gotten very close without being observed, when suddenly we heard the crack of a rifle and the bullet hitting rather close by, this followed by another shot.  We didn't wait to argue, we got out of there "hell bent for election" (an old time saying).</P>
136.sgm:<P>I really believe that the marksman was not a poor shot but just wanted to scare us away; if that really was his intention, he was successful.  There was a watchman named Fleetwood, who lived in Yuba City and made many trips for us; it appears that he and his companion got separated in the timber and he was discovered and shot at.  On his return he told us of his experience and said several men got after him, all shooting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>We finally got quite provoked about this leasing of mines to unknown parties so at one of our meetings of the Anti-Debris Association, we decided to take some action which might have the desired effect.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A few weeks previous, an injunction had been issued by our Superior Judge, (Judge Keyser), enjoining the owner, superintendent and some thirty of their employees from operating the Omega Mine.  Our watchmen discovered that the injunction had been ignored, the mine was being operated, and no attention being paid to the court summons.  Our District Attorney, E. A. Forbes, got out papers for contempt of court.  Secret arrangements were then made with the Southern Pacific Railroad for an engine, passenger coach and box car to come from Sacramento and stop on the main track of the Yuba River railroad bridge, in the thick timber which existed there at that time.  Sixteen of us had been sworn in as deputy sheriffs the day before, and by ones and twos, we walked across the bridge, so as to not attract attention and all met in the timber where the train was to stop and meet us.  When we got on the train, we stopped at Yuba Station, where we loaded a wagon and horses into the freight car.</P>
136.sgm:<P>We left at 3:30 P.M. on a Thursday afternoon on April 18th, 1889, pulled down the blinds and started for Emigrant Gap, which we reached shortly after midnight; we unloaded and started for the Omega Mine, about eight miles distant over a mighty bad road, covered with snow and slush, most of us walking the entire distance to keep warm.  We reached the mine just at daybreak, surrounded the rooming house, then called out for the inmates to come out and surrender.  Immediately there was a great stir inside the house, doors and windows were hastily barricaded and it looked like a fight ahead.  Finally however, there was quiet inside the house and then finally, a number of our men, finding a large log handy, rushed with it against the front door, breaking it down, the rest of us following in ready for action.  It was rather amusing however, when we found no one in sight, the inmates had hid under beds, tables, in a basement and up in the eaves of the house; they had plenty of arms and ammunition, but they showed no fight.  We got the bunch out, placed handcuffs on them and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>We reached Emigrant Gap, embarked on the train in a hurry and started for Roseville at high speed, having arranged for a "clear track" to that place.  When we reached Roseville, we were much relieved, on the trip down, we feared that some telegraph operator would "tip" some one off and the train might be ditched; we wired home from Roseville and reached Marysville at 4:00 P.M. and practically the whole town was at the depot.  We marched our twenty prisoners to the County Jail placing them in charge of Sheriff Saul.  The following day a Mr. Frank M. Stone, an attorney from Stockton appeared on their behalf and made all kinds of demands and complaints but on April 25th, Judge Keyser fined each of them $500.00.  They all expected their mining friends to pay their fines but failing to do so, were kept in jail for several months, when the County, getting tired of feeding them, made an arrangement, by which some lumber company took them off the County's hands and took them to Oregon to work in a lumber camp.  I was a County Supervisor at that time and some of the mountain newspapers "roasted" me "good and plenty" for being a County Supervisor and stooping so low as to be a "kidnaper and a spy."</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the Judge Sawyer decision and later on, with the adoption by Congress of the "Caminetti Act" in 1893 which was the miner's own legislation and placed hydraulic mining under the charge and supervision of the Government Engineers, known as the California Debris Commission, hydraulic mining, with this Commission's regulations, began to wane and became practically a dead issue for the next thirty-six years, until the sudden and unexpected "resurrection" when the Cloudman Bill was introduced in the Legislature in 1929.  In the previous intervening years, Jim Stewart and I had often met and exchanged reminiscences of our old battles and had become good friends; with the introduction of the Cloudman Bill, Jim Stewart and I quit smoking the pipe of peace, put on our war paint and feathers, and proceeded to go on the war path again, for the next five years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This Cloudman Bill proposed that the State appropriate $300,000 for hydraulic mining dam sites, the money to be turned over to the Federal Engineers, (California Debris Commission) with the expectation the Federal Government would match the contribution; the bill was an "entering wedge" for more and larger contributions to follow in the future.  After weeks of controversy and lobbying, the bill was defeated.  At the next session, practically the same bill, proposing a modified appropriation was introduced, known as the Seawell Bill, which was passed but vetoed by the Governor; more details about this proposed legislation will appear in another chapter, as this chapter I am "dedicating" to Jim Stewart.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>To tell all the happenings in those two Legislatures in connection with these two bills, would be too long a story, but at each session, there were joint meetings of the Assembly and Senate at evening sessions to listen to arguments pro and con.  The chamber was packed with spectators, largely from Yuba and Sutter Counties and from Nevada, Placer and other mountain counties, each side giving at times, loud approval to the speakers who represented their point of view.</P>
136.sgm:<P>At one of these joint meetings of the Legislatures, which was held one evening to consider the Seawell Bill, the chamber was again packed in this manner.  Jim Stewart was a good organizer, and the delegations from the mountains all had large badges pinned on their coats, and Jim had brought down also a large brass band from Auburn to dispense music when the meeting was ready to be held; the band wasn't so "hot" on harmony, but it was certainly strong on "noise"; it "raised the roof" of the Capitol building when it played.  When the meeting was opened, it was announced that each side was to be permitted to have an hour and a half of time to present their arguments.  Each side had about four speakers, most of them making brief talks, Jim and myself, taking up most of the time.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The representatives of the miners were first on the program, followed by the representatives of the valley area, and when the allotted time was up, some further time was permitted pro and con.  It was all very entertaining and at times highly amusing but when the meeting was over, I doubted whether any real results had been accomplished.  I thought that the legislators were more confused than they had been enlightened.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Jim in his talk said that the closing down of hydraulic mining had resulted in the confiscation of over one hundred millions of mining property, to which statement, my reply was that the filling of the rivers had caused the expenditure of over one hundred and fifty millions of dollars for levees for protection and in addition, that there had been untold millions of dollars of property damage from floods, mainly as the result of debris filling of the rivers.  In my talk, I dwelt on the damage done to navigation, that boats could now only navigate to Sacramento and that before the rivers were filled, the Feather River was navigable to Oroville, about 33 miles above Marysville, and I gave a detailed statement of the names of the many steamers which were navigating between San Francisco and Marysville.  To this Jim replied, that those steamers which Ellis was talking about, were so small that he could have put any one of them in a wheelbarrow and cart them away, that they were not steamboats, they were just toys.  I had dwelt at considerable length on the report of Colonel Thomas H. Jackson of the California Debris Commission, which report had been adverse to the proposed legislation and strongly recommended that the Federal Government make no appropriations for the dams because of mining being a private enterprise, etc.  To this Jim answered that he had read this report of Colonel Jackson several times very carefully, that he had in the past read many of my reports and listened to my talks and that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Before doing so however, I will relate another experience with Jim.  After the agitation over the defeat of both the Cloudman and Seawell Bills had quieted down I conceived the idea that there might be a possibility of assisting Jim to operate one of his mines by the dredger process.  I made a date and went up and met him at Auburn and together we visited this mine, in which is left a very large deposit of gold bearing gravel; it has been shut down for years.  We walked all over the property and I told him I would take the matter up with Mr. W. P. Hammon.  It was about 2:00 p.m. when we finished our trip of inspection and Jim said, we would drive over to Dutch Flat and have lunch.  It was a small hotel where we went and Jim was apparently well acquainted with the proprietor and asked if it would be too much trouble to give us a bite to eat and then introduced me to the man and his wife as Mr. Ellis.  The old lady looked at me, I thought rather closely, then went to the kitchen; she came back several times, each time she seemed to give me a close inspection; finally she exclaimed, "Now I have you spotted; you was the man fighting Jim at the Legislature last year; I was there and heard you talk; what are you two up to anyway?"  Well you could have heard Jim's <HI REND="italics">ha, ha, ha</HI>
136.sgm:, for a mile; I was glad I had obtained the lunch before she had "spotted" me.  When we finished our lunch, we went outside and across the street, on a porch in front of an old abandoned brick store building, there was an old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:man, with a long white beard, sitting in an old chair, with his feet cocked up against a tree.  Jim said, "Come over, I want you to meet an old timer."  Jim introduced me again as Mr. Ellis and said, "Dad, I guess you never saw this man before"; the old man looked at me closely for a minute and then drawled out, "Oh yes I have, a good many years ago you came through here on a black horse when you were spying on us miners."  Again, Jim's <HI REND="italics">ha, ha, ha</HI>
136.sgm:<P>As I had promised, I took the matter up with Mr. Hammon and he informed me that he had had the same idea one time and had it investigated by his engineer, who made an unfavorable report because the gravel was too deep and the width too narrow to permit of the convenient operation of a dredge.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Right here however, I want to state, that in the early days, before I had ever met Jim Stewart, we all considered him as an arch enemy of the valley's interests; after I had met him and had "crossed swords" with him on many occasions, I began to realize that he was one of the most resourceful "fighters" I had ever run up against.  He had a ready wit and at the same time, a most sarcastic tongue; he was never at a loss for an answer and he had a good strong voice with which he "never pulled his punches."  Jim and I finally got pretty well acquainted and we have on several occasions had a lot of enjoyment talking over old times.  I entertain a most friendly feeling for him and which I feel he reciprocates, notwithstanding thaat for some forty years we have entertained divergent views and both of us have, I guess, been as uncompromising as a gas meter.  Jim's large and varied collection of mining specimens and other interesting relics, which he has at his home, is well worth seeing and is very valuable.  The last time I looked them over, he remarked that he guessed that I had many interesting things in my office and was coming down to look them over, but I told him that most all my "specimens" were a large array of printed documents, photographs and several scrap books I had been filling for the last fifty years and that I had never been able to obtain a warehouse large enough, to have a replica of the size of the levees which had been constructed, of a reproduction of a twenty-six foot fill of debris in the bed of the Yuba River at the D Street bridge and various other "small" items, but I could, at any time, show him a "shock of gray hair" under my hat, the color of which I held him partly responsible for.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Experience with L. L. Robinson, President of the North Bloomfield Mine</P>
136.sgm:<P>GEORGE OHLEYER of Yuba City and myself, had an interesting experience with Mr. L. L. Robinson at the North Bloomfield mine on one occasion.  Mr. Ohleyer was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>My Warning to Professor G. K. Gilbert</P>
136.sgm:<P>AFTER the decision of Judge Sawyer on hydraulic mining in 1884, the Miners' Association advocated and was successful, through the efforts of Congressman Caminetti of Amador County, in having a bill introduced in Congress, placing all hydraulic mining in California under the charge and supervision of three U.S. Engineers, called the California Debris Commission, this Commission having the power to grant permits for such mining, when a showing was made that no debris would be permitted to escape, which might have detrimental effects on the rivers.  This law adopted by the Congress was generally known and referred to as the Caminetti Act.  After a few years, the miners became dissatisfied with this legislation which they had sponsored, because of the restrictions and regulations placed on mining by this Commission and finally, in 1904, at the urgent request of the Miners' Association, President Theodore Roosevelt sent out Professor Grove Karl Gilbert, of the United States Geological Survey, to make a thorough investigation of the whole question and to ascertain, if possible, some way in which the hydraulic mining industry could be rehabilitated.  Professor Gilbert spent several years in investigations and research and finally issued a report of his findings, consisting of a large book of 149 pages; I have referred to same elsewhere in another chapter.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When Professor Gilbert first arrived, he made his first investigations in the bay area, then in the delta area, finally he came to Marysville and called on me and for several weeks, I put in most of my time showing him all over the Feather, Yuba and Bear river areas in the Valley, the levee systems and all the data I had on hand in connection with levee expenditures, filling of the rivers, etc., etc.  He was exceedingly thorough in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER L</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Ellis Lake</P>
136.sgm:<P>BEFORE the white man arrived in California, many of the rivers of the State had natural "by-passes" or "spillways," through which excess waters escaped when the rivers were in full flood and their natural channels were unable to accommodate the discharge.  The Feather River had one of these natural spillways at Hamilton Bend, the escape waters running westerly north of the Buttes, thence into Butte Slough.  Another natural spillway was what is now known as Yuba City Slough, its entrance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Both the north and south ends of this slough were closed off with small levees after the flood of 1857 but without much success until in 1875, when the present levee system construction was commenced.  This new levee system effectually closed off this spillway of the Feather River, and formed, what was termed for many years "the Slough," in the City.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Back of my father's home at 8th and D Street, the lake was very wide in the winter time but in the summer it drained almost dry north to 14th Street and when I became old enough, my father bought me the first hammerless shot gun ever seen in Marysville, for which he paid $200.  I used to walk up the lake bottom as far as 14th Street and shoot ducks and snipe which were always plentiful.  Later on, as the rivers filled with debris and the lake could not drain dry, I was the proud possessor of the only round bottom boat with a large sail which I managed to capsize occasionally when a stiff north wind was blowing.  I took a lot of pleasure in that lake, boating, swimming and fishing and as I grew older, the idea came to me that some time it could be made a beautiful park and when I commenced to earn money, when opportunities offered, I bought up these "slough lots" at moderate prices, the taxes amounting to but little.  I kept acquiring lots in this way, until I owned the greater portion of the water area and conceived the idea of obtaining some of the shore properties.  It was then that I arranged to incorporate the "Ellis Lake Improvement Company"; this was in 1906, the officials were W. T. Ellis, Jr., President and C. F. Aaron, Secretary.</P>
136.sgm:<P>What properties I had been accumulating for a number of years past, and which were major lake portions, I turned over to the Company and took stock for.  We then sold some non-assessable stock to various parties, W. P. Hammon and John Martin each investing $500 and with these additional monies, more properties were purchased.  The new corporation had in all about two meetings of its Board of Directors and none afterward; in the meantime I continued to advance necessary monies for taxes, etc.</P>
136.sgm:<P>On December 7, 1914, I made an agreement with the Mayor and Council, that if they would fill in D Street, carry out a sewer to the north side of 14th Street, to keep sewage out of the lake, and make improvements on the lake area, that the Ellis Lake Improvement Company would deed all its properties, consisting of about twenty-five acres to the City for the sum of $1.00.  The City accepted the offer and about two years afterward, when improvements were completed, the deed to all the properties was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>When we deeded this property over to the City, we reserved out the large area, 200 feet x 160 feet on the northeast corner of D and 13th Streets.  Six years later, I waited on the Council and told them that this property really should belong to the lake area and that for some sixteen years I had been paying all the taxes and other expenses of the Ellis Lake Improvement Company and that this had amounted to $1016.77 and suggested that if they were interested in this property, I would sell it to them for the sum of $1000, provided they accepted the same on the basis of the original transfer of the larger area, which was that it was to be used solely for park purposes by the City.  As the price I offered for this new property to the City was much less than its actual value, (the City's valuation on same being $3,550) the offer was accepted and in June 1922 the property was turned over to the City.  This last tract was never improved, but all the balance of the lake property has been highly improved and the Natatorium was built on land which was included in the first One Dollar sale.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1926 the Elks Home Lodge Building on D Street between 1st and 2nd Streets was destroyed by fire and the Lodge cast about for a new location.  They finally decided they would like to build a new home on D Street, fronting the lake, and selected their present site.  This was part of the property which had been deeded to the City by the Ellis Lake Improvement Company, and I raised objection to the City giving this property away as the consideration was to be only $10, also, that I had a provision in the deed that it must be used only for "park purposes."  They then had the title looked up and claimed that my original title to the property was defective, notwithstanding that I had owned and had had possession of the property for a good many years and had always paid taxes on same.  Many of my brother Elks finally persuaded me not to make any objections; a suit to quiet title was commenced and as President of the old Ellis Lake Improvement Company I was made a defendant; when the suit came up I intentionally failed to appear and so permitted the City to acquire clear title; the City then deeded the property to the Elks Home Association for $10.00 in 1928 and the present very fine Elks Home building was erected.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In connection with Ellis Lake, I am reminded of an amusing incident which occurred when Patrick C. Slattery was Mayor in 1888.  In those days there were some two or three boats on the lake, which were in good demand, particularly on moonlight nights, when young men would take their girls out for a boat ride.  Some one conceived the idea that it would be nice to have some gondolas on the lake, (like they have in Venice); a delegation appeared before Mayor Slattery and his councilmen one evening and made the suggestions that the "City dads" cooperate and arrange to have a half dozen gondolas on the lake to make it more attractive.  Now "Mayor Pat" (as he was often called), did not know and was not informed what a "gondola" was; he thought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>WHY ELLIS LAKE WILL PROBABLY NEVER BE FILLED</P>
136.sgm:<P>At various times, I have heard suggestions made that the lake should eventually be filled thereby making a land park in place of a lake park.  Those persons making these suggestions do not realize the cost, as the following will show:</P>
136.sgm:<P>1.  The water in the lake is an average of about five feet deep and to fill, just to the average water surface and only between 9th and 14th Streets, would require approximately 182,756 cubic yards of material.</P>
136.sgm:<P>2.  There is no material close at hand, the only available material being about three-quarters of a mile distant on the water side of the levee in the vicinity of the Simpson Lane bridge.  Assuming that this material could be secured and hauled by trucks, it probably would cost not less than 50c per cubic yard, in which case, the filling would cost approximately $91,378.  Now remember that this would be only to the present average water surface; if the fill should be made level with B Street, the cost would be about double the above sum.  I do not believe that the City would ever bond itself for, say $182,756, for such a purpose.</P>
136.sgm:<P>3.  Again, assuming that the lake was so filled, then the City would be put to the added cost of a vastly larger pumping plant to care for the rain water which falls within the City limits and at times requires pumping when the rivers happen to be higher than the lake surface.</P>
136.sgm:<P>4.  Such a larger capacity pumping plant would be necessary as the following will demonstrate.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The area of the City inside the seven miles of levee is 1418 acres.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When an inch of rain falls, it is equivalent to 110 tons of water to an acre.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>An inch of rainfall is equivalent to 32,079,414 gallons of water on the 1418 acres in the City limits and all of this reaches the lake by means of sewers and open drains.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Some winter seasons we have as much as 20 inches of rainfall, so in such a case, during such a winter season, there reaches the lake the enormous amount of 641 millions of gallons of water.  The present storage capacity of the lake is such, that it acts as a regulating reservoir, this water accumulating and at the same time escaping through the pipe under the levee at E and 15th Streets into Feather River, when that river happens to be low; but when high enough to shut off this drainage, the lake accommodates the various storm waters without the necessity of pumping, but quite frequently pumping must be resorted to, but much more frequently, was the storage capacity of the lake largely reduced.  The cost of a larger pumping plant to care for such a situation would be another very heavy expense for installation and added cost for electric power.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I do not anticipate the lake will ever be filled.</P>
136.sgm:<P>FRESH WATER SUMMER SUPPLY FOR ELLIS LAKE</P>
136.sgm:<P>About thirty years ago there was a public demand for fresh water for Ellis Lake, which at that time had not been improved, as at present.  As a result of this agitation, I superintended the construction of a pipe through the levee at 12th and Covillaud Streets, so as to obtain a gravity water supply from the Yuba River.  The levee was cut for a depth of twenty-two feet and through the levee base itself, a concrete tunnel pipe was constructed, with a brick "chimney" on each end in which were steel shut-off gates for safety.  All this concrete tunnel pipe was constructed in place with walls about six inches thick, the walls being reinforced with 1150 feet of small railroad track iron.  It was a first class job, I looked out for that as the cutting of a levee is always a hazard if the earth is not replaced properly by being moistened and properly tamped, while filling proceeds.  From the south end of the concrete tunnel, a large square redwood box was laid underground, reaching to the river bank and below (at that time), the summer level of the river.  The cost of cutting the levee, tunnel and two brick chimneys was $2491.31 while the redwood box, leading to the river underground was $1717.07 making the total cost $4,198.38.  The north (or discharge end) connected with an open ditch at the base of the levee to the east end of 10th Street and from there, following the south side of 10th Street to the lake, a large concrete pipe is laid underground, conducting the water to the lake.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This worked very satisfactorily for several years, until the river gradually scoured and the intake of the pipe became several feet above the summer river level, which stopped its operation.  I have several large photographs, taken during the construction of this piece of work.</P>
136.sgm:<P>There is no good reason why the pipe could not now be used for a water supply for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The average water capacity of that portion of the lake between 9th and 14th Street is approximately 36,912,410 gallons.  If a pumping plant with a capacity of only 2500 gallons of water per minute was installed, this would be sufficient to change all the water between 9th and 14th Streets about every fifteen days.  I have on several occasions brought this to the attention of the City authorities, but so far without results.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>A Big Fire Loss</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN OUR STORE business we experienced one small fire loss at one time amounting to about $500, but our most serious fire damage was in the property known as the Ellis Block, on June 18, 1925.  We got no financial settlement until seven months later, on January 18, 1926 and always considered that we were defrauded out of $14,000 when a settlement was finally made; our indirect loss was even greater.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The fire started in the center of the Block in the very large store occupied by the S. D. Johnson Furniture Company; the original founder, S. D. Johnson had died some time before and the business was being conducted by his oldest son.  Every circumstance indicated that the fire was incendiary but could not be proven.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Immediately after the fire, and at the direction of the adjusters, we employed a local contractor, Mr. I. C. Evans, to make an estimate of the cost of replacement of the buildings as they were before the fire and he submitted later on a detailed estimate showing a loss of $82,547.06 which included a deduction for depreciation.  Seven different companies held the insurance and they were represented by two adjusters, A. M. Peckham and Charles A. Stuart of San Francisco.  Mr. Evans and I met with them; Mr. Evans presented his large sheaf of estimates, on the first page of which was a recapitulation of various items showing a total of $82,547.06.  Mr. Peckham picked up the package of papers, glanced at the total sum shown and throwing them back on the desk, remarked "All that glitters is not gold."  That was one occasion when I was "real mad."  I was tempted to slap his face and tell him that negotiations were off, but on second thought, decided it was best to "keep cool"; I then asked Mr. Evans to go over his figures with the two adjusters himself and what he agreed to, would be satisfactory to me.  They spent several days going over the estimates, agreeing on no items but making memorandums, finally they told us what sum they would allow and remarked "and that is final."  Mr. Evans requested to know how they had arrived at their offer; they refused details; they then demanded arbitration which we agreed to.  I nominated Mr. Evans and they immediately declined to permit him to be an arbitrator; after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>When settlement was made, I told one of the adjusters that I intended to give the matter publicity; that I did not propose to take such treatment and be expected to "keep quiet and like it"; that I proposed to give him and the companies he represented some unpleasant notoriety.  He laughed at me.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The year previous to the fire, I had opened up a Real Estate &amp; Insurance business and the companies I represented were "Board" companies.  I immediately cancelled all these agencies and took new agencies in "Non-Board" companies and proceeded to switch all our business to these new companies.  On the front of one of the brick buildings in the center which had been burned and not repaired, I had erected a large canvas sign, about fifteen feet square and on same was wrinted in large letters:</P>
136.sgm:<P>LEST WE FORGET</P>
136.sgm:<P>These ruins were insured in the following Board Companies:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Scottish Union &amp; National Insurance Co.</P>
136.sgm:<P>United States Merchants &amp; Shippers.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Insurance Company of North America.</P>
136.sgm:<P>North British &amp; Mercantile Co.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Alliance Insurance Co.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LARGE CLOTH SIGN, PLACED ON THE WALL OF THE PARTIALLY DESTROYED "ELLIS BLOCK" AFTER THE FIRE ON JUNE 18TH, 1925</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LARGEST GOLD DREDGER IN THE WORLD OPERATED BY YUBA CONSOLIDATED GOLD FIELDS COMPANY AT HAMMONTON, TEN MILES EAST OF MARYSVILLE COST ABOUT $750,000 AND DIGS 140 FEET DEEP FROM THE SURFACE OF THE GROUND</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Old Colony Insurance Co.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Agricultural Insurance Co.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"ALL THAT GLITTERS IS NOT GOLD."</P>
136.sgm:<P>The "All that glitters is not gold" was in bright red letters and it was the remark which had been made to me the first day I had presented Mr. Peckham with Mr. Evans' estimate of damage.  This sign attracted great attention.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I followed this up with a series of advertisements in the local newspaper, the first advertisement being a full page, giving in detail all the controversies and difficulties I had had with the adjustment of the loss.  Each day the advertisements were different; they were commented on by other newspapers in the Valley.  I commenced to get letters from various parts of the State asking for information as to what it was all about; I received so many letters of inquiry that I had to have a mimeographed letter of explanation run off so I could give an answer and save time in replying.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The local Association of Insurance Agents, representing Board Companies were "peeved"; one of their members wrote to the State Fire Insurance Commissioner complaining about my advertisements and requesting that he force me to stop such advertising or have my license revoked.  The State Fire Insurance Commissioner under date of February 26, 1926 wrote me to the effect that my advertisements "were not ethical" and to cease such advertising.  I replied stating that I had to admit that my advertisements were hardly "ethical" but claimed that the treatment which had been given me by these insurance companies "was not ethical either" and that I had laid out a plan for some advertising and intended to carry out the plan.  I received another letter of warning but finished my advertising plan and that was the last I heard from the Commissioner's office.</P>
136.sgm:<P>These advertisements caused widespread public interest.  I did not realize that it was going to enable me to "capitalize on my fire loss," but that was the result, as for the next twelve months or more, without any solicitation on my part, I averaged an insurance application each day, various persons calling at my office and giving me their business, and our business in this line has been steadily growing ever since.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Trustee for Bondsmen</P>
136.sgm:<P>ON November 6, 1888 George W. Pine was elected Treasurer of Yuba County by a majority of two votes over George Holland, who had been Treasurer for several years previous.  In those days, only personal bonds were given by county officials and not security by bonding companies, as at present.  Now here is some hidden history which was never publicly disclosed.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>It appears that when Mr. Holland was defeated, he was short in his accounts about $5000.00 so when the time came for Mr. Pine to take over the office, Holland withdrew another $5000.00 and when the transfer of the office was made, and the cash was counted, the shortage was discovered and acknowledged by Holland; his bondsmen were notified, a meeting was arranged with Pine and Holland.  Holland made the proposal, that if Pine would retain him as Pine's deputy, that he would return the $5000.00 he had last withdrawn and would, out of his salary, pay back each month a certain sum and so eventually make up his first shortage; the arrangement was known only to Pine, Holland and Holland's bondsmen and Pine took his office with a shortage of about $5000.  It was a fool arrangement for Pine to accept but no doubt he was influenced by some, or perhaps all of Holland's bondsmen, who were also friends of Pine; so Pine took office with this $5000.00 shortage and trusted to Holland to "make it good" by appointing Holland as his deputy.  Holland, however, did not continue as deputy very long; he and Pine could not agree, so Pine appointed a Mr. Jenkins as deputy and was still "holding the bag" for Holland's shortage.  From time to time, Pine would "go on a spree" for several days, presumably when the matter preyed on his mind, but he was a very popular official and in those days, just an occasional "spree" was not particularly looked upon with disfavor.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Eventually, Pine himself presumedly commenced to do some "defaulting" and in 1912 when an expert was examining the County's affairs, the shortage was discovered and it was disclosed that Pine had been able all the time to hide his shortage through the fact that he had deposit certificates from a local bank.  In those days, partial withdrawals would be endorsed on the back of these certificates and when the cash was counted each month, Pine would do the counting and fail to show the backs of these certificates which had withdrawals, but this, the expert discovered.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Representing Pine's bondsmen (of which my father was one), I took charge of the office that day and I never saw a man so relieved as was Pine by the discovery; he was exceedingly cheerful, humming and whistling and joking, in fact he was glad the matter was "off his mind" and so told me and said he was ready to "take his medicine."  The matter of Holland's shortage was disclosed and to determine on what set of bondsmen the liability lay, a suit was commenced and the court held that Pine's bondsmen were given the responsibility of making up the shortage, which amounted to $11,587 and this sum was paid into the County Treasury.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Pine's attorney, W. H. Carlin insisted that Pine stand trial, feeling that he could possibly save Pine a conviction because of Holland's previous shortage, but Pine refused and pleaded guilty and went to State's Prison for a number of years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The following article appeared twelve years later in the local newspaper:</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Bill Ellis is playing Santa Claus this week to some of our prominent citizens.  Some twelve years ago, a certain Yuba County official got his financial accounts considerably mixed and as a result, his bondsmen, fourteen in number, found it necessary to pay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>President District Agricultural Fair</P>
136.sgm:<P>I WAS always interested in horses, as was my older sister, and when we were quite young, we both had riding ponies.  When we got older, we both had fine saddle animals.  We were always competing in racing, jumping fences and ditches and it was an accident when her horse stumbled and fell on her, which eventually contributed to her death in 1883; she was five years older than myself.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was about 1888 that I took a great fancy to a saddle horse which I used to hire from the old Fashion stables in San Francisco and every time I went to the City, would secure this animal and take rides in Golden Gate Park; it was "quite the thing" to do in those days.  I purchased this animal for $500.00 the following year and was quite envied by other horse fanciers in town.  This animal was a very beautiful chestnut mare, broken, not only for a saddle horse, but a buggy horse as well.  When hitched to a buggy she invariably was a trotter, but when under saddle was always a "single footer"; when under saddle, she would invariably arch her neck and want to prance slightly sideways; she always showed "class."</P>
136.sgm:<P>James Littlejohn of Sutter County, one of the Board of Directors of the District Fair Association, resigned and on May 9th, 1889, I was appointed a Director to fill the vacancy by Governor Waterman and at once became President of the Association and served until December 1, 1892.  I presume it was because of my interest in horses that I was recommended by the other Directors for appointment.  For agricultural exhibits, etc., we had a very large pavilion situated on the north side of Third Street, between A and Chestnut streets; our race track was situated where the present Junior College buildings are now located.  In earlier days the race track was located about two miles north of Marysville on the ranch afterwards owned by L. B. Hickerson, now owned by Manuel Gomes.  One of the old race horse stables still exists there, with its fancy wooden "flutings" on the edges of the roof.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>There was great interest in these fairs those days and towns such as Woodland, Colusa, Chico, Red Bluff and Marysville were in a circuit and some of the best racing horses in the State used to attend this circuit and finally go to Sacramento for the State Fair racing.  At the Pavilion, every one who entered an exhibit got some cash prize and I well remember that many women were interested in bed quilts which they made of scraps of cloth in intricate designs and as these quilts were not needed in the summer time, invariably they would be entered for prizes, year after year.  I presume they paid for themselves many times over with the annual cash prizes they were always awarded and to keep out of trouble with the women owners, those who had quilts to exhibit were each given the same amount of cash prize.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As for the races, they were always well attended and betting on the races was rampant as was also gambling in town.  It was always a lively week in Marysville, the country people coming almost every day and the racing stables attracting the sporting element in large numbers, who "took in" the racing circuit which always ended at the Sacramento State Fair, where many of us would go and have a lively time, all "dolled up," with brown plug hats, dark blue cutaway coats, fancy vests and pale gray striped trousers.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>A. C. Bingham</P>
136.sgm:<P>ATKINS Clark Bingham arrived in Marysville in 1866; he was a native of Norwich, Connecticut, where as a young man he was employed in the Norwich Savings Bank, obtaining a good training to fit him for his new field in the banking business in Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>He first came to Marysville to visit his uncle, E. E. Hutchinson, who then owned the famous New England Orchard.  This is still a famous orchard, now being owned by the Earl Fruit Co., situated in the bottom lands of District No. 784, about five miles south of Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Bingham worked for a while as accountant for the Union Lumber Co., and later on was employed by the banking house of Rideout &amp; Smith.  Later still, he became associated with the Decker-Jewett Bank with which institution he was connected until his death in 1917, at the age of 70 years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>He became a full partner of the old private firm of Decker &amp; Jewett in 1869 and, in 1888, when the partnership was dissolved and the bank became a corporation under the name of Decker-Jewett Bank, Bingham became cashier and manager.  At his death, Bingham also was president of the Marysville Water Company.</P>
136.sgm:<P>For two terms he was president of the Marysville Levee Commission (1888 to 1896); he was also Mayor of Marysville for two terms (1882 to 1886) and refused a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A. C. BINGHAM, 1847-1917</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE AUTHOR WHEN APPOINTED TO STATE RECLAMATION BOARD IN 1912</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>As a banker he was very conservative and I remember that in 1907 when a moratorium was declared by the Governor for all banks in the State because of a financial depression, the Decker-Jewett Bank was, I understood, the only bank in the State that did not close its doors and take advantage of that moratorium but continued open and granting necessary accommodations to its customers.  This was possible through the co-operation of Mr. Decker and Mr. Jewett, who having other independent resources in stocks, bonds, etc., cashed in on them promptly and deposited these moneys in the bank and, as Bingham expressed it to me one day in the bank, "We have enough ready cash in the vault to pay every depositor in full, should they call and demand their money."</P>
136.sgm:<P>In July of the early '70's, an event occurred in Bingham's life which was long remembered.  At that time the Decker-Jewett Bank was located in the rear of my father's store, at the southeast corner of High and First Streets; two men attempted to rob the bank, believing at the noon hour that no one was in the bank except Mr. Jewett.  One of the men stood outside as a lookout, the other one entering the bank and demanding of Mr. Jewett that he turn money over to him; upon Jewett's refusal, the robber struck Jewett over the head with a large old fashioned Colt's revolver which felled Jewett.  Bingham, who happened to be late going to lunch, was in the rear office and, hearing the commotion, rushed out with a sawed-off shotgun loaded with buckshot and shot and killed the robber on the spot.  The other robber was later apprehended and served a term in State's prison.  After that, invariably Bingham always was armed with a revolver.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When I became Mayor and "started things" in the way of public improvements, he called me to his office one day and said, "Young man, you are going pretty fast but I believe that your policies are sound and that the time is really ripe for public improvements, so I am going to back you," and he did.  That was of great assistance to me for the next four years, when I initiated one improvement after another and with the united backing of the members of the City Council, "put over" everything we planned; it wasn't easy at times, as there was much division of public sentiment at times and in those days everyone had an opinion and was not backward about expressing his sentiments and, as for the two newspapers, they generally had different opinions and sometimes one would be for us and the other against, while on other occasions, they would reverse their positions.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When Bingham was a Levee Commissioner, he was a very active one, putting in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Every spring, Bingham and I would take a trip down the Yuba River from Daguerre Point to Marysville, observing what changes had been made by the preceding winter's floods.  We had a canvas boat for that purpose which we would take to Daguerre Point to launch, and as at that time, the river had several branches from there on down stream, we would debate for some time, which channel to take.  After making a decision, and well started on our way, we wish we had taken some other channel as sand bars were frequently encountered and we would have to wade and pull the boat behind us and, as the water was very muddy, we could not discover deep stretches until we had often times stepped into holes, sometimes over our heads.</P>
136.sgm:<P>During the old hydraulic mining fight, Bingham took a lively interest and again I trained under him in that line of endeavor.  In each Legislature, the subject was a leading one, each side trying for favorable legislation.  In those days the Southern Pacific Railroad Company was "California's Boss," and in many instances, opposing candidates for members of the Legislature each received financial aid for their campaigns, so no matter which one won in such cases, the successful one was under obligations to the railroad company, which always had to combat "cinch bills," introduced by some Legislators in an effort to "shake down" the railroad company for some "easy money."  The railroad company in those days had a personal representative at each legislative session to look out for their interests; he was a blind man by the name of Christopher Buckley, better known as "Boss Buckley."  He was a fine looking, large man, a San Francisco old time politician and ruled politics in San Francisco.  He was crafty and keen witted and "knew his politics" and when the Legislature was in session, would sit in a chair by the lobby rail, listening in on what was occurring and with many lieutenants, kept in touch with the Legislators in both houses.</P>
136.sgm:<P>He was employed by the railroad company to look out for its interests; as to other legislation, he could do as he pleased--which he did.  For example, there was some anti-hydraulic mining legislation coming up, the fight was "hot" on both sides, Boss Buckley was "influenced" by the miners; he took their program and, through his influence, when a vote was taken, the valley interests lost.  Bingham was there at the time, he knew just what had "happened"; he took the first train back to Marysville, raised $10,000.00 and returned the next day.  He had an "interview" with Buckley.  The matter was again brought up, and there was a "reconsideration" before the Assembly (we had previously won out in the Senate, as I remember it).  Another vote was taken and our side won; and "were the miners mad!"  The Act became a law, and Bingham was the town's idol.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As I remember it, this legislation was in connection with the serving of injunctions against mining which was doing damage.  For many years, an injunction had to be served on the owner of the mine, who usually "disappeared" and could not be found; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>First Campaign for Mayor and Defeat</P>
136.sgm:<P>SHORTLY after retiring from office as a County Supervisor, I announced that I proposed to be a candidate for the office of Mayor.  Those were the days of the old convention system and every two years, the Republicans and Democrats would hold conventions and the delegates select their candidates for the several offices to be filled.  Some of the leading Democratic politicians, believing that my record as a Supervisor might make me an available candidate on their ticket and because my father, being a Democrat, they assumed that I was also, although as a Supervisor, I had been elected as an independent candidate, they waited upon me and offered me the nomination.  I told them I would want to know who would be on the ticket for four Councilmen and they told me who were "slated" for those positions; I told them that the names were not satisfactory and that I would accept the nomination, provided the parties selected to run for Councilmen were satisfactory to me.  This they refused to do, so I told them then, that I would arrange for an independent convention and we would then have three tickets in the field, Republican, Democrat and Progressive American ticket.  They told me that if I did, they would see that my ticket was defeated; a good hot fight was in prospect.</P>
136.sgm:<P>My friends then called for a meeting at the City Hall on February 22, 1890 which was held and a full ticket put in the field.  I was nominated for Mayor and J. O. Rusby, John C. White, I. W. Bradley and Peter Engel, nominated for Councilmen.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Soon afterwards, the Republicans and the Democrats arranged to have conventions, separately, but on the same day.  These two Conventions were both held in separate places in the morning, but at noon time, mutual arrangements were made for a joint or fusion convention in the afternoon as the principal politicians of these two conventions had made up their mind that I was a "young up-start" who needed a "dressing down" and my ticket must be defeated.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This fusion convention in the afternoon then nominated for Mayor, John C. Hoffstetter, and for Councilmen, H. M. Harris, N. V. Nelson, D. Condon and John Peffer.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Both sides made an intensive campaign for votes and I had one amusing experience.  There was a lady in town who always tried to take a great interest in matters of both private and public concern.  She was quite a "reformer" and quite a "puritan" and rather prone to gossip and criticize the actions of others.  She was very strict, severe, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>When the votes were counted, I was defeated by 63 votes, Rusby by 48 votes, White by 132 votes, Bradley by 182 votes and Engel by 155 votes.  901 votes were cast at the election.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Under the then prevailing convention system, ballots were passed around to any one and there were in those days, about 150 persons who were always willing to sell their vote for $2.50, the purchaser putting the ballot in the voter's hand, which he kept in plain sight, the purchaser walked behind him to the polling place and watched him give the ticket to the polling clerk and then walk away and would then give him the $2.50.  The day of the election, these persons who were in the habit of selling their votes, congregated in groups, and held off selling out too soon, knowing that it had been a warm campaign and expecting better prices.  Personally I was opposed to the practice, these votes usually were the "balance of power" and had always been purchased by the Republicans in the past, most of the money coming from the Rideout Bank and the Buckeye Milling Company interests for "campaign purposes" and who controlled "town politics."  That day Tom MacNamee who did the "practical" politics, commenced to believe that it was going to be a close election, so raised the bid for votes to $3.50 and commenced to gather in these voters.  I "got hot in the collar," went to the bank and drew out some money to "play the same game," but I was too late, they had been mostly bought up.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When the votes had been counted and my friends and I saw that our ticket was defeated, a few of us were at my office, talking of the day's events and about midnight, decided to go up-town and get drinks and go home.  We went to Billy Ward's saloon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I always felt sorry for Mayor Hoffstetter, his Council would not work in harmony with him; several times, when Council meetings were called to decide on some matter, some of the Council members would "run out" on him and he was forced to have the City Marshal attempt to place them under arrest and make them attend such meetings.  He was timid about expenditures and because I had been his opponent, usually consulted me to be sure there would not be any criticism from our side; he was very much relieved when his term of office ended; he did not like politics.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LVI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Elected Mayor, First Term</P>
136.sgm:<P>Street Railroad</P>
136.sgm:<P>AFTER Mayor Hoffstetter had served for two years as Mayor, Mr. Norman Rideout was then elected Mayor and served the following two years.  Both of these gentlemen were bankers and, as usual with bankers, they were conservative and their thoughts were on lower tax rates and no expenditures for public improvements, for which there was considerable agitation.  I was among those who were quite persistently talking public improvements, so when Mayor Rideout was about to retire, my friends in both parties agitated for my nomination for Mayor.  When the Republicans and Democrats held their separate conventions, each party nominated separate candidates for all the various offices except that of Mayor, and I was nominated for Mayor by both parties, which I accepted, as the various candidates on both tickets were satisfactory to me, which ever side won out.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When the election was over, the candidates who were elected for Councilmen were, W. F. Kelly, Martin Sullivan, L. C. Williams, and B. Mehl, and they were the ones I had hoped would be elected.  This was on March 21st, 1894.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The night of the election, I was "tipped off" that some of my friends were going to come up to my father's home and pay me a visit and serenade me.  I knew what that meant and made preparations.  In our house we had one large billiard room; I had the billiard table covered with oilcloth, all the chairs removed, engaged three bartenders, laid in a big supply of beer, whiskey and champagne, and waited for the visitors.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>W. T. ELLIS SENIOR, 1826-1913 PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN IN 1900</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE AUTHOR WHEN FIRST ELECTED MAYOR IN 1894</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>In addition to the street work, some of the money was to be expended for filling in the streets and alleys in the lake area between 2nd and 9th Streets, which resulted in a "checkerboard" of half blocks, of stagnant water, these lots being privately owned; this resulted in an anticipated nuisance and we then forced the owners to abate the nuisances on their private holdings by filling in their properties also.  This made a lot of mighty indignant property owners but we "stood pat" and most all of them filled sufficiently to abate the nuisance which had been created, while some refused, and in those cases, the City filled the lots and took ownership.  We then sold a few of these lots for about one half what it had cost to fill them (these were at 3rd and Orange Streets) to T. J. O'Brien, Edgar Taber and others, with their promise to build homes on these properties, in an effort to start home building in that area.</P>
136.sgm:<P>For this action I had a lot of criticism leveled at me, but time demonstrated that it was good business policy, as it was not long after that many homes were erected in the newly filled area resulting in increased City assessment; the "barrier" of the lake between 2nd and 9th Streets was eliminated and gradually all the area west of G Street was built up as a residential section.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Advertisements were inserted for performing these various improvements; Gladding-McBean &amp; Co. secured the award for sewer pipe, placing the sewers in position was awarded partly to C. D. Vincent and partly to William Heafey, while the filling of the streets and alleys, amounting to about $26,000, was awarded to C. D. Vincent.  It might be interesting to note that Vincent's bid was only eighteen and two-fifths cents per cubic yard and he did the work with horses and wagons and loaded the wagons by men with shovels and made a fair profit when the job was completed; but hay and feed, men and teams did not get the prices which prevail, these later days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>STREET RAILROAD</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1894, a franchise for a street railroad between Marysville and Yuba City had been granted to D. E. Knight and his associates but it was not until March 6th, 1894, that an amended franchise was granted and the street car system was installed and put in operation.  The company had two small cars, the motor power consisting of two small mules to each car; the service was rather slow but it filled a long felt want; the profits were very lean and with the idea of improving the service with more speed, Mr. Knight contracted for a gasoline motor car, to replace the mules, with a Mr. Best of Stockton (who afterwards made a success of the Best Caterpillar tractors).  This motor car was finally installed and Mr. Best and Mr. Knight made the first trip and the public turned out to witness the innovation; the motor developed considerable troubles on its various trips which Mr. Best endeavored to correct.  The cost was to be $3000, and was guaranteed to be successful but apparently Mr. Best had secretly come to the conclusion that it would not be a success, particularly as the public had commenced to make objections to the noise, and it was constantly scaring horses and causing many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:"runaways."  So after he finished his repairs and alterations, he assured Mr. Knight that it would work properly thereafter and that he needed the money badly and if Mr. Knight would accept same at once, he would throw off $500 and let Mr. Knight have it at a bargain for $2500.  Mr. Knight "fell" for the offer and paid for the motor car and continued to try and operate it, but by that time, the public was quite aroused by the noise and the frightening of horses, and the <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm:<P>These mule cars were operating when I became Mayor and started the paving of D Street from First to Fourth Street, and I demanded from Mr. Knight that he replace the small narrow "T" rails with heavier "grooved" rails.  Mr. Knight told me that he would replace the old rails with heavier rails but that he was a better judge of what kind of rails were necessary than I was and what new rails he ordered would be put down.  Again I warned him that he must replace with grooved rails.  Shortly after, he had a gang of men tearing up the old rails and started to replace them with similar rails, only heavier.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Accompanied by our City Engineer, George Holland, we went to the scene of operations and warned the foreman in charge of the work crew to stop putting down the objectionable rails.  This led to an argument and finally the foreman called me a liar and picking up a crowbar, started after Holland and myself with it and, as he was a very large, husky man and the crowbar looked like a very formidable weapon, Holland and myself took to our heels and ran to the sidewalk, where a large crowd had assembled to "watch the fun."  Bets were being offered that I would have to "back down" and that Knight, with his influence with my father would have his way.  I was "placed on the spot" and I knew it, so I immediately swore out a warrant for the foreman's arrest for "assault and battery," and he was placed under arrest.  Mr. Knight put up bonds for his release and then came down to my father's office to see me and father.  Mr. Knight was "mad as a March hare," told me that I was discharged as secretary of the company (which, by the way, paid no salary), that I would soon find out "who was running this town" and that before he got through with me, "he would drive a 20 mule team through me and my gang," etc.  My father, who was close by, listened to the rather heated conversation, sided with Mr. Knight, and I was told by him that I was no longer in his employ and to look elsewhere for a job.  I put on my hat and walked out.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I immediately consulted the City Attorney and ascertained that the Mayor and Council had full authority to regulate the type of rails which should be installed; I sent this word to Mr. Knight and he finally placed the proper and required type of rail on the streets, much to his disgust and chagrin.  He never spoke to me again, which I always regretted as he was a mighty fine man.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As for my job, which I had lost, I did not go home, but got a room downtown and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>When Mr. Knight found this out, he almost had a "falling out" with my father, particularly when father told him that he had made up his mind that I was right about wanting grooved rails and that the other type of rails would not have made a good job.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When I first became Mayor, all streets were graveled, with plenty of red dirt in the gravel; the streets were exceedingly muddy in the winter and very dusty in the summer, notwithstanding that the main streets were wet down by sprinkling tank wagons each day.  At street intersections, crossings for pedestrians consisted of two rows of granite blocks, which would get quite muddy in winter also, necessitating ladies (whose dresses touched the ground those days) lifting their dresses and skirts, exposing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:their ankles, much to the edification of the "sidewalk Johnnies."  Similar necessity occurred during the summer months when dust accumulated at times several inches deep on these granite crossings.  A favorite "ditty" with the ladies those days was as follows:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"These are the days when the north wind blows,<LB>And flies our skirts knee high;<LB>But God is just and sends the dust,<LB>Which blows in the bad man's eye."</HI>
136.sgm:<P>In those days, also, merchants had the habit and practice of blocking the sidewalks with merchandise on display all day; trunks, wheelbarrows, cases of groceries, etc., and the "gents furnishing stores" always had dummies against the walls, displaying full suits of clothes on them, a small chain being run up through the arms and attached to the building wall, so no one could steal a coat or vest off the dummy, the pants being fairly safe.  The fire department those days had the fire hose on a large reel on two wheels, which was drawn by six husky firemen; if the streets happened to be very muddy, they would take a particular delight in drawing this "hose wagon" along the sidewalks, scattering trunks, wheelbarrows and dummies in all directions.  The populace at large would enjoy this fun, but the merchants would give vent to profane expressions of disapproval.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When I became Mayor, I gave orders to have all sidewalks kept clear of such obstructions; I had a tough job for a while as the merchants considered this "old Spanish custom" a "birthright."  Some merchants said, "This young Mayor Bill will never get elected again"--but I was.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In connection with the $40,000 bond issue, previously mentioned in this chapter, I had a very interesting and, at the time, a very disturbing experience.  The bonds which were voted by the citizens, were to bear 5 per cent interest and with the idea of obtaining votes, they were to be $100 bonds in place of the usual $500 or $1000 bonds, and in circulars which I mailed to the voters, I not only explained just what the bonds were to be used for, the necessity of these public improvements, etc., but that we hoped that all the citizens would purchase at least one bond, so that the interest could be "kept at home."  It helped to get votes.  However, when the bonds had been voted by a majority of about seven to one, we made no effort to carry out this plan but advertised the bonds for sale.  At that time, the <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm: was supporting the City administration but the <HI REND="italics">Democrat</HI>
136.sgm:, owned by Tom Sherwood and largely controlled by Mr. D. E. Knight, were bitterly opposed to the bond issue and when the bonds were actually voted, the <HI REND="italics">Democrat</HI>
136.sgm: came out with a scathing article and followed this with a comment of "now that the young Mayor has put his bond issue over, now let us see him sell his bonds," claiming that the interest rate (5 per cent) was too low.  I soon found out what he had in his mind when we advertised the bonds for sale and only one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>After some time, Mr. Meyer said, "Vell, Mr. Ellis, I will take the bonds if my lawyer tells me that they are good; haf you got them with you?"  I told him I had the bonds in the hotel safe and would go and get them and would be back in about an hour.  Now 400 bonds of $100 each made quite a large bundle, and when I went into Mr. Meyer's office and he saw that large bundle under my arm, he realized at once that they were all of small denomination, and in a loud shrill voice exclaimed, "Vot, hundred dollar bonds; you dam young fool, you dam young fool, do you tink I want to bother mit hundred dollar bonds, do you tink my safe is a varehouse big enough to store dat kind of bonds in it, do you tink I haf the time to spare to cut coupons off of hundred dollar bonds, do you tink I want to wear out scissors cutting off coupons on hundred dollar bonds, you dam young fool," etc. etc. etc.  I had to stand and "take it" and "like it" but when he finally quieted down and gave me a chance to talk, I told him I was quite sure I had explained to him that they were hundred dollar bonds, that he must have overlooked what I had told him and then I said, "Mr. Meyer, I never met you before, but I have heard a lot about you from many people and I have often <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:heard it said, that "Daniel Meyer's word is as good as his bond"; now Mr. Meyer, you told me that you would take the bonds and I am sure you are going to live up to your reputation and keep your word with me."  That seemed to please the old man for he said, "Vell, let's look at the bonds."  Now the bonds had my name printed on them as Mayor, but each bond was signed by hand by Justus Greeley as City Treasurer and immediately Mr. Meyer raised the point that my signature should have been also signed by hand and not printed.  I debated the matter with him for some time, claiming that the bonds complied with the law and finally he said he would have to consult his attorney, who had an office on the second floor.  His attorney was called in, a Mr. Silverstein, the point in question was explained and he returned upstairs, he said, to look up the law.  For the next half hour, I was told what a "dam fool" I was for having the bonds voted in denominations of $100 each in place of $1000 each.  Finally, I asked Mr. Meyer if he had any objections to me going upstairs and see how Mr. Silverstein was getting along and he replied, "Go right ahead, go right ahead."  I discussed the matter with Mr. Silverstein a while and finally "took a chance" and told him, "Now Mr. Silverstein there can be no question about those bonds being all right, I feel sure you haven't found anything to the contrary; now I feel that I have been the cause of taking up a lot of your time and feel that I should reimburse you"; with that, I handed him a $20 gold piece, Mr. Silverstein slipped it in his pocket and together we went downstairs and Mr. Silverstein told Mr. Meyer that he was quite sure the bonds were all right.  With some reluctance, Mr. Meyer gave me his check for $40,000.  The next day, September 17th, I turned the check over to the City Treasurer, with a "sigh of relief" and the <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm: the next day had an article doing a little "crowing" over the <HI REND="italics">Democrat</HI>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LVII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>ELECTED MAYOR, SECOND TERM</P>
136.sgm:<P>ON March 17th, 1896, another City election was held and as the work of the past administration apparently appealed to the mass of the citizens, the same Councilmen and myself were re-elected without any contest for another term of two years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The first work accomplished was improving D street from 4th to 5th, with a layer of natural bitumen from a Santa Cruz deposit on a concrete base, thence west on 5th Street to G Street, with a macadamized surface.  At that time the first electric power plant had been constructed in the mountains by John Martin and his associates; it was one of the first in the State and Mr. Martin took up with the Council the matter of furnishing electric lights for streets and submitted a bid to the Council for thirty-three arc lights for street lighting, at $6.00 per light per month.  The Gas Works Company in Marysville had been operated by David E. Knight for many years, and, anticipating the competition from the new power plant, which was to be operated with water <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:power, Mr. Knight had added to his gas plant a steam power electric plant to meet the competition, Mr. Knight being under the impression that the new opposition company was being constructed to force him (Knight) to buy them out.  He considered it just a "hold up" project; and Knight, being stubborn and a first class fighter, determined that he would not be "held up" and would try to prevent the new company getting any business.  So the day before Mr. Martin appeared before the Council, Mr. Knight obtained an injunction from the Superior Court to prevent the Mayor and Council letting any contract to the new company.  Feeling ran high and the <HI REND="italics">Daily Democrat</HI>
136.sgm: was almost daily "roasting" the Mayor and Council for proposing to let a contract to the new company without advertising for bids, but we countered by showing that the law permitted a City of less than 10,000 people to let contracts without bids if the price per light was less than $10 per month.  There wasn't enough room for people in the City Hall that night.  Speakers spoke both pro and con and then, after a hectic meeting, the Council passed a resolution awarding the contract to the new company.  For the next few days, the <HI REND="italics">Daily Democrat</HI>
136.sgm: "roasted" the Council unmercifully and I was charged with "insanity"; on the other hand, the Marysville <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm:<P>During this term of office, we added many blocks of improved streets and additional sewers, made further improvements in public parks, established a pumping plant for the lake at E and 15th Streets, made improvements at the cemetery, etc., etc.  We had "started something" in the way of public improvements, and this movement continued thereafter.  At first the citizens were about equally divided, our opponents placing all the blame on me personally, because of my "new fangled crazy notions" which were going to cause the tax payers more expense and there was some talk of impeaching me.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I was particularly fortunate in having associated with me such Councilmen as Messrs. Kelly, Williams, Mehl and Sullivan; they were absolutely independent, were "improvement minded," influences which were brought to bear never swerved their own good judgment and opinions; we all worked together in harmony as a unit.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I had only one regret and that was that the coming of electric power, in opposition to the very old established gas business of David Knight, resulted in a rift between Mr. Knight and myself which was never healed.  Mr. Knight was always exceedingly public spirited and charitable and was a leading citizen and almost always had had "his way."  Unfortunately he did not have the vision to realize that the "old way" could be superseded with a new and better way and also was obsessed with the idea that the new power project was just a "blackmailing scheme," as he called it, to compel him to buy them out; eventually the new power company bought him out as well as his large woolen mills plant.</P>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LVIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville Levee Commission</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE year following the 1875 flood in Marysville the State Legislature was approached which resulted in an Act being adopted on March 6, 1876, creating "A Board of Levee Commissioners for the City of Marysville" which is the same Act under which the City's Levee Commission has been operating ever since.  It provided for three Commissioners, to be elected every four years, to serve without salary or expenses, and to be under $10,000 bonds.  The Act gave power for the Commission to take property wanted for levee purposes and, if necessary, condemn same afterwards.  It has always been a question in my mind if such power was constitutional or not, but I do know, that it has permitted the Commission on many occasions to settle a price on some property with little argument and without a law suit.  As for a tax rate, the Act really permitted "the sky to be the limit"; under the City's charter, the Mayor and Council cannot borrow in excess of $10,000 for City purposes, except under a bond issue, but the City can borrow for levee purposes, any sum necessary with the assent of the Mayor and Council.  This Commission has more powers than any other similar Commission in the State and the importance of retaining the Levee Commission and these extraordinary powers, will be dwelt on in a succeeding chapter.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the first election, there were several candidates, my father being among the number; he ran fourth and so was defeated.  His opponent was an old German gentleman by the name of William Landis who, I presume, was comfortably well provided for and had always been a great walker on the levees, taking a stroll on the levee almost every day.  He always had a cheery salutation to every one of "wee gates," and was known to every one as "Father Wee-gates."  He objected to having his name proposed as a candidate, said he would refuse the office if elected and did refuse to act, when he was elected.  The other two successful candidates then offered the vacant position to my father, but I presume his pride was perhaps a little hurt and he refused; however, father became a member ofthe Commission in 1882 and served for 29 years.  My brother-in-law, A. C. Bingham, also became a member in 1888 and served for 8 years and was a very active member.  I was taking a great interest in flood matters at that time and "trained" under Bingham for several years and became a member of the Commission on January 9, 1900.  D. E. Knight having died I was appointed in his place and became President and served as President for 12 years until in 1913 when I resigned to go on the State Reclamation Board.  I kept in close touch with the Commission work in the meantime, until April 5, 1920 when I left the Reclamation Board and again became President of the Levee Commission and have been connected with the Commission ever since.</P>
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136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Levee Foreman</P>
136.sgm:<P>WHEN I became a Levee Commissioner on January 9, 1900 the foreman at that time was Michael Long, known by every one as Mike Long.  He had been foreman for a number of years before I went on the Commission.  At that same time, he had occasional assistants in Frank Smith and John (Jack) Cumisky, the latter still living in Marysville.  Mike Long died in 1907 and was succeeded by Frank Smith, who died in 1933 and was succeeded by Nels Nelson.  Only three different foremen in forty-five years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mike was quite a character, with a lot of good quiet Irish humor and he and I used to put in almost every Sunday, weather permitting, making trips of inspection of the levees, roaming about the Yuba River bottoms, making a study of the (then) innumerable channels, observing the changes made during the preceding winter and trying to guess what the river would attempt to do in the way of changes the next winter season.  In those times, the entire Yuba River bottoms, from Marysville to the edge of the foothills, a length of about ten miles, with an average width of about two and a half miles, had a dense growth of trees, underbrush, wild grapevines, blackberry bushes, etc., except for the many channels themselves, and it was with very considerable difficulty that any roaming about an area of about 16,000 acres was possible.  Where a channel was observed and which showed that the river had an inclination to head towards our levee system, brush dams or brush mattresses would be constructed.  As Mike was an expert in that line such work was usually effective and it was a rare occasion that one ever washed away.  While it was impossible to <HI REND="italics">control</HI>
136.sgm: the Yuba River, having a fall of about 9 feet to the mile and with a discharge of about 140,000 second feet, we found by experience that in most cases we could <HI REND="italics">guide and deflect</HI>
136.sgm: the river to places where we wanted it to go.  Frank Smith had been tutored under Mike Long and had learned his tricks of channel control.  Both these men were devoted to their duties, absolutely dependable, never excitable during flood periods and each of them seemed to take the attitude that the levee was his own personal property to be cared for the way a mother would for her child.  Each of them in turn, spent his entire working hours on the levee, summer and winter; in the summer time, making repairs and being particularly watchful for gophers and squirrels which are dangerous pests in connection with levees, and hundreds of these "varmints" were caught and killed each year either with traps or poison.  The proof of their vigilance is the fact that never since Mike Long came to the levee, has a gopher or squirrel hole ever caused trouble on our levee system, during high water periods, up to the present time.  Just the reverse has been the case many times in many other levee systems, (many locally) because of what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:might be termed, "criminal negligence" on the part of levee directors or, many times, because of parsimonious expenditures of levee funds, a "penny wise and pound foolish" policy which some levee districts have ascertained to their regret, when their levees have failed because of such neglect.  It should always be remembered, that just <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
136.sgm:<P>Seepage, either <HI REND="italics">through</HI>
136.sgm: the base or <HI REND="italics">under</HI>
136.sgm: the base of any levee is never dangerous if the seepage water is perfectly CLEAR, as that indicates that the water is simply "filtering" through a large area; if however, such seepage water is DISCOLORED AND PERHAPS MUDDY IN COLOR, that shows a dangerous situation, requiring prompt action.  In the latter case, the main source of such discolored water can be located, usually in one spot and if it is at, or close to the base of the levee, can be made secure by layers of bags, filled with sand or earth, spread over the area to "weight it down."  If the discolored water comes through the <HI REND="italics">side</HI>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>President Hallwood Irrigation Company</P>
136.sgm:<P>ABOUT 1905, some farmers commenced to take water from the Yuba River for irrigation purposes; later on, others joined in and eventually the Hallwood Irrigation Company was formed, which company later on, in conjunction with the Cordua Irrigation Company, joined in constructing a concrete tunnel through the hill at Daguerre Point for a joint water supply, the Hallwood Irrigation Company controlling two-thirds and the Cordua Company one-third of the water delivery of about 200 second feet.  In 1913, the Hallwood Company became a Mutual Water Company and later on financial troubles and misunderstandings between the Directors arose and at a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>At this meeting I was made acquainted with their troubles and difficulties and was asked to take the position of President of the Company.  I finally agreed, provided that I would be permitted to name the Board of Directors and with the understanding that I was to be also the Manager of the Company; this was agreed to.  I then selected a ditch superintendent, a secretary and a legal advisor and had the secretary open a new set of books.  The Company was indebted for borrowed money to the Rideout Bank and a private individual, Thomas Mathews, in the total sum of about $8000 which the Company was being pressed for but had failed to pay.  I managed the Company for about five and a half years, or until March 13, 1920 having in the meantime, liquidated all the Company's debts, and placed all the ditches, etc., in good condition and repair.  I then resigned my position and charged them no salary or expenses for my five and a half years' service.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Two years later, on February 17, 1922 I was again requested to attend a stockholders' meeting and it was explained that the Company was again in debt, the books had not been kept up to date and I was again asked to become President and Manager.  I finally agreed to do so, with the understanding that I was to again select the Directors, have a paid secretary and legal advisor but that they would have to pay me $50 per month for salary and expenses.  (This I voluntarily decreased later to $35 during the depression.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>This was agreed to and for the next fifteen years I managed the affairs of the Company, made many improvements, kept the Company out of debt and when I retired in 1937, the Company had 6298 shares of stock issued, applying on 6298 acres of land in the District.  The Company had thirty-three miles of ditches, several miles of which were concreted and a new intake for water supply, and which took about three years' effort to obtain, and which had cost the Company nothing but had cost the Yuba Consolidated Gold Fields about $30,000.00 to install, because of their interference in the Company's water supply as a result of seepage loss through the dredge tailings.  The Company when first formed delivered water only to the lands on the north side of the Yuba River levee but having an ample water supply, I persuaded the Directors to extend the delivery of water to a large area on the south side of the levee, generally known as the Hallwood bottom lands where about 1700 acres are now being irrigated.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Shortly after I first took over the Company, I found that one of the land owners had not turned over his old original issue of stock and obtained in return, a new certificate in the newly formed Mutual Company.  This led finally to much controversy and eventually culminated in a law suit which, however, was not pressed during the two years I retired from the Company management.  Upon becoming Manager again, I pressed this suit and the Company won in the Superior Court; an appeal was taken to the Supreme Court and the Company again won.  Not satisfied, the attorney for the land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>This Hallwood Irrigation Company is one of the best and cheapest irrigation districts in the State.  The Company, being a "mutual" company is not conducted for profit but only for service.  The Company levies three assessments per year of 50c each, making a total charge for water for the season of only $1.50 per acre and this charge is irrespective of the water's use, whether it be for rice, clover, orchards, vineyards, etc., etc.  Rice requires more water than almost any other crop, usually requiring at least an equivalent of seven feet of water per acre per year, and in other irrigation districts in this vicinity, as much as $8.50 an acre is charged for water, which the Hallwood Company delivers for $1.50 per acre.  The Company's assets, when I retired, had a book value of $32,992.35 which included the Company's water right which was carried on the books at $449.50 but for a fact, this water right alone is worth at least $75,000.00.  I believe that a conservative value of the Company's water right, ditches and other assets would be $100,000.00; this does not include any land as the only land the Company owns is about one acre, on which is situated the Ditch Superintendent's house which the Company furnishes him.  The Company has never had a bonded debt and if it continues in the future to operate on a "pay as you go basis," as in the past, continues to have harmony, as of late years, and cooperates with its neighbor irrigation district, the Company should continue to flourish and the land owners be successful in their agricultural pursuits.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It is prosperous community and the residents are a high type of American citizens.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Amusing Experience in a Federal Court</P>
136.sgm:<P>WHEN dredging for gold first commenced on the Yuba River, the first Company was the Yuba Consolidated Gold Fields.  Later on John Martin and his associates acquired a large area downstream from the former mentioned Company's holdings for gold dredging operations and their Company was called the Marysville Dredging Company.  The Yuba Consolidated Gold Fields had been operating for several years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:before the Marysville Dredging Company commenced to construct a dredge in the bottom lands near the south bank of the river and when this dredge was completed, its first operation was to dredge up a rock pile for some distance, directly north and south at right angles to the river channel.  This was done with the idea of protecting the dredge from the onslaught of a swift current which might occur the following winter.  This first protecting dredge embankment was approximately 2000 feet long and was situated about 3500 feet southwesterly from the lower extreme end of Daguerer Point Hill.  The latter Company used good judgment in doing this as later on a flood occurred and this dredge wall deflected the heavy current to the north and protected the dredge from the force of the water but, unfortunately, the current which was deflected northerly, was directed against the north training wall, which had been previously constructed, causing a break in that training wall.  This occurrence, together with the fact that before any gold dredging had commenced, we in Marysville had acquired easements for the Federal Government to conduct such operations as they saw fit in the then adopted plan to control the flow of debris and when the Yuba Consolidated Gold Fields commenced operations, they had asked for and obtained permission to operate dredgers on the lands covered with these easements, while the Marysville Dredging Company had declined to ask for and obtain similar permission from the Federal engineers, all of which resulted in unpleasant relations between the California Debris Commission and the Marysville Dredging Company.  This finally culminated in a suit entitled <HI REND="italics">United States</HI>
136.sgm: VS.  <HI REND="italics">Marysville Dredging Company</HI>
136.sgm:<P>The suit was in the Federal Court before Judge Van Fleet, and Colonel Rand of the California Debris Commission had invited me to come down and listen in and possibly render some assistance.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After a presentation of the complaint about damages, etc., by the attorneys representing the Federal Government, the defense put on their main witness, Mr. C. E. Grunsky, a very well known and eminent engineer who had a national reputation and who had been one of the members of the Panama Canal Commission when that canal was first being constructed.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After Mr. Grunsky had given his name, statement of his experiences and qualifications as an expert engineer on hydraulics, etc., he proceeded to state that he was very familiar with the Yuba River, had many years previously conducted surveys in connection with flood and debris control, that he had since then visited the Yuba River area on several occasions, several years apart, making casual observations and that he considered that he could explain just what had happened and which had resulted in the break in the north training wall.  He then proceeded to explain that the diversion of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>He then had his attorneys call me as a witness.  After I had given my name and address, I was asked if I was a civil engineer and replied "no," and there were smiles on the faces of the opposition; then when I was asked what my business was and replied that "I was a groceryman," there was a general laugh and the Judge rapped for order.  The next question was, did I believe that I could qualify as an expert on Yuba River conditions; I replied that I thought I could because of many years of very close and continuous observations of the changing conditions of that river.  I was then asked if I had listened to the testimony of Mr. Grunsky and did I concur in his statements.  To this I replied that it was no doubt rather presumptuous on my part to disagree or criticize the testimony on the part of such an eminent engineer as Mr. Grunsky but that he had made several mistakes in his testimony, and that they were unquestionably unintentional but were simply due to the fact that he had only visited the Yuba River area several times in a good many years; and that of all the rivers of the world, the Yuba River was one which made many changes in channel location and channel conditions every year, that it had many channels and sometimes the main channel would change its location a half mile or more within a few hours; that the original river was only about 500 feet in width, that debris finally made it about three miles in width, that it flowed now on an elevated plateau, with its bed in many places higher than the farming ground on the opposite side of the levees and that it had been my custom for many years to go down the river in a canvas boat from Daguerre Point to Marysville every spring and make observations of the changed conditions which had been made the previous winter season, etc.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Judge Van Fleet asked some questions about the various channels and their many changes and asked for more explanation and I replied that possibly I could better bring out the point I was endeavoring to explain if he would permit me to tell a "story"; the Judge stated that it was not the custom of having "stories" brought out in testimony in his court but if the story I wanted to tell was apropos to the subject, that I would be permitted to tell the story.  I then said "that once upon a time, an old lady had decided to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I was then asked if I had any more testimony to offer and I replied that I wanted to explain one vital error Mr. Grunsky had made when he had testified that the flood waters on January 16, 1909 and which he testified had been diverted through the new Government "cut" at Daguerre Point was responsible for the damage done to the north training wall in that certain year; that for an actual fact, the "cut" in Daguerre Point was not opened until September of the following year (1910); that this flood of 1909 had been in its usual old main channel on the south side of Daguerre Point during that certain freshet; that these flood waters had been directed against the new north and south dredge wall which had been constructed by the Marysville Dredging Company and that that wall had deflected the river current against the north training wall and that the construction of this protecting cobble wall by the Marysville Dredging Company had been the cause of the damage.  The Federal Attorney then said to the opposing counsel, "Take the witness," but they asked no questions; the case was closed.  On my way out, Colonel Rand said to me, "Well, the groceryman won the suit for us."  Mr. Grunsky came up to me--I had been well acquainted with him for many years--and said, "Well Mr. Ellis, I guess your are right, I haven't been visiting the Old Yuba River often enough in the past to know just what has been going on up there."</P>
136.sgm:<P>No decision was ever rendered in the case, however, as shortly after, the Yuba Consolidated Gold Fields bought out the Marysville Dredging Company's interests and arranged for an extension of the south training wall and the suit, at the request of the Federal Government in 1923, was dismissed.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>The Great Floods of the Winter of 1861-62</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE earliest Indian tradition of a great flood in the Sacramento Valley was in 1805.</P>
136.sgm:<P>While this is only a tradition, the fact remains that the records obtained by the Los Angeles Water District, from records kept by the Padres in the various old Missions in Southern California, showed that there were heavy floods during that year in Southern California, which no doubt also prevailed in Northern California as well.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Another large flood is reported to have occurred in the winter of 1825-26.  This is on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>When the whites arrived, authentic records of a large flood are had, this flood being in the winter of 1849-50, at which time, both the Yuba and Feather Rivers were in heavy flood and the lower and westerly portion of the site of Marysville was inundated.  In the winter of 1852-53, there were four floods when Marysville was then a "going concern" and the old City Directories tell of a Grand Ball which was scheduled to take place in the three story brick Merchants Hotel, situated at about F and First Streets, near the bank of the Yuba River, which then was much lower than the D Street area and "the water surrounded the hotel and was several feet deep on the first floor.  Many young men and their ladies had to obtain boats to reach the hotel from other parts of town and attend the festivities on a New Year's evening; they made merry on the second floor of the hotel."</P>
136.sgm:<P>On March 25, 1859 another flood occurred and again this hotel was in the flooded area, "the water being about eight inches higher than it was five years previous" and again, boats were necessary to reach the hotel.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Then came the "great floods" in the winter of 1861-62, when a still higher flood plane was established, "several large buildings were undermined, among them being this same Merchants Hotel; the floors of the hotel fell through to the basement, but fortunately, most of the inmates had left the hotel this time but some few had remained and four were injured but no one killed."  My father told me that he and my mother were living in this hotel and left the hotel a short time before the floors gave way.  This flood (there were three in all, one in the latter part of December, the other two being in January), is conceded by all State and Federal authorities to have been the greatest discharge of water in the Sacramento ever known, much greater than the floods which have occurred since then, including the "big flood" of 1907.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I have in my possession a book which was printed in 1863 by H. H. Bancroft &amp; Company of San Francisco (now Bancroft-Whitney Co.).  Some years ago this book was shown them and they had no record of ever having published the book; inquiries of the State Library at Sacramento disclosed that they had no copy of this book, in fact I believe that it is the only one in existence.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This book is "an official register and business directory of the Pacific States" but in it are a number of pages of the "Notabilia of the floods of 1861-62," written by Thomas Rowlandson, F.G.S.L. on the "meterology of the United States and territories on the Pacific."  I quote herewith, some of the comments made by him of that flood, which he made an investigation of, shortly after these floods had subsided.  His explorations commenced at San Francisco, northerly through the State, then into Oregon, then through Washington to the Canadian line; he then reversed his travels and made his investigations south of San Francisco to the Mexican line.  From his statements, there were three heavy storms between December 9, 1861 and January 10, 1862, each extending from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>"Mr. Thomas, who with his brother lost two saw mills, in the foothills above Visalia, stated that the water in many of the ravines rose to a perpendicular height of seventy feet, and that hundreds of immense pines, being uprooted, were all ground up fine by the time they reached the plains.  A huge boiler from one of their mills was carried many miles and most of the massive iron works have never been seen since."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Referring to excessive rainfall, Mr. Rowlandson refers to the precipitation in the Sierra Nevadas "from Mariposa to the Tejon Pass" and states, "Unfortunately, no record has ever been kept of the rainfall in this region; in some parts it must have been enormous, probably more than 200 inches perpendicular for the entire wet season of six months."</P>
136.sgm:<P>"I learned that there was a tradition existing among the Indians, that during one year not a drop of rain fell in central California, whilst the converse of this is also reported, namely that heavier rains and floods than have been witnessed during 1861-62, have been known.  The truth of the latter is greatly corroborated by the fact, that marks exist on trees, growing in the San Joaquin Valley, showing that a former flood had been fully six feet higher.  From the bank at Bradford's Ford on the Smith River, the ground has a gradual rise in a northerly direction, and was overflowed a mile or more; from this high water mark, and a quarter of a mile in the same direction, are several drift logs, evidently deposited by a former and still higher flood.  The Indians have it that this former flood occurred about forty years since, possibly contemporaneous with that, the evidences of which are still to be witnessed in the San Joaquin Valley."</P>
136.sgm:<P>"According to the rain-gauge kept by Dr. Ayers, near Stockton and Clay Streets in San Fracisco, for the season of 1861-62, the fall amounted to 40.674 inches; the one kept by Mr. Tennant indicated 49.27 inches and the one observed by Dr. Logan, at Sacramento, showed 35.549 inches for the same period; while at Fort Gaston, Hoopa Valley, Klamath County, according to the published statement of Dr. C. A. Kirkpatrick, the fall from September 1861 to June 18, 1862 amounted to 129.16 inches.  Mr. Richy, from observations made four miles west of the Sierra Nevada, on the Big Tree Road, the total fall of snow from November 11, 1861 to March 23, 1862 was 50 feet 2 inches."</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Dr. Logan remarks, that, on the occassion of the first inundation at Sacramento, on December 7, 1861, it commenced raining at 12 M., and ended at 9 A.M. fo the 9th, amount in inches, 2.57; the flood commenced at 10 A.M. of 9th December, and at 10 P.M. had reached 2 feet 6 inches in my office; by daylight it had all subsided.  At the second inundation, on January 5, 1862, rain commenced at 10 A.M. and ended 1:30 A.M. on the 6th; during that interval there fell 2.69 inches.  On January 8th, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>"There are two circumstances, which will most invariably be found the accompaniments of extremely heavy floods, namely, that of occurring early in the season, previous to the early fallen snow on the mountains having become hardened and compact--in the former state being more easily percolated, and consequently dissolved by warm rains, which occurred; and secondly, the direction of the strong winds being continuous for some time from the southeast to northwest, by which means the tidal waters of the Bay of San Francisco become elevated beyond their normal condition, and to that extent impede the outflow.  At the former flood, the former cause was the chief one; at the second one, each cause had its influence."</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The inundation thus caused, extended over probably more than six million acres, the remedy for which evil can only be sought in mountain impoundage, for which the physical character of the district surrounding the great central valleys affords singularly great facilities, and in positions remarkably favorable for the utilization of the proposed imprisoned waters for mining, manufacturing and irrigation purposes, which, if placed under proper regulations, and combined with a judicious improvement of the lower Sacramento and San Joaquin, their rivers could, at no great expense, be made susceptible of floating large ocean going steamers to Sacramento and Stockton.  The arrangements made for leveeing the swamp lands under the existing law, may be sufficiently effective during small floods, but should the same policy be pursued over any considerable area, it will be found to aggravate the evil and the first large rainfall will demonstrate its insufficiency."</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Among other curious phenomena connected with the last floods, was the fact that of considerable breadths of tule floating in the bay, on the surface of which there was generally found a number of land snakes, some of which floated into the Pacific, others got landed under the wharves, and for a long time after the floods had in a great measure subsided, numerous snakes were to be found about the wharves of San Francisco."</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Most singular of all, however, was the fact that bay fishermen frequently caught fresh-water fish in the bay for from two to three months, the surface portion of entire waters of the Bay of San Francisco consisted of fresh water, to the depth of eighteen to twenty-four inches.  Dr. W.O. Ayers gave to the California Academy eight varieties of fish so found."</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The oysters placed on oyster-beds fattened and died; mussels became fresh and flavorless."</P>
136.sgm:<P>"AT THE GOLDEN GATE, FOR NEARLY A FORTNIGHT, THE <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>In confirmation of the statements made by Mr. Rowlandson in this book, published in 1863, the following may be of interest:</P>
136.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Union</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"Another calamity has overtaken our City--a destructive flood--it came with the rapidity of a hurricane--in a few hours the whole City was under water--the damage has been great--thousands are houseless while hundreds are in second stories in this City of 15,000 inhabitants--many houses, two story high were swept and dashed to fragments on their way to Sutterville--at 10:00 o'clock, the water had receded two inches."</P>
136.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Union</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"The Sacramento River continued to rise during Tuesday night and is now three inches higher than the previous raise.</P>
136.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Union</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"The Sierra on the East and the Coast Range on the west are covered with snow to the foothills.  The Red Bluff steamer, which arrived yesterday, brings word that the snow at that point fell eight inches deep.  In Yolo County, near the foothills, the snow is twelve inches deep.  Four inches of rain fell in San Francisco between 12 o'clock Saturday night and 9 o'clock Monday morning."</P>
136.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"Sacramento is again deluged and worse than ever; the flood was twenty inches higher than ever before--the entire City is under water and boats are used in an attempt to aid people--about 9 o'clock the deluge was at a standstill--rain fell in torrents and the wind blew almost a hurricane;--at 2 o'clock the water was again rising--the water came from the American River, but the height of the Sacramento prevented the water from running off, the latter stream was nearly 24 feet above low water mark."</P>
136.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"For some days there has been no flood coming in through the Heads (Golden Gate) but the ebb continues during the entire twenty-four hours;--the immense amount of water coming down from the interior being of less specific gravity of salt water, has entirely covered the surface of the harbor and continues to flow out to sea in an uninterrupted current.  A rain gauge, accurately kept and registered by Dr. Snell of Sonora, Tuolumne County, shows that from the 11th day of November, 1861 to the fourteenth day of January, 1862, seventy-two inches of water fell at that place."</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">Marysville Express</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"The rain storm continued to pour down on Friday--persons who arrived yesterday from the mountains, inform us that they traveled all the day in a drenching warm rain, experiencing no cold or chilly effects, until they had passed the foothills and got on the plains back of Marysville; snow was two and a half feet deep at La Porte on Thursday and a second storm was coming down with great violence when our informants left, about 2 o'clock in the afternoon.  When about eight miles below La Porte at Yankee's Nest, the storm changed to rain, the weather moderating considerably.  The rain fell at Strawberry Valley, the New York House and all along the road from the former place to this City, during Thursday night and yesterday and it is a safe supposition that the rain storm extended to La Porte."</P>
136.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"Referring to lives lost--This record must embrace white men alone, for Chinese have been lost by the hundreds.  On the Yuba alone, there were fifty; in Placer County, one hundred and fifty; according to the <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
136.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Union</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"The members and attaches of the Legislature left Sacramento yesterday, with all the furniture and appointments appertaining to it, and took passage for San Francisco.  The water continued to rise during Sunday night and until 3 o'clock yesterday morning.  At that hour it was five inches above that of December 9th and within fifteen inches of January 10th."</P>
136.sgm:<P>From the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"The inundation of Stockton is complete--it is standing in the City over the highest grade, varying in depth from twelve to eighteen inches; the flood is attributed to the back water from the river with no show of a decrease.  In Wells Fargo Express Company's office it was nineteen and one half inches deep at noon.  The Webber House, which escaped previous flooding, has from ten to twelve inches on the ground floor.  All the business houses on El Dorado Street, which escaped previous injury from the waters, are now accommodated with about a foot."</P>
136.sgm:<P>(Note by the Author.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>In view of long later developments, Mr. Rowlandson was "born 70 years too soon"; his vision of impounding waters in the mountains has since been adopted by the State's Water Conservation proposed plans, covering the entire State.  When Mr. Rowlandson made his suggestions of the possibility of "large ocean going steamers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I have put in a lifetime of effort to carry out that idea, as regards Marysville; it has taken much time, study and effort but with only two more additional improvements I have in mind for the Marysville levee system, which I hope to have completed before long, then when these additional improvements are completed, I will consider, in my judgement, that Marysville has a sufficiently strong and fool-proof levee system to make it immune to any future floods; a lifelong job will have been completed and I will be willing "to step out of the picture."  Proper care and necessary maintenance will of course be important and in another chapter I will make recommendations.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The following comparisons of rainfall records at Nevada City, between this flood of the winter of 1861-62 and the large flood of the winter of 1906-07 may be of interest.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1861-62, rainfall at Nevada City was a total of 115 inches.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1906-07, rainfall at Nevada City was a total of 67.93 inches.</P>
136.sgm:<P>On December 8, 1861, the rainfall at Nevada City in 24 hours was 6.00 inches.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The above are taken from the Nevada City <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1875</P>
136.sgm:<P>I WAS only nine years old when this flood occurred but I have a very vivid recollection of looking out of the second story of my father's home at 8th and D Streets, then close to the bank of the present lake and watching the rush of waters down that waterway, carrying with it some barns, small houses, several cows and particularly a side of a barn, with a lot of chickens on it, the roosters doing a lot of excited crowing.  I remember also that as soon as the water had subsided from the first floor, leaving about two inches of muddy slime on the floors and carpets, that notwithstanding I had been cautioned not to go downstairs, my curiosity got the better of me and when I reached the lower floor, my feet slipped from under me and I rolled over into this slime and received a spanking for my disregard of instructions.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The levee at that time, took in a larger territory on the north and the west side of town; the two cemeteries at that time were enclosed in the levee and on the west, the levee then was on M Street, in place of K Street, as at present.  The first break occurred where the levee crossed over the head of the slough inlet, just about two blocks north of our present County Hospital, and the old levee and this old break are still in evidence there today.  After this break occurred, the water still rose until it ran over the entire levee crown.  After the town was flooded, the levee on the south was cut at First and Orange Streets, to permit the flood waters to drain out of town.  The east levee of town at that time was on Covillaud Street and did not include the territory where the Cheim airport is now situated.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The flood waters were heavily charged with hydraulic mining debris and for many years afterwards, a yellow line on various buildings showed how high the flood had reached but these marks have gradually been painted out or removed by the elements so that there are at present, only two places in town that I know of, which still show distinctly the yellow line of the flood height.  One is the one story brick residence belonging to Charles P. Miles, situated at 723 B Street, where the water was 5 feet deep; the other, is the Raish one story brick residence, situated at 724 D Street, where the yellow mark is very distinct on the north wall of the house and where the water was 4 feet 9 inches deep.  The flood was six inches deep on the floor of the Court House.  On the low land areas, west of F Street, the water was from ten to twelve feet deep (since then, all that area was filled and raised about five feet).  At this flood the water reached 15 feet 2 inches on the D Street gauge.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mayor Hawley immediately arranged for a Citizen's Relief Committee and an Executive Committee was appointed consisting of W. T. Ellis, J. H. Jewett, N. D. Rideout and A. J. Batchelder, with their headquarters at the W. T. Ellis store.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:Steamer <HI REND="italics">Flora</HI>
136.sgm: came up two days later from Sacramento, with Mayor Green and others, with a large supply of food stuffs;  later, other steamers arrived from San Francisco with large donations of food stuffs, blankets, bedding, etc., which were badly wanted by hundreds of citizens; large cash donations were received from San Francisco banks and business houses.  Only one life was lost in the flood but the property damage was very heavy.  In the <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm:<P>After the flood everyone conceded that before another winter season arrived, something should be done to protect the City against a possible flood the next winter.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The City Council engaged an engineer to make a survey and suggest a plan for a new location, particularly on the west and north side of the City and to take in more territory on the east.  This was done, the new levee on the west being located on K Street in place of on M Street as formerly.</P>
136.sgm:<P>On March 15th the City Council adopted the new location and on March 18th, bids for doing the work were advertised for.  On April 26th, bids were opened on sixteen sections of the proposed work, the bids on different sections varying from 14 1/2c to 35c per cubic yard, and the total of the lowest bids was $68,751.05.  The successful bidders were A. J. Binney, E. Parrish, William Hilderbrand, James Trayner, Jacob Schimpf, William Elliott and McGrath &amp; Maguire.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The large brick culvert, to be under the new levee at E and 15th Streets was let to James B. McDonald.  The successful bidders were notified that they would have to accept scrip in payment until such time as money could be obtained by taxes.  Other work followed and before the end of that year, there was expended $97,860.66 on the main seven miles of City levee and an additional $10,361.25 on the Browns Valley Grade levee.  I was only nine years old at that time but I remember that my father took a great interest in this levee work and almost every day he would drive out with his horse and buggy and watch progress and I almost always accompanied him on these trips.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXIV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1881</P>
136.sgm:<P>AFTER the flood of 1875, there occurred a flood on March 6th, 1879 when the river reached 15 feet, 11 inches, or nine inches higher than the previous flood.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Again, on April 22nd, 1880, there was another flood with a still higher reading of 16 feet, 2 inches on the gauge.  This was followed the following year with the 1881 flood which occurred on February 4th and when the river made a new and much higher mark of 18 feet, 2 inches on the gauge.  A gopher hole in the levee, situated directly behind the old Greely home, in the curve of the levee at 6th and Yuba Streets, nearly resulted in a break in the levee.  From Yuba Square, easterly for almost a mile, the water ran over the top of the levee in a thin sheet and hundreds of citizens worked hard to stop the overflow and succeeded; it was a narrow escape.  This was a "double" flood because three days previous, the river had reached the 17 foot, 7 inch mark, it then fell about 18 inches, and a continuation of the storm, brought the river back to the higher mark of 18 feet, 2 inches.  At that time, there was a graveled road on the top of this levee, from Yuba Square to its intersection with 12th Street; that season, the levee was raised on top of this elevated road to 12th Street and from there easterly, a slab and higher levee were constructed from 12th Street to the east City limits, and beyond.</P>
136.sgm:<P>That year and the next following four years, $149,947.34 was expended on various portions of the City's levee system for improvements.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1904</P>
136.sgm:<P>I HAD been President of the Levee Commission for four years when this flood reached here on February 25th, and made another new high water mark at midnight of 20 feet on the gauge; this was also a "double flood," and when I use the term "double flood," I mean that there were two heavy storms in the mountains, a few days apart, producing two river peaks, also a few days apart; for example, the following will demonstrate two peaks, one on February 16th and the other, a higher peak on February 25th.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GAUGE READINGS, D STREET BRIDGE, IN 1904</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 16th, 18 ft. 6 in.  (first peak).</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 17th, 18 ft. 4 in.</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 18th, 16 ft. 4 in.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>February 19th, 14 ft. 8 in.</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 20th, 13 ft. 10 in.</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 21st, 13 ft. 4 in.</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 22nd, 15 ft. 0 in.</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 23rd, 19 ft. 0 in. (second raise commences).</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 24th, 18 ft. 3 in.</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 25th, 20 ft. 0 in. (second peak, midnight).</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 26th, 19 ft. 0 in.</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 27th, 18 ft. 6 in.</P>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I wanted a foreman, and at that time, there was a man named Obe Lebourveau, who had a lot of experience in that line but who was then working as foreman in the gas plant of the P.G. &amp; E. Co.  I obtained permission of that Company to let him have a "vacation" and work for me, with the promise that he would have his job back when our levee work was completed.  They agreed and Lebourveau took the job, being paid $4 per day plus his board and lodging.  For a timekeeper, I employed S. L. Williams, he being paid $60 per month, plus his board and lodging.  When the job was completed, we had expended the following:</P>
136.sgm:<P>32 new scrapers,<HSEP>$1,382.22</P>
136.sgm:<P>Construction and repairs,<HSEP>916.59</P>
136.sgm:<P>Boarding house account,<HSEP>3,192.93</P>
136.sgm:<P>Horse feed,<HSEP>3,457.40</P>
136.sgm:<P>Labor account,<HSEP>11,764.63</P>
136.sgm:<P>Horse hire account,<HSEP>4,038.38</P>
136.sgm:<P>Plow rent account,<HSEP>77.75</P>
136.sgm:<P>Scraper rent account,<HSEP>37.24</P>
136.sgm:<P>Rent of camp outfit,<HSEP>255.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>Rent of wagons,<HSEP>13.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>Surveying, by W. F. Peck,<HSEP>102.25</P>
136.sgm:<P>Land purchased,<HSEP>2,336.92</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sundries a/c,<HSEP>12.80</P>
136.sgm:<P>Additional work afterwards, on old Citizen's levee, labor, board, etc. etc.<HSEP>1,132.50</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total<HSEP>$28,719.71</P>
136.sgm:<P>The work was performed in three sections, making necessary the moving of the camp site.</P>
136.sgm:<P>First section was about two miles east of east boundary of town.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Second section was at east boundary of town.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Third section was back of the old Buckeye Mill, on Yuba Street.</P>
136.sgm:<P>First section cost,<HSEP>$ .409 per cubic yard.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Second section cost,<HSEP>$ .253 per cubic yard.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Third section cost,<HSEP>$ .343 per cubic yard.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>About seventy-five per cent of the material was obtained on the land side of the levee, the haul, crossing the county road and dumping the material on the top and water side of the levee was about 500 feet, making about 1000 feet for each load, which was moved with Fresno scrapers, with four horses and one driver.  The climb up to and over the road and to the top of the levee being about 17 feet, it was slow and tiresome work on both men and horses and, unfortunately, it happened to be a particularly hot summer.  I put in most of my time, watching the job and to prevent loitering, and "Young Bill" had the laugh on the two contractors who had tried to "stand us up"; they never tried it on us again; it was the first and last time I ever ran actual construction work on a levee.</P>
136.sgm:<P>How different is such work done these days with heavy machinery, a diesel engine caterpillar, drawing a Le Tourneau scraper, hauling 24 cubic yards at a load, with only one man as driver.  Where one man is now employed, we used to employ about twenty.  The development of machinery to reduce costs and save labor resulted in the loss of lots of employment; on the other hand, it is claimed that the perfection of machinery, makes possible a larger output of products and in that way, makes for more employment; it is a debatable subject but in any event, no one can prevent or stand in the way of "progress."</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXVI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907</P>
136.sgm:<P>SOME YEARS previous to the flood of 1904, I had established a gauge on the Yuba River at Alabama Bar, where a man by the name of A. L. Peterson had been living for quite a number of years in a small cabin.  A telephone was placed at his cabin and a private line run up the mountain to Clipper, about two miles distant, to the store operated there by W. J. Schultz.  A gauge was erected at Alabama Bar and when previous floods occurred, we had arranged to pay Peterson to telephone the gauge readings every two hours to Mr. Schultz and the latter would relay this information to my office over the main phone line.  This gave us about twenty-four hours advance notice what we <HI REND="italics">might</HI>
136.sgm: expect here or about twelve hours advance notice, when the water was at a standstill at Alabama Bar, what we were quite <HI REND="italics">sure</HI>
136.sgm:<P>I also had established a gauge in the backyard of the Rideout Bank at Oroville, at the river bank, and my friend L. L. Green, cashier of the Bank always kept me advised by phone of gauge readings.  For several years, I had kept records of all flood readings on these gauges of both large and small floods and so had established a fairly good system of data as to what might be expected here at Marysville, in advance of the flood peak.</P>
136.sgm:<P>We really had two floods, forty-five days apart, in 1907.  The first storm commenced on January 23rd and it rained steadily to February 3rd; the rivers commenced to rise <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The second storm commenced on March 4th and it rained until the 24th with the exception of five days; there were heavy snows in the mountains and snow covered the entire valley; the weather moderated and the river, which had been registering about 13 feet for twelve days, commenced to rise quite rapidly.  I was constantly getting reports from Alabama Bar and Oroville and when Alabama Bar phoned in that the river was on a rampage and showed signs of exceeding all previous high water marks, having then reached previous high water mark and still rapidly rising, I immediately had a conference with my father and J. C. White, the two other Levee Commissioners and recommended that all the low portion of the Yuba River levee, between the foot of B Street on the east, to the foot of J Street, be sacked.  They agreed, gangs of men were immediately placed at work filling sacks of sand and earth, which were taken to the levee top and a double row of sacks, four sacks high in most places, were placed in position.  The river at that time registered 19 feet (March 18th) but at 3:00 A.M. of the following day the Yuba reached the all high water mark of 23 feet 4 inches, and the river was at several places touching the second and third sacks of the row of sacks we had placed on the levee the day before.  But what happened later on our north levee, was the extremely interesting thing.</P>
136.sgm:<P>For the Feather River, I had been depending on Mr. Green at Oroville for information; he was calling me on phone every two hours, letting me know the gauge reading; then he called up and said a large log had come down the river and knocked over the gauge; still later on, he phoned that the water was still rising and it apparently was going to get in the Bank and he was going to open up the vault and get out documents, etc. and added, that he thought the river would soon be at a standstill; I heard no more from him and found out afterwards that a tree had blown down and put the telephone line out of commission.  From the information I had received from him, I figured that the crest would be against our north levee at about 10:00 P.M. and about that time, the flood appeared to be rising very slowly; everything seemed safe, many citizens went to their homes and to bed.  At 11:00 P.M. one of my men at the levee cabin at the County Hospital, phoned that the water had commenced to rise rapidly; believing that he was joking, I "called him down" and hung up the phone; a few minutes later the man in the levee cabin at the cemetery phoned me the same thing; I immediately called up the man in the cabin on the northwest levee to ascertain the truth and he said that he was just about to call me and let me know that the water was rising rapidly; I did not know then but ascertained afterwards, that the river had broken through the District No. 10 levees, the water soon filled the District, rushed southeasterly, overflowing the new back levee, just previously built by the Western Pacific Railroad, dumping the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FLOOD OF MARCH 19TH, 1907 OLD WOODEN BRIDGE AT D STREET, CROSSING YUBA RIVER FLOOD WATERS REACHED OVER FLOOR OF BRIDGE AND SACKS OF SAND WERE PLACED AS SHOWN TO PREVENT FLOTATION</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FLOOD OF JANUARY 16TH, 1909 VIEW LOOKING NORTH FROM MARYSVILLE NORTH LEVEE.  LAST TRAIN FROM OROVILLE, WITH WATER ABOUT ONE FOOT DEEP OVER RAILS WATER AFTERWARDS GOT NINE FEET HIGHER</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Immediately upon receiving the news about the water on our north levee, and being satisfied that a great emergency existed, I turned to Mayor G. W. Hall, who had been staying by my side and said, "Bill, we have got to work fast and perhaps do some high handed things," to which he replied, "Go the limit and I'll back you."  Besides the men we had patrolling the levees, I had in reserve in my office, about thirty men for an emergency and there were also several citizens and business men.  These latter, I instructed to wake up citizens whom they thought would go out and work on the levee; I sent other men to hustle out workmen who would like a job and to come to my office at once; other men I sent to the livery stables and told them to have livery rigs sent to my office; I got in touch with the Sheriff and when he told me he had about fifteen petty offenders in the County Jail, I told him I would send rigs to the jail and take these men to the north levee, which he agreed to do.  My father always kept on hand, for just such an emergency, several thousand new grain bags; these I had loaded on wagons and sent to the levee.  In about three hours, there were several hundred men on that levee, a great many of them being business men, clerks, etc. and they certainly did wonderful work.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I remained in my office, directing operations and receiving reports; at 5:00 A.M. my man in the cabin on the Yuba River levee, about two miles east of town, reported that the river had fallen two inches; at 5:30 A.M. a phone call from the cabin at the Catholic cemetery reported the water on the north levee at a standstill.  I had a team of horses and buckboard waiting at my office with a driver; I then had him drive me to the south end of the north levee at the Browns Valley grade and directed him to drive over to the County Hospital and wait there for me; I then started to walk the entire north levee, a distance of about three miles, over which the water had been running for that entire distance.  As I walked along, to encourage the workers, I kept calling out, "Stay with her boys, the Yuba River had dropped two feet upstream from town"; well, I was lying to the extent of about 22 inches, but it had the desired effect; many would give a whoop and a cheer and work all the harder.  When I reached the north end of E Street, from there on to the Hospital and beyond, the levee was about two to six inches below the flood plane.  There I met our foreman, Mike Long, who had all night been walking the levee, showing the men how to sack earth, place boards on end, back same with bags, and see that they did the work properly.  Mike and myself had been "on the job" for three days and two nights; Mike said, "Mr. Ellis I feel that we have the old river licked," to which I replied, "I think we have Mike, and if the people will just let me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Many people claimed afterwards that the breaks on the Sutter County side had saved Marysville, but such was not the case; I always made it my business to get full information of such things and my records show as follows;--</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 19th--River standstill on our north levee<HSEP>5:00 A.M.</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 19th--Shanghai Bend Break, Sutter County,<HSEP>2:00 A.M.</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 19th--Starr Bend Break, Sutter County,<HSEP>7:00 A.M.</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 19th--Berg Ranch Break, Sutter County,<HSEP>11:00 A.M.</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 19th--McGuire Bend Break, Sutter County,<HSEP>10:00 A.M.</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 19th--Hock Farm Break, Sutter County,<HSEP>10:00 A.M.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This information I obtained afterwards, talking with various men who had worked on the levees at those places.  With the exception of the break at Shanghai Bend, which did not release much water for several hours, all of these breaks occurred after 5:00 A.M. when this flood had reached its crest on our north levee.</P>
136.sgm:<P>SOME INCIDENTS OF THE FLOOD</P>
136.sgm:<P>The fifteen odd prisoners, whom the Sheriff took out to the levee, did good work and when danger was over, they "forgot" to return to jail, no doubt presuming they had earned a release, which they had.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Three men, whom I sent to Kimball's Stable on C Street to obtain three large "carryalls" and other livery rigs, phoned me that Kimball would not let them have the rigs; that he said he was hitching up everything and was going to take all of them to Browns Valley.  I asked the man who phoned me, how many men Kimball had there; he replied only one man besides Kimball, but that Kimball said he was going to get more drivers; I told him to tell Kimball that he and the other two men would punch both Kimball and his hostler on the jaw if he refused to let them take the rigs; it had the desired effect, we got the rigs.  Several days later, Kimball called and said he had no complaint to make for what I had done, but was mighty mad at the time.</P>
136.sgm:<P>One of the best workers on the levee that night, was a slightly built young Englishman, named Farrant, who worked in the Northern California Bank of Savings.  To look at him, one would think he would have been unable to do any hard work whatever, but he worked steadily all night, filling and handling heavy bags of earth as if he was used to that sort of work.  This is in no way in disparagement to many other citizens who did work, which they were unaccustomed to and all of whom took no pay for their services, after the flood was over.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Both the newly constructed Western Pacific and Sacramento Northern Railroad Companies suffered severe damage to their newly constructed earth embankments; Mr. Emery Oliver, Division Engineer of the Western Pacific said, "Well both <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>A certain high county official on horseback, was investigating conditions about the levee when the water was at its highest; at one place on the north levee, where the railroad tracks crossed the levee near the Catholic cemetery, some sacking had been done, and he noticed some water trickling between the sacks, which is not unusual and not dangerous; he considered otherwise and immediately started to town on a "Paul Revere" ride, riding down the main streets and shouting that the levee had broken.  It created great excitement and consternation and for a short time, my office was swamped with telephone calls and we were kept busy denying the rumor and quieting citizens, many of whom, living in two story houses immediately commenced to move some of their effects to the second story, while others, in one story houses were frantic.  The local newspaper the following day, without mention of name, certainly "paid its respects" to this gentleman for his error in judgment.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The next day, when danger was over, the hired help on the levee had to be paid; I went to the Decker-Jewett Bank and borrowed $5,000 in five dollar gold pieces and assorted silver and took it to my office at D and First Streets; with the assistance of the police, a line was formed on the sidewalk reaching one block to the Western Hotel.  The emergency had arisen so suddenly, no timekeeper was provided, we had no idea what men had worked on the levee and realized that attempts to impose upon us would be made.  One of our hard workers that night on the levee was Scott Hendricks, son-in-law of W. P. Hammon; Scott was a personal friend and I told him I had another and easier job for him; I gave him a time book and told him, that as each man came in for his pay, to ask him his name, look in the time book, pretend to find his name, ask him how many hours he had worked, agree on the amount due and we would pay and take his receipt.  I had a man go along the line and notify those in line, that we had their names and time and for them to figure up in advance how much was due them, to save time when they reached my office.  This caused quite a number to drop out of line; they were of a type who did not have enough "savvy" to realize that we had had no way to have obtained either their names or their time.  It took quite a long time to pay them off, several we recognized as "repeaters" who had been paid off and then got back in the line again, so I had two other citizens to watch their faces and try to remember them as they filed by.</P>
136.sgm:<P>One large merchant, who did not go on the levee but hired men to help him raise his goods to his top shelving, etc. (which would have done no good), was watching the pay-off proceedings; he said to me, "Don't you think that is a pretty loose way of doing business?"  I told him, that it was, but that I would rather have some few men paid for services which perhaps they had not rendered, than to take a chance of having some man or men "hold a grudge against the Marysville Levee, because they <HI REND="italics">had</HI>
136.sgm: worked and <HI REND="italics">had not</HI>
136.sgm: been paid."  I then said also, "Now Mr. --, let me tell you something and it is this; the night the water was running over the levee and it looked as if the City <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>When we had finished paying off the labor and later on for the supplies, we had largely without permission "helped ourselves to," the cost was as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Laboring men,<HSEP>$2,073.25</P>
136.sgm:<P>Northern Electric Co.--Greek Labor<HSEP>296.10</P>
136.sgm:<P>Hong Wo Co.--Chinese Labor<HSEP>72.50</P>
136.sgm:<P>Livery hire,<HSEP>250.50</P>
136.sgm:<P>Shovels, lanterns, etc.<HSEP>649.23</P>
136.sgm:<P>Lunches, coffee, etc.<HSEP>292.75</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sacks,<HSEP>418.96</P>
136.sgm:<P>Telephone messages,<HSEP>31.60</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total<HSEP>4,084.89</P>
136.sgm:<P>A number of merchants, who furnished supplies, were so thankful they declined to render bills; if we had paid for those items, also the many citizens who gave their services for nothing, the total cost might have been double the above amount.  I thought the City had gotten off mighty cheap and the Levee Commissioners were well satisfied; both the Western Pacific and the Southern Pacific Railroad Companies, had trains of cars, loaded with sacks of sand and placed at my disposal.  They did valuable work; and made no charge for such services.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Had it not been for the advance information I received from our gauge at Alabama Bar, we would not have sacked the Yuba River levee and the City would have been flooded.  As it was, the City had an awful narrow escape on its north levee that night, because of the failure of a telephone line which prevented me getting exact information in advance from Oroville.  Since then, more gauges have been established not only around the City itself, but higher up on the rivers, such as at Colgate and Goodyear Bar on the Yuba River and Los Plumas Power House, Los Plumas intake, as well as at Oroville, on the Feather River.  With increased telephone lines, giving practically uninterrupted service, such as we had in the 1928 flood, when with practically hourly reports, which I received for several days at that time, I knew exactly what was occurring at exactly twenty-five different places on the various rivers and "forewarned is forearmed."</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GETTING READY FOR THE COMING FLOOD OF JANUARY 16TH, 1909 LOADING SACKS OF SAND TO FLAT CARS TO BE USED IN CASE OF ANY EMERGENCY AT CRITICAL PLACES PICTURES TAKEN AT THE PLAZA FOOT OF HIGH STREET, MARYSVILLE</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FLOOD OF MARCH 1907 LOOKING EAST ON MONTGOMERY STREET AT OROVILLE, AFTER THE FLOOD WATERS HAD SUBSIDED NOTE DEBRIS DEPOSITED ON BOTH SIDES OF THE STREET</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXVII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>FLOOD OF 1909</P>
136.sgm:<P>ON JANUARY 1ST, rains began.  It was a wet month, raining every day that month except on the 3rd, 10th, 11th, 28th and 29th; in all, 8.39 inches of rain fell that month of January.  After it commenced on the first of the month, the river rose from 8 feet 9 inches to 17 feet 2 inches on the gauge; in the next two days it fell to 11 feet 5 inches, then it commenced to rise each day for the next four days when on the 15th, the river had established another new high water mark of 24 feet on the D Street gauge, at 7:00 P.M.  The following day it had dropped to 23 feet 3 inches, dropping to 16 feet 7 inches on the 20th but the constant rains brought the river back to 18 feet 8 inches on the 18th, after which it gradually continued to fall until the rains ceased on the 27th, at which time the gauge indicated 13 feet 1 inch.  There was not only a prolonged storm but a very prolonged average high water plane in the river.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The large amount of work performed on the levees in the two previous years had our levees in first class condition to care for the situation without any difficulty.  The only place where the levees were a little low was the Yuba River levee from the foot of B Street, westerly to the foot of G Street, and as the tracks of the Western Pacific were located on top of this stretch of levee and there happened to be within the City limits two long trains of Oroville dredge tailing, I asked Mr. Emery Oliver, Division Engineer of the Western Pacific to have this material on their cars, unloaded on the side of their tracks.  This was immediately done and relieved the anxiety of some people, although it was really unnecessary for our levee we knew was considerably higher than the levees on the south bank of the river and if the river continued to rise, those levees would be sure to fail and give us relief; this is what then happened.  The Western Pacific Railroad Company again made no charges for their services or the material which they placed on the levee during the flood.</P>
136.sgm:<P>To the north, west and south of Marysville, the levees of other districts failed and the flood waters extended for miles in every direction, Marysville being an "oasis" in a "desert of waters."</P>
136.sgm:<P>That year and the year following, we continued our work of completing our plan which had been laid out after the 1907 flood and during 1909 and 1910 we expended $60,425.25.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A few days after the flood had subsided, I wrote to Mr. Emery Oliver, Division Engineer of the Western Pacific Railroad at Oroville, thanking him and his Company for the very valuable assistance his train crews had given us in the recent flood and knowing that they had furnished about ten thousand bags of sand for the levee at various places, requested that he let us know what we owed for this material.  We received the following reply:</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Oroville, California.</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 2, 1909.</P>
136.sgm:<P>LEVEE COMMISSIONERS, CITY OF MARYSVILLE.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Relative to the work performed by this Company in and about Marysville at the time of the flood, I have been instructed by V. G. Bogue to make no charge for this service.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Yours respectfully,</P>
136.sgm:<P>EMERY OLIVER.</P>
136.sgm:<P>For the following nineteen years, there was only maintenance work performed on the levees, the annual expenditure being about $3,000 per annum, until the flood of 1928 occurred, which will be told of in the next chapter.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXVIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>FLOOD OF 1928</P>
136.sgm:<P>The peak of this flood reached here at 5:00 A.M. of March 27th, the gauge reading showing 24 feet, the same as it was in the 1909 flood.  The Yuba River had a full maximum discharge but the Feather River did not have as great a discharge as in 1909 or 1907.  There was absolutely no danger to any of our levee system but some of our citizens were again worried about the only remaining low stretch of our levee which was for about two blocks in length on each side of the north end of the D Street bridge and which had never been raised because of the difficulty of doing so.  The railroad tracks were on the crown of the levee there and to raise the levee and the railroad tracks would have blockaded the street crossing to the bridge over these raised tracks, necessitating a change by raising the north end of the bridge south of the railroad tracks and the street approach on the north side of the tracks.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When the river was high and still rising, I was asked many questions about the levee being so low there but I explained to them all that, if necessity required, we could easily raise this stretch of levee with bags of sand, with the assistance of the railroad company, but that this would not be necessary because if the river reached the 24-foot mark or possibly six inches more, that the levees on the opposite side of the river would be sure to fail as they were lower than our levees, not as strong and improperly cared for.  This is exactly what happened, the levee on the opposite side broke near Alicia Station, in fact, there were several breaks in that area south of Marysville, and the Sutter County levee had a very narrow escape from breaking at Shanghai Bend, below Marysville.  Later on that year, as it was then planned to raise and strengthen the levees on the south bank of the river, I had the situation taken care of at the foot of D Street, by having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THIS CONCRETE DAM, CONSTRUCTED WITH FEDERAL FUNDS, REACHED ACROSS THE YUBA RIVER ABOUT FOUR AND A HALF MILES UP-STREAM FROM DAGUERRE POINT DESTROYED BY THE FLOOD OF 1907</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FLOOD OF MARCH 27TH, 1928 NEW CONCRETE BRIDGE ACROSS YUBA RIVER AT D STREET VIEW LOOKING NORTH TOWARDS MARYSVILLE</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>While the river reached high water mark, and we were prepared for any possible emergency which might arise, this flood gave me personally about the easiest time I had ever had at a flood period.  Outside of staying at my office for two days and nights without sleep, receiving hourly reports from all our cabin watchmen on the levee and from outside points, there wasn't much to do except to answer questions from callers and answer telephone messages, not only from in town but the surrounding country, which was always usual, the public generally knowing that our office was in close touch with the flood situation everywhere.  For example, during this 1928 flood, I had 304 telephone calls in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>While we had no emergency conditions on the Marysville levee, I was able to render assistance to the levees of Districts No. 784 and No. 10.  Just as an example of a gopher's activities and a very narrow escape, on March 25th, I was at home for lunch when I received a phone call from W. M. Connarn, who had a small ranch on the south side of the river, just east of the Southern Pacific Railroad; he informed me that there was a lot of water apparently seeping through the base of the levee and a small area of about an acre had been covered with water in an orchard and wanted to know if I thought it was dangerous; the flood was on its way down the river but the river was at that time seven feet below high water mark, (two days later it reached high water mark).  I asked Connarn if the water was clear or muddy, stating that if the water was clear, there was no danger; he replied that the water was quite muddy and I told him to endeavor to get some men, sacks and shovels and I would come immediately.  I immediately jumped in my automobile, picked up three men on the street, obtained some sacks and shovels and drove to the place.  When I arrived, the gopher hole had enlarged until it was about three feet in diameter and water was rushing through the hole.  A cattle guard on the track was nearby, we tore it up, slid it down the water side of the levee in front of the hole, then let down some sacks of earth in an attempt to check the flow of water; the attempt was a failure.  The levee at this place had a side track on its crown, this track leading to the Dantoni orchard.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I instructed the men to do nothing more until the hole had enlarged sufficiently to let the upper portion of the embankment and railroad tracks collapse and that, as the river still was not very high, there might be sufficient of the levee material drop down to fill the hole above the river level, then to get busy and shovel more material on top from the opposite sides of the depression and that I would hasten to town for more help.  They promised to do as instructed, I drove hastily to town, phoned Robert Watson, the Southern Pacific Company agent, to send men with sacks and shovels to the place <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The following day, a very weak spot developed on this same levee, just a short distance east of the south end of the D Street bridge and Halsey Dunning with a crew of men saved the situation at that point with bags of sand.  I was busy with my own levee by that time.  The following day, a tramp reported to the man at the Binney Junction Tower House (at the Catholic cemetery), that the railroad embankment was about to break at its junction with the southeast corner of Levee District No. 10 levee; the tower man relayed the message by phone to R. F. Watson at the Southern Pacific Company depot; Watson phoned me of their trouble stating that they had an engine and flat car ready and could I send them about fifteen men with sacks and shovels; I told him I would have them there in a half hour, which was done; they were rushed to the danger point and were successful in taking care of the very dangerous situation.  We always keep prepared with plenty of sacks, shovels and men, IT PAYS.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXIX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Presented with a Service Medal</P>
136.sgm:<P>ON APRIL 26, 1929 I attended a luncheon of the Marysville Exchange Club; I had been invited the day previously but declined, as I belong to no clubs and noon-time I prefer a very light meal and a thirty minute "siesta"; my father did this same thing for years and I have found that this short relaxation is beneficial.  However, upon the insistence of a couple of my friends, I attended.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the luncheon, Mr. Richard Belcher was introduced as the speaker and it gradually commenced to dawn on me that I was going to be the "target" for some reason; I soon found out and was presented with a "service medal" by Mr. Belcher on behalf of the Club.  The following day, an article appeared in the local paper as follows;--</P>
136.sgm:<P>"THE ELLIS MEDAL"</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Friday noon witnessed a form of community expression in Marysville, honoring a local citizen, which should go down in local history as one of the finest acts within the levee bounds.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>"On that occasion, under the conception and auspices of the Marysville Exchange club, a man of honored place in our midst acted as spokesman.  His duty was to open up the way for the presentation of a mark of distinction.  How well he handled his assignment is a matter of pride to his fellows.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"In words of simple force, born of knowledge of his subject, and free of embellishments, he set forth in graphic and colorful manner a swift-moving panorama of the City of Marysville from early times to the present day.  This by way of pointing out the service rendered the community by a man whose boyhood experienced the flood of 1875.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"It was a story of devotion to public well being; of a contest with elemental forces and a battle successfully waged.  It typified a nature born to overcome obstacles--it heralded a spirit which never surrendered.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This tribute so admirably voiced had that restraint necessary to fit the nature of the man it extolled.  Unassuming at all times, in the safeguard of the City which gave him birth, it is fitting that the man honored should have the exposition of his work presented in harmony with his character.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The Exchange Club has performed a distinct service to the community.  In making articulate the gratitude of the City of Marysville to its most virile citizen it is honoring itself and restoring to public consciousness a proper appreciation of a forthright, upstanding man."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Many people, to be "singled out" under such circumstances, are embarrassed; I know that I was; I do not remember just what kind of an acknowledgement I made to this very complimentary gesture on the part of the Club members.  I hope it was befitting the occasion; I do know, however, that I was very appreciative and have always prized this token very highly.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>A Contest with Henry Hazelbush</P>
136.sgm:<P>LONG BEFORE the white man ever came to California, at times of extreme floods, a large portion of the Feather River had escaped over its westerly bank for a distance of several miles at Hamilton Bend, about five miles down stream from Oroville.  These escape waters would run in a southwesterly direction, north of the Buttes, then southerly down Butte Slough, thence into both the Sacramento River and into the large Sutter tule basin, until the latter was reclaimed and the Sutter By-pass constructed; and after that, these escape waters drained into the Sutter By-pass, again joining with the Feather River just below Nicolaus, thereby making a "detour" of about sixty miles in length.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the flood of 1928, the usual large quantity of water escaped in this way and very extensive damage was done to a large prune orchard owned by Mr. Henry Hazelbush <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>As Henry was a fine citizen and I had been well acquainted with him for many years, I relented and stated that if he would not have over 2000 feet of length of levee and construct it as he had planned, near the bank of the river on its upstream end, that I would make no objections.  Such permission was then granted, in fact, the State assisted financially.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mr. Hazelbush did not know (and does not know yet) that the reason why I "relented" was because I firmly believed that where he was building his levee, close to the bank of the river on a fine silt foundation and directly at the bend of the river, that when another extreme flood occurred, he would have no protection, as his levee was sure to fail.  Conditions, however, have partly changed there since then.  Quite a stretch of this levee is now largely a rock pile, thrown up by two gold dredgers and we are not entirely satisfied with that changed condition, even though the levees on both banks of the rivers have since been raised, presumably sufficiently to take this additional river water, as one dredge has encroached too close to the main river channel.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Previous to this disagreement with Mr. Hazelbush I had, in the latter part of 1928, employed Mr. E.A. Bailey, former Flood Control Engineer, to make a survey to arrive at an estimate of how much water escaped in the 1928 flood at Hamilton Bend and, on January 14th, 1929, I received his report and it was concluded at that time that there had been about 35,000 second feet of water so escape, which was about twenty-five per cent of the entire flow of the Feather River past Oroville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The gold dredgers have about 800 acres to be dredged there for a distance of about three and a half miles.  When this is completed, it is planned by the Engineers with state and federal funds to have a levee constructed still further down stream to about the Gridley bridge and so close off all the overflow.  Had not the Sutter By-pass been changed to its present eastern location, thereby discharging about five-sixths of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>The "Eccentric" Flood of 1937</P>
136.sgm:<P>THIS WAS a most extraordinary flood and remarkable for the following reasons:</P>
136.sgm:<P>1.  It was the first flood of major proportions that ever occurred so early in the winter, the apex of this flood at Marysville being on December 11th; the only time a major flood had previously occurred early in the month of December was the first of the three floods which occurred in the winter of 1861-62 and this first flood of that winter occurred on December 9, 1861.</P>
136.sgm:<P>2.  This flood in the Sacramento Valley was not even a "maximum" flood as to quantity of discharge from the entire valley as it was about 300,000 second feet at Rio Vista, as compared with the discharge of 600,000 second feet during the 1907 flood; in other words, the quantity of discharge was about one-half as great as the 1907 flood.  Even the Yuba River which, during the 1928 flood, discharged 140,000 second feet of water, this time discharged only 110,000 second feet at the D Street bridge.</P>
136.sgm:<P>3.  Notwithstanding the above fact, the Yuba River at Marysville was twenty inches higher than ever known before; as for the Yuba River at Goodyear Bar, the previous high water mark was 17 feet and this time it just reached the old high water mark of 17 feet at 3:00 P.M. on the 10th inst., then dropped to 13 feet at 10:00 P.M. and the following day, again raised to 17 feet at 9:00 A.M. and at 4:00 P.M. had dropped to 13 feet.  There was a period of about one-half hour when the gauge there read 20 feet, but this occurred when the water, which was blocked at Downieville for a short time by the new State bridge, was released when the bridge gave way.</P>
136.sgm:<P>4.  As for the Feather River, at Los Plumas Power House, the river was 12 feet below high water mark and at Oroville, the river was nine inches below high water mark.</P>
136.sgm:<P>5.  As for the Sacramento River at Red Bluff, the river was 1.3 feet above high water mark while at Colusa, the river was 2.4 feet below high water mark; however, at Long Bridge (crossing the Sutter By-pass), the water was 7 inches above high water mark; at Wadsworth pumping plant, the water was 3.7 feet above the 1927 high water mark; at the junction of the Tisdale and Sutter By-passes, the water was 3.6 feet above the previous record of February 24, 1927; at the Chandler pump, the water was 2.5 feet above the 1927 record; at District No. 1500 drainage pump, the water was 8 inches above the 1927 record and at Nicolaus, was 1.4 feet above the 1928 record high water mark.</P>
136.sgm:<P>6.  At the Fremont Weir, where the mass of the water escapes into the Yolo By-pass, in 1928, the average depth over this weir was about 4.5 feet while this time, the depth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>7.  The American River at Folsom was 2.9 feet below the high water mark of 1928 and the Sacramento River at the City of Sacramento was 20 inches below high water mark.</P>
136.sgm:<P>All the above is a series of "inconsistencies," I might say, "paradoxes."  Why was this so?  Why were there over fifty breaks in the river system up-stream from the mouth of the Feather River and no breaks to the south?  Why were previous high water records exceeded in many places above the mouth of the Feather River and on the contrary, high water records were not reached below the mouth of the Feather River?  Well, I will try and answer these questions, although some engineers will no doubt disagree with my conclusions.</P>
136.sgm:<P>1.  When this storm commenced, there was practically no snow on the mountains, there were only some ten inches recorded at the Nordin Summit, so there was no snow pack to hold or retard the precipitation during the storm.  In the flood of 1907, the great discharge of water was from the 5000 foot elevation down, and when that storm was over, there was a greater depth of snow at the summit than when the storm commenced but such was not the case this time; there was practically no snow on the summit and this "storm" was not a "storm," it was a "cloudburst" for two days and more.  Just for example, the following may be of interest:</P>
136.sgm:<P>The following is the recorded rainfall for two days, December 10th and 11th.  (The following does <HI REND="italics">NOT</HI>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Precipitation</HI>
136.sgm:<P>Soda Springs<HSEP>10.8 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Blue Canyon<HSEP>8.55 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Pike City<HSEP>8.78 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Scales<HSEP>18.85 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Lake Spaulding<HSEP>17.63 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Nevada City<HSEP>8.67 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Clipper Mills<HSEP>18.0 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Buck's Creek<HSEP>12.92 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mineral<HSEP>14.13 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Near Sterling<HSEP>15.58 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Delta<HSEP>8.20 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Brush Creek<HSEP>17.76 inches in two days.</P>
136.sgm:<P>If the above does not show a "two day cloudburst," then I do not know what else to call it.  I have been keeping records for many years and I have never known the Yuba and Feather Rivers to have the "first waters" of mountain discharge "reach" Marysville as fast as this one did; however, the "first" arriving flood waters commenced to reach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>At Goodyear's Bar on the Yuba River, there were two peaks, eighteen hours apart; the first peak there was nineteen and a quarter hours, before peak at Marysville, while the second peak was thirteen and a quarter hours before peak at Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>At Colgate Power House on the Yuba River, there were also two peaks; the first was twenty-eight hours and the second peak was eleven and three-quarter hours before peak at Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>At Los Plumas Power House on the Feather River, there was only one peak and this occurred eighteen and a quarter hours before peak at Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As for flood heights at the above mentioned mountain places, the following is also of interest:</P>
136.sgm:<P>At Goodyear's Bar, the flood height was the same as in the 1928 flood, except for about one-half hour, when the highway bridge at Downieville failed and released the dammed up waters above that bridge, causing an excess raise of three feet for a half hour.</P>
136.sgm:<P>At Colgate Power House, the flood height exceeded all previous readings by two and a half feet.</P>
136.sgm:<P>At Los Plumas, the flood height was eight inches below the 1928 record and twelve feet lower than the flood of 1907.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As for the Sacramento River, the flood crest passed Red Bluff on Saturday night (11th), reached Colusa Monday, Sacramento City Tuesday, the short but high "wave" had "flattened out" and passed on to San Francisco Bay without much incident.  Had there been a four day good high average of sustained flood height in the mountain regions, such as occurred in 1907, it would probably have been a repetition of what occurred in one of the three floods of the winter of 1861-62, in which case, the area, south of the mouth of the Feather River would have had a different "story" to tell.  As it was, there was practically little loss south of Fremont Weir, while above same, there was an estimated loss of $14,000,000.00 because of some 50 breaks and overflow in various unprotected areas.  Being more particularly interested in the Yuba and Feather Rivers, the question arises in my mind: Why was the Feather River, from its mouth and up-stream on the Yuba River for some distance of one-half mile above Marysville and up-stream on the Feather River, for some distance above Yuba City, all above previous high water marks?  There are several answers but there are two main reasons in my opinion; one was the location of the Sutter By-pass, which was constructed on the eastern location in place of the central location, with a consequent higher flood plane of about 4 feet, as explained in a previous chapter.  The other main reason, was the height of the Fremont Weir which, as also explained in a previous chapter, has its crest three and a half feet higher than the bottom of the Sutter By-pass, twenty-four miles upstream.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The Sutter By-pass, where now located, is of course a "fixture" and cannot now be changed but as for the Fremont Weir, the greater portion of it, about its center, could be and, in my opinion, should be, "chiseled down" to the same height as the floor of the Sutter By-pass, which is 30 foot elevation.  Wild Irishman Bend, which was very sharp and long, having the shape of a long letter "V," pointing directly into the Yolo Basin, was a natural inlet into that basin and with the ground level on its banks at about elevation 25, or about five feet lower than the floor of the Sutter By-pass on the opposite side of the river channel; flood waters had no difficulty in discharging into the Yolo Basin.  Such is not now the case, since the construction of the Fremont Weir.  This weir was constructed at elevation 33.5 by the Federal Engineers with the idea of keeping flood waters at what was considered a safe height to reclamation, at the same time keeping as much water as possible in the river itself to induce scour, in the interest of navigation.</P>
136.sgm:<P>However, I believe that this recent flood has demonstrated that there is too much obstruction to the proper flow of flood waters into the Yolo Basin and a large portion of the weir should be cut down to elevation 30 foot, particularly now, that the Shasta Dam, when completed will release sufficient water during the summer months, which will result in good higher stages in the Sacramento River and permit of easy navigation during the summer months to Red Bluff and particularly from Chico Landing, down to the mouth of the Sacramento River.</P>
136.sgm:<P>During this last flood, the waters of the Bear, Yuba and Feather Rivers, backed up-stream in the Sutter Bypass, not only to the foot of the Tisdale Weir on the Sacramento River, but also backed up the main by-pass upstream to as far as Long Bridge, just west of Sutter City; then, later on, when the peak of the Sacramento River arrived and five-sixths of its volume was discharged into the Sutter By-pass, it had to "reverse" the flow of the water in the Sutter By-pass, practically flowing on top of an elevated "water plateau" in the by-pass, on its way to the Fremont Weir, thereby causing an excessive height in the Feather River which was "reflected" back to above Marysville and Yuba City for some distance.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As for some incidents of the flood, it was extremely unfortunate that District No. 10's levee failed, because of claimed faulty construction at one place; that levee was about four and a half feet above the peak of the flood.  It was also unfortunate that District No. 784's levees failed in four different places, as those levees were well above the flood height but some material, which had been used in recently raising and strengthening those levees, turned out to be unsuitable and deflected currents, caused by trees and other obstructions, and some other matters, caused these failures.  The north levee of District No. 784 on the Yuba River, just east of the Southern Pacific had an exceedingly narrow escape as that section of levee had not as yet been raised to standard height and cross-section, the flood reaching at some places to the top of the levee and several "sand boils" occurred, all of which required about 5000 bags of sand to prevent a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>On the Sutter County side, a gopher or squirrel hole caused a very serious situation for a while at the Sultzberger Ranch in District No. 9; at Yuba City the flood reached the top of their levee in some places, necessitating a row of sand bags; at Shanghai Bend, the water was above the top of the levee and rows of sand bags, several sacks high, prevented a break.  The river was still rising at this point, when District No. 784 levees broke on the Yuba County side, otherwise, a large portion of the District No. 1 would have been flooded.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As for Marysville, our lowest levee section was on the Yuba River, just west of the D Street bridge, but the concrete levee wall would have withstood another four and a half foot raise; as for our levees on K Street, they were four to five feet higher than the Sutter County side.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1907, our levee from the Jewish cemetery southerly to the D Street bridge had been raised by the Railroad Company with dredge material brought from Oroville; it had cost us nothing except for a franchise to the Railroad Company; we had considered the material good for the crown raise.  In 1928, however, we had discovered a seepage through this top material at the foot of Willow Street, notwithstanding that the crown of the levee there was about one hundred feet in width.  Since then, we have been obtaining State and Federal funds and have completed an earth "slab" on the levee down to about 6th and K Streets, the levee, with this slab, in many places being raised an additional four feet, to bring all this stretch to a uniform height, when this last flood occurred, and where the work was incomplete, on the north 5th Street subway wall, also for about 2000 feet of the Yuba River levee, westerly from the D Street bridge.  As a result of this work being incomplete, there were seepages at the north subway wall, also at the foot of Willow and E Streets, because of the additional flood height.  This seepage was not through the old original levee, but over its old crown and through the mass of dredge material on top of and on both sides of the old levee core.  It was not dangerous but "did not look nice" and as the citizens became alarmed, we slabbed these places with about 5000 bags of sand; as soon as the river dropped eighteen inches, this seepage entirely stopped.  Our previous contemplated plans for caring for these places by raising the "slabbing" will be performed this coming summer and so prevent similar occurrences and at the same time, increasing the levee height, the latter to an elevation higher than the levee systems on the opposite sides of both the Yuba and Feather Rivers, which it has been the policy of the Marysville Levee Commission to do, so as to always guarantee the safety of the City against any future floods.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A TORNADO</P>
136.sgm:<P>Shortly after this flood, on February 9, 1938, there occurred a seventy mile south <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>A meeting of the State Reclamation Board was called for on May 4, 1938 and the Marysville Levee Commission (and other interests) were requested to present their views in connection with recent flood conditions, so on behalf of our Levee Commission, I wrote the following letter</P>
136.sgm:<P>STATE RECLAMATION BOARD,</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sacramento, California.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN:</P>
136.sgm:<P>In response to the invitation contained in your letter of April 29th, relative to the meeting to be held on May 4th, in the matter of complaints of certain land owners in the vicinity of Meridian, of damages caused by seepage waters of the Sacramento River, might we not state as follows: --</P>
136.sgm:<P>The Marysville Levee Commission has no direct interest of course in these complaints; we assume that they have been in connection with the heights of the new weirs which were constructed on the Sacramento River in the vicinity of Colusa and we realize, that with the unprecedented long sustained high flood plane in the Sacramento River in that area, during the last four months, heavy seepage conditions have naturally resulted which, plus the almost continuous rain precipitation, has resulted in such a high ground water table, particularly where orchards are established, that large areas of those orchards will be destroyed, as well as other products of the soil.  These weirs were designed (as we understand it) to give proper relief to the river at high flood stages and the altitude of the crowns of these weirs (as we also understand it) were fixed, at such elevations, as in the best judgment of the engineers, would result in safe reclamation and at the same time, keep as much water in the rivers as possible, in the interests of navigation, and induce all possible scour.  Another result, it was hoped to be accomplished, would be to enable the unreclaimed areas in the Butte Basin, to have a longer cropping season each year.  If the weirs were lowered, no doubt but what, in extraordinary seasons, such as this one has been, it would materially assist in lowering the water table in the ground and reducing the amount of seepage, however, the lowering of the crowns of these weirs, no doubt would bring objections on the part of the owners of the unreclaimed areas in the Butte Basin and also objections from the land owners, on the north side of the east levee of the Sutter By-pass and lying at or below the forty-five foot contour.  It would appear that you gentlemen of the Reclamation Board have quite a difficult problem to solve.  However, as previously stated, we have no direct interest in this Meridian area problem, but, now that you have given us an invitation to express our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Many years ago and prior to the Reclamation of any portions of the large basin areas in the Sacramento Valley, these basins contained the following approximate areas;--</P>
136.sgm:<P>Colusa Basin<HSEP>93,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Butte Basin<HSEP>60,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sutter Basin<HSEP>116,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>American Basin<HSEP>53,400 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sacramento Basin<HSEP>32,300 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Yolo Basin<HSEP>164,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>A total of 518,700 acres, with a storage capacity of over four million acre feet of flood waters.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The commencement on the part of large financial interests, to reclaim certain portions of some of these basin areas, finally resulted in the adoption of the Flood Control plan, which was conceived by Captain Thomas H. Jackson of the California Debris Commission, with the idea of having an orderly and safe plan for reclamation and to also protect the "rights" and requirements of the rivers themselves at flood periods and the Federal Government's interests in navigation.  Previous to and since this Flood Control Plan has been adopted and now practically carried to completion, there has been reclaimed the following areas of the aforesaid basins, as follows;--</P>
136.sgm:<P>Colusa Basin<HSEP>93,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Butte Basin<HSEP>none</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sutter Basin<HSEP>91,995 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>American Basin<HSEP>53,400 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sacramento Basin<HSEP>32,300 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Yolo Basin<HSEP>94,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>A total of<HSEP>364,695 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Before all these areas were reclaimed, the flood waters used to "hesitate" at these various basins and filled each in turn "with a good big drink" of water, then continued onward in their course and finally discharge into the bays below; these immense basins acted then as large "equalizing reservoirs" and there were no obstructions in the way then of flood waters on their way to the sea.  Now that this reclamation has been accomplished, in place of these flood waters having great widths with comparatively low altitude flood planes and traveling by "slow freight," these flood waters are forced to travel by "fast express" through artificial by-passes to the bays below, with quite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The estimated flood discharge from these four rivers, above the mouth of the Feather River is 450,000 second feet, of which, only some 107,000 second feet can escape down the main Sacramento River itself, all the balance, or 343,000 second feet is forced to escape over the top of the Fremont concrete Weir which is only some 9200 feet long and the crest of that weir is at elevation 33.5 or three and a half feet higher than the bottom of the Sutter By-pass, for some twenty-four miles upstream, as that by-pass follows the thirty foot contour.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Now what happened during last December flood?</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the first place, this was <HI REND="italics">NOT</HI>
136.sgm:<P>Now what caused this extraordinary condition?</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was the result of a very heavy rainfall, of cloudburst character, reaching up to the summit of the mountains, where, at the Donner Summit, there was only some ten inches of snow on the ground; this heavy rainfall, of some sixteen to eighteen inches at places in forty-eight hours, with no snow pack to retard it, caused this discharge of water to reach the floor of the valley in the fastest time on record.  When the combined waters of the Bear, Yuba and Feather Rivers reached the mouth of the Feather River and less than one-third of it could escape down the main Sacramento River, the balance, being unable to escape at once into the Yolo Basin, because of the height of the Fremont Weir, at the foot of the Sacramento River levee, but also upstream on the main Sutter By-pass to Long Bridge, near the south base of the Sutter Buttes, a distance of thirty miles upstream from the Fremont Weir; then some thirty hours afterwards, the Sacramento River commenced to discharge into the Sutter By-pass, and had to reverse the flow in that by-pass for thirty miles.  In other words, it had to commence to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>At the D Street bridge across the Yuba River at Marysville, the much greater discharge of flood waters in the flood of 1907 reached 22 feet 4 inches on the gauge there while last December flood reached 3 feet 4 inches higher, or 25 feet 8 inches, this, notwithstanding the fact, that the bed of the main Yuba River channel at that point had in the meantime, scoured approximately twelve feet since the flood of 1907.  In twenty-four hours, after the Yuba River had reached its peak at this D Street bridge and the river had dropped two feet, the surface of the water in the river was very placid, with very little perceptible current.</P>
136.sgm:<P>WHY did all these new conditions exist as compared with the vastly greater discharge in the 1907 flood?</P>
136.sgm:<P>We may be wrong, but our conclusions are as follows;--</P>
136.sgm:<P>FIRST: The construction of the Sutter By-pass on the "eastern location" is one of the contributing factors.  Locating that by-pass on the "eastern location" in place of the original "Jackson plan" on the "central location" as recommended by the California Debris Commission, made the eastern by-pass about four miles longer, raised the theoretical water plane about four feet higher than it would have been on the "central location" and dumped the entire flow of the Sacramento River into the Feather River (which was unfair to the latter river) in place of having all these Sacramento River flood waters discharged directly into the Yolo Basin.  Of course, the construction of the Sutter By-pass on this "eastern location" is now an accomplished fact; it can not now, unfortunately, be changed.</P>
136.sgm:<P>SECOND: The construction of the Fremont Weir, with its crest, three and a half feet higher than the floor of the Sutter By-pass, was also, in our opinion, an error.  Its length, is certainly short enough, and consequently its crest should not exceed 30 foot altitude elevation so as to be no higher than the floor of the Sutter By-pass at least as much as possible of its height cut down to the thirty foot elevation.  We believe that a reconstruction of this weir, by reducing its crest height is necessary so as to afford the least possible obstruction to the escape of flood waters into the Yolo By-pass, and particularly to shorten the period of subsidence of flood waters in the Feather and Sacramento Rivers, also the Sutter By-pass, the delay of which this winter season will, we believe develop the fact, in the next two months, that twenty-five per-cent of the acreage planted to fruit trees in Yuba, Sutter and Colusa Counties will have been killed by excess water conditions, principally because of seepage, caused by the long sustained high average water planes in those three waterways, after the peak of the floods have passed.  We consider this imperative also for the future safety of all the reclamation districts on both <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Returning to the matter of the Fremont Weir, when this weir was constructed with its crest at elevation 33.5 feet, it was considered that it would still be low enough to afford safety to reclamation districts and at the same time, keep as much of the flow of the river, in the river as safely possible, to induce scour, in the interest of navigation.  However, when the Shasta Dam is completed and some 6000 second feet or more of storage water is released every twenty-four hours in the Sacramento River, it is expected to give sufficient flow in the river during the summer months to give good navigation upstream on the Sacramento to at least Chico Landing and possibly to Red Bluff, so the reasons, which prompted the construction of this weir as it now is, will not apply when the Shasta Dam is completed, so we very respectfully urge that a reconstruction of this weir be given a careful study and hope that it will be finally decided that the major portion of this weir's length should be lowered as we realize that the extreme westerly and easterly ends of this weir are at about ground level, however, it might be advisable to even lower some portions of those ends, even though it may be necessary to do some excavating of the ground surface below such places to permit of fullest possible operation of the weir's capacity to discharge.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Respectfully submitted,</P>
136.sgm:<P>MARYSVILLE LEVEE COMMISSION.</P>
136.sgm:<P>By<HSEP>W. T. ELLIS, General Manager.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Later on, I addressed another letter to the General Manager of the State Reclamation Board, as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>June 11, 1938.</P>
136.sgm:<P>COLONEL A. M. BARTON, General Manager</P>
136.sgm:<P>State Reclamation Board, Sacramento, California.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Dear Colonel Barton:</P>
136.sgm:<P>The experiences which the land owners have had during this last winter on the Sacramento River make it quite apparent that something will have to be done (if possible) to relieve the flood situation on that River not only to relieve the situation at peak flows <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I have a suggestion to make which might possibly be of interest or in any event I am offering it for "whatever it may be worth" and you may possibly see fit to look into it and the suggestion is this; --</P>
136.sgm:<P>The construction of a weir to be of the same type as the Sacramento By-pass Weir at Bryte's Bend, that is, a structure with gates which can be opened and closed.  This structure would be built on the west side of the Sacramento River somewhere between Princeton and Butte City possibly a short distance above Princeton at about Packer Slough.  This structure would be used only in case of extreme emergencies when there is a heavy discharge down the Sacramento River or in case of long continued high water planes in the river, same as last winter.  The opening of these gates in this structure would be entirely in the charge of the Reclamation Board they to be sole judges as to when the gates should be opened.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Now as to the flood waters which would be discharged through this structure they would flow in a southwesterly direction along the natural drainage there (where drainage canals are already in existence) on the west side of Levee District No. 2, thence following the natural drainage on the west side of the Princeton Levee District into say Cheney Slough, thence to its connection with Hopkins Slough, thence into Powell Slough, thence into old Sycamore Slough, following along the west side of the west levee of the "Sacramento River West Side Levee District," discharging into the Knights Landing Ridge Cut, thence into the Yolo Basin.  This would be a distance of approximately 50 miles and, if I am not mistaken, where this structure would be built on the north would be at elevation of about 75 and the discharge end at the Knights Landing Ridge Cut would be at elevation 25; in other words, in the 50 miles of length there would be a fall of about one foot to the mile.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I have not been over this territory on this upper end for a number of years but if my memory serves me right, the greater portion of this area over which this water would be discharged is very poor land and damage to it would be practically nothing, in fact there might be some deposit of silt on the land surface which would be beneficial and off-set any possible damage or occasional inconvenience when the gates should ever be opened.  I have talked with some of the people over there and they are all of course at present "flood minded" and I am under the impression that there is a good possibility that flowage rights could be obtained from the land owners who would be mostly interested in this project at a comparatively little or possibly no expense.  I do not know what such a structure as mentioned above would cost but of course it would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>If a good portion of the river could be discharged in this way at peak periods, it would undoubtedly make the levees downstream from that point much safer and if no material damage or inconvenience is suffered by such overflow being permitted to continue, during periods of long sustained high flow in the river, it would undoubtedly assist greatly in reducing the seepage troubles.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Now this is only a thought which I have in mind and I believe from talks which I have had with some of those people in the interested area they might be very favorable, towards such a plan if it is feasible and as stated above I am offering it to you "for what it is worth" in view of the fact that the Federal Government has made available large sums of money for flood control, apparently monies would be available if such a plan was found feasible.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Very truly yours,</P>
136.sgm:<P>W. T. ELLIS.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Criticisms of My Management</P>
136.sgm:<P>AFTER the flood of March 19th, 1907, and the narrow escape the City had from inundation, it was very apparent that the greater portion of the seven miles of levee system surrounding the town would have to be raised and strengthened and that it was going to entail a heavy expense.  We immediately commenced to make plans, having surveys made and estimates prepared, all of which took time.  Bids were advertised for raising and widening all the north levee first, then other jobs were advertised and let, and I also entered into negotiations with the Western Pacific Railroad Co. for some work on the levee.  The first contract on the north levee was let on April 23d, to Edward Malley of San Francisco, which meant that we had about five months left to complete all the projected work before the rainy season commenced.  Of course, in those days heavy equipment and machinery were not used, levee work being done with horses or mules, scrapers, etc., and there were no local contractors with sufficient equipment to handle large jobs; in fact, no local contractors submitted bids on all the work.  The work, not progressing as fast as was desired, to give some small local contractors an opportunity to obtain some work, some additional portions of the work were let out at agreed prices, without advertising, to save time.  I wanted action and was also determined that the job should be completed before winter set in and to get results, I cut "red tape" and before long, had various jobs going at different places with scores of men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I asked him, and he also admitted, that they had no particular use for this material in the canyon, it was planned to dispose of it there, where it would be convenient to get rid of it.  I then asked him, why not haul it down hill to Marysville and place same on our north levee and, while the haul might be a little longer, at the same time we would expect to pay him for the material, in view of the fact that his company had no franchise on that portion of the levee where we would like to have it, same being easterly of the Jewish cemetery, so that he would have to lay temporary tracks on the levee to enable the work to be performed.  I explained that in the previous year, we had raised that section of levee four feet, with a three to one slope and all we wanted was to have the material dumped on the side of the levee and make its own slope, which would probably be one and a half to one.  Mr. Bogue informed me that he would look into the matter and a few days later, his Division Engineer, Mr. Emery Oliver, came down from Oroville and we went over the levee section.  Mr. Oliver was not impressed with the idea until he discovered that, if they did the work, their tracks could be extended a few hundred feet into the Yuba River bottom lands and they could obtain a large quantity of sand and gravel off a river bar, same to be used for temporary ballasting of their tracks up the canyon.  Mr. Oliver made a favorable recommendation, a conference was had with Mr. Bogue, a price agreed upon at forty cents per cubic yard for material in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>While this work was being performed, I went out almost every day and met some of these work trains, always taking with me a box of cigars to distribute to the train crews, and occasionally "kidded" them about the "skimpy" amount of material they were placing on the levee, which generally resulted in an additional train load of material at these "skimpy" places.  When the job was completed, I estimated that we had obtained about ten per cent more material placed on the levee than we had paid for.  In 1907, when Edward Malley had a contract for raising all the north levee, he also had a section which ran around the County Hospital buildings easterly to the Jewish cemetery.  This job was contracted for $14,000, but we induced Mr. Malley to relinquish the contract and we then had the Western Pacific Railroad Co. do this work for us for $8,000, thereby saving the City $6,000.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When this job was completed, the Railroad Company, for some months after, were hauling sand and gravel from the Yuba River bottom lands for ballast.  We were so pleased with the work which had been done that we decided to endeavor to have similar work performed on the Yuba River levee, westerly to Yuba Square.  Accordingly, we made such a request of Mr. Bogue, who referred the matter to Mr. Oliver, who came to Marysville and looked over the situation and told me he would have to make an adverse report, because there were no similar advantages to be obtained from this proposed work as were obtainable under the first job.</P>
136.sgm:<P>However, on September 1st, I received a letter from Mr. Oliver calling attention to the fact that the railroad franchise required that a steel bridge be constructed soon across 5th Street at the subway and asked if I thought it would be possible to arrange with the Levee Commission and City Council for an extension of time of eight years in which to build this steel bridge, as their plans for a freight and also passenger depot had not yet been decided upon and they would prefer to maintain the temporary wooden trestle until those plans were perfected.  I replied to Mr. Oliver that he could expect to hear from me shortly in reply.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I at once took the matter up with the Mayor and Council, told them of the refusal of the railroad company, a few months previous, to improve our Yuba River levee with dredge tailings to be brought from Oroville, and recommended that the City authorities grant the requested extension of eight years in which to construct the new steel bridge, <HI REND="italics">PROVIDED</HI>
136.sgm:, that the railroad company do the work which had been asked for by the Levee Commission.  The Council authorized me to send this message to the Western Pacific; and, on September 8th, 1908, I received a letter, addressed to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>When all this work was completed by the railroad company and their tracks had all been removed, the Commission employed teams and raised all this stretch of levee about another foot, by placing earth on all the crown of the levee, eight feet in width.  We did this because the crown was very rough, as it consisted only of rough dredge material.  This made all our levee system, easterly from the Jewish cemetery to the Yuba River levee, then westerly to Yuba Square, a full seven feet above high water and it was a fine job, done at a minimum of expense and there was not another levee in the State as well constructed.  As a result, the other portion of the levee, westerly from the Jewish cemetery, around the Hospital, thence down K Street to the 5th Street subway suffered in comparison.  This latter stretch had been raised by the Western Pacific, under the terms of their franchise, three feet above high water mark; they had complied with the terms of their contract, which also provided that, in case still higher water marks were made by the river, they would be compelled again to raise the levee, always keeping it at three feet above high water mark.  We had made this agreement with them <HI REND="italics">BEFORE</HI>
136.sgm: the 1907 flood; had we known what the river could discharge, like it did in 1907, we would have insisted upon <HI REND="italics">MORE</HI>
136.sgm: than three feet.  Having, however, experienced this 1907 flood, having since then raised all other portions of the levee where there was no railroad franchise, seven feet above high water mark, we were dissatisfied with the three feet above high water mark, which the railroad company had raised the levee in conformity with their contract.  If we wanted a further raise, we would have to pay for it.  We wanted a further raise and we announced that we were going to pay for it.  The work which we had been doing in the past year had caused "whisperings" and "quiet criticisms" but our announcement, that we proposed to raise this levee and pay the railroad for doing it, caused the "lid to be blown off" with loud criticism from several parties, particularly from a small newspaper, published in town at that time, called "The People's Cause," owned and edited by the then Mayor of Marysville.  This paper printed a long article, severely criticizing the Commission <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>My answer to that latter criticism was, that no one but the railroad company could have performed the kind of work it did for us, and that the price had been exceedingly reasonable, in fact, at cost.  As for the former criticism, our answer was, suppose another and higher flood occurred (which it did the following year), would not the citizens feel much more secure and retain their confidence if the levee were higher.  Further, that the proposed work was only going to cost $3,755.30 for the job and I for one, did not propose to let the "measly" sum of $3,755.30 stand in our way of having that section of levee as high as other portions of the levee; that the judgment of the Levee Commission was supreme in such a matter and that the work would go on, which it did.  At about that same time, a second quiet attempt was made to have the Grand Jury bring in indictments against the Levee Commissioners for violating the laws.  This was commented on in an article in the <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">AND THEN</HI>
136.sgm:, a few months later came the still higher flood of January 16th, 1909, when the gauge touched the 24 foot mark.  Three days later, on January 19th, the following article appeared in the Marysville <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"Through the energy and foresight of W. T. Ellis, Jr., what was supposed to be an enormous addition to the height and thickness of our levee system and was with such hustle, that some citizens have said it was not done according to the prescribed forms of law, Mr. Ellis has been severely criticized for the manner in which he had done some of the contracting for the work of raising and strengthening our levees.  It would seem that after the experience of the last few days, that Mr. Ellis should receive a vote of thanks and confidence from the people of Marysville for the prompt and efficient manner in which he has protected the City and let the legal technicalities of the irregularity of his procedure (if any irregularities exist) take the usual course of being `laid on the table'."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Later on, I was presented with a solid silver service and on the large silver tray was inscribed the following:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Presented to W. T. Ellis, Jr.,</P>
136.sgm:<P>by</P>
136.sgm:<P>Friends who appreciate his untiring energy and zeal as  President of the Board of Levee Commissioners</P>
136.sgm:<P>of the City of Marysville 1900 to 1912</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Artificial Channel Alterations Near Marysville</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE original channel of the Yuba River, from a projected south line of H Street, ran westerly to the Feather River, a distance of about 2800 feet and the junction of the two rivers being practically at an obtuse angle, the result was that as the Yuba River was the smaller and shorter river, the apex of floods on the Yuba River reached here before the Feather River.  The result was that the strong current discharged directly against the bank on the Yuba City side, gradually wearing away and undermining the bank, close to the levee and the heavily discolored water from the Yuba would be observed a quarter of a mile upstream on the Feather from the junction of the two rivers.  Finally, an effort was made to obtain Federal Funds (as the Feather was an officially navigable stream) and the effort was successful for a "cut-off."  Yuba and Sutter Counties joined in furnishing funds for the necessary rights of way and the present channel was constructed on the east side of what is now the Marysville Sewer Farm.  The work was performed with mules and scrapers under contract, the headquarters for management being in my office at D and First Streets.  It took several months to complete the job, the work being finished on November 11th, 1893, when the upstream end of the cut-off was opened, the river immediately fell from a reading of 6 feet 3 inches on the D Street gauge to 4 feet 10 inches the following day; however, the main object to be secured was to divert the main channel to the south and protect the Sutter County side; the plan worked successfully as in the next few years, the old channel was all filled up with debris and this is where the "jungle camps and dumps" now are, immediately across the levee at the foot of Third Street.</P>
136.sgm:<P>While this "cut-off" had solved the problem of the threatened danger to the levees on the Feather River side at Yuba City, it did not solve the problem of the "backing up" of the river waters at flood times, caused by the two sharp bends, known as Shanghai and Eliza Bends, where the channel was narrow and made a regular letter "S" and all the low lands were covered with a dense mass of trees and underbrush.  Therefore, in 1906 I suggested to District No. 1 of Sutter County, that they join with the Marysville Levee Commission to get another artificial cut-off constructed just south of Shanghai Bend and negotiations were entered into with the State Engineering Department to perform the work of excavating, if we furnished the right of way and did the necessary clearing, which was agreed upon.  We then purchased all the necessary low land there consisting of about 275 acres for which we paid $3,000.00 to Mrs. Abbott and Ferd Hauss and the following year, the right of way for the proposed cut-off was cleared; but before any arrangements had been made for the work of excavating, the disastrous flood of 1907 arrived and I decided that some better and more effective plan should be adopted.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I then investigated to ascertain whether there was a possibility of "side-tracking" both Shanghai and Eliza Bends by a cut-off, from the south side of the D Street bridge straight south to Eliza Bend, a distance of about two miles.  My trip of investigation was quite difficult as the bottom lands there were a tangled mass of trees and underbrush, but my trip disclosed that there was not only a good fall, but that the 1907 flood waters had torn through with great force and showed a very marked inclination to escape that way.  I then put men to work, clearing out a space about 15 feet in width, which took a few weeks to perform and when completed, had the men commence to burn the piled up brush and trees.  No one knew I had been having this work performed but when burning commenced, the owner of the land one day observed a lot of smoke, made an investigation and having ascertained what had been going on, called on me and threatened me with arrest for having trespassed upon his property without permission and having burned up, what he claimed was "several hundred dollars worth of valuable wood."  He was "mad as a hatter" and I had dreams of going to jail but knowing his fondness for imbibing in the cup that cheers, I suggested that we go up town and have a drink and talk it over; he agreed and when he ordered his whisky straight, I asked him if he had ever tasted champagne; he said he had not and I suggested a bottle; well we had several bottles and I saw that he got more than his share and he enjoyed it hugely; well I obtained his forgiveness and his written permission to finish the burning and also to have a survey made down the clearing.  This survey when finished showed that in a distance of two and a half miles from the Southern Pacific Railroad bridge to Eliza Bend there was a fall of about seventeen feet.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I then took this survey to San Francisco and called on William Hood, Chief Engineer of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company, which had its offices at that time in the Flood Building on Powell Street.  I had met Mr. Hood once before and knew that he was very sharp spoken and very gruff in his ways so was forewarned as to what kind of a reception I might have.  When I called, I was told he was busy and would see me "before long," which resulted in my "cooling my heels" in an ante-room for about an hour.  I finally was admitted to his office and introduced myself as President of the Marysville Levee Commission and reminded him of the flood we had recently experienced, that his Company's bridge across the Yuba River had had about five feet of steel super-structure submerged; that their rails, where they crossed over our levee, were about four feet below the levee surface; that we had been compelled to sack the levee at that point during the last flood, that it had been done hastily and had almost failed and that for the protection of the City's levee and of his Company's bridge, a new channel should be constructed to connect with Eliza Bend, so as to relieve the "choke" there and expedite the flood flow and lower the flood plane against our levees and his bridge.  I then showed him our surveys which I believed demonstrated that the plan was practical and could be expected to have the desired results; when I had finished my explanation he asked what the project would cost and I told him, about $50,000 to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Well, he was "tough" as I had expected but I decided to be "tough" also so I replied, "Mr. Hood, I will go at once but before I go, permit me to tell you that I did not come here with any intention of asking you to put up the money for this project, I hoped to get the money elsewhere and if I fail to get it and not have this plan put through, I am quite sure that your franchise does not permit your to maintain your rails where they cross over the crown of our levee, in such a position that the safety of the City is endangered, so if I fail to get this plan carried out, I feel quite sure that the Levee Commission have the right and power to order you to raise your tracks to the crown of our levee and that would mean the raising of your bridge and your embankment on A Street and that might cost your Company about $250,000."</P>
136.sgm:<P>This statement very evidently had the desired effect, he saw the point as quickly as some California Legislators see the viewpoint of a lobbyist representing a utility corporation; he immediately asked, in a much better tone of voice, "Where do you expect to get the $50,000?" to which I replied, "From the State Legislature"; to this he retorted, "Well the Legislature is now in session, why not go there; why come to me?"  "Well, Mr. Hood, "I replied, "I thought we might have a mutual interest in this matter, so came to you first with the idea you would be interested and be of some assistance in getting an appropriation of $50,000 from the Legislature."  Mr. Hood thought for a minute or so and then said, "Well possibly we could be of some help; now I tell you what to do, you go to Sacramento tomorrow and call on Mr. Jerry Burke at this address (which he gave me) and introduce yourself and tell him what you are after"; I suggested that he give me a letter of introduction to Mr. Burke, but he said "That will not be necessary, just call on Mr. Burke and introduce yourself, that will be all that is necessary."  I thanked him and took my departure.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Now in those days, the Southern Pacific Company, it was often said, "owned the State of California and its legislature"; in self protection, I guess that they just had to mix in State politics or be "held up" with "cinch bills."  It was a well known fact that they interested themselves in getting the "right" candidates for Governor nominated, they also "financially assisted" candidates for membership in the Legislature, often giving "financial assistance" to opposing candidates for offices of Assemblymen or Senators, so no matter which one was elected, the successful one would be under obligations to the Company.  The Company also maintained a "lobby" at Sacramento (to keep the boys in line) and the directing head of this lobby was Jerry Burke.  The railroad company did not care what the Legislature did, provided it did not take any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Well I was as happy as a mosquito in a nudist colony and returned home and for the next few weeks, I kept tab on all appropriation bills which were introduced and when the Legislature shortly adjourned and quite apparently no appropriation for my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Succeeding smaller freshets have further cleared out this channel way and it has proved a great success in permitting the Yuba River to escape by this "back door" during flood periods and when the apex of the Feather River flood, backs up the Yuba River to the D Street Bridge.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The above is an example of how "business" was conducted in the Legislature those days; later on, this was all changed when Hiram W. Johnson was elected Governor with his slogan of "kick the Southern Pacific Railroad out of politics" and after he was elected, the State Railroad Commission was formed to represent the interests of both the railroad and the public.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Previous to the flood of 1907, the overflow area between Marysville and Yuba City was very largely grown up with a large number of trees and underbrush which greatly retarded the current flow; in place of the present subway on 5th Street, there was an earth grade or embankment for street purposes which extended to the old wooden covered bridge crossing the main Feather River channel reaching Yuba City, this grade used to overflow at flood periods, the gravel surface often being washed off or damaged.  The present Southern Pacific trestle, to the north, also had at that time a considerable length of earth embankment, midway of their trestle bridge.  The old wooden bridge was being replaced at the time the 1907 flood occurred and there was a mass of "false <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I then approached the Southern Pacific Company to remove four hundred feet of earth embankment in the center of the overflow area and replace same with trestle, but they declined to do so. I then drew up a petition, addressed to the Company, signed by a very large number of citizens, making this request and presented this to the railroad officials on September 8th, 1908, but this petition was also denied.  I must have had a "hunch" that there might possibly be another big flood the following year (which there was), for I determined to place that earth embankment in such a condition, that if another flood did occur the following winter, that the flood itself would remove the embankment.  We had cleared all the trees and underbrush, just upstream from this embankment and which had in the past given it some protection; I followed this up, by having our levee men cut down the edge of the embankment, where it joined the old excavation which had been made when material was excavated for the embankment, making a perpendicular and "raw edge" to the face of this borrow pit, for the full distance of 400 feet, in the hope, that a flood water would have an opportunity to undermine and destroy the embankment.  The following winter, came the flood of 1909, and the plan worked perfectly, the entire embankment was washed out and was replaced with a wooden trestle bridge by the railroad company.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Ever since these two floods, the Marysville Levee Commission, has each fall of the year, had men employed to cut down the summer season growth of small brush, vines, etc., the annual expense being about $300.00 each year and it is an important practice which should always be done annually in the future.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXIV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Monies Raised by Taxation for Marysville Levee System</P>
136.sgm:<P>COST CITY LEVEE PROPER FROM 1861 TO 1882</P>
136.sgm:<P>1861<HSEP>$  84.00<HSEP>1875<HSEP>97,860.66</P>
136.sgm:<P>1864<HSEP>500.00<HSEP>1876<HSEP>8,981.83</P>
136.sgm:<P>1865<HSEP>1,563.75<HSEP>1877<HSEP>7,725.06</P>
136.sgm:<P>1868<HSEP>18,274.32<HSEP>1878<HSEP>6,874.26</P>
136.sgm:<P>1869<HSEP>8,823.40<HSEP>1879<HSEP>43,479.20</P>
136.sgm:<P>1870<HSEP>2,150.74<HSEP>1880<HSEP>10,799.07</P>
136.sgm:<P>1871<HSEP>6.00<HSEP>1881<HSEP>35,952.24</P>
136.sgm:<P>1872<HSEP>2,300.92<HSEP>1882<HSEP>43,925.47</P>
136.sgm:<P>1873<HSEP>4,347.20<HSEP>Right of way<HSEP>3,000.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>1874<HSEP>2,788.43<HSEP><HSEP>$  299,416.55</P>
136.sgm:<P>COST BROWNS VALLEY GRADE FROM 1868 TO 1881</P>
136.sgm:<P>1868 right of way<HSEP>$  5,649.00<HSEP>1877<HSEP>1,000.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>1868-69<HSEP>18,449.66<HSEP>1878<HSEP>1,223.87</P>
136.sgm:<P>1870<HSEP>1,353.25<HSEP>1879<HSEP>3,282.10</P>
136.sgm:<P>1872<HSEP>450.00<HSEP>State Drainage Commission<HSEP>26,000.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>1874<HSEP>272.00<HSEP>1881<HSEP>1,801.85</P>
136.sgm:<P>1875<HSEP>10,361.25<HSEP><HSEP>$  69,842.98</P>
136.sgm:<P>COST CITIZEN'S LEVEE FROM 1868 TO 1881</P>
136.sgm:<P>Private Sub<HSEP>$  10,000.00<HSEP>1875<HSEP>280.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>1868-69<HSEP>1,600.00<HSEP>1881<HSEP>13,000.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>1869-70<HSEP>2,400.00<HSEP><HSEP>$  27,280.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>RECAPITULATION</P>
136.sgm:<P>City Levee<HSEP>$  299,416.55<HSEP>1885<HSEP>19,825.26</P>
136.sgm:<P>Browns Valley Grade<HSEP>69,842.98<HSEP>1886<HSEP>8,367.79</P>
136.sgm:<P>Citizen's Levee<HSEP>27,280.00<HSEP>1887<HSEP>10,847.54</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total to 1881<HSEP>$  396,539.53<HSEP>1888<HSEP>10,471.50</P>
136.sgm:<P>1881<HSEP>35,952.24<HSEP>1889<HSEP>5,767.95</P>
136.sgm:<P>1882<HSEP>38,292.37<HSEP>1890<HSEP>16,215.54</P>
136.sgm:<P>1883<HSEP>22,845.67<HSEP>1891<HSEP>12,912.23</P>
136.sgm:<P>1884<HSEP>33,031.80<HSEP>1892<HSEP>6,329.56</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>1893<HSEP>12,417.30<HSEP>1915<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>1894<HSEP>5,339.07<HSEP>1916<HSEP>3,625.03</P>
136.sgm:<P>1895<HSEP>5,088.45<HSEP>1917<HSEP>1,851.19</P>
136.sgm:<P>1896<HSEP>8,962.99<HSEP>1918<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>1897<HSEP>9,527.40<HSEP>1919<HSEP>2,070.79</P>
136.sgm:<P>1898<HSEP>6,873.98<HSEP>1920<HSEP>1,659.90</P>
136.sgm:<P>1899<HSEP>12,794.07<HSEP>1921<HSEP>3,450.76</P>
136.sgm:<P>1900<HSEP>9,478.74<HSEP>1922<HSEP>2,548.77</P>
136.sgm:<P>1901<HSEP>9,175.39<HSEP>1923<HSEP>2,679.84</P>
136.sgm:<P>1902<HSEP>4,773.99<HSEP>1924<HSEP>1,803.96</P>
136.sgm:<P>1903<HSEP>4,192.93<HSEP>1925<HSEP>2,587.94</P>
136.sgm:<P>1904<HSEP>21,170.72<HSEP>1926<HSEP>2,707.29</P>
136.sgm:<P>1904 (County Tax)<HSEP>5,000.00<HSEP>1927<HSEP>2,745.70</P>
136.sgm:<P>1905<HSEP>12,395.29<HSEP>1928<HSEP>10,666.34</P>
136.sgm:<P>1906<HSEP>6,195.78<HSEP>1929<HSEP>14,497.16</P>
136.sgm:<P>1907<HSEP>79,248.43<HSEP>1930<HSEP>4,385.21</P>
136.sgm:<P>1908 (County Tax)<HSEP>5,000.00<HSEP>1931<HSEP>4,226.21</P>
136.sgm:<P>1908<HSEP>13,798.93<HSEP>1932<HSEP>4,049.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>1909<HSEP>37,572.65<HSEP>1933<HSEP>4,071.17</P>
136.sgm:<P>1910<HSEP>22,852.60<HSEP>1934<HSEP>7,260.54</P>
136.sgm:<P>1912<HSEP>1,793.27<HSEP>1935<HSEP>7,260.54</P>
136.sgm:<P>1912<HSEP>3,644.40<HSEP>1936<HSEP>6,225.71</P>
136.sgm:<P>1913<HSEP>3,543.39<HSEP>1937<HSEP>4,778.77</P>
136.sgm:<P>1914<HSEP>3,563.50<HSEP>1938<HSEP>20,188.04</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total<HSEP>$1,037,132.14</P>
136.sgm:<P>The Marysville levee system consists of thirteen miles of levee, seven miles of which surrounds the City proper and encircles an area of 1418 acres of land; the remaining six miles of levee extends easterly, on the north side of the Yuba River and ends at the Kupser Ranch, and was constructed to prevent the Yuba River overflowing at flood periods and joining with the Feather River on the north side of the City, which it used to do in early days.  At one time, in 1876, an attempt was made to shut off this overflow by the construction of a short levee, extending from the present Cordua District's school house in the Hallwood District on the Tahoe Ukiah Highway to the present Old Seven Mile House but as the river bed continued to raise with accumulating hydraulic mining debris, it proved ineffective and the present six miles of levee were constructed, to protect the City's safety.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It will be seen therefore, that the protection of the 1418 acres of the City of Marysville by the levee system, which cost $1,037,132.14, was at the rate of $731.40 per acre; incidentally, the entire levee system was built and paid for in cash, out of tax levies, AS THERE NEVER WAS A BOND EVER ISSUED FOR LEVEE PURPOSES.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I first became a member and President of the Levee Commission, in 1900 and since that time, to date, I have had the responsibility and the supervision of the expenditure of $352,544.05.  I never employed any engineers to make plans, in fact my engineer was always the river itself, as with each occurring flood, which might happen to break previous records, I always had ready survey stakes, painted white, and as soon as the flood crest was reached, the levee foreman would immediately start out and drive these pegs at various places to establish the high water mark reached; then later on, I would employ a surveyor to ascertain what the height of the top of the levee was above this new flood height and I would formulate plans to raise the levee at such places as it was considered necessary so to do.  I always found that the river itself was my best "engineer," it always told me exactly WHAT it could do and then I laid my plans to "outsmart it" by raising the levee to such a point which would be safe to anticipate what IT MIGHT AT SOME FUTURE TIME, show me what ADDITIONAL it could do.  I will frankly admit, however, that on the night of March 19, 1907, the Feather River came uncomfortably close to "turning the tables" and "out-smarting" me but I managed that night to "beat it at its own game" and prevented a catastrophe, but it was a mighty "close shave" that night, standing on the north levee, with the water pouring over its top from two to five inches deep at places, and about five hundred men, working like mad with sand bags and boards to prevent a break.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The floods of 1904, 1907 and 1909, all came close together, and it was during that period that the heaviest expenditures occurred during my administration as the total expenditure during that time was $203,234.40.   But this is not all that was expended on the levees during that period because it was at that time, when the Western Pacific and the Sacramento Northern Railroads were being constructed, and by giving these two railroads easements and franchises on portions of our levees, they in return raised and strengthened those portions of the levees and thereby saved the City at least $100,000.  Since 1910, expenditures on the levee have been mainly for maintenance with some betterments.  The annual cost now for maintenance and administration averages about $3800 per year which should be considered a very reasonable figure, when we stop to consider that the levee system, which had cost to date a little over one million dollars, is the most costly and THE MOST VITAL AND IMPORTANT THING which the City owns today; upon its watchful care and supervision are dependent millions of dollars worth of property and the lives of our people and eternal vigilance has been and always will be, "the price of safety."</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Outside Monies Which Have Been Raised by the Levee Commission for the Benefit of the City's Levees</P>
136.sgm:<P>Cost to the</P>
136.sgm:<P>Outside<HSEP>Levee</P>
136.sgm:<P>Contributions Commission</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the 1904 flood, practically the entire Yuba River was diverted to the Kupser channel at the base of the easterly end of the City levee.  We interested Major W. H. Harts, of the California Debris Commission to construct an earth barrier across this channel<HSEP>$  2,562.95<HSEP>$  .00</P>
136.sgm:<P>We then protected this embankment with a brush mattress for the California Debris Commission<HSEP>473.32<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1904, we were raising most of the Yuba River levee and obtained from the Board of Supervisors, for protection of County roads<HSEP>5,000.00<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>At that same time, we arranged for clearing brush for a channel at Shanghai Bend and obtained from the State of California<HSEP> 5,500.00<HSEP>1,125.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the failure of the Munson sand training wall on the Yuba River's north bank, Mr. Munson was awarded a contract by the Federal Engineers for $50,000.00 for repairs.  We then, with the consent of the Engineers, induced W.P. Hammon of the dredging company, to purchase this contract from Mr. Munson for $15,000 and build a new dredge (No.12) and for the remaining $35,000.00 replace the sand training wall with a cobble embankment<HSEP>50,000.00<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>When the job was about complete, we endeavored to induce Mr. Hammon to continue to the foothill and replace the balance of this sand embankment with a dredge embankment.  It was with considerable difficulty, but finally the California Debris Commission contributed $45,000.00 and I "passed the hat" and raised $15,000 for right of way through James O'Brien's land and the work was performed.<HSEP>60,000.00<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the 1907 flood, we planned the clearing of all trees <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:and brush between Marysville and Yuba City.  Contributions were obtained from the Southern Pacific and Western Pacific, Sacramento Northern and District No. 1 and the work performed<HSEP>2,078.00<HSEP>420.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>This was followed by clearing of trees and brush on south banks of Yuba River<HSEP>1,100.00<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>This was followed by more clearing, south of D Street bridge, State contributed $450.00 and Levee Commission and District No. 1, costing<HSEP>1,150.00<HSEP>350.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the 1907 flood, we arranged with the State to dredge a new channel on south end of D Street bridge to Eliza Bend.  Again we "passed the hat" for rights of way required.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Yuba River right of way channel cost<HSEP>4,610.75<HSEP>512.55</P>
136.sgm:<P>Feather River right of way channel cost<HSEP>3,560.00<HSEP>600.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>State's contribution for dredging<HSEP>75,000.00<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1909, permission was granted A. L. Brownlee to operate a sand plant, upstream from the D Street bridge, in return for widening the levee crown, from 16 feet to 32 feet<HSEP>4,900.00<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the south subway wall on 5th Street was completed by the Railroad Company, we were not satisfied with the height.  We induced the railroad company to place additional height and install concrete walls and gates on west end of the subway, cost<HSEP>4,100.00<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>When franchise was granted Western Pacific on K Street levee, they contemplated a branch road to Colusa, so franchise included north subway wall.  They afterwards purchased the electric road, so never placed rails on north subway wall and to do so, made necessary a large fill where a curved track would be at northwest corner of 5th and K Streets.  We were not satisfied with the width of the subway wall at that corner so asked Mr. Levey, President of the Western Pacific to make this fill and place tracks on the north subway wall; he wrote and refused to do so.  I called on him in San Francisco and pointed out that this was a violation of the terms of his franchise on other portions of the levee.  Very reluctantly he complied and did the work<HSEP>3,750.00<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>The trade of the Covillaud land to the Western Pacific saved us $6,000.00 for razing the old Third Street levee and enabled us to obtain more additional work on the levee costing $12,750.00, total<HSEP>18,750.00<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>After the 1928 flood, the public not being satisfied with the low levee for two blocks on each side of the D Street bridge, we erected concrete walls about 980 feet in length costing $5,250.01.  Later, I got a bill through the Legislature and obtained a return of $1604.49 from the State<HSEP>1,604.49<HSEP>3,645.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>We followed this up, with a request to the Western Pacific Company to continue the raise of their tracks, from the foot of E Street to the foot of I Street, by ballasting as their tracks were just three feet above high water mark.  This they did<HSEP>5,854.02<HSEP>.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>Not being satisfied with the dredge material used in raising our K Street levee, in 1934, we asked for and obtained an earth slab, placed on the west side of our K Street levee, from 9th Street to 11th Street, the expense being borne by State and Federal funds, we paying for removing and replacing telegraph poles, etc.      3,254.60<HSEP>234.06</P>
136.sgm:<P>When the above was finished, two years later, we obtained similar work performed, from 11th Street, to the Jewish cemetery, we again paying for removal and replacing of telegraph poles, etc.<HSEP>16,058.47<HSEP>1,427.80</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1937, we again obtained State and Federal funds to do similar work on K Street, from 9th Street, to 6th Street.  When completed, costs were<HSEP>3,750.00<HSEP>400.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1938, as a result of the December flood of 1937, with State and Federal funds, a heavy slab levee was decided upon, from D Street bridge to the K Street levee, thence to the Binney Junction.  This work is now about 50% completed; costs estimated as follows<HSEP>80,000.00<HSEP>9,975.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>Totals<HSEP>$353,057.20<HSEP>$18,689.93</P>
136.sgm:<P>(When this latter job is completed, we are planning for next year, some additional work, at a comparatively small cost to the City, and when this programme is completed next year, it will give the City one of the best, if not the finest levee system in the State.  In the lower delta regions of the Valley, there are some larger levees, made necessary because of poorer foundations and also because of prolonged high water stages in winter months which does not apply in our levee system.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>In other words, to obtain $353,057.20 of "outside" monies for the direct benefits of the Marysville Levee system, the Levee Commission contributed an additional sum of only $18,689.93.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The above does not include, possibly a total of an additional $100,000 of State and Federal funds, expended for retards, channel correction, brush clearing, etc., to which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The above does not include also, approximately one million dollars which has been expended by the State and Federal Governments on other levee systems on the Feather River, while I have been a member of "The Committee of Five" under the Curry Act and representing all the Reclamation Districts on the Feather River.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The above does not include the construction of the two parallel channels, which made the river scour about 20 feet and so made obsolete, about five miles of our east levee which extends to the Kupser ranch at the foothills.  It took a dredge, specially equipped with a side stacker about eight years to complete this work.  Aside from the actual dredging operations, necessary to construct these two 750 foot parallel channels, I raised funds to obtain the necessary rights of way required, about $40,000 and cost the City of Marysville nothing, the dredge company making no charge of course for their eight years' service of their work, they presumably and undoubtedly making a profit on the dredge operations.</P>
136.sgm:<P>EMOLUMENTS</P>
136.sgm:<P>As a member of "The Committee of Five," I had been promised $125 per month; I actually received for my five years of service, an average of $31 per month which did not cover actual expenses.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As a member of the State Reclamation Board for ten years, I received only expenses but no salary.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As President of the Marysville Levee Commission for many years, I received no salary and paid my own expenses.  Since June 4, 1929, when I have been General Manager of the Marysville Levee Commission, I have received a salary (which I have voluntarily been reducing from time to time).  The total amount so received, if spread over the forty-two years I have been interested in the City's levees, and as Mayor for four years, would average $20.42 per month for that period of years, which has not covered actual expenses, during that period of years.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This reminds me of an occurrence when we had a hot contest for control of the Levee Commission in 1908.  There was a colored man named Churchill, who had been born in Marysville and had always been very friendly to me.  The day after the election, when we had won our contest at the polls, I happened to meet this man Churchill, who by the way, stammered badly.  Churchill remarked, "Well, well, well Bill, we we beat them, didn't we," to which I replied, "We surely did."  Churchill then said, "Guess this this Levee Commission, pretty good job, huh huh Bill."  I told him I took a lot of fun out of it but we got no salary, to which Churchill replied, "You you mean Bill, you you get no salary and do all all this work on the levee for for nothing?"  I told him that was a fact.  Churchill, with an incredulous look on his face replied, "Oh oh oh Bill, you you can't make me believe that, no sah, you you can't make me believe that."</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXVI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Manner in Which the Marysville Levee was Raised and Strengthened after the 1907 Flood</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE Marysville levees have been pronounced by State Engineers also Federal Engineers as among the best constructed levees in the State.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the first place, the foundation ground upon which the levees rest is first class material, almost all being a few feet of heavy clay material, resting on hard pan.  The old original 1907 levee was constructed of this heavy clay material, practically impervious to seepage.  After the 1907 flood, the levees were raised and widened with various additions of clay, sand and dredge material brought from Oroville, practically making all our levee system wave proof, current proof, gopher proof and seepage proof.  The following pages show some typical cross-sections of our present levee at various places, showing the various layers of material of different kinds which have been added to the old levee of 1907.  A study of these cross-section diagrams will be self explanatory.</P>
136.sgm:<P>We discovered, during the 1928 flood, that this dredge material, placed on top of the levees was not impervious to seepage as we had expected it to be.  In the 1928 flood, seepage through the top dredge material occurred at the foot of First Street, near the Arnoldy wood yard.  As a result, we have since then been obtaining State and Federal funds with which to "slab" the levee on the water side to prevent this seepage.  This has now been performed from the Jewish cemetery, westerly to 9th and K Streets and we are planning for more of this character of work, from the latter point, to the westerly end of the north subway wall, also along the Yuba River levee, from about H Street, easterly to the D Street bridge, which, when completed, will care for this situation.  This seepage through this top coat of dredge material and over the old inside crown of the levee is not dangerous, because of the extreme width of the levee crown at those places, but it alarms the citizens and "does not look so good."  Only the north subway wall on Fifth Street and a short distance between D and H Streets remain to be completed in this way and at the same time, these stretches of levees are also being raised to bring them all up to a uniform height.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARYSVILLE LEVEE ON YUBA RIVER AT FRONT &amp; C STREETS A.  Old levee on March 19th, 1907.  Flood was about 18 inches higher than the old crown of the levee, which however was carefully sacked, two sacks wide and four sacks high, the day previous to the arrival of the peak of the flood the following day. B.  Earth fill by Western Pacific. C.  Dredge tailings from Oroville by Western Pacific. S.  Sand fill by Yuba River Sand Co. from river channel. D.  Dredge tailings from Oroville by Western Pacific. F.  Concrete wall with wide base, three feet deep below levee crown (1928). G.  Slickens fill by trucks, in 1928. SCALE.  Ten feet to one inch, approx.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARYSVILLE NORTH LEVEE AT NORTH END OF RAMIREZ STREET A.  Old levee on March 19th, 1907.  For about 2 1/2 miles, flood was about 5 inches above crown of levee but was held from breaking with boards and sacks on an 8 foot crown. B.  Earth fill with scrapers under contract with Ed. Malley of San Francisco. C.  Dredge tailings from Oroville by Western Pacific. D.  Earth crown put on with wagons. All this stretch of levee, from the Jewish cemetery, easterly to its connection with the Yuba River at the Browns Valley road, is 6' 2" above the highest high water mark which was on Jan. 16th, 1909. SCALE.  Ten feet to one inch, approx.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARYSVILLE LEVEE AT CATHOLIC CEMETERY A.  Old levee on March 19th, 1907; flood about 4 inches deep over crown. B.  Earth fill from Scheu Ranch by Western Pacific. C.  Dredge tailings from Oroville by Western Pacific. D.  Earth slab put on by scrapers by Carstenbrook Bros. E.  Earth slab put on by wagons by Carstenbrook Bros. F.  Earth slab by Le Tourney scrapers in 1935 paid for by State &amp; Federal funds. SCALE.  Ten feet to one inch, approx.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARYSVILLE LEVEE AT COUNTY HOSPITAL A.  Old levee on March 19th, 1907; flood was within two inches of crown. B.  Earth fill, brought in by Western Pacific trains. E.  Dredge tailings from Oroville by Western Pacific. C.  Red dirt with part gravel from Oroville by Western Pacific for "veneer." D.  Additional clay slab by Southern Pacific Co. to prevent seepage. F.  Earth fill with scrapers by Carstenbrook Bros. G.  Earth slab in 1935, paid for by State &amp; Federal funds. SCALE.  Ten feet to one inch, approx.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARYSVILLE LEVEE AT E &amp; 15th STREETS A.  Old levee on March 19th, 1907; flood about one inch over top. B.  Earth slab put on in 1935 with Le Tourney scrapers and paid for with State &amp; Federal funds.  Previous to this work, we had depended upon the Western Pacific Railroad embankment for protection which crossed over the low ground from the north end of E Street, southwesterly to the north end of H Street but it was not satisfactory or dependable because it was largely constructed of dredge material on its top five feet.  This now gives us a "double" levee system at this location.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXVII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>A $200 Investment Which Paid The City Big Dividends</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN FEBRUARY 1895, as Mayor I made a report to the Council on the probable cost for a system of drainage sewers for the City and also for the cost of filling all the streets and alleys in the slough area between 2nd and 9th Streets and recommended the work be done and that the necessary monies be raised by means of a bond issue, also that a new pumping plant be erected at 15th and E Streets, to replace the old one at 2nd and F Streets.  This at first raised a storm of protest, particularly the proposed removal of the pumping plant from 2nd Street to 15th Street, many claiming that the natural fall of the land was "to the south" and that I was proposing to "run the water up-hill."  The Council, however, backed my plan, an engineer, George A. Atherton, City Engineer of Stockton was employed; he made a detailed report with estimates on April 2nd to the Council and on April 9th, the report was adopted and on June 4th, an Ordinance was adopted calling an election for the issue of bonds to the extent of $40,000 to carry out the plan.  I got out a circular, giving a detailed statement of what was intended, estimates of all costs, the necessity of the improvement, with the result the bonds were carried with a favorable vote of 692 "for" and only 94 "against."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Before I had ever made public my plan and realizing that the only place to obtain material for filling the slough was a large area, on the south side of the City levee, then on Third Street (where the ball park is now situated), I confidentially took the matter up with the owner, Mr. Charles Covillaud (son of one of the founders of Marysville) and asked him for an option on his holdings.  Mr. Covillaud was very public spirited and cooperative; said that he had invested about $600 in this tract as a speculation but that he was very much in accord with the proposed public improvement and gave me an option on his entire holding for only $200.  After the bond election, I purchased the land from Covillaud in my own name, paid him the $200 and then in turn, deeded the land to the City for $200 but put in the deed a reservation, that it must be used only for furnishing earth material, free of charge to the citizens of Marysville, otherwise, the property would revert back to me.  The day after the election, John Stevenson approached Covillaud for an option on the property; Covillaud referred him to me as holding an option.  Stevenson then called on me and offered me $1000 for my option; I asked him what he wanted the land for, to which he replied, "Oh I will put a man on the levee and charge 10 cents for every load taken away"; I then told him that this was what I proposed to prevent by a restriction I proposed to put in the deed, when I sold it to the City.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>There was ample material there and the result was that the entire slough area was finally filled, including, not only the City's streets and alleys but the privately owned property as well.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Then in 1910, I approached the Western Pacific Railroad Company for some additional work on our levees, suggesting that in payment of these improvements I would endeavor to get the City to give them, free of charge, all the land which the City had acquired from Covillaud five years previous; this area had served its purpose and this large area should be valuable to the railroad for possible freight yards, industrial sites and for the new embankment, which they would have to build for their railroad, which at that time planned that the main line cross the north end of the D Street bridge.  The Railroad Company finally agreed to the plan, I took the matter up with the City Council and they agreed to give the railroad company the Covillaud property.  Full details of this agreement were published in the <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm:<P>As a result of this trade, we obtained $12,750.00 work of improvement on the City levee, which, added to material which the City and the private owners had been able to obtain to fill up all the slough from 2nd to 9th streets, made the original investment of $200.00 for this area result in good dividends.  In addition to this, when the railroad company had built a new embankment, on a long curve, from 5th Street to the D Street bridge, this new embankment made a new levee for the City and made the old levee on 3rd Street obsolete.  This levee, being on a City street, was then torn down and the material used in further raising the fill, which had previously been made on Napoleon Square and the block of land, on which the Grammar Schools are now located.  Had not the Railroad Company constructed a new levee for us about one thousand feet further to the south, we would have been compelled to raise the old Third Street levee, at an expense of $6000.  That $200 investment for the Covillaud property paid the City about $20,000 in "dividends."</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXVIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>River Gauges at Different Places</P>
136.sgm:<P>PREVIOUS to the 1907 flood, I had maintained for several years a gauge at Alabama Bar on the Yuba River, in the canyon below Clipper Mills.  An old man named Peterson lived there and I had a private telephone line reaching from his cabin to the W. J. Schultz store at Clipper, and every hour Mr. Schultz would relay me the hourly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>After the flood of 1907, I established a more elaborate system of gauges about the City and other distant points, so that now, in addition to my book records, I maintain a large chart, to be used at flood periods, and with different colored pins, follow up on the chart the hourly advances of the water on each gauge so that at a glance, the situation everywhere is apparent.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GAUGES ABOUT MARYSVILLE LEVEE</P>
136.sgm:<P>(Zero on each gauge is same altitude)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Ft.     In.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 34 (Old Slaughter House)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>34     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>23     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>27     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>27     9</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>25     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 37 (Lone Tree Cabin)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>34     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>19     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>27     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>27     9</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>25     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 36 (Kimball Lane)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>34     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>19     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>27     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>27     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>25     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 35 (Oroville Railroad)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>34     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>19     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>27     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>27     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>25     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 33 (Catholic Cemetery)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>32     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>19     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>26     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>27     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>25     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 32 (E &amp; 15th Streets)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>34     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>14     0</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>26     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>27     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>25     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 29 (County Hospital)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>36     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>14     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>26     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>27     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>25     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 27 (K and 9th Streets)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>36     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>12     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>24     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>26     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>24     7</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 23 (West end Subway) South Side</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>36     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>10     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>23     9</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>24     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>24     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 21 (D Street Bridge)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee, east side<HSEP>31     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee, west side<HSEP>34     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>23     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>24     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>24     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 17 (Yuba &amp; 4th Streets)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>32     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>20     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>25     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>26     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>25     9</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 15 (12th Street pipe)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>31     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>21     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>26     9</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>27     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>26     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 13 (Airport)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>35     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>25     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>30     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>30    0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>28    0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Gauge No. 11 (Old Citizen's levee)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee<HSEP>39     6</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Base of levee<HSEP>29     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>35     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>33     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>34     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>GAUGES AT DISTANT LOCATIONS</P>
136.sgm:<P>Daguerre Point concrete lip</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of concrete side walls<HSEP>11     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Surface of concrete floor<HSEP>zero</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1913 read<HSEP>8     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1915 read<HSEP>8     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>10     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Colgate Power House Gauge</P>
136.sgm:<P>Floor of power house is altitude<HSEP>534</P>
136.sgm:<P>Floor of power house on gauge<HSEP>16     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Low water reading is<HSEP> 2 ft. below zero</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of Nov. 19th, 1920 read<HSEP>14     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of Feb. 6th, 1925 read<HSEP>17     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of Feb. 21st, 1927 read<HSEP>14     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of Mch. 26th, 1928 read<HSEP>19     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>Goodyear's Bar Gauge</P>
136.sgm:<P>River's bed reads<HSEP>zero</P>
136.sgm:<P>Low water reads usually<HSEP>2     9</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>15     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>17     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Oroville, foot of Meyers Street</P>
136.sgm:<P>Top of levee reads<HSEP>19     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read (produced)<HSEP>15     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>13     7</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>13     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>Oroville, USWB Gauge, bridge (most reliable)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>28     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>26     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>27     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>Los Plumas Power House gauge</P>
136.sgm:<P>Low water usually<HSEP>455</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1907 read<HSEP>493</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1909 read<HSEP>489</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1913 read<HSEP>480</P>
136.sgm:<P>Flood of 1928 read<HSEP>481.6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Have also records of gauges at Nicolaus, Knight's Landing, Red Bluff, Colusa, Sacramento, Folsom, etc.  For the last 43 years, I have kept records of the <HI REND="italics">DAILY</HI>
136.sgm:<P>(High water readings of flood of Dec. 1937, see pages 206 and 207.)</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXIX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>High Water Readings of the Yuba River at the "D" Street Bridge, Marysville</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE first high water record kept of the Yuba River was in the great flood of the winter of 1861-2.  Near where is now the D Street bridge, was growing at that time a large oak tree, and the highest water reached at the time of that flood was established by a large railroad spike driven in the trunk of this tree and remained there until the D Street bridge was constructed when my brother-in-law, A. C. Bingham, had a survey made to determine what the altitude of this spike registered on the newly established gauge and ascertained that the flood height of the 1861-2 flood was 11 feet 6 inches.</P>
136.sgm:<P>(This reading was 18 inches lower than "D" Street; there was no levee on the river bank at that time and the level of "D" Street those days was the same as it is today.</P>
136.sgm:<P><HSEP>Ft. In.</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 11, 1862<HSEP>11     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 25, 1867<HSEP>13     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 19, 1875<HSEP>15     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 6, 1879<HSEP>15     11</P>
136.sgm:<P>April 22, 1880<HSEP>16     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 4, 1881<HSEP>18     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>April 6, 1882<HSEP>11     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 29, 1883<HSEP>12     9</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 23, 1884<HSEP>17     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 25, 1885<HSEP>14     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 24, 1886<HSEP>15     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 13, 1887<HSEP>11     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 3, 1888<HSEP>10     11</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 11, 1889<HSEP>15     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 8, 1890<HSEP>16     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 24, 1891<HSEP>13     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 28, 1892<HSEP>17     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>May 14, 1893<HSEP>15     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 15, 1894<HSEP>15     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>May 27, 1895<HSEP>15     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 18, 1896<HSEP>18     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 6, 1897<HSEP>16     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 7, 1898<HSEP>12     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 25, 1899<HSEP>18     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 3, 1900<HSEP>18     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 21, 1901<HSEP>19     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 26, 1902<HSEP>16      11</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 31, 1903<HSEP>19     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 25, 1904<HSEP>20     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 23, 1905<HSEP>16     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 19, 1906<HSEP>21     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 19, 1907<HSEP>23    4</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 22, 1908<HSEP>13     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 16, 1909<HSEP>24     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 21, 1910<HSEP>13     11</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 31, 1911<HSEP>20     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 5, 1912<HSEP>6     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>May 19, 1913<HSEP>10     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 1, 1914<HSEP>21     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>May 12, 1915<HSEP>20     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 21, 1916<HSEP>14     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 27, 1917<HSEP>17     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 27, 1918<HSEP>10     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 11, 1919<HSEP>15     11</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 18, 1920<HSEP>10     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 30, 1921<HSEP>10     4</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P><HSEP>Ft.     In.</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 13, 1922<HSEP>13     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>April 6, 1923<HSEP>10     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 9, 1924<HSEP>9     9</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 6, 1925<HSEP>17     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 9, 1926<HSEP>14     7</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 22, 1927<HSEP>19     7</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 27, 1928<HSEP>24     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 16, 1929<HSEP>15     7</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 4, 1930<HSEP>5     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 19, 1931<HSEP>4     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>May 18, 1932<HSEP>6     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>June 1, 1933<HSEP>4     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 27, 1934<HSEP>4     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>April 9, 1935<HSEP>16     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>February 23, 1936<HSEP>17     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>Since the above was written a new flood has arrived with the following reading:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Ft.     In.December 11, 1937<HSEP>25     8</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Record of Low Water Readings of the Yuba River at the "D" Street Bridge at Marysville</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN THE year 1873, a wooden bridge was constructed across the Yuba River at the foot of D Street and when the bridge was erected, a gauge was established and <HI REND="italics">ZERO</HI>
136.sgm: on this gauge, was the reading of the river water surface of that date, which was March 22, 1873.  (Zero on this gauge equals 50.43 California Debris Commission data; in other words, Zero on this gauge is 50.43 feet above mean sea tide.)  Many persons have the mistaken idea, that the bed of the Yuba River, is higher than the level of D Street, but such has never been the case.  For example, when the flood waters of the Yuba River reach thirteen feet on the D Street gauge, then the river water is just level with the surface of D Street.  In the following figures, it will be seen that the "highest low water" reading was on October 28th, 1905, when the gauge read 9 feet 1 inch, or 3 feet 11 inches <HI REND="italics">below</HI>
136.sgm:<P>Ft.     In.</P>
136.sgm:<P>March 22, 1873<HSEP>zero</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 18, 1874<HSEP>1     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 9, 1876<HSEP>3     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>July 22, 1880<HSEP>6     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>June 19, 1883<HSEP>6     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>June 27, 1883<HSEP>6     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 1, 1883<HSEP>5     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 21, 1883<HSEP>5     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 6, 1884<HSEP>6     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 30, 1884<HSEP>6     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>January 30, 1885<HSEP>5     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 17, 1885<HSEP>4     4</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Ft.     In.</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 30, 1885<HSEP>4     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 20, 1886<HSEP>5     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>June 29, 1887<HSEP>6     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>July 7, 1887<HSEP>5     11</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 30, 1887<HSEP>4     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 4, 1888<HSEP>5     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 11, 1889<HSEP>5     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 29, 1890<HSEP>5     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>November 8, 1890<HSEP>5     7</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 1, 1891<HSEP>5     11</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 25, 1892<HSEP>6     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>November 5, 1893<HSEP>6     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>November 11, 1893<HSEP>6     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>November 18, 1893<HSEP>4     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 12, 1894<HSEP>6     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 13, 1894<HSEP>6     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 18, 1895<HSEP>6     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 14, 1895<HSEP>6     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 11, 1896<HSEP>6     7</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 20, 1896<HSEP>6     9</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 27, 1897<HSEP>7     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 29, 1897<HSEP>7     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 9, 1898<HSEP>7     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 14, 1898<HSEP>7     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 1, 1899<HSEP>7     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 30, 1899<HSEP>7     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 10, 1900<HSEP>7     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 28, 1900<HSEP>7     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 13, 1901<HSEP>7     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 1, 1902<HSEP>8     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 31, 1903<HSEP>8     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 17, 1904<HSEP>9     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 28, 1905<HSEP>9     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 30, 1906<HSEP>8     11</P>
136.sgm:<P>November 30, 1907<HSEP>8     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 6, 1908<HSEP>8     4</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 2, 1909<HSEP>6     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 30, 1910<HSEP>5     9</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 1, 1911<HSEP>6     1</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 28, 1912<HSEP>5     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 21, 1913<HSEP>5     5</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 1, 1914<HSEP>5     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 31, 1915<HSEP>5     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 16, 1916<HSEP>4     11</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 20, 1917<HSEP>3      10</P>
136.sgm:<P>December 31, 1918<HSEP>3     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 29, 1919<HSEP>2     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 24, 1920<HSEP>2     7</P>
136.sgm:<P>November 28, 1922<HSEP>3     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 6, 1923<HSEP>1     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 12, 1924<HSEP>1     2</P>
136.sgm:<P>The following readings are BELOW ZERO.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Ft.     In.</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 28, 1925<HSEP>0     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 1, 1926<HSEP>0     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>July 7, 1927<HSEP>0     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 27, 1928<HSEP>0     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>July 16, 1929<HSEP>0     6</P>
136.sgm:<P>November 17, 1930<HSEP>2     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 23, 1931<HSEP>3     3</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 2, 1932<HSEP>1     10</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 24, 1933<HSEP>1      6</P>
136.sgm:<P>August 24, 1934<HSEP>2     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>October 17, 1935<HSEP>1     8</P>
136.sgm:<P>September 27, 1936<HSEP>2     0</P>
136.sgm:<P>It will be noticed that between November 11th and 18th of 1893 there was a drop from 6 feet 3 inches to 4 feet 10 inches in seven days and this is accounted for by the fact that that summer a "cut-off" was constructed where it now is at practically the foot of H Street and when the cut-off was open, the water in the river immediately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXXI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Zero Reading on D Street Gauge</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN 1872 a wooden bridge was constructed across the Yuba River at the foot of D Street.  The following year, some one decided that there should be a gauge erected on the down stream side of this bridge and on March 22, 1873, this gauge was placed in position and zero on the gauge was the surface of the water in the river that day.  Just why this zero was not placed at the then bottom of the river as no doubt in the later summer months of that year, the river no doubt got lower and the surface of the water was presumably below the zero reading, no one seems to know.  In any event, zero is without question the low water reading of that date when it was installed.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I have at various times, had this zero "tied in" with other datum planes and same are as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Zero was the low water mark of the Yuba River on March 22, 1873.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Zero reads 55.00 on Western Pacific Railroad datum.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Zero reads 53.39 on Southern Pacific Railroad datum.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Zero reads 46.83 on U.S. Geological Survey datum.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Zero reads 51.67 on State Engineering Department datum.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Zero reach 51.83 on California Debris Commission datum for Yuba River.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Zero reads 50.43 on California Debris Commission datum for all other rivers.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXXII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Gauges on Marysville Levee System</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The above shows only the High water readings of the flood of December 1937 and also includes additional levee heights after raising levees since that flood.</P>
136.sgm:<P>OUTSIDE RIVER GAUGES</P>
136.sgm:<P>Goodyear's Bar, 4 miles from Yuba River.  Downieville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Low water reading<HSEP>2.9 feet</P>
136.sgm:<P>High water reading<HSEP>17.0 feet</P>
136.sgm:<P>Colgate Power House.  Yuba River.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Low water reading<HSEP>--2.0 feet</P>
136.sgm:<P>High water reading<HSEP>22.0 feet</P>
136.sgm:<P>Los Plumas Power House.  Feather River.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Low water reading<HSEP>455.0 feet</P>
136.sgm:<P>High water reading<HSEP>481.0 feet</P>
136.sgm:<P>Oroville, on Bridge.  Feather River.  U.W.S.B.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Low water reading</P>
136.sgm:<P>High water reading<HSEP>26.3 feet</P>
136.sgm:<P>Because the Yuba River at the D Street bridge has scoured about 13 feet since 1905, they believe that this will result in a lower flood plane, but such is not the case under the new existing conditions.  For example, the flood of 1907 registered 22 feet 3 inches at D Street (when scour had just commenced) while in 1937 the flood, registered 25 feet 8 inches (when there had been a 13-foot scour).</P>
136.sgm:<P>The scouring of the river bed DOES however expedite the lowering of the flood plane peak.  For example, in the 1907 flood, it took eleven days to drop to the 13-foot mark (level with D Street) while in 1937 it took only five days to drop to this 13-foot mark.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXXIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Water Pressure</P>
136.sgm:<P>EVERY time a flood occurs, I am asked about the security of the levees; is there any danger of them breaking from the pressure of the water against them, particularly at some places where the flood waters extend for several miles against the levees, the general opinion being that the less the expanse of water against the levee, the less the pressure.  This idea is of course incorrect, the pressure against the levees, say between Marysville and Yuba City, where the river is comparatively narrow, is just the same as the pressure against our north levee, where the flood waters extend a distance of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Now let us assume we have a levee, say 15 feet high, with a crown width of eight feet, with side slopes of 3 feet to 1 foot; this would make the base of the levee 98 feet thick.  If the levee is constructed of heavy clay material (such as our levees are), this material will weigh about 100 pounds to a cubic foot, so if the levee is 98 feet thick at the base, then the weight of the levee material behind every square foot at the base would be 9800 pounds and the pressure of the water, if it was ten feet deep, would be 650 pounds, pressing against the 9800 pounds of levee material.  This is what is called the "factor of safety" and in the above case, then the weight of the levee material is about fifteen times greater than the water pressure against it.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In our levee system at flood times, rarely have the flood waters remained against the levees more than a few days, but in the delta region on the lower rivers, the flood waters remain against the levees for many weeks and the material is mostly "peat" soil with poor foudations for the levees.  The constant pressure of the water results in the water seeping into the levee material and softening the levee, and as a result, they have to have much greater thickness to their levees than we do at Marysville, where, as previously stated, the earth used in the levees is mostly heavy clay and the levees are situated on practically hard pan ground.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Even under these conditions, seepage occurs at various places, this seepage almost invariably being through the ground and under the base of the levee; this seepage water will show up perhaps close to the levee base; if such seepage is perfectly clear water, there is no occasion for alarm, but, if discolored muddy water is observed, that is a different matter and requires immediate investigation and attention.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXXIV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Agitation for New Levee Commissioners</P>
136.sgm:<P>AFTER the 1904 and 1907 floods when so much money was being expended on the City's levee system, very largely under my plans and direct supervision, some citizens contended that both John C. White and W. T. Ellis Sr., were getting too old for the job; that they had performed their duties for many years, that the actual work was devolving on me and that it would be best to have two new and younger men on the Commission, I to be retained.  This agitation was started by certain parties, with whom I had "crossed swords" at various times and, to me, it was quite obvious that the intention was to place me as a "minority member" of the Commission but at the same time, letting the public believe that they were very favorable to myself.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>As soon as this proposal was made public, I immediately came out in the newspapers with an announcement (generally referred to as an ultimatum), that the three incumbent Levee Commissioners would again be candidates for the office and three opponents be placed in nomination; that if, as a result of the election, I should be elected and John C. White and W. T. Ellis Sr., were defeated, that I would decline to qualify for the position to which I had been elected.  (This was in February 1908.)  This resulted in there being six candidates for Levee Commissioners with three to be elected.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Great interest was taken by the public, it being the first time there had ever been a "scrap" for the position of Levee Commissioner, a position which paid no salaries or expenses, it being the idea in the original Act, that no one would aspire to the position except those who had the interests of the City and the safe maintenance of its levee at heart.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The election resulted in the three incumbent members being again elected, my father and myself, by safe majorities, but John C. White was elected by the close margin of only four votes over Mr. H. H. Dunning.  This resulted in a contest commenced in the Court by Mr. Dunning, he claiming that the election officers had been careless in the counting, lax in their duties, etc.  Mr. Dunning no doubt confident, that if he could win out over Mr. White, I would keep my word and refuse to act, in which case, my father would do likewise with the result that there would be an entirely new Board of Commissioners.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mr. Dunning lost his contest, Mr. White was declared elected and the old Board proceeded to carry out the plans, which had already been formulated, for more levee work.  There has never been a "contest" for the position of Levee Commissioner since.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXXV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Agitation to Widen the River at the D Street Bridge and Replace with a New Bridge at Simpson Lane</P>
136.sgm:<P>AS A RESULT of the floods of 1904, 1907 and 1909 coming so close together, each succeeding flood being higher than the preceding one and the bed of the Yuba River having been constantly raising for many years past, many citizens became alarmed and came to the incorrect conclusion that the width of the Yuba River at the D Street bridge was entirely too narrow, that the levee on the south bank should be set back about a half mile to the high ground and that the bridge across the river at the D Street bridge should be abandoned and that a new bridge should be constructed between Marysville and the south side of the river.  This bridge was to follow the old Simpson Lane route, the terminal of the bridge to be near the Dunning Ranch, (site of the old historic "Yuba Dam").</P>
136.sgm:<P>Not only were there many citizens of both the City and County who seemed favorable to the proposal, but the Mayor and Council and the Board of Supervisors became <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The Board of Supervisors addressed a long letter to the Marysville Levee Commission, setting forth their views and requesting a reply as to our point of view.  This was replied to at length and I had both letters printed in a four page circular and circulated through the mails, for the public's information.  I followed this up with another four page circular giving a lot of facts and figures endeavoring to demonstrate the mistake that would be made if the proposed plan were carried out; I showed that the bridge at D Street was 2000 feet long but that if the Simpson Lane plan was carried out, it would require several bridge openings as well as high earth embankments and that the total length of these bridges and embankments would be 9365 feet long.  I contended that the proposed earth embankment for an elevated road, from the City levee on A Street, for a distance of about 1500 feet, to connect with the first bridge across the first river channel, would be at right angles to our levee and the flood flow, would cause a dangerous "pocketing" of the flood waters against the levee, making necessary the raising of the City levee at Yuba Square and some distance easterly upstream.  I also showed that the cost of the project would entail an additional tax rate on the City of $1.45 for its share of the expense and an additional tax rate of $1.25 on the County; that the construction of this new route into Marysville and the abandonment of the D Street bridge, would be an inconvenience, not only to the traffic passing through Marysville to Sacramento but would also be an inconvenience to all the residents, directly south of Marysville, who would have to travel several miles easterly, then about two miles westerly to get into and out of town.</P>
136.sgm:<P>For about three months, there was a great deal of discussion and then an alternate proposal was advanced by some citizens which they called the "Lose the Yuba" project, which proposed that the Yuba River be entirely diverted from its present channel, at and for several miles above and below Marysville, by diverting the river, at the base of the foothills (where Hammonton is now located) and have a new channel for the river, erly direction to Plumas Lake, thence into the Feather River.  Mr. Fred H. Greely, I believe, originated this plan and soon had many advocates and followers, particularly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>with new levees on both sides of this channel, the new channel to run in a southwest-</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXXVI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Why Our Present High Water Mark of 24 feet at Marysville will be Exceeded at Some Future Flood</P>
136.sgm:<P>PREVIOUS to the consummation of the present flood control plan, and particularly before the reclamation of some 60,000 acres of District No. 1500, generally known as the Armour project in the Sutter Basin, the Yuba, Bear and Feather rivers discharged their flood waters through Nelson Slough and other water ways to the south, into the Sutter Basin, where these waters mingled with the excess waters of the Sacramento River into this basin, making a flood width, west of Nicolaus of about eleven miles.  Then these waters would discharge, partly down the Sacramento River itself, below Vernon, the greater portion discharging over the natural south banks of the Sacramento River, for a long distance, in the vicinity of Wild Irishman, Kenney and other bends of the river into the Yolo Basin, as there were no artificial or natural obstructions to the flood waters seeking escape into the Yolo Basin, thence south to Rio Vista and the bays below.  Before reclamation and the flood control plan was completed, these basins contained the following approximate areas:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Colusa Basin<HSEP>93,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Butte Basin<HSEP>60,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sutter Basin<HSEP>116,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>American Basin<HSEP>53,400 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sacramento Basin<HSEP>32,300 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Yolo Basin<HSEP>164,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total Basin overflow area<HSEP>518,700 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Since reclamation of the basins commenced and the Flood Control Plan has been completed, the following approximate areas in those basins have been reclaimed from storage of flood waters:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Colusa Basin<HSEP>93,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Butte Basin<HSEP>00 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sutter Basin<HSEP>91,995 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>American Basin<HSEP>53,400 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sacramento Basin<HSEP>32,300 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Yolo Basin<HSEP>94,000 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total area reclaimed<HSEP>364,695 acres</P>
136.sgm:<P>Before all this reclamation occurred, the flood waters "hesitated" at these various basins and filled each one up in turn "with a good big drink," then continued onward to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Finally, when reclamation took place, the flood control plan with its by-passes were established and in the meantime, the rivers had been previously filled with debris, quite naturally higher flood planes in the rivers resulted.  The world war, which brought great demands for products of the soil at very high prices for such products, no doubt resulted in a great deal of reclamation being accomplished which otherwise, would have never been accomplished for many years yet to come.  This reclamation which was started in the first place with no comprehensive plan for the needs of the rivers, was what made imperative the flood control plan formulated by Captain Thomas H. Jackson of the California Debris Commission.  It was a good plan but in my humble opinion there were some engineering errors made later on, when it was carried out, which, I firmly believe, will be demonstrated some time when a maximum flood occurs on <HI REND="italics">ALL</HI>
136.sgm:<P>However, aside from the subject of this chapter, I am dwelling on "why our present high water mark of 24 feet will be exceeded at some future flood," and the reasons for making that statement are as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>1.  In a previous chapter, I have explained that the floods of the Bear, Yuba, Feather and Sacramento rivers would mingle and make an overflow width, west of Nicolaus of about eleven miles; the reclamation of the Sutter Basin has now narrowed that width, just below Nicolaus, to seven thousand feet or less than one and a half miles.</P>
136.sgm:<P>2.  I have also explained in that same chapter how these combined flood waters had a free and unobstructed discharge into the Yolo Basin; such is not now the case as the flood entrance to the Yolo Basin is now regulated by a solid concrete weir, known as the Fremont Weir, which is about 9200 feet long and cost about one million dollars, the crest of this Weir being three and a half feet higher than the bottom of the Sutter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>3.  The third and major reason is, the closing off of the escape waters at Hamilton Bend, about four miles down stream on the Feather River from Oroville and where from time immemorial, such waters have been escaping at extreme flood periods, in a westerly direction in the town of Biggs area.  The flood control plan, called for levees to be constructed near the westerly bank of the Feather River, for a distance of about six miles but dredgers are now working there and now have possibly seventy-five per cent of the escape waters shut off for the next good flood and in due time, levees will be constructed for the remaining distance which will probably not be dredged but leveed.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The last big flood we had on the Feather River was in 1928 (before any dredging had commenced at Hamilton Bend and the escape waters did a large amount of damage to a large territory of farming land, also to the town of Biggs, as well as to the Southern Pacific and Sacramento Northern Railroads and to the canals of the Sutter Butte Canal Company.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As soon as that flood had subsided, I made a trip of investigation and ascertained that the flood waters had covered the State highway for a distance of about four miles with varying depths from one to six feet.  Being desirous to have some estimate of what amount of water escaped in that manner, I immediately engaged Mr. E. A. Bailey (former State Control Engineer) to make an examination and survey; this he did and the final conclusion reached was that approximately 35,000 second feet of water had escaped in that flood and, by the way, this was not a maximum flood on the Feather River, it having been twenty-two inches lower at Oroville than it was in the 1907 flood and also did not have a long sustained flood, as had been the 1907 flood.  This is the reason why all the levees on the Feather River have been raised during the last few years with State and Federal funds in anticipation of higher water planes, than have been recorded in the past.</P>
136.sgm:<P>4.  For the three reasons given above, when a repetition of the discharge of the 1907 flood occurs on the Feather and Yuba Rivers, the present high water mark of 24 feet on the D Street gauge (and 24 feet 6 inches on our Feather River gauge) will be exceeded.  On the Feather River gauge it is expected the flood plane will be raised an additional twenty inches.  This is the theoretical assumption; as usual, the river itself will eventually give the correct answer; personally I am inclined to believe that a duplication of the 1907 flood discharge will exceed those estimates.  This matter of a higher flood plane between Marysville and Yuba City should be a subject for serious consideration <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Being satisfied in my own mind that the closing off of the escape waters at Hamilton Bend will result in a greater increase of the flood heights between Marysville and Yuba City of 20 inches, I have, as fast as State and Federal funds are available, been "slabbing" and raising our levees, from the Jewish cemetery to K and 9th Streets and am planning on similar work from 9th and K Streets to the west end of the 5th Street subway, also the south subway wall, also easterly to the D Street bridge.</P>
136.sgm:<P>NOTE--Since the above was written, the flood of December 1937 has occurred and my prediction of an additional flood height of the Feather River between Marysville and Yuba City of possibly twenty inches has actually occurred, the increased height, however, actually being twenty-four inches; this, notwithstanding the fact that the Feather River at this flood was twelve feet below highest water dam) at Los Plumas Power house above Oroville, and nine inches below high water mark at Oroville.  This apparent inconsistency can be explained by the fact that at Los Plumas Power house, situated on the North fork of the Feather River, the Lake Almanor Dam restrained considerable of the discharge from that fork of the river, while the south and middle forks of the river (down stream, from this (dam) did not have as large or as prolonged a discharge, as in the 1907 flood, when record flood heights were established.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXXVII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Early Day Suggested Plans for Flood Control and First Reclamation Board Act</P>
136.sgm:<P>AS EARLY as 1878, C. E. Grunsky, Assistant State Engineer under State Engineer William Ham Hall, commenced investigations and prepared plans for flood and debris control in order to solve the vexed problems which finally resulted in the State constructing brush and earth dams on the Yuba and Bear rivers but which subsequent floods completely destroyed.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1880, a plan for a by-pass system was offered by Messrs. Hall, Alexander and Mendell but nothing was done.  This was followed by a similar, but amended, plan by Messrs. Mawson and Grunsky in 1894; again nothing was done.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In 1904, Major Dabney, who had at that time had great success in flood control projects in the Yazoo District, adjoining the Mississippi River in Louisiana, was engaged to come to California and plan a flood control plan for the Sacramento Valley.  He also made investigations and finally presented what is known as the Dabney <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>It was very fortunate indeed that none of these plans were ever carried out for the reason that none of them took into consideration the volume of flood discharge of which the rivers were capable and as demonstrated later on in the flood of 1907; had they been carried out, they would have proved complete failures.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I was personally acquainted with all of these engineers and when Major Dabney was out here, I made it my business to get in touch with him and have him make an inspection of our Marysville levees and pass his judgment on same.  I entertained him for a day here and upon his return to Louisiana, received a letter from him thanking me for the courtesies shown him and paying a compliment to our method of levee building, and particularly for the system of giving proper channel capacity for flood waters on both the Yuba and Feather rivers above Marysville, in marked contrast with the system prevailing on the Sacramento River, where most all levees were at, or close to, the river banks.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was later on that large capital commenced to be interested in reclaiming large areas of the various tule basins and their proposed plans disclosed that they were not taking any heed of the requirements of the rivers' channel capacity at excessive flood periods.  General Will S. Green, publisher of the Colusa <HI REND="italics">Sun</HI>
136.sgm:<P>It was at this same time that Captain Thomas H. Jackson of the California Debris Commission was quietly formulating his flood control plan for by-passes after the disastrous experiences of the 1907 flood.  I had become well acquainted with the Captain we made a number of trips of investigation on the Yuba and Feather Rivers and I felt highly complimented one day, when at his office, he confidentially showed me the by-pass plan which he was working on.  I was immensely impressed with the plan and told him of the idea I had of having some State control over new levees so that all new levees should conform with his plan and called his attention to the fact that tentative reclamation plans were already under way at various places which would interfere with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:his project; he agreed, but said he had no authority to stop such proposed works.  Captain Jackson then finished and made public his by-pass plans for flood control in 1910.  The West Sacramento Reclamation District plans were under way and their plans proposed "stealing" a long stretch, about one mile in width of the lowest portion of the trough of the Yolo Basin, just south of the Southern Pacific trestle.  I then went and called on Mr. Lilenthal, President of that proposed reclamation and endeavored to dissuade him from extending his proposed reclamation west levee out so far into the Yolo Basin, but without results.  I then took the matter up with Senator Boynton of Oroville and Assemblyman Hewitt of Yuba City, Speaker of the House, and Congressman Kent and urged the necessity of action and suggesting, that at the special session of the Legislature, which Governor Johnson was about to call for action on other matters, that his call include some recommendation for State control.  At that same time, Congressman Kent came to Marysville for a visit and I broached the subject to him and he stated that he would go at once to Sacramento and see the Governor.  He suggested that I do likewise, which I did a few days afterward, but before doing so, I called on Mr. E. A. Forbes, who was then proprietor of the Marysville <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm: and presented my ideas and on November 10, 1911 he had inserted an article embodying my views.  A few days afterward, on November 18, 1911, I was in San Francisco to meet Congressman Humphreys of Washington at a banquet tendered him at the Hotel St. Francis; this was followed by a day trip up the river to Sacramento on the Steamer <HI REND="italics">Navajo</HI>
136.sgm:<P>Governor Johnson issued a call for a special session of the Legislature on November 18, 1911, and included in his call, his desire for some legislation for a reclamation control body.  Under date of November 23, 1911, Mr. Forbes' local newspaper, <HI REND="italics">The Appeal</HI>
136.sgm:<P>THANKS TO THE GOVERNOR</P>
136.sgm:<P>"In his call for a special session, the Governor has put Yuba County especially, and the valley in general, under obligations by including in the subjects which the Legislature may legislate upon, the two most important at this time for the valley and this County.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"He has adopted the idea of our W. T. Ellis, Jr., to place the reclamation districts under the control of some State body so that in the future they may not conflict with the great idea of reclaiming the whole valley.  Mr. Ellis' views have already been fully set forth in these columns.  His position as the greatest expert in the matter in the valley leaves no doubt of their wisdom and it is a subject of general gratification that the Governor has arranged to allow them to be enacted into law at the special session.  Yuba <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>On November 27, 1911, the Legislature convened; a Bill had been drawn up creating a State Reclamation Board; the Bill was passed and was approved by Governor Johnson on December 12, 1911.</P>
136.sgm:<P>About five months later, I received a letter from Governor Johnson to call and see him on May 18, 1912; I did so and much to my surprise he handed me his appointment of myself to be a member of the new State Reclamation Board and informed me that the other two members were to be Mr. V. S. McClatchy of Sacramento and Mr. Peter Cook of Rio Vista.  Seven days later, (May 25, 1912) we met and perfected organization, Mr. McClatchy being elected President and I was elected Secretary.  We were to serve without salary and pay our own expenses and pioneer a thirty-three million dollar project; I did not realize at the time what very interesting and "warm" sessions we were going to have for the next few years.  In 1913, the second Reclamation Board Act was adopted, increasing the membership from three to seven, giving additional powers and, this time, making an allowance to each member for expenses.  This new Act also created the Sacramento and San Joaquin Drainage District, comprising 1,726,553 acres of which about 500,000 acres were in the San Joaquin Valley.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXXVIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Seasonal Weather Variations and Rainfall Records</P>
136.sgm:<P>OFT times, after a series of wet winters or dry winters or perhaps a series of hot summers or cool summers, various people will remark, "that the weather is changing," but such is not the case; it is simply that "history is repeating itself," changes in various cycles have occurred many times before, and actual "changes in the weather" take many centuries to account for.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It is a well established fact that there have been no material climatic changes in California for at least the past two hundred years.  Since the discovery of gold in California, in 1849, much data has been kept from which rainfall curves, etc., may be constructed and which gives a complete history of weather conditions which have existed in California since that date; but prior to 1849, no known records had been kept and which could be available for a study of weather conditions in previous periods.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It is a peculiar condition that although there is a sufficient water supply in the State to meet its ultimate demands, the geographical distribution is very unequal.  In the extreme northwestern part of the State, the normal rainfall is about 100 inches annually, while in the desert region, the normal in the southwestern portion there is practically no rain, while in the southwestern portion of the State, where such immense development has taken place, the rainfall and water supply is in short supply.  Investigations have disclosed that 37.6 per cent of the State's waters originate in the North Pacific <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The great development in the southeastern portion of the State, the demand for more and more water, made necessary and possible the construction of the Boulder Dam.  Previous to that, however, while rainfall records were available for that area since 1850, nothing was known of previous seasons' records except legends passed down by the Indian inhabitants of years of excessive rains and other years of severe drought, in addition to writings left by early explorers such as Fremont, Dana and others.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The season of 1840-41 was very dry and references appear in the records, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The above are accounts of Southern California, but General Bidwell who entered the State in 1840, locating at Chico, wrote in his old diary, "THERE HAS BEEN NO RAIN FOR EIGHTEEN MONTHS," so apparently that year drought was State wide.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Then followed a great flood in the winter of 1841-42 and this was followed by a period of subnormal rainfall which lasted for forty-one years or until 1883.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It might be of interest to note that, on December 3rd, 1929, a San Jose newspaper printed the following: "California's unprecedented drought is not unprecedented, but comes on the one hundredth anniversary of one of twenty-two months' duration between 1828 and 1830.  This is according to an old newspaper clipping in the possession of Mrs. William Chappell of San Jose.  The clipping is pasted tightly in a scrapbook picked up years ago in a deserted mining cabin in a Northern California county.  Dated 1864, the clipping refers to `the great drought of twenty-two months' duration between the rains of 1828 and those of 1830, in which so little fell that every interest in the country suffered.'  All the wells and springs of Monterey gave out during the drought and not only had the washing of the town to be done at the Carmelo River, three miles off, but the drinking water had also to be brought for the families."</P>
136.sgm:<P>The year 1919 was a very dry season; the Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Bee</HI>
136.sgm:<P>So I repeat what I stated at the beginning of this chapter, that statements "that the weather is changing" are not correct; these cycles of a series of dry years and wet years, are simply, "history repeating itself."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Since 1910, we have had a cycle of "below normal" rainfall and snowfall, but the last two winters would make it appear that the cycle is now broken and probably we are now entering into another cycle of wet years; that, however remains to be seen.  The carrying out of the State's Water Conservation Plan is the answer to future protection against some future long cycle of dry years, which without question will surely occur.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LXXXIX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>How I Lost an Opportunity to be Sent to State Prison</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN 1913, a new Grand Jury had come into existence, and one day one of the members, Mr. Ike G. Cohn, a prominent merchant who had known me from childhood, came to my office and said he wanted to have a confidential talk with me.  I suggested we talk just outside the office but he insisted that we go to the rear of the store, explaining that what he wanted to talk to me was very confidential and he had "been sworn to secrecy," and that I must treat the information he was about to give me as strictly confidential.  He certainly aroused my curiosity and I had not the slightest idea what was on his mind.  He then informed me that it was in connection with the three members of the Levee Commission, particularly myself.</P>
136.sgm:<P>He said that the Grand Jury had met that day and that the Superior Judge had appeared before them and had told them it was their duty to indict all three members of the Levee Commission because during the 1907 flood, Mr. John C. White, one of the Commission had sold a lot of shovels and lanterns, etc., and that my father and myself, the other two members of the Commission had also sold a large lot of sacks to the levee for use during that flood.  Also, that my father and myself had again, during the 1909 flood, sold a large number of sacks to the Commission, for use on the levee; that it was absolutely against the law for any of the three Commissioners to be interested in any way in the sale of such goods, etc., and demanded that the Grand Jury proceed to bring in indictments against us, particularly as it was a well known fact that we had done these things.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When Ike had finished his story, I told him I appreciated his coming to me and informing me "what was in the wind"; that I had heard "whisperings" in connection with this matter for some time, that it was about time to "shed the light of day" on such matters and bring the whole thing out in the open and that I wanted him to promise me, that he would tell the Grand Jury that they should bring in an indictment against me personally, because I had really been the one responsible and to use every effort to have an indictment found against me.  He was rather surprised at my request, but as I told him that he would be doing me a personal favor, he promised to do so.  He afterwards told me that he had done so, but the Grand Jury never took any action.  Again, when the Grand Jury for 1908-09 was appointed, the matter was again brought to the attention of this new Grand Jury, and this time, without any names being used, the <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm:<P>Later on, when I left the Commission to become a member of the State Reclamation Board, I had our Levee Commission books experted by Mr. F. E. Smith, for the full <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>"You will doubtless remember the high water of March 1907, and may also remember that all telephone and telegraph communications with upper Feather River points, were all cut off and no news of river conditions was obtainable on the evening of the 18th inst.  At about 11 o'clock that night it was presumed that the river had about reached its greatest height but about midnight, however, another very unexpected and rapid raise of the river occurred on the north levee.  Orders were hastily issued for teams and men to immediately assemble at the Ellis Company store, hardware stores were broken into and shovels and lanterns were obtained and taken to the Ellis store, where sacks were in readiness and within an hour over 150 men with supplies were on the north levee and many more followed shortly.  I did not stop to consider the matter of sending about town to see if other firms had sacks for sale; I didn't have time, in fact I never was so busy in my life as I was just then; the Ellis Company I <HI REND="italics">KNEW</HI>
136.sgm:<P>In 1909, as usual, the Ellis Company had sacks on hand for emergency purposes; the Southern Pacific Company had flood troubles before high water mark was reached at Marysville; they wanted sacks and I refused to sell them, as the following letters will show and which I obtained a few days after the flood had subsided.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville, Calif. Jan. 18th, 1909.</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE W. T. ELLIS CO.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville, Cal.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN:</P>
136.sgm:<P>This is to confirm the several conversations had with you over 'phone the last few days wherein we asked that you sell us sacks which we desired for use in protecting our embankments and note your reply each time to the effect that you felt compelled to reserve for the City levees all the sacks you had on hand and referring us to the J. R.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Yours truly,</P>
136.sgm:<P>SOUTHERN PACIFIC COMPANY</P>
136.sgm:<P>R. F. WATSON, Agent.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It then appeared that the flood might be the greatest yet experienced and that we might not have enough on hand, so I inquired about additional sacks, as the following letters will show.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville, Cal.  January 20, 1909.</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE W. T. ELLIS CO.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville, Cal.</P>
136.sgm:<P>DEAR SIRS:--</P>
136.sgm:<P>We confirm conversation had with you over 'phone yesterday to the effect that we had sold all the grain bags we had on hand to the Railroad Company with the exception of 1000 sacks and these latter bags, as per your request we will reserve for the Levee Commissioners.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Yours truly,</P>
136.sgm:<P>J. R. GARRETT CO.</P>
136.sgm:<P>By E. B. WILCOX.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville, Cal. January 20, 1909.</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE W. T. ELLIS CO.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville, Cal.</P>
136.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Regarding your order for bags, beg to advise that we have none on hand, our entire stock having been sold to the railroad company.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Very truly yours,</P>
136.sgm:<P>SPERRY FLOUR CO.</P>
136.sgm:<P>By L. S. HICKS, Manager.</P>
136.sgm:<P>We happened to have less sacks on hand ourselves than usual and that was the reason we not only declined to sell any sacks to the railroad company, but attempted to purchase some additional quantity; I wanted to play safe.  We did use a quantity of sacks on the levee that season, but not as many as in 1907, as our levees had been raised in the mean time.  What sacks we did use on the Marysville levee we did pay for from the City levee fund.  Because of the "whisperings" which had been going on after the 1907 flood, I requested the three above letters, these letters were published in the audit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The total amount of sacks which the Ellis Company sold to the Levee Commission in the three floods of 1904, 1907 and 1909, cost $974; there was possibly 10 per cent profit on these transactions; had the $974 been all profit, the services of the Levee Commissioners might have been worth that much alone for having protected the City from inundation; no doubt, some will criticize that statement.  (Criticism is the art of telling other people what to do which they themselves, are unable to do.)  I believe that public officials particularly should obey the law; I have always insisted upon that as a public official with other public officials, but when an emergency exists, which requires immediate action to protect the lives and property of citizens, I admit I have "cut red tape" and have violated the law on several occasions and would not hesitate to do the same thing over again, under similar circumstances.  I believe that to be just plain common sense, and no one would ever find me pleading "the statute of limitations" on what violations I have been possibly guilty of in the past.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XC</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>First Training Walls, Above and Below, from Daguerre Point</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE control of the flow of debris in the Yuba River was an early day problem.  In 1880 the State Legislature appropriated about $200,000 for a debris dam, largely through the efforts of W. H. Parks of Marysville, who was the Speaker of the Legislative Assembly.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The dam was constructed of earth, brush, logs, etc., across the river, its north end being at the old Dan Shay ranch, about one and a half miles southeast of the present "Seven Mile House," the south end being where the town of Marigold is situated.  This dam was built in one season and just completed before a freshet came down the river and destroyed it.  Many efforts were afterwards made to obtain both Federal and State appropriations for restraining works; many engineers and occasionally representatives of Congress would pay us visits; I would always see that they were taken up to Daguerre Point to look over the situation; at times I would take some of them down the river from Daguerre Point to Marysville by rowboats; we always furnished plenty of food and liquid refreshments; they would express their appreciation of the entertainment and be very liberal with their promises but we obtained no appropriations.  On June 28, 1901 the Rivers and Harbors Committee of Congress paid us a visit, most of them brought their wives and daughters, their expenses were paid with Federal funds.  Plans had formerly been formulated for dams across the river to hold back debris and we were endeavoring to obtain Federal approval of $400,000 to be matched <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>This work was performed by the dredger company without cost to the Federal Government, the dredger company obtaining its reimbursement and profit from the gold recoveries.  This "cut" was and always since has been a great success.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Still later on, the river area upstream from this "cut" was mined by dredgers the work <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>We were congratulating ourselves on having obtained a dredge levee, about two miles long and which closed off the main branch of the river known generally as the "Kupser channel."  This for many years had caused us lots of trouble and worry as it extended for a long distance, immediately at the base of our levee, for a distance of about three miles and the river had gradually built up its bed there until at one point, where the Browns Valley road leaves the base of the levee (about two miles east of the City limits), the bed of the river was thirteen feet higher than the farming land on the north or land side of the river.  (This is the same situation there today, but the main river channel now is about three-quarters of a mile distant to the south and in subsequent years the river has scoured to such an extent that flood waters no longer reach our old levee at this place.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>Later on we found that we had been congratulating ourselves too soon, when a succeeding flood broke this cobble training wall, which had looked to us like a "rock of ages."  The reasons for this failure and how those difficulties were taken care of, will be explained in the next chapter.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XCI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Construction of Two Parallel 750 Foot Channels Down Stream from Daguerre Point</P>
136.sgm:<P>AFTER the failure of the cobble training wall on the north side of the Yuba River channel, it became very evident to me that these dredge built training walls, while they appeared strong enough to withstand any floods, the fact remained that if flood waters did not run parallel with them, but on the contrary, if the river current flowed in an irregular manner and the current struck the walls at a sharp angle, "they would melt away like a brick of butter on a summer day."  Therefore I came to the conclusion that the only thing to do to prevent the river running "zigzag" within the 2000 feet width between these training walls, was to have that entire area dredged, the dredge to be equipped with "side stackers" so as to construct two parallel channels, in which the flood waters would be compelled to run parallel with the banks and have no opportunity to "side swipe" the walls and endanger them, these channels to be about 750 feet in width.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I took the matter up with Colonel Rand of the California Debris Commission and he disapproved of the plan; I had him come up and look over the situation on the ground but he still declined to approve; I persisted for about two years but without results.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Colonel Rand was then transferred to some other post and Major U .S. Grant III took his place on the Commission.  I then took the matter up with Major Grant; he came up and looked over the situation and immediately was "sold" on the plan but said "I throughly approve the idea but it will take a lot of money for such a big job and we have no money available for such a purpose"; I told him that all I wanted was his approval and no money; he replied, "You have the approval, now it is up to you to hustle up the money for rights of way and arrange to have the dredger company enter into an agreement with the Commission for necessary permits."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Having obtained the approval of Major Grant, I then took the matter up by letter with Mr. W. P. Hammon, representing the dredger company.  Under date of July 7, 1922, Mr. Hammon replied, stating in his letter that "the proposition as it has been presented to us thus far does not appeal to us very strongly"--"it will be necessary for you to obtain all necessary rights of way, in addition to long term options on some of the lands further down stream, etc., before we would care to go into this matter further"--"in other words, Mr. Ellis, when you have all necessary rights of way, options, etc., covering the tentative proposition for river improvements, etc., then and not until then, will we go into this matter fully with you."</P>
136.sgm:<P>This put me up against rather a difficult proposition and for some months, I was carrying on negotiations between the California Debris Commission and Mr. Hammon but finally an agreement was arrived at.  This agreement between the dredger company and the California Debris Commission was consummated in December 1922; in the meantime, I had obtained agreements from the several private property owners to purchase their holdings in the river channel; it was practically worthless land, being almost entirely sand and gravel but nevertheless I had to "pass the hat" and obtained the necessary money for same, amounting to about $40,000 while the California Debris Commission finally agreed to contribute some $40,000 towards the work.  It took a lot of time and complicated negotiations before everything was arranged for and a dredge started on this work.  In 1924 construction of these two channels was commenced taking about nine years to complete.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The first real test was in 1928 when the flood occurred; only the north channel being completed at that time, the dredge being at work on the south channel which was blocked on its upper end.  This 1928 flood, which was a maximum one, discharged 140,000 second feet of water through this north 750 foot channel, doing no damage to the side walls because the flood was confined and compelled to flow parallel with the side wall cobble banks.  Upon completion of the agreements for the doing of this work, just mentioned, I received the following letters:</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>San Francisco, Calif., December 13, 1922.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mr. W. T. Ellis,</P>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville, Cal.</P>
136.sgm:<P>DEAR MR. ELLIS:</P>
136.sgm:<P>We are in receipt of your letter of the 12th instant in which you state that we are in no ways indebted to you for the work which you have done in the acquisition of deeds and options to the various property in the Yuba River bottom west of Daguerre Point.  We fully realize the amount of work you have done and the time you have devoted to carrying out this project, and the attitude you take is both public spirited and generous.  We, for ourselves, cannot thank you too much and we believe Major Grant not only fully appreciates all you have done, but will agree with us that the negotiations which you have so successfully carried through could not have been accomplished by any one else, and we know that Mr. Hammon will want to express to you his thanks at the first opportunity.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Very truly yours,</P>
136.sgm:<P>HAMMON ENGINEERING COMPANY,</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mines Operating Dept.</P>
136.sgm:<P>By CHAS. W. GARDNER.</P>
136.sgm:<P>San Francisco, Cal., January 30, 1923.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. W. T. ELLIS,</P>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville, Cal.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MY DEAR MR. ELLIS:<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Subject: Acquisition of property rights for the South Training Wall, Yuba River.</HI>
136.sgm:<P>1.  Your letter of January 25, 1923, seems to be the final proof that you are quite a wizard in arranging things and I am very much obliged to you for your cooperation and help in obtaining the rights of way and easements necessary for us to insure the ultimate construction of the South Training Wall in the Yuba River.</P>
136.sgm:<P>2.  Immediately upon receiving your letter I tried to get into telephone communication with the Hammon Engineering Company and after some little delay, was finally assured by Mr. Gardner that the Kupser property option was being taken up yesterday, Monday.  This information I included in my telegram last night.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Yours truly.</P>
136.sgm:<P>U.S. GRANT, 3RD,</P>
136.sgm:<P>Major, Corps of Engineers,</P>
136.sgm:<P>District Engineer.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XCII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Benefits of Dredge Mining on Yuba River</P>
136.sgm:<P>DREDGE MINING on the Yuba River commenced in 1904.  The first boats mined about sixty feet deep, but they now have one which mines about one hundred and thirty feet deep.  This is the largest in the world.  The altitude where this boat is dredging is approximately one hundred feet above sea level, so this dredge is digging about thirty feet below sea level and from borings which have been made, the gravel is still at a greater depth.  In fact, tests disclose one hundred and eighty feet of gravel, how much more is unknown.  There is a probability that all the dredged area will be redredged, in fact a considerable area has and is being re-dredged, the advanced price of gold being a contributing factor.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When these dredging operations commenced and had been in progress for some time, our citizens, because of past experiences with hydraulic mining, were still "anti-mining minded" and discussions arose as to whether these dredgers would in their digging operations, loosen up a lot of material which would be brought down the river and deposited and still further raise the river bed at Marysville which had been steadily raising for many years as shown by the cross-sections which I had been having made each year.  At first I had the same thought in mind but I was constantly visiting the boats, watching their operations and ascertaining what their plans were and came to the conclusion that these operations would not have the effect of assisting the river to move greater amounts of debris down the river but that, on the contrary, they would be able eventually to impound perpetually the greater portion of the three hundred millions of mining debris, which the Government reports showed was in the river overflow area between Marysville and Daguerre Point.</P>
136.sgm:<P>These murmurings on the part of many of our citizens finally culminated in a call for a mass meeting of citizens to consider the matter and at that meeting, some of the more rabid citizens demanded that a resolution be passed condemning dredge mining and that legal steps be taken by the Anti-Debris Association to stop this type of mining, etc.  I was sitting in the rear of the hall, taking no part in the proceedings but was finally called on, which I had been rather expecting.  There were about two hundred citizens present and my first words were, "How many in this audience have actually been up and viewed these dredge operations, those who have, please hold up their hands."  There were about ten hands raised; I then asked those who had raised their hands to get up, each in turn, and explain just what the dredgers were doing; several attempted to explain but it was quite evident they did not know exactly what was being done.  I then stated that I had made many personal observations and had come to the conclusion that this mining was going to be beneficial and not detrimental and suggested, that as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Since that time, there have been sporadic attempts made in the Legislature to curb or prevent this type of mining but never with any success.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A Sacramento newspaper, had for a number of years, from time to time, contained editorials against dredge mining and finally on December 21, 1936, instructed their local representative to call on the County Assesor to ascertain what amount of assessed valuation and taxes had been lost in Yuba County because of this mining, how many acres had been dredged and what percentage of these lands had been suitable for grain, fruit, grazing, etc., etc.  The County Assessor, Mr. J. U. Pearson, called me into consultation and together we dug up all the information we could obtain which was then formulated into a letter, which Mr. Pearson addressed to this Sacramento paper as a reply.</P>
136.sgm:<P>It was shown that during the past thirty odd years of dredge mining on the Yuba River that approximately nine square miles had been dredged out of the 630 square miles in the County.</P>
136.sgm:<P>That when dredging had commenced, the greater portion of this area had been "waste" lands, covered with mining debris, the balance being "marginal" lands, fit only for grazing principally.</P>
136.sgm:<P>That previous to dredge operations, the old assessment rolls showed that the greater portion of this area had been assessed at about ten dollars per acre.</P>
136.sgm:<P>That as a result of dredge mining with the resultant concentration of the river in one main channel, that this main channel had scoured about twenty feet, and that a very large area of debris covered lands, thickly grown up with brush and timber, was kept from overflow at flood periods with the result that these large areas had been cleared of brush and trees by the owners, placed in cultivable condition, orchards, vineyards, alfalfa and other crops were now being raised on these lands and the old assessment had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>That as a result, in place of there being reduced assessments and loss of taxes in Yuba County because of dredge mining, there had been an actual increase of about $400,000 in the assessment roll and a corresponding increase in taxes received.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Also, as result of these mining operations, that during the last 32 years of operations, over $10,000,000 had been expended in wages besides and expenditure of some $12,000,000 for capital investment, which also included a large proportion of labor.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This Sacramento paper then had a representative sent up from Sacramento to check up on this letter; he was shown all over the situation and returned satisfied and presumably so reported to his newspaper as nothing more has been heard from them.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The fact is, that dredge mining on the Yuba River, resulted in very efficient debris control; it also resulted in safe flood control to the levees on both banks of the Yuba River, from Hammonton westerly to Marysville, in fact, it made obsolete, about five miles of the easterly Marysville levees and a similar length of levee on the south bank of the Yuba River.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XCIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Right of Way Agent for Western Pacific Railroad</P>
136.sgm:<P>WHEN the Western Pacific ran surveys for their railroad, they had two tentative plans with two different surveys north of Marysville.  One survey was for a line where the road is now constructed; the other was more to the west.  Both plans, however, were with the idea of having the railroad run north and south through Marysville on F Street.  This latter was objectionable to the public and I went to San Francisco to consult with the railroad official who was in full charge at that time.  It was pointed out to him that the easterly survey north of town would be beneficial in reclaiming more lands north of the City, if they constructed an earth embankment (which they would in any event have to do to keep out of floods) and that it could form a back levee and that the land owners to the west would probably form a reclamation district and build up other levees to the north, west and south, enclosing some 10,000 acres; that in the past, these land owners had constructed a poor system of levees on the east bank of the Feather River but had no protection from the rear, and that, if the railroad company would co-operate, that probably the east survey for a right of way could be obtained at very reasonable prices from the respective land owners.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I also pointed out the objections of the public to having the railroad bisect the town on F Street, that I was President of the Levee Commission and could use my influence to get them a free right of way on the top of our westerly and north levees in return for a guarantee for maintenance for fifty years.  This resulted in conferences in Marysville; and finally agreements were executed between the railroad company, the Mayor and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I made it my business to get acquainted with Mr. Bogue, reviewed the situation about the two surveys north of town and this resulted in an offer to appoint me right of way agent for Yuba County.  I accepted the position, as I felt that I could be of assistance to them and obtain some favors for the City and the Levee Commission in return.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In answer to my question as to just how I was to proceed, Mr. Bogue stated that his engineers would give me the legal descriptions of the rights of way wanted over various private property and that I was to make my own agreements about prices to be paid to the owners of said property; and, when such agreements were made, their local attorney, W. H. Carlin, would draw up the deeds and have them properly executed; then I was to pay the owner with a draft drawn on the Treasurer of the Company in San Francisco, and it would be honored.  I then asked him about what price he would expect to pay per acre plus any severances or damages.  He replied, "We will expect you to get these rights of way as cheaply as you can and will leave the matter of price to your own good judgment and, if you succeed in getting all these rights of way for an average price of one hundred dollars per acre, we will be mighty well pleased."  I told him that was all I wanted to know.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I was busy with the store those days and could work on this new job only at odd times, mostly Sundays.  It took me several months but, when I had finished the job, I had obtained the rights of way through Yuba County for an average of $42 per acre, and Mr. Bogue was immensely pleased.  He then wanted me to buy their rights of way through the City of Sacramento, but I informed him that I could not spare the time from my private business.  He had been paying me $150 per month for my services and told me I could name my own salary if I would tackle the Sacramento rights of way; but I told him that, while I had perhaps been able to make a record in Yuba County where I was personally well acquainted with the land owners, I surely could not be so successful elsewhere.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I really had an interesting time buying these rights of way through Yuba County.  The automobile was then a new thing, there were only about a half dozen in Marysville and many people had never seen one.  There was only one in town for hire.  This was a small Oldsmobile, with one seat, a dashboard in front and a small open box in the rear; it was guided with a long stick as a handle; I believe it had one cylinder, and it sneezed and coughed like a consumptive, but could travel at the high speed of twenty-five miles per hour.  The owner did the driving and charged me $20 per day.  It saved me time, however, over a horse and buggy and was of material assistance in getting rights of way.  When I called on some ranch owner with this machine to talk right of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>A few years afterwards, I was calling on the Western Pacific office in San Francisco and one of the officials reminded me of my expense accounts with the charge of $20 a day for an automobile and said that when several of these charges had come through, an auditor had complained of my extravagance, that I could have hired a horse and buggy for $5 a day, that he had mentioned the matter to Mr. Bogue who had remarked, "Hell!  Leave him alone.  See what he is getting those rights of way for us for."</P>
136.sgm:<P>North of town, by making promises that the railroad would be on a high earth embankment, which could act as a back levee, I obtained several miles of right of way for only the nominal sum of $10 per deed.  This back levee being furnished, induced the land owners to form what is now known as Reclamation District No. 10.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the railroad company had obtained their franchise on the levee, they planned to follow on top of the Yuba River levee to the foot of about B Street and then have a bridge across the Yuba River, quite close to the Southern Pacific bridge, the passenger station to be on top of the levee at the foot of E Street, and franchise was granted them under that plan.  We soon realized that we had made a mistake, that this passenger and freight depot, being so close to the D Street bridge, the bridge would at times be blocked by standing trains to the great inconvenience of traveling public.  In the meantime, the freight building had been constructed (now occupied by the Marysville Fuel Co.), so we had meetings with the Mayor and Council and the suggestion was made that a passenger and freight depot be erected on top of the levee at 5th and K Streets, so that it would be convenient to both Yuba City and Marysville.  The company's officials were not in a very receptive mood but they finally agreed when I suggested that the City give them, free of charge, quite a large area on the south side of Third Street, between Orange and J Streets, which could be used for future side tracks, etc.  This area I had purchased when I was Mayor from Chas. Covillaud, Jr., for the sum of $200 and had then resold it to the City for the same amount; but when I sold it to the City, I had placed a reservation in the deed to the effect that it was to be used for the sole purpose of furnishing material to the citizens free of charge so that they could obtain material for filling in their slough lots, which work was then under way, and, if the area was used for any other purpose, it would revert back to me.  This difficulty was overcome, however, by the City deeding the area back to me and I, in turn, deeding same to the Western Pacific without any consideration.  This area is now where the Ball Grounds are situated with the permission of the railroad company.  My employment with the Western Pacific Co. lasted about twelve months.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XCIV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>State Reclamation Board</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE FIRST two years on the Reclamation Board were rather hectic; many complicated problems came before the Board for solution, and decisions, after hearings held before the Board, had to be rendered.  The Board's powers were limited, being confined in effect to passing upon reclamation plans with the purpose of preventing construction of levees which would interfere with the flood control project.  Many applications for reclamation were received, hearings held and in almost every case, there was a division of ideas on the part of the interested land owners; each side would be represented by lawyers and engineers and these hearings became quite animated at times and very considerable feelings manifested.  The Board would take such applications under consideration and when so considered by the Board members, at times there was also a divergence of opinion between the Board members themselves which resulted in very animated arguments and final decisions were not always unanimous.</P>
136.sgm:<P>One of the problems which came to the Board at that time was the location of the Sutter By-pass in the application of the Armour interests for the reclamation of about 40,000 acres of the Sutter Basin.  The original plans for the by-pass provided that this by-pass follow the trough of the basin, extending southerly through the center of the proposed reclaimed area, making for two reclamation districts, on the east and west sides of the proposed by-pass; application was made before the Board under this plan and was taken under consideration and was being considered favorably but when the Board was ready to take favorable action at the following meeting, the application was withdrawn and was followed by a new application, which called for a shift of the by-pass from the original central location, to a new easterly location so as to permit of there being one large reclamation district in place of two divided reclamation districts.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When finally a hearing was held on this new plan, the land owners in Reclamation District No. 1, of Sutter County, an old established reclamation district, immediately made strenuous objections to the plan and "the war was on" in earnest.  The three Board members, feeling that they were more or less a judicial body, listened to both sides, expressing no opinions but endeavoring to bring out full information, in fact, the three Board members themselves did not commit themselves as between each other.  When the matter finally came up before the Board to make a decision, the vote disclosed that Mr. McClatchy and Mr. Cook were in favor of the change while I voted against the change in the by-pass location.  I had previously prepared a long written argument, giving my reasons for my opposition to the application, which was afterwards printed in a booklet and circulated quite extensively.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As a result of the Board's action, suits were commenced to prevent the newly adopted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>It was a mighty interesting fight; at joint meetings of the two houses of the Legislature, to listen to the arguments from both sides, the Assembly Chamber would be crowded with spectators, but each time, it was quite apparent that the legislators, after listening to the arguments, pro and con, were "all at sea" and did not understand the problem any better after these hearings than they did before they were held.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I doubt if there ever was a controversy before the Legislature which was so confusing to the average layman as this Sutter By-pass fight; at the same time it attracted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>When a general heavy storm occurs on all the watersheds of all those rivers, it takes about ten hours for the American River to reach its crest at Sacramento and that City is within the tidal prism; again, the Sacramento River under the M Street bridge has a capacity of only some 110,000 second feet, while the American River has a discharge of about 140,000 second feet, and to care for this anomalous situation, the Reclamation Board had constructed, about four miles upstream from Sacramento, at Bryte's Bend, the Sacramento By-pass, with weir and gates, so that the excess waters from the American could "run upstream" four miles and then be discharged into the Yolo Basin and relieve the pressure against the levees at Sacramento.  In 1928, the American was in full flood, the apex reached Sacramento in about ten hours and touched highest water mark; they got excited and opened the gates at the Bryte's Bend weir, but the river did not fall, it simply "slowed up" the rise in the river and, remember, that it took another two days about for the waters of the Bear, Yuba and Feather rivers to reach that point and still another additional two days for the Sacramento River waters also to reach there.  Had there been a second storm, say six or seven days after the first storm, on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>During the ten years I was on the Reclamation Board, we had many very animated arguments over many complicated problems which came before the Board to be solved; these arguments were generally between McClatchy, Cook, Atherton and myself as the others had but little first-hand practical knowledge of conditions generally, but they "held the balance of power," when it came to voting.</P>
136.sgm:<P>They made several engineering errors of judgment, which I failed to prevent but which some future flood will demonstrate; at least, that is my firm opinion.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XCV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Congressman Kent's Public Hearing at Marysville, November 9th, 1915</P>
136.sgm:<P>CONGRESSMAN KENT being considerably confused by the reports he received, pro and con on the proper location of the Sutter By-Pass controversy, he arranged for a meeting to obtain information.  The following is a copy of the "corrected" stenographic notes taken at this meeting, all of which was afterward published in pamphlet form and distributed by Mr. Kent:</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. KENT: On request of persons interested, I came to Marysville to look into the question of the changing of the location of the Sutter By-Pass project.  I requested Mr. Dockweiler, a resident of San Francisco, and another engineer, Mr. O'Shaughnessy, to come with me; the latter found it impossible to be on hand.  I wish to introduce Mr. Dockweiler.  Mr. Dockweiler, kindly state your name, occupation, etc.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: My name is J. H. Dockweiler; I am a resident of San Francisco and have been for the past 12 years serving as engineer to the City Attorney, Mr. Percy E. Long, of the City of San Francisco, on matters of water supply, and for 9 years I have been Consulting Engineer to the City Council of Oakland on water supply and matters connected therewith.  For several years, in the capacity of Civil Engineer, I have been connected with various water supply and irrigation projects of the City of Los Angeles and vicinity.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. KENT: I think that the best way that we could get into this matter would be for Mr. W. T. Ellis, who is a member of the State Reclamation Board, to make a general statement regarding the by-pass situation and then, after Mr. Ellis has finished, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm: interested in reclamation but was only interested in the navigation features; at the same time, however, Major Cheney called attention to the greater flood heights which would ensue in the Eastern location over what could be expected in the Central location.  While Major <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>MR. KENT: Mr. Ellis, did you ever make any reports and arguments which would sustain your position as favoring the Central location of the by-pass in the Sutter Basin?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: I did, and they were published in pamphlet form, with a report of Engineers J. C. Boyd and Otto Von Geldern, also favoring the location of the by-pass in the Central location.  These pamphlets (there are three of them) I have with me and am now pleased to give them to you.  These reports give, in detail the many reasons why the "Central location" is preferable to the "Eastern location" and they will speak for themselves.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. KENT: I would like to ask, was there ever an application for reclamation of the Sutter Basin, based on the Central location of the by-pass as originally planned?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: Yes sir, there was.  This application was made on September 4, 1912, to the Reclamation Board by J. P. Snook and Granville Moore for a Reclamation District of 35,000 acres lying between the Central location of the by-pass and the Feather River, with a request to ensmall the Feather River overflow channel to 1250 feet.  Further hearing of this application was had on September 24, 1912, at which time Mr. W. E. Gerber and others were also present and were favoring the application.  At another hearing before the Reclamation Board on September 29, 1912, on this same application, Major S. A. Cheney, of the California Debris Commission, made a report under date of October 2, 1912, and therein called attention to the fact that the proposed reclamation encroached upon the Central by-pass location, some 300 yards; so, adding about 1300 acres to the reclamation.  Major Cheney's comments in his report are as follows: "The lines as laid down in the flood control project are better for the following reasons: 1st, they follow more closely the trough of the basin.  2nd, they will cause no choke at the crossing of the S.P. Co.'s tracks.  3rd, they divide the acreage of the Sutter Basin more equally, etc.  It is considered that the flood plane elevations of the flood control project <HI REND="italics">are as high</HI>
136.sgm:<P>From this you will see that Major Cheney also favored following the line of policy originally laid down by Captain Jackson when he formulated the by-pass plan and which contemplated the by-passes following the natural troughs of the various basins.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. KENT: At the time this application was being made for permission to reclaim on the lines of the Central location of the by-pass, was it understood that these lands on the Eastern side of the by-pass had been purchased and were owned by the applicants?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: No, not at the time the first application for reclamation was asked for, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I call attention to these matters so that you may know that the Gerber-Armour interests were investing their money in these lands with the idea that the Central location of the by-pass would be followed; and while this location has since been shifted to the Eastern location and some work has been done by them along this latter line, still, if a decision of the suits now in the Courts should be to the effect that the Eastern location would have to be abandoned and the Central location again adopted, then the parties owning these lands would only be carrying out plans which they originally expected and desired to do.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: Is it not a fact, however, Mr. Ellis, that already a very large amount of levee work has been performed on the Eastern location of the by-pass idea and that a very expensive pumping plant has been constructed on Sacramento slough near the southerly end of this district and in the center of what would have been the Central location of the by-pass, and that if the present adopted plans should again be changed and the Eastern location abandoned and the Central location be again adopted, this expensive pumping plant would have to be abandoned and also, the greater portion of the levee now constructed on the easterly or Feather River side of District 1500?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: Such arguments have been made by those interested, but for a fact the financial loss would be quite small, as the present pumping plant could be made use of; also the greater portion of the present partially constructed levees.  Right here I desire to call attention to the fact that this pumping plant was built at large expense, directly in the middle of what would have been the Central location of the by-pass and certainly several years prior to the time when any possible use could have been made of it.  One can form his own conclusions as to their reasons for having done this.  This pumping plant and practically the greater portion of No. 1500's levee system was built, however, <HI REND="italics">after</HI>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: You have just stated that if the Central location for the by-pass was again adopted, that the pumping plant and also the greater portion of the present partially constructed levees could be made use of; now how could this be done?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: I have here a small map of that portion of Sutter County showing District No. 1500 and adjacent sections.  I have marked thereon two heavy black lines showing a location for the Central by-pass, and which location follows closely the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: You have suggested a possible solution to save the present pumping plant, but how about the levee work which has been thus far performed on the line of the Eastern by-pass location?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: Every foot of these levees could be made use of except that portion which has been constructed in what would be the mouth of the location which I have suggested for the Central location of the by-pass.  You will note from the small map that the Eastern levee of the by-pass on that location would intercept the present constructed levee (which starts at about Wild Irishman Bend and extends northeasterly), at about the East side of Section 20, while the easterly levee of the suggested by-pass location would intercept the present constructed levee at or near the center of Section 5.  Between these two points there would be about three miles of levee which would have to be abandoned; and I have been informed that this stretch of levee is now about 15 feet high and with the natural slopes and crown which are usual with this type of partially constructed "clam shell" built embankment.  The probable cost of constructing this stretch of levee (construction overhead, etc.) may have been say, 15c per cubic yard.  From this you may form a rough idea of what the cost of this strip of levee might be.</P>
136.sgm:<P>On the northerly side of the District, on the line of the Tisdale By-pass, some small amount of work was performed across the area which would lie within the suggested Central by-pass location; but this was insignificant, as this would lie in the natural trough of the basin, and this is where Sutter County asked for and obtained an injunction in the Courts against any levee work being done.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As for that portion of the levee commencing at about Section 5 (at the South end of the Eastern levee of the suggested by-pass), and which follows parallel to and about 6000 feet distant from Feather River to Nelson Slough, this stretch of levee would be necessary under either the Central or Eastern locations of the by-pass; the only difference being, that if the former location had been adopted, then this levee could have been constructed about 2500 feet nearer the Feather River and so saved that extra strip for reclamation, and reduced the unit cost per acre; but all of this present 6000-foot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I understand that all the area in this 6000 width of overflow channel belongs to the Sutter Basin Company (owners of the greater portion of District No. 1500), and that the greater portion of this land cost them about $30 per acre.  This land being required for overflow channel by the Flood Control plan, will have to be acquired by the Reclamation Board; that is, flowage rights will have to be secured and the Board will, without doubt, be willing to pay the sum of $20 per acre for such flowage rights.  In this connection I might state that the Board now has an option for flowage rights at this figure for the greater portion of the land in the Eastern location of the by-pass area (extending from Nelson Slough to the South levee of District No.1), from the Sutter Basin Company, provided the by-pass be eventually constructed on that location; and provided further, that no higher price be voluntarily paid by the Board to other parties for land in that section, similarly situated, etc.</P>
136.sgm:<P>So much for the levee as far as Nelson Slough.  As for the levee from that point to its present constructed limit at District No. 1, in case the Central location of the by-pass is adopted as suggested above, then District No. 1500 would have two ways to finish its East side reclamation.  One way would be to cross the mouth of the Eastern location of the by-pass at Nelson Slough (with a continuation of the stretch of the levee on the West side of the Feather River), and connect with the present constructed levee which extends from the Southwest corner of District No. 803 northerly, following the westerly side of Feather River, up to and beyond Yuba City.  In this case, then the reclamation on the East side of the Central by-pass would have to depend upon the stability of all the levees on the Feather River north of Nelson Bend for protection, but would have no supervision over those levees, and would have to depend upon the general supervision of the Reclamation Board to see that proper heights, care and attention were given these levees by the various District Managers.  I might state here, that District No. 1 has been raising and strengthening all of its Feather River levees to conform with the standard required by the Reclamation Board.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Assuming that District No. 1500 did complete its plans on this line, then the present incomplete levee and borrow pit could be used to divert the drainage waters of Yuba City (sometimes called Gilsizer Slough), to the Feather River by gravity, through a discharge pipe which could be constructed under the levee; which, as previously described, would cross at Nelson Slough to connect with the Southwest corner of District No. 803.  Such diversion of drainage could be accomplished at such times as there were no flood waters in the Feather River and so save pumping, which would have to be done when the Feather was in flood; and then the drainage from Yuba City slough would have to flow (as it always has in the past) into the basin area.  In this way the present work of partial levee construction from Nelson Slough to District No. 1 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: In that case then, this drainage from the southerly end of District No. 1, and in fact up to, and beyond Yuba City, would discharge into the reclamation area which lies East of the suggested Central location of the by-pass when the rivers were at flood stages and this would have to be pumped from that area, would it not?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: There would be two ways to handle this drainage: one would be by the construction of another pumping plant at the Southwest corner of this reclaimed area and where the drainage would naturally collect, or, this drainage could be diverted by means of a pipe under and across the by-pass area, and be discharged into the reclaimed area of the West side of the Central by-pass; and from there, be diverted southerly to the present pumping plant, which would then be on that side of the by-pass.  I am informed that this pumping plant was designed to have sufficient capacity to take care of the drainage of the entire area of District No. 1500, and, if so, then it could care for the drainage of both reclamations on opposite sides of the Central by-pass.  No matter whether the by-pass is constructed on either the Central or the Eastern location, this drainage will, at certain seasons, always have to be pumped; but the handling of this drainage under the Central location will be less complicated and require a less number of pumping plants than it would if the Eastern location be adopted.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: I have here a copy of Flood Control Report No. 22, of the State Reclamation Board, and on page 4 of this report, it states that there were eight reasons advanced for fixing the by-pass on the Eastern location.  The first reason advanced is as follows: "First, lessening the length and height of levees by following the margin of the basin and joining with the Feather River overflow channel at Nelson Bend; from which point on, one levee takes the place of three levees instead of making separate channels and running the by-pass through the entire length of the lowest part of the basin, the bottom of which is more than 10 feet lower than its outlet over Fremont Weir."  What have you to say to that?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: There is no doubt but what there is more length of levees in the Central than in the Eastern location, for the by-pass, as stated in that report.  In planning for flood control, however, a thorough study is, of course, required, and possibly more than one plan can be advanced for consideration; then should come into consideration, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: The second reason given for change in location of by-pass in Flood Control report No. 22 was, "lessening the danger from breaks from saturation of levees caused by water standing at considerable depth for a long time, as would be the case in the Central location."</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: In view of the fact that flood waters in the Sutter Basin rise and fall quite speedily, this is not as important as it might appear.  Again, I would refer you to page 5, line 23, of the Flood Control report No. 22, which you have, and you will note the following: "Average depth of water against West levee of Sutter By-pass on Eastern location will be 18.5 ft. as against 20.0 ft. on the Central location."  This would be a difference of only 18 inches in favor of the Eastern location, and which would be inconsiderable as regards saturation.  You will note that either of these two mentioned levees would be the levees of District No. 1500, whether the Eastern or the Central location of the by-pass were adopted.  If you will refer to the pamphlet which I have given you and relative to the deposit of silt in the Sutter Basin of recent years (see page 11), you will note that the disposal of silt is going to be quite a problem in the flood control plan.  In the Eastern location of the by-pass there is not a single inch of fall in ground level from the mouth of the Tisdale By-pass to Fremont Weir, a distance of about 20 miles; all the ground level in that entire area being approximately 30.  In the Central location of the by-pass, and between these same points, almost the entire length is below the 30-foot contour, and there is a stretch of several miles which does not exceed the 20-foot contour elevation.  Here, then, is a settling basin for the silt to deposit in and all those engineers who have had any practical experience in that section agree that with the subsidence of each flood there will be deposit of silt.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The Eastern location of the by-pass has no such similar depression to take care of for a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:time at least, of such silt deposit.  Assuming that such deposit <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: The third reason given in Flood Control Report is as follows: "The conservation of lands by placing the by-pass on higher ground which will drain early enough to secure summer cropping."</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: This is a very frank acknowledgment that the by-pass was shifted from the natural trough of the basin to "higher ground," thereby raising the flood plane and violating the basic principle of the flood control plan.  The answer to this reason, however, would be, that for the reasons just advanced regarding silt deposit, the land in the Central location will propably be equally as high in a short time as the land is now in the Eastern location.  Until this time arrives, however, the entire area in the Central location of the by-pass can be cropped to as good advantage as the land in the Eastern location.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. KENT: How do you come to that conclusion when you have just stated that the land in the Central location is, for a considerable distance, about 10 feet lower than the Eastern location area?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: Here is a table taken from Flood Control Report No. 10 giving elevations of water surface at <HI REND="italics">mouth of Feather River</HI>
136.sgm:<P>YEAR<HSEP>MAY 1ST<HSEP>JUNE 1ST<HSEP>JULY 1ST</P>
136.sgm:<P>1907<HSEP> 31.4<HSEP>    29.3<HSEP>    26.3</P>
136.sgm:<P>1908<HSEP> 25.8<HSEP>    24.1<HSEP>    19.6</P>
136.sgm:<P>1909<HSEP> 29.9<HSEP>    27.1<HSEP>    23.2</P>
136.sgm:<P>1910<HSEP> 27.5<HSEP>    21.0<HSEP>    17.8</P>
136.sgm:<P>1911<HSEP> 30.6<HSEP>    28.9<HSEP>    24.1</P>
136.sgm:<P>1912<HSEP> 22.5<HSEP>    26.5<HSEP>    17.1</P>
136.sgm:<P>The northerly bank of the Sacramento River, in the line of what would be the southerly end of the Central location of the by-pass, is practically elevation 30; which means that all this bank is above the water surface of the river, and the water standing in the basin to the North has, in the past, practically kept level with the river through its natural drainage channel known as Sacramento Slough.  If the levees on the Central location are constructed on the lines which I have suggested, then Sacramento Slough would be cut off a short distance from the present constructed pumping plant by the West levee of the by-pass.  Where this occurs a large and substantial pipe with controlling gates, should be installed under the levee to permit of drainage of the low portion of the by-pass area, the borrow pit of the West levee making an excellent drainage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>This area described above as being at about the 20-ft. contour, consists of what is called in the Government Soil reports "Sacramento clay," and an overflow each season in this by-pass, with the resulting deposit of sediment from the Sacramento River overflow, will greatly increase the value and productiveness of this area.  There is no doubt but what the deposits of silt in this location of the by-pass will eventually be had by gravity in place of by pumping after the months of May or June of each year.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: The fourth reason given is, that "A more uniform velocity to prevent destruction of the cultivability of the land by scouring, which we believe would take place in the upper portion of the Central location and which would cause a deposit in the lower portion of the by-pass which would necessitate a raise in the already excessively high levees."</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: If "a more uniform velocity" is to be obtained at the expense of a higher water plane of about three feet at the latitude of Tisdale Weir, thereby decreasing the efficiency of the discharge of the Tisdale By-pass and also increasing the dangers in many ways from the added increase in height of the theoretical water plane, and which Major Cheney, in his report I have given you, states, is already sufficiently high, then I would prefer a less "uniform velocity," particularly in view of the fact that any silt which may come down from either scour in the by-pass lines above, or still further North from the river itself, there is a "silting basin" already provided for in the Central location, while there is none in the Eastern location.  Again, this "silting basin" in the Central location will take care of the silt for several years, and there will be no necessity for raising the "excessively high levees" (they average only 18 inches higher than the West levee of the Eastern location, as I have previously shown you) until such time as this "silting basin" is entirely filled to the 30-foot contour.  If, on the other hand, there should be a silt deposit the first flood season, of say 6 inches in the Eastern by-pass area, then, theoretically, the following season these levees would have to be raised 6 inches.  At the latitude of Tisdale Weir the levees in the Eastern location of the by-pass will have to be approximately 3 feet higher than in the Central location (on account of the higher water plane), so there are <HI REND="italics">unnecessarily</HI>
136.sgm: "excessively high" levees in the <HI REND="italics">Eastern</HI>
136.sgm: location of the by-pass <HI REND="italics">also</HI>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: The fifth reason given for change in by-pass location is "the placing of the by-pass upon poorer quality of soil."</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: In my opinion this statement would be correct for that portion of the Eastern by-pass which lies north of the latitude of Tisdale By-pass, but it is largely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>MR. VON GELDERN: I think your statement is quite correct.  The soil in the Central location of the by-pass above Tisdale By-pass has several feet of rich alluvial deposit on it from the overflow from the Sacramento River, and this deposit never reached as far east as the Eastern location of the by-pass.  South of Tisdale By-pass, however, the situation is practically reversed, the greater portion of the area in the Central location being "Sacramento clay," while the lower portion of the Eastern by-pass and its extension, the Feather River overflow channel, is silt deposit from the latter river.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: How about the cost of construction of the two by-passes, the sixth reason for the change of location being "less cost of construction?"</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: The original estimate of the cost of constructing levees by the Engineers was seven cents per cubic yard for the Central location, and eight and one-half cents for the Eastern location.  My estimate on this work at that time, for the Eastern location, was 11 cents (see page 7 in pamphlet containing Argument against change of by-pass location).  Mr. George Randle, Engineer for District No. 1500, has advised me recently that the work which they have been doing on the Eastern by-pass levee thus far has been costing, including overhead expenses, 15 cents per cubic yard or more than twice the original estimate.  On the other hand, he has also advised me that the drainage ditch, which they have about completed in the trough of the basin, and which you inspected on the trip we took there by automobile today, is costing ten cents per cubic yard, without any overhead expense.  The machine which is doing this latter work is a small floating steam shovel.  Probably a clam shell dredge of large capacity (such as they are working on the East by-pass levee) would handle this material considerably cheaper.  It might be possible that "shooting" the underlying hardpan might be necessary, same as they have had to do almost everywhere on the Eastern by-pass levee, as you saw today; and if so, it would be an added expense.  From what has been accomplished thus far in this work, am disposed to think that the material could be handled much cheaper and easier on the Central than on the Eastern location.  The original plan of the engineers called for a levee with 10-foot crown, with slopes of 2 to 1 on land and 3 to 1 on water side.  At my suggestion the slopes were reversed and plans changed to call for revetment on the water side, on portions of the levee.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: What portions?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: The Flood Control Engineer found, upon investigation, that when storms are prevailing and floods occur, the prevailing wind is almost invariably from the Southeast in that section.  He therefore provided, in his amended plans, that all portions of the East levee of the Eastern location of the by-pass, which ran parallel with the usual direction of the wind, be not protected with revetment but that all other portions, where the levee would be "angling" with the southeasterly winds, same be protected with cobble or or artificial concrete block construction, or some other suitable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:protection, to be approved by the State Reclamation Board.  If you will look at page 12 of Flood Control Report No. 22 you will note that this estimate for revetment amounts to $446,978.70 for the East levee of the East location of the by-pass, and $656,965.06 for all the West levees, making a total (after adding 10 per cent for engineering and incidentals) of $1,213,348.14.  Now, if the reason given by the engineer for not reveting those stretches of the levee which run parallel with the direction of the prevailing winds is a good one, then he should estimate the estimated cost of revetment on the two levees of the by-pass in the Central location (and which, on page 17, he estimates will amount to $1,434,858.60), because the <HI REND="italics">entire length of the Central location of the by-pass is also parallel with the direction of the prevailing</HI>
136.sgm: winds and <HI REND="italics">exactly parallel</HI>
136.sgm: with the section of the East levee of the East location of the by-pass upon which he proposes to eliminate revetments.  In addition to this, a less unit cost per cubic yard should be made for constructing the levees of the Central location than in the Eastern location.  With these changes the cost of constructing the Central location levees will be <HI REND="italics">less</HI>
136.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: The seventh reason given is that there will be "less seepage, due to less depth of water pressure."</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: I think I have answered this in previous statements wherein I called attention to the fact that the difference in average height of the levees on either location, and which would act as levees of District No. 1500, is only 18 inches and that a good portion of this will probably be eliminated when the silt has filled the low basin area in the Central location.  I might, however, call attention to the fact that the depth of water against the present South levee of District No. 1 is now about 10 feet; but that if the Eastern location of the by-pass is adopted, the depth of water against what will then be their South levee will be about 20 feet.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: The eighth and last reason given in Flood Control Report No. 22 for the change in the by-pass is as follows: "Less area flooded in case of break of East levee of by-pass."</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: This depends entirely upon certain conditions which may prevail when the flood control plan is completed.  In case the Eastern location of the by-pass is completed, if the area between the East levee of that by-pass and the Feather River should depend upon that levee and the Feather River West levee for protection, and assuming that the union of these two levees be at the Southwest corner of District No. 803 (a short distance below Chandler Station), then in case of a break in the levees on the West bank of the Feather River, say a short distance below Yuba City, the water would flow to the South and fill this pocket.  Assuming the levees held and that the water would escape in a thin sheet over the crown of the levee, then the area which would be flooded would depend upon the height of the levee.  Major Cheney's height of flood plane at Nelson Bend is 45.7; and if the levees should be built there with a height of 5 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>If the Central location of the by-pass was adopted, and if District No. 1500 should make use of its present partially constructed levee which runs parallel with and 6000 feet distant from the bank of the river, and extend this levee across the overflow channel at Nelson Slough and connect with the main Feather River levee which extends up that river, then the southerly end of the pocket which would be formed would be at the extreme South end of the reclaimed area which District No. 1500 would have on the East side of the Central by-pass location.  This point would be about one mile North of the S. P. Co.'s trestle at or near the center of Section 5.  The contemplated flood plane there will be very close to elevation 42 (I have not the California Debris Commission's exact data at this point with me), and if we should add 5 feet for construction of levee above this flood plane, then this would bring the top of the levee there to elevation 47.  This would be a difference of 3.7 feet in favor of the Eastern location as claimed in the report.  This, of course, does not take into consideration the prevailing South winds at flood times, and when they are sometimes exceeding strong gales; and from actual observation I know that they have a wonderful effect in pushing water "up hill" in that territory, and the greater the area covered by water, the greater the effect of the wind; so that under some conditions this difference of 3.7 might be entirely eliminated and the 50.7 actually reached under the Central location under these conditions.  This difference just mentioned, of 3.7 feet, would represent the entire general slope of about two miles in that section; and wind action on water there during periods of flood, which have occurred there in past years, has actually affected the scope of flood area to about that extent.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: What would be the area flooded by a break in the <HI REND="italics">West</HI>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: That would depend, of course, upon where the break occurred.  If the break occurred on the southerly end of the by-pass proper, say at about Nelson Slough, the water would flow southerly into District 1500; and I assume that the District managers would immediately take steps to cut the levee on the southerly end of the District so that the water on the land side of the levee would not get any higher than the water was in the Sacramento River, at say Fremont Weir.  Assuming the water in the river to be at the contemplated water plane of 40 feet, this would mean that (without any wind action) every acre in District 1500 would be flooded except a small narrow strip, approximately one-half mile in width on an average and extending from about Collins' Eddy to Tisdale Weir on the Sacramento River side.  The wind action would no doubt, however, cause this strip to be flooded also.  If, in place of a break occurring near Nelson Slough, the break should occur on the extreme South end of the District and so have the least possible flood height within the District, exactly similar results would occur as in the first case; the water in the heart of the District being 20 feet deep.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: How about the Central location of the by-pass?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: In case of a break occurring on the extreme northerly end of the West levee of the by-pass, exactly the same flood conditions would probably occur as I have last described, <HI REND="italics">except</HI>
136.sgm:<P>MR. KENT: Have you any further data which you desire to submit?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: None, except to impress upon you some figures relative to contemplated flood planes which are interesting.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. KENT: What are they?  I want to get all the information I can.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: The contemplated flood plane in the Feather River at Nelson Bend, where the Eastern by-pass will discharge is 45.7</P>
136.sgm:<P>The present ground level in the Eastern by-pass from Nelson Bend up to the latitude of Tisdale By-pass, is<HSEP>30.0</P>
136.sgm:<P>The ground level in the Eastern by-pass from the latitude of Tisdale By-pass gradually raises as you go northerly until it reaches an elevation at the Northern Electric Co.'s bridge, a short distance below the Sutter Buttes<HSEP>42.0</P>
136.sgm:<P>(From this latter point northerly the ground raises much more rapidly.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>The present crest of Tisdale Weir on the East bank of the Feather river is      44.25</P>
136.sgm:<P>(It is contemplated that this crest may be raised to 50.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>When storms occur and floods result, the rivers discharge their flood in the order of their length, etc.  The Bear River discharges first and then the Yuba; then the Feather, and at this same time the American is also discharging; also, all small streams, such as Honcut Creek, etc., etc.  The discharge of all these rivers and creeks pretty well fills all the channels from Sacramento northerly to its junction with the Feather River and up the Feather to Marysville and to Oroville.  You will see, therefore, that with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:Eastern by-pass constructed, that this by-pass and also the Tisdale By-pass will be considerably gorged with back water from the Feather River's flood <HI REND="italics">before</HI>
136.sgm:<P>When this Sacramento River water does commence to discharge into the by-pass (the contemplated discharge is 220,000 sec. ft.) it will be against a "water cushion" of a very considerable depth and in a channel way, which, as I have mentioned before, is "dead level" for about 20 miles; the ground surface at the latitude of Tisdale Weir being 30 and the crest of the Fremont Weir, where it will largely discharge, being at altitude 30.  Along this level stretch of some 20 miles this flood water is expected to flow safely with surface fall of about 6 inches to the mile, the contemplated flood height at Fremont Weir being estimated to be elevation 40, while at the mouth of Tisdale By-pass the contemplated flood height is estimated at 50.5.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Again, I would call your attention to the small capacity of the Sacramento River below Tisdale Weir.  The present capacity is 27,000 sec. ft., and the present flood control plan contemplates that with the raising of levees its capacity will be increased to 30,000 sec. ft.  Above Tisdale Weir the contemplated capacity is expected to be 65,000 sec. ft.  It will be seen from this that it is absolutely necessary that 35,000 sec. ft. be discharged over the Tisdale Weir, through the Tisdale By-pass to the Sutter By-pass.  With the Central location of the by-pass, the contemplated flood plane at the mouth of Tisdale By-pass will be at elevation 47.8 or 6.2 ft. lower than the contemplated flood plane in the Sacramento River at Tisdale Weir.  In the Eastern by-pass, however (and you will note that this is further to the East and so reduces the slope per mile), the contemplated flood plane is expected to be 50.5 or a fall of only 3.5 ft. in the greater distance.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Now remember that these figures are all estimates, based on certain assumptions.  If the assumption is correct when the figures indicate that 220,000 sec. ft. can be discharged in the Eastern by-pass location with a perfect ground level for 20 miles and a surface slope of about 6 inches to the mile, then well and good; but if it should be wrong and this discharge should require a water surface slope of an additional 2 inches per mile for that distance, then the fall of 3.5 in the Tisdale By-pass will have disappeared; and if the river is unable to discharge the necessary 35,000 sec. ft. over the Tisdale Weir, the result will be breaks on the levees below the weir, probably on both sides of the river, and that will mean the inundation of all of District No. 1500 and the entire Colusa Basin.  It therefore appears to me that the factor of safety is none too great for a proper discharge of the Tisdale By-pass into the Central location of the by-pass without going still further to the East and having the discharge made in the Eastern location, and at a higher water plane.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: The various figures which you have been giving today relative to estimated flood heights, etc., are they the figures of the California Debris Commission?</P>
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136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: Yes sir.  I might state for your information, that the State's Flood Control Engineer is making calculations for even a greater flood discharge than has the California Debris Commission and, in consequence, his assumed water planes are considerably higher than are those of the California Debris Commission.  For example, I have stated that the assumed flood plane of the California Debris Commission at Nelson Bend on the Feather is 45.7; but the assumed flood plane for this same place by the Flood Control Engineer, for his greater assumed flood discharge, is 49.9 or 4.2 higher.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. KENT: Have you any other reasons to offer why the Eastern location of the by-pass is not the proper one?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: I am going to voice one more objection, and that is, that the construction of the by-pass in the Sutter Basin is going to be a direct menace to the City of Sacramento, which is already in an admittedly dangerous situation on account of the delay in constructing the Bryte's Bend By-pass, and which will have no unnecessary margin of safety even after that by-pass is constructed.</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. DOCKWEILER: Will you please explain how the construction of the Sutter By-pass will prove to be a menace to the City of Sacramento?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: You may possibly be familiar with the history of the results of a break which occurred on the East bank of the Sacramento River a few years ago, at a place which is generally known as the "Edwards Break."  When this break occurred the flood waters backed northerly and menaced the South levee of the City of Sacramento, and also ran southerly, filling one reclamation District after another until the flood had inundated practically every levee district on the East side of the Sacramento River, clear down to and including some of the reclamation districts in the San Joaquin Delta region.  This was one of the most disastrous breaks which has ever occurred in the valley.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the Central location of the Sutter By-pass, the discharge will be directly opposite the Fremont Weir into the Yolo Basin.  In the Eastern location of the by-pass the discharge will be directed at the levees of District No. 1001, which is the North Reclamation of the American Basin; and the lower end of this district is below the mouth of the Feather River.  If the levee of District No. 1001 should fail, say just below Nelson Bend, the flood waters would rush to the southerly end of this district, and even if the levees on the river should break below the mouth of the Feather River, the capacity of the Sacramento River would be entirely inadequate to take but a very small amount of the flood water which would be precipitated from above into the District.  The result would be, that the levees of the small canal (which lies between District No. 1001 and District No. 1000) would be broken and this would then give free outlet for the flood waters to the South end of the latter District; and from here they would escape into the rivers at Sacramento City, either over or through the District levees.  This additional discharge, added to what is normally to be expected there, will be far in excess of the capacity of the Sacramento River below the Southern Pacific bridge, and then will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:become a test of strength between the levees on the East and West side of the river; and unfortunately, the levees of Sacramento City are lower than the levees on the opposite bank of the river.  If Sacramento City, under these conditions, should fail to stand the test to her levee system it would then be a repetition of the Edwards break from there on to the San Joaquin Delta.  The whole idea of the Eastern location is, I firmly believe, radically wrong.  With the Central location, the Feather River was expected to carry a load of 240,000 sec. ft. below Nelson Bend; and it is unfair to that river to give it an <HI REND="italics">additional</HI>
136.sgm:<P>MR. KENT: Have you anything further to offer?</P>
136.sgm:<P>MR. ELLIS: No Sir, I am afraid I have tired your patience too much already.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the above testimony was given by myself in answers to questions propounded by Mr. Kent and Mr. Dockweiler, some testimony was asked for and given by Mr. Edward Von Geldern and Mr. Samuel Gray of Sutter County.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mr. Kent then brought up the matter of rumors which had been circulated that improper influences had been indulged in, when the vote had been taken by the members of the Reclamation Board and when the shift had been made from the Central to the Western location by the votes of Mr. McClatchy and Mr. Cook, I opposing the change.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I informed Mr. Kent that I had heard of these rumors, which in my opinion were both unfortunate and, I firmly believe, absolutely untrue.  That Senator Chandler of Fresno had invited me to his room one day at Sacramnento, when the Legislature was in session and had for about two hours endeavored to "worm" some information from me on the subject, evidently being under the impression that there was some truth to these rumors, but that I had assured Senator Chandler that such stories were absolutely untrue; that it was purely and simply a difference of opinion between McClatchy, Cook and myself; that they were entitled to their opinions, the same as I was; that I believed that when these two gentlemen disagreed with my decision, that it was an honest difference of opinion; that they had not had the long years of close observation and experience as I had had with flood conditions, as they had existed in many past <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>When Congressman Kent had completed his hearing here, he told me that he was completely in accord with our side of the controversy.  Shortly after, he had all the testimony, which had been obtained in the hearing, printed in booklet form and hundreds of them circulated generally and one copy also placed on the desk of each member of the Legislature.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This booklet, placing new light on the matter to the legislators, Mr. McClatchy then had the State Control Engineer, Mr. E. A. Bailey, get out a printed statement, taking the opposite point of view and these were also widely distributed, with the result, that the majority members of the Legislature were still further confused and "did not know what it was all about."</P>
136.sgm:<P>NOTE:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Quite some time afterwards, I received a letter from Congressman Kent, asking me to meet him at Sacramento, which I did.  He then confided to me that he had decided not to run for Congress again and suggested that I be a candidate for that office.  I told Mr. Kent that I could not do so for two reasons; first, I was in business and could not neglect that business; second, that necessary publicity and other expenses, I really could not afford.  "Don't let the expense worry you, Mr. Ellis," said Mr. Kent, "I will pay all expenses and if necessary spend $5000 for necessary publicity in newspapers, etc., for you."  As Mr. Kent was rated a millionaire, this expenditure meant but little to him, however, I declined with thanks.  Mr. Clarence F. Lea then became a candidate and received the support of Mr. Kent.  Mr. Lea has been Congressman ever since from this District and has made an enviable record.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XCVI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>How I Came to Leave the Reclamation Board</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN A PREVIOUS chapter I have explained that the first members were McClatchy, Cook and myself; McClatchy was President and I was Secretary as well as being a member; however, when the Board was enlarged to seven members, I was again Secretary but had an Assistant Secretary, Miss Edith Grove of Sacramento, who was the active Secretary in keeping the minutes, etc.; in addition, we had an attorney, also an engineer who had the title of Flood Control Engineer (E. A. Bailey), connected with the State Engineer's office; we had also a staff of draughtsmen; all received salaries except the three Board members.  Later on, other areas demanded representation on the Board and the Legislature in 1913 increased the membership to seven, who were also appointed by the Governor.</P>
136.sgm:<P>To comply with the requirements that the interested land owners furnish all necessary rights of way, etc., it was necessary to divide the whole plan into projects, and levy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>I soon ascertained that our General Manager had purchased a lot of rails, logging cars and engines from a closed down lumber camp in the mountains, which had been foreclosed by a Sacramento Bank and, in addition, had paid several thousand dollars for a switch and spur track, to the railroad company, having tracks near the scene of operations.  At the next meeting, I demanded to know why such equipment had been purchased, at apparently excessive prices but received no satisfactory explanation.  Later on, he asked permission to purchase two more engines from the same source for $6000 but his request was refused as he had not as yet demonstrated any real necessity for the equipment formerly purchased.  Shortly afterwards, I ascertained that he had actually purchased these two engines and had given a note to a Sacramento Bank for the $6000 and had signed the note on behalf of the Board.  I went to the Bank, demanded to see the note, was shown it, explained that the General Manager had been told not to purchase this equipment, that checks had to be signed by either the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>When the Board had its next meeting, I explained the circumstances, the General Manager received a rebuke, the bill was not paid and the Bank made no further demand for payment.  It was about this time, the General Manager demanded and again received, over my objections, another raise of his salary to $10,000 per annum, plus expenses, as much salary as the Governor received.</P>
136.sgm:, which published same as having been presented to the Board.  I got no libel suit, however, from the General Manager; he, however, I was later informed, was given a severe "calling down," but was not discharged, but the $6000 note at the Bank was paid.  Later on however, he continued to do more improper things and lost his job; still later on, when a new Governor came on the scene, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>About two years or so later, I had an amusing occurrence.  Governor Stephens, who had removed me, was a friend of Mr. Henry Johnson (our local druggist) and came up occasionally to visit Johnson, sometimes going duck hunting.  One day I dropped in Johnson's Drug Store to purchase some article and as Johnson was busy with some customers, I strolled in his back office.  Governor Stephens was sitting there, he did not recognize me; soon Johnson came in and said, "Mr. Ellis I want to introduce you to Governor Stephens"; we shook hands and then I said "Governor, it is a pleasure to meet you again, the last time I met you we had quite a seance."  The Governor said, "I do not understand what you mean Mr. Ellis"; I replied, "Why the last time I met you, you placed the toe of your boot to the bosom of my trousers"; the Governor said, "I still do not understand," to which I replied, "Why I am the Ellis you kicked off the Reclamation Board."  The Governor got very red in the face, he started to say that "he did remember something about it but did not remember all the facts in the case," etc., etc., when I interrupted him by saying, "Now please do not attempt any apologies Governor, I have no sore spot where your boot landed, I feel quite certain you were taken advantage of by those three members, and I really would prefer to still see you in the Governor's office today in place of that `wild bull in a china shop' who now holds the office."  The Governor and I have been good friends ever since.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I really was not averse to leaving the Reclamation Board; for some ten years, when I had been a member, engineering and construction work were what I was particularly interested in and always have been; when I left the Board, construction work had largely ceased temporarily for lack of funds and the Board's problems were largely legal and financial with figures galore and "figures" are never particularly interesting unless they are clothed in a female bathing suit.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XCVII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>The Attempted Resurrection of Hydraulic Mining In 1927</P>
136.sgm:<P>AFTER the Judge Sawyer decision in 1884, the miners being very dissatisfied, conceived a plan for the resumption of hydraulic mining by having the control of that type of mining placed under the jurisdiction of Government engineers, who would decide what was necessary for a mine to do in the way of constructing restraining works to hold back debris in order to obtain a permit to operate by the hydraulic method.  A bill was introduced in Congress by Congressman Caminetti of Amador County along these lines, desired by the miners, the bill became a law in 1893 and was generally known as the Caminetti Act.  A commission of three Federal Engineers, known as the California Debris Commission, then took charge.  Anyone desiring to operate by the hydraulic process made application for a permit and at the same time, filed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>We held a meeting and discussed the attitude we should take and decided that our policy should be to make no appearances at such hearings and watch and see how the plan worked out for a while and depend upon the California Debris Commission doing the right and fair thing to all concerned.  We knew full well that the members of the Commission were disinterested, and could be depended upon to look out for the Federal Government's interests, which was the navigability of the rivers and which the Federal Government had finally realized had been seriously threatened by past unrestricted hydraulic mining.  The Government's interests were also our interests and time demonstrated that we had adopted the correct policy and since the adoption of the Caminetti Act, up to the present time, a total of over 1000 permits have been granted and we have never once appeared in opposition.</P>
136.sgm:<P>These permits have almost all been for minor operations as regulations laid down by the Commission, for concrete dams and other debris control structures entailed too much expense for large mines to operate at a profit.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The net result was that hydraulic mining as an industry, was a comparatively insignificant business and we of the valley considered that the hydraulic mining problem was a "past issue," for the following 34 years until 1927, when a "resurrection" took place when the so called Cloudman Bill was introduced in the Legislature, proposing an appropriation of $300,000, for purchase of dam sites and to be followed by the construction of large dams with moneys to be obtained from State and Federal funds.  A few years before, after several years of investigations and surveys and at a cost of about $1,000,000 a comprehensive water conservation plan for the entire state had been evolved, and as the proposed legislation was considered in conflict with that plan and for other reasons, it was strongly opposed and the attempted legislation defeated.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This was then followed by a series of meetings held by the Commonwealth Club in San Francisco, when both sides to the controversy were given hearings.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When the Legislature again met in 1929, a similar bill, known as the Seawell Bill was introduced, to carry an appropriation of $200,000 and this was also again seriously objected to by the valley interests.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Public interest in both the mountains and the valleys was very intense; joint sessions of both houses of the Legislature were held and "spellbinders" representing both sides held forth in an effort to gain votes to their respective sides.  The miners succeeded in their bill before the Assembly and it then went to the Senate.  On May 13th, 1929, I appeared on behalf of the Sacramento Valley Anti-Debris Association, before the Senate Finance Committee of the Legislature and made the following argument:</P>
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136.sgm:<P>This bill which is before you and which is practically the same as the Cloudman Bill of two years ago has the distinct disapproval of the California Debris Commission, of General Jadwin, the Chief of Engineers of the United States Army, Washington, D. C., the great mass of the people of the Sacramento Valley, and it is distinctly opposed to and would complicate the co-ordained plan for the development of the water resources of this State as outlined in Bulletin No. 12 and reported to the Legislature in 1927.  Since the defeat of the Cloudman Bill two years ago I have, on numerous occasions, discussed this proposed legislation with a great many people living in the old hydraulic mining sections where are situated such places as La Porte, Gibsonville, Downieville, Camptonville, etc., and I speak advisedly when I state that I have yet to find in any of that large area any interest whatsoever in this proposed legislation simply because of the fact that the cream of the hydraulic mining area was mined out years ago and what may be left, the people there know would not be profitable to work.  The only section in the mountains which is showing the slightest interest in this bill is that on the south fork of the Yuba River where is left the only really worthwhile restricted area of good gold-bearing gravel, and which area is largely controlled by a few individuals who are making the sole effort to obtain this legislation.</P>
136.sgm:<P>After the long series of meetings held by the Commonwealth Club and where both sides of this controversy were given every opportunity to be heard and present their arguments, it was very distinctly shown that after taking Mr. Jarman's (the State's representative) estimate of the anticipated profit from the proposed hydraulic mining operations and comparing them with the estimates made by W. W. Waggoner of Nevada City, representing the mining interests, and Otto Von Geldern, representing the Valley interests, that the average net return which might be expected under these three estimates was slightly less than 2 3/4c per yard, and the conclusion which any reasonable person could arrive at was that the proposed mining under the conditions which would be imposed would be unprofitable and this was the same conclusion arrived at by the United States Government engineers.  This conclusion must be right and is confirmed by the experience in the past since the year 1893 when the Caminetti Act became a law.  For all those years, under the Caminetti Act, the mining interests could have, if they so desired, arranged for the construction of dams with the cooperation of the Government, but no effort was ever so made by them, undoubtedly for the reason that they did not think that it would prove profitable and they did not care to risk the investment.  Now, they propose to have the State and Federal Governments assume that risk and invest the money in the dams and if the mines pay, the State and Federal Governments presumably will be reimbursed for their outlay; if, however, the mining does not pay, then the State and Federal Governments would be "holding the bag."  This proposal, the Federal engineers have emphatically turned down and the State now has the proposal under consideration and it is now here before you gentlemen for some recommendation.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>Referring to the Judge Sawyer decision of 1884, that decision did not say that hydraulic mining was illegal, but that the dumping of the hydraulic by-products into the navigable rivers of the State and onto the lands of the Valley was illegal and had to be stopped.  Ever since then, from time to time, efforts have been made to evade the necessary restrictions, but as yet, without results.  Being dissatisfied with their own Act which was passed by Congress and previously referred to as the Caminetti Act, the mining interests in 1904 persuaded President Roosevelt to send someone from the United States Geological Survey Department to investigate and ascertain if there was some other way of solving their difficulties.  President Roosevelt sent out Professor G. K. Gilbert, who spent three years on his investigations and made a very exhaustive and complete report, but his conclusion was that there was no other way to handle the problem.  This report disclosed the fact that the amount of deposits of mining debris between the years 1849 and 1914 in the San Francisco Bay system amounted to 1,146,000,000 cubic yards, that on the water sheds of the Yuba, Bear and American rivers only, there had been excavated 857,670,000 cubic yards of mining material which was eight times more material than was excavated in the construction of the Panama Canal.  In the concluding statements of this report appears the following: "returning to the excavation of hydraulic mining, I shall assume that, in the future as now, the work on the auriferous gravel will be permitted ONLY on the condition that the tailings, both coarse and fine, will be kept from the rivers, also that the regulations that restrain hydraulic mining should not be made less stringent," and further, "with minor exceptions the gravels that remain in the Sierras cannot be worked properly so long as the cost of storage is added to the cost of washing."</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the face of all these reports no further efforts were made to have the restrictions modified by the mining interests until two years ago, when, as you know, the Cloudman Bill was introduced into the Legislature.  As the report of Colonel Jackson, concurred in by General Jadwin, Chief of Engineers, should carry some weight with the State's representatives, I wish to bring to your attention a few extracts from the report: "The board believes, therefore that any resumption of hydraulic mining on a large scale should be undertaken only on such a basis as would justify private investors in assuming all the risks involved.  This would mean that the mine owners should provide direct or indirectly all necessary debris-retention work."  Again, "In other words, if the project is successful and mining develops at the rate expected, it will be of no advantage to the lower rivers so far as preventing the flow of sand into them is concerned."  Again, "The California Debris Commission is of the opinion that it is unwise for the United States to enter into partnership with a private company in a project of this kind."  Again, "Even though present plans may make it appear feasible to use the site for storage of debris without interference with its primary purpose of irrigation, this commission feels that the project, of which this site is an essential unit, IS SO VITAL TO THE WELFARE OF THE STATE AS TO PRECLUDE IT FROM THIS <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>It is a well-known fact that when the Sawyer decision was made in 1884 when materials and labor and the expense of getting water was vastly less than they are today, still many of the mines had ceased to show profits.  In an article published in the Grass Valley <HI REND="italics">Tidings</HI>
136.sgm:<P>Our mining friends have stated on many occasions that the Sawyer decision resulted in the confiscation of $100,000,000 worth of property in the mining district; in view of the fact that mining was proving unprofitable even at that early date, it is rather hard to believe that there was that much loss entailed to the hydraulic mining interests and no facts have ever been given to substantiate that figure.  Assuming, however, for argument's sake that they did suffer that much loss, then our mining friends must remember that we in the valleys also suffered a tremendous loss and in the report of Major U.S. Grant, 3rd, Document No. 23, Sixty-ninth Congress, he states that the "expenditures by local interests both for flood control and reclamation since 1850 and up to 1925 amounted to $86,645,855.87 and in addition the State of California had advanced the sum of $4,479,463.76, making a total of $91,125,319.63.  As this does not include expenditures by the United States Government itself and as it does not include irreparable damage done to large areas of farming lands, it is readily to be seen that the total expense made necessary in the Valley because of the operations of hydraulic mining amounted to at least $100,000,000, so that our losses and expenditures are equal, if they do not exceed, the amount of confiscation claimed by the hydraulic mining interests."  Morally, I presume that the Valley interests have a claim for all of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Under the present Caminetti Act, hydraulic mining interests are now compelled to restrain their debris and so prevent damage to the property of others and they irk at those restrictions, but I want to call your attention to the fact that we in the Valley are also compelled to respect the rights of others even in our levee building.  No levee district in the Sacramento or San Joaquin valleys can today either construct a new levee or repair an old levee without first making application before the Reclamation Board for its permission and that Board, in conjunction with the California Debris Commission, makes its investigations and ascertains whether such works of improvement are going to be made on safe and sane lines and in such a manner as will not jeopardize the properties of others.  This is as it should be and we do not complain of these restrictions but welcome them in the interests of fair play, and our mining friends should do likewise.</P>
136.sgm:<P>We maintain that the future prosperity and the extreme limit of this great State's development in the future depends upon its future water supply and not upon its gold product.  Hydraulic mining, according to the Jarman report, could not last, under the most favorable conditions, much over twenty years; on the other hand, it is vastly more important that the few reservoir sites in the mountains of the Sierra be retained for the storage of water for the development of power and for the irrigation of the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys than it is to have those storage basins filled with mining debris and so lose that capacity for water storage for all time to come.  Even if these dams are constructed for storage of water, a great deal of that capacity will be encroached upon by the partial filling of them with mining debris still left in the canyons; and I want to impress that fact upon this Committee.  On page 14 of Colonel Jackson's report appears the following: "Nearly 620,000,000 cubic yards remain lodged in the river beds and mine dumps in the mountains and in the large deposits built up at the points where the mountain streams enter the valley, while nearly 96,000,000 cubic yards remain in the navigable portions of the Sacramento and Feather Rivers."</P>
136.sgm:<P>In conclusion, we believe with the Government engineers, "that any resumption of hydraulic mining on a large scale should be undertaken only on such a basis as would justify private investors in assuming all the risks involved."  This would mean that the mine owners should provide directly or indirectly all necessary debris-retention work.  After the irreparable damage wrought in the State in the past by hydraulic mining, it is inconceivable that the State would now go into partnership with this same private industry by investing its money in a plan which has no promise or guarantee that the capital so invested will ever be returned; a plan, which also is in many ways in direct conflict with the State's own proposed plan for the coordination of the water resources of California, which means vastly more to the great future of the State than any other scheme, either private or public.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>We trust your action on this Bill will be along the same lines as has been that of the Federal Engineers.</P>
136.sgm:<P>There is just one more subject upon which I desire to dwell briefly before I close, and that is the subject of dams.  The Yuba River has, I think, had more restraining dams built on it during the last fifty years than any other river in the United States, perhaps the world.  The miners, in their early efforts to make the Courts believe that they were using every effort to restrain debris, built scores of dams, mostly of logs and some rock filled; of course they all failed as everyone expected.  In addition to these smaller dams, several larger dams were built, among them the English Dam, a very fine high dam which failed in June 1883 and precipitated an immense amount of debris into the lower reaches of the river and the escaping waters flooded a large area of farming lands south of Marysville, although it was in the summer time and the river was at a low state.  Another dam was the North Bloomfield dam at Humbug Canyon, fifty feet in height and which soon filled to the top with debris, then more debris escaping over the top, filled the river bed below the dam until eventually the crest of the dam disappeared under the fill of debris.  Another similar dam was constructed across Sucker Flat Ravine near Smartsville with similar results.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The State of California in 1880 constructed a dam across the Yuba River, about two miles in length and about eight miles east of Marysville at a cost of over $200,000.  This dam failed the following winter season.  Then the State and Federal Governments appropriated $800,000 for dams on the Yuba River, the Federal Engineers expending the money.  They first constructed a well built dam of logs, rock filled, and that dam failed the next winter season.  They then built two very fine concrete dams across the river but in a few years, these were totally destroyed.  Probably over two millions of money was wasted in building dams on that river.  At the present time there is only one real dam on the Yuba River and that is the Bullards Bar dam, and constructed by a power company.  This dam, from original stream level to maximum high water level is 188 feet in height.  Frankly, we haven't supreme confidence in this dam, which cost, I understand, about $1,250,000.  I have had experienced engineers criticize it severely because it has no "key" at the base, the dam really resting on the surface of the bed-rock; the dam is only 43 feet thick at the base and only 6 feet thick at its crest.  Last year the rock walls on each side of the dam were so badly eroded that the Government engineers compelled the owners to spend a huge sum of money in concreting the ends of the dam, from top to bottom and I understand that more work of a similar character will be done this year.  When this dam was built, it was announced that it was primarily for restraining hydraulic mining debris and that it was expected to hold forty million yards of mining debris.  It was really intended for a power dam and the forty million yards of debris will never be deposited behind that dam for the very simple reason that there are not enough paying mines on that fork of the Yuba River ever to produce that amount of debris.  That is the opinion of many experienced mining men of that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Now, please do not misunderstand me--we do not claim that dams cannot be built to restrain debris--we assume that they possibly can, <HI REND="italics">BUT</HI>
136.sgm: we must remember that very costly and finely constructed concrete dams in various parts of the country have failed within the last few years, also a well constructed earth filled dam recently collapsed, even before it was filled with water, so no one can absolutely guarantee the stability of any dam; there is always that possibility of failure.  The failure of a dam in the mountains, filled only with water and causing a possible inundation of some farming lands for a few days, is one thing; but the failure of a dam, largely filled with debris is a vastly different proposition.  Take the case of the proposed dam at the Narrows near Smartsville and behind which it is proposed to store 117 million cubic yards of mining debris from the South and Middle Forks of the Yuba River; if such a dam should fail and that mass of material be dumped on the top of the 330 million yards of old mining debris still remaining in the bed of the Yuba River from Marysville to the foothills, it would result in a catastrophe from which the valley lands there could never recover, as we must remember that the original river there was deep and about 600 feet in width, while now, that river there is three miles in width and the top of the old sand and debris bars is at places, 13 feet higher than the farming lands on the opposite side of the levee.  The evil effect would not be confined to Yuba County, but most of the other counties to the west and south.  <HI REND="italics">Can</HI>
136.sgm:<P>The bill shortly after came before the senate body for final action and the very interesting occurrences which took place will be given in a subsequent chapter.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XCVIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Discussions Before the Commonwealth Club</P>
136.sgm:<P>AFTER the defeat of the proposed mining legislation known as the "Cloudman Bill" in the Legislature in 1927 there were numerous meetings held before the Mines Committee of that Club in San Francisco and many arguments, pro and con, were presented by persons qualified to speak intelligently and informatively on the subject of hydraulic mining.  Many persons attended these meetings, among them being Colonel Thomas H. Jackson, of the California Debris Commission, who "listened in."</P>
136.sgm:<P>In connection with the economic aspect of the problem, three opinions by three different engineers were of great interest, as follows:</P>
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136.sgm:<P>1.  Mr. Arthur Jarman (who had been employed by the State to investigate the possibility of rehabilitation of hydraulic mining) had arrived at the conclusion that on the North, South and Middle forks of the Yuba River, the expected gross receipts per cubic yard was 10.9 cents while the expenses would be 7.0 cents per cubic yard, indicating a net return of 3.4 cents per cubic yard, after deducting .50 for dam payment.</P>
136.sgm:<P>2.  Mr. W. W. Waggoner, a long time prominent engineer of Nevada City and representing the mining interests, made a report indicating expected gross receipts of 9.81 cents per cubic yard and the same total expense as Mr. Jarman of 7.0 cents per cubic yard so that Mr. Waggoner's anticipated net returns were 2.81 cents per cubic yard.</P>
136.sgm:<P>3.  Mr. Otto Von Geldern of San Francisco, who had taken an active part in the early day hydraulic mining litigation and who was representing the Valley interests, placed his estimated gross returns at 10.00 cents per cubic yard and expenses at 8.05 cents per cubic yard, leaving an estimated net return of 1.95 cents per cubic yard, which however, included a deduction of one-half cent for dam payment.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The average of all three estimates was 2.72 cents per cubic yard for net returns.  (Please remember that these estimates were on the old price of gold.)  Since then, gold has been advanced to $35; on the other hand, labor and materials have also advanced; as for necessary water, that is also a debatable question.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Can hydraulic mining, under the proposed plan and under present conditions, be made profitable?</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XCIX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Final Action on the Seawell Bill</P>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">How James Stewart's Victory was Turned into Defeat</HI>
136.sgm:<P>THE Seawell Bill came up for final action by the Senate on the evening of May 15, 1929, the day before the Legislature was going to adjourn.  Both sides had been very busy "button-holing" the Senators in an endeavor to win over votes.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The voting on the bill was about 9 o'clock that evening; when the roll call was completed, we had won by one vote and were vastly pleased that the bill was defeated; our satisfaction then changed to utter astonishment, when Senator Frank M. Merriam, (now Governor) who had voted against the bill, got up and changed his vote, and we then had lost by one vote.  The bill then had passed both houses of the Legislature and would then go to the Governor for some action.  Our side was not only astonished but felt very sore at Senator Merriam; he had promised to vote against the bill, he had really kept his word, but when he found that only one vote controlled the final action, he "had a change of heart," and as we looked at it, "double-crossed us" and before the evening was over, I found an opportunity to so express myself.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Later on that same evening, I ran across our chief opponent, James Stewart in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>Well, that statement from Jim gave me some food for thought, so the next morning, promptly at 9 o'clock I was at the Governor's office waiting for him to arrive.  He arrived promptly and I asked if I could see him for a few minutes and he invited me into his private office.  I then told the Governor what had happened the night before, of Senator Merriam's switch in his vote and particularly what Jim Stewart had told me about the delegations and telegrams with which the Governor was going to be bombarded.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I then asked the Governor if he would permit me to make some suggestions, to which he answered, "Go right ahead Mr. Ellis."  I then said, "Governor, we who have been opposed to this bill, have no idea how you have felt in the matter but we have been under the impression that you were not favorable to this legislation; we have done our best to keep it away from you but as a result of Mr. Merriam's action, the bill is now in your lap and the Legislature adjourns tonight.  Now if you <HI REND="italics">ARE</HI>
136.sgm:<P>I immediately went to Frank Jordan's office (Secretary of State) and fortunately he was in.  I said, "Frank I want you to furnish me a stenographer and I am in a h--of a hurry"; he did so, she typed what I dictated and at 11 o'clock I was again at the Governor's office, handed him the information he had asked for.  He looked it over and said, "Now take this downstairs to the office of my private attorney, Mr. Cook, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>About two hours afterwards, just as I had finished having lunch at the Sutter Club, Mr. Bert B. Meek, who at that time was the State Director of Public Works, came over to me and whispered in my ear, "Say Bill, I have just read the veto message you wrote for the Governor; he has just sent it to the Legislature."  That afternoon, the Legislature attempted to pass the bill over the Governor's veto, but could not muster enough votes to do so.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Late that afternoon, I ran across Jim Stewart, "and was he mad."  He unbosomed himself to me for a while, expressing his opinion of the Governor's action in being so hasty; I told him that he had only himself to blame, that if he had not told me the night before of the pressure he was going to put on the Governor, that I would never have thought of going to the Governor the next morning and making some suggestions to him, which he had followed.  Jim said, "Well Bill, this is not the end, I am going to take this before the people of this State."  What happened next, will be disclosed in the following chapter.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER C</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>James Stewart's Threatened Referendum</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN THE preceding chapter, I told of the veto of the Seawell Bill by Governor Young and that James Stewart had told me that he then proposed to take the matter before the people of the State, at the next general election.  At first, we thought that Jim was just mad and would cool off before long; later on, we got word from several sources that he really meant what he had said.  Well, he had us scared; we realized that if he went before the people of the State with a slogan of "Let's get the gold out of them thar hills," that it would appeal very likely to the mass of the voters, who had no direct interests at stake and would very likely be favorably impressed by such a slogan.  The hydraulic fight had been so many years in the past, the old timers had largely passed on, youngsters had grown up, new people had come to the State, and when people, living right here in Marysville, came to me and asked just what were the objections to hydraulic mining anyway, I realized that we would be up against a good stiff lot of educating and necessary propaganda, if we should win in such a fight and that it would require a lot of hard work and finances.</P>
136.sgm:<P>We presented the matter to the Boards of Supervisors of Yuba and Sutter Counties and each county put up $3,000 to the Anti-Debris Association for expenses.  We decided first to disseminate information by having Mr. Adrian McMullen of Yuba City make a trip to the south, which he did, calling on various newspaper editors, Chambers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">JUST WHAT IS HYDRAULIC MINING</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: In the famous decision of Judge Lorenzo Sawyer of the United States Circuit Court, in 1884, he states, "Hydraulic mining, as used in this opinion, is the process by which a bank of gold-bearing earth and rock is excavated by a jet of water, discharged through the converging nozzle of a pipe, under great pressure, the earth and debris being carried away by the same water, through sluices, and discharged on lower levels into the natural streams and water courses below.  Where the gravel or other material of the bank is cemented, or where the bank is composed of masses of pipe-clay, it is shattered by blasting with powder sometimes from fifteen to twenty tons of powder being used at one blast to break up a bank.  In the early periods of hydraulic mining as in 1855, the water was discharged through a rubber or canvas hose, with nozzles of not more than an inch in diameter; but later, upon the invention of the `Little Giant' and the `Monitor' machines, the size of the nozzle and the pressure were largely increased, till now the nozzle is from four to nine inches in diameter, discharging from 500 to 1,000 inches of water under a pressure of from three to four or five hundred feet.  For example, an eight-inch nozzle at the North Bloomfield mine discharges 185,000 cubic feet of water in an hour, with a velocity of 150 feet per second.  The excavating power of such a body of water, discharged with such velocity, is enormous; and, unless the gravel is very heavy or firmly cemented, it is much in excess of its transporting power."  (18 Fed. 753.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WHAT QUANTITY OF MATERIAL WAS MOVED IN THIS WAY</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: In 1904, at the request of the Hydraulic Mining interests, President Roosevelt sent out Professor G.K. Gilbert, of the U.S. Geological Survey Department to investigate and ascertain if there was some other way of solving the miner's difficulty other than by the Caminetti Act.  Professor Gilbert spent three years on his investigations and made a very complete report but his conclusion was, there was no other way to handle the problem.  This report disclosed the fact that the amount of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">HOW MUCH MATERIAL IS LEFT IN THE LOWER RIVERS</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: According to Major William W. Harts of the California Debris Commission, "The low water plane of the Yuba River at Marysville was raised 15 feet between the years 1849 and 1881.  Between the years 1881 and 1905 there was an additional raise of three feet, making a total raise in the low water plane of 18 feet (the actual fill in the main channel being 26 feet).  The depth of fill of mining debris in the Yuba River averaged from 7 1/2 feet at Marysville to 26 feet at Daguerre Point and 84 feet at Smartsville.  A short distance east from Marysville, the bed of the Yuba River was 13 feet above the level of the surrounding farms."  The quantity of material lodged in the river due to mining has been variously estimated, but it seems safe to say that there are now (1905) upwards of 333,000,000 cubic yards in the bed of the lower Yuba, this in a distance of about eight miles above Marysville."  Remember, this was only on the Yuba River; other rivers such as the Feather, Bear, American, etc., were similarly affected with mining debris deposits.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">IS THERE ANY OF THIS MATERIAL AT THE PRESENT TIME STILL LEFT IN THE MOUNTAIN CANYONS</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: According to Colonel T.H. Jackson of the California Debris Commission, there are "Nearly 620,000,000 cubic yards remaining lodged in the river beds and mine dumps in the mountains and in the large deposits built up at the point where the mountain streams enter the valley."  This material is gradually being washed down to the navigable rivers and bays.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">AT THIS TIME ABOUT HOW MUCH MINING MATERIAL IS THERE IN THE LOWER RIVERS</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: According to Colonel T.H. Jackson, "Nearly 96,000,000 cubic yards remain in the navigable channels of the Sacramento and Feather Rivers."</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WHAT EFFECT HAS THIS MATERIAL DUMPED IN THE RIVERS HAD ON NAVIGATION</HI>
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136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Before the advent of Hydraulic Mining, tidal effect was felt up the Feather River to Nicolaus, 19 miles below Marysville, or about 175 miles from San Francisco by river.  The Feather River was navigable to Oroville, about 141 miles from the mouth of the Sacramento River and the Sacramento River itself was navigable to Red Bluff, about 250 miles from the mouth of that river.  Mining debris, however, ruined navigation on the Feather River many years ago and it is not being navigated now.  The Sacramento River to Colusa is now very difficult at times to navigate.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">NOTWITHSTANDING THE FACT THAT YOU STATE THAT NAVIGATION IN THE FEATHER RIVER HAS BEEN DESTROYED BY HYDRAULIC MINING, AND I UNDERSTAND ALSO THAT THE SACRAMENTO RIVER HAS BUT LITTLE NAVIGATION ABOVE COLUSA, IS THE MAIN CHANNEL STILL VALUABLE FOR NAVIGATION</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: The Sacramento River has not only been a prime factor in the tremendous crop production in the Valley, but it is equally valuable as a channel for the transportation of products.  It is said of the Sacramento River that it leads all streams in the world in its shipment of products grown along its banks.  In the last eight years, the tonnage handled averaged 1,272,534 tons per year, to the value of $69,576,499 per year and at the same time an average of 85,760 passengers were transported annually.  Please understand that to maintain this navigation is expensive to the Federal Government and on the navigable portion of the Sacramento River last year, it cost a total of $186,441.78 to dredge out mining debris bars and various other kind of work to permit this navigation, and this kind of expense has been going on annually for a long time and will be necessary for a long time in the future.  From this it may be seen that the Sacramento River is too valuable a river to permit being damaged to any further extent by the rehabilitation of hydraulic mining behind dams which may or may not restrain such debris, and 96,000,000 cubic yards of mining debris now in the navigable river, is more than sufficient to cope with without being added to in even a minor degree.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">ASSUMING THE POSSIBILITIES OF A DAM FAILING, IS THE ELEMENT OF DANGER GREATER IF THE DAM IS FILLED WITH DEBRIS OR FILLED WITH WATER</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: There is always an element of danger to any dam.  Engineers will claim that they can be built so they will not fail, but what guarantee can be given?  We <HI REND="italics">KNOW</HI>
136.sgm: that in recent years, very finely constructed dams <HI REND="italics">HAVE</HI>
136.sgm: failed, not only here in California, but in other parts of the United States and as we in the Valley see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WHAT EFFECT HAS THE FILLING OF THE RIVERS HAD ON THE VALLEY FARMING LANDS</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: The filling of the river channel resulted in an almost annual overflow of the farming lands, necessitating the construction of levees by the land owners at enormous expense.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">DID THE STOPPAGE OF HYDRAULIC MINING CAUSE MATERIAL LOSS TO THE MINERS</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: The mining interests have stated on many occasions that the Sawyer Decision resulted in the confiscation of $100,000,000 worth of property in the mining districts, but in view of the fact that hydraulic mining was commencing to prove unprofitable about the time of that decision, it is rather difficult to believe that there was that much loss entailed to the hydraulic mining interests and no facts have ever been given to substantiate that figure.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WHAT HAS BEEN THE COST OF LEVEES, ETC., MADE NECESSARY BY HYDRAULIC MINING</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: In the report of Major U.S. Grant, 3rd, Document No. 3, Sixty-ninth Congress, he states that the "expenditures by local interests both for flood control and reclamation since 1850 and up to 1925 amounted to $86,645,855.87, and in addition the State of California had advanced the sum of $4,479,463.76, making a total of $91,125,319.63."  As this does not include expenditures by the United States Government itself and as it does not include irreparable damage done to large areas of farming lands, it is readily to be seen that the total damage and expense made necessary in the Valley because of the operations of hydraulic mining amounted to vastly more than the $100,000,000 "confiscation" claimed by the hydraulic mining interests.</P>
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136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WAS THERE ONLY ONE SUIT TO STOP HYDRAULIC MINING</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: No, there were scores of suits with different mines.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WHO STOOD THE EXPENSE OF THESE SUITS</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: The early suits were largely financed by voluntary subscription by the landowners whose lands were affected, and up to the year 1882 there had been contributed in this way by private subscriptions a little over $65,000 for such purposes.  About that time Yuba and Sutter counties through their Boards of Supervisors jointly financed these suits and between the years 1882 and 1907 inclusive, the two counties had jointly expended $394,983.62 in this way; then Sacramento County joined in and took charge of the litigation.  Please understand that this is for legal expense alone.  In addition to this, Yuba and Sutter counties in the meantime, up to 1901, had expended $5,747,329.59 for construction of levees.  Since that time many million dollars additional have been expended under the State Flood Plan by these two counties.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">DO YOU MEAN TO SAY THAT THE BURDEN OF THE EXPENSE FOR LITIGATION TO STOP HYDRAULIC MINING WAS ALL UPON A FEW COUNTIES AND THAT WHILE THOSE COUNTIES WERE ENDEAVORING TO SAVE THEMSELVES FROM DESTRUCTION FROM HYDRAULIC MINING, THEY WERE AT THE SAME TIME PRACTICALLY MAKING THE FIGHT TO PREVENT THE DESTRUCTION OF THE NAVIGABLE RIVERS AND BAYS, AND THAT THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT ITSELF HAD NOT, AND DID NOT, MAKE ANY EFFORT ITSELF TO PROTECT ITS RIVERS AND BAYS</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Yes, I mean just that.  Also, that after the U.S. Circuit Court finally went on record in the Sawyer Decision, even then, those same counties had to furnish the funds to carry out the Court's decrees.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WERE THERE OTHER EXPENSES NECESSARY BESIDES LEGAL EXPENSES</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Yes, in every suit before it was commenced, it was necessary to get proper information that mines were operating and doing damage so as to have proper testimony to prosecute such suits.  This information was very difficult to obtain because the mine owners had armed guards surrounding their mines to ward off any outsiders who might come near the mines.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WHAT WAS THE REAL DECIDING SUIT IN THIS LEGAL FIGHT</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: This was the decision of Judge Lorenzo Sawyer, of the United States Circuit Court in 1884.  The decision was very lengthy, the testimony was contained in 12,000 pages of printed matter.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">DID THIS DECISION STATE THAT HYDRAULIC MINING WAS ILLEGAL</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: No; but it did declare that the dumping of the by-products (debris) from hydraulic mining into the rivers was illegal.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">IS THE PRINCIPLE LAID DOWN BY THIS SAWYER DECISION THE LAW OF THE LAND TODAY</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: It is.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">DID HYDRAULIC MINING IMMEDIATELY CEASE AFTER THIS DECISION</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: No, for the reasons just set forth, that it was difficult to obtain information to sustain suits against mines because of armed guards surrounding the mines.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WAS IT NOT ARRANGED LATER ON TO LICENSE HYDRAULIC MINING</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Yes, in 1893 the Caminetti Act was adopted by Congress at the request of the mining interests and it is still in force at the present time.  Under this act a hydraulic mine was permitted to operate after it had obtained permission to do so from the California Debris Commission which consisted of three United States Government Engineers.  Before such permission was granted, the mine owner had to convince this Commission that it would be possible to properly restrain the mining debris by dams, etc.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">DID THIS ACT PROVIDE FOR GOVERNMENT COOPERATION IN BUILDING DAMS FOR STORAGE OF DEBRIS</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Yes, but this cooperation required a payment of three per cent of the gross proceeds of mining for storage and no dam was ever constructed under this provision, or ever asked for by the miners.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">ABOUT HOW MANY LICENSES HAVE BEEN GRANTED</HI>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<HI REND="italics">UNDER THE CAMINETTI ACT BETWEEN 1893 AND THE PRESENT TIME</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Something like 1000 licenses have been granted and I might state that the Valley interests have never made a single objection to any permit so granted, as we had perfect confidence in the fairness and good judgment of the members of the California Debris Commission, the personnel of which changes about every 4 years.  At the present time, 29 mines are operating under permits.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">DID THE CAMINETTI ACT PROVE SATISFACTORY TO THE MINERS AND ACCOMPLISH WHAT THEY HAD EXPECTED OF IT</HI>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WHAT HAPPENED NEXT</HI>
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136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Nothing was done for many years, until the meeting of the Legislature in 1927 when a report was made known as the Jarman Report, which was authorized by the Legislature of 1925, on the feasibility of the resumption of hydraulic mining.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WHAT DID THIS REPORT SHOW</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: This report (page 33) states that an "Inspection of the more important gravels in these districts for the present hydraulic mining commission showed that only 712,000,000 cubic yards could be regarded as workable under the changed conditions."</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WHAT WAS THE RESULT OF THIS REPORT</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: This resulted in a bill being introduced in the Legislature known as the Cloudman Bill, asking for an appropriation of $300,000 to be expended by the State in acquiring dam sites with the idea that dams would be eventually constructed by the State and Federal Governments to restrain hydraulic mining debris and the State and Federal Governments to be reimbursed by the miners paying for storage of such debris behind those dams.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">DID THIS BILL BECOME A LAW</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: No, it was defeated in the Legislature, and two years later a similar bill for $200,000 was introduced, known as the Seawell Bill and this bill was passed by the Legislature but vetoed by the Governor.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WHAT WAS THE ATTITUDE OF THE CALIFORNIA DEBRIS COMMISSION IN REGARD TO THESE BILLS</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: When the first bill was introduced in the Legislature, and later defeated, a series of meetings were held before the mining section of the Commonwealth Club in San Francisco where both the Valley and the mining interests were given every facility to present arguments both pro and con and a great deal of information was disclosed.  These meetings were attended by Colonel Thomas H. Jackson of the California Debris Commission who listened to all the arguments and later on, at the conclusion of the meetings he made a report to General Jadwin, Chief of Engineers of the U.S. Army, Washington, D.C. and in that report were some comments and conclusions which Colonel Jackson arrived at, as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The Board believes, therefore, that any resumption of hydraulic mining on a large scale should be undertaken only on such a basis as would justify private investors in assuming all the risks involved.  This would mean that the mine owners should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>"The Board concludes that the construction of retention dams with Federal funds to enable a resumption of hydraulic mining is not justified at the present time.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The debris commission believes that the United States should not enter into partnership with a private power company for the purchase of storage rights."</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">JUST WHAT CONCLUSION HAVE THE VALLEY INTERESTS ARRIVED AT</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: We maintain that the future prosperity and the extreme limit of this great State's development in the future depends upon its future water supply and not upon its gold product.  Hydraulic mining, according to the Jarman report, could not last, under the most favorable conditions, much over twenty years; on the other hand it is vastly more important that the few reservoir sites in the mountains of the Sierra be retained for the storage of water for the development of power and for irrigation of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys than it is to have these storage basins filled with mining debris and so lose that capacity for water storage for all time to come for irrigation and power purposes.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">YOU HAVE PREVIOUSLY STATED THAT AT THE TIME OF THE DECISION OF JUDGE SAWYER OF 1884, THAT AT THAT TIME HYDRAULIC MINING WAS NOT PROVING VERY PROFITABLE.  I PRESUME BECAUSE THE RICHER GRAVEL DEPOSITS HAD BEEN PRETTY THOROUGHLY WORKED OUT BY THAT TIME.  IF SUCH IS THE CASE, HOW WOULD THAT CONDITION BE AFFECTED AT THE PRESENT TIME</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: In the hearings before the Commonwealth Club, it was pretty well brought out that the cost of labor and material necessary for such mining operations is at least sixty-six and two-thirds per cent greater now than it was in the unrestricted mining days, and you must remember that the output of the enterprise (gold) has no higher value now than it had then.  It would appear therefore that it would be quite uneconomical to carry on hydraulic mining now under conditions which might require more expensive methods to hold back the debris, than were ever used before.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">ABOUT WHAT IS THE AVERAGE GROSS EXPECTED YIELD PER CUBIC YARD NOW IN HYDRAULIC MINING</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: For all practical purposes it has been considered a fair average yield per <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I might also state that on the Yuba river three estimates were made on probable net returns, one by Mr. Jarman who got up the report to the State, the other by Mr. W. W. Waggoner, of Nevada City, representing mining interests and one by O. Von Geldern, representing Valley interests.  Their conclusions were as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mr. Jarman: Gross receipts .109 less total expense .075 net returns .0340 per cubic yard.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mr. Waggoner: Gross receipts .0981 less total expense .07 net return .0281 per cubic yard.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mr. Von Geldern: Gross receipts .10 less total expense .0805 net return .0195 per cubic yard.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The average of the three above would be a net return of .0272 per cubic yard which would not appear very profitable as a mining proposition.  Please remember that this is all on the Yuba River where the most valuable gravels are to be had.  All the other rivers would not expect to show as good results as values in gravels are less.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">ISN'T THERE AN OLD SAYING THAT THERE HAS BEEN JUST AS MUCH MONEY EXPENDED IN THE MOUNTAINS IN TRYING TO GET THE GOLD OUT AS THERE HAS BEEN ACTUALLY GOLD RECOVERED</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Yes, there is such a saying and there is undoubtedly a great deal of truth in it.  In any event, gold production is insignificant with agriculture, for example, the Jarman report estimates in 20 years behind three of the dams there <HI REND="italics">MAY</HI>
136.sgm: be produced $10,000,400 in gold; this would be an average of $500,000 per year.  Now just compare this with the <HI REND="italics">ANNUAL</HI>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WERE ANY ESTIMATES MADE ON RESERVOIR CAPACITY FOR STORAGE OF MINING DEBRIS AND COST OF THE DAMS NECESSARY FOR SAME</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Yes, in Colonel Jackson's report, the reservoir capacity which would be available behind nine dams on the Yuba, Bear and American Rivers would be 375,700,000 cubic yards of debris and these nine dams would cost about $12,085,600 and the average units cost for all of them for storage would therefore be $0.0286 per cubic yard, or practically three cents per cubic yard.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WOULD IT NOT BE VASTLY MORE BENEFICIAL TO THE WHOLE STATE IF IN PLACE OF HAVING THE STATE AND FEDERAL GOVERNMENTS BUILD THESE DAMS AND HAVE SOME 375 MILLION CUBIC YDS. OF DEBRIS STORED BEHIND THEM IN SAY THE NEXT 20 YEARS, THAT THIS STORAGE AREA BE RETAINED FOR THE STORAGE OF WATER FOR THE FUTURE NEEDS OF THE STATE</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: That question "hits the nail right on the head" and brings out our chief contention that it would be the height of folly for the State to go into partnership with a private industry, which, if it proved successful would mean that the State would reap no profit whatever, but on the other hand, would help in losing reservoir space for the storage of water for the future needs of the agricultural interests in the State.  Colonel Jackson in his report particularly called attention to this matter in the case of the proposed dam at the Narrows on the Yuba River and behind which the capacity for storage for debris would be almost three times greater than the storage of any of the other eight dams; this dam would be the most expensive, the estimate being $3,524,000 and the storage was to be 117,000,000 cubic yards of debris; Colonel Jackson stated in connection with this proposed dam, "even though present plans may appear feasible to use this site for storage of debris without interference with its primary purpose of irrigation, this Commission feels that the project of which the site is an essential unit, is so vital to the welfare of the State as to preclude it from this investigation."  This meant that it would conflict with the State's plan for the conservation of water.</P>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WAS THERE NOT SOME PROPOSITION OFFERED BY A POWER COMPANY IN CONNECTION WITH THIS DAM AT THE NARROWS</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Yes, the Yuba River Power Company made an offer that it would build this dam and sell outright for $1,500,000 some 350,000,000 cubic yards of storage space for debris.  This dam had been planned as a commercial venture involving a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">IS THE WATER PROBLEM NOW SERIOUS IN SOME PORTIONS OF THIS STATE</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: For centuries in the past the melting snows of the Sierra Nevadas filled the streams that poured into the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys and underneath the floor of the Valley millions of acre feet of water were stored.  Rapid advances in agriculture made necessary the pumping of water from wells throughout these valleys and this has resulted in the lowering of that water table so that at present, in several of the counties of the San Joaquin Valley, the situation is getting alarming, and in the Sacramento Valley it would appear that in a few years a similar serious lowering of the water tables will occur.  The first motor driven pump for irrigation was installed in Tulare County in 1901 and there was no water problem then, but records show that during the past four years, 400 wells have been abandoned in Tulare County and 1500 others have been deepened and their lifting capacity increased.  Practically in 30 years this great underground reservoir in the San Joaquin has been largely dissipated and today the question is, whether or not surplus flood waters of the Sacramento River and its tributaries, now flowing into the ocean, can be diverted in the San Joaquin Valley to care for their increasing needs.  According to Bulletin No. 12, <HI REND="italics">Water Resources of California</HI>
136.sgm:<P>QUESTION:  <HI REND="italics">WELL, THIS HAS ALL BEEN VERY INTERESTING AND INSTRUCTIVE.  WE DO NOT KNOW OF ANY MORE QUESTIONS TO ASK.  HAVE YOU ANYTHING TO SUGGEST</HI>
136.sgm:<P>ANSWER: Yes, I would suggest that you consider all of these matters very carefully and seriously and that when you vote on this question next November, that you will come to the same conclusion that the Federal Government's Engineers have arrived at, that it would be unwise to enter into partnership with a private industry and that the State of California should not do so either.  Also that you conclude that it is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Water Conservation Project Referendum Election in December 1933</P>
136.sgm:<P>AFTER many years of investigation, surveys and close studies, entailing an expenditure of about one million dollars, the Water Conservation Plan for the State was formulated, for the conservation, development and distribution of the water resources of California.  The plan was investigated and received approval by the Chief of Engineers of the United States War Department in June 27, 1933; by the United States Bureau of Reclamation on July 7, 1933 and by the United States Senate Committee on Irrigation and Reclamation in February 1933.  In formulating the plan, assistance was also rendered by boards of consulting engineers and by University of California economic, agricultural and irrigation experts.  After a careful study of the Report, I came to the conclusion that it was a very excellent program; that there was immediate need for some portions of the plan but that eventually, as necessity demanded, other portions of the plan would also be carried out and, as the future development of the State, particularly agricultural development, would be limited only by its water supply, that it would be only a question of time before all the plan was eventually carried to completion.</P>
136.sgm:<P>What impressed me greatly were the results which could be accomplished by the construction of the Kennett Dam.  It would assist in flood control, salanity control, restore navigation to Red Bluff (and incidentally, partially to Marysville), seepage with resultant higher underground water table, and competition with power companies with resultant cheaper power.  Many realized the fact that it would be good business to store for summer use, some of the immense amount of water which was permitted to go to waste to the ocean during winter months but few realized the amount of such waste; few persons knew that the Sacramento River drained twenty counties in California while the Mississippi River drained thirty-one states; yet the discharge in the Sacramento River in the 1907 flood was 600,000 second feet which was one third of the greatest flood discharge of the Mississippi River.  Again, it was estimated that seventy-five per cent of the State's water ran to waste each year and during the summer months, water was badly needed; in the lower end of the San Joaquin Valley, over 200,000 acres of highly developed lands were now waste because of lack of water and another 200,000 acres were gradually getting in the same condition; in the Santa <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>The plan was brought before the Legislature in 1933 and was approved, the combined vote of the Senate and Assembly being 81 votes for adoption and 26 votes against adoption.  Just previous to its adoption, an amendment had been added to provide for a power transmission line, from the Kennett Dam to Antioch to permit of convenient distribution of electrical energy to load centers traversed thereby, or capable of service therefrom.  Up to this time the "power trust" was complacently looking on, anticipating the time when the Kennett Dam and Power House were constructed and they would then step in and without any investment, except for some additional distributing system, contract for the power developed and absorb same into their system, but this amendment raised their ire, they foresaw competition and immediately a fight was promised.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This culminated in a special referendum election to be held in the State on December 19, 1933, to give the people an opportunity to express their approval or disapproval to the project.  I made up my mind that I would get behind the project and render it whatever assistance I could.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The first "local gun" to be fired against the project was an editorial in the <HI REND="italics">Appeal-Democrat</HI>
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136.sgm:<P>To combat this, a State Water Plan Association was formed, with headquarters at Sacramento with Mr. Bradford S. Crittenden of Stockton as President, Mr. I. N. Inman of Sacramento as Vice-President and Mr. P. D. Nowell of Tulare as Secretary.  Funds were raised by donations from various people, firms and corporations from all over the State, speakers were engaged to appear at various places, much literature was circulated and an energetic campaign of truthful information and education started.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Personally, I made up a mailing list for my own use, covering members of Boards of Supervisors, City officials, newspapers, Chambers of Commerce, members of the Legislature, Farm Bureaus and Grange organizations, etc., throughout the State and of course, a large number of people of Yuba and Sutter Counties as well as Butte and Yolo Counties.  I had circulars printed from time to time giving reasons why they should vote in favor of the Water Conservation Legislation; I mailed out thousands of these circulars and expended about $800 of my own money in so doing; I was determined, if possible, to have Yuba County at least make a favorable showing.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Locally, Senator Rich, Senator Deuel, and Assemblyman Frazier were out campaigning against the project, making speeches at many places before service clubs, farm bureau meetings, etc., and I made an effort to follow them up at these same places making talks and combatting their arguments and showing the misinformation which they were disseminating.  For about two months, I had engagements at various places in the surrounding counties and as most of these meetings were held in the evening and some were at quite long distances, my night sleeping hours were cut rather short.  I had many amusing and interesting experiences, particularly on several occasions when I had to debate the matter with some speaker opposite the stand I was taking.</P>
136.sgm:<P>My circulars appeared to "go over" well; the Chairman of the Campaign Committee, wrote me, saying, "You have certainly put up a grand battle and I know that every one associated with our fight is for you a million.  If we had more like you, there would be no doubt of the result."  They also offered to reimburse me for my expense but I declined, explaining that in my circulars I stated that I was editing my circulars and circulating them at my own expense.  Attorney General U.S. Webb on December 18th wrote me stating, "The results of tomorrow's election cannot this evening be told, but I wish to express to you my appreciation and obligation as a citizen of California for the splendid work that you have done in the advocacy of the Central Valley Project Act.  You have rendered herculean service at your own cost, and if the project wins, to you, in a large degree, will be the credit, etc."  Congressman Clarence F. Lea at Washington was on my mailing list and on January 15th wrote, "yours have been the best articles I have read on the subject, etc."  In Tulare County, where there was tremendous interest in the project because of their water difficulties, I had a number of persons on my mailing list and the Campaign Committee wrote, telling me that they were reprinting my circulars and broadcasting them through the mails.  Mr. Pat Nowell was the Chairman of this Tulare Committee and the publisher of the local <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>At the present writing, it is rather amusing to me, to see many of those who opposed the project are now in favor of it but of course many of them are politicians who "have their ear on the ground."  Their "alibi" now would be that the financial plan at present is so much different; that now there will be no liens of any kind on real estate in the State, which latter was one of their misrepresentations made during the election, the actual fact being, that at that time, the Federal Government proposed to make a "present," called a "grant" of $43,606,000 and the balance required, of $123,319,000 was to be obtained by the sale of "revenue bonds," the security to be only from the revenue from the sale of water and power and the State Act provided that on the face of each bond a recital that "neither the payment of the principal, or any part thereof, or any interest, constitutes a debt liability or obligation of the State of California."  The proposed plan of financing was exactly the same as the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge and other similar structures, dams, etc.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As for the Power Company, which was instrumental in having and financing the referendum election, during the election period, they were broadcasting statements that there were already too many power plants in the State; that there would be no demand or market for the power which would be generated at the Kennett Dam, etc.  Since then, and within the last year, they are asking permission to build six more power plants to care for the increased demand.  Their arguments before the election have turned out to be as unstable as a two legged stool and now they are trying to cripple the future disposal of the proposed power development at the Kennett Dam, by the construction of more new power plants and so seriously interfere with the Water Conservation Plan.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Well, as I write this, the Kennett and Friant Dams are "on their way" for construction, now backed by the Federal Government.  Ultimately, as the necessity requires, other dams in various parts of the State will also be constructed, as called for in the general plan and again ultimately, possibly fifty years or more, the entire project will be completed.  In the meantime, the Sacramento Valley will enjoy the first benefits from the construction of the Kennett Dam as it will, with its storage capacity of 2,940,000 acre feet of water, give salanity control in the lower reaches of the river; make possible again navigation further upstream, to Red Bluff, as in early days; raise the underground water table in large areas of the valley floor; cheaper power to communities and also, furnish an additional factor of safety in that portion of the flood control project which lies north of the latitude of Knight's Landing.</P>
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136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Meeting of Hydraulic Miners Association in Marysville</P>
136.sgm:<P>ON APRIL 25, 1936, a rather unprecedented thing occurred.  It was a meeting of the California Hydraulic Mining Association in the City of Marysville.  The meeting had been arranged by some representatives of the Marysville Merchants Association with the idea of discussing the proposal of having a concrete restraining dam constructed by the Federal Government, about three-quarters of a mile upstream from the Narrows on the Yuba River at Smartsville and obtaining cooperation on the part of the people of Marysville.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The proposed plan contemplated a dam 237 feet in height, to cost about $3,600,000, the funds to be advanced by the Federal Government, this including an operation cost of $247,000 for that period of time.  It was estimated that the total sum advanced from the Government could be amortized in 20 years by the storage of 118,000,000 cubic yards of debris at a cost of 3.89 cents per cubic yard, bank measurement.  The available gravel to be mined was estimated at 536,000,000 cubic yards.  The expected gold recovery was estimated to average 19 1/2 cents per cubic yard (this at the new price of gold).</P>
136.sgm:<P>The discussion at the meeting was principally by the members of the Miner's Association present, and while listening to the various speakers and in looking at all those present, I realized that I was the only one present who had taken an active part in the old hydraulic mining controversy, some fifty years ago, all the rest had departed this life.  My sense of humor also impressed me with the fact, that if any of those old time anti-hydraulic mining colleagues of mine, were in a position to realize that a meeting of hydraulic miners was actually being held in the City of Marysville and that I was present at such a meeting, that in all probabilities they would "turn over in their graves" in protest.  When I was finally called on to give a talk, I reminded those present of those thoughts which I had and then told them, I had prepared a written statement to make to them, so that there would be no misunderstanding afterwards as to what I had said and no misconstruction arise.  I then read to them the following statement:</P>
136.sgm:<P>"1.  The Judge Lorenzo Sawyer decision of 1884, in the United States Circuit Court, did not declare that hydraulic mining was illegal, but it did state that the dumping of the by-products (debris) from hydraulic mining into the rivers was illegal and that was what the valley interests were contending for; we never objected to hydraulic mining itself and do not now, but when we observed with much trepidation the filling of the rivers, resulting in immense loss and damage when the rivers overflowed, not only their banks, but also the levees which we were compelled to construct, and observed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>2.  In proof of the above statement that we did not object to the hydraulic process of mining itself, but only to the dumping of debris into the rivers, might I not call attention to the fact, that in 1893, when the Caminetti act was adopted by Congress, placing the control of hydraulic mining and the licensing of hydraulic mining under the control of the California Debris Commission (as it is today), that since that time, 1,163 licenses have been so issued to mine by the hydraulic process and 60 mines are now licensed and in every case, published notice has been given by that commission on each application, giving anyone an opportunity to appear and make any protest, but the valley interests have never in one single case ever appeared to make any protest, we feeling at all times, that the California Debris Commission would be fair to both sides and impartial in their decisions; and remember, that the Caminetti act was a creation of the hydraulic mining interests and not by the valley interests.</P>
136.sgm:<P>3.  In view of the above statements, we of the valley, if we are to be consistent, have no right to make any objections to the mining interests to plan for the rehabilitation of hydraulic mining and the attempt to obtain a loan of Federal funds to finance the construction of dams to restrain debris from the rivers, provided:</P>
136.sgm:<P>(a)  That any dams so constructed will be substantially built and on plans first approved by State and Federal authorities; also that the dams are to be approved by State and Federal authorities as not in conflict with the State's water conservation plan.</P>
136.sgm:<P>(b)  That some plan be made for the perpetual care and maintenance of such dams, because, assuming that the dams were constructed, and in following years the storage area behind them largely filled with debris, mining then cease, the Federal funds loaned having been repaid and possibly no available income to be had from generation of power to provide for proper maintenance, we would then be placed in the position of always having a very dangerous menace "hanging over our heads," which would not inspire confidence and would retard development, as an uncared-for dam, largely filled with debris would be a greater menace than an uncared-for dam filled only with water, for reasons which should be obvious to any average layman as well as to any hydraulic engineer.</P>
136.sgm:<P>(c)  It must be remembered that the American, Bear and Yuba rivers are torrential streams and attain a great velocity.  The Yuba River at the narrows near Smartsville, under the present conditions and with a maximum flow of over 110,000 second feet, attains a bottom velocity of perhaps 14 feet per second.  If a dam should be built at or near the narrows to a height of say 220 feet with a crest of about 800 feet, the velocity at the crest would be possibly 10 feet per second, which is sufficient to carry debris of a very coarse nature, so to avoid possible future difficulties, the amount of debris to be stored behind the dam should be controlled within rigidly prescribed limits.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>If the Hydraulic Mining Debris Dam is Constructed Near Smartsville, Will the Charge for Storage Repay the Government for its Investment and Can the Mines Afford to Pay the Storage Charge</P>
136.sgm:<P>I AM NOT going to attempt to answer the question; I will, however, call attention to an article, printed in the Marysville <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm: on January 16, 1884, which article was copied from the Grass Valley <HI REND="italics">Tidings</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"That gold in the ground of the old river channels must come out.  There is too much of the metal for which all the world is hungry in that ground for idleness to sit on the hills that cover the old river channels.  Water has for the last many years been doing most of the digging up on those old river channels, and water did not eat food or wear clothes.  It is said that men will now be put to work in several of the mines in which hydraulic nozzles have been at work, and the men of course will have to be supplied with things that water never used.  If this is true the future working of the deep gravel mines will give a better market for food and clothing products, and for transportation, than has been the case for many years.  The only question is, will the mines pay when they are worked by human drifters in the place of the tearing-down hydraulic machines?  Some of those mines will so pay and some will not.  The Derbee drift mine, adjoining the North Bloomfield, has paid.  It is said that very much of the North Bloomfield can be drifted with more profit to the owners than could be worked by the hydraulic process.  The same of the Milton Company's ground at French Corral.  Indeed it is asserted that the North Bloomfield has run behind, during its years of hydraulic workings, in the sum of $1,700,000 on its water account alone.  And so water, it seems, while working cheaply, costs big money to those employing it, and at the same time demands but little of the products of the farm and the factory.  Therefore we expect that, as soon as the matter can be fully looked over by the mine owners, there will be many drift enterprises inaugurated in that part of Nevada County that we call the Ridge.  The most useless and unprofitable cry one can indulge in is that over split milk.  No matter who caused the spill, don't cry, but go to work and milk another cow.  Drift the gravel mines."</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Another article, printed in the <HI REND="italics">Appeal</HI>
136.sgm: on January 12th as having been copied from the Grass Valley <HI REND="italics">Tidings</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"The Blue Tent Hydraulic Mining Company are deeply involved financially and have stopped operations.  It is reported that the Blue Tent owes the California Powder Company $70,000, and is without a dollar to meet the demand.  It is said the mine has been sold recently for $15,000 and purchased by one of the creditors with the expectation that the Powder Company would pay the purchase price and take the mine.  But it is understood that the Powder Company has all the claims against the Blue Tent it wants.  This mine is owned by foreign capitalists, who will probably lose a large amount of money in their investment."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Drift mining, however, has always been largely neglected, but the advance in the price of gold has of late attracted capital to that method of mining.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Under date of September 24, 1937, James D. Stewart, had an article in the Sacramento <HI REND="italics">Bee</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"Read the history of the Bald Mountain drift mine in Sierra County, of Harold T. Power's operations of the Hidden Treasure at Sunny South, of Harry Simond's steady stream of dividends from the Morning Star at Iowa Hill, of the fortunes paid to Columbus Waterhouse from the Big Dipper mine at the same place, of the Midas hoard that Ah Tia wooed from Browns Hill near You Bet after white miners had, as they thought, taken the cream, and of the Indiana Hill operation by the writer's father, James Stewart, near Gold Run.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"These are but high spots in profitable drift operations and yet wiseacres and timid souls will say that no more such spots exist.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The writer believes that fabulous stores of gold still are to be won from California's drift mines if capital will employ competent engineering talent and spend its money in new and unexplored fields instead of listening to Aladdin stories from promoters' lips.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"The expression that California's gold fields have scarcely been scratched is hardly correct.  They have been scratched; what is needed is deeper exploration."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Referring again to the question as to whether the Federal Government will ever receive its money back for the cost of the proposed dam near Smartsville, by charging possibly three or more cents per cubic yard for such storage, (the actual price to depend upon the cost of the dam) then, in my opinion, even though the Federal Government did not eventually get all its investment back, still the use of Federal funds exclusively would be justified, as I will now attempt to show.</P>
136.sgm:<P>We opposed both the Cloudman and the Seawell Bills because of their proposal to have the State go into "partnership" with a private industry; that if it was logical for the State to build dams so that hydraulic mining could be operated behind such dams, then it was logical for the State to construct buildings to house a hardware business, a dry goods business, a furniture business or a garage business; I mention these four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CIV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>My First and Only Law Suit</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN 1915, I had control of about 320 acres of first class bare land situated four miles north of Marysville.  At that time viticulture and horticulture were exceedingly profitable and I decided to embark in these lines.  Many other business men in Marysville did the same, generally to their regret.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Knowing nothing of the technique, I looked about and finally secured the services of L. J. Fallon.  I gave him instructions to use his own udgment and plant about 50 acres of Thompson Seedless grapes and 50 acres of prunes.  I will say that he did a first class job, was a good manager and stayed with me until I disposed of the property twelve years later.  The place was fully equipped in every way but had required more money than I had estimated for development, so I looked about for additional funds.</P>
136.sgm:<P>We had a mortgage on the Ellis Block in Marysville at that time of $40,000 and a mortgage on the ranch of $25,000.  Our first crop of raisins sold for 18 1/2c per pound <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>When production at the ranch reached its peak, prices commenced slowly to decline.  The construction of the new Hotel Marysville started an up-town business move; our tenants either moved or demanded lower rents and the big fire in the Ellis Block was demoralizing.  The approach of the "great depression" of '29 commenced to be felt but, in the meantime, we had made our annual payments of $5000 and the interest had been paid promptly each month.  We had, in fact, reduced the principal of the mortgage to $60,000, when one month we failed to meet the monthly interest payment and I received a letter asking me to come to San Francisco immediately.  I did so and arranged to meet the interest payment within two weeks.  They then told me that the next time I delayed in the payment "the matter will be placed in the hands of our attorneys."  The following month I was again unable to meet the interest payment and received a notice from the Bank's attorneys to come to San Francisco to see them.  I decided against this but sent a friend to make them a proposal that if they would "lay off" me for twelve months, in the meantime, I would send them each month all the rents I received from the property, less such items as janitor, gas, lights and water and other bills for upkeep, and that if at the end of twelve months I could not make arrangements to meet the monthly interest payments, I would deed the Ellis Block over to them.</P>
136.sgm:<P>They demurred, but finally agreed.  Their representatives came to Marysville, looked over the property and informed me that they would recommend the acceptance of my offer.  Nothing was heard from them, but one day in October, 1931, their attorney, George A. Clough, Esq., appeared before the Superior Court of Yuba County, Judge Mahon, presiding, and representing that the Ellis Estate Co. owed the bank $60,000 balance and some taxes which had been paid by it, and that the bank's interest was suffering, asked the Court to appoint a Receiver.  No one appeared to oppose this (as I had not been given any notice) and the bank's request was granted, Mr. C. F. Aaron being appointed as Receiver.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The following day I learned what had happened and, being greatly surprised at this action on the part of the bank, I consulted my attorney, Mr. Richard Belcher, and he commenced proceedings for a hearing before the Court to discharge the Receiver.  This was held on November 27, 1931; we had the testimony of three local bankers, the County Assessor and the City Assessor and they agreed that the property was worth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>After this hearing, the Court discharged the Receiver and the bank immediately took an appeal and notified the tenants to pay no attention to the Court order but to continue to pay their rent to the Receiver, which resulted in my collecting approximately half of the rents for about fourteen months, and Mr. Aaron's collecting the other half.</P>
136.sgm:<P>This litigation continued in its various phases until 1936, and went to the higher Courts of the State five times.  The decisions are reported as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Hibernia Savings &amp; Loan vs. Superior Court, 126 Cal. App. 397;</P>
136.sgm:<P>Hibernia Savings &amp; Loan vs. The Ellis Estate Co., 216 Cal. App. 280;</P>
136.sgm:<P>Hibernia Savings &amp; Loan vs. The Ellis Estate Co., 132 Cal. App. 408;</P>
136.sgm:<P>Hibernia Savings &amp; Loan vs. Richard Belcher, 4 Cal. (2nd) 270;</P>
136.sgm:<P>Belcher vs. Aaron, 93 Cal. Dec. 90 (not yet permanently bound).</P>
136.sgm:<P>Explaining these actions, during its entire existence the bank had taken mortgages rather than deeds of trust.  These mortgages contained a power of sale similar to that contained in a deed of trust.  The bank attempted to sell the property under this power of sale and also to carry on at the same time a foreclosure suit with the idea that after the sale under the power, they would be able to obtain a deficiency judgment in the foreclosure suit.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In addition to the above actions, we commenced an action to prohibit the sale under the power of sale in the mortgage and ultimately received an order to that effect, from which the bank did not appeal.  We thought this was because of the fact that, according to its own admission, they had forty-five million dollars worth of mortgages containing this power of sale clause, largely in San Francisco and Oakland, and such an injunction would have been extremely embarrassing to it in these mortgages.</P>
136.sgm:<P>As a result of all this litigation the foreclosure sale under judgment was postponed fourteen months, after which I had a year's right of redemption.  During the fourteen months, as I have stated, I collected a portion of the rents and at the sale we demanded a sale in parcels, which would enable me to redeem any one or more of the four lots covered by the so-called Ellis Block.  Unfortunately I was not able to so redeem any of them at the end of the 12 months.  My attorney during all this litigation had done a large amount of legal work and I had only paid him $200, which was much less than the actual costs, so when the time rolled around for the judgment in the foreclosure suit, I had a meeting of the Directors of the Ellis Estate Company and a formal resolution was passed agreeing to turn over to him for his services all moneys which were collected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>During the five years litigation, The Ellis Estate Company won every suit against it, but for lack of money lost its properties.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I, personally, had the satisfaction of collecting half the rents for fourteen months and established the legal principle that the Estate Company was right, and demonstrating that while the bank had for many years been foreclosing on these mortgages with the unusual power of sale clause in the Bay area, it required a country lawyer in one of the "cow counties" to determine that the Big City Bank with a staff of high-priced attorneys was not as smart as it considered itself to be.  These suits were before four Superior Court judges, about six Appellate Court judges and seven Supreme Court judges.  The suits attracted widespread attention and my attorney received a number of letters from various parties throughout the State who had lost their properties through foreclosure by the bank under this unusual sales clause, desiring information as to how a country lawyer had outsmarted the Big City Bank.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I presume to this day, that the Hibernia Bank is under the impression that I received a good portion of the few thousand dollars which was finally turned over to me by Court order.  Such is not the case, however, as I turned over to my attorney, Mr. Belcher, the entire sum received in payment for his services, as I had verbally agreed with him to do.  I had reached the point where I was not after any money, I just wanted my attorney to give this bank "all that was coming to them" in the shape of litigation, and he certainly did so.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CV</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Committee of Five</P>
136.sgm:<P>AFTER the big floods in the Mississippi River in April 1927 it was realized that Congress would be "flood minded," so I joined with others in the Sacramento Valley in cooperating with the State Reclamation Board to obtain further funds to complete the Sacramento Valley Flood Control project, knowing that Congress would no doubt make liberal contributions to the Mississippi River area and we stood a good chance also to obtain funds for California.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Major U. S. Grant III under date of January 5, 1925 made a report on the amount of necessary funds which would be required to complete the project; this report was sent to the Chief of Engineers at Washington, further information was forwarded by the State Reclamation Board and the State Engineering Department, the State's Senators and Congressmen were given necessary information and when a huge appropriation was made for the Mississippi, it also carried an appropriation of a million dollars a year for seventeen years, contingent upon the State of California making a like contribution.  Credit for this legislation, so important to the State at large and the Sacramento Valley in particular, is mainly due to Senator Hiram W. Johnson and Congressman Curry.  Legislation was introduced in the State Legislature to that effect, it was successful and a contract entered into between the State and the Federal Government for the completion of the Flood Control project.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The Federal Government's interests were to be looked out for by the California Debris Commission, the State's interests were to be looked out for by the State Reclamation Board, while the people's interests were to be looked out for by the State Association of Reclamation Districts.  This latter had a large number of Directors, so at a meeting of that Board of Directors, the President Mr. W. T. Spencer was directed to select a committee of five men to represent the Association.  Mr. Spencer selected George A. Atherton of Stockton to represent the lower delta region of the river; Mr. J. A. Ashley of Woodland to represent the Yolo Basin area; Mr. Jewell Boggs to represent the Colusa Basin area and George E. Springer of San Francisco to represent Butte and Sutter Basins and Mr. Spencer then asked me to represent the Bear, Yuba, Feather and American basin areas.  I told him that I could not do so, that the depression "had got me" and I could no longer afford to give my time, as I had been doing for many years past.  Finally he contacted some of the reclamation interests about here; Mr. J. U. Pearson, representing District No. 784 called a meeting at which were present the Directors of District No. 10, No. 9, No. 1, No. 777 and No. 784.  The matter was discussed and finally I agreed to take the job when those Districts represented offered to each put up $25 per month, making a total of $125 per month to cover my services and expenses.  As usual in such cases, some of the Districts paid for a short time, others did not pay and for the next four years, when I put in a lot of time and effort in this matter, I averaged $28.75 per month, which did not pay my actual expenses; however, I was interested in such work and had continued to serve.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When the money became available for this new work, I immediately made claim that some of the first work performed should be in the lower end of District No. 784, immediately north of Bear River and where an entirely new levee was to be constructed.  District No. 784 then was in financial distress and they had to furnish the rights of way for the new levee; I called a meeting at my office of the other Districts on both sides of the Feather River, explaining the importance of having the work commenced on the Feather River immediately and the benefits to be derived and the difficulty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>County of Yuba<HSEP>$  500.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville Levee Commission<HSEP>3,173.40</P>
136.sgm:<P>District No. 1 of Sutter County<HSEP>5,289.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>District No. 10 of Yuba County<HSEP>1,939.30</P>
136.sgm:<P>District No. 9 of Sutter County<HSEP>2,644.50</P>
136.sgm:<P>District No. 777 of Sutter County<HSEP>1,090.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>Farm Land Investment Company<HSEP>1,876.65</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total<HSEP>$16,512.85</P>
136.sgm:<P>These monies were deposited in the Bank of America to the credit of W. T. Ellis and J. U. Pearson, and we paid same out for the following rights of way:</P>
136.sgm:<P>John and Ameda Frobar<HSEP>$ 2,744.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>John D. Hutchinson<HSEP>8,216.35</P>
136.sgm:<P>M. R. Hammon<HSEP>1,500.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>C. F. Lily<HSEP>2,488.50</P>
136.sgm:<P>E. M. Hammon<HSEP>1,564.00</P>
136.sgm:<P>Total<HSEP>$16,512.85</P>
136.sgm:<P>At the west side of the "Lake of the Woods," there was an old levee break which had never been repaired; to have it repaired, the estimated cost was $40,000, as the new levee was to be on the east side of the Lake of the Woods and that new levee was to be a much more substantial levee for District No. 784.  After considerable negotiations with Mr. Mortimer Fleishhacker, San Francisco banker, and the Directors of District No. 784, it was arranged to have Mr. Fleishhacker advance the monies for the Farm Land Investment Company's right of way properties and also agree to advance the sum of $40,000, which sum would represent the amount which would have been necessary to be expended, if the old break in the original levee had been repaired by the District itself.</P>
136.sgm:<P>With these matters arranged for, work was commenced on building a section of the new levee and in successive years, more work of raising the balance of the levees on opposite sides of the Feather River, progressed where work was necessary until (at this writing) the Feather River project is approximately 90 per cent complete.  Our Committee was very active and we had many problems to solve.  On July 14, 1930 the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Our Committee each year would formulate a budget of proposed expenditures at various places and submit same to the Reclamation Board for their approval.  One of these budgets was objected to by the Reclamation Board and I was asked to appear before the Board and show some good reason why I was obtaining so much of the available annual monies for the Feather River area which I represented.  I had come prepared and demonstrated that the Feather River project was the most important project of the entire plan; that there were nine reclamation districts vitally interested, that these nine districts represented 213,733 acres, the greater portion being more highly improved and more thickly populated than any other portion of the entire project and when floods occurred, there was greater financial loss to that area than any other area of the valley; the Board made no further objections.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Our Committee of Five, had no official standing, it was simply the spokesmen for the landowners and so, accorded the courtesy of making recommendations, which in most instances were acted favorably upon.  Our Committee also did very considerable work during sessions of the Legislature, carefully considering any and all legislation affecting reclamation districts.  It was a "labor of love" as we received no salaries, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>My experience has been, that there are so many people, who singly and collectively will take a great interest in some public matter and then, when the real work of "putting it over" commences, will say, "let George do it."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Appreciation is very much like friendship; some years ago I was flattered by a gracious lady who observed, "you seem to have so many real friends."  My ego ballooned with the realization she was right and it struck me at the time how unappreciative most of us are of the deeper meaning of friendship.  Later on came the "depression" and I took "a good licking"; this was then followed by a local bank failure in which I had all my funds except about $75 in my office safe and quite a large sum due my insurance companies, which I was then unable to pay.  I was in desperate need of a friend to whom I could turn in a full and revealing confidence.  My mind was flooded with names, but out of the turbulent array, I was only able to salvage two who seemed to measure up to the requirements, and they were out of town.  I had about come to the conclusion that friendship and appreciation were the greatest illusions in life, when my Secretary, Mrs. Jessie Hafferty, whom I had told I would have to dispense with her services as I was unable to pay her, told me she would work for me for nothing until I could again afford to do so; I still think that was just about the nicest thing that ever happened to me.  We then wrote letters to our insurance companies, telling them what had happened and asking what I could do about it.  Then another nice thing occurred, they all replied, telling me to continue to send them business and to pay them whenever I could; they never sent me a "dun" although it took me a couple of years to "square accounts" with them.</P>
136.sgm:<P>I had always been an optimist; well, after that experience, I continued to be one and immediately modified my suddenly acquired view, that friendship and appreciation were "the greatest illusions in life."</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CVI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Is the Flood Control Plan Designed to Safely Control Any Floods Which May Occur?</P>
136.sgm:<P>THE answer is, <HI REND="italics">it does not</HI>
136.sgm:<P>"It is considered advisable, therefore, by this Commission to provide capacity for a flood of the extent and duration of that of March, 1907, or January, 1909, and that provision for anything less would be not only unwise but unjustifiable."  (See Page 99, paragraph 68, Extract from House Report No. 616.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>In other words, a flood discharge as in 1861-62 was not taken into account, simply <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Neither during the maximum floods of 1907 or 1909, or since then, did the fishermen in San Francisco Bay frequently catch "freshwater fish for from two to three months" after the floods had subsided; neither did the "entire surface of the bay consist of fresh water, to the depth of eighteen to twenty inches"; neither also, "for nearly a fortnight," was "the stream on the surface continuously flowing towards the Pacific (at the Golden Gate), composed entirely of fresh water, the tide not affecting the surface flow," and as described in Chapter 62 herein.  When is history going to repeat the occurrences of the flood of 1861-62, which all Engineers will admit, had a vastly greater discharge than had the floods of 1907 or 1909?  No one can answer that question but some future winter, it will no doubt occur.</P>
136.sgm:<P>While a substantial raise in a river is generally referred to as a "flood," and I also use the same term, in my own mind, I segregate "floods" as follows;-- "freshets," "floods," "maximum floods" and "super-maximum floods."  My definition would be as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>A "freshet" would be say 50 per cent of a high water mark discharge of a river.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A "flood" would be say 75 per cent of a high water mark discharge of a river.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A "maximum flood" would be one which reaches previous high water marks and which occurs about every twenty years or so.</P>
136.sgm:<P>A "super-maximum flood" is one which occurs about every seventy-five to one hundred years, such as happened seventy-seven years ago in the Sacramento Valley in 1861-62.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Most all large rivers of Europe and Asia have records of such "super-maximum floods" for many centuries past and at such above mentioned long intervals.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In a previous chapter, I have stated that whenever there is a repetition of the 1861-62 floods, that after such a flood has subsided, it will be ascertained that there were two dry spots in the Sacramento Valley and they were Marysville and the Sutter Buttes, and I stand by that statement, <HI REND="italics">provided</HI>
136.sgm: that the same close care and attention is kept in the future, as has been done in the past, to the Marysville levees.  From personal observation I believe that improper care and neglect occurs in at least seventy-five per cent of the levee systems in the Valley.  It is criminal, how careless and neglectful some Levee Directors are.  After the last December flood (1937), I wrote the Reclamation Board, suggesting that some law should be passed giving, either to the State Reclamation Board or the State Engineering Department, general supervision over all levee <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Returning to the subject of "super-maximum floods" and flood discharge, the average layman does not realize the magnitude of flood discharge of the Sacramento River and its tributaries.  Just as a matter of comparison, the following may be of interest:</P>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Mississippi River</HI>
136.sgm: has a drainage area of 1,100,000 square miles and a recorded discharge at its mouth of<HSEP>1,777,000 second feet</P>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Missouri River</HI>
136.sgm: has a drainage area of 527,000 square miles and a recorded discharge at its mouth of<HSEP>546,000 second feet</P>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Columbia River</HI>
136.sgm: has a drainage area of 237,000 square miles and a recorded discharge at its mouth of<HSEP>1,390,000 second feet</P>
136.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sacramento River</HI>
136.sgm: has a drainage area of only 26,000 square miles and a recorded discharge at its mouth in 1907 of<HSEP>600,000 second feet</P>
136.sgm:<P>It will be seen from the above, that the Sacramento River with about one-ninth the drainage area as has the Columbia River, discharges almost one-half as much water as does the Columbia, and unquestionably the discharge of 600,000 second feet on the Sacramento River in 1907 was vastly exceeded in the winter of 1861-62.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CVII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Yuba County</P>
136.sgm:<P>YUBA COUNTY was founded on February 18, 1850; it was one of the original counties founded and at that time included the present counties of Nevada, Sierra, and a portion of Placer County.  The area of the County now is 633 square miles or 405,120 acres and roughly consists of about 150,000 acres of mountains, 150,000 acres of foothills and the remaining 105, 120 acres being valley land, the greater portion of which is very productive soil, farm acreage having about doubled since 1920, at the present time, there being 750 farms, about seventy-five per cent of them being in the valley area.</P>
136.sgm:<P>In the valley area, the average precipitation over a 76 year period has been 18.69 inches, the rainy season being mainly from November to March.  The absence of rain during the summer months allows the curing of fruits, hay, etc., to proceed without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>With the soil and climate, an abundance of water for irrigation is provided, for Yuba County is bordered on the north by Honcut Creek, on the south by Bear River, on the west by Feather River, while the Yuba River and tributaries flow through the center of the County and all these streams offer unfailing sources of water.  On farms, using pumps, it is seldom necessary to go as deep as 150 feet to reach an ample water supply.  Electric power is in ample supply and some of the irrigation companies furnish water for the season as low as $1.50 per acre.  There are about 700 miles of County roads of which about 150 miles are well surfaced, the balance being mostly unimproved graveled roads, mainly in the mountain area.  In addition, there are about 25 miles of State controlled highways, all paved.  As for crops, they are diversified, consisting of vineyards, orchards of all kinds, field crops of all kinds, also livestock of all kinds and lumbering.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Yuba County stands forth in a bright light in the summary of business improvement in California which shows that retail sales increased 59.5 per cent in 1935 as compared with the depression bottom of 1933.  This figure contrasts with a statewide recovery of 38 per cent.  The assessment roll of the County now (1937) is $19,361,320 as compared with $15,710,195 five years ago.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Various School Districts in the County have a combined bonded debt of $245,000 but the County, as a County itself, has no bonded debt and has not had for about forty years.  The principal City in the County is Marysville with an assessment roll of $7,182,030; and it also has no bonded debt.  Both the City and the County have a record to be proud of.</P>
136.sgm:<P>According to the United States Census report, Yuba County in 1930 had 548 farms with an average size of 474 acres, but in 1937 the report shows that the number of farms had increased to 750 with an average size of 401 acres.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Yuba County as a gold producer stood first in the State for many years and still commands a leading position.  In 1936 it showed a marked increase over 1935, the production being 81,358 fine ounces of gold worth $2,847,530 this gold being produced by eight lode and sixteen placer mines.  In this same year Yuba County produced 4,468 fine ounces of silver worth $3,460 the above being the report of the Bureau of Mines and excludes itinerant prospectors, etc.  In Yuba County, about seven miles east of Marysville is the largest gold dredger in the world; it cost about $750,000 and its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CVIII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville as a Business Town</P>
136.sgm:<P>YEARS ago, when business men were curious to know how business in their home towm compared with business in some nearby town, the only way to get the answer was to ask travelling men representing various lines of business; they kept their finger on the "business pulse" of various towns which they visited and their judgment was good.  Many a time, we have heard such travelling men remark that while orders were scarce or perhaps none to be had, when they got to Marysville, they were always sure of good orders.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Now this is changed and the sales tax collections give the true story, and they are interesting, as the following will show:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sales tax collections for 1936:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Marysville<HSEP>$236,850.93</P>
136.sgm:<P>Chico<HSEP>216,515.31</P>
136.sgm:<P>Woodland<HSEP>136,842.87</P>
136.sgm:<P>Petaluma<HSEP>134,478.75</P>
136.sgm:<P>Oroville<HSEP>101,690.63</P>
136.sgm:<P>Red Bluff<HSEP>79,417.80</P>
136.sgm:<P>Colusa<HSEP>77,712.98</P>
136.sgm:<P>Roseville      69,530.57</P>
136.sgm:<P>As for automobile traffic between Marysville and Yuba City, on the bridge crossing the Feather River and connecting the two towns, the following count, taken by representatives of the State Highway Commission, showed as follows:</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sunday, July 12th, 1937<HSEP>11,189 vehicles</P>
136.sgm:<P>Monday, July 13th, 1937<HSEP>13,051 vehicles</P>
136.sgm:<P>Saturday, August 22nd, 1937<HSEP>17,399 vehicles</P>
136.sgm:<P>The above on a count of sixteen hours duration.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Now compare this with a count of twenty-four hours duration on the new San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge, which showed the following:</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Average figures for traffice for the months of February, March and April, 1937.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Mondays<HSEP>20,207 vehicles</P>
136.sgm:<P>Tuesdays<HSEP>20,205 vehicles</P>
136.sgm:<P>Wednesdays<HSEP>20,216 vehicles</P>
136.sgm:<P>Thursdays<HSEP>20,236 vehicles</P>
136.sgm:<P>Fridays<HSEP>21,978 vehicles</P>
136.sgm:<P>Saturdays<HSEP>25,834 vehicles</P>
136.sgm:<P>Sundays<HSEP>35,070 vehicles</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CIX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Days of Forty-Nine Celebration</P>
136.sgm:<P>IN FEBRUARY 1930 there was held a "Days of Forty-nine Celebration" by Yuba and Sutter counties, which proved to be a very much more successful event than had at first been expected.  For about a week previous to the celebration, scores of people went about the streets all dressed up in regalia such as was customary in 1849, and in this way aroused public interest, so that when the celebration was finally held, almost everyone was dressed in proper typical fashion, the women being particularly attractive in their "hoop-skirts" and tiny bonnets, the men not far behind with their high boots, woolen shirts, sombreros, heavy belts with their "shooting irons" attached.  The store windows were almost all given over for the display of old time dresses, mining equipment, gold specimens, assorted firearms, knives, etc., of every description; it was a revelation to me to find that so much rare and valuable material was kept on hand in various homes, etc., and ever since then, there has been agitation for a museum, which I hope will eventually materialize, where all these old time mementoes may be safely kept and the public have an opportunity to view them.</P>
136.sgm:<P>Thousands of people were attracted to the celebration and the parade of old time stage coaches, men on horseback, etc., was several blocks long.  On the gutters, near the sidewalks, crowds watched Chinese working sluice boxes on the main street; throngs visited the "Eldorado Saloon" in a large store room on the main street, which was fitted up with a long bar, dance hall, gambling tables of all kinds; the drinks were "real" and so was the gambling "real" as the sales of drinks and the profits from the gambling very materially assisted in paying for the expense of the celebration.</P>
136.sgm:<P>The celebration was certainly a grand success and every one joined in the spirit of recalling, "The days of old, the days of gold and the days of forty-nine."  Marysville that day certainly demonstrated that at heart, she is yet, a real Old California mining town.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DAYS OF '49 CELEBRATION  IN MARYSVILLE "THREE GAMBLERS AND A SPANISH SENORITA" DANIEL BRYANT, MRS. ARTHUR CHEIM, W. T. ELLIS AND P. T. SMITH</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<illus entity="a136-0053" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ELLIS LAKE SITUATED ABOUT THE CENTER OF THE CITY OF MARYSVILLE VIEW LOOKING SOUTH, SHOWING SOUTH HALF OF THE LAKE SPIRES OF ST. JOSEPH'S CHURCH AND THE CONVENT OF NOTRE DAME, IN THE DISTANCE</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CX</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Just Some Warnings for the Future</P>
136.sgm:<P>1.  The Marysville Levee Commission was created by an Act of the Legislature on March 6, 1876 as a result of the flood experienced by the City in the previous year.  I doubt if there is any Commission in the State which has such broad powers as this Commission, particularly as regards the borrowing of money and the levying of taxes, when any necessity should arise; this power has never been abused and it is important that it should always be retained.  The Mayor and Council, under its Charter "shall not contract any debt or liability by borrowing money, loaning the credit of the City, or otherwise, which said indebtedness shall at any time either singly or in the aggregate exceed the sum of $10,000, EXCEPT FOR LEVEE PURPOSES."</P>
136.sgm:<P>Of course, by a two-thirds vote at an election, a bond issue can be obtained but, when it comes to just plain borrowing, the Mayor and Council are limited to $10,000 but the Levee Commission, with the consent of the Mayor and Council, has no limit placed upon it.</P>
136.sgm:<P>How does this work?  Well take for example 1907 when we had a narrow escape from a flood and it was important that this work of improvement be performed promptly and be finished before winter set in.  The proposed work was estimated to cost about $80,000.  Had we been limited by a levee tax rate, that would have been a calamity except of course we could have submitted a bond issue, which ( <HI REND="italics">IF</HI>
136.sgm:<P>In 1935, two local individuals, one of whom had a personal animosity towards me, secretly conceived the idea of having the Levee Commission abolished and the management turned over to the Mayor and Council.  I "got wise" to the scheme and threatened to expose the plan to the public with the result that the plan was dropped.</P>
136.sgm:<P>SO MY ADVICE AND WARNING IS, NEVER DISCARD THE LEVEE COMMISSION ACT.</P>
136.sgm:<P>2.  Members of the City Council change every few years but in the last sixty years, since the beginning of the Levee Commission, there have been exceedingly few changes in the Levee Commission.  It has always been an "unwritten law" that the President of the Commission was the active manager and did the real work and in the last sixty years, there have been five such "managers."  Just as long as members of this Commission demonstrate that they are working harmoniously and that at least one or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>3.  The position of Levee Foreman is a most important one.  During the 38 years I have been connected with the Levee, we have had just three such Foremen, viz, Michael Long, Frank Smith and Nels Nelson; the two first mentioned stayed in turn until death overtook them; each of them not only felt "he had a job," but they realized the responsibility resting upon them and cared for the levee as if they owned it themselves; they were dependable and proved their worth and the present Foreman, Nels Nelson is doing the same thing.  Right here I want to state, that at times, when burning the grass from the levees in the Spring (which is important to eradicate gophers) and clearing brush, etc., in the river bottoms between Marysville and Yuba City (which is also important), additional men are employed, but during the entire time I have been connected with the levee, I have never personally hired or recommended a man to the Foreman for a job.  I have always held the Foreman responsible and he alone should have the responsibility of hiring and discharging, and knowing this, the hired men properly obey his orders and give value received in labor for their pay and which might be otherwise, if they thought "they had a pull" with the Commission and so be inclined to ignore the Foreman's orders.</P>
136.sgm:<P>4.  Every levee cabin on the levee is equipped with shovels, sacks, twine, etc., also a telephone; about the first of every November, every phone is tested to ascertain if it is in order.  At Second and Willow Streets, there is a small iron warehouse in which is kept a large quantity of sacks, shovels, lanterns and other equipment and every November, every lantern is filled with coal oil; everything is ready for instant use.  These may sound like little things, but as it is important for a fire department to be alert and use speed in reaching a fire, just so should the levee's equipment be ready for instant use, when required.</P>
136.sgm:<P>5.  When floods occur, railroad companies and other levee directors (not so prepared), frequently request the "loan" of such equipment; ALWAYS REFUSE THEM, KEEP YOURSELF PREPARED; being prepared, saved the City a disaster in 1907.</P>
136.sgm:<P>"Eternal vigilance is the price of safety."</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CXI</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Keeping Cool and How to Grow Old Gracefully</P>
136.sgm:<P>I PRESUME that this is a debatable subject with almost every one; should anyone happen to peruse this, I have him or her at a disadvantage, because I will not be present to get the other party's views.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>As for keeping cool, there is one thing I never do and that is, I never look at a thermometer in the summer time, because if I do, the darned thing is usually about ten degrees higher than I think the temperature is, and I at once proceed to feel just ten degrees warmer.  I guess in the hot summer time, I am more or less a Christian Scientist; I "deny" the heat and endeavor to think nothing about it and keep my mind on other things.</P>
136.sgm:<P>And now, as to "growing old gracefully," this is my formula:</P>
136.sgm:<P>1.  Never worry, and don't take your business problems home with you.</P>
136.sgm:<P>2.  Don't permit yourself to get excited.</P>
136.sgm:<P>3.  Maintain a good sense of humor.  I have had many controversies; generally the other fellow got peeved or mad; I never did.</P>
136.sgm:<P>4.  Be an optimist and when it comes to being an optimist, I have always maintained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>Advice is cheap and free, but all the above has been my practice and experience and it has worked out fine with me--try it.</P>
136.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER CXII</HEAD>
136.sgm:<P>Conclusion</P>
136.sgm:<P>IT HAS been said that there are three kinds of people in the world; the "Wills," the "Won'ts" and the "Can'ts"; the first accomplish most everything, the second oppose everything and the third fail in everything.  I have always endeavored to be in the "Wills" class; I have always tried to be a "doer," and as a result, I have had many a clash with the "Won'ts" and the "Can'ts" and at times, I have been more than surprised when I found good substantial citizens arrayed in those two classes; apparently some people have a lack of vision and others, who may have good judgment in their own business affairs, seem to lack similar good judgment in public affairs.  They are outspoken in their criticisms as private citizens, but let them be elected or appointed to some public position, they immediately become timid and lose their nerve and aggressiveness; that has always been an unsolved conundrum to me.  The resultant "clashes" I have had with the "Won'ts" and the "Can'ts," have been at times hard fought battles.  I have never "pulled my punches" and at times, I have tread on sensitive toes, but I have always endeavored to speak the truth and let the punctured egos fall where they may, always viewing with particular impatience, those who have attempted to make the public think they are, what I know they are not.  (How little we know of the unseen man; I mean the real man behind the mask and the form of the man we see.)</P>
136.sgm:<P>In reviewing these many past years, it is naturally a source of considerable satisfaction to feel that in all the "major engagements," I have been not only successful but that time has not demonstrated any errors of judgment.  (To the reader, this may be considered "bragging"; well, so be it, nevertheless, it is the truth.)  I might account for these results by saying, that I have never advanced any plan or any policy until I had first investigated and studied it from every angle in an effort to discover any possible flaws or errors of judgment; once having made up my mind that I was correct, then I would adopt Davie Crockett's advice of "Be sure you are right, then go ahead."  That many times meant a "contest" and the harder the fight, the more I have enjoyed it.  Possibly this view of the matter was the result of my having been born on St. Patrick's Day, which perhaps put some "Irish" in my blood and there is an old saying that "every good Irishman loves a fight"; many times the other fellow got mad; well, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I admit that I have been more or less a "lone wolf," never having learned the art of men's companionship, much preferring to work out my problems alone.  No one ever heard of me requesting assistance of committees to endorse or back up any of my plans.  In all the years I have been practically in sole charge of the Marysville levees, I have never asked for or received any outside expert advice as to how or where or when to do some job to checkmate some new problem advanced from time to time by "Old Man River," and there have been lots of them.  Whenever the rivers presented a new "crossword puzzle" to be solved, it was my job to solve it and it was very satisfactory to me that no one seemed to have any desire to "horn in" on my fun.</P>
136.sgm:<P>When floods have occurred in the past, some people would get very excited, some would get just nervous, some would disclose some curiosity, but I guess that I have always been the only one in Marysville who would anticipate the coming of a flood with pleasure; what is the use of having a levee which you have worked on if you do not have a chance occasionally to ascertain whether your works of improvement have satisfactorily "out guessed" the old river's tricks and antics?  On several occasions, when a good flood was anticipated and perhaps a cold night and sudden cessation of a storm, resulted in only a minor freshet, I have oft-times been "kidded" by my employees for my look of disappointment.</P>
136.sgm:<P>For many years, I was engaged in the mercantile business but that never hindered me from taking part in community affairs, holding public office and keeping in touch with the day's events, with new discoveries and the world's exciting trends.  Doing such things possibly makes one more or less versatile and the mental effects of versatility are as important as the economic.  A man who knows that he can do say five tasks and has done so repeatedly, even if only for fun or by way of exercise, surely feels more secure when he loses the chance to earn a living at one of the five; that was the way I felt, when one bank, during the depression deliberately "broke" me, this being followed with a like experience shortly after, when another bank, unintentionally also "broke" me, when I was just commencing to "get on my feet" again.  I immediately set about earning a living "at the other three."</P>
136.sgm:<P>I pity the fellow who does only one thing well; out of a job, he is just another lost soul.  There are some who cherish the false notion that there is only one sunrise in each career--well, they just don't "use their heads."  Unfortunately, there are a lot of people who live on "Easy Street" who never did anything to get a location there.</P>
136.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
136.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
136.sgm:<P>I have often been told that I was a "darned fool" to give so much time to public affairs; well, perhaps I have been a "darned fool"; perhaps I have given possibly twenty-five per cent of my time to such matters; perhaps I would be very much better off financially if I had given this outside time and effort to my own personal affairs, but, what I have been, is more important than what I have.  There is one thing which the other fellow does not perhaps realize or cannot understand, and that is, the pleasure, the entertainment and actual relaxation from other things, which has been mine.  I believe, that if I had my life to live all over again, I would again be a "darned fool" and do the very same thing over again; I have no regrets.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The thing that counts when the night is near,<LB>When the long, long race is run,<LB>Is a conscience clear, and devoid of fear,<LB>And a sense of duty done."</HI>
137.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-137</TITLE>
137.sgm:<TITLE>A backward glance at eighty, recollections &amp; comments, by Charles A. Murdock; Massachusetts 1841, Humboldt Bay 1855, San Francisco 1864: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
137.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
137.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
137.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
137.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
137.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
137.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
137.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>22-9636</LCCN>
137.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
137.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 659843</COPYRIGHT>
137.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P><illus entity="a137-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A CAMERA GLANCE AT EIGHTY</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>A BACKWARD GLANCE</P>
137.sgm:<P>AT EIGHTY</P>
137.sgm:<P>RECOLLECTIONS &amp; COMMENT</P>
137.sgm:<P>BY</P>
137.sgm:<P>CHARLES A. MURDOCK</P>
137.sgm:<P>MASSACHUSETTS 1841</P>
137.sgm:<P>HUMBOLDT BAY 1855</P>
137.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO 1864</P>
137.sgm:<P>PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY</P>
137.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA</P>
137.sgm:<P>1921</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1921</P>
137.sgm:<P>BY CHAS. A. MURDOCK</P>
137.sgm:<P>PRESS NEAL, STRATFORD &amp; KERR</P>
137.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>THIS BOOK IS</P>
137.sgm:<P>GRATEFULLY DEDICATED</P>
137.sgm:<P>TO THE FRIENDS WHO</P>
137.sgm:<P>INSPIRED IT</P>
137.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>MEMORIAL EDITION</P>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">No</HI>
137.sgm:.--<LB><HANDWRITTEN>Chas A Murdock</HANDWRITTEN>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>I.  NEW ENGLAND<HSEP>1<LB>II.  A HIDDEN HARBOR<HSEP>21<LB>III.  NINE YEARS NORTH<HSEP>43<LB>IV.  THE REAL BRET HARTE<HSEP>69<LB>V.  SAN FRANCISCO--THE SIXTIES<HSEP>99<LB>VI.  LATER SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>131<LB>VII.  INCIDENTS IN PUBLIC SERVICE<HSEP>157<LB>VIII.  AN INVESTMENT<HSEP>183<LB>IX.  BY-PRODUCT<HSEP>199<LB>X.  CONCERNING PERSONS<HSEP>217<LB>XI.  OUTINGS<HSEP>247<LB>XII.  OCCASIONAL VERSE<HSEP>269<LB>EPILOGUE<HSEP>275</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>A CAMERA GLANCE AT EIGHTY<HSEP>Frontispiece<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>HUMBOLDT BAY, WINSHIP MAP<HSEP>40<LB>FRANCIS BRET HARTE (Saroney, 1874)<HSEP>80<LB>THE CLAY-STREET OFFICE THE DAY AFTER<HSEP>152<LB>THOMAS STARR KING (Original given Bret Harte)<HSEP>184<LB>HORATIO STEBBINS, SAN FRANCISCO, 1864-1900<HSEP>192<LB>HORACE DAVIS, HARVARD IN 1836<HSEP>224<LB>OUTINGS:  THE SIERRAS, HAWAII<HSEP>264</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FOREWORD</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>IN the autumn of 1920 the Board of Directors of the Pacific Coast Conference of Unitarian Churches took note of the approaching eightieth birthday of Mr. Charles A. Murdock, of San Francisco.  Recalling Mr. Murdock's active service of all good causes, and more particularly his devotion to the cause of liberal religion through a period of more than half a century, the board decided to recognize the anniversary, which fell on January 26, 1921, by securing the publication of a volume of Mr. Murdock's essays.  A committee was appointed to carry out the project, composed of Rev. H. E. B. Speight (chairman), Rev. C. S. S. Dutton, and Rev. Earl M. Wilbur.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The committee found a very ready response to its announcement of a subscription edition, and Mr. Murdock gave much time and thought to the preparation of material for the volume.  "A Backward Glance at Eighty" is now issued with the knowledge that its appearance is eagerly awaited by all Mr. Murdock's friends and by a large number of others who welcome new light upon the life of an earlier generation of pioneers.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The publication of the book is an affectionate tribute to a good citizen, a staunch friend, a humble Christian gentleman, and a fearless servant of Truth--Charles A. Murdock.</P>
137.sgm:<P>MEMORIAL COMMITTEE.</P>
137.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<HEAD>GENESIS</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>IN the beginning, the publication of this book is not the deliberate act of the octogenarian.  Separate causes seem to have co-operated independently to produce the result.  Several years ago, in a modest literary club, the late Henry Morse Stephens, in his passion for historical material, urged me from time to time to devote my essays to early experiences in the north of the state and in San Francisco.  These papers were familiar to my friends, and as my eightieth birthday approached they asked that I add to them introductory and connecting chapters and publish a memorial volume.  To satisfy me that it would find acceptance they secured advance orders to cover the expense.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Under these conditions I could not but accede to their request.  I would subordinate an unimportant personal life.  My purpose is to recall conditions and experiences that may prove of historical interest and to express some of the conclusions and convictions formed in an active and happy life.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I wish to express my gratitude to the members of the committee and to my friend, George Prescott Vance, for suggestions and assistance in preparation and publication.<LB>C. A. M.</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>A BACKWARD GLANCE AT EIGHTY</P>
137.sgm:<BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A BACKWARD GLANCE AT EIGHTY<LB>CHAPTER I <LB>NEW ENGLAND</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>MY very early memories alternate between my grandfather's farm in Leominster, Massachusetts, and the Pemberton House in Boston.  My father and mother, both born in Leominster, were schoolmates, and in due time they married.  Father was at first a clerk in the country store, but at an early age became the tavern-keeper.  I was born on January 26, 1841.  Soon thereafter father took charge of the Pemberton House on Howard Street, which developed into Whig headquarters.  Being the oldest grandson, I was welcome at the old homestead, and I was so well off under the united care of my aunts that I spent a fair part of my life in the country.</P>
137.sgm:<P>My father was a descendant of Robert Murdock (of Roxbury), who left Scotland in 1688, and whose descendants settled in Newton.  My father's branch removed to Winchendon, home of tubs and pails.  My grandfather (Abel) moved to Leominster and later settled in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>My mother's father was Deacon Charles Hills, descended from Joseph Hills, who came from England in 1634.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Nearly every New England town was devoted to some special industry, and Leominster was given to the manufacture of horn combs.  The industry was established by a Hills ancestor, and when I was born four Hills brothers were co-operative comb-makers, carrying on the business in connection with small farming.  The proprietors were the employees.  If others were required, they could be readily secured at the going wages of one dollar a day.</P>
137.sgm:<P>My grandfather was the oldest of the brothers.  When he married Betsy Buss his father set aside for him twenty acres of the home farm, and here he built the house in which he lived for forty years, raising a family of ten children.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I remember quite clearly my great-grandfather Silas Hills.  He was old and querulous, and could certainly scold; but now that I know that he was born in 1760, and had nineteen brothers and sisters, I think of him with compassion and wonder.  It connects me with the distant past to think I remember a man who was sixteen years old when the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>My grandfather's house faced the country road that ran north over the rolling hills among the stone-walled farms, and was about a mile from the common that marked the center of the town.  It was white, of course, with green blinds.  The garden in front was fragrant from Castilian roses, Sweet Williams, and pinks.  There were lilacs and a barberry-bush.  A spacious hall bisected the house.  The south front room was sacred to funerals and weddings; we seldom entered it.  Back of that was grandma's room.  Stairs in the hall led to two sleeping-rooms above.  The north front room was "the parlor," but seldom used.  There on the center-table reposed Baxter's "Saints' Rest" and Young's "Night Thoughts."  The fireplace flue so seldom held a fire that the swallows utilized the chimney for their nests.  Back of this was the diningroom, in which we lived.  It had a large brick oven and a serviceable fireplace.  The kitchen was an ell, from which stretched woodshed, carriage-house, pigpen, smoking-house, etc. Currant and quince bushes, rhubarb, mulberry, maple, and butternut trees were scattered about.  An apple orchard helped to increase the frugal income.</P>
137.sgm:<P>We raised corn and pumpkins, and hay for the horse and cows.  The corn was gathered into the barn across the road, and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Life was simple but happy.  The small boy had small duties.  He must pick up chips, feed the hens, hunt eggs, sprout potatoes, and weed the garden.  But he had fun the year round, varying with the seasons, but culminating with the winter, when severity was unheeded in the joy of coasting, skating, and sleighing in the daytime, and apples, chestnuts, and pop-corn in the long evenings.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I never tired of watching my grandfather and his brothers as they worked in their shops.  The combs were not the simple instruments we now use to separate and arrange the hair, but ornamental structures that women wore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Uncle Emerson generally sung psalm-tunes as he worked.  Deacon Hills, as he was always called, was finisher, packer, and business manager.  I was interested to notice that in doing up the dozen combs in a package he always happened to select the best one to tie on the outside as a sample.  That was his nearest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:approach to dishonesty.  He was a thoroughly good man, but burdened and grave.  I do not know that I ever heard him laugh, and he seldom, if ever, smiled.  He worked hard, was faithful to every duty, and no doubt loved his family; but soberness was inbred.  He read the <HI REND="italics">Cultivator</HI>
137.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Christian Register</HI>
137.sgm:<P>My grandmother was a gentle, patient soul, living for her family, wholly unselfish and incapable of complaint.  She was placid and cheerful, courageous and trusting.  I had four fine aunts, two of whom were then unmarried and devoted to the small boy.  One was a veritable ray of sunshine; the other, gifted of mind and nearest my age, was most companionable.  Only one son lived to manhood.  He had gone from the home, but faithfully each year returned from the city to observe Thanksgiving, the great day of New England.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Holidays were somewhat infrequent.  Fourth of July and muster, of course, were not forgotten, and while Christmas was almost unnoticed Thanksgiving we never failed to mark with all its social and religious significance.  Almost everybody went to meeting, and the sermon, commonly reviewing the year, was regarded as an event.  The home-coming of the absent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Sunday was strictly observed.  Grandfather always blacked his boots before sundown of Saturday night, and on Sunday anything but going to meeting was regarded with suspicion, especially if it was associated with any form of enjoyment.  In summer "Log Cabin" was hitched into the shafts of the chaise, and with gait slightly accelerated beyond the daily habit jogged to town and was deposited in the church shed during the service.  At noon we rejoined him and ate our ginger-bread and cheese while he disposed of his luncheon of oats.  The we went back to Sunday-school, and he rested or fought flies.  In winter he was decked with bells and hitched in the sleigh.  Plenty of robes and a foot-stove, or at least a slab of heated soapstone, provided for grandmother's comfort.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The church when it was formed was named "The First Congregational."  When it became Unitarian, the word, in parentheses, was added.  The Second Congregational was always called "The Orthodox."  The church building was a fine example of early architecture.  The steeple was high, the walls were white, the pews were square.  On a tablet at the right of the pulpit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The first minister I remember was saintly Hiram Withington, who won my loyalty by his interest manifested by standing me up by the door-jamb and marking my growth from call to call.  I remember Rufus P. Stebbins, the former minister, who married my father and mother and refused a fee because my father had always cut his hair in the barberless days of old.  Amos A. Smith was later in succession.  I loved him for his goodness.  Sunday-school was always a matter of course, and was never dreaded.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I early enjoyed the Rollo books and later reveled in Mayne Reid.  The haymow in the barn and a blessed knothole are associated with many happy hours.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Reading has dangers.  I think one of the first books I ever read was a bound volume of <HI REND="italics">Merry's Museum</HI>
137.sgm:.  There was a continued story recounting the adventures of one Dick Boldhero.  It was illustrated with horrible woodcuts.  One of them showed Dick bearing on a spirited charger the clasped form of the heroine, whom he had abducted.  It impressed me deeply.  I recognized no distinction of sex or attractiveness and lived in terror of suffering abduction.  When I saw a stranger coming I would run into the shop and clasp my arms around somepost until I felt the danger past.  This must have been very early in my career.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>A very early trial was connected with a visit to a school.  I was getting proud of my ability to spell small words.  A primer-maker had attempted to help the association of letters with objects by placing them in juxtaposition, but through a mistake he led me to my undoing.  I knew my letters and I knew some things.  I plainly distinguished the letters P-A-N.  Against them I was puzzled by a picture of a spoon, and with credulity, perhaps characteristic, I blurted out "P-a-n--spoon," whereat to my great discomfiture everybody laughed.  I have never liked being laughed at from that day to this.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I am glad that I left New England early, but I am thankful that it was not before I realized the loveliness of the arbutus as it braved the snow and smiled at the returning sun, nor that I made forts or played morris in the snow at school.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I have passed on from my first impressions in the country perhaps unwarrantedly.  It is hard to differentiate consistently.  I may have mixed early memories with more mature realization.  I did not live with my grandmother continuously.  I went back and forth as convenience and other's desires prompted.  I do not know what impressions of life in the Pemberton House came first.  Very early I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Daniel Webster was often the central figure at banquets in the Pemberton.  General Sam Houston, Senator from Texas, was also entertained, for I remember that my father told me of an incident that occurred many years after, when he passed through San Antonio.  As he strolled through the city he saw the Senator across the street, but, supposing that he would not be remembered, had no thought of speaking, whereupon Houston called out, "Young man, are you not going to speak to me?"  My father replied that he had not supposed that he would be remembered.  "Of course I remember meeting you at the Pemberton House in Boston."</P>
137.sgm:<P>I remember some of the boarders, regular and transient, distinguished and otherwise.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>I well remember the famous circus clown of the period, Joe Pentland, very serious and proper when not professionally funny.  A minstrel who made a great hit with "Jim Crow" once gave me a valuable lesson on table manners.  One Barrett, state treasurer, was a boarder.  He had a standing order: "Roast beef, rare and fat; gravy from the dish."  Madame Biscaccianti, of the Italian opera, graced our table.  So did the original Drew family.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The hotel adjoined the Howard Athen&aelig;um, and I profited from peeping privileges to the extent of many pins.  I recall some wonderful trained animals--Van Amberg's, I think.  A lion descended from back-stage and crawled with stealth upon a sleeping traveler in the foreground.  It was thrilling but harmless.  There were also some Viennese dancers, who introduced, I believe, the Cracovienne.  I remember a "Sissy Madigan," who seemed a wonder of beauty and charm.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>There was great excitement when the Athen&aelig;um caught on fire.  I can see the trunks being dragged down the stairs to the damage of the banisters, and great confusion and dismay among our boarders.  A small boy was hurried in his nightie across the street and kept till all danger had passed.  A very early memory is the marching through the streets of soldiers bound for the Mexican War.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Off and on, I lived in Boston till 1849, when my father left for California and the family returned to Leominster.</P>
137.sgm:<P>My first school in Boston was in the basement of Park Street Church.  Hermann Clarke, son of our minister, Rev. James Freeman Clarke, was a fellow pupil.  Afterward I went to the Mayhew Grammar School, connected in my mind with a mild chastisement for imitating a trombone when a procession passed by.  The only other punishment I recall was a spanking by my father for playing "hookey" and roaming in the public garden.  I remember Sunday-school parades through certain public streets.  But the great event was the joining of all the day schools in the great parade when Cochituate water was introduced into the city.  It was a proud moment when the fountain in the frogpond on the Common threw on high the water prodigiously brought from far Cochituate.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Another Boston memory is the Boston Theater, where William Warren reigned.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>As I recall my early boyhood, many changes in customs seem suggested.  There may be trundle-beds in these days, but I never see them.  No fathers wear boots in this era, and bootjacks are as extinct as the dodo.  I have kept a few letters written by my mother when I was away from her.  They were written on a flat sheet, afterward folded and fastened by a wafer.  Envelopes had not arrived; neither had postage-stamps.  Sealing-wax was then in vogue and red tape for important documents.  In all well-regulated dwellings there were whatnots in the corner with shells and wax-works and other objects of beauty or mild interest.  The pictures did not move--they were fixed in the family album.  The musical instruments most in evidence were jew's-harps and harmonicas.  The Rollo books were well calculated to make a boy sleepy.  The Franconia books were more attractive, and "The Green Mountain Boy" was thrilling.  A small boy's wildest dissipation was rolling a hoop.</P>
137.sgm:<P>And now California casts her shadow.  My father was an early victim.  I remember his parting admonition, as he was a man of few words and seldom offered advice.  "Be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Father felt that in two years he would return with enough money to provide for our needs.  In the meantime we could live at less expense and in greater safety in the country.  We returned to the town we all loved, and the two years stretched to six.  We three children went to school, my mother keeping house.  In 1851 my grandfather died, and in 1853 my grandmother joined him.</P>
137.sgm:<P>During these Leominster days we greatly enjoyed a visit from my father's sister, Charlotte, with her husband, John Downes, an astronomer connected with Harvard University.  They were charming people, bringing a new atmosphere from their Cambridge home.  Uncle John tried to convince me that by dividing the heavens I might count the visible stars, but he did not succeed.  He wrote me a fine, friendly letter on his returning home, in 1852, using a sheet of blue paper giving on the third page a view of the college buildings and a procession of the alumni as they left the church Sept. 6, 1836.  In the letter he pronounced it a very good view.  It is presented elsewhere, in connection with the picture of a friend who entered the university a few years later.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>School life was pleasant and I suppose fairly profitable.  Until I entered high school I attended the ungraded district school.  It was on the edge of a wood, and a source of recess pleasure was making umbrageous homes of pine boughs.  On the last day of school the school committee, the leading minister, the ablest lawyer, and the best-loved doctor were present to review and address us.  We took much pride in the decoration.  Wreaths of plaited leaves were twisted around the stove-pipe; the top of the stove was banked with pond-lilies gathered from a pond in our woods.  Medals were primitive.  For a week I wore a pierced ninepence in evidence of my proficiency in mental arithmetic; then it passed to stronger hands.</P>
137.sgm:<P>According to present standards we indulged in precious little amusement.  Entertainments were few.  Once in a while a circus came to town, and there were organizations of musical attractions like The Hutchinson Family and The Swiss Bell Ringers.  Ossian E. Dodge was a name with which to conjure, and a panorama was sometimes unrolled alternating with dissolving views.  Seen in retrospect, they all seem tame and unalluring.  The Lyceum was the feature of strongest interest to the grown-ups.  Lectures gave them a chance to see men of note like Wendell Phillips, Emerson, or William Lloyd Garrison.  Even boys could enjoy poets of the size of John G. Saxe.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>Well do I remember the distrust felt for abolitionists.  I had an uncle who entertained Fred Douglass and was ready at any time to help a fugitive slave to Canada.  He was considered dangerous.  He was a shoemaker, and I remember how he would drop his work when no one was by and get up to pace the floor and rehearse a speech he probably never would make.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Occasionally our singing-school would give a concert, and once in a farmers' chorus I was costumed in a smock cut down from one of grandfather's.  I carried a sickle and joined in "Through lanes with hedgerows, pearly."  I kept up in the singing but let my attention wander as the farmers made their exit and did not notice that I was left till the other boys were almost off the stage.  I then skipped after them, swinging my scythe in chagrin.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In the high school we gave an exhibition in which we enacted some Scotch scene.  I think it had to do with Roderick Dhu.  We were to be costumed, and I was bothered about kilts and things.  Mr. Phillips, the principal, suggested that the stage be set with small evergreen trees.  The picture of them in my mind's eye brought relief, and I impulsively exclaimed, "That will be good, because we will not have to wear pants," meaning, of course, the kilts.  He had a sense of humor and was a tease.  He pretended to take me literally, and raised a laugh as he said, "Why, Murdock!"</P>
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137.sgm:<P>One bitterly cold night we went to Fitchburg, five miles away, to describe the various pictures given at a magic-lantern exhibition.  My share was a few lines on a poor view of Scarborough Castle.  At this distance it seems like a poor investment of energy.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I wonder if modern education has not made some progress in a generation.  Here was a boy of fourteen who had never studied history or physics or physiology and was assigned nothing but Latin, algebra and grammar.  I left at fourteen and a half to come to California, knowing little but what I had picked up accidentally.</P>
137.sgm:<P>A diary of my voyage, dating from June 4, 1855, vividly illustrates the character of the English inculcated by the school of the period.  It refers to the "crowd assembled to witness our departure."  It recounts all we saw, beginning with Washacum Pond, which we passed on our way to Worcester: "of considerable magnitude,...and the small islands which dot its surface render it very beautiful."  The buildings of New York impressed the little prig greatly.  Trinity Church he pronounces "one of the most splendid edifices which I ever saw," and he waxes into "Opalian" eloquence over Barnum's American Museum, which was "illuminated from basement to attic."</P>
137.sgm:<P>We sailed on the "George Law," arriving at Aspinwall, the eastern terminal of the Panama <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Let the diary tell the tale of the beginning of life in California: "I arose about 4 1/2 this morning and went on deck.  We were then in the Golden Gate, which is the entrance into San Francisco Bay.  On each side of us was high land.  On the left-hand side was a light-house, and the light was still burning.  On my right hand was the outer telegraph building.  When they see us they telegraph to another place, from which they telegraph all over San Francisco.  When we were going in there was a strong ebb tide.  We arrived at the wharf a little after five o'clock.  The first thing which I did was to look for my father.  Him I did not see."</P>
137.sgm:<P>Father had been detained in Humboldt by the burning of the connecting steamer, so we went to Wilson's Exchange in Sansome near Sacramento Street, and in the afternoon took the "Senator" for Sacramento, where my uncle and aunt lived.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The part of a day in San Francisco was used to the full in prospecting the strange city.  We walked its streets and climbed its hills, much interested in all we saw.  The line of people waiting for their mail up at Portsmouth Square was perhaps the most novel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>A month or so on this compulsory visit passed very pleasantly.  We found fresh delight in watching the Chinese and their habits.  We had never seen a specimen before.  A very pleasant picnic and celebration on the Fourth of July was another attractive novelty.  Cheap John auctions and frequent fires afforded amusement and excitement, and we learned to drink muddy water without protest.</P>
137.sgm:<P>On the 15th the diary records: "Last night about 12 o'clock I woke, and who should I behold, standing by me, but my father!  Is it possible that after a separation of nearly six years I have at last met my father?  It is even so.  This form above me is, indeed, my father's."  The day's entry concludes: "I have really enjoyed myself today.  I like the idea of a father very well."</P>
137.sgm:<P>We were compelled to await an upcoast steamer till August, when that adventurous craft, the steamer "McKim," now newly named the "Humboldt," resumed sea-voyages.  The Pacific does not uniformly justify the name, but this time it completely succeeded.  The ocean was as smooth as the deadest mill-pond--not a breath of wind or a ripple of the placid surface.  Treacherous Humboldt Bar, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>And now that the surroundings may be better understood, let me digress from the story of my boyhood and touch on the early romance of Humboldt Bay--its discovery and settlement.</P>
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137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>A HIDDEN HARBOR</P>
137.sgm:<P>THE northwesterly corner of California is a region apart.  In its physical characteristics and in its history it has little in common with the rest of the state.  With no glamour of Spanish occupancy, its romance is of quite another type.  At the time of the discovery of gold in California the northwestern portion of the state was almost unknown territory.  For seven hundred miles, from Fort Ross to the mouth of the Columbia, there stretched a practically uncharted coast.  A few headlands were designated on the imperfect map and a few streams were poorly sketched in, but the great domain had simply been approached from the sea and its characteristics were mostly a matter of conjecture.  So far as is known, not a white man lived in all California west of the Coast Range and north of Fort Ross.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Here is, generally speaking, a mountainous region heavily timbered along the coast, diversified with river valleys and rolling hills.  A marked peculiarity is its sharp slope toward the northwest for its entire length.  East of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The water-flow shows the general trend of the ranges; but most of the rivers have numerous forks, indicating transverse ridges.  From an aeroplane the mountains of northern California would suggest an immense drove of sleeping razor-backed hogs nestling against one another to keep warm, most of their snouts pointed northwest.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Less than one-fourth of the land is tillable, and not more than a quarter of that is level.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Mendocino (in Humboldt County) was given its significant name about 1543.  When Heceta and Bodega in 1775 were searching the coast for harbors, they anchored under the lee of the next northerly headland.  After the pious manner of the time, having left San Blas on Trinity Sunday, they named their haven Trinidad.  Their arrival was six days before the battle of Bunker Hill.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It is about forty-five miles from Cape Mendocino to Trinidad.  The bold, mountainous hills, though they often reach the ocean, are somewhat depressed between these points.  Halfway between them lies Humboldt Bay, a capacious harbor with a tidal area of Twenty-eight miles.  It is the best and almost the only harbor from San Francisco to Puget Sound.  It is fourteen miles long, in shape like an elongated human ear.  It eluded discovery with even greater success than San Francisco Bay, and the story of its final settlement is striking and romantic.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Neither Cabrillo nor Heceta nor Drake makes mention of it.  In 1792 Vancouver followed the coast searchingly, but when he anchored in what he called the "nook" of Trinidad he was entirely ignorant of a near-by harbor.  We must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The nearest settlement was the Russian colony near Bodega, one hundred and seventy-five miles to the south.  In 1811 Kuskoff found a river entering the ocean near the point.  He called it Slavianski, but General Vallejo rescued us from that when he referred to it as Russian River.  The land was bought from the Indians for a trifle.  Madrid was applied to for a title, but the Spaniards declined to give it.  The Russians held possession, however, and proceeded with cultivation.  To better protect their claims, nineteen miles up the coast, they erected a stockade mounting twenty guns.  They called the fort Kosstromitinoff, but the Spaniards referred to it as <HI REND="italics">el fuerte de los Rusos</HI>
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137.sgm:<P>In 1827 a party of adventurers started north from Fort Ross for Oregon, following the coast.  One Jedidiah Smith, a trapper, was the leader.  It is said that Smith River, near the Oregon line, was named for him.  Somewhere on the way all but four were reported killed by the Indians.  They are supposed to have been the first white men to enter the Humboldt country.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Among the very early settlers in California was Pearson B. Redding, who lived on a ranch near Mount Shasta.  In 1845, on a trapping expedition, he struck west through a divide in the Coast Range and discovered a good-sized, rapid river flowing to the west.  From its direction and the habit of rivers to seek the sea, he concluded that it was likely to reach the Pacific at about the latitude of Trinidad, named seventy years before.  He thereupon gave it the name of Trinity, and in due time left it running and returned to his home.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Three years passed, and gold was discovered by Marshall.  Redding was interested and curious and visited the scene of Marshall's find.  The American River and its bars reminded him of the Trinity, and when he returned to his home he organized a party to prospect it.  Gold was found in moderate quantities, especially on the upper portions.  The Trinity mines extended confidence and added to the excitement.  Camps sprang up on every bar.  The town of Weaverville took the lead, and still holds it.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>In October, 1849, there were at Rich Bar forty miners short of provisions and ready for any adventure.  The Indians reported that eight suns to the west was a large bay with fertile land and tall trees.  A vision of a second San Francisco, a port for all northern California, urged them to try for it.  Twenty-four men agreed to join the party, and the fifth of November was set for the start.  Dr. Josiah Gregg was chosen leader and two Indians were engaged as guides.  When the day arrived the rain was pouring and sixteen of the men and the two guides backed out, but the remaining eight were courageous (or fool-hardy) and not to be thwarted.  With a number of pack animals and eight days' supplies they started up the slippery mountainside.  At the summit they encountered a snowstorm and camped for the night.  In the morning they faced a western view that would have discouraged most men--a mass of mountains, rough-carved and snow-capped, with main <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>When they set up a target and at sixty yards pierced a scrap of paper and the tree to which it was pinned the effect was satisfactory.  The Indians were astonished at the feat, but equally impressed by the unaccountable noise from the explosion.  They became very friendly, warned the wonder-workers of the danger to be encountered if they headed north, where Indians were many and fierce, and told them to keep due west.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The perilous journey was continued by the ascent of another mountainside.  Provisions soon became very scarce, nothing but flour remaining, and little of that.  On the 18th they went dinnerless to their cold blankets.  Their animals had been without food for two days, but the next morning they found grass.  A redwood forest was soon encountered, and new difficulties developed.  The underbrush was dense and no trails were found.  Fallen trees made progress very slow.  Two miles a day was all they could accomplish.  They painfully worked through the section of the marvelous redwood belt destined to astonish the world, reaching a small prairie, where they camped.  The following day they devoted to hunting, luckily killing a number of deer.  Here they remained several days, drying the venison in the meantime; but when, their strength recuperated, they resumed their journey, the meat was soon exhausted.  Three days of fasting for man and beast followed.  Two of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>At length the welcome sound of surf was heard, but three days passed before they reached the ocean.  Three of the animals had died of starvation in the last stretch of the forest.  The men had not eaten for two days, and devoted the first day on the beach to securing food.  One shot a bald eagle; another found a raven devouring a cast-up fish, both of which he secured.  All were stewed together, and a good night's sleep followed the questionable meal.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The party struck the coast near the headland that in 1775 had been named Trinidad, but not being aware of this fact they named it, for their leader, Gregg's Point.</P>
137.sgm:<P>After two days' feasting on mussels and dried salmon obtained from the Indians, they kept on south.  Soon after crossing a small stream, now named Little River, they came to one by no means so little.  Dr. Gregg insisted on getting out his instruments and ascertaining the latitude, but the others had no scientific interest and were in a hurry to go on.  They hired Indians to row them across in canoes, and all except the doctor bundled in.  Finding himself about to be left, he grabbed up his instruments and waded out into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>They continued down the beach, camping when night overtook them.  Wood, the chronicler of the expedition,<ANCHOR ID="n2-11">*</ANCHOR>
137.sgm: and Buck went in different directions to find water.  Wood returned first with a bucketful, brackish and poor.  Buck soon after arrived with a supply that looked much better, but when Gregg sampled it he made a wry face and asked Buck where he found it.  He replied that he dipped it out of a smooth lake about a half mile distant.  It was good plain salt water; they had discovered the mythical bay--or supposed they had.  They credulously named it Trinity, expecting to come to the river later.  The next day they proceeded down the narrow sand strip that now bounds the west side of Humboldt Bay, but when they reached the harbor entrance from the ocean they were compelled to retrace their steps and try the east shore.  The following day they headed the bay, camping at a beautiful plateau on the edge of the redwood belt, giving a fine view <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-11">"The Narrative of L. K. Wood," published many years after, and largely incorporated in Bledsoe's "History of the Indian Wars of Northern California," is the source of most of the incidents relating to Gregg's party embraced in this chapter.</NOTE>
137.sgm:<P>They proceeded leisurely down the east side of the bay, stopping the second day nearly opposite the entrance.  It seemed a likely place for a townsite, and they honored the water-dipping discoverer by calling it Bucksport.  Then they went on, crossing the little stream now named Elk River, and camping near what was subsequently called Humboldt Point.  They were disappointed that no river of importance emptied into so fine a bay, but they realized the importance of such a harbor and the value of the soil and timber.  They were, however, in no condition to settle, or even to tarry.  Their health and strength were impaired, ammunition was practically exhausted, and there were no supplies.  They would come back, but now they must reach civilization.  It was midwinter and raining almost constantly.  They had little idea of distance, but knew there were settlers to the south, and that they must reach them or starve.  So they turned from the bay they had found to save their lives.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>The third day they reached a large river flowing from the south, entering the ocean a few miles south of the bay.  As they reached it they met two very old Indians loaded down with eels just taken from the river, which the Indians freely shared with the travelers.  They were so impressed with them and more that followed that they bestowed on the magnificent river which with many branches drains one of the most majestic domains on earth the insignificant, almost sacrilegious name of <HI REND="italics">Eel</HI>
137.sgm:<P>For two days they camped, consuming eels and discussing the future.  A most unfortunate difference developed, dividing the little group of men who had suffered together so long.  Gregg and three others favored following the ocean beach.  The other four, headed by Wood, were of the opinion that the better course would be to follow up Eel River to its head, crossing the probably narrow divide and following down some stream headed either south or east.  Neither party would yield and they parted company, each almost hopeless.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Wood and his companions soon found their plan beset with great difficulties.  Spurs of the mountains came to the river's edge and cut off ascent.  After five days they left the river and sought a mountain ridge.  A heavy snowfall added to their discomfiture.  They killed a small deer, and camped for five days, devouring it thankfully.  Compelled by the snow, they returned to the river-bed, the skin of the deer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The next morning in a mountain gully eight ugly grizzlies faced them.  In desperation they determined to attack.  Wood and Wilson were to advance and fire.  The others held themselves in reserve--one of them up a tree.  At fifty feet each selected a bear and fired.  Wilson killed his bear; Wood thought he had finished his.  The beast fell, biting the earth and writhing in agony.  Wilson sensibly climbed a tree and called upon Wood to do likewise.  He started to first reload his rifle and the ball stuck.  When the two shots were fired five of the bears started up the mountain, but one sat quietly on its haunches watching proceedings.  As Wood struggled with his refractory bullet it started for him.  He gained a small tree and climbed beyond reach.  Unable to load, he used his rifle to beat back the beast as it tried to claw him.  To his horror the bear he thought was killed rose to its feet and furiously charged the tree, breaking it down at once.  Wood landed on his feet and ran down the mountain to a small buckeye, the bear after him.  He managed to hook his arm around the tree, swinging his body clear.  The wounded bear was carried by its momentum well down the mountain.  Wood ran for another tree, the other bear close after him, snapping at his heels.  Before he could climb out of reach he was grabbed by the ankle and pulled down.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>His clothing was stripped from his body and he felt the end had come, but the bears seemed disinclined to seize his flesh.  They were evidently suspicious of white meat.  Finally one disappeared up the ravine, while the other sat down a hundred yards away, and keenly watched him.  As long as he kept perfectly still the bear was quiet, but if he moved at all it rushed upon him.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Wilson came to his aid and both finally managed to climb trees beyond reach.  The bear then sat down between the trees, watching both and growling threateningly if either moved.  It finally tired of the game and to their great relief disappeared up the mountain.  Wood, suffering acutely, was carried down to the camp, where they remained twelve days, subsisting on the bear Wilson had killed.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Wood grew worse instead of better, and the situation was grave.  Little ammunition was left, they were practically without shoes or clothing and certain death seemed to face them.  Wood urged them to seek their own safety, saying they could leave him with the Indians, or put an end to his sufferings at any time.  Failing to induce the Indians to take him, it was decided to try to bind him on his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The four who started to follow the beach had experiences no less trying.  They found it impossible to accomplish their purpose.  Bold mountains came quite to the shore and blocked the way.  They finally struck east for the Sacramento Valley.  They were short of food and suffered unutterably.  Dr. Gregg grew weaker day by day until he fell from his horse and died from starvation, speaking no word.  The other three pushed on and managed to reach Sacramento a few days after the Wood party arrived at Sonoma.</P>
137.sgm:<P>While these adventurous miners were prosecuting the search for the mythical harbor, enterprising citizens of San Francisco renewed efforts to reach it from the ocean.  In December, 1849, soon after Wood and his companions started from the Trinity River, the brig "Cameo" was dispatched north to search carefully for a port.  She returned without success, but was again dispatched.  On this trip she rediscovered Trinidad.  Interest grew, and by March of 1850 not less than forty vessels were enlisted in the search.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>My father, who left Boston early in 1849, going by Panama and the Chagres River, had been through three fires in San Francisco and was ready for any change.  He joined with a number of acquaintances on one of these ventures, acting as secretary of the company.  They purchased the "Paragon," a Gloucester fishing-boat of 125 tons burden and early in March, under the command of Captain March, with forty-two men in the party, sailed north.  They hugged the coast and kept a careful lookout for a harbor, but passed the present Humboldt Bay in rather calm weather and in the daytime without seeing it.  The cause of what was then inexplicable is now quite plain.  The entrance has the prevailing northwest slant.  The view into the bay from the ocean is cut off by the overlapping south spit.  A direct view reveals no entrance; you can not see in by looking back after having passed it.  At sea the line of breakers seems continuous, the protruding point from the south connecting in surf line with that from the north.  Moreover, the bay at the entrance is very narrow.  The wooded hills are so near the entrance that there seems no room for a bay.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The "Paragon" soon found heavy weather and was driven far out to sea.  Then for three days she was in front of a gale driving her in shore.  She reached the coast nearly at the Oregon line and dropped anchor in the lee of a small island near Point St. George.  In the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The glory of the ocean discovery remained for the "Laura Virginia," a Baltimore craft, commanded by Lieutenant Douglass Ottinger, a revenue officer on leave of absence.  She left soon after the "Paragon," and kept close in shore.  Soon after leaving Cape Mendocino she reached the mouth of Eel River and came to anchor.  The next day three other vessels anchored and the "General Morgan" sent a boat over the river bar.  The "Laura Virginia" proceeded north and the captain soon saw the waters of a bay, but could see no entrance.  He proceeded, anchoring first at Trinidad and then at where Cresent City was later located.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Let us now return to L. K. Wood, whom we left at the Mark West home in the Sonoma Valley, recovering from the serious injuries incident to the bear encounter on Eel River.  After about six weeks of recuperation, Wood pushed on to San Francisco and organized a party of thirty men to return to Humboldt and establish a settlement.They were twenty days on the journey, arriving at the shore of the bay on April 19th, five days after the entrance of the "Laura Virginia."  They were amazed to see the vessel at anchor off Humboldt Point.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>And so the hidden harbor that had long inspired legend and tradition, and had been the source of great suffering and loss, was revealed.  It was <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
137.sgm: fed by the Trinity or any other river.  The mouth of the Trinity was <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
137.sgm:<P>Strange as it may seem, Humboldt Bay was not discovered at this time.  Some years ago a searcher of the archives of far-off St.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Humboldt as a community developed slowly.  For five years its real resources were neglected.  It was merely the shipping point from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<illus entity="a137-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HUMBOLDT BAY--FROM RUSSIAN ATLAS THE HIDDEN HARBOR--THRICE DISCOVERED Winship, 1806.  Gregg, 1849.  Ottinger, 1850.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>Its unique glory is the world-famous redwood belt.  For its entire length, one hundred and six miles of coast line, and of an average depth of eight miles, extends the marvelous grove.  Originally it comprised 540,000 acres.  For more than sixty years it has been mercilessly depleted, yet it is claimed that the supply will not be exhausted for two hundred years.  There is nothing on the face of the earth to compare with this stand of superb timber.  Trees reach two hundred and fifty feet in height, thirty feet in diameter, and a weight of 1,250,000 pounds.  Through countless centuries these noble specimens have stood, majestic, serene, reserved for man's use and delight.  In these later years fate has numbered their days, but let us firmly withstand their utter demolition.  It is beyond conception that all these monuments to nature's power and beauty should be sacrificed.  We must preserve accessible groves for the inspiration and joy of those who will take our places.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The coast highway following down one of the forks of the Eel River passes through the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>NINE YEARS NORTH</P>
137.sgm:<P>UNIONTOWN (now Arcata) had enjoyed the early lead among the Humboldt Bay towns.  The first consideration had been the facility in supplying the mines on the Trinity and the Klamath.  All goods were transported by pack-trains, and the trails over the mountains were nearer the head of the bay.  But soon lumber became the leading industry, and the mills were at Eureka on deep water at the center of the bay, making that the natural shipping point.  It grew rapidly, outstripping its rival, and also capturing the county-seat.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Arcata struggled valiantly, but it was useless.  Her geographical position was against her.  In an election she shamelessly stuffed the ballot box, but Eureka went to the legislature and won her point.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Arcata had the most beautiful location and its people were very ambitious.  In fruitless effort to sustain its lead, the town had built a pier almost two miles in length to a slough navigable to ocean steamers.  A single horse drew a flat car carrying passengers and freight.  It was the nearest approach to a railroad in the state of California at the time of our arrival on that lovely morning in 1855.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>We disembarked from the ancient craft and were soon leisurely pursuing our way toward the enterprising town at the other end of the track.  It seemed that we were met by the entire population; for the arrival of the steamer with mail and passengers was the exciting event of the month.  The station was near the southwest corner of the plaza, which we crossed diagonally to the post-office, housed in the building that had been my father's store until he sold out the year before, when he was elected to the Assembly.  Murdock's Hall was in the second story, and a little way north stood a zinc house that was to be our home.  It had been shipped first to San Francisco and then to Humboldt.  Its plan and architecture were the acme of simplicity.  There were three rooms tandem, each with a door in the exact middle, so that if all the doors were open a bullet would be unimpeded in passing through.  To add to the social atmosphere, a front porch, open at both ends, extended across the whole front.  A horseman could, and in fact often did, ride across it.  My brother and I occupied a chamber over the post-office, and he became adept in going to sleep on the parlor sofa every night and later going to bed in the store without waking, dodging all obstructing objects and undressing while sound asleep.</P>
137.sgm:<P>We were quite comfortable in this joke of a house.  But we had no pump; all the water we used I brought from a spring in the edge of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>One of the sights shown to the newcomer was a two-story house built before the era of the sawmill.  It was built of split lumber from a single redwood tree--and enough remained to fence the lot!  Within a stone's throw from the musk-plant spring was a standing redwood, with its heart burned out, in which thirteen men had slept one night, just to boast of it.  Later, in my time, a shingle-maker had occupied the tree all one winter, both as a residence and as a shop where he made shingles for the trade.</P>
137.sgm:<P>We had a very pleasant home and were comfortable and happy.  We had a horse, cows, rabbits, and pigeons.  Our garden furnished berries and vegetables in plenty.  The Indians sold fish, and I provided at first rabbits and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>California in those early days seemed wholly dependent on the foreign markets.  Flour came from Chile, "Haxall" being the common brand; cheese from Holland and Switzerland; cordials, sardines, and prunes from France; ale and porter from England; olives from Spain; whisky from Scotland.  Boston supplied us with crackers, Philadelphia sent us boots, and New Orleans furnished us with sugar and molasses.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The stores that supplied the mines carried almost everything--provisions, clothing, dry goods, and certainly wet goods. At every store there was found an open barrel of whisky, with a convenient glass sampler that would yield through the bunghole a fair-sized drink to test the quality.  One day I went into a store where a clever Chinaman was employed.  He had printed numerous placards announcing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>There was no school in the town when we came.  It troubled my mother that my brother and sister must be without lessons.  Severalother small children were deprived of opportunity.  In the emergency we cleaned out a room in the store, formerly occupied by a county officer, and I organized a very primary school.  I was almost fifteen, but the children were good and manageable.  I did not have very many, and fortunately I was not called upon to teach very long.  There came to town a clever man, Robert Desty.  He wanted to teach.  There was no school building, but he built one all by his own hands.  He suggested that I give up my school and become a pupil of his.  I was very glad to do it.  He was a good and ingenious teacher.  I enjoyed his lessons about six months, and then felt I must help my father.  My stopping was the only graduation in my experience.</P>
137.sgm:<P>My father was an inveterate trader, and the year after our coming he joined with another venturer in buying the standing crop of wheat in Hoopa Valley, on the Trinity River.  I went up to help in the harvesting, being charged with the weighing of the sacked grain.  It was a fine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In the meantime I had a great good time.  It was a very beautiful spot and all was new and strange.  There were many Indians, and they were interesting.  They lived in rancherias of puncheons along the river.  Each group of dwellings had a musical name.  One village was called Matiltin, another Savanalta.  The children swam like so many ducks, and each village had its sweathouse from which every adult, to keep in health and condition, would plunge into the swiftly flowing river.  They lived on salmon, fresh or dried, and on grass-seed cakes cooked on heated stones.  They were handsome specimens physically and were good workers.  The river was not bridged, but it was not deep and canoes were plenty.  If none were seen on the side which you chanced to find yourself, you had only to call, "Wanus, matil!"  (Come, boat!) and one would come.  If in a hurry, "Holish!" would expedite the service.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>The Indian language was fascinating and musical.  "Iaquay" was the word of friendly greeting.  "Aliquor" was Indian, "Waugee" was white man, "Chick" was the general word for money.  When "Waugee-chick" was mentioned, it meant gold or silver; if "Aliquor-chick," reference was made to the spiral quill-like shells which served as their currency, their value increasing rapidly by the length.<ANCHOR ID="n3-11">*</ANCHOR>
137.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-11">In the Hawaiian Islands short shells of this variety are strung for beads, but have little value</NOTE>
137.sgm:<P>The Indians were very friendly and hospitable.  If I wanted an account-book that was on the other side of the river, they would not bother for a canoe, but swim over with it, using one hand and holding the book high in the air.  I found they had settled habits and usages that seemed peculiar to them.  If one of their number died, they did not like it referred to; they wished for no condolence. "Indian die, Indian no talk," was their expression.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It was a wonder to me that in a valley connected with civilization by only a trail there should be found McCormick's reapers and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>All the week we harvested vigorously, and on Sunday we devoted most of the day to visiting the watermelon patches and sampling the product.  Of course, we spent a portion of the day in washing our few clothes, usually swimming and splashing in the river until they were dry.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The valley was long and narrow, with mountains on both sides so high that the day was materially shortened in the morning and at night.  The tardy sun was ardent when he came, but disturbed us little.  The nights were blissful--beds so soft and sweet and a canopy so beautiful!  In the morning we awoke to the tender call of cooing doves, and very soon lined up for breakfast in the perfectly ventilated out-of-doors.  Happy days they were!  Wise and genial Captain Snyder, Sonnichsen, the patient cook, Jim Brock, happy tormenter--how clearly they revisit the glimpses of the moon!</P>
137.sgm:<P>Returning to Uniontown, I resumed my placid, busy life, helping in the garden, around the house, and in the post-office.  My father was wise in his treatment.  Boylike I would say, "Father, what shall I do?"  He would answer, "Look around and find out.  I'll not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The post-office is a harborer of secrets and romance.  The postmaster and his assistants alone know "Who's Who."  A character of a packer, tall, straight, and bearded, always called Joe the Marine, would steal in and call for comely letters addressed to James Ashhurst, Esq. Robert Desty was found to be Mons. Robert d'Esti Mauville.  A blacksmith whose letters were commonly addressed to C. E. Bigelow was found entitled to one inscribed C. E. D. L. B. Bigelow.  Asked what his full name was, he replied, "Charles Edward Decatur La Fitte Butterfield Bigelow."  And, mind you, he was a <HI REND="italics">blacksmith</HI>
137.sgm:<P>Phonetics have a distinct value.  Uncertain of spelling, one can fall back on remembered sound.  I found a letter addressed to "Sanerzay."  I had no difficulty in determining that San Jose was intended.  Hard labor was suggested when someone wrote "Youchiyer."  The letter found its resting-place in Ukiah.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Among my miscellaneous occupations was the pasturage of mules about to start on the return trip to the mines.  We had a farm and logging-claim on the outskirts of town which afforded a good farewell bite of grass, and at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:night I would turn loose twenty to forty mules and their beloved bell-mare to feed and fight mosquitoes.  Early the next morning I would saddle my charger and go and bring them to the packing corral.  Never shall I forget a surprise given me one morning.  I had a tall, awkward mare, and was loping over the field looking for my charges.  An innocent little rabbit scuttled across Kate's path and she stopped in her tracks as her feet landed.  I was gazing for the mule train and I did not stop.  I sailed over her head, still grasping the bridle reins, which, attached to the bit, I also had to overleap, so that the next moment I found myself standing erect with the reins between my legs, holding on to a horse behind me still standing in her arrested tracks.  Remounting, I soon found the frisky mules and started them toward misery.  Driven into the corral where their freight had been divided into packs of from one hundred to one hundred and fifty pounds, they were one by one saddled, cinched, and packed.  A small mule would seem to be unequal to carrying two side-packs, each consisting of three fifty-pound sacks of flour, and perhaps a case of boots for a top-pack.  But protests of groans and grunts would be unavailing.  Two swarthy Mexicans, by dint of cleverly thrown ropes and the "diamond hitch," would soon have in place all that the traffic would bear, and the small Indian boy on the mother of the train, bearing a tinkling bell, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Another frequent duty was the preparation of the hall for some public function.  It might be a dance, a political meeting, or some theatrical performance.  Different treatment would be required, but all would include cleaning and lighting.  At a dance it was floor-scrubbing, filling the camphene lamps, and making up beds for the babies to be later deposited by their dancing mothers.  Very likely I would tend door and later join in the dance, which commonly continued until morning.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Politics interested me.  In the Fre&acute;mont campaign of 1856 my father was one of four Republicans in the county, and was by no means popular.  He lived to see Humboldt County record a six hundred majority for the Republican ticket.  Some of our local legislative candidates surprised and inspired me by their eloquence and unexpected knowledge and ability.  It was good to find that men read and thought, even when they lived in the woods and had little encouragement.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Occasionally we had quite good theatrical performances.  Very early I recall a thespian named Thoman, who was supported by a Julia Pelby.  They vastly pleased an uncritical audience.  I was doorkeeper, notwithstanding that Thoman doubted if I was "hefty" enough.  "Little Lotta" Crabtree was charming.  Her mother traveled with her.  Between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:performances she played with her dolls.  She danced gracefully and sang fascinatingly such songs as "I'm the covey what sings."  Another prime favorite was Joe Murphy, Irish comedian and violinist, pleasing in both roles.  I remember a singing comedian who bewailed his sad estate:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"For now I have nothing but rags to my back,<LB>My boots scarce cover my toes,<LB>While my pants are patched with an old flour-sack,<LB>To jibe with the rest of my clo'es."</HI>
137.sgm:<P>The singing-school was pleasure-yielding, its greatest joy being incidental.  When I could cut ahead of a chum taking a girl home and shamelessly trip him up with a stretched rope and get back to the drugstore and be curled up in the woodbox when he reached his final destination, I am afraid I took unholy joy.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Not long after coming we started a public library.  Mother and I covered all the books, this being considered an economical necessity.  Somewhat later Arcata formed a debating society that was really a helpful influence.  It engaged quite a wide range of membership, and we discussed almost everything.  Some of our members were fluent of speech from long participation in Methodist experience meetings.  Others were self-trained even to pronunciation.  One man of good mind, always said "here <HI REND="italics">dit</HI>
137.sgm: ary."  He had read French history and often referred to the <HI REND="italics">Gridironists</HI>
137.sgm: of France.  I have an idea he was the original <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>An especial pleasure were the thoroughness and zest with which we celebrated the Fourth of July.  The grown-ups did well in the day-light hours, when the procession, the oration, and the reading of the Declaration were in order; but with the shades of night the fireworks would have been inadequate but for the activity of the boys.  The town was built around a handsome plaza, probably copied from Sonoma as an incident of the Wood sojourn.  On the highest point in the center a fine flagstaff one hundred and twenty feet high was proudly crowned by a liberty-cap.  This elevated plateau was the field of our display.  On a spot not too near the flagstaff we planned for a spectacular center of flame.  During the day we gathered material for an enormous bonfire.  Huge casks formed the base and inflammable material of all kinds reached high in the air.  At dark we fired the pile.  But the chief interest was centered in hundreds of balls of twine, soaked in camphene, which we lighted and threw rapidly from hand to hand all over the plaza.  We could not hold on to them long, but we didn't need to.  They came flying from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Our garden was quite creditable.  Vegetables were plentiful and my flower-beds, though formal, were pleasing.  Stock-raising was very interesting.  One year I had the satisfaction of breaking three heifers and raising their calves.  My brother showed more enterprise, for he induced a plump young mother of the herd to allow him to ride her when he drove the rest to pasture.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Upon our arrival in Uniontown we found the only church was the Methodist.  We at once attended, and I joined the Sunday-school.  My teacher was a periodically reformed boat-man.  When he fell from grace he was taken in hand by the Sons of Temperance, which I had also joined.  "Morning Star Division, No. 106," was never short of material to work on.  My first editorial experience was on its spicy little written journal.  I went through the chairs and became "Worthy Patriarch" while still a boy.  The church was mostly served by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In the process of time the Presbyterians started a church, and I went there; swept out, trimmed the lamps, and sang in the choir.  The preacher was an educated man, and out of the pulpit was kind and reasonable; but he persisted that "Good deeds were but as filthy rags."  I didn't believe it and I didn't like it.  The staid pastor had but little recreation, and I am afraid I was always glad that Ulrica Schumacher, the frisky sister of the gunsmith, almost always beat him at chess.</P>
137.sgm:<P>He was succeeded by a man I loved, and I wonder I did not join his church.  We were good friends and used to go out trout-fishing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>When my father, in one of his numerous trades, bought out the only tinshop and put me in charge he changed my life and endangered my disposition.  The tinsmith left the county and I was left with the tools and the material, the only tinsmith in Humboldt County.  How I struggled and bungled!  I could make stovepipe by the mile, but it was a long time before I could double-seam a copper bottom onto a tin wash-boiler.  I lived to construct quite a decent traveling oilcan for a Eureka sawmill, but such triumphs come through mental anguish and burned fingers.  No doubt the experience extended my desultory education.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The taking over of the tinshop was doubly disappointing, since I really wanted to go into the office of the <HI REND="italics">Northern Californian</HI>
137.sgm: and become a printer and journalist.  That job I turned over to Bret Harte, who was clever and cultivated, but had not yet "caught on."  Leon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>There were many interesting characters among the residents of the town and county.  At times there came to play the violin at our dances one Seth Kinman, a buckskin-clad hunter.  He became nationally famous when he fashioned and presented elkhorn chairs to Buchanan and several succeeding Presidents.  They were ingenious and beautiful, and he himself was most picturesque.</P>
137.sgm:<P>One of our originals was a shiftless and merry Iowan to whose name was added by courtesy the prefix "Dr."  He had a small farm in the outskirts.  Gates hung from a single hinge and nothing was kept in repair.  He preferred to use his time in persuading nature to joke.  A single cucumber grown into a glass bottle till it could not get out was worth more than a salable crop, and a single cock whose comb had grown around an inserted pullet breastbone, until he seemed the precursor of a new breed of horned roosters, was better than much poultry.  He reached his highest fame in the cure of his afflicted wife.  She languished in bed and he diagnosed her illness as resulting from the fact that she was "hidebound."  His house he had never had time to complete.  The rafters were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>One of our leading merchants was a deacon in the Methodist church and so enjoyed the patronage of his brother parishioners.  One of them came in one day and asked the paying price of eggs.  The deacon told him "sixty cents a dozen."</P>
137.sgm:<P>"What are sail-needles?"</P>
137.sgm:<P>"Five cents apiece."</P>
137.sgm:<P>The brother produced an egg and proposed a swap.  It was smilingly accepted and the egg added to the pile of stock.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The brother lingered and finally drawled, "Deacon, it's customary, isn't it, to <HI REND="italics">treat</HI>
137.sgm:<P>"It is; what will you take?" laughingly replied the deacon.</P>
137.sgm:<P>"Sherry is nice."</P>
137.sgm:<P>The deacon poured out the sherry and handed it to his customer, who hesitated and timidly remarked that sherry was improved by a raw egg.  The amused deacon turned around and took from the egg-pile the identical one he had received.  As the brother broke it into his glass he noticed it had an extra yolk.  After enjoying his drink, he handed back the empty glass and said: "Deacon, that egg had a double yolk; don't you think you ought to give me another sail-needle?"</P>
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137.sgm:<P>When Thomas Starr King was electrifying the state in support of the Sanitary Commission (the Red Cross of the Civil War), Arcata caught the fever and in November, 1862, held a great meeting at the Presbyterian church.  Our leading ministers and lawyers appealed with power and surprising subscriptions followed.  Mr. Coddington, our wealthiest citizen, started the list with three hundred dollars and ten dollars a month during the war.  Others followed, giving according to their ability.  One man gave for himself, as well as for his wife and all his children.  On taking his seat and speakingto his wife, he jumped up and added one dollar for the new baby that he had forgotten.  When money gave out other belongings were sacrificed.  One man gave twenty-five bushels of wheat, another ten cords of wood, another his saddle, another a gun.  A notary gave twenty dollars in fees.  A cattle-man brought down the house when he said, "I have no money, but I will give a cow, and a calf a month as long as the war lasts."  The following day it was my joy as secretary to auction off the merchandise.  When all was forwarded to San Francisco we were told we had won first honors, averaging over twenty-five dollars for each voter in the town.</P>
137.sgm:<P>One interesting circumstance was the consignment to me of the first shipments of two novelties that afterward became very common.  The discovery of coal-oil and the utilization of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Humboldt County was an isolated community.  Sea steamers were both infrequent and uncertain, with ten days or two weeks and more between arrivals.  There were no roads to the interior, but there were trails, and they were often threatened by treacherous Indians.  The Indians living near us on Mad River were peaceful, but the mountain Indians were dangerous, and we never knew when we were really safe.  In Arcata we had one stone building, a store, and sometimes the frightened would resort to it at night.  In times of peace, settlers lived on Mad River, on Redwood Creek, and on the Bald Hills, where they herded their cattle.  One by one they were killed or driven in until there was not a white person living between the bay and Trinity River.  Mail carriers were shot down, and the young men of Arcata were often called upon at night to nurse the wounded.  We also organized a military company, and a night duty was drilling our men on the plaza or up past the gruesome graveyard.  My command <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>On one occasion I narrowly escaped participation in warfare.  In August, 1862, there had been outrages by daring Indian bands, killing unprotected men close to town.  Once a few of us followed the tracks of a party and traced the marauders across Mad River and toward a small prairie known to our leader, Ousley the saddler.  As we passed along a small road he caught the sign.  A whiff of a shred of cotton cloth caught on a bush denoted a smoky native.  A crushed fern, still moist, told him they had lately passed.  At his direction we took to the woods and crawled quietly toward the near-by prairie.  Our orders were to wait the signal.  If the band we expected to find was not too large, we should be given the word to attack.  If there were too many for us, we should back out and go to town for help.  We soon heard them plainly as they made camp.  We found about three times our number, and we retired very quietly and made for the nearest farmhouse that had a team.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In town many were anxious to volunteer.  My mother did not want me to go, and I must confess I was in full accord with her point of view.  I therefore served as commissary, collecting and preparing quantities of bread, bacon, and cheese for a breakfast and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:distrubuting a packed bag to each soldier.  The attack at daylight resulted in one death to our command and a number to the Indians.  It was followed up, and a few days later the band was almost annihilated.  The plunder recovered proved them guilty of many late attacks.  This was toward the end of the Indian war that had for so many years been disastrous to the community, and which in many of its aspects was deeply pathetic.  Originally the Indian population was large.  The coast Indians were spoken of as Diggers, and inferior in character.  They were generally peaceful and friendly while the mountain dwellers were inclined to hostility.  As a whole they did not represent a very high type of humanity, and all seemed to take to the vices rather than to the virtues of the white race, which was by no means represented at its best.  A few unprincipled whites were always ready to stir up trouble and the Indians were treacherous and when antagonized they killed the innocent rather than the guilty, for they were cowards and took the fewest possible chances.  I have known an Indian hater who seemed to think the only good Indian was a dead one go unmolested through an entire campaign, while a friendly old man was shot from behind while milking his cow.  The town was near the edge of the woods and no one was secure.  The fine character whom we greatly respected, --the debater of original pronunciation, --who had never wronged a human being of any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The regular army was useless in protection or punishment.  Their regulations and methods did not fit.  They made fine plans, but they failed to work.  They would locate the enemy and detail detachments to move from various points to surround and capture the foe, but when they got there the bushes were bare.  Finally battalions of mountaineers were organized among men who knew Indian ways and were their equals in cunning.  They soon satisfied the hostiles that they would be better off on the reservations that were provided and the war was at an end.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It was to the credit of Humboldt County that in the finalsettlement of the contest the rights of the Indians were quite fairly considered and the reservations set aside for their residence were of valuable land well situated and fitted for the purpose.  Hoopa Valley, on the Trinity, was purchased from its settlers and constituted a reservation protected by Fort Gaston and a garrison.  It was my pleasure to revisit the scene of my boyhood experience and assist in the transfer largely conducted through the leadership of Austin Wiley, the editor and owner of the <HI REND="italics">Humboldt Times</HI>
137.sgm:.  He was subsequently made Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the state of California, and as his clerk I helped in the administration.  When I visited the Smith River reservation, to which the Bay Indians had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Among the warm friendships formed at this time two stand out.  Two boys of about my age were to achieve brilliant careers.  Very early I became intimate with Alexander Brizard, a clerk in the store of F. Roskill, a Russian.  He was my companion in the adventure of following the Indian marauders, and my associate in the church choir and the debating club.  In 1863 he joined a fellow clerk in establishing a modest business concern, the firm being known as A. Brizard &amp; Co.; the unnamed partner was James Alexander CampbellVan Rossum, a Hollander.  They prospered amazingly.  Van Rossum died early, Brizard became the leading merchant of northern California, and his sons still continue the chain of stores that grew from the small beginning.  He was a strong, fine character.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The other boy, very near to me, was John J. DeHaven, who was first a printer, then a lawyer, then a State Senator, then a Congressman, and finally a U.S. District Judge.  He was very able and distinguished himself in every place in life to which he advanced.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In 1861, when my father had become superintendent of a Nevada County gold mine, he left me to run the post-office, cut the timothy hay, and manage a logging-camp.  It was wartime and I had a longing to enlist.  One day I received a letter from him, and as I tore it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>There had been a vacancy for some time, resulting from reduction in the pay from $3000 in gold to $500 in greenbacks, together with commissions, which were few.  My father thought it would be good experience for me and advised my acceptance.  And so at twenty-two I became a Federal officeholder.  The commission from President Lincoln is the most treasured feature of the incident.  I learned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>THE REAL BRET HARTE</P>
137.sgm:<P>BEFORE taking up the events related to my residence in San Francisco I wish to give my testimony concerning Bret Harte, perhaps the most interesting character associated with my sojourn in Humboldt.  It was before he was known to fame that I knew him; but I am able to correct some errors that have been made and I believe can contribute to a more just estimate of him as a literary artist and a man.</P>
137.sgm:<P>He has been misjudged as to character.  He was a remarkable personality, who interpreted an ear of unusual interest, vital and picturesque, with a result unparalleled in literary annals.  When he died in England in 1902 the English papers paid him very high tribute.  The <HI REND="italics">London Spectator</HI>
137.sgm:<P>"No writer of the present day has struck so powerful and original a note as he has sounded."  This is a very unusual acknowledgment from a source not given to the superlative, and fills us with wonder as to what manner of man and what sort of training had led to it.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Causes are not easily determined, but they exist and function.  Accidents rarely if ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Francis Bret Harte was born in Albany, New York, February 25, 1836.  His father was a highly educated instructor in Greek, of English-Jewish descent.  His mother was an Ostrander, a cultivated and fine character of Dutch descent.  His grandmother on his father's side was Catherine Brett.  He had an elder brother and two younger sisters.  The boys were voracious readers and began Shakespeare when six, adding Dickens at seven.  Frank developed an early sense of humor, burlesquing the baldness of his primer and mimicking the recitations of some of his fellow pupils when he entered school.  He was studious and very soon began to write.  At eleven he sent a poem to a weekly paper and was a little proud when he showed it to the family in print.  When they heartlessly pointed out its flaws he was less hilarious.</P>
137.sgm:<P>His father died when he was very young and he owed his training to his mother.  He left school at thirteen and was first a lawyer's clerk and later found work in a counting-room.  He was self-supporting at sixteen.  In 1853 his mother married Colonel Andrew Williams, an early mayor of Oakland, and removed to California.  The following year Bret and his younger sister, Margaret, followed her, arriving in Oakland in March, 1854.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>He found the new home pleasant.  The relations with his cultivated stepfather were congenial and cordial, but he suffered the fate of most untrained boys.  He was fairly well educated, but he had no trade or profession.  He was bright and quick, but remunerative employment was not readily found, and he did not relish a clerkship.  For a time he was given a place in a drugstore.  Some of his early experiences are embalmed in "How Reuben Allen Saw Life" and in "Bohemian Days."  In the latter he says:  "I had been there a week, --an idle week, spent in listless outlook for employment, a full week, in my eager absorption of the strange life around me and a photographic sensitiveness to certain scenes and incidents of those days, which stand out in my memory today as freshly as on the day they impressed me."</P>
137.sgm:<P>It was a satisfaction that he found some congenial work.  He wrote for <HI REND="italics">Putnam's</HI>
137.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Knickerbocker</HI>
137.sgm:<P>In 1856, when he was twenty, he went to Alamo, in the San Ramon Valley, as tutor in an interesting family.  He found the experience agreeable and valuable.</P>
137.sgm:<P>A letter to his sister Margaret, written soon after his arrival, shows a delightful relation between them and warm affection on his part.  It tells in a felicitous manner of the place, the people, and his experiences.  He had been to a camp-meeting and was struck with the quaint, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>From Alamo he seems to have gone directly to Tuolumne County, and it must have been late in 1856.  His delightful sketch "How I Went to the Mines" is surely autobiographical.  He says: "I had been two years in California before I ever thought of going to the mines, and my initiation into the vocation of gold-digging was partly compulsory."  He refers to "the little pioneer settlement school, of which I was the somewhat youthful, and, I fear, not over-competent master."  What he did after the school-teaching episode he does not record.  He was a stage messenger at one time.  How long he remained in and around the mines is not definitely known, but it seems <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>It was early in 1857 that Bret Harte came to Humboldt County to visit his sister Margaret, and for a brief time and to a limited extent our lives touched.  He was twenty-one and I was sixteen, so there was little intimacy, but he interested and attracted me as a new type of manhood.  He bore the marks of good breeding, education, and refinement.  He was quiet of manner, kindly but not demonstrative, with a certain reserve and aloofness.  He was of medium height, rather slight of figure, with strongly marked features and an aquiline nose.  He seemed clever rather than forcible, and presented a pathetic figure as of one who had gained no foothold on success.  He had a very pleasant voice and a modest manner, and never talked of himself.  He was always the gentleman, exemplary as to habits, courteous and good-natured, but a trifle aristocratic in bearing.  He was dressed in good taste, but was evidently in need of income.  He was willing to do anything, but with little ability to help himself.  He was simply untrained for doing anything that needed doing in that community.</P>
137.sgm:<P>He found occasional work in the drugstore, and for a time he had a small private school.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:His surviving pupils speak warmly of his sympathy and kindness.  He had little mechanical ability.  I recall seeing him try to build a fence one morning.  He bravely dug postholes, but they were pretty poor, and the completed fence was not so very straight.  He was genial and uncomplaining, and he made a few good friends.  He was an agreeable guest, and at our house was fond of a game of whist.  He was often facetious, with a neatness that was characteristic.  One day, on a stroll, we passed a very primitive new house that was wholly destitute of all ornaments or trimming, even without eaves.  It seemed modeled after a packingbox.  "That," he remarked, "must be of the <HI REND="italics">Iowan</HI>
137.sgm:<P>He was given to teasing, and could be a little malicious.  A proud and ambitious school-teacher had married a well-off but decidedly Cockney Englishman, whose aspirates could be relied upon to do the expected.  Soon after the wedding, Harte called and cleverly steered the conversation on to music and songs, finally expressing great fondness for "Kathleen Mavourneen," but professing to have forgotten the words.  The bridegroom swallowed the bait with avidity.  "Why," said he, "they begin with `The 'orn of the 'unter is 'eard on the 'ill.'"  F. B. stroked his Dundrearies while his dark eyes twinkled.  The bride's eyes flashed ominously, but there seemed to be nothing she felt like saying.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>In October, 1857, he removed to the Liscom ranch in the suburbs at the head of the bay and became the tutor of two boys, fourteen and thirteen years of age.  He had a forenoon session of school and in the afternoon enjoyed hunting on the adjacent marshes.  For his convenience in keeping run of the lessons given, he kept a brief diary, and it has lately been found.  It is of interest both in the little he records and from the significant omissions.  It reveals a very simple life of a clever, kindly, clean young man who did his work, enjoyed his outdoor recreation, read a few good books, and generally "retired at 9 1/2 P.M."  He records sending letters to various publications.  On a certain day he wrote the first lines of "Dolores."  A few days later he finished it, and mailed it to the <HI REND="italics">Knickerbocker</HI>
137.sgm:<P>He wrote and rewrote a story, "What Happened at Mendocino."  What happened to the story does not appear.  He went to church generally, and some of the sermons were good and others "vapid and trite."  Once in a while he goes to a dance, but not to his great satisfaction.  He didn't dance particularly well.  He tells of a Christmas dinner that he helped his sister to prepare.  Something made him dissatisfied with himself and he bewails his melancholy and gloomy forebodings that unfit him for rational enjoyment and cause him to be a spectacle for "gods and men."  He adds: "Thermometer of my spirit on Christmas day, 1857, 9 A.M., <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>His entries were brief and practical.  He did not write to express his feelings.</P>
137.sgm:<P>At the close of 1857 he indulged in a brief retrospect, and an emphatic statement of his determination for the future.</P>
137.sgm:<P>After referring to the fact that he was a tutor at a salary of twenty-five dollars a month and board, and that a year before he was unemployed, at the close he writes: "In these three hundred and sixty-five days I have again put forth a feeble essay toward fame and perhaps fortune.  I have tried literature, albeit in a humble way.  I have written some passable prose and it has been successfully published.  The conviction is forced on me by observation, and not by vain enthusiasm, that I am fit for nothing else.  Perhaps I may succeed; if not, I can at least make the trial.  Therefore I consecrate this year, or as much as God may grant for my services, to honest, heartfelt, sincere labor and devotion to this occupation.  God help me!  May I succeed!"</P>
137.sgm:<P>Harte profited by his experience in tutoring my two boy friends, gaining local color quite unlike that of the Sierra foothills.  Humboldt is also on the grand scale and its physical characteristics and its type of manhood were fresh and inspiring.</P>
137.sgm:<P>His familiarity with the marsh and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Many of the occurrences of those far-away days have faded from my mind, but one of them, of considerable significance to two lives, is quite clear.  Uniontown had been the county-seat, and there the <HI REND="italics">Humboldt Times</HI>
137.sgm: was published; but Eureka, across the bay, had out-grown her older sister and captured both the county-seat and the only paper in the county.  In frantic effort to sustain her failing prestige Uniontown projected a rival paper and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Northern Californian</HI>
137.sgm:<P>In a community where popular heroes are apt to be loud and aggressive, the quiet man who thinks more than he talks is adjudged effeminate.  Harte was always modest, and boasting was foreign to his nature; so he was thought devoid of spirit and strength.  But occasion brought out the unsuspected.  There had been a long and trying Indian war in and around Humboldt.  The feeling against the red men was very bitter.  It culminated in a wanton and cowardly attack on a tribe of peaceful Indians encamped on an island opposite Eureka, and men, women, and children <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>His experience was of great advantage to him in that he had learned to do something for which there was a demand.  He could not earn much as a compositor, but his wants were simple and he could earn something.  He soon secured a place on the <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
137.sgm:<P>For four years he continued on the <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
137.sgm:.  These were years of growth and increasing accomplishment.  He did good work and made good friends.  Among those whose interest he awakened were Mrs. Jessie Benton Fre&acute;mont and Thomas Starr King.  Both befriended and encouraged him.  In the critical days when California hung in the balance between the North and the South, and Starr King, by his eloquence, fervor, and magnetism, seemed to turn the scale, Bret Harte did his part in support of the friend he loved.  Lincoln had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In March, 1864, Starr King, of the glowing heart and golden tongue, preacher, patriot, and hero, fell at his post, and San Francisco mourned him and honored him as seldom falls to the lot of man.  At his funeral the Federal authorities ordered the firing of a salute from the forts in the harbor, an honor, so far as I know, never before accorded a private citizen.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Bret Harte wrote a poem of rare beauty in expression of his profound grief and his heartfelt appreciation:</P>
137.sgm:<P>RELIEVING GUARD.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Came the relief.  "What, sentry, ho!<LB>How passed the night through thy long waking?"<LB>"Cold, cheerless, dark--as may befit<LB>The hour before the dawn is breaking."<LB>"No sight? no sound?"  "No; nothing save<LB>The plover from the marshes calling,<LB>And in yon western sky, about<LB>An hour ago, a star was falling."<LB>"A star?  There's nothing strange in that."<LB>"No, nothing; but, above the thicket,<LB>Somehow it seemed to me that God<LB>Somewhere had just relieved a picket."</HI>
137.sgm:<P>This is not only good poetry; it reveals deep and fine feeling.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Through Starr King's interest, his parishioner Robert B. Swain, Superintendent of the Mint, had early in 1864 appointed Harte as his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<illus entity="a137-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FRANCIS BRET HARTE</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>In May, 1864, Harte left the <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
137.sgm:, joining Charles Henry Webb and others in a new literary venture, the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
137.sgm:<P>In the "Condensed Novels" Harte surpassed all parodists.  With clever burlesque, there was both appreciation and subtle criticism.  As Chesterton says, "Bret Harte's humor was sympathetic and analytical.  The wild, sky-breaking humor of America has its fine qualities, but it must in the nature of things be deficient in two qualities--reverence and sympathy--and these two qualities were knit into the closest texture of Bret Harte's humor."</P>
137.sgm:<P>At this time Harte lived a quiet domestic life.  He wrote steadily.  He loved to write, but he was also obliged to.  Literature is not an overgenerous paymaster, and with a growing family expenses tend to increase in a larger ratio than income.</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Harte's sketches based on early experiences are interesting and amusing.  His life in Oakland was in many ways pleasant, but he evidently retained some memories that made him enjoy indulging in a sly dig many years after.  He gives the pretended result of scientific investigation made in the far-off future as to the great earthquake that totally engulfed San Francisco.  The escape of Oakland seemed inexplicable, but a celebrated German geologist ventured to explain the phenomenon by suggesting that "there are some things that the earth cannot swallow."</P>
137.sgm:<P>My last recollection of Harte, of a purely personal nature, was of an occurrence in 1866, when he was dramatic critic of the <HI REND="italics">Morning Call</HI>
137.sgm: at the time I was doing a little reporting on the same paper.  It happened that a benefit was arranged for some charity.  "Nan, the Good-for-Nothing," was to be given by a number of amateurs.  The <HI REND="italics">Nan</HI>
137.sgm: asked me to play <HI REND="italics">Tom</HI>
137.sgm:, and I had insufficient firmness to decline.  After the play, when my face was reasonably clean, I dropped into the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
137.sgm: office, yearning for a word of commendation from Harte.  I thought he knew that I had taken the part, but he would not give me the satisfaction of referring to it.  Finally I mentioned, casually like, that I was <HI REND="italics">Tom</HI>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In July, 1868, A. Roman &amp; Co. launched the <HI REND="italics">Overland Monthly</HI>
137.sgm:, with Harte as editor.  He took up the work with eager interest.  He named the child, planned its every feature, and chose his contributors.  It was a handsome publication, modeled, in a way, on the <HI REND="italics">Atlantic Monthly</HI>
137.sgm:<P>Mark Twain, long after, alluding to this period in his life, pays this characteristic acknowledgment: "Bret Harte trimmed and trained and schooled me patiently until he changed me from an awkward utterer of coarse grotesqueness to a writer of paragraphs and chapters that have found favor in the eyes of even some of the decentest people in the land."</P>
137.sgm:<P>The first issue of the <HI REND="italics">Overland</HI>
137.sgm: was well received, but the second sounded a note heard round the world.  The editor contributed a story--"The Luck of Roaring Camp"--that was hailed as a new venture in literature.  It was so revolutionary that it shocked an estimable proofreader, and she sounded the alarm.  The publishers were timid, but the gentle editor was firm.  When it was found that it must go in or he would go out, it went--and he stayed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:When the conservative and dignified <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
137.sgm:<P>Harte had struck ore.  Up to this time he had been prospecting.  He had early found color and followed promising stringers.  He had opened some fair pockets, but with the explosion of this blast he had laid bare the true vein, and the ore assayed well.  It was high grade, and the fissure was broad.</P>
137.sgm:<P>"The Luck of Roaring Camp" was the first of a series of stories depicting the picturesque life of the early days which made California known the world over and gave it a romantic interest enjoyed by no other community.  They were fresh and virile, original in treatment, with real men and women using a new vocabulary, with humor and pathos delightfully blended.  They moved on a stage beautifully set, with a background of heroic grandeur.  No wonder that California and Bret Harte became familiar household words.  When one reflects on the fact that the exposure to the life depicted had occurred more than ten years before, from very brief experience, the wonder is incomprehensibly great.  Nothing less than genius can account for such a result.  "Tennessee's Partner," "M'liss," "The Outcasts of Poker Flat," and dozens more of these stories that became classics followed.  The supply seemed exhaustless, and fresh welcome awaited every one.</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>It was in September, 1870, that Harte in the make-up of the <HI REND="italics">Overland</HI>
137.sgm:<P>He made a number of other changes, as was his wont, for he was always painstaking and given to critical polishing.  In some instances he changed an entire line or a phrase of two lines.  The copy read:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Till at last he led off the right bower,<LB>That Nye had just hid on his knee."</HI>
137.sgm:<P>As changed on the proof it read:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Till at last he put down a right bower,<LB>Which the same Nye had dealt unto me."</HI>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>It was a happy second thought that suggested the most quoted line in this famous poem.  The fifth line of the seventh verse originally read:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Or is civilization a failure?"</HI>
137.sgm:<P>On the margin of the proof-sheet he substituted the ringing line:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"We are ruined by Chinese cheap labor,"</HI>
137.sgm:<P>--an immense improvement--the verse reading:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Then I looked up at Nye,<LB>And he gazed unto me,<LB>And he rose with a sigh,<LB>And said, `Can this be?<LB>We are ruined by Chinese cheap labor!'<LB>And he went for that heathen Chinese."</HI>
137.sgm:<P>The corrected proof, one of the treasures of the University of California, with which Harte was for a time nominally connected, bears convincing testimony to the painstaking methods by which he sought the highest degree of literary perfection.  This poem was not intended as a serious addition to contemporary verse.  Harte disclaimed any purpose whatever; but there seems just a touch of political satire.  "The Chinese must go" was becoming the popular political slogan, and he always enjoyed rowing against the tide.  The poem greatly extended his name and fame.  It was reprinted in <HI REND="italics">Punch</HI>
137.sgm:<P>One of the most amusing typographical errors on record occurred in the printing of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:this poem.  In explanation of the manner of the duplicity of <HI REND="italics">Ah Sin, Truthful James</HI>
137.sgm: was made to say:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"In his sleeves, which were long,<LB>He had twenty-one packs:</HI>
137.sgm:<P>and that was the accepted reading for many years, in spite of the physical impossibility of concealing six hundred and ninety-three cards and one arm in even a Chinaman's sleeve.  The game they played was euchre, where bowers are supreme, and what Harte wrote was "jacks," not "packs."  Probably the same pious proofreader who was shocked at the "Luck" did not know the game, and, as the rhyme was perfect, let it slip.  Later editions corrected the error, though it is still often seen.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Harte gave nearly three years to the <HI REND="italics">Overland</HI>
137.sgm:.  His success had naturally brought him flattering offers, and the temptation to realize on his reputation seems to have been more than he could withstand.  The <HI REND="italics">Overland</HI>
137.sgm:<P>Harte, with his family, left San Francisco in February, 1871.  They went first to Chicago, where he confidently expected to be editor of a magazine to be called the <HI REND="italics">Lakeside Monthly</HI>
137.sgm:.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Soon after arriving at New York he visited Boston, dining with the Saturday Club and visiting Howells, then editor of the <HI REND="italics">Atlantic</HI>
137.sgm:<P>For seven years New York City was generally his winter home.  Some of his summers were spent in Newport, and some in New Jersey.  In the former he wrote "A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>To earn money sorely needed he took the distasteful lecture field.  His two subjects were "The Argonauts" and "American Humor."  His letters to his wife at this time tell the pathetic tale of a sensitive, troubled soul struggling to earn money to pay debts.  He writes with brave humor, but the work was uncongenial and the returns disappointing.</P>
137.sgm:<P>From Ottawa he writes: "Do not let this worry you, but kiss the children for me, and hope for the best.  I should send you some money, but there <HI REND="italics">isn't any to send</HI>
137.sgm:<P>A few days later he wrote from Lawrence, the morning after an unexpectedly good audience: "I made a hundred dollars by the lecture, and it is yours for yourself, Nan, to buy minxes with, if you want to."</P>
137.sgm:<P>From Washington he writes: "Thank you, dear Nan, for your kind, hopeful letter.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>No one can read these letters without feeling that they mirror the real man, refined of feeling, kindly and humorous, but not strong of courage, oppressed by obligations, and burdened by doubts of how he was to care for those he loved.  With all his talent he could not command independence, and the lot of the man who earns less than it costs to live is hard to bear.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Harte had the faculty of making friends, even if by neglect he sometimes lost them, and they came to his rescue in this trying time.  Charles A. Dana and others secured for him an appointment by President Hayes as Commercial Agent at Crefeld, Prussia.  In June, 1878, he sailed for England, leaving his family at Sea Cliff, Long Island, litte supposing that he would never see them or America again.</P>
137.sgm:<P>On the day he reached Crefeld he wrote his wife in a homesick and almost despondent strain: "I am to all appearance utterly friendless; I have not received the first act of kindness or courtesy from anyone.  I think things must be better soon.  I shall, please God, make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Here is the artistic, impressionable temperament, easily disheartened, with little self reliant courage or grit.  But he seems to have felt a little ashamed of his plaint, for at midnight of the same day he wrote a second letter, half apologetic and much more hopeful, just because one or two people had been a little kind and he had been taken out to a <HI REND="italics">fest</HI>
137.sgm:<P>Soon after, he wrote a letter to his younger son, then a small boy.  It told of a pleasant drive to the Rhine, a few miles away.  He concludes: "It was all very wonderful, but Papa thought after all he was glad his boys live in a country that is as yet <HI REND="italics">pure</HI>
137.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">sweet</HI>
137.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">good</HI>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In May, 1880, he was made Consul at Glasgow, a position that he filled for five years.  During this period he spent a considerable part of his time in London and in visiting at country homes.  He lectured and wrote and made many friends, among the most valued of whom were William Black and Walter Besant.</P>
137.sgm:<P>A new administration came in with 1885 and Harte was superseded.  He went to London and settled down to a simple and regular life.  For ten years he lived with the Van de Veldes, friends of long standing.  He wrote with regularity and published several volumes of stories and sketches.  In 1885 Harte visited Switzerland.  Of the Alps he wrote: "In spite of their pictorial composition I wouldn't give a mile of the dear old Sierras, with their honesty, sincerity, and magnificent uncouthness, for a hundred thousand kilometers of the picturesque Vaud."</P>
137.sgm:<P>Of Geneva he wrote: "I thought I should not like it, fancying it a kind of continental Boston, and that the shadow of John Calvin and the old reformers, or still worse the sentimental idiocy of Rousseau and the De Staels, still lingered."  But he did like it, and wrote brilliantly of Lake Leman and Mont Blanc.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Returning to his home in Aldershot he resumed work, giving some time to a libretto for a musical comedy, but his health was failing and he accomplished little.  A surgical operation for cancer of the throat in March, 1902, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Pathetic and inexplicable were the closing days of this gifted man.  An exile from his native land, unattended by family or kin, sustaining his lonely life by wringing the dregs of memory, and clasping in farewell the hands of a fancied friend of his dear old reprobate Colonel, he, like Kentuck, "drifted away into the shadowy river that flows forever to the unknown sea."</P>
137.sgm:<P>In his more than forty years of authorship he was both industrious and prolific.  In the nineteen volumes of his published work there must be more than two hundred titles of stories and sketches, and many of them are little known.  Some of them are disappointing in comparison with his earlier and perhaps best work, but many of them are charming and all are in his delightful style, with its undertone of humor that becomes dominant at unexpected intervals.  His literary form was distinctive, with a manner not derived from the schools or copied from any of his predecessors, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>His greatest achievement was in faithfully mirroring the life of a new and striking epoch.  He seems to have discovered that it was picturesque and to have been almost alone in impressing this fact on the world.  He sketched pictures of pioneer life as he saw or imagined it with matchless beauty and compelled the interest and enjoyment of all mankind.</P>
137.sgm:<P>His chief medium was the short story, to which he gave a new vogue.  Translated into many tongues, his tales became the source of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>That he was gifted as a poet no one can deny.  Perhaps his most striking use of his power as a versifier was in connection with the romantic Spanish background of California history.  Such work as "Concepcion de Arguello" is well worth while.  In his "Spanish Idylls and Legends" he catches the fine spirit of the period and connects California with a past of charm and beauty.  His patriotic verse has both strength and loveliness and reflects a depth of feeling that his lighter work does not lead us to expect.  In his dialect verse he revels in fun and shows himself a genuine and cleanly humorist.</P>
137.sgm:<P>If we search for the source of his great power we may not expect to find it; yet we may decide that among his endowments his extraordinary power of absorption contributes very largely.  His early reference to "eager absorption" and "photographic sensitiveness" are singularly significant expressions.  Experience teaches the plodder, but the man of genius, supremely typified by Shakespeare, needs not to acquire knowledge slowly and painfully.  Sympathy, imagination, and insight reveal truth, and as a plate, sensitized, holds indefinitely the records of the exposure, so Harte, forty years after in London, holds in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Bret Harte was also gifted with an agreeable personality.  He was even-tempered and good-natured.  He was an ideal guest and enjoyed his friends.  Whatever his shortcomings and whatever his personal responsibility for them, he deserves to be treated with the consideration and generosity he extended to others.  He was never censorious, and instances of his magnanimity are many.  Severity of judgment is a custom that few of us can afford, and to be generous is never a mistake.  Harte was extremely sensitive, and he deplored controversy.  He was quite capable of suffering in silence if defense of self might reflect on others.  His deficiencies were trivial but damaging, and their heavy retribution he bore with dignity, retaining the respect of those who knew him.</P>
137.sgm:<P>As to what he was, as man and author, he is entitled to be judged by a jury of his peers.  I could quote at length from a long list of associates of high repute, but they all concur fully with the comprehensive judgment of Ina Coolbrith, who knew him intimately.  She says, "I can only speak of him in terms of unqualified praise as author, friend, and man."</P>
137.sgm:<P>In the general introduction that Harte wrote for the first volume of his collected stories he refers to the charge that he "confused <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:recognized standards of morality by extenuating lives of recklessness and often criminality with a single solitary virtue" as "the cant of too much mercy."  He then adds: "Without claiming to be a religious man or a moralist, but simply as an artist, he shall reverently and humbly conform to the rules laid down by a great poet who created the parables of the Prodigal Son and the Good Samaritan, whose works have lasted eighteen hundred years, and will remain when the present writer and his generations are forgotten.  And he is conscious of uttering no original doctrine in this, but only of voicing the beliefs of a few of his literary brethren happily living, and one gloriously dead,<ANCHOR ID="n4-11">*</ANCHOR>
137.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-11">Evidenlty Dickens.</NOTE>
137.sgm:<P>Bret Harte had a very unusual combination of sympathetic insight, emotional feeling, and keen sense of the dramatic.  In the expression of the result of these powers he commanded a literary style individually developed, expressive of a rare personality.  He was vividly imaginative, and he had exacting ideals of precision in expression.  His taste was unerring.  The depth and power of the great soul were not his.  He was the artist, not the prophet.  He was a delightful painter of the life he saw, an interpreter of the romance of his day, a keen but merciful satirist, a humorist without reproach, a patriot, a critic, and a kindly, modest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In failing to honor him California suffers.  He should be cherished as her early interpreter, if not as her spirit's discoverer, and ranked high among those who have contributed to her fame.  He is the representative literary figure of the state.  In her imaginary Temple of Fame or Hall of Heroes he deserves a prominent, if not the foremost, niche.  As the generations move forward he must not be forgotten.  Bret Harte at our hands needs not to be idealized, but he does deserve to be justly, gratefully, and fittingly realized.</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO--THE SIXTIES</P>
137.sgm:<P>WE are familiar with the romantic birth of San Francisco and its precocious childhood; we are well acquainted with its picturesque background of Spanish history and the glorious days of '49; but I doubt if we are as well informed as to the significant and perhaps equally important second decade.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It was my fortune to catch a hurried glance of San Francisco in 1855, when the population was about forty-five thousand.  I was then on the way from New England to my father's home in Humboldt County.  I next saw it in 1861 while on my way to and from attendance at the State Fair.  In 1864 I took up my residence in the city and it has since been continuous.</P>
137.sgm:<P>That the almost neglected sixties may have some setting, let me briefly trace the beginnings.  Things moved slowly when America was discovered.  Columbus found the mainland in 1503.  Ten years later Balboa reached the Pacific, and, wading into the ocean, modestly claimed for his sovereign all that bordered its shores.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>San Francisco Bay was discovered by a land party.  It was August 6, 1775, seven weeks after the battle of Bunker Hill, that Ayala cautiously found his way into the bay and anchored the "San Carlos" off Sausalito.  Five days before the Declaration of Independence was signed Moraga and his men, the first colonists, arrived in San Francisco and began getting out the timber to build the fort at the Presidio and the church at Mission Dolores.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Vancouver, in 1792, poking into an unknown harbor, found a good landing-place at a cove around the first point he rounded at his right.  The Spaniards called it Yerba Buena, after the fragrant running vine that abounded in the lee of the sandhills which filled the present site of Market Street, especially at a point now occupied by the building of the Mechanics-Mercantile Library.  There was no human habitation in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>An occasional whaler or a trader in hides and tallow came and went, but foreigners were not encouraged to settle.  It was in 1814 that the first "Gringo" came.  In 1820 there were thirteen in all California, three of whom were Americans.  In 1835 William A. Richardson was the first foreign resident of Yerba Buena.  He was allowed to lay out a street and build a structure of boards and ship's sails in the Calle de Fundacion, which generally followed the lines of the present Grant Avenue.  The spot approximates number 811 of the avenue today.  When Dana came in 1835 it was the only house visible.  The following year Jacob P. Leese built a complete house, and it was dedicated by a celebration and ball on the Fourth of July in which the whole community participated.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The settlement grew slowly.  In 1840 there were sixteen foreigners.  In 1844 there were a dozen houses and fifty people.  In 1845 there were but five thousand people in all the state.  The missions had been disbanded and the Presidio was manned by one gray-haired soldier.  The Mexican War brought renewed life.  On July 9, 1846, Commodore Sloat sent Captain Montgomery with the frigate "Portsmouth," and the American flag was raised on the staff in the plaza of 1835, since called Portsmouth Square.  Thus began the era of American <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The next year gold was discovered.  A sleepy, romantic, shiftless but picturesque community became wide-awake, energetic, and aggressive.  San Francisco leaped into prominence.  Every nation on earth sent its most ambitious and enterprising as well as its most restless and irresponsible citizens.  In the last nine months of 1849, seven hundred shiploads were landed in a houseless town.  They largely left for the mines, but more remained than could be housed.  They lived on and around hulks run ashore and thousands found shelter in Happy Valley tents.  A population of two thousand at the beginning of the year was twenty thousand at the end.  It was a gold-crazed community.  Everything consumed was imported.  Gold dust was the only export.</P>
137.sgm:<P>From 1849 to 1860, gold amounting to over six hundred million dollars was produced.  The maximum--eighty-one millions--was reached in 1852.  The following year showed a decline of fourteen millions, and 1855 saw a further decline of twelve millions.  Alarm was felt.  At the same ratio of decline, in less than four years production would cease.  It was plainly evident, if the state were to exist and grow, that other resources must be developed.</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In the first decade there were periods of great depression.  Bank and commercial failures were very frequent occurrences in 1854.  The state was virtually only six years old--but what wonderful years they had been!  In the splendor of achievement and the glamour of the golden fleece we lose sight of the fact that the community was so small.  In the whole state there were not more than 350,000 people, of whom a seventh lived in San Francisco.  There were indications that the tide of immigration had reached its height.  In 1854 arrivals had exceeded departures by twenty-four thousand.  In 1855 the excess dropped to six thousand.</P>
137.sgm:<P>My first view of San Francisco left a vivid impression of a city in every way different from any I had ever seen.  The streets were planked, the buildings were heterogeneous--some of brick or stone, others little more than shacks.  Portsmouth Square was the general center of interest, facing the City Hall and the Post Office.  Clay Street Hill was higher then than now.  I know it because I climbed to its top to call on a boy who came on the steamer and lived there.  There was but little settlement to the west of the summit.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The leading hotel was the International, lately opened, on Jackson Street below Montgomery.  It was considered central in location, being convenient to the steamer landings, the Custom House, and the wholesale trade.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The growth of the city southward had already begun.  The effort to develop North Beach commercially had failed.  Meiggs' Wharf was little used; the Cobweb Saloon, near its shore end, was symbolic.  Telegraph Hill and its semaphore and time-ball were features of business life.  It was well worth climbing for the view, which Bayard Taylor pronounced the finest in the world.</P>
137.sgm:<P>At this time San Francisco monopolized the commerce of the coast.  Everything that entered California came through the Golden Gate, and it nearly all went up the Sacramento River.  It was distinctly the age of gold.  Other resources were not considered.  This all seemed a very insecure basis for a permanent state.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In 1860 the Pony Express was established.  bringing "the States," as the East was generally designated, considerably nearer.  It took but ten and a half days to St. Louis, and thirteen to New York, with postage five dollars an ounce.  Steamers left on the first and fifteenth of the month, and the twenty-eighth and fourteenth were religiously observed as days for collection.  No solvent man of honor failed to settle his account on "steamer day."</P>
137.sgm:<P>The election of Lincoln, followed by the threat of war, was disquieting, and the large southern element was out of sympathy with anything like coercion.  But patriotism triumphed.  Early in 1861 a mass meeting was held at the corner of Montgomery and Market streets, and San Francisco pledged her loyalty.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In November, 1861, I attended the State Fair at Sacramento as correspondent for the <HI REND="italics">Humboldt Times</HI>
137.sgm:.  About the only impression of San Francisco on my arrival was the disgust I felt for the proprietor of the hotel at which I stopped, when, in reply to my eager inquiry for war news, he was only able to say that he believed there had been some fighting somewhere in Virginia.  This to one starving for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>After a week of absorbing interest, in a fair that seemed enormously important and impressive, I timed my return so as to spend Sunday in San Francisco, and it was made memorable by attending, morning and evening, the Unitarian church, then in Stockton near Sacramento, and hearing Starr King.  He had come from Boston the year before, proposing to fill the pulpit for a year, and from the first aroused great enthusiasm.  I found the church crowded and was naturally consigned to a back seat, which I shared with a sewing-machine, for it was war-time and the women were very active in relief work.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The gifted preacher was thirty-seven years old, but seemed younger.  He was of medium height, had a kindly face with a generous mouth, a full forehead, and dark, glowing eyes.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In June, 1864, I became a resident of San Francisco, rejoining the family and becoming a clerk in the office of the Superintendent of Indian Affairs.  The city was about one-fifth its present size, claiming a population of 110,000.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I want to give an idea of San Francisco's character and life at that time, and of general conditions in the second decade.  It is not easy to do, and demands the reader's help and sympathy.  Let him imagine, if he will, that he is visiting San Francisco for the first time, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:and that he is a personal friend of the writer, who takes a day off to show him the city.  In 1864 one could arrive here only by steamer; there were no railways.  I meet my friend at the gangplank of the steamer on the wharf at the foot of Broadway.  To reach the car on East Street (now the Embarcadero), we very likely skirt gaping holes in the planked wharf, exposing the dark water lapping the supporting piles, and are assailed by bilge-like odors that escape.  Two dejected horses await us.  Entering the car we find two lengthwise seats upholstered in red plush.  If it be winter, the floor is liberally covered by straw, to mitigate the mud.  If it be summer, the trade winds are liberally charged with fine sand and infinitesimal splinters from the planks which are utilized for both streets and sidewalks.  We rattle along East and intersecting streets until we reach Sansome, upon which we proceed to Bush, which practically bounds the business district on the south, thence we meander by a circuitous route to Laurel Hill Cemetery near Lone Mountain.  A guide is almost necessary.  An incoming stranger once asked the conductor to let him off at the American Exchange, which the car passed.  He was surprised at the distance to his destination.  At the cemetery end of the line he discovered that the conductor had forgotten him, but was assured that he would stop at the hotel on the way back.  The next thing he knew he reached the wharf; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>In the present instance we alight from the car when it reaches Montgomery Street, at the Occidental Hotel, new and attractive, well managed by a New Yorker named Leland and especially patronized by army people.  We rest briefly and start out for a preliminary survey.  Three blocks to the south we reach Market Street and gaze upon the outer edge of the bustling city.  Across the magnificently wide but rude and unfinished street, at the immediate right, where the Palace Hotel is to stand, we see St. Patrick's Church and an Orphan Asylum.  A little beyond, at the corner of Third Street, is a huge hill of sand covering the present site of the Claus Spreckels Building, upon which a steam-paddy is at work loading flat steam cars that run Mission-ward.  The lot now occupied by the Emporium is the site of a large Catholic school.  At our left, stretching to the bay are coal-yards, foundries, planing-mills, box-factories, and the like.  It will be years before business crosses Market Street.  Happy Valley and Pleasant Valley, beyond, are well covered by inexpensive residences.  The North Beach and South Park car line connects the fine residence district on and around Rincon Hill with the fine stretches of northern Stockton Street and the environs of Telegraph Hill.  At the time I picture, no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Turning from the apparent jumping-off place we cross to the "dollar side" and join the promenaders who pass in review or pause to gaze at the shop windows.  Montgomery Street has been pre-eminent since the early days and is now at its height.  For a long time Clay Street harbored the leading dry-goods stores, like the City of Paris, but all are struggling for place in Montgomery.  Here every business is represented--Beach, Roman, and Bancroft, the leading booksellers; Barrett &amp; Sherwood, Tucker, and Andrews, jewelers; Donohoe, Kelly &amp; Co., John Sime, and Hickox &amp; Spear, bankers; and numerous dealers in carpets, furniture, hats, French shoes, optical goods, etc.  Of course Barry &amp; Patten's was not the only saloon.  Passing along we are almost sure to see some of the characters of the day--certainly Emperor Norton and Freddie Coombs (a reincarnated Franklin), probably Colonel Stevenson, with his Punch-like countenance, towering Isaac Friedlander, the poor rich Michael Reese, handsome Hall McAllister, and aristocratic Ogden Hoffman.  Should the fire-bell ring we will see Knickerbocker No. Five in action, with Chief Scannell and "Bummer" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Luncheon being in order we are embarrassed with riches.  Perhaps the Mint restaurant is as good as the best and probably gives a sight of more prominent politicians than any other resort; but something quite characteristic is the daily gathering at Jury's, a humble hole-in-the-wall in Merchant Street back of the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
137.sgm:<P>Four lawyers who like one another, and like good living as well, have a special table.  Alexander Campbell, Milton Andros, George Sharp, and Judge Dwinelle will stop first in the Clay Street Market, conveniently opposite, and select the duck, fish, or English mutton-chops for the day's menu.  One of the number bears the choice to the kitchen and superintends its preparation while the others engage in shrimps and table-talk until it is served.  If Jury's is overflowing with custom, there are two other French restaurants alongside.</P>
137.sgm:<P>After luncheon we have a glimpse of the business district, following back on the "two-bit" side of the street.  At Clay we pass a saloon with a cigar-stand in front and find a group <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:listening to a man with bushy hair and a reddish mustache, who in an easy attitude and in a quaintly drawling voice is telling a story.  We await the laugh and pass on, and I say that he is a reporter, lately from Nevada, called Mark Twain.  Very likely we encounter at Commercial Street, on his way to the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
137.sgm: office, a well-dressed young man with Dundreary whiskers and an aquiline nose.  He nods to me and I introduce Bret Harte, secretary to the Superintendent of the Mint, and author of the clever "Condensed Novels" being printed in the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
137.sgm:<P>Having fairly surveyed the legitimate business we wish to see something of the engrossing avocation of most of the people of the city, of any business or no business, and we pass on to Montgomery, crossing over to the center <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>We saunter up Clay, passing Burr's Savings Bank and a few remaining stores, to Kearny, and Portsmouth Square, whose glory is departing.  The City Hall faces it, and so does Exempt Engine House, but dentists' offices and cheap theaters and Chinese stores are crowding in.  Clay Street holds good boarding-houses, but decay is manifest.  We pass on to Stockton, still a favorite residence street; turning south we pass, near Sacramento, the church in which Starr King first preached, now proudly owned by the negro Methodists.  At Post we reach Union Square, nearly covered by the wooden pavilion in which the Mechanics' Institute holds its fairs.  Diagonally opposite the southeast corner of the desecrated park are the buildings of the ambitious City College, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Very likely, seeing the church, I might be reminded of one of Mr. King's most valued friends, and suggest that we call upon him at the Golden Gate Flour-mill in Pine Street, where the California Market was to stand.  If we met Horace Davis, I should feel that I had presented one of our best citizens.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Dinner presents many opportunities; but I am inclined to think we shall settle on Frank Garcia's restaurant in Montgomery near Jackson, where good service awaits us, and we may hear the upraised voices of some of the big lawyers who frequent the place.  For the evening we have the choice between several bands of minstrels, but if Forrest and John McCullough are billed for "Jack Cade" we shall probably call on Tom Maguire.  After the strenuous play we pass up Washington Street to Peter Job's and indulge in his incomparable ice-cream.</P>
137.sgm:<P>On Sunday I shall continue my guidance.  Churches are plentiful and preachers are good.  In the afternoon I think I may venture to invite my friend to The Willows, a public garden between Mission and Valencia and Seventeenth and Nineteenth streets.  We shall hear excellent music in the open air and can sit at a small table and sip good beer.  I find such indulgence far less wicked than I had been led to believe.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>When there is something distinctive in a community a visitor is supposed to take it in, and in the evening we attend the meeting of the Dashaway Association in its own hall in Post Street near Dupont.  It numbers five thousand members and meets Sunday mornings and evenings.  Strict temperance is a live issue at this time.  The Sons of Temperance maintain four divisions.  There are besides two lodges of Good Templars and a San Francisco Temperance Union.  And in spite of all this the city feels called upon to support a Home for Inebriates at Stockton and Chestnut streets, to which the supervisors contribute two hundred and fifty dollars a month.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I shall feel that I am derelict if I do not manage a jaunt to the Cliff House.  The most desirable method demands a span of horses for a spin out Point Lobos Avenue.  We may, however, be obliged to take a McGinn bus that leaves the Plaza hourly.  It will be all the same when we reach the Cliff and gaze on Ben Butler and his companion sea-lions as they disport themselves in the ocean or climb the rocks.  Wind or fog may greet us, but the indifferent monsters roar, fight, and play, while the restless waves roll in.  We must, also, make a special trip to Rincon Hill and South Park to see how and where our magnates dwell.  The 600 block in Folsom Street must not be neglected.  The residences of such men as John Parrott and Milton S. Latham are almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>We shall leave out something distinctive if we do not call at the What Cheer House in Sacramento Street below Montgomery, a hostelry for men, with moderate prices, notwithstanding many unusual privileges.  It has a large reading-room and a library of five thousand volumes, besides a very respectable museum.  Guests are supplied with all facilities for blacking their own boots, and are made at home in every way.  Incidentally the proprietor made a good fortune, a large part of which he invested in turning his home at Fourteenth and Mission streets into a pleasure resort known as Woodward's Gardens, which for many years was our principal park, art gallery and museum.</P>
137.sgm:<P>These are a few of the things I could have shown.  But to know and appreciate the spirit and character of a city one must live in it and be of it; so I beg to be dismissed as a guide and to offer experiences and events that may throw some light on life in the stirring sixties.</P>
137.sgm:<P>When I migrated from Humboldt County and enlisted for life as a San Franciscan I lived with my father's family in a small brick house <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Much had been accomplished in city building, but the process was continuing.  Few of us realize the obstacles overcome.  Fifteen years before, the site was the rugged end of a narrow peninsula, with high rock hills, wastes of drifting sand, a curving cove of beach, bordered with swamps and estuaries, and here and there a few oases in the form of small valleys.  In 1864 the general lines of the city were practically those of today.  It was the present San Francisco, laid out but not filled out.  There was little west of Larkin Street and quite a gap between the city proper and the Mission.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Size in a city greatly modifies character.  In 1864 I found a compact community; whatever was going on seemed to interest all.  We now have a multitude of unrelated circles; then there was one great circle including the sympathetic whole.  The one theater that offered the legitimate drew and could accommodate all who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>In the sixties, church congregations and lecture audiences were much larger than they are now.  There seemed always to be some one preacher or lecturer who was the vogue, practically monopolizing public interest.  His name might be Scudder or Kittredge or Moody, but while he lasted everybody rushed to hear him.  And there was commonly some special fad that prevailed.  Spiritualism held the boards for quite a time.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Changes in real-estate values were a marked feature of the city's life.  The laying out of Broadway was significant of expectations.  Banks in the early days were north of Pacific in Montgomery, but very soon the drift to the south began.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In 1862, when the Unitarian church in Stockton street near Sacramento was found too small, it was determined to push well to the front of the city's growth.  Two lots were under final consideration, the northwest corner of Geary and Powell, where the St. Francis now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The evolution of pavements has been an interesting incident of the city's life.  Planks were cheap and they held down some of the sand, but they grew in disfavor.  In 1864 the Superintendent of Streets reported that in the previous year 1,365,000 square feet of planks had been laid, and 290,000 square feet had been paved with cobbles, a lineal mile of which cost $80,000.  How much suffering they cost the militia who marched on them is not reported.  Nicholson pavement was tried and found wanting.  Basalt blocks found brief favor.  Finally we reached the modern era and approximate perfection.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Checker-board street planning was a serious misfortune to the city, and it was aggravated by the narrowness of most of the streets.  Kearny Street, forty-five and one-half feet wide, and Dupont, forty-four and one-half feet, were absurd.  In 1865 steps were taken to add thirty feet to the west side of Kearny.  In 1866 the work was done, and it proved a great success.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The first Sunday after my arrival in San Francisco I went to the Unitarian church and heard the wonderfully attractive and satisfying Dr. Bellows, temporary supply.  It was the beginning of a church connection that still continues and to which I owe more than I can express.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Dr. Bellows had endeared himself to the community by his warm appreciation of their liberal support of the Sanitary Commission during the Civil War.  The interchange of messages between him in New York and Starr King in San Francisco had been stimulating and effective.  When the work was concluded it was found that California had furnished one-fourth of the $4,800,000 expended.  Governor Low headed the San Francisco committee.  The Pacific Coast, with a population of half a million, supplied one-third of all the money spent by this forerunner of the Red Cross.  The other states of the Union, with a population of about thirty-two million, supplied two-thirds.  But California was far away and it was not thought wise to drain the West of its loyal forces, and we ought to have given freely of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>While San Francisco was unquestionably loyal, there were not a few Southern sympathizers, and loyalists were prepared for trouble.  I soon discovered that a secret Union League was active and vigilant.  Weekly meetings for drill were held in the pavilion in Union Square, admission being by password only.  I promptly joined.  The regimental commander was Martin J. Burke, chief of police.  My company commander was George T. Knox, a prominent notary public.  I also joined the militia, choosing the State Guard, Captain Dawes, which drilled weekly in the armory in Market Street opposite Dupont.  Fellow members were Horace Davis and his brother George, Charles W. Wendte (now an eastern D. D.), Samuel L. Cutter, Fred Gummer of the Unitarian church, Henry Michaels, and W. W. Henry, father of the present president of Mills College.  Our active service was mainly confined to marching over the cruel cobble-stones on the Fourth of July and other show-off occasions, while commonly we indulged in an annual excursion and target practice in the wilds of Alameda.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>Once we saw real service.  When the news of the assassination of Lincoln reached San Francisco the excitement was intense.  Newspapers that had slandered him or been lukewarm in his support suffered.  The militia was called out in fear of a riot and passed a night in the basement of Platt's Hall.  But preparedness was all that was needed.  A few days later we took part in a most imposing procession.  All the military and most other organizations followed a massive catafalque and a riderless horse through streets heavily draped with black.  The line of march was long, arms were reversed, the sorrowing people crowded the way, and solemnity and grief on every hand told how deeply Lincoln was loved.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I had cast my first presidential vote for him, at Turn Verein Hall, Bush Street, November 6, 1864.  When the news of his re-election by the voters of every loyal state came to us, we went nearly wild with enthusiasm, but our heartiest rejoicing came with the fall of Richmond.  We had a great procession, following the usual route--from Washington Square to Montgomery, to Market, to Third, to South Park, where fair women from crowded balconies waved handkerchiefs and flags to shouting marchers--and back to the place of beginning.  Processioning was a great function of those days, observed by the cohorts of St. Patrick and by all political parties.  It was a painful process, for the street pavement was simply awful.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>Sometimes there were trouble and mild assaults.  The only recollection I have of striking a man is connected with a torchlight procession celebrating some Union victory.  When returning from south of Market, a group of jeering toughs closed in on us and I was lightly hit.  I turned and using my oil-filled lamp at the end of a staff as a weapon, hit out at my assailant.  The only evidence that the blow was an effective one was the loss of the lamp; borne along by solid ranks of patriots I clung to an unilluminated stick.  Party feeling was strong in the sixties and bands and bonfires, plentiful.</P>
137.sgm:<P>At one election the Democrats organized a corps of rangers, who marched with brooms, indicative of the impending clean sweep by which they were to "turn the rascals out."  For each presidential election drill crops were organized, but the Blaine Invincibles didn't exactly prove so.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The Republican party held a long lease of power, however.  Governor Low was a very popular executive, while municipally the People's Party, formed in 1856 by adherents of the Vigilance Committee, was still in the saddle, giving good, though not far-sighted and progressive, government.  Only those who experienced the abuses under the old methods of conducting elections can realize the value of the provision for the uniform ballot and a quiet ballot box, adopted in 1869.  There had been no secrecy or privacy, and peddlers of rival <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>During my first year in government employ the depreciation in legal-tender notes in which we were paid was very embarrassing.  One hundred dollars in notes would bring but thirty-five or forty dollars in gold, and we could get nothing we wanted except with gold.</P>
137.sgm:<P>My second year in San Francisco I lived in Howard Street near First and was bookkeeper for a stock-broker.  I became familiar with the fascinating financial game that followed the development of the Comstock lode, discovered in 1859.  It was 1861 before production was large.  Then began the silver age, a new era that completely transformed California and made San Francisco a great center of financial power.  Within twenty years $340,000,000 poured into her banks.  The world's silver output increased from forty millions a year to sixty millions.  In September of 1862 the stock board was organized.  At first a share in a company represented a running foot on the lode's length.  In 1871, Mr. Cornelius O'Connor bought ten shares of Consolidated Virginia at eight dollars a share.  When it had been divided into one thousand shares and he was offered $680 a share, he had the sagacity to sell, realizing a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The effect of such unparalleled riches was wide-spread.  It made Nevada a state and gave great impetus to the growth of San Francisco.  It had a marked influence on society and modified the character of the city itself.  Fifteen years of abnormal excitement, with gains and losses incredible in amount, unsettled the stability of trade and orderly business and proved a demoralizing influence.  Speculation became a habit.  It was gambling adjusted to all conditions, with equal opportunity for millionaire or chambermaid, and few resisted altogether.  Few felt shame, but some were secretive.</P>
137.sgm:<P>A few words are due Adolph Sutro, who dealt in cigars in his early manhood, but went to Nevada in 1859 and by 1861 owned a quartz-mill.  In 1866 he became impressed with the idea that the volume of water continually flowing into the deeper mines of the Comstock lode would eventually demand an outlet on the floor of Carson Valley, four miles away.  He secured the legislation and surprised both friends and enemies by raising the money to begin construction of the famous Sutro Tunnel.  He began the work in 1859, and in some way carried it through, spending five million dollars.  The mine-owners did not want to use his tunnel, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The memories that cluster around a certain building are often impressive, both intrinsically and by reason of their variety.  Platt's Hall is connected with experiences of first interest.  For many years it was the place for most occasional events of every character.  It was a large square auditorium on the spot now covered by the Mills Building.  Balls, lectures, concerts, political meetings, receptions, everything that was popular and wanted to be considered first-class went to Platt's Hall.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Starr King's popularity had given the Unitarian church and Sunday-school a great hold on the community.  At Christmas its festivals were held in Platt's Hall.  We paid a hundred dollars for rent and twenty-five dollars for a Christmas-tree.  Persons who served as doorkeepers or in any other capacity received ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>In Platt's Hall wonderfully fine orchestral concerts were held, under the very capable direction of Rudolph Herold.  Early in the sixties Caroline Richings had a successful season of English opera.  Later the Howsons charmed us for a time.  All the noteworthy lecturers of the world who visited California received us at Platt's Hall.  Beecher made a great impression.  Carl Schurz, also, stirred us deeply.  I recall one clever sentence.  He said, "When the time came that this country needed a poultice it elected President Hayes and got it."  Of our local talent real eloquence found its best expression in Henry Edgerton.  The height of enthusiasm was registered in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>One of the most striking coincidences I ever knew occurred in connection with the comparatively mild earthquake of 1866.  It visited us on a Sunday at the last moments of the morning sermon.  Those in attendance at the Unitarian church were engaged in singing the last hymn, standing with books in hand.  The movement was not violent but threatening.  It flashed through my mind that the strain on a building with a large unsupported roof must be great.  Faces blanched, but all stood quietly waiting the end, and all would have gone well had not the large central pipe of the organ, apparently unattached, only its weight holding it in place, tottered on its base and leaped over the heads of the choir, falling into the aisle in front of the first pews.  The effect was electric.  The large congregation waited for no benediction or other form of dismissal.  The church was emptied in an incredibly short time, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:congregation was very soon in the middle of the street, hymnbooks in hand.  The coincidence was that the verse being sung was,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The seas shall melt,<LB>And skies to smoke decay,<LB>Rocks turn to dust,<LB>And mountains fall away."</HI>
137.sgm:<P>We had evening services at the time, and Dr. Stebbins again gave out the same hymn, and this time we sang it through.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The story of Golden Gate Park and how the city got it is very interesting, but must be much abridged.  In 1866 I pieced out a modest income by reporting the proceedings of the Board of Supervisors and the School Board for the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
137.sgm:<P>They were mostly squatters, and the prize was a rich one.  Congress had decreed "that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The undistributed outside lands to be disposed of comprised eighty-four hundred acres.  The supervisors determined to reserve one thousand acres for a park.  Some wanted to improve the opportunity to secure without cost considerably more.  The <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
137.sgm: advocated an extension that would bring a bell-shaped panhandle down to the Yerba Buena Cemetery, property owned by the city and now embraced in the Civic Center.  After long consideration a compromise was made by which the claimants paid to those whose lands were kept for public use ten per cent of the value of the lands distributed.  By this means 1,347.46 acres were rescued, of which Golden Gate Park included 1,049.31, the rest being used for a cemetery, Buena Vista Park, public squares, school lots, etc.  The ordinances accomplishing the qualified <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The story of the development of Golden Gate Park is well known.  The beauty and charm are more eloquent than words, and John McLaren ranks high among the city's benefactors.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The years from 1860 to 1870 marked many changes in the character and appearance of San Francisco.  Indeed, its real growth and development date from the end of the first decade.  Before that we were clearing off the lot and assembling the material.  The foundation of the structure that we are still building was laid in the second decade.  Statistics establish the fact.  In population we increased from less than 57,000 to 150,000--163 per cent.  In the first decade our assessed property increased $9,000,000; in the second, $85,000,000.  Our imports and exports increased from $3,000,000 to $13,000,000.  Great gain came through the silver production, but greater far from the development of the permanent industries of the land--grain, fruit, lumber--and the shipping that followed it.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The city made strides in growth and beauty.  Our greatest trial was too much prosperity and the growth of luxury and extravagance.</P>
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137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>LATER SAN FRANCISCO</P>
137.sgm:<P>IN a brief chapter little can be offered that will tell the story of half a century of life of a great city.  No attempt will be made to trace its progress or to recount its achievement.  It is my purpose merely to record events and occurrences that I remember, for whatever interest they may have or whatever light they may throw on the life of the city or on my experience in it.</P>
137.sgm:<P>For many years we greatly enjoyed the exhibits and promenade concerts of the Mechanics' Institute Fairs.  The large pavilion also served a useful purpose in connection with various entertainments demanding capacity.  In 1870 there was held a very successful musical festival; twelve hundred singers participated and Camilla Urso was the violinist.  The attendance exceeded six thousand.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The Mercantile Library was in 1864 very strong and seemed destined to eternal life, but it became burdened with debt and sought to extricate itself by an outrageous expedient.  The legislature passed an act especially permitting a huge lottery, and for three days in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>A gala day of 1870 was the spectacular removal of Blossom Rock.  The early-day navigation was imperiled by a small rock northwest of Angel Island, covered at low tide by but five feet of water.  It was called Blossom, from having caused the loss of an English ship of that name.  The Government closed a bargain with Engineer Von Schmidt, who three years before had excavated from the solid rock at Hunter's Point a dry dock that had gained wide renown.  Von Schmidt guaranteed twenty-four feet of water at a cost of seventy-five thousand dollars, no payment to be made unless he succeeded.  He built a cofferdam, sunk a shaft, planted twenty-three tons of powder in the tunnels he ran, and on May 25th, after notice duly served, which sent the bulk of the population to view-commanding hills, he pushed an electric button that fired the mine, throwing water and debris one hundred and fifty feet in the air.  Blossom Rock was no more, deep water was secured, and Von Schmidt cashed his check.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>On my trip from Humboldt County to San Francisco in 1861 I made the acquaintance of Andrew S. Hallidie, an English engineer who had constructed a wire bridge over the Klamath River.  In 1872 he came to my printing office to order a prospectus announcing the formation of a small company to construct a new type of street-car, to be propelled by wire cable running in a conduit in the street and reached by a grip through a slot.  It was suggested by the suffering of horses striving to haul cars up our steep hills and it utilized methods successfully used in transporting ores from the mines.  On August 2, 1873, the first cable-car made a successful trial trip of seven blocks over Clay Street hill, from Kearny to Leavenworth.  Later it was extended four blocks to the west.  From this beginning the cable-roads spread over most of the city and around the world.  With the development of the electric trolley they were largely displaced except on steep grades, where they still perform an important function.  Mr. Hallidie was a public-spirited citizen and an influential regent of the University of California.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In 1874 there was forced upon the citizens of San Francisco the necessity of taking steps to give better care and opportunity to the neglected children of the community.  A poorly conducted reform school was encouraging crime instead of effecting reform.  On every hand was heard the question, "What shall we do <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:with our boys?"  Encouraged by the reports of what had been accomplished in New York City by Charles L. Brace, correspondence was entered into, and finally The Boys and Girls Aid Society was organized.  Difficulty was encountered in finding any one willing to act as president of the organization, but George C. Hickox, a well-known banker, was at last persuaded and became much interested in the work.  For some time it was a difficult problem to secure funds to meet the modest expenses.  A lecture by Charles Kingsley was a flat failure.  Much more successful was an entertainment at Platt's Hall at which well-known citizens took part in an old-time spelling-match.  In a small building in Clementina Street we began with neighborhood boys, who were at first wild and unruly.  Senator George C. Perkins became interested, and for more than forty years served as president.  Through him Senator Fair gave five thousand dollars and later the two valuable fifty-vara lots at Grove and Baker streets, still occupied by the Home.  We issued a little paper, <HI REND="italics">Child and State</HI>
137.sgm:, in which we appealed for a building, and a copy fell into the hands of Miss Helen McDowell, daughter of the General.  She sent it to Miss Hattie Crocker, who passed it to her father, Charles Crocker, of railroad fame.  He became interested and wrote for particulars, and when the plans were submitted he told us to go ahead and build, sending the bills to him.  These two substantial gifts made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>William C. Ralston was able, daring, and brilliant.  In 1864 he organized the Bank of California, which, through its Virginia City connection and the keenness and audacity of William Sharon, practically monopolized the big business of the Comstock, controlling mines, milling, and transportation.  In San Francisco it was <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
137.sgm: bank, and its earnings were huge.  Ralston was public-spirited and enterprising.  He backed all kinds of schemes as well as many legitimate undertakings.  He seemed the great power of the Pacific Coast.  But in 1875, when the silver output dropped and the tide that had flowed in for a dozen years turned to ebb, distrust was speedy.  On the afternoon of August 26th, as I chanced to be passing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>No glance at old San Francisco can be considered complete which does not at least recognize Emperor Norton, a picturesque figure of its life.  A heavy, elderly man, probably Jewish, who paraded the streets in a dingy uniform with conspicuous epaulets, a plumed hat, and a knobby cane.  Whether he was a pretender or imagined that he was an emperor no one knew or seemed to care.   He was good-natured, and he was humored.  Everybody bought his scrip in fifty cents denomination.  I was his favored printer, and he assured me that when he came into his estate he would make me chancellor of the exchequer.  He often attended the services of the Unitarian church, and expressed his feeling that there were too many churches and that when the empire was established he should request all to accept the Unitarian church.  He once asked me if I could select from among the ladies of our church a suitable empress.  I told him I thought I might, but that he must be ready to provide for her handsomely; that no man thought of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The most memorable of the Fourth of July celebrations was in 1876, when the hundredth anniversary called for something special.  The best to be had was prepared for the occasion.  The procession was elaborate and impressive.  Dr. Stebbis delivered a fine oration; there was a poem, of course; but the especial feature was a military and naval spectacle, elaborate in character.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The fortifications around the harbor and the ships available were scheduled to unite in an attack on a supposed enemy ship attempting to enter the harbor.  The part of the invading cruiser was taken by a large scow anchored between Sausalito and Fort Point.  At an advertised hour the bombardment was to begin, and practically the whole population of the city sought the high hills commanding the view.  The hills above the Presidio were then bare of habitations, but on that day they were black with eager spectators.  When the hour arrived the bombardment began.  The air was full of smoke and the noise was terrific, but alas for marksmanship, the willing and waiting cruiser rode serenely unharmed and unhittable.  The afternoon wore away and still no chance shot went home.  Finally a whitehall boat sneaked out and set the enemy ship on fire, that her continued security might no longer oppress us.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>On the evening of the same day, Father Neri, at St. Ignatius College, displayed electric lighting for the first time in San Francisco, using three French arc lights.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The most significant event of the second decade was the rise and decline of the Working-men's Party, following the remarkable episode of the Sand Lot and Denis Kearney.  The winter of 1876-77 had been one of slight rainfall, there had been a general failure of crops, the yield of gold and silver had been small, and there was much unemployment.  There had been riots in the East and discontent and much resentment were rife.  The line of least resistance seemed to be the clothes-line.  The Chinese, though in no wise responsible, were attacked.  Laundries were destroyed, but rioting brought speedy organization.  A committee of safety, six thousand strong, took the situation in hand.  The state and the national governments moved resolutely, and order was very soon restored.  Kearney was clever and knew when to stop.  He used his qualities of leadership for his individual advantage and eventually became sleek and prosperous.  In the meantime he was influential in forming a political movement that played a prominent part in giving us a new constitution.  The ultra conservatives were frightened, but the new instrument did not prove so harmful as was feared.  It had many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>While we now treat the episode lightly, it was at the time a serious matter.  It was Jack Cade in real life, and threatened existing society much as the Bolshevists do in Russia.  The significant feature of the experience was that there was a measure of justification for the protest.  Vast fortunes had been suddenly amassed and luxury and extravagance presented a damaging contrast to the poverty and suffering of the many.  Heartlessness and indifference are the primary danger.  The result of the revolt was on the whole good.  The warning was needed, and, on the other hand, the protestants learned that real reforms are not brought about by  violence or even the summary change of organic law.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In 1877 I had the good fortune to join the Chit-Chat Club, which had been formed three years before on very simple lines.  A few high-minded young lawyers interested in serious matters, but alive to good-fellowship, dined together once a month and discussed an essay that one of them had written.  The essayist of one meeting presided at the next.  A secretary-treasurer was the only officer.  Originally the papers alternated between literature and political economy, but as time went on all restrictions were removed, although by usage politics and religion are shunned.  The membership has always been of high character and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>In 1879 I joined many of my friends and acquaintances in a remarkable entertainment on a large scale.  It was held in the Mechanics' Pavilion and continued for many successive nights.  It was called the "Carnival of Authors."  The immense floor was divided into a series of booths, occupied by representative characters of all the noted authors, Shakespeare, Chaucer, Dickens, Irving, Scott, and many others.  A grand march every evening introduced the performances or receptions given at the various booths, and was very colorful and amusing.  My character was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:fortune-teller in the Alhambra, and my experiences were interesting and impressive.  My disguise was complete, and in my zodiacal quarters I had much fun in telling fortunes for many people I knew quite well, and I could make revelations that seemed to them very wonderful.  In the grand march I could indulge in the most unmannered swagger.  My own sister asked in indignation: "Who is that old man making eyes at me?"  I held many charming hands as I pretended to study the lines.  One evening Charles Crocker, as he strolled past, inquired if I would like any help.  I assured him that beauty were safer in the hands of age.  A young woman whom I saw weekly at church came with her cousin, a well-known banker.  I told her fortune quite to her satisfaction, and then informed her that the gentleman with her was a relative, but not a brother.  "How wonderful!" she exclaimed.  A very well-known Irish stock operator came with his daughter, whose fortune I made rosy.  She persuaded her father to sit.  Nearly every morning I had met him as he rode a neat pony along a street running to North Beach, where he took a swim.  I told him that the lines of his hand indicated water, that he had been born across the water.  "Yes," he murmured, "in France."  I told him he had been successful.  "Moderately so," he admitted.  I said, "Some people think it has been merely good luck, but you have contributed to good fortune.  You are a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Some experiences were not so humorous.  A very hard-handed, poorly dressed but patently upright man took it very seriously.  I told him he had had a pretty hard life, but that no man could look him in the face and say that he had been wronged by him.  He said that was so, but he wanted to ask my advice as to what to do when persecuted because he could not do more than was possible to pay an old debt for which he was not to blame.  I comforted him all I could, and told him he should not allow himself to be imposed upon.  When he left he asked for my address down town.  He wanted to see me again.  The depth of suffering and the credulity revealed were often embarrassing and made me feel a fraud when I was aiming merely to amuse.  I was glad again to become my undisguised self.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It was in the late eighties that Julia Ward Howe visited her sister near the city, and I very gladly was of service in helping her fill some of her engagements.  She gave much pleasure by lectures and talks and enjoyed visiting some of our attractions.  She was charmed with the Broadway Grammar School, where Jean Parker had achieved such wonderful results with the foreign girls of the North Beach locality.  I remember meeting a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Mozoomdar, the saintly representative of the Brahmo Somaj, was a highly attractive man.  His voice was most musical, and his bearing and manner were beautiful.  He seemed pure spirit and a type of the deeply religious nature.  Nor was he without humor.  In speaking of his visit to England he said that his hosts generally seemed to think that for food he required only "an unlimited quantity of milk."</P>
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137.sgm:<P>Politics has had a wide range in San Francisco, --rotten at times, petty at others, with the saving grace of occasional idealism.  The consolidation act and the People's Party touched high-water mark in reform.  With the lopping off of the San Mateo end of the peninsula in 1856, one board of supervisors was substituted for the three that had spent $2,646,000 the year before.  With E. W. Burr at its head, under the new board expenditures were reduced to $353,000.  The People's Party had a long lease of power, but in 1876 McCoppin was elected mayor.  Later came the reigns of little bosses, the specter of the big corporation boss behind them all, and then the triumph of decency under McNab, when good men served as supervisors.  Then came the sinister triumph of Ruef and the days of graft, cut short by the amazing exposure, detection, and overthrow of entrenched wickedness, and the administration of Dr. Taylor, a high idealist, too good to last.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Early in 1904 twenty-five gentlemen (five of whom were members of the Chit-Chat Club) formed an association for the improvement and adornment of San Francisco.  D. H. Burnham was invited to prepare a plan, and a bungalow was erected on a spur of Twin Peaks from which to study the problem.  A year or more was given to the task, and in September, 1905, a comprehensive report was made and officially sanctioned, by vote and publication.  To what extent it might have been followed but for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The earthquake and fire of April, 1906, many San Franciscans would gladly forget; but as they faced the fact, so they need not shrink from the memory.  It was a never to be effaced experience of man's littleness and helplessness, leaving a changed consciousness and a new attitude.  Being aroused from deep sleep to find the solid earth wrenched and shaken beneath you, structures displaced, chimneys shorn from their bases, water shut off, railway tracks distorted, and new shocks recurring, induces terror that no imagination can compass.  After breakfasting on an egg cooked by the heat from an alcohol lamp, I went to rescue the little I could from my office, and saw the resistless approaching fire shortly consume it.  Lack of provisions and scarcity of water drove me the next morning across the bay.  Two days afterward, leaving my motherless children, I returned to bear a hand in relief and restoration.  Every person going up Market Street stopped to throw a few bricks from the street <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Among our interesting experiences at Red Cross headquarters was the initiation of Dr. Devine into the habits of the earthquake.  He had come from New York to our assistance.  We were in session and J. S. Merrill was speaking.  There came a decidedly sharp shake.  An incipient "Oh!" from one of the ladies was smothered.  Mr. Merrill kept steadily on.  When he had concluded and the shock was over he turned to Dr. Devine and remarked: "Doctor, you look a little pale.  I thought a moment ago you were thinking of going out." Dr. Devine wanly smiled as he replied: "You must excuse me.  Remember that this is my first experience."</P>
137.sgm:<P>I think I never saw a little thing give so much pleasure as when a man who had been given an old coat that was sent from Mendocino County found in a pocket a quarter of a dollar that some sympathetic philanthropist had slipped in as a surprise.  It seemed a fortune to one who had nothing.  Perhaps a penniless mother who came in with her little girl was equally pleased when she found that some kind woman had sent in a doll that her girl <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:could have.  One of our best citizens, Frederick Dohrmann, was in Germany, his native land, at the time.  He had taken his wife in pursuit of rest and health.  They had received kindly entertainment from many friends, and decided to make some return by a California reception at the town hostelry.  They ordered a generous dinner.  They thought of the usual wealth of flowers at a California party, and visiting a florist's display they bought his entire stock.  The invited guests came in large numbers, and the host and hostess made every effort to emphasize their hospitality.  But after they had gone Mr. Dohrmann remarked to his wife: "I somehow feel that the party has not been a success.  The people did not seem to enjoy themselves as I thought they would."  The next morning as they sought the breakfast-room they were asked if they had seen the morning papers.  Ordering them they found staring head-lines: "San Francisco destroyed by an earthquake!"  Their guests had seen the billboards on their way to the party, but could not utterly spoil the evening by mentioning it, yet were incapable of merriment.  Mr. Dohrmann and his wife returned at once, and though far from well, he threw himself into the work of restoration, in which no one was more helpful.  The dreadful event, however, revealed much good in human nature.  Helpfulness in the presence of such devastation and suffering might be expected, but honor and integrity after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">To Our Friends and Patrons</HI>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">a</HI>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">b</HI>
137.sgm:<P>SIMPLY A QUESTION OF HONOR.</P>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">First</HI>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Second</HI>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Third</HI>
137.sgm:<P>PLEASE FILL OUT AND SEND US AS SOON AS POSSIBLE THE FORMS ENCLOSED.</P>
137.sgm:<P>May 15, 1906.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Returns of money and of acknowledgment were prompt and encouraging.  Some of those considered doubtful were the first to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Four years later they were surprised by the receipt of a check for $250 from a lawyer in Florida for a bill incurred long before, of which they had no memory.  Let those who scoff at ideals and bemoan the dishonesty of this materialistic age take note that money is not all, and let those who grudgingly admit that there are a few honest men but no honest lawyers take notice that even lawyers have some sense of honor.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Some few instances of escape are interesting.  I have a friend who was living on the Taylor Street side of Russian Hill.  When the quake came, his daughter, who had lived in Japan and learned wise measures, immediately filled the bathtub with water.  A doomed grocery-store near by asked customers to help themselves to goods.  My friend chose a dozen large siphon bottles of soda water.  The house was detached and for a time escaped, but finally the roof caught from flying embers and the fire was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>While many individuals never recovered their property conditions or their nerve, it is certain that a new spirit was generated.  Great obstacles were overcome and determination was invincible.  We were forced to act broadly, and we reversed the negative policy of doing nothing and owing nothing.  We went into debt with our eyes open, and spent millions in money for the public good.  The city was made safe and also beautiful.  The City Hall, the Public Library, and the Auditorium make our Civic Center a source of pride.  The really great exposition of 1915 was carried out in a way to increase our courage and our capacity.  We have developed a fine public spirit and efficient co-operation.  We need fear nothing in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Vocation and avocation have about equally divided my time and energy during my residence in San Francisco.  I have done some things because I was obliged to and many others because I wished to.  When one is fitted and trained for some one thing he is apt to devote himself steadily and profitably to it, but when he is an amateur and not a master he is sure to be handicapped.  After about a year in the Indian department a change in administration left me without a job.  For about a year I was a bookkeeper for a stock-broker.  Then for another year I was a money-broker, selling currency, silver, and revenue stamps.  When that petered out I was ready for anything.  A friend had loaned money to a printer and seemed about to lose it.  In 1867 I became bookkeeper and assistant in this printing office to rescue the loan, and finally succeeded.  I liked the business and had the hardihood to buy a small interest, borrowing the necessary money from a bank at one per cent a month.  I knew absolutely nothing of the art and little of business.  It meant years of wrestling for the weekly pay-roll, often in apprehension of the sheriff, but for better or for worse I stuck to it and gradually established a good business.  I found satisfaction in production and had many pleasant experiences.  In illustration I reproduce an order I received in 1884 from Fred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO</P>
137.sgm:<P>FREE PUBLIC LIBRARY</P>
137.sgm:<P><illus entity="a137-0006" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
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137.sgm:<P><illus entity="a137-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CLAY STREET OFFICE THE DAY AFTER</P>
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137.sgm:<P>In 1892, as president of the San Francisco Typothetae, I had the great pleasure of co-operating with the president of the Typographical Union in giving a reception and dinner to George W. Childs, of Philadelphia.  Our relations were not always so friendly.  We once resisted arbitrary methods and a strike followed.  My men went out regretfully, shaking hands as they left.  We won the strike, and then by gradual voluntary action gave them the pay and hours they asked for.  When the earthquake fire of 1906 came I was unfortunately situated.  I had lately bought out my partner and owed much money.  To meet all my obligations I felt obliged to sell a controlling interest in the business, and that was the beginning of the end.  I was in active connection with the printing business for forty-seven years.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I am forced to admit that it would have been much to my advantage had I learned in my early life to say "No" at the proper time.  The loss in scattering one's powers is too great to contemplate with comfort.  I had a witty partner who once remarked, "I have great respect for James Bunnell, for he has but one hobby at a time."  I knew the inference.  A man who has too many hobbies is not respectable.  He is not even fair to the hobbies.  I have always been overloaded and so not efficient.  It is also my habit to hold on.  It seems almost impossible to drop what I have taken up, and while there is gain in some ways through standing by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>When I was relieved from further public service, and had disposed of the printing business, it was a great satisfaction to accept the field secretaryship of the American Unitarian Association for the Pacific Coast.  I enjoyed the travel and made many delightful acquaintances.  It was an especial pleasure to accompany such a missionary as Dr. William L. Sullivan.  In 1916 we visited most of the churches on the coast, and it was a constant pleasure to hear him and to see the gladness with which he was always received, and the fine spirit he inspired.  I have also found congenial occupation in keeping alive <HI REND="italics">The Pacific Unitarian</HI>
137.sgm:.  Thirty years is almost venerable in the life of a religious journal.  I have been favored with excellent health and with unnumbered blessings of many kinds.  I rejoice at the goodness and kindness of my fellow men.  My experience <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>I am thankful that my lot has been cast in this fair city.  I love it and I have faith in its future.  There have been times of trial and of fear, but time has told in favor of courage not to be lost and deep confidence in final good.  It cannot be doubted that the splendid achievement of the Panama-Pacific Exposition gave strong faith in power to withstand adverse influences and temporary weakness.  When we can look back upon great things we have accomplished we gain confidence in ability to reach any end that we are determined upon.  It is manifest that a new spirit, an access of faith, has come to San Francisco since she astonished the world and surprised herself by creating the magnificent dream on the shores of the bay.</P>
137.sgm:<P>At its conclusion a few of us determined it should not be utterly lost.  We formed an Exposition Preservation League through which we salvaged the Palace of Fine Arts, the most beautiful building of the last five centuries, the incomparable Marina, a connected driveway from Black Point to the Presidio, the Lagoon, and other features that will ultimately revert to the city, greatly adding to its attractiveness.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Fifty years of municipal life have seen great advance and promise a rich future.  Materially they have been as prosperous as well-being demands or as is humanly safe--years of healthy growth, free of fever and delirium, in which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Bank clearances are considered the best test of business.  Our clearing house was established in 1876, and the first year the total clearances were $520,000.  We passed the million mark in 1900, and in 1920 they reached $8,122,000,000.  In 1870 our combined exports and imports were about $13,000,000.  In 1920 they were $486,000,000, giving California fourth rank in the national record.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The remarkable feature in all our records is the great acceleration in the increase in the years since the disaster of 1906.  Savings bank receipts in 1920 are twice as large as in 1906, postal receipts three times as large, national bank resources four times as large, national bank deposits nine times as large.</P>
137.sgm:<P>There can be no reasonable doubt that San Francisco is to be a very important industrial and commercial city.  Every indication leads to this conclusion.  The more important consideration of character and spirit cannot be forecast by statistics, but much that has been accomplished and the changed attitude on social welfare and the humanities leave no doubt on the part of the discerning that we have made great strides and that the future is full of promise.</P>
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137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>INCIDENTS IN PUBLIC SERVICE</P>
137.sgm:<P>AT twenty-two I found myself Register of the Humboldt Land Office, with offices on the first floor of a building at Eureka, the second story of which was occupied by a school.  An open veranda extended across the front.  When I first let myself into the office, I carelessly left the key in the lock.  A mischievous girl simply gave it a turn and I was a prisoner, with a plain but painful way of escape--not physically painful, but humiliating to my official pride.  There was nothing for it but ignominiously to crawl out of the window onto the veranda and recover the key--and that I forthwith did.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The archives of the office proved interesting.  The original Register was a Missouri Congressman, who had been instructed to proceed to Humboldt City and open the office.  Humboldt City was on the map and seemed the logical location.  But it had "died aborning" and as a city did not exist.  So the Register took the responsibility of locating the office at Eureka, and in explanation addressed to the President, whom he denominated "Buckhannan," a letter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>I was authorized to receive homestead applications, to locate land warrants, to hear contests, and to sell "offered land."  The latter was government land that had been offered for sale at $1.25 an acre and had not been taken.  Strangely enough, it embraced a portion of the redwood belt along Mad River, near Arcata.</P>
137.sgm:<P>But one man seemed aware of the opportunity.  John Preston, a tanner of Arcata, would accumulate thirty dollars in gold and with it buy fifty dollars in legal-tender notes.  Then he would call and ask for the plat, and, after considerable pawing, he would say, "Well, Charlie, I guess I'll take that forty."  Whereupon the transaction would be completed by my taking his greenbacks and giving him a certificate of purchase for the forty acres of timber-land that had cost him seventy-five cents an acre, and later probably netted him not less than three hundred dollars an acre for stumpage alone.  Today it would be worth twice that.  The opportunity was open to all who had a few cents and a little sense.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Sales of land were few and locations infrequent, consequently commissions were inconsiderable.  Now and then I would hold a trial between conflicting claimants, some of them quite important.  It was natural that the respective attorneys should take advantage of my youth and inexperience, for they had known <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>One occurrence made a strong impression on me.  It was war-time, and loyalty was an issue.  A rancher from Mendocino County came to Eureka to prove up on his land and get a patent.  He seemed to me a fine man, but when he was asked to take the oath of allegiance he balked.  I tried my best to persuade him that it was harmless and reasonable, but he simply wouldn't take it, and went back home without his patent.</P>
137.sgm:<P>My experiences while chief clerk in the office of the Superintendent of Indian Affairs are too valuable to be overlooked.  I traveled quite freely and saw unfamiliar life.  I had a very interesting trip in 1865, to inspect the Round Valley Indian Reservation and to distribute clothing to the Indians.  It was before the days of railroads in that part of California.  Two of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The equal division of clothing or supplies among a lot of Indians throws helpful light on the causes of inequality.  A very few days suffice to upset all efforts at impartiality.  A few, the best gamblers, soon have more than they need, while the many have little or nothing.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The valleys of Mendocino County are fascinatingly beautiful, and a trip direct to the coast, with a spin along ten miles of perfectbeach as we returned, was a fine contrast to hungry climbing over rugged heights.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>Another memorable trip was with two Indians from the mouth of the Klamath River to its junction with the Trinity at Weitchpec.  The whole course of the stream is between lofty peaks and is a continuous series of sharp turns.  After threading its winding way, it is easy to understand what an almost solid resistance would be presented to a rapidly rising river.  With such a watershed as is drained by the two rivers, the run-off in a storm would be so impeded as to be very slow.  The actual result was demonstrated in 1861.  In August of that year, A. S. Hallidie built a wire bridge at Weitchpec.  He made the closest possible examination as to the highest point the river had reached.  In an Indian rancheria he found a stone door-sill that had been hollowed by constant use for ages.  This was then ninety-eight feet above the level of the flowing river.  He accepted it as absolutely safe.  In December, 1861, the river rose thirty feet above the bridge and carried away the structure.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The Indians living on lower Mad River had been removed for safety to the Smith River Indian Reservation.  They were not happy and felt they might safely return, now that the Indian war was over.  The white men who were friendly believed that if one of the trusted Indians could be brought down to talk with his friends he could satisfy the others that it would be better to remain on the reservation.  It was my job to go up and bring him down.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In 1851 "Gold Bluff" was the first great mining excitement.  The Klamath River enters the ocean just above the bluff that had been made by the deposit of sand, gravel, and boulders to the height of a hundred feet or more.  The waves, beating against the bluff for ages, have doubtless washed gold into the ocean's bed.  In 1851 it was discovered that at certain tides or seasons there were deposited on the beach quantities of black sand, mingled with which were particles of gold.  Nineteen men formed a company to take up a claim and work the supposedly exhaustless deposit.  An expert report declared that the sand measured would yield each of the men the modest sum of $43,000,000.  Great excitement stirred San Francisco and eight vessels left with adventurers.  But it soon was found that black sand was scarce and gold much more so.  For some time it paid something, but as a lure it soon failed.</P>
137.sgm:<P>When I was first there I was tremendously impressed when shown at the level of the beach, beneath the bluff and its growing trees, an imbedded redwood log.  It started the imagination on conjectures of when and where it had been clad in beauty as part of a living landscape.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>An interesting conclusion to this experience was traveling over the state with Charles Maltby, appointed to succeed my friend, to turn over the property of the department.  He was a personal friend of President Lincoln, and he bore a striking resemblance to him and seemed like him in character.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In 1883 a nominee for the Assembly from San Francisco declined the honor, and it devolved on a group of delegates to select a candidate in his place.  They asked me to run, and on the condition that I should solicit no votes and spend no money I consented.  I was one of four Republicans elected from San Francisco.  In the entire state we were out-numbered about four to one.  But politics ordinarily cuts little figure.  The only measure I introduced provided for the probationary treatment of juvenile delinquents through commitment to an unsectarian organization that would seek to provide homes.  I found no opposition in committee or on the floor.  When it was reached I would not endanger its passage by saying anything for it.  It passed unanimously and was concurred in by the Senate.  My general conclusion is that the average legislator is ready to support a measure that he feels is meritorious and has no other motive than the general good.</P>
137.sgm:<P>We were summoned in extra session to act on matters affecting the railroads.  It was at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>It was pathetic at times to watch proceedings.  I recall one instance, where a young associate from San Francisco had cast a vote that was discreditable and pretty plainly indicated corrupt influence.  The measure he supported won a passage, but a motion for reconsideration carried, and when it came up the following day the father of the young man was seated by his side as the vote was taken.  He was a much-respected plasterer, and he came from his home on a hurried call to save his son from disgrace.  It was a great relief when on recall the son reversed his vote and the measure was lost.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Of course, there were punitive measures, unreasonable and unjust, and some men were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>I was impressed with the power of the Speaker to favor or thwart legislation.  At the regular session some Senator had introduced a bill favoring the needs of the University of California.  He wanted it concurred in by the Assembly, and as the leading Democrats were pretty busy with their own affairs he entrusted it to me.  The Speaker favored it, and he did not favor a bill in the hands of a leader of the house involving an appropriation.  He called me to his seat and suggested that at the reassembling of the Assembly after luncheon I should take the floor to move that the bill he placed on the first-reading file.  He knew that the leader would be ready with his pet bill, but he would recognize me.  When the gavel fell after luncheon three men leaped for the floor.  I arose well at the side of the chamber, while the leader stood directly in front, but the Speaker happened (?) to see me first, and the entrusted bill started for speedy success.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>It is always pleasant to discover unsuspected humor.  There was a very serious-appearing country member who, with the others of a committee, visited the State Prison at San Quentin.  We were there at the midday meal and saw the prisoners file in to a substantially laden table.  He watched them enjoy the spread, and quietly remarked, "A man who wouldn't be satisfied with such food as that deserves to be turned out of the State Prison."</P>
137.sgm:<P>Some reformer had introduced a bill providing for a complete new code of criminal procedure.  It had been referred to the appropriate committee and in due time it made its report.  I still can see the committee chairman, a country doctor, as he stood and shook a long finger at the members before him, saying: "Mr. Speaker, we ask that this measure be read in full to the Assembly.  I want you to know that I have been obliged to hear it, and I am bound that every member of the house shall hear it."</P>
137.sgm:<P>My conclusion at the end of the session was that the people of the state were fortunate in faring no worse.  The many had little fitness; a few had large responsibility.  Doubtful and useless measures predominate, but they are mostly quietly smothered.  The country members are watchful and discriminating and a few leaders exercise great power.  To me it was a fine experience, and I made good friends.  I was interested in proposed measures, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>I went back to my printing business, which never should have been neglected, and stayed mildly by it for eleven years.  Then, there being a vacancy on the Board of Education, I responded to the wish of friends and accepted the appointment to help them in their endeavor to better our schools.</P>
137.sgm:<P>John Swett, and experienced educator, was superintendent.  The majority of the board was composed of high-minded and able men.  They had turned over the selection of teachers to the best-fitted professors of the university and were giving an economical and creditable administration.  If a principalship was vacant, applications were apt to be disregarded, and the person in the department considered most capable and deserving was notified of election.  There were, however, some loose methods.  All graduates of the high schools were privileged to attend a normal class for a year and then were eligible without any examination to be appointed teachers.  The board was not popular with the teachers, many of whom seemed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>When the first elected board held a preliminary canvass I naturally felt much interest as to my associates, some of whom were entire strangers.  Among them was Henry T. Scott, of the firm of shipbuilders who had built the "Oregon."  Some one remarked that a prominent politician (naming him) would like to know what patronage would be accorded him.  Mr. Scott very forcibly and promptly replied: "So far as I am concerned, not a damned bit.  I want none for myself, and I will oppose giving any to him or anyone else."  I learned later that he had been elected without being consulted, while absent in the East.  Upon his return a somewhat notorious woman principal called on him and informed him that she was responsible for his election--at least, his name had been submitted to her and received her approval.  He replied that he felt she deserved no thanks for that, as he had no desire to serve.  She said she had but one request to make; her janitress must not be removed.  He gave her no assurances.  Soon afterward the matter of appointments came up.  Mr. Scott was asked what he wanted, and he replied: "I want but one thing.  It involves the janitress of Mrs.--'s school.  I want her to be removed immediately."</P>
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137.sgm:<P>"All right," replied the questioner.  "Whom shall we name?"</P>
137.sgm:<P>"Whomever you please," rejoined Scott.  "I have no candidate; but no one can tell me what I must or must not do."</P>
137.sgm:<P>Substitution followed at once.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Later Mr. Scott played the star part in the most interesting political struggle I ever knew.  A Democratic victory placed in the superintendent's office a man whose Christian name was appropriately Andrew Jackson.  He had the naming of his secretary, who was ex-officio clerk of the board, which confirmed the appointment.  One George Beanston had grown to manhood in the office and filled it most satisfactorily.  The superintendent nominated a man with no experience, whom I shall call Wells, for the reason that it was not his name.  Mr. Scott, a Democratic member, and I were asked to report on the nomination.  The superintendent and the committee discussed the matter at a pleasant dinner at the Pacific-Union Club, given by Chairman Scott.  At its conclusion the majority conceded that usage and courtesy entitled the superintendent to the appointment.  Feeling that civil service and the interest of the school department were opposed to removal from position for mere political differences, I demurred and brought in a minority report.  There were twelve members, and when the vote to concur in the appointment came up there was a tie, and the matter went over for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Early in 1901 I was called up on the telephone and asked to come to Mayor Phelan's office at once.  I found there some of the most ardent civil service supporters in the city.  Richard J. Freud, a member of the Civil Service Commission, had suddenly died the night before.  The vacancy was filled by the mayor's appointment.  Eugene Schmitz had been elected mayor and would take his seat the following day, and the friends of civil service distrusted his integrity.  They did not dare to allow him to act.  Haste seemed discourteous to the memory of Freud, but he would want the best for the service.  Persuaded of the gravity of the matter, I accepted the appointment for a year and filed my commission before returning to my place of business.  I enjoyed the work and its obvious advantage to the departments under its operation.  The Police Department especially was given an intelligent and well-equipped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>I chanced to visit Washington during my term as commissioner, and through the courtesy of Senator Perkins had a pleasant call on President Roosevelt.  A Senator seems to have ready access to the ordinary President, and almost before I realized it we were in the strenuous presence.  A cordial hand-clasp and a genial smile followed my introduction, and as the Senator remarked that I was a Civil Service Commissioner, the President called: "Shake again.  I used to be one of those fellows myself."</P>
137.sgm:<P>Senator Perkins went on: "Mr. Murdock and I have served for many years as fellow trustees of the Boys and Girls Aid Society."</P>
137.sgm:<P>"Ah," said the President, "modeled, I presume, on Brace's society, in which my father was greatly interested.  Do you know I believe work with boys is about the only hope?  It's pretty hard to change a man, but when you can start a boy in the right way he has a chance."  Turning to me he remarked, "Did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>"Very well, I understand," replied the Senator.  "I believe he is a thoroughly honest man."</P>
137.sgm:<P>"Yes; but is he also able?  It is as necessary for a man in public life to be able as to be honest."</P>
137.sgm:<P>He bade us a hearty good-by as we left him.  He impressed me as untroubled and courageous, ready every day for what came, and meeting life with cheer.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The story of the moral and political revolution of 1907 has never been adequately told, nor have the significance and importance of the event been fully recognized.  The facts are of greater import than the record; but an eyewitness has responsibility, and I feel moved to give my testimony.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Perhaps so complete a reversal of spirit and administration was never before reached without an election by the people.  The faithfulness and nerve of one official backed by the ability of a detective employed by a public-spirited citizen rescued the city government from the control of corrupt and irresponsible men and substituted a mayor and board of supervisors of high character and unselfish purpose.  This was accomplished speedily and quietly.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>With positive proof of bribery that left conviction and a term in prison as the alternative to resignation, District Attorney William H. Langdon had complete control of the situation.  In consultation with those who had proved their interest in the welfare of the city, he asked Edward Robeson Taylor to serve as mayor, privileged to select sixteen citizens to act as supervisors in place of the implicated incumbents, who would be induced to resign.  Dr. Taylor was an attorney of the highest standing, an idealist of fearless and determined character.  No pledges hampered him.  He was free to act in redeeming the city.  In turn, he asked no pledge or promise of those whom he selected to serve as supervisors.  He named men whom he felt he could trust, and he subsequently left them alone, asking nothing of them and giving them no advice.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It was the year after the fire.  I was conducting a substitute printing-office in the old car-barn at Geary and Buchanan streets.  One morning Dr. Taylor came in and asked if he might speak to me in private.  I was not supplied with facilities for much privacy, but I asked him in and we found seats in the corner of the office farthest from the bookkeeper.  Without preliminary, he said, "I want you to act as one of the supervisors."  Wholly surprised, I hesitated a moment and then assured him that my respect for him and what he had undertaken was so great that if he was sure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In response to the call I found fifteen other men, most of whom I knew slightly.  We seemed to be waiting for something.  Mr. Langdon was there and Mr. Burns, the detective, was in and out.  Mr. Gallagher, late acting mayor and an old-time friend of the District Attorney, was helping in the transfer, in which he was included.  Langdon would suggest some procedure: "How will this do, Jim?"  "It seems to me, Billy, that this will be better," Gallagher would reply.  Burns finally reported that the last of the "bunch" had signed his resignation and that we could go ahead.  We filed into the boardroom.  Mayor Taylor occupied the chair, to which the week before he had been obediently but not enthusiastically elected by "those about to die."  The supervisor alphabetically ranking offered his written resignation, which the mayor promptly accepted.  He then appointed as successor the first, alphabetically, on his list.  The deputy county clerk was conveniently near and promptly administered the oath and certified the commission.  The old member slunk or swaggered out and the new member took his place.  So the dramatic scene continued until the transformation was accomplished and a new era dawned.  The atmosphere was changed, but was very serious and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Many of the men selected by Dr. Taylor had enjoyed experience and all were anxious to do their best.  With firm grasp and resolute procedure, quick results followed.  There was to be an election in November.  Some of the strongest members had accepted service as an emergency call and could not serve longer; but an incredible amount of planning was accomplished and a great deal disposed of, so that though ten of the appointed board served but six months they had rendered a great service and fortunately were succeeded by other men of character, and the good work went steadily on.  In looking back to the problems that confronted the appointed board and the first elected board, also headed by Dr. Taylor, they seem insurmountable.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It is hard now to appreciate the physical conditions of the city.  It was estimated that not less than five million dollars would be required to put the streets into any decent condition.  It was at first proposed to include this sum in the bond issue that could not be escaped, but reflection assured us that so temporary a purpose was not a proper use of bond money, and we met the expenditure from the annual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>I cannot follow the various steps by which order was brought out of chaos, nor can I give special acknowledgment where it is manifestly due; but I can bear testimony to the unselfishness and faithfulness of a remarkable body of public officials and to a few of the things accomplished.  To correct gross evils and restore good conditions is no slight task; but to substitute the best for the worst is a great achievement.  This San Francisco has done in several marked instances.</P>
137.sgm:<P>There was a time when about the only thing we could boast was that we spent a <HI REND="italics">less</HI>
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137.sgm:<P>Our City Prison is equally reversed.  It was our shame; it is our pride.  The old Almshouse was a discreditable asylum for the politician who chanced to superintend it.  Today our "Relief Home" is a model for the country.  In 1906 the city was destroyed because unprotected against fire.  Today we are as safe as a city can be.  In the meantime the reduced cost of insurance pays insured citizens a high rate of interest on the cost of our high-pressure auxiliary fire system.  Our streets were once noted for their poor construction and their filthy condition.  Recently an informed visitor has pronounced them the best to be found.  We had no creditable boulevards or drives.  Quietly and without bond expenditure we have constructed magnificent examples.  Our school buildings were shabby and poor.  Many now are imposing and beautiful.</P>
137.sgm:<P>This list could be extended; but turn for a moment to matters of manners.  Where are the awful corner-groceries that helped the saloons to ruin men and boys, and where are the busy nickel-in-the-slot machines and shameless smokers in the street-cars?  Where are the sellers of lottery tickets, where the horse-races and the open gambling?</P>
137.sgm:<P>It was my fortune to be re-elected for eight years.  Sometimes I am impressed by how little I seem to have individually accomplished in this long period of time.  One effect of experience is to modify one's expectations.  It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>I was led to undertake the correction of grave abuses and confusion in the naming of the city streets.  The post-office authorities were greatly hampered in the mail delivery by the duplicate use of names.  The dignified word "avenue" had been conferred on many alleys.  A commission worked diligently and efficiently.  One set of numbered streets was eliminated.  The names of men who had figured in the history of the city were given to streets bearing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>There were occasional humorous incidents connected with this task.  There were opposition and prejudice against names offered.  Some one proposed a "St. Francis Boulevard."  An apparently intelligent man asked why we wanted to perpetuate the name of "that old pirate."  I asked, "Who do you think we have in mind?"  He replied, "I suppose you would honor Sir Francis Drake."  He seemed never to have heard of Saint Francis of Assisi.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It was predicted that the Taylor administration with its excellent record would be continued, but at the end of two years it went down to defeat and the Workingmen's party, with P. H. McCarthy as mayor, gained strong control.  For two years, as a minority member, I enjoyed a different but interesting experience.  It involved some fighting and preventive effort; but I found that if one fought fairly he was accorded consideration and opportunity.  I introduced a charter amendment that seemed very desirable, and it found favor.  The charter prescribed a two-year term for eighteen supervisors and their election each alternate year.  Under the provision it was possible to have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>I served for four years under the energetic Rolph, and they were fruitful ones.  Most of the plans inaugurated by the Taylor board were carried out, and materially the city made great strides.  The Exposition was a revelation of what was possible, and of the City Hall and the Civic Center we may well be proud.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Some of my supervisorial experiences were trying and some were amusing.  Discussion was often relieved by rare bits of eloquence and surprising use of language.  Pronunciation was frequently original and unprecedented.  Amazing ignorance was unconcealed and the gift of gab was unrestrained.  Nothing quite equaled in fatal facility a progress report made by a former member soon after his debut: "We think we shall soon be able to bring chaos out of the present disorder, now existing."  On one of our trips of investigation the City <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>A pleasant episode of official duty early in Rolph's term was an assignment to represent the city at a national municipal congress at Los Angeles.  We were called upon, in connection with a study of municipal art, to make an exhibit of objects of beauty or ornament presented to the city by its citizens.  We felt that San Francisco had been kindly dealt with, but were surprised at the extent and variety of the gifts.  Enlarged sepia photographs of structures, monuments, bronzes, statuary, and memorials of all kinds were gathered and framed uniformly.  There were very many, and they reflected great credit and taste.  Properly inscribed, they filled a large room in Los Angeles and attracted much attention.  Interest was enhanced by the cleverness of the young woman in charge.  The general title of the collection was "Objects of Art Presented by its Citizens to the City of San Francisco."  She left a space and over a conspicuous panel printed the inscription "Objects of Art Presented by its Citizens to the City of Los Angeles."  The panel was empty.  The ordinarily proud city had nothing to show.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Moses at Pisgah gazed upon the land he was not to enter.  My Pisgah was reached at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>As I look back upon varied public service, I am not clear as to its value; but I do not regret having tried to do my part.  My practical creed was never to seek and never to decline opportunity to serve.  I feel that the effort to do what I was able to do hardly justified itself; but it always seemed worth trying, and I do not hold myself responsible for results.  I am told that in parts of California infinitesimal diatoms from deposits five thousand feet in thickness.  If we have but little to give we cannot afford not to give it.</P>
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137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>AN INVESTMENT</P>
137.sgm:<P>ON the morning of October 18, 1850, there appeared in San Francisco's morning paper the following notice:</P>
137.sgm:<P>RELIGIOUS INTELLIGENCE</P>
137.sgm:<P>THERE will be Religious Services (Unitarian) on</P>
137.sgm:<P>Sunday Morning next, October 20th, at Simmons'</P>
137.sgm:<P>Athen&aelig;um Hall.  Entrance on Commercial and Sacramento Streets.</P>
137.sgm:<P>A Discourse will be preached by</P>
137.sgm:<P>Rev. Charles A. Farley.</P>
137.sgm:<P>San Francisco at this time was a community very unlike any know to history.  Two years before it is said to have numbered eight hundred souls, and two years before that about two hundred.  During the year 1849, perhaps thirty thousand men had come from all over the world, of whom many went to the mines.  The directory of that year contained twenty-five hundred names.  By October, 1850, the population may have been twenty thousand.  They were scattered thinly over a hilly and rough peninsula, chaparral-covered but for drifting sand and with few habitable valleys.  From Pacific to California streets and from Dupont to the bay was the beginning of the city's business.  A few streets were graded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Among the motley argonauts were a goodly number of New Englanders, especially from Boston and Maine.  Naturally some of them were Unitarians.  It seems striking that so many of them were interested in holding serices.  They had all left "home" within a year or so, and most of them expected to go back within two years with their respective fortunes.  When it was learned that a real Unitarian minister was among them, they arranged for a service.  The halls of the period were west of Kearny Street in Sacramento and California.  They secured the Athen&aelig;um and gave notice in the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
137.sgm:<P>It is significant that the day the notice appeared proved to be historical.  The steamer "Oregon" was due, and it was hoped she would bring the news of favorable action by Congress on the application of California to be admitted into the Union.  When in the early forenoon the steamer, profusely decorated with bunting, rounded Clark's Point assurance was given, and by the time she landed at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<illus entity="a137-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THOMAS STARR KING.  SAN FRANCISCO, 1860-1864</P>
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137.sgm:<P>The Pilgrim Yankees must have felt like going to church now that California was a part of the Union and that another free state had been born.  At any rate, the service conducted by Rev. Charles A. Farley was voted a great success.  One man had brought a service-book and another a hymnbook.  Four of the audience volunteered to lead the singing, while another played an accompaniment on the violin.  After the services twenty-five men remained to talk things over, and arranged to continue services from week to week.  On November 17, 1850, "The First Unitarian Church of San Francisco" was organized, Captain Frederick W. Macondray being made the first Moderator.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Mr. Farley returned to New England in April, 1851, and services were suspended.  Then occurred two very serious fires, disorganizing conditions and compelling postponement.  It was more than a year before an attempt was made to call another minister.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In May, 1852, Rev. Joseph Harrington was invited to take charge of the church.  He came in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Mr. Gray, a kind and gentle soul, rendered good service in organizing the activities of the church.  He was succeeded by Rev. Rufus P. Cutler, of Portland, Maine, a refined, scholarly man, who served for nearly five years.  He resigned and sailed for New York in June, 1859.  During his term the Sunday-school prospered under the charge of Samuel L. Lloyd.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Rev. J. A. Buckingham filled the pulpit for ten months preceding April 28, 1860, when Thomas Starr King arrived.  The next day Mr. King faced a congregation that crowded the church to overflowing and won the warm and enthusiastic regard of all, including many new adherents.  With a winning personality, eloquent and brilliant, he was extraordinarily attractive as a preacher and as a man.  He had great gifts and he was profoundly in earnest--a kindly, friendly, loving soul.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>In 1861 I planned to pass through the city on Sunday with the possibility of hearing him.  The church was crowded.  I missed no word of his wonderful voice.  He looked almost boyish, but his eyes and his bearing proclaimed him a man, and his word was thrilling.  I heard him twice and went to my distant home with a blessed memory and an enlarged ideal of the power of a preacher.  Few who heard him still survive, but a woman of ninety-three years who loves him well vividly recalls his second service that led to a friendship that lasted all his life.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In his first year he accomplished wonders for the church.  He had felt on coming that in a year he should return to his devoted people in the Hollis Street Church of Boston.  But when Fort Sumter was fired upon he saw clearly his appointed place.  He threw himself into the struggle to hold California in the Union.  He lectured and preached everywhere, stimulating patriotism and loyalty.  He became a great national leader and the most influential person on the Pacific Coast.  He turned California from a doubtful state to one of solid loyalty.  Secession defeated, he accomplished wonders for the Sanitary Commission.</P>
137.sgm:<P>A large part of 1863 he gave to the building of the beautiful church in Geary street near Stockton.  It was dedicated in January, 1864.  He preached in it but seven Sundays, when he was attacked with a malady which in these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>To Dr. Henry W. Bellows, of New York, the acknowledged Unitarian leader, was entrusted the selection of the one to fill the vacant pulpit.  He knew the available men and did not hesitate.  He notified Horatio Stebbins, of Portland, Maine, that he was called by the great disaster to give up the parish he loved and was satisfied to serve and take the post of the fallen leader on the distant shore.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Dr. Bellows at once came to San Francisco to comfort the bereaved church and to prepare the way for Mr. Stebbins, who in the meantime went to New York to minister to Dr. Bellows' people in his absence.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It was during the brief and brilliant ministry of Dr. Bellows that good fortune brought me to San Francisco.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Dr. Bellows was a most attractive preacher, persuasive and eloquent.  His word and his manner were so far in advance of anything to which I was accustomed that they came as a revelation of power and beauty.  I was entranced, and a new world of thought and feeling opened before me.  Life itself took on a new meaning, and I realized the privilege <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Early in September, Horatio Stebbins and family arrived from New York, and Dr. Bellows returned to his own church.  The installation of the successor of Starr King was an impressive event.  The church building that had been erected by and for King was a beautiful and commodious building, but it would not hold all the people that sought to attend the installation of the daring man who came to take up the great work laid down by the preacher-patriot.  He was well received, and a feeling of relief was manifest.  The church was still in strong hands and the traditions would be maintained.</P>
137.sgm:<P>On September 9th Dr. Stebbins stood modestly but resolutely in the pulpit so sanctified by the memory of King.  Few men have faced sharper trials and met them with more serenity and apparent lack of consciousness.  It was not because of self-confidence or of  failure to recognize what was before him.  He knew very well what was implied in following such a man as Starr King, but he was so little concerned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Toward the end of his life he spoke of always having preached from the level of his own mind.  It was always true of him.  He never strained for effect, or seemed unduly concerned for results.  In one of his prayers he expresses his deep philosophy of life: "Help us, each one in his place, in the place which is providentially allotted to us in life, to act well our part, with consecrated will, with pure affection, with simplicity of heart--to do our duty, and to leave the rest to God."  It was wholly in that spirit that Dr. Stebbins took up the succession of Thomas Starr King.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Personally, I was very glad to renew my early admiration for Mr. Stebbins, who had chosen his first parish at Fitchburg, adjoining my native town, and had always attracted me when he came to exchange with our minister.  He was a strong, original, manly character, with great endowments of mind and heart.  He was to enjoy a remarkable ministry of over thirty-five years and endear himself to all who knew him.  He was a great preacher and a great man.  He inspired confidence, and was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>In his own home he was especially happy, and it was a great privilege to share his table-talk and hospitality, for he had a great fund of kindly humor and his speech was bright with homely metaphor and apt allusions.  Not only was he a great preacher, he was a leader, an inspirer, and a provoker of good.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>What it meant to fall under the influence of such a man cannot be told.  Supplementing the blessing was the association with a number of the best of men among the church adherents.  Hardly second to the great and unearned friendship of Dr. Stebbins was that of Horace Davis, ten years my senior, and very close to Dr. Stebbins in every way.  He had been connected with the church almost from the first and was a firm friend of Starr King.  Like Dr. Stebbins, he was a graduate of Harvard.  Scholarly, and also able in business, he typified sound judgment and common sense, was conservative by nature, but fresh and vigorous of mind.  He was active in the Sunday-school.  We also were associated in club life and as fellow directors of the Lick School.  Our friendship was uninterrupted for more than fifty years.  I had great regard for Mrs. Davis and many happy hours were passed in their home.  Her interpretation of Beethoven was in my experience unequaled.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It is impossible even to mention the many men of character and conscience who were a helpful influence to me in my happy church life.  Captain Levi Stevens was very good to me; C. Adolphe Low was one of the best men I ever knew; I had unbounded respect for Horatio Frost; Dr. Henry Gibbons was very dear to me; and Charles R. Bishop I could not but love.  These few represent a host of noble associates.  I would I could mention more of them.</P>
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137.sgm:<illus entity="a137-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HORATIO STEBBINS.  SAN FRANCISCO, 1864-1900</P>
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137.sgm:<P>We all greatly enjoyed the meetings of a Shakespeare Club that was sustained for more than twelve consecutive years among congenial friends in the church.  We read half a play every other week, devoting the latter part of the evening to impromptu charades, in which we were utterly regardless of dignity and became quite expert.</P>
137.sgm:<P>At our annual picnics we joined in the enjoyment of the children.  I recall my surprise and chagrin at having challenged Mr. Davis to a footrace at Belmont one year, giving him distance as an age handicap, and finding that I had overestimated the advantage of ten years difference.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In 1890 we established the Unitarian Club of California.  Mr. Davis was the first president.  For seventeen years it was vigorous and prosperous.  We enjoyed a good waiting-list and twice raised the limit of membership numbers.  It was then the only forum in the city for the discussion of subjects of public interest.  Many distinguished visitors were entertained.  Booker T. Washington was greeted by a large audience and so were Susan B. Anthony and Anna H. Shaw.  As time passed, other organizations afforded opportunity for discussion, and numerous less formal church clubs accomplished its purpose in a simpler manner.</P>
137.sgm:<P>A feature of strength in our church has been the William and Alice Hinckley Fund, established in 1879 by the will of Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>We worshiped in the Geary and Stockton church for more than twenty-three years, and then concluded it was time to move from a business district to a residential section.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Dr. Stebbins generally enjoyed robust health, but in 1899 he was admonished that he must lay down the work he loved so well.  In September of that year, at his own request, he was relieved from active service and elected Minister Emeritus.  Subsequently his health improved, and frequently he was able to preach; but in 1900, with his family, he returned to New England, where he lived with a good degree of comfort at Cambridge, near his children, occasionally preaching, but gradually failing in health.  He suffered severely at the last, and found final release on April 8, 1901.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Of the later history of the church I need say little.  Recollections root in the remote.  For thirteen years we were served by Rev. Bradford Leavitt, and for the past eight Rev. Caleb S. S. Dutton has been our leader.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>I would also bear brief testimony to the Sunday-school.  All my life I had attended Sunday-school, --the best available.  I remember well the school in Leominster and the stories told by Deacon Cotton and others.  I remember my teacher in Boston.  Coming to California I took what I could get, first the little Methodist gathering and then the more respectable Presbyterian.  When in early manhood I came to San Francisco I entered the Bible-class at once.  The school was large and vigorous.  The attendance was around four hundred.  Lloyd Baldwin, an able lawyer, was my first teacher, and a good one, but very soon I was induced to take a class of small boys.  They were very bright and too quick for a youth from the country.  One Sunday we chanced to have as a lesson the healing of the daughter of Jairus.  In the gospel account the final word was the injunction: "Jesus charged them that they tell no man."  In all innocence I asked the somewhat leading question: "What did Jesus charge them?"  Quick as a flash one of the boys answered, "He didn't charge them a cent."  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>In the Sunday-school library I met Charles W. Wendte, then a clerk in the Bank of California.  He had been befriended and inspired by Starr King and soon turned from business and studied for the ministry.  He is now a D.D. and has a long record of valuable service.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In 1869 J. C. A. Hill became superintendent of the school and appointed me his assistant.  Four years later he returned to New Hampshire, much to our regret, and I succeeded him.  With the exception of the two years that Rev. William G. Eliot, Jr., was assistant to Dr. Stebbins, and took charge of the school, I served until 1914.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Very many pleasant memories cluster around my connection with the Sunday-school.  The friendships made have been enduring.  The beautiful young lives lured me on in service that never grew monotonous, and I have been paid over and over again for all I ever gave.  It is a great satisfaction to feel that five of our nine church trustees are graduates of the Sunday-school.  I attended my first Christmas festival of the Sunday-school in Platt's Hall in 1864, and I have never missed one since.  Fifty-seven consecutive celebrations incidentally testify to unbroken health.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In looking back on what I have gained from the church, I am impressed with the fact that the association with the fine men and women <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>BY-PRODUCT</P>
137.sgm:<P>IN the conduct of life we select, or have assigned, certain measures of activity upon which we rely for our support and the self-respect that follows the doing of our part.  This we call our business, and if we are wise we attend to it and prosecute it with due diligence and application.  But it is not all of life, and its claim is not the only call that is made upon us.  Exclusive interest and devotion to it may end in the sort of success that robs us of the highest value, so that, however much substance we accumulate, we are failures as men.  On the other hand, we take risks if we slight its just demands and scatter our powers on miscellaneous interests.  Whatever its value, every man, in addition to what he primarily produces, turns out some by-product.  If it is worth anything, he may be thankful and add the amount to total income.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The extracts of which this chapter is composed are selections from the editorial columns of <HI REND="italics">The Pacific Unitarian</HI>
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137.sgm:<P>THE BEGINNING</P>
137.sgm:<P>THIRTY years ago, a fairly active Sunday-school was instigated to publish a monthly journal, nominally for all the organizations of the First Unitarian Society.  It was not expected to be of great benefit, except to the school.  After a year and a half it was adopted by the Conference, its modest name, <HI REND="italics">The Guidon</HI>
137.sgm:, being expanded to <HI REND="italics">The Pacific Unitarian</HI>
137.sgm:<P>Probably the most remarkable circumstance connected with it is that it has lived.  The fact that it has enjoyed the opportunity of choice between life and death is quite surprising.  Other journals have had to die.  It has never been easy to live, or absolutely necessary to die.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Anyhow, we have the thirty years of life to look back upon and take satisfaction in.  We are grateful for friends far and near, and generous commendation has been pleasant to receive, whether it has been justified or not.</P>
137.sgm:<P>CHRISTIANITY</P>
137.sgm:<P>WE realize more and more truly that Christianity in its spirit is a very different thing from Christianity as a theological structure formulated by the makers of the creed.  The amazing thing is that such a misconception of the message of Jesus as has generally prevailed has given us a civilization so creditable.  The early councils were incapable of being led by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>THE PRODIGAL'S FATHER</P>
137.sgm:<P>WHAT a difference in the thought of God and in the joy of life would have followed had the hearers of Jesus given the parable of the Prodigal Son its full significance!  They would then have found in the happy, loving father and his full forgiveness of the son who "came to himself" a type of the Heavenly Father.  The shadow of the olden fear still persists, chilling human life.  We do not trust the love of God and bear life's burdens with cheerful courage.  From lurking fear of the jealous king of Hebrew tradition, we are even afraid to be happy when we might.  We fail of faith in the reality of God's love.  We forget the robe, the ring, the overflowing joy of the earthly father, not earned by the prodigal, but given from complete love.  The thing best worth while is faith in the love of God.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>If it be lacking, perhaps the best way to gain it is to assume it--to act on the basis of its existence, putting aside our doubts, and giving whatever love we have in our own hearts a chance to strengthen.</P>
137.sgm:<P>WHITSUNTIDE</P>
137.sgm:<P>WHITSUNTIDE is a church season that too often fails to receive due acknowledgment or recognition.  It is, in observance, a poor third.  Christmas is largely diverted to a giving of superfluous gifts, and is popular from the wide-felt interest in the happiness of children.  Easter we can not forget, for it celebrates the rising or the risen life, and is marked by the fresh beauty of a beautiful world.  To appreciate the pentecostal season and to care for spiritual inspiration appeals to the few, and to those few on a higher plane.  But of all that religion has to give, it represents the highest gift, and it has to do with the world's greatest need.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Spiritual life is the most precious of possessions, the highest attainment of humanity.  Happy are we if our better spirit be quickened, if our hearts be lifted up, and our wills be strengthened, that worthy life may bring peace and joy!</P>
137.sgm:<P>WHY THE CHURCH?</P>
137.sgm:<P>WE cannot deny the truth that the things of the spirit are of first importance; but when it comes to living we seem to belie our convictions.  We live as though we thought the spirit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The church has no monopoly of righteousness, but it is of immense importance in cultivating the religious spirit, and cannot safely be dispensed with.  And so it must be strongly supported and made efficient.  To those who know true values this is an investment that cannot safely be ignored.  To it we should give generously of our money, but equally generously we should give ourselves--our presence, our co-operation, our loyal support of our leaders, our constant effort to hold it to high ideals.  If it is to give life, it must have life, and whatever life it has is the aggregation of our collected and consecrated lives.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The church called Christian cannot win by holding its old trenches.  It must advance to the line that stretches from our little fortress <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>We believe in God and we believe in man.  As President Eliot lately put it, "We believe in the principles of a simple, practical, and democratic religion.  We are meeting ignorance, not with contempt, but with knowledge.  We are meeting dogmatism and superstition, not with impatience, but with truth.  We are meeting sin and injustice, not with abuse, but with good-will and high idealism.  We have the right message for our time."  To the church that seems to us to most nearly realize these ideals, it is our bounden duty, and should be our glad privilege, to present ourselves a reasonable sacrifice, that we may do our part in bringing in God's Kingdom.</P>
137.sgm:<P>THE CHURCH AND PROGRESS</P>
137.sgm:<P>REFORMS depend upon reformed men.  Perhaps the greater need is <HI REND="italics">formed</HI>
137.sgm: men.  As we survey the majority of men around us, they seem largely unconscious of what they really are and of the privileges and responsibilities that appertain to manhood.  It must be that men are better, and more, than they seem.  Visit a baseball game or a movie.  The crowds seem wholly irresponsible, and, except in the pleasure or excitement sought, utterly uninterested--apparently without principle or purpose.  And <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>This is encouraging, but must not relieve us from doing our utmost to inform more fully every son of man of his great opportunity and responsibility, and also of inspiring him to use his life to his and our best advantage.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It is so evident that world-welfare rests upon individual well-being that we cannot escape the conviction that the best thing any one of us can do is to help to make our fellow-men better and happier.  And the part of wisdom is to organize for the power we gain.</P>
137.sgm:<P>It would seem that the church should be the most effective agency for promoting individual worth and consequent happiness.  Is it?--and if not, why not?  We are apt to say we live in a new age, forgetting how little change of form matters.  Human nature, with its instincts and desires, love of self, and the general enjoyment of, and through, possessions, is so little changed that differences in condition and circumstance have only a modifying influence.  It is man, the man within, that counts--not his clothing.</P>
137.sgm:<P>But it is true that human institutions do undergo great changes, and nothing intimate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>THE GENUINE UNITARIAN</P>
137.sgm:<P>UNITARIANS owe first allegiance to the Kingdom of God on earth.  It is of little consequence through which door it is entered.  If any other is nearer or broader or more attractive, use it.  We offer ours for those who prefer it or who find others not to be entered without a password they cannot pronounce.</P>
137.sgm:<P>A Unitarian who merely says he is one thereby gives no satisfactory evidence that he is.  There are individuals who seem to think they are Unitarians because they are nothing else.  They regard Unitarianism as the next to nothing in its requirement of belief, losing all sight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>As regards our responsibility for the growth of Unitarianism, we surely cannot fail to recognize it, but it should be clearly qualified by our recognition of the object in view.  To regard Unitarianism as an end to be pursued for its own sake does not seem compatible with its own true spirit.  The church itself is an instrument, and we are in right relation when we give the Unitarian church our preference, as, to us, the best instrument, while we hold first allegiance to the idealism for which it stands and to the goodness it seeks to unfold in the heart of man.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Nor would we seek growth at any sacrifice of high quality or purpose.  We do not expect large numbers and great popular applause.  Unitarians are pioneers, and too independent and discriminating to stir the feverish pulse of the multitude.  We seek the heights, and it is our concern to reach them and hold them for the few that struggle up.  Loaves and fishes we have not to offer, nor can we promise wealth and health as an attractive by-product of righteousness.</P>
137.sgm:<P>There is no better service that anyone can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>HAVE WE DONE OUR WORK?</P>
137.sgm:<P>NOW and then some indifferent Unitarian expresses doubt as to the future value of our particular church.  There are those who say, "Why should we keep it up?  Have we not done our work?"  We have seen our original protests largely effective, and rejoice that more liberal and generous, and, we believe, more just and true, religious convictions prevail; but have we been constructive and strengthening?  And until we have made our own churches fully free and fruitful in spiritual life are we absolved from the call to service?</P>
137.sgm:<P>Have we earned our discharge from the army <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:of life?  Shall we be deserters or slackers?  We ask no man to fight with us if his loyalty to any other corps is stronger, but to fight <HI REND="italics">somewhere</HI>
137.sgm:<P>We are not Unitarians first.  We are not even Christians first.  We are human first, seeking the best in humanity, in our appointed place in a civilization that finds its greatest inspiration in the leadership of Jesus of Nazareth, we are next Christian, and we are finally Unitarians because for us their point of view embodies most truly the spirit that animated his teachings and his life.</P>
137.sgm:<P>And so we appeal to those who really, not nominally, are of our household of faith to feel that it is best worth while to stand by the nearest church and to support it generously, that it may do its part in soul service and world welfare, and also to encourage it and give it more abundant life through attendance and participation in its activities.</P>
137.sgm:<P>OF FIRST IMPORTANCE</P>
137.sgm:<P>IT is well for each soul, in the multiplicity of questions besetting him, to deliberately face them and determine what is of first importance.  Aspects are so diverse and bewildering that if we do not reduce them to some order, giving them rank, we are in danger of becoming purposeless drifters on the sea of life.</P>
137.sgm:<P>What is the most important thing in life?  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>We find a world of infinite diversity in conditions, in aims, and in results.  One of the most striking differences is in regard to what we call success.  We are prone to conclude that he who is prosperous in the matter of having is the successful man.  Possessing is the proof of efficiency, and he who possesses little has measurably failed in the main object of life.  This conclusion has a measure of truth, but is not wholly true.  We see not a few instances of utter poverty of life concurrent with great possessions, and are forced to conclude that the real value of possessions is dependent on what they bring us.  Merely to have is of no advantage.  Indeed it may be a burden or a curse.  Happiness is at least desirable, but it has no necessary connection with property accumulations.  They may make it possible, but they never insure it.  Possession may be an incident, but seldom is a cause.</P>
137.sgm:<P>If we follow this thought further we shall find that in the accepted methods of accumulation arise many of the causes of current misery and unhappiness.  Generally he who is said to succeed pays a price, and a large one, for the prosperity he achieves.  To be conspicuously <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>THE BEST IN LIFE</P>
137.sgm:<P>THE power and practical irresponsibility of money have ruined many a man, and the misuse of wealth has left unused immense opportunity for good.  It has coined a word that has become abhorrent, and "Capitalism" has, in the minds of the suspicious, become the all-sufficient cause of everything deplorable in human conditions.  No true-hearted observer can conclude that the first consideration of life should be wealth.  On the other hand, no right-minded person will ignore the desirability and the duty of judiciously providing the means for a reasonable degree of comfort and self-respect, with a surplus for the furtherance of human welfare in general, and the relief of misfortune and suffering.  Thrift is a virtue; greed is a vice.  Reasonable possession is a commendable and necessary object.  The unrestrained avarice that today is making cowards of us all is an unmeasured curse, a world-wide disgrace that threatens civilization.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>In considering ends of life we cannot ignore those who consider happiness as adequate.  Perhaps there are few who formulate this, but there are many who seem to give it practical assent.  They apparently conform their lives to this butterfly estimate, and, in the absence of any other purpose, rest satisfied.  Happiness is indeed a desirable condition, and in the highest sense, where it borders on blessedness, may be fairly termed "the end and aim of being."  But on the lower stretches of the senses, where it becomes mere enjoyment or pleasure, largely concerned with amusement and self-indulgence of various sorts, it becomes parasitic, robbing life of its strength and flavor and preventing its development and full growth.  It is insidious in its deterioration and omnivorous in its appetite.  It tends to habits that undermine and to the appropriation of a preponderating share of the valueless things of life.  The danger is in the unrestrained appetite, in intemperance that becomes habit.  Pleasure is exhausting of both purse and mind.  We naturally crave pleasant experiences, and we need a certain amount of relaxation.  The danger is in overindulgence and indigestion resulting in spiritual invalidism.  Let us take life sanely, accepting pleasures gratefully but moderately.</P>
137.sgm:<P>But what <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
137.sgm: best in life?  Why, life itself.  Life is opportunity.  Here it is, around us, offered to us.  We are free to take what we can or what we like.  We have the great privilege of choice, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>We are providentially assigned our place, whatever it is, but in no fixed sense of its being final and unalterable.  The only obligation implied is that of acceptance until it can be bettered.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Our moral responsibility is limited to our opportunity, and the vital question is the use we make of it.  The great fact of life is that we are spiritual beings.  Religion has to do with soul existence and is the field of its development.  It is concerned primarily with being and secondly with doing.  It is righteousness inspired by love.  It is recognition of our responsibilities to do God's will.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Hence the best life is that which accepts life as opportunity, and faithfully, happily seeks to make the most of it.  It seeks to follow the right, and to do the best it can, in any circumstances.  It accepts all that life offers, enjoying in moderation its varied gifts, but in restraint of self-indulgence, and with kindly consideration of others.  It subordinates its impulses to the apprehended will of God, bears trials with fortitude, and trusts eternal good.</P>
137.sgm:<P>OVERCOMING OBSTACLES</P>
137.sgm:<P>ONE of the most impressive sights in the natural world is the difficulties resisted and overcome by a tree in its struggle for life.  On the very summit of the Sentinel Dome, over eight <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Reason should not be behind instinct in making the most of life.  While man is less rigidly conditioned and may modify his environment, he, too, may nourish his life by using to the full whatever nutriment is offered.  Lincoln has been characterized as a man who made the most of his life.  Perhaps his greatness consisted mostly in that.</P>
137.sgm:<P>We are inclined to blame conditions and circumstances for failures that result from our lack of effort.  We lack in persistence, we resent disparity in the distribution of talents, we blink at responsibility, and are slothful and trifling.  Our life is a failure from lack of will.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>Who are we that we should complain that life is hard, or conclude that it is not better so?  Why do we covet other opportunities instead of doing the best with those we have?  What is the glory of life but to accept it with such satisfaction as we can command, to enjoy what we have a right to, and to use all it offers for its upbuilding and fulfillment?</P>
137.sgm:<P>BEING RIGHT</P>
137.sgm:<P>HOW evident it is that much more than good intentions is needed in one who would either maintain self-respect or be of any use in his daily life!  It is not easy to be good, but it is often less easy to be right.  It involves an understanding that presupposes both ability and effort.  Intelligence, thinking, often studious consideration, are necessary to give a working hypothesis of what is best.  It is seldom that anything is so simple that without careful thought we can be sure that one course is right and another wrong.  Perhaps, after we have weighed all that is ponderable, we can only determine which seems the better course of action.  Being good may help our judgment.  Doing right is the will of God.</P>
137.sgm:<P>PATRIOTISM</P>
137.sgm:<P>"LET us have faith that right makes might, and in that faith let us to the end dare to do our duty as we understand it."  Abraham Lincoln had a marvelous aptitude for condensed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Whatever the circumstances presented and whatever the immediate result will be, we are to dare to do our duty as we understand it.  And we are so to dare and so to do in complete faith that right makes might and in utter disregard of fear that might may triumph.  The only basis of true courage is faith, and our trust must be in right, in good, in God.</P>
137.sgm:<P>We live in a republic that sustains itself through the acceptance by all of the will of the majority, and to talk of despotism whenever the authority necessary for efficiency is exercised, and that with practically unanimous concurrence, is wholly unreasonable.  A man who cannot yield allegiance to the country in which he lives should either be silent and inactive or go to some country where his sympathy corresponds with his loyalty.</P>
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137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>CONCERNING PERSONS</P>
137.sgm:<P>As years increase we more and more value the personal and individual element in human life.  Character becomes the transcendent interest and friends are our chief assets.  As I approach the end of my story of memories I feel that the most interesting feature of life has been the personal.  I wish I had given more space to the people I have known.  Fortune has favored me with friends worth mentioning and of acquaintances, some of whom I must introduce.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Of Horatio Stebbins, the best friend and strongest influence of my life, I have tried to express my regard in a little book about to be published by the Houghton Mifflin Company of Boston.  It will be procurable from our San Francisco Unitarian Headquarters.  That those who may not see it may know something of my feeling, I reprint a part of an editorial written when he died.</P>
137.sgm:<P>HORATIO STEBBINS</P>
137.sgm:<P>THE thoughts that cluster around the memory of Horatio Stebbins so fill the mind that nothing else can be considered until some expression is made of them, and yet the impossibility <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In my early boyhood Horatio Stebbins was "the preacher from Fitchburg"--original in manner and matter, and impressive even to a boy.  Ten years passed, and our paths met in San Francisco.  From the day he first stood in the historic pulpit as successor of that gifted preacher and patriot, Starr King, till his removal to Cambridge, few opportunities for hearing him were neglected by me.  His influence was a great blessing, association with him a delight, his example an inspiration, and his love the richest of undeserved treasures.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Dr. Stebbins was ever the kindliest of men, and his friendliness and consideration were not confined to his social equals.  Without condescension, he always had a kind word for the humblest people.  He was as gentlemanly and courteous to a hackdriver as he would be to a college president.  None ever heard him speak severely or impatiently to a servant.  He was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>As a friend he was loyalty itself, and for the slightest service he was deeply appreciative and grateful.  He was the most charitable of men, and was not ashamed to admit that he had often been imposed upon.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Of his rank as a thinker and a preacher I am not a qualified judge, but he surely was great of heart and strong of mind.  He was a man of profound faith, and deeply religious in a strong, manly way.  He inspired others by his trust and his unquestioned belief in the reality of spiritual things.  He never did anything for effect; his words fell from his lips in tones of wonderful beauty to express the thought and feeling that glowed within.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Noble man, great preacher, loving friend! thou art not dead, but translated to that higher life of which no doubt ever entered thy trusting mind!</P>
137.sgm:<P>HORACE DAVIS</P>
137.sgm:<P>HORACE DAVIS was born in Worcester, Massachusetts, on March 16, 1831.  His father was John Davis, who served as Governor of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Horace Davis graduated at Harvard in the class of 1849.  He began the study of the law, but his eyes failed, and in 1852 he came to California to seek his fortune.  He first tried the mines, starting a store at Shaw's Flat.  When the venture failed he came to San Francisco and sought any employment to be found.  He began by piling lumber, but when his cousin, Isaac Davis, found him at it he put him aboard one of his coasting schooners as supercargo.  Being faithful and capable, he was sought by the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, and was for several years a good purser.  He and his brother George had loaned their savings to a miller, and were forced to take over the property.  Mr. Davis become the accepted authority on wheat and the production of flour, and enjoyed more than forty years of leadership in the business which he accidentally entered.</P>
137.sgm:<P>He was always a public-spirited citizen, and in 1877 was elected to Congress, serving for two terms.  He proved too independent and unmanageable for the political leaders of the time and was allowed to return to private life.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In 1887 he was urged to accept the presidency of the University of California, and for three years he discharged the duties of the office with credit.</P>
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137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>His interest in education was always great, and he entered with ardor and intelligence into the discharge of his duties as a trustee of the School of Mechanical Arts established by the will of James Lick.  As president of the board, he guided its course, and was responsible for the large plan for co-operation and co-ordination by which, with the Wilmerding School and the Lux School (of which he was also a leading trustee), a really great endowed industrial school under one administrative management has been built up in San Francisco.  A large part of his energy was devoted to this end, and it became the strongest desire of his life to see it firmly established.  He also served for many years as a trustee for Stanford University, and for a time was president of the board.  To the day of his death (in July, 1916) he was active in the affairs of Stanford, and was also deeply interested in the University of California.  The degree of LL.D. was conferred by the University of the Pacific, by Harvard, and by the University of California.</P>
137.sgm:<P>From his earliest residence in San Francisco he was a loyal and devoted supporter of the First Unitarian Church and of its Sunday-school.  For over sixty years he had charge of the Bible-class, and his influence for spiritual and practical Christianity has been very great.  He gave himself unsparingly for the cause of religious education, and never failed to prepare himself for his weekly ministration.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Under the will of Captain Hinckley he was made a trustee of the William and Alice Hinckley Fund, and for thirty-seven years took an active interest in its administration.  At the time of his death he was its president.  He was deeply interested in the Pacific Unitarian School for the Ministry, and contributed munificently to its foundation and maintenance.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Mr. Davis preserved his youth by the breadth of his sympathies.  He seemed to have something in common with everyone he met; was young with the young.  In his talks to college classes he was always happy, with a simplicity and directness that attracted close attention, and a sense of humor that lighted up his address.</P>
137.sgm:<P>His domestic life was very happy.  His first wife, the daughter of Captain Macondray, for many years an invalid, died in 1872.  In 1875 he married Edith King, the only daughter of Thomas Starr King, a woman of rare personal gifts, who devoted her life to his welfare and happiness.  She died suddenly in 1909.  Mr. Davis, left alone, went steadily on.  His books were his constant companions and his friends were always welcome.  He would not own that he was lonely.  He kept occupied; he had his round of duties, attending to his affairs, and the administration of various benevolent trusts, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Mr. Davis was a man of profound religious feeling.  He said little of it, but it was a large part of his life.  On his desk was a volume of Dr. Stebbins' prayers, the daily use of which had led to the reading again and again of the book he very deeply cherished.</P>
137.sgm:<P>He was the most loyal of friends--patient, appreciative beyond deserts, kindly, and just.  The influence for good of such a man is incalculable.  One who makes no pretense of virtue, but simply lives uprightly as a matter of course, who is genuine and sound, who does nothing for effect, who shows simple tastes, and is not greedy for possessions, but who looks out for himself and his belongings in a prudent, self-respecting way, who takes what comes without complaint, who believes in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>A MEMORY OF EMERSON</P>
137.sgm:<P>IN 1871 Ralph Waldo Emerson visited California.  He was accompanied by his daughter Ellen, and seemed thoroughly to enjoy the new scenes and new experiences.  He visited the Yosemite Valley and other points of interest, and was persuaded to deliver a number of lectures.  His first appearance before a California audience was at the Unitarian church, then in Geary Street near Stockton, on a Sunday evening, when he read his remarkable essay on "Immortality," wherein he spoke of people who talk of eternity and yet do not know what to do with a day.  The church was completely filled and the interest to hear him seemed so great that it was determined to secure some week-day lectures if possible.  In company with Horace Davis, who enjoyed his acquaintance, I called on him at the Occidental Hotel.  He was the most approachable of men--as simple and kindly in his manner as could be imagined, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<illus entity="a137-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HORACE DAVIS--FIFTY YEARS A FRIEND</P>
137.sgm:<illus entity="a137-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HARVARD UNIVERSITY WHEN HE ENTERED</P>
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137.sgm:<P>His talk was delightfully genial.  I asked him if his journey had been wearisome.  "Not at all," he replied; "I have enjoyed it all."  The scenery seemed to have impressed him deeply.  "When one crosses your mountains," he said, "and sees their wonderful arches, one discovers how architecture came to be invented."  When asked if he could favor us with some lectures, he smiled and said: "Well, my daughter thought you might want something of that kind, and put a few in my trunk, in case of an emergency."  When it came to dates, it was found that he was to leave the next day for a short trip to the Geysers, and it was difficult to arrange the course of three, which had been fixed upon, after his return.  It was about eleven o'clock when we called.  I asked him if he could give us one of the lectures that evening.  He smiled and said, "Oh, yes," adding, "I don't know what you can do here, but in Boston we could not expect to get an audience on such short notice."  We assured him that we felt confident in taking the chances on that.  Going at once to the office of the <HI REND="italics">Evening Bulletin</HI>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>The audience was a good one in point of numbers, and a pleased and interested one.  His peculiar manner of reading a few pages, and then shuffling his papers, as thought they were inextricably mixed, was embarrassing at first, but when it was found that he was not disturbed by it, and that it was not the result of an accident, but a characteristic manner of delivery, the audience withheld its sympathy and rather enjoyed the novelty and the feeling of uncertainty as to what would come next.  One little incident of the lecture occasioned an admiring smile.  A small bunch of flowers had been placed on the reading-desk, and by some means, in one of his shuffles, they were tipped over and fell forward to the floor.  Not at all disconcerted, he skipped nimbly out of the pulpit, picked up the flowers, put them back in the vase, replaced it on the desk, and went on with the lecture as though nothing had happened.</P>
137.sgm:<P>He was much interested in the twenty-dollar gold pieces in which he was paid, never before having met with that form of money.  His encouraging friendliness of manner quite removed any feeling that a great man's time was being wasted through one's intercourse.  He gossiped pleasantly of men and things as though talking with an equal.  On one occasion he seemed greatly to enjoy recounting how cleverly James Russell Lowell imitated Alfred Tennyson's reading of his own poems.  Over the Sunday-school of our church Starr King <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>After his return from his short trip he gave two or three more lectures, with a somewhat diminishing attendance.  Dr. Stebbins remarked in explanation, "I thought the people would tire in the sockets of their wings if they attempted to follow <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
137.sgm:<P>At this distance, I can remember little that he said, but no distance of time or space can ever dim the delight I felt in meeting him, or the impression formed of a most attractive, penetrating, and inspiring personality.</P>
137.sgm:<P>His kindliness and geniality were unbounded.  During our arrangement of dates Mr. Davis smiled as he said of one suggested by Mr. Emerson, "That would not be convenient for Mr. Murdock, for it is the evening of his wedding."  He did not forget it.  After the lecture, a few days later, he turned to me and asked, "Is she here?"  When I brought my flattered wife, he chatted with her familiarly, asking where she had lived before coming to California, and placing her wholly at ease.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Every tone of his voice and every glance of his eye suggested the most absolute serenity.  He seemed the personification of calm wisdom.  Nothing disturbed him, nothing depressed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:him.  He was as serene and unruffled as a morning in June.  He radiated kindliness from a heart at peace with all mankind.  His gentleness of manner was an illustration of the possibility of beauty in conduct.  He was wholly self-possessed--to imagine him in a passion would be impossible.  His word was searching, but its power was that of the sunbeam and not of the blast.  He was above all teapot tempests, a strong, tender, fearless, trustful <HI REND="italics">man</HI>
137.sgm:<P>JULIA WARD HOWE</P>
137.sgm:<P>JULIA WARD HOWE is something more than a noble memory.  She has left her impress on her time, and given a new significance to woman-hood.  To hear the perfect music of the voice of so cultivated a woman is something of an education, and to have learned how gracious and kindly a great nature really is, is an experience well worth cherishing.  Mrs. Howe was wonderfully alive to a wide range of interests--many-sided and sympathetic.  She could take the place of a minister and speak effectively from deep conviction and a wide experience, or talk simply and charmingly to a group of school-children.</P>
137.sgm:<P>When some years later than her San Francisco visit she spoke at a King's Chapel meeting in Boston, growing feebleness was apparent, but the same gracious spirit was undimmed.  Later pictures have been somewhat pathetic.  We do not enjoy being reminded of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:mortality in those of pre-eminent spirit, but what a span of events and changes her life records, and what a part in it all she had borne!  When one ponders on the inspiring effect of the Battle Hymn of the Republic, and of the arms it nerved and the hearts it strengthened, and on the direct blows she struck for the emancipation of woman, it seems that there has been abundant answer to her prayer,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"As He died to make men holy,<LB>Let us die to make men free."</HI>
137.sgm:<P>TIMOTHY H. REARDEN</P>
137.sgm:<P>IN glancing back, I can think of no more charming man than Timothy Rearden.  He had a most attractive personality, combining rare intelligence and kindly affection with humor and a modesty that left him almost shy.  He was scholarly and brilliant, especially in literature and languages.  His essays and studies in Greek attracted world-acknowledgment, but at home he was known chiefly as a genial, self-effacing lawyer, not ambitious for a large practice and oblivious of position, but happy in his friends and in delving deep into whatever topic in the world of letters engaged his interest.</P>
137.sgm:<P>He was born in Ohio in 1839 and graduated from the Cleveland High School and from Kenyon College.  He served in the Civil War and came to California in 1866.  He was a fellow-worker with Bret Harte in the Mint, and also on the <HI REND="italics">Overland Monthly</HI>
137.sgm:, contributing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>He was a favorite member of the Chit-Chat Club for many years and wrote many brilliant essays, a volume of which was printed in 1893.  The first two he gave were "Francis Petrarch" and "Burning Sappho."  Among the most charming was "Ballads and Lyrics," which was illustrated by the equally charming singing of representative selections by Mrs. Ida Norton, the only time in its history when the club was invaded by a woman.  Its outside repetition was clamored for, and as the Judge found a good excuse in his position and its requirements, he loaned the paper and I had the pleasure of substituting for him.</P>
137.sgm:<P>When I was a candidate for the legislature he issued a card that was a departure from political methods.  It was during the time when all the names were submitted on the ballot and voters crossed off those they did not want to win.  He sent his friends a neat card, as follows:</P>
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137.sgm:<P>CHARLES A. MURDOCK</P>
137.sgm:<P>(<HI REND="italics">Of C. A. Murdock &amp; Co., 532 Clay Street</HI>
137.sgm:<P>IS ONE OF THE REPUBLICAN CANDIDATES</P>
137.sgm:<P>FOR THE ASSEMBLY FROM THE TENTH</P>
137.sgm:<P>SENATORIAL DISTRICT</P>
137.sgm:<P>If you prefer any candidate on any other ticket,</P>
137.sgm:<P>scratch Murdock.</P>
137.sgm:<P>If you require any pledge other than that he will vote</P>
137.sgm:<P>according to his honest convictions, scratch Murdock.</P>
137.sgm:<P>His friend, Ambrose Bierce, spoke of him as the most scholarly man on the Pacific Coast.  He was surely among the most modest and affectionate.  He had remarkable poetic gifts.  In 1892 the Thomas Post of the Grand Army of the Republic held a memorial service, and he contributed a poem beginning:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Life's fevered day declines; its purple twilight falling<LB>Draws length'ning shadows from the broken flanks;<LB>And from the column's head a viewless chief is calling;<LB>`Guide right; close up your ranks!'"</HI>
137.sgm:<P>He was ill when it was read.  A week from the day of the meeting the happy, well-loved man breathed his last.</P>
137.sgm:<P>JOHN MUIR</P>
137.sgm:<P>JOHN MUIR, naturalist, enthusiast, writer, glorifier of the Sierras, is held in affectionate memory the world over, but especially in California, where he was known as a delightful personality.  Real pleasure and a good understanding of his nature and quality await those who read of the meeting of Emerson and Muir <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>I was afterward charmed by his sketch of an adventure with a dog called "Stickeen," on one of the great Alaskan glaciers, and, meeting him, urged that he make a little book of it.  He was pleased and told me he had just done it.  Late in life he was shocked at what he considered the desecration of the Hetch-Hetchy Valley by the city of San Francisco, which sought to dam it and form a great lake that should forever furnish a supply of water and power.  He came to my office to supervise the publication of the <HI REND="italics">Sierra Club Bulletin</HI>
137.sgm:, and we had a spirited but friendly discussion of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:matter, I being much interested as a supervisor of the city.  As a climax he exclaimed, "Why, if San Francisco ever gets the Hetch-Hetchy I shall <HI REND="italics">swear</HI>
137.sgm:<P>GEORGE HOLMES HOWISON</P>
137.sgm:<P>AMONG the many beneficent acts of Horatio Stebbins in his distinguished ministry in San Francisco was his influence in the establishment of the chair of Moral Philosophy in the University of California.  It was the gift of D. O. Mills, who provided the endowment on the advice of Dr. Stebbins.  The first occupant appointed was Professor Howison, who from 1884 to 1912 happily held a fruitful term.  He was admirably fitted for his duties, and with the added influence of the Philosophical Union contributed much to the value of the university.  A genial and kindly man, with a keen sense of humor, he was universally and deeply respected by the students and by his associates.  He made philosophy almost popular, and could differ utterly from others without any of the common results of antagonism, for he generated so much more light than heat.  His mind was so stored that when he began to speak there seemed to be no reason aside from discretion why he should ever stop.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I enjoyed to the full one little business incident with him.  In my publications I followed a somewhat severe style of typography, especially priding myself on the possession of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Professor Howison furnished one of the best stories of the great earthquake of 1906.  In common with most people, he was in bed at fourteen minutes past five on the 18th of April.  While victims generally arose and dressed more or less, the Professor calmly remained between the sheets, concluding that if he was to die the bed would be the most fitting and convenient place to be in.  It took more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>JOSIAH ROYCE</P>
137.sgm:<P>IT is doubtful if any son of California has won greater recognition than Josiah Royce, born in Grass Valley in November, 1855.  In 1875 he graduated at the University of California.  After gaining his Ph.D. at Johns Hopkins, he returned to his <HI REND="italics">alma mater</HI>
137.sgm:<P>He joined the Chit-Chat Club in 1879 and continued a member until his removal to Harvard in 1882.  He was a brilliant and devoted member, with a whimsical wit and entire indifference to fit of clothes and general personal appearance.  He was eminently good-natured and a very clever debater.  With all the honors heaped upon him, he never forgot his youthful associates.  At a reunion held in 1916 he sent this friendly message to the club: "Have warmest memories of olden time.  Send heartiest greetings to all my fellow members.  I used to be a long-winded speaker in Chit-Chat, but my love far outlasts my speeches.  You inspired my youth.  You make my older years glow."</P>
137.sgm:<P>In my youthful complacency I had the audacity to print an essay on "The Policy of Protection," taking issue with most of my brother members, college men and free-traders.  Later, while on a visit to California, he told <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>He died honored everywhere as America's greatest philosopher, one of the world's foremost thinkers, and withal a very lovable man.</P>
137.sgm:<P>CHARLES GORDON AMES</P>
137.sgm:<P>IN the early days Rev. Charles Gordon Ames preached for a time in Santa Cruz.  Later he removed to San Jose, and occasionally addressed San Francisco audiences.  He was original and witty and was in demand for special occasions.  In an address at a commencement day at Berkeley, I heard him express his wonder at being called upon, since he had matriculated at a wood-pile and graduated in a printing-office.  Several years after he had returned East I was walking with him in Boston.  We met one of his friends, who said, "How are you, Ames?"  "Why, I'm still at large, and have lucid intervals," replied the witty preacher.  He once told me of an early experience in candidating.  He was asked to preach in Worcester, where there was a vacancy.  Next day he met a friend who told him the results, saying: "You seem to have been fortunate in satisfying both the radicals and the conservatives.  But your language was something of a surprise; it does not follow the usual Harvard type, and does not seem ministerial.  You used unaccustomed illustrations.  You spoke of something being as slow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>JOAQUIN MILLER</P>
137.sgm:<P>THE passing of Joaquin Miller removed from California her most picturesque figure.  In his three-score and twelve years he found wide experience, and while his garb and habits were somewhat theatrical he was a strong character and a poet of power.  In some respects he was more like Walt Whitman than any other American poet, and in vigor and grasp was perhaps his equal.  Of California authors he is the last of the acknowledged leading three, Harte and Clemens completing the group.  For many years he lived with his wife and daughter at "The Heights," in the foothills back of Oakland, writing infrequently, but with power and insight.  His "Columbus" will probably be conceded to be his finest poem, and one of the most perfect in the language.  He held his faculties till the last, writing a few days before his death a tender message of faith in the eternal.</P>
137.sgm:<P>With strong unconventionality and a somewhat abrupt manner, he was genial and kindly in his feelings, with warm affections and great companionability.</P>
137.sgm:<P>An amusing incident of many years ago comes back to freshen his memory.  An entertainment of a social character was given at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:Oakland Unitarian church, and when my turn came for a brief paper on wit and humor I found that Joaquin Miller sat near me on the platform.  As an illustration of parody, bordering on burlesque, I introduced a Miller imitation--the story of a frontiersman on an Arizona desert accompanied by a native woman of "bare, brown beauty," and overtaken by heat so intense that but one could live, whereupon, to preserve the superior race, he seized a huge rock and <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Crushed with fearful blow<LB>Her well-poised head."</HI>
137.sgm:<P>It was highly audacious, and but for a youthful pride of authorship and some curiosity as to how he would take it I should have omitted it.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Friends in the audience told me that the way in which I watched him from the corner of my eye was the most humorous thing in the paper.  At the beginning his head was bowed, and for some time he showed no emotion of any sort, but as I went on and it grew worse and worse, he gave way to a burst of merriment and I saw that I was saved.</P>
137.sgm:<P>I was gratified then, and his kindliness brings a little glow of good-will--that softens my farewell.</P>
137.sgm:<P>MARK TWAIN</P>
137.sgm:<P>OF Mark Twain my memory is confined to two brief views, both before he had achieved his fame.  One was hearing him tell a story with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The sharp contrast between his incomparably beautiful word paintings and his ludicrous humor was characteristic of two sides of the waggish newspaper reporter who developed into a good deal of a philosopher and the first humorist of his time.</P>
137.sgm:<P>SHELDON GAYLORD KELLOGG</P>
137.sgm:<P>AMONG my nearest friends I am proud to count Sheldon G. Kellogg, associated through both the Unitarian church, the Sunday-school, and the Chit-Chat Club.  He was a lawyer with a large and serviceable conscience as well as a well-trained mind.  He grew to manhood in the Middle West, graduated in a small Methodist college, and studied deeply in Germany.  He came to San Francisco, establishing himself in practice without acquaintance, and by sheer ability and character compelled success.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Kellogg was an eminently fair man.  He took part in a political convention on one occasion and was elected chairman.  There was a bitter fight between contending factions, but Kellogg was so just in his rulings that both sides were satisfied and counted him friendly.</P>
137.sgm:<P>He was a lovable personality and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>JOSEPH WORCESTER</P>
137.sgm:<P>IT is a salutary experience to see the power of goodness, to know a man whose loveliness of life and character exerts an influence beyond the reach of great intellectual gift or conscious effort.  Joseph Worcester was a modest, shrinking Swedenborgian minister.  His congregation was a handful of refined mystics who took no prominent part in public affairs and were quiet and unobtrusive citizens.  He was not attractive as a preacher, his voice trembled with emotion and bashfulness, and he read with difficulty.  He was painfully shy, and he was oppressed and suffered in a crowd.  He was unmarried and lived by himself in great simplicity.  He seemed to sustain generally good health on tea, toast, and marmalade, which at noonday he often shared with his friend William Keith, the artist.</P>
137.sgm:<P>He was essentially the gentle man.  In public speaking his voice never rang out with indignation.  He preserved the conversational tone and seemed devoid of passion and severity.  He was patient, kind, and loving.  He had humor, and a pleasant smile generally lighted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>He thought very effectually of others.  He was helpfulness incarnate, and since he was influential, surprising results followed.  He was fond of children and gave much time to the inmates of the Protestant Orphan Asylum, conducting services and reading to them.  They grew very fond of him, and his influence on them was naturally great.  He was much interested in the education of the boys and in their finding normal life.  He took up especially the providing for them of a home where they could live happily and profitably while pursuing a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>FREDERICK LUCIAN HOSMER</P>
137.sgm:<P>I CANNOT forego the pleasure of referring with sincere affection to my brother octogenarian, Frederick L. Hosmer.  He achieved the fullness of honor two months in advance of me, which is wholly fitting, since we are much farther separated in every other regard.  He has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>His kindly friendship has long been one of the delights of my life, and I have long entertained the greatest respect and admiration for his ability and quality.  As a writer of hymns he has won the first place in the world's esteem, and probably his noble verse is (after the Psalms) the most universally used expression of the religious feeling of mankind.  More worshipers unite in singing his hymns, Unitarian though he be, than those of any other man, living or dead.  It is a great distinction, and in meriting it he holds enviable rank as one of the world's greatest benefactors.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Yet he remains the most modest of men, with no apparent consciousness that he is great.  His humility is an added charm and his geniality is beautiful.</P>
137.sgm:<P>He has made the most of a fancied resemblance to me, and in many delightful ways has indulged in pleasantries based on it.  In my room hangs a framed photograph signed "Faithfully yours, Chas. A. Murdock."  It is far better-looking than I ever was--but that makes no difference.</P>
137.sgm:<P>We were once at a conference at Seattle.  He said with all seriousness, "Murdock, I want you to understand that I intend to exercise great circumspection in my conduct, and I rely upon you to do the same."</P>
137.sgm:<P>I greatly enjoyed Dr. Hosmer's party, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>THOMAS LAMB ELIOT</P>
137.sgm:<P>WHEN Horatio Stebbins in 1864 assumed charge of the San Francisco church he was the sole representative of the denomination on the Pacific Coast.  For years he stood alone, --a beacon-like tower of liberalism.  The first glimmer of companionship came from Portland, Oregon.  At the solicitation of a few earnest Unitarians Dr. Stebbins went to Portland to consult with and encourage them.  A society was formed to prepare the way for a church.  A few consecrated women worked devotedly; they bought a lot in the edge of the woods and finally built a small chapel.  Then they moved for a minister.</P>
137.sgm:<P>In St. Louis, Mo., Rev. William Greenleaf Eliot had been for many years a force in religion and education.  A strong Unitarian church and Washington University resulted.  He had also founded a family and had inspired sons to follow in his footsteps.  Thomas Lamb Eliot had been ordained and was ready for the ministry.  He was asked to take the Portland church and he accepted.  He came first to San Francisco on his way.  Dr. Stebbins was trying the experiment of holding services in the Metropolitan Theater, and I remember seeing in the stage box one Sunday a very prepossessing couple <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The ministry of the son in Portland has been much like that of the father in St. Louis.  The church has been reverent and constructive, a steady force for righteousness, an influence for good in personal life and community welfare.  Dr. Eliot has fostered many interests, but the church has been foremost.  He has always been greatly respected and influential.  Dr. Stebbins entertained for him the highest regard.  He was wont to say: "Thomas Eliot is the wisest man for his years I ever knew."  He has always been that and more to me.  He has served one parish all his life, winning and holding the reverent regard of the whole community.  The active service of the church has passed to his son and for years he has given most of his time and strength to Reed College, established by his parishioners.  In a few months he will complete his eighty years of beautiful life and noble service.  He has kept the faith and passed on the fine spirit of his inheritance.</P>
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137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>OUTINGS</P>
137.sgm:<P>I HAVE not been much of a traveler abroad, or even beyond the Pacific states.  I have been to the Atlantic shore four times since my emigration thence, and going or coming I visited Chicago, St. Louis, Denver, and other points, but have no striking memories of any of them.  In 1914 I had a very delightful visit to the Hawaiian Islands, including the volcano.  It was full of interest and charm, with a beauty and an atmosphere all its own; but any description, or the story of experiences or impressions, would but re-echo what has been told adequately by others.  British Columbia and western Washington I found full of interest and greatly enjoyed; but they also must be left unsung.  My outings from my beaten track have been brief, but have contributed a large stock of happy memories.  Camping in California is a joy that never palls, and among the pleasantest pictures on memory's walls are the companionship of congenial friends in the beautiful surroundings afforded by the Santa Cruz Mountains.  Twice in all the years since leaving Humboldt have I revisited its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>I am thankful for the opportunity I have enjoyed of seeing so fully the great Pacific empire.  My church supervision included California, Oregon, and Washington, with the southern fringe of Canada for good measure.  Even without this attractive neighbor my territory was larger than France (or Germany) and Belgium, England, Wales, and Ireland combined.  San Diego, Bellingham, and Spokane were the triangle of bright stars that bounded the constellation.  To have found friends and to be sure of a welcome at all of these and everywhere between was a great extension to my enjoyment, and visiting them was not only a pleasant duty but a delightful outing.</P>
137.sgm:<P>IN THE SIERRAS</P>
137.sgm:<P>BELATED vacations perhaps gain more than they lose, and in the sum total at least hold their own.  It is one advantage of being well distributed that opportunities increase.  In that an individual is an unsalaried editor, extensive or expensive trips are unthinkable; that his calling affords necessities but a scant allowance of luxuries, leaves recreation in the Sierras out of the question; but that by the accidents of politics he happens to be a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The city had an option on certain remote lands supposed to be of great value for water and power, and no one wants to buy a pig of that size in a poke, so it was ordained that the city fathers, with their engineer and various clerks and functionaries entitled to a vacation and desiring information (or <HI REND="italics">vice versa</HI>
137.sgm:<P>In 1908 the supervisors inspected the damsites at Lake Eleanor and the Hetch-Hetchy, but gained little idea of the intervening country and the route of the water on its way to the city.  Subsequently the trip was more thoroughly planned and the result was satisfactory, both in the end attained and in the incidental process.</P>
137.sgm:<P>On the morning of August 17, 1910, the party of seventeen disembarked from the Stockton boat, followed by four fine municipal automobiles.  When the men and the machines were satisfactorily supplied with fuel and the outfit was appropriately photographed, the procession started mountainward.  For some time the good roads, fairly well watered, passed over level, fruitful country, with comfortable homes.  Then came gently rolling land and soon the foothills, with gravelly soil and scattered pines.  A few orchards and ranches were passed, but not much that was really attractive.  Then we reached the scenes of early-day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Then came a stratum of mills and mines, mostly deserted, a few operating sufficiently to discolor with the crushed mineral the streams flowing by.  Soon we reached the Tuolumne, with clear, pellucid water in limited quantities, for the snow was not very plentiful the previous winter and it melted early.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Following its banks for a time, the road turned to climb a hill, and well along in the afternoon we reached "Priests," a favorite roadhouse of the early stage line to the Yosemite.  Here a good dinner was enjoyed, the machines were overhauled, and on we went.  Then Big Oak Flat, a mining town of some importance, was passed, and a few miles farther Groveland, where a quite active community turned out en masse to welcome the distinguished travelers.  The day's work was done and the citizens showed a pathetic interest which testified to how little ordinarily happened.  The shades of night were well down when Hamilton's was reached--a stopping-place once well known, but now off the line of travel.  Here we were hospitably entertained and slept soundly after a full day's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The ride to the rim of the South Fork of the Tuolumne was short.  The new trail was not sufficiently settled to be safe for the sharp descents, and for three-quarters of a mile the horses and mules were turned loose and the company dropped down the mountainside on foot.  The lovely stream of water running between mountainous, wooded banks was followed up for many miles.</P>
137.sgm:<P>About midday a charming spot for luncheon was found, where Corral Creek tumbles in a fine cascade on its way to the river.  The day was warm, and when the mouth of Eleanor Creek was reached many enjoyed a good swim in an attractive deep basin.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Turning to the north, the bank of Eleanor was followed to the first camping-place, Plum Flat, an attractive clearing, where wild plums have been augmented by fruit and vegetables.  Here, after a good dinner served in the open by the municipal cooks, the municipal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>A ride of fifteen miles through a finely wooded country brought us to the Lake Eleanor dam-site and the municipal camp, where general preparations are being made and run-off records are being taken.  In a comfortable log house two assistants to the engineer spent the winter, keeping records of rainfall and other meteorological data.</P>
137.sgm:<P>While we were in camp here, Lake Eleanor, a mile distant, was visited and enjoyed in various ways, and those who felt an interest in the main purpose of the trip rode over into the Cherry Creek watershed and inspected the sites and rights whose purchase is contemplated.  Saturday morning we left Lake Eleanor and climbed the steep ridge separating its watershed from that of the Tuolumne.  From Eleanor to Hetch-Hetchy as the crow would fly, if there were a crow and he wanted to fly, is five miles.  As mules crawl and men climb, it takes five hours.  But it is well worth it for association with granite helps any politician.</P>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Hetch-Hetchy Valley is about half as large as Yosemite and almost as beautiful.  Early in the season the mosquitoes make life miserable, but as late as August the swampy land is pretty well dried up and they are few.  The Tuolumne tumbles in less effectively than the Merced enters Yosemite.  Instead of two falls of nine hundred feet, there is one of twenty or so.  The Wampana, corresponding to the Yosemite Falls, is not so high nor so picturesque, but is more industrious, and apparently takes no vacation.  Kolana is a noble knob, but not quite so imposing as Sentinel Rock.</P>
137.sgm:<P>We camped in the valley two days and found it very delightful.  The dam-site is not surpassed.  Nowhere in the world, it is said, can so large a body of water be impounded so securely at so small an expense.</P>
137.sgm:<P>There is an admirable camping-ground within easy distance of the valley, and engineers say that at small expense a good trail, and even a wagon-road, can be built along the face of the north wall, making possible a fine view of the magnificent lake.</P>
137.sgm:<P>With the argument for granting the right the city seeks I am not here concerned.  The only purpose in view is the casual recital of a good time.  It has to do with a delightful sojourn in good company, with songs around the campfire, trips up and down the valley, the taking of photographs, the appreciation of brook-trout, the towering mountains, the moon and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The climbing of the south wall in the early morning, the noonday stop at Hog Ranch, and the touching farewell to mounts and pack-train, the exhilarating ride to Crocker's, and the varied attractions of that fascinating resort, must be unsung.  A night of mingled pleasure and rest with every want luxuriously supplied, a half-day of good coaching, and once more Yosemite--the wonder of the West.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Its charms need no rehearsing.  They not only never fade, but they grow with familiarity.  The delight of standing on the summit of Sentinel Dome, conscious that your own good muscles have lifted you over four thousand feet from the valley's floor, with such a world spread before you; the indescribable beauty of a sunrise at Glacier Point, the beauty and majesty of Vernal and Nevada falls, the knightly crest of the Half Dome, and the imposing grandeur of the great Capitan--what words can even hint their varied glory!</P>
137.sgm:<P>All this packed into a week, and one comes back strengthened in body and spirit, with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>A DAY IN CONCORD</P>
137.sgm:<P>THERE are many lovely spots in New England when June is doing her best.  Rolling hills dotted with graceful elms, meadows fresh with the greenest of grass, streams of water winding through the peaceful stretches, robins hopping in friendly confidence, distant hills blue against the horizon, soft clouds floating in the sky, air laden with the odor of lilacs and vibrant with songs of birds.  There are many other spots of great historic interest, beautiful or not--it doesn't matter much--where memorable meetings have been held which set in motion events that changed the course of history, or where battles have been fought that no American can forget.  There are still other places rich with human interest where some man of renown has lived and died--some man who has made his undying mark in letters, or has been a source of inspiration through his calm philosophy.  But if one would stand upon the particular spot which can claim supremacy in each of these three respects, where can he go but to Concord, Massachusetts?</P>
137.sgm:<P>It would be hard to find a lovelier view anywhere in the gentle East than is to be gained from the Reservoir Height--a beautifully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Turning to its historic interest, one is reminded of it at every side.  Upon a faithful reproduction of the original meeting-house, a tablet informs the visitor that here the first meeting was held that led to national independence.  A placard on a quaint old hostelry informs us that it was a tavern in pre-Revolutionary times.  Leaving the "common," around which most New England towns cluster, one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:soon reaches Monument Street.  Following it until houses grow infrequent, one comes to an interesting specimen which seems familiar.  A conspicuous sign proclaims it private property and that sightseers are not welcome.  It is the "Old Manse" made immortal by the genius of Hawthorne.  Near by, an interesting road intersects leading to a river.  Soon we descry a granite monument at the famous bridge, and across the bridge "The Minute Man."  The inscription on the monument informs us that here the first British soldier fell.  An iron chain incloses a little plot by the side of a stone wall where rest those who met the first armed resistance.  Crossing the bridge which spans a dark and sluggish stream one reaches French's fine statue with Emerson's noble inscription, -- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"By the rude bridge that arched the flood,<LB>Their flag to April's breeze unfurled,<LB>Here once the embattled farmers stood<LB>And fired the shot heard round the world."</HI>
137.sgm:<P>No historic spot has a finer setting or an atmosphere so well fitted to calm reflection on a momentous event.</P>
137.sgm:<P>On the way to Concord, if one is so fortunate as to go by trolley, one passes through Lexington and catches a glimpse of its bronze "Minute Man," more spirited and lifelike in its tense suspended motion than French's calm and determined farmer-soldier.  In the side of a farmhouse near the Concord battle-field--if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>But Concord is richest in the memory of the men who have lived and died there, and whose character and influence have made it a center of world-wide inspiration.  One has but to visit Sleepy Hollow Cemetery to be impressed with the number and weight of remarkable names associated with this quiet town, little more than a village.  Sleepy Hollow is one of a number of rather unusual depressions separated by sharp ridges that border the town.  The hills are wooded, and in some instances their steep sides make them seem like the half of a California canyon.  The cemetery is not in the cuplike valley, but on the side and summit of a gentle hill.  It is well kept and very impressive.  One of the first names to attract attention is "Hawthorne," cut on a simple slab with rounded top.  It is the sole inscription on the little stone about a foot high.  Simplicity could go no farther.  Within a small radius are found the graves of Emerson, Thoreau, Alcott, John Weiss, and Samuel Hoar.  Emerson's monument is a beautiful boulder, on the smoothed side of which is placed a bronze <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>The most enjoyable incident of the delightful Decoration Day on which our trip was made was a visit to Emerson's home.  His daughter was in New York, but we were given the privilege of freely taking possession of the library and parlor.  Everything is as the sage left it.  His books are undisturbed, his portfolio of notes lies upon the table, and his favorite chair invites the friend who feels he can occupy it.  The atmosphere is quietly simple.  The few pictures are good, but not conspicuous or insistent.  The books bear evidence of loving use.  Bindings were evidently of no interest.  Nearly all the books are in the original cloth, now faded and worn.  One expects to see the books of his contemporaries and friends, and the expectation is met.  They are mostly in first editions, and many of them are almost shabby.  Taking down the first volume of <HI REND="italics">The Dial</HI>
137.sgm:, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:found it well filled with narrow strips of paper, marking articles of especial interest.  The authors' names not being given, they were frequently supplied by Mr. Emerson on the margin.  I noticed opposite one article the words "T. Parker" in Mr. Emerson's writing.  The books covered one side of a good-sized room and ran through the connecting hall into the quaint parlor, or sitting-room, behind it.  A matting covered the floor, candlesticks rested on the chimney-piece, and there was no meaningless bric-a-brac, nor other objects of suspected beauty to distract attention.  As you enter the house, the library occupies the large right-hand corner room.  It was simple to the verge of austerity, and the farthest possible removed from a "collection."  There was no effort at arrangement--they were just books, for use and for their own sake.  The portfolio of fugitive notes and possible material for future use was interesting, suggesting the source of much that went to make up those fascinating essays where the "thoughts" often made no pretense at sequence, but rested in peaceful unregulated proximity, like eggs in a nest.  Here is a sentence that evidently didn't quite satisfy him, an uncertain mark of erasure leaving the approved portion in doubt: "Read proudly.  Put the duty of being read invariably on the author.  If he is not read, whose fault is it?  I am quite ready to be charmed--but I shall not make believe I am charmed."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>Walden Pond is some little distance from the Emerson home, and the time at our disposal did not permit a visit.  But we had seen enough and felt enough to leave a memory of rare enjoyment to the credit of that precious day in Concord.</P>
137.sgm:<P>FIVE DAYS</P>
137.sgm:<P>THERE are several degrees of rest, and there are many ways of resting.  What is rest to one person might be an intolerable bore to another, but when one finds the ultimate he is never after in doubt.  He knows what is, to him, <HI REND="italics">the real thing</HI>
137.sgm:<P>My friend <ANCHOR ID="n11-11">*</ANCHOR>
137.sgm: has a novel retreat.  He is fond of nature as manifested in the growth of trees <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-11">Horace Davis.</NOTE>
137.sgm:<P>There was, too, a somewhat eccentric house where a man who was trying to be theosophical had lived and communed with his mystified soul.  To foster the process he had more or less blue glass and a window of Gothic form in the peak of his rambling house.  In his living-room a round window, with Sanskrit characters, let in a doubtful gleam from another room.  In the side-hill a supposedly fireproof vault had been built to hold the manuscript that held his precious thoughts.  In the gulch he had a sacred spot, where, under the majestic redwoods, he retired to write, and in a small building he had a small printing-press, from which the world was to have been led to the light.  But there was some failure of connection, and stern necessity compelled the surrender of these high hopes.  My friend took over the plant, and the reformer reformed and went off to earn his daily bread.</P>
137.sgm:<P>His memory is kept alive by the name Mahatma, given to the gulch, and the blue glass has what effect it may on a neighbor's vegetables.  The little house was made habitable.  The home of the press was comfortably ceiled and made into a guest-chamber, and apples and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>These children of the woodland vary in age from six months to sixteen years, and each has its interest and tells its story of struggle, with results of success or failure, as conditions determine.  At the entrance to the grounds an incense-cedar on one side and an arbor-vit&aelig; on the other stand dignified guard.  The acres have been added to until about sixty are covered with growing trees.  Around the house, which wistaria has almost covered, is a garden in which roses predominate, but hollyhocks, coreopsis, and other flowers not demanding constant care grow in luxuriance.  There is abundance of water, and filtered sunshine gives a delightful temperature.  The thermometer on the vine-clad porch runs up to 80 in the daytime and in the night drops down to 40.</P>
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137.sgm:<P>A sympathetic Italian lives not far away, keeping a good cow, raising amazingly good vegetables, gathering the apples and other fruit, and caring for the place.  The house is unoccupied except during the five days each month when my friend restores himself, mentally and physically, by rest and quiet contemplation and observation.  He takes with him a faithful servitor, whose old age is made happy by these periodical sojourns, and the simple life is enjoyed to the full.</P>
137.sgm:<P>Into this Resthaven it was my happy privilege to spend five-sevenths of a week of August, and the rare privilege of being obliged to do nothing was a great delight.  Early rising was permissible, but not encouraged.  At eight o'clock a rich Hibernian voice was heard to say, "Hot water, Mr. Murdock," and it was so.  A simple breakfast, meatless, but including the best of coffee and apricots, tree-ripened and fresh, was enjoyed at leisure undisturbed by thought of awaiting labor.  Following the pleasant breakfast chat was a forenoon of converse with my friend or a friendly book or magazine, broken by a stroll through some part of the wood and introduction to the hospitably entertained trees from distant parts.  My friend is something of a botanist, and was able to pronounce the court names of all his visitors.  Wild flowers still persist, and among others was pointed out one which was unknown to the world till he chanced to find it.  Very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<illus entity="a137-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IN THE SIERRAS, 1910<HSEP>OUTINGS<HSEP>IN HAWAII, 1914</P>
137.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>Another interesting feature of the landscape was the clearly marked course of the old "Indian trail," known to the earliest settlers, which followed through this region from the coast at Santa Cruz to the Santa Clara Valley.  It followed the most accessible ridges and showed elemental surveying of a high order.  Along its line are still found bits of rusted iron, with specks of silver, relics of the spurs and bridles of the caballeros of the early days.</P>
137.sgm:<P>The maples that sheltered the house are thinned out, that the sun may not be excluded, and until its glare becomes too radiant the steamer-chair or the rocker seeks the open that the genial page of "Susan's Escort, and Others," one of the inimitable books of Edward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>In the cool of the afternoon a longer walk.  Good trails lead over the whole place, and sometimes we would go afield and call on some neighbor.  Almost invariably they were Italians, who were thriving where improvident Americans had given up in despair.  Always my friend found friendly welcome.  This one he had helped out of a trouble with a refractory pump, that one he had befriended in some other way.  All were glad to see him, and wished him well.  What a poor investment it is to quarrel with a neighbor!</P>
137.sgm:<P>Sometimes my friend would busy himself by leading water to some neglected and thirsty plant, while I was re-reading "Tom Grogan" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>And so on for five momentous days.  Quite unlike the "Seven Days" in the delightful farce-comedy of that name, in which everything happened, here nothing seemed to happen.  We were miles from a post-office, and newspapers disturbed us not.  The world of human activity was as though it were not.  Politics as we left it was a disturbing memory, but no fresh outbreaks aggravated our discomfort.  We were at rest and we rested.  A good recipe for long life, I think, would be: withdraw from life's turmoil regularly--five days in a month.</P>
137.sgm:<P>AN ANNIVERSARY</P>
137.sgm:<P>THE Humboldt County business established and conducted on honor by Alex. Brizard was continued on like lines by his three sons with conspicuous success.  As the fiftieth anniversary approached they arranged to fitly celebrate the event.  They invited many of their father's and business associates to take part in the anniversary observance in July, 1913.  With regret, I was about to decline when my good friend Henry Michaels, a State Guard associate, who had become the head of the leading house in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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137.sgm:<P>From the fine highway following the main ridge the various branches of the Eel River were clearly outlined, and when we penetrated the world-famous redwood belt and approached the coast our enjoyment seemed almost impious, as though we were motoring through a cathedral.</P>
137.sgm:<P>We found Arcata bedecked for the coming anniversary.  The whole community felt its significance.  When the hour came every store in town closed.  Seemingly the whole population assembled in and around the Brizard store, anxious to express kindly memory and approval of those who so well sustained the traditions of the elders.  The oldest son made a brief, manly address and introduced a few of the many who could have borne tribute.  It was a happy occasion in which good-will was made very evident.  A ball in the evening concluded the festivities, and it was with positive regret that we turned from the delightful atmosphere and retraced our steps to home and duty.</P>
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137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P>OCCASIONAL VERSE</P>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>BOSTON<LB>(After Bret Harte)</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">On the south fork of Yuba, in May, fifty-two,<LB>An old cabin stood on the hill,<LB>Where the road to Grass Valley lay clear to the view,<LB>And a ditch that ran down to Buck's Mill.<LB>It was owned by a party that lately had come<LB>To discover what fate held in store;<LB>He was working for Brigham, and prospecting some,<LB>While the clothes were well cut that he wore.<LB>He had spruced up the cabin, and by it would stay,<LB>For he never could bear a hotel.<LB>He refused to drink whisky or poker to play,<LB>But was jolly and used the boys well.<LB>In the long winter evenings he started a club,<LB>To discuss the affairs of the day.<LB>He was up in the classics--a scholarly cub--<LB>And the best of the talkers could lay.<LB>He could sing like a robin, and play on the flute,<LB>And he opened a school, which was free,<LB>Where he taught all the musical fellows to toot,<LB>Or to join in an anthem or glee.<LB>So he soon "held the age" over any young man<LB>Who had ever been known on the bar;<LB>And the boys put him through, when for sheriff her ran,<LB>And his stock now was much above par..</HI>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">In the spring he was lucky, and struck a rich lead,<LB>And he let all his friends have a share;<LB>It was called the New Boston, for that was his breed,<LB>And the rock that he showed them was rare.<LB>When he called on his partners to put up a mill,<LB>They were anxious to furnish the means;<LB>And the needful, of course, turned into his till<LB>Just as freely as though it was beans.<LB>Then he went to the Bay with his snug little pile--<LB>There was seventeen thousand and more--<LB>To arrange for a mill of the most approved style,<LB>And to purchase a Sturtevant blower.<LB>But they waited for Boston a year and a day,<LB>And he never was heard of again.<LB>For the lead he had opened was salted with pay,<LB>And he'd played 'em with culture and brain.</HI>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE GREATER FREEDOM</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">O God of battles, who sustained<LB>Our fathers in the glorious days<LB>When they our priceless freedom gained,<LB>Help us, as loyal sons, to raise<LB>Anew the standard they upbore,<LB>And bear it on to farther heights,<LB>Where freedom seeks for self no more,<LB>But love a life of service lights.</HI>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>OUR FATHER</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Is God our Father?  So sublime the thought<LB>We cannot hope its meaning full to grasp,<LB>E'en as the Child the gifts the wise men brough<LB>Could not within his infant fingers clasp.<LB>We speak the words from early childhood taught.<LB>We sometimes fancy that their truth we feel;<LB>But only on life's upper heights is caught<LB>The vital message that they may reveal.<LB>So on the heights may we be led to dwell,<LB>That nearer God we may more truly know<LB>How great the heritage His love will tell<LB>If we be lifted up from things below.</HI>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>RESURGAM</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The stricken city lifts her head,<LB>With eyes yet dim from flowing tears;<LB>Her heart still throbs with pain unspent,<LB>But hope, triumphant, conquers fears.<LB>With vision calm, she sees her course,<LB>Nor shrinks, though thorny be the way.<LB>Shall human will succumb to fate,<LB>Crushed by the happenings of a day?<LB>The city that we love shall live,<LB>And grow in beauty and in power;<LB>Her loyal sons shall stand erect,<LB>Their chastened courage Heaven's dower.<LB>And when the story shall be told<LB>Of direful ruin, loss, and dearth,<LB>There shall be said with pride and joy:<LB>"But man survived, and proved his worth."</HI>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SAN FRANCISCO</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">O "city loved around the world,"<LB>Triumphant over direful fate,<LB>Thy flag of honor never furled,<LB>Proud guardian of the Golden Gate;<LB>Hold thou that standard from the dust<LB>Of lower ends or doubtful gain;<LB>On thy good sword no taint of rust;<LB>On stars and stripes no blot or stain.<LB>Thy loyal sons by thee shall stand,<LB>Thy highest purpose to uphold;<LB>Proclaim the word, o'er all the land,<LB>That truth more precious is than gold.<LB>Let justice never be denied,<LB>Resist the wrong, defend the right;<LB>Where West meets East stand thou in pride<LB>Of noble life, --a beacon-light.</HI>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE NEW YEAR</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The past is gone beyond recall,<LB>The future kindly veils its face;<LB>Today we live, today is all<LB>We have or need, our day of grace.<LB>The world is God's and hence 'tis plain<LB>That only wrong we need to fear;<LB>'Tis ours to live, come joy or pain,<LB>To make more blessed each New Year.</HI>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PRODIGALS</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">We tarry in a foreign land,<LB>With pleasure's husks elate,<LB>When robe and ring and Father's hand<LB>At home our coming wait.</HI>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<P>DEEP-ROOTED <HI REND="blockindent">Fierce Boreas in his wildest glee<LB>Assails in vain the yielding tree<LB>That, rooted deep, gains strength to bear,<LB>And proudly lifts its head in air.<LB>When loss or grief, with sharp distress,<LB>To man brings brunt of storm and stress,<LB>He stands serene who calmy bends<LB>In strength that trust, deep-rooted, lends.</HI>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TO HORATIO STEBBINS</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The sun still shines, and happy, blithesome birds<LB>Are singing on the swaying boughs in bloom.<LB>My eyes look forth and see no sign of gloom,<LB>No loss casts shadow on the grazing herds;<LB>And yet I bear within a grief that words<LB>Can ne'er express, for in the silent tomb<LB>Is laid the body of my friend, the doom<LB>Of silence on that matchless voice.  Now girds<LB>My spirit for the struggle he would praise.<LB>A leader viewless to the mortal eye<LB>Still guides my steps, still calls with clarion cry<LB>To deeds of honor, and my thoughts would raise<LB>To seek the truth and share the love on high.<LB>With loyal heart I'll follow all my days.</HI>
137.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>NEW YEAR, 1919</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The sifting sand that marks the passing year<LB>In many-colored tints its course has run<LB>Through days with shadows dark, or bright with sun,<LB>But hope has triumphed over doubt and fear,<LB>New radiance flows from stars that grace our flag.<LB>Our fate we ventured, though full dark the night,<LB>And faced the fatuous host who trusted might.<LB>God called, the country's lovers could not lag,<LB>Serenely trustful, danger grave despite,<LB>Untrained, in love with peace, they dared to fight,<LB>And freed a threatened world from peril dire,<LB>Establishing the majesty of right.<LB>Our loyal hearts still burn with sacred fire,<LB>Our spirits' wings are plumed for upward flight.</HI>
137.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>NEW YEAR, 1920</HEAD>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The curtain rises on the all-world stage,<LB>The play is unannounced; no prologue's word<LB>Gives hint of scene, or voices to be heard;<LB>We may be called with tragedy to rage,<LB>In comedy or farce we may disport,<LB>With feverish melodrama we may thrill,<LB>Or in a pantomimic ro&circ;le be still.<LB>We may find fame in field, or grace a court,<LB>Whate'er the play, forthwith its lines will start,<LB>And every soul, in cloister or in mart,<LB>Must act, and do his best from day to day--<LB>So says the prompter to the human heart.<LB>"The play's the thing," might Shakespear's Hamlet say.<LB>"The thing," to us, is playing well our part.</HI>
137.sgm:<BACK><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
137.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
137.sgm:<HEAD>EPILOGUE<LB><HI REND="other">Walking in the Way</HI>
137.sgm:<P><HI REND="other">To hold to faith when all seems dark -- to keep of good courage when failure follows failure -- to cherish hope when its promise is faintly whispered -- to bear without complaint the heavy burdens that must be borne -- to be cheerful whatever comes--to preserve high ideals -- to trust unfalteringly that well-being follows well-doing -- this is the Way of life -- To be modest in desires -- to enjoy simple pleasures -- to be earnest -- to be true -- to be kindly -- to be reasonably patient and everlastingly persistent -- to be considerate-- to be at least just -- to be helpful -- to be loving -- this is to walk therein.  Charles A Murdock</HI>
139.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-139</TITLE>
139.sgm:<TITLE>Two years before the mast; a personal narrative, by Richard Henry Dana, jr.; with a supplement by the author and introduction and additional chapter by his son ... with illustrations by E. Boyd Smith: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
139.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
139.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
139.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
139.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
139.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>11-35887</LCCN>
139.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
139.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 303028</COPYRIGHT>
139.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P><illus entity="a139-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
139.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P><illus entity="a139-0002" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
139.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>TWO YEARS BEFORE THE MAST</p><P>ILLUSTRATED COPYRIGHT EDITION</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DISLODGING THE HIDES (page 252)</p></CAPTION>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>TWO YEARS</p><P>BEFORE THE MAST</p><P>A PERSONAL NARRATIVE</p><P>BY RICHARD HENRY DANA, JR.</p><P>WITH A SUPPLEMENT BY THE AUTHOR AND</p><P>INTRODUCTION AND ADDITIONAL</p><P>CHAPTER BY HIS SON<LB>"<HI REND="italics">Housed on the wild sea, with wild usages</HI>
139.sgm: "</p><P>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY</p><P>E. BOYD SMITH</p><illus entity="a139-0004" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
139.sgm:<P>BOSTON AND NEW YORK</p><P>HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY</p><P>The Riverside Press Cambridge</p><P>1911</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1911, BY RICHARD H. DANA</p><P>ALL RIGHTS RESERVED</p></DIV>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>From drawings by E. Boyd Smith.<LB>DISLODGING THE HIDES ( <HI REND="italics">colored</HI>
139.sgm: ) (page 252)<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
139.sgm:<LB>THE SHIP ALERT ( <HI REND="italics">vignette</HI>
139.sgm: )<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Title-page</HI>
139.sgm:<LB>HARVARD COLLEGE IN 1836<HSEP>ix<LB><HSEP>After a drawing by Eliza S. Quincy, in the "History of Harvard University" by Josiah Quincy.<LB>RICHARD HENRY DANA, JR.<HSEP>xii<LB><HSEP>From a daguerreotype in 1842.<LB>THE BRIG PILGRIM SETTING SAIL<HSEP>1<LB>LECTURING THE CREW<HSEP>4<LB>THE CAPTAIN<HSEP>12<LB>SIGHTING A VESSEL<HSEP>20<LB>WHALES AND GRAMPUSES<HSEP>30<LB>FALLING OVERBOARD<HSEP>42<LB>FACSIMILE FROM SHORT DIARY WRITTEN AT SEA<HSEP>42<LB><HSEP>From this, after the long diary was lost, the copy for the book was prepared.<LB>FACSIMILE OF THE UNOFFICIAL LOG OF THE ALERT<HSEP>42<LB><HSEP>Kept by the Mate Amazeen.<LB>FACSIMILE OF MS. USED FOR THE BOOK<HSEP>43<LB>MAN OVERBOARD! ( <HI REND="italics">colored</HI>
139.sgm: )<HSEP>44<LB>LANDING AT JUAN FERNANDEZ<HSEP>49<LB>TARRING<HSEP>58<LB>LANDING IN THE COMBERS<HSEP>66<LB>IN A SOUTHEASTER<HSEP>76<LB>IN A SQUALL<HSEP>82</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>MEXICAN OFFICERS OF THE CUSTOMS<HSEP>89<LB>TRADING<HSEP>93<LB>LANDING GOODS "CALIFORNIA FASHION"<HSEP>106<LB>HIDE DROGHING ( <HI REND="italics">colored</HI>
139.sgm: )<HSEP>108<LB>FLOGGING<HSEP>121<LB>A HOLIDAY<HSEP>139<LB>LANDING "OLD BESS"<HSEP>149<LB>BACK WATER FOR YOUR LIVES!<HSEP>159<LB>HIDE-CURING<HSEP>177<LB>KANAKAS FIGHTING "JOHNNY SHARK"<HSEP>197<LB>BURNING THE WATER ( <HI REND="italics">colored</HI>
139.sgm: )<HSEP>206<LB>AN INDIAN FIGHT<HSEP>209<LB>SWIMMING AFTER THE VESSEL<HSEP>217<LB>HOLYSTONING THE DECK<HSEP>225<LB>LOADING THE HIDES<HSEP>249<LB>A DRY GALE<HSEP>259<LB>WASHING DAY<HSEP>281<LB>A SET-TO<HSEP>292<LB>SITTING AROUND THE FORECASTLE<HSEP>307<LB>READING "WOODSTOCK"<HSEP>325<LB>FURLING THE FORESAIL ( <HI REND="italics">colored</HI>
139.sgm: )<HSEP>350<LB>WASHING OFF CALIFORNIA GRIME<HSEP>353<LB>SHIPPING A HEAVY SEA<HSEP>369<LB>FURLING THE TOPGALLANT-SAILS IN A BLIZZARD ( <HI REND="italics">colored</HI>
139.sgm: )<HSEP>378<LB>AMONG THE ICEBERGS ( <HI REND="italics">colored</HI>
139.sgm: )<HSEP>384<LB>ICE ON THE LEE BOW<HSEP>398<LB>"YOU BROWN"<HSEP>413</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>HOW QUIETLY THEY DO THEIR WORK ( <HI REND="italics">colored</HI>
139.sgm: )<HSEP>422<LB>A NARROW ESCAPE<HSEP>427<LB>PAINTING HER<HSEP>437<LB>HOME AGAIN<HSEP>450<LB>SAN FRANCISCO IN 1854, FROM THE HEAD OF SACRAMENTO STREET<HSEP>462<LB><HSEP>From a photograph by Sarony &amp; Co. in "The Annals of San Francisco," by Frank Soule.<LB>4 BERKELEY STREET, CAMBRIDGE<HSEP>503<LB><HSEP>The Home of R. H. Dana Jr., from 1852 to 1869.<LB>VESSELS: THEIR SPARS, RIGGING, AND SAILS, WITH NOTES AND KEYS<HSEP>526<LB><HSEP>Drawn for the "Seaman's Friend" (1841) under the direction of the author, R. H. Dana, Jr.<LB>COURSE OF THE BRIG PILGRIM FROM BOSTON TO CALIFORNIA, AND OF THE SHIP ALERT FROM CALIFORNIA TO BOSTON<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Front end papers</HI>
139.sgm:<LB>CALIFORNIA COAST AND PORTS VISITED<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Back end papers</HI>
139.sgm:<LB>SHIP ALERT ( <HI REND="italics">colored</HI>
139.sgm: )<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Cover</HI>
139.sgm:<LB><HSEP>From a painting by Sidney M. Chase, in the possession of the author's son, R. H. Dana.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>IN 1869, my father, the late Richard Henry Dana, Jr., prepared a new edition of his "Two Years Before the Mast" with this preface:</p><P>"After twenty-eight years, the copyright of this book has reverted to me.  In presenting the first 'author's edition' to the public, I have been encouraged to add an account of a visit to the old scenes, made twenty-four years after, together with notices of the subsequent story and fate of the vessels, and of some of the persons with whom the reader is made acquainted."</p><P>The popularity of this book has been so great and continued that it is now proposed to make an illustrated edition with new material.  I have prepared a concluding chapter to continue my father's "Twenty-four Years After."  This will give all that we have since learned of the fate of crew and vessels, and a brief account of Mr. Dana himself and his important lifework, which appears more fully in his published biography<ANCHOR ID="ni-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: and printed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:speeches and letters.<ANCHOR ID="ni-12">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: This concluding chapter will take the place of the biographic sketch prefixed to the last authorized edition.  There is also added an appendix with a list of the crews of the two vessels in which Mr. Dana sailed, extracts from a log, and also plates of spars, rigging and sails, with names, to aid the reader.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-11"><HI REND="italics">Richard Henry Dana, Jr</HI>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-12"><HI REND="italics">Speeches in Stirring Times and Letters to a Son</HI>
139.sgm:<P>In the winter of 1879-80 I sailed round Cape Horn in a full-rigged ship from New York to California.  At the latter place I visited the scenes of "Two Years Before the Mast."  At the old town of San Diego I met Jack Stewart, my father's old shipmate, and as we were looking at the dreary landscape and the forlorn adobe houses and talking of California of the thirties, he burst out into an encomium of the accuracy and fidelity to details of my father's book.  He said, "I have read it again and again.  It all comes back to me, everything just as it happened.  The seamanship is perfect."  And then as if to emphasize it all, with the exception that proves the rule, he detailed one slight case where he thought my father was at fault, --a detail so slight that I now forget what it is.  In reading the Log kept by the discharged mate, Amerzeen, on the return trip in the Alert, I find that every incident there recorded, from running aground at the start at San Diego Harbor, through the perilous icebergs round the Horn, the St. Elmo's fire, the scurvy of the crew and the small matters like the painting of the vessel, to the final sail up Boston Harbor, confirms my father's record.  His former shipmate, the late B. G. Stimson, a distinguished citizen of Detroit, said the account of the flogging was far from an exaggeration, and Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:Faucon of the Alert also during his lifetime frequently confirmed all that came under his observation.  Such truth in the author demands truth in illustration, and I have co-operated with the publishers in securing a painting of the Alert under full sail and other illustrations, both colored and in pen and ink, faithful to the text in every detail.</p><P>Accuracy, however, is not the secret of the success of this book.  Its flowing style, the use of short Anglo-Saxon words,<ANCHOR ID="ni-13">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: its picturesqueness, the power of description, the philosophic arrangement all contribute to it, but chiefly, I believe, the enthusiasm of the young Dana, his sympathy for his fellows and interest in new scenes and strange peoples, and with it all, the real poetry that runs through the whole.  As to its poetry, I will quote from Mrs. Bancroft's "Letters from England," giving the opinion of the poet Samuel Rogers:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="ni-13">Extracts from this book were chosen by the oculists of the United States for use in testing eyes on account of its clearness in style and freedom from long words.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>"LONDON, June 20, 1847.</p><P>"The 19th, Sat. we breakfasted with Lady Byron and my friend Miss Murray, at Mr. Rogers'....After breakfast he had been repeating some lines of poetry which he thought fine, when he suddenly exclaimed, 'But there is a bit of American <HI REND="italics">prose</HI>
139.sgm:, which, I think, has more poetry in it, than almost any modern verse.'  He then repeated, I should think, more than a page from Dana's 'Two Years Before the Mast' describing the falling overboard of one of the crew, and the effect it produced, not only at the moment, but for some time afterward.  I wondered at his memory, which enabled him to recite so beautifully a long prose passage, so much more difficult than verse.  Several of those present, with whom the book was a favorite, were so glad to hear from me that it was as <HI REND="italics">true</HI>
139.sgm: as interesting, for they had regarded it as partly a work of imagination."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>In writing the book Mr. Dana had a motive which inspired him to put into it his very best.  The night after the flogging of his two fellow-sailors off San Pedro, California, Mr. Dana, lying in his berth, "vowed that, if God should ever give me the means, I would do something to redress the grievances and relieve the sufferings of that class of beings with whom my lot has been so long cast."  This vow he carried out in no visionary scheme of mutiny or foolish "paying back" to the captain, but by awakening a "strong sympathy" for the sailors "by a voice from the forecastle," in his "Two Years Before the Mast."</p><P>While at sea he made entries almost daily in a pocket notebook and at leisure hours wrote these out fully.  This full account of his voyage was lost with his trunk containing sailors' clothes and all souvenirs and presents for family and friends by the carelessness of a relative who took charge of his things at the wharf when he landed in Boston in 1836.  Later, while in the Law School, Mr. Dana re-wrote this account from the notebook, which, fortunately, he had not entrusted to the lost trunk.  This account he read to his father and Washington Allston, artist and poet, his uncle by marriage.  Both advised its publication and the manuscript was sent to William Cullen Bryant, who had then moved to New York.  Mr. Bryant, after looking it over, took it to a prominent publisher of his city, as the publishers at that time most able to give the book a large sale.  They offered to buy the book outright but refused the author any share in the profits.  The firm had submitted the manuscript to Alonzo Potter, afterwards Bishop of Pennsylvania, then acting as one of their readers.  Bishop Potter, meeting Dana in England years later, told him most emphatically that he had advised the purchase at any price necessary to secure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RICHARD H. DANA, JR., IN 1842</p></CAPTION>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:it.  The most, however, that the elder Dana and Bryant were able to get from the publishers was $250, so that modest sum with two dozen printed copies was all the author received at that time for this most successful book.  Incidentally, however, the publication brought Mr. Dana law practice, especially among sailors, and was an introduction to him not only in this country but in England.  Editions were published in Great Britain and France.  Moxon, the London publisher, sent Mr. Dana not only presentation copies but as a voluntary honorarium, there being no international copyright law at that time, a sum of money larger than the publisher gave him for the manuscript.  He also received kindly words of appreciation from Rogers, Brougham, Moore, Bulwer, Dickens and others, and fifteen years later his reputation secured him a large social and literary reception in England in 1856.  At last, in 1868, the original copyright expired and my father brought out the "author's edition" thoroughly revised and with many important additions to the text including the "Twenty-four Years After" under a fair arrangement for percentage of sales with Fields, Osgood and Co., the predecessors of the present publishers.</p><P>In reading the story of this Harvard College undergraduate's experience, one should bear in mind, to appreciate the dangers of his rounding the Cape, that the brig Pilgrim was only one hundred and eighty tons burden and eighty-six feet and six inches long, shorter on the water line than many of our summer-sailing sloop and schooner yachts.</p><P>RICHARD HENRY DANA.</p></DIV>
139.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THE fourteenth of August<ANCHOR ID="n1-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: was the day fixed upon for the sailing of the brig Pilgrim, on her voyage from Boston, round Cape Horn, to the Western coast of North America.  As she was to get under way early in the afternoon, I made my appearance on board at twelve o'clock, in full sea-rig, with my chest, containing an outfit for a two or three years' voyage, which I had undertaken from a determination to cure, if possible, by an entire change of life, and by a long absence from books, with a plenty of hard work, plain food, and open air, a weakness of the eyes, which had obliged me to give up my studies, and which no medical aid seemed likely to remedy.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-11">[In the year 1834.]</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>The change from the tight frock-coat, silk cap, and kid gloves of an undergraduate at Harvard, to the loose duck trousers, checked shirt, and tarpaulin hat of a sailor, though somewhat of a transformation, was soon made; and I supposed that I should pass very well for a Jack tar.  But it is impossible to deceive the practised eye in these matters; and while I thought myself to be looking as salt as Neptune himself, I was, no doubt, known <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:for a landsman by every one on board as soon as I hove in sight.  A sailor has a peculiar cut to his clothes, and a way of wearing them which a green hand can never get.  The trousers, tight round the hips, and thence hanging long and loose round the feet, a superabundance of checked shirt, a low-crowned, well-varnished black hat, worn on the back of the head, with half a fathom of black ribbon hanging over the left eye, and a slip-tie to the black silk neckerchief, with sundry other minuti&aelig;, are signs, the want of which betrays the beginner at once.  Besides the points in my dress which were out of the way, doubtless my complexion and hands were quite enough to distinguish me from the regular <HI REND="italics">salt</HI>
139.sgm: who, with a sunburnt cheek, wide step, and rolling gait, swings his bronzed and toughened hands athwart-ships, half opened, as though just ready to grasp a rope.</p><P>"With all my imperfections on my head," I joined the crew, and we hauled out into the stream, and came to anchor for the night.  The next day we were employed in preparation for sea, reeving studding-sail gear, crossing royal yards, putting on chafing gear, and taking on board our powder.  On the following night, I stood my first watch.  I remained awake nearly all the first part of the night from fear that I might not hear when I was called; and when I went on deck, so great were my ideas of the importance of my trust, that I walked regularly fore and aft the whole length of the vessel, looking out over the bows and taffrail at each turn, and was not a little surprised at the coolness of the old seaman whom I called to take my place, in stowing himself snugly away under the long-boat for a nap.  That was a sufficient lookout, he thought, for a fine night, at anchor in a safe harbor.</p><P>The next morning was Saturday, and, a breeze having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:sprung up from the southward, we took a pilot on board, hove up our anchor, and began beating down the bay.  I took leave of those of my friends who came to see me off, and had barely opportunity for a last look at the city and well-known objects, as no time is allowed on board ship for sentiment.  As we drew down into the lower harbor, we found the wind ahead in the bay, and were obliged to come to anchor in the roads.  We remained there through the day and a part of the night.  My watch began at eleven o'clock at night, and I received orders to call the captain if the wind came out from the westward.  About midnight the wind became fair, and, having summoned the captain, I was ordered to call all hands.  How I accomplished this, I do not know, but I am quite sure that I did not give the true hoarse boatswain call of "A-a-ll ha-a-a-nds! up anchor, a-ho-oy!"  In a short time every one was in motion, the sails loosed, the yards braced, and we began to heave up the anchor, which was our last hold upon Yankee land.  I could take but small part in these preparations.  My little knowledge of a vessel was all at fault.  Unintelligible orders were so rapidly given, and so immediately executed; there was such a hurrying about, and such an intermingling of strange cries and stranger actions, that I was completely bewildered.  There is not so helpless and pitiable an object in the world as a landsman beginning a sailor's life.  At length those peculiar, long-drawn sounds which denote that the crew are heaving at the windlass began, and in a few minutes we were under way.  The noise of the water thrown from the bows was heard, the vessel leaned over from the damp night-breeze, and rolled with the heavy ground-swell, and we had actually begun our long, long journey.  This was literally bidding good night to my native land.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THE first day we passed at sea was Sunday.  As we were just from port, and there was a great deal to be done on board, we were kept at work all day, and at night the watches were set, and everything was put into sea order.  When we were called aft to be divided into watches, I had a good specimen of the manner of a sea-captain.  After the division had been made, he gave a short characteristic speech, walking the quarter-deck with a cigar in his mouth, and dropping the words out between the puffs.</p><P>"Now, my men, we have begun a long voyage.  If we get along well together, we shall have a comfortable time; if we don't, we shall have hell afloat.  All you have got to do is to obey your orders, and do your duty like men, --then you will fare well enough; if you don't, you will fare hard enough, --I can tell you.  If we pull together, you will find me a clever fellow; if we don't, you will find me a bloody rescal.  That's all I've got to say.  Go below, the larboard<ANCHOR ID="n2-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: watch!"</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-11">Of late years, the British and American marine, naval and mercantile, have adopted the word "port" instead of larboard, in all cases on board ship, to avoid mistake from similarity of sound.  At this time "port" was used only at the helm.</NOTE>
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139.sgm:<P>I, being in the starboard or second mate's watch, had the opportunity of keeping the first watch at sea.  Stimson, a young man making, like myself, his first voyage, was in the same watch, and as he was the son of a professional man, and had been in a merchant's counting-room in Boston, we found that we had some acquaintances and topics in common.  We talked these matters over--Boston, what our friends were probably doing, our voyage, &amp;c.--until he went to take his turn at the lookout, and left me to myself.  I had now a good opportunity for reflection.  I felt for the first time the perfect silence of the sea.  The officer was walking the quarter-deck, where I had no right to go, one or two men were talking on the forecastle, whom I had little inclination to join, so that I was left open to the full impression of everything about me.  However much I was affected by the beauty of the sea, the bright stars, and the clouds driven swiftly over them, I could not but remember that I was separating myself from all the social and intellectual enjoyments of life.  Yet, strange as it may seem, I did then and afterwards take pleasure in these reflections, hoping by them to prevent my becoming insensible to the value of what I was losing.</p><P>But all my dreams were soon put to flight by an order from the officer to trim the yards, as the wind was getting ahead; and I could plainly see by the looks the sailors occasionally cast to windward, and by the dark clouds that were fast coming up, that we had bad weather to prepare for, and I had heard the captain say that he expected to be in the Gulf Stream by twelve o'clock.  In a few minutes eight bells were struck, the watch called, and we went below.  I now began to feel the first discomforts of a sailor's life.  The steerage, in which I lived, was filled with coils of rigging, spare sails, old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:junk, and ship stores, which had not been stowed away.  Moreover, there had been no berths put up for us to sleep in, and we were not allowed to drive nails to hang our clothes upon.  The sea, too, had risen, the vessel was rolling heavily, and everything was pitched about in grand confusion.  There was a complete "hurrah's nest," as the sailors say, "everything on top and nothing at hand."  A large hawser had been coiled away on my chest; my hats, boots, mattress, and blankets had all fetched away and gone over to leeward, and were jammed and broken under the boxes and coils of rigging.  To crown all, we were allowed no light to find anything with, and I was just beginning to feel strong symptoms of sea-sickness, and that listlessness and inactivity which accompany it.  Giving up all attempts to collect my things together, I lay down on the sails, expecting every moment to hear the cry, "All hands ahoy!" which the approaching storm would make necessary.  I shortly heard the raindrops falling on deck thick and fast, and the watch evidently had their hands full of work, for I could hear the loud and repeated orders of the mate, trampling of feet, creaking of the blocks, and all the accompaniments of a coming storm.  In a few minutes the slide of the hatch was thrown back, which let down the noise and tumult of the deck still louder, the cry of "All hands ahoy! tumble up here and take in sail," saluted our ears, and the hatch was quickly shut again.  When I got upon deck, a new scene and a new experience was before me.</p><P>The little brig was close-hauled upon the wind, and lying over, as it then seemed to me, nearly upon her beam ends.  The heavy head sea was beating against her bows with the noise and force almost of a sledge-hammer, and flying over the deck, drenching us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:completely through.  The topsail halyards had been let go, and the great sails were filling out and backing against the masts with a noise like thunder; the wind was whistling through the rigging; loose ropes were flying about; loud and, to me, unintelligible orders constantly given, and rapidly executed; and the sailors "singing out" at the ropes in their hoarse and peculiar strains.</p><P>In addition to all this, I had not got my "sea legs on," was dreadfully sea-sick, with hardly strength enough to hold on to anything, and it was "pitch dark."  This was my condition when I was ordered aloft, for the first time, to reef topsails.</p><P>How I got along, I cannot now remember.  I "laid out" on the yards and held on with all my strength.  I could not have been of much service, for I remember having been sick several times before I left the topsail yard, making wild vomits into the black night, to leeward.  Soon all was snug aloft, and we were again allowed to go below.  This I did not consider much of a favor, for the confusion of everything below, and that inexpressible sickening smell, caused by the shaking up of bilge water in the hold, made the steerage but an indifferent refuge from the cold, wet decks.  I had often read of the nautical experiences of others, but I felt as though there could be none worse than mine; for, in addition to every other evil, I could not but remember that this was only the first night of a two years' voyage.  When we were on deck, we were not much better off, for we were continually ordered about by the officer, who said that it was good for us to be in motion.  Yet anything was better than the horrible state of things below.  I remember very well going to the hatchway and putting my head down, when I was oppressed by <HI REND="italics">nausea</HI>
139.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and always being relieved immediately.  It was an effectual emetic.</p><P>This state of things continued for two days.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, August 20th</HI>
139.sgm:.  We had the watch on deck from four till eight, this morning.  When we came on deck at four o'clock, we found things much changed for the better.  The sea and wind had gone down, and the stars were out bright.  I experienced a corresponding change in my feelings, yet continued extremely weak from my sickness.  I stood in the waist on the weather side, watching the gradual breaking of the day, and the first streaks of the early light.  Much has been said of the sunrise at sea; but it will not compare with the sunrise on shore.  It lacks the accompaniments of the songs of birds, the awakening hum of humanity, and the glancing of the first beams upon trees, hills, spires, and house-tops, to give it life and spirit.  There is no scenery.  But, although the actual rise of the sun at sea is not so beautiful, yet nothing will compare for melancholy and dreariness with the early breaking of day upon "Old Ocean's gray and melancholy waste."</p><P>There is something in the first gray streaks stretching along the eastern horizon and throwing an indistinct light upon the face of the deep, which combines with the boundlessness and unknown depth of the sea around, and gives one a feeling of loneliness, of dread, and of melancholy foreboding, which nothing else in nature can.  This gradually passes away as the light grows brighter, and when the sun comes up, the ordinary monotonous sea day begins.</p><P>From such reflections as these, I was aroused by the order from the officer, "Forward there! rig the head-pump!"  I found that no time was allowed for day-dreaming, but that we must "turn to" at the first light.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Having called up the "idlers," namely, carpenter, cook, and steward, and rigged the pump, we began washing down the decks.  This operation, which is performed every morning at sea, takes nearly two hours; and I had hardly strength enough to get through it.  After we had finished, swabbed down decks, and coiled up the rigging, I sat on the spars, waiting for seven bells, which was the signal for breakfast.  The officer, seeing my lazy posture, ordered me to slush the mainmast, from the royal-mast-head down.  The vessel was then rolling a little, and I had taken no food for three days, so that I felt tempted to tell him that I had rather wait till after breakfast; but I knew that I must "take the bull by the horns," and that if I showed any sign of want of spirit or backwardness, I should be ruined at once.  So I took my bucket of grease and climbed up to the royal-mast-head.  Here the rocking of the vessel, which increases the higher you go from the foot of the mast, which is the fulcrum of the lever, and the smell of the grease, which offended my fastidious senses, upset my stomach again, and I was not a little rejoiced when I had finished my job and got upon the comparative <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
139.sgm: of the deck.  In a few minutes seven bells were struck, the log hove, the watch called, and we went to breakfast.  Here I cannot but remember the advice of the cook, a simple-hearted African.  "Now," says he, "my lad, you are well cleaned out; you haven't got a drop of your 'long-shore <HI REND="italics">swash</HI>
139.sgm: aboard of you.  You must begin on a new tack, --pitch all your sweetmeats overboard, and turn to upon good hearty salt beef and ship bread, and I'll promise you, you'll have your ribs well sheathed, and be as hearty as any of 'em, afore you are up to the Horn."  This would be good advice to give to passengers, when they set their hearts on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:little niceties which they have laid in, in case of sea-sickness.</p><P>I cannot describe the change which half a pound of cold salt beef and a biscuit or two produced in me.  I was a new being.  Having a watch below until noon, so that I had some time to myself, I got a huge piece of strong, cold salt beef from the cook, and kept gnawing upon it until twelve o'clock.  When we went on deck, I felt somewhat like a man, and could begin to learn my sea duty with considerable spirit.  At about two o'clock, we heard the loud cry of "Sail ho!" from aloft, and soon saw two sails to windward, going directly athwart our hawse.  This was the first time that I had seen a sail at sea.  I thought then, and have always since, that no sight exceeds it in interest, and few in beauty.  They passed to leeward of us, and out of hailing distance; but the captain could read the names on their sterns with the glass.  They were the ship Helen Mar, of New York, and the brig Mermaid, of Boston.  They were both steering westward, and were bound in for our "dear native land."</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday, August 21st</HI>
139.sgm:.  This day the sun rose clear; we had a fine wind, and everything was bright and cheerful.  I had now got my sea legs on, and was beginning to enter upon the regular duties of a sea life.  About six bells, that is, three o'clock P.M., we saw a sail on our larboard bow.  I was very desirous, like every new sailor, to speak her.  She came down to us, backed her main-top-sail, and the two vessels stood "head on," bowing and curveting at each other like a couple of war-horses reined in by their riders.  It was the first vessel that I had seen near, and I was surprised to find how much she rolled and pitched in so quiet a sea.  She plunged her head into the sea, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:then, her stern settling gradually down, her huge bows rose up, showing the bright copper, and her stem and breasthooks dripping, like old Neptune's locks, with the brine.  Her decks were filled with passengers, who had come up at the cry of "Sail ho!" and who, by their dress and features, appeared to be Swiss and French emigrants.  She hailed us at first in French, but receiving no answer, she tried us in English.  She was the ship La Carolina, from Havre, for New York.  We desired her to report the brig Pilgrim, from Boston, for the northwest coast of America, five days out.  She then filled away and left us to plough on through our waste of waters.</p><P>There is a settled routine for hailing ships at sea: "Ship a-hoy!"  Answer, "Hulloa!"  "What ship is that, pray?"  "The ship Carolina, from Havre, bound to New York.  Where are you from?"  "The brig Pilgrim, from Boston, bound to the coast of California, five days out."  Unless there is leisure, or something special to say, this form is not much varied from.</p><P>This day ended pleasantly; we had got into regular and comfortable weather, and into that routine of sea life which is only broken by a storm, a sail, or the sight of land.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>AS we have now had a long "spell" of fine weather, without any incident to break the monotony of our lives, I may have no better place for a description of the duties, regulations, and customs of an American merchantman, of which ours was a fair specimen.</p><P>The captain, in the first place, is lord paramount.  He stands no watch, comes and goes when he pleases, is accountable to no one, and must be obeyed in everything, without a question even from his chief officer.  He has the power to turn his officers off duty, and even to break them and make them do duty as sailors in the forecastle.<ANCHOR ID="n3-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: Where there are no passengers and no supercargo, as in our vessel, he has no companion but his own dignity, and few pleasures, unless he differs from most of his kind, beyond the consciousness of possessing supreme power, and, occasionally, the exercise of it.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-11">There is a doubt of his power to do the latter.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>The prime minister, the official organ, and the active and superintending officer is the chief mate.  He is first lieutenant, boatswain, sailing-master, and quarter-master.  The captain tells him what he wishes to have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:done, and leaves to him the care of overseeing, of allotting the work, and also the responsibility of its being well done.  The mate (as he is always called, <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
139.sgm: ) also keeps the log-book, for which he is responsible to the owners and insurers, and has the charge of the stowage, safe-keeping, and delivery of the cargo.  He is also, <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
139.sgm:, the wit of the crew; for the captain does not condescend to joke with the men, and the second mate no one cares for; so that when "the mate" thinks fit to entertain "the people" with a coarse joke or a little practical wit, every one feels bound to laugh.</p><P>The second mate is proverbially a dog's berth.  He is neither officer nor man.  He is obliged to go aloft to reef and furl the topsails, and to put his hands into the tar and slush, with the rest, and the men do not much respect him as an officer.  The crew call him the "sailor's waiter," as he has to furnish them with spun-yarn, marline, and all other stuffs that they need in their work, and has charge of the boatswain's locker, which includes serving-boards, marline-spikes, &amp;c., &amp;c.  He is expected by the captain to maintain his dignity and to enforce obedience, and still is kept at a great distance from the mate, and obliged to work with the crew.  He is one to whom little is given and of whom much is required.  His wages are usually double those of a common sailor, and he eats and sleeps in the cabin; but he is obliged to be on deck nearly all his time, and eats at the second table, that is, makes a meal out of what the captain and chief mate leave.</p><P>The steward is the captain's servant, and has charge of the pantry, from which every one, even the mate himself, is excluded.  These distinctions usually find him an enemy in the mate, who does not like to have any one on board who is not entirely under his control; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:crew do not consider him as one of their number, so he is left to the mercy of the captain.</p><P>The cook, whose title is "Doctor," is the patron of the crew, and those who are in his favor can get their wet mittens and stockings dried, or light their pipes at the galley in the night-watch.  These two worthies, together with the carpenter (and sailmaker, if there be one), stand no watch, but, being employed all day, are allowed to "sleep in" at night, unless all hands are called.</p><P>The crew are divided into two divisions, as equally as may be, called the watches.  Of these, the chief mate commands the larboard, and the second mate the starboard.  They divide the time between them, being on and off duty, or, as it is called, on deck and below, every other four hours.  The three night-watches are called the first, the middle, and the morning watch.  If, for instance, the chief mate with the larboard watch have the first night-watch from eight to twelve, at that hour the starboard watch and the second mate take the deck, while the larboard watch and the first mate go below until four in the morning, when they come on deck again and remain until eight.  As the larboard watch will have been on deck eight hours out of the twelve, while the starboard watch will have been up only four hours, the former have what is called a "forenoon watch below," that is, from eight A.M. till twelve M.  In a man-of-war, and in some merchantmen, this alternation of watches is kept up throughout the twenty-four hours, which is called having "watch and watch"; but our ship, like most merchantmen, had "all hands" from twelve o'clock till dark, except in very bad weather, when we were allowed "watch and watch."</p><P>An explanation of the "dog-watches" may, perhaps, be necessary to one who has never been at sea.  Their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:purpose is to shift the watches each night, so that the same watch shall not be on deck at the same hours throughout a voyage.  In order to effect this, the watch from four to eight P.M. is divided into two half-watches, one from four to six, and the other from six to eight.  By this means they divide the twenty-four hours into seven watches instead of six, and thus shift the hours every night.  As the dog-watches come during twilight, after the day's work is done, and before the night-watch is set, they are the watches in which everybody is on deck.  The captain is up, walking on the weather side of the quarter-deck, the chief mate on the lee side, and the second mate about the weather gangway.  The steward has finished his work in the cabin, and has come up to smoke his pipe with the cook in the galley.  The crew are sitting on the windlass or lying on the forecastle, smoking, singing, or telling long yarns.  At eight o'clock eight bells are struck, the log is hove, the watch set, the wheel relieved, the galley shut up, and the watch off duty goes below.</p><P>The morning begins with the watch on deck's "turning to" at daybreak and washing down, scrubbing, and swabbing the decks.  This, together with filling the "scuttled butt" with fresh water, and coiling up the rigging, usually occupies the time until seven bells (half after seven), when all hands get breakfast.  At eight the day's work begins, and lasts until sundown, with the exception of an hour for dinner.</p><P>Before I end my explanations, it may be well to define a <HI REND="italics">day's work</HI>
139.sgm:, and to correct a mistake prevalent among landsmen about a sailor's life.  Nothing is more common than to hear people say, "Are not sailors very idle at sea?  What can they find to do?"  This is a natural mistake, and, being frequently made, is one which every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:sailor feels interested in having corrected.  In the first place, then, the discipline of the ship requires every man to be at work upon <HI REND="italics">something</HI>
139.sgm: when he is on deck, except at night and on Sundays.  At all other times you will never see a man, on board a well-ordered vessel, standing idle on deck, sitting down, or leaning over the side.  It is the officers' duty to keep every one at work, even if there is nothing to be done but to scrape the rust from the chain cables.  In no state prison are the convicts more regularly set to work, and more closely watched.  No conversation is allowed among the crew at their duty, and though they frequently do talk when aloft, or when near one another, yet they stop when an officer is nigh.</p><P>With regard to the work upon which the men are put, it is a matter which probably would not be understood by one who has not been at sea.  When I first left port, and found that we were kept regularly employed for a week or two, I supposed that we were getting the vessel into sea trim, and that it would soon be over, and we should have nothing to do but to sail the ship; but I found that it continued so for two years, and at the end of the two years there was as much to be done as ever.  As has often been said, a ship is like a lady's watch, always out of repair.  When first leaving port, studding-sail gear is to be rove, all the running rigging to be examined, that which is unfit for use to be got down, and new rigging rove in its place; then the standing rigging is to be overhauled, replaced, and repaired in a thousand different ways; and wherever any of the numberless ropes or the yards are chafing or wearing upon it, there "chafing gear," as it is called, must be put on.  This chafing gear consists of worming, parcelling, roundings, battens, and service of all kinds, --rope-yarns, spun-yarn, marline, and seizing-stuffs.  Taking off, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:putting on, and mending the chafing gear alone, upon a vessel, would find constant employment for a man or two men, during working hours, for a whole voyage.</p><P>The next point to be considered is, that all the "small stuffs" which are used on board a ship--such as spun-yarn, marline, seizing-stuff, &amp;c., &amp;c.--are made on board.  The owners of a vessel buy up incredible quantities of "old junk," which the sailors unlay, and, after drawing out the yarns, knot them together, and roll them up in balls.  These "rope-yarns" are constantly used for various purposes, but the greater part is manufactured into spun-yarn.  For this purpose, every vessel is furnished with a "spun-yarn winch"; which is very simple, consisting of a wheel and spindle.  This may be heard constantly going on deck in pleasant weather; and we had employment, during a great part of the time, for three hands, in drawing and knotting yarns, and making spun-yarn.</p><P>Another method of employing the crew is "setting-up" rigging.  Whenever any of the standing rigging becomes slack (which is continually happening), the seizings and coverings must be taken off, tackles got up, and, after the rigging is bowsed well taut, the seizings and coverings be replaced, which is a very nice piece of work.  There is also such a connection between different parts of a vessel, that one rope can seldom be touched without requiring a change in another.  You cannot stay a mast aft by the back stays, without slacking up the head stays, &amp;c., &amp;c.  If we add to this all the tarring, greasing, oiling, varnishing, painting, scraping, and scrubbing which is required in the course of a long voyage, and also remember this is all to be done in <HI REND="italics">addition to</HI>
139.sgm: watching at night, steering, reefing, furling, bracing, making and setting sail, and pulling, hauling, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:climbing in every direction, one will hardly ask, "What can a sailor find to do at sea?"</p><P>If, after all this labor, --after exposing their lives and limbs in storms, wet and cold, -- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Wherein the cub-drawn bear would couch<LB>The lion and the belly-pinched wolf<LB>Keep their furs dry," --</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>the merchants and captains think that the sailors have not earned their twelve dollars a month (out of which they clothe themselves), and their salt beef and hard bread, they keep them picking oakum-- <HI REND="italics">ad infinitum</HI>
139.sgm:.  This is the usual resource upon a rainy day, for then it will not do to work upon rigging; and when it is pouring down in floods, instead of letting the sailors stand about in sheltered places, and talk, and keep themselves comfortable, they are separated to different parts of the ship and kept at work picking oakum.  I have seen oakum stuff placed about in different parts of the ship, so that the sailors might not be idle in the snatches between the frequent squalls upon crossing the equator.  Some officers have been so driven to find work for the crew in a ship ready for sea, that they have set them to pounding the anchors (often done) and scraping the chain cables.  The "Philadelphia Catechism" is <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Six days shalt thou labor and do all thou art able,<LB>And on the seventh, --holystone the decks and scrape the cable."</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>This kind of work, of course, is not kept up off Cape Horn, Cape of Good Hope, and in extreme north and south latitudes; but I have seen the decks washed down and scrubbed when the water would have frozen if it had been fresh, and all hands kept at work upon the rigging, when we had on our pea-jackets, and our hands so numb that we could hardly hold our marline-spikes.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>I have here gone out of my narrative course in order that any who read this may, at the start, form as correct an idea of a sailor's life and duty as possible.  I have done it in this place because, for some time, our life was nothing but the unvarying repetition of these duties, which can be better described together.  Before leaving this description, however, I would state, in order to show landsmen how little they know of the nature of a ship, that a ship-carpenter is kept constantly employed, during good weather, on board vessels which are in what is called perfect sea order.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>AFTER speaking the Carolina, on the 21st of August, nothing occurred to break the monotony of our life until--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, September 5th</HI>
139.sgm:, when we saw a sail on our weather (starboard) beam.  She proved to be a brig under English colors, and, passing under our stern, reported herself as forty-nine days from Buenos Ayres, bound to Liverpool.  Before she had passed us, "Sail ho!" was cried again, and we made another sail, broad on our weather bow, and steering athwart our hawse.  She passed out of hail, but we made her out to be an hermaphrodite brig, with Brazilian colors in her main rigging.  By her course, she must have been bound from Brazil to the south of Europe, probably Portugal.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, September 7th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Fell in with the northeast trade-winds.  This morning we caught our first dolphin, which I was very eager to see.  I was disappointed in the colors of this fish when dying.  They were certainly very beautiful, but not equal to what has been said of them.  They are too indistinct.  To do the fish justice, there is nothing more beautiful than the dolphin when swimming a few feet below the surface, on a bright day.  It is the most elegantly formed, and also the quickest, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:fish in salt water; and the rays of the sun striking upon it, in its rapid and changing motions, reflected from the water, make it look like a stray beam from a rainbow.</p><P>This day was spent like all pleasant Sundays at sea.  The decks are washed down, the rigging coiled up, and everything put in order; and, throughout the day, only one watch is kept on deck at a time.  The men are all dressed in their best white duck trousers, and red or checked shirts, and have nothing to do but to make the necessary changes in the sails.  They employ themselves in reading, talking, smoking, and mending their clothes.  If the weather is pleasant, they bring their work and their books upon deck, and sit down upon the forecastle and windlass.  This is the only day on which these privileges are allowed them.  When Monday comes, they put on their tarry trousers again, and prepare for six days of labor.</p><P>To enhance the value of Sunday to the crew, they are allowed on that day a pudding, or, as it is called, a "duff."  This is nothing more than flour boiled with water, and eaten with molasses.  It is very heavy, dark, and clammy, yet it is looked upon as a luxury, and really forms an agreeable variety with salt beef and pork.  Many a rascally captain has made up with his crew, for hard usage, by allowing them duff twice a week on the passage home.</p><P>On board some vessels Sunday is made a day of instruction and of religious exercises; but we had a crew of swearers, from the captain to the smallest boy; and a day of rest, and of something like quiet, social enjoyment, was all that we could expect.</p><P>We continued running large before the northeast tradewinds for several days, until Monday-- <HI REND="italics">September 22d</HI>
139.sgm:, when, upon coming on deck at seven <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:bells in the morning, we found the other watch aloft throwing water upon the sails; and, looking astern, we saw a small clipper-built brig with a black hull heading directly after us.  We went to work immediately, and put all the canvas upon the brig which we could get upon her, rigging out oars for extra studding-sail yards, and continued wetting down the sails by buckets of water whipped up to the mast-head, until about nine o'clock, when there came on a drizzling rain.  The vessel continued in pursuit, changing her course as we changed ours, to keep before the wind.  The captain, who watched her with his glass, said that she was armed, and full of men, and showed no colors.  We continued running dead before the wind, knowing that we sailed better so, and that clippers are fastest on the wind.  We had also another advantage.  The wind was light, and we spread more canvas than she did, having royals and sky-sails fore and aft, and ten studding-sails; while she, being an hermaphrodite brig, had only a gaff topsail aft.  Early in the morning she was overhauling us a little, but after the rain came on and the wind grew lighter, we began to leave her astern.  All hands remained on deck throughout the day, and we got our fire-arms in order; but we were too few to have done anything with her, if she had proved to be what we feared.  Fortunately there was no moon, and the night which followed was exceedingly dark, so that, by putting out all the lights on board and altering our course four points, we hoped to get out of her reach.  We removed the light in the binnacle, and steered by the stars, and kept perfect silence through the night.  At daybreak there was no sign of anything in the horizon, and we kept the vessel off to her course.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, October 1st</HI>
139.sgm:.  Crossed the equator in lon. 24&deg; 24' W.  I now, for the first time, felt at liberty, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:according to the old usage, to call myself a son of Neptune, and was very glad to be able to claim the title without the disagreeable initiation which so many have to go through.  After once crossing the line, you can never be subjected to the process, but are considered as a son of Neptune, with full powers to play tricks upon others.  This ancient custom is now seldom allowed, unless there are passengers on board, in which case there is always a good deal of sport.</p><P>It had been obvious to all hands for some time that the second mate, whose name was Foster, was an idle, careless fellow, and not much of a sailor, and that the captain was exceedingly dissatisfied with him.  The power of the captain in these cases was well known, and we all anticipated a difficulty.  Foster (called <HI REND="italics">Mr.</HI>
139.sgm: by virtue of his office) was but half a sailor, having always been short voyages, and remained at home a long time between them.  His father was a man of some property, and intended to have given his son a liberal education; but he, being idle and worthless, was sent off to sea, and succeeded no better there; for, unlike many scamps, he had none of the qualities of a sailor,--he was "not of the stuff that they make sailors of."  He used to hold long yarns with the crew, and talk against the captain, and play with the boys, and relax discipline in every way.  This kind of conduct always makes the captain suspicious, and is never pleasant, in the end, to the men; they preferring to have an officer active, vigilant, and distant as may be with kindness.  Among other bad practices, he frequently slept on his watch, and, having been discovered asleep by the captain, he was told that he would be turned off duty if he did it again.  To prevent his sleeping on deck, the hencoops were ordered to be knocked up, for the captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:never sat down on deck himself, and never permitted an officer to do so.</p><P>The second night after crossing the equator, we had the watch from eight till twelve, and it was "my helm" for the last two hours.  There had been light squalls through the night, and the captain told Mr. Foster, who commanded our watch, to keep a bright lookout.  Soon after I came to the helm, I found that he was quite drowsy, and at last he stretched himself on the companion and went fast asleep.  Soon afterwards the captain came softly on deck, and stood by me for some time looking at the compass.  The officer at length became aware of the captain's presence, but, pretending not to know it, began humming and whistling to himself, to show that he was not asleep, and went forward, without looking behind him, and ordered the main royal to be loosed.  On turning round to come aft, he pretended surprise at seeing the master on deck.  This would not do.  The captain was too "wide awake" for him, and, beginning upon him at once, gave him a grand blow-up, in true nautical style: "You're a lazy, good-for-nothing rascal; you're neither man, boy, <HI REND="italics">soger</HI>
139.sgm:, nor sailor! you're no more than a <HI REND="italics">thing</HI>
139.sgm: aboard a vessel! you don't earn your salt! you're worse than a <HI REND="italics">Mahon soger!"</HI>
139.sgm: "and other still more choice extracts from the sailor's vocabulary.  After the poor fellow had taken this harangue, he was sent into his state-room, and the captain stood the rest of the watch himself.</p><P>At seven bells in the morning, all hands were called aft, and told that Foster was no longer an officer on board, and that we might choose one of our own number for second mate.  It is not uncommon for the captain to make this offer, and it is good policy, for the crew think themselves the choosers, and are flattered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:by it, but have to obey, nevertheless.  Our crew, as is usual, refused to take the responsibility of choosing a man of whom we would never be able to complain, and left it to the captain.  He picked out an active and intelligent young sailor, born on the banks of the Kennebec, who had been several Canton voyages, and proclaimed him in the following manner: "I choose Jim Hall; he's your second mate.  All you've got to do is, to obey him as you would me; and remember that he is <HI REND="italics">Mr.</HI>
139.sgm: Hall."  Foster went forward into the forecastle as a common sailor, and lost <HI REND="italics">the handle to his name</HI>
139.sgm:, while young fore-mast Jim became Mr. Hall, and took up his quarters in the land of knives and forks and tea-cups.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, October 5th</HI>
139.sgm:.  It was our morning watch; when, soon after the day began to break, a man on the forecastle called out, "Land ho!"  I had never heard the cry before, and did not know what it meant (and few would suspect what the words were, when hearing the strange sound for the first time); but I soon found, by the direction of all eyes, that there was land stretching along on our weather beam.  We immediately took in studding-sails and hauled our wind, running in for the land.  This was done to determine our longitude; for by the captain's chronometer we were in 25&deg; W., but by his observations we were much farther; and he had been for some time in doubt whether it was his chronometer or his sextant which was out of order.  This land-fall settled the matter, and the former instrument was condemned, and, becoming still worse, was never afterwards used.</p><P>As we ran in towards the coast, we found that we were directly off the port of Pernambuco, and could see with the telescope the roofs of the houses, and one large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:church, and the town of Olinda.  We ran along by the mouth of the harbor, and saw a full-rigged brig going in.  At two P.M. we again stood out to sea, leaving the land on our quarter, and at sundown it was out of sight.  It was here that I first saw one of those singular things called catmarans.  They are composed of logs lashed together upon the water, the men sitting with their feet in the water; have one large sail, are quite fast, and, strange as it may seem, are trusted as good sea boats.  We saw several, with from one to three men in each, boldly putting out to sea, after it had become almost dark.  The Indians go out in them after fish, and as the weather is regular in certain seasons, they have no fear.  After taking a new departure from Olinda, we kept off on our way to Cape Horn.</p><P>We met with nothing remarkable until we were in the latitude of the river La Plata.  Here there are violent gales from the southwest, called Pamperos, which are very destructive to the shipping in the river, and are felt for many leagues at sea.  They are usually preceded by lightning.  The captain told the mates to keep a bright lookout, and if they saw lightning at the southwest, to take in sail at once.  We got the first touch of one during my watch on deck.  I was walking in the lee gangway, and thought that I saw lightning on the lee bow.  I told the second mate, who came over and looked out for some time.  It was very black in the southwest, and in about ten minutes we saw a distinct flash.  The wind, which had been southeast, had now left us, and it was dead calm.  We sprang aloft immediately and furled the royals and top-gallant-sails, and took in the flying jib, hauled up the mainsail and trysail, squared the after yards, and awaited the attack.  A huge mist capped with black clouds came driving towards us, extending <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:over that portion of the horizon, and covering the stars, which shone brightly in the other part of the heavens.  It came upon us at once with a blast, and a shower of hail and rain, which almost took our breath from us.  The hardiest was obliged to turn his back.  We let the halyards run, and fortunately were not taken aback.  The little vessel "paid off" from the wind, and ran on for some time directly before it, tearing through the water with everything flying.  Having called all hands, we close-reefed the topsails and trysail, furled the courses and jib, set the fore-topmast staysail, and brought her up nearly to her course, with the weather braces hauled in a little, to ease her.</p><P>This was the first blow I had met, which could really be called a gale.  We had reefed our topsails in the Gulf Stream, and I thought it something serious, but an older sailor would have thought nothing of it.  As I had now become used to the vessel and to my duty, I was of some service on a yard, and could knot my reef-point as well as anybody.  I obeyed the order to lay<ANCHOR ID="n4-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: aloft with the rest, and found the reefing a very exciting scene; for one watch reefed the fore-topsail, and the other the main, and every one did his utmost to get his topsail hoisted first.  We had a great advantage over the larboard watch, because the chief mate never goes aloft, while our while our new second mate used to jump into the rigging as soon as we began to haul out the reef-tackle, and have the weather earing passed before there was a man upon the yard.  In this way we were almost always <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:able to raise the cry of "Haul out to leeward" before them; and, having knotted our points, would slide down the shrouds and back-stays, and sing out at the topsail halyards, to let it be known that we were ahead of them.  Reefing is the most exciting part of a sailor's duty.  All hands are engaged upon it, and after the halyards are let go, there is no time to be lost, --no "sogering," or hanging back, then.  If one is not quick enough, another runs over him.  The first on the yard goes to the weather earing, the second to the lee, and the next two to the "dog's ears"; while the others lay along into the bunt, just giving each other elbow-room.  In reefing, the yard-arms (the extremes of the yards) are the posts of honor; but in furling, the strongest and most experienced stand in the slings (or middle of the yard) to make up the bunt.  If the second mate is a smart fellow, he will never let any one take either of these posts from him; but if he is wanting either in seamanship, strength, or activity, some better man will get the bunt and earings from him, which immediately brings him into disrepute.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-11">This word "lay," which is in such general use on board ship, being used in giving orders instead of "go," as " <HI REND="italics">Lay</HI>
139.sgm: forward!" " <HI REND="italics">Lay</HI>
139.sgm: aft!" <HI REND="italics">Lay</HI>
139.sgm: aloft!" &amp;c., I do not understand to be the neuter verb <HI REND="italics">lie</HI>
139.sgm:, mispronounced, but to be the active verb <HI REND="italics">lay</HI>
139.sgm:, with the objective case understood; as, Lay <HI REND="italics">yourselves</HI>
139.sgm: forward!" "Lay <HI REND="italics">yourselves</HI>
139.sgm: aft!" &amp;c.  At all events, <HI REND="italics">lay</HI>
139.sgm: is an active verb at sea, and means <HI REND="italics">go</HI>
139.sgm:<P>We remained for the rest of the night, and throughout the next day, under the same close sail, for it continued to blow very fresh; and though we had no more hail, yet there was a soaking rain, and it was quite cold and uncomfortable; the more so, because we were not prepared for cold weather, but had on our thin clothes.  We were glad to get a watch below, and put on our thick clothing, boots, and southwesters.  Towards sundown the gale moderated a little, and it began to clear off in the southwest.  We shook our reefs out, one by one, and before midnight had top-gallant sails upon her.</p><P>We had now made up our minds for Cape Horn and cold weather, and entered upon the necessary preparations.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, November 4th</HI>
139.sgm:.  At daybreak, saw land upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:our larboard quarter.  There were two islands, of different size, but of the same shape; rather high, beginning low at the water's edge, and running with a curved ascent to the middle.  They were so far off as to be of a deep blue color, and in a few hours we sank them in the northeast.  These were the Falkland Islands.  We had run between them and the main land of Patagonia.  At sunset, the second mate, who was at the mast-head, said that he saw land on the starboard bow.  This must have been the island of Staten Land; and we were now in the region of Cape Horn, with a fine breeze from the northward, topmast and top-gallant studding-sails set, and every prospect of a speedy and pleasant passage round.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, <HI REND="italics">November 5th</HI>
139.sgm:.  The weather was fine during the previous night, and we had a clear view of the Magellan Clouds and of the Southern Cross.  The Magellan Clouds consist of three small nebul&aelig; in the southern part of the heavens, --two bright, like the milky-way, and one dark.  They are first seen, just above the horizon, soon after crossing the southern tropic.  The Southern Cross begins to be seen at 18&deg; N., and, when off Cape Horn, is nearly overhead.  It is composed of four stars in that form, and is one of the brightest constellations in the heavens.</p><P>During the first part of this day (Wednesday) the wind was light, but after noon it came on fresh, and we furled the royals.  We still kept the studding-sails out, and the captain said he should go round with them if he could.  Just before eight o'clock (then about sundown, in that latitude) the cry of "All hands ahoy!" was sounded down the fore scuttle and the after hatchway, and, hurrying upon deck, we found a large black cloud rolling on toward us from the southwest, and darkening the whole heavens.  "Here comes Cape Horn!" said the chief mate; and we had hardly time to haul down and clew up before it was upon us.  In a few minutes a heavier sea was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:raised than I had ever seen, and as it was directly ahead, the little brig, which was no better than a bathing-machine, plunged into it, and all the forward part of her was under water; the sea pouring in through the bow-ports and hawse-holes and over the knight-heads, threatening to wash everything overboard.  In the lee scuppers it was up to a man's waist.  We sprang aloft and double-reefed the topsails, and furled the other sails, and made all snug.  But this would not do; the brig was laboring and straining against the head sea, and the gale was growing worse and worse.  At the same time sleet and hail were driving with all fury against us.  We clewed down, and hauled out the reef-tackles again, and close-reefed the fore-topsail, and furled the main, and hove her to, on the starboard tack.  Here was an end to our fine prospects.  We made up our minds to head winds and cold weather; sent down the royal yards, and unrove the gear; but all the rest of the top hamper remained aloft, even to the sky-sail masts and studding-sail booms.</p><P>Throughout the night it stormed violently, --rain, hail, snow, and sleet beating upon the vessel, --the wind continuing ahead, and the sea running high.  At daybreak (about three A.M.) the deck was covered with snow.  The captain sent up the steward with a glass of grog to each of the watch; and all the time that we were off the Cape, grog was given to the morning watch, and to all hands whenever we reefed topsails.  The clouds cleared away at sunrise, and, the wind becoming more fair, we again made sail and stood nearly up to our course.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday, November 6th</HI>
139.sgm:.  It continued more pleasant through the first part of the day, but at night we had the same scene over again.  This time we did not heave to, as on the night before, but endeavored to beat to windward under close-reefed topsails, balance-reefed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:try-sail, and fore top-mast staysail.  This night it was my turn to steer, or, as the sailors say, my <HI REND="italics">trick</HI>
139.sgm: at the helm, for two hours.  Inexperienced as I was, I made out to steer to the satisfaction of the officer, and neither Stimson nor I gave up our tricks, all the time that we were off the Cape.  This was something to boast of, for it requires a good deal of skill and watchfulness to steer a vessel close hauled, in a gale of wind, against a heavy head sea.  "Ease her when she pitches," is the word; and a little carelessness in letting her ship a heavy sea might sweep the decks, or take a mast out of her.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, November 7th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Towards morning the wind went down, and during the whole forenoon we lay tossing about in a dead calm, and in the midst of a thick fog.  The calms here are unlike those in most parts of the world, for here there is generally so high a sea running, with periods of calm so short that it has no time to go down; and vessels, being under no command of sails or rudder, lie like logs upon the water.  We were obliged to steady the booms and yards by guys and braces, and to lash everything well below.  We now found our top hamper of some use, for though it is liable to be carried away or sprung by the sudden "bringing up" of a vessel when pitching in a chopping sea, yet it is a great help in steadying a vessel when rolling in a long swell, --giving more slowness, ease, and regularity to the motion.</p><P>The calm of the morning reminds me of a scene which I forgot to describe at the time of its occurrence, but which I remember from its being the first time that I had heard the near breathing of whales.  It was on the night that we passed between the Falkland Islands and Staten Land.  We had the watch from twelve to four, and, coming upon deck, found the little brig lying perfectly still, enclosed in a thick fog, and the sea as smooth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:as though oil had been poured upon it; yet now and then a long, low swell rolling under its surface, slightly lifting the vessel, but without breaking the glassy smoothness of the water.  We were surrounded far and near by shoals of sluggish whales and grampuses, which the fog prevented our seeing, rising slowly to the surface, or perhaps lying out at length, heaving out those lazy, deep, and long-drawn breathings which give such an impression of supineness and strength.  Some of the watch were asleep, and the others were quiet, so that there was nothing to break the illusion, and I stood leaning over the bulwarks, listening to the slow breathings of the mighty creatures, --now one breaking the water just alongside, whose black body I almost fancied that I could see through the fog; and again another, which I could just hear in the distance, --until the low and regular swell seemed like the heaving of the ocean's mighty bosom to the sound of its own heavy and long-drawn respirations.</p><P>Towards the evening of this day (Friday, 7th) the fog cleared off, and we had every appearance of a cold blow; and soon after sundown it came on.  Again it was clew up and haul down, reef and furl, until we had got her down to close-reefed topsails, double-reefed try-sail, and reefed fore spenser.  Snow, hail, and sleet were driving upon us most of the night, and the sea was breaking over the bows and covering the forward part of the little vessel; but, as she would lay her course, the captain refused to heave her to.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, November 8th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This day began with calm and thick fog, and ended with hail, snow, a violent wind, and close-reefed topsails.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, November 9th</HI>
139.sgm:.  To-day the sun rose clear and continued so until twelve o'clock, when the captain got an observation.  This was very well for Cape Horn, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:we thought it a little remarkable that, as we had not had one unpleasant Sunday during the whole voyage, the only tolerable day here should be a Sunday.  We got time to clear up the steerage and forecastle, and set things to rights, and to overhaul our wet clothes a little.  But this did not last very long.  Between five and six--the sun was then nearly three hours high--the cry of "All Star-bowlines<ANCHOR ID="n5-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: ahoy!" summoned our watch on deck, and immediately all hands were called.  A true specimen of Cape Horn was coming upon us.  A great cloud of a dark slate-color was driving on us from the southwest; and we did our best to take in sail (for the light sails had been set during the first part of the day) before we were in the midst of it.  We had got the light sails furled, the courses hauled up, and the topsail reef-tackles hauled out, and were just mounting the fore-rigging when the storm struck us.  In an instant the sea, which had been comparatively quiet, was running higher and higher; and it became almost as dark as night.  The hail and sleet were harder than I had yet felt them; seeming almost to pin us down to the rigging.  We were longer taking in sail than ever before; for the sails were stiff and wet, the ropes and rigging covered with snow and sleet, and we ourselves cold and nearly blinded with the violence of the storm.  By the time we had got down upon deck again, the little brig was plunging madly into a tremendous head sea, which at every drive rushed in through the bow-ports and over the bows, and buried all the forward part of the vessel.  At this instant the chief mate, who was standing on the top of the windlass, at the foot of the spenser-mast, called out, "Lay out there and furl the jib!"  This was no agreeable or safe duty, yet it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:must be done.  John, a Swede (the best sailor on board), who belonged on the forecastle, sprang out upon the bowsprit.  Another one must go.  It was a clear case of holding back.  I was near the mate, but sprang past several, threw the downhaul over the windlass, and jumped between the knight-heads out upon the bowsprit.  The crew stood abaft the windlass and hauled the jib down, while John and I got out upon the weather side of the jib-boom, our feet on the foot-ropes, holding on by the spar, the great jib flying off to leeward and <HI REND="italics">slatting</HI>
139.sgm: so as almost to throw us off the boom.  For some time we could do nothing but hold on, and the vessel, diving into two huge seas, one after the other, plunged us twice into the water up to our chins.  We hardly knew whether we were on or off; when, the boom lifting us up dripping from the water, we were raised high into the air and then plunged below again.  John thought the boom would go every moment, and called out to the mate to keep the vessel off, and haul down the staysail; but the fury of the wind and the breaking of the seas against the bows defied every attempt to make ourselves heard, and we were obliged to do the best we could in our situation.  Fortunately no other seas so heavy struck her, and we succeeded in furling the jib "after a fashion"; and, coming in over the staysail nettings, were not a little pleased to find that all was snug, and the watch gone below; for we were soaked through, and it was very cold.  John admitted that it had been a post of danger, which good sailors seldom do when the thing is over.  The weather continued nearly the same through the night.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-11">It is the fashion to call the respective watches Starbowlines and Larbowlines.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monday, November 10th</HI>
139.sgm:.  During a part of this day we were hove to, but the rest of the time were driving on, under close-reefed sails, with a heavy sea, a strong gale, and frequent squalls of hail and snow.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, November 11th</HI>
139.sgm:.  The same.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday</HI>
139.sgm:.  The same.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday</HI>
139.sgm:.  The same.</p><P>We had now got hardened to Cape weather, the vessel was under reduced sail, and everything secured on deck and below, so that we had little to do but to steer and to stand our watch.  Our clothes were all wet through, and the only change was from wet to more wet.  There is no fire in the forecastle, and we cannot dry clothes at the galley.  It was in vain to think of reading or working below, for we were too tired, the hatchways were closed down, and everything was wet and uncomfortable, black and dirty, heaving and pitching.  We had only to come below when the watch was out, wring our wet clothes, hang them up to chafe against the bulkheads, and turn in and sleep as soundly as we could, until our watch was called again.  A sailor can sleep anywhere, --no sound of wind, water, canvas, rope, wood, or iron can keep him awake, --and we were always fast asleep when three blows on the hatchway, and the unwelcome cry of "All Starbowlines ahoy! eight bells there below! do you hear the news?" (the usual formula of calling the watch) roused us up from our berths upon the cold, wet decks.  The only time when we could be said to take any pleasure was at night and morning, when we were allowed a tin pot full of hot tea (or, as the sailors significantly call it, "water bewitched") sweetened with molasses.  This, bad as it was, was still warm and comforting, and, together with our sea biscuit and cold salt beef, made a meal.  Yet even this meal was attended with some uncertainty.  We had to go ourselves to the galley and take our kid of beef and tin pots of tea, and run the risk of losing them before we could get below.  Many a kid of beef have I seen rolling in the scuppers, and the bearer lying at his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:length on the decks.  I remember an English lad who was the life of the crew--whom we afterwards lost overboard--standing for nearly ten minutes at the galley, with his pot of tea in his hand, waiting for a chance to get down into the forecastle; and, seeing what he thought was a "smooth spell," started to go forward.  He had just got to the end of the windlass, when a great sea broke over the bows, and for a moment I saw nothing of him but his head and shoulders; and at the next instant, being taken off his legs, he was carried aft with the sea, until her stern lifting up, and sending the water forward, he was left high and dry at the side of the long-boat, still holding on to his tin pot, which had now nothing in it but salt water.  But nothing could ever daunt him, or overcome, for a moment, his habitual good-humor.  Regaining his legs, and shaking his fist at the man at the wheel, he rolled below, saying, as he passed, "A man's no sailor, if he can't take a joke."  The ducking was not the worst of such an affair, for, as there was an allowance of tea, you could get no more from the galley; and though the others would never suffer a man to go without, but would always turn in a little from their own pots to fill up his, yet this was at best but dividing the loss among all hands.</p><P>Something of the same kind befell me a few days after.  The cook had just made for us a mess of hot "scouse,"--that is, biscuit pounded fine, salt beef cut into small pieces, and a few potatoes, boiled up together and seasoned with pepper.  This was a rare treat, and I, being the last at the galley, had it put in my charge to carry down for the mess.  I got along very well as far as the hatchway, and was just going down the steps, when a heavy sea, lifting the stern out of water, and, passing forward, dropping it again, threw the steps from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:their place, and I came down into the steerage a little faster than I meant to, with the kid on top of me, and the whole precious mess scattered over the floor.  Whatever your feelings may be, you must make a joke of everything at sea; and if you were to fall from aloft and be caught in the belly of a sail, and thus saved from instant death, it would not do to look at all disturbed, or to treat it as a serious matter.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, November 14th</HI>
139.sgm:.  We were now well to the westward of the Cape, and were changing our course to northward as much as we dared, since the strong southwest winds, which prevailed then, carried us in towards Patagonia.  At two P.M. we saw a sail on our larboard beam, and at four we made it out to be a large ship, steering our course, under single-reefed topsails.  We at that time had shaken the reefs out of our topsails, as the wind was lighter, and set the main top-gallant sail.  As soon as our captain saw what sail she was under, he set the fore top-gallant sail and flying jib; and the old whaler--for such his boats and short sail showed him to be--felt a little ashamed, and shook the reefs out of his top-sails, but could do no more, for he had sent down his top-gallant masts off the Cape.  He ran down for us, and answered our hail as the whale-ship New England, of Poughkeepsie, one hundred and twenty days from New York.  Our captain gave our name, and added, ninety-two days from Boston.  They then had a little conversation about longitude, in which they found that they could not agree.  The ship fell astern, and continued in sight during the night.  Toward morning, the wind having become light, we crossed our royal and skysail yards, and at daylight we were seen under a cloud of sail, having royals and skysails fore and aft.  The "spouter," as the sailors call a whaleman, had sent up his main top-gallant mast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and set the sail, and made signal for us to heave to.  About half past seven their whale-boat came alongside, and Captain Job Terry sprang on board, a man known in every port and by every vessel in the Pacific Ocean.  "Don't you know Job Terry?  I thought everybody knew Job Terry," said a green hand, who came in the boat, to me, when I asked him about his captain.  He was indeed a singular man.  He was six feet high, wore thick cowhide boots, and brown coat and trousers, and, except a sunburnt complexion, had not the slightest appearance of a sailor; yet he had been forty years in the whale-trade, and, as he said himself, had owned ships, built ships, and sailed ships.  His boat's crew were a pretty raw set, just out of the bush, and, as the sailor's phrase is, "hadn't got the hayseed out of their hair."  Captain Terry convinced our captain that our reckoning was a little out, and, having spent the day on board, put off in his boat at sunset for his ship, which was now six or eight miles astern.  He began a "yarn" when he came aboard, which lasted, with but little intermission, for four hours.  It was all about himself, and the Peruvian government, and the Dublin frigate, and her captain, Lord James Townshend, and President Jackson, and the ship Ann M'Kim, of Baltimore.  It would probably never have come to an end, had not a good breeze sprung up, which sent him off to his own vessel.  One of the lads who came in his boat, a thoroughly countrified-looking fellow, seemed to care very little about the vessel, rigging, or anything else, but went round looking at the live stock, and leaned over the pigsty, and said he wished he was back again tending his father's pigs.</p><P>A curious case of dignity occurred here.  It seems that in a whale-ship there is an intermediate class, called boat-steerers.  One of them came in Captain Terry's boat, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:we thought he was cockswain of the boat, and a cockswain is only a sailor.  In the whaler, the boat-steerers are between the officers and crew, a sort of petty officers; keep by themselves in the waist, sleep amidships, and eat by themselves, either at a separate table, or at the cabin table, after the captain and mates are done.  Of all this hierarchy we were entirely ignorant, so the poor boat-steerer was left to himself.  The second mate would not notice him, and seemed surprised at his keeping amidships, but his pride of office would not allow him to go forward.  With dinner-time came the <HI REND="italics">experimentum crucis</HI>
139.sgm:.  What would he do?  The second mate went to the second table without asking him.  There was nothing for him but famine or humiliation.  We asked him into the forecastle, but he faintly declined.  The whale-boat's crew explained it to us, and we asked him again.  Hunger got the victory over pride of rank, and his boat-steering majesty had to take his grub out of our kid, and eat with his jack-knife.  Yet the man was ill at ease all the time, was sparing of his conversation, and kept up the notion of a condescension under stress of circumstances.  One would say that, instead of a tendency to equality in human beings, the tendency is to make the most of inequalities, natural or artificial.</p><P>At eight o'clock we altered our course to the northward, bound for Juan Fernandez.</p><P>This day we saw the last of the albatrosses, which had been our companions a great part of the time off the Cape.  I had been interested in the bird from descriptions, and Coleridge's poem, and was not at all disappointed.  We caught one or two with a baited hook which we floated astern upon a shingle.  Their long, flapping wings, long legs, and large, staring eyes, give them a very peculiar appearance.  They look well on the wing; but one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:finest sights that I have ever seen was an albatross asleep upon the water, during a calm, off Cape Horn, when a heavy sea was running.  There being no breeze, the surface of the water was unbroken, but a long, heavy swell was rolling, and we saw the fellow, all white, directly ahead of us, asleep upon the waves, with his head under his wing; now rising on the top of one of the big billows, and then falling slowly until he was lost in the hollow between.  He was undisturbed for some time, until the noise of our bows, gradually approaching, roused him, when, lifting his head, he stared upon us for a moment, and then spread his wide wings and took his flight.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>MONDAY, <HI REND="italics">November 17th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This was a black day in our calendar.  At seven o'clock in the morning, it being our watch below, we were aroused from a sound sleep by the cry of "All hands ahoy! a man overboard!"  This unwonted cry sent a thrill through the heart of every one, and, hurrying on deck, we found the vessel hove flat aback, with all her studding-sails set; for, the boy who was at the helm leaving it to throw something overboard, the carpenter, who was an old sailor, knowing that the wind was light, put the helm down and hove her aback.  The watch on deck were lowering away the quarter-boat, and I got on deck just in time to fling myself into her as she was leaving the side; but it was not until out upon the wide Pacific, in our little boat, that I knew whom we had lost.  It was George Ballmer, the young English sailor, whom I have before spoken of as the life of the crew.  He was prized by the officers as an active and willing seaman, and by the men as a lively, hearty fellow, and a good shipmate.  He was going aloft to fit a strap round the main topmast-head, for ringtail halyards, and had the strap and block, a coil of halyards, and a marline-spike about his neck.  He fell from the starboard futtock shrouds, and, not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[<HI REND="italics">Facsimile from short diary written at sea from which, after long diary was lost, copy for the book was prepared</HI>
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139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[<HI REND="italics">Facsimile from unofficial Log of Ship "Alert</HI>
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139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>[<HI REND="italics">Facsimile from MS. used for the book.]</HI>
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139.sgm:knowing how to swim, and being heavily dressed, with all those things round his neck, he probably sank immediately.  We pulled astern, in the direction in which he fell, and though we knew that there was no hope of saving him, yet no one wished to speak of returning, and we rowed about for nearly an hour, without an idea of doing anything, but unwilling to acknowledge to ourselves that we must give him up.  At length we turned the boat's head and made towards the brig.</p><P>Death is at all times solemn, but never so much so as at sea.  A man dies on shore; his body remains with his friends, and "the mourners go about the streets"; but when a man falls overboard at sea and is lost, there is a suddenness in the event, and a difficulty in realizing it, which give to it an air of awful mystery.  A man dies on shore, --you follow his body to the grave, and a stone marks the spot.  You are often prepared for the event.  There is always something which helps you to realize it when it happens, and to recall it when it has passed.  A man is shot down by your side in battle, and the mangled body remains an object, and a real evidence; but at sea, the man is near you, --at your side, --you hear his voice, and in an instant he is gone, and nothing but a vacancy shows his loss.  Then, too, at sea--to use a homely but expressive phrase--you <HI REND="italics">miss</HI>
139.sgm: a man so much.  A dozen men are shut up together in a little bark upon the wide, wide sea, and for months and months see no forms and hear no voices but their own, and one is taken suddenly from among them, and they miss him at every turn.  It is like losing a limb.  There are no new faces or new scenes to fill up the gap.  There is always an empty berth in the forecastle, and one man wanting when the small night-watch is mustered.  There is one less to take the wheel, and one less to lay out with you upon the yard.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:You miss his form, and the sound of his voice, for habit had made them almost necessary to you, and each of your senses feels the loss.</p><P>All these things make such a death peculiarly solemn, and the effect of it remains upon the crew for some time.  There is more kindness shown by the officers to the crew, and by the crew to one another.  There is more quietness and seriousness.  The oath and the loud laugh are gone.  The officers are more watchful, and the crew go more carefully aloft.  The lost man is seldom mentioned, or is dismissed with a sailor's rude eulogy, --"Well, poor George is gone!  His cruise is up soon!  He knew his work, and did his duty, and was a good shipmate."  Then usually follows some allusion to another world, for sailors are almost all believers, in their way; though their notions and opinions are unfixed and at loose ends.  They say, "God won't be hard upon the poor fellow," and seldom get beyond the common phrase which seems to imply that their sufferings and hard treatment here will be passed to their credit in the books of the Great Captain hereafter, --" <HI REND="italics">To work hard, live hard, die hard, and go to hell after all, would be hard indeed</HI>
139.sgm:!"  Our cook, a simple-hearted old African, who had been through a good deal in his day, and was rather seriously inclined, always going to church twice a day when on shore, and reading his Bible on a Sunday in the galley, talked to the crew about spending the Lord's Days badly, and told them that they might go as suddenly as George had, and be as little prepared.</p><P>Yet a sailor's life is at best but a mixture of a little good with much evil, and a little pleasure with much pain.  The beautiful is linked with the revolting, the sublime with the commonplace, and the solemn with the ludicrous.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MAN OVERBOARD!</p></CAPTION>
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139.sgm:<P>Not long after we had returned on board with our sad report, and auction was held of the poor man's effects.  The captain had first, however, called all hands aft and asked them if they were satisfied that everything had been done to save the man, and if they thought there was any use in remaining there longer.  The crew all said that it was in vain, for the man did not know how to swim, and was very heavily dressed.  So we then filled away and kept the brig off to her course.</p><P>The laws regulating navigation make the captain answerable for the effects of a sailor who dies during the voyage, and it is either a law or a custom, established for convenience, that the captain should soon hold an auction of his things, in which they are bid off by the sailors, and the sums which they give are deducted from their wages at the end of the voyage.  In this way the trouble and risk of keeping his things through the voyage are avoided, and the clothes are usually sold for more than they would be worth on shore.  Accordingly, we had no sooner got the ship before the wind, than his chest was brought up upon the forecastle, and the sale began.  The jackets and trousers in which we had seen him dressed so lately were exposed and bid off while the life was hardly out of his body, and his chest was taken aft and used as a store-chest, so that there was nothing left which could be called <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
139.sgm:.  Sailors have an unwillingness to wear a dead man's clothes during the same voyage, and they seldom do so, unless they are in absolute want.</p><P>As is usual after a death, many stories were told about George.  Some had heard him say that he repented never having learned to swim, and that he knew that he should meet his death by drowning.  Another said that he never knew any good to come of a voyage made against the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:will, and the deceased man shipped and spent his advance, and was afterwards very unwilling to go, but, not being able to refund, was obliged to sail with us.  A boy, too, who had become quite attached to him, said that George talked to him, during most of the watch on the night before, about his mother and family at home, and this was the first time that he had mentioned the subject during the voyage.</p><P>The night after this event, when I went to the galley to get a light, I found the cook inclined to be talkative, so I sat down on the spars, and gave him an opportunity to hold a yarn.  I was the more inclined to do so, as I found that he was full of the superstitions once more common among seamen, and which the recent death had waked up in his mind.  He talked about George's having spoken of his friends, and said he believed few men died without having a warning of it, which he supported by a great many stories of dreams, and of unusual behavior of men before death.  From this he went on to other superstitions, the Flying Dutchman, &amp;c., and talked rather mysteriously, having something evidently on his mind.  At length he put his head out of the galley and looked carefully about to see if any one was within hearing, and, being satisfied on that point, asked me in a low tone, --</p><P>"I say! you know what countryman 'e carpenter be?"</p><P>"Yes," said I; "he's a German."</p><P>"What kind of a German?" said the cook.</p><P>"He belongs to Bremen," said I.</p><P>"Are you sure o' dat?" said he.</p><P>I satisfied him on that point by saying that he could speak no language but the German and English.</p><P>"I'm plaguy glad o' dat," said the cook.  "I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:mighty 'fraid he was a Fin.  I tell you what, I been plaguy civil to that man all the voyage."</p><P>I asked him the reason of this, and found that he was fully possessed with the notion that Fins are wizards, and especially have power over winds and storms.  I tried to reason with him about it, but he had the best of all arguments, that from experience, at hand, and was not to be moved.  He had been to the Sandwich Islands in a vessel in which the sail-maker was a Fin, and could do anything he was of a mind to.  This sail-maker kept a junk bottle in his berth, which was always just half full of rum, though he got drunk upon it nearly every day.  He had seen him sit for hours together, talking to this bottle, which he stood up before him on the table.  The same man cut his throat in his berth, and everybody said he was possessed.</p><P>He had heard of ships, too, beating up the gulf of Finland against a head wind, and having a ship heave in sight astern, overhaul, and pass them, with as fair a wind as could blow, and all studding-sails out, and find she was from Finland.</p><P>"Oh, no!" said he; "I've seen too much o'dem men to want to see 'em 'board a ship.  If dey can't have dare own way, they'll play the d--l with you."</p><P>As I still doubted, he said he would leave it to John, who was the oldest seaman aboard, and would know, if anybody did.  John, to be sure, was the oldest, and at the same time the most ignorant, man in the ship; but I consented to have him called.  The cook stated the matter to him, and John, as I anticipated, sided with the cook, and said that he himself had been in a ship where they had a head wind for a fortnight, and the captain found out at last that one of the men, with whom he had had same hard words a short time before, was a Fin, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and immediately told him if he did n't stop the head wind he would shut him down in the fore peak.  The Fin would not give in, and the captain shut him down in the fore peak, and would not give him anything to eat.  The Fin held out for a day and a half, when he could not stand it any longer, and did something or other which brought the wind round again, and they let him up.</p><P>"Dar," said the cook, "what you tink o' dat?"</p><P>I told him I had no doubt it was true, and that it would have been odd if the wind had not changed in fifteen days, Fin or no Fin.</p><P>"O," says he, "go 'way!  You tink, 'cause you been to college, you know better dan anybody.  You know better dan dem as 'as seen it wid der own eyes.  You wait till you've been to sea as long as I have, and den you'll know."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>WE continued sailing along with a fair wind and fine weather until--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, November 25th</HI>
139.sgm:, when at day-light we saw the island of Juan Fernandez directly ahead, rising like a deep blue cloud out of the sea.  We were then probably nearly seventy miles from it; and so high and so blue did it appear that I mistook it for a cloud resting over the island, and looked for the island under it, until it gradually turned to a deader and greener color, and I could mark the inequalities upon its surface.  At length we could distinguish trees and rocks; and by the afternoon this beautiful island lay fairly before us, and we directed our course to the only harbor.  Arriving at the entrance soon after sundown, we found a Chilian man-of-war brig, the only vessel, coming out.  She hailed us; and officer on board, whom we supposed to be an American, advised us to run in before night, and said that they were bound to Valparaiso.  We ran immediately for the anchorage, but, owing to the winds which drew about the mountains and came to us in flaws from different points of the compass, we did not come to an anchor until nearly midnight.  We had a boat ahead all the time that we were working in, and those aboard ship were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:continually bracing the yards about for every puff that struck us, until about twelve o'clock, when we came to in forty fathoms water, and our anchor struck bottom for the first time since we left Boston, --one hundred and three days.  We were then divided into three watches, and thus stood out the remainder of the night.</p><P>I was called on deck to stand my watch at about three in the morning, and I shall never forget the peculiar sensation which I experienced on finding myself once more surrounded by land, feeling the night-breeze coming from off shore, and hearing the frogs and crickets.  The mountains seemed almost to hang over us, and apparently from the very heart of them there came out, at regular intervals, a loud echoing sound, which affected me as hardly human.  We saw no lights, and could hardly account for the sound, until the mate, who had been there before, told us that it was the "Alerta" of the Chilian soldiers, who were stationed over some convicts confined in caves nearly half-way up the mountain.  At the expiration of my watch, I went below, feeling not a little anxious for the day, that I might see more nearly, and perhaps tread upon, this romantic, I may almost say classic, island.</p><P>When all hands were called it was nearly sunrise, and between that time and breakfast, although quite busy on board in getting up water-casks, &amp;c., I had a good view of the objects about me.  The harbor was nearly land-locked, and at the head of it was a landing, protected by a small breakwater of stones, upon which two large boats were hauled up, with a sentry standing over them.  Near this was a variety of huts or cottages, nearly a hundred in number, the best of them built of mud or unburnt clay, and whitewashed, but the greater part Robinson Crusoe like, --only of posts and branches of trees.  The governor's house, as it is called, was the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:conspicuous, being large, with grated windows, plastered walls, and roof of red tiles; yet like all the rest, only of one story.  Near it was a small chapel, distinguished by a cross; and a long, low, brown-looking building, surrounded by something like a palisade, from which an old and dingy-looking Chilian flag was flying.  This, of course, was dignified by the title of <HI REND="italics">Presidio</HI>
139.sgm:.  A sentinel was stationed at the chapel, another at the governor's house, and a few soldiers, armed with bayonets, looking rather ragged, with shoes out at the toes, were strolling about among the houses, or waiting at the landing-place for our boat to come ashore.</p><P>The mountains were high, but not so overhanging as they appeared to be by starlight.  They seemed to bear off towards the centre of the island, and were green and well wooded, with some large, and, I am told, exceedingly fertile valleys, with mule-tracks leading to different parts of the island.</p><P>I cannot here forget how Stimson and I got the laugh of the crew upon us by our eagerness to get on shore.  The captain having ordered the quarter-boat to be lowered, we both, thinking it was going ashore, sprang down into the forecastle, filled our jacket pockets with tobacco to barter with the people ashore, and, when the officer called for "four hands in the boat," nearly broke our necks in our haste to be first over the side, and had the pleasure of pulling ahead of the brig with a tow-line for half an hour, and coming on board again to be laughed at by the crew, who had seen our man&oelig;uvre.</p><P>After breakfast, the second mate was ordered ashore with five hands to fill the water-casks, and, to my joy, I was among the number.  We pulled ashore with empty casks; and here again fortune favored me, for the water was too thick and muddy to be put into the casks, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:the governor had sent men up to the head of the stream to clear it out for us, which gave us nearly two hours of leisure.  This leisure we employed in wandering about among the houses, and eating a little fruit which was offered to us.  Ground apples, melons, grapes, strawberries of an enormous size, and cherries abound here.  The latter are said to have been planted by Lord Anson.  The soldiers were miserably clad, and asked with some interest whether we had shoes to sell on board.  I doubt very much if they had the means of buying them.  They were very eager to get tobacco, for which they gave shells, fruit, &amp;c.  Knives were also in demand, but we were forbidden by the governor to let any one have them, as he told us that all the people there, except the soldiers and a few officers, were convicts sent from Valparaiso, and that it was necessary to keep all weapons from their hands.  The island, it seems, belongs to Chili, and had been used by the government as a penal colony for nearly two years; and the governor, --an Englishman who had entered the Chilian navy, --with a priest, half a dozen taskmasters, and a body of soldiers, were stationed there to keep them in order.  This was no easy task; and, only a few months before our arrival, a few of them had stolen a boat at night, boarded a brig lying in the harbor, sent the captain and crew ashore in their boat, and gone off to sea.  We were informed of this, and loaded our arms and kept strict watch on board through the night, and were careful not to let the convicts get our knives from us when on shore.  The worst part of the convicts, I found, were locked up under sentry, in caves dug into the side of the mountain, nearly half-way up, with mule-tracks leading to them, whence they were taken by day and set to work under taskmasters upon building an aqueduct, a wharf, and other public works; while the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:rest lived in the houses which they put up for themselves, had their families with them, and seemed to me to be the laziest people on the face of the earth.  They did nothing but take a <HI REND="italics">paseo</HI>
139.sgm: into the woods, a <HI REND="italics">paseo</HI>
139.sgm: among the houses, a <HI REND="italics">paseo</HI>
139.sgm: at the landing-place, looking at us and our vessel, and too lazy to speak fast; while the others were driven about, at a rapid trot, in single file, with burdens on their shoulders, and followed up by their taskmasters, with long rods in their hands, and broad-brimmed straw hats upon their heads.  Upon what precise grounds this great distinction was made, I do not know, and I could not very well know, for the governor was the only man who spoke English upon the island, and he was out of my walk, for I was a sailor ashore as well as on board.</p><P>Having filled our casks we returned on board, and soon after, the governor dressed in a uniform like that of an American militia officer, the <HI REND="italics">Padre</HI>
139.sgm:, in the dress of the gray friars, with hood and all complete, and the <HI REND="italics">Capitan</HI>
139.sgm:, with big whiskers and dirty regimentals, came on board to dine.  While at dinner a large ship appeared in the offing, and soon afterwards we saw a light whaleboat pulling into the harbor.  The ship lay off and on, and a boat came alongside of us, and put on board the captain, a plain young Quaker, dressed all in brown.  The ship was the Cortes, whaleman, of New Bedford, and had put in to see if there were any vessels from round the Horn, and to hear the latest news from America.  They remained aboard a short time, and had a little talk with the crew, when they left us and pulled off to their ship, which, having filled away, was soon out of sight.</p><P>A small boat which came from the shore to take away the governor and suite--as they styled themselves--brought, as a present to the crew, a large pail of milk, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:a few shells, and a block of sandal-wood.  The milk, which was the first we had tasted since leaving Boston, we soon despatched; a piece of the sandal-wood I obtained, and learned that it grew on the hills in the centre of the island.  I regretted that I did not bring away other specimens; but what I had--the piece of sandal-wood, and a small flower which I plucked and brought on board in the crown of my tarpaulin, and carefully pressed between the leaves of a volume of Cowper's Letters--were lost, with my chest and its contents, by another's negligence, on our arrival home.</p><P>About an hour before sundown, having stowed our water-casks, we began getting under way, and were not a little while about it; for we were in thirty fathoms water, and in one of the gusts which came from off shore had let go our other bow anchor; and as the southerly wind draws round the mountains and comes off in uncertain flaws, we were continually swinging round, and had thus got a very foul hawse.  We hove in upon our chain, and after stoppering and unshackling it again and again, and hoisting and hauling down sail, we at length tripped our anchor and stood out to sea.  It was bright starlight when we were clear of the bay, and the lofty island lay behind us in its still beauty, and I gave a parting look and bade farewell to the most romantic spot of earth that my eyes had ever seen.  I did then, and have ever since, felt an attachment for that island together peculiar.  It was partly, no doubt, from its having been the first land that I had seen since leaving home, and still more from the associations which every one has connected with it in his childhood from reading Robinson Crusoe.  To this I may add the height and romantic outline of its mountains, the beauty and freshness of its verdure and the extreme fertility of its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:soil, and its solitary position in the midst of the wide expanse of the South Pacific, as all concurring to give it its charm.</p><P>When thoughts of this place have occurred to me at different times, I have endeavored to recall more particulars with regard to it.  It is situated in about 33&deg; 30' S., and is distant a little more than three hundred miles from Valparaiso, on the coast of Chili, which is in the same latitude.  It is about fifteen miles in length and five in breadth.  The harbor in which we anchored (called by Lord Anson Cumberland Bay) is the only one in the island, two small <HI REND="italics">bights</HI>
139.sgm: of land on each side of the main bay (sometimes dignified by the name of bays) being little more than landing-places for boats.  The best anchorage is at the western side of the harbor, where we lay at about three cables' lengths from the shore, in a little more than thirty fathoms water.  This harbor is open to the N.N.E., and in fact nearly from N. to E.; but the only dangerous winds being the southwest, on which side are the highest mountains, it is considered safe.  The most remarkable thing, perhaps, about it is the fish with which it abounds.  Two of our crew, who remained on board, caught in a short time enough to last us for several days, and one of the men, who was a Marblehead man, said that he never saw or heard of such an abundance.  There were cod, bream, silver-fish, and other kinds, whose names they did not know, or which I have forgotten.</p><P>There is an abundance of the best of water upon the island, small streams running through every valley, and leaping down from the sides of the hills.  One stream of considerable size flows through the centre of the lawn upon which the houses are built, and furnishes an easy and abundant supply to the inhabitants.  This, by means <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of a short wooden aqueduct, was brought quite down to our boats.  The convicts had also built something in the way of a breakwater, and were to build a landing-place for boats and goods, after which the Chilian government intended to lay port charges.</p><P>Of the wood, I can only say that it appeared to be abundant; the island in the month of November, when we were there, being in all the freshness and beauty of spring, appeared covered with trees.  These were chiefly aromatic, and the largest was the myrtle.  The soil is very loose and rich, and wherever it is broken up there spring up radishes, turnips, ground apples, and other garden fruits.  Goats, we were told, were not abundant, and we saw none, though it was said we might, if we had gone into the interior.  We saw a few bullocks winding about in the narrow tracks upon the sides of the mountains, and the settlement was completely overrun with dogs of every nation, kindred, and degree.  Hens and chickens were also abundant, and seemed to be taken good care of by the women.  The men appeared to be the laziest of mortals; and indeed, as far as my observation goes, there are no people to whom the newly invented Yankee word of "loafer" is more applicable than to the Spanish Americans.  These men stood about doing nothing, with their cloaks, little better in texture than an Indian's blanket, but of rich colors, thrown over their shoulders with an air which it is said that a Spanish beggar can always give to his rags, and with politeness and courtesy in their address, though with holes in their shoes, and without a sou in their pockets.  The only interruption to the monotony of their day seemed to be when a gust of wind drew round between the mountains and blew off the boughs which they had placed for roofs to their houses, and gave them a few minutes' occupation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:in running about after them.  One of these gusts occurred while we were ashore, and afforded us no little amusement in seeing the men look round, and, if they found that their roofs had stood, conclude that they might stand too, while those who saw theirs blown off, after uttering a few Spanish oaths, gathered their cloaks over their shoulders, and started off after them.  However, they were not gone long, but soon returned to their habitual <HI REND="italics">occupation</HI>
139.sgm: of doing nothing.</p><P>It is perhaps needless to say that we saw nothing of the interior; but all who have seen it give favorable accounts of it.  Our captain went with the governor and a few servants upon mules over the mountains, and, upon their return, I heard the governor request him to stop at the island on his passage home, and offer him a handsome sum to bring a few deer with him from California, for he said that there were none upon the island, and he was very desirous of having it stocked.</p><P>A steady though light southwesterly wind carried us well off from the island, and when I came on deck for the middle watch I could just distinguish it from its hiding a few low stars in the southern horizon, though my unpractised eyes would hardly have known it for land.  At the close of the watch a few trade-wind clouds which had arisen, though we were hardly yet in their latitude, shut it out from our view, and the next day, --</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday, November 27th</HI>
139.sgm:, upon coming on deck in the morning, we were again upon the wide Pacific, and saw no more land until we arrived upon the western coast of the great continent of America.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>AS we saw neither land nor sail from the time of leaving Juan Fernandez until our arrival in California, nothing of interest occurred except our own doings on board.  We caught the southeast trades, and ran before them for nearly three weeks, without so much as altering a sail or bracing a yard.  The captain took advantage of this fine weather to get the vessel in order for coming upon the coast.  The carpenter was employed in fitting up a part of the steerage into a trade-room; for our cargo, we now learned, was not to be landed, but to be sold by retail on board; and this trade-room was built for the samples and the lighter goods to be kept in, and as a place for the general business.  In the mean time we were employed in working upon the rigging.  Everything was set up taut, the lower rigging rattled down, or rather rattled <HI REND="italics">up</HI>
139.sgm: (according to the modern fashion), an abundance of spun-yarn and seizing-stuff made, and finally the whole standing-rigging, fore and aft, was tarred down.  It was my first essay at the latter business, and I had enough of it; for nearly all of it came upon my friend Stimson and myself.  The men were needed at the other work, and Henry Mellus, the other young man who came out with us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:before the mast, was laid up with the rheumatism in his feet, and the boy Sam was rather too young and small for the business; and as the winds were light and regular he was kept during most of the daytime at the helm, so that we had quite as much as we wished of it.  We put on short duck frocks, and, taking a small bucket of tar and a bunch of oakum in our hands, went aloft, one at the main royal-mast-head, and the other at the fore, and began tarring down.  This is an important operation, and is usually done about once in six months in vessels upon a long voyage.  It was done in our vessel several times afterwards, but by the whole crew at once, and finished off in a day; but at this time, as most of it, as I have said, came upon two of us, and we were new at the business, it took several days.  In this operation they always begin at the mast-head, and work down, tarring the shrouds, backstays, standing parts of the lifts, the ties, runners, &amp;c., and go to the yard-arms, and come in, tarring, as they come, the lifts and foot-ropes.  Tarring the stays is more difficult, and is done by an operation which the sailors call "riding down."  A long piece of rope--top-gallant-studding-sail halyards, or something of the kind--is taken up to the mast-head from which the stay leads, and rove through a block for a girt-line, or, as the sailors usually call it, a <HI REND="italics">gant</HI>
139.sgm: -line; with the end of this, a bowline is taken round the stay, into which the man gets with his bucket of tar and bunch of oakum; and the other end being fast on deck, with some one to tend it, he is lowered down gradually, and tars the stay carefully as he goes.  There he "swings aloft 'twixt heaven and earth," and if the rope slips, breaks, or is let go, or if the bowline slips, he falls overboard or breaks his neck.  This, however, is a thing which never enters into a sailor's calculation.  He only thinks of leaving no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<HI REND="italics">holidays</HI>
139.sgm: (places not tarred), --for, in case he should, he would have to go over the whole again, --or of dropping no tar upon deck, for then there would be a soft word in his ear from the mate.  In this manner I tarred down all the head-stays, but found the rigging about the jibbooms, martingale, and spritsail yard, upon which I was afterwards put, the hardest.  Here you have to "hang on with your eyelids" and tar with your hands.</p><P>This dirty work could not last forever; and on Saturday night we finished it, scraped all the spots from the deck and rails, and, what was of more importance to us, cleaned ourselves thoroughly, rolled up our tarry frocks and trousers and laid them away for the next occasion, and put on our clean duck clothes, and had a good comfortable sailor's Saturday night.  The next day was pleasant, and indeed we had but one unpleasant Sunday during the whole voyage, and that was off Cape Horn, where we could expect nothing better.  On Monday we began painting, and getting the vessel ready for port.  This work, too, is done by the crew, and every sailor who has been long voyages is a little of a painter, in addition to his other accomplishments.  We painted her, both inside and out, from the truck to the water's edge.  The outside is painted by lowering stages over the side by ropes, and on those we sat, with our brushes and paint-pots by us, and our feet half the time in the water.  This must be done, of course, on a smooth day, when the vessel does not roll much.  I remember very well being over the side painting in this way, one fine afternoon, our vessel going quietly along at the rate of four or five knots, and a pilot-fish, the sure precursor of a shark, swimming alongside of us.  The captain was leaning over the rail watching him, and we went quietly on with our work.  In the midst of our painting, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:on--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, December 19th</HI>
139.sgm:, we crossed the equator for the second time.  I had the sense of incongruity which all have when, for the first time, they find themselves living under an entire change of seasons; as, crossing the line under a burning sun in the midst of December.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday, December 25th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This day was Christmas, but it brought us no holiday.  The only change was that we had a "plum duff" for dinner, and the crew quarrelled with the steward because he did not give us our usual allowance of molasses to eat with it.  He thought the plums would be a substitute for the molasses, but we were not to be cheated out of our rights in that way.</p><P>Such are the trifles which produce quarrels on shipboard.  In fact, we had been too long from port.  We were getting tired of one another, and were in an irritable state, both forward and aft.  Our fresh provisions were, of course, gone, and the captain had stopped our rice, so that we had nothing but salt beef and salt pork throughout the week, with the exception of a very small duff on Sunday.  This added to the discontent; and many little things, daily and almost hourly occurring, which no one who has not himself been on a long and tedious voyage can conceive of or properly appreciate, --little wars and rumors of wars, reports of things said in the cabin, misunderstanding of words and looks, apparent abuses, --brought us into a condition in which everything seemed to go wrong.  Every encroachment upon the time allowed for rest appeared unnecessary.  Every shifting of the studding-sails was only to " <HI REND="italics">haze</HI>
139.sgm: "<ANCHOR ID="n8-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: the crew.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-11"><HI REND="italics">Haze</HI>
139.sgm: is a word of frequent use on board ship.  It is very expressive to a sailor, and means to punish by hard work.  Let an officer once say, "I'll <HI REND="italics">haze</HI>
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139.sgm:<P>In the midst of this state of things, my messmate Stimson and I petitioned the captain for leave to shift our berths from the steerage, where we had previously lived, into the forecastle.  This, to our delight, was granted, and we turned in to <HI REND="italics">bunk</HI>
139.sgm: and mess with the crew forward.  We now began to feel like sailors, which we never fully did when we were in the steerage.  While there, however useful and active you may be, you are but a mongrel, --a sort of afterguard and "ship's cousin."  You are immediately under the eye of the officers, cannot dance, sing, play, smoke, make a noise, or <HI REND="italics">growl</HI>
139.sgm:, or take any other sailor's pleasure; and you live with the steward, who is usually a go-between; and the crew never feel as though you were <HI REND="italics">one of them</HI>
139.sgm:.  But if you live in the forecastle, you are "as independent as a wood-sawyer's clerk" (nautice&acute;), and are a <HI REND="italics">sailor</HI>
139.sgm:.  You hear sailors' talk, learn their ways, their peculiarities of feeling as well as speaking and acting; and, moreover, pick up a great deal of curious and useful information in seamanship, ship's customs, foreign countries, &amp;c., from their long yarns and equally long disputes.  No man can be a sailor, or know what sailors are, unless he has lived in the forecastle with them, --turned in and out with them, and eaten from the common kid.  After I had been a week there, nothing would have tempted me to go back to my old berth, and never afterwards, even in the worst of weather, when in a close and leaking forecastle off Cape Horn, did I for a moment wish myself in the steerage.  Another thing which you learn better in the forecastle than you can anywhere else is, to make and mend clothes, and this is indispensable to sailors.  A large part of their watches below they spend at this work, and here I learned the art myself, which stood me in so good stead afterwards.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>But to return to the state of the crew.  Upon our coming into the forecastle, there was some difficulty about the uniting of the allowances of bread, by which we thought we were to lose a few pounds.  This set us into a ferment.  The captain would not condescend to explain, and we went aft in a body, with John, the Swede, the oldest and best sailor of the crew, for spokesman.  The recollection of the scene that followed always brings up a smile, especially the quarter-deck dignity and elocution of the captain.  He was walking the weather side of the quarter-deck, and, seeing us coming aft, stopped short in his walk, and with a voice and look intended to annihilate us called out, "Well, what the d--l do you want now?"  Whereupon we stated our grievances as respectfully as we could, but he broke in upon us, saying that we were getting fat and lazy, didn't have enough to do, and it was that which made us find fault.  This provoked us, and we began to give word for word.  This would never answer.  He clinched his fist, stamped and swore, and ordered us all forward, saying, with oaths enough interspersed to send the words home, "Away with you! go forward every one of you!  I'll <HI REND="italics">haze</HI>
139.sgm: you!  I'll work you up!  You don't have enough to do!  If you a'n't careful I'll make a hell of heaven!....You've mistaken your man!  I'm Frank Thompson, all the way from 'down east.'  I've been through the mill, ground and bolted, and come out a <HI REND="italics">regular-built down-east johny-cake</HI>
139.sgm:, when it's hot, d--d good, but when it's cold, d--d sour and indigestible; --and you'll find me so!"  The latter part of this harangue made a strong impression, and the "down-east johnny-cake" became a byword for the rest of the voyage, and on the coast of California, after our arrival.  One of his nicknames in all the ports was "The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Down-east Johnny-cake."  So much for our petition for the redress of grievances.  The matter was, however, set right, for the mate, after allowing the captain due time to cool off, explained it to him, and at night we were all called aft to hear another harangue, in which, of course, the whole blame of the misunderstanding was thrown upon us.  We ventured to hint that he would not give us time to explain; but it wouldn't do.  We were driven back discomfited.  Thus the affair blew over, but the irritation caused by it remained; and we never had peace or a good understanding again so long as the captain and crew remained together.</p><P>We continued sailing along in the beautiful temperate climate of the Pacific.  The Pacific well deserves its name, for except in the southern part, at Cape Horn, and in the western parts, near the China and Indian oceans, it has few storms, and is never either extremely hot or cold.  Between the tropics there is a slight haziness, like a thin gauze, drawn over the sun, which, without obstructing or obscuring the light, tempers the heat which comes down with perpendicular fierceness in the Atlantic and Indian tropics.  We sailed well to the westward to have the full advantage of the northeast trades, and when we had reached the latitude of Point Conception, where it is usual to make the land, we were several hundred miles to the westward of it.  We immediately changed our course due east, and sailed in that direction for a number of days.  At length we began to heave-to after dark, for fear of making the land at night, on a coast where there are no lighthouses and but indifferent charts, and at daybreak on the morning of--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, January 13th, 1835</HI>
139.sgm:, we made the land at Point Conception, lat. 34&deg; 32' N., lon. 120&deg; 06' W.  The port of Santa Barbara, to which we were bound, lying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:about fifty miles to the southward of this point, we continued sailing down the coast during the day and following night, and on the next morning,</p><P><HI REND="italics">January 14th</HI>
139.sgm:, we came to anchor in the spacious bay of Santa Barbara, after a voyage of one hundred and fifty days from Boston.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA extends along nearly the whole of the western coast of Mexico, between the Gulf of California in the south and the Bay of San Francisco on the north, or between the 22d and 38th degrees of north latitude.  It is subdivided into two provinces, --Lower or Old California, lying between the gulf and the 32d degree of latitude, or near it (the division line running, I believe, between the bay of Todos Santos and the port of San Diego), and New or Upper California, the southernmost port of which is San Diego, in lat. 32&deg; 39', and the northernmost, San Francisco, situated in the large bay discovered by Sir Francis Drake, in lat. 37&deg; 58', and now known as the Bay of San Francisco, so named, I suppose, by Franciscan missionaries.  Upper California has the seat of its government at Monterey, where is also the custom-house, the only one on the coast, and at which every vessel intending to trade on the coast must enter its cargo before it can begin its traffic.  We were to trade upon this coast exclusively, and therefore expected to go first to Monterey, but the captain's orders from home were to Santa Barbara, which is the central port of the coast, and wait there for the agent, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:transacts all the business for the firm to which our vessel belonged.</p><P>The bay, or, as it was commonly called, the <HI REND="italics">canal</HI>
139.sgm: of Santa Barbara, is very large, being formed by the main land on one side (between Point Conception on the north and Point Santa Buenaventura on the south), which here bends in like a crescent, and by three large islands opposite to it and at the distance of some twenty miles.  These points are just sufficient to give it the name of a bay, while at the same time it is so large and so much exposed to the southeast and northwest winds, that it is little better than an open roadstead; and the whole swell of the Pacific Ocean rolls in here before a southeaster, and breaks with so heavy a surf in the shallow waters, that it is highly dangerous to lie near in to the shore during the southeaster season, that is, between the months of November and April.</p><P>This wind (the southeaster) is the bane of the coast of California.  Between the months of November and April (including a part of each), which is the rainy season in this latitude, you are never safe from it; and accordingly, in the ports which are open to it, vessels are obliged, during these months, to lie at anchor at a distance of three miles from the shore, with slip-ropes on their cables, ready to slip and go to sea at a moment's warning.  The only ports which are safe from this wind are San Francisco and Monterey in the north, and San Diego in the south.</p><P>As it was January when we arrived, and the middle of the southeaster season, we came to anchor at the distance of three miles from the shore, in eleven fathoms water, and bent a slip-rope and buoys to our cables, cast off the yard-arm gaskets from the sails, and stopped them all with rope-yarns.  After we had done this the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:boat went ashore with the captain, and returned with orders to the mate to send a boat ashore for him at sundown.  I did not go in the first boat, and was glad to find that there was another going before night; for after so long a voyage as ours had been, a few hours seem a long time to be in sight and out of reach of land.  We spent the day on board in the usual duties; but as this was the first time we had been without the captain, we felt a little more freedom, and looked about us to see what sort of a country we had got into, and were to pass a year or two of our lives in.</p><P>It was a beautiful day, and so warm that we wore straw hats, duck trousers, and all the summer gear.  As this was midwinter, it spoke well for the climate; and we afterwards found that the thermometer never fell to the freezing point throughout the winter, and that there was very little difference between the seasons, except that during a long period of rainy and southeasterly weather, thick clothes were not uncomfortable.</p><P>The large bay lay about us, nearly smooth, as there was hardly a breath of wind stirring, though the boat's crew who went ashore told us that the long ground-swell broke into a heavy surf on the beach.  There was only one vessel in the port--a long, sharp brig of about three hundred tons, with raking masts, and very square yards, and English colors at her peak.  We afterwards learned that she was built at Guayaquil, and named the Ayacucho, after the place where the battle was fought that gave Peru her independence, and was now owned by a Scotchman named Wilson, who commanded her, and was engaged in the trade between Callao and other parts of South America and California.  She was a fast sailer, as we frequently afterwards saw, and had a crew of Sandwich-Islanders on board.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Beside this vessel, there was no object to break the surface of the bay.  Two points ran out as the horns of the crescent, one of which--the one to the westward--was low and sandy, and is that to which vessels are obliged to give a wide berth when running out for a southeaster; the other is high, bold, and well wooded, and has a mission upon it, called Santa Buenaventura, from which the point is named.  In the middle of this crescent, directly opposite the anchoring ground, lie the Mission and town of Santa Barbara, on a low plain, but little above the level of the sea, covered with grass, though entirely without trees, and surrounded on three sides by an amphitheatre of mountains, which slant off to the distance of fifteen or twenty miles.  The Mission stands a little back of the town, and is a large building, or rather collection of buildings, in the centre of which is a high tower, with a belfry of five bells.  The whole, being plastered, makes quite a show at a distance, and is the mark by which vessels come to anchor.  The town lies a little nearer to the beach, --about half a mile from it, --and is composed of one-story houses built of sun-baked clay, or <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
139.sgm:, some of them white-washed, with red tiles on the roofs.  I should judge that there were about a hundred of them; and in the midst of them stands the Presidio, or fort, built of the same materials, and apparently but little stronger.  The town is finely situated, with a bay in front, and an amphitheatre of hills behind.  The only thing which diminishes its beauty is, that the hills have no large trees upon them, they having been all burnt by a great fire which swept them off about a dozen years ago, and they had not yet grown again.  The fire was described to me by an inhabitant, as having been a very terrible and magnificent sight.  The air of the whole valley was so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:heated that the people were obliged to leave the town and take up their quarters for several days upon the beach.</p><P>Just before sundown, the mate ordered a boat's crew ashore, and I went as one of the number.  We passed under the stern of the English brig, and had a long pull ashore.  I shall never forget the impression which our first landing on the beach of California made upon me.  The sun had just gone down; it was getting dusky; the damp night-wind was beginning to blow, and the heavy swell of the Pacific was setting in, and breaking in loud and high "combers" upon the beach.  We lay on our oars in the swell, just outside of the surf, waiting for a good chance to run in, when a boat, which had put off from the Ayacucho, came alongside of us, with a crew of dusky Sandwich-Islanders, talking and hallooing in their outlandish tongue.  They knew that we were novices in this kind of boating, and waited to see us go in.  The second mate, however, who steered our boat, determined to have the advantage of their experience, and would not go in first.  Finding, at length, how matters stood, they gave a shout, and taking advantage of a great comber which came swelling in, rearing its head, and lifting up the sterns of our boats nearly perpendicular, and again dropping them in the trough, they gave three or four long and strong pulls, and went in on top of the great wave, throwing their oars overboard, and as far from the boat as they could throw them, and, jumping out the instant the boat touched the beach, they seized hold of her by the gunwale, on each side, and ran her up high and dry upon the sand.  We saw, at once, how the thing was to be done, and also the necessity of keeping the boat stern out to the sea; for the instant the sea should strike upon her broadside or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:quarter, she would be driven up broadside on, and capsized.  We pulled strongly in, and as soon as we felt that the sea had got hold of us, and was carrying us in with the speed of a race-horse, we threw the oars as far from the boat as we could, and took hold of the gunwales, ready to spring out and seize her when she struck, the officer using his utmost strength, with his steering-oar, to keep her stern out.  We were shot up upon the beach, and, seizing the boat, ran her up high and dry, and, picking up our oars, stood by her, ready for the captain to come down.</p><P>Finding that the captain did not come immediately, we put our oars in the boat, and, leaving one to watch it, walked about the beach to see what we could of the place.  The beach is nearly a mile in length between the two points, and of smooth sand.  We had taken the only good landing-place, which is in the middle, it being more stony toward the ends.  It is about twenty yards in width from high-water mark to a slight bank at which the soil begins, and so hard that it is a favorite place for running horses.  It was growing dark, so that we could just distinguish the dim outlines of the two vessels in the offing; and the great seas were rolling in in regular lines, growing larger and larger as they approached the shore, and hanging over the beach upon which they were to break, when their tops would curl over and turn white with foam, and, beginning at one extreme of the line, break rapidly to the other, as a child's long card house falls when a card is knocked down at one end.  The Sandwich-Islanders, in the mean time, had turned their boat round, and ran her down into the water, and were loading her with hides and tallow.  As this was the work in which we were soon to be engaged, we looked on with some curiosity.  They ran the boat so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:far into the water that every large sea might float her, and two of them, with their trousers rolled up, stood by the bows, one on each side, keeping her in her right position.  This was hard work; for beside the force they had to use upon the boat, the large seas nearly took them off their legs.  The others were running from the boat to the bank, upon which, out of the reach of the water, was a pile of dry bullocks' hides, doubled lengthwise in the middle, and nearly as stiff as boards.  These they took upon their heads, one or two at a time, and carried down to the boat, in which one of their number stowed them away.  They were obliged to carry them on their heads, to keep them out of the water and we observed that they had on thick woollen caps.  "Look here, Bill, and see what you're coming to!" said one of our men to another who stood by the boat.  "Well, Dana," said the second mate to me, "this does not look much like Harvard College, does it?  But it is what I call ' <HI REND="italics">head work</HI>
139.sgm:.'"  To tell the truth, it did not look very encouraging.</p><P>After they had got through with the hides, the Kanakas laid hold of the bags of tallow (the bags are made of hide, and are about the size of a common meal-bag), and lifted each upon the shoulders of two men, one at each end, who walked off with them to the boat, when all prepared to go aboard.  Here, too, was something for us to learn.  The man who steered shipped his oar and stood up in the stern, and those that pulled the two after oars sat upon their benches, with their oars shipped, ready to strike out as soon as she was afloat.  The two men remained standing at the bows; and when, at length, a large sea came in and floated her, seized hold of the gunwales, and ran out with her till they were up to their armpits, and then tumbled over the gunwales into the bows, dripping with water.  The men at the oars struck <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:out, but it wouldn't do; the sea swept back and left them nearly high and dry.  The two fellows jumped out again; and the next time they succeeded better, and, with the help of a deal of outlandish hallooing and bawling, got her well off.  We watched them till they were out of the breakers, and saw them steering for their vessel, which was now hidden in the darkness.</p><P>The sand of the beach began to be cold to our bare feet; the frogs set up their croaking in the marshes, and one solitary owl, from the end of the distant point, gave out his melancholy note, mellowed by the distance, and we began to think that it was high time for "the old man," as a shipmaster is commonly called, to come down.  In a few minutes we heard something coming towards us.  It was a man on horseback.  He came on the full gallop, reined up near us, addressed a few words to us, and, receiving no answer, wheeled round and galloped off again.  He was nearly as dark as an Indian, with a large Spanish hat, blanket cloak or serape, and leather leggins, with a long knife stuck in them.  "This is the seventh city that ever I was in, and no Christian one neither," said Bill Brown.  "Stand by!" said John, "you haven't seen the worst of it yet."  In the midst of this conversation the captain appeared; and we winded the boat round, shoved her down, and prepared to go off.  The captain, who had been on the coast before, and "knew the ropes," took the steering-oar, and we went off in the same way as the other boat.  I, being the youngest, had the pleasure of standing at the bow, and getting wet through.  We went off well, though the seas were high.  Some of them lifted us up, and, sliding from under us, seemed to let us drop through the air like a flat plank upon the body of the water.  In a few minutes we were in the low, regular swell, and pulled for a light, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:which, as we neared it, we found had been run up to our trysail gaff.</p><P>Coming aboard, we hoisted up all the boats, and, diving down into the forecastle, changed our wet clothes, and got our supper.  After supper the sailors lighted their pipes (cigars, those of us who had them), and we had to tell all we had seen ashore.  Then followed conjectures about the people ashore, the length of the voyage, carrying hides, &amp;c., &amp;c., until eight bells, when all hands were called aft, and the "anchor watch" set.  We were to stand two in a watch, and, as the nights were pretty long, two hours were to make a watch.  The second mate was to keep the deck until eight o'clock, all hands were to be called at daybreak, and the word was passed to keep a bright lookout, and to call the mate if it should come on to blow from the southeast.  We had, also, orders to strike the bells every half-hour through the night, as at sea.  My watchmate was John, the Swedish sailor, and we stood from twelve to two, he walking the larboard side and I the starboard.  At daylight all hands were called, and we went through the usual process of washing down, swabbing, &amp;c., and got breakfast at eight o'clock.  In the course of the forenoon, a boat went aboard of the Ayacucho and brought off a quarter of beef, which made us a fresh bite for dinner.  This we were glad enough to have, and the mate told us that we should live upon fresh beef while we were on the coast, as it was cheaper here than the salt.  While at dinner, the cook called "Sail ho!" and, coming on deck, we saw two sails bearing round the point.  One was a large ship under top-gallant sails, and the other a small hermaphrodite brig.  They both backed their topsails and sent boats aboard of us.  The ship's colors had puzzled us, and we found that she was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:from Genoa, with an assorted cargo, and was trading on the coast.  She filled away again, and stood out, being bound up the coast to San Francisco.  The crew of the brig's boat were Sandwich-Islanders, but one of them, who spoke a little English, told us that she was the Loriotte, Captain Nye, from Oahu, and was engaged in the hide and tallow trade.  She was a lump of a thing, what the sailors call a butter-box.  This vessel, as well as the Ayacucho, and others which we afterwards saw engaged in the same trade, have English or Americans for officers, and two or three before the mast to do the work upon the rigging, and to be relied upon for seamanship, while the rest of the crew are Sandwich-Islanders, who are active and very useful in boating.</p><P>The three captains went ashore after dinner, and came off again at night.  When in port, everything is attended to by the chief mate; the captain, unless he is also supercargo, has little to do, and is usually ashore much of his time.  This we thought would be pleasanter for us, as the mate was a good-natured man, and not very strict.  So it was for a time, but we were worse off in the end; for wherever the captain is a severe, energetic man, and the mate has neither of these qualities, there will always be trouble.  And trouble we had already begun to anticipate.  The captain had several times found fault with the mate, in presence of the crew; and hints had been dropped that all was not right between them.  When this is the case, and the captain suspects that his chief officer is too easy and familiar with the crew, he begins to interfere in all the duties, and to draw the reins more taut, and the crew have to suffer.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THIS night, after sundown, it looked black at the southward and eastward, and we were told to keep a bright lookout.  Expecting to be called, we turned in early.  Waking up about midnight, I found a man who had just come down from his watch striking a light.  He said that it was beginning to puff from the southeast, that the sea was rolling in, and he had called the captain; and as he threw himself down on his chest with all his clothes on, I knew that he expected to be called.  I felt the vessel pitching at her anchor, and the chain surging and snapping, and lay awake, prepared for an instant summons.  In a few minutes it came, --three knocks on the scuttle, and "All hands ahoy! bear-a-hand<ANCHOR ID="n10-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: up and make sail."  We sprang for our clothes, and were about half dressed, when the mate called out, down the scuttle, "Tumble up here, men! tumble up! before she drags her anchor."  We were on deck in an instant.  "Lay aloft and loose the topsails!" shouted the captain, as soon as the first man showed himself.  Springing into the rigging, I saw that the Ayacucho's topsails were loosed, and heard her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:crew singing out at the sheets as they were hauling them home.  This had probably started our captain; as "Old Wilson" (the captain of the Ayacucho) had been many years on the coast, and knew the signs of the weather.  We soon had the topsails loosed; and one hand remaining, as usual, in each top, to overhaul the rigging and light the sail out, the rest of us came down to man the sheets.  While sheeting home, we saw the Ayacucho standing athwart our hawse, sharp upon the wind, cutting through the head seas like a knife, with her raking masts, and her sharp bows running up like the head of a greyhound.  It was a beautiful sight.  She was like a bird which had been frightened and had spread her wings in flight.  After our topsails had been sheeted home, the head yards braced aback, the fore-topmast staysail hoisted, and the buoys streamed, and all ready forward for slipping, we went aft and manned the slip-rope which came through the stern port with a turn round the timberheads.  "All ready forward?" asked the captain.  "Aye, aye, sir; all ready," answered the mate.  "Let go!"  "All gone, sir"; and the chain cable grated over the windlass and through the hawse-hole, and the little vessel's head swinging off from the wind under the force of her backed head sails brought the strain upon the slip-rope.  "Let go aft!"  Instantly all was gone, and we were under way.  As soon as she was well off from the wind, we filled away the head yards, braced all up sharp, set the foresail and trysail, and left our anchorage well astern, giving the point a good berth.  "Nye's off too," said the captain to the mate; and, looking astern, we could just see the little hermaphrodite brig under sail, standing after us.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-11">"Bear-a-hand" is to make haste.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>It now began to blow fresh; the rain fell fast, and it grew black; but the captain would not take in sail until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:we were well clear of the point.  As soon as we left this on our quarter, and were standing out to sea, the order was given, and we went aloft, double-reefed each topsail, furled the foresail, and double-reefed the trysail, and were soon under easy sail.  In these cases of slipping for southeasters there is nothing to be done, after you have got clear of the coast, but to lie-to under easy sail, and wait for the gale to be over, which seldom lasts more than two days, and is sometimes over in twelve hours; but the wind never comes back to the southward until there has a good deal of rain fallen.  "Go below the watch," said the mate; but here was a dispute which watch it should be.  The mate soon settled it by sending his watch below, saying that we should have our turn the next time we got under way.  We remained on deck till the expiration of the watch, the wind blowing very fresh and the rain coming down in torrents.  When the watch came up, we wore ship, and stood on the other tack, in towards land.  When we came up again, which was at four in the morning, it was very dark, and there was not much wind, but it was raining as I thought I had never seen it rain before.  We had on oil-cloth suits and southwester caps, and had nothing to do but to stand bolt upright and let it pour down upon us.  There are no umbrellas, and no sheds to go under, at sea.</p><P>While we were standing about on deck, we saw the little brig drifting by us, hove to under her fore topsail double reefed; and and she glided by like a phantom.  Not a word was spoken, and we saw no one on deck but the man at the wheel.  Toward morning the captain put his head out of the companion-way and told the second mate, who commanded our watch, to look out for a change of wind, which usually followed a calm, with heavy rain.  It was well that he did; for in a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:minutes it fell dead calm, the vessel lost her steerageway, the rain ceased, we hauled up the trysail and courses, squared the after-yards, and waited for the change, which came in a few minutes, with a vengeance, from the northwest, the opposite point of the compass.  Owing to our precautions, we were not taken aback, but ran before the wind with square yards.  The captain coming on deck, we braced up a little and stood back for our anchorage.  With the change of wind came a change of weather, and in two hours the wind moderated into the light steady breeze, which blows down the coast the greater part of the year, and, from its regularity, might be called a trade-wind.  The sun came up bright, and we set royals, skysails and studding-sails, and were under fair way for Santa Barbara.  The little Loriotte was astern of us, nearly out of sight; but we saw nothing of the Ayacucho.  In a short time she appeared, standing out from Santa Rosa Island, under the lee of which she had been hove to all night.  Our captain was eager to get in before her, for it would be a great credit to us, on the coast, to beat the Ayacucho, which had been called the best sailer in the North Pacific, in which she had been known as a trader for six years or more.  We had an advantage over her in light winds, from our royals and skysails which we carried both at the fore and main, and also from our studding-sails; for Captain Wilson carried nothing above top-gallant-sails, and always unbent his studding-sails when on the coast.  As the wind was light and fair, we held our own, for some time, when we were both obliged to brace up and come upon a taut bowline, after rounding the point; and here he had us on his own ground, and walked away from us, as you would haul in a line.  He afterwards said that we sailed well enough with the wind free, but that give him a taut <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:bowline, and he would beat us, if we had all the canvas of the Royal George.</p><P>The Ayacucho got to the anchoring ground about half an hour before us, and was furling her sails when we came to it.  This picking up your cables is a nice piece of work.  It requires some seamanship to do it, and to come-to at your former moorings, without letting go another anchor.  Captain Wilson was remarkable, among the sailors on the coast, for his skill in doing this; and our captain never let go a second anchor during all the time that I was with him.  Coming a little to windward of our buoy, we clewed up the light sails, backed our main topsail, and lowered a boat, which pulled off, and made fast a spare hawser to the buoy on the end of the slip-rope.  We brought the other end to the capstan, and hove in upon it until we came to the slip-rope, which we took to the windlass, and walked her up to her chain, occasionally helping her by backing and filling the sails.  The chain is then passed through the hawse-hole and round the windlass, and bitted, the slip-rope taken round outside and brought into the stern port, and she is safe in her old berth.  After we had got through, the mate told us that this was a small touch of California, the like of which we must expect to have through the winter.</p><P>After we had furled the sails and got dinner, we saw the Loriotte nearing, and she had her anchor before night.  At sundown we went ashore again, and found the Loriotte's boat waiting on the beach.  The Sandwich-Islander who could speak English told us that he had been up to the town; that our agent, Mr. Robinson, and some other passengers, were going to Monterey with us, and that we were to sail the same night.  In a few minutes Captain Thompson, with two gentlemen and a lady, came down, and we got ready to go off.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:had a good deal of baggage, which we put into the bows of the boat, and then two of us took the sen&tilde;ora in our arms, and waded with her through the water, and put her down safely in the stern.  She appeared much amused with the transaction, and her husband was perfectly satisfied, thinking any arrangement good which saved his wetting his feet.  I pulled the after oar, so that I heard the conversation, and learned that one of the men, who, as well as I could see in the darkness, was a young-looking man, in the European dress, and covered up in a large cloak, was the agent of the firm to which our vessel belonged; and the other, who was dressed in the Spanish dress of the country, was a brother of our captain, who had been many years a trader on the coast, and that the lady was his wife.  She was a delicate, dark-complexioned young woman, of one of the respectable families of California.  I also found that we were to sail the same night.</p><P>As soon as we got on board, the boats were hoisted up, the sails loosed, the windlass manned, the slip-ropes and gear cast off; and after about twenty minutes of heaving at the windlass, making sail, and bracing yards, we were well under way, and going with a fair wind up the coast to Monterey.  The Loriotte got under way at the same time, and was also bound up to Monterey, but as she took a different course from us, keeping the land aboard, while we kept well out to sea, we soon lost sight of her.  We had a fair wind, which is something unusual when going up, as the prevailing wind is the north, which blows directly down the coast; whence the northern are called the windward, and the southern the leeward ports.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>WE got clear of the islands before sunrise the next morning, and by twelve o'clock were out of the canal, and off Point Conception, the place where we first made the land upon our arrival.  This is the largest point on the coast, and is an uninhabited headland, stretching out into the Pacific, and has the reputation of being very windy.  Any vessel does well which gets by it without a gale, especially in the winter season.  We were going along with studding-sails set on both sides, when, as we came round the point, we had to haul our wind, and take in the lee studding-sails.  As the brig came more upon the wind, she felt it more, and we doused the skysails, but kept the weather studding-sails on her, bracing the yards forward, so that the swinging-boom nearly touched the spritsail yard.  She now lay over to it, the wind was freshening, and the captain was evidently "dragging on to her."  His brother and Mr. Robinson, looking a little disturbed, said something to him, but he only answered that he knew the vessel and what she would carry.  He was evidently <HI REND="italics">showing off</HI>
139.sgm:, and letting them know how he could carry sail.  He stood up to windward, holding on by the back-stays, and looking up at the sticks to see how much they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:would bear, when a puff came which settled the matter.  Then it was "haul down" and "clew up" royals, flying-jib, and studding-sails, all at once.  There was what the sailors call a "mess,"--everything let go, nothing hauled in, and everything flying.  The poor Mexican woman came to the companion-way, looking as pale as a ghost, and nearly frightened to death.  The mate and some men forward were trying to haul in the lower studding-sail, which had blown over the spritsail yard-arm and round the guys, while the topmast-studding-sail boom, after buckling up and springing out again like a piece of whalebone, broke off at the boom-iron.  I jumped aloft to take in the main top-gallant studding-sail, but before I got into the top the tack parted, and away went the sail, swinging forward of the top-gallant-sail, and tearing and slatting itself to pieces.  The halyards were at this moment let go by the run, and such a piece of work I never had before in taking in a sail.  After great exertions I got it, or the remains of it, into the top, and was making it fast, when the captain, looking up, called out to me, "Lay aloft there, Dana, and furl that main royal."  Leaving the studding-sail, I went up to the cross-trees; and here it looked rather squally.  The foot of the top-gallant-mast was working between the cross and trussel trees, and the mast lay over at a fearful angle with the topmast below, while everything was working and cracking, strained to the utmost.</p><P>There's nothing for Jack to do but to obey orders, and I went up upon the yard; and there was a worse mess, if possible, than I had left below.  The braces had been let go, and the yard was swinging about like a turnpike gate, and the whole sail, having blown out to leeward, the lee leach was over the yard-arm, and the sky-sail was all adrift and flying about my head.  I looked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:down, but it was in vain to attempt to make myself heard, for every one was busy below, and the wind roared, and sails were flapping in all directions.  Fortunately, it was noon and broad daylight, and the man at the wheel, who had his eyes aloft, soon say my difficulty, and after numberless signs and gestures got some one to haul the necessary ropes taut.  During this interval I took a look below.  Everything was in confusion on deck; the little vessel was tearing through the water as if she had lost her wits, the seas flying over her, and the masts leaning over at a wide angle from the vertical.  At the other royal-mast-head was Stimson, working away at the sail, which was blowing from him as fast as he could gather it in.  The top-gallant sail below me was soon clewed up, which relieved the mast, and in a short time I got my sail furled, and went below; but I lost overboard a new tarpaulin hat, which troubled me more than anything else.  We worked for about half an hour with might and main; and in an hour from the time the squall struck us, from having all our flying kites abroad, we came down to double-reefed topsails and the storm-sails.</p><P>The wind had hauled ahead during the squall, and we were standing directly in for the point.  So, as soon as we had got all snug, we wore round and stood off again, and had the pleasant prospect of beating up to Monterey, a distance of a hundred miles, against a violent head wind.  Before night it began to rain; and we had five days of rainy, stormy weather, under close sail all the time, and were blown several hundred miles off the coast.  In the midst of this, we discovered that our fore topmast was sprung (which no doubt happened in the squall), and were obliged to send down the fore top-gallant-mast and carry as little sail as possible forward.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Our four passengers were dreadfully sea-sick, so that we saw little or nothing of them during the five days.  On the sixth day it cleared off, and the sun came out bright, but the wind and sea were still very high.  It was quite like being in mid-ocean again; no land for hundreds of miles, and the captain taking the sun every day at noon.  Our passengers now made their appearance, and I had for the first time the opportunity of seeing what a miserable and forlorn creature a sea-sick passenger is.  Since I had got over my own sickness, the third day from Boston, I had seen nothing but hale, hearty men, with their sea legs on, and able to go anywhere (for we had no passengers on our voyage out); and I will own there was a pleasant feeling of superiority in being able to walk the deck, and eat, and go aloft, and compare one's self with two poor, miserable, pale creatures, staggering and shuffling about decks, or holding on and looking up with giddy heads, to see us climbing to the mast-heads, or sitting quietly at work on the ends of the lofty yards.  A well man at sea has little sympathy with one who is sea-sick; he is apt to be too conscious of a comparison which seems favorable to his own manhood.</p><P>After a few days we made the land at Point Pinos, which is the headland at the entrance of the bay of Monterey.  As we drew in and ran down the shore, we could distinguish well the face of the country, and found it better wooded than that to the southward of Point Conception.  In fact, as I afterwards discovered, Point Conception may be made the dividing-line between two different faces of the country.  As you go to the northward of the point, the country becomes more wooded, has a richer appearance, and is better supplied with water.  This is the case with Monterey, and still more so with San Francisco; while to the southward of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:point, as at Santa Barbara, San Pedro, and particularly San Diego, there is very little wood, and the country has a naked, level appearance, though it is still fertile.</p><P>The bay of Monterey is wide at the entrance, being about twenty-four miles between the two points, An&tilde;o Nuevo at the north, and Pinos at the south, but narrows gradually as you approach the town, which is situated in a bend, or large cove, at the southeastern extremity, and from the points about eighteen miles, which is the whole depth of the bay.  The shores are extremely well wooded (the pine abounding upon them), and as it was now the rainy season, everything was as green as nature could make it, --the grass, the leaves, and all; the birds were singing in the woods, and great numbers of wild fowl were flying over our heads.  Here we could lie safe from the southeasters.  We came to anchor within two cable lengths of the shore, and the town lay directly before us, making a very pretty appearance; its houses being of whitewashed adobe, which gives a much better effect than those of Santa Barbara, which are mostly left of a mud color.  The red tiles, too, on the roofs, contrasted well with the white sides, and with the extreme greenness of the lawn upon which the houses--about a hundred in number--were dotted about, here and there, irregularly.  There are in this place, and in every other town which I saw in California, no streets nor fences (except that here and there a small patch might be fenced in for a garden), so that the houses are placed at random upon the green.  This, as they are of one story, and of the cottage form, gives them a pretty effect when seen from a little distance.</p><P>It was a fine Saturday afternoon that we came to anchor, the sun about an hour high, and everything looking pleasantly.  The Mexican flag was flying from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:little square Presidio, and the drums and trumpets of the soldiers, who were out on parade, sounded over the water, and gave great life to the scene.  Every one was delighted with the appearance of things.  We felt as though we had got into a Christian (which in the sailor's vocabulary means civilized) country.  The first impression which California had made upon us was very disagreeable, --the open roadstead of Santa Barbara; anchoring three miles from the shore; running out to sea before every southeaster; landing in a high surf; with a little dark-looking town, a mile from the beach; and not a sound to be heard, nor anything to be seen, but Kanakas, hides, and tallow-bags.  Add to this the gale off Point Conception, and no one can be at a loss to account for our agreeable disappointment in Monterey.  Besides, we soon learned, which was of no small importance to us, that there was little or no surf here, and this afternoon the beach was as smooth as a pond.</p><P>We landed the agent and passengers, and found several persons waiting for them on the beach, among whom were some who, though dressed in the costume of the country, spoke English, and who, we afterwards learned, were English and Americans who had married and settled here.</p><P>I also connected with our arrival here another circumstance which more nearly concerns myself; viz., my first act of what the sailors will allow to be seamanship, --sending down a royal-yard.  I had seen it done once or twice at sea; and an old sailor, whose favor I had taken some pains to gain, had taught me carefully everything which was necessary to be done, and in its proper order, and advised me to take the first opportunity when we were in port, and try it.  I told the second mate, with whom I had been pretty <HI REND="italics">thick</HI>
139.sgm: when he was before the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:mast, that I could do it, and got him to ask the mate to send me up the first time the royal-yards were struck.  Accordingly, I was called upon, and went aloft, repeating the operations over in my mind, taking care to get each thing in its order, for the slightest mistake spoils the whole.  Fortunately, I got through without any word from the officer, and heard the "well done" of the mate, when the yard reached the deck, with as much satisfaction as I ever felt at Cambridge on seeing a " <HI REND="italics">bene</HI>
139.sgm: " at the foot of a Latin exercise.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THE next day being Sunday, which is the liberty-day among merchantmen, when it is usual to let a part of the crew go ashore, the sailors had depended upon a holiday, and were already disputing who should ask to go, when, upon being called in the morning, we were turned-to upon the rigging, and found that the top-mast, which had been sprung, was to come down, and a new one to go up, with top-gallant and royal masts, and the rigging to be set.  This was too bad.  If there is anything that irritates sailors, and makes them feel hardly used, it is being deprived of their Sunday.  Not that they would always, or indeed generally, spend it improvingly, but it is their only day of rest.  Then, too, they are so often necessarily deprived of it by storms, and unavoidable duties of all kinds, that to take it from them when lying quietly and safely in port, without any urgent reason, bears the more hardly.  The only reason in this case was, that the captain had determined to have the custom-house officers on board on Monday, and wished to have his brig in order.  Jack is a slave aboard ship; but still he has many opportunities of thwarting and balking his master.  When there is danger or necessity, or when he is well used, no one can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:work faster than he; but the instant he feels that he is kept at work for nothing, or, as the nautical phrase is, "humbugged," no sloth could make less headway.  He must not refuse his duty, or be in any way disobedient, but all the work that an officer gets out of him, he may be welcome to.  Every man who has been three months at sea knows how to "work Tom Cox's traverse"--"three turns round the long-boat, and a pull at the scuttled butt."  This morning everything went in this way.  " <HI REND="italics">Sogering</HI>
139.sgm: " was the order of the day.  Send a man below to get a block, and he would capsize everything before finding it, then not bring it up till an officer had called him twice, and take as much time to put things in order again.  Marline-spikes were not to be found; knives wanted a prodigious deal of sharpening, and, generally, three or four were waiting round the grindstone at a time.  When a man got to the mast-head, he would come slowly down again for something he had left; and after the tackles were got up, six men would pull less than three who pulled "with a will."  When the mate was out of sight, nothing was done.  It was all up-hill work; and at eight o'clock, when we went to breakfast, things were nearly where they were when we began.</p><P>During our short meal the matter was discussed.  One proposed refusing to work; but that was mutiny, and of course was rejected at once.  I remember, too, that one of the men quoted "Father Taylor" (as they call the seamen's preacher at Boston), who told them that, if they were ordered to work on Sunday, they must not refuse their duty, and the blame would not come upon them.  After breakfast, it leaked out, through the officers, that, if we would get through work soon, we might have a boat in the afternoon and go a-fishing.  This bait was well thrown, and took with several who were fond <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of fishing; and all began to find that as we had one thing to do, and were not to be kept at work for the day, the sooner we did it the better.  Accordingly, things took a new aspect; and before two o'clock, this work, which was in a fair way to last two days, was done; and five of us went a-fishing in the jolly-boat, in the direction of Point Pinos; but leave to go ashore was refused.  Here we saw the Loriotte, which sailed with us from Santa Barbara, coming slowly in with a light sea-breeze, which sets in towards afternoon, having been becalmed off the point all the first part of the day.  We took several fish of various kinds, among which cod and perch abounded, and Foster (the <HI REND="italics">ci-devant</HI>
139.sgm: second mate), who was of our number, brought up with his hook a large and beautiful pearl-oyster shell.  We afterwards learned that this place was celebrated for shells, and that a small schooner had made a good voyage by carrying a cargo of them to the United States.</p><P>We returned by sundown, and found the Loriotte at anchor within a cable's length of the Pilgrim.  The next day we were "turned-to" early, and began taking off the hatches, overhauling the cargo, and getting everything ready for inspection.  At eight, the officers of the customs, five in number, came on board, and began examining the cargo, manifest, &amp;c.  The Mexican revenue laws are very strict, and require the whole cargo to be landed, examined, and taken on board again; but our agent had succeeded in compounding for the last two vessels, and saving the trouble of taking the cargo ashore.  The officers were dressed in the costume which we found prevailed through the country, --broad-brimmed hat, usually of a black or dark brown color, with a gilt or figured band round the crown, and lined under the rim with silk; a short jacket of silk, of figured calico (the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:European skirted body-coat is never worn); the shirt open in the neck; rich waistcoat, if any; pantaloons open at the sides below the knee, laced with gilt, usually of velveteen or broadcloth; or else short breeches and white stockings.  They wear the deer-skin shoe, which is of a dark brown color, and (being made by Indians) usually a good deal ornamented.  They have no suspenders, but always wear a sash round the waist, which is generally red, and varying in quality with the means of the wearer.  Add to this the never-failing poncho, or the serapa, and you have the dress of the Californian.  This last garment is always a mark of the rank and wealth of the owner.  The <HI REND="italics">gente de razon</HI>
139.sgm:, or better sort of people, wear cloaks of black or dark blue broadcloth, with as much velvet and trimmings as may be; and from this they go down to the blanket of the Indian, the middle classes wearing a poncho, something like a large square cloth, with a hole in the middle for the head to go through.  This is often as coarse as a blanket, but being beautifully woven with various colors, is quite showy at a distance.  Among the Mexicans there is no working class (the Indians being practically serfs, and doing all the hard work); and every rich man looks like a grandee, and every poor scamp like a broken-down gentleman.  I have often seen a man with a fine figure and courteous manners, dressed in broadcloth and velvet, with a noble horse completely covered with trappings, without a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
139.sgm: in his pockets, and absolutely suffering for something to eat.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THE next day, the cargo having been entered in due form, we began trading.  The trade-room was fitted up in the steerage, and furnished out with the lighter goods, and with specimens of the rest of the cargo; and Mellus, a young man who came out from Boston with us before the mast, was taken out of the forecastle, and made supercargo's clerk.  He was well qualified for this business, having been clerk in a counting-house in Boston; but he had been troubled for some time with rheumatism, which unfitted him for the wet and exposed duty of a sailor on the coast.  For a week or ten days all was life on board.  The people came off to look and to buy, --men, women, and children; and we were continually going in the boats, carrying goods and passengers, --for they have no boats of their own.  Everything must dress itself and come aboard and see the new vessel, if it were only to buy a paper of pins.  The agent and his clerk managed the sales, while we were busy in the hold or in the boats.  Our cargo was an assorted one; that is, it consisted of everything under the sun.  We had spirits of all kinds (sold by the cask), teas, coffee, sugars, spices, raisins, molasses, hardware, crockery-ware, tin-ware, cutlery, clothing of all kinds, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:boots and shoes from Lynn, calicoes and cotton from Lowell, crapes, silks; also, shawls, scarfs, necklaces, jewelry, and combs for the women; furniture; and, in fact, everything that can be imagined, from Chinese fireworks to English cart-wheels, --of which we had a dozen pairs with their iron tires on.</p><P>The Californians are an idle, thriftless people, and can make nothing for themselves.  The country abounds in grapes, yet they buy, at a great price, bad wine made in Boston and brought round by us, and retail it among themselves at a real (12 1/2 cents) by the small wineglass.  Their hides, too, which they value at two dollars in money, they barter for something which costs seventy-five cents in Boston; and buy shoes (as like as not made of their own hides, which have been carried twice round Cape Horn) at three and four dollars, and "chicken-skin boots" at fifteen dollars a pair.  Things sell, on an average, at an advance of nearly three hundred per cent upon the Boston prices.  This is partly owing to the heavy duties which the government, in their wisdom, with an idea, no doubt, of keeping the silver in the country, has laid upon imports.  These duties, and the enormous expenses of so long a voyage, keep all merchants but those of heavy capital from engaging in the trade.  Nearly two thirds of all the articles imported into the country from round Cape Horn, for the last six years, have been by the single house of Bryant, Sturgis, &amp; Co., to whom our vessel belonged</p><P>This kind of business was new to us, and we liked it very well for a few days, though we were hard at work every minute from daylight to dark, and sometimes even later.</p><P>By being thus continually engaged in transporting passengers, with their goods, to and fro, we gained considerable knowledge of the character, dress, and language <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of the people.  The dress of the men was as I have before described it.  The women wore gowns of various texture, --silks, crape, calicoes, &amp;c., --made after the European style, except that the sleeves were short, leaving the arm bare, and that they were loose about the waist, corsets not being in use.  They wore shoes of kid or satin, sashes or belts of bright colors, and almost always a necklace and ear-rings.  Bonnets they had none.  I only saw one on the coast, and that belonged to the wife of an American sea-captain who had settled in San Diego, and had imported the chaotic mass of straw and ribbon, as a choice present to his new wife.  They wear their hair (which is almost invariably black, or a very dark brown) long in their necks, sometimes loose, and sometimes in long braids; though the married women often do it up on a high comb.  Their only protection against the sun and weather is a large mantle which they put over their heads, drawing it close round their faces, when they go out of doors, which is generally only in pleasant weather.  When in the house, or sitting out in front of it, which they often do in fine weather, they usually wear a small scarf or neckerchief of a rich pattern.  A band, also, about the top of the head, with a cross, star, or other ornament in front, is common.  Their complexions are various, depending--as well as their dress and manner--upon the amount of Spanish blood they can lay claim to, which also settles their social rank.  Those who are of pure Spanish blood, having never intermarried with the aborigines, have clear brunette complexions, and sometimes even as fair as those of English women.  There are but few of these families in California, being mostly those in official stations, or who, on the expiration of their terms of office, have settled here upon property they have acquired; and others <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:who have been banished for state offences.  These form the upper class, intermarrying, and keeping up an exclusive system in every respect.  They can be distinguished, not only by their complexion, dress, and manners, but also by their speech; for, calling themselves Castilians, they are very ambitious of speaking the pure Castilian, while all Spanish is spoken in a somewhat corrupted dialect by the lower classes.  From this upper class, they go down by regular shades, growing more and more dark and muddy, until you come to the pure Indian, who runs about with nothing upon him but a small piece of cloth, kept up by a wide leather strap drawn round his waist.  Generally speaking, each person's caste is decided by the quality of the blood, which shows itself, too plainly to be concealed, at first sight.  Yet the least drop of Spanish blood, if it be only of quadroon or octoroon, is sufficient to raise one from the position of a serf, and entitle him to wear a suit of clothes, --boots, hat, cloak, spurs, long knife, all complete, though coarse and dirty as may be, --and to call himself Espan&tilde;ol, and to hold property, if he can get any.</p><P>The fondness for dress among the women is excessive, and is sometimes their ruin.  A present of a fine mantle, or of a necklace or pair of ear-rings, gains the favor of the greater part.  Nothing is more common than to see a woman living in a house of only two rooms, with the ground for a floor, dressed in spangled satin shoes, silk gown, high comb, and gilt, if not gold, ear-rings and necklace.  If their husbands do not dress them well enough, they will soon receive presents from others.  They used to spend whole days on board our vessel, examining the fine clothes and ornaments, and frequently making purchases at a rate which would have made a seamstress or waiting-maid in Boston open her eyes.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>Next to the love of dress, I was most struck with the fineness of the voices and beauty of the intonations of both sexes.  Every common ruffian-looking fellow, with a slouched hat, blanket cloak, dirty under-dress, and soiled leather leggins, appeared to me to be speaking elegant Spanish.  It was a pleasure simply to listen to the sound of the language, before I could attach any meaning to it.  They have a good deal of the Creole drawl, but it is varied by an occasional extreme rapidity of utterance, in which they seem to skip from consonant to consonant, until, lighting upon a broad, open vowel, they rest upon that to restore the balance of sound.  The women carry this peculiarity of speaking to a much greater extreme than the men, who have more evenness and stateliness of utterance.  A common bullock-driver, on horseback, delivering a message, seemed to speak like an ambassador at a royal audience.  In fact, they sometimes appeared to me to be a people on whom a curse had fallen, and stripped them of everything but their pride, their manners, and their voices.</p><P>Another thing that surprised me was the quantity of silver in circulation.  I never, in my life, saw so much silver at one time, as during the week that we were at Monterey.  The truth is, they have no credit system, no banks, and no way of investing money but in cattle.  Besides silver, they have no circulating medium but hides, which the sailors call "California bank-notes."  Everything that they buy they must pay for by one or the other of these means.  The hides they bring down dried and doubled, in clumsy ox-carts, or upon mules' backs, and the money they carry tied up in a handkerchief, fifty or a hundred dollars and half-dollars.</p><P>I had not studied Spanish at college, and could not speak a word when at Juan Fernandez; but, during the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:latter part of the passage out, I borrowed a grammar and dictionary from the cabin, and by a continual use of these, and a careful attention to every word that I heard spoken, I soon got a vocabulary together, and began talking for myself.  As I soon knew more Spanish than any of the crew (who, indeed, knew none at all), and had studied Latin and French, I got the name of a great linguist, and was always sent by the captain and officers for provisions, or to take letters and messages to different parts of the town.  I was often sent for something which I could not tell the name of to save my life; but I liked the business, and accordingly never pleaded ignorance.  Sometimes I managed to jump below and take a look at my dictionary before going ashore; or else I overhauled some English resident on my way, and learned the word from him; and then, by signs, and by giving a Latin or French word a twist at the end, contrived to get along.  This was a good exercise for me, and no doubt taught me more than I should have learned by months of study and reading; it also gave me opportunities of seeing the customs, characters, and domestic arrangements of the people, beside being a great relief from the monotony of a day spent on board ship.</p><P>Monterey, as far as my observation goes, is decidedly the pleasantest and most civilized-looking place in California.  In the centre of it is an open square, surrounded by four lines of one-story buildings, with half a dozen cannon in the centre; some mounted, and others not.  This is the Presidio, or fort.  Every town has a presidio in its centre; or rather every presidio has a town built around it; for the forts were first built by the Mexican government, and then the people built near them, for protection.  The presidio here was entirely open and unfortified.  There were several officers with long titles, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:about eighty soldiers, but they were poorly paid, fed, clothed, and disciplined.  The governor-general, or, as he is commonly called, the "general," lives here, which makes it the seat of government.  He is appointed by the central government at Mexico, and is the chief civil and military officer.  In addition to him, each town has a commandant who is its chief officer, and has charge of the fort, and of all transactions with foreigners and foreign vessels; while two or three alcaldes and corregidores, elected by the inhabitants, are the civil officers.  Courts strictly of law, with a system of jurisprudence, they have not.  Small municipal matters are regulated by the alcaldes and corregidores, and everything relating to the general government, to the military, and to foreigners, by the commandants, acting under the governor-general.  Capital cases are decided by the latter, upon personal inspection, if near; or upon minutes sent him by the proper officers, if the offender is at a distant place.  No Protestant has any political rights, nor can he hold property, or, indeed, remain more than a few weeks on shore, unless he belong to a foreign vessel.  Consequently, Americans and English, who intend to reside here, become Papists, --the current phrase among them being, "A man must leave his conscience at Cape Horn."</p><P>But, to return to Monterey.  The houses here, as everywhere else in California, are of one story, built of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
139.sgm:, that is, clay made into large bricks, about a foot and a half square, and three or four inches thick, and hardened in the sun.  These are joined together by a cement of the same material, and the whole are of a common dirt-color.  The floors are generally of earth, the windows grated and without glass; and the doors, which are seldom shut, open directly into the common room, there being no entries.  Some of the more wealthy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:inhabitants have glass to their windows and board floors; and in Monterey nearly all the houses are whitewashed on the outside.  The better houses, too, have red tiles upon the roofs.  The common ones have two or three rooms which open into each other, and are furnished with a bed or two, a few chairs and tables, a looking-glass, a crucifix, and small daubs of paintings enclosed in glass, representing some miracle or martyrdom.  They have no chimneys or fireplaces in the houses, the climate being such as to make a fire unnecessary; and all their cooking is done in a small kitchen, separated from the house.  The Indians, as I have said before, do all the hard work, two or three being attached to the better house; and the poorest persons are able to keep one, at least, for they have only to feed them, and give them a small piece of coarse cloth and a belt for the men, and a coarse gown, without shoes or stockings, for the women.</p><P>In Monterey there are a number of English and Americans (English or Ingles all are called who speak the English language) who have married Californians, become united to the Roman Church, and acquired considerable property.  Having more industry, frugality, and enterprise than the natives, they soon get nearly all the trade into their hands.  They usually keep shops, in which they retail the goods purchased in larger quantities from our vessels, and also send a good deal into the interior, taking hides in pay, which they again barter with our ships.  In every town on the coast there are foreigners engaged in this kind of trade, while I recollect but two shops kept by natives.  The people are naturally suspicious of foreigners, and they would not be allowed to remain, were it not that they conform to the Church, and by marrying natives, and bringing up their children as Roman Catholics and Mexicans, and not teaching them the English language, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:they quiet suspicion, and even become popular and leading men.  The chief alcaldes in Monterey and Santa Barbara were Yankees by birth.</p><P>The men in Monterey appeared to me to be always on horseback.  Horses are as abundant here as dogs and chickens were in Juan Fernandez.  There are no stables to keep them in, but they are allowed to run wild and graze wherever they please, being branded, and having long leather ropes, called lassos, attached to their necks and dragging along behind them, by which they can be easily taken.  The men usually catch one in the morning, throw a saddle and bridle upon him, and use him for the day, and let him go at night, catching another the next day.  When they go on long journeys, they ride one horse down, and catch another, throw the saddle and bridle upon him, and, after riding him down, take a third, and so on to the end of the journey.  There are probably no better riders in the world.  They are put upon a horse when only four or five years old, their little legs not long enough to come half-way over his sides, and may almost be said to keep on him until they have grown to him.  The stirrups are covered or boxed up in front, to prevent their catching when riding through the woods; and the saddles are large and heavy, strapped very tight upon the horse, and have large pommels, or loggerheads, in front, round which the lasso is coiled when not in use.  They can hardly go from one house to another without mounting a horse, there being generally several standing tied to the door-posts of the little cottages.  When they wish to show their activity, they make no use of their stirrups in mounting, but, striking the horse, spring into the saddle as he starts, and, sticking their long spurs into him, go off on the full run.  Their spurs are cruel things, having four or five rowels, each an inch in length, dull and rusty.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:The flanks of the horses are often sore from them, and I have seen men come in from chasing bullocks, with their horses' hind legs and quarters covered with blood.  They frequently give exhibitions of their horsemanship in races, bull-baitings, &amp;c.; but as we were not ashore during any holiday, we saw nothing of it.  Monterey is also a great place for cock-fighting, gambling of all sorts, fandangos, and various kinds of amusement and knavery.  Trappers and hunters, who occasionally arrive here from over the Rocky Mountains, with their valuable skins and furs, are often entertained with amusements and dissipation, until they have wasted their opportunities and their money, and then go back, stripped of everything.</p><P>Nothing but the character of the people prevents Monterey from becoming a large town.  The soil is as rich as man could wish, climate as good as any in the world, water abundant, and situation extremely beautiful.  The harbor, too, is a good one, being subject only to one bad wind, the north; and though the holding-ground is not the best, yet I heard of but one vessel's being driven ashore here.  That was a Mexican brig, which went ashore a few months before our arrival, and was a total wreck, all the crew but one being drowned.  Yet this was owing to the carelessness or ignorance of the captain, who paid out all his small cable before he let go his other anchor.  The ship Lagoda, of Boston, was there at the time, and rode out the gale in safety, without dragging at all, or finding it necessary to strike her top-gallant-masts.</p><P>The only vessel in port with us was the little Loriotte.  I frequently went on board her, and became well acquainted with her Sandwich Island crew.  One of them could speak a little English, and from him I learned a good deal about them.  They were well formed and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:active, with black eyes, intelligent countenances, dark olive, or, I should rather say, copper complexions, and coarse black hair, but not woolly, like the negroes.  They appeared to be talking continually.  In the forecastle there was a complete Babel.  Their language is extremely guttural, and not pleasant at first, but improves as you hear it more; and it is said to have considerable capacity.  They use a good deal of gesticulation, and are exceedingly animated, saying with their might what their tongues find to say.  They are complete water-dogs, and therefore very good in boating.  It is for this reason that there are so many of them on the coast of California, they being very good hands in the surf.  They are also ready and active in the rigging, and good hands in warm weather; but those who have been with them round Cape Horn, and in high latitudes, say that they are of little use in cold weather.  In their dress, they are precisely like our sailors.  In addition to these Islanders, the Loriotte had two English sailors, who acted as boatswains over the Islanders, and took care of the rigging.  One of them I shall always remember as the best specimen of the thoroughbred English sailor that I ever saw.  He had been to sea from a boy, having served a regular apprenticeship of seven years, as English sailors are obliged to do, and was then about four or five and twenty.  He was tall; but you only perceived it when he was standing by the side of others, for the great breadth of his shoulders and chest made him appear but little above the middle height.  His chest was as deep as it was wide, his arm like that of Hercules, and his hand "the fist of a tar--every hair a rope-yarn."  With all this, he had one of the pleasantest smiles I ever saw.  His cheeks were of a handsome brown, his teeth brilliantly white, and his hair, of a raven black, waved in loose curls all over his head and fine, open forehead; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and his eyes he might have sold to a duchess at the price of diamonds, for their brilliancy.  As for their color, every change of position and light seemed to give them a new hue; but their prevailing color was black, or nearly so.  Take him with his well-varnished black tarpaulin, stuck upon the back of his head, his long locks coming down almost into his eyes, his white duck trousers and shirt, blue jacket, and black kerchief, tied loosely round his neck, and he was a fine specimen of manly beauty.  On his broad chest was stamped with India ink "Parting moments,"--a ship ready to sail, a boat on the beach, and a girl and her sailor lover taking their farewell.  Underneath were printed the initials of his own name, and two other letters, standing for some name which he knew better than I.  The printing was very well done, having been executed by a man who made it his business to print with India ink, for sailors, at Havre.  On one of his broad arms he had a crucifix, and on the other, the sign of the "foul anchor."</p><P>He was fond of reading, and we lent him most of the books which we had in the forecastle, which he read and returned to us the next time we fell in with him.  He had a good deal of information, and his captain said he was a perfect seaman, and worth his weight in gold on board a vessel, in fair weather and in foul.  His strength must have been great, and he had the sight of a vulture.  It is strange that one should be so minute in the description of an unknown, outcast sailor, whom one may never see again, and whom no one may care to hear about; yet so it is.  Some persons we see under no remarkable circumstances, but whom, for some reason or other, we never forget.  He called himself Bill Jackson; and I know no one of all my accidental acquaintances to whom I would more gladly give a shake of the hand than to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:him.  Whoever falls in with him will find a handsome, hearty fellow, and a good shipmate.</p><P>Sunday came again while we were at Monterey; but, as before, it brought us no holiday.  The people on shore dressed and came off in greater numbers than ever, and we were employed all day in boating and breaking out cargo, so that we had hardly time to eat.  Our former second mate, who was determined to get liberty if it was to be had, dressed himself in a long coat and black hat, and polished his shoes, and went aft, and asked to go ashore.  He could not have done a more imprudent thing; for he knew that no liberty would be given; and besides, sailors, however sure they may be of having liberty granted them, always go aft in their working clothes, to appear as though they had no reason to expect anything, and then wash, dress, and shave after the matter is settled.  But this poor fellow was always getting into hot water, and if there was a wrong way of doing a thing, was sure to hit upon it.  We looked to see him go aft, knowing pretty well what his reception would be.  The captain was walking the quarter-deck, smoking his morning cigar, and Foster went as far as the break of the deck, and there waited for him to notice him.  The captain took two or three turns, and then, walking directly up to him, surveyed him from head to foot, and, lifting up his forefinger, said a word or two, in a tone too low for us to hear, but which had a magical effect upon poor Foster.  He walked forward, jumped down into the forecastle, and in a moment more made his appearance in his common clothes, and went quietly to work again.  What the captain said to him, we never could get him to tell, but it certainly changed him outwardly and inwardly in a surprising manner.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>AFTER a few days, finding the trade beginning to slacken, we hove our anchor up, set our topsails, ran the stars and stripes up to the peak, fired a gun, which was returned from the presidio, and left the little town astern, standing out of the bay, and bearing down the coast again for Santa Barbara.  As we were now going to leeward, we had a fair wind, and a plenty of it.  After doubling Point Pinos, we bore up, set studding-sails alow and aloft, and were walking off at the rate of eight or nine knots, promising to traverse in twenty-four hours the distance which we were nearly three weeks in traversing on the passage up.  We passed Point Conception at a flying rate, the wind blowing so that it would have seemed half a gale to us if we had been going the other way and close hauled.  As we drew near the islands of Santa Barbara, it died away a little, but we came-to at our old anchoring ground in less than thirty hours from the time of leaving Monterey.</p><P>Here everything was pretty much as we left it, --the large bay without a vessel in it, the surf roaring and rolling in upon the beach, the white Mission, the dark town, and the high, treeless mountains.  Here, too, we had our southeaster tacks aboard again, --slip-ropes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:buoy-ropes, sails furled with reefs in them, and rope-yarns for gaskets.  We lay at this place about a fortnight, employed in landing goods and taking off hides, occasionally, when the surf was not high; but there did not appear to be one half the business doing here that there was in Monterey.  In fact, so far as we were concerned, the town might almost as well have been in the middle of the Cordilleras.  We lay at a distance of three miles from the beach, and the town was nearly a mile farther, so that we saw little or nothing of it.  Occasionally we landed a few goods, which were taken away by Indians in large, clumsy ox-carts, with the bow of the yoke on the ox's neck instead of under it, and with small solid wheels.  A few hides were brought down, which we carried off in the California style.  This we had now got pretty well accustomed to, and hardened to also; for it does require a little hardening, even to the toughest.</p><P>The hides are brought down dry, or they will not be received.  When they are taken from the animal, they have holes cut in the ends, and are staked out, and thus dried in the sun without shrinking.  They are then doubled once, lengthwise, with the hair side usually in, and sent down upon mules or in carts, and piled above high-water mark; and then we take them upon our heads, one at a time, or two, if they are small, and wade out with them and throw them into the boat, which, as there are no wharves, we usually kept anchored by a small kedge, or keelek, just outside of the surf.  We all provided ourselves with thick Scotch caps, which would be soft to the head, and at the same time protect it; for we soon learned that, however it might look or feel at first, the "head-work" was the only system for California.  For besides that the seas, breaking high, often obliged us to carry the hides so, in order to keep them dry, we found that, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:they were very large and heavy, and nearly as stiff as boards, it was the only way that we could carry them with any convenience to ourselves.  Some of the crew tried other expedients, saying that that looked too much like West India negroes; but they all came to it at last.  The great art is in getting them on the head.  We had to take them from the ground, and as they were often very heavy, and as wide as the arms could stretch, and were easily taken by the wind, we used to have some trouble with them.  I have often been laughed at myself, and joined in laughing at others, pitching ourselves down in the sand, in trying to swing a large hide upon our heads, or nearly blown over with one in a little gust of wind.  The captain made it harder for us, by telling us that it was "California fashion" to carry two on the head at a time; and as he insisted upon it, and we did not wish to be outdone by other vessels, we carried two for the first few months; but after falling in with a few other "hide droghers," and finding that they carried only one at a time, we "knocked off" the extra one, and thus made our duty somewhat easier.</p><P>After our heads had become used to the weight, and we had learned the true California style of <HI REND="italics">tossing a hide</HI>
139.sgm:, we could carry off two or three hundred in a short time, without much trouble; but it always wet work, and, if the beach was stony, bad for our feet; for we, of course, went barefooted on this duty, as no shoes could stand such constant wetting with salt water.  And after this, we had a pull of three miles, with a loaded boat, which often took a couple of hours.</p><P>We had now got well settled down into our harbor duties, which, as they are a good deal different from those at sea, it may be well enough to describe.  In the first place, all hands are called at daylight, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:rather--especially if the days are short--before daylight, as soon as the first gray of the morning.  The cook makes his fire in the galley; the steward goes about his work in the cabin; and the crew rig the head pump, and wash down the decks.  The chief mate is always on deck, but takes no active part, all the duty coming upon the second mate, who has to roll up his trousers and paddle about decks barefooted, like the rest of the crew.  The washing, swabbing, squilgeeing, &amp;c. lasts, or is made to last, until eight o'clock, when breakfast is ordered, fore and aft.  After breakfast, for which half an hour is allowed, the boats are lowered down, and made fast astern, or out to the swinging booms by geswarps, and the crew are turned-to upon their day's work.  This is various, and its character depends upon circumstances.  There is always more or less of boating, in small boats; and if heavy goods are to be taken ashore, or hides are brought down to the beach for us, then all hands are sent ashore with an officer in the long-boat.  Then there is a good deal to be done in the hold, --goods to be broken out, and cargo to be shifted, to make room for hides, or to keep the trim of the vessel.  In addition to this, the usual work upon the rigging must be going on.  There is much of the latter kind of work which can only be done when the vessel is in port.  Everything, too, must be kept taut and in good order, --spun-yarn made, chafing gear repaired, and all the other ordinary work.  The great difference between sea and harbor duty is in the division of time.  Instead of having a watch on deck and a watch below, as at sea, all hands are at work together, except at mealtimes, from day-light till dark; and at night an "anchor watch" is kept, which, with us, consisted of only two at a time, all the crew taking turns.  An hour is allowed for dinner, and at dark the decks are cleared up, the boats hoisted, supper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HIDE DROGHING</p></CAPTION>
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139.sgm:ordered; and at eight the lights are put out, except in the binnacle, where the glass stands; and the anchor watch is set.  Thus, when at anchor, the crew have more time at night (standing watch only about two hours), but have no time to themselves in the day; so that reading, mending clothes, &amp;c., has to put off until Sunday, which is usually given.  Some religious captains give their crews Saturday afternoons to do their washing and mending in, so that they may have their Sundays free.  This is a good arrangement, and goes far to account for the preference sailors usually show for vessels under such command.  We were well satisfied if we got even Sunday to ourselves; for, if any hides came down on that day, as was often the case when they were brought from a distance, we were obliged to take them off, which usually occupied half a day; besides, as we now lived on fresh beef, and ate one bullock a week, the animal was almost always brought down on Sunday, and we had to go ashore, kill it, dress it, and bring it aboard, which was another interruption.  Then, too, our common day's work was protracted and made more fatiguing by hides coming down late in the afternoon, which sometimes kept us at work in the surf by starlight, with the prospect of pulling on board, and stowing them all away, before supper.</p><P>But all these little vexations and labors would have been nothing, --they would have been passed by as the common evils of a sea life, which every sailor, who is a man, will go through without complaint, --were it not for the uncertainty, or worse than uncertainty, which hung over the nature and length of our voyage.  Here we were, in a little vessel, with a small crew, on a half-civilized coast, at the ends of the earth, and with a prospect of remaining an indefinite period, --two or three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:years at the least.  When we left Boston, we supposed that ours was to be a voyage of eighteen months, or two years, at most; but, upon arriving on the coast, we learned something more of the trade, and found that, in the scarcity of hides, which was yearly greater and greater, it would take us a year, at least, to collect our own cargo, beside the passage out and home; and that we were also to collect a cargo for a large ship belonging to the same firm, which was soon to come on the coast, and to which we were to act as tender.  We had heard rumors of such a ship to follow us, which had leaked out from the captain and mate, but we passed them by as mere "yarn," till our arrival, when they were confirmed by the letters which we brought from the owners to their agent.  The ship California, belonging to the same firm, had been nearly two years on the coast getting a full cargo, and was now at San Diego, from which port she was expected to sail in a few weeks for Boston; and we were to collect all the hides we could, and deposit them at San Diego, when the new ship, which would carry forty thousand, was to be filled and sent home; and then we were to begin anew upon our own cargo.  Here was a gloomy prospect indeed.  The Lagoda, a smaller ship than the California, carrying only thirty-one or thirty-two thousand, had been two years getting her cargo; and we were to collect a cargo of forty thousand beside our own, which would be twelve or fifteen thousand; and hides were said to be growing scarcer.  Then, too, this ship, which had been to us a worse phantom than any flying Dutchman, was no phantom, or ideal thing, but had been reduced to a certainty; so much so that a name was given her, and it was said that she was to be the Alert, a well-known Indiaman, which was expected in Boston in a few months, when we sailed.  There could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:be no doubt, and all looked black enough.  Hints were thrown out about three years and four years; the older sailors said they never should see Boston again, but should lay their bones in California; and a cloud seemed to hang over the whole voyage.  Besides, we were not provided for so long a voyage, and clothes, and all sailors' necessaries, were excessively dear, --three or four hundred per cent advance upon the Boston prices.  This was bad enough for the crew; but still worse was it for me, who did not mean to be a sailor for life, having intended only to be gone eighteen months or two years.  Three or four years might make me a sailor in every respect, mind and habits, as well as body, <HI REND="italics">nolens volens</HI>
139.sgm:, and would put all my companions so far ahead of me that a college degree and a profession would be in vain to think of; and I made up my mind that, feel as I might, a sailor I might have to be, and to command a merchant vessel might be the limit of my ambition.</p><P>Beside the length of the voyage, and the hard and exposed life, we were in the remote parts of the earth, on an almost desert coast, in a country where there is neither law nor gospel, and where sailors are at their captain's mercy, there being no American consul, or any one to whom a complaint could be made.  We lost all interest in the voyage, cared nothing about the cargo, which we were only collecting for others, began to patch our clothes, and felt as though our fate was fixed beyond all hope of change.</p><P>In addition to, and perhaps partly as a consequence of, this state of things, there was trouble brewing on board the vessel.  Our <HI REND="italics">mate</HI>
139.sgm: (as the first mate is always called, <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
139.sgm: ) was a worthy man.--a more honest, upright, and kind-hearted man I never saw, --but he was too easy and amiable for the mate of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:merchantman.  He was not the man to call a sailor a "son of a bitch," and knock him down with a handspike.  Perhaps he really lacked the energy and spirit for such a voyage as ours, and for such a captain.  Captain Thompson was a vigorous, energetic fellow.  As sailors say, "he had n't a lazy bone in him."  He was made of steel and whalebone.  He was a man to "toe the mark," and to make every one else step up to it.  During all the time that I was with him, I never saw him sit down on deck.  He was always active and driving, severe in his discipline, and expected the same of his officers.  The mate not being enough of a <HI REND="italics">driver</HI>
139.sgm: for him, he was dissatisfied with him, became suspicious that discipline was getting relaxed, and began to interfere in everything.  He drew the reins tighter; and as, in all quarrels between officers, the sailors side with the one who treats them best, he became suspicious of the crew.  He saw that things went wrong, --that nothing was done "with a will"; and in his attempt to remedy the difficulty by severity he made everything worse.  We were in all respects unfortunately situated, --captain, officers, and crew, entirely unfitted for one another; and every circumstance and event was like a two-edged sword, and cut both ways.  The length of the voyage, which made us dissatisfied, made the captain, at the same time, see the necessity of order and strict discipline; and the nature of the country, which caused us to feel that we had nowhere to go for redress, but were at the mercy of a hard master, made the captain understand, on the other hand, that he must depend entirely upon his own resources.  Severity created discontent, and signs of discontent provoked severity.  Then, too, ill-treatment and dissatisfaction are no "linimenta laborum"; and many a time have I heard the sailors say that they should not mind the length of the voyage, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:the hardships, if they were only kindly treated, and if they could feel that something was done to make work lighter and life easier.  We felt as though our situation was a call upon our superiors to give us occasional relaxations, and to make our yoke easier.  But the opposite policy was pursued.  We were kept at work all day when in port; which, together with a watch at night, made us glad to turn-in as soon as we got below.  Thus we had no time for reading, or--which was of more importance to us--for washing and mending our clothes.  And then, when we were at sea, sailing from port to port, instead of giving us "watch and watch," as was the custom on board every other vessel on the coast, we were all kept on deck and at work, rain or shine, making spunyarn and rope, and at other work in good weather, and picking oakum, when it was too wet for anything else.  All hands were called to "come up and see it rain," and kept on deck hour after hour in a drenching rain, standing round the deck so far apart so as to prevent our talking with one another, with our tarpaulins and oil-cloth jackets on, picking old rope to pieces, or laying up gaskets and robands.  This was often done, too, when we were lying in port with two anchors down, and no necessity for more than one man on deck as a lookout.  This is what is called "hazing" a crew, and "working their old iron up."</p><P>While lying at Santa Barbara, we encountered another southeaster; and, like the first, it came on in the night; the great black clouds moving round from the southward, covering the mountain, and hanging down over the town, appearing almost to rest upon the roofs of the houses.  We made sail, slipped our cable, cleared the point, and beat about for four days in the offing, under close sail, with continual rain and high seas and winds.  No wonder, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:thought we, they have no rain in the other seasons, for enough seemed to have fallen in those four days to last through a common summer.  On the fifth day it cleared up, after a few hours, as is usual, of rain coming down like a four hours' shower-bath, and we found ourselves drifted nearly ten leagues from the anchorage; and, having light head winds, we did not return until the sixth day.  Having recovered our anchor, we made preparations for getting under way to go down to leeward.  We had hoped to go directly to San Diego, and thus fall in with the California before she sailed for Boston; but our orders were to stop at an intermediate port called San Pedro; and, as we were to lie there a week or two, and the California was to sail in a few days, we lost the opportunity.  Just before sailing, the captain took on board a short, red-haired, round-shouldered, vulgar-looking fellow, who had lost one eye and squinted with the other, and, introducing him as <HI REND="italics">Mr</HI>
139.sgm:.  Russell, told us that he was an officer on board.  This was too bad.  We had lost overboard, on the passage, one of the best of our number, another had been taken from us and appointed clerk, and thus weakened and reduced, instead of shipping some hands to make our work easier, he had put another officer over us, to watch and drive us.  We had now four officers, and only six in the forecastle.  This was bringing her too much down by the stern for our comfort.</p><P>Leaving Santa Barbara, we coasted along down, the country appearing level or moderately uneven, and, for the most part, sandy and treeless; until, doubling a high sandy point, we let go our anchor at a distance of three or three and a half miles from shore.  It was like a vessel bound to St. John's, Newfoundland, coming to anchor on the Grand Banks; for the shore, being low, appeared to be at a greater distance than it actually was, and we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:thought we might as well have stayed at Santa Barbara, and sent our boat down for the hides.  The land was of a clayey quality, and, as far as the eye could reach, entirely bare of trees and even shrubs; and there was no sign of a town, --not even a house to be seen.  What brought us into such a place, we could not conceive.  No sooner had we come to anchor, than the slip-rope, and the other preparations for southeasters, were got ready; and there was reason enough for it, for we lay exposed to every wind that could blow, except the northerly winds, and they came over a flat country with a rake of more than a league of water.  As soon as everything was snug on board, the boat was lowered, and we pulled ashore, our new officer, who had been several times in the port before, taking the place of steersman.  As we drew in, we found the tide low, and the rocks and stones, covered with kelp and seaweed, lying bare for the distance of nearly an eighth of a mile.  Leaving the boat, and picking our way barefooted over these, we came to what is called the landing-place, at high-water mark.  The soil was, at it appeared at first, loose and clayey, and, except the stalks of the mustard plant, there was no vegetation.  Just in front of the landing, and immediately over it, was a small hill, which, from its being not more than thirty or forty feet high, we had not perceived from our anchorage.  Over this hill we saw three men coming down, dressed partly like sailors and partly like Californians; one of them having on a pair of untanned leather trousers and a red baize shirt.  When they reached us, we found that they were Englishmen.  They told us that they had belonged to a small Mexican brig which had been driven ashore here in a southeaster, and now lived in a small house just over the hill.  Going up this hill with them, we saw, close behind it, a small, low <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:building, with one room, containing a fireplace, cooking apparatus, &amp;c., and the rest of it unfinished, and used as a place to store hides and goods.  This, they told us, was built by some traders in the Pueblo (a town about thirty miles in the interior, to which this was the port), and used by them as a storehouse, and also as a lodging-place when they came down to trade with the vessels.  These three men were employed by them to keep the house in order, and to look out for the things stored in it.  They said that they had been there nearly a year; had nothing to do most of the time, living upon beef, hard bread, and fri&acute;joles, a peculiar kind of bean, very abundant in California.  The nearest house, they told us, was a Rancho, or cattle-farm, about three miles off; and one of them went there, at the request of our officer, to order a horse to be sent down, with which the agent, who was on board, might go up to the Pueblo.  From one of them, who was an intelligent English sailor, I learned a good deal, in a few minutes' conversation, about the place, its trade, and the news from the southern ports.  San Diego, he said, was about eighty miles to the leeward of San Pedro; that they had heard from there, by a Mexican who came up on horseback, that the California had sailed for Boston, and that the Lagoda, which had been in San Pedro only a few weeks before, was taking in her cargo for Boston.  The Ayacucho was also there, loading for Callao; and the little Loriotte, which had run directly down from Monterey, where we left her.  San Diego, he told me, was a small, snug place, having very little trade, but decidedly the best harbor on the coast, being completely land-locked, and the water as smooth as a duck-pond.  This was the depot for all the vessels engaged in the trade; each one having a large house there, built of rough boards, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:which they stowed their hides as fast as they collected them in their trips up and down the coast, and when they had procured a full cargo, spent a few weeks there taking it in, smoking ship, laying in wood and water, and making other preparations for the voyage home.  The Lagoda was now about this business.  When we should be about it was more than I could tell, --two years, at least, I thought to myself.</p><P>I also learned, to my surprise, that the desolate-looking place we were in furnished more hides than any port on the coast.  It was the only port for a distance of eighty miles, and about thirty miles in the interior was a fine plane country, filled with herds of cattle, in the centre of which was the Pueblo de los Angeles, --the largest town in California, --and several of the wealthiest missions; to all of which San Pedro was the seaport.</p><P>Having made arrangements for a horse to take the agent to the Pueblo the next day, we picked our way again over the green, slippery rocks, and pulled toward the brig, which was so far off that we could hardly see her, in the increasing darkness; and when we got on board the boats were hoisted up, and the crew at supper.  Going down into the forecastle, eating our supper, and lighting our cigars and pipes, we had, as usual, to tell what we had seen or heard ashore.  We all agreed that it was the worst place we had seen yet, especially for getting off hides, and our lying off at so great a distance looked as though it was bad for southeasters.  After a few disputes as to whether we should have to carry our goods up the hill, or not, we talked of San Diego, the probability of seeing the Lagoda before she sailed, &amp;c., &amp;c.</p><P>The next day we pulled the agent ashore, and he went up to visit the Pueblo and the neighboring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:missions; and in a few days, as the result of his labors, large ox-carts, and droves of mules, loaded with hides, were seen coming over the flat country.  We loaded our long-boat with goods of all kinds, light and heavy, and pulled ashore.  After landing and rolling them over the stones upon the beach, we stopped, waiting for the carts to come down the hill and take them; but the captain soon settled the matter by ordering us to carry them all up to the top, saying that that was "California fashion."  So, what the oxen would not do, we were obliged to do.  The hill was low, but steep, and the earth, being clayey and wet with the recent rains, was but bad holding ground for our feet.  The heavy barrels and casks we rolled up with some difficulty, getting behind and putting our shoulders to them; now and then our feet, slipping, added to the danger of the casks rolling back upon us.  But the greatest trouble was with the large boxes of sugar.  These we had to place upon oars, and, lifting them up, rest the oars upon our shoulders, and creep slowly up the hill with the gait of a funeral procession.  After an hour or two of hard work, we got them all up, and found the carts standing full of hides, which we had to unload, and to load the carts again with our own goods; the lazy Indians, who came down with them, squatting on their hams, looking on, doing nothing, and when we asked them to help us, only shaking their heads, or drawling out "no quiero."</p><P>Having loaded the carts, we started up the Indians, who went off, one on each side of the oxen, with long sticks, sharpened at the end, to punch them with.  This is one of the means of saving labor in California, --two Indians to two oxen.  Now, the hides were to be got down; and for this purpose we brought the boat round to a place where the hill was steeper, and threw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:them off, letting them slide over the slope.  Many of them lodged, and we had to let ourselves down and set them a-going again, and in this way became covered with dust, and our clothes torn.  After we had the hides all down, we were obliged to take them on our heads, and walk over the stones, and through the water, to the boat.  The water and the stones together would wear out a pair of shoes a day, and as shoes were very scarce and very dear, we were compelled to go barefooted.  At night we went on board, having had the hardest and most disagreeable day's work that we had yet experienced.  For several days we were employed in this manner, until we had landed forty or fifty tons of goods, and brought on board about two thousand hides, when the trade began to slacken, and we were kept at work on board during the latter part of the week, either in the hold or upon the rigging.  On Thursday night there was a violent blow from the northward; but as this was offshore, we had only to let go our other anchor and hold on.  We were called up at night to send down the royal-yards.  It was as dark as a pocket, and the vessel pitching at her anchors.  I went up to the fore, and Stimson to the main, and we soon had them down "ship-shape and Bristol fashion"; for, as we had now become used to our duty aloft, everything above the cross-trees was left to us, who were the youngest of the crew, except one boy.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>FOR several days the captain seemed very much out of humor.  Nothing went right, or fast enough for him.  He quarrelled with the cook, and threatened to flog him for throwing wood on deck, and had a dispute with the mate about reeving a Spanish burton; the mate saying that he was right, and had been taught how to do it by a man <HI REND="italics">who was a sailor</HI>
139.sgm:!  This the captain took in dudgeon, and they were at swords' points at once.  But his displeasure was chiefly turned against a large, heavy-moulded fellow from the Middle States, who was called Sam.  This man hesitated in his speech, was rather slow in his motions, and was only a tolerably good sailor, but usually seemed to do his best; yet the captain took a dislike to him, thought he was surly and lazy, and "if you once give a dog a bad name,"--as the sailor-phrase is, --"he may as well jump over-board."  The captain found fault with everything this man did, and hazed him for dropping a marline-spike from the main-yard, where he was at work.  This, of course, was an accident, but it was set down against him.  The captain was on board all day Friday, and everything went on hard and disagreeably.  "The more you drive a man, the less he will do," was as true with us as with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:any other people.  We worked late Friday night, and were turned-to early Saturday morning.  About ten o'clock the captain ordered our new officer, Russell, who by this time had become thoroughly disliked by all the crew, to get the gig ready to take him ashore.  John, the Swede, was sitting in the boat alongside, and Mr. Russell and I were standing by the main hatchway, waiting for the captain, who was down in the hold, where the crew were at work, when we heard his voice raised in violent dispute with somebody, whether it was with the mate or one of the crew I could not tell, and then came blows and scuffling.  I ran to the side and beckoned to John, who came aboard, and we leaned down the hatchway, and though we could see no one, yet we knew that the captain had the advantage, for his voice was loud and clear:--</p><P>"You see your condition!  You see your condition!  Will you ever give me any more of your <HI REND="italics">jaw</HI>
139.sgm:?"  No answer; and then came wrestling and heaving, as though the man was trying to turn him.  "You may as well keep still, for I have got you," said the captain.  Then came the question, "Will you ever give me any more of your jaw?"</p><P>"I never gave you any, sir," said Sam; for it was his voice that we heard, though low and half choked.</p><P>"That's not what I ask you.  Will you ever be impudent to me again?"</p><P>"I never have been, sir," said Sam.</p><P>"Answer my question, or I'll make a spread eagle of you!  I'll flog you, by G--d."</p><P>"I'm no negro slave," said Sam.</p><P>"Then I'll make you one," said the captain; and he came to the hatchway, and sprang on deck, threw off his coat, and, rolling up his sleeves, called out to the mate:  "Seize that man up, Mr. Amerzene!  Seize him up!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Make a spread eagle of him!  I'll teach you all who is master aboard!"</p><P>The crew and officers followed the captain up the hatchway; but it was not until after repeated orders that the mate laid hold of Sam, who made no resistance, and carried him to the gangway.</p><P>"What are you going to flog that man for, sir?" said John, the Swede, to the captain.</p><P>Upon hearing this, the captain turned upon John; but, knowing him to be quick and resolute, he ordered the steward to bring the irons, and, calling upon Russell to help him, went up to John.</p><P>"Let me alone," said John.  "I'm willing to be put in irons.  You need not use any force"; and, putting out his hands, the captain slipped the irons on, and sent him aft to the quarter-deck.  Sam, by this time, was <HI REND="italics">seized up</HI>
139.sgm:, as it is called, that is, placed against the shrouds, with his wrists made fast to them, his jacket off, and his back exposed.  The captain stood on the break of the deck, a few feet from him, and a little raised, so as to have a good swing at him, and held in his hand the end of a thick, strong rope.  The officers stood round, and the crew grouped together in the waist.  All these preparations made me feel sick and almost faint, angry and excited as I was.  A man--a human being, made in God's likeness--fastened up and flogged like a beast!  A man, too, whom I had lived with, eaten with, and stood watch with for months, and knew so well!  If a thought of resistance crossed the minds of any of the men, what was to be done?  Their time for it had gone by.  Two men were fast, and there were left only two men besides Stimson and myself, and a small boy of ten or twelve years of age; and Stimson and I would not have joined the men in a mutiny, as they knew.  And then, on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:other side, there were (beside the captain) three officers, steward, agent, and clerk, and the cabin supplied with weapons.  But beside the numbers, what is there for sailors to do?  If they resist, it is mutiny; and if they succeed, and take the vessel, it is piracy.  If they ever yield again, their punishment must come; and if they do not yield, what are they to be for the rest of their lives?  If a sailor resist his commander, he resists the law, and piracy or submission is his only alternative.  Bad as it was, they saw it must be borne.  It is what a sailor ships for.  Swinging the rope over his head, and bending his body so as to give it full force, the captain brought it down upon the poor fellow's back.  Once, twice, --six times.</p><P>"Will you ever give me any more of your jaw?"  The man writhed with pain, but said not a word.  Three times more.  This was too much, and he muttered something which I could not hear; this brought as many more as the man could stand, when the captain ordered him to be cut down, and to go forward.</p><P>"Now for you," said the captain, making up to John, and taking his irons off.  As soon as John was loose, he ran forward to the forecastle.  "Bring that man aft!" shouted the captain.  The second mate, who had been in the forecastle with these men the early part of the voyage, stood still in the waist, and the mate walked slowly forward; but our third officer, anxious to show his zeal, sprang forward over the windlass, and laid hold of John; but John soon threw him from him.  The captain stood on the quarter-deck, bareheaded, his eyes flashing with rage, and his face as red as blood, swinging the rope, and calling out to his officers:  "Drag him aft!--Lay hold of him!  I'll <HI REND="italics">sweeten</HI>
139.sgm: him!"  &amp;c., &amp;c.  The mate now went forward, and told John quietly to go aft; and he, seeing resistance vain, threw the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:black-guard third mate from him, said he would go aft of himself, that they should not drag him, and went up to the gangway and held out his hands; but as soon as the captain began to make him fast, the indignity was too much, and he struggled; but, the mate and Russell holding him, he was soon seized up.  When he was made fast, he turned to the captain, who stood rolling up his sleeves and getting ready for the blow, and asked him what he was to be flogged for.  "Have I ever refused my duty, sir?  Have you ever known me to hand back, or to be insolent, or not to know my work?"</p><P>"No," said the captain, "it is not that that I flog you for; I flog you for your interference, for asking questions."</p><P>"Can't a man ask a question here without being flogged?"</p><P>"No," shouted the captain; "nobody shall open his mouth aboard this vessel but myself," and began laying the blows upon his back, swinging half round between each blow, to give it full effect.  As he went on, his passion increased, and he danced about the deck, calling out, as he swung the rope: "If you want to know what I flog you for, I'll tell you.  It's because I like to do it!--because I like to do it!--It suits me!  That's what I do it for!"</p><P>The man writhed under the pain until he could endure it no longer, when he called out, with an exclamation more common among foreigners than with us: "O Jesus Christ! O Jesus Christ!"</p><P>"Don't call on Jesus Christ," shouted the captain; " <HI REND="italics">he can't help you.  Call on Frank Thompson</HI>
139.sgm:!  He's the man!  He can help you!  Jesus Christ can't help you now!"</p><P>At these words, which I never shall forget, my blood <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:ran cold.  I could look on no longer.  Disgusted, sick, I turned away, and leaned over the rail, and looked down into the water.  A few rapid thoughts, I don't know what, --our situation, a resolution to see the captain punished when we got home, --crossed my mind; but the falling of the blows and the cries of the man called me back once more.  At length they ceased, and, turning round, I found that the mate, at a signal from the captain, had cast him loose.  Almost doubled up with pain, the man walked slowly forward, and went down into the forecastle.  Every one else stood still at his post, while the captain, swelling with rage, and with the importance of his achievement, walked the quarter-deck, and at each turn, as he came forward, calling out to us: "You see your condition!  You see where I've got you all, and you know what to expect!"--"You've been mistaken in me; you didn't know what I was!  Now you know what I am!"--"I'll make you toe the mark, every soul of you, or I'll flog you all, fore and aft, from the boy up!"--"You've got a driver over you!  Yes, a <HI REND="italics">slave-driver, --a nigger-driver</HI>
139.sgm:!  I'll see who'll tell me he isn't a NIGGER slave!"  With this and the like matter, equally calculated to quiet us, and to allay any apprehensions of future trouble, he entertained us for about ten minutes, when he went below.  Soon after, John came aft, with his bare back covered with stripes and wales in every direction, and dreadfully swollen, and asked the steward to ask the captain to let him have some salve, or balsam, to put upon it.  "No," said the captain, who heard him from below; "tell him to put his shirt on; that's the best thing for him, and pull me ashore in the boat.  Nobody is going to lay-up on board this vessel."  He then called to Mr. Russell to take those two men and two others in the boat, and pull <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:him ashore.  I went for one.  The two men could hardly bend their backs, and the captain called to them to "give way," "give way!" but, finding they did their best, he let them alone.  The agent was in the stern sheets, but during the whole pull--a league or more--not a word was spoken.  We landed; the captain, agent, and officer went up to the house, and left us with the boat.  I, and the man with me, stayed near the boat, while John and Sam walked slowly away, and sat down on the rocks. They talked some time together, but at length separated, each sitting alone.  I had some fears of John.  He was a foreigner, and violently tempered, and under suffering; and he had his knife with him, and the captain was to come down alone to the boat.  But nothing happened; and we went quietly on board.  The captain was probably armed, and if either of them had lifted a hand against him, they would have had nothing before them but flight, and starvation in the woods of California, or capture by the soldiers and Indians, whom the offer of twenty dollars would have set upon them.</p><P>After the day's work was done, we went down into the forecastle, and ate our plain supper; but not a word was spoken.  It was Saturday night; but there was no song, --no "sweethearts and wives."  A gloom was over everything.  The two men lay in their berths, groaning with pain, and we all turned in, but, for myself, not to sleep.  A sound coming now and then from the berths of the two men showed that they were awake, as awake they must have been, for they could hardly lie in one posture long; the dim, swinging lamp shed its light over the dark hole in which we lived, and many and various reflections and purposes coursed through my mind.  I had no apprehension that the captain would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:try to lay a hand on me; but our situation, living under a tyranny, with an ungoverned, swaggering fellow administering it; of the character of the country we were in; the length of the voyage; the uncertainty attending our return to America; and then, if we should return, the prospect of obtaining justice and satisfaction for these poor men; and I vowed that, if God should ever give me the means, I would do something to redress the grievances and relieve the sufferings of that class of beings with whom my lot had so long been cast.</p><P>The next day was Sunday.  We worked, as usual, washing decks, &amp;c., until breakfast-time.  After breakfast we pulled the captain ashore, and, finding some hides there which had been brought down the night before, he ordered me to stay ashore and watch them, saying that the boat would come again before night.  They left me, and I spent a quiet day on the hill, eating dinner with the three men at the little house.  Unfortunately they had no books; and, after talking with them, and walking about, I began to grow tired of doing nothing.  The little brig, the home of so much hardship and suffering, lay in the offing, almost as far as one could see; and the only other thing which broke the surface of the great bay was a small, dreary-looking island, steep and conical, of a clayey soil, and without the sign of vegetable life upon it, yet which had a peculiar and melancholy interest, for on the top of it were buried the remains of an Englishman, the commander of a small merchant brig, who died while lying in this port.  It was always a solemn and affecting spot to me.  There it stood, desolate, and in the midst of desolation; and there were the remains of one who died and was buried alone and friendless.  Had it been a common burying-place, it would have been nothing.  The single body <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:corresponded well with the solitary character of everything around.  It was the only spot in California that impressed me with anything like poetic interest.  Then, too, the man died far from home, without a friend near him, --by poison, it was suspected, and no one to inquire into it, --and without proper funeral rites; the mate (as I was told), glad to have him out of the way, hurrying him up the hill and into the ground, without a word or a prayer.</p><P>I looked anxiously for a boat, during the latter part of the afternoon, but none came; until toward sundown, when I saw a speck on the water, and as it drew near I found it was the gig, with the captain.  The hides, then, were not to go off.  The captain came up the hill, with a man, bringing my monkey jacket and a blanket.  He looked pretty black, but inquired whether I had enough to eat; told me to make a house out of the hides, and keep myself warm, as I should have to sleep there among them, and to keep good watch over them.  I got a moment to speak to the man who brought my jacket.</p><P>"How do things go aboard?" said I.</p><P>"Bad enough," said he; "hard work and not a kind word spoken."</p><P>"What!" said I, "have you been at work all day?"</p><P>"Yes! no more Sunday for us.  Everything has been moved in the hold, from stem to stern, and from the water-ways to the keelson."</p><P>I went up to the house to supper.  We had fri&acute;joles (the perpetual food of the Californians, but which, when well cooked, are the best bean in the world), coffee made of burnt wheat, and hard bread.  After our meal, the three men sat down by the light of a tallow candle, with a pack of greasy Spanish cards, to the favorite game of "treinte uno," a sort of Spanish "everlasting."  I left <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:them and went out to take up my bivouac among the hides.  It was now dark; the vessel was hidden from sight, and except the three men in the house there was not a living soul within a league.  The coyotes (a wild animal of a nature and appearance between that of the fox and the wolf) set up their sharp, quick bark, and two owls, at the end of two distant points running out into the bay, on different sides of the hill where I lay, kept up their alternate dismal notes.  I had heard the sound before at night, but did not know what it was, until one of the men, who came down to look at my quarters, told me it was the owl.  Mellowed by the distance, and heard alone, at night, it was a most melancholy and boding sound.  Through nearly all the night they kept it up, answering one another slowly at regular intervals.  This was relieved by the noisy coyotes, some of which came quite near to my quarters, and were not very pleasant neighbors.  The next morning, before sunrise, the long-boat came ashore, and the hides were taken off.</p><P>We lay at San Pedro about a week, engaged in taking off hides and in other labors, which had now become our regular duties.  I spent one more day on the hill, watching a quantity of hides and goods, and this time succeeded in finding a part of a volume of Scott's Pirate in a corner of the house; but it failed me at a most interesting moment, and I betook myself to my acquaintances on shore, and from them learned a good deal about the customs of the country, the harbors, &amp;c.  This, they told me, was a worse harbor than Santa Barbara for southeasters, the bearing of the headland being a point and a half more to windward, and it being so shallow that the sea broke often as far out as where we lay at anchor.  The gale for which we slipped at Santa <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Barbara had been so bad a one here, that the whole bay, for a league out, was filled with the foam of the breakers, and seas actually broke over the Dead Man's Island.  The Lagoda was lying there, and slipped at the first alarm, and in such haste that she was obliged to leave her launch behind her at anchor.  The little boat rode it out for several hours, pitching at her anchor, and standing with her stern up almost perpendicularly.  The men told me that they watched her till towards night, when she snapped her cable and drove up over the breakers high and dry upon the beach.</p><P>On board the Pilgrim everything went on regularly, each one trying to get along as smoothly as possible; but the comfort of the voyage was evidently at an end.  "That is a long lane which has no turning,"  "Every dog must have his day, and mine will come by and by," and the like proverbs, were occasionally quoted; but no one spoke of any probable end to the voyage, or of Boston, or anything of the kind; or, if he did, it was only to draw out the perpetual surly reply from his shipmate: "Boston, is it?  You may thank your stars if you ever see that place.  You had better have your back sheathed, and your head coppered, and your feet shod, and make out your log for California for life!" or else something of this kind: "Before you get to Boston, the hides will wear all the hair off your head, and you'll take up all your wages in clothes, and won't have enough left to buy a wig with!"</p><P>The flogging was seldom, if ever, alluded to by us in the forecastle.  If any one was inclined to talk about it, the others, with a delicacy which I hardly expected to find among them, always stopped him, or turned the subject.  But the behavior of the two men who were flogged toward one another showed a consideration which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:would have been worthy of admiration in the highest walks of life.  Sam knew John had suffered solely on his account; and in all his complaints he said that, if he alone had been flogged, it would have been nothing; but he never could see him without thinking that he had been the means of bringing this disgrace upon him; and John never, by word or deed, let anything escape him to remind the other that it was by interfering to save his shipmate that he had suffered.  Neither made it a secret that they thought the Dutchman Bill and Foster might have helped them; but they did not expect it of Stimson or me.  While we showed our sympathy for their suffering, and our indignation at the captain's violence, we did not feel sure that there was only one side to the beginning of the difficulty, and we kept clear of any engagement with them, except our promise to help them when they got home.<ANCHOR ID="n15-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-11">Owing to the change of vessels that afterwards took place, Captain Thompson arrived in Boston nearly a year before the Pilgrim, and was off on another voyage, and beyond the reach of these men.  Soon after the publication of the first edition of this book, in 1841, I received a letter from Stimson, dated at Detroit, Michigan, where he had reentered mercantile life, from which I make this extract: "As to your account of the flogging scene, I think you have given a fair history of it, and, if anything, been too lenient towards Captain Thompson for his brutal, cowardly treatment of those men.  As I was in the hold at the time the affray commenced, I will give you a short history of it as near as I can recollect.  We were breaking out goods in the fore hold, and, in order to get at them, we had to shift our hides from forward to aft.  After having removed part of them, we came to the boxes, and attempted to get them out without moving any more of the hides.  While doing so, Sam accidentally hurt his hand, and, as usual, began swearing about it, and was not sparing of his oaths, although I think he was not aware that Captain Thompson was so near him at the time.  Captain Thompson asked him, in no moderate way, what was the matter with him.  Sam, on account of the impediment in his speech, could not answer immediately, although he endeavored to, but as soon as possible answered in a manner that almost any one would, under the like circumstances, yet, I believe, not with the intention of giving a short answer; but being provoked, and suffering pain from the injured hand, he perhaps answered rather short, or sullenly.  Thus commenced the scene you have so vividly described, and which seems to me exactly the history of the whole affair without any exaggeration."</NOTE>
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139.sgm:<P>Having got all our spare room filled with hides, we hove up our anchor, and made sail for San Diego.  In no operation can the disposition of a crew be better discovered than in getting under way.  Where things are done "with a will," every one is like a cat aloft; sails are loosed in an instant; each one lays out his strength on his handspike, and the windlass goes briskly round with the loud cry of "Yo heave ho!  Heave and pawl!  Heave hearty, ho!" and the chorus of "Cheerly, men!" cats the anchor.  But with us, at this time, it was all dragging work.  No one went aloft beyond his ordinary gait, and the chain came slowly in over the windlass.  The mate, between the knight-heads, exhausted all his official rhetoric in calls of "Heave with a will!"--"Heave hearty, men!--heave hearty!"--"Heave, and raise the dead!"--"Heave, and away!" &amp;c., &amp;c.; but it would not do.  Nobody broke his back or his hand-spike by his efforts.  And when the cat-tackle-fall was strung along, and all hands--cook, steward, and all--laid hold, to cat the anchor, instead of the lively song of "Cheerly, men!" in which all hands join in the chorus, we pulled a long, heavy, silent pull, and, as sailors say a song is as good as ten men, the anchor came to the cat-head pretty slowly.  "Give us 'Cheerly!'" said the mate; but there was no "cheerly" for us, and we did without it.  The captain walked the quarter-deck, and said not a word.  He must have seen the change, but there was nothing which he could notice officially.</p><P>We sailed leisurely down the coast before a light, fair <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:wind, keeping the land well aboard, and saw two other missions, looking like blocks of white plaster, shining in the distance; one of which, situated on the top of a high hill, was San Juan Capistrano, under which vessels sometimes come to anchor, in the summer season, and take off hides.  At sunset on the second day we had a large and well-wooded headland directly before us, behind which lay the little harbor of San Diego.  We were becalmed off this point all night, but the next morning, which was Saturday, the 14th of March, having a good breeze, we stood round the point, and, hauling our wind, brought the little harbor, which is rather the outlet of a small river, right before us.  Every one was desirous to get a view of the new place.  A chain of high hills, beginning at the point (which was on our larboard hand coming in), protected the harbor on the north and west, and ran off into the interior, as far as the eye could reach.  On the other sides the land was low and green, but without trees.  The entrance is so narrow as to admit but one vessel at a time, the current swift, and the channel runs so near to a low, stony point that the ship's sides appeared almost to touch it.  There was no town in sight, but on the smooth sand beach, abreast, and within a cable's length of which three vessels lay moored, were four large houses, built of rough boards, and looking like the great barns in which ice is stored on the borders of the large ponds near Boston, with piles of hides standing round them, and men in red shirts and large straw hats walking in and out of the doors.  These were the Hide Houses.  Of the vessels: one, a short, clumsy little hermaphrodite brig, we recognized as our old acquaintance, the Loriotte: another, with sharp bows and raking masts, newly painted and tarred, and glittering in the morning sun, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:with the blood-red banner and cross of St. George at her peak, was the handsome Ayacucho.  The third was a large ship, with top-gallant-masts housed and sails unbent, and looking as rusty and worn as two years' "hide droghing" could make her.  This was the Lagoda.  As we drew near, carried rapidly along by the current, we overhauled our chain, and clewed up the topsails.  "Let go the anchor!" said the captain; but either there was not chain enough forward of the wind-lass, or the anchor went down foul, or we had too much headway on, for it did not bring us up.  "Pay out chain!" shouted the captain; and we gave it to her; but it would not do.  Before the other anchor could be let go, we drifted down, broadside on, and went smash into the Lagoda.  Her crew were at breakfast in the forecastle, and her cook, seeing us coming, rushed out of his galley, and called up the officers and men.</p><P>Fortunately, no great harm was done.  Her jib-boom passed between our fore and main masts, carrying away some of our rigging, and breaking down the rail.  She lost her martingale.  This brought us up, and, as they paid out chain, we swung clear of them, and let go the other anchor; but this had as bad luck as the first, for, before any one perceived it, we were drifting down upon the Loriotte.  The captain now gave out his orders rapidly and fiercely, sheeting home the topsails, and backing and filling the sails, in hope of starting or clearing the anchors; but it was all in vain, and he sat down on the rail, taking it very leisurely, and calling out to Captain Nye that he was coming to pay him a visit.  We drifted fairly into the Loriotte, her larboard bow into our starboard quarter, carrying away a part of our starboard quarter railing, and breaking off her larboard bumpkin, and one or two stanchions above the deck.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:We saw our handsome sailor, Jackson, on the forecastle, with the Sandwich-Islanders, working away to get us clear.  After paying out chain, we swung clear, but our anchors were, no doubt, afoul of hers.  We manned the windlass, and hove, and hove away, but to no purpose.  Sometimes we got a little upon the cable, but a good surge would take it all back again.  We now began to drift down toward the Ayacucho; when her boat put off, and brought her commander, Captain Wilson, on board.  He was a short, active, well-built man, about fifty years of age; and being some twenty years older than our captain, and a thorough seaman, he did not hesitate to give his advice, and, from giving advice, he gradually came to taking the command; ordering us when to heave and when to pawl, and backing and filling the topsails, setting and taking in jib and trysail, whenever he thought best.  Our captain gave a few orders, but as Wilson generally countermanded them, saying, in an easy, fatherly kind of way, "O no! Captain Thompson, you don't want the jib on her," or "It isn't time yet to heave!" he soon gave it up.  We had no objections to this state of things, for Wilson was a kind man, and had an encouraging and pleasant way of speaking to us, which made everything go easily.  After two or three hours of constant labor at the windlass, heaving and yo-ho-ing with all our might, we brought up an anchor, with the Loriotte's small bower fast to it.  Having cleared this, and let it go, and cleared our hawse, we got our other anchor, which had dragged half over the harbor.  "Now," said Wilson, "I'll find you a good berth"; and, setting both the topsails, he carried us down, and brought us to anchor, in handsome style, directly abreast of the hide-house which we were to use.  Having done this, he took his leave, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:while we furled the sails, and got our breakfast, which was welcome to us, for we had worked hard, and eaten nothing since yesterday afternoon, and it was nearly twelve o'clock.  After breakfast, and until night, we were employed in getting out the boats and mooring ship.</p><P>After supper, two of us took the captain on board the Lagoda.  As he came alongside, he gave his name, and the mate, in the gangway, called out to Captain Bradshaw, down the companion-way, "Captain Thompson has come aboard, sir!"  "Has he brought his brig with him?" asked the rough old fellow, in a tone which made itself heard fore and aft.  This mortified our captain not a little, and it became a standing joke among us, and, indeed, over the coast, for the rest of the voyage.  The captain went down into the cabin, and we walked forward and put our heads down the forecastle, where we found the men at supper.  "Come down, shipmates!<ANCHOR ID="n15-12">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: come down!" said they, as soon as they saw us; and we went down, and found a large, high forecastle, well lighted, and a crew of twelve or fourteen men eating out of their kids and pans, and drinking their tea, and talking and laughing, all as independent and easy as so many "woodsawyer's clerks."  This looked like comfort and enjoyment, compared with the dark little forecastle, and scanty, discontented crew of the brig.  It was Saturday night; they had got through their work for the week, and, being snugly moored, had nothing to do until Monday again.  After two years' hard service, they had seen the worst, and all, of California; had got their cargo nearly stowed, and expected to sail, in a week or two, for Boston.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-12">"Shipmate" is the term by which sailors address one another when not acquainted.</NOTE>
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139.sgm:<P>We spent an hour or more with them, talking over California matters, until the word was passed, --"Pilgrims, away!" and we went back to our brig.  The Lagodas were a hardy, intelligent set, a little roughened, and their clothes patched and old, from California wear; all able seamen, and between the ages of twenty and thirty-five or forty.  They inquired about our vessel, the usage on board, &amp;c., and were not a little surprised at the story of the flogging.  They said there were often difficulties in vessels on the coast, and sometimes knock-downs and fightings, but they had never heard before of a regular seizing-up and flogging.  "Spread eagles" were a new kind of bird in California.</p><P>Sunday, they said, was always given in San Diego, both at the hide-houses and on board the vessels, a large number usually going up to the town, on liberty.  We learned a good deal from them about the curing and stowing of hides, &amp;c., and they were desirous to have the latest news (seven months old) from Boston.  One of their first inquiries was for Father Taylor, the seamen's preacher in Boston.  Then followed the usual strain of conversation, inquiries, stories, and jokes, which one must always hear in a ship's forecastle, but which are, perhaps, after all, no worse, though more gross and coarse, than those one may chance to hear from some well dressed gentlemen around their tables.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THE next day being Sunday, after washing and clearing decks, and getting breakfast, the mate came forward with leave for one watch to go ashore, on liberty.  We drew lots, and it fell to the larboard, which I was in.  Instantly all was preparation.  Buckets of fresh water (which we were allowed in port), and soap, were put in use; go-ashore jackets and trousers got out and brushed; pumps, neckerchiefs, and hats overhauled, one lending to another; so that among the whole each got a good fit-out.  A boat was called to pull the "liberty-men" ashore, and we sat down in the stern sheets, "as big as pay-passengers," and, jumping ashore, set out on our walk for the town, which was nearly three miles off.</p><P>It is a pity that some other arrangement is not made in merchant vessels with regard to the liberty-day.  When in port, the crews are kept at work all the week, and the only day they are allowed for rest or pleasure is Sunday; and unless they go ashore on that day, they cannot go at all.  I have heard of a religious captain who gave his crew liberty on Saturdays, after twelve o'clock.  This would be a good plan, if shipmasters would bring themselves to give their crews so much time.  For <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:young sailors especially, many of whom have been brought up with a regard for the sacredness of the day, this strong temptation to break it is exceedingly injurious.  As it is, it can hardly be expected that a crew, on a long and hard voyage, will refuse a few hours of freedom from toil and the restraints of a vessel, and an opportunity to tread the ground and see the sights of society and humanity, because it is a Sunday.  They feel no objection to being drawn out of a pit on the Sabbath day.</p><P>I shall never forget the delightful sensation of being in the open air, with the birds singing around me, and escaped from the confinement, labor, and strict rule of a vessel, --of being once more in my life, though only for a day, my own master.  A sailor's liberty is but for a day; yet while it lasts it is entire.  He is under no one's eye, and can do whatever, and go wherever, he pleases.  This day, for the first time, I may truly say, in my whole life, I felt the meaning of a term which I had often heard, --the sweets of liberty.  Stimson was with me, and , turning our backs upon the vessels, we walked slowly along, talking of the pleasure of being our own masters, of the times past, when we were free and in the midst of friends, in America, and of the prospect of our return; and planning where we would go, and what we would do, when we reached home.  It was wonderful how the prospect brightened, and how short and tolerable the voyage appeared, when viewed in this new light.  Things looked differently from what they did when we talked them over in the little dark forecastle, the night after the flogging, at San Pedro.  It is not the least of the advantages of allowing sailors occasionally a day of liberty, that it gives them a spring, and makes them feel cheerful and independent, and leads them insensibly to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:look on the bright side of everything for some time after.</p><P>Stimson and I determined to keep as much together as possible, though we knew that it would not do to <HI REND="italics">cut</HI>
139.sgm: our shipmates; for, knowing our birth and education, they were a little suspicious that we would try to put on the gentleman when we got ashore, and would be ashamed of their company; and this won't do with Jack.  When the voyage is at an end, you do as you please; but so long as you belong to the same vessel, you must be a shipmate to him on shore, or he will not be a shipmate to you on board.  Being forewarned of this before I went to sea, I took no "long togs" with me; and being dressed like the rest, in white duck trousers, blue jacket, and straw hat, which would prevent my going into better company, and showing no disposition to avoid them, I set all suspicion at rest.  Our crew fell in with some who belonged to the other vessels, and, sailor-like, steered for the first grog-shop.  This was a small adobe building, of only one room, in which were liquors, "drygoods," West India goods, shoes, bread, fruits, and everything which is vendible in California.  It was kept by a Yankee, a one-eyed man, who belonged formerly to Fall River, came out to the Pacific in a whale-ship left her at the Sandwich Islands, and came to California and set up a pulperia.  Stimson and I followed in our shipmates' wake, knowing that to refuse to drink with them would be the highest affront, but determining to slip away at the first opportunity.  It is the universal custom with sailors for each one, in his turn, to treat the whole, calling for a glass all round, and obliging every one who is present, even to the keeper of the shop, to take a glass with him.  When we first came in, there was some dispute between our crew and the others, whether the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:new-comers or the old California rangers should treat first; but it being settled in favor of the latter, each of the crews of the other vessels treated all round in their turn, and as there were a good many present (including some "loafers" who had dropped in, knowing what was going on, to take advantage of Jack's hospitality), and the liquor was a real (12 1/2 cents) a glass, it made somewhat of a hole in their lockers.  It was now our ship's turn, and Stimson and I, desirous to get away, stepped up to call for glasses; but we soon found that we must go in order, --the oldest first, for the old sailors did not choose to be preceded by a couple of youngsters; and <HI REND="italics">bon gre&acute;, mal gre&acute;</HI>
139.sgm:, we had to wait our turn, with the twofold apprehension of being too late for our horses, and of getting too much; for drink you must, every time; and if you drink with one, and not with another, it is always taken as an insult.</p><P>Having at length gone through our turns and acquitted ourselves of all obligations, we slipped out, and went about among the houses, endeavoring to find horses for the day, so that we might ride round and see the country.  At first we had but little success, all that we could get out of the lazy fellows, in reply to our questions, being the eternal drawling <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
139.sgm:?  ("Who knows?") which is an answer to all questions.  After several efforts, we at length fell in with a little Sandwich Island boy, who belonged to Captain Wilson, of the Ayacucho, and was well acquainted in the place; and he, knowing where to go, soon procured us two horses, ready saddled and bridled, each with a lasso coiled over the pommel.  These we were to have all day, with the privilege of riding them down to the beach at night, for a dollar, which we had to pay in advance.  Horses are the cheapest thing in California; very fair ones not being worth more than ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:dollars apiece, and the poorer being often sold for three and four.  In taking a day's ride, you pay for the use of the saddle, and for the labor and trouble of catching the horses.  If you bring the saddle back safe, they care but little what becomes of the horse.  Mounted on our horses, which were spirited beasts (and which, by the way, in this country, are always steered in the cavalry fashion, by pressing the contrary rein against the neck, and not by pulling on the bit), we started off on a fine run over the country.  The first place we went to was the old ruinous presidio, which stands on a rising ground near the village, which it overlooks.  It is built in the form of an open square, like all the other presidios, and was in a most ruinous state, with the exception of one side, in which the commandant lived, with his family.  There were only two guns, one of which was spiked, and the other had no carriage.  Twelve half-clothed and half-starved looking fellows composed the garrison; and they, it was said, had not a musket apiece.  The small settlement lay directly below the fort, composed of about forty dark brown looking huts, or houses, and three or four larger ones, whitewashed, which belonged to the "gente de razon."  This town is not more than half as large as Monterey, or Santa Barbara, and has little or no business.  From the presidio, we rode off in the direction of the Mission, which we were told was three miles distant.  The country was rather sandy, and there was nothing for miles which could be called a tree, but the grass grew green and rank, there were many bushes and thickets, and the soil is said to be good.  After a pleasant ride of a couple of miles, we saw the white walls of the Mission, and, fording a small stream, we came directly before it.  The Mission is built of adobe and plastered.  There was something decidedly striking in its appearance: a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:number of irregular buildings, connected with one another, and, disposed in the form of a hollow square, with a church at one end, rising above the rest, with a tower containing five belfries, in each of which hung a large bell, and with very large rusty iron crosses at the tops.  Just outside of the buildings, and under the walls, stood twenty or thirty small huts, built of straw and of the branches of trees, grouped together, in which a few Indians lived, under the protection and in the service of the Mission.</p><P>Entering a gateway, we drove into the open square, in which the stillness of death reigned.  On one side was the church; on another, a range of high buildings with grated windows; a third was a range of smaller buildings, or offices, and the fourth seemed to be little more than a high connecting wall.  Not a living creature could we see.  We rode twice round the square, in the hope of waking up some one; and in one circuit saw a tall monk, with shaven head, sandals, and the dress of the Gray Friars, pass rapidly through a gallery, but he disappeared without noticing us.  After two circuits, we stopped our horses, and at last a man showed himself in front of one of the small buildings.  We rode up to him, and found him dressed in the common dress of the country, with a silver chain round his neck, supporting a large bunch of keys.  From this, we took him to be the steward of the Mission, and, addressing him as "Mayor-domo," received a low bow and an invitation to walk into his room.  Making our horses fast, we went in.  It was a plain room, containing a table, three or four chairs, a small picture or two of some saint, or miracle, or martyrdom, and a few dishes and glasses.  "Hay alguna cosa de comer?" said I, from my grammar.  "Si, Sen&tilde;or!" said he.  "Que gusta usted?"  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Mentioning fri&acute;joles, which I knew they must have if they had nothing else, and beef and bread, with a hint for wine, if they had any, he went off to another building across the court, and returned in a few minutes with a couple of Indian boys bearing dishes and a decanter of wine.  The dishes contained baked meats, fri&acute;joles stewed with peppers and onions, boiled eggs, and California flour baked into a kind of macaroni.  These, together with the wine, made the most sumptuous meal we had eaten since we left Boston; and, compared with the fare we had lived upon for seven months, it was a regal banquet.  After despatching it, we took out some money and asked him how much we were to pay.  He shook his head, and crossed himself, saying that it was charity, --that the Lord gave it to us.  Knowing the amount of this to be that he did not sell, but was willing to receive a present, we gave him ten or twelve reals, which he pocketed with admirable nonchalance, saying, "Dios se lo pague."  Taking leave of him, we rode out to the Indians' huts.  The little children were running about among the huts, stark naked, and the men were not much more; but the women had generally coarse gowns of a sort of tow cloth.  The men are employed, most of the time, in tending the cattle of the Mission, and in working in the garden, which is a very large one, including several acres, and filled, it is said, with the best fruits of the climate.  The language of these people, which is spoken by all the Indians of California, is the most brutish, without any exception, that I ever heard, or that could well be conceived of.  It is a complete <HI REND="italics">slabber</HI>
139.sgm:.  The words fall off of the ends of their tongues, and a continual slabbering sound is made in the cheeks, outside of the teeth.  It cannot have been the language of Montezuma and the independent Mexicans.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>Here, among the huts, we saw the oldest man that I had ever met with; and, indeed, I never supposed that a person could retain life and exhibit such marks of age.  He was sitting out in the sun, leaning against the side of a hut; and his legs and arms, which were bare, were of a dark red color, the skin withered and shrunk up like burnt leather, and the limbs not larger round than those of a boy of five years.  He had a few gray hairs, which were tied together at the back of his head, and he was so feeble that, when we came up to him, he raised his hands slowly to his face, and, taking hold of his lids with his fingers, lifted them up to look at us; and, being satisfied, let them drop again.  All command over the lids seemed to have gone.  I asked his age, but could get no answer but "Quien sabe?" and they probably did not know it.</p><P>Leaving the Mission, we returned to the village, going nearly all the way on a full run.  The California horses have no medium gait, which is pleasant, between walking and running; for as there are no streets and parades, they have no need of the genteel trot, and their riders usually keep them at the top of their speed until they are tired, and then let them rest themselves by walking.  The fine air of the afternoon, the rapid gait of the animals, who seemed almost to fly over the ground, and the excitement and novelty of the motion to us, who had been long confined on shipboard, were exhilarating beyond expression, and we felt willing to ride all day long.  Coming into the village, we found things looking very lively.  The Indians, who always have a holiday on Sunday, were engaged at playing a kind of running game of ball, on a level piece of ground, near the houses.  The old ones sat down in a ring, looking on, while the young ones--men, boys, and girls--were chasing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:ball, and throwing it with all their might.  Some of the girls ran like greyhounds.  At every accident, or remarkable feat, the old people set up a deafening screaming and clapping of hands.  Several blue jackets were reeling about among the houses, which showed that the pulperi&acute;as had been well patronized.  One or two of the sailors had got on horseback, but being rather indifferent horsemen, and the Mexicans having given them vicious beasts, they were soon thrown, much to the amusement of the people.  A half-dozen Sandwich-Islanders, from the hide-houses and the two brigs, bold riders, were dashing about on the full gallop, hallooing and laughing like so many wild men.</p><P>It was now nearly sundown, and Stimson and I went into a house and sat quietly down to rest ourselves before going to the beach.  Several people soon collected to see "los marineros ingleses," and one of them, a young woman, took a great fancy to my pocket-handkerchief, which was a large silk one that I had before going to sea, and a handsomer one than they had been in the habit of seeing.  Of course, I gave it to her, which brought me into high favor; and we had a present of some pears and other fruits, which we took down to the beach with us.  When we came to leave the house, we found that our horses, which we had tied at the door, were both gone.  We had paid for them to ride down to the beach, but they were not to be found.  We went to the man of whom we hired them, but he only shrugged his shoulders, and to our question, "Where are the horses?" only answered, "Quien sabe?" but as he was very easy, and made no inquiries for the saddles, we saw that he knew very well where they were.  After a little trouble, determined not to walk to the beach, --a distance of three miles, --we procured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:two, at four reals more apiece, with two Indian boys to run behind and bring them back.  Determined to have "the go" out of the horses, for our trouble, we went down at full speed, and were on the beach in a few minutes.  Wishing to make our liberty last as long as possible, we rode up and down among the hide-houses, amusing ourselves with seeing the men as they arrived (it was now dusk), some on horseback and others on foot.  The Sandwich-Islanders rode down, and were in "high snuff."  We inquired for our shipmates, and were told that two of them had started on horseback, and been thrown, or had fallen off, and were seen heading for the beach, but steering pretty wild, and, by the looks of things, would not be down much before midnight.</p><P>The Indian boys having arrived, we gave them our horses, and, having seen them safely off, hailed for a boat, and went aboard.  Thus ended our first liberty-day on shore.  We were well tired, but had had a good time, and were more willing to go back to our old duties.  About midnight we were waked up by our two watchmates, who had come aboard in high dispute.  It seems they had started to come down on the same horse, double-backed; and each was accusing the other of being the cause of his fall.  They soon, however, turned-in and fell asleep, and probably forgot all about it, for the next morning the dispute was not renewed.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THE next sound that we heard was "All hands ahoy!" and, looking up the scuttle, saw that it was just daylight.  Our liberty had now truly taken flight, and with it we laid away our pumps, stockings, blue jackets, neckerchiefs, and other go-ashore paraphernalia, and putting on old duck trousers, red shirts, and Scotch caps, began taking out and landing our hides.  For three days we were hard at work in this duty, from the gray of the morning until starlight, with the exception of a short time allowed for meals.  For landing and taking on board hides, San Diego is decidedly the best place in California.  The harbor is small and land-locked; there is no surf; the vessels lie within a cable's length of the beach, and the beach itself is smooth, hard sand, without rocks or stones.  For these reasons, it is used by all the vessels in the trade as a depot; and, indeed, it would be impossible, when loading with the cured hides for the passage home, to take them on board at any of the open ports, without getting them wet in the surf, which would spoil them.  We took possession of one of the hide-houses, which belonged to our firm, and had been used by the California.  It was built to hold forty thousand hides, and we had the pleasing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:prospect of filling it before we could leave the coast; and toward this our thirty-five hundred, which we brought down with us, would do but little.  There was scarce a man on board who did not go often into the house, looking round, reflecting, and making some calculation of the time it would require.</p><P>The hides, as they come rough and uncured from the vessels, are piled up outside of the houses, whence they are taken and carried through a regular process of pickling, drying, and cleaning, and stowed away in the house, ready to be put on board.  This process is necessary in order that they may keep during a long voyage and in warm latitudes.  For the purpose of curing and taking care of them, an officer and a part of the crew of each vessel are usually left ashore; and it was for this business, we found, that our new officer had joined us.  As soon as the hides were landed, he took charge of the house, and the captain intended to leave two or three of us with him, hiring Sandwich-Islanders in our places on board; but he could not get any Sandwich-Islanders to go, although he offered them fifteen dollars a month; for the report of the flogging had got among them, and he was called "aole maikai" (no good); and that was an end of the business.  They were, however, willing to work on shore, and four of them were hired and put with <HI REND="italics">Mr</HI>
139.sgm:. Russell to cure the hides.</p><P>After landing our hides, we next sent ashore our spare spars and rigging, all the stores which we did not need in the course of one trip to windward, and, in fact, everything which we could spare, so as to make room on board for hides; among other things, the pigsty, and with it "old Bess."  This was an old sow that we had brought from Boston, and who lived to get round Cape Horn, where all the other pigs died from cold and wet.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Report said that she had been a Canton voyage before.  She had been the pet of the cook during the whole passage, and he had fed her with the best of everything, and taught her to know his voice, and to do a number of strange tricks for his amusement.  Tom Cringle says that no one can fathom a negro's affection for a pig; and I believe he is right, for it almost broke our poor darky's heart when he heard that Bess was to be taken ashore, and that he was to have the care of her no more.  He had depended upon her as a solace, during the long trips up and down the coast.  "Obey orders, if you break owners!" said he, --"break <HI REND="italics">hearts</HI>
139.sgm:," he might have said, --and lent a hand to get her over the side, trying to make it as easy for her as possible.  We got a whip on the main-yard, and, hooking it to a strap round her body, swayed away, and, giving a wink to one another, ran her chock up to the yard-arm.  "'Vast there! 'vast!" said the mate; "none of your skylarking!  Lower away!"  But he evidently enjoyed the joke.  The pig squealed like the "crack of doom," and tears stood in the poor darky's eyes; and he muttered something about having no pity on a dumb beast.  " <HI REND="italics">Dumb</HI>
139.sgm: beast!" said Jack, "if she's what you call a dumb beast, then my eyes a'n't mates."  This produced a laugh from all but the cook.  He was too intent upon seeing her safe in the boat.  He watched her all the way ashore, where, upon her landing, she was received by a whole troop of her kind, who had been set ashore from the other vessels, and had multiplied and formed a large commonwealth.  From the door of his galley the cook used to watch them in their man&oelig;uvres, setting up a shout and clapping his hands whenever Bess came off victorious in the struggles for pieces of raw hide and half-picked bones which were lying about the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:beach.  During the day, he saved all the nice things, and made a bucket of swill, and asked us to take it ashore in the gig, and looked quite disconcerted when the mate told him that he would pitch the swill overboard, and him after it, if he saw any of it go into the boats.  We told him that he thought more about the pig than he did about his wife, who lived down in Robinson's Alley; and, indeed, he could hardly have been more attentive, for he actually, on several nights, after dark, when he thought he would not be seen, sculled himself ashore in a boat, with a bucket of nice swill, and returned like Leander from crossing the Hellespont.</p><P>The next Sunday the other half of our crew went ashore on liberty, and left us on board, to enjoy the first quiet Sunday we had had upon the coast.  Here were no hides to come off, and no southeasters to fear.  We washed and mended our clothes in the morning, and spent the rest of the day in reading and writing.  Several of us wrote letters to send home by the Lagoda.  At twelve o'clock, the Ayacucho dropped her fore topsail, which was a signal for her sailing.  She unmoored and warped down into the bight, from which she got under way.  During this operation her crew were a long time heaving at the windlass, and I listened to the musical notes of a Sandwich-Islander named Mahanna, who "sang out" for them.  Sailors, when heaving at a windlass, in order that they may heave together, always have one to sing out, which is done in high and long-drawn notes, varying with the motion of the windlass.  This requires a clear voice, strong lungs, and much practice, to be done well.  This fellow had a very peculiar, wild sort of note, breaking occasionally into a falsetto.  The sailors thought that it was too high, and not enough of the boatswain hoarseness about it; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:to me it had a great charm.  The harbor was perfectly still, and his voice rang among the hills as though it could have been heard for miles.  Toward sundown, a good breeze having sprung up, the Ayacucho got under way, and with her long, sharp head cutting elegantly through the water on a taut bowline, she stood directly out of the harbor, and bore away to the southward.  She was bound to Callao, and thence to the Sandwich Islands, and expected to be on the coast again in eight or ten months.</p><P>At the close of the week we were ready to sail, but were delayed a day or two by the running away of Foster, the man who had been our second mate and was turned forward.  From the time that he was "broken," he had had a dog's berth on board the vessel, and determined to run away at the first opportunity.  Having shipped for an officer when he was not half a seaman, he found little pity with the crew, and was not man enough to hold his ground among them.  The captain called him a "soger,"<ANCHOR ID="n17-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: and promised to "ride him down as he would the main tack"; and when officers are once determined to "ride a man down," it is a gone case with him.  He had had several difficulties with the captain, and asked leave to go home in the Lagoda; but this was refused him.  One night he was insolent to an officer on the beach, and refused to come aboard in the boat.  He was reported to the captain; and, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:he came aboard, --it being past the proper hour--he was called aft, and told that he was to have a flogging.  Immediately he fell down on deck, calling out, "Don't flog me, Captain Thompson, don't flog me!" and the captain, angry and disgusted with him, gave him a few blows over the back with a rope's end, and sent him forward.  He was not much hurt, but a good deal frightened, and made up his mind to run away that night.  This was managed better than anything he ever did in his life, and seemed really to show some spirit and forethought.  He gave his bedding and mattress to one of the Lagoda's crew, who promised to keep it for him, and took it aboard his ship as something which he had bought.  He then unpacked his chest, putting all his valuable clothes into a large canvas bag, and told one of us who had the watch to call him at midnight.  Coming on deck at midnight, and finding no officer on deck, and all still aft, he lowered his bag into a boat, got softly down into it, cast off the painter, and let it drop down silently with the tide until he was out of hearing, when he sculled ashore.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-11"><HI REND="italics">Soger</HI>
139.sgm: (soldier) is the worst term of reproach that can be applied to a sailor.  It signifies a <HI REND="italics">skulk</HI>
139.sgm:, a <HI REND="italics">shirk</HI>
139.sgm:<P>The next morning, when all hands were mustered, there was a great stir to find Foster.  Of course, we would tell nothing, and all they could discover was that he had left an empty chest behind him, and that he went off in a boat; for they saw the boat lying high and dry on the beach.  After breakfast, the captain went up to the town, and offered a reward of twenty dollars for him; and for a couple of days the soldiers, Indians, and all others who had nothing to do, were scouring the country for him, on horseback, but without effect; for he was safely concealed, all the time, within fifty rods of thd hide-houses.  As soon as he had landed, he went directly to the Lagoda's hide-house, and a part <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of her crew, who were living there on shore, promised to conceal him and his <HI REND="italics">traps</HI>
139.sgm: until the Pilgrim should sail, and then to intercede with Captain Bradshaw to take him on board his ship.  Just behind the hide-houses, among the thickets and underwood, was a small cave, the entrance to which was known only to two men on the beach, and which was so well concealed that though, when I afterwards came to live on shore, it was shown to me two or three times, I was never able to find it alone.  To this cave he was carried before daybreak in the morning, and supplied with bread and water, and there remained until he saw us under way and well round the point.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, March 27th</HI>
139.sgm:.  The captain having given up all hope of finding Foster, and being unwilling to delay any longer, gave orders for unmooring ship, and we made sail, dropping slowly down with the tide and light wind.  We left letters with Captain Bradshaw to take to Boston, and were made miserable by hearing him say that he should be back again before we left the coast.  The wind, which was very light, died away soon after we doubled the point, and we lay becalmed for two days, not moving three miles the whole time, and a part of the second day were almost within sight of the vessels.  On the third day, about noon, a cool sea-breeze came rippling and darkening the surface of the water, and by sundown we were off San Juan, which is about forty miles from San Diego, and is called half-way to San Pedro, where we were bound.  Our crew was now considerably weakened.  One man we had lost overboard, another had been taken aft as clerk, and a third had run away; so that, beside Stimson and myself, there were only three able seamen and one boy of twelve years of age.  With this diminished and discontented crew, and in a small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:vessel, we were now to battle the watch through a couple of years of hard service; yet there was not one who was not glad that Foster had escaped; for, shiftless and good for nothing as he was, no one could wish to see him dragging on a miserable life, cowed down and disheartened; and we were all rejoiced to hear, upon our return to San Diego, about two months afterwards, that he had been immediately taken aboard the Lagoda, and had gone home in her, on regular seaman's wages.</p><P>After a slow passage of five days, we arrived on Wednesday, the first of April, at our old anchoring-ground at San Pedro.  The bay was as deserted and looked as dreary as before, and formed no pleasing contrast with the security and snugness of San Diego, and the activity and interest which the loading and unloading of four vessels gave to that scene.  In a few days the hides began to come slowly down, and we got into the old business of rolling goods up the hill, pitching hides down, and pulling our long league off and on.  Nothing of note occurred while we were lying here, except that an attempt was made to repair the small Mexican brig which had been cast away in a southeaster, and which now lay up, high and dry, over one reef of rocks and two sand-banks.  Our carpenter surveyed her, and pronounced her capable of being refitted, and in a few days the owners came down from the Pueblo, and having waited for the high spring tides, with the help of our cables, kedges, and crew, hauled her off after several trials.  The three men at the house on shore, who had formerly been a part of her crew, now joined her, and seemed glad enough at the prospect of getting off the coast.</p><P>On board our own vessel, things went on in the common monotonous way.  The excitement which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:immediately followed the flogging scene had passed off, but the effect of it upon the crew, and especially upon the two men themselves, remained.  The different manner in which these men were affected, corresponding to their different characters, was not a little remarkable.  John was a foreigner and high-tempered, and though mortified, as any one would be at having had the worst of an encounter, yet his chief feeling seemed to be anger; and he talked much of satisfaction and revenge, if he ever got back to Boston.  But with the other it was very different.  He was an American, and had had some education; and this thing coming upon him seemed completely to break him down.  He had a feeling of the degradation that had been inflicted upon him, which the other man was incapable of.  Before that, he had a good deal of fun in him, and amused us often with queer negro stories (he was from a Slave State); but afterwards he seldom smiled, seemed to lose all life and elasticity, and appeared to have but one wish, and that was for the voyage to be at an end.  I have often known to draw a long sigh when he was alone, and he took but little part or interest in John's plans of satisfaction and retaliation.</p><P>After a stay of about a fortnight, during which we slipped for one southeaster, and were at sea two days, we got under way for Santa Barbara.  It was now the middle of April, the southeaster season was nearly over, and the light, regular winds, which blow down the coast, began to set steadily in, during the latter part of each day.  Against these we beat slowly up to Santa Barbara--a distance of about ninety miles--in three days.  There we found, lying at anchor, the large Genoese ship which we saw in the same place on the first day of our coming upon the coast.  She had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:up to San Francisco, or, as it is called, "chock up to windward," had stopped at Monterey on her way down, and was shortly to proceed to San Pedro and San Diego, and thence, taking in her cargo, to sail for Valparaiso and Cadiz.  She was a large, clumsy ship, and, with her topmasts stayed forward, and high poop-deck, looked like an old woman with a crippled back.  It was now the close of Lent, and on Good Friday she had all her yards a'-cock-bill, which is customary among Catholic vessels.  Some also have an effigy of Judas, which the crew amuse themselves with keel-hauling and hanging by the neck from the yard-arms.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THE next Sunday was Easter, and as there had been no liberty at San Pedro, it was our turn to go ashore and misspend another Sunday.  Soon after breakfast, a large boat, filled with men in blue jackets, scarlet caps, and various-colored under-clothes, bound ashore on liberty, left the Italian ship, and passed under our stern, the men singing beautiful Italian boat-songs all the way, in fine, full chorus.  Among the songs I recognized the favorite, "O Pescator dell' onda."  It brought back to my mind piano-fortes, drawing-rooms, young ladies singing, and a thousand other things which as little befitted me, in my situation, to be thinking upon.  Supposing that the whole day would be too long a time to spend ashore, as there was no place to which we could take a ride, we remained quietly on board until after dinner.  We were then pulled ashore in the stern of the boat, --for it is a point with liberty-men to be pulled off and back as passengers by their shipmates, --and, with orders to be on the beach at sundown, we took our way for the town.  There, everything wore the appearance of a holiday.  The people were dressed in their best; the men riding about among the houses, and the women sitting on carpets before the doors.  Under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:the piazza of a pulperi&acute;a two men were seated, decked out with knots of ribbons and bouquets, and playing the violin and the Spanish guitar.  These are the only instruments, with the exception of the drums and trumpets at Monterey, that I ever heard in California; and I suspect they play upon no others, for at a great <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
139.sgm: at which I was afterwards present, and where they mustered all the music they could find, there violins and two guitars, and no other instruments.  As it was now too near the middle of the day to see any dancing, and hearing that a bull was expected down from the country, to be baited in the presidio square, in the course of an hour or two, we took a stroll among the houses.  Inquiring for an American who, we had been told, had married in the place, and kept a shop, we were directed to a long, low building, at the end of which was a door, with a sign over it, in Spanish.  Entering the shop, we found no one in it, and the whole had an empty, deserted air.  In a few minutes the man made his appearance, and apologized for having nothing to entertain us with, saying that he had had a fandango at his house the night before, and the people had eaten and drunk up everything.</p><P>"O yes!" said I, "Easter holidays!"</p><P>"No!" said he, with a singular expression on his face; "I had a little daughter die the other day, and that's the custom of the country."</p><P>At this I felt somewhat awkwardly, not knowing what to say, and whether to offer consolation or not, and was beginning to retire, when he opened a side-door and told us to walk in.  Here I was no less astonished; for I found a large room, filled with young girls, from three or four years of age up to fifteen and sixteen, dressed all in white, with wreaths of flowers on their heads, and bouquets in their hands.  Following our conductor among <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:these girls, who were playing about in high spirits, we came to a table, at the end of the room, covered with a white cloth, on which lay a coffin, about three feet long, with the body of his child.  The coffin was covered with white cloth, and lined with white satin, and was strewn with flowers.  Through an open door, we saw, in another room, a few elderly people in common dresses; while the benches and tables thrown up in a corner, and the stained walls, gave evident signs of the last night's "high go."  Feeling, like Garrick, between Tragedy and Comedy, an uncertainty of purpose, I asked the man when the funeral would take place, and being told that it would move toward the Mission in about an hour, took my leave.</p><P>To pass away the time, we hired horses and rode to the beach, and there saw three or four Italian sailors, mounted, and riding up and down on the hard sand at a furious rate.  We joined them, and found it fine sport.  The beach gave us a stretch of a mile or more, and the horses flew over the smooth, hard sand, apparently invigorated and excited by the salt sea-breeze, and by the continual roar and dashing of the breakers.  From the beach we returned to the town, and, finding that the funeral procession had moved, rode on and overtook it, about half-way to the Mission.  Here was as peculiar a sight as we had seen before in the house, the one looking as much like a funeral procession as the other did like a house of mourning.  The little coffin was borne by eight girls, who were continually relieved by others running forward from the procession and taking their places.  Behind it came a straggling company of girls, dressed, as before, in white and flowers, and including, I should suppose by their numbers, nearly all the girls between five and fifteen in the place.  They played along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:on the way, frequently stopping and running all together to talk to some or to pick up a flower, and then running on again to overtake the coffin.  There were a few elderly women in common colors; and a herd of young men and boys, some on foot and others mounted, followed them, or walked or rode by their side, frequently interrupting them by jokes and questions.  But the most singular thing of all was, that two men walked, one on each side of the coffin, carrying muskets in their hands, which they continually loaded, and fired into the air.  Whether this was to keep off the evil spirits or not, I do not know.  It was the only interpretation that I could put upon it.</p><P>As we drew near the Mission, we saw the great gate thrown open, and the padre standing on the steps, with a crucifix in his hand.  The Mission is a large and deserted-looking place, the out-buildings going to ruin, and everything giving one the impression of decayed grandeur.  A large stone fountain threw out pure water, from four mouths, into a basin, before the church door; and we were on the point of riding up to let our horses drink, when it occurred to us that it might be consecrated, and we forebore.  Just at this moment, the bells set up their harsh, discordant clangor, and the procession moved into the court.  I wished to follow, and see the ceremony, but the horse of one of my companions had become frightened, and was tearing off toward the town; and, having thrown his rider, and got one of his hoofs caught in the tackling of the saddle, which had slipped, was fast dragging and ripping it to pieces.  Knowing that my shipmate could not speak a word of Spanish, and fearing that he would get into difficulty, I was obliged to leave the ceremony and ride after him.  I soon overtook him, trudging along, swearing at the horse, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and carrying the remains of the saddle, which he had picked up on the road.  Going to the owner of the horse, we made a settlement with him, and found him surprisingly liberal.  All parts of the saddle were brought back, and, being capable of repair, he was satisfied with six reals.  We thought it would have been a few dollars.  We pointed to the horse, which was now half-way up one of the mountains; but he shook his head, saying, "No importa!" and giving us to understand that he had plenty more.</p><P>Having returned to the town, we saw a crowd collected in the square before the principal pulperi&acute;a, and, riding up, found that all these people--men, women, and children--had been drawn together by a couple of bantam cocks.  The cocks were in full tilt, springing into one another, and the people were as eager, laughing and shouting, as though the combatants had been men.  There had been a disappointment about the bull; he had broken his bail, and taken himself off, and it was too late to get another, so the people were obliged to put up with a cock-fight.  One of the bantams having been knocked in the head, and having an eye put out, gave in, and two monstrous prize-cocks were brought on.  These were the object of the whole affair; the bantams having been merely served up as a first course, to collect the people together.  Two fellows came into the ring holding the cocks in their arms, and stroking them, and running about on all-fours, encouraging and setting them on.  Bets ran high, and, like most other contests, it remained for some time undecided.  Both cocks showed great pluck, and fought probably better and longer than their masters would have done. Whether, in the end, it was the white or the red that beat, I do not recollect, but whichever it was, he strutted off with the true <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:veni-vidi-vici look, leaving the other lying panting on his beam-ends.</p><P>This matter having been settled, we heard some talk about "caballos" and "carrera," and seeing the people streaming off in one direction, we followed, and came upon a level piece of ground, just out of the town, which was used as a race-course.  Here the crowd soon became thick again, the ground was marked off, the judges stationed, and the horses led up to one end.  Two fine-looking old gentlemen--Don Carlos and Don Domingo, so called--held the stakes, and all was now ready.  We waited some time, during which we could just see the horses twisting round and turning, until, at length, there was a shout along the lines, and on they came, heads stretched out and eyes starting, --working all over, both man and beast.  The steeds came by us like a couple of chain shot, --neck and neck; and now we could see nothing but their backs and their hind hoofs flying in the air.  As fast as the horses passed, the crowd broke up behind them, and ran to the goal.  When we got there, we found the horses returning on a slow walk, having run far beyond the mark, and heard that the long, bony one had come in head and shoulders before the other.  The riders were light-built men, had handkerchiefs tied round their heads, and were bare-armed and bare-legged.  The horses were noble-looking beasts, not so sleek and combed as our Boston stable horses, but with fine limbs and spirited eyes.  After this had been settled, and fully talked over, the crowd scattered again, and flocked back to the town.</p><P>Returning to the large pulperi&acute;a, we heard the violin and guitar screaming and twanging away under the piazza, where they had been all day.  As it was now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:sundown, there began to be some dancing.  The Italian sailors danced, and one of our crew exhibited himself in a sort of West India shuffle, much to the amusement of the bystanders, who cried out, "Bravo!" "Otra vez!" and "Vivan los marineros!" but the dancing did not become general, as the women and the "gente de razo&macr;n" had not yet made their appearance.  We wished very much to stay and see the style of dancing; but, although we had had our own way during the day, yet we were, after all, but 'fore-mast Jacks; and, having been ordered to be on the beach by sunset, did not venture to be more than an hour behind the time, so we took our way down.  We found the boat just pulling ashore through the breakers, which were running high, there having been a heavy fog outside, which, from some cause or other, always brings on, or precedes, a heavy sea.  Liberty-men are privileged from the time they leave the vessel until they step on board again; so we took our places in the stern sheets, and were congratulating ourselves upon getting off dry, when a great comber broke fore and aft the boat, and wet us through and through, filling the boat half full of water.  Having lost her buoyancy by the weight of the water, she dropped heavily into every sea that struck her, and by the time we had pulled out of the surf into deep water, she was but just afloat, and we were up to our knees.  By the help of a small bucket and our hats, we bailed her out, got on board, hoisted the boats, eat our supper, changed our clothes, gave (as is usual) the whole history of our day's adventures to those who had stayed on board, and, having taken a night-smoke, turned in.  Thus ended our second day's liberty on shore.</p><P>On Monday morning, as an offset to our day's sport, we were all set to work "tarring down" the rigging.  Some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:got girt-lines up for riding down the stays and back-stays, and others tarred the shrouds, lifts, &amp;c., laying out on the yards, and coming down the rigging.  We overhauled our bags, and took out our old tarry trousers and frocks, which we had used when we tarred down before, and were all at work in the rigging by sunrise.  After breakfast, we had the satisfaction of seeing the Italian ship's boat go ashore, filled with men, gayly dressed, as on the day before, and singing their barcarollas.  The Easter holidays are kept up on shore for three days; and, being a Catholic vessel, her crew had the advantage of them.  For two successive days, while perched up in the rigging, covered with tar and engaged in our disagreeable work, we saw these fellows going ashore in the morning, and coming off again at night, in high spirits.  So much for being Protestants.  There's no danger of Catholicism's spreading in New England, unless the Church cuts down her holidays; Yankees can't afford the time.  American shipmasters get nearly three weeks' more labor out of their crews, in the course of a year, than the masters of vessels from Catholic countries.  As Yankees don't usually keep Christmas, and shipmasters at sea never know when Thanksgiving comes, Jack has no festival at all.</p><P>About noon, a man aloft called out "Sail ho!" and, looking off, we saw the head sails of a vessel coming round the point.  As she drew round, she showed the broadside of a full-rigged brig, with the Yankee ensign at her peak.  We ran up our stars and stripes, and, knowing that there was no American brig on the coast but ours, expected to have news from home.  She rounded-to and let go her anchor; but the dark faces on her yards, when they furled the sails, and the Babel on deck, soon made known that she was from the Islands.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Immediately afterwards, a boat's crew came aboard, bringing her skipper, and from them we learned that she was from Oahu, and was engaged in the same trade with the Ayacucho and Loriotte, between the coast, the Sandwich Islands, and the leeward coast of Peru and Chili.  Her captain and officers were Americans, and also a part of her crew; the rest were Islanders.  She was called the Catalina, and, like the vessels in that trade, except the Ayacucho, her papers and colors were from Uncle Sam.  They, of course, brought us no news, and we were doubly disappointed, for we had thought, at first, it might be the ship which we were expecting from Boston.</p><P>After lying here about a fortnight, and collecting all the hides the place afforded, we set sail again for San Pedro.  There we found the brig which we had assisted in getting off lying at anchor, with a mixed crew of Americans, English, Sandwich-Islanders, Spaniards, and Spanish Indians; and though much smaller than we, yet she had three times the number of men; and she needed them, for her officers were Californians.  No vessels in the world go so sparingly manned as American and English; and none do so well.  A Yankee brig of that size would have had a crew of four men, and would have worked round and round her.  The Italian ship had a crew of thirty men, nearly three times as many as the Alert, which was afterwards on the coast, and was of the same size; yet the Alert would get under way and come-to in half the time, and get two anchors, while they were all talking at once, --jabbering like a parcel of "Yahoos," and running about decks to find their cat-block.</p><P>There was only one point in which they had the advantage over us, and that was in lightening their labors <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:in the boats by their songs.  The Americans are a time and money saving people, but have not yet, as a nation, learned that music may be "turned to account."  We pulled the long distances to and from the shore, with our loaded boats, without a word spoken, and with discontented looks, while they not only lightened the labor of rowing, but actually made it pleasant and cheerful, by their music.  So true is it, that:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"For the tired slave, song lifts the languid oar,<LB>And bids it aptly fall, with chime<LB>That beautifies the fairest shore,<LB>And mitigates the harshest clime."</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>After lying about a week in San Pedro, we got under way for San Diego, intending to stop at San Juan, as the southeaster season was nearly over, and there was little or no danger.</p><P>This being the spring season, San Pedro, as well as all the other open ports upon the coast, was filled with whales, that had come in to make their annual visit upon soundings.  For the first few days that we were here and at Santa Barbara, we watched them with great interest, calling out "There she blows!" every time we saw the spout of one breaking the surface of the water; but they soon became so common that we took little notice of them.  They often "broke" very near us, and one thick, foggy night, during a dead calm, while I was standing anchor-watch, one of them rose so near that he struck our cable, and made all surge again.  He did not seem to like the encounter much himself, for he sheered off, and spouted at a good distance.  We once came very near running one down in the gig, and should probably have been knocked to pieces or thrown skyhigh.  We had been on board the little Spanish brig, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and were returning, stretching out well at our oars, the little boat going like a swallow; our faces were turned aft (as is always the case in pulling), and the captain, who was steering, was not looking out when, all at once, we heard the spout of a whale directly ahead.  "Back water! back water, for your lives!" shouted the captain; and we backed our blades in the water, and brought the boat to in a smother of foam.  Turning our heads, we saw a great, rough, hump-backed whale slowly crossing our fore foot, within three or four yards of the boat's stem.  Had we not backed water just as we did, we should inevitably have gone smash upon him, striking him with our stem just about amidships.  He took no notice of us, but passed slowly on, and dived a few yards beyond us, throwing his tail high in the air.  He was so near that we had a perfect view of him, and, as may be supposed, had no desire to see him nearer.  He was a disgusting creature, with a skin rough, hairy, and of an iron-gray color.  This kind differs much from the sperm, in color and skin, and is said to be fiercer.  We saw a few sperm whales; but most of the whales that come upon the coast are fin-backs and hump-backs, which are more difficult to take, and are said not to give oil enough to pay for the trouble.  For this reason, whale-ships do not come upon the coast after them.  Our captain, together with Captain Nye of the Loriotte, who had been in a whale-ship, thought of making an attempt upon one of them with two boats' crews; but as we had only two harpoons, and no proper lines, they gave it up.</p><P>During the months of March, April, and May, these whales appear in great numbers in the open ports of Santa Barbara, San Pedro, &amp;c., and hover off the coast, while a few find their way into the close harbors of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Diego and Monterey.  They are all off again before midsummer, and make their appearance on the "off-shore ground."  We saw some fine "schools" of sperm whales, which are easily distinguished by their spout, blowing away, a few miles to windward, on our passage to San Juan.</p><P>Coasting along on the quiet shore of the Pacific, we came to anchor in twenty fathoms' water, almost out at sea, as it were, and directly abreast of a steep hill which overhung the water, and was twice as high as our royal-mast-head.  We had heard much of this place from the Lagoda's crew, who said it was the worst place in California.  The shore is rocky, and directly exposed to the southeast, so that vessels are obliged to slip and run for their lives on the first sign of a gale; and late as it was in the season, we got up our slip-rope and gear, though we meant to stay only twenty-four hours.  We pulled the agent ashore, and were ordered to wait for him, while he took a circuitous way round the hill to the Mission, which was hidden behind it.  We were glad of the opportunity to examine this singular place, and hauling the boat up, and making her well fast, took different directions up and down the beach, to explore it.</p><P>San Juan is the only romantic spot on the coast.  The country here for several miles is high table-land, running boldly to the shore, and breaking off in a steep cliff, at the foot of which the waters of the Pacific are constantly dashing.  For several miles the water washes the very base of the hill, or breaks upon ledges and fragments of rocks which run out into the sea.  Just where we landed was a small cove, or bight, which gave us, at high tide, a few square feet of sand-beach between the sea and the bottom of the hill.  This was the only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:landing-place.  Directly before us rose the perpendicular height of four or five hundred feet.  How we were to get hides down, or goods up, upon the table-land on which the Mission was situated, was more than we could tell.  The agent had taken a long circuit, and yet had frequently to jump over breaks, and climb steep places, in the ascent.  No animal but a man or a monkey could get up it.  However, that was not our lookout; and, knowing that the agent would be gone an hour or more, we strolled about, picking up shells, and following the sea where it tumbled in, roaring and spouting, among the crevices of the great rocks.  What a sight, thought I, must this be in a southeaster!  The rocks were as large as those of Nahant or Newport, but, to my eye, more grand and broken.  Beside, there was a grandeur in everything around, which gave a solemnity to the scene, a silence and solitariness which affected every part!  Not a human being but ourselves for miles, and no sound heard but the pulsations of the great Pacific! and the great steep hill rising like a wall, and cutting us off from all the world, but the "world of waters"!  I separated myself from the rest, and sat down on a rock, just where the sea ran in and formed a fine spouting horn.  Compared with the plain, dull sand-beach of the rest of the coast, this grandeur was as refreshing as a great rock in a weary land.  It was almost the first time that I had been positively alone-- free from the sense that human beings were at my elbow, if not talking with me--since I had left home.  My better nature returned strong upon me.  Everything was in accordance with my state of feeling, and I experienced a glow of pleasure at finding that what of poetry and romance I ever had in me had not been entirely deadened by the laborious life, with its paltry, vulgar associations, which I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:had been leading.  Nearly an hour did I sit, almost lost in the luxury of this entire new scene of the play in which I had been so long acting, when I was aroused by the distant shouts of my compainions, and saw that they were collecting together, as the agent had made his appearance, on his way back to our boat.</p><P>We pulled aboard, and found the long-boat hoisted out, and nearly laden with goods; and, after dinner, we all went on shore in the quarter-boat, with the longboat in tow.  As we drew in, we descried an ox-cart and a couple of men standing directly on the brow of the hill; and having landed, the captain took his way round the hill, ordering me and one other to follow him.  We followed, picking our way out, and jumping scrambling up, walking over briers and prickly pears, until we came to the top.  Here the country stretched out for miles, as far as the eye could reach, on  a level table surface, and the only habitation in sight was the small white mission of San Juan Capistrano, with a few Indian huts about it, standing in a small hollow, about a mile from where we were.  Reaching the brow of the hill, where the cart stood, we found several piles of hides, and Indians sitting round them.  One or two other carts were coming slowly on from the Mission, and the captain told us to begin and throw the hides down.  This, then, was the way they were to be got down, --thrown down, one at a time, a distance of four hundred feet!  This was doing the business on a great scale.  Standing on the edge of the hill, and looking down the perpendicular height, the sailors <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"That walked upon the beach<LB>Appeared like mice; and <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
139.sgm: tall anchoring bark<LB>Diminished to her cock; her cock a buoy<LB>Almost too small for sight."</HI>
139.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>Down this height we pitched the hides, throwing them as far out into the air as we could; and as they were all large, stiff, and doubled, like the cover of a book, the wind took them, and they swayed and eddied about, plunging and rising in the air, like a kite when it has broken its string.  As it was now low tide, there was no danger of their falling into the water; and, as fast as they came to ground, the men below picked them up, and, taking them on their heads, walked off with them to the boat.  It was really a picturesque sight: the great height, the scaling of the hides, and the continual walking to and fro of the men, who looked like mites, on the beach.  This was the romance of hide droghing!</p><P>Some of the hides lodged in cavities under the bank and out of our sight, being directly under us; but by pitching other hides in the same direction, we succeeded in dislodging them.  Had they remained there, the captain said he should have sent on board for a couple of pairs of long halyards, and got some one to go down for them.  It was said that one of the crew of an English brig went down in the same way, a few years before.  We looked over, and thought it would not be a welcome task, especially for a few paltry hides; but no one knows what he will do until he is called upon; for, six months afterwards, I descended the same place by a pair of top-gallant studding-sail halyards, to save half a dozen hides which had lodged there.</p><P>Having thrown them all over, we took our way back again, and found the boat loaded and ready to start.  We pulled off, took the hides all aboard, hoisted in the boats, hove up our anchor, made sail, and before sun-down were on our way to San Diego.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, May 8th, 1835</HI>
139.sgm:.  Arrived at San Diego.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:found the little harbor deserted.  The Lagoda, Ayacucho, Loriotte, all had sailed from the coast, and we were left alone.  All the hide-houses on the beach but ours were shut up, and the Sandwich-Islanders, a dozen or twenty in number, who had worked for the other vessels, and been paid off when they sailed, were living on the beach, keeping up a grand carnival.  There was a large oven on the beach, which, it seems, had been built by a Russian discovery-ship, that had been on the coast a few years ago, for baking her bread.  This the Sandwich-Islanders took possession of, and had kept ever since, undisturbed.  It was big enough to hold eight or ten men, and had a door at the side, and a vent-hole at top.  They covered the floor with Oahu mats for a carpet, stopped up the vent-hole in bad weather, and made it their head-quarters.  It was now inhabited by as many as a dozen or twenty men, crowded together, who lived there in complete idleness, --drinking, playing cards, and carousing in every way.  They bought a bullock once a week, which kept them in meat, and one of them went up to the town every day to get fruit, liquor, and provisions.  Besides this, they had bought a cask of ship-bread, and a barrel of flour from the Lagoda, before she sailed.  There they lived, having a grand time, and caring for nobody.  Captain Thompson wished to get three or four of them to come on board the Pilgrim, as we were so much diminished in numbers, and went up to the oven, and spent an hour or two trying to negotiate with them.  One of them, --a finely built, active, strong, and intelligent fellow, --who was a sort of king among them, acted as spokesman.  He was called Mannini, --or rather, out of compliment to his known importance and influence, <HI REND="italics">Mr</HI>
139.sgm:.  Mannini, --and was known all over California.  Through him, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:captain offered them fifteen dollars a month, and one month's pay in advance; but it was like throwing pearls before swine, or, rather, carrying coals to New-castle.  So long as they had money, they would not work for fifty dollars a month, and when their money was gone, they would work for ten.</p><P>"What do you do here, Mr. Mannini?<ANCHOR ID="n18-1">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: said the captain.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-1">The vowels in the Sandwich Island language have the sound of those in the languages of Continental Europe.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>"Oh! we play cards, get drunk, smoke, --do anything we're a mind to."</p><P>"Don't you want to come aboard and work?"</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Aole! aole make make makou i ka hana</HI>
139.sgm:.  Now, got plenty money; no good, work.  <HI REND="italics">Mamule</HI>
139.sgm:, money <HI REND="italics"> pau</HI>
139.sgm: --all gone.  Ah! very good, work!-- <HI REND="italics">maikai, hana hana nui</HI>
139.sgm:!"</p><P>"But you'll spend all your money in this way," said the the captain.</p><P>"Aye! me know that.  By-'em-by money <HI REND="italics">pau</HI>
139.sgm: -- all gone; then Kanaka work plenty."</p><P>This was a hopeless case, and the captain left them to wait patiently until their money was gone.</p><P>We discharged our hides and tallow, and in about a week were ready to set sail again for the windward.  We unmoored, and got everything ready, when the captain made another attempt upon the oven.  This time he had more regard to the "mollia tempora fandi," and succeeded very well.  He won over Mr. Mannini to his interest, and as the shot was getting low in the locker at the oven, prevailed upon him and three others to come on board with their chests and baggage, and sent a hasty summons to me and the boy to come ashore with our things, and join the gang at the hide-house.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:was unexpected to me; but anything in the way of variety I liked; so we made ready, and were pulled ashore.  I stood on the beach while the brig got under way, and watched her until she rounded the point, and then went to the hide-house to take up my quarters for a few months.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>HERE was a change in my life as complete as it had been sudden.  In the twinkling of an eye I was transformed from a sailor into a "beach-comber" and a hide-curer; yet the novelty and the comparative independence of the life were not unpleasant.  Our hide-house was a large building, made of rough boards, and intended to hold forty thousand hides.  In one corner of it a small room was parted off, in which four berths were made, where we were to live, with mother earth for our floor.  It contained a table, a small locker for pots, spoons, plates, &amp;c., and a small hole cut to let in the light.  Here we put our chests, threw our bedding into the berths, and took up our quarters.  Over our heads was another small room, in which <HI REND="italics">Mr</HI>
139.sgm:. Russell lived, who had charge of the hide-house, the same man who was for a time an officer of the Pilgrim.  There he lived in solitary grandeur, eating and sleeping alone (and these were his principal occupations), and communing with his own dignity.  The boy, a Marblehead hopeful, whose name was Sam, was to act as cook; while I, a giant of a Frenchman name Nicholas, and four Sandwich-Islanders were to cure the hides.  Sam, Nicholas, and I lived together in the room, and the four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Sandwich-Islanders worked and ate with us, but generally slept at the oven.  My new messmate, Nicholas, was the most immense man that I had ever seen.  He came on the coast in a vessel which was afterwards wrecked, and now let himself out to the different houses to cure hides.  He was considerably over six feet, and of a frame so large that he might have been shown for a curiosity.  But the most remarkable thing about him was his feet.  They were so large that he could not find a pair of shoes in California to fit him, and was obliged to send to Oahu for a pair; and when he got them, he was compelled to wear them down at the heel.  He told me once that he was wrecked in an American brig on the Goodwin Sands, and was sent up to London, to the charge of the American consul, with scant clothing to his back and no shoes to his feet, and was obliged to go about London streets in his stocking-feet three or four days, in the month of January, until the consul could have a pair of shoes <HI REND="italics">made for him</HI>
139.sgm:.  His strength was in proportion to his size, and his ignorance to his strength, --"strong as an ox, and ignorant as strong."  He knew how neither to read nor to write.  He had been to sea from a boy, had seen all kinds of service, and been in all sorts of vessels, --merchantmen, men-of-war, privateers, and slavers; and from what I could gather from his accounts of himself, and from what he once told me, in confidence, after we had become better acquainted, he had been in even worse business than slave-trading.  He was once tried for his life in Charleston, South Carolina, and, though acquitted, was so frightened that he never would show himself in the United States again.  I was not able to persuade him that he could not be tried a second time for the same offence.  He said he had got safe off from the breakers, and was too good a sailor to risk his timbers again.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>Though I knew what his life had been, yet I never had the slightest fear of him.  We always got along very well together, and, though so much older, stronger, and larger than I, he showed a marked respect for me, on account of my education, and of what he had heard of my situation before coming to sea, such as may be expected from a European of the humble class.  "I'll be good friends with you," he used to say, "for by and by you'll come out here captain, and then you'll <HI REND="italics">haze</HI>
139.sgm: me well!"  By holding together, we kept the officer in good order, for he was evidently afraid of Nicholas, and never interfered with us, except when employed upon the hides.  My other companions, the Sandwich-Islanders, deserve particular notice.</p><P>A considerable trade has been carried on for several years between California and the Sandwich Islands, and most of the vessels are manned with Islanders, who, as they for the most part sign no articles, leave whenever they chose, and let themselves out to cure hides at San Diego, and to supply the places of the men left ashore from the American vessels while on the coast.  In this way a little colony of them had become settled at San Diego, as their head-quarters.  Some of these had recently gone off in the Ayacucho and Loriotte, and the Pilgrim had taken Mr. Mannini and three others, so that there were not more than twenty left.  Of these, four were on pay at the Ayacucho's house, four more working with us, and the rest were living at the oven in a quiet way; for their money was nearly gone, and they must make it last until some other vessel came down to employ them.</p><P>During the four months that I lived here, I got well acquainted with all of them, and took the greatest pains to become familiar with their language, habits, and characters.  Their language I could learn orally, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:for they had not any books among them, though many of them had been taught to read and write by the missionaries at home.  They spoke a little English, and, by a sort of compromise, a mixed language was used on the beach, which could be understood by all.  The long name of Sandwich-Islanders is dropped, and they are called by the whites, all over the Pacific Ocean, "Kanakas," from a word in their own language, --signifying, I believe, man, human being, --which they apply to themselves, and to all South-Sea-Islanders, in distinction from whites, whom they call "Haole."  This name, "Kanaka," they answer to, both collectively and individually.  Their proper names in their own language being difficult to pronounce and remember, they are called by any names which the captains or crews may choose to give them.  Some are called after the vessel they are in; others by our proper names, as Jack, Tom, Bill; and some have fancy names, as Ban-yan, Fore-top, Rope-yarn, Pelican, &amp;c., &amp;c.  Of the four who worked at our house, one was named "Mr. Bingham," after the missionary at Oahu; another, Hope, after a vessel that he had been in; a third, Tom Davis, the name of his first captain; and the fourth, Pelican, from his fancied resemblance to that bird.  Then there was Lagoda-Jack, California-Bill, &amp;c., &amp;c.  But by whatever names they might be called, they were the most interesting, intelligent, and king-hearted people that I ever fell in with.  I felt a positive attachment for almost all of them; and many of them I have, to this day, a feeling for, which would lead me to go a great way for the pleasure of seeing them, and which will always make me feel a strong interest in the mere name of a Sandwich-Islander.</p><P>Tom Davis knew how to read, write, and cipher in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:common arithmetic; had been to the United States, and spoke English quite well.  His education was as good as that of three quarters of the Yankees in California, and his manners and principles a good deal better; and he was so quick of apprehension that he might have been taught navigation, and the elements of many of the sciences, with ease.  Old "Mr. Bingham" spoke very little English, --almost none, and could neither read not write; but he was the best-hearted old fellow in the world.  He must have been over fifty years of age.  He had two of his front teeth knocked out, which was done by his parents as a sign of grief at the death of Kamehameha, the great king of the Sandwich Islands.  We used to tell him that he ate Captain Cook, and lost his teeth in that way.  That was the only thing that ever made him angry.  He would always be quite excited at that, and say: " <HI REND="italics">Aole</HI>
139.sgm:!"  (No).  "Me no eatee Cap'nee Cook!  Me pickaninny--small--so high--no more!  My fader see Cap'nee Cook!  Me--no!"  None of them liked to have anything said about Captain Cook, for the sailors all believe that he was eaten, and that they cannot endure to be taunted with.  "New Zealand Kanaka eatee white man; Sandwich Island Kanaka, --no.  Sandwich Island Kanaka <HI REND="italics">ua like pu na haole</HI>
139.sgm:, --all 'e same a' you!"</p><P>Mr. Bingham was a sort of patriarch among them, and was treated with great respect, though he had not the education and energy which gave Mr. Mannini his power over them.  I have spent hours in talking with this old fellow about Kamehameha, the Charlemagne of the Sandwich Islands; his son and successor, Riho Riho, who died in England, and was brought to Oahu in the frigate Blonde, Captain Lord Byron, and whose funeral he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:remembered perfectly; and also about the customs of his boyhood, and the changes which had been made by the missionaries.  He never would allow that human beings had been eaten there; and, indeed, it always seemed an insult to tell so affectionate, intelligent, and civilized a class of men that such barbarities had been practised in their own country within the recollection of many of them.  Certainly, the history of no people on the globe can show anything like so rapid an advance from barbarism.  I would have trusted my life and all I had in the hands of any one of these people; and certainly, had I wished for a favor or act of sacrifice, I would have gone to them all, in turn, before I should have applied to one of my own countrymen on the coast, and should have expected to see it done, before my own countrymen had got half through counting the cost.  Their customs, and manner of treating one another, show a simple, primitive generosity which is truly delightful, and which is often a reproach to our own people.  Whatever one has they all have.  Money, food, clothes, they share with one another, even to the last piece of tobacco to put in their pipes.  I once heard old Mr. Bingham say, with the highest indignation, to a Yankee trader who was trying to persuade him to keep his money to himself, "No! we no all 'e same a' you!--Suppose one got money, all got money.  You, --suppose one got money--lock him up in chest.--No good!"--"Kanaka all 'e same a' one!"  This principle they carry so far that none of them will eat anything in sight of others without offering it all round.  I have seen one of them break a biscuit, which had been given him, into five parts, at a time when I knew he was on a very short allowance, as there was but little to eat on the beach.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>My favorite among all of them, and one who was liked by both officers and men, and by whomever he had anything to do with, was Hope.  He was an intelligent, kind-hearted little fellow, and I never saw him angry, though I knew him for more than a year, and have seen him imposed upon by white people, and abused by insolent mates of vessels.  He was always civil, and always ready, and never forgot a benefit.  I once took care of him when he was ill, getting medicines from the ship's chests, when no captain or officer would do anything for him, and he never forgot it.  Every Kanaka has one particular friend, whom he considers himself bound to do everything for, and with whom he has a sort of contract, --an alliance offensive and defensive, --and for whom he will often make the greatest sacrifices.  This friend they call <HI REND="italics">aikane</HI>
139.sgm:; and for such did Hope adopt me.  I do not believe I could have wanted anything which he had, that he would not have given me.  In return for this, I was his friend among the Americans, and used to teach him letters and numbers; for he left home before he had learned how to read.  He was very curious respecting Boston (as they called the United States), asking many questions about the houses, the people, &amp;c., and always wished to have the pictures in books explained to him.  They were all astonishingly quick in catching at explanations, and many things which I had thought it utterly impossible to make them understand they often seized in an instant, and asked questions which showed that they knew enough to make them wish to go farther.  The pictures of steamboats and railroad cars, in the columns of some newspapers which I had, gave me great difficulty to explain.  The grading of the road, the rails, the construction of the carriages, they could easily understand, but the motion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:produced by steam was a little too refined for them.  I attempted to show it to them once by an experiment upon the cook's coppers, but failed, --probably as much from my own ignorance as from their want of apprehension, and, I have no doubt, left them with about as clear an idea of the principle as I had myself.  This difficulty, of course, existed in the same force with respect to the steamboats; and all I could do was to give them some account of the results, in the shape of speed; for, failing in the reason, I had to fall back upon the fact.  In my account of the speed, I was supported by Tom, who had been to Nantucket, and seen a little steamboat which ran over to New Bedford.  And, by the way, it was strange to hear Tom speak of America, when the poor fellow had been all the way round Cape Horn and back, and had seen nothing but Nantucket.</p><P>A map of the world, which I once showed them, kept their attention for hours; those who knew how to read pointing out the places and referring to me for the distances.  I remember being much amused with a question which Hope asked me.  Pointing to the large, irregular place which is always left blank round the poles, to denote that it is undiscovered, he looked up and asked, " <HI REND="italics">Pau</HI>
139.sgm:?"  (Done? ended?)</p><P>The system of naming the streets and numbering the houses they easily understood, and the utility of it.  They had a great desire to see America, but were afraid of doubling Cape Horn, for they suffer much in cold weather, and had heard dreadful accounts of the Cape from those of their number who had been round it.</p><P>They smoke a great deal, though not much at a time, using pipes with large bowls, and very short stems, or no stems at all.  These they light, and, putting them to their mouths, take a long draught, getting their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:mouths as full as they can hold of smoke, and their cheeks distended, and then let it slowly out through their mouths and nostrils.  The pipe is then passed to others, who draw in the same manner, --one pipe-full serving for half a dozen.  They never take short, continuous draughts, like Europeans, but one of these "Oahu puffs," as the sailors call them, serves for an hour or two, until some one else lights his pipe, and it is passed round in the same manner.  Each Kanaka on the beach had a pipe, flint, steel, tinder, a hand of tobacco, and a jack-knife, which he always carried about with him.<ANCHOR ID="n19-1">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-1">Matches had not come into use then.  I think there were none on board any vessel on the coast.  We used the tinder box in our fore-castle.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>That which strikes a stranger most peculiarly is their style of singing.  They run on, in a low, guttural, monotonous sort of chant, their lips and tongues seeming hardly to move, and the sounds apparently modulated solely in the throat.  There is very little tune to it, and the words, so far as I could learn, are extempore.  They sing about persons and things which are around them, and adopt this method when they do not wish to be understood by any but themselves; and it is very effectual, for with the most careful attention I never could detect a word that I knew.  I have often heard Mr. Mannini, who was the most noted <HI REND="italics">improvisatore</HI>
139.sgm: among them, sing for an hour together, when at work in the midst of Americans and Englishmen; and, by the occasional shouts and laughter of the Kanakas, who were at a distance, it was evident that he was singing about the different men that he was at work with.  They have great powers of ridicule, and are excellent mimics, many of them discovering and imitating the peculiarities <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of our own people before we had observed them ourselves.</p><P>These were the people with whom I was to spend a few months, and who, with the exception of the officer, Nicholas, the Frenchman, and the boy, made the whole population of the beach.  I ought, perhaps, to except the dogs, for they were an important part of our settlement.  Some of the first vessels brought dogs out with them, who, for convenience, were left ashore, and there multiplied, until they came to be a great people.  While I was on the beach, the average number was about forty, and probably an equal, or greater, number are drowned, or killed in some other way, every year.  They are very useful in guarding the beach, the Indians being afraid to come down at night; for it was impossible for any one to get within half a mile of the hide-houses without a general alarm.  The father of the colony, old Sachem, so called from the ship in which he was brought out, died while I was there, full of years, and was honorably buried.  Hogs and a few chickens were the rest of the animal tribe, and formed, like the dogs, a common company, though they were all known, and usually fed at the houses to which they belonged.</p><P>I had been but a few hours on the beach, and the Pilgrim was hardly out of sight, when the cry of "Sail ho!" was raised, and a small hermaphrodite brig rounded the point, bore up into the harbor, and came to anchor.  It was the Mexican brig Fazio, which we had left at San Pedro, and which had come down to land her tallow, try it all over, and make new bags, and then take it in and leave the coast.  They moored ship, erected their try-works on shore, put up a small tent, in which they all lived, and commenced operations.  This addition gave a change and variety to our <HI REND="italics">society</HI>
139.sgm:, and we spent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:many evenings in their tent, where, amid the Babel of English, Spanish, French, Indian, and Kanaka, we found some words that we could understand in common.</p><P>The morning after my landing, I began the duties of hide-curing.  In order to understand these, it will be necessary to give the whole history of a hide, from the time it is taken from a bullock until it is put on board the vessel to be carried to Boston.  When the hide is taken from the bullock, holes are cut round it, near the edge, by which it is staked out to dry.  In this manner it dries without shrinking.  After the hides are thus dried in the sun, and doubled with the skin out, they are received by the vessels at the different ports on the coast, and brought down to the depot at San Diego.  The vessels land them, and leave them in large piles near the houses.  Then begins the hide-curer's duty.</p><P>The first thing is to put them in soak.  This is done by carrying them down at low tide, and making them fast, in small piles, by ropes, and letting the tide come up and cover them.  Every day we put in soak twenty-five for each man, which, with us, made a hundred and fifty.  There they lie forty-eight hours, when they are taken out, and rolled up, in wheelbarrows, and thrown into the vats.  These vats contain brine, made very strong, --being sea-water, with great quantities of salt thrown in.  This pickles the hides, and in this they lie forty-eight hours; the use of the sea-water, into which they are first put, being merely to soften and clean them.  From these vats they are taken, and lie on a platform for twenty-four hours, and then are spread upon the ground, and carefully stretched and staked out, with the skin up, that they may dry smooth.  After they had been staked, and while yet wet and soft, we used to go upon them with our knives, and carefully cut off all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:bad parts, --the pieces of meat and fat, which would corrupt and infect the whole if stowed away in a vessel for many months, the large <HI REND="italics">flippers</HI>
139.sgm:, the ears, and all other parts which would prevent close stowage.  This was the most difficult part of our duty, as it required much skill to take off everything that ought to come off, and not to cut or injure the hide.  It was also a long process, as six of us had to clean a hundred and fifty, most of which required a great deal to be done to them, as the Spaniards are very careless in skinning their cattle.  Then, too, as we cleaned them while they were staked out, we were obliged to kneel down upon them, which always gives beginners the back-ache.  The first day I was so slow and awkward that I cleaned only eight; at the end of a few days I doubled my number; and, in a fortnight or three weeks, could keep up with the others, and clean my twenty-five.</p><P>This cleaning must be got through with before noon, for by that time the hides get too dry.  After the sun has been upon them a few hours, they are carefully gone over with scrapers, to get off all the grease which the sun brings out.  This being done, the stakes are pulled up, and the hides carefully doubled, with the hair side out, and left to dry.  About the middle of the afternoon they are turned over, for the other side to dry, and at sundown piled up and covered over.  The next day they are spread out and opened again, and at night, if fully dry, are thrown upon a long, horizontal pole, five at a time, and beaten with flails.  This takes all the dust from them.  Then, having been salted, scraped, cleaned, dried, and beaten, they are stowed away in the house.  Here ends their history, except that they are taken out again when the vessel is ready to go home, beaten, stowed away on board, carried to Boston, tanned, made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:into shoes and other articles for which leather is used, and many of them, very probably, in the end, brought back again to California in the shape of shoes, and worn out in pursuit of other bullocks, or in the curing of other hides.</p><P>By putting a hundred and fifty in soak every day, we had the same number at each stage of curing on each day; so that we had, every day, the same work to do upon the same number, --a hundred and fifty to put in soak, a hundred and fifty to wash out and put in the vat, the same number to haul from the vat and put on the platform to drain, the same number to spread, and stake out, and clean, and the same number to beat and stow away in the house.  I ought to except Sunday; for, by a prescription which no captain or agent has yet ventured to break in upon, Sunday has been a day of leisure on the beach for years.  On Saturday night, the hides, in every stage of progress, are carefully covered up, and not uncovered until Monday morning.  On Sundays we had absolutely no work to do, unless it might be to kill a bullock, which was sent down for our use about once a week, and sometimes came on Sunday.  Another advantage of the hide-curing life was, that we had just so much work to do, and when that was through, the time was our own.  Knowing this, we worked hard, and needed no driving.  We "turned out" every morning with the first signs of daylight, and allowing a short time, at about eight o'clock, for breakfast, generally got through our labor between one and two o'clock, when we dined, and had the rest of the time to ourselves, until just before sundown, when we beat the dry hides and put them in the house, and covered over all the others.  By this means we had about three hours to ourselves every afternoon, and at sundown we had our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:supper, and our work was done for the day.  There was no watch to stand, and no topsails to reef.  The evenings we generally spent at one another's houses, and I often went up and spent an hour or so at the oven, which was called the "Kanaka Hotel," and the "Oahu Coffee-house."  Immediately after dinner we usually took a short siesta, to make up for our early rising, and spent the rest of the afternoon according to our own fancies.  I generally read, wrote, and made or mended clothes; for necessity, the mother of invention, had taught me these two latter arts.  The Kanakas went up to the oven, and spent the time in sleeping, talking, and smoking, and my messmate, Nicholas, who neither knew how to read nor write, passed away the time by a long siesta, two or three smokes with his pipe, and a paseo to the other houses.  This leisure time is never interfered with, for the captains know that the men earn it by working hard and fast, and that, if they interfered with it, the men could easily make their twenty-five hides apiece last through the day.  We were pretty independent, too, for the master of the house--"capitan de la casa"--had nothing to say to us, except when we were at work on the hides; and although we could not go up to the town without his permission, this was seldom or never refused.</p><P>The great weight of the wet hides, which we were obliged to roll about in wheelbarrows; the continual stooping upon those which were pegged out to be cleaned; and the smell of the nasty vats, into which we were often obliged to wade, knee-deep, to press down the hides, --all made the work disagreeable and fatiguing; but we soon became hardened to it, and the comparative independence of our life reconciled us to it, for there was nobody to <HI REND="italics">haze</HI>
139.sgm: us and find fault; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:when we were through for the day, we had only to wash and change our clothes, and our time was our own.  There was, however, one exception to the time's being our own, which was, that on two afternoons of every week we were obliged to go off for wood for the cook to use in the galley.  Wood is very scarce in the vicinity of San Diego, there being no trees of any size for miles.  In the town, the inhabitants burn the small wood which grows in thickets, and for which they send out Indians, in large numbers, every few days.  Fortunately, the climate is so fine that they have no need of a fire in their houses, and only use it for cooking.  With us, the getting of wood was a great trouble; for all that in the vicinity of the houses had been cut down, and we were obliged to go off a mile or two, and to carry it some distance on our backs, as we could not get the hand-cart up the hills and over the uneven places.  Two afternoons in the week, generally Monday and Thursday, as soon as we were through dinner, we started off for the bush, each of us furnished with a hatchet and a long piece of rope, and dragging the hand-cart behind us, and followed by the whole colony of dogs, who were always ready for the bush, and were half mad whenever they saw our preparations.  We went with the hand-cart as far as we could conveniently drag it, and, leaving it in an open, conspicuous place, separated ourselves, each taking his own course, and looking about for some good place to begin upon.  Frequently, we had to go nearly a mile from the hand-cart before we could find any fit place.  Having lighted upon a good thicket, the next thing was to clear away the underbrush, and have fair play at the trees.  These trees are seldom more than five or six feet high, and the highest that I ever saw in these expeditions could not have been more than twelve, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:so that, with lopping off the branches and clearing away the underwood, we had a good deal of cutting to do for a very little wood.  Having cut enough for a "back-load," the next thing was to make it well fast with the rope, and heaving the bundle upon our backs, and taking the hatchet in hand, to walk off, up hill and down dale, to the hand-cart.  Two good back-loads apiece filled the hand-cart, and that was each one's proportion.  When each had brought down his second load, we filled the hand-cart, and took our way again slowly back to the beach.  It was generally sundown when we got back; and unloading, covering the hides for the night, and, getting our supper, finished the day's work.</p><P>These wooding excursions had always a mixture of something rather pleasant in them.  Roaming about in the woods with hatchet in hand, like a backwoodsman, followed by a troop of dogs, starting up birds, snakes, hares, and foxes, and examining the various kinds of trees, flowers, and birds'-nests, was, at least, a change from the monotonous drag and pull on shipboard.  Frequently, too, we had some amusement and adventure.  The coyotes, of which I have before spoken, --a sort of mixture of the fox and wolf breeds, --fierce little animals, with bushy tails and large heads, and a quick, sharp bark, abound here, as in all other parts of California.  These the dogs were very watchful for, and, whenever they saw them, started off in full run after them.  We had many fine chases; yet, although our dogs ran fast, the rascals generally escaped.  They are a match for the dog, --one to one, --but as the dogs generally went in squads, there was seldom a fair fight.  A smaller dog, belonging to us, once attacked a coyote single, and was considerably worsted, and might, perhaps, have been killed, had we not come to his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:assistance.  We had, however, one dog which gave them a good deal of trouble and many hard runs.  He was a fine, tall fellow, and united strength and agility better than any dog that I have ever seen.  He was born at the Islands, his father being an English mastiff and his mother a greyhound.  He had the high head, long legs, narrow body, and springing gait of the latter, and the heavy jaw, thick jowls, and strong fore-quarters of the mastiff.  When he was brought to San Diego, an English sailor said that he looked, about the face, like the Duke of Wellington, whom he had once seen at the Tower; and, indeed, there was something about him which resembled the portraits of the Duke.  From this time he was christened "Welly," and became the favorite and bully of the beach.  He always led the dogs by several yards in the chase, and had killed two coyotes at different times in single combats.  We often had fine sport with these fellows.  A quick, sharp bark from a coyote, and in an instant every dog was at the height of his speed.  A few minutes made up for an unfair start, and gave each dog his right place.  Welly, at the head, seemed almost to skim over the bushes, and after him came Fanny, Feliciana, Childers, and the other fleet ones, --the spaniels and terriers; and then, behind, followed the heavy corps, --bull-dogs, &amp;c., for we had every breed.  Pursuit by us was in vain, and in about half an hour the dogs would begin to come panting and straggling back.</p><P>Beside the coyotes, the dogs sometimes made prizes of rabbits and hares, which are plentiful here, and numbers of which we often shot for our dinners.  Among the other animals there was a reptile I was not so much disposed to find amusement from, the rattlesnake.  These snakes are very abundant here, especially during the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:spring of the year.  The latter part of the time that I was on shore, I did not meet with so many, but for the first two months we seldom went into "the bush" without one of our number starting some of them.  I remember perfectly well the first one that I ever saw.  I had left my companions, and was beginning to clear away a fine clump of trees, when, just in the midst of the thicket, but a few yards from me, one of these fellows set up his hiss.  It is a sharp, continuous sound, and resembles very much the letting off of the steam from the small pipe of a steamboat, except that it is on a smaller scale.  I knew, by the sound of an axe, that one of my companions was near, and called out to him, to let him know what I had fallen upon.  He took it very lightly, and as he seemed inclined to laugh at me for being afraid, I determined to keep my place.  I knew that so long as I could hear the rattle I was safe, for these snakes never make a noise when they are in motion.  Accordingly I continued my work, and the noise which I made with cutting and breaking the trees kept him in alarm; so that I had the rattle to show me his whereabouts.  Once or twice the noise stopped for a short time, which gave me a little uneasiness, and, retreating a few steps, I threw something into the bush, at which he would set his rattle agoing, and, finding that he had not moved from his first place, I was easy again.  In this way I continued at my work until I had cut a full load, never suffering him to be quiet for a moment.  Having cut my load, I strapped it together, and got everything ready for starting.  I felt that I could now call the others without the imputation of being afraid, and went in search of them.  In a few minutes we were all collected, and began an attack upon the bush.  The big Frenchman, who was the one that I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:called to at first, I found as little inclined to approach the snake as I had been.  The dogs, too, seemed afraid of the rattle, and kept up a barking at a safe distance; but the Kanakas showed no fear, and, getting long sticks, went into the bush, and, keeping a bright lookout, stood within a few feet of him.  One or two blows struck near him, and a few stones thrown started him, and we lost his track, and had the pleasant consciousness that he might be directly under our feet.  By throwing stones and chips in different directions, we made him spring his rattle again, and began another attack.  This time we drove him into the clear ground, and saw him gliding off, with head and tail erect, when a stone, well aimed, knocked him over the bank, down a declivity of fifteen or twenty feet, and stretched him at his length.  Having made sure of him by a few more stones, we went down, and one of the Kanakas cut off his rattle.  These rattles vary in number, it is said, according to the age of the snake; though the Indians think they indicate the number of creatures they have killed.  We always preserved them as trophies, and at the end of the summer had a considerable collection.  None of our people were bitten by them, but one of our dogs died of a bite, and another was supposed to have been bitten, but recovered.  We had no remedy for the bite, though it was said that the Indians of the country had, and the Kanakas professed to have an herb which would cure it, but it was fortunately never brought to the test.</p><P>Hares and rabbits, as I said before, were abundant, and, during the winter months, the waters are covered with wild ducks and geese.  Crows, too, abounded, and frequently alighted in great numbers upon our hides, picking at the pieces of dried meat and fat.  Bears and wolves are numerous in the upper parts of the coast, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and in the interior (and, indeed, a man was killed by a bear within a few miles of San Pedro, while we were there), but there were none in our immediate neighborhood.  The only other animals were horses.  More than a dozen of these were owned by men on the beach, and were allowed to run loose among the hills, with a long lasso attached to them, to pick up feed wherever they could find it.  We were sure of seeing them once a day, for there was no water among the hills, and they were obliged to come down to the well which had been dug upon the beach.  These horses were bought at from two to six and eight dollars apiece, and were held very much as common property.  We generally kept one fast to one of the houses, so that we could mount him and catch any of the others.  Some of them were really fine animals, and gave us many good runs up to the presidio and over the country.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>AFTER we had been a few weeks on shore, and had begun to feel broken into the regularity of our life, its monotony was interrupted by the arrival of two vessels from the windward.  We were sitting at dinner in our little room, when we heard the cry of "Sail ho!"  This, we had learned, did not always signify a vessel, but was raised whenever a woman was seen coming down from the town, or an ox-cart, or anything unusual, hove in sight upon the road; so we took no notice of it.  But it soon became so loud and general from all parts of the beach that we were led to go to the door; and there, sure enough, were two sails coming round the point, and leaning over from the strong northwest wind, which blows down the coast every afternoon.  The headmost was a ship, and the other a brig.  Everybody was alive on the beach, and all manner of conjectures were abroad.  Some said it was the Pilgrim, with the Boston ship, which we were expecting; but we soon saw that the brig was not the Pilgrim, and the ship, with her stump top-gallant-masts and rusty sides, could not be a dandy Boston Indiaman.  As they drew nearer, we discovered the high poop, and top-gallant forecastle, and other marks of the Italian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:ship Rosa, and the brig proved to be the Catalina, which we saw at Santa Barbara, just arrived from Valparaiso.  They came to anchor, moored ship, and began discharging hides and tallow.  The Rosa had purchased the house occupied by the Lagoda, and the Catalina took the other spare one between ours and the Ayacucho's, so that now each house was occupied, and the beach, for several days, was all animation.  The Catalina had several Kanakas on board, who were immediately laid hold of by the others, and carried up to the oven, where they had a long pow-wow and a smoke.  Two Frenchmen, who belonged to the Rosa's crew, came in every evening to see Nicholas; and from them we learned that the Pilgrim was at San Pedro, and was the only vessel from the United States now on the coast.  Several of the Italians slept on shore at their hide-house; and there, and at the tent in which the Fazio's crew lived, we had some singing almost every evening.  The Italians sang a variety of songs, --barcarollas, provincial airs, &amp;c.; in several of which I recognized parts of our favorite operas and sentimental songs.  They often joined in a song, taking the different parts, which produced a fine effect, as many of them had good voices, and all sang with spirit.  One young man, in particular, had a falsetto as clear as a clarionet.</p><P>The greater part of the crews of the vessels came ashore every evening, and we passed the time in going about from one house to another, and listening to all manner of languages.  The Spanish was the common ground upon which we all met; for every one knew more or less of that.  We had now, out of forty or fifty, representatives from almost every nation under the sun, --two Englishmen, three Yankees, two Scotchmen, two Welshmen, one Irishman, three Frenchmen (two of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:whom were Normans, and the third from Gascony), one Dutchman, one Austrian, two or three Spaniards (from old Spain), half a dozen Spanish-Americans and half-breeds, two native Indians from Chili and the Island of Chiloe, one negro, one mulatto, about twenty Italians, from all parts of Italy, as many more Sandwich-Islanders, one Tahitian, and one Kanaka from the Marquesas Islands.</p><P>The night before the vessels were ready to sail, all the Europeans united and had an entertainment at the Rosa's hide-house, and we had songs of every nation and tongue.  A German gave us "Ach! mein lieber Augustin!" the three Frenchmen roared through the Marseilles Hymn; the English and Scotchmen gave us "Rule Britannia," and "Wha'll be King but Charlie?" the Italians and Spaniards screamed through some national affairs, for which I was none the wiser; and we three Yankees made an attempt at the "Star-spangled Banner."  After these national tributes had been paid, the Austrian gave us a pretty little love-song, and the Frenchmen sang a spirited thing, --"Sentinelle!  O prenez garde a&grave; vous!"--and then followed the <HI REND="italics">me&acute;lange</HI>
139.sgm: which might have been expected.  When I left them, the aguardiente and annisou were pretty well in their heads, they were all singing and talking at once, and their peculiar national oaths were getting as plenty as pronouns.</p><P>The next day, the two vessels got under way for the windward, and left us in quiet possession of the beach.  Our numbers were somewhat enlarged by the opening of the new houses, and the <HI REND="italics">society</HI>
139.sgm: of the beach was a little changed.  In charge of the Catalina's house was an old Scotchman, Robert, who, like most of his countrymen, had some education, and, like many of them, was rather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:pragmatical, and had a ludicrously solemn conceit of himself.  He employed his time in taking care of his pigs, chickens, turkeys, dogs, &amp;c., and in smoking his long pipe.  Everything was as neat as a pin in the house, and he was as regular in his hours as a chronometer, but, as he kept very much by himself, was not a great addition to our society.  He hardly spent a cent all the time he was on the beach, and the others said he was no shipmate.  He had been a petty officer on board the British frigate Dublin, Captain Lord James Townshend, and had great ideas of his own importance.  The man in charge of the Rosa's house, Schmidt, was an Austrian, but spoke, read, and wrote four languages with ease and correctness.  German was his native tongue, but being born near the borders of Italy, and having sailed out of Genoa, the Italian was almost as familiar to him as his own language.  He was six years on board of an English man-of-war, where he learned to speak our language easily, and also to read and write it.  He had been several years in Spanish vessels, and had acquired that language so well that he could read books in it.  He was between forty and fifty years of age, and was a singular mixture of the man-of-war's-man and Puritan.  He talked a great deal about propriety and steadiness, and gave good advice to the youngsters and Kanakas, but seldom went up to the town without coming down "three sheets in the wind."  One holiday, he and old Robert (the Scotchman from the Catalina) went up to the town, and got so <HI REND="italics">cosey</HI>
139.sgm:, talking over old stories and giving each other good advice, that they came down, double-backed, on a horse, and both rolled off into the sand as soon as the horse stopped.  This put an end to their pretensions, and they never heard the last of it from the rest of the men.  On the night <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of the entertainment at the Rosa's house, I saw old Schmidt (that was the Austrian's name) standing up by a hogshead, holding on by both hands, and calling out to himself: "Hold on, Schmidt! hold on, my good fellow, or you'll be on your back!"  Still, he was an intelligent, good-natured old fellow, and had a chest full of books, which he willingly lent me to read.  In the same house with him were a Frenchman and an Englishman, the latter a regular-built "man-o'-war Jack," a thorough seaman, a hearty, generous fellow, and, at the same time, a drunken, dissolute dog.  He made it a point to get drunk every time he went to the presidio, when he always managed to sleep on the road, and have his money stolen from him.  These, with a Chilian and half a dozen Kanakas, formed the addition to our company.</p><P>In about six weeks from the time when the Pilgrim sailed, we had all the hides which she left us cured and stowed away; and having cleared up the ground and emptied the vats, and set everything in order, had nothing more to do, until she should come down again, but to supply ourselves with wood.  Instead of going twice a week for this purpose, we determined to give one whole week to getting wood, and then we should have enough to last us half through the summer.  Accordingly we started off every morning, after an early breakfast, with our hatchets in hand, and cut wood until the sun was over the point, --which was our mark for noon, as there was not a watch on the beach, --and then came back to dinner, and after dinner started off again with our hand-cart and ropes, and carted and "backed" it down until sunset.  This we kept up for a week, until we had collected several cords, --enough to last us for six or eight weeks, --when we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:"knocked off" altogether, much to my joy; for, though I liked straying in the woods, and cutting, very well, yet the backing the wood for so great a distance, over an uneven country, was, without exception, the hardest work I had ever done.  I usually had to kneel down, and contrive to heave the load, which was well strapped together, upon my back, and then rise up and start off with it, up the hills and down the vales, sometimes through thickets, --the rough points sticking into the skin and tearing the clothes, so that, at the end of the week I had hardly a whole shirt to my back.</p><P>We were now through all our work, and had nothing more to do until the Pilgrim should come down again.  We had nearly got through our provisions too, as well as our work; for our officer had been very wasteful of them, and the tea, flour, sugar, and molasses were all gone.  We suspected him of sending them up to the town; and he always treated the squaws with molasses when they came down to the beach.  Finding wheat-coffee and dry bread rather poor living, we clubbed together, and I went to the town on horseback, with a great salt-bag behind the saddle, and a few reals in my pocket, and brought back the bag full of onions, beans, pears, watermelons, and other fruits; for the young woman who tended the garden, finding that I belonged to the American ship, and that we were short of provisions, put in a larger portion.  With these we lived like fighting-cocks for a week or two, and had, besides, what the sailors call a "blow-out on sleep," not turning out in the morning until breakfast was ready.  I employed several days in overhauling my chest, and mending up all my old clothes, until I had put everything in order, --"patch upon patch, like a sand-barge's mainsail."  Then I took hold of Bowditch's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Navigator, which I had always with me.  I had been through the greater part of it, and now went carefully over it from beginning to end, working out most of the examples.  That done, and there being no signs of the Pilgrim, I made a descent upon old Schmidt, and borrowed and read all the books there were upon the beach.  Such a dearth was there of these latter articles, that anything, even a little child's story-book, or the half of a shipping calendar, seemed a treasure.  I actually read a jest-book through, from beginning to end, in one day, as I should a novel, and enjoyed it much.  At last, when I thought that there were no more to be had, I found at the bottom of old Schmidt's chest, "Mandeville, a Romance, by Godwin, in five volumes."  This I had never read, but Godwin's name was enough, and, after the wretched trash I had devoured, anything bearing the name of an intellectual man was a prize indeed.  I bore it off, and for two days I was up early and late, reading with all my might, and actually drinking in delight.  It is no extravagance to say that it was like a spring in a desert land.</p><P>From the sublime to the ridiculous--so, with me, from Mandeville to hide-curing--was but a step; for--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July 18th</HI>
139.sgm:, brought us the brig Pilgrim from the windward.  As she came in, we found that she was a good deal altered in her appearance.  Her short top-gallant-masts were up, her bowlines all unrove (except to the courses), the quarter boom-irons off her lower yards, her jack-cross-trees sent down, several blocks got rid of, running rigging rove in new places, and numberless other changes of the same character.  Then, too, there was a new voice giving orders, and a new face on the quarter-deck, --a short, dark-complexioned man, in a green jacket and a high leather cap.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:These changes, of course, set the whole beach on the <HI REND="italics">qui-vive</HI>
139.sgm:, and we were all waiting for the boat to come ashore, that we might have things explained.  At length, after the sails were furled and the anchor carried out, her boat pulled ashore, and the news soon flew that the expected ship had arrived at Santa Barbara, and that Captain Thompson had taken command of her, and her captain, Faucon, had taken the Pilgrim, and was the green-jacketed man on the quarter-deck.  The boat put directly off again, without giving us time to ask any more questions, and we were obliged to wait till night, when we took a little skiff, that lay on the beach, and paddled off.  When I stepped aboard, the second mate called me aft, and gave me a large bundle, directed to me, and marked "Ship Alert."  This was what I had longed for, yet I refrained from opening it until I went ashore.  Diving down into the forecastle, I found the same old crew, and was really glad to see them again.  Numerous inquiries passed as to the new ship, the latest news from Boston, &amp;c., &amp;c.  Stimson had received letters from home, and nothing remarkable had happened.  The Alert was agreed on all hands to be a fine ship, and a large one: "Larger than the Rosa," --"Big enough to carry off all the hides in California," --"Rail as high as a man's head," --"A crack ship," --"A regular dandy," &amp;c., &amp;c.  Captain Thompson took command of her, and she went directly up to Monterey; thence she was to go to San Francisco, and probably would not be in San Diego under two or three months.  Some of the Pilgrim's crew found old shipmates aboard of her, and spent an hour or two in her forecastle the evening before she sailed.  They said her decks were as white as snow, --holystoned every morning, like a man-of-war's; everything on board "ship-shape and Bristol fashion"; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:a fine crew, three mates, a sailmaker and carpenter, and all complete.  "They've got a <HI REND="italics">man</HI>
139.sgm: for mate of that ship, and not a bloody <HI REND="italics">sheep</HI>
139.sgm: about decks!"--"A mate that knows his duty, and makes everybody do theirs, and won't be imposed upon by either captain or crew."  After collecting all the information we could get on this point, we asked something about their new captain.  He had hardly been on board long enough for them to know much about him, but he had taken hold strong, as soon as he took command, --shifting the top-gallant-masts, and unreeving all the studding-sail gear and half the running rigging, the very first day.</p><P>Having got all the news we could, we pulled ashore; and as soon as we reached the house, I, as might be supposed, fell directly to opening my bundle, and found a reasonable supply of duck, flannel shirts, shoes, &amp;c., and, what was still more valuable, a packet of eleven letters.  These I sat up nearly all night reading, and put them carefully away, to be re-read again and again at my leisure.  Then came half a dozen newspapers, the last of which gave notice of Thanksgiving, and of the clearance of "ship Alert, Edward H. Faucon, master, for Callao and California, by Bryant, Sturgis, &amp; Co."  Only those who have been on distant voyages, and after a long absence received a newspaper from home, can understand the delight that they give one.  I read every part of them, --the houses to let, things lost or stolen, auction sales, and all.  Nothing carries you so entirely to a place, and makes you feel so perfectly at home, as a newspaper.  The very name of "Boston Daily Advertiser" "sounded hospitably upon the ear."</p><P>The Pilgrim discharged her hides, which set us at work again, and in a few days we were in the old routine of dry hides, wet hides, cleaning, beating, &amp;c.  Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Faucon came quietly up to me, as I was sitting upon a stretched hide, cutting the meat from it with my knife, and asked me how I liked California, and repeated, -- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Tityre, tu patul&aelig; recubans subtegmine fagi."</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>Very <HI REND="italics">apropos</HI>
139.sgm:, thought I, and, at the same time, shows that you have studied Latin.  However, it was kind of him, and an attention from a captain is a thing not to be slighted.  Thompson's majesty could not have bent to it, in the sight of so many mates and men; but Faucon was a man of education, literary habits, and good social position, and held things at their right value.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, July 11th</HI>
139.sgm:.  The Pilgrim set sail for the windward, and left us to go on in our old way.  Having laid in such a supply of wood, and the days being now long, and invariably pleasant, we had a good deal of time to ourselves.  The duck I received from home I soon made up into trousers and frocks, and, having formed the remnants of the duck into a cap, I displayed myself, every Sunday, in a complete suit of my own make, from head to foot.  Reading, mending, sleeping, with occasional excursions into the bush, with the dogs, in search of coyotes, hares, and rabbits, or to encounter a rattlesnake, and now and then a visit to the presidio, filled up our spare time after hide-curing was over for the day.  Another amusement which we sometimes indulged in was "burning the water" for craw-fish.  For this purpose we procured a pair of <HI REND="italics">grains</HI>
139.sgm:, with a long staff like a harpoon, and, making torches with tarred rope twisted round a long pine stick, took the only boat on the beach, a small skiff, and with a torch-bearer in the bow, a steersman in the stern, and one man on each side with the grains, went off, on dark nights, to burn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BURNING THE WATER</p></CAPTION>
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139.sgm:the water.  This is fine sport.  Keeping within a few rods of the shore, where the water is not more than three or four feet deep, with a clear, sandy bottom, the torches light everything up so that one could almost have seen a pin among the grains of sand.  The craw-fish are an easy prey, and we used soon to get a load of them.  The other fish were more difficult to catch, yet we frequently speared a number of them, of various kinds and sizes.  The Pilgrim brought us a supply of fish-hooks, which we had never had before on the beach, and for several days we went down to the Point, and caught a quantity of cod and mackerel.  On one of these expeditions, we saw a battle between two Sandwich-Islanders and a shark.  "Johnny" had been playing about our boat for some time, driving away the fish, and showing his teeth at our bait, when we missed him, and in a few minutes heard a great shouting between two Kanakas who were fishing on the rock opposite to us: " <HI REND="italics">E hana hana make i ka ia nui!"  "E pii mai Aikane</HI>
139.sgm:!" &amp;c., &amp;c.; and saw them pulling away on a stout line, and "Johnny Shark" floundering at the other end.  The line soon broke; but the Kanakas would not let him off so easily, and sprang directly into the water after him.  Now came the tug of war.  Before he could get into deep water, one of them seized him by the tail, and ran up with him upon the beach; but Johnny twisted round, and turning his head under his body, and showing his teeth in the vicinity of the Kanaka's hand, made him let go and spring out of the way.  The shark now turned tail and made the best of his way, by flapping and floundering, toward deep water; but here again, before he was fairly off, the other Kanaka seized him by the tail, and made a spring toward the beach, his companion at the same time paying away upon him with stones and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:large stick.  As soon, however, as the shark could turn, the man was obliged to let go his hold; but the instant he made toward deep water, they were both behind him, watching their chance to seize him.  In this way the battle went on for some time, the shark, in a rage, splashing and twisting about, and the Kanakas, in high excitement, yelling at the top of their voices.  But the shark at last got off, carrying away a hook and line, and not a few severe bruises.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>WE kept up a constant connection with the presidio, and by the close of the summer I had added much to my vocabulary, beside having made the acquaintance of nearly everybody in the place, and acquired some knowledge of the character and habits of the people, as well as of the institutions under which they live.</p><P>California was discovered in 1534 by Ximenes, or in 1536 by Cortes, I cannot settle which, and was subsequently visited by many other adventurers, as well as commissioned voyagers of the Spanish crown.  It was found to be inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians, and to be in many parts extremely fertile; to which, of course, were added rumors of gold mines, pearl fishery, &amp;c.  No sooner was the importance of the country known, than the Jesuits obtained leave to establish themselves in it, to Christianize and enlighten the Indians.  They established missions in various parts of the country toward the close of the seventeenth century, and collected the natives about them, baptizing them into the Church, and teaching them the arts of civilized life.  To protect the Jesuits in their missions, and at the same time to support the power of the crown over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:civilized Indians, two forts were erected and garrisoned, --one at San Diego, and the other at Monterey.  These were called presidios, and divided the command of the whole country between them.  Presidios have since been established at Santa Barbara, San Francisco, and other places, dividing the country into large districts, each with its presidio, and governed by a commandante.  The soldiers, for the most part, married civilized Indians; and thus, in the vicinity of each presidio, sprung up, gradually, small towns.  In the course of time, vessels began to come into the ports to trade with the missions and received hides in return; and thus began the great trade of California.  Nearly all the cattle in the country belonged to the missions, and they employed their Indians, who became, in fact, their serfs, in tending their vast herds.  In the year 1793, when Vancouver visited San Diego, the missions had obtained great wealth and power, and are accused of having depreciated the country with the sovereign, that they might be allowed to retain their possessions.  On the expulsion of the Jesuits from the Spanish dominions, the missions passed into the hands of the Franciscans, though without any essential change in their management.  Ever since the independence of Mexico, the missions had been going down; until, at last, a law was passed, stripping them of all their possessions, and confining the priests to their spiritual duties, at the same time declaring all the Indians free and independent <HI REND="italics">Rancheros</HI>
139.sgm:.  The change in the condition of the Indians was, as may be supposed, only nominal; they are virtually serfs, as much as they ever were.  But in the missions the change was complete.  The priests have now no power, except in their religious character, and the great possessions of the missions are given over to be preyed upon by the harpies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of the civil power, who are sent there in the capacity of <HI REND="italics">administradores</HI>
139.sgm:, to settle up the concerns; and who usually end, in a few years, by making themselves fortunes, and leaving their stewardships worse than they found them.  The dynasty of the priests was much more acceptable to the people of the country, and, indeed, to every one concerned with the country, by trade or otherwise, than that of the administradores.  The priests were connected permanently to one mission, and felt the necessity of keeping up its credit.  Accordingly the debts of the missions were regularly paid, and the people were, in the main, well treated, and attached to those who had spent their whole lives among them.  But the administradores are strangers sent from Mexico, having no interest in the country; not identified in any way with their charge, and, for the most part, men of desperate fortunes, --broken-down politicians and soldiers, --whose only object is to retrieve their condition in as short a time as possible.  The change had been made but a few years before our arrival upon the coast, yet, in that short time, the trade was much diminished, credit impaired, and the venerable missions were going rapidly to decay.</p><P>The external political arrangements remain the same.  There are four or more presidios, having under their protection the various missions, and the pueblos, which are towns formed by the civil power and containing no mission or presidio.  The most northerly presidio is San Francisco, the next Monterey, the next Santa Barbara, including the mission of the same, San Luis Obispo, and Santa Buenaventura, which is said to be the best mission in the whole country, having fertile soil and rich vineyards.  The last, and most southerly, is San Diego, including the mission of the same, San Juan Capistrano, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:the Pueblo de los Angeles, the largest town in California, with the neighboring mission of San Gabriel.  The priests, in spiritual matters, are subject to the Archbishop of Mexico, and in temporal matters to the governor-general, who is the great civil and military head of the country.</p><P>The government of the country is an arbitrary democracy, having no common law, and nothing that we should call a judiciary.  Their only laws are made and unmade at the caprice of the legislature, and are as variable as the legislature itself.  They pass through the form of sending representatives to the congress at Mexico, but as it takes several months to go and return, and there is very little communication between the capital and this distant province, a member usually stays there as permanent member, knowing very well that there will be revolutions at home before he can write and receive an answer; and if another member should be sent, he has only to challenge him, and decide the contested election in that way.</p><P>Revolutions are matters of frequent occurrence in California.  They are got up by men who are at the foot of the ladder and in desperate circumstances, just as a new political organization may be started by such men in our own country.  The only object, of course, is the loaves and fishes; and instead of <HI REND="italics">caucusing</HI>
139.sgm:, paragraphing, libelling, feasting, promising, and lying, they take muskets and bayonets, and, seizing upon the presidio and custom-house, divide the spoils, and declare a new dynasty.  As for justice, they know little law but will and fear.  A Yankee, who had been naturalized, and become a Catholic, and had married in the country, was sitting in his house at the Pueblo de los Angeles, with his wife and children, when a Mexican, with whom he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:had had a difficulty, entered the house, and stabbed him to the heart before them all.  The murderer was seized by some Yankees who had settled there, and kept in confinement until a statement of the whole affair could be sent to the governor-general.  The governor-general refused to do anything about it, and the countrymen of the murdered man, seeing no prospect of justice being administered, gave notice that, if nothing was done, they should try the man themselves.  It chanced that, at this time, there was a company of some thirty or forty trappers and hunters from the Western States, with their rifles, who had made their head-quarters at the Pueblo; and these, together with the Americans and Englishmen in the place, who were between twenty and thirty in number, took possession of the town, and, waiting a reasonable time, proceeded to try the man according to the forms in their own country.  A judge and jury were appointed, and he was tried, convicted, sentenced to be shot, and carried out before the town blindfolded.  The names of all the men were then put into a hat, and each one pledging himself to perform his duty, twelve names were drawn out, and the men took their stations with their rifles, and, firing at the word, laid him dead.  He was decently buried, and the place was restored quietly to the proper authorities.  A general, with titles enough for an hidalgo, was at San Gabriel, and issued a proclamation as long as the fore-top-bowline, threatening destruction to the rebels, but never stirred from his fort; for forty Kentucky hunters, with their rifles, and a dozen of Yankees and Englishmen, were a match for a whole regiment of hungry, drawling, lazy half-breeds.  This affair happened while we were at San Pedro (the port of the Pueblo), and we had the particulars from those who were on the spot.  A few months afterwards, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:another man was murdered on the high-road between the Pueblo and San Luis Rey by his own wife and a man with whom she ran off.  The foreigners pursued and shot them both, according to one story.  According to another version, nothing was done about it, as the parties were natives, and a man whom I frequently saw in San Diego was pointed out as the murderer.  Perhaps they were two cases, that had got mixed.</p><P>When a crime has been committed by Indians, justice, or rather vengeance, is not so tardy.  One Sunday afternoon, while I was at San Diego, an Indian was sitting on his horse, when another, with whom he had had some difficulty, came up to him, drew a long knife, and plunged it directly into the horse's heart.  The Indian sprang from his falling horse, drew out the knife, and plunged it into the other Indian's breast, over his shoulder, and laid him dead.  The fellow was seized at once, clapped into the calabozo, and kept there until an answer could be received from Monterey.  A few weeks afterwards I saw the poor wretch, sitting on the bare ground, in front of the calabozo, with his feet chained to a stake, and handcuffs about his wrists.  I knew there was very little hope for him.  Although the deed was done in hot blood, the horse on which he was sitting being his own, and a favorite with him, yet he was an Indian, and that was enough.  In about a week after I saw him, I heard that he had been shot.  These few instances will serve to give one a notion of the distribution of justice in California.</p><P>In their domestic relations, these people are not better than in their public.  The men are thriftless, proud, extravagant, and very much given to gaming; and the women have but little education, and a good deal of beauty, and their morality, of course, is none of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:best; yet the instances of infidelity are much less frequent than one would at first suppose.  In fact, one vice is set over against another; and thus something like a balance is obtained.  If the women have but little virtue, the jealousy of their husbands is extreme, and their revenge deadly and almost certain.  A few inches of cold steel has been the punishment of many an unwary man, who has been guilty, perhaps, of nothing more than indiscretion.  The difficulties of the attempt are numerous, and the consequences of discovery fatal, in the better classes.  With the unmarried women, too, great watchfulness is used.  The main object of the parents is to marry their daughters well, and to this a fair name is necessary.  The sharp eyes of a duen&tilde;a, and the ready weapons of a father or brother, are a protection which the characters of most of them--men and women--render by no means useless; for the very men who would lay down their lives to avenge the dishonor of their own family would risk the same lives to complete the dishonor of another.</p><P>Of the poor Indians very little care is taken.  The priests, indeed, at the missions, are said to keep them very strictly, and some rules are usually made by the alcaldes to punish their misconduct; yet it all amounts to but little.  Indeed, to show the entire want of any sense of morality or domestic duty among them, I have frequently known an Indian to bring his wife, to whom he was lawfully married in the church, down to the beach, and carry her back again, dividing with her the money which she had got from the sailors.  If any of the girls were discovered by the alcalde to be open evil livers, they were whipped, and kept at work sweeping the square of the presidio, and carrying mud and bricks for the buildings; yet a few reals would generally buy them off.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Intemperance, too, is a common vice among the Indians.  The Mexicans, on the contrary, are abstemious, and I do not remember ever having seen a Mexican intoxicated.</p><P>Such are the people who inhabit a country embracing four or five hundred miles of sea-coast, with several good harbors; with fine forests in the north; the waters filled with fish, and the plains covered with thousands of herds of cattle; blessed with a climate than which there can be no better in the world; free from all manner of diseases, whether epidemic or endemic; and with a soil in which corn yields from seventy to eighty fold.  In the hands of an enterprising people, what a country this might be! we are ready to say.  Yet how long would a people remain so, in such a country?  The Americans (as those from the United States are called) and Englishmen, who are fast filling up the principal towns, and getting the trade into their hands, are indeed more industrious and effective than the Mexicans; yet their children are brought up Mexicans in most respects, and if the "California fever" (laziness) spares the first generation, it is likely to attack the second.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, <HI REND="italics">July 18th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This day sailed the Mexican hermaphrodite brig Fazio, for San Blas and Mazatlan.  This was the brig which was driven ashore at San Pedro in a southeaster, and had been lying at San Diego to repair and take in her cargo.  The owner of her had had a good deal of difficulty with the government about the duties, &amp;c., and her sailing had been delayed for several weeks; but everything having been arranged, she got under way with a light breeze, and was floating out of the harbor, when two horsemen came dashing down to the beach at full speed, and tried to find a boat to put off after her; but there being none then at hand, they offered a handful of silver to any Kanaka who would swim off and take a letter on board.  One of the Kanakas, an active, well-made young fellow, instantly threw off everything but his duck trousers, and, putting the letter into his hat, swam off, after the vessel.  Fortunately the wind was very light, and the vessel was going slowly, so that, although she was nearly a mile off when he started, he gained on her rapidly.  He went through the water leaving a wake like a small steamboat.  I certainly never saw such swimming before.  They saw him coming from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:deck, but did not heave-to, suspecting the nature of his errand; yet, the wind continuing light, he swam alongside, and got on board, and delivered his letter.  The captain read the letter, told the Kanaka there was no answer, and, giving him a glass of brandy, left him to jump overboard and find the best of his way to the shore.  The Kanaka swam in for the nearest point of land, and in about an hour made his appearance at the hide-house.  He did not seem at all fatigued, had made three or four dollars, got a glass of brandy, and was in high spirits.  The brig kept on her course, and the government officers, who had come down to forbid her sailing, went back, each with something very like a flea in his ear, having depended upon extorting a little more money from the owner.</p><P>It was now nearly three months since the Alert arrived at Santa Barbara, and we began to expect her daily.  About half a mile behind the hide-house was a high hill, and every afternoon, as soon as we had done our work, some one of us walked up to see if there was a sail in sight, coming down before the regular trades.  Day after day we went up the hill, and came back disappointed.  I was anxious for her arrival, for I had been told by letter, that the owners in Boston, at the request of my friends, had written to Captain Thompson to take me on board the Alert, in case she returned to the United States before the Pilgrim; and I, of course, wished to know whether the order had been received, and what was the destination of the ship.  One year, more or less, might be of small consequence to others, but it was everything to me.  It was now just a year since we sailed from Boston, and, at the shortest, no vessel could expect to get away under eight or nine months, which would make our absence two years in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:all.  This would be pretty long, but would not be fatal.  It would not necessarily be decisive of my future life.  But one year more might settle the matter.  I might be a sailor for life; and although I had pretty well made up my mind to it before I had my letters from home, yet, as soon as an opportunity was held out to me of returning, and the prospect of another kind of life was opened to me, my anxiety to return, and, at least, to have the chance of deciding upon my course for myself, was beyond measure.  Beside that, I wished to be "equal to either fortune," and to qualify myself for an officer's berth, and a hide-house was no place to learn seamanship in.  I had become experienced in hide-curing, and everything went on smoothly, and I had many opportunities of becoming acquainted with the people, and much leisure for reading and studying navigation; yet practical seamanship could only be got on board ship, therefore I determined to ask to be taken on board the ship when she arrived.  By the first of August we finished curing all our hides, stored them away, cleaned out our vats (in which latter work we spent two days, up to our knees in mud and the sediments of six months' hide-curing, in a stench which would drive a donkey from his breakfast), and got all in readiness for the arrival of the ship, and had another leisure interval of three or four weeks.  I spent these, as usual, in reading, writing, studying, making and mending my clothes, and getting my wardrobe in complete readiness in case I should go on board the ship; and in fishing, ranging the woods with the dogs, and in occasional visits to the presidio and mission.  A good deal of my time was passed in taking care of a little puppy, which I had selected from thirty-six that were born within three days of one another at our house.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:He was a fine, promising pup, with four white paws, and all the rest of his body of a dark brown.  I built a little kennel for him, and kept him fastened there, away from the other dogs, feeding and disciplining him myself.  In a few weeks I brought him into complete subjection, and he grew nicely, was much attached to me, and bade fair to be one of the leading dogs on the beach.  I called him <HI REND="italics">Bravo</HI>
139.sgm:, and all I regretted at the thought of leaving the beach was parting from him and the Kanakas.</p><P>Day after day we went up the hill, but no ship was to be seen, and we began to form all sorts of conjectures as to her whereabouts; and the theme of every evening's conversation at the different houses, and in our afternoon's <HI REND="italics">paseo</HI>
139.sgm: upon the beach, was the ship, --where she could be, had she been to San Francisco, how many hides she would bring, &amp;c., &amp;c.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, August 25th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This morning the officer in charge of our house went off beyond the point a-fishing, in a small canoe, with two Kanakas; and we were sitting quietly in our room at the hide-house, when, just before noon, we heard a complete yell of "Sail ho!" breaking out from all parts of the beach at once, --from the Kanakas' oven to the Rosa's hide-house.  In an instant every one was out of his house, and there was a tall, gallant ship, with royals and skysails set, bending over before the stong afternoon breeze, and coming rapidly round the point.  Her yards were braced sharp up; every sail was set, and drew well; the stars and stripes were flying from her mizzen-peak, and, having the tide in her favor, she came up like a race-horse.  It was nearly six months since a new vessel had entered San Diego, and, of course, every one was wide awake.  She certainly made a fine appearance.  Her light sails were taken in, as she passed the low, sandy tongue of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:land, and clewing up her head sails, she rounded handsomely to under her mizzen topsail, and let go her anchor at about a cable's length from the shore.  In a few minutes the topsail yards were manned, and all three of the topsails furled at once.  From the fore top-gallant yard, the men slid down the stay to furl the jib, and from the mizzen top-gallant yard, by the stay, into the main-top, and thence to the yard; and the men on the topsail yards came down the lifts to the yard-arms of the courses.  The sails were furled with great care, the bunts triced up by jiggers, and the jibs stowed in cloth.  The royal-yards were then struck, tackles got upon the yard-arms and the stay, the long-boat hoisted out, a large anchor carried astern, and the ship moored.  This was the Alert.</p><P>The gig was lowered away from the quarter, and a boat's crew of fine lads, between the ages of fourteen and eighteen, pulled the captain ashore.  The gig was a light whale-boat, handsomely painted, and fitted up with cushions and tiller-ropes in the stern sheets.  We immediately attacked the boat's crew, and got very thick with them in a few minutes.  We had much to ask about Boston, their passage out, &amp;c., and they were very curious to know about the kind of life we were leading upon the beach.  One of them offered to exchange with me, which was just what I wanted, and we had only to get the permission of the captain.</p><P>After dinner the crew began discharging their hides, and, as we had nothing to do at the hide-houses, we were ordered aboard to help them.  I had now my first opportunity of seeing the ship which I hoped was to be my home for the next year.  She looked as well on board as she did from without.  Her decks were wide and roomy (there being no poop, or house on deck, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:disfigures the after part of most of our vessels), flush fore and aft, and as white as flax, which the crew told us was from constant use of holystones.  There was no foolish gilding and gingerbread work, to take the eye of landsmen and passengers, but everything was "ship-shape."  There was no rust, no dirt, no rigging hanging slack, no fag-ends of ropes and "Irish pendants" aloft, and the yards were squared "to a <HI REND="italics">t</HI>
139.sgm: " by lifts and braces.  The mate was a hearty fellow, with a roaring voice, and always wide awake.  He was "a man, every inch of him," as the sailors said; and though "a bit of a horse," and "a hard customer," yet he was generally liked by the crew.  There was also a second and third mate, a carpenter, sailmaker, steward, and cook, and twelve hands before the mast.  She had on board seven thousand hides, which she had collected at the windward, and also horns and tallow.  All these we began discharging from both gangways at once into the two boats, the second mate having charge of the launch, and the third mate of the pinnace.  For several days we were employed in this way, until all the hides were taken out, when the crew began taking in ballast; and we returned to our old work, hide-curing.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, August 29th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Arrived, brig Catalina, from the windward.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, August 30th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This was the first Sunday that the Alert's crew had been in San Diego, and of course they were all for going up to see the town.  The Indians came down early, with horses to let for the day, and those of the crew who could obtain liberty went off to the Presidio and Mission, and did not return until night.  I had seen enough of San Diego, and went on board and spent the day with some of the crew, whom I found quietly at work in the forecastle, either mending and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:washing their clothes, or reading and writing.  They told me that the ship stopped at Callao on the passage out, and lay there three weeks.  She had a passage of a little over eighty days from Boston to Callao, which is one of the shortest on record.  There they left the Brandywine frigate, and some smaller American ships of war, and the English frigate Blonde, and a French seventy-four.  From Callao they came directly to California, and had visited every port on the coast, including San Francisco.  The forecastle in which they lived was large, tolerably well lighted by bull's-eyes, and, being kept perfectly clean, had quite a comfortable appearance; at least, it was far better than the little, black, dirty hole in which I had lived so many months on board the Pilgrim.  By the regulations of the ship, the forecastle was cleaned out every morning; and the crew, being very neat, kept it clean by some regulations of their own, such as having a large spit-box always under the steps and between the bits, and obliging every man to hang up his wet clothes, &amp;c.  In addition to this, it was holystoned every Saturday morning.  In the after part of the ship was a handsome cabin, a dining-room, and a trade-room, fitted out with shelves, and furnished with all sorts of goods.  Between these and the forecastle was the "between-decks," as high as the gun-deck of a frigate, being six feet and a half, under the beams.  These between-decks were holystoned regularly, and kept in the most perfect order; the carpenter's bench and tools being in one part, the sailmaker's in another, and boatswain's locker, with the spare rigging, in a third.  A part of the crew slept here, in hammocks swung fore and aft from the beams, and triced up every morning.  The sides of the between-decks were clapboarded, the knees and stanchions of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:iron, and the latter made to unship.  The crew said she was as tight as a drum, and a fine sea boat, her only fault being--that of most fast ships--that she was wet forward.  When she was going, as she sometimes would, eight or nine knots on a wind, there would not be a dry spot forward of the gangway.  The men told great stories of her sailing, and had entire confidence in her as a "lucky ship."  She was seven years old, had always been in the Canton trade, had never met with an accident of any consequence, nor made a passage that was not shorter than the average.  The third mate, a young man about eighteen years of age, nephew of one of the owners, had been in the ship from a small boy, and "believed in the ship"; and the chief mate thought as much of her as he would of a wife and family.</p><P>The ship lay about a week longer in port, when, having discharged her cargo and taken in ballast, she prepared to get under way.  I now made my application to the captain to go on board.  He told me that I could go home in the ship when she sailed (which I knew before); and, finding that I wished to be on board while she was on the coast, said he had no objection, if I could find one of my own age to exchange with me for the time.  This I easily accomplished, for they were glad to change the scene by a few months on shore, and, moreover, escape the winter and the southeasters; and I went on board the next day, with my chest and hammock, and found myself once more afloat.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, <HI REND="italics">September 8th, 1835</HI>
139.sgm:.  This was my first day's duty on board the ship; and though a sailor's life is a sailor's life wherever it may be, yet I found everything very different here from the customs of the brig Pilgrim.  After all hands were called at daybreak, three minutes and a half were allowed for the men to dress and come on deck, and if any were longer than that, they were sure to be overhauled by the mate, who was always on deck, and making himself heard all over the ship.  The head-pump was then rigged, and the decks washed down by the second and third mates; the chief mate walking the quarter-deck, and keeping a general supervision, but not deigning to touch a bucket or a brush.  Inside and out, fore and aft, upper deck and between-decks, steerage and forecastle, rail, bulwarks, and water-ways, were washed, scrubbed, and scraped with brooms and canvas, and the decks were wet and sanded all over, and then holystoned.  The holystone is a large, soft stone, smooth on the bottom, with long ropes attached to each end, by which the crew keep it sliding fore and aft over the wet sanded decks.  Smaller hand-stones, which the sailors call "prayer-books," are used to scrub in among the crevices and narrow places, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:where the large holystone will not go.  An hour or two we were kept at this work, when the head-pump was manned, and all the sand washed off the decks and sides.  Then came swabs and squilgees; and, after the decks were dry, each one went to his particular morning job.  There were five boats belonging to the ship, --launch, pinnace, jolly-boat, larboard quarter-boat, and gig--each of which had a coxswain, who had charge of it, and was answerable for the order and cleanness of it.  The rest of the cleaning was divided among the crew; one having the brass and composition work about the capstan; another the bell, which was of brass, and kept as bright as a gilt button; a third, the harness-cask; another, the man-rope stanchions; others, the steps of the forecastle and hatchways, which were hauled up and holystoned.  Each of these jobs must be finished before breakfast; and in the mean time the rest of the crew filled the scuttled-butt, and the cook scraped his kids (wooden tubs out of which sailors eat), and polished the hoops, and placed them before the galley to await inspection.  When the decks were dry, the lord paramount made his appearance on the quarter-deck, and took a few turns, eight bells were struck, and all hands went to breakfast.  Half an hour was allowed for breakfast, when all hands were called again; the kids, pots, bread-bags, &amp;c., stowed away; and, this morning, preparations were made for getting under way.  We paid out on the chain by which we swung, hove in on the other, catted the anchor, and hove short on the first.  This work was done in shorter time than was usual on board the brig; for though everything was more than twice as large and heavy, the cat-block being as much as a man could lift, and the chain as large as three of the Pilgrim's, yet there was a plenty of room to move <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:about in, more discipline and system, more men, and more good-will.  Each seemed ambitious to do his best.  Officers and men knew their duty, and all went well.  As soon as she was hove short, the mate, on the fore-castle, gave the order to loose the sails! and, in an instant all sprung into the rigging, up the shrouds, and out on the yards, scrambling by one another, --the first up, the best fellow, --cast off the yard-arm gaskets and bunt gaskets, and one man remained on each yard, holding the bunt jigger with a turn round the tye, all ready to let go, while the rest laid down to man the sheets and halyards.  The mate then hailed the yards, --"All ready forward?"--"All ready the cross-jack yards?" &amp;c., &amp;c.; and "Aye, aye, sir!" being returned from each, the word was given to let go; and, in the twinkling of an eye, the ship, which had shown nothing but her bare yards, was covered with her loose canvas, from the royal-mast-heads to the decks.  All then came down, except one man in each top, to overhaul the rigging, and the top-sails were hoisted and sheeted home, the three yards going to the mast-head at once, the larboard watch hoisting the fore, the starboard watch the main, and five light hands (of whom I was one), picked from the two watches, the mizzen.  The yards were then trimmed, the anchor weighed, the cat-block hooked on, the fall stretched out, manned by "all hands and the cook," and the anchor brought to the head with "cheerly, men!" in full chorus.  The ship being now under way, the light sails were set, one after another, and she was under full sail before she had passed the sandy point.  The fore royal, which fell to my lot (as I was in the mate's watch), was more than twice as large as that of the Pilgrim, and, though I could handle the brig's easily, I found my hands full with this, especially as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:there were no jacks to the ship, everything being for neatness, and nothing left for Jack to hold on by but his "eyelids."</p><P>As soon as we were beyond the point, and all sail out, the order was given, "Go below, the watch!" and the crew said that, ever since they had been on the coast, they had had "watch and watch" while going from port to port; and, in fact, all things showed that, though strict discipline was kept, and the utmost was required of every man in the way of his duty, yet, on the whole, there was good usage on board.  Each one knew that he must be a man, and show himself such when at his duty, yet all were satisfied with the treatment; and a contented crew, agreeing with one another, and finding no fault, was a contrast indeed with the small, hard-used, dissatisfied, grumbling, desponding crew of the Pilgrim.</p><P>It being the turn of our watch to go below, the men set themselves to work, mending their clothes, and doing other little things for themselves; and I, having got my wardrobe in complete order at San Diego, had nothing to do but to read.  I accordingly overhauled the chests of the crew, but found nothing that suited me exactly, until one of the men said he had a book which "told all about a great highwayman," at the bottom of his chest, and, producing it, I found, to my surprise and joy, that it was nothing else than Bulwer's Paul Clifford.  I seized it immediately, and, going to my hammock, lay there, swinging and reading, until the watch below was out.  The between-decks clear, the hatchways open, a cool breeze blowing through them, the ship under easy way, --everything was comfortable.  I had just got well into the story when eight bells were struck, and we were all ordered to dinner.  After dinner came our watch on deck for four hours, and at four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:o'clock I went below again, turned into my hammock and read until the dog watch.  As lights were not allowed after eight o'clock, there was no reading in the night watch.  Having light winds and calms, we were three days on the passage, and each watch below, during the daytime, I spent in the same manner, until I had finished my book.  I shall never forget the enjoyment I derived from it.  To come across anything with the slightest claims to literary merit was so unusual that this was a feast to me.  The brilliancy of the book, the succession of capital hits, and the lively and characteristic sketches, kept me in a constant state of pleasing sensations.  It was far too good for a sailor.  I could not expect such fine times to last long.</p><P>While on deck, the regular work of the ship went on.  The sailmaker and carpenter worked between decks, and the crew had their work to do upon the rigging, drawing yarns, making spun-yarn, &amp;c., as usual in merchantmen.  The night watches were much more pleasant than on board the Pilgrim.  There, there were so few in a watch, that, one being at the wheel and another on the look-out, there was no one left to talk with; but here we had seven in a watch, so that we had long yarns in abundance.  After two or three night watches, I became well acquainted with the larboard watch.  The sailmaker was the head man of the watch, and was generally considered the most experienced seaman on board.  He was a thorough-bred old man-of-war's-man, had been at sea twenty-two years, in all kinds of vessels, --men-of-war, privateers, slavers, and merchantmen, --everything except whalers, which a thorough man-of-war or merchant seaman looks down upon, and will always steer clear of if he can.  He had, of course, been in most parts of the world, and was remarkable for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:drawing a long bow.  His yarns frequently stretched through a watch, and kept all hands awake.  They were amusing from their improbability, and, indeed, he never expected to be believed, but spun them merely for amusement; and as he had some humor and a good supply of man-of-war slang and sailor's salt phrases, he always made fun.  Next to him in age and experience, and, of course, in standing in the watch, was an Englishman named Harris, of whom I shall have more to say hereafter.  Then came two or three Americans, who had been the common run of European and South American voyages, and one who had been in a "spouter," and, of course, had all the whaling stories to himself.  Last of all was a broad-backed, thick-headed, Cape Cod<ANCHOR ID="n23-1">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: boy, who had been in mackerel schooners, and was making his first voyage in a square-rigged vessel.  He was born in Hingham, and of course was called "Bucket-maker."  The other watch was composed of about the same number.  A tall, fine-looking Frenchman, with coal-black whiskers and curly hair, a first-rate seaman, named John (one name is enough for a sailor); was the head man of the watch.  Then came two Americans (one of whom had been a dissipated young man of some property and respectable connections, and was reduced to duck trousers and monthly wages), a German, an English lad, named Ben, who belonged on the mizzen-topsail yard with me, and was a good sailor for his years, and two Boston boys just from the public schools.  The carpenter sometimes mustered in the starboard watch, and was an old sea-dog, a Swede by birth, and accounted the best helmsman in the ship.  This was our ship's company, beside cook and steward, who were blacks, three mates, and the captain.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-1">Sailors call men from any part of the coast of Massachusetts south of Boston Cape Cod men.</NOTE>
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139.sgm:<P>The second day out, the wind drew ahead, and we had to beat up the coast; so that, in tacking ship, I could see the regulations of the vessel.  Instead of going wherever was most convenient, and running from place to place, wherever work was to be done, each man had his station.  A regular tacking and wearing bill was made out.  The chief mate commanded on the forecastle, and had charge of the head sails and the forward part of the ship.  Two of the best men in the ship, the sailmaker from our watch, and John, the Frenchman, from the other, worked the forecastle.  The third mate commanded in the waist, and, with the carpenter and one man, worked the main tack and bowline; the cook, <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
139.sgm:, the fore sheet, and the steward the main.  The second mate had charge of the after yards, and let go the lee fore and main braces.  I was stationed at the weather cross-jack braces; three other light hands at the lee; one boy at the spanker-sheet and guy; a man and a boy at the main topsail, top-gallant, and royal braces; and all the rest of the crew--men and boys--tallied on to the main brace.  Every one here knew his station, must be there when all hands were called to put the ship about, and was answerable for the ropes committed to him.  Each man's rope must be let go and hauled in at the order, properly made fast, and neatly coiled away when the ship was about.  As soon as all hands are at their stations, the captain, who stands on the weather side of the quarter-deck, makes a sign to the man at the wheel to put it down, and calls out "Helm's a lee'!"  "Helm's a lee'!" answers the mate on the forecastle, and the head sheets are let go.  "Raise tacks and sheets!" says the captain; "tacks and sheets!" is passed forward, and the fore tack and main sheet are let go.  The next thing is to haul taut for a swing.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:weather cross-jack braces and the lee main braces are belayed together upon two pins, and ready to be let go, and the opposite "Well hauled taut.  "Main topsail haul!" shouts the captain; the braces are let go; and if he has chosen his time well, the yards swing round like a top; but if he is too late, or too soon, it is like drawing teeth.  The after yards are then braced up and belayed, the main sheet hauled aft, the spanker eased over to leeward, and the men from the braces stand by the head yards.  "Let go and haul!" says the captain; the second mate lets go the weather fore braces, and the men haul in to leeward.  The mate, on the forecastle, looks out for the head yards.  " <HI REND="italics">Well</HI>
139.sgm: the fore topsail yard!"  "Top-gallant yard's <HI REND="italics">well</HI>
139.sgm:!"  "Royal yard too much!  Haul in to windward!  So! well <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
139.sgm:!"  "Well <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
139.sgm:!"  Then the starboard watch board the main tack, and the larboard watch lay forward and board the fore tack and haul down the jib sheet, clapping a tackle upon it if it blows very fresh.  The after yards are then trimmed, the captain generally looking out for them himself.  "Well the cross-jack<ANCHOR ID="n23-2">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: yard!"  "Small pull the main top-gallant yard!"  "Well <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
139.sgm:!"  "Well the mizzen topsail yard!"  "Cross-jack yards all <HI REND="italics">well</HI>
139.sgm:!"  "Well all aft!"  "Haul taut to windward!"  Everything being now trimmed and in order, each man coils up the rigging at his own station, and the order is given, "Go below the watch!"</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-2">Pronounced <HI REND="italics">croj-ac</HI>
139.sgm:<P>During the last twenty-four hours of the passage, we beat off and on the land, making a tack about once in four hours, so that I had sufficient opportunity to observe the working of the ship; and certainly it took no more men to brace about this ship's lower yards, which were more than fifty feet square, than it did those of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Pilgrim, which were not much more than half the size; so much depends upon the manner in which the braces run, and the state of the blocks; and Captain Wilson, of the Ayacucho, who was afterwards a passenger with us, upon a trip to windward, said he had no doubt that our ship worked two men lighter than his brig.  This light working of the ship was owing to the attention and seamanship of Captain Faucon.  He had reeved anew nearly all the running rigging of the ship, getting rid of useless blocks, putting single blocks for double wherever he could, using pendent blocks, and adjusting the purchases scientifically.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, September 11th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This morning, at four o'clock, went below, San Pedro point being about two leagues ahead, and the ship going on under studding-sails.  In about an hour we were waked up by the hauling of the chain about decks, and in a few minutes "All hands ahoy!" was called; and we were all at work, hauling in and making up the studding-sails, overhauling the chain forward, and getting the anchors ready.  "The Pilgrim is there at anchor," said some one, as we were running about decks; and, taking a moment's look over the rail, I saw my old friend, deeply laden, lying at anchor inside of the kelp.  In coming to anchor, as well as in tacking ship, each one had his station and duty.  The light sails were clewed up and furled, the courses hauled up, and the jibs down; then came the topsails in the buntlines, and the anchor let go.  As soon as she was well at anchor, all hands lay aloft to furl the topsails; and this, I soon found, was a great matter on board this ship; for every sailor knows that a vessel is judged of, a good deal, by the furl of her sails.  The third mate, sailmaker, and the larboard watch, went upon the fore topsail yard; the second mate, carpenter, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:starboard watch, upon the main; and I, and the English lad, and the two Boston boys, and the young Cape Cod man, furled the mizzen topsail.  This sail belonged to us altogether to reef and to furl, and not a man was allowed to come upon our yard.  The mate took us under his special care, frequently making us furl the sail over three or four times, until we got the bunt up to a perfect cone, and the whole sail without a wrinkle.  As soon as each sail was hauled up and the bunt made, the jigger was bent on to the slack of the buntlines, and the bunt triced up, on deck.  The mate then took his place between the knight-heads to "twig" the fore, on the windlass to twig the main, and at the foot of the mainmast for the mizzen; and if anything was wrong, --too much bunt on one side, clews too taut or too slack, or any sail abaft the yard, --the whole must be dropped again.  When all was right, the bunts were triced well up, the yard-arm gaskets passed, so as not to leave a wrinkle forward of the yard--short gaskets, with turns close together.</p><P>From the moment of letting go the anchor, when the captain ceases his care of things, the chief mate is the great man.  With a voice like a young lion, he was hallooing in all directions, making everything fly, and, at the same time, doing everything well.  He was quite a contrast to the worthy, quiet, unobtrusive mate of the Pilgrim, not a more estimable man, perhaps, but a far better mate of a vessel; and the entire change in Captain Thompson's conduct, since he took command of the ship, was owing, no doubt, in a great measure, to this fact.  If the chief officer wants force, discipline slackens, everything gets out of joint, and the captain interferes continually; that makes a difficulty between them, which encourages the crew, and the whole ends in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:three-sided quarrel.  But Mr. Brown (a Marblehead man) wanted no help from anybody, took everything into his own hands, and was more likely to encroach upon the authority of the master than to need any spurring.  Captain Thompson gave his directions to the mate in private, and, except in coming to anchor, getting under way, tacking, reefing topsails, and other "all-hands-work," seldom appeared in person.  This is the proper state of things; and while this lasts, and there is a good understanding aft, everything will go on well.</p><P>Having furled all the sails, the royal yards were next to be sent down.  The English lad and myself sent down the main, which was larger than the Pilgrim's main top-gallant yard; two more light hands the fore, and one boy the mizzen.  This order we kept while on the coast, sending them up and down every time we came in and went out of port.  They were all tripped and lowered together, the main on the starboard side, and the fore and mizzen to port.  No sooner was she all snug, than tackles were got up on the yards and stays, and the long-boat and pinnace hove out.  The swinging booms were then guyed out, and the boats made fast by geswarps, and everything in harbor style.  After breakfast, the hatches were taken off, and everything got ready to receive hides from the Pilgrim.  All day, boats were passing and repassing, until we had taken her hides from her, and left her in ballast trim.  These hides made but little show in our hold, though they had loaded the Pilgrim down to the water's edge.  This changing of the hides settled the question of the destination of the two vessels, which had been one of some speculation with us.  We were to remain in the leeward ports, while the Pilgrim was to sail, the next morning, for San Francisco.  After we had knocked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:off work, and cleared up decks for the night, my friend Stimson came on board, and spent an hour with me in our berth between decks.  The Pilgrim's crew envied me my place on board the ship, and seemed to think that I had got a little to windward of them, especially in the matter of going home first.  Stimson was determined to go home in the Alert, by begging or buying.  If Captain Thompson would not let him come on other terms, he would purchase an exchange with some one of the crew.  The prospect of another year after the Alert should sail was rather "too much of the monkey."  About seven o'clock the mate came down into the steerage in fine trim for fun, roused the boys out of the berth, turned up the carpenter with his fiddle, sent the steward with lights to put in the between-decks, and set all hands to dancing.  The between-decks were high enough to allow of jumping, and being clear, and white, from holystoning, made a good dancing-hall.  Some of the Pilgrim's crew were in the forecastle, and they all turned-to and had a regular sailor's shuffle till eight bells.  The Cape Cod boy could dance the true fisherman's jig, barefooted, knocking with his heels, and slapping the decks with his bare feet, in time with the music.  This was a favorite amusement of the mate's, who used to stand at the steerage door, looking on, and if the boys would not dance, hazed them round with a rope's end, much to the entertainment of the men.</p><P>The next morning, according to the orders of the agent, the Pilgrim set sail for the windward, to be gone three or four months.  She got under way with no fuss, and came so near us as to throw a letter on board, Captain Faucon standing at the tiller himself, and steering her as he would a mackerel smack.  When Captain Thompson was in command of the Pilgrim, there was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:as much preparation and ceremony as there would be in getting a seventy-four under way.  Captain Faucon was a sailor, every inch of him.  He knew what a ship was, and was as much at home in one as a cobbler in his stall.  I wanted no better proof of this than the opinion of the ship's crew, for they had been six months under his command, and knew him thoroughly, and if sailors allow their captain to be a good seaman, you may be sure he is one, for that is a thing they are not usually ready to admit.  To find fault with the seamanship of the captain is a crew's reserved store for grumbling.</p><P>After the Pilgrim left us, we lay three weeks at San Pedro, from the 11th of September until the 2d of October, engaged in the usual port duties of landing cargo, taking off hides, &amp;., &amp;.  These duties were much easier, and went on much more agreeably, than on board the Pilgrim.  "The more the merrier" is the sailor's maxim, and, by a division of labor, a boat's crew of a dozen could take off all the hides brought down in a day without much trouble; and on shore, as well as on board, a good-will, and no discontent or grumbling, make everything go well.  The officer, too, who usually went with us, the third mate, was a pleasant young fellow, and made no unnecessary trouble; so that we generally had a sociable time, and were glad to be relieved from the restraint of the ship.  While here, I often thought of the miserable, gloomy weeks we had spent in this dull place, in the brig; discontent and hard usage on board, and four hands to do all the work on shore.  Give me a big ship.  There is more room, better outfit, better regulation, more life, and more company.  Another thing was better arranged here: we had a regular gig's crew.  A light whale-boat, handsomely painted, and fitted out with stern seats, yoke and tiller-ropes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:hung on the starboard quarter, and was used as the gig.  The youngest lad in the ship, a Boston boy about fourteen years old, was coxswain of this boat, and had the entire charge of her, to keep her clean and have her in readiness to go and come at any hour.  Four light hands, of about the same size and age, of whom I was one, formed her crew.  Each had his oar and seat numbered, and we were obliged to be in our places, have our oars scraped white, our tholepins in, and the fenders over the side.  The bowman had charge of the boat-hook and painter, and the coxswain of the rudder, yoke, and stern-sheets.  Our duty was to carry the captain and agent about, and passengers off and on, which last was no trifling duty, as the people on shore have no boats, and every purchaser, from the boy who buys his pair of shoes, to the trader who buys his casks and bales, was to be brought off and taken ashore in our boat.  Some days, when people were coming and going fast, we were in the boat, pulling off and on, all day long, with hardly time for our meals, making, as we lay nearly three miles off shore, from thirty to forty miles' rowing in a day.  Still, we thought it the best berth in the ship; for when the gig was employed, we had nothing to do with the cargo, except with small bundles which the passengers took with them, and no hides to carry.  Besides, we had the opportunity of seeing everybody, making acquaintances, and hearing the news.  Unless the captain or agent was in the boat, we had no officer with us, and often had fine times with the passengers, who were always willing to talk and joke with us.  Frequently, too, we were obliged to wait several hours on shore, when we would haul the boat up on the beach, and, leaving one to watch her, go to the nearest house, or spend the time in strolling about the beach, picking up shells, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:playing hop-scotch, and other games, on the hard sand.  The others of the crew never left the ship, except for bringing heavy goods and taking off hides; and though we were always in the water, the surf hardly leaving us a dry thread from morning till night, yet we were young, and the climate was good, and we thought it much better than the quiet, humdrum drag and pull on board ship.  We made the acquaintance of nearly half California; for, besides carrying everybody in our boat, --men, women, and children, --all the messages, letters, and light packages went by us, and, being known by our dress, we found a ready reception everywhere.</p><P>At San Pedro, we had none of this amusement, for, there being but one house in the place, there was nothing to see and no company.  All the variety that I had was riding, once a week, to the nearest rancho,<ANCHOR ID="n23-3">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: to order a bullock down to the ship.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-3">This was Sepulveda's rancho, where there was a fight, during our war with Mexico in 1846, between some United States troops and the Mexicans, under Don Andre&acute;as Pico.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>The brig Catalina came in from San Diego, and, being bound to windward, we both got under way at the same time, for a trial of speed up to Santa Barbara, a distance of about eighty miles.  We hove up and got under sail about eleven o'clock at night, with a light land-breeze, which died away toward morning, leaving us becalmed only a few miles from our anchoring-place.  The Catalina, being a small vessel, of less than half our size, put out sweeps and got a boat ahead, and pulled out to sea during the night, so that she had the seabreeze earlier and stronger than we did, and we had the mortification of seeing her standing up the coast with a fine breeze, the sea all ruffled about her, while we were becalmed in-shore.  When the sea-breeze died away, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:she was nearly out of sight; and, toward the latter part of the afternoon, the regular northwest wind setting in fresh, we braced sharp upon it, took a pull at every sheet, tack, and halyard, and stood after her in fine style, our ship being very good upon a taut bowline.  We had nearly five hours of splendid sailing, beating up to windward by long stretches in and off shore, and evidently gaining upon the Catalina at every tack.  When this breeze left us, we were so near as to count the painted ports on her side.  Fortunately, the wind died away when we were on our inward tack, and she on her outward, so we were in-shore, and caught the land-breeze first, which came off upon our quarter, about the middle of the first watch.  All hands were turned up, and we set all sail, to the skysails and the royal studding-sails; and with these, we glided quietly through the water, leaving the Catalina, which could not spread so much canvas as we, gradually astern, and, by daylight, were off Santa Buenaventura, and our competitor nearly out of sight.  The sea-breeze, however, favored her again, while we were becalmed under the headland, and laboring slowly along, and she was abreast of us by noon.  Thus we continued, ahead, astern, and abreast of each other, alternately; now far out at sea, and again close in under the shore.  On the third morning we came into the great bay of Santa Barbara two hours behind the brig, and thus lost the bet; though if the race had been to the point, we should have beaten her by five or six hours.  This, however, settled the relative sailing of the vessels, for it was admitted that although she, being small and light, could gain upon us in very light winds, yet whenever there was breeze enough to set us agoing, we walked away from her like hauling in a line; and, in beating to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:windward, which is the best trial of a vessel, had much the advantage.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, October 4th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This was the day of our arrival; and, somehow or other, our captain seemed to manage, not only to sail, but to come into port, on a Sunday.  The main reason for sailing on Sunday is not, as many people suppose, because it is thought a lucky day but because it is a leisure day.  During the six days the crew are employed upon the cargo and other ship's works, and, Sunday being their only day of rest, whatever additional work can be thrown into it is so much gain to the owners.  This is the reason of our coasters and packets generally sailing on Sunday.  Thus it was with us nearly all the time we were on the coast, and many of our Sundays were lost entirely to us.  The Catholics on shore do not, as a general thing, do regular trading or make journeys on Sunday, but the American has no national religion, and likes to show his independence of priestcraft by doing as he chooses on the Lord's Day.</p><P>Santa Barbara looked very much as it did when I left it five months before: the long sand beach, with the heavy rollers, breaking upon it in a continual roar, and the little town, embedded on the plain, girt by its amphitheatre of mountains.  Day after day the sun shone clear and bright upon the wide bay and the red roofs of the houses, everything being as still as death, the people hardly seeming to earn their sunlight.  Daylight was thrown away upon them.  We had a few visitors, and collected about a hundred hides, and every night, at sundown, the gig was sent ashore to wait for the captain, who spent his evenings in the town.  We always took our monkey-jackets with us, and flint and steel, and made a fire on the beach with the driftwood <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and the bushes which we pulled from the neighboring thickets, and lay down by it, on the sand.  Sometimes we would stray up to the town, if the captain was likely to stay late, and pass the time at some of the houses, in which we were almost always well received by the inhabitants.  Sometimes earlier and sometimes later, the captain came down; when, after a good drenching in the surf, we went aboard, changed our clothes, and turned-in for the night, --yet not for all the night, for there was the anchor watch to stand.</p><P>This leads me to speak of my watchmate for nine months, --and, taking him all in all, the most remarkable man I had ever seen, --Tom Harris.  An hour, every night, while lying in port, Harris and I had the deck to ourselves, and walking fore and aft, night after night, for months, I learned his character and history, and more about foreign nations, the habits of different people, and especially the secrets of sailors' lives and hardships, and also of practical seamanship (in which he was abundantly capable of instructing me), than I could ever have learned elsewhere.  His memory was perfect, seeming to form a regular chain, reaching from his earliest childhood up to the time I knew him, without a link wanting.  His power of calculation, too, was extraordinary.  I called myself pretty quick at figures, and had been through a course of mathematical studies; but, working by my head, I was unable to keep within sight of this man, who had never been beyond his arithmetic.  He carried in his head, not only a log-book of the voyage, which was complete and accurate, and from which no one thought of appealing, but also an accurate registry of the cargo, knowing where each thing was stowed, and how many hides we took in at each port.</p><P>One night he made a rough calculation of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:number of hides that could be stowed in the lower hold, between the fore and main masts, taking the depth of hold and breadth of beam (for he knew the dimensions of every part of a ship before he had been long on board), and the average area and thickness of a hide; and he came surprisingly near the number, as it afterwards turned out.  The mate frequently came to him to know the capacity of different parts of the vessel, and he could tell the sailmaker very nearly the amount of canvas he would want for each sail in the ship; for he knew the hoist of every mast, and spread of each sail, on the head and foot, in feet and inches.  When we were at sea, he kept a running account, in his head, of the ship's way, --the number of knots and the courses; and, if the courses did not vary much during the twenty-four hours, by taking the whole progress and allowing so many eights southing or northing, to so many easting or westing, he would make up his reckoning just before the captain took the sun at noon, and often came very near the mark.  He had, in his chest, several volumes giving accounts of inventions in mechanics, which he read with great pleasure, and made himself master of.  I doubt if he forgot anything that he read.  The only thing in the way of poetry that he ever read was Falconer's Shipwreck, which he was charmed with, and pages of which he could repeat.  He said he could recall the name of every sailor that had ever been his shipmate, and also of every vessel, captain, and officer, and the principal dates of each voyage; and a sailor whom we afterwards fell in with, who had been in a ship with Harris nearly twelve years before, was much surprised at having Harris tell him things about himself which he had entirely forgotten.  His facts, whether dates or events, no one thought of disputing; and his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:opinions few of the sailors dared to oppose, for, right or wrong, he always had the best of the argument with them.  His reasoning powers were striking.  I have had harder work maintaining an argument with him in a watch, even when I knew myself to be right, and he was only doubting, than I ever had before, not from his obstinacy, but from his acuteness.  Give him only a little knowledge of his subject, and, among all the young men of my acquaintance at college, there is not one whom I had not rather meet in an argument than this man.  I never answered a question from him, or advanced an opinion to him, without thinking more than once.  With an iron memory, he seemed to have your whole past conversation at command, and if you said a thing now which ill agreed with something you had said months before, he was sure to have you on the hip.  In fact, I felt, when with him, that I was with no common man.  I had a positive respect for his powers of mind, and thought, often, that if half the pains had been spent upon his education which are thrown away yearly, in our colleges, he would have made his mark.  Like many self-taught men of real merit, he overrated the value of a regular education; and this I often told him, though I had profited by his error; for he always treated me with respect, and often unnecessarily gave way to me, from an overestimate of my knowledge.  For the intellectual capacities of all the rest of the crew, --captain and all, --he had a sovereign contempt.  He was a far better sailor, and probably a better navigator, than the captain, and had more brains than all the after part of the ship put together.  The sailors said, "Tom's got a head as long as the bowsprit," and if any one fell into an argument with him, they would call out: "Ah, Jack! you had better drop that as you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:would a hot potato, for Tom will turn you inside out before you know it!"</p><P>I recollect his posing me once on the subject of the Corn Laws.  I was called to stand my watch, and, coming on deck, found him there before me; and we began, as usual, to walk fore and aft, in the waist.  He talked about the Corn Laws; asked me my opinion about them, which I gave him, and my reasons, my small stock of which I set forth to the best advantage, supposing his knowledge on the subject must be less than mine, if, indeed, he had any at all.  When I had got through, he took the liberty of differing from me, and brought arguments and facts which were new to me, and to which I was unable to reply.  I confessed that I knew almost nothing of the subject, and expressed my surprise at the extent of his information.  He said that, a number of years before, while at a boarding-house in Liverpool, he had fallen in with a pamphlet on the subject, and, as it contained calculations, had read it very carefully, and had ever since wished to find some one who could add to his stock of knowledge on the question.  Although it was many years since he had seen the book, and it was a subject with which he had had no previous acquaintance, yet he had the chain of reasoning, founded upon principles of political economy, fully in his memory; and his facts, so far as I could judge, were correct; at least, he stated them with precision.  The principles of the steam-engine, too, he was familiar with, having been several months on board a steamboat, and made himself master of its secrets.  He knew every lunar star in both hemispheres, and was a master of the quadrant and sextant.  The men said he could take a meridian altitude of the sun from a tar bucket.  Such was the man, who, at forty, was still a dog before the mast, at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:twelve dollars a month.  The reason of this was to be found in his past life, as I had it, at different times, from himself.</p><P>He was an Englishman, a native of Ilfracomb, in Devonshire.  His father was skipper of a small coaster from Bristol, and, dying, left him, when quite young, to the care of his mother, by whose exertions he received a common-school education, passing his winters at school and his summers in the coasting trade until his seven-teenth year, when he left home to go upon foreign voyages.  Of this mother he spoke with the greatest respect, and said that she was a woman of a strong mind, and had an excellent system of education, which had made respectable men of his three brothers, and failed in him only from his own indomitable obstinacy.  One thing he mentioned, in which he said his mother differed from all other mothers that he had ever seen disciplining their children; that was, that when he was out of humor and refused to eat, instead of putting his plate away, saying that his hunger would bring him to it in time, she would stand over him and oblige him to eat it, --every mouthful of it.  It was no fault of hers that he was what I saw him; and so great was his sense of gratitude for her efforts, though unsuccessful, that he determined, when the voyage should end, to embark for home with all the wages he should get, to spend with and for his mother, if perchance he should find her alive.</p><P>After leaving home, he had spent nearly twenty years sailing upon all sorts of voyages, generally out of the ports of New York and Boston.  Twenty years of vice!  Every sin that a sailor knows, he had gone to the bottom of.  Several times he had been hauled up in the hospitals, and as often the great strength of his constitution had brought him out again in health.  Several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:times, too, from his acknowledged capacity, he had been promoted to the office of chief mate, and as often his conduct when in port, especially his drunkenness, which neither fear nor ambition could induce him to abandon, put him back into the forecastle.  One night, when giving me an account of his life, and lamenting the years of manhood he had thrown away, "There," said he, "in the forecastle, at the foot of those steps, a chest of old clothes, is the result of twenty-two years of hard labor and exposure--worked like a horse, and treated like a dog."  As he had grown older, he began to feel the necessity of some provision for his later years, and came gradually to the conviction that rum had been his worst enemy.  One night, in Havana, a young shipmate of his was brought aboard drunk, with a dangerous gash in his head, and his money and new clothes stripped from him.  Harris had been in hundreds of such scenes as these, but in his then state of mind it fixed his determination, and he resolved never to taste a drop of strong drink of any kind.  He signed no pledge, and made no vow, but relied on his own strength of purpose.  The first thing with him was a reason, and then a resolution, and the thing was done.  The date of his resolution he knew, of course, to the very hour.  It was three years before I became acquainted with him, and during all that time nothing stronger than cider or coffee had passed his lips.  The sailors never thought of enticing Tom to take a glass, any more than they would of talking to the ship's compass.  He was now a temperate man for life, and capable of filling any berth in a ship, and many a high station there is on shore which is held by a meaner man.</p><P>He understood the management of a ship upon scientific principles, and could give the reason for hauling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:every rope; and a long experience, added to careful observation at the time, gave him a knowledge of the expedients and resorts for times of hazard, for which I became much indebted to him, as he took the greatest pleasure in opening his stores of information to me, in return for what I was enabled to do for him.  Stories of tyranny and hardship which had driven men to piracy; of the incredible ignorance of masters and mates, and of horrid brutality to the sick, dead, and dying; as well as of the secret knavery and impositions practised upon seamen by connivance of the owners, landlords, and officers, --all these he had, and I could not but believe them; for he made the impression of an exact man, to whom exaggeration was falsehood; and his statements were always credited.  I remember, among other things, his speaking of a captain whom I had known by report, who never handed a thing to a sailor, but put it on deck and kicked it to him; and of another, who was highly connected in Boston, who absolutely murdered a lad from Boston who went out with him before the mast to Sumatra, by keeping him hard at work while ill of the coast fever, and obliging him to sleep in the close steerage.  (The same captain has since died of the same fever on the same coast.)</p><P>In fact, taking together all that I learned from him of seamanship, of the history of sailors' lives, of practical wisdom, and of human nature under new circumstances and strange forms of life, --a great history from which many are shut out, --I would not part with the hours I spent in the watch with that man for the gift of many hours to be passed in study and intercourse with even the best of society.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, <HI REND="italics">October 11th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Set sail this morning for the leeward; passed within sight of San Pedro, and, to our great joy, did not come to anchor, but kept directly on to San Diego, where we arrived and moored ship on--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday, October 15th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Found here the Italian ship La Rosa, from the windward, which reported the brig Pilgrim at San Francisco, all well.  Everything was as quiet here as usual.  We discharged our hides, horns, and tallow, and were ready to sail again on the following Sunday.  I went ashore to my old quarters, and found the gang at the hide-house going on in the even tenor of their way, and spent an hour or two, after dark, at the oven, taking a whiff with my old Kanaka friends, who really seemed glad to see me again, and saluted me as the <HI REND="italics">Aikane</HI>
139.sgm: of the Kanakas.  I was grieved to find that my poor dog Bravo was dead.  He had sickened and died suddenly the very day after I sailed in the Alert.</p><P>Sunday was again, as usual, our sailing day, and we got under way with a stiff breeze, which reminded us that it was the latter part of the autumn, and time to expect southeasters once more.  We beat up against a strong head wind, under reefed topsails, as far as San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Juan, where we came to anchor nearly three miles from the shore, with slip-ropes on our cables, in the old southeaster style of last winter.  On the passage up, we had and old sea-captain on board, who had married and settled in California, and had not been on salt water for more than fifteen years.  He was surprised at the changes and improvements that had been made in ships, and still more at the manner in which we carried sail; for he was really a little frightened, and said that while we had top-gallant-sails on, he should have been under reefed topsails.  The working of the ship, and her progress to windward, seemed to delight him, for he said she went to windward as though she were kedging.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, October 20th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Having got everything ready, we set the agent ashore, who went up to the Mission to hurry down the hides for the next morning.  This night we had the strictest orders to look out for southeasters; and the long, low clouds seemed rather threatening.  But the night passed over without any trouble, and early the next morning we hove out the long-boat and pinnace, lowered away the quarter-boats, and went ashore to bring off our hides.  Here we were again, in this romantic spot, --a perpendicular hill, twice the height of the ship's mast-head, with a single circuitous path to the top, and long sand-beach at its base, with the swell of the whole Pacific breaking high upon it, and our hides ranged in piles on the overhanging summit.  The captain sent me, who was the only one of the crew that had ever been there before, to the top to count the hides and pitch them down.  There I stood again, as six months before, throwing off the hides, and watching them, pitching and scaling, to the bottom, while the men, dwarfed by the distance, were walking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:to and fro on the beach, carrying the hides, as they picked them up, to the distant boats, upon the tops of their heads.  Two or three boat-loads were sent off, until at last all were thrown down, and the boats nearly loaded again, when were delayed by a dozen or twenty hides which had lodged in the recesses of the bank, and which we could not reach by any missiles, as the general line of the side was exactly perpendicular, and these places were caved in, and could not be seen or reached from the top.  As hides are worth in Boston twelve and a half cents a pound, and the captain's commission was one per cent, he determined not to give them up, and sent on board for a pair of top-gallant studding-sail halyards, and requested some one of the crew to go to the top and come down by the halyards.  The older sailors said the boys, who were light and active, ought to go; while the boys thought that strength and experience were necessary.  Seeing the dilemma, and feeling myself to be near the medium of these requisites, I offered my services, and went up, with one man to tend the rope, and prepared for the descent.</p><P>We found a stake fastened strongly into the ground, and apparently capable of holding my weight, to which we made one end of the halyard well fast, and, taking the coil, threw it over the brink.  The end, we saw, just reached to a landing-place, from which the descent to the beach was easy.  Having nothing on but shirt, trousers, and hat, the common sea rig of warm weather, I had no stripping to do, and began my descent by taking hold of the rope with both hands, and slipping down, sometimes with hands and feet round the rope, and sometimes breasting off with one hand and foot against the precipice, and holding on to the rope with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:the other.  In this way I descended until I came to a place which shelved in, and in which the hides were lodged.  Keeping hold of the rope with one hand, I scrambled in, and by aid of my feet and the other hand succeeded in dislodging all the hides, and continued on my way.  Just below this place, the precipice projected again, and, going over the projection, I could see nothing below me but the sea and the rocks upon which it broke, and a few gulls flying in mid-air.  I got down in safety, pretty well covered with dirt; and for my pains was told, "What a d--d fool you were to risk your life for half a dozen hides!"</p><P>While we were carrying the hides to the boat, I perceived, what I had been too busy to observe before, that heavy black clouds were rolling up from seaward, a strong swell heaving in, and every sign of a southeaster.  The captain hurried everything.  The hides were pitched into the boats, and, with some difficulty, and by wading nearly up to our armpits, we got the boats through the surf, and began pulling aboard.  Our gig's crew towed the pinnace astern of the gig, and the launch was towed by six men in the jolly-boat.  The ship was lying three miles off, pitching at her anchor, and the farther we pulled, the heavier grew the swell.  Our boat stood nearly up and down several times; the pinnace parted her tow-line, and we expected every moment to see the launch swamped.  At length we got alongside, our boats half full of water; and now came the greatest trouble of all, --unloading the boats in a heavy sea, which pitched them about so that it was almost impossible to stand in them, raising them sometimes even with the rail, and again dropping them below the bends.  With great difficulty we got all the hides aboard and stowed under hatches, the yard and stay tackles hooked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:on, and the launch and pinnace hoisted, chocked, and griped.  The quarter-boats were then hoisted up, and we began heaving in on the chain.  Getting the anchor was no easy work in such a sea, but as we were not coming back to this port, the captain determined not to slip.  The ship's head pitched into the sea, and the water rushed through the hawse-holes, and the chain surged so as almost to unship the barrel of the windlass.  "Hove short, sir!" said the mate.  "Aye, aye! Weather-bit your chain and loose the topsails!  Make sail on her, men, --with a will!"  A few moments served to loose the topsails, which were furled with reefs, to sheet them home, and hoist them up.  "Bear a hand!" was the order of the day; and every one saw the necessity of it, for the gale was already upon us.  The ship broke out her own anchor, which we catted and fished, after a fashion, and were soon close-hauled, under reefed sails, standing off from the lee shore and rocks against a heavy head sea.  The fore course was given to her, which helped her a little; but as she hardly held her own against the sea, which was setting her to leeward--"Board the main tack!" shouted the captain, when the tack was carried forward and taken to the windlass, and all hands called to the handspikes.  The great sail bellied out horizontally, as though it would lift up the main stay; the blocks rattled and flew about; but the force of machinery was too much for her.  "Heave ho!  Heave and pawl!  Yo, heave, hearty, ho!" and, in time with the song, by the force of twenty strong arms, the wind lass came slowly round, pawl after pawl, and the weather clew of the sail was brought down to the water ways.  The starboard watch hauled aft the sheet, and the ship tore through the water like a mad horse, quivering and shaking at every joint, and dashing from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:her head the foam, which flew off at each blow, yards and yards to leeward.  A half-hour of such sailing served our turn, when the clews of the sail were hauled up, the sail furled, and the ship, eased of her press, went more quietly on her way.  Soon after, the foresail was reefed, and we mizzen-top men were sent up to take another reef in the mizzen topsail.  This was the first time I had taken a weather earing, and I felt not a little proud to sit astride of the weather yard-arm, pass the earing, and sing out, "Haul out to leeward!"  From this time until we got to Boston the mate never suffered any one but our own gang to go upon the mizzen topsail yard, either for reefing or furling, and the young English lad and I generally took the earings between us.</p><P>Having cleared the point and got well out to sea, we squared away the yards, made more sail, and stood on, nearly before the wind, for San Pedro.  It blew strong, with some rain, nearly all night, but fell calm toward morning, and the gale having blown itself out, we came-to, --</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday, October 22d</HI>
139.sgm:, at San Pedro, in the old southeaster berth, a league from shore, with a slip-rope on the cable, reefs in the topsails, and rope-yarns for gaskets.  Here we lay ten days, with the usual boating, hide-carrying, rolling of cargo up the steep hill, walking barefooted over stones, and getting drenched in salt water.</p><P>The third day after our arrival, the Rosa came in from San Juan, where she went the day after the southeaster.  Her crew said it was as smooth as a mill-pond after the gale, and she took off nearly a thousand hides, which had been brought down for us, and which we lost in consequence of the southeaster.  This mortified us:  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:not only that an Italian ship should have got to wind ward of us in the trade, but because every thousand hides went towards completing the forty thousand which we were to collect before we could say good by to California.</p><P>While lying here, we shipped one new hand, an Englishman, of about six-and-twenty years, who was an acquisition, as he proved to be a good sailor, could sing tolerably, and, what was of more importance to me, had a good education and a somewhat remarkable history.  He called himself George P. Marsh; professed to have been at sea from a small boy, and to have served his time in the smuggling trade between Germany and the coasts of France and England.  Thus he accounted for his knowledge of the French language, which he spoke and read as well as he did English; but his cutter education would not account for his English, which was far too good to have been learned in a smuggler; for he wrote an uncommonly handsome hand, spoke with great correctness, and frequently, when in private talk with me, quoted from books, and showed a knowledge of the customs of society, and particularly of the formalities of the various English courts of law and of Parliament, which surprised me.  Still he would give no other account of himself than that he was educated in a smuggler.  A man whom we afterwards fell in with, who had been a shipmate of George's a few years before, said that he heard, at the boarding-house from which they shipped, that George had been at a college (probably a naval one, as he knew no Latin or Greek), where he learned French and mathematics.  He was not the man by nature that Harris was.  Harris had made everything of his mind and character in spite of obstacles; while this man had evidently been born in a different <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:rank, and educated early in life accordingly, but had been a vagabond, and done nothing for himself since.  Neither had George the character, strength of mind, or memory of Harris; yet there was about him the remains of a pretty good education, which enabled him to talk quite up to his brains, and a high spirit and amenability to the point of honor which years of a dog's life had not broken.  After he had been a little while on board, we learned from him his adventures of the last two years, which we afterwards heard confirmed in such a manner as put the truth of them beyond a doubt.</p><P>He sailed from New York in the year 1833, if I mistake not, before the mast, in the brig Lascar, for Canton.  She was sold in the East Indies, and he shipped at Manilla, in a small schooner, bound on a trading voyage among the Ladrone and Pelew Islands.  On one of the latter islands their schooner was wrecked on a reef, and they were attacked by the natives, and, after a desperate resistance, in which all their number, except the captain, George, and a boy, were killed or drowned, they surrendered, and were carried bound, in a canoe, to a neighboring island.  In about a month after this, an opportunity occurred by which one of their number might get away.  I have forgotten the circumstances, but only one could go, and they gave way to the captain, upon his promising to send them aid if he escaped.  He was successful in his attempt; got on board an American vessel, went back to Manilla, and thence to America, without making any effort for their rescue, or, indeed, as George afterwards discovered, without even mentioning their case to any one in Manilla.  The boy that was with George died, and he being alone, and there being no chance for his escape, the natives soon treated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:him with kindness, and even with attention.  They painted him, tattooed his body (for he would never consent to be marked in the face or hands), gave him two or three wives, and, in fact, made a pet of him.  In this way he lived for thirteen months, in a delicious climate, with plenty to eat, half naked, and nothing to do.  He soon, however, became tired, and went round the island, on different pretences, to look out for a sail.  One day he was out fishing in a small canoe with another man, when he saw a large sail to windward, about a league and a half off, passing abreast of the island and standing westward.  With some difficulty, he persuaded the islander to go off with him to the ship, promising to return with a good supply of rum and tobacco.  These articles, which the islanders had got a taste of from American traders, were too strong a temptation for the fellow, and he consented.  They paddled off in the track in which the ship was bound, and lay-to until she came down to them.  George stepped on board the ship, nearly naked, painted from head to foot, and in no way distinguishable from his companion until he began to speak.  Upon this the people on board were not a little astonished, and, having learned his story, the captain had him washed and clothed, and, sending away the poor astonished native with a knife or two and some tobacco and calico, took George with him on the voyage.  This was the ship Cabot, of New York, Captain Low.  She was bound to Manilla, from across the Pacific; and George did seaman's duty in her until her arrival in Manilla, when he left her, and shipped in a brig bound to the Sandwich Islands.  From Oahu, he came, in the British brig Clementine, to Monterey, as second officer, where, having some difficulty with the captain, he left her, and, coming down the coast, joined us at San Pedro.  Nearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:six months after this, among some papers we received by an arrival from Boston, we found a letter from Captain Low, of the Cabot, published immediately upon his arrival at New York, giving all the particulars just as we had them from George.  The letter was published for the information of the friends of George, and Captain Low added that he left him at Manilla to go to Oahu, and he had heard nothing of him since.</p><P>George had an interesting journal of his adventures in the Pelew Islands, which he had written out at length, in a handsome hand, and in correct English.<ANCHOR ID="n24-1">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-1"><P>In the spring of 1841, a sea-faring man called at my rooms, in Boston and said he wished to see me, as he knew something about a man I had spoken of in my book.  He then told me that he was second mate of the bark Mary Frazer, which sailed from Batavia in company with the Cabot, bound to Manilla, that when off the Pelew Islands they fell in with a canoe with two natives on board, who told them that there was an American ship ahead, out of sight, and that they had put a white man on board of her.  The bark gave the canoe a tow for a short distance.  When the Mary Frazer arrived at Manilla, they found the Cabot there; and my informant said that George came on board several times, and told the same story that I had given of him in this book.  He said the name of George's schooner was the Dash, and that she was wrecked, and attacked by the natives, as George had told me.</p><P>This man, whose name was Beauchamp, was second mate of the Mary Frazer when she took the missionaries to Oahu.  He became religious during the passage, and joined the mission church at Oahu upon his arrival.  When I saw him, he was master of a bark.</p></NOTE>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>SUNDAY, <HI REND="italics">November 1st</HI>
139.sgm:.  Sailed this day (Sunday again) for Santa Barbara, where we arrived on the 5th.  Coming round Santa Buenaventura, and nearing the anchorage, we saw two vessels in port, a large full-rigged, and a small, hermaphrodite brig.  The former, the crew said, must be the Pilgrim; but I had been too long in the Pilgrim to be mistaken in her, and I was right in differing from them, for, upon nearer approach, her long, low, shear, sharp bows, and raking masts, told quite another story.  "Man-of-war brig," said some of them; "Baltimore clipper," said others; the Ayacucho, thought I; and soon the broad folds of the beautiful banner of St. George--white field with blood-red border and cross--were displayed from her peak.  A few minutes put it beyond a doubt, and we were lying by the side of the Ayacucho, which had sailed from San Diego about nine months before, while we were lying there in the Pilgrim.  She had since been to Valparaiso, Callao, and the Sandwich Islands, and had just come upon the coast.  Her boat came on board, bringing Captain Wilson; and in half an hour the news was all over the ship that there was a war between the United States and France.  Exaggerated accounts reached the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:forecastle.  Battles had been fought, a large French fleet was in the Pacific, &amp;c., &amp;c.; and one of the boat's crew of the Ayacucho said that, when they left Callao, a large French frigate and the American frigate Brandywine, which were lying there, were going outside to have a battle, and that the English frigate Blonde was to be umpire, and see fair play.  Here was important news for us.  Alone, on an unprotected coast, without an American man-of-war within some thousands of miles, and the prospect of a voyage home through the whole length of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans!  A French prison seemed a much more probable place of destination than the good port of Boston.  However, we were too salt to believe every yarn that comes into the forecastle, and waited to hear the truth of the matter from higher authority.  By means of the supercargo's clerk I got the amount of the matter, which was, that the governments had had a difficulty about the payment of a debt; that war had been threatened and prepared for, but not actually declared, although it was pretty generally anticipated.  This was not quite so bad, yet was no small cause of anxiety. But we cared very little about the matter ourselves.  "Happy go lucky" with Jack!  We did not believe that a French prison would be much worse than "hide droghing" on the coast of California; and no one who has not been a long, dull voyage, shut up in one ship, can conceive of the effect of monotony upon one's thoughts and wishes.  The prospect of a change is a green spot in the desert, and the probability of great events and exciting scenes creates a feeling of delight, and sets life in motion, so as to give a pleasure which any one not in the same state would be unable to explain.  In fact, a more jovial night we had not passed in the forecastle for months.  All seemed in unaccountably high spirits.  An <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:undefined anticipation of radical changes, of new scenes and great doings, seemed to have possessed every one, and the common drudgery of the vessel appeared contemptible.  Here was a new vein opened, --a grand theme of conversation and a topic for all sorts of discussions.  National feeling was wrought up.  Jokes were cracked upon the only Frenchman in the ship, and comparisons made between "old horse" and "soup meagre," &amp;c., &amp;c.</p><P>We remained in uncertainty as to this war for more than two months, when an arrival from the Sandwich Islands brought us the news of an amicable arrangement of the difficulties.</p><P>The other vessel which we found in port was the hermaphrodite brig Avon, from the Sandwich Islands.  She was fitted up in handsome style; fired a gun, and ran her ensign up and down at sunrise and sunset; had a band of four or five pieces of music on board, and appeared rather like a pleasure yacht than a trader; yet, in connection with the Loriotte, Clementine, Bolivar, Convoy, and other small vessels, belonging to sundry Americans at Oahu, she carried on a considerable trade, --legal and illegal, in otter-skins, silks, teas, &amp;c., as well as hides and tallow.</p><P>The second day after our arrival, a full-rigged brig came round the point from the northward, sailed leisurely through the bay, and stood off again for the southeast in the direction of the large island of Catalina.  The next day the Avon got under way, and stood in the same direction, bound for San Pedro.  This might do for marines and Californians, but we knew the ropes too well.  The brig was never again seen on the coast, and the Avon went into San Pedro in about a week with a replenished cargo of Canton and American goods.</p><P>This was one of the means of escaping the heavy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:duties the Mexicans lay upon all imports.  A vessel comes on the coast, enters a moderate cargo at Monterey, which is the only custom-house, and commences trading.  In a month or more, having sold a large part of her cargo, she stretches over to Catalina, or other of the large, uninhabited islands which lie off the coast, in a trip from port to port, and supplies herself with choice goods from a vessel from Oahu, which has been lying off and on the islands, waiting for her.  Two days after the sailing of the Avon, the Loriotte came in from the leeward, and without doubt had also a snatch at the brig's cargo.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, November 10th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Going ashore, as usual, in the gig, just before sundown, to bring off the captain, we found, upon taking in the captain and pulling off again, that our ship, which lay the farthest out, had run up her ensign.  This meant "Sail ho!" of course, but as we were within the point we could see nothing.  "Give way, boys!  Give way!  Lay out on your oars, and long stroke!" said the captain; and stretching to the whole length of our arms, bending back again so that our backs touched the thwarts, we sent her through the water like a rocket.  A few minutes of such pulling opened the islands, one after another, in range of the point, and gave us a view of the Canal, where was a ship, under top-gallant-sails, standing in, with a light breeze, for the anchorage.  Putting the boat's head in the direction of the ship, the captain told us to lay out again; and we needed no spurring, for the prospect of boarding a new ship, perhaps from home, hearing the news, and having something to tell of when we got back, was excitement enough for us, and we gave way with a will.  Captain Nye, of the Loriotte, who had been an old whaleman, was in the stern-sheets, and fell mightily into the spirit of it.  "Bend your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:backs, and break your oars!" said he.  "Lay me on, Captain Bunker!"  "There she flukes!" and other exclamations current among whalemen.  In the mean time it fell flat calm, and, being within a couple of miles of the ship, we expected to board her in a few minutes, when a breeze sprung up, dead ahead for the ship, and she braced up and stood off toward the islands, sharp on the larboard tack, making good way through the water.  This, of course, brought us up, and we had only to "ease larboard oars, pull round starboard!" and go aboard the Alert, with something very like a flea in the ear.  There was a light land-breeze all night, and the ship did not come to anchor until the next morning.</p><P>As soon as her anchor was down we went aboard, and found her to be the whale-ship Wilmington and Liverpool Packet, of New Bedford, last from the "off-shore ground," with nineteen hundred barrels of oil.  A "spouter" we knew her to be, as soon as we saw her, by her cranes and boats, and by her stump top-gallant-masts, and a certain slovenly look to the sails, rigging, spars, and hull; and when we got on board, we found everything to correspond, --spouter fashion.  She had a false deck, which was rough and oily, and cut up in every direction by the chines of oil casks; her rigging was slack, and turning white, paint worn off the spars and blocks, clumsy seizings, straps without covers, and "homeward-bound splices" in every direction.  Her crew, too, were not in much better order.  Her captain was a slab-sided Quaker, in a suit of brown, with a broad-brimmed hat, bending his long legs as he moved about decks, with his head down, like a sheep, and the men looked more like fishermen and farmers than they did like sailors.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>Though it was by no means cold weather (we having on only our red shirts and duck trousers), they all had on wollen trousers, --not blue and ship-shape, but of all colors, --brown, drab, gray, aye, and <HI REND="italics">green</HI>
139.sgm:, --with suspenders over their shoulders, and pockets to put their hands in.  This, added to Guernsey frocks, striped comforters about the neck, thick cowhide boots, woollen caps, and a strong, oily smell, and a decidedly green look, will complete the description.  Eight or ten were on the fore topsail yard, and as many more in the main, furling the topsails, while eight or ten were hanging about the forecastle, doing nothing.  This was a strange sight for a vessel coming to anchor; so we went up to them, to see what was the matter.  One of them, a stout, hearty-looking fellow, held out his leg and said he had the scurvy; another had cut his hand; and others had got nearly well, but said that there were plenty aloft to furl the sails, so they were <HI REND="italics">sogering</HI>
139.sgm: on the forecastle.  There was only one "splicer" on board, a fine-looking old tar, who was in the bunt of the fore topsail.  He was probably the only thorough marline-spike seaman in the ship, before the mast.  The mates, of course, and the boat-steerers, and also two or three of the crew, had been to sea before, but only on whaling voyages; and the greater part of the crew were raw hands, just from the bush, and had not yet got the hay-seed out of their hair.  The mizzen topsail hung in the buntlines until everything was furled forward.  Thus a crew of thirty men were half an hour in doing what would have been done in the Alert, with eighteen hands to go aloft, in fifteen or twenty minutes.<ANCHOR ID="n25-1">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-1">I have been told that this description of a whaleman has given offence to the whale-trading people of Nantucket, New Bedford, and the Vineyard.  It is not exaggerated; and the appearance of such a ship and crew might well impress a young man trained in the ways of a ship of the style of the Alert.  Long observation has satisfied me that there are no better seamen, so far as handling a ship is concerned, and none so venturous and skilful navigators, as the masters and officers of our whalemen.  But never, either on this voyage, or in a subsequent visit to the Pacific and its islands, was it my fortune to fall in with a whaleship whose appearance, and the appearance of whose crew, gave signs of strictness of discipline and seaman-like neatness.  Probably these things are impossibilities, from the nature of the business, and I may have made too much of them.</NOTE>
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139.sgm:<P>We found they had been at sea six or eight months, and had no news to tell us, so we left them, and promised to get liberty to come on board in the evening for some curiosities.  Accordingly, as soon as we were knocked off in the evening and were through supper, we obtained leave, took a boat, and went aboard and spent an hour or two.  They gave us pieces of whalebone, and the teeth and other parts of curious sea animals, and we exchanged books with them, --a practice very common among ships in foreign ports, by which you get rid of the books you have read and re-read, and a supply of new ones in their stead, and Jack is not very nice as to their comparative value.<ANCHOR ID="n25-2">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-2">This visiting between the crews of ships at sea is called, among whalemen, "gamming."</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Thursday, November 12th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This day was quite cool in the early part, and there were black clouds about; but as it was often so in the morning, nothing was apprehended, and all the captains went ashore together to spend the day.  Towards noon the clouds hung heavily over the mountains, coming half-way down the hills that encircle the town of Santa Barbara, and a heavy swell rolled in from the southeast.  The mate immediately ordered the gig's crew away, and, at the same time, we saw boats pulling ashore from the other vessels.  Here was a grand chance for a rowing-match, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and every one did his best.  We passed the boats of the Ayacucho and Loriotte, but could not hold our own with the long six-oared boat of the whale-ship.  They reached the breakers before us; but here we had the advantage of them, for, not being used to the surf, they were obliged to wait to see us beach our boat, just as, in the same place, nearly a year before, we, in the Pilgrim, were glad to be taught by a boat's crew of Kanakas.</p><P>We had hardly got the boats beached, and their heads pointed out to sea, before our old friend, Bill Jackson, the handsome English sailor, who steered the Loriotte's boat, called out that his brig was adrift; and, sure enough, she was dragging her anchors, and drifting down into the bight of the bay.  Without waiting for the captain (for there was no one on board the brig but the mate and steward), he sprung into the boat, called the Kanakas together, and tried to put off.  But the Kanakas, though capital water-dogs, were frightened by their vessel's being adrift, and by the emergency of the case, and seemed to lose their faculties.  Twice their boat filled, and came broadside upon the beach.  Jackson swore at them for a parcel of savages, and promised to flog every one of them.  This made the matter no better; when we came forward, told the Kanakas to take their seats in the boat, and, going two on each side, walked out with her till it was up to our shoulders, and gave them a shove, when, giving way with their oars, they got her safely into the long, regular swell.  In the mean time, boats had put off to the Loriotte from our ship and the whaler, and, coming all on board the brig together, they let go the other anchor, paid out chain, braced the yards to the wind, and brought the vessel up.</p><P>In a few minutes, the captains came hurrying down, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:on the run; and there was no time to be lost, for the gale promised to be a severe one, and the surf was breaking upon the beach, three deep, higher and higher every instant.  The Ayacucho's boat, pulled by four Kanakas, put off first, and as they had no rudder or steering-oar, would probably never have got off, had we not waded out with them as far as the surf would permit.  The next that made the attempt was the whale-boat, for we, being the most experienced "beach-combers," needed no help, and stayed till the last.  Whalemen  make the best boats' crews in the world for a long pull, but this landing was new to them, and, notwithstanding the examples they had had, they slewed round and were hove up--boat, oars, and men--all together, high and dry upon the sand.  The second time they filled, and had to turn their boat over, and set her off again.  We could be of no help to them, for they were so many as to be in one another's way, without the addition of our numbers.  The third time they got off, though not without shipping a sea which drenched them all, and half filled their boat, keeping them baling until they reached their ship.  We now got ready to go off, putting the boat's head out; English Ben and I, who were the largest, standing on each side of the bows to keep her head out to the sea, two more shipping and manning the two after oars, and the captain taking the steering oar.  Two or three Mexicans, who stood upon the beach looking at us, wrapped their cloaks about them, shook their heads, and muttered "Caramba!"  They had no taste for such doings; in fact, the hydrophobia is a national malady, and shows itself in their persons as well as their actions.</p><P>Watching for a "smooth chance," we determined to show the other boats the way it should be done, and, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:soon as ours floated, ran out with her, keeping her head out, with all our strength, and the help of the captain's oar, and the two after oarsmen giving way regularly and strongly, until our feet were off the ground, we tumbled into the bows, keeping perfectly still, from fear of hindering the others.  For some time it was doubtful how it would go.  The boat stood nearly up and down in the water, and the sea, rolling from under her, let her fall upon the water with a force which seemed almost to stave her bottom in.  By quietly sliding two oars forward, along the thwarts, without impeding the rowers, we shipped two bow oars, and thus, by the help of four oars and the captain's strong arm, we got safely off, though we shipped several seas, which left us half full of water.  We pulled alongside of the Loriotte, put her skipper on board, and found her making preparations for slipping, and then pulled aboard our own ship.  Here Mr. Brown, always "on hand," had got everything ready, so that we had only to hook on the gig and hoist it up, when the order was given to loose the sails.  While we were on the yards, we saw the Loriotte under way, and, before our yards were mast-headed, the Ayacucho had spread her wings, and, with yards braced sharp up, was standing athwart our hawse.  There is no prettier sight in the world than a full-rigged, clipper-built brig, sailing sharp on the wind.  In a minute more our slip-rope was gone, the head-yards filled away, and we were off.  Next came the whaler; and in half an hour from the time when four vessels were lying quietly at anchor, without a rag out, or a sign of motion, the bay was deserted, and four white clouds were moving over the water to seaward.  Being sure of clearing the point, we stood off with our yards a little braced in, while the Ayacucho went off with a taut bowline, which brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:her to windward of us.  During all this day, and the greater part of the night, we had the usual southeaster entertainment, a gale of wind, with occasional rain, and finally topped off with a drenching rain of three or four hours.  At daybreak the clouds thinned off and rolled away, and the sun came up clear.  The wind, instead of coming out from the northward, as is usual, blew steadily and freshly from the anchoring-ground.  This was bad for us, for, being "flying light," with little more than ballast trim, we were in no condition for showing off on a taut bowline, and had depended upon a fair wind, with which, by the help of our light sails and studding-sails, we meant to have been the first at the anchoring-ground; but the Ayacucho was a good league to windward of us, and was standing in in fine style.  The whaler, however, was as far to leeward of us, and the Loriotte was nearly out of sight, among the islands, up the Canal.  By hauling every brace and bowline, and clapping watch-tackles upon all the sheets and halyards, we managed to hold our own, and drop the leeward vessels a little in every tack.  When we reached the anchoring-ground, the Ayacucho had got her anchor, furled her sails, squared her yards, and was lying as quietly as if nothing had happened.</p><P>We had our usual good luck in getting our anchor without letting go another, and were all snug, with our boats at the boom-ends, in half an hour.  In about two hours more the whaler came in, and made a clumsy piece of work in getting her anchor, being obliged to let go her best bower, and, finally, to get out a kedge and a hawser.  They were heave-ho-ing, stopping and unstopping, pawling, catting, and fishing for three hours; and the sails hung from the yards all the afternoon, and were not furled until sundown.  The Loriotte came in just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:after dark, and let go her anchor, making no attempt to pick up the other until the next day.</p><P>This affair led to a dispute as to the sailing of our ship and the Ayacucho.  Bets were made between the captains, and the crews took it up in their own way; but as she was bound to leeward and we to windward, and merchant captains cannot deviate, a trial never took place; and perhaps it was well for us that it did not, for the Ayacucho had been eight years in the Pacific, in every part of it, --Valparaiso, Sandwich Islands, Canton, California, and all, --and was called the fastest merchantman that traded in the Pacific, unless it was the brig John Gilpin, and perhaps the ship Ann McKim, of Baltimore.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, November 14th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This day we got under way, with the agent and several Mexicans of note, as passengers, bound up to Monterey.  We went ashore in the gig to bring them off with their baggage, and found them waiting on the beach, and a little afraid about going off, as the surf was running very high.  This was nuts to us, for we liked to have a Mexican wet with salt water; and then the agent was very much disliked by the crew, one and all; and we hoped, as there was no officer in the boat, to have a chance to duck them, for we knew that they were such "marines" that they would not know whether it was our fault or not.  Accordingly, we kept the boat so far from shore as to oblige them to wet their feet in getting into her; and then waited for a good high comber, and, letting the head slue a little round, sent the whole force of the sea into the stern-sheets, drenching them from head to feet.  The Mexicans sprang out of the boat, swore, and shook themselves, and protested against trying it again; and it was with the greatest difficulty that the agent could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:prevail upon them to make another attempt.  The next time we took care, and went off easily enough, and pulled aboard.  The crew came to the side to hoist in their baggage, and heartily enjoyed the half-drowned looks of the company.</p><P>Everything being now ready, and the passengers aboard, we ran up the ensign and broad pennant (for there was no man-of-war, and we were the largest vessel on the coast), and the other vessels ran up their ensigns.  Having hove short, cast off the gaskets, and made the bunt of each sail fast by the jigger, with a man on each yard, at the word the whole canvas of the ship was loosed, and with the greatest rapidity possible everything was sheeted home and hoisted up, the anchor tripped and cat-headed, and the ship under headway.  We were determined to show the "spouter" how things could be done in a smart ship, with a good crew, though not more than half his numbers.  The royal yards were all crossed at once, and royals and sky-sails set, and, as we had the wind free, the booms were run out, and all were aloft, active as cats, laying out on the yards and booms, reeving the studding-sail gear; and sail after sail the captain piled upon her, until she was covered with canvas, her sails looking like a great white cloud resting upon a black speck.  Before we doubled the point, we were going at a dashing rate, and leaving the shipping far astern.  We had a fine breeze to take us through the Canal, as they call this bay of forty miles long by ten wide.  The breeze died away at night, and we were becalmed all day on Sunday, about halfway between Santa Barbara and Point Conception.  Sunday night we had a light, fair wind, which set us up again; and having a fine sea-breeze on the first part of Monday we had the prospect of passing, without any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:trouble, Point Conception, --the Cape Horn of California, where, the sailors say, it begins to blow the first of January, and blows until the last of December.  Toward the latter part of the afternoon, however, the regular northwest wind, as usual, set in, which brought in our studding-sails, and gave us the chance of beating round the Point, which we were now just abreast of, and which stretched off into the Pacific, high, rocky, and barren, forming the central point of the coast for hundreds of miles north and south.  A cap-full of wind will be a bag-full here, and before night our royals were furled, and the ship was laboring hard under her top-gallant-sails.  At eight bells our watch went below, leaving her with as much sail as she could stagger under, the water flying over the forecastle at every plunge.  It was evidently blowing harder, but then there was not a cloud in the sky, and the sun had gone down bright.</p><P>We had been below but a short time, before we had the usual premonitions of a coming gale, --seas washing over the whole forward part of the vessel, and her bows beating against them with a force and sound like the driving of piles.  The watch, too, seemed very busy trampling about decks, and singing out at the ropes.  A sailor can tell, by the sound, what sail is coming in; and, in a short time, we heard the top-gallant-sails come in, one after another, and then the flying jib.  This seemed to ease her a good deal, and we were fast going off to the land of Nod, when--bang, bang, bang--on the scuttle, and "All hands, reef topsails, ahoy!" started us out of our berths; and, it not being very cold weather, we had nothing extra to put on, and were soon on deck.  I shall never forget the fineness of the sight.  It was a clear, and rather a chilly night; the stars were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:twinkling with an intense brightness, and as far as the eye could reach there was not a cloud to be seen.  The horizon met the sea in a defined line.  A painter could not have painted so clear a sky.  There was not a speck upon it.  Yet it was blowing great guns from the northwest.  When you can see a cloud to windward, you feel that there is a place for the wind to come from; but here it seemed to come from nowhere.  No person could have told from the heavens, by their eyesight alone, that it was not a still summer's night.  One reef after another we took in the topsails, and before we could get them hoisted up we heard a sound like a short, quick rattling of thunder, and the jib was blown to atoms out of the bolt-rope.  We got the topsails set, and the fragments of the jib stowed away, and the fore topmast staysail set in its place, when the great mainsail gaped open, and the sail ripped from head to foot.  "Lay up on that main yard and furl the sail, before it blows to tatters!" shouted the captain; and in a moment we were up, gathering the remains of it upon the yard.  We got it wrapped round the yard, and passed gaskets over it as snugly as possible, and were just on deck again, when, with another loud rent, which was heard throughout the ship, the fore topsail, which had been double-reefed, split in two athwartships, just below the reef-band, from earing to earing.  Here again it was--down yard, haul out reef-tackles, and lay out upon the yard for reefing.  By hauling the reef-tackles chock-a-block we took the strain from the other earings, and passing the close-reef earing, and knotting the points carefully, we succeeded in setting the sail, close reefed.</p><P>We had but just got the rigging coiled up, and were waiting to hear "Go below the watch!" when the main <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:royal worked loose from the gaskets, and blew directly out to leeward, flapping, and shaking the mast like a wand.  Here was a job for somebody.  The royal must come in or be cut adrift, or the mast would be snapped short off.  All the light hands in the starboard watch were sent up one after another, but they could do nothing with it.  At length, John, the tall Frenchman, the head of the starboard watch (and a better sailor never stepped upon a deck), sprang aloft, and, by the help of his long arms and legs, succeeded, after a hard struggle, --the sail blowing over the yard-arm to leeward, and the skysail adrift directly over his head, --in smothering it and frapping it with long pieces of sinnet.  He came very near being blown or shaken from the yard several times, but he was a true sailor, every finger a fish-hook.  Having made the sail snug, he prepared to send the yard down, which was a long and difficult job; for, frequently, he was obliged to stop, and hold on with all his might for several minutes, the ship pitching so as to make it impossible to do anything else at that height.  The yard at length came down safe, and, after it, the fore and mizzen royal yards were sent down.  All hands were then sent aloft, and for an hour or two we were hard at work, making the booms well fast, unreeving the studding-sail and royal and skysail gear, getting rolling-ropes on the yard, setting up the weather breast-backstays, and making other preparations for a storm.  It was a fine night for a gale; just cool and bracing enough for quick work, without being cold, and as bright as day.  It was sport to have a gale in such weather as this.  Yet it blew like a hurricane.  The wind seemed to come with a spite, an edge to it, which threatened to scrape us off the yards.  The force of the wind was greater than I had ever felt it before; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:darkness, cold, and wet are the worst parts of a storm, to a sailor.</p><P>Having got on deck again, we looked round to see what time of night it was, and whose watch.  In a few minutes the man at the wheel struck four bells, and we found that the other watch was out, and our own half out.  Accordingly, the starboard watch went below, and left the ship to us for a couple of hours, yet with orders to stand by for a call.</p><P>Hardly had they got below, before away went the fore topmast staysail, blown to ribands.  This was a small sail, which we could manage in the watch, so that we were not obliged to call up the other watch.  We laid out upon the bowsprit, where we were under water half the time, and took in the fragments of the sail, and, as she must have some head sail on her, prepared to bend another staysail.  We got the new one out into the nettings; seized on the tack, sheets, and halyards, and the hanks; manned the halyards, cut adrift the frapping-lines, and hoisted away; but before it was halfway up the stay it was blown all to pieces.  When we belayed the halyards, there was nothing left but the bolt-rope.  Now large eyes began to show themselves in the foresail, and, knowing that it must soon go, the mate ordered us upon the yard to furl it.  Being unwilling to call up the watch who had been on deck all night, he roused out the carpenter, sailmaker, cook, and steward, and with their help we manned the fore yard, and, after nearly half an hour's struggle, mastered the sail, and got it well furled round the yard.  The force of the wind had never been greater than at this moment.  In going up the rigging, it seemed absolutely to pin us down to the shrouds; and, on the yard, there was no such thing as turning a face to windward.  Yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:her was no driving sleet, and darkness, and wet, and cold, as off Cape Horn; and instead of stiff oil-cloth suits, southwester caps, and thick boots, we had on hats, round jackets, duck trousers, light shoes, and everything light and easy.  These things make a great difference to a sailor.  When we got on deck, the man at the wheel struck eight bells (four o'clock in the morning), and "All Starbowlines, ahoy!" brought the other watch up, but there was no going below for us.  The gale was now at its height, "blowing like scissors and thumb-screws"; the captain was on deck; the ship, which was light, rolling and pitching as though she would shake the long sticks out of her, and the sails were gaping open and splitting in every direction.  The mizzen topsail, which was a comparatively new sail, and close reefed, split from head to foot, in the bunt; the fore topsail went, in one rent, from clew to earing, and was blowing to tatters; one of the chain bobstays parted; the spritsail yard sprung in the slings; the martingale had slued away off to leeward; and, owing to the long dry weather, the lee rigging hung in large bights at every lurch.  One of the main top-gallant shrouds had parted; and, to crown all, the galley had got adrift, and gone over to leeward, and the anchor on the lee bow had worked loose, and was thumping the side.  Here was work enough for all hands for half a day.  Our gang laid out on the mizzen topsail yard, and after more than half an hour's hard work, furled the sail, though it bellied out over our heads, and again, by a slat of the wind, blew in under the yard with a fearful jerk, and almost threw us off from the foot-ropes.</p><P>Double gaskets were passed round the yards, rolling tackles and other gear bowsed taut, and everything <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:made as secure as it could be.  Coming down, we found the rest of the crew just coming down the fore rigging, having furled the tattered topsail, or, rather, swathed it round the yard, which looked like a broken limb, bandaged.  There was no sail now on the ship, but the spanker and the close-reefed main topsail, which still held good.  But this was too much after sail, and order was given to furl the spanker.  The brails were hauled up, and all the light hands in the starboard watch sent out on the gaff to pass the gaskets; but they could do nothing with it.  The second mate swore at them for a parcel of "sogers," and sent up a couple of the best men; but they could do no better, and the gaff was lowered down.  All hands were now employed in setting up the lee rigging, fishing the spritsail yard, lashing the galley, and getting tackles upon the martingale, to bowse it to windward.  Being in the larboard watch, my duty was forward, to assist in setting up the martingale.  Three of us were out on the martingale guys and backropes for more than half an hour, carrying out, hooking and unhooking the tackles, several times buried in the seas, until the mate ordered us in, from fear of our being washed off.  The anchors were then to be taken up on the rail, which kept all hands on the forecastle for an hour, though every now and then the seas broke over it, washing the rigging off to leeward, filling the lee scuppers breast-high, and washing chock aft to the taff-rail.</p><P>Having got everything secure again, we were promising ourselves some breakfast, for it was now nearly nine o'clock in the forenoon, when the main topsail showed evident signs of giving way.  Some sail must be kept on the ship, and the captain ordered the fore and main spencer gaffs to be lowered down, and the two spencers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:(which were storm sails, bran-new, small, and made of the strongest canvas) to be got up and bent; leaving the main topsail to blow away, with a blessing on it, if it would only last until we could set the spencers.  These we bent on very carefully, with strong robands and seizings, and, making tackles fast to the clews, bowsed them down to the water-ways.  By this time the main topsail was among the things that have been, and we went aloft to stow away the remnant of the last sail of all those which were on the ship twenty-four hours before.  The spencers were now the only whole sails on the ship, and, being strong and small, and near the deck, presenting but little surface to the wind above the rail, promised to hold out well.  Hove-to under these, and eased by having no sail above the tops, the ship rose and fell, and drifted off to leeward like a line-of-battle ship.</p><P>It was now eleven o'clock, and the watch was sent below to get breakfast, and at eight bells (noon), as everything was snug, although the gale had not in the least abated, the watch was set, and the other watch and idlers sent below.  For three days and three nights the gale continued with unabated fury, and with singular regularity.  There were no lulls, and very little variation in its fierceness.  Our ship, being light, rolled so as almost to send the fore yard-arm under water, and drifted off bodily to leeward.  All this time there was not a cloud to be seen in the sky, day or night; no, not so large as a man's hand.  Every morning the sun rose cloudless from the sea, and set again at night in the sea, in a flood of light.  The stars, too, came out of the blue one after another, night after night, unobscured, and twinkled as clear as on a still, frosty night at home, until the day came upon them.  All this time the sea was rolling in immense surges, white with foam, as far <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:as the eye could reach, on every side, for we were now leagues and leagues from shore.</p><P>The between-decks being empty, several of us slept there in hammocks, which are the best things in the world to sleep in during a storm; it not being true of them, as it is of another kind of bed, "when the wind blows the cradle will rock"; for it is the ship that rocks, while they hang vertically from the beams.  During these seventy-two hours we had nothing to do but to turn in and out, four hours on deck, and four below, eat, sleep, and keep watch.  The watches were only varied by taking the helm in turn, and now and then by one of the sails, which were furled, blowing out of the gaskets, and getting adrift, which sent us up on the yards, and by getting tackles on different parts of the rigging, which were slack.  Once the wheel-rope parted, which might have been fatal to us, had not the chief mate sprung instantly with a relieving tackle to windward, and kept the tiller up, till a new rope could be rove.  On the morning of the twentieth, at daybreak, the gale had evidently done its worst, and had somewhat abated; so much so that all hands were called to bend new sails, although it was still blowing as hard as two common gales.  One at a time, and with great difficulty and labor, the old sails were unbent and sent down by the buntlines, and three new topsails, made for the homeward passage round Cape Horn, which had never been bent, were got up from the sail-room, and, under the care of the sailmaker, were fitted for bending, and sent up by the halyards into the tops, and, with stops and frapping-lines, were bent to the yards, close-reefed, sheeted home, and hoisted.  These were bent one at a time, and with the greatest care and difficulty.  Two spare courses were then got up and bent in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:same manner and furled, and a storm-jib, with the bonnet off, bent and furled to the boom.  It was twelve o'clock before we got through, and five hours of more exhausting labor I never experienced; and no one of that ship's crew, I will venture to say, will ever desire again to unbend and bend five large sails in the teeth of a tremendous northwester.  Towards night a few clouds appeared in the horizon, and, as the gale moderated, the usual appearance of driving clouds relieved the face of the sky.  The fifth day after the commencement of the storm, we shook a reef out of each topsail, and set the reefed foresail, jib, and spanker, but it was not until after eight days of reefed topsails that we had a whole sail on the ship, and then it was quite soon enough, for the captain was anxious to make up for leeway, the gale having blown us half the distance to the Sandwich Islands.</p><P>Inch by inch, as fast as the gale would permit, we made sail on the ship, for the wind still continued ahead, and we had many days' sailing to get back to the longitude we were in when the storm took us.  For eight days more we beat to windward under a stiff top-gallant breeze, when the wind shifted and became variable.  A light southeaster, to which we could carry a reefed topmast studding-sail, did wonders for our dead reckoning.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, December 4th</HI>
139.sgm:.  After a passage of twenty days, we arrived at the mouth of the Bay of San Francisco.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>OUR place of destination had been Monterey, but as we were to the northward of it when the wind hauled ahead, we made a fair wind for San Francisco.  This large bay, which lies in latitude 37&deg; 58';, was discovered by Sir Francis Drake, and by him represented to be (as indeed it is) a magnificent bay, containing several good harbors, great depth of water, and surrounded by a fertile and finely wooded country.  About thirty miles from the mouth of the bay, and on the southeast side, is a high point, upon which the Presidio is built.  Behind this point is the little harbor, or bight, called Yerba Buena, in which trading-vessels anchor, and, near it, the Mission of Dolores.  There was no other habitation on this side of the Bay, except a shanty of rough boards put up by a man named Richardson, who was doing a little trading between the vessels and the Indians.<ANCHOR ID="n26-1">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: Here, at anchor, and the only vessel, was a brig under Russian colors, from Sitka, in Russian America, which had come down to winter, and to take in a supply of tallow and grain, great quantities of which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:later article are raised in the Missions at the head of the bay.  The second day after our arrival we went on board the brig, it being Sunday, as a matter of curiosity; and there was enough there to gratify it.  Though no larger than the Pilgrim, she had five or six officers, and a crew of between twenty and thirty; and such a stupid and greasy-looking set, I never saw before.  Although it was quite comfortable weather and we had nothing on but straw hats, shirts, and duck trousers, and were bare-footed, they had, every man of them, doubled-soled boots, coming up to the knees, and well greased; thick woollen trousers, frocks, waistcoats, pea-jackets, woollen caps, and everything in true Nova Zembla rig; and in the warmest days they made no change.  The clothing of one of these men would weigh nearly as much as that of half our crew.  They had brutish faces, looked like the antipodes of sailors, and apparently dealt in nothing but grease.  They lived upon grease; eat it, drank it, slept in the midst of it, and their clothes were covered with it.  To a Russian, grease is the greatest luxury.  They looked with greedy eyes upon the tallow-bags as they were taken into the vessel, and, no doubt, would have eaten one up whole, had not the officer kept watch over it.  The grease appeared to fill their pores, and to come out in their hair and on their faces.  It seems as if it were this saturation which makes them stand cold and rain so well.  If they were to go into a warm climate, they would melt and die of the scurvy.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-1">The next year Richardson built a one-story adobe house on the same spot, which was long afterwards known as the oldest house in the great city of San Francisco.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>The vessel was no better than the crew.  Everything was in the oldest and most inconvenient fashion possible: running trusses and lifts on the yards, and large hawser cables, coiled all over the decks, and served and parcelled in all directions.  The topmasts, top-gallant-masts, and studding-sail booms were nearly black for want of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:scraping, and the decks would have turned the stomach of a man-of-war's-man.  The galley was down in the forecastle; and there the crew lived, in the midst of the steam and grease of the cooking, in a place as hot as an oven, and apparently never cleaned out.  Five minutes in the forecastle was enough for us, and we were glad to get into the open air.  We made some trade with them, buying Indian curiosities, of which they had a great number; such as bead-work, feathers of birds, fur moccasons, &amp;c.  I purchased a large robe, made of the skins of some animals, dried and sewed nicely together, and covered all over on the outside with thick downy feathers, taken from the breasts of various birds, and arranged with their different colors so as to make a brilliant show.</p><P>A few days after our arrival the rainy season set in, and for three weeks it rained almost every hour, without cessation.  This was bad for our trade, for the collecting of hides is managed differently in this port from what it is in any other on the coast.  The Mission of Dolores, near the anchorage, has no trade at all; but those of San Jose&acute;, Santa Clara, and others situated on the large creeks or rivers which run into the bay, and distant between fifteen and forty miles from the anchorage, do a greater business in hides than any in California.  Large boats, or launches, manned by Indians, and capable of carrying from five to six hundred hides apiece, are attached to the Missions, and sent down to the vessels with hides, to bring away goods in return.  Some of the crews of the vessels are obliged to go and come in the boats, to look out for the hides and goods.  These are favorite expeditions with the sailors in fine weather; but now, to be gone three or four days, in open boats, in constant rain, without any shelter, and with cold food, was hard service.  Two of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:our men went up to Santa Clara in one of these boats, and were gone three days, during all which time they had a constant rain, and did not sleep a wink, but passed three long nights walking fore and aft the boat, in the open air.  When they got on board they were completely exhausted, and took a watch below of twelve hours.  All the hides, too, that came down in the boats were soaked with water, and unfit to put below, so that we were obliged to trice them up to dry, in the intervals of sunshine or wind, upon all parts of the vessel.  We got up tricing-lines from the jib-boom-end to each arm of the fore yard, and thence to the main and cross-jack yard-arms.  Between the tops, too, and the mast-heads, from the fore to the main swifters, and thence to the mizzen rigging, and in all directions athwartships, tricing-lines were run, and strung with hides.  The head stays and guys, and the spritsail yard were lined, and, having still more, we got out the swinging-booms, and strung them and the forward and after guys with hides.  The rail, fore and aft, the windlass, capstan, the sides of the schip, and every vacant place on deck, were covered with wet hides, on the least sign of an interval for drying.  Our ship was nothing but a mass of hides, from the cat-harpins to the water's edge, and from the jib-boom-end to the taffrail.</p><P>One cold, rainy evening, about eight o'clock, I received orders to get ready to start for San Jose&acute; at four the next morning, in one of these Indian boats, with four days' provisions.  I got my oil-cloth clothes, southwester, and thick boots ready, and turned into my hammock early, determined to get some sleep in advance, as the boat was to be alongside before daybreak.  I slept on till all hands were called in the morning; for, fortunately for me, the Indians, intentionally, or from mistaking their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:orders, had gone off alone in the night, and were far out of sight.  Thus I escaped three or four days of very uncomfortable service.</p><P>Four of our men, a few days afterwards, went up in one of the quarter-boats to Santa Clara, to carry the agent, and remained out all night in a drenching rain, in the small boat, in which there was not room for them to turn round; the agent having gone up to the Mission and left the men to their fate, making no provision for their accommodation, and not even sending them anything to eat.  After this they had to pull thirty miles, and when they got on board were so stiff that they could not come up the gangway ladder.  This filled up the measure of the agent's unpopularity, and never after this could he get anything done for him by the crew; and many a delay and vexation, and many a good ducking in the surf, did he get to pay up old scores, or "square the yards with the bloody quill-driver."</p><P>Having collected nearly all the hides that were to be procured, we began our preparations for taking in a supply of wood and water, for both of which San Francisco is the best place on the coast.  A small island, about two leagues from the anchorage, called by us "Wood Island," and by the Mexicans "Isla de los Angeles," was covered with trees to the water's edge; and to this two of our crew, who were Kennebec men, and could handle an axe like a plaything, were sent every morning to cut wood, with two boys to pile it up for them.  In about a week they had cut enough to last us a year, and the third mate, with myself and three others, were sent over in a large, schooner-rigged, open launch, which we had hired of the Mission, to take in the wood, and bring it to the ship.  We left the ship about noon, but owing to a strong head wind, and a tide which here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:runs four or five knots, did not get into the harbor, formed by two points of the island, where the boats lie, until sundown.  No sooner had we come-to, than a strong southeaster, which had been threatening us all day, set in, with heavy rain and a chilly air.  We were in rather a bad situation: an open boat, a heavy rain, and a long night; for in winter, in this latitude, it was dark nearly fifteen hours.  Taking a small skiff which we had brought with us, we went ashore, but discovered no shelter, for everything was open to the rain; and, collecting a little wood, which we found by lifting up the leaves and brush, and a few mussels, we put aboard again, and made the best preparations in our power for passing the night.  We unbent the mainsail, and formed an awning with it over the after part of the boat, made a bed of wet logs of wood, and, with our jackets on, lay down, about six o'clock, to sleep.  Finding the rain running down upon us, and our jackets getting wet through, and the rough, knotty logs rather indifferent couches, we turned out; and, taking an iron pan which we brought with us, we wiped it out dry, put some stones around it, cut the wet bark from some sticks, and, striking a light, made a small fire in the pan.  Keeping some sticks near to dry, and covering the whole over with a roof of boards, we kept up a small fire, by which we cooked our mussels, and ate them, rather for an occupation than from hunger.  Still it was not ten o'clock, and the night was long before us, when one of the party produced an old pack of Spanish cards from his monkey-jacket pocket, which we hailed as a great windfall; and, keeping a dim, flickering light by our fagots, we played game after game, till one or two o'clock, when, becoming really tired, we went to our logs again, one sitting up at a time, in turn, to keep watch over the fire.  Toward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:morning the rain ceased, and the air became sensibly colder, so that we found sleep impossible, and sat up, watching for daybreak.  No sooner was it light than we went ashore, and began our preparations for loading our vessel.  We were not mistaken in the coldness of the weather, for a white frost was on the ground, and--a thing we had never seen before in California--one or two little puddles of fresh water were skimmed over with a thin coat of ice.  In this state of the weather, and before sunrise, in the gray of the morning, we had to wade off, nearly up to our hips in water, to load the skiff with the wood by armfuls.  The third mate remained on board the launch, two more men stayed in the skiff to load and manage it, and all the water-work, as usual, fell upon the two youngest of us; and there we were with frost on the ground, wading forward and back, from the beach to the boat, with armfuls of wood, barefooted, and our trousers rolled up.  When the skiff went off with her load, we could only keep our feet from freezing by racing up and down the beach on the hard sand, as fast as we could go.  We were all day at this work, and toward sundown, having loaded the vessel as deep as she would bear, we hove up our anchor and made sail, beating out of the bay.  No sooner had we got into the large bay than we found a strong tide setting us out to seaward, a thick fog which prevented our seeing the ship, and a breeze too light to set us against the tide, for we were as deep as a sand-barge.  By the utmost exertions, we saved ourselves from being carried out to sea, and were glad to reach the leewardmost point of the island, where we came-to, and prepared to pass another night more uncomfortable than the first, for we were loaded up to the gunwale, and had only a choice among logs and sticks for a resting-place.  The next morning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:we made sail at slack water, with a fair wind, and got on board by eleven o'clock, when all hands were turned-to to unload and stow away the wood, which took till night.</p><P>Having now taken in all our wood, the next morning a water-party was ordered off with all the casks.  From this we escaped, having had a pretty good siege with the wooding.  The water-party were gone three days, during which time they narrowly escaped being carried out to sea, and passed one day on an island, where one of them shot a deer, great numbers of which overrun the islands and hills of San Francisco Bay.</p><P>While not off on these wood and water parties, or up the rivers to the Missions, we had easy times on board the ship.  We were moored, stem and stern, within a cable's length of the shore, safe from southeasters, and with little boating to do; and, as it rained nearly all the time, awnings were put over the hatchways, and all hands sent down between decks, where we were at work, day after day, picking oakum, until we got enough to calk the ship all over, and to last the whole voyage.  Then we made a whole suit of gaskets for the voyage home, a pair of wheel-ropes from strips of green hide, great quantities of spun-yarn, and everything else that could be made between decks.  It being now midwinter and in high latitude, the nights were very long, so that we were not turned-to until seven in the morning, and were obliged to knock off at five in the evening, when we got supper; which gave us nearly three hours before eight bells, at which time the watch was set.</p><P>As we had now been about a year on the coast, it was time to think of the voyage home; and, knowing that the last two or three months of our stay would be very busy ones, and that we should never have so good an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:opportunity to work for ourselves as the present, we all employed our evenings in making clothes for the passage home, and more especially for Cape Horn.  As soon as supper was over and the kids cleared away, and each man had taken his smoke, we seated ourselves on our chests round the lamp, which swung from a beam, and went to work each in his own way, some making hats, others trousers, others jackets, &amp;c., &amp;c., and no one was idle.  The boys who could not sew well enough to make their own clothes laid up grass into sinnet for the men, who sewed for them in return.  Several of us clubbed together and bought a large piece of twilled cotton, which we made into trousers and jackets, and, giving them several coats of linseed oil, laid them by for Cape Horn.  I also sewed and covered a tarpaulin hat, thick and strong enough to sit upon, and made myself a complete suit of flannel underclothing for bad weather.  Those who had no southwester caps made them; and several of the crew got up for themselves tarpaulin jackets and trousers, lined on the inside with flannel.  Industry was the order of the day, and every one did something for himself; for we knew that as the season advanced, and we went further south, we should have no evenings to work in.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, December 25th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This day was Christmas; and, as it rained all day long, and there were no hides to take in, and nothing especial to do, the captain gave us a holiday (the first we had had, except Sundays, since leaving Boston), and plum-duff for dinner.  The Russian brig, following the Old Style, had celebrated their Christmas eleven days before, when they had a grand blow-out, and (as our men said) drank, in the forecastle, a barrel of gin, ate up a bag of tallow, and made a soup of the skin.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, December 27th</HI>
139.sgm:.  We had now finished all our business at this port, and, it being Sunday, we unmoored ship and got under way, firing a salute to the Russian brig, and another to the presidio, which were both answered.  The commandante of the presidio, Don Guadalupe Vallejo, a young man, and the most popular, among the Americans and English, of any man in California, was on board when we got under way.  He spoke English very well, and was suspected of being favorably inclined to foreigners.</p><P>We sailed down this magnificent bay with a light wind, the tide, which was running out, carrying us at the rate of four or five knots.  It was a fine day; the first of entire sunshine we had had for more than a month.  We passed directly under the high cliff on which the presidio is built, and stood into the middle of the bay, from whence we could see small bays making up into the interior, large and beautifully wooded islands, and the mouths of several small rivers.  If California ever becomes a prosperous country, this bay will be the centre of its prosperity.  The abundance of wood and water; the extreme fertility of its shores; the excellence of its climate, which is as near to being perfect as any in the world; and its facilities for navigation, affording the best anchoring-grounds in the whole western coast of America, --all fit it for a place of great importance.</p><P>The tide leaving us, we came to anchor near the mouth of the bay, under a high and beautifully sloping hill, upon which herds of hundreds and hundreds of red deer, and the stag, with his high branching antlers, were bounding about, looking at us for a moment, and then starting off, affrighted at the noises which we made for the purpose of seeing the variety of their beautiful attitudes and motions.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>At midnight, the tide having turned, we hove up our anchor and stood out of the bay, with a fine starry heaven above us, --the first we had seen for many weeks.  Before the light northerly winds, which blow here with the regularity of trades, we worked slowly along, and made Point An&tilde;o Nuevo, the northerly point of the Bay of Monterey, on Monday afternoon.  We spoke, going in, the brig Diana, of the Sandwich Islands, from the Northwest Coast, last from Sitka.  She was off the point at the same time with us, but did not get in to the anchoring-ground until an hour or two after us.  It was ten o'clock on Tuesday morning when we came to anchor.  Monterey looked just as it did when I saw it last, which was eleven months before, in the brig Pilgrim.  The pretty lawn on which it stands, as green as sun and rain could make it; the pine wood on the south; the small river on the north side; the adobe houses, with their white walls and red-tiled roofs, dotted about on the green; the low, white presidio, with its soiled tri-colored flag flying, and the discordant din of drums and trumpets of the noon parade, --all brought up the scene we had witnessed here with so much pleasure nearly a year before, when coming from a long voyage, and from our unprepossessing reception at Santa Barbara.  It seemed almost like coming to a home.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THE only other vessel in the port was a Russian government bark from Sitka, mounting eight guns (four of which we found to be quakers), and having on board the ex-governor, who was going in her to Mazatlan, and thence overland to Vera Cruz.  He offered to take letters, and deliver them to the American consul at Vera Cruz, whence they could be easily forwarded to the United States.  We accordingly made up a packet of letters, almost every one writing, and dating them "January 1st, 1836."  The governor was true to his promise, and they all reached Boston before the middle of March; the shortest communication ever yet made across the country.</p><P>The brig Pilgrim had been lying in Monterey through the latter part of November, according to orders, waiting for us.  Day after day Captain Faucon went up to the hill to look out for us, and at last gave us up, thinking we must have gone down in the gale which we experienced off Point Conception, and which had blown with great fury over the whole coast, driving ashore several vessels in the snuggest ports.  An English brig, which had put into San Francisco, lost both her anchors, the Rosa was driven upon a mud bank in San Diego, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and the Pilgrim, with great difficulty, rode out the gale in Monterey, with three anchors ahead.  She sailed early in December for San Diego and <HI REND="italics">intermedios</HI>
139.sgm:.</p><P>As we were to be here over Sunday, and Monterey was the best place to go ashore on the whole coast, and we had had no liberty-day for nearly three months, every one was for going ashore.  On Sunday morning as soon as the decks were washed, and we were through breakfast, those who had obtained liberty began to clean themselves, as it is called, to go ashore.  Buckets of fresh water, cakes of soap, large coarse towels, and we went to work scrubbing one another, on the forecastle.  Having gone through this, the next thing was to step into the head, --one on each side, --with a bucket apiece, and duck one another, by drawing up water and heaving over each other, while we were stripped to a pair of trousers.  Then came the rigging up.  The usual outfit of pumps, white stockings, loose white duck trousers, blue jackets, clean checked shirts, black kerchiefs, hats well varnished, with a fathom of black ribbon over the left eye, a silk handkerchief flying from the outside jacket pocket, and four or five dollars tied up in the back of the neckerchief, and we were "all right."  One of the quarter-boats pulled us ashore, and we streamed up to the town.  I tried to find the church, in order to see the worship, but was told that there was no service, except a mass early in the morning; so we went about the town, visiting the Americans and English, and the Mexicans whom we had known when we were here before.  Toward noon we procured horses, and rode out to the Carmel Mission, which is about a league from the town, where we got something in the way of a dinner--beef, eggs, fri&acute;joles, tortillas, and some middling wine--from the mayor-domo, who, of course, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:refused to make any charge, as it was the Lord's gift, yet received our present, as a gratuity, with a low bow, a touch of the hat, and "Dios se lo pague!"</p><P>After this repast we had a fine run, scouring the country on our fleet horses, and came into town soon after sundown.  Here we found our companions, who had refused to go to ride with us, thinking that a sailor has no more business with a horse than a fish has with a balloon.  They were moored, stem and stern, in a grog-shop, making a great noise, with a crowd of Indians and hungry half-breeds about them, and with a fair prospect of being stripped and dirked, or left to pass the night in the calabozo.  With a great deal of trouble we managed to get them down to the boats, though not without many angry looks and interferences from the Mexicans, who had marked them out for their prey.  The Diana's crew--a set of worthless outcasts who had been picked up at the islands from the refuse of whale-ships--were all as drunk as beasts, and had a set-to on the beach with their captain, who was in no better state than themselves.  They swore they would not go aboard, and went back to the town, were robbed and beaten, and lodged in the calabozo, until the next day, when the captain brought them out.  Our forecastle, as usual after a liberty-day, was a scene of tumult all night long, from the drunken ones.  They had just got to sleep toward morning, when they were turned-up with the rest, and kept at work all day in the water, carrying hides, their heads aching so that they could hardly stand.  This is sailor's pleasure.</p><P>Nothing worthy of remark happened while we were here, except a little boxing-match on board our own ship, which gave us something to talk about.  Our board-backed, big-headed Cape Cod boy, about sixteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:years old, had been playing the bully, for the whole voyage, over a slender, delicate-looking boy from one of the Boston schools, and over whom he had much the advantage in strength, age, and experience in the ship's duty, for this was the first time the Boston boy had been on salt water.  The latter, however, had "picked up his crumbs," was learning his duty, and getting strength and confidence daily, and began to assert his rights against his oppressor.  Still, the other was his master, and, by his superior strength, always tackled with him and threw him down.  One afternoon, before we were turned-to, these boys got into a violent squabble in the between-decks, when George (the Boston boy) said he would fight Nat if he could have fair play.  The chief mate heard the noise, dove down the hatchway, hauled them both up on deck, and told them to shake hands and have no more trouble for the voyage, or else they should fight till one gave in for beaten.  Finding neither willing to make an offer of reconciliation, he called all hands up (for the captain was ashore, and he could do as he chose aboard), ranged the crew in the waist, marked a line on the deck, brought the two boys up to it, making them "toe the mark"; then made the bight of a rope fast to a belaying-pin, and stretched it across the deck, bringing it just above their waists.  "No striking below the rope!"  And there they stood, one on each side of it, face to face, and went at it like two game-cocks.  The Cape Cod boy, Nat, put in his double-fisters, starting the blood, and bringing the black-and-blue spots all over the face and arms of the other, whom we expected to see give in every moment; but, the more he was hurt, the better he fought.  Again and again he was knocked nearly down, but up he came again and faced the mark, as bold as a lion, again to take the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:heavy blows, which sounded so as to make one's heart turn with pity for him.  At length he came up to the mark the last time, his shirt torn from his body, his face covered with blood and bruises, and his eyes flashing fire, and swore he would stand there until one or the other was killed, and set-to like a young fury.  "Hurrah in the bow!" said the men, cheering him on.  "Never say die, while there's a shot in the locker!"  Nat tried to close with him, knowing his advantage, but the mate stopped that, saying there should be fair play, and no fingering.  Nat then came up to the mark, but looked white about the mouth, and his blows were not given with half the spirit of his first.  Something was the matter.  I was not sure whether he was cowed, or, being good-natured, he did not care to beat the boy any more.  At all events he faltered.  He had always been master, and had nothing to gain and everything to lose; while the other fought for honor and freedom, and under a sense of wrong.  It was soon over.  Nat gave in, --apparently not much hurt, --and never afterwards tried to act the bully over the boy.  We took George forward, washed him in the deck-tub, complimented his pluck, and from this time he became somebody on board, having fought himself into notice.  Mr. Brown's plan had a good effect, for there was no more quarrelling among the boys for the rest of the voyage.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, January 6th, 1836</HI>
139.sgm:.  Set sail from Monterey, with a number of Mexicans as passengers, and shaped our course for Santa Barbara.  The Diana went out of the bay in company with us, but parted from us off Point Pinos, being bound to the Sandwich Islands.  We had a smacking breeze for several hours, and went along at a great rate until night, when it died away, as usual, and the land-breeze set in, which brought us upon a taut <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:bowline.  Among our passengers was a young man who was a good representation of a decayed gentleman.  He reminded me much of some of the characters in Gil Blas.  He was of the aristocracy of the country, his family being of pure Spanish blood, and once of considerable importance in Mexico.  His father had been governor of the province, and, having amassed a large property, settled at San Diego, where he built a large house with a court-yard in front, kept a retinue of Indians, and set up for the grandee of that part of the country.  His son was sent to Mexico, where he received an education, and went into the first society of the capital.  Misfortune, extravagance, and the want of any manner of getting interest on money, soon ate the estate up, and Don Juan Bandini returned from Mexico accomplished, poor, and proud, and without any office or occupation, to lead the life of most young men of the better families, --dissipated and extravagant when the means are at hand; ambitious at heart, and impotent in act; often pinched for bread; keeping up an appearance of style, when their poverty is known to each half-naked Indian boy in the street, and standing in dread of every small trader and shopkeeper in the place.  He had a slight and elegant figure, moved gracefully, danced and waltzed beautifully, spoke good Castilian, with a pleasant and refined voice and accent, and had, throughout, the bearing of a man of birth and figure.  Yet here he was, with his passage given him (as I afterwards learned), for he had not the means of paying for it, and living upon the charity of our agent.  He was polite to every one, spoke to the sailors, and gave four reals--I dare say the last he had in his pocket--to the steward, who waited upon him.  I could not but feel a pity for him, especially when I saw him by the side of his fellow-passenger and townsman, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:fat, coarse, vulgar, pretentious fellow of a Yankee trader, who had made money in San Diego, and was eating out the vitals of the Bandinis, fattening upon their extravagance, grinding them in their poverty; having mortgages on their lands, forestalling their cattle, and already making an inroad upon their jewels, which were their last hope.</p><P>Don Juan had with him a retainer, who was as much like many of the characters in Gil Blas as his master.  He called himself a private secretary, though there was no writing for him to do, and he lived in the steerage with the carpenter and sailmaker.  He was certainly a character; could read and write well; spoke good Spanish; had been over the greater part of Spanish America, and lived in every possible situation, and served in every conceivable capacity, though generally in that of confidential servant to some man of figure.  I cultivated this man's acquaintance, and during the five weeks that he was with us, --for he remained on board until we arrived at San Diego, --I gained a greater knowledge of the state of political parties in Mexico, and the habits and affairs of the differnt classes of society, than I could have learned from almost any one else.  He took great pains in correcting my Spanish, and supplying me with colloquial phrases, and common terms and exclamations, in speaking.  He lent me a file of late newspapers from the city of Mexico, which were full of the triumphal reception of Santa Ana, who had just returned from Tampico after a victory, and with the preparations for his expedition against the Texans.  "Viva Santa Ana!" was the byword everywhere, and it had even reached California, though there were still many here, among whom was Don Juan Bandini, who were opposed to his government, and intriguing to bring in Bustamente.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Santa Ana, they said, was for breaking down the Missions; or, as they termed it, "Santa Ana no quiere religion."  Yet I had no doubt that the office of administrador of San Diego would reconcile Don Juan to any dynasty, and any state of the church.  In these papers, too, I found scraps of American and English news; but which was so unconnected, and I was so ignorant of everything preceding them for eighteen months past, that they only awakened a curiosity which they could not satisfy.  One article spoke of Taney as Justicia Mayor de los Estados Unidos, (what had become of Marshall? was he dead, or banished?) and another made known, by news received from Vera Cruz, that "El Vizconde Melbourne" had returned to the office of "primer ministro," in place of Sir Roberto Peel.  (Sir Robert Peel had been minister, then? and where were Earl Grey and the Duke of Wellington?)  Here were the outlines of grand political overturns, the filling up of which I was left to imagine at my leisure.</p><P>The second morning after leaving Monterey, we were off Point Conception.  It was a bright, sunny day, and the wind, though strong, was fair; and everything was in striking contrast with our experience in the same place two months before, when we were drifting off from a northwester under a fore and main spencer.  "Sail ho!" cried a man who was rigging out a top-gallant studding-sail boom.--"Where away?"--"Weather beam, sir!" and in a few minutes a full-rigged brig was seen standing out from under Point Conception.  The studding-sail halyards were let go, and the yards boomended, the after yards braced aback, and we waited her coming down.  She rounded to, backed her main top-sail, and showed her decks full of men, four guns on a side, hammock nettings, and everything man-of-war <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:fashion, except that there was no boatswain's whistle, and no uniforms on the quarter-deck.  A short, square-built man, in a rough gray jacket, with a speaking-trumpet in hand, stood in the weather hammock nettings.  "Ship ahoy!"--"Hallo!"--"What ship is that, pray?"--"Alert."--"Where are you from, pray?" &amp;c., &amp;c.  She proved to be the brig Convoy, from the Sandwich Islands, engaged in otter-hunting among the islands which lie along the coast.  Her armament was because of her being a contrabandista.  The otter are very numerous among these islands, and, being of great value, the government require a heavy sum for a license to hunt them, and lay a high duty upon every one shot or carried out of the country.  This vessel had no license, and paid no duty, besides being engaged in smuggling goods on board other vessels trading on the coast, and belonging to the same owners in Oahu.  Our captain told him to look out for the Mexicans, but he said that they had not an armed vessel of his size in the whole Pacific.  This was without doubt the same vessel that showed herself off Santa Barbara a few months before.  These vessels frequently remain on the coast for years, without making port, except at the islands for wood and water, and an occasional visit to Oahu for a new outfit.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, January 10th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Arrived at Santa Barbara, and on the following Wednesday slipped our cable and went to sea, on account of a southeaster.  Returned to our anchorage the next day.  We were the only vessel in the port.  The Pilgrim had passed through the Canal and hove-to off the town, nearly six weeks before, on her passage down from Monterey, and was now at the leeward.  She heard here of our safe arrival at San Francisco.</p><P>Great preparations were making on shore for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:marriage of our agent, who was to marry Don&tilde;a Anita de la Guerra de Noriego y Corillo, youngest daughter of Don Antonio Noriego, the grandee of the place, and the head of the first family in California.  Our steward was ashore three days, making pastry and cake, and some of the best of our stores were sent off with him.  On the day appointed for the wedding, we took the captain ashore in the gig, and had orders to come for him at night, with leave to go up to the house and see the fandango.  Returning on board, we found preparations making for a salute.  Our guns were loaded and run out, men appointed to each, cartridges served out, matches lighted, and all the flags ready to be run up.  I took my place at the starboard after gun, and we all waited for the signal from on shore.  At ten o'clock the bride went up with her sister to the confessional, dressed in deep black.  Nearly an hour intervened, when the great doors of the Mission church opened, the bells rang out a loud, discordant peal, the private signal for us was run up by the captain ashore, the bride, dressed in complete white, came out of the church with the bridegroom, followed by a long procession.  Just as she stepped from the church door, a small white cloud issued from the bows of our ship, which was full in sight, the loud report echoed among the surrounding hills and over the bay, and instantly the ship was dressed in flags and pennants from stem to stern.  Twenty-three guns followed in regular succession, with an interval of fifteen seconds between each, when the cloud blew off, and our ship lay dressed in her colors all day.  At sundown another salute of the same number of guns was fired, and all the flags run down.  This we thought was pretty well--a gun every fifteen seconds--for a merchantman with only four guns and a dozen or twenty men.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>After supper, the gig's crew were called, and we rowed ashore, dressed in our uniform, beached the boat, and went up to the fandango.  The bride's father's house was the principal one in the place, with a large court in front, upon which a tent was built, capable of containing several hundred people.  As we drew near, we heard the accustomed sound of violins and guitars, and saw a great motion of the people within.  Going in, we found nearly all the people of the town--men, women, and children--collected and crowded together, leaving barely room for the dancers; for on these occasions no invitations are given, but every one is expected to come, though there is always a private entertainment within the house for particular friends.  The old women sat down in rows, clapping their hands to the music, and applauding the young ones.  The music was lively, and among the tunes we recognized several of our popular airs, which we, without doubt, have taken from the Spanish.  In the dancing I was much disappointed.  The women stood upright, with their hands down by their sides, their eyes fixed upon the ground before them, and slided about without any perceptible means of motion; for their feet were invisible, the hem of their dresses forming a circle about them, reaching to the ground.  They looked as grave as though they were going through some religious ceremony, their faces as little excited as their limbs; and on the whole, instead of the spirited, fascinating Spanish dances which I had expected, I found the Californian fandango, on the part of the women at least, a lifeless affair.  The men did better.  They danced with grace and spirit, moving in circles round their nearly stationary partners, and showing their figures to advantage.</p><P>A great deal was said about our friend Don Juan <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Bandini, and when he did appear, which was toward the close of the evening, he certainly gave us the most graceful dancing that I had ever seen.  He was dressed in white pantaloons, neatly made, a short jacket of dark silk, gayly figured, white stockings and thin morocco slippers upon his very small feet.  His slight and graceful figure was well adapted to dancing, and he moved about with the grace and daintiness of a young fawn.  An occasional touch of the toe to the ground seemed all that was necessary to give him a long interval of motion in the air.  At the same time he was not fantastic or flourishing, but appeared to be rather repressing a strong tendency to motion.  He was loudly applauded, and danced frequently toward the close of the evening.  After the supper, the waltzing began, which was confined to a very few of the "gente de razon," and was considered a high accomplishment, and a mark of aristocracy.  Here, too, Don Juan figured greatly, waltzing with the sister of the bride (Don&tilde;a Angustias, a handsome woman and a general favorite) in a variety of beautiful figures, which lasted as much as half an hour, no one else taking the floor.  They were repeatedly and loudly applauded, the old men and women jumping out of their seats in admiration, and the young people waving their hats and handkerchiefs.  The great amusement of the evening--owing to its being the Carnival--was the breaking of eggs filled with cologne, or other essences, upon the heads of the company.  The women bring a great number of these secretly about them, and the amusement is to break one upon the head of a gentleman when his back is turned.  He is bound in gallantry to find out the lady and return the compliment, though it must not be done if the person sees you.  A tall, stately Don, with immense gray whiskers, and a look of great importance, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:standing before me, when I felt a light hand on my shoulder, and, turning round, saw Don&tilde;a Angustias (whom we all knew, as she had been up to Monterey, and down again, in the Alert), with her finger upon her lip, motioning me gently aside.  I stepped back a little, when she went up behind the Don, and with one hand knocked off his huge <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
139.sgm:, and at the same instant, with the other, broke the egg upon his head, and, springing behind me, was out of sight in a moment.  The Don turned slowly round, the cologne running down his face and over his clothes, and a loud laugh breaking out from every quarter.  He looked round in vain for some time, until the direction of so many laughing eyes showed him the fair offender.  She was his niece, and a great favorite with him, so old Don Domingo had to join in the laugh.  A great many such tricks were played, and many a war of sharp man&oelig;uvring was carried on between couples of the younger people, and at every successful exploit a general laugh was raised.</p><P>Another of their games I was for some time at a loss about.  A pretty young girl was dancing, named--after what would appear to us an almost sacrilegious custom of the country--Espi&acute;ritu Santo, when a young man went behind her and placed his hat directly upon her head, letting it fall down over her eyes, and sprang back among the crowd.  She danced for some time with the hat on, when she threw it off, which called forth a general shout, and the young man was obliged to go out upon the floor and pick it up.  Some of the ladies, upon whose heads hats had been placed, threw them off at once, and a few kept them on throughout the dance, and took them off at the end, and held them out in their hands, when the owner stepped out, bowed, and took it from them.  I soon began to suspect the meaning of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:thing, and was afterwards told that it was a compliment, and an offer to become the lady's gallant for the rest of the evening, and to wait upon her home.  If the hat was thrown off, the offer was refused, and the gentleman was obliged to pick up his hat amid a general laugh.  Much amusement was caused sometimes by gentlemen putting hats on the ladies' heads, without permitting them to see whom it was done by.  This obliged them to throw them off, or keep them on at a venture, and when they came to discover the owner the laugh was turned upon one or the other.</p><P>The captain sent for us about ten o'clock, and we went aboard in high spirits, having enjoyed the new scene much, and were of great importance among the crew, from having so much to tell, and from the prospect of going every night until it was over; for these fandangos generally last three days.  The next day, two of us were sent up to the town, and took care to come back by way of Sen&tilde;or Noriego's, and take a look into the booth.  The musicians were again there, upon their platform, scraping and twanging away, and a few people, apparently of the lower classes, were dancing.  The dancing is kept up, at intervals, throughout the day, but the crowd, the spirit, and the <HI REND="italics">e&acute;lite</HI>
139.sgm: come in at night.  The next night, which was the last, we went ashore in the same manner, until we got almost tired of the monotonous twang of the instruments, the drawling sounds which the women kept up, as an accompaniment, and the slapping of the hands in time with the music, in place of castanets.  We found ourselves as great objects of attention as any persons or anything at the place.  Our sailor dresses--and we took great pains to have them neat and ship-shape--were much admired, and we were invited, from every quarter, to give them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:an American dance; but after the ridiculous figure some of our countrymen cut in dancing after the Mexicans, we thought it best to leave it to their imaginations.  Our agent, with a tight, black, swallow-tailed coat just imported from Boston, a high stiff cravat, looking as if he had been pinned and skewered, with only his feet and hands left free, took the floor just after Bandini, and we thought they had had enough of Yankee grace.</p><P>The last night they kept it up in great style, and were getting into a high-go, when the captain called us off to go aboard, for, it being southeaster season, he was afraid to remain on shore long; and it was well he did not, for that night we slipped our cables, as a crowner to our fun ashore, and stood off before a southeaster, which lasted twelve hours, and returned to our anchorage the next day.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>MONDAY, <HI REND="italics">February, 1st</HI>
139.sgm:.  After having been in port twenty-one days, we sailed for San Pedro, where we arrived on the following day, having gone "all fluking," with the weather clew of the mainsail hauled up, the yards braced in a little, and the lower studding-sail just drawing; the wind hardly shifting a point during the passage.  Here we found the Ayacucho and the Pilgrim, which last we had not seen since the IIth of September, --nearly five months; and I really felt something like an affection for the old brig which had been my first home, and in which I had spent nearly a year, and got the first rough and tumble of a sea life.  She, too, was associated in my mind with Boston, the wharf from which we sailed, anchorage in the stream, leave-taking, and all such matters, which were now to me like small links connecting me with another world, which I had once been in, and which, please God, I might yet see again.  I went on board the first night, after supper; found the old cook in the galley, playing upon the fife which I had given him as a parting present; had a hearty shake of the hand from him; and dove down into the forecastle, where were my old shipmates, the same as ever, glad to see me; for they had nearly given <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:us up as lost, especially when they did not find us in Santa Barbara.  They had been at San Diego last, had been lying at San Pedro nearly a month, and had received three thousand hides from the pueblo.  But-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Sic vos non vobis"</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>these we took from her the next day, which filled us up, and we both got under way on the 4th, she bound to San Francisco again, and we to San Diego, where we arrived on the 6th.</p><P>We were always glad to see San Diego; it being the depot, and a snug little place, and seeming quite like home, especially to me, who had spent a summer there.  There was no vessel in port, the Rosa having sailed for Valparaiso and Cadiz, and the Catalina for Callao, nearly a month before.  We discharged our hides, and in four days were ready to sail again for the windward; and, to our great joy-- <HI REND="italics">for the last time</HI>
139.sgm:!  Over thirty thousand hides had been already collected, cured, and stowed away in the house, which, together with what we should collect, and the Pilgrim would bring down from San Francisco, would make out our cargo.  The thought that we were actually going up for the last time, and that the next time we went round San Diego point it would be "homeward bound," brought things so near a close that we felt as though we were just there, though it must still be the greater part of a year before we could see Boston.</p><P>I spent one evening, as had been my custom, at the oven with the Sandwich-Islanders; but it was far from being the usual noisy, laughing time.  It has been said that the greates curse to each of the South Sea Islands was the first man who discovered it; and every one who knows anything of the history of our commerce in those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:parts knows how much truth there is in this; and that the white men, with their vices, have brought in diseases before unknown to the islanders, which are now sweeping off the native population of the Sandwich Islands at the rate of one fortieth of the entire population annually.  They seem to be a doomed people.  The curse of a people calling themselves Christians seems to follow them everywhere; and even here, in this obscure place, lay two young islanders, whom I had left strong, active young men, in the vigor of health, wasting away under a disease which they would never have known but for their intercourse with people from Christian America and Europe.  One of them was not so ill, and was moving about, smoking his pipe, and talking, and trying to keep up his spirits; but the other, who was my friend and <HI REND="italics">aikane</HI>
139.sgm:, Hope, was the most dreadful object I had ever seen in my life, --his eyes sunken and dead, his cheeks fallen in against his teeth, his hands looking like claws; a dreadful cough, which seemed to rack his whole shattered system, a hollow, whispering voice, and an entire inability to move himself.  There he lay, upon a mat, on the ground, which was the only floor of the oven, with no medicine, no comforts, and no one to care for or help him but a few Kanakas, who were willing enough, but could do nothing.  The sight of him made me sick and faint.  Poor fellow!  During the four months that I lived upon the beach, we were continually together, in work, and in our excursions in the woods and upon the water.  I felt a strong affection for him, and preferred him to any of my own countrymen there; and I believe there was nothing which he would not have done for me.  When I came into the oven he looked at me, held out his hand, and said, in a low voice, but with a delightful smile, " <HI REND="italics">Aloha, Aikane! Aloha nui</HI>
139.sgm:!"  I comforted him as well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:as I could, and promised to ask the captain to help him from the medicine-chest, and told him I had no doubt the captain would do what he could for him, as he had worked in our employ for several years, both on shore and aboard our vessels on the coast.  I went aboard and turned into my hammock, but I could not sleep.</p><P>Thinking, from my education, that I must have some knowledge of medicine, the Kanakas had insisted upon my examining him carefully; and it was not a sight to be forgotten.  One of our crew, an old man-of-war's-man of twenty years' standing, who had seen sin and suffering in every shape, and whom I afterwards took to see Hope, said it was dreadfully worse than anything he had ever seen, or even dreamed of.  He was horror-struck, as his countenance showed; yet he had been among the worst cases in our naval hospitals.  I could not get the thought of the poor fellow out of my head all night, --his dreadful suffering, and his apparently inevitable horrible end.</p><P>The next day I told Captain Thompson of Hope's state, and asked him if he would be so kind as to go and see him.</p><P>"What? a d--d Kanaka?"</p><P>"Yes, sir," said I; "but he has worked four years for our vessels, and has been in the employ of our owners, both on shore and aboard."</p><P>"Oh! he be d--d!" said the captain, and walked off.</p><P>This man died afterwards of a fever on the deadly coast of Sumatra; and God grant he had better care taken of him in his sufferings than he ever gave to any one else.</p><P>Finding nothing was to be got from the captain, I consulted an old shipmate, who had much experience in these matters, and got a recipe from him, which he kept by him.  With this I went to the mate, and told <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:him the case.  Mr. Brown had been intrusted with the general care of the medicine-chest, and although a driving fellow, and a taut hand in a watch, he had good feelings, and was inclined to be kind to the sick.  He said that Hope was not strictly one of the crew, but, as he was in our employ when taken sick, he should have the medicines; and he got them and gave them to me, with leave to go ashore at night.  Nothing could exceed the delight of the Kanakas, when I came, bringing the medicines.  All their terms of affection and gratitude were spent upon me, and in a sense wasted (for I could not understand half of them), yet they made all known by their manner.  Poor Hope was so much revived at the bare thought of anything being done for him that he seemed already stronger and better.  I knew he must die as he was, and he could but die under the medicines, and any chance was worth running.  An oven exposed to every wind and change of weather is no place to take calomel; but nothing else would do, and strong remedies must be used, or he was gone.  The applications, internal and external, were powerful, and I gave him strict directions to keep warm and sheltered, telling him it was his only chance for life.  Twice after this, I visited him, having only time to run up, while waiting in the boat.  He promised to take his medicines regularly while we were up the coast, until we returned, and insisted upon it that he was doing better.</p><P>We got under way on the 10th, bound up to San Pedro, and had three days of calm and head winds, making but little progress.  On the fourth, we took a stiff southeaster, which obliged us to reef our topsails.  While on the yard, we saw a sail on the weather bow, and in about half an hour passed the Ayacucho, under double-reefed topsails, beating down to San Diego.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Arrived at San Pedro on the fourth day, and came-to in the old place, a league from shore, with no other vessel in port, and the prospect of three weeks or more of dull life, rolling goods up a slippery hill, carrying hides on our heads over sharp stones, and, perhaps, slipping for a southeaster.</p><P>There was but one man in the only house here, and him I shall always remember as a good specimen of a California ranger.  He had been a tailor in Philadelphia, and, getting intemperate and in debt, joined a trapping party, and went to the Columbia River, and thence down to Monterey, where he spent everything, left his party, and came to the Pueblo de los Angeles to work at his trade.  Here he went dead to leeward among the pulperi&acute;as, gambling-rooms, &amp;c., and came down to San Pedro to be moral by being out of temptation.  He had been in the house several weeks, working hard at his trade, upon orders which he had brought with him, and talked much of his resolution, and opened his heart to us about his past life.  After we had been here some time, he started off one morning, in fine spirits, well dressed, to carry the clothes which he had been making to the pueblo, and saying that he would bring back his money and some fresh orders the next day.  The next day came, and a week passed, and nearly a fortnight, when one day, going ashore, we saw a tall man, who looked like our friend the tailor, getting out of the back of an Indian's cart, which had just come down from the pueblo.  He stood for the house, but we bore up after him; when, finding that we were overhauling him, he hove-to and spoke us.  Such a sight!  Barefooted, with an old pair of trousers tied round his waist by a piece of green hide, a soiled cotton shirt, and a torn Indian hat; "cleaned out" to the last real, and completely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:"used up."  He confessed the whole matter; acknowledged that he was on his back; and now he had a prospect of a fit of the horrors for a week, and of being worse than useless for months.  This is a specimen of the life of half of the Americans and English who are adrift along the coasts of the Pacific and its islands, --commonly called "beach-combers."  One of the same stamp was Russell, who was master of the hide-house at San Diego while I was there, but had been afterwards dismissed for his misconduct.  He spent his own money, and nearly all the stores among the half-bloods upon the beach, and went up to the presidio, where he lived the life of a desperate "loafer," until some rascally deed sent him off "between two days," with men on horseback, dogs, and Indians in full cry after him, among the hills.  One night he burst into our room at the hide-house, breathless, pale as a ghost, covered with mud, and torn by thorns and briers, nearly naked, and begged for a crust of bread, saying he had neither eaten nor slept for three days.  Here was the great <HI REND="italics">Mr</HI>
139.sgm:. Russell, who a month before was "Don Tomas," "Capitan de la playa," "Maestro de la casa," &amp;c., &amp;c., begging food and shelter of Kanakas and sailors.  He stayed with us till he had given himself up, and was dragged off to the calabozo.</p><P>Another, and a more amusing, specimen was one whom we saw at San Francisco.  He had been a lad on board the ship California, in one of her first voyages, and ran away and commenced <HI REND="italics">Ranchero</HI>
139.sgm:, gambling, stealing horses, &amp;c.  He worked along up to San Francisco, and was living on a rancho near there while we were in port.  One morning, when we went ashore in the boat, we found him at the landing-place, dressed in California style, --a wide hat, faded velveteen trousers, and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:blanket thrown over his shoulders, --and wishing to go off in the boat, saying he was going to pasear with our captain a little.  We had many doubts of the reception he would meet with; but he seemed to think himself company for any one.  We took him aboard, landed him at the gangway, and went about our work, keeping an eye upon the quarter-deck, where the captain was walking.  The lad went up to him with complete assurance, and, raising his hat, wished him a good afternoon.  Captain Thompson turned round, looked at him from head to foot, and, saying coolly, "Hallo! who the hell are you?" kept on his walk.  This was a rebuff not to be mistaken, and the joke passed about among the crew by winks and signs at different parts of the ship.  Finding himself disappointed at head-quarters, he edged along forward to the mate, who was overseeing some work upon the forecastle, and tried to begin a yarn; but it would not do.  The mate had seen the reception he had met with aft, and would have no cast-off company.  The second mate was aloft, and the third mate and myself were painting the quarter-boat, which hung by the davits, so he betook himself to us; but we looked at each other, and the officer was too busy to say a word.  From us, he went to one and another of the crew, but the joke had got before him, and he found everybody busy and silent.  Looking over the rail a few moments afterward, we saw him at the galley-door talking with the cook.  This was indeed a come-down, from the highest seat in the synagogue to a seat in the galley with the black cook.  At night, too, when supper was called, he stood in the waist for some time, hoping to be asked down with the officers, but they went below, one after another, and left him.  His next chance was with the carpenter and sailmaker, and he lounged round the after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:hatchway until the last had gone down.  We had now had fun enough out of him, and, taking pity on him, offered him a pot of tea, and a cut at the kid, with the rest, in the forecastle.  He was hungry, and it was growing dark, and he began to see that there was no use in playing the <HI REND="italics">caballero</HI>
139.sgm: any longer, and came down into the forecastle, put into the "grub" in sailor's style, threw off all his airs, and enjoyed the joke as much as any one; for a man must take a joke among sailors.  He gave us an account of his adventures in the country, --roguery and all, --and was very entertaining.  He was a smart, unprincipled fellow, was in many of the rascally doings of the country, and gave us a great deal of interesting information as to the ways of the world we were in.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, February 13th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Were called up at midnight to slip for a violent northeaster; for this miserable hole of San Pedro is thought unsafe in almost every wind.  We went off with a flowing sheet, and hove-to under the lee of Catalina Island, where we lay three days, and then returned to our anchorage.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, February 23d</HI>
139.sgm:.  This afternoon a signal was made from the shore, and we went off in the gig, and found the agent's clerk, who had been up to the pueblo, waiting at the landing-place, with a package under his arm, covered with brown paper and tied carefully with twine.  No sooner had we shoved off than he told us there was good news from Santa Barbara.  "What's that?" said one of the crew; "has the bloody agent slipped off the hooks?  Has the old bundle of bones got him at last?"--"No; better than that.  The California has arrived."  Letters, papers, news, and, perhaps, --friends, on board!  Our hearts were all up in our mouths, and we pulled away like good fellows, for the precious packet could not be opened except by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:the captain.  As we pulled under the stern, the clerk held up the package, and called out to the mate, who was leaning over the taffrail; that the California had arrived.</p><P>"Hurrah!" said the mate, so as to be heard fore and aft; "California come, and news from Boston!"</p><P>Instantly there was a confusion on board which no one would understand who had not been in the same situation.  All discipline seemed for a moment relaxed.</p><P>"What's that, Mr. Brown?" said the cook, putting his head out of the galley; "California come?"</p><P>"Aye, aye! you angel of darkness, and there's a letter for you from <HI REND="italics">Bullknop</HI>
139.sgm: 'treet, number two-two-five, --green door and brass knocker!"</p><P>The packet was sent down into the cabin, and every one waited to hear of the result.  As nothing came up, the officers began to feel that they were acting rather a child's part, and turned the crew to again; and the same strict discipline was restored, which prohibits speech between man and man while at work on deck; so that, when the steward came forward with letters for the crew, each man took his letters, carried them below to his chest, and came up again immediately, and not a letter was read until we had cleared up decks for the night.</p><P>An overstrained sense of manliness is the characteristic of sea-faring men.  This often gives an appearance of want of feeling, and even of cruelty.  From this, if a man comes within an ace of breaking his neck and escapes, it is made a joke of; and no notice must be taken of a bruise or a cut; and any expression of pity, or any show of attention, would look sisterly, and unbecoming a man who has to face the rough and tumble of such a life.  From this cause, too, the sick are neglected at sea, and, whatever sailors may be ashore, a sick man finds little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:sympathy or attention, forward of aft.  A man, too, can have nothing peculiar or sacred on board ship; for all the nicer feelings they take pride in disregarding, both in themselves and others.  A <HI REND="italics">thin-skinned</HI>
139.sgm: man could hardly live on shipboard.  One would be torn raw unless he had the hide of an ox.  A moment of natural feeling for home and friends, and then the frigid routine of sea life returned.  Jokes were made upon those who showed any interest in the expected news, and everything near and dear was made common stock for rude jokes and unfeeling coarseness, to which no exception could be taken by any one.</p><P>Supper, too, must be eaten before the letters were read; and when, at last, they were brought out, they all got round any one who had a letter, and expected to hear it read aloud, and have it all in common.  If any one went by himself to read, it was--"Fair play, there, and no skulking!"  I took mine and went into the sail-maker's berth where I could read it without interruption.  It was dated August, just a year from the time I had sailed from home, and every one was well, and no great change had taken place.  Thus, for one year, my mind was set at ease, yet it was already six months from the date of the letter, and what another year would bring to pass who could tell?  Every one away from home thinks that some great thing must have happened, while to those at home there seems to be a continued monotony and lack of incident.</p><P>As much as my feelings were taken up by my own news from home, I could not but be amused by a scene in the steerage.  The carpenter had been married just before leaving Boston, and during the voyage had talked much about his wife, and had to bear and forbear, as every man, known to be married, must, aboard ship; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:yet the certainty of hearing from his wife by the first ship seemed to keep up his spirits.  The California came, the packet was brought on board, no one was in higher spirits than he; but when the letters came forward, there was none for him.  The captain looked again, but there was no mistake.  Poor "Chips" could eat no supper.  He was completely down in the mouth.  "Sails" (the sailmaker) tried to comfort him, and told him he was a bloody fool to give up his grub for any woman's daughter, and reminded him that he had told him a dozen times that he'd never see or hear from his wife again.</p><P>"Ah!" said Chips, "you don't know what it is to have a wife, and--"</p><P>"Don't I?" said Sails; and then came, for the hundredth time, the story of his coming ashore at New York, from the Constellation frigate, after a cruise of four years round the Horn, --being paid off with over five hundred dollars, --marrying, and taking a couple of rooms in a four-story house, --furnishing the rooms (with a particular account of the furniture, including a dozen flag-bottomed chairs, which he always dilated upon whenever the subject of furniture was alluded to), --going off to sea again, leaving his wife half-pay like a fool, --coming home and finding her "off, like Bob's horse, with nobody to pay the reckoning"; furniture gone, flag-bottomed chairs and all, --and with it his "long togs," the half-pay, his beaver hat, and white linen shirts.  His wife he never saw or heard of from that day to this, and never wished to.  Then followed a sweeping assertion, not much to the credit of the sex, in which he has Pope to back him.  "Come, Chips, cheer up like a man, and take some hot grub!  Don't be made a fool of by anything in petticoats!  As for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:your wife, you'll never see her again; she was 'up keeleg and off' before you were outside of Cape Cod.  You've hove your money away like a fool; but every man must learn once, just as I did; so you'd better square the yards with her, and make the best of it."</p><P>This was the best consolation "Sails" had to offer, but it did not seem to be just the thing the carpenter wanted; for, during several days, he was very much dejected, and bore with difficulty the jokes of the sailors, and with still more difficulty their attempts at advice and consolation, of most of which the sailmaker's was a good specimen.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday, February 25th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Set sail for Santa Barbara, where we arrived on Sunday, the 28th.  We just missed seeing the California, for she had sailed three days before, bound to Monterey, to enter her cargo and procure her license, and thence to San Francisco, &amp;c.  Captain Arthur left files of Boston papers for Captain Thompson, which, after they had been read and talked over in the cabin, I procured from my friend the third mate.  One file was of all the Boston Transcripts for the month of August, 1835, and the rest were about a dozen Daily Advertisers and Couriers of different dates.  After all, there is nothing in a strange land like a newspaper from home.  Even a letter, in many respects, is nothing in comparison with it.  It carries you back to the spot better than anything else.  It is almost equal to <HI REND="italics">clairvoyance</HI>
139.sgm:.  The names of the streets, with the things advertised, are almost as good as seeing the signs; and while reading "Boy lost!" one can almost hear the bell and well-known voice of "Old Wilson," crying the boy as "strayed, stolen, <HI REND="italics">or mislaid</HI>
139.sgm:!"  Then there was the Commencement at Cambridge, and the full account of the exercises at the graduating of my own class.  A list <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of all those familiar names (beginning as usual with Abbot, and ending with W), which, as I read them over, one by one, brought up their faces and characters as I had known them in the various scenes of college life.  Then I imagined them upon the stage, speaking their orations, dissertations, colloquies, &amp;c., with the familiar gestures and tones of each, and tried to fancy the manner in which each would handle his subject. --,handsome, showy, and superficial; --, with his strong head, clear brain, cool self-possession; --, modest, sensitive, and underrated; --, the mouth-piece of the debating clubs, noisy, vaporous, and democratic; and, so, following.  Then I could see them receiving their A. B.'s from the dignified, feudal-looking President, with his "auctoritate mihi commissa&circ;," and walking off the stage with their diplomas in their hands; while upon the same day their classmate was walking up and down California beach with a hide upon his head.</p><P>Every watch below, for a week, I pored over these papers, until I was sure there could be nothing in them that had escaped my attention, and was ashamed to keep them any longer.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, March 5th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This was an important day in our almanac, for it was on this day that we were first assured that our voyage was really drawing to a close.  The captain gave orders to have the ship ready for getting under way; and observed that there was a good breeze to take us down to San Pedro.  Then we were not going up to windward.  Thus much was certain, and was soon known fore and aft; and when we went in the gig to take him off, he shook hands with the people on the beach, and said that he did not expect to see Santa Barbara again.  This settled the matter, and sent a thrill of pleasure through the heart of every one in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:boat.  We pulled off with a will, saying to ourselves (I can speak for myself at least), "Good by, Santa Barbara!  This is the last pull here!  No more duckings in your breakers, and slipping from your cursed southeasters!"  The news was soon known aboard, and put life into everything when we were getting under way.  Each one was taking his last look at the Mission, the town, the breakers on the beach, and swearing that no money would make him ship to see them again; and when all hands tallied on to the cat-fall, the chorus of "Time for us to go!" was raised for the first time, and joined in, with full swing, by everybody.  One would have thought we were on our voyage home, so near did it seem to us, though there were yet three months for us on the coast.</p><P>We left here the young Englishman, George Marsh, of whom I have before spoken, who was wrecked upon the Pelew Islands.  He left us to take the berth of second mate on board the Ayacucho, which was lying in port.  He was well qualified for this post, and his education would enable him to rise to any situation on board ship.  I felt really sorry to part from him.  There was something about him which excited my curiosity; for I could not, for a moment, doubt that he was well born, and, in early life, well bred.  There was the latent gentleman about him, and the sense of honor, and no little of the pride, of a young man of good family.  The situation was offered him only a few hours before we sailed; and though he must give up returning to America, yet I have no doubt that the change from a dog's berth to an officer's was too agreeable to his feelings to be declined.  We pulled him on board the Ayacucho, and when he left the boat he gave each of its crew a piece of money except myself, and shook hands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:with me, nodding his head, as much as to say "We understand each other," and sprang on board.  Had I known, an hour sooner, that he was to leave us, I would have made an effort to get from him the true history of his birth and early life.  He knew that I had no faith in the story which he told the crew about them, and perhaps, in the moment of parting from me, probably forever, he would have given me the true account.  Whether I shall ever meet him again, or whether his manuscript narrative of his adventures in the Pelew Islands, which would be creditable to him and interesting to the world, will ever see the light, I cannot tell.  His is one of those cases which are more numerous than those suppose who have never lived anywhere but in their own homes, and never walked but in one line from their cradles to their graves.  We must come down from our heights, and leave our straight paths for the by-ways and low places of life, if we would learn truths by strong contrasts; and in hovels, in forecastles, and among our own outcasts in foreign lands, see what has been wrought among our fellow-creatures by accident, hardship, or vice.</p><P>Two days brought us to San Pedro, and two days more (to our no small joy) gave us our last view of that place, which was universally called the hell of California, and seemed designed in every way for the wear and tear of sailors.  Not even the last view could bring out one feeling of regret.  No thanks, thought I, as we left the hated shores in the distance, for the hours I have walked over your stones barefooted, with hides on my head, --for the burdens I have carried up your steep, muddy hill, --for the duckings in your surf; and for the long days and longer nights passed on your desolate hill, watching piles of hides, hearing the sharp bark of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:your eternal coyotes, and the dismal hooting of your owls.</p><P>As I bade good by to each successive place, I felt as though one link after another were struck from the chain of my servitude.  Having kept close in shore for the land-breeze, we passed the Mission of San Juan Capistrano the same night, and saw distinctly, by the bright moonlight, the cliff which I had gone down by a pair of halyards in search of a few paltry hides.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Forsan et h&aelig;c olim,"</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>thought I, and took my last look of that place too.  And on the next morning we were under the high point of San Diego.  The flood tide took us swiftly in, and we came-to opposite our hide-house, and prepared to get everything in trim for a long stay.  This was our last port.  Here we were to discharge everything from the ship, clean her out, smoke her, take in our hides, wood, and water, and set sail for Boston.  While all this was doing, we were to lie still in one place, the port a safe one, and no fear of southeasters.  Accordingly, having picked out a good berth in the stream, with a smooth beach opposite for a landing-place, and within two cables' length of our hide-house, we moored ship, unbent the sails, sent down the top-gallant-yards and the studding-sail booms, and housed the top-gallant-masts.  The boats were then hove out and all the sails, the spare spars, the stores, the rigging not rove, and, in fact, everything which was not in daily use, sent ashore, and stowed away in the house.  Then went our hides and horns, and we left hardly anything in the ship but her ballast, and this we made preparations to heave out the next day.  At night, after we had knocked off, and were sitting round in the forecastle, smoking and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:talking, and taking sailor's pleasure, we congratulated ourselves upon being in that situation in which we had wished ourselves every time we had come into San Diego.  "If we were only here for the last time," we had often said, "with our top-gallant-masts housed and our sails unbent!"--and now we had our wish.  Six weeks, or two months, of the hardest work we had yet seen, but not the most disagreeable or trying, was before us, and then--"Good by to California!"</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>WE turned-in early, knowing that we might expect an early call; and sure enough, before the stars had quite faded, "All hands ahoy!" and we were turned-to, heaving out ballast.  A regulation of the port forbids any ballast to be thrown overboard; accordingly, our long-boat was lined inside with rough boards and brought alongside the gangway, but where one tubful went into the boat twenty went overboard.  This is done by every vessel, as it saves more than a week of labor, which would be spent in loading the boats, rowing them to the point, and unloading them.  When any people from the presidio were on board, the boat was hauled up and the ballast thrown in; but when the coast was clear, she was dropped astern again, and the ballast fell overboard.  This is one of those petty frauds which many vessels practise in ports of inferior foreign nations, and which are lost sight of among the deeds of greater weight which are hardly less common.  Fortunately, a sailor, not being a free agent in work aboard ship, is not accountable; yet the fact of being constantly employed, without thought, in such things, begets an indifference to the rights of others.</p><P>Friday, and a part of Saturday, we were engaged in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:this work, until we had thrown out all but what we wanted under our cargo on the passage home; when, as the next day was Sunday, and a good day for smoking ship, we cleared everything out of the cabin and forecastle, made a slow fire of charcoal, birch bark, brimstone, and other matters, on the ballast in the bottom of the hold, calked up the hatches and every open seam, and pasted over the cracks of the windows, and the slides of the scuttles and companion-way.  Wherever smoke was seen coming out, we calked and pasted and, so far as we could, made the ship smoke tight.  The captain and officers slept under the awning which was spread over the quarter-deck; and we stowed ourselves away under an old studding-sail, which we drew over one side of the forecastle.  The next day, from fear that something might happen in the way of fire, orders were given for no one to leave the ship, and, as the decks were lumbered up, we could not wash them down, so we had nothing to do all day long.  Unfortunately, our books were where we could not get at them, and we were turning about for something to do, when one man recollected a book he had left in the galley.  He went after it, and it proved to be Woodstock.  This was a great windfall, and as all could not read it at once, I, being the scholar of the company, was appointed reader.  I got a knot of six or eight about me, and no one could have had a more attentive audience.  Some laughed at the "scholars," and went over the other side of the forecastle to work and spin their yarns; but I carried the day, and had the cream of the crew for my hearers.  Many of the reflections, and the political parts, I omitted, but all the narrative they were delighted with; especially the descriptions of the Puritans, and the sermons and harangues of the Round-head soldiers.  The gallantry of Charles, Dr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Radcliffe's plots, the knavery of "trusty Tompkins,"--in fact, every part seemed to chain their attention.  Many things which, while I was reading, I had a misgiving about, thinking them above their tastes, I was surprised to find them enter into completely.</p><P>I read nearly all day, until sundown; when, as soon as supper was over, as I had nearly finished, they got a light from the galley; and, by skipping what was less interesting, I carried them through to the marriage of Everard, and the restoration of Charles the Second, before eight o'clock.</p><P>The next morning, we took the battens from the hatches, and opened the ship.  A few stifled rats were found; and what bugs, cockroaches, fleas, and other vermin there might have been on board must have unrove their life-lines before the hatches were opened.  The ship being now ready, we covered the bottom of the hold over, fore and aft, with dried brush for dunnage, and, having levelled everything away, we were ready to take in our cargo.  All the hides that had been collected since the California left the coast (a little more than two years), amounting to about forty thousand, had been cured, dried, and stowed away in the house, waiting for our good ship to take them to Boston.</p><P>Now began the operation of taking in our cargo, which kept us hard at work, from the gray of the morning till starlight, for six weeks, with the exception of Sundays, and of just time to swallow our meals.  To carry the work on quicker, a division of labor was made.  Two men threw the hides down from the piles in the house, two more picked them up and put them on a long horizontal pole, raised a few feet from the ground, where they were beaten by two more with flails, somewhat like those used in threshing wheat.  When beaten, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:were taken from this pole by two more, and placed upon a platform of boards; and ten or a dozen men, with their trousers rolled up, and hides upon their heads, were constantly going back and forth from the platform to the boat, which was kept off where she would just float.  The throwing the hides upon the pole was the most difficult work, and required a sleight of hand which was only to be got by long practice.  As I was known for a hide-curer, this post was assigned to me, and I continued at it for six or eight days, tossing, in that time, from eight to ten thousand hides, until my wrists became so lame that I gave in, and was transferred to the gang that was employed in filling the boats, where I remained for the rest of the time.  As we were obliged to carry the hides on our heads from fear of their getting wet, we each had a piece of sheepskin sewed into the inside of our hats, with the wool next our heads, and thus were able to bear the weight, day after day, which might otherwise have worn off our hair, and borne hard upon our skulls.  Upon the whole ours was the best berth, for though the water was nipping cold, early in the morning and late at night, and being so continually wet was rather an exposure, yet we got rid of the constant dust and dirt from the beating of the hides, and, being all of us young and hearty, did not mind the exposure.  The older men of the crew, whom it would have been imprudent to keep in the water, remained on board with the mate, to stow the hides away, as fast as they were brought off by the boats.</p><P>We continued at work in this manner until the lower hold was filled to within four feet of the beams, when all hands were called aboard to begin <HI REND="italics">steeving</HI>
139.sgm:.  As this is a peculiar operation, it will require a minute description.</p><P>Before stowing the hides, as I have said, the ballast is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:levelled off, just above the keelson, and then loose dunnage is placed upon it, on which the hides rest.  The greatest care is used in stowing, to make the ship hold as many hides as possible.  It is no mean art, and a man skilled in it is an important character in California.  Many a dispute have I heard raging high between professed "beach-combers," as to whether the hides should be stowed "shingling," or "back-to-back and flipper-to-flipper"; upon which point there was an entire and bitter division of sentiment among the <HI REND="italics">savans</HI>
139.sgm:.  We adopted each method at different periods of the stowing, and parties ran high in the forecastle, some siding with "old Bill" in favor of the former, and others scouting him and relying upon "English Bob" of the Ayacucho, who had been eight years in California, and was willing to risk his life and limb for the latter method.  At length a compromise was effected, and a middle course of shifting the ends and backs at every lay was adopted, which worked well, and which each party granted was better than that of the other, though inferior to its own.</p><P>Having filled the ship up, in this way, to within four feet of her beams, the process of steeving began, by which a hundred hides are got into a place where scarce one could be forced by hand, and which presses the hides to the utmost, sometimes starting the beams of the ship, --resembling in its effects the jack-screws which are used in stowing cotton.  Each morning we went ashore, and beat and brought off as many hides as we could steeve in a day, and, after breakfast, went down into the hold, where we remained at work until night, except a short spell for dinner.  The length of the hold, from stem to stern, was floored off level; and we began with raising a pile in the after part, hard against the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:bulkhead of the run, and filling it up to the beams, crowding in as many as we could by hand and pushing in with oars, when a large "book" was made of from twenty-five to fifty hides, doubled at the backs, and placed one within another, so as to leave but one outside hide for the book.  An opening was then made between two hides in the pile, and the back of the outside hide of the book inserted.  Above and below this book were placed smooth strips of wood, well greased, called "ways," to facilitate the sliding in of the book.  Two long, heavy spars, called steeves, made of the strongest wood, and sharpened off like a wedge at one end, were placed with their wedge ends into the inside of the hide which was the centre of the book, and to the other end of each straps were fitted, into which large tackles<ANCHOR ID="n29-1">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: were hooked, composed each of two huge purchase blocks, one hooked to the strap on the end of the steeve, and the other into a dog, fastened into one of the beams, as far aft as it could be got.  When this was arranged, and the ways greased upon which the book was to slide, the falls of the tackles were stretched forward, and all hands tallied on, and bowsed away upon them until the book was well entered, when these tackles were nippered, straps and toggles clapped upon the falls, and two more luff tackles hooked on, with dogs, in the same manner; and thus, by luff upon luff, the power was multiplied, until into a pile in which one hide more could not be crowded by hand a hundred or a hundred and fifty were often driven by this complication of purchases.  When the last luff was hooked on, all hands were called to the rope, --cook, steward, and all, --and ranging ourselves at the falls, one behind the other, sitting down on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:hides, with our heads just even with the beams, we set taut upon the tackles, and striking up a song, and all lying back at the chorus, we bowsed the tackles home, and drove the large books chock in out of sight.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-1">This word, when used to signify a pulley or purchase formed by blocks and a rope, is always by seamen pronounced <HI REND="italics">ta&die;-kl</HI>
139.sgm:<P>The sailor's songs for capstans and falls are of a peculiar kind, having a chorus at the end of each line.  The burden is usually sung by one alone, and, at the chorus, all hands join in, --and, the louder the noise, the better.  With us, the chorus seemed almost to raise the decks of the ship, and might be heard at a great distance ashore.  A song is as necessary to sailors as the drum and fife to a soldier.  They must pull together as soldiers must step in time, and they can't pull in time, or pull with a will, without it.  Many a time, when a thing goes heavy, with one fellow yo-ho-ing, a lively song, like "Heave, to the girls!"  "Nancy O!"  "Jack Crosstree,"  "Cheerly, men," &amp;c., has put life and strength into every arm.  We found a great difference in the effect of the various songs in driving in the hides.  Two or three songs would be tried, one after the other, with no effect, --not an inch could be got upon the tackles; when a new song, struck up, seemed to hit the humor of the moment, and drove the tackles "two blocks" at once.  "Heave round hearty!"  "Captain gone ashore!"  "Dandy ship and a dandy crew," and the like, might do for common pulls, but on an emergency, when we wanted a heavy, "raise-the-dead pull," which should start the beams of the ship, there was nothing like "Time for us to go!"  "Round the corner,"  "Tally high ho! you know," or "Hurrah! hurrah! my hearty bullies!"</p><P>This was the most lively part of our work.  A little boating and beach work in the morning; then twenty or thirty men down in a close hold, where we were obliged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:to sit down and slide about, passing hides, and rowsing about the great steeves, tackles, and dogs, singing out at the falls, and seeing the ship filling up every day.  The work was as hard as it could well be.  There was not a moment's cessation from Monday morning till Saturday night, when we were generally beaten out, and glad to have a full night's rest, a wash and shift of clothes, and a quiet Sunday.  During all this time--which would have startled Dr. Graham--we lived upon almost nothing but fresh beef; fried beefsteaks, three times a day, --morning, noon, and night.  At morning and night we had a quart of tea to each man, and an allowance of about a pound of hard bread a day; but our chief article of food was beef.  A mess, consisting of six men, had a large wooden kid piled up with beefsteaks, cut thick, and fried in fat, with the grease poured over them.  Round this we sat, attacking it with our jack-knives and teeth, and with the appetite of young lions, and sent back an empty kid to the galley.  This was done three times a day.  How many pounds each man ate in a day I will not attempt to compute.  A whole bullock (we ate liver and all) lasted us but four days.  Such devouring of flesh, I will venture to say, is not often seen.  What one man ate in a day, over a hearty man's allowance, would make an English peasant's heart leap into his mouth.  Indeed, during all the time we were upon the coast, our principal food was fresh beef, and every man had perfect health; but this was a time of especial devouring, and what we should have done without meat I cannot tell.  Once or twice, when our bullocks failed, and we were obliged to make a meal upon dry bread and water, it seemed like feeding upon shavings.  Light and dry, feeling unsatisfied, and, at the same time, full, we were glad to see four quarters of a bullock, just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:killed, swinging from the fore-top.  Whatever theories may be started by sedentary men, certainly no men could have gone through more hard work and exposure for sixteen months in more perfect health, and without ailings and failings, than our ship's crew, let them have lived upon Hygeia's own baking and dressing.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, April 15th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Arrived, brig Pilgrim, from the windward.  It was a sad sight for her crew to see us getting ready to go off the coast, while they, who had been longer on the coast than the Alert, were condemned to another year's hard service.  I spent an evening on board, and found them making the best of the matter, and determined to rough it out as they might.  But Stimson, after considerable negotiating and working, had succeeded in persuading my English friend, Tom Harris, --my companion in the anchor watch, --for thirty dollars, some clothes, and an intimation from Captain Faucon that he should want a second mate before the voyage was over, to take his place in the brig as soon as she was ready to go up to windward.</p><P>The first opportunity I could get to speak to Captain Faucon, I asked him to step up to the oven and look at Hope, whom he knew well, having had him on board his vessel.  He went to see him at once, and said that he was doing pretty well, but there was so little medicine on board the brig, and she would be so long on the coast, that he could spare none for him, but that Captain Arthur would take care of him when he came down in the California, which would be in a week or more.  I had been to see Hope the first night after we got into San Diego this last time, and had frequently since spent the early part of a night in the oven.  I hardly expected, when I left him to go to windward, to find him alive upon my return.  He was certainly as low as he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:could well be when I left him, and what would be the effect of the medicines that I gave him I hardly then dared to conjecture.  Yet I knew that he must die without them.  I was not a little rejoiced, therefore, and relieved, upon our return, to see him decidedly better.  The medicines were strong, and took hold and gave a check to the disorder which was destroying him; and, more than that, they had begun the work of exterminating it.  I shall never forget the gratitude that he expressed.  All the Kanakas attributed his escape solely to my knowledge, and would not be persuaded that I had not all the secrets of the physical system open to me and under my control.  My medicines, however, were gone, and no more could be got from the ship, so that his life was left to hang upon the arrival of the California.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, April 24th</HI>
139.sgm:.  We had now been nearly seven weeks in San Diego, and had taken in the greater part of our cargo, and were looking out every day for the arrival of the California, which had our agent on board; when, this afternoon, some Kanakas, who had been over the hill for rabbits and to fight rattlesnakes, came running down the path, singing out "Kail ho!" with all their might.  Mr. Hatch, our third mate, was ashore, and, asking them particularly about the size of the sail, &amp;c., and learning that it was " <HI REND="italics">Moku--Nui Moku</HI>
139.sgm:," hailed our ship, and said that the California was on the other side of the point.  Instantly all hands were turned up, the bow guns run out and loaded, the ensign and broad pennant set, the yards squared by lifts and braces, and everything got ready to make a fair appearance.  The instant she showed her nose round the point we began our salute.  She came in under top-gallant-sails, clewed up and furled her sails in good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:order, and came-to within swinging distance of us.  It being Sunday, and nothing to do, all hands were on the forecastle, criticising the new comer.  She was a good, substantial ship, not quite so long as the Alert, wall-sided and kettle-bottomed, after the latest fashion of south-shore cotton and sugar wagons; strong, too, and tight, and a good average sailer, but with no pretensions to beauty, and nothing in the style of a "crack ship."  Upon the whole, we were perfectly satisfied that the Alert might hold up her head with a ship twice as smart as she.</p><P>At night some of us got a boat and went on board, and found a large, roomy forecastle (for she was squarer forward than the Alert), and a crew of a dozen or fifteen men and boys sitting around on their chests, smoking and talking, and ready to give a welcome to any of our ship's company.  It was just seven months since they left Boston, which seemed but yesterday to us.  Accordingly, we had much to ask; for though we had seen the newspapers which she had brought, yet these were the very men who had been in Boston, and seen everything with their own eyes.  One of the green hands was a Boston boy, from one of the public schools, and, of course, knew many things which we wished to ask about, and, on inquiring the names of our two Boston boys, found that they had been school-mates of his.  Our men had hundreds of questions to ask about Ann Street, the boarding-houses, the ships in port, the rate of wages, and other matters.</p><P>Among her crew were two English man-of-war's-men, so that, of course, we soon had music.  They sang in the true sailor's style, and the rest of the crew, which was a remarkably musical one, joined in the choruses.  They had many of the latest sailor songs, which had not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:yet got about among our merchantmen, and which they were very choice of.  They began soon after we came on board, and kept it up until after two bells, when the second mate came forward and called "the Alerts away!"  Battle-songs, drinking-songs, boat-songs, love-songs, and everything else, they seemed to have a complete assortment of, and I was glad to find that "All in the Downs," "Poor Tom Bowline," "The Bay of Biscay," "List, ye Landsmen!" and other classical songs of the sea, still held their places.  In addition to these, they had picked up at the theatres and other places a few songs of a little more genteel cast, which they were very proud of; and I shall never forget hearing an old salt, who had broken his voice by hard drinking on shore, and bellowing from the mast-head in a hundred northwesters, singing--with all manner of ungovernable trills and quavers, in the high notes breaking into a rough falsetto, and in the low ones growling along like the dying away of the boatswain's "All hands ahoy!" down the hatchway--"O no, we never mention him." <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Perhaps, like me, he struggles with<LB>Each feeling of regret;<LB>But if he's loved as I have loved,<LB>He never can forget!"</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>The last line he roared out at the top of his voice, breaking each word into half a dozen syllables.  This was very popular, and Jack was called upon every night to give them his "sentimental song."  No one called for it more loudly than I, for the complete absurdity of the execution, and the sailors' perfect satisfaction in it, were ludicrous beyond measure.</p><P>The next day the California began unloading her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:cargo; and her boats' crews, in coming and going, sang their boat-songs, keeping time with their oars.  This they did all day long for several days, until their hides were all discharged, when a gang of them were sent on board the Alert to help us steeve our hides.  This was a windfall for us, for they had a set of new songs for the capstan and fall, and ours had got nearly worn out by six weeks' constant use.  I have no doubt that this timely re-enforcement of songs hastened our work several days.</p><P>Our cargo was now nearly all taken in, and my old friend, the Pilgrim, having completed her discharge, un-moored, to set sail the next morning on another long trip to windward.  I was just thinking of her hard lot, and congratulating myself upon my escape from her, when I received a summons into the cabin.  I went aft, and there found, seated round the cabin table, my own captain, Captain Faucon of the Pilgrim, and Mr. Robinson, the agent.  Captain Thompson turned to me and asked abruptly, --</p><P>"Dana, do you want to go home in the ship?"</p><P>"Certainly, sir," said I; "I expect to go home in the ship."</p><P>"Then," said he, "you must get some one to go in your place on board the Pilgrim."</p><P>I was so completely "taken aback" by this sudden intimation that for a moment I could make no reply.  I thought it would be hopeless to attempt to prevail upon any of the ship's crew to take twelve months more upon California in the brig.  I knew, too, that Captain Thompson had received orders to bring me home in the Alert, and he had told me, when I was at the hide-house, that I was to go home in her; and even if this had not been so, it was cruel to give me no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:notice of the step they were going to take, until a few hours before the brig would sail.  As soon as I had got my wits about me, I put on a bold front, and told him plainly that I had a letter in my chest informing me that he had been written to by the owners in Boston to bring me home in the ship; and, moreover, that he had told me that he had such instructions, and that I was to return in the ship.</p><P>To have this told him, and to be opposed in such a manner, was more than my lord paramount had been used to.  He turned fiercely upon me, and tried to look me down, and face me out of my statement; but finding that that wouldn't do, and that I was entering upon my defence in such a way as would show to the other two that he was in the wrong, he changed his ground, and pointed to the shipping-papers of the Pilgrim, from which my name had never been erased, and said that there was my name, --that I belonged to her, --that he had an absolute discretionary power, --and, in short, that I must be on board the Pilgrim by the next morning with my chest and hammock, or have some one ready to go in my place, and that he would not hear another word from me.  No court of star chamber could proceed more summarily with a poor devil than this trio was about to do with me; condemning me to a punishment worse than a Botany Bay exile, and to a fate which might alter the whole current of my future life; for two years more in California might have made me a sailor for the rest of my days.  I felt all this, and saw the necessity of being determined.  I repeated what I had said, and insisted upon my right to return in the ship.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I raised my arm, and tauld my crack,<LB>Before them a'"</HI>
139.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>But it would have all availed me nothing had I been "some poor body" before this absolute, domineering tribunal.  But they saw that I would not go, unless "vi et armis," and they knew that I had friends and interest enough at home to make them suffer for any injustice they might do me.  It was probably this that turned the scale; for the captain changed his tone entirely, and asked me if, in case any one went in my place, I would give him the same sum that Stimson gave Harris to exchange with him.  I told them that if any one was sent on board the brig I should pity him, and be willing to help him to that, or almost any amount; but would not speak of it as an exchange.</p><P>"Very well," said he.  "Go forward about your business, and send English Ben here to me!"</p><P>I went forward with a light heart, but feeling as much anger and contempt as I could well contain between my teeth.  English Ben was sent aft, and in a few moments came forward, looking as though he had received his sentence to be hanged.  The captain had told him to get his things ready to go on board the brig next morning; and that I would give him thirty dollars and a suit of clothes.  The hands had "knocked off" for dinner, and were standing about the forecastle, when Ben came forward and told his story.  I could see plainly that it made a great excitement, and that, unless I explained the matter to them, the feeling would be turned against me.  Ben was a poor English boy, a stranger in Boston, and without friends or money; and, being an active, willing lad, and a good sailor for his years, was a general favorite.  "O yes!" said the crew; "the captain has let you off because you are a gentleman's son, and taken Ben because he is poor, and has got nobody to say a word for him."  I knew that this was too true to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:answered, but I excused myself from any blame, and told them that I had a right to go home, at all events.  This pacified them a little, but Jack had got a notion that a poor lad was to be imposed upon, and did not distinguish very clearly; and though I knew that I was in no fault, and, in fact, had barely escaped the grossest injustice, yet I felt that my berth was getting to be a disagreeable one.  The notion that I was not "one of them," which, by a participation in all their labor and hardships, and having no favor shown me, and never asserting myself among them, had been laid asleep, was beginning to revive.  But far stronger than any feeling for myself was the pity I felt for the poor lad.  He had depended upon going home in the ship; and from Boston was going immediately to Liverpool, to see his friends.  Besides this, having begun the voyage with very few clothes, he had taken up the greater part of his wages in the slop-chest, and it was every day a losing concern to him; and, like all the rest of the crew, he had a hearty hatred of California, and the prospect of eighteen months or two years more of hide droghing seemed completely to break down his spirit.  I had determined not to go myself, happen what would, and I knew that the captain would not dare to attempt to force me.  I knew, too, that the two captains had agreed together to get some one, and that unless I could prevail upon somebody to go voluntarily, there would be no help for Ben.  From this consideration, though I had said that I would have nothing to do with an exchange, I did my best to get some one to go voluntarily.  I offered to give an order upon the owners in Boston for six months' wages, and also all the clothes, books, and other matters which I should not want upon the voyage home.  When this offer was published in the ship, and the case <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of poor Ben set forth in strong colors, several, who would not dream of going themselves, were busy in talking it up to others, who, they thought, might be tempted to accept it; and, at length, a Boston boy, a harumscarum lad, a great favorite, Harry May, whom we called Harry Bluff, and who did not care what country or ship he was in, if he had clothes enough and money enough, --partly from pity for Ben, and partly from the thought he should have "cruising money" for the rest of his stay, --came forward, and offered to go and "sling his hammock in the bloody hooker."  Lest his purpose should cool, I signed an order for the sum upon the owners in Boston, gave him all the clothes I could spare, and sent him aft to the captain, to let him know what had been done.  The skipper accepted the exchange, and was, doubtless, glad to have it pass off so easily.  At the same time he cashed the order, which was indorsed to him,<ANCHOR ID="n29-2">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: and the next morning the lad went aboard the brig, apparently in good spirits, having shaken hands with each of us and wished us a pleasant passage home, jingling the money in his pockets, and calling out "Never say die, while there's a shot in the locker."  The same boat carried off Harris, my old watchmate, who had previously made an exchange with my friend Stimson.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-2">When our crew were paid off in Boston, the owners answered the orders of Stimson and me, but refused to deduct the amount from the pay-roll, saying that the exchanges were made under compulsion.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>I was sorry to part with Harris.  Nearly two hundred hours (as we had calculated it) had we walked the ship's deck together, at anchor watch, when all hands were below, and talked over and over every subject which came within the ken of either of us.  He gave me a strong gripe with his hand; and I told him, if he came to Boston, not to fail to find me out, and let me see my old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:watchmate.  The same boat brought on board Stimson, who had begun the voyage with me from Boston, and, like me, was going back to his family and to the society in which he had been born and brought up.  We congratulated each other upon finding what we had long talked over and wished for thus brought about; and none on board the ship were more glad than ourselves to see the old brig standing round the point, under full sail.  As she passed abreast of us, we all collected in the waist, and gave her three loud, hearty cheers, waving our hats in the air.  Her crew sprang into the rigging and chains, and answered us with three as loud, to which we, after the nautical custom, gave one in return.  I took my last look of their familiar faces as they passed over the rail, and saw the old black cook put his head out of the galley, and wave his cap over his head.  Her crew flew aloft to loose the top-gallant-sails and royals; the two captains waved their hands to each other; and, in ten minutes, we saw the last inch of her white canvas, as she rounded the point.</p><P>Relieved as I was to see her well off (and I felt like one who had just sprung from an iron trap which was closing upon him), I had yet a feeling of regret at taking the last look at the old craft in which I had spent a year, and the first year, of my sailor's life, which had been my first home in the new world into which I had entered, and with which I had associated so many events, --my first leaving home, my first crossing the equator, Cape Horn, Juan Fernandez, death at sea, and other things, serious and common.  Yet, with all this, and the sentiment I had for my old shipmates condemned to another term of California life, the thought that we were done with it, and that one week more would see us on our way to Boston, was a cure for everything.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Friday, May 6th</HI>
139.sgm:, completed the getting in of our cargo, and was a memorable day in our calendar.  The time when we were to take in our last hide we had looked forward to, for sixteen months, as the first bright spot.  When the last hide was stowed away, the hatches calked down, the tarpaulins battened on to them, the long-boat hoisted in and secured, and the decks swept down for the night, --the chief mate sprang upon the top of the long-boat, called all hands into the waist, and, giving us a signal by swinging his cap over his head, we gave three long, loud cheers, which came from the bottom of our hearts, and made the hills and valleys ring again.  In a moment we heard three in answer from the California's crew, who had seen us taking in our long-boat; "the cry they heard, --its meaning knew."</p><P>The last week we had been occupied in taking in a supply of wood and water for the passage home, and in bringing on board the spare spars, sails, &amp;c.  I was sent off with a party of Indians to fill the water-casks, at a spring about three miles from the shipping and near the town, and was absent three days, living at the town, and spending the daytime in filling the casks and transporting them on ox-carts to the landing-place, whence they were taken on board by the crew with boats.  This being all done with, we gave one day to bending our sails, and at night every sail, from the courses to the skysails, was bent, and every studding-sail ready for setting.</p><P>Before our sailing an unsuccessful attempt was made by one of the crew of the California to effect an exchange with one of our number.  It was a lad, between fifteen and sixteen years of age, who went by the name of the "reefer," having been a midshipman in an East India <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Company's ship.  His singular character and story had excited our interest ever since the ship came into the port.  He was a delicate, slender little fellow, with a beautiful pearly complexion, regular features; forehead as white as marble, black hair curling beautifully round it; tapering, delicate fingers; small feet, soft voice, gentle manners, and, in fact, every sign of having been well born and bred.  At the same time there was something in his expression which showed a slight deficiency of intellect.  How great the deficiency was, or what it resulted from; whether he was born so; whether it was the result of disease or accident; or whether, as some said, it was brought on by his distress of mind during the voyage, --I cannot say.  From his account of himself, and from many circumstances which were known in connection with his story, he must have been the son of a man of wealth.  His mother was an Italian.  He was probably a natural son, for in scarcely any other way could the incidents of his early life be accounted for.  He said that his parents did not live together, and he seemed to have been ill treated by his father.  Though he had been delicately brought up, and indulged in every way (and he had then with him trinkets which had been given him at home), yet his education had been sadly neglected; and when only twelve years old, he was sent as midshipman in the Company's service.  His own story was, that he afterwards ran away from home, upon a difficulty which he had with his father, and went to Liverpool, whence he sailed in the ship Rialto, Captain Holmes, for Boston.  Captain Holmes endeavored to get him a passage back, but, there being no vessel to sail for some time, the boy left him, and went to board at a common sailor's boarding-house in Ann Street, where he supported himself for a few weeks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:by selling some of his valuables.  At length, according to his own account, being desirous of returning home, he went to a shipping-office, where the shipping articles of the California were open.  Upon asking where the ship was going, he was told by the shipping-master that she was bound to California.  Not knowing where that was, he told him that he wanted to go to Europe, and asked if California was in Europe.  The shipping-master answered him in a way which the boy did not understand, and advised him to ship.  The boy signed the articles, received his advance, laid out a little of it in clothes, and spent the rest, and was ready to go on board, when, upon the morning of sailing, he heard that the ship was bound upon the Northwest Coast, on a two or three years' voyage, and was not going to Europe.  Frightened at this prospect, he slipped away when the crew were going aboard, wandered up into another part of the town, and spent all the forenoon in straying about the Common, and the neighboring streets.  Having no money, and all his clothes and other things being in his chest on board, and being a stranger, he became tired and hungry, and ventured down toward the shipping, to see if the vessel had sailed.  He was just turning the corner of a street, when the shipping-master, who had been in search of him, popped upon him, seized him, and carried him on board.  He cried and struggled, and said he did not wish to go in the ship; but the topsails were at the mast-head, the fasts just ready to be cast off, and everything in the hurry and confusion of departure, so that he was hardly noticed; and the few who did inquire about the matter were told that it was merely a boy who had spent his advance and tried to run away.  Had the owners of the vessel known anything of the matter, they would doubtless have interfered; but they either <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:knew nothing of it, or heard, like the rest, that it was only an unruly boy who was sick of his bargain.  As soon as the boy found himself actually at sea, and upon a voyage of two or three years in length, his spirits failed him; he refused to work, and became so miserable that Captain Arthur took him into the cabin, where he assisted the steward, and occasionally pulled and hauled about decks.  He was in this capacity when we saw him; and though it was much better for him than the life in a forecastle, and the hard work, watching, and exposure, which his delicate frame could not have borne, yet, to be joined with a black fellow in waiting upon a man whom he probably looked upon as but little, in point of education and manners, above one of his father's servants, was almost too much for his spirit to bear.  Had he entered upon this situation of his own free will, he could have endured it; but to have been deceived, and, in addition to that, forced into it, was intolerable.  He made every effort to go home in our ship, but his captain refused to part with him except in the way of exchange, and that he could not effect.  If this account of the whole matter, which we had from the boy, and which was confirmed by the crew, be correct, I cannot understand why Captain Arthur should have refused to let him go, especially as he had the name, not only with that crew, but with all he had ever commanded, of an unusually kind-hearted man.  The truth is, the unlimited power which merchant captains have upon long voyages on strange coasts takes away the sense of responsibility, and too often, even in men otherwise well disposed, gives growth to a disregard for the rights and feelings of others.  The lad was sent on shore to join the gang at the hide-house, from whence, I was afterwards rejoiced to hear, he effected his escape, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and went down to Callo in a small Spanish schooner; and from Callao he probably returned to England.</p><P>Soon after the arrival of the California, I spoke to Captain Arthur about Hope, the Kanaka; and as he had known him on the voyage before, and liked him, he immediately went to see him, gave him proper medicines, and, under such care, he began rapidly to recover.  The Saturday night before our sailing I spent an hour in the oven, and took leave of my Kanaka friends; and, really, this was the only thing connected with leaving California which was in any way unpleasant.  I felt an interest and affection for many of these simple, true-hearted men, such as I never felt before but for a near relation.  Hope shook me by the hand; said he should soon be well again, and ready to work for me when I came upon the coast, next voyage, as officer of the ship; and told me not to forget, when I became captain, how to be kind to the sick.  Old "Mr. Bingham" and "King Mannini" went down to the boat with me, shook me heartily by the hand, wished us a good voyage, and went back to the oven, chanting one of their deep, monotonous, improvised songs, the burden of which I gathered to be about us and our voyage.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, May 8th, 1836</HI>
139.sgm:.  This promised to be our last day in California.  Our forty thousand hides and thirty thousand horns, besides several barrels of otter and beaver skins, were all stowed below, and the hatches calked down.<ANCHOR ID="n29-3">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: All our spare spars were taken on board and lashed, our water-casks secured, and our live stock, consisting of four bullocks, a dozen sheep, a dozen or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:more pigs, and three or four dozens of poultry, were all stowed away in their different quarters; the bullocks in the long-boat, the sheep in a pen on the fore hatch, the pigs in a sty under the bows of the long-boat, and the poultry in their proper coop, and the jolly-boat was full of hay for the sheep and bullocks.  Our unusually large cargo, together with the stores for a five months' voyage, brought the ship channels down into the water.  In addition to this, she had been steeved so thoroughly, and was so bound by the compression of her cargo, forced into her by machinery so powerful, that she was like a man in a strait-jacket, and would be but a dull sailer until she had worked herself loose.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-3">We had also a small quantity of gold dust, which Mexicans or Indians had brought down to us from the interior.  It was not uncommon for our ships to bring a little, as I have since learned from the owners.  I heard rumors of gold discoveries, but they attracted little or no attention, and were not followed up.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>The California had finished discharging her cargo, and was to get under way at the same time with us.  Having washed down decks and got breakfast, the two vessels lay side by side, in complete readiness for sea, our ensigns hanging from the peaks, and our tall spars reflected from the glassy surface of the river, which, since sunrise, had been unbroken by a ripple.  At length a few whiffs came across the water, and, by eleven o'clock the regular northwest wind set steadily in.  There was no need of calling all hands, for we had all been hanging about the forecastle the whole forenoon, and were ready for a start upon the first sign of a breeze.  Often we turned our eyes aft upon the captain, who was walking the deck, with every now and then a look to windward.  He made a sign to the mate, who came forward, took his station deliberately between the knight-heads, cast a glance aloft, and called out "All hands, lay aloft and loose the sails!"  We were half in the rigging before the order came, and never since we left Boston were the gaskets off the yards, and the rigging overhauled, in a shorter time.  "All ready forward, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:sir!"--All ready the main!"--"Cross-jack yards all ready, sir!"--"Lay down, all hands but one on each yard!"  The yard-arm and bunt gaskets were cast off; and each sail hung by the jigger, with one man standing by the tie to let it go.  At the same moment that we sprang aloft, a dozen hands sprang into the rigging of the California, and in an instant were all over her yards; and her sails, too, were ready to be dropped at the word.  In the mean time our bow gun had been loaded and run out, and its discharge was to be the signal for dropping the sails.  A cloud of smoke came out of our bows; the echoes of the gun rattled our farewell among the hills of California, and the two ships were covered, from head to foot, with their white canvas.  For a few minutes all was uproar and apparent confusion; men jumping about like monkeys in the rigging; ropes and blocks flying, orders given and answered amid the confused noises of men singing out at the ropes.  The topsails came to the mast-heads with "Cheerly, men!" and, in a few minutes, every sail was set, for the wind was light.  The head sails were backed, the windlass came round "slip--slap" to the cry of the sailors; --"Hove short, sir," said the mate; --"Up with him!"--"Aye, aye, sir."  A few hearty and long heaves, and the anchor showed its head.  "Hook cat!"  The fall was stretched along the decks; all hands laid hold; --"Hurrah, for the last time," said the mate; and the anchor came to the cat-head to the tune of "Time for us to go," with a rollicking chorus.  Everything was done quick, as though it <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
139.sgm: for the last time.  The head yards were filled away, and our ship began to move through the water on her homeward-bound course.</p><P>The California had got under way at the same moment, and we sailed down the narrow bay abreast, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:were just off the mouth, and, gradually drawing ahead of her, were on the point of giving her three parting cheers, when suddenly we found ourselves stopped short, and the California ranging fast ahead of us.  A bar stretches across the mouth of the harbor, with water enough to float common vessels, but, being low in the water, and having kept well to leeward, as we were bound to the southward, we had stuck fast, while the California, being light, had floated over.</p><P>We kept all sail on, in the hope of forcing over, but, failing in this, we hove aback, and lay waiting for the tide, which was on the flood, to take us back into the channel.  This was something of a damper to us, and the captain looked not a little mortified and vexed.  "This is the same place where the Rosa got ashore, sir," observed our red-headed second mate, most <HI REND="italics">mala&acute;propos</HI>
139.sgm:.  A malediction on the Rosa, and him too, was all the answer he got, and he slunk off to leeward.  In a few minutes the force of the wind and the rising of the tide backed us into the stream, and we were on our way to our old anchoring-place, the tide setting swiftly up, and the ship barely manageable in the light breeze.  We came-to in our old berth opposite the hide-house, whose inmates were not a little surprised to see us return.  We felt as though we were tied to California; and some of the crew swore that they never should get clear of the <HI REND="italics">bloody</HI>
139.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n29-4">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: coast.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-4">This is a common expletive among sailors, and suits any purpose.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>In about half an hour, which was near high water, the order was given to man the windlass, and again the anchor was catted; but there was no song, and not a word was said about the last time.  The California had come back on finding that we had returned, and was hove-to, waiting for us, off the point.  This time we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FURLING THE FORE ROYAL</p></CAPTION>
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139.sgm:passed the bar safely, and were soon up with the California, who filled away, and kept us company.  She seemed desirous of a trial of speed, and our captain accepted the challenge, although we were loaded down to the bolts of our chain-plates, as deep as a sand-barge, and bound so taut with our cargo that we were no more fit for a race than a man in fetters; while our antagonist was in her best trim.  Being clear of the point, the breeze became stiff, and the royal-masts bent under our sails, but we would not take them in until we saw three boys spring aloft into the rigging of the California; when they were all furled at once, but with orders to our boys to stay aloft at the top-gallant mast-heads and loose them again at the word.  It was my duty to furl the fore royal; and, while standing by to loose it again, I had a fine view of the scene.  From where I stood, the two vessels seemed nothing but spars and sails, while their narrow decks, far below, slanting over by the force of the wind aloft, appeared hardly capable of supporting the great fabrics raised upon them.  The California was to windward of us, and had every advantage; yet, while the breeze was stiff, we held our own.  As soon as it began to slacken, she ranged a little ahead, and the order was given to loose the royals.  In an instant the gaskets were off and the bunt dropped.  "Sheet home the fore royal!--Weather sheet's home!"--"Lee sheet's home!--"Hoist away, sir!" is bawled from aloft.  "Overhaul your clew-lines!" shouts the mate.  "Aye, aye, sir! all clear!"--"Taut leech! belay!  Well the lee brace; haul taut to windward,"--and the royals are set.  These brought us up again; but, the wind continuing light, the California set hers, and it was soon evident that she was walking away from us.  Our captain then hailed, and said that he should keep off to his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:course; adding, "She is n't the Alert now.  If I had her in your trim she would have been out of sight by this time."  This was good-naturedly answered from the California, and she braced sharp up, and stood close upon the wind up the coast; while we squared away our yards, and stood before the wind to the south-southwest.  The California's crew manned her weather rigging, waved their hats in the air, and gave us three hearty cheers, which we answered as heartily, and the customary single cheer came back to us from over the water.  She stood on her way, doomed to eighteen months' or two years' hard service upon that hated coast, while we were making our way to our home, to which every hour and every mile was bringing us nearer.</p><P>As soon as we parted company with the California, all hands were sent aloft to set the studding-sails.  Booms were rigged out, tacks and halyards rove, sail after sail packed upon her, until every available inch of canvas was spread, that we might not lose a breath of the fair wind.  We could now see how much she was cramped and deadened by her cargo; for with a good breeze on her quarter, and every stitch of canvas spread, we could not get more than six knots out of her.  She had no more life in her than if she were water-logged.  The log was hove several times; but she was doing her best.  We had hardly patience with her, but the older sailors said, "Stand by! you'll see her work herself loose in a week or two, and then she'll walk up to Cape Horn like a race-horse."</p><P>When all sail had been set, and the decks cleared up, the California was a speck in the horizon, and the coast lay like a low cloud along the northeast.  At sunset they were both out of sight, and we were once more upon the ocean, where sky and water meet.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>AT eight o'clock all hands were called aft, and the watches set for the voyage.  Some changes were made; but I was glad to find myself still in the larboard watch.  Our crew was somewhat diminished; for a man and a boy had gone in the Pilgrim; another was second mate of the Ayacucho; and a fourth, Harry Bennett, the oldest man of the crew, had broken down under the hard work and constant exposure on the coast, and, having had a stroke of the palsy, was left behind at the hide-house, under the charge of Captain Arthur.  The poor fellow wished very much to come home in the ship; and he ought to have been brought home in her.  But a live dog is better than a dead lion, and a sick sailor belongs to nobody's mess; so he was sent ashore with the rest of the lumber, which was only in the way.  He had come on board, with his chest, in the morning, and tried to make himself useful about decks; but his shuffling feet and weak arms led him into trouble, and some words were said to him by the mate.  He had the spirit of a man, and had become a little tender, perhaps weakened in mind, and said, "Mr. Brown, I always did my duty aboard until I was sick.  If you don't want me, say so, and I'll go ashore."  "Bring up his chest," said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Mr. Brown, and poor Bennett went down into a boat and was taken ashore, with tears in his eyes.  He loved the ship and the crew, and wished to get home, but could not bear to be treated as a <HI REND="italics">soger</HI>
139.sgm: or loafer on board.  This was the only hard-hearted thing I ever knew Mr. Brown to do.</p><P>By these diminutions, we were short-handed for a voyage round Cape Horn in the dead of winter.  Beside Stimson and myself, there were only five in the forecastle; who, together with four boys in the steerage, the sailmaker, carpenter, cook, and steward, composed the crew.  In addition to this, we were only four days out, when the sailmaker, who was the oldest and best seaman on board, was taken with the palsy, and was useless for the rest of the voyage.  The constant wading in the water, in all weathers, to take off hides, together with the other labors, is too much for men even in middle life, and for any who have not good constitutions.  (Beside these two men of ours, the second officer of the California and the carpenter of the Pilgrim, as we afterwards learned, broke down under the work, and the latter died at Santa Barbara.  The young man, too, Henry Mellus, who came out with us from Boston in the Pilgrim, had to be taken from his berth before the mast and made clerk, on account of a fit of rheumatism which attacked him soon after he came upon the coast.)  By the loss of the sailmaker, our watch was reduced to five, of whom two were boys, who never steered but in fine weather, so that the other two and myself had to stand at the wheel four hours apiece out of every twenty-four; and the other watch had only four helmsmen.  "Never mind, --we're homeward bound!" was the answer to everything; and we should not have minded this, were it not for the thought that we should be off Cape Horn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:in the very dead of winter.  It was now the first part of May; and two months would bring us off the Cape in July, which is the worst month in the year there; when the sun rises at nine and sets at three, giving eighteen hours night, and there is snow and rain, gales and high seas, in abundance.</p><P>The prospect of meeting this in a ship half manned, and loaded so deep that every heavy sea must wash her fore and aft, was by no means pleasant.  The Alert, in her passage out, doubled the Cape in the month of February, which is midsummer; and we came round in the Pilgrim in the latter part of October, which we thought was bad enough.  There was only one of our crew who had been off there in the winter, and that was in a whale-ship, much lighter and higher than our ship; yet he said they had man-killing weather for twenty days without intermission, and their decks were swept twice, and they were all glad enough to see the last of it.  The Brandywine frigate, also, in her recent passage round, had sixty days off the Cape, and lost several boats by the heavy seas.  All this was for our comfort; yet pass it we must; and all hands agreed to make the best of it.</p><P>During our watches below we overhauled our clothes, and made and mended everything for bad weather.  Each of us had made for himself a suit of oil-cloth or tarpaulin, and these we got out, and gave thorough coatings of oil or tar, and hung upon the stays to dry.  Our stout boots, too, we covered over with a thick mixture of melted grease and tar.  Thus we took advantage of the warm sun and fine weather of the Pacific to prepare for its other face.  In the forenoon watches below, our forecastle looked like the workshop of what a sailor is, --a Jack-at-all-trades.  Thick stockings and drawers were darned and patched; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:mittens dragged from the bottom of the chest and mended; comforters made for the neck and ears; old flannel shirts cut up to line monkey-jackets; southwesters were lined with flannel, and a pot of paint smuggled forward to give them a coat on the outside; and everything turned to hand; so that, although two years had left us but a scanty wardrobe, yet the economy and invention which necessity teaches a sailor soon put each of us in pretty good trim for bad weather, before we had seen the last of the fine.  Even the cobber's art was not out of place.  Several old shoes were very decently repaired, and with waxed ends, an awl, and the top of an old boot, I made me quite a respectable sheath for my knife.</p><P>There was one difficulty, however, which nothing that we could do would remedy; and that was the leaking of the forecastle, which made it very uncomfortable in bad weather, and rendered half of the berths tenantless.  The tightest ships, in a long voyage, from the constant strain which is upon the bowsprit, will leak more or less round the heel of the bowsprit and the bitts, which come down into the forecastle; but, in addition to this, we had an unaccountable leak on the starboard bow, near the cat-head, which drove us from the forward berths on that side, and, indeed, when she was on the starboard tack, from all the forward berths.  One of the after berths, too, leaked in very bad weather; so that in a ship which was in other respects unusually tight, and brought her cargo to Boston perfectly dry, we had, after every effort made to prevent it, in the way of calking and leading, a forecastle with only three dry berths for seven of us.  However, as there is never but one watch below at a time, by "turning in and out," we did pretty well.  And there being in our watch but three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of us who lived forward, we generally had a dry berth apiece in bad weather.<ANCHOR ID="n30-1">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-1">On removing the cat-head, after the ship arrived at Boston, it was found that there were two holes under it which had been bored for the purpose of driving treenails, and which, accidentally, had not been plugged up when the cat-head was placed over them.  This provoking little piece of negligence caused us great discomfort.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>All this, however, was but anticipation.  We were still in fine weather in the North Pacific, running down the northeast trades, which we took on the second day after leaving San Diego.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, May 15th</HI>
139.sgm:, one week out, we were in latitude 14&deg; 56min; N., lon. 116&deg; 14min; W., having gone, by reckoning, over thirteen hundred miles in seven days.  In fact, ever since leaving San Diego, we had had a fair wind, and as much as we wanted of it.  For seven days our lower and topmast studding-sails were set all the time, and our royals and top-gallant studding-sails whenever she could stagger under them.  Indeed, the captain had shown, from the moment we got to sea, that he was to have no boy's play, but that the ship was to carry all she could, and that he was going to make up by "cracking on" to her what she wanted in lightness.  In this way we frequently made three degrees of latitude, besides something in longitude, in the course of twenty-four hours.  Our days we spent in the usual ship's work.  The rigging which had become slack from being long in port was to be set up; brest backstays got up; studding-sail booms rigged upon the main yard; and royal studding-sails got ready for the light trades; ring-tail set; and new rigging fitted, and sails made ready for Cape Horn.  For, with a ship's gear, as well as a sailor's wardrobe, fine weather must be improved to get ready for the bad to come.  Our forenoon watch below, as I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:have said, was given to our own work, and our night watches were spent in the usual manner, --a trick at the wheel, a lookout on the forecastle, a nap on a coil of rigging under the lee of the rail; a yarn round the windlass-end; or, as was generally my way, a solitary walk fore and aft, in the weather waist, between the windlass-end and the main tack.  Every wave that she threw aside brought us nearer home, and every day's observation at noon showed a progress which, if it continued, would, in less than five months, take us into Boston Bay.  This is the pleasure of life at sea, --fine weather, day after day, without interruption, --fair wind, and a plenty of it, --and homeward bound.  Every one was in good humor; things went right; and all was done with a will.  At the dog watch, all hands came on deck, and stood round the weather side of the forecastle, or sat upon the windlass, and sung sea-songs and those ballads of pirates and highwaymen which sailors delight in.  Home, too, and what we should do when we got there, and when and how we should arrive, was no infrequent topic.  Every night, after the kids and pots were put away, and we had lighted our pipes and cigars at the galley, and gathered about the windlass, the first question was, --</p><P>"Well, Dana, what was the latitude to-day?"</p><P>"Why, fourteen, north; and she had been going seven knots ever since."</p><P>"Well, this will bring us to the line in five days."</p><P>"Yes, but these trades won't last twenty-four hours longer." says an old salt, pointing with the sharp of his hand to leewad; "I know that by the look of the clouds."</p><P>Then came all manner of calculations and conjectures as to the continuance of the wind, the weather under the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:line, the southeast trades, &amp;c., and rough guesses as to the time the ship would be up with the Horn; and some, more venturous, gave her so many days to Boston Light, and offered to bet that she would not exceed it.</p><P>"You'd better wait till you get round Cape Horn," says an old croaker.</p><P>"Yes," says another, "you may see Boston, but you've got to 'smell hell' before that good day."</p><P>Rumors also of what had been said in the cabin, as usual, found their way forward.  The steward had heard the captain say something about the Straits of Magellan, and the man at the wheel fancied he had heard him tell the "passenger" that, if he found the wind ahead and the weather very bad off the Cape, he should stick her off for New Holland, and come home round the Cape of Good Hope.</p><P>This passenger--the first and only one we had had, except to go from port to port, on the coast--was no one else than a gentleman whom I had known in my smoother days, and the last person I should have expected to see on the coast of California, --Professor Nuttall, of Cambridge.  I had left him quietly seated in the chair of Botany and Ornithology in Harvard University, and the next I saw of him, he was strolling about San Diego beach, in a sailor's pea-jacket, with a wide straw hat, and barefooted, with his trousers rolled up to his knees, picking up stones and shells.  He had travelled overland to the Northwest Coast, and come down in a small vessel to Monterey.  There he learned that there was a ship at the leeward about to sail for Boston, and, taking passage in the Pilgrim, which was then at Monterey, he came slowly along, visiting the intermediate ports, and examining the trees, plants, earths, birds, &amp;c., and joined us at San Diego shortly before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:we sailed.  The second mate of the Pilgrim told me that they had an old gentleman on board who knew me, and came from the college that I had been in.  He could not recollect his name, but said he was a "sort of an oldish man," with white hair, and spent all his time in the bush, and along the beach, picking up flowers and shells and such truck, and had a dozen boxes and barrels full of them.  I thought over everybody who would be likely to be there, but could fix upon no one; when, the next day, just as we were about to shove off from the beach, he came down to the boat in the rig I have described, with his shoes in his hand, and his pockets full of specimens.  I knew him at once, though I should hardly have been more surprised to have seen the Old South steeple shoot up form the hide-house.  He probably had no more difficulty in recognizing me.  As we left home about the same time, we had nothing to tell each other; and, owing to our different situations on board, I saw but little of him on the passage home.  Sometimes, when I was at the wheel of a calm night, and the steering required little attention, and the officer of the watch was forward, he would come aft and hold a short yarn with me; but this was against the rules of the ship, as is, in fact, all intercourse between passengers and the crew.  I was often amused to see the sailors puzzled to know what to make of him, and to hear their conjectures about him and his business.  They were as much at a loss as our old sailmaker was with the captain's instruments in the cabin.  He said there were three, --the <HI REND="italics">chro</HI>
139.sgm: -nometer, the <HI REND="italics">chre</HI>
139.sgm: -nometer, and the <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
139.sgm: -nometer.  The Pilgrim's crew called Mr. Nuttral "Old Curious," from his zeal for curiosities; and some of them said that he was crazy, and that his friends let him go about and amuse himself in this way.  Why else a rich man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:(sailors call every man rich who does not work with his hands, and who wears a long coat and cravat) should leave a Christian country and come to such a place as California to pick up shells and stones, they could not understand.  One of them, however, who had seen something more of the world ashore, set all to rights, as he thought; "O, 'vast there!  You don't know anything about them craft. I've seen them colleges and know the ropes.  They keep all such things for cur'osities, and study 'em, and have men a purpose to go and get 'em.  This old chap knows what he's about.   He a'n't the child you take him for.  He'll carry all these things to the college, and if they are better than any that they have had before, he'll be head of the college.  Then, by and by, somebody else will go after some more, and if they beat him he'll have to go again, or else give up his berth.  That's the way they do it.  This old covey knows the ropes.  He has worked a traverse over 'em, and come 'way out here where nobody's ever been afore, and where they'll never think of coming."  This explanation satisfied Jack; and as it raised Mr. Nuttall's credit, and was near enough to the truth for common purposes, I did not disturb it.</p><P>With the exception of Mr. Nuttall, we had no one on board but the regular ship's company and the live stock.  Upon the stock we had made a considerable inroad.  We killed one of the bullocks every four days, so that they did not last us up to the line.  We, or rather the cabin, then began upon the sheep and the poultry for these never come into Jack's mess.<ANCHOR ID="n30-2">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: The pigs were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:left for the latter part of the voyage, for they are sailors, and can stand all weathers.  We had an old sow on board, the mother of a numerous progeny, who had been twice round the Cape of Good Hope and once round Cape Horn.  The last time going round was very nearly her death.  We heard her squealing and moaning one dark night after it had been snowing and hailing for several hours, and, climbing over into the sty, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:found her nearly frozen to death.  We got some straw, and old sail, and other things, and wrapped her up in a corner of the sty, where she stayed until we came into fine weather again.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-2"><P>The customs as to the allowance of "grub" are very nearly the same in all American merchantmen.  Whenever a pig is killed, the sailors have one mess from it.  The rest goes to the cabin.  The smaller live stock, poultry, &amp;c. the sailors never taste.  And indeed they do not complain of this, for it would take a great deal to supply them with a good meal; and without the accompaniments (which could hardly be furnished to them), it would not be much better than salt beef.  But even as to the salt beef they are scarcely dealt fairly with; for whenever a barrel is opened, before any of the beef is put into the harnes-cask, the steward comes up and picks it all over, and takes out the best pieces (those that have any fat in them) for the cabin.  This was done in both the vessels I was in, and the men said that it was usual in other vessels.  Indeed, it is made no secret, and some of the crew are usually called to help in assorting and putting away the pieces.  By this arrangement the hard, dry pieces, which the sailors call "old horse," come to their share.</p><P>There is a singular piece of rhyme, traditional among sailors, which they say over such pieces of beef.  I do not know that it ever appeared in print before.  When seated round the kid, if a particularly bad piece is found, one of the takes it up, and addresses it thus:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"'Old horse! old horse! what brought you here'?<LB>'From Sacarap to Portland Pier<LB>I've carted stone this many a year;<LB>Till, killed by blows and sore abuse,<LB>They salted me down for sailors' use.<LB>The sailors they do me despise;<LB>They turn me over and damn my eyes;<LB>Cut off my meat, and scrape my bones,<LB>And pitch me over to Davy Jones.'"</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>There is a story current among seamen, that a beef-dealer was convicted, at Boston, of having sold old horse for ship's stores, instead of beef, and had been sentenced to be confined in jail until he should eat the whole of it; and that he is now lying in Boston jail.  I have heard this story often, on board other vessels besides those of our own nation.  It is very generally believed, and is always highly commended, as a fair instance of retaliatory justice.</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, May 18th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Lat. 9&deg; 54' N., lon. 113 &deg; 17' W.  The northeast trades had now left us, and we had the usual variable winds, the "doldrums," which prevail near the line, together with some rain.  So long as we were in these latitudes, we had but little rest in our watch on deck at night; for, as the winds were light and variable, and we could not lose a breath, we were all the watch bracing the yards, and taking in and making sail, and "humbugging" with our flying kites.  A little puff of wind on the larboard quarter, and then--"larboard fore braces!" --and studding-sail booms were rigged out, studding-sails set alow and aloft, the yards trimmed, and jibs and spanker in; when it would come as calm as a duck-pond, the man at the wheel standing with the palm of his hand up, feeling for the wind.  "Keep her off a little!"  "All aback forward, sir!" cries a man from the forecastle.  Down go the braces again; in come the studding-sails, all in a mess, which half an hour won't set right; yards braced sharp up, and she's on the starboard tack, close-hauled.  The studding-sails must now be cleared away, and set up in the tops and on the booms, and the gear cut off and made fast.  By the time this is done, and you are looking out for a soft plank for a nap, --"Lay aft here, and square in the head yards!" and the studding-sails are all set again on the starboard side.  So it goes until it is eight bells, --call the watch, --heave the log, --relieve the wheel, and go below the larboard watch.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, May 22d.</HI>
139.sgm: Lat. 5&deg; 14' N., lon. 166&deg; 45' W.  We were now a fortnight out, and within five degrees of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:the line, to which two days of good breeze would take us; but we had, for the most part, what the sailors call "an Irishman's hurricane, --right up and down."  This day it rained nearly all day, and, being Sunday and nothing to do, we stopped up the scuppers and filled the decks with rain water, and, bringing all our clothes on deck, had a grand wash, fore and aft.  When this was through, we stripped to our drawers, and taking pieces of soap, with strips of canvas for towels, we turned-to and soaped, washed and scrubbed one another down, to get off, as we said, the California grime; for the common wash in salt water, which is all that Jack can get, being on an allowance of fresh, had little efficacy, and was more for taste than utility.  The captain was below all the afternoon, and we had something nearer to Saturnalia than anything we had yet seen; for the mate came into the scuppers, with a couple of boys to scrub him, and got into a contest with them in heaving water.  By unplugging the holes, we let the soapsuds off the decks, and in a short time had a new supply of clear rain water, in which we had a grand rinsing.  It was surprising to see how much soap and fresh water did for the complexions of many of us; how much of what we supposed to be tan and sea-blacking we got rid of.  The next day, the sun rising clear, the ship was covered, fore and aft, with clothes of all sorts, hanging out to dry.</p><P>As we approached the line, the wind became more easterly, and the weather clearer, and in twenty days from San Diego, --</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, May 28th</HI>
139.sgm:, at about three P.M., with a fine breeze from the east-southeast, we crossed the equator.  In twenty-four hours after crossing the line, we took, which was very unusual, the regular southeast trades.  These winds come a little from the eastward of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:southeast, and with us they blew directly from the east-southeast, which was fortunate for us, as our course was south-by-west, and we could thus go one point free.  The yards were braced so that every sail drew, from the spanker to the flying-jib; and, the upper yards being squared in a little, the fore and main top-gallant studding-sails were set, and drew handsomely.  For twelve days this breeze blew steadily, not varying a point, and just so fresh that we could carry our royals; and during the whole time we hardly started a brace.  Such progress did we make that at the end of seven days from the time we took the breeze, on--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June 5th</HI>
139.sgm:, we were in lat. 19&deg; 29' S., and lon. 118&deg; 01'., having made twelve hundred miles in seven days, very nearly upon a taut bowline.  Our good ship was getting to be herself again, and had increased her rate of sailing more than one third since leaving San Diego.  The crew ceased complaining of her, and the officers hove the log every two hours with evident satisfaction.  This was glorious sailing.  A steady breeze; the light tradewind clouds over our heads; the incomparable temperature of the Pacific, --neither hot nor cold; a clear sun every day, and clear moon and stars every night, and new constellations rising in the south, and the familiar ones sinking in the north, as we went on our course, --"stemming nightly toward the pole."  Already we had sunk the North Star and the Great Bear, while the Southern Cross appeared well above the southern horizon, and all hands looked out sharp to the southward for the Magellan Clouds, which, each succeeding night, we expected to make.  "The next time we see the North Star," said one, "we shall be standing to the northward, the other side of the Horn."  This was true enough, and no doubt it would be a welcome <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:sight, for sailors say that in coming home from round Cape Horn, or the Cape of Good Hope, the North Star is the first land you make.</p><P>These trades were the same that in the passage out in the Pilgrim lasted nearly all the way from Juan Fernandez to the line; blowing steadily on our starboard quarter for three weeks, without our starting a brace, or even brailing down the skysails.  Though we had now the same wind, and were in the same latitude with the Pilgrim on her passage out, yet we were nearly twelve hundred miles to the westward of her course; for the captain, depending upon the strong southwest winds which prevail in high southern latitudes during the winter months, took the full advantage of the trades, and stood well to the westward, so far that we passed within about two hundred miles of Ducie's Island.</p><P>It was this weather and sailing that brought to my mind a little incident that occurred on board the Pilgrim, while we were in the same latitude.  We were going along at a great rate, dead before the wind, with studding-sails out on both sides, alow and aloft, on a dark night, just after midnight, and everything as still as the grave, except the washing of the water by the vessel's side; for, being before the wind, with a smooth sea, the little brig, covered with canvas, was doing great business with very little noise.  The other watch was below, and all our watch, except myself and the man at the wheel, were asleep under the lee of the boat.  The second mate, who came out before the mast, and was always very <HI REND="italics">thick</HI>
139.sgm: with me, had been holding a yarn with me, and just gone aft to his place on the quarter-deck, and I had resumed my usual walk to and from the wind-lass-end, when, suddenly, we heard a loud scream coming from ahead, apparently directly from under the bows.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:The darkness, and complete stillness of the night, and the solitude of the ocean, gave to the sound a dreadful and almost supernatural effect.  I stood perfectly still, and my heart beat quick.  The sound woke up the rest of the watch, who stood looking at one another.  "What, in the name of God, is that?" said the second mate, coming slowly forward.  The first thought I had was, that it might be a boat, with the crew of some wrecked vessel, or perhaps the boat of some whale-ship, out over night, and we had run it down in the darkness.  Another scream! but less loud than the first.  This started us, and we ran forward, and looked over the bows, and over the sides, to leeward, but nothing was to be seen or heard.  What was to be done?  Heave the ship aback, and call the captain?  Just at this moment, in crossing the forecastle, one of the men saw a light below, and, looking down the scuttle, saw the watch all out of their berths, and afoul of one poor fellow, dragging him out of his berth, and shaking him, to wake him out of a nightmare.  They had been waked out of their sleep, and as much alarmed at the scream as we were, and were hesitating whether to come on deck, when the second sound, proceeding directly from one of the berths, revealed the cause of the alarm.  The fellow got a good shaking for the trouble he had given.  We made a joke of the matter; and we could well laugh, for our minds were not a little relieved by its ridiculous termination.</p><P>We were now close upon the southern tropical line, and, with so fine a breeze, were daily leaving the sun behind us, and drawing nearer to Cape Horn, for which it behooved us to make every preparation.  Our rigging was all overhauled and mended, or changed for new, where it was necessary; new and strong bobstays fitted in the place of the chain ones, which were worn out; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:sprit-sail yard and martingale guys and back-ropes set well taut; bran-new fore and main braces rove; top-gallant sheets, and wheelropes, made of green hide, laid up in the form of rope, were stretched and fitted; and new topsail clew-lines, &amp;c. rove; new fore-topmast backstays fitted; and other preparations made in good season, that the ropes might have time to stretch and become limber before we got into cold weather.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June 12th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Lat. 26&deg; 04' S., lon. 116&deg; 31' W.  We had now lost the regular trades, and had the winds variable, principally from the westward, and kept on in a southerly course, sailing very nearly upon a meridian, and at the end of the week, --</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June 19th</HI>
139.sgm:, were in lat. 34&deg; 15' S., and lon. 116&deg; 38' W.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THERE began now to be a decided change in the appearance of things.  The days became shorter and shorter; the sun running lower in its course each day, and giving less and less heat, and the nights so cold as to prevent our sleeping on deck; the Magellan Clouds in sight, of a clear, moonless night; the skies looking cold and angry; and, at times, a long, heavy, ugly sea, setting in from the southward, told us what we were coming to.  Still, however, we had a fine, strong breeze, and kept on our way under as much sail as our ship would bear.  Toward the middle of the week, the wind hauled to the southward, which brought us upon a taut bowline, made the ship meet, nearly head-on, the heavy swell which rolled from that quarter; and there was something not at all encouraging in the manner in which she met it.  Being still so deep and heavy, she wanted the buoyancy which should have carried her over the seas, and she dropped heavily into them, the water washing over the decks; and every now and then, when an unusually large sea met her fairly upon the bows, she struck it with a sound as dead and heavy as that with which a sledge-hammer falls upon the pile, and took the whole of it in upon the forecastle, and, rising, carried it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:aft in the scuppers, washing the rigging off the pins, and carrying along with it everything which was loose on deck.  She had been acting in this way all of our forenoon watch below; as we could tell by the washing of the water over our heads, and the heavy breaking of the seas against her bows, only the thickness of a plank from our heads, as we lay in our berths, which are directly against the bows.  At eight bells, the watch was called, and we came on deck, one hand going aft to take the wheel, and another going to the galley to get the grub for dinner.  I stood on the forecastle, looking at the seas, which were rolling high, as far as the eye could reach, their tops white with foam, and the body of them of a deep indigo blue, reflecting the bright rays of the sun.  Our ship rose slowly over a few of the largest of them, until one immense fellow came rolling on, threatening to cover her, and which I was sailor enough to know, by the "feeling of her" under my feet, she would not rise over.  I sprang upon the knight-heads, and, seizing hold of the fore-stay, drew myself up upon it.  My feet were just off the stanchion when the bow struck fairly into the middle of the sea, and it washed the ship fore and aft, burying her in the water.  As soon as she rose out of it, I looked aft, and everything forward of the mainmast, except the long-boat, which was griped and double-lashed down to the ring-bolts, was swept off clear.  The galley, the pigsty, the hen-coop, and a large sheep-pen which had been built upon the fore-hatch, were all gone in the twinkling of an eye, --leaving the deck as clean as a chin new reaped, --and not a stick left to show where anything had stood.  In the scuppers lay the galley, bottom up, and a few boards floating about, --the wreck of the sheep-pen, --and half a dozen miserable sheep floating among them, wet through, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and not a little frightened at the sudden change that had come upon them.  As soon as the sea had washed by, all hands sprang up out of the forecastle to see what had become of the ship; and in a few moments the cook and Old Bill crawled out from under the galley, where they had been lying in the water, nearly smothered, with the galley over them.  Fortunately, it rested against the bulwarks, or it would have broken some of their bones.  When the water ran off, we picked the sheep up, and put them in the long-boat, got the galley back in its place, and set things a little to rights; but, had not our ship had uncommonly high bulwarks and rail, everything must have been washed overboard, not excepting Old Bill and the cook.  Bill had been standing at the galley-door, with the kid of beef in his hand for the forecastle mess, when away he went, kid, beef, and all.  He held on to the kid to the last, like a good fellow, but the beef was gone, and when the water had run off we saw it lying high and dry, like a rock at low tide, --nothing could hurt <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
139.sgm:.  We took the loss of our beef very easily, consoling ourselves with the recollection that the cabin had more to lose than we; and chuckled not a little at seeing the remains of the chickenpie and pancakes floating in the scuppers.  "This will never do!" was what some said, and every one felt.  Here we were, not yet within a thousand miles of the latitude of Cape Horn, and our decks swept by a sea not one half so high as we must expect to find there.  Some blamed the captain for loading his ship so deep when he knew what he must expect; while others said that the wind was always southwest, off the Cape, in the winter, and that, running before it, we should not mind the seas so much.  When we got down into the forecastle, Old Bill, who was somewhat of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:croaker, --having met with a great many accidents at sea, --said that, if that was the way she was going to act, we might as well make our wills, and balance the books at once, and put on a clean shirt.  "'Vast there, you bloody old owl! you're always hanging out blue lights!  You're frightened by the ducking you got in the scuppers, and can't take a joke!  What's the use in being always on the lookout for Davy Jones?"  "Stand by!" says another, "and we'll get an afternoon watch below, by this scrape"; but in this they were disappointed, for at two bells all hands were called and set to work, getting lashings upon everything on deck; and the captain talked of sending down the long top-gallant-masts; but as the sea went down toward night, and the wind hauled abeam, we left them standing, and set the studding-sails.</p><P>The next day all hands were turned-to upon unbending the old sails, and getting up the new ones; for a ship, unlike people on shore, puts on her best suit in bad weather.  The old sails were sent down, and three new topsails, and new fore and main courses, jib, and fore-topmast staysail, which were made on the coast and never had been used, were bent, with a complete set of new earings, robands, and reef-points; and reef-tackles were rove to the courses, and spilling-lines to the topsails.  These, with new braces and clew-lines fore and aft, gave us a good suit of running rigging.</p><P>The wind continued westerly, and the weather and sea less rough since the day on which we shipped the heavy sea, and we were making great progress under studding-sails, with our light sails all set, keeping a little to the eastward of south; for the captain, depending upon westerly winds off the Cape, had kept so far to the westward that, though we were within about five hundred miles of the latitude of Cape Horn, we were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:nearly seventeen hundred miles to the westward of it.  Through the rest of the week we continued on with a fair wind, gradually, as we got more to the southward, keeping a more easterly course, and bringing the wind on our larboard quarter, until--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June 26th</HI>
139.sgm:, when, having a fine, clear day, the captain got a lunar observation, as well as his meridian altitude, which made us in lat. 47&deg; 50' S., lon. 113&deg; 49' W.; Cape Horn bearing, according to my calculations, E. S. E. 1/2 E., and distant eighteen hundred miles.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Monday, June 27th</HI>
139.sgm:.  During the first part of this day the wind continued fair, and, as we were going before it, it did not feel very cold, so that we kept at work on deck in our common clothes and round jackets.  Our watch had an afternoon watch below for the first time since leaving San Diego; and, having inquired of the third mate what the latitude was at noon, and made our usual guesses as to the time she would need to be up with the Horn, we turned-in for a nap.  We were sleeping away "at the rate of knots," when three knocks on the scuttle and "All hands, ahoy!" started us from our berths.  What could be the matter?  It did not appear to be blowing hard, and, looking up through the scuttle, we could see that it was a clear day overhead; yet the watch were taking in sail.  We thought there must be a sail in sight, and that we were about to heaveto and speak her; and were just congratulating ourselves upon it, --for we had seen neither sail nor land since we left port, --when we heard the mate's voice on deck (he turned-in "all-standing," and was always on deck the moment he was called) singing out to the men who were taking in the studding-sails, and asking where his watch were.  We did not wait for a second call, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:but tumbled up the ladder; and there, on the starboard bow, was a bank of mist, covering sea and sky, and driving directly for us.  I had seen the same before in my passage round in the Pilgrim, and knew what it meant, and that there was no time to be lost.  We had nothing on but thin clothes, yet there was not a moment to spare, and at it we went.</p><P>The boys of the other watch were in the tops, taking in the top-gallant studding-sails and the lower and topmast studding-sails were coming down by the run.  It was nothing but "haul down and clew up," until we got all the studding-sails in, and the royals, flying jib, and mizzen top-gallant-sail furled, and the ship kept off a little, to take the squall.  The fore and main top-gallant sails were still on her, for the "old man" did not mean to be frightened in broad daylight, and was determined to carry sail till the last minute.  We all stood waiting for its coming, when the first blast showed us that it was not to be trifled with.  Rain, sleet, snow, and wind enough to take our breath from us, and make the toughest turn his back to windward!  The ship lay nearly over upon her beam-ends; the spars and rigging snapped and cracked; and her top-gallant-masts bent like whip-sticks.  "Clew up the fore and main top-gallant-sails!" shouted the captain, and all hands sprang to the clew-lines.  The decks were standing nearly at an angle of forty-five degrees, and the ship going like a mad steed through the water, the whole forward part of her in a smother of foam.  The halyards were let go, and the yard clewed down, and the sheets started, and in a few minutes the sails smothered and kept in by clewlines and buntlines.  "Furl 'em, sir?" asked the mate.  "Let go the topsail halyards, fore and aft!" shouted the captain in answer, at the top of his voice.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Down came the topsail yards, the reef-tackles were manned and hauled out, and we climbed up to windward, and sprang into the weather rigging.  The violence of the wind, and the hail and sleet, driving nearly horizontally across the ocean, seemed actually to pin us down to the rigging.  It was hard work making head against them.  One after another we got out upon the yards.  And here we had work to do; for our new sails had hardly been bent long enough to get the stiffness out of them, and the new earings and reef-points, stiffened with the sleet, knotted like pieces of iron wire.  Having only our round jackets and straw hats on, we were soon wet through, and it was every moment growing colder.  Our hands were soon numbed, which, added to the stiffness of everything else, kept us a good while on the yard.  After we had got the sail hauled upon the yard, we had to wait a long time for the weather earing to be passed; but there was no fault to be found, for French John was at the earing, and a better sailor never laid out on a yard; so we leaned over the yard and beat our hands upon the sail to keep them from freezing.  At length the word came, "Haul out to leeward," and we seized the reef-points and hauled the band taut for the lee earing.  "Taut band--knot away," and we got the first reef fast, and were just going to lay down, when--"Two reefs--two reefs!" shouted the mate, and we had a second reef to take, in the same way.  When this was fast we went down on deck, manned the halyards to leeward, nearly up to our knees in water, set the topsail, and then laid aloft on the main topsail yard, and reefed that sail in the same manner; for, as I have before stated, we were a good deal reduced in numbers, and, to make it worse, the carpenter, only two days before, had cut his leg with an axe, so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:that he could not go aloft.  This weakened us so that we could not well manage more than one topsail at a time, in such weather as this, and, of course, each man's labor was doubled.  From the main topsail yard, we went upon the main yard, and took a reef in the mainsail.  No sooner had we got on deck than--"Lay aloft there, and close-reef mizzen topsail!"  This called me; and, being nearest to the rigging, I got first aloft and out to the weather earing.  English Ben was up just after me, and took the lee earing, and the rest of our gang were soon on the yard, and began to fist the sail, when the mate considerately sent up the cook and steward to help us.  I could now account for the long time it took to pass the other earings, for, to do my best, with a strong hand to help me at the dog's ear, I could not get it passed until I heard them beginning to complain in the bunt.  One reef after another we took in, until the sail was close-reefed, when we went down and hoisted away at the halyards.  In the mean time, the jib had been furled and the staysail set, and the ship under her reduced sail had got more upright, and was under management; but the two top-gallant-sails were still hanging in the buntlines, and slatting and jerking as though they would take the masts out of her.  We gave a look aloft, and knew that our work was not done yet; and, sure enough, no sooner did the mate see that we were on deck than--"Lay aloft there, four of you, and furl the top-gallant-sails!"  This called me again, and two of us went aloft up the fore rigging, and two more up the main, upon the top-gallant yards.  The shrouds were now iced over, the sleet having formed a crust round all the standing rigging, and on the weather side of the masts and yards.  When we got upon the yard, my hands were so numb that I could not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:have cast off the knot of the gasket if it were to save my life.  We both lay over the yard for a few seconds, beating our hands upon the sail, until we started the blood into our fingers' ends, and at the next moment our hands were in a burning heat.  My companion on the yard was a lad (the boy, George Somerby), who came out in the ship a weak, puny boy, from one of the Boston schools, --"no larger than a spritsail-sheet knot," nor "heavier than a paper of lamp-black," and "not strong enough to haul a shad off a gridiron," but who was now "as long as a spare topmast, strong enough to knock down an ox, and hearty enough to eat him."  We fisted the sail together, and, after six or eight minutes of hard hauling and pulling and beating down the sail, which was about as stiff as sheet-iron, we managed to get it furled; and snugly furled it must be, for we knew the mate well enough to be certain that if it got adrift again we should be called up from our watch below, at any hour of the night, to furl it.</p><P>I had been on the lookout for a chance to jump below and clap on a thick jacket and southwester; but when we got on deck we found that eight bells had been struck, and the other watch gone below, so that there were two hours of dog watch for us, and a plenty of work to do.  It had now set in for a steady gale from the southwest; but we were not yet far enough to the southward to make a fair wind of it, for we must give Terra del Fuego a wide berth.  The decks were covered with snow, and there was a constant driving of sleet.  In fact, Cape Horn had set in with good earnest.  In the midst of all this, and before it became dark, we had all the studding-sails to make up and stow away, and then to lay aloft and rig in all the booms, fore and aft, and coil away the tacks, sheets, and halyards.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:was pretty tough work for four or five hands, in the face of a gale which almost took us off the yards, and with ropes so stiff with ice that it was almost impossible to bend them.  I was nearly half an hour out on the end of the fore yard, trying to coil away and stop down the topmast studding-sail tack and lower halyards.  It was after dark when we got through, and we were not a little pleased to hear four bells struck, which sent us below for two hours, and gave us each a pot of hot tea with our cold beef and bread, and, what was better yet, a suit of thick, dry clothing, fitted for the weather, in place of our thin clothes, which were wet through and now frozen stiff.</p><P>This sudden turn, for which we were so little prepared, was as unacceptable to me as to any of the rest; for I had been troubled for several days with a slight toothache, and this cold weather and wetting and freezing were not the best things in the world for it.  I soon found that it was getting strong hold, and running over all parts of my face; and before the watch was out I went aft to the mate, who had charge of the medicine-chest, to get something for it.  But the chest showed like the end of a long voyage, for there was nothing that would answer but a few drops of laudanum, which must be saved for an emergency; so I had only to bear the pain as well as I could.</p><P>When we went on deck at eight bells, it had stopped snowing, and there were a few stars out, but the clouds were still black, and it was blowing a steady gale.  Just before midnight, I went aloft and sent down the mizzen royal yard, and had the good luck to do it to the satisfaction of the mate, who said it was done "out of hand and ship-shape."  The next four hours below were but little relief to me, for I lay awake in my berth the whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FURLING THE TOP-GALLANT-SAILS IN A BLIZZARD</p></CAPTION>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:time, from the pain in my face, and heard every bell strike, and, at four o'clock, turned out with the watch, feeling little spirit for the hard duties of the day.  Bad weather and hard work at sea can be borne up against very well if one only has spirit and health; but there is nothing brings a man down, at such a time, like bodily pain and want of sleep.  There was, however, too much to do to allow time to think; for the gale of yesterday, and the heavy seas we met with a few days before, while we had yet ten degrees more southing to make, had convinced the captain that we had something before us which was not to be trifled with, and orders were given to send down the long top-gallant-masts.  The top-gallant and royal yards were accordingly struck, the flying jib-boom rigged in, and the top-gallant-masts sent down on deck, and all lashed together by the side of the longboat.  The rigging was then sent down and coiled away below, and everything made snug aloft.  There was not a sailor in the ship who was not rejoiced to see these sticks come down; for, so long as the yards were aloft, on the least sign of a lull, the top-gallant-sails were loosed, and then we had to furl them again in a snow squall, and <HI REND="italics">shin</HI>
139.sgm: up and down single ropes caked with ice, and send royal yards down in the teeth of a gale coming right from the south pole.  It was an interesting sight, too, to see our noble ship, dismantled of all her top-hamper of long tapering masts and yards, and boom pointed with spear-head, which ornamented her in port; and all that canvas, which a few days before had covered her like a cloud, from the truck to the water's edge, spreading far out beyond her hull on either side, now gone; and she stripped, like a wrestler for the fight.  It corresponded, too, with the desolate character of her situation, --alone, as she was, battling with storms, wind, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and ice, at this extremity of the globe, and in almost constant night.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, July 1st</HI>
139.sgm:.  We were now nearly up to the latitude of Cape Horn, and having over forty degrees of easting to make, we squared away the yards before a strong westerly gale, shook a reef out of the fore topsail, and stood on our way, east-by-south, with the prospect of being up with the Cape in a week or ten days.  As for myself, I had had no sleep for forty-eight hours; and the want of rest, together with constant wet and cold, had increased the swelling, so that my face was nearly as large as two, and I found it impossible to get my mouth open wide enough to eat.  In this state, the steward applied to the captain for some rice to boil for me, but he only got a--"No! d--you!  Tell him to eat salt junk and hard bread, like the rest of them."  This was, in truth, what I expected.  However, I did not starve, for Mr. Brown, who was a man as well as a sailor, and had always been a good friend to me, smuggled a pan of rice into the galley, and told the cook to boil it for me, and not let the "old man" see it.  Had it been fine weather, or in port, I should have gone below and lain by until my face got well; but in such weather as this, and short-handed as we were, it was not for me to desert my post; so I kept on deck, and stood my watch and did my duty as well as I could.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, July 2d</HI>
139.sgm:.  This day the sun rose fair, but it ran too low in the heavens to give any heat, or thaw out our sails and rigging; yet the sight of it was pleasant; and we had a steady "reef-topsail breeze" from the westward.  The atmosphere, which had previously been clear and cold, for the last few hours grew damp, and had a disagreeable, wet chilliness in it; and the man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:who came from the wheel said he heard the captain tell "the passenger" that the thermometer had fallen several degrees since morning, which he could not account for in any other way than by supposing that there must be ice near us; though such a thing was rarely heard of in this latitude at this season of the year.  At twelve o'clock we went below, and had just got through dinner, when the cook put his head down the scuttle and told us to come on deck and see the finest sight that we had ever seen.  "Where away, Doctor?"<ANCHOR ID="n31-1">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: asked the first man who was up.  "On the larboard bow."  And there lay, floating in the ocean, several miles off, an immense, irregular mass, its top and points covered with snow, and its centre of a deep indigo color.  This was an iceberg, and of the largest size, as one of our men said who had been in the Northern Ocean.  As far as the eye could reach, the sea in every direction was of a deep blue color, the waves running high and fresh, and sparkling in the light, and in the midst lay this immense mountain-island, its cavities and valleys thrown into deep shade, and its points and pinnacles glittering in the sun.  All hands were soon on deck, looking at it, and admiring in various ways its beauty and grandeur.  But no description can give any idea of the strangeness, splendor, and, really, the sublimity, of the sight.  Its great size, --for it must have been from two to three miles in circumference, and several hundred feet in height, --its slow motion, as its base rose and sank in the water, and its high points nodded against the clouds; the dashing of the waves upon it, which, breaking high with foam, lined its base with a white crust; and the thundering sound of the cracking of the mass, and the breaking and tumbling down of huge pieces; together with its nearness and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:approach, which added a slight element of fear, --all combined to give it the character of true sublimity.  The main body of the mass was, as I have said, of an indigo color, its base crusted with frozen foam; and as it grew thin and transparent toward the edges and top, its color shaded off from a deep blue to the whiteness of snow.  It seemed to be drifting slowly toward the north, so that we kept away and avoided it.  It was in sight all the afternoon; and when we got to leeward of it the wind died away, so that we lay-to quite near it for a greater part of the night.  Unfortunately, there was no moon, but it was a clear night, and we could plainly mark the long, regular heaving of the stupendous mass, as its edges moved slowly against the stars, now revealing them, and now shutting them in.  Several times in our watch loud cracks were heard, which sounded as though they must have run through the whole length of the iceberg, and several pieces fell down with a thundering crash, plunging heavily into the sea.  Toward morning a strong breeze sprang up, and we filled away, and left it astern, and at daylight it was out of sight.  The next day, which was--</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31-1">The cook's title in all vessels.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July 3d</HI>
139.sgm:, the breeze continued strong, the air exceedingly chilly, and the thermometer low.  In the course of the day we saw several icebergs of different sizes, but none so near as the one which we saw the day before.  Some of them, as well as we could judge, at the distance at which we were, must have been as large as that, if not larger.  At noon we were in latitude 55&deg; 12' south, and supposed longitude 89&deg; 5' west.  Toward night the wind hauled to the southward, and headed us off our course a little, and blew a tremendous gale; but this we did not mind, as there was no rain nor snow, and we were already under close sail.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monday, July 4th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This was "Independence Day" in Boston.  What firing of guns, and ringing of bells, and rejoicings of all sorts, in every part of our country!  The ladies (who have not gone down to Nahant, for a breath of cool air and sight of the ocean) walking the streets with parasols over their heads, and the dandies in their white pantaloons and silk stockings!  What quantities of ice-cream have been eaten, and how many loads of ice brought into the city from a distance, and sold out by the lump and the pound!  The smallest of the islands which we saw to-day would have made the fortune of poor Jack, if he had had it in Boston; and I dare say he would have had no objection to being there with it.  This, to be sure, was no place to keep the Fourth of July.  To keep ourselves warm, and the ship out of the ice, was as much as we could do.  Yet no one forgot the day; and many were the wishes and conjectures and comparisons, both serious and ludicrous, which were made among all hands.  The sun shone bright as long as it was up, only that a scud of black clouds was ever and anon driving across it.  At noon we were in lat. 54&deg; 27' S., and lon. 85&deg; 5' W., having made a good deal of easting, but having lost in our latitude by the heading off of the wind.  Between daylight and dark--that is, between nine o'clock and three--we saw thirty-four ice islands of various sizes; some no bigger than the hull of our vessel, and others apparently nearly as large as the one that we first saw; though, as we went on, the islands became smaller and more numerous; and, at sundown of this day, a man at the mast-head saw large tracts of floating ice, called "field-ice," at the southeast.  This kind of ice is much more dangerous than the large islands, for those can be seen at a distance, and kept away from; but the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:field-ice, floating in great quantities, and covering the ocean for miles and miles, in pieces of every size, --large, flat, and broken cakes, with here and there an island rising twenty and thirty feet, and as large as the ship's hull, --this it is very difficult to sheer clear of.  A constant lookout was necessary; for many of these pieces, coming with the heave of the sea, were large enough to have knocked a hole in the ship, and that would have been the end of us; for no boat (even if we could have got one out) could have lived in such a sea; and no man could have lived in a boat in such weather.  To make our condition still worse, the wind came out due east, just after sundown, and it blew a gale dead ahead, with hail and sleet and a thick fog, so that we could not see half the length of the ship.  Our chief reliance, the prevailing westerly gales, was thus cut off; and here we were, nearly seven hundred miles to the westward of the Cape, with a gale dead from the eastward, and the weather so thick that we could not see the ice, with which we were surrounded, until it was directly under our bows.  At four P. M. (it was then quite dark) all hands were called, and sent aloft, in a violent squall of hail and rain, to take in sail.  We had now all got on our "Cape Horn rig," --thick boots, southwesters coming down over our neck and ears, thick trousers and jackets, and some with oil-cloth suits over all.  Mittens, too, we wore on deck, but it would not do to go aloft with them, as, being wet and stiff, they might let a man slip overboard, for all the hold he could get upon a rope:  so we were obliged to work with bare hands, which, as well as our faces, were often cut with the hailstones, which fell thick and large.  Our ship was now all cased with ice, --hull, spars, and standing rigging; and the running rigging so stiff that we could hardly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AMONG THE ICEBERGS</p></CAPTION>
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139.sgm:bend it so as to belay it, or still less, take a knot with it; and the sails frozen.  One at a time (for it was a long piece of work and required many hands) we furled the courses, mizzen topsail, and fore-topmast staysail, and close-reefed the fore and main topsails, and hove the ship to under the fore, with the main hauled up by the clew-lines and buntlines, and ready to be sheeted home, if we found it necessary to make sail to get to windward of an ice island.  A regular lookout was then set, and kept by each watch in turn, until the morning.  It was a tedious and anxious night.  It blew hard the whole time, and there was an almost constant driving of either rain, hail, or snow.  In addition to this, it was "as thick as muck," and the ice was all about us.  The captain was on deck nearly the whole night, and kept the cook in the galley, with a roaring fire, to make coffee for him, which he took every few hours, and once or twice gave a little to his officers; but not a drop of anything was there for the crew.  The captain, who sleeps all the daytime, and comes and goes at night as he chooses, can have his brandy-and-water in the cabin, and his hot coffee at the galley; while Jack, who has to stand through everything, and work in wet and cold, can have nothing to wet his lips or warm his stomach.  This was a "temperance ship" by her articles, and, like too many such ships, the temperance was all in the forecastle.  The sailor, who only takes his one glass as it is dealt out to him, is in danger of being drunk; while the captain, upon whose self-possession and cool judgment the lives of all depend, may be trusted with any amount, to drink at his will.  Sailors will never be convinced that rum is a dangerous thing by taking it away from them and giving it to the officers; nor can they see a friend in that temperance which takes from them what they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:have always had, and gives them nothing in the place of it.  By seeing it allowed to their officers, they will not be convinced that it is taken from them for their good; and by receiving nothing in its place they will not believe that it is done in kindness.  On the contrary, many of them look upon the change as a new instrument of tyranny.  Not that they prefer rum.  I never knew a sailor, who had been a month away from the grog shops, who would not prefer a pot of hot coffee or chocolate, in a cold night, to all the rum afloat.  They all say that rum only warms them for a time; yet, if they can get nothing better, they will miss what they have lost.  The momentary warmth and glow from drinking it; the break and change which it makes in a long, dreary watch by the mere calling all hands aft and serving of it out; and the simply having some event to look forward to and to talk about, --all give it an importance and a use which no one can appreciate who has not stood his watch before the mast.  On my passage out, the Pilgrim was not under temperance articles, and grog was served out every middle and morning watch, and after every reefing of topsails; and, though I had never drunk rum before, nor desire to again, I took my allowance then at the capstan, as the rest did, merely for the momentary warmth it gave the system, and the change in our feelings and aspect of our duties on the watch.  At the same time, as I have said, there was not a man on board who would not have pitched the rum to the dogs (I have heard them say so a dozen times) for a pot of coffee or chocolate; or even for our common beverage, --"water bewitched and tea begrudged," as it was.<ANCHOR ID="n31-2">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: The temperance reform is the best thing that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:ever was undertaken for the sailor; but when the grog is taken from him, he ought to have something in its place.  As it is now, in most vessels, it is a mere saving to the owners; and this accounts for the sudden increase of temperance ships, which surprised even the best friends of the cause.  If every merchant, when he struck grog from the list of the expenses of his ship, had been obliged to substitute as much coffee, or chocolate, as would give each man a pot-full when he came off the topsail yard, on a stormy night, --I fear Jack might have gone to ruin on the old road.<ANCHOR ID="n31-3">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31-2">The proportions of the ingredients of the tea that was made for us (and ours, as I have before stated, was a favorable specimen of American merchantmen) were a pint of tea and a pint and a half of molasses to about three gallons of water.  These are all boiled down together in the "coppers," and, before serving it out, the mess is stirred up with a stick, so as to give each man his fair share of sweetening and tealeaves.  The tea for the cabin is, of course, made in the usual way, in a teapot, and drunk with sugar.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n31-3">I do not wish these remarks, so far as they relate to the saving of expense in the outfit, to be applied to the owners of our ship, for she was supplied with an abundance of stores of the best kind that are given to seamen; though the dispensing of them is necessarily left to the captain.  And I learned, on our return, that the captain withheld many of the stores from us, from mere ugliness.  He brought several barrels of flour home, but would not give us the usual twice-a-week duff, and so as to other stores.  Indeed, so high was the reputation of "the employ" among men and officers for the character and outfit of their vessels, and for their liberality in conducting their voyages, that when it was known that they had the Alert fitting out for a long voyage, and that hands were to be shipped at a certain time, --a half hour before the time, as one of the crew told me, sailors were steering down the wharf, hopping over the barrels, like a drove of sheep.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>But this is not doubling Cape Horn.  Eight hours of the night our watch was on deck, and during the whole of that time we kept a bright lookout:  one man on each bow, another in the bunt of the fore yard, the third mate on the scuttle, one man on each quarter, and another always standing by the wheel.  The chief mate was everywhere, and commanded the ship when the captain was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:below.  When a large piece of ice was seen in our way, or drifting near us, the word was passed along, and the ship's head turned one way and another; and sometimes the yards squared or braced up.  There was little else to do than to look out; and we had the sharpest eyes in the ship on the forecastle.  The only variety was the monotonous voice of the lookout forward, --"Another island!"--"Ice ahead!"--"Ice on the lee bow!"--"Hard up the helm!"--"Keep her off a little!"--"Stead-y!"</p><P>In the mean time the wet and cold had brought my face into such a state that I could neither eat nor sleep; and though I stood it out all night, yet, when it became light, I was in such a state that all hands told me I must go below, and lie-by for a day or two, or I should be laid up for a long time.  When the watch was changed I went into the steerage, and took off my hat and comforter, and showed my face to the mate, who told me to go below at once, and stay in my berth until the swelling went down, and gave the cook orders to make a poultice for me, and said he would speak to the captain.</p><P>I went below and turned-in, covering myself over with blankets and jackets, and lay in my berth nearly twenty-four hours, half asleep and half awake, stupid from the dull pain.  I heard the watch called, and the men going up and down, and sometimes a noise on deck, and a cry of "ice," but I gave little attention to anything.  At the end of twenty-four hours the pain went down, and I had a long sleep, which brought me back to my proper state; yet my face was so swollen and tender that I was obliged to keep my berth for two or three days longer.  During the two days I had been below, the weather was much the same that it had been,--head winds, and snow and rain; or, if the wind came fair, too foggy, and the ice too thick, to run.  At the end of the third day the ice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:was very thick; a complete fog-bank covered the ship.  It blew a tremendous gale from the eastward, with sleet and snow, and there was every promise of a dangerous and fatiguing night.  At dark, the captain called all hands aft, and told them that not a man was to leave the deck that night; that the ship was in the greatest danger, any cake of ice might knock a hole in her, or she might run on an island and go to pieces.  No one could tell whether she would be a ship the next morning.  The lookouts were then set, and every man was put in his station.  When I heard what was the state of things, I began to put on my clothes to stand it out with the rest of them, when the mate came below, and, looking at my face, ordered me back to my berth, saying that if we went down, we should all go down together, but if I went on deck I might lay myself up for life.  This was the first word I had heard from aft; for the captain had done nothing, nor inquired how I was, since I went below.</p><P>In obedience to the mate's orders, I went back to my berth; but a more miserable night I never wish to spend.  I never felt the curse of sickness so keenly in my life.  If I could only have been on deck with the rest where something was to be done and seen and heard, where there were fellow-beings for companions in duty and danger; but to be cooped up alone in a black hole, in equal danger, but without the power to do, was the hardest trial.  Several times, in the course of the night, I got up, determined to go on deck; but the silence which showed that there was nothing doing, and the knowledge that I might make myself seriously ill, for no purpose, kept me back.  It was not easy to sleep, lying, as I did, with my head directly against the bows, which might be dashed in by an island of ice, brought down by the very next sea that struck her.  This was the only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:time I had been ill since I left Boston, and it was the worst time it could have happened.  I felt almost willing to bear the plagues of Egypt for the rest of the voyage, if I could but be well and strong for that one night.  Yet it was a dreadful night for those on deck.  A watch of eighteen hours, with wet and cold and constant anxiety, nearly wore them out; and when they came below at nine o'clock for breakfast, they almost dropped asleep on their chests, and some of them were so stiff that they could with difficulty sit down.  Not a drop of anything had been given them during the whole time (though the captain, as on the night that I was on deck, had his coffee every four hours), except that the mate stole a pot-full of coffee for two men to drink behind the galley, while he kept a lookout for the captain.  Every man had his station, and was not allowed to leave it; and nothing happened to break the monotony of the night, except once setting the main topsail, to run clear of a large island to leeward, which they were drifting fast upon.  Some of the boys got so sleepy and stupefied that they actually fell asleep at their posts; and the young third mate, Mr. Hatch, whose post was the exposed one of standing on the fore scuttle, was so stiff, when he was relieved, that he could not bend his knees to get down.  By a constant lookout, and a quick shifting of the helm, as the islands and pieces came in sight, the ship went clear of everything but a few small pieces, though daylight showed the ocean covered for miles.  At daybreak it fell a dead calm, and with the sun the fog cleared a little, and a breeze sprung up from the westward, which soon grew into a gale.  We had now a fair wind, daylight, and comparatively clear weather; yet, to the surprise of every one, the ship continued hove-to.  "Why does not he run?"  "What is the captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:about?" was asked by every one; and from questions it soon grew into complaints and mumurings.  When the daylight was so short, it was too bad to lose it, and a fair wind, too, which every one had been praying for.  As hour followed hour, and the captain showed no sign of making sail, the crew became impatient, and there was a good deal of talking and consultation together on the forecastle.  They had been beaten out with the exposure and hardship, and impatient to get out of it, and this unaccountable delay was more than they could bear in quietness, in their excited and restless state.  Some said the captain was frightened, --completely cowed by the dangers and difficulties that surrounded us, and was afraid to make sail; while others said that in his anxiety and suspense he had made a free use of brandy and opium, and was unfit for his duty.  The carpenter, who was an intelligent man, and a thorough seaman, and had great influence with the crew, came down into the forecastle, and tried to induce them to go aft and ask the captain why he did not run, or request him, in the name of all hands, to make sail.  This appeared to be a very reasonable request, and the crew agreed that if he did not make sail before noon they would go aft.  Noon came, and no sail was made.  A consultation was held again, and it was proposed to take the ship from the captain and give the command of her to the mate, who had been heard to say that if he could have his way the ship would have been half the distance to the Cape before night, --ice or no ice.  And so irritated and impatient had the crew become, that even this proposition, which was open mutiny, was entertained, and the carpenter went to his berth, leaving it tacitly understood that something serious would be done if things remained as they were many hours longer.  When the carpenter left, we talked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:it all over, and I gave my advice strongly against it.  Another of the men, too, who had known something of the kind attempted in another ship by a crew who were dissatisfied with their captain, and which was followed with serious consequences, was opposed to it.  Stimson, who soon came down, joined us, and we determined to have nothing to do with it.  By these means the crew were soon induced to give it up for the present, though they said they would not lie where they were much longer without knowing the reason.</p><P>The affair remained in this state until four o'clock, when an order came forward for all hands to come aft upon the quarter-deck.  In about ten minutes they came forward again, and the whole affair had been blown.  The carpenter, prematurely, and without any authority from the crew, had sounded the mate as to whether he would take command of the ship, and intimated an intention to displace the captain; and the mate, as in duty bound, had told the whole to the captain, who immediately sent for all hands aft.  Instead of violent measures, or, at least, an outbreak of quarter-deck bravado, threats, and abuse, which they had every reason to expect, a sense of common danger and common suffering seemed to have tamed his spirit, and begotten in him something like a humane fellow-feeling; for he received the crew in a manner quiet, and even almost kind.  He told them what he had heard, and said that he did not believe that they would try to do any such thing as was intimated; that they had always been good men, --obedient, and knew their duty, and he had no fault to find with them, and asked them what they had to complain of; said that no one could say that he was slow to carry sail (which was true enough), and that, as soon as he thought it was safe and proper, he should make sail.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:He added a few words about their duty in their present situation, and sent them forward, saying that he should take no further notice of the matter; but, at the same time, told the carpenter to recollect whose power he was in, and that if he heard another word from him he would have cause to remember him to the day of his death.</p><P>This language of the captain had a very good effect upon the crew, and they returned quietly to their duty.</p><P>For two days more the wind blew from the southward and eastward, and in the short intervals when it was fair, the ice was too thick to run; yet the weather was not so dreadfully bad, and the crew had watch and watch.  I still remained in my berth, fast recovering, yet not well enough to go safely on deck.  And I should have been perfectly useless; for, from having eaten nothing for nearly a week, except a little rice which I forced into my mouth the last day or two, I was as weak as an infant.  To be sick in a forecastle is miserable indeed.  It is the worst part of a dog's life, especially in bad weather.  The forecastle, shut up tight to keep out the water and cold air; the watch either on deck or asleep in their berths; no one to speak to; the pale light of the single lamp, swinging to and fro from the beam, so dim that one can scarcely see, much less read, by it; the water dropping from the beams and carlines and running down the sides, and the forecastle so wet and dark and cheerless, and so lumbered up with chests and wet clothes, that sitting up is worse than lying in the berth.  These are some of the evils.  Fortunately, I needed no help from any one, and no medicine; and if I had needed help I don't know where I should have found it.  Sailors are willing enough, but it is true, as is often said, --no one ships <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>420</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:for nurse on board a vessel.  Our merchant ships are always undermanned, and if one man is lost by sickness, they cannot spare another to take care of him.  A sailor is always presumed to be well, and if he's sick he's a poor dog.  One has to stand his wheel, and another his lookout, and the sooner he gets on deck again the better.</p><P>Accordingly, as soon as I could possibly go back to my duty, I put on my thick clothes and boots and southwester, and made my appearance on deck.  I had been but a few days below, yet everything looked strangely enough.  The ship was cased in ice, --decks, sides, masts, yards, and rigging.  Two close-reefed topsails were all the sail she had on, and every sail and rope was frozen so stiff in its place that it seemed as though it would be impossible to start anything.  Reduced, too, to her topmasts, she had altogether a most forlorn and crippled appearance.  The sun had come up brightly; the snow was swept off the decks and ashes thrown upon them so that we could walk, for they had been as slippery as glass.  It was, of course, too cold to carry on any ship's work, and we had only to walk the deck and keep ourselves warm.  The wind was still ahead, and the whole ocean, to the eastward, covered with islands and field-ice.  At four bells the order was given to square away the yards, and the man who came from the helm said that the captain had kept her off to N.N.E.  What could this mean?  The wildest rumors got adrift.  Some said that he was going to put into Valparaiso and winter, and others that he was going to run out of the ice and cross the Pacific, and go home round the Cape of Good Hope.  Soon, however, it leaked out, and we found that we were running for the Straits of Magellan.  The news soon spread through the ship, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and all tongues were at work talking about it.  No one on board had been through the straits; but I had in my chest an account of the passage of the ship A. J. Donelson, of New York, through those straits a few years before.  The account was given by the captain, and the representation was as favorable as possible.  It was soon read by every one on board, and various opinions pronounced.  The determination of our captain had at least this good effect; it gave us something to think and talk about, made a break in our life, and diverted our minds from the monotonous dreariness of the prospect before us.  Having made a fair wind of it, we were going off at a good rate, and leaving the thickest of the ice behind us.  This, at least, was something.</p><P>Having been long enough below to get my hands well warmed and softened, the first handling of the ropes was rather tough; but a few days hardened them, and as soon as I got my mouth open wide enough to take in a piece of salt beef and hard bread, I was all right again.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July 10th</HI>
139.sgm:.  54&deg; 10', lon. 79&deg; 07'.  This was our position at noon.  The sun was out bright; the ice was all left behind, and things had quite a cheering appearance.  We brought our wet pea-jackets and trousers on deck, and hung them up in the rigging, that the breeze and the few hours of sun might dry them a little; and, by leave of the cook, the galley was nearly filled with stockings and mittens, hung round to be dried.  Boots, too, were brought up; and, having got a little tar and slush from below, we gave them thick coats.  After dinner all hands were turned-to, get the anchors over the bows, bend on the chains, &amp;c.  The fish-tackle was got up, fish-davit rigged out, and, after two or three hours of hard and cold work, both the anchors were ready for instant use, a couple of kedges <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:got up, a hawser coiled away upon the fore-hatch, and the deep-sea-lead-line overhauled and made ready.  Our spirits returned with having something to do; and when the tackle was manned to bowse the anchor home, notwithstanding the desolation of the scene, we struck up "Cheerly, men!" in full chorus.  This pleased the mate, who rubbed his hands and cried out, "That's right, my boys; never say die!  That sounds like the old crew!" and the captain came up, on hearing the song, and said to the passenger, within hearing of the man at the wheel, "That sounds like a lively crew.  They'll have their song so long as there're enough left for a chorus!"</p><P>This preparation of the cable and anchors was for the passage of the straits; for, as they are very crooked, and with a variety of currents, it is necessary to come frequently to anchor.  This was not, by any means, a pleasant prospect; for, of all the work that a sailor is called upon to do in cold weather, there is none so bad as working the ground-tackle.  The heavy chain cables to be hauled and pulled about decks with bare hands; wet hawsers, slip-ropes, and buoy-ropes to be hauled aboard, dripping in water, which is running up your sleeves, and freezing; clearing hawse under the bows; getting under way and coming-to at all hours of the night and day, and a constant lookout for rocks and sands and turns of tides, --these are some of the disagreeables of such a navigation to a common sailor.  Fair or foul, he wants to have nothing to do with the groundtackle between port and port.  One of our hands, too, had unluckily fallen upon a half of an old newspaper which contained an account of the passage, through the straits, of a Boston brig, called, I think, the Peruvian, in which she lost every cable and anchor she had, got aground <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:twice, and arrived at Valparaiso in distress.  This was set off against the account of the A. J. Donelson, and led us to look forward with less confidence to the passage, especially as no one on board had ever been through, and we heard that the captain had no very satisfactory chars.  However, we were spared any further experience on the point; for the next day, when we must have been near the Cape of Pillars, which is the southwest point of the mouth of the straits, a gale set in from the eastward, with a heavy forg, so that we could not see half the ship's length ahead.  This, of course, put an end to the project for the present; for a thick fog and a gale blowing dead ahead are not the most favorable circumstances for the passage of difficult and dangerous straits.  This weather, too, seemed likely to last for some time, and we could not think of beating about the mouth of the straits for a week or two, waiting for a favorable opportunity; so we braced up on the larboard tack, put the ship's head due south, and stuck her off for Cape Horn again.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>IN our first attempt to double the Cape, when we came up to the latitude of it, we were nearly seventeen hundred miles to the westward, but, in running for the Straits of Magellan, we stood so far to the eastward that we made our second attempt at a distance of not more than four or five hundred miles; and we had great hopes, by this means, to run clear of the ice; thinking that the easterly gales, which had prevailed for a long time, would have driven it to the westward.  With the wind about two points free, the yards braced in a little, and two close-reefed topsails and a reefed foresail on the ship, we made great way toward the southward; and almost every watch, when we came on deck, the air seemed to grow colder, and the sea to run higher.  Still we saw no ice, and had great hopes of going clear of it altogether, when, one afternoon, about three o'clock, while we were taking a <HI REND="italics">siesta</HI>
139.sgm: during our watch below, "All hands!" was called in a loud and fearful voice.  "Tumble up here, men!--tumble up!--don't stop for your clothes--before we're upon it!"  We sprang out of our berths and hurried upon deck.  The loud, sharp voice of the captain was heard giving orders, as though for life or death, and we ran aft to the braces, not waiting to look ahead, for not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:a moment was to be lost.  The helm was hard up, the after yards shaking, and the ship in the act of wearing.  Slowly, with the stiff ropes and iced rigging, we swung the yards round, everything coming hard and with a creaking and rending sound, like pulling up a plank which has been frozen into the ice.  The ship wore round fairly, the yards were steadied, and we stood off on the other tack, leaving behind us, directly under our larboard quarter, a large ice island, peering out of the mist, and reaching high above our tops; while astern, and on either side of the island, large tracts of field-ice were dimly seen, heaving and rolling in the sea.  We were now safe, and standing to the northward; but, in a few minutes more, had it not been for the sharp lookout of the watch, we should have been fairly upon the ice, and left our ship's old bones adrift in the Southern Ocean.  After standing to the northward a few hours, we wore ship, and, the wind having hauled, we stood to the southward and eastward.  All night long a bright lookout was kept from every part of the deck; and whenever ice was seen on the one bow or the other the helm was shifted and the yards braced, and, by quick working of the ship, she was kept clear.  The accustomed cry of "Ice ahead!"--"Ice on the lee bow!"--"Another island!" in the same tones, and with the same orders following them, seemed to bring us directly back to our old position of the week before.  During our watch on deck, which was from twelve to four, the wind came out ahead, with a pelting storm of hail and sleet, and we lay hove-to, under a close-reefed fore topsail, the whole watch.  During the next watch it fell calm with a drenching rain until daybreak, when the wind came out to the westward, and the weather cleared up, and showed us the whole ocean, in the course which we should have steered, had it not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:been for the head wind and calm, completely blocked up with ice.  Here, then, our progress was stopped, and we wore ship, and once more stood to the northward and eastward; not for the Straits of Magellan, but to make another attempt to double the Cape, still farther to the eastward; for the captain was determined to get round if perseverance could do it, and the third time, he said, never failed.</p><P>With a fair wind we soon ran clear of the field-ice, and by noon had only the stray islands floating far and near upon the ocean.  The sun was out bright, the sea of a deep blue, fringed with the white foam of the waves, which ran high before a strong southwester; our solitary ship tore on through the open water as though glad to be out of her confinement; and the ice islands lay scattered here and there, of various sizes and shapes, reflecting the bright rays of the sun, and drifting slowly northward before the gale.  It was a contrast to much that we had lately seen, and a spectacle not only of beauty, but of life; for it required but little fancy to imagine these islands to be animate masses which had broken loose from the "thrilling regions of thick-ribbed ice," and were working their way, by wind and current, some alone, and some in fleets, to milder climes.  No pencil has ever yet given anything like the true effect of an iceberg.  In a picture, they are huge, uncouth masses, stuck in the sea, while their chief beauty and grandeur--their slow, stately motion, the whirling of the snow about their summits, and the fearful groaning and cracking of their parts--the picture cannot give.  This is the large iceberg, --while the small and distant islands, floating on the smooth sea, in the light of a clear day, look like little floating fairy isles of sapphire.</p><P>From a northeast course we gradually hauled to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:eastward, and after sailing about two hundred miles, which brought us as near to the western coast of Terra del Fuego as was safe, and having lost sight of the ice altogether, --for the third time we put the ship's head to the southward, to try the passage of the Cape.  The weather continued clear and cold, with a strong gale from the westward, and we were fast getting up with the latitude of the Cape, with a prospect of soon being round.  One fine afternoon, a man who had gone into the fore-top to shift the rolling tackles sung out at the top of his voice, and with evident glee, "Sail ho!"  Neither land nor sail had we seen since leaving San Diego; and only those who have traversed the length of a whole ocean alone can imagine what an excitement such an announcement produced on board.  "Sail ho!" shouted the cook, jumping out of his galley; "Sail ho!" shouted a man, throwing back the slide of the scuttle, to the watch below, who were soon out of their berths and on deck; and "Sail ho!" shouted the captain down the companion-way to the passenger in the cabin.  Beside the pleasure of seeing a ship and human beings in so desolate a place, it was important for us to speak a vessel, to learn whether there was ice to the eastward, and to ascertain the longitude; for we had no chronometer, and had been drifting about so long that we had nearly lost our reckoning; and opportunities for lunar observations are not frequent or sure in such a place as Cape Horn.  For these various reasons the excitement in our little community was running high, and conjectures were made, and everything thought of for which the captain would hail, when the man aloft sung out--"Another sail, large on the weather bow!"  This was a little odd, but so much the better, and did not shake our faith in their being sails.  At length the man in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:top hailed, and said he believed it was land, after all.  "Land in your eye!" said the mate, who was looking through the telescope; "they are ice islands, if I can see a hole through a ladder"; and a few moments showed the mate to be right; and all our expectations fled; and instead of what we most wished to see we had what we most dreaded, and what we hoped we had seen the last of.  We soon, however, left these astern, having passed within about two miles of them, and at sundown the horizon was clear in all directions.</p><P>Having a fine wind, we were soon up with and passed the latitude of the Cape, and, having stood far enough to the southward to give it a wide berth, we began to stand to the eastward, with a good prospect of being round and steering to the northward, on the other side, in a very few days.  But ill luck seemed to have lighted upon us.  Not four hours had we been standing on in this course before it fell dead calm, and in half an hour it clouded up, a few straggling blasts, with spits of snow and sleet, came from the eastward, and in an hour more we lay hove-to under a close-reefed main topsail, drifting bodily off to leeward before the fiercest storm that we had yet felt, blowing dead ahead, from the eastward.  It seemed as though the genius of the place had been roused at finding that we had nearly slipped through his fingers, and had come down upon us with tenfold fury.  The sailors said that every blast, as it shook the shrouds, and whistled through the rigging, said to the old ship, "No, you don't!"--"No, you don't!"</p><P>For eight days we lay drifting about in this manner.  Sometimes--generally towards noon--it fell calm; once or twice a round copper ball showed itself for a few moments in the place where the sun ought to have been, and a puff or two came from the westward, giving some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:hope that a fair wind had come at last.  During the first two days we made sail for these puffs, shaking the reefs out of the topsails and boarding the tacks of the courses; but finding that it only made work for us when the gale set in again, it was soon given up, and we lay-to under our close-reefs.  We had less snow and hail than when we were farther to the westward, but we had an abundance of what is worse to a sailor in cold weather,--drenching rain.  Snow is blinding, and very bad when coming upon a coast, but, for genuine discomfort, give me rain with freezing weather.  A snowstorm is exciting, and it does not wet through the clothes (a fact important to a sailor); but a constant rain there is no escaping from.  It wets to the skin, and makes all protection vain.  We had long ago run through all our dry clothes, and as sailors have no other way of drying them than by the sun, we had nothing to do but to put on those which were the least wet.  At the end of each watch, when we came below, we took off our clothes and wrung them out; two taking hold of a pair of trousers, one at each end, --and jackets in the same way.  Stockings, mittens, and all, were wrung out also, and then hung up to drain and chafe dry against the bulkheads.  Then, feeling of all our clothes, we picked out those which were the least wet, and put them on, so as to be ready for a call, and turned-in, covered ourselves up with blankets, and slept until three knocks on the scuttle and the dismal sound of "All Starbowlines ahoy!  Eight bells, there below!  Do you hear the news?"  drawled out from on deck, and the sulky answer of "Aye, aye!" from below, sent us up again.</p><P>On deck all was dark, and either a dead calm, with the rain pouring steadily down, or, more generally, a violent gale dead ahead, with rain pelting horizontally, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and occasional variations of hail and sleet; decks afloat with water swashing from side to side, and constantly wet feet, for boots could not be wrung out like drawers, and no composition could stand the constant soaking.  In fact, wet and cold feet are inevitable in such weather, and are not the least of those items which go to make up the grand total of the discomforts of a winter passage round Cape Horn.  Few words were spoken between the watches as they shifted; the wheel was relieved, the mate took his place on the quarter-deck, the lookouts in the bows; and each man had his narrow space to walk fore and aft in, or rather to swing himself forward and back in, from one belaying-pin to another, for the decks were too slippery with ice and water to allow of much walking.  To make a walk, which is absolutely necessary to pass away the time, one of us hit upon the expedient of sanding the decks; and afterwards, whenever the rain was not so violent as to wash it off, the weather-side of the quarter-deck, and a part of the waist and forecastle were sprinkled with the sand which we had on board for holystoning, and thus we made a good promenade, where we walked fore and aft, two and two, hour after hour, in our long, dull, and comfortless watches.  The bells seemed to be an hour or two apart, instead of half an hour, and an age to elapse before the welcome sound of eight bells.  The sole object was to make the time pass on.  Any change was sought for which would break the monotony of the time; and even the two hours' trick at the wheel, which came round to us in turn, once in every other watch, was looked upon as a relief.  The never-failing resource of long yarns, which eke out many a watch, seemed to have failed us now; for we had been so long together that we had heard each other's stories told over and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:over again till we had them by heart; each one knew the whole history of each of the others, and we were fairly and literally talked out.  Singing and joking we were in no humor for; and, in fact, any sound of mirth or laughter would have struck strangely upon our ears, and would not have been tolerated any more than whistling or a wind instrument.  The last resort, that of speculating upon the future, seemed now to fail us; for our discouraging situation, and the danger we were really in (as we expected every day to find ourselves drifted back among the ice), "clapped a stopper" upon all that.  From saying " <HI REND="italics">when</HI>
139.sgm: we get home," we began insensibly to alter it to " <HI REND="italics">if</HI>
139.sgm: we get home, and at last the subject was dropped by a tacit consent.</p><P>In this state of things, a new light was struck out, and a new field opened, by a change in the watch.  One of our watch was laid up for two or three days by a bad hand (for in cold weather the least cut or bruise ripens into a sore), and his place was supplied by the carpenter.  This was a windfall, and there was a contest who should have the carpenter to walk with him.  As "Chips" was a man of some little education, and he and I had had a good deal of intercourse with each other, he fell in with me in my walk.  He was a Fin, but spoke English well, and gave me long accounts of his country, --the customs, the trade, the towns, what little he knew of the government (I found he was no friend of Russia), his voyages, his first arrival in America, his marriage and courtship; he had married a country-woman of his, a dress-maker, whom he met with in Boston.  I had very little to tell him of my quiet, sedentary life at home; and in spite of our best efforts, which had protracted these yarns through five or six watches, we fairly talked each other out, and I turned him over to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:another man in the watch, and put myself upon my own resources.</p><P>I commenced a deliberate system of time-killing, which united some profit with a cheering up of the heavy hours.  As soon as I came on deck, and took my place and regular walk, I began with repeating over to myself in regular order a string of matters which I had in my memory, --the multiplication table and the tables of weights and measures; the Kanaka numerals; then the States of the Union, with their capitals; the counties of England, with their shire towns, and the kings of England in their order, and other things.  This carried me through my facts, and, being repeated deliberately, with long intervals, often eked out the first two bells.  Then came the Ten Commandments, the thirty-ninth chapter of Job, and a few other passages from Scripture.  The next in the order, which I seldom varied from, came Cowper's Castaway, which was a great favorite with me; its solemn measure and gloomy character, as well as the incident it was founded upon, making it well suited to a lonely watch at sea.  Then his lines to Mary, his address to the Jackdaw, and a short extract from Table Talk (I abounded in Cowper, for I happened to have a volume of his poems in my chest);  "Ille et nefasto" from Horace, and Goethe's Erl Ko&die;nig.  After I had got through these, I allowed myself a more general range among everything that I could remember, both in prose and verse.  In this way, with an occasional break by relieving the wheel, heaving the log, and going to the scuttle-butt for a drink of water, the longest watch was passed away; and I was so regular in my silent recitations that, if there was no interruption by ship's duty, I could tell very nearly the number of bells by my progress.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>Our watches below were no more varied than the watch on deck.  All washing, sewing, and reading was given up, and we did nothing but eat, sleep, and stand our watch, leading what might be called a Cape Horn life.  The forecastle was too uncomfortable to sit up in; and whenever we were below, we were in our berths.  To prevent the rain and the sea-water which broke over the bows from washing down, we were obliged to keep the scuttle closed, so that the forecastle was nearly air-tight.  In this little, wet, leaky hole, we were all quartered, in an atmosphere so bad that our lamp, which swung in the middle from the beams, sometimes actually burned blue, with a large circle of foul air about it.  Still, I was never in better health than after three weeks of this life.  I gained a great deal of flesh, and we all ate like horses.  At every watch when we came below, before turning in, the bread barge and beef kid were overhauled.  Each man drank his quart of hot tea night and morning, and glad enough we were to get it; for no nectar and ambrosia were sweeter to the lazy immortals than was a pot of hot tea, a hard biscuit, and a slice of cold salt beef to us after a watch on deck.  To be sure, we were mere animals, and, had this life lasted a year instead of a month, we should have been little better than the ropes in the ship.  Not a razor, nor a brush, nor a drop of water, except the rain and the spray, had come near us all the time; for we were on an allowance of fresh water; and who would strip and wash himself in salt water on deck, in the snow and ice, with the thermometer at zero?</p><P>After about eight days of constant easterly gales, the wind hauled occasionally a little to the southward, and blew hard, which, as we were well to the southward, allowed us to brace in a little, and stand on under all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:sail we could carry.  These turns lasted but a short while, and sooner or later it set in again from the old quarter; yet at each time we made something, and were gradually edging along to the eastward.  One night, after one of these shifts of the wind, and when all hands had been up a great part of the time, our watch was left on deck, with the mainsail hanging in the buntlines, ready to be set if necessary.  It came on to blow worse and worse, with hail and snow beating like so many furies upon the ship, it being as dark and thick as night could make it.  The mainsail was blowing and slatting with a noise like thunder, when the captain came on deck and ordered it to be furled.  The mate was about to call all hands, when the captain stopped him, and said that the men would be beaten out if they were called up so often; that, as our watch must stay on deck, it might as well be doing that as anything else.  Accordingly, we went upon the yard; and never shall I forget that piece of work.  Our watch had been so reduced by sickness, and by some having been left in California, that, with one man at the wheel, we had only the third mate and three beside myself to go aloft; so that at most we could only attempt to furl one yard-arm at a time.  We manned the weather yard-arm, and set to work to make a furl of it.  Our lower masts being short, and our yards very square, the sail had a head of nearly fifty feet, and a short leech, made still shorter by the deep reef which was in it, which brought the clew away out on the quarters of the yard, and made a bunt nearly as square as the mizzen royal yard.  Beside this difficulty, the yard over which we lay was cased with ice, the gaskets and rope of the foot and leech of the sail as stiff and hard as a piece of leather hose, and the sail itself about as pliable as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:though it had been made of sheets of sheathing copper.  It blew a perfect hurricane, with alternate blasts of snow, hail, and rain.  We had to <HI REND="italics">fist</HI>
139.sgm: the sail with bare hands.  No one could trust himself to mittens, for if he slipped he was a gone man.  All the boats were hoisted in on deck, and there was nothing to be lowered for him.  We had need of every finger God had given us.  Several times we got the sail upon the yard, but it blew away again before we could secure it.  It required men to lie over the yard to pass each turn of the gaskets, and when they were passed it was almost impossible to knot them so that they would hold.  Frequently we were obliged to leave off altogether and take to beating our hands upon the sail to keep them from freezing.  After some time--which seemed forever--we got the weather side stowed after a fashion, and went over to leeward for another trial.  This was still worse, for the body of the sail had been blown over to leeward, and, as the yard was a-cock-bill by the lying over of the vessel, we had to light it all up to wind-ward.  When the yard-arms were furled, the bunt was all adrift again, which made more work for us.  We got all secure at last, but we had been nearly an hour and a half upon the yard, and it seemed an age.  It had just struck five bells when we went up, and eight were struck soon after we came down.  This may seem slow work; but considering the state of everything, and that we had only five men to a sail with just half as many square yards of canvas in it as the mainsail of the Independence, sixty-gun ship, which musters seven hundred men at her quarters, it is not wonderful that we were no quicker about it.  We were glad enough to get on deck, and still more to go below.  The oldest sailor in the watch said, as he went down, "I shall never forget <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>436</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:that main yard; it beats all my going a-fishing.  Fun is fun, but furling one yard-arm of a course at a time, off Cape Horn, is no better than man-killing."</p><P>During the greater part of the next two days, the wind was pretty steady from the southward.  We had evidently made great progress, and had good hope of being soon up with the Cape, if we were not there already.  We could put but little confidence in our reckoning, as there had been no opportunities for an observation, and we had drifted too much to allow of our dead reckoning being anywhere near the mark.  If it would clear off enough to give a chance for an observation, or if we could make land, we should know where we were; and upon these, and the chances of falling in with a sail from the eastward, we depended almost entirely.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, July 22d</HI>
139.sgm:.  This day we had a steady gale from the southward, and stood on under close sail, with the yards eased a little by the weather braces, the clouds lifting a little, and showing signs of breaking away.  In the afternoon, I was below with Mr. Hatch, the third mate, and two others, filling the bread locker in the steerage from the casks, when a bright gleam of sunshine broke out and shone down the companionway, and through the skylight, lighting up everything below, and sending a warm glow through the hearts of all.  It was a sight we had not seen for weeks, --an omen, a godsend.  Even the roughest and hardest face acknowledged its influence.  Just at that moment we heard a loud shout from all parts of the deck, and the mate called out down the companion-way to the captain, who was sitting in the cabin.  What he said we could not distinguish, but the captain kicked over his chair, and was on deck at one jump.  We could not tell what it was; and, anxious as we were to know, the discipline of the ship would not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:allow of our leaving our places.  Yet, as we were not called, we knew there was no danger.  We hurried to get through with our job, when, seeing the steward's black face peering out of the pantry, Mr. Hatch hailed him to know what was the matter.  "Lan' o, to be sure, sir!  No you hear 'em sing out, 'Lan' o?'  De cap'em say 'im Cape Horn!"</p><P>This gave us a new start, and we were soon through our work and on deck; and there lay the land, fair upon the larboard beam, and slowly edging away upon the quarter.  All hands were busy looking at it, --the captain and mates from the quarter-deck, the cook from his galley, and the sailors from the forecastle; and even Mr. Nuttall, the passenger, who had kept in his shell for nearly a month, and hardly been seen by anybody, and whom we had almost forgotten was on board, came out like a butterfly, and was hopping round as bright as a bird.</p><P>The land was the island of Staten Land, just to the eastward of Cape Horn; and a more desolate-looking spot I never wish to set eyes upon, --bare, broken, and girt with rocks and ice, with here and there, between the rocks and broken hillocks, a little stunted vegetation of shrubs.  It was a place well suited to stand at the junction of the two oceans, beyond the reach of human cultivation, and encounter the blasts and snows of a perpetual winter.  Yet, dismal as it was, it was a pleasant sight to us; not only as being the first land we had seen, but because it told us that we had passed the Cape, --were in the Atlantic, --and that, with twenty-four hours of this breeze, we might bid defiance to the Southern Ocean.  It told us, too, our latitude and longitude better than any observation; and the captain now knew where we were, as well as if we were off the end of Long Wharf.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>438</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>In the general joy, Mr. Nuttall said he should like to go ashore upon the island and examine a spot which probably no human being had ever set foot upon; but the captain intimated that he would see the island, specimens and all, in--another place, before he would get out a boat or delay the ship one moment for him.</p><P>We left the land gradually astern; and at sundown had the Atlantic Ocean clear before us.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>439</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIII</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>IT is usual, in voyages round the Cape from the Pacific, to keep to the eastward of the Falkland Islands; but as there had now set in a strong, steady, and clear southwester, with every prospect of its lasting, and we had had enough of high latitudes, the captain determined to stand immediately to the northward, running inside the Falkland Islands.  Accordingly, when the wheel was relieved at eight o'clock, the order was given to keep her due north, and all hands were turned up to square away the yards and make sail.  In a moment the news ran through the ship that the captain was keeping her off, with her nose straight for Boston, and Cape Horn over her taffrail.  It was a moment of enthusiasm.  Every one was on the alert, and even the two sick men turned out to lend a hand at the halyards.  The wind was now due southwest, and blowing a gale to which a vessel close hauled could have shown no more than a single close-reefed sail; but as we were going before it, we could carry on.  Accordingly, hands were sent aloft, and a reef shaken out of the topsails, and the reefed foresail set.  When we came to mast-head the topsail yards, with all hands at the halyards, we struck up "Cheerly, men," with a chorus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:which might have been heard half-way to Staten Land.  Under her increased sail, the ship drove on through the water.  Yet she could bear it well; and the captain sang out from the quarter-deck, "Another reef out of that fore topsail, and give it to her!"  Two hands sprang aloft; the frozen reef-points and earings were cast adrift, the halyards manned, and the sail gave out her increased canvas to the gale.  All hands were kept on deck to watch the effect of the change.  It was as much as she could well carry, and with a heavy sea astern it took two men at the wheel to steer her.  She flung the foam from her bows, the spray breaking aft as far as the gangway.  She was going at a prodigious rate.  Still everything held.  Preventer braces were reeved and hauled taut, tackles got upon the backstays, and everything done to keep all snug and strong.  The captain walked the deck at a rapid stride, looked aloft at the sails, and then to windward; the mate stood in the gangway, rubbing his hands, and talking aloud to the ship, "Hurrah, old bucket! the Boston girls have got hold of the tow-rope!" and the like; and we were on the forecastle, looking to see how the spars stood it, and guessing the rate at which she was going, when the captain called out "Mr. Brown, get up the topmast studding-sail!  What she can't carry she may drag!"  The mate looked a moment; but he would let no one be before him in daring.  He sprang forward.  "Hurrah, men! rig out the topmast studding-sail boom!  Lay aloft, and I'll send the rigging up to you!"  We sprang aloft into the top; lowered a girt-line down, by which we hauled up the rigging; rove the tacks and halyards; ran out the boom and lashed it fast, and sent down the lower halyards as a preventer.  It was a clear starlight night, cold and blowing; but everybody worked with a will.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>441</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Some, indeed, looked as though they thought the "old man" was mad, but no one said a word.  We had had a new topmast studding-sail made with a reef in it, --a thing hardly ever heard of, and which the sailors had ridiculed a good deal, saying that when it was time to reef a studding-sail it was time to take it in.  But we found a use for it now; for, there being a reef in the topsail, the studding-sail could not be set without one in it also.  To be sure, a studding-sail with reefed topsails was rather a novelty; yet there was some reason in it, for if we carried that away we should lose only a sail and a boom; but a whole topsail might have carried away the mast and all.</p><P>While we were aloft the sail had been got out, bent to the yard, reefed, and ready for hoisting.  Waiting for a good opportunity, the halyards were manned and the yard hoisted fairly up to the block; but when the mate came to shake the catspaw out of the downhaul, and we began to boom-end the sail, it shook the ship to her centre.  The boom buckled up and bent like a whip-stick, and we looked every moment to see something go; but, being of the short, tough upland spruce, it bent like whalebone, and nothing could break it.  The carpenter said it was the best stick he had ever seen.  The strength of all hands soon brought the tack to the boom-end, and the sheet was trimmed down, and the preventer and the weather brace hauled taut to take off the strain.  Every rope-yarn seemed stretched to the utmost, and every thread of canvas; and with this sail added to her, the ship sprang through the water like a thing possessed.  The sail being nearly all forward, it lifted her out of the water, and she seemed actually to jump from sea to sea.  From the time her keel was laid, she had never been so driven; and had it been life or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:death with every one of us, she could not have borne another stitch of canvas.</p><P>Finding that she would bear the sail, the hands were sent below, and our watch remained on deck.  Two men at the wheel had as much as they could do to keep her within three points of her course, for she steered as wild as a young colt.  The mate walked the deck, looking at the sails, and then over the side to see the foam fly by her, --slapping his hands upon his thighs and talking to the ship, --"Hurrah, you jade, you've got the scent!--you know where you're going!"  And when she leaped over the seas, and almost out of the water, and trembled to her very keel, the spars and masts snapping and creaking, --"There she goes!--There she goes, --handsomely?--As long as she cracks she holds!"--while we stood with the rigging laid down fair for letting go, and ready to take in sail and clear away, if anything went.  At four bells we hove the log, and she was going eleven knots fairly; and had it not been for the sea from aft which sent the chip home, and threw her continually off her course, the log would have shown her to have been going somewhat faster.  I went to the wheel with a young fellow from the Kennebec, Jack Stewart, who was a good helmsman, and for two hours we had our hands full.  A few minutes showed us that our monkey-jackets must come off; and, cold as it was, we stood in our shirt-sleeves in a perspiration, and were glad enough to have it eight bells, and the wheel relieved.  We turned-in and slept as well as we could, though the sea made a constant roar under her bows, and washed over the forecastle like a small cataract.</p><P>At four o'clock we were called again.  The same sail was still on the vessel, and the gale, if there was any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:change, had increased a little.  No attempt was made to take the studding-sail in; and, indeed, it was too late now.  If we had started anything toward taking it in, either tack or halyards, it would have blown to pieces, and carried something away with it.  The only way now was to let everything stand, and if the gale went down, well and good; if not, something must go, --the weakest stick or rope first, --and then we could get it in.  For more than an hour she was driven on at such a rate that she seemed to crowd the sea into a heap before her; and the water poured over the spritsail yard as it would over a dam.  Toward daybreak the gale abated a little, and she was just beginning to go more easily along, relieved of the pressure, when Mr. Brown, determined to give her no respite, and depending upon the wind's subsiding as the sun rose, told us to get along the lower studding-sail.  This was an immense sail, and held wind enough to last a Dutchman a week, --hove-to.  It was soon ready, the boom topped up, preventer guys rove, and the idlers called up to man the halyards; yet such was still the force of the gale that we were nearly an hour setting the sail; carried away the outhaul in doing it, and came very near snapping off the swinging boom.  No sooner was it set than the ship tore on again like one mad, and began to steer wilder than ever.  The men at the wheel were puffing and blowing at their work, and the helm was going hard up and hard down, constantly.  Add to this, the gale did not lessen as the day came on, but the sun rose in clouds.  A sudden lurch threw the man from the weather wheel across the deck and against the side.  The mate sprang to the wheel, and the man, regaining his feet, seized the spokes, and they hove the wheel up just in time to save the ship from broaching to, though as she came up the studding-sail boom stood at an angle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of forty-five degrees.  She had evidently more on her than she could bear; yet it was in vain to try to take it in, --the clew-line was not strong enough, and they were thinking of cutting away, when another wide yaw and a come-to snapped the guys, and the swinging boom came in with a crash against the lower rigging.  The outhaul block gave way, and the topmast studding-sail boom bent in a manner which I never before supposed a stick could bend.  I had my eye on it when the guys parted, and it made one spring and buckled up so as to form nearly a half-circle, and sprang out again to its shape.  The clew-line gave way at the first pull; the cleat to which the halyards were belayed was wrenched off, and the sail blew round the spritsail yard and head guys, which gave us a bad job to get it in.  A half-hour served to clear all away, and she was suffered to drive on with her topmast studding-sail set, it being as much as she could stagger under.</p><P>During all this day and the next night we went on under the same sail, the gale blowing with undiminished violence; two men at the wheel all the time; watch and watch, and nothing to do but to steer and look out for the ship, and be blown along; --until the noon of the next day, --</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July 24th</HI>
139.sgm:, when we were in lat. 50&deg; 27' S., lon. 62&deg; 13' W., having made four degrees of latitude in the last twenty-four hours.  Being now to the northward of the Falkland Islands, the ship was kept off, northeast, for the equator; and with her head for the equator, and Cape Horn over her taffrail, she went gloriously on; every heave of the sea leaving the Cape astern, and every hour bringing us nearer to home and to warm weather.  Many a time, when blocked up in the ice, with everything dismal and discouraging about us, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>445</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:had we said, if we were only fairly round, and standing north on the other side, we should ask for no more; and now we had it all, with a clear sea and as much wind as a sailor could pray for.  If the best part of a voyage is the last part, surely we had all now that we could wish.  Every one was in the highest spirits, and the ship seemed as glad as any of us at getting out of her confinement.  At each change of the watch, those coming on deck asked those going below, "How does she go along?" and got, for answer, the rate, and the customary addition, "Aye! and the Boston girls have had hold of the tow-rope all the watch."  Every day the sun rose higher in the horizon, and the nights grew shorter; and at coming on deck each morning there was a sensible change in the temperature.  The ice, too, began to melt from off the rigging and spars, and, except a little which remained in the tops and round the hounds of the lower masts, was soon gone.  As we left the gale behind us, the reefs were shaken out of the topsails, and sail made as fast as she could bear it; and every time all hands were sent to the halyards a song was called for, and we hoisted away with a will.</p><P>Sail after sail was added, as we drew into fine weather; and in one week after leaving Cape Horn, the long top-gallant-masts were got up, top-gallant and royal yards crossed, and the ship restored to her fair proportions.</p><P>The Southern Cross and the Magellan Clouds settled lower and lower in the horizon; and so great was our change of latitude that each succeeding night we sank some constellation in the south, and raised another in the northern horizon.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July 31st</HI>
139.sgm:.  At noon we were in lat. 36&deg; 41' S., lon. 38&deg; 08' W.; having traversed the distance of two thousand miles, allowing for changes of course, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:nine days.  A thousand miles in four days and a half!  This is equal to steam.</p><P>Soon after eight o'clock the appearance of the ship gave evidence that this was the first Sunday we had yet had in fine weather.  As the sun came up clear, with the promise of a fair, warm day, and, as usual on Sunday, there was no work going on, all hands turned-to upon clearing out the forecastle.  The wet and soiled clothes which had accumulated there during the past month were brought up on deck; the chests moved; brooms, buckets of water, swabs, scrubbing-brushes, and scrapers carried down and applied, until the forecastle floor was as white as chalk, and everything neat and in order.  The bedding from the berths was then spread on deck, and dried and aired; the deck-tub filled with water; and a grand washing begun of all the clothes which were brought up.  Shirts, frocks, drawers, trousers, jackets, stockings, of every shape and color, wet and dirty, --many of them mouldy from having been lying a long time wet in a foul corner, --these were all washed and scrubbed out, and finally towed overboard for half an hour; and then made fast in the rigging to dry.  Wet boots and shoes were spread out to dry in sunny places on deck; and the whole ship looked like a back yard on a washing-day.  After we had done with our clothes, we began upon our persons.  A little fresh water, which we had saved from our allowance, was put in buckets, and, with soap and towels, we had what sailors call a fresh-water wash.  The same bucket, to be sure, had to go through several hands, and was spoken for by one after another, but as we rinsed off in salt water, pure from the ocean, and the fresh was used only to start the accumulated grime and blackness of five weeks, it was held of little consequence.  We soaped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>447</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:down and scrubbed one another with towels and pieces of canvas, stripping to it; and then, getting into the head, threw buckets of water upon each other.  After this came shaving, and combing, and brushing; and when, having spent the first part of the day in this way, we sat down on the forecastle, in the afternoon, with clean duck trousers and shirts on, washed, shaved, and combed, and looking a dozen shades lighter for it, reading, sewing, and talking at our ease, with a clear sky and warm sun over our heads, a steady breeze over the larboard quarter, studding-sails out alow and aloft, and all the flying kites abroad, --we felt that we had got back into the pleasantest part of a sailor's life.  At sunset the clothes were all taken down from the rigging, --clean and dry, --and stowed neatly away in our chests; and our southwesters, thick boots, Guernsey frocks, and other accompaniments of bad weather, put out of the way, we hoped, for the rest of the voyage, as we expected to come upon the coast early in the autumn.</p><P>Notwithstanding all that has been said about the beauty of a ship under full sail, there are very few who have ever seen a ship, literally, under all her sail.  A ship coming in or going out of port, with her ordinary sails, and perhaps two or three studding-sails, is commonly said to be under full sail; but a ship never has all her sail upon her, except when she has a light, steady breeze, very nearly, but not quite, dead aft, and so regular that it can be trusted, and is likely to last for some time.  Then, with all her sails, light and heavy, and studding-sails, on each side, alow and aloft, she is the most glorious moving object in the world.  Such a sight very few, even some who have been at sea a good deal, have ever beheld; for from the deck of your own vessel you cannot see her, as you would a separate object.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>448</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>One night, while we were in these tropics, I went out to the end of the flying-jib-boom upon some duty, and, having finished it, turned round, and lay over the boom for a long time, admiring the beauty of the sight before me.  Being so far out from the deck, I could look at the ship as at a separate vessel; and there rose up from the water, supported only by the small black hull, a pyramid of canvas, spreading out far beyond the hull, and towering up almost, as it seemed in the indistinct night air, to the clouds.  The sea was as still as an inland lake; the light trade-wind was gently and steadily breathing from astern; the dark blue sky was studded with the tropical stars; there was no sound but the rippling of the water under the stem; and the sails were spread out, wide and high, --the two lower studding-sails stretching on each side far beyond the deck; the topmast studding-sails like wings to the topsails; the top-gallant studding-sails spreading fearlessly out above them; still higher, the two royal studding-sails, looking like two kites flying from the same string; and, highest of all, the little skysail, the apex of the pyramid, seeming actually to touch the stars, and to be out of reach of human hand.  So quiet, too, was the sea, and so steady the breeze, that if these sails had been sculptured marble they could not have been more motionless.  Not a ripple upon the surface of the canvas; not even a quivering of the extreme edges of the sail, so perfectly were they distended by the breeze.  I was so lost in the sight that I forgot the presence of the man who came out with me, until he said (for he, too, rough old man-of-war's-man as he was, had been gazing at the show), half to himself, still looking at the marble sails, --"How quietly they do their work!"</p><P>The fine weather brought work with it, as the ship was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>449</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HOW QUIETLY THEY DO THEIR WORK</p></CAPTION>
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139.sgm:to be put in order for coming into port.  To give a landsman some notion of what is done on board ship, it may be truly said that all the first part of a passage is spent in getting a ship ready for sea, and the last part in getting her ready for port.  She is, as sailors say, like a lady's watch, always out of repair.  The new, strong sails, which we had up off Cape Horn, were to be sent down, and the old set, which were still serviceable in fine weather, to be bent in their place; all the rigging to be set up, fore and aft; the masts stayed; the standing rigging to be tarred down; lower and topmast rigging to be rattled down, fore and aft; the ship scraped inside and out, and painted; decks varnished; new and neat knots, seizings and coverings, to be fitted; and every part put in order, to look well to the owner's eye, and to all critics, on coming into Boston.  This, of course, was a long matter; and all hands were kept on deck at work for the whole of each day, during the rest of the voyage.  Sailors call this hard usage; but the ship must be in crack order; and "We're homeward bound" was the answer to everything.</p><P>We went on for several days, employed in this way, nothing remarkable occurring; and, at the latter part of the week, fell in with the southeast trades, blowing about east-southeast, which brought them nearly two points abaft our beam.  They blew strong and steady, so that we hardly started a rope, until we were beyond their latitude.  The first day of "all hands" one of those little incidents occurred, which are nothing in themselves, but are great matters in the eyes of a ship's company, as they serve to break the monotony of a voyage, and afford conversation to the crew for days afterwards.  These things, too, are often interesting, as they show the customs and states of feeling on shipboard.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>451</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>In merchant vessels, the captain gives his orders, as to the ship's work, to the mate, in a general way, and leaves the execution of them, with the particular ordering, to him.  This has become so fixed a custom that it is like a law, and is never infringed upon by a wise master, unless his mate is no seaman; in which case the captain must often oversee things for himself.  This, however, could not be said of our cheif mate, and he was very jealous of any encroachment upon the borders of his authority.</p><P>On Monday morning the captain told him to stay the fore topmast plumb.  He accordingly came forward, turned all hands to, with tackles on the stays and back-stays, coming up with the seizings, hauling here, belaying there, and full of business, standing between the knight-heads to sight the mast, --when the captain came forward, and also began to give orders.  This made confusion, and the mate left his place and went aft, saying to the captain: --</p><P>"If you come forward, sir, I'll go aft.  One is enough on the forecastle."</p><P>This produced a reply, and another fierce answer; and the words flew, fists were doubled up, and things looked threateningly.</p><P>"I'm master of this ship."</p><P>"Yes, sir, and I'm mate of her, and know my place!  My place is forward, and yours is aft."</p><P>"My place is where I choose!  I command the <HI REND="italics">whole</HI>
139.sgm: ship, and you are mate only so long as I choose!"</p><P>"Say the word, Captain Thompson, and I'm done!  I can do a man's work aboard!  I didn't come through the cabin windows!  If I'm not mate, I can be man," &amp;c., &amp;c.</p><P>This was all fun for us, who stood by, winking at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>452</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:each other, and enjoying the contest between the higher powers.  The captain took the mate aft; and they had a long talk, which ended in the mate's returning to his duty.  The captain had broken through a custom, which is a part of the common law of a ship, and without reason, for he knew that his mate was a sailor, and needed no help from him; and the mate was excusable for being angry.  Yet, in strict law, he was wrong, and the captain right.  Whatever the captain does is right, <HI REND="italics">ipso facto</HI>
139.sgm:, and any opposition to it is wrong on board ship; and every officer and man knows this when he signs the ship's articles.  It is a part of the contract.  Yet there has grown up in merchant vessels a series of customs, which have become a well-understood system, and have somewhat the force of prescriptive law.  To be sure, all power is in the captain, and the officers hold their authority only during his will, and the men are liable to be called upon for any service; yet, by breaking in upon these usages, many difficulties have occurred on board ship, and even come into courts of justice, which are perfectly unintelligible to any one not acquainted with the universal nature and force of these customs.  Many a provocation has been offered, and a system of petty oppression pursued towards men, the force and meaning of which would appear as nothing to strangers, and doubtless do appear so to many "'long-shore" juries and judges.</p><P>The next little diversion was a battle on the forecastle, one afternoon, between the mate and the steward.  They had been on bad terms the whole voyage, and had threatened a rupture several times.  Once, on the coast, the mate had seized the steward, when the steward suddenly lowered his head, and pitched it straight into Mr. Brown's stomach, butting him against <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>453</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:the galley, grunting at every shove, and calling out "You Brown!"  Mr. Brown looked white in the face, and the heaviest blows he could give seemed to have no effect on the negro's head.  He was pulled off by the second mate, and Mr. Brown was going at him again, when the captain separated them; and Mr. Brown told his tale to the captain, adding "and, <HI REND="italics">moreover, he called me Brown</HI>
139.sgm:!"  From this time "moreover, he called me Brown," became a by-word on board.  Mr. Brown went aft, saying, "I've promised it to you, and now you've got it."  But he did not seem to be sure which had "got it"; nor did we.  We knew Mr. Brown would not leave the thing in that equivocal position all the voyage, if he could help it.  This afternoon the mate asked the steward for a tumbler of water, and he refused to get it for him, saying that he waited upon nobody but the captain; and here he had the custom on his side.  But, in answering, he committed the unpardonable offence of leaving off the handle to the mate's name.  This enraged the mate, who called him a "black soger," and at it they went, clenching, striking, and rolling over and over; while we stood by, looking on and enjoying the fun.  The darkey tried to butt him, as before, but the mate got him down, and held him, the steward singing out, "Let me go, Mr. Brown, or there'll be blood spilt!"  In the midst of this, the captain came on deck, separated them, took the steward aft, and gave him half a dozen with a rope's end.  The steward tried to justify himself, but he had been heard to talk of spilling blood, and that was enough to earn him his flogging; and the captain did not choose to inquire any further.  Mr. Brown was satisfied to let him alone after that, as he had, on the whole, vindicated his superiority in the eyes of the crew.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>454</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIV</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>THE same day, I met with one of those narrow escapes which are so often happening in a sailor's life.  I had been aloft nearly all the afternoon, at work, standing for as much as an hour on the fore top-gallant yard, which was hoisted up, and hung only by the tie; when, having got through my work, I balled up my yarns, took my serving-board in my hand, laid hold deliberately of the top-gallant rigging, took one foot from the yard, and was just lifting the other, when the tie parted, and down the yard fell.  I was safe, by my hold upon the rigging, but it made my heart beat quick.  Had the tie parted one instant sooner, or had I stood an instant longer on the yard, I should inevitably have been thrown violently from the height of ninety or a hundred feet, overboard; or, what is worse, upon the deck.  However, "a miss is as good as a mile"; a saying which sailors very often have occasion to use.  An escape is always a joke on board ship.  A man would be ridiculed who should make a serious matter of it.  A sailor knows too well that his life hangs upon a thread, to wish to be often reminded of it; so, if a man has an escape, he keeps it to himself, or makes a joke of it.  I have often known a man's life to be saved by an instant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>455</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of time, or by the merest chance, --the swinging of a rope, --and no notice taken of it.  One of our boys, off Cape Horn, reefing topsails of a dark night when there were no boats to be lowered away, and where, if a man fell overboard, he must be left behind, lost his hold of the reef-point, slipped from the foot-rope, and would have been in the water in a moment, when the man who was next to him on the yard, French John, caught him by the collar of his jacket, and hauled him up upon the yard, with, "Hold on, another time, you young monkey, and be d--d to you!"--and that was all that was heard about it.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, August 7th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Lat. 25&deg; 59' S., lon. 27&deg; 3' W.  Spoke the English bark Mary Catherine, from Bahia, bound to Calcutta.  This was the first sail we had fallen in with, and the first time we had seen a human form or heard the human voice, except of our own number, for nearly a hundred days.  The very yo-ho-ing of the sailors at the ropes sounded sociably upon the ear.  She was an old, damaged-looking craft, with a high poop and top-gallant forecastle, and sawed off square, stem and stern, like a true English "tea-wagon," and with a run like a sugar-box.  She had studding-sails out alow and aloft, with a light but steady breeze, and her captain said he could not get more than four knots out of her, and thought he should have a long passage.  We were going six on an easy bowline.</p><P>The next day, about three P.M., passed a large corvette-built ship, close upon the wind, with royals and skysails set fore and aft, under English colors.  She was standing south-by-east, probably bound round Cape Horn.  She had men in her tops, and black mast-heads; heavily sparred, with sails cut to a <HI REND="italics">t</HI>
139.sgm:, and other marks of a man-of-war.  She sailed well, and presented a fine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>456</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:appearance; the proud, feudal-looking banner of St. George--the cross in a blood-red field--waving from the mizzen.  We probably were nearly as fine a sight, with our studding-sails spread far out beyond the ship on either side, and rising in a pyramid to royal studding-sails and skysails, burying the hull in canvas and looking like what the whalemen on the Banks, under their stump top-gallant-masts, call "a Cape Horn-er under a cloud of sail."</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday, August 12th</HI>
139.sgm:.  At daylight made the island of Trinidad, situated in lat. 20&deg; 28' S., lon. 29&deg; 08' W.  At twelve M., it bore N. W. 1/2 N., distant twenty-seven miles.  It was a beautiful day, the sea hardly ruffled by the light trades, and the island looking like a small blue mound rising from a field of glass.  Such a fair and peaceful-looking spot is said to have been, for a long time, the resort of a band of pirates, who ravaged the tropical seas.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday, August 18th</HI>
139.sgm:.  At three P.M., made the island of Fernando Naronha, lying in lat. 3&deg; 55' S., lon. 32&deg; 35' W.; and between twelve o'clock Friday night and one o'clock Saturday morning crossed the equator, for the fourth time since leaving Boston, in lon. 35&deg; W.; having been twenty-seven days from Staten Land, --a distance, by the courses we had made, of more than four thousand miles.</p><P>We were now to the northward of the line, and every day added to our latitude.  The Magellan Clouds, the last sign of south latitude, had long been sunk, and the North Star, the Great Bear, and the familiar signs of northern latitudes, were rising in the heavens.  Next to seeing land, there is no sight which makes one realize more that he is drawing near home, than to see the same heavens, under which he was born, shining at night over his head.  The weather was extremely hot, with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>457</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:usual tropical alternations of a scorching sun and squalls of rain; yet not a word was said in complaint of the heat, for we all remembered that only three or four weeks before we would have given our all to be where we now were.  We had a plenty of water, too, which we caught by spreading an awning, with shot thrown in to make hollows.  These rain squalls came up in the manner usual between the tropics.  A clear sky; burning, vertical sun; work going lazily on, and men about decks with nothing but duck trousers, checked shirts, and straw hats; the ship moving as lazily through the water; the man at the helm resting against the wheel, with his hat drawn over his eyes; the captain below, taking an afternoon nap; the passenger leaning over the taffrail, watching a dolphin following slowly in our wake; the sailmaker mending an old topsail on the lee side of the quarter-deck; the carpenter working at his bench, in the waist; the boys making sinnet; the spun-yarn winch whizzing round and round, and the men walking slowly fore and aft with the yarns.  A cloud rises to windward, looking a little black; the skysails are brailed down; the captain puts his head out of the companion-way, looks at the cloud, comes up, and begins to walk the deck.  The cloud spreads and comes on; the tub of yarns, the sail, and other matters, are thrown below, and the sky-light and booby-hatch put on, and the slide drawn over the forecastle.  "Stand by the royal halyards"; and the man at the wheel keeps a good weather helm, so as not to be taken aback.  The squall strikes her.  If it is light, the royal yards are clewed down, and the ship keeps on her way; but if the squall takes strong hold, the royals are clewed up, fore and aft; light hands lay aloft and furl them; top-gallant yards are clewed down, flying-jib hauled down, and the ship kept off before it, --the man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>458</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:at the helm laying out his strength to heave the wheel up to windward.  At the same time a drenching rain, which soaks one through in an instant.  Yet no one puts on a jacket or cap; for if it is only warm, a sailor does not mind a ducking; and the sun will soon be out again.  As soon as the force of the squall has passed, though to a common eye the ship would seem to be in the midst of it, --"Keep her up to her course again!"--"Keep her up, sir," (answer.)<ANCHOR ID="n34-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: --"Hoist away the top-gallant yards!"--"Run up the flying-jib!"--"Lay aloft, you boys, and loose the royals!" and all sail is on her again before she is fairly out of the squall; and she is going on in her course.  The sun comes out once more, hotter than ever, dries up the decks and the sailors' clothes; the hatches are taken off; the sail got up and spread on the quarter-deck; spun-yarn winch set a whirling again; rigging coiled up; captain goes below; and every sign of an interruption disappears.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-11">A man at the wheel is required to repeat every order given him.  A simple "Aye, aye, sir," is not enough there.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>These scenes, with occasional dead calms, lasting for hours, and sometimes for days, are fair specimens of the Atlantic tropics.  The nights were fine; and as we had all hands all day, the watch were allowed to sleep on deck at night, except the man at the wheel, and one lookout on the forecastle.  This was not so much expressly allowed as winked at.  We could do it if we did not ask leave.  If the lookout was caught napping, the whole watch was kept awake.  We made the most of this permission, and stowed ourselves away upon the rigging, under the weather rail, on the spars, under the windlass, and in all the snug corners; and frequently slept out the watch, unless we had a wheel or a lookout.  And we were glad enough to get this rest; for under the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>459</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:"all-hands" system, out of every other thirty-six hours we had only four below; and even an hour's sleep was a gain not to be neglected.  One would have thought so to have seen our watch some nights, sleeping through a heavy rain.  And often have we come on deck, and, finding a dead calm and a light, steady rain, and determined not to lose our sleep, have laid a coil of rigging down so as to keep us out of the water which was washing about decks, and stowed ourselves away upon it, covering a jacket over us, and slept as soundly as a Dutchman between two feather-beds.</p><P>For a week or ten days after crossing the line, we had the usual variety of calms, squalls, head winds, and fair winds, --at one time braced sharp upon the wind, with a taut bowline, and in an hour after slipping quietly along, with a light breeze over the taffrail, and studding-sails set out on both sides, --until we fell in with the northeast trade-winds; which we did on the afternoon of--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, August 28th</HI>
139.sgm:, in lat. 12&deg; N.  The trade-wind clouds had been in sight for a day or two previously, and we expected to take the trades every hour.  The light southerly breeze, which had been breathing languidly during the first part of the day, died away toward noon, and in its place came puffs from the northeast, which caused us to take in our studding-sails and brace up; and, in a couple of hours more, we were bowling gloriously along, dashing the spray far ahead and to leeward, with the cool, steady northeast trades freshening up the sea, and giving us as much as we could carry our royals to.  These winds blew strong and steady, keeping us generally upon a bowline, as our course was about north-northwest; and, sometimes, as they veered a little to the eastward, giving us a chance at a main top-gallant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>460</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:studding-sail, and sending us well to the northward, until--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, September 4th</HI>
139.sgm:, when they left us in lat. 22&deg; N., lon. 51&deg; W., directly under the tropic of Cancer.</p><P>For several days we lay "humbugging about" in the Horse latitudes, with all sorts of winds and weather, and occasionally, as we were in the latitude of the West Indies, --a thunder-storm.  It was hurricane month, too, and we were just in the track of the tremendous hurricane of 1830, which swept the North Atlantic, destroying almost everything before it.</p><P>The first night after the trade-winds left us, while we were in the latitude of the island of Cuba, we had a specimen of a true tropical thunder-storm.  A light breeze had been blowing from aft during the first part of the night, which gradually died away, and before midnight it was dead calm, and a heavy black cloud had shrouded the whole sky.  When our watch came on deck at twelve o'clock, it was as black as Erebus; the studding-sails were all taken in, and the royals furled; not a breath was stirring; the sails hung heavy and motionless from the yards; and the stillness and the darkness, which was almost palpable, were truly appalling.  Not a word was spoken, but every one stood as though waiting for something to happen.  In a few minutes the mate came forward, and in a low tone, which was almost a whisper, told us to haul down the jib.  The fore and mizzen top-gallant sails were taken in in the same silent manner; and we lay motionless upon the water, with an uneasy expectation, which, from the long suspense, became actually painful.  We could hear the captain walking the deck, but it was too dark to see anything more than one's hand before the face.  Soon the mate came forward again, and gave an order, in a low tone, to clew up the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>461</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:main top-gallant-sail; and so infectious was the awe and silence that the clew-lines and buntlines were hauled up without any singing out at the ropes.  An English lad and myself went up to furl it; and we had just got the bunt up, when the mate called out to us something, we did not hear what, --but, supposing it to be an order to bear-a-hand, we hurried and made all fast, and came down, feeling our way among the rigging.  When we got down we found all hands looking aloft, and there, directly over where we had been standing, upon the main top-gallant mast-head, was a ball of light, which the sailors call a corposant (corpus sancti), and which the mate had called out to us to look at.  They were all watching it carefully, for sailors have a notion that if the corposant rises in the rigging it is a sign of fair weather, but if it comes lower down there will be a storm.  Unfortunately, as an omen, it came down, and showed itself on the top-gallant yard-arm.  We were off the yard in good season, for it is held a fatal sign to have the pale light of the corposant thrown upon one's face.  As it was, the English lad did not feel comfortably at having had it so near him, and directly over his head.  In a few minutes it disappeared, and showed itself again on the fore top-gallant yard; and, after playing about for some time, disappeared once more, when the man on the forecastle pointed to it upon the flying-jib-boom-end.  But our attention was drawn from watching this, by the falling of some drops of rain, and by a perceptible increase of the darkness, which seemed suddenly to add a new shade of blackness to the night.  In a few minutes, low, grumbling thunder was heard, and some random flashes of lightning came from the southwest.  Every sail was taken in but the topsails; still, no squall appeared to be coming.  A few puffs lifted the topsails, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>462</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:but they fell again to the mast, and all was as still as ever.  A moment more, and a terrific flash and peal broke simultaneously upon us, and a cloud appeared to open directly over our heads, and let down the water in one body, like a falling ocean.  We stood motionless, and almost stufefied; yet nothing had been struck.  Peal after peal rattled over our heads, with a sound which seemed actually to stop the breath in the body, and the "speedy gleams" kept the whole ocean in a glare of light.  The violent fall of rain lasted but a few minutes, and was followed by occasional drops and showers; but the lightning continued incessant for several hours, breaking the midnight darkness with irregular and blinding flashes.  During all this time there was not a breath stirring, and we lay motionless, like a mark to be shot at, probably the only object on the surface of the ocean for miles and miles.  We stood hour after hour, until our watch was out, and we were relieved, at four o'clock.  During all this time hardly a word was spoken; no bells were struck, and the wheel was silently relieved.  The rain fell at intervals in heavy showers, and we stood drenched through and blinded by the flashes, which broke the Egyptian darkness with a brightness that seemed almost malignant; while the thunder rolled in peals, the concussion of which appeared to shake the very ocean.  A ship is not often injured by lightning, for the electricity is separated by the great number of points she presents, and the quantity of iron wich she has scattered in various parts.  The electric fluid ran over our anchors, topsail sheets and ties; yet no harm was done to us.  We went below at four o'clock, leaving things in the same state.  It is not easy to sleep when the very next flash may tear the ship in two, or set her on fire; or where the deathlike calm may be broken by the blast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>463</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:of a hurricane, taking the masts out of the ship.  But a man is no sailor if he cannot sleep when he turns-in, and turn out when he's called.  And when, at seven bells, the customary "All the larboard watch, ahoy!" brought us on deck, it was a fine, clear, sunny morning, the ship going leisurely along, with a soft breeze and all sail set.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>464</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXV</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>FROM the latitude of the West Indies, until we got inside the Bermudas, where we took the westerly and southwesterly winds, which blow steadily off the coast of the United States early in the autumn, we had every variety of weather, and two or three moderate gales, or, as sailors call them, double-reef-topsail breezes, which came on in the usual manner, and of which one is a specimen of all.  A fine afternoon; all hands at work, some in the rigging, and others on deck; a stiff breeze, and ship close upon the wind, and skysails brailed down.  Latter part of the afternoon, breeze increases, ship lies over to it, and clouds look windy.  Spray begins to fly over the forecastle, and wets the yarns the boys are knotting; --ball them up and put them below.  Mate knocks off work and clears up decks earlier than usual, and orders a man who has been employed aloft to send the royal halyards over to windward, as he comes down.  Breast back-stays hauled taut, and a tackle got upon the martingale back-rope.  One of the boys furls the mizzen royal.  Cook thinks there is going to be "nasty work," and has supper ready early.  Mate gives orders to get supper by the watch, instead of all hands, as usual.  While eating supper, hear the watch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>465</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:on deck taking in the royals.  Coming on deck, find it is blowing harder, and an ugly head sea running.  Instead of having all hands on the forecastle in the dog watch, smoking, singing, and telling yarns, one watch goes below and turns-in, saying that it's going to be an ugly night, and two hours' sleep is not to be lost.  Clouds look black and wild; wind rising, and ship working hard against a heavy head sea, which breaks over the forecastle, and washes aft through the scuppers.  Still, no more sail is taken in, for the captain is a driver, and, like all drivers, very partial to his top-gallant-sails.  A top-gallant-sail, too, makes the difference between a breeze and a gale.  When a top-gallant-sail is on a ship, it is only a breeze, though I have seen ours set over a reefed topsail, when half the bowsprit was under water, and it was up to a man's knees in the lee scuppers.  At eight bells, nothing is said about reefing the topsails, and the watch go below, with orders to "stand by for a call."  We turn-in, growling at the "old man" for not reefing the topsails when the watch was changed, but putting it off so as to call all hands, and break up a whole watch below--turn-in "all standing," and keep ourselves awake, saying there is no use in going to sleep to be waked up again.  Wind whistles on deck, and ship works hard, groaning and creaking, and pitching into a heavy head sea, which strikes against the bows, with a noise like knocking upon a rock.  The dim lamp in the forecastle swings to and fro, and things "fetch away" and go over to leeward.  "Does n't that booby of a second mate ever mean to take in his top-gallant-sails?  He'll have the sticks out of her soon," says Old Bill, who was always growling, and, like most old sailors, did not like to see a ship abused.  By and by, an order is given; "Aye, aye, sir!" from the forecastle; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>466</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:rigging is thrown down on deck; the noise of a sail is heard fluttering aloft, and the short, quick cry which sailors make when hauling upon clew-lines.  "Here comes his fore top-gallant-sail in!"  We are wide awake, and know all that's going on as well as if we were on deck.  A well-known voice is heard from the mast-head singing out to the officer of the watch to haul taut the weather brace.  "Hallo!  There's Ben Stimson aloft to furl the sail!"  Next thing, rigging is thrown down directly over our heads, and a long-drawn cry and a rattling of hanks announce that the flying-jib has come in.  The second mate holds on to the main top-gallant-sail until a heavy sea is shipped, and washes over the forecastle as though the whole ocean had come aboard; when a noise further aft shows that that sail, too, is taking in.  After this the ship is more easy for a time; two bells are struck, and we try to get a little sleep.  By and by, --bang, bang, bang, on the scuttle, --"All ha-a-ands, aho-o-y!"  We spring out of our berths, clap on a monkey-jacket and southwester, and tumble up the ladder.  Mate up before us, and on the forecastle, singing out like a roaring bull; the captain singing out on the quarter-deck, and the second mate yelling, like a hyena, in the waist.  The ship is lying over half upon her beam-ends; lee scuppers under water, and forecastle all in a smother of foam.  Rigging all let go, and washing about decks; topsail yards down upon the caps, and sails flapping and beating against the masts; and starboard watch hauling out the reef-tackles of the main topsail.  Our watch haul out the fore, and lay aloft and put two reefs into it, and reef the foresail, and race with the starboard watch to see which will mast-head its top-sail first.  All hands tally-on to the main tack, and while some are furling the jib and hoisting the staysail, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>467</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:mizzen-top-men double-reef the mizzen topsail and hoist it up.  All being made fast, --"Go below, the watch!" and we turn-in to sleep out the rest of the time, which is perhaps an hour and a half.  During all the middle, and for the first part of the morning watch, it blows as hard as ever, but toward daybreak it moderates considerably, and we shake a reef out of each topsail, and set the top-gallant-sails over them; and when the watch come up, at seven bells, for breakfast, shake the other reefs out, turn all hands to upon the halyards, get the watch-tackle upon the top-gallant sheets and halyards, set the flying-jib, and crack on to her again.</p><P>Our captain had been married only a few weeks before he left Boston, and, after an absence of over two years, it may be supposed he was not slow in carrying sail.  The mate, too, was not to be beaten by anybody; and the second mate, though he was afraid to press sail, was still more afraid of the captain, and, being between two fears, sometimes carried on longer than any of them.  We snapped off three flying-jib-booms in twenty-four hours, as fast as they could be fitted and rigged out; sprung the spritsail yard, and made nothing of studding-sail booms.  Beside the natural desire to get home, we had another reason for urging the ship on.  The scurvy had begun to show itself on board.  One man had it so badly as to be disabled and off duty, and the English lad, Ben, was in a dreadful state, and was daily growing worse.  His legs swelled and pained him so that he could not walk; his flesh lost its elasticity, so that if pressed in it would not return to its shape; and his gums swelled until he could not open his mouth.  His breath, too, became very offensive; he lost all strength and spirit; could eat nothing; grew worse every day; and, in fact, unless something was done for him, would be a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>468</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:dead man in a week, at the rate at which he was sinking.  The medicines were all, or nearly all, gone, and if we had had a chest-full, they would have been of no use, for nothing but fresh provisions and terra firma has any effect upon the scurvy.  This disease is not so common now as formerly, and is attributed generally to salt provisions, want of cleanliness, the free use of grease and fat (which is the reason of its prevalence among whalemen), and, last of all, to laziness.  It never could have been from the last cause on board our ship; nor from the second, for we were a very cleanly crew, kept our forecastle in neat order, and were more particular about washing and changing clothes than many better-dressed people on shore.  It was probably from having none but salt provisions, and possibly from our having run very rapidly into hot weather, after our having been so long in the extremest cold.</p><P>Depending upon the westerly winds which prevail off the coast in the autumn, the captain stood well to the westward, to run inside of the Bermudas, and in the hope of falling in with some vessel bound to the West Indies or the Southern States.  The scurvy had spread no further among the crew, but there was danger that it might; and these cases were bad ones.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, September 11th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Lat. 30&deg; 04' N., lon. 63&deg; 23' W.; the Bermudas bearing north-northwest, distant one hundred and fifty miles.  The next morning about ten o'clock, "Sail ho!" was cried on deck; and all hands turned up to see the stranger.  As she drew nearer, she proved to be an ordinary-looking hermaphrodite brig, standing south-southeast, and probably bound out from the Northern States to the West Indies, and was just the thing we wished to see.  She hove-to for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>469</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:us, seeing that we wished to speak her, and we ran down to her, boom-ended our studding-sails backed our main topsail, and hailed her: "Brig ahoy!"  "Hallo!"  "Where are you from, pray?"  "From New York, bound to Curacoa."  "Have you any fresh provisions to spare?"  "Aye, aye! plenty of them!"  We lowered away the quarter-boat instantly, and the captain and four hands sprang in, and were soon dancing over the water and alongside the brig.  In about half an hour they returned with half a boat-load of potatoes and onions, and each vessel filled away and kept on her course.  She proved to be the brig Solon, of Plymouth, from the Connecticut River, and last from New York, bound to the Spanish Main, with a cargo of fresh provisions, mules, tin bake-pans, and other <HI REND="italics">notions</HI>
139.sgm:.  The onions were fresh; and the mate of the brig told the men in the boat, as he passed the bunches over the side, that the girls had strung them on purpose for us the day he sailed.  We had made the mistake, on board, of supposing that a new President had been chosen the last winter, and, as we filled away, the captain hailed and asked who was President of the United States.  They answered, Andrew Jackson; but, thinking that the old General could not have been elected for a third time, we hailed again, and they answered, Jack Downing, and left us to correct the mistake at our leisure.</p><P>Our boat's crew had a laugh upon one of our number, Joe, who was vain and made the best show of everything.  The style and gentility of a ship and her crew depend upon the length and character of the voyage.  An India or China voyage always is <HI REND="italics">the thing</HI>
139.sgm:, and a voyage to the Northwest coast (the Columbia River or Russian America) for furs is romantic and mysterious, and if it takes the ship round the world, by way of the Islands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>470</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and China, it out-ranks them all.  The grave, slab-sided mate of the schooner leaned over the rail, and spoke to the men in our boat:  "Where are you from?"  Joe answered up quick, "From the Nor'west coast."  "What's your cargo?"  This was a poser; but Joe was ready with an equivoke.  "Skins," said he.  "Here and there a <HI REND="italics">horn?</HI>
139.sgm: " asked the mate, in the dryest manner.  The boat's crew laughed out, and Joe's glory faded.  <HI REND="italics">Apropos</HI>
139.sgm: of this, a man named Sam, on board the Pilgrim, used to tell a story of a mean little captain in a mean little brig, in which he sailed from Liverpool to New York, who insisted on speaking a great, homewardbound Indiaman, with her studding-sails out on both sides, sunburnt men in wide-brimmed hats on her decks, and a monkey and paroquet in her rigging, "rolling down from St. Helena."  There was no need of his stopping her to speak her, but his vanity led him to do it, and then his meanness made him so awestruck that he seemed to quail.  He called out, in a small, lisping voice, "What ship is that, pray?"  A deep-toned voice roared through the trumpet, "The Bashaw, from Canton, bound to Boston.  Hundred and ten days out!  Where are you from?"  " <HI REND="italics">Only</HI>
139.sgm: from Liverpool, <HI REND="italics">sir</HI>
139.sgm:," he lisped, in the most apologetic and subservient voice.  But the humor will be felt by those only who know the ritual of hailing at sea.  No one says "sir," and the "only" was wonderfully expressive.</p><P>It was just dinner-time when we filled away, and the steward, taking a few bunches of onions for the cabin, gave the rest to us, with a bottle of vinegar.  We carried them forward, stowed them away in the forecastle, refusing to have them cooked, and ate them raw, with our beef and bread.  And a glorious treat they were.  The freshness and crispness of the raw onion, with the earthy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>471</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:taste, give it a great relish to one who has been a long time on salt provisions.  We were ravenous after them.  It was like a scent of blood to a hound.  We ate them at every meal, by the dozen, and filled our pockets with them, to eat in our watch on deck; and the bunches, rising in the form of a cone, from the largest at the bottom, to the smallest, no larger than a strawberry, at the top, soon disappeared.  The chief use, however, of the fresh provisions, was for the men with the scurvy.  One of them was able to eat, and he soon brought himself to, by gnawing upon raw potatoes and onions; but the other, by this time, was hardly able to open his mouth, and the cook took the potatoes raw, pounded them in a mortar, and gave him the juice to drink.  This he swallowed, by the teaspoonful at a time, and rinsed it about his gums and throat.  The strong earthy taste and smell of this extract of the raw potato at first produced a shuddering through his whole frame, and, after drinking it, an acute pain, which ran through all parts of his body; but knowing by this that it was taking strong hold, he persevered, drinking a spoonful every hour or so, and holding it a long time in his mouth, until, by the effect of this drink, and of his own restored hope (for he had nearly given up in despair), he became so well as to be able to move about, and open his mouth enough to eat the raw potatoes and onions pounded into a soft pulp.  This course soon restored his appetite and strength, and in ten days after we spoke the Solon, so rapid was his recovery that, from lying helpless and almost hopeless in his berth, he was at the mast-head, furling a royal.</p><P>With a fine southwest wind we passed inside of the Bermudas, and, notwithstanding the old couplet, which was quoted again and again by those who thought we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>472</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:should have one more touch of a storm before our long absence,-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"If the Bermudas let you pass,<LB>You must beware of Hatteras,"--</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>we were to the northward of Hatteras, with good weather, and beginning to count, not the days, but the hours, to the time when we should be at anchor in Boston harbor.</p><P>Our ship was in fine order, all hands having been hard at work upon her, from daylight to dark, every day but Sunday from the time we got into warm weather on this side the Cape.</p><P>It is a common notion with landsmen that a ship is in her finest condition when she leaves port to enter upon her voyage, and that she comes home, after a long absence,-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"With over-weathered ribs and ragged sails;<LB>Lean, rent, and beggared by the strumpet wind."</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>But so far from that, unless a ship meets with some accident, or comes upon the coast in the dead of winter, when work cannot be done upon the rigging, she is in her finest order at the end of the voyage.  When she sails from port, her rigging is generally slack; the masts need staying; the decks and sides are black and dirty from taking in cargo; riggers' seizings and overhand knots in place of nice seamanlike work; and everything, to a sailor's eye, adrift.  But on the passage home the fine weather between the tropics is spent in putting the ship in the neatest order.  No merchant vessel looks better than an Indiaman, or a Cape Horn-er, after a long voyage, and captains and mates stake their reputation for seamanship upon the appearance of their ships <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>473</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:when they haul into the dock.  All our standing rigging, fore and aft, was set up and tarred, the masts stayed, the lower and topmast rigging rattled down (or up, as the fashion now is); and so careful were our officers to keep the ratlines taut and straight, that we were obliged to go aloft upon the ropes and shearpoles with which the rigging was swifted in; and these were used as jury ratlines until we got close upon the coast.  After this the ship was scraped, inside and out, decks, masts, booms, and all; a stage being rigged outside, upon which we scraped her down to the water-line, pounding the rust off the chains, bolts, and fastenings.  Then, taking two days of calm under the line, we painted her on the outside, giving her open ports in her streak, and finishing off the nice work upon the stern, where sat Neptune in his car, holding his trident, drawn by sea horses; and retouched the gilding and coloring of the cornucopia which oramented her billet-head.  The inside was then painted, from the skysail truck to the waterways, --the yards, black; mast-heads and tops, white; monkey-rail, black, white, and yellow; bulwarks, green; plank-shear, white; waterways, lead-color, &amp;c., &amp;c.  The anchors and ring-bolts, and other iron work, were blackened with coal-tar; and the steward was kept at work, polishing the brass of the wheel, bell, capstan, &amp;c.  The cabin, too, was scraped, varnished, and painted; and the forecastle scraped and scrubbed, there being no need of paint and varnish for Jack's quarters.  The decks were then scraped and varnished, and everything useless thrown overboard; among which, the empty tar barrels were set on fire and thrown overboard, of a dark night, and left blazing astern, lighting up the ocean for miles.  Add to all this labor the neat work upon the rigging, --the knots, flemish-eyes, splices, seizings, coverings, pointings, and graffings which show <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>474</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:a ship in crack order.  The last preparation, and which looked still more like coming into port, was getting the anchors over the bows, bending the cables, rowsing the hawsers up from between decks, and overhauling the deep-sea lead-line.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursday, September 15th</HI>
139.sgm:.  This morning the temperature and peculiar appearance of the water, the quantities of gulf-weed floating about, and a bank of clouds lying directly before us, showed that we were on the border of the Gulf Stream.  This remarkable current, running northeast, nearly across the ocean, is almost constantly shrouded in clouds and is the region of storms and heavy seas.  Vessels often run from a clear sky and light wind, with all sail, at once into a heavy sea and cloudy sky, with double-reefed topsails.  A sailor told me that, on a passage from Gibraltar to Boston, his vessel neared the Gulf Stream with a light breeze, clear sky, and studding-sails out, alow and aloft; while before it was a long line of heavy, black clouds, lying like a bank upon the water, and a vessel coming out of it, under double-reefed topsails, and with royal yards sent down.  As they drew near, they began to take in sail after sail, until they were reduced to the same condition; and, after twelve or fourteen hours of rolling and pitching in a heavy sea, before a smart gale, they ran out of the bank on the other side, and were in fine weather again, and under their royals and skysails.  As we drew into it, the sky became cloudy, the sea high, and everything had the appearance of the going off, or the coming on, of a storm.  It was blowing no more than a stiff breeze; yet the wind being northeast, which is directly against the course of the current, made an ugly, chopping sea, which heaved and pitched the vessel about, so that we were obliged to send down the royal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>475</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:yards, and to take in our light sails.  At noon, the thermometer, which had been repeatedly lowered into the water, showed the temperature to be seventy; which was considerably above that of the air, --as is always the case in the centre of the Stream.  A lad who had been at work at the royal-mast-head came down upon deck, and took a turn round the long-boat; and, looking pale, said he was so sick that he could stay aloft no longer, but was ashamed to acknowledge it to the officer.  He went up again, but soon gave out and came down, and leaned over the rail, "as sick as a lady passenger."  He had been to sea several years, and had, he said, never been sick before.  He was made so by the irregular pitching motion of the vessel, increased by the height to which he had been above the hull, which is like the fulcrum of the leyer.  An old sailor, who was at work on the top-gallant yard, said he felt disagreeably all the time, and was glad, when his job was done, to get down into the top, or upon deck.  Another hand was sent to the royal-mast-head, who stayed nearly an hour, but gave up.  The work must be done, and the mate sent me.  I did very well for some time, but began at length to feel very unpleasantly, though I never had been sick since the first two days from Boston, and had been in all sorts of weather and situations.  Still, I kept my place, and did not come down, until I had got through my work, which was more than two hours.  The ship certainly never acted so before.  She was pitched and jerked about in all manner of ways; the sails seeming to have no steadying power over her.  The tapering points of the masts made various curves against the sky overhead, and sometimes, in one sweep of an instant, described an arc of more than forty-five degrees, bringing up with a sudden jerk, which made it necessary to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>476</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:hold on with both hands, and then sweeping off in another long, irregular curve.  I was not positively sick, and came down with a look of indifference, yet was not unwilling to get upon the comparative <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
139.sgm: of the deck.  A few hours more carried us through, and when we saw the sun go down, upon our larboard beam, in the direction of the continent of North America, we had left the banks of dark, stormy clouds astern, in the twilight.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>477</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVI</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, <HI REND="italics">September 16th</HI>
139.sgm:.  Lat. 38&deg; N., lon. 69&deg; 00' W.  A fine southwest wind; every hour carrying us nearer in toward the land.  All hands on deck at the dog watch, and nothing talked about but our getting in; where we should make the land; whether we should arrive before Sunday; going to church; how Boston would look; friends; wages paid; and the like.  Every one was in the best spirits; and, the voyage being nearly at an end, the strictness of discipline was relaxed, for it was not necessary to order in a cross tone what all were ready to do with a will.  The differences and quarrels which a long voyage breeds on board a ship were forgotten, and every one was friendly; and two men, who had been on the eve of a fight half the voyage, were laying out a plan together for a cruise on shore.  When the mate came forward, he talked to the men, and said we should be on George's Bank before tomorrow noon; and joked with the boys, promising to go and see them, and to take them down to Marblehead in a coach.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, 17th</HI>
139.sgm:.  The wind was light all day, which kept us back somewhat; but a fine breeze springing up at nightfall, we were running fast in toward the land.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>478</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:At six o'clock we expected to have the ship hove-to for soundings, as a thick fog, coming up, showed we were near them; but no order was given, and we kept on our way.  Eight o'clock came, and the watch went below, and, for the whole of the first hour the ship was driving on, with studding-sails out, alow and aloft, and the night as dark as a pocket.  At two bells the captain came on deck, and said a word to the mate, when the studding-sails were hauled into the tops, or boom-ended, the after yards backed, the deep-sea-lead carried forward, and everything got ready for sounding.  A man on the spritsail yard with the lead, another on the cat-head with a handful of the line coiled up, another in the fore chains, another in the waist, and another in the main chains, each with a quantity of the line coiled away in his hand.  "All ready there, forward?"--"Aye, aye, sir!"--"He-e-ave!"--"Watch! ho! watch!" sings out the man on the spritsail yard, and the heavy lead drops into the water.  "Watch! ho! watch!" bawls the man on the cat-head, as the last fake of the coil drops from his hand, and "Watch! ho! watch!" is shouted by each one as the line falls from his hold, until it comes to the mate, who tends the lead, and has the line in coils on the quarter-deck.  Eighty fathoms and no bottom!  A depth as great as the height of St. Peters!  The line is snatched in a block upon the swifter, and three or four men haul it in and coil it away.  The after yards are braced full, the studding-sails hauled out again, and in a few minutes more, the ship had her whole way upon her.  At four bells backed again, hove the lead, and--soundings! at sixty fathoms!  Hurrah for Yankee land!  Hand over hand we hauled the lead in, and the captain, taking it to the light, found black mud on the bottom.  Studding-sails taken in; after yards <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>479</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:filled, and ship kept on under easy sail all night, the wind dying away.</p><P>The soundings on the American coast are so regular that a navigator knows as well where he has made land by the soundings, as he would by seeing the land.  Black mud is the soundings of Block Island.  As you go toward Nantucket, it changes to a dark sand; then, sand and white shells; and on George's Banks, white sand; and so on.  As our soundings showed us to be off Block Island, our course was due east, to Nantucket Shoals and the South Channel; but the wind died away and left us becalmed in a thick fog, in which we lay the whole of Sunday.  At noon of--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, 18th</HI>
139.sgm:, Block Island bore, by calculation, N.W. 1/4 W. fifteen miles; but the fog was so thick all day that we could see nothing.</p><P>Having got through the ship's duty, and washed and changed our clothes, we went below, and had a fine time overhauling our chests, laying aside the clothes we meant to go ashore in, and throwing overboard all that were worn out and good for nothing.  Away went the woollen caps in which we had carried hides upon our heads, for sixteen months, on the coast of California; the duck frocks for tarring down rigging; and the worn-out and darned mittens and patched woollen trousers which had stood the tug of Cape Horn.  We hove them overboard with a good will; for there is nothing like being quit of the very last appendages, remnants, and mementos of our hard fortune.  We got our chests all ready for going ashore; ate the last "duff" we expected to have on board the ship Alert; and talked as confidently about matters on shore as though our anchor were on the bottom.</p><P>"Who'll go to church with me a week from to-day?"</p><P>"I will," says Jack; who said aye to everything.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>480</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>"Go away, salt water!" says Tom.  "As soon as I get both legs ashore, I'm going to shoe my heels, and button my ears behind me, and start off into the bush, a straight course, and not stop till I'm out of the sight of salt water!"</p><P>"Oh! belay that!  If you get once moored, stem and stern, in old Barnes's grog-shop, with a coal fire ahead and the bar under your lee, you won't see daylight for three weeks!"</p><P>"No!"  says Tom, "I'm going to knock off grog and go and board at the Home, and see if they won't ship me for a deacon!"</p><P>"And I," says Bill, "am going to buy a quadrant and ship for navigator of a Hingham packet!"</p><P>Harry White swore he would take rooms at the Tremont House and set up for a gentleman; he knew his wages would hold out for two weeks or so.</p><P>These and the like served to pass the time while we were lying waiting for a breeze to clear up the fog and send us on our way.</p><P>Toward night a moderate breeze sprang up; the fog, however, continuing as thick as before; and we kept on to the eastward.  About the middle of the first watch, a man on the forecastle sang out, in a tone which showed that there was not a moment to be lost, --"Hard up the helm!" and a great ship loomed up out of the fog, coming directly down upon us.  She luffed at the same moment, and we just passed each other, our spanker boom grazing over her quarter.  The officer of the deck had only time to hail, and she answered, as she went into the fog again, something about Bristol.  Probably a whaleman from Bristol, Rhode Island, bound out.  The fog continued through the night, with a very light breeze, before which we ran to the eastward, literally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>481</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:feeling our way along.  The lead was heaved every two hours, and the gradual change from black mud to sand showed that we were approaching Nantucket South Shoals.  On Monday morning, the increased depth and dark-blue color of the water, and the mixture of shells and white sand which we brought up, upon sounding, showed that we were in the channel, and nearing George's; accordingly, the ship's head was put directly to the northward, and we stood on, with perfect confidence in the soundings, though we had not taken an observation for two days, nor seen land; and the difference of an eighth of a mile out of the way might put us ashore.  Throughout the day a provokingly light wind prevailed, and at eight o'clock, a small fishing schooner, which we passed, told us we were nearly abreast of Chatham lights.  Just before midnight, a light land-breeze sprang up, which carried us well along; and at four o'clock, thinking ourselves to the northward of Race Point, we hauled upon the wind and stood into the bay, west-northwest, for Boston light, and began firing guns for a pilot.  Our watch went below at four o'clock, but could not sleep, for the watch on deck were banging away at the guns every few minutes.  And indeed, we cared very little about it, for we were in Boston Bay; and if fortune favored us, we could all "sleep in" the next night, with nobody to call the watch every four hours.</p><P>We turned out, of our own will, at daybreak, to get a sight of land.  In the gray of the morning, one or two small fishing smacks peered out of the mist; and when the broad day broke upon us, there lay the low sandhills of Cape Cod over our larboard quarter, and before us the wide waters of Massachusetts Bay, with here and there a sail gliding over its smooth surface.  As we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>482</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:drew in toward the mouth of the harbor, as toward a focus, the vessels began to multiply, until the bay seemed alive with sails gliding about in all directions; some on the wind, and others before it, as they were bound to or from the emporium of trade and centre of the bay.  It was a stirring sight for us, who had been months on the ocean without seeing anything but two solitary sails; and over two years without seeing more than the three or four traders on an almost desolate coast.  There were the little coasters, bound to and from the various towns along the south shore, down in the bight of the bay, and to the eastward; here and there a square-rigged vessel standing out to seaward; and, far in the distance, beyond Cape Ann, was the smoke of a steamer, stretching along in a narrow black cloud upon the water.  Every sight was full of beauty and interest.  We were coming back to our homes; and the signs of civilization and prosperity and happiness, from which we had been so long banished, were multiplying about us.  The high land of Cape Ann and the rocks and shore of Cohasset were full in sight, the light-houses standing like sentries in white before the harbors; and even the smoke from the chimneys on the plains of Hingham was seen rising slowly in the morning air.  One of our boys was the son of a bucketmaker; and his face lighted up as he saw the tops of the well-known hills which surround his native place.  About ten o'clock a little boat came bobbing over the water, and put a pilot on board, and sheered off in pursuit of other vessels bound in.  Being now within the scope of the telegraph stations, our signals were run up at the fore; and in half an hour afterwards, the owner on 'Change, or in his counting-room, knew that his ship was below; and the landlords, runners, and sharks in Ann Street learned that there was a rich prize for them down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>483</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:in the bay, --a ship from round the Horn, with a crew to be paid off with two years' wages.</p><P>The wind continuing very light, all hands were sent aloft to strip off the chafing gear; and battens, parcellings, roundings, hoops, mats, and leathers came flying from aloft, and left the rigging neat and clean, stripped of all its sea bandaging.  The last touch was put to the vessel by painting the skysail poles; and I was sent up to the fore, with a bucket of white paint and a brush, and touched her off, from the truck to the eyes of the royal rigging.  At noon we lay becalmed off the lower light-house; and, it being about slack water, we made little progress.  A firing was heard in the direction of Hingham, and the pilot said there was a review there.  The Hingham boy got wind of this, and said if the ship had been twelve hours sooner he should have been down among the soldiers, and in the booths, and having a grand time.  As it was, we had little prospect of getting in before night.  About two o'clock a breeze sprang up ahead, from the westward, and we began beating up against it.  A full-rigged brig was beating in at the same time, and we passed each other in our tacks, sometimes one and sometimes the other working to windward, as the wind and tide favored or opposed.  It was my trick at the wheel from two till four; and I stood my last helm, making between nine hundred and a thousand hours which I had spent at the helms of our two vessels.  The tide beginning to set against us, we made slow work; and the afternoon was nearly spent before we got abreast of the inner light.  In the meanwhile, several vessels were coming down, outward bound; among which, a fine, large ship, with yards squared, fair wind and fair tide, passed us like a race-horse, the men running out upon her yards to rig out the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>484</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:studding-sail booms.  Toward sundown the wind came off in flaws, sometimes blowing very stiff, so that the pilot took in the royals, and then it died away; when, in order to get us in before the tide became too strong, the royals were set again.  As this kept us running up and down the rigging, one hand was sent aloft at each mast-head, to stand by to loose and furl the sails at the moment of the order.  I took my place at the fore, and loosed and furled the royal five times between Rainsford Island and the Castle.  At one tack we ran so near to Rainsford Island that, looking down from the royal yard, the island, with its hospital buildings, nice gravelled walks, and green plats, seemed to lie directly under our yard-arms.  So close is the channel to some of these islands, that we ran the end of our flying-jib-boom over one of the outworks of the fortifications on George's Island; and had an opportunity of seeing the advantages of that point as a fortified place; for, in working up the channel, we presented a fair stem and stern, for raking, from the batteries, three or four times.  One gun might have knocked us to pieces.</p><P>We had all set our hearts upon getting up to town before night and going ashore, but the tide beginning to run strong against us, and the wind, what there was of it, being ahead, we made but little by weather-bowing the tide, and the pilot gave orders to cock-bill the anchor and overhaul the chain.  Making two long stretches, which brought us into the roads, under the lee of the Castle, he clewed up the topsails, and let go the anchor; and for the first time since leaving San Diego, --one hundred and thirty-five days, --our anchor was upon bottom.  In half an hour more, we were lying snugly, with all sails furled, safe in Boston harbor; our long voyage ended; the well-known scene about us; the dome of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>485</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:State House fading in the western sky; the lights of the city starting into sight, as the darkness came on; and at nine o'clock the clangor of the bells, ringing their accustomed peals; among which the Boston boys tried to distinguish the well-known tone of the Old South.</p><P>We had just done furling the sails, when a beautiful little pleasure-boat luffed up into the wind, under our quarter, and the junior partner of the firm to which our ship belonged, Mr. Hooper, jumped on board.  I saw him from the mizzen-topsail yard, and knew him well.  He shook the captain by the hand, and went down into the cabin, and in a few minutes came up and inquired of the mate for me.  The last time I had seen him I was in the uniform of an undergraduate of Harvard College, and now, to his astonishment, there came down from aloft a "rough alley" looking fellow, with duck trousers and red shirt, long hair, and face burnt as dark as an Indian's.  We shook hands, and he congratulated me upon my return and my appearance of health and strength, and said that my friends were all well.  He had seen some of my family a few days before.  I thanked him for telling me what I should not have dared to ask; and if-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The first bringer of unwelcome news<LB>Hath but a losing office; and his tongue<LB>Sounds ever after like a sullen bell," --</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>certainly I ought ever to remember this gentleman and his words with pleasure.</p><P>The captain went up to town in the boat with Mr. Hooper, and left us to pass another night on board ship, and to come up with the morning's tide under command of the pilot.</p><P>So much did we feel ourselves to be already at home, in anticipation, that our plain supper of hard bread and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>486</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:salt beef was barely touched; and many on board, to whom this was the first voyage, could scarcely sleep.  As for myself, by one of those anomalous changes of feeling of which we are all the subjects, I found that I was in a state of indifference for which I could by no means account.  A year before, while carrying hides on the coast, the assurance that in a twelvemonth we should see Boston made me half wild; but now that I was actually there, and in sight of home, the emotions which I had so long anticipated feeling I did not find, and in their place was a state of very nearly entire apathy.  Something of the same experience was related to me by a sailor whose first voyage was one of five years upon the Northwest Coast.  He had left home a lad, and when, after so many years of hard and trying experience, he found himself homeward bound, such was the excitement of his feelings that, during the whole passage, he could talk and think of nothing else but his arrival, and how and when he should jump from the vessel and take his way directly home.  Yet, when the vessel was made fast to the wharf and the crew dismissed, he seemed suddenly to lose all feeling about the matter.  He told me that he went below and changed his dress; took some water from the scuttle-butt and washed himself leisurely; overhauled his chest, and put his clothes all in order; took his pipe from its place, filled it, and, sitting down upon his chest, smoked it slowly for the last time.  Here he looked round upon the forecastle in which he had spent so many years, and being alone and his shipmates scattered, began to feel actually unhappy.  Home became almost a dream; and it was not until his brother (who had heard of the ship's arrival) came down into the forecastle and told him of things at home, and who were waiting there to see him, that he could realize where he was, and feel interest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>487</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:enough to put him in motion toward that place for which he had longed, and of which he had dreamed, for years.  There is probably so much of excitement in prolonged expectation that the quiet realizing of it produces a momentary stagnation of feeling as well as of effort.  It was a good deal so with me.  The activity of preparation, the rapid progress of the ship, the first making land, the coming up the harbor, and old scenes breaking upon the view, produced a mental as well as bodily activity, from which the change to a perfect stillness, when both expectation and the necessity of labor failed, left a calmness, almost an indifference, from which I must be roused by some new excitement.  And the next morning, when all hands were called, and we were busily at work, clearing the decks, and getting everything in readiness for going up to the wharves, --loading the guns for a salute, loosing the sails, and manning the windlass, --mind and body seemed to wake together.</p><P>About ten o'clock a sea-breeze sprang up, and the pilot gave orders to get the ship under way.  All hands manned the windlass, and the long-drawn "Yo, heave, ho!" which we had last heard dying away among the desolate hills of San Diego, soon brought the anchor to the bows; and, with a fair wind and tide, a bright sunny morning, royals and skysails set, ensign, streamer, signals, and pennant flying, and with our guns firing, we came swiftly and handsomely up to the city.  Off the end of the wharf, we rounded-to, and let go our anchor; and no sooner was it on the bottom than the decks were filled with people: custom-house officers; Topliff's agent, to inquire for news; others, inquiring for friends on board, or left upon the coast; dealers in grease, besieging the galley to make a bargain with the cook for his slush; "loafers" in general; and, last and chief, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>488</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:boarding-house runners, to secure their men.  Nothing can exceed the obliging disposition of these runners, and the interest they take in a sailor returned from a long voyage with a plenty of money.  Two or three of them, at different times, took me by the hand; pretended to remember me perfectly; were quite sure I had boarded with them before I sailed; were delighted to see me back; gave me their cards; had a hand-cart waiting on the wharf, on purpose to take my things up; would lend me a hand to get my chest ashore; bring a bottle of grog on board if we did not haul in immediately; and the like.  In fact, we could hardly get clear of them to go aloft and furl the sails.  Sail after sail, for the hundredth time, in fair weather and in foul, we furled now for the last time together, and came down and took the warp ashore, manned the capstan, and with a chorus which waked up half North End, and rang among the buildings in the dock, we hauled her in to the wharf.<ANCHOR ID="n36-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: The city bells were just ringing one when the last turn was made fast and the crew dismissed; and in five minutes more not a soul was left on board the good ship Alert but the old ship-keeper, who had come down from the counting-house to take charge of her.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n36-11">[Sept. 21, 1836.]</NOTE>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>[XXXVII]</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>TWENTY-FOUR YEARS AFTER</p><P>IT was in the winter of 1835-6 that the ship Alert, in the prosecution of her voyage for hides on the remote and almost unknown coast of California, floated into the vast solitude of the Bay of San Francisco.  All around was the stillness of nature.  One vessel, a Russian, lay at anchor there, but during our whole stay not a sail came or went.  Our trade was with remote Missions, which sent hides to us in launches manned by their Indians.  Our anchorage was between a small island, called Yerba Buena, and a gravel beach in a little bight or cove of the same name, formed by two small, projecting points.  Beyond, to the westward of the landing-place, were dreary sand-hills, with little grass to be seen, and few trees, and beyond them higher hills, steep and barren, their sides gullied by the rains.  Some five or six miles beyond the landing-place, to the right, was a ruinous Presidio, and some three or four miles to the left was the Mission of Dolores, as ruinous as the Presidio, almost deserted, with but few Indians attached to it, and but little property in cattle.  Over a region far beyond our sight there were no other human habitations, except <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>490</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:that an enterprising Yankee, years in advance of his time, had put up, on the rising ground above the landing, a shanty of rough boards, where he carried on a very small retail trade between the hide ships and the Indians.  Vast banks of fog, invading us from the North Pacific, drove in through the entrance, and covered the whole bay; and when they disappeared, we saw a few well-wooded islands, the sand-hills on the west, the grassy and wooded slopes on the east, and the vast stretch of the bay to the southward, where we were told lay the Missions of Santa Clara and San Jose&acute;, and still longer stretches to the northward and northeastward, where we understood smaller bays spread out, and large rivers poured in their tributes of waters.  There were no settlements on these bays or rivers, and the few ranchos and Missions were remote and widely separated.  Not only the neighborhood of our anchorage, but the entire region of the great bay, was a solitude.  On the whole coast of California there was not a light-house, a beacon, or a buoy, and the charts were made up from old and disconnected surveys by British, Russian, and Mexican voyagers.  Birds of prey and passage swooped and dived about us, wild beasts ranged through the oak groves, and as we slowly floated out of the harbor with the tide, herds of deer came to the water's edge, on the northerly side of the entrance, to gaze at the strange spectacle.</p><P>On the evening of Saturday, the 13th of August, 1859, the superb steamship Golden Gate, gay with crowds of passengers, and lighting the sea for miles around with the glare of her signal lights of red, green, and white, and brilliant with lighted salons and staterooms, bound up from the Isthmus of Panama, neared the entrance to San Francisco, the great centre of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>491</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:world-wide commerce.  Miles out at sea, on the desolate rocks of the Farallones, gleamed the powerful rays of one of the most costly and effective light-houses in the world.  As we drew in through the Golden Gate, another light-house met our eyes, and in the clear moonlight of the unbroken California summer we saw, on the right, a large fortification protecting the narrow entrance, and just before us the little island of Alcatraz confronted us, --one entire fortress.  We bore round the point toward the old anchoring-ground of the hide ships, and there, covering the sand-hills and the valleys, stretching from the water's edge to the base of the great hills, and from the old Presidio to the Mission, flickering all over with the lamps of its streets and houses, lay a city of one hundred thousand inhabitants.  Clocks tolled the hour of midnight from its steeples, but the city was alive from the salute of our guns, spreading the news that the fortnightly steamer had come, bringing mails and passengers from the Atlantic world.  Clipper ships of the largest size lay at anchor in the stream, or were girt to the wharves; and capacious high-pressure steamers, as large and showy as those of the Hudson or Mississippi, bodies of dazzling light, awaited the delivery of our mails to take their courses up the Bay, stopping at Benicia and the United States Naval Station, and then up the great tributaries--the Sacramento, San Joaquin, and Feather Rivers--to the far inland cities of Sacramento, Stockton, and Marysville.</p><P>The dock into which we drew, and the streets about it, were densely crowded with express wagons and handcarts to take luggage, coaches and cabs for passengers, and with men, --some looking out for friends among our hundreds of passengers, --agents of the press, and a greater multitude eager for newspapers and verbal intelligence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>492</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:from the great Atlantic and European world.  Through this crowd I made my way, along the well-built and well-lighted streets, as alive as by day, where boys in high-keyed voices were already crying the latest New York papers; and between one and two o'clock in the morning found myself comfortably abed in a commodious room, in the Oriental Hotel, which stood, as well as I could learn, on the filled-up cove, and not far from teh spot where we used to beach our boats from the Alert.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, August 14th</HI>
139.sgm:.  When I awoke in the morning, and looked from my windows over the city of San Francisco, with its storehouses, towers, and steeples; its court-houses, theatres, and hospitals; its daily journals; its well-filled learned professions; its fortresses and light-houses; its wharves and harbor, with their thousand-ton clipper ships, more in number than London or Liverpool sheltered that day, itself one of the capitals of the American Republic, and the sole emporium of a new world, the awakened Pacific; when I looked across the bay to the eastward, and beheld a beautiful town on the fertile, wooded shores of the Contra Costa, and steamers, large and small, the ferryboats to the Contra Costa, and capacious freighters and passenger-carriers to all parts of the great bay and its tributaries, with lines of their smoke in the horizon, --when I saw all these things, and reflected on what I once was and saw here, and what now surrounded me, I could scarcely keep my hold on reality at all, or the genuineness of anything, and seemed to myself like one who had moved in "worlds not realized."</p><P>I could not complain that I had not a choice of places of worship.  The Roman Catholics have an archbishop, a cathedral, and five or six smaller churches, French, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>493</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:German, Spanish, and English; and the Episcopalians a bishop, a cathedral, and three other churches; the Methodists and Presbyterians have three or four each, and there are Congregationalists, Baptists, a Unitarian, and other societies.  On my way to church, I met two classmates of mine at Harvard standing in a door-way, one a lawyer and the other a teacher, and made appointments for a future meeting.  A little farther on I came upon another Harvard man, a fine scholar and wit, and full of cleverness and good-humor, who invited me to go to breakfast with him at the French house, --he was a bachelor, and a late riser on Sundays.  I asked him to show me the way to Bishop Kip's church.  He hesitated, looked a little confused, and admitted that he was not as well up in certain classes of knowledge as in others, but, by a desperate guess, pointed out a wooden building at the foot of the street, which any one might have seen could not be right, and which turned out to be an African Baptist meeting-house.  But my friend had many capital points of character, and I owed much of the pleasure of my visit to his attentions.</p><P>The congregation at the Bishop's church was precisely like one you would meet in New York, Philadelphia, or Boston.  To be sure, the identity of the service makes one feel at once at home, but the people were alike, nearly all of the English race, though from all parts of the Union.  The latest French bonnets were at the head of the chief pews, and business men at the foot.  The music was without character, but there was an instructive sermon, and the church was full.</p><P>I found that there were no services at any of the Protestant churches in the afternoon.  They have two services on Sunday; at 11 A.M., and after dark.  The afternoon is spent at home, or in friendly visiting, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>494</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:teaching of Sunday Schools, or other humane and social duties.</p><P>This is as much the practice with what at home are called the strictest denominations as with any others.  Indeed, I found individuals, as well as public bodies, affected in a marked degree by a change of oceans and by California life.  One Sunday afternoon I was surprised at receiving the card of a man whom I had last known, some fifteen years ago, as a strict and formal deacon of a Congregational Society in New England.  He was a deacon still, in San Francisco, a leader in all pious works, devoted to his denomination and to total abstinence, --the same internally, but externally--what a change!  Gone was the downcast eye, the bated breath, the solemn, nonnatural voice, the watchful gait, stepping as if he felt responsible for the balance of the moral universe!  He walked with a stride, an uplifted open countenance, his face covered with beard, whiskers, and mustache, his voice strong and natural, --and, in short, he had put off the New England deacon and become a human being.  In a visit of an hour I learned much from him about the religious societies, the moral reforms, the "Dash-aways,"--total abstinence societies, which had taken strong hold on the young and wilder parts of society, --and then of the Vigilance Committee, of which he was a member, and of more secular points of interest.</p><P>In one of the parlors of the hotel, I saw a man of about sixty years of age, with his feet bandaged and resting in a chair whom somebody addressed by the name of Lies.<ANCHOR ID="n37-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: Lies! thought I, that must be the man who came across the country from Kentucky to Monterey while we lay there in the Pilgrim in 1835, and made a passage in the Alert, when he used to shoot with his rifle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>495</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:bottles hung from the top-gallant studding-sail-boom-ends.  He married the beautiful Don&tilde;a Rosali&acute;a Vallejo, sister of Don Guadalupe.  There were the old high features and sandy hair.  I put my chair beside him, and began conversation, as any one may do in California.  Yes, he was the Mr. Lies; and when I gave my name he professed at once to remember me, and spoke of my book.  I found that almost--I might perhaps say quite--every American in California had read it; for when California "broke out," as the phrase is, in 1848, and so large a portion of the Anglo-Saxon race flocked to it, there was no book upon California but mine.  Many who were on the coast at the time the book refers to, and afterwards read it, and remembered the Pilgrim and Alert, thought they also remembered me.  But perhaps more did remember me than I was inclined at first to believe, for the novelty of a collegian coming out before the mast had drawn more attention to me than I was aware of at the time.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n37-11">Pronounced <HI REND="italics">Leese</HI>
139.sgm:<P>Late in the afternoon, as there were vespers at the Roman Catholic churches, I went to that of Notre Dame des Victoires.  The congregation was French, and a sermon in French was preached by an Abbe&acute;; the music was excellent, all things airy and tasteful, and making one feel as if in one of the chapels in Paris.  The Cathedral of St. Mary, which I afterwards visited, where the Irish attend, was a contrast indeed, and more like one of our stifling Irish Catholic churches in Boston or New York, with intelligence in so small a proportion to the number of faces.  During the three Sundays I was in San Francisco, I visited three of the Episcopal churches, and the Congregational, a Chinese Mission Chapel, and on the Sabbath (Saturday) a Jewish synagogue.  The Jews are a wealthy and powerful class here.  The Chinese, too, are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>496</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:numerous, and do a great part of the manual labor and small shop-keeping, and have some wealthy mercantile houses.</p><P>It is noticeable that European Continental fashions prevail generally in this city, --French cooking, lunch at noon, and dinner at the end of the day, with <HI REND="italics">cafe&acute; noir</HI>
139.sgm: after meals, and to a great extent the European Sunday, --to all which emigrants from the United States and Great Britain seem to adapt themselves.  Some dinners which were given to me at French restaurants were, it seemed to me , --a poor judge of such matters, to be sure, --as sumptuous and as good, in dishes and wines, as I have found in Paris.  But I had a relish-maker which my friends at table did not suspect, --the remembrance of the forecastle dinners I ate here twenty-four years before.</p><P><HI REND="italics">August 17th</HI>
139.sgm:.  The customs of California are free; and any person who knows about my book speaks to me.  The newspapers have announced the arrival of the veteran pioneer of all.  I hardly walk out without meeting or making acquaintances.  I have already been invited to deliver the anniversary oration before the Pioneer Society, to celebrate the settlement of San Francisco.  Any man is qualified for election into this society who came to California before 1853.  What moderns they are!  I tell them of the time when Richardson's shanty of 1835--not his adobe house of 1836--was the only human habitation between the Mission and the Presidio, and when the vast bay, with all its tributaries and recesses, was a solitude, --and yet I am but little past forty years of age.  They point out the place where Richardson's adobe house stood, and tell me that the first court and first town council were convened in it, the first Protestant worship performed in it, and in it the first capital trial by the Vigilance Committee held.  I am taken down to the wharves, by antiquaries of a ten or twelve <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>497</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:years' range, to identify the two points, now known as Clark's and Rincon, which formed the little cove of Yerba Buena, where we used to beach our boats, --now filled up and built upon.  The island we called "Wood Island," where we spent the cold days and nights of December, in our launch, getting wood for our year's supply, is clean shorn of trees; and the bare rocks of Alcatraz Island, an entire fortress.  I have looked at the city from the water, and at the water and islands from the city, but I can see nothing that recalls the times gone by, except the venerable Mission, the ruinous Presidio, the high hills in the rear of the town, and the great stretches of the bay in all directions.</p><P>To-day I took a California horse of the old style, --the run, the loping gait, --and visited the Presidio.  The walls stand as they did, with some changes made to accommodate a small garrison of United States troops.  It has a noble situation, and I saw from it a clipper ship of the very largest class, coming through the Gate, under her fore-and-aft sails.  Thence I rode to the Fort, now nearly finished, on the southern shore of the Gate, and made an inspection of it.  It is very expensive and of the latest style.  One of the engineers here is Custis Lee, who has just left West Point at the head of his class, --a son of Colonel Robert E. Lee, who distinguished himself in the Mexican War.<ANCHOR ID="n37-12">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n37-12">This journal was of 1859 before Colonel Robert E. Lee became the celebrated General Lee in command of the Confederate forces in the Civil War.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>Another morning I ride to the Mission Dolores.  It has a strangely solitary aspect, enhanced by its surroundings of the most uncongenial, rapidly growing modernisms; the hoar of ages surrounded by the brightest, slightest, and rapidest of modern growths.  Its old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>498</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:belfries still clanged with the discordant bells, and Mass was saying within, for it is used as a place of worship for the extreme south part of the city.</p><P>In one of my walks about the wharves, I found a pile of dry hides lying by the side of a vessel.  Here was something to feelingly persuade me what I had been, to recall a past scarce credible to myself.  I stood lost in reflection.  What were these hides--what were they not?--to us, to me, a boy, twenty-four years ago?  These were our constant labor, our chief object, our almost habitual thought.  They brought us out here, they kept us here, and it was only by getting them that we could escape from the coast and return to home and civilized life.  If it had not been that I might be seen, I should have seized one, slung it over my head, walked off with it, and thrown it by the old toss--I do not believe yet a lost art--to the ground.  How they called up to my mind the months of curing at San Diego, the year and more of beach and surf work, and the steeving of the ship for home!  I was in a dream of San Diego, San Pedro, --with its hill so steep for taking up goods, and its stones so hard to our bare feet, --and the cliffs of San Juan!  All this, too, is no more!  The entire hide-business is of the past, and to the present inhabitants of California a dim tradition.  The gold discoveries drew off all men from the gathering or cure of hides, the inflowing population made an end of the great droves of cattle; and now not a vessel pursues the--I was about to say dear--the dreary, once hated business of gathering hides upon the coast, and the beach of San Diego is abandoned and its hide-houses have disappeared.  Meeting a respectable-looking citizen on the wharf, I inquired of him how the hide-trade was carried on.  "O," said he, "there is very little of it, and that is all here.  The few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>499</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:that are brought in are placed under sheds in winter, or left out on the wharf in summer, and are loaded from the wharves into the vessels alongside.  They form parts of cargoes of other materials."  I really felt too much, at the instant, to express to him the cause of my interest in the subject, and only added, "Then the old business of trading up and down the coast and curing hides for cargoes is all over?"  "O yes, sir," said he, "those old times of the Pilgrim and Alert and California, that we read about, are gone by."</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, August 20th</HI>
139.sgm:.  The steamer Senator makes regular trips up and down the coast, between San Francisco and San Diego, calling at intermediate ports.  This is my opportunity to revisit the old scenes.  She sails to-day, and I am off, steaming among the great clippers anchored in the harbor, and gliding rapidly round the point, past Alcatraz Island, the light-house, and through the fortified Golden Gate, and bending to the southward, --all done in two or three hours, which, in the Alert, under canvas, with head tides, variable winds, and sweeping currents to deal with, took us full two days.</p><P>Among the passengers I noticed an elderly gentleman, thin, with sandy hair and a face that seemed familiar.  He took off his glove and showed one shrivelled hand.  It must be he!  I went to him and said, "Captain Wilson, I believe."  Yes, that was his name.  "I knew you, sir, when you commanded the Ayacucho on this coast, in old hide-droghing times, in 1835-6."  He was quickened by this, and at once inquiries were made on each side, and we were in full talk about the Pilgrim and Alert, Ayacucho and Loriotte, the California and Lagoda.  I found he had been very much flattered by the praise I had bestowed in my book on his seamanship, especially in bringing the Pilgrim to her berth in San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>500</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Diego harbor, after she had drifted successively into the Lagoda and Loriotte, and was coming into him.  I had made a pet of his brig, the Ayacucho, which pleased him almost as much as my remembrance of his bride and their wedding, which I saw at Santa Barbara in 1836.  Don&tilde;a Ramona was now the mother of a large family, and Wilson assured me that if I would visit him at his rancho, near San Luis Obispo, I should find her still a handsome woman, and very glad to see me.  How we walked the deck together, hour after hour, talking over the old times, --the ships, the captains, the crews, the traders on shore, the ladies, the Missions, the southeasters! indeed, where could we stop?  He had sold the Ayacucho in Chili for a vessel of war, and had given up the sea, and had been for years a ranchero.  (I learned from others that he had become one of the most wealthy and respectable farmers in the State, and that his rancho was well worth visiting.)  Thompson, he said, had n't the sailor in him; and he never could laugh enough at his <HI REND="italics">fiasco</HI>
139.sgm: in San Diego, and his reception by Bradshaw.  Faucon was a sailor and a navigator.  He did not know what had become of George Marsh ( <HI REND="italics">ante</HI>
139.sgm:, pp. 255-258), except that he left him in Callao; nor could he tell me anything of handsome Bill Jackson ( <HI REND="italics">ante</HI>
139.sgm:, p. 104), nor of Captain Nye of the Loriotte.  I told him all I then knew of the ships, the masters, and the officers.  I found he had kept some run of my history, and needed little information.  Old Sen&tilde;or Noriego of Santa Barbara, he told me, was dead, and Don Carlos and Don Santiago, but I should find their children there, now in middle life.  Don&tilde;a Angustias, he said, I had made famous by my praises of her beauty and dancing, and I should have from her a royal reception.  She had been a widow, and remarried since, and had a daughter as handsome as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>501</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:herself.  The descendants of Noriego had taken the ancestral name of De la Guerra, as they were nobles of Old Spain by birth; and the boy Pablo, who used to make passages in the Alert, was now Don Pablo de la Guerra, a Senator in the State Legislature for Santa Barbara County.</p><P>The points in the country, too, we noticed, as we passed them, --Santa Cruz, San Luis Obispo, Point An&tilde;o Nuevo, the opening to Monterey, which to my disappointment we did not visit.  No; Monterey, the prettiest town on the coast, and its capital and seat of customs, had got no advantage from the great changes, was out of the way of commerce and of the travel to the mines and great rivers, and was not worth stopping at.  Point Conception we passed in the night, a cheery light gleaming over the waters from its tall light-house, standing on its outermost peak.  Point Conception!  That word was enough to recall all our experiences and dreads of gales, swept decks, topmast carried away, and the hardships of a coast service in the winter.  But Captain Wilson tells me that the climate has altered; that the southeasters are no longer the bane of the coast they once were, and that vessels now anchor inside the kelp at Santa Barbara and San Pedro all the year round.  I should have thought this owing to his spending his winters on a rancho instead of the deck of the Ayacucho, had not the same thing been told me by others.</p><P>Passing round Point Conception, and steering easterly, we opened the islands that form, with the main-land, the canal of Santa Barbara.  There they are, Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa; and there is the beautiful point, Santa Buenaventura; and there lies Santa Barbara on its plain, with its amphitheatre of high hills and distant mountains.  There is the old white Mission with its belfries, and there the town, with its one-story adobe houses, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>502</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:with here and there a two-story wooden house of later build; yet little is it altered, --the same repose in the golden sunlight and glorious climate, sheltered by its hills; and then, more remindful than anything else, there roars and tumbles upon the beach the same grand surf of the great Pacific as on the beautiful day when the Pilgrim, after her five months' voyage, dropped her weary anchors here; the same bright blue ocean, and the surf making just the same monotonous, melancholy roar, and the same dreamy town, and gleaming white Mission, as when we beached our boats for the first time, riding over the breakers with shouting Kanakas, the three small hide-traders lying at anchor in the offing.  But now we are the only vessel, and that an unromantic, sail-less, spar-less, engine-driven hulk!</p><P>I landed in the surf, in the old style, but it was not high enough to excite us, the only change being that I was somehow unaccountably a passenger, and did not have to jump overboard and steady the boat, and run her up by the gunwales.</p><P>Santa Barbara has gained but little.  I should not know, from anything I saw, that she was now a seaport of the United States, a part of the enterprising Yankee nation, and not still a lifeless Mexican town.  At the same old house, where Sen&tilde;or Noriego lived, on the piazza in front of the court-yard, where was the gay scene of the marriage of our agent, Mr. Robinson, to Don&tilde;a Anita, where Don Juan Bandini and Don&tilde;a Angustias danced, Don Pablo de la Guerra received me in a courtly fashion.  I passed the day with the family, and in walking about the place; and ate the old dinner with its accompaniments of fri&acute;joles, native olives and grapes, and native wines.  In due time I paid my respects to Don&tilde;a Angustias, and, notwithstanding what Wilson told me, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>503</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:could hardly believe that after twenty-four years there would still be so much of the enchanting woman about her.  She thanked me for the kind and, as she called them, greatly exaggerated compliments I had paid her; and her daughter told me that all travellers who came to Santa Barbara called to see her mother, and that she herself never expected to live long enough to be a belle.</p><P>Mr. Alfred Robinson, our agent in 1835-6, was here, with a part of his family.  I did not know how he would receive me, remembering what I had printed to the world about him at a time when I took little thought that the world was going to read it; but there was no sign of offence, only a cordiality which gave him, as between us, rather the advantage in <HI REND="italics">status</HI>
139.sgm:.</p><P>The people of this region are giving attention to sheep-raising, wine-making, and the raising of olives, just enough to keep the town from going backwards.</p><P>But evening is drawing on, and our boat sails tonight.  So, refusing a horse or carriage, I walk down, not unwilling to be a little early, that I may pace up and down the beach, looking off to the islands and the points, and watching the roaring, tumbling billows.  How softening is the effect of time!  It touches us through the affections.  I almost feel as if I were lamenting the passing away of something loved and dear, --the boats, the Kanakas, the hides, my old shipmates!  Death, change, distance, lend them a character which makes them quite another thing from the vulgar, wearisome toil of uninteresting, forced manual labor.</p><P>The breeze freshened as we stood out to sea, and the wild waves rolled over the red sun, on the broad horizon of the Pacific; but it is summer, and in summer there can be no bad weather in California.  Every day is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>504</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:pleasant.  Nature forbids a drop of rain to fall by day or night, or a wind to excite itself beyond a fresh summer breeze.</p><P>The next morning we found ourselves at anchor in the Bay of San Pedro.  Here was this hated, this thoroughly detested spot.  Although we lay near, I could scarce recognize the hill up which we rolled and dragged and pushed and carried our heavy loads, and down which we pitched the hides, to carry them barefooted over the rocks to the floating long-boat.  It was no longer the landing-place.  One had been made at the head of the creek, and boats discharged and took off cargoes from a mole or wharf, in a quiet place, safe from southeasters.  A tug ran to take off passengers from the steamer to the wharf, --for the trade of Los Angeles is sufficient to support such a vessel.  I got the captain to land me privately, in a small boat, at the old place by the hill.  I dismissed the boat, and, alone, found my way to the high ground.  I say found my way, for neglect and weather had left but few traces of the steep road the hide-vessels had built to the top.  The cliff off which we used to throw the hides, and where I spent nights watching them, was more easily found.  The population was doubled, that is to say, there were two houses, instead of one, on the hill.  I stood on the brow and looked out toward the offing, the Santa Catalina Island, and, nearer, the melancholy Dead Man's Island, with its painful tradition, and recalled the gloomy days that followed the flogging, and fancied the Pilgrim at anchor in the offing.  But the tug is going toward our steamer, and I must awake and be off.  I walked along the shore to the new landing-place, where were two or three store-houses and other buildings, forming a small depot; and a stage-coach, I found, went daily between this place and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>505</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Pueblo.  I got a seat on the top of the coach, to which were tackled six little less than wild California horses.  Each horse had a man at his head, and when the driver had got his reins in hand he gave the word, all the horses were let go at once, and away they went on a spring, tearing over the ground, the driver only keeping them from going the wrong way, for they had a wide, level pampa to run over the whole thirty miles to the Pueblo.  This plain is almost treeless, with no grass, at least none now in the drought of midsummer, and is filled with squirrel-holes, and alive with squirrels.  As we changed horses twice, we did not slacken our speed until we turned into the streets of the Pueblo.</p><P>The Pueblo de los Angeles I found a large and flourishing town of about twenty thousand inhabitants, with brick sidewalks, and blocks of stone or brick houses.  The three principal traders when we were here for hides in the Pilgrim and Alert are still among the chief traders of the place, --Stearns, Temple, and Warner, the two former being reputed very rich.  I dined with Mr. Stearns, now a very old man, and met there Don Juan Bandini, to whom I had given a good deal of notice in my book.  From him, as indeed from every one in this town, I met with the kindest attentions.  The wife of Don Juan, who was a beautiful young girl when we were on the coast, Don&tilde;a Refugio, daughter of Don Santiago Argu&die;ello, the commandante of San Diego, was with him, and still handsome.  This is one of several instances I have noticed of the preserving quality of the California climate.  Here, too, was Henry Mellus, who came out with me before the mast in the Pilgrim, and left the brig to be agent's clerk on shore.  He had experienced varying fortunes here, and was now married to a Mexican <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>506</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:lady, and had a family.  I dined with him, and in the afternoon he drove me round to see the vineyards, the chief objects in this region.  The vintage of last year was estimated at half a million of gallons.  Every year new square miles of ground are laid down to vineyards, and the Pueblo promises to be the centre of one of the largest wine-producing regions in the world.  Grapes are a drug here, and I found a great abundance of figs, olives, peaches, pears, and melons.  The climate is well suited to these fruits, but is too hot and dry for successful wheat crops.</p><P>Towards evening, we started off in the stage-coach, with again our relays of six mad horses, and reached the creek before dark, though it was late at night before we got on board the steamer, which was slowly moving her wheels, under way for San Diego.</p><P>As we skirted along the coast, Wilson and I recognized, or thought we did, in the clear moonlight, the rude white Mission of San Juan Capistrano, and its cliff, from which I had swung down by a pair of halyards to save a few hides, --a boy who could not be prudential, and who caught at every chance for adventure.</p><P>As we made the high point off San Diego, Point Loma, we were greeted by the cheering presence of a lighthouse.  As we swept round it in the early morning, there, before us, lay the little harbor of San Diego, its low spit of sand, where the water runs so deep; the opposite flats, where the Alert grounded in starting for home; the low hills, without trees, and almost without brush; the quiet little beach; --but the chief objects, the hide-houses, my eye looked for in vain.  They were gone, all, and left no mark behind.</p><P>I wished to be alone, so I let the other passengers go up to the town, and was quietly pulled ashore in a boat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>507</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and left to myself.  The recollections and the emotions all were sad, and only sad.</p><P>Fugit, interea fugit irreparabile tempus.</p><P>The past was real.  The present, all about me, was unreal, unnatural, repellant.  I saw the big ships lying in the stream, the Alert, the California, the Rosa, with her Italians; then the handsome Ayacucho, my favorite; the poor dear old Pilgrim, the home of hardship and hopelessness; the boats passing to and fro; the cries of the sailors at the capstan or falls; the peopled beach; the large hide-houses, with their gangs of men; and the Kanakas interspersed everywhere.  All, all were gone! not a vestige to mark where one hide-house stood.  The oven, too, was gone.  I searched for its site, and found, where I thought it should be, a few broken bricks and bits of mortar.  I alone was left of all, and how strangely was I here!  What changes to me!  Where were they all?  Why should I care for them, --poor Kanakas and sailors, the refuse of civilization, the outlaws and beachcombers of the Pacific!  Time and death seemed to transfigure them.  Doubtless nearly all were dead; but how had they died, and where?  In hospitals, in fever-climes, in dens of vice, or falling from the mast, or dropping exhausted from the wreck, -- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"When for a moment, like a drop of rain,<LB>He sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan,<LB>Without a grave, unknelled, uncoffined, and unknown."</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>The light-hearted boys are now hardened middle-aged men, if the seas, rocks, fevers, and the deadlier enemies that beset a sailor's life on shore have spared them; and the then strong men have bowed themselves, and the earth or sea has covered them.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>508</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>Even the animals are gone,--the colony of dogs, the broods of poultry, the useful horses; but the coyotes bark still in the woods, for they belong not to man, and are not touched by his changes.</p><P>I walked slowly up the hill, finding my way among the few bushes, for the path was long grown over, and sat down where we used to rest in carrying our burdens of wood, and to look out for vessels that might, though so seldom, be coming down from the windward.</p><P>To rally myself by calling to mind my own better fortune and nobler lot, and cherished surroundings at home, was impossible.  Borne down by depression, the day being yet at its noon, and the sun over the old point,--it is four miles to the town, the Presidio,--I have walked it often, and can do it once more,--I passed the familiar objects, and it seemed to me that I remembered them better than those of any other place I had ever been in;--the opening to the little cave; the low hills where we cut wood and killed rattlesnakes, and where our dogs chased the coyotes; and the black ground where so many of the ship's crew and beach-combers used to bring up on their return at the end of a liberty day, and spend the night <HI REND="italics">sub Jove</HI>
139.sgm:.</p><P>The little town of San Diego has undergone no change whatever that I can see.  It certainly has not grown.  It is still, like Santa Barbara, a Mexican town.  The four principal houses of the gente de razon--of the Bandinis, Estudillos, Argu&die;ellos, and Picos--are the chief houses now; but all the gentlemen--and their families, too, I believe--are gone.  The big vulgar shop-keeper and trader, Fitch, is long since dead; Tom Wrightington, who kept the rival pulper&acute;ia, fell from his horse when drunk, and was found nearly eaten up by coyotes; and I can scarce find a person whom I remember.  I went into a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>509</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:familiar one-story adobe house, with its piazza and earthen floor, inhabited by a respectable lower-class family by the name of Machado, and inquired if any of the family remained, when a bright-eyed middle-aged woman recognized me, for she had heard I was on board the steamer, and told me she had married a shipmate of mine, Jack Stewart, who went out as second mate the next voyage, but left the ship and married and settled here.  She said he wished very much to see me.  In a few minutes he came in, and his sincere pleasure in meeting me was extremely grateful.  We talked over old times as long as I could afford to.  I was glad to hear that he was sober and doing well.  Don&tilde;a Tomasa Pico I found and talked with.  She was the only person of the old upper class that remained on the spot, if I rightly recollect.  I found an American family here, with whom I dined,--Doyle and his wife, nice young people, Doyle agent for the great line of coaches to run to the frontier of the old States.</p><P>I must complete my acts of pious remembrance, so I take a horse and make a run out to the old Mission, where Ben Stimson and I went the first liberty day we had after we left Boston ( <HI REND="italics">ante</HI>
139.sgm:, p. 140).  All has gone to decay.  The buildings are unused and ruinous, and the large gardens show now only wild cactuses, willows, and a few olive-trees.  A fast run brings me back in time to take leave of the few I knew and who knew me, and to reach the steamer before she sails.  A last look--yes, last for life--to the beach, the hills, the low point, the distant town, as we round Point Loma and the first beams of the light-house strike out towards the setting sun.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, August 24th</HI>
139.sgm:.  At anchor at San Pedro by daylight.    But instead of being roused out of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>510</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:fore-castle to row the long-boat ashore and bring off a load of hides before breakfast, we were served with breakfast in the cabin, and again took our drive with the wild horses to the Pueblo and spent the day; seeing nearly the same persons as before, and again getting back by dark.  We steamed again for Santa Barbara, where we only lay an hour, and passed through its canal and round Point Conception, stopping at San Luis Obispo to land my friend, as I may truly call him after this long passage together, Captain Wilson, whose most earnest invitation to stop here and visit him at his rancho I was obliged to decline.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday evening, 26th August</HI>
139.sgm:, we entered the Golden Gate, passed the light-houses and forts, and clipper ships at anchor, and came to our dock, with this great city, on its high hills and rising surfaces, brilliant before us, and full of eager life.</p><P>Making San Francisco my head-quarters, I paid visits to various parts of the State, --down the Bay to Santa Clara, with its live oaks and sycamores, and its Jesuit College for boys; and San Jose&acute;, where is the best girls' school in the State, kept by the Sisters of Notre Dame, --a town now famous for a year's session of "The legislature of a thousand drinks," --and thence to the rich Almaden quicksilver mines, returning on the Contra Costa side through the rich agricultural country, with its ranchos and the vast grants of the Castro and Soto families, where farming and fruit-raising are done on so large a scale.  Another excursion was up the San Joaquin to Stockton, a town of some ten thousand inhabitants, a hundred miles from San Francisco, and crossing the Tuolumne and Stanislaus and Merced, by the little Spanish town of Hornitos, and Snelling's Tavern, at the ford of the Merced, where so many fatal fights are had.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>511</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Thence I went to Mariposa County, and Colonel Fremont's mines, and made an interesting visit to " <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
139.sgm: Colonel," as he is called all over the country, and Mrs. Fremont, a heroine equal to either fortune, the salons of Paris and the drawing-rooms of New York and Washington, or the roughest life of the remote and wild mining regions of Mariposa, --with their fine family of spirited, clever children.  After a rest there, we went on to Clark's Camp and the Big Trees, where I measured one tree ninety-seven feet in circumference without its bark, and the bark is usually eighteen inches thick; and rode through another which lay on the ground, a shell, with all the insides out, --rode through it mounted, and sitting at full height in the saddle; then to the wonderful Yo Semite Valley, --itself a stupendous miracle of nature, with its Dome, its Capitan, its walls of three thousand feet of perpendicular height, --but a valley of streams, of waterfalls, from the torrent to the mere shimmer of a bridal veil, only enough to reflect a rainbow, with their plunges of twenty-five hundred feet, or their smaller falls of eight hundred, with nothing at the base but thick mists, which form and trickle, and then run and at last plunge into the blue Merced that flows through the centre of the valley.  Back by the Coulterville trail, the peaks of Sierra Nevada in sight, across the North Fork of the Merced, by Gentry's Gulch, over hills and through can&tilde;ons, to Fremont's again, and thence to Stockton and San Francisco, --all this at the end of August, when there has been no rain for four months, and the air is clear and very hot, and the ground perfectly dry; windmills, to raise water for artifical irrigation of small patches, seen all over the landscape, while we travel through square miles of hot dust, where they tell us, and truly, that in winter and early spring we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>512</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:should be up to our knees in flowers; a country, too, where surface gold-digging is so common and unnoticed that the large, six-horse stage-coach, in which I travelled from Stockton to Hornitos, turned off in the high road for a Chinaman, who, with his pan and washer, was working up a hole which an American had abandoned, but where the minute and patient industry of the Chinaman averaged a few dollars a day.</p><P>These visits were so full of interest, with grandeurs and humors of all sorts, that I am strongly tempted to describe them.  But I remember that I am not to write a journal of a visit over the new California, but to sketch briefly the contrasts with the old spots of 1835-6, and I forbear.</p><P>How strange and eventful has been the brief history of this marvellous city, San Francisco!  In 1835 there was one board shanty.  In 1836, one adobe house on the same spot.  In 1847, a population of four hundred and fifty persons, who organized a town government.  Then came the <HI REND="italics">auri sacra fames</HI>
139.sgm:, the flocking together of many of the worst spirits of Christendom; a sudden birth of a city of canvas and boards, entirely destroyed by fire five times in eighteen months, with a loss of sixteen millions of dollars, and as often rebuilt, until it became a solid city of brick and stone, of nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants, with all the accompaniments of wealth and culture, and now (in 1859) the most quiet and well-governed city of its size in the United States.  But it has been through its season of Heaven-defying crime, violence, and blood, from which it was rescued and handed back to soberness, morality, and good government, by that peculiar invention of Anglo-Saxon Republican America, the solemn, awe-inspiring Vigilance Committee of the most grave and responsible citizens, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>513</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:the last resort of the thinking and the good, taken to only when vice, fraud, and ruffianism have intrenched themselves behind the forms of law, suffrage, and ballot, and there is no hope but in organized force, whose action must be instant and thorough, or its state will be worse than before.  A history of the passage of this city through those ordeals, and through its almost incredible financial extremes, should be written by a pen which not only accuracy shall govern, but imagination shall inspire.</p><P>I cannot pause for the civility of referring to the many kind attentions I received, and the society of educated men and women from all parts of the Union I met with; where New England, the Carolinas, Virgina, and the new West sat side by side with English, French, and German civilization.</p><P>My stay in California was interrupted by an absence of nearly four months, when I sailed for the Sandwich Islands in the noble Boston clipper ship Mastiff, which was burned at sea to the water's edge; we escaping in boats, and carried by a friendly British bark into Honolulu, whence, after a deeply interesting visit of three months in that most fascinating group of islands, with its natural and its moral wonders, I returned to San Francisco in an American whaler, and found myself again in my quarters on the morning of Sunday, December 11th, 1859.</p><P>My first visit after my return was to Sacramento, a city of about forty thousand inhabitants, more than a hundred miles inland from San Francisco, on the Sacramento, where was the capital of the State, and where were fleets of river steamers, and a large inland commerce.  Here I saw the inauguration of a Governor, Mr. Latham, a young man from Massachusetts, much my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>514</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:junior; and met a member of the State Senate, a man who, as a carpenter, repaired my father's house at home some ten years before; and two more Senators from southern California, relics of another age, --Don Andres Pico, from San Diego; and Don Pablo de la Guerra, whom I have mentioned as meeting at Santa Barbara.  I had a good deal of conversation with these gentlemen, who stood alone in an assembly of Americans, who had conquered their country, spared pillars of the past.  Don Andres had fought us at San Pazqual and Sepulveda's rancho, in 1846, and as he fought bravely, not a common thing among the Mexicans, and, indeed, repulsed Kearney, is alwasys treated with respect.  He had the satisfaction, dear to the proud Spanish heart, of making a speech before a Senate of Americans, in favor of the retention in office of an officer of our army who was wounded at San Pazqual, and whom some wretched caucus was going to displace to carry out a political job.  Don Andres's magnanimity and indignation carried the day.</p><P>My last visit in this part of the country was to a new and rich farming region, the Napa Valley, the United States Navy Yard at Mare Island, the river gold workings, and the Geysers, and old Mr. John Yount's rancho.  On board the steamer, found Mr. Edward Stanley, formerly member of Congress from North Carolina, who became my companion for the greater part of my trip.  I also met--a revival on the spot of an acquaintance of twenty years ago--Don Guadalupe Vallejo; I may say acquaintance, for although I was then before the mast, he knew my story, and, as he spoke English well, used to hold many conversations with me, when in the boat or on shore.  He received me with true earnestness, and would not hear of my passing his estate without visiting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>515</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:him.  He reminded me of a remark I made to him once, when pulling him ashore in the boat, when he was commandante at the Presidio.  I learned that the two Vallejos, Guadalupe and Salvador, owned, at an early time, nearly all Napa and Sonoma, having princely estates.  But they have not much left.  They were nearly ruined by their bargain with the State, that they would put up the public buildings if the Capital should be placed at Vallejo, then a town of some promise.  They spent $100,000, the Capital was moved there, and in two years removed to San Jose&acute; on another contract.  The town fell to pieces, and the houses, chiefly wooden, were taken down and removed.  I accepted the old gentleman's invitation so far as to stop at Vallejo to breakfast.</p><P>The United States Navy Yard, at Mare Island, near Vallejo, is large and well placed, with deep fresh water.  The old Independence, and the sloop Decatur, and two steamers were there, and they were experimenting on building a despatch boat, the Saginaw, of California timber.</p><P>I have no excuse for attempting to describe my visit through the fertile and beautiful Napa Valley, nor even, what exceeded that in interest, my visit to old John Yount at his rancho, where I heard from his own lips some of his most interesting stories of hunting and trapping and Indian fighting, during an adventurous life of forty years of such work, between our back settlements in Missouri and Arkansas, and the mountains of California, trapping the Colorado and Gila, --and his celebrated dream, thrice repeated, which led him to organize a party to go out over the mountains, that did actually rescue from death by starvation the wretched remnants of the Donner Party.</p><P>I must not pause for the dreary country of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>516</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Geysers, the screaming escapes of steam, the sulphur, the boiling caldrons of black and yellow and green, and the region of Gehenna, through which runs a quiet stream of pure water; nor for the park scenery, and captivating ranchos of the Napa Valley, where farming is done on so grand a scale, --where I have seen a man plough a furrow by little red flags on sticks, to keep his range by, until nearly out of sight, and where, the wits tell us, he returns the next day on the back furrow; a region where, at Christmas time, I have seen old strawberries still on the vines, by the side of vines in full blossom for the next crop, and grapes in the same stages, and open windows, and yet a grateful wood fire on the hearth in early morning; nor for the titanic operations of hydraulic surface mining, where large mountain streams are diverted from their ancient beds, and made to do the work, beyond the reach of all other agents, of washing out valleys and carrying away hills, and changing the whole surface of the country, to expose the stores of gold hidden for centuries in the darkness of their earthy depths.</p><P><HI REND="italics">January 10th, 1860</HI>
139.sgm:.  I am again in San Francisco, and my revisit to California is closed.  I have touched too lightly and rapidly for much impression upon the reader on my last visit into the interior; but, as I have said, in a mere continuation to a narrative of a sea-faring life on the coast, I am only to carry the reader with me on a revisit to those scenes in which the public has long manifested so gratifying an interest.  But it seemed to me that slight notices of these entirely new parts of the country would not be out of place, for they serve to put in strong contrast with the solitudes of 1835-6 the developed interior, with its mines, and agricultural wealth, and rapidly filling population, and its large cities, so far <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>517</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:from the coast, with their education, religion, arts, and trade.</p><P>On the morning of the 11th January, 1860, I passed, for the eighth time, through the Golden Gate, on my way across the delightful Pacific to the Oriental world, with its civilization three thousand years older than that I was leaving behind.  As the shores of California faded in the distance, and the summits of the Coast Range sank under the blue horizon, I bade farewell--yes, I do not doubt, forever--to those scenes which, however changed or unchanged, must always possess an ineffable interest for me.</p><P>It is time my fellow-travellers and I should part company.  But I have been requested by a great many persons to give some account of the subsequent history of the vessels and their crews, with which I had made them acquainted.  I attempt the following sketches in deference to these suggestions, and not, I trust, with any undue estimate of the general interest my narrative may have created.</p><P>Something less than a year after my return in the Alert, and when, my eyes having recovered, I was again in college life, I found one morning in the newspapers, among the arrivals of the day before, "The brig Pilgrim, Faucon, from San Diego, California."  In a few hours I was down in Ann Street, and on my way to Hackstadt's boarding-house, where I knew Tom Harris and others would lodge.  Entering the front room, I heard my name called from amid a group of blue-jackets, and several sunburned, tar-colored men came forward to speak to me.  They were, at first, a little embarrassed by the dress and style in which they had never seen me, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>518</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and one of them was calling me <HI REND="italics">Mr.</HI>
139.sgm: Dana; but I soon stopped that, and we were shipmates once more.   First, there was Tom Harris, in a characteristic occupation.  I had made him promise to come and see me when we parted in San Diego; he had got a directory of Boston, found the street and number of my father's house, and, by a study of the plan of the city, had laid out his course, and was committing it to memory.  He said he could go straight to the house without asking a question.  And so he could, for I took the book from him, and he gave his course, naming each street and turn to right or left, directly to the door.</p><P>Tom had been second mate of the Pilgrim, and had laid up no mean sum of money.  True to his resolution, he was going to England to find his mother, and he entered into the comparative advantages of taking his money home in gold or in bills, --a matter of some moment, as this was in the disastrous financial year of 1837.  He seemed to have his ideas well arranged, but I took him to a leading banker, whose advice he followed; and, declining my invitation to go up and show himself to my friends, he was off for New York that afternoon, to sail the next day for Liverpool.  The last I ever saw of Tom Harris was as he passed down Tremont Street on the sidewalk, a man dragging a hand-cart in the street by his side, on which were his voyage-worn chest, his mattress, and a box of nautical instruments.</p><P>Sam seemed to have got funny again, and he and John the Swede learned that Captain Thompson had several months before sailed in command of a ship for the coast of Sumatra, and that their chance of proceedings against him at law was hopeless.  Sam was afterwards lost in a brig off the coast of Brazil, when all hands went down.  Of John and the rest of the men I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>519</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:have never heard.  The Marblehead boy, Sam, turned out badly; and, although he had influential friends, never allowed them to improve his condition.  The old carpenter, the Fin, of whom the cook stood in such awe ( <HI REND="italics">ante</HI>
139.sgm:, p. 47), had fallen sick and died in Santa Barbara, and was buried ashore.  Jim Hall, from the Kennebec, who sailed with us before the mast, and was made second mate in Foster's place, came home chief mate of the Pilgrim.  I have often seen him since.  His lot has been prosperous, as he well deserved it should be.  He has commanded the largest ships, and, when I last saw him, was going to the Pacific coast of South America, to take charge of a line of mail steamers.  Poor, luckless Foster I have twice seen.  He came into my rooms in Boston, after I had become a barrister and my narrative had been published, and told me he was chief mate of a big ship; that he had heard I had said some things unfavorable of him in my book; that he had just bought it, and was going to read it that night, and if I had said anything unfair of him, he would punish me if he found me in State Street.  I surveyed him from head to foot, and said to him, "Foster, you were not a formidable man when I last knew you, and I don't believe you are now."  Either he was of my opinion, or thought I had spoken of him well enough, for the next (and last) time I met him he was civil and pleasant.</p><P>I believe I omitted to state that Mr. Andrew B. Amerzene, the chief mate of the Pilgrim, an estimable, kind, and trustworthy man, had a difficulty with Captain Faucon, who thought him slack, was turned off duty, and sent home with us in the Alert.  Captain Thompson, instead of giving him the place of a mate off duty, put him into the narrow between-decks, where a space, not over four feet high, had been left out among the hides, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>520</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and there compelled him to live the whole wearisome voyage, through trades and tropics, and round Cape Horn, with nothing to do, --not allowed to converse or walk with the officers, and obliged to get his grub himself from the galley, in the tin pot and kid of a common sailor.  I used to talk with him as much as I had opportunity to, but his lot was wretched, and in every way wounding to his feelings.  After our arrival, Captain Thompson was obliged to make him compensation for this treatment.  It happens that I have never heard of him since.</p><P>Henry Mellus, who had been in a counting-house in Boston, and left the forecastle, on the coast, to be agent's clerk, and whom I met, a married man, at Los Angeles in 1859, died at that place a few years ago, not having been successful in commercial life.  Ben Stimson left the sea for the fresh water and prairies, settled in Detroit as a merchant, and when I visited that city, in 1863, I was rejoiced to find him a prosperous and respected man, and the same generous-hearted shipmate as ever.</p><P>This ends the catalogue of the Pilgrim's original crew, except her first master, Captain Thompson.  He was not employed by the same firm again, and got up a voyage to the coast of Sumatra for pepper.  A cousin and classmate of mine, Mr. Channing, went as supercargo, not having consulted me as to the captain.  First, Captain Thompson got into difficulties with another American vessel on the coast, which charged him with having taken some advantage of her in getting pepper; and then with the natives, who accused him of having obtained too much pepper for his weights.  The natives seized him, one afternoon, as he landed in his boat, and demanded of him to sign an order on the supercargo for the Spanish dollars <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>521</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:that they said were due them, on pain of being imprisoned on shore.  He never failed in pluck, and now ordered his boat aboard, leaving him ashore, the officer to tell the supercargo to obey no direction except under his hand.  For several successive days and nights, his ship, the Alciope, lay in the burning sun, with rain-squalls and thunder-clouds coming over the high mountains, waiting for a word from him.  Toward evening of the fourth or fifth day he was seen on the beach, hailing for the boat.  The natives, finding they could not force more money from him, were afraid to hold him longer, and had let him go.  He sprang into the boat, urged her off with the utmost eagerness, leaped on board the ship like a tiger, his eyes flashing and his face full of blood, ordered the anchor aweigh, and the topsails set, the four guns, two on a side, loaded with all sorts of devilish stuff, and wore her round, and, keeping as close into the bamboo village as he could, gave them both broadsides, slambang into the midst of the houses and people, and stood out to sea!  As his excitement passed off, headache, languor, fever, set in, --the deadly coast-fever, contracted from the water and night-dews on shore and his maddened temper.  He ordered the ship to Penang, and never saw the deck again.  He died on the passage, and was buried at sea.  Mr. Channing, who took care of him in his sickness and delirium, caught the fever from him, but, as we gratefully remember, did not die until the ship made port, and he was under the kindly roof of a hospitable family in Penang.  The chief mate, also, took the fever, and the second mate and crew deserted; and, although the chief mate recovered and took the ship to Europe and home, the voyage was a melancholy disaster.  In a tour I made round the world in 1859-1860, of which my revisit to California was the beginning, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>522</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:I went to Penang.  In that fairy-like scene of sea and sky and shore, as beautiful as material earth can be, with its fruits and flowers of a perpetual summer, --somewhere in which still lurks the deadly fever, --I found the tomb of my kinsman, classmate, and friend. Standing beside his grave, I tried not to think that his life had been sacrificed to the faults and violence of another; I tried not to think too hardly of that other, who at least had suffered in death.</p><P>The dear old Pilgrim herself!  She was sold, at the end of this voyage, to a merchant in New Hamphshire, who employed her on short voyages, and, after a few years, I read of her total loss at sea, by fire, off the coast of North Carolina.</p><P>Captain Faucon, who took out the Alert, and brought home the Pilgrim, spent many years in command of vessels in the Indian an Chinese seas, and was in our volunteer navy during the late war, commanding several large vessels in succession, on the blockade of the Carolinas, with the rank of lieutenant.  He has now given up the sea, but still keeps it under his eye, from the piazza of his house on the most beautiful hill in the environs of Boston.  I have the pleasure of meeting him often.  Once, in speaking of the Alert's crew, in a company of gentlemen, I heard him say that that crew was exceptional; that he had passed all his life at sea, but whether before the mast or abaft, whether officer or master, he had never met such a crew, and never should expect to; and that the two officers of the Alert, long ago shipmasters, agreed with him that, for intelligence, knowledge of duty and willingness to perform it, pride in the ship, her appearance and sailing, and in absolute reliableness, they never had seen their equal.  Especially he spoke of his favorite seaman, French John.  John, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>523</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:after a few more years at sea, became a boatman, and kept his neat boat at the end of Granite Wharf, and was ready to take all, but delighted to take any of us of the old Alert's crew, to sail down the harbor.  One day Captain Faucon went to the end of the wharf to board a vessel in the stream, and hailed for John.  There was no response, and his boat was not there.  He inquired, of a boatman near, where John was.  The time had come that comes to all!  There was no loyal voice to respond to the familiar call, the hatches had closed over him, his boat was sold to another, and he had left not a trace behind.  We could not find out even where he was buried.</p><P>Mr. Richard Brown, of Marblehead, our chief mate in the Alert, commanded many of our noblest ships in the European trade, a general favorite.  A few years ago, while stepping on board his ship from the wharf, he fell from the plank into the hold and was killed.  If he did not actually die at sea, at least he died as a sailor, --he died on board ship.</p><P>Our second mate, Evans, no one liked or cared for, and I know nothing of him, except that I once saw him in court, on trial for some alleged petty tyranny towards his men,  --still a subaltern officer.</p><P>The third mate, Mr. Hatch, a nephew of one of the owners, though only a lad on board the ship, went out chief mate the next voyage, and rose soon to command some of the finest clippers in the California and India trade, under the new order of things,  --a man of character, good judgment, and no little cultivation.</p><P>Of the other men before the mast in the Alert, I know nothing of peculiar interest.  When visiting, with a party of ladies and gentlemen, one of our largest line-of-battle ships, we were escorted about the decks by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>524</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:a midshipman, who was explaining various matters on board, when one of the party came to me and told me that there was an old sailor there with a whistle round his neck, who looked at me and said of the officer, " <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
139.sgm: can't show <HI REND="italics">him </HI>
139.sgm: anything aboard a ship."  I found him out, and, looking into his sunburnt face, covered with hair, and his little eyes drawn up into the smallest passages for light, --like a man who had peered into hundreds of northeasters, --there was old "Sails" of the Alert, clothed in all the honors of boatswain's-mate.  We stood aside, out of the <HI REND="italics">cun</HI>
139.sgm: of the officers, and had a good talk over old times.  I remember the contempt with which he turned on his heel to conceal his face, when the midshipman (who was a grown youth) could not tell the ladies the length of a fathom, and said it depended on circumstances.  Notwithstanding his advice and consolation to "Chips," in the steerage of the Alert, and his story of his runaway wife and the flag-bot-tomed chairs ( <HI REND="italics">ante</HI>
139.sgm:, p. 318), he confessed to me that he had tried marriage again, and had a little tenement just outside the gate of the yard.</p><P>Harry Bennett, the man who had the palsy, and was unfeelingly left on shore when the Alert sailed, came home in the Pilgrim, and I had the pleasure of helping to get him into the Massachusetts General Hospital.  When he had been there about a week, I went to see him in his ward, and asked him how he got along.  "Oh! first-rate usage, sir; not a hand's turn to do, and all your grub brought to you, sir."  This is a sailor's paradise, --not a hand's turn to do, and all your grub brought to you.  But an earthly paradise may pall.  Bennett got tired of in-doors and stillness, and was soon out again, and set up a stall, covered with canvas, at the end of one of the bridges, where he could see all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>525</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:passers-by, and turn a penny by cakes and ale.  The stall in time disappeared, and I could learn nothing of his last end, if it has come.</p><P>Of the lads who, beside myself, composed the gig's crew, I know something of all but one.  Our bright-eyed, quick-witted little cockswain, from the Boston public schools, Harry May, or Harry Bluff, as he was called, with all his songs and gibes, went the road to ruin as fast as the usual means could carry him.  Nat, the "bucket-maker," grave and sober, left the seas, and, I believe, is a hack-driver in his native town, although I have not had the luck to see him since the Alert hauled into her berth at the North End.</p><P>One cold winter evening, a pull at the bell, and a woman in distress wished to see me.  Her poor son George, --George Somerby, --"you remember him, sir; he was a boy in the Alert; he always talks of you, --he is dying in my poor house."  I went with her, and in a small room, with the most scanty furniture, upon a mattress on the floor, --emaciated, ashy pale, with hollow voice and sunken eyes, --lay the boy George, whom we took out a small, bright boy of fourteen from a Boston public school, who fought himself into a position on board ship ( <HI REND="italics">ante</HI>
139.sgm:, p. 295), and whom we brought home a tall, athletic youth, that might have been the pride and support of his widowed mother.  There he lay, not over nineteen years of age, ruined by every vice a sailor's life absorbs.  He took my hand in his wasted feeble fingers, and talked a little with his hollow, death-smitten voice.  I was to leave town the next day for a fortnight's absence, and whom had they to see to them?  The mother named her landlord, --she knew no one else able to do much for them.  It was the name of a physician of wealth and high social position, well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>526</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:known in the city as the owner of many small tenements, and of whom hard things had been said as to his strictness in collecting what he thought his dues.  Be that as it may, my memory associates him only with ready and active beneficence.  His name has since been known the civilized world over, from his having been the victim of one of the most painful tragedies in the records of the criminal law.<ANCHOR ID="n37-13">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: I tried the experiment of calling upon him; and, having drawn him away from the cheerful fire, sofa, and curtains of a luxurious parlor, I told him this simple tale of woe, of one of his tenants, unknown to him even by name.  He did not hesitate; and I well remember how, in that biting, eager air, and at a late hour, he drew his cloak about his thin and bent form, and walked off with me across the Common, and to the South End, nearly two miles of an exposed walk, to the scene of misery.  He gave his full share, and more, of kindness and material aid; and, as George's mother told me, on my return, had with medical aid and stores, and a clergyman, made the boy's end as comfortable and hopeful as possible.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n37-13">[Dr. George Parkman.]</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>The Alert made two more voyages to the coast of California, successful, and without a mishap, as usual, and was sold by Messrs. Bryant and Sturgis, in 1843, to Mr. Thomas W. Williams, a merchant of New London, Connecticut, who employed her in the whale-trade in the Pacific.  She was as lucky and prosperous there as in the merchant service.  When I was at the Sandwich Islands in 1860, a man was introduced to me as having commanded the Alert on two cruises, and his friends told me that he was as proud of it as if he had commanded a frigate.</p><P>I am permitted to publish the following letter from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>527</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:owner of the Alert, giving her later record and her historic end, --captured and burned by the rebel Alabama:--</p><P>NEW LONDON, MARCH 17, 1868.</p><P>RICHARD H. DANA, ESQ.:</p><P>Dear Sir, --I am happy to acknowledge the receipt of your favor of the 14th inst., and to answer your inquiries about the good ship Alert.  I bought her of Messrs. Bryant and Sturgis, in the year 1843, for my firm of Williams and Haven, for a whaler, in which business she was successful until captured by the rebel steamer Alabama, September, 1862, making a period of more than nineteen years, during which she took and delivered at New London upwards of twenty-five thousand barrels of whale and sperm oil.  She sailed last from this port, August 30, 1862, for Hurd's Island (the newly discovered land south of Kerguelen's), commanded by Edwin Church, and was captured and burned on the 9th of September following, only ten days out, near or close to the Azores, with thirty barrels of sperm oil on board, and while her boats were off in pursuit of whales.</p><P>The Alert was a favorite ship with all owners, officers, and men who had anything to do with her; and I may add almost all who heard her name asked if that was the ship the man went in who wrote the book called "Two Years before the Mast"; and thus we feel, with you, no doubt, a sort of sympathy at her loss, and that, too, in such a manner, and by wicked acts of our own countrymen.</p><P>My partner, Mr. Haven, sends me a note from the office this P.M., saying that he had just found the last log-book, and would send up this evening a copy of the last entry on it; and if there should be anything of importance I will enclose it to you, and if you have any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>528</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:further inquiries to put, I will, with great pleasure, endeavor to answer them.</p><P>Remaining very respectfully and truly yours,</p><P>THOMAS W. WILLIAMS.</p><P>P.S.--Since writing the above I have received the extract from the log-book, and enclose the same.</p><P><HI REND="italics">The last Entry in the Log-Book of the Alert</HI>
139.sgm:.</p><P>"SEPTEMBER 9, 1862.</p><P>"Shortly after the ship came to the wind, with the main yard aback, we went alongside and were hoisted up, when we found we were prisoners of war, and our ship a prize to the Confederate steamer Alabama.  We were then ordered to give up all nautical instruments and letters appertaining to any of us.  Afterwards we were offered the privilege, as they called it, of joining the steamer or signing a parole of honor not to serve in the army or navy of the United States.  Thank God no one accepted the former of these offers.  We were all then ordered to get our things ready in haste, to go on shore, --the ship running off shore all the time.  We were allowed four boats to go on shore in, and when we had got what things we could take in them, were ordered to get into the boats and pull for the shore, --the nearest land being about fourteen miles off, --which we reached in safety, and, shortly after, saw the ship in flames.</p><P>"So end all our bright prospects, blasted by a gang of miscreants, who certainly can have no regard for humanity so long as they continue to foster their so-called peculiar institution, which is now destroying our country."</p><P>I love to think that our noble ship, with her long record of good service and uniform success, attractive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>529</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:and beloved in her life, should have passed, at her death, into the lofty regions of international jurisprudence and debate, forming a part of the body of the "Alabama Claims"; --that, like a true ship, committed to her element once for all at her launching, she perished at sea, and, without an extreme use of language, we may say, a victim in the cause of her country.</p><P>R. H. D., JR.</p><P>BOSTON, MAY 6, 1869.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>530</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>[XXXVIII]</HEAD>
139.sgm:<P>SEVENTY-SIX YEARS AFTER</p><P>BY THE AUTHOR'S SON</p><P>IN the preceding chapter, my father contrasted the solitary bay of San Francisco in 1835, its one, or at most, two vessels and one board hut on shore, with the city of San Francisco in 1859 of nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants and a fleet of large clipper ships and sail of all kind in the harbor, which he saw on his arrival in the steamer Golden Gate bringing the "fortnightly" "mails and passengers from the Atlantic world."  The contrast from 1859 to 1911 is hardly less striking.  San Francisco has now grown to over four hundred thousand inhabitants, has twelve daily trains bringing mails and passengers from across the continent and beyond, and steamers six to ten times the size of the Golden Gate.  In visiting San Pedro in 1859 he speaks of the landing at the head of a creek where boats discharged and took off cargoes from a mole or wharf, and of how "a tug ran to take off passengers from the steamer to the wharf, for the trade of Los Angeles is sufficient to support such a vessel."  From this landing, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>531</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:stage coach went daily to Los Angeles, a town of about twenty thousand inhabitants.  Now there is a fine harbor at which large steamers themselves can land at San Pedro and a four-track electric road leading to Los Angeles, now a city of three hundred thousand inhabitants.  Trains on this road go at the rate of sixty miles an hour.  The picturesqueness, the Aladdin lamp character of the change, would not perhaps be heightened, but certainly the contrast is greater, if the days of 1835 be compared with 1911 instead of 1859, while the startling growth from 1859 to the present makes one pause to ask what will be the progress and the changes in the next fifty-two years.</p><P>Of the fate of the vessels since my father wrote "Twenty-four Years After," little has come to our knowledge.  Of the brig Pilgrim, he says, "I read of her total loss at sea by fire off the coast of North Carolina."  On the records of the United States Custom House at Boston is this epitaph, "Brig Pilgrim, owner, R. Haley, surrender of transfer 30 June 1856, broken up at Key West."  Is it not romantic and appropriate that this vessel, so associated with the then Mexican-Spanish coast of California, should have left her bones on the coast of the once Spanish colony of Florida?</p><P>A schoolmate of mine dwelling at Yokohama tells us of the fate of the ship Lagoda.  This is the vessel that Captain Thompson of the Pilgrim came aboard and "brought his brig with him" (page 137), and to which poor Foster fled (page 154), in fear of being flogged.  The Lagoda was under three hundred and forty tons, built at Scituate, Mass., in 1826, of oak with "bluff bows and square stern."  Later she was sold to a New Bedford owner, converted into a bark and turned into a whaler.  In 1890, she came to Yokohama much damaged, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>532</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:officially surveyed and pronounced not worth repair, was sold at auction and bought as a coal hulk for the Canadian Pacific Company's steamers at that port, and in 1899 was sold to the Japanese, burned and broken up at Kanagawa.  The fate of these vessels, with that of the Alert burned at sea by the Alabama, illustrates how vessels, as Ernest Thompson Seton says of wild animals, seldom fail to have a hard, if not a tragic, ending.</p><P>It may be interesting to state that the Ayacucho (pronounced I-ah-coo-tsho) was named after the battle fought December 9, 1824, in Peru, South America, in which the Spaniards were defeated by the armies of Columbia and Peru, which battle ended the Spanish rule in America.  What became of her after she was sold to the Chilian government as a vessel of war, we do not know.</p><P>The Loriotte, we learn, was built at Plymouth, Mass., in 1828, was ninety-two tons, originally a schooner and later changed into an hermaphrodite brig.  Gorham H. Nye, her captain and part owner, was born in Nantucket, Mass.</p><P>As to persons, there is little to add about Captain Thompson.  Captain Faucon gave it as his opinion that Thompson was not a good navigator and that Thompson knew his sailors knew it, and to this cause he attributed in some measure Thompson's hard treatment of the men.  His navigation of the Alert some twelve or fifteen hundred miles westward of the usual course around Cape Horn on the return passage was an instance.  It was much criticised by his sailors and officers.  It not only greatly lengthened the total distance but brought the vessel into currents that were more antarctic and more frequented with ice than those currents nearer the southwest coast of South America, usually taken advantage of on the trip west to east.  In 1880, on my visit to the scenes of "Two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>533</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:Years Before the Mast," I met a nephew of Captain Thompson at Santa Barbara.  He was then the proprietor of the hotel at which I stayed.  He invited me to walk with him Sunday afternoon.  When we started out together I noticed he had a large, thick cane, while I had none.  Could it be he was to wreak vengeance on the son of the man who had exposed his uncle?  I was strong and athletic after a year as stroke of the Freshman crew and three years as stroke of the University crew at Harvard.  I kept my weather eye open and took care to be a little behind rather than ahead of my companion.  At last he began on my father's story, "Two Years Before the Mast," and his uncle.  Now it is coming, thought I, but to my surprise and relief he detailed a family trouble in which the uncle had tried to get into his own possession land which belonged in part to his brothers and of which he, the captain, had been placed in charge, and my friend, for so I could then think of him, wound up with saying my father had done his uncle perfect justice.  The year of Captain Thompson's death was 1837.</p><P>The chief mate of the Pilgrim on her outward voyage, Mr. Andrew B. Amerzeen, was born at Epsom, N. H., June 7, 1806.  After returning in the Alert in 1836, as described by my father, his mother prevailed on him to give up long voyages, owing to the fact that his father, a ship owner and master, had been lost at sea with his ship a year or two before.  Mr. Amerzeen then made several short voyages to the West Indies and in the fall of 1838 his ship was dismasted in a storm somewhere below Cape Hatteras.  He was ill with yellow fever and confined to his stateroom at the time.  The ship was worked into one of the southern ports, Savannah I am told, and there Mr. Amerzeen died September 27, 1838, from this fever.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>534</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:<P>"Jim Hall," the sailor who was made second mate of the Pilgrim in Foster's place, after several years' successful career as Captain and Manager of the Pacific Steamship Navigation Company on the west coast of South America with the title of Commodore, returned to this country, having saved a competence, and settled at East Braintree, Massachusetts.  He called on me at my office some ten years after my father's death.  He was six feet tall, a handsome man of striking appearance, with blue eyes, nearly white hair, a ruddy countenance, and a very straight figure for one of nearly eighty years of age.  He was born at Pittston, Maine, July 4, 1813.  He is said to have commanded twenty-seven different vessels, steam and sail, and never to have had an accident, "never cost the underwriters a dollar."  He died April 22, 1904.  His wife (Mary Ann Kimball of Hookset, N. H.) survived him.</p><P>Of George P. Marsh, the new hand shipped at San Pedro October 22, 1835, the Englishman with a strange career, we have heard in a letter from Mr. Samuel C. Clarke of Chicago, passenger with Captain Low on the ship Cabot when she took Marsh from the Pelew Islands.  Mr. Clarke kept a journal at the time, which confirms in almost every detail the story as told by Marsh, with one or two very minor exceptions but one important difference.  He told them when first rescued that he was "a native of Providence, Rhode Island" in America, while to his shipmates in California he always said he was a native of England and brought up on a smuggler.  By a letter from his nephew, Edward W. Boyd, we learn that his real name was George Walker Marsh, that he was the eldest son of a retired English army officer and his wife, and was born in St. Malo, France, hence his knowledge of the French <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>535</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:language.  He went to sea against their will but communicated with them several times afterwards.  After he left to join the Ayacucho in Chili, all trace of him was lost at Valparaiso.</p><P>Captain Edward Horatio Faucon, who took out the Alert and brought back the Pilgrim, continued, after my father's last chapter, to live at Milton Hill where he still kept "the sea under his eye from the piazza of his house."  He was occasionally employed by Boston marine underwriters on salvage cases, going to many places, from St. Thomas, W. I., and the Bermudas, to Nova Scotia in the north.  He was a constant reader, chiefly interested in history, political economy and sociology.  He made visits, annually or oftener, on my mother until his death on May 22, 1894.  We all remember his keen eye, erect figure, quiet reserve, and old-time courtesy of manner, and his personal interest in those who come and go in ships, and more particularly in those of the Alert, his favorite ship.  He was born in Boston, November 21, 1806.  His father, Nicolas Michael Faucon, was a Frenchman of Rouen, who fought in the Napoleonic wars with distinction as Captain of the Second Regiment of the Hussars, and came to this country, where he married Miss Catherine Waters at Trinity Church, Boston.  He was instructor in French at Harvard, 1806-1816.  Our Captain Faucon left a widow and daughter, and a promising son, Gorham Palfrey Faucon, a Harvard graduate, a well-trained civil engineer in the employ of large railroads, and, like his father, interested in literature and public problems.  He died in 1897, in the early prime of life.</p><P>The third mate, James Byers Hatch, whom Captain Faucon in a letter to us called "one of the best of men," continued to command large sailing vessels on deep sea <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>536</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:voyages with some mishaps and narrow escapes.  While in California on one of these voyages he found James Hall on board another ship at the same wharf, and in a letter to Captain Faucon written June, 1893, says, "I persuaded him to take the first officer's berth, and what an officer he was!!  Everything went on like clockwork.  I do not think I ever found the least fault with him during the whole time he was with me."  Captain Hatch lost his only son, a lad of seven, on a voyage to Calcutta.  "The boy," said he, "fell from the top of the house on the poop deck and died in about a week."  His wife and married daughter both died in 1881.  He himself settled in Springfield, Mass., his birthplace, and lost almost all he had saved in some unsuccessful business venture in that city, and lived a rather lonely and sad life.  In the above letter he said, "I am now ready and anxious to leave this earth and take my chance in the next."  He died at Springfield soon after 1894.</p><P>Benjamin Godfrey Stimson, the young sailor about my father's age, was born in Dedham, Mass., March 19, 1816.  It came naturally to him to go to sea, for his great-uncle Benjamin Stimson commanded the colonial despatch vessel under Pepperell, in the siege of Louisburg.  After settling in Detroit in 1837, he married a Canadian lady (Miss Ives), owned many lake vessels, including the H. P. Baldwin, the largest bark of her day on the great lakes, and was Controller of that city from 1868 to 1870, during which time the city hall was built by him at less than estimated cost.  He died December 13, 1871, leaving a widow and two sons, Edward I. and Arthur K. Stimson.  The agent Alfred Robinson died in 1895.</p><P>Jack Stewart I met in San Diego on my visit there in 1881, as I have stated in the Introduction.  He was quite a character in the "old" town and made a good deal of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>537</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:his being one of the crew of the Alert.  He died January 2, 1892, leaving children and grandchildren.  Henry Mellus, who went out before the mast and left the Pilgrim to be agent's clerk ashore, and whom my father met at Los Angeles in 1859, was made mayor of that city the very next year.</p><P>Last, but not least, from the point of view of friendship, was my father's "dear Kanaka" (Hope), whose life my father saved (by getting ship's medicines from the mate, after Captain Thompson had refused to give them), and for whom he had so much real affection.  The last mention we have of Hope is found in my father's journal under date of May 24, 1842.</p><P>"Horatio E. Hale called.  Been away four years as Philologist to the Exploring Expedition.  Was in San Francisco three months ago and saw the Alert there collecting hides.  Also saw 'Hope' the Kanaka mentioned in my 'Two Years.'  Hope desired his Aikane to me--Remembered me well.  Hale said his face lighted up as soon as my name was mentioned to him."</p><P>As to all the rest of the officers and crews, they have doubtless all handed in their last account and taken passage across the Unknown Sea to the other world.</p><P>Of the "fascinating" Don&tilde;a Angustias dela Guerra, whose graceful dancing with Don Juan Bandini in Santa Barbara during the ceremonies attending the marriage of her sister, Don&tilde;a Anita with Mr. Robinson, the Agent, in January, 1836, my father describes (pages 300-305), something more is to be said.</p><P>On my visit to Santa Barbara in 1880, I had the privilege of seeing her.  I was much impressed with her graceful carriage, her face still handsome, though she was then sixty-five years of age, with her dignity, calm self-possession, and above all with her true gentility of manner and evidently high character and purpose, together <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>538</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:with a delightful humor, which shone in her eyes.  General Sherman, in a letter as late as 1888, says of her, she "was the finest woman it has been my good fortune to know," and Bayard Taylor in El Dorado (Putnam's edition of 1884, page 141) writes, "she is a woman whose nobility of character, native vigor and activity of intellect, and above all, whose instinctive refinement," etc.</p><P>In 1847, when our officers took possession of California, she, a Mexican, of the first Mexican family of California, took care of the first United States officer who died in Monterey, Lieutenant Colville J. Minor, an enemy to her country, for which service she received a letter of thanks from the First Military Governor, dated August 21, 1848.</p><P>She died January 21, 1890, at the age of seventy-five.  The name of her first husband was Don Manuel Jimeno and of her second Dr. Ord.  Caroline Jimeno was the daughter "as beautiful as her mother" that Mr. Dana met in 1859, then a young lady of seventeen.  Her daughter by the second marriage, Rebecca R. Ord, an "infant in arms" when my father saw her in 1859, married Lieutenant John H. H. Peshine of the United States Army, who in 1893 was made First Military Attache&acute; to the Court of Madrid.</p><P>The dela Guerra family of California, I am told, is dying out in the male line and will soon leave no representative.</p><P>As to Richard Henry Dana, Jr.,<ANCHOR ID="nXXXVIII-11">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: the author of the book, the reader may wish to know something.  He came back from his two years' trip in 1836 "in a state of intellectual famine, to books and study and intercourse with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>539</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:educated men."  He had left his class at Harvard at the end of the sophomore year (1833), on account of the trouble with his eyes and sailed about a year later.  When he returned, September, 1836, his class had graduated in the summer of 1835, but with a little study he passed the examinations for the then senior class, which he entered late in the autumn of 1836.  On graduation in 1837 he not only stood first, but "had the highest marks that were given out in every branch of study."  He took the Bowdoin prize for English prose composition and the first Boylston prize in elocution.  He then entered the Law School and became instructor in elocution under Professor Edward T. Channing, and during this period wrote the "Two Years Before the Mast."  In February, 1840, he went into the office of Charles G. Loring and in the following September opened his own office and began the active practice of law.  He was born August 1, 1815, at Cambridge, Mass., with a line of ancestors reaching back to the early days of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, with several colonial governors in the maternal lines.  His great grandfather, Richard Dana, was one of the early patriots, a "Son of Liberty," who frequently presided at the meetings at Faneuil Hall at which Otis, Adams and others spoke.  This man's son, my father's grandfather, Francis Dana, was several times member of the State Colonial Legislature and of the Continental Congress.  He was one of the signers of the Articles of Confederation and married Elizabeth Ellery, the daughter of William Ellery, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence.  Francis Dana had been sent abroad on a special mission to England in 1774 before the breaking out of the Revolutionary War, to sound English public opinion, for which he had unusual advantages.  He returned in the late spring of 1776 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>540</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:advising independence, and soon after this the Declaration of Independence was signed.  Francis Dana was also appointed on a special mission to Paris and Holland with John Adams, later was made Minister to Russia, and after the peace with Great Britain was made Chief Justice of Massachusetts.  Mr. Dana's own father, Richard Henry Dana, Senior, was a poet and literary critic and a founder of the "North American Review."  Young Richard was brought up in very moderate circumstances.  His grandfather, who had accumulated a good deal of property, lost the larger part of it through unfortunate investments in canals by a relation, in which he had himself become more deeply involved than he supposed.  I remember my father's saying that his spending money for one whole term consisted of twenty-five cents, which he carried in his pocket in cases of emergencies.  He walked to and from Boston to save omnibus fares, had no carpet on his college room and had no chore-man to black his boots and fetch his water and fuel.  This, however, was the usual custom in his day with all but the rich collegian.  The necessities of life did not then demand so high a rate of "living wage" as to-day.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nXXXVIII-11">He was Richard Henry Dana, Jr., when he wrote his book, and continued to be called so through life, for his father, a poet and <HI REND="italics">litte&acute;rateur</HI>
139.sgm:<P>He entered on this sea experience with his eyes open.  He had the opportunity of going on a long voyage as a passenger, but he refused it, and resolutely took the harder way of accomplishing his purpose of toughening himself.  A little incident of his boyhood gives a hint of his pluck.  His schoolmaster, angry at what he chose to call "disobedience" on the excuse of a "pretended" illness, told the boy to put out his left hand.  "Upon this hand," wrote Dana years afterward, "he inflicted six blows with all his strength, and then six upon the right hand.  I was in such a frenzy of indignation at his injustice and his insulting insinuation, that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>541</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:could not have uttered a word for my life.  I was too small and slender to resist, and could show my spirit only by fortitude.  He called for my right hand again, and gave six more blows in the same manner, and then six more upon the left.  My hands were swollen and in acute pain, but I did not flinch nor show a sign of suffering.  He was determined to conquer, and gave six more blows upon each hand, with full force.  Still there was no sign from me of pain or submission.  I could have gone to the stake for what I considered my honor.  The school was in an uproar of hissing and scraping and groaning, and the master turned his attention to the other boys and let me alone.  He said not another word to me through the day.  If he had I could not have answered, for my whole soul was in my throat and not a word could get out....I went in the afternoon to the trustees of the school, stated my case, produced my evidence, and had an examination made.  The next morning but four boys went to school, and the day following the career of Mr. W. ended."</p><P>That Dana had a keen sense of injustice not merely when he himself was concerned, but whenever he was brought face to face with injustice, the reader of this book has discovered for himself, and that a high sense of honor and right was a controlling passion of his life will appear when one knows his career after he returned from his long voyage.  It rendered his attitude toward his profession, that of a lawyer, very different from that of a man merely seeking a livelihood.</p><P>Beside his work for the sailors to which I refer later there was another class of peculiarly helpless sufferers to make even stronger demand upon his sense of justice.  By his social relations and by his strong antipathy to violence of every kind, Dana would naturally have found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>542</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:his place amongst the men who in politics prefer orderly and regular and especially respectable associations.  He came into active life when a small band of earnest men and women were agitating for the abolition of slavery.  Some among them were also attacking the church, and proposing all sorts of changes in society.  But Dana was a man of strong religious principles and feelings, and he had little faith in any violent change in the social order.  His diaries and letters of the period show that he was annoyed by the temper of the Abolitionists.  They were not his kind.  Nevertheless he was not a man to steer between two parties.  In a great moral crisis he was sure to take sides.  He took sides now and came out as a member of the Free Soil party.  He made a distinction, which was a clear one, between the Free Soil party and the uncompromising Abolitionists.  But in the rising heat of political feeling, other people did not make a like distinction, and Dana, a young lawyer, married now, and with a family growing up about him, found himself put out into the cold by the well-to-do, the successful, and the respectable.</p><P>Dana had a keen scent for politics, and he looked with the strongest interest upon the great political movement which was stirring the country; but he did not espouse the cause of free soil because he expected to profit by it politically.  On the contrary, he knew that he was shutting himself out from political preferment by such a course, and at the same time was imperilling his professional success.  It was the act of a man who stood up for the cause of righteousness, without counting the cost.  In like manner he now had the opportunity of illustrating afresh his attitude toward the law, for he held that law was for the accomplishment of justice, and that it was most glorious when its strong arm protected and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>543</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:defended the weak and downtrodden.  By a natural course, therefore, he became a prominent counsel for those unfortunate negroes who, at this time, in Boston, were held as fugitive slaves.  While the ingenuity of some was expended in putting the law on the side of the strong and the rich, Dana, who was convinced in his mind that the law of the state was honestly to be invoked in defence of the fugitive slave, gave himself heart and soul to the work of applying the law, and received no remuneration for his services in any fugitive slave case.  Instead, he received at the close of one of the most important cases, a blow from a blackguard which narrowly missed maiming him for life.  It is worth while to read what Dana wrote after rendering all the aid he could in the defence of Anthony Burns: "The labors of a lawyer are ordinarily devoted to questions of property between man and man.  He is to be congratulated if, though but for once, in any signal cause he can devote them to the vindication of any of the great primal rights affecting the highest interests of man."  He was a member of the noted Free Soil Convention at Buffalo of 1848, and presided at the first meeting of the Republican party in Massachusetts.</p><P>It may be a source of wonder to some that Dana, who achieved a great literary success in the book which he wrote when a young man, did not pursue literature as an avocation, if not as a vocation.  He published but one other book, a narrative of a trip to Cuba made in 1859, and he wrote a few magazine articles.  The explanation must be found in the temperament and character of the man.  His "Two Years Before the Mast" is a vivid representation of what he saw and experienced at a most impressionable age.  He put his young life into it; he was not thinking of literature when he wrote it, and thus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>544</CONTROLPGNO>
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139.sgm:the book takes rank with those books which are bits of life rather than products of art.  Afterward he was immersed in his law practice, and he was a prodigious worker.  He saw with great clearness the points in the cases he took up, and he was untiring in his industry to cover the whole case.  He did all the work himself; he did not lay the details on others, and avail himself of their diligence.  His time, moreover, as we have shown, was very much at the disposal of those who could pay him little or nothing for his services, and he gave months of labor to the unremunerative defence of the fugitive slave.  Moreover, his deep religious conviction and his high sense of legal honor often stood in the way of his profit.  So it was that his life was one of hard work and little more than support of his family.  There was scant time for any wandering into fields of literature.</p><P>Yet he left behind him some other writings which show well that the hand which penned the "Two Years" never lost its cunning.  He made an interesting visit to Europe, and, later in life, in 1859-60, made a journey round the world.  The record which he kept on these journeys has been drawn upon largely in the biography<ANCHOR ID="n33-12">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: prepared by Charles Francis Adams, who was in his early days a student in Dana's office, and there one finds page after page of delightfully animated description and narrative.  He wrote for his own pleasure and for that of his family, and his writing was like brilliant talk, the outflow of a generous mind not easily saved for more common use.  He published notes to Wheaton's "International Law," several of which are quoted in all new works on the subject to this day.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n33-12"><HI REND="italics">Richard Henry Dana, Jr</HI>
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139.sgm:<P>The journey which he took round the world was for the purpose of restoring his health, which had been greatly impaired.  He came back in improved condition, and entered upon the excited period of the war, when he held the office of United States District Attorney.  During this time he argued the famous prize causes before the United States Supreme Court, and his argument was the one that turned the Court, which was democratic in its politics, to take the unanimous view that the United States Government had a right to establish blockade and take prizes of foreign vessels that were breaking this blockade.  Had it not been for this decision, so largely influenced, as the Court itself generously states, by Mr. Dana's argument, the Civil War would have been greatly prolonged, with possibly another, or at least a doubtful issue.  He afterward served in the Massachusetts legislature, and there made several noted speeches, among others his argument on the repeal of the usury laws, a bill for which was unexpectedly carried in that body as the result of this speech which has been reprinted for use before legislatures of other states.</p><P>He accepted a nomination to Congress, chiefly as a protest against the nomination of B. F. Butler, who was running on a paper money and repudiation platform against the principles of his own party, but Mr. Dana was defeated.  In 1876 he was nominated by President Grant minister to England, but his nomination was not confirmed by the Senate, for his nomination had been made without consulting the Senatorial cabal and also he had bitter enemies, who carried on a warfare against him upon terms which he was too honorable to accept.</p><P>A selection of Mr. Dana's speeches, the most interesting historically or those of most present value, have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>546</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>519</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:been published, together with a biographical sketch,<ANCHOR ID="n34-13">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: supplementing the Life written by Charles Francis Adams.</p><P>Two years later, broken now in health, but with his mind vigorous, he resolved to give up the practice of law and devote himself to writing a work on international law.  For this purpose, and as a measure of economy, he went to Europe, and for two years applied himself diligently to his plan for a book which he believed would give some fundamentally new views on international law.  He had made many notes and had begun to write the first few chapters when he died, after a short illness, from pneumonia, in Rome, January 6, 1882.  He was buried in the beautiful Protestant cemetery of that city.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-13"><HI REND="italics">Speeches in Stirring Times and Letters to a Son</HI>
139.sgm:<P>His wife, who was Sarah Watson of Hartford, Conn., survived him, and he left five daughters and a son.  There are now nine of his grandchildren living (four of them Dana grandsons), and also four great-grandchildren.</p><P>Finally, what did Mr. Dana accomplish for sailors?  In the preface to the first edition (1840) he said, "If it shall...call more attention to the welfare of seamen, or give any information as to their real condition which may serve to raise them in the rank of beings, and to promote in any measure their religious and moral improvement, and diminish the hardships of their daily life, the end of its publication will be answered."  And after the flogging at San Pedro, there was his vow (page 125), "that, if God should ever give me the means, I would do something to redress the grievances and relieve the sufferings of that class of beings with whom my lot had so long been cast."  For redressing individual grievances he took the part of the sailor in many a lawsuit where his remuneration was often next to nothing, and by which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>547</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>520</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:action he incurred the ill will of possible future rich and influential clients.  In his journal December 14, 1847, he says, "I often have a good deal to contend with in the slurs or open opposition of masters and owners of vessels whose seamen I undertake to defend or look after," though he adds there were honorable exceptions.  These cases he fought hard and bravely, and into them he put his whole mind, heart and soul.  He could not have done better in them if he had been paid the highest fees known to the Bar.  He settled as many of these cases out of court as he could.  He believed any reasonable settlement better for the sailor than a legal contest, though his own fees would be less.  Beside taking the part of the individual seamen, he published the "Seamen's Friend," a book giving the full legal rights of sailors as well as their duties, a set of definitions of sea terms, which to this day is quoted in all the dictionaries, and much information for the use of beginners.  He drew up a petition and prepared an accompanying leaflet addressed to Congress for "The More Speedy Trial of Seamen."  He wrote numerous articles for the press and delivered many addresses on behalf of seamen, or for institutions for their benefit such as "Father" Taylor's Bethel and for a more cordial reception of sailors in the church.  He wrote the introduction of Leech's "A Voice from the Main Deck," but above all it was the indirect influence of his "Two Years Before the Mast" which did the most to relieve their hardships.</p><P>While on a trip in Europe in 1875-76, I spent some weeks in London and visited Parliament frequently to study the proceedings and see and hear its leading men.  By a strange coincidence at my very first visit, made at the invitation of the late Sir William Vernon Harcourt, after I had sent in my card and was ushered into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>548</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>521</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:inner lobby, I saw a man, evidently a member, rushing out into this lobby, and, to quote from my journal written at the time, "in a wild state of excitement, throwing about his arms and shaking his fists, with short ejaculations such as 'I'll expose the villains, all of them,' and I heard the words 'Cheats!' and I think 'Liars!'"  This was a strange introduction to the then decorous British House of Commons, for this was before the active days of Parnell.  I saw poor, blind Henry Fawcett <ANCHOR ID="n38-14">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: and others trying to calm the man.  The lobby was immediately cleared of strangers, so I saw no more just then, but I was later admitted into the House and learned that this man was the famous Plimsoll (1824-1898).  He had become enraged because his Merchants' Shipping Bill had just been thrown out by Disraeli, then Prime Minister, on this day of the so-called "Slaughter of the Innocents," that is, the day when the Government abandoned all bills which they were not to carry out that session.  Justin McCarthy, in his "History of Our Own Times" (Vol. IV, page 24, et seq.), gives a full account of this scene.  Plimsoll's Bill was a measure for the protection of seamen against the danger of being sent to sea in vessels unfit for the voyage.  To understand the whole situation of the sailor in civilized countries, one must know that the only way allowed by law or custom for him to get employment is to sign articles sometimes without even knowing the name of the vessel, and almost always without an opportunity to examine or even see her.  Once having signed these papers, sailors are by law compelled to keep their contracts and can be imprisoned and sent aboard if they try to escape.  Every other person in every other kind of employment, since the abolition of slavery, signing similar papers has a right to refuse to carry out his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>549</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>522</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:agreement, with no other penalty than a suit for damages.  He cannot be forced to carry out the contract in person.  If this were not so, there would be a sort of contract peonage or slavery endorsed by the law.  It is otherwise, however, with the sailors.  The United States Supreme Court in the case of Robertson <HI REND="italics">v</HI>
139.sgm:. Baldwin (165 U.S. 275, 1896) decided, Judge Harlan dissenting, that notwithstanding the thirteenth amendment to the Constitution which, it was supposed, had prohibited involuntary servitude except as punishment for crime, sailors could be forced on board of vessels, and the facts that the vessel was unfit for living, the food bad, and the master brutal were no defences.  The headnote of the case says, "The contract of a sailor has always been treated as an exceptional one involving to a certain extent the surrender of his personal liberty during the life of his contract."  Mr. Plimsoll was rightly convinced that unseaworthy vessels left port for the sake of insurance money on valued policies, that the lives of the seamen were thereby imperilled, and that the poor sailor had no redress before the law.  The bill that had just been thrown out by Disraeli provided that if one-quarter of the seamen appealed on the ground of unseaworthiness a survey would be ordered, the vessel detained till the survey was made, and if she were unseaworthy or improperly provisioned the sailors would be relieved from their contract unless those defects were cured.  It also had other minor provisions for the benefit of the sailors.  In Parliament that night, it was thought that Plimsoll's wild conduct had destroyed his reputation as a sane man and had ruined the chances of ever passing his bill, but outside of Parliament the effect was just the reverse.  The public was aroused to a full understanding of the essential merits of his bill and the government <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>550</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>523</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:was forced to put it on the calendar and carry it through that session in its substantial features, and the following year (1876) a more complete and perfected act covering the same points was passed.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n38-14">The political economist and M.P.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>In the United States, a most interesting character, Andrew Furuseth, a Norwegian, himself a sailor, and without much education but a man of wonderful force, has succeeded, largely by the aid of labor unions, in forcing through Congress bills by which no <HI REND="italics">American</HI>
139.sgm: seaman can any longer be forced against his will into this servitude nor any foreign seaman on domestic voyages.  Another evil tending to degrade and enslave the sailor was the allowance made by law of three months' advance wages on beginning a voyage.  This apparently harmless and, to the credulous and inexperienced legislator, beneficial provision gave a chance to the sailors' boarding-house keeper and runner, or "crimp," as he or she is called, to "shanghai" seamen and put them aboard drunk or drugged, with little or no clothing but what they had on their backs and rob them of this advance money.  The "crimps'" share of this money in San Francisco alone has been calculated at one million dollars a year, or equal to eighty per cent of the seamen's entire wages.  Part of this had to be shared with corrupt police and politicians and some of it has been traced to sources "higher up."  So common was this practice that vessels sailing from San Francisco and New York had so few sober sailors aboard, that it was customary to take long-shoremen to set sail, heave anchor and get the ship under way, and then send them back by tug.  This is precisely what happened on the well-equipped and new ship on which I sailed from New York in 1879 for California, and the same situation is described by Captain Arthur H. Clark in his account of seamen in his "Clipper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>551</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>524</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:Ship Era."  These poor sailors, without proper clothing, had to draw on the ship's "slop chest" for necessary oilskins, thick jackets, mittens and the like, and used up almost all the rest of their wages.  The small balance was wasted or stolen, or both, at the port of arrival, and off they were shipped again by the "crimp" with no chance to save or improve their condition.  After years of agitation by the friends of sailors the advance pay is now wholly abolished in the coastwise trade in America and the three months' advance cut down to one in the foreign trade, immensely to the benefit of the sailor and the discouragement of the "crimp."  The argument that without this system of bondage and "crimpage" it would be impossible to secure crews is fully answered by the experience of Great Britain since the passage of the Plimsoll Acts and in the United States since the recent acts of Congress.  On the contrary, these measures tend to secure a better class of sailors and compel improvement of the conditions under which they do their work.  I was told when in England that Plimsoll, who himself was not a sailor, was influenced among other things by my father's book "Two Years Before the Mast."</p><P>THE END</p></DIV>
139.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>552</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX</HEAD>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>553</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0056" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A SHIP'S SAILS</p></CAPTION>
139.sgm:<P>1  Fore topmast staysail.</p><P>2  Jib.</p><P>3  Flying jib.</p><P>4  Fore spencer.</p><P>5  Main spencer.</p><P>6  Spanker.</p><P>7  Foresail.</p><P>8  Fore topsail.</p><P>9  Fore topgallant sail.</p><P>10  Fore royal.</p><P>11  Fore skysail.</p><P>12  Mainsail.</p><P>13  Main topsail.</p><P>14  Main topgallant sail.</p><P>15  Main royal.</p><P>16  Main skysail.</p><P>17  Mizzen topsail.</p><P>18  Mizzen topgallant sail.</p><P>19  Mizzen royal.</p><P>20  Mizzen skysail.</p><P>21  Lower studdingsail.</p><P>21a  Lee ditto.</p><P>22  Fore topmast studdingsail.</p><P>22a  Lee ditto.</p><P>23  Fore topgallant studdingsail.</p><P>23a  Lee ditto.</p><P>24  Fore royal studdingsail.</p><P>24a  Lee ditto.</p><P>25  Main topmast studdingsail.</p><P>25a  Lee ditto.</p><P>26  Main topgallant studdingsail.</p><P>26a  Lee ditto.</p><P>27  Main royal studdingsail.</p><P>27a  Lee ditto.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>554</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>556</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0058" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SHIP<HSEP>BARK<HSEP>FULL-RIGGED BRIG<HSEP>HERMAPHRODITE BRIG</p></CAPTION>
139.sgm:<P>SHIP.--A ship is square-rigged throughout; that is, she has tops, and carries square sails on all three of her masts.</p><P>BARK.--A bark is square-rigged at her fore and mainmasts, and differs from a ship in having no top, and carrying only fore-and-aft sails at her mizzenmast.</p><P>BRIG.--A full-rigged brig is square-rigged at both her masts.</p><P>HERMAPHRODITE BRIG.--An hermaphrodite brig is square-rigged at her foremast; but has no top, and only fore-and-aft sails at her mainmast.</p><P>HERMAPHRODITE BRIGS sometimes carry small square sails aloft at the main; in which case they are called BRIGANTINES, and differ from a FULL-RIGGED BRIG in that they have no top at the mainmast, and carry a fore-and-aft mainsail instead of a square mainsail and trysail.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>557</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>EXTRACTS FROM UNOFFICIAL LOG OF ANDREW B. AMAZEEN ON BOARD THE ALERT ON THE HOME PASSAGE FROM SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA, TO BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.</p><P><HI REND="italics">.N. B.</HI>
139.sgm:  The nautical day in a ship's log always runs from noon of one day to noon of the next, and is called by the calendar day on which it ends, while the day in Mr. Dana's journal is a land day, running from midnight to midnight.  This explains the difference of dates which occasionally appears, as for example, in Mr. Dana's journal they leave San Diego Sunday afternoon, May 8th, while in the log it is on Monday, May 9th.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Monday</HI>
139.sgm: 9 <HI REND="italics">day of May</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P>Lying at Port Diego--At noon got underway with a fine breeze from the westward in running out the Harbour got on a sand bank Shortly after floated and stood to sea in Comp<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: with Ship California (p 350 ante)<HSEP>at 5 AM carried away F. Top Mast Studding Sail Boom</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturday</HI>
139.sgm: 14 <HI REND="italics">day of May</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P>Fresh Trades and fine weather all drawing sail set</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sundy</HI>
139.sgm: 3 <HI REND="italics">d day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P>Commences with strong breezes and heavy Squalls of rain and Snow Shortened Sail--Now here comes trouble at 1 P.M. Discovered a great Number of Islands of Ice ahead At 3 do.  Counted 18 Islands of Deck--at Sun Set we were completely surrounded this may seem incredible to some persons but it is a positive fact--Midnight Squally &amp; Islands of Ice all around Hove to to avoid running into it (p 382 ante)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Mondy</HI>
139.sgm: 4 <HI REND="italics">th day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P>Islands of Ice all around in sight here We have to Cut and Shear like a struck Dolphin 9-30 P.M. thick Weather and in the midst of danger hove too not being safe to run Midnight Squally 4 Islands of Ice in sight Day light kept away Ice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>558</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>528</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:still in sight and very large highest of these Isld of Ice from the water is from 150 to 200 feet and 1/2 mile in length rather more</p><P><HI REND="italics">Tuesdy</HI>
139.sgm: 5 <HI REND="italics">th day of July</HI>
139.sgm:</p><P>Strong breezes and Squally with Snow and plenty of Ice in Sight 6 P.M. hove too under Close reefd Maintop Sail it not being Safe to run on account of the Ice--Midnight heavy breezes kept away to run clear of an Island of Ice &amp; hove too on the other tack<HSEP>...Several Islads of Ice in sight</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursdy</HI>
139.sgm: 7 <HI REND="italics">th day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>At 1 P.M. Saw Several Large Isld of Ice and Shortly afterwards we were completely surrounded by an innumerable Number of Small ones<HSEP>Midnight heavy gale &amp; Cloudy<HSEP>..Several Islds of Ice in Sight</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
139.sgm: 8 <HI REND="italics">th day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>Saw an Isld of Ice on the weather Bow wore Ship and hove too--The Capt. is frightened and in a quandary he says there is no prospects of Making a passage around Cape Horn but that is all nonsense--if he would take courage--make Sail and Crack on when there is a Chance we should soon get out of this--our Situation is dangerous tis true, but I think it better to try to get out of Dangers way than to Stand and let him run over us Morning wore Ship<HSEP>one Island of Ice in sight Just enough to keep the Capt. in the quivers</p><P><HI REND="italics">Saturdy</HI>
139.sgm: 9 <HI REND="italics">th day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P>Commences fresh breezes and rainy--Ship still Lying too<HSEP>The Capt. thinks it to dangerous to undertake to go round Cape Horn on account the Ice--therefore he has Concluded to go through the Straights of Magellan--he is not acquainted there and it being in the winter &amp; the Ship very deep--I think it is jumping out the Frying pan Slap into the Fire (p 394 ante)<HSEP>At 10 A.M. Light breezes from the Sd and Ed kept away &amp; made sail for the Straits</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>559</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>529</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sundy</HI>
139.sgm: 10 <HI REND="italics">day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>Employed getting the anchors on the Bows<HSEP>..Ends light airs and very pleasant I hope the Ice has bid us adieu (p 396 ante)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Monday</HI>
139.sgm: 11 <HI REND="italics">th day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>At 3 PM the wind being ahead to proceed for the Straights--the Capt. altered his mind and Bore away for the Cape (397 ante)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursdy</HI>
139.sgm: 14 <HI REND="italics">th day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>.1 PM Saw a Small Isld of Ice ahead<HSEP>Wore Ship<HSEP>Ship under Short Sail</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sundy</HI>
139.sgm: 17 <HI REND="italics">day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P>Fine breezes and pleasant weather 2 PM Saw a Large Island if Ice on the lee Bow &amp; 2 Smaller ones ahead</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
139.sgm: 22 <HI REND="italics">day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>8 A.M. Clear Weather made Staten Land bearing NW per Compass Dist 35 miles--Passed a large Island of Ice &amp; this I hope is the fag End of the Ice--</p><P><HI REND="italics">Satdy</HI>
139.sgm: 23 <HI REND="italics">day of July</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>4 PM Cape St. Johns bore WNW Dist 20 Miles</p><P><HI REND="italics">Thursdy</HI>
139.sgm: 4 <HI REND="italics">day of August</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>from 6 to 8 heavy rain attended with Sharp Lightn'g and a Complizant<ANCHOR ID="na-11a">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: at the Fore &amp; Main royal mast heads</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-11a">Meaning corposant ( <HI REND="italics">Corpo Santo</HI>
139.sgm:, holy body) or St. Elmo's light, "a volatile meteor or <HI REND="italics">ignis fatuus</HI>
139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sundy</HI>
139.sgm: 7 <HI REND="italics">day of August</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P>8 AM spoke the English Barque Mary Catharine from Bahia Bound to Calcutta (p 428 ante)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Mondy</HI>
139.sgm: 8 <HI REND="italics">day of August</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P>10 AM Passed a Large English Ship Standing to the Sd &amp; Ed (p 428 ante)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
139.sgm: 12 <HI REND="italics">day of August</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P>....5 A.M. Saw the Island Trinidad bearing per Compass N 1/2 W Dist about 40 miles (p 429 ante)</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>560</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>530</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday</HI>
139.sgm: 16 <HI REND="italics">day of August</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>Midnight Squally Carried away the flying jib-boom (p 440 ante).</p><P><HI REND="italics">Weddy</HI>
139.sgm: 17 <HI REND="italics">day of August</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>Midnight Carried away another flying jib-boom It seems that these trades dont approve of a flying jib being Set and I think he is half right--However they are making preparations to give him another--(p 440 ante).</p><P><HI REND="italics">Friday</HI>
139.sgm: 19 <HI REND="italics">day of August</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>3 PM. made the Island Ferdinand Noronha bearing per Comp.<SUPERSCRIPT>s</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: NNW Dist 30 Miles--(p 429 ante)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Satdy</HI>
139.sgm: 20 <HI REND="italics">day of August</HI>
139.sgm:. 1836</p><P><HSEP>--27 days from Statten Land--that is going the whole figure--(p 440 ante)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Monday</HI>
139.sgm: 12 <HI REND="italics">day of Sept</HI>
139.sgm:. 1836</p><P><HSEP>At 8 A.M. Spoke the Brig Solon from N York bound to Curacoa &amp; Supplied us with Some vegetables (p 441-2 ante)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Sunday</HI>
139.sgm: 18 <HI REND="italics">day of Sept</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>at 10 Do Struck Soundings in 65 fathoms Muddy Bottom (p 451 ante)</p><P><HI REND="italics">Mondy</HI>
139.sgm: 19 <HI REND="italics">day of Sept</HI>
139.sgm: 1836</p><P><HSEP>4 A.M. 40 fathoms Sandy Bottom (p 451-2 ante)</p><P>CREW LISTS AND REGISTERS OF VESSELS</p><P>The following lists were copied in 1892 from the United States Custom House records at Boston.  These records have since been destroyed.</p><P>The "purser's names," that is the names and data on shipping lists, are often inaccurate.  Sometimes men enlist under names not their own.  If an error once occurs on the official rolls the error is handed down, as the name for each new voyage must correspond with the transfer papers from which it is taken.  This may explain, for example, the height of James Hall, put at five feet ten (probably his height when younger).  He was about six feet.</p><P>The index gives the references to the persons in addition to what is found in the following notes.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>561</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0059" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LIST OF PERSONS COMPOSING THE CREW OF THE BRIG PILGRIM OF BOSTON, WHEREOF IS MASTER FRANCIS A. THOMPSON, BOUND FOR CALIFORNIA</p></CAPTION>
139.sgm:<P>Names<HSEP>Stations<HSEP>Places of Birth<HSEP>Places of Residence<HSEP>Of what Country Citizens or Subjects<HSEP>AGE<HSEP>Height feet inches<HSEP>Complexion<HSEP>Hair<LB>Francis A. Thompson<ANCHOR ID="na-11b">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Master<HSEP>United States of America<LB>Andrew B. Amazeen<HSEP>1st Mate<HSEP>Epsom<HSEP>Portsmouth<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>28<HSEP>5 8 1/2<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<LB>George Foster<ANCHOR ID="na-12">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>2nd Mate<HSEP>Scituate<HSEP>ScituateaDo.<HSEP>23<HSEP>5 6 1/2<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<HSEP>Disch'd<LB><HSEP>3d Mate<ANCHOR ID="na-13">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Deserted<LB>John Holtz<HSEP>Carpenter<HSEP>Germanyu<HSEP>Germany<HSEP>Germany<HSEP>37<HSEP>5<HSEP>11<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dead<LB>William Warren<HSEP>Steward<HSEP>Great Britain<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Great Britain<HSEP>28<HSEP>5 6<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Dark<LB>Thomas Curtis<HSEP>Cook<HSEP>Weston<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>United States of America<HSEP>40<HSEP>5 7 1/2<HSEP>Black<HSEP>Wooly<LB>James Hall<ANCHOR ID="na-14">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Seaman<HSEP>Pittston<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>21<HSEP>5 10<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<LB>Samuel Sparks<ANCHOR ID="na-15">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Seaman<HSEP>Westmoreland Co., Virginia<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>21<HSEP>5 10<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<LB>John Linden<ANCHOR ID="na-16">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Seaman<HSEP>Sweden<HSEP>Sweden<HSEP>Sweden<HSEP>Sweden<LB>William Brown<HSEP>Seaman<HSEP>Baltimore<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>United States of America<HSEP>24<HSEP>5 6 1/2<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Light<LB>Henry Mellus<ANCHOR ID="na-17">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Ord<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: Seaman<HSEP>Dorchester<HSEP>Dorchester<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>18<HSEP>5 7 3/4<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Disch'd<LB>Richard Henry Dana<ANCHOR ID="na-18">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Ord<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm:Seaman<HSEP>Cambridge<HSEP>Cambridge<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>19<HSEP>5 5<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Transferred<LB>Benj. G. Stimson<ANCHOR ID="na-19">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Ord<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: Seaman<HSEP>Dedham<HSEP>Dedham<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>18<HSEP>5 10<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Light<HSEP>"<LB>Samuel Hooper 2nd<HSEP>Ord<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: Seaman<HSEP>Marblehead<HSEP>Marblehead<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>112<HSEP>4 2 1/2<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Light<HSEP>"<LB>George Ballamer<ANCHOR ID="na-110">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-11b">Born in Maine about 1804.  Transferred as Capt. of the Alert on return voyage.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-12">Lowered to rank of seaman (pp. 23-25) and deserted (p. 154).</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-13">There was no third mate.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-14">Promoted to second mate (p. 25).</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-15">Flogged (p. 123).</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-16">Flogged (p. 125).</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-17">Left to be agent's clerk on shore.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-18">Transferred to the Alert.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-19">Transferred to the Alert.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-110">Lost overboard (pp. 42-46).</NOTE>
139.sgm:<P>FROM OFFICIAL REGISTRY, MAY 5, 1825<LB>The Brig Pilgrim "was built in the year 1825 at Medford, Mass., as appears by certificate of Sprague and James, master carpenters; under whose direction she was built"--"has 2 decks and 2 masts"--"her length is 86 feet and 6 inches, her breadth 21 feet 7 1/2 inches, her depth 10 feet 9 3/4 inches"--"and she measures one hundred and eighty tons and 56/95ths"--"has a figure head and a square stern; and no galleries."</p><P>"Joshua Blake of Boston, Mass."--"with Francis Stanton and George Hallet of Boston aforesaid are the only owners."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>562</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0060" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LIST OF PERSONS COMPOSING THE CREW OF THE SHIP ALERT, OF BOSTON, WHEREOF IS MASTER E. H. FAUCON, BOUND FOR CALIFORNIA, 1834</p></CAPTION>
139.sgm:<P>Names<HSEP>Stations<HSEP>Places of Birth<HSEP>Places of Residence<HSEP>Of what Country Citizens or Subjects<HSEP>Age<HSEP>Height feet inches<HSEP>Complexion<HSEP>Hair<LB>Edward H. Faucon<ANCHOR ID="na-21">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Master<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>United States of America<HSEP>28<HSEP> 5 6<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dark<LB>Richard Brown<HSEP>1st Mate<HSEP>Marblehead<HSEP>Marblehead<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>25<HSEP>5 4<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<LB>David Evans<HSEP>2d Mate<HSEP>Baltimore<HSEP>Salem<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>30<HSEP>5 9<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Sandy<LB>James Hatch<HSEP>3d Mate<HSEP>Springfield<HSEP>Springfield<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>19<HSEP>5 7<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dark<LB>M. Lillijequist<ANCHOR ID="na-22">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Carpenter<HSEP>Holland<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Holland<HSEP>35<HSEP>5 8<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dark<LB>James Luyck<ANCHOR ID="na-23">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Steward<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>United States<HSEP>27<HSEP>5 7<HSEP>Black<HSEP>Wooly<LB> James Williams<ANCHOR ID="na-24">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Cook<HSEP>New York<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>United States of America<HSEP>19<HSEP>5 6 1/2<HSEP>Yellow<HSEP>Woolly<LB>Reuben Herriot<ANCHOR ID="na-25">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Sailmaker &amp; Seaman<HSEP>New York<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>America<HSEP>26<HSEP>5 10 1/2<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<LB>Henry White<HSEP>Seaman<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>28<HSEP>5 6 1/2<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<LB>William H. Meyer<ANCHOR ID="na-26">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Seaman<HSEP>Newburyport<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>29<HSEP>5 8<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<LB>Thomas Harris<ANCHOR ID="na-27">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Seaman<HSEP>Charlestown<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>40<HSEP>5 8 1/2<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dark<LB>Jopeph Brewer<HSEP> New Orleans<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>28<HSEP>5 8 1/2<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dark<LB>Joseph E. Libby<ANCHOR ID="na-28">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Seaman<HSEP>Gardiner<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>23<HSEP>5 10 1/2<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dark<LB>Henry Bennet<ANCHOR ID="na-29">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-29"><HSEP>Seaman<HSEP>New York<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>31<HSEP>5 6<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<LB>Cotton L. Pratt<ANCHOR ID="na-210">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: Seaman<HSEP>Weymouth<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>28<HSEP>5 8 1/2<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<LB>William Harris<ANCHOR ID="na-211">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: Ord<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: Seaman<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>19<HSEP>5 5<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Brown<LB>Nathaniel B. Prouty<ANCHOR ID="na-212">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Ord<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: Seaman<HSEP>Hingham<HSEP>Hingham<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>18<HSEP>5 2<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dark<LB>Ben Roubauds<ANCHOR ID="na-213">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Ord<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: Seaman<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<LB>James Nye<HSEP>Ord<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: Seaman<HSEP>Dover<HSEP>Dover<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>16<HSEP>5 4<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Light<LB>George W. H. Somerby<ANCHOR ID="na-214">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm: Ord<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: Seaman<HSEP>New York<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>15<HSEP>5 3<HSEP>Dark<HSEP>Dark<LB>Henry R. May<ANCHOR ID="na-215">*</ANCHOR>
139.sgm:<HSEP>Ord<SUPERSCRIPT>y</SUPERSCRIPT>
139.sgm: Seaman<HSEP>Philadelphia<HSEP>Boston<HSEP>Do.<HSEP>16<HSEP>5 2<HSEP>Light<HSEP>Light</NOTE>
139.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-21"><P>Transferred from the Alert to the Pilgrim in California.</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-22">Called "Chips" and became 3d mate on next voyage of the Alert.</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-23"><P>Also given as Laych.</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-24">Called "Doctor" (p. 381).</NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-25"><P>Age 26 must be a mistake.  He had been at sea 22 years (p. 229), called "Sails," also "oldest man on board" (p. 354).  Capt. Faucon said he was "fine looking," a regular man-of-war's man at least 40 years old.</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-26"><P>Full name William Hyson Meyers.  Son of James &amp; Abigail Meyers.  Born Feb. 9, 1801.</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-27"><P>Called Englishman.  Birthplace given as Charlestown must be wrong (see pp. 333, 490-491).</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-28"><P>Also spelt Libbey on later list &amp; "station bill," is probably the other Kennebee man (p. 285), and either he or Brewer the "Joe" (p. 443).</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-29"><P>If the "oldest man" of the crew (p. 353) must have been more than 31.  According to Capt. Faucon he was 40 at least.</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-210"><P>Did not sail.  Capt. Faucon could not remember such a man &amp; Mr. Hatch wrote, "The Cotton Pratt I never heard of before."  Probably "John the Frenchman" or Jack Stewart was taken in his place, or presented his papers as sailors sometimes did.  Pratt's name was not in the Alert's "station bill."  "John the Frenchman" so often mentioned (pp. 230-261, 274, 375, 428, 495) does not appear on this crew list  There is no John and no one born in France.  John C. Stewart is not on the regular crew list, but was on another and on the "station bill."</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-211"><P>The later list says he "ran away at Callao" on the outward voyage.</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-212"><P>Called the "Bucket-maker" (p. 230) &amp; "Cape Cod Boy," also "Nat" pp. 294-5. b. Jan. 17, 1817, son of a blacksmith Nathaniel Prouty and Matilda B. Gregory his wife, both of Hingham.  He married in Quincy, Nov. 18, 1847, Hannah Brown of Hingham. He died in Quincy 21 April, 1868.</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-213"><P>Always mentioned as English, specially on pp. 339-40.</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-214"><P>Went out again in the Alert Nov. 29, 1836.  He died about 1838.  The physician (p. 499) who saw to him was the Dr. George Parkman for whose murder Prof. Webster was convicted and hanged.</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-215"><P>Called "Harry Bluff" (p. 317).</p><P>George P. Marsh, an "Englishman" whose real name was George Walker Marsh, was shipped on board the Alert at San Pedro in Fall of 1835 (pp. 237-40).</p></NOTE>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>563</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>FROM THE OFFICIAL REGISTRY<LB>The Alert "was built in the year 1828 at Boston"--"has two decks, and three masts and that her length is 113 feet 4 inches, her breadth twenty eight feet, her depth fourteen feet and that she measures Three hundred and ninety eight &amp; 18/95 tons,"--"has a billet head, and a square stern, no galleries."  [The builder was Noah of Boston.]</p></DIV>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>564</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>565</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>566</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>A. J. Donelson, ship, 395, 397.<LB>Adams, Charles Francis, his <HI REND="italics">Richard Henry Dana</HI>
139.sgm:, 517.<LB><HI REND="italics">Administradores</HI>
139.sgm: (civil governors) in California, 211.<LB>Adobes, 99.<LB><HI REND="italics">Aikane</HI>
139.sgm:, in Kanaka parlance, 183.<LB>Alabama, Confederate cruiser, 500.<LB>Albatrosses, off the Cape, 40, 41.<LB>Alcatraz Island, 464, 470, 472.<LB>Alert, Indiaman, expected on the coast, 111; arrives at Santa Barbara, 204; Capt. Thompson transferred to, 204; enthusiastic descriptions of, 204, 205; expected at San Diego, 218; her arrival, 220, 221; described, 221, 222, 223, 224; her officers and crew, 222; her fast outward trip, 223; a lucky ship, 224; D. exchanges to, 224; routine of sea-duty on, 225 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; her boats, 226, 237, 238; sails from San Diego, 226 <HI REND="italics">
139.sgm:; crew of, well-used and contented, 228; pleasant night-watches on, 229; the larboard watch, 229, 230; excellent discipline on, 231; tacking ship on, 231, 232; easily worked, 232, 233; anchors at San Pedro, 233; furling sails, etc. on, 234, 235; receives hides from Pilgrim, 235; merry-making on, 236; contrast between Pilgrim and, 237; beaten by Catalina to Santa Barbara, 239, 240; at San Diego, 249; at San Juan, 249, 250; in a southeaster, 252-254; at Santa Barbara, 259; in gale there, 269; dispute as to comparative sailing qualities of, and of Ayacucho, 270; sails for Monterey with Mexican passengers, 270; in 8-day gale off Point Conception, 272-279; arrives at San Francisco, 280; a mass of hides from end to end, 284; sails from San Francisco to Monterey, 291 <HI REND="italics">ff.</HI>
139.sgm:; and up and down the coast, 307-323; at San Diego, cleaning out for homeward voyage, 325 <HI REND="italics">ff.</HI>
139.sgm:; loading hides on, 327 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; the last hide taken aboard of, 343; her cargo for home, 347 and n., 348; getting under way, 348, 349; delayed by the tide, and forced to anchor again, 350; again under way, 350, 351; trial of speed with California, 351; watches for the voyage, 353; crew of, diminished in number, 353; divers leaks in, 356, 357 and n.; fine southward voyage of, 357 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; livestock on, 361, 362; fine sailing qualities of, 365; preparations for the Horn, 367, 368, 372; change of weather conditions, 369 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; story of the boisterous voyage around the Cape, 374 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; icebergs, 381, 398, 399; a "temperance ship," 385; quality of stores on, 387 n.; discontent of crew, and suggestions of mutiny, 390 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; running for Magellan Straits, 394, 395; in the Atlantic at last, 411; running inside Falklands, 413; Capt. T. piles sail on, 414, 415; rapid sailing of, 419, 420; putting in order for making port, 423, 446; scurvy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>567</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>538</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:on, 441, how cured, 443, 444; in the Gulf Stream, 447-449; nearing home, 451 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; anchors in Boston harbor, 457; at the wharf, 460; her subsequent history, 499 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; captured and burned by the Alabama, 500; last entry in her log, 501.<LB>Almaden mines, 483.<LB>Amazeen.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Amerzene.<LB>American sailors, fail to appreciate advantage of music, 168.<LB>Americans, in California, 100, 216.<LB>Amerzene, Andrew B., mate of the Pilgrim, trouble brewing between Capt. Thompson and, 75; his character, 112, 113; too easy and amiable for the berth, 112, 113; Capt. T. dissatisfied with, 113; and the flogging of Sam and John, 122 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; sent home in the Alert, 492; treatment of, by Thompson, 492, 493; his subsequent history and death, 506; 30, 76, 77, 78, 133.<LB>Anchor Watch, 74, 109.<LB>Anchoring between port and port, repugnance of sailors to, 396.<LB>Ann M'Kim, ship, 39, 270.<LB>Anson, Lord, 52, 55.<LB>Argu&die;ello, Don&tilde;a Refugio, wife of Bandini, 478.<LB>Argu&die;ello, Don Santiago, 478.<LB>Arthur, Capt., of the California, 319, 333, 346, 347, 353.<LB>Atlantic Ocean, sailing northward on, 413 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.<LB>Atlantic tropics, typical weather in, 429-432, 433-436.<LB>Avon, brig, a Sandwich Island smuggler, 261, 262.<LB>Ayacucho, brig, at Santa Barbara, 68; dispute as to comparative sailing qualities of, and of the Alert, 270; named for battle of A., 505; 74, 76, 77, 79, 80, 117, 135, 136, 153, 259, 260, 266, 267, 268, 269, 307, 311, 321, 472, 473.<LB>Ballmer, George, his character, 42; lost overboard, 42, 43; auction of his effects, 45; stories told of, 45, 46.<LB>Bandini, Don Juan, passenger on the Alert, 297, 298, 299; his secretary, 298, 299; at Robinson's wedding, 303; 475, 478.<LB>Ben ("English lad").  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: English Ben.<LB>Bennett, Harry, 353, 354, 497, 498.<LB>Bermudas, 437, 441, 444.<LB>Big Trees, California, 484.<LB>"Bingham, Mr.," Sandwich-Islander, 180, 181, 182, 347.<LB>Block Island, 452.<LB>Blonde, English frigate, 260.<LB>Boat-steerers, 39, 40.<LB>Boston <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
139.sgm:, 319.<LB>Boston  <HI REND="italics">Daily Advertiser</HI>
139.sgm:, 319.<LB>Boston Harbor, 456, 457.<LB>Boston Light, 454, 456.<LB>Boston <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
139.sgm:, 319.<LB>Bowditch, Nathaniel, his  <HI REND="italics">Navigator</HI>
139.sgm:, 105.<LB>Boxing-match at Monterey, 294, 296.<LB>Boyd, Edward W., 507.<LB>Bradshaw, Capt. of the Lagoda, is sarcastic at Capt. T.'s expense, 137; 155, 473.<LB>Brandywine, frigate, 260, 355.<LB>Bravo, D.'s puppy, 219, 220; death of, 249.<LB>Bread, difficulty over allowance of, 63, 64.<LB>Brown, Bill, 73.<LB>Brown, Richard, mate of the Alert, and Captain Thompson, 234, 235; and the quarrel between Nat and George, 295, 296; and "Hope," 311; and Bennett, 353, 354; and D.'s swollen face, 380, 389; and the suggestion of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>568</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>539</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:mutiny, 392; controversy with Thompson as to executing orders, 424, 425; quarrel with Steward, 425, 426; not to be beaten in carrying sail, 440; death of, 496; 222, 236, 275, 316, 343, 348, 373, 374, 375, 396, 408, 410, 414, 416, 417, 433, 450.<LB>Bryant, Sturgis, &amp; Co., owners of the Pilgrim and Alert, 94, 205, 387 n., 499.<LB>"Bucket-maker," on the Alert.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Nat.<LB>Bulwer-Lytton, Sir E., <HI REND="italics">Paul Clifford</HI>
139.sgm:, 228, 229.<LB>Burns, Anthony, D.'s defence of, 516.<LB>Bustamente, 298.<LB>Butler, Benjamin F., defeats D. for Congress, 518.<LB>Cabot, ship, 257, 258 and n., 507.<LB>California, geography of, 66; peculiar features of trading in, in 1835, 94; quantity of silver in circulation in, 97; no credit system and no banks in, 97; hides and silver only circulating media, 97; government of, 99, 212; discovery and early history of, 209 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; frequent revolutions in, 212; lawlessness in, 212 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; Indians treated more severely than whites, 214; domestic relations of her people, 214-216; D.'s second visit to, in 1859, 462 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; summer in, 476.<LB>California, ship, 111, 115, 117, 315, 316, 318, 319, 333, 334, 335, 336, 337, 343, 348, 349, 350, 351, 352.<LB>California, Gulf of, 66.<LB>"California bank-notes." <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Hides.<LB>Californians, domestic relations of, 214, 215.  <HI REND="italics">And see</HI>
139.sgm: Indians, <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
139.sgm: Mexicans.<LB>Cape Ann, 455.<LB>Cape Cod, 454.<LB>"Cape Cod boy," on the Alert.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Nat.<LB>Cape Horn, Pilgrim reaches neighborhood of, 29; description of the rounding of, to the westward, 30 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; dread of winter passage round, 354, 355; approaching from the westward, 369 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; boisterous passage round, 374 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; divers attempts to double, blocked by head winds and no wind, 387 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 398, 400, 402 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; over the taffrail at last, 411, 413.<LB>Cape Horn life, a, 407.<LB>Cape Horn rig, 384.<LB>"Cape weather," 30 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; life on shipboard in, 36, 37.<LB>Captain, merchant.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Merchant captain.<LB>Carmel Mission, Monterey, 293.<LB>Carolina, ship, 10, 11.<LB>Carpenter, duties of, 14, 19.<LB>Carpenter of the Alert.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: "Chips."<LB>Carpenter of the Pilgrim, 42, 47.<LB>Castle, the (Boston Harbor), 457.<LB>Catalina, beats Alert to Santa Barbara, 239, 240; 166, 167, 197, 198, 199, 222, 308.<LB>Catamarans, 26.<LB>Chafing gear, 16, 17.<LB>Channing, Prof. Edw. T., 512.<LB>Channing, George E. and Capt. Thompson, 493, 494.<LB>Chatham Lights, 454.<LB>Chief Mate.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Mate, the.<LB>Chili, and Juan Fernandez, 52.<LB>Chinese in San Francisco in 1859, 468, 469.<LB>"Chips," carpenter of the Alert, favors requesting captain to make sail, 391; sounds mate as to taking charge of ship, 392, 393; D.'s familiar talks with, 405; his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>569</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>540</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:history, 405; 230, 317, 318, 319, 375.<LB>Christmas, on board (1834) 61; at San Francisco (1835), 289.<LB>Churches in San Francisco in 1859, 465, 466, 466, 467, 468.<LB>Clark, Arthur H., the <HI REND="italics"> Clipper Ship Eva</HI>
139.sgm:, 523, 524.<LB>Clark's Camp, 484.<LB>Clark's Point, 470.<LB>Clarke, Samuel C., 507.<LB>Clementine, brig, 257.<LB>Cock-fighting at Santa Barbara, 163, 164.<LB>Cohasset, 455.<LB>Contra Costa, 465.<LB>Convicts, at Juan Fernandez, 51, 52, 53.<LB>Convoy, brig, 299, 300.<LB>Cook, or "doctor," the patron of the crew, 14; duties of, in harbor, 109.<LB>Cook of the Alert, 371.<LB>Cook, the, of the Pilgrim, 9; on Ballmer's death, 44; D.'s talk with thereon, and on superstitions, 46-48; and Old Bess, 151, 152.<LB>Corn Laws, Tom Harris on, 245.<LB><HI REND="italics">Corposants</HI>
139.sgm:, 434.<LB>Cortes, Fernando, 209.<LB>Cortes, whaler, 53.<LB>Cowper, W., his <LB><HI REND="italics">Castaway, Lines to Mary, Address to the Jackdaw, Table Talk</HI>
139.sgm:, 406.<LB>Coyotes, at San Diego, 192, 193.<LB>Craw-fish, "burning the water" for, 206, 207.<LB>Crew, of a merchantman, duties of, 14 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; divided into watches, 14; "day's work" of, 15 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; required always to be at work at  <HI REND="italics">something</HI>
139.sgm:, when on deck, 16, 17; picking oakum, 18; Sunday routine of, in fair weather, 21; effect on, of death on board, 44; unwillingness of, to wear dead man's clothes, 45; duties of, in harbor, 108 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.<LB>Crew of the Alert, for homeward voyage, 354; murmur against the captain, because of his failure to make sail, 390, 391; carpenter urges action by, 392; return to duty, 393; excitement among, 394; improved spirits of, 396; fearful of passage through the straits, 396, 397; high spirits of on nearing home, 452, 453; Capt. Faucon's favorable judgment of, 495; details concerning various members of, 495 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:;.<LB>Crew of the Pilgrim, irritability and discontent of, 61; remonstrance of, to Capt. Thompson, on question of bread-allowance, 63, 64; his abusive reply to, 63, 64; irritation of, with Capt. T. never allayed, 64; disappointed of shore leave at Monterey, 89; resort to "sogering," 90; discontented under Thompson's severity, 113, 114; effect of floggings of Sam and John on, 127, 128, 157; diminished in number, 155; ill-disposition of, manifested in getting under way for San Diego, 133; on shore at San Diego, 141 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 147, 148; details concerning subsequent history of, 490-493.<LB>Cumberland Bay (Juan Fernandez), 55.<LB>Dana, Elizabeth Ellery.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Ellery, Elizabeth.<LB>Dana, Francis, D.'s grandfather, 512, 513.<LB>Dana, Richard, D.'s great-grandfather, 512.<LB>Dana, Richard Henry, D.'s father, 513.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>570</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>541</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>DANA, RICHARD HENRY II, sails for Pacific on brig Pilgrim (Aug. 14, 1834), 1; his first watches, 2, 3; first watch at sea, 5; first taste of discomforts, 5, 6; "All hands to take in sail!" 6, 7; <HI REND="italics">mal de mer</HI>
139.sgm:, 7, 8, 9; sea-duty begins in earnest, 9; cook's advice to, 9; gets his sea-legs on, 10; crosses the Equator, and becomes a true son of Neptune, 22, 23; his first gale, 26, 27; his progress in seamanship, 27; experiences in rounding the Horn, 30 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; took his trick at the helm throughout, 32; furling jib in a gale, 35; life on shipboard in "Cape weather," 36, 37; disaster with the "scouse," 37, 38; talks with the cook on Ballmer's death, and on superstitions, 46-48; too eager to land on Juan Fernandez, 51; on shore, 52, 53; "tarring down," 58-60; painting ship, 60; second crossing of the Equator, 61; and Stimson, shift quarters to forecastle, 62; and the bread-remonstrance, 63; on shore at Santa Barbara, 70 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; impressions on first landing in California, 70; shortening sail in a squall, 83, 84; favorable impression of Monterey, 87; first experience of sending down a royal yard, 87, 88; threatened mutiny at Monterey, 90, 91; goes a-fishing, 91; learns to speak Spanish, 98; advantage of his reputation as a great linguist, 98; uncertainty as to length and nature of voyage, 110, 111; his prevision of his future, 112; loading hides at San Pedro, 119, 120; royal-yards again, 120; how affected by the flogging of Sam and John, 123, 125, 126; on shore at San Pedro, watching hides, 128, 129; a lonely night, 130; acquaintances on shore, 130; his account of the floggings confirmed by Stimson, 132 n.; on board the Lagoda, 137, 138; on shore leave at San Diego, 139 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; at the mission, 143-146; at the villages, 146-148; loading hides at San Diego, 150; a quiet Sunday on board, 152; ashore at Santa Barbara, 159-165; alone on shore at San Juan, 170, 171; his reflections, 171, 172; left behind, at hide-house at San Diego, 175, 176; life at the hide-house, 177 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; his companions, 177, 178; relations with Nicholas, 179, and with the Kanakas, 179 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; and "Mr. Bingham," 181, 182; his confidence in the Kanakas, 182; "Hope," his favorite, 183; the duties of a hide-curer, 187 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; soon hardened to the work, though disagreeable, 190, 191; "wooding excursions," 191, 192; encounters with coyotes, 192, 193, and with rattlesnakes, 193-195; straying in the woods, 202; buying supplies, 202; studying navigation, 203; return of the Pilgrim to San Diego, 203; receives letters from home, <HI REND="italics">ex</HI>
139.sgm: Alert, 204, 205; and Capt. Faucon, 206; in the hide-house again, 206 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; "burning the water" for craw-fish, 206, 207; progress in Spanish, 209, and in knowledge of the character and habits of the people and of their institutions, 209 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; anxiously expecting the Alert, and why, 218, 219; employment of leisure interval, studying, refitting, and puppy-training, 219, 220; on board the Alert, 221, 222, 223; effects exchange to the Alert, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>571</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>542</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:224; his duties in his new berth described, 225 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; Bulwer's <HI REND="italics">Paul Clifford</HI>
139.sgm:, 228, 229; enjoys the night-watches, 229; his friends in the larboard watch, 229, 230; sending down royal-yards on the Alert, 235; life on the Alert, pleasanter than on the Pilgrim, 237, 238; advantages of a big ship, 237; in the gig's crew, 238, 239; his only amusement at San Pedro, 239; once more at Santa Barbara, 241; and Tom Harris, 242; rescue hides at San Juan, 251, 252; first takes a weather earing, 254; an evening aboard a whaler, 265; describes 8-day gale off Point Conception, 272-279; collecting hides and wood and water at San Francisco, 282-288; easy life on shipboard, 288; preparing for the homeward voyage, 288, 289; prophesies concerning the future of the Bay of San Francisco, 290; on shore at Monterey, 293 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; and Bandini's secretary, 298, 299; at Agent Robinson's wedding, 301 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; finds Pilgrim at San Pedro, 307, 308; at San Diego again, 308 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; and "Hope," the Kanaka, 309-311; letters from home at San Diego, 315, 317; at Santa Barbara reads of Harvard Commencement of 1835, 319, 320; rejoices in Boston papers, 320; indications of end of voyage, 320, 321; at San Diego, preparing for homeward voyage, 325 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; reads <HI REND="italics">Woodstock</HI>
139.sgm: aloud, 326; six weeks of loading hides, 327 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; credited with curing "Hope," 334; enjoys music on the California, 335, 336; ordered back to the Pilgrim, 337; discussion with Capt. T. thereanent, and the result, 337-339; and English Ben, 339; crew charges favoritism, 339, 340; tries to purchase an exchange, 340; induces May to take his place, 341 and n.; parting with Harris, 341; good-by to the Pilgrim, 342; on shore at San Diego, filling water-casks, 343; parting with "Hope" and others, 347; getting under way, 348 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; homeward bound, 352; again in the larboard watch, 353; preparing for the Horn, 355, 356; and Prof. Nuttall, 360; third crossing of the Equator, 364; furling and reefing in a gale, 374 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm: toothache and swollen face, 378 <HI REND="italics">ff.</HI>
139.sgm:; the captain's indifference, 380; working under difficulties, 380 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; forced to keep his berth in a gale, 388, 389; inopportuneness of his first illness since leaving Boston, 389, 390; refuses to take part in proposed remonstrance of crew, 392; returns to work, 395; conversations with "Chips," 405; adopts a system of time-killing, 406; repeating by memory, 406; furling the mansail under difficulties, 408-410; Staten Land--the Atlantic at last, 411; a press of sail in heavy weather, 414 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; employment of the first fair Sunday, 420; narrow escape of, on top-gallant yard, 427; fourth crossing of the Equator, 429; seasick in the Gulf Stream, 448; in Boston Harbor, 456, 457; and Samuel Hooper, 458; personal appearance of, 458; the last night on board, 458, 459; home, 461.<LB><HSEP>His second visit to California, 463 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; and Mr. Lies, 467, 468; known on the coast through this book, 468, 469; invited to speak <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>572</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>543</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:before Pioneer Society, 469; visits to various points, 470 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; sensations evoked in, by hides, 471; sails down the coast on the Senator, 472 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; renews acquaintance with Capt. Wilson, and hears of old friends, 472, 473; at Santa Barbara, 474-476; at San Pedro, 477; old friends at Los Angeles, 478; emotion of, on revisting San Diego, 479-481; at the Mission there, 482; excursions from San Francisco, 483-485; trip to Sandwich I'ds, on the Mastif Valley, 487, 488; at the Geysers, 489; farewell to California, 490; his journal quoted, concerning "Hope," 510; sketch of his after life, in literature, in politics, and at the bar, 511 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; what he accomplished for the sailor, 519 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.<LB>Dana, Richard Henry III, D.'s son, and Capt. Thompson's nephew, 506; and Don&tilde;a Augustias, 510; describes scene in House of Commons on Plimsoll's Merchant Shipping Bill, 520, 521.<LB>Dana, Sarah Watson, D.'s wife, 519.<LB>Disraeli, Benjamin, 521.<LB>Dancing, at Robinson's wedding, 303, 304.<LB>Dash, Marsh's schooner, 158 n.<LB>"Davis,  Tom,"  Sandwich-Islander, 180, 181, 184.<LB><HI REND="italics">Day's work, a</HI>
139.sgm:, on shipboard, described, 15, 16.<LB>Dead Man's Island, 477.<LB>Death at sea, solemnity of, 43; effect of, on crew, 44.<LB>Decatur, sloop-of-war, 488.<LB>Diana, brig, crew of, at Monterey, 294; 291, 296.<LB>"Doctor."  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Cook.<LB>Dog-watches, 14, 15.<LB>Dogs, at San Diego, 186, 191, 192, 193.<LB>"Doldrums," the, 363.<LB>Dolores, Mission of, in 1835, 281, 283, 462; in 1859, 470, 471.<LB>Dolphins, 20, 21.<LB>Domingo, Don, 303, 304.<LB>Donner Party, the, 488.<LB>Doyle family (San Diego), 482.<LB>Drake, Sir Francis, 281.<LB>Ducie's Island, 366.<LB>"Duff," served on Sundays, 21.<LB>Ellery, Elizabeth, D.'s paternal grandmother, 512.<LB>Ellery, William, 512.<LB>Englishman in California, 100, 216.<LB>English Ben, ordered to replace D. on the Pilgrim, 339, 340; May joins her in his place, 341; sick with scurvy, 440; 230.<LB>English lad.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Ballmer, George.<LB>Equator, crossing the, 22, 23, 61, 364, 429.<LB>Evans, second mate of Alert, 440, 496.<LB>Falkland Islands, 29, 32, 33, 413.<LB>Fandango, the, in California, 160; at Robinson's wedding, 302, 303.<LB>Faucon, Capt. Edward H., super-sedes Thompson in command of the Pilgrim, 204; first impression of, 205, 206; responsible for light working of Alert, 233; and "Hope," 333; subsequent career of, 495, 508; and French John, 495, 496; on Capt. Thompson, 505; his death, 508; 236, 237, 292, 337, 473, 490, 492.<LB>Faucon, Gorham P., 508.<LB>Faucon, Nicholas M., 508.<LB>Fawcett, Henry, 521.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>573</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>544</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>Fazio, brig, at San Diego, 186; a welcome addition to "society" there, 186, 187; vain attempt of government officers to prevent her sailing, 217, 218.<LB>Fernando Naronha (island), 429.<LB>Field-ice, 383, 384.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Icebergs.<LB>Fins (Finns), undesirableness of, as shipmates, 47, 48.<LB>Fitch (San Diego), 481.<LB>Floggings, on the Pilgrim at San Pedro, 123 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 131, 132 and n., 519.<LB>Flying Dutchman, the, 46.<LB>Food, allowance of, on merchantmen, 361 n.<LB>Forecastle, the, effect of bunking and messing with crew in, 62; disadvantage of, as a hospital, off Cape Horn, 393.<LB>Foster, second mate of the Pilgrim, his history, 23; <HI REND="italics">persona non grata</HI>
139.sgm: to captain, 23; asleep on watch, 24; deposed, 24, 25; his request for shore leave at Monterey, 105; runs away from the Pilgrim, 153 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; ships on the Lagoda, 156; in Boston, 492; 91, 132.<LB>France, report of war between U.S. and, 259 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.<LB>Franciscans, succeed Jesuits in California missions, 210.<LB>Fre&acute;mont, Mrs. Jessie B., 484.<LB>Fre&acute;mont, John C., 484.<LB>French, John.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: John the Frenchman.<LB>Furuseth, Andrew, 523.<LB>Genoese ship.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Rosa.<LB>George  ("Boston boy").  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Somerby.<LB>George's Bank, 452.<LB>George's Island, 457.<LB><HI REND="italics">Geute de razon</HI>
139.sgm:, dress of, 92.<LB>Geysers, the, 487, 488, 489.<LB>Godwin, William, <HI REND="italics">Mandeville</HI>
139.sgm:, 203.<LB>Goethe, J. W. von, his <HI REND="italics">Erl Ko&uml;nig</HI>
139.sgm:, 406.<LB>Golden Gate, the, 464, 472, 483.<LB>Golden Gate, steamship, 463, 464.<LB>Grant, Pres. U.S., 518.<LB>Grey, Earl, 299.<LB>Grog, distinction between captain and crew as to, 385, 386, 387.<LB>Guerra, Don Pablo de la, 474, 475, 487.<LB>Guerra, de la.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Noriego.<LB>Gulf Stream, 447, 448, 449.<LB>Hale, Horatio E., 510.<LB>Hall, James, second mate of Pilgrim, <HI REND="italics">vice</HI>
139.sgm: Foster, deposed, 25; his subsequent history and death, 507; 70, 72, 74, 87, 88, 124, 492, 509.<LB><HI REND="italics">Haole</HI>
139.sgm:, Sandwich-Island name for whites, 180.<LB>Harbor duties on shipboard, 108 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.<LB>Harcourt, Sir William V., 520.<LB>Harlan, John M., Justice U.S. S.C., 522.<LB>Harris, Tom, D.'s watch-mate on the Alert, 230; his character and history, 242 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; his extraordinary all-round talents, 243, 244, 245; his experience of the world, 246, 247, 248; his parting with D., 341; in Boston, 490, 491; 255, 256, 333.<LB>"Harry Bluff." <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: May, Harry.<LB>Harvard, Commencement of 1835, news of, at Santa Barbara, 319, 320.<LB>Hatch, James B., third mate of the Alert, 334, 339, 410, 411, 496, 509.<LB>Hatteras, Cape, 445.<LB>"Hazing" on shipboard, 61 and n.<LB>"Head-work" (carrying hides), 107, 108.<LB>Helen Mar, ship, 10.<LB>Hide-curing, described, 187 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>574</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>545</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>"Hide-droghing," 173.<LB>Hide-house, at San Diego, D.'s life at, 177 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; description of, 177.<LB>Hide-houses, uses of, 149, 150.<LB>Hides, methods of loading, at various places on the coast, 71, 72, 107, 108, 119, 120, 149, 150, 156, 172, 173; only circulating medium besides silver in California, 97; "California bank-notes," 97; scarcity of, 111; process of drying and curing, 107, 108, 150; rescued by D. at San Juan, 251, 252; loading, in heavy sea, 252, 253; collecting of, managed differently in San Francisco, 283 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; loading, for homeward voyage, 327 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; "steering," 329, 330; sensations evoked by, in D.'s mind, in 1859, 471; trade in, vanished in 1859, 471, 472.<LB>Hingham, 455, 456.<LB>Holmes, Capt., of the Rialto, 344.<LB>Holystoning, 225.<LB>Hooper, Samuel, of Bryant, Sturgis &amp; Co., 458.<LB>Hooper, Sam (Marblehead boy), left at San Diego with D., 175, 177; 492.<LB>"Hope," Sandwich-Islander, 180; D.'s favorite, 183; his intelligence and amiability, 183; adopts D. as his <HI REND="italics">aikane</HI>
139.sgm:, 183; his curiosity, 183, 184; pitif state of, 309, 310; Capt. Thompson and, 310; Mate Brown and, 311; improved condition of, 333, 334; recovery of, 347, 510; parting with D., 347.<LB>Horace, his <HI REND="italics">Ille et nefasto</HI>
139.sgm: ode, 406.<LB>Horn, the.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Cape Horn.<LB>Hornitos, 483.<LB>Horse-racing at Santa Barbara, 164.<LB>Horses, the cheapest thing in California, 142; their gaits, 145; at San Diego, 196.<LB>Icebergs and ice-islands, 381 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 398, 399, 401, 402.  And <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
139.sgm: Field-ice.<LB>Idleness, unknown on deck in a well-ordered vessel, 16.<LB>Independence, frigate, 488.<LB>Independence day off the Horn, 383.<LB>Indians, of California, language of, 145; Sunday sports of, 146, 147; justice meted out to, less tardily than to whites, 214; entirely lacking in morality and decency, 215; intemperance common among, 216; 100, 209, 210.<LB>Isla de los Angeles.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Wood Island.<LB>Italian sailors, at Santa Barbara, 159, 161, 165, 166; at San Diego, 198.<LB>Jackson, Pres. Andrew, 39, 442.<LB>Jackson, Bill, on the Pilgrim, 103-105, 136, 266, 473.<LB>Jesuits in California, 209, 210.<LB>Jews in San Francisco in 1859, 468.<LB>Jimeno, Don Manuel, first husband of Don&tilde;a Augustias de Noriego, 511.<LB>"Joe," anecdote of, 442, 443.<LB>John the Frenchman, rescues a ship's boy, 428; 230, 231, 274, 495, 496.<LB>John the Swede, the best sailor on the Pilgrim, 35; on Finns as shipmates, 47, 48; spokesman for crew to captain, 63; and the flogging of Sam, 122, 123; put in irons, 123; flogged by Capt. T., 124-126, 131, 132 n.; effect of flogging on, 157; in Boston, 491; 73, 74.<LB>John Gilpin, brig, 270.<LB>Juan Fernandez, Pilgrim puts in at, 49 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; characteristics of, 50, 51, 54-57; a Chilian penal colony, 52; convicts at, 52, 53.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>575</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>546</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>Juan Fernandez, governor of, 51, 52, 53, 57.<LB>Justice, unequal distribution of in California, 212-214.<LB>Kamehameha, the Charlemagne of the Sandwich Islands, 181.<LB>"Kanaka," meaning of word, 180.<LB>"Kanaka Hotel," at San Diego, 190.<LB>Kanakas.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Sandwich Islanders.<LB>Kip, Bishop, 466.<LB>La Plata, River, 26.<LB>Lagoda, ship, collision of Pilgrim with, at San Diego, 135; her later history, 504, 505; 102, 111, 117, 118, 137, 154, 155, 156, 472.<LB>Landing, difficulties of, 70, 71.<LB>"Larboard," superseded by "port," 4 n.<LB>Larboard watch, 14.<LB>Lascar, brig, 256.<LB>Latham, Gov., of California, inauguration of, 486.<LB>Lawlessness in California, 212 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:;.<LB>"Lay," use of the word on shipboard, 27 n.<LB>Lee, Custis, 470.<LB>Lee, Robert E., 470 and n.<LB>Liberty-day, on a merchantman, 139, 140.<LB>Lies, Mr., pioneer, 467, 468.<LB>Log of the Alert, last entry in, 501.<LB>Loring, Charles G., 512.<LB>Loriotte, crew of, 102, 103; collision of Pilgrim with, at San Diego, 135, 136; adrift, 266, 268, 269; 75, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 91, 117, 169, 472, 505.<LB>Los Angeles, 117, 118, 212; in 1859, 477, 478, 479; in 1911, 503, 504.<LB>Low, Capt., of the Cabot, 257, 258 and n., 507.<LB>Lower California, 66.<LB>McCarthy, Justin, <HI REND="italics">History of Our Own Times</HI>
139.sgm:, 521.<LB>Magellan, Straits of, Alert runs for, 394, 395; preparations for anchoring in, 396.<LB>Magellan Clouds, 30, 365, 369, 429.<LB>Mahanna, Sandwich-Islander, 152, 153.<LB>"Mahon soger," 24.<LB>"Man overboard," 42.<LB>Mannini, <HI REND="italics">Mr</HI>
139.sgm:., Sandwich-Islander, his singing, 185; 174, 175, 181, 347.<LB>Mare Island, 487.<LB>Mariposa County, Cal., 484.<LB>Marsh, George Walker, <HI REND="italics">alias</HI>
139.sgm: George P., ships on the Alert at San Pedro, 255; contrast between Harris and, 255, 256; his remarkable adventures, 256-258, 258 n., 473, 507, 508; last sight of, 321, 322.<LB>Mary Catherine, bark, the first sail spoken after leaving the Pacific coast, 428.<LB>Mary Frazer, bark, 258 n.<LB>Massachusetts Bay, 454.<LB>Mastiff, ship, burned while D. was sailing to Honolulu on her, 486.<LB>Mate, <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
139.sgm: (chief), his powers and duties, 12, 13; the prime minister, 12; responsible for the log, 13; <HI REND="italics">ex off</HI>
139.sgm:. the wit of the crew, 13; commands larboard watch, 14; duties of, in harbor, 109; charged with execution of captain's orders, 424.<LB>Mate of the Alert.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Brown, Richard.<LB>Mate of the Pilgrim.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Amerzene.<LB>Mate, second, his is proverbially a dog's berth, 13; the sailor's waiter, 13; commands starboard watch, 14; second, duties of, in harbor, 109.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>576</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>547</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>Mate, second, of the Pilgrim.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Foster and Hall.<LB>Mate, second, of the Alert.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Evans.<LB>Mate, third, of the Alert.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Hatch.<LB>May, Harry, joins Pilgrim at San Diego, in D.'s place, 341, 498.<LB>Melbourne, Lord, 299.<LB>Mellus, Henry, made supercargo's clerk, 93; in 1859, 478, 479; mayor of Los Angeles, in 1860, 510; 58, 59, 354, 493.<LB>Merced River, 483.<LB>Merchant captain, is Lord paramount on board, 12; extent of his power, 12; gives orders through the mate, 424, 425.<LB>Merchantmen, American, description of duties, regulations, and customs of, 11 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; practice on, as to giving and executing orders, 424; appearance of, on entering home port, 445, 446.<LB>Mermaid, brig, 10.<LB>Mexican passengers on the Alert to Monterey, 270, 271.<LB>Mexican revenue laws, 91.<LB>Mexican revenue officers, at Monterey, dress of, 91, 92.<LB>Mexican women, dress of, 95; their fondness for dress, sometimes their ruin, 96.<LB>Mexicans, no working class among, 92; an idle, thriftless people, 94; their character, dress, and language, 94 ff.; beautiful voices of 97; not given to intoxication, 216.<LB>Minor, Lieut. C. J., 511.<LB>Missions, in California, origin and growth of, 209, 210.<LB>Monterey, trading at, 93 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; the pleasantest and most civilized-looking place in California, 98; description of, 98 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; the Presidio at, 98; style of houses at, 99, 100; English and Americans at, 100; abundance of horses at, 101, 102; sports and amusements at, 102; excellent harbor of, 102; Alert arrives at, from San Francisco, 291; shore leave at, 292 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; boxing match at, 294-296; 66, 67, 86, 475.<LB>Monterey, Bay of, Pilgrim arrives in, 85, 86.<LB>Monterey, Presidio of, 210, 211.<LB>Music, at the San Diego hide-house, 199; on the California, 335, 336.<LB>Nantucket Shoals, 452, 454.<LB>Napa Valley, 487, 488, 489.<LB>"Nat" (Cape Cod boy), boxing match with George, 294-296; 230, 455, 456.<LB>Neptune, son of, 23.<LB>Newspapers, Boston, 319, 320; Mexican, 298, 299.<LB>"Nicholas," at San Diego with D., 177; his great size, 178; his past life, 178; relations with D., 179; 190, 194, 198.<LB>Nightmare on the Alert, 366, 367.<LB>Noriego y Corillo, Don&tilde;a Angustias de, Mrs. Robinson's sister, at R.'s wedding, 303, 304; in 1880, 510; Gen. Sherman and Bayard Taylor on, 511; her two marriages, 511; her death, 511; 473, 475.<LB>Noriego y Corillo, Don&tilde;a Anita de la Guerra de, marries A. Robinson, 301 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; 475.<LB>Noriego, Don Antonio, 301, 302, 473, 475.<LB>North Star, 365, 366, 429.<LB>Northeast trades, 20, 21, 357, 358, 432.<LB>Nuttall, Prof., passenger on the Alert, 359, 360, 361, 401, 411, 412.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>577</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>548</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>Nye, Capt. Gorham H., of the Loriotte, 75, 77, 135, 169, 262, 263, 473, 505.<LB>"Oahu Coffee-House," at San Diego, 190.<LB>"Oahu puffs," 185.<LB>Oakum-picking, always to be done when other work fails, 18.<LB>"Old Bess" (sow), 150, 151.<LB>Old Bill, 371.<LB>"Old Curious."  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Nuttall.<LB>Olinda (Brazil), 26.<LB>Ord, Dr., second husband of Dona&tilde;a Angustias de Noriego, 511.<LB>Ord, Rebecca H., daughter of Don&tilde;a Angustias, and wife of John H. H. Peshine, 511.<LB>Oriental Hotel, San Francisco, 465.<LB>Otter, smuggling of, 300.<LB>Pacific Ocean, deserves its name, 64.<LB><HI REND="italics">Pamperos</HI>
139.sgm: (southwest gales), 26, 27, 28.<LB>Parkman, Dr. George, 498, 499.<LB>Patagonia, 29.<LB>Peel, Sir Robert, 299.<LB>Pelew Islands, Marsh's adventures in, 256-258, 321, 322, 507.<LB> Pelican," Sandwich-Islander, 180.<LB>Penang, 494, 495.<LB>Pernambuco, 25.<LB>Peruvian, brig, 396, 397.<LB>Peshine, John H. H., 511.<LB>"Philadelphia Catechism, the," 18.<LB>Pico, Don Andres, 487.<LB>Pico, Don&tilde;a Tomasa, 482.<LB>Pilgrim, brig, D. ships on, for voyage to Pacific, 1-3; chased by a mysterious brig, 22; in the <HI REND="italics">pamperos</HI>
139.sgm:, 26, 27; nearing the Horn, 29 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; puts in at Juan Fernandez, 103 days from Boston, 49 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; leaves J. F., 54, 57; from J. F. to California, 58 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; put in order for coming on the coast, 58-60; makes land at Point Conception, 64, and drops anchor at Santa Barbara (Jan. 14, 1835), 158 days from Boston, 65; method of anchoring, at Santa Barbara, 67, 68; in gale at Santa Barbara, 76 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; in squall off Point Conception, 82 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; arrives in Bay of Monterey, 86; trade-room on, 93; cargo of, 93, 94; uncertainty as to length and nature of her voyage, 110-112; trouble brewing on, 112, 113, 114; over-officered, 115; at San Pedro, 115 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; arrives at San Diego, 134; collides with Lagoda and Loriotte there, 135, 136; man&oelig;uvred to an anchorage by Capt. Wilson, 136; up and down the coast, collecting hides, etc., 156 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; returns to San Diego, in command of Capt. Faucon, 203, 204; on the coast again, 206; D. exchanges to Alert from, 224; her working compared with Alert's, 232, 233; at San Pedro, 233; transfers hides to Alert, 235; sails to windward, 236; waiting for Alert at Monterey, 292; at San Pedro, 307, 308; at San Diego, 333; D. nearly has to rejoin, 337-341; last sight of, 342; her return to Boston, 490; her later history, 504.<LB>Pioneer Society, D. invited to speak before, 469.<LB>Plimsoll, Samuel, the "Sailor-Friend," 521, 522.<LB>Plum-duff, on Christmas, 61; 289.<LB>Point An&tilde;o Nuevo, 86, 291.<LB>Point Conception, Pilgrim makes land at, 64; dangers of, 82; dividing line between different faces of the country, 85, 86; 67, 106, 272 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 299, 474.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>578</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>549</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>Point Loma, 479, 482.<LB>Point Pino&grave;s, 85, 86, 106.<LB>Point Santa Buenaventura, 67.<LB>"Port," substituted for "larboard," 4 n.<LB>Poughkeepsie, whaler, 38 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.<LB>Presidios, primary purpose of, 210.<LB>Priests, government of, in California, 210, 211.<LB>Prize Causes, 518.<LB>Pueblo de Los Angeles.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Los Angeles.<LB>Quincy, Josiah, Pres. of Harvard, 320.<LB>Race Point, 454.<LB>Rainsford Island, 457.<LB>Rattlesnakes, at San Diego, 193-195.<LB>"Reefer, the," history of, 343 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; attempts to exchange from the California to the Alert, 343, 346; escapes from hide-house, 346, 347.<LB>Reefing, 28.<LB>Revolutions, frequent occurrence of, in California, 212.<LB>Rialto, ship, 344.<LB>Richardson, his shanty the only habitation in San Francisco in 1835, 281 and n.; 463, 469.<LB>Rigging, running, 16.<LB>Rigging, standing, "setting up," 16, 17.<LB>Riho, Riho, son of Kamehameha, 181.<LB>Rincon Point, 470.<LB>Robert, in charge of Catalina's hide-house at San Diego, 199, 200.<LB>Robertson <HI REND="italics">v</HI>
139.sgm:. Baldwin, 522.<LB>Robinson, Alfred, agent of Bryant, Sturgis &amp; Co., on the coast, unpopular with crew of Alert, 285; his marriage, at Santa Barbara, 301 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; his death, 509; 80, 82, 91, 118, 119, 127, 170, 270, 334, 337, 475, 476.<LB>Rosa, Genoese ship, 74, 75, 157, 158, 159, 197, 198, 199, 249, 254, 292, 308.<LB>Rope-yarns, 17.<LB>Royal-yards, D.'s first experience in sending down, 87, 88, 120.<LB>Russell, <HI REND="italics">Mr</HI>
139.sgm:., joins Pilgrim at Santa Barbara, 115, 116; disliked by the crew, 122; and the flogging of John, 123 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; in charge of curing hides at San Diego, 150, 177, 179; dismissed for misconduct, 313; pursued and arrested, 313.<LB>Russian bark, home letters sent by, 292.<LB>Russian brig, at San Francisco, 281, 282, 283; crew of, 282; Christmas celebration on, 289.<LB>Sachem (dog), 186.<LB>Sacramento, in 1859, 486, 487.<LB>Saginaw, despatch-boat, 488.<LB>Sail at sea, first sight of, 10.<LB>"Sail ho!" significance of cry, at San Diego, 197.<LB>Sailmaker, duties of, 14.<LB>Sail-maker, of the <HI REND="italics"> Alert. See</HI>
139.sgm: "Sails."<LB>Sailor's life, character of, 44.<LB>Sailors, peculiar cut of clothes of, 2; can sleep anywhere, 36; superstitions of, 46-48; Catholic and Protestant, 166; overstrained sense of manliness of, 316, 317; capstan songs of, 331; food of, during loading, 332; on a "temperance ship," 385, 386; quality of their tea, 386 and n.; repugnance of, to working "ground-tackle" between port and port, 396; what D. accomplished for, 519 <HI REND="italics">ff.  And see</HI>
139.sgm: Crew.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>579</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>550</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>"Sails," sail-maker of the Alert, taken with palsy, 354; 229, 230, 318, 319, 497.<LB>Salt meat, an element of discontent among the crew, 61.<LB>"Sam," from the Middle States.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Sparks, Samuel.<LB>"Sam," Marblehead boy.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Hooper, Samuel.<LB>San Diego, Pilgrim arrives at, 134; description of, 134; hide-houses at, 134; collision at, 135, 136; D. on shore leave at, 139 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; advantages of, for landing and loading hides, 149, 150; Sandwich Islanders, at, 174, 175; D. left behind at, 175, 176; D.'s life as a hide-curer at, 177 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; arrival of Fazio brig at, 186, and of Rosa and Catalina, 197, 198; polyglot assemblage of hide-curers at, 198, 199; Spanish then common speech, 198; Europeans give entertainment at, 199; Pilgrims make brief visit to, 203-206; fishing for sharks at, 206, 208; Alert arrives at, 220, 249; "our last port," 323 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; in 1859, 479 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; 66, 67, 117, 118, 173, 308 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.;.<LB>San Diego, Mission of, 143-147.<LB>San Diego, Presidio of, 143, 210, 211.<LB>San Francisco, method of collecting hides at, 283 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; in 1836 and in 1859, 463 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; shipping of, 465; places of worship in, 465, 466; marvellous history of, 485, 486; growth of, 1859 to 1911, 503; 66, 67.<LB>San Francisco, Bay of, Alert arrives in, 281, 282; rainy season at, 283; magnificence of, 290; D.'s prophecy concerning, 290; in 1836 and in 1859, 462, 463 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; 66.<LB>San Francisco, Presidio of, in 1835, 210, 211, 281; in 1859, 470.<LB>San Gabriel, Mission of, 212.<LB>San Joaquin River, 483.<LB>San Jose&acute;, 483, 488.<LB>San Jose&acute;, Mission of, 283, 284.<LB>San Juan, Pilgrim anchors at, 170; description of coast at, 170 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; loading hides at, 172, 173, 250, 251; 55.<LB>San Juan, Mission of, 170, 171.<LB>San Juan Capistrano, Mission of, 134, 211, 479.<LB>San Luis Obispo, Mission of, 211.<LB>San Pazqual, battle of, 487.<LB>San Pedro, port of Los Angeles, Pilgrim anchors at, 115; description of, 116, 117; wrecked Englishmen at, 117; furnished more hides than any port on the coast, 118; loading hides at, 119, 120; great numbers of whales at, 168, 169; in 1859, 477; in 1911, 503, 504; 156, 167, 233, 254, 307 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; 312 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 322.<LB>Sandwich-Islanders, characteristics of, 102, 103; at San Diego, 174, 175; D.'s relations with, 179, 180; their language, 179; proper names among, 180; their curiosity, 184; great smokers, 184, 185; their style of singing, 185; and sharks, 207, 208; vice-borne diseases of, 309; 68, 70, 71, 72.<LB>Sandwich Islands, trade of, with California, 179.<LB>Santa Ana, Antonio L. de, 298, 299.<LB>Santa Barbara, Pilgrim drops anchor at, Jan. 13, 1835, 65; described, 69; D. on shore at, 70 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; beach at, 71; southeasters at, 76 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 114, 115, 267, 268; funeral at, 161, 162; cock-fight at, 163; horse-racing at, 164; good-by to, 321; in 1859, 474 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; 106 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 157, 241, 242, 259, 300 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 319, 320.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>580</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>551</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara, Bay, or canal, of, 67, 68, 69.<LB>Santa Barbara, Mission of, in 1835, 69, 106, 162; in 1859, 474, 475.<LB>Santa Barbara, Presidio of, 210, 211.<LB>Santa Buenaventura, Mission of, 211.<LB>Santa Clara, 483.<LB>Santa Clara, Mission of, 283, 285.<LB>Santa Rosa Island, 79.<LB>Schmidt, in charge of Rosa's hide-house at San Diego, 200, 201.<LB>Scott, Sir W., <HI REND="italics">The Pirate</HI>
139.sgm:, 130; <HI REND="italics">Woodstock</HI>
139.sgm:, 326.<LB>Scripture, repetition of passages from, to kill time, 406.<LB>Scurvy, on the Alert, 440 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; cured by fresh vegetables, 444.<LB>Scuttled butt, 15.<LB>Sea-sickness, cure for, 9; in the Gulf Stream, 447-449.<LB>Second mate.  <HI REND="italics">See</HI>
139.sgm: Mate, second.<LB>Senator, steamer, D. visits old scenes on, 472 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.<LB>Sepulveda's rancho, 239 and n., 487.<LB>Shark-hunting at San Diego, 207, 208.<LB>Ship, full-rigged, under full sail, beauty of, 421, 422.<LB>Singing, Kanakas' peculiar style of, 185.<LB>"Small stuffs," all made on board ship, 17.<LB>Smuggling on the coast, 261, 262, 300.<LB>Snelling's Tavern, 483.<LB>"Sogering" on board, 90, 153 and n.<LB>Solon, brig, supplies Alert with potatoes and onions, 441, 442.<LB>Somerby, George ("Boston boy"), boxing-match with "Nat," 294-296, 498, 499.<LB>Somerby, Mrs. 498.<LB>Soundings on American coast, 452.<LB>Southeast trades, 364, 365, 366, 423.<LB>Southeaster, bane of Californian coast, 67.<LB>Southern Cross, 30, 365.<LB>Spanish, the common speech of all the hide-curers at San Diego, 198.<LB>Spanish Americans, loafers, 56, 57.<LB>Spanish blood, in Californians in Mexico, 95, 96.<LB>Sparks, Samuel, flogging of, 121 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 131, 132 n.; effect of flogging on, 157; in Boston, 491; his death, 491.<LB>Spun-yarn, 17.<LB>Stanislaus River, 483.<LB>Stanley, Edward, 487.<LB>Starboard watch, 14.<LB>Staten Land, 29, 32, 33, 411, 412.<LB>Stearns, Mr. (Los Angeles), 478.<LB>Steerage, disadvantages of living in, 62.<LB>Steering in a gale, 32.<LB>"Steering" hides, process of, described, 329, 330.<LB>Steward, functions of, 13, 14; king of the pantry, 13; duties of, in harbor, 109.<LB>Steward of the Alert, quarrel of, with Mate Brown, 425, 426, 411.<LB>Stewart, Jack, 416, 482, 509, 510.<LB>Stewart, Mrs. Jack, 482.<LB>Stimson, Benjamin Godfrey, D.'s shipmate on the Pilgrim, 32; his comment on D.'s account of the floggings, 132 n.; on shore leave with D. at San Diego, 140 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; wishes to exchange to the Alert, 236; buys his exchange to the Alert, 333; joins Alert at San Diego, 342; his later history and death, 509; 51, 58, 62, 84, 120, 123, 132, 204, 354, 392, 439, 482, 493.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>581</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>552</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>Stockton, Cal., 483.<LB>Studding-sail, setting, in a gale, 414, 415, 417, 418.<LB>Studding-sail gear, 16.<LB>Sumatra, death of Capt. Thompson on coast of, 493, 494.<LB>Sunday, at sea, 4, 21; off Cape Horn, 34; at Monterey, 89, 90, 105; harbor-duty on, 110; at San Diego, 139; a day of leisure in hide-curing, 189; the first, after rounding the Horn, 420, 421.<LB>Sunrise at sea, 8.<LB>Superstitions, sailors', 46-48.<LB>Swimming, a Kanaka performance, 217, 218.<LB>Tailor, the, at San Pedro, 312, 313.<LB>Tallow, method of loading, 72.<LB>Taney, Chief Justice Roger B., 299.<LB>"Tarring down," described, 59, 60, 165, 166.<LB>Taylor, Edward T. ("Father"), 90, 138.<LB>Tea, quality of, on the Alert, 386 and n.<LB>"Temperance ship," the Alert a, 385; the subject considered, 387 and n.<LB>Temple, Mr. (Los Angeles), 478.<LB>Terra del Fuego, 401.<LB>Terry, Capt. Job of the Poughkeepsie, 39.<LB>Thompson, Francis A., captain of the Pilgrim on outward voyage, his speech to the crew, 4; and 2d mate Foster, 23, 24; deposes Foster, 24, and appoints Hall, 25; sells Ballmer's effects, 45; his reply to remonstrance of the crew concerning bread-allowance, 63, 64; a "Down-east Johnny-cake," 64, 65; irritation between crew and, never allayed, 64; trouble brewing between, and the mate, 75; and Foster's request for shore leave at Monterey, 105; contrast between his character and Mate Amerzene's, 113; unduly severe, 113, 114; his ill-humor at San Pedro, and its results, 121 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.; the flogging of Sam, 123, 124, and of John the Swede, 125, 126, 132 n.; his violent rage, 126; orders D. to watch hides at San Pedro by night, 129; and the collisions at San Diego, 135, 136; and Capt. Bradshaw's sarcasm, 137; and Foster, 154; leaves D. behind at hide-house at San Diego, 175; brings the Alert to San Diego, as captain, 221; assents to D.'s exchange, 224; and Mate Brown, 234; and "Hope," 310; orders D. to rejoin the Pilgrim, 337; experiences a change of heart, 338, 339; and D.'s swollen face, 380; murmurings of crew against, because of failure to make sail, 390, 391; his speech to the crew, 392, 393; excitement as to his plans, 394, 395; running for Magellan Strait, 394; carrying sail for home, 414; controversy with Mate Brown as to executing orders, 424 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:., 425; Captain Wilson on, 473; his treatment of Amerzene, 492, 493; subsequent career of, 493, 494; dies on coast of Sumatra, 494; not a good navigator, said Faucon, 505, 506; 25, 26, 31, 38, 39, 57, 58, 61, 68, 71, 73, 76, 77, 78, 80, 82, 83, 89, 127, 128, 133, 172, 174, 236, 251, 253, 262, 273, 276, 277, 314, 348, 350, 351, 352, 372, 374, 396, 398, 408, 411, 412, 433, 441, 442, 458.<LB>Thompson, brother of Capt. T., 81, 82.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>582</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>553</PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<P>Thompson, Mrs., wife of Capt. T.'s brother, 81, 82.<LB>Thompson, nephew of Capt. T., 506.<LB>Thunder-storm, a typical tropic, 433-436.<LB>Todos Santos, Bay of, 66.<LB>"Tom Cox's traverse," 90.<LB>Trading at Monterey, described, 93 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.<LB>Trade-winds.  <HI REND="italics"> See</HI>
139.sgm: Northeast trades and Southeast trades.<LB>Trinidad, 429.<LB>Tuolumne River, 483.<LB>"Two Years before the Mast," much read in California, 468, 469; written in 1840, 512; characterized, 516, 517; indirect influence of, did much to relieve hardships of sailors, 520 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.<LB>United States, report of war between France and, 259 <HI REND="italics">ff</HI>
139.sgm:.<LB>Upper California, 66.<LB>Vallejo, Don Guadalupe, commandante of Presidio of San Francisco, 290, 487, 488.<LB>Vallejo, Don&tilde;a Rosalia, wife of Lies, 468.<LB>Vallejo, Don Salvador, 488.<LB>Vallejo, town, 488.<LB>Vigilance Committee, 469, 485.<LB>Warner, Mr. (Los Angeles), 478.<LB>Watches, on shipboard, division of time into, 14, 15.  <HI REND="italics">And see</HI>
139.sgm: Anchor watch, and Dog-watches.<LB>Waters, Catherine, mother of Capt. Faucon, 508.<LB>Watson, Sarah, marries D., 519.<LB>Wellington, Duke of, 299.<LB>"Welly" (dog), 193.<LB>Whalers, peculiarities of, 264 and n.<LB>Whales, breathing of, 32, 33; at San Pedro, 168, 169.<LB>White, Harry, 453.<LB>Williams, Thomas W., buys the Alert, 499; letter of, to D., 500, 501.<LB>Wilmington and Liverpool Packet, whaler, at Santa Barbara, 263; her crew, 263, 264; an evening aboard, 265; her boat capsized, 267; poor seamanship on, 269.<LB>Wilson, Capt., of the Ayacucho, man&oelig;uvres the Pilgrim at San Diego, 136; in 1859, 472; his opinion of this book, 472, 473; 68, 77, 79, 80, 233, 259, 479, 483.<LB>Wood Island, collecting wood and water at, 285-288.<LB>Wooding excursions, 201, 202.<LB>Wrightington, Tom (San Diego), 481.<LB>Ximenes, 209.<LB>Yerba Buena, 281, 470.<LB>Yosemite Valley, the, 484.<LB>Yount, John, 487, 488.</p></DIV>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>583</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<DIV><P>The Riverside Press</p><P>CAMBRIDGE. MASSACHUSETTS</p><P>U.S.A.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>584</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
139.sgm:<illus entity="a139-0061" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Course of the Brig Pilgrim from Boston to California and of the Ship Alert from California to Boston</p></CAPTION>
139.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>585</CONTROLPGNO>
139.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-140</TITLE>
140.sgm:<TITLE>The round trip from the Hub to the Golden gate, by Susie C. Clark:  a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
140.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
140.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
140.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
140.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
140.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
140.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
140.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>02-1404</LCCN>
140.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
140.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>25886</COPYRIGHT>
140.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>THE ROUND TRIP</P>
140.sgm:<P>FROM THE HUB</P>
140.sgm:<P>TO</P>
140.sgm:<P>THE GOLDEN GATE</P>
140.sgm:<P>BY</P>
140.sgm:<P>SUSIE C. CLARK</P>
140.sgm:<P>AUTHOR OF "A LOOK UPWARD" "TO BEAR WITNESS" ETC.</P>
140.sgm:<P>BOSTON MDCCCXC</P>
140.sgm:<P>LEE AND SHEPARD PUBLISHERS</P>
140.sgm:<P>10 MILK STREET NEXT "THE OLD SOUTH MEETING HOUSE"</P>
140.sgm:<P>NEW YORK CHARLES T. DILLINGHAM</P>
140.sgm:<P>718 AND 720 BROADWAY</P>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1890, BY SUSIE C. CLARK</P>
140.sgm:<P>THE ROUND TRIP</P>
140.sgm:<P>PRESS OF</P>
140.sgm:<P>AMERICAN PRINTING AND ENGRAVING CO.</P>
140.sgm:<P>50 ARCH STREET, BOSTON</P>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>I.  DEPARTURE<HSEP>5<LB>II.  THROUGH CANADA TO CHICAGO<HSEP>10<LB>III.  ACROSS THE PLAINS TO SANTA FE<HSEP>15<LB>IV.  OVER THE DESERT TO PARADISE<HSEP>20<LB>V.  PASADENA<HSEP>24<LB>VI.  PSAADENA--ITS ENVIRONS<HSEP>30<LB>VII.  LOS ANGELES--SANTA MONICA<HSEP>36<LB>VIII.  SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>41<LB>IX.  RIVERSIDE<HSEP>48<LB>X.  SAN DIEGO<HSEP>54<LB>XI.  EN ROUTE<HSEP>62<LB>XII.  SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>71<LB>XIII.  OAKLAND<HSEP>81<LB>XIV.  THE RAINY SEASON<HSEP>87<LB>XV.  SONOMA COUNTY<HSEP>93<LB>XVI.  THE LICK OBSERVATORY<HSEP>99<LB>XVII.  SANTA CRUZ--MONTEREY<HSEP>111<LB>XVIII.  TO THE YO SEMITE<HSEP>119<LB>XIX.  IN THE VALLEY<HSEP>132<LB>XX.  HOMEWARD BOUND<HSEP>144<LB>XXI.  SALT LAKE CITY<HSEP>153<LB>XXII.  THE SCENIC ROUTE<HSEP>163<LB>XXIII.  HOW WE SPENT MEMORIAL DAY<HSEP>172<LB>XXIV.  THE HOME STRETCH<HSEP>183</P>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>DEPARTURE</P>
140.sgm:<P>A CERTAIN dear little lady, who was so unfortunate (though she might not agree with our representation of the case) as to marry a naval officer, and consequently spent her days migrating from one port to another, on the eastern, western, or southern shores of our republic, according to the transient location of her husband's ship, that she might gain occasional glimpses of the glittering shoulder-straps and brass buttons of her truant lord, once gave to us as her profound conviction, this maxim: "If you want to be uncomfortable-- <HI REND="italics">travel</HI>
140.sgm:<P>We could not gainsay her then, but can see plainly enough now, that the confession ranked her as one who has never placed herself under the espionage of those successful managers, Messrs.  Raymond and Whitcomb, who make of travelling a science and an art, whose trains furnish every feature of a home but its usual stationary quality, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>But California is much nearer Boston than it was in '49.  The journey thither is hardly now considered much of a trip.  The Raymonds certainly leave you no anxiety in regard to it, and little to do but to fold your arms and be taken care of.  The start is made from the station at the foot of Causeway street, which structure seems a relic of some feudal age, and makes a refreshing oasis to the artistic eye amid the square, stiff, red walls of its democratic surroundings.  Its stern exterior and battlemented towers, with its moat and draw-bridge might have served as a castle of the Norman conqueror, although his outposts of defence were not adorned by such mazy network of electric wires.</P>
140.sgm:<P>The Fitchburg's straight and narrow path runs through classic ground; Cambridge, earliest home of letters, name indissolubly connected with memories of Longfellow, Agassiz, Holmes, Gray, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:and a score of lesser lights, Cambridge, which also holds the deserted hearthstone, and the friends who waft, we know, a strong God-speed; Belmont, long the home of Howells; Waverley, whose ancient oaks and Beaver brook are immortalized in Lowell's limpid verse; Waltham, making time for half the world; and Concord,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Where first th' embattled farmers stood,<LB>And fired the shot heard round the world,'</HI>
140.sgm:<LB>the opening of that history, written in the nation's heart-blood, whose second chapter is marked by the granite shaft which rises from Charlestown's hill.  Fair Walden's placid wave recalls the gentle soul who built a lodge upon its shore and learned his lessons in Nature's school.  The tall hemlocks and whispering pines that fringe its banks, chant no requiem in our ears for the departed great--Emerson and Hawthorne, Thoreau and Alcott--whose fellowship they have enjoyed, but murmur thanks that some there are in every age who understand their song and interpret all their mystic lore in words that our duller ears can reach.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Darkness begins to settle as we enter the lovely Deerfield valley, veiling the winding river and diversity of hill and glen, the grace of outline and brilliancy of autumnal foliage.  But here the courteous conductor invites us to the dining car, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:attentive liveried waiters present us with a <HI REND="italics">menu</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Later on, our commodious section is converted into a tempting couch, and just as we are composing ourselves to rest thereon, no less secure in the protection which never faileth than we would be in the familiar home-nest, a parting glance of inquiry toward the outside world reveals a giant mountain wall directly athwart our path.  Even our iron horse pauses for the moment, as if dismayed, then with two or three exultant neighs plunges straight onward, for the giant opes his heart and lets us in.  Mind has conquered matter, as it always must, being its parent.  Ten minutes or more are required for the gloomy passage, but what do those ten minutes represent?  What years of patient toil, and herculean obstacles overcome,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Ere first the locomotive wheels<LB>Rolled thro' the Hoosac tunnel bore."</HI>
140.sgm:<P>First projected in 1825, the tunnel was discussed in legislative halls for a quarter of a century, was laid repeatedly on the table and partially forgotten, only to be revived, for the matter--like Banquo's ghost--would not down.  A royal road to the West was the coming need, and in 1851 the work was begun.  The State appropriated $2,000,000, but the actual expense was ten times that amount, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>After bustling, noisy North Adams, with its ever clanging bells, has been left behind, the silence of slumber reigns in our narrow borders, while with ever increasing pace we speed onwards, finding ourselves at early dawn, or late starlight, in the region between Syracuse and pretty Rochester, a country whose lazy canal-boats mock the demands of our modern commerce, and where the sun rises gloriously in the northwest, or so it seemed from the sightly observatory of a Pullman pillow.</P>
140.sgm:<P>And the evening and the morning were the first day!</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>THROUGH CANADA TO CHICAGO</P>
140.sgm:<P>IT has been said that the Raymonds always give their patrons more than they agree to, and therefore their California excursionists were not surprised on the second day out to be taken through London and Paris before proceeding on their American tour.  But travelling in foreign countries has its disadvantages.  For instance, we are nothing if not literary.  Correspondence with friends at home is a trade well followed in our midst, and at every stopping place mail boxes are eagerly sought for, in which to deposit these friendly greetings.  At Hamilton, Canada, a most enticing letter-box was seen, and a lady of the party who shall be nameless, was delegated to skip across the intervening tracks with a freight of postal cards.  On the way thither, the thought that she was in Canada bid her pause, but recalling that the same cards when mailed in Boston reached Canada in safety she thought it a poor rule that would not work both ways, so she <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>"They won't go!"</P>
140.sgm:<P>"Won't go?  And why?"</P>
140.sgm:<P>Explanations followed, and at this juncture a sleepy Canadian shuffled up and offered to put extra stamps on the whole batch when the collector should arrive.  Gratefully, the lady took from her purse some brand new pennies, bright and glittering as gold pieces, but the man removed neither hand from his pocket to receive the same.  Then she tried him on some this-year nickels, but with an extra puff of his old clay pipe he grunted out:</P>
140.sgm:<P>"They're no use to me."</P>
140.sgm:<P>Growing exasperated, she next sought for dimes, ten cent's worth of pure silver the world over, but the provoking individual was still unmoved.  Here the incensed American citizen made a stand.  She assured him in good strong English, which at least he did have the grace to take, that his miserable Canadian dimes were in very bad odor with us; the Post Offices wouldn't take them, the West End conductors refused to look at them, and that her dimes were the only legitimate dimes in good and regular standing, but just here the courteous agent of the party, who unlike the average policeman, <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
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140.sgm:<P>At twilight of our long Canadian day we were ferried across the St. Clair river to Michigan, and the stars and stripes once more waved over the brave and the free.  We even fancied that the American bird clapped his wings and crowed with especial zest and fervor upon our entrance next morning into boisterous, rampant Chicago.</P>
140.sgm:<P>And where in all this fair land is there anything just like Chicago--so masterful, rich and proud--the young Leviathan of the West?  Rising from her cleansing fires in massive, stately grandeur, she uses the heroic scale of measurement in her every expression of life.  She builds her warehouses by the mile, her palaces cover leagues.  She is already making confident preparation, to hold here the World's Fair of 1892.  For, she reasons, what would the trans-atlantic visitor know of the wondrous length and breadth of our country if he landed in New York, and saw only the Exposition?</P>
140.sgm:<P>The beautiful Lincoln Park, with its Lake boulevard, hopes to add ere that date still another to its many attractions in an artificial drive across the water, 800 feet from shore, parallel with the Park.  Wealth is plentiful, merchants princely, and Western hearts generous.  A new statue was placed in the Park, a week ago, a bronze figure of De La Salle, a discoverer of hardly less note than Columbus, for did he not discover Chicago?  It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The Park visitor can hardly fail to visit the tank of sea-lions, as his attention is drawn thither by the constant, hideous barking noise with which these unpleasant, slimy creatures seek to relieve their rudimentary minds.  One cannot help the query <HI REND="italics">cui bono</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Chicago's Public Library occupies commodious quarters on the top floor of the city's magnificent Court House, with many stations in various other districts.  The streets of Chicago are noticeably more uncleanly and filled with refuse than the thoroughfares of a certain thrifty New England city we could mention, but the visitor who dared to comment on this state of affairs was assured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>ACROSS THE PLAINS TO SANTA FE</P>
140.sgm:<P>FROM Chicago, our course lies straight as the crow flies across the prairie State of Illinois and through its acres upon acres of corn fields, to Rock Island and the Mississippi.  This noble river, broad, placid and beautiful, is crossed at sunset, while it still reflects the sky's warm glow in its every ripple.  Its sister river, the Missouri, reached at daybreak the next morning, is more churlish.  Yellow, tawny and turbulent, she veils her unloveliness with a fog so dense that her width can hardly be discerned from the height of the bridge, and Kansas City on its rugged bluffs is entirely blotted out.  Indeed the precipitous heights on which the place seems perched, are so exaggerated by this deceptive haze that we now credit the legend of a cow who here fell out of a pasture and broke her neck.</P>
140.sgm:<P>From this point onward we enter upon the plains and cross many leagues of level, unfertile, but to unaccustomed eyes, most interesting stretch of country.  Its chief vegetation consists of clumps <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Herds of cattle are occasionally seen, though what they can find on this yellowish grey soil by which to support life is a mystery.  That some have failed in the struggle for existence, bleached bones and skeletons along our path sadly testify.  A stray emigrant train, drawn by patient oxen, threads tediously the old Indian trail, and in the distance, on our Western boundary, is a background of snow-capped mountains, the Spanish peaks, the Custar range, and at Trinidad the adjacent and awe-inspiring Fisher's Peak.  It seems a few rods away, but we are assured it is 14 miles distant by actual measurement, such is the deceptive brilliancy of this glorious air.  We are favored with many different views of this Gibraltar-like fortress as we skirt its borders, and, dividing our attention on the other side is another lofty eminence, surmounted by a monument, and known <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Then, leaving these heights, we ride for miles and yet other miles, without a tree or rock in sight, the land level as if it had been rolled, until it reaches and touches the distant sky.  Just before twilight we reach Las Vegas Hot Springs, and here we become still further the recipients of the Raymond generosity, for a telegram from Boston directs that after spending a few hours at the Springs, (to test the boiling waters and climb to the turret of the pretty hotel, a veritable Hall of Montezuma, to enjoy the charming view), we are to be treated to a side trip not down in the bill, and move on during the night to Santa Fe&acute;, that we may spend Sunday in that quaint old town, the oldest in the country, for it ante-dates St. Augustine by some years, the Spaniards <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Who can ever forget a Sabbath spent in Santa Fe&acute;?  Even now in its freshness it seems like an impossible dream of the middle ages.  We were first invited to Fort Marcy at 9, to witness Guard Mount (whatever that is), and inspection of guns, the soldier who owned the cleanest one being appointed boss of the squad for the day.  (This is not a strict quotation from Hardee.)  A very fine band is stationed here, and gave excellent selections of sacred music, greatly appreciated by their impromptu audience.</P>
140.sgm:<P>We next visit the Cathedral at the hour of mass, feeling as if we belonged to another race than that of the devout worshippers here assembled, while still realizing that we are all children of the same Infinite Father.  The women all wore black shawls over their heads, gathered under the chin with a peculiar grasp of the left hand.  We then seek the little Presbyterian church established here and attend its service, after which we stroll about the narrow streets, designed only for donkey travel, or <HI REND="italics">burros</HI>
140.sgm:, as the tough little creatures are called, these primitive thoroughfares boasting no sidewalks but are lined with low adobe houses, whose unattractive exteriors are often a mask to conceal the home within, the pleasant court-yard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>In the <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The Ramona school for the education of Indian children, under the auspices of the A.M.A., is located here, as also a governmental school, and the University of New Mexico.  The Territorial Capitol building is very fine.</P>
140.sgm:<P>But the most interesting thing we learned at Santa Fe&acute; was that in a low building fronting on the <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>OVER THE DESERT TO PARADISE</P>
140.sgm:<P>PASSING from New Mexico into Arizona during the night, the tourist opens his eyes when the next morning dawns, upon a still wider stretch of plains, on longer areas of sterile waste, until he feels ready to exclaim: "Is there no end to this country?"  And yet the monotony never becomes wearisome to this merry party, who seldom fail to pour tumultuously out onto the platform of every little station where we stop to take on water or ice, and if time permits, the town is invaded, stores visited, shanties inspected that often bear signs of disproportionate size, labelled "Palace Hotel," "Big Lunch, 5 cts.," or "Aunt Hannah's Pioneer Store," this proprietress being, she affirms, a Boston lady, who having kept the store 53 years, is desirous of selling out and returning to her native city, a decision of which our Eastern capitalists on the lookout for investments, should become cognizant.  Most of the towns in this far West are lighted at evening by electric <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>At noon, the wild Canon Diablo is passed, an utterly barren gorge of rocks and on the iron bridge which crosses it, the train pauses a little longer than some weak nerves prefer that all may inspect this natural wonder.  And now the San Francisco mountains rear their heads across our horizon, and the scene grows wilder.  Flag-Staff is passed (so-called because on an adjacent peak, Gen. Fremont hoisted the American flag), and here also is a quarry of red stone used by Los Angeles builders.  Then for some time we wind around Williams' Mountain, a grand height, with the tombstone to the old pioneer whose name it bears, plainly visible on its summit, and just before nightfall we thread our narrow, tortuous course around Johnson's canon, a dangerous chasm, whose precipitous depths, and jagged outlines, as viewed from our narrow perch on the mountain's side, we are glad to leave behind.</P>
140.sgm:<P>"The Needles," a narrow pass, which with the Colorado river forms the boundary line between Arizona and California are passed at midnight, together with the eastern portion of the Mojave desert, but there is desert enough to hold out into another day, and still wider, sandy, barren, alkaline plains greet our waking eyes, salt lying in places white as a hoar frost, the only attempt at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>But sterility reigns only without.  Far too regularly the announcement is made that "Lunch," or "Dinner is now ready in the dining-car"; a summons often greeted with a look of comical dismay that expresses: "have we got to go through that ordeal so soon again?"  For the presiding genii of that dining-car might well be arrested for cruelty to animals, so abundantly do they provide the choicest viands to this indolent, un-exercised, over-fed, pampered freight of livestock.</P>
140.sgm:<P>At noon we begin our ascent of the Sierra Madre range of mountains, rising 215 feet to the mile amid the sublimest scenery on every side, until we reach at the summit, Cajone Pass, which is grand beyond description, and begin our descent toward the San Bernardino valley, or as some one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Speculation has been rife all day as to what time we shall "get in," as if we were on shipboard in a trackless waste of water, instead of an ocean of land; the passage of an eastward-bound overland train is calculated upon, as to what time it left Los Angeles, and now the hour of separation for this jolly family approaches.  Maps and chatteis are collected, autographs exchanged, farewells are waved to a carload of tourists that leaves us for the Redlands, a fruit-bearing district, of whose fertility and rapid growth we have heard such glowing accounts from some of its residents, our pleasant travelling companions, most of them New England people of sterling worth; we also take leave of another coterie, who branch off into the Pomona valley, and at dusk, we too alight upon "the crown of all the valley," fair, unrivalled Pasadena.</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>PASADENA</P>
140.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA is not all a Paradise, for we have traversed miles of dreary, barren waste within her borders, but if there is an Edenic garden on earth, one fit for the occupancy of the primeval pair, that spot is Pasadena.  It is true we know not what awaits us in other portions of this Golden State, but we are constantly meeting people who having tried a residence in all other localities, return delightedly to this beautiful San Gabriel valley.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Along its northern borders stretches the Sierra Madre range of mountains, a barrier that effectually protects the city nestling at its feet from every rude, cold blast, and adds to it yet another blessing, that of pure water, the principal supply coming from Devil's Gate, though one would naturally look for fire from this source rather than cooling springs.  The charm also of grandeur and sublimity, Pasadena by this proximity, does not lack.  With David, we "lift our eyes unto the hills," for we cannot help it.  They entice us, they appal us, they command our reverence, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>On a lofty summit of the range, known as Wilson's Peak, has been recently established the Southern Pacific Observatory, for which Messrs.  Alvan Clark and Sons, are manufacturing what it is expected will prove the largest lens in the world.</P>
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140.sgm:<P>Sixteen years ago last summer (in 1873), a little colony from Indiana emigrated westward to select a location for a new home in the then barren wilds of California.  Arriving in Los Angeles in August, they thoroughly examined localities in San Diego and San Bernardino counties, but finally selected the present site of Pasadena as offering the greatest advantages of soil, water and scenery, and the world now applauds the wisdom of their choice.  But when our pioneers first settled here, in all this region now teeming with fertility and luxuriance of fruitful growth on every hand, not a tree existed, save two or three live-oaks, and the whole plateau was one sheet of flame under the reign of the golden poppy, so common in California.</P>
140.sgm:<P>When a name for the little colony was sought, that of Indianola was discussed as indicative of its origin, but to the late Dr. T. B. Elliot is due the suggestion of Pasadena, an Iroquois word signifying the "Crown of the Valley," a title which by every right it holds.</P>
140.sgm:<P>With a rapidity of cultivation almost incredible to Eastern experience, the town is now one vast garden and orange grove, though this latter designation seems to us a misnomer.  A "grove" to New England ears suggests a spontaneous growth of tallish trees which cast a shade upon the greensward, or tangled underbrush beneath.  There is no shade in an orange orchard, and if there were, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The eucalyptus tree, a native of Australia, abounds here, and is a rapid grower, although it reveals much indecision of purpose, as to whether it will prove itself first cousin to the willow or the poplar, two and often three distinct types of leaves, in shape and color, appearing on the same tree.  It invariably begins existence in a different frame of mind from that which maturer reflection dictates.</P>
140.sgm:<P>And who shall describe that graceful, airy growth, that sensitive plant aspiring skyward, known as the pepper-tree?  Each leaf a pendant fern, of the most delicate spring green, massed together in luxuriant clusters, and drooping a little like the weeping-willow though not so much, while <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Miles of low cypress hedge, that lends itself so readily to any device of the pruner's knife, to arches, gateposts surmounted by urns, vases, or baskets with graceful handles, adorn or enclose handsome residences everywhere.  And of the flowers one hesitates to speak unless the pen could be dipped in rainbow dye.  Climatic conditions being here so perfect and so exceptional, only the lightest frost two or three times a year being ever experienced, no fires necessary in an ordinary season, even at Christmas, open doors and seats on the veranda being enjoyable save at evening or early morn, plants of all kinds have nothing else to do but grow without ceasing, missing thus the customary experience of their Eastern sisters who are seized by the nape of their slender necks just as they get into the mood of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Growing on then, year after year, it is no wonder that geraniums and rosebushes here become trees bristling with brilliant petals, that fuschias and lantanas grow beyond recognition, that arbutilons above our heads swing their myriad bright bells upon the air, that smilax spontaneously reaches the eaves, that ivy-geraniums cover stone walls, arbors, anything their delicate fingers can twine around, that heliotropes grow trunks that bid fair to rival that of an elephant, that dense flower-crowned hedges of callas mark boundary lines, that--that--in short, that Nature having lost all run of seasons, and her usual methodical habits of alternate rest and action, runs madly riot, being drunken with new wine--the wine of the elixir of life.</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>PASADENA--ITS ENVIRONS</P>
140.sgm:<P>THE chief criticism we have heard of Pasadena is that there is not enough of it.  But we have found it too wide in extent, its attractions too numerous to speedily exhaust.  Day after day we thread its thoroughfares, or take its intersecting lines of horse or mule cars; we drive into the adjoining country, but our list of unvisited lions is still a long one.  We make no allowance in our delightful excursions for unfavorable weather, since day after day the sky is as clear as if it had been swept, the sun warm as June, making outside wraps unnecessary, and yet while basking in this sunshine which knows no shadow, Pasadena reports no case of sunstroke, no mad-dogs, or thunder showers.  Its people are mostly of Eastern birth and thence, it goes without saying, most intelligent, while possessing that warm, open-hearted cordiality so characteristic of this genial clime, a spirit too often crowded out by the nervous tension of our own work-a-day atmosphere.</P>
140.sgm:<P>One of the first out-lying attractions to command our attention is naturally "The Raymond," and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Extending our drive beyond "The Raymond," through fertile ranches, given largely to orange, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The little Mexican village of San Gabriel is a most uncanny place.  One breathes more freely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>A most interesting place to visit, at the other side of Pasadena, is the Ostrich farm, this "handsome" climate proving favorable to their successful culture.  Three birds have been raised here from babyhood that are now fourteen months old and seven or eight feet high; the rest of the brood are Australian emigrants and can rest their chins on a nine foot pole, although but four years old, and no ostrich reaches his full growth till he attains the age of seven years.  Strange ballet-dancer kind of a bird, as awkward in pose as a novice in her first tights, and yet moving with a certain majestic dignity of bearing that is "very like" a camel.  The carriage of the long ungainly neck also, and the construction of the foot reveals this early companionship of the desert.  How interesting are these connecting links in the great chain of life, links forged by the marvellous wisdom and diversity of the Creative Mind.</P>
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140.sgm:<P>The ostrich has a clear liquid dark eye, as large as a calf's though with far more expression, which displays a peculiar scintillating flash; he has a broad flat head, a beak of generous proportions, short tongue and no teeth, and when a dozen pair of these piercing eyes, from the top of long, swaying, animated lamp-wicks hover in the air above and around you, or examine your hat-trimming as well as your hands for stray kernels of corn, the effect is rather startling.  It is likewise most amusing to see them fill their mouths with water from the tank, then slowly raise their heads to allow it to run down the yard or more of gullet, its passage being plainly visible to the attentive observer.  What would not the gourmand give for an organ of taste thus elongated?</P>
140.sgm:<P>Feeling doubtless that they were on exhibition, with their reputation at stake, a few of the birds showed their paces, flapped their wings, and executed a <HI REND="italics">pas seul</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The kindly old gentleman who has the troupe in charge gave much valuable information concerning the birds, and corrected many mistaken opinions regarding them.  They are plucked of their feathers about twice a year, or once in seven months, they lay about ten or twelve eggs in a season, which are invariably hatched by the sun <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>No letter from Pasadena ever omits to extol this locality as a health resort.  The present notice must therefore remain incomplete, for we who are enfranchised from bondage to the flesh, whose real habitat is the realm of spirit, recognize no East or West, no favorable or unfavorable physical conditions, being freed therefrom, and dwelling, in any land, "forever with the Lord" of all health and wholeness.</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES--SANTA MONICA</P>
140.sgm:<P>IN the early and prosperous days of the Spanish Mission in California, soldiers were stationed at the various sanctuaries whose service it was to forcibly capture converts from the native tribes and awe them into submission, indeed it is recorded of one worthy father, who was very skillful in the use of the lasso, that "riding at full gallop into an Indian village, he would select his man as a slave-driver would his human chattel, he would lasso him, drag him to the Mission, tie him up and whip him into subjection, baptize him, Christianize him (?) and set him to work, all within the space of one hour; then away for another, without rest, <HI REND="italics">such was his zeal for the conversion of infidels</HI>
140.sgm:<P>What wonder that such "conversions" resulted in the degradation and ultimate extinction of these tribes, for, savage foes as they proved to other assailants, they strangely enough made little resistance to these peremptory measures of the holy fathers.  Superstition holds such potent sway over the untutored mind.</P>
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140.sgm:<P>Eventually it became necessary to provide some place of residence where the Mission soldiers who had so valiantly served their time, and who still desired to remain in this country, might retire with their families.  For this purpose an order dated at San Gabriel Mission, August 26, 1781, was issued by the Governor of California--Felipe de Neve--directing the establishment of a pueblo, or town, upon the site lately occupied by the Indian village, Yang-na.  This new town was to be under the especial patronage and fostering protection of "Our Lady, the Queen of the Angels," and to be known by her name, <HI REND="italics">La Pueblo de la Reina de los Angeles</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Situated in a level plain of wide extent, with high mountain ranges at her back, and an ocean at her feet, while on either hand stretches the most extensive fruit-bearing country in the world, how could this fair city fail to thrive and flourish and grow as if indeed all good angels smiled upon her?  She numbers to-day 80,000 inhabitants, and her miles of broad level avenues are filled with fine buildings and noble residences that might serve as architectural models, including a City Hall and Post Office of which she may well be proud; they abound with granite blocks, hotels and stores stocked as choicely as the emporiums of our Eastern merchants, indeed we have seldom visited <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>It uses the adjacent port of San Pedro for its already extensive commerce with Alaska, Mexico, and the islands of the sea, but a favorite beach-resort, thirteen miles distant, is Santa Monica, where an enjoyable day can be spent.  It was here that we first sighted the broad Pacific.  Balboa must look to his laurels, we too have discovered it.  And it is like the Atlantic as are two halves of an orange.  There is the same uneasy restlessness, and tumultuous heaving and throbbing of its mighty heart, the same ceaseless moan and sob and wail, the embodiment of everything that is sad, dreary, cruel, and pitiless, its <HI REND="italics">miserere</HI>
140.sgm: possibly for the many brave souls it has dragged down and crushed with greedy embrace.  Obedient to the same attractions, paying court to the same fickle lunar dame, whether in coquettish mood she veils her face or illuminates these watery depths with the broad fulness of her radiant beams, the Pacific, like her ocean twin, beats time in regular rhythm to the anthem of the universe, with her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>But looking landward we at last mark a difference.  The Nantaskets and Reveres of our Atlantic coast boast no mountains like this Santa Monica range which runs down one arm of the little bay quite to the water's edge.  Their sweet breath likewise fills all the air.  The briny, fishy odor which our olfactories can recall is to a landsman most blessedly conspicuous by its absence.  The usual barren waste of beach-resorts, their scanty verdure, the puny spindling trees that struggle bravely to eke out a half-existence are here replaced by an adjacent garden whose boundary hedges are a thick mass of blooming Marguerites, whose taller growths are date-palms, banana trees, and magnolias bearing their huge white waxen flowers upturned to the sun, inviting the bees, the butterflies, and humming-birds to bathe, at will, in their chalices of fragrant nectar.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Shells of new varieties abound here, and there is one other oddity noticeable.  Old Sol has lost his bearings, like everything else, in this land of topsy-turvy.  We have been accustomed, in regarding the ocean at mid-day, to have the sun and the long lane of light which he casts upon the wave, and which every separate ripple delights to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:catch a little of and run away with, on our <HI REND="italics">right</HI>
140.sgm: hand.  Here he had the effrontery, as we face the Pacific, to offend our sense of fitness by pouring forth all his glory upon our <HI REND="italics">left</HI>
140.sgm: hand, and seems to guide his course directly toward the East.  If we turn about and get <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
140.sgm: in the right quarter of the heavens, the ocean is <HI REND="italics">behind</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The little town of Santa Monica close by, boasts a pleasant park, and extensive ostrich farm, and three miles away in a verdant plain, occupying three spacious red-roofed buildings, is the Soldiers' Home, whose inmates have so dearly bought the comforts they now enjoy.  A farmer whom we pass is ploughing with three mules abreast, a large blue heron flies startled from a reedy swamp, strange looking creature with his long legs and bill to float in the air, other unfamiliar voices warble in our ears, mocking-birds call to us from their leaf-embowered nests, while warm, fragrance-laden breezes efface the memory of bare, leafless trees and chilling blasts which we have known at this season.  In this land "where everlasting spring abides, and never-fading flowers," we wonder if indeed it can be November anywhere.</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA</P>
140.sgm:<P>FROM earliest childhood the praises of Santa Barbara, more than of any other spot in California have been chanted in our ears; it has been pictured as the most favored haunt of Flora and Pomona, the chosen resort of poet and artist who find in its golden, <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Yet charms Santa Barbara undoubtedly possesses of a very high order.  Its climate is perhaps without a parallel.  Unlike many other southern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>It is also "beautiful for situation," covering the pleasant slope from the base of the Santa Ynez mountains, which form its picturesque background, down to the lovely Bay, not unlike the Bay of Naples in contour, whose misty horizon line is broken twenty miles away by three verdant islands, one of them being used as a ranch by the largest sheep owners in the world.  There is also here a pretty curving beach, too rocky however for comfortable bathing, with a swiftly-running surf that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara is a city of one street, leading straight as an arrow from the terminus of its long ocean pier (where steamers pause daily en route to San Diego or San Francisco), for two miles out toward the mesas, or foot hills.  This unshaded thoroughfare has a fine smooth asphaltum floor, making a pleasant cleanly, though noisy driveway, whose borders are devoted almost wholly to business.  Leading from this main street are short side avenues where pretty residences abound, though far less attention is paid here to the adornment of grounds than in the Eden to which our eyes have been recently accustomed.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Of the 8000 inhabitants which Santa Barbara boasts, the foreign element in its population is, at present, very large, about a dozen swarthy Mexican faces being met to that of every white man.  This brings a rough, rowdy, surly atmosphere to the promenade most unwelcome, indeed quite unbearable to the spiritually sensitive.  In fact, here as elsewhere the lady pedestrian is the observed of all observers.  Woman usually drives, (a span at that), and like Jehu driveth furiously, or she rides.  Equestrian exercise, for both sexes, is begun we should judge at the tender age of three years, and thereafter steadily followed at a breakneck pace.  One gentleman here owns a saddle upon which by his order $4000 of Mexican coins has been affixed.  Single equipages are the exception in California.  Horses must be more plenty here than in Mass., for grocers, butchers, milkmen, even the John Chinamen, in collecting for their laundries, almost invariably drive a span.</P>
140.sgm:<P>The old Mission Church of Santa Barbara is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:the best preserved and finest of its kind in the country.  It is still occupied by holy <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The surrounding views are very fine, and to enjoy one of the loveliest panoramas this mundane <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>We reach the peak suddenly at last with a surprise that no exclamation can exhaust.  Before us the glassy bay, beyond the illimitable depths of the broad, calm Pacific, at our feet and on either side the loveliest of valleys.  Santa Barbara on the right is a delight to the eye, while on our left stretch the fertile fields of Carpinteria, and of Montecito, where we have viewed the largest grape vine in the world (measurements become tiresome), of Summerland, where the Spiritualists of this coast have founded a colony, on to Buenaventura, where was established a still earlier Mission, while behind and around us and them rise a succession of jagged peaks, that make of our own hardly-won height, a pigmy in comparison.  We look down into fruit orchards, into acres of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:pampasgrass whose snowy plumes are here cultivated for the market, we trace the shining rails of what seems from this altitude a toy railway in its course along the beach for thirty miles ere it is lost between mountain walls in its five hour's search for Los Angeles.  And along its narrow path, at frequent intervals, and often in most forbidding environments, are scattered sparse clusters of hamlets, whose occupants we fancy must often voice the song of Arne&acute;:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"What shall I see if I ever go<LB>Over yon mountains high?"</HI>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>RIVERSIDE</P>
140.sgm:<P>PASADENA has a twin, and her name is Riverside.  They are both "in verdure clad" right royally, and possess many attributes in common, resembling each other more closely perhaps in age, in rapid growth, and many minor characteristics than any other two cities of California.  Pasadena is much the larger place; and while conceding to it a superior situation, a beauty of adornment, and a home-like charm found nowhere else, we must grant to Riverside the palm of fruit-culture.  The acme of orange-fruitage is certainly attained here, both in extent and in quality.  The orchards are indeed "groves," the trees being so large and full as to completely overshadow and hide the residences, which we know exist somewhere in their green depths.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Riverside is situated in San Bernardino County, seven miles from Colton.  This county, by the way, is the largest in the United States.  Within its borders fifteen States the size of "little Rhody" could be placed without crowding.  The Santa <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Water is never allowed at the immediate base of an orange tree.  Furrows are ploughed five or six feet from the trunk of each tree, and two or three feet apart, making perhaps three furrows between each row of trees, these furrows all connecting with each other throughout the grove, for miles in length, so that when the water is admitted from the outer surrounding channel, as it is once in thirty days during the summer, it flows gently round in little rills, where it can be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Lemons, olives, apricots, and pomegranates are also extensively grown, and raisin culture is an important feature of Riverside industry, a quarter of a million dollars accruing last year from this product alone, which is of a quality to compete most favorably with foreign importations.  The White Muscat grape is cultivated for this purpose, and if the printer renders the word Mascot, the mistake would not be a bad one, for such it has proved to many a lucky owner.  The vines are planted about three feet apart, giving 660 vines to the acre, they are trimmed back to the dry stump each fall, and require comparatively little care.  After the grapes are picked they are spread, while still in the field, in so-called sweat-boxes, though they do not really sweat.  The moisture of the grape permeates the mass, softening the stems, and after two or three days they are sorted into three different grades of excellence, dried, winnowed, and packed; and most interesting is it to watch one or two hundred girls, with deft fingers arranging the layers in boxes ready for shipment.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Riverside is some seven miles long and two or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The show-card of Riverside is of course Magnolia Avenue, the finest drive it is claimed in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Yet a few miles away, overlooking this valley, rise the San Bernardino mountains which mark the boundary line between fertility and sterility.  Janus-like they stand, looking down on one side upon all this verdure and wonderful productiveness, on the other side upon 23,000 square miles of desert waste stretching eastward and northward in alkaline plains, sulphur deposits, and arid barren sands.</P>
140.sgm:<P>"Lo, these are parts of His ways; but the thunder of His power, who can understand?  He setteth an end to darkness, and searcheth out all perfection."</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>SAN DIEGO</P>
140.sgm:<P>THE bay of San Diego, which forms one of the finest natural harbors in the world, was first discovered by Don Sebastian Viscaino, Nov. 10, 1602.  He surveyed its waters two days later, which date happened to be the 260th anniversary of the death of San Diego, St. James de Alcala.  The great explorer therefore christened his newly-found prize with the name of this patron saint, a choice approved and adopted by the Mission established here sixty years later, the earliest of the eighteen Missions founded in California, and the only one to accept a nomenclature already provided.  Built in 1769, it was destroyed by an unexpected attack from the Indians in 1775; rebuilt in 1776, its only foe thereafter was the gentler but no less relentless destroyer--Time.  It lies to-day a crumbling ruin, its roof fallen in, its arches open to the sky, its bells (which were cast in Spain) removed to the old village, six miles distant, where they hang suspended from a cross-beam, in the open air.</P>
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140.sgm:<P>This Old Town, as it is called, the original San Diego, four miles north of the present city, is a most interesting place to visit, as being the site of the first white settlement in California, and one of the oldest in the Republic.  It bears an impress of age and decay which is quite pathetic.  A modern Indian school is fostered here, there is a store or two, and a motor car-runs through its one street twice a day, creating a little ripple in the prevailing stagnation, but otherwise it is filled with ruins of old adobe huts, of roofless jagged walls slowly dropping to pieces, as the numerous gophers burrow beneath them, or the harmless lizards dart in and out of each sunny crevice.  One feels a veritable Rip Van Winkle in Old Town.  Some of these lowly dwellings are still occupied, their doorways screened by smilax, or a dense thatching of the California morning glory, whose large sky-blue blossoms climb in luxuriant masses to the ridge-pole, their white centres gleaming like myriad stars.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Overlooking the village, on Presidio Hill, is the half-obliterated embankment which marks the outline of Fort Stockton, a relic of stormier days.  And a still more interesting link of modern reminiscence is the long low building fronting on the <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
140.sgm: designated by Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson as the one in which Ramona was married.  It was in Old Town that the gifted authoress heard the sad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The modern city of San Diego is regularly laid out with broad avenues, suitably numbered and lettered, and very level, excepting on its northern boundary where Florence Hill rises somewhat abruptly, crowned with fine residences.  Its stores have an Eastern look, and the prices of goods are very reasonable.  Its people are pleasant and affable, and many are of New England birth.  The chief natural charm of San Diego is undoubtably its equable climate, its uniform spring-like temperature, in summer or in winter; added to this, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>And one attempts the description of this exceptionable seaside-resort most reluctantly, for it must be seen and felt to be thoroughly appreciated.  With a temperature that allows fruits of tropical and temperate zones to ripen side by side, with a bay and an ocean on either hand, its beach one of the finest in the world, its surf magnificent, and with a radiant sunlit atmosphere that no pen can ever portray, or brush transmit, what wonder that this location was chosen for that Aladdin's palace--the Hotel del Coronado, the largest on the globe.  It is a unique structure, with an architectural style of its own, stretching itself easily and gracefully over seven acres of ground, enclosing thus a courtyard where rare flowers bloom beneath the dashing spray of fountains, and palms shade the walks that lead thither from the drawing and music rooms, from rotunda and many private dining-rooms that border this garden.  When at evening electric lights shed their glamour o'er the scene, touching the verdure with such livid brilliancy, when choice music adds its charm to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Many delightful trips can be enjoyed from San Diego, one to Lakeside, a mountainous district in the Cajone canon, another to Ensenada, Mexico, by steamer, or, the Mexican border can also be reached by a twenty-mile ride in an open motor-car along the Bay to National City (a stirring place which still shows many evidences of a mushroom growth), through its suburbs, where olives are extensively cultivated, and from which diverges the road to Sweetwater Dam, the city's reservoir, thence across a desolate country given over to cacti of various kinds and grease-wood bushes, whose oily roots are sought for fuel, to Tia Juana where one can visit the Government building and be officially stamped, or drive to the monument marking the boundary line between California and Mexico.  Smoking seems <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:a necessary assistance to respiration with the average Mexican, and driving or lounging, his chief occupation.  We saw no drivers however who irreverently tried to show Almighty God how to make a horse, for both manes and tails remained in the pristine beauty and usefulness for which their Creator designed them.  The swarthy citizen returns our morning salutation with a Frenchy " <HI REND="italics">ne comprends pas</HI>
140.sgm:<P>But one of the most charming spots to visit in the vicinity of San Diego, and one which the public has heard far too little about is La Jolla (pronounced <HI REND="italics">La Holya</HI>
140.sgm:, and signifying The Hole), on the Pacific coast north of the city.  The route thither lies through Old Town, where we view again the mouldering embers of a life above whose grave no <HI REND="italics">resurgam</HI>
140.sgm: will ever be written, we see the two lofty date palms planted by the <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
140.sgm: over 100 years ago, their 370 olive trees of the same age being also in good bearing condition, and, turning westward reach the coast at Pacific <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The precipitous clay cliffs at this point are not only serpentine in outline, affording shelter to numerous bays and inlets, but they are cut by the action of the waves into caves, grottos and arches in which the surf holds high carnival, though at low tide the visitor can pass under fantastic natural bridges into these weird rocky caverns.  Far grander however is it to sit on some high ledge above the tumult when the breakers are at their height, and watch them assail our fortress with deafening roar.  Sometimes two rollers from opposite directions will strive to enter at once the cave beneath us, reverberating through the rocky chambers with an explosion like artillery, then after a moment's space, the spray and foam are thrown back into the outer air and high above our heads, transfixed there for a brief instant by a beautiful rainbow's arch, as if the sea-nymph whose home the rude waves had so roughly invaded, resentful of such intrusion, had tossed back a handful of her jewels after the retreating foe.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Indeed, color is everywhere dominant at La Jolla.  Bright red and crimson mosses are washed up on the sand; the shells, even the minutest, are of brilliant tints, the water while very clear is in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Returning from a day spent at this delightful spot, we reach San Diego just as the sun is sinking behind Point Loma, whose white lighthouse is clearly outlined against the crimson background, a brilliancy which touches the myriad windows of the Coronado with flame, and is reflected in the placid waters of the bay, when, suspended above the horizon, in mirage, (a phenomenon common to this luminous locality), appears a three-masted ship with every sail set, being towed by an energetic tug into some shoreless harbor of the upper air.</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>EN ROUTE</P>
140.sgm:<P>AFTER every enjoyable trip through southern California, one naturally returns again and again to peerless Pasadena, which like a sweet-voiced siren woos and attracts us, potently and irresistibly.  Certainly no enchantress owns more willing captives, for Pasadena seems lovelier than ever since the recent showers have clothed her hills and lawns with richest verdure, and fringed her orange boughs with tassels of lightest emerald green.  The old walks and drives offer fresh delights, while new ones still invite us.  We visit the garden of Mrs. Dr. Carr, a lady well known as a botanist, who has collected in her extensive grounds a specimen of almost every tree, shrub, or flower known to temperate or tropical climes.  On her lawn stands a large camphor tree, a cedar of Lebanon, (worthy to have been chosen by Solomon's builders), an Oregon cedar from the Columbia river valley, a red-wood, a variety of pines, palms, bananas with ripening bunches of fruit and curious blossoms suspended therefrom, while in another corner are persimmon trees <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Pasadena has also, at present, an added attraction.  The Raymond is open and its first winter occupants have arrived.  The eminence on which the hotel so grandly stands, and the sloping sides of this charming height have received the last touch of adornment which cultivated taste and ingenuity could devise.  Masses of color form effective contrasts everywhere, while beyond the garden beds, springing up from the lawn, are oleanders, double daturas and, azaleas willing to blossom out of doors as well as under glass roofs, interspersed with slender evergreens which cast dark slanting shadows over the <HI REND="italics">alfalfa</HI>
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140.sgm:<P>But the warm afternoon's glow flooded the hill when we ascended to the open portals of this famous house, pausing as we went to admire the magnificent roses, the heliotrope trees so lavish of their purple bloom as to veil therewith their leaves, stopping often to wonder over some strange plant or new flower, turning even when the broad veranda is reached to gaze with glistening eyes upon the rare beauty of the more distant landscape, until half-reluctantly we seek the hitherto coveted pleasure of entering this charming place.  And of course when once within the spacious portals the first thing we behold is the genial presence of Mr. Merrill, with "Crawford's" so plainly written all over his rotund personality.  How natural he looks!  And so strong is the power of association that instantly that part of us which is not anchored is whisked away to that grand old Notch among the White Hills, around which cluster so many pleasant memories.  How desolate it must be to-day, swept by chilling blasts, with deep snows drifting about the closed doors and shutters and pleasant paths.  Do those lovely cascades leap and splash and lash themselves into foam when no human eye beholds, no heart responds to their wild beauty?  Do those mountain brooks ripple and purl and chatter in never-ending play, or has the Frost-king laid his icy fingers upon their breasts and stilled their merry frolic?</P>
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140.sgm:<P>But the strains of other music, the fragrance of calla lilies grouped in vases near, recall us to a sunnier land as we are led from the rotunda into the reception room, thence through the ladies' billiard parlor and reading room into the long drawing room where the usual orchestral concert, given each afternoon and evening, is in progress.  The musicians are grouped about the grand piano, about which rests a large pyramid of chrysanthemums; ladies sit around the room with their embroideries and fancy work, gentlemen drop their newspapers to toy with their glasses and listen to the choice programme, while the warm June (we mean December) sunshine casts long slanting beams through this beautiful room.  Across the corridor is the spacious ball-room, with its little stage and proscenium arch for the dramatically inclined.  This room is frescoed with very bold design in natural tints of brake ferns, palms, and cannas, which lend a most effective adornment to the place.  Natural flowers fill every table, nook and vase, in tasteful combinations.  They are placed as an appetizing feature upon every table in the dining-room, where the silver and dainty napery form a most effective background for floral display, as indeed they prove for the strawberries and cream served in mid-winter at the Raymond with the matutinal meal.</P>
140.sgm:<P>If winter were one long playtime hour, how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The route from Los Angeles to San Francisco runs through a sparsely settled, unpopulous but very picturesque region.  The character of the scenery may be inferred from the fact that the railway pierces some thirty tunnels, so grudgingly do the mountain spurs relinquish the right of way.  The passage through the longest of these tunnels, at San Fernando, requires nearly as much time as does our own Hoosac, though not quite two miles long, as for some reason, (perhaps from the shelving character of the rock hereabouts), the utmost care and the slowest pace of our iron steed is enforced.  In direct contrast to these rocky walls which hem us in so closely, we next traverse the western corner of the great Mojave desert, a level <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>We could look up, up until the stars seemed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>But the Loop?  Well, it was longer than we expected, being some three or four miles in circumference, therefore the curve was very gradual.  The loop is necessary because the grade of two adjacent defiles is of such different elevation, that the only way to pass from one to the other is by this little detour, the train in returning crossing its own track by a tunnel underneath the road-bed just passed over.</P>
140.sgm:<P>From this point onward we found one of the roughest bits of railway travel we ever experienced.  We had to keep awake and <HI REND="italics">hold on</HI>
140.sgm: to remain in our berths.  Precipitation into the aisle seemed momentarily imminent.  Perhaps we missed the vestibule cars to which we have of late been accustomed, which reduces the friction of travel to a minimum.  But we were not left without other Raymond provision for our comfort, even though travelling alone.  Long ago in that Boston <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Soon after daybreak, as we leave Lathrop, (this town bearing the maiden name of the wife of ex-Gov. and Senator Leland Stanford), we cross the San Joaquin river, the first river we have seen in California that has not been bottom side up, the sandy river-bed alone visible.  The land is level as a prairie and beautifully verdant.  Woods are occasionally seen which give a home feature to the landscape, although the growth is chiefly live-oak and eucalyptus.  Green hills arise on the horizon as we near our destination, double-peaked Mount Diablo claims our admiration, a portion of San Francisco bay is skirted, and soon we alight, not in the metropolis as we had a right to expect, but in Oakland, whence we embark in a commodious ferry-boat and finish our journey by water.  Could anything be more incongruous?  To approach San Francisco from Boston by ploughing the blue waters of the bay and landing at the city's waterfront, exactly as if we came from Japan!  Is this not sailing under false pretences?  In vain we are told that San Francisco is a peninsula, that the bay runs around it so completely that approach to it by land is impossible.  We are still <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO</P>
140.sgm:<P>SO magnificent a harbor as San Francisco Bay, one in which the combined navies of the world might easily find commodious anchorage, demanded as a natural sequence that a populous and cosmopolitan city should be built upon its shores.  The fact that the site chosen for the city was a succession of hills and ridges proved no insurmountable obstacle.  We had heard that San Francisco was built upon one hundred hills.  We have not counted them, but do not believe the number overestimated.  And <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
140.sgm: hills!  The usual comparison "steep as the roof of a house" does only partial justice to their acute incline.  Nothing could climb some of them it would seem but a cat or a squirrel. and yet up their successive and thickly settled terraces mount steadily and speedily the cable cars with which the city is completely honeycombed in every direction, naught but the tops of their roofs being visible to the observer at the foot of the hill.  And, reaching the summit, the cars pitch almost perpendicularly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:downward as a fly descends the walls of a room, or as a ship dips into the trough of a heavy sea, only to mount a higher and steeper hill beyond, continuing this see-sawing,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Now we go up, up, up-y;<LB>And now we go down, down, down-y,"</HI>
140.sgm:<LB>style of locomotion for miles all over the city.  Exaggeration here is an impossibility, for it is all so utterly incredible, even while we gaze.  To quote from a Santa Barbara stage driver: "What's the use of lying about this country, when the truth is more than any one can believe?"</P>
140.sgm:<P>And on these precipitous heights and the approaches leading thereto stand magnificent palaces, residences of the <HI REND="italics">elite</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Many of these hills have been leveled to fill up as many valleys, swamps and ravines,  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:(so masterfully does the mind of man triumph over all obstacles), and the business portion of the city is therefore broad and level, with plenty of room in its marts of trade, in its wide avenues and on its pavements for everybody, at the busiest hour.  We have seen no blockades, no crowding, no pushing or jostling, and, although <HI REND="italics">this</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The richness of the city and the lavish display of its wealth cannot fail to impress the visitor.  Such wonderful shop-windows, the like of which Boston, even at her holiday season, never dreamed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>And of Chinatown--that ulcer gnawing at the city's heart--this deponent speaketh not.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The trip to the Cliff House and its attendant attractions is a deservedly popular one.  The hotel occupies a rocky promontory on the coast outside the Golden Gate, upon which and the Fort that guards this open portal we look down as we wind our tortuous course about the bluffs.  The heights above the Cliff House are occupied by the private grounds of Mr. Adolph Sutro, and are thrown freely open for the public to enjoy.  A distinguishing feature of this extensive garden and park is the abundance of statuary with which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Returning to the city, a visit can be paid <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
140.sgm: to Golden Gate Park, and enclosure of over a thousand acres, which only a few years ago was an utterly barren sand bank, but has now been magically transformed into a paradise.  Its trees are so thickly planted that at times one seems in an impenetrable forest, the winding drives and paths lead the eye such a short distance before reaching the vanishing point.  The landscape gardening, the ornamental beds in quaint designs have also this advantage, that they are made for the whole year and not for a brief summer's day.  The extensive conservatories (for which the valuable collection of the late James Lick furnished <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The Presidio, a military reservation of 1500 acres, occupies a lovely spot on the northern outskirts of San Francisco, just within the Golden Gate, and on the margin of the bay.  The fortified island of Alcatraz is here a near neighbor, and some invalid members of its garrison were spending, on the occasion of our visit, a comfortable convalescence in the Presidio hospital.  The officers' homes were exceedingly pleasant, being surrounded by lawns and gardens, and a little park whose serpentine paths were outlined with cannon balls.  The quarters assigned to the horses of the cavalry and artillery were most comfortable, and the private soldier and guardian of our peace seemed to have no duty on hand more arduous than a game of base-ball.</P>
140.sgm:<P>The Spanis <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
140.sgm: who, in California's early days so industriously and zealously planted their Missions at every point whose occupancy seemed of importance in the success of their purpose to christianize the land and to awe the native tribes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The Mission Dolores of San Francisco however (built in 1776), was not so far removed from the bay as it now seems, since so much land has been reclaimed from the sea by man's device and necessity, in fact, in a recent excavation for a cellar on Montgomery street, quite in the business heart of the city, the hulk of a sloop was found which had originally sunk at its moorings at the dock.  A visit to the old Spanish quarter, with its relics of early settlement, offers vivid contrast to the lofty edifices of more modern sections.  The sanctuary itself is the smallest we have seen of its kind and very quaint in its exterior.  It is of considerable length though low in height, and its facade, of greyish plaster is very narrow with two short pillars on either side, and in niches in the pediment above the entrance are hung three small bells.  Its roof is of the semi-cylindrical tiling, the floor of earth and the whole structure presents a very singular and foreign appearance.  Adjoining it is an ancient burial ground where some of the earlier <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Back of this old settlement rise the mission peaks from whose heights a new idea of the city's vast extent can be obtained.  Near at hand a few adobe walls still stand; from thence the human tide swells on and stretches far and wide until its highest crest is reached on Nob Hill, where rise the palaces of the Floods, the Crockers, Stanfords and others to whom life has proved a financial success.  One can almost see how the city grew and crystallized into its present form, which is still but a prophecy of its future greatness.</P>
140.sgm:<P>As an easy stepping stone from the Spanish <HI REND="italics">regime</HI>
140.sgm: to the days of the Argonauts, the forty-niners, one naturally turns aside to visit the beautiful building erected by the Society of Pioneers, and its relic-hall, where are collected not alone Indian and natural curiosities peculiar to California, but trophies from the entire world.  Occupying a prominent place is the portrait of John W. Marshall, who on Jan. 19, 1848, first discovered gold in California, at Sutter's Mill, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>OAKLAND</P>
140.sgm:<P>SIX miles from San Francisco, as the sea-gull flies, across the pleasant waters of the bay, stands the beautiful city of Oakland, with Alameda and Berkeley on either side.  Oakland has been called the city of residences (or in slang parlance, Frisco's bedroom), and it wears the title appropriately.  It has a diurnal population of about 65,000, and while possessing a thriving little business centre of its own, its wide level streets are chiefly occupied by beautiful villas and homes.  The gardens which surround them remind us at this winter season of Pasadena taking a nap, and an opossum kind of nap too, a partial rest with one eye open, for Nature never sleeps in this wondrous land.  Everywhere rose bushes are bristling with buds that await only a few more days of sunshine to expand, magnolias promise even earlier unfoldment, and the callas are already in their prime; indeed Oakland seems preeminently their chosen home, for every yard idsplays its abundant share of these snowy, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:mammoth flowers.  And we note here such variety of trees from the native live-oak, (whose abundance christened the city), the locust and cottonwood, to the ornate, feathery-leaved acacia, in its many subdivisions, the mustard, fig, cypress, and numberless varieties of palms.  We counted fifteen new specimens of trees and shrubs which we had never seen before, in one short walk, and were obliged to remain in ignorance as to their proper classification, for the resident, to the manor born, never knows, and doesn't even know that he does not know.  Repeatedly we have asked the rightful owner and proprietor of a garden the name of a prominent flowering shrub, and then watched his changes of expression from surprise at the query to amazement and chagrin at the discovery that he cannot give you the desired information, a frank confession of his ignorance, and resolve that he will soon ascertain, but--he never will.  The Californian type of mind is not of an inquiring nature.  In its font of ideas there are few interrogation points.  It is so much easier to take things for granted.  We recently discovered a new and beautiful tree with dark, rich, glossy foliage, springing up from the sidewalk, so we took our stand beneath it, Casabianca-like, with a Spartan resolve that, come one, come all, this tree should flee from its firm base as soon as we, until we discovered its name, and there we stood, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The social atmosphere of Oakland is genial, quiet, restful and receptive to the advanced thought of the day.  For this and many other reasons the traveller is induced to cast anchor in this calm haven and taste the rare pleasure of a long sojourn in this lovely place, indeed a life-sentence could be delightfully served out, here.  The climate, while not so mild in winter as southern resorts, knows no sultry weather in mid-summer.  Its sky is often blue and serene when a small hurricane is blowing through the streets of the larger city across the bay.  There is a beautiful lake in the eastern part of Oakland surrounded by handsome villas, and in every direction there are the most enticing walks and drives, one of especial charm leading out to Piedmont, situated as its name implies, on the foot-hills of the Contra Costa range.  A more magnificent view than the one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>And as we gaze, thought reverts to two departures which these calm waters have recently witnessed.  In the early hours of a smoky morning as we sat reading in the cabin of a ferry, a sudden shriek from our whistle, followed by a succession of piercing toots brought us to our feet to see what disaster was pending, when behold, close at hand lay the Japan steamer, Oceanic, with a tug at her side receiving on board a small piece of woman-hood which then sped away for the Oakland mole, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The other young woman, who with a different kind of bravery stepped on board the Australia at high noon, bound for the Sandwich Islands, goes to return no more.  The brick walls of San Francisco as they vanished from her gaze, comprised the last large city which Sister Rose Gertrude (Miss Fowler) will probably ever see, as her self-imposed exile among the lepers is for life.</P>
140.sgm:<P>A cloud of smoke which is seldom lifted hangs above San Francisco, but tree-embowered, garden-fringed, flower-crowned Oakland invites the admiring eye to linger long and tenderly upon all her verdant beauty, her broad level streets and beautiful homes.  We heartily voice the apostrophe of that strange genius, poet, and large-hearted man, Joaquin Miller, who from his almond-grove on a contiguous height looks down upon this fair city and craves no other retreat:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Thou Rose-land!  Oak-land, thou mine own!<LB>Thou Sun-land!  Leaf-land!  Land of seas<LB>Wide crescented in walls of stone!<LB>Thy lion's mane is to the breeze!<LB>Thy tawny, sun-lit lion steeps<LB>Leap forward as the lion leaps!</HI>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">Be this my home till some fair star,<LB>Stoops earthward and shall beckon me!<LB>For surely Godland lies not far<LB>From these Greek heights and this great sea.<LB>My friend, my lover, trend this way;<LB>Not far along lies Arcady."</HI>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>THE RAINY SEASON</P>
140.sgm:<P>WE have heard that the difference between the wet and the dry season in California is that in summer it never rains, but sometimes does, while in winter it is expected to rain, but usually does not.  In Southern California we found it the prevalent custom of the elements to rain at night and clear off brightly each morning, but this particular rainy season has discounted the memory of the oldest inhabitant, and broken California's record for 30 years.  We are glad to have seen it, and to know what "a hard winter" is like, in this locality.  We have been amused when reference has been made here to the tough weather for it is nothing more than we are accustomed to, the year round, in New England.  There, we never enjoy week after week, month succeeding month of perpetual unclouded sunshine, as it is the rule to expect in this golden land. Consequently, when a series of showers follow one another here, or two or three rainy days occur in one week, the wet weather is beyond precedent.  But the rain is never frozen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>In higher altitudes of this broad state, where the rain has been frozen, in the mountain passes and gorges of the Sierra, where snow and ice have held potent sway, the winter that is now passing will long be remembered.  For seventeen days we had no communication with the Eastern states.  Water in <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
140.sgm:<P>And now the winter, or the rainy season is considered past.  The voice of the spring is already heard, the hills that surround San Francisco and Oakland are assuming the most delicate tints of emerald green.  Daily, as we watch them, we see this living tide creep higher and higher up the slopes, and dip down into the numberless dimples and dales of the verdant range, reflecting the light at such different angles, holding also such wealth of shade that the effect is that of a huge chameleon.  Wild flowers begin to appear abundantly.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The winter has afforded us in this neighborhood two new years' celebrations, one arranged and decreed by old Father Thomas and the other almanac makers, which was observed in regular Fourth of July fashion, with fish-horns and bells and parties of young people going from house to house and singing the night away under friendly windows; the other (decided by the new moon) occurred a fortnight later, in Chinatown, with a great popping of fire-crackers and explosive bombs, with decorations and an unearthly din, called by courtesy music, with much feasting and social <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Since that festive date, our great and glorious United States government has shown its valor and prowess by deliberately strangling the life out of one half-witted little Chinaman, too foolish to understand the nature of his crime, or the justice (?) of his sentence, his only remark on hearing the verdict being "Me go back Chinee, all samee."  Following the execution, scores of little newsboys at an age which should exemplify the innocence of childhood, were employed to shout through the streets every detail of the revolting spectacle, which brutal and degrading recital sows in susceptible hearts the seeds of a harvest of crime which this country will inevitably some day reap.  <HI REND="italics">No</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The first excursion party to register at the Palace Hotel from Pasadena, recently arrived and report a charming winter at The Raymond, where everything is done for the amusement and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>These newly-arrived friends gave fragrant proof that the orange and lemon groves of Pasadena are now in blossom.  The buds of the lemon are quite mauve in tint, although the open flower is as snowy white as its more popular sister.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Everywhere in California at all seasons, the Eastern visitor notes with surprise the abundance of <HI REND="italics">time</HI>
140.sgm: which the resident has on his hands.  How plainly we recall the nervous tension, pressure, and strain of that Boston atmosphere, the constant endeavor to crowd a few more duties into an already over-full day, in this easy-going land where nothing and nobody ever hurries, where even the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The same air of elegant leisure characterizes the management here of the postal department.  King Wanamaker's business requires no haste in this country.  A letter recently mailed in San Francisco to a friend three or four streets away, was delivered after an interval of two days and nights.  Mail seems to be regarded with supreme indifference by the resident, who would accept the receipt of an important letter to-morrow, as complacently as to-day.  In two southern cities in this State where papers and pamphlets have accumulated beyond the convenience of the carriers, they (the papers, not the carriers) have been deliberately burned in open bonfire, or dumped into the bay, a disregard for private preference, or the importance of current literature, which the transient tourist takes unkindly.</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>SONOMA COUNTY</P>
140.sgm:<P>IT is less in the large cities, where specimens of every nation, clime and tongue, with all conceivable amalgamations compose their cosmopolitan element, than in the outlying districts, the fertile valleys, or old mining sections, that typal California can best be studied.  The next county north of San Francisco, comprising the Russian river and other valleys, is a vast garden in its productiveness, while it abounds in grand and picturesque scenery.  It is a great fruit-bearing region, and its chief industries are the canning of fruits and the manufacture of wines.</P>
140.sgm:<P>To visit this valley we take a little steamer at her dock in San Francisco and sail up the bay along the city's water front, past cannon-bristling Alcatraz, in sight of the Presidio, crossing the roadway to the Gate through which the bland wind blows fiercely and the rough waves rock our boat like a cradle, still on by the little bay village of Saucelito, a veritable Downer's Landing for picnickers and yachtsmen, though unlike the latter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The first stopping-place of note is San Rafael, the Nahant for Frisco's wealthy merchants.  It is a pretty place, with its fine residences almost hidden by tall trees, and its large and handsome Hotel Rafael.  From this point the ascent of Mount Tamalpais can be made, an imposing summit which rears its head 2000 feet above the bay and commands a wide-extended view of land and ocean, of cities, towns and sister mountain heights.  From this point, after the eclipse of four tunnels of considerable length, we emerge into the verdant Russian river valley of Sonoma county, and skirt its graperies, now trimmed back to the stump though soon to become fields of luxuriant foliage, blossom and fruit, we pass almond orchards in fullest pink and white bloom, wild oak groves whose branches are hung with long festoons of Southern moss, hill-sides covered with a thick growth of the evergreen mazanita and madrona trees, while back of these rise the higher coast range and the Napa mountains.</P>
140.sgm:<P>At Petaluma, so many homes are surrounded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>We do not pass through Sonoma, where a U.S. garrison was maintained until 1851, and at which place the Bear Flag was raised.  On the occasion of a recent Fourth of July celebration, the original flag was taken from its glass-case in the Pioneers' hall in San Francisco, was carried to Sonoma, where attached to a piece of the old pole it was once more flung to the breeze.  One imagines that the old grizzly, so crudely represented on the banner must wonder what has become of all his companions, once so common in this region, during his long Rip Van Winkle nap.  The stars and stripes were first hoisted by Gen. Fremont at Monterey, July 7th 1846, from which date the commercial history of the state begins.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Santa Rosa, which holds the county seat, is the prettiest town in this vicinity.  It claims a population of 10,000, and has an interesting legend connected with its christening.  Soon after the founding of the Mission of San Rafael in 1847, Friar Amorosa started forth in search of natives <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Healdsburg, the next place of importance, a sleepy little town, is situated at the fork of Russian river and Dry Creek, a tributary whose turbulent flow at this season belies its name.  There is here a pretty wooded eminence, named Fitch mountain for one of the early settlers, and more imposing heights beyond skirt the horizon.  The extinct volcano of Mt. St. Helena, 4,850 feet high, though situated in Napa county is a prominent landmark, and bears evidence by the ermined mantle which now drapes its shoulders that its once fiery heart is cold and still, yet lava deposits in various sections of the valley give silent witness of former activity.  On its summit also can be found sea-shells and other tokens of a submarine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Another height is known as Geyser Peak, at whose base are found the only geysers in California.  To visit these we continue our journey northward to Cloverdale, whence a long stage-drive over a mountain road too narrow for the passage of but one vehicle, except in rare instances, (at which points we naturally share the solicitude of the old lady who wanted to turn out and wait until a team came by), conveys us to our destination.  Whether this terminus can be called Paradise or Purgatory, we have not determined.  Grandeur and beauty of scenery above and round about us; below a wild mountain gorge whose trail can be followed a mile or more, or as far as the soles of one's boots can endure the unwonted temperature of mother earth, whose usually placid breast throbs, and trembles, mutters, moans and puffs in tumultuous unrest.  We have never seen her in this mood before.  Her gnomes are in rebellion, or are holding high carnival with elfish imps from some nether world.  But their frolic is less boisterous than it was some years ago, their natural ebullition having been quelled by the visiting vandals who have dropped stones in these natural craters and tunnels, and thus diverted the upheaval into other channels.</P>
140.sgm:<P>In some of these geysers, large stones and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>There is also in Sonoma county a petrified forest, the trees lying in two tiers over a tract a mile in extent, the largest single tree measuring 68 feet in length by 11 feet in diameter.  When found, they were covered with volcanic ashes and atoms of silica.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Large stories are told in this region of the days when agricultural interests were sacrificed to those of mining, and the prosy occupation of farming found few adherents, when gold dust became the most plentiful commodity and three dollars worth of it was often paid for a watermelon, seven dollars for an onion (!) and a similar price for a quart of potatoes.  To this day vegetables are far scarcer than fruit.</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>THE LICK OBSERVATORY</P>
140.sgm:<P>WHY San Jose&acute; should be known pre-eminently as the Garden City in this land of gardens, or why it should wear that distinctive title was not quite clear to our minds until we remembered it received this christening before Pasadena was born, and also until we saw this productive Santa Clara valley where, it is estimated, there are more fruit orchards than in any other county of equal area in the republic.  It is also a great centre for strawberries, and for vegetables of all kinds; indeed, the land for miles around is one vast garden.</P>
140.sgm:<P>The road leading thither from San Francisco runs through a fertile territory now in its fairest dress, the cultivated fields climbing far up the hillsides, the young grain making delicate shades of contrast in the chromatic scale of green, while near at hand our course passes through extensive olive and almond groves.  Cherry orchards also abound, their leaves so lusty in size and thickness, the trees so altered in manner of growth by early <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The city of San Jose&acute; (pronounced San Hosay) has numerous attractions, and is regarded as the Yankee town of the West, so many Eastern people having settled here.  It was founded Nov. 29, 1777, by 15 people, and was once for a short time, the capital of the state.  It is now an educational centre, the State Normal School occupying here 27 acres of lawn and flowers, with roses in fullest bloom climbing its brick walls.  Located here also are the Santa Clara (Catholic) College, the Convent of Notre Dame, and the University of the Pacific.  Business also thrives and it is proposed eventually to cut a canal through to this point, to advance the commercial interests of this fruitful region by giving increased outlet for its valuable products.  We heard the usual story of one potato that was dug in this vicinity, which made further excavation unnecessary for the cellar of the house erected on its site, and as California houses very rarely possess a cellar of any description, we gave ready credence to the flattering tale.  As a rule, both potatoes and apples are here inferior to those grown on Eastern farms.</P>
140.sgm:<P>The visitor to San Jose&acute; receives the welcome of an expected guest at the Hotel Vendome which though smaller than other noted hostelries of this state, is perhaps thereby the more cheery and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>There are delightful drives in this vicinity, one to the Willows, a resort named for the trees which here abound in a beauty and luxuriance of foliage, a richnes of emerald tint, an airy grace in the carriage of their flowing draperies which we have never seen them wear before.  There is also the suburb of Santa Clara with its ancient mission, reached by a shady drive through the Alameda, which is Spanish for a road bordered by tall trees.</P>
140.sgm:<P>But the chief attraction of San Jose&acute; is of course Mount Hamilton with the Lick Observatory upon its summit, and a visit thither is an experience unique and delightful beyond description, a pleasure never thereafter to be forgotten.</P>
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140.sgm:<P>Money is an excellent commodity, if its possessor owns with it a generous heart and an unselfish desire to benefit humanity.  In various sections of this neighborhood we have met evidences of James Lick's benevolence, but his greatest gift, the crowning act of his life was the bequest of $700,000 for this valuable contribution to modern science.  In his early life, while accumulating in So.  America the nucleus of his large fortune, he became associated with a Spanish priest who in their out-door life, deeply interested the prospective millionaire in the study of astronomy, and then and there was formed in the mind of this reticent young man, the resolve to provide hitherto unparalleled advantages for the advancement of this noble science.  It may be that his most eccentric economy had this noble end in view, as indeed that early disappointment, in his only <HI REND="italics">affaire du c&oelig;ur</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Mount Hamilton is situated between two ridges of the Coast range, in a locality and at an altitude most favorable for observation and study of the heavens.  To mount to its summit and descend in one day and night, usually conveys to the tourist an idea of excessive fatigue, and people are often slaves to their expectations.  They saturate their minds with thoughts of weariness, place anxious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Starting at noon from San Jose&acute; and reaching its suburbs, we gradually wind about the lowest foot-hills and along their slopes, rising at times about six feet in one hundred until this beautiful Santa Clara valley is unrolled beneath us like a rare mosaic of brilliant color and graceful outline.  The fields are thickly dotted with flowers, the California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>While still enjoying this beautiful valley view, a sudden turn in our winding course hides it from sight and we see it no more.  Neither is that white dome on the far distant summit which is our goal, any longer visible.  A city set on a hill <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
140.sgm: be hid by more adjacent peaks, and for a long hour we are hemmed in by gorges and wooded heights that afford a constant variety of wild and romantic scenery until Smith's Creek is reached, where a little mountain inn provides refreshment for the hungry traveller.  From this point the Observatory, which seems to withdraw itself farther and farther away as we pursue, is in an almost perpendicular position above us, and still seven miles away, but easily and gracefully that marvelous road curves round and round across the face <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>We drove up to the door of this imposing temple of science just before seven, in time to see a glorious sunset, and to catch its reflection from San Francisco Bay, miles to the north of us.  Still farther northward on a clear winter's morning, Mt. Shasta is visible, as well as other kingdoms of this world and the glory of them.  The visitor to the Observatory can always be sure of a hospitable welcome and painstaking effort for his entertainment, even though the kind hosts must find it wearisome to answer the same queries and repeat so often the same explanations and information.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Saturday evening is set apart each week as the only opportunity for the public to gaze through the great 36-inch telescope, hitherto the largest in the world, though we hear its bigger brother is even now in the skillful hands of the Messrs. Clark.  To have reception night happen on the first quarter of the moon, (the most favorable time for observation) and under a perfectly clear sky was our rare good fortune.  Passing from the vestibule, we entered the large dome with a feeling of awe, as if we stood in the presence of royalty, for towering far above us was the monster <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Wonderful was it to see the mammoth dome revolve with such ease under the direction of the presiding genii of the place, who with skillful touch also directed the telescope toward our satellite which held that evening high court in heaven.  And how did it look?  Well, very like its photograph, with much the unnatural whiteness and flowery appearance of plaster-of-paris, honeycombed as it is with volcanic craters.  We, of course, improved this auspicious occasion to look intently for the man in the moon, but it must have been his night out, for we failed to discover him.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Leaving this lunar audience chamber we descended to the crypt below, where is the machinery which under hydraulic pressure furnishes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>We next visited the smaller dome where the 12-inch telescope was focused upon the planet Saturn, and the kind and patient professor gave a running commentary on all the marvels which we saw.  Most beautiful of all the heavenly bodies, especially serene fair Saturn seemed to-night with six of her attendant moons visible, and her golden rings casting deep shadows upon the planet, from the light of that same sun which also outlined the mountain peaks upon the moon's surface, and which we had seen disappear so recently from our horizon, although we caught its last luminous beams from the roof of this observatory, the highest point we have ever reached.  The building is constructed with double walls of brick to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Other wonderful instruments here abound.  There are comet-seeker, earthquake-recorders, the transit instrument, which furnishes that uncertain quantity--time, for the whole Pacific coast, as far east as Ogden; there is the delicate Meridian Circle instrument for determining the latitude and longitude of stars, and many more.  We listened with breathless interest to our young chaperon's delineation of these marvels, we nodded (we hope) in all the right places, and dragons shall never draw from us the confession whether or not our intelligent comprehension of their intricate mechanism is perfect and complete.  Photography is also a feature here, and the long corridors are lined with most interesting solar and planetary views.</P>
140.sgm:<P>When at last our visit to this enchanting place was ended and we stood on the broad door-stone ready for departure, can we ever forget the scene outspread before us?  Above, the wide expanse of star-lit heavens, though from our lofty perch it seemed less above us than a part of us.  At the horizon shy Mercury, so rarely seen by city residents, shone with ruddy glow accompanied by the paler lustre of our well-known Venus.  Opposite, majestic Orion kept up his eternal chase after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>But how that road did hold out, to be sure!  Leaving the summit at 8.30, stopping only once to change horses, alighting here for a brief midnight stroll, (and for a most congenial interview with the wayside dog) we beheld as we neared the valley a new scene of beauty, a sea of fog beneath us, which under the magical touch of moonlight, seemed a frozen sea of ice, the dark outlines of the foot-hills serving as capes and promontories around which the white billows had congealed.  We could readily imagine that our charioteer had transported us to the North pole, (we thought we discerned one end of it from the lofty perch we had just left) but as we descended, fair Luna slowly drew a misty veil across her face, it thickened until we saw her no more, or the electric lights on the towers of San Jose&acute;.  But terra firma was reached, and at 1 A.M. we entered the Vendome, where a delicious and dainty lunch awaited us, a refreshing sleep, after which we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>SANTA CRUZ--MONTEREY</P>
140.sgm:<P>THE narrow-gauge route, leading from San Jose&acute; to the city of the Holy Cross, runs through the Santa Cruz mountains, indeed at times through the bowels of the earth, long tunnels being a feature of this road, but for the major portion of the journey, the scenery is both grand and picturesque.  We look skyward for the tops of the loftiest peaks, gaze down into wild gorges many feet below us, send quick glances into the can&tilde;ons which we hurry by, and gain many charming perspectives both ahead and behind our winding path.  The mountain slopes are at this time literally purple with the plentiful wild lilac which makes soft contrast with the fresh ferns and dark pines towering above them.  From the valleys, narrow paths lead up to our level, made by the feet of burros who carry on their backs and sides huge loads of wood from the clearings below to the waiting freight cars.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Five miles this side of Santa Cruz the road skirts the edge of the Big Tree grove, and here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The redwood tree is found from the Oregon line to the Santa Cruz mountains.  North of these boundaries is the Oregon cedar, south of this point, the Monterey cypress is indigenous.  The redwood's manner of growth is to send up a multitude of surrounding shoots which eventually unite with the parent stem whose great size is thus due to conglomeration.  All stages of this process can be observed in a stroll through the twenty or more acres of this natural temple.  The largest single tree, known as Giant, is some twenty feet in diameter, its height is 300 feet, and its circumference is paced by thirty-seven masculine strides.  In one of the Three Sisters, standing side by side, a stove is placed for the use of pick-nickers to this resort, but a majority of the trees are not hollow, being still it would seem in the freshness of youth.  Alone and apart from his fellows towers Daniel Webster, a single tree, but less interesting than the groups of trees which spring from one base.  The finest of these bears <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The curving line of the Bay of Monterey is nearly duplicated by the mountain range 20 miles inland, and in this pleasant sunny strip of territory, Santa Cruz is situated.  It is a quiet sea-coast town, with pretty residences and gardens, and attractive shops which display shells, delicate mosses, and other treasures of the sea.  There are two miles of beautiful beach within the city limits, and in the cliffs beyond, the first sculptor, Neptune has carved grottoes and natural bridges, which richly reward a drive thither, although this natural curiosity does not equal the beauty of La Jolla on the San Diego shore.  Congress has been recently petitioned to provide a breakwater for this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The lethargic little town of Monterey is the quaintest place we have visited since Santa Fe&acute;.  It is one of the towns where we have to rouse ourselves occasionally to make sure we are not dreaming.  The locality was first "discovered" in 1602, when Vizcaino landed here and took possession of the country in the name of Philip III. of Spain, naming it in honor of the Viceroy of Mexico, Gaspar de Zuniga, Count of Monterey, who was projector of this northern cruise.  Over 160 years later, still prior to our birth as a nation, the hitherto unbroken silence of this primitive region was stirred by another inscription on history's page, the founding of the old Carmel Mission by Father Serra, president of the band of Franciscan missionaries.  The mills of the gods grind slow, but with unerring purpose toward the advancement of the race and the survival of the fittest.  So Monterey at last witnessed the Franciscan downfall, and eventually the first establishment in California of U.S. authority, Gen. Fremont flinging to the breeze in July, 1846, from a flag-staff still preserved, that emblem of progress and freedom, the stars and stripes.  Many of Monterey's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Two miles beyond Monterey, upon a promontory of the bay, stands pine-shaded Pacific Grove, originally selected as the annual camp-ground of the Methodist-Episcopal conference, but so delightful did the site prove that a town of two square miles has since sprung up with hotels, schools, and a thriving population, greatly increased in summer by the anniversary exercises of various societies of all denominations.</P>
140.sgm:<P>But the tourist is not drawn to this locality by any of these attractions.  He comes chiefly and solely to visit the Hotel del Monte, in comparison with which everything else sinks into insignificance.  One approaches the description of this charming place with reluctance, realizing his utter inability to do it justice, the meagre inadequacy of the most unabridged vocabulary of adjectives to portary its loveliness.  However free a rein be given to the reporter's superlative pen, exaggeration is still impossible.  This world in itself known as Del Monte, is situated a mile and a quarter this side of Monterey in a natural forest of pines and live-oaks, this environment suggesting its name, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:the word <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Setting forth to explore these wondrous grounds, whose outer boundaries we may not hope to fathom, a wrong direction can hardly be taken, nor is there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:possibility for its attractions to become monotonous.  There is everywhere such variety of charm, such novelty, brilliancy and beauty.  The diversity of floral display has no limit.  There are ribbon beds and borders where every separate plant has its hair parted exactly in the middle, and not an eyelash is suffered to grow astray.  There are more tangled plats where brilliant effects are produced by masses of contrasting colors.  There are places set apart exclusively for rose culture, others for camelia japonicas; in one bed we counted fifty different varieties of calceolaria, each one handsome enough to exhaust a dozen exclamation points, and there is one large section devoted entirely to the culture of cacti of all kinds, many of them displaying the oddest most oriental-looking blossoms.  All of these 126 acres of cultivated garden are heightened in charm by intervening stretches of beautiful green lawn, by lofty trees wreathed with ivy garlands, and from whose branches green moss hangs pendant, while masses of flowering myrtle surround their base.  A maze is planted in the ground, formed of tall cypress hedges, from which if the explorer ventures too far he is liable to call lustily for assistance in emerging.  Another feature is a large lake, the "Laguna del Rey" (Lake of the King) with a pleasant drive about it, bordered all the way by shrubs and the silvery plumes of pampas-grass; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Space fails to enumerate all the attractions of this sylvan retreat, but among them, and one of the proper things to do is to take the Seventeen-mile Drive, a road that includes a succession of beautiful views, both inland and of the ocean, also a visit to Monterey, Pacific Grove and the Carmel Mission.  Inspiring scenes all, but on returning to the winding, shady avenues of the Del Monte we experience a fresh delight which is almost a surprise that the place is so surpassingly lovely.  Can anything else compare with it?  Does anything like it exist on this planet?  Can even Paradise be fairer?  If so, we hope the angel of Life, whom men call Death, will not tarry too long.</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>TO THE YO SEMITE</P>
140.sgm:<P>TO spend a season in California and not visit the valley of the Yo Semite is to witness the play of Hamlet with the omission of its title-role.  To go or not to go?  That was the question.  It was an easy matter to decide, the trip seemed an easy thing to accomplish; the very affable agent of the Berenda route thither, at his office in San Francisco, makes of the journey by his glowing rhetoric an enjoyable pastime, he smooths every difficulty from the tourist's path, allows him to select the seat he prefers in the photographed stage-coach with its three spans of prancing steeds.  He paints the scenery with masterly touch, portrays the unprecedented grandeur of the waterfalls after this winter of unusual severity, unblushingly declares the existence of new cataracts, and other remarkable features never known before in the memory of man, with other fictions of his fertile imagination which leaves our previous hesitancy and doubt as to the advisibility of so early a visit to the mountains without a leg to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The start is made from San Francisco at sunset on the Los Angeles train which however drops us at midnight on a side track at Berenda.  The cessation of motion, with the noise and jerks of disconnecting the car arouses the traveller who after waiting an hour or two for something else to happen, lapses into uneasy slumber only to be again disturbed by the arrival of the engine which, with the customary snorting and explosive puffs, attaches itself to take us to Raymond, by which recent growth of the railroad, the stage route has been cheated of twenty miles.</P>
140.sgm:<P>From this point the tourist sacrifices all further personal choice of his comfort, or hours of rest and action.  He is no longer a free agent.  Fore-ordination and pre-destination absolute are the rules of his being, the only authority recognized in this locality being the supreme omnipotence of the Yo Semite Stage and Turnpike Company.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Breakfast over, the <HI REND="italics">four</HI>
140.sgm: -horse stage drives up to receive its load and we eye it askance.  We have heard from friends who had made prior visits to the Valley, of the comfortable stages used on this route, of their canopied tops that serve as much needed screen from the rays of California's sun.  Earlier specimens of the genus stage may have been comfortable; we occupied one of a newer style.  The canopy was there, in fact we made caput-al acquaintance with it at certain points in our ride quite as often as we tested the springs (?) of the seat.  The stage had four seats, the backseat upholstered with enamelled-cloth all the way down; the middle seat with its minimum amount of motion; the front seat, easier than the rear but with a restricted range of view; and the much coveted seat with the driver, hot and sunny but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>But we load into this commodious lumber-wagon and set forth by a narrow circuitous mountain road, in an atmosphere radiant and redolent with purity, brilliancy and all sweet odors.  The breath of the hills is blown to us, the blossoms of the valley waft upward their fragrance.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>On and still on we wind, soon gaining glimpses of snow-capped mountains so far away on the horizon that we cannot conceive our course includes those distant heights, that any route not threaded by steam could include so long a trip, but we learn that those misty summits comprise only the first "divide"; the first night of our journey being spent beyond those snowy peaks.  At our second change of horses, we pass a quartz mill where the mountain has been tunnelled for the precious ore and the fair face of nature has been frequently scarred by the prospector's spade as he for a time follows a false lead.  We pass the lively Fresno river and also an artificial log-flume built on tall trellises for 55 miles to convey timber from the wooded hills down to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Our afternoon's task is to climb by slow and painful degrees to the summit of Chow-chilla peak, near which as we reach it, a wonderful view is obtained of the San Joaquin valley, (the light sedge grass giving it the appearance of a vast desert), of the Coast range beyond, and of one little dark spot, so far away as to be almost invisible, which is pointed out as the Raymond we left--when?  Can it be only <HI REND="italics">this</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The summit is reached joyfully, for now we begin the descent into the valley where our day's journey will end.  But such a descent!  The stage it seems is behind time, the driver's reputation must be preserved even at the expense of the necks or limbs of his passengers, and so the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:horses, breathless from their long hard pull, are given free rein, are not checked even at the murderous water-bars, or at the rough places where the wheels wallow in the soft mud to their hubs and the coach oscillates correspondingly.  What matters it that the weary, worn, and sore human freight are thrown violently from side to side, or against the roof, until their necks are well-nigh dislocated, what if their breath is beaten from their bodies by severe and incessant jouncing, until the only thought of the hour is the promise of salvation to them who <HI REND="italics">endure unto the end</HI>
140.sgm:, with also the firm resolution if life is spared to reach home (which now seems doubtful) that we will advise everbody to postpone their visit to the Yo Semite until they get to heaven and can look down.  We recall the remark of a dear lady who declared that she was never so near her Maker as when in the Valley.  We certainly never expect to be so near Purgatory again as when on our journey thither.  Other friends had assured us that the surrounding scenery as we rode along would make us forget every discomfort.  The scenery is doubtless grand hereabouts, the monarchs of this forest among the noblest specimens we have ever seen.  We remember gaining fugitive glimpses, as we came down to the seat occasionally, of several trees reeling and swaying across our spasmodic vision like tipsy revellers, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The sleep of the righteous visits every pillow at Wawona, a baptism of health and strength like-wise descends as if from the mountains that surround on every side this cup-like vale, the alchemy of this rare elixir sweetens the sorely-tried disposition of the disgusted traveller and (as a natural consequence) restores to freshness the storm-tossed frame.  What luxury it would be to lie in the early dew-fragrant dawn and let the restfulness and calm soak in to one's consciousness but--we are bought with a price and our purchasers are <HI REND="italics">pro tem</HI>
140.sgm:. our masters.  We must therefore be awakened at five, breakfast at six, and with dread and trembling mount another coach for the drive thence into the Valley where we are due at 2 P.M.  Will it, at last, we wonder compensate us for all this misery?  We have ceased to ask regarding distances, for miles mean nothing here.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>But the ride of to-day is a great improvement upon that of yesterday.  Our driver is careful and compassionate, the road is in better condition and the scenery is much grander and less monotonous.  Following for a time the south fork of the Merced, we begin to wind about and ascend the last barrier which lies between us and our goal, reaching a height of over 6000 feet, gaining along the way, from Lookout and other points, wild grand views of deep gorges far, far below us through which the winding river cuts its way between the mountains.  Around us is an almost unbroken forest of sugar pine, and yellow pine with its alligator-leather trunk, while every dead branch and twig is swathed with moss of living green, so kindly does our mother Nature heal every wound, and transform death into beautiful life.  Light growths are few, though it is still early for flowers and ferns, but we see an occasional specimen of the wonderful crimson snow-plant.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>At our second change of horses about noon, we take the opportunity to run down the road ahead of the coach, for a restful change, we inspect the watering trough, the road, the trees which here allow such restricted range of view, when, speeding on lest the fresh horses overtake us too soon, suddenly, as if the planet had dropped from beneath our feet, the trees disappeared on our right, the sky rolled itself backward like a scroll to give space to a vast army of peaks and domes and mountains of granite, a double row, the verdant gorge between, and we realized with a gasp that was almost pain, that we were looking upon the marvellous Valley.  We stood on Inspiration Point.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Majestic, solemn, awe-some in the massive sweep of its gigantic contours, in the wonderful stillness, the immovable calm that broods above it, as if here it was that God rested "on the seventh day from all that He had created and made, the heavens and all the host of them."  There are some moments, some experiences that come to us which are untranslatable in any human speech, and this was one.  Stirred to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>How long we might have stood there had not the coach arrived to pick us up, we cannot say.  The driver kindly dissected the grand spectacle for us, letting us down easily to ordinary levels of thought and feeling, and explained that the massive buttress on the left was El Capitan; on our right were the Three Graces, in the farthest distance, the North, and South or Half-Dome, as if our stunned and bewildered consciousness could take cognizance of compass-points; over there was Cloud's Rest, so-called because clouds often hover upon it when other spots in the Valley are clear.  The white ribbon let down several hundred feet from one of these heights is we learn Bridal Veil Fall, only to be enjoyed from a nearer view where its misty drapery floats airily and gracefully as the wayward zephyrs frolic with its gossamer meshes, and especially when the afternoon sun-beams, flooding it with their prismatic dyes, make of it a vision of loveliness too fair for earth.  A smaller fall high up on the mountain's face is disrespectfully known as "The Widow's Tear" because, being supplied by melting snows, it dries up in six <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>What a drive it was!  What a revelation of our own insignificance, of our utter incapacity to take in such immensity with the faintest approach to due appreciation, or the folly of attempting to adapt our little two-foot rule of measurement to this gigantic scale.  For instance, the driver pauses to point out a minute green twig just above a heap of talus, on the side of El Capitan.  After careful inspection we at last discern something which might serve as a doll's Christmas <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>As it is, the first mental impression and one not lifted until the second day, is that of overwhelming sadness.  The burden of isolation oppresses us.  Heaven itself is not so far away as are we from every mundane interest or association.  If these stern gray ledges were not <HI REND="italics">quite</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Ah verily, what is man that Thou art mindful of Him, or the son of man that Thou visitest him with such revelation of Thy matchless glory, Thy Creative Majesty?</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>IN THE VALLEY</P>
140.sgm:<P>THE location of the pretty Stoneman House, built by the State, is well chosen.  Almost the entire length of the Valley must be threaded to reach it, and when there, the visitor is surrounded by most attractive points of interest.  On the left, Glacier point rises 7000 feet; on the right are the Royal Arches and Washington Tower, while the grand Yo Semite fall makes its three gigantic leaps apparently but a stone's throw distant, although if one wishes to make nearer acquaintance with its varied phases of beauty and decides to stroll down the road until he comes opposite to this mighty cataract, he will contineu to stroll for some time and approach so nearer to its base than when it proved such an irresistible magnet from his seat on the hotel veranda.  A beautiful view can be obtained from the rear of Barnard's hotel, and at this point the majestic roar, with the bomb-like explosions peculiar to this fall are constantly heard.  It is a fascination of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>On the hither side of the Yo Semite is the Indian Can&tilde;on up whose steep sides and rocky de&acute;bris the Yo Semite tribe escaped when pursued by the Mariposa recruits, in May 1851, on the occasion of the first entrance to the valley of any white man.  The depth of this defile, its rough and jagged features are wonderfully revealed when the morning sun manages to smuggle a few of his gilded beams into the wild gorge.  In winter the Valley's allowance of sunlight is but two hours long.  The name Yo Semite, as is well known, signifies a great grizzly bear, not from any resemblance which the gorge bears to this animal, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Speaking of sunrises reminds every Valley visitor at once of the marvellous experience at Mirror lake.  It is doubtful if anywhere on the planet there is a lovelier spot than this crystal sheet of liquid purity, at the base of Mt. Watkins especially in the early dawn when it is still, as the Indians called it, a "sleeping water," and not a ripple has as yet disturbed its dreamless rest.  It is a visible expression of <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The peace at the heart of Nature,<LB>The light that is not of day."</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Clear-cut as a cameo, the mighty peaks penetrate these watery depths, 4000 to 6000 feet below us, their scars and clefts repeating themselves with such startling vividness that effects not noticeable through the medium of the air are plainly discerned through the limpid wave.  Some discolorations on a crag a mile perhaps above us are a train of cars and engine in that illusive nether world.  A clothes-line with the washing all hung <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:out so early in the morning, is the most realistic thing imaginable.  Entranced we stand on the margin of this crystal floor watching the marvelous picture, noting its soft contrasts of light and shade play about those gigantic cliffs beneath that wondrous distant sky; we gaze longingly as an exiled Peri might stand outside the gates of Paradise, and yearn in vain to enter.  But now a wonderful scene opens.  A faint flush glorifies the world at our feet, a golden dart pierces its azure calm, another of roseate hue thrills and warms the scene, gilding each massive outline with a luminous halo, and now quicker and faster the radiant beams shoot over the slopes of yon granite mountain in the nadir realm, until the first curve of the great luminary is seen, higher and higher it mounts till the sun has gloriously risen and dimmed that enchanted world whose denizens we were.  Again and again, as we seek a new position on the mirror's edge, is the scene repeated, while we resolutely turn the back of our head toward the zenith where one generally looks for solar displays, and gaze down, down thousands of feet, it would seem, into the visionary and unreal.  How like it is to our mortal experience, where the reflection is all that our dull eyes discern, where we turn constantly away from the real and the true, the life that is spirit, for the glamour of its shadow, which must ever fade from our perception, as the Sun of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The trips which can be made in the Valley are legion, and a week, at least should be devoted to them, though in this connection it might be well to advise the tourist to "put money in his purse" for to quote from a witty commentator, "Man brought nothing into this world, and if he stays long in the Yo Semite Valley, it is certain he will carry nothing out."  All that the hotels and Stage Co. do not get, the wily livery man will.  The trails to Glacier Point, Eagle Peak and Upper Yo Semite are at the date of our early visit not yet open (the emphatic ten-days-old statement of the affable agent in San Francisco to the contrary, notwithstanding), but the most satisfactory and beautiful of all the excursions (we speak necessarily from limited experience) is that to Vernal and Nevada falls.</P>
140.sgm:<P>The trail from Tis-sa-ack bridge along Grizzly Peak, though hewn out of solid rock is almost wide enough for a carriage, and yet our well-trained steed prefers a footing so close to the edge that we seem to hang far over the steep precipice, but we do not demur.  We remember that he knows far more about his business than we ever shall, and that if we are born to be hung or drowned we cannot possibly suffer harm on this winding stair.  The Mohammedan fatalism would really be an excellent travelling companion, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:rather that <HI REND="italics">perfect</HI>
140.sgm: trust which casteth out <HI REND="italics">every</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Returning, we again mount and thread a zig-zag trail backward, forward, and upward, this equestrian procession forming three of four tiers across the face of the mountain, each row being far above the next lower, when at last reaching the highest point, in a twinkling that takes one's breath away, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Beautiful beyond suggestion, grandest, most fascinating object in all the Valley, we could sit for hours and watch its changeful flow.  The whole Merced river here falls over a mountain wall 617 feet high, although the water seems less to fall than to resolve itself into froth and foam, and float <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:out upon the air, to wave silvery banners here and there and then pierce them with flying rockets, so rarely repeating the same effects that the observer appreciates the appropriateness of the Indian title which means "meandering," though this is the last word one would expect to find in a savage vocabulary.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Now shining and twining,<LB>And pouring and roaring,<LB>And glittering and frittering,<LB>And gathering and feathering,<LB>And whitening and brightening,<LB>And quivering and shivering,<LB>And dashing and flashing and splashing and clashing,<LB>And so never ending, but always descending,<LB>Sounds and motions forever and ever are blending,<LB>All at once and all o'er, with a mighty uproar,<LB>And this way the water comes down at Lodore."</HI>
140.sgm:<P>A house has sprung up here (Snow's), we hardly know how, unless it grew through a new law of evolution peculiar to this land of wonders.  It was not yet open, so we spread our lunch upon an adjacent rock and quaffed nectar from the clouds, feasting our eyes meanwhile (the truest refreshment) on that lovely veil of silver sheen, suspended across the mountain's breast, on whose enchanting grace we hope sometime again to look.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Morning in the Yo Semite Valley!  What a rare experience to return from the realm of spirit and take up again our physical instrument amid such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:sublimity of environment, to renew once more our conscious connection with the material world within the hidden fastnesses of these eternal hills!  What a solemn hour it should prove, what new baptism it must impart, to strengthen the soul for all sterner duties which await us!  <HI REND="italics">Is</HI>
140.sgm: the hour such?  Alas, no; repose is an unknown quantity in this region.  Even the border land of dream-life is invaded by the hurrying and skurrying of departing guests, and when at last our time arrives, the porter's prompt reveille upon our door puts a speedy end to contemplation, or devotion.  At no stage of the Yo Semite trip is an early departure less imperative than for the drive from the Stoneman House to Wawona, consequently with strange masculine inconsistency, the hour fixed by the "Turnpike" Medes and Persians is the earliest of them all.  At quarter of six, with valises packed, and breakfast bolted, our four-horse team (Star and Keno, Girl and Sullivan, who lacks as yet the diamond belt of his godfather) stand pawing the ground at the door.  We mount and hurry down the Valley, striving to impress indelibly upon our memories its every feature, we pass from its portals, climb again to the summit, jounce down the other side, and reach Wawona at one.  The mid-day repast is immediately served and without a moment's opportunity even for customary ablutions, we are loaded into an open vehicle, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>These <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
140.sgm: are a slightly different species from the redwood of the Santa Cruz region, which are classified as the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia sempervirens</HI>
140.sgm:.  Their generic name was chosen to perpetuate the memory of Sequoyah, a Cherokee chieftain of remarkably advanced mind, he having invented an alphabet of eighty-six characters that his tribe might have a written language, the system being still in use.  Our national heroes are duly remembered in the christening of the grove, with some of our scientists and poets.  One tree known as the Telescope, allows a range of vision 125 feet upwards, its hollow trunk having been burned out, but sap enough still flows through the shell to support foliage.  Many of the trees are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The succeeding night is spent at Wawona, a place with attractions of its own, the beautiful Chil-noo-al-na falls being near by, with other pleasant mountain excursions.  The studio of Thomas Hill located here is an interesting place to visit, its gallery of art-treasures being freely open to all.  The return journey to Raymond held less of the terrors which beset our entrance to this mountain pass, for the road had been put in excellent order by the faithful efforts of the road-commissioners aided by the warm dry breath of old Sol.  But he was a little too ardent in his glances that afternoon.  The heat for many long hours was intolerable, we had a foretaste of the dust which smothers the tourist of a later date, and when at twilight the Raymond inn dawned upon our horizon, with some real Pullman cars awaiting us near by, the sentiment of the party could only vent itself in the devout doxology "Praise God from whom all blessings flow."</P>
140.sgm:<P>One of the most graceful things ever said of the Yo Semite was inscribed on the hotel register by James Vick, whose name is enshrined in the heart <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>This truly is the need of the hour.  The "marvellous valley" is too far away.  Candor compels us to confess (for we "cannot tell a lie") that the trip thither is the most inhuman experience in the world.  With a railway built even half way to its ponderous doors, the Can&tilde;on of the Great Grizzly Bear must long remain the Mecca of every traveler, the shrine at which all devotees of Nature will reverently bow.</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>HOMEWARD BOUND</P>
140.sgm:<P>WHAT a glorious journey it is to sweep across our American continent from the Pacific coast to Atlantic shores, to climb over two mighty mountain ranges, cross a wide desert, to skirt the borders of inland seas both salt and fresh, to be ferried over rapidly-coursing rivers by boat or bridge, to whiz along prairies that are granaries vast enough for a world's supply, to cross thus a galaxy of states and territories with a portion also of Her British Majesty's dominions, and to enjoy all this from the luxurious environment of a palace-car, where choice viands are served with clock-like regularity, --what a rich experience it is!  Can one ever realize the tremendous extent of this country, or its wonderful resources, its mineral and agricultural wealth until he views it thus from shore to shore?  And when to other comforts is added the Raymond espionage which means the absence of all care as to the detail of the long journey, when with a vigilance that neither slumbers nor sleeps the "ubiquitous Lyon" numbereth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>A possibly envious friend once said teasingly "no one who has any brains ever travels with the Raymonds", recognizing thus the freedom from anxious personal supervision which such excursionist enjoys.  Blessed then are the brainless ones, or those who having used their brains to good purpose have earned now the right to such reposeful recreation.  Brains do not lie fallow while travelling.  Plentiful opportunities occur for storing the mind with valuable information, every hour suggesting new thought, broadening the range of mental vision, which is all the clearer because not absorbed in petty cares concerning that which is least.</P>
140.sgm:<P>On a warm sunshiny afternoon near the close of May 1890, after a long and delightful sojourn in this fair Western land, we at last with great reluctance turn away from the Golden Gate and set our faces eastward.  The calm blue waters of the bay seem loth to ripple their last farewell, for through inlet and cove they merge into San Pablo bay and thence to Napa creek, where Vallejo is seen four miles away, opposite to Mare island, an important western naval station, a verdant spot, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>At this point we reach Port Costa and our course changes for before we are aware our entire train with one other and their two powerful engines are quietly transferred to the largest ferry-boat in the world--the Solano.  Of course every one is on deck at once, for who ever knew a Raymond tourist to remain in his own car one moment after it became stationary, although with equal alacrity he melts from sight like the dew in his obedient response to the first call "all aboard."  Some twenty minutes are consumed in crossing the Straits of Carquinez, and at Benicia we resume our long landward journey, until at dusk we reach California's capital--Sacramento--where our accommodating intinerary allows us a stop-over of a night and half-day.</P>
140.sgm:<P>In only eight instances in our Republic is the capital of a state its metropolis and the capital of California is not its most attractive city.  The portion devoted to residences is charming, and great attention is paid to floral adornment.  We have never seen magnolia trees in fuller wealth of bloom than they here display, and contrasting with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>The Capitol building sits grandly in its beautiful park and leaves nothing to be desired in its architecture or ornamentation.  Its senate-chamber and assembly hall contain full length portraits of California's governors, the corridors and stairways are adorned with paintings illustrating early scenes in the phenomenal history of the state, while in the rotunda on the first floor is seen that notable piece of statuary, Columbus before Isabella, these two figures of heroic size, together with the kneeling page of the Queen, being carved from one solid block of marble by Larkin G. Mead, and presented by D. G. Mills to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Art has in Sacramento another chosen home.  A valuable collection has been donated by Mrs. Charles B. Crocker, who also built in her own grounds the handsome building which holds these treasures of painting and sculpture.  The many rare gems which are here so attractively placed would require more time to properly appreciate and enjoy than we have at our command, but we still carry away many delightful remembrances to enrich future thought.  In the position of honor in the main hall, beneath a massive painting of Yo Semite, rests the tie of California laurel and four iron rails which formed with the golden spike the last connecting links in that narrow shining bridge which spans a continent, to whose completion the efforts of Mr. Crocker lent such valuable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:assistance.  It was at Promontory, near Ogden where the Central Pacific R.R. building east and the Union Pacific hastening westward finally met, May 10, 1869.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Where two Engines in our vision<LB>Once have met, without collision."<LB>"What was it, the Engines said<LB>Pilots touching--head to head,<LB>Facing on the single track<LB>Half a world behind each back?"<LB>"<HI REND="italics">What</HI>
140.sgm: it was the Engines said,<LB>Unreported and unread,<LB>Spoken slightly through the nose,<LB>With a whistle at the close,"</HI>
140.sgm:<P>only Bret Harte heard, and translated for our duller comprehension and certainly no recent date has chronicled an event of greater importance, of vaster moment to the nation.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Leaving Sacramento at noon and threading the orchards and vineyards that encompass her about, passing beyond this smiling valley toward the foot hills where we view many traces of hydraulic mining (a method now forbidden by law, lest the hills themselves be washed away, and the lowlands become unfertile, the rivers unnavigable), we commence with keen anticipation the ascent by daylight of the Sierra Nevada mountains, two strong engines with labored breath attempting the upward grade.</P>
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140.sgm:<P>If friends at home should try to mentally locate us now, probably the last point at which the wildest imagination could place us would be rounding Cape Horn; and yet this is the first experience we are called upon to enjoy.  On a high promontory of the first range we ascend, a narrow shelf has been pecked away from the rocky heart of the mountain (at first by men suspended by ropes from the summit), now daily used as the main highway of this large railway system, and exactly on the sharpest curve of the cape we pause for some minutes in mid-air to enjoy the wondrous scene unrolled beneath us.  Hundreds of feet below, a deep verdant gorge, through which the muddy American river winds like a tiny thread, wide and turbulent as it doubtless is, if true to its title, leading the eye by graceful twist and turn, out from these lofty confines to other chasms beyond.  Turning from this dizzy height, we have just time to press the wild azaleas which find room to grow on this sterile point, when we stop for orders at Blue Can&tilde;on.  And why "Blue"?  Is the river that rises here bluer than other mountain streams, albeit the waters of the little brook are so clear and pure that we delightedly fill our drinking cups at its brim and gather the spearmint which borders its edge, or is the name given because of this bluish afternoon haze that floods both sides of the can&tilde;on, our track here as in many other places <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>But just as we grow enthusiastic over these beautiful Sierra, rushing from side to side of the car in response to some neighbor's frantic appeal to "look," presto, change! and there comes a blank.  Darkness profound hems us in, and the fact dawns upon us that we are in a snow shed; and we leave it only to enter another, and another, tunnel alternating with snow shed for over forty miles of oblivion.  How tired we all grew as the hours wore on of the long eclipse, how aggravating to catch occasional glimpses, through cracks between the boards, of beautiful landscapes around us only to lose them before they were discerned.  How cold was the breath of those deep snow drifts, some of them the accumulation it would seem of a score of years, how pityingly we recalled the sufferings of those poor travellers imprisoned here during last winter's blockade, how we shouted with relief and joy when at last the radiant sun streamed in upon us, just after the lovely Donner Lake, of saddest history had been passed.  Soon after we reach Truckee, a rough little lumber town, where we are side-tracked, and after a ramble about the place, the inspection in its round-house of the giant rotary snow-plough which did such valiant service a few months ago (although but for those despised snow-sheds, the invention of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>SALT LAKE CITY</P>
140.sgm:<P>THE region between Truckee, the last town in California, and Reno, the first of note in Nevada is exceedingly picturesque.  The eastern spurs of the Sierra still surround us, the merry little river, with its cascades and whirlpools and wild current which almost mock our speed, is our constant companion.  Unlike most streams the Truckee is borne full grown as it flows only from the fresh water Lake Tahoe to the saline basin of Pyramid Lake, 97 miles distant, draining the one and supplying the other without altering the characteristics of either.  While still revelling in its boisterous beauty, feeling the spirit of its frolic, a white post beside the track marks our passage of the State Line, and California is now behind us, our pleasant experience within its borders but a reminiscence.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Fair golden state, farewell!  We turn our faces eastward and hasten away but we leave our hearts behind, oh gracious princess, to whom all wondrous gifts have been vouchsafed that thou in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>No greater contrast could be imagined than the scenery afforded by our first and second day's travel.  When Reno and its pink sand-verbenas are left behind, we enter upon the desert and traverse its level wastes through the entire day and night, although even here the monotony is relieved by many interesting features.  Snow-clad mountains are almost constantly in sight from a greater or less distance.  Frequently along our course what seems to be a little dust-eddy, a cyclone in miniature, reveals the existence of boiling springs and their steaming escape-valves.  At Humboldt, where we alight at noon, the arid soil <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>At Palisade, the last place of interest passed before nightfall, some very picturesque scenery is enjoyed, the precipitous rocks on either side being sprinkled with a yellowish moss which resembles copper veining.  At this point also a narrow-gauge road diverges to Eureka, where is located the richest gold mine in Nevada.  We awake next morning in sight of that strange phenomenon, America's Dead Sea, skirting its borders until we approach Ogden, the terminus of four important railway systems, a city whose beautiful situation we did not have time to inspect as we turn aside here to visit the Mormon Saint's Rest--Salt Lake City.</P>
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140.sgm:<P>Perhaps no point in our long journey is regarded with a more curious interest than is the capital of Utah.  Its strange history, its religion, built upon only nine commandments of the Decalogue, its long defiance of U.S. laws, with other unusual features increase one's natural desire to see this strange land.  In our first drive about the city it was easy to decide that its beauty had been over-rated.  We had heard of wide shaded streets with a gently purling river of pure water from the mountains, bordering every curb-stone.  We found a swiftly-flowing muddy current in one gutter only of many of the streets, we found wide thoroughfares, it is true, but they were untidy, rough and ill-kept, and the sidewalks were in no cleanlier condition.  The trees were almost wholly of the white locust species, which being now in full flower added a needed touch of grace and beauty to the city, which was also bathed in a clear radiant mountain atmosphere imparting a peculiar brilliancy to the sky.  A perpetual inspiration is the Wasatch range of snowy peaks, which overlook the city and whose altitude of 13,000 feet it is difficult to realize, being ourselves now nearly 5000 feet above the level of the sea.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Driving first to the Temple enclosure, we visit the Tabernacle, a plain, oblong structure that will seat 8,000, and has twenty double doors of exit.  After inspecting its interior, its large organ made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Within the high stone wall by which this Temple block is surrounded, stands also the Assembly Hall, a handsome structure, used for worship in winter, into which we Gentiles were not admitted, neither gained we entrance to the imposing granite Temple, begun twenty-five years ago and still <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>We drove through the main business street where is the Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institute and other stores, we turned aside into a pleasant avenue which leads to Prospect Hill where a fine view of the city and surrounding country can be obtained, we passed the tithing-house, the Gardo House, which is the Mormon White House, the present incumbent of the presidential office always residing there, we saw the Bee-Hive, the residence of some of Brigham Young's sons, the home where <HI REND="italics">several</HI>
140.sgm: of his widows reside, the small enclosure within the city limits devoted to the prophet's sepulture, and that of his wives, the line of accommodation being drawn at their numerous progeny.  One house was pointed out as belonging to a man with two wives and 38 children, whereupon our party began to estimate the number of shoes this patriarch would buy each spring and autumn, multiplied by the number of years of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>We passed under the Eagle Gate, saw Rose Cottage, the beautiful residence of an English Mormon widow, also the homes of several pensioned wives, as since the recent action of Congress, no Mormon is allowed to visit any save his first wife, under penalty of arrest.  Polygamy is now dead, the Endowment House is razed to the ground, property peculiar to their plural rites has been confiscated, but the sad and demoralized fruits of the long reign of error are still painfully apparent.  We have never seen such lack of intelligence in human faces, or countenances so utterly devoid of expression of any kind, as on the women and children of this Mormon kingdom.  That feminine snap of the eye and carriage of the head common to the woman who has a mind and will of her own and claims the right to its exercise, we did not once discover outside the ranks of their Eastern visitors.  We met no Mormon child who was capable of answering a question, though one whom we pleasantly accosted was introduced to our notice by an attendant as "Sadie Cannon, the <HI REND="italics">fourth</HI>
140.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we were treated to an excursion by rail to Salt Lake, 17 miles from the city, stopping at Garfield Beach where a handsome Pavilion has been erected in the water a short <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>It was with the greatest interest that we sought the Mormon Tabernacle on Sunday afternoon to attend its service, although (perhaps to our shame) the spirit of universal brotherhood sank as low in our soul's barometer as it did in Chinatown, albeit we resolutely looked only for that which was good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:and commendable, realizing that a spirit of criticism should find no place in any house devoted to praise and worship of the Infinite One.  The observance of the Sacrament is a feature of every service, bread and water being passed in silver cake-baskets and flagons from hand to hand, we likewise assisting, though the rite is not observed in silence, for as the deacons and their assistants pass through the vast audience, the delivery of the sermon still goes on.  The speakers alternate each Sabbath, an elder being chosen from the various districts in turn.  Prof. Talmadge whom it was our chance to hear, is a young and very smart man, but for his morbid religious bias.  He ranted a little, and even accused the U.S. government of arraigning itself against the <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Much of the discourse was lost, or overpowered by the superior lung capacity of hungry and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Salt Lake City at present is having a boom.  The Gentile immigration is very large, the streets are thronged, the city's unattractive hotels are crowded, and there is a spirit of prophecy in the air that Mormonism is on the wane, its record a memory of the past, and not a power of the future.</P>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>THE SCENIC ROUTE</P>
140.sgm:<P>REFRESHED by this break in our journey, glad to have had this opportunity, yet inwardly resolving never to visit Salt Lake City again, on Monday morning we gladly start onward, though we do not immediately leave Mormondom behind, for all through the valley of the river Jordan, (which strangely enough runs into this salt Dead Sea from the fresh Utah Lake, which corresponds in the devout minds of the Latter Day Saint to the Sea of Tiberius, making of this locality a veritable Zion intended for his occupancy), we pass through many Mormon settlements and see plentiful proof, not of miraculous divine intervention, but that clear pluck and faithful toil have coaxed these waste places to laugh into harvests and to blossom as the rose.  The Jordan is a muddy, unlovely stream, not so wide but that we could cast a stone to its farther bank.</P>
140.sgm:<P>We have entered upon the course of the Denver and Rio Grande R.R., known as the grandest scenic line in the world, and it wears these laurels <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>After leaving the valley of the Jordan, we follow Spanish Fork to a pass in the Wasatch range known as Soldier Summit, and soon approach the gateway to this gigantic land, a veritable Castle Gate, two massive buttressed pillars advancing from the cliffs to hold watch and ward before these sacred precincts, not exactly opposite each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:other though apparently so as we approach them, and our "special" train stops here to do them reverence.  We alight and gaze in wonder upon their geometrical proportions and rich coloring, these isolated heights seeming still more impressive as we leave them in the distance, for they appear to draw nearer to each other, after having so charily allowed us room to pass.  We now enter upon Castle Can&tilde;on, a marvellous region where are the Book Cliffs, so-called perhaps because the ridges of parti-colored rocks lie in even layers, like the successive leaves of a book.  But such wonderful fantastic shapes no book ever assumed.  Would we could read their ancient record, so boldly written in hieroglyphic cypher, for surely some Titan horde once occupied these lordly castles and kept watch for coming foe from these sightly towers.  How impregnable are their fortifications!  Note that palace in ruins, how grand its proportions, how extensive its surrounding walls!  <HI REND="italics">Resemblances</HI>
140.sgm: to such structures we have seen in rock formations many times before, but surely no semblance these.  They are too evidently the work of man, the citadels of a race of giants.  And the rich veining of color which is such a feature of this entire region, is here at its height, exciting constant outbursts of glorious surprise.  Later on, the cliffs which for several miles have towered near our window, recede some distance where we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>From Green River, which we leave at dark, we enter upon a barren uninteresting territory which we are glad to pass over during sleeping hours.  We awake on the Uncompahgre Plateau and after breakfast at Cimarron Creek we take the roofless observation-car to better enjoy one of the most soul-inspiring rides the world affords, a run of several miles through the Black Can&tilde;on of the Gunnison.  Who can describe this mighty gorge?  Our wildest conception of its solemn grandeur, its stern features, which the secluded light serves to heighten, is eclipsed by this massive reality.  Even our recent experience in the Yo Semite cannot dull the edge of our amazement and delight.  Far from it.  This sublime can&tilde;on cannot suffer by comparison with any other of Nature's masterpieces.  It is true the Yo Semite walls rise a thousand or two feet higher than these, but this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>While still in the depth of the Can&tilde;on, a peculiar obelisk arises on the farther side of the river bank which we recognize as the Currecanti Needle, and here we are allowed to alight, and gather vari-colored rocks for souvenirs, while our special artists (all of them) photograph the Needle, and other imposing features of these encircling walls.  As we move on, we gain fleeting glimpses of cascades that leap down the mountain sides, one of especial beauty bearing the name of Chipeta falls in honor of the wife of Ouray, a chieftain of the Ute <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>We reach Gunnison at noon, realizing for the first time that we are now in Colorado, an enchanted land, of which Joaquin Miller writes: "Colorado, rare Colorado!  Yonder she rests; her head of gold pillowed on the Rocky mountains, her feet in the brown grass, the boundless plains for a play-ground; she is set on a hill before the world and the air is very clear so that all may see her well."  We seek one of her highest pillows this afternoon.  Although quite surfeited with grandeur and would fain defer another feast, we now approach the main range of the Rockies and are to mount and cross the lofty summit known as Marshall Pass, so called because its former toll-man bore that name.  Our train is divided into two sections which then proceed to chase each other up one winding stair after another (by a grade 211 feet in a mile), often losing sight of each other in some of the sharp bewildering curves of the mountain's breast, but soon revealed by the black breath and ambitious snortings of our iron steeds, who with sonorous pantings and hollow groans sturdily push their way upward over still steeper grades, along deeper wilder precipices (a most exciting experience), making a dash through an occasional snowshed, until at last the Summit is reached and we look down upon other summits, or hob-nob with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>We pause at this altitude of over two miles above the sea, where some of our frisky ones engage in a snowballing match with the handsome brakeman, who easily whips the whole crowd, or drives them to the shelter of glass windows.  Others of the party remembering that people on mountain heights are frequently scant of breath, anticipating in advance the possibility of being themselves similarly affected, watching narrowly as they near the height, to see how they feel now, really affect the regularity of the heart's pulsation.  No organ responds more quickly to the slightest mental excitement and anxiety, on <HI REND="italics">any</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The descent of this grand mountain is very beautiful, so zig-zag in its course that two and three tiers of track are always visible, the severed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<P>Emerging from our last mountain pass, we see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>HOW WE SPENT MEMORIAL DAY</P>
140.sgm:<P>THE display of festooned bunting over the veranda of the Cliff House, in the early morning, was not a necessary reminder of the tender associations connected with the day, for already, thought had flown to a dear grassy mound far away which we would gladly have crowned with fairest flowers had such rite been essential to express the heart's true remembrance, but happily, neither time nor distance, nay, not death itself can separate soul from soul, or prove a barrier to interchange of loving faithful thought.</P>
140.sgm:<P>We had been treated to a mountain thunder shower the previous afternoon of several hours' duration with hail, and wind, and general blackness, save on Pike's Peak's hoary summit, where a dense snow storm raged.  This temporary confinement within doors had so abridged our hours for sightseeing that visits to several points of interest must be crowded into this charming day.  We first walked through the town and inspected its tempting little stores, where are displayed the wealth of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>At eight A.M. we start on our first drive in a three-seated carriage, as comfortable as any easy chair in a lady's parlor, taking the trail up through Ute Pass, this being the route used by the Ute tribe of Indians in going to and from their reservation.  A short distance after passing the Rainbow falls, our path leaves the road and begins to climb the steep height which rises on our right, a sharp incline which affords us, as we ascend, some beautiful mountain views, and makes us acquainted with two heathen deities, Gog and Magog, or with two pinnacles of rocks thus christened.  Before we are aware we have reached the mouth of the Grand Caverns, one of Manitou's notable "lions."</P>
140.sgm:<P>There is always an element of the weird and supernatural about a cave to creatures formed to live in the air and sunshine.  To the timid occurs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>Equipped with lanterns we follow our guide through Canopy Avenue to Alabaster and Stalactite Halls, our footing dry, the temperature warm and pleasant, the avenues wide with one exception, where the narrow tortuous corridor is named appropriately the Denver and Rio Grande, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>But the greatest wonder of the whole cave is its natural Organ.  The largest chamber is known as the Opera House, a lofty concert hall with two well defined galleries in its upper recesses which our lanterns dimly reveal, and somewhere in the darkness beyond, a torch and a voice discovers the presence of a man in the upper loft who calls our attention to a group of long, curving ribbon stalactites, on which has been discovered a musical scale, slightly flattened in its lower register, but clear in its upper notes, and truly remarkable in every way.  The organist, striking with two little sticks at different points upon the suspended <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>It is customary in connection with a visit to the Grand Caverns to walk over to the lovely Cave of the Winds, situated on the other side of the same height, but we postponed this pleasure that we might devote more time to the Garden of the Gods, three or four miles distant.  This wonderful spot is not happily named.  A garden implies culture; this large tract retains its own simple grandeur, untrammelled and unvexed by the hand of improvement.  It might once have served as Council Chamber of some primeval deities, whose ruined abbeys and cathedrals spires remain to excite our admiration.  The play-ground of tricksy fairies must have been close by, as these red sandstone exclamation points on the face of nature have assumed the most grotesque shapes, which space fails us to enumerate.  Even such steady going animals as bears and seals here indulge in a game of peek-a-boo!  The entrance to this strange territory is fitly called Mushroom Park, as the rocks standing here have the effrontery to take <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>A mile or more beyond this point is the beautiful residence and grounds of Gen. Palmer, the father of the Denver and Rio Grande R.R., where these strange formations also abound.  It is called Glen Eyrie because an eagle chose to build his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>The trip to Cheyenne Can&tilde;on and mountain, on whose summit was buried the form of Helen Hunt Jackson, usually consumes a whole day, as a road on the farther side of the mount winds nearly to its apex, but if only a half-day can be devoted to this drive, then a steep and almost impossible climb is necessary to reach the height.  Not deterred thereby, on returning from our morning excursion at twelve, we start again at one, for the peak which forms a prominent feature of the landscape for miles around.  Passing through Colorado City, the oldest town in the state, and its first capital, where an effort is now being made to locate the State Soldiers' Home, we diverge from Colorado Springs, whose lovely precincts, parks and broad shaded streets we enter later, and soon reach the woody pass which leads to the Cheyenne foot-trail, of the South Can&tilde;on.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Alighting here, three determined damsels of the persistent, resolute type (they were not grown in Salt Lake City) set forth in the face of a threatened shower to climb the rugged path.  The distance is called a mile and a half, but the Yo Semite scale of measurement is evidently used here.  For a long three-quarters of a mile the road is one which it is a luxury to tread, running beside <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>Leading up to this chasm which the Falls leap down, a narrow wooden stairway has been affixed to the side of the mountain's breast, directly over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>At last, after one of the steepest grades, we clamber over the mountain's brow and stand erect on its summit, whence a level winding path conducts us to the oblong pile of stones under which rests the dust of one unknown in mortal expression, but spiritually dear to all.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O soul of fire within a woman's clay!<LB>Lifting with slender hands a race's wrong,<LB>Whose mute appeal hushed all thine early song,<LB>And taught thy passionate heart the loftier way, --<LB>What shall thy place be in the realm of day?<LB>What disembodied world can hold thee long,<LB>Binding thy turbulent pulse with spell more strong?"</HI>
140.sgm:<P>A few faded garlands lay upon the cairn, to which we tenderly and reverently added, as our Memorial Day offering, a few wild roses and mulberry blossoms picked by the toilsome wayside.  But how sadly we noted the desecration by the autograph fiend of this sacred place.  Even upon the small pine tree in whose bark was cut the simple "H. H.", other insignificant initials crowd it too closely.  The memorial stones upon the grave are used to hold down the fluttering autographs and pencilled sentimentality of unknown visitors, while surmounting the pile, an unsightly worm-eaten slab of wood is placed to bear the inscription of an entire family.  Is there no reverence in the American mind, no idea of the eternal fitness of things?  If this prominence of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>The spot is beautiful, the view therefrom wonderfully grand.  We look <HI REND="italics">down</HI>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV</HEAD>
140.sgm:<P>THE HOME STRETCH</P>
140.sgm:<P>WE were to leave Manitou for Denver on the morrow, and as we sought our pillows after our over-full day and reviewed all that we had enjoyed in this delightful place, only one regret assailed us; the Cave of the Winds remained unvisited, as well as the charming little Williams' Can&tilde;on leading to it through serpentine walls of rock.  But might we not still accomplish the latter, although the hour of our departure was an early one, and the entrance to the Cave a mile and a half away?  Of course it would not be open, but we could at least see its location.  Therefore, after the refreshing oblivion which visits one in these mountain retreats, we shook off the fetters of Morpheus before the sun had left his bed, we emerged into a world not yet awake, and with keenest delight immediately lost ourselves in the winding curves, and ins and outs of this picturesque pass, the walls converging so closely in places that a carriage has barely room to pass, the peaks seeming almost to meet overhead.</P>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>Was ever before such morning walk enjoyed?  The shadows of the night had so recently lifted from these deep recesses that they seemed freshly created, the tinted pillars and cornices that stand out so boldly from these cavernous cliffs show a heightened color, a richer pink and cream and vermilion, from their fresh bath in mountain dew.  Even the air is azure-tinted, an atmosphere that does not wait to be inhaled, but seems to breathe itself into and through each pore and fibre of our being.  What an hour of rapture; what a constant study of form and color!  What excitement to thread just one more of the many curves in our road, to see what lies beyond it.</P>
140.sgm:<P>When a mile is passed we reach unexpectedly a little house on a bank above the road--any human habitation looking so incongruous in these wild surroundings--where it seems the guide to the Cave we sought keeps old bachelor's hall.  This gentleman had just arisen as we passed, and thinking we might wish to visit the natural wonder under his charge, and would be disappointed to find its barriers closed, quietly slipped his untasted breakfast into a basket and followed us with the kind offer, which went straight to our hearts, to open the cavern in advance of usual hours, for our especial benefit, although we learned he would reap no financial benefit thereby, his salary being assured in any case.  How many would thus have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>We chatted along this beautiful can&tilde;on for another half-mile when, a little to our dismay, we arrived opposite to the entrance of the Cave, but <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
140.sgm:<P>We found this Cave of the Winds a diamond edition, gilt-edged and illustrated, of all the caves it has been our fortune to examine, not that it is smaller than any other, but so choice and exquisite in its minute details.  Quaint little stairways lead from one elevation to another and crooked by-paths turn abruptly in an unexpected direction.  Its architecture is intricate and copyrighted.  We could not visit all of its thirty or more chambers, our time being necessarily so limited, but the excavation known as Dante's Inferno deserves especial mention for the little imps and satyrs of Satanic suggestion are as delicate as an ivory carving.  The vegetable garden near by is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>The motto on Denver's escutcheon should read "Thrift, thrift, Horatio!" for this spirit of business enterprise, of energetic push permeates the very air.  It is a wonderful city when one remembers it rapid growth, its present wealth and prosperity.  Yet nowhere is there any evidence of hasty formation, there is no sham veneering.  Great attention has been devoted to the building of substantial structures, Denver profiting perhaps by the lessons wide-spread conflagrations in sister cities have taught her.  Even the beautiful dwellings and villas are all of brick or stone, a wooden house of any description being difficult to find.  Denver's Court House and the Capitol, now in process of erection, are among the finest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>The second day of our stay in Denver is devoted to a trip to Silver Plume including a descent if desired into the mine, a dark, damp, drippy, disagreeable place where silver is not lying around loose as some had supposed, though veinings of the ore are shown.  Lunch is partaken at Georgetown, a pretty place not quite above the clouds, and the mountain scenery which surrounds it, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>This detour is our last, and for the first time we feel as if we had started for home.  We spend the entire next day crossing the broad verdant prairies of Nebraska, reaching Omaha at sunset and its sister city on the hither side of the Missouri--Council Bluffs--a few moments later.  Iowa is not skirted in darkness, for we chance to encounter a severe electric storm, which happened to be travelling in the same direction we were taking, and so kept us company the entire night, with incessant flashes, the roar of heaven's artillery, and the patter of descending torrents upon the car-roof.  The goblins of the air were all abroad in wildest mood that night.  We were glad to be a passenger rather than the engineer, whose exceeding vigilance and caution we could plainly sense as he <HI REND="italics">felt</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The sight of the broad bosom of the Father of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:Waters when the radiant morning dawned, moved our party to sing <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"One wide river,<LB>One more river to cross,"</HI>
140.sgm:<LB>and recalled the child's query why the <HI REND="italics">Father</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Will this marvel of the world seem disappointing to us, we wonder, do we remember it correctly, will it have shrunken in comparison with the grandeur we have recently witnessed?  Ah no!  Niagara is forever a fresh surprise, it is like nothing else but its own marvellous, stupendous self.  A recent storm has muddied the Falls and only the sharpest curve of the horse-shoe bend retains that shimmering, translucent, impossible green.  The river will work itself clear again in a day or two; meanwhile it gave new effects of lace fret-work and sparkling frost-like garniture over the contrasting foam-beaten brown.  The immense, incredible volume of water that pours over this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>Our last night <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>And now the "Home agains" and "Home, sweet homes" have all been sung, the good byes and friendly wishes have been exchanged, for dear old Boston is in sight and excitement reigns.  How unchanged it seems; how unconscious it looks of our long absence or the importance of our return.  We begrudge the customary pause at the draw-bridge, while we devour the familiar piers, the ships that are imprisoned here, we look over to other bridges that span this tidal Charles, and ride on towards the Fitchburg's wide open doors, pass under its octagonal grey towers, and like John Gilpin,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Nor stop till where we did get up<LB>We do again get down."</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The same irregular crooked streets, the same narrow pavements where we jostle everybody's elbows, and try to go <HI REND="italics">both</HI>
140.sgm: sides of the people we meet.  But bless us, how clean they all are!  What immaculate linen; what spotless <HI REND="italics">mouchoirs</HI>
140.sgm:!  The company we have kept for the last day or two has prepared us for nothing like this.  The Raymond <HI REND="italics">lingerie</HI>
140.sgm:<P>But how sincerely we pity the people who have not been to California.  We often wonder that those who travel habitually turn always to the Old world, before gaining any acquaintance with the New; why cross a stormy ocean, a boisterous channel, and foreign countries by rail and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:diligence to see--Mount Blanc, for instance, when there are wonderful Alps and Apennines at our own doors waiting to be interviewed; and where in all Europe are there waterfalls to be compared with our own beautiful cataracts and cascades?  Then there are the stay-at-home people who can afford to travel and do not, those who are satisfied that their own little hamlet is a good enough place to live in; to such we would respectfully suggest that they can never view their own surroundings correctly until the same are seen through the prospective of distance.  Only snails and turtles carry their shells on their backs.  A word of advice also to those who think they cannot afford such seeming luxury; viz: resolve you <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>If you want to be happy, healthy and wise, if you want to polish down the sharp angles of narrow selfish interests or morbid slant, if you want to grow into the image and likeness of the Creator of this beautiful world, which in all its glory is but a shadow of the <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
140.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<DIV><AD><P>RAYMOND'S VACATION EXCURSIONS.</P>
140.sgm:<P>All Traveling Expenses Included.</P>
140.sgm:<P>W. RAYMOND.<HSEP>I. A. WHITCOMB.</P>
140.sgm:<P>AUTUMN, WINTER, AND SPRING TRIPS</P>
140.sgm:<P>TO</P>
140.sgm:<P>THE PACIFIC COAST.</P>
140.sgm:<P>ELEGANT TRAINS OF PULLMAN VESTIBULED SLEEPING-CARS WITH DINING-CARS AND COMPOSITE CARS ATTACHED (the latter containing library and reading room, barber shop, and bath room) used on transcontinental journeys.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Parties leave Boston, New York, and Philadelphia each year during the month of</P>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">SEPTEMBER--For The Yellowstone National Park, The Pacific Northwest and California,</HI>
140.sgm: with visits to St. Paul, Minneapolis, Tacoma, Seattle, Puget Sound, The Columbia River, San Francisco, and all the principal points of interest in <HI REND="bold">Central and Southern California</HI>
140.sgm:, with a return <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">OCTOBER TOURS to The Pacific Coast</HI>
140.sgm: <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
140.sgm: <HI REND="bold">The Northern Pacific Route and The Pacific Northwest,</HI>
140.sgm: and also <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
140.sgm: Chicago, Kansas City, and The Atchison, Topeka &amp; Santa Fe Route through <HI REND="bold">Kansas, New Mexico, and Arizona.</HI>
140.sgm:<P>Both the September and October trips offer the opportunity of making an Autumn Excursion to California, and a sojourn throughout the winter in Southern or Central California.</P>
140.sgm:<P>WINTER TOURS</P>
140.sgm:<P>To the health and pleasure resorts of <HI REND="bold">Southern and Central California.</HI>
140.sgm:<P>A Choice of TWO ROUTES for the westward journey, and FOUR ROUTES RETURNING.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Visits in California to Redlands, San Bernardino, Riverside, San Diego, and the magnificent Hotel Del Coronado, Los Angeles, the elegant Raymond Hotel at East Pasadena, Redondo Beach, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, San Jose, Santa Cruz, the beautiful Hotel Del Monte at Monterey, Mount Hamilton, San Rafael, and other points of interest.</P>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Independent Tickets</HI>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>Spring Trip to California and Colorado,</P>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">EACH YEAR.</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">A Tour of Sixty-two Days Across the Continent,</HI>
140.sgm:<P>California and the Pacific Northwest.</P>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Annual Spring Tour Across the Continent and through the Pacific Northwest,</HI>
140.sgm: with visits to Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, California, the Mount Shasta Region, Oregon, Washington, the Picturesque Columbia River, Puget Sound, British Columbia, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, and <HI REND="bold">The Yellowstone National Park.</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">A Grand Excursion of Seventy-Five Days.</HI>
140.sgm:<P>TOURS TO MEXICO.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Parties leave Boston, New York, and Philadelphia in <HI REND="bold">January, February, and March</HI>
140.sgm: of each year for an extended tour through <HI REND="bold">Old Mexico,</HI>
140.sgm: with visits to its chief cities and places of historic and picturesque interest, including Zacatecas, Aguas, Calientes, Leon, Silao, Guanajuato, Queretaro, Toluca, Orizaba, Puebla, the Pyramid of Cholula, Tlaxcala, Guadalajara, Chihuahua, the grand scenic points on the Mexican Railway, and the <HI REND="bold">City of Mexico.</HI>
140.sgm:<P>The January and February Excursions make a subsequent trip through the most delightful regions of the Pacific Coast, and homeward through Utah, Colorado, and the Grand Canons, Gorges and Passes of the Rocky Mountains, with visits to Riverside, San Diego, Coronado Beach, Redondo Beach, Pasadena, Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, Monterey, Santa Cruz, San Jose, San Rafael, San Francisco, Salt Lake City, Manitou Springs, Denver, Niagara Falls, etc.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Tickets can also be supplied for the return from California <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">The March Excursion is A Grand Tour of Forty Days through the Southern States and Mexico,</HI>
140.sgm: omitting California, and returning <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
140.sgm:<P>All Mexico parties are limited in numbers, and travel in <HI REND="italics">Elegant Trains of Pullman Vestibuled Palace Cars, with Pullman Palace Dining-Cars and Composite Cars</HI>
140.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
140.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
140.sgm:<P>EXCURSION TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS,</P>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Leaving San Francisco in February.</HI>
140.sgm:<P>SUMMER EXCURSIONS TO ALASKA</P>
140.sgm:<P>IN</P>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">JUNE, JULY, and AUGUST.</HI>
140.sgm:<P>SUMMER EXCURSIONS TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.</P>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">JULY, AUGUST, and SEPTEMBER.</HI>
140.sgm:<P>TRIPS TO POPULAR EASTERN RESORTS.</P>
140.sgm:<P>During the months of July, August, September and October there are a series of excursions to the leading mountain, river, lake, seashore, and spring resorts of New England, Canada, New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Virginia, with visits to the White Mountains of New Hampshire, Adirondack Mountains of New York, Blue Ridge of Maryland, Hudson River, St. Lawrence River and Rapids, Saguenay River, Montreal, Quebec, Saratoga, Lake George, Lake Champlain. Lake Placid, Lake Memphremagog, Moosehead Lake, Bras d'Or Lakes, Cape Breton Island, Mauch Chunk, Watkins Glen, Niagara Falls, Trenton Falls, The Thousand Islands, Ausable Chasm, Isles of Shoals, Mount Desert, New Brunswick, Prince Edward's Island, Nova Scotia, Old Orchard Beach, The Battlefield of Gettysburg, Blue Mountain House, Old Point Comfort, Natural Bridge of Virginia, Luray Caverns, Harper's Ferry, Richmond, Washington, etc.</P>
140.sgm:<P>Send for descriptive circulars designating trips desired.</P>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">RAYMOND &amp; WHITCOMB</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">CHIEF OFFICE: 296 WASHINGTON STREET (Opposite School Street), BOSTON.</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">NEW YORK OFFICE: 257 BROADWAY.</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">PHILADELPHIA OFFICE: 111 SOUTH NINTH ST. (under Continental Hotel).</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">CHICAGO OFFICE: 103 SOUTH CLARK ST., cor. Washington Street.</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">E. H. HUGHES, AGENT.</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">LONDON OFFICE: 142 STRAND, W.C. HENRY GAZE &amp; SON,</HI>
140.sgm:<P>European Agents for Raymond's American Excursions.</P>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">AGENTS ON THE PACIFIC COAST.</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">For Southern California,</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Los Angeles Office,</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">San Francisco Offices,</HI>
140.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Portland (Or.) Office,</HI>
145.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-145</TITLE>
145.sgm:<TITLE>Old Californian days.  By James Steele: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
145.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
145.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
145.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
145.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
145.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-747</LCCN>
145.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
145.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>40053</COPYRIGHT>
145.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
145.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
145.sgm:<P>OLD</p><P>CALIFORNIAN DAYS</p><P>JAMES STEELE.</p><P>BELFORD-CLARKE CO</p><P>CHICAGO</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
145.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
145.sgm:<P><illus entity="a145-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MISSION GARDEN, SANTA BARBARA.  <HI REND="italics">FRONTISPIECE</HI>
145.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
145.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
145.sgm:<P>OLD</p><P>CALIFORNIAN DAYS</p><P>JAMES STEELE</p><P>ILLUSTRATED.</p><P>CHICAGO:</p><P>BELFORD-CLARKE CO.</p><P>1889.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
145.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
145.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1889<LB>BELFORD-CLARKE CO. </p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
145.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
145.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P>CHAPTER.<HSEP>PAGE.<LB>I.  THE BRIEF STORY,<HSEP>9<LB>II.  A SCRAP OF HISTORY,<HSEP>15<LB>III.  THE BEGINNING AND THE END,<HSEP>34<LB>IV.  A MEMENTO OF THE OLD DAYS,<HSEP>51<LB>V.  SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO,<HSEP>70<LB>VI.  THE PEOPLE OF THE ADOBE,<HSEP>97<LB>VII.  THE OLD AND THE NEW,<HSEP>120<LB>VIII.  A CONNECTING LINK,<HSEP>132<LB>IX.  SOME "ARGONAUTS,"<HSEP>147<LB>X.  NOOKS AND CORNERS,<HSEP>164<LB>XI.  AN OLD DIARY,<HSEP>182<LB>XII.  THE ORIGINAL CALIFORNIAN,<HSEP>199</p></DIV>
145.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
145.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
145.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P>SUBJECT.<HSEP>PAGE.<LB>MISSION GARDEN, SANTA BARBARA,<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
145.sgm:<LB>A COUNTRY FAMILY,<HSEP>177<LB>A DILAPIDATED CORNER,<HSEP>80<LB>A "MESTIZO,"<HSEP>173<LB>AN ARGONAUT,<HSEP>153<LB>AN INDIAN WHO STAID CONVERTED,<HSEP>169<LB>BABY AND CRADLE,<HSEP>221<LB>BEFORE THE RAILWAYS,<HSEP>147<LB>BETWEEN NEW AND OLD:--A CORNER IN LOS ANGELES,<HSEP>97<LB>CONTEMPLATION,<HSEP>128<LB>DIGGER AND WIFE,<HSEP>193<LB>FRANCISCANS OF SANTA BARBARA,<HSEP>123<LB>FROM THE PENINSULA,<HSEP>205<LB>INDIAN TYPES:--APACHE CHILDREN,<HSEP>209<LB>INDIAN TYPES:--PUEBLO SCHOOL-GIRL,<HSEP>213<LB>INDIAN TYPES:--YUMA CHILDREN,<HSEP>217<LB>IN THE 50'S,<HSEP>159<LB>MISSION BUILT OF ADOBE,<HSEP>108<LB>MISSION INDIANS OF TODAY,<HSEP>135<LB>MOJAVE GIRL,<HSEP>223</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>SUBJECT.<HSEP>PAGE.<LB>NO GOSPEL THEN OR NOW,<HSEP>141<LB>OLD ADOBE WALLS,<HSEP>115<LB>PUEBLO GIRL,<HSEP>201<LB>SEA-GOING BOAT OF THE TIME OF LEIF THE LUCKY,<HSEP>21<LB>SHIP OF CABRILLO'S TIME,<HSEP>23<LB>THE CALIFORNIA DESERT,<HSEP>34<LB>THE CORRIDORS,<HSEP>87<LB>THE DESCENDANT OF A MISSION SOLDIER,<HSEP>164<LB>THE DIGGER'S ANTIPODE:--A PUEBLO WOMAN,<HSEP>199<LB>THE FIRST PALMS,<HSEP>14<LB>THE FIRST SETTLER,<HSEP>120<LB>THE MOTHER MISSION:--SAN DIEGO,<HSEP>187<LB>THE OLD GATE OF THE GARDEN,<HSEP>103<LB>"THE ORIGINAL CALIFORNIAN,"<HSEP>182<LB>THE REFORMER OF HIS TIME,<HSEP>30<LB>THE SAN GABRIEL BEES,<HSEP>57<LB>THE UNIVERSAL ROMAN TOWER,<HSEP>50<LB>"THEY MADE NO MISTAKES":--CALIFORNIA MISSION AND VALLEY,<HSEP>39<LB>WHAT THE MISSIONARIES FOUND,<HSEP>42<LB>WHAT THE MISSIONARIES LEFT,<HSEP>224<LB>WINE AND WASSAIL,<HSEP>72</p></DIV>
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145.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.<LB>THE BRIEF STORY.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P>EVERY land has its story; a story in the telling of which there are two distinct methods.  One way includes only the question of what are called "resources"; the things that are present today, and will increase or decline tomorrow, and which interest the average American accordingly.  The other is misty, intangible, historical, a hovering phantom whose presence is not visible, but which is nevertheless always there, an abiding legacy to whoever shall come, an influence not to be avoided, a mist such as that with which time has dimmed the colors of an old painting; not intended, but something which to all beholders belongs to the picture.</p><P>This story may be divided into periods, of which, in respect to California, there are manifestly three.  First, there is the old time of the Missions, part of the scheme of Spanish conquest, imparting a certain coloring which nothing more practical and modern will ever entirely wash out.  Second, the American romance of the Argonauts; a romance not any more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:intended than the first, but one of the most thrilling in history, producing a new development of the myriad Saxon character as evolved on this continent.  It is only forty years old.  Men are living who took part in it.  Yet it has gone into history as a distinct romance, scarcely considered in any other light, but illy to be spared from the story of American progress, or the pages of that unpractical but indispensable literature which time builds, which every nation owns, and which in time comes to be considered a legacy and possession as sacred as the monuments that commemorate any species of human glory.  The third period must of necessity be described by a word which culture condemns and refinement refuses to recognize.  It comprises the time at which the American re-discovered the climatic secret of the Spaniard.  It is the period of the "Boom."</p><P>The time has not come for any description of this last, though its remarkable results are seen on every hand.  The time must come when an attempt will be made to formulate into some degree of compactness and tangibility the dead-and-gone sensations of the people whose singular experience it was to witness with their very eyes all the processes of the making of an empire: an Oriental empire, that grew like the exhalations of a night; by the rubbing of a lamp; by an incantation; full of miracles; substantial, yet covered with mystery and clothed upon with a garment not heretofore worn by any form of American life.  It is a period when the most brilliant exploits of financiering, the wildest dreams of speculation, the most extravagant pretensions, the most striking forms <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:of assertion, are covered by an accomplishment heretofore marked only by the lapse of painful years; by a visible achievement heretofore only known in the passage of centuries.  The sunshine covers it all with a yellow glory.  The winterless year wreathes it with garlands.  It might be a corner of Algiers.  On its coast invisible spirits sing, "come unto these yellow sands."  Nature has made it the domain of the always afternoon; enterprise and race have turned it into a hive whose hum is ceaseless.  Blue mountains fence the horizon, and its valleys smile in a kind of Biblical peace whose restfulness does not touch the modern soul.  The home of the cypress and myrtle, its very air that of the old lands where in all ages the human soul has dreamed, there are yet neither garlands nor dreams.</p><P>The first of these periods can only be recalled by bringing together the shreds and ravelings of a history which covers several centuries, yet the mementoes of it dot the Californian landscape as strangely as though old Spain had been awakened with a new population amid her orange-groves and gray walls; with new water in her mossy sluices; with a new language and a strange religion.  Thoroughly in keeping with the landscape, but strangely at variance with all artificial surroundings, the crumbling towers of these ancient temples keep one all the time wondering if this be any lawful portion of the great American inheritance, and perhaps one sometimes wishes them entirely out of the way.  Daily the incongruity between the then and the now becomes more striking, and daily the crumbling walls remind more strongly of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:modern usurpation of what was meant for other uses.  So long as they shall stand there is a feeling that it is not entirely a Saxon country.  Flowers and eternal summer are not the natural surroundings of the race.  The arts of irrigation, the culture that is Egyptian, the vegetation that knows no autumn tints and falling leaves, the exotic odors that burden the air, the brown hills that can never be white with snow, the eternal yellow sunshine and blue haze; these things have never, in the history of civilization before, been the lawful and permanent property of those whose ancestors have been the brethren of white winter and the hardy nurselings of storms and cold.</p><P>There should rather be the tinkling of vesper-bells across long reaches of pasture lands.  There should be flowing garments, and brown faces, and black eyes, and maidens with red roses in their braids.  There should be old-world songs, and rustic dances, and the dim faint tinklings of guitar-strings in the night.  There should be processions, and wayside crosses, and all the simple ways of a people who do not learn or change, who believe what they are told, and who are content with what has been for a thousand years.  There should be laden asses traversing rocky mountain paths, and dusty footmen who hope sometime to reach their journey's end content, and women who sit and spin in open doorways, and the brown robes of friars, and the shovel hats of priests; and over all that sweet content unknown in American life.</p><P>And even here such things have been.  It was primarily because the country was like Spain that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:were.  They seemed permanent.  There was no portent of any change.  The Spanish tongue and faith were firmly planted amid surroundings so natural that the only difference was that they were better.  There was absolute isolation.  The sea was on the one hand and a wide wilderness on the other.  The names were of all the dear saints and saintesses of times beyond the Moor, before the crusades, or the Armada, or Martin Luther.  The Virgin, Nuestra Sen&tilde;ora la Reina de Los Angeles, had this new realm of roses for her own, and they gave her fresh garlands every day.  The Alcalde was here with his tasseled staff, and the soldier with his casque and his clumsy musket, and the crone with her herbs and her gossip, and the young man with his sombrero and his moustache, and the girl with her eyes and her rebosa.  No land the Spaniard found in all his wanderings suited him and was made for him so nearly as this.</p><P>And he lost it first of all, and so easily.  It was first by a real-estate transaction of the shrewd American, known as the treaty of Guadaloupe Hidalgo, and secondly by the discovery of that which first, after mother church, has ever been the Spaniard's ruling passion, gold.  The evil fate which timed the sequence of these events must be taken as part of the Spaniard's lot on this side the sea.  He has gone, and the mementoes of his brief and picturesque time are solely those Roman towers which time is throwing down, and the mouldering crosses that stand above unnamed graves.  The coming of these unheralded ambassadors of Christ; their conquering of savage tribes as though by a necromatic spell; was wonderful.  Their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:broken-hearted flitting was almost tragic.  But in neither case were they intentionally making history, and he who seeks to know the details of one of the great stories of human endeavor must delve almost blindly.</p><illus entity="a145-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE FIRST PALMS.</p></CAPTION>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.<LB>A SCRAP OF HISTORY.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P>PERHAPS it might more properly be called a want of history, for in the earlier annals of this unique republic the scrap referred to is never mentioned.  Hale, Barnes, Quackenbos, Hassard, Bancroft, Johnston, Frost, Scudder--go through the endless list of elementary and abbreviated histories as far as you will--and you will find all the earlier facts succinctly stated in their order.  All but this, perhaps in its way the most interesting of all.  Every school-boy knows Captain John Smith to an extent of intimacy that entirely prevents his somewhat hypothetical exploits from becoming mixed with those of any other of his innumerable namesakes.  Pocahontas and her adventures is as familiar as Cinderella, and almost as true.  Sometimes the more prominent of the Pilgrim Fathers are known by name, and in many cases a distinct relationship is claimed with them.  One immortal Spaniard claims precedence in the school-boy idea; poor old Ponce de Leon, who for the fountain of youth found the Okeechobee swamps, and for fabled wealth and eternal life a grave in the Mississippi.  Nothing can be more familiar than all the men and perils of those early beginnings, the whys and wherefores of them, and the momentous and enormous results that immediately followed or have since grown out of them.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>For they pertain to the eastern coast; to the Saxon side.  They are interesting because they are of us and our affairs.  There is an egotism of which we are not conscious, and of which we often accuse others, which has sometimes caused us to forget that the American continent has more than one side.</p><P>It has distinctly two, and the early beginnings of the western coast form a curious parallel with those of the eastern.  To trace this parallel may not be uninteresting save to those who view even history from a race and personal stand-point; to whom the picturesque is nothing and the practical all.  Many of the curiosities of American history seem to have been lost sight of.  Few reflect that there are sixty million people on this side the sea who speak the Spanish tongue, and least of all is it remembered that the motive that brought the winning and abiding civilizations alike to the Atlantic and the Pacific coasts was a religious one.  The cupidity that planted Jamestown failed, but the zeal that nourished itself amid the bleak sterility of a country sparsely inhabited even by the Indians, lived.  So the gold-hunting Spaniard died around the tattered banners of innumerable expeditions, but the Franciscan survived.  It was the church of Paul that came to the East; that of Peter lived its day of zeal and died its lingering death in the West.  Each begot a certain civilization, the chiefest characteristics of which still remain, opposed eternally, one to be finally and utterly obliterated by the other.  The rivalry and struggle are of these times, for in the beginning they knew nothing of each other.  A thousand leagues of what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:is now the most splendid empire the world has ever seen lay unexplored between them, unknown to both.  The Puritan saw his immediate surroundings; the Franciscan only his.  But alike on both coasts was the seed of civilization planted in toil and tears, and nourished with prayer and blood.</p><P>The parallel does not begin with civilization and settlement only, but goes back even to discovery; with Leif the Lucky on the one hand, and one Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo on the other.  The first was an event so dim in the past that until very lately it was not recognized as an historical fact at all, and the last follows it at an interval of only some five hundred years.  The world was then wholly wrapped in that deep sleep which may be likened to the slumbers of infancy.  The flight of eventless centuries did not count.  For all that happened between, these two events might have followed each other immediately.  In fact, all that did happen was that western voyage of Columbus which has linked his name forever with the greatest event in history.  Yet it might be said, not without argument and dispute, but with as much reason and fairness as history ordinarily shows, that it is to Leif and Cabrillo we owe it all.  Vinland and its successive settlements and abandonments, and New Spain with its fruitless expeditions and discouraged adventurers, are neither of them myths.  From the story of Leif did Columbus obtain the idea which sustained him in what was so long considered the original inspiration of his genius, and from Cabrillo and his lonesome voyages in wider and still less familiar waters than those of the Atlantic, came finally the wonderful story of California.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>For Columbus visited Iceland in 1477, and doubtless obtained surprising ideas from those mouldy records which were in existence long enough before and after his death to rob him of a portion of his fame.  He was like many a more recent inventor in that he possessed the faculty of practical adaptation, at the moment when the sleeping world was awakening from that lethargy which is itself one of the unexplained wonders of history.  The son of Eric the Red did not perceive the import of the adverse winds and the torn sails which cast him unwilling upon New England shores.  Yet his kindred, and not those of Columbus, have finally made America what it is.  Philip III. of Spain was one of those who do not forget, and when after Cabrillo came the Englishman, Drake, in 1578, naming the country New Albion, he grew jealous and sent a mariner named Vizcaino to explore the country.  He did this, and made a report on parchment which was doubtless duly filed, and which staid in its distinguished pigeon-hole for a hundred and sixty-seven years.  As for Drake, all English-speaking people have been in the habit of regarding him as a great navigator and explorer.  Viewed from another side he was nothing of that kind.  Reputable Spanish records speak of him as a pirate, and an intelligent Castilian will grow warm upon the point to this day.  His offense consisted apparently in the very common modern one of impudence--it was the "New Albion" business that consigned him to infamy.  Yet he never knew that Cabrillo had preceded him in the bay of San Diego, into which, and out of which, each one sailed in turn, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:each as unconscious as the other of the remote results of his lonely find on those shining western shores.</p><P>As in the case of Leif's discovery, where at intervals of a few years various settlements were made and each in turn abandoned, Cabrillo's early find bore fruit.  How many expeditions to "Las Californias" were organized, how many never returned, what sufferings and disappointments they endured, will never be known.  They all failed like the settlements of the Danes and Swedes on the Atlantic coast.  They both lacked the motive of those two opposing yet identical religions which burned like fire in the bowels of their adherents, which carried them through perils and punishments like those of Paul, and which made them glory in peril and martyrdom.  The Pilgrims faced the wilderness with an obstinacy inherited by their sons and daughters ever since, and the Franciscans amid cactus, rock, alkali and sage had no less a long series of vicissitudes and perils.  It is true that the religious motives of the two settlements were different.  One sought "freedom to worship God" for themselves; the other freedom to make others worship according to the dictates of an imported conscience.  Both largely failed in these intentions, the result being in both instances to found a civilization in which religion can hardly be said to be either a foundation or a ruling motive.  But it was the inspiration of the Cross in either case that furnished the motive for the two early struggles most prominent in the annals of a continent.</p><P>For they were times so inconceivably curious that no modern man or woman can form an adequate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:conception of them.  Years and centuries were but as days.  Reforms were unknown except as connected with the two forms of the Christian faith; forms so virulent that each was to the other worse than "heathenesse;" an object of hatred such as in later times can not be engendered by the mere differences of opinion inevitable among men.  Yet religion was the great power of the world.  It was to believe all, and undoubtingly, that men lived.  There was no science.  Stories of inconceivable magnitude were readily believed, and tales of colossal proportions implicitly relied upon.  The world was flat.  The sun moved.  Stars fell.  Electricity was merely the quality of rubbed amber.  Gravitation, co-existent with the universe, was an idea not to be evolved for hundreds of years, and the circulation of the blood had not yet occurred to any man.  There were "gorgons, and hydras, and chim&aelig;ras dire."  A personal devil walked the earth unabashed and uncontrolled for four centuries after these times, and in despite of him there were undoubted miracles wrought among the faithful; miracles that all believed in on peril of their souls.  Literalism was an implacable ghoul that claimed victims from every class.  Then were born those beliefs whose descendant beliefs are not yet eradicated, and which tie the human race to the past.</p><P>Yet they were the times of learning, even of scholarship.  Asceticism, the rapt attention of a soul to theories, has never thriven so well before or since.  Alchemy claimed its disciples by the score, and an universal solvent was as nearly on the eve of realization as levitation is now.  Knowing nothing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:stupidity as to truth and gullibility as to theory and assertion were the rule.  To have brains, to reason, was to be a magician, and to be burned or to be famous accordingly.  There was a passion for travel, and a thirst for the barbarous glory which came of self-reported adventure and research.  The first time that the word "California" is known to have been used is as the name of a wonderful island.  It is in a wild old Spanish narrative published at Seville in <illus entity="a145-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SEA-GOING BOAT OF THE TIME OF LEIF THE LUCKY.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:1510, and is there referred to as being "on the right hand of the Indies."  The place was peopled with Amazons and Griffins, and the said women were black.  Some reader of this narrative remembered it, and gave it certainty by being present when the country was actually discovered, for it was an age when a little story like that, told by a reputable man and having every internal evidence of probability, impressed itself upon the hearer.</p><P>Out of this dull and stupid mass of universal ignorance and credulity drifted Leif the Lucky, son <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:of Eric the Red, on one coast, and out of it came Cabrillo on the other.  Between the two sailed Columbus advisedly, for he knew the luckless history of the lucky one.  Both the former went here and there in frail vessels over unknown seas, kept by the Virgin or Odin as the case might be, and guided by a magnetized bit of metal hung by a thread held upon occasion with the thumb and finger.  How little they knew of the results of their wanderings may be guessed by the fact that Columbus, the only purpose-guided mariner of the three, died after his third voyage without in the least knowing what he had discovered, or having heard the name of either Columbia or America, or being aware of the simple fact that Cuba is an island.</p><P>California is the child of Spain, and Spain of the sixteenth century is a more interesting study than she has ever been since.  It is a matter of unceasing astonishment how far the old dominion of her <HI REND="italics">conquistadores</HI>
145.sgm: spread, and how wide are even now the influences and results they have left behind.  The first European who ever looked upon the wide plains that lie between the East and the West, or studied, doubtfully, the ashen flood of the Missouri, or saw the ancient homes of the Pueblos, or made his forgotten grave amid the cactus and sage, was a Spaniard.  She was the greatest maritime power of the world, and she combined with this the fact that she had more religion than all the world beside.  This made an unique combination when we come to consider it, for she early adopted rules which prevented the embarcation of any heretic, or relative of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:a heretic, to her countries beyond sea.  She proposed to keep them uncontaminated, and, when the rule was violated she punished the evil-doer with fines and whippings, often with both.  Only natives of Spain proper were permitted to travel as passengers <illus entity="a145-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SHIP OF CABRILLO'S TIME.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:to these new countries, and in 1662, a little time after California came into her hands, the punishment for so much as going on board an "India" ship without the necessary vouchers was seven years in the galleys.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>One can not but think with amused surprise of the ship, either Cabrillo's, or Drake's, or Vizcaino's, which lumbered into the harbor of San Diego fifty or a hundred years apart in those good old times.  She was round-bowed and square-sterned, of at most some three or four hundred tons, and so bad a sailor that one wonders how she ever came at all.  She was a stately craft, her decks loaded with towering structures at each end having a height equal to a fourth of her length.  The sides "tumbled home," as sailors say, so that her greatest width was below the water-line, and her least on deck.  She could not carry even her lower sails with a stiff breeze.  If she was of 400 tons her average length was less than seventy feet, while an American vessel of 150 tons is now more than that.  She sailed sidewise almost as well as forward, and she pitched and rolled and strained continually.  She had two masts, and her bowsprit was as long as the mizzen.  In her adornment and fittings she attained a luxury to which even a Pullman car is a stranger.  The poop and forecastle were rich with carvings and emblazonry of armorial bearings, and the stern and quarters flamed with paint and gold.  She had balustrades and galleries whereon aristocratic passengers disported themselves until the first hard blow broke them to pieces.  Even the sails were ornamented with allegorical figures, and from every available projection streamed flags and pennants from twenty to eighty yards long.  She was manned by some fifteen officers and seventy or eighty men, besides experts to work the guns, and a company of soldiers.  The most important person on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:board was the pilot, though he was third in rank, and he had charge of the course of navigation and the actual handling of the ship.  Yet, as late as 1550, it was understood that he was fully competent, after a civil-service examination, if he could read the sailing-orders and write his own name with a <HI REND="italics">rubrica</HI>
145.sgm: under it, after a Spanish fashion still imperative.  He cost thousands of lives as an institution, but should not be too much blamed when it is remembered that it was a time when scholars considered America to be undoubtedly India, that the Antilles were a part of the main land, and that Greenland was an immediate adjunct of eastern Siberia.  The life of a sailor on board one of these floating palaces was that of a dog; that of a passenger of an outcast.  There were vermin, bilge-water, rolling, pitching, cramps, quarrels between the two pilots, guessing as to where they were.  Three hundred souls were frequently on board such a vessel, and they guessed themselves across the Atlantic, and around Cape Horn, and up the long Pacific coast, and it was thus that California was discovered.  What was called "ship fever" was a common thing in those days.  Thus sailed the great Armada, and the men who cowed and scattered it, English sailors, were allowed to rot and starve in the streets of Margate by their queen, the stately and stingy Elizabeth.</p><P>Those were the palmy days of the pirates.  There were whole fleets of them.  They lay in wait for every straggling galleon, and often they took them as often as they came to them, fighting if necessary.  Ships sailed generally in convoys and fleets, and there was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:great ceremony.  They saluted each other all the time.  There was more powder fired away in ceremony than in fighting, and when the time of fighting came there was nothing to do it with.  And the fleets almost always became scattered.  A gale which now would produce no uneasiness whatever would then scatter, dismast or sink a whole fleet of galleons.  They collided and ran into each other.  A West Indian "norther" meant certain destruction to everything afloat.  Lost galleons were counted not by names, but by hundreds.  There was war with England.  It lasted a quarter of a century.  The English did not have any better ships, but they hated "Spain and popery," and they had the Britannic lust for Spanish gold.  Here began that decay of Spanish power which has been the puzzle of historians.  The Inquisition through several generations killed off the thinking and studious class at home, and the ocean storms and the English killed the active and athletic class at sea.  They were both recognized factors of destruction even at the time.  South America, the Antilles, Las Californias, had Spanish emigrants by the thousand.  Though only a portion of these survived, they never returned.  They were the wonderful seed of that miraculous planting whose fruitage yet survives, making the whole of South America practically Spain, and coming up on this continent to the extent that about one-third of it was theirs until very recent times.  This Spanish occupation was possessed of a virility capable of being supplanted only by Saxon blood.  It is impossible to quite understand how a people that could so root itself abroad could so decay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:at home.  As before stated, the customs, the laws, the language and the religion of Spain are the inheritance of some sixty millions of people on this side the sea at the beginning of the twentieth century.  It is so striking a fact that every detail and reminiscence of its beginnings is of interest.  Cortez, De Balboa, Ponce de Leon, Narvaez, De Soto, Pizarro, and later, but not least, the Franciscan Friar, Padre Junipero Serra, were men with great hearts and steady purposes, undaunted by anything the uncharted seas or the unfriendly shores might bring.  Actuated by the love of God, or the love of gold, their conduct was in the same line, heroic every day.  The last man, the Saxon, has taken California and made it what it is to-day.  He has taken what he was pleased to call a desert, and has checkered it with railways, and starred it with electric lights, and dotted it with villas.  His domes and gilded spires stand out among the green foliages his hand has planted, and through the morning mist shines his starry banner.  It is his, but his occupation lacks the element of heroism, a heroism and toil he does not pretend to understand or care about.  Thither has he brought the traditions of Plymouth Rock and the legends of Boston Bay or the James River, and perhaps something of his inner life is fed by them.  Yet there is another history in whose traditions he must share.  He must remember that the "stern and rock-bound coast" had its parallel on this, the opposite side, and on such traditions does his Californian greatness stand.  It is a history strangely mingled with that sunshine and romance which goes everywhere with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the Spanish people.  It was embodied in religious endeavor, in missionary zeal, and such written memorials of it as there are, are found in musty documents that smell of the cloister and are larded with pious ejaculations.  For, to repeat, it was religion, a pious motive, a zeal for Christ, that finally brought the men who came and staid, to either coast.  They were wide apart.  Each one would have prevented the other if he could, yet the result was in each case the same.  The only difference is this: the Spaniard, the Franciscan, would never have crossed the continent--the Puritan did.  Sunshine, the olive and the vine, were the natural surroundings of the one.  Rocks, the gnarled oak, hard winters, a sterile soil, toil, and the little palisaded church in the woods whither the worshiper went with his gun, were those of the other.  An awful creed and a frowning God nerved the Puritan to the vicissitudes of duty.  A beautiful and glorified woman, queen of the Angels and Mother of Christ, beckoned the other.  The very climate of the two contrasting civilizations would mark the difference, and it is here remarked, to be contradicted, of course, and yet stand among the striking probabilities, that, people it as you will, unite it with the East by still more continental lines, let its people come from wheresoever, it is not the width of a continent, but a million miles that separate it from Puritanism, and an uncongenial soil will never nourish here to vigor the faith that conquered New England.</p><P>Following somewhat loosely the story of Spain and England in the sixteenth century, it is necessary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:to refer to matters a little precedent but intimately connected with the subject.  For it was the founding of the sect that founded California that is especially referred to.  The great motive in men's affairs was in Europe for several centuries a religious one.  They were all continuously engaged in making the world morally, or rather piously, better.  Success seemed imminent every day of those old days, and all heathenesse was very soon to come under the banner of that faith which, to say truth, has caused more misery and tears and blood, more longing and penances and prayers and wasted endeavor, than a thousand paradises could compensate.  The priest went everywhere, and he and the soldier camped together beside all the lonely streams, and on the margins of the desert, on every shore where wind and current cast the caravel, or galleon, or open boat.  Every ceremony that marked the landing of the tireless wanderers on a new coast included the planting of the cross, and thenceforth that land became a province of Christendom, and its benighted people came under a new law whether they would or no.  The spread of the true faith was either the motive or the excuse for the pushing of enterprises and the promotion of expeditions which otherwise the commercial instinct would have condemned, capital in those days being "timid," as it is now.  This was the power which Columbus brought to bear at last upon the mind of Ysabella Catolica, and through her upon her husband.  It has been surmised that he would have been more easily successful if his theory had not involved the heresy that the world was round, whereas, in the case of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:Leif, it did not matter to Odin or to Thor if it were round or flat.  But pious thoughts at last prevailed, and the enterprise was patronized even at the risk of upsetting the accepted Biblical cosmos.</p><illus entity="a145-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE REFORMER OF HIS TIME.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>The religious idea that governed everything prevailed for a period quite beyond the historical conception of men of these days; say something like a thousand years.  About A.D. 1200, or thereabouts, it occurred to a priest to establish a new order of friars.  They were, to say truth, quite plentiful already.  Orders in black and gray were everywhere, and the Jesuits had already begun to call down upon themselves the wrath of the temporalities.  But this Francisco d'Assisi combined singular holiness with great powers of mind, and through him arose the great order of mendicant priests called Franciscans, or <HI REND="italics">Fratres Minores</HI>
145.sgm:, Minorites.  The order was invented to bring about a reformed strictness in monastic ways.  There were too many jolly ones, and a certain rubicund rotundity had become a reproach.  There were Tucks in Italy and Spain as well as in England.  Everybody agreed that the rules of Saint Francis were too strict for human frailty, and could not be successfully enforced.  Even His Holiness had such a doubt, but at last consented to issue the writ, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:so to speak, and let reforms come if they would.  There was a general opinion that they were badly enough needed.  The final result, coming after the lapse of centuries, is that Francisco d'Assisi is one of the immortal names of all history, sacred or profane.  He was the founder of an order of ecclesiastical tramps whose feet have wandered upon every coast, whose brown habit has weathered every clime, whose corded waist and crucifix have mingled with every unconverted crowd, and whose poverty has never starved in any land.</p><P>Medi&aelig;val Europe perhaps owes more to the Franciscans than to all other agencies, and in 1209 was born, and for a long time flourished, a spirit which has now passed away from human affairs.  They went everywhere and were felt in everything.  Among them there were great names.  The author of the Stabat Mater was a Franciscan, and so was he who wrote the Dies Ir&aelig;; and among those of the gray robe and sandaled feet were Roger Bacon, Duns Scotus and Bonaventura.</p><P>In 1720, or thereabouts, a young man named Junipero Serra belonged to this already famous order.  A fever like that of his father, St. Francis, was in his veins, and to convert the heathen was his longing and his continual prayer.  His history will not be given here, and it is enough to say that he is truly the patron saint of California.  It would not only be no impropriety, but would be a fitting and proper thing, if his statue should be set by Protestant hands in every Californian town, and his heroic story told in every public school.  Whatever his immediate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:successors may have been, he was himself one of the few exemplifications among men of the power of that higher leading which sometimes glorifies a human life, and then departing lets the sordid ages pass with full churches, but without a single example to shadow forth the Nazarene.</p><P>Following his longing, Serra eventually found himself in Mexico with three companions of his sect.  A hundred and seventy years had passed since the exploration of California by Vizcaino, and the country, pertaining to the realm of medi&aelig;val fable still save for his casual observation of its coast, was again almost forgotten.  Expeditions not guided by faith or religion had gone there during those years, but like those which followed Leif on the eastern coast had accomplished nothing, or had never returned.  There were Indians there, heathens, and it seems to have been the full intention of the Franciscan to visit and convert them when he left first his native shore.</p><P>The first Saxon settlement of territory within the present United States may be considered to have been at Jamestown, in May, 1607.  The Puritans landed at Plymouth in 1620.  They had a hundred and forty-seven years the start of the California movement, for it was not until 1767 that the Jesuits were expelled from the peninsula of California, their church property given to the Franciscans, and Serra's opportunity given him.  The spot selected was that which had become known through the survey of Vizcaino, then, as now, called San Diego.  For it must, to comply with the piety of those times, be San or Santa something.  The name is the same with St. James, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:James (Santiago), who is the patron Saint of old Spain, and whose name has for centuries been the Spanish war-cry and talisman.  His "day" is the 12th of November, and that was the date of Vizcaino's arrival.  Thus the place and the huge county as large as a State in which it lies, lost forever the fleeting title of New Albion, and became, even to the Saxon, the legacy of Spain.</p><P>From this 12th of November, 1602, that which now is known as South, or Southern, California, became Alta or "upper" California.  The people of those times knew little or nothing of all that we include under the name.  They were very ignorant of its resources when they lost it, nearly two and a half centuries later.  But what they considered to be theirs extended without limit or boundary upward, downward and sidewise in all directions.  Certain in the correctness of their intentions, the certainty of their tenure and the perpetuity of their rule, they did not investigate.  Time is nothing to a Spaniard.</p><P>So it was to San Diego that the Franciscan and his companions came.  It is so easy to say they came, and so easy to do it now, that it is difficult to appreciate that awful journey.  The soldier and the priest came together, as usual, and the conquest was one of Church and State combined.  There was an understanding, expressed or implied, but afterward conveniently insisted upon, that the contemplated missions should remain missions only, and exist for that purpose exclusively, for a period of ten years, and after that become civil communities.  They existed in full vigor for more than fifty years.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.<LB>THE BEGINNING AND THE END.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P><illus entity="a145-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CALIFORNIA DESERT.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:</p><P>A WOMAN who has the fortune to live within a stone's-throw of one of the old missions said to the writer: I do not know how it is that these buildings became so dilapidated.  They are not so very long deserted, and in the seventeen years that I have been beside this one not a single stone has changed in the least.  It is precisely as it was when we came.</p><P>If there is any indication of a singular fatality about these sole remaining monuments of the early times of California, there is also about the story of their building.  Everybody has been pleased to speak of Serra who has ever touched the subject at all, but they have also been pleased to stop when they have said but a very little.  A sort of fragmentary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:biography was from time to time written of him by his friends and brother monks, but the record seems to be so meager as scarcely to afford more than a glimpse of a character which must nevertheless be considered a remarkable one.  Men do not see the future, and are unwilling to trust their guesses in regard to it.  All but a few, whose confidence never fails.  One of these latter was Junipero Serra.  He was nineteen years in Mexico before he came to California, and for most of that time was in the outlying regions of that country engaged in missionary work.  When the Jesuits were expelled in 1767 from what we now call Lower California, he was fifty-six years old, and was then but just entering upon a supposed realization of the dream of all his life.  He was not a doubter of either human or divine truths.</p><P>There were sixteen persons in the land party with which Serra was.  There was still another land party, and two more were to go by sea in two ships.  None of the four parties knew anything about it.  They were taking the chances that a part of some one of them would get there.  A man of those times named Galvez had charge of the outfitting and practical part.  It was to him that California is to this day indebted for a considerable addition to the resources found when, after seventy-nine years, an eminently enterprising people became interested.  He ordered the carrying of the seeds of everything that would grow in Spain, together with two hundred head of cattle.  Of these came the herds that were afterward so much at home, and of the seeds and cuttings came much that is most profitable and beautiful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:in California now.  There was, besides, a very complete assortment of holy vessels, crosses, banners and things necessary to the uses and services of the church.  There are even strong evidences that so heavy and inconvenient a thing as a church bell, several of them, was thought of and included.</p><P>If the reader has any idea whatever of the country near the coast in South California, and of the southern part of it where it joins the peninsula of Lower California, and then can imagine it in a state of nature, covered with cactus and sage, crossed by a jumble of mountain ridges, waterless save in hidden places and absolutely pathless, he can have some conception of the rigors of this tramp from Villicata to San Diego.  We may remember that there was a double purpose in it, the first of which was the colonization of California, and the bringing of it into the economy of Spain, and secondly, the conversion of those who, in the cant of that day, both Puritan and Catholic, were known, as by the Mormons now, as "Gentiles."</p><P>At the end of the written instructions of Galvez, which were intended to govern the expedition, he stated, among other things, that one of the objects of the enterprise was "to protect the country from the ambitious views of foreign nations."  This is very Spanish, for the beatiful wilderness of California was then more utterly unknown than are now the scenes of Stanley's explorations in the heart of Africa, and probably its latest "foreign" visit had been that of Drake, one hundred and eighty-nine years before.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>Indeed, the only knowledge of where they were going was obtained from such record as had been made of the "survey" of Admiral Vizcaino, in 1602, a hundred and sixty-five years before.  The two points that attracted especial attention were San Diego and Monterey, both named and described by him for the first time.  Yet so closely was this first definite scheme of colonization and conversion planned, that there were orders to plant a mission and garrison first at San Diego, then at Monterey, and then one half-way between to be called Buena Ventura, a favorite Spanish name meaning "good luck."  The monks, being Franciscans, had thought of their patron, and wished to name a mission for him among the first, and began the journey with the information that if St. Francis wanted one, and would show them the place, he might have it.  They thought he did, and it is known to this day, distinctly and clearly, as San Francisco.  A hint may be given in a consultation between priests and soldiers in the heart of Mexico, and a couple of centuries afterward may be found surviving in the bustling metropolis of a people to whose tongue and sympathies its name is a stranger, and perhaps more in need of missionaries now than it was at the hour of its obscure baptism.</p><P>The expedition having been divided into four bodies in all, Serra insisted upon accompanying one of the land parties, and this, seemingly, for the reason that he had a lame leg, acquired in walking from Vera Cruz to the City of Mexico, twenty years before.  All the degrees of martyrdom seem to have been fully appreciated in those times.  One of the ideas of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:age may be partially illustrated by the fact that Serra never did anything for this difficulty in all the years after, but either aggravated it or was indifferent to it.  Though he immediately broke down when the march began, he refused to be carried, and used his misfortune to wonderful purpose during the remainder of his life.  He walked up and down the coast many times, and only the year before his death went on foot from San Blas, on the western coast, to the City of Mexico, a journey which is quite a feat when ridden, and in these times.</p><P>The journals of that first momentous march are vague to the extent of being little more than pious ejaculations, occasionally accented by a brief statement of fact, studded here and there with a terse and enthusiastic picture included in the space of a sentence.  These meager facts have been made the most of by all the chroniclers of the time, but almost the whole of the story is that it was a toilsome march through a cactus-grown wilderness by two small parties of men who did not know where they precisely were, and had no knowledge each of the other party.  Among other facts stated in letters and journals was this:  "It is a country where nothing abounds but stones and thorns."</p><P>It is a fact that, until very recent times, the South California wilderness differed generally very little from what is now the Colorado or Yuma desert.  Irrigation, the searching for, finding and using of the hidden springs of nature, has made the change.  It was the desert only the Padres first knew, alkali, cactus, sand, sage, brown and dreary mountain ranges <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:utterly unexplored, and they themselves strangers in the midst of the savages they came to convert.</p><P>Had they come far, they must inevitably have perished, and the country would simply have lain still and waited for the Saxon who was the predestined heir of all, who did not wait for the Franciscans and their civilization, and who, when his time came <illus entity="a145-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"THEY MADE NO MISTAKES:" CALIFORNIA MISSION AND VALLEY.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:eighty-five years later, entered as one does who is in no way concerned as to who has been there before him.</p><P>But it was not far.  The present writer must in all sincerity state his entire ignorance as to precisely where in the upper part of the peninsula of Lower California Villacata was situated, but the missionaries left there on March 24th and arrived at San Diego on May 13th.  The party with which Serra <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:was, however, did not reach there until six weeks later, and when they came they found everybody sick with scurvy, and many dead.  The ships were there.  One of them, the San Carlos, which arrived last, lost all her sailors but two.  The San Antonio, the other, which sailed a month and a half later than the San Carlos, reached San Diego twenty days the soonest.  There was some difficulty in finding the place.  An age of discovery and maritime adventure could not furnish any better sailors than that.  She also lost half her crew by that fatal malady, now almost unknown.</p><P>Sometimes, when one has leisure to contemplate the examples of greatness offered by human history he is impressed by the paucity of those who had that quality which the vernacular calls levelheadedness.  Surely in those early days of California, in the remote beginnings, only one man showed such a quality, and that was Galvez, the man who arranged for the cattle, the seeds, plants, etc., and in whose Spanish mind was running not so much the love of God and the triumph of the gospel as the aggrandizement of Spain.  Serra, having for once left off his missionary enthusiasm for a moment's attention to temporal facts, writes of the journey thus: "The tract through which we passed is generally very good land, with plenty of water, and there, as well as here, the country is neither rocky nor overrun with bushwood.  There are many hills, but they are generally composed of earth.  The road has been in some places good, but the greater part bad.  About half way, the valleys and banks of rivulets begin to be delightful.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:We found vines of a large size, and in some cases loaded with grapes; we also found an abundance of roses, which appeared to be like those of Castile.  In fine, it is a good country, <HI REND="italics">and very different from old California</HI>
145.sgm:."</p><P>This letter was written July 3, 1769: No one knows or can guess the half-way spot described, but, considering the authority, it would have answered for a very good South California advertisement of about 1887.  Padre Serra was an enthusiast.  He beat his bare breast with a stone, and burned it with a lighted torch, to illustrate to the Indians the pains and penalties of hell.  But neither he nor any of his brethren ever made a mistake in the location of a mission, and they are invariably the best locations in the California of to-day.  Walking barefoot over those thorny miles, possessed with a burning desire to baptize, longing only to preach the everlasting gospel, one of the most devoted men who has ever followed in the footsteps of the founder of the Christian faith, he yet knew where the land was good, where the wild grapes grew, where there were roses which reminded him of those that in his youth he had seen in the braids of the maids of old Castile.</p><P>The kind of man the great pioneer was may partially be discovered from another letter of his, dated at Monterey, in 1769.  In this he wishes to know the name of the present pope, what friends have died, so that he may pray for them, the names of any newly canonized, so that he may pray <HI REND="italics">to</HI>
145.sgm: them, and adds: "We proceed to-morrow to celebrate the feast and make the procession of Corpus Christi <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<illus entity="a145-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WHAT THE MISSIONARIES FOUND.</p></CAPTION>
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145.sgm:(although in a very poor manner) <HI REND="italics">in order to scare away whatever little devils there may be in this land</HI>
145.sgm:."</p><P>Any one who has lived among the Mexicans may know that this was not a bit of ecclesiastical humor.  They, according to the same training and belief, proceed annually, or oftener, to "scare away the devils" by processions and ceremonies very well suited to the purpose if the fiends have any feeling or taste or nerves whatever.  Serra was a man who believed.  He believed it all.  He had the original theological ideas, and all of them, which now seem so incongruous in a practical and doubting world.  He knew.  In all his days he never wavered in the idea that he should convert the heathen of California, and yet he knew nothing of the task before him.  He was an enthusiast who remained so regardless of difficulty, or fact, or report, or actual demonstration.  And there was therefore never a missionary enterprise before or since so successful as this.  Here are some data, not given from the religio-spiritual view-point, which was Serra's, but from the temporal one of his brethren and successors.</p><P>During sixty-five years only thirty thousand Indians are actually known to have been in the church at one time, and these were engaged in the mission establishments, kept and lodged there, and occupied in profitable industries.  Yet the early beginnings grew into establishments at that time unequaled elsewhere, and since impossible anywhere.  There are no reliable facts showing how many heathens were all the time outside and unconverted.  Some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:have said there were 120,000.  In fact their number has never been precisely known.</p><P>About eighty thousand is the sum-total of all the Indians ever buried in the <HI REND="italics">Campos Santos</HI>
145.sgm:, or consecrated burying grounds, during the whole period of the mission establishments.  If those domiciled in the missions, and employed there, averaged thirty thousand during many years, the estimate leaves an immense number of gentiles to bury themselves in the chapparal.  But it leaves the consoling thought that this eighty thousand at least are among the saved.</p><P>But the temporal side of the account is an encouraging one.  In 1834, when the establishments had begun to decay, the figures were something like these:</p><P>The line of missions was about seven hundred miles long; from San Diego northward to the latitude of Sonoma.  They lay contiguous and adjoining.  Their sites were the most eligible spots of the sunniest land the world knows.  Their affairs were administered by the Padres in a manner that gives one the idea that some modern American enterprises, notably some extensive railway systems, but not by any inadvertence including the various "Trusts," would do well to go to the Church for their business managers.</p><P>Seven hundred thousand cattle grazed on the mission pastures, with sixty thousand horses and an immense number of other domestic animals.</p><P>A hundred and twenty thousand bushels of wheat were raised annually, besides all other crops.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>The usual products came under the following heads: wheat, wine, brandy, soap, leather, hides, wool, oil, cotton, hemp, linen, tobacco, salt, soda.</p><P>Two hundred thousand head of cattle were slaughtered annually, at a net profit of ten dollars each.</p><P>Gardens, vineyards and orchards surrounded or were contiguous to all the missions except the two most northern ones.  Dolores was considered beyond the Spaniard's natural temperature, and San Rafael and San Francisco de Solano were founded too nearly the end, and were strangled in infancy.  Vineyards, after the traditions of Spain, were especially relied upon for comfort, and the vine was then, as now, a principal feature of the country.</p><P>The total average annual gains of the missions from sales and trade generally was more than two million dollars.  This on an uninhabited and distant coast where commerce in our sense was unknown.  The value of the live-stock alone was in 1834 two millions of dollars.</p><P>There was, besides all these resources, a "pious fund" in Mexico, constantly accumulating, which had belonged to the Jesuits and was now the property of these missions.  It amounted to two million dollars.  Toward the end the Mexican government could not resist the temptation of borrowing from this, and finally General Santa Ana confiscated it bodily.  It is to be hoped that Franciscan shades, looking over the battlements of heaven, may have derived some consolation from that sultry afternoon at Buena Vista, when he met his fate at the hands of a man named Taylor, who had no more regard for military etiquette, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:according to contemporaneous Mexican history, than to fight a battle in his shirt-sleeves.</p><P>It now appears that the Spanish government had a theory upon which these missions were established.  It was that after ten years the Indians would become citizens, living in agricultural communities on lands secured to them, and self-supporting and perhaps prosperous.  They intended to use the missions to this end.  The final acts and decrees which secularized them seem to hint at this original intention, and to consider the time ripe for its fulfillment.  The present conclusion is that this theory of the capacity of the American Indian for citizenship was a false one, to which there is only one exception in all the annals of our history.  To him nothing now remains of all the fathers taught him.  He does not remain himself.  Through what means the remnant of him became what it is, may be found by reading a glowing chapter in Mrs. H. H. Jackson's volume, "Glimpses of Three Coasts."  The Indian of the missions existed in great numbers only some fifty years ago.  What has become of him numerically is a question often asked, but which no one can answer, except by theory.  He "died off," say the oldest inhabitants, and there is often an opinion expressed that had he been left alone; had the Franciscans never come at all; had the fearful American plan of "reservations" been at last adopted; some thousands of the original wanderers of the South Californian hills would still be there.  Contemporary testimony is to the effect that he knew about as little as any being that ever bore the human form, and that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the Padres made the most of him, spiritually and temporally.  The turning of spiritual agencies, in the hands of those who bore the habit and the vows of poverty, into skillfully conducted money-making establishments, has had a tendency to prejudice mankind.  It is amusing to study the article, "California," in the average reputable encyclopedia.  The last one examined says: "These zealous apostles, backed when necessary by armed coadjutors, planted various missions, bringing under their influence, such as it was, the great mass of the aborigines.  They became prominent, even in Spanish America, for everything that could paralyze the progress of a community."  Most commentators upon those times allege that the Indians were in reality slaves; that they were flogged and forced in the name of religion; that those outside would not come into the fold, and those inside could not get out.  It seems certain that when the heroic soul of Junipero Serra departed at Monterey, in 1784, the end for which he had endured and prayed was lost sight of, and the human love of ease and gain arose uppermost in all minds.  Thus the briefest history of South California develops one of the saddest stories to be found in the annals of Christian endeavor.  It was a work wrought almost in vain.  There are no results.  There is just a splendid story spoiled, a lofty and pious life wasted, and the doom of a race sealed by the mere effort to civilize and save them.  For hardly more than one hundred years have passed, and the few wretches one encounters, living in huts and wandering through the country at sheep-shearing time, are almost the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:entire visible remnants of the thousands that blackened the hills to watch the entrance of the San Carlos, or the San Antonio, under Point Loma, or who ran, scared away, when the soldiers fired their pieces as an accompaniment of that first mass at a spot facing the port, when the corner-stone of a fatal civilization was laid on the Western coast, on July 16, 1769.</p><P>Perhaps it is one of the ancient and trite stories of mistaken zeal, of misguided heroism.  It will nevertheless remain ever a story worth the telling.  The mission buildings of California, lying broken and deserted in the endless sunshine beneath a matchless sky, exhale an odor of reminiscence and inquiry.  They are among the few monuments of a country that has nothing very old.  Some of them have taken on all the melancholy beauty of moss-grown decay, and at nearly all the visitor questions within himself as to why they should have been so utterly abandoned.  They are incongruous with the times.  They are ruined abbeys.  They lack every personal surrounding they were intended for.  Every one has a history that can now never be told.  But the dreams come.  One remembers that they cost money and infinite toil, that they were built with a skill and solidity, and grew into a beauty, that is of Italy and Spain, and not of this new land even as it is today, not counting the fact that all that is was then as undreamed of as is now an English republic in the heart of Africa.</p><P>But the dreamer knows that after peril and toil had come rest and peace; that of the visions of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:Spanish monk had apparently grown the most splendid missionary success of any age; that these people were at home; that the leagues to the eastward were as impassable as those of the shining ocean to the west; that there was wine, sunshine, security and isolation.  In the then conception no change could come.  It was the Empire of God, ruled by the Church; a form of patriarchal communism that was at last the earthly ideal of the Kingdom of Righteousness.  He almost wishes that his lot had been cast then, and that he knew nothing of that which now makes up his life.  For there still hovers about the California missions an atmosphere which all the winds can not blow away, which is unique in American life, and of which these ruins seem to afford the only taste.</p><P>And then he knows that with Junipero Serra died all; not only the life he individually led, but the life of the curious age he represented on this continent.  It was an unnatural thing this side the sea, and within the inevitable boundaries of that republic in all whose territory there are no such ambitions, no such hopes, no such energies, and one may quite as truly say, no such beliefs.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<illus entity="a145-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE UNIVERSAL ROMAN TOWER.</p></CAPTION>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.<LB>A MEMENTO OF THE OLD DAYS.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P>THE village of San Gabriel is only seven or eight miles from a city which the most prejudiced person from some other Californian locality must acknowledge to be a beautiful one, and which possesses a unique charm for every wanderer not to California born.  The city blooms and booms with the newness of the very newest American life; the village is drowsy with the feeling of a perpetual afternoon.  There are places in this strang country from which this feeling is inseparable, and it seems preposterous that in San Gabriel it should ever be called early in the morning.  There are always long shadows and a peculiar yellowness of the atmosphere.  There is a faint humming sound as of bees.  There is nothing doing.  There is one short street crossed by another, and these four corners, lengthened out a little by some white-washed adobes that are of the olden time, is all there is of it.  These houses have been furnished with "shake" roofs at some period greatly later than that of their original erection, and their walls are coated with the thickest and deadest white ever seen.  But their windows and doors are twins of those found wherever the Spaniard and adobe soil have existed together at any period.  The walls are very thick, and these openings are very small.  One does not step up to enter in, but invariably down, and with a feeling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:that it would be better for him to stoop a little.  In lieu of sidewalks, there are only crooked paths through the gray dust from door to door, and there is a straggling and indefinite end to every thoroughfare and every vista in trees and shrubbery and tangles and general crookedness.  The voices one hears are almost invariably foreign, and the words are provincial Spanish.  There are glimpses of shawls over heads, and of feet that are shod, but deplorably stockingless, and of little boys with brown faces and very black hair and eyes, and with only one suspender and always coatless.  There is no wind and no noise, and you are sure there never was any, and that this day is very nearly like all the other days that have ever come to San Gabriel.  Yet it has only taken you some twenty minutes to reach the place from a metropolitan depot, and if you go out to the uncertain end of the street you will see a mile away a big and balconied hotel, and beside this there is a street-car track.</p><P>The first time I had ever seen the place had been five years before, on a summer afternoon.  I remember how the soft breeze from the west came through the little open depot shed, and stirred the tall weeds with swaying yellow heads outside, and that I could smell the eucalyptus trees, and that I heard that dull and universal drone which seems to be a sound made by silence.  The sun shone hot and the dust lay thick, and there was the jerky bustle of linnets hither and thither, and a brown lizzard stopped at the doorsill and winked at me, and a chipmunk scuttled across the shining rail of the track beside the door with an impatient squeak.  There was nothing in it all to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:make the least impression, yet I remembered it, and went back to it.</p><P>It is the seat of a mission which in its day was the richest of them all; a presage of later times, since there is, perhaps not in all the world, a bit of soil quite equal to the San Gabriel Valley.  It is another one of those cases of not making a mistake in loction which has become proverbial.  You would know it was one of the old places by certain signs above enumerated, and if you did not see the church at all, for there is an occasional discordant clangor of old bells whose tones are never those of any modern casting.  It is one of the two or three remaining mission churches which has a roof on it--a modern one of shingles--and consequently where services are still held.  But it is, on week days at least, a service purely perfunctory.  There are no worshipers.  Morning mass had been omitted on this day within my knowledge, and the priest did not rise until ten o'clock, and when at last he came forth and dawned upon me I felt within me a prescience that when I came again I should not mourn if he came not at all.  For he was the most striking incongruity I have ever encountered at a California mission, where incongruities are less to be tolerated, perhaps, than anywhere else in the world.  A rasping brogue accent noted his first words, which were addressed to an unhappy man, not a priest and yet in holy orders, who was his and the church's servant, and they were thus: "Hoh! has the felley com weth thot mayl yit?"  A heavy shock of reddish hair grew very low on his forehead, and a big jaw and coarse lips made you wonder where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the impulse could have come from which led him into the vow of obedience, poverty and chastity.  An old black coat was covered with patches of white mould where the fungus had grown upon innumerable soup-spots.  His face was unshorn and his eyes were red, and his manners exceedingly bad.  I have an idea that he looked upon his office as a job, and upon his functions as occupation, and that he was not satisfied with his present assignment.  There are Protestant clergymen whom one assigns mentally to the office of a quack doctor, and I regretfully discover Catholic priests who seem to have made a narrow escape from a row of bottles, a big mirror and a long white apron.</p><P>The ecclesiastical servitor I had already encountered, and he was not adverse to the interview I had been having with him.  He met me at the door of the ancient sanctuary, and remarked with a German accent that it would be necessary to charge a fee for entering, owing to the need of repairs in the church.  I smilingly assented and asked him to convey to me a vague and distant hint as to how much he conscientiously thought I ought to contribute towards the rescuing from premature decay of the venerable building, and he unhesitatingly said "mens fo' bits; vimmen, two bits."</p><P>I gave him a dollar in a moment of imprudence, and an elocutionary fervor immediately took possession of him.  I do not know if he had been accustomed to spell-bind visitors with it every day, or if it was specially reserved for such extra occasions as the present, but unquestionably it had been written out for him by some one, and had been duly committed to memory by him.  It abounded, as far as I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:heard it, in graceful delineations of virginal and saintly character, and in passages which reminded me strongly in their style of some of the "lectures" of the lodge-room.  But while he had his back to me, and was waving his hand toward the ancient images behind the altar, I went away to one side to examine the worn leather of the worm-eaten old confessional where the Franciscans had leaned their elbows a century ago.  To obtain possession of me and of my undivided attention he had to stop and come to me, and in the pause that ensued I asked him what he really had that was old to show me.  He replied that the principal treasures of this church were undoubtedly the twenty-one--I think he said twenty-one--actual and legitimate portraits of the apostles and disciples, and he waved his hand around the walls to indicate them where they hung in a long row on each side.  With a countenance which probably bore every indication of profound belief I asked him if he was sure they were actual portraits, and he said they were, "vitout ony tout fatefer."  He then told me that they had come here, the gift of Ferdinand and Isabella, because San Gabriel was intended to be the Cathedral of California.  I neglected at the moment to call attention to a discrepancy in his narrative of a little less than three hundred years lying between the generosity of the celebrated monarchs mentioned and the founding of the California missions, and so he went on to say that every one of them had been painted by Murillo--twenty-one Murillos hanging dilapidated and without frames on the walls of an old building, seven miles from Los Angeles, and yet the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:"boom" had been in real-estate, and not a picture mentioned.</p><P>He mentioned a few moments later the fact that the Fathers yet remaining at San Carlos had lately been obliged to sell the mission plates and utensils to buy bread, and I then said to him that a single authenticated Murillo, sold at half price, would probably tide over any emergency the brethren might come to in a hard year.  He said, yes, it might, but they didn't want to sell them; as soon as they got money enough they were going to have them <HI REND="italics">painted over</HI>
145.sgm:!  I asked by whom, and he said a gentleman was coming to see about it tomorrow--a very good painter indeed.</p><P>In the afternoon I passed that way again, and he had four young men, probably from the hotel a mile away, in front of the altar-rail, and was going uninterruptedly through his lecture.  I caught the words "te most loofly of vimmen; te most anchelic of anchels," and sneaked out again.  I do not know if he told them about the Murillos.  That was not a part of the lecture, of course, and oozed out in a personal conversation I had with him.  Perhaps it was not intended for publication, but I cannot refrain from divulging the fact of their existence to my art-loving countrymen who may find themselves in the neighborhood.  At most an inspiring view of them, in a fair light, only costs "four bits."</p><P>This same accomplished man showed me the redwood ceiling lately made to hide the rafters of the roof--a very decidedly modern innovation--and told me it had cost five thousand dollars.  When it comes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:to the inherent pecuniary value of abstract sacredness, aside from antiquity and associations, I do not pretend to judge.  It may be worth while to repair.  But <illus entity="a145-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SAN GABRIEL BEES.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:I am of opinion that the church of the mission of San Gabriel could now be entirely rebuilt as it stands, with some modern improvements and conveniences, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:for little more than twice the sum he mentioned as the cost of the ceiling.  He also told me that the government of the United States had left this mission only four acres of land, including the cemetery.  Others say that the ground assigned it, and now valuable and rented by it, is more than forty times the amount mentioned.  Should I ever revisit San Gabriel, I should feel strongly inclined to have this man report to me all his store of knowledge, for I did not really question him to any extent.  We passed a huge stucco tomb beside the church.  It lacked, as usual, any inscription whatever, and I asked him if he knew whose it was.  He said, yes, it was a sea-captain's, for all sea-captains were buried with their heads to the pole-star, but he did not remember the name.  There was one black and time-worn crack in the side of it, out of which the bees were issuing, and the place smelled of honey.  Stopping to ponder for a moment upon the uses, industrial and otherwise, to which we may come at last, this man said he had no doubt there was a great deal of honey there, for those bees had been there a very long time, and the place had never been opened, all of which was evidently true.  But by and by some of the more pugnacious of them began to object to our presence, and I was forced to hurriedly depart.  Then my chaperone said they never stung <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
145.sgm:; he had once taken three dollars' worth of honey out of that place and escaped free.  At that moment his attention seemed to be violently attracted to a spot on the back of his neck, beneath a dilapidated blue neck-tie he wore without any collar, and he hurridly went away through the tall mustard-plants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:which overgrew the place, and I had no further reliable information from him.</p><P>Looking very old, but partially repaired into shabbiness, San Gabriel shows the least signs of its former importance and great wealth of any of the California missions.  The walls and arches of the quadrangle are entirely gone.  There is not a sign of the rows of cloisters.  The remains of gardens and fountains have been obliterated.  The church has no transept, and is but an oblong building of an aspect not particularly imposing.  If it had towers they were small, for the wall shows neither angles nor greater thickness where they would have been.  Perhaps architectural beauty was not intended, for the Roman arches are all wanting, and as a peculiarity not noticed in most others, the outer walls are buttressed to the eaves.  I looked longer at a little outside balcony near one end of the building than at any other single feature, for it seemed quite without any religious purpose.  It was a narrow structure, railed neatly with iron, shadowed by an immemorial pepper-tree, and the steps close beside the wall by which it was reached were deeply worn.  Perhaps it was the entrance to the organ-loft, or only an architectural caprice; perhaps a place whence the Spanish recreations of those days could be conveniently overlooked.  For San Gabriel had an extensive and famous bull-ring in its time, and while bull-fights may not have been directly favored by the Franciscans, we must not forget that they were Spaniards, and there was never one of that blood whose soul was proof against the national pastime.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>The mission was also an extensive manufactory.  In the very yard, quite close to the church-walls, are still to be seen the remains of the huge furnaces and cauldrons where they tried tallow and made soap.  Something is there also, now filled with earth and almost enigmatic, which looks like the pit of an ancient water-mill.  Outside, across the road, and by me found by chance, are the remains of a huge cement water-main.  It is laid above ground entirely, and being some four feet wide and deep; conveyed a torrent.  Perhaps nothing could recall so vividly the old and prosperous Saturnian days as to imagine this aqueduct brim-full through the midst of the shining valley.  It seems indicative of the utter passing away of all these early blessings to see that the railroad, when it was built, cut it square across.  There is water yet, but it comes in iron pipes.  There is a hydrant at the corner of the old church, and cocks and troughs in the village street.  They do not change its sleepiness in the least; it is only incongruous.  It was better when it splashed and foamed, and ran in rills down the village street, and was played in by the urchins, and when the Indian girls went to the fountain with tall pitchers on their shoulders, and it followed the hoes of the Indian laborers over the low fields.  In those days water was as precious as in Biblical days it was in Palestine, and, as in Palestine, wherever it ran, the land flowed with milk and honey, and there was happiness unalloyed by investment; peace undisturbed by the price of land; security that knew no margins; sunny years that heard no booms.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>There is a cemetery.  Its principal feature is dilapidation.  This is about all that in these times any mission graveyard ever indicates.  No graves are visible there which extol in stately Latin the virtues of either convert or friar.  Those are sunken, gone, ploughed over, utterly lost.  The oldest part of this has been utilized for the practical purpose of raising oranges.  That which is not so old, is a couple of acres of wooden crosses, all modern, but all dilapidated, with here and there a memorial of white marble.  One of these says of the sleepers, "Requies <HI REND="italics">cant</HI>
145.sgm: in Pace," and adds another unintended item to a long line of tombstone pleasantries.  A brick mausoleum near a corner of the church, seemingly old, has been broken and rifled, and nobody knows why or when.  Nobody cares.  <HI REND="italics">Camp Santo</HI>
145.sgm:, sprinkled with holy water, and the dedicated resting place of believers only, seems in all Catholic countries to be inconsistently neglected.</p><P>There are only four bells at San Gabriel, though there are hanging-places for five.  Thereby, of course, hangs a romance.  There was a sen&tilde;orita in old Mexico, name and date given more or less, but unimportant, who had a lover.  He came north and died.  In the course of masses for his soul's repose, the young lady sent to this mission a beautiful and costly bell.  For a long time it hung in its niche and rang the faithful to prayers, and was one of the institutions of the place.  Finally it disappeared, and there are those who say that it was taken down when sequestration came, and was returned to its donor.  But a grizzled American says, in his practical way, "It aint best to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:believe that yarn.  There was thought to be considerable silver in that bell, and some priest or other, don't know who, sold it.  That's all."  You will always find some member of this prosaic race on hand to destroy romances, little and big, and some of them are able to bring forward the most disagreeable and inconsistent conclusions.</p><P>One of these came within my ken as I sat in the shade at the street corner.  He was a young man with an old face and a gray head, friendly and hilarious, talking Spanish to all comers, and evidently a man of the country.  He addressed me in English, with a strong Southern inflection, and we entered into conversation.  He told me he came to San Gabriel in '49, when a boy, and had known the last days of the remaining Franciscans.  I hinted that I should like to hear about the old times.  He said "there is nothing to tell; I can put it all into two sentences."  I asked him to do so, and his reply was that they came, had any number of Indians to work for them, it was a good country, they grew rich, and when the Mexican government took their lands from them, they went away angry.</p><P>This succinct summary of the situation seemed to him a very full one, but I remained unsatisfied.  Insisting upon further particulars, he told me there were some 2,000 Indians here in 1849, all of them having been connected in some way with the industrial operations of the missions--ranches, herds, fields, factories, etc.  "In plain English," I said, "kindly answer for me one question.  Were, or were not these Indians slaves?"</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>The reader is aware that this question has been much discussed, and that no one seems to quite understand the peculiar and unique situation that is perhaps quite without a parallel in the long story of the contact of the European with the Aborigine on this continent.  These California Indians lived toilsome and patient lives, and did an immense work.  They had never worked before, and were reputed the most extraordinarily shiftless of all Indians.  Why did they?  Enthusiasm; readiness to believe only the good and reject the unpleasant; admiration for the heroism of those fathers who came first;--these do not answer the question.</p><P>My new friend had told me that he came from a slave State.  That he need not have done, for he spoke English with that accent no ear can fail to recognize.  Knowing him but ten minutes, I still knew he would speak truth if he answered at all, for it was in his demeanor and the general look of him.  Many times and in various forms, I had asked, or hinted, the same question.  Elderly "Californians"--as the California Spaniard is always called--have described to me at length the life of the missions as they had partly seen it and partly heard of it, and in effect have almost invariably led me to the conclusion of serfdom; of at least that form of feudalism which makes its toilers slaves under a politer name.  Then when I would finally say "well, they were slaves then, were they not?" they would protest with an endless procession of vehement "no's."</p><P>He looked at me a moment doubtfully, seeming to enquire my motive in the question, and then, perhaps <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:remembering that the question of slavery everywhere is a thing of the past, slowly answered, "Well, yes, that's just about what they were.  They got no wages and they made 'em work like the d--l.  What else would you call it?"</p><P>"How can you make an Indian work?" I said.</p><P>"Well, I think they scared 'em into it;--told 'em they'd go straight to hell if they didn't, and made 'em believe it.  Oh, they do that with others than Indians."  This last significant remark seemed to be in the nature of supplementary proof, and I pursued the subject no further.  But I bethought me of Father Serra's own story of the marvelous efficiency of one of his sacerdotal banners, that had upon one side a picture of the Virgin and upon the other a realistic representation of the old-fashioned Hades.  I knew also that a coercion unto godliness by a means not very dissimilar to that of the Padres had been practised by the church of my forefathers, and mine, for many generations.  But the shrewd notion of these missionaries in turning the powers of which they had control into a means of coercion to field labor, was a view of the case quite new to me.</p><P>I asked my friend what became of the Indians, and he answered in the same old comprehensive way; he said they "died off."  I always asked this question when I could find opportunity.  I wished to know whether there would ever be any variation in the answer.  If there had been, I should have concluded that my fate had changed, and that very likely something starling would soon occur to vary the monotony of my placid days.  There was a cause for this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:Indian fatality, and a study of it leads to some conclusions not usually much dwelt upon by the average philanthropist and enthusiast.  Least of anywhere is it cared about in California.  They are gone.  The past is accepted with unanimity and composure.  But it is a part of the great Indian question of this continent, which for a century has been an illustration of the ancient story of the two knights who saw the shield from opposite sides.</p><P>My friend declared that he had no business, never had had any, and was not looking for any, and intimated that this was not unusual in San Gabriel in his day, or even now.  Whereupon I ventured to enquire whether the Californians, i.e., Spanish, population were increasing or the contrary.  He gave it as his opinion that they were not.  Upon my asking why, he gave me another comprehensive answer comprised in the words, "Well, they don't amount to much."  By this he meant that they were not fitted for competitive life with the Americans, and were being pushed to one side.  He told me presently, with some feeling, that his wife had been a Californian, that he had always been with them and knew them well, and that the present conditions in California were not understood by them.  Every one of them could have been wealthy; few of them are.  Beyond certain limits and restrictions no Spaniard will ever go.  "I am not so very old," he said, "not so old as I look, but I should not be surprised to see almost the last of them myself."</p><P>He arose and went whistling away, followed by some half-dozen little brown-faced boys, who pulled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:him by the skirts of his coat, and clung to him by every available portion of his person.  They were saying something about going fishing, and he made several solemn promises to them on that subject while still in my hearing.  A man whom the boys love is never a fool, is almost invariably a gentleman in his nature, and may be counted upon to say truth if anything.  But he may be such an one as Irving has immortalized.  In a corner as quiet and almost as quaint, surrounded by every inducement to idleness with few of its penalties, brooded over by tradition and sunshine, surrounded by mountains ruggeder and bluer than the Catskills, I think I have encountered the Rip Van Winkle of San Gabriel.  But this man owned a horse and buggy, into which he managed to climb with as many boys besides as would have made a coach-full.  Perhaps he owned a rancho, and I believe he did.  He was Rip, but of the California variety.  Onions and cabbages were the products of the country of the first.  Here, a hundred feet away, the water was foaming out of the throat of an iron pipe, and running away in black and shining furrows beneath long rows of orange trees, and vindictively nibbling at the bare feet of the laborers who coaxed it hither and thither with shining hoes.</p><P>After he was gone, and I had nothing with me on the sunny corner to console myself withal, I began to think of what had come to the sons of the virile <HI REND="italics">conquistadores</HI>
145.sgm: who had once laid half a world under tribute to <HI REND="italics">Espan&tilde;a Madre</HI>
145.sgm:, that they should come next after the miserable "Digger" in their chance of early extinction.  They are not heathens, and have not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:been since the names "Goth" and "Vandal" became familiar in all the ancient stories of valor in war and strength in peace, or Alaric closed his palm upon the beauty and strength of classic Rome, and something of a solution of the question came to me at the moment.  Of the four village corners I have mentioned, three bore on the fronts that strange and odious tergiversation to which our American eyes are so accustomed that it has ceased of itself to disgust us --the word "Saloon."  Perhaps even the fourth one was of similar character, and lacked only the name; --four small-sized gin mills facing each other in a village, which but for them might seem a corner of Arcadia, the home of simplicity and peace.  I could hear the tipsy Spanish voices within trying to sing "La Golondrina," but so maudlinly that it might have been a Comanche chant.  Spoiled by the toilless traditions of their ancestors, lured by the modern price of ranch-lands and deceived by the blandishments of a climate that robs poverty of half its terror, the native Californian is drinking himself into that imbecility which presages extermination.  It is not alone at San Gabriel that the grusome process goes on.  Every isolated village, every shearer's camp, has its continuous orgies.  It is not with wine.  The Spaniards have crushed and drunk the red blood of the grape for ages, and if it has poisoned them they have been very slow in dying.  It is the rampant fluid known as American whisky whose seductions he has learned and whose death he tastes.</p><P>The contrast to this, in the same sunny region, is the slant-eyed Mongolian.  A dim suspicion must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:sometimes find lodgment in the mind of every visitor that this shrewd and toiling economist, this Asiatic sphinx, may sometime come forward not as a claimant, but as an actual holder of the lion's share.  He may do everything else, and he can and still survive, but he does not drink.  A moment after the saloon idea had dawned upon me, I found this same Chinaman having it quite his own way, fearless of any municipal discouragement.  From an adobe a little way down the shady street I heard a sound that was dimly like the cackling of hens, mingled occasionally with a little human screech of triumph and exultation.  John was at it; a dozen of him.  They sat on either side of a long laundry-board, and the game they played I could not understand, and rather than disturb a national amusement, which had also the effect of lighting for the first time for me the stolid face of a Chinaman, I did not linger long in the doorway.</p><P>For a unique mingling of some of the most diverse sensations of life, commend me to the village of San Gabriel, Archangel.  Call it Gab- <HI REND="italics">rail</HI>
145.sgm:, as was intended by its founders, or what you will, you will not find its equal for many a league.  It stands in the midst of the most fertile plain of a land whose barrenness and whose fertility, lying side by side, have given rise to two distinct opinions, alternately in the majority for fifty years.  Looking out of its embowerment, mountains fence it on every hand, and shimmering in changeless summer itself, a huge patch of white snow looks down on it in June.  For a hundred and twenty years its drowsy ears have listened to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:clangor of its mission bells, and until times that must seem to it exceeding new, it has been accustomed to scenes foreign and transplanted; pictures out of the common life of Spain.  It is still older than these, for here stood that group of booths and huts the invaders called a <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
145.sgm:, and here have lived and died the dusky generations of whose history or times or thoughts there has been left us not a word or an indication.  Surrounded now by all that is new, by the improvements of the world's most restless denizens, by a skill that accomplishes in a single year the results of a Spanish century and an Italian eternity, it is still San Gabriel, abiding in a peace that is held about it by a spell.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.<LB>SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P>BY no possibility could any little chamber be more gloomy, unfurnished, generally dilapidated and desolate.  A battered old pine table stood in the middle of the floor, and beside it a mended chair.  Another, with a rawhide bottom, stood beside the door.  There was no whole glass in the one window, and so the shutters were closed.  An old and worn black priest's coat hung against the wall, and the cheapest variety of cotton umbrella leaned beside it.  An ecclesiastical book lay on the table where it had last been used, and close beside it a pair of steel-bound spectacles.  The only sign of creature comfort, the one human weakness of the place, was a little bag of cheap tobacco and a wooden pipe that lay beside the spectacles and the book.</p><P>Dust, the dust of years, decay, forgetfulness, decrepitude, was everywhere.  It filled the spaces of the cracked red tiles of the floor, and lay thick on the wide old window ledge.  It had flown upward and perched on the beams of the ceiling.  If one had swept it away it would only have alighted again, for it belonged there, a part of the material of the place.  Some of it was the excret&aelig; of generations of insects, and some of it was composed of their powdered wings and heads and legs.  Some again was vegetable; the microscopic cosmos that could tell of fungi and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:lichens; of every minute growth of beam and rafter the dry, bright air could nourish.</p><P>On one side was a little fire-place; the incongruous thing of a land where, winter or summer, the great sun warms the world unfailingly, yet where it is often cold.  It was doubtless in its day good for old bones and slow blood when the white sea-mist would come creeping up the narrow valley before the early mass.  It was black with a hard and ancient soot, but it had been long since a fire had crackled there.  There was a picture on the wall.  I do not remember of what, but it was of something sacred, and it was very cheap.  Perhaps, as was fitting, it was the Mother of Sorrows, looking upward, a lithographic sadness in her pleading eyes, and a hand, with a ring on the finger, laid upon her heart.  But I know that the stains of time ran obliquely across her face, and that it hung crookedly upon the wall.</p><P>There was little else.  You could observe the yellow glint of sunshine through the wide cracks of the opposited unopened door; the door that had once opened upon a huge square that was edged with cloisters; that was full of dark-faced people; that was set with fountains, and crossed by walks, and studded with flowers.  Its huge outline was there still, and on two sides still ran the pillared arches that had supported the roof of a porch about sixteen hundred feet long.  Opposite every arch had been the low door of a monk's room; his cloister, where he had meditated upon the evanescence of all earthly things, and had told his beads, and had lain upon his uncurtained cot and slept as men do to whom the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:Church alone is infancy and motherhood and livelihood and care and love.  The roof was gone, and the long rows of arches stood alone.  Some of them were broken off in the middle, and the half-arch still hung there, uncracked, sustained by a singular tenacity of material.  Where yet the red floor-tiles remained beneath them, beside this little back-door of the priest's room, they were worn by the going to and fro of feet that have been dust this seventy years and more, that had had errands from this cloistered square to the outer world; that were bare or clad only in sandals, and that mayhap had trod the thorny road from Vera Cruz to the City of Mexico, from Mexico to Guadalaxara, and then to San Diego, in ceaseless and toilsome crossings of an unknown desert, and thence to this sunny spot where rose the now fallen towers of the mission of the soldier-monk, San Juan Capistrano.</p><P>Beside the little chamber I have described, once, perhaps the public office or business-room of the mission, there was another, the bedroom.  It was stiller and darker and sadder than the first.  There was nothing there but a single bed, and loneliness and poverty.  But it is not a place of ghosts, or else priests do not believe in ghosts.  For I saw the place that night, as its broken arches shone in white moonlight at the end of the village street.  I knew that old graves lay thick behind the church, all ivy-grown and all unmarked, and that there were memories and reminiscences in every nook and cranny.  The aged priest may have been asleep there, alone and unattended in a little den surrounded by crumbling ruins, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:but ghostly visitors do not disturb his slumbers.  So idle, so tenantless, so out of keeping with the spirit of these times are these moonlit ruins, that even the ghosts have forsaken them.</p><P>Just in front, in a porch whereof the roof is still intact, there is an old wooden settee, smooth with age and innumerable sittings upon it.  This fronts the world and the public; the world and the public of the old times; and there sitting, I tried to recall those days.  It were hard to do without imagining myself also a Franciscan, which God wot I am not, and I had ill success.  But down through the narrow valley--where runs a railroad now--I could see the shining sea.  A faint black smoke hung trailing on the horizon where a steamer was passing.  I thought it well enough that things should end when their time came.  For had the towers never fallen; had the angelus bells been pealing across the yellow hills; had the fair church whose whole interior now lay open to the sky been full of dusky worshipers; had a brown robed Franciscan sat beside me; I should have known by the smoke of the steamer and the distant scream of the train that that hour had arrived.  The curious thing; the pathetic and unjoyous reflection; is, after all, of so much wasted toil and tears and hope and faith.  That is what it amounts to.  The eternal church and living faith, sole owner of a beautiful and isolated world; rich, powerful, successful beyond hope in the beginning, could stand but eighty years.  The babe who saw the beginning lived unto the very end.  The people who came with her, and the Indians she converted, are gone as well.  Here and there one sees a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:brown face; here and there hears the old tongue; once in a day, or a week, may encounter a laborer whom he knows to be an unmixed descendant of those amiable aborigines whose benighted lives stirred the soul of old Serra.  If secularization had never taken place, if the Pious Fund had been piously regarded until now, if the presidios had paid their debts, if the enormous landed holdings had been left to the course of nature and law, all would long since have given way before that advent which is the opposite of that upon which the church is founded.  This aged priest lives alone amid the fallen stones his brethren laid.  The roof of his chapel is propped with a post.  His coat is old, his vestments tarnished and shabby.  He has reminiscences for his friends, and is otherwise quite deserted.  Some lone devotee may now and then come and bow in succession to the faded Stations of the Cross that hang on the mouldy walls of what was once a mission granary.  Some contrite soul may at long intervals come and whisper its sins to him through the rusty perforations of the worn and worm-eaten old confessional.  A few may gather to hear the mass whose bells are still rung on the ancient wheel whose rude circumference they rim, and whose iron crank was once whirled by an Indian boy at the elevation of the host.  The mission is fortunate, for at most there is no priest at all.  Here he serves, in faith, patience and old age, to mark for the wandering and irreverent American, and with singular emphasis, the difference between Then and Now.</p><P>There is a quiet beauty often hovering over decay and ruin, and no locality is so subject to such a spell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:as an old church.  So to the average American, who came to heal his lung or his fortune, who considers only climate and existing facilities for irrigation, who is thinking only of the exigent and emphatic now, perhaps a California mission bears a strong resemblance to any decrepit structure, say a dilapidated barn.  Another is given to reflections upon the temporal sagacity of the Padres, of whom he makes the old averment that they never got into a poor locality.  A third merely looks and passes on, unable to rightly comprehend the meaning of a memento or a monument.  He says it is of the past, the "dead" past, and thereupon, if he knows any poetry at all, he quotes Longfellow on that point.  Such an one sees nothing but grass and rocks and rolling hills at the field of Gettysburg, nothing but a whimsical piece of industry in the bronze and homely face of Lincoln where he stands in a Chicago park, nothing but fact anywhere --the fact which is of the present, and which concerns him alone.</p><P>By ascending a rickety stairs you may find all that is left of the library of the mission and monastery of San Juan Capistrano.  Hardly is it a stairs at all, but a compromise upon a ladder, and the steps are so steep that the rise has been notched to slant inward, after the fashion of the teeth of a saw.  There are books; the books of a time when the art of the printer flourished, but the binder had not acquired his modern cheap facility.  Nearly all are bound in parchment; what we would call rawhide; and are of a kind that will bear much thumbing.  The Spanish and the Latin prevail in this assortment.  There is not a volume in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:English tongue, or of a date later than Seventeen-Hundred-and-Something.  Many of them are in manuscript, written with a quill upon the old-fashioned unruled foolscap that everybody uses in Spain to this day.  The monks were good penmen, and the ink was very black.  You will encounter here a record of "Matrimonios," the dedicatory first page of which was written and signed by Junipero Serra himself.  He was seventy years old when he wrote it, and yet it would stand for a fine quaint specimen of pen-and-ink engraving.  There is another old volume of exercises, a prayer-service for every day in the year, which is handsomely printed in red-and-black, and was furnished with metal clasps.  This book is thicker than it is long or wide, and is the quaintest thing in the collection.  You may take it in your hand with a smile at its clumsiness, but you remember that it was a thing of personal use under all the circumstances of those times.  The edges of the leaves have been thumbed and turned until they are worn into notches.  Certain favorite pages are covered with an ancient gum which obscures the type, and which is all that is left of the personality of whoever it was that carried it in the fold of his habit, and whispered its prayers to himself in the shade of the live oaks, and turned to it for spiritual food when his bodily stomach was empty.  Perhaps it figured in some of those graphic episodes vaguely hinted at in the sparse records it was thought worth while to make.  It may have been at Monterey under the oak.  Perhaps it was at San Diego when, amid the dying and the dead, that first mass was said.  Perhaps it was at San Gabriel when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:wrath was turned to adoration.  One can only vaguely regret, for the thousandth time, that the secrets of the dead, and what the dead leave behind them, can never be told.</p><P>Curious things are the primers; the little books of exercises; of the Indian children.  They made them as they came to them --out of rawhide.  One or two of them were not lost or torn up, and lie here.  Hardly less interesting are sundry long Latin essays written by some sophomoric monk who fed his mind on the silence of the wilderness, and did something for the enlightenment of future ages; for the perusal of a wanderer by rail who casually picks up his essay, divines that it is in Latin, wonders at the interminable length of it, whispers to himself, "Tu Tityre recubans," etc., blows some of the dust off the sheep-skin cover from mere force of habit, and lays it down again.</p><P>But this squalid little dusty chamber was not the library at all.  It is like all the rest; a mere modern makeshift.  On three or four old shelves the books lie piled, and some of them are on the floor, or over on the window ledge, where they keep company with a dozen empty wine bottles.  And there is one strange thing.  The Padres were not making history, or lending any assistance whatever to that interesting process.  In all this heap of quaint volumes there is nothing like a daily record, a diary, a bit of description, a fragmentary record of the experiences of one man.  No one knows precisely, or by more than a guess, what the real life of the missions was, how many Indians there were, what variety of humanity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:they represented, what anybody did, or said, or thought.  Every fact has been gathered by inference or from outside sources, by whosoever has attempted the slightest sketch of those interesting times.  An enormous work was accomplished, industrially if not religiously.  A form of the commune was established which seems to have more than realized all modern isms and ideas of that form of political and industrial life.  For fifty years of the life of the missions it is impossible to conceive of the situation as other than a patriarchal form of Indian slavery, but slavery nevertheless.  Yet no man knows if it was really so, and even this prominent feature remains disputed and unsettled.  Toils and perils the Padres had, innumerable from the nature of the case, and often insurmountable.  There is no complaining record to tell the story.  The secrets of aboriginal life, the motives and desires and cunningness of the barbarian mind, were all laid open.  The Franciscans knew them; there is not a word to tell of them.  So nearly obliterated are all the details that the building of nineteen missions, the raising of the stately and beautiful establishments for each one, the bringing under cultivation of thousands of fruitful acres, the magic coaxing of running water over miles of arid rock and sand to make vineyards and rose-gardens and orchards, the governing and administration of all through many years, the wealth acquired and the trade established, and finally, the sudden fall, the broken-hearted abandonment and complete decay of all; --the whole story --seems like a tale that is not told; a vision of the night.  Perhaps no scheme of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:conquest was ever so successful, and save a single uprising at San Diego which was forgiven and unavenged, there was no blood shed through it all.  There were soldiers, but they were few, undisciplined and far between.  There were civil magistrates, but they lacked all physical power to enforce.  Either the Indians of California, speaking different languages and not all alike, were the most docile savages the <illus entity="a145-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A DILAPIDATED CORNER.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:world has ever known, or Catholic and Protestant alike may turn to the scant record of those missions as a singular example of the power of the Cross, and of the success of those who "endure all things" for the love of Him who patiently endured as an example to whosever would conquer in His name.  Whether it be so or not, there is no narrative to explain.  The pioneer of forty years ago knew as much as we do now, and no more.  Two generations have passed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:The Indians are gone, and the oldest inhabitant can not explain whither.  It is a lost civilization.</p><P>But if one will be patient, and will sit down beside the ruins of Capistrano, or San Luis Rey de Francia, or Gabriel, or any picturesque memento of them all, and will dismiss the world and the flesh, he may get himself into a mood for dimly understanding.  Here, where we are sitting now, the Padres came at eventide, and looked through the canyon upon the sea, and gossipped as priests, like other men, occasionally will.  It was the half of an open square.  There was a rail in front to which visitors tied their horses, and the general gossip of the community went on as it must in every association formed by men.  The reader will kindly remember that these holy men were also Spaniards, also that the cigarette is an ancient Spanish institution, to the benign and consolatory influences of which the priesthood has ever been amenable.  The world belies them greatly or else monks, even Franciscans, are jolly.  These men were pleased.  Their lines had fallen in places so pleasant that everyone has been pleased ever since.  It was the land of oil and wine.  Their granaries and casks were full.  Their dusky neophytes numbered thousands, and the ideal kingdom of Faith was established permanently.  One could almost wish that such had actually, as it was apparently in those pleasant days, been the case, and that one had been there to see what now is a picture only to be recalled by such vain imaginings as these.</p><P>A semi-savage origin is traceable in all one sees.  The long rows of arches are stately only after a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:barbaric fashion, wonderful as they are for the time and circumstances of their construction, and picturesque because proclaiming Spain in miniature, and coming by a wonderfully long road from Palestine itself.  But they are not precisely alike.  The hand of the Indian is visible in their curves.  Some are longer than their fellows by a finger's breadth, and some are slightly higher in the bend.  Among the red tiles of the pillars some are thick and some are thin.  Symmetry, either of material or of architecture, is not to be expected of the savage of any race, and for all the purposes of picturesque decay the result answers quite as well.</p><P>On the left hand, at the corner of the square, stood the church itself.  No Protestant sanctuary in America, roofless for fifty years, would look as well.  The walls are nearly five feet thick, not of squared blocks of solid stone, yet where standing at all almost uncracked.  The chancel and its roof are still intact, showing all the proportions that for their uses were well nigh perfect.  To be entirely in keeping, there is under the round flat dome, and amid the ashes of the past, an open grave.  What father's bones were disturbed by this useless sacrilege no one knows, and there were but bones to reward the delver's search.  Serra was buried in the chancel at San Carlos, of Monterey.  Some brother, whose name has not descended, and honored only less than his superior, lay here.</p><P>There are graves enough, and all unmarked.  The little square behind the church is full of them, and in a little corner are two or three whose low stucco <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:mounds, covered with trailing vines, have been basking places for the lizards from time immemorial.  A yellow-eyed brown bird was there, interested in the gruesome corner to the extent of scolding vociferously at the most distant intrusion.  To be entirely in keeping with surroundings there was also there a skull.  It was so huge that it was made to form a part of the flimsy fence that ran partly across to hedge in with some lazy show of care a nameless resting place.  It was not a man's, but doubtless one of the few remaining mementos of their times, showing at least the cranial conformation of the mission ox.  The bases of the horns, decayed and shrunken as they were, measured nearly eleven inches round.</p><P>All the ridge upon which the mission stands is covered with the remains of the establishment, and it was by no means one of the most extensive.  There is a tradition that adobe is more lasting than stone, and that rawhide will endure longer than either, and these buildings were of the sun-dried bricks, whose permanency surprises every stranger.  On the right of the entrance, where, in imagination, we have been sitting while the western sun went down into the sea, was the kitchen.  The old oil-mill, its stone still in place, and the rawhide thongs which held its cross beam to the uprights still hanging shrunken to the wood, is there now.  There is a disposition always to try to imagine, to dimly recall, the industrial occupations of any period to which our own appears a striking contrast.  A man would be justified in searching all Spain for a barber's basin such as Don <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:Quixote mistakenly adopted as a helmet, and if we pry into the culinary establishment the Padres found sustenance in, we do but add a supplement to romance.  But there is no guess to be made.  There are only blackened walls to show the uses that are gone, and the faintest odor of garlic, even of that, has been wafted down the years.  But there is the stable, somewhat useful to this day, and one gazes with interest at the wooden manger-bars between which the asses of those times pushed their mottled noses, and even at the square mounds, rising even now some three feet above the common earth, which show where once the goats and kine passed their ruminative nights.</p><P>And there was a dungeon.  Whether for priests or converts, it is certain that the most virtuous community never yet existed long without one.  It was a room behind the church, whose only openings are a door, still barred, and one square window, high up and closed with a solid shutter.  Within the recollection of elder residents, there were stocks there; the ancient and effective machine which shut down upon the prisoner's members, and gave him a seat whose hardness was conducive to painful reflection upon the evil of his ways.  It were a wonder if such simple means were all that were needed for the discipline of the barbaric majority, and, if true, one could heartily wish that the climate had the same effect upon a later generation.</p><P>The professional anatomist pieces together from scales, or wing-feathers, or claws, or thigh-bones, the monsters of the Paleosaurian age, and gives to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:world the plaster-casts of creatures beyond reason or belief by the citizens of a later time.  There may have been, and doubtless were, features of mission life incredible in these times, and the process of discovering them is similar to that of the anatomists.  But they are human traits, and in trying to recall them, it is necessary to remember that men are governed almost entirely by the times in which they live.  Here was practical socialism without a theory.  Here was the Church without a doubt.  Both things are now impossible, and these ruins are mementos of a time when they were possible.  The church of the Franciscans in California was a direct importation, in an age of profound belief, of the church of Spain.  The church in Spain is the same as that of other Catholic countries, and yet it is not.  To this day there is a difference below the surface.  Perhaps the undefined thing which we can not understand about these missions is the secret of their great success, combined with that of their total failure.  As one wanders about the ruins he is continually turning this question over.  But the answer does not come unless it be in the form of a theory that the time permitted them, and that such time has passed.  For the machinery was not different from that used everywhere by the same sect for the same purposes.  Some of it is here still.  The little chapel that was a granary, whose sagging roof is propped with a post, is full of it, all dating back to the old times.  The pictures on the walls are dim and blurred with time.  The linen which serves as a base for embroideries seems to have come, and very likely did come, among the ecclesiastical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:stores provided by Galvez, a hundred and twenty-five years ago.  In a little mouldy room at one side are some wooden statues about half life-size.  They are sometimes headless and often want fingers, but are fine specimens of an art which is now, in its perfection, among the lost ones.  The wood of the faces and hands is covered with a composition that has retained its finish and color through all the years, and the eyes are of glass, and as perfectly made and preserved as those are which are now used in the arts which require them.</p><P>Another small closet contains some curious ecclesiastical machinery.  There is a board with a hold at one end shaped like the handle of a saw.  The sides of it are studded lengthwise with iron grips precisely like those our forefathers used for the end-handles of the hair trunks of their days.  Take this machine up and twist it vigorously from side to side, and you will be startled at its capacity for that kind of noise which is known in the vernacular as a racket.  Another ingenious contrivance for the same general purpose is a three-cornered box, studded with swinging irons like the other, but inside of which there could also be rattled with telling effect a loose stone.  These machines figured in the Good Friday processions familiar to all who have lived in Mexico or Spain, and serve as an appeal to the sensibilities of the community at large.</p><P>An ingenious contrivance is a wheel whose rim is studded with little bells.  Turn it once over by the crank, and each bell falls over once and rings the particular key it happens to possess.  This stands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:behind the altar and marks a particular moment in the ritual.</p><P>And without these things this sanctuary would be poor indeed.  Roof, walls, rafters, pictures, bells, images, are all of the olden time.  There is nothing new.  The mighty Church whose property it is rises to success and wealth, or descends to poverty and isolation, with an evenness of demeanor and a steadfastness of purpose which commands the respect of the wide world.  The machinery of her elaborate <illus entity="a145-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CORRIDORS.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:ceremonial may be dispensed with.  Her missionaries have threaded first the intricacies of every wilderness solitude the continent knows, and where mass has once been said in a hut or tent, or beneath a spreading tree, the cathedral has afterwards arisen with unfailing certainty.  Only here has the process been reversed.  The cathedral has fallen, but the priest and the ritual survive.  I do not know if he believes its towers will ever rise again.  Perhaps he never questions, but to his mind must often occur the singularity of a situation perhaps quite without a parallel over so wide a country.  All the surroundings, the whole country, is historic from the efforts of his brethren of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:common faith, and in the midst of unexampled progress in every field but the religious one, he remains as a kind of memento of all that was, and remains alone.  I do not know his name; I never saw him; but in all my recollections of the sunny ruin by the sea, I find ihe humble and unknown man the most prominent figure.</p><P>The visitor to Capistrano will observe a curious architectural discrepancy.  A portion, almost one-half, of the ruined church is not of stone, but of adobe.  In other words, it has twice fallen and been once rebuilt.  An earthquake in 1812<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
145.sgm: was a very different thing from what the same event would be in 1889, hence it has but the semblance of a tradition.  It is not even known whether the rebuilding with adobe was ever entirely completed, and the observer would say that it probably was not.  For on the gray stone walls, still erect and uncracked, the rampant winter vegetation of tropical California has gained a rooting, and will throw down stone after stone.  Where the adobe in its turn has melted down, there are vast ridges and mounds, covered shoulder-high with a miscellaneous growth of weeds.  There is a plant with clustering yellow blossoms whose roots would wedge apart a Roman battlement, which inserts itself in every crevice, and flaunts there above statueniche and grave, and flourishes upon air.  Studying such ruins, one can but think of the immense advantage accruing from the absence of frost.  It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:certain that but for this fortunate thing there would now be no missions at all; nothing but mounds of adobe and heaps of stone.  They are not solid walls.  Faced on each side, almost anything was thrown between.  Therefore the earthquake wrought havoc, and remedying the misfortune as best they might, the Padres committed the monstrosity of repairing masonry with the sun-dried bricks which latterly constituted one-half of the side walls, and the whole of the tower-end, of what had once been a most hand-somely-proportioned and elaborately-finished religious structure.<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
145.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">The earthquake which destroyed this most beautiful of the mission churches, occurred during early mass on December 8th, 1812.  Some thirty people were killed, and many others wounded more or less seriously.</NOTE>
145.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">The Church was built almost precisely like that of San Francisco Antiqua, in Guatemala, also an earthquake ruin, though not so large.  A series of low domes composed the roof, one of which yet remains over the chancel.</NOTE>
145.sgm:<P>The quaintness, to American eyes, of what remains can not well be put into words.  We never made anything like it, and never shall.  For with all our former flimsiness and present solidity; with all the money we have wasted or spent on Egyptian portals or Corinthian stucco; we have never, in a single instance, come as nearly as these missionary monks did to the filling of one great desideratum; the suiting of a building to the surrounding landscape.  It is an indefinable thing which can not be fixed by rules, and one does not know wherein precisely the appropriateness consists.  But it is present and apparent even in ruin and decay.  Take the sunshine, the gray-white sky, the yellow atmosphere and the rolling brown or green hills backed by higher ranges that are purple always, and imagine there a pile of American church architecture.  The one may fit a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:town--some towns--the other fits eternally its place among the fastnesses of a wilderness that can never be really changed by any effort of civilization.  Some, the majority perhaps, may wish to see relics and hunt decay.  But when you are gone again, if you have seen the country aright, your mental picture will be completest when you remember Capistrano sitting upon its knoll and looking down the glen to its speck of sky-blue sea, or San Diego at the valley edge asleep upon the shoulder of a hill, or San Luis Rey in its basin of sierras, trailing a green-and-yellow ribbon at its feet, or Gabriel amid its vineyards, drowsy with the fumes of wine, and each one will seem a thing that is a part of its natural surroundings, placed there by an ineffable and superhuman taste, and made to fit, with a preciseness that time has only mellowed and blended, all its settings.</p><P>This is for the present.  It is all one can carry away.  The cold tones of a photograph do but spoil the soul of the reality.  Colors might answer, but the artist has not yet come.  All the past is but a memory, and it is but memories that we purchase with a whole life's experiences.  There is still wanting something to complete the picture, and that something is beyond attainment.  It is described by the word Life.  For these things are, so to speak, preeminently dead.  Baalbeck is not more lifeless, or Tyre more perfectly a thing of the past.  But, with them, so is also the country dead, while with these it has put on the newness of a life beyond the wildest dreams of any monk who ever dreamed.  Set up again the walls, and rebuild the towers, and ring the bells.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:Cover the hills with herds and the valleys with vines.  Recall the hosts of Indians and banish the American.  Let the English tongue be again unheard, and put the railway so far away that even the village of Chicago, floundering in its swamp around a trading-post and a fort, knows it not.  Let the storm-worn ships from around the Horn prowl along the coast for their cargoes of hides, the only and the infrequent visitors from the intangible and unimportant world.  Bring again Spain, and make San Blas an important port and Guadalaxara a capital.  Take away Los Angeles, and give the little white-washed adobe pueblo in the valley her full name and her proper people.  Let only monks in robes and sandals, and soldiers in leathern jackets, and Indians bearing burdens, traverse the paths from mission to mission.  Let us speak only of Yerba Buena if we mean the locality of the Pacific capital, and mention only San Carlos if we mean Monterey.  Let a brown-walled rancho appear occasionally in the landscape, and let us make it the complete establishment of a feudalism almost unknown to the middle ages, perfect in independence, isolation and peace, the home of a life neither California nor elsewhere can ever know again.</p><P>And let us put in its last and important place the last essential thing; the confidence and self-satisfaction of provincialism, the unapprehensiveness of which ignorance is the sturdy mother.  Let us desire no change and dream of none, and live in confidence and peace, protected by the Virgin and the saints, and forget that this is America at all.  Then shall we have something like a memory of the California missions, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:not in decay and ruin, but in the days of their fruition and prosperity.  This is the real past of which they are the mementos.</p><P>Is it worth recalling?  This truly American query will be the first in the minds of the majority of those who will read these words.  There is a sense in which it is most assuredly not, and another in which a vague and undefined regret must surely follow any comparison of it with the California of today.  Arcadia was never a reality, yet in some of its forms it has burdened the poetry of every people, and been dreamed of and imagined since the infancy of the human race.  And of this idealism humanity has never grown weary.  There are few things worth striving for, but one of them is peace.  In the tiredness of a ceaseless struggle, there are few to whom has not come, or first or last, a fearful pleasure in the thought of that sleep which knows no human reveille, which lets the &aelig;ons pass, which lies forever in the deep oblivion of dust.  The peace which to some degree may come in life was never in this world nearer its idealization than at San Juan Capistrano three-fourths of a century ago.  It can not be put into words, or painted, or sent by mail, but something of it broods there still.  Men can not make it, or entirely destroy it.  It is in the air, and to supplement it and add to it, is the feeling that the past has not yet quite gone away.  The dust lies thick in the village street, and in it one almost looks to find the print of sandals.  Below the brow of a little hill a stream of water purls across the road, and there is a roadside hedge composed entirely of the odorous California wild rose.  In the shade of a walnut tree in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the field close by, there is a glint of rural calico, and a group of women are washing garments upon a flat stone beside the stream, as their grandmothers did in the same spot while the American revolution was in progress.  A rambling and roofless adobe is upon one side of the road, its brown walls defying time in a way that is the usual puzzle to all who believe in the natural course of things.  It has a little known history, wherein it differs from its neighbors that are much older, and were occupied as appurtenances of the mission establishment.  It was built by a man who came near embodying in California the traits of a race of Caballeros, who was almost the last of the long-sword gentlemen and fighters, and it cost him thirty-five thousand dollars.  He was of the same class and time of the man immortalized by Fremont in his story of the terrible little struggle known as the affair at San Pascual, and within these walls were nursed, by a woman, the wounded of that day.  Among them was one American soldier, whose name and whose grave are now alike unknown.  It is but another instance where "the northern eagle shining on his belt" did not make any difference, and where Ximena appears again from among the people whom we habitually designate as "Greasers."</p><P>At all events the ruins are there, telling the same story a broken monument does, and the hills, and the sea, and the sunshine.  They rule.  As to Irving and his reader the Moor and not the Spaniard still inhabits the Alhambra, so to every visitor does the robed and sandaled Franciscan still abide at San Juan.  The church has been once sold at auction, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:has been used as a residence, has been besieged, and has still clinging to its decay the monastic odor, the sense of belonging to God.  Defying time a faint blue fresco still clings to its inner walls, and even the names scratched upon it by frame-seeking wanderers does not make it less a place whence the odor of incense has scarcely yet departed.  The railway threads the valley, and one wishes it was not there, yet it does not so much affect the mission as it visibly does the old stage-yard down the street where, since early in the fifties, the reeking horses drank at the log trough under the huge pepper-tree, and whence the rocking vehicle, with infinite bustle and importance, carried its cramped passengers away again on a winding road between the endless hills.</p><P>Far up the little valley there is still older mission; the first San Juan, standing beside the trail of the Padres when they went northward in search of Monterey.  Near where a trail used by them of necessity, and many a time since, comes down out of the hills into the valley, there is a sycamore whose like will not be found in half a continent.  Its shade at noon will cover 120 feet.  It was as big, perhaps, a hundred years ago as it is now, and no band of weary footmen ever passed it by.  It recalls the vicissitudes of those early wanderings, and the solitude and silence that then shut in the Cross.  The little valley is as silent now as then, and all unchanged by the hand of man.  Only the sleek California cattle come and lie in the shade, careless of all the past and all that is to come.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>But even as I write I see before me the contrast and antithesis of all humility or toil or sacrifice for crown or cross.  I have heard in all the watches of the night a certain Voice, calling in utter wantonness the passing of the hours, and, if for prayer, utterly failing of so pious a purpose.  Its owner now lies prone in the morning sunshine, his gorgeous tail trailed out behind him, and his bronze breast in the yellow dust from which it will arise as unsullied as his notorious vanity is unruffled.  It is a being whom my reminiscences will ever designate as the Sultan of San Juan, and he is one of the striking trivialities of a place so full of opposite associations.  For him there are no reminiscences, unless his gorgeous egotism should congratulate itself upon a clime as winterless as that of his native land, and should imagine it to have been made for him alone.  And this he doubtless does, for even now he rises and utters that strident cry which I trust may yet bring his neck to the block, and walks with mincing steps away among his hens, and does it all with the insensate grandeur that not even humanity may share with him.  O, land of contrasts! San Gabriel and Los Angeles; the crumbling mission of San Juan and the obtrusive personality of a peacock.<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
145.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3"><P>Even so lately as a quarter of a century ago, there were at Capistrano extensive remains not now visible or known of.  The present village is honeycombed with covered masonry aqueducts.  Flumes were built across ravines on brick piers, after an ancient and substantial style now unknown.  These became quarries for the moderns.</p><P>There were also a large number of books, most of which have disappeared.  The church was rich in gold and silver vessels and ornaments, which were among the first articles to be found wanting.</p><P>The Franciscans, here and elsewhere, took, when they went, everything portable that was theirs, or that could be turned into money, without robbing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the parish of anything coming under that species of property.  Their successors do not seem to have been, some of them, even so conscientious as this.  The great wealth and splendor of the old times have thus been turned into a tawdriness and squalor that is striking.</p><P>There was also at Capistrano a quarter of a century ago four or five times the population of the present.  It was the stronghold of old customs and old ideas; one of the last in California.  What has become of these no one pretends to state in detail.  The American civilization has swept as with a besom.  Only the strongest survive it.  This passing away is one of the interesting California studies.</p><P>The church was deprived temporarily of its character before it became a parish ruin.  Bonsard, a pirate, with his crew once occupied it for three days, while priests and neophytes took refuge in the willows of Trabuco creek, and waited until his debauch upon mission beef and wine was over.  The same thing happened at Santa Barbara and Monterey.</p></NOTE>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.<LB>THE PEOPLE OF THE ADOBE.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P><illus entity="a145-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BETWEEN NEW AND OLD:--A CORNER IN LOS ANGELES.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:</p><P>A DISTINCT class of odors, sensations and impressions hang about every Spanish-American town.  Whether in New Mexico or California, they are so much the same, so nearly alike, that they would be recognizable to a blind man who had once learned to distinguish them.  Yet it is difficult to describe them with any hope of conveying a correct idea of what they are to him who covers all points with the undoubtedly true statement that a town is a collection of human habitations, and a city a bigger one, and there rests.</p><P>One of the strongest individualities on earth is the Spanish.  A man who never changes himself, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:impresses himself upon all his surroundings if they are of his own beginning.  It is not that he is strong, for he is entirely and invariably unable to resist, in this country, the ideas and encroachments of the Saxon.  He avoids, when he possibly can, the pain attendant upon the parturition of a new idea.  The things he knows he knows nationally, and his very individuality is a national one.  It is thus that amid all the newness of American life he retains his adobe corner unimpaired, alone, apart, separate, individualized.  It is so in Santa Fe&acute; or Albuquerque, in Las Vegas or El Paso, and so also in the obscure nook he still retains in the beautiful city which is, except in name, the very antipode of everything Spanish; in Los Angeles itself.</p><P>Perhaps it is in the mere brown fact of adobe alone, yet adobe is one of his few acquired ideas which has become second nature.  But it necessitates the thick walls, the small windows, the low doors, the single stories, the long porches, the sunken floors, always and everywhere generally characteristic of Spanish-American occupation.  The sturdy structures stand almost forever, and when abandoned by intention, sink back to earth again only with the passage of the centuries, and leave at last a long, low mound that will still proclaim a human use, still declare the nationality of him who made it regardless of all points of the compass and the symmetry of squares, convenient to a goat-path in front and a corral behind, and who lived in it as one does whose life might have originated the idea that has made immortal the masterpiece of Payne.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>Whoever would understand aught of those by-gone days which placed on this continent the quaintness of Spanish peasant life, must come quickly if he wishes to judge by that surest index, the homes of the people.  For the day of adobe occupation has gone by.  A rumbling tile factory and a yard of sun-dried bricks do not exist long side by side.  The age of cut stone and the age of dried mud do not pull along together.  The street that has a cable car-line is not now much traversed by strings of laden donkeys.  Only here and there is there a corner left, and, as an intermediary, the slant-eyed celestial has largely possessed himself of that, and Hop Sing and Yung Lee have hung upon the ancient walls their various signs of lavatory industry.  And this is the strangest thing of all; a wonder conspicuously left out of all the prophecies; that the inheritor of the hidalgo should be the peasant of Peking or Macao.  And, after the Chinaman, they are laid waste by time, or tumbled by spadefuls into carts, and the Spaniard and his belongings have said <HI REND="italics">adios</HI>
145.sgm: forever.  Nobody knows what he thinks about it, and no complaints have been recorded.  The closest questioning will not elicit his opinion or air his grievance.  The dignity of his famous race upholds him while all around him goes on the sequestration of his inheritance and the spoliation of his country.  For so it must seem to him.  The process he can neither prevent nor understand, is the contrivance of a people even to whose tongue he is a stranger, and to one of Spanish blood there can be nothing more foreign and incomprehensible than that American life to whose most natural processes he has become a victim.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>But while here and there an adobe yet stands back of the street front in Santa Barbara, or down by the old renovated and replastered sub-mission in Los Angeles, or in some obscure nook in a mountain valley where once was the outpost of a cattle-ranch, or roofless and tenantless in the shadow of a mission church, or as the home of contented poverty in the midst of a village garden, let us regard them as the indices of those days that were present only forty years ago, and which are now so far in a remote past that the amateur antiquarian has already begun to delve in them and misunderstand them.  One of these brown or intensely whitewashed structures standing alone is an architectural widow whose loneliness one must respect, but where two or three are gathered together the cluster at once begins to have a character.  And, to begin with, sunshine and adobes go together.  There must be lights and shadows, and open doors, and a continual going in and coming out.  Such a house with the door closed seems blind, and deaf and dumb as well.  It is a place which lacks all newness, and which has always that air of use and occupation which makes it human.  Somebody is always there, and always at leisure, and invariably producing the impression that time is not an object worthy of particular attention.  Perhaps it is a store, and has " <HI REND="italics">Tienda</HI>
145.sgm: " somewhere displayed upon its frontage.  But, if so, the proprietor is not engaged, and has no anxiety about customers and sales, and sits content upon a box and smokes cigarettes, and does not advertise.  But if it be a dwelling, there is always a woman there with a shawl over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:her head, and a black-eyed child clinging to her skirts.  The chances are largely in favor of a half-dozen others.  A childless adobe I have never seen.</p><P>Here, and in New and Old Mexico as well, there is a sign of nationality which may almost be regarded as a talisman.  It is a string of red peppers.  Where, strung upon a thread it hangs not upon the outer wall, there is something unquestionably wrong with the interior.  For pepper, and not garlic, is the sauce of life with the Spanish-American, and a more harmless dissipation it would be hard to find.  " <HI REND="italics">Chile</HI>
145.sgm:," or " <HI REND="italics">chile con carne</HI>
145.sgm:," comforts every simple life, and such lives are often drawn out to a good old age.</p><P>Save where some American has adopted the material and fashioned himself therefrom a house, I do not remember ever to have seen a new adobe.  Perhaps the Spaniard is, in his turn, of the opinion that he never saw an old American house, but, at least, that air of age and use he carries with him wherever he goes is inexplicable and indescribable.  All his domestic belongings partake of it.  His fence is old.  The path beside his door is worn, and the step of his threshold seems to have been trodden by the feet of generations.  The street in front of him may be clean, but it has the indescribable semblance of bearing the debris of centuries.  And there is a sensation that does not arise to the decided character of an aroma, which nevertheless belongs in that list.  It may be of the fuel he burns, mesquite or cedar, or a mingling of his cookery with the atmosphere, or his national smell.  The Indian has it, but his is distinct and of a flavor anciently oleaginous.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:emigrant-car possesses it, and it stays after the occupants have raised the first fruits off of pree&die;mpted land, and therewith purchased tickets for the remainder of their families to come over with.  Every occupation has it as a trade-mark, and every nationality carries it as an unconscious inheritance.  It has naught to do with cleanliness necessarily, and the American nose may with impunity only refer to it as one of the sensations of the Spanish occupancy, dim and faint, but there.</p><P>The cot and the palace of old California were alike of sun-dried bricks, and from them come indifferently the <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
145.sgm: and the millionaire.  San Francisco started so, and Los Angeles still shows some of her beginnings, and old San Diego is little else.  Sometimes the huge brown building rambled over an acre of ground, and was the clustering place of a host of dependents or the headquarters of a provincial community.  American statesmanship has been notoriously nurtured in log houses, and all that was good or strong in California came out of these thick, brown walls.  And there was such strength, mingled perhaps with a goodness which Americans do not appreciate, and which has long passed from human judgment and criticism.  They were practically an unarmed and pastoral people, taken by surprise in an outlying province, and unsupported by a near or respectable government.  Nobody cares now, not even the Spaniards, how California was won, and all the little battle-fields have perhaps been planted in oranges or their localities lost.  They could not read fate, and there was nothing else to read.  They did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:not know of the enormous odds against them, or understand that conspiracy of the centuries against all things Spanish.  They were not even that organized militia which is the ineffective show of defense.  There was no arsenal save the family powder-horn; there were no arms but antiquated fowling pieces <illus entity="a145-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OLD GATE OF THE GARDEN.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:and disabled blunderbusses.  No Californian could walk, or would, and they displayed only a force of free riders, armed with the <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
145.sgm:, or the home-made lance.  Yet they did fight.  Nineteen men at San Pascual out of twenty-three were killed with thrusts.  I know where there is a rust-eaten marine cutlas <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:which was picked up from where it had lain for a quarter of a century or more on the hills east of San Pedro.  Some wandering bull has set his hoof upon the grip and broken it, and the dew has eaten deep scars into the blade.  The national honor does not require, I think, that it should be denied that this old knife is the memento of a retreat which, though of no great moment considering the final result, at least actually occurred.  The men of the adobe, like those of the cabin and the clearing, have invariably been dangerous when aroused.  In this case the wonder is that they awoke at all, for, hating Americans as they might, and as they are reputed still to do, they could have no devoted love for Mexico.  A political and ecclesiastical orphan such as California was must make her own way.</p><P>As a specimen of the abnormal development of some of these children of the adobe, did the reader ever hear of one Flores?  It is not a pleasant or poetical reminiscence, for Flores merely showed one of the most ancient forms of Spanish wickedness.  He was a bandit, and terrorized a goodly portion of South California as late as 1858.  It was from his followers that Capistrano once withstood a siege.  Nobody knew when to look for him or where.  Commanding admiration after the old fashion of all times and countries, he had many friends, and it seems finally to have become a question of exterminating him or conceding the fact of his being the actual ruler of the country.</p><P>Going from Los Angeles to San Juan, a friend called my attention to a clump of trees growing in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:low place in a wide stretch of ranch-land.  "There," he said, "is the place where Flores ambushed and killed the Sheriff of Los Angeles county and his whole posse save one man."</p><P>I had not heard the story, nor would its details, or many glimpses of the life and adventures of the California bandit, probably interest-the reader.  But we had gone but a few miles further when another feature of the mountain landscape attracted my companion's attention and produced the sequel.  It was a countryman of Flores' and his vaqueros, and not the American civil authorities, who were alone useful in bringing the hero to his untimely end, and the man who did it was the principal figure, on the Californian side, of the battle of San Pascual; Don Andreas Pico.</p><P>Perhaps there were never two men who more perfectly illustrated the inherited types of old Spain than the man Flores and his mortal foe and final exterminator, Pico, bearing in mind the somewhat vivid distinction that the one was a professional murderer and the other a gentleman.  The enmity was not an actual or personal one, but grew out of the two opposing views of citizenship and law, and outlawry and plunder.  The old Californian was such a man as comes to the front in emergencies with that certain and untrained instinct of the soldier common to the caballero, and which enabled an adventurer to conquer Mexico and an unlettered goatherd to lay waste Peru.  A vaquero by training and life, and nothing more, he was a cavalryman by instinct, who would have been better suited to more stirring times.  The little California war was long since over and gone, its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:victims and its enmities alike buried and forgotten for more than ten years when the Flores era locally dawned.  The cowboys of San Pascual were still alive, and so was their leader, and they turned their attention to this marauding countryman.</p><P>Through the pass my friend pointed out to me they followed the gang, all one day and all the following night.  The cowboys knew the mountains better than the pursued, and smiled among themselves in knowing how much further the robbers could go, and no further, on the trail they had taken.  And when the <HI REND="italics">barranca</HI>
145.sgm: came, and there was neither crossing nor retreat, they took them all except Flores and one or two others.</p><P>Pico was a churchman.  He believed in all the dicta, and wished his fellow-sinners to have all the priestly consolation necessary to secure a favorable verdict when they were beyond his jurisdiction.  So he placed them under guard while he went in further pursuit, intending to take them to Los Angeles and bespeak the services of a priest, ere he should hang them.  But when he returned he found that some of them had escaped, and therefore he forget about the priest and the hereafter, and strung all the remainder, a riata to each, upon the nearest sizeable tree, and he and his vaqueros rode home again righteously content.</p><P>A compatriot and neighbor of Pico's has been referred to in another chapter, who was also a characteristic product of the adobe community.  He talked.  He could neither read nor write, but had he possessed these accomplishments he would have used <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:innumerable reams of paper, and assisted greatly in that official pen-and-ink garrulity for which his race is famous.  His friends would have done the fighting and he would have made the treaties, and probably making this mutual imaginary concession, they got on very well in the same region in hum-drum daily on very well in the same region in hum-drum daily life.  This last was also a caballero, perhaps an unconscious one, and born a whole age too late.  Having no education to begin with he proceeded to acquire one, and took an early opportunity of hiring a talented wanderer through the country to teach him to form his distinguished autograph, with a <HI REND="italics">rubrica</HI>
145.sgm:.  Thereafter the signing of his name was an important ceremony.  He would say " <HI REND="italics">Usted quiere mi firma</HI>
145.sgm:?" and when books and all other impedimenta had been duly carried away and the document spread before him, he would look upon it with a Quixotic frown, insert his goose-quill in the fatal fluid, and go through the whole of the "education" upon which he prided himself, with three quiddles, a long understroke and two dots, and the fateful deed was done.  It was entirely a mechanical accomplishment, for which he had paid the man who taught it to him a hundred heifer calves.  This unimportant incident in a provincial life may perhaps hardly amuse the reader who has little idea of the Spanish character, or who has read Cervantes but for the story of the infatuated Knight of La Mancha.</p><P>The original cowboy is a Californian and a nurseling of the adobe, and all his imitations are comparatively feeble.  And that also is in the race.  The word <HI REND="italics">caballero</HI>
145.sgm: means nothing more than one who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:rides, but it has meant "gentleman" for six hundred years.  Here is one who, without much use of hyperbole, may be said to have been born on horseback, and to have cantered as his last act.  His style of horsemanship is one born of necessity and long habit, and is totally distinct from that of the schools.  But all the real hard riding of America is done after his unconscious fashion; a fashion acquired only in <illus entity="a145-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MISSION BUILT OF ADOBE.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:youth, and impossible in ordinary life.  One may see him even in these degenerate days, wherever there are cattle on the hills, or a rambling ranch-house lingers superfluous in the land of booms.  Wherever he is, he will not walk, and even his going to bed is but an unnatural waddle.  Every day, all day, summer and winter, he is but a part of a horse.  And yet he is not an imposing centaur.  He will "stay" for endless miles; he is tireless in a proverbially hard life; but either his "technique" is bad or the rules are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:wrong.  He sways in the saddle; his reins are often held in the wrong hand; his stirrup-straps are too long; he mounts quickly but awkwardly; he uses his heels; he "flaps" his elbows; when really on business he raises his bridle-hand as high as his chin, and leans forward, and perhaps does everything he should not do.  But he would ride an English hunting-field to death, and, give him horses enough, would be the finest light cavalryman the world ever saw.</p><P>And even now he is perpetually armed--not with anything the reader thinks of as a weapon, but with the <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
145.sgm:.  This lissome coil of plaited rawhide, or of twisted black and white horse-hair, hangs always at his saddle-bow.  The implement seems never to have been Spanish, and was not imported.  It is comparatively modern, for it would be almost useless without a horse, and there was a time in America when horses were not.  The Indians did not have it, so far as mentioned by any investigator, and it is altogether <HI REND="italics">sui generis</HI>
145.sgm:, a cowboy's, a vaquero's, thing.</p><P>It sometimes misses fire, so to speak, of course.  So does everything else.  But it is sure enough and strong enough to catch and control the oldest bull or the newest calf of the herd, and to outwit and tangle any creature over whom its loop may fall.  It has an effective range of thirty to sixty feet, and the throwing of it is simply a "knack," obtained by practice and from natural aptitude, but one in which all members of the clan of vaqueros are more or less efficient.  Swung in wide circles obliquely round the head, when let go it passes through the air with a singing sound not pleasant overhead to the creature at whom <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:it is cast, and there seems to be little use in attempting to "dodge" the flying loop.  Were I to attempt the entertainment of the reader by stories of its efficiency, well authenticated, they would simply be relegated to the extensive limbo of Western "yarns."  But its use is now universal over the whole unfenced Southwest.  It, and not the fateful tool of Colonel Colt, or of Colonel Bowie, is the chiefest implement of that intermediate civilization which may be worse than none, but which is the ordained predecessor of the school-house and the plow.  Sometimes it remains even a little later.  Major Ringgold, in command of his battery, was dragged from his horse with a Mexican <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
145.sgm: and killed, in the heat of battle.  The last lynching but one in eastern Kansas was practically done by a mob of one mounted man, who flung his coil over the criminal's head, and executed him by riding off with him.  The progress of fires in Western villages has been repeatedly arrested by "roping" the projecting timbers of half-burned structures by a skillful cast, and pulling them down.  When a wild steer runs a muck through the streets of Chicago, as has not infrequently occurred, the fusillade of the police has little effect, and the man longed for is he who regards the whole occurrence as quite a natural one--for a Texas steer--and who cooly proceeds to "rope" him and induce him to return and be killed professionally, and for the general good.</p><P>Of near kinship with the <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
145.sgm: is another; that peculiar piece of equestrian architecture known these forty years as the "California Saddle."  For it is to the pommel of this that the subtle line is attached, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:and it must be strong.  In comparison with this structure, with what contempt must the flat English riding-pad be regarded; "fit for a pacin' hoss and an old man," one of my Texan friends once told me.  Take a frame whose elaborate "lines" are comparable only with those spoken of in naval architecture; brace the arches with riveted iron; plate and strengthen it wherever possible; cover this frame with thong-sewed raw-hide, fitting without a crease, and let it dry and shrink there; then cover again more or less with carved and embossed leather; rim the round "horn," as big as a tea-plate, with silver, and fringe and tassel and plate it wherever possible; hang the huge wooden stirrups with their hoods and shields; furnish it with a woven hair "cinch" that will stand any strain; be sure that not a buckle occurs anywhere in its organization; and you have some of the chiefest features of the saddle that has gone from the Californian <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
145.sgm: over half a continent.  When the broncho has it on he feels that it is there to stay, and since he may lie down and roll in it only to his own disappointment, he has for generations ceased to do so.  It is open in the middle from end to end, and his high backbone, the contradictory thing about a broncho which makes one think he was not built to be ridden when he is not good for anything else, is never galled.  It is as hard as wood in the seat, and it is the rider's person that must be cushioned and not the saddle.  The blacksmith will hold and hammer an iron bar which you would drop.  The cook in your kitchen dabbles with impunity in the same water with which she removes the hair from the back <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:of your neighbor's pointer when he becomes too frequent in her domain.  The Mexican peasant, reared amid a thousand varieties of cacti, has the foot of a pachyderm and a hand that plucks the red <HI REND="italics">tuna</HI>
145.sgm: with its million microscopic barbs.  So in the <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
145.sgm: and the cowboy, and mayhap the hardened cavalryman, the callouses of kindly nature are interspersed as are those of the palm of your hand.</p><P>South California in a state of nature is a land of nooks and corners, infinitely more beautiful then than any improvement has made them since.  In these nooks the original Spaniard seems very generally to have nestled.  When he did each one was an unintended corner of Arcadia with an adobe house in the middle.  To say it is the land of flowers is but to repeat an item from an immense literature purely American in its origin, and devoted to a delineation of the attractions of described tracts of it.  But it truly is, and of all lovers of flowers perhaps the Spanish peasant woman is the most devoted.  Visit her at this late time in her California career, in her little brown house, with its little brown garden studded with bloom, and when you go away she will give you a flower.  To her it has a certain value you may not perceive, and it is a gift--a "friendship's offering" the significance of which these heartless times have almost obliterated.  There is only one variety of native dwelling in all this country that has not its bloom, and that is that most desolate and womanless of human abiding-places, a sheep-herder's shelter.</p><P>I know a gentleman who, besides the designation already given him, is an Irishman, a soldier and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:bachelor, who was with me once in the yard lying about a little village adobe, as usual a place of flowers.  When we were going away, and had reached the rickety little whitewashed gate, a child came and gave us each a bunch of flowers.  "Now you see," said he, explanatorily, "these people love such things.  That poor woman would carry water a mile in an <HI REND="italics">olla</HI>
145.sgm: to make them grow."  Thereupon he went back and told her how to cure the sickness of her big grapevine, and how pretty the flowers were, and I, a clumsy stranger, knew nothing better than to explore the depths for convenient small coinage for the child, after the usual American fashion.</p><P>They tell us unanimously, and alas! history bears them out, that the Spaniard is cold, cruel, revengeful.  For my small part I may only answer that his womankind have borne and trained him as ours have us, and that not in all rural California, or in rural Mexico either, will one find, even to the washerwoman at the brink of the acequia, aught but ladyship and gentle courtesy.  It is not merely training, and there is a dignity of race for which neither the Spaniard nor his peasant mother will ever be equaled.  The races do not quite make each other out.  Ours is dominant, but the Chinaman may overreach us in the end.  The adobe people have seen the end, and their poor contentment in what was theirs is gone.  Yet the courtesy and simplicity remain, and from it, if from nothing greater, might we obtain some idea of social life in the California of the old times.</p><P>It was pastoral and almost patriarchal to a degree never attained elsewhere in America, and never to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:seen again.  A <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
145.sgm: thinks he works hard, and regards himself as one of the toilers of the earth.  He was under that impression in the old times, but it is only a shepherd's idea.  For his day included rest, laughter, perhaps the dance.  There was no winter, and there was not in any land where a national merriment, a race festiveness, ever existed as an unartificial thing.  If I made a comprehensive map of the United States, I should mark off this remote corner with a red circle, as being the only spot on the continent where, even under peculiar conditions, the people had ever danced in the afternoon, or it had never at some time snowed in the old-fashioned way.</p><P>All that we now see was absent.  There was not a fence, other than that which enclosed a garden or a corral, in all the land.  Very small area was occupied, and, save the nooks and shady corners mentioned the country was a green or a yellow wilderness, asleep in the sunshine.  To journey was to ride, not upon roads, but paths; not in wheeled carriages, but on horseback.  There were no mails, and a horseman carried tidings from rancho to rancho, or they who came and went were the chroniclers of the times.  The book, as we know it, the serial publication, printing itself, were all unknown.  No diarist or scribbler, no childish private impressionist, ever passed that way, and the present writer is sorry they never did.  All these things were as unthought-of as they were in Mesopotamia, and would have been as useless, and this while in Europe the day of the pamplhleteer was at its prime, and Franklin, on this same continent was making Poor Richard's Alma nack, and Mother Spain was stirred by heretical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:opinions, and the triumphant day of the daily newspaper had dawned in sister colonies that were not so rich or old as this.  There were no schools.  The wealthy ranchman hired a person who could read and write to teach his sons, and the daughters came by embroidery how they might, and by dancing traditionally, and these were all they should know.  There were no doctors, and women, after the fashion <illus entity="a145-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OLD ADOBE WALLS.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:of knightly times that seem to us very old indeed, were chirurgeons--the setters of broken bones, the healers of contusions, the staunchers of blood.  Women doctors are a very old institution, and they practised in California while the question as to whether they could or should be doctors was being first discussed from the allopathic view-point.  So far as known even the Spanish lawyer, the toughest of his clan, had not made his appearance amid this innocence.  The Alcade may sometimes have been a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<HI REND="italics">licenciado</HI>
145.sgm:, or he may have had upon his sign the word "Abogado."  There are reasons purely circumstantial, and growing out of real estate transactions, which render this conclusion tenable.</p><P>As all these prominent things were absent in the Californian Arcadia, so were others which were not so necessary.  There were, of course, no fashions, and here would have been the place to find truly, at a date about the same as that of the battle of New Orleans, how the dames of Southern Europe dressed themselves when New Orleans was founded.  There was nothing of what we call trade; there was only iudustry.  Every necessity of life was made where the raw material grew, as it had been fifty years before by our own great-grandparents, and as it still was to some extent.  The rancho, to the Californian the capital of social life, contained everything, made everything.  There was a chapel there, and sometimes even a priest.  There were tailors and shoemakers and smiths.  There was a mill and a tannery, and a cemetery often enough to supply every reasonable demand.  The products were rude, but they served, and when anything was wanting they supplied it with rawhide, and if in haste, with the hair on and wet with the natural juices of the animal it had covered.  This singular material found a place everywhere.  Every coupling or cross-beam was bound with it, the handle of everything was tied on with it, the stock of every old blunderbuss in the province was wrapped with it.  It never came loose.  Old doors are swinging yet whose rawhide hinges <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:first began to bend half a century ago.  Rawhide was to every Californian second nature.</p><P>All human experience seems to indicate that the nearer a community comes to these simplicities the happier it is, and it is a fact that the manhood that has rocked the world has oftenest sprung from such surroundings.  The most charming pictures of Saxon life are those of the gay green wood.  Priestcraft chiefly rules in the crowded centers of civilization.  The groves were God's first temples.  Mountains have been the nursing mothers of both patriotism and poetry.  The fatherland of these people is a mountain country, and whoever has overrun Spain has found that the entire population rose up behind him unconquered when he had passed.  All that was here was natural to Spaniards, and they were not complaining.  It would be yet.  No railway would ever have been built, or mountain path made practicable for wheels, or uplands redeemed from the desert.  For to this hour are those things true of the mother land, upon whose head lie the centuries.  The old Californian, farmer or friar, was a poetic anachronism, as are all Spaniards, charming, simple, Arcadian, but now out of place in the awful country where ten years make a century, and beside the terrible people who laugh at saints because they have never had any, and scoff at miracles because they perform them themselves.</p><P>The Spanish woman, wherever in all sunny lands her lord has borne her, has maintained, even more entirely than he, the peculiarities of her race, and these have been marked and striking for centuries.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:She is a follower of custom and a conservative for whom no equal is known; a stickler for <HI REND="italics">costombre del pais</HI>
145.sgm: who knows no relenting; a believer in all that ever was, who knows no shadow of turning.  She is a frivolous being who is yet solemn and penitent; a dancer of the <HI REND="italics">zapatero</HI>
145.sgm: who is yet the best friend of the priest; a tinkler of guitars, who nevertheless goes to mass every day.  It was this Spanish woman who kept away from old California all the features of our frontier, and who caused it to be from the beginning a custom-regulated and precedent-governed community.  These features were absent here, and it is the only case on North American soil in which, under similar circumstances, they were.  She reared her sons not as frontiersmen, but as Spaniards; and her daughters not as the awkward and unkempt slaves of circumstance and toil, but as the women of all their generations.  It has been said that no difference is to be noted between the women or the houses of Lima and those of Seville, and there are no later appearances to indicate that she of the California valley was ever aught more or less than the woman she would have been on an olive-covered hillside in old Spain.  In utter isolation, with a thousand untrodden leagues intervening between her and all her sisters; with nothing but unconscious custom and unlearned tradition to support her; the Spanish woman of California still wore the rebosa and the comb; still fancied the yellow silk and the falling lace; still had roses in her cheeks and her hair; still danced, sang, laughed, prayed, wept with an inconsistency that made her consistent; still knew as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:much and as little; still clung to her idioms and her lisps, her traditional fears and constitutional proclivities; was still beautiful at sixteen, fat at thirty and lean and cronish at fifty.</p><P>In all reminiscences of the times of the adobe, one does but go over and over again the characteristics of a wonderful race whose character is almost as changeless as that face that has looked across the Lybian sands for five thousand years.  No man has suffered more vicissitudes than the Spaniard has; no man has had his national heart oftener broken; but, also, no man has so changelessly maintained himself amid varying and strange surroundings, and in the very midst and presence of his successors.  The Mestizo, the mixed man, in New or old Mexico, or in California, takes to the Spanish side, and speaks the Spanish tongue, and believes in the Spanish faith.  And this singular power of impressing himself, of leaving himself as a memento, exists in line with a list of failures such as are hardly to be set down to the credit of any other people.  To all there is of him, practically, north of the isthmus of Darien, we may begin now to say a quavering <HI REND="italics">adios hasta nunca</HI>
145.sgm:.  But of his isms and ideas and beliefs, of his wonderful personality, of his perfect tongue, we shall not be quit until a time so far in the future that we need not contemplate it.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.<LB>THE OLD AND THE NEW.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P><illus entity="a145-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE FIRST SETTLER.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:</p><P>SOMETHING has been said in a former chapter of connection with what they did or were apt to do, and they have been alluded to not only as examples of missionary zeal, fortitude and success, but as notably correct in their judgment of the proper and necessary surroundings of such success.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>Without any study of the record or particular knowledge of the past of California, and seeing their country with themselves left out, the only glimpse one catches of the Padres now might fairly lead to almost opposite conclusions.  For there is but one of the twenty-one missions they founded that is now their own, and that is no longer a mission, but a monastery.  In the brightness of the sunshine, looking down on the blueness of the sea, surrounded by a town that has had a "boom," amid the continual comings and goings of total strangers not alone to them, but to the community, confronted by change and newness and all things anti-monastic, worldly, beautiful, they live the secluded life, and observe the rules of St. Francis, and are apart in the ways not only of this life, but in the path to that life which is to come.</p><P>Considering the church alone, the mission of Santa Barbara is perhaps the best-preserved of all the establishments of the original Franciscans.  Seven or eight of the brethren are gathered here, not as relics or remainders of the toilsome and eventful past, but simply as friars of their order, pursuing their own way to the final exchange from brown to white, content and uncomplaining, let us suppose, with the temporal fate that has befallen their order in these days, with no Indians to convert, no holy joy to experience in the acquisition of souls or lands, no difficulties to overcome but those that arise in the inner man, no sacrifices to make but those that lie within their vows.</p><P>The inevitable first impression in visiting the place of these good men must be one produced by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the sense of contrast and incongruity.  They perhaps do not know or care as much about the story of their great order in California as the visitor does.  They were not left behind in the sorrowful exodus of the sequestration, and are as indifferent to the influences and meanings of the unparalleled conquest of their brethren as are the pages upon which these words are printed.  Nor are they in the least affected by the fact that the results of that conquest have gone by with the fact, or that the end, from the view-point they must naturally assme, is more sorrowful than the beginning was discouraging.  Mendicants by rule, as naturally insecure in their expectancies as a faith-hospital, they must here support themselves in a largely Protestant community, and must do it without any of the opportunities their brethren had, and even without those of other men.  The vineyard and the tannery, the mill and the tallow-cauldron, are no longer theirs.  Their strange idea of what a holy life consists in is essentially a medi&aelig;val one, without sympathy in these times.  They are no longer left even the boon of silence.  Business, the prevailing idea of the century, surrounds them.  They can not avoid it.  The grocer's man brings them patent-roller flour in a rattling wagon, and comes away and bangs the ancient door behind him, and at the end of the month the bill doubtless reads like any other house-holder's; so much for so much.  In the old days at San Diego they once so far lapsed as to sometimes ride in the huge and shrieking carts to and from the fields, and thereupon the carts were burned and the forgetful did penance.  In Santa Barbara they ride <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:in the street cars.  Thus has the genius of modern common sense conspired against a holiness that is of the past, and thus does evolution militate against rule, and this is the end, the sloping and attenuated end, of the days and accomplishments of the Franciscans of California.</p><illus entity="a145-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FRANCISCANS OF SANTA BARBARA.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>Perhaps they do not care, for in the nature of the case it would seem that a monk, at least one deprived of the stimulus of some expected result, would scarcely care for anything.  They must suppose that some others must be saved besides themselves, else they could not be missionaries, and if so, the iron rule of monasticism is not essential.  But for all forgetfulness of men, and entire obliteration of their own records, they have duly provided.  All the generations of them who have lived at Santa Barbara sleep indiscriminately together, unmarked and unlamented, in a crypt beneath the church-floor.  When it is full, if it should ever be, the bones that have lain longest are taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:away, and room is made for the latest clay.   There are no records of any deeds: a monk can do no deeds.  Junipero Serra himself, and even St. Francis his great father, obtained their posthumous appreciation at the hands of the people of the world.  Serra is not even conceded to have been other than all his brethren were.  His name is not in the calendar.  He was mourned when he died, and his grave has perhaps been discovered at Monterey, and some of the children of this world have done him due reverence, and that is all.</p><P>These seven or eight Franciscans see every day, and possibly become accustomed to it, those things which cause the merest Protestant stranger to stop and think.  The gray old building stands on a little knoll in the valley now covered at its seaward end by the town of Santa Barbara, and which extends with many a convolution back among the hills.  The place is one of the most beautiful in the world, with a singular suggestion, but for the lack of snow-peaks, of a second Switzerland; --a tropical eidolon of what has been described in thousands of enthusiastic pages, and of what all the world has gone again and again to see.  Just beyond the building, and unseen until one almost enters it, is a narrow valley full of trees, down which runs a stream.  High up toward the source of this the Padres begun their first enterprise, and along the hill and down its slope lies the cement conduit which brought them water as cool and clear as a trout-stream.  The reservoir in which they caught it is there still, as sound as when it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:was made about 1786, and the iron pipe which now brings the water lies near the original one of the missionaries.</p><P>In the side of the reservoir, which has a look of solidity not possessed by any modern structure, there was a sliding wooden gate.  Only the square opening is there now, out of which the water poured to turn the mill-wheel; the building and sluice for which, but not the wheel, are there yet.  Interest in these sound and lasting mementos of ecclesiastical industry can hardly prevent reflection upon the economy and acuteness of the arrangement.  This water was wanted for irrigation and domestic uses, but it did not hurt it any to turn a wheel first.  Therefore a "turn" of water on the garden and fields made it also grinding day, saved the cost and labor of a dam, and the "going to mill" up the valley in an Indian country.</p><P>Buildings, some of which are so sound that they could be used again, are strewn thickly about on this little point of land.  They are of even more than the usual solidity of mission constructions, and were certainly built without any premonition of the end of their uses after so brief a period as about fifty years.  For there was much to do at Santa Barbara.  There are said to have been some thirteen tribes about there, all of differing dialects and tribal customs and notions, and each to the other as the Jews were to the Samaritans.  They assumed each for himself the distinction of a separate people, and must have had at first but faint idea of the unity that is in the Gospel.  There are no tribes now; not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the semblance or traditions or remains of a single one.  The mission water-works, the mission mill, the cracked mission bells and this group of Padres, who have only their own salvation to look after, and who knew them not, have outlasted them all.</p><P>Sometimes one sees in one of the characteristic publications of modern California a cut entitled "A Mission Garden," and thence one would infer that these bowers are common.  There may be two or three, and one of them is here.  Undoubtedly it is much abbreviated in modern times, being but a small square as compared with that at Capistrano or San Luis Rey, and of no importance save as compared with the beautiful wilderness which surrounded it when it was bigger.  The wonder is that it is here at all.  Tadmor is not, practically, more a ruin, or more forsaken, than three-fourths of the missions are.  There is a sense in which all are so, for they are mementos of a past of only a hundred years ago, yet a past so unlike the now that the Athenian Acropolis is quite as recent.</p><P>But this little mission garden, still blooming, has one peculiarity not common to gardens--a woman has never entered it, nor will she until still another past has gone upon the record, and the walls are like those of San Luis and Capistrano and Santa Ynez.  The glimpse from the tower is the nearest approach, and that she may have and usually will not.  For this monastic deprivation she has no satisfaction save that the opposite sex may not visit convents.  Yet on this very day at Santa Barbara had she her feminine revenge.  There must have been other visitors about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the venerable premises, for in a very narrow place the friar who conducted us found one of those willow contrivances with wheels which is the property of the youngest member of every respectable family.  He was forced to the unwonted task of trundling it out of the way, and as he did so she, merely said, with a glance at the cowl and gown, but a face seraphic in its innocence, "It's the last place in the world I'd expect to find a baby-carriage in!"</p><P>He was an Irishman, and she his unknown countrywoman.  If for a moment there came into his eye a twinkle of the days before he was a monk, it passed again, and an exchange of humanities was not continued.  I trust I may be pardoned for the opinion that, to a son of Erin, <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
145.sgm: a monk's deprivations may not consist in an observance of the vows of his order.  He is not so unnatural in his robe and cowl and shaven crown as not to wish sometimes to reply to a civil remark.  Grace was given him on this occasion, and if he wanted to say, "It's only just the <HI REND="italics">wagon</HI>
145.sgm:, mum," as I thought he would have done, I trust he has found comfort in his conscience.</p><P>A pathetic mixture of the old and the new; of ancient quaintness with modern ideas, exists whenever a mission has been repaired.  For nobody now can imitate the indescribable style in which everything in the old days seems to have been done.  This, which is so alluded to for want of any better term, is not describable in words.  There is an Indianesque suggestion in the most elaborate and the most substantial of it which declares it to be the European plan and direction, the intention of a taste that had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:known the ideals of sacred architecture, and of the masonry that was old when Rome became the capital of Christianity, but built by the barbarian hand.  Put back the fallen stones of this; repair it by modern <illus entity="a145-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CONTEMPLATION.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:means; and you have the most undesirable of combinations.  At Santa Barbara a new reservoir stands beside the old and dry one of the Padres, practically in the same spot, and fed by the same source, and not greatly larger.  Close by the church are handsome modern houses.  There is a new ceiling, rather than which one would prefer to risk an occasional bit of falling mortar.  Yet they have left it alone wherever possible, and time may partially heal again the scars of incongruous repair.  There is no high pulpit now, the timbers that held it having crumbled in dry decay.  Not so as yet the very practical and artistic emblems of mortality <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:that adorn the outer frame of the door that opens into a cemetery that has been delved over and over.  These are human skulls, with crossed thigh-bones beneath them, inserted in the stucco so that they seem to have been carved there in high relief.  If not artistic they are most effective, and have long grinned there upon the sadness that comes to all, and with more effective meaning than all the urns and texts and weeping angels that beautify decay in a less realistic age.</p><P>Even the long tank upon whose sloping rim the Indians washed their clothes is there, and has been replastered too, and is full of water.  The figure out of whose mouth the water pours looks precisely like the animal idea of the Pueblos, and is probably the savage notion of a bear, life-size.  But no more Indians will ever come again to make lavish expenditure of the mission soap upon the sloping stucco, and it is but a monumental keepsake of the old times.</p><P>What infinite pains must have been expended in their day upon the mission bells.  I do not know where the oldest are, or the sweetest, but one of these square towers is full of them, and one with edges thin and jagged, says, in a circular inscription whereof the name is not remembered, "-- --made me in 1876."  Another has a text in characters so jagged, and with Vs for Us, that it would require an antiquarian to read it.  Among the necessary things sent to California by the first ships that came were seven church bells.  They were things indispensable.  They carried some of them whenever they went to establish a new mission, and hung them to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the low branches of live-oaks and awoke the barbaric<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
145.sgm: silences with their clangor.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">There are California artists of no mean ability.  Why does not some one of them turn his genius to "The Ringing of the Bells," and give the world an artist's vision of the sunny wilderness, the surprised barbarian and the heroic Padre of a hundred years ago?</NOTE>
145.sgm:<P>Afterwards they came from time to time, until there were more than a hundred of them ringing at the various missions, always in groups, but without any regard to tune or tone.  It was a long journey, and a slow one.  Cadiz or Barcelona to Havana, Havana to Vera Cruz, Vera Cruz around the Horn to San Diego, and thence up the coast or across the country painfully.  Doubtless the imperishable bronze of hundreds more of them rests in the ooze of the deep sea bottom, having gone down in the innumerable wrecks of those times.  Yet Mexico is full of them, and the slow ox-teams of still slower times carried still more of them from Vera Cruz to Santa Fe&acute;, and to Taos and Tucson and El Paso, and all the villages of the Rio Grande.  Even Texas had them, and they rang a <HI REND="italics">repique</HI>
145.sgm:, a mistaken one, when the slaughter of the Alamo condemned their chimes to foreign ears over a region greater than all Europe, and forever.  With the crudest skill they hung them where they are ringing yet, and their tones are those of a requiem wherever heard.</p><P>As to these, there is no other reason why they should be heard.  The worshipers are few or none, and the masses are said to walls, and the Stations of the Cross, and the echoing floors.  No scene can more vividly recall the recollection of former days than the Sunday vespers, when there is not an Indian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:face where once were hundreds.  All the church has now, after her great success, are in the cemetery asleep.  Yet as changelessly imperturbable as the ages through which she has passed she goes right on.  Time and the world, and death, and change, do not affect her, and she stands alone in her capacity for patient waiting till her time shall come again, and all men shall be gathered unto her.  Here at Santa Barbara, Virgin and Martyr, the blue clouds of incense have risen for more than a hundred years about her image.  The hearts she was made to impress are dust.  A town, an American city, has grown up around her shrine and bears her name.  All things that were not intended have come, and all that were hoped for are gone.  A handful of monks, strangers to her sponsors, and anachronisms, still hover about her and will sleep beneath her feet at last.  They are mementos of a time so far upon the verge that not a thing on earth, and not a thought, is as it was when the little Italian town sent forth their founder and his followers.  Yet those are not further off, nor more incongruous, than the more recent ones whose hopes and prayers were centered here.  One may perchance visit a ruin merely, and then forget it, but one does not forget the living reminders of a ruin that is not alone of chapels, or mission-lands, or sequestration, but of an era.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>A CONNECTING LINK.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P>"THERE are days when everything goes wrong."</p><P>The beldame who made this remark to me, among a rambling assortment of others, gave me the impression of being what I have taken the liberty of calling her not so much from actual senility as from intention.  But she was old enough to be at entire liberty to use any form of speech she chose to a stranger whom she had never before seen, and whom she must travel far to ever see again.  I was at the moment inclined to her belief in the matter of common philosophy she was an advocate of, for various petty reasons, one of which was that I was bored.</p><P>For the sun shone with Californian fervor on the hills lying about San Diego, and upon them all there was not a tree where one could remove his relentless hat, and sit upon a dusty boulder, and gratify himself with a demonstration of the axiom that in California the sun is always hot and the shade is always cool.  The light brown dust, fine as wheaten flour, covered my shoes and seemed to have penetrated to the inside.  It had not rained much ever, and here not at all since the end of the season locally known as Winter, and all the innumerable stones, and the gravelly concrete on which they rested--that deceptive Macadam which needs only to be wet to become as fruitful as the Delta of the Nile--gave me the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:impression of containing not a drop of moisture down to the center of the earth.  The brown lizards my footsteps startled glared at me with ridiculous malignity, with beady, lidless eyes, and glided away.  The dusty green bushes caught at me as I passed; big enough to walk around, small enough to be absolutely shadowless.  A lazy little tepid wind blew from the South, fanning nothing into coolness, and deceptive in intention.  Below me lay the long, shining scythe which I knew was the Bay, and beside it, thick and metropolitan in the center, and dwindling away into flecks and patches on the hillsides, lay the town.  Beyond all was the shining silver endlessness of the Pacific, asleep under a covering of haze, ending without horizon in a gray-blue sky.</p><P>Why I had come there I do not precisely know.  I was not looking for lot investment.  It is a poor country that will not afford the privilege of a stroll without exacting a repentance.  Others had been there before me, for long furrows had been ploughed on some of the slopes, and earth had been removed with a scraper, and posts and boards announced that this was Such-and-Such an Avenue.  At other places stood the pine business cards of the firms who dealt in real estate, and at still others "Snap Bargains" were announced.  Before me, erected so that all might know, was an announcement in large letters that "This Tract,--by--feet, is RESERVED for the erection of the FINEST HOTEL in Southern California."  So it was; there was no disputing it, and I passed on.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>The antipode of all this I encountered in the old woman whom I have mentioned, and who uttered the bit of ancient philosophy I have quoted, and in mongrel Spanish which helped to allay the saltness of its flavor.  I asked for a little water, and she said " <HI REND="italics">Ah, no hay agua aqui ninguno</HI>
145.sgm:," and I abandoned the unreasonable desire, satisfied if I opened a flow of conversation instead, which I did.</p><P>The place of her habitation had attracted me from a considerable distance by its air of abject wretchedness.  I knew what I should find there; the gypsyish semi-civilized Indians who are the brethren of those who were in the missions, who wander hither from that long, dry, prickly tongue which is the peninsula of California, and who know not why they come.  I call this tattered abode of barbarian poverty a place for convenience, and a habitation for no better reason.  It was at the end of a little steep ravine which opened into a still wider one, and it had been rudely curtained with dilapidated gunny-sacks fastened upon sticks.  The crone sat upon the ground, stirring some heterogeneousness with one hand in a battered pan, while the other lay listless across her knee.  A little fire smoked lazily in a hole.  A boy of twelve sat in the shadow and blinked at me.  They slept in the sand, and ate upon it, and breathed it, and mingled with a little water they must have drank it for most of their lives.  They were like all their forefathers of the earth.</p><P>She did not invite me to enter, or bid me be seated, for obvious reasons, and I availed myself of a little ragged shade and seated myself on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:ground, and her natural suspicion was doubtless disarmed somewhat at the sound of such Spanish as I knew.  For all these Indians, so far as I know, speak that tongue, and are inheritors of the influence of that people.  Even these were not entirely Indians.  They wore, after a ragged and cast-off fashion, the garments of civilization, and had the general <illus entity="a145-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MISSION INDIANS OF TODAY.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:demeanor of those who have tasted improvement without having fully partaken of it.</p><P>I asked her if she was inclined to think it warm, and she answered that it was rather so; not very.</p><P>"Where did you come from?"</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Abajo</HI>
145.sgm:;--below.</p><P>"Are you alone?"</p><P>Then she broke forth into lamentations.  The <HI REND="italics">burro</HI>
145.sgm: was gone; her man was hunting for him; he had been gone two days; and looking sorrowfully upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the ground from beneath raised eyebrows, and shaking her head slowly from side to side as people do who submit patiently to unmeasured affliction which is not deserved, she made the remark I have mentioned: " <HI REND="italics">Hay dias en que ninguna cosa sale bien</HI>
145.sgm:."</p><P>In various forms, meaning the same thing, it is undoubtedly a Spanish proverb, and not an Indian idea.  Therefore, I inquired when she had learned the tongue.  Her answer was to hold her hand, palm downward, about a foot from the ground, as everybody does when it becomes necessary to say "ever since I was so high," or words to that effect.</p><P>"Have you been here always?"</p><P>She answered that she had always been in the country, in various places.</p><P>"And how old are you?"</p><P>She did not know, "but I was here when the Americanos came.  I was like that boy;" pointing to the youth, who had never removed his eyes from me since my advent.</p><P>"Well, who came?"</p><P>She answered that there were ships, and soldiers, " <HI REND="italics">alla abajo</HI>
145.sgm:," pointing to the bay, " <HI REND="italics">y alla tambien en el ceree'yo</HI>
145.sgm:," pointing toward the distant hill where lies the old earthwork called Fort Stockton.</p><P>This was ancient history too modern.  She was not beginning at my beginnings, and, meaning no harm, I wished her something like a hundred and ten years old.  Musing upon the question of how to begin to find out if she could tell me anything of a still earlier time, she took her innings by suddenly asking me:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Es Usted Padre</HI>
145.sgm:?"</p><P>So she imagined that I, too, might be a missionary, and necessarily a clergyman.  I do not know how many things I may have been taken for in the course of my life and wanderings, but the idea of being in holy orders was at least new to me.</p><P>But the subject was broached, and I asked her if she remembered the Padres of the old times.  She said she only knew of them through her <HI REND="italics">parientes</HI>
145.sgm:; her relatives.  These, she said, had not lived at the mission of San Diego, but had worked on a rancho of the mission; an outlying field or pasturage.  This, to her mind, seemed to constitute a claim to distinction and consideration, and was a reminiscence that had dwelt with her during more than half a lifetime of wretchedness and squalor, though such wretchedness had been the natural condition of her race until the Franciscans came, and since their departure had again been as from the beginning.  For an elderly Indian woman she might not have been hideous but for the intention they all seem to have of being so if possible.  I had a vague idea that if she were elsewhere, and some one would wash her, and comb her hair, and give her a new cotton gown, and place her in a chair, I should like to hear her story.</p><P>I heard it anyhow, for it was a narrative.  Indians, barbarians of all lands, seem to lack the power of personal reminiscence.  If it is a tradition, a legend, a tribal history, it passes from tongue to tongue through dusky generations.  It was told in a Spanish as bad as my own, and with a badness new to me.  Some of her phrases I could not understand, and she had that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:geographical nomenclature of the country doubtless current and exact with her people, but unknown to modern description.  I give it as I got it, or, rather, as I concieve it to have been.</p><P>"Something very new happened to my great-grandmother," she said.  "She was gathering acorns on the hillside, some one of these I suppose, when the ship of the Spaniards came into the bay and sailed into the shallow water up there;" and she pointed in the direction of what is called False Bay.  "She fancied at first it was a big white goose; bigger than was ever seen; but there were men upon it, and she lay down amongst the bushes and waited to see what they had come to do.  Presently a canoe came ashore with men in it, and she ran home to the hut."</p><P>"Then the Indians came and watched them from among the bushes, and they built a house there, and every night the smoke arose and the fire glowed.  This was the beginning."</p><P>"Then some of the people crept nearer and nearer, and at last it became known that they were men, such as the very old ones said they had heard had been here before, and they had hurt nothing.  My people could have killed them, but it was thought that they were not like us, and that they had powers that were far-reaching, and they waited for them to go away again."</p><P>"But time passed and they did not go.  Another ship came, and also other men from the South, and the Indians grew more accustomed to them.  They were but men, for they died and were buried, and when my people knew this they grew more familiar.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:We did not know what they came for, but they talked, and were friendly, and were not any longer feared.  Only the women did not go to them.  They gathered acorns, and heard what others told, and staid at home."</p><P>"Time passed.  Perhaps it was a year, or two years.  It is long ago, and I never heard.  But one day my great-grandmother was on the hill amongst the little oaks.  By that time the bells rang every day, and these Spaniards went about over the country, and talked with the people, and asked them to come with them, and gave them things they had never seen before.  You may think it strange, but up to that time the Indians had never seen so much as a knife to cut with.  And while my relative was there among the acorn-bushes a man came, and when he saw her he stopped to look, and she ran away.  But when on another day she was on the hills he came again, and again she ran, and this happened many times, he calling to her, and she running away.  I know perfectly well now how it was.  I think she wanted him to come there, though she ran, and at last she did not run so far."</p><P>And now came into the old woman's face a kind of reminiscent smile, and I knew she was thinking of the romance of her distant relative with the stranger from over the sea.</p><P>"Well?"  I remarked, inviting her to go on.</p><P>"Then she did not run one day.  I suppose she only walked, and this mission soldier followed her home, and when they came to the hut together, to the little place made of bushes where they lived, her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:family were very angry, and drove the man away.  And the tribe heard of it, and were all angry."</p><P>"And he did not get the girl?"</p><P>"Ah, no.  There was trouble in the hills, and some time after that the tribes attacked the mission, and pulled down the stones, and killed a Padre and two soldiers, and went back <HI REND="italics">abajo</HI>
145.sgm:."</p><P>I had heard of the one Indian attack which disturbed the days of that peaceful conquest, and was surprised to learn, for the first time, that the Gallic axiom " <HI REND="italics">Cherchez la Femme</HI>
145.sgm:," would apply to this difficulty also.  What I was getting may not have been good history, but it had the unwonted merit of coming from the other side.  To the modern Californian there may exist other very good reasons for not believing it, since the days for making a <HI REND="italics">casus belli</HI>
145.sgm: of the fate of a squaw are long since passed.  But it is a fact that prior to the touch of civilization every Indian community, of every race and tribe, has had its most jealous care in the guardianship of its women.  To their rule in this regard the Mosaic law was mild, and death did not wait for proof, but followed suspicion.  Chastity was originally the one barbarian virtue alike of Apache and "Digger."</p><P>But it was not a pretty ending to an incipient romance.  The old woman went on to say that that tribe never did come back, and that a long time; <HI REND="italics">muy largo tiempo</HI>
145.sgm:; passed before any of her people would have anything to do with the Franciscans or their missions.  Many other tribes had similar feelings.  It is an acknowledged fact that, at the time of the sequestration, there were thousands of dusky <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:wanderers among these hills whom the gospel had never reached, and for whom the missionaries had long ceased to care.  They knew all about the new civilization, and had been accustomed to see it from a distance for more than a generation, but the ineradicable "Digger" remained in them.  The shelter of rushes or boughs, the hole in the sand, the diet of hornedtoads, bugs, snakes and gophers, and liberty, appeared <illus entity="a145-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NO GOSPEL THEN OR NOW.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:to them the better part to the last.  This old woman, dwelling under her flapping shelter, utterly miserable to any civilized understanding, occupied a place between.  She knew, yet had not tasted.  In such a shelter was she born, and amid such surroundings had always lived.  She was a California Indian.  This was life to her, almost worse than the life of the old times, but the only one she knew.  The doom of the heathen who reject had come to her in this life.  The last remainder of a multitude, she was here amid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the gradings of inchoate avenues and the signs and inducements of the real-estate industry, a "Digger" still, and with all this she thought that some days were worse than others.</p><P>I asked her if she had not some other story to tell me; one that would end better; and she shook her head.  "Where do you live when you are at home?"  I inquired.  She waved her hand and answered--" <HI REND="italics">En todas partes</HI>
145.sgm: "--everywhere</p><P>"Have your people no place--no country?"</p><P>"No.  Sometimes it is better here, sometimes there.  There is here more clothing, and there more fish.  I do not understand the Americans and their towns, or where they all come from, or why they come.  Neither do I the others who came first--the Spaniards.  Perhaps there was not enough in their country, and they came to find better.  Perhaps it is so with you.  You took this land away from them, they took it from us.  Will somebody come and take it from you?"</p><P>For one moment the vision of a Mongolian seizure; of hordes and swarms of yellow faces; of serried battalions wearing pigtails, passed before my mind.  Then I said, "No; no one is coming after us; no people can take anything from the Americans; they <HI REND="italics">always</HI>
145.sgm: stay."</p><P>And to this she answered, in the words and tone disagreeably familiar to every one who knows the tongue or the Spanish people, " <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
145.sgm:?"  When it comes to that classic remark there is no longer any use of discussing the question then in hand, whether it be of a transaction in horseflesh or of national <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:policy.  This miserable semi-savage memento had her opinions, drawn from natural sources.  The question was like that of a child, whom one can not convince against his conclusion that what has happened once will happen again.</p><P>Across the ravine from where we sat there was a yellow embankment, and a somewhat dilapidated railway track.  I asked her if the trains passed there.</p><P>"Sometimes."</p><P>"What makes it go?"</p><P>"I don't know.  Perhaps it is the white people's Devil."</p><P>"What is the wire for overhead?"</p><P>"I don't know.  To catch birds?" inquiringly.</p><P>I was convinced then that this dusky prophetess was a subject for whom a more patient missionary than I would be necessary.  It was Apache-like; the universal Indian; to see a miracle every day; perhaps to vaguely wonder; but never to enquire, never to try to understand.  I changed the subject again to her own affairs, and asked her if her people had a chief.</p><P>"No."</p><P>"Then who governs?"</p><P>"The man;" meaning of course the universal masculine.</p><P>"What becomes of your sons?"</p><P>"Sometimes they work.  When there is no work they sleep."</p><P>"Have you any house?"</p><P>"Yes,--this."</p><P>"And when it rains?"</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>"Then," laughing, "we are very wet.  But it will not rain soon."</p><P>"What do you do with your daughters?"</p><P>"Well, they are like other women; just women; they go."</p><P>"What has become of all the Indians?"</p><P>"Some of us have gone to the desert.  Most are dead."</p><P>"Of what?"</p><P>"Of a disease the Americans brought; this,"--and she showed with apparent satisfaction some ancient marks of small-pox on her wrist.</p><P>"And they died of that; all, and in so short a time?"</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Mira hombre</HI>
145.sgm:!"--look here, man--she said, as her voice grew shriller; "One gets it; he can't see"--bringing her eyelids together with her thumb and finger--"He can't hear"--putting her fingers in her ears--"he is all sick"--making dots over her face and arms with her finger-end--"he don't know anything"--tapping her forehead.  "There is no cure.  He dies.  One after the other goes.  All who know him die.  This year there are a hundred.  Next year not one."</p><P>The crone was describing in a few words the fate of the California Indian.  She conveyed to me the impression that she considered it the incurable curse brought by my people, and purposely.  She understood no more of it, of its cause and cure, of all that we consider its history, than she did of why the railway track was laid, or the whispering wire was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:stretched overhead.  She classed it with those diabolical contrivances.  It happened that during all the years of the missions there was no small-pox, or, if there was, the cases were isolated and the curse suppressed.  Therefore, with all other mysterious things, we also brought this, and it wrought havoc amid these endless hills.  Perhaps it matters very little what they may think, but it is the universal accusation against us in the helpless savage mind.  They make no history, not even the history told by bones and piles of stone, but if they did, the story would go down to dusky posterity that we killed our predecessors with charms and a curse.</p><P>To understand the savage rightly it is necessary to know that he does not appreciate you.  I was not making any impression upon this old woman.  Had what she really knew been capable of being arranged in her own mind, she could have told me all I wished to know.  I do not pretend to the reader that the sketch is worth making except to emphasize the fact that all that is good in civilization is bad to all but the civilized.  I had here before me, seated on the ground and speaking a tongue I could understand, the three periods of the history of the coast: the Digger, the Franciscan and the American.  The last-comer was I, face to face with the first, and, in a sense, with all that had gone between.  Lacking the stolid face and the stupid stare, more than usually intelligent, perhaps, to her all the past was yet as a page torn out.  The half-dollar I gave her opened a new era, and her day was perfect when a gray and shambling Indian made his appearance, not with a donkey, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:with an old gray horse.  " <HI REND="italics">Ya ha benido</HI>
145.sgm:," she said; "I knew something would happen when you came."</p><P>What had happened was more to her than all that was gone; a companion for the endless misery and squalor which she considered life; the pitiable beast of burden who shared the savage lot, and a silver half-dollar.  When I arose to go I asked her if she thought this was really one of the days when everything went wrong.  For the first time she laughed, and in the middle of her brown face, and between those uncomely lips, I saw the glistening rows of white and perfect teeth which are nature's almost only gift of comeliness to the aborigine of California.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.<LB>SOME "ARGONAUTS."</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P><illus entity="a145-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BEFORE THE RAILWAYS.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:</p><P>SOME twenty years ago it occurred to one of the most brilliant and indolent geniuses this country has produced to bestow a generic title, a classic name, upon that remarkable body of men who were the first Americans to truly know California.  Those were golden days, and their coming was not in vain.  For then, and almost only then, did the placer yield for a body of hopeful adventurers a yellow store that could be known by sight as Gold.  No capital was required; nothing but a pick, a shovel, a pan, a "cradle," "grub" and pluck.  This last quality acquired among them the name of "sand," and they had it, and in many cases it was all they had.  But <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:by it they acquired, in connection with that which they came for, the name of Argonauts, which in a sense, they truly were.</p><P>Most of them were young when they came, and only those who were yet survive.  Nearly all, sooner or later, returned to "the States" and to a course of life not unusual, and have long since more than half forgotten all the wisdom of those times, applicable only to them and their circumstances, and confined to the Pacific coast exclusively.  Many a deacon in good standing now was not so then.  Many an one who might have been so if he had stayed at home, had his chances for being thus distinguished spoiled by an experience now impossible in any corner of the world.</p><P>To some, perhaps to most, who remained in California, was reserved a destiny of which they were not, and are not now, entirely conscious.  They rarely or never married, but this not extraordinary circumstance must be taken in connection with another; that in the nature of the case they have, all their lives almost, lacked the subtle influence of woman.  Mountain and wood and stream, and other men, have been their companions, and now at sixty they are what is termed "peculiar"; oddities; semi-misanthropic; lacking faith in the very axioms of life; not governed by the experience which is almost the common inheritance of the race.  Wherever they finally go they are singularly inclined to live alone, and to make their own beds, and do their own cooking and washing, and they care not in what solitary nook the one-room house they call home is placed.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>And these veterans of the old time, these Argonautic relics, are not disposed to shun association with their fellow-men.  They want it, and like it, but they take it curiously.  A thousand common ideas and experiences are new to them, and, indeed, the very commonest are the newest.  An ordinary fatuity is to wish to do all those things now--except marry--which a man should do only in his youth, if at all, and to make themselves ridiculous by those performances which are expected only of boys.  They <HI REND="italics">are</HI>
145.sgm: boys--with gray beards and decrepitude to call especial attention to an incongruous fact.  Only one other class of men bears any comparison with them in this respect, and that is the briny mariner who has sailed the wide world over, who has visited every clime, and who comes ashore at last without having touched the bottom of anything except the bottom of his vessel, on sea or land; a man whose experiences are only wide, not deep, and whose beliefs, doctrines and superstitions, stuck to with the tenacity of a barnacle, amuse his fellow-mortals as long as he lives.</p><P>More or less so perhaps is the rare ascetic, monk, clergyman or college-professor, whose life, once common, can now only be lived by a rare being here and there to whom the world is nothing.  The precise opposite of all such, Argonaut, sailor or scholar, is that man whom the times have developed into an unequalled radiance, and whom we know, even without an introduction, as the Commercial Traveller.</p><P>Take a nook in California where three or four of these ancient miners have chosen to reside, and their pranks are almost surely an unfailing amusement of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the community.  They live apart, each one by himself, and the hotel, or the boarding-house, knows them not.  They are nearly all "heeled."  That is a phrase of Argonautical invention which saves tedious explanation, which means in Texas that one is armed, and in California that he has money.  To this man a solitary blanket is a bed, and a pile of straw a luxury.  He would walk across the continent if necessary, and when he had done so would walk back again if the town he had "struck" did not suit him when he got there.  Easy-going and good-tempered, he is yet as ready to fight as an old bear, and with as entire a recklessness as to consequences.  And you never can tell when he is going to begin.  Silent usually, when he meets a man he knew in the old times his garrulity is grotesque.  Yet he will rarely talk of those times, and his answers to your questions are merely tantalizing.  For his idea of them is not yours, nor Mr. Bret Harte's either, and they seem to be accompanied in his mind with tinges of regret, not that they are gone, but that they ever came.  So the story of early California, a wonderful one too, remains very largely untold.  Part of it would be that of men of your own race, whose motives and feelings you can understand, whose sweethearts, or mothers, or mayhap whose wives, lived for thirty years and more after they came away, and they never saw them again, and do not perhaps now know whether they are living or dead.  Part of it would be of years of unceasing but purely experimental toil, solitary in the river-bed or on the mountain side, hopeful ever; tempted from day to day; a failure at last.  Part would be of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:failures of inexperienced and luckily-gotten wealth, gone in a day or a year, and gained in vain.  Many an Argonaut has these things to carry about, concealed in the inner consciousness of one who never had a home, or reared a child, or knew a sister, or repaid the tears or cares of her who bore him.  They also are part of the "romance" of early California, believed in by all who yet linger, and to be added to the oddities and crudities, the whims and notions and mistakes which are conscious possessions; the ineffaceable results of life in a womanless world.</p><P>In some cases society has grown up around these old fellows in very late years, and surprised them with its vagaries.  In such a case they are inclined to get together beneath some spreading tree where nobody can hear them, and take counsel in regard to its necessities.  As likely as not they may then employ a dancing-master, or order blue velvet suits for a projected masquerade, or do both, quite regardless of all expense.  Having once attended a ball, this man will fancy that the way to do it is to do it all, and proceed to acquire what he considers the inevitable intricacies of the Highland Fling, the Double-shuffle, the endless varieties of the professional dancer, and all under the impression that these are what one should know if he dances at all.  Yet he will never acquire the figure of a contra-dance as long as he lives, and hangs up the delicate fabrics of his masquerading caprice in a closet constructed for them alone, wondering why they should seem awkward upon him alone of all the giddy multitude.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>Sometimes he fancies that he has neglected his musical education, and having lately heard or seen something which has had the effect of starting him in that direction, he concludes that he will apply himself.  Thereupon he orders from some Eastern manufacturer all the pieces necessary for a "brass" band.  Then he and his cronies proceed to "practice," first without a teacher and then with one, making night hideous for their fellow-citizens as long as the whim lasts them, or until public clamor forces them to take to the fastnesses of nature with their horns.</p><P>Ceasing at last from want of wind, or inability to master a score no less difficult to an aged beginner than Greek would be, or from the refusal of their lips to acquire that little horny callous on the inner side which is necessary to every horn-blower, our Argonaut never sees the real difficulty, but imagines the instruments to be imperfect or the assortment incomplete, and thereupon orders a banjo as the one remaining thing.  Perhaps it is from a private conclusion he has arrived at that anybody can play a banjo, even the universal incompetent he has always been in the habit of referring to briefly as a "nigger," and he is going to come out master of something.</p><P>The tribulations incident to brass horns may be largely borne in private, but with the dance company is necessary.  It is urgent that the feminine portion of the community should become interested, and that a teacher of the graceful should be hired to make his presence felt at the district school-house at least once a week.  Our Argonaut being willing to furnish the money, one portion of this program is easy.  It is the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:"wimmin" that puzzle his well-meaning understanding.  The duennas who own the pretty Spanish girls "play it low down on him" by alleging that while they may manage to see their maidens usually well <illus entity="a145-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AN ARGONAUT.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:shod, -- <HI REND="italics">muy bien calzado</HI>
145.sgm:, as they express it, --they can not pecuniarily endure the well-known wear and tear incident to fantastic trippings on the schoolhouse floor.  Unless somebody furnishes the boots they can't go next Friday night, and the maiden says as much, regretfully but firmly.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>This one can not be spared, nor that one, because they dance by nature, and so gracefully that the Argonaut wonders what is the matter with <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
145.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
145.sgm: legs.  So he says that if that is all he will see that she has the boots, and gives her an order on the store.  Very soon the arrangement, having been quickly grasped by the feminine community and their mothers, becomes so common that, to save trouble and do the thing systematically, he has these shoe-orders printed, and they become almost negotiable paper in the community.  Every girl has a new pair of boots from an assortment running remarkably small in the sizes, and the feminine support is continued upon the preposterous hypothesis that she does not really wish to dance, but is willing to do so as an accommodation to the Argonaut if he will stand the wear and tear.</p><P>Having accomplished so much, and so very easily, the Duennas seem to have cast about them for another scheme whereby they might profit, and there is a strong disposition in attempting to describe it, to lapse into homely idioms, and to quote the memorable instance of him who, having for once the opportunity to take as much as he wanted of plug or pie--precisely which of the two not being mentioned in the narrative or essential to the moral--proceeded to excise considerably more than he could masticate.  In going about to find out if there would probably be a good attendance at the next visit of the dancing-master, one demure damsel said she really did not think she could go, and yet would not state why.  Two or three more acted likewise, and again the fate of the enterprise seemed trembling in the balance.  The Argonaut was forced to inquire among the male members <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:of the community whether they, or any of them, could tell him what was again the matter with the "wimmin."  Yes, one of them could.  The matter was that these girls would not dance unless they looked real nice, and in order that they might, it was alleged to be necessary that some of them at least should have a new and more accurately-fitting one of those garments whose purpose is to make other garments fit, and which is alluded to in feminine serials as the corsage.  Dolores wanted a new one.</p><P>"And what the blank is a corset?" exclaims the miner, "and what have I got to do with them?"</p><P>And thereupon he abandons for aye the whole capricious and precarious enterprise.  If he ever dances again, it will be as he used to dance in the mines; with considerable inelegance, and with a piece of his red shirt tied to one arm to designate the sexes.</p><P>But it is not always in the line of the fine arts and frivolity that the Forty-niner exercises his public spirit.  Having no child of his own, and privately considering his life largely misspent in that he has not, it is very characteristic of him to develop an unusual interest in the public-school system.  If the treasury is temporarily vacuous, he goes into the depths and produces sufficient money to tide over the difficulty.  He is interested in the library, and buys books for it, and makes the most extraordinary selections of them ever known.  He wants banners, and what he considers emblematic devices and mottoes, to hang upon the school-house walls.  He would put a globe three feet in diameter on each gate-post, and on this globe he would delineate in high colors the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:seas and continents of the world.  A favorite scheme, perhaps, is to occupy the whole of one inside gable-end with a gilt colossal eagle, and under the fierce bird to emblazon fourteen stars; thirteen ordinary ones and one big one--a "blazer," he remarks--for California.  And under all this he would say: "The Poorest Child may tread the Classic Halls of Yore."  Then he thinks the school-house would be about right, with all its appurtenances and belongings.  Curiously enough, he meets opposition in these views from his fellow-members of the Board, and when he does he incontinently abandons his educational projects and turns his attention to some other enterprise, bringing to bear upon it in turn his remarkable ideas of what should be.</p><P>The reader will say: "But I myself know returned Californians, and they are not like this."  They probably are not; the fact is readily conceded.  But those who returned at all did so while still young, and their Californian experience is to them as the four years of the great civil war are to the veteran; a hiatus; so much practically left out.  But it is an experience.  Neither the war of secession nor the early days of California left their participants the same as their fellows are.  They think and believe differently, though perhaps privately, upon a hundred subjects.  Both were experiences rare, extraordinary, and impossible of repetition, and are now portions of a life apart from that of a new generation in a thousand particulars.</p><P>But he who stayed, who adopted for a life-time the ways he found in vogue in his youth in a State <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:unique in all its periods and in everything, is often, if not always, the character so far attempted to be described.  Any one who will place himself among the scenes of those days may have a more or less vivid idea of the processes of his education.  The mountains lie imperturbable on every hand, ethereal in the blue haze of the afternoon, and the valleys glow in the sunshine.  The old red roads wind away among the hills, often now grown across with coarse herbage and having the air of melancholy the deserted pathways of men wear all over the world.  The round hills are spiked with stumps where once the red-wood grew, and a new growth of azalea and alder and sumach strives to hide the scars and gashes made by the pick and shovel of forty years ago.  Old flumes have rotted and fallen, and still lie strewn in the ravines across which they once carried so many miner's inches of water every day, and poured it into a hundred "cradles" rocking to and fro between the gravel-bank and the growing pile of "tailings."  Even here and there old cabins lean and rot, mementos and remains of the strangest domesticity that ever was; the womanless and childless little homes whose people had been dropped as from the skies into this sylvan world, and who lived in them the life of a society without law, gospel or school.  Old dams lie in the streams; old stage-bridges preserve still a timber here and there at either end.  Sometimes the rust-eaten fangs of an ancient pick may be found among the debris at the mouth of an excavation.  Perhaps at rare intervals a grizzled veteran <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:may show you where so-and-so got his pile, and half wonders that you never heard of him.</p><P>There are graves, too; dimly discernible, but still to be known as the long-ago forgotten resting-places of the stranded Argonauts, whose comrades left them to be waited for, and never to come, in the home beyond the rugged mountains and the endless plains.  There are little towns, built in gulches and straggling up hill-sides, which long ago saw their last inhabitant depart, and where now no one ever comes.  Their hilarious nights have not left an echo, or their reckless days a sign.  Fragments of glass may tell where the saloon was, and some charred earth where was once an hotel, and it is not possible to look at the place, and then inquire in vain for its name, and note the old road to it, and the faint straggling miner's paths that radiated from it up the hillsides, without a melancholy reflection upon the transitory nature of human schemes and ambitions, where or whatsoever they may be.  This was one of the most fervid forms of American life less than forty years ago, and there are left now only the dimmest signs of it amid the mountain silence and shadows.  Nature is already investing it with the signs of antiquity; with the creeping grass and growing shrubs wherewith she heals the wounds of human occupancy, and obliterates the records of human struggle and ambition, and asserts herself at last empress of all.</p><P>Every reflective man must have his moments of looking back, and his wholesome private reflections upon the theme of what an ass he has been in his time.  Of these philosophers the boundless West is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:full, for there they who endured the most now have the least.  The early wanderers over Kansas and Dakota, the men to whom every feature of hill and plain was familiar, rounded out their experiences by an entire misconception of the final uses of the vast <illus entity="a145-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IN THE 50'S.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:expanse, and a total neglect of all opportunities.  It may be slightly too strong an expression to say that the Argonaut who remained in California lives in a state of chronic surprise, but any casual observer is liable to fall into the error that he must and does.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:Before he came, and while he was arguing the case with his relatives, so to speak, he regarded it as the land of gold.  After he had reached the place he remained under that idea--if he could only "strike" it.  The fever grew, and reached its climax, and declined, and he still thought and said that the country was good for nothing else.  When the early times were gone and the gulches were deserted, and the placers had "played out," and the "leads" had "petered," and his chances were gone, he awoke slowly to the fact that California was not the land of gold at all, and that the real wealth was in the soil.  The "greeny" and the "tenderfoot," knowing from the Argonautic standpoint nothing at all, came and seized upon the opportunities he had neglected, and filled up the country he had expected to see almost deserted.  They diverted his flumes and ditches wherever they could, and turned the sage-brush and chapparal into fields and farms.  It was not <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
145.sgm:, but a peach orchard; not the country of "camps," but of towns; not of wild oats of either the natural or artificial variety, but of vineyards and orchards.</p><P>And as time passed the deception grew worse and worse.  The "desert" put in its claims.  The country which the Argonaut never visited; the edge of that yellow-and-gray expanse that had killed of thirst and dust and hunger so many of his companions who only tried to hasten across it; began also to bloom.  Cities sprang up beside a miserable ditch, embowered in tropical foliage, and containing more inhabitants than all the Argonauts ever numbered.  The waste and lonesome acres began to have a value greater <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:than they would have had if they had been staked off as mining claims.  People came in greater numbers, and with more enthusiasm, and possessed of considerably more money, than were seen by any of the golden years succeeding the historic 'Forty-nine.  At first the old Californian calmly awaited the miserable failure of all this wildness, and knew as one does who has had experience that the world had to a considerable extent gone crazy, and counseled with his few remaining fellows as to the signs of the times.  It is not to be denied that sometimes he also partook of the benefits accruing, in cases where for a quarter of a century or more he had been the owner of lands he never really wanted, and hillsides that came to him by chance.  Where he drifted into South California, because there was nowhere else to go, or for some similar reason, he often awoke to find himself upon a "pocket" very late in life.</p><P>Go where one will on the Pacific slope, at long intervals widely scattered, here and there, will be found this grizzled memento of the old days.  Perhaps it may be sitting on a bench in the shade in the neighborhood of the old Plaza at San Francisco, and there he will refer to the metropolis as "this town," and generally speak of it to you as to one who must of course readily recall the time when it was a little place, as he does.  Or you may find him in a chair in the rotunda of the Palace Hotel; a man with a wide slouch hat, a splendid gray beard, and a look of prosperity.  If one does not insist, and he be in the humor, he will amuse you for half an hour with desultory talk of those times whose annals have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:entered into the folk-lore of America.  Perhaps most prominent to his mind is that great day when the last spike was driven, and the first trans-continental line was finished across the wide expanse to California.  It was not expected, he says; it was not even dreamed of.  Nobody but a phenomenonally-endowed idiot would ever have conceived the project.  We thought the ships were good enough, and the little steamers that ran up and down the river.  This town was a big one in them days, and things was lively; but <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
145.sgm:, --since then--Lordy!</p><P>Then he will laugh quietly at their crudity and oddity, and tell you a little more of "them days."  He will remark upon the enormous prices then ruling, and of how he has paid a dollar a pound for flour himself; of the Chinese and their advent; of how none of the men of those times were poor, and none really rich; of the comities and rules that governed in a country absolutely without any other law, and of the funny things that daily happened to this or that Argonaut, now asleep in one of the old graves.  He tells you where the "heft" of the town was in those times, and how it looked, and ends with the remark that "we didn't have an idea of the facts in those days; not an <HI REND="italics">idea</HI>
145.sgm:," and gets up and goes away at the moment when you want him the most.</p><P>So far back as the annals of his family in America go, the ancestors of the present writer were all frontiersman, and he is therefore perfectly aware of the inadequacy of this chapter, or of any chapter that ever was written, to do justice to that class which is a distinctive product of this country, and which has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the vidette of all its greatness.  In common with all Saxon frontiersmen, the surviving Argonaut is a man misplaced in these times, but in his day he was the true representative of that sturdy valor which is now decaying in wealth and luxury; of that courage which then regarded danger and difficulty as incidents of daily life; and of the magnanimity which comes of the sharing of a common lot.  There will be no more of him while the world stands, and his name, in the country whose hills he first scarred with his toil, is overwhelmed in modern wonders.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.<LB>NOOKS AND CORNERS.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P><illus entity="a145-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE DESCENDANT OF A MISSION SOLDIER</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:</p><P>EARLY one morning I saw coming along the village street a figure that attracted my attention without being in the least attractive; one of the commonest figures of a place that is full of ancient oddity to the unaccustomed eye, and which is a kind of museum of those relics which pertain to the Californian past.</p><P>He was a little and dried-up man of something like 80 years.  Mounted like a manikin on the back of a big white horse, he bore before him a bunch of green corn-fodder, and turned in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:at the gate to a piece of low ground thick with walnut-trees, between the rows of which the soil was studded closely with that peculiar greenery which delights the peasant soul, and which, when finally realized upon, does not amount to any value whatever; pumpkins and peppers and onions, some spindling stalks of corn for roasting-ears, and all that miscellany which comes under the comprehensive head of "garden-sass," and which, so far as all modern experience goes, it is cheaper to buy than to raise.  His weazened face was covered with a short, grizzled beard; his head was crowned with a nondescript hat; his garments were old and clean, and he had the air of being about his business so early in the morning from a mere habit, being raised in that way and having always done so, and I conceived the idea that here, so far from his native hills, I had again encountered a kinsman of Sancho Panza, less that bodily appendage which the word "panza" is taken usually to mean.</p><P>A little later I perceived that it was going to be a busy day with Sancho.  He had an ancient hoe, through the eye of which the crooked handle went too far on the back side to be convenient for use, and the edge of which was demoralized by innumerable contacts with the casual dornick.  He was in the saw-grass beside the <HI REND="italics">acequia</HI>
145.sgm:, busily engaged in making a childish little dam of earth across it, and in expectation of the coming flood he should turn on he was barefooted.  There was not any water, the riparian proprietors above having temporarily taken the liberty of cutting it off for their own uses, but he went <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:on damming just the same, and was greatly interested in coaxing the infantile current that remained through his little notch in the bank, and in making it go as far as possible for the refreshing of three pumpkin vines.</p><P>And here I beg indulgence in the tedium of remarking that the ground in question did not need any water, but rather a "cultivator" with a mule attached, and afterwards a hoe that would pass inspection.  This man was but illustrating the ancient modes of Catalonia and California alike, and showing how a country whose great interest now is in railway rates under which to find a market for an enormous surplus, was formerly scarce able to raise more than enough for the sustenance of a sparse population who in their day possessed the choice of all situations and localities, with water galore.</p><P>Later, when I went over to pay him a visit, he was inclined to receive me distantly, if politely.  But when he had finished to the very lips the little brown paper cigarette with a grain and a half of tobacco in it, I gave him one of the American abominations, which are considerably bigger, and his heart warmed to me.  But he did not light the one I gave him, not for the reason the reader would have in not doing so, but because he wanted to get the entire good of it.  Having tucked it away in the recesses of his apparel, I am quite sure that, taken to pieces and economically administered, that same bit of Virginia long-cut-tinctured-with-paregoric lasted him two or three days.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>Sancho Panza, in California and elsewhere, always conveys to a stranger the impression of not knowing anything whatever.  He is, once started, garrulous without saying anything, and loquacious after the manner of a parrot or a crow.  His mind, like his life, runs round and round in a circle.  Remind him of something; assert a fact; and something by way of assent or protest may result.  I asked this man how old he was, and he replied that he did not know, adding the usual " <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
145.sgm:?"</p><P>"Yes, you do," I said; "you are seventy-six."</p><P>"No.  I am seventy-eight."  This without any reference to the fact of his not knowing but a moment previously.</p><P>"And you are distinctly Spanish."</p><P>"Yes, I am a Spaniard;" with some pride, and evidently gratified at my discrimination in a matter that required no guessing at all.</p><P>"You were born here, and so was your father."</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Si Sen&tilde;or; es muy verdad</HI>
145.sgm:;" and the old fellow began to look as though he intended to stop hoeing for a moment.</p><P>"And your grandfather was a Mission soldier and came with the Padres."</p><P>"It is true, that also; he was a soldier, and he came with the Franciscans.  Who told you?"</p><P>"Nobody."</p><P>And he did stop hoeing, and with his hands on his hips seemed hesitating whether or not he had better look into my antecedents as a sorcerer.</p><P>"Come," I said, "tell me what you know about those times."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>He removed his head-piece and began to collect his thoughts by fumbling for them in his hair.  Finally getting some of the facts together, he said there were four missions--the reader knows there were twenty-one--one at San Diego, one at San Luis Rey, one at San Juan Capistrano, and the last of them at Santa Barbara.  The two Fathers at Capistrano, he continued, went to all the others to say mass; they had charge of the whole business.  That being about the end of his very accurate historical information, he paused, but went on scratching his head, and saying, " <HI REND="italics">Si Sen&tilde;or; todas,--todas</HI>
145.sgm:."</p><P>The reader will understand that to every Spanish peasant his local priest is a bishop, or if he is not he ought to be, which is sufficient, and the places he has heard mentioned are practically the only ones there are, and as for the rest; well, <HI REND="italics">El Dios sabe</HI>
145.sgm:, and there an end.</p><P>"And about the Indians; were they many?"</p><P>"Los Indios?  --eron muchos, --muchos."</p><P>He pronounced it " <HI REND="italics">moon</HI>
145.sgm: chos," thereby betraying, a hundred years after, his family origin among the peasantry of Catalonia.  So I told him, at a venture but with an air of positively knowing, that his said grandfather was a Catalonian.</p><P>With still greater pride he acknowledged this statement also.  Every unlettered Spaniard looks upon his province as being the chiefest one of Spain, very much as some of our forbears regarded Virginia in relation to her sister States and the world at large.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<illus entity="a145-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AN INDIAN WHO STAID CONVERTED.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>I asked him the old question: what became of all the Indians whom he himself remembered having seen.  He replied at first with an expression which simply means that they were, and are not, indefinitely, but finally added that they all died.  His remarks on this point were strongly in the line of a universal belief among Californians; that the Americans when they came purposely brought with them a Pandora's box which contained but one disease, but that one of sufficient malevolence to make up for all the others which that unfortunate woman let loose upon mankind.  This belief will never be eradicated among the few old ones who are left to retain it.  The more educated smile at this notion, but in their turn allege that the Americans "robbed" them.  They do not say how, nor specifically when, and merely mean that provincial carelessness was pitted against the far-seeing wits of people who in those times did not usually come to California for their healths.  It is quite noticeable that the robbery has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:now ceased, and that, with all the intensity of modern speculation, the later Californian is quite proof against the highwaymen who come in palace-cars.</p><P>My friend with the hoe went on with his digging, having apparently told me all he knew or had heard in the course of seventy-eight years.  I give him briefly to the reader, not as a unique specimen, but as one common in all the corners of rural California.  He could discern no motive in my questioning except to pass the time withal.  The world was to him a thing vague, indefinite, unreal; a kingdom he never saw, an unread book.  But he was not crude.  The indefinable Spaniard was in his bones.</p><P>Away across the little creek there was a scattered collection of houses, placed here and there on the verge of the valley.  The yellow hills lay behind them, the sun beat down upon them, and around them there was not tree or shade in a land where in ten years a fig will grow to shadow half an acre with the broad leaves from which was made the first apron a woman ever wore.  But in California poverty is robbed of half its sting by a climate which renders something to eat the only actual necessity, and while the love of flowers is in the Spanish nature, a tree is too much trouble.  Nearly all of Spain is a treeless country.  The Spaniard has cut away the natural forest wherever he has wandered.  There is a saying that the sylvan gods have in the course of ages become so angry with him that now he and a tree do not thrive in the same locality.  The olive, the fruit that makes his face to shine with fatness, and the historic vine, are the only ones that cling to his waning fortunes.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>I began the day with the Catalonian peasant whose stores of varied knowledge I have imperfectly bestowed upon the reader, and now a further thirst was upon me to know more of the class the California tourist never sees.  Taking all risks of being supposed to be making parochial calls, I went my way across piles of melted adobe, through dismantled doorways, among all the debris of last winter's green-ness and last generation's decay, toward the little creek whose sweet waters seemed to have sprung somewhere out of dryness, and to hurry swiftly away to suicide in the sea.</p><P>On my way I passed a little adobe where unquestionably there was an assortment of dogs.  A huge and hideous tawny monster with but one eye lay basking in the sun, too old and too decrepit to pay attention.  But a pert little one, a "cute" dog without a hair upon his back, came out and raised an outcry.  Then an old woman appeared in the doorway and observed the situation.  A single glance would convince the most skeptical that she was not an amiable old woman, but she took that little dog to task with some of the most voluptuous phrases of the Spanish tongue.  "Come hither thou little thief," she said.  "Hast thou no shame, to use thy tongue against a gentleman who but passes by?"  Doing the best I could, I thanked her, and the little dog retreated past her within doors, receiving as he went by an adroit flip of his owner's apron which must at least have hurt his feelings.</p><P>A little further on I met in a shady lane near the stream a man who rode a horse and was leading <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:a second.  There was a muddy place, and we met on opposite sides of it.  He stopped his cavalcade with a sudden pull, and bade me pass first.  In a narrow place on the other side two mounted <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
145.sgm: had roped a cow.  In almost any other locality where men catch cattle about the horns with a flying noose, and, indeed, where they never do, a footman may go round as best he can.  But these two untutored gentlemen proceeded to pull the cow out of the way bodily, and wait until I was past the difficulty.  In an instant they were gone the way I came, the cow protesting.  One of them pulled her along without much difficulty, and I regret to add that the other seemed to have her by the tail, and that he offered her an inducement by twisting it gently, and with an artistic appreciation of the effect of caudal torsion upon the average cow's feelings.</p><P>As I came nearer one of the little houses the effect was that of a picture seen somehwere long ago and almost forgotten.  Four people sat in a row on the edge of a little porch; a man, a woman, a boy and a girl.  The man leaned his arms upon his knees as people do who are accustomed to seats without backs, and the woman's chin was in her palms.  The two children had the attitudes of youth the world over, and the girl was a comely child.  But they were not Californians, but Mexicans.  No one who has often seen the Aztec countenance will easily forget the indescribable something which marks its lineaments.  There is the same similarity in all Mexican faces that there is in the faces of Egyptian sculptures, and there is, besides, a real or imagined kinship between the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:lineaments of the Egyptian and the Mexican.  The last is a face that causes people to come away and say that the curse of God rests upon the Republic of Mexico.  <illus entity="a145-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A "MESTIZO."</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:It is an impression they have, drawn from an unknown source.  The native Mexican is not a laughing man.  A sadness dwells in the universal countenance; an inheritance, perhaps, from the old days of communal slavery when the Inca was lord of all; the times when the huge cylinder of carved granite which lies in an open court in the City of Mexico had a side of it made smoother than the rest by the dragging over it of bodies for human sacrifice.  The native Mexican is also a man of greatly more ability than he has ever been given credit for.  It must be remembered that he was subjected to the demoralizing rule of Spain from the Conquest of Cortez to the year 1821, and yet recovered his country; that there are nine million Mexicans and less than two millions of Spaniards in Mexico now; that the greatest man Mexico ever produced, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:Benito Juarez, a name venerated in the remotest mountain hamlet, was an "unmixed" Indian, and the cast of his face, resting beneath glass in the National museum, shows all the sadness which marks the universal countenance of his ancient race.</p><P>And this man and his wife were Mexicans, and I wondered how and why he came here.  He told me in his first remark, and seemed unwilling to be mistaken for one of Spanish lineage.  He came, as a soldier, to assist in marking out that boundary between the two countries whose homely last monument stands at the point where probably Junipero Serra first saw the harbor of San Diego.  The theme started him upon his country and its ups and downs, and the subject of his profoundest hatred I found to be old General Santa Ana.  He had it mostly wrong, and his accusations were not based upon the facts of the case.  That man was undoubtedly bad, but he did not intentionally lose the battle of Buena Vista, or sell Texas at so much per square league, or line his private purse with California.  In his vehemence this man named over to me all the territory Mexico had lost, and counted the prices on his fingers, and told me why until I felt ashamed of myself, and his woman sat and listened, and kept tally by nodding her head.  He knew more than my Catalonian friend had ever heard of, and wherever he was wrong he stuck to it.  But when I told him I had seen the place where Maximilian was shot the woman came closer and listened, and ejaculated " <HI REND="italics">y la pobre Carlotta</HI>
145.sgm:," with a sigh.  The "touch of nature" which "makes the whole kin" exists in California, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:in the heart of the wife of an ex-private of the Mexican army, as it does everywhere else.</p><P>Like all his class, this man was also poor.  He told me sadly that he owned nothing and was a day-laborer.  I tried to argue the case with him, and pointed out how he might thrive by renting the very soil he lived on.  He had the usual story: "I need ploughs, and horses and seed, and where is the money to buy them?"  Would that some profound philosopher would explain to me why everywhere outside the lines of Saxon blood there exists this peculiar fatalism as an attachment to poverty.</p><P>There is one exception in the grotesque personality of the remarkable man from China.  California, where these others toil and starve, is his bonanza.  He can not explain, for he never learns to speak the English tongue, or the Spanish either, and he is besides not a man of explanations.  Alone, or in pairs, he comes creeping unheralded down the valley, and his earliest care is to see some land-proprietor.  So early in the morning that the fog almost hides him, one may see him on hands and knees, creeping about between his rows, never stopping, never looking up, working always.  Just opposite this Mexican, on a little piece of ground deserving only the designation of a "patch," two Chinamen have earned eighteen hundred dollars in a single year.  He is not a man of conventions; he never resolves this or that; he knows nothing about the labor question; he is hated for these very negative qualities, and imposed upon and oppressed in every conceivable way, yet by steady persistence he is the uppermost man in that savage contest that nature <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:and circumstance and organized society are waging against the toil by which the world lives.  One is astonished at the results of his barbarian intellect in a land where he has no friends, and looking upon him one is half converted to the theory that the whole labor agitation is a mere Utopian search for a recipe that shall enable a man to be a producer and yet not labor.</p><P>Everywhere is John, friendless yet happy.  Long ago he washed over all the tailings of the Argonaut, and tied his gains so securely in a corner of his raiment that no one knows whether he or the original miner got the most.  Long ago he knew every nook and corner of California, and was a feature not alone of the by-streets and alleys of the town, but of all the rural nooks.  The triangular acre left to the wild mustard at the mouth of a canyon is his world, and the neglected corner cut off by the highway or the railroad, his empire.  He is almost of the old times, for he came among the first and was the perpetual victim of the Argonaut.  Tens of thousands have come and gone since then; a host so lacking in individuality that they seem an endless procession of automatons.  He is in no sense one of the proprietors of the country, for his opinion of it is that he does not wish to own it.  He is a pilgrim and a stranger, with an affection for his native land which is as unusual and unique as all his other qualities are.  Everybody knows him, not as an individual, but as a Chinaman.  He takes the back seats, and the sides and corners, and the alleys and the tumble-downs.  The native Californian, the Mexican immigrant, the Mestizo, all look down upon him and laugh at him, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:while he makes more money every year than they will ever see, and it is very largely his toil, and certainly not theirs, that has made the present California at which they are surprised, and which they will never understand.  Presently, whenever he wants it, he will have this Mexican soldier's house, and till the ground the other is afraid of, and pay a cash rent, and go back to China wealthy.</p><illus entity="a145-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A COUNTRY FAMILY.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>Originally intended as the land of Nothing-to-do, rural California shows everywhere to-day the remains of that dissipated idea.  Under a spreading sycamore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:somebody is always slowly washing clothes.  Upon the stony highways somebody is always walking slowly along.  Wherever there is a bench a row of persons is always sitting.  There are two words indispensable to life, and one of them is <HI REND="italics">todavia</HI>
145.sgm: --"not yet," and the other is <HI REND="italics">man&tilde;ana</HI>
145.sgm: --"to-morrow."  It is not that there is any intention of not doing at all; the idea is merely to wait a little, to see about it, to hasten slowly.  For the same man who says " <HI REND="italics">man&tilde;ana</HI>
145.sgm: " is capable of prolonged hardship without complaint, or of daily doing the same task over and over for fifty years.  His head is idler than his hands.  His few inventions are all in the domain of common life, and none of them seem traceable to a single individual.  All he knows his father knew before him; all he believes is the property of the ages; all he suffers is the common lot.  There was never before such a unity of purposes, opinions and ways in an entire community as exists in one of the places forgotten by the "boom."  There are no "cranks."  Every man goes without suspenders, and every woman has a shawl over her head.  The scene is pleasant and the idea attractive.  Except a mountain village in New Mexico, or mayhap a coast hamlet in New England, there is no other corner of America where this peace in daily life may be found.  It is impossible to convey a sense of it in words.  It is accompanied by a picturesqueness not only of scene, but of language and thought.  There are no books here, yet the old provincial Spanish remains unchanged through the years.  There are no newspapers, yet there is always something to talk about.  There are no anniversaries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:of their own, yet all the Fourths of July come and go unnoted, the one ridiculous gala-day of a people who have no church "fiestas," and who can do no better.</p><P>From the times of Miss Hannah More and "The Shepherd of Salisbury Plain," there have been many references to "decent poverty" as a virtue.  But to carry the idea to the extent of everybody being decent and everbody poor in a whole community, has not been thought of.  The idea is nevertheless carried out fully among that small remainder of the old times whose destiny it probably is to see the last of their kind who shall ever live north of the Mexican boundary on this continent.  It is one of the puzzles, and the Americans can no more understand such a situation than the Californian can, in his turn, understand the ways and ideas of the Saxon.  There is neither luxury nor squalor, neither plenty nor want.  Where so much can be obtained, so can more likewise, and the process is almost endless.  It is an axiom; selfevident and indisputable.  Yet you must come away from the by-ways of California knowing that it is not an axiom, and not necessarily true.  One has seen no squalor, heard no complaints, been asked for no alms, and has been treated as an equal.  The things he has about him have excited no envy, not even remark.  Ignorance and dignity, courtesy and independence, poverty and self-respect, have been found together.  You have found no woman who did not know all the rules of ladyship, and no man who wore his hat indoors.  Every man or woman you have met has saluted you without either solemnity or effusion, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:and every little boy or girl has behaved as though carefully trained in good society.  Yet they have lived, in all their generations, and time immemorial, in Spain and in California, beyond the extremest verge of luxury and outside of the remotest traditions of wealth.  Decency, to some others an unattainable thing even after penury has gone, is to these an inheritance, and that elderly shepherd of Miss More becomes a bit of pious tawdriness by comparison.</p><P>The time must come, and soon, when there will be no more of this.  The nooks and corners where it yet abides are passing away.  Names, the mellifluous names they deliberately composed when there was plenty of time to stop and say them in will remain, even though San Bernardino has become "San Berdoon," and Los Angeles "Loss Ang," and San Francisco submits to a hideous abbreviation which dates back to a period when the commodity of time first began to be scarce in California.  Since 1821 Spain has been slowly reclaiming her own again, not from across the sea, but through the cemetery and by Plato's doctrine.  In a brief twenty-five years the very nook I have in my mind as I write has lost eight-tenths of its people, never returning and never replaced; dropping out of the unequal contest and away from the changed conditions; dead from Saxon contact; lost; gone.</p><P>This is but a little interior picture of Spanish fate and Indian fatality that may be reproduced a thousand times from the histories that cover only a hundred and ten years.  The strange thing is that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:alleged reasons for the disappearance of the Indian are not those which entirely account for that of the Spanish-American.  As for him, the few that may be included under the head of the "rising generation" are going by the shortest roads.  The "saloon" compounds are his very evident passports.  But all Spaniards, by immemorial custom, drink, and something in addition is also to be looked for.  His race has fallen into a sleep.  Repose in his surroundings, changeless custom, immemorial tradition, life in death, rest, peace, are his requirements.  When I come again the old Catalonian will have ceased to irrigate his little patch, and the Mexican soldier will have joined his regiment.  The singers of love-songs in the wayside saloon will have ceased, and the dogs will have lost a mistress.  The whole locality will be changed and nothing but the hills, the winding valleys and eternal sunshine will seem familiar.  Tradition and a Spanish name will remind the passing stranger, perhaps, that here for more than a century flourished all the quaintness of monk, soldier and peasant, and that from here departed the last days of Old California.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.<LB>AN OLD DIARY.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P><illus entity="a145-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"THE ORIGINAL CALIFORNIAN."</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:</p><P>THERE was among the Franciscan Friars who were at the College of San Fernando, in Mexico, awaiting preparations for the great Missionary expedition to Alta California, one named Palou.  There is no telling precisely what this priest's especial education consisted in, or how it happened that it devolved upon him to become the historian of the beginnings, but he was so, and in vigorous and beautiful Spanish narrates the story of that first journey into the wilds of California in such a manner that a gentleman whose acquaintance with the region is wide and long, has told me he could take Palou's journal and locate with reasonable certainty every camping-place of the first expedition.</p><P>But the story was not written for publication, or as history, and is tedious after the manner of the times and the Spanish fashion.  Cervantes himself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:lacked the faculty of condensation, and there are pages of insufferable tedium in every old Spanish author.  Long before starting chapter after chapter is used in telling why such and such a thing was considered best; what the <HI REND="italics">Virey</HI>
145.sgm: thought and what intentions he had; and <HI REND="italics">mientras</HI>
145.sgm: this and <HI REND="italics">por supuesto</HI>
145.sgm: that.  A man named Galvez was Virey, or viceroy, and through and by him was done everything that was done.  He was a man of ability, conscience and prudence, with an enormous faculty for detail and a genius for inventories, who doubtless saw in his mind every need of a system of missions the most extensive ever planned by one man, and who pre-arranged every camping-place, and yet knew no more, nor did any of them, of the geography of the region or the character of the natives, than does a reader of this page who never saw California.  Indeed, he did not know so much.  No adult need now be puzzled by the problem of where to find Monterey.</p><P>The information Galvez had to go upon and make all his minute arrangements by; the data upon which he ordered equipment, money, provisions and soldiers; was contained in the record of the voyage of Vizcaino, who "surveyed" and named the Bay of San Diego only a hundred and sixty-seven years previously, had miscalculated its latitude and longitude, had mislaid the port of Monterey so seriously that the Padres could not find it, and who, with all his mariners and "pilots," had been long beyond later explanation or recall.  This is but an example of the disposition of those queer times to follow precedent and observe routine, and is, besides, pre-eminently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:Spanish.  They spent a year or two in perfecting minute arrangements for the occupation and conversion of a country they had never seen, in implicit reliance upon the word of a sailor who seldom or never went on shore, and for the sole reason that Philip, a King of Spain, had sent him, and nobody had gone with equal authority since.</p><P>They knew nothing of a matter of still greater importance--the character of the California Indians.  It is certain that had these been kindred of the Iroquois or Hurons, or even of the Mojaves or Piutes, the destruction of the expedition would only have occupied them for a matter of two or three hours.  For the Spaniards were but a handful in the mountain wilderness, and their weapons were not as effective as the Indian bow-and-arrow.  They carried tents and litters, and were burdened with the care of what Palou refers to as " <HI REND="italics">las bestias</HI>
145.sgm:;" the drove of long-horned cattle which were the best things Galvez had thought of.  Besides their camp-equipage, they had their church furniture,<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
145.sgm: more bulky and more necessary perhaps than the reader imagines, and said mass every morning before starting out on the day's march.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1"><P>Palou gives the following list of necessaries provided and carried to San Diego:</p><P>Seven church bells; 11 small altar bells; 23 altar cloths; 5 choir-copes; 3 surplices; 4 carpets; 2 coverlets; 3 <HI REND="italics">roquettes</HI>
145.sgm:; 3 veils; 19 full sets of sacred vestments; 17 albs, i. e., white tunics; 10 palliums; 10 amices; 10 chasubles; 12 girdles; 6 cassocks; 18 altar-linens; 21 <HI REND="italics">purificadories</HI>
145.sgm:, or chalice-cloths; 1 pall-cloth; 11 pictures of the Virgin; 12 silver chalices; 1 silver goblet; 7 silver vials for sacred oil; 1 silver casket for holy wafers; 5 silver basins, or <HI REND="italics">conchas</HI>
145.sgm:, for baptism; 6 censers, with dishes and spoons; 12 pairs of <HI REND="italics">vinagres</HI>
145.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>A quaintness not to be conveyed by any translation pervades the minuteness of the diary of this first white man's journey in California.  It was on the afternoon of the twenty-fifth of March, 1769, that the expedition started out from Villacata through the cactus, northward into the unknown.  Sometimes two or three little children start to go somewhere.  They have entire confidence in their ability to find the place, and know whom they shall meet, and what they shall have, when they get there.  They take the world as they have found it so far, and are undaunted by difficulties they do not know of.  Sometimes they really succeed in making the journey.  So did these Missionaries in reaching San Diego, and even finally Monterey, and the Providence that guided them can not have been very different from that which protects little children.</p><P>Meantime, amid all these pious desires and counselings about petty things, and looking out for bells and chalices and robes and altar-cloths, affairs of so much more moment were progressing on the opposite side of the continent that it is very doubtful, in the full light of the past, whether or not the enterprise of the Padres and the Virey affected in the least the final result as we see it now.  They added an illuminated page to history, with "D. O. M." and a cross at the top, and "REQUIESCAT IN PACE" at the bottom, while the Atlantic Saxon was setting down the first lines of a long, red, momentous historic chapter.  For George III. was King of England.  All non-believers in the divine right will excuse the not original remark that he was a very addle-headed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:monarch, who about these years, 1768-69-70, was unconsciously, with all the assistance he could get from his ministry, laying the pipes, so to speak, for the final floating over California, and all the rest of this continent, of a nondescript banner whose size and shape, whose azure field and stripes and stars, had not yet been dreamed of.  While this cowled and helmeted company were starting out on this coast, twenty-five newspapers, mostly devoted to sedition and rebellion, were being printed and issued on the other.  The tea excitement was beginning.  The citizens were refusing to comply with the provisions of the "Quartering Act," and were turning out of doors the soldiers they intended to begin killing as soon as convenient afterwards.  Before the hidden Monterey was finally discovered the "Boston Massacre" had occurred, and a thing the Virey never heard of, and would have contemplated with horror if he had, a "Liberty-pole," was cut down in Boston by the imported "hirelings" who might better have left it stand.  While the San Carlos and her sister-ship lay in the Bay of San Diego, carrying their sacred stores and their church bells ashore, and burying their scurvy-slaughtered seamen in the yellow sand, on the opposite coast the Gaspe&acute; was being burned to the water's edge.  The bells upon one coast were ringing in the advent of monarchy; those of the other were ringing it out.  Mass was saying beneath tents and trees, accompanied by the noise of fire-arms, while to the same accompaniment the Puritan divine was explaining, to suit himself and his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:hearers, the meaning of that Liberty which is in the gospel, wherewith ye are made free.</p><illus entity="a145-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE MOTHER MISSION: SAN DIAGO.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>Strangely enough there are in Palou's journal no exclamations of pious joy at the long-dreamed starting out of that expedition which was to bring the "gentiles" unto the light.  They said mass and departed to the North-north-East, carrying with them all the water they could, and stopping the very first night only a league away, "where there was no forage for the beasts."  This journey which began on March 25th, 1769, has been skillfully made the most of by very excellent and well-informed, but enthusiastic writers, but to whomsoever has chased Apaches through the mountains of New Mexico, or made the overland journey to California in the early times, there would seem nothing very appalling about it except its uncertainty, and nothing heroic except its object.  It required to make it from the date <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:mentioned to the 14th day of May; fifty days; and the distance traversed, including a thousand twistings and turnings, was about six hundred miles.  No cold impeded them, or rivers, or swollen streams.  It rained, and even that hindered them so grievously that they waited in camp until it ceased.  There is much simplicity in the chronicler's accounts of how "we were all made very wet," and "it rained so hard this night that the Sen&tilde;or Commandant invited me to put my bad tent under his good one," and "everything being very wet, we did not march today, but waited for our clothes to dry."</p><P>As in hundreds of journeys since made, the finding of water was the chiefest difficulty, but, so far as the record shows, not a single night was passed without sufficient for themselves, though the poor "bestias" had sometimes to wait until morning.  This was the beginning of that endless record of "dry cramps" which every soldier and plainsman knows, and also of that old story of grass-and-no-water, and water-and-no-grass which have alternated with each other in endless monotony through the entire "trail" history.  Sometimes they had them both in abundance, with "llanuras," and plenty of valley land, and then the chronicler, after looking the country over, sets it down in his journal that it would be "a good place for a mission."  One is amused at the closeness with which the country is observed and described to this end, and with how few mistakes, and the language is such as would be used to this day by a practical man to describe a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:situation available for farming purposes in California.  In all the years that followed no missions were planted in Palou's places.  To this day his route remains almost as tenantless as it was in 1769, and only the ranchman's cattle have drunk of his streams and "pozos," and pastured upon his "llanuras" and "buenas tierras" few and far apart.  But he was moved by a holy covetousness whenever he saw them.  The growths he describes by Spanish names with superior aptitude and judgment, and sometimes he alights upon those " <HI REND="italics">rosas de Castilla, cargados de rosas</HI>
145.sgm: "--roses of Castile, burdened with flowers--which almost excite his enthusiasm.  A monk and the abstruse sciences may go together with some propriety, but when he sets flowers down in his journal, not in direct connection with Mary and her month of May, one may know that he sighed as he wrote, and thought of his youth and his native land.</p><P>There is a notable difference in Palou's expressed opinions of the country as he comes further northward.  The second day out, losing patience with a monotony and barrenness than which there is hardly any more oppressive in the world, he makes the oft-quoted remark that "it is a country in which nothing abounds but stones and thorns."<ANCHOR ID="n11-2">*</ANCHOR>
145.sgm: It is almost the only sign of weariness in a diary that was written every day on the spot, out of a peripatetic inkhorn, and under circumstances that usually require some retrospect to give them anything like a tinge of rosiness.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:barrenness of the route seems then to have been largely where it is yet; south of the Mexican boundary line; and the Spaniard of a later day, with the singular fatality that accompanies him, lost most of the good and kept the bad.  Even on that day when the monk tried all the afternoon to make some "Hostias;"--some wafers of flour with which to celebrate the mass--"and did not succeed in taking out a single one that was fit," he makes no remark except a reference afterwards to his <HI REND="italics">mala suerte</HI>
145.sgm:; his "bad luck;" and merely adds in the next day's record that they went without services that morning.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-2">"La tierra sigue como las demas de la California, este&acute;ril, a&acute;rida, falta de zacate y agua, y solo abundante de piedras y espinas."</NOTE>
145.sgm:<P>But it is the Indian, the utterly abandoned aborigine of those times, who especially invites his attention.  The journal inevitably gives the reader the impression that there were many of them.  They appear almost every day, and always a new tribe, with some new variety of savage amiability or diablerie.  He touches them only here and there descriptively, and manages to convey in a few words a graphic picture of them and the nature of the souls he and his companions had come to save.  Wherever at that time he had procured the word " <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
145.sgm:," as expressive of a congregation of Indian dwellings, he had it, and it has descended to all who have since lived where such settlements are to be found.  They were encountered almost every day.  Sometimes their inhabitants were inclined to be friendly, at others a little inclined to inquire at a distance the nature and character of their visitors.  The expedition had with it some natives of the peninsula of California who had already been reformed at one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:of the missions of that country; say at Muliege, a name the present writer, if the reader, would not recognize or even pronounce, had he not once had the doubtful pleasure of visiting the spot, where now remains not the remotest indication of the presence of Jesuit, Franciscan, or aborigine.  These Indians grew ill.  Some of them died.  Some of them " <HI REND="italics">huyeron</HI>
145.sgm: "--ran away to join their people again, discouraged by unwonted wanderings from home--and after them, "misguided," the reverend journalist sends his blessing, couched in terms forgiving, but probably not appreciated by the fugitives had they known them, with their views of life, friends, and the sterile homes they had known from birth.  While they were sick they were carried in litters.  When they died they were given the rites of the Church, and their bodies were buried in the wilderness, "and at the place of their sepulture we planted crosses."</p><P>To all the Indians they met they gave the little conciliating presents barbarians love, and once or twice, when vaguely threatened, " <HI REND="italics">el Sen&tilde;or Commandante</HI>
145.sgm: " directed the soldiers to fire their guns, but not toward the savages.  This had the effect desired of scaring them away, and the expedition proceeded.</p><P>Once in a while Palou gives his private opinion of these people, notably those seen when near their journey's end at San Diego.  One aged native, he says, was found sitting on a rock by a rancheria, everybody else being apparently away from home.  When asked to guide them, the trusting savage got up and took his bow and arrows and cheerfully went along as far as his services were needed.  When dismissed with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:presents, the reading of the narrative gives one the impression that he complacently trotted back home again, "muy contento," and precisely as though he had known white men from an unknown world all his life.  Several times it is noted that the men were entirely naked, and the women nearly so.  Of others that they are "Indians very lively, jokers, childish, swappers or bargainers, deceivers and thieves."</p><P>There is sometimes a touch of Spanish humor, which, when it can be recognized by the alien at all, is the quaintest in the world.  "Hardly in the proper way," he says, "do all the men and women go about entirely naked, as was Adam in Eden before sinning, not having the least shame in presenting themselves before us without making any attempt at covering otherwise than as though the garment nature gave them was a court dress."</p><P>He tells of their houses, which he states with the gusto of a modern Western journalist were made of hay--" <HI REND="italics">zacate</HI>
145.sgm: "--and how immediately afterwards they discovered that these primitive dwellings contained inhabitants who were very active and lively, and great thieves.  One of them "stole from the soldiers, without anybody seeing him, some spurs and `sleeves' (arm-guards made of leather which soldiers wore), and from a priest who tarried here on a feast-day and said mass, the altar-bell and his spectacles, which he hid in the ground near the altar, and which cost much work in finding again, for which reasons they called that some Indian Barabbas."</p><P>This remarkably Indianesque specimen whose chicanery was thus embalmed in history, played his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:pranks on "el padre presidente" himself, on the journey in search of Monterey.  On such small points does history often turn, that one pauses in the reading of the quaint narrative to wonder what would have been the consequences had Father Junipero's big iron-framed "anteojos" never been found.</p><P>Of the gentiles found on still another day the reverend chronicler says: "They are very distinct from former ones, very pacific, humble and affable; during the day they were with us with as much confidence as if they had been with their own."</p><illus entity="a145-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DIGGER AND WIFE.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>And of others still succeeding: "They are Indians quite too lively and active, great beggars and very covetous of all they see which suits them, great thieves; they are great bellowers in their manner of speech, and when they talk they speak with shouts as though they were deaf."</p><P>The predominant animals of California are referred to in almost biblical terms as "conejos" and "liebres," and one thinks first of the Psalmist's "conies" and afterwards of those gray and alert creatures doubtless as plentiful then as now, who never allow a journey to become lonesome.  Whether by the term "liebres" he meant the pervading "gopher" of these days one can not precisely tell, but the pouched rodent who has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:galleried and mined the country over and over a thousand times, and who never tires in his tunneling, must have attracted his attention.  The Indian who lived far enough north sometimes made himself an imperial robe of rabbit skins.  It required seventy of them to make a single garment, and they walked into the traps he set for them with a carelessness which clearly indicated the cheapness of life among the rabbits both of those times and these.  Birds are also mentioned, not as important, but rather casually, and he amuses himself and the reader, by giving them Spanish familiar names, as though they could not bear others with any propriety in the presence of this expedition.  Indeed, the essence of Spain lives in Palou's journal unconsciously, and he judges even the Indians he was to convert from the Spanish view-point, and evidently forgets the natural difference between the moral standards of the Indian and the white man.  To the reverend Padre, these poor creatures were committing some mortal sin every day of their lives, and every hour of the day.  Lying, theft, and a shrewd and yet clumsy dealing with d&aelig;mons and witches, are among the virtues of savages.  Treachery and deception are boasts, and cruelty is a harmless amusement and pastime.  He whom they named "Barabbas" for peccadilloes which with any other red savage would have been exchanged for murder and rapine, suffered in his reputation from an ascetic view of virtue which he never appreciated even after his conversion, if, indeed, he ever came under the influences of the gospel.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>Setting down the points which occurred to him from day to day as he journeyed through the wilderness, the author of this old diary falls under but one criticism.  Unconsciously writing for the future, he does not say enough, and his conceptions are narrowed down to his one ambition, the sublime search for souls.  Now that this quest has had its day and is over and gone, now that these "gentiles" are dead and the missions abandoned to the past and decaying where they stand, one wishes that the journalist, with his command of the best resources of his beautiful mother-tongue and his clearness of perception, had not been a missionary at all, and that he had seen even more of those temporalities his brethren afterwards appreciated so well.</p><P>The diary takes the reader to San Diego, telling very briefly of the sensations and joys of reaching that haven, and producing somehow the impression that the issue had been considered a doubtful one, and that at least so much had been permanently gained; for even the ships waited for them doubtfully and they were filled with joyful surprise at seeing the ships.  It is, indeed, almost impossible for the present reader to rightly understand how blind and groping were these first journeyings in California; how the most intelligent could form no conceptions of the probable happenings of the morrow; how all the sea was an enchanted waste, and all the shore was a <HI REND="italics">tierra nueva</HI>
145.sgm: no civilized man had ever trod.  It is the contrast between then and now that adds so much historical interest to a priest's journal, and imparts a pathetic touch to early gropings in a land now so thoroughly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:known, and so much better than the Padre dared to think it was.</p><P>After San Diego comes the part which should have been so much easier, and was in fact so much harder; the search for the port of beautiful Monterey.  The wanderers could not find it, and returned suffering, sore and unsuccessful.  But they discovered instead, and without any idea of its importance, the real Bay of San Francisco, and Palou doubtless set it down as "a good place for a mission."  Vizcaino or Cabrillo had never seen it, and the splendid piece of land-locked sea-water, entered by its narrow gate, is for the first time certainly and authoritatively described in this diary of a monk upon whose most brilliant conceptions never dawned the dimmest dream of that which should follow the temporary and futile occupation of himself and his brethren.  All the world knows now how little impression the actualities made upon either the Franciscans or their fellow-countrymen generally.  For seventy-seven years no country was more entirely left alone by its owners and all the world beside, than New California.  The scheme which incubated for more than a century and a half, and which was nevertheless a kind of spasm when it was put into final effect in the expedition of which this old diary is the official record, left its political originators exhausted with the effort, and they died and did no more.</p><P>It remains yet further a historical fact that the missionaries extending after Palou and his companions in a long semi-apostolic succession for more than seventy years, specially desired thus to be let alone.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:They loved the autocratic power of isolation, and the unquestioned spiritual dominion which has been sweet to the heart of the cleric of every sect and time.  No enthusiastic and rosy descriptions seem to have been sent back to Spain through all these years.  They were reserved in all their fullness for another people and a later time.  Above all were heretics not wanted.  No student feels obliged to accept the opinion, when it is a matter of opinion, of any one man, though it be embodied in an article in the average encyclopedia.  If one did, and were inclined to go with the majority, he would readily understand that when in this ancient diary the reverend father pointed out the "good places," he had in his mind visions of the wine and oil that should flow therefrom, and the clerical happiness that should surround them.  But it is not true.  The toilsome journey is surrounded with every element of self-sacrificing heroism.  One may smile at its difficulties in the glaring light of the present, but so he also may at the recollection of the blunders he made last night in threading the familiar intricacies of his own chamber in the dark.  The first light that was shed on the Californian solitudes was from the camp-fires of this expedition of the good year 1769.</p><P>Nevertheless, the strangers came; strangers not Spaniards.  As early as 1830 they began to emerge from the deserts of the East like hungry shadows.  Bearded Russians drifted down from the icy solitudes which were theirs in the far Northwest.  Stranded sailors touched the shore and became enamored of it.  In the year which saw the last scenes of the religious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:history of California, five thousand persons crossed the endless plains to enter a land whose rocks were not yet known to be veined and crossed with gold.</p><P>The vexed souls of the Padres may rest in peace.  The act of the Mexican government was not necessary.  Sequestration would have come by the eternal law of circumstances, and had they stayed the missions would have been surrounded and engulfed by alien and heretical adventurers, and five more brief years would have seen the end of the halcyon rule which has had no paralled in the story of civilization, which illustrates the irony of fate, and which goes far toward convincing the cold and carping that he was right who said: "There are no such things as principles; there are only events.  There are no such things as laws; there are only circumstances.  A wise man embraces events and circumstances to shape them to his own ends."  Yet to the "wise man" who rightly sees, it rather seems that Palou's old journal forms the first scant human record of a drama that was set by the Almighty upon the green hills whose destiny He knew alone.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.<LB>THE ORIGINAL CALIFORNIAN.</HEAD>
145.sgm:<P><illus entity="a145-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE DIGGER'S ANTIPODE:--A PUEBLO WOMAN.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:</p><P>IN the Century Magazine for July, 1889, Mr. Frederic Remington contributed a chapter about Indians.  In closing he allows himself to express that sentiment which is almost universal among those whose fate has led them into anything like personal acquaintance with the tribes and kindreds of the original American, and says: "I thought then that the good white men who would undertake to make Christian gentlemen and honest tillers of the soil out of this material would contract for a job to subvert the processes of nature."</p><P>In the same issue of the same magazine (see page 471) this and other opinions of Mr. Remington are duly apologized for by a writer who must have seen the article in manuscript, and who made his apology in deference to that peculiar form of public opinion which knows the American Indian for the reason that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:it never saw him, and understands him perfectly because it is not acquainted with him, and accounts for itself and its existence by promulgating the unassailable creed that it believes "in the development of public opinion not only favorable to an award of exact justice, but in knowledge of the real character and capacity of the Indian himself," and also that "what can be done with the Indian is no longer a matter of speculation.  Much has been done in education, in agriculture, in social organization, and in diffusion of the spirit, occupations and habits of civilized men."</p><P>That coterie of the unconverted which is composed of such as do not know the Indian because they are personally acquainted with him, and do not understand him because they have lived with him, await the facts, circumstantial and in detail, which should follow every such enunciation of the creeds of the philanthropists.  They never get them, and are denied the pleasure of either disproving them or of personally conducting a committee of philanthropists into the fastnesses where alone they may be found, if at all, and whither the philanthropists hesitate to go by themselves, and, in fact, do not go, notwithstanding the aforesaid advancement in "the spirit, occupations, and habits of civilized men."  It has been discovered that it is of very little use to visit Indians unless one comes back.  The "friends of the Red Man" are anxious to do him a substantial benefit.  Their way of doing it has been to "awaken public sentiment," and they have not very well succeeded except in the mistake of regarding the Pueblos as "Indians," and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:declaring them to be examples in proof of their position.  The Pueblos have not materially changed in perhaps a thousand years.  It is doubtful if they are "Indians" at all.  The public has for many years been asking for something more statistical and exact than either Uncas or Ramona.  There was also one lone and solitary Indian saint.  <illus entity="a145-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PUEBLO GIRL.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:Her name was Katherine Te-gah-Kou-i-ta, and she belonged to a tribe in its day subject remotely to the Christian amenities of the New England where most of the friends, the influential friends at least, of the Red Man and Brother have always dwelt.  This saintess was so good that "she mingled dirt with all she ate:" not in the casual tribal way, but so that the viands really tasted of it to her; and thus died, half-suicide and half-martyr, yet probably only of acute inflammation of the duodenum, and the general public declines to accept her as an advanced example of either.</p><P>So far as the great body of Indians is concerned, such advancement as they have made has been brought about not by the voice of philanthropy or the action of the government, but by the simple physical fact of the disappearance of the beasts of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the chase, and, notably, by the extermination of the bison.  They <HI REND="italics">have</HI>
145.sgm: advanced, for the simple mind of the child of nature has grasped in all its complexity the tergiversation that beef is beef, whether it comes from under a spotted hide or a brown and shaggy one. Corn is an old thing to them, and the squaws raise it anyway.  As to staying on his reservation, he simply don't, and only pretends to for reasons of policy.  He has adopted the hoe as he did the white man's gun, because it is more effective.  These, in brief, constitute his "white man's ideas."  There are not so many "outbreaks" as there were, merely because he is burdened with herds of horses and cattle which he does not wish to scatter and lose, and the situation has come about without his intention, and much to his personal disgust.  His education at Carlisle or Hampton ends in his re-adoption of the blanket, or, if it does not, it is time the frontiersman should be pilloried for the slanders he has been uttering in defying civilized mankind to produce a sworn roster of two dozen names of those who have graduated and yet retain the garments of their scholastic days.</p><P>There is, in some respects, an exception, and that exception is he who will be attempted to be described in this chapter.  He was the Original Californian, and he has avoided all discussion as to what shall be done with him now by mostly going himself before the question had attracted other than that merely cursory public glance which is given to a crime already committed.  In his prime he was unique in his savagery, and in his decay and death pathetic in his refusal of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:the conditions which suited or were accepted by all other peoples and tribes who were independent, treaty-making powers, and yet "wards of the government."  The Padres came and found him as he was originally, the "Digger," the completest savage the continent ever knew.  They did not investigate him beforehand, and knew him not when they came, and had the notions of him that were then or a little earlier current in regard to all Indians.  He was different from the others, very luckily for the missionaries.  During the entire history of the Franciscans in California he never killed any of them but once.  Their first entrance was unobstructed, and they possessed the entire land in peace.  This singular white mark across the page of American history is not to be accounted for entirely by the peaceful mission of the fathers, since conquest by occupation is nevertheless conquest, and so in a brief time have all the tribes save these regarded it.  They were too barbarous to have the idea of a property in the soil, too easy-going to observe continuous and gradual aggressions, and too timid to fight even among themselves, with all their numerous tribes, any other than bloodless battles of braggadocio and shouting between the lines.  When rarely they did fight nobody was much hurt.  They formed in two lines and made much noise, and tried to scare each other.  Sometimes two champions had a duel between the opposing forces after the manner of David and Goliath, and, honor being satisfied, both parties retired to their places and everybody went home.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>The Spaniards had, in their turn, the usual ideas of the times above referred to, and some of these notions are curious as matters of reference.  Early misconception of the Indian, not only in Europe, but by those who had full opportunity for observation on these shores was something almost grotesque.  They were judged not as Indians; not as one looks upon a barbaric curiosity; but by the standards of the times.  And among those standards was surely one which varied considerably from that of later times in regard to female loveliness, for it was said by some of the earliest who saw them that they were "tall, handsome, timbered people," and that among the women were some "that while young are verie comelie"--"many pretty brunettes and spider-fingered lassies."  "Brunettes," forsooth, and "spider-fingered" quotha.  Doubtless these wilderness-saunterers had not seen a woman for so long that possibly grease-paint and strings of buckskin seemed to them like silk and the folds of ancient lace.</p><P>Meantime the Indians returned these compliments by regarding the whites of those times as supernatural beings.  There seems to have been a general mutual misconception.</p><P>The general idea was that all Indians were really born white, like everybody else, and even the acute Jesuits thought their peculiar color was due to long exposure and "bear's grease."  One historian states that "all their babies are dyed with hemlock bark," and therefore had a literal "tan," and even William Penn gravely says that they were "dark, but by design."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>In those times all petty chiefs were "kings," and the tawdry and rancid "heap big Injun" was not the fiction and humbug of these irreverent days.  The reader knows that there was a question about the legality and propriety of the marriage of a girl who used to turn handsprings and stand on her head for the delectation of a frontier garrison, and known as Pocahontas, to a plain man who was only a commoner, merely because "Poky" was a "princess."  There is somewhere in old files still to be found an official letter of those days which was addressed to "The Emperor of Canada."</p><illus entity="a145-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FROM THE PENINSULA.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>Our Pilgrim Fathers had an idea that the incantations of their Medicine Men really could and did bring rain, and Roger Williams and Eliot were more or less inclined to the opinion that in them the doings of the Devil were graphically illustrated.  Firmly established as they were in the idea of the wandering personality of one Satan, and they themselves being Children of Light, the Pilgrims almost universally accused these savage necromancers of some hidden connection with him whom they called "ye Devill, which entereth into ye hearts of ye unconverted."  It was an easy solution, and convenient, theologically, of the simplest and most transparent of savage humbugs.  But Brainerd, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:Champlain, Whittaker, Josslyn, Roger Williams, and others, really believed in the genuineness of the Indian witchcraft and sorcery, and that the results of them were supernatural.</p><P>All the literature of these times in regard to Indians is a display of learned folly.  There was among other items, a discussion of their origin, which was returned to with tireless industry.  Adam being their natural father, and white people being, as they should be, those for whose origin there was no necessity of accounting, the question was where did Indians come from, and why were they as they were.  They were the children of Canaan, the son of Ham; the Lost Tribes, etc., etc., and the question that has never been settled, and which there is no great necessity for settling, agitated those grave minds severely.  Those primitive days, as compared with the present, are themselves a study in evolution, as ours will undoubtedly be to the days which are to come, with only the difference that we know we do not know, while those laborious and conscientious personages were sure of themselves.</p><P>It will become necessary in the course of a few pages to refer to the actual results of the missions to these original Californians, and the reader will find upon investigation that the saddest page of the story, on both sides of the continent at the same time, has similar outlines.  A very competent authority declares that "the patient heroism of the French Jesuits must always excite admiration, but their labors for the Indian race have produced no larger or more enduring result than those of others who have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:spent themselves in the attempt to elevate the American savages."  One of these was he who said " <HI REND="italics">Ibo et non redibo</HI>
145.sgm:," and went back to death among the human beasts whom he knew he could not convert, and who he also knew would kill him with tortures indescribable.  These Jesuits are especially mentioned because what they and the Franciscans could not do with the incorrigible savage could not be done, and was never done, by any others.  Bre&acute;b&oelig;uf was one of these, and he died brave and defiant amid tortures the most hellish that could be invented by that fiendish ingenuity that has descended through all the tribes of the American Indian to this day, some forms of which the present writer has himself seen, to haunt his dreams until his dying hour.  Marquette was one, dying at last on the shores of Lake Michigan, in the midst of a wilderness to whose throbbing commercial heart men now resort from every land.  But even the Jesuits did not succeed, much less the Protestants, some of whom used, in not unnatural indignation, to say that the way to change the savages was to cut their throats; merely an ancient version of the apothegm of General Sheridan.  They caught young Indians and sent them to England for training, and "they only learned the vices of the English."  A college was founded in Virginia, and ten thousand acres of land given it.  The principal of the institution was killed, and the very germ exterminated.  The students of every other school invariably relapsed into savagery just as they do now.  The utmost zeal went unrequited; the most conscientious labors were without avail, and in certain private letters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:which have been spared it is found that the missionaries sometimes spoke what they thought of the Indians of that day, and their sentiments do not greatly vary from the atrocious opinions of the nonphilanthropist of the border at the present time.  John Eliot, the "Apostle to the Indians," is the pride and praise of New England Protestantism, and one whose greatness as a Christian and a man can hardly be overestimated.  In robe and crown he doubtless stands now with his opposites in life; with Bre&acute;b&oelig;uf and Marquette and Jogues; in the shining ranks that guard the battlements of heaven, and in the service of Him who measures not by any human standard of creed or of success.  He translated the whole Bible into a dialect spoken by only a few thousand people, and thought it worth while, and it remained a few years afterwards an indecipherable curiosity which had never been used, and almost all his efforts were in the end quite as useless.  The piety of his Indian converts began and ended at a very low mark on the scale of right living.  His most trying experience was the moral instability of his people.  His educational schemes all failed, his only Indian college graduate died at twenty years of age, and others, after conversion, engaged in Philip's massacres, among them the very man who, as the only Indian printer that ever lived, had helped him to issue his famous Bible.  And finally the remaining converts to the faithful work of all these great and good men, though Christians only after a modified Indian standard of piety, proceeded to die.  Alike in New England and California, the virtues of the white man, his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:pieties, morals and beliefs have been as fatal to the Indian as his vices.  John Brainerd, another veteran Indian Missionary, was constrained to say at the last: "There is too much truth in the common saying, `Indians will be Indians.'"  It may be much to say, and shocking to the reader, but the great mass of testimony which must be elicited upon any careful examination of the history of the beings whom we call Indians, will show them changeless in a  character for which the word "awful" is only slightly descriptive; going steadily down to extinction and oblivion unchanged by any power, human or divine; with the forms and many of the acutest sensibilities and passions of men, yet in all their history incorrigible as the hyena whom the cage never tames.</p><illus entity="a145-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INDIAN TYPES:--APACHE CHILDREN.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>But since the whole early history of missions on the Atlantic coast is written in blood, and that of the Pacific is margined only by the marks of submissive stupidity and final decay, and both belong largely to the same period, some curiosity is excited upon the question of the difference, and why?  Serra and his companions went to meet death if necessary, and were willing to meet it, and it was intended that this beautiful solitude should be consecrated by the blood of martyrs if it should be the will of God.  Instead, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:they met with both a success and peace hitherto and since unknown in all the annals of the faith.  In thirty years or less their converts had become their servants, and they themselves were no longer self-denying missionaries, suffering in the cause, but <HI REND="italics">hacendados</HI>
145.sgm: wearing an ecclesiastical uniform, and managing vast and productive estates with a commercial acumen and an agricultural knowledge never before so compactly stowed beneath shaven crowns.  Success was so great that zeal was disarmed, monastic vows were forgotten, prayer and faith became merely forms.  The causes of so unwonted a victory over Satan among the gentiles might have been searched for in that realm of miracles which in those days constituted a close environment of the holy life and the monk's cell, had it not lain still more plainly in view in the character of the gentiles themselves, and it is not a new inquiry which asks after the personality of the first man who, for historical purposes, may be called a Californian.</p><P>Temescals; Guenocks, Tulkays, Socollomillos, Sueconies, Pulpones, Tolores, Ullillates, Matalanes, Salsos, Quirotes, Ahwashtes, Ahltomes, Tulomos, Romenores--all the barbaric designations of tribes the savage tongue could twist, represented one general character with differences only important to themselves, and that general character is expressed by the term by which the Americans called them when they came and found their successors;--plain "Digger."  This has until date passed for the general term applying to all that was aboriginal in California.  It conveniently expressed contempt and described a mode <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:of life at the same time, and at a period when, in regard to both Indians and Americans, it was not the custom to inquire too closely after particulars and antecedents.</p><P>The tribes were so numerous at the advent of the Franciscans that a new one was discovered, and often two or three, with every day's journey.  They all spoke differerent languages, and each occupied its own territory.  No attempt at any confederacy had apparently ever been made, and there was not even a crude and incohate form of government for each separate tribe.  Every soul in their country did as seemed unto him best, and yet never did those things which some rule or regulation or some other tribe of Indians, or some tradition, thought he ought not to do.  There was among them all no form of worship, and probably not any idea or theory of religion.  Bancroft says: "The Mission Fathers found a virgin field, whereon neither God nor devil was worshipped."</p><P>None of them worked, and they knew no form of industry.  Even in such a land as South California they were not tillers of the soil.  The spoils of their chase were gophers, rabbits, sometimes snakes, lizards, bugs, mice, grasshoppers.  Roots they ate, digging for them with their fingers and nails.  They caught fish on the coast, but had few or no boats, and used only that bundle of reeds called a " <HI REND="italics">balsa</HI>
145.sgm:," still to be found among their wild descendants on the upper waters of the Gulf of California.  They were sometimes armed with that universal and effective weapon of all ages and times, the bow and arrow, but with them it had its weakest form, and often was absent entirely.  Their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:habitations were such that the house of a beaver or the nest of an oriole were wonders beside them; rude and temporary shelters against the sun only; holes in the ground; burrows; dens; and most frequently they had none at all.  Their clothing scandalized the Padres by an ostentatious absence of any at all in the case of the men, and by only some "twisted strings in front, and the skin of an animal behind," in the middle of the body in women.  Sometimes they fended against the cold, such as there was, with a garment of mud from head to foot, and by the time it dried and cracked and fell off, it was warm again.  From the North to the South, the further one traveled the lower and more degraded he found the Indians.  Those whom the Franciscans converted and utilized were, save that they were of divers tribes and tongues, all of a kind, yet of so many kinds that details are conflicting.  There was an infinite diversity of tribal names.  Sometimes one tribe had three or four names, sometimes, apparently, none at all.  Often they had a designation for themselves, while all outsiders took the liberty of calling them by another and different one.  Occasionally they earned for themselves the reputation of being most prodigious and unnecessary liars by calling themselves by one name among themselves, and by another among strangers.  Every two or three leagues of the early missionary wanderings would show a new cluster of huts, or booths, or holes, inhabited by a new tribe with a distinct language, and the people of these " <HI REND="italics">rancherias</HI>
145.sgm: " were accustomed not to interfere with, or even to casually know, each other.  Near where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:now stands Santa Barbara there was a place known as Dos Pueblos, "two towns," where a little <HI REND="italics">estera</HI>
145.sgm:, or sea-swamp, lay between, and the inhabitants of the one village considered the inhabitants of the other to be foreigners, and the <HI REND="italics">esters</HI>
145.sgm: was an impassable barrier.  At the mission of San Carlos de Monterey there were eleven different languages spoken by the converts, and at San Francisco nineteen.  The Indians of San Luis Rey de Francia and their near neighbors of San Juan Capistrano, were totally different, and those of them that are left remain so, and yet all the tribes and kindreds came under the general designation of "Diggers" from an universal shiftlessness which made them akin.</p><illus entity="a145-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INDIAN TYPES:--PUEBLO SCHOOL-GIRL.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>On other details the sparse chroniclers who deign to mention them greatly differ.  One speaks of people "of an olive color, very light, with rather comely women."  Another tells of "broad-faced squaws of almost African blackness."  To this day one observer of old California will say that the Indians he has seen are very black, while another will think those of his acquaintance rather fair.  There are in mission annals no stories of any great lewdness of custom or life, but Powers, a writer in the Overland Monthly, has said that all their unmarried women were common property.  Thus, while the general life of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:original Californian might be fairly included under one description if it was bad enough, totally different impressions might be produced if the history was only that of a single tribe.  The rule was at one time accepted that all deteriorated as they lived nearer the coast, those in the northern interior being said to be "very superior, and approaching more nearly to the races of the plains," which, if they did, leads one to the conclusion that the idea of superiority is also a merely relative one.  No rule seems to have held in the matter of locality.  To this day one tribe is somewhat superior to another, or the reverse, quite regardless of habitat or visible cause, while the despairing axiom that "Indians will be Indians" holds good with all.  Ethnology comes forward with her reverend verdict and declares that in all probability the Californians were of a different stock from all other aborigines of the continent, and describes them cheerfully, thus: Complexion, darker than copper-color, nearly black; low, retreating foreheads; black and deep-set eyes; square cheek-bones; thick lips; very white teeth; long, coarse, black, bushy and abundant hair; very little beard, with exceptions to the rule; nose of the African type; figure of medium height and physical development average.  The incompatibility of this general figure with a personal docility which is beyond dispute, ethnology does not attempt to account for, and the curious "gentile" the Padres found and converted remains very much a puzzle in all except his passing away from among the denizens of earth.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>Almost naked, with only a strip of something round the waist, or dressed as Palou describes them; wanting no house save a shelter from the sun in summer and a hole in the ground in winter; knowing no law but lax custom, and almost without even the time-honored tribal magnates known as "chiefs;" they found sustenance in the offal and droppings of nature, and knew but two industies: the plaiting of <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
145.sgm: or rushes, and the preparation of acorns as the only standard food they knew.  The first they made aprons and built shelters of, the last was an acrid staple of the tribal larder which nobody seems to have eaten since.  One of the troubles of the Padres with them was that they would not wear clothes, discarding them and mis-wearing them the moment they were out of sight.  They had no "pots and kettles" of any kind, and the Monos and other tribes, whose remnants still linger, do not have or need them now.  The interior agriculturist, who at "killing time" heats water in a barrel by putting hot stones in it, unconsciously imitates the earliest cookery known to humanity.  The vessel was a water-tight basket in which water was made to boil and the acorns to cook by a continual putting in and taking out of heated stones.  The <HI REND="italics">metate</HI>
145.sgm:; the mill upon which the Mexican woman grinds away her life in making <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
145.sgm:; is the savage invention upon which these boiled acorns were made into meal.  Then they scooped out a hole in the running stream and set the basket of meal there until what we would call the tannin was washed out, boiled it again to make "mush," and ate it.  Nearly every acorn had a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:worm in it, and it was counted a good year when such was the case.  California is not a country very plentiful in grasshoppers, but such as there were in those times were made the most of.  They dug a ditch, and formed a line of young and old, and encircled the insects and drove them into it.  Their only provision for the gloomy season when grasshoppers were not, was to string them on a filament torn off of a yucca-leaf, like beads, and dry them.  There were lizards and "horned toads" in plenty, and occasional snakes, only two varieties of which are poisonous.  All these were so much food to the gentle aborigines.  When one now sees the grotesque bird called a "sage-hen," or "road-runner," skurrying across the dusty highway with the yellow belly of a horned toad gleaming crosswise in his beak, he can not but think of the hilarious avidity with which, under the same circumstances, both would have been chased by the early Californian.  When in these times you visit Yo Semite, walled with the colossal magnificences that make your inner consciousness throb whenever you think about them afterwards, and which teach you then and there that you have a soul, you may remember that it was an ancient fastness of the Californian, discovered first by white men who chased him thither.  The aborigines did not go there for scenery; it was a famous place for acorns, and, perhaps, grasshoppers.  There is no legend or tradition to indicate that he ever looked up, up into the blue beyond the immeasurable heights with any quickening of his sordid heart, with any new-born dream or idea of the possibilities of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:hereafter in which even the grandeurs Yo Semite must sink into insignificance.</p><P>And, withal, the Californian was semi-herbivorous.  He preferred of all diet the blossoming clover of the country, or what was called clover from its similarity to that familiar fodder of civilization.  Omnivorousness would therefore seem to be one of the original traits of humanity, and a freak not originating with Belshazzar.  These Indians are declared to have grazed in the herbage on all-fours like swine or cattle, and like them to have grown fat upon the diet.</p><illus entity="a145-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INDIAN TYPES:--YUMA CHILDREN.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>Like their kinsmen, the Yumas and Mojaves of the present, they had great skill in the making of baskets.  That which is to civilization almost an impossibility, the weaving of a vessel of grass or fibre which is water-tight, was to them easy.  They could also, in common with all other savages, chip arrowheads out of flint or obsidian, and grind shell beads and drill them.  The greatest skill in these industries existed before the missionaries came, and is found in the contents of graves made many a year before.  As in other regions, there are in these and similar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:finds strong indications that as the unnoted ages have passed they have seen successive tribes and kindreds come and pass away, each one without a record, a monument, or a line of history.  The last of the shadowy procession has now gone by, leaving only the impression that the story of the human race has never been written, but that even as guessed upon and imagined, it is the saddest story the silent &aelig;ons know.</p><P>These people had one unimportant characteristic which seems an index to the gentleness with which they welcomed the Spaniards.  They loved flowers.  The Padres found them garlanded and smiling beneath the very bloom which is the glory of their lost country to this day.  Perhaps the idea is not new, but if the reader will recall his facts from the general history of missions, he will find that wherever this redeeming trait has existed among savages there has been proportionately less difficulty in persuading them to adopt the only faith which teaches that love redeems.  The converse is so nearly true that redemption from the natural heathenism which loves blood and not bloom is rare, individual, and an exception.  But they also loved paint.  What are now the New Almaden cinnabar mines were in the old times the scene and cause of much of the tribal strife.  They wanted vermillion to make themselves pleasing withal, and were willing to fight for it.  But while, in these days, the love of paint has gone, that for flowers remains.  One can not always know whether the California cottage belongs to a Spaniard, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:or an Indian or a Mestizo, but there are always flowers there.</p><P>This Mestizo, meaning a mixed one, a half-breed, is not a curiosity, and not at all discreditable to his ancestors on either side.  The Spanish mission-soldier was a womanless man, and he took this flower-loving heatheness to wife.  Panza was a good fellow in a way, and the Roman faith knows no divorce.  One of the very strongest means of grace at the disposal of the Padres was the sacrament of marriage.  When one sees the Mestizo now he reflects upon the curious mingling there of two histories, and the days they recall, and this same man or woman is perhaps the most pathetic creature in the California of to-day, for they represent to the observer something they are not conscious of themselves.  Child of <HI REND="italics">conquistador</HI>
145.sgm: and of bug-eater, there is a story on either side which, separately considered, seem too far apart to ever be embodied in a single individual.</p><P>There is something so barbarously unique in the clouded and doubtful story of the original Californian, much that is so contradictory, that the genuineness of the best attested facts about him has been doubted or denied.  Almost all travelers have unhesitatingly placed him in the very lowest notch of the scale of humanity, yet against every superficial reason why he should be so.  There is no fairer land than California, but the argument that this fact has any tendency to produce better grades of humanity seems fallacious.  Here was a man who tilled no ground, yet was anti-nomadic in the strictest sense, so that each little tribe became an amusing and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:ridiculous parody upon the national idea.  He was idle because the fertility of his native land rendered toil unnecessary, and clothed and warmed and fed him.  Because of idleness he was not a fighter, for ambition and laziness do not go together.  Even in the aridness of Arizona do we find the remains of past civilizations, and the fever-haunted swamps of Darien are the burial-places of vast cities.  Further northward has in all time raged the fierceness of tribal warfare, and lived the thirst of glory and conquest.  Only in the golden mean of California do we find, simple, amiable, sordid, idle, not races of hunters and wanderers, but whole tribes of those who live upon roots and herbs and insects, who sleep in the sun, who burrow, who have no God and no devil, no law and no rights, who garlanded their heads with flowers, and who yielded to the first touch of the invader, and readily and easily became his converts and his servants.  Heaven or hell or angel they had not, and took what was given them.  Possessing themselves no theory of origin or destiny or fate, they presented no arguments against that which was brought to them.  "Tillage and fixed dwellings must precede the advent of a new religion and a new code of law."  So Eliot found, and the Franciscans gave both these to the Californians as a preliminary.  Eliot's Indians wished to know why God did not kill the devil and have done with him, and it is not known what answer the apostle made to this unexpected and logical irruption of the <HI REND="italics">bete noir</HI>
145.sgm: of theology, but these California amiables never thought of that heroic remedy for all human sin and sorrow.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P>And now, after a brief seventy years, came the inevitable end.  Everything the Indian had or knew had been abolished suddenly.  The routine of his aimless life, the want of custom of his race, was utterly changed.  Infinitely more than he had ever had before was given him if he would only work, and hell was made apparent to him if he would not, and he therefore worked and was given to.  Care was taken of him.  He was not required to think; woe be unto his immortal part if he did.  There came into his savage life a long roll of new wants and new fears.  He learned the taste of beef, and thereafter the lizard escaped.  The pulpy mission grape dwelt long upon his palate, and the herbs went ungathered and the roots undigged.  When he wanted any of these new things he asked and was told how he might acquire them: not by manufacture or the knowledge of any process, but at the hands of those fathers of good, the Padres.  Every Sunday he got them, even without asking, if he had been good.</p><illus entity="a145-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BABY AND CRADLE.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>More than two generations passed, and then the Californian had practically forgotten how his fathers had lived.  New wants had been invented and new habits formed.  The old would not do, and the new he could not furnish for himself unaided.  He was a child, needing every day advice, direction and care.  His barbarian independence was gone, but he had not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:acquired the secrets of civilization.  Here and there wandered the sandaled monks, directing, correcting, controlling, governing, as fathers among children, enforcing the law of conscience, administering the rule of right, always respected as the dispensers of a wisdom supernatural to untutored minds, and as the doers of a justice between man and man that even children might perfectly understand.  Among all questionings and doubts upon whatsoever points, it has never been alleged that the Franciscan friars were not beloved of their people.  The great Church they served unbends among the lowly, and becomes the Church of whatever tribe or race once admits its messengers.  And these messengers, Franciscan or Jesuit, without homes or wives or loves, consecrated in a truer sense than Protestantism can know to the work upon which they have been sent, live and die content among those to whom they have once borne that imperative message which they have not failed to deliver even through flame and torture.</p><P>Then came that time, heart-breaking, we may guess, which is expressed by the saddest word in the vocabulary of that California that was, and that will never again be.  Sequestration, long dreaded and long averted, came at last in the form of law.  It was, in a political and economical sense, right.  The Mexican government merely carried out the intention of the ancient and decaying power whose successor it was, and no government, however wedded to that ancient idea of the union of Church and State the fallacy of which was first perceived by the framers of the American constitution, could long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:endure that a whole province should practically be administered by the Church alone.  The ten years originally agreed upon had been prolonged to seven times ten.  The turn of the State was long overdue.  Sequestration meant the reversion of the lands until then used, but never owned by the missions, to the commonwealth, the making of the mission churches into parish churches, of the mission settlements into pueblos; "towns," and of the Indians into citizens.  It was, and has always been, and will ever be, contrary to the internal and enduring idea of the Church herself, but, as in Mexico and Italy in still later times, and in laws for which the South California sequestration was but a shadow, she will find herself continually opposed by those kingdoms of the earth which have not yet entirely become the kingdoms of the Lord and of His righteousness.</p><illus entity="a145-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOJAVE GIRL.</p></CAPTION>
145.sgm:<P>Yet was sequestration in California based upon a primal error so serious that it almost obliterates the wonderful story of the missions, and gives us pause as to why they should have ever been.  This error consisted in the supposition that in the Indian dwelt the capacity for becoming a citizen.  The law of sequestration was the decree of his orphanage.  Cast again upon the world which had once been his home, all his new wants aggravating the misery of a savage life, unable longer to avail himself of the advantages <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<illus entity="a145-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WHAT THE MISSIONARIES LEFT.</p></CAPTION>
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145.sgm:of the life of either savage or citizen, he died, and continues to die, until, of all the swarthy hosts that watched from their hills the coming of the crossbearers, scarce enough are left to furnish ethnology a clue.  The ready victim of disease, and the predestined of extermination, small-pox alone has laid them by hundreds in unknown graves.  The few instances of reversion to almost absolute savagery have been the only exceptions to that ancient rule which has worked with as perfect a certainty as any rule applied to human nature ever can, and which embodies an awful alternative.  Convert the American savage; even change his life by the preliminaries and preparations without actually converting him; and you kill him.  Leave him alone, and you also leave unchanged the fiat which dooms his soul.</p><P>Sequestration ended the days of the most perfect form of the Kingdom of Righteousness, at least from a churchman's view-point, which, so far, it has been permitted to the world to see since Saul, the son of Kish, became the heir of the Hebrew theocracy.  The Franciscans must have had their natural and human view of the situation.  They saw blasted not only the present situation, but future hopes.  One by one, or by twos and threes, they went away never to return.  Following the act, and between it and the deed, came all the proverbial evils of Spanish administration.  To go, and go quickly, was the end of the prayers and toils and hopes of Fray Junipero Serra.</p><P>There is a reason, perhaps, embodied in these few weeks or months of final waiting, why mission life is a blank as to all the details which go to make up a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:picture.  If there are diaries, journals, personal narratives, hints, descriptions, they are lost.  It was not the intention that they should be preserved.  Perhaps every cowled brother of them, sinking again into the brown ranks of his order, leaving his soul's children to wander and starve after a fatherhood that had become traditional, abandoning forever the fair land that had witnessed the peaceful triumph of his faith, wished in his heart that the California missions had never been.  He said: "Even so does man work, and with God is the result.  Let us go."  Then came the secular parish priests, without flocks almost from the beginning of their pastorates, and amid silence, isolation and quick decay, an unholy miracle of disappearance seems to have been wrought whereby the precious vessels of the sanctuary, the sacred jewelry which showed the exquisite handiwork of the past, the vessels of the temple, were coined into sordid half-dollars.  The reign of neglect and decay which continues yet then began, until now, in this good year 1889, the wanderer of another race and an alien faith sees around him somewhat of that which has been imperfectly described in these pages.  There is no past, yet that which we call the past cannot be recalled.  Let the visitor to California remember, carelessly perhaps, yet still remember, that about him lie the ruins of that time which is the connecting link between a past so remote that about it hangs a mist which is like the purple vail of the Californian hills, and that wonderful present which even they who see may not believe in, so much is it like the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<BACK><DIV><AD><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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145.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Joaquin Miller's Great Story</HI>
145.sgm:.</p><P>THE DANITES OF</p><P>THE SIERRAS</p><P>The book that gave birth to "the glorious climate of California,"</p><P>gave Mormonism its fatal stab, and swept "The Danites,"</p><P>as an organized body, from the earth.</p><P>BY JOAQUIN MILLER</p><P>Author of "SONGS OF THE SIERRAS," ETC.</p><P>12 MO PAPER COVER.  PRICE 50 CENTS.</p><P>Unquestionably the most powerful Story of Western Life that has</p><P>yet been written, and is sure of a LARGE and QUICK SALE.</p><P><HI REND="italics">FOR SALE BY ALL BOOKSELLERS, NEWSDEALERS and ON TRAINS,</HI>
145.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">or Sent Postpaid on receipt of Price, by</HI>
145.sgm:</p><P>BELFORD--CLARKE CO., Publishers,</p><P>109--111 Wabash Avenue, CHICAGO.</p><P>CLARKE &amp; SPENGLER, General Agents for the Pacific Coast.</p><P>834 Market Street, SAN FRANCISCO.</p><P>[Entered as second-class matter and can be mailed at one cent per pound.]</p></AD>
146.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-146</TITLE>
146.sgm:<TITLE>The Shirley letters from California mines in 1851-52; being a series of twenty-three letters from Dame Shirley (Mrs. Louise Amelia Knapp Smith Clappe) to her sister in Massachusetts, and now reprinted from the Pioneer magazine of 1854-55; with synopses of the letters, a foreword, and many typographical and other corrections and emendations, by Thomas C. Russell; together with "An appreciation" by Mrs. M.V.T. Lawrence: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
146.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
146.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
146.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
146.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
146.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
146.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
146.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>22-15468</LCCN>
146.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
146.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 681032</COPYRIGHT>
146.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Other</HI>
146.sgm: REPRINTS <HI REND="italics">Issued</HI>
146.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA.  <HI REND="italics">A</HI>
146.sgm: HISTORY <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm: UPPER &amp; LOWER CALIFORNIA <HI REND="italics">from their</HI>
146.sgm: FIRST DISCOVERY <HI REND="italics">to the</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Price</HI>
146.sgm: $10, <HI REND="italics">net</HI>
146.sgm:<P>VOYAGE <HI REND="italics">of the</HI>
146.sgm: SONORA <HI REND="italics">in the</HI>
146.sgm: SECOND BUCARELI EXPEDITION <HI REND="italics">to</HI>
146.sgm: EXPLORE <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: NORTHWEST COAST, SURVEY <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: PORT <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm: SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm: FOUND FRANCISCAN MISSIONS <HI REND="italics">and a</HI>
146.sgm: PRESIDIO <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm: PUEBLO <HI REND="italics">at that</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Price</HI>
146.sgm: $15, <HI REND="italics">net</HI>
146.sgm:<P>NARRATIVE <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm: EDWARD McGOWAN.  <HI REND="italics">Including a full Account of the Author's</HI>
146.sgm: ADVENTURES <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm: PERILS <HI REND="italics">while persecuted by the</HI>
146.sgm: SAN FRANCISCO VIGILANCE COMMITTEE <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Price</HI>
146.sgm: $10, <HI REND="italics">net</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">These works are printed in limited editions.  Copies are numbered and signed.  The typesetting is all done by hand, and the type distributed immediately upon completion of presswork.  The printing, in all its details, is the personal work of</HI>
146.sgm: THOMAS C. RUSSELL, <HI REND="italics">at 1734 Nineteenth Avenue, San Francisco, California.  Descriptive circulars sent free, upon request</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><P><HI REND="italics">This Book<LB>is one of an edition of four hundred and fifty</HI>
146.sgm: (450) <HI REND="italics"> numbered and signed copies, the impressions being taken upon hand-set type, which was distributed upon completion of the presswork.  In two hundred</HI>
146.sgm: (200) <HI REND="italics"> copies Exeter book-paper is used, leaf-size being</HI>
146.sgm: 9&frac14; &times; 6&frac14; inches; <HI REND="italics">in two hundred (200) copies, buff California bond-paper</HI>
146.sgm:, 8&frac38; &times; 5&frac12;;<HI REND="italics"> in fifty</HI>
146.sgm: (50) <HI REND="italics"> copies, thin buff Calfornia bond-paper</HI>
146.sgm:<P>THIS COPY is <HI REND="italics">No.</HI>
146.sgm: <HANDWRITTEN>99</HANDWRITTEN>
146.sgm: <HI REND="italics"> Exeter book-paper.</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics"><HSEP>(Signed)</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HSEP><HANDWRITTEN>Thomas C. Russell</HANDWRITTEN>
146.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P><illus entity="a146-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GOLD-WASHING IN WICKER BASKETS--AMERICANS &amp; HISPANO-CALIFORNIANS WITH INDIANS</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: SHIRLEY LETTERS <HI REND="italics">from</HI>
146.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA <HI REND="italics">Mines</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">In</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Being a</HI>
146.sgm: SERIES <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm: TWENTY-THREE LETTERS <HI REND="italics">from</HI>
146.sgm:<P>DAME SHIRLEY</P>
146.sgm:<P>(MRS. LOUISE AMELIA KNAPP SMITH CLAPPE)</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">To her</HI>
146.sgm: SISTER <HI REND="italics">in</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">And now</HI>
146.sgm: REPRINTED <HI REND="italics">from the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>PIONEER MAGAZINE</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P>WITH</P>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSES <HI REND="italics">of the</HI>
146.sgm: LETTERS, <HI REND="italics">a</HI>
146.sgm: FOREWORD, <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm:<P>TYPOGRAPHICAL <HI REND="italics">and other</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm: EMENDATIONS, <HI REND="italics">by</HI>
146.sgm:<P>THOMAS C. RUSSELL</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Together with "An</HI>
146.sgm: APPRECIATION" <HI REND="italics">by</HI>
146.sgm:<P>MRS. M. V. T. LAWRENCE</P>
146.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATED</P>
146.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO</P>
146.sgm:<P>PRINTED <HI REND="italics">by</HI>
146.sgm: THOMAS C. RUSSELL, <HI REND="italics">at his</HI>
146.sgm:<P>1734 NINETEENTH AVENUE</P>
146.sgm:<P>1922</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1922</P>
146.sgm:<P>BY THOMAS C. RUSSELL</P>
146.sgm:<P>ALL RIGHTS RESERVED</P>
146.sgm:<P>PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA</P>
146.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<HEAD><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: Printer's Foreword <HI REND="italics">to this</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I SPEAK TO THE READER; LET THE WRITER LISTEN<LB>ORIENTAL PROVERB ( <HI REND="italics">adapted</HI>
146.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA, by Dr. Josiah Royce, in the handsome as well as handy American Commonwealths series, is commonly regarded as the best short history of California ever written, and particularly so as to the early mining era.  Dr. Royce knew his state, and a more competent writer could hardly have been selected.  Reviewing, in his history, almost everything accessible, worthy of consideration, in connection with mining-camps, it is noteworthy that the Doctor has much to say concerning the Shirley Letters.  Thus (p. 344), --</P>
146.sgm:<P>Fortune has preserved to us from the pen of a very intelligent woman, who writes under an assumed name, a marvelously skillful and undoubtedly truthful history of a mining community during a brief period, first of cheerful prosperity, and then of decay and disorder.  The wife of a physician, and herself a well-educated New England woman, "Dame Shirley," as she chooses to call herself, was the right kind of witness to describe for us the social life of a mining camp from actual experience.  This she did in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>And in a foot-note on page 345 the Doctor says, in part, --</P>
146.sgm:<P>She is quite unconscious of the far-reaching moral and social significance of much that she describes.  Many of the incidents introduced are such as imagination could of itself never suggest, in such an order and connection.  There is no mark of any conscious seeking for dramatic effect.  The moods that the writer expresses indicate no remote purpose, but are the simple embodiment of the thoughts of a sensitive mind, interested deeply in the wealth of new experiences.  The letters are charmingly unsentimental; the style is sometimes a little stiff and provincial, but is on the whole very readable.</P>
146.sgm:<P>No typographical or other changes are made in printing these extracts from Dr. Royce's history, and as typographical style is involved in noticing further the Doctor's review of the Shirley Letters, it is proper to say here that his volume was printed at the Riverside Press, Cambridge, Massachusetts, --a press that, in the words of a writer on matters of typographical style, "maintained the reputation of being one of the three or four most painstaking establishments in the world."  Such places are few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:and far between, unlike the "book and job printing establishments" that, like the poor, are always with us, and where no <HI REND="italics">book</HI>
146.sgm:<P>After having so fittingly introduced Shirley to his readers, it is unfortunate that the Doctor is not always accurate in his citation of the facts as printed in the Letters.  Thus on page 347 of his history, he says that the wife of the landlord of the Empire Hotel at Rich Bar was "yellow-complexioned and care-worn."  She does not appear to have been a care-worn person.  Shirley says of her (post, p. 39), --</P>
146.sgm:<P>Mrs. B. is a gentle and amiable looking woman, about twenty-five years of age.  She is an example of the terrible wear and tear to the complexion in crossing the plains, hers having become, through exposure at that time, of a dark and permanent yellow, anything but becoming.  I will give you a key to her character, which will exhibit it better than weeks of description.  She took a nursing babe, eight months old, from her bosom, and left it with two other children, almost infants, to cross the plains in search of gold!</P>
146.sgm:<P>The Doctor says, "The woman cooked for all the boarders herself," and in the preceding sentence states, "The baby, six months old, kicked and cried in a champagne-basket cradle."  Shirley does not use the word "boarders."  The baby was only two weeks old.  With the details of the birth of this baby omitted, Shirley's account of these matters is (p. 40, post), --</P>
146.sgm:<P>When I arrived she was cooking supper for some half a dozen people, while her really pretty boy, who lay kicking furiously in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Dr. Royce (p. 347) tells of the funeral of one of the four women residing at Rich Bar at the time of Shirley's arrival, which was only a few days prior to the death, and they had not met.  The funeral service was held at the log-cabin residence, which had "one large opening in the wall to admit light."  The "large opening" was not, in the first intention, to admit light.  Shirley says (post, p. 70), --</P>
146.sgm:<P>It has no window, all the light admitted entering through an aperture where there <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Describing the service, the Doctor says, in part, --</P>
146.sgm:<P>After a long and wandering impromptu prayer by somebody, a prayer which "Shirley" found disagreeable (since she herself was a churchwoman, and missed the burial service), the procession, containing twenty men and three women, set out.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Shirley was not, at that time, a churchwoman, and her account of the prayer, etc., is, --</P>
146.sgm:<P>About twenty men, with the three women of the place, had assembled at the funeral.  An extempore prayer was made, filled with all the peculiarities usual to that style of petition.  Ah, how different from the soothing verses of the glorious burial service of the church!</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>It may not be inappropriate here to note that the baby referred to in the two immediately preceding pages is none other than the original of The Luck in Bret Harte's Luck of Roaring Camp.  How the funeral scene as described by Shirley was adapted by this master of short-story writing, and how skillfully he combined it with the birth of The Luck, may be perceived in the two paragraphs following.</P>
146.sgm:<P>[Shirley, post, p. 70.]  On a board, supported by two butter-tubs, was extended the body of the dead woman, covered with a sheet.  By its side stood the coffin, of unstained pine, lined with white cambric.</P>
146.sgm:<P>[The Luck of Roaring Camp, Overland, vol. i, p. 184.]  Beside the low bunk or shelf, on which the figure of the mother was starkly outlined below the blankets, stood a pine table.  On this a candle-box was placed, and within it, swathed in staring red flannel, lay the last arrival at Roaring Camp.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Bancroft (History of California, vol. vii, p. 724), speaking of early California literature), says, --</P>
146.sgm:<P>Mining life in California furnished inexhaustible material;...and almost every book produced in the golden era gave specimens more or less entertaining of the wit and humor developed by the struggle with homelessness, physical suffering, and mental gloom.  And when, perchance, a writer had never heard original tales of the kind he felt himself expected to relate, he took them at second-hand....Even the most powerful of Bret Hart's stories borrowed their incidents from the letters of Mrs Laura A. K. Clapp, who under the nom de plume of `Shirley,' wrote a series of letters published in the <HI REND="italics">Pioneer Magazine</HI>
146.sgm:, 1851-2.  The `Luck of Roaring Camp' was suggested by incidents related in Letter II., p. 174-6 of vol. i. of the <HI REND="italics">Pioneer</HI>
146.sgm:.  In Letter XIX., p. 103-10 of vol. iv., is the suggestion of the `Outcasts of Poker <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The temptation cannot be resisted, at this point, to pursue the history of The Luck of Roaring Camp a little further.  The reader will kindly remember that no changes are made in printing extracts.  Mr. T. Edgar Pemberton, in his Bret Harte: A Treatise and a Tribute (London, 1900), says, in referring to criticism of the story when it was first in type, --</P>
146.sgm:<P>Mr Noah Brooks has recorded this strange incident as follows: --</P>
146.sgm:<P>`Perhaps I may be pardoned,' he says, `for a brief reference to an odd complication that arose while <HI REND="italics">The Luck of Roaring Camp</HI>
146.sgm: was being put into type in the printing office where <HI REND="italics">The Overland Monthly</HI>
146.sgm: was prepared for publication.  A young lady who served as proof-reader in the establishment had been somewhat shocked by the scant morals of the mother of Luck, and when she came to the scene where Kentuck, after reverently fondling the infant, said, "he wrastled with my finger, the d--d little cuss," the indignant proof-reader was ready to throw up her engagement rather than go any further with a story so wicked and immoral.  There was consternation throughout the establishment, and the head of the concern went to the office of the publisher with the virginal proof-reader's protest.  Unluckily, Mr Roman was absent from the city.  Harte, when notified of the obstacle raised in the way of <HI REND="italics">The Luck of Roaring Camp</HI>
146.sgm:, manfully insisted that the story must be printed as he wrote it, or not at all.  Mr Roman's <HI REND="italics">locum tenens</HI>
146.sgm: in despair brought the objectionable manuscript around to my office and asked my advice.  When I had read the sentence that had caused all this turmoil, having first listened to the tale of the much-bothered temporary publisher, I surprised him by a burst of laughter.  It seemed to me incredible that such a tempest in a tea-cup could have been raised by Harte's bit of character sketching.  But, recovering my gravity, I advised that the whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:question should await Mr Roman's return.  I was sure that he would never consent to any "editing" of Harte's story.  This was agreed to, and when the publisher came back, a few days later, the embargo was removed.  <HI REND="italics">The Luck of Roaring Camp</HI>
146.sgm:<P>It is amazing to think that, but for the determination and self-confidence of quite a young author, a story that has gladdened and softened the hearts of thousands, --a story that has drawn welcome smiles and purifying tears from all who can appreciate its deftly-mingled humour and pathos, --a story that has been a boon to humanity--might have been sacrificed to the shallow ruling of a prudish `young-lady' proof-reader, and a narrow-minded, pharisaical deacon-printer!</P>
146.sgm:<P>It is appalling to think what might have happened if through nervousness or modesty the writer had been frightened by the premature criticisms of this precious pair.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The "deacon-printer" mentioned by Pemberton was Jacob Bacon, a fine specimen of the printer of the latter half of the last century.  He was the junior partner of the firm of Towne and Bacon, the printers of Harte's <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
146.sgm: volume, The Lost Galleon.  Mr. Towne (not <HI REND="italics">Tane</HI>
146.sgm:<P>A half-tone portrait of the "prudish `young-lady' proof-reader" (what a lacerating taunt!) is printed in the Bret Harte Memorial Number of the Overland (September, 1902).</P>
146.sgm:<P>The proof-readers have not dealt kindly with The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Good usage in typography was utterly unknown to this young lady, --punctuation, capitalization, the use of the hyphen in dividing and compounding words.  In practice she did not--perhaps could not--recognize any distinction between a cipher and a lower-case <HI REND="italics">o</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Noah Brooks, in the Overland Memorial Number, says (p. 203), --</P>
146.sgm:<P>He [Bret Harte] collected some half-dozen stories and poems and they were printed in a volume entitled "The Luck of Roaring Camp and Other Sketches," (1870.)</P>
146.sgm:<P>There were no poems printed in that volume.  It was published in Boston by Fields, Osgood, &amp; Co. Printed at the University Press at Cambridge, then unquestionably the best book-printing house in the United States, of course many of the typographical errors were weeded out.  This volume was reprinted in London by John Camden Hotten.</P>
146.sgm:<P>It is to be regretted that the University Press was not more painstaking in the proof-reading, for the Overland typographical perversions persist in some instances to the present day.  The reader is not misled by the lubbering punctuation of the sentence, "She was a coarse, and, it is to be feared, a very sinful woman."  The usage in such a construction is, "She <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Cherokee Sal was sinking fast.  Within an hour she had climbed, as it were, that rugged road that led to the stars, and so passed out of Roaring Camp, its sin and shame forever.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Cherokee Sal could not possibly be the sin and shame of Roaring Camp forever; hence the sense calls for a comma after "shame," in the extract.  It is gratifying to note that the comma is used in the Hotten reprint.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Another egregious blunder which has persisted is the printing of the word "past" for "passed," in the extract below.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Then he [Kentuck] walked up the gulch, past the cabin, still whistling with demonstrative unconcern.  At a large redwood tree he paused and retraced his steps, and again passed the cabin.</P>
146.sgm:<P>It remained for a proof-reader at the Riverside Press to reconstruct the sentence by deleting the comma after the word "gulch"; thus, "the gulch past the cabin."  That Kentuck "again passed the cabin" seems not to have been considered.  Hence, in the Houghton Mifflin Company's printings of The Luck of Roaring Camp, the last error is worse than the first.</P>
146.sgm:<P>These errors are not venial.  Those that are such have not been mentioned, as they occur in almost every book, and appear to be unavoidable.  Other errors, evincing a lack of knowledge of good usage in book-typography, must also pass unnoticed.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The Luck of Roaring Camp having been disposed of, consideration of Dr. Royce's review of the Shirley Letters will be resumed.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The Doctor, on page 350 of his work, says, "In her little library she had a Bible, a prayer-book, Shakespeare, and Lowell's `Fable for the Critics,' with two or three other books."  Shirley (p. 100, post) says she had a--</P>
146.sgm:<P>Bible and prayer-book, Shakespeare, Spenser, Coleridge, Shelley, Keats, Lowell's Fable for Critics, Walton's Complete Angler, and some Spanish books.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The poet Spenser's name was spelled with a <HI REND="italics">c</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The Spanish books mentioned by Shirley were evidently not neglected by her, and her acquaintance with and friendship for the Spanish-speaking population scattered along the banks of the Ri&acute;o de las Plumas must have made her very familiar with their tongue.  In reading these Letters one cannot fail to perceive how fittingly Spanish words and phrases are interwoven with her own English.  At the time these Letters were written, many Spanish words were a part of the California vernacular, but to Shirley belongs the honor of introducing them into the literature of California; hence, in printing the Letters, such words are not italicized, as they usually are, by printers who should know better.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Dr. Royce also says on page 350, "Prominent in the society of the Bar was a trapper, of the old Fre&acute;mont party, who told blood-curdling tales of Indian fights."  (See post, p. 111.)  It is singular that the Doctor has failed to identify this trapper with the well-known James P. Beckwourth, whose Life and Adventures (Harpers, New York, 1856) was written from his own dictation by Thomas D. Bonner, a justice of the peace in Butte County in 1852.  His name is preserved in "Beckwourth Pass."  He first entered this pass probably in the spring of the year 1851, although 1850 is the year given in his Life.  The Western Pacific Railroad utilizes the pass for its tracks entering California, and through it came the pioneers of whom Shirley has much to say in Letter the Twenty-second.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Among punishments for thefts, the Doctor, on page 351, speaks of a "decidedly barbarous case of hanging" for that offense.  It is referred to here for the reason that in the sequel of the hanging Bret Harte found more than a suggestion for his finale of The Outcasts of Poker Flat.  Both are reprinted here for the purpose of comparison.  Shirley says (post, p. 157), --</P>
146.sgm:<P>The body of the criminal was allowed to hang for some hours after the execution.  It had commenced storming in the earlier part of the evening, and when those whose business it was to inter the remains arrived at the spot, they found them enwrapped in a soft white shroud of feathery snowflakes, as if pitying nature had tried to hide from the offended face of Heaven the cruel deed which her mountain-children had committed.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The finale of The Outcasts of Poker Flat follows, in part, with no other changes than those of punctuation and capitalization.</P>
146.sgm:<P>They slept all that day and the next, nor did they waken when voices and footsteps broke the silence of the camp.  And when pitying fingers brushed the snow from their wan faces, you could scarcely have told, from the equal peace that dwelt upon them, which was she that had sinned.  Even the law of Poker Flat recognized this, and turned away, leaving them still locked in each other's arms.  But at the head of the gulch, on one of the largest pine-trees, they found the deuce of clubs pinned to the bark with a bowie-knife....And pulseless and cold, with a derringer by his side and a bullet in his heart, though still calm as in life, beneath the snow lay he who was at once the strongest and yet the weakest of the outcasts of Poker Flat.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The phrase, "though still calm as in life," in the last sentence of the extract immediately preceding, is one that would seem to invite the challenge of a proof-reader.  It is passed without further notice.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Dr. Royce is not at his best in reviewing Letter the Nineteenth.  The suggestion for The Outcasts of Poker Flat was found therein by Bret Harte, as previously noted.  On page 354 the Doctor says, --</P>
146.sgm:<P>A "majestic-looking Spaniard" had quarreled with an Irishman about a Mexican girl ("Shirley" for the first time, I think, thus showing a knowledge of the presence at Indian Bar of those women who seem, in the bright and orderly days of her first arrival, to have been actually unknown in the camp).  The Mexican, having at last stabbed and killed the other, fled to the hills.</P>
146.sgm:<P>It does not appear from the letter that a girl of any kind was involved in this stabbing and death.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Seven miners from Old Spain, enraged at the cruel treatment which their countrymen had received on the Fourth,... had united for the purpose of taking revenge on seven Americans.  All well armed,...intending to challenge each one his man,...on arriving at Indian Bar...they drank a most enormous quantity of champagne and claret.  Afterwards they proceeded to [a vile resort kept by an Englishman], when one of them commenced a playful conversation with one of his countrywomen.  This enraged the Englishman, who instantly struck the Spaniard a violent blow....Thereupon ensued a spirited fight, which...ended without bloodshed....Soon after,...Tom Somers, who is said always to have been a dangerous person when in liquor, without any apparent provocation struck Domingo (one of the original seven) a violent blow....The latter,...mad with wine, rage, and revenge, without an instant's pause drew his knife and inflicted a fatal wound upon his insulter.  [Post, p. 271.]</P>
146.sgm:<P>In the bakeshop, which stands next door to our cabin, young Tom Somers lay straightened for the grave (he lived but fifteen minutes after he was wounded), while over his dead body a Spanish woman was weeping and moaning in the most piteous and heartrending manner.  [Post, p. 264.]</P>
146.sgm:<P>Domingo, with a Mexican hanging upon his arm, and brandishing threateningly the long, bloody knife,...was parading up and down the street unmolested....The [Americans] rallied and made a rush at the murderer, who immediately plunged into the river and swam across,...and without doubt is now safe in Mexico.  [Post, p. 263.]</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xviii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>A disregard of exactness is not peculiar to Dr. Royce.  Secondary authorities are generally open to criticism.  Of the authenticity of Shirley's facts there can be no question.  Dr. Royce recognized this, while subjecting the work of other writers to severe scrutiny.  But Shirley's printer did her much evil.  It is not necessary here to say much concerning trade usages in making an author's manuscript presentable in type, --the essentially different ways of and differences between the job, the newspaper, and the book printer.  Shirley's letters, not having been written for publication, required exceptional care while being put in type, and especially so since the manuscript was not prepared for the press.  It is amusing to read what the printers of the Pioneer have to say of themselves.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Our facilities for doing FINE BOOK WORK, are very great, possessing as we do, large founts of new type, and an ADAMS POWER PRESS.  We refer to the Pioneer Magazine, as a specimen.  We have in use a MAMMOTH PRESS, which gives us a great advantage in the execution of the LARGEST SIZE MAMMOTH POSTERS, in colors or plain.</P>
146.sgm:<P>In the estimation of the printers, the mate&acute;riel was the principal thing; the personnel, not worthy of mention, --and it so happened that it wasn't, for, judging from the typographical inaccuracies of the Pioneer, the compositors were of a very low order of intelligence, and if a proof-reader was employed, he assuredly stood high in their estimation, as he evidently caused them but little trouble.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xix</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Much has been said by writers on matters typographical as to what is meet and necessary in the reprinting of a book, and much more on literary blunders and mistakes.  Some printers are rash, and perpetrate a worse blunder than that attempted to be corrected in reprinting.  Worse than such people are the amateur proof-readers, who generally run to extremes, that is, they either cannot see a blunder, and hence pass it unchallenged, or else they manifest a disposition to challenge and "improve" everything they do not comprehend, and, knowing nothing of typographical usages or style, they are a decidedly malignant quantity.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Every old printer knows, what is often said, that English is a grammarless tongue, and that no grammarian ever wrote a sentence worth reading.  No proof-reader, with the experience of a printer behind him, will change a logically expressed idea so as to make it conform to grammatical rules, nor will he harass the author thereof with suggestions looking to that end.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Critical readers of these Letters must ever bear in mind the fact that Shirley was not writing for publication, and that the printer of this edition had no desire to and did not alter Shirley's text to suit his ideas of what was fitting and proper, further than to smooth or round out in many instances rugged or careless construction.  Punctuation, hyphenization, capitalization, italicizing, spelling, required much, and of course received much, attention.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xx</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>In some instances where Shirley does not express her meaning clearly, and reconstruction seemed necessary, no change was made.  Singularly, this was the case in the first sentence of the first letter.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I can easily imagine, dear M., the look of large wonder which gleams from your astonished eyes when they fall upon the date of this letter.</P>
146.sgm:<P>M. could be astonished but once, but the language used conveys the idea of wonder arising each time the letter is read; then, again, it is the place-name, and not the date, that is to cause wonder to gleam from astonished eyes, as the context shows.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Where reconstruction was not needed to make the meaning clear, and this could be done by the insertion of a word or phrase, or by some other simple emendation, changes were generally made.  The extract (post, p. 11) following is printed just as it appeared in the Pioneer.</P>
146.sgm:<P>As a frame to the graceful picture, on one side rose the Buttes, that group of hills so piquant and saucy; and on the other tossing to Heaven the everlasting whiteness of their snow wreathed foreheads, stood, sublime in their very monotony, the glorious Sierra Nevada.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Besides changes in capitalization and punctuation, the words, "the summits of," are inserted before "the glorious Sierra."  Compare Bret Harte's lines, -- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Above the pines the moon was slowly drifting,<LB>The river sang below;<LB>The dim Sierras, far beyond, uplifting<LB>Their minarets of snow.</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxi</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>By the word "Sierras" the mountain-range called the Sierra Nevada is not meant, but merely teeth-like summits thereof, which uplift their snow-clad peaks, or "minarets."  The Spanish word "sierra" means, in English, a saw, and also a ridge of mountains and craggy rocks.  "Nevada" means here, in connection with "Sierra," snowy.  Thus, "the snowy ridge of mountains and craggy rocks," or, to express the meaning more clearly in English, the snowy serrated mountain-range.  Bret Harte's capitalization of "Sierras" may be safely challenged.  The lines are from his poem, Dickens in Camp.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The Buttes mentioned by Shirley are the Marysville Buttes.  "Butte" is French, and descriptive, and French trappers bestowed the name.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Shirley sometimes uses an adverb instead of an adjective.  Thus on page 332, speaking of a tame frog on the bar at a rancho, she says, --</P>
146.sgm:<P>You cannot think how comically [comic] it looked hopping about the bar, quite as much at home as a tame squirrel would have been.</P>
146.sgm:<P>An old San Francisco printer once heard a newspaperman say that this little incident furnished the suggestion to Mark Twain for his Jumping Frog of Calaveras, but, unfortunately, regarded the remark as of no more importance than much other gossip current among printers and newspapermen.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Shirley, like many another writer, used marks of quotation improperly, when the language of the author cited was altered or adapted.  Worse than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>On page 79 quotation-marks are deleted, the language used being adapted, thus, "clothe themselves with curses as with a garment."  Compare Psalms cix, 18, "He clothed himself with cursing like as with his garment."</P>
146.sgm:<P>On page 101 a correction is made; thus, "As thy day is, so shall thy strength be" (Deut. xxxiii, 25).  In the Letters this read, "As thy days, so," etc.</P>
146.sgm:<P>On page 268 quotation-marks are deleted, as the language used is adapted, and in a strict sense is also inaccurate; thus, "The <HI REND="italics">woman</HI>
146.sgm:<P>12.  And the man said, The woman whom thou gavest to be with me, she gave me of the tree, and I did eat.</P>
146.sgm:<P>13.  And the Lord God said unto the woman, What is this that thou hast done?  And the woman said, The serpent beguiled me, and I did eat.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Blunders and mistakes of all sorts might be set out, but it is not deemed advisable to pursue this matter any further.  It is, however, necessary to say something further of THE PIONEER itself, and the paper-cover title of the May, 1855, number is reprinted here, with an outline drawing of the crude woodcut vignette printed in the original.  It was impossible to secure a satisfactory facsimile of the title.  The names of some of the agents of the magazine are of historical interest.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">or</HI>
146.sgm:<P>California Monthly Magazine</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">May</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO</P>
146.sgm:<P>PUBLISHED <HI REND="italics">by</HI>
146.sgm:<P>NOS. 111 &amp; 113 MONTGOMERY STREET</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">For</HI>
146.sgm: SALE <HI REND="italics">at all the</HI>
146.sgm: BOOKSTORES <HI REND="italics">in the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>AGENTS</P>
146.sgm:<P>J. W. JONES, Benicia; CHAS. BINNEY, Sacramento; R. A. EDDY &amp; CO., Marysville; GEO. VINCENT &amp; CO., Coloma; LANGTON &amp; BRO., Downieville; A. ROMAN, Shasta; ROMAN &amp; PARKER, Yreka; NASH &amp; DAVIS, Placerville; ADAMS &amp; CO., Jackson; ADAMS &amp; CO., Georgetown; ADAMS &amp; CO., Mud Springs; C. O. BURTON, Stockton; CANNADAY &amp; COOK, Sonora; A. A. HUNNEWELL, Columbia; J. COFFIN, Mokelumne Hill; MILLER &amp; CO., Chinese Camp; ELLIOTT REED, San Jose&acute;; ALEXANDER S. TAYLOR, Monterey; R. K. SWEETLAND, Volcano; LANGTON &amp; BRO., Sierra County; DR. STEINBERGER, agent Adams &amp; CO., Oregon; HENRY M. WHITNEY, Honolulu, S. I.</P>
146.sgm:<P>MONSON &amp; VALENTINE, Printers, 124 Sacramento Street</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxiv</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>But few copies of the Pioneer are known to be in existence.  Odd numbers are sometimes found, but these are generally in a mutilated condition, while the bound volumes lack the advertisements.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The first number was issued in January, 1854, and the last in December, 1855.  The first letter of the Shirley series appeared in the initial number, and the last one in the final issue.  The magazine seems to have been well received in the East, and the Eastern magazines reviewed it very favorably.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Of Shirley herself it is not necessary to say much in this Foreword.  She was a typical Massachusetts girl, although born in New Jersey, the residence of the family in the latter state being merely temporary, as is clearly shown by her correspondence.  A letter from Miss Katherine Powell, librarian of the Amherst Town Library, sheds some light on the early associations of Shirley.  In part, she says, --</P>
146.sgm:<P>In spite of widespread inquiries, I have been able to get...[but little] concerning Louise Amelia Knapp Smith.  There are no people now living here who knew her even by hearsay.  The records of Amherst Academy show that she attended that institution in 1839 and 1840....Miss Smith's name adds another to the long list of writers who have lived here at one time or another, and Amherst Academy has added many names to that list.  Two of them--Emily Dickinson the poet, and Emily Fowler Ford--were schoolmates of Miss Smith.  Mrs. Ford was the granddaughter of Noah Webster (an Amherst man [one of the founders of Amherst College]) and daughter of Professor Fowler [the phrenologist], who wrote several books.  Eugene Field was, some years later, a student of the old Academy, and in his poem, My Playmates, he mentioned by their real names a number of his old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxv</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Amherst, it should be said, was the home-town of Shirley's family, and to it she often fondly refers in the Letters.  It is not cause for wonder that she is not now remembered in Amherst.  Her correspondence shows that the members of the family, although devotedly attached to one another, were inclined to disperse.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Mrs. Mary Viola Tingley Lawrence has kindly permitted the printing in this volume of a paper prepared by her to be read before a literary society, containing much that is interesting of Shirley's life.  Mrs. Lawrence is well known among the <HI REND="italics">literati</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Rich Bar and Indian Bar, in Butte County at the time the Shirley Letters were written, are now in Plumas County, consequent upon a change of the county boundary lines.  There are two Rich Bars on the Feather River, the minor one being on the Middle Fork, and oftentimes mistaken for the one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxvi</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>In closing this Foreword, the printer desires to emphasize the fact that the typesetting and press-work of this book are entirely his own work.  No one acquainted with the methods employed in a legitimate book-printing house will fail to recognize the fact that it is wellnigh impossible to print a <HI REND="italics">book</HI>
146.sgm:<P>For many favors extended while the Letters were in press, thanks are due, and are now acknowledged, to Milton J. Ferguson, the librarian of the State Library at Sacramento, California, who was never-failing in either service or patience.</P>
146.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxvii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<HEAD>Dame Shirley, <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: Writer <HI REND="italics">of these</HI>
146.sgm: Letters<LB>An Appreciation</HEAD>
146.sgm:<P>BEING <HI REND="italics">a</HI>
146.sgm: PAPER <HI REND="italics">prepared by</HI>
146.sgm: MRS. MARY VIOLA TINGLEY LAWRENCE <HI REND="italics">to be read before a</HI>
146.sgm: SAN FRANCISCO <HI REND="italics">literary society on</HI>
146.sgm:<P>THE SHIRLEY LETTERS, written in the pioneer days of 1851 and 1852, were hailed throughout the country as the first-born of California literature.  Mrs. Clappe, their author, was the one woman who depicted that era of romantic life, dipping her pen into a rich personal experience, and writing with a clarity and beauty born of an alert comprehensive mind and a rare sense of refinement and character.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The Letters had been written to a loved sister in the East, but Ferdinand C. Ewer, a <HI REND="italics">litt&eacute;rateur</HI>
146.sgm:<P>This quickly recognized author became the leader of the first <HI REND="italics">salon</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Louise Amelia Knapp Smith Clappe came to light in Elizabeth, New Jersey, in 1819.  Her father, Moses Smith, was a man of high scholarly attainment, and by her mother, Lois Lee, she could claim an equally gifted ancestry, and a close kinship with Julia Ward Howe.  As a young girl, together with several brothers and sisters, she was left parentless, but there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxviii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>At that day the epistolary art was a finished accomplishment, and in childhood she evidenced a ready use of the quill pen.  Later on, she maintained correspondence with brilliant minds, who challenged her to her best.  At the same time she was pursuing her English studies, to which were added French, German, and Italian.  She had but little time for the trivial social amenities, but her frequent missives from her relatives, the Lees and Wards of New York City and Boston, and her enjoyable visits to their gay homes, broke the strain of mental grind, and kept her in touch with the fashionable world.  Her communications in the forties disclose a relation to men and women of culture, whose letters are colorful of people, places, and events, and through them we reach an intimate inside of her own self.  Those faded, musty-smelling epistles, with pressed flowers, from an old attic, reveal a rich kind of distinct and charming personalities.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Shirley, small, fair, and golden-haired, was not physically strong, and her careful guardian often ordered a change of climate.  Sometimes she sojourned in the South.  In her migrations she might employ a carriage, or venture on a canal-boat, but usually the stage-coach carried her.  It was on one of those bits of travel that she met Mr. A. H. Everett of Massachusetts, a brother of Edward Everett, a noted author, and popular throughout the country as a lecturer.  He had been charge&acute; d'affaires in the Netherlands, and minister to Spain.  An intimate relationship, chiefly by correspondence, was established between this gifted girl and this brilliant gentleman.  His long letters from Louisiana sometimes were written wholly in French.  From Washington, D.C., he writes that the mission of United States minister to a foreign court has been offered him, but it fails to tempt him away from his life of letters.  However, later on, it comes about that he accepts the mission of United States commissioner to the more alluring China, and his long letters to her from there, as they had been from other foreign lands, were most entertaining.  This rare man grows to be very fond of his young and brilliant correspondent, and signs himself, "Yours faithfully and affectionately."  But he was well on in years, and she looks upon him more as a father than as a suitor, and he so understands it.  He commits himself enough to say how much it would be to him to have her near him as an attache&acute;e, and when she hints of her engagement to a young physician, he jealously begs to know every detail concerning the happy man.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Shirley married Dr. Fayette Clappe, and in 1849, with the spirit of romance and the fire of enthusiasm, the joyful young Argonauts set sail for California in the good ship Manilla.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxix</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>They found the primitive San Francisco enthralling, but a fire swept away the new city, and tent-life was accepted as one of many picturesque experiences.  Soon, however, the Doctor's shingle was again hung out.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Quickly buildings went up, and the little lady with golden curls to her waist went about, jostling the motley crowd of people, and finding concern in the active city front, in the gaudy shops, and in the open faro-banks with their exposed piles of nuggets and bags of gold-dust freshly dug from the earth.</P>
146.sgm:<P>There was the ever-beckoning to the hills of treasure, with their extravagant stories of adventure, but the professional man was anchored in the more prosy city, and buckled down to a commonplace existence.  The exhilarating ozone from the ocean, the wind blowing over the vast area of sand, the red-flannel-shirted miner recklessly dumping out sacks of gold-dust with which to pay his board-bill or to buy a pair of boots, with maybe a nugget for Dr. Clappe when he eased a trivial pain, --all these thrills were calls to the gold-filled Mother Earth.  Finally, Dr. Clappe's ill-health drove him to the Feather River, --a high altitude, fifty miles from the summit of the Sierra Nevada, and the highest point of gold-diggings.  There he soon recovered, and to her joy he wrote his wife to join him.  And she had varying experiences in transit to the prospective home, which was at Rich Bar, --rich indeed, where a miner unearthed thirty-three pounds of gold in eight days, and others panned out fifteen hundred dollars in one wash of dirt.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The sojourn at the gold-camp in the summers and winters of 1851 and 1852, with its tremendous and varied incidents and experiences, was a compelling call to Shirley's facile pen.  Here was her mine.  Out of her brain, out of her soul, out of her heart of gold, out of her wealth of understanding of and love for her fellow-men, gratefully sprang those SHIRLEY LETTERS that have enriched the field of letters, and, reaching beyond the grasp of worldly gain, have set her enduringly in the hearts of mankind.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Who can tell how far-reaching and inspiring were those illuminating pages, those vividly depicted scenes enacted on the crowded stages of the golden-lined bars of the famous Feather River!  Bret Harte reads her graphic and pathetic account of the fallen woman and the desperate men being driven out of camp, and lo! we have the gripping tale of The Outcasts of Poker Flat; and from another of her recitals came the inspiration that set him to work on that entertaining story, The Luck of Roaring Camp.  And her incidental mention of the pet frog hopping on the bar of the hotel, in the midst of a group of onlooking miners, --was it the setting for Mark Twain's Jumping Frog of Calaveras?</P>
146.sgm:<P>During their sojourn at Rich and Indian bars, Shirley and her husband became rich in experience.  They folded their tent and left with depleted purse, but they had righteously invested their God-bestowed talents.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxx</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Upon their return to San Francisco the couple rejoined delightful friends, and established a home.  But reverses of fortune came, and Shirley found it necessary to put her accomplishments to the practical purpose of gaining a livelihood.  By the advice of her friend Ferdinand C. Ewer she entered the San Francisco public school department, where for long years she taught, notably in the high schools.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Shirley was small in build, with a thin face and a finely shaped head.  Her limbs were perfect in symmetry.  As a girl, doubtless she had claim to a delicate beauty.  She now showed the wear and tear of her mountain experience, coupled with an accumulation of heart-breaking trouble.  She gave prodigally of all her gifts.  She interpreted life and its arts to all discerning pupils, and by the magic of her friendly intercourse won their confidence.  Quick to discover any unusual promise in a pupil, she indefatigably and masterfully stirred up such a one to his or her best, sometimes with remarks of approval, or by censuring recreancy with stinging sarcasm, or with expressions of despair over infirmity of purpose.  Some of such scholars, notably among them Charles Warren Stoddard, panned out gold in the field of letters.  Many of her pupils, including myself, absorbed much of her wonderful help, and it grew into our subconsciousness and became a part of us.  She was the long-time friend of Bret Harte, and from her he gathered a wealth of knowledge that served him well.</P>
146.sgm:<P>When Mr. Ewer was ordained in Grace Episcopal Church, San Francisco, Shirley became a member of his parish, and together with his wife she assisted him in the ministrations of good.  Then this dependable friend, Dr. Ewer, was discovered, with the result that he was called to a church in New York at a salary of ten thousand dollars a year.</P>
146.sgm:<P>In addition to her daily teaching, Shirley, by request, established evening classes in art and literature, for men and women, and once a week she held her <HI REND="italics">salon</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Childless, Shirley took her niece, Genevieve Stebbins, and reared her from babyhood to a splendid womanhood.  She contributed freely to entertainments for charity, by her Shakespearean readings and other recitations, and happily prepared whole parties for private theatricals.  With such mental strain, she kept herself fit by Saturday outings, in which were graciously included some of her pupils.  At times we went across the bay, in various directions, but oftenest we strove through the sand to the ocean beach, stopping here and there to botanize, and gather the sweet yellow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxxi</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Shirley, I should also mention, wrote some respectable poetry.  I have fondly preserved, treasured, and cherished the original manuscript of a poem written by her at the time Margaret Fuller Ossoli was lost by shipwreck in 1850.  This poem was included in my collection of California poetry, but was not printed in Outcroppings.  I append it to this paper, of which it can hardly be considered an essential part.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I married and went to the mines, and our home was on the Mariposa Grant.  We lived on a bed of gold.  Once, upon a visit to the city, I found Shirley nervous and worn.  Her vacation was about to begin.  She went home with me, and stayed in bed the first three days.  Then she was daily swung in a hammock under an oak.  Soon we had horseback-rides, and up the creek she again panned out gold.  Later we set out in the stage-coach for the hotel at the big Mariposa Grove.  Mr. Lawrence put us in charge of Mr. Galen Clark, a rare scholar, and the guardian of the Big Tree Grove and of the Yosemite Valley.  This charming man was much interested in Shirley.  From the hotel we took daily rides with him through the great forest, and then made the twenty-five-mile horseback-ride and found Mr. James M. Hutchings, of the Illustrated California Magazine, awaiting us at the entrance to the valley.  He escorted us to his picturesque hotel, where he and his interesting wife made our three weeks' stay most delightful.  Down in the meadows we came upon John Muir sawing logs.  He dropped his work, and we three went botanizing, and soon were learning all about the valley's formation as he entrancingly talked.  We met many tourists of distinction, and Shirley forgot that she ever had a care, and on our way back she galloped along recklessly.</P>
146.sgm:<P>At our home in Mariposa we invited friends to come and enjoy Shirley's Shakespearean readings, chiefly comedy.  In these Mr. Lawrence had a happy part.</P>
146.sgm:<P>In time Shirley went to New York, to her niece, Genevieve Stebbins, who was successful in a delightful line of art-work.  Before leaving San Francisco, her faithful pupils and other friends gave a musicale and realized about two thousand dollars, which was presented her as a loving gift.  In the great metropolis her genius was recognized soon after her arrival, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxxii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxxiii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>"ALONE"</P>
146.sgm:<P>A REMINISCENCE OF MARGARET FULLER OSSOLI</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">By</HI>
146.sgm: SHIRLEY LEE <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>BENEATH thy spirit-eyes I stand alone,<LB>Nor deem thee of the dead<LB>As mournfully I gaze, sad-hearted one,<LB>On that calm brow and head.<LB>The starry crown of genius could not save<LB>From woman's gift of grief;<LB>The moaning billows o'er thy breast that rave<LB>Emblem thy life too brief.<LB>O Margaret! my weak heart-pulses shiver<LB>In wordless woe for thee,<LB>Thy wasted tenderness, thy love that never<LB>Might its fruition see.<LB>Thou hadst no youth, O wondrous child! no youth<LB>Haloed thy later life;<LB>Sternly thy girl heart sought its solemn truth<LB>In battle and in strife.<LB>In thine own Northern home didst thou not live<LB>"Alone," always "alone"?<LB>What heart to thine uplifted heart could give<LB>Ever an answering tone?<LB>In suffering, labor, strife, we saw thee stand<LB>With lips that would not moan,<LB>While shone thy regal brow and eyes with grand<LB>Aspirings all thine own.<LB>At last among thy Romans thou didst find<LB>A shrine for that large heart;<LB>It understood thee not, the Northern mind,<LB>But coldly shrunk apart,</HI>
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146.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">When those pale lips--from whence, an hour agone,<LB>Flew out, like rifted light,<LB>Winged words of wit--murmured their wailed "Alone"<LB>To the pitying midnight.<LB>And I have read thy life, its mournful story<LB>Of loneliness and blight;<LB>But o'er its close there shines a solemn glory,<LB>A setting star's trailed light.<LB>Margaret! white-robed, thy hair unbound, thy veil,<LB>Most like a bride wert thou<LB>When Ocean clasped thee, and, with lips all pale<LB>And icy, kissed thy brow.<LB>And lovely as a white unfolded blossom<LB>Lay the child Angelo,<LB>Hushed to his dreamless flower-sleep on that bosom<LB>Which would not let him go.<LB>Husband, and wife, and child together flutter<LB>Up to the great white throne,<LB>Where nevermore may Margaret Fuller utter<LB>That piteous "Alone!"</HI>
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146.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PRINTER'S FOREWORD <HI REND="italics">to this</HI>
146.sgm: EDITION<HSEP>PAGE  V<LB>DAME SHIRLEY<HSEP>PAGE  xxvii<LB>BEING <HI REND="italics">a</HI>
146.sgm: PAPER <HI REND="italics">prepared by</HI>
146.sgm: MRS. MARY VIOLA TINGLEY LAWRENCE <HI REND="italics">to be read before a</HI>
146.sgm: SAN FRANCISCO <HI REND="italics">literary society</HI>
146.sgm:<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: FIRST<HSEP>Part One<HSEP>PAGE  1<LB>THE JOURNEY TO RICH BAR<LB>A THOUSAND people and but one physician--The author's husband seeks health and business--Journey through deep snow, in midsummer, to reach Rich Bar--The revivifying effect of mountain atmosphere--Arrival of twenty-nine physicians in less than three weeks--The author's purpose to leave San Francisco and join her husband at the mines--Direful predictions and disapprobation of friends--Indelicacy of her position among an almost exclusively male population--Indians, ennui, cold--Leaves for Marysville--Scanty fare on way--Meets husband--Falls from mule--An exhausting ride--A midnight <HI REND="italics">petit souper</HI>
146.sgm: at Marysville--Dr. C. leaves on muleback for Bidwell's Bar--The author follows in springless wagon--Beautiful scenery--Marysville Buttes--Sierra Nevada--Indian women, their near-nudity, beautiful limbs and lithe forms, picturesqueness--Flower-seed gathering--Indian bread--Marvelous handiwork of basketry--A dangerous precipice--A disclaimer of bravery--Table Mountain--Arrival at Bidwell's Bar--Rejoins husband--Uninviting quarters--Proceed to Berry Creek.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: FIRST<HSEP>Part Two<HSEP>PAGE  15<LB>THE JOURNEY TO RICH BAR<LB>A MOONLIT midsummer-night's ride on muleback--Joyous beginning--The Indian trail lost--Camping out for the night--Attempts in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxxvi</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:morning to find the trail--A trying ride in the fierce heat of midday--The trail found--A digression of thirty miles--Lack of food, and seven more miles to ride--To rest impossible--Mad joy when within sight of Berry Creek Rancho--Congratulations upon escape from Indians on the trail--Frenchman and wife murdered--The journey resumed--Arrival at the "Wild Yankee's"--A breakfast with fresh butter and cream--Indian bucks, squaws, and papooses--Their curiosity--Pride of an Indian on his ability to repeat one line of a song--Indian women--Extreme beauty of their limbs; slender ankles and statuesque feet; haggardness of expression and ugliness of features--Girl of sixteen, a "wildwood Cleopatra," an exception to the general hideousness--The California Indian not the Indian of the Leatherstocking tales--A stop at the Buckeye Rancho--Start for Pleasant Valley Rancho--The trail again lost--Camping out for the night--Growling bears--Arrive at Pleasant Valley Rancho--Flea-haunted shanty--Beauty of the wilderness--Quail and deer--The chaparrals, and their difficulty of penetration by the mules--Escape from a rattlesnake--Descending precipitous hill on muleback--Saddle-girth breaks--Harmless fall from the saddle--Triumphant entry into Rich Bar--Tribute to mulekind--The Empire Hotel--"A huge shingle palace."<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: SECOND<HSEP>PAGE  33<LB>RICH BAR--ITS HOTELS AND PIONEER FAMILIES<LB>THE EMPIRE HOTEL, <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
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146.sgm:<P>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: THIRD<HSEP>PAGE  43<LB>LIFE AND FORTUNE AT THE BAR-DIGGINGS<LB>FLASHY shops and showy houses of San Francisco--Rich Bar charmingly fresh and original--A diminutive valley--Rio de las Plumas, or Feather River--Rich Bar, the Barra Rica of the Spaniards--An acknowledgment of "a most humiliating consciousness of geological deficiencies"--Palatial splendor of the Empire Hotel--Round tents, square tents, plank hovels, log cabins, etc.--"Local habitations" formed of pine boughs, and covered with old calico shirts--The "office" of Dr. C. excites the risibilities of the author--One of the "finders" of Rich Bar--Had not spoken to a woman for two years--Honors the occasion by an "investment" in champagne--The author assists in drinking to the honor of her arrival at the Bar--Nothing done in California without the sanctifying influence of the "spirit"--History of the discovery of gold at Rich Bar--Thirty-three pounds of gold in eight hours--Fifteen hundred dollars from a panful of "dirt"--Five hundred miners arrive at Rich Bar in about a week--Smith Bar, Indian Bar, Missouri Bar, and other bars--Miners extremely fortunate--Absolute wealth in a few weeks--Drunken gamblers in less than a year--Suffering for necessaries of life--A mild winter--A stormy spring--Impassable trails--No pack-mule trains arrive--Miners pack flour on their backs for over forty miles--Flour sells at over three dollars a pound--Subsistence on feed-barley--A voracious miner--An abundance placed in storage.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: FOURTH<HSEP>PAGE  55<LB>ACCIDENTS--SURGERY--DEATH--FESTIVITY<LB>FRIGHTFUL accidents to which the gold-seeker is constantly liable--Futile attempts of physician to save crushed leg of young miner--Universal outcry against amputation--Dr. C., however, uses the knife--Professional reputation at stake--Success attends the operation--Death of another young miner, who fell into mining-shaft--His funeral--Picturesque appearance of the miners thereat--Of what the miner's costume consists--Horror of the author aroused in contemplation of the lonely mountain-top graveyard--Jostling of life and death--Celebration of the anniversary of Chilian independence--Participation of a certain class of Yankees therein--The procession--A Falstaffian leader--The feast--A twenty-gallon keg of brandy on the table, gracefully encircled by quart dippers--The Chilen&tilde;os reel with a better grace, the Americans more naturally.</P>
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146.sgm:<P>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: FIFTH<HSEP>PAGE  67<LB>DEATH OF A MOTHER--LIFE OF PIONEER WOMEN<LB>DEATH of one of the four pioneer women of Rich Bar--The funeral from the log-cabin residence--Sickly ten-months-old baby moans piteously for its mother--A handsome girl of six years, unconscious of her bereavement, shocks the author by her actions--A monte-table cover as a funeral pall--Painful feelings when nails are driven into coffin--The extempore prayer--Every observance possible surrounded the funeral--Visit to a canvas house of three "apartments"--Barroom, dining-room, kitchen with bed-closet--A sixty-eight-pound woman--"A magnificent woman, a wife of the right sort"--"Earnt her `old man' nine hundred dollars in nine weeks, by washing"--The "manglers" and the "mangled"--Fortitude of refined California women pioneers--The orphaned girl a "cold-blooded little wretch"--Remorse of the author--"Baby decanters"--The gayety and fearlessness of the orphaned girl.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: SIXTH<HSEP>PAGE  77<LB>USE OF PROFANITY--UNCERTAINTY OF MINING<LB>PREVALENCE of profanity in California--Excuses for its use--A mere slip of the tongue, etc.--Grotesqueness of some blasphemous expressions--Sleep-killing mining machinery--What a flume is--Project to flume the river for many miles--The California mining system a gambling or lottery transaction--Miner who works his own claim the more successful--Dr. C. a loser in his mining ventures--Another sleep-killer--Bowling-alleys--Bizarre cant phrases and slang used by the miners--"Honest Indian?"--"Talk enough when horses fight"--"Talk enough between gentlemen"--"I've got the dead-wood on him"--"I'm going nary cent" (on person mistrusted)--All carry the freshness of originality to the ear of the author.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: SEVENTH<HSEP>PAGE  87<LB>THE NEW LOG-CABIN HOME AT INDIAN BAR<LB>CHANGE of residence to Indian Bar--Whether to go to the new camp on muleback over the hill, or on foot by crossing the river--The water-passage decided upon--An escort of Indian Barians--Magnificence of scenery on the way--Gold-miners at work--Their implements--"The color"--The Stars and Stripes on a lofty treetop--A camp of tents and cabins--Some of calico shirts and pine boughs--Indian Bar described--Mountains shut <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:out the sun--The "Humbolt" (spelled without the <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
146.sgm: on the sign) the only hotel in the camp--A barroom with a dancing-floor--A cook who plays the violin--A popular place--Clinking glasses and swaggering drinkers--"No place for a lady"--The log-cabin residence--Its primitive, makeshift furnishings--The library--No churches, society, etc.--"No vegetables but potatoes and onions, no milk, no eggs, no <HI REND="italics">nothing</HI>
146.sgm:."<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: EIGHTH<HSEP>PAGE  103<LB>LIFE AND CHARACTERS AT INDIAN BAR<LB>NED, the mulatto cook and the Paganini of the Humboldt Hotel--A naval character--His ecstasy upon hearing of the coming of the author to the Bar--Suggestion of a strait-jacket for him--"The only petticoated astonishment on this Bar--First dinner at the log cabin--Ned's pretentious setting of the pine dining-table--The Bar ransacked for viands--The bill of fare--Ned an accomplished violinist--"Chock," his white accompanist--The author serenaded--An unappreciated "artistic" gift--A guide of the Fre&acute;mont expedition camps at Indian Bar--A linguist, and former chief of the Crow Indians--Cold-blooded recitals of Indian fights--The Indians near the Bar expected to make a murderous attack upon the miners--The guide's council with them--Flowery reply of the Indians--A studious Quaker--His merciless frankness and regard for truth--"The Squire," and how he was elected justice of the peace--The miners prefer to rule themselves.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: NINTH<HSEP>PAGE  117<LB>THEFT OF GOLD-DUST--TRIAL AND PUNISHMENT<LB>THE "SQUIRE'S" first opportunity to exercise his judicial power--Holding court in a barroom--The jury "treated" by the Squire--Theft of gold-dust, and arrest of suspect--A miners' meeting--Fears that they would hang the prisoner--A regular trial decided upon, at the Empire, Rich Bar, where the gold-dust was stolen--Suggestion of thrift--Landlords to profit by trial, wherever held--Mock respect of the miners for the Squire--Elect a president at the trial--The Squire allowed to play at judge--Lay counsel for prosecution and defense--Ingenious defense of the accused--Verdict of guilty--Light sentence, on account of previous popularity and inoffensive conduct--Thirty-nine lashes, and to leave the river--Owner of gold-dust indemnified by transfer of thief's interest in a mine--A visit to Smith's Bar--Crossing the river on log <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xl</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:bridges--Missouri Bar--Smith's a sunny camp, unlike Indian--Frenchman's Bar, another sunny spot--"Yank," the owner of a log-cabin store--Shrewdness and simplicity--Hopeless ambition to be "cute and smart"--The "Indiana girl" impossible to Yank--"A superior and splendid woman, but no polish"--Yank's "olla podrida of heterogeneous merchandise"--The author meets banished gold-dust thief--Subscription by the miners on his banishment--A fool's errand to establish his innocence--An oyster-supper bet--The thief's statements totally incompatible with innocence.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: TENTH<HSEP>PAGE  133<LB>AMATEUR MINING--HAIRBREADTH 'SCAPES, &amp;c.<LB>THREE dollars and twenty-five cents in gold-dust--Sorry she learned the trade--The resulting losses and suffering--Secret of the brilliant successes of former gold-washeresses--Salting the ground by miners in order to deceive their fair visitors--Erroneous ideas of the richness of auriferous dirt resulting therefrom--Rarity of lucky strikes--Claim yielding ten dollars a day considered valuable--Consternation and near-disaster in the author's cabin--Trunk of forest giant rolls down hill--Force broken by rock near cabin--Terror of careless woodman--Another narrow escape at Smith's Bar--Pursuit and escape of woodman--Two sudden deaths at Indian Bar--Inquest in the open--Cosmopolitan gathering thereat--Wife of one of the deceased an advanced bloomer--Animadversions on strong-minded bloomers seeking their rights--California pheasant, the gallina del campo of the Spaniards--Pines and dies in captivity--Smart, harmless earthquake-shocks.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: ELEVENTH<HSEP>PAGE  149<LB>ROBBERY, TRIAL, EXECUTION--MORE TRAGEDY<LB>THEFT of gold-dust--Arrest of two suspected miners--Trial and acquittal at miners' meeting--Robbed persons still believe the accused guilty--Suspects leave mountains--One returns, and plan for his detection proves successful--Confronted with evidence of guilt, discloses, on promise of immunity from prosecution, hiding-place of gold-dust--Miners, however, try him, and on conviction he is sentenced to be hanged one hour thereafter--Miners' mode of trial--Respite of three hours--Bungling execution--Drunken miner's proposal for sign of guilt or innocence--Corpse "enwrapped in white shroud of feathery snowflakes"--Execution the work of the more reckless--Not generally approved--The Squire, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xli</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:disregarded, protested--Miners' procedure compared with the moderation of the first Vigilance Committee of San Francisco -Singular disappearance of body of miner--Returning to the States with his savings, his two companions report their leaving him in dying condition--Arrest and fruitless investigation--An unlikely bequest of money--Trial and acquittal of the miner's companions--Their story improbable, their actions like actual murder.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: TWELFTH<HSEP>PAGE 163<LB>A STORMY WINTER--HOLIDAY SATURNALIAS<LB>SATURNALIA in camp--Temptations of riches--Tribute to the miners--Dreariness of camp-life during stormy winter weather--Christmas and change of proprietors at the Humboldt--Preparations for a double celebration--Muleback loads of brandy-casks and champagne-baskets--Noisy procession of revelers--Oyster-and-champagne supper--Three days of revelry--Trial by mock vigilance committee--Judgment to "treat the crowd"--Revels resumed on larger scale at New Year's--Boat-loads of drunken miners fall into river--Saved by being drunk--Boat-load of bread falls into river and floats down-stream--Pulley-and-rope device for hauling boat across river--Fiddlers "nearly fiddled themselves into the grave"--Liquors "beginning to look scarce"--Subdued and sheepish-looking bacchanals--Nothing extenuated, nor aught set down in malice--Boating on river--Aquatic plants--Bridge swept away in torrent--Loss of canoe--Branch from moss-grown fir-tree "a cornice wreathed with purple-starred tapestry"--A New Year's present from the river--A two-inch spotted trout--No fresh meat for a month--"Dark and ominous rumors"--Dark hams, rusty pork, etc., stored.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: THIRTEENTH<HSEP>PAGE 177<LB>SOCIABILITY AND EXCITEMENTS OF MINING-LIFE<LB>DEPARTURE from Indian Bar of the mulatto Ned--His birthday-celebration dinner, at which the New Year's piscatory phenomenon figures in the bill of fare--A total disregard of dry laws at the dinner--Excitement over reported discovery of quartz-mines--A complete humbug--Charges of salting--Excitement renewed upon report of other new quartz-mines--Even if rich, lack of proper machinery would render the working thereof impossible--Prediction that quartz-mining eventually will be the most profitable--Miners leave the river without paying their debts--Pursued and captured--Miners' court orders settlement in full--Celebration, by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xlii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:French miners on the river, of the Revolution of 1848--Invitation to dine at best-built log cabin on the river--The habitation of five or six young miners--A perfect marvel of a fireplace--Huge unsplit logs as firewood--Window of glass jars--Possibilities in the use of empty glass containers--Unthrift of some miners--The cabin, its furniture, store of staple provisions, chinaware, cutlery--The dinner in the cabin--A cow kept--Wonderful variety of makeshift candlesticks in use among the miners--Dearth of butter, potatoes, onions, fresh meat, in camp--Indian-summer weather at Indian Bar--A cozy retreat in the hills--A present of feathered denizens of the mountains--Roasted for dinner.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: FOURTEENTH<HSEP>PAGE 191<LB>SPRINGTIDE--LINGUISTICS--STORMS--ACCIDENTS<LB>THE splendor of a March morning in the mountains of California--The first bird of the season--Blue and red shirted miners a feature of the landscape--"Wanderers from the whole broad earth"--The languages of many nations heard--How the Americans attempt to converse with the Spanish-speaking population--"Sabe," "vamos," "poco tiempo," "si," and "bueno," a complete lexicon of la lengua castellana, in the minds of the Americans--An "ugly disposition" manifested when the speaker is not understood--The Spaniards "ain't kinder like eour folks," nor "folksy"--Mistakes not all on one side--Spanish proverb regarding certain languages--Not complimentary to English--Stormy weather--Storm king a perfect Proteus--River on a rampage--Sawmill carried away--Pastimes of the miners during the storm--MS. account of storm sent in keg via river to Marysville newspaper--Silversmith makes gold rings during storm--Raffling and reraffling of same as pastime--Some natural gold rings--Nugget in shape of eagle's head presented to author--Miners buried up to neck in cave-in--Escape with but slight injury--Miner stabbed without provocation in drunken frolic--Life despaired of at first--No notice taken of affair.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: FIFTEENTH<HSEP>PAGE 205<LB>MINING METHODS--MINERS, GAMBLERS, &amp;C.<LB>DIFFICULTY experienced in writing amid the charms of California mountain scenery--Science the blindest guide on a gold-hunting expedition--Irreverent contempt of the beautiful mineral to the dictates of science--Nothing better to be expected from the root of all evil--Foreigners more successful than Americans in its pursuit--Americans always <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:longing for big strikes--Success lies in staying and persevering--How a camp springs into existence--Prospecting, panning out, and discovery that it pays--The claim--Building the shanty--Spreading of news of the new diggings--Arrival of the monte-dealers--Industrious begin digging for gold--The claiming system--How claims worked--Working difficult amidst huge mountain rocks--Partnerships then compulsory--Naming the mine or company--The long-tom--Panning out the gold--Sinking shaft to reach bed-rock--Drifting coyote-holes in search of crevices--Water-ditches and water companies--Washing out in long-tom--Waste-ditches--Tailings--Fluming companies--Rockers--Gold-mining is nature's great lottery scheme--Thousands taken out in a few hours--Six ounces in six months--"Almost all seem to have lost"--Jumped claims--Caving in of excavations--Abandonment of expensive paying shafts--Miner making "big strike" almost sure prey of professional gamblers--As spring opens, gamblers flock in like birds of prey--After stay of only four days, gambler leaves Bar with over a thousand dollars of miners' gold--As many foreigners as Americans on the river--Foreigners generally extremely ignorant and degraded--Some Spaniards of the highest education and accomplishment--Majority of Americans mechanics of better class--Sailors and farmers next in number--A few merchants and steamboat-clerks--A few physicians--One lawyer--Ranchero of distinguished appearance an accomplished monte-dealer and horse-jockey--Is said to have been a preacher in the States--Such not uncommon for California.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: SIXTEENTH<HSEP>PAGE 223<LB>BIRTH--STABBING--FOREIGNERS OUSTED--REVELS<LB>CALIFORNIA mountain flora--A youthful Kanaka mother--Her feat of pedestrianism--Stabbing of a Spaniard by an American--The result of a request to pay a debt--Nothing done and but little said about the atrocity--Foreigners barred from working at Rich Bar--Spaniards thereupon move to Indian Bar--They erect places for the sale of intoxicants--Many new houses for public entertainment at Indian Bar--Sunday "swearing, drinking, gambling, and fighting"--Salubrity of the climate--No death for months, except by accidental drowning in flood-water--Capture of two grizzly cubs--"The oddest possible pets"--"An echo from the outside world once a month."</P>
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146.sgm:<P>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: SEVENTEENTH<HSEP>PAGE 231<LB>SUPPLIES BY PACK-MULES--KANAKAS AND INDIANS<LB>BELATED arrival of pack-mule train with much-needed supplies--Picturesque appearance of the dainty-footed mules descending the steep hills--Of every possible color--Gay trappings--Tinkling bells--Peculiar urging cry of the Spanish muleteers--Lavish expenditure of gold-dust for vegetables and butter--Potatoes forty cents a pound--Incense of the pungent member of the lily family--Arrival of other storm-bound trains, and sudden collapse in prices--A horseback-ride on dangerous mule-trail--Fall of oxen over precipice--The mountain flowers, oaks, and rivulets--Visit to Kanaka mother--A beauty from the isles--Hawaiian superstition--An unfortunate request for the baby as a present--Consolatory promise to give the next one--Indian visitors--Head-dresses--"Very tight and very short shirts"--Indian mode of life--Their huts, food, cooking, utensils, manner of eating--Sabine-like invasion leaves to tribe but a few old squaws--"Startlingly unsophisticated state of almost entire nudity"--Their filthy habits--Papooses fastened in framework of light wood--Indian modes of fishing--A handsome but shy young buck--Classic gracefulness of folds of white-sheet robe of Indian--Light and airy step of the Indians something superhuman--Miserably brutish and degraded--Their vocabulary of about twenty words--Their love of gambling, and its frightful consequences--Arrival of hundreds of people at Indian Bar--Saloons springing up in every direction--Fluming operations rapidly progressing--A busy, prosperous summer looked for.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: EIGHTEENTH<HSEP>PAGE 247<LB>FOURTH OF JULY FESTIVAL--SPANISH ATTACKED<LB>FOURTH OF JULY celebration at Rich Bar--The author makes the flag--Its materials--How California was represented therein--Floated from the top of a lofty pine-tree--The decorations at the Empire Hotel--An "officious Goth" mars the floral piece designed for the orator of the day--Only two ladies in the audience--Two others are expected, but do not arrive--No copy of the Declaration of Independence--Some preliminary speeches by political aspirants--Orator of the day reads anonymous poem--Oration "exceedingly fresh and new"--Belated arrival of the expected ladies, new-comers from the East--With new fashions, they extinguish the author and her companion--Dinner at the Empire--Mexican War captain as president--"Toasts quite spicy and original"--Fight in the barroom--Eastern lady "chose to go faint" at sight of blood--Cabin full of "infant phenomena"--A rarity in the mountains--Miners, on way home from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:celebration, give nine cheers for mother and children--Outcry at Indian Bar against Spaniards--Several severely wounded--Whisky and patriotism--Prejudices and arrogant assurance accounted for--Misinterpretation by the foreigner--Injustices by the lower classes against Spaniards pass unnoticed--Innumerable drunken fights--Broken heads and collarbones, stabbings--"Sabbaths almost always enlivened by such merry events"--Body of Frenchman found in river--Murder evident--Suspicion falls on nobody.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xlvi</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: TWENTIETH<HSEP>PAGE 281<LB>MURDER--MINING SCENES--SPANISH BREAKFAST<LB>RAMADA, unoccupied, wrecked by log rolling down hill--Was place of residence of wounded Spaniard, who had died but a few days previously--Murder near Indian Bar--Innocent and harmless person arrested, said to answer description of murderer--A humorous situation--A "guard of honor" from the vigilantes while in custody--Upon release his expenses all paid--Enjoyed a holiday from hard work--Tendered a present and a handsome apology--Public opinion in the mines a cruel but fortunately a fickle thing--Invitation to author to breakfast at Spanish garden--The journey thereto, along river, with its busy mining scenes--The wing-dam, and how it differs from the ordinary dam--An involuntary bath--Drifts, shafts, coyote-holes--How claims are worked--Flumes--Unskilled work-men--Their former professions or occupations--The best water in California, but the author is unappreciative--Flavorless, but, since the Flood, always tastes of sinners--Don Juan's country-seat--The Spanish breakfast--The eatables and the drinkables--Stronnger spirits for the stronger spirits--Ice, through oversight, the only thing lacking--Yank's tame cub--Parodic doggerel by the author on her loss of pets--A miners' dinner-party with but one teaspoon, and that one borrowed--An unlearned and wearisome blacksmith.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: TWENTY-FIRST<HSEP>PAGE 297<LB>DISCOMFORTS OF TRIP TO POLITICAL CONVENTION<LB>VISIT to the American Valley--Journey thither--Scenes by the way--Political convention--Delegates from Indian Bar--Arrival at Greenwood's Rancho, headquarters of Democrats--Overcrowded--Party proceed to the American Rancho, headquarters of Whigs--Also overcrowded--Tire-some ride of ladies on horseback--Proceed to house of friend of lady in party--An inhospitable reception--The author entertains herself--Men of party return to the American Rancho--Fearful inroad upon the eatables--Landlord aghast, but pacified by generous orders for drinkables--California houses not proof against eavesdroppers--Misunderstandings and explanations overheard by the author--Illness of hostes--Uncomfortable and miserable night, and worse quarters--Handsome riding-habit, etc., of the hostess--Table-service, carpeting, chests of tea, casks of sugar, bags of coffee, etc., "the good people possessed everything but a house"--"The most beautiful spot I ever saw in California"--Owner building house of huge hewn logs--The author returns to the American Rancho--Its primitive furniture, etc.--Political visitors--The convention--Horse-racing and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xlvii</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:gambling--The author goes to Greenwood's Rancho--More primitive furniture and lack of accommodation--Misplaced benevolence of Bostonians--Should transfer their activities to California.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: TWENTY-SECOND<HSEP>PAGE 317<LB>THE OVERLAND TIDE OF IMMIGRATION<LB>EXONERATION of landlords for conditions at Greenwood's Rancho--The American Valley--Prospective summer resort--Prodigious vegetables--New England scenery compared with that of California--Greenwood's Rancho--Place of origin of quartz hoax--Beautiful stones--Recruiting-place of overland immigrants--Haggard immigrant women--Death and speedy burial on the plains--Handsome young widow immigrant--Aspirants to matrimony candidates for her hand--Interesting stories of adventures on the plains--Four women, sisters or sisters-in-law, and their thirty-six children--Accomplished men--Infant prodigies--A widow with eight sons and one daughter--Primitive laundering, but generous patrons--The bloomer costume appropriate for overland journey--Dances in barroom--Unwilling female partners--Some illiterate immigrants--Many intelligent and well-bred women--The journey back to Indian Bar--The tame frog in the rancho barroom--The dining-table a bed at night--Elation of the author on arriving at her own log cabin.<LB>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: TWENTY-THIRD<HSEP>PAGE 335<LB>MINING FAILURES--DEPARTURE FROM INDIAN BAR<LB>DREAD of spending another winter at Indian Bar--Failure of nearly all the fluming companies--Official report of one company--Incidental failure of business people--The author's preparations to depart--Prediction of early rains--High prices cause of dealers' failure to lay in supply of provisions--Probable fatal results to families unable to leave Bar--Rain and snow alternately--The Squire a poor weather prophet--Pack-mule trains with provisions fail to arrive--Amusement found in petty litigation--Legal acumen of the Squire--He wins golden opinions--The judgment all the prevailing party gets--What the constable got in effort to collect judgment--Why Dr. C.'s fee was not paid--A prescription of "calumny and other pizen doctor's stuff"--A wonderful gold specimen in the form of a basket--"Weighs about two dollars and a half"--How little it takes to make people comfortable--A log-cabin meal and its table-service--The author departs on horseback from Indian Bar--Her regrets upon leaving the mountains--"Feeble, half-dying invalid not recognizable in your now perfectly healthy sister."</P>
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146.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm:<P>1.  GOLD-WASHING IN WICKER BASKETS--AMERICANS AND HISPANO-CALIFORNIANS WITH INDIANS<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
146.sgm:<LB>This is a composite engraving, a very interesting feature of which is the Indians and their wicker baskets, the latter going out of use when metal pans were obtainable, which also displaced wooden bowls and homely makeshifts.  This feature is resketched from a rare old print in the possession of the Van Ness family of San Francisco.  The huts are specimens of ramadas, popular with the Spanish-speaking miners, and frequently mentioned by Shirley.<LB>2.  SUTTER'S MILL, COLOMA, WHERE GOLD WAS ACCIDENTALLY DISCOVERED IN JANUARY, 1848<HSEP>FACES PAGE 42<LB>This fine engraving follows closely, in all essential details, that in the Voyages en Californie et dans l'Ore&acute;gon, par M. de Saint-Amant, Envoye&acute; du Gouvernement Franc&cedil;ais, en 1851-1852 (Paris, 1854).  The engravings in that volume, although poorly printed on a cheap grade of book-paper, are noted for their accuracy, and are interesting as showing the methods etc. of the miners while Shirley was writing her Letters.  The tail-race, in the foreground, is where James Wilson Marshall and Peter L. Wimmer first saw the nuggets, but Marshall was the first to pick up a specimen.  Much has been written of Marshall; the Wimmers were of the Western pioneer type.<LB>3.  GROUND-SLUICING<HSEP>FACES PAGE 86<LB>This spirited engraving is resketched, in essentials, from a woodcut in Henry De Groot's Recollections of California Mining Life (1884), also in his Gold Mines and Mining in California (1885).  Ground-sluicing is done in winter, when water is abundant and the ground soft, the pay-dirt being thrown into a channel made for the purpose, and down which the water rushes.  The gold settles on the bed-rock, and is collected later, when the water-run has subsided.<LB>4.  PAN, CRADLE OR ROCKER, LONG-TOM, SLUICE-WASHING--DRIFTING, WINDLASS AND SHAFT<HSEP>FACES PAGE 132<LB>The varied and animated scene depicted in this plate is resketched from De Groot's Gold Mines and Mining in California.  (See note to plate 3, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">January</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: JOURNEY <HI REND="italics">to</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>A THOUSAND people and but one physician--The author's husband seeks health and business--Journey through deep snow, in midsummer, to reach Rich Bar--The revivifying effect of mountain atmosphere--Arrival of twenty-nine physicians in less than three weeks--The author's purpose to leave San Francisco and join her husband at the mines--Direful predictions and disapprobation of friends--Indelicacy of her position among an almost exclusively male population--Indians, ennui, cold--Leaves for Marysville--Scanty fare on way--Meets husband--Falls from mule--An exhausting ride--A midnight <HI REND="italics">petit souper</HI>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I CAN easily imagine, dear M., the look of large wonder which gleams from your astonished eyes when they fall upon the date of this letter.  I can figure to myself your whole surprised attitude as you exclaim, "What, in the name of all that is restless, has sent `Dame Shirley' to Rich Bar?  How did such a shivering, frail, home-loving little thistle ever float safely to that far-away spot, and take root so kindly, as it evidently has, in that barbarous soil?  Where, in this living, breathing world of ours, lieth that same Rich Bar, which, sooth to say, hath a most taking name?  And, for pity's sake, how does the poor little fool expect to amuse herself there?"</P>
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146.sgm:<P>Patience, sister of mine.  Your curiosity is truly laudable, and I trust that before you read the postscript of this epistle it will be fully and completely relieved.  And, first, I will merely observe <HI REND="italics">en passant</HI>
146.sgm:, reserving a full description of its discovery for a future letter, that said Bar forms a part of a mining settlement situated on the East Branch of the North Fork of Feather River, "away off up in the mountains," as our "little Faresoul" would say, at almost the highest point where, as yet, gold has been discovered, and indeed within fifty miles of the summit of the Sierra Nevada itself.  So much, at present, for our <HI REND="italics">local</HI>
146.sgm:<P>You already know that F., after suffering for an entire year with fever and ague, and bilious, remittent, and intermittent fevers, --this delightful list varied by an occasional attack of jaundice, --was advised, as a <HI REND="italics">dernier ressort</HI>
146.sgm:, to go into the mountains.  A friend, who had just returned from the place, suggested Rich Bar as the terminus of his health-seeking journey, not only on account of the extreme purity of the atmosphere, but because there were more than a thousand people <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>F. was just recovering from a brain-fever when he concluded to go to the mines; but, in spite of his excessive debility, which rendered him liable to chills at any hour of the day or night, he started on the seventh day of June--mounted on a mule, and accompanied by a jackass to carry his baggage, and a friend who kindly volunteered to assist him in spending his money--for this wildly beautiful spot.  F. was compelled by sickness to stop several days on the road.  He suffered intensely, the trail for many miles being covered to the depth of twelve feet with snow, although it was almost midsummer when he passed over it.  He arrived at Rich Bar the latter part of June, and found the revivifying effect of its bracing atmosphere far surpassing his most sanguine hopes.  He soon built himself an office, which was a perfect marvel to the miners, from its superior elegance.  It is the only one on the Bar, and I intend to visit it in a day or two, when I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:will give you a description of its architectural splendors.  It will perhaps enlighten you as to one peculiarity of a newly discovered mining district, when I inform you that although there were but two or three physicians at Rich Bar when my husband arrived, in less than three weeks there were <HI REND="italics">twenty-nine</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Finding his health so almost miraculously improved, F. concluded, should I approve the plan, to spend the winter in the mountains.  I had teased him to let me accompany him when he left in June, but he had at that time refused, not daring to subject me to inconveniences, of the extent of which he was himself ignorant.  When the letter disclosing his plans for the winter reached me at San Francisco, I was perfectly enchanted.  You know that I am a regular nomad in my passion for wandering.  Of course my numerous acquaintances in San Francisco raised one universal shout of disapprobation.  Some said that I ought to be put into a strait-jacket, for I was undoubtedly mad to think of such a thing.  Some said that I should never get there alive, and if I <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
146.sgm:, would not stay a month; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:and others sagely observed, with a profound knowledge of the habits and customs of the aborigines of California, that, even if the Indians <HI REND="italics">did not</HI>
146.sgm:<P>You have no idea of the hand-to-mouth sort of style in which most men in this country are in the habit of living.  Of course, as usual with them, the person who had charge of the house was out of provisions when we arrived.  Luckily, I had dined a couple of stages back, and as we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>About half an hour before sunset, having taken an affecting farewell of the turkeys, the geese, my darling chickens, --about eighty in number, to nearly every one of which I had given an appropriate name, --the dog, a horrid little imp of a monkey, poor P.  <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm: his pet ague, we started merrily for Marysville, intending to arrive there about supper-time.  But, as has been said at <HI REND="italics">least</HI>
146.sgm: a thousand times before, "Man proposes, but God disposes," for, scarcely had we lost sight of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:house, when, all of a sudden, I found myself lying about two feet deep in the dust, my saddle, being too large for the mule, having turned, and deposited me on that safe but disagreeable couch.  F., of course, was sadly frightened, but as soon as I could clear my mouth and throat from dirt, which filled eyes, nose, ears, and hair, not being in the least hurt, I began to laugh like a silly child, which had the happy effect of quite reassuring my esposo.  But such a looking object as I was, I am sure you never saw.  It was impossible to recognize the original color of habit, hat, boots, or gloves.  F. wished me to go back, put on clean clothes, and make a fresh start; but you know, M., that when I make up my <HI REND="italics">mind</HI>
146.sgm: to it, I can be as willful as the gentlest of my sex; so I decidedly refused, and, the road being <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
146.sgm:<P>As F. feared another edition of my downfall, he would not allow the mules to canter or trot; so they <HI REND="italics">walked</HI>
146.sgm: all the way to Marysville, where we arrived at midnight.  There we came within an ace of experiencing number two of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:"accidents," by taking our <HI REND="italics">nunc dimittis</HI>
146.sgm: in the form of a death by starvation.  We had not eaten since breakfast, and as the fires were all extinguished and the servants had retired at the hotel, we, of course, could get nothing very nourishing <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
146.sgm:.  I had no idea of regaling <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
146.sgm: fainting stomach upon pie and cheese, <HI REND="italics">even</HI>
146.sgm: including those tempting and sawdustiest of luxuries, <HI REND="italics">crackers</HI>
146.sgm:!  So F., dear soul, went to a restaurant and ordered a <HI REND="italics">petit souper</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The next morning, F. was taken seriously ill with one of his bilious attacks, and did not leave his bed until the following Saturday, when he started for Bidwell's Bar, a rag city about thirty-nine miles from Marysville, taking both the mules with him, and leaving me to follow in the stage.  He made this arrangement because he thought it would be easier for me than riding the entire way.</P>
146.sgm:<P>On Monday, the 8th of September, I seated myself in the most excruciatingly springless wagon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>We passed one place where a number of Indian women were gathering flower-seeds, which, mixed with pounded acorns and grasshoppers, form the bread of these miserable people.  The idea, and the really ingenious mode of carrying it out, struck me as so singular, that I cannot forbear attempting a description.  These poor creatures were entirely naked, with the exception of a quantity of grass bound round the waist, and covering the thighs midway to the knees, perhaps.  Each one carried two brown baskets, which, I have since been told, are made of a species of osier, woven with a neatness which is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:absolutely marvelous, when one considers that they are the handiwork of such degraded wretches.  Shaped like a cone, they are about six feet in circumference at the opening, and I should judge them to be nearly three feet in depth.  It is evident, by the grace and care with which they handle them, that they are exceedingly light.  It is possible that my description may be inaccurate, for I have never read any account of them, and merely give my own impressions as they were received while the wagon rolled rapidly by the spot at which the women were at work.  One of these queer baskets is suspended from the back, and is kept in place by a thong of leather passing across the forehead.  The other they carry in the right hand and wave over the flower-seeds, first to the right, and back again to the left, alternately, as they walk slowly along, with a motion as regular and monotonous as that of a mower.  When they have collected a handful of the seeds, they pour them into the basket behind, and continue this work until they have filled the latter with their strange harvest.  The seeds thus gathered are carried to their rancheri&acute;as, and stowed away with great care for winter use.  It was, to me, very interesting to watch their regular motion, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>Ten miles this side of Bidwell's Bar, the road, hitherto so smooth and level, became stony and hilly.  For more than a mile we drove along the edge of a precipice, and so near, that it seemed to me, should the horses deviate a hairbreadth from their usual track, we must be dashed into eternity.  Wonderful to relate, I did not "Oh!" nor "Ah!" nor shriek <HI REND="italics">once</HI>
146.sgm:, but remained crouched in the back of the wagon, as silent as death.  When we were again in safety, the driver exclaimed, in the classic patois of New England, "Wall, I guess yer the fust woman that ever rode over that are hill without hollering."  He evidently did not know that it was the intensity of my <HI REND="italics">fear</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Soon Table Mountain became visible, extended like an immense dining-board for the giants, its summit a perfectly straight line penciled for more than a league against the glowing sky.  And now we found ourselves among the Red Hills, which look like an ascending sea of crimson waves, each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>I arrived there at three o'clock in the evening, when I found F. in much better health than when he left Marysville.  As there was nothing to sleep <HI REND="italics">in</HI>
146.sgm: but a tent, and nothing to sleep <HI REND="italics">on</HI>
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146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: FIRST<LB>Part Two</HEAD>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">February</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>A MOONLIT midsummer-night's ride on muleback-Joyous beginning--The Indian trail lost--Camping out for the night--Attempts in the morning to find the trail--A trying ride in the fierce heat of midday--The trail found--A digression of thirty miles--Lack of food, and seven miles more to ride--To rest is impossible--Mad joy when within sight of Berry Creek Rancho--Congratulations on escape from Indians on trail--Frenchman and wife murdered--The journey resumed--Arrival at the "Wild Yankee's"--Breakfast with fresh butter and cream--Indian bucks, squaws, and papooses--Their curiosity--Pride of an Indian in ability to repeat one line of a song--Indian women: extreme beauty of their limbs; slender ankles and statuesque feet; haggardness of expression and ugliness of features--Girl of sixteen, a "wildwood Cleopatra," an exception to the general hideousness--The California Indian not the Indian of the Leatherstocking tales--A stop at the Buckeye Rancho--Start for Pleasant Valley Rancho--The trail again lost--Camping out for the night--Growling bears--Arrive at Pleasant Valley Rancho--A flea-haunted shanty--The beauty of the wilderness--Quail and deer--The chaparrals, and their difficulty of penetration by the mules--Escape from a rattlesnake--Descending precipitous hill on muleback--Saddle-girth breaks--Harmless fall from saddle--Triumphant entry into Rich Bar--A tribute to mulekind--The Empire Hotel--"A huge shingle palace."</P>
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146.sgm:<P>RICH BAR, EAST BRANCH <HI REND="italics">of the</HI>
146.sgm: NORTH FORK <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
146.sgm:<P>THE MOON was just rising as we started.  The air made one think of fairy-festivals, of living in the woods <HI REND="italics">always</HI>
146.sgm:<P>We sped merrily onward until nine o'clock, making the old woods echo with song and story and laughter, for F. was unusually gay, and I was in tip-top spirits.  It seemed to me so <HI REND="italics">funny</HI>
146.sgm: that we two people should be riding on mules, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:all by ourselves, in these glorious latitudes, night smiling down so kindly upon us, and, funniest of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
146.sgm:, that we were going to live in the Mines!  In spite of my gayety, however, I now began to wonder why we did not arrive at our intended lodgings.  F. reassured me by saying that when we had <HI REND="italics">de</HI>
146.sgm: scended this hill or <HI REND="italics">as</HI>
146.sgm: cended that, we should certainly be there.  But ten o'clock came; eleven, twelve, one, <HI REND="italics">two</HI>
146.sgm:!  but no Berry Creek House!  I began to be frightened, and besides that, was very sick with a nervous headache.  At every step we were getting higher and higher into the mountains, and even F. was at last compelled to acknowledge that we were <HI REND="italics">lost</HI>
146.sgm:!  We were on an Indian trail, and the bushes grew so low that at almost every step I was obliged to bend my forehead to my mule's neck.  This increased the pain in my head to an almost insupportable degree.  At last I told F. that I could not remain in the saddle a moment longer.  Of course there was nothing to do but to camp.  Totally unprepared for such a catastrophe, we had nothing but the blankets of our mules, and a thin quilt in which I had rolled some articles necessary for the journey, because it was easier to pack than a traveling-bag.  F. told me to sit on the mule <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:while he prepared my woodland couch, but I was too nervous for that, and so jumped off and dropped onto the ground, worn out with fatigue and pain.  The night was still dreamily beautiful, and I should have been enchanted with the adventure (for I had fretted and complained a good deal, because we had no <HI REND="italics">excuse</HI>
146.sgm: for camping out) had it not been for that impertinent headache, which, you remember, always <HI REND="italics">would</HI>
146.sgm:<P>About daylight, somewhat refreshed, we again mounted our mules, confidently believing that an hour's ride would bring us to the Berry Creek House, as we supposed, of course, that we had camped in its immediate vicinity.  We tried more than a dozen paths, which, as they led <HI REND="italics">nowhere</HI>
146.sgm:, we would retrace to the principal trail.  At last F. determined to keep upon one, as it <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
146.sgm:, he thought, in <HI REND="italics">time</HI>
146.sgm:, lead us out of the mountains, even if we landed on the other side of California.  Well, we rode on, and on, and on, up hill and down hill, down hill and up, through fir-groves and oak-clumps, and along the edge of dark ravines, until I thought that I should go <HI REND="italics">mad</HI>
146.sgm:, for all this time the sun was pouring down its hottest rays most pitilessly, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>About two o'clock we struck the main trail, and, meeting a man, --the first human being that we had seen since we left Bidwell's, --were told that we were seven miles from the Berry Creek House, and that we had been down to the North Fork of the American River, more than thirty miles out of our way!  This joyful news gave us fresh strength, and we rode on as fast as our worn-out mules could go.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Although we had eaten nothing since noon the day before, I bore up bravely until we arrived within two miles of the rancho, when courage and strength both gave way, and I <HI REND="italics">implored</HI>
146.sgm:<P>My poor husband!  He must have had a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:trying time with me, for I sobbed and cried like the veriest child, and repeatedly declared that I should never live to get to the rancho.  F. said afterwards that he began to think I intended to keep my word, for I certainly <HI REND="italics">looked</HI>
146.sgm:<P>O Mary! it makes me <HI REND="italics">shudder</HI>
146.sgm: when I think of the mad joy with which I saw that rancho!  Remember that, with the exception of three or four hours the night before, we had been in the saddle for nearly twenty-four hours without refreshment.  When we stopped, F. carried me into the house and laid me onto a bunk, though I have no remembrance of it, and he said that when he offered me some food, I turned from it with disgust, exclaiming, "Oh, take it away! give me some cold water and let me <HI REND="italics">sleep</HI>
146.sgm:, and be sure you don't wake me for the next three weeks."  And I <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
146.sgm:, with a forty slumber-power; and when F. came to me late in the evening with some tea and toast, I awoke, oh!  <HI REND="italics">so</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Every one that we met congratulated us upon not having encountered any Indians, for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>After a good night's rest we are perfectly well, and as happy as the day itself, --which was one of Heaven's own choosing, --and rode to the "Wild Yankee's," where we breakfasted, and had, among other dainties, fresh butter and cream.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Soon after we alighted, a <HI REND="italics">herd</HI>
146.sgm: of Indians, consisting of about a dozen men and squaws, with an unknown quantity of papooses, --the last naked as the day they were born, --crowded into the room to stare at us.  It was the most amusing thing in the world to see them finger my gloves, whip, and hat, in their intense curiosity.  One of them had caught the following line of a song, "O, carry me back to old Martinez," with which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>On this occasion I was more than ever struck with what I have often remarked before, --the extreme beauty of the <HI REND="italics">limbs</HI>
146.sgm: of the Indian women of California.  Though for haggardness of expression and ugliness of feature they might have been taken for a band of Macbethian witches, a bronze statue of Cleopatra herself never folded more beautifully rounded arms above its dusky bosom, or poised upon its pedestal a slenderer ankle or a more statuesque foot, than those which gleamed from beneath the dirty blankets of these wretched creatures.  There was one exception, however, to the general hideousness of their faces.  A girl of sixteen, perhaps, with those large, magnificently lustrous, yet at the same time soft, eyes, so common in novels, so rare in real life, had shyly glided like a dark, beautiful spirit into the corner of the room.  A fringe of silken jet swept heavily upward from her dusky cheek, athwart which the richest color came and went like flashes of lightning.  Her flexible lips curved slightly away from teeth like strips of cocoanut meat, with a mocking <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:grace infinitely bewitching.  She wore a cotton chemise, --disgustingly dirty, I must confess, --girt about her slender waist with a crimson handkerchief, while over her night-black hair, carelessly knotted beneath the rounded chin, was a purple scarf of knotted silk.  Her whole appearance was picturesque in the extreme.  She sat upon the ground with her pretty brown fingers languidly interlaced above her knee, "round as a <HI REND="italics">period</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I was perfectly enraptured with this wildwood Cleopatra, and bored F. almost beyond endurance with exclamations about her starry eyes, her chiseled limbs, and her beautiful nut-brown cheeks.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I happened to take out of my pocket a paper of pins, when all the women begged for some of them.  This lovely child still remained silent in the posture of exquisite grace which she had so unconsciously assumed, but, nevertheless, she looked as pleased as any of them when I gave her, also, a row of the much-coveted treasures.  But I found I had got myself into business, for all the men wanted pins too, and I distributed the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:entire contents of the papers which I happened to have in my pocket, before they were satisfied, much to the amusement of F., who only laughs at what he is pleased to call my absurd interest in these poor creatures; but you know, M., I always <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
146.sgm: "take" to Indians, though it must be said that those who bear that name here have little resemblance to the glorious forest heroes that live in the Leatherstocking tales, and in spite of my desire to find in them something poetical and interesting, a stern regard for truth compels me to acknowledge that the dusky beauty above described is the only even moderately <HI REND="italics">pretty</HI>
146.sgm:<P>At noon we stopped at the Buckeye Rancho for about an hour, and then pushed merrily on for the Pleasant Valley Rancho, which we expected to reach about sundown.  Will you, <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
146.sgm: you, believe that we got lost again?  Should you travel over this road, you would not be at all surprised at the repetition of this misfortune.  Two miles this side of Pleasant Valley, which is very large, there is a wide, bare plain of red stones which one is compelled to cross in order to reach it, and I should not think that even in the day-time any one but an Indian could keep the trail <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>About eleven o'clock we went back into the woods and camped for the night.  Our bed was quite comfortable, and my saddle made an excellent pillow.  Being so much higher in the mountains, we were a little chilly, and I was disturbed two or three times by a distant noise, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Here they informed us that "we had escaped a great marcy," as old Jim used to say in relating his successful run from a wolf, inasmuch as the grizzlies had not devoured us during the night!  But, seriously, dear M., my heart thrills with gratitude to the Father for his tender care of us during that journey, which, view it as lightly as we may, was certainly attended with <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding we had endured so much fatigue, I felt as well as ever I did, and after breakfast insisted upon pursuing our journey, although F. anxiously advised me to defer it until next day.  But imagine the horror, the <HI REND="italics">cre&grave;me de la cre&grave;</HI>
146.sgm: of borosity, of remaining for twelve mortal hours of wakefulness in a filthy, uncomfortable, flea-haunted shanty, without books or papers, when Rich Bar--easily attainable before night, through the loveliest scenery, shining in the yellow splendor of an autumnal morn--lay before us!  <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
146.sgm: had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I wish I could give you some faint idea of the majestic solitudes through which we passed, --where the pine-trees rise so grandly in their awful height, that they seem to look into heaven itself.  Hardly a living thing disturbed this solemnly beautiful wilderness.  Now and then a tiny lizard glanced in and out among the mossy roots of the old trees, or a golden butterfly flitted languidly from blossom to blossom.  Sometimes a saucy little squirrel would gleam along the somber trunk of some ancient oak, or a bevy of quail, with their pretty tufted heads and short, quick tread, would trip athwart our path.  Two or three times, in the radiant distance, we descried a stately deer, which, framed in by embowering leaves, and motionless as a tableau, gazed at us for a moment with its large, limpid eyes, and then bounded away with the speed of light into the evergreen depths of those glorious old woods.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Sometimes we were compelled to cross broad plains, acres in extent, called chaparrals, covered with low shrubs, which, leafless and barkless, stand like vegetable skeletons along the dreary waste.  You cannot imagine what a weird effect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>But what a lovely sight greeted our enchanted eyes as we stopped for a few moments on the summit of the hill leading into Rich Bar!  Deep in the shadowy nooks of the far-down valleys, like wasted jewels dropped from the radiant sky above, lay half a dozen blue-bosomed lagoons, glittering and gleaming and sparkling in the sunlight as though each tiny wavelet were formed of rifted diamonds.  It was worth the whole wearisome journey--danger from Indians, grizzly bears, sleeping under the stars, and all--to behold this beautiful vision.  While I stood breathless with admiration, a singular sound, and an exclamation of "A rattlesnake!" from F., startled me into common sense again.  I gave one look at the reptile, horribly beautiful, like a chain of living opals, as it corkscrewed itself into that peculiar spiral which it is compelled to assume in order to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The hill leading into Rich Bar is five miles long, and as steep as you can imagine.  Fancy yourself riding for this distance along the edge of a frightful precipice, where, should your mule make a misstep, you would be dashed hundreds of feet into the awful ravine below.  Every one we met tried to discourage us, and said that it would be impossible for me to ride down it.  They would take F. aside, much to my amusement, and tell him that he was assuming a great responsibility in allowing me to undertake such a journey.  I, however, insisted upon going on.  About halfway down we came to a level spot, a few feet in extent, covered with sharp slate-stones.  Here the girth of my saddle, which we afterwards found to be fastened only by four <HI REND="italics">tacks</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>F. soon mended the saddle-girth.  I mounted my darling little mule, and rode triumphantly into Rich Bar at five o'clock in the evening.  The Rich Barians are astonished at my courage in daring to ride down the hill.  Many of the miners have told me that they dismounted several times while descending it.  I, of course, feel very vain of my exploit, and glorify myself accordingly, being particularly careful, all the time, not to inform my admirers that my courage was the result of the know-nothing, fear-nothing principle; for I was certainly ignorant, until I had passed them, of the dangers of the passage.  Another thing that prevented my dismounting was the apparently utter impossibility, on such a steep and narrow path, of mounting again.  Then, I had much more confidence in my mule's power of picking the way and keeping his footing, than in my own.  It is the prettiest sight in the world to see these cunning creatures stepping so daintily and cautiously among the rocks.  Their pretty little feet, which absolutely do not look larger than a silver dollar, seem made on purpose for the task.  They are often perfect little vixens with their masters, but an old mountaineer, who has ridden them for twenty years, told me that he never knew <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>We are boarding, at present, at the "Empire," a huge shingle palace in the center of Rich Bar, which I will describe in my next letter.  Pardon, dear M., the excessive egotism of this letter; but you have often flattered me by saying that my epistles were only interesting when profusely illuminated by that manuscriptal decoration represented by a great <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">March</HI>
146.sgm:<P>RICH BAR--ITS HOTELS <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>THE EMPIRE HOTEL, <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>RICH BAR, EAST BRANCH <HI REND="italics">of the</HI>
146.sgm: NORTH FORK <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I BELIEVE that I closed my last letter by informing you that I was safely ensconced--after all the hairbreadth escapes of my wearisome, though at the same time delightful, journey--under the magnificent roof of the "Empire," which, by the way, is <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: hotel of the place, not but that nearly ever other shanty on the Bar claims the same grandiloquent title.  Indeed, for that matter, California herself might be called the Hotel State, so completely is she inundated with taverns, boarding-houses, etc.  The Empire is the only two-story building in town, and absolutely has a live "upstairs."  Here you will find two or three glass windows, an unknown luxury in all the other dwellings.  It is built of planks of the roughest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:possible description.  The roof, of course, is covered with canvas, which also forms the entire front of the house, on which is painted, in immense capitals, the following imposing letters: "THE EMPIRE!"  I will describe, as exactly as possible, this grand establishment.  You first enter a large apartment, level with the street, part of which is fitted up as a barroom, with that eternal crimson calico which flushes the whole social life of the Golden State with its everlasting red, in the center of a fluted mass of which gleams a really elegant mirror, set off by a background of decanters, cigar-vases, and jars of brandied fruit; the whole forming a <HI REND="italics">tout ensemble</HI>
146.sgm: of dazzling splendor.  A table covered with a green cloth, --upon which lies a pack of monte-cards, a backgammon-board, and a sickening pile of "yallow-kivered" literature, --with several uncomfortable-looking benches, complete the furniture of this most important portion of such a place as "The Empire."  The remainder of the room does duty as a shop, where velveteen and leather, flannel shirts and calico ditto, --the latter starched to an appalling state of stiffness, --lie cheek by jowl with hams, preserved meats, oysters, and other groceries, in hopeless confusion.  From the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:barroom you ascend by four steps into the parlor, the floor of which is covered by a straw carpet.  This room contains quite a decent looking-glass, a sofa fourteen feet long and a foot and a half wide, painfully suggestive of an aching back, --of course covered with red calico (the sofa, <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
146.sgm: the back), --a round table with a green cloth, six cane-bottom chairs, red-calico curtains, a cooking-stove, a rocking-chair, <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm: a woman and a baby, (of whom more anon,) the latter wearing a scarlet frock, to match the sofa and curtains.  A flight of four steps leads from the parlor to the upper story, where, on each side of a narrow entry, are four eight-feet-by-ten bedrooms, the floors of which are covered by straw matting.  Here your eyes are again refreshed with a glittering vision of red-calico curtains gracefully festooned above wooden windows picturesquely lattice-like.  These tiny chambers are furnished with little tables covered with oilcloth, and bedsteads so heavy that nothing short of a giant's strength could move them.  Indeed, I am convinced that they were built, piece by piece, on the spot where they now stand.  The entire building is lined with purple calico, alternating with a delicate blue, and the effect is really quite pretty.  The floors are so very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:uneven that you are always ascending a hill or descending into a valley.  The doors consist of a slight frame covered with dark-blue drilling, and are hung on hinges of leather.  As to the kitchen and dining-room, I leave to your vivid imagination to picture their primitiveness, merely observing that nothing was ever more awkward and unworkmanlike than the whole tenement.  It is just such a piece of carpentering as a child two years old, gifted with the strength of a man, would produce, if it wanted to play at making grown-up houses.  And yet this impertinent apology for a house cost its original owners more than eight thousand dollars.  This will not be quite so surprising when I inform you that, at the time it was built, everything had to be packed from Marysville at a cost of forty cents a pound.  Compare this with the price of freight on the railroads at home, and you will easily make an estimate of the immense outlay of money necessary to collect the materials for such an under-taking at Rich Bar.  It was built by a company of gamblers as a residence for two of those unfortunates who make a trade--a thing of barter--of the holiest passion, when sanctified by <HI REND="italics">love</HI>
146.sgm:, that ever thrills the wayward heart of poor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:humanity.  To the lasting honor of <HI REND="italics">miners</HI>
146.sgm: be it written, the <HI REND="italics">speculation</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Mr. B., the landlord of the Empire, was a Western farmer who with his wife crossed the plains about two years ago.  Immediately on his arrival he settled at a mining station, where he remained until last spring, when he removed to Rich Bar.  Mrs. B. is a gentle and amiable looking woman, about twenty-five years of age.  She is an example <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:of the terrible wear and tear to the complexion in crossing the plains, hers having become, through exposure at that time, of a dark and permanent yellow, anything but becoming.  I will give you a key to her character, which will exhibit it better than weeks of description.  She took a nursing babe, eight months old, from her bosom, and left it with two other children, almost infants, to cross the plains in search of gold!  When I arrived she was cooking supper for some half a dozen people, while her really pretty boy, who lay kicking furiously in his champagne-basket cradle, and screaming with a six-months-old-baby power, had, that day, completed just two weeks of his earthly pilgrimage.  The inconvenience which she suffered during what George Sand calls "the sublime martyrdom of maternity" would appal the wife of the humblest pauper of a New England village.  Another woman, also from the West, was with her at the time of her infant's birth, but scarcely had the "latest-found" given the first characteristic shriek of its debut upon the stage of life, when this person herself was taken seriously ill, and was obliged to return to her own cabin, leaving the poor exhausted mother entirely alone!  Her husband lay seriously sick himself at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Besides Mrs. B., there are three other women on the Bar.  One is called "the Indiana girl," from the name of her pa's hotel, though it must be confessed that the sweet name of <HI REND="italics">girl</HI>
146.sgm: seems sadly incongruous when applied to such a gigantic piece of humanity.  I have a great desire to see her, which will probably not be gratified, as she leaves in a few days for the valley.  But, at any rate, I can say that I have <HI REND="italics">heard</HI>
146.sgm: her.  The far-off roll of her mighty voice, booming through two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:closed doors and a long entry, added greatly to the severe attack of nervous headache under which I was suffering when she called.  This gentle creature wears the thickest kind of miner's boots, and has the dainty habit of wiping the dishes on her apron!  Last spring she <HI REND="italics">walked</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Mr. and Mrs. B., who have three pretty children, reside in a log cabin at the entrance of the village.  One of the little girls was in the barroom to-day, and her sweet and birdlike voice brought tearfully, and yet joyfully, to my memory "Tear-soul," "Leilie," and "Lile Katie."</P>
146.sgm:<P>Mrs. B., who is as small as "the Indiana girl" is large (indeed, I have been confidently informed that she weighs but sixty-eight pounds), keeps, with her husband, the "Miners' Home."</P>
146.sgm:<P>(Mem.--The lady tends bar.)  <HI REND="italics">Voila&grave;</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<illus entity="a146-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S MILL, COLOMA, WHERE GOLD WAS ACCIDENTALLY DISCOVERED IN JANUARY, 1848</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: Pioneer, <HI REND="italics">April</HI>
146.sgm:<P>LIFE <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm: FORTUNE <HI REND="italics">at the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>FLASHY shops and showy houses of San Francisco--Rich Bar charmingly fresh and original--A diminutive valley--Ri&acute;o de las Plumas, or Feather River--Rich Bar, the Barra Rica of the Spaniards--An acknowledgment of "a most humiliating consciousness of geological deficiencies"--Palatial splendor of the Empire Hotel--Round tents, square tents, plank hovels, log cabins, etc.--"Local habitations" formed of pine boughs, and covered with old calico shirts--The "office" of Dr. C. excites the risibilities of the author--One of the "finders" of Rich Bar--Had not spoken to a woman for two years--Honors the occasion by an "investment" in champagne--The author asists in drinking to the honor of her arrival at the Bar--Nothing done in California without the sanctifying influence of the "spirit"--History of the discovery of gold at Rich Bar--Thirty-three pounds of gold in eight hours--Fifteen hundred dollars from a panful of "dirt"--Five hundred miners arrive at Rich Bar in about a week--Smith Bar, Indian Bar, Missouri Bar, and other bars--Miners extremely fortunate--Absolute wealth in a few weeks--Drunken gamblers in less than a year--Suffering for necessaries of life--A mild winter--A stormy spring--Impassable trails--No pack-mule trains arrive--Miners pack flour on their backs for over forty miles--Flour at over three dollars a pound--Subsistence on feed-barley--A voracious miner--An abundance stored.</P>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>RICH BAR, EAST BRANCH <HI REND="italics">of the</HI>
146.sgm: NORTH FORK <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I INTEND, to-day, dear M., to be as disagreeably statistical and as praiseworthily matter-of-factish as the most dogged utilitarian could desire.  I shall give you a full, true, and particular account of the discovery, rise, and progress of this place, with a religious adherence to <HI REND="italics">dates</HI>
146.sgm: which will rather astonish your unmathematical mind.  But let me first describe the spot as it looked to my wondering and unaccustomed eyes.  Remember, I had never seen a mining district before, and had just left San Francisco, amid whose flashy-looking shops and showy houses the most of my time had been spent since my arrival in the Golden State.  Of course, to me, the <HI REND="italics">coup d' &oelig;il</HI>
146.sgm: of Rich Bar was charmingly fresh and original.  Imagine a tiny <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:valley about eight hundred yards in length, and perhaps thirty in width, (it was measured for my especial information,) apparently hemmed in by lofty hills, almost perpendicular, draperied to their very summits with beautiful fir-trees, the blue-bosomed Plumas (or Feather River, I suppose I must call it) undulating along their base, --and you have as good an idea as I can give you of the <HI REND="italics">local</HI>
146.sgm:<P>In almost any of the numerous books written upon California, no doubt you will be able to find a most scientific description of the origin of these bars.  I must acknowledge with shame that my ideas on the subject are distressingly vague.  I could never appreciate the poetry or the humor of making one's wrists ache by knocking to pieces gloomy-looking stones, or in dirtying one's fingers by analyzing soils, in a vain attempt to fathom the osteology or anatomy of our beloved earth, though my heart is thrillingly alive to the faintest shade of color and the infinite variety of styles in which she delights to robe her ever-changeful and ever-beautiful <HI REND="italics">surface</HI>
146.sgm:.  In my unscientific mind, the <HI REND="italics">formations</HI>
146.sgm: are without form, and void; and you might as well talk Chinese to me, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Through the middle of Rich Bar runs the street, thickly planted with about forty tenements, among which figure round tents, square tents, plank hovels, log cabins, etc., the residences <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>To-day I visited the "office," the only one on the river.  I had heard so much about it from others, as well as from F., that I really <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
146.sgm:<P>At my loud laugh (which, it must be confessed, was noisy enough to give the whole street assurance of the presence of a woman) F. looked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>During my call at the office I was introduced to one of the <HI REND="italics">finders</HI>
146.sgm: of Rich Bar, --a young Georgian, --who afterwards gave me a full description of all the facts connected with its discovery.  This unfortunate had not spoken to a woman for two years, and, in the elation of his heart at the joyful event, he rushed out and invested capital in some excellent champagne, which I, on Willie's principle of "doing in Turkey as the Turkeys do," assisted the company in drinking, to the honor of my own arrival.  I mention this as an instance that nothing can be done in California without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:the sanctifying influence of the <HI REND="italics">spirit</HI>
146.sgm:, and it generally appears in a much more "questionable shape" than that of sparkling wine.  Mr. H. informed me that on the 20th of July, 1850, it was rumored at Nelson's Creek--a mining station situated at the Middle Fork of the Feather River, about eighty miles from Marysville--that one of those vague "Somebodies," a near relation of the "They-Says," had discovered mines of a remarkable richness in a northeasterly direction, and about forty miles from the first-mentioned place.  Anxious and immediate search was made for "Somebody," but, as our Western brethren say, he "wasn't thar'."  But his absence could not deter the miners when once the golden rumor had been set afloat.  A large company packed up their goods and chattels, generally consisting of a pair of blankets, a frying-pan, some flour, salt pork, brandy, pickax and shovel, and started for the new Dorado.  They "traveled, and traveled, and traveled," as we used to say in the fairy-stories, for nearly a week, in every possible direction, when, one evening, weary and discouraged, about one hundred of the party found themselves at the top of that famous hill which figures so largely in my letters, whence the river can be distinctly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:seen.  Half of the number concluded to descend the mountain that night, the remainder stopping on the summit until the next morning.  On arriving at Rich Bar, part of the adventurers camped there, but many went a few miles farther down the river.  The next morning, two men turned over a large stone, beneath which they found quite a sizable piece of gold.  They washed a small panful of the dirt, and obtained from it two hundred and fifty-six dollars.  Encouraged by this success, they commenced staking off the legal amount of ground allowed to each person for mining purposes, and, the remainder of the party having descended the hill, before night the entire bar was "claimed."  In a fortnight from that time, the two men who found the first bit of gold had each taken out six thousand dollars.  Two others took out thirty-three pounds of gold in eight hours, which is the best day's work that has been done on this branch of the river.  The largest amount ever taken from one panful of dirt was fifteen hundred dollars.  In a little more than a week after its discovery, five hundred men had settled upon the Bar for the summer.  Such is the wonderful alacrity with which a mining town is built.  Soon after was discovered, on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Those who worked in these mines during the fall of 1850 were extremely fortunate, but, alas! the monte fiend ruined hundreds.  Shall I tell you the fate of the most successful of these gold-hunters?  From poor men, they found themselves, at the end of a few weeks, absolutely rich.  Elated with their good fortune, seized with a mania for monte, in less than a year these unfortunates, so lately respectable and intelligent, became a pair of drunken gamblers.  One of them, at this present writing, works for five dollars a day, and boards himself out of that; the other actually suffers for the necessaries of life, - a too common result of scenes in the mines.</P>
146.sgm:<P>There were but few that dared to remain in the mountains during the winter, for fear of being buried in the snow, of which, at that time, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:had a most vague idea.  I have been told that in these sheltered valleys it seldom falls to the depth of more than a foot, and disappears almost invariably within a day or two.  Perhaps there were three hundred that concluded to stay, of which number two thirds stopped on Smith's Bar, as the labor of mining there is much easier than it is here.  Contrary to the general expectation, the weather was delightful until about the middle of March.  It then commenced storming, and continued to snow and rain incessantly for nearly three weeks.  Supposing that the rainy season had passed, hundreds had arrived on the river during the previous month.  The snow, which fell several feet in depth on the mountains, rendered the trail impassable, and entirely stopped the pack trains.  Provisions soon became scarce, and the sufferings of these unhappy men were indeed extreme.  Some adventurous spirits, with true Yankee hardihood, forced their way through the snow to the Frenchman's rancho, and packed flour <HI REND="italics">on their backs</HI>
146.sgm: for more than forty miles!  The first meal that arrived sold for three dollars a pound.  Many subsisted for days on nothing but barley, which is kept here to feed the pack-mules on.  One unhappy individual, who could not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:obtain even a little barley for love or money, and had eaten nothing for three days, forced his way out to the Spanish Rancho, fourteen miles distant, and in less than an hour after his arrival had devoured <HI REND="italics">twenty-seven</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
146.sgm:<P>ACCIDENTS--SURGERY--DEATH--FESTIVITY</P>
146.sgm:<P>FRIGHTFUL accidents to which the gold-seeker is constantly liable--Futile attempts of physician to save crushed leg of young miner--Universal outcry against amputation--Dr. C., however, uses the knife--Professional reputation at stake--Success attends the operation--Death of another young miner, who fell into mining-shaft--His funeral--Picturesque appearance of the miners thereat--Of what the miner's costume consists--Horror of the author aroused in contemplation of the lonely mountain-top graveyard--Jostling of life and death--Celebration of the anniversary of Chilian independence--Participation of a certain class of Yankees therein--The procession--A Falstaffian leader--The feast--A twenty-gallon keg of brandy on the table, gracefully encircled by quart dippers -- The Chilen&tilde;os reel with a better grace, the Americans more naturally.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>RICH BAR, EAST BRANCH <HI REND="italics">of the</HI>
146.sgm: NORTH FORK <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
146.sgm:<P>THERE has been quite an excitement here for the last week, on account of a successful amputation having been performed upon the person of a young man by the name of W.  As I happen to know all the circumstances of the case, I will relate them to you as illustrative of the frightful accidents to which the gold-seekers are constantly liable, and I can assure you that similar ones happen very often.  W. was one of the first who settled on this river, and suffered extremely from the scarcity of provisions during the last winter.  By steady industry in his laborious vocation, he had accumulated about four thousand dollars.  He was thinking seriously of returning to Massachusetts with what he had already gained, when, in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:early part of last May, a stone, unexpectedly rolling from the top of Smith's Hill, on the side of which he was mining, crushed his leg in the most shocking manner.  Naturally enough, the poor fellow shrank with horror from the idea of an amputation here in the mountains.  It seemed absolutely worse than death.  His physician, appreciating his feelings on the subject, made every effort to save his shattered limb, but, truly, the Fates seemed against him.  An attack of typhoid fever reduced him to a state of great weakness, which was still further increased by erysipelas--a common complaint in the mountains--in its most virulent form.  The latter disease, settling in the fractured leg, rendered a cure utterly hopeless.  His sufferings have been of the most intense description.  Through all the blossoming spring, and a summer as golden as its own golden self, of our beautiful California he has languished away existence in a miserable cabin, his only nurses men, some of them, it is true, kind and good, others neglectful and careless.  A few weeks since, F. was called in to see him.  He decided immediately that nothing but an amputation would save him.  A universal outcry against it was raised by nearly all the other physicians on the Bar.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:They agreed, <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
146.sgm:, that he could live but a few weeks unless the leg--now a mere lump of disease--was taken off.  At the same time, they declared that he would certainly expire under the knife, and that it was cruel to subject him to any further suffering.  You can perhaps imagine F.'s anxiety.  It was a great responsibility for a young physician to take.  Should the patient die during the operation, F.'s professional reputation would, of course, die with him; but he felt it his duty to waive all selfish considerations, and give W. that one chance, feeble as it seemed, for his life.  Thank God, the result was most triumphant.  For several days existence hung upon a mere thread.  He was not allowed to speak or move, and was fed from a teaspoon, his only diet being milk, which we obtained from the Spanish Rancho, sending twice a week for it.  I should have mentioned that F. decidedly refused to risk an operation in the small and miserable tent in which W. had languished away nearly half a year, and he was removed to the Empire the day previous to the amputation.  It is almost needless to tell you that the little fortune, to accumulate which he suffered so much, is now nearly exhausted.  Poor fellow! the philosophy and cheerful resignation with which he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>As I sat by the bedside of our poor invalid, yielding myself up to a world of dreamy visionings suggested by the musical sweep of the pine branch which I waved above his head, and the rosy sunset flushing the western casement with its soft glory, he suddenly opened his languid eyes and whispered, "The Chilen&tilde;o procession is returning.  Do you not hear it?"  I did not tell him-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>That the weary sound, and the heavy breath,<LB>And the silent motions of passing death,<LB>And the smell, cold, oppressive, and dank,<LB>Sent through the pores of the coffin-plank,</HI>
146.sgm:<P>had already informed me that a far other band than that of the noisy South Americans was solemnly marching by.  It was the funeral train of a young man who was instantly killed, the evening before, by falling into one of those deep pits, sunk for mining purposes, which are scattered over the Bar in almost every direction.  I rose quietly and looked from the window.  About a dozen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:persons were carrying an unpainted coffin, without pall or bier (the place of the latter being supplied by ropes), up the steep hill which rises behind the Empire, on the top of which is situated the burial-ground of Rich Bar.  The bearers were all neatly and cleanly dressed in their miner's costume, which, consisting of a flannel shirt (almost always of a dark-blue color), pantaloons with the boots drawn up over them, and a low-crowned, broad-brimmed black felt hat (though the fashion of the latter is not invariable), is not, simple as it seems, so unpicturesque as you might perhaps imagine.  A strange horror of that lonely mountain graveyard came over me as I watched the little company wending wearily up to the solitary spot.  The "sweet habitude of being"-- not that I fear <HI REND="italics">death</HI>
146.sgm:, but that I love <HI REND="italics">life</HI>
146.sgm: as, for instance, Charles Lamb loved it--makes me particularly affect a cheerful burial-place.  I know that it is dreadfully unsentimental, but I should like to make my last home in the heart of a crowded city, or, better still, in one of those social homes of the dead, which the Turks, with a philosophy so beautiful and so poetical, make their most cheerful resort.  Singularly enough, Christians seem to delight in rendering death particularly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>How oddly do life and death jostle each other in this strange world of ours!  How nearly allied are smiles and tears!  My eyes were yet moist from the egotistical <HI REND="italics">pitie&acute; de moi-me&circ;me</HI>
146.sgm: in which I had been indulging at the thought of sleeping forever amid these lonely hills, which in a few years must return to their primeval solitude, perchance never again to be awakened by the voice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:of humanity, when the Chilen&tilde;o procession, every member of it most intensely drunk, really <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
146.sgm: appear.  I never saw anything more diverting than the whole affair.  Of course, <HI REND="italics">selon les re&grave;gles</HI>
146.sgm:, I ought to have been shocked and horrified, to have shed salt tears, and have uttered melancholy jeremiads over their miserable degradation; but the world is so full of platitudes, my dear, that I think you will easily forgive me for not boring you with a temperance lecture, and will good-naturedly let me have my laugh, and not think me <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
146.sgm:<P>You must know that to-day is the anniversary of the independence of Chile.  The procession got up in honor of it consisted, perhaps, of twenty men, nearly a third of whom were of that class of Yankees who are particularly noisy and particularly conspicuous in all celebrations where it is each man's most onerous duty to get what is technically called "tight."  The man who headed the procession was a complete comic poem in his own individual self.  He was a person of Falstaffian proportions and coloring, and if a brandy-barrel ever <HI REND="italics">does</HI>
146.sgm: "come alive," and, donning a red shirt and buckskin trousers, betake itself to pedestrianism, it will look more like my hero <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:than anything else that I can at present think of.  With that affectionateness so peculiar to people when they arrive at the sentimental stage of intoxication, although it was with the greatest difficulty that he could sustain his own corporosity, he was tenderly trying to direct the zigzag footsteps of his companion, a little withered-up, weird-looking Chilen&tilde;o.  Alas for the wickedness of human nature!  The latter, whose drunkenness had taken a Byronic and misanthropical turn, rejected with the basest ingratitude these delicate attentions.  Do not think that my incarnated brandy-cask was the only one of the party who did unto others as he would they should do unto him, for the entire band were officiously tendering to one another the same good-Samaritan-like assistance.  I was not astonished at the Virginia-fence-like style of their marching when I heard a description of the feast of which they had partaken a few hours before.  A friend of mine, who stepped into the tent where they were dining, said that the board--really, <HI REND="italics">board</HI>
146.sgm: --was arranged with a bottle of claret at each plate, and, after the cloth (metaphorically speaking, I mean, for tablelinen is a mere myth in the mines) was removed, a twenty-gallon keg of brandy was placed in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:center, with quart dippers gracefully encircling it, that each one might help himself as he pleased.  Can you wonder, after that, that every man vied with his neighbor in illustrating Hogarth's line of beauty?  It was impossible to tell which nation was the more gloriously drunk; but this I <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm: say, even at the risk of being thought partial to my own beloved countrymen, That, though the Chilen&tilde;os reeled with a better grace, the Americans did it more <HI REND="italics">naturally</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">June</HI>
146.sgm:<P>DEATH <HI REND="italics">of a</HI>
146.sgm: MOTHER--LIFE <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>DEATH of one of the four pioneer women of Rich Bar--The funeral from the log-cabin residence--Sickly ten-months-old baby moans piteously for its mother--A handsome girl of sick years, unconscious of her bereavement, shocks the author by her actions--A monte-table cover as a funeral pall--Painful feelings when nails are driven into coffin--The extempore prayer--Every observance possible surrounded the funeral--Visit to a canvas house of three "apartments"--Barroom, dining-room, kitchen with bed-closet--A sixty-eight-pound woman--"A magnificent woman, a wife of the right sort"--"Earnt her `old man' nine hundred dollars in nine weeks, by washing"--The "manglers" and the "mangled"--Fortitude of refined California women pioneers--The orphaned girl a "cold-blooded little wretch"--Remorse of the author--"Baby decanters"--The gayety and fearlessness of the orphaned girl.</P>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>RICH BAR, EAST BRANCH <HI REND="italics">of the</HI>
146.sgm: NORTH FORK <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
146.sgm:<P>IT SEEMS indeed awful, dear M., to be compelled to announce to you the death of one of the four women forming the female population of this Bar.  I have just returned from the funeral of poor Mrs. B., who died of peritonitis (a common disease in this place), after an illness of four days only.  Our hostess herself heard of her sickness but two days since.  On her return from a visit which she had paid to the invalid, she told me that although Mrs. B.'s family did not seem alarmed about her, in her opinion she would survive but a few hours.  Last night we were startled by the frightful news of her decease.  I confess that, without being very egotistical, the death of one, out of a community of four women, might well alarm the remainder.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Her funeral took place at ten this morning.  The family reside in a log cabin at the head of the Bar, and although it has no window, all the light admitted entering through an aperture where there <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm: be a door when it becomes cold enough for such a luxury, yet I am told, and can easily believe, that it is one of the most <HI REND="italics">comfortable</HI>
146.sgm:<P>On a board, supported by two butter-tubs, was extended the body of the dead woman, covered with a sheet.  By its side stood the coffin, of unstained pine, lined with white cambric.  You, who have alternately laughed and scolded at my provoking and inconvenient deficiency in the power of observing, will perhaps wonder at the minuteness of my descriptions; but I know how deeply you are interested in everything relating to California, and therefore I take pains to describe things exactly as I <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
146.sgm: them, hoping that thus you will obtain an idea of life in the mines <HI REND="italics">as it is</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The bereaved husband held in his arms a sickly babe ten months old, which was moaning piteously for its mother.  The other child, a handsome, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>About twenty men, with the three women of the place, had assembled at the funeral.  An extempore prayer was made, filled with all the peculiarities usual to that style of petition.  Ah, how different from the soothing verses of the glorious burial service of the church!</P>
146.sgm:<P>As the procession started for the hillside graveyard, a dark cloth cover, borrowed from a neighboring monte-table, was flung over the coffin.  Do not think that I mention any of these circumstances in a spirit of mockery.  Far from it.  Every observance usual on such occasions, that was <HI REND="italics">procurable</HI>
146.sgm:, surrounded this funeral.  All the gold on Rich Bar could do no more; and should I die to-morrow, I should be marshaled to my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I almost forgot to tell you how painfully the feelings of the assembly were shocked by the sound of the nails (there being no screws at any of the shops) driven with a hammer into the coffin while closing it.  It seemed as if it <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
146.sgm:<P>To-day I called at the residence of Mrs. R.  It is a canvas house containing a suite of three "apartments," as Dick Swiveller would say, which, considering that they were all on the ground-floor, are kept surprisingly neat.  There is a barroom blushing all over with red calico, a dining-room, kitchen, and a small bed-closet.  The little sixty-eight-pounder woman is queen of the establishment.  By the way, a man who walked home with us was enthusiastic in her praise.  "Magnificent woman, that, sir," he said, addressing my husband; "a wife of the right sort, <HI REND="italics">she</HI>
146.sgm: is.  Why," he added, absolutely rising into eloquence as he spoke, "she earnt her <HI REND="italics">old man</HI>
146.sgm: " (said individual twenty-one years of age, perhaps) "nine hundred dollars in nine weeks, clear of all expenses, by washing!  Such women ain't common, I tell <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
146.sgm:.  If they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:were, a man might marry, and make money by the operation."  I looked at this person with somewhat the same kind of <HI REND="italics">inverted</HI>
146.sgm: admiration wherewith Leigh Hunt was wont to gaze upon that friend of his "who used to elevate the common-place to a pitch of the sublime," and he looked at <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
146.sgm: as if to say, that, though by no means gloriously arrayed, I was a mere cumberer of the ground, inasmuch as I toiled not, neither did I wash.  Alas!  I hung my diminished head, particularly when I remembered the eight dollars a dozen which I had been in the habit of paying for the washing of linen-cambric pocket-handkerchiefs while in San Francisco.  But a lucky thought came into my mind.  As all men cannot be Napoleon Bonapartes, so all women cannot be <HI REND="italics">manglers</HI>
146.sgm:.  The majority of the sex must be satisfied with simply being <HI REND="italics">mangled</HI>
146.sgm:.  Reassured by this idea, I determined to meekly and humbly pay the amount per dozen required to enable this really worthy and agreeable little woman "to lay up her hundred dollars a week, clear of expenses."  But is it not wonderful what femininity is capable of?  To look at the tiny hands of Mrs. R., you would not think it possible that they could wring out anything larger than a doll's nightcap; but, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Mr. B. called on us to-day with little Mary.  I tried to make her, at least, look sad as I talked about her mother; but although she had seen the grave closed over her coffin (for a friend of her father's had carried her in his arms to the burial), she seemed laughingly indifferent to her loss.  Being myself an orphan, my heart contracted painfully at her careless gayety when speaking of her dead parent, and I said to our hostess, "What a cold-blooded little wretch it is!"  But immediately my conscience struck me with remorse.  Poor orphaned one!  Poor bereaved darling!  Why should I so cruelly wish to darken her young life with that knowledge which a few years' experience will so painfully teach her?  "All <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
146.sgm: mother came into my eyes" as I bent down and kissed the white lids which shrouded her beautiful dark orbs, and, taking her fat little hand in mine, I led her to my room, where, in the penitence of my heart, I gave her everything that she desired.  The little chatterer was enchanted, not having had any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Mr. B. intends, in a day or two, to take his children to their grandmother, who resides somewhere near Marysville, I believe.  This is an awful place for children, and nervous mothers would "die daily" if they could see little Mary running fearlessly to the very edge of, and looking down into, these holes (many of them sixty feet in depth), which have been excavated in the hope of finding gold, and of course left open.</P>
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146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONER, <HI REND="italics">July</HI>
146.sgm:<P>USE <HI REND="italics">it</HI>
146.sgm: PROFANITY--UNCERTAINTY <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>PREVALENCE of profanity in California--Excuses for its use--A slip of the tongue, etc.--Grotesqueness of some blasphemous expressions--Sleep-killing mining machinery--What a flume is--Project river for many miles--The California mining system a gambling or lottery transaction--Miner who works his own claim the more successful--Dr. C. a loser in his mining ventures--Another sleep-killer--Bowling-alleys--Bizarre cant phrases and slang used by the miners--"Honest Indian?"--"Talk enough when horses fight"--"Talk enough between gentlemen"--"I've got the dead-wood on him"--"I'm going nary cent" (on person mistrusted)--All carry the freshness of originality to the author's ear.</P>
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146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>RICH BAR, EAST BRANCH <HI REND="italics">of the</HI>
146.sgm: NORTH FORK <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I THINK that I have never spoken to you of the mournful extent to which profanity prevails in California.  You know that at home it is considered <HI REND="italics">vulgar</HI>
146.sgm: for a gentleman to swear; but I am told that here it is absolutely the fashion, and that people who never uttered an oath in their lives while in the "States," now clothe themselves with curses as with a garment.  Some try to excuse themselves by saying that it is a careless habit, into which they have glided imperceptibly from having been compelled to associate so long with the vulgar and the profane; that it is a mere slip of the tongue, which means absolutely nothing; etc.  I am willing to believe this, and to think as charitably as possible of many persons here, who have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:unconsciously adopted a custom which I know they abhor.  Whether there is more profanity in the mines than elsewhere, I know not; but, during the short time that I have been at Rich Bar, I have <HI REND="italics">heard</HI>
146.sgm: more of it than in all my life before.  Of course the most vulgar blackguard will abstain from swearing in the <HI REND="italics">presence</HI>
146.sgm: of a lady, but in this rag-and-cardboard house one is <HI REND="italics">compelled</HI>
146.sgm: to hear the most sacred of names constantly profaned by the drinkers and gamblers, who haunt the barroom at all hours.  And this is a custom which the gentlemanly and quiet proprietor, much as he evidently dislikes it, cannot possibly prevent.  Some of these expressions, were they not so fearfully blasphemous, would be grotesquely sublime.  For instance, not five minutes ago I heard two men quarreling in the street, and one said to the other, "Only let me get hold of your beggarly carcass once, and I will use you up so small that God Almighty himself cannot see your <HI REND="italics">ghost</HI>
146.sgm:<P>To live thus, in constant danger of being hushed to one's rosy rest by a ghastly lullaby of oaths, is revolting in the extreme.  For that reason, and because it is infinitely more comfortable during the winter season than a plank house, F. has concluded to build a log cabin, where, at least, I shall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:not be <HI REND="italics">obliged</HI>
146.sgm:<P>But it is not the swearing alone which disturbs my slumber.  There is a dreadful flume, the machinery of which keeps up the most dismal moaning and shrieking all the livelong night, painfully suggestive of a suffering child.  But, O dear! you don't know what that is, do you?  Now, if I were scientific, I should give you such a vivid description of it that you would see a pen-and-ink flume staring at you from this very letter.  But, alas! my own ideas on the subject are in a state of melancholy vagueness.  I will do the best possible, however, in the way of explanation.  A flume, then, is an immense trough which takes up a portion of the river, and with the aid of a dam compels it to run in another channel, leaving the vacated bed of the stream ready for mining purposes.</P>
146.sgm:<P>There is a gigantic project now on the tapis, of fluming the entire river for many miles, commencing a little above Rich Bar.  Sometimes these fluming companies are eminently successful; at others, their operations are a dead failure.</P>
146.sgm:<P>But, in truth, the whole mining system in California is one great gambling or, better perhaps, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>A few weeks since, F. paid a thousand dollars for a claim which has proved utterly worthless.  He might better have thrown his money into the river than to have bought it, and yet some of the most experienced miners on the Bar thought that it would pay.</P>
146.sgm:<P>But I began to tell you about the different noises which disturb my peace of mind by day and my repose of body by night, and have gone, instead, into a financial disquisition upon mining prospects.  Pray forgive me, even though I confess that I intend, some day, when I feel statistically inclined, to bore you with some profound remarks upon the claiming, drifting, sluicing, ditching, fluming, and coyoting politics of the "diggins."</P>
146.sgm:<P>But to return to my sleep-murderers.  The rolling on the bowling-alley never leaves off for ten consecutive minutes at any time during the entire twenty-four hours.  It is a favorite amusement at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:the mines, and the only difference that Sunday makes is, that then it never leaves off for <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Besides the flume and the bowling-alley, there is an inconsiderate dog which <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm: bark from starry eve till dewy morn.  I fancy that he has a wager on the subject, as all the other <HI REND="italics">puppies</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Apropos of dogs, I found dear old Dake, the noble Newfoundland which H. gave us, look as intensely black and as grandly aristocratical as ever.  He is the only high-bred dog on the river.  There is another animal, by the plebeian name of John (what a name for a <HI REND="italics">dog</HI>
146.sgm:!), really a handsome creature, which looks as if he might have a faint sprinkling of good blood in his veins.  Indeed, I have thought it possible that his great-grandfather was a bulldog.  But he always barks at <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
146.sgm:, which I consider as proof positive that he is nothing but a low-born mongrel.  To be sure, his master says, to excuse him, that he never saw a woman before; but a dog of any chivalry would have recognized the gentler sex, even if it <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
146.sgm:<P>In the first part of my letter I alluded to the swearing propensities of the Rich Barians.  Those, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>For instance, if you tell a Rich Barian anything which he doubts, instead of simply asking you if it is true, he will <HI REND="italics">invariably</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Again, they will agree to a proposal with the appropriate words, "Talk enough when horses fight!" which sentence they will sometimes slightly vary to "Talk enough between gentlemen."</P>
146.sgm:<P>If they wish to borrow anything of you, they will mildly inquire if you have it "about your clothes."  As an illustration: a man asked F., the other day, if he had a spare pickax about his clothes.  And F. himself gravely inquired of me this evening, at the dinner-table, if I had a <HI REND="italics">pickle</HI>
146.sgm:<P>If they ask a man an embarrassing question, or in any way have placed him in an equivocal position, they will triumphantly declare that they have "got the dead-wood on him."  And they are everlastingly "going nary cent" on those of whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<illus entity="a146-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GROUND-SLUICING</P>
146.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: NEW LOG-CABIN HOME <HI REND="italics">at</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>CHANGE of residence to Indian Bar--Whether to go to the new camp on muleback over the hill, or on foot by crossing the river--The water-passage decided upon--An escort of Indian Barians--Magnificence of scenery on the way--Gold-miners at work--Their implements--"The color"--The Stars and Stripes on a lofty treetop--A camp of tents and cabins--Some of calico shirts and pine boughs--Indian Bar described--Mountains shut out the sun--The "Humbolt" (spelled without the <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
146.sgm: on the sign) the only hotel in the camp--A barroom with a dancing-floor--A cook who plays the violin--A popular place--Clinking glasses and swaggering drinkers--"No place for a lady"--The logcabin residence--Its primitive and makeshift furnishings--The library--No churches, society, etc.--"No vegetables but potatoes and onions, no milk, no eggs, no <HI REND="italics">nothing</HI>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">October 7</HI>
146.sgm:<P>YOU WILL perchance be surprised, dear M., to receive a letter from me dated Indian instead of Rich Bar, but, as many of F.'s most intimate friends reside at this settlement, he concluded to build his log cabin here.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Solemn council was held upon the ways and means of getting "Dame Shirley" to her new home.  The general opinion was, that she had better mount her fat mule and ride over the hill, as all agreed that it was very doubtful whether she would be able to cross the logs and jump the rocks which would bar her way by the water-passage.  But that obstinate little personage, who has always been haunted with a passionate desire to do everything which people said she could <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
146.sgm: do, made up her willful mind immediately to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>It is impossible, my sister, for any power of language, over which <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
146.sgm: have command, to convey to you an idea of the wild grandeur and the awful magnificence of the scenery in this vicinity.  This fork of the Feather River comes down very much as the water does at Lodore, now gliding along with a liquid measure like a river in a dream, and anon bursting into a thousand glittering foambeads over the huge rocks, which rise dark, solemn, and weird-like in its midst.  The crossings are formed of logs, often moss-grown.  Only think how charmingly picturesque to eyes wearied with the costly masonry or carpentry of the bridges at home! At every step gold-diggers, or their operations, greet your vision, sometimes in the form of a dam, sometimes in that of a river turned slightly from its channel to aid the indefatigable goldhunters in their mining projects.  Now, on the side of a hill, you will see a long-tom, a huge machine invented to facilitate the separation of the ore from its native element; or a man busily engaged in working a rocker, a much smaller and simpler <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>As we approached Indian Bar the path led several times fearfully near deep holes, from which the laborers were gathering their yellow harvest, and Dame Shirley's small head swam dizzily as she crept shudderingly by.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The first thing which attracted my attention as my new home came in view, was the blended blue, red, and white of the American banner undulating like a many-colored snake amid the lofty verdure of the cedars which garland the brown brow of the hill behind our cabin.  This flag was suspended on the Fourth of July last by a patriotic sailor, who climbed to the top of the tree to which he attached it, cutting away the branches as he descended, until it stood among its stately brethren a beautiful moss-wreathed liberty-pole, flinging to the face of heaven the glad colors of the Free.</P>
146.sgm:<P>When I attempt, dear M., to describe one of these spots to you, I regret more than ever the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>This Bar is so small that it seems impossible that the tents and cabins scattered over it can amount to a dozen.  There are, however, twenty in all, including those formed of calico shirts and pine boughs.  With the exception of the paths leading to the different tenements, the entire level is covered with mining-holes, on the edges of which lie the immense piles of dirt and stones which have been removed from the excavations.  There is a deep pit in front of our cabin, and another at the side of it, though they are not worked, as, when "prospected," they did not "yield the color."</P>
146.sgm:<P>Not a spot of verdure is to be seen on this place, but the glorious hills rising on every side, vested in foliage of living green, make ample amends for the sterility of the tiny level upon which we camp.  The surrounding scenery is infinitely more charming than that of Rich Bar.  The river, in hue <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>At present the sun does not condescend to shine upon Indian Bar at all, and the old settlers tell me that he will not smile upon us for the next three months, but he nestles lovingly in patches of golden glory all along the brows of the different <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>The first artificial elegance which attracts your vision is a large rag shanty, roofed, however, with a rude kind of shingles, over the entrance of which is painted, in red capitals, ("to what base uses do we come at last,") the name of the great Humboldt spelt without the <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The room into which we have just entered is about twenty feet square.  It is lined over the top with white cotton cloth, the breadths of which, being sewed together only in spots, stretch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:gracefully apart in many places, giving one a bird's-eye view of the shingles above.  The sides are hung with a gaudy chintz, which I consider a perfect marvel of calico-printing.  The artist seems to have exhausted himself on <HI REND="italics">roses</HI>
146.sgm:.  From the largest cabbage down to the tiniest Burgundy, he has arranged them in every possible variety of wreath, garland, bouquet, and single flower.  They are of all stages of growth, from earliest budhood up to the ravishing beauty of the "last rose of summer."  Nor has he confined himself to the colors usually worn by this lovely plant, but, with the daring of a great genius soaring above nature, worshiping the ideal rather than the real, he has painted them brown, purple, green, black, and blue.  It would need a floral catalogue to give you the names of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
146.sgm:<P>A curtain of the above-described chintz (I shall hem it at the first opportunity) divides off a portion of the room, behind which stands a bedstead that in ponderosity leaves the Empire couches far behind.  But before I attempt the furniture let me finish describing the cabin itself.</P>
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146.sgm:<P>The fireplace is built of stones and mud, the chimney finished off with alternate layers of rough sticks and this same rude mortar.  Contrary to the usual custom, it is built inside, as it was thought that arrangement would make the room more comfortable, and you may imagine the queer appearance of this unfinished pile of stones, mud, and sticks.  The mantelpiece (remember that on this portion of a great building some artists, by their exquisite workmanship, have become world renowned) is formed of a beam of wood covered with strips of tin procured from cans, upon which still remain, in black hieroglyphics, the names of the different eatables which they formerly contained.  Two smooth stones (how delightfully primitive!) do duty as fire-dogs.  I suppose that it would be no more than civil to call a hole two feet square, in one side of the room, a window, although it is as yet guiltless of glass.  F. tried to coax the proprietor of the Empire to let him have a window from that pine-and-canvas palace, but he, of course, declined, as to part with it would really inconvenience himself.  So F. has sent to Marysville for some glass, though it is the general opinion that the snow will render the trail impassible for mules before we can get it.  In this case <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>One of our friends had nailed up an immense quantity of unhemmed cotton cloth--very coarse--in front of this opening, and as he evidently prided himself upon the elegant style in which he had arranged the drapery, it went to my heart to take it down and suspend in its place some pretty blue linen curtains which I had brought from the valley.  My toilet-table is formed of a trunk elevated upon two claret-cases, and by draping it with some more of the blue linen neatly fringed, it really will look quite handsome, and when I have placed upon it my rosewood workbox, a large cushion of crimson brocade, some Chinese ornaments of exquisitely carved ivory, and two or three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>The looking-glass is one of those which come in paper cases for doll's houses.  How different from the full-length psyches so almost indispensable to a dressing-room in the States!</P>
146.sgm:<P>The wash-stand is another trunk, covered with a towel, upon which you will see, for bowl, a large vegetable-dish, for ewer, a common-sized dining-pitcher.  Near this, upon a small cask, is placed a pail, which is daily filled with water from the river.  I brought with me from Marysville a handsome carpet, a hair mattress, pillows, a profusion of bed-linen, quilts, blankets, towels, etc., so that, in spite of the oddity of most of my furniture, I am, in reality, as thoroughly comfortable here as I could be in the most elegant palace.</P>
146.sgm:<P>We have four chairs, which were brought from the Empire.  I seriously proposed having three-legged stools.  With my usual desire for symmetry, I thought that they would be more in keeping; but as I was told that it would be a great deal of trouble to get them made, I was fain to put up with mere chairs.  So you see that even in the land of gold itself one cannot have everything that she desires.  An ingenious individual in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>At each end of the mantelpiece is arranged a candlestick, not, much to my regret, a block of wood with a hole in the center of it, but a real <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>There, my dainty Lady Molly, I have given you, I fear, a wearisomely minute description of my new home.  How would you like to winter in such an abode? in a place where there are no newspapers, no churches, lectures, concerts, or theaters; no fresh books; no shopping, calling, nor gossiping little tea-drinkings; no parties, no balls, no picnics, no tableaus, no charades, no latest fashions, no daily mail (we have an express once a month), no promenades, no rides or drives; no vegetables but potatoes and onions, no milk, no eggs, no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<HI REND="italics">nothing</HI>
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146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONNER, <HI REND="italics">September</HI>
146.sgm:<P>LIFE <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm: CHARACTERS <HI REND="italics">at</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>NED, the mulatto cook and the Paganini of the Humboldt Hotel--A naval character--His ecstasy upon hearing of the coming of the author to the Bar--Suggestion of a strait-jacket for him--"The only petticoated astonishment on this Bar"--First dinner at the log cabin--Ned's pretentious setting of the pine dining-table--The Bar ransacked for viands--The bill of fare--Ned and accomplished violinist--"Chock," his white accompanist--The author serenaded--An unappreciated "artistic" gift--A guide of the Fre&acute;mont expedition camps at Indian Bar--A linguist, and former chief of the Crow Indians--Cold-blooded recitals of Indian fights--Indians near the Bar expected to make a murderous attack upon the miners--The guide's council with them--Flowery reply of the Indians--A studious Quaker--His merciless frankness and regard for truth--"The Squire," and how he was elected justice of the peace--Miners prefer to rule themselves.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">October</HI>
146.sgm:<P>HAVING seen me, dear M., safely enthroned in my beautiful log palace with its outer walls all tapestried with moss, perhaps you would like a description of the coronation-dinner!</P>
146.sgm:<P>You must know that "Ned," the Paganini of the Humboldt, (who, by the way, is almost an historic, or, better perhaps, naval, character, inasmuch as he was <HI REND="italics">cook</HI>
146.sgm: on board of the Somers when her captain performed his little tragedy, to the horror of an entire nation,) had been in such a state of ecstasy ever since he had heard of the promised advent of Mrs. --, that his <HI REND="italics">proprietors</HI>
146.sgm:<P>"You see, sir," said Ned, "when the queen" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:(with Ned, as with the rest of the world, "a substitute shines brightly as a queen until a queen be by,"--and I am the only petticoated astonishment on this Bar) "arrives, <HI REND="italics">she</HI>
146.sgm:<P>When we entered our new home, we found the cloth--it was a piece left of that which lined the room overhead--already laid.  As it was unhemmed and somewhat tattered at the ends, an imaginative mind might fancy it fringed on purpose, though, like the poor little Marchioness with her orange-peel and water, one would have to <HI REND="italics">make believe</HI>
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146.sgm:<DIV><P><HI REND="italics">F</HI>
146.sgm: IRST <HI REND="italics">C</HI>
146.sgm:<P>OYSTER SOUP</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">S</HI>
146.sgm: ECOND <HI REND="italics">C</HI>
146.sgm:<P>FRIED SALMON CAUGHT FROM THE RIVER</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">T</HI>
146.sgm: HIRD <HI REND="italics">C</HI>
146.sgm:<P>ROAST BEEF &amp; BOILED HAM</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">F</HI>
146.sgm: OURTH <HI REND="italics">C</HI>
146.sgm:<P>FRIED OYSTERS</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">V</HI>
146.sgm:<P>POTATOES &amp; ONIONS</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">P</HI>
146.sgm:<P>MINCE PIE, &amp; PUDDING MADE WITHOUT EGGS OR MILK</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">D</HI>
146.sgm:<P>MADEIRA NUTS &amp; RAISINS</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">W</HI>
146.sgm:<P>CLARET &amp; CHAMPAGNE</P>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">C</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I found that Ned had not overrated his powers.  The dinner, when one considers the materials of which it was composed, was really excellent.  The soup was truly a great work of art; the fried oysters dreamily delicious; and as to the coffee, Ned must have got the receipt for making it from the very angel who gave the beverage to Mahomet to restore that individual's decayed moisture.</P>
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146.sgm:<P>Ned himself waited, dressed in a brand-new flannel shirt and calico ditto, his hair--he is a light mulatto--frizzled to the most intense degree of corkscrewity, and a benign and self-satisfied smile irradiating his face, such as <HI REND="italics">should</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I wish, my funny little Molly, that you could have been here clairvoyantly.  It was one of those scenes, just touched with that fine and almost imperceptible <HI REND="italics">perfume</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Ned really plays beautifully on the violin.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:is a white man, by the name of "Chock," who generally accompanies him.  Of course, true daughter of Eve that you are, you will wish to know "right off" what Chock's <HI REND="italics">other</HI>
146.sgm: name is.  Young woman, I am ashamed of you!  Who ever asks for the <HI REND="italics">other</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Ned and one of his musical cronies--a white man--gave me a serenade the other evening.  As it was quite cold, F. made them come inside the cabin.  It was the richest thing possible, to see the patronizing and yet serene manner with which Ned directed his companion what marches, preludes, etc., to play for the amusement of that profound culinary and musical critic, Dame Shirley.</P>
146.sgm:<P>It must be confessed that Ned's love of the beautiful is not quite so correct as his taste in cooking and violin-playing.  This morning a gentle knock at my door was followed by that polite person, bearing in triumph a small waiter, purloined from the Humboldt, on which stood in state, festooned with tumblers, a gaudy pitcher, which would have thrown Tearsoul and Lelie into ecstasies of delight.  It was almost as wonderful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:a specimen of art as my chintz hanging.  The groundwork is pure white, upon which, in basrelief, are <HI REND="italics">executed</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Ned could not have admired it more if it had been a jar of richest porcelain or a rare Etruscan vase, and when I gently suggested that it was a pity to rob the barroom of so elegant an ornament, he answered, "Miners can't appreciate a handsome pitcher, any more than they can good cooking, and Mrs. -- will please to keep it."</P>
146.sgm:<P>Alas! I would infinitely have preferred the humblest brown jug, for that really <HI REND="italics">has</HI>
146.sgm: a certain beauty of its own, and, besides, it would have been in keeping with my cabin.  However, that good creature looked upon the miraculous vegetable, the fabulous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>We breakfast at nine and dine at six, with a dish of soup at noon for luncheon.  Do not think we fare as sumptuously <HI REND="italics">every</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Ned is not the only distinguished person residing on this Bar.  There is a man camping here who was one of Colonel Fre&acute;mont's guides during his travels through California.  He is fifty years of age perhaps, and speaks several languages to perfection.  As he has been a wanderer for many years, and for a long time was the principal chief of the Crow Indians, his adventures are extremely interesting.  He chills the blood of the green young miners, who, unacquainted with the arts of war and subjugation, congregate around him by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>There is quite a band of this wild people herding a few miles below us, and soon after my arrival it was confidently affirmed and believed by many that they were about to make a murderous attack upon the miners.  This man, who can make himself understood in almost any language, and has a great deal of influence over all Indians, went to see them, and told them that such an attempt would result in their own certain destruction.  They said that they had never thought of such a thing; that the Americans were like the grass in the valleys, and the Indians fewer than the flowers of the Sierra Nevada.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Among other oddities, there is a person here who is a rabid admirer of Lippard.  I have heard him gravely affirm that Lippard was the greatest author the world ever saw, and that if one of his novels and the most fascinating work of ancient or modern times lay side by side, he would choose the former, even though he had already repeatedly perused it.  He <HI REND="italics">studies</HI>
146.sgm: Lippard just as other folks do Shakespeare, and yet the man has read and <HI REND="italics">admires</HI>
146.sgm: the majestic prose of Chilton, and is quite familiar with the best English classics!  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:is a Quaker, and his merciless and unmitigated regard for truth is comically grand, and nothing amuses me more than to draw out that peculiar characteristic.  For instance, after talking <HI REND="italics">at</HI>
146.sgm:<P>"Now, I know that <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
146.sgm:<P>It is the richest and broadest farce in this flattering and deceitful world to see him look right into my eyes while he answers smilingly, without the least evasion or reserve, the astounding <HI REND="italics">truth</HI>
146.sgm:<P>"I have not heard a word that you have been saying for the last half-hour; I have been thinking of something else!"</P>
146.sgm:<P>His dreamland reveries on these occasions are supposed to be a profound meditation upon the character and writings of his pet author.  I am always glad to have him visit us, as some one of us is sure to be most unflatteringly electrified by his uncompromising veracity.  I am, myself, generally the victim, as I make it a point to give him every opportunity for the display of this unusual peculiarity.  Not but that I have had disagreeable truth told me often enough, but heretofore people have done it out of spitefulness; but Mr. --, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>But <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm: great man--officially considered--of the entire river is the "Squire," as he is jestingly called.  It had been rumored for some time that we were about to become a law-and-order-loving community, and when I requested an explanation, I was informed that a man had gone all the way to Hamilton, the county seat, to get himself made into a justice of the peace.  Many shook their wise heads, and doubted, even if suited to the situation, which they say he is not, whether he would <HI REND="italics">take</HI>
146.sgm: here; and certain rebel spirits affirmed that he would be invited to <HI REND="italics">walk over the hill</HI>
146.sgm: before he had been in the community twenty-four hours, which is a polite way these free-and-easy young people have of turning out of town an obnoxious individual.  Not that the Squire is particularly objectionable <HI REND="italics">per se</HI>
146.sgm:, but in virtue of his office, and his supposed ineligibility to fill the same.  Besides, the people here wish to have the fun of ruling themselves.  Miners are as fond of playing at law making and dispensing as French novelists are of "playing at Providence."  They say, also, that he was not elected by the voice of the people, but that his personal friends nominated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>Last night I had the honor of an introduction to " <HI REND="italics">His</HI>
146.sgm: Honor."  Imagine a middle-sized man, quite stout, with a head disproportionately large, crowned with one of those immense foreheads eked out with a slight baldness (wonder if, according to the flattering popular superstition, he has <HI REND="italics">thought</HI>
146.sgm: his hair off) which enchant phrenologists, but which one <HI REND="italics">never</HI>
146.sgm: sees brooding above the soulful orbs of the great ones of the earth; a smooth, fat face, gray eyes, and prominent chin, the <HI REND="italics">tout ensemble</HI>
146.sgm:<P>You know, M., that it takes the same <HI REND="italics">kind</HI>
146.sgm: of power--differing, of course, in degree--to govern twenty men that it does to rule a million; and although the Squire is sufficiently intelligent, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:the kindest-hearted creature in the world, he evidently does <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
146.sgm:<P>However, I suppose that we must take the goods the gods provide, satisfied that if our King Log does no good, he is too sincerely desirous of fulfilling his duty to do any harm.  But I really feel sorry for this mere young Daniel come to judgment when I think of the gauntlet which the wicked wits will make him run when he tries his first cause.</P>
146.sgm:<P>However, the Squire may, after all, succeed.  As yet he has had no opportunity of making use of his credentials in putting down miners' law, which is, of course, the famous code of Judge Lynch.  In the mean time we all sincerely pray that he may be successful in his laudable undertaking, for justice in the hands of a mob, however respectable, is, at best, a fearful thing.</P>
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146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">October</HI>
146.sgm:<P>THEFT <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm: GOLD-DUST--TRIAL <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>THE "SQUIRE'S" first opportunity to exercise his judicial power--Holding court in a barroom--The jury "treated" by the Squire--Theft of gold-dust, and arrest of suspect--A miners' meeting--Fear that they would hang the prisoner--Regular trial decided upon, at the Empire, Rich Bar, where the gold-dust was stolen--A suggestion of thrift--Landlords to profit by trial, wherever held--Mock respect of the miners for the Squire--Elect a president at the trial--The Squire allowed to play at judge--Lay counsel for prosecution and defense--Ingenious defense of the accused--Verdict of guilty--Light sentence, on account of previous popularity and inoffensive conduct--Thirty-nine lashes, and to leave the river--Owner of gold-dust indemnified by transfer of thief's interest in a mine--A visit to Smith's Bar--Crossing the river on log bridges--Missouri Bar--Smith's a sunny camp, unlike Indian--Frenchman's Bar, another sunny spot--"Yank," the owner of a log-cabin store--Shrewdness and simplicity--Hopeless ambition to be "cute and smart"--The "Indiana girl" impossible to Yank--"A superior and splendid woman, but no polish"--Yank's "olla podrida of heterogeneous merchandise"--The author meets the banished gold-dust thief--Subscription by the miners on his banishment--A fool's errand to establish his innocence--An oyster-supper bet--The thief's statements totally incompatible with innocence.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">October</HI>
146.sgm:<P>WELL, my dear M., our grand Squire, whom I sketched for you in my last letter, has at length had an opportunity to exercise (or rather to <HI REND="italics">try</HI>
146.sgm:<P>But let me tell you about the trail which has just taken place.  On Sunday evening last, Ned Paganini, rushing wildly up to our cabin, and with eyes so enormously dilated that they absolutely looked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<HI REND="italics">all</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Of course I was inexpressibly shocked at Ned's news, for Little John, as he is always called (who, by the way, is about the last person, as every one remarked, that would have been suspected), seemed quite like an acquaintance, as he was waiter at the Empire when I boarded there.  I hurried F. off as quickly as possible to inquire into the truth of the report.  He soon returned with the following particulars.</P>
146.sgm:<P>It seems that Mr. B., who on Sunday morning wished to pay a bill, on taking his purse from between the two mattresses of the bed whereon he was accustomed to sleep, which stood in the common sitting-room of the family, found that four hundred dollars in gold-dust was missing.  He did not for one moment suspect Little John, in whom himself and wife had always placed the utmost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Of course the prisoner loudly protested his innocence, and as he was very drunk, the Squire adjourned all further proceedings until the next day, placing him under keepers for the night.</P>
146.sgm:<P>On the following morning I was awakened very early by a tremendous "Aye," so deep and mighty that it almost seemed to shake the cabin with its thrilling emphasis.  I sprang up and ran to the window, but could <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>"Oh! F., for God's sake, rise; the mob are going to hang Little John!"</P>
146.sgm:<P>And my fear was not so absurd as you might at first imagine, for men have often been executed in the mines for stealing a much smaller sum than four hundred dollars.</P>
146.sgm:<P>F. went to the Humboldt, and returned in a few minutes to tell me that I might stop weeping, for John was going to have a regular trial.  The crowd was merely a miners' meeting, called by Mr. B. for the purpose of having the trial held at the Empire for the convenience of his wife, who could not walk over to Indian Bar to give her evidence in the case.  However, as her deposition could easily have been taken, malicious people <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm: say that it was for the convenience of her husband's <HI REND="italics">pockets</HI>
146.sgm:, as it was well known that at whichever house the trial took place the owner thereof would make a handsome profit from the sale of dinners, drinks, etc., to the large number of people who would congregate to witness the proceedings.  Miners are proverbial for their reverence for the sex.  Of course everything ought to yield where a lady is concerned, and they all very properly agreed, <HI REND="italics">nem. con</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The Squire consented to hold the court at Rich <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:Bar, although many think that thereby he compromised his judicial dignity, as his office is on Indian Bar.  I must confess I see not how he could have done otherwise.  The miners were only too ready, so much do they object to a justice of the peace, to take the case <HI REND="italics">entirely</HI>
146.sgm: out of his hands if their wishes were not complied with, which, to confess the truth, they <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
146.sgm:, even after all his concessions, though they <HI REND="italics">pretended</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Everybody went to Rich Bar.  No one remained to protect the calico shanties, the rag huts, and the log cabins, from the much talked of Indian attack--but your humble servant and Paganini Ned.</P>
146.sgm:<P>When the people, the mighty people, had assembled at the Empire, they commenced proceedings by voting in a president and jury of their own, though they kindly consented (how <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
146.sgm: condescending!) that the Squire might <HI REND="italics">play at judge</HI>
146.sgm: by sitting at the side of <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
146.sgm: elected magistrate!  This honor the Squire seemed to take as a sort of salve to his wounded dignity, and with unprecedented meekness <HI REND="italics">accepted</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The evidence against the prisoner was, that he had no money previously, that he had slept at the Empire a night or two before, and that he knew where Mr. B. was in the habit of keeping his golddust, with a few other circumstances equally unimportant.  His only defense was, of course, to account for the money, which he tried to do by the following ingenious story.</P>
146.sgm:<P>He said that his father, who resides at Stockholm, --he is a Swede, --had sent him, two months previously, five hundred dollars through the express, which had been brought to him from San Francisco by a young man whose name is Miller; that he told no one of the circumstance, but buried the money (a common habit with the miner) on the summit of a hill about half a mile from Indian Bar; that, being intoxicated on Sunday morning, he had dug it up for the purpose of gambling with it; and that Mr. M., who had gone to Marysville a week before, and would return in a fortnight, could confirm his story.  When asked if he had received a letter with the money, he replied that he did, but, having placed it between the lining and the top of his cap, he had unfortunately lost it.  He earnestly affirmed his innocence, and, through his counsel, entreated the court, should he be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Yesterday morning I made my visit to Smith's Bar.  In order to reach it, it was necessary to cross the river, on a bridge formed of two logs, to Missouri Bar.  This flat, which has been worked but very little, has a path leading across it, a quarter of a mile in length.  It contains but two or three huts, no very extensive diggings having as yet been discovered upon it.  About in the middle of it, and close to the side of the trail, is situated a burial-spot, where not only its dead repose, but those who die on Indian Bar are also brought for interment.  On <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>This level (Smith's Bar) is large and quite thickly settled.  More gold has been taken from it than from any other settlement on the river.  Although the scenery here is not so strikingly picturesque as that surrounding my new home, it is perhaps infinitely more lovely, and certainly more desirable as a place of residence, than the latter, because the sun shines upon it all winter, and we can take long walks about it in many directions.  Now, Indian Bar is so completely covered with excavations and tenements that it is utterly impossible to promenade upon it at all.  Whenever I wish for exercise, I am <HI REND="italics">compelled</HI>
146.sgm: to cross the river, which, of course, I cannot do without company, and as the latter is not always procurable (F.'s profession calling him much from home), I am obliged to stay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>A short but steep ascent from Smith's Bar leads you to another bench, as miners call it, almost as large as itself, which is covered with trees and grass, and is a most lovely place.  From here one has a charming view of a tiny bar called Frenchman's.  It is a most sunny little spot, covered with the freshest greensward, and nestling lovingly, like a petted darling, in the embracing curve of a crescent-shaped hill opposite.  It looks more like some sheltered nook amid the blue mountains of New England than anything I have ever yet seen in California.  Formerly there was a deer-lick upon it, and I am told that on every dewy morning or starlit evening you might see a herd of pretty creatures gathering in antlered beauty about its margin.  Now, however, they are seldom met with, the advent of gold-hunting humanity having driven them far up into the hills.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The man who keeps the store at which we stopped (a log cabin without any floor) goes by the sobriquet of "Yank," and is quite a character in his way.  He used to be a peddler in the States, and is remarkable for an intense ambition to be thought what the Yankees call "cute and smart," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:-- an ambition which his true and good heart will never permit him to achieve.  He is a great friend of mine (I am always interested in that bizarre mixture of shrewdness and simplicity of which he is a distinguished specimen), and takes me largely into his confidence as to the various ways he has of <HI REND="italics">doing</HI>
146.sgm: green miners, --all the merest delusion on his part, you understand, for he is the most honest of God's creatures, and would not, I verily believe, cheat a man out of a grain of golden sand to save his own harmless and inoffensive life.  He is popularly supposed to be smitten with the charms of the "Indiana girl," but I confess I doubt it, for Yank himself informed me, confidentially, that, "though a very superior and splendid woman, she had no <HI REND="italics">polish</HI>
146.sgm:<P>He is an indefatigable "snapper-up of unconsidered trifles," and his store is the most comical olla podrida of heterogeneous merchandise that I ever saw.  There is nothing you can ask for but what he has, --from crowbars down to cambricneedles; from velveteen trousers up to broadcloth coats of the jauntiest description.  The <HI REND="italics">quality</HI>
146.sgm: of his goods, it must be confessed, is sometimes rather equivocal.  His collection of novels is by far the largest, the greasiest, and the "yellowest-kivered" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I wanted some sealing-wax to mend a broken chess-piece, having by some strange carelessness left the box containing mine in Marysville.  I inquired everywhere for it, but always got laughed at for supposing that any one would be so absurd as to bring such an article into the mountains.  As a forlorn hope, I applied to Yank.  Of course he had plenty!  The best of it is, that, whenever he produces any of these out-of-the-way things, he always says that he brought them from the States, which proves that he had a remarkable degree of foresight when he left his home three years ago.</P>
146.sgm:<P>While I sat chatting with Yank I heard some one singing loudly, and apparently very gayly, a negro melody, and, the next moment, who should enter but Little John, who had been whipped, according to sentence, three hours previously.  As soon as he saw me he burst into tears, and exclaimed, --</P>
146.sgm:<P>"Oh! Mrs. --, a heartless mob has beaten me cruelly, has taken all my money from me, and has decreed that I, who am an innocent man, should leave the mountains without a cent of money to assist me on my way!"</P>
146.sgm:<P>The latter part of his speech, as I afterwards <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:discovered, was <HI REND="italics">certainly</HI>
146.sgm:<P>But what <HI REND="italics">could</HI>
146.sgm:<P>"Well, John," I sagely remarked, "I hope that you did not take the money.  And only think how much happier you are in that case, than if you had been beaten and abused as you say you have, and at the same time were a criminal!"</P>
146.sgm:<P>I must confess, much as it tells against my eloquence, that John did not receive my well-meant attempt at consolation with that pious gratitude which such an injured innocent ought to have exhibited, but, F. luckily calling me at that moment, I was spared any more of his tearful complaints.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Soon after our return to the cabin, John's lawyer and the Squire called upon us.  They declared their perfect conviction of his innocence, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Then W. bet an oyster-supper for the whole party, which F. took up, that Miller, on his return, would confirm his client's statement.  For fear of accidents, we had the oysters that night, and very nice they were, I assure you.  This morning the hero <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:of the last three days vanished to parts unknown.  And thus endeth the Squire's first attempt to sit in judgment in a criminal case.  I regret his failure very much, as do many others.  Whether any one else could have succeeded better, I cannot say.  But I am sure that no person could more sincerely <HI REND="italics">desire</HI>
146.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">try</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I suppose that I should be as firm a believer in John's innocence as any one, had he not said to F. and others that if he had taken the money they could not <HI REND="italics">prove</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">November</HI>
146.sgm:<P>AMATEUR MINING--HAIRBREADTH 'SCAPES, &amp;c.</P>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>THREE dollars and twenty-five cents in gold-dust--Sorry she learned the trade--The resulting losses and suffering--Secret of the brilliant successes of former goldwasheresses--Salting the ground by miners in order to deceive their fair visitors--Erroneous ideas of richness of auriferous dirt resulting therefrom--Rarity of lucky strikes--Claim yielding ten dollars a day considered valuable--Consternation and near-disaster in the author's cabin--Trunk of forest giant rolls down hill--Force broken by rock near cabin--Terror of careless woodman--Another narrow escape at Smith's Bar--Pursuit and escape of woodman--Two sudden deaths at Indian Bar--Inquest in the open--Cosmopolitan gathering thereat--Wife of one of the deceased an advanced bloomer--Animadversions on strong-minded bloomers seeking their rights--California pheasant, gallina del campo of the Spaniards--Pines and dies in captivity--Smart, harmless earthquake--shocks.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<illus entity="a146-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PAN, CRADLE OR ROCKER, LONG-TOM, SLUICE-WASHING--DRIFTING, WINDLASS &amp; SHAFT</P>
146.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">November</HI>
146.sgm:<P>NOTHING of importance has happened since I last wrote you, except that I have become a <HI REND="italics">mineress</HI>
146.sgm:, that is if the having washed a pan of dirt with my own hands, and procured therefrom three dollars and twenty-five cents in golddust, which I shall inclose in this letter, will entitle me to the name.  I can truly say, with the blacksmith's apprentice at the close of his first day's work at the anvil, that I am sorry I learned the trade, for I wet my feet, tore my dress, spoilt a pair of new gloves, nearly froze my fingers, got an awful headache, took cold, and lost a valuable breastpin, in this my labor of love.  After such melancholy self-sacrifice on my part, I trust you will duly prize my gift.  I can assure you that it is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Apropos of lady gold-washers in general, it is a common habit with people residing in towns in the vicinity of the diggings to make up pleasure-parties to those places.  Each woman of the company will exhibit, on her return, at least twenty dollars of the oro, which she will gravely inform you she has just panned out from a single basinful of the soil.  This, of course, gives strangers a very erroneous idea of the average richness of auriferous dirt.  I myself thought (now, don't laugh) that one had but to saunter gracefully along romantic streamlets on sunny afternoons, with a parasol and white kid gloves perhaps, and to stop now and then to admire the scenery, and carelessly rinse out a small panful of yellow sand (without detriment to the white kids, however, so easy did I fancy the whole process to be), in order to fill one's workbag with the most beautiful and rare specimens of the precious mineral.  Since I have been here I have discovered my mistake, and also the secret of the brilliant success of former gold-washeresses.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The miners are in the habit of flattering the vanity of their fair visitors by scattering a handful of "salt" (which, strange to say, is <HI REND="italics">exactly</HI>
146.sgm: the color <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I had no idea of permitting such a costly joke to be played upon me; so I said but little of my desire to "go through the motions" of gold-washing, until one day, when, as I passed a deep hole in which several men were at work, my companion requested the owner to fill a small pan, which I had in my hand, with dirt from the bed-rock.  This request was, of course, granted, and the treasure having been conveyed to the edge of the river, I succeeded, after much awkward maneuvering on my own part, and considerable assistance from friend H., an experienced miner, in gathering together the above-specified sum.  All the diggers of our acquaintance say that it is an excellent "prospect," even to come from the bed-rock, where, naturally, the richest dirt is found.  To be sure, there are, now and then, "lucky strikes," such, for instance, as that mentioned in a former letter, where a person took out of a single basinful of soil two hundred and fifty-six dollars.  But such luck is as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:rare as the winning of a hundred-thousand-dollar prize in a lottery.  We are acquainted with many here whose gains have <HI REND="italics">never</HI>
146.sgm: amounted to much more than wages, that is, from six to eight dollars a day.  And a claim which yields a man a steady income of ten dollars <HI REND="italics">per diem</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I received an immense fright the other morning.  I was sitting by the fire, quietly reading "Lewis Arundel," which had just fallen into my hands, when a great shout and trampling of feet outside attracted my attention.  Naturally enough, my first impulse was to run to the door, but scarcely had I risen to my feet for that purpose, when a mighty crash against the side of the cabin, shaking it to the foundation, threw me suddenly upon my knees.  So violent was the shock that for a moment I thought the staunch old logs, mossed with the pale verdure of ages, were falling in confusion around me.  As soon as I could collect my scattered senses, I looked about to see what had happened.  Several stones had fallen from the back of the chimney, mortar from the latter covered the hearth, the cloth overhead was twisted into the funniest possible wrinkles, the couch had jumped two feet from the side of the house, the little table lay on its back, holding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:up <HI REND="italics">four</HI>
146.sgm: legs instead of <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
146.sgm:, the chessmen were rolling merrily about in every direction, the dishes had all left their usual places, the door, which, ever since, has obstinately refused to let itself be shut, was thrown violently open, while an odd-looking pile of articles lay in the middle of the room, which, upon investigation, was found to consist of a pail, a broom, a bell, some candlesticks, a pack of cards, a loaf of bread, a pair of boots, a bunch of cigars, and some clay pipes (the only things, by the way, rendered utterly <HI REND="italics">hors de combat</HI>
146.sgm:<P>"But what has happened?"  I eagerly inquired.</P>
146.sgm:<P>"O, a large tree, which was felled this morning, has rolled down from the brow of the hill."  And its having struck a rock a few feet from the house, losing thereby the most of its force, had alone saved us from utter destruction.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I grew sick with terror when I understood the awful fate from which Providence had preserved me, and even now my heart leaps painfully with mingled fear and gratitude when I think how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Every one who saw the forest giant descending the hill with the force of a mighty torrent expected to see the cabin instantly prostrated to the earth.  As it was, they all say that it swayed from the perpendicular more than six inches.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Poor W., whom you may remember my having mentioned in a former letter as having had a leg amputated a few weeks ago, and who was visiting us at the time, (he had been brought from the Empire in a rocking-chair,) looked like a marble statue of resignation.  He possesses a face of uncommon beauty, and his large, dark eyes have always, I fancy, a sorrowful expression.  Although he knew from the first shout what was about to happen, and was sitting on the couch which stood at that side of the cabin where the log must necessarily strike, and in his mutilated condition had, as he has since said, not the faintest hope of escape, yet the rich color for which he is remarkable paled not a shade during the whole affair.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The woodman who came so near causing a catastrophe was, I believe, infinitely more frightened than his might-have-been victims.  He is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>W. related the almost miraculous escape of two persons from a similar danger last winter.  The cabin, which was on Smith's Bar, was crushed into a mass of ruins almost in an instant, while an old man and his daughter, who were at dinner within its walls, remained sitting in the midst of the fallen logs, entirely unhurt.  The father immediately seized a gun and ran after the careless woodman, swearing that he would shoot him.  Fortunately for the latter (for there is no doubt that in the first moments of his rage the old man would have slain him), his younger legs enabled him to make his escape, and he did not dare to return to the settlement for some days.</P>
146.sgm:<P>It has heretofore been a source of great interest to me to listen to the ringing sound of the ax, and the solemn crash of those majestic sentinels of the hills as they bow their green foreheads to the dust, but now I fear that I shall always hear them with a feeling of apprehension mingling with my former <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Last week there was a post-mortem examination of two men who died very suddenly in the neighborhood.  Perhaps it will sound rather barbarous when I tell you that as there was no building upon the Bar which admitted light enough for the purpose, it was found necessary to conduct the examination in the open air, to the intense interest of the Kanakas, Indians, French, Spanish, English, Irish, and Yankees, who had gathered eagerly about the spot.  Paganini Ned, with an anxious desire that Mrs. -- should be <HI REND="italics">amused</HI>
146.sgm:<P>One of the deceased was the husband of an American lady lecturess of the most intense description, and a strong-minded bloomer on the broadest principles.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Apropos, how <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
146.sgm: women, many of whom, I am told, are <HI REND="italics">really</HI>
146.sgm: interesting and intelligent, --how <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:they spoil their pretty mouths and ruin their beautiful complexions by demanding with Xanthippian <HI REND="italics">fervor</HI>
146.sgm:, in the presence, often, of a vulgar, irreverent mob, what the gentle creatures are pleased to call their "rights"?  How <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
146.sgm: they wish to soil the delicate texture of their airy fancies by pondering over the wearying stupidities of Presidential elections, or the bewildering mystifications of rabid metaphysicians?  And, above all, how <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
146.sgm: they so far forget the sweet, shy coquetries of shrinking womanhood as to don those horrid bloomers?  As for me, although a <HI REND="italics">wife</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I knew a strong-minded bloomer at home, of some talent, and who was possessed, in a certain sense, of an excellent education.  One day, after having flatteringly informed me that I really <HI REND="italics">had</HI>
146.sgm: a "soul above buttons" and the nursery, she gravely proposed that I should improve my <HI REND="italics">mind</HI>
146.sgm: by poring six hours a day over the metaphysical subtleties of Kant, Cousin, etc., and I remember that she called me a "piece of fashionable insipidity," and taunted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:me with not daring to go out of the beaten track, because I <HI REND="italics">truly</HI>
146.sgm:<P>When will our sex appreciate the exquisite philosophy and truth of Lowell's remark upon the habits of Lady Redbreast and her esposo Robin, as illustrating the beautifully varied spheres of man and woman?-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>He sings to the wide world, she to her nest;<LB>In the nice ear of Nature, which song is the best?</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Speaking of birds reminds me of a misfortune that I have lately experienced, which, in a life where there is so little to amuse and interest one, has been to me a subject of real grief.  About three weeks ago, F. saw on the hill a California pheasant, which he chased into a coyote-hole and captured.  Knowing how fond I am of pets, he brought it home and proposed that I should try to tame it.  Now, from earliest childhood I have resolutely refused to keep <HI REND="italics">wild</HI>
146.sgm: birds, and when I have had them given to me (which has happened several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>It was a beautiful bird, a little larger than the domestic hen.  Its slender neck, which it curved with haughty elegance, was tinted with various shades of a shining steel color.  The large, bright eye glanced with the prettiest shyness at its captors, and the cluster of feathers forming its tail drooped with the rare grace of an ostrich-plume.  The colors of the body were of a subdued brilliancy, reminding one of a rich but somber mosaic.</P>
146.sgm:<P>As it seemed very quiet, I really believed that in time we should be able to tame it.  Still, it <HI REND="italics">would</HI>
146.sgm: remain constantly under the sofa or bedstead.  So F. concluded to place it in a cage for a few hours of each day, in order that it might become gradually accustomed to our presence.  This was done, the bird appearing as well as ever, and after closing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>You may laugh at me if you please, but I firmly believe that it died of homesickness.  What wonder that the free, beautiful, happy creature of God, torn from the sight of the broad blue sky, the smiling river, and the fresh, fragrant fir-trees of its mountain-home, and shut up in a dark, gloomy cabin, should have broken in twain its haughty little heart?  Yes, you may laugh, call me sentimental, etc., but I shall never forgive myself for having killed, by inches, in my selfish and cruel kindness, that pretty creature.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Many people here call this bird a grouse, and those who have crossed the plains say that it is very much like the prairie-hen.  The Spanish name is gallina del campo, literally, hen of the field.  Since the death of my poor little victim, I have been told that it is utterly impossible to tame one of these birds, and it is said that if you put their eggs under a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO></PAGEINFO>
146.sgm:<P>Among the noteworthy events which have occurred since my last, I don't know how I came to forget until the close of my letter two smart shocks of an earthquake to which we were treated a week ago.  They were awe-inspiring, but, after all, were nothing in comparison to the timber-quake, an account of which I have given you above.  But as F. is about to leave for the top of the Butte Mountains with a party of Rich Barians, and as I have much to do to prepare him for the journey, I must close.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">December</HI>
146.sgm:<P>ROBBERY, TRIAL, EXECUTION--MORE TRAGEDY</P>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>THEFT of gold-dust--Arrest of two suspected miners--Trial and acquittal at miners' meeting--Robbed persons still believe accused guilty--Suspects leave mountains--One returns, and plan for his detection is successful--Confronted with evidence of guilt, discloses, on promise of immunity from prosecution, hiding-place of gold-dust--Miners, however, try him, and on conviction he is sentenced to be hanged one hour thereafter--Miners' mode of trial--Respite of three hours--Bungling execution--Drunken miner's proposal for sign of guilt or innocence--Corpse "enwrapped in white shroud of feathery snowflakes"--Execution the work of the more reckless--Not generally approved--The Squire, disregarded, protested--Miners' procedure compared with the moderation of the first Vigilance Committee of San Francisco--Singular disappearance of body of miner--Returning to the States with his savings, his two companions report their leaving him in dying condition--Arrest and fruitless investigation--An unlikely bequest of money--Trial and acquittal of the miner's companions--Their story improbable, their actions like actual murder.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">December</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I LITTLE thought, dear M., that here, with the "green watching hills" as witnesses, amid a solitude so grand and lofty that it seems as if the faintest whisper of passion must be hushed by its holy stillness, I should have to relate the perpetration of one of those fearful deeds which, were it for no other peculiarity than its startling suddenness, so utterly at variance with all <HI REND="italics">civilized</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Whether the life which a few men, in the impertinent intoxication of power, have dared to crush out was worth that of a fly, I do not know, --perhaps not, --though God alone, methinks, can judge of the value of the soul upon which he has breathed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The facts in this sad case are as follows.  Last fall, two men were arrested by their partners on suspicion of having stolen from them eighteen hundred dollars in gold-dust.  The evidence was not sufficient to convict them, and they were acquitted.  They were tried before a meeting of the miners, as at that time the law did not even <HI REND="italics">pretend</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The prosecutors still believed them guilty, and fancied that the gold was hidden in a coyote-hole near the camp from which it had been taken.  They therefore watched the place narrowly while the suspected men remained on the Bar.  They made no discoveries, however, and soon after the trial the acquitted persons left the mountains for Marysville.</P>
146.sgm:<P>A few weeks ago, one of these men returned, and has spent most of the time since his arrival in loafing about the different barrooms upon the river.  He is said to have been constantly intoxicated.  As soon as the losers of the gold heard of his return, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>A few mornings ago he returned to his boarding-place, which he had left some hour earlier, with a spade in his hand, and, as he laid it down, carelessly observed that he had been out prospecting.  The losers of the gold went, immediately after breakfast, as they had been in the habit of doing, to see if all was right at the coyote-hole.  On this fatal day they saw that the entrance had been disturbed, and going in, they found upon the ground a money-belt which had apparently just been cut open.  Armed with this evidence of guilt, they confronted the suspected person and sternly accused him of having the gold in his possession.  Singularly enough, he did not attempt a denial, but said that if they would not bring him to a trial (which of course they promised) he would give it up immediately.  He then informed them that they would find it beneath the blankets of his bunk, as those queer shelves on which miners sleep, ranged one above <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>By this time the exciting news had spread all over the Bar.  A meeting of the miners was immediately convened, the unhappy man taken into custody, a jury chosen, and a judge, lawyer, etc., appointed.  Whether the men who had just regained a portion of their missing property made any objections to the proceedings which followed, I know not.  If they had done so, however, it would have made no difference, as the <HI REND="italics">people</HI>
146.sgm:<P>At one o'clock, so rapidly was the trial conducted, the judge charged the jury, and gently insinuated that they could do no less than to bring in with their verdict of guilty a sentence of <HI REND="italics">death</HI>
146.sgm:!  Perhaps you know that when a trial is conducted without the majesty of the law, the jury are compelled to decide not only upon the guilt of the prisoner, but the mode of his punishment also.  After a few minutes' absence, the twelve men, who had consented to burden their souls with a responsibility so fearful, returned, and the foreman handed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:the judge a paper, from which he read the will of the <HI REND="italics">people</HI>
146.sgm:, as follows: That William Brown, convicted of stealing, etc., should, in <HI REND="italics">one hour</HI>
146.sgm:<P>By the persuasions of some men more mildly disposed, they granted him a respite of <HI REND="italics">three hours</HI>
146.sgm: to prepare for his sudden entrance into eternity.  He employed the time in writing, in his native language (he is a Swede), to some friends in Stockholm.  God help them when that fatal post shall arrive, for, no doubt, <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
146.sgm:<P>He had exhibited, during the trial, the utmost recklessness and nonchalance, had drank many times in the course of the day, and when the rope was placed about his neck, was evidently much intoxicated.  All at once, however, he seemed startled into a consciousness of the awful reality of his position, and requested a few moments for prayer.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The execution was conducted by the jury, and was performed by throwing the cord, one end of which was attached to the neck of the prisoner, across the limb of a tree standing outside of the Rich Bar graveyard, when all who felt disposed to engage in so revolting a task lifted the poor wretch from the ground in the most awkward manner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:possible.  The whole affair, indeed, was a piece of cruel butchery, though <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
146.sgm: was not intentional, but arose from the ignorance of those who made the preparations.  In truth, life was only crushed out of him by hauling the writhing body up and down, several times in succession, by the rope, which was wound round a large bough of his green-leaved gallows.  Almost everybody was surprised at the severity of the sentence, and many, with their hands on the cord, did not believe even <HI REND="italics">then</HI>
146.sgm:<P>It is said that the crowd generally seemed to feel the solemnity of the occasion, but many of the drunkards, who form a large part of the community on these bars, laughed and shouted as if it were a spectacle got up for their particular amusement.  A disgusting specimen of intoxicated humanity, struck with one of those luminous ideas peculiar to his class, staggered up to the victim, who was praying at the moment, and, crowding a dirty rag into his almost unconscious hand, in a voice broken by a drunken hiccough, tearfully implored him to take his "hankercher," and if he were <HI REND="italics">innocent</HI>
146.sgm: (the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:man had not denied his guilt since first accused), to drop it as soon as he was drawn up into the air, but if <HI REND="italics">guilty</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The body of the criminal was allowed to hang for some hours after the execution.  It had commenced storming in the earlier part of the evening, and when those whose business it was to inter the remains arrived at the spot, they found them enwrapped in a soft white shroud of feathery snow-flakes, as if pitying nature had tried to hide from the offended face of Heaven the cruel deed which her mountain-children had committed.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I have heard no one approve of this affair.  It seems to have been carried on entirely by the more reckless part of the community.  There is no doubt, however, that they seriously <HI REND="italics">thought</HI>
146.sgm: they were doing right, for many of them are kind and sensible men.  They firmly believed that such an example was absolutely necessary for the protection of this community.  Probably the recent case of Little John rendered this last sentence more severe than it other-wise would have been.  The Squire, of course, could do nothing (as in criminal cases the <HI REND="italics">people</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>If William Brown had committed a murder, or had even attacked a man for his money; if he had been a quarrelsome, fighting character, endangering lives in his excitement, --it would have been a very different affair.  But, with the exception of the crime for which he perished (he <HI REND="italics">said</HI>
146.sgm:<P>You must not confound this miners' judgment with the doings of the noble Vigilance Committee of San Francisco.  They are almost totally different in their organization and manner of proceeding.  The Vigilance Committee had become absolutely necessary for the protection of society.  It was composed of the best and wisest men in the city.  They used their power with a moderation unexampled in history, and they laid it down with a calm and quiet readiness which was absolutely sublime, when they found that legal justice had again resumed that course of stern, unflinching duty which should always be its characteristic.  They took ample time for a thorough investigation of all the circumstances relating to the criminals who fell into their hands, and in <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
146.sgm: case have they hung a man who had not been proved beyond the shadow of a doubt to have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:committed at least <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
146.sgm:<P>But by this time, dear M., you must be tired of the melancholy subject, and yet if I keep my promise of relating to you all that interests <HI REND="italics">us</HI>
146.sgm:<P>At the commencement of our first storm, a hard-working, industrious laborer, who had accumulated about eight hundred dollars, concluded to return to the States.  As the snow had been falling but a few hours when he, with two acquaintances, started from Rich Bar, no one doubted that they would not reach Marysville in perfect safety.  They went on foot themselves, taking with them one mule to carry their blankets.  For some unexplained reason, they took an unfrequented route.  When the expressman came in, he said that he met the two companions of R. eight miles beyond Buck's Rancho, which is the first house one finds after leaving Rich Bar, and is only fourteen miles distant from here.</P>
146.sgm:<P>These men had camped at an uninhabited cabin called the "Frenchman's," where they had built a fire and were making themselves both merry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:and comfortable.  They informed the expressman that they had left their <HI REND="italics">friend</HI>
146.sgm: (?) three miles back, in a dying state; that the cold had been too much for him, and that no doubt he was already dead.  They had brought away the money, and even the <HI REND="italics">blankets</HI>
146.sgm:, of the expiring wretch!  They said that if they had stopped with him they would have been frozen themselves.  But even if their story is true, they must be the most brutal of creatures not to have made him as comfortable as possible, with <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
146.sgm:<P>On hearing the expressman's report, several men who had been acquainted with the deceased started out to try and discover his remains.  They found his violin, broken into several pieces, but all traces of the poor fellow himself had disappeared, probably forever.</P>
146.sgm:<P>In the mean while some travelers had carried the same news to Burke's Rancho, when several of the residents of that place followed the two men, and overtook them, to Bidwell's Bar, where they had them arrested on suspicion of murder.  They protested their innocence, of course, and one of them said that he would lead a party to the spot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>In this state of things, nothing was to be done but to return to B.'s, when, the excitement having somewhat subsided, they were allowed to proceed on their journey, the money, which they both swore R. had willed in his dying moments to a near relation of one of these very men, having been taken from them, in order to be sent by express to the friends of the deceased in the States.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Although they have been acquitted, many shake their heads doubtfully at the whole transaction.  It seems very improbable that a man, accustomed all his life to hard labor and exposure, even although slightly unwell, as it is said he was, at the time, should have sunk under the cold during a walk of less than twenty miles, amid a gentle fall of snow and rain, when, as it is well known, the air is comparatively mild.  It is to be hoped, however, that the companions of R. were brutal rather than criminal, though the desertion of a dying friend under such circumstances, even to the last unfeeling and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I hope, in my next, that I shall have something more cheerful than the above chapter of horrors to relate.  In the mean while, adios, and think as kindly as you can of the dear California, even though her lustrous skies gaze upon such barbarous deeds.</P>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">February</HI>
146.sgm:<P>A STORMY WINTER--HOLIDAY SATURNALIAS</P>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>SATURNALIA in camp--Temptations of riches--Tribute to the miners--Dreariness of camp-life during stormy winter weather--Christmas and change of proprietors at the Humboldt--Preparations for a double celebration--Mule-back loads of brandy-casks and champagne- baskets--Noisy procession of revelers--Oyster-and-champagne supper--Three days of revelry--Trial by mock vigilance committee--Judgment to "treat the crowd"--Revels resumed on larger scale at New Year's--Boat-loads of drunken miners fall into river--Saved by being drunk--Boat-loads of drunken miners fall into river--Seved by being drunk--Boat-load of bread falls into river and floats down-stream--Pulley-and-rope device for hauling boat across river--Fiddlers "nearly fiddled themselves into the grave"--Liquors "beginning to look scarce"--Subdued and sheepish-looking bacchanals--Nothing extenuated, nor aught set down in malice--Boating on the river--Aquatic plants--Bridge swept away in torrent--Loss of canoe--Branch from moss-grown fir-tree "a cornice wreathed with purple-starred tapestry"--A New Year's present from the river--A two-inch spotted trout--No fresh meat for a month--"Dark and ominous rumors"--Dark hams, rusty pork, etc., stored.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">January</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I WISH that it were possible, dear M., to give you an idea of the perfect saturnalia which has been held upon the river for the last three weeks, without at the same time causing you to think <HI REND="italics">too</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Imagine a company of enterprising and excitable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:young men, settled upon a sandy level about as large as a poor widow's potato-patch, walled in by sky-kissing hills, absolutely <HI REND="italics">compelled</HI>
146.sgm: to remain on account of the weather, which has vetoed indefinitely their exodus, with no place to ride or drive even if they had the necessary vehicles and quadrupeds; with no newspapers nor politics to interest them; deprived of all books but a few dog-eared novels of the poorest class, --churches, lectures, lyceums, theaters, and (most unkindest cut of all!) pretty girls, having become to these unhappy men mere myths; without <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
146.sgm: of the thousand ways of passing time peculiar to civilization, most of them living in damp, gloomy cabins, where heaven's dear light can enter only by the door; and when you add to all these disagreeables the fact that, during the never-to-be-forgotten month, the most remorseless, persevering rain which ever set itself to work to drive humanity mad has been pouring doggedly down, sweeping away bridges, lying in uncomfortable puddles about nearly all of the habitations, wickedly insinuating itself beneath un-umbrella-protected shirt-collars, generously treating to a shower-bath <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm: the rheumatism sleeping bipeds who did not happen to have an india-rubber blanket, and, to crown all, rendering mining utterly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The saturnalia commenced on Christmas evening, at the Humboldt, which, on that very day, had passed into the hands of new proprietors.  The most gorgeous preparations were made for celebrating the <HI REND="italics">two</HI>
146.sgm: events.  The bar was retrimmed with red calico, the bowling-alley had a new lining of the coarsest and whitest cotton cloth, and the broken lamp-shades were replaced by whole ones.  All day long, patient mules could be seen descending the hill, bending beneath casks of brandy and baskets of champagne, and, for the first time in the history of that celebrated building, the floor (wonderful to relate, it <HI REND="italics">has</HI>
146.sgm: a floor) was <HI REND="italics">washed</HI>
146.sgm:, at a lavish expenditure of some fifty pails of water, the using up of one entire broom, and the melting away of sundry bars of the best yellow soap, after which I am told that the enterprising and benevolent individuals who had undertaken the herculean task succeeded in washing the boards through the hopeless load of dirt which had accumulated upon them during the summer and autumn.  All these interesting particulars were communicated to me by Ned when he brought up dinner.  That distinguished individual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>About dark we were startled by the loudest hurrahs, which arose at the sight of an army of indiarubber coats (the rain was falling in riverfuls), each one enshrouding a Rich Barian, which was rapidly descending the hill.  This troop was headed by the "General," who, lucky man that he is, waved on high, instead of a banner, a <HI REND="italics">live</HI>
146.sgm: lantern, actually composed of tin and window-glass, and evidently intended by its maker to act in no capacity but that <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm: a lantern.  The General is the largest and tallest, and with one exception I think the oldest, man upon the river.  He is about fifty, I should fancy, and wears a snow-white beard of such immense dimensions, in both length and thickness, that any elderly Turk would expire with envy at the mere sight of it.  Don't imagine that <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
146.sgm: is a reveler.  By no means.  The gay crowd followed <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
146.sgm:<P>At nine o'clock in the evening they had an oyster-and-champagne supper in the Humboldt, which was very gay with toasts, songs, speeches, etc.  I believe that the company danced all night.  At any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Of course there were some who kept themselves aloof from these excesses, but they were few, and were not allowed to enjoy their sobriety in peace.  The revelers formed themselves into a mock vigilance committee, and when one of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:unfortunates appeared outside, a constable, followed by those who were able to keep their legs, brought him before the court, where he was tried on some amusing charge, and <HI REND="italics">invariably</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Towards the latter part of the week, people were compelled to be a little more quiet, from sheer exhaustion, but on New Year's Day, when there was a grand dinner at Rich Bar, the excitement broke out, if possible, worse than ever.  The same scenes, in a more or less aggravated form, in proportion as the strength of the actors held out, were repeated at Smith's Bar and The Junction.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Nearly every day I was dreadfully frightened by seeing a boat-load of intoxicated men fall into the river, where nothing but the fact of their <HI REND="italics">being</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Of the many acquaintances who had been in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:habit of calling nearly evening, three, only, appeared in the cabin during as many weeks. Now, however, the saturnalia is about over.  Ned and Chock have nearly fiddled themselves into their respective graves, the claret (a favorite wine with miners) and oysters are exhausted, brandied fruits are rarely seen, and even port-wine is beginning to look scarce.  Old callers occasionally drop in, looking dreadfully sheepish and subdued, and <HI REND="italics">so</HI>
146.sgm:<P>With the exception of my last, this is the most unpleasant letter which I have ever felt it my duty to write to you.  Perhaps you will wonder that I should touch upon such a disagreeable subject at all.  But I am bound, Molly, by my promise to give you a <HI REND="italics">true</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I have had rather a stupid time during the storm.  We have been in the habit of taking frequent rows upon the river, in a funny little toppling canoe carved out of a log.  The bridge at one end of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:boating-ground, and the rapids at the other, made quite a pretty lake.  To be sure, it was so small that we generally passed and repassed its beautiful surface at least thirty times in an hour.  But we did not mind <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
146.sgm:, I can assure you.  We were only <HI REND="italics">too</HI>
146.sgm:<P>But I am not entirely bereft of the beautiful.  From my last walk I brought home a tiny bit of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I have got the prettiest New Year's present.  You will never guess what it is, so I shall have to tell you.  On the eve of the year, as the "General" was lifting a glass of water, which had just been brought from the river, to his lips, he was startled at the sight of a tiny fish.  He immediately put it into a glass jar and gave it to me.  It is that most lovely of all the creatures of Thetis, a spotted trout, a little more than two inches in length.  Its back, of mingled green and gold, is splashed with dots of the richest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>In the list of my deprivations above written, I forgot to mention a fact which I know will gain me the sympathy of all carnivorously disposed people.  It is, that we have had no fresh meat for nearly a month!  Dark and ominous rumors are also floating through the moist air, to the effect that the potatoes and onions are about to give out!  But don't be alarmed, dear Molly.  There is no danger of a famine.  For have we not got wagon-loads of hard, dark hams, whose indurated hearts nothing but the sharpest knife and the stoutest arm can penetrate?  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:Have we not got quintals of dreadful mackerel, fearfully crystallized in black salt?  Have we not barrels upon barrels of rusty pork, and flour enough to victual a large army for the next two years?  Yea, verily, have we, and more also.  For we have oysters in cans, preserved meats, and sardines (apropos, I <HI REND="italics">detest</HI>
146.sgm:<P>So, hush the trembling of that tender little heart, and shut those tearful and alarmed eyes while I press a good-night kiss on their drooping lids.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<illus entity="a146-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INTERIOR OF MINERS' LOG CABIN--ONE PARTNER COOKING FOR NIGHT-FARING VISITORS</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">March</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SOCIABILITY <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm: EXCITEMENTS <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>DEPARTURE from Indian Bar of the mulatto Ned--His birthday-celebration dinner, at which the New Year's piscatory phenomenon figures in the bill of fare--A total disregard of dry laws at the dinner--Excitement over reported discovery of quartz-mines--A complete humbug--Charges of salting--Excitement renewed upon report of other new quartz-mines--Even if rich, lack of proper machinery would render working thereof impossible--Prediction that quartz-mines eventually will be the most profitable--Miners decamp without paying their debts--Pursuit and capture--Miners' court orders settlement in full--Celebration, by French miners, of the Revolution of 1848--Invitation to dine at best-built log cabin on the river--The habitation of five or six young miners--A perfect marvel of a fireplace--Huge unsplit logs as firewood--Window of glass jars--Possibilities in the use of empty glass containers--Unthrift of some miners--The cabin, its furniture, store of staple provisions, chinaware, cutlery--The dinner in the cabin--A cow kept--Wonderful variety of makeshift candlesticks in use among the miners--Dearth of butter, potatoes, onions, fresh meat, in camp--Indian-summer weather at Indian Bar--A cozy retreat in the hills--A present of feathered denizens of the mountains--Roasted for dinner.</P>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">February</HI>
146.sgm:<P>YOU will find this missive, dear M., a journal, rather than a letter; for the few insignificant events which have taken place since I last wrote to you will require but three lines apiece for their recital.  But stop; when I say "insignificant" I forget one all-important misfortune which, for our sins I suppose, has befallen us, in the sudden departure of our sable Paganini.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Yes; Vattal Ned to the valley hath gone,<LB>In a Marysville kitchen you'll find him;<LB>Two rusty pistols he girded on,<LB>And his violin hung behind him.</HI>
146.sgm:<P>His fiddle is heard no more on all the Bar, and silence reigns through the calico halls of the Humboldt.  His bland smile and his dainty plats, his inimitably choice language and his pet tambourine, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Just before he left he found a birthday which belonged to himself, and was observed all the morning thereof standing about in spots, a perfect picture of perplexity painted in burnt umber.  Inquiry being made by sympathizing friends as to the cause of his distress, he answered, that, having no fresh meat, he could not prepare a dinner for the log cabin, worthy of the occasion!</P>
146.sgm:<P>But no circumstance can put a man of genius entirely <HI REND="italics">hors de combat</HI>
146.sgm:.  Confine him in a dungeon, banish him to an uninhabited island, place him, solitary and alone, in a boundless desert, deprive him of all but life, and he will still achieve wonders.  With the iron hams, the piscatory phenomenon referred to in my last, and a can of really excellent oysters, Ned's birthday dinner was a <HI REND="italics">chef d' &oelig;uvre</HI>
146.sgm:.  He accompanied it with a present of a bottle of very good champagne, requesting us to drink it (which we <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
146.sgm:<P>There has been a great excitement here on account of the fancied discovery of valuable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Just now there is a new quartz-mine excitement.  A man has engaged to lead a company to the golden and crystallized spot.  Probably this also will prove, like the other, a mere yellow bubble.  But, even if as rich as he says, it will be of little value at present, on account of the want of suitable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>A few days ago we had another specimen of illegal, but in this case at least extremely equitable, justice.  Five men left the river without paying their debts.  A meeting of the miners was convened, and "Yank," who possesses an iron frame, the perseverance of a bulldog, and a constitution which never knew fatigue, was appointed, with another person, to go in search of the culprits and bring them back to Indian Bar.  He found them a few miles from this place, and returned with them in triumph, and alone, his friend having been compelled to remain behind on account of excessive fatigue.  The self-constituted court, after a fair trial, obliged the five men to settle all liabilities before they again left the river.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Last week the Frenchmen on the river celebrated the Revolution of February, 1848.  What kind of a time they had during the day, I know not, but in the evening (apropos, part of them reside <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:at Missouri Bar) they formed a torchlight procession and marched to Rich Bar, which, by the way, takes airs upon itself, and considers itself a <HI REND="italics">town</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Since the bridges have been swept away, I have been to Rich Bar but once.  It is necessary to go over the hill now, and the walk is a very wearisome one.  It is much more pleasant to live on the hills than on the Bar, and during our walk we passed two or three cozy little cabins, nestling in broad patches of sunlight, and surrounded with ample space for a promenade, which made me quite envious.  Unfortunately, F.'s profession renders it desirable that he should reside where the largest number of people congregate, and then the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I have been invited to dine at the best-built log cabin on the river.  It is situated on the hill of which I have just been writing, and is owned by five or six intelligent, hard-working, sturdy young men.  Of course it has no floor, but it boasts a perfect marvel of a fireplace.  They never pretend to split the wood for it, but merely fall a giant fir-tree, strip it of its branches, and cut it into pieces the length of the aforesaid wonder.  This cabin is lighted in a manner truly ingenious.  Three feet in length of a log on one side of the room is removed and glass jars inserted in its place, the space around the necks of said jars being filled in with clay.  This novel idea is really an excellent substitute for window-glass.  You will perhaps wonder where they procure enough of the material for such a purpose.  They are brought here in enormous quantities, containing brandied fruits, for there is no possible luxury connected with drinking, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:is procurable in California, that cannot be found in the mines, and the very men who fancy it a piece of wicked extravagance to <HI REND="italics">buy</HI>
146.sgm: bread, because they can save a few dimes by <HI REND="italics">making</HI>
146.sgm: it themselves, are often those who think nothing of spending from fifteen to twenty dollars a night in the barrooms.  There is at this moment a perfect Pelion-upon-Ossa-like pile of beautiful glass jars, porter, ale, champagne, and claret bottles, lying in front of my window.  The latter are a very convenient article for the manufacture of the most enchantingly primitive lanterns.  Any one in want of a utensil of this kind has but to step to his cabin-door, take up a claret or champagne bottle, knock off the bottom, and dropping into the neck thereof, through the opening thus made, a candle, to have a most excellent lantern.  And the beauty of it is, that, every time you wish to use such a thing, you can have a <HI REND="italics">new</HI>
146.sgm:<P>But to return to my description of the cabin.  It consists of one very large room, in the back part of which are neatly stored several hundred sacks of flour, a large quantity of potatoes, sundry kegs of butter, and plenty of hams and mackerel.  The furniture consists of substantial wooden stools, and in these I observed that our friends followed the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I have said nothing about candlesticks as yet.  I must confess that in <HI REND="italics">them</HI>
146.sgm: the spice of life is carried almost too far.  One gets satiated with their wonderful variety.  I will mention but two or three of these makeshifts.  Bottles, <HI REND="italics">without</HI>
146.sgm: the bottoms knocked off, are general favorites.  Many, however, exhibit an insane admiration for match-boxes, which, considering that they <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm: keep falling <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
146.sgm: the time, and leaving the entire house in darkness, and scattering spermaceti in every direction, is rather an inconvenient taste.  Some fancy blocks of wood with an ornamental balustrade of three nails, and I <HI REND="italics">have</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The sad forebodings mentioned in a former letter have come to pass.  For some weeks, with the exception of two or three families, every one upon the river has been out of butter, onions, and potatoes.  Our kind friends upon the hill, who have a little remaining, sent me a few pounds of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The weather here for the past five weeks has been like the Indian summer at home.  Nearly every day I take a walk up onto the hill back of our cabin.  Nobody lives there, it is so very steep.  I have a cozy little seat in the fragrant bosom of some evergreen shrubs, where often I remain for hours.  It is almost like death to mount to my favorite spot, the path is so steep and stony; but it is new life, when I arrive there, to sit in the shadow of the pines and listen to the plaintive wail of the wind as it surges through their musical leaves, and to gaze down upon the tented Bar lying in somber gloom (for as yet the sun does not shine upon it) and the foam-flaked river, and around at the awful mountain splashed here and there with broad patches of snow, or reverently upward into the stainless blue of our unmatchable sky.</P>
146.sgm:<P>This letter is much longer than I thought it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Good by, my dear M., and remember that the <HI REND="italics">same</HI>
146.sgm: sky, though not quite so beautiful a portion of it, which smiles upon <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
146.sgm: in sunny Calfornia bends lovingly over <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">April</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SPRINGTIDE--LINGUISTICS--STORMS--ACCIDENTS</P>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>THE splendor of a March morning in the mountains of California--First bird of the season--Blue and red shirted miners a feature of the landscape--"Wanderers from the whole broad earth"--The languages of many nations heard--How the Americans attempt to converse with the Spanish-speaking population--"Sabe," "vamos," "poco tiempo," "si," and "bueno," a complete lexicon of la lengua castellana, in mind of Americans--An "ugly disposition" manifested when the speaker is not understood--Spaniards "ain't kinder like eour folks," nor "folksy"--Mistakes not all on one side--Spanish proverb regarding certain languages--Not complimentary to English--Stormy weather--Storm king a perfect Proteus--River on a rampage--Sawmill carried away--Pastimes of the miners during the storm--MS. account of storm sent in keg via river to Marysville newspaper--Silversmith makes gold rings during storm--Raffling and reraffling of same as pastime--Some natural gold rings--Nugget in shape of eagle's head presented to author--Miners buried up to neck in cave-in-Escape with but slight injury--Miner stabbed without provocation in drunken frolic--Life despaired of at first--No notice taken of affair.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">March</HI>
146.sgm:<P>THIS fifteenth day of March has risen upon us with all the primeval splendor of the birth-morn of creation.  The lovely river, having resumed its crimson border (the so long idle miners being again busily at work), glides by, laughing gayly, leaping and clapping its glad waves joyfully in the golden sunlight.  The feathery fringe of the fir-trees glitters like emerald in the luster-bathing air.  A hundred tiny rivulets flash down from the brow of the mountains, as if some mighty Titan, standing on the other side, had flung athwart their greenness a chaplet of radiant pearls.  Of the large quantities of snow which have fallen within the past fortnight, a few patches of shining whiteness, high up among the hills, alone remain, while, to finish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:the picture, the lustrous heaven of California, looking farther off than ever through the wonderfully transparent atmosphere, and for that very reason infinitely more beautiful, bends over all the matchless blue of its resplendent arch.  Ah, the heaven of the Golden Land!  To you, living beneath the murky skies of New England, how unimaginably lovely it is.  A small poetess has said that <HI REND="italics">she</HI>
146.sgm: could not love a scene where the blue sky was <HI REND="italics">always</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Between each stroke of the pen I stop to glance at that splendor, whose sameness never fails, but now a flock of ring-doves break for a moment with dots of purple its monotonous beauty, and the carol of a tiny bird (the first of the season), though I cannot see the darling, fills the joyful air with its matin song.</P>
146.sgm:<P>All along the side of the hill behind the Bar, and on the latter also, glance spots of azure and crimson, in the forms of blue and red shirted miners bending steadily over pickax and shovel, reminding one involuntarily of the muck-gatherer in The Pilgrim's Progress.  But no; that is an unjust <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:association of ideas, for many of these men are toiling thus wearily for laughing-lipped children, calm-browed wives, or saintly mothers, gathering around the household hearth in some far-away country.  Even among the few now remaining on the river there are wanderers from the whole broad earth, and, oh, what a world of poetic recollection is suggested by their living presence!  From happiest homes and such luxuriant lands has the golden magnet drawn its victims.  From those palm-girdled isles of the Pacific, which Melville's gifted pen has consecrated to such beautiful romance; from Indies, blazing through the dim past with funeral pyres, upon whose perfumed flame ascended to God the chaste souls of her devoted wives; from the grand old woods of classic Greece, haunted by nymph and satyr, Naiad and Grace, grape-crowned Bacchus and beauty-zoned Venus; from the polished heart of artificial Europe; from the breezy backwoods of young America; from the tropical languor of Asian savannah; from <HI REND="italics">every</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>You will hear in the same day, almost at the same time, the lofty melody of the Spanish language, the piquant polish of the French (which, though not a <HI REND="italics">musical</HI>
146.sgm: tongue, is the most <HI REND="italics">useful</HI>
146.sgm: of them all), the silver, changing clearness of the Italian, the harsh gangle of the German, the hissing precision of the English, the liquid sweetness of the Kanaka, and the sleep-inspiring languor of the East Indian.  To complete the catalogue, there is the <HI REND="italics">native</HI>
146.sgm:<P>By the way, speaking of languages, nothing is more amusing than to observe the different styles in which the generality of Americans talk <HI REND="italics">at</HI>
146.sgm: the unfortunate Spaniard.  In the first place, many of them really believe that when they have learned <HI REND="italics">sabe</HI>
146.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">vamos</HI>
146.sgm: (two words which they seldom use in the right place), <HI REND="italics">poco tiempo, si</HI>
146.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">bueno</HI>
146.sgm: (the last they <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm: persist in pronouncing <HI REND="italics">whayno</HI>
146.sgm: ), they have the whole of the glorious Castilian at their tongue's end.  Some, however, eschew the above words entirely, and innocently fancy that by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:spliting the tympanum of an unhappy foreigner in screaming forth their sentences in good solid English they can be surely understood; others, at the imminent risk of dislocating their own limbs, and the jaws of their listeners by the laughs which their efforts elicit, make the most excruciatingly grotesque gestures, and think that <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
146.sgm: is speaking Spanish.  The majority, however, place a most beautiful and touching faith in <HI REND="italics">broken English</HI>
146.sgm:<P>One of those dear, stupid Yankees who <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm: now and then venture out of sight of the smoke of their own chimneys as far as California, was relating <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
146.sgm: experience in this particular the other day.  It seems he had lost a horse somewhere among the hills, and during his search for it met a gentlemanly Chilen&tilde;o, who with national suavity made the most desperate efforts to understand the questions put to him.  Of course Chilen&tilde;o was so stupid that he did not succeed, for it is not possible one of the Great American People could fail to express himself clearly even in Hebrew if he takes it into his cute head to speak that ancient but highly respectable language.  Our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:Yankee friend, however, would not allow the poor fellow even the excuse of stupidity, but declared that he only "played possum from sheer <HI REND="italics">ugliness</HI>
146.sgm:."  "Why," he added, in relating the circumstance, "the cross old rascal pretended not to understand his own language, though I said as plainly as possible, `Sen&tilde;or, sabe mi horso vamos poco tiempo?' which, perhaps you don't know," he proceeded to say, in a benevolent desire to enlighten our ignorance and teach us a little Castilian, "means, `Sir, I have lost my horse; have you seen it?'"  I am ashamed to acknowledge that we did <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
146.sgm: know the above written Anglo-Spanish meant <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
146.sgm:!  The honest fellow concluded his story by declaring (and it is a common remark with uneducated Americans) with a most self-glorifying air of <HI REND="italics">pity</HI>
146.sgm: for the poor Spaniards, "They ain't kinder like <HI REND="italics">eour</HI>
146.sgm: folks," or, as that universal Aunt Somebody used so expressively to observe, "Somehow, they ain't <HI REND="italics">folksy</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The mistakes made on the other side are often quite as amusing.  Dr. Can&tilde;as related to us a laughable anecdote of a countryman of his, with whom he happened to camp on his first arrival in San Francisco.  None of the party could speak a word of English, and the person referred to, as ignorant as the rest, went out to purchase bread, which he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:procured by laying down some money and pointing to a loaf of that necessary edible.  He probably heard a person use the words "some bread," for he rushed home, Can&tilde;as said, in a perfect burst of newly acquired wisdom, and informed his friends that he had found out the English for "pan," and that when they wished any of that article they need but enter a bakeshop and utter the word "sombrero" in order to obtain it!  His hearers were delighted to know <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
146.sgm: much of the <HI REND="italics">infernal lengua</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I commenced this letter with the intention of telling you about the weary, weary storm, which has not only thrown a damp over our spirits, but has saturated them, as it has everything else, with a deluge of moisture.  The storm king commenced his reign (or rain) on the 28th of February, and proved himself a perfect Proteus during his residence with us.  For one entire week he descended daily and nightly, without an hour's cessation, in a forty Niagara-power of water, and just as we were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The river, usually so bland and smiling, looked really terrific.  It rose to an unexampled height, and tore along its way, a perfect mass of dark-foamed turbid waves.  At one time we had serious fears that the water would cover the whole Bar, for it approached within two or three feet of the Humboldt.  A sawmill, which had been built at a great expense by two gentlemen of Rich Bar in order to be ready for the sawing of lumber for the extensive fluming operations which are in contemplation this season, was entirely swept away, nearly ruining, it is said, the owners.  I heard a great shout <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>It is certainly most amusing to hear of the different plans which the poor miners invented to pass the time during the trying season of rains.  Of course, poker and euchre, whist and ninepins, to say nothing of monte and faro, are now in constant requisition.  But as a person would starve to death on <HI REND="italics">toujours des perdrix</HI>
146.sgm:, so a man cannot <HI REND="italics">always</HI>
146.sgm: be playing cards.  Some <HI REND="italics">literary</HI>
146.sgm: bipeds, I have been told, reduced to the last degree of intellectual destitution, in a beautiful spirit of self-martyrdom betook themselves to blue blankets, bunks, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I have one of these rings, which is really very beautifully finished, and although perhaps at home it would look vulgar, there is a sort of massive and barbaric grandeur about it which seems well suited to our wild life of the hills.  I shall send you one of these, which will be to you a curiosity, and will doubtless look strangely enough amid the graceful and airy politeness of French jewelry.  But I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Last evening Mr. C. showed us a specimen ring which he had just finished.  It is the handsomest <HI REND="italics">natural</HI>
146.sgm: specimen that I ever saw.  Pure gold is generally dull in hue, but this is of a most beautiful shade of yellow, and extremely brilliant.  It is, in shape and size, exactly like the flower of the jonquil.  In the center is inserted, with all the nice finish of art (or rather of nature, for it is her work), a polished piece of quartz, of the purest shade of pink, and between each radiant petal is set a tiny crystal of colorless quartz, every one of which flashes like a real diamond.  It is known beyond doubt to be a real live specimen, as many saw it when it was first taken from the earth, and the owner has carried it carelessly in his pocket for months.  We would gladly have given fifty dollars for it, though its nominal value is only about an ounce, but it is already promised as a present to a gentleman in Marysville.  Although rather a clumsy ring, it would make a most unique brooch, and indeed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:is almost the <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The other day a hole caved in, burying up to the neck two unfortunates who were in it at the time.  Luckily, they were but slightly injured.  F. is at present attending a man at The Junction, who was stabbed very severely in the back during a drunken frolic.  The people have not taken the slightest notice of this affair, although for some days the life of the wounded man was despaired of.  The perpetrator of the deed had not the slightest provocation from his unfortunate victim.</P>
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146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
146.sgm:<P>MINING METHODS - MINERS, GAMBLERS, ETC.</P>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>DIFFICULTY experienced in writing amid the charms of California mountain scenery--Science the blindest guide on a gold-hunting expedition--Irreverent contempt of the beautiful mineral to the dictates of science--Nothing better to be expected from the root of all evil--Foreigners more successful than Americans in its pursuit--Americans always longing for big strikes--Success lies in staying and persevering--How a camp springs into existence--Prospecting, panning out, and discovery that it pays--The claim--Building the shanty--Spreading of news of new diggings--Arrival of the monte-dealers--Industrious begin digging for gold--The claiming system--How claims worked--Working difficult amidst huge mountain rocks--Partnerships then compulsory--Naming the mine or company--The long-tom--Panning out the gold--Sinking shaft to reach bed-rock--Drifting coyote-holes in search of crevices--Water-ditches and water companies--Washing out in long-tom--Waste-ditches--Tailings--Fluming companies--Rockers--Gold-mining is nature's great lottery scheme--Thousands taken out in a few hours--Six ounces in six months--"Almost all seem to have lost"--Jumped claims--Caving in of excavations--Abandonment of expensive paying shafts--Miner making "big strike" almost sure prey of professional gamblers--As spring opens, gamblers flock in like birds of prey--After stay of only four days, gambler leaves Bar with over a thousand dollars of miners' gold--As many foreigners as Americans on the river--Foreigners generally extremely ignorant and degraded--Some Spaniards of the highest education and accomplishment--Majority of Americans mechanics of better class--Sailors and farmers next in number--A few merchants and steamboat-clerks--A few physicians--One lawyer--Ranchero of distinguished appearance an accomplished monte-dealer and horse-jockey--Said to have been a preacher in the States--Such not uncommon for California.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">April</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I HAVE been haunted all day, my dear M., with an intense ambition to write you a letter which shall be dreadfully commonplace and severely utilitarian in its style and contents.  Not but that my epistles are <HI REND="italics">always</HI>
146.sgm: commonplace enough (spirits of Montague and Se&acute;vigne&acute;, forgive me!), but hitherto I have not really <HI REND="italics">tried</HI>
146.sgm: to make them so.  Now, however, I <HI REND="italics">intend</HI>
146.sgm:<P>You would certainly wonder, were you seated where I now am, how any one with a quarter of a soul <HI REND="italics">could</HI>
146.sgm: manufacture herself into a bore amid such surroundings as these.  The air is as balmy as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:that of a midsummer's day in the sunniest valleys of New England.  It is four o'clock in the evening, and I am sitting on a cigar-box outside of our cabin.  From this spot not a person is to be seen, except a man who is building a new wing to the Humboldt.  Not a human sound, but a slight noise made by the aforesaid individual in tacking on a roof of blue drilling to the room which he is finishing, disturbs the stillness which fills this purest air.  I confess that it is difficult to fix my eyes upon the dull paper, and my fingers upon the duller pen with which I am soiling it.  Almost every other minute I find myself stopping to listen to the ceaseless river-psalm, or to gaze up into the wondrous depths of the California heaven; to watch the graceful movements of the pretty brown lizards jerking up their impudent little heads above a moss-wrought log which lies before me, or to mark the dancing water-shadow on the canvas door of the bakeshop opposite; to follow with childish eyes the flight of a golden butterfly, curious to know if it will crown with a capital of winged beauty that column of nature's carving, the pine stump rising at my feet, or whether it will flutter down (for it is dallying coquettishly around them both) upon that slate-rock beyond, shining so darkly lustrous through a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>But, as I said before, I have an ambition that way, and I <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm: succeed.  You are such a good-natured little thing, dear, that I know you will meekly allow yourself to be victimized into reading the profound and prosy remarks which I shall make in my efforts to initiate you into the mining polity of this place.  Now, you may rest assured that I shall assert nothing upon the subject which is not perfectly correct; for have I not earned a character for inquisitiveness (and you know that does <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
146.sgm: happen to be one of my failings) which I fear will cling to me through life, by my persevering questions to all the unhappy miners from whom I thought I could gain any information?  Did I not martyrize myself into a human mule by descending to the bottom of a dreadful pit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:(suffering mortal terror all the time, lest it should cave in upon me), actuated by a virtuous desire to see with my own two eyes the process of underground mining, thus enabling myself to be stupidly correct in all my statements thereupon?  Did I not ruin a pair of silk-velvet slippers, lame my ankles for a week, and draw a "browner horror" over my already sunburnt face, in a wearisome walk, miles away, to the head of the ditch, as they call the prettiest little rivulet (though the work of men) that I ever saw?  Yea, verily, this have I done for the express edification of yourself and the rest of your curious tribe, to be rewarded, probably, by the impertinent remark, "What!  <HI REND="italics">does</HI>
146.sgm: that little goose Dame Shirley think that <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
146.sgm:<P>In the first place, then, as to the discovery of gold.  In California, at least, it must be confessed that, in this particular, science appears to be completely at fault, or as an intelligent and well-educated miner remarked to us the other day, "I maintain that science is the blindest guide that one could have on a gold-finding expedition.  Those men who judge by the appearance of the soil, and depend upon geological calculations, are invariably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:disappointed, while the ignorant adventurer, who digs just for the sake of digging, is almost sure to be successful."  I suppose that the above observation is quite correct, as all whom we have questioned upon the subject repeat, in substance, the same thing.  Wherever geology has said that gold <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
146.sgm: be, there, perversely enough, it lies not; and wherever her ladyship has declared that it could <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Our countrymen are the most discontented of mortals.  They are always longing for big strikes.  If a claim is paying them a steady income, by which, if they pleased, they could lay up more in a month than they could in a year at home, still they are dissatisfied, and in most cases will wander off in search of better diggings.  There are hundreds now pursuing this foolish course, who, if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:they had stopped where they first camped, would now have been rich men.  Sometimes a company of these wanderers will find itself upon a bar where a few pieces of the precious metal lie scattered upon the surface of the ground.  Of course they immediately prospect it, which is accomplished by panning out a few basinfuls of the soil.  If it pays, they claim the spot and build their shanties.  The news spreads that wonderful diggings have been discovered at such a place.  The monte-dealers--those worse than fiends--rush, vulture-like, upon the scene and erect a round tent, where, in gambling, drinking, swearing, and fighting, the <HI REND="italics">many</HI>
146.sgm: reproduce pandemonium in more than its original horror, while a <HI REND="italics">few</HI>
146.sgm:<P>But, first, let me explain to you the claiming system.  As there are no state laws upon the subject, each mining community is permitted to make its own.  Here they have decided that no man may claim an area of more than forty feet square.  This he stakes off, and puts a notice upon it, to the effect that he holds it for mining purposes.  If he does not choose to work it immediately, he is obliged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:to renew the notice every ten days, for, without this precaution, any other person has a right to "jump" it, that is, to take it from him.  There are many ways of evading the above law.  For instance, an individual can hold as many claims as he pleases if he keeps a man at work in each, for this workman represents the original owner.  I am told, however, that the laborer himself can jump the claim of the very man who employs him, if he pleases so to do.  This is seldom, if ever, done.  The person who is willing to be hired generally prefers to receive the six dollars per diem, of which he is <HI REND="italics">sure</HI>
146.sgm: in any case, to running the risk of a claim not proving valuable.  After all, the holding of claims by proxy is considered rather as a carrying out of the spirit of the law than as an evasion of it.  But there are many ways of <HI REND="italics">really</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Having got our gold-mines discovered and claimed, I will try to give you a faint idea of how they work them.  Here, in the mountains, the labor of excavation is extremely difficult, on account of the immense rocks which form a large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:portion of the soil.  Of course no man can work out a claim alone.  For that reason, and also for the same that makes partnerships desirable, they congregate in companies of four or six, generally designating themselves by the name of the place from whence the majority of the members have emigrated; as, for example, the Illinois, Bunker Hill, Bay State, etc., companies.  In many places the surface soil, or in mining phrase, the top dirt, pays when worked in a long-tom.  This machine (I have never been able to discover the derivation of its name) is a trough, generally about twenty feet in length and eight inches in depth, formed of wood, with the exception of six feet at one end, called the "riddle" (query, why "riddle"?), which is made of sheet-iron perforated with holes about the size of a large marble.  Underneath this colander-like portion of the long-tom is placed another trough, about ten feet long, the sides six inches, perhaps, in height, which, divided through the middle by a slender slat, is called the riffle-box.  It takes several persons to manage properly a long-tom.  Three or four men station themselves with spades at the head of the machine, while at the foot of it stands an individual armed "wid de shovel an' de hoe."  The spadesmen throw in large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:quantities of the precious dirt, which is washed down to the riddle by a stream of water leading into the long-tom through wooden gutters or sluices.  When the soil reaches the riddle, it is kept constantly in motion by the man with the hoe.  Of course, by this means, all the dirt and gold escapes through the perforations into the riffle-box below, one compartment of which is placed just beyond the riddle.  Most of the dirt washes over the sides of the riffle-box, but the gold, being so astonishingly heavy, remains safely at the bottom of it.  When the machine gets too full of stones to be worked easily, the man whose business it is to attend to them throws them out with his shovel, looking carefully among them as he does so for any pieces of gold which may have been too large to pass through the holes of the riddle.  I am sorry to say that he generally loses his labor.  At night they pan out the gold which has been collected in the riffle-box during the day.  Many of the miners decline washing the top dirt at all, but try to reach as quickly as possible the bed-rock, where are found the richest deposits of gold.  The river is supposed to have formerly flowed over this bed-rock, in the crevices of which it left, as it passed away, the largest portions of the so eagerly sought for ore.  The group of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:mountains amidst which we are living is a spur of the Sierra Nevada, and the bed-rock, which in this vicinity is of slate, is said to run through the entire range, lying, in distance varying from a few feet to eighty or ninety, beneath the surface of the soil.  On Indian Bar the bed-rock falls in almost perpendicular benches, while at Rich Bar the friction of the river has formed it into large, deep basins, in which the gold, instead of being found, as you would naturally suppose, in the bottom of it, lies, for the most part, just below the rim.  A good-natured individual bored <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
146.sgm:, and tired <HI REND="italics">himself</HI>
146.sgm:, in a hopeless attempt to make me comprehend that this was only a necessary consequence of the undercurrent of the water, but with my usual stupidity upon such matters I got but a vague idea from his scientific explanation, and certainly shall not mystify <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
146.sgm:<P>When a company wish to reach the bed-rock as quickly as possible, they sink a shaft (which is nothing more nor less than digging a well) until they "strike it."  They then commence drifting coyote-holes, as they call them, in search of crevices, which, as I told you before, often pay immensely.  These coyote-holes sometimes extend hundreds of feet into the side of the hill.  Of course <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Now I must tell you how those having claims on the hills procure the water for washing them.  The expense of raising it in any way from the river is too enormous to be thought of for a moment.  In most cases it is brought from ravines in the mountains.  A company, to which a friend of ours belongs, has dug a ditch about a foot in width and depth, and more than three miles in length, which is fed in this way.  I wish that you could see this ditch.  I never beheld a <HI REND="italics">natural</HI>
146.sgm: streamlet more exquisitely beautiful.  It undulates over the mossy roots and the gray old rocks like a capricious snake, singing all the time a low song with the "liquidest murmur," and one might almost fancy it the airy and coquettish Undine herself.  When it reaches the top of the hill, the sparkling thing is divided <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I think that I gave you a vague idea of fluming in a former letter.  I will not, therefore, repeat it here, but will merely mention that the numerous fluming companies have already commenced their extensive operations upon the river.</P>
146.sgm:<P>As to the rockers, so often mentioned in story and in song, I have not spoken of them since I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Gold-mining is nature's great lottery scheme.  A man may work in a claim for many months, and be poorer at the end of the time than when he commenced, or he may take out thousands in a few hours.  It is a mere matter of chance.  A friend of ours, a young Spanish surgeon from Guatemala, a person of intelligence and education, told us that after working a claim for six months he had taken out but six ounces.</P>
146.sgm:<P>It must be acknowledged, however, that if a person work his claim himself, is economical and industrious, keeps his health, and is satisfied with small gains, he is bound to make money.  And yet I cannot help remarking that almost all with whom we are acquainted seem to have <HI REND="italics">lost</HI>
146.sgm:.  Some have had their claims jumped.  Many holes, which had been excavated and prepared for working at a great expense, caved in during the heavy rains of the fall and winter.  Often, after a company has spent an immense deal of time and money in sinking a shaft, the water from the springs (the greatest obstacle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:which the miner has to contend with in this vicinity) rushes in so fast that it is impossible to work in them, or to contrive any machinery to keep it out, and for that reason, only, men have been compelled to abandon places where they were at the very time taking out hundreds of dollars a day.  If a fortunate or an unfortunate (which shall I call him?) <HI REND="italics">does</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Perhaps you would like to know what class of men is most numerous in the mines.  As well as I can judge, there are upon this river as many foreigners as Americans.  The former, with a few exceptions, are extremely ignorant and degraded, though we have the pleasure of being acquainted with three or four Spaniards of the highest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:education and accomplishments.  Of the Americans the majority are of the better class of mechanics.  Next to these, in number, are the sailors and the farmers.  There are a few merchants and steamboat-clerks, three or four physicians, and one lawyer.  We have no ministers, though fourteen miles from here there is a rancho kept by a man of distinguished appearance, an accomplished monte-dealer and horse-jockey, who is <HI REND="italics">said</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I have spun this letter out until my head aches dreadfully.  How tiresome it is to write <HI REND="italics">sensible</HI>
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146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">June</HI>
146.sgm:<P>BIRTH--STABBING--FOREIGNERS OUSTED--REVELS</P>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA mountain flora--A youthful Kanaka mother--Her feat of pedestrianism--Stabbing of a Spaniard by an American--The result of a request to pay a debt--Nothing done and but little said about the atrocity--Foreigners barred from working at Rich Bar--Spaniards thereupon move to Indian Bar--They erect places for the sale of intoxicants--Many new houses for public entertainment at Indian Bar--Sunday "swearing, drinking, gambling, and fighting"--Salubrity of the climate--No death for months, except by accidental drowning in flood-water--Capture of grizzly cubs--"The oddest possible pets"--An echo from the outside world once a month."</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
146.sgm:<P>YOU have no idea, my good little M., how reluctantly I have seated myself to write to you.  The truth is, that my last tedious letter about mining and other tiresome things has completely exhausted my scribbling powers, and from that hour to this the epistolary spirit has never moved me forward.  Whether on that important occasion my small brain received a shock from which it will never recover, or whether it is pure physical laziness which influenced me, I know not; but this is certain, that no whipped schoolboy ever crept to his hated task more unwillingly than I to my writing-desk on this beautiful morning.  Perhaps my indisposition to soil paper in your behalf is caused by the bewildering scent of that great, glorious bouquet of flowers which, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:gathered in the crisp mountain air, is throwing off cloud after cloud ("each cloud <HI REND="italics">faint</HI>
146.sgm:<P>O Molly! how I wish that I could send you this jar of flowers, containing, as it does, many which, in New England, are rare exotics.  Here you will find in richest profusion the fine-lady elegance of the syringa; there, glorious white lilies, so pure and stately; the delicate yet robust beauty of the exquisite privet; irises of every hue and size; and, prettiest of all, a sweet snow-tinted flower, looking like immense clusters of seed-pearl, which the Spaniards call "libla."  But the marvel of the group is an orange-colored blossom, of a most rare and singular fragrance, growing somewhat in the style of the flox.  This, with some branches of pink bloom of incomparable sweetness, is entirely new to me.  Since I have commenced writing, one of the Doctor's patients has brought me a bunch of wild roses.  Oh, how vividly, at the sight of them, started up before me those wooded valleys of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:Connecticut, with their wondrous depths of foliage, which, for a few weeks in midsummer, are perhaps unsurpassed in beauty by any in the world.  I have arranged the dear <HI REND="italics">home</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Nothing of importance has happened since I last wrote, except that the Kanaka wife of a man living at The Junction has made him the happy father of a son and heir.  They say that she is quite a pretty little woman, only fifteen years old, and walked all the way from Sacramento to this place.</P>
146.sgm:<P>A few evenings ago a Spaniard was stabbed by an American.  It seems that the presumptuous foreigner had the impertinence to ask very humbly and meekly that most noble representative of the Stars and Stripes if the latter would pay him a few dollars which he had owed him for some time.  His high mightiness the Yankee was not going to put up with any such impertinence, and the poor Spaniard received for answer several inches of cold <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>At Rich Bar they have passed a set of resolutions for the guidance of the inhabitants during the summer, one of which is to the effect that no foreigner shall work in the mines on that bar.  This has caused nearly all the Spaniards to immigrate upon Indian Bar, and several new houses for the sale of liquor, etc., are building by these people.  It seems to me that the above law is selfish, cruel, and narrow-minded in the extreme.</P>
146.sgm:<P>When I came here the Humboldt was the only public house on the Bar.  Now there are the Oriental, Golden Gate, Don Juan, and four or five others, the names of which I do not know.  On Sundays the swearing, drinking, gambling, and fighting which are carried on in some of these houses are truly horrible.</P>
146.sgm:<P>It is extremely healthy here.  With the exception of two or three men who were drowned when the river was so high, I have not heard of a death for months.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Nothing worth wasting ink upon has occurred for some time, except the capture of two grizzly-bear cubs by the immortal Yank.  He shot the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">June</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SUPPLIES <HI REND="italics">by</HI>
146.sgm: PACK-MULES--KANAKAS <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>BELATED arrival of pack-mule train with much-needed supplies--Picturesque appearance of the dainty-footed mules descending the hills--Of every possible color--Gay trappings--Tinkling bells--Peculiar urging cry of the Spanish muleteers--Lavish expenditure of gold-dust for vegetables and butter--Potatoes forty cents a pound--Incense of the pungent member of the lily family--Arrival of other storm-bound trains, and sudden collapse in prices--Horseback ride on dangerous trail--Fall of oxen over precipice--Mountain flowers, oaks, and rivulets--Visit to Kanaka mother--A beauty from the isles--Hawaiian superstition--An unfortunate request for the baby as a present--Consolatory promise to give the next one--Indian visitors--Head-dresses--"Very tight and very short shirts"--Indian mode of life--Their huts, food, cooking, utensils, manner of eating--Sabine-like invasion leaves to tribe but a few old squaws--"Startlingly unsophisticated state of almost entire nudity"--Their filthy habits--Papooses fastened in framework of light wood--Indian modes of fishing--A handsome but shy young buck--Classic gracefulness of folds of white-sheet robe of Indian--Light and airy step of the Indians something superhuman--Miserably brutish and degraded--Their vocabulary of about twenty words--Their love of gambling, and its frightful consequences--Arrival of hundreds of people at Indian Bar--Saloons springing up in every direction--Fluming operations rapidly progressing--A busy, prosperous summer looked for.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
146.sgm:<P>THE very day after I last wrote you, dear M., a troop of mules came onto the Bar, bringing us almost-forgotten luxuries, in the form of potatoes, onions, and butter.  A band of these animals is always a pretty sight, and you can imagine that the solemn fact of our having been destitute of the above-mentioned edibles since the middle of February did not detract from the pleasure with which we saw them winding cautiously down the hill, stepping daintily here and there with those absurd little feet of theirs, and appearing so extremely anxious for the safe conveyance of their loads.  They belonged to a Spanish packer, were in excellent condition, sleek and fat as so many kittens, and of every possible color, --black, white, gray, sorrel, cream, brown, etc.  Almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:all of them had some bit of red or blue or yellow about their trappings, which added not a little to the brilliancy of their appearance; while the gay tinkle of the leader's bell, mingling with those shrill and peculiar exclamations with which Spanish muleteers are in the habit of urging on their animals, made a not unpleasing medley of sounds.  But the creamiest part of the whole affair was--I must confess it, unromantic as it may seem--when the twenty-five or thirty pretty creatures were collected into the small space between our cabin and the Humboldt.  Such a gathering together of ham-and-mackerel-fed bipeds, such a lavish display of gold-dust, such troops of happy-looking men bending beneath the delicious weight of butter and potatoes, and, above all <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
146.sgm:<P>On the 1st of May a train had arrived at Rich Bar, and on the morning of the day which I have been describing to you one of our friends arose some three hours earlier than usual, went over to the aforesaid bar, bought twenty-five pounds of potatoes at forty cents a pound, and packed them home on his back.  In less than two days <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Last week I rode on horseback to a beautiful bar called The Junction, so named from the fact that at that point the East Branch of the North Fork of Feather River unites itself with the main North Fork.  The mule-trail, which lies along the verge of a dreadful precipice, is three or four miles long, while the footpath leading by the river is not more than two miles in length.  The latter is impassable, on account of the log bridges having been swept away by the recent freshets.  The other day two oxen lost their footing and fell over the precipice, and it is the general opinion that they were killed long before they reached the golden palace of the Plumerian Thetis.  I was a little alarmed at first, for fear my horse would stumble, in which case I should have shared the fate of the unhappy beeves, but soon forgot all fear in the enchanting display of flowers which each opening in the shrubs displayed to me.  Earth's firmament was starred with daphnes, irises, and violets of every hue and size; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:pale wood-anemones, with but one faint sigh of fragrance as they expired, died by hundreds beneath my horse's tread; and spotted tiger-lilies, with their stately heads all bedizened in orange and black, marshaled along the path like an army of gayly clad warriors.  But the flowers are not all of an oriental character.  Do you remember, Molly dear, how you and I once quarreled when we were, oh, such mites of children, about a sprig of syringa?  The dear mother was obliged to interfere, and to make all right she gave you a small brown bud, of most penetrating fragrance, which she told you was much more valuable than the contested flower.  I remember perfectly that she failed entirely in convincing <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
146.sgm: that the dark, somber flower was half as beautiful as my pretty cream-tinted blossom, and, if I mistake not, you were but poutingly satisfied with the substitute.  Here, even if we retained, which I do not, our childish fascination for syringas, we should not need to quarrel about them, for they are as common as dandelions in a New England meadow, and dispense their peculiar perfume--which, by the way, always reminds me of Lubin's choicest scents--in almost sickening profusion.  Besides the above-mentioned flowers, we saw wild roses and buttercups and flox and privet, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Just before one reaches The Junction there is a beautiful grove of oaks, through which there leaps a gay little rivulet celebrated for the grateful coolness of its waters.  Of course one is expected to propitiate this pretty Undine by drinking a draft of her glittering waters from a dirty tin cup which some benevolent cold-water man has suspended from a tree near the spring.  The bank leading down into the stream is so steep that people generally dismount and lead their animals across it, but F. declared that I was so light that the horse could easily carry me, and insisted upon my keeping the saddle.  Of course, like a dutiful wife, I had nothing to do but to obey.  So I grasped firmly the reins, shut my eyes, and committed myself to the Fates that take care of thistle-seeds, and lo! the next moment I found myself safely on the other side of the brook, my pretty steed--six weeks ago he was an Indian pony running wild on the prairie--curveting about and arching his elegant neck, evidently immensely proud of the grace and ease <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>The Junction is the most beautiful of all the bars.  From the store one can walk nearly a mile down the river quite easily.  The path is bordered by a row of mingled oaks and firs, the former garlanded with mistletoe, and the latter embroidered with that exquisitely beautiful moss which I tried to describe in one of my first letters.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The little Kanaka woman lives here.  I went to see her.  She is quite pretty, with large lustrous eyes, and two great braids of hair which made me think of black satin cables, they were so heavy and massive.  She has good teeth, a sweet smile, and a skin not much darker than that of a French brunette.  I never saw any creature so proud as she, almost a child herself, was of her baby.  In jest, I asked her to give it to me, and really was almost alarmed at the vehement burst of tears with which she responded to my request.  Her husband explained the cause of her distress.  It is a superstition among her people that he who refuses to give <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:another anything, no matter what, --there are no exceptions which that other may ask for, --will be overwhelmed with the most dreadful misfortunes.  Her own parents had parted with her for the same reason.  Her pretty girlish face soon resumed its smiles when I told her that I was in jest, and, to console me for the disappointment which she thought I must feel at not obtaining her little brown treasure, she promised to give me the <HI REND="italics">next</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I should have liked to visit the Indian encampment which lies a few miles from The Junction, but was too much fatigued to attempt it.  The Indians often visit us, and as they seldom wear anything but a <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
146.sgm: tight and <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
146.sgm: short shirt, they have an appearance of being, as Charles Dickens would say, all legs.  They usually sport some kind of a head-dress, if it is nothing more than a leather string, which they bind across their dusky brows in the style of the wreaths in Norma, or the gay ribbons garlanding the hair of the Roman youth in the play of Brutus.  A friend of ours, who has visited their camp several times, has just given me a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:description of their mode of life.  Their huts, ten or twelve in number, are formed of the bark of the pine, conically shaped, plastered with mud, and with a hole in the top, whence emerges the smoke, which rises from a fire built in the center of the apartment.  These places are so low that it is quite impossible to stand upright in them, and are entered from a small hole in one side, on all fours.  A large stone, sunk to its surface in the ground, which contains three or four pan-like hollows for the purpose of grinding acorns and nuts, is the only furniture which these huts contain.  The women, with another stone, about a foot and a half in length and a little larger than a man's wrist, pulverize the acorns to the finest possible powder, which they prepare for the table (?) in the following manner.  Their cooking utensils consist of a kind of basket, woven of some particular species of reed, I should fancy, from the descriptions which I have had of them, and are so plaited as to be impervious to fluids.  These they fill half full of water, which is made to boil by placing in it hot stones.  The latter they drag from the fire with two sticks.  When the water boils, they stir into it, until it is about as thick as hasty-pudding, the powdered acorns, delicately flavored with dried grasshoppers, and lo! dinner is ready.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>There are about eighty Indians in all at this encampment, a very small portion of which number are women.  A hostile tribe in the valley made a Sabine-like invasion upon the settlement a few months since, and stole away all the young and fair muchachas, leaving them but a few old squaws.  These poor withered creatures, who are seldom seen far from the encampment, do all the drudgery.  Their entire wardrobe consists of a fringe about two feet in length, which is formed of the branch or root--I cannot ascertain exactly which--of a peculiar species of shrub shredded into threads.  This scanty costume they festoon several times about the person, fastening it just above the hips, and they generally appear in a startlingly unsophisticated state of almost entire nudity.  They are very filthy in their habits, and my informant said that if one of them should venture out into the rain, grass would grow on her neck and arms.  The men, unhappy martyrs! are compelled to be a little more cleanly, from their custom of hunting and fishing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:for the wind <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm: blow off <HI REND="italics">some</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Their infants are fastened to a framework of light wood, in the same manner as those of the North American Indians.  When a squaw has anything to do, she very composedly sets this frame up against the side of the house as a civilized housewife would an umbrella or broom.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Some of their modes of fishing are very curious.  One is as follows.  These primitive anglers will seek a quiet deep spot in the river, where they know fish most do congregate, and throw therein a large quantity of stones.  This, of course, frightens the fish, which dive to the bottom of the stream, and Mr. Indian, plunging head foremost into the water, beneath which he sometimes remains several minutes, will presently reappear, holding triumphantly in each hand one of the finny tribe, which he kills by giving it a single bite in the head or neck with his sharp, knife-like teeth.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Hardly a day passes during which there are not three or four of them on this Bar.  They often come into the cabin, and I never order them away, as most others do, for their childish curiosity amuses me, and as yet they have not been troublesome.  There is one beautiful little boy, about eight years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:old, who generally accompanies them.  We call him Wild Bird, for he is as shy as a partridge, and we have never yet been able to coax him into the cabin.  He always wears a large red shirt, which, trailing to his little bronzed feet, and the sleeves every other minute dropping down over his dusky models of hands, gives him a very odd appearance.  One day Mrs. B., whom I was visiting at the time, coaxed Wild Bird into the house to see Charley, the hero of the champagne-basket cradle.  The little fellow gazed at us with his large, startled eyes without showing the least shadow of fear in his countenance, but his heart beat so violently that we could actually see the rise and fall of the old red shirt which covered its tremblings.  Mrs. B. made our copper-colored Cupidon a pretty suit of crimson calico.  His protectors--half a dozen grim old Indians (it was impossible to tell which was his father, they all made such a petted darling of him)--were compelled to array him in his new suit by main strength, he screaming dreadfully all the time.  Indeed, so exhausted was he by his shrieks that by the time he was fairly buttoned up in his crimson trappings he sank on the ground in a deep sleep.  The next day the barbarous little villain appeared trailing, as usual, his pet shirt after him at every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The other morning an Indian appeared on the Bar robed from neck to heels in a large white sheet, and you have no idea of the classic grace with which he had arranged the folds about his fine person.  We at first though him a woman, and he himself was in an ecstasy of glee at our mistake.</P>
146.sgm:<P>It is impossible to conceive of anything more light and airy than the step of these people.  I shall never forget with what enchanted eyes I gazed upon one of them gliding along the side of the hill opposite Missouri Bar.  One would fancy that nothing but a fly or a spirit could keep its footing on the rocks along which he stepped so stately, for they looked as perpendicular as a wall.  My friend observed that no white man could have done it.  This wild creature seemed to move as a cloud moves on a quiet day in summer, and as still and silently.  It really made me solemn to gaze upon him, and the sight almost impressed me as something superhuman.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Viewed in the most favorable manner, these poor creatures are miserably brutish and degraded, having very little in common with the lofty and eloquent aborigines of the United States.  It is said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:that their entire language contains but about twenty words.  Like all Indians, they are passionately fond of gambling, and will exhibit as much anxiety at the losing or winning of a handful of beans as do their paler brothers when thousands are at stake.  Methinks, from what I have seen of that most hateful vice, the <HI REND="italics">amount</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Hundreds of people have arrived upon our Bar within the last few days; drinking-saloons are springing up in every direction; the fluming operations are rapidly progressing; and all looks favorably for a busy and prosperous summer to our industrious miners.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">July</HI>
146.sgm:<P>FOURTH <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>FOURTH OF JULY celebration at Rich Bar--The author makes the flag--Its materials--How California was represented therein--Floated from the top of a lofty pine--The decorations at the Empire Hotel--An "officious Goth" mars the floral piece designed for the orator of the day--Only two ladies in the audience--Two others expected, but do not arrive--No copy of the Declaration of Independence--Preliminary speeches by political aspirants--Orator of the day reads anonymous poem--Oration "exceedingly fresh and new"--Belated arrival of the expected ladies, new-comers from the East--With new fashions, they extinguish the author and her companion--Dinner at the Empire--Mexican War captain as president--"Toasts quite spicy and original"--Fight in the barroom--Eastern lady "chose to go faint" at sight of blood--Cabin full of "infant phenomena"--A rarity in the mountains--Miners, on way home from celebration, give nine cheers for mother and children--Outcry at Indian Bar against Spaniards--Several severely wounded--Whisky and patriotism--Prejudices and arrogant assurance accounted for--Misinterpretation by the foreigner--Injustices by the lower classes against Spaniards pass unnoticed--Innumerable drunken fights--Broken heads and collarbones, stabbings--"Sabbaths almost always enlivened by such merry events"--Body of Frenchman found in river--Murder evident--Suspicion falls on nobody.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">July</HI>
146.sgm:<P>OUR Fourth of July celebration, dear M., which came off at Rich Bar, was quite a respectable affair.  I had the honor of making a flag for the occasion.  The stripes were formed of cotton cloth and red calico, of which last gorgeous material no possible place in California is ever destitute.  A piece of drilling, taken from the roof of the Humboldt, which the rain and the sun had faded from its original somber hue to just that particular shade of blue which you and I admire so much, served for a union.  A large star in the center, covered with gold-leaf, represented California.  Humble as were the materials of which it was composed, this banner made quite a gay appearance floating from the top of a lofty pine in front of the Empire, to which it was suspended.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I went over to Rich Bar at six in the morning, not wishing to take so fatiguing a walk in the heat of the day.  After breakfast I assisted Mrs. B. and one of the gentlemen in decorating the dining-room, the walls of which we completely covered with grape-vines, relieved here and there with bunches of elder-blow.  We made several hand-some bouquets, and arranged one of syringas, white lilies, and the feathery green of the cedar, to be presented, in the name of the ladies, to the orator of the day.  You can imagine my disgust, when the ceremony was performed, to observe that some officious Goth had marred the perfect keeping of the gift by thrusting into the vase several ugly purple blossoms.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The exercises were appointed to commence at ten o'clock, but they were deferred for half an hour, in expectation of the arrival of two ladies who had taken up their abode in the place within the last six weeks, and were living on Indian Bar hill.  As they did not come, however, it was thought necessary to proceed without them.  So Mrs. B. and myself were obliged to sit upon the piazza of the Empire, comprising, in our two persons, the entire female audience.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The scene was indeed striking.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A</HI>
146.sgm: FOURTH <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm: JULY WELCOME <HI REND="italics">to the</HI>
146.sgm: MINERS <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Ye are welcome, merry miners, in your blue and red shirts all;<LB>Ye are welcome, 'mid these golden hills, to your nation's festival;<LB>Though ye've not shaved your savage lips nor cut your barb'rous hair,<LB>Ye are welcome, merry miners, all bearded as ye are.<LB>What though your brows are blushing at the kisses of the sun,<LB>And your once white and well-kept hands are stained a sober dun;<LB>What though your backs are bent with toil, and ye have lost the air<LB>With which ye bowed your stately heads amid the young and fair, --<LB>I fain would in my slender palm your horny fingers clasp,<LB>For I love the hand of honest toil, its firm and heartfelt grasp;<LB>And I know, O miners brave and true, that not alone for self<LB>Have ye heaped, through many wearying months, your glittering pile of pelf.<LB>Ye of the dark and thoughtful eyes beneath the bronze&grave;d brow,<LB>Ye on whose smooth and rounded cheeks still gleams youth's purple glow,<LB>Ye of the reckless, daring life, ye of the timid glance;<LB>Ho! young and old; ho! grave and gay, --to our nation's fe&circ;te advance.<LB>Ho! sun-kissed brother from the South, where radiant skies are glowing;<LB>Ho! toiler from the stormy North, where snowy winds are blowing;</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">Ho! Buckeye, Hoosier, from the West, sons of the river great, --<LB>Come, shout Columbia's birthday song in the new Golden State.<LB>Ho! children of imperial France; ho!  Erin's brave and true;<LB>Ho! England's golden-bearded race, --we fain would welcome you,<LB>And dark-eyed friends from those glad climes where Spain's proud blood is seen;<LB>To join in Freedom's holy psalm ye'll not refuse, I ween.<LB>For now the banner of the free 's in <HI REND="italics">very deed</HI>
146.sgm: our own,<LB>And, 'mid the brotherhood of states, not ours the feeblest one.<LB>Then proudly shout, ye bushy men with throats all brown and bare,<LB>For, lo! from 'midst our flag's brave blue, leaps out a <HI REND="italics">golden</HI>
146.sgm:<P>After reading the above lines, Mr. B. pronounced beautifully a very splendid oration.  Unlike such efforts in general, it was exceedingly fresh and new, so that, instead of its being that infliction that Fourth of July orations commonly are, it was a high pleasure to listen to him.  Perhaps, where nature herself is so original, it is impossible for even thought to be hackneyed.  It is too long for a letter, but as the miners have requested a copy for publication, I will send it to you in print.</P>
146.sgm:<P>About half an hour after the close of the oration the ladies from the hill arrived.  They made a pretty picture descending the steep, --the one with her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The dinner was excellent.  We had a real live captain, a very gentlemanly person, who had actually been in action during the Mexican War, for president.  Many of the toasts were quite spicy and original; one of the new ladies sang three or four beautiful songs; and everything passed off at Rich Bar quite respectably.  To be sure, there was a small fight in the barroom, which is situated just below the dining-room, during which much speech and a little blood were spouted.  Whether the latter catastrophe was caused by a blow received, or the large talking of the victim, is not known.  Two peacefully inclined citizens, who at the first battle-shout had rushed manfully to the rescue, returned at the subsiding of hostilities with blood-bespattered shirt-bosoms, at which fearful sight the pretty wearer of the Pamela hat--one of the delinquents being her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>On our way home, half a dozen gentlemen who preceded us stepped in front of a cabin full of infant phenomena and gave nine cheers for the mother and her children; which will show what a rarity those embodiments of noise and disquiet are in the mountains.  This group of pretty darlings consists of three sweet little girls, slender, straight, and white as ivory wands, moving with an incessant and staccato (do you remember our old music lessons?) activity which always makes me think of my humming-birds.</P>
146.sgm:<P>About five o'clock we arrived at home, just in time to hear some noisy shouts of "Down with the Spaniards," "The great American people forever," and other similar cries, evident signs of quite a spirited fight between the two parties, which was, in reality, taking place at the moment.  Seven or eight of the e&acute;lite of Rich Bar, drunk with whisky and patriotism, were the principal actors in this unhappy affair, which resulted in serious injury to two or three Spaniards.  For some time past there has been a gradually increasing state of bad feeling exhibited by our countrymen (increased, we fancy, by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>It is very common to hear vulgar Yankees say of the Spaniards, "O, they are half-civilized black men!"  These unjust expressions naturally irritate the latter, many of whom are highly educated gentlemen of the most refined and cultivated manners.  We labor under great disadvantages, in the judgment of foreigners.  Our peculiar political institutions, and the prevalence of common schools, give to <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
146.sgm:<P>They are unable to distinguish those nice <HI REND="italics">shades</HI>
146.sgm: of manner which as effectually separate the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:gentleman from the clown with <HI REND="italics">us</HI>
146.sgm: as do these broader lines which mark these two classes among all other nations.  They think that it is the grand characteristic of Columbia's children to be prejudiced, opinionated, selfish, avaricious, and unjust.  It is vain to tell them that such are not specimens of American gentlemen.  They will answer, "They call themselves gentlemen, and you receive them in your houses as such."  It is utterly impossible for foreigners to thoroughly comprehend and make due allowance for that want of delicacy, and that vulgar "I'm as good as you are" spirit, which is, it must be confessed, peculiar to the lower classes of our people, and which would lead the majority of them to-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Enter a palace with their old felt hat on;<LB>To address the King with the title of Mister,<LB>And ask him the price of the throne he sat on.</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The class of men who rule society (?) in the mines are the gamblers, who, for the most part, are reckless, bad men, although, no doubt, there are many among them whose only vice is that fatal love of play.  The rest of the people are afraid of these daring, unprincipled persons, and when they commit the most glaring injustice against the Spaniards, it is generally passed unnoticed.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>We have had innumerable drunken fights during the summer, with the usual amount of broken heads, collar-bones, stabs, etc.  Indeed, the sabbaths are almost always enlivened by some such merry event.  Were it not for these affairs, I might sometimes forget that the sweet day of rest was shining down upon us.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Last week the dead body of a Frenchman was found in the river, near Missouri Bar.  On examination of the body it was the general opinion that he had been murdered.  Suspicion has, as yet, fallen upon no person.</P>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<illus entity="a146-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SALOON IN MINING-CAMP--MONTE-DEALER, MINERS, ESPAN&tilde;OLA &amp; MEXICANA</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: Pioneer, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
146.sgm:<P>MURDER, THEFT, RIOT, HANGING, WHIPPING, ETC.</P>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>THREE weeks of excitement at Indian Bar--Murders, fearful accidents, bloody deaths, whippings, hanging, an attempted suicide, etc.--A sabbath-morning walk in the hills--Miners' ditch rivaling in beauty the work of nature--Fatal stabbing by a Spaniard--Afterwards parades street with a Mexicana, brandishing a long bloody knife--His pursuit by and escape from the infuriated Americans--Unfounded rumor of conspiracy of Spaniards to murder Americans--Spaniards barricade themselves--Grief of Spanish woman over corpse of murdered man--Miners arrive from Rich Bar--Wild cry for vengeance, and for expulsion of Spaniards--The author prevailed upon to retire to place of safety--Accidental discharge of gun when drunken owner of vile resort attempts to force way through armed guard--Two seriously wounded--Sobering effect of the accident--Vigilance committee organized--Suspected Spaniards arrested--Trial of the Mexicana--Always wore male attire, was foremost in fray, and, armed with brace of pistols, fought like a fury--Sentenced to leave by daylight--Indirect cause of fight--Woman always to blame--Trial of ringleaders--Sentences of whipping, and to leave--Confiscation of property for benefit of wounded--Anguish of the author when Spaniards were whipped--Young Spaniard movingly but vainly pleads for death instead of whipping--His oath to murder every American he should afterwards meet alone--Doubtless will keep his word--Murder of Mr. Bacon, a ranchero, for his money, by his negro cook--Murderer caught at Sacramento with part of money--His trial at Rich Bar by the vigilantes--Sentence of death by hanging--Another negro attempts suicide--Accuses mulatto Ned of attempt to murder him--Dr. C. in trouble for binding up negro's self-inflicted wounds--Formation of "Moguls," who make night hideous--Vigilantes do not interfere--Duel at Missouri Bar--Fatal results--A large crowd present--Vigilance committee also present--"But you must remember that this is California."</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">August</HI>
146.sgm:<P>WE HAVE lived through so much of excitement for the last three weeks, dear M., that I almost shrink from relating the gloomy events that have marked their flight.  But if I leave out the darker shades of our mountain life, the picture will be very incomplete.  In the short space of twenty-four days we have had murders, fearful accidents, bloody deaths, a mob, whippings, a hanging, an attempt at suicide, and a fatal duel.  But to begin at the beginning, as, according to rule, one ought to do.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I think that, even among these beautiful hills, I never saw a more perfect bridal of the earth and sky than that of Sunday, the 11th of July.  On that morning I went with a party of friends to the head of the ditch, a walk of about three miles in length.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Shortly after our arrival, a perfectly deafening <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:volley of shouts and yells elicited from my companion the careless remark that the customary sabbath-day's fight was apparently more serious than usual.  Almost as he spoke there succeeded a deathlike silence, broken in a minute after by a deep groan at the corner of the cabin, followed by the words, "Why, Tom, poor fellow, are you really wounded?"  Before we could reach the door, it was burst violently open by a person who inquired hurriedly for the Doctor, who, luckily, happened at that very moment to be approaching.  The man who called him then gave us the following excited account of what had happened.  He said that in a me&circ;le&acute;e between the Americans and the foreigners, Domingo, a tall, majestic-looking Spaniard, a perfect type of the novelistic bandit of Old Spain, had stabbed Tom Somers, a young Irishman, but a naturalized citizen of the United States, and that, at the very moment, said Domingo, with a Mexicana hanging upon his arm, and brandishing threateningly the long, bloody knife with which he had inflicted the wound upon his victim, was parading up and down the street unmolested.  It seems that when Tom Somers fell the Americans, being unarmed, were seized with a sudden panic and fled.  There was a rumor (unfounded, as it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>In the mean while the consternation was terrific.  The Spaniards, who, with the exception of six or eight, knew no more of the affair than I did, thought that the Americans had arisen against them, and our own countrymen, equally ignorant, fancied the same of the foreigners.  About twenty of the latter, who were either sleeping or reading in their cabins at the time of the <HI REND="italics">e&acute;meute</HI>
146.sgm:, aroused by the cry of "Down with the Spaniards!" barricaded themselves in a drinking-saloon, determined to defend themselves as long as possible against the massacre which was fully expected would follow this appalling shout.  In the bakeshop, which stands next door to our cabin, young Tom Somers lay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>After a time the more sensible and sober part of the community succeeded in quieting, in a partial degree, the enraged and excited multitude.  During the whole affair I had remained perfectly calm, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>We three women, left entirely alone, seated ourselves upon a log overlooking the strange scene below.  The Bar was a sea of heads, bristling with guns, rifles, and clubs.  We could see nothing, but fancied from the apparent quiet of the crowd that the miners were taking measures to investigate the sad event of the day.  All at once we were startled by the firing of a gun, and the next moment, the crowd dispersing, we saw a man led into the log cabin, while another was carried, apparently lifeless, into a Spanish drinking-saloon, from one end <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:of which were burst off instantly several boards, evidently to give air to the wounded person.  Of course we were utterly unable to imagine what had happened, and, to all our perplexity and anxiety, one of the ladies insisted upon believing that it was her own husband who had been shot, and as she is a very nervous woman, you can fancy our distress.  It was in vain to tell her--which we did over and over again--that that worthy individual wore a <HI REND="italics">blue</HI>
146.sgm: shirt, and the wounded person a <HI REND="italics">red</HI>
146.sgm:<P>It seems that an Englishman, the owner of a house of the vilest description, a person who is said to have been the primary cause of all the troubles of the day, attempted to force his way through the line of armed men which had been formed at each side of the street.  The guard very properly refused <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The first act of the committee was to try a Mexicana who had been foremost in the fray.  She has always worn male attire, and upon this occasion, armed with a pair of pistols, she fought like a very fury.  Luckily, inexperienced in the use of fire-arms, she wounded no one.  She was sentenced to leave the Bar by daylight, --a perfectly just decision, for there is no doubt that she is a regular little demon.  Some went so far as to say she ought to be hanged, for she was the <HI REND="italics">indirect</HI>
146.sgm: cause of the fight.  You see, always it is the old cowardly excuse of Adam in Paradise, --the <HI REND="italics">woman</HI>
146.sgm: tempted me, and I did eat, --as if the poor frail head, once so pure and beautiful, had not sin enough of its own, dragging it forever downward, without being made to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The next day the committee tried five or six Spaniards, who were proven to have been the ringleaders in the sabbath-day riot.  Two of them were sentenced to be whipped, the remainder to leave the Bar that evening, the property of all to be confiscated to the use of the wounded persons.  O Mary! imagine my anguish when I heard the first blow fall upon those wretched men.  I had never thought that I should be compelled to hear such fearful sounds, and, although I immediately buried my head in a shawl, nothing can efface from memory the disgust and horror of that moment.  I had heard of such things, but heretofore had not realized that in the nineteenth century men could be beaten like dogs, much less that other men not only could sentence such barbarism, but could actually stand by and see their own manhood degraded in such disgraceful manner.  One of these unhappy persons was a very gentlemanly young Spaniard, who implored for death in the most moving terms.  He appealed to his judges in the most eloquent manner, as gentlemen, as men of honor, representing to them that to be deprived of life was nothing in comparison with the never-to-be-effaced stain of the vilest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Although, in my very humble opinion, and in that of others more competent to judge of such matters than myself, these sentences were unnecessarily severe, yet so great was the rage and excitement of the crowd that the vigilance committee could do no less.  The mass of the mob demanded fiercely the death of the prisoners, and it was evident that many of the committee took side with the people.  I shall never forget how horror-struck I was (bombastic as it <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
146.sgm: sounds) at hearing no less a personage than the Whig candidate for representative say that the condemned had better fly for their lives, for the "Avenger of Blood" was on their tracks!  I am happy to say that said very worthy but sanguinary individual, the Avenger of Blood, represented in this case by some half-dozen gambling rowdies, either changed his mind or lost scent of his prey, for the intended victims slept <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The following facts, elicited upon the trial, throw light upon this unhappy affair.  Seven miners from Old Spain, enraged at the cruel treatment which their countrymen had received on the Fourth, and at the illiberal cry of "Down with the Spaniards," had united for the purpose of taking revenge on seven Americans, whom they believed to be the originators of their insults.  All well armed, they came from The Junction, where they were residing at the time, intending to challenge each one his man, and in fair fight compel their insolent aggressors to answer for the arrogance which they had exhibited more than once towards the Spanish race.  Their first move, on arriving at Indian Bar, was to go and dine at the Humboldt, where they drank a most enormous quantity of champagne and claret.  Afterwards they proceeded to the house of the Englishman whose brutal carelessness caused the accident which wounded Pizarro and Oxley, when one of them commenced a playful conversation with one of his countrywomen.  This enraged the Englishman, who instantly struck the Spaniard a violent blow and ejected him from the shanty.  Thereupon ensued a spirited fight, which, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>On Tuesday following the fatal sabbath, a man brought news of the murder of a Mr. Bacon, a person well known on the river, who kept a ranch about twelve miles from Rich Bar.  He was killed for his money by his servant, a negro, who, not three months ago, was our own cook.  He was the last one anybody would have suspected capable of such an act.</P>
146.sgm:<P>A party of men, appointed by the vigilance committee, left the Bar immediately in search of him.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>On Saturday evening, about eight o'clock, as we sat quietly conversing with the two ladies from the hill, --whom, by the way, we found very agreeable additions to our society, hitherto composed entirely of gentlemen, --we were startled by the loud shouting, and the rushing close by the door of the cabin, which stood open, of three or four hundred men.  Of course we feminines, with nerves somewhat shattered from the events of the past week, were greatly alarmed.</P>
146.sgm:<P>We were soon informed that Henry Cook, vice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Their majesties the mob, with that beautiful consistency which usually distinguishes those august <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:individuals, insisted upon shooting poor Harry, for, said they, --and the reasoning is remarkably conclusive and clear, --a man so hardened as to raise his hand against his <HI REND="italics">own</HI>
146.sgm:<P>On the day following the attempted suicide, which was Sunday, nothing more exciting happened than a fight and the half-drowning of a drunken individual in the river, just in front of the Humboldt.</P>
146.sgm:<P>On Sunday last the thigh of Sen&tilde;or Pizarro was amputated, but, alas! without success.  He had been sick for many months with chronic dysentery, which, after the operation, returned with great violence, and he died at two o'clock on Monday morning, with the same calm and lofty resignation which had distinguished him during his illness.  When first wounded, believing his case hopeless, he had decidedly refused to submit to amputation, but as time wore on he was persuaded to take this one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The state of society here has never been so bad as since the appointment of a committee of vigilance.  The rowdies have formed themselves into a company called the "Moguls," and they parade the streets all night, howling, shouting, breaking into houses, taking wearied miners out of their beds and throwing them into the river, and, in short, "murdering sleep" in the most remorseless manner.  Nearly every night they build bonfires fearfully near some rag shanty, thus endangering the lives (or, I should rather say, the property, for, as it is impossible to sleep, lives are emphatically safe) of the whole community.  They retire about five o'clock in the morning, previously to this blessed event posting notices to that effect, and that they will throw any one who may disturb them into the river.  I am nearly worn out for want of rest, for, truly, they "make night hideous" with their fearful uproar.  Mr. Oxley, who still lies dangerously <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>277</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:ill from the wound received on what we call the "fatal Sunday," complains bitterly of the disturbances; and when poor Pizarro was dying, and one of his friends gently requested that they be quiet for half an hour and permit the soul of the sufferer to pass in peace, they only laughed and yelled and hooted louder than ever in the presence of the departing spirit, for the tenement in which he lay, being composed of green boughs only, could, of course, shut out no sounds.  Without doubt, if the Moguls had been sober, they would never have been guilty of such horrible barbarity as to compel the thoughts of a dying man to mingle with curses and blasphemies, but, alas! they were intoxicated, and may God forgive them, unhappy ones, for they knew not what they did.  The poor, exhausted miners--for even well people cannot sleep in such a pandemonium--grumble and complain, but they, although far outnumbering the rioters, are too timid to resist.  All say, "It is shameful," "Something ought to be done," "Something <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
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146.sgm:<P>I believe I have related to you everything but the duel, and I will make the recital of this as short as possible, for I am sick of these sad subjects, and doubt not but you are the same.  It took place on Tuesday morning, at eight o'clock, on Missouri Bar, when and where that same Englishman who has figured so largely in my letter shot his best friend.  The duelists were surrounded by a large crowd, I have been told, foremost among which stood the committee of vigilance!  The man who received his dear friend's fatal shot was one of the most quiet and peaceable citizens on the Bar.  He lived about ten minutes after he was wounded.  He was from Ipswich, England, and only twenty-five years old when his own high passions snatched him from life.  In justice to his opponent it must be said that he would willingly have retired after the first shots had been exchanged, but poor Billy Leggett, as he was familiarly called, insisted upon having the distance between them shortened, and continuing the duel until one of them had fallen.</P>
146.sgm:<P>There, my dear M., have I not fulfilled my promise of giving you a dish of horrors?  And only think of such a shrinking, timid, frail thing as I <HI REND="italics">used</HI>
146.sgm: to be "long time ago" not only living right in the midst of them, but almost compelled to hear, if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:not see, the whole.  I think I may without vanity affirm that I have "seen the elephant."  "Did you see his tail?" asks innocent Ada J., in her mother's letter.  Yes, sweet Ada; the entire animal has been exhibited to my view.  "But you must remember that this is California," as the new-comers are so fond of informing <HI REND="italics">us</HI>
146.sgm:<P>And now, dear M., adios.  Be thankful that you are living in the beautiful quiet of beautiful A., and give up "hankering arter" (as you know what dear creature says) California, for, believe me, this coarse, barbarous life would suit you even less than it does your sister.</P>
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146.sgm:<illus entity="a146-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WASHING IN ROCKERS ON RIVER'S BRINK--MINERS PACKING PAY-GRAVEL IN BUCKETS</P>
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146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">September</HI>
146.sgm:<P>MURDER--MINING SCENES--SPANISH BREAKFAST</P>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>RAMADA, unoccupied, wrecked by log rolling down hill--Was place of residence of wounded Spaniard, who died but a few days previously--Murder near Indian Bar--Innocent and harmless person arrested, said to answer description of murderer--A humorous situation--A "guard of honor" from the vigilantes while in custody--Upon release his expenses paid--Had a rest from hard work--Tendered a present and a handsome apology--Public opinion in the mines a cruel but fortunately a fickle thing--Invitation to author to breakfast at Spanish garden--The journey thereto, along river, with its busy mining scenes--The wing-dam, and how it differs from the ordinary dam--An involuntary bath--Drifts, shafts, coyote-holes--How claims are worked--Flumes--Unskilled workmen--Their former professions or occupations--The best water in California, but the author is unappreciative--Flavorless, but, since the Flood, always tastes of sinners--Don Juan's country-seat--The Spanish breakfast--The eatables and the drinkables--Stronger spirits for the stronger spirits--Ice, through oversight, the only thing lacking--Yank's tame cub--Parodic doggerel by the author on her loss of pets--A miners' dinner-party with but one teaspoon, and that one borrowed--An unlearned and wearisome blacksmith.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">September</HI>
146.sgm:<P>IF I COULD coax some good-natured fairy or some mischievous Puck to borrow for me the pen of Grace Greenwood, Fanny Forester, or Nathaniel P. Willis, I might be able to weave my stupid nothings into one of those airy fabrics the value of which depends entirely upon the skillful work, or rather penmanship, which distinguishes it.  I have even fancied that if I could steal a feather from the living opal swinging like a jeweled pendulum from the heart of the great tiger-lily which nods its turbaned head so stately within the mosquito-net cage standing upon the little table, my poor lines would gather a certain beauty from the rainbow-tinted quill with which I might trace them.  But as there is nobody magician enough to go out and shoot a fairy or a brownie <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:and bind it by sign and spell to do my bidding, and as I have strong doubts whether my coarse fingers would be able to manage the delicate pen of a humming-bird even if I could have the heart to rob my only remaining pet of its brilliant feathers, I am fain to be content with one of "Gillott's Best,"--no, of "C. R. Sheton's Extra Fine," although I am certain that the sentences following its hard stroke will be as stiff as itself.  If they were only as bright, one might put up with the want of grace, but to be stiff and stupid both, is <HI REND="italics">too</HI>
146.sgm: provoking, is it not, dear M.?  However, what must be, must be; and as I have nothing to write about, and do not possess the skill to make that nothing graceful, and as you will fret yourself into a scold if you do not receive the usual amount of inked pages at the usual time, why, of course I am bound to act (my first appearance on <HI REND="italics">any</HI>
146.sgm: stage, I flatter myself in <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
146.sgm: character) the very original part of the <HI REND="italics">bore</HI>
146.sgm:<P>But, without further preface, I will begin with one of the nothings.  A few days after the death of the unfortunate Spaniard, related in my last letter, a large log, felled by some wickedly careless woodman, rolled down from one of the hills, and so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>There has been another murder committed within a few miles of this place, which has given us something to gossip about, for the committee of vigilance had the good nature, purely for our amusement I conclude, to apprehend a lucky individual (I call him <HI REND="italics">lucky</HI>
146.sgm: advisedly, for he had all his expenses paid at the Humboldt, was remunerated for his lost time, enjoyed a holiday from hard work, had a sort of guard of honor composed of the most respectable men on the river, and was of more consequence for four days than ever he had been in the whole of his insignificant little life before) whom somebody fancied bore a faint resemblance to the description of the murderer.  This interesting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:lion--I was so fortunate as to catch a glimpse of him one morning, and am convinced that he would "roar you as gently as any sucking dove"--was fully cleared from the suspected crime; and if, before his acquittal, one might have fancied from the descriptions of his countenance that none but that of Mephistopheles in the celebrated picture of the Game of Life could equal its terrific malignity, after-accounts drew it a very Saint John's for sweet serenity of expression.  What was then called sullenness now took the name of resignation, and stupidity was quiet contempt.  Indeed, I began to fear that they would give him a public triumph, and invite me to make the flag with which to grace it.  I confess that I would almost have voted him a procession myself, in gratitude for the amusement which he had given us.  However, the committee were content with making him a handsome apology and present, and paying his expenses at the Humboldt.  O public opinion in the mines, thou art in truth a <HI REND="italics">cruel</HI>
146.sgm: thing, but, thank God, most <HI REND="italics">fickle</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The other day we were invited by a Spanish friend to breakfast at a garden situated half a mile from The Junction, and owned by another Spaniard.  It was a lovely morning in the latter part of August, and as we started about six o'clock, the walk was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>I suppose that you are quite worn out with descriptions of walks, and I will spare you this once.  I will not tell you how sometimes we were stepping lightly over immense rocks which a few months since lay fathoms deep beneath the foaming Plumas; nor how sometimes we were walking high above the bed of the river, from flume to flume, across a board connecting the two; nor how now we were scrambling over the roots of the upturned trees, and now jumping tiny rivulets; nor shall I say a single word about the dizziness we felt as we crept by the deep excavations lying along the road, nor of the beautiful walk at the side of the wing-dam (it differs from a common dam, in dividing the river length-ways instead of across), the glittering water rising bluely almost to a level with the path.  I do not think that I will ever tell you about the impromptu bath which one of the party took by tumbling accidentally into the river as he was walking gallantly behind us, which said bath made him decidedly disagree in our enthusiastic opinion of the loveliness of the promenade.</P>
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146.sgm:<P>No; I shall not say a single word upon any of these subjects, but leave them all to your vivid imagination.  Corkscrews could not draw a solitary sentence from me, now that I have made up my mind to silence.  But I <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm:<P>These particular "claims" consist of three galleries lying about eighty feet beneath the summit of the hill, and have already been drifted from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet into its side.  They are about five feet in height, slightly arched, the sides and roof, formed of rugged rocks, dripping with moisture, as if sweating beneath the great weight above.  Lights are placed at regular distances along these galleries to assist the miners in their work, and boards laid on the wet ground to make a convenient path for the wheelbarrows which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:convey the dirt and sand to the river for the purpose of washing it.  Wooden beams are placed here and there to lessen the danger of caving in, but I must confess that in spite of this precaution I was at first haunted with a horrible feeling of insecurity.  As I became reassured I repeated loudly those glorious lines of Mrs. Hemans commencing with-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>For the strength of the hills we bless thee,<LB>O God, our fathers' God!</HI>
146.sgm:<P>And a strange echo the gray rocks sent back, as if the mine-demons, those ugly gnomes which German legends tell us work forever in the bowels of the earth, were shouting my words in mockery from the dim depths beyond.</P>
146.sgm:<P>These claims have paid remarkably well, and if they hold out as they have commenced, the owners will gather a small fortune from their summer's work.</P>
146.sgm:<P>There is nothing which impresses me more strangely than the fluming operations.  The idea of a mighty river being taken up in a wooden trough, turned from the old channel along which it has foamed for centuries perhaps, its bed excavated many feet in depth, and itself restored to its old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>When we arrived at the little oak-opening described in a former letter, we were, of course, in duty bound to take a draft from the spring, which its admirers declare is the best water in all California.  When it came to my turn, I complacently touched the rusty tin cup, though I never <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
146.sgm: care much for water, in the abstract, <HI REND="italics">as</HI>
146.sgm: water.  Though I think it very useful to make coffee, tea, chocolate, and other good drinks, I could never detect any other flavor in it than that of <HI REND="italics">cold</HI>
146.sgm:<P>When we arrived at what may be called, in reference to the Bar, the country-seat of Don Juan, we were ushered into the parlor, two sides of which opened upon the garden and the grand old mountains which rise behind it, while the other two sides <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>After opening some cans of peaches, and cutting up some watermelons gathered from the garden, our friends went in to, or rather <HI REND="italics">out</HI>
146.sgm: to, the kitchen fire (two or three stones are generally the extent of this useful apartment in the mines) to assist in preparing the breakfast--and <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
146.sgm: a breakfast!  If "Tadger could do it when it chose," so can we miners.  We had--but what did we <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
146.sgm: have?  There were oysters which, I am sure, could not have been nicer had they just slid from their shells on the shore at Amboy; salmon, in color like the red, red gold; venison with a fragrant spicy gusto, as if it had been fed on cedar-buds; beef cooked in the Spanish fashion, --that is, strung onto a skewer and roasted on the coals, --than which I never tasted better; preserved chicken; and almost every possible vegetable bringing up the rear.  Then, for drinkables, we had tea, coffee, and chocolate; champagne, claret, and porter, with stronger spirits <HI REND="italics">for</HI>
146.sgm: the stronger spirits.  We lacked but one thing.  That was ice; which we forgot to bring from the Bar.  As, only four miles from our cabin, the snow never melts, that is a luxury we are never without, and, indeed, so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>On our return we called to see Yank's cub, which is fast rising into young grizzly-bearhood.  It is about the size of a calf, very good-natured, and quite tame.  Its acquirements, as yet, are few, being limited to climbing a pole.  Its education has not been conducted with that care and attention which so intelligent a beast merits, but it is soon, I hear, to be removed to the valley and placed under teachers capable of developing its wonderful talents to the utmost.</P>
146.sgm:<P>We also stopped at a shanty to get a large gray squirrel which had been promised to me some days before; but I certainly am the most unfortunate wretch in the world with pets.  This spiteful thing, on purpose to annoy me I do believe, went and got itself drowned the very night before I was to take it home.  It is always so.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I never had two humming-birds,<LB>With plumage like a sunset sky,<LB>But one was sure to fly away,<LB>And the other one was sure to die.<LB>I never nursed a flying-squirrel,<LB>To glad me with its soft black eye,<LB>But it always ran into somebody's tent,<LB>Got mistaken for a rat and killed!</HI>
146.sgm:<P>There, M.; there is poetry for you.  "Oh, the second verse does n't rhyme."--"Does n't?"--"And it ain't original, is it?"  Well, I never heard that rhyme was necessary to make a poet, any more than colors to make a painter.  And what if Moore <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
146.sgm: say the same thing twenty years ago?  I am sure any writer would consider himself lucky to have an idea which has been anticipated but <HI REND="italics">once</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Last night one of our neighbors had a dinner-party.  He came in to borrow a teaspoon.  "Had you not better take them all?"  I said.  "Oh, no," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>A blacksmith--not the learned one--has just entered, inquiring for the Doctor, who is not in, and he is obliged to wait.  Shall I write down the conversation with which he is at this moment entertaining me?  "Who writ this' ere?" is his first remark, taking up one of my most precious books, and leaving the marks of his irreverent fingers upon the clean pages.  "Shakespeare," I answer, as politely as possible.  "Did Spokeshave write it?  He was an almighty smart fellow, that Spokeshave, I've hear'n tell," replies my visitor.  "I must write hum and tell our folks that this' ere is the first carpet I've seen sin' I came to Californy, four year come next month," is his next remark.  For the last half-hour he has been entertaining me with a wearisome account of the murder of his brother by an Irishman in Boston, and the chief feeling which he exhibits is a fear that the jury should only bring in a verdict of manslaughter.  But I hear F.'s step, and his entrance relieves me from the bore.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I am too tired to write more.  Alas, dear M.!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>The express goes at eight in the morning.  The midnight moon is looking wonderingly in at the cabin window, and the river has a sleepy murmur that impels me irresistibly bedward.</P>
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146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: Pioneer, <HI REND="italics">October</HI>
146.sgm:<P>DISCOMFORTS <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm: TRIP <HI REND="italics">to</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>VISIT to the American Valley--Journey thither--Scenes by the way--Political convention--Delegates from Indian Bar--Arrival at Greenwood's Rancho, headquarters of Democrats--Overcrowded--Party proceed to the American Rancho, headquarters of Whigs--Also overcrowded--Tiresome ride of ladies on horseback--Proceed to house of friend of lady in party--An inhospitable reception, but the author entertains herself--Men of party return to American Rancho--Inroad upon the eatables--Landlord aghast, but pacified by generous orders for drinkables--California houses not proof against eavesdroppers--Misunderstandings and explanations overheard by the author--Illness of hostess--Uncomfortable and miserable night, and worse quarters--Handsome riding-habit, etc., of the hostess--Table-service, carpeting, chests of tea, casks of sugar, bags of coffee, etc., "the good people possessed everything but a house"--"The most beautiful spot I ever saw in California"--Owner building house of huge hewn logs--The author returns to the American Rancho--Its primitive furniture, etc.--Political visitors--The convention--Horse-racing and gambling--The author goes to Greenwood's Rancho--More primitive furniture and lack of accommodations--Misplaced benevolence of Bostonians--Should transfer their activities to California.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">October</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SINCE I last wrote you, dear M., I have spent three weeks in the American Valley, and I returned therefrom humbled to the very dust when thinking of my former vainglorious boast of having "seen the elephant."  To be sure, if having fathomed to its very depths the power of mere existence, without any reference to those conventional aids which civilization has the folly to think necessary to the performance of that agreeable duty, was any criterion, I certainly fancied that I had a right to brag of having taken a full view of that most piquant specimen of the brute creation, the California "elephant."  But it seems that I was mistaken, and that we miners have been dwelling in perfect palaces, surrounded by furniture of the most gorgeous description, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>You must know that a convention had been appointed to meet at that place for the purpose of nominating representatives for the coming election.  As F. had the misfortune to be one of the delegates, nothing would do but I must accompany him; for, as my health had really suffered through the excitements of the summer, he fancied that change of air might do me good.  Mrs. --, one of our new ladies, had been invited to spend a few weeks in the same place, at the residence of a friend of her husband, who was living there with his family.  As Mr. -- was also one of the delegates, we made up a party together, and, being joined by two or three other gentlemen, formed quite a gay cavalcade.</P>
146.sgm:<P>The day was beautiful.  But when is it ever otherwise in the mountains of California?  We left the Bar by another ascent than the one from which I entered the Bar, and it was so infinitely less steep than the latter, that it seemed a mere nothing.  You, however, would have fancied it quite a respectable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:hill, and Mr. -- said that so fearful did it seem to him the first time he went down it, that he vowed never to cross it but once more, --a vow, by the way, which has been broken many times.  The whole road was a succession of charming tableaux, in which sparkling streamlets, tiny waterfalls, frisky squirrels gleaming amid the foliage like a flash of red light, quails with their pretty gray plumage flecked with ivory, dandy jays, great awkward black crows, pert little lizards, innumerable butterflies, and a hundred other <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Plume&grave;d insects, winged and free,<LB>Like golden boats on a sunny sea,</HI>
146.sgm:<P>were the characters, grouped in a frame of living green, curtained with the blue folds of our inimitable sky.</P>
146.sgm:<P>We had intended to start very early in the morning, but, as usual on such excursions, did not get off until about ten o'clock.  Somebody's horse came up missing, or somebody's saddle needed repairing, or somebody's shirt did not come home in season from the washer-Chinaman (for if we <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
146.sgm: wear flannel shirts, we choose to have them clean when we ride out with the ladies), or something else equally important detained us.  It was about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:nine o'clock in the evening when we reached the valley and rode up to Greenwood's Rancho, which, by the way, was the headquarters of the Democratic party.  It was crowded to overflowing, as our ears told us long before we came in sight of it, and we found it utterly impossible to obtain lodgings there.  This building has no windows, but a strip of crimson calico, placed half-way from the roof and running all round the house, lets in the <HI REND="italics">red</HI>
146.sgm: light and supplies their place.  However, we did not stop long to enjoy the pictorial effect of the scarlet windows, --which really look very prettily in the night, --but rode straight to the American Rancho, a quarter of a mile beyond.  This was the headquarters of the Whigs, to which party our entire company, excepting myself, belonged.  Indeed, the gentlemen had only consented to call at the other house through compassion for the ladies, who were suffering from extreme fatigue, and they were rejoiced at the prospect of getting among birds of the same feather.  There, however, we were informed that it was equally impossible to procure accommodations.  In this dilemma we could do nothing but accept Mrs. --'s kind invitation and accompany her to the rancho of her friend, although she herself had intended, as it was so late, to stop at one of the hotels <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>I had been very sick for the last two hours, and had only kept up with the thought that we should soon arrive at our journey's end; but when I found that we were compelled to ride three miles farther, my heart sank within me.  I gave up all attempts to guide my horse, which one of the party led, leaned my head on the horn of my saddle, and resigned myself to my fate.  We were obliged to walk our horses the entire distance, as I was too sick to endure any other motion.  We lost our way once or twice, were exhausted with fatigue and faint with hunger, chilled through with the cold, and our feet wet with the damp night-air.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I forgot to tell you that Mrs. --, being very fleshy, was compelled to ride astride, as it would have been utterly impossible for her to have kept her seat if she had attempted to cross those steep hills in the usual feminine mode of sitting a horse.  She wore dark-gray bloomers, and, with a Kossuth hat and feather, looked like a handsome chubby boy.  Now, riding astride, to one unaccustomed to it, is, as you can easily imagine, more safe than comfortable, and poor Mrs. -- was utterly exhausted.</P>
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146.sgm:<P>When we arrived at our destined have, which we did at last, the gentleman of the house came forward and invited Mr. and Mrs. -- to alight.  Not a word was said to the rest of us, not even "Good evening."  But I was too far gone to stand upon ceremony.  So I dismounted and made a rush for the cooking-stove, which, in company with an immense dining-table on which lay (enchanting sight!) a quarter of beef, stood under a roof, the four sides open to the winds of heaven.  As for the remainder of the party, they saw how the land lay, and vamosed to parts unknown, namely, the American Rancho, where they arrived at four o'clock in the morning, some tired, I <HI REND="italics">guess</HI>
146.sgm:<P>In the mean time behold me, with much more truth than poetry literally alone in my glory, seated upon a wooden stool, with both feet perched upon the stove, and crouching over the fire in a vain attempt to coax some warmth into my thoroughly chilled frame.  The gentleman and lady of the house, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:with Mr. and Mrs. --, are assembled in grand conclave, in one room, of which the building consists, and as California houses are <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I must premise that Mrs. -- had written the day before to know if the visit, which her husband's friend had so earnestly solicited, would be conveniently received at this time, and was answered by the arrival, the next morning, for the use of herself and husband, of two horses, one of which I myself had the pleasure of riding, and found it a most excellent steed.  Moreover, when Mr. -- gave her the invitation, he said he would be pleased to have one of her lady friends accompany her.  So you see she was "armed and equipped as the law directed."</P>
146.sgm:<P>Thus defended, she was ushered into the presence of her hostess, whom she found reclining gracefully upon a very nice bed hung with snow-white muslin curtains, looking--for she is extremely pretty, though now somewhat pale--like a handsome wax doll.</P>
146.sgm:<P>"I am extremely sorry to find you unwell.  Pray, when were you taken? and are you suffering much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>"Ah," groaned my lady, in a faint voice, "I have had a fever, and am just beginning to get a little better.  I have not been able to sit up any yet, but hope to do so in a few days.  As we have no servants, my husband is obliged to nurse me, as well as to cook for several men, and I am really afraid that, under the circumstances, you will not be as comfortable here as I could wish."</P>
146.sgm:<P>"But, good heavens, my dear madam, why did you not send me word that you were sick?  Surely you must have known that it would be more agreeable to me to visit you when you are in health," replied Mrs. --</P>
146.sgm:<P>"Oh," returned our fair invalid, "I thought that you had set your heart upon coming, and would be disappointed if I postponed the visit."</P>
146.sgm:<P>Now, this was adding insult to injury.  Poor Mrs. --!  Worn out with hunger, shivering with cold, herself far from well, a new-comer, unused to the makeshift ways which some people fancy essential to California life, expecting from the husband's representations--and knowing that he was very rich--so different a reception, and withal frank perhaps <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>"Well, I must say that I have not been treated well.  Did you really think that I was so childishly crazy to get away from home that I would leave my nice plank house,"--it rose into palatial splendor when compared with the floorless shanty, less comfortable than a Yankee farmer's barn, in which she was standing, --"with its noble fireplace, nice board floor, two pleasant windows, and comfortable bed, for this wretched place?  Upon my word, I am very much disappointed.  However, I do not care so much for myself as for poor Mrs. --, whom I persuaded to come with me."</P>
146.sgm:<P>"What! is there <HI REND="italics">another</HI>
146.sgm:<P>"Certainly," was the bold reply of Mrs. --, for she was too much provoked to be embarrassed in the least.  "Availing myself of your husband's kind permission, I invited Mrs. --, who could not procure lodgings at either of the hotels, to accompany me.  But even if I were alone I should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>"Well," groaned the poor woman, "Jonathan" (or Ichabod, or David, or whatever was the domestic name of her better half), "I suppose that you must make up some kind of a bed for them on the ground."</P>
146.sgm:<P>Now, M., only fancy my hearing all this!  <HI REND="italics">Was n't</HI>
146.sgm:<P>In the mean time the useful little man, combining in his small person the four functions of husband, cook, nurse, and gentleman, made us a cup of tea and some saleratus biscuit, and though I detest saleratus biscuit, and was longing for some of the beef, yet, by killing the taste of the alkali with onions, we contrived to satisfy our hunger, and the tea warmed us a little.  Our host, in his capacity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>But how shall I describe to you the sufferings of that dreadful night?  I have slept on tables, on doors, and on trunks.  I have reclined on couches, on chairs, and on the floor.  I have lain on beds of straw, of corn-husks, of palm-leaf, and of ox-hide.  I remember one awful night spent in a bedbuggy berth, on board of a packet-boat on one of the lakes.  In my younger days I used to allow myself to be stretched upon the Procrustes bed of other people's opinion, though I have got bravely over such folly, and now I generally act, think, and speak as best pleases myself.  I slept two glorious nights on the bare turf, with my saddle for a pillow and God's kindly sky for a quilt.  I had <HI REND="italics">heard</HI>
146.sgm: of a bed of thorns, of the soft side of a plank, and of the bed-rock.  But all my <HI REND="italics">bodily</HI>
146.sgm: experience, theoretical or practical, sinks into insignificance before a bed of cobblestones.  Nothing in ancient or modern history can compare with it, unless it be the Irishman's famous down couch, which consisted of a single feather laid upon a rock, and, like him, if it had not been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:for the name of it, I should have preferred the bare rock.  They <HI REND="italics">said</HI>
146.sgm:<P>What became of Mr. --, our host, etc., on this dreadful night, was never known.  Mrs. -- and I held council together, and concluded that he was spirited away to some friendly haystack, but as he himself maintained a profound silence on the subject, it remains to this hour an impenetrable mystery, and will be handed down to posterity on the page of history with that of the man in the iron mask, and the more modern but equally insolvable riddle of "Who struck Billy Patterson?"</P>
146.sgm:<P>As soon as it was light we awoke and glanced around the room.  On one side hung a large quantity of handsome dresses, with a riding-habit, hat, gauntlets, whip, saddle and briddle, all of the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>We went out into the air.  The place, owned by our host, is the most beautiful spot that I ever saw in California.  We stood in the midst of a noble grove of the loftiest and largest trees, through which ran two or three carriage-roads, with not a particle of undergrowth to be seen in any direction.  Somewhere near the center of this lovely place he is building a house of hewn logs.  It will be two stories high, and very large.  He intends finishing it with the piazza all around, the first-floor windows to the ground, green blinds, etc.  He informed us that he thought it would be finished in three weeks.  You can see that it would have been much pleasanter for Mrs. -- to have had the privilege of deferring her visit for a month.</P>
146.sgm:<P>We had a most excellent breakfast.  As Mrs. -- said, the good people possessed everything but a house.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Soon after breakfast, my friends, who suspected from appearances the night before that I should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>My apartment, which was built of logs, was vexatiously small, with no way of letting in light, except by the door.  It was as innocent of a floor, and almost as thickly strewn with cobblestones, as the one which I had just left; but then, there <HI REND="italics">were</HI>
146.sgm:<P>The convention came off the day after our arrival in the valley, and as both of the nominees were from our settlement, we began to think that we were quite a people.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Horse-racing and gambling, in all their detestable varieties, were the order of the day.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>At the close of the convention the rancho passed into new hands, and as there was much consequent confusion, I went over to Greenwood's, and Mrs. -- returned to the house of her friend, where, having ordered two or three hundred armfuls of hay to be strewn on the ground, she made a temporary arrangement with some boards for a bedstead, and fell to making sheets from one of the innumerable rolls of cloth which lay about in every direction, for, as I said before, these good people had everything but a house.</P>
146.sgm:<P>My new room, with the exception of its red-calico window, was exactly like the old one.  Although it was very small, a man and his wife (the latter was the housekeeper of the establishment) slept there also.  With the aid of those everlasting blue blankets I curtained off our part, so as to obtain some small degree of privacy.  I had <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
146.sgm: large pocket-handkerchief (it was meant for a young sheet) on my bed, which was filled with good, sweet, fresh hay, and plenty of the azure coverings, so short and narrow that, when once we had lain down, it behooved us to remain perfectly still until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>On the other side of the partition, against which our bedstead was <HI REND="italics">built</HI>
146.sgm:<P>As it was very cold at this time, the damp ground upon which we were living gave me a severe cough, and I suffered so much from chillness that at last I betook myself to Rob Roy shawls and india-rubbers, and for the rest of the time walked about, a mere bundle of gum elastic and Scotch plaid.  My first move in the morning was to go out and sit upon an old traveling wagon which stood in front of my room, in order, like an old beggar-woman, to gather a little warmth from the sun.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Mrs. -- said, "The Bostonians were horror-stricken because the poor Irish, who had never known any other mode of living, had no floors in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>My poor husband suffered even more than I did, for though he had a nominal share in my luxurious bed with its accompanying pocket-handkerchief, yet, as Mrs. -- took it into her head to pay me a visit, he was obliged to resign it to her and betake himself to the barroom, and as every bunk and all the blankets were engaged, he was compelled to lie on the bar-floor (thank Heaven, there was a civilized floor there, of real boards), with his boots for a pillow.</P>
146.sgm:<P>But I am sure you must be tired of this long letter, for I am, and I reserve the rest of my adventures in the American Valley until another time.</P>
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146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">November</HI>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: OVERLAND TIDE <HI REND="italics">of</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>EXONERATION of landlords for conditions at Greenwood's Rancho--The American Valley--Prospective summer resort--Prodigious vegetables--New England scenery compared with that of California--Greenwood's Rancho--Place of origin of quartz hoax--Beautiful stones--Recruiting-place of overland immigrants--Haggard immigrant women--Death and speedy burial on the plains--Handsome young widow immigrant--Aspirants to matrimony candidates for her hand--Interesting stories of adventures on the plains--Four women, sisters or sisters-in-law, and their thirty-six children--Accomplished men--Infant prodigies--A widow with eight sons and one daughter--Primitive laundering, but generous patrons--The bloomer costume appropriate for overland journey--Dances in barroom--Unwilling female partners--Some illiterate immigrants--Many intelligent and well-bred women--The journey back to Indian Bar--The tame frog in the rancho barroom--The dining-table a bed at night--Elation of the author on arriving at her own log cabin.</P>
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146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">October</HI>
146.sgm:<P>IN MY last epistle, my dear M., I left myself safely ensconced at Greenwood's Rancho, in about as uncomfortable a position as a person could well be, where board was fourteen dollars a week.  Now, you must not think that the proprietors were at all to blame for our miserable condition.  They were, I assure you, very gentlemanly and intelligent men, and I owe them a thousand thanks for the many acts of kindness and the friendly efforts which they made to amuse and interest me while I was in their house.  They said from the first that they were utterly unprepared to receive ladies, and it was only after some persuasion, and as a favor to me, that they consented to let me come.  They intend soon to build a handsome house, for it is thought that this valley will be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The American Valley is one of the most beautiful in all California.  It is seven miles long and three or four wide, with the Feather River wending its quiet way through it, unmolested by flumes and undisturbed by wing-dams.  It is a superb farming country, everything growing in the greatest luxuriance.  I saw turnips there which measured larger round than my waist, and all other vegetables in the same proportion.  There are beautiful rides in every direction, though I was too unwell during my stay there to explore them as I wished.  There is one drawback upon the beauty of these valleys, and it is one peculiar to all the scenery in this part of California, and that is, the monotonous tone of the foliage, nearly all the trees being firs.  One misses that infinite variety of waving forms, and those endless shades of verdure, which make New England forest scenery so exquisitely lovely.  And then that gorgeous autumnal phenomenon, witnessed, I believe, nowhere but in the Northern States of the Union, one never sees here.  How often, in my far-away Yankee home, have I laid me down at eve, with the whole earth looking so freshly green, to rise in the morning and behold the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:wilderness blossoming, not only like the rose, but like all other flowers besides, and glittering as if a shower of butterflies had fallen upon it during the silent watches of the night.  I have a vague idea that I "hooked" that butterfly comparison from somebody.  If so, I beg the injured person's pardon, and he or she may have a hundred of <HI REND="italics">mine</HI>
146.sgm:<P>It was at Greenwood's Rancho that the famous quartz hoax originated last winter, which so completely gulled our good miners on the river.  I visited the spot, which has been excavated to some extent.  The stone is very beautiful, being lined and streaked and splashed with crimson, purple, green, orange, and black.  There was one large white block, veined with stripes of a magnificent blood-red color, and partly covered with a dark mass, which was the handsomest thing of the kind I ever saw.  Some of the crystallizations were wonderfully perfect.  I had a piece of the bed-rock given me, completely covered with natural prisms varying in size from an inch down to those not larger than the head of a pin.</P>
146.sgm:<P>Much of the immigration from across the plains, on its way to the cities below, stops here for a while to recruit.  I always had a strange fancy for that nomadic way of coming to California.  To lie down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:under starry skies, hundreds of miles from any human habitation, and to rise up on dewy mornings to pursue our way through a strange country, so wildly beautiful, seeing each day something new and wonderful, seemed to me truly enchanting.  But cruel reality strips <HI REND="italics">everything</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I was acquainted with a young widow of twenty, whose husband died of cholera when they were but five weeks on their journey.  He was a judge in one of the Western States, and a man of some eminence in his profession.  She is a pretty little creature, and all the aspirants to matrimony are candidates for her hand.</P>
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146.sgm:<P>One day a party of immigrant women came into my room, which was also the parlor of the establishment.  Some observation was made, which led me to inquire of one of them if her husband was with her.</P>
146.sgm:<P>"She hain't got no husband," fairly <HI REND="italics">chuckled</HI>
146.sgm: one of her companions.  "She came with <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
146.sgm:<P>At this startling and brutal announcement the poor girl herself gave a hysteric giggle, which I at first thought proceeded from heartlessness, but I was told afterwards, by the person under whose immediate protection she came out, and who was a sister of her betrothed, that the tender woman's heart received such a fearful shock at the sudden death of her lover, that for several weeks her life was despaired of.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I spent a great deal of time calling at the different encampments, for nothing enchanted me half so much as to hear about this strange exodus from the States.  I never weary of listening to stories of adventures on the plains, and some of the family histories are deeply interesting.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I was acquainted with four women, all sisters or sisters-in-law, who had among them thirty-six children, the entire number of which had arrived <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The immigration this year contained many intelligent and truly elegant persons, who, having caught the fashionable epidemic, had left luxurious homes in the States to come to California.  Among others, there was a young gentleman of nineteen, the son of a United States Senator, who, having just graduated, felt adventurous, and determined to cross the plains.  Like the rest, he arrived in a somewhat dilapidated condition, with elbows out, and a hat the very counterpart of Sam Weller's "gossamer ventilation," which, if you remember, "though <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Then there was a person who used to sing in public with Ossian Dodge.  He had a voice of remarkable purity and sweetness, which he was kind enough to permit us to hear now and then.  I hardly know of what nation he claimed to be.  His father was an Englishman, his mother an Italian.  He was born in Poland, and had lived nearly all his life in the United States.  He was not the only musical genius <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<P>There was another child, whom I used to go to look at as I would go to examine a picture.  She had, without exception, the most beautiful face I ever saw.  Even the alkali had not been able to mar the golden glory of the curls which clustered around that splendid little head.  She had soft brown eyes, which shone from beneath their silken lashes like "a tremulous evening star"; a mouth which made you think of a string of pearls threaded on scarlet; and a complexion of the waxen purity of the japonica, with the exception of a band of brownest freckles, which, extending from the tip of each cheek straight across the prettiest possible nose, added, I used to fancy, a new beauty to her enchanting face.  She was very fond of me, and used to bring me wild cherries which her brothers had gathered for her.  Many a morning I have raised my eyes from my book, startled by that vision of infant loveliness--for her step had the still grace of a snowflake--standing in beautiful silence by my side.</P>
146.sgm:<P>But the most interesting of all my pets was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:widow whom we used to call the "long woman."  When but a few weeks on the journey, she had buried her husband, who died of cholera after about six hours' illness.  She had come on; for what else could she do?  No one was willing to guide her back to her old home in the States, and when I knew her she was living under a large tree a few rods from the rancho, and sleeping at night, with all her family, in her one covered wagon.  God only knows where they all stowed themselves away, for she was a modern Mrs. Rogers, with "nine small children and one at the breast."  Indeed, of this catechismal number the oldest was but fifteen years of age, and the youngest a nursing babe of six months.  She had eight sons and one daughter.  Just fancy how dreadful!  Only one girl to all that boy!  People used to wonder what took me so often to her encampment, and at the interest with which I listened to what they called her stupid talk.  Certainly there was nothing poetical about the woman.  Leigh Hunt's friend could not have elevated <HI REND="italics">her</HI>
146.sgm: common-place into the sublime.  She was immensely tall, and had a hard, weather-beaten face, surmounted by a dreadful horn comb and a heavy twist of hay-colored hair, which, before it was cut, and its gloss all destroyed by the alkali, must, from its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:luxuriance, have been very handsome.  But what really interested me so much in her was the dogged and determined way in which she had set that stern, wrinkled face of hers against poverty.  She owned nothing in the world but her team, and yet she planned all sorts of successful ways to get food for her small, or rather large, family.  She used to wash shirts, and iron them on a chair, in the open air of course, and you can fancy with what success.  But the gentlemen were too generous to be critical, and as they paid her three or four times as much as she asked, she accumulated quite a handsome sum in a few days.  She made me think of a long-legged very thin hen scratching for dear life to feed her never-to-be-satisfied brood.  Poor woman!  She told me that she was compelled to allowance <HI REND="italics">her</HI>
146.sgm: young ones, and that she seldom gave them as much as they could eat at any one meal.  She was worse off than the <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>old woman who lived in a shoe,<LB>And had so many children she didn't know what to do.<LB>To some she gave butter, to some she gave bread,<LB>And to some she gave whippings, and sent them to bed.</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Now, <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
146.sgm: old woman had no butter, and very little bread; and she was so naturally economical that even whippings were sparingly administered.  But, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:after all their privations, they were, with the exception of the eldest hope, as healthy-looking a set of ragged little wretches as ever I saw.  The aforesaid "hope" was the longest, the leanest, and the bobsidedest specimen of a Yankee that it is possible to imagine.  He wore a white face, whiter eyes, and whitest hair, and walked about looking as if existence was the merest burden and he wished somebody would have the goodness to take it off his hands.  He seemed always to be in the act of yoking up a pair of oxen, and ringing every change of which the English alphabet is capable upon the one single Yankee execration, "Darnation!" which he scattered, in all its comical varieties, upon the tow head of his young brother, a piece of chubby giggle, who was forever trying to hold up a dreadful yoke, which <HI REND="italics">wouldn't</HI>
146.sgm: "stay put," in spite of all the efforts of those fat dirty little hands of his.  The "long woman," mother-like, excused him by saying that he had been sick, though once, when the "Darned fools" flew thicker than usual, she gently observed that he had forgotten that he was a child himself once.  He certainly retained no trace of having enjoyed that delightful state of existence, and though one would not be so rude as to call him an old boy, yet, being always clad in a middle-aged habit, an elderly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:coat, and adult pantaloons, one would as little fancy him a <HI REND="italics">young</HI>
146.sgm:<P>There was another dear old lady to whom I took the largest kind of a liking, she was so exquisitely neat.  Although she too had no floor, her babe always had on a clean white dress, and face to match.  She was about four feet high, and had a perfect passion for wearing those frightful frontpieces of false hair with which the young women of L. were once in the habit of covering their abundant tresses.  She used to send me little pots of fresh butter, --the first that I had tasted since I left the States, --beautifully stamped, and looking like ingots of virgin gold.  I, of course, made a dead-set at the frontpiece, though I do believe that to this distorted taste, and its accompanying horror of a cap, she owed the preservation of her own beautiful hair.  To please me she laid it aside, but I am convinced that it was restored to its proud eminence as soon as I left the valley, for she evidently had a "sneaking kindness" for it that nothing could destroy.  I have sometimes thought that she wore it from religious principle, thinking it her duty to look as old as possible, for she appeared fifteen years younger when she took it off.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:She told me that in crossing the plains she used to stop on Saturdays, and taking everything out of the wagons, wash them in strong lye, to which precaution she attributed the perfect health which they all enjoyed (the <HI REND="italics">family</HI>
146.sgm:<P>There is one thing for which the immigrants deserve high praise, and that is, for having adopted the bloomer dress (frightful as it is on all other occasions) in crossing the plains.  For such an excursion it is just the thing.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I ought to say a word about the dances which we used to have in the barroom, a place so low that a <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
146.sgm: tall man could not have stood upright in it.  One side was fitted up as a store, and another side with bunks for lodgers.  These bunks were elegantly draperied with red calico, through which we caught dim glimpses of blue blankets.  If they could only have had sheets, they would have fairly been enveloped in the American colors.  By the way, I wonder if there is anything <HI REND="italics">national</HI>
146.sgm: in this eternal passion for blue blankets and red calico.  On ball-nights the bar was closed, and everything was very quiet and respectable.  To be sure, there was some danger of being swept away in a flood of tobacco-juice, but luckily the floor was uneven, and it lay around in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Of course the company was made up principally of the immigrants.  Such dancing, such dressing, and such conversation, surely was never heard or seen before.  The gentlemen generally were compelled to have a regular fight with their fair partners before they could them onto the floor.  I am happy to say that almost always the stronger vessel won the day, or rather night, except in the case of certain timid youths, who, after one or two attacks, gave up the battle in despair.</P>
146.sgm:<P>I thought that I had had some experience in bad grammar since I came to California, but these good people were the first that I had ever heard use right royal <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
146.sgm: instead of <HI REND="italics">us</HI>
146.sgm:<P>After reading the description of the inconveniences and discomforts which we suffered in the American Valley, --and I can assure you that I have not at all exaggerated them, --you may imagine my joy when two of our friends arrived from Indian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>We stopped at the top of the hill and set fire to some fir-trees.  Oh, how splendidly they looked, with the flames leaping and curling amid the dark green foliage like a golden snake fiercely beautiful.  The shriek which the fire gave as it sprang upon its verdant prey made me think of the hiss of some furious reptile about to wrap in its burning folds its helpless victim.</P>
146.sgm:<P>With what perfect delight did I re-enter my beloved log cabin.  One of our good neighbors had swept and put it in order before my arrival, and everything was as clean and neat as possible.  How grateful to my feet felt the thick warm carpet; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<illus entity="a146-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WHASING IN LONG-TOM WITH WATER FROM FLUME--CHEAPER THAN PUMPING FROM RIVER</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LETTER <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
146.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">The</HI>
146.sgm: PIONEER, <HI REND="italics">December</HI>
146.sgm:<P>MINING FAILURES--DEPARTURE <HI REND="italics">from</HI>
146.sgm:<P>SYNOPSIS</P>
146.sgm:<P>DREAD of spending another winter at Indian Bar--Failure of nearly all the fluming companies--Official report of one company--Incidental failure of business people--The author's preparations to depart--Prediction of early rains--High prices cause of dealers' failure to lay in supply of provisions--Probable fatal results to families unable to leave Bar--Rain and snow--The Squire a poor weather prophet--Pack-mule trains with provisions fail to arrive--Amusement found in petty litigation--Legal acumen of the Squire--He wins golden opinions--The judgment all the prevailing party gets--What the constable got in effort to collect judgment--Why Dr. C.'s fee was not paid--A prescription of "calumny and other pizen doctor's stuff"--A wonderful gold specimen in the form of a basket--"Weighs about two dollars and a half"--How little it takes to make people comfortable--A log-cabin meal and its table-service--The author departs on horseback from Indian Bar--Her regrets upon leaving the mountains--"Feeble, half-dying invalid not recognizable in your now perfectly healthy sister."</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From our Log Cabin</HI>
146.sgm:, INDIAN BAR, <HI REND="italics">November</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I SUPPOSE, Molly dear, --at least, I flatter myself, --that you have been wondering and fretting a good deal for the last few weeks at not hearing from Dame Shirley.  The truth is, that I have been wondering and fretting <HI REND="italics">myself</HI>
146.sgm:<P>To our unbounded surprise, we found, on our return from the American Valley, that nearly all the fluming companies had failed.  Contrary to every expectation, on arriving at the bed-rock no gold made its appearance.  But a short history of the rise, progress, and final fate of one of these associations, given me in writing by its own secretary, conveys <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>"The thirteen men, of which the American Fluming Company consisted, commenced getting out timber in February.  On the 5th of July they began to lay the flume.  A thousand dollars were paid for lumber which they were compelled to buy.  They built a dam six feet high and three hundred feet in length, upon which thirty men labored nine days and a half.  The cost of said dam was estimated at two thousand dollars.  This company left off working on the twenty-fourth day of September, having taken out, in <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
146.sgm:<P>A very small amount of arithmetical knowledge will enable one to figure up what the American Fluming Company made by <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Of course the whole world ( <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
146.sgm:<P>Of course with the failure of the golden harvest Othello's occupation was gone.  The mass of the unfortunates laid down the shovel and the hoe, and left the river in crowds.  It is said that there are not twenty men remaining on Indian Bar, although two months ago you could count them up by hundreds.</P>
146.sgm:<P>We were to have departed on the 5th of November, and my toilet-table and wash-hand-stand, duly packed for that occasion, their occupation <HI REND="italics">also</HI>
146.sgm: gone, have remained ever since in the humble position of mere trunks.  To be sure, the expressman called for us at the appointed time, but, unfortunately, F. had not returned from the American Valley, where he had gone to visit a sick friend, and Mr. Jones was not willing to wait even one day, so much did he fear being caught in a snowstorm with his mules.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>It is the twenty-first day of November, and for the last three weeks it has rained and snowed alternately, with now and then a fair day sandwiched between, for the express purpose, as it has seemed, of aggravating our misery, for, after twelve hours of such sunshine as only our own California can show, we were sure to be gratified by an exceedingly well got up tableau of the deluge, <HI REND="italics">without</HI>
146.sgm: that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>The few men that have remained on the Bar have amused themselves by prosecuting one another right and left.  The Squire, bless his honest, lazy, Leigh Huntish face, comes out strong on these occasions.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:He has pronounced decisions which, for legal acumen, brilliancy, and acuteness, would make Daniel Webster, could he hear them, tear his hair to that extent--from sheer envy--that he would be compelled to have a wig ever after.  But, jesting apart, the Squire's course has been so fair, candid, and sensible, that he has won golden opinions from all; and were it not for his insufferable laziness and good nature, he would have made a most excellent justice of the peace.  The prosecuting party generally "gets judgment," which is about all he <HI REND="italics">does</HI>
146.sgm:<P>"Well, old fellow, did you see Big Bill?" eagerly inquired F.</P>
146.sgm:<P>"Yes," is the short and sullen reply.</P>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>"And what did you <HI REND="italics">get</HI>
146.sgm:<P>"I got THIS!" savagely shouts the amateur constable, at the same time pointing with a grin of rage to a huge swelling on his upper lip, gleaming with all the colors of the rainbow.</P>
146.sgm:<P>"What did you do then?" was the next meek inquiry.</P>
146.sgm:<P>"Oh, I came away," says our brave young officer of justice.  And indeed it would have been madness to have resisted this delightful Big Bill, who stands six feet four inches in his stockings, with a corresponding amount of bone and muscle, and is a star of the first magnitude in boxing circles.  F. saved the creature's life last winter, having watched with him three nights in succession.  He refuses to pay his bill"'cos he gin him <HI REND="italics">calumny</HI>
146.sgm:<P>I wish that you could see <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
146.sgm: about these times.  I am generally found seated on a cigar-box in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>Sometimes I lounge forlornly to the window and try to take a bird's-eye view of outdoors.  First, now a large pile of gravel prevents my seeing anything else, but by dint of standing on tiptoe I catch sight of a hundred other large piles of gravel, Pelion-upon-Ossa-like heaps of gigantic stones, excavations of fearful deepness, innumerable tents, calico hovels, shingle palaces, ramadas (pretty arbor-like places, composed of green boughs, and baptized with that sweet name), half a dozen blue and red <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>I have just been called from my letter to look at a wonderfully curious gold specimen.  I will try to describe it to you; and to convince you that I do not exaggerate its rare beauty, I must inform you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:that two friends of ours have each offered a hundred dollars for it, and a blacksmith in the place--a man utterly unimaginative, who would not throw away a red cent on a <HI REND="italics">mere</HI>
146.sgm: fancy--has tried to purchase it for fifty dollars.  I wish most earnestly that you could see it.  It is of unmixed gold, weighing about two dollars and a half.  Your first idea on looking at it is of an exquisite little basket.  There is the graceful cover with its rounded nub at the top, the three finely carved sides (it is triformed), the little stand upon which it sets, and the tiny clasp which fastens it.  In detail it is still more beautiful.  On one side you see a perfect W, each finely shaded bar of which is fashioned with the nicest exactness.  The second surface presents to view a Grecian profile, whose delicately cut features remind you of the serene beauty of an antique gem.  It is surprising how much expression this face contains, which is enriched by an oval setting of delicate beading.  A plain triangular space of burnished gold, surrounded with bead-work similar to that which outlines the profile, seems left on purpose for a name.  The owner, who is a Frenchman, decidedly refuses to sell this gem, and you will probably never have an opportunity to see that the same Being who has commanded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>To my extreme vexation, Ned, that jewel of cooks and fiddlers, departed at the first approach of rain, since when I have been obliged to take up the former delightful employment myself.  Really, everybody ought to go to the mines, just to see how little it takes to make people comfortable in the world.  My ordinary utensils consist of, --item, one iron dipper, which holds exactly three pints; item, one brass kettle of the same size; and item, the gridiron, made out of an old shovel, which I described in a former letter.  With these three assistants I perform absolute wonders in the culinary way.  Unfortunately, I am generally compelled to get three breakfasts, for sometimes the front-stick <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
146.sgm:<P>At dinner-time some good-natured friend carves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>F. has just entered, with the joyful news that the expressman has arrived.  He says that it will be impossible for mule trains to get in for some time to come, even if the storm is really over, which he does not believe.  In many places on the mountains the snow is already five feet in depth, although he thinks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>349</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:<P>My heart is heavy at the thought of departing forever from this place.  I <HI REND="italics">like</HI>
146.sgm: this wild and barbarous life.  I leave it with regret.  The solemn fir-trees, whose "slender tops <HI REND="italics">are</HI>
146.sgm: close against the sky" here, the watching hills, and the calmly beautiful river, seem to gaze sorrowfully at me as I stand in the moonlighted midnight to bid them farewell.  Beloved, unconventional wood-life; divine Nature, into whose benign eyes I never looked, whose many voices, gay and glad, I never heard, in the artificial heart of the busy world, --I quit your serene teachings for a restless and troubled future.  Yes, Molly, smile if you will at my folly, but I go from the mountains with a deep heart-sorrow.  I took kindly to this existence, which to you seems so sordid and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
146.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>350</PRINTPGNO>
146.sgm:mean.  Here, at least, I have been contented.  The "thistle-seed," as you call me, sent abroad its roots right lovingly into this barren soil, and gained an unwonted strength in what seemed to you such unfavorable surroundings.  You would hardly recognize the feeble and half-dying invalid, who drooped languidly out of sight as night shut down between your straining gaze and the good ship Manilla as she wafted her far away from her Atlantic home, in the person of your <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
146.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
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146.sgm:<BACK><DIV><P>PRINTED BY THOMAS C. RUSSELL</P>
146.sgm:<P>AT HIS PRIVATE PRESS, SEVENTEEN</P>
146.sgm:<P>THIRTY-FOUR NINETEENTH AVENUE</P>
146.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA</P>
148.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-148</TITLE>
148.sgm:<TITLE>Life sketches of a jayhawker of '49, by L. Dow Stephens; actually told by himself in his own way: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
148.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
148.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
148.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
148.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
148.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
148.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
148.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>17-6538</LCCN>
148.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
148.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 457130</COPYRIGHT>
148.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<P>Life Sketchesof a Jayhawker of '49</P>
148.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LIFE SKETCHES OF A <LB>JAYHAWKER<LB> OF '49<LB> BY L. DOW STEPHENS<LB> ACTUAL EXPERIENCES OF A PIONEER<LB> TOLD BY HIMSELF IN HIS<LB> OWN WAY<LB> NINETEEN SIXTEEN</HEAD>
148.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<P>DEDICATED TO<LB>MY OLD AND ESTEEMED FRIEND<LB>HENRY CURTNER</P>
148.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<HEAD>LIFE SKETCHES OF A<LB> JAYHAWKER<LB>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>From all information obtainable my great great grandfather came to this country from Wales, but the date is unknown.  He settled in Morris County, New Jersey.  His name was Jacob Stephens, and to him was born a son, Richard Stephens, born on the same day as General George Washington, February 22, 1732.  Richard Stephens had a son, Samuel Stephens, my grandfather, and he took part in the War of the Revolution, as did my grandfather Addis on my mother's side.  At the close of the war they both returned home and took up agricultural pursuits.</P>
148.sgm:<P>In the year 1820, my grandfather Addis moved from New Jersey to Illinois and was a pioneer of that state.  I have heard my grandmother tell of Chicago at that time.  It consisted of one log house and a small ferry where they crossed the Chicago River going South.  They passed but two or three settlers between Chicago and Lewiston, a distance of a hundred and eighty miles.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Grandfather purchased thirty-six sections of land, equal to twenty-three thousand acres, in what was called the Military tract.  After his death the heirs neglected to pay the taxes, so it was sold over and over for the amount of the taxes.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Just before the Black Hawk War my father, Richard Stephens, son of Samuel Stephens, with his family moved from New Jersey to Illinois.  At Canton, then the front of civilization, he built the first frame house in that town, all others being constructed of logs, laid pioneer style.  About 1832 the country became much disturbed from the Black Hawk War, and a move was made to Ohio.  After remaining about six years the family returned to Illinois and settled near Galesburgh.</P>
148.sgm:<P>By his marriage to Eleanor Addis, who was born in New Jersey, there was born five children, all of whom attained mature age, and of whom but two are now living.  The youngest of the family born near Hacketstown, New Jersey, September 29, 1827, was the only one to come to the Western Coast.  While he was reared on a farm and acquired agricultural knowledge, he was also taught the carpenter trade under his father's able instructions.  The most memorable events of his youth, and indeed his whole life began when the news of gold discovery arrived from California.  He was anxious to try his fortune in the mines, and joined an Illinois party bound for California.  On March 28, 1849, the expedition started on its long and too many fatal journey.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The outfits generally consisted of three to four yoke of oxen, good strong wagons well loaded with provisions, bedding and clothing.  In fact we found later that we were too heavily loaded.  Let me say here that the hardest pull we had was the leave-taking.  We were leaving behind home, all that was near and dear, all the friends among whom our youthful days <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<P>That spring happened to be a very wet one, and the roads were almost impassable.  The streams were swollen and overflowing their banks, bridges were washed away, and consequently much time had to be spent repairing and building new ones.  On many of the larger streams we constructed rafts of logs and rafted the wagons over, and the cattle were made to swim.  Through Iowa we found many prairie sloughs, and they seemed bottomless.  Here we had to cut sod and lay several thicknesses before we could pass over.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Having started early in the season we had to buy feed for the stock until we reached the Missouri River, as the grass wasn't high enough to keep the stock in travelling condition.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Iowa, at this time, was very sparsely settled.  Farm houses were twenty miles and more apart, and we found here and there villages of cheap unpainted houses.  We found game in plenty, consisting chiefly of deer, wild turkeys and prairie chickens.  When we reached the Missouri River at Council Bluff, we travelled down the river to Traders' Point, a distance of ten or twelve miles.  Here we remained for a week, waiting for the grass to get a good start, arranging for a larger expedition.  This point was the end of the Settlements, and further on lay the Indian country.  We realized a larger body would be safer, but we found that it took more time and we could make little headway with so large an expedition. So we divided into companies, and in this way travelled faster.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We had quite an experience crossing the Missouri River.  The ferry was a small scow and could carry but one empty wagon at a time.  The scow was propelled by two oars, two men at an oar, and the current was very swift.  Imagine the time it took to transport fifty wagons and the loads; we had difficulty getting the cattle to swim at first.  We didn't realize that the sun shining on the water made much difference, so the first time the cattle swam round and round for two hours, and we were compelled to let them land again where they started.  But next morning before sunrise we started a small boat with a couple of men having a steer in tow, all the rest of the cattle followed without any trouble and made the opposite shore safely.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Our first experience with the Indians came with our first camp across the river.  Our camp fires were going nicely, supper was started, when we heard gun shots, volley after volley.  In a few minutes from over the ridge came two to three hundred Pawnee Indians, riding at full run straight for our camp.  It was a few minutes work for us to get our rifles in readiness, but the Indians put up a white flag, and they were allowed to enter camp.  It seemed that a party of the Sioux tribe had given them battle, the two being at war, and the Pawnees had rushed to our camp expecting protection, but we ordered them off, telling them we wished no trouble with the Sioux as we had to travel their country, and wanted no enemies.  We took the precaution to organize our body with regular military style with Colonels and Captains.  For awhile we were very vigilant.  Our picket guards were stationed three hundred yards from camp, and had to lie down to see any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<P>We did not want any false alarms, but like many others we grew careless of danger.  Many of us went two or three miles from camp, often being away all day hunting and looking over the country. I remember that two of us travelled a long distance on the bank of the river, when, without any warning an Indian appeared before us.  At the same time geese were flying overhead and the Indian said "Shoot, shoot".  My companion raised his gun, and I made a quick dash to lower it, and said "we had better not waste our shot, for I don't like the looks of things".  We had moved but a few steps when arrows rained down all about us, but not an Indian in sight, except the one we had spoken with.  After a short distance more, beyond the range of arrows, we turned and saw over a dozen Indians raising up out of the grass.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I was carrying a very fine rifle with twenty-seven pieces of silver mounting, and I think this was what they wished.  We must have been a little out of range for them to shoot directly at us, but a falling arrow would answer their purpose just as well.  It is needless to relate that all possible haste was made for our train, ten miles away.  Of course our story was rather doubted by the other boys, and we were joshed about the scalps we didn't take.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Somewhere in the Western part of Iowa we passed the grave of the Indian Chief, Black Hawk, of Black Hawk War fame.  It was near the bank of a small stream, the name of which I've forgotten.  We had a little mishap here in rafting the stream.  Our raft was going along nicely when in some way the wagon went to the bottom of the river, out of sight.  The stream was sluggish, and we didn't have much difficulty in fishing the wagon out.  Fortunately the load had been transferred to another wagon, but we did have one load damaged on another occasion when the wagon turned over crossing a stream.  This was quite serious, as three barrels of hard bread were entirely ruined.</P>
148.sgm:<P>About twenty miles from the Missouri River we came to the winter quarters of the Mormon excursion of 1846 and 1847.  There was no one there, but we secured a Mormon Guide Book, and it proved of great assistance.  They had measured the roads, and distances from camp to camp were recorded.  The entire distance from the winter quarters to Salt Lake City was a thousand and thirty-one miles, and but two houses in the entire distance.  These were at Fort Lorima and Fort Bridger.</P>
148.sgm:<P>At the first fort there were twenty soldiers, and at the latter only Bridger and some Indians.  I just mention a little incident here.  Several of us boys had gone ahead of the train and were enjoying ourselves asking Bridger questions.  He was an old montaineer and could give us good advice.  While we were talking, Indians began to pour in from different quarters, very much excited and saying Indians were coming.  Everybody hustled around, the Indians flocked in, the doors were barred, rifles made ready for the scrap, when a pack train hove in sight.  It was an emigrant train from Arkansaw, and being the first one from that direction, from a distance, it was natural to infer they were Indians.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Things like this and happenings of interest, made the time pass rapidly.  Soon after passing Wood River we came into the buffalo country.  Here we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<P>There were many different classes of wolves to be seen on the prairies: the common prairie wolf, the gray, the black and another, a large long-legged wolf, the latter being found always near the herds of buffalo and was a constant terror to the calves.  While the herds were travelling the cows and calves always kept the center with the bulls on the outside, affording protection against the Buffalo Rangers, as these wolves were called.  These wolves were ferocious, and a band of them would attack men, if hungry.</P>
148.sgm:<P>On one occasion some of the boys were out and away from the train, when a hard rain storm overtook them at night fall.  They sought shelter under a bank seven to eight feet in height, all loaded with the choicest of buffalo meat, the tongues and the hump.  In a short time they were attacked by a band of these Buffalo Rangers (wolves).  They would have surrounded the boys had it not been for the bank on one side, as it was they attacked from every side and came so close the boys had to poke them away with their guns.  There were five boys, and they fought the wolves all night long, as shooting them had no effect at all, and when daylight came and the wolves sneaked away.  They had left the imprint of their teeth in the gun barrels that could be seen very distinctly.  The boys were glad enough to get back to camp and good and hungry after their night's fight.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We did not lack for amusements; we had some very good musicians in our company and almost every night we had a dance around the camp fire.  To avoid confusion one-half wore handkerchiefs on their heads, so there was no trouble telling the girls from the boys, for out of the fifty wagons that started there was not a single woman in the crowd.  During the emigration of forty-nine, I think the average of women was about one in five hundred, so our chances for being bachelors was pretty good for a number of years.  I know I roamed about for twenty years before I found my mate, and have never regretted the waiting.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The cholera was bad that year.  We passed trains every day laying by on account of cholera.  Many died along the Platte River.  I had it myself after passing Fort Larima, but we lost only one night and a half a day on my account, though the slightest jolt of the wagon created intense suffering, but I had started for California, and I was bound to come through.  I am satisfied that there were many people who died with fever as well as with cholera, for, once attacked death seemed certain.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Many amusing incidents happened every day hardly worth recording.  In the evenings, many times friendly Indians came into camp numbering thirty or forty.  Sometimes they brought things to trade, and then again they begged for food.  Indians seem to be hungry at all times.  One evening, while the Indians were in camp, a man with false teeth went up to them smiling a most pleasing smile and showing his beautiful white teeth.  He would turn around, grin at them again, this time showing his gums.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>Along the Platte River we found the corpses of Indians, well wrapped in bark and tied to the limbs of trees with bark.  This was the custom of the Pawnees, but after we got further on the plains there were no trees, in fact no trees for five hundred miles.  So we had no fuel, and had to use the buffalo chips, which, if dry, made a very hot fire.  Just before camping time we each of us took a sack, scattered out and came back to camp with sacks full, having a generous supply for cooking our supper and breakfast.  But if the rain came on, our much prized chips would not burn at all, and we had to be content with hard tack and raw bacon, and no hot coffee for breakfast.</P>
148.sgm:<P>It was well nigh impossible to measure distance by the eye, objects that appeared close to, would often prove to be days travel away.  A party of us started for Chimney Rock, and as it seemed a short distance away we started early in the morning.  We walked fast until after noon, and then seemed no nearer, so we held a council and came to the conclusion to retrace our steps, arriving at camp tired and hungry.  There being no settlements and no smoke the atmosphere was as clear as could be.  I think we sighted Pikes Peak, over two hundred miles away, and it seemed as if we should never pass it.</P>
148.sgm:<P>On the Black Hills we came into the Crow Indian country, but we never saw one.  They were not friendly to the whites, and when an Indian is not friendly you never see them in their own country.  We came to the Show-shu-nees Tribe, or Snake, as they were sometimes called, but they disliked the name, Snake.  They were friendly to us.  At one time my chum and I slipped away, and visited their camp and they treated us royally.  The chief's wife talked good English, and we were shown all through the camp, there being over five hundred in number.  They had many pets, both birds and beasts.  We were invited to go with them on a buffalo hunt, and I should have enjoyed it, but all my possessions were with the train, so we remained only the day.  But this was long enough to worry the older men of the party, especially the father of my chum, and all thought we had been murdered by the Indians.</P>
148.sgm:<P>About four to six weeks later, as I was walking in the streets of Salt Lake City, I heard a horse galloping behind me, and here was the same Indian Chief, and he appeared to be tickled to see me, as a boy with his first toy.  His wife on her pony appeared equally glad.  She had been educated at some mission, and so had acquired English.</P>
148.sgm:<P>All up the Platte River, and well into the Black Hills, we had many thunder storms; the lightning seemed to strike all around us, and sometimes very near.  On one occasion we came to a team of four yoke of oxen, hitched to a wagon in regular order, and every one dead, having been struck by lightning.  This must have been a terrible misfortune to the owners.</P>
148.sgm:<P>There were all kinds of disagreements and quarrels over trivial matters, and the only way of settling the difficulty would be to make a division of property.  The wagon would be cut in two, one party taking the front and the other the hind part, dividing the team and provisions, and each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>We were very much over-loaded and in consequence the cattle could not stand the strain, and grew weaker day by day.  So hundreds of pounds of the finest bacon, beans, flour and sugar were left on the wayside.  The bacon was piled like cordwood, and some of the men poured turpentine on the provisions and set fire to them, so the Indians couldn't eat them.  Some men seem to be born mean, but to me such meanness was despicable.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Coming to the second crossing of the Platte River we found a small ferry that could accomodate but one empty wagon at a time.  The ferry was owned by every train that came along, that is a train would buy the ferry, do their crossing and then sell it to the next train that was in waiting.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We reached the river Sweet Water, a small but swift stream a distance from the Platte.  We forded without any trouble, and found the noted landmark, Independence Rock, covering an acre of ground and two hundred feet high.  It was discovered, I believe, on the Fourth of July, and so received its name.  A little further on we came to the Devils Gate, a narrow cut or gorge through the mountains like a crevice.  It was reported that no one had ever passed through its passage.  Many had started, but had to turn back.  So it was a great incentive for us to try.  A party of us started, but there was only two to complete the trip, one other fellow, who nearly lost his life, and myself.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We crossed and recrossed several times, and at one crossing he was swept down stream by the current, and under a shelving rock.  He held to the rock with his hands, his body swept under the rock by the current.  I had crossed the stream safely a little further up, and so was able to come to his rescue.  In some places we had to climb almost perpendicular walls, almost a hundred feet in height, then walk along a narrow ledge where a mountain goat would hardly venture.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I have heard of foolhardy escapades, and have often wondered how we ever managed to come through with our lives, but luck must have been wiht us, for it makes me shudder even now to think of the danger we were constantly in.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Passing up the Sweet Water for quite a distance, then turning to our right we travelled up a long gentle grade for almost twenty miles, where we came to the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains.  There we camped on a large flat, finding many springs, the water from these springs taking their course to either side, some to the Atlantic and some to the Pacific Ocean.  We had heavy frosts, and some ice and this was in the latter part of July.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Travelling on we came to the Little and Big Sandy Rivers, where the roads forked, one leading to Ft. Hall, and the other to Salt Lake.  Here a discussion arose as to the proper course to take.  We argued the advantages and disadvantages, and the result was a natural one, a disagreement.  We parted company, each man choosing his company to travel in, so all were entirely satisfied.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Our next stream of any size was Green River, where we ferried again.  The Mormons owned the ferry and charged five dollars a wagon; this was a regular gold mine for them, for the travel was heavy.  We had to swim the cattle as before, but happily lost none.  For many days we pursued our way; nothing transpiring of note beyond the usual occurrences found on the plains.  We reached Emigrant Canyon shortly, a canyon that required six <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>At this juncture we were approaching Salt Lake City, so three of us decided to forge ahead of the train.  When we reached the first bench or table land we saw spread out before us the city itself, and in the greater distance the Great Lake.  When we reached the first little farm our attention was attracted to the garden, full of vegetables of all kinds.  How our mouths watered at this welcome sight.  We approached the house, asked for accommodations.  They made excuses about sleeping quarters, but that didn't trouble us, as we could sleep anywhere out of doors, if one could just have a meal or so.  We kept our eyes on the garden, and were willing and glad to help in the preparation of the vegetables.  No one knows how willing we were to pod the peas.  We had green corn, peas and other vegetables, something we had longed and starved for four months.  Never before or since have I tasted anything that was so good, and we ate and ate until we could eat no more, and only felt sorry that our capacity was so limited.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We were up bright and early getting peas ready for breakfast.  This was a regular bonanza for us, and our bill was only fifty cents each.  It was well worth five dollars to us if worth a cent.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Four miles distant lay the city, and a smart walk soon brought us in, where we inquired for a good camping place for the train which had not yet arrived.  We soon found a suitable place, convenient to water and grass, the two most essential features for a camping place.  We camped between the city and Jordan River, as all emigrants had to camp on that side of the city.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Our train arrived the same day and we were soon surrounded by the Mormons, principally women enquiring for tea, and if we had any to sell.  They seemed to be as much starved for tea as we were for vegetables.  We wouldn't sell tea, but we said we would trade for vegetables.  Tea was three dollars a pound, and we could get vegetables a week for a pound of tea.  Some of the women said they had not tasted tea for two years past.  They were also short of groceries and wearing apparel.  Many women were entirely barefooted, and many scantily dressed.  All the clothes had been practically worn out, as there had been no supplies brought in for two years, consequently many of them were greatly in need of the luxuries of life.  They had seeds and plenty of cattle with them, so they were well provided with the substantials, all having good gardens, beef, milk and butter.</P>
148.sgm:<P>They raised wheat and ground their own flour, but had no way to bolt it, so had to live on unbolted flour.  The women were doing mens' work in the fields, pulling up the wheat and thrashing it with flails, they having no harvesting implements, as they were yet very scarce.  We saw other women with their three or four yoke of oxen and team going into the canyon, a distance of twelve miles, and bringing down loads of wood.  There were no men on the load, and perhaps there would be two or three women to handle the team.  After seeing the scheme of things I didn't wonder so much they advocated the plurality of wives, the advantages were so great.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I became tired of camp life in a few days and decided a change was good for me, so found board with a family named Smithson.  There was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>I stayed with these people a week, then boarded with one of the elders of the church who already had two wives, and had his eyes on a third, a young grass widow, but she said she wouldn't be number three to the best man living.  I boarded with the elder's family during the remainder of my stay in Salt Lake.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The officers of the Church consisted of a Prophet, 12 Apostles, and seventy elders, then come the teachers, and so on down to the laymen.  They believe in baptizing for the dead, that is the living can be baptized for any relative who had passed away, and that by immersion.</P>
148.sgm:<P>One old lady came near being drowned, for she was trying to save seventy that had gone before.  One reason why I had gone to board with the elder was to learn what I could of the Mormon people.  The women would talk more than the men, and through them I learned many things.  I found none of them were exactly happy, and would enjoy getting away, but such a thing was impossible at that time.  They were there, and there they had to remain.</P>
148.sgm:<P>In speaking of the officers of the Church, I forgot the Angels.  The destroying Angels, whose duty it is to put away all undesirable beings.  I have often thought these destroying Angels might have had a great deal to do with the Mountain Meadow Massacre.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Salt Lake is well situated in the valley with gently rising ground to the foothills.  The streets were wide and had running water in ditches through them.  The buildings were mostly of logs, and in the center of the town was what might be termed a fort.  The log cabins were built in a hollow square, enclosing two acres of ground, and at different intervals were gates; this no doubt being for defense in time of Indian troubles.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The Mormons became friends of all the Indians in that country and any Indian you met always said, "Mormonee, Mormonee, heap good Mormon."</P>
148.sgm:<P>We hired teams to take us to the Lake, about twenty miles away.  The water is so impregnated with salt you could wade out to your armpits and then be raised right off your feet.  One can walk along through the water without sinking any deeper, and a nap on the surface is not an impossibility.  The water is very clear, so clear you can see the pebbles in the bottom at twenty feet.  Along the shore was tons of salt, just winrows of it two or three feet deep.  We spent the day there, and on the return trip stopped at a good camping place, where we refreshed ourselves with a few hours sleep, and then proceeded on our way to camp, arriving about sunrise next day.</P>
148.sgm:<P>On Sundays we heard Brigham Young preach.  They held services in what they called their Tabernacle.  It was made by planting posts in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>During the first twenty minutes of the sermon, Brigham Young lectured them roundly on things to do and not to do, something on this line: "Some of you hang around the Emigrant wagons and fool your time away, and by and by tithing day will come and you won't have a--cent to pay your tithing, and as for the Emigrant, so long as they are here, obey our laws and regulations they are welcome to stay, but when they don't they can go to hell and be--.  We don't care for them anyway; look at this pulpit.  My new vest is worn out already on these rough boards.  Some of you might think I am swearing, but I am not, for when I swear I swear in the name of the Lord, therefore this is not swearing."</P>
148.sgm:<P>Maybe it wasn't swearing, but it sounded much like cursing.  However he could say what he pleased to his people, and they come home from church mightily pleased that some one had caught it, and never taking any of the lectures for themselves.</P>
148.sgm:<P>A party of us thought we should like to prospect in the Washutt Mountains, so ten of us left about ten o'clock at night, quietly, as we didn't want the Mormons to know anything of our intentions.  We went up to the little Cotton Wood Canyon, reaching the mouth of the canyon about daylight.  At the entrance we saw two men on horse back about half a mile distant, one on each side of the canyon, watching us.  We travelled hard all day and camped at night good and tired.  The majority turned back next morning, and about a quarter of a mile away found a camp-fire still burning, but no one in sight.  Whoever followed us evidently thought we had turned back, and they did also.  We were out five or six days, following up the creek to its source, in fact went clear to the summit of the mountain, but we ran out of grub and for three days had nothing to eat but chipmonks, at least what little there was left after shooting them with a rifle.  We saw tracks of larger game, possibly elk, but none of us had ever seen any elk, and so did not know their tracks.  Since being in California, and familiar with elk tracks I think there must have been elk in that country.  Our prospecting didn't amount to anything, as we knew nothing of prospecting.  We might not have been sure of gold had we seen it lying loose in the ground.  Since that the Emmas mine and other rich mines have been worked and millions taken right out of the ground we passed over at the mouth of the canyon.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The boys of our crowd met us with a pack horse loaded with food, and you can imagine how the food disappeared, after being without for three or four days.  While on the summit of the mountains we had a snow storm, and this in September.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The Mormons were all fond of dancing, and fortunately I was invited to several of the parties.  Brigham Young always led off with the fairest in the assemblage, and it was always considered an honor to be chosen by Brother Brigham, as he was styled.  In build Brigham Young was very much like Theo. Roosevelt.  He was a very good speaker, but no orator, but he shone as a leader.  His people would do everything he proposed, and his control seemed to reign over them.  I have been often asked how many wives he had, and all I have to judge by was the sleeping apartments.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>The warm springs were there at that time, in an open plain and we all thoroughly enjoyed the bathing.  One day there was a dozen of us enjoying our bath when along came a wagon, drove up to almost thirty paces of us and the driver asked if we didn't know this was the ladies bath day.  We told him we were entirely ignorant, and would immediately get into our clothes and give them full possession.  Which we did.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Many Mormons had been to California and returned with gold from the mines, and had it coined at Salt Lake into five dollar gold pieces.  On one side was printed the All Seeing Eye, and on the other side the Bee Hive.  But most of the currency consisted of shin plasters written on paper and signed by Brigham, and circulated only amongst themselves, for all things bought from emigrants was paid for in gold coin.  The gold was soft, no alloy being used, so lasted but a short time.</P>
148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>We commenced to think of leaving, and inquired the best route out.  The Mormons told us of the Donner party being snowed in in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and that it was too late now for us to undertake any route but the Southern route.  This sounded plausible to us, but there was a motive back of this that we didn't comprehend.  The Southern route was the old Santa Fe trail, and it was policy for them to have a travelled trail to the coast, rather than go back to the Mississippi or Missouri Rivers for supplies.</P>
148.sgm:<P>About the latter part of September we started the organization of a company, and by the first of October we had gathered one hundred and five wagons, and a guide, a Mormon, who claimed to know the road well, and he did prove to be competent.  Our contract with the guide, Captain Hunt, called for a thousand dollars to Los Angeles, or ten dollars a wagon.  As soon as the wagons were in readiness, the start was made on the first day of October, from a place called Provo, where we congregated, fifty miles from Salt Lake.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We were divided into seven divisions, each division had a captain, and a name coined to suit the fancy of the division.  Some of them were "Bug Smashers", "Buck Skins", "Wolverine", "Hawk Eye", etc.  The one to which I belonged was styled the "Jay Hawkers of Forty Nine", the party that plays the prominent part in this narrative.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Every day we took turns leading the train as it was styled.  That is, the division that led the train one day fell into the rear next day, for the leader always had the hardest work, for the road had to be broken.  The first part of the journey was through the sage brush, and proved difficult traveling, and with such a large company we made but a few miles a day.  The trail was over low rolling hills covered with scrub cedars, and somewhat sandy soil in places.  The grass and water became scarcer every day, but we managed fairly well until we passed Little Salt Lake, where three Mormons made their appearance on horseback.  The leader and spokesman said his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<illus entity="a148-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>L. DOW STEPHENS AND HIS BIRTH-PLACE IN NEW JERSEY, BUILT BY HIS FATHER IN 1816.  THE MASSIVE PINE TREE IN THE FOREGROUND WAS PLANTED THE SAME YEAR.  THE AUTHOR WAS BORN HERE ON SEPTEMBER 29, 1827.</P>
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148.sgm:<P>He had the road all mapped out and a diagram showing the camping places, about fifteen miles between.  Naturally we fell into a discussion, for the road would terminate at the mines, instead of Los Angeles.  Meeting after meeting was held, and all the advantages of the cut-off were discussed.  In the meantime we had reached what is now known as the Iron Mountain.  I think that I with one of the others was the discoverer of this mountain of iron.  After camping we strolled up the mountain, and the rocks were noticeable for their weight and their positions.  They lay in masses and had a metallic ring to them.  I took one into camp, and showed it to a professor we had with us and he pronounced it iron.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We camped next at Mountain Meadows, a place that afterwards became known as the scene of Mountain Meadow Massacre, of 1857.  I looked this up in Bancroft's History of Utah, and this is what he says: "It was Saturday evening when the Arkansas families encamped at Mountain Meadows.  On the Sabbath they rested, and conducted divine services in a large tent, as had been their custom throughout the journey.</P>
148.sgm:<P>"At daybreak on the seventh of September, while the men were lighting their camp fires, they were fired upon by the Indians, or white men disguised as Indians, and more than twenty were killed, or wounded.</P>
148.sgm:<P>"Their cattle had been driven off by their assailants under the cover of darkness.  The survivors ran for their wagons and pushing them together so as to form a corral, dug out the earth deep enough to sink them almost to the top of the wheels.  In the center of the enclosure they made a rifle pit large enough to contain the entire company.  The attacking party which numbered from three to four hundred, withdrew to the hills on the crest of which they built parapets, where they shot down all who showed themselves outside the entrenchments.</P>
148.sgm:<P>"The emigrants were now in a state of siege and though they fought bravely had little hope of escape.  All the outlets of the valley were guarded, their ammunition was almost exhausted.  Of their number, which included a large proportion of women and children, many were wounded and their suffering from thirst had become intolerable.  Down in a ravine and within a few yards of a corral was a stream of water, but only after sundown could there be a scanty supply obtained, and then at great risk, for the point was covered by the muskets of the Indians who lurked all night among the ravines.</P>
148.sgm:<P>"Four days the siege lasted.  On the morning of the fifth a wagon was seen approaching from the northern end of the meadow, and with it a company of the Royal Legions.  When within a few hundred yards of the entrenchments the company halted and one of them, William Bateman by name, was sent forward with a flag of truce.  In answer to this signal a little girl dressed in white appeared in an open space between the wagons, half way between the Mormons and the corral.</P>
148.sgm:<P>"Bateman was met by one of the emigrants named Hamilton, to whom he promised protection for his party on condition that their arms were surrendered, assuring him they would be conducted in safety to Cedar City.  After a brief parley each one returned to comrades.  By whose order the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>"Thus far the evidence is contradictory.  There is sufficient proof however, that in accordance with a program previously arranged at Cedar, a company of militia, among whom were the Legion of Honor, and Major Higley, and which was afterwards joined by Col. William H. Dame, Bishop of Cedar City, arrived at Lees camp on the evening before the massacre.  It was then arranged that Lee should conclude terms with the emigrants, and as soon as they had delivered themselves into their power the Mormons should start for Hannibal's Ranch on the eastern side of the Meadows with the wagons, arms, the young children, and the sick and wounded.  The men and women, the latter in front, were to follow the wagons all in single file.  On each side of them the militia were to be marched two deep with twenty paces between their lines.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Within two hundred yards of the camp the men were to be brought to a halt until the women approached a copse of scrub oak about a mile distant and near to where the Indians lay in ambush.  The men were now to resume their march.  The militia forming into single file, each one walking beside of an emigrant and carrying his musket on his left arm.  As soon as the women were close to the ambuscade, Higley, who was in charge of the detachment, was to give the signal by saying to his command, "Do your duty"; whereupon the militia were to shoot down the men, the Indians were to slaughter the women and children, sparing only those of tender age.  Lee, with some of the wagons, were to butcher the sick and wounded.  Mounted troopers were to be in readiness to pursue and slay any of those who attempted to escape, so that with the exception of infants no living soul should be left to tell the tale of the massacre.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The last victim was a little girl who came running up to the wagons covered with blood a few minutes after the disabled men had been murdered.  She was shot down within sixty yards of where Lee was standing.  The massacre was now completed and after stripping the bodies of all articles of value Brother Lee and his associates went to breakfast, returning, after a hearty meal, to bury the dead.</P>
148.sgm:<P>There is one more item I must not overlook.  After they were all slain an Indian came across two girls hidden in the brush and brought them before Lee and asked Lee what was to be done with them.  Lee replied they were too old to keep, and the Indians said they were too pretty to kill.  Then Lee said "obey orders", and the Indian shot one of the girls, and Lee cut the throat of the other.</P>
148.sgm:<P>It takes too much space to give in detail all the horrors of this massacre, but to sum it up, according to the best information obtainable, a hundred and twenty lives were taken, and seventeen children between the ages of two months and seven years, were spared from the butchery.</P>
148.sgm:<P>According to the evidence, the Mormons and the Indians divided the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>Almost a day out from Mountain Meadow we came to the point where the road left the main trail.  A halt was called, and Captain Hunt said those who wished to go with him could do so, and he would guide them to safety.  The result was that out of the hundred and five wagons there was only seven that accompanied him.  When we started on Captain Hunt called out to us "boys if you undertake that route you will go to hell."</P>
148.sgm:<P>I know now he knew whereof he spoke.  He had had considerable desert experience, and we none.  He realized these three men were fakes, sent out by the Church for a purpose, but to tell us so would mean the loss of his life.  Brigham and the church wanted a short route to the Pacific Coast, and here was the opportunity of having that route prospected.  Counting the toll in lives was a nominal consideration.</P>
148.sgm:<P>But the train moved on, notwithstanding Captain Hunt telling us where we would land.  After two days travel we came to a bluff, seemingly a thousand feet to the bottom, and straight up and down.  A small stream flowed at the bottom, and by using ropes and buckets we could get enough for camp use, using it sparingly.  The oxen had to go without, and after a couple of days prospecting a greater part of the train turned back to take up Captain Hunt's trail.  But the "Jay Hawkers of '49" said they had started on this trail, and would follow it or leave their bones on the way.</P>
148.sgm:<P>After reconnoitering we found, by taking a circuitous route, we could get the whole division, with the exception of two wagons.  Others followed, but the "Jay Hawkers" took the lead, and kept it, and followed as direct a Western course as possible, turning aside for the low passes in the mountains.  There was no solid range of mountains to cross, but rather a series of broken ranges where we crossed the passes at quite high altitudes.  Thus week after week passed with scarcely any grass, and oxen becoming weaker from day to day, and then the distances were so great between water places.  When water was found it seemed impossible to use it, being so blackish.</P>
148.sgm:<P>On one occasion we had gone five days without water, but through a kind Providence on the third night a snow came.  About two or three inches fell, but before the ground was barely covered we were all out gathering the snow to melt, and before the storm had passed we had ample supply for ourselves and oxen.  No doubt this is what saved many of us, for we never reached water for two days more.  It became a cause of anxiety, whether we would ever reach the next watering place or not.  It became the custom toward the last to send out men to prospect for water, and if water was found a smoke was made, as in this desert country smoke could be seen a great distance.</P>
148.sgm:<P>From day to day our cattle became weaker and weaker, and our provisions were getting low.  So we were put on short allowance.  Finally the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>On Christmas day, 1849, we were all busy making pack saddles, and cooking the scanty supply of flour into little biscuits, or crackers, as they were perfectly hard.  We were divided into twos, from eight men to two men mess, and each one had his share allotted to him.  We had a half dozen of the little crackers, about three or four spoonfuls of rice, and about as much dried apples, and this ended the bill of fare, which must last until we reached settlements.</P>
148.sgm:<P>California seemed a long way off.  We did not know where we were, but I know we were much further off than we realized.  The proposition now became a single one, for we just had to subsist on the oxen, and they had become so poor there was little or no nourishment in their flesh, as they were dying then from starvation.</P>
148.sgm:<P>As soon as an ox fell he was butchered, everything saved, especially the blood.  We did not know where we were and we realized that the strictest economy must prevail.  We even boiled the hide and it became partially tender.  When we left Salt Lake we had two teams of four yoke of oxen to each, and only eight men, with what we considered ample provisions.  Captain Hunt had told us of the distance to Los Angeles, and if we had remained with him we would have had abundance.  When we killed an ox we cut the meat into strips, and dried it over a fire, during the night, so it would be ready to pack next day.  We found little patches of grease wood, the only thing that grew in the desert, and this was of a very scrubby variety at best.  It grew not more than two feet high, of the size of a finger, still, by searching diligently we could secure enough to answer our needs in camp.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Here is where Rev. J. W. Brier and family came up to us and wanted to travel with us.  At first we objected, as we didn't want to be encumbered with any women, but we hadn't the heart to refuse.  So they joined the "Jay Hawkers", and the little woman proved to be as plucky and brave as any woman that ever crossed the plains, either before or since.  They had three small boys, about six or eight years old.  When the smallest got too tired tramping he was placed on the back of an ox for a change.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I will state here that the only survivor of the family is now living at Lodi, California, the mother dying last May in her hundredth year.  There were others who came to our camp, one was a company of Georgians, about fifteen of them.  The next day we saw snow on the mountains in the distance, and we know if we could reach the pass through the mountains we would find water, so we started straight for it.  But the Georgians hugged the foot of the mountain, in hopes of finding water in the canyon.  They found no water, but did find a silver mine, of almost pure silver.  I saw a piece they melted and made a gun-sight of.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Since writing the above J. W. Brier, Jr., has died, leaving only three of us left out of the original number of "Jay Hawkers" of thirty-nine.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Thousand and thousands of dollars have been spent trying to find the gun-sight lead.  Governor Lore of Nevada fitted out several expeditions to try to find it, but it never has been located.  I was offered all kinds of money in California to go back and hunt for it, but I never had the least inclination to accept.</P>
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148.sgm:<P>Captain Townshend who seemed to be the head man of the Georgia company, took the company through on another route.  They packed their provisions on their backs, and were better supplied than we were, as they still had some flour of which they gave a portion to the Brier family.  They succeeded in getting through Walkers Pass, on to the head of Kern River, then into San Joaquin Valley and to Chowchilla River, where they were nearly all murdered by the Indians.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I believe there were but two who escaped.  Another party of eleven men passed who thought they could make it by packing on their backs enough to last them.  They had killed their oxen, dried the meat and packed what they could, and out of the eleven there was but two to finish the trip, the others having died, in a pile.  These two would have died also had it not been they disagreed on the route to travel, and stole away in the night.</P>
148.sgm:<P>In 1864 I was travelling down Owens River Valley, below Owens Lake, and at a place now known as Indian Wells there came a man in from the Slate Range of Mountains.  In the conversation he told me that some of his party in prospecting had come across the remains of nine men all together behind a little barricade of brush.  They had probably built a wind brake, and had died right there from thirst.  I made him promise that he would see the remains properly buried upon his return.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Speaking of thirst, there is no punishment that has any comparison.  It is the most agonizing suffering possible and the feeling is indescribable.  Our tongues would be swollen, our lips crack, and a crust would form on our tongue and roof of mouth that could not be removed.  The body seemed to be dried through and through, and there wouldn't be a drop of moisture in the mouth, at these times we thought of Barney Ward, and I just can't imagine what we would have done to him had we had him near.</P>
148.sgm:<P>So day by day we pursued our way, our cattle and ourselves growing weaker and weaker.  The outlook was gloomy, and often when we killed a steer we looked forward to the marrow found in the bones.  But in breaking the bones often there would be nothing there but a little bloody substance, and I suppose our bones were much in the same condition, as we had becomes as starved as they were.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Another party, called the Bennett party, tried a little different route from ours.  They struck off South from us on the other side of the mountain.  I didn't know the number in the party, but there were two families of Bennetts, and Arcane, and each had a wife, but no children.  There may have been ten or a dozen altogether.  They called a halt and sent two of their number, Lewis Manly and John Rogers, on to the settlements for supplies and pack animals.  They thought the trip there and back wouldn't take more than two weeks, but they were gone five, and those behind gave up all hope and resigned themselves to their fate.  About this time the boys returned, and when within a few hundred yards of camp found one lying dead.  They saw no sign of life in the camp, and gave the rest up for dead.  A few minutes later they heard a feeble cry, "there they are, the boys, I knew they would come back," the women said, and such a rejoicing as there was.  Manly says in his book that he wrote later, that when he came upon the dead man lying there, his heart stood still, and that never would he go through moments of such misery again for all the money in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>It became a great task now to save our oxen.  We had used all the iron shoes, and had to depend upon moccasins for the oxen as well as for ourselves.  We made them from the hides, but some of the country was so rough with rock, sharp as flint, that every day new moccasins had to be put on the oxen.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We finally reached Death Valley, where we lost two men, Fish and Isham, who were of the Brier party.  One of our party went out hunting water, Deacon Richards by name.  Previdentially he found a spring, just about dusk.  He gave the usual sign and from that time up until midnight the company came staggering in, but in the morning we found two missing.  We took water and started back and found them dead within a hundred yards of each other.  We named the spring Providence Spring, and it retains its name to this day.  It was always so when water was found, the strongest came in first, and the weakest was last.  Those first in returned to help the others, and so long as they kept their courage there was hope, but just as soon as they gave up a little they wouldn't last long.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I remember one incident relating to this and that was the case of Captain Asa Haines.  He was quite elderly compared with the rest of us, probably sixty years of age.  He would remark, "Boys, if I only had the corn that my hogs at home are rooting in the mud I would consider it the greatest luxury imaginable," and then would cry like a baby.  A few days later he said to us, "Boys, I feel that I can't go any further and I'll have to leave you".  I knew then that he would die soon, and told my mess-mate, Bill Rude, that Captain Haines would not live until morning.  We had each saved two or three of our little biscuits and a couple of spoonfuls of rice.  I told Bill I was willing to give all I had to Asa Haines if he would.  So we took the last morsel we had saved, made a kind of stew of it and carried this to Haines.  He said, "Boys, you have saved my life", and we knew we had.  It did us more good, yes ten times over, than if we had eaten it ourselves.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We all thought a great deal of the Captain, and I have never felt so satisfied in my life with a deed, as I did in knowing that I was the means of helping to save a valuable life.  He remained in California a short time, and returned to Illinois, where he lived not more than three miles from my father's house.  Father wrote me that Captain Haines often came to the house and told him that his son saved his life in California.  Bill Rude was also a neighbor of his, and thought a great deal of him.  He felt that we could get to California and a few spoonfuls of food to us was nothing compared to a human life.</P>
148.sgm:<P>From Providence Springs we crossed the range of mountains, and going down the other side, one of the best oxen went over the cliff and broke his back.  We had to stop and make him into jerky.  It seemed only a short distance across to the snow mountains that loomed up in sight, but the remainder of that day and the next went by before we came to water, which has since been known as Indian Wells, owing to the water being in holes or wells.</P>
148.sgm:<P>At this camp Manly and Rogers saw our light and thought us Indians, until they heard my voice and they then knew we were "Jay Hawkers".  They came into camp and were made welcome to all we had.  We struck a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>Manly and Rogers next morning took the trail and hurried, as they were anxious to make the trip and get back to their company.  We travelled two more days, and then the trail ran right into an immense desert and we could scarcely see the mountains beyond.  If the trail had not led that way we never would have thought of facing such a dreary outlook.  In after years I found this was the Mohave Desert.  Going on we found an immense lot of bones all along the trial.  After two days of travel we came to a spring right in the middle of the desert.  There was quite a patch of willows growing around the water, and plenty water for our use, although it ran but a few rods and then sank into the sand.  While here we killed another ox, and prepared the meat for jerky.</P>
148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>It proved to be a long way to the mountains, for we were three days and nights making the trip.  Our progress was slow, and there was much suffering.  Many could travel but a few hundred yards at a time, and so the weaker ones were hours behind in getting into camp.  When water was found the smoke was made and this would put new life and energy into the weak ones.  One man named Robinson, had become so weak we had to put him on a poor little mule we had.  He said in the morning he couldn't make it, but we thought he could on the mule.  When within thirty or forty steps of the camp fire he fell off.  We tried to assist him, but he begged to be left alone, saying he would come when rested.  About fifteen minutes later, as he hadn't come in, we went to get him and found him dead.  The next morning we buried him as best we could, for the ground was hard and rocky and we only had our knives to dig with, and our hands to throw out the dirt.  At this same camp a Frenchman, his name not known, became insane and after wandering away was captured by the Indians and kept a slave for fourteen years.  He was finally rescued by a United States surveying party and brought to the settlements.</P>
148.sgm:<P>At this watering place the trail seemed to be obliterated and from here we ascended a long hill, or divide, and after crossing saw a brook with running water, the first we had seen for months.  It looked good to us, and we concluded it must empty into the Pacific Ocean, which was correct, for this proved to be the headwaters of the Santa Clara River that empties into the ocean near San Buena Ventura.  Here we found timber and signs of game, --the tracks of a grizzly bear where we had crossed the creek.  Three of us started after him, and followed the tracks till dark.  We camped on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>The next game we came across, was an old mare and two colts, a yearling and a two-year-old.  Ed Doty and Bill Rude happened to be ahead and got all three of them.  We camped right there and built a fire and went to eating.  I thought I never had eaten anything that tasted as good.  They had a little fat on them and that was what tasted so good to us.  We ate the old mare up that night and made jerky of the colts to pack along.  As Rev. Mr. Brier was well supplied with oxen, he kindly permitted us to pack one or two of his oxen.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Two or three days later some of the boys killed a deer, and some of us stayed back to dry the meat, and the rest went on.  Among those that stayed was old man Gould, as we called him, and he and I tried to sleep together.  We had only one single blanket between us and he wouldn't pull his boots off.  He said if he had to die he wanted to die with his boots on.  He seemed a little off in his mind, and by the way, there were two in our party who never did get entirely in their right minds again.  The next day brought us out into the most beautiful valley I ever saw in all my life, Paradise, in fact.  It was covered with thousands of cattle feeding, and they looked so fat and sleek, I never had anything that impressed me as that sight did, I felt as though I could stand there and gaze on it forever.</P>
148.sgm:<P>After coming off the desert the contrast was beyond all description.  The boys that were ahead of us, when they came to the cattle, shot three or four.  It seemed to them that each man could eat a steer.  The Spaniards heard the shooting and didn't know what to make of it, but gathered such arms and other implements as they had, and came out to where the boys were.  They did not know then what they were, as the boys were so emaciated and ragged.  In fact our boys didn't pay much attention to them, for they were too busy skinning and tearing off the fat parts of the meat and eating it just as it was.  They hadn't taken time to start a fire to cook it.  It just happened that we had a man with us that had been in the Mexican War, and he knew little Spanish.  His name was Tom Shannon.  When the Spaniards saw the condition of the company they said, "Buena Mericanas", and told them to come on down to the ranch and they would kill an animal for them there, but the boys wouldn't take any chances, and they began to load themselves with beef.  The Spaniards told them that was too much hard work.  The boys marched down to the ranch about four miles distant, and when they arrived, found a bullock already slaughtered.  The boys went at once to eating roasted meat, and eating all they could stuff.  This came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<illus entity="a148-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"THE EMIGRANT TRAIN," From a painting by Andrew P. Hill</P>
148.sgm:<illus entity="a148-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"THE JAYHAWKERS IN DEATH VALLEY," From Manly's "Death Valley in '49" THE START AND THE FINISH OF THE EMIGRANT'S JOURNEY</P>
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148.sgm:<P>We certainly were well treated.  They gave us everything they had, such as beef, corn, milk, wheat, and chilipeppers and offered us money, but of course we could not accept money, as they had been so kind.  Some of the boys had money and offered to pay for what had been furnished us, but they wouldn't take a cent.  In fact they were the most hospitable people I ever was among where the country was first settled, but that state of affairs changed after a few years.</P>
148.sgm:<P>After being at this ranch for a day or two, we thought we would have a bath in that beautiful stream of water.  Upon removing my clothes I was actually frightened.  I found I was nothing but a skeleton.  My thighs were not larger than my arm, and the knee joints were like knots on a limb, and on my hip bone the skin was calussed as thick as sole leather and just as hard, caused by lying on the hard ground and rocks.  We were all of us in a pitiful condition, hardly fit subjects for a picture show.  After recuperating a few days at the ranch we began to try to make arrangements for getting on to the mines.  Some went one way and some another, and some came up by water from San Pedro, which was a very wise thing to do.</P>
148.sgm:<P>But we all did not have the money to do that, and I was one of that number, so, instead of starting up the Coast via San Buena Ventura, I went to Los Angeles to take a start from there.  I was only there three or four days, when I found an opportunity to come along with a couple of men who were buying up pack mules.  I could travel with them if I could furnish my own saddle and help drive the mules.  So I paid four dollars for a saddle tree, or what the Spaniards call a busta.  This left me with only a dollar.  Everything went well enough until we arrived at Santa Barbara.  I had been in the habit of taking the mules out to graze every morning as soon as it was light enough, so at Santa Barbara I did the same thing, but it happened to be a cold stormy morning, and rain poured down.  I had no coat, just a woolen shirt, and no vest, and the mules were very hard to manage.  They wanted to travel with the storm in spite of all I could do.  Time went on and I kept getting colder and colder.  Ten o'clock came, and no relief party hove in sight as had been the custom up to that time, but I supposed it was a little too stormy for them to turn out.  And the longer I waited and the more I thought of it, the madder I got.  I gave the mules a good scare, and they went a flying, and I turned and broke for shelter.  By this time we had drifted with the storm about four miles, and I had to face the storm going back.  When I entered the dining room where the pair were smoking their pipes by a good warm fire, the first greeting I got was "Where are those mules gone to?"  Then I let loose on them and don't know what I told them, but it wasn't anything very pretty.  There was a large butcher knife lying on the table near by and I kept my eye on that and was careful to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>At one place a tree had fallen across the road, and had been partially cut away, but when I attempted to pass, the tree stove in the end gate of the wagon.  There was but one thing to do and that was to cut the tree off, and while I was busy doing this "Old Dallas" came up and started his abuse.  He stopped at nothing in his tirade, and I stood it as long as I could, finally starting for him, telling him he had gone too far already.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>We finally reached and passed through San Jose, about March, 1850.  The Legislature was in session here, and at this time San Jose was nothing but a Greaser settlement of adobe shanties, dives and all manner of gambling dens were running full force.  Santa Clara street ran to Third, and after that you ran into the mustard.  In fact three or four blocks from the center of town in any direction you got into the mustard, which was so thick and high it was well nigh impassable, except in the trails made by cattle.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Going towards San Jose Mission we passed two houses, the first was occupied by Mr. Vestal, about a mile from town, and in the second house Jim Murphy lived.  Just beyond the crossing of Coyote Creek some Alviso's lived near the foothills on the east side of the valley.  On the road, where Milpitas now is, there was nothing but a horse corral, and in Milpitas I built the first cabin in 1852.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Passing the Mission we came into the Livermore Valley, and Livermore himself lived there at the time and offered me work at two hundred dollars a month and board.  He had a building he wanted done, but we passed on.  We reached the San Joaquin Plains, and they looked very beautiful, for at this time they were covered with wild flowers, and were level as far as eye could see.  The plains resembled the Illinois prairies more than anything I had seen on the whole trip.  There were bands of wild horses, or mustangs as they were called, and herds and herds of elk and antelope,--there seemed to be no limit to them.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I never saw so much game in such a space of country, excepting the buffalo on the plains.  It seemed as if there was wild game enough to feed a nation.  Speaking of game, California was the best country I ever saw; one could go anywhere in the State, and find all the game he wished.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We crossed the San Joaquin River at Bounsall's ferry, just where the railroad crosses now.  The old man's heart was nearly broken when he found he had to pay a fee of ten dollars a wagon and a dollar a yoke for the oxen in order to ferry; but it was either pay or stay on that side of the river.  Fifteen miles brought us to Stockton, and on the day we arrived I had been just one year on the road, with the exception of six weeks I spent in Salt Lake.  Everything was lively in Stockton.  Buildings of all kinds were being rushed, and lumber was selling for three hundred dollars a thousand, at that time all the lumber came around the Horn, and carpenters' wages were an ounce or sixteen dollars a day.  There were many cloth houses, tents of all kinds, and shacks of every description.  Some of the better houses cost one hundred and fifty thousand dollars and over.  Freighting charges were from six to ten cents a pound to the mines.  People were flocking to the mines, some walking with their blankets strapped on their backs; some were in stages; some on mule back; but all were trying to reach the gold district.  Many came back and reported the whole thing a hoax and a failure.</P>
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148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>My first experience in mining was at Merced River, where I paid sixteen dollars for a shovel, eight dollars for a pick, fifty dollars for a rocker, four for a gold pan, and thirty-two dollars for a pair of boots.  Everything else was in proportion, and vegetables were out of the question, as I saw a man pay a dollar and a half for a single onion.</P>
148.sgm:<P>My success varied from day to day, for on one day I wouldn't make an ounce, and on others maybe two ounces or more.  The general belief was that if the bars paid so well in gold the bed of the river ought to prove a harvest.  So we formed a company to turn the river, and about twenty of us undertook the job.  An Indian squaw man, Jim Savage, had told us that his Indians had waded into the river when it was low and had taken out an ounce to the bater, or wooden bowl.  This was at the horse shoe bend of the river, and after much hard work we succeeded in turning the river, and where we expected to shovel gold, we found but ten or fifteen cents to the pan.  We found out afterwards that this man was known as the biggest liar at the mines, and later, while in a quarrel with Major Harvey, he was shot dead.  After we found out our work was all for naught we broke camp and scattered to all parts of the mines.  I drifted over on the Tuolumne River, to a place called Hurts Bar, and started work at a half ounce a day.  A company of twenty had been formed to turn the river, and one of the interested parties wished me to take his place, as he wanted to prospect.  After three or four weeks work I wanted to see some money, so the company called a miners meeting and voted me this man's share of the mine.  I knew this would hold good, as miners laws stood preeminent to all others, but the man never came back so I was never molested.  We finally turned the river and work began in earnest.  The strike was rich, and we took out gold by the pound.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Our largest day's work yielded twenty-four pounds avoirdupois weight; in Troy weight it would have amounted to 32 pounds at that time.  Hardly a day passed but what we took out eight pounds, and we were much encouraged and worked hard.  We kept three rockers running.  The largest part of the work consisted in keeping the water bailed out, and around the edge of the water was a yellow streak of gold.  It looked fine, and all went joyfully for about three weeks when the rains began unusually early.  We had no tents, nothing but brush shanties, and the rain just poured down all night.  We had to stand up around the fire with a blanket around us.  This was about the twentieth of September, and the next day about two P.M. we heard a terrible roaring of water coming down the river.  We hardly had time to get our tools out of the claim until the water was upon us.  It seemed about fifteen feet high.  There were three dams above us, and the swelling of the waters took the first when the next gave way, and so on, and by the time the water reached us it was fully fifteen feet high, and the river rose in less time than it takes to write it.  We had no dam, as we had taken the water from the other side of the river and brought it over in an aqueduct to a bar where we had a chance to extend the canal.  We had made the aqueduct of whip-sawed lumber and had brought it down off the mountain by hand.  It was about one hundred feet long, sixteen feet wide and four feet deep, and this will show the amount of work we had put into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>So far as river mining was concerned we knew the season was over, and the men began preparations to leave and go prospecting.  About this time a man came along who had owned the upper dam, with fifty-five Mexicans.  He proposed to work our mine with his Mexicans on shares.  He proposed to throw in a wing dam, and turn one half the river on the other side and give us one-third of all he took out.  Some of the men didn't have much faith, but as he was bearing all the expense, they concluded to let him go ahead.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The usual method in building wing dams is to build two walls of rocks, an outer and an inner wall, commencing at the shore, running out half way across the river, and keeping them about two feet apart.  The outer wall is made tight with canvas on the inside, and the space between the two walls is filled with sand, canvass preventing the water from washing the sand away.  This makes the dam tight.  In the same manner the walls are built down stream.  Our company were all anxious to get away, and I was asked to stay to look after the interest of the mine.  Then Jim Murrell, the man who had leased the mine, wanted me to take charge of his work, as I was going to stay anyway.  But I couldn't talk Spanish fluently, so I hesitated, but finally agreed to take charge of the work for a half ounce a day.  Jim stayed around for a day or two, and then he was off.  In fact he was a Texan gambler, and didn't give his personal attention to any work.  I didn't see anything more of him for about two weeks, and by this time I had the work well in hand, and he seemed to be much pleased with the condition of things.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I think I never had charge of a better crew of men, they worked willingly and well.  Maybe it was because they hadn't had their summer's pay as yet, but however, they seemed to take an interest, and worked splendidly.  The next time Jim came around I had commenced taking out gold, and it was just as rich as ever.  At night I had to keep close watch for fear the gold would be stolen from before my eyes.  If the gold was stolen it wasn't because I didn't keep close watch, but because they were too quick for me.  Sometimes I would have many thousands of dollars on hand and only a bush shanty for protection, then I would pack it in with one of the men and take it up to Jacksonville, where there was a store and a safe to deposit it.</P>
148.sgm:<P>This was done over and over again, the distance to Jacksonville being about two miles and a half.  We worked until December, as the season happened to be fairly dry, but soon the rain came and we ceased operations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>From there I went up to a Chinese camp about five miles distant, and took up some placer claims, about thirty feet square to a claim.  The prospects were fine.  From the grass down to the bed rock, about four feet, it paid from one bit to four bits on the bed rock.  So I commenced work, throwing up dirt for the winter's work, and making excavations to hold the water when the rain started.  I caught enough water with the first rain to wash up a few pans of dirt, netting me five dollars, but the water gave out.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I built a log cabin, the first cabin I had lived in since being in the country.  During all this time, I had never had a coat, in fact one hardly needed a coat, and it was the fashion amongst miners to go without a coat.  Early in the spring I went down on Woods Creek and worked on the bars with fair success.  It was the custom if a claim didn't pay an ounce to the man, we would abandon it, and as mining excitements were always springing up, or stampedes as they called them, we didn't stay long on a poor claim.</P>
148.sgm:<P>So I went on about one hundred and fifty miles to a new camp called Fine Gold Gulch, but before I went, I went back to the Chinese Claims to see what I could do with them.  I kept my title good by leaving tools in the hole, as that was the custom for holding a claim.  If the tools were removed the claim was supposed to be abandoned, and could be jumped.  I sold the claims for thirty dollars and with the promise if they paid more I was to have a share.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The men had gone to Stockton and bought dump carts and horses and hauled the dirt to a spring three-quarters of a mile away, and there washed out the gold, twenty-one thousand dollars by fall.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We found the Indians bad at Gold Gulch, and very little gold was found.  I stayed for two months and then left the mines in disgust and went to Stockton to work in the hay yards.  A few days later I met some boys from Illinois with whom I had gone to school.  The Gillette boys had three or four mules and wanted me to take charge of the hay bailing.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I had a chance to buy a half interest in a mule team and turned it in on work for the Gillette boys.  They paid three hundred dollars a month for ourselves and team and paid all expense.  They had a hay yard at Sonora and one at Columbia, and the hay was sold as fast as it was hauled for one hundred and fifty dollars a ton.  They had a hay yard in Stockton which I took charge of.  Adjoining this yard was a livery stable kept by Wolfe Dallas, or "Old Dallas" as we used to call him.  "Old Dallas" had a race horse that he thought pretty fast.  There was another character, Headsputh by name, who also had a race horse called the Heasputh colt, and also a fake race horse called the same name.  This fellow had the fake colt painted to resemble the race horse and kept him at Dallas' stable.  Headsputh bragged about his colt, and Dallas argued his could beat the colt.  One moonlight night, Dallas took the horses out for a trial, while <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>Dallas got all his friends in on this sure thing, and when the race was won and the genuine colt ran away with the race "Old Dallas" cried like a baby.  This about broke him, but the people didn't seem to feel sorry for him and I thought this might be payment for all his meanness.</P>
148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>Late in the fall I left Stockton for Santa Clara Valley to try farming.  I bought the other half interest in the mule team and joined a party of seven men that had leased five hundred acres.  I wasn't in partnership with them but had all the work I could do with my team.  One of the party went back East and shipped out two thrashing machines, and two McCormick reapers, which were about the first in the valley.  I was the only one in the number who understood the machines, as I had had two years experience in the East with them.  I put all the machines together, and ran them.  One of the threshers they sold to Old Jimmie Murphy and they also sold one of the reapers.  Threshing was three bits a bushel for barley.  We kept busy the entire season, until the rains forced us to stop.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Speaking about the forty thieves--by the name one would think they really were a band of theives, but from my acquaintance with most of them I took them to be honorable and upright men, at least those I knew were, such as Isaac Branham, Hon. Houghton Quivey, Capt. Aram, Chas. White, John Kearney and others who stood well in the community.  Under the Mexican Government certain lands were granted to Pueblo de San Jose in the year 1847.  The capital at that time was at Monterey but in 1849, when California became a state they began to seek a more suitable place as at that time most of the population was in the northern and central part of the state, as the mining interests predominated largely, San Jose was one of the most important places at that time, and it was selected as the proper place.  Consequently, there had to be a capitol building erected and certain ones advanced the money for the erection of the building and many other purposes also, and the Legisalture of 1849 and 1850, convened in said Pueblo at that time.  Owing to the indebtedness for the erection of the building, the commissioners or the Legislature, I am not sure which, set aside the Pueblo lands to satisfy the claimants and each one was granted five hundred acres.  It will have to be considered also that land at that time was not very valuable around San Jose.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The company I was interested with leased from White and Kearney 500 acres of this Pueblo land for farming purposes.  There were five of us interested in the venture.  I speak of it as a venture as it was not well known then, in 1851, that anything could be raised without irrigation.  That year demonstrated the fact thoroughly that farming could be done successfully here without irrigation.  While living there and seeing so much land lying about loose, the thought struck me that I might have some of it as well as not.  Believing myself to be an American citizen, I proceeded to take up and claim a hundred and sixty acres where Milpitas is now situated and built a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>Down near the San Jose Mission, there was quite a little Mormon settlement and we were reaping the Mun's crop, who was a Mormon and afterwards he bought the machine we were running while there.  Parly P. Pratt came there from Australia with a young woman that he said was his spiritual wife.  Well, she had spirit enough for two as far as spirit goes.  When we were all called in for dinner into the dining room, there was Pratt with his wife in his lap and she combing his whiskers with her fingers.  I thought it took some spirit to do that right before us all, but it may have been an evil spirit.  I will speak of Mr. Pratt later.  We proceeded with the usual routine as is generally practiced in farming operations, until the harvesting and threshing was completed and as I had no interest in the grain crop I concluded to plant potatoes and succeeded in getting fifty acres planted.  It was almost impossible to get seed potatoes to plant, so had to plant such as I could get, which proved to be very poor, just the cullings.  The consequence was they never came up only at long distances apart and the result was never a potato was dug, showing what a little thing that will prove either for or against.  If my crop had turned out well, it would have made me a fortune as they were very high that year, the price commencing at potato-digging time at four cents per pound and gradually increasing in price until they ran up to fourteen cents per pound.  The boys, having fifteen acres adjoining mine sold them at four cents a pound and netted them five thousand dollars.  My fifty acres would have brought me at the lowest price fifty thousand dollars.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Horner Down, near the Mission, had in fifteen hundred acres in potatoes that year and sold to Beard in the ground.  Beard cleared sixty thousand dollars on the deal--that was in 1852, and in 1853 they were not worth digging.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Thousands of sacks were emptied into the Bay in order to save the sacks.  Over-production was the cause and no place to ship them to.  When threshing season came on, I, as it happened, was the principal spoke in the wheel to make the machinery go, so with myself and the use of my mule team was able to earn ten dollars a day.  By the time the season closed I had earned quite a little, even if I did lose my potato crop.  It was not to be for me or I would have had it, consequently I never grieved over it.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The next venture was to go to the lower country and buy cattle.  We used to call Los Angeles, San Diego, and all that country down there, the lower country.  Some of the boys on the ranch, including myself (I think there were five of us all together) tried to get started, but it was very hard.  We stayed in San Jose for nearly a week waiting for the water to go down so we could get to Alviso to take a boat for San Francisco.  We started at 6 A.M., and we arrived at Alviso at 3 P.M.  I know I waded the bigger part of the way and carried a woman on my back.  I told her it was the only way I could carry her and it was either that or wade the same as I was doing.  There were here and there little knolls where I could let her down and get my wind for she was pretty heavy.  After some of the passengers would get the stage picked out of the mud and come along where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>We had to lay in San Francisco for several days, the steamers refused to go outside in such rough weather and the only thing we could do was to wait.  One or two boats started and before getting outside the heads returned again to the wharf.  Passage at that time from San Francisco to San Pedro was forty-five dollars and four dollars more to Los Angeles in the stages and mule team.  Ours happened to be a mule team and the driver said he had never drove stage much before, but give him an oxen team and he would not lay down the whip to any one.  We would occasionally get out and load ourselves with rocks and clods of dirt to cheer the mules on the road, as I thought we never would get there.  At that time the Express Company charged three percent for carrying money from San Francisco to Los Angeles, so we had our state room and carried our own money.  Some one would always be in the state room.  We could insure our passage money by carrying all the gold coin ourselves.  Nearly all the gold was in fifty dollar slugs and very inconvenient to carry.  When we arrived at Los Angeles we deposited it in a safe.  It was estimated that there was a million dollars deposited in different safes belonging to cattle men.  Upon arriving there one of our number was all broke out with the smallpox and I had slept with him the night before.  I knew it was no use to run from it then, so I stayed with him until he was well and never took it either; since then I have been exposed to it several times and never have taken it on any occasion.  My partner and I buried a baby that had died with it; we were the only mourners, in fact the only ones there.</P>
148.sgm:<P>After a time, we went up to San Bernardino.  We had heard that the Mormons had driven a good many cattle there from Salt Lake City, which we found to be true.  They were all work oxen and in fine condition.  We were there several weeks buying up cattle as long as we had the money to buy with.  While there and just across the street from where I was boarding, lived the wife of Parly P. Pratt and by some means she learned my name was Stephens, and she had been a Stephens before her marriage to Pratt, and she thought sure we must be in some way related, therefore she sent for me to come and see them.  She was the former and first wife of Parly P., and had two fine looking grown daughters.  I not only spent a very pleasant evening with them, but a good many more following, but we couldn't figure out any relationship.  Parly P. was not there.  I suppose he was off somewhere hunting up some more spiritualists.  Well, the old lady never mentioned his name while I was there, neither did I tell her of his Australia Spiritual wife that I had seen combing his whiskers with her fingers.  Too bad that as fine a woman as she appeared to be should have to submit to the brutality of such men and he one of the twelve apostles and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>On arriving at San Jose with our cattle we were offered 18 cents per pound for all we had by a San Francisco butcher.  This was a good price, and two of us wanted to sell and three wanted to hold on to the cattle and drive them up into the mines, where we could get a great deal more for them, so the minority had to submit to the majority.</P>
148.sgm:<P>So we drove on up and stopped in the neighborhood of Sacramento and looked around through the mines for a purchaser, but 16 cents was the best offer we ever had and the consequence was that I sold out my interest to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>Speaking of the company in the cattle business there was one with whom, by mutual agreement, I became great friends, by name M. S. Wilson.  In fact we were together for about eleven years and most of that time in partnership.  We were sometimes dubbed as David and Jonathan.  Finally someone stepped in and cut me out and I never felt much grieved over it, for I could not blame him very much, as the other partner and rival happened to be a beautiful young lady of Santa Clara and one of the Chandler family.  As for my own part, I did not yield to such temptation until 1867, when I too raised the white flag and surrendered and said farewell to bachelordom and married Miss Julia Ludlum of San Francisco.  I have never regretted the rash deed and hope to live through the short time alloted us as genial and pleasantly as in the past.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I took the steamer again for San Pedro, thence by stage to Los Angeles, with about the same routine as the year before.  I canvassed the different ranches and it was hard to buy cattle that year.  The Spaniards had gotten the idea that the cattle buyers were making too much money and that they would drive their own cattle, which quite a number of them did.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Among other places we visited was San Bernardino and there we saw some of the people we had become acquainted with the previous year, among them was Mrs. Parly P. Pratt and her fair daughters.</P>
148.sgm:<P>By this time the Mormons at Salt Lake were going to go to war with the United States and were calling in all their outside settlements to Salt Lake.  At San Bernardino they were selling off their property for anything they could get to get a team to go with.  In fact they were just giving away good homes and sacrificing everything just because Brigham and the Church authorities had so ordered.  Among others that were going back was Captain Hunt, our old guide of '49.  I was boarding with his son-in-law, but he was not strong enough in the faith to follow the rest.  Captain Hunt had an unmarried daughter that I knew pretty well, and, of course, she was ordered to go with her parents, so she started and had gotten out on the desert about a hundred miles from the starting point, and while all were asleep she quietly rose and saddled one of the best mules and returned to San Bernardino.  I was not very much surprised at seeing her as she had told me she was not going back to Salt Lake, and I guess she meant it.</P>
148.sgm:<P>After buying what cattle we wanted, amounting to seven hundred and fifty head, we made a start, and as they were all wild, right off the range, they gave us a good deal of bother and anxiety for several days and nights.  At first they would stampede three or four times of a night.  They would start as quick as a gun-shot from a lying position to a dead run at one jump.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>At San Buenaventura we lost some horses that had gotten away from the herd during the night and as soon as daylight came I went out after them and took a Spanish man with me.  At about three miles away we overtook two of them and I sent them back with the Spaniard and rode pretty fast after the other five and in going across the valley I saw them at a distance rising the hill just beyond the valley, so I rode as fast as my horse could travel, but at the top of the hill I lost their tracks.  Two of them had trail ropes and were very easily trailed so I searched the country round for miles, but could get no trace of them.  I met one or two droves of cattle and the vaquero told me they were sure they had not passed them, so I traveled until dark and no sign of them.  So I took the saddle off of my horse and let him graze tied to my leg, as I could not stake him out for fear the coyotes would cut him loose and leave me afoot many miles from anywhere.  As soon as daylight came I started to a Spanish ranch a few miles away, where I had been the day before, and where I made inquiry, but they said they had seen no stray horses.  I inquired if I could get some breakfast, and they said I could and by the way I had not eaten anything since the day I started out.  After eating a pretty hearty breakfast and getting a little corn for my horse, paying my bill and getting in the saddle, I let loose on them with all the bad Spanish I could think of.  I started on knowing full well that they were the ones that had stolen the horses and had them hid away.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I had gone perhaps three or four miles on the road back when I happened to look around and here were eight men coming on horseback.  They were not very far away and I saw that I had to prepare and prepare quick, for I knew they were after me, but as luck was in my favor I saw a wash in a dry creek at one side, the bank of which was about twenty feet high.  I immediately turned my horse in the creek and had the high bank for protection on one side, therefore they could not surround me.  They all had their loops ready to lassoo me and drag me, for that is one of the ways they have of putting people to death.  I allowed them to come up within about 40 yards and then told them to stop.  I had a good Colts Navy revolver in my holster and on my saddle, as it was my custom to carry it there.  By this time I had it in my hand and ready for business.  When I told them to halt they all ran their horses together and held a little consultation about what to do.  They talked quite low, but I could understand them to say "It's no use now, we will go on and maybe we will get him later."  So when they started on I started immediately after.  Soon they turned a point and were out of my sight and there I saw my chance to escape.  I turned off from the road and followed a dry ravine or gulch that ran at right angles with the road and pretty well up towards the divide between there and another stream several miles away.  That left the divide between me and my assailants, for I was satisfied that they had kept to the road and lay in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>After arriving at Santa Barbara we came to the conclusion to buy a couple more horses as we were a little short now after losing five.  Besides buying a couple more horses we hired another vaquero and had to buy him a saddle, bridle, spurs, in fact the whole outfit.  He stayed with us two days and at midnight on the second night it was his turn to go on guard and he deliberately rode away on the horse and outfit we had bought for him.</P>
148.sgm:<P>It was dark and it did not take much start to get away, so that was the last we ever saw of him or the horse either.  We gradually moved along until we arrived at what is now called Coyote, at that time it was the Fish Ranch.  We stopped there for a few days and separated out about a hundred and twenty of the fattest and drove them to San Francisco and sold them at a very good price, forty-five dollars per head.  While we were at this we still kept a lookout for droves of cattle, and it happened that we saw two of the horses we had lost with a bunch of cattle.  I asked the men that was riding one of them where he got that horse and he said away down in the country, mentioning the name of the ranch.  I told him I was very sorry to put them to any inconvenience, but two of those horses belonged to us and he would have to give them up.  All that was necessary was to go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>On our return from San Francisco after disposing of the cattle we moved the balance of something over five hundred up to the San Joaquin and found a good range there.  We were about the second party that had taken cattle on the west side.  Major Euten had a band about sixty miles above us and it was twenty-five miles below the old Dr. Marsh's ranch and about the same distance to the Livermore Valley, so we had pick and choice.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We thought it a good idea to try and secure some of that land for a stock ranch.  At that time we could file on swamp and overflow land as state land which we did to about two thousand acres and then bought a party out who had a pretty good house and barn.  Our land lay up and down Old River and fronting on the plains which gave us access to the tule land and the plains as well and was an ideal stock ranch where we made headquarters for a number of years, raising cattle, buying and selling as it chanced to be.</P>
148.sgm:<P>After getting settled on the San Joaquin two of us bought out all the other partners and run ourselves in debt nearly twenty thousand dollars.  We bought a good many cattle from the Spaniards who had driven their own cattle that year and at prices less than they were willing to sell us at home before they started.  We handled a great many that way.  It was a business I liked as well as any I was ever in, except mining; there was always so much life about it, always some excitement and time never dragged.</P>
148.sgm:<P>In 1855 I was in the lower country again, taking the steamer for San Diego this time and trying to buy cattle there, but they had their ideas too high.  Spent a good part of the winter there and boarded at Old Town, as it was then called.  Where San Diego now stands wasn't thought of at that time, there being but one house and one man there and that was a government house and a soldier to look after it.</P>
148.sgm:<P>San Diego at that time was a pretty hard place.  There was quite a good many there that watched every steamer that came in.  If they saw any one that they took to be an officer they would slip down over the line into Mexico and wait for some of their confederate to pass them the word that the coast was clear.  The country down there was full of that class.  After we found we could not buy anything there to suit, we concluded to come up to Los Angeles, but we were very careful not to say so to anyone.  After everything was quiet we saddled our horses and came away in the night.  There were too many cut-throats hanging around there to take any chances.  We travelled the greater part of the night and the next day we arrived in San Juan Capistrano, where we procured a corral to put our horses in and feed them.  We had some supper at a Mexican restaurant and some breakfast at the same place, but we slept in the corral with our horses.  Next morning we resumed our journey and about four miles out we passed a band of about forty-five robbers, a regular banditti crowd.  They were camped near the road and just behind a little hill that hid them from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>The next place we came to was all dark, as it was now about midnight.  We hailed them as we had done at the other places, but not a sound could we get, so I told Sam, that was the man who was with me, that we would stay there anyway.  I dismounted and went and tried the door, but it was bolted good and solid.  I told Sam that it looked as if they did not intend to entertain us at this place so we went down on the flat below the house where there were some willows and tried to make a fire, as it was a cold, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>A little way further on we came to an Indian camp and saw an Indian carrying a sack of corn.  We hailed him and asked him if he would sell us some of his corn for our horses as they had had nothing all day and all night.  He didn't want to part with his corn at all as he said he had packed it so many miles, but we offered him a big price for it and the temptation was too great.  He says, "as I am a good Christian I will let you have the corn, only for that you could not get it."  We both shook him by the hand and called him Buena Christiana.  I think it did the old fellow more good than the corn would have done.  That day brought us to the sheep that we had gone out to meet.  Near Warners Ranch and just at the edge of the desert we found the owners of the sheep, very gentlemanly man, by the name of Lunas.  They were high grade Spanish people, regular Castillians, and wouldn't let us do a thing for our horses, not even take off the saddles.  They had servants to do everything, Piutes as they call them, and just treated us royally.  I think we stayed over there one day to let our horses rest a little.  We could not buy any sheep from them, they had fifty thousand head.  It was about ninety miles out there, and we didn't pass a white man's house on the whole trip, not many Spanish either.  We returned and bought sheep near Los Angeles, and drove sheep that year as we could not buy cattle and make anything.  The sheep paid a little better, as we sold the wool for enough to pay expenses.</P>
148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>The next spring following, I concluded to go to the Sandwich Islands and see what kind of country that was.  I took passage on a Clipper Ship, the Red Gauntleta sailing vessel and I want to say I never had a nicer trip than I did on that ship.  The captain had his family aboard and there were six passengers in all, three of them ladies.  My roommate was a druggist from Marysville, who was going to visit his sister, a professor's wife, who lived on the islands.  I think we were seventeen days going down and I enjoyed every minute of the time.  The captain offered Mr. Douglas and myself a free passage if we would go on with him to China, as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<illus entity="a148-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN B. COLTON GEORGE ALLEN EDWARD F. BARTHOLOMEW  JOHN L. WEST THOMAS SHANNON WM. L. MANLY JAYHAWKERS OF '49</P>
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148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>My next venture was to go into the cattle business again.  By this time I had been running around a good deal and finances were getting low and about this time I received a letter from an old friend of mine asking me to come and see him at Benecia.  He was engaged there on government works, a good paying position, and he proposed if I would like to go into the cattle business again he would furnish the necessary capital.  If I had let him in as full partner I still held my interest in the cattle ranch on the San Joaquin.  So he proposed that he would put in eight thousand dollars to start the business, and if it was necessary he could put more later.  So in the fall of 1857 two others besides myself started up to Visalia to see what we could do there.  One of the men was my old partner in the business, Mr. S. Wilson by name, but the agreement was that each one would buy on his own hook and keep his separate brand, but drive together, each bearing his quota of the expenses, but my old partner, after prospecting for some time, could not see anything that suited him and returned home without buying anything.  In a short time after that I came across a man who had driven up the summer before three hundred cows and calves, which were year olds in the spring, and I bought the lot and took them to the ranch and in the spring the three hundred cows were having their three hundred calves again.</P>
148.sgm:<P>In the spring, time came for rodeoing.  I attended all the rodeos in that part of the country and collected cattle every place I went, and when we got all through I was short but a very few head, and we soon made preparations to drive.  In the meantime the other man had bought all he wanted, and by the time I had driven home to the ranch I was able to brand nearly nine hundred cattle, little and big.  They increased very fast and it seemed to me it was but a little while that I had about fifteen hundred head and the prices were still good.  I wanted to sell and went to see my partner about it, and he seemed to think I was losing my head.  "What better do you want to do than that?  There are so many cattle worth so much per head that will foot up about forty thousand dollars."  "Yes," I told him that they were bringing good prices now.  I rather insisted on selling, but he would not listen to it at all.  I had the same experience once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>I wanted to go to Stockton so I had to take the boat to Benecia and then take the Stockton boat up from there.  I saw quite a queer sight going up the river.  We passed a floating island with about sixty head of cattle on it, the peat or tulles had let loose and floated to the surface of the water and they had to ship hay to the cattle on boats to keep them alive.  When I arrived at Stockton, it was almost in the same condition as Sacramento.  The next day I chartered a man with a small row boat to take me to the ranch seventeen miles out, and we struck a bee line for the place and didn't know when we crossed the river, only the current was stronger there.  We tied the boat up to the back yard fence and found about forty-five people in the house, as it was the only house in the whole neighborhood that was above high water mark.  We had a great time boating as we had to bring all our provisions from Stockton in small boats.  That worked well when the wind did not blow, but we had some narrow escapes from heavy seas when the wind was up.  We had a great time gathering honey as there were thousands of stands of bees on the river, when the flood came.  Every willow thicket was full of bee hives, full of honey.  There was a man keeping bees on our place who lost four hundred hives.  One man above us lost a thousand.</P>
148.sgm:<P>As this brings me back to the ranch again, I would like to mention a few incidents that happened when we first settled there on the river in 1854.  The whole San Joaquin plains were covered with mustangs, elk, antelope and other smaller game and we used to think it great sport to go out and catch mustangs.  The Spanish people over in the Livermore valley would come over and camp at our place and we would all start from there.  Our mode of procedure was to send out relays all up the plains about four miles apart and then start a bunch of mustangs.  There were generally about thirty in a bunch, sometimes more.  The first relay would run them to the next and so on for fifteen or twenty miles and the ones at the end of the line would turn them and start them down the line again, so we would keep them going up and down the plains all day and at night we would leave them and go to camp.  The next morning we would be after them again, when they would be so sore and stiff from their run the day before, they could not run and we could lassoo them as fast as we wanted to and tie them down.  When we had them all caught, we would save all the young that we thought could be broken and the rest would be killed for they were a great nuisance.  We were cured of trying to break them but the Spaniards would take all the one, two and three year olds home and break them to ride and some of them made good saddle horses and were usually very tough.</P>
148.sgm:<P>There was another thing, by way of variety that caused us trouble at times and some times much annoyance, and that was prison breaking.  Very often, there would be forty or fifty get away from San Quentin at one time and we lived right on their route to the back country.  They would just start in and rob everything they came to and we would raise a posse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>Some days our little mule would mire down a dozen times a day; he soon got cunning and would not try to help himself until the pack was all taken off.  There was a foot bridge across a river; we had to cross at a toll of one dollar each and the bridge tender said there had been ten thousands crossed ahead of us.  We finally arrived at Antler Creek, the first mining camp we struck and it was twelve miles over to Williams Creek, but we thought best to push on over there over a very high mountain.  That was a very hard pull on us as we had to sell our mule as there had not been any mules taken over the mountain this spring and we were told we could not get ours along and when we came to travel over there we knew <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<illus entity="a148-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ALONZO C. CLAY H. B. FRANS LUTHER A. RICHARDS CAPT. ASA HAINES CHARLES B. MECUM JOHN GROSCUP JAYHAWKERS OF '49</P>
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148.sgm:<P>In passing down the Frazer River, passing where Vancouver now stands, was all a dense forest, and at Westminster there were just a few log cabins.  I hardly know how we passed the first day or two in Victoria.  As it happened the young man who was with me, Edward Ludlum, his father and the American Counsel were old friends, and, after much persuasion, I prevailed on him to go to Mr. Francis, as that was the Counsel's name, and tell him who he was and I was almost sure he would help us out.  Well he got pretty hungry before he would do it, but he finally yielded.  We went together to the office and he told Mr. Francis the condition we were in and he went to his desk and wrote an order on some hotel there telling them to give us whatever we wanted until steamer day, which was five or six days away.  When the steamer came in, Ned and I happened to be in the Counsel's office, and when the purser came in, before he would do any other business with him, he told him to give us tickets to San Francisco, which he did and we got back to God's country once more and sent back to Mr. Francis the price of our bill at the hotel and our passage to San Francisco.  He could do as he pleased about paying the steamship company--that was none of our business; so we paid our way was all we cared for.</P>
148.sgm:<P>A few months later there was a rush for Aurora, on the eastern side of the Sierras and on the line between California and Nevada.  I thought I must have some of that too and went over by stage.  There were hundreds of people coming and going, but mostly coming.  Every place was crowded and the best we could do was to be allowed to spread our blankets on the floor for a dollar each.  We, of course, would have slept out of doors, but there was snow on the ground and a cold freezing night.  By the next night, we had our own tent and felt quite independent.  There were three or four of us joined together and prospected and took up some ledges that prospected pretty well and we had some assays made of the rock, got out Stock Books and divided the stock.  I know I sent mine over to San Francisco to be sold and that was the last of it.  If any of it was ever sold I never heard it.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I came across an old acquaintance who was superintendent of a mine that was running and he put me to work at four dollars per day and I worked there until September.  It was March when I arrived there.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I then took a notion to go to Arizona, and as there was a man going as far as San Bernardino with a team, I made arrangements to go with him.  When the party was made up there were ten or twelve of us, for as the Owens River Indians were known to be pretty hostile at that time we thought we would go strong enough to be safe.  We got along quite smoothly, though we had a little variety at Owen's River at the first crossing, where we camped for the night.  We had seen smoke signals all the afternoon, first on the mountain and then on the mountain across the valley.  We knew the Indians were telegraphing to each other and could tell just how strong our party was.  We had a man with us who had been a prisoner for six months before he made his escape and so knew their signs pretty well.</P>
148.sgm:<P>After supper when we were going to bed, the horses took a stampede and ran into camp, that is, all that were loose, some were picketed.  Someone called out "Boys, your guns!"  Some had guns and others revolvers, but we were soon out and scouting for Indians, but, of course, they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>The Indians surrounded the thicket and commenced firing in, and he could see the Indians but they could not see him.  Every shot he made he would get his Indian and every time he shot he would move his position, but they fought him until just as the sun was going down they bid him good-bye and said they believed he was the Devil anyway.  They were the Apaches, the meanest Indians that ever lived.  Then he afterwards sold his ranch to the Government for a pretty good price.  He was a regular Daniel Boon.  There was no Indian that could out-Indian him.  In one of his rambles he was making across a desert country and had only had a Mexican with him.  In the morning after camping their mules had strayed from camp and the Mexican had gone after them and as he did not return very soon he thought he would go to the top of a high hill to look for him.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>He showed me the gold all in pieces and some of it had a little quartz sticking into it.  I should think there was about five or six hundred dollars of it.  He said I was the only man that he had ever told about it and the only one that knew about it except himself, and said that if I would stay around that part of the country for a while we would go to it, but we might have to wait some time for it could not be reached unless it rained on the desert just as it did when he was there.  He afterwards was drowned in the Colorado River.  I knew he was telling the truth for I knew he would not think of doing anything else to me.</P>
148.sgm:<P>That leads me to another little incident that happened while I was there.  A Negro was climbing on top of a high hill and discovered just such another place as Rude had found.  The darky had picked up fifteen thousand dollars one afternoon and when I saw him in Lapaz he had not a dollar.  The gamblers and the saloons had gotten it all.  A fool and his money is soon parted.</P>
148.sgm:<P>While in Arizona another man and myself took a contract to sink a shaft on a ledge seventy-five feet, at twelve dollars per foot.  It was about forty miles out from Lapaz in the mountains.  We packed our tools and provisions out there on a pony.  We had been to work for a week or more when we were visited by four Indians, Apaches, and about dinner time they claimed to be very hungry, as Indians always are, and wanted something to eat.  We gave them some and the next day they were there again proper enough, so my partner and I consulted and concluded that we could not afford to pack grub out there forty miles to feed the Indians, so I told them they couldn't have any more.  They would go through all sorts of contortions and tell how hungry they were and there was one of them that could speak a little Spanish so I could understand him pretty well.  While I was standing them off my partner went down the shaft and went to work and in a joking way said "I guess you can stand them off."  We had taken precaution when we first went there to build a stone wall about four feet high and ten feet square and our guns were standing against the wall.  I saw the Indians had their eye on the guns and they began to get a little bolder and acted as if they were going to take what they wanted anyway, when I grabbed up one of the guns and told them to leave and that very quickly too, and they didn't wait for the second bidding, but went as I told them too.</P>
148.sgm:<P>They were camped only about four or five miles away.  We could see the smoke from their camp every day and we slept with one eye open for a few nights after, thinking they might possibly make a sneak on us when we were asleep, but they never bothered us any more.  We finished our contract and by the way did very well, making twelve dollars each per day for all the time we worked.  We then returned to Lapaz and there I chanced to meet an old friend who I knew in San Francisco, and who was engaged in freighting out to different parts of the mining districts and had four ten-mule teams on the road, and he said I was just the man he was looking for as he had more business than he could attend to and wanted to sell me one-half interest.  He valued it at fifteen thousand dollars, and said I needn't <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>However flattering the prospects were in his offer I did not accept it.  I don't know why, either, for I needed the money bad enough, but I didn't go into it.  A few months later he was on the road toward some of the mines with his teams when they were attacked by the Indians and robbed of everything and two of his men killed and he barely escaped with his life.  I sometimes think that some people have premonitions of coming disaster and I don't believe I am the least bit superstitious either.</P>
148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>About this time I had made up my mind to return to California, and in company with some others started back with some teamsters that were on their way back empty, so we had a chance to ride all the time if we wished to do so.  About forty miles out we camped at Das Palms, where there is a hot spring and at a distance of about five miles there is what is called the mud volcanoes, that work very singularly.  There will be a volume of steam start from the shore edge and travel in a straight course right across the lake.  I call it a lake, it's really a lake of hot boiling mud.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Into the lake for three or four hundred yards another will start from the same place and follow the others ahead continuously, so that there are about four in sight all the time, and each one of them turning over a mass of mud.  They can only be approached in winter; in summer no one can go nearer than a mile or two, the heat is too intense.</P>
148.sgm:<P>When we arrived at San Bernardino, we had to make different arrangements, as the teams we were with were going direct to Los Angeles, and some of us wanted to go a different direction.  So we bought some horses there and fitted ourselves with saddles, etc., necessary for the trip.  I wanted to see more of the Owens River Country, as I liked the looks of it pretty well as I passed down that way the fall before, and this I think was January or February, 1864.  There were four of us started and traveled together until we got up to Owens River, where we separated, two going on up the range, and two stopping there, and I soon found a location that suited me well enough to take up and improve.</P>
148.sgm:<P>The man who stopped with me only stayed a week or two, got home-sick and started for San Francisco, where he lived.  I wasn't very sorry for he wasn't a person that I admired very much.  That left me entirely alone and this was right where the Indians had been committing deprecations the fall before.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I went to work on my claim, building a cabin, planting garden, and plowing the ground.  It was most excellent land and in former years the Indians had irrigated a good part of this same land.  They raised what is called cumus and grows similar to potatoes.  My nearest neighbors were twenty miles away at Fort Indepeendence, in one direction, and eight miles in another direction, to a sawmill, where Bishop is now situated.</P>
148.sgm:<P>One day I was very busy working, digging a ditch, fencing in a garden patch, when I looked up there stood four Indians about two rods away.  As <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>I remained there a month or six weeks longer, when I saw a large band of sheep camped not far from my place, and in the evening I went down to the camp, as I was glad to get the sight of anybody that happened to come along.  I was very much surprised to find that one of the owners was an old friend and comrade that was in our party of "Jay Hawkers of '49", and traveled on the desert with us and was one of the sufferers.  I was more than glad to see him, as well as he to see me.  They had bought the sheep near Los Angeles and were on their way to Idaho, and nothing would do, but I must go with them.  They said the mines there were almost as good as California in its day, which was a slight mistake.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Anyway the next morning I saddled my horse and took my little belongings, which did not amount to much and left everything, the garden growing, and the Indians in peaceful possession.</P>
148.sgm:<P>I might mention that in after years, I think it was 1868, that there was a severe earthquake on that side of the mountains and that on this particular piece of land that I had taken up, that forty acres, sunk ten feet below <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>We made pretty slow progress up through Nevada, via Quinn River, Owihee, and so on up to Boise City.  The only trouble we had with Indians was on Quinn River, where they ran a part of our horses away.  We were up early enough to see their dust just at daylight, going into the mouth of a box canyon, three or four miles away.  Another man besides myself happened to be on guard and saw them.  We started after them, and followed them up the canyon as far as they could drive, and at the head was a nice place to hold them.  We recovered all the horses and did not see any Indians.  They no doubt saw us though.  We had heard that on the Owihee, the Indians were quite troublesome at that time, and had killed people just ahead of us, but we were pretty strong in numbers, being seventeen in the company.  When we had gotten within about two hundred miles of our destination, two owners went ahead to try and sell the sheep.  By the time they arrived there I received a letter sent by express rider, stating to remain there on good feed, until they returned.  By the way, they had left me in charge of the train.  I held the sheep there for a couple of days and the herders got together at night and mutinied, and the next morning hitched up the teams, and were going away, all I could do was to go along or stay.  They had gotten too close to the mines and had the fever.  I could do nothing with them, there were too many against one.</P>
148.sgm:<P>However, we met the owners coming back that day, and as soon as we arrived at Boise City, they discharged every herder, and they had to get on to the mines the best way they could.  After a little time my friends disposed of their sheep and I went on up to Idaho City with them.  I soon got a job at $6.00 a night shoveling in the sluices.  I fell in with some old acquaintances, and we took up some claims and went to work on them.  We did fairly well, but didn't strike anything rich, a little better than simple wages.  We worked on in this manner until winter set in, and we could not do any more.  We had a good log cabin, but it was pretty cold until it got all covered up in ten feet of snow, and then it was warm and comfortable.  We could not do much through the winter, except saw out our lumber for sluice boxes, that we wished to use on some claims we had taken up.  We sawed all our lumber with whip-saws, and spent a good deal of time snow-shoeing.  We used skies there altogether, and got to be quite expert before spring.  It was May before we got to work on our claims and when we did, it was with only moderate success, and in the fall I think about September, I went down to Oregon to see what kind of a country that was.  Landed in Portland, and Portland at that time was not much of a place.  You went about three or four blocks from the river and right into the woods.  I stayed there but a few days, and went on up to Oregon City, and helped to put in that dam and breakwater.  I remained in Oregon until sometime after the holidays and then returned to San Francisco.  I forgot to mention in winding up my business on the San Joaquin, I lost my interest in the ranch.  Fremont claimed that it belonged to him, he and his wife Hessie, came there once while we were there and slummed three leagues of land running up and down the river, but we didn't think, neither do I think yet, that he ever had any title to the land he claimed, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>I remained but a short time in San Francisco, and then went down to Santa Clara, where I had some friends living, and one of them, my old partner of former times, was on the eve of going over into Santa Cruz County to take up land in the redwoods and persuaded me to go along.  It didn't take much persuasion for I was foot-loose at this time and ready for anything that happened to turn up.</P>
148.sgm:<P>We were just a week going over there, owing to constant rain and high water.  Judge Wilson, the man I was with, had already been there, and had his claim selected.  I helped him to build his house and get comfortably fixed and then looked around for a claim for myself and was successful in finding a good one, with fine timber.  In the meantime there was another young man, who came over from Santa Clara and found a good claim adjoining mine and we built a cabin together and lived together for a couple of years.  The next spring and summer peeled tan bark which seemed to be the most available thing to make ready money, which, when we sold, netted us about $1800.00 for our first year in the redwoods.  I peeled bark the next two succeeding years, with very satisfactory results.</P>
148.sgm:<P>In the meantime I came to the conclusion that here was good money in timber land, if I could only get enough of it.  I had by this time proved up on my claim and had entered another fifty acres adjoining my claim as State School land, which gave me two hundred acres, all of the finest of timber land.  At that time the Southern Pacific R. R. Co. claimed every alternate section.  I had been with the surveyors off and on, when they were surveying there and I knew all the choice sections and quarter section.  With this information I went to San Francisco to the R. R. office and filed on twelve quarter sections and paid them the one-fourth down on the purchase price, which was a $1.25 per acre.  They raised the price afterwards to $2.50 per acre on their land.  Several months passed and in the meantime the R. R. Co. had their exterior lines surveyed, and the line just came to the edge of the land I had entered, and didn't take in a solitary quarter section of it, and of course, I was very much disappointed, for I had a fortune sure in the land if I could only procure title to it.  I went to San Francisco to see what they were going to do about it.  Lloyd Tevis was president of the company at that time and he said that I could go anywhere I wished and where they had land and take it.  In lieu of that, and there is where I made a mistake again, but I was so disappointed in not getting what I had filed on that I would not take other land.  In lieu then, he said, he would refund the money with interest, which he did and acted very nice about it, and told me I was making a mistake.  I didn't take other land, and to my sorrow, I found out the mistake that land I had entered from them has been worth $200 per acre for several years past.</P>
148.sgm:<P>As the saying goes, "It never rains, but it pours," about this time there was an enterprise gotten up to put in a flume to float lumber down as far <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>After leaving the mines, I first settled in Santa Clara and then in San Jose, where I still reside, and looked around for something to do.  I started in to manufacturing windmills and carried on that business for a number of years, also made a trip back East and took in the World's Fair at St. Louis.  From there I went up into Illinois visiting relatives in the neighborhood of Galesburgh, for the first time since leaving there in 1849, an absence of fifty-five years.  It is needless to say, I knew but very few people there, many had died and others had moved away.  We remained there about a month and then started on the homeward trip via the State of Washington, where we had a son living, Dr. Stephens of Monroe, but now of Seattle.  Spent another month there and then returned home to San Jose and resumed my windmill business, which I followed for some time, until I had an offer to go to Alaska.  A company had been formed to go up there and put in a hydraulic plant, and in looking around for a superintendent they came to see me, if I would go and take charge.  We finally made satisfactory arrangements and proceeded to San Francisco and laid in the supplies and machinery that were necessary.  We sailed on the Steamer Excelsior on February 22nd, 1898, for Seattle.  We took on board in addition to our outfit four horses.  There were seventeen of us in the company, and all went well barring sea sickness, that was somewhat troublesome to some of the boys.  It is usually the case on ship, but arrived in Seattle where we laid in some more supplies, such as hand sleds, etc.  At Seattle there was a lot more passengers came aboard and about a hundred and fifty dogs.  By this time we were pretty well crowded, but altogether had a pretty jolly good time.  We went up the inside passage to Juneau, a distance of about a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<illus entity="a148-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>REV. J. W. BRIER, WIFE, AND SON ALEXANDER S. PALMER CAPT. ED. DOTY WM. B. RUDE URBAN P. DAVIDSON JAYHAWKERS OF '49</P>
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148.sgm:<P>Our mode of making trail was in this manner: first three or four men would go over the route with snow shoes, following them with all the help <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>When we got to the lake, it was the first place that our horses did us any good.  Here we could hitch three or four sleds together and one horse pull them on the ice and travel right along.  We had gotten all our stuff across the lake when the ice broke up and was gone.  If we had been a day later it would have been too late.</P>
148.sgm:<P>After leaving the lake we still had six miles to make all the way up hill, where the horses were of no use as there was too much snow and when we finally arrived at the mine on the fifth of May, found the snow still to be from four to five feet deep, but that was no disadvantage to us as we could get our logs to the saw pits much better than we could on the bare ground.  We had all our lumber to saw with whip-saws and bring down to the mines on the snow.  It took six thousand feet to supply our immediate wants for building flumes, etc.  We made all our pipe there on the ground.  It was cut and punched already to rivet together.</P>
148.sgm:<P>When we were ready to go to work I had a job on my hands.  The men were all green about mining, there being no miners among them.  I had everything to see to and the work was scattered here and there and it just kept me stepping lively.  If I had even one man that could go ahead and take the lead in any part of the work it would have helped me out a great deal, however in a few days they got so they could saw lumber, and that made it easier.  We had four miles of ditch to make and I had to survey that, and two or three canyons to cross where we had to flume, one of them being fifty feet high.  Our flumes were all three feet in width.  I think it was some time in August before we were ready to turn on the water which made a pretty short season, for we had to get out of there as soon as the snow commenced to fly.  It is remarkable how soon the grass and all kinds of vegetation comes on after the snow is off the ground.  In a few days the grass was knee high and a few more it was up to a man's waste.  Berries are the same way.  You will see them in blossom and seemingly about long enough to take a good nap the bushes are hanging full of ripe berries.  It is the greatest country for berries I ever saw.  Many places you can see the bears come almost every day to feed on them.  We had all the bear meat we wanted, besides moose, mountain sheep and small game, and it was fat and nice, which helped out our grub bill a great deal as we had to keep the pack train running all the time packing from Sunrise.</P>
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148.sgm:<P>Where we landed at Resurrection Bay, is now quite a town called Seward and the terminus of a rairoad that runs out in the direction of Sunrise, but is only finished about thirty miles.</P>
148.sgm:<P>It seemed strange to go to bed at ten o'clock at night and the sun still shining and wake up at three A.M. and the sun shining again, and between sundown and sunrise one can see to read the papers at any time of night.</P>
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148.sgm:<P>If anything ever induces one to go to Alaska, it will be for mining and not for agriculture.  Mining interests there is only in its infancy, when they get railroads and transportation becomes cheaper there will be vast amounts of gold and other minerals taken from the ground; enough to enrich--I was going to say the entire world--but certainly Alaska has a great future.</P>
148.sgm:<P>After returning from Alaska I took up the windmill business for some time and then drifted off into the orchard business with only moderate success, for the reason that the prices dropped until there was not much in the business, but since that the prices has more than doubled on fruit as well as on the land.  I still retain some interest in that business.</P>
148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>When I was on Woods Creek, there was a Frenchman living in a cabin near by and we became pretty well acquainted, and I had told him of our rich mine on the Tuolumne River, and he was quite anxious to get an interest in it and offered, if I could get hold of it, to furnish all the capital to open the mine and work it and share and share alike.  I made all the inquiries I could about the company that had worked it the year before, but could not get any tidings of one of them.  I knew it was risky to go ahead and take possession, for according to mining laws, we were not required to keep our tools in the mine on river claims, where the river had been turned the previous year.  I was entirely too conscientious about the matter and did not risk it.  I knew there was a fortune there for any person or company that could work it.  It was a sure thing.  I always regretted that I had not gone ahead and worked it, for I never heard of one of the company afterward.  Another time I had let a fortune slip by.</P>
148.sgm:<P>While in the mines, every little while there would come news of rich strikes being made at some remote place and then everybody wanted to go and it was customary to want to get started and get there first, everybody being the same, anxious to be the first on the ground.  People would be starting at all times of day and night, and four times out of five the strikes were perfect fakes, but everyone was just as willing to go again the next time an alarm came along.  They were better known as stampedes.</P>
148.sgm:<P>About this time I heard of one up on the Fine Gold Gulch and very rich, about a hundred miles distant, with the Indians pretty bad.  That made the inducements greater than they would have been with no Indians, for that gave it life and little more variety.  We fed on excitement here a good deal.  In early times it was the spice of life.</P>
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148.sgm:<P>In the summer of fifty, in Mariposa County, there was a company of a hundred volunteers raised to go out and fight Indians.  They went up into the mountains and built a log fort and were camped there, having a good time and had the Stars and Stripes flying over the fort.  One morning the flag was missing and in scouting around some of the soldiers (if you can call them such) saw an Indian streaking it through the woods with the flag wrapped around him.  That was too good a joke on them; in fact they were called in and discharged without killing or capturing a single Indian.  When we returned to camp, we were pretty near ready to leave as the mines there were no good.</P>
148.sgm:<P>There was one little incident that might be worth mention.  I was out prospecting and as I was going along a dim trail I came around a sharp turn and came upon a California lion lying asleep in the shade of a tree.  Another step and I would have been onto him.  It's useless to say that he got away from there in a hurry, but it is only to show the wild life of the early Pioneer.  I could mention scores of such incidents that we never took any notice of.  While on Woods Creek, very early one morning; in fact, it was hardly light, I went to the creek only a few rods away, for a pail of water.  I saw a dark object near where I usually went for water and on little closer observation, I observed it was a dead Indian.  He, no doubt, had gone there for a drink of water and had gotten his head into the water and was unable to get out again.  The water was only four inches deep, and there I had the opportunity of witnessing another Indian funeral, but this time there was no cremation and very few mourners.  They went at it more in the shape of business.  They undertook to dig a grave up on the bank, but soon struck hard bedrock at each end of the grave, but the middle was softer and they proceeded to make that part of the grave deeper.  The consequence was when they put the Indian in, his head and feet only touched.  But they did not let a small matter like that balk them in the least.  I was wondering what they would do next, when three of them stood on the middle of the dead body and jumped up and down a few times, and got him broke down into the hole sufficiently to get him covered over with dirt.</P>
148.sgm:<P>On my arrival in Stockton from the mines; in fact, the first day there, I witnessed the hanging of Mickey Free, for murder, and a short time after there was another hanging bee, this time for horse stealing.  This time the victims were Mountain Jim and Dutch Fred.  Either of them would have weighed over two hundred pounds, but the gallows withstood the strain, contrary to the opinion of a great many.  It is alarming how reckless some men can live even to the last moment; for example: Mountain Jim ventured to make a speech and was granted the privilege.  He stated he had never harmed any one, had swiped a few horses at different times and that was all.  He insisted on placing the rope around his own neck, but that was not granted.  When all was ready, he says, "here we go pals, 'round and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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148.sgm:<P>I thought it the most cruel and barbarious piece of entertainment I had ever witnessed and never cared to attend another like performance.  Stockton was a great stage coach center for all the mining towns for an area of almost a hundred miles around and most of them were due about 4 P.M., and they would come dashing in in grand style, under the whip at great speed, and one day among other arrivals was a Jew, and his coach happened to be a little late for the boat which left at that hour.  He came on the full run down to the levee, as it was then called, and the boat commenced to pull out and was perhaps about ten feet from the wharf.  He seemed to have but one thought, that was to get his grip aboard and jump after it.  So he threw his grip and it struck the wheel-house about midway and as the wheel was now in motion, in less than a minute there was all kinds of dry goods scattered floating on the water, which made fun for the onlookers.  To see his dismay for a little while and his performance was very amusing.  He would just jump up and down crying, "Mine got vot shall I do, vot shall I do," and the jeers he would get from the crowd around didn't help matters much.  Some would say, "Jump, why don't you jump," and another would say, "why don't you swim."  Sometime in the early fifties, I think about fifty-two and three, there was one of the most dreaded outlaws that had ever infested the country.  His name was in everybodys mouth--he was a terror to the whole country, and his name was Joaquin Murietta.  Any of the old-timers must remember his career, as a murderer and a reckless <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<illus entity="a148-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>This is a picture of John B. Colton, reproduced from a daguerotype taken by an artist at Long Wharf, San Francisco, in 1850.<HSEP>The artist retained the negative of this picture and represented it to be a girl miner in boy's clothing, explaining that she had crossed the plains in 1849.  Her parents both died on the trail but a woman in the train took charge of her and brought her safely through to the mines.  Finding a rich placer mine she adopted boy's clothing and successfully worked her claim and scon made her pile.  She started for the States, and while in San Francisco had this picture taken before changing to woman's attire.<HSEP>By telling this story the artist sold hundreds of copies of the photo at five dollars each to the miners, many of whom had not seen a woman for years, and would pay any price for a picture of one just to carry around in their pocket to remind them of home and home life.<HSEP>The peculiar incident of this story is that Colton, the original of the picture upon returning from the mines, saw the crowd about the artist's shack and proceeded to investigate, and recognized the picture at once.  Stepping inside he asked the artist when there would be a dividend.  "What do you mean," asked the artist.  "Why," replied Colton, "that's my picture you are selling to these miners, and I want you to divide profits, as you have evidently made a pretty good clean up from the enterprise."  After joshing the artist to his satisfaction, Colton left and no more was heard of matter.</P>
148.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<P>It will be necessary to go back to the desert again to bring up a few items that I had overlooked.  Mirage on the desert oft times had deceived hundreds as it did us at many times.  We would be traveling sometimes in an almost famished condition and every step was an effort that tried the most hardy among us, when some one would announce that they could see water ahead at some distance.  When our attention was called to it we could all see it plain enough.  Could see the lake with the willows growing on the margin and some of the party could see birds swimming on the water, at least they thought so.  I could see no birds, but could see the trees plain enough.  Each one would quicken his step and new life would be instilled into us that water had been almost reached and how soon now our parched lips and our horrible thirst would be appeased.  Soon doubts would begin to rise as we approached the spot, where we were so sure we had seen the water.  The water had disappeared, trees had dwindled to become little desert shrubs, not four inches high and the birds must have flown.  Gloom and disappointment would then take possession which I will not try here to describe, as no pen is adequate for the task.  Mirage is sometimes seen on the San Joaquin plain.  I have seen it there almost as beautiful and deceptive as on the desert.  Thus along the pathways of the journey of life, oft times our most ardent desires fade away and come to naught.</P>
148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>I don't want to forget to mention about a trip to the Yosemite Valley.  Four of us in the party, consisting of my wife and daughter, son-in-law and myself.  We drove up and camped out all the time we were gone, which was a month of well spent time.  We went via Livermore, Stockton, Chinese Camp, Big Oak Flat, so on to the Yosemite Valley.  Soon after entering the Valley, we passed by the great El Capitan and near it and a little further on we came to Yosemite Falls, which is a wonder to behold; the first fall of water is 1100 feet without a break, and then a fall of nine hundred and then another of 400 feet, making 2400 feet in all, and looking at it from a distance you hardly know there is a break in the whole distance.  It is certainly the most wonderful sight, especially where there is a good volume of water going over.  A little way further on and we came to Sentinel Hotel, and just above the hotel are the comping grounds, where we camped.  The next place of interest is Mirror Lake, but you want to visit that before sunrise to get the benefit of its great beauty.  The lights and shadows and the pictures of different colored rocks is perfectly magnificent.  You never tire looking at it, as every minute it changes and gives you a different picture.  From there you have about a two-mile walk up to the Nevada Falls, where the whole river tumbles down a perpendicular fall of 260 feet without a break.  This is a very fascinating sight that one does not get tired of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<P>On our way back we came near the Mariposa Big Trees that are well worth seeing also, and very interesting to any one who has not been accustomed to seeing such sights.  From there on to Viacitus, interpreted into English meaning, Little Ovens, and I never heard of a more appropriate name, for the day we passed there was the hottest I ever experienced in my life and I had seen it up to 120 in other places, but never felt it so hot before or since.  From then on to Merced and across the San Joaquin through Pacheco Pass and on to the place of starting.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Another very interesting place I have visited twice, that was the Calaveras Big Trees.  They certainly are a wonderful sight, that is the largest grove of big trees anywhere on the coast.  One of those trees after it had been cut down measured 32 feet across the stump and the stump was dressed off smoothly and used for a dancing hall.  There was plenty of room for four sets to dance cotillion and the body of the tree was dressed down about half way and was used for ten pin alleys with room for two alleys.  Our party rolled ten pins there until they didn't feel much like walking.  The next day they said they felt a little stiff.  There are some larger trees there than that, but this one was perfectly sound.  There is a hollow tree there that is much larger and is lying down.  I told a story when I was back East about three men riding abreast in the hollow of the tree, seventy-five feet and then riding out at a knot hole, and they laughed at me so that I don't often repeat the story unless it is to some one that has been there and seen for themselves.  I think it was a very wise thing for the government to come into possession of all of those grand forests and preserve them for future generations for it takes at least 4000 years to grow one of those big trees so I hope they will be preserved for all time to come.</P>
148.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
148.sgm:<P>After summing up my past life I have tried in the foregoing to give in a rude way my own experiences as they happened from time to time, but I, like thousands of others, if I had to do it over again I think how I might improve it, but all in all I have no regrets or complaints to make, as I have done the best I could under the circumstances.</P>
148.sgm:<P>It is the things that I have not done I regret the most and the greatest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<P>The daughter was married to a Presbyterian minister, Rev. James Fulcom by name, who has a prosperous and growing church in a prosperous town; so we are blest with having both a preacher and a doctor in the family.  Both of them have two children, which the grandparents as well as the parents, are very proud of.</P>
148.sgm:<P>In summing up, I think anyone that can raise a family that is an honor to themselves and to society, has not spent their lives in vain.  I am now in my eighty-ninth year and in jotting down these few items have had to depend entirely on memory, as it happened to come to me, having no data to refer to.  There is one thing that is very singular, many things that happened in forty-nine I can remember much better than things that happened in recent years.</P>
148.sgm:<P>In writing the foregoing I have  been handicapped for lack of a liberal education in my boyhood days.  All boys were taught to work, especially those that were brought up on a farm, as soon as they were in their teens.  They were put to plowing, then into the corn field and the harvest field.  Could not spare them to go to school in summer time, so all the schooling ever acquired was in winter after the corn had been gathered.  About five months of each year was the limit.  So all the schooling I ever acquired was gotten within the four walls of a log school house.</P>
148.sgm:<P>CONCLUSION.</P>
148.sgm:<P>In conclusion I cannot close this narrative of life's sketches without recording here the list of those of the "Jay Hawkers" who have passed away as well as those who are still living, April 10, 1916.</P>
148.sgm:<P>LIVING.</P>
148.sgm:<P>L. Dow Stephens, San Jose, Cal., age 89 years.</P>
148.sgm:<P>John B. Colton, Galesburg, Ill., age 82 years.</P>
148.sgm:<P>PASSED AWAY.</P>
148.sgm:<P>J. W. BRIER, SR., died in Lodi, Cal.</P>
148.sgm:<P>J. W. Brier, Jr., died in Lodi, Cal., Feb. 26, 1914.</P>
148.sgm:<P>C. C. Brier, born in Indiana, Sept. 11, 1840; died in Oakland, Cal., Dec. 7, 1907.</P>
148.sgm:<P>K. W. Brier, born May 5, 1845; died in California, Jan. 1883.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Mrs. Juliet Brier, died in Lodi, Cal., May 26, 1913, at the age of a hundred years, lacking four months.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Luther A. Richards, Beaver City, Neb., died June 15, 1899.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Chas. B. Mecum, Mt. Vernon, Iowa, died Feb. 20, 1905.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Thomas Shanon, Los Gatos, Cal., died Nov. 15, 1903.</P>
148.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
148.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
148.sgm:<P>Harrison B. Frans, Rye Valley, Ore., died Jan. 16, 1902.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Irwin P. Davidson, Thermopolis, Big Horn County, Wyo., died Dec. 18, 1903.</P>
148.sgm:<P>John L. West, Philipsburg, Mon., died Jan. 12, 1898, at Sacramento, Cal.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Alonzo C. Clay, Galesburg, Ill., died Dec. 13, 1897.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Capt. Asa Haines, Delong, Ill., died March 29, 1889.</P>
148.sgm:<P>John W. Plumer, Falon, Ill., died June 22, 1892.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Sidney P. Edgerton, Blair, Neb., died Jan. 21, 1880.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Edward F. Bertholemew, Pueblo, Colo., died Feb. 13, 1891.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Thomas McGrew, Boise, Idaho, died 1864.</P>
148.sgm:<P>John Cole, Sonora, Calif., died 1853.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Wm. B. Rude, Lapaz Ranch, Arizona.  Drowned in Colorado River, April 29, 1871.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Wm. Robinson, died in the desert, Jan. 1850.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Gould, Oskaloosa, Iowa.  An old man was in Southern Mines, Calif., in 1850.  Since then unknown.  Died at Pen Yen, N. Y., in the end of the fifties.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Alexander Palmer, Knoxville, Ill., died at Chandlerville, Sierra County, Cal., March 27, 1854.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Aaron Larken, Knoxville, Ill., died at Humboldt, Cal., 1853.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Marshal G. Edgerton, Galesburg, Ill., died at Montana Ter., 1865.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Wm. Isham, Rochester, N. Y., died in the desert Dec. 1849.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Mr. Fish, Lima, Indiana, died in the desert Dec. 1849.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Carter, Wis., died 1850.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Capt. Edward Doty, Naples, Cal., died June 14, 1891.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Burin Byrum, Knoxville, Ill., died U. S. Military Hospital,  Keokuk, Iowa, April 11, 1865.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Geo. Allen, Knoxville, Ill., died in San Francisco, Sept. 11, 1877.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Leander Woolsey, Knoxville, Ill., died in Oakland, Cal., Sept. 8, 1881.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Chas. Clark, Henderson, Ill., died Sept. 9, 1865.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Frederick Gritzner, Joliet, Ill., died Moberly, Mo., Aug. 18, 1892.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Woolfgang Tauber, Joliet, Ill. died at sea, returning from California via Cape Horn, Nov. 15, 1850.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Young and Woolfgang were partners on the desert, also in the mines, where they made their pile at Downieville and started for home in a sailing vessel around the Horn.  Woolfgang died at sea and Young sent his gold dust to his mother in Soperahl, Germany, on his arrival in New York.</P>
148.sgm:<P>Frenchman, name unknown, became insane from starvation and wandered from camp at night and was captured by the Indians and was rescued fourteen years afterwards by United States surveying party and brought to the settlements by them.  Since that his whereabouts are not known.</P>
148.sgm:<P>John Groscup, died Feb. 24, 1916, at Longvale, Mendocino Co., Cal., age 90 years, leaving only two survivors, L. D. Stephens and John B. Colton.</P>
149.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-149</TITLE>
149.sgm:<TITLE>Notes of a voyage to California via Cape Horn, together with scenes in El Dorado, in the years of 1849-'50. With an appendix containing reminiscences ... together with the articles of association and roll of members of "The associated pioneers of the territorial days of California."  By Samuel C. Upham. With forty-five illustrations: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
149.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
149.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
149.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
149.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
149.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
149.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc01-827</LCCN>
149.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
149.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>11599</COPYRIGHT>
149.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><illus entity="a149-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>NOTES OF A</P>
149.sgm:<P>VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA</P>
149.sgm:<P>VIA CAPE HORN,</P>
149.sgm:<P>TOGETHER WITH</P>
149.sgm:<P>SCENES IN EL DORADO,</P>
149.sgm:<P>IN THE YEARS 1849-'50.</P>
149.sgm:<P>WITH AN APPENDIX</P>
149.sgm:<P>Containing Reminiscences of Pioneer Journalism in California--California Day at the Centennial Exhibition, Philadelphia, Sept. 9th, 1876--Re-Unions and Banquets of the Associated Pioneers of California, in New York, January 18th, 1877 and 1878--Celebration of Admission Day, at Long Branch, N. J., Sept. 8th, 1877--</P>
149.sgm:<P>Reception to GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT, Aug. 1st, 1878 and to Hon. PHILIP A. ROACH, June 19th, 1876--Dedication of the Lick Monument at Fredericksburg, Pa., April 22d, 1878--Extracts from the Manuscript Journal of the "KING'S ORPHAN," in the year 1843--Pioneer and Kindred Organizations;</P>
149.sgm:<P>TOGETHER WITH THE</P>
149.sgm:<P>ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION AND ROLL OF MEMBERS</P>
149.sgm:<P>OF</P>
149.sgm:<P>"THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA."</P>
149.sgm:<P>By SAMUEL C. UPHAM.</P>
149.sgm:<P>WITH FORTY-FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS.<LB>"ALL OF WHICH I SAW, AND PART OF WHICH I WAS."</P>
149.sgm:<P>PHILADELPHIA:</P>
149.sgm:<P>PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1878.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAMUEL C. UPHAM,</P>
149.sgm:<P>In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.</P>
149.sgm:<P>PRESS OF</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANKLIN PRINTING HOUSE,</P>
149.sgm:<P>38 HUDSON STREET.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>TO THE</P>
149.sgm:<P>PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WHO ENCOUNTERED DANGERS BY FLOOD AND FIELD,</P>
149.sgm:<P>AND WHOSE</P>
149.sgm:<P>BRAVE HEARTS AND WILLING HANDS</P>
149.sgm:<P>HAVE CAUSED THE ARID PLAIN AND THE WILDERNESS TO</P>
149.sgm:<P>"BLOSSOM AS THE ROSE,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY</P>
149.sgm:<P>THE AUTHOR.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>ACKNOWLEDGMENT.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>To his esteemed personal friends, MR. FRANCIS D. CLARK and HON. JEREMIAH SHERWOOD, of New York; MR. COLIN M. BOYD, MR. WILLIAM WINTER, HON. PHILIP A. ROACH and DANIEL NORCROSS, Esq., of San Francisco, for their efforts in behalf of this volume; to the HON. DEMAS STRONG, of Brooklyn, N.Y., for his proffer of pecuniary aid; to the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Examiner</HI>
149.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
149.sgm:, of San Francisco; <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
149.sgm:, of San Jose&acute;, and the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Having been residents of California during the years 1849-'50, we cheerfully indorse the work written by Mr. Samuel C. Upham, of Philadelphia, and consider the volume in all respects a truthful and creditable history of that period in California, and of such a character as should especially interest all who formed a part of her population in those days of excitement and experience.</P>
149.sgm:<P>H. G. GIBSON, Brevet Brig.-Gen'l, U.S.A.,<HSEP>Fort Wadsworth, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>THOS. W. SWEENY,  "  "  "<HSEP>314 East 120th Street, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>DEMAS STRONG,<HSEP>67 Broadway, Brooklyn, E.D.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN SICKELS,<HSEP>25 Pine Street, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>EDWARD F. BURTON, Deputy Surveyor,<HSEP>Custom-House, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN GAULT,<HSEP>71 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>BEVERLY C. SANDERS,<HSEP>71 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>W. C. ANNAN,<HSEP>160 Fulton Street, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>WM. M. WALTON,<HSEP>19 Dey Street, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>STEPHEN L. MERCHANT,<HSEP>53 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ROBERT W. DOWLING,<HSEP>105th St. and Eleventh Ave., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A. T. GOODELL,<HSEP>451 East 57th Street, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEO. F. SNIFFEN, Sec'y Knickerbocker Life Ins. Co., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>PREFACE--the last part of a book written and the first read.  A book without a preface is like a coach without horses--an engine without steam.</P>
149.sgm:<P>When the news of the discovery of gold in California reached the Atlantic States, in the summer of 1848, I held a somewhat lucrative situation in the counting-house of a mercantile firm in the city of Brotherly Love.  The early reports were of so vague a character as scarcely to be credited by the most enthusiastic, and were pronounced by the skeptical as visionary--schemes gotten up by the powers at Washington to encourage emigration to California and Oregon.  But when, in the fall of that year, the dispatches of Commodore Jones, Colonel Mason and Thomas O. Larkin were officially announced by President Polk's Cabinet, and their statements indorsed by the President himself, soon after, in his message to both Houses of Congress, the existence of the gold-mines of California was acknowledged a fixed fact, and thousands started at once for the new <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
149.sgm:, and among them the reader's humble servant.  When I resigned the quill for "the pick and the spade," it was my intention to have gone to California <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm: the Isthmus of Panama, but on the eve of my departure, a communication appeared in the <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
149.sgm:, in which the writer depicted in such vivid colors the "hair-breadth 'scapes" by that route, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:I abandoned my original intention and engaged passage <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm:<P>My time, during the two weeks prior to my departure, was mostly employed in making the necessary arrangements for the voyage.  Expecting to remain at least one year in the gold-diggings, I purchased and shipped the requisite provisions for my subsistence during that time.  I also stowed away in a large camp-chest, purchased expressly for that purpose, sundry dozens of flannel and "hickory" shirts, several pairs of inexpressibles, half a dozen hats, of the latest California styles, one of Krider's incomparable rifles, a six-shooter, with ammunition to match, and last, though not least, one of those indispensable articles in a new country--an Arkansas "tooth-pick."  As I was on the eve of starting, I added to my outfit a chest of medicine, accompanied by a book containing directions, which, if strictly adhered to, would cure all the ills which flesh is heir to.  My mining implements consisted of a pick, spade and crowbar, a nest of sieves, a large tin pan and three patent gold-washers, each of a different pattern--first-class humbugs!  I also purchased an India-rubber <HI REND="italics">water-proof</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I do not claim for these Reminiscences any great literary merit, nor do I expect to "put money in my purse" by their publication.  They have been written amid the hurly-burly of a busy mercantile life, from notes taken at the time the incidents treated of transpired--their principal merit being a narration of <HI REND="italics">facts</HI>
149.sgm:, not <HI REND="italics">fancies</HI>
149.sgm:.  I have devoted considerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:space to the early history of Sacamento City, where, during the spring and summer of 1850, I was engaged in the publication of the <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:, and from the columns of that journal I have made frequent drafts.  Should the reader become weary of the monotony of the long sea-voyage, let him turn to the portrayal of scenes in Rio de Janeiro or Concepcion, or to the more stirring events in Sacramento City, during the Squatter riots in the month of August, 1850.  In conclusion, permit me to say, should anything in this volume add to the hitherto unwritten history of California, my labor will not have been in vain; and I will also state, that throughout these pages my chief aim has been to <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A round, unvarnished tale deliver,<LB>Nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SAMUEL C. UPHAM.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Philadelphia, October</HI>
149.sgm: 5 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>The departure--Scramble to get on board--Last night on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
149.sgm: --Names of passengers--Departure from the Break-water--Discharge the pilot--Paying tribute to old Neptune--Storm at sea--Deck-load thrown overboard--Humorous incident--Brandy <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
149.sgm:. Pilot-bread--Dissatisfaction among the steerage passengers--Captain Fairfowl shows his teeth--One of the sailors flogged--Mother Cary's chickens.<HSEP>23<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>Cruising in the tropics--Cabin passengers have a jollification--Cross the equator--Visit the bark <HI REND="italics">Croton</HI>
149.sgm: --Dissecting a shark--Passengers present a petition to Captain Fairfowl--A duel in embryo--Celebration of Washington's Birthday--Steerage passengers on short allowance--Gambling on board--Welcome visitors--Land, ho!--Enter the harbor of Rio de Janeiro--Impressions on beholding it--First hour on shore.<HSEP>40<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>City of Rio de Janeiro--Visit to the market--Mode of nursing children in Rio--The Passeio Publico--Rare plants and flowers--Butchery of Santa Lucia--View of the city from Telegraph Hill--The Theatre San Januaria--Trick of the manager--A night on a dilapidated sofa--Emperor's church--Interior decorations--Yankee mercantile house in Rio--Visit to Praya Grande--The Frenchman and his orange grove--Visit to the Navy Yard--Scene at the guard-house--Convent of St. Benedict--Funeral ceremony--Mode of interment.<HSEP>61</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>CHAPTER IV.<LB>Visit to the museum--Precious stones, medals, etc.--Observance of the Sabbath in Rio--Washerwomen of the Campo Santa Anna--Visit to the Academy of Fine Arts--Paintings and sculpture--The Strangers' Burial-ground--Hot-corn women--American ladies bound for California--The Emperor's palace and garden--Visit to the latter--The Emperor's juvenile sports--Second night at the theatre--Dom Pedro II and Donna Therese--Slaves in Rio--Arrival of gold-dust from California--Arrival of the steam-ship Panama--News from home--California-bound vessels in Rio.<HSEP>76<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>Departure from Rio--Vessels bound for El Dorado--Auction sale at sea--A <HI REND="italics">pampero</HI>
149.sgm: --Its consequences--Putting a little whisky where it would do the most good--Hail-storm--Raffle for a monkey--Melee between a passenger and the steward--School of porpoises--Sudden change in the atmosphere--Its effects--All hands on an allowance of water--Horrors of a passage around Cape Horn subsiding--All-Fools' Day--"The Perseverance Mining Company"--Articles of agreement.<HSEP>92<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>Another gale--Salt-water coffee--Cabin stove broken--Another hail-storm--Terra del Fuego--Staten Land by moonlight--Double Staten Land--Death of Jocko, the sailors' pet--Furious gale off Cape Horn--The cook's galley cap-sized--Cabin passengers on a jamboree--Another gale--Drifting about in the region of icebergs--Raw pork and hard-tack--Fresh provisions all gone--Novel method of obtaining fresh grub at sea--Double Cape Horn--Boxing the compass--Passengers volunteer to stand watch--Capture of an albatross.<HSEP>107<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>Another severe gale--Swollen limbs--Is it scurvy?--Captain and mate have a growl--Fight between two passengers--One of the passengers celebrates his birthday--Gambling on board, and the Captain's mode of suppressing it--Fair <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:wind once more--Passengers again on deck--Punishing a ship's boy--Passengers object to putting into Talcahuana--Anchors gotten over the bow--Passengers watching for land--Make the coast of Chili--Head-wind--Driven out to sea.<HSEP>123<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>Put into the wrong harbor--Passengers go ashore--Reception by the natives of De Chatta--Deserters--Dine with the Alcalde--Ascertain our whereabouts, and start for Talcahuana--Scenery <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm: --Chilian peasantry--Their respect for the dead--Primitive wine-press and threshing-machine--Quarter of a century later--Henry Meiggs--His arrival in Chili--Brief sketch of his eventful life--Peace to his ashes.<HSEP>139<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>Arrive at Tome--Dog-meat <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
149.sgm:. mutton--Embark in a whale-boat for Talcahuana--The Red Lion and its landlord--The <HI REND="italics">Sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
149.sgm: --A night on a dining-table--The market--Coal mines--Feast on muscles--Funeral of a whaleman--Chilian fandango--Chilians, male and female--Females making their toilet--Passengers arrive from De Chatta--Arrival of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: in the harbor of Talcahuana--Breach of the Marine Laws of Chili--Threatened confiscation of the brig--Visit to the city of Concepcion--California-bound vessels in Talcahuana--Funeral procession--Visit to the Paps.<HSEP>153<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>Description of Talcahuana--Theft of a water-cask--Punishment of the culprit--Our indebtedness to Captain Finch--The American consul--Departure from Talcahuana--Scene in the harbor--Gambling on board--Salt-water dumplings--Becalmed--Increase in the price of mining implements--General washday--Magnificent scene--Passengers on an exploring expedition--Set-to between the Captain and cook--First knockdown for the cook--Sugar served out <HI REND="italics">pro rata</HI>
149.sgm:.<HSEP>167</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XI.<LB>Sunday at sea--Light and baffling winds--Man-of-war birds shot--Fresh pork--Canchalagua pills--Passengers on their muscle--Crossing the equator--Old Neptune initiates one of the sailors--Bed-bugs and fleas--Our old skipper under the weather--Fourth of July at sea--Jolly time and no whisky--Ship ahoy!--Visit from the passengers of the ship <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
149.sgm: --We treat them to salt pork and hard-tack--Later news from the land of gold--Captain Fairfowl has the dumps.<HSEP>183<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>Our last porker slaughtered--Cold weather in the tropics--Off Lower California--The Captain predicts a fair wind--Will wine vinegar inebriate?--Provisions and water scarce--Head-winds--First mate ordered below--Encounter a squall--The cook and cabin steward have a free fight--Fog and Scotch mist--Drift-wood--Brig ahoy!--Visit from the mate of the brig <HI REND="italics">Spencer</HI>
149.sgm: --Land ho!--Farallone Islands--Come to anchor outside the Golden Gate.<HSEP>199<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>Pass through the Golden Gate and come to anchor in the harbor of San Francisco--Visit the town--The Bank-Street dry-goods dealer--Recapitulation of the voyage--Scene at the post-office--Happy Valley--Leave the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: --Intelligence from the mines--San Francisco as it was--Crime and its punishment--The Parker House and its gambling-tables--Climate of San Francisco--Start for the mines--Mosquitoes and <HI REND="italics">tules</HI>
149.sgm: --Arrival at Stockton--Stockton in '49-- <HI REND="italics">En route</HI>
149.sgm: to the mines.<HSEP>214<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>First day and night on the road--Digger Indians--The surprise--Badly frightened--"Song of the Gold-Digger"--The wrong road--Arrival at the "diggins"--Commence operations--The result--Rich "diggings" reported--Start on a prospecting tour--Return disgusted--Discovery of a rich bar--Commence operations--Sickness of the Author--Return to Stockton--Leave Stockton for San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:Francisco--Changes wrought in two months--Canvass for a newspaper route--The <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: --Its early history.<HSEP>239<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>First State election--The winning candidates--"Fire! fire! fire!"--A million dollars' worth of property destroyed--"Big Ames's" report of the conflagration--An eccentric judge--Muddy streets--First vocal entertainment in San Francisco--Early theatricals--"Them literary fellers"--Terrence McVerdant--"A rallying song for the gold-diggers."<HSEP>262<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>Locate in Sacramento City--The <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: --First election in Sacramento--Three tickets in the field--Names of the city and county officers elected--Meeting of the Council-elect--Demas Strong chosen President--He makes a speech--Adjourned meeting of Council--Mayor Bigelow's message read and accepted--First message of the first Mayor of Sacramento City.<HSEP>275<LB>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>First conflagration in Sacramento City--Amount of property destroyed--Collation given to the fire department by Mayor Bigelow--Henri Herz, the French composer and pianist--His concerts in Sacramento City--First negro minstrel performance in Sacramento--Rowe's Olympic Circus--Grand soiree--Rival politicians--First meeting of the I.O. of O.F. in Sacramento City--The Masons and Odd Fellows establish a hospital--Sutter Lodge of Ancient York Masons--Private hospitals--First public marriage in Sacramento--The <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm: --Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence.<HSEP>289<LB>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>Commercial advantages of Sacramento City--New buildings--First daily issue of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: --The <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm: follows suit--Sell my interest in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: to Mr. G. C. Weld--Death of Mr. Weld--Tribute to his memory--Captain John A. Sutter--Sutter's Fort--Attack on the Fort by the Indians--They are repulsed--Hock Farm.<HSEP>307</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xviii</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIX.<LB>Grand entertainment given at Hock Farm by Captain Sutter--Full report of the affair--Letter from Thomas O. Larkin--Mr. Francis D. Clark and others <HI REND="italics">resolve</HI>
149.sgm: that one man is as good as another, provided he behaves himself--The glorious Fourth--Its first celebration in Sacramento City--"The Ancient Order of Bricks" and the Sons of Temperance publish their programmes of exercises--A jolly Fourth of July.<HSEP>323<LB>CHAPTER XX.<LB>Land-titles in Sacramento City--The squatters organize and mean business--Buildings erected by the squatters demolished--The squatters hold incendiary meetings and declare war to the knife--Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney killed and Mayor Bigelow dangerously wounded--Burial of Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney--The citizens organize military companies--Relief for the overland emigrants--Farewell to Sacramento City.<HSEP>333<LB>CHAPTER XXI.<LB>Down the Sacramento on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
149.sgm: --San Francisco in the fall of 1850--Farewell, San Francisco--Homeward bound--The steamer <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm: --Captain Peck--Incidents on board--Arrival at Acapulco--Scenes on shore--Conflict of authority--Overland emigrants <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm: City of Mexico--Arrival at Panama--Go ashore pig-a-back--Immersion without the benefit of clergy--Panama in 1850--Two of the <HI REND="italics">Columbus's</HI>
149.sgm: passengers die of cholera.<HSEP>354<LB>CHAPTER XXII.<LB>Leave Panama--To Cruces on mule back--Down the Chagres River in a <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
149.sgm: --Deaths by cholera <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm: --Mr. and Mrs. Gillingham--Go on board the steamship <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm: --Deaths by cholera--Burial at sea--Arrival at Havana--An afternoon and night on shore--Take passage on the steamship <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
149.sgm: for New York--Arrival at New York--Departure for Philadelphia--Home again.<HSEP>370</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xix</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>APPENDIX.<LB>PIONEER JOURNALISM IN CALIFORNIA.<LB>The <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: --Its editors and proprietors--"Boston," <HI REND="italics">alias</HI>
149.sgm: "Big Ames"--First newspaper published in California--The <HI REND="italics">Alta California--Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm: --The <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
149.sgm: --Bret Harte, Mark Twain and Prentice Mulford--San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Picayune, Courier</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm: --Marysville <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm: --Stockton <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
149.sgm: --Sonora <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm:.<HSEP>385<LB>"CALIFORNIA DAY" AT THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION.<LB>Preliminary meeting in New York--Committee appointed--Rev. Albert Williams addresses the meeting--Programme of exercises--'Forty-niners and other Californians present--Distinguished guests--Addresses by Hon. Rodman M. Price, Generals H. G. Gibson and Joe Hooker, Governor Curtin, General Sutter, Governor Hartranft and Colin M. Boyd--"Song of the Argonauts"--The banquet--Fire! fire!--Telegrams sent to San Francisco.<HSEP>398<LB>SECOND ANNUAL RE-UNION AND BANQUET OF "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA."<LB>Committee of Arrangements--Report of Secretary and Treasurer Clark--Election of officers--The banquet--President Gibson's address--Addresses by General Thomas D. Johns, Joseph S. Spinney, Clark Bell, Colonel James M. Turner, Samuel C. Upham and Colonel John A. Godfrey.<HSEP>424<LB>CELEBRATION OF "ADMISSION DAY" AT LONG BRANCH, N. J.<LB>Programme of exercises--Pioneers present--The banquet--General Gibson's address of welcome--Introduction of General Sutter--Letters of regret--Mayor McKune's address--General Sutter's response--Poem--"The Land We Adore"--Bayard Taylor speaks a piece--"Song of the Argonauts"--Hop in the evening in honor of General Sutter--Telegram sent to California--The reply.<HSEP>438</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xx</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>THIRD ANNUAL RE-UNION AND BANQUET OF "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA."<LB>Secretary and Treasurer Clark's report--President Gibson's annual address--Election of officers for the current year--The banquet--Programme of exercises--General H. G. Gibson's address of welcome--Letters of regret--Prentice Mulford's address--Speeches by Judge Pratt, Colonel T. B. Thorpe, Colonel Edward F. Burton, Clark Bell, J. J. McCloskey, Colonel Joe Lawrence, Hon. Demas Strong, Joseph S. Spinney, Francis D. Clark and General Thomas D. Johns--"Ye Ancient Yuba Miner"--Notables present--"Song of the Argonauts"--Good-night.<HSEP>456<LB>RECEPTION TO GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT.<LB>Formal reception by General Fremont--Notables present--Decorations of the hall--The banquet--Vice-President Gibson's address of welcome--General Fremont's response--Letters of regret read by the Secretary--Speeches, etc.<HSEP>482<LB>RECEPTION TO HON. PHILIP A. ROACH.<LB>The banquet--General H. Gates Gibson's address of welcome--Senator Roach's response--Letters of regret--Notables present--Speeches, etc.<HSEP>497<LB>DEDICATION OF THE LICK MONUMENT AT FREDERICKSBURG, PA.  <HI REND="italics">En route</HI>
149.sgm: to Fredericksburg--Reminiscences of the town--Genealogy of the Lick family--The house in which James Lick was born--The old graveyard--Cedar Hill Cemetery--Unveiling and dedication of the monument--Addresses by Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, of Lebanon, and Samuel C. Upham, of Philadelphia--Knights Templar inauguration ceremonies.<HSEP>504<LB>Making and raising the "Bear Flag."<HSEP>563<LB>Pioneer Organizations.<HSEP>566<LB>"Truckee," the Indian Guide.<HSEP>568<LB>"The Land We Adore,"--Song and chorus.<HSEP>570<LB>A tribute to Gen. Jno. A. Sutter, and a touching reply.<HSEP>573<LB>History of the inauguration and organization of the Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California.<HSEP>575</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxi</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P><ANCHOR ID="nill.lst-1">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="nill.lst-1">The illustrations in this volume are from Original Sketches, Daguerreotypes, Photographs, the "Annals of San Francisco," and "California Illustrated."  The two latter were published soon after the discovery of gold in California, and are now nearly out of print.  Dr. John H. Gihon, a Philadelphian, and one of the authors of the " <HI REND="italics">Annals of San Francisco</HI>
149.sgm:," died in one of the Southern States, three or four years ago.  Frank Soule&acute; and James Nisbet, his associates, are, I believe, still living in San Francisco.  Mr. J. M. Letts, author of " <HI REND="italics">California Illustrated</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Portrait of the Author,<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Preceding Frontispiece</HI>
149.sgm:<P>1.  Portrait and Autograph of Gen. Sutter,<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE</P>
149.sgm:<P>2.  Harbor of Rio Janeiro,<HSEP>57</P>
149.sgm:<P>3.  Mode of Nursing Children in Rio,<HSEP>62</P>
149.sgm:<P>4.  General View of Rio Janeiro,<HSEP>65</P>
149.sgm:<P>5.  Portrait of Dom Pedro II, Emperor of Brazil,<HSEP>85</P>
149.sgm:<P>6.  The <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: in a Gale off Cape Horn,<HSEP>113</P>
149.sgm:<P>7.  Portrait and Autograph of Henry Meiggs,<HSEP>143</P>
149.sgm:<P>8.  Entrance to the Golden Gate,<HSEP>215</P>
149.sgm:<P>9.  Beach of Yerba Buena Cove, 1849,<HSEP>219</P>
149.sgm:<P>10.  Post-office, 1849,<HSEP>219</P>
149.sgm:<P>11.  The "Hounds" on a Rampage,<HSEP>223</P>
149.sgm:<P>12.  Parker House and Dennison's Exchange, 1849,<HSEP>227</P>
149.sgm:<P>13.  Interior of El Dorado Saloon, 1850,<HSEP>227</P>
149.sgm:<P>14.  Sutter's Saw-Mill, Coloma, 1849,<HSEP>231</P>
149.sgm:<P>15.  City of Stockton, Fall of 1849,<HSEP>235</P>
149.sgm:<P>16.  On the Road to the Mines,<HSEP>241</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxii</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>17.  Miners at Work, 1849,<HSEP>247</P>
149.sgm:<P>18.  Mining Scene, 1849,<HSEP>251</P>
149.sgm:<P>19.  San Francisco, Winter of 1849-'50,<HSEP>255</P>
149.sgm:<P>20.  "Old Adobe" Custom-house, 1849-'50,<HSEP>263</P>
149.sgm:<P>21.  Old School-house, opposite the <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:,<HSEP>269</P>
149.sgm:<P>22.  Muddy Streets, Winter of 1849-'50,<HSEP>269</P>
149.sgm:<P>23.  Encampment at the " <HI REND="italics">Embarcadero</HI>
149.sgm:," Sacramento, 1849,<HSEP>305</P>
149.sgm:<P>24.  Sacramento City, 1850,<HSEP>311</P>
149.sgm:<P>25.  Sutter's Fort, 1849,<HSEP>319</P>
149.sgm:<P>26.  East Side <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:, 1850,<HSEP>355</P>
149.sgm:<P>27.  Departure of a Steamship, Fall of 1850,<HSEP>359</P>
149.sgm:<P>28.  Pacific Coast Centennial Hall,<HSEP>401</P>
149.sgm:<P>29.  Portrait and Autograph of Mr. Francis D. Clark,<HSEP>433</P>
149.sgm:<P>30.  Ye Ancient Yuba Miner of the Days of '49,<HSEP>475</P>
149.sgm:<P>2 Silhouette Illustrations of Ye Ancient Yuba Miner,<HSEP>476</P>
149.sgm:<P>2  "  "  "  "  "  "<HSEP>477</P>
149.sgm:<P>2  "  "  "  "  "  "<HSEP>478</P>
149.sgm:<P>1  "  "  "  "  "  "<HSEP>479</P>
149.sgm:<P>38.  Portrait and Autograph of James Lick,<HSEP>507</P>
149.sgm:<P>39.  "  "  John H. Lick,<HSEP>511</P>
149.sgm:<P>40.  Lick Monument, Fredericksburg, Pa.,<HSEP>517</P>
149.sgm:<P>41.  Fort and Port of San Francisco, 1843,<HSEP>539</P>
149.sgm:<P>42.  Military Barracks of San Francisco, 1843,<HSEP>543</P>
149.sgm:<P>43.  Town and Port of Yerba Buena, in San Francisco Bay, 1843,<HSEP>553</P>
149.sgm:<P>44.  Russian Fort Ross, Bodega, California, 1843,<HSEP>557</P>
149.sgm:<BODY><DIV> <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>The departure--Scramble to get on board--Last night on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
149.sgm: --Names of passengers--Departure from the Break-water--Discharge the pilot--Paying tribute to old Neptune--Storm at sea--Deck-load thrown overboard--Humorous incident--Brandy <HI REND="italics">us.</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, January</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Carried my baggage on board the brig <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:, Captain James Fairfowl, bound from Philadelphia to San Francisco, California.  At eleven o'clock, P.M., bade adieu to wife, child and friends, and went on board the brig to spend the night, expecting to sail early the next morning.  The weather being cold, and no fire in cabin or steerage, I slept very little during the night.  Two brothers of the name of Kelly, companions <HI REND="italics">en voyage</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At eight o'clock, A.M., the City Ice-boat made fast to the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:, and we were soon passing slowly down the Delaware.  In consequence of the early hour at which we got under way, not more than one-half of our passengers were on board when the Ice-boat made fast to us.  We had not, however, gotten fairly into the stream, before the belated passengers might be seen at different points along the wharves, swinging their hats and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:caps, and yelling at the highest pitch of their voices for the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The following is a list of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola's</HI>
149.sgm: passengers: Dr. Cassady, William Bassett, W. H. Bunn, Wm. Freed, H. W. Gillingham, C. H. Bennett, J. Slaughter, A. Mecartney, W. McPherson Hill, George Guier, Jr., M. D., John A. Lessig, Pat. Langton, George W. Hart, C. W. H. Solinsky, Abram Powell, Wm. H. Graham, John E. Wain-wright, G. H. Weaver, T. P. Kleinhaus, W. Wack, T. P. Dougherty, T. B. Butcher, Wm. Butcher, T. H. Russell, S. K. Harman, Samuel Christ, H. B. Good, J. J. Cowden, J. A. Banks, Samuel C. Upham, Amos S. Kelly, Chas. S. Kelly, J. W. Folwell, T. J. Folwell, J. M'Clelland, David L. Munns, E. Boehme, Henry Prior, H. Shoenfield, H. Courvoisier, F. Dekirt, W. Arnold, J. Falls, John A. McCoy, J. Kellum, William Beenkin, C. Beenkin, F. Miller, J. Kimmell, J. Moore, J. Kepheldt, F. Kline, H. Limberg, J. Hortsman, Hugh Brady, J. Hewdegan, George Dreka, John Heyberger, T. S. Berger, Wm. Fetters, George Wilson, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>At seven o'clock, P.M., we arrived at New Castle, Del., where we made fast alongside the wharf for the night.  During the evening a majority of the passengers went on shore for the purpose of having a jollification, prior to a six months' cruise at sea.  They came on board about two o'clock next morning as mellow as peaches, and several of them will remember for a long time the last night on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At seven o'clock, A.M., the Ice-boat got under way, and we proceeded down the river.  At seven o'clock, P.M., we cast off and came to anchor inside the Delaware Break-water, with thirty-five fathoms of chain.  The Ice-boat, in coming alongside with Captain Fairfowl, ran into us and stove our larboard main-rail badly.  Passengers have been busily engaged during the afternoon writing letters to their wives, sweethearts and friends, with a view to sending them on shore by the pilot, who is expected to leave us to-night.  After several efforts, I finally succeeded in scribbling a note to my wife, using my hat-box for a writing-desk.  Weather cloudy and very cold.  Wind S.W.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At half-past eleven o'clock, A.M., weighed anchor and stood out to sea, and at twelve o'clock, M., discharged the pilot.  On <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:leaving the brig he received three hearty cheers from the passengers, and when his boat receded from our view the last link that bound us to <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Wind still fair, but the weather is cloudy and cold.  Of the sixty-five passengers, all are sea-sick with the exception of three.  The lee-rail is completely lined with demoralized passengers, who are paying their tribute to old Neptune.  Those who are not able to pay their respects to the deity of the great deep over the rail, are casting up their accounts in buckets, wash-basins and spittoons.  In consequence of the coldness of the weather, I remained in my berth all day.  Considerable excitement was caused to-day in consequence of the man at the wheel being found slightly inebriated.  This led to an investigation of the matter, and in searching the forecastle a jug of whisky was found in the chest of one of the sailors, which the Captain ordered thrown overboard.  Distance sailed, 184 miles.  Latitude 37&deg; 47'.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This morning wind light and baffling, being barely sufficient to keep the brig steady.  At ten o'clock, A.M., passed the ship <HI REND="italics">St. Louis</HI>
149.sgm:, bound west.  Sea-sick passengers look better this morning.  Those that are able to crawl out of their berths are on the poop-deck taking the benefit of a little sunshine.  D. L.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Eight o'clock, A.M.  The wind has been blowing a perfect gale from S.S.E. since midnight; brig laboring and straining very much, and shipping heavy seas.  Owing to the rough weather, the passengers are nearly all sea-sick again.  No cooking and but little eating done to-day in consequence of the galley having been unshipped by a heavy sea.  Distance sailed, 128 miles.  No observation.  Therm. at M. 27&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Wind still continues blowing fresh from S.S.E., accompanied by rain.  Cook's galley fitted up to-day; started a fire, and the cook commenced operations in the culinary line.  The steerage passengers complain bitterly of a scanty allowance of food, also of the manner in which it is cooked.  A small codfish and two dozen potatoes were served up to-day for dinner for thirty-six steerage passengers.  This circumstance being reported to the Captain, he promises that all shall be right on this score hereafter.  Distance sailed, 116 miles.  Lat. 35&deg; 53".  Therm. at M. 26&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, Jan.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Seven o'clock, A.M.  Fine breeze from the N.E., which enables the brig to lay her course and make about eight knots an hour.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Wind from the north; brig rolls lazily over the water, making little headway.  Have been visited to-day by rain and sunshine, alternately.  Several of the steerage passengers have spread their mattresses and blankets on deck for the purpose of drying them in the sun.  Owing to the leaky condition of the deck, the upper tier of steerage berths have been saturated with water since leaving Philadelphia.  The Captain and second mate had an altercation this morning, in which they called each other everything but gentlemen.  This war of words ended by the Captain sending the mate below and putting him off duty.  Passed three vessels during the day.  Distance sailed, 157 miles.  Lat. 34&deg; 11'.  Therm. at M. 28&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Fine breeze from the N.E. and weather clear.  All sails set by the wind.  The steerage passengers still complain of their accommodations.  They have been grossly imposed upon by Burling &amp; Dixon, owners of the brig.  A large portion of the steerage is occupied with freight and luggage belonging to the cabin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout the last twenty-four hours heavy squalls accompanied by rain.  Brig laboring and straining very much, and shipping heavy seas.  The jib was split to-day during a severe squall.  The steerage passengers assisted the crew in shortening sail.  The <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Gale still continues with increased violence.  Top-sails double-reefed; sea running very high and brig straining badly.  In the afternoon, the crew commenced shifting deckload, which was somewhat wet and damaged.  Found that the water in one cask had entirely leaked out, and another cask was only one-third full.  Burling &amp; Dixon, in their hurry to get the brig to sea, caused the water-casks to be filled without having the hoops tightened, hence the result.  If the casks in the hold are in the same condition as those on deck, we shall most certainly be on a short allowance of water in the tropics.  Distance sailed, 72 miles.  Lat. 30&deg; 41'.  Therm. at M. 36&deg;.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Morning, wind light and baffling; meridian, wind has died away and it is nearly a dead calm.  Afternoon, light squalls accompanied by rain.  For several days past, a few of the steerage passengers have been in favor of having their rations weighed out, while others have opposed the measure.  This morning the Captain gave the first mate orders to serve out naval rations to the steerage passengers until further orders.  Passengers and crew served with water this morning--three quarts to each person.  This afternoon the crew removed the "iceboards" from the bow of the brig.  Distance sailed, 31 miles.  Lat. 30&deg; 52'.  Therm. at M. 40&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At daylight this morning the wind suddenly increased to a gale.  We were compelled to hard-up the helm in order to get the canvas off the brig.  At eight o'clock, A.M., hove to under close-reefed maintop-sail and stay-sail, with a heavy sea running, which caused the brig to strain very much. to add to our peril, the forward cabin now began to work with the strain of the deck-load.  The safety of the brig compelled the Captain to give orders to heave overboard the principal part of the deck-load to ease her.  With the exception of a few ship's stores, it belonged to the passengers, and consisted of provisions, brandy, house-frames and gold-washers.  Unfortunately, several of the passengers had their entire freight on deck, consisting of provisions for their subsistence in California.  Poor fellows! they will be in a sad plight on arriving in San Francisco, almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:penniless and without provisions.  The throwing overboard a cargo at sea for the purpose of saving the ship is anything but agreeable when nothing but a plank separates one from eternity.  During the gale the following ludicrous incident occurred: While all hands, passengers and crew, were busily engaged staving in the heads and throwing overboard brandy, molasses and vinegar casks, a fellow-passenger, who had <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Done the State some service"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>during the late war with Mexico, and being withal a great lover of whisky, caught up from off the deck both hands full of a mixture of brandy, molasses, vinegar and salt water, and after taking a hearty swig, exclaimed, " <HI REND="italics">Jimminy, boys, this is first-rate swankey</HI>
149.sgm:<P>While the casks composing the deck-load were waltzing to one of the tunes of old Boreas, the two ship's boys and one of the passengers had their propellers slightly injured.  Distance sailed, 116 miles.  Lat. 31&deg; 45'.  Therm. at M. 44&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, Jan</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Went on deck at six o'clock this morning and found the gale still raging; brig under close-reefed sails.  The main-hatch was broken out to-day for the purpose of getting at the water, all on deck having been used.  In consequence of the leaky condition of the casks, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Owing to the crowded state of the brig, the accommodations in cabins and steerage are miserable.  The passengers belonging to the latter, in particular, have been shamefully imposed upon by the owners, as the following facts will fully demonstrate:--</P>
149.sgm:<P>When the steerage berths were taken, a table was fitted up for the use of the passengers, at which thirty persons could be comfortably seated, and the steerage was tolerably well lighted by skylights.  When the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: was on the eve of leaving the port of Philadelphia, the table and seats were removed by order of the owners of the brig, and the space occupied by them stowed with cases chests and trunks, a large portion of which belonged to the cabin passengers; consequently, the steerage passengers have been compelled to mess on chicken-coops, pig-pens, water-casks and trunks, subjected to almost every imaginable inconvenience.  In fact, the brig has been a perfect <HI REND="italics">Hades</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, Jan.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Went on deck this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Eight o'clock, A.M., fine breeze from W.S.W. and clear.  Studding-sails set below and aloft, and brig making eight knots an hour, which is all we can get out of the old tub.  This being duff-day, the flour and raisins were served out last evening to the caterers of the steerage messes for their duff.  The ingredients were accordingly mixed and taken to the cook last evening in order that they might be put into the coppers early this morning to boil for dinner; but the boys, on going to the galley for their coffee, were taken all aback by the cook's presenting them with their duff <HI REND="italics">for breakfast</HI>
149.sgm:, piping hot, a mistake chargeable to the misplaced zeal of the son of a sea-cook!  The circumstance was reported to the Captain, who gave the cook orders in future not to <HI REND="italics">boil duff for breakfast</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This is my birthday.  Thirty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:years old to-day.  Have been a rolling-stone all my life, consequently have gathered no moss.  Am now in search of "the golden fleece," and may return shorn.  <HI REND="italics">Nous verrons</HI>
149.sgm:!  At eleven o'clock last night the wind commenced blowing a gale from N.N.E.  At twelve o'clock split foretop-sail; soon after sent down royal-yards and hove the brig to.  At eight o'clock this morning repaired top-sail and let the close reef out of the maintop-sail.  At meridian, the storm abated somewhat, but the sea is still running very high, causing the brig to labor heavily and ship an occasional sea.  Commenced reading to-day a work entitled "WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA," by Edwin Bryant, in which I am deeply interested.  Mr. Bryant traveled the overland route to California, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm: Independence, Missouri; and I regret very much that I did not take the same route in preference to this, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm: Cape Horn.  Descriptions of a "life on the ocean wave" read very prettily on shore, but the <HI REND="italics">reality</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Went on deck at six o'clock this morning, found the reefs all let out and the light sails set; brig sailing six knots an hour.  The wind continuing fair in the afternoon, the Captain ordered the larboard topmast and top-gallant studding-sails set, which caused the brig to bound merrily over the water, shortening the distance between us and the golden land to which we are bound.  God grant that we may have a safe and speedy passage to our port of destination, and that, on our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>To-day, wind light and baffling, but the weather is delightfully pleasant.  Being religiously inclined I borrowed a Bible from a fellow-passenger--not being provided with one my-self--read a chapter, and cogitated in my mind a sermon suited to the occasion.  I regret exceedingly that I did not bring a Bible and Prayer-Book with me, for I expect to do my own preaching during the next two years.  California will probably be better supplied with mosquitoes than ministers.  Distance sailed, 125 miles.  Lat. 29&deg; 55'.  Therm. at M. 67&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Fine breeze from W.S.W., weather clear and pleasant.  Passengers assisted the crew in breaking out the main-hold for water and provisions.  Found the water in two of the casks nearly half leaked out, which fully confirms in my mind a previously-expressed opinion that we shall run short of fresh water before reaching Rio de Janeiro.  Several of the passengers have already become weary of a sea voyage, and have been talking very strongly to-day of leaving the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: at Rio, crossing the Andes to Valparaiso, and awaiting there the arrival of the brig, thus avoiding the passage around Cape Horn.  I consider the project an insane one, one which I would not attempt for any earthly consideration, and shall use my best endeavors to dissuade others from hazarding their lives in an undertaking so futile and foolhardy.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:The distance across from Rio to Valparaiso is far greater than at any other point on the continent of South America, and the journey would be attended with incredible hardship and suffering.  Having paid my passage to San Francisco on board the brig <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This morning, at daylight, weather fair with a fresh breeze from N.N.E.  The brig is making nine knots an hour, which is something remarkable for her, and all hands, including the cook, feel jolly.  At ten o'clock, A.M., we exchanged signals with a French brig steering N.N.W.  The crew, assisted by the passengers, broke out the main-hold again to-day in search of water.  More leaky casks found, in consequence of which the Captain has put all hands on an allowance of five pints of water to each person.  Yesterday, we struck the "trades," in longitude 37&deg; 20'.  Distance sailed, 182 miles.  Lat. 26&deg; 31'.  Therm. at M. 71&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout to-day, fresh breeze from N.E., with occasional squalls and light rain.  The cabin passengers have been growling for some time about their miserable accommodations, and to-day have declared war to the knife.  They have resolved to hold an indignation meeting, and on their arrival at Rio de Janeiro to report the proceedings with their grievances to the American consul at that port, and ask his interference in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:matter.  they swear by all the saints in the calendar that the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: shall not leave Rio until matters are adjusted to their entire satisfaction.  Both cabin and steerage passengers have much cause for complaint, and I sincerely hope that justice may be done to all on board before the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We crossed the Tropic of Cancer to-day and may expect excessively hot weather until we cross Capricorn.  Last evening an altercation occurred between the Captain and first mate, Mr. Howell, in relation to the pumps, which resulted in the latter being put off duty.  During the controversy they were not very choice in their selections from the King's English.  The opinions of the passengers, in relation to this matter, appear to be about equally divided, although I am inclined to the belief that were a vote of all on board registered, a majority would be found in favor of the mate.  To-day we have been favored with a fair breeze from the north-east, and all drawing sails have been set.  Distance sailed, 176 miles.  Lat. 22&deg; 15'.  Therm. at M. 71&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The weather this morning is as clear and balmy as a May morning in Philadelphia, and the brig is gliding along at the rate of eight knots an hour.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In consequence of the first mate being off duty, the first watch last night was kept by one of the passengers, who in early life had served on board a man-of-war.  There is nothing, in my opinion, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:more essential to the safety of a vessel and the lives of her passengers than harmony among her officers.  The Captain and mates of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A brig, supposed to be the <HI REND="italics">Oniota</HI>
149.sgm:, bound for San Francisco, which sailed from Philadelphia five days ahead of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:, has been on our weather-quarter, five miles distant, during the afternoon, but we are now rapidly leaving her astern.  We are to-day in the latitude of the Cape de Verde Islands, and about thirty hours' sail, <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Went on deck at seven o'clock this morning, and found the weather delightfully pleasant.  The brig is being wafted along by the trade-winds at the rate of eight knots an hour.  The Captain flogged one of the sailors this morning for a trifling misdemeanor, and the passengers have been gathered in knots about the deck, during the forenoon, discussing the matter.  The majority appear to be opposed to corporeal punishment, but are willing to admit that the safety of the brig depends on the maintenance of strict discipline.</P>
149.sgm:<P>During the twenty-four hours ending at twelve o'clock, M., to-day, the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: has sailed 205 miles, being a greater distance than she has made during any previous day since leaving the Capes of the Delaware.  Three cheers for the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:!  She <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Although it has been hazy to-day, the weather has not been oppressive in consequence of the trade-winds, which in this latitude are bracing and invigorating.  This morning, Mr. Howell, the first mate, presented me with a Bible, for which I feel very grateful.  Law and physic have several votaries on board the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Cruising in the tropics--Cabin passengers have a jollification--Cross the equator--Visit the bark <HI REND="italics">Croton</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monday, February</HI>
149.sgm:<P>As we were nearing the head-quarters of old Neptune yesterday afternoon, a letter addressed to His Highness was thrown overboard by one of his subjects, informing him that there were several candidates for initiation on board the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The weather is as warm today as it is in Philadelphia in midsummer, and were it not for the trade-winds the heat would be very oppressive.  To-day the caterers of the steerage messes made a complaint to the Captain in relation to the quality and quantity of provisions received by them from the cook.  He has promised to provide the steerage passengers with a cook and galley, on the arrival of the brig at Rio.  If this promise is not adhered to, a full report of our grievances will be made to the American consul.  Distance sailed to-day, 225 <HI REND="italics">miles</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Owing to the excessive heat, I slept very little last night, and throughout the day the weather has been very oppressive.  Several of the passengers remained on deck last night rather than submit to a vapor-bath in their berths.  Took a salt-water bath this evening, and feel very much refreshed.  Distance sailed, 184 miles.  Lat. 4&deg; 41'.  Therm. at M. 82&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>When I went on deck, at six o'clock this morning, the wind was light and baffling, with every indication of a calm.  The brig has not made more than four knots an hour during the night.  At twelve o'clock, M., it was nearly a dead calm, and the sails flapped lazily against the masts.  In the afternoon we had a light fall of rain, accompanied by baffling breezes.  This forenoon saw a hermaphrodite brig steering south by west, probably bound for Rio de Janeiro.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:afternoon ran in a school of skip-jacks, a species of the finny tribe found in abundance in this latitude.  They are about two feet in length when full grown, very plump, and of a deep purple color.  The morning watch was kept by one of the ship's boys-- <HI REND="italics">a juvenile watch officer</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We have been becalmed all day within one hundred miles of the equator.  Last night the weather was so excessively hot that a majority of the passengers slept on deck.  During the night, four of the first cabin passengers, not having the fear of " <HI REND="italics">delirium triangles</HI>
149.sgm: " before their eyes, took it into their heads to have a jollification.  They made night hideous with their drunken revelry, to the great annoyance and disgust of those who were more quietly disposed.  To cap the climax, one of the revelers had an attack of <HI REND="italics">mania a potu</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We are still north of the equator, having been becalmed during last night and this forenoon.  I slept on top of the cabin last night with nothing but the canopy of heaven for covering.  Early this morning the mate caught an albicore, being the first fish caught with a hook and line during the passage, although several lines have been trailing over the stern of the brig the past ten days.  During the last week we have seen small fish in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>It rained incessantly throughout last night.  It seemed as though the flood-gates of heaven had been opened especially for our benefit.  The rain ceased at daylight, and a fresh breeze from W.S.W. has enabled us to glide along at the rate of seven knots an hour this forenoon.  During the night we caught a barrel of rain-water, which has enabled the passengers to indulge in the luxury of a <HI REND="italics">fresh-water wash</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Another dead calm throughout to-day.  It seems as though we were never to get out of the "horse latitude."  Yesterday evening a bark was discovered to the windward heading for Rio.  Early this morning we exchanged colors with her, and at ten o'clock, A.M., our stern boat was lowered and manned with passengers, for the purpose of boarding her.  At one o'clock, P.M., our boat returned with a dozen passengers from the stranger, which proved to be the bark <HI REND="italics">Croton</HI>
149.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:Captain D. V. Souillard, which sailed from New York on the 16th ultimo, bound for San Francisco, with fifty-four passengers on board.  During the afternoon, the boats of both vessels have been busily engaged carrying the passengers to and fro.  Some fifteen or twenty of the <HI REND="italics">Croton's</HI>
149.sgm: passengers dined with us, and about the same number of our passengers partook of a collation on board that vessel.  The wine bottle passed merrily around, and wit, sentiment and song imparted zest to the scene.  Mirth and hilarity reigned pre-eminent, and everything went as <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Merry as a marriage bell,"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>until toward night one of our passengers, who had imbibed too much whisky, kicked up a row on board the <HI REND="italics">Croton</HI>
149.sgm:, which resulted in his being brought on board the brig by his shipmates and placed in durance.  The accommodations of the passengers on board the <HI REND="italics">Croton</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The brig's awning was spread to-day for the first time during the passage, although for the past ten days we have, when on deck, been exposed to the broiling rays of a tropical sun.  We are still within one degree of the equator, having made only five minutes of latitude during the past twenty-four hours.  In consequence of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>This morning one of the passengers caught a shark seven feet in length, and in less than twenty minutes after having been landed on deck, he was literally "used up."  Never was a shark more thoroughly dissected.  His vertebr&aelig; were cut out and divided among the passenger, each receiving a joint as a memento of his sharkship.  Distance sailed, <HI REND="italics">only eight miles</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Since sunrise we have been favored with a light but fair breeze from E.S.E.  God grant that it may continue until we reach Rio.  Yesterday morning, I was appointed one of a committee of three to present to Captain Fairfowl a petition signed by fifty-one of our passengers, protesting against the first mate's watch being kept by incompetent persons, thereby endangering the lives of all on board; also requesting in respectful terms the restoration of the first mate to duty.  This afternoon a written reply was received from the Captain, stating that he hoped to reach Rio in safety, but would not comply with our request in relation to the mate, refusing in positive terms to restore him to duty so long as he (the Captain) "breathed the breath of life."</P>
149.sgm:<P>The sun being obscured to-day, the old skipper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night, at twelve o'clock, we made the south-east "trades," and to-day we have been skimming along at the rate of six knots an hour.  In consequence of the excessively hot weather, and want of exercise, two of the first-cabin passengers have had an attack of the <HI REND="italics">rabies</HI>
149.sgm:, and not having the fear of man before their eyes, have concluded to have coffee and pistols for two served up on their arrival in Rio. A challenge has been given and accepted, and all the preliminaries arranged by the seconds, to the apparent satisfaction of both parties.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"It has a strange, quick jar upon the ear,<LB>That cocking of a pistol, when you know<LB>A moment more will bring the sight to bear<LB>Upon your person, twelve yards off, or so;<LB>A gentlemanly distance, not too near,<LB>If you have got a former friend or foe;<LB>But after being fired at once or twice,<LB>The ear becomes more Irish, and less nice."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>To-day being the anniversary of the birth of Washington, the ensign and pennant of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: have been flying in the breeze since daylight this morning.  At meridian, a salute with small-arms was fired by the passengers in honor of the day, and several National airs were played by the "El Dorado Band."  During the afternoon, speeches appropriate to the occasion were delivered by five of the passengers.  The jubilee was kept up until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Fair wind continues.  Brig making seven knots an hour.  In compliance with the Captain's request, I have to-day written out a list of provisions for thirty-six steerage passengers for seventeen weeks, as per scale of U.S. Naval rations, and, on our arrival at Rio, he has promised to purchase such provisions as are deficient, in order to complete the list.  An altercation occurred this morning between the Captain and several of the steerage passengers in relation to their ration of Irish potatoes.  The Captain and steerage passengers are continually at loggerheads.  Scarcely a day passes without a shindy being kicked up between them.  Saw two vessels to-day to leeward; one a brig bound south, the other a Belgian bark homeward bound.  Distance sailed, 200 miles.  Lat. 5&deg; 43'.  Therm. at M. 84&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The atmosphere is clear to-day, and the weather as balmy as a June day in Yankee land.  The trade wind is wafting us along at the rate of eight knots an hour.  The skirmish that commenced yesterday between the Captain and the steerage passengers, in relation to potatoes, assumed a more warlike aspect this morning, and the old skipper has given orders to the cook to cook no more potatoes for the steerage passengers.  He also said he would throw the potatoes overboard rather than have them served to the steerage messes.  This last straw has broken the camel's back, and a spirit of indignation prevails throughout the brig in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:regard to Captain Fairfowl's treatment of the steerage passengers.  He is a sea-tyrant, and totally unfit to command a passenger vessel.  The dinner for the steerage passengers to-day consisted of <HI REND="italics">boiled codfish and hard tack</HI>
149.sgm: --all told!  If a more <HI REND="italics">rascally</HI>
149.sgm: dinner was ever placed before a like number of <HI REND="italics">Christians</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The trade winds continued throughout last night and this forenoon.  Sunday has proved a very lucky day to me ever since leaving Philadelphia.  Two weeks ago to-day, I was presented with a Bible, and to-day a fellow-passenger of the name of Patterson, a relative, I presume, of Billy P. of pugilistic memory, presented me with an Episcopal Prayer-Book, which I have been reading nearly all day.  Should I have the good luck to obtain a Hymn Book before reaching California, I shall, on my arrival in that far-off land, possess the requisite documents for commencing the profession of itinerant preacher.  This afternoon, one of the steerage passengers shot a ganet as it was flying over the brig, but it fell overboard and was lost.  The ganet is of the fish-hawk genus, and in size and color of plumage resembles that bird very closely.  The potato war that raged with so much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Our water, which has been remarkably good until within the past few days, is undergoing the process of fermentation, which renders it very unpalatable.  The potato war broke out again to-day, in consequence of no dinner being cooked for the steerage passengers.  The circumstance was reported to the Captain, who imputed the fault to the cook, and he in return swore point-blank that he had received no orders to cook dinner for the steerage passengers!  The dinner, however, was ordered to be cooked, and, at the fashionable hour of four o'clock, P.M., we dined on bean soup and pork, confident in the belief that a late dinner was better than no dinner at all.  The brig has been steering her course to-day at the rate of seven knots an hour.  During the day we have sighted four vessels; two bound north-east, and with one, an American whaler, homeward bound, we exchanged colors.  One of the other vessels was bound south-east, for the Cape of Good Hope; the other was a bark, bound north-east, with her we exchanged colors, but could not make out her nationality.  Distance sailed, 170 miles.  Lat. 12&deg; 50'.  Therm. at M. 84&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind has been very light to-day, causing the brig to "make haste very slowly."  During the last three days all hands have been elated with the idea of reaching Rio on Sunday next, but we shall most certainly be disappointed unless favored with a stronger breeze than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, Feb</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last day of February and fifty-three days at sea!  Rio not reached yet.  Since sunrise, this morning, the brig has been rolling lazily along, scarcely making three knots an hour, which does not look much like reaching Rio this week.  Captain Fairfowl has experienced a very sudden change of heart!  Yesterday afternoon full naval rations, with the exception of cheese, were served to the steerage passengers, for the first time since leaving Philadelphia.  We received no cheese for the very best of reasons--there was none on board the brig.  The Captain has promised the steerage passengers full naval rations when they arrive at Rio, if the articles of which we are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>Our cook is possessed of a devil as large as a ground-hog.  The soup for the steerage passengers was served up to-day in the following novel manner: A large boiler, from the galley, was placed in the lee gangway, exposed to the broiling rays of the sun, and the passengers were called to help themselves as best they could.  This scene reminds me of one witnessed in a Spanish barracks, at Port Mahon, in the Mediterranean, where the soldiers were marched up to a large kettle of soup, and the foremost after partaking of three spoonfuls fell back, and the person next to him advanced for his share of the spoils, and so on in turn, until all were served.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This morning, a committee of three, consisting of Dr. George Guier, Jr., T. B. Butcher and S. C. Upham, was appointed by the passengers to wait on Captain Fairfowl, state their grievances, and request that they be remedied by him on the arrival of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the arrival of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: in Rio, a waiter shall be shipped to attend to the wants of the first and second cabin passengers; a galley shall be erected and a cook shipped exclusively for the steerage passengers; a table shall also be fitted up in the steerage for their especial use and benefit, and stores shall be purchased to complete the full <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During yesterday and to-day the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This morning the rain poured down in torrents, accompanied by thunder and lightning.  Just before the storm commenced two jack-o'-lanterns paid us a visit.  One was stationed on the maintop-gallant-yard-arm, and the other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Early this morning a brown butterfly and a small land-bird came on board, and their visit was hailed with pleasure by all hands.  The butterfly was retained a prisoner, but the little bird, after fluttering about the masts and rigging a few moments, bade us adieu, and turning his head in the direction of the land, was soon lost to view.  During to-day the surface of the water has been covered with a green substance, not unlike that which may be seen on a frog-pond.  The sperm-whale is said to subsist on this floating scum.  If so, I imagine they will never be troubled with dyspepsia or gout in consequence of high diet.  This afternoon a sail was reported on our weather-bow, heading the same direction with us.  Distance sailed, 130 miles.  Lat. 21&deg; 15'.  Therm. at M. 82&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Another severe rain-storm at three o'clock this morning.  At the commencement of the rain several of the passengers were asleep on top of the after-cabin, but they were compelled to take up their beds and walk.  The storm was succeeded by an eight-knot breeze, which we have carried all day.  Should this breeze continue until eight o'clock to-morrow morning, we shall make Cape Frio, which is seventy miles to the northward of Rio de Janeiro.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Two of the passengers, carpenters by profession, have been engaged during the day constructing a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A dead calm prevailed throughout last night and to-day.  Went on deck this morning at six o'clock and saw Cape Frio directly ahead, about thirty miles distant.  To the leeward of us lie the Papagayos, Anchor and St. Ann's Islands, Cape Busios, St. John's Hill and Cape St. Thomas.  Cape Frio, looming up in the distance, recalled vividly to mind recollections of my boyhood's home, in consequence of its close resemblance to the Camel's Hump, one of the highest peaks of the Green Mountain range.</P>
149.sgm:<P>During the afternoon the brig has drifted so near the shore that the light-house on Cape Frio can easily be discerned without the aid of a glass.  A half-dozen vessels can be seen from our deck, standing in the same direction with us.  A large green turtle was seen on our weather-bow early this morning, about thirty yards distant, making toward us with head erect.  When within fifteen yards of the brig he bade us adieu by shaking his head and <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Diving down below, down below."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Distance sailed, 35 miles.  Lat. 23&deg; 03'.  Therm. at M. 80&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night a light breeze sprang up from the north-west, which enabled us to double Cape Frio.  At daylight this morning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The passengers have been busily engaged to-day, shaving, shearing and clipping, which has called into requisition all the razors, scissors, hair-dyes, oils and pomades that can be mustered.  They are all desirous of captivating the dark-eyed <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
149.sgm: on their arrival in Rio.  In consequence of the disappointment occasioned by the <HI REND="italics">Osceola's</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We spoke a Brazilian brig this afternoon, bound out of Rio for Pernambuco, with an assorted cargo.  Distance sailed, <HI REND="italics">six miles</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At nine o'clock last night we made the light on Razor Island, at the entrance of the harbor of Rio.  We continued our course toward the light until two o'clock this morning, when the wind died away and left us within three miles of a rock-bound shore, which was being lashed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:furiously by the angry waves.  Fortunately, the tide set us off shore, and at daylight the roaring of the breakers was scarcely audible, although the coast for many miles in extent was distinctly in view.  Soon after daylight a light breeze sprang up, which enabled us to steer direct for the entrance to the harbor of Rio, which we entered at four o'clock, P.M., and after passing Fort Santa Cruz on the right and the battery at the base of the Sugar Loaf on the left, we dropped anchor about one and a half miles below the principal landing of the city, at five o'clock, P.M.  While passing up the harbor, we spoke the bark <HI REND="italics">Elvira</HI>
149.sgm:, of Boston, bound out for San Francisco, with sixty-three passengers.  Suspended from her main-stay, were several bunches of bananas, which looked very inviting, as I had not tasted fruit of any description for more than forty days.  As we passed Fort Santa Cruz, we were hailed in broken English by a Portuguese official, who thrust his curly head above the ramparts and bellowed through a dilapidated tin trumpet in a Boanergean voice.  What he said, we knew not and cared as little, and the reply of our Captain was probably received with like indifference.  The custom of hailing vessels from this fort is <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"More honored in the breach than in the observance."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The scene presented from the deck of a vessel on entering the harbor of Rio de Janeiro is unrivaled.  The most romantic imagination can picture nothing more magnificent than this beautiful harbor, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HARBOR OF RIO JANEIRO</P>
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149.sgm:surrounded by innumerable conical hills clothed to their summits with luxuriant tropical verdure, and the valleys dotted with beautiful white villas standing out in bold relief and contrast with the eternal green of the hills.  Our anchor was scarcely down, before the news-boat came alongside.  Soon after, we were visited by the Port Physician and the Custom-house officer.  They had scarcely left us, before half a dozen shore-boats were alongside manned by half-naked negroes and Portuguese.  The boats were soon filled to their utmost capacity by the passengers--scarcely a dozen remaining on board--and the word <HI REND="italics">vamose</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Immediately after landing, I went by invitation to the counting-house of Mr. Philip Hue, grocer and wine merchant, No. 14 Rua Direita, where I wrote letters to my friends in the United States.  A mail-bag was to leave on the following day, on board the bark <HI REND="italics">Hope</HI>
149.sgm:, Captain Hall, bound for Philadelphia.  Having finished my correspondence, I repaired to the Hotel Pharoux, accompanied by three friends, and ordered supper for four.  The supper, consisting of cold chicken, coffee and rolls, was soon dispatched and the bill called for, which was presented by a very pretty French bar-maid.  On examining the bill, I was thunder-struck!  It footed up, as I supposed, <HI REND="italics">seven dollars and eighty cents</HI>
149.sgm:!  I handed the bill to my companions, who exclaimed, simultaneously, "robbers! pirates! villains!"  I inquired for the proprietor of the hotel, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:for the purpose of ascertaining the price of chickens by the dozen.  If they were two dollars each cooked, I desired to learn the price of the <HI REND="italics">raw material</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>City of Rio de Janeiro--Visit to the market--Mode of nursing children in Rio--The Passeio Publico--Rare plants and flowers--Butchery of Santa Lucia--View of the city from Telegraph Hill--The Theatre San Januaria--Trick of the manager--A night on a dilapidated sofa--Emperor's church--Interior decorations--Yankee mercantile house in Rio--Visit to Praya Grande--The Frenchman and his orange grove--Visit to the Navy Yard--Scene at the guard-house--Convent of St. Benedict--Funeral ceremony--Mode of interment.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, March</HI>
149.sgm: 7.--Went on shore at eight o'clock, A.M., and after breakfasting at the Hotel Pharoux, visited the market-house, situated on the north side of Palace Square.  The walls of the market are composed of stone, rough-cast, and the interior forms a hollow square.  There are three arched gateways, or entrances, the principal of which, fronting Palace Square, is surmounted by an astronomical globe bearing a crown and cross, the Brazilian coat of arms.  The eastern portion of the market is occupied by the fish-mongers, and on their stalls is displayed the greatest variety of the finny tribe I have ever seen, and I question whether the fish-market of Rio is excelled in variety by any other in the world.  In the northern and western portions of the market are exposed for sale tropical fruits in all their varieties, and vegetables of various <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:kinds.  Most of the stalls are attended by female slaves, many of whom have their little ones lashed to their backs with a strip of cotton cloth.  The little pickaninnies remain as quiet in this position <illus entity="a149-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MODE OF NURSING CHILDREN IN RIO.</P>
149.sgm:<P>After having spent two or three hours in the market, I sauntered down toward the southern part of the city and visited the Passeio Publico, a beautiful square inclosed by a substantial stone wall ten feet high.  At the entrance, which is surmounted by a marble bust of the late queen, Donna Maria I, were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:stationed two guards, to whom I tipped my Panama on entering, and walked leisurely about for an hour, viewing the trees, plants and flowers growing here in all their splendor.  Among the trees under which I strolled were the genepa, tamarind, casuarina, bread-fruit, joboticaba and cocoa; and among the rare plants I noticed the spiral aloe unfolding its long sword-shaped leaves.  The flowers, of which there were many rare and beautiful specimens, were in square beds neatly arranged, and surrounded by a light and tasteful iron railing.  Between the stairs leading to the terrace, at the southern extremity of the Passeio Publico, is a granite fountain standing on the backs of two huge brazen crocodiles.  The terrace was decked with numerous urns and busts, and at the fountain a little leaden angel held by the tail a turtle of the same metal, from whose distended mouth issued a stream of pure fresh water into a marble reservoir beneath.  On either side of the fountain, a little to the northward, is a triangular obelisk of granite, about thirty feet high, on which is the following inscription:  " <HI REND="italics">Au saudad de Rio--au amor publico</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From the Passeio Publico, I went to the butchery of Santa Lucia, a block of low buildings bordering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The city of Rio is situated on the west side of the Rio de Janeiro, or River of January, about ten miles from its mouth or entrance into the ocean, and is surrounded on three sides by a range of conical hills, most of which are covered to their summits with fruits, flowers and luxuriant herbage.  In the dim distance can be seen the Organ Mountains, raising their majestic heads far above the clouds as if eager to kiss the blue vault of heaven.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GENERAL VIEW OF RIO JANEIRO.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>Rio is very compactly built, and with its suburbs contains nearly as many inhabitants as New York, but does not occupy as much ground as Philadelphia.  The streets, which are narrow, mostly cross each other at right angles.  There are in the city several public squares, or palazas, the principal of which are the Palace Square and the Campo Santa Anna, in each of which there is a public fountain, composed of granite and surmounted by the globe, crown and cross, the Brazilian coat of arms.  The Rua de Ouvidor, the Broadway of Rio, is scarcely three paces wide, without curb or sidewalks.  The buildings are composed of stone, with tile roofs, the walls rough-cast, and generally two stories high.  In this city, as well as in all Catholic countries, the cathedrals, convents and nunneries attract the attention of strangers.  I have to-day visited several of these institutions, and the cowled monks and veiled nuns have brought vividly to mind scenes from the "Mysteries of Udolpho" and the "Children of the Abbey."  The palaces of the Emperor are externally by far the most beautiful edifices in the city or suburbs.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In the evening I visited the theatre San Januaria, for the express purpose of seeing the Emperor and Empress of Brazil; but, for reasons best known to themselves, they did not appear in their box to be gazed at by the <HI REND="italics">los Americanos</HI>
149.sgm:.  The first part of the entertainment consisted of feats on the tightrope by the far-famed Ravel family, after which was performed a pantomime by the stock company, which amused me very much.  The after-piece <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:was a comedy, in the Portuguese language, not one word of which was intelligible to me.  At the close of the performance I went to a public-house near by, kept by a German, where I invested fifty cents for the privilege of <HI REND="italics">trying</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This morning, after breakfasting at the Hotel de Universe.  I visited the Emperor's church, on the west side of Rua Direita, near the palace.  An arched causeway or passage leads from the palace to the church, through which the Emperor, Empress and suite are admitted to mass.  Externally, the church has a very dingy appearance, but its interior arrangements are more pleasing to the eye.  As I crossed the threshold the first object that met my eye was one of the  emperor's guards, whose complexion was a shade lighter than the ace of spades, with a musket at his shoulder, and stationed near the altar, at which were a dozen priests and friars, with shaven heads and black gowns, ducking and bobbing around a large silver crucifix, placed in front of a wax statue of Him who died to atone for the sins of the world.  Worshipers of all ages, complexions and conditions were kneeling about the church and around the altar, there being no seats, saying mass.  The walls and ceiling of the church are elaborately carved and handsomely gilded, and on each side are niches, occupied by statues of the various saints of the calendar.  Around the church walls, near the ceiling, are suspended in gilt frames pictures of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>At ten o'clock, A.M., at the solicitation of Mr. Howell, our first mate, I accompanied him to the office of the American consul, for the purpose of hearing the charges to be preferred against him by Captain Fairfowl.  After listening to the charges and the mate's defense, the consul discharged him from the brig.  The captain and passengers of the ship <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the forenoon I visited the store of Messrs. Southworth &amp; Sands, of New York, who have recently established themselves in Rio.  The junior partner, is the son of Dr. Sands, of sarsaparilla fame, and their store is a curiosity-shop to the natives, it being a receptacle of all kinds of Yankee notions, from a jew's-harp to a Troy-built omnibus!  With the gentlemanly proprietors of this establishment I spent an hour very agreably, examining their stock of notions and chatting about matters in the United States.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In the afternoon it commenced raining, and after purchasing a few articles of tinware, for which I paid three times their value in the United States, I concluded to go on board the brig.  The market being on my route to the landing, I purchased a handkerchief full of oranges at half a cent each, which fully made up the loss incurred on tinware.  On arriving at the landing I was completely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:surrounded by the boatmen, anxious to row me off to the brig.  I paid an old Portuguese five "dumps," a copper coin a trifle larger than an American dollar, to take me on board the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I went on shore at eight o'clock, A.M., and after breakfasting at the Hotel Pharoux, joined a party of friends who were about visiting Praya Grande, a delightful little village on the east side of the harbor and directly opposite the city of Rio.  The preliminaries for our departure being arranged, we went to the ticket office at the  steamboat pier, purchased tickets, fare two dumps, and seating ourselves on board the boat, were landed in thirty minutes at the south or lower landing of Praya Grande.  On board the boat were several Brazilian ladies and gentlemen with their children and servants.  After landing we strolled along the beach toward the northern part of the town, passing on the way orange groves and several beautiful cottages.  From one of the latter issued the tones of a piano, which brought vividly to mind,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Home, sweet home."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Passing a cafe&tilde;, we were hailed in English by a dapper little gentlemen, who scraped and bowed like a French dancing-master.  We entered his cafe&tilde;, and after drinking a bottle of claret wine, engaged him as guide to accompany us during the remainder of the day.  At the foot of a mountain, at the extreme northern part of the town, we entered, by invitation, the garden of a Frenchman, once a resident of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>After leaving the cottage of the Frenchman, we stopped at a cafe&tilde; and lunched on coffee, rolls and rancid butter.  Price thirty-eight cents each.  Being ready to resume our peregrinations, we looked for our guide, and were informed by the proprietor of the cafe&tilde; that he had vamosed, for the purpose of enjoying his accustomed after-dinner <HI REND="italics">siesta</HI>
149.sgm:.  During the afternoon we visited St. Domingo, the southern suburb of Praya Grande, for the purpose of purchasing syrups and jellies, which we were told were manufactured by a confectioner at that place.  We strolled around until nearly night before we found the syrup and jelly establishment.  Every one of whom we inquired seemed to put us on the wrong track.  The jelly shop was kept by a French lady who had resided in New York and Philadelphia, and who spoke the English language fluently.  We purchased about twenty dollars' worth of her commodities at very reasonable prices.  We now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I went on shore this morning for the purpose of visiting the Brazilian Navy Yard, convent of St. Benedict and other places of interest.  At nine o'clock, A.M., accompanied by a party of friends, I passed up the Rua Direita, crossed the Rua Piscadore, entered the Navy Yard gate, and was soon in the midst of ship-carpenters, blacksmiths, boat-builders, armorers and machinists.  The Navy Yard is of an oblong form and occupies about as much ground as the United States Navy Yard at Philadelphia.  There is but one ship-house in the yard, where is being constructed a sloop of war which I learned had been on the stocks for three years.  In the boat-shed they were building several boats, some of which were beautiful models.  The building occupied by the machinists and blacksmiths appeared to have been recently constructed, and the lathes and other machinery were imported from England, the manufacturer's name and residence being stamped on each article.  In the blacksmith's shop we made the acquaintance of two of the workmen who spoke the English language--one a Scotchman, and the other a German, both of whom had visited the United States.  We next visited the shot and shell foundry, in which we saw several tons of shot just turned out of the moulds.  In the armory, the workmen were busily engaged manufacturing fire-arms for the use of the soldiers and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On approaching them we learned by gestures that the building was a guard-house, and two of its inmates were their husbands.  I looked through the grated door and saw several prisoners lying on a rough deal table, on which was standing a jug of water, and by its side were two or three loaves of brown bread.  This scene having convinced me that there were persons in this wicked world whose conditions were worse than my own, I turned from the prison and the females seated at the door, and ascending the hill of San Bempo by a crooked and roughly-paved walk, soon stood before the convent of St. Benedict.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The St. Benedict is one of the oldest convents in Rio, having been erected in 1761, as I learned from an inscription over the door of the main entrance.  On entering the convent, we were accosted by a monk who beckoned us to proceed to the second floor, which we reached by a heavy, antiquated flight of stairs, and passing to the left through a long, dimly-lighted hall, entered the choir, where we met a servant dusting the seats occupied by the jolly fat friars.  After examining the choir, the walls of which were nearly covered with scriptural paintings by the old masters, we went into the side galleries, from which we had a fine view of the interior of the church with its richly gilded and carved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Casting my eyes in the direction of the Emperor's church, I noticed a hearse drawn by six plumed horses coming to a halt in front of it.  Before I reached the church, the gold-laced coffin had been removed from the hearse and placed on a bier or altar in the middle of the floor, and the corpse exposed to view by opening the hinged lids.  On each side of the coffin were half a dozen priests and friars in black gowns trimmed with white, holding in their hands lighted wax candles four feet long and two inches in diameter, the lower ends resting on the tile floor and the tops inclining slightly forward.  There was also a long file of gentlemen dressed in black bearing <HI REND="italics">blazing wax candles</HI>
149.sgm:, on each side of the passage leading from the hearse to the bier, although it was broad <HI REND="italics">daylight</HI>
149.sgm:!  During the funeral ceremony, the officiating priest sprinkled holy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:water over the corpse several times from a silver instrument somewhat resembling a child's rattle; then shook over it a censer of burning incense, which diffused its odor through the church.  The ceremony being over, the priests retired from the church, and the gentlemen in black extinguished their candles and placed them in a rack.  Some left the church; others removed the coffin from the bier and carried it into the receptacle for the dead, a court attached to the church.  An excavation had been made in the wall, before which the coffin was placed and the lids again thrown open by the sexton.  Holy water and quicklime were now thrown upon the corpse by the mourners.  this part of the exercises being concluded, a requiem was chanted and the corpse left to be placed in the <HI REND="italics">hole in the wall</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Remained on shore during the night, and slept on the soft side of a billiard-table, all the beds in the hotel being double-banked.</P></DIV>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Visit to the museum--Precious stones, medals, etc.--Observance of the Sabbath in Rio--Washerwomen of the Campo Santa Anna-Visit to the Academy of Fine Arts--Paintings and sculpture--The Strangers' Burial-ground--Hotcorn women--American ladies bound for California--The Emperor's palace and garden--Visit to the latter--The Emperor's juvenile sports--Second night at the theatre--Dom Pedro II and Donna Therese--Slaves in Rio--Arrival of gold-dust from California--Arrival of the steamship Panama--News from home--California-bound vessels in Rio.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Among the minerals in the cases are ores of gold, silver, copper, carbonates, muriates, phosphates and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The specimens of the animal kingdom belong chiefly to the empire, and consist of the gray, black and scaly ant-eater, leopard, wolf, paca, guinea-pig, besides a great variety of the monkey tribe.  There is also a fine collection of sea-shells, bugs and butterflies.  The collection of birds is very large, mostly natives of Brazil.  Among them may be mentioned the parrot, goney, joao, grande, turdus-regius, pavao of Matogosso, crax-galiata and anherma unicorne, bemtivi, torecans and gulls.  The Brazilian reptiles are also largely represented, the boa constrictor and coral-horned crotalus being the most prominent.  Two live specimens of the former are at the entrance to the museum, on the first floor.  The specimens of fish are all dried preparations.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In the room containing the Chinese and Indian curiosities is a cabinet of gold, silver, brass, bronze and copper coins and medals.  Among the latter are likenesses of Marc Antony, Seneca, Cicero, Francis and Maria de Medicis, Cardinal Mazarin, Pope Innocent II, Henry IV of France, Marquis Cornwallis, George IV, Louis XVI, Maria Antoinette, Anne of Austria, Charles III of Spain, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On my return from the museum, I noticed that nearly all the stores and shops were open, and business was being transacted the same as on any other day of the week.  Carpenters and cabinet-makers were shoving the plane and saw, and the sons of St. Crispin were plying the thread and bristle as briskly as ever.  The inhabitants of Rio do not keep the Sabbath more holy than any other day of the week.  They generally attend mass in the morning, and act as fancy dictates during the remainder of the day.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Understanding that there was to be a bull-fight in the Campo Santa Anna in the afternoon, I repaired thither for the purpose of witnessing it, but for some unexplained reason it did not take place.  At the fountain in the Campo Santa Anna were a score of black wenches doing their week's washing, and the way they made the soap-suds and shirt-buttons fly was a caution to washing-machines!</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the forenoon I visited the Academy of Fine Arts, a large two-storied stone edifice, to which visitors are admitted free.  On the first floor are six ordinary sized rooms, which lead out of a spacious hall running lengthwise of the building.  The walls of three of the rooms are covered from floor to ceiling with paintings, most of which are portraits of distinguished persons and citizens.  There are several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>In the afternoon a party was made up, myself being one of the number, to visit the Strangers' Burial-ground, and the Emperor's Garden at St. Christoval.  Taking seats in the St. Christoval omnibus, in about thirty minutes we were set down near the entrance to the Strangers' Burial-ground, which is situated on the southern declivity of a hill facing an arm of the bay of Rio de Janeiro.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:The yard is inclosed by a substantial stone wall about ten feet high, and the principal entrance is through a ponderous iron gate, which was locked.  Our guide soon found the sexton, and we were admitted.  After sauntering about for an hour, viewing the tombstones and monuments of those who had fallen victims to disease in a foreign land, we passed out of the yard, and engaging a boat on the beach, were soon landed at St. Christoval.  On stepping from the boat, the first object that met my eye was an old negro woman seated on the ground near a small fire roasting Indian corn.  I purchased an ear, piping hot, and while eating it my thoughts reverted to Philadelphia and her hot-corn vendors.  Passing along a little further, we met an American lady and gentleman returning from the Emperor's Garden.  After a hearty shake of the hand all around, the lady informed us that herself and husband were passengers on board the ship <HI REND="italics">Architect</HI>
149.sgm:, from New Orleans bound for San Francisco.  She also informed us that there were five other lady passengers on board the <HI REND="italics">Architect</HI>
149.sgm:, two of whom had lost their husbands by cholera since their departure from New Orleans.  I requested her to console the widows with the fact that they were bound for a country where wives were scarce and husbands plenty.  I have no positive proof that my message was delivered; but I had the consolation of knowing that, as one of Job's comforters, I did my duty.  Each bidding the other adieu, and hoping to meet again in California, we parted, the lady and gentlemen returning to the city, and we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The garden attached to the palace is the most beautiful in the vicinity of Rio, and is about five miles in circumference.  Near the palace is a small lake, on the bosom of which the Emperor, when a flaxen-haired urchin, took his first nautical lessons, and the hull of his favorite yacht is still to be seen at the east end of the lake, high and dry on <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>There was also a great variety of roses in full bloom, which diffused a grateful fragrance through the garden.  As night was fast approaching, we passed through the eastern gate and soon reached the road leading to the city.  The omnibus not having arrived, we walked two miles before it overtook us, then getting on board, Jehu plied his whip to the mules in a lively manner, and we were soon rattling over the pavements of the city.  After supper, four of our party, myself among the number, engaged a private box at the theatre, and took our seats early for the purpose of witnessing the entre&acute;e into the royal box of their Majesties the Emperor and Empress of Brazil.  The Emperor's box is on the same floor as the second tier of boxes, and directly in front of the stage.  It extends from the floor of the second tier to the proscenium, and has a frontage of about fifteen feet.  In front was a damask curtain looped up on each side, and the box was surmounted by the Brazilian coat-of-arms handsomely gilded.  In the box were arranged arm-chairs for the use of the Emperor, Empress and suite.  At a quarter before nine o'clock, the Emperor, Empress, officers of the imperial house-hold and maids of honor made their appearance, the entire audience rising and remaining in that position until the imperial family were seated.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Emperor is an intelligent, modest-looking young man, twenty-four years of age, fully six feet high, with light-brown hair and whiskers, blue eyes and florid complexion.  He was dressed in a plain black suit, with no other insignia of royalty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The Empress is rather below the medium size, and looks somewhat older than her liege lord.  Her eyes are blue and complexion light; hair light auburn, curling beautifully around her neck and falling in graceful ringlets on her shoulders.  Her nose is large, which somewhat mars her features.  When walking she inclines slightly forward.  She wore a black satin dress with sleeves scarcely extending to the elbows, the edges of which, as well as the neck, were trimmed with lace edging.  She wore neither rings nor bracelets, and was one of the most democratic specimens of feminine royalty I ever expect to see.  The toilets of her maids of honor were gotten up more elaborately.  Having become weary of gazing on royalty and a Portuguese pantomime, I left the theatre at eleven o'clock, P.M., and engaged lodgings for the night at the Hotel Pharoux.</P>
149.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">Twenty-seven years later</HI>
149.sgm:.  After the lapse of more than a quarter of a century since the foregoing was written, I have had the pleasure of again seeing the Emperor and Empress of Brazil (this time during the Centennial year in my own country), and I am happy to say that my early impressions and predictions have been fully verified.  By his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:unostentatious and gentlemanly demeanor during his brief sojourn in the United States, Dom Pedro II has won "golden opinions" from all classes of men--snobs excepted!  His kindness to the California-bound passengers while in Rio will ever be held in grateful remembrance by the author of this humble tribute to a <HI REND="italics">great and good man</HI>
149.sgm:.<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The rank is but the guinea's stamp,<LB>The man's the gold for a' that."</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Vive la Dom Pedro II</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I went on board the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: early this morning, and found the sailors busily engaged breaking out the hold preparatory to receiving water on board.  I discovered among the cargo two barrels of pilot-bread belonging to myself with their heads stove in.  After coopering the bread barrels I went below and spent the remainder of the day writing to friends in the United States.  I also wrote a communication for the <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
149.sgm: over the signature of "S. Curtis"--my Christian name--giving a brief history of our voyage to this port, treatment of the passengers, etc., in which I went for the owners and captain of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The following passenger vessels from the United States bound for California, have put into this prot for provisions and water, during the past three months:</P>
149.sgm:<P>From New York.  Ships-- <HI REND="italics">Sutton</HI>
149.sgm:, 55 days; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DOM PEDRO II., EMPEROR OF BRAZIL.  From a Photo taken in Philadelphia, 1876.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Christoval Colon</HI>
149.sgm:, 51 days; <HI REND="italics">South Carolina</HI>
149.sgm:, 39 days; <HI REND="italics">Tarolinta</HI>
149.sgm:, 50 days; <HI REND="italics">William Ivey</HI>
149.sgm:, 42 days; <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
149.sgm:, 42 days; <HI REND="italics">Apollo</HI>
149.sgm:, 53 days.  Barks-- <HI REND="italics">Josephine</HI>
149.sgm:, 45 days; <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
149.sgm:, 52 days; <HI REND="italics">Harriet Newell</HI>
149.sgm:, 55 days; <HI REND="italics">Cordelia</HI>
149.sgm:, 39 days; <HI REND="italics">Peytona</HI>
149.sgm:, 54 days.  Brigs-- <HI REND="italics">Mary Stuart</HI>
149.sgm:, 42 days; <HI REND="italics">Eliza</HI>
149.sgm:, 43 days.  Schooners-- <HI REND="italics">Roe</HI>
149.sgm:, 39 days; <HI REND="italics">Olivia</HI>
149.sgm:, 48 days; <HI REND="italics">George Emory</HI>
149.sgm:, 43 days; <HI REND="italics">Joseph Newell</HI>
149.sgm:, 40 days; <HI REND="italics">Laura Virginia</HI>
149.sgm:, 38 days; <HI REND="italics">William G. Hackstaff</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From Boston.  Ship-- <HI REND="italics">Capitol</HI>
149.sgm:, 43 days.  Barks-- <HI REND="italics">Oxford</HI>
149.sgm:, 47 days; <HI REND="italics">Maria</HI>
149.sgm:, 57 days; <HI REND="italics">Elvira</HI>
149.sgm:, 47 days.  Schooner-- <HI REND="italics">Anonyma</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From Baltimore.  Ship-- <HI REND="italics">Jane Barker</HI>
149.sgm:, 42 days.  Schooner-- <HI REND="italics">Eclipse</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From New Orleans.  Ship-- <HI REND="italics">Architect</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From Norfolk, Va.  Brig-- <HI REND="italics">John Petty</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From New London, Conn.  Ship-- <HI REND="italics">Mentor</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From New Haven, Conn.  Schooner-- <HI REND="italics">Montague</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the forenoon I wrote several letters for the brig's cook and steward.  A part of the brig's stores came on board this morning, which on examination proved to be of an inferior quality.  The hams and bologna sausages were tainted and mouldy.  At eleven o'clock, A.M., the government water-tank came alongside, and we soon filled our water-casks, barrels and buckets with fresh water, which I hope will last until we reach San Francisco.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A Russian bark, bound for St. Petersburg, arrived in this port to-day direct from California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:and <HI REND="italics">reports eight barrels of gold-dust</HI>
149.sgm: on board, taken from the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
149.sgm:<P>After dinner I went on shore and deposited my letters in the letter-bag of a vessel which will sail for New York to-morrow.  While on shore I saw a negro who was afflicted with the elephantiasis, one of the most loathsome diseases imaginable, but quite common in this country.  His left leg was swollen to nearly the size of his body, and from the knee downward, protruded excrescences as large as English walnuts.  The skin of the diseased limb appeared rough and scaly, and several of the toes had dropped off the foot.  I saw others afflicted with this disease who had lost their lips and noses.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At sundown I purchased two bottles of wine for <HI REND="italics">medicinal purposes</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Ship-carpenters and sail-makers have been on board to-day, caulking the deck and repairing the old sails.  The mechanics here are mostly slaves, consequently they do not work very rapidly.  A Yankee mechanic would perform as much labor in one day as two slaves in the same length of time.  The slaves in this city <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:appear to be well treated and seem happy.  I asked several if they would like to return to Africa.  Their reply was: " <HI REND="italics">Me no like to go back to Africa among the nigger thieves</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I shaved myself to-day for the first time in two months, and, if my looking-glass does not deceive me, I look one hundred per cent. better than I did before performing the tonsorial operation.  Before I applied the razor to my face it would have puzzled a physiognomist to determine which I resembled most, a man or a monkey.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In the early part of this week I purchased a shot-gun, which I left with Messrs. Garrett &amp; Co., who are furnishing the sea-stores for the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:, and they promised to obtain a permit from the custom-house and send it off with the stores this morning.  The stores were sent on board the brig but the gun did not accompany them.  I engaged a boat from along-side the brig and went ashore to ascertain what had become of my gun.  Mr. Garrett informed me that when the stores were sent on board the gun was forgotten, which he regretted very much, and would send it on board the next morning.  Expecting to sail on the following day, I concluded to run the risk of carrying the gun on board myself.  I accordingly placed it on my shoulder, walked down to the boat, was soon on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>It has been raining incessantly during the greater part of last night and to-day.  During the storm last night two of our sailors deserted from the brig, bag and baggage.  Our Captain is very unpopular with the crew, as well as with the passengers, and I am fearful he will not be able to ship men in this port to fill the vacancies occasioned by the discharges and desertions from the brig.  We are now short two mates and three men before the mast.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The steerage passengers have learned that their table cannot be constructed unless they double-bank the second tier of berths and stow the lower tier with trunks and other baggage, in order to clear a space amidships for that purpose.  The passengers have all agreed to this arrangement, and to-morrow the table will be rigged up.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At one o'clock, P.M., the steamship <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
149.sgm:, Lieutenant-Commanding Porter, twenty-six days from New York, bound for San Francisco, put into this port for the purpose of taking on board coal, water and provisions.  The <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
149.sgm: is one of the line of Pacific Mail Steamers belonging to Howland &amp; Aspinwall of New York, and on her arrival in the Pacific will ply between Panama and the mouth of the Columbia River, touching at Acapulco, Mazatlan, San Francisco and intermediate ports.  By the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
149.sgm: we received New York papers of the 17th of February, being nearly a month later than previous accounts from the United <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:States.  The papers received were a New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm: and a <HI REND="italics">Police Gazette</HI>
149.sgm:, which after going the round of the brig were pretty thoroughly used up.  Captain Fairfowl came on board about eight o'clock, P.M., very much <HI REND="italics">fatigued</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I assisted in the steerage to-day, breaking out trunks and other baggage and arranging the table.  On examination we find that only twenty-six persons can be seated at the table at the same time; therefore, first come first served will be the order of exercises hereafter.  We have engaged one of the passengers to act in the capacity of steward during the remainder of the voyage, for which we agree to pay him one dollar each on our arrival at San Francisco.  We have inaugurated our new cook and new galley.  The former answers our expectations, but the latter has been tried and found wanting.  The boilers are too long.  They run through the plate or top of the galley so far that there is not sufficient space for fuel, and unless this defect is remedied we shall be compelled to eat badly-cooked food until we reach San Francisco.  The Captain has succeeded to-day in shipping a first and second mate and one man before the mast, which will enable us to put to sea to-morrow.  The following California-bound vessels, having taken on board water and provisions, sailed to-day: ships, <HI REND="italics">Capitol</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Jane Barker</HI>
149.sgm:; brig <HI REND="italics">John Petty</HI>
149.sgm:, and schooner <HI REND="italics">Laura Virginia</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Departure from Rio--Vessels bound for El Dorado--Auction sale at sea--A <HI REND="italics">pampero</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The ship <HI REND="italics">Architect</HI>
149.sgm:, bark <HI REND="italics">Harriet Newell</HI>
149.sgm: and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:brig <HI REND="italics">Mary Stuart</HI>
149.sgm:, bound for California, accompanied us to sea this morning.  At sundown the <HI REND="italics">Architect</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Mary Stuart</HI>
149.sgm: were five or six miles ahead of us, and the <HI REND="italics">Harriet Newell</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night a fine breeze sprang up from the eastward, which we have carried during the day.  When I went on deck this morning the <HI REND="italics">Harriet Newell</HI>
149.sgm: was the only sail to be seen, the <HI REND="italics">Architect</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Mary Stuart</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the forenoon an auction sale was held by one of the forward-cabin passengers for the purpose of disposing of sundry lots and parcels of nuts, fruits and candies, which, as caterer, he had purchased for his mess, but several members thereof being somewhat impecunious, he was compelled to resort to this expedient to reimburse himself for the amount expended for the articles.  Most of the goods sold at an advance of one hundred per cent. over their original cost, which left a large surplus in the pocket of the purchaser.  I had knocked down to myself a box of raisins, five pounds of almonds and three pounds of filberts.  The raisins, on examination, proved to be rather too highly spiced with bugs and worms to suit my taste, I therefore closed the box and put it up at raffle--eight chances, at twenty-five cents each.  I did not envy the winner of the prize.  I stowed the nuts in my hat-box, and flatter myself that for some time to come I shall have a dessert after each dinner of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and today we have been favored with an eight-knot breeze.  Now that the steerage passengers have a table to eat off of, they are no better satisfied than when messing on pig-pens, chicken-coops and water-casks.  One thinks his messmate has more elbow-room than himself at the table; another, that he is not treated by the steward with the same degree of attention as his companion; and others imagine that a seat at the head of the table is preferable to one lower down.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Early this morning the bark <HI REND="italics">Harriet Newell</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The breeze of yesterday continued throughout last night and this forenoon, and has placed us 200 miles nearer to San Francisco.  The two mates shipped in Rio have already become dissatisfied with the Captain, in consequence of his interference with their duty while in charge of the deck.  I predict that both will be relieved from duty before we arrive in California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At three o'clock, P.M., the western horizon became suddenly overcast with black clouds, and every indication of a <HI REND="italics">pampero</HI>
149.sgm: was visible.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At daylight this morning the storm having somewhat abated, the storm stay-sail was set and the brig put before the wind.  Other sails were set during the forenoon, but owing to the heavy sea, we have made very little progress.  The wind at the present writing is blowing very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Head-winds and cross-seas during the last twenty-four hours have prevented our making much progress toward our port of destination.  The <HI REND="italics">pampero</HI>
149.sgm:<P>While in Rio, two of our passengers purchased a monkey in copartnership, and his deviltry has kept them constantly at loggerheads with the Captain and mates.  This morning his monkeyship took possession of the nail locker, and the mate threatened him with decapitation should he visit it again.  This sanguinary threat having reached the ears of his owners, they informed the mate that they would like to be present when the operation was performed!  Distance sailed, <HI REND="italics">five miles</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At two o'clock this morning the wind hauled around to the north, which has enabled us to steer our course.  The sea to-day has been smoother and the brig has rolled less.  We are off the mouth of the River La Plata, and may expect at any moment to be visited by another <HI REND="italics">pampero</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This afternoon the owners of the monkey came to the conclusion that their pet was neither as agreeable a companion nor as profitable an investment as they first imagined, therefore they put him up at raffle, and he was won by the first mate.  Distance sailed, 154 miles.  Lat. 32&deg; 13'.  Therm. at M. 74&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind to-day has been light and baffling, and the brig has headed as many different ways as there are points of the compass.  The weather is becoming gradually cooler, and the breezes are bracing and invigorating.  Large flocks of gulls have been flying around the brig all day.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This afternoon a large shark, a regular man-eater, was observed following the brig at the distance of about twenty yards, which caused a lively time on board.  The shark-hook not being at hand, a mackerel-hook baited with pork was attached to a piece of marline and thrown overboard.  His shark-ship, after swimming around the bait several times, approached it cautiously and turning quickly on his side swallowed the hook with a yard of the line and disappeared beneath the water.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Considerable excitement was occasioned this afternoon in consequence of a melee between one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:steerage passengers, a Philadelphia b'hoy, and the second steward.  The former accused the latter of mixing the duff with water from the bathing-tub, which he said was <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A lie, a d--infernal lie,<LB>Upon his soul a lie!"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This somewhat excited the b'hoy's ire, and he gave the steward a blow alongside his visage which caused him to see stars at midday.  Distance sailed, 139 miles.  Lat. 34&deg; 08'.  Therm. at M. 68&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I went on deck at seven o'clock, A.M., and found the brig gliding briskly along with all drawing sails set.  Since yesterday, the water has changed from a dark green to a light blue color, but whether caused by the commingling of the water of the Rio de la Plata or other causes, I am unable to state.  This forenoon, while below writing, I heard a tremendous huzzaing on deck, and hurrying up I saw a short distance ahead of the brig a school of porpoises numbering several hundred, puffing, blowing, jumping, skipping and performing all manner of gymnastics.  After having amused us half an hour with their feats of agility, they made their exit, playing leap-frog over each other's backs.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At one o'clock this afternoon the brig was struck by a flaw of wind, which carried away her main-royal yard.  The broken yard was immediately sent down and a new one rigged and sent up.  A broken spar floated past us to-day, which had probably been lost by a vessel off Cape Horn.  We have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During to-day we have been surrounded by a thick fog, and the weather has been quite chilly.  Flannel shirts and drawers, cloth pants and coats, which have been stowed away during the past forty days, made their appearance on deck this morning, and judging from my own personal experience, they were very acceptable.  During the morning we had a fair but light breeze, which died away at one o'clock, and this afternoon the brig has been rolling and the sails flapping against the masts.</P>
149.sgm:<P>An albatross, measuring probably ten feet across its wings, has accompanied us all day, occasionally resting on the surface of the water for a few moments.  The Captain being in a very bad humor with himself this afternoon, and wishing to curdle the milk of human kindness in the breasts of others, has put all hands on an allowance of water.  Distance sailed, 189 miles.  Lat. 38&deg; 44'.  Therm. at M. 63&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind to-day has been blowing fresh from S.S.W., dead ahead, and the weather has been uncomfortably cold, the thermometer having fallen twenty degrees during the past four days.  If the mercury in the thermometer continues to fall in this ratio, it will be frozen in the bulb before we reach Cape Horn.  Those of the passengers who did not break out their flannels yesterday, have to-day donned their red shirts and California mining boots.  Owing to a strong head-wind the brig has rolled worse and shipped heavier seas <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Several of the passengers have been amusing themselves by shooting gulls, albatross and other sea-birds which have been hovering around the brig throughout the day.  All the birds killed fell overboard, not one was saved.  Distance sailed, 94 miles.  Lat. 40&deg; 12'.  Therm. at M. 55&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind has been nearly dead ahead all day, which has kept the brig six or seven points off her course.  The sea is smoother than it has been for several days past, but the weather is quite winterish.  The crew has been engaged to-day preparing the brig for Cape Horn.  The foretop-gallant-mast was condemned and sent down, and a new spar sent up in its place.  Sails split and torn since leaving Rio have been repaired, and everything made ready for the coming rough weather.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A hook and line baited with pork, was made fast to the stern-boat this morning for the purpose of catching albatross.  About ten o'clock, A.M., one was hooked, but broke loose before the line could be hauled in.  This afternoon, a school of whales, numbering forty or fifty, was discovered on our weather-quarter, distant about three miles.  They accompanied us until sundown, at about the same relative distance as when first discovered.  Distance sailed, 85 miles.  Lat. 39&deg; 29'.  Therm. at M. 53&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout to-day we have been favored with a fair wind, and the weather is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>This afternoon, the passengers have been gathered about the deck in knots amusing themselves by playing cards, dominoes, backgammon and checkers.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A humpbacked whale made his appearance this morning within 100 yards of the brig, and after blowing several times, shook the spray from his tail and disappeared.  Distance sailed, 29 miles.  Lat. 39&deg; 34'.  Therm. at M. 56&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, March</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind freshened gradually during the night, and throughout to-day has been blowing an eight-knot breeze, which is rapidly hastening us into colder weather.  The weather during the past week has been very much like that of New England in the month of October--cold, but bracing and invigorating.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At the commencement of the voyage, the thoughts of doubling Cape Horn in the winter caused <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Each particular hair to stand on end,<LB>Like quills upon the fretful porcupine;"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>but the nearer I approach it, the less danger I apprehend in doubling it.  We are now within 800 miles of Cape Horn, and the sea is as smooth as it was off the Cape de Verde Islands.  Should the sea remain smooth and the wind continue in the same quarter as now during the next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night, and up to meridian to-day, the wind has been light and baffling.  At one o'clock, P.M., the barometer fell suddenly, and strong indications of a storm were observable, which caused the Captain to shorten sail forthwith.  The men had scarcely laid down from aloft before we were struck by a white squall, which brought the brig down to her bearings and caused the spars and rigging to creak piteously.  The gale soon subsided, and we were again gliding briskly over a smooth sea.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The steerage steward informed the passengers this morning that they were to have "fritters" for dinner, which caused them to eat a light breakfast and wait impatiently for the anxiously wished-for meal.  At half-past twelve o'clock, the steward took his accustomed place at the steerage hatch, and placing his arms akimbo, cried out at the top of his voice: "Steerage passengers will please lay below and get their dinner!"  This summons had scarcely ceased echoing through the rigging, before two-thirds of the mess were below gazing upon an <HI REND="italics">empty table</HI>
149.sgm:.  After the rattling of boots on the ladder had ceased, the steward thrust his phiz below the hatch and asked the steerage gents if they were aware that the <HI REND="italics">first day of April</HI>
149.sgm: had arrived.  Some relished the joke, others preferred "fritters;" but all acknowledged themselves sold.  The steward, however, soon set matters to rights by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I went on deck at seven o'clock this morning, and found the brig steering her course with yards square and studding-sails set below and aloft.  The weather, strange to say, instead of growing colder as we approach Cape Horn, is gradually becoming milder.  The thermometer has risen four degrees during the past three days.  This afternoon the wind has been blowing very fresh, and the sea has been rougher than usual, which has caused the brig to roll heavily and ship frequent seas.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The brothers Kelly and myself have to-day joined the "PERSEVERANCE MINING COMPANY," which increases its membership to seven persons.  I think we are now as well prepared for mining as any company bound for <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"Know all men by these presents, that the undersigned have associated themselves together under the name and title of the `PERSEVERANCE MINING COMPANY,' for the purpose of transacting business in California, and have mutually agreed upon and adopted the following rules and regulations, by which they mutually pledge themselves to be governed:</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>"ARTICLE I.  It is agreed that there shall be one of the company chosen, by a majority of its members, who shall be styled Director, and who shall perform the duties of President.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. II.  It is agreed that one other member shall be chosen as Treasurer of the company, who shall have in charge all moneys and property of the company.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. III.  It is also agreed that there shall be one other member chosen as Secretary of the company, who shall keep the books and accounts of the same.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. IV.  It is agreed that the foregoing officers shall account to the company, at all times when requested to do so, and shall also be liable to removal at any time by a majority of said company.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. V.  It is agreed that each member of the company shall bear his own expenses until he arrives in California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. VI.  It is agreed that each member shall contribute an equal proportion of the amount required to increase the stock of mining implements, provisions, etc., for the conducting of business on their arrival in California, which shall belong to the joint stock of the company.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. VII.  It is agreed that any member who shall withdraw from the company, after his arrival in California, shall receive only such portion of the joint stock as may be awarded to him by a vote of two-thirds of the members of said company, and he shall also receive his share of accrued profits at the time of withdrawal.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. VIII.  It is agreed that in case of the death of any member of this company, the survivors shall forward to his legal representatives his share of the profits at the time of his decease, with a full and complete statement of the affairs of the company, attested by the officers thereof.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. IX.  It is agreed that the company shall pursue such business in California, or elsewhere, as shall be agreed upon by a majority of its members, and that the expenses of the company shall be mutually borne and the profits equally divided among them.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. X.  It is agreed, and we hereby pledge ourselves, to support and protect each other in case of emergency and sickness, and in all cases to stand by each other as a band of brothers.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. XI.  Inasmuch as the evil tendency of the use of intoxicating beverages in promoting disturbances, and in rendering persons unfit for business, and their liability to injure health, being well understood, it is hereby agreed that from and after our arrival in California, no member of this company shall use intoxicating liquors of any kind, except in case of urgent necessity.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. XII.  It is agreed that in case any member shall intentionally violate either of the foregoing articles, or hereafter refuse to be governed by them, he shall, after receiving his share of the joint stock and profits of the company, be expelled there-from.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. XIII.  It is agreed that this company shall not be increased beyond the number of seven, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. XIV.  It is also agreed that all vacancies that shall occur by death, expulsion or resignation, shall be filled by persons receiving the unanimous vote of the company.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"ART. XV.  It is furthermore agreed that in all matters relating to the company, the voice of its members shall be ascertained by ballot.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"JOHN HEYBERGER,<HSEP>"SAMUEL C. UPHAM,</P>
149.sgm:<P>"WILLIAM FETTER,<HSEP>"AMOS S. KELLY,</P>
149.sgm:<P>"CHARLES S. KELLY,<HSEP>"GEORGE WILSON,</P>
149.sgm:<P>"THOMAS S. BERGER."</P>
149.sgm:<P>The officers of "THE PERSEVERANCE MINING COMPANY" are:</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN HEYBERGER, <HI REND="italics">Pres't</HI>
149.sgm:.<HSEP>WM. FETTER, <HI REND="italics">Treas</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SAMUEL C. UPHAM, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Distance sailed, 112 miles.  Lat. 43&deg; 17'.  Therm. at M. 59&deg;.</P>
149.sgm:<P>["The Perseverance Mining Company," like many others formed <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm: to the new <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Another gale--Salt-water coffee--Cabin stove broken--Another hail-storm--Terra del Fuego--Staten Land by moonlight--Double Staten Land--Death of Jocko, the sailors' pet--Furious gale off Cape Horn--The cook's galley capsized--Cabin passengers on a jamboree--Another gale--Drifting about in the region of icebergs--Raw pork and hard-tack--Fresh provisions all gone--Novel method of obtaining fresh grub at sea--Double Cape Horn--Boxing the compass--Passengers volunteer to stand watch--Capture of an albatross.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We are within 600 miles of Cape Horn, and if we are blessed with a fair wind during the next five days, the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At sundown last night the wind commenced blowing very fresh, and before midnight it increased to a gale, which raged with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>This morning, the cook not having the fear of a rope's end before his eyes, treated the cabin passengers to a pot of <HI REND="italics">salt-water coffee</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We are to-day about 40 miles distant from the eastern point of Cape Blanco, on the coast of Patagonia.  During the past twenty-four hours the weather has been gradually growing colder, the thermometer having fallen ten degrees.  Distance sailed, 115 miles.  Lat. 47&deg; 24'.  Therm. at M. 51&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind headed us off our course five or six points, but this forenoon it hauled around fair again and since meridian we have been steering our course with studding-sails set below and aloft.  The heave seas of yesterday have strained the brig and caused a slight leak forward.  The sea has been quite smooth to-day and the weather cool but pleasant.  A land-bird, very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and the greater part of to-day we have been heading our course, but owing to cross-seas have made but little progress.  The weather is so cold that I have remained in my bunk nearly all the afternoon.  Through the negligence of the Captain the cabin stoves have been broken, consequently the passengers have no fires to warm themselves by, which has caused unpleasant feelings.  The steerage is at present the most comfortable part of the brig, and it is filled during the day with cabin passengers, some remaining during the night, preferring to sleep on chests rather than occupy their berths in the cabin.</P>
149.sgm:<P>We are to-day passing between the Falkland Islands and the coast of Patagonia, the former being about 40 miles distant.  Distance sailed, 96 miles.  Lat. 51&deg; 39'.  Therm. at M. 47&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>In the early part of last night we were treated to a specimen of Cape Horn weather in the shape of a hail-storm, which lasted about thirty minutes, during which time hail-stones, from the size of a pea to that of a marble, fell in abundance.  After the storm had ceased, the wind freshened, and before ten o'clock it blew a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night at midnight I went on deck for the purpose of seeing Staten Land.  By the aid of the moon, which was somewhat obscured by clouds, I could discern the mountains about 6 miles distant towering to the clouds, their tops covered with perpetual snow.  Staten Land--rock would be the better word--is a mass of barren rocks 60 miles long by 15 miles wide.  The highest peaks rise several thousand feet above the level of the ocean, and are continually covered with snow, presenting to the mariner a prospect as cheerless as they are barren and frigid.</P>
149.sgm:<P>It was the Captain's intention to have passed through the Straits of Le Maire, thereby avoiding the passage around Staten Land, but as we were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>At three o'clock this morning, we passed around the eastern point of Staten Land, and at daylight were off Easter Harbor, distant 10 miles, and heading our course toward Cape Horn, which we hope to double to-morrow evening; but all human calculations are uncertain, particularly in this latitude.  Before nine o'clock, A.M., we were in the midst of a furious gale, accompanied by rain and hail, which has driven us off our course and compelled us to steer toward the region of icebergs during the remainder of the day.  A fair wind for twenty-four hours would place us in the Pacific to the northward of Cape Horn, but a head-wind will prevent us from reaching that point until doomsday.  Several of the passengers have amused themselves to-day by catching gulls and Cape pigeons with a hook and line.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The cold weather of the past week has been too severe for the delicate constitution of our monkey.  He had a chill last night, which was succeeded by a violent fever, and this morning at daylight he was so far gone that neither hot drops, quinine nor burnt brandy could save him.  At ten o'clock, A.M., he bade farewell to all things sublunary, and at meridian was sewed up in a duff-bag and cast overboard.  <HI REND="italics">Sic transit gloria Jocko</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night the wind gradually died away, and this morning at daylight we were in a dead calm, an unusual occurrence in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>All hands on board have been agreeably disappointed in regard to the weather which we have encountered in the vicinity of Cape Horn.  Thus far it has been quite as pleasant as on the coast of North America during the month of October, and there is every prospect of a continuation of fine weather for several days.  At this writing, five o'clock, P.M., we are steering our course, and the brig is bowling along at the rate of nine knots.  If we can only manage to hold this breeze until meridian to-morrow, we shall most likely be to the westward of Cape Horn.  Distance sailed, 94 miles.  Lat. 55&deg; 44'.  Therm. at M. 44&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind of yesterday increased toward night, and at ten o'clock, P.M., it blew a furious gale.  The brig shipped several heavy seas during the night, one of which capsized the steerage galley and broke it in several places.  At midnight a huge wave broke over the forward cabin with such force as to cause several of the passengers to jump out of their berths and commence making preparations for a speedy departure for "Davy Jones's locker."</P>
149.sgm:<P>The fair wind of yesterday impressed all hands with the belief that we would pass Cape Horn before midnight last night, and upon the strength of this supposition several of the after-cabin passengers had a jollification which lasted all night and a part <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE "OSCEOLA" IN A GALE OFF CAPE HORN.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>This morning at sunrise the gale had somewhat subsided, but in consequence of strong head-seas we have made very little progress to-day.  We are still to the south-east of the Horn, distant about 40 miles, but hope to double it to-night.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This afternoon two vessels were discovered on our weather-bow, about 5 miles distant, heading the same course as we are.  One of the vessels resembles the bark <HI REND="italics">Harriet Newell</HI>
149.sgm:, which accompanied us out of the port of Rio.  The other vessel is probably the ship <HI REND="italics">Architect</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A terrific south-west gale has been blowing all day.  During the forenoon the brig lay to with her helm lashed, in which condition she behaved admirably, although the waves ran mountain-high and threatened to over-whelm her at every roll.  At noon the storm-stay-sail was set, and at this time, six o'clock, P.M., we are laying to under that sail, with the wind blowing a perfect hurricane.  There are persons on board the brig who have doubled Cape Horn several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>At meridian we were 60 miles due south of Cape Horn.  This afternoon a brig was reported on our lee-bow, distant 4 miles, laying to under bare poles.  Distance sailed, 148 miles.  Lat. 57&deg; 10'.  Therm. at M. 46&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night the wind subsided considerably, but owing to cross-seas and a strong head-wind, we have made but very little progress during the past twenty-four hours.  The sun arose clear this morning, and has not been obscured by a single cloud.  The brig is rolling heavily, occasionally dipping her lower yards.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The steerage galley was rigged up this morning, and although in a sadly-demoralized condition, has, with attentive watching, performed its usual office quite satisfactorily.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The fresh provisions laid in at Rio for the use of the cabin passengers, gave out yesterday, and all hands on board are now placed on the same diet--salt beef, pork and hard-tack, with an occasional plum-pudding boiled in salt water for dessert!</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Yesterday morning, being impressed with a desire to have something fresh for the inner man, either in the way of fish, flesh or fowl, I suggested to a friend the idea of catching a mess of Cape pigeons, which are hovering around the brig in abundance.  A fishing-line was accordingly rigged by my friend, and with the hook baited with pork, he caught a half-dozen pigeons before noon.  The birds were handed to me for the purpose of being cooked, which operation I performed as well as my limited knowledge of the culinary art would admit of, and at six o'clock, P.M., we sat down to a supper of roast pigeons, stuffed with pork and onions.  We ate the pork and onions-- <HI REND="italics">the pigeons were thrown overboard</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night and the greater part of to-day the weather has been cold, with frequent squalls accompanied by rain, snow and hail--genuine Cape Horn weather.  Since the commencement of the stormy weather, the brig has been driven back to the eastward as far as Staten Land, and so long as this head-wind continues we shall drift still further eastward.  We are further south this morning than at any time since we rounded Staten Land, and judging from the coldness of the wind, I presume we are in the vicinity of icebergs and fields of floating ice.  The thermometer has fallen seven degrees in the past twenty-four hours, and being without stoves or fires brings forcibly to mind scenes in the Antarctic, related to me by an officer of the U.S. Exploring Expedition <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:who visited that icy region in the year 1839.  While becalmed on the equator, a majority of the passengers were wishing for a gale--anything rather than a calm; but since we have been headed off so frequently, and driven about in these latitudes by adverse winds, the same individuals would gladly exchange positions with a vessel becalmed in the tropics, and also willingly submit to the <HI REND="italics">shaving operation</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Early last night the wind hauled around to the north-east, and since that time the brig has been heading her course with all drawings sails set.  The wind has been fair all day and the sea quite smooth, which has enabled us to leave the frozen regions of the south pole for those of a more genial temperature, at the rate of eight knots an hour.</P>
149.sgm:<P>During the past ten days we have twice been off the pitch of Cape Horn, and have as often been driven back or headed off by adverse winds, but as there is luck in odd numbers, I hope that we shall be permitted to pass this time with flying colors.  Should we be favored with a fair wind during the next twenty-four hours, we shall at the expiration of that time be so far to the northward and westward of the Horn that it will be a difficult matter for old Boreas to head us off and drive us toward the icebergs again.  Distance sailed, 106 miles.  Lat. 57&deg; 34'.  Therm. at M. 38&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night wind <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:W.N.W., with frequent squalls accompanied by hail and snow, and to-day it has been cloudy with strong indications of more snow.  At meridian, Cape Horn bore north-east, distant 125 miles; therefore <HI REND="italics">we are at last in the Pacific</HI>
149.sgm:!  Three cheers and a "tiger" for the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This morning the Captain and second mate had an altercation in relation to the duties of the latter, which resulted in his being "broken" and ordered in the forecastle to do duty before the mast during the remainder of the voyage.  It now remains to be seen whether the Captain will keep the "broken" mate's watch on deck or request the passengers to perform that duty, as was the case previous to our arrival at Rio de Janeiro.  Distance sailed, 112 miles.  Lat. 58&deg; 11'.  Therm. at M. 42&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and the greater part of to-day it has been squally with frequent showers, which has kept the crew busily engaged shortening and making sail.  We are still steering to the westward, which keeps us in cold weather, but shall probably commence running northward to-morrow, which will soon bring us into warmer weather.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Now that we are safely around Cape Horn, all hands are more anxious than ever to reach San Francisco, and in order to induce the Captain to carry a little more canvas on the brig, eight or ten of the passengers have volunteered their services to assist the crew in working her during the balance of the voyage.  Two vessels were reported on our weather-bow this morning, standing to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night and to-day weather squally and a Scotch mist has been falling, rendering the atmosphere chilly and unpleasant.  During the past twenty-four hours, the brig has completely boxed the compass.  Last night she headed west; this morning, at seven o'clock, north-west; at meridian, north; at two o'clock, P.M., south-east; at five o'clock, P.M., south, and at this writing, seven o'clock, P.M., she is heading south-west by west, which course the Captain desires to run until to-morrow noon, when, the wind permitting, he will steer northward.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Our volunteers performed their duty last night to the entire satisfaction of the Captain, but the damp and chilly weather of to-day has completely disheartened them.  Three of the volunteers have made up their minds not to stand watch to-night, and have already turned into their berths.  Distance sailed, 148 miles, by log.  No observation.  Therm. at M. 43&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night and to-day the rain has poured down in torrents, and the wind has been blowing very fresh, causing the brig to roll heavily and occasionally to ship a sea.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>During the past two days, in consequence of the cloudy state of the atmosphere, the Captain has not been able to take an observation by the sun, therefore our position is not definitely known; but I am of the opinion that we are in the neighborhood of 75&deg; west longitude, and latitude 58&deg; south.  If the Captain ascertains to-morrow that we are in 75&deg; west longitude, we will steer our present course during the next two weeks, wind permitting.  This afternoon and evening, several of the passengers have been trying to drive away dull care by playing chess, cards and dominoes.  Distance sailed, 102 miles, by log.  No observation.  Therm. at M. 44&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At midnight last night the brig was headed off her course by adverse winds, and during the remainder of the night and all day we have been heading south-west by west.  Thus far, all our efforts to get to the northward have been futile.  If by chance we get a slant of wind that enables us to run to the northward four or five hours, a head-wind invariably drives us back to Cape Horn.  We certainly have a Jonah on board!  During the day it has been squally, with occasional showers accompanied by hail.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This afternoon one of the passengers caught an albatross measuring across the wings from tip to tip, seven feet and two inches.  It was captured with a hook baited with pork.  Having been inspected by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At eight o'clock, A.M., we were struck by a squall which carried our foresail completely out of the bolt-rope, and the yards and masts would have gone by the board had not the passengers jumped on deck and assisted the crew in taking in sail and making things secure.  The first mate had charge of the deck at the commencement of the squall, but in consequence of his tardiness in the management of the brig, he was relieved by the Captain, who immediately clewed up and furled every sail with the exception of the foretop-mast-stay sail, under which we have been laying to during the forenoon.  The squall has increased to a gale, and at this time, three o'clock, P.M., the wind is blowing a hurricane, which is drifting the brig toward Cape Horn at the rate of six knots an hour.  After the gale had partially subsided, the Captain called the mate aft and read him a lecture on the management of a vessel in a storm, every sentence of which was rounded off with an oath, which drove the subject home and clinched it effectually.  Distance sailed, 80 miles.  Lat. 57&deg; 33'.  Therm. at M. 42&deg;.</P></DIV>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Another severe gale--Swollen limbs--Is it scurvy?--Captain and mate have a growl--Fight between two passengers--One of the passengers celebrates his birthday--Gambling on board, and the Captain's mode of suppressing it--Fair wind once more--Passengers again on deck--Punishing a ship's boy--Passengers object to putting into Talcahuana--Anchors gotten over the bow--Passengers watching for land--Make the coast of Chili--Head-wind--Driven out to sea.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Saturday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Early this morning the mainsail, top-sail, spanker and jib were set, a new foresail broke out of the sail-room and bent on.  Throughout the day we have been steering north-west by west, but owing to a light wind and heavy cross-seas, have made very little headway.  During yesterday we must have drifted at least 75 miles to the southward and eastward, which places us in about the same locality that we were this day week.  This morning a brig was reported directly astern of us, distant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The breeze of yesterday continued throughout last night, which has enabled us to regain what we lost during the gale of last Friday.  This morning the wind chopped around to the north-west, which has compelled us to head south-west by west all day.  Last night our amateur sailors again volunteered their services, and worked like Trojans, pulling and hauling at the ropes.</P>
149.sgm:<P>My feet have been very sore the past week, and to-day they are so badly swollen that it is with great difficulty I can draw on my boots.  One-third of the passengers are similarly afflicted.  Whether this swelling of the feet is occasioned by chilblains or the scurvy, I am unable to state, but am inclined to the belief that it is the incipient symptoms of the latter disease.  Distance sailed, 130 miles.  Lat. 56&deg; 53'.  Therm. at M. 42&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Fair wind all last night and to-day, which has enabled us to steer our course over the Southern Ocean at the rate of six knots an hour.  Should this wind continue until to-morrow evening, we will have made sufficient longitude to warrant our steering a northwardly course.  The weather is as coquettish as a maiden in her teens.  At sunrise the mercury in the thermometer was down to 41&deg;; at two o'clock, P.M., it stood at 50&deg;; at three o'clock, P.M., 52&deg;, and in two hours thereafter it was down to 45&deg;.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Two vessels were in sight this afternoon; one a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The breeze which we carried throughout yesterday died away in the evening, and during the remainder of the night it was squally, causing the watch on deck to be constantly exercising the sails.  To-day we have been steering a northerly course, but owing to frequent squalls and a strong head-sea, have made but very little progress.  The squalls have been accompanied by rain, hail and snow--gentle reminders of Cape Horn.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>To-day we have been steering north by west with a light wind, consequently have made very little headway.  A strong head-sea has been setting down from the north all the past week, which has retarded our progress.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Captain and mate had a growl yesterday concerning their relative positions on shipboard.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>A homeward-bound vessel passed us this afternoon to the windward, distant about 10 miles.  This evening one of the passengers shot an albatross which fell on deck.  The wings were given to the steerage steward; the skin and feathers were retained by the person who killed the bird, and the carcass will be served up to-day at two o'clock, P.M., for the especial benefit of steerage mess No. 1.  Thank God, I don't belong to that mess!  <HI REND="italics">I can eat albatross, but I don't hanker after it</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night at eight o'clock, the Captain wore ship and stood to the westward until three o'clock this morning, when it commenced blowing a gale from the north-east which continued until noon, the brig scudding before it with canvas barely sufficient to keep her steady.  At one o'clock, P.M., the wind lulled and the mainsail, foresail, jib and top-sails--the latter being close-reefed--were set, and during the remainder of the afternoon the brig has been heading a northerly course, which I hope will soon carry us into warmer weather.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>One hundred days since we left Philadelphia, and we are not 30 miles to the northward of Cape Horn.  Should the latter part of our voyage prove as tedious and unpleasant as the first, we shall all hail with joy the land of promise to which we are bound, whether we realize fortunes or not.  If ever sixty-five individuals were more heartily disgusted with a sea voyage than are the passengers on board this brig, I have yet to make their acquaintance.  Distance sailed, 144 miles.  Lat. 55&deg; 04'.  Therm. at M. 46&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night at eight o'clock, the wind headed us off our course, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to the westward.  At two o'clock this morning a gale crossed our path and the brig was hove to under foretop-mast-stay sail, in which position she remained until eight o'clock, A.M., when the foresail and top-sails were spread to the breeze, and since that time we have been heading northwardly and rolling over the water against a head-sea at the rate of three knots an hour.  Last night it was showery, but the weather to-day has been delightfully pleasant.</P>
149.sgm:<P>An altercation occurred this morning between two of the cabin passengers, which caused a general rush toward the scene of action.  During the affray one of the combatants drew a knife from his pocket, which was secured and thrown overboard before he had an opportunity of using it on his antagonist.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This afternoon a cabin passenger caught an albatross measuring ten feet four inches across the wings, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The brig has steered her course all day with all canvas set; the weather has been mild and pleasant.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Night before last, our amateur sailors declined to stand watch in consequence of the cook's having refused to serve them with their accustomed allowance of coffee during the morning watch.  The circumstance was reported to Captain Fairfowl, who soon arranged matters to their entire satisfaction, and last night they were again on deck pulling and hauling the ropes as usual.  The past week the gambling fever has again been raging fiercely on board, several of the cabin passengers having bucked away their last cent.  Some of them have become so infatuated with this damnable vice that they have cut the buttons from their coats, vests and inexpressibles, for the purpose of playing button bluff.  Distance sailed, 134 miles.  Lat. 52&deg; 50'.  Therm. at M. 48&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the brig headed N.N.E., being two points to the eastward of her course.  The weather during the night was squally with occasional showers.  At eight o'clock, A.M., the Captain wore the brig, and since that time we have been making a due west course.  The weather has been chilly, and this afternoon a cold, drizzling rain has been falling.  Three weeks ago this morning we rounded Staten Land, and at this time we are only one degree north of the Straits of Magellan.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The old skipper turned out of his berth this morning in a very bad humor, and during the day has, to use a nautical phrase, been "working up" the sailors.  They have been employed all day moving the larboard chain cable aft on the quarter deck, for the purpose of bringing the brig down more by the stern, thereby enabling her toil faster and make less leeway.  Sunday brings no rest for poor Jack.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Six days shalt thou labor,<LB>And do all thou art able,<LB>On the seventh, wash decks <HI REND="italics">And haul aft the cable</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Distance sailed, 101 miles.  Lat. 51&deg; 39'.  Therm. at M. 46&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, April</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the past twenty-four hours the brig has been wrestling with a head-wind and cross-seas.  A cold rain has been falling since morning which has caused the passengers to remain in close quarters all day.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A faro-bank has been in operation in the after-cabin this afternoon, and several hundred dollars have changed hands.  At sundown the bank was closed, but after supper it was again opened, and at this writing, eight o'clock, P.M., I hear the checks rattling on the table over my head.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The sun being obscured by clouds, no observation was taken.  Distance sailed, by log, 114 miles.  Therm. at M. 48&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Early last night the wind commenced blowing furiously from the north-west, and at midnight we were in the midst of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The after-cabin <HI REND="italics">blacklegs</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The gale continued to rage throughout last night with increased violence.  During the night, the brig shipped several of the heaviest seas I ever saw break over the bow of a vessel.  She shipped one in the early part of the evening that washed the steerage cook and a ship's boy out of the galley and carried them on an excursion down the lee scuppers as far as the companion-way, where they brought up hard and fast against a chicken-coop jambed between a water-cask and the bulwarks.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The brig rolled so heavily all night that several of the passengers on the weather-side were pitched out of their berths among the trunks and boxes.  Fortunately no bones were broken.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At daylight this morning the gale subsided, the wind hauled to the south-west, and we have been heading our course with all drawing-sails set, but a strong head-sea has prevented us from making much headway.  This morning all hands were put on an allowance of two quarts of water per man.  This arrangement will answer very well so long as the weather continues cool, but in a warmer climate it will scarcely suffice for cooking purposes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night the weather was squally with frequent showers.  Since sunrise the wind has been on the increase, and strong indications of a gale before midnight are visible.  A Scotch mist has been falling all day, and this afternoon the brig has been completely enveloped by a dense fog.  One of the steerage passengers celebrated his birthday yesterday, and the result was that at least a dozen of his companions retired to their berths in a state of inebriation.  The brig has been surrounded all day by gulls, goneys, albatross and other sea-birds.  Distance sailed, 116 miles.  Lat. 51&deg; 01'.  Therm. at M. 48&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>My predictions yesterday in relation to a gale were verified.  When the sun set last night the wind commenced blowing a severe gale, which continued until midnight, when it suddenly lulled and soon after we were becalmed.  To-day the wind has been light and baffling, which has caused the Captain to wear the brig three times since sunrise.  The weather during the forenoon has been foggy, damp and chilly.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Fairfowl to-day issued a <HI REND="italics">pronunciamiento</HI>
149.sgm: to the blacklegs, and also gave the mate orders to furl all the sails and lay the brig to should he witness any more gambling on board during the voyage.  This order created considerable excitement among the gamblers at first, but they soon cooled down and became as docile as lambs.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:Captain says, and he is in dead earnest, that there shall be no more <HI REND="italics">gambling</HI>
149.sgm: on board the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:, but all hands, including the cook, have permission to <HI REND="italics">pray</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Now that gambling has been squelched, the Captain predicts a fair wind within the next twenty-four hours.  We shall see.  Distance sailed, 72 miles.  Lat. 50&deg; 30'.  Therm. at M. 49&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At eight o'clock last night the wind hauled around to the south-west, which has enabled us to steer our course, which we have been heading, with <HI REND="italics">square yards</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This morning I had a fine view of a finbacked whale, which I should judge would measure sixty feet in length.  Distance sailed, 110 miles.  Lat. 49&deg; 34'.  Therm. at M. 47&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night we were blessed with a fair wind, which has continued today, and wafted us along toward our port of destination at the rate of nine knots an hour.  Several showers of rain, accompanied by hail, have fallen to-day, which have rendered the atmosphere chilly.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The weather foretop-mast studding-sail was set this morning, and it did good service until noon, when the wind hauled slightly ahead, and it was taken in.  We have not carried studding-sails <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>To-day the passengers have had their mattresses and blankets spread on deck for the purpose of giving them an airing, which they needed very much.  Early yesterday morning a bark was reported on our lee-bow, distant about 10 miles, heading to the northward.  We gained on her so fast during the day, that at sundown she was nearly hull down astern of us.  Distance sailed, 140 miles.  Lat. 47&deg; 20'.  Therm. at M. 46&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the past twenty-four hours the brig has been steering her course at the rate of nine knots an hour.  The weather is becoming more mild and pleasant, and "life on the ocean wave" seems more endurable.  The passengers who have been shivering with the cold weather for the past twenty days, are skipping about the deck as lively as larks, enjoying a little sunshine.  The mercury in the thermometer marked 53&deg; to-day, being the first time it has reached that point in thirty days.</P>
149.sgm:<P>All hands were very much amused to-day by a novel punishment inflicted on one of the ship's boys.  A pig, weighing twenty pounds, was slung under the right arm of the culprit by a lashing that passed over his right shoulder and around the body <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We had a fair wind last night, which has continued to-day, and the brig has been gliding along at the rate of eight knots an hour.  The weather still continues showery, although it is gradually growing warmer.</P>
149.sgm:<P>We have, in the last fifty hours, made nearly 500 miles on our course, which is very gratifying to all on board.  Yesterday, when the latitude was reported by the Captain, all hands gave three cheers and a "tiger," which seemed to shake the brig from stem to stern, and add fresh impetus to her speed.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A diversity of opinion prevails among the passengers in regard to the port we shall next stop at for provisions and water.  When we left Rio it was generally believed that our next stopping-place would be Valparaiso, but at present a rumor is rife that the brig will put into the port of Talcahuana.  The old skipper is so obstinate that he will not gratify the passengers by informing them in which port he will drop anchor.  Distance sailed, 190 miles.  Lat. 41&deg; 06'.  Therm. at M. 55&deg;.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Fair but light wind during the last twenty-four hours.  The weather is delightfully pleasant, and all hands are on deck indulging in a sun-bath.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The agony is over.  This morning the Captain altered the course of the brig, and since that time we have been steering direct for Talcahuana, where we hope to arrive day after to-morrow.  This afternoon, at the request of the Captain, I made out a list of naval rations for eighty-two persons for seventy days.  The provisions will be purchased at Talcahuana, and the probability is that we shall not stop again until we reach San Francisco.  This evening one of the passengers had a severe attack of the cramp colic which came very near causing him to lose the number of his mess.  Distance sailed, 180 miles.  Lat. 38&deg; 54'.  Therm. at M. 57&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We are still blessed with a fair wind, and are jogging along at the rate of six knots an hour.  Royal yards were sent up this morning, and we have carried royals and studding-sails during the day.  The anchors were gotten over the bow this afternoon, the chain cables hauled forward and shackled, and everything forward made ready for coming to anchor.  During the afternoon the tops and yards have been crowded with passengers watching for land, but they have been disappointed, no land being visible at sundown.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Yesterday morning, the second mate was called aft by the Captain and restored to duty, and during the remainder of the voyage he will be <HI REND="italics">entitled</HI>
149.sgm: to the <HI REND="italics">privilege</HI>
149.sgm: of sleeping in the steerage and eating <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We steered our course all last night, but this morning the wind hauled around to the northward and headed us off three or four points.  At meridian the Captain informed us that we were 40 miles to the leeward of Talcahuana, therefore there is little hope of reaching that port to-morrow unless the wind becomes more favorable.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This forenoon land was reported half a dozen times by different individual, but like the Frenchman's flea, when they looked the second time it was not there.  At sundown, however, <HI REND="italics">terra firma</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind continued ahead all night, and in order to work the brig as far to the windward as possible, the Captain wore her at the commencement of each watch.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At daylight this morning, the Island of Santa Maria and the Paps of Talcahuana were distinctly in view; the latter on our weather bow, distant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The Captain and first mate had another growl in relation to the duty of the latter, and during the wrangle the lie direct was given on both sides.  The old skipper swears that he will discharge the first mate on our arrival in Talcahuana, and the second mate says if the Captain does not serve him in like manner he will take the liberty of discharging himself.  It is probable that both mates will be discharged at that place and other officers shipped to fill the vacancies.  Distance sailed, 40 miles.  In consequence of being in sight of land no observation was taken at meridian.  Therm. at M. 68&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The norther of yesterday continued blowing furiously until two o'clock this morning, when it suddenly abated.  Two hours afterward, the wind hauled around to the northwest, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to the northward and eastward, which direction we have continued all day.  During last night we were driven so far to the southward and westward that we did not make the land again until five o'clock this evening.  At sundown we were about 15 miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Put into the wrong harbor--Passengers go ashore--Reception by the natives of De Chatta--Deserters--Dine with the Alcalde--Ascertain our whereabouts, and start for Talcahuana--Scenery <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monday, May</HI>
149.sgm: 14.--Last night about eight o'clock we came very near running aground on a reef off the harbor of Talcahuana, which caused a panic among the passengers.  We hugged the land closely during the night, and at daylight this morning discovered through the fog an opening, into which we ran, the Captain supposing it to be the harbor of Talcahuana, but soon discovering his mistake, let go the anchor.  When the sun had dispelled the fog, we found ourselves in a small bay, the name of which we could not determine.  We could not put to sea, as a stiff breeze was blowing directly into the mouth of the bay; therefore the Captain concluded to go ashore and ascertain his where abouts.  The skipper gave the passengers permission to accompany him, and the boats were soon filled and pulling for the shore with willing hands.  We landed near a mud hut with a thatched roof, which was occupied by an old man and woman, who received us with a hearty welcome, and set <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Among the first party that met us at the entrance to the village were a Yankee and an Englishman, who had deserted from a whale-ship at Talcahuana and were <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm: to Valparaiso, where they intended to ship for San Francisco.  From the Yankee, we learned that the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: was at anchor in the Bay De Chatta, 9 miles to the northward of the harbor, and 27 miles from the town of Talcahuana.  We also learned that there was a road leading to the village of Tome, distant about 7 miles and situated on the north-east side of the bay of Talcahuana, from which place we could embark in whale-boats and reach Talcahuana before night.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The road was very muddy and slippery, caused by the rain of the previous night, yet the scenery through which it wound, and the numerous picturesque views of the Bay De Chatta and harbor of Talcahuana, doubly repaid us for the fatigue endured while performing the journey.  The peasantry of Chili are the most unsophisticated and hospitable people I have ever met.  During our journey across the mountains we frequently stopped at their huts for <HI REND="italics">water</HI>
149.sgm:, and they invariably offered us <HI REND="italics">wine</HI>
149.sgm:, for which they declined to receive any compensation.  At one hut at which I called for a drink of water, the <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;ora</HI>
149.sgm: was eating a quince, one-half of which she presented to me and insisted on my eating it.  I complied without much persuasion, as fruit of any kind was a luxury after having been deprived of it for forty days.  On the road we passed several apple-orchards, vineyards, strawberry patches and fields of wheat.  At nearly all the road crossings, I noticed rudely-constructed crosses, one of which, fashioned more smoothly than the others, was entwined with evergreens and fancifully decorated with flowers--the work, most likely, of some dark-eyed <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;orita</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Chilian wine possesses a peculiar flavor, which I could not account for until I had witnessed the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>A Chilian threshing-machine is also quite as primitive and novel as the wine-press.  The threshing is executed by mule-power, without the aid of machinery.  A hard-beaten path or circle, very much resembling a circus-ring, is formed around the wheat-stack, and when ready for operation the sheaves are thickly strewn around the circle, and mules of all grades, good, bad and indifferent, are turned loose into the inclosure and kept moving lively to the music of the whip until the grain is thoroughly separated from the sheaves.  A Chilian threshing-machine never requires oiling, but it sometimes becomes obstinate and kicks up behind.</P>
149.sgm: <P>[With the reader's permission, I desire to digress a moment from the thread of my narrative.  A quarter of a century has wrought wonderful changes in the Republic of Chili.  The wooden plough, primitive wine-press and threshing-machine have been supplanted by the introduction of modern and improved Yankee appliances.  The world moves, and Chili now occupies a front seat in the car of progress!</P>
149.sgm:<P>To a single man, an American, is due in a large measure her wonderful progress during the past twenty-five years, and that man was the late HENRY MEIGGS, who died at Lima, Peru, on the 29th day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>From a portrait, by the National Bank Note Co., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Henry Meiggs was born in Greene County, N.Y., in the year 1811.  He began life in Catskill as a lumber merchant, with the late James Milliard, who at that time was one of the most extensive lumber dealers between New York and Albany.  Mr. Meiggs lived in Catskill until he was twenty-five years of age, going from there in 1835 or 1836 to Williamsburgh, L.I., where he again went into the lumber trade with Minor Keith, now living near Babylon, L.I., who married his sister, Clara Meiggs.  Keith was formerly from Cairo, Greene County, and brother-in-law of General George Beach, ex-State Senator, who married his sister.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Meiggs remained with Milliard several years.  He was the leader of the choir in St. Luke's Church.  He was well versed in the lumber trade, highly respected, a man of tremendous energy, physically a perfect athlete, good-natured and gentlemanly.  Speaking of his fists--you should have seen them!  But perhaps you have seen those of the late Tom Hyer--Tom's mauleys were not the smallest.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Several friends went down to the Hook with Meiggs when he sailed for California in 1849, on board the old Havre packet-ship <HI REND="italics">Albany</HI>
149.sgm:<P>He arrived in San Francisco in July, 1849, where he sold his ship-load of lumber at twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Thenceforth until he fell, Henry Meiggs was a foremost man in California in business, in municipal politics and in social life.  He had three manias--land, lumber and music.  His land and lumber operations were conducted on a scale of unprecedented magnitude; and he was popularly believed to be the richest man on the western coast of America.  But, when the great financial pressure of 1854 seized California with its paralyzing grip, bankruptcy came upon him like an armed man.  He rose to the contest with such enormous strength and such resourceful genius, that, had he sought only to save himself, he might have come off victorious; but, with the ill-judged generosity which was a pervading element of his character, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>In the frenzy of that death-struggle Mr. Meiggs succumbed to the tempter.  He was a restless, alert and enterprising man, having at the same time a great deal of good nature, frank, open, obliging, doing a good turn for others, and getting a great many favors in return.  Among the pioneers he was a marked man.  He was elected to the Board of Aldermen as early as 1851, and served very acceptably for two or three terms.  He ranked among the better men who at that time were connected with the municipal government.  During the latter part of his service as alderman he became interested in street contracts, while engaged largely in the lumber business.  He built the long pier known as Meiggs's Wharf, and probably did more than any other man to develop the North Beach side of the town.  He built Music Hall, on Bush Street, on a part of the site of the present Occidental Hotel.  At that time Harry Meiggs was one of the most influential men of the city.  His reputation was good, and although he was a venturesome man, yet he could command an almost unbounded credit.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Jacob Cousins, who was master of the bark <HI REND="italics">America</HI>
149.sgm:, in which Meiggs made his exodus, says that on the 26th of September, 1854, he was in the cabin of the bark conversing with Captain Wiggins, who was then in command of the vessel, when Vickery Seaman, a warm personal friend of Meiggs, and connected with him in business, came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The Captain knew that Meiggs was very much embarrassed financially, and suspected that he was to be the principal passenger, but said nothing of his suspicions, simply accepting the command.  The vessel was fitted up just as any ordinary lumber coaster, as far as cabin accommodations were concerned, with very little furniture, and no carpet on the floor.  The only extra expense incurred for the comfort of the expected passengers was in furnishing two small state-rooms forward for officers' quarters, and the purchase of a second-hand sofa for the cabin.  On the 3d of October the Captain reported the vessel ready for sea, and about nine o'clock the same evening, Seaman came on board and told Captain Cousins that Henry Meiggs and his family were the passengers going in the ship.  At midnight Seaman and the Captain went ashore in the ship's boat alone, landing at Broadway wharf, where they left the boat and went up to Mr. Meiggs's residence.  They were met at the door by Mr. Meiggs, who took the Captain by the hand, saying, "Captain, this is hell, but I can't help it."  In the house, besides Mrs. Meiggs and her three children, were Ned Seaman, a young man named Gilchrist, a clerk in Meiggs's employ, John G. Meiggs, David Thayer, a cousin of Meiggs, and two servant girls.  The party sat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>About four o'clock in the afternoon they again got under way, and were towed out as far as the North Head.  After making a few tacks, the Captain found that the tide was drifting them back into the bay, and he was again forced to come to anchor.  At high water, the Captain hove up anchor and drifted out with the tide in a dense fog.  Toward morning a light wind sprang up from the land, and by daylight they were half-way to the Farallones.</P>
149.sgm:<P>There they lay becalmed for two days, but the fog was so thick that they felt no uneasiness about being followed.  During all this time, Mr. Meiggs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>He engaged as sub-contractor of bridges on a railroad then in process of construction in Chili.  His remarkable executive ability drew attention to him.  He was a driving man, and could get more work out of native laborers than any one else.  The story of his sudden departure from San Francisco injured him in his early efforts.  But soon after ex-Governor Bigler became Minister to Chili; a kind-hearted man, who was disposed to look on the better side of Meiggs's life.  The fact that Bigler recognized him and was on friendly terms with him, produced a favorable impression upon the people.  Meiggs could not be a very bad man, if the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:American Minister was disposed to overlook his irregularities.  A short time afterward, he contracted with the Chilian government to complete the Santiago and Valparaiso Railroad in four years, for $12,000,000.  He completed the work in about two years, making a clear profit of over $1,300,000.  Then followed other gigantic railroad enterprises, chief among which was the railroad from Arequipa to Mollindo, in Peru, completed in 1871, from which he derived a very large profit.  He celebrated the completion of this road by a lavish expenditure of money for a public dinner and for gold and silver medals, the outlay being not less than three-fourths of a million dollars.  He afterward contracted for six railways in Peru, most of which he completed, the longest being that which extends from Callao to the summit of the Andes and beyond, and which was intended to tap the rich valleys near the head waters of the Amazon River.  It was the most stupendous enterprise ever undertaken by one man.  The engineering on this railroad is one of the marvels of the world.  But the road did not pay, and for two or three years Meiggs fell into financial embarrassments.  He seems at all times to have had the confidence of the government, and it is understood that the Peruvian government indorsed all his railroad paper, although this did not bring him out of his difficulties.  He was the financial brains of Peru.  His last project was to tap some famous silver mines and make the transportation of the ores to the coast a profitable business for his road.  Had he lived, he would probably have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>A few years ago, the friends of Meiggs in California sought to have his disabilities removed, so that he might return to that State.  A bill to this effect became a law, but he never returned.  He provided for the redemption of his outstanding paper in that State, and to a great extent <HI REND="italics">he redeemed the great error of his early life</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Brave, noble, generous, chivalric Harry Meiggs!  We all recollect the blazing cathedral at Santiago, and how he risked his own life to save the lives of others.  That was Meiggs all over.  As to his failings, let him that has none cast the first stone.  Those who knew him, loved him.  [ <HI REND="italics">They will drop a tear to his memory</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Arrive at Tome--Dog-meat <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
149.sgm:. mutton--Embark in a whale-boat for Talcahuana--The Red Lion and its landlord--The <HI REND="italics">Sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
149.sgm: --A night on a dining-table--The market--Coal mines--Feast on muscles--Funeral of a whaleman--Chilian fandango--Chilians, male and female--Females making their toilet--Passengers arrive from De Chatta--Arrival of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <P>TOME contains about two hundred <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At sundown we chartered a whale-boat for $10 to convey us across the bay to Talcahuana, distant 21 miles, and after shivering in the night-air for four hours, arrived at our destination.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On our arrival, we repaired to the Red Lion Hotel, kept by a Yankee of the name of Keen, where we partook of a miserably-cooked supper for which we paid three <HI REND="italics">reals</HI>
149.sgm: each.  After supper we informed the landlord that we wished to retire for the night, but imagine our surprise on being told that he had no beds.  He informed us that lodging <HI REND="italics">was not his bill of fare</HI>
149.sgm:, boarders not being lodged at any of the hotels in town.  He very politely informed us that we could be accommodated with lodgings by the <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>After breakfast, accompanied by a party of friends, I visited the market, a rudely-constructed one-story frame building, resembling very much a row of sheds, inclosing a hollow square.  The area or court, about eighty feet square, at the time of our visit was occupied by a squad of halfnaked natives pitching <HI REND="italics">reals</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From the market we strolled leisurely along the beach toward the southern part of the town for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On the beach to the southward of the coal mines we discovered the bones of a huge monster, which we conjectured to be a mastodon, but I have since learned that it was the skeleton of that leviathan of the deep-- <HI REND="italics">a whale</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Having heard the South American muscles very highly spoken of by epicures, I resolved upon testing their quality.  I accordingly repaired to the boat of a fisherman and by gestures made known my wants to the owner.  A fire was soon kindled on the beach, and a quantity of bivalves placed around it, and, as fast as roasted, I devoured them with a gusto that would have caused a blush on the face of a New York alderman.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In the afternoon I attended the funeral of a young man belonging to the whale-ship <HI REND="italics">Franklin</HI>
149.sgm: of New Bedford, who was poisoned by one of the cyprians of Talcahuana during a fit of jealousy.  The poison was administered in wine, and he survived the fatal drug forty-eight hours.  His remains were followed from the custom-house landing to the burial-ground by a procession of over five hundred Americans, a majority of whom belong to the California passenger vessels at anchor in this port.  At the grave a chapter was read from the Bible and an impressive and appropriate prayer made by the doctor of the ship <HI REND="italics">Trescott</HI>
149.sgm: of Boston.  At the conclusion of the prayer the coffin was lowered into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:the grave, and the "clods of the valley" soon hid from mortal ken the remains of one who, but a few months previously, had left the home of his boyhood with buoyant spirits and elated hopes to be cut down in a strange land, without father, mother, sister or brother to soothe his last moments or listen to his dying prayer; but he died surrounded by <HI REND="italics">friends</HI>
149.sgm:, and his remains were deposited in their last earthly resting-place by his <HI REND="italics">own countrymen</HI>
149.sgm:<P>In the evening, accompanied by five or six friends, I strolled about the town for the purpose of "seeing the elephant" in Chili.  We visited several <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
149.sgm: establishments, well filled with mixed audiences, who were <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Tripping the light fantastic toe,"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>to the music of the castanets and guitar.  The Chilian women--those whom I have seen--are not very prepossessing.  They are low in stature and inclined to corpulency, which gives them a squatty appearance.  Their hair and eyes are jet black, and complexion a light copper color.  Their cheekbones are very prominent, and the general contour of their faces reminds one very much of the North American Indians.  They paint highly, and, like their American sisters, are passionately fond of dress, invariably preferring bright and gaudy colors.  The males are somewhat taller than the females, but in complexion and general features resemble <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:them very much.  They are generally an idle, indolent class of people, laboring only when necessity compels them to do so.  The Chilians are blessed with a soil as fertile as any on which the sun shines, and their climate is a perpetual summer; yet, with all these natural advantages, they remain a poor, flea-bitten, priest-ridden people!  In the cities and large towns native labor commands only one <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At night, I occupied my former quarters on the dining-table at the Red Lion, with fleas here, there and everywhere, but not one could I catch.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Early this morning I visited the slaughter-house, situated on a small stream in the northern suburb of the town.  During the half-hour I remained there, some six or eight beeves were killed and dressed ready for the market.  Beef in Talcahuana is remarkably cheap, selling on an average at three cents per pound.  On my return to town I passed half a dozen dark-eyed <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On reaching the town, I stopped at a ten-pin alley kept by a Yankee from New Bedford, where I met <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:eight or ten of my fellow-passengers just arrived from De Chatta, where the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: lay wind-bound when they left her at three o'clock yesterday afternoon.  They left the brig at so late an hour that they were benighted on the road and compelled to remain over night at the <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From the ten-pin alley we went down to the custom-house landing, and looking toward the mouth of the harbor saw a brig beating in which proved to be the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:, and in about two hours she came to anchor off the town.  After the brig had been boarded by the Port Captain and Custom-house Officer, we chartered a boat and went on board.  As soon as we reached the deck the Captain informed us that the brig, by running into the Bay De Chatta, had committed a breach of the marine laws of Chili and, he feared, would be confiscated.  The Captain of the port informed Captain Fairfowl, that the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: with her cargo was liable to confiscation, in consequence of the passengers having landed before the vessel had been boarded by the port officers.  I think we shall be able to prove to the entire satisfaction of the Chilian government that we put into De Chatta by mistake, and that no contraband goods have been landed from the brig.  I fear we shall be detained in port longer than may prove agreeable, and perhaps compelled to pay a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Having slept very little during the two previous nights, I stripped off my clothes, shook the fleas out of my pantaloons and turned into my berth with the hope of enjoying a good night's rest, and I was not disappointed.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I went on shore at eight o'clock this morning and joined a party of friends who were about to start on foot for the city of Concepcion, 9 miles distant.  We set out, staff in hand, and after traveling three hours over a sandy road, arrived at the city of a thousand earthquakes very much fatigued and as hungry as half-famished wolves.  On the road we met several Chilians armed to the teeth, but we passed unmolested, although those Job's comforters, the Talcahuanans, informed us that we would be lassoed and robbed <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm:!  Passing through a thicket of <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
149.sgm:, we saw several of the cut-throat gentry near the road mounted on ponies, with lassos hanging in coils over the horns of their saddles.  As we passed them they cried out in broken English, "California!" and spurring their animals, soon disappeared in the bushes.  On our arrival in the city, we ordered dinner at a hotel kept by a Yankee from the land of baked beans and pumpkin pies, of the name of Brooks.  Our dinner consisted of boiled eggs, stewed chickens, beefsteak and potatoes, with a dessert of cheese, grapes and pears, which we quickly dispatched.  After dinner I had a chat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>After leaving the Yankee landlord, we strolled through the city for a short time, and toward night clambered to the top of a mountain near by for the purpose of viewing the city and surrounding country.  From our elevated position we had a magnificent view of Concepcion, the surrounding country and the River Biobio, winding at the base of green hills and furrowed ravines, on its way to the Pacific.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The city of Concepcion is situated on the northern bank of the Biobio, about 10 miles above its entrance into the ocean, and is built on a plain, surrounded on three sides by high hills.  Concepcion, at this time, contains about thirteen hundred one-story houses and mud huts and a population of fifteen thousand inhabitants, one-eighth of whom are foreigners.  In the year 1836, the entire city, with the exception of three houses, was destroyed by an earthquake, and all the buildings erected since that time, with two exceptions, the cathedral and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:the residence of the governor, are one story high.  Every attempt during the past hundred years to add an additional story to the former has proved abortive.  Before the walls had become thoroughly dry, an earthquake shock would crack them so badly that life and limb required their removal.  But hope on, hope ever, seems to be the prevailing motto with the Chilians, and I presume the process of shaking down and rebuilding will continue indefinitely.  The habitations of the poorer classes are built of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This being Ascension Day, and the inhabitants zealous Catholics, nearly all the shops and other places of business were closed; consequently, the city presented rather a sombre and gloomy appearance.  In the evening we fell in with a Frenchman, for ten years a resident of Chili, who informed us that he would accommodate some of our party with lodgings.  Three of us accepted his invitation and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We arose at eight o'clock, A.M., very much refreshed with a good night's rest, and while breakfast was being prepared, our host showed us around his premises, which would have done credit to a citizen of the land of steady habits.  He carried on baking, shoemaking, tanning and last, though not least, "took in strangers" and sold <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">vino</HI>
149.sgm:.  The different branches of business carried on under the same roof were all under the supervision of our host, who informed us that he was making <HI REND="italics">very mooch monish</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Breakfast was delayed until half-past ten o'clock, but what was lost in time was fully made up in variety, as the following bill of fare will attest: First course, chicken soup; second ditto, beefsteak and onions; third ditto, fried fish; fourth ditto, boiled fish, dressed with butter; fifth ditto, baked leg of mutton and celery; sixth ditto, cheese, fruit and wine.  Each of us being blessed with a good appetite, the different courses disappeared rapidly, which, to use the little Frenchman's own words, pleased him very <HI REND="italics">mooch</HI>
149.sgm:<P>After breakfast we visited the store of a Philadelphian, of the name of Johns, who had just left for Talcahuana, therefore we did not have the pleasure of making his acquaintance.  His clerk, however, introduced us to Mrs. Johns, a Chilian lady, rather above the medium size and very fleshy.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>We were overtaken on the road by two Chilians on horseback, who requested two of our party to ride behind them to Talcahuana.  Mr. Butcher and I availed ourselves of their kind offer, and mounting were soon galloping over the road in advance of our companions.  The horse on which my friend Butcher was astride, unfortunately for that gentleman, had a very prominent backbone, which caused the rider to sit as lightly thereon as possible.  After riding about a mile, friend B. commenced screwing and turning like an eel undergoing the skinning process.  He reminded me very much of a lad I once saw with a nettle in the seat of his trouserloons.  At length his seat became so unpleasant that he resolved to leave it at the risk of his neck.  All endeavors to induce the Chilian to stop his horse were unavailing; therefore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:he watched for a soft spot in the road and slid off stern foremost over the tail of the horse.  Not wishing to leave my friend alone on the road, I dismounted and, giving the Chilian a <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
149.sgm:, walked back to assist B. in adjusting his apparel, a <HI REND="italics">certain portion</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Friend Butcher and I being too much fatigued to go on board the brig, engaged a bunk in a <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the voyage I have grown so fleshy that it is with extreme difficulty I can wear my clothes.  This morning I carried my coat to a tailor for the purpose of having the sleeves enlarged, and I hope hereafter to be able to wear it with more comfort.  Afterward I went to the office of the agent of the English mail steamers, in order to ascertain the postage on a letter to the United States, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the past two weeks the following passenger vessels bound for California have put into this port for water and provisions:</P>
149.sgm:<P>From New York, ships <HI REND="italics">Albany</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
149.sgm:, and brig <HI REND="italics">Georgiana</HI>
149.sgm:.  From Boston, ships <HI REND="italics">Trescott</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Leonore</HI>
149.sgm:, bark <HI REND="italics">Oxford</HI>
149.sgm:, and brig <HI REND="italics">Mary Wilder</HI>
149.sgm:.  Brig <HI REND="italics">Charlotte</HI>
149.sgm:, Newburyport, Mass.; ship <HI REND="italics">Hopewell</HI>
149.sgm:, Warren, R.I.; bark <HI REND="italics">Diamond</HI>
149.sgm:, New Bedford, Mass., and brig <HI REND="italics">John Petty</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On board of these vessels are nearly one thousand Americans bound for the gold-diggings of California.  The Chilians have fitted out three vessels at this port for San Francisco; two of which have sailed and the third is on the eve of departure.  Several foreigners, resident at this place, have engaged passage on board the American vessels lying in this port bound for the new El Dorado.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I went ashore at eight o'clock this morning and visited the market for the purpose of treating myself to grapes and apples, and while there a pretty <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;orita</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On our way we passed a procession of children bearing, on a rudely-constructed bier, a fancifully-ornamented coffin containing the remains of an infant which they were about to consign to mother-earth.  The little mourners appeared very sorrowful, and to me the scene was deeply affecting and impressive.  My thoughts wandered back to a little golden-haired darling I had left behind me, and as I turned away unbidden tears dimmed my eyes.</P>
149.sgm:<P>After a fatiguing walk of an hour, we reached the summit of the higher pap, from which we had a magnificent view of the town and Bay of Talcahuana, the city of Concepcion, the Biobio winding like a silver thread among the hills and ravines, the little village of Tome nestling at the foot of the mountains on the eastern shore of the bay, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Description of Talcahuana--Theft of a water-cask--Punishment of the culprit--Our indebtedness to Captain Finch--The American consul--Departure from Talcahuana--Scene in the harbor--Gambling on board--Salt-water dumplings--Becalmed--Increase in the price of mining implements--General washday--Magnificent scene--Passengers on an exploring expedition--Set-to between the Captain and cook--First knockdown for the cook--Sugar served out <HI REND="italics">pro rata</HI>
149.sgm: <P>THE town of Talcahuana contains about three hundred <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
149.sgm: houses and mud huts and, perhaps, three thousand inhabitants.  The present town has been built within the last thirteen years, the old town having been thrown down in 1836 by the earthquake that destroyed Concepcion.  The dwellings in Talcahuana, like those of Concepcion, are only one story high, and the walls are constructed of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
149.sgm: or reeds plastered with mud.  The <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
149.sgm: walls are of immense thickness, and the roofs are mostly thatched with a species of long sea-grass.  In a majority of the houses and stores there are no plank or board floors.  In the dwellings of the aristocracy the floors are of tile, but the poorer classes are always on the "ground floor."  The streets are irregularly laid out, and the buildings erected without any regard to beauty or uniformity.  The streets are unpaved, consequently they are very dusty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>This afternoon the town seems to be overrun with <HI REND="italics">los Americanos</HI>
149.sgm:.  There are at least five hundred California passengers on shore, and to use a nautical phrase, they are putting the town "in stays."  Being foot-sore and weary, at five o'clock, P.M., I hired a boat and went on board the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>After breakfast I went ashore and purchased a hamper of apples, a Chilian cheese, two dozen loaves of bread and twenty pounds of flour--private stores for the balance of the voyage.  After carrying my provisions on board the brig, I returned with my rifle for target practice.  Having obtained permission from the Captain of the port to use fire-arms on shore, I repaired to a ravine in the suburbs of the town and practiced until noon.  I fired some twenty shots, at the distance of eighty yards, and, strange to say, the target was not injured in the least.  On my return to the brig, I learned from one of our sailors at the ship's watering-place that one of the water-casks belonging to the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: had been stolen by a native and found secreted in his hut.  The circumstance was reported to the Captain of the port, and in about an hour afterward the culprit was arrested and compelled to march before a guard of soldiers to the watering-place, with a rogue's cap on his head and a ladder on his shoulders.  On arriving at the place where the theft was committed, he was lashed to the ladder and while in that position received on his bare back twenty-five lashes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>After breakfast I went on shore with my fowling-piece for the purpose of shooting ducks.  I walked along the beach for several miles without seeing any game worth bagging.  I then struck off to the right, crossed over a hill and entered a ravine where I found robins and other small birds in abundance.  I soon killed a dozen robins and returned to town.  From a fellow-passenger I learned that it was currently reported about town, that the Chilian government intended to seize the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: for an infringement of their marine laws in landing passengers at De Chatta before being boarded by the port officers.  The Captain and passengers are very much excited about the matter.  This morning a hearing was had before the Captain of the port, witnesses examined, etc., but no decision was reached, and the case will most likely be sent to a higher tribunal at Concepcion.  Mr. Wainwright, our supercargo, was dispatched to headquarters this morning, for the purpose of setting matters in their true light before the officials.  He returned at sundown without bringing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The American consul at this port--Crosby, from Ohio--although appointed by a Democratic President, is a dyed-in-the-wool " <HI REND="italics">Know Nothing</HI>
149.sgm:."  Had he performed <HI REND="italics">his duty</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I went on board the brig at four o'clock, P.M., and had broiled robins for supper.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I have resolved not to go ashore again while we lay in this port, unless compelled by the Chilian government to do so.  Have been engaged during the forenoon mending my clothing.  In the afternoon I repaired a gun-lock, cleaned and oiled my fire-arms and laid them aside ready for use on my arrival in California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>No decision in the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Both of our mates have been discharged, and the Captain is again without officers.  We have had four mates since we left Philadelphia, and God only knows how many more we shall have before we reach California.  Two sailors came on board the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind blew very fresh from the north, and every indication of a norther was visible.  In the early part of the evening the sailors went ashore, and the brig was left entirely to the care of the passengers.  Chain was paid out several times during the night for the purpose of preventing the brig from dragging her anchor.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Yesterday afternoon Captain Fairfowl went ashore, and during his peregrinations about town took too much "wine for his stomach's sake."  In his endeavors to get on board the brig, the boat swamped and he lost his hat and got thoroughly drenched with salt water.  About eight o'clock, P.M., one of our passengers came across the old skipper pacing the beach in front of the custom-house, bareheaded.  He was taken to a hotel and persuaded to remain there during the night.  In the morning, dry clothes were sent on shore to him, and after making his toilet he came on board the brig looking rather crest-fallen.  He says the wine he drank was drugged.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Finch returned from Concepcion to-day with the news that we will be permitted to depart from Talcahuana in peace, provided we pay the expenses incurred in the case, amounting in the aggregate to fifty dollars.  Our Captain will acquiesce in this decision, and we shall probably sail to-morrow.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Captain shipped a first mate to-day, which means business.  One of our passengers came on board this afternoon as tight as bricks and as noisy as a demon.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind commenced blowing from the north, and toward morning rain began to fall, and it has been blowing and raining throughout the day, causing a heavy swell in the harbor and a tremendous surf on the beach.  Our new mate and the sailors took "French liberty" last night--not one remaining on board--and the Captain was compelled to call on the passengers to keep anchor-watch.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Finch went up to Concepcion again today and made a final settlement of our case.  We are promised our clearance papers this evening or to-morrow morning, and shall sail as soon as the wind will permit.</P>
149.sgm:<P>All hands are anxious to be on the wing again.  Had the weather permitted, the Americans belonging to the California passenger vessels would have marched in procession through Talcahuana to-day.  During the afternoon our passengers have been coming on board laden with fruit, nuts and bread, preparatory to sailing.  The old skipper has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The rain is still pouring down, and a stiff breeze has been blowing into the harbor all day, which has prevented us from getting under way and putting to sea.  Our new mate has already become dissatisfied with the Captain, and is just going over the side of the brig with his bag and baggage.  Another first mate was shipped this evening, but I fear we shall lose him unless we sail soon.  The Captain has been "working up" the sailors to-day, by causing them to scrub paint-work in the rain.  We are now ready for sea, and are waiting for a fair wind to take our departure.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The rain poured down in torrents all last night, and early this morning we were completely enveloped by a dense fog.  At sunrise the fog disappeared, and the day has been delightfully pleasant.</P>
149.sgm:<P>After breakfast the anchor was hove short, and at ten o'clock, A.M., we received our clearance papers from the Port Captain, got under way, and at meridian passed the Island of Quiriquina, at the entrance to the harbor, and were soon at sea, gliding merrily along over the swelling billows of the Pacific.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At the mouth of the harbor we spoke the California passenger ship <HI REND="italics">Christoval Colon</HI>
149.sgm:, of New York, bound in for a supply of provisions and water.  The American brig <HI REND="italics">Mary Wilder</HI>
149.sgm:, bound for California, got under way about an hour before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:us, but we passed her in the harbor, and at this time, six o'clock, P.M., she is fully 10 miles astern of us.  As we passed the <HI REND="italics">Christoval Colon</HI>
149.sgm:, cheers were exchanged, and our band, consisting of a bugle, cornet and trombone, struck up the "Star-Spangled Banner," which was cheered at intervals by the passengers of the <HI REND="italics">Colon</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Mary Wilder</HI>
149.sgm:, until their voices were drowned by the dashing of the waves against the prow of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<P>As soon as we were outside the harbor, studding-sails were set below and aloft, and the coast of Chili rapidly disappeared in the distance.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and today the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: has been gliding along before a delightful breeze with all studding-sails set.  This morning at daylight the <HI REND="italics">Mary Wilder</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This morning angry words passed between the after-cabin and steerage passengers in relation to their rights on shipboard.  One of the former intimated that the steerage passengers had no right to promenade the quarter-deck.  This brought the steerage boys out in full force, and a long controversy ensued, in which both parties took an active part.  The matter was finally referred to the Captain, who decided that the steerage passengers had the same right to the use of the quarter-deck as their aristocratic neighbors of the cabin.  The opinion among the steerage passengers <HI REND="italics">to-day is</HI>
149.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night the wind continued fair, but this morning it hauled ahead, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to the westward.  At eleven o'clock, A.M., the wind hauled around fair again, and since that time we have been running before a light breeze with the sea as smooth and placid as a mill-pond.  At meridian we were off the Island of Juan Fernandez, once the abode of "poor old Robinson Crusoe."</P>
149.sgm:<P>This morning the Captain reprimanded the steerage cook for using too much salt pork in a lobscouse he was preparing for breakfast.  From this time forward, the steerage passengers will insist on having their allowance of meat weighed out daily.  This afternoon the weekly allowance of tea, sugar, butter, cheese, molasses and vinegar was served out by the mate for the use of the steerage passengers.  Distance sailed, 91 miles.  Lat. 33&deg; 31'.  Therm. at M. 64&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and today the wind has been ahead, consequently we have made very little progress.  We hope soon to fall in with the south-east "trades," which will waft us to the equator in a short time.  The weather is daily becoming milder, which has brought the passengers on deck attired in their summer costumes.  Flannel shirts and other woolen clothing have been stowed snugly away for future use.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Yesterday the after-cabin gamblers, not having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:the fear of Captain Fairfowl's mandate before their eyes, commenced operations again.  The game during the day was " <HI REND="italics">keno</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, May</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Have been becalmed all day with the sails flapping lazily against the masts.  We were not looking for a dead calm in this latitude; but during our pilgrimage in this world of woe, we must take things as they come and thank God they are no worse.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Steerage mess No. 1 furnished the cook with apples for dumplings which were served at dinner, but they were very unsavory in consequence of of having been <HI REND="italics">boiled in salt water</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The blacklegs have been busily at work again to-day.  Toward night they came to grief.  One of the boys won $300, which bursted the bank!  At sundown this evening, a passenger reported from the maintop-sail yard a sail on our lee-bow, distant about 20 miles.  Distance sailed, 41 miles.  Lat. 31&deg; 13'.  Therm. at M. 68&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The calm still continues, and during last night and to-day the brig has not made 10 miles on her course.  The weather has been plesant and the sea smooth.  I have been perusing a file of Boston papers brought on board by our first mate.  They contain several letters written by the passengers of the steamer <HI REND="italics">Crescent City</HI>
149.sgm: on her first trip to Chagres.  The letters were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We are still in the "horse latitudes," and the wind has been blowing a "Paddy's hurricane" during the past twenty-four hours.  This is the first month of winter in this latitude, and the weather is as mild and balmy as midsummer in the United States.  As we approach our port of destination, fire-arms and mining implements increase rapidly in value.  Twenty-five dollars has been offered and refused for revolvers that cost $10 in Philadelphia.  A gold-washer that cost $6 was sold to-day for $15, and I refused an offer of $3 for a hand-pick that cost me only fifty cents.  I am waiting for an advance in the market before I unload.  At meridian the sun was obscured by clouds, therefore no observation was taken.  I imagine, however, that we are in the neighborhood of 30&deg; south latitude.  Distance sailed, by log, 23 miles.  Therm. at M. 64&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Head-wind and very little of that.  Our expectations of reaching the equator in fifteen days from Talcahuana have already <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:vanished like a dream.  One week has elapsed since we left that port and we have made scarcely one-third of the distance.  When the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Early last evening the wind died away, and during the remainder of the night and this forenoon we have been becalmed.  At one o'clock this afternoon a fresh breeze sprang up from the south, which wafted us along at the rate of seven knots an hour until sundown, when we were again becalmed.  The brig is rolling lazily; the sails are flapping against the masts and rigging, and the yards and booms are creaking and moaning fearfully.  Distance sailed, 70 miles.  Lat. 28&deg; 41'.  Therm. at M. 70&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind has been very light during the past twenty-four hours, barely sufficient to keep steerage-way on the brig.  This forenoon I tried my hand at washing soiled unmentionables, socks and towels, and succeeded beyond my most sanguine expectations.  I was less fortunate in the drying process, there being no clothes-line on which to hang my "wash."</P>
149.sgm:<P>A convoy of Cape pigeons has followed the brig <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>This afternoon the cabin passengers have amused themselves by playing monte&acute; and faro, and the steerage passengers have killed time by firing their rifles and pistols at porter and wine bottles suspended from the yards.  Distance sailed, 55 miles.  Lat.27&deg; 51'.  Therm. at M. 70&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The weather to-day has been delightful, but the calm continues, and we are not happy.  This morning I witnessed one of the grandest scenes of my life, and one that I shall probably never again behold.  I beheld at the same moment the god of day lift his golden head above the waves of the ocean to resume his diurnal course, and the goddess of night, after having performed her wonted task, sink into the embrace of the great deep.  It was a scene of great sublimity, and every soul on board gazed upon it with feelings of reverence mingled with admiration.  During the forenoon the stern-boat was lowered and manned by the passengers for the purpose of towing the brig.  A line was made fast to the bowsprit and attached to the stern of the boat, and the boatmen plied their oars merrily for a couple of hours, but the brig moved so slowly that they became disheartened, and, casting off the line, gave three hearty cheers, and started on a private pleasure excursion.  In about two hours they returned and the boat was soon filled with another party, who started on an exploring expedition to the windward.  In about an hour they returned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night, at eight o'clock, a light but fair breeze sprang up from the south, which we have carried all day with studding-sails set below and aloft.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Last evening the passengers mustered on the quarter-deck for the purpose of having a dance.  The "El Dorado Band" played a variety of lively airs, which were accompanied by the "light fantastic toes" of a majority of the passengers.  At nine o'clock, P.M., Captain Fairfowl spread a collation in the after-cabin, to which all hands were invited.  Distance sailed, 82 miles.  Lat. 26&deg; 03'.  Therm. at M. 64&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and to-day we have been favored with a fair wind, and the brig at this time, six o'clock, P.M., is making five knots an hour.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The weather has been cloudy all day, with strong indications of rain.  Last night the steerage cook was ordered by the Captain to keep watch, which so exasperated him that he did not turn out this morning at the usual hour to commence his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:culinary duties.  The old skipper called him aft and asked him why he had not kindled a fire in the galley, as usual.  He informed the Captain that he would not perform the duties of both cook and sailor--he shipped as cook, and would perform that duty only.  He was ordered by the Captain to go forward and commence operations in the galley at once, but being rather dilatory in his movements, the old skipper seized a rope and commenced plying it briskly over his back and shoulders, at the same time ordering him to go forward, which command he obeyed very reluctantly.  In a few moments he was again called aft by the Captain, who ordered the mate to seize him up in the main rigging for punishment.  The cook informed the Captain that he <HI REND="italics">was not on board a man-of-war</HI>
149.sgm:, and would not submit to a flogging.  The old skipper did not wait upon the order of going, but went for the knight of pots and kettles immediately, and for a few moments there was a lively time on board the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night and to-day the brig has been skimming over the water <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Our prospects of reaching California by the 20th of next month are now very promising.  If we are not becalmed on the "line," we shall make an average run between Talcahuana and San Francisco.  The weather to-day has been damp, with an occasional sprinkling of rain.  We are now in the tropics, having crossed Capricorn this forenoon.  This afternoon all the sugar on board the brig was taken aft and served out in equal portions to each individual on board.  Each person received five and a half pounds--six weeks' allowance, according to the United States Naval ration.  Since we left Talcahuanna the cabin passengers have been using the sugar rather extravagantly, which caused the Captain to divide it <HI REND="italics">pro rata</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Sunday at sea--Light and baffling winds--Man-of-war birds shot--Fresh pork--Canchalagua pills--Passengers on their muscle--Crossing the equator--Old Neptune initiates one of the sailors--Bed-bugs and fleas--Our old skipper under the weather--Fourth of July at sea--Jolly time and no whisky--Ship ahoy!--Visit from the passengers of the ship <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the last twenty-four hours we have been gliding along over a smooth sea, at the rate of nine knots an hour.  A Scotch mist has been falling at intervals throughout the night and to-day.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The day has passed away very quietly--something unusual for Sunday.  The sailors rigged themselves out in their Sunday toggery, and most of the passengers turned over a new leaf by putting on a "biled" shirt.  At dinner, the steerage passengers were treated by the cabin steward to mince-pies for dessert, and I will do the old darkey the justice to say they did him great credit.  No observation.  Distance sailed, by log, 168 miles.  Therm. at M. 68&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A ten-knot breeze during the past twenty-four hours has rendered all hands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night we made an unusually good run, but to-day the wind has been light and baffling.  Strong indications of another calm are visible.  This forenoon the members of the "Perseverance Mining Company" commenced work on a sail for their batteaux, which will save them many a tug at the oar.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At one o'clock this afternoon, one of the passengers in the maintop reported a sail on our weather-bow, distant about 15 miles.  The stranger is heading the same direction we are, and is most likely a California passenger vessel.  Distance sailed, 150 miles.  Lat. 19&deg; 05'.  Therm. at M. 70&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>All last night the wind was light and baffling, and before daylight the brig completely "boxed the compass."  At eight o'clock, A.M., a light breeze sprang up from the south-west, which we have carried the balance of the day, but have made very little progress.  For some unexplained cause, the south-east "trades" have left us in the lurch, which is a great disappointment.  We expected they would waft us to the equator.  Two vessels heading north have been in sight all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind continued light and baffling, and early this morning it died away to a dead calm.  At nine o'clock, A.M., a rain-squall suddenly sprang up from the south-west, and we have carried a five-knot breeze during the remainder of the day.  The weather has been hazy and showery.  One of the sailors who had the wheel during the morning watch, thinking that the time passed away rather slowly, removed the watch from the binnacle and undertook to move the hands ahead, but being more accustomed to handling a marline-spike than a timepiece, he broke both hands.  The watch was a gold lever belonging to one of the passengers, who read jack-tar a lecture in very forcible language.  Distance sailed, 70 miles.  Lat. 17&deg; 38'.  Therm. at M. 69&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Fair wind and plenty of it during last night and to-day.  The brig has been flying over the water before a ten-knot breeze.  The yards are square and every drawing sail set--a sight that a sailor's eye delights to dwell upon, and one that is not unpleasing to a landsman after having been five months at sea.  The weather has been mild and pleasant.  Distance sailed, 170 miles.  Lat. 16&deg; 03'.  Therm. at M. 70&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The continued fair wind has sent the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: jumping through the water at the rate of ten knots an hour.  If we are fortunate enough to escape a calm on the equator, and are blessed with this wind for thirty consecutive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The passengers are now organizing companies in order to be ready for action immediately upon their arrival in California.  There are several professional gentlemen on board who, when they left Philadelphia, informed their friends that they were going to California to practice their professions; but they, too, have recently joined mining companies, believing that they can put more money in their purses by handling the spade and pick, than by perusing musty law books or serving out potions of jalap, calomel and quinine.  Several "man-of-war" birds were shot this afternoon by one of the cabin passengers.  Distance sailed, 191 miles.  Lat. 14&deg; 52'.  Therm. at M. 74&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We are still blessed with a fair wind and delightful weather, and are gliding rapidly along toward the land of promise.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This morning the Captain expressed his intention of crossing the equator between 112&deg; and 115&deg; west longitude.  Should we cross the line as far west as 115&deg; we shall not be to the northward of it before this day week.  This has been one of the most quiet Sabbaths passed on board the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: since she left Philadelphia.  During the first four months of the voyage a growl on Sunday between the Captain and passengers or crew was looked for regularly, and I regret to state that we were seldom disappointed.  Captain Fairfowl is one of those old sea-dogs who cannot survive without an occasional growl.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We have carried an eight-knot breeze throughtout last night and to-day, and the weather has been delightfully pleasant.  All hands, including the cook, are in good humor.  Now that we are on the last quarter of our voyage, the passengers are busily engaged overhauling their tents and mining utensils.  One of our mining companies has been employed during the past two days making a tent of material purchased at Rio de Janeiro.  Not being accustomed to the use of the palm and needle, they have made but very little progress.  Distance sailed, 164 miles.  Lat. 12&deg; 01'.  Therm. at M. 76&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A favorable wind during the past twenty-four hours has wafted us along at the rate of nine knots an hour.  The weather is gradually becoming warmer--this being the hottest day experienced since we doubled Cape Horn.  We shall in all probability soon have occasion to use the awnings and wind-sails, as the weather must necessarily be hot at this season of the year north of the equator.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This afternoon the Captain opened his heart and ordered a hog killed, a portion of which will be made into a sea-pie to-morrow for the steerage passengers.  Distance sailed, 161 miles.  Lat. 10&deg; 21'.  Therm. at M. 77&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind continues fair, but is gradually growing lighter as we approach the equator.  This has been general washday with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:passengers.  Lines stretched across the deck are loaded with wet clothes, as also are the stays, rigging and spanker-boom.  Salt-water soap is just now in great demand among the <HI REND="italics">washermen</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I have been engaged to-day making a knapsack, which will no doubt be of great service to me in the gold diggings.  Distance sailed, 160 miles.  Lat. 8&deg; 52'.  Therm. at M. 79&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and to-day the "trades" have wafted us along at the rate of eight knots an hour.  We have carried the trade-winds for the last fifteen days, and hope to hold them until we pass the equator.  The sky has been cloudless and the weather hot, but not oppressive.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Last night several of the passengers "took up their beds and walked" on deck, where they slept until morning, undisturbed by bugs or fleas.  This morning I treated myself to a dose of Captain Fairfowl's famous <HI REND="italics">Canchalagua</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind throughout last night and to-day has been very light, and I fear that we shall be becalmed before we reach the equator.  The weather has been hot and sultry, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>For the last twenty-four hours the wind has been fair but light, yet, with the aid of all drawing sails, we have made a very fair run.  The weather has been cloudy all day.  This evening a shower of rain fell, which has cooled the atmosphere considerably, and rendered the early part of the night unusually pleasant.  Distance sailed, 140 miles.  Lat. 4&deg; 38'.  Therm. at M. 86&deg;.  Hot as blazes!</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night and to-day we have been skimming over the water before a seven-knot breeze, with studding-sails set below and aloft.  The atmosphere has been rather cooler, which has rendered the day very pleasant.  We have passed several schools of flying-fish, but none have been caught.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Now that the weather is growing warmer, the passengers are becoming as rabid as mad dogs.  At breakfast, this morning, three altercations occurred--two in the after-cabin and one in the steerage.  The steerage row commenced first, and passed off without any blows being struck.  The first quarrel in the cabin resulted similarly; but in the second melee a rough-and-tumble fight ensued, in which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The "trades" still continue, and all last night and to-day we have been ploughing through the water at the rate of seven knots an hour.  The sky has been cloudless and the weather pleasant.  We are now near the equator, and hope to cross it before daylight to-morrow morning.  We are half-way between Talcahuana and San Francisco, with the prospect of reaching the latter place within twenty-five days.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I have been on board the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We carried a seven-knot breeze throughout last night and to-day, which has placed us 160 miles nearer our port of destination.  The weather during the day has been delightful.  We crossed the equator at one o'clock this morning, in longitude 115&deg; 40' west.</P>
149.sgm:<P>When we crossed the dominions of Neptune, the old salt visited us, and initiated one of the crew.  The passengers refused to submit to the operation.  The soap used by Neptune on this occasion was highly perfumed with a compound of "villainous smells," and his razor was as dull as a lecture on woman's rights.  Distance sailed, 152 miles.  Lat. 1&deg; 06' north.  Therm. at M. 82&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>All last night and to-day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind hauled around to the southward and westward, and since that time we have been skimming along at the rate of seven knots an hour.  The heat was very oppressive, but to-day we have been fanned by a delightful breeze, which has in a slight degree counteracted the effects of the heat.  Since we left Talcahuana every berth in the brig has been overrun with bed-bugs and fleas, and the past two weeks our sufferings have been intolerable.  To-day several of the passengers have been figuring out the date of our arrival in San Francisco.  According to their ciphering we shall arrive there on the fifteenth of next month--if figures don't lie.  Distance sailed, 162 miles.  Lat. 5&deg; 26'.  Therm. at M. 82&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind has been blowing steadily from the south-west all day, and we have encountered several squalls accompanied by rain, thunder and lightning.  The wind has blown so fresh this afternoon that the Captain has taken in the studding-sails, furled the mainroyal and reefed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, June</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind hauled around to the northward, and to-day it has been light and baffling.  Squalls, accompanied by rain, have been frequent during the day.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I fear the next settled wind will prevent us from heading our course.  If so, we must be content, for it is an ill wind that blows no one good.  To-day considerable rain-water has been caught by the passengers, which will prove quite a god-send, for to-morrow is washday.  Captain Fairfowl has been quite unwell all day, and has remained in his berth most of the time.  There is a rumor floating about the brig that he has been sampling drugged wine again.  We are off Guatemala.  The sun being obscured, no observation was taken.  Distance sailed, by log, 130 miles.  Therm. at M. 78&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Our good luck is failing us.  During last night and to-day the wind has been unfavorable, which has headed us off our course five or six points.  The weather has been clear, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind was light and baffling, and to-day we have been becalmed.  The weather has been hot and oppressive.  The next wind that crosses our track will probably be the north-east "trades," the prevailing wind in these latitudes, and the sooner we meet with them the better; for, of all things on earth or ocean, a calm in the tropics is the most annoying.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The old skipper is on his pins again, and to-day resumed his accustomed duty.  One of his first acts was to release the sailor confined in irons on the 29th ult.  Distance sailed, 97 miles.  Lat. 13&deg; 18'.  Therm. at M. 82&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and to-day the ocean has been as smooth as a mirror, and the weather hot and sultry.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Fairfowl opened his heart this afternoon and presented to the steerage messes three turkeys, which will be served up for dinner to-morrow--the glorious Fourth!  Distance sailed, 16 miles.  No observation.  Therm. at M. 83&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Fourth of July and a dead <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Having partaken of the best dinner the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The regular and volunteer toasts having been read, Colonel Banks, in compliance with a request from the president, delivered an eloquent address, creditable alike to his head and heart.  The colonel was followed by two other passengers, one of whom <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:recited an Ode to the American Flag, and the other attempted to make a speech but, poor fellow, he got stuck! and in order to relieve him from his awkward predicament, a friend moved an adjournment <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At sundown, when the colors were hauled down, another salute was fired and three hearty cheers given, which aroused the fishes and caused old Neptune to send back the echo; and thus ended the 4th of July, 1849, at sea!  Everything passed off quietly and soberly.  There was no liquor on board!  Distance sailed, 20 miles.  Lat. 13&deg; 41'.  Therm. at M. 83&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The calm continued last night, but this forenoon a light breeze sprang up from the north-west, and although dead ahead, was hailed with joy by all hands on board, as a breeze from any quarter is preferable to a calm.  Last night I was so terribly annoyed by that lively and ubiquitous little "animile," the flea, that I was compelled to vacate my bunk and go on deck.  The rays of a tropical sun have been concentrated all day on my mattress and blankets, and I have also given the latter a salt-water douche.  I hope that the sun and salt-water combined have given the fleas their eternal quietus.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This forenoon, a ship, supposed to be a homeward-bound whaler, was reported on our lee-bow, distant about 15 miles.  This is the first vessel reported during four weeks.  For reasons best known to the Captain no observation was taken to-day.  Distance sailed, per log, 9 miles.  Therm. at M. 81&deg;.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and to-day there has not been sufficient wind to fill the sails, consequently they have been flapping listlessly against the masts and rigging.  The sky has been unclouded and the weather oppressive.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Early this morning we discovered on our lee-quarter a full-rigged ship, distant about 15 miles.  About two o'clock, P.M., a small sail, in the direction of the stranger, was seen approaching us, and when distant about 4 miles, our stern-boat was lowered and manned by passengers, who pulled merrily away toward the boat, which could now be distinctly made out without the aid of a glass.  In about forty minutes our boat returned, accompanied by the metallic life-boat <HI REND="italics">Crusoe</HI>
149.sgm:, belonging to and manned by seven of the passengers of the California passenger ship <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
149.sgm:, which sailed from New York on the 23d of January last.  We left the <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At the latter place intelligence from California down to the 1st of May had been received, which confirmed all previous reports in regard to the richness of the gold mines in that country.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Our guests partook of a collation of salt pork and hard-tack, lubricated with a little brandy from the doctor's medicine-chest, and at five o'clock, P.M., bade us adieu, and entering their boat, were soon gliding over the water toward their vessel, which was now distant about 10 miles.  When our friends shoved off three hearty cheers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Some time during last night a breeze sprang up from the north, which we have carried throughout the day.  We have been looking for the north-east "trades" during the past eight days, but have not yet found them.  "Hope deferred maketh the heart sick."  Either a head-wind or a dead-calm has been the order of the day the past week, and how long this will continue remains to be seen.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The news received from California by the visitors from the <HI REND="italics">Pacific</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind commenced hauling to the westward, and during the day we have been heading the course laid down by the Captain, and running before a strong south-west wind at the rate of six knots an hour.  A strong head-sea has been running during the day, which has somewhat impeded our progress.</P>
149.sgm:<P>We are now about 1,300 miles distant from the Golden Gate, with a fair wind that would waft us there in eight days, if the brig were allowed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Our last porker slaughtered--Cold weather in the tropics--Off Lower California--The Captain predicts a fair wind--Will wine vinegar inebriate?--Provisions and water scarce--Head-winds--First mate ordered below--Encounter a squall--The cook and cabin steward have a free fight--Fog and Scotch mist--Drift-wood--Brig ahoy!--Visit from the mate of the brig <HI REND="italics">Spencer</HI>
149.sgm: <P><HI REND="italics">Monday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind continued fair last night, and throughout to-day we have been steering north-west by west with all studding-sails set.  The wind is gradually hauling around to the eastward, and I should not be surprised if we were to fall in with the north-east "trades" within forty-eight hours.  The weather has been clear and pleasant, and the passengers have spent most of the day on deck.  We are to-day off the coast of Mexico.  Distance sailed, 110 miles.  Lat. 17&deg; 04'.  Therm. at M. 81&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind hauled around to the south-east, and during the day it has changed to the north-east, from which quarter it is still blowing quite fresh.  We have been heading north-west by west all day, and running at the rate of eight knots an hour.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The weather up to three o'clock, P.M., has been warm and pleasant, but from that time to the present <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The last two nights a heavy dew has fallen, which has thoroughly wet the deck and rigging.  Our last porker was slaughtered to-day; therefore, we may expect a good dinner to-morrow.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Our last pig is slaughtered<LB>For to-morrow's sea-stew,<LB>And we'll go for that porker<LB>Like Yankees, true blue!</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Distance sailed, 139 miles.  Lat. 19&deg; 03'.  Therm. at M. 72&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night and to-day we have been wafted along by the north-east "trades" at the rate of eight knots an hour; but the brig is still heading north-west by west, although we are two degrees to the westward of our port of destination!  The weather is damp and chilly, reminding one more of fall in the United States than midsummer in the tropics.  The thermometer this evening is down to 70&deg;, and overcoats are in demand among the passengers.  The past two days the members of the "Perseverance Mining Company" have been employed painting their boats, in order to be in readiness for a start up the Sacramento immediately upon their arrival in San Francisco.  Distance sailed, 172 miles.  Lat. 20&deg; 50'.  Therm. at M. 78&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We are still being driven to the north-west by the "trades" at the rate of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A head-wind to-day has prevented us from steering within six points of our course.  There is a variation of the compass of about one point in our favor, but this is nearly, if not quite, overbalanced by the lee-way occasioned by a strong head-sea that has been running the past five days.  The weather is so cold that the passengers have dressed themselves <HI REND="italics">cap-a-pie</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The month of October in Philadelphia is more mild and pleasant than have been the past five days in the tropics.  This forenoon we crossed the Tropic of Cancer, and if we are permitted to steer our course during the next six days, we shall at the expiration of that time be at anchor in the Bay of San Francisco.  Distance sailed, 134 miles.  Lat. 23&deg; 56'.  Therm. at M. 68&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind is still north-east, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The head-winds which have prevailed during the past week have given all hands the blues, and they move silently about the deck with elongated visages, reminding one very much of a disconsolate widow or a young married man with a strong-minded mother-in-law.  Distance sailed, 118 miles.  Lat. 25&deg; 25'.  Therm. at M. 68&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind veered a little to the northward, and to-day we have been heading nearly a due west course.  The wind has been very light, and all on board are inclined to the belief that it will haul around to the westward very soon or die away entirely.  The sun has been obscured by clouds nearly all day, and the weather has been chilly and unpleasant.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This Sabbath has passed off very quietly, neither a fight nor a growl having occurred--an unusual circumstance.  One of the passengers of the Irish persuasion, however, not having the fear of Father Mathew before his eyes, managed this evening to get gloriously drunk on wine vinegar, but he is very docile.  This morning at sunrise the mercury in the thermometer was down to 66&deg;.  Distance sailed, 126 miles.  Lat. 26&deg; 33'.  Therm. at M. 68&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We are still wrestling with an adverse wind, and the weather is damp and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>A box of clothing belonging to one of the passengers, stowed in the hold since we left Rio, was opened to-day and its contents found to be very much injured by mould and mildew.  Distance sailed, 88 miles.  Lat. 27&deg; 12'.  Therm. at M. 69&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind hauled around to the northward and eastward, and since that time we have been heading north-west, but in consequence of being so close on the wind we have made very little progress.  The wind is dead ahead, and so good-bye, San Francisco, until it changes.  The sun has been obscured by clouds nearly all day, and the weather continues chilly and disagreeable.  Provisions are getting scarce--some articles being entirely exhausted.  The hold was broken out to-day for pork, but not a single barrel could be found.  The sugar and cheese are also among the things that were but are not, and the water is nearly all gone.  The truth of the matter is, we are in one of those predicaments sometimes narrated but not often experienced.  Distance sailed, 87 miles.  Lat. 27&deg; 43'.  Therm. at M. 68&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind hauled back to the northward, and this forenoon it veered still further around and resumed its old position in the north-east.  This afternoon we have been heading north-west, but owing to a head-sea have made very little progress.  If the wind continues in the north-east during the next eight days, we shall be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The weather this forenoon was quite winterish.  At meridian the clouds that have shrouded the sky the past week broke away, and the sun shone brightly for about two hours.  The latter part of the day has been squally, with occasional showers.  The crew has been employed to-day painting the brig.  Distance sailed, 84 miles.  Lat. 28&deg; 53'.  Therm. at M. 68&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and today the wind has been blowing steadily from the north-east, and we have been sailing as closehauled as possible.  The weather has been cloudy, damp and chilly, and all hands have the dumps.  How long we shall be knocked about by adverse winds, is one of those things that no "feller" can find out.  At meridian San Francisco bore north-east by north, distant 800 miles.  The crew has been reeving new signal-halyards, repairing the side-ladders, and doing other odd jobs, in order to get the brig "ship-shape" before reaching port.  Distance sailed, 112 miles.  Lat. 30&deg; 15'.  Therm. at M. 68&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The north-east trades still continue, which prevents us from heading higher than north-west by north.  We did not expect to carry the trades farther north than latitude 28&deg;, but in this, as well as in many other things, we have been sadly disappointed.  I have now come to the conclusion that we are booked for a passage of <HI REND="italics">two hundred days</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This morning Captain Fairfowl ordered his first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind hauled a point to the eastward, and to-day we have been steering N.N.W.  We shall probably be in the latitude of San Francisco on Wednesday next.  The Captain will then tack the brig and stand to the eastward, wind permitting.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the moon dispersed the clouds, and to-day the atmosphere has been clear and the weather cool.  Three large sea-birds have followed the brig for the past three weeks, and during that time at least fifty shots have been fired at them by the passengers without effect.  They appear to bear charmed lives.  At all events, they are shot and bullet-proof.  Distance sailed, 108 miles.  Lat. 33&deg; 11'.  Therm. at M. 67&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>All last night and up to six o'clock, P.M., to-day, the wind has blown steadily from the north-east, and the brig has been heading a north-by-west course.  At seven o'clock this evening the wind hauled around to the south-east, which has enabled us to lay our course for the space of <HI REND="italics">fifteen minutes</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The sun has been obscured by clouds nearly all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Early this morning the Captain reported a vessel on our weather-bow, distant about 15 miles, and in two hours afterward it could not be seen.  It was probably a California-bound steamer.  Distance sailed, 122 miles.  Lat. 35&deg; 01'.  Therm. at M. 67&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Last night the wind was light and baffling, and to-day the face of the great deep has been unruffled by a breeze.  We have lost the north-east trades, and I hope the next wind we fall in with will be a fair one, for things are getting rather monotonous.  The weather has been warmer than on any previous day the past two weeks.  I availed myself of the sunshine, and washed and dried sundry shirts and towels.  Several turtles have been seen floating on the surface of the water at no great distance from the brig.  As we shall not run much farther to the northward, I will, during the remainder of the voyage, record longitude, as well as the latitude.  Distance sailed, 72 miles.  Lat. 36&deg; 11' long. 139&deg; 02' west.  Therm. at M. 73&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night and to-day the wind has been light and baffling, and a part of the time we have been becalmed.  The entire day has been a succession of variable breezes and calms.  This morning at eight o'clock the brig was put about three times in about the time it requires to record the fact, and on the last tack she headed her course <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<HI REND="italics">twenty minutes</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The calm of yesterday continued throughout last night.  Early this morning the wind commenced hauling to the southward, and at this time, eight o'clock, A.M., it is blowing from the south-west.  Although the wind has been light, by the aid of studding-sails we have managed to make about three knots an hour.  Captain Fairfowl is of the opinion that the present wind will waft us into port.  God grant that it may, for our water and provisions are getting very scarce, and much suffering will occur should the voyage be prolonged another month.  Distance sailed, 42 miles.  Lat. 37&deg; 12' long. 139&deg; 10'.  Therm. at M. 70&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind increased gradually last night, and up to four o'clock this afternoon we have been heading our course at the rate of six knots an hour with studding-sails set below and aloft.  This afternoon at five o'clock we encountered a squall accompanied by rain, during which the wind hauled around to the north, and is blowing an eight-knot breeze from that quarter.</P>
149.sgm:<P>This forenoon the cabin cook and steward had a rough-and-tumble fight about their relative positions, in which both parties were severely pummeled.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:The cook gave the steward a whack on his <HI REND="italics">cabasa</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>All last night we headed our course and ran at the rate of six knots an hour.  At ten o'clock this forenoon the wind hauled around to the north-east which headed us off, and the Captain put the brig about and ran to the north-west until three o'clock, P.M., when the wind hauled a little more to the northward, and the brig was again put about, but on this tack she could not lay within two points of her course, in consequence of the variations of the compass and the lee-way, which were both against her.  The weather during the day has been damp and chilly, the mercury in the thermometer having fallen <HI REND="italics">ten degrees</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Yesterday all hands were very much elated with the prospect of reaching San Francisco in the course of four of five days, but the sudden change in wind and weather to-day has saddened their hearts, and they look as crest-fallen as disappointed politicians.  We are on an allowance of three pints of water each.  Distance sailed, 142 miles.  Lat. 37&deg; 30' long. 135&deg; 30'.  Therm. at M. 64&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At midnight last night the brig was put about, and she ran north-west by west until ten o'clock this forenoon, when she was put on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Sunday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Early last night the wind hauled to the north-west, and since that time we have been running our course at the rate of six knots an hour.  A heavy head-sea has been running all day, which has somewhat retarded our progress.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The cold weather and rough sea causes reminiscences of Cape Horn to flit through the mind.  Owing to the favorable wind the Captain has added a pint of water to our daily allowance.  Cloudy weather; no observation.  Distance sailed, per log, 86 miles.  Therm. at M. 62&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Monday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night and to-day we have been heading our course and jogging slowly along at the rate of four knots an hour.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Were it not for the strong head-sea constantly butting against the bow of the brig, our speed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Our hearts were gladdened this forenoon by the appearance of the sun for the first time in two days.  Toward the close of the afternoon the weather became thick and foggy, and at this time, eight o'clock, P.M., a Scotch mist is falling which will probably turn into rain before morning.  At meridian to-day, San Francisco bore due east, distant 383 miles.  Distance sailed, 87 miles.  Lat. 37&deg; 49'; long. 130&deg; 01'.  Therm. at M. 62&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, July</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Throughout last night and to-day the brig has been heading her course under a seven-knot breeze.  The wind has gradually increased since noon, and at this time, seven o'clock, P.M., it is blowing a gale.  If the atmosphere should be clear to-morrow we hope to sight land.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The weather during the day has been foggy and chilly--the thermometer at five o'clock this morning being 58&deg;.  The past two days, large quantities of drift-wood, sea-weed and kelp have floated past us--strong indications that land is not far distant.  A great change in the color of the water has also been apparent within the past thirty hours; and this evening wild geese and a species of duck that does not venture far from land, flew past us.  Distance sailed, 160 miles.  Lat. 38&deg; 30'; long. 127&deg; 38'.  Therm. at M. 59&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, August</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind blew so fresh all night that the brig was hove to, and remained in that position until daylight this morning, when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>During the day we have been enveloped by a dense fog which has prevented us from seeing half a mile in any direction.  The anchors were got over the bow ready to be let go should occasion require.  Land-birds have been hovering about  the brig all day.  Distance sailed, 30 miles.  Lat. 38&deg; 28'; long. 125&deg; 08'.  Therm. at M. 58&deg;.</P>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Thursday, Aug.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Light and baffling winds, a dense fog and damp and chilly weather all day.  At sundown the fog partially lifted, which enabled us to get a glimpse of the "land of promise," directly ahead and distant about 10 miles.  Later in the evening, the fog disappeared, and we could define the bold outlines of the coast for many miles.  The Captain says we are some 15 miles to the northward of the harbor of San Francisco, therefore we shall lay off and on during the night and run into port to-morrow, wind permitting.  Soon after making the land we discovered a vessel close in shore evidently bearing down toward us.  When distant about 3 miles, she lowered a boat, and in three-quarters of an hour thereafter, we were boarded by her first mate, accompanied by a cabin passenger.  The stranger proved to be the English brig <HI REND="italics">Spencer</HI>
149.sgm:, from Sydney, New South Wales, bound for San Francisco, with thirteen passengers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:and a cargo consisting principally of provisions, spirits and clothing.  The mate of the <HI REND="italics">Spencer</HI>
149.sgm: boarded us for the purpose of ascertaining his whereabouts, which Captain Fairfowl defined to his entire satisfaction.  The <HI REND="italics">Spencer</HI>
149.sgm: had been becalmed and befogged since Monday last on this "blarsted" coast.  Our Captain presented the mate, at parting, with a copy of the <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Friday, Aug.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During last night the wind was very light, and to-day we have been in the midst of light breezes and calms.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Captain took an observation at noon and found that we were 22 miles to the northward of the port of San Francisco.  This afternoon we have been running slowly down the coast.  Several of the passengers are so anxious to get on shore that they have been ahead in one of the boats nearly all the afternoon towing the brig.</P>
149.sgm:<P>When we tacked the brig this forenoon and stood down the coast, the brig <HI REND="italics">Spencer</HI>
149.sgm: followed us, but before two o'clock, P.M., we lost sight of her.  The land was visible until eleven o'clock, A.M., when the fog hid it from our view.  The fog the past week has been so dense that the sun has been obscured most of the time.  During the day whales, porpoises, puffing-pigs, sea-lions, seals and sharks have been seen in all directions.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p><HI REND="italics">Saturday, Aug</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The wind died away last night about ten o'clock, and up to four o'clock, P.M., we have not made ten miles.  This forenoon the water has been as smooth as a mirror, but the fog is so dense that we cannot see twice the length of the brig.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At half-past four o'clock, P.M., the fog lifted a little, and we discovered a sail directly ahead, about 4 miles distant.  Soon after a boat left the stranger and was shortly alongside of us.  The vessel proved to be the schooner <HI REND="italics">John L. Day</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At five o'clock, P.M., we made the Farallone Islands, bearing south by east, distant some 3 miles.  The Farallones are a mass of barren rocks, projecting several hundred feet above the surface of the water, and are inhabited only by sea-fowl, sealions and seals.  They bear west by south from San Francisco, and are about 25 miles distant from that port.  At half-past five o'clock a four-knot breeze sprang up, and at this writing, eight o'clock, P.M., we are within l2 miles of the Golden Gate.  We shall anchor to-night off the mouth of the harbor and run in to-morrow morning, wind permitting.  Distance sailed, 31 miles.  Lat. 37&deg; 58'; long. 123&deg; 42'.  Therm. at M. 64&deg;.</P></DIV>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Pass through the Golden Gate and come to anchor in the harbor of San Francisco--Visit the town--The Bank-Street dry-goods dealer--Recapitulation of the voyage--Scene at the post-office--Happy Valley--Leave the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: --Intelligence from the mines--San Francisco as it was--Crime and its punishment--The Parker House and its gambling-tables--Climate of San Francisco--Start for the mines--Mosquitoes and <HI REND="italics">tule&acute;s</HI>
149.sgm: --Arrival at Stockton--Stockton in '49-- <HI REND="italics">En route</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sunday, Aug</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The cable had scarcely ceased rattling over the bitts, before half a dozen shore-boats, manned by piratical-looking beach-combers, were alongside of us, which were soon filled with passengers at $2 per head.  Not being overstocked with the one thing needful, I concluded to await a passage ashore in one of the brig's boats, which the Captain informed me would be ready in a few hours.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The first Philadelphian that came on board was a man named Brown, formerly a dry-goods merchant in Bank Street, in that city.  Mr. Brown, like a sensible man, availed himself of the Isthmus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ENTRANCE TO THE GOLDEN GATE.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Immediately after dinner the boat was got ready, and I went ashore for letters, but on reaching the post-office I found it closed, which caused me to turn away with a sad heart.  I soon returned on board the brig and commenced arranging my baggage preparatory to transferring it on shore.</P>
149.sgm: <P>The following is a recapitulation of the voyage of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Sailed from Philadelphia, January 16, 1849, and arrived at Rio de Janeiro on the 6th of March following; number of days at sea, 49; distance sailed, 6,088 miles.  Remained in Rio, 12 days.  Sailed from Rio de Janeiro March 18, and arrived at Talcahuana, Chili, May 14; number of days at sea, 57; distance sailed, 6,156 miles.  Remained in Talcahuana, 13 days.  Sailed from Talcahuana May 27, and arrived at San Francisco, August 5, 1849; number of days at sea, 70; distance sailed, 7,064 miles.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Total number of days at sea,<HSEP>176</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  "  "  in different ports,<HSEP>25</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  "  "  from Philadelphia to San Francisco,<HSEP>201</P>
149.sgm:<P>Total number of miles sailed between Philadelphia and San Francisco,<HSEP>19,308</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>At daylight on the morning of the 6th, I went ashore in the market-boat and again wended my way over the sand-hills to the post-office, where I found some two hundred individuals already formed in file at the delivery-window anxiously awaiting the opening of the office.  I filed in at the rear of the line formed at the window; at seven o'clock, A.M., the shutters were unbarred and thrown open, and the delivery of mail-matter commenced.  After remaining in the line upwards of two hours, I reached the window and received three letters and a <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
149.sgm:, containing my letter written for that paper at Rio.  I clutched the letters with a nervous hand and with fear and trembling broke the seals and glanced hurriedly over their contents.  They contained intelligence from the States up to the month of June, and, when I learned that the loved ones in their far-away home were all well, my heart leaped with joy.  On my way down to the <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:<P>In the afternoon I visited the encampment of the gold-diggers in Happy Valley, for the purpose of selecting a site on which to pitch my tent.  On the following day I moved my luggage ashore, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BEACH OF YERBA BUENA COVE, 1849.</P>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>POST-OFFICE, 1849.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:located myself among the sojourners there.  My provisions and mining implements were soon landed from the <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:, and I made the necessary arrangements for spending a few weeks in San Francisco as comfortably as possible.  I learned from the experienced in such matters, that the water in the tributaries of the Sacramento and San Joaquin was too high to admit of working in the wet diggings to advantage, and that the dry diggings could not be successfully worked until late in the fall, after the rainy season had set in.  I therefore concluded to remain in San Francisco until the middle of September.  The limited state of my finances-- <HI REND="italics">six dollars and seventy-five cents, all told</HI>
149.sgm:<P>San Francisco--formerly Yerba Buena--is a queer place.  It contains at this time a dozen <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:structures and perhaps two hundred roughly-constructed frame buildings, mostly shipped around Cape Horn.  The beach, Happy Valley, for the space of two miles, is covered with canvas and rubber tents, and the adjacent sand-hills are dotted to their summits with these frail but convenient tenements of the prospective miner.  The population, numbering perhaps five thousand, is as heterogeneous as their habitations.  It seems as though every nation on the face of the earth had sent a representative to this place, and that they had all arrived with their credentials.  Such a medley of languages and jargon of tongues the world has seldom seen.  It is a modern Babel.  Yet, paradoxical as it may seem, it is nevertheless true, that life and property are as secure here as in the cities of New York, Boston or Philadelphia, and fire-arms are seldom carried as weapons of defense by either citizens or strangers.  The commission of a theft is a rare occurrence, although millions of dollars' worth of merchandise is "lying around loose" and unguarded.  The raid by the citizens on the "Hounds," a gang of cut-throats and thieves, and the incarceration of five of the ringleaders on board the U.S. sloop-of-war <HI REND="italics">Warren</HI>
149.sgm:, some four weeks previous to our arrival, has completely revolutionized affairs in San Francisco and placed a wholesome check on roguery.  It is universally conceded in this country, that hanging <HI REND="italics">is not</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE "HOUNDS" ON A RAMPAGE.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>There are lying at anchor in the harbor of San Francisco at this time, four U.S. vessels of war and upwards of two hundred sail of merchantmen, most of the latter being without crews, the gold fever having <HI REND="italics">carried them off</HI>
149.sgm: to the mines.  Rents are enormously high.  The Parker House, the principal hotel in town, rents for <HI REND="italics">one hundred and seventy-five thousand dollars per annum</HI>
149.sgm:!  The tenants are principally gamblers, who, in some instances, pay as high as $1,000 per month for the privilege of running a <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
149.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">faro</HI>
149.sgm: table.  The <HI REND="italics">roulette, keno, rattle-and-snap</HI>
149.sgm: and other small-fry gamblers pay less amounts, but I am inclined to the belief that they put as much money in their purses as do their more aristocratic neighbors.  The gaming-tables are always crowded with those who have no better sense than to stake their last ounce of dust on the "hazard of a die."  If the fickle goddess smiles on them, well and good; if she frowns, and they lose the last farthing in their possession, they immediately hie away to the mines, and after having filled their buckskin pouches with the "dust," return and buck against <HI REND="italics">faro</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
149.sgm: until their purses are again depleted, and then once more to the mines to retrieve their lost fortunes.  In ninety-nine cases out of every hundred, the <HI REND="italics">more</HI>
149.sgm: an individual puts down on a gaming-table the <HI REND="italics">less</HI>
149.sgm: he takes up.  In the Parker House and El Dorado, full brass bands are engaged at a cost of several hundred dollars a night to draw victims into their toils-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Step into my parlor, said the spider to the fly."</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Pyramids of golden nuggets of various sizes, aggregating in value thousands of dollars, are displayed on the gambling-tables to excite the avarice and cupidity of the unwary.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mrs. Grundy has not yet arrived here, consequently social and society lines have not been strictly drawn.  One man is equally as good as another, and in some instances a little better.  Every one seems fully impressed with the belief that it is either "root hog or die"--the majority root!  All seem to be working harmoniously on the same plane.  A graduate of Yale considers it no disgrace to sell peanuts on the <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:, a disciple of Coke and Blackstone to drive a mule-team, nor a New York poet to sell the <HI REND="italics">New York Tribune</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The climate of San Francisco, though reputed healthy, is not agreeable to the unacclimated.  The mornings and evenings during the spring and summer months are damp and chilly, and at meridian the thermometer is usually somewhere in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PARKER HOUSE AND DENNISON'S EXCHANGE, 1849.</P>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INTERIOR OF EL DORADO SALOON, 1850.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On the 4th of September I began to make the necessary arrangements for my departure to the mines.  I exchanged my large sea-chest for a trunk, which I packed full of clothing and placed in a store-house, with the understanding that I should pay <HI REND="italics">three dollars per month</HI>
149.sgm: storage or forfeit the trunk and its contents at the expiration of six months.  The only articles of clothing I selected to take to the mines were two red flannel shirts, a pair of pilot-cloth pants, a pair of long mining boots and a Mexican <HI REND="italics">sombrero</HI>
149.sgm:.  I disposed of all my provisions, with the exception of a half-barrel of pork and a barrel of pilot-bread, which I concluded would serve for my subsistence until I could dig gold enough to replenish my stores.  It was several days before I could determine whether to visit the northern or southern mines.  I had heard nothing of the southern mines previous to my arrival in California, they having been discovered several months after the first gold was found by Marshall at Sutter's Mill.  The southern mines are reported more healthy than the northern and equally rich, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:therefore I concluded to give them the first trial.  Accordingly, on the morning of the 6th of September, I engaged passage on board the brigantine <HI REND="italics">Rambler</HI>
149.sgm:, Captain Dunham, bound for Stockton, on the San Joaquin River, distant from San Francisco 160 miles.  The <HI REND="italics">Rambler</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the forenoon I struck my tent and removed it, together with my provisions, on board the <HI REND="italics">Rambler</HI>
149.sgm:.  At one o'clock, P.M., accompanied by two of the <HI REND="italics">Osceola's</HI>
149.sgm: passengers, I went on board the brig, where I found some thirty adventurers <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At two o'clock, P.M., we left Suisun Bay and entered the San Joaquin River.  The wind and tide being favorable, we made a good run during <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S SAW-MILL. COLOMA, 1849.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>When the sun went down behind the <HI REND="italics">tule&acute;s</HI>
149.sgm: that night the mosquitoes rose up.  They swooped down upon us like the locusts of Egypt, with a determination to devour every <HI REND="italics">green</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Either side of the San Joaquin, from its entrance into Suisun Bay to within a few miles of Stockton, is bordered by a continuous <HI REND="italics">tule&acute;</HI>
149.sgm: marsh, and during the summer and fall all the mosquitoes in California hold high carnival here.  Early on the morning of the 8th we proceeded up the river with a fair wind and favorable tide.  Before night we came to the conclusion that our brig was either too large for the river, or the river too small for the brig.  Our Captain knew very little about seamanship, and less about the channel, therefore the brig ran aground several times during the day.  Whenever she grounded on a sand-bar or a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:mudflat, a rope was made fast to the taffrail and all hands went ashore among the <HI REND="italics">tule&acute;s</HI>
149.sgm: and mosquitoes and pulled her off.  Captain Dunham being of an irritable disposition, and never having experienced religion in the natural way, nor taken any stock in early piety, made things on board the <HI REND="italics">Rambler</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On my departure from San Francisco, I had received from Mr. George W. Wright, the junior partner of the firm of Palmer, Cook &amp; Co., a letter of introduction to a merchant in Stockton, of the name of Leland, whose acquaintance I made immediately upon landing, and was invited by him to remove my baggage on board his store-ship, tied up at the bank of the slough, and consider it my home as long as I remained in that place.  I gladly availed myself of his kind invitation, which was also extended to my two companions, the brothers Kelly, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CITY OF STOCKTON, FALL OF 1849.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The first object that met my view on landing at Stockton was that sure precursor of civilization, a rudely-constructed gallows, looming up in the distance, on which two persons had been executed for burglary a short time previous to my arrival.  Their graves were between the posts of the gibbet, unmarked by head or foot-board.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Stockton is located on a slough of the San Joaquin, about 3 miles above its entrance into that river, and contains some fifty roughly-constructed frame buildings, and probably one hundred canvas tents.  There are perhaps one thousand persons who claim a home in Stockton, and double that number who belong to what is termed the floating population, <HI REND="italics">hombres</HI>
149.sgm:, who are here to-day and gone to-morrow.  The town is located on an "eight-league square" tract of land granted to Captain Charles M. Weber, by the Mexican government, several years prior to the discovery of gold in this country.  Captain Weber had command of a company of volunteers in Commodore Stockton's battalion, during the Mexican and California war, and rendered essential service throughout that campaign.  Soon after the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill, Captain Weber laid out his model city, and gave to it the name of his old friend and companion-in-arms, Stockton.  Stockton in point of population and commercial advantages is the third city in California, being rivaled only by San Francisco and Sacramento City.  This thriving little city numbers among its pioneers and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>During my brief sojourn in Stockton, miners were constantly arriving from the different diggings, some in quest of provisions, and others <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm: to San Francisco for the purpose of returning to the States by the first conveyance.  Those who had gone to the mines with the determination to give them a thorough trial before crying <HI REND="italics">peccavi</HI>
149.sgm: were generally successful; but those who had expected to realize fortunes immediately upon reaching the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
149.sgm: were invariably disappointed, and becoming disheartened returned to San Francisco with their hands in their breeches' pockets, and their hearts very nearly in the same place.  I made it a rule to inquire of every miner I met about his success in the mines, and the best location for a green-hand to visit.  Some answered my interrogatories in a satisfactory manner, and others, not being overstocked with the milk of human kindness, intimated that I had better learn from experience.  I soon came to the latter conclusion, and commenced making the necessary preparations for my departure.  I packed my provisions in raw-hide sacks, engaged transportation mules, and on the morning of the 13th, accompanied by the brothers Kelly, set out for the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>First day and night on the road--Digger Indians--The surprise--Badly frightened--"Song of the Gold-Digger"--The wrong road--Arrival at the "diggins"--Commence operations--The result--Rich "diggins" reported--Start on a prospecting tour--Return disgusted--Discovery of a rich bar--Commence operations--Sickness of the Author--Return to Stockton--Leave Stockton for San Francisco--Changes wrought in two months--Canvass for a newspaper route--The <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>OUR first day's journey was over a level and sparsely-timbered country, thickly covered with wild oats and mustard.  Owing to the excessive heat of the weather and the proverbial stubbornness of our mules, we encamped the first night 12 miles from Stockton.  After the mules had been relieved of their loads and pack-saddles and securely tethered, we kindled a fire at the roots of a large oak, and, having eaten a hastily-prepared meal of broiled pork, pilot-bread and coffee, spread our blankets on the ground and turned in for the night.  When I awoke next morning, the muleteers had the animals packed ready for a start, and my companions were seated around the camp-fire discussing a pot of coffee which I helped them to dispatch, then shouldering our fire-arms we resumed our journey.  The heat and dust during the day were almost insupportable.  The dust in our trail was as hot as the ashes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>In the evening we visited the lodge of a party of Digger Indians <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On our return to camp we placed the muleteers on guard, and wrapping ourselves in our blankets, were soon fast in the embrace of Morpheus.  Just before daylight I was startled by the sharp report <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE ROAD TO THE MINES.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:of a rifle and a tremendous clattering of tin pans, pots and kettles.  I grasped my rifle, which was lying alongside of me, and sprang behind the nearest tree, where I found my two companions dodging about like lizards around a cabbage-tree, expecting every moment to be skewered by the arrow of an Indian.  I am not easily frightened, but I will confess that I felt a little nervous.  Our fears were soon relieved by one of the muleteers, who informed us that he had discharged his gun at a <HI REND="italics">coyote</HI>
149.sgm:.  The " <HI REND="italics">varmint</HI>
149.sgm:<P>After rolling up our blankets, we set about preparing our morning repast, which being completed at sunrise, we assisted the muleteers to pack the animals and again resumed our journey.  Charley Kelly and myself started ahead of the train, and being in a musical mood, I struck up the following song, to the air of "O Susannah," and my companion joined in the chorus:</P>
149.sgm:<P>SONG OF THE GOLD-DIGGER.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I came from Quakerdelphia<LB>With my wash-bowl on my knee<LB>I'm going to California,<LB>The gold-dust for to see.</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">It rained all night the day I left,<LB>The weather it was dry,<LB>The sun so hot I froze to death,<LB>O Anna, don't you cry!  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm: --O California!<LB>That's the land for me,<LB>I'm going to Calaveras,<LB>With my wash-bowl on my knee.<LB>II.<LB>The <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm: I did board,<LB>And traveled on the sea;<LB>And every time I thought of home,<LB>I wished it wasn't me!<LB>The brig she reared like any horse<LB>That had of oats a wealth--<LB>But she found she couldn't throw me,<LB>So I thought I'd throw myself.  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm: --O Ann Eliza!<LB>Don't you cry for me,<LB>I'm going to Calaveras,<LB>With my wash-bowl on my knee.<LB>III.<LB>I thought of all the pleasant times<LB>We'd had together, dear;<LB>I thought I ought to cry a bit,<LB>But couldn't find a tear;<LB>The pilot-bread was in my mouth,<LB>The gold-dust in my eye,<LB>And though from you I'm far away,<LB>Dear Anna, don't you cry.  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm: --O Ann Eliza!<LB>Don't you cry for me,<LB>I'm going to Calaveras,<LB>With my wash-bowl on my knee.</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">IV.<LB>I soon shall be in mining camp,<LB>And then I'll look around,<LB>And when I see the gold-dust there,<LB>I'll pick it off the ground.<LB>I'll scrape the mountains clean, old girl,<LB>I'll drain the rivers dry,<LB>A pocketful of rocks bring home,<LB>So, Anna, don't you cry.  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm: --O California!<LB>That's the land for me,<LB>I'm going to Calaveras,<LB>With my wash-bowl on my knee.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the morning we killed a hare and several quail.  We also saw in the trail the fresh footprint of a grizzly, and congratulated ourselves that the foot was not in it, for we had no desire to meet one of those animals, even under the most favorable circumstances.  We stopped on the bank of a small stream, 12 miles from our last encampment, and awaited the arrival of our companions and baggage.  After dinner, I again set out ahead of the train, and at four o'clock, P.M., arrived at <HI REND="italics">Dos Agua</HI>
149.sgm: --"double springs"--where I learned from a Sonorian that I had traveled some 4 miles beyond the trail that led to the Calaveras diggings.  After partaking of a cup of coffee, for which I paid fifty cents, I retraced my steps to the Calaveras trail, and though weary and footsore, pushed on as rapidly as possible after my companions, whom I overtook at sundown, as they were entering the Calaveras can&tilde;on.  I was completely exhausted, and spreading my blanket on the bank of the river, retired supperless for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>I suggested to my companions the propriety of messing together, to which they readily assented.  We accordingly pitched our tents under a large oak near the bank of the river, and spent the remainder of the day unpacking and arranging our stores and cooking utensils.  Although our provisions were joint stock, we agreed to dig for the <HI REND="italics">oro</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 17th, I arose at five o'clock, and dressing myself <HI REND="italics">a la California</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 20th of September, accompanied by a party of miners of various nationalities and colors, I started on a prospecting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MINERS AT WORK IN 1849.</P>
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149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:tour to the reported rich Indian diggings.  On our arrival at the encampment of the Indians, we were somewhat surprised at meeting only half a dozen squaws and papooses.  We inquired for the bucks, but could obtain no satisfactory answer to our interrogatories.  Being somewhat fatigued by a march of three hours over hills and through gulches and can&tilde;ons, exposed to the broiling rays of the sun, we placed our fire-arms against a tree, and sat down to rest our weary limbs and chat with the squaws.  We had been seated only a few moments, when the Indians commenced making their appearance from all points of the compass.  Every rock in the can&tilde;on seemed to send forth a red-skin.  We secured our fire-arms and again sat down.  The Indians were rather shy at first, but after a little persuasion seated themselves around us, and those who could speak Spanish entered into conversation with us.  After a few preliminary remarks, we informed them of the object of our visit, and asked if there was plenty of <HI REND="italics">oro</HI>
149.sgm: in the can&tilde;on.  They shrugged their shoulders and informed us that the can&tilde;on was <HI REND="italics">much a malo</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Midway between the Indian encampment and our own, we discovered a bar richer than the one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:we were working, and concluded to remove to it on the following day.  Accordingly, at an early hour next morning, we bundled up our tents and provisions, packed them on mules, and started for the new diggings, which we reached at noon.  The afternoon was spent in pitching our tents and arranging the provisions.  At daylight next morning I selected what I considered a good location, and commenced operations.  I labored hard two days in removing the boulders from my claim, but was amply rewarded for my labor.  On the third day I reached a crevice in a rock, some four feet below the surface of the ground, and in two hours succeeded in extracting therefrom forty-five dollars' worth of gold in nuggets of the value of from one to five dollars.  I did not report my good-luck to my companions, but toiled on, early and late, day after day, until I had extracted nearly four hundred dollars' worth of the precious metal from the claim.  I then abandoned it, and reported progress to my fellow-diggers, all of whom had been less fortunate than myself.  Some had not averaged one dollar per day; others had been more successful, yet none had met with the success they anticipated.  Those who had expected to realize a fortune in a few days or weeks were sadly disappointed.  I left San Francisco with the intention of remaining in the mines during the fall and winter, but I had not dug three weeks before I found my health and strength failing.  On the 10th of October, I had an attack of rheumatism which doubled me up like a rainbow and put a veto on any further attempts at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MINING SCENE, 1849.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 12th, I sold my provisions and mining implements by auction at ruinous rates, and packing my wardrobe, consisting of an extra flannel shirt, a pair of linsey-woolsey pants, a six-shooter and a bowie-knife, I engaged passage in a trader's cart, and, bidding my companions adieu, started for Stockton, where I arrived the following evening.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On my arrival in Stockton, I was advised by my friend Leland to place myself under the charge of a physician for a few weeks, or until I had fully recovered my health.  Accordingly, I visited the City Hospital, a large canvas tent, resembling very much a circus pavilion, and inquired the price of board with medical attendance.  The attending physician informed me that the charge was two ounces--$32--per day; but if I preferred being visited at my own quarters, it would be somewhat less.  After having learned that I was not overstocked with the "root of all evil," he very condescendingly informed me that he would charge me only $16 a visit, and the cost of the medicine prescribed.  I left him with the promise that I would employ him if I did not get better in a day or two.  On my way back to my lodgings, I recollected having purchased, before leaving Philadelphia, a bottle of opodeldoc, and I at once resolved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:upon testing its virtues before purchasing medicine at California prices.  I accordingly applied it freely to my swollen limbs, and on the following day I felt very much relieved.  I continued the application, and when the bottle was emptied of its contents, I was a well man.  I consider the twenty-five cents paid for that bottle of opodeldoc the most judicious investment I ever made.  Having recovered my health, I cast about for some employment whereby I might turn an honest penny.  During my sojourn in Stockton, I mixed freely with the returning and disgusted miners, from whom I learned that they were selling their mining implements at ruinously low prices.  An idea struck me one day, which I immediately acted upon, for fear that another might strike in the same place and cause an explosion.  The heaven-born idea that had penetrated my cranium was this: start in the mercantile line, purchase the tents and implements of the returning miners at low figures, and sell to the greenhorns <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm: to the mines at California prices!  I purchased a large tent in which to store my goods and commenced operations.  Fortune smiled on me, and I was happy.  But every rose has its thorn, and <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The best laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The first rain of the season dampened my ardor and disheartened me.  My bowels yearned for the flesh-pots of San Francisco, so, early in November, I bade farewell to Stockton, engaged passage on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO, WINTER OF 1849-'50.</P>
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149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>San Francisco, during my absence of two months, had become so changed that I scarcely recognized it.  Substantial frame buildings had superseded frail canvas tenements, and piers had been extended many hundred yards into the bay, at which vessels from the four quarters of the globe were discharging their cargoes.  I visited the gold-diggers' encampment, Happy Valley, but that too was so changed, that I could hardly recognize a familiar spot or countenance.  A three-story warehouse was being erected on the spot where I had pitched my tent two months previously.  The saw and hammer of the carpenter could be heard in every square, and the voice of the crier and auctioneer at the corner of nearly every street.  The <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:<P>As hotel accommodations were limited as well as expensive, I purchased for $100 a ship's galley, size four by five feet, which I located in Happy Valley and commenced housekeeping.  My furniture consisted of an empty flour-barrel and a nailkeg.  The former served for a table and the latter as a chair, minus a back.  My cooking utensils were as inexpensive as my furniture.  A second-hand frying-pan, a dilapidated coffee-pot, and a rheumatic jack-knife comprised the catalogue.  My bed consisted of two blankets and a soft block of wood for a pillow.  Unfortunately, I was, by actual measurement, eight inches longer than my shebang; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:therefore, when "I lay me down to sleep," I was compelled to lie bias, and I couldn't turn over without going out-of-doors.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Man wants but little here below,"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>but he wants that little long enough to turn over in.  With no disrespect to Happy Valley, there is one thing which, as a truthful historian, I am compelled, more in sorrow than in anger, to relate.  The flea, that festive and lively little "animile," was quite prevalent.  He annoyed me sorely, yea, prodigiously!  The sojourners in Happy Valley and surrounding sand-hills never required cupping or leeching, as both operations were performed by the fleas, <HI REND="italics">nolens volens</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Being the owner of a house, I commenced looking about for some employment whereby I could raise the needful to keep the pot boiling.  My first business venture was in the pickle line, and the following extract from my journal will illustrate the <HI REND="italics">modus operandi</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"Pickles are scarce and sell at fabulous prices.  The beach of Happy Valley for miles is lined with discarded pickle-jars and bottles, and I have conceived the happy idea of utilizing them.  I have gathered up, cleansed and stored around my shebang, several hundred bottles ready for use.  This afternoon, I boarded a vessel just arrived from Boston, and persuaded the Captain to sell me a barrel of salted cucumbers and half a barrel of cider-vinegar, to be delivered to-morrow morning."</P>
149.sgm:<P>After supper I wrapped myself in my blankets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Having abiding faith in the old aphorism, "change makes change," I concluded to abandon mercantile pursuits and try my luck at the newspaper business.  I resolved to commence at the lower round of the ladder, and gradually work my way upward.  Suiting the action to the thought, I at once applied to the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm:, a tri-weekly, printed on a foolscap sheet, then in its infancy, for permission to canvass for a carrier's route on their journal.  After a long interview, during which the project was discussed <HI REND="italics">pro</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">con</HI>
149.sgm:, I obtained the sole and exclusive right to canvass for subscribers, and serve the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Messrs. Falkner &amp; Leland, proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm:, were both Eastern men.  Falkner formerly published a paper in Norwich, Conn., and Leland was one of the proprietors of the Clinton Hotel, New York.  The first number of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm: was issued on the 25th of August, with Falkner <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:as editor, and Leland, business manager.  A few weeks subsequently, Charles Eames, of Washington, D.C., appointed by President Polk consul to the Hawaiian Islands, arrived in San Francisco, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm:, but was prevailed upon by Falkner &amp; Leland to forego his mission, locate in San Francisco, and assume editorial charge of their journal, at a salary of $500 per month.  As the election and inauguration of Zachary Taylor, as President of the United States, had rendered the recall of Mr. Eames a foregone conclusion, that gentleman considered discretion the better part of valor, and accepted the editorship of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Simultaneously with the engagement of Mr. Eames as editor-in-chief, a tall, lank, hirsute Yankee, of the name of Ames <HI REND="italics">alias</HI>
149.sgm: "Boston" <HI REND="italics">alias</HI>
149.sgm: "Big Ames," was engaged as local reporter.  A few weeks subsequently Mr. Ferdinand C. Ewer, a recent graduate of old Harvard, and a gentleman of fine literary attainments, was added to the staff of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I experienced little difficulty in getting up a paying list of subscribers for the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:.  Nearly every one on whom I called gladly subscribed for it, and paid me promptly at the end of each week.  I had scarcely become accustomed to my new vocation, when the situation of book-keeper was tendered to me by the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:, with a salary of $100 a week.  I sold my carrier's route for $200, my shebang in Happy Valley for $125, and accepted the situation, with the proffer of a sleeping-bunk in the office.  Soon after I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:installed in my new quarters, Mr. Leland sold his half-interest in the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: was the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
149.sgm: tri-weekly, and the <HI REND="italics">third</HI>
149.sgm: newspaper then published in California, its cotemporaries being the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
149.sgm:, published by Gilbert &amp; Kemble, in San Francisco, and the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm:, published by E. Gilbert &amp; Co., Sacramento City, and edited by Jesse Giles--both weekly sheets, and small patterns at that, the latter being foolscap size.  Printing-paper was very scarce in California, but the market was overstocked with unruled foolscap, which was substituted for the former.  The size of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm: was a foolscap sheet, and as enlargement was a matter of impossibility, supplementary sheets were added to accommodate advertisers.  The price of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>First State election--The winning candidates--"Fire! fire! fire!"--A million dollars' worth of property destroyed--"Big Ames's" report of the conflagration--An eccentric judge--Muddy streets--First vocal entertainment in San Francisco--Early theatricals--"Them literary fellers"--Terrence McVerdant--"A rallying song for the gold-diggers."</P>
149.sgm:<P>THE State Constitution, framed and signed by the delegates at Monterey, in October, was submitted to a vote of the people on November 13th.  State officers were also voted for at the same time; and the election passed off in an orderly manner.  Out of the two thousand votes polled in San Francisco only five were opposed to the Constitution, and in the whole country less than a thousand votes were cast against it, and upwards of twelve thousand for it.  The following State officers, U.S. Senators and Representatives were elected:</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Governor</HI>
149.sgm:, Peter H. Burnett; <HI REND="italics">Lieutenant-Governor</HI>
149.sgm:, John McDougal; <HI REND="italics">U.S. Senators</HI>
149.sgm:, John C. Fremont, Wm. M. Gwin; <HI REND="italics">Representatives in Congress</HI>
149.sgm:, George W. Wright, Edward Gilbert; <HI REND="italics">Secretary of State</HI>
149.sgm:, Wm. Van Voorhies; <HI REND="italics">Treasurer</HI>
149.sgm:, Richard Roman; <HI REND="italics">Comptroller</HI>
149.sgm:, J. S. Houston; <HI REND="italics">Attorney-General</HI>
149.sgm:, Edward J. C. Kewen; <HI REND="italics">Surveyor-General</HI>
149.sgm:, Charles J. Whiting; <HI REND="italics">Chief Justice</HI>
149.sgm:, S.C.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"OLD ADOBE" CUSTOM-HOUSE, 1849.</P>
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149.sgm:Hastings; <HI REND="italics">Associate Justices</HI>
149.sgm:, J. A. Lyon, Nathaniel Bennett; <HI REND="italics">State Senators</HI>
149.sgm:, Gabriel B. Post, Nathaniel Bennett; <HI REND="italics">Assembly</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Late in October a Democratic meeting, the first in California, was held in the <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:, in front of the "old <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
149.sgm:," at which the following officers were chosen:  <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:, Colonel John W. Geary,<ANCHOR ID="n15-1">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Vice-Presidents</HI>
149.sgm:, Dr. McMillan, Thomas J. Agnew, John McVickar, W. H. Jones, O. P. Sutton, Annis Merrill, E. V. Joyce and W. H. Jones; <HI REND="italics">Secretaries</HI>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1">Afterward Governor of Pennsylvania.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>Early on the morning of the 24th of December, San Francisco was aroused by the startling cry of " <HI REND="italics">fire! fire!</HI>
149.sgm: " and the citizens rushed pell-mell to the scene of conflagration.  The fire originated in Dennison's Exchange, adjoining the Parker House, situated on Kearney Street, opposite the <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:, and in a few hours property valued at more than a million dollars was destroyed.  The Parker House, one of the most imposing buildings in San Francisco, with its <HI REND="italics">faro</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
149.sgm: tables and other gambling paraphernalia, was totally destroyed, as was also the El Dorado, at the corner of Washington and Kearney Streets.  The blowing up of several buildings in Washington Street, near Montgomery, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:by order of Alcalde Geary, arrested the progress of the fire in that direction.  Nearly every building in the square bounded by Washington, Clay, Montgomery and Kearney Streets was destroyed.  The controlling spirit during the progress of the fire was David C. Broderick,<ANCHOR ID="n15-2">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm: a New York fireman, who worked like a Trojan, and whose stentorian voice, shrill as a trumpet, could be heard above the crashing of the falling buildings and the din of the excited crowd.  Before the ground in the burnt district had become cold, the <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-2">Subsequently U.S. Senator from California.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>That fire was a "big thing" for "big Ames," local editor of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:.  He wrote out a spread-eagle report as long as the Declaration of Independence, but when it appeared in print on the following morning, "curtailed of its fair proportions," cut down to less than a foolscap column, he was completely demoralized.  He lost his temper and swore like a trooper.  All efforts to soothe his wounded feelings only added fresh fuel to the pent-up volcano raging within his breast, which erupted iron-clad oaths at every breath.  He said "the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>During the fall the business of the Alcalde had increased to such a degree, that the establishment of another court, with civil jurisdiction only, and in cases of sums exceeding $100, was authorized by the Governor, and William B. Almond was appointed judge.  His court was called the "Court of First Instance."  Almond was no paper-shell, but a decidedly hard nut to crack, as the legal fraternity who practiced in his court soon learned.  He was a man of few words, and, to economize time, generally decided a case on the testimony of the first witness, without listening to the arguments of counsel.  During the trial of a trivial case before his Honor, the counsel for the plaintiff called his opponent an oscillating Tarquin.  The judge, in a stentorian voice, roared out: "A what?"</P>
149.sgm:<P>"An oscillating Tarquin, your Honor."</P>
149.sgm:<P>The judge removed his feet from the table in front of him, leaned forward, and pointing his index finger toward the offending disciple of Blackstone, ejaculated, in a voice of thunder: "If this honorable court knows herself, and she thinks she do, that remark is an insult to this honorable court, and you are fined two ounces, and stand committed till you down with the dust."</P>
149.sgm:<P>"But, your Honor," replied the trembling pettifogger.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"Silence, sir; this honorable court won't tolerate <HI REND="italics">cussing</HI>
149.sgm:<P>It is needless to add that the fine was paid, and the trial proceeded.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"Old Tarquin," as the judge was afterward called, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The rainy season was now at its height--that ever-to-be-remembered fall and winter of 1849--'50--and the streets were simply awful!  Awful is a mild term, but I can't just now call to mind a more expressive adjective.  They ran rivers of mud, and swallowed up every living thing that attempted to cross them.  Water-proof suits and cavalry or long boots were in great demand, and commanded Munchausenistic prices.  It was no uncommon occurrence to see at the same time a mule stalled in the middle of the street with only his head above the mud, and an unfortunate pedestrian who had slipped off the plank sidewalk, being fished out by a companion.  Some good Samaritan, with a heart overflowing with the milk of human kindness, erected at the corner of Clay and Kearney Streets the following warning to the unwary:</P>
149.sgm:<P>THIS STREET IS IMPASSABLE,</P>
149.sgm:<P>NOT EVEN JACKASSABLE!</P>
149.sgm:<P>On January 8th, the anniversary of the Battle of New Orleans, another election, the second in San Francisco, was held for members of the Legislature, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OLD SCHOOL-HOUSE, OPPOSITE THE PLAZA.</P>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MUDDY STREETS, WINTER OF 1849-'50.</P>
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149.sgm:Alcalde and <HI REND="italics">Ayuntamiento</HI>
149.sgm:.  Despite the rain, which poured down in torrents during the day, the unterrified voters turned out in full strength, and elected the following gentlemen to the offices named:  <HI REND="italics">State Senator</HI>
149.sgm:, David C. Broderick; <HI REND="italics">Member of Assembly</HI>
149.sgm:, Samuel J. Clarke; <HI REND="italics">First Alcalde</HI>
149.sgm:, John W. Geary; <HI REND="italics">Second Alcalde</HI>
149.sgm:, Frank Turk; <HI REND="italics">Ayuntamiento</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Man is naturally a social being; he likes rational enjoyment, and is fond of amusement.  The first vocal entertainment in San Francisco was given by Mr. Stephen C. Massett, in the school-house, fronting the <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:, on the evening of June 22d, 1849.  It was a one-man entertainment--Mr. Massett being the only performer.  Front seats were reserved for the ladies, of whom there were four present.  Tickets were $3 each, and the house was crowded to overflowing.  During the year 1849, and the early part of 1850, circuses were established in San Francisco, first by Rowe and soon after by Foley.  The following were the prices of admission: Pit, $3; box, $5; private boxes, $50.  The first theatrical performance in San Francisco was given in January, 1850, by a company under the management of Atwater &amp; Madison, in the second story of Washington Hall, on Washington Street, opposite the <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:.  The plays produced were <HI REND="italics">Charles II</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">The Wife</HI>
149.sgm:.  Subsequently, Mr. Rowe added a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>About this time the editor of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The following epistle, however, found its way into print.  It was written by a disconsolate son of the Emerald Isle to his sweetheart in New York, and shows the status of matters viewed from a Hibernian stand-point:</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAN FRANSISKY, Dec. 1, 1849.</P>
149.sgm:<P>BIDDY DARLIN':--I've been to the mines, bad luck to 'em.  For sivin long weeks, Biddy, acushla, I sarched the bowels of <HI REND="italics">terry firmer</HI>
149.sgm: for goold, and all I got was the dissinterry, by rasin of workin' on an empty stomick.  The divil a thing to ate for brekfist, and the same for dinner, and ditto repated for supper; an' all the time throwing up mud an' wather, is mighty wakening for the insides.  Pitaytees was a $1 a pound, and no mate to be had but gristly bares, which is tough customers.  In cowld wether the craythurs--I mane gristly bares--comes down from the mountains, with their arums extended, as if they wantid to bid ye welkim; but the moment they're fornenst ye, they grab ye, the craythers, and squaze the breth o' life out ov ye.  Some ov the byes that wint out in the same ship wid me found goold galore, but the divil as much as the vally of a weddin'-ring, Biddy, did Terry git for his thrubble.  The black luck was on me, darlin', for lavin ye, a dacent, modest colleen, as ye are, to come to a kunthry where the wimin are the color of a dirthy copper-kittle, and have no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>I got back from the mines a fortnit ago, and a most unfortnit go it was for me that I ever wint there.  Here I am in San Fransisky knockin' about without a rap.  What's to become of me, Biddy, mavourneen, the saints only know.  Only to think that I should lave the comfortable berth I had swaping the strates of New Yorick, to come to this haythen kunthry, where the strate-claning is done by the burds, and drinkin', gamblin', speckalatin' an' shooiside is the only fashionable amusements.  Ye'll see it statid in the papers, Biddy, that the diggers are findin' goold in "quartz."  Biddy, it's a lie!--a base, disateful, onchristian lie!  I niver seen a lump of goold yit that would fill a gill measure.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Couldn't ye raise a subskripshun, Biddy, among the strate-swapers, to pay me passidge back.  If I was only back in New Yorick, dead or alive, I'd niver lave it while grass grows and wather runs.      Your loving,</P>
149.sgm:<P>TERRENCE McVERDANT.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The following poem, the earliest written and published in California, appeared in the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We cannot refrain from publishing the following vigorous stanzas, trusting that they will impart as much pleasure in the perusal, to our readers, as they have to ourselves.  We should be happy to give the author's name, as we deem them to possess no ordinary merit:</P>
149.sgm:<P>A RALLYING SONG FOR THE GOLD-DIGGERS.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>To the mines! to the mines! away to the mines!<LB>Where the virgin gold in the crevice shines!<LB>Where the shale and the slate and the quartz enfold,<LB>In their stony arms, the glittering gold.</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><P><HI REND="blockindent">'Tis in vain that ye seek any longer to hide<LB>Your treasures of gold in your rivers so wide,<LB>In your gulches so deep, or your wild can&tilde;on home,<LB>For the Anglo-American race is come.<LB>And the noise that ye hear is the sound of the spade,<LB>The pick, the bar, and the bright shining blade,<LB>Of the knife and the shovel, the cradle and pan,<LB>Brave adjuncts of toil to the laboring man!<LB>Far up in the mountain, all rugged and steep,<LB>Far down in the can&tilde;on, all foaming and deep,<LB>In the bars of the rivers--the small mountain plains,<LB>Lies the wealth that ye seek for, in numberless grains.<LB>Turn the stream from its bed--search the bottom with care,<LB>The largest, the richest, the finest is there;<LB>Dig deep in the gulches, nor stop till the stone<LB>Reveals thee its treasure, or tells thee there's none.<LB>Nor be thou disheartened, dismayed nor cast down,<LB>If success should decline thy first efforts to crown;<LB>Go ahead!  Go ahead!  Since creation began,<LB>"No wealth without toil," is the record to man.<LB>Old Mammon the sound of your coming hears,<LB>And, aroused from his sleep of a million years,<LB>He gazes around him, in wild surprise,<LB>As Mexican rule from the region flies.<LB>Now hie thee, old Mammon, far over the sea!<LB>Thy long-hidden treasure all scattered shall be;<LB>For the hands that now grasp it, free, ardent and bold,<LB>Will give to the world its lost millions of gold.<LB>Then away to the mines! away to the mines!<LB>Where the virgin gold in the crevice shines;<LB>Where the shale and the slate and the quartz enfold,<LB>In their stony arms, the glittering gold!</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A. R. K.</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, <HI REND="italics">March</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Locate in Sacramento City--The <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>DURING the winter of 1849-'50, I made the acquaintance of Mr. George Kenyon Fitch, a practical printer, from New Orleans, who arrived in San Francisco <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm: Isthmus of Panama, in the month of September.  Before leaving New Orleans, Mr. Fitch shipped, in a sailing vessel around Cape Horn, two presses, (a hand and card press,) types, ink, and some thirty reams of printing-paper, with the view of publishing a newspaper in California, on the arrival of the material.  The invoice price of the paper, types and presses was $950, but when they arrived in San Francisco, in the early part of March, 1850, they were valued at $15,000, and could have been sold for that amount in coin, as printing material was very scarce, and "sorts" were worth their weight in gold!  Mr. Fitch proposed to five of the <HI REND="italics">attache&acute;s</HI>
149.sgm: of the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: --F. C. Ewer, H. S. Warren, J. M. Julian, Theodore Russell and S. C. Upham--the formation of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>276</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>We arrived in Sacramento immediately after the great flood, which had inundated the town, and it was in a sadly demoralized condition.  We rented the second floor of a frame building, on Second Street, between J and K Streets, and on the <HI REND="italics">first day of April</HI>
149.sgm:, 1850, the initial number of the tri-weekly <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Sacramento City being in its infancy, in a chrysalis or state of transition, just emerging from its shell, hotel accommodations were limited.  We lodged in the office, and obtained our meals at different places.  I paid $16 a week for two meals a day at a French restaurant, on the levee, and slept on the soft side of the office counter, with a roll of paper for a pillow.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>The object and aims of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The opening of a new paper is like the planting of a tree.  The hopes of many hearts cluster around it.  The anxious mind labors over it by night and by day, and the watchful eye guards it, as, in its youth, it struggles into life.  Encouraging words and the helping hand of its friends fall like raindrops around it, and the approving smile of the public steals in, like the sunshine, to open its buds.  In the covert of its leaves all pure principles and high aims should find a home; and from it invisible voices should rise forth from the nests of those pure principles, to delight, to warm and to instruct the world.  Its shade should be free to all.  It should reach forth its branches to shield the innocent from the pelting storm; and, conscious of its fearless might, men should come to it for protection, and find refreshment in its shade.  It should be nurtured by no unhealthy influences; it should be propped up by no interested motives; its growth should be free and unrestrained.  Perchance it may wither in its youth, and no longer be the home of healthy influences.  Perhaps it may be stricken in its manhood by the storm of adversity.  Perchance it may flourish through the years and grow green; but, of all dangers that assail it from without, the insidious influence of those who may cluster around it for their own private ends is the most withering, and the most to be feared.  A newspaper should never be <HI REND="italics">used</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Such is our ideal; and with such an ideal before us, do we present ourselves before the public of Sacramento City.  In politics, the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: will sedulously maintain an independent course, endeavoring to do justice to both parties.  In religion, it will be neutral.  We shall earnestly advocate such measures as we deem to be for the best interests of our city.  We shall urge the introduction of every class of improvements--shoot error as it flies, and watch for every injury that is stealing in upon us.  We shall endeavor to present to our readers in Sacramento City and the mines, the news from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>A part of our columns will be devoted to literature, to criticism, poetry, and anything of the <HI REND="italics">belles-lettres</HI>
149.sgm: cast.  We have procured not only correspondents who will keep us advised of the latest intelligence from the mines, but several from San Francisco and the States, whose papers will be of a lighter and more literary character.  We shall endeavor to give the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: an extensive circulation in the <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Such are our aims, and to attain them we shall use our highest endeavors; trusting, as we embark in the enterprise, that our well-meant efforts will meet with support from the known liberality of the inhabitants of the city of our adoption.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The day on which the first number of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: was published, in addition to being " <HI REND="italics">All-fools' Day</HI>
149.sgm:," was election day in Sacramento.  It was the first election under the City Charter, and there were three tickets in the field.  Canvassing had been going on for several weeks previously, both in the city and throughout the county, and an immense number of ballots and handbills had been circulated.  The polls remained open until late in the evening, and there were lively <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:times around the ballot-boxes.  There was no rioting, but a great deal of superfluous gas was ventilated and considerable whisky drunk.  The following political advertisements, published in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>--In pursuance of a public call, a meeting of Democratic citizens was convened at the City Hotel, in Sacramento City, on Monday evening, March 25, 1850, for the purpose of organizing the Democratic Party, and nominating a Ticket for City and County Officers, to be supported at the ensuing election.  John S. Fowler was called to the chair; J. P. Rogers, H. A. Shelden and Lorin Pickering were chosen Vice Presidents, and John K. Brown and Orlando McKnight appointed Secretaries.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On motion, a committee of three was appointed by the chair to draft resolutions; whereupon L. Pickering, James McClatchy, and J. K. Brown, were appointed such committee:<LB>     On motion, a committee of fifteen was appointed by the chair to report a Ticket to be supported at the coming election for City and County Officers, and the following gentlemen constituted such committee:<LB>     Wm. C. Kibbe, John Ayres, Alex. Boyd, C. H. Cummings, James McClatchy, James Orchard, D. B. Milne, --McCalla, --Noulton, J. Sherwood, J. F. Thorp, Levi Hermance, J. R. Riggs, Wm. S. Jackson, J. Deming.<LB>     The committee appointed to report a Ticket, having retired, reported the following--<LB>CITY TICKET.<LB>For Mayor--Thomas J. Henley.<LB>For City Recorder--Charles A. Johnson.<LB>For Marshal--N. C. Cunningham.<LB>For City Attorney--A. C. Monson.<LB>For Assessor--B. F. Moore.<LB>For Treasurer--Barton Lee.<LB>For City Council--John S. Fowler. J. Sherwood, R. W. Vansickle, Wm. Baker, Wm. C. Kibbe, J. Hardenbergh, Orlando McKnight, E. L. Brown, P. M. Dorsey.<LB>COUNTY TICKET.<LB>For Clerk Supreme Court--E. H. Tharp.<LB>District Attorney--John K. Brown.<LB>County Judge--Ansel J. McCall.<LB>County Clerk--Leander Warren.<LB>County Attorney--Lewis Aldrich.<LB>County Surveyor--J. H. Dickerson.<LB>Sheriff--<LB>County Recorder--Lewis A. Birdsall.<LB>Coroner--P. F. Ewer.<LB>County Treasurer--Eugene F. Gillespie.<LB>County Assessor--L. P. Stafford.<LB>     The Committee on Resolutions reported the following preamble and resolutions:  <HI REND="italics">Whereas</HI>
149.sgm:, a Government has been organized; a Constitution adopted; and a new State already, or about to be admitted into the Union:  and, whereas, through the proper authorities a City Charter has been obtained for this city, it becomes all true Republicans to exert themselves in procuring wholesome laws, and the success of sound democratic principles--the only principles that can secure a proper administration of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:government and equal rights and privileges among the governed--therefore, be it <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the organization of government creates a necessity for the organization of party.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the republican principles laid down by Jefferson, the Father of Democracy, and the measures that have characterized all democratic administrations, meet with our hearty approval and unqualified support.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That in Municipal, as well as State and National Governments, the laws should be so framed as to secure equal rights to all, and special privileges to none.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That honest and honorable competition is the life of trade, and that we are opposed to fostering one branch of business at the expense of another or building up one enterprise by taxing another: but that we stand on the broad platform of "Free Trade and Sailors' Rights." <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the practice heretofore adopted, of taxing business instead of property, <HI REND="italics">and which is still authorized by section 5th of the City Charter</HI>
149.sgm:, is neither wise nor democratic, but that all revenue necessary to defray the expenses of government should be collected by a direct tax, levied upon property.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That a fair and liberal compensation <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
149.sgm:, be awarded to office holders for their services, and <HI REND="italics">not such emoluments as may induce all to become office seekers</HI>
149.sgm:.<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That as it is <HI REND="italics">never too soon</HI>
149.sgm: to advocate Democratic principles, so it is <HI REND="italics">never too early</HI>
149.sgm: to exercise our united efforts in securing their triumph.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That we now launch the good old ship of Democracy--spread her canvas to the breeze--nail her colors to the mast--and pledge our united efforts to secure the triumphant election of the regularly nominated Democratic candidates.<LB>     On motion, Levi Hermance, Barton Lee, E. W. Crowell, S. W. Gregg, and J. F. Thorp, were constituted a Town Committee.<LB>     On motion, The Town Committee were instructed to confer with Democrats throughout the county for the purpose of holding a County Convention and organizing the Democratic party throughout the county.<LB>     On motion, the meeting adjourned.<LB>JOHN S. FOWLER, Chairman.<LB>J. K. BROWN,<HSEP>Secretaries.<LB>ORLANDO McKNIGHT,<HSEP>1t<LB>     CITIZENS' MEETING.--At a spontaneous assemblage of the citizens of Sacramento City, held at the City Hotel, on Monday evening the 25th inst., immediately upon the adjournment of the self-constituted Democratic meeting, whereat an attempt was made to organize a Democratic party, Demas Strong was called to the chair, and Jos. W. Winans appointed Secretary.<LB>     After some able and eloquent addresses, in explanation of the object of the meeting, the following resolutions were unanimously adopted:  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That a committee of five be appointed to draft a series of resolutions, for presentation at a subsequent public meeting of the citizens of Sacramento City, of the time and place of holding which, public notice shall be given by the chairman.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That Messrs. Nickerson, Nolan, Bullock, Winans, and Warbass, constitute such committee.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the Chair be added to such committee as the chairman thereof.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That in the view of this meeting, any attempt at this time to effect a political organization, on party grounds, is TOTALLY UNCALLED FOR, and that the meeting held this evening, prior to the present meeting, <HI REND="italics">did not</HI>
149.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">does not</HI>
149.sgm: represent the Democratic Party of Sacramento City.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the Democratic Republicans here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:assembled, protest against the very partial proceedings of said meeting, as being contrary to Democratic principles and usages, and recommend the electors of Sacramento City to give their franchise to such men as they may deem most suitable to fill the various offices in their gift.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the proceedings of this meeting be published in the "Placer Times" and "Sacramento Transcript."<LB>     On motion, the meeting was thereupon adjourned.<LB>DEMAS STRONG, Chairman.<LB>JOS. W. WINANS, Secretary.<HSEP>1t<LB>     RANCHEROS, TO THE RESCUE!--The enemy is in the field--our bills have been mutilated, and in some instances destroyed; but let not your "angry passions rise" in consequence of the indignity.  Imitate as far as in your power lies the example of your leader.  Keep cool, work hard and vote early.  Remember that abuse and curses, like young chickens, "will come home to roost."  When once the votes are in the ballot boxes, no appeal can be taken.<HSEP>HOMBRES.<LB>RANCHO TICKET.<LB>THROUGH BY DAYLIGHT!<LB>For Mayor--JOSEPH GRANT.<LB>For City Recorder--B. F. Washington.<LB>For Councilmen--T. McDowell, C. A. Tweed, Z. Hubbard, Charles O. Brewster, E. J. Feeney, D. Strong, Dr. J. F. Morse, Dr. James S. Martin, Charles H. Miller.<LB>For City Marshal--M. D. Eyre.<LB>For City Attorney--A. C. Monson.<LB>For City Assessor--Wm. F. Prettyman.<LB>For City Treasurer--Barton Lee.<LB>RANCHO TICKET--FOR THE COUNTY.<LB>"<HI REND="italics">All's well that ends well</HI>
149.sgm:."<LB>For Clerk of the Supreme Court--E. H. Tharp.<LB>For District Attorney--William C. Wallace.<LB>For County Judge--Edward J. Willis.<LB>For County Clerk--Presley Dunlap.<LB>For County Attorney--John H. McKune.<LB>For County Surveyor--Andrew J. Binney.<LB>For Sheriff--Joseph D. Magee, (better known as Johnny Rancho.)<LB>For County Recorder--Thomas A. Warbass.<LB>For County Assessor--D. W. Thorpe.<LB>For Coroner--Henry F. Beadle.<LB>For County Treasurer--Wm. Glaskin.<HSEP>1t<LB>     Capt. W. G. MARCY authorizes us to announce the withdrawal of his name as candidate for the office of Clerk of the Supreme Court, in favor of E. H. THARP, Esq., the present Clerk.<LB>     TO THE PUBLIC.  I am authorized to say to the friends of EUGENE F. GILLESPIE, that his business makes it impossible for him to run for or accept any office; at the same time he is grateful to his friends for their confidence manifested by the nomination of him for Councilman and County Treasurer.<LB>A. M. WINN.<LB>Sacramento City, March 29, 1850.<HSEP>ap 1 1t</P>
149.sgm: <P>The whole number of votes polled for Mayor was 2,493, and Hardin Bigelow, the peoples' candidate, had a majority over all others of 323.  The following is a list of the city and county officers elected, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Mayor</HI>
149.sgm:, Hardin Bigelow,<HSEP>1,521</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">City Recorder</HI>
149.sgm:, B. F. Washington,<HSEP>885</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Marshal</HI>
149.sgm:, N. C. Cunningham,<HSEP>1,323</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Attorney</HI>
149.sgm:, J. Neely Johnson,<HSEP>1,697</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Assessor</HI>
149.sgm:, J. W. Woodland,<HSEP>792</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Treasurer</HI>
149.sgm:, Barton Lee,<HSEP>2,310</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Council</HI>
149.sgm:, C. A. Tweed,<HSEP>1,629</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  "  V. Spalding,<HSEP>1,621</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  "  Demas Strong,<HSEP>1,420</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  "  T. McDowell,<HSEP>1,462</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  "  J. McKenzie,<HSEP>1,182</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  "  C. H. Miller,<HSEP>887</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  "  J. R. Hardenbergh,<HSEP>862</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  "  Jesse Moore,<HSEP>869</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  "  A. P. Petit,<HSEP>804</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">County Treasurer</HI>
149.sgm:, William Glaskin,<HSEP>1,104</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">District Attorney</HI>
149.sgm:, Wm. C. Wallace,<HSEP>2,011</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">County</HI>
149.sgm: "  J. H. McKune,<HSEP>2,021</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Judge</HI>
149.sgm:, E. J. Willis,<HSEP>1,818</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Clerk</HI>
149.sgm:, Presley Dunlap,<HSEP>1,567</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Recorder</HI>
149.sgm:, L. A. Birdsall,<HSEP>714</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Sheriff</HI>
149.sgm:, J. McKinney,<HSEP>619</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Surveyor</HI>
149.sgm:, J. G. Cleal,<HSEP>1,152</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Assessor</HI>
149.sgm:, D. W. Thorp,<HSEP>1,224</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Coroner</HI>
149.sgm:, P. F. Ewer,<HSEP>579</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Clerk Supreme Court</HI>
149.sgm:, E. H. Tharp,<HSEP>1,313</P>
149.sgm:<P>A meeting of the Council elect was held at the Court-house, on the morning of the 4th of April, and, on motion of Jesse Moore, C. A. Tweed was called to the chair, as President <HI REND="italics">pro tem</HI>
149.sgm:., and on motion of Volney Spaulding, Chas. H. Miller was requested to act as Secretary <HI REND="italics">pro tem</HI>
149.sgm:.  On motion of Demas Strong, the members of the Council <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:proceeded to the election of President of that body.  Mr. Demas Strong having received a majority of the votes was declared duly elected President of the Council, and, after being conducted to the chair by a committee, returned thanks for the honor conferred on him in a brief but appropriate address.  A committee was also appointed to wait upon the Hon. Hardin Bigelow, Mayor-elect, and inform him that the Council was duly organized, and ready to receive any communication he might think proper to make.  The Mayor appeared before the Council and delivered a short and pertinent address.  The Council then adjourned to meet on the following day at ten o'clock, A.M.  The Council met the next day pursuant to adjournment, and a message from his Honor, the Mayor, was read, accepted and referred to a select committee.  The regular meetings of the board were ordered to be held on Tuesday evening of each week, at seven o'clock, at the Court-house; and the board then adjourned.  The following is the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
149.sgm: message of the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
149.sgm:<P>TO THE HONORABLE THE PRESIDENT AND COUNCIL OF SACRAMENTO CITY:</P>
149.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN:--In compliance with a duty imposed upon me by our City Charter, I respectfully submit the following for your consideration.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The first great and paramount object to be accomplished the present year, and one which involves the deepest interest of the citizens of Sacramento City, is the immediate construction of a levee, to protect permanently the city from future inundation by water.  By the 7th section of the Charter, the city is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>I, therefore, respectfully recommend the immediate passage of an order in Council directing an election at an early date to raise the necessary revenue for the completion of the work.  The estimated amount of material required for the entire work, ascertained by the late survey of the City Engineer, is about 160,000 cubic yards, and the estimated cost $250,000.  This sum, I believe, will exceed the actual cost of the work, but it is far safer to raise more than is required than not enough.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I would further recommend that a cheap railway track be laid along the levee or bank of the river, and the material brought from more distant points where it can be obtained of a better quality and at a cheaper rate.  Such a track along the levee, of not over two miles in length, will not interfere with the business on the levee, and will afford the most ready and cheap conveyance of material to fill up the low places in the city.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I would recommend also that the present banks of the river be not disturbed, as they are bold and easy of access, and form a far more permanent barrier to the action of the water than the finances of the city will allow to be made the present year without rendering taxation at once onerous and oppressive.  The grading and paving of the levee is a work that can be accomplished at a later period, when our population and taxable property shall have greatly increased, and as the necessity may arise.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Few, if any, of the commercial points along the margins of our great and navigable rivers present less obstacles to the complete success of a city than that of Sacramento, occupying, as it does, the most elevated position upon the banks of the Sacramento River above Suisun Bay, being at the immediate head of ship-navigation, and controlling nearly three-fourths of all the gold region of California--with no evident marks of periodical inundation, but subject only to those occasional and violent convulsions of water that occur in all countries, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The three small lakes that will be included within the limits of the levee are of the utmost importance to the city, as they form natural depositories for the surplus water that may accumulate within the city limits during the winter or rainy season, or that may find its way through any porous strata during the high water.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The whole limit of the present corporation should be included within the levee, for there cannot be a doubt but the whole area will soon be covered with buildings, in view of the commanding position of Sacramento, and its relation to a constantly-increasing mining region, capable of sustaining a population of five millions by its mining and agricultural resources.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I would recommend that the fund raised for this object be raised as a separate and distinct fund from the other expenses of the city.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I would further recommend the establishment of such regulations upon the present levee as will best promote the interest of the business community and yield the greatest revenue to the city.  The regulations as adopted upon the levee in the different municipalities of New Orleans, would, I think, be very applicable to this city.  It will be necessary to have some wharf-ships, anchored at convenient places, for steamboat and passenger landings, under suitable rates of wharfage.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The practice of keeping powder and loaded guns in stores <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>I would, therefore, recommend the licensing of certain establishments, in safe locations, for the sale of powder, and the restraining of others.</P>
149.sgm:<P>And I especially recommend liberal appropriations for the establishment of fire companies; and that every aid and encouragement consistent be given said companies, as the only security to property in a city without insurance is in a well-organized fire department.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I would further recommend to the early attention of the Council the adoption of immediate measures for the removal of the deposit of animal matter and other nuisances within the limits of the city proper, and that a sum of $5,000 be loaned for this and other purposes so essential to the health and credit of the city.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The necessity will arise in due time, or as soon as the finances of the city will permit, for the erection of a City Hospital, to be supported by the city.  Such institutions are the just pride of Americans in all our cities.  Any regulations which may now be in existence for the care of the poor, should receive liberal support from the city.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The necessity for establishing a City Prison will soon arise, unless one should be established by the county which will answer both purposes.  One can be obtained at very small expense, as a foreign vessel can be purchased below very cheap, which the Collector will permit to come up to this place for that purpose.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In regard to the various offices within your gift, I would recommend the appointment of honest and capable men, and hold them to the strictest accountabilities, and that the most rigid economy be practiced in all the departments of the city government.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I would also recommend that just and uniform assessments <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>I am unable to ascertain the exact liabilities of the city; but, from the best information I am able to obtain, they will amount to $60,000, and no accruing revenue whatever.  This sum, together with the current expenses of the year, cannot be less than one hundred and sixty thousand (160,000) dollars.  All just liabilities of the city should, by all means, be paid, and at as early a date as the city finances will allow.  I have no doubt that the sum authorized by the Charter, with such incidental revenue as can be created, will be ample and sufficient for the current expenses of the year and the payment of present liabilities.  The only sum necessary to be raised by a vote of the people will be for the levee.</P>
149.sgm:<P>It will require much patriotism and forbearance on the part of the people to meet the accruing wants of the city the coming year.  I believe, however, the sum can be raised so as not to be oppressive.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I would especially recommend to the Council that every aid, consistent with their authority and the finances of the city, be given to public schools.</P>
149.sgm:<P>There are other very necessary and important improvements to be made in the city, such as the grubbing and grading of the streets, the building of bridges and sidewalks, and the erection of a market-house; all of which will claim your attention in due time; but our present embarrassments and limited authority for raising money admonish us not to undertake too much.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>I believe, however, that a just, energetic and economical course on our part, which will command the confidence and respect of the people, will insure a sufficient revenue for all practical and beneficial purposes.</P>
149.sgm:<P>HARDIN BIGELOW,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Mayor of the City</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO CITY, April 6th, 1850.</P></DIV>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>First conflagration in Sacramento City--Amount of property destroyed--Collation given to the fire department by Mayor Bigelow--Henri Herz, the French composer and pianist--His concerts in Sacramento City--First negro minstrel performance in Sacramento--Rowe's Olympic Circus--Grand soiree--Rival politicians--First meeting of the I. O. of O. F. in Sacramento City--The Masons and Odd Fellows establish a hospital--Sutter Lodge of Ancient York Masons--Private hospitals--First public marriage in Sacramento--The <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm:<P>AT one o'clock, on the morning of the 4th of April, the citizens of Sacramento City were aroused from their slumbers by the appalling cry of "fire!"  The fire commenced in the store of Messrs.  Hoope &amp; L'Amoreux, and spread rapidly north and south.  The buildings consumed fronted on the levee, between J and K Streets.  The El Dorado, adjoining the store of Hoope &amp; L'Amoreux on the north, soon caught and was enveloped in a sheet of flame.  At the same time, the next store to the south, in which was the Express Office of Brown &amp; Knowlton, caught and was speedily consumed.  The wind was blowing from the north at the time, and Fowler &amp; Co.'s store next became a prey to the conflagration.  The fire also spread in a northerly direction from the El Dorado to the general merchandise store of Bailey, Morrison &amp; Co.; nor was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The loss sustained by Thomas Bannister was $2,000; Bailey, Morrison &amp; Co., $5,000; El Dorado, owned by Geo. H. Pettybone, $14,000; James Hyslop, $3,000; Hoope &amp; L'Amoreux, $20,000, together with the loss of books and papers; Mr. Yates Ferguson had also in this store $2,000 worth of goods and $1,000 in gold-dust; the books, drugs and instruments of Dr. Chas. Burrell burned were valued at $1,000; stock of provisions in Jackson &amp; Adams's canvas house, $2,000; Messrs. Fowler &amp; Co., $10,000; Frank Green, $600.  A large amount of property was saved by Mr. Demas Strong, aided by the fire department.  Both the engine and hook and ladder company were upon the field early and worked manfully.  The hook and ladder company did good service in hauling away buildings that must have otherwise been the cause of spreading the conflagration, and the engine company spared no pains or labor to make their engine as effective as possible.  There were several explosions of powder during the fire.  A loaded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>After the fire, the members of the fire department were invited, with their friends, by Mayor Bigelow, to repair to the City Hotel, where a collation was spread for them on the long table, which reached from one end of the dining-room to the other.  After having fortified the inner man, toasts were offered and brief speeches made by Messrs. Bigelow, Strong, Fowler, McNulty, Bailey and others, and the company adjourned in much better spirits than when fighting the fire.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On the day of the fire, before the ashes were cold on the site of the General Jackson House, Frank Green cleaned away the rubbish and erected a frame 22 by 23 feet, which he covered with canvas, and before night had his bar fully supplied with liquors, which he dispensed to the thirsty crowd at 50 cents a drink!</P>
149.sgm:<P>Henri Herz, the celebrated composer and pianist, who arrived in San Francisco on the 1st of April, gave the first of a series of three concerts in Sacramento City, on the evening of the 16th of the same month, at the New Hall, corner of M and Front Streets.  The following announcement of the affair appeared in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">THE Composer and Pianist, H. HERZ will give his first Grand Concert, vocal and instrumental, at the New Hall, corner of M and Front street, on</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">THIS EVENING, April 16,<LB>On which occasion Henri Herz will play several of his most celebrated pieces, and conclude the Concert with an extemporaneous performance on several American, French, Italian and German popular songs.</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Mr. REED will sing several of his favorite ballads.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Mr. S. BROWN will perform two solos on the Cornet-a-Piston.</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">G. PETINOS will preside at the Piano Forte.</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Mr. HERZ, at the earnest solicitation of many of our citizens, has agreed to give three concerts in Sacramento City, previous to his departure by the next steamer.</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">For further particulars, see small bills.</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Tickets for the course, (three concerts,) $10; single tickets, $4 each;--to be procured at the bars of the Sutter and City Hotels; at the office of the "Transcript," and at the door.</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Doors open at 7--concert to commence at 8 o'clock.<LB>ap16-1t</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The concert came off on the evening announced, but owing to the absence of Mr. Brown, who was engaged to perform two solos on the cornet-a-piston, the programme was somewhat curtailed.  The piano used on the occasion, the only one in the city, contained only six octaves, which somewhat cramped the genius of the great master, but he gave an admirable entertainment, nevertheless, and the audience was delighted.  As tickets of admission were $4 each, and no one was admitted without a "biled shirt," the audience was not large, but very <HI REND="italics">select</HI>
149.sgm:.  At the conclusion of the concert, Mr. Herz and several of the audience repaired, by invitation, to the cottage of Mr. P. B. Cornwall, where they "tripped the light fantastic toe" until a late hour.  Mr. Cornwall, during a residence of eighteen months in California, had amassed a fortune of half a million dollars, and was on the eve of his departure for the States.  During the evening, Mr. Cornwall presented to Mr. Herz a magnificent gold watch-chain, composed entirely of specimens artistically linked together.  At the remaining two concerts, Mr. Herz was assisted by Mr. S. C. Massett, who was announced on the programme as follows: "The celebrated vocalist, S. C. Massett, will sing several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>I will here state, that the first regular theatrical entertainment in California was given in Sacramento City, on October 18th, 1849, at the <HI REND="italics">Eagle Theatre</HI>
149.sgm:, on Front Street, between I and J Streets, by the following company: Messrs. J. B. Atwater, J. H. McCabe, T. Fairchild, Chas. B. Price, H. F. Daley, Henry Ray, A. W. Wright, J. Haines and Mrs. Ray.  The <HI REND="italics">Eagle Theatre</HI>
149.sgm:, a frail structure, closed never to open again on the 4th of January, 1850, and was succeeded by the <HI REND="italics">Tehama Theatre</HI>
149.sgm:, under the management of Mrs. J. C. Kirby, an accomplished and talented actress, and widow of "wake me up when Kirby dies" Kirby.  Attached to the <HI REND="italics">Tehama</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the 23d of April, 1850, " <HI REND="italics">Donnelly's Ethiopian Serenders</HI>
149.sgm: " gave their first entertainment at the New Hall, corner of Front and M Streets, being the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
149.sgm: exhibition of Ethiopian Minstrelsy given in Sacramento City.  The price of admission was $2, and the house was crowded.  The following announcement was published in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <p>DONNELLY'S<LB><HI REND="bold">Ethiopian Serenaders.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>MESSRS. DONNELLY, (formerly of Christy's Minstrels,) WARD,<HSEP>STEPHENS, KITTS,<HSEP>NESBET, Respectfully announce to the public that they will give a series of Entertainments at the <HI REND="italics">New Hall</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Admission, $2--tickets can be procured at the bars of the principal Hotels, also at the office of the Transcript, and at the door.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Front seats reserved for ladies.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Doors open at 7 o'clock--performance to commence at 8 o'clock precisely.<HSEP>ap20-2t</P>
149.sgm: <P>On the evening of May 2d, Mr. J. A. Rowe opened his <HI REND="italics">Olympic Circus</HI>
149.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
149.sgm: circus in Sacramento City, at the new <HI REND="italics">Pacific Theatre</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Rowe's Olympic Circus,</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">At the New Pacific Theatre, on M street</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">J.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Equestrian Director, Mr. J. Rowe; Ring Master, Mr. Westcott; Clown, Mr. Moor; Leader of the Orchestra, Mr. Smithsnyder.</P>
149.sgm:<P>PROGRAMME FOR THIS EVENING, <HI REND="italics">May</HI>
149.sgm: 2 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
149.sgm:.--The performance will commence with an Overture from William Tell, performed by the Orchestra; followed by a Grand Star and Waltz Entree, on six horses, led by Mr. and Mrs. Rowe, embracing a variety of rapid evolutions.  After which, Mr. Rowe will dance his celebrated Dancing Horse "Adonis," to the favorite tune of Yankee Doodle.  To be followed by an act of horsemanship by the Little Rising Star.  Master Rafael, a pupil of Mr. Rowe's, who will execute his daring Equestrian Feats, Leaping Whip, Garters, Hoops, riding upon his head, with the horse at full speed.  Mr. Rowe will then introduce his celebrated domestic Horse Adonis, in the beautiful scene of the Indian Hunter, and his Wild Charger.  Mr. Burke will sing an Irish Comic Song, "You may travel the wide world over."  Mr. Rowe will appear in the circle and go through his principal Leaping Act, on his favorite charger, leaping a variety of difficult objects held over the circle, displaying many classical attitudes, with his horse at full speed.  At this period of the performance there will be an intermission of ten minutes, giving the audience an opportunity of refreshing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:themselves at the adjoining saloons.  Part II.--Dr. Downs will introduce the laughable scene of the Peasant's Frolic, in which the Clown will take an active part on the noble horse Napoleon.  Mr. Burke will dance a Sailor's Hornpipe.  Mr. Rowe will represent on horseback the much admired scene of the American Tar.  Intermission of fifteen minutes in order to give time for the preparation of the Afterpiece.  The whole to conclude with the very laughable pantomime of <HI REND="italics">The Cobbler's Daughter</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The Assistant Manager, Mr. Kirbey, with sufficient officers, will be in attendance to keep order and decorum.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Price of Admission</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Doors open at half past seven, and performance to commence precisely at 8 o'clock.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Tickets and private boxes can be obtained by applying at the box office from 10 A.M. to 12 M., and from 3 to 5 P.M.; also during the performance.<HSEP>m2</P>
149.sgm: <P>The completion of the new <HI REND="italics">Pacific Theatre</HI>
149.sgm: was celebrated by a grand ball, which came off at the theatre on the evening of the 25th of April, and was the grandest affair of its kind that had ever taken place in California.  In order to make the event more attractive, invitations were extended to ladies residing in San Francisco and Stockton, several of whom were present.  The following announcement of the <HI REND="italics">Grand Soiree</HI>
149.sgm: appeared in the advertising columns of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: <P>At a meeting of a number of citizens of Sacramento City, the following gentlemen were constituted Managers of a Grand Soiree to be given in honor of the erection and opening of the Pacific Theatre:Hon. Hardin Bigelow,<HSEP>   Capt. Sackett,<LB>"    T. J. White, M. D.,<HSEP>Job H. Watson,<LB>"    P. B. Cornwall,<HSEP>S. Brannan,<LB>Barton Lee,<HSEP>    Almarin B. Paul,<LB>Judge Schoolcraft,<HSEP>J. F. Morse,<LB>Judge Thomas,<HSEP>Thomas A. Warbass,<LB>Eugene F. Gillespie,<HSEP>J. A. Blossom,<LB>C. D. Cleveland, M. D.,<HSEP>A. Lee,<LB>Col. Winn,<HSEP>B. F. Washington,<LB>S. P. Dewey,<HSEP>D. Strong,<LB>A. P. Petit,<HSEP>P. Brunell,<LB>J. H. Giles,<HSEP>G. B. Freeland,<LB>F. C. Ewer,<HSEP>J. Nicholas,<LB>Col. H. A. Baker,<HSEP>T. McDowell,<LB>R. P. Pearis, M. D.,<HSEP>E. R. Pratt,<LB>James Queen,<HSEP>    W. F. Prettyman,<LB>Murray Morrison,<HSEP>I. B. Marshall,<LB>J. S. Fowler,<HSEP>R. D. Tory.<LB>At a meeting of the Managers of the Grand Soiree, held at the counting room of Messrs.  Paul, White &amp; Co., Dr. THOMAS J. WHITE was called to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:chair, and ALMARIN B. PAUL appointed Secretary.  The meeting being duly organized the following resolutions were offered and adopted:<LB>1st.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That this party shall be given on the 25th of April.<LB>2d.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the President shall appoint such persons as he may deem suitable to act on the following committees:<LB>1st.  Reception and Invitation.<LB>2d.  Floor.<LB>3d.  On Refreshments.<LB>4th.  On Finance.<LB>Judge Schoolcraft being called upon to perform this duty, reported the following:  <HI REND="italics">Committee of Invitation and Reception</HI>
149.sgm:.<LB>Hon. Hardin Bigelow,<HSEP>Murray Morrison,<LB>"  T. J. White,<HSEP>R. P. Pearis, M. D.,<LB>F. C. Ewer,<HSEP><HSEP>Col. H. A. Baker,<LB>John S. Fowler,<HSEP>C. D. Cleveland, M. D.,<LB>J. H. Giles,<HSEP><HSEP>  R. D. Tory.  <HI REND="italics">Floor Committee</HI>
149.sgm:.<LB>Judge Thomas,<HSEP>Almarin B. Paul,<LB>G. B. Freeland,<HSEP>Thomas A. Warbass,<LB>F. C. Ewer,<HSEP>G. P. Dewey,<LB>A. P. Petit,<HSEP>W. F. Prettyman.  <HI REND="italics">Refreshment Committee</HI>
149.sgm:.<LB>D. Strong,<HSEP>James Queen,<LB>B. F. Washington,<HSEP>Capt. Sackett,<LB>J. Nicholas,<HSEP>E. R. Pratt,<LB>J. A. Blossom.  <HI REND="italics">Committee on Finance</HI>
149.sgm:.<LB>Eugene Gillespie,<HSEP>Barton Lee,<LB>J. F. Morse,<HSEP>      Col. Winn,<LB>B. Brunell,<HSEP>Judge Schoolcraft,<LB>A. Lee.<LB>3d.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the duties of each committee be defined, and that the Secretary shall notify them of the same.<LB>4th.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the Secretary be empowered to fill all vacancies.<LB>5th.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the various committees be under the control of the managers, as a Committee of the Whole.<LB>6th.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the managers meet at the Saloon of the Theatre, to receive the reports of the various committees on Monday Evening, 22d inst., at half past 7 o'clock.<LB>7th.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the proceedings be published in the several city papers, and that the meeting now adjourn.<HSEP>T. J. WHITE, President.<LB>ALMARIN B. PAUL, Secretary.<HSEP></P>
149.sgm: <P><HI REND="bold">Grand Soiree.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At a meeting of the Managers of the Grand Soiree, holden at the Saloon of the Pacific Theatre, on the afternoon of the 19th inst., the following resolutions were adopted:</P>
149.sgm:<P>1st.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:<P>2d.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:<P>3d.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the price of admission tickets be $25.<HSEP>ALMARIN B. PAUL, Sec'y.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Committee of Invitation and Reception</HI>
149.sgm:<P>For the Grand Soiree to be given on the evening of the 25th April, at the Pacific Theatre.</P>
149.sgm:<P>HON. HARDIN BIGELOW,<HSEP>MURRAY MORRISON,</P>
149.sgm:<P>"   T. J. WHITE,<HSEP>R. A. PEARIS, M. D.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>F. C. EWER,<HSEP><HSEP> COL. W. A. BAKER,</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN S. FOWLER,<HSEP>C. B. CLEVELAND M. D.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>J. H. GILES,<HSEP><HSEP>ALMARIN B. PAUL.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ap20-3t</P>
149.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Sacramento City put on her best bib and tucker in honor of this affair.  The parquette of the theatre was floored over, a fine band of music engaged, and a magnificent supper was served for the occasion under the supervision of Mr. John S. Fowler, proprietor of the City Hotel.  Dancing was continued until the "wee small hours," and many of the participants "didn't go home till morning, till daylight did appear."  Mr. E. C. Kemble, one of the editors of the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
149.sgm:, came up from San Francisco to attend the soiree, but on examining his apparel, found that his pantaloons were a little too seedy to pass regulation muster.  His "biled shirt" and swallow-tail coat were unexceptionable, and to complete his <HI REND="italics">tout ensemble</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Charles H. Miller, one of the city fathers elected on the 1st of April, upon "sober second thought," declined the honor conferred upon him, and an election to fill the vacancy was ordered by the President of Common Council, to take place on the 21st of May.  The following patriots, anxious to serve their country, announced themselves as candidates for the office.  The cards of the two <HI REND="italics">Aeronauts</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: <P>We are authorized to announce Dr. T. J. WHITE as a candidate for a seat in the Common Council, in the place of C. H. Miller, resigned.<HSEP>mll-5t</P>
149.sgm:<P>CANDIDATE FOR THE COMMON COUNCIL.--The many friends of JAMES QUEEN, Esq., propose his name to the voters of Sacramento as a candidate for a seat in the Common Council to fill the vacancy of Chas. H. Miller, Esq., resigned.<LB>NOTICE.--The undersigned having been presented to the public as a candidate to fill the vacancy in the City Council, respectfully solicits the consideration of those of his friends who think him worthy of their support.<HSEP>JAMES QUEEN.  Election on Tuesday, May 21st.<HSEP>4t<LB>At the solicitation of individuals who have the good of Sacramento City at heart, Doct. CHARLES H. MORRILL, formerly <HI REND="italics">&AElig;ronaut</HI>
149.sgm: in the States, (a permanent resident here,) is a candidate to fill the vacancy in the Council, occasioned by the resignation of C. H. Miller, Esq.  Election to take place on the 21st instant.     m14 4t<LB>At the solicitation of my wife Nancy, who has the good of herself at heart, and <HI REND="italics">deeply</HI>
149.sgm: interested in the successful cultivation of mutton-heads, A. D. BELL, who has made several descents in a diving bell, and late one of the <HI REND="italics">floating</HI>
149.sgm: population of this <HI REND="italics">aquatic</HI>
149.sgm: city, is a candidate for the City Council at the election to take place on the 21st inst.<HSEP>1t<LB>At the earnest solicitation of numerous friends who cherish a lively interest in the welfare of Sacramento City, J. F. LUKEN, formerly <HI REND="italics">&AElig;ronaut</HI>
149.sgm: <P>The election came off as announced with the following result:</P>
149.sgm:<P>James Queen,<HSEP>1,008</P>
149.sgm:<P>W. N. Doughty,<HSEP>571</P>
149.sgm:<P>T. J. White,<HSEP>337</P>
149.sgm:<P>C. H.  <HI REND="italics">Morrill</HI>
149.sgm:,<HSEP>36</P>
149.sgm:<P>A. D.  <HI REND="italics">Bell</HI>
149.sgm:,<HSEP>1</P>
149.sgm:<P>Rejected as illegal,<HSEP>4</P>
149.sgm:<P>Whole number of votes polled,<HSEP>1,957</P>
149.sgm:<P>Queen's plurality,<HSEP>437</P>
149.sgm:<P>" majority,<HSEP>59</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Queen was triumphant, and the <HI REND="italics">Aeronauts</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the evening of April 4th, the members of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, in Sacramento City, met in the Court-house, A. M. Winn, President of the Odd Fellows Association, in the chair.  The chairman having explained the object of the meeting, a committee of five, with proper credentials, was appointed to apply to Lieutenant Fraser, D. D. Grand Sire for the State of California, requesting him to visit Sacramento and formally establish a lodge.  About the same time, the Odd Fellows, in connection with the Masons, established a hospital, the board of trustees being elected by both orders.  A series of concerts were given for the benefit of the hospital, which were liberally patronized.  The managers of the <HI REND="italics">Tehama Theatre</HI>
149.sgm: and Rowe's <HI REND="italics">Olmypic Circus</HI>
149.sgm: also gave benefits for the same object.  The following card of thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Rowe and the opening address delivered on the night of the benefit, by its author, Francis N. McCron, were published in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">To the Editors of the Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN:--Will you have the kindness to give publication to our acknowledgment of the liberal and humane conduct of Mr. Rowe, as manifested in the benefit which he recently gave to the Masons' and Odd Fellows' Hospital.  It is due to that gentlemen and the persons composing his company to say, that they all refused to deduct anything from the proceeds of the evening, for their own services; and the interest that this gentleman exhibited in making the house a good one gives him a strong claim upon the members of these orders for a liberal reciprocal patronage and support.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>We return Mr. and Mrs. Rowe, and all the individuals composing the Olympic Circus, our sincere thanks for the benefit we have received, through the efficient proceeds of their house on the 16th inst.  We also reiterate our thanks to the gentlemen of the two papers for gratuitous advertisements.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Truly, yours,</P>
149.sgm:<P>J. F. MORSE,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Secretary of Board of Trustees</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO CITY, May 19th, 1850.</P>
149.sgm:<P>MR. MCCRON, <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Yours, truly,</P>
149.sgm:<P>J. F. MORSE,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Secretary of Board of Trustees</HI>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN F. MORSE, ESQ., <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS N. MCCRON.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sacramento City, May</HI>
149.sgm: 18 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
149.sgm:<P>OPENING ADDRESS.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Can the striped banner, or the stars of State,<LB>That on the brave, or on the vicious wait,<LB>Such emblems with such emphasis impart,<LB>As an insignium near the Mason's heart!<LB>Hail, Sacred Masonry! of source Divine,<LB>Unerring mistress of the faultless Line:<LB>Whose Plumb of Truth, with never-failing sway,<LB>Makes the joined parts of symmetry obey.</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">Hail to the craft, at whose serene command<LB>The gentle arts in glad obedience stand;<LB>Whose magic stroke bids fell confusion cease,<LB>And to the finished orders yield its place--<LB>Who calls creation from the womb of earth,<LB>And gives imperial cities glorious birth!<LB>To works of art her merits not confined,<LB>She regulates the morals, squares the mind--<LB>Corrects with care the tempest-working soul,<LB>And points the tide of passions where to roll.<LB>On Virtue's tablets marks each sacred rule,<LB>And forms her Lodge an universal school,<LB>Where Nature's mystic laws unfolded stand,<LB>And sense and science joined, go hand in hand.<LB>Oh, may her social rules instructive spread,<LB>Till Truth erects her long-neglected head--<LB>Till through deceitful night she darts her ray,<LB>And beams full glorious in the blaze of day--<LB>Till man by virtuous maxim learns to move,<LB>Till all the peopled world her laws approve,<LB>And the whole human race be bound in Brother's Love.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the evening of April 30th, "Sutter Lodge, Ancient York Masons," was organized by Deputy G. M. John A. Tutt, under a dispensation from the Grand Lodge of California.  The lodge commenced with eighteen members; among whom were the following officers: E. J. Willis, W. M.; C. E. Thorn, S. W.; Addison Martin, J. W.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In addition to the Masons' and Odd Fellows' Hospital, there were several private hospitals in Sacramento City.  Their location, the names of the proprietors and tariff of prices, are fully set forth in the following advertisements, published in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">D</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Price of admission to the hospital per day, is $5, $8, $10, $15, $20, and $25, according to trouble and expense.<HSEP>ap10 3m</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Medical Partnership.</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">D</HI>
149.sgm: OCTORS T. J. WHITE and C. D. CLEVELAND have associated themselves in the practice of <HI REND="italics">Medicine, Surgery and Obstetrics</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Dr. White's personal attention will, at all times, be devoted to such cases as may be entrusted to his care.<HSEP>ap12-3m</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">S</HI>
149.sgm:<P>References--Dr. T. G. Chapman, Dr. J. B. Bridgman, Dr. S. McClure, Dr. S. P. Thomas, Dr. L. A. Birdsall, Dr. Deal, Dr. W. Bryarly.<HSEP>ap16 3m</P>
149.sgm: <P>Besides the foregoing, Drs. Morse and Stillman ran a hospital at the corner of K and Third Streets, but either professional etiquette or excessive modesty prevented them from advertising.</P>
149.sgm:<P>About the middle of May, the <HI REND="italics">e&acute;lite</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Married,</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On Wednesday evening, the 15th inst., by the Rev. Mr. Moorhouse, WM. C. YOUNG, Esq., of this city, to Miss LUCY A. BARNES, daughter of Henry Barnes, Esq., of Philadelphia.</P>
149.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The following editorial notice of the event appeared in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The most genteel affair that we have as yet witnessed in California, came off in this city night before last.  We have heretofore been inclined to yield to the ball given at San Francisco, in the Hall of the California Guards, the precedence over all other fashionable assemblages; but the affair night before last stands pre-eminently the first.  There was nothing like effort apparent, but all was ease and gentility.  The bride was dressed in white satin, trimmed with flowers.  Her dark hair was braided in the most elegant style, and a beautiful white veil added its airy grace to her person.  The bridegroom was tastefully dressed in black, with white satin vest and neckerchief.  The bridesmaid attracted scarcely less attention than the bride.  A splendid specimen bracelet, a present from the bridegroom, graced her arm, and lace caught up with flowers added to the beauty of her rich satin dress.  The ceremony was the most impressive of the kind that it has ever been our good fortune to witness.  The parties were married according to the Episcopal ritual.  They were impressed with the spirit of the solemn act, and every response was clear, distinct and heartfelt.  May the Goddess of Happiness strew their pathway with flowers.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The beautiful cottage, which has been an enigma for many weeks to some of our citizens, is tastefully and elegantly furnished.  The music was excellent, and the merry hours sped swiftly and silently away.  Our sincerest wish is, that <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"--adown life's valley, hand in hand,<LB>With grateful change of grave and merry speech,<LB>Or song, their hearts unlocking each to each,<LB>They'll journey onward to the silent land!"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the 22d of April, our cotemporary, the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm:, published by E. Gilbert &amp; Co., and edited by Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence, commenced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:its tri-weekly publication on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, alternating with the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:; therefore, the citizens had a newspaper on every morning of the week, Sunday excepted.  Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence, Mr. Jesse Giles's successor in the editorial management of the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
149.sgm:, was born on Long Island, but was a resident of New Orleans when the gold fever broke out in the States, and emigrated from that city to California, on mule back, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><illus entity="a149-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ENCAMPMENT AT THE "EMBARCADERO," SACRAMENTO, 1849.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Commercial advantages of Sacramento City--New buildings--First daily issue of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: --The <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm: follows suit--Sell my interest in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO CITY is, at this time, in point of commercial advantages and population, the second city in California.  Its population is variously estimated at from five to seven thousand, including floating population.  A year ago it contained scarcely half a dozen tents and shanties, and a bridle-path led from the bank of the Sacramento River to Sutter's Fort.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Its growth during the past ten months has been almost magical.  Here labor asks its own price, and its beck commands capital.  No chartered institutions have monopolized the great avenues to wealth; no aristocracy, grown proud from the long possession of exclusive privileges, can obtain a foothold or assert supremacy.  Circumstances have established a level, in which it is honorable to be, from which every one has an equal chance to rise, and where merit is the only sure guarantee of success.  Neither business nor capital can oppress labor in California.  Whenever its rights are invaded, the gulches and can&tilde;ons that lead down the western slope of the Sierra Nevada will furnish a safe retreat, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>A general independence is observable in the people here, which is the inevitable result of their mutual relation.  All classes are alike dependent upon each other, and obligations are mutually incurred.  The rich men of to-day were adventurers yesterday.  How natural, then, that they should respect labor, by which they have accomplished their success.  Few can be found who have secured a competency by their own exertions who do not feel a conscious pride in acknowledging it.  Labor will continue to hold the first position in California.  Rich and exhaustless as are her natural resources, they have slumbered in the bowels of the earth since creation, and the world could never be benefited by them, without the judicious application of bone and muscle-- <HI REND="italics">the real capital of the world</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The consciousness once spread throughout the people, that they can depend upon themselves with safety, has forcibly acquainted them with the tremendous strength that lies latent among them, which increases in them still more the feeling of self-reliance.  Their opinions are heard at the corners of the streets; they stand, in all their vigor, in public assemblages; and every tone of their voices speaks of independence, of calm determination, and of self-reliance.  Those who have immigrated here are, in most cases, the cream of the populace.  A manly, vigorous, intelligent race of freemen, capable of meeting any emergency, have seized upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The rapidly-increasing commerce of Sacramento City presents the strongest reasons for making it a port of entry.  It is situated at the head of ship-navigation on the Sacramento River.  A few miles above the city a bar stretches across the river, and the water from that point up is so shoal as to be navigable only by steamboats and vessels of light draft.  From Sacramento City down to the Bay of San Francisco, navigation is unobstructed.  At the very lowest stages of the water last summer and fall, vessels came up to Sacramento drawing ten feet and a half of water.  The bark <HI REND="italics">Undine</HI>
149.sgm: came up late in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:August last drawing ten feet.  The bark <HI REND="italics">Ann Welsh</HI>
149.sgm:, 390 tons, came up last October, drawing ten feet, and the bark <HI REND="italics">Strafford</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Sacramento is not only at the head of ship-navigation, but it is the natural metropolis for the rich and extensive mines of the north, south and middle forks, Yuba, Feather and Bear Rivers, Deer Creek, Cosumne, Dry Creek and the Upper Sacramento, together with all the dry-diggings contiguous.  From this extensive section of the mining country, excellent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SACRAMENTO CITY, 1850</P>
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149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>While the work on the Levee was progressing, improvements were going on rapidly on Second and J Streets.  The former street has undergone an almost complete metamorphosis.  A number of large and well-constructed buildings are completed, or rapidly approaching that point--buildings, tasty and handsome in their outward appearance, and well calculated to ornament the city.  Above J Street, there are four buildings of this description.  A new building on the corner above the theatre, owned by Lee &amp; Cornwall, designed for the postoffice, is nearly finished, and stands in agreeable contrast to the ruin of the old <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
149.sgm: opposite; showing how rapidly the customs of our own race are doing away with those of the former occupants of the soil.  The <HI REND="italics">Tehama Theatre</HI>
149.sgm: needs only a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:little outside polish to give it an imposing appearance.  A little nearer J Street, two other two-story houses, also owned by Lee &amp; Cornwall, have arisen within a few days.  Crossing J Street, between the office of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>J Street is also making rapid strides in improvements of various kinds.  Through its whole length may be seen the most gratifying evidences of the energy and enterprise of its merchants.  Besides the general improvements going on, in putting up new fronts, awnings and sidewalks, twelve new buildings are being constructed.  Ten of these buildings are two and a half stories high, fronting from twenty to thirty-five feet on J Street, and running back from forty to sixty feet.  It is now a settled fact, that the day for doing successful business in the open air or in canvas tents, has gone by, and consequently no one thinks of putting up a new building that is not of a character to confer credit on the city.  One of the finest buildings in California, in respect to dimensions and architecture, is going up between Second and Third Streets, adjoining the Humboldt.  It is forty feet front by one hundred and twenty-five feet deep, and two stories high.  The whole lower story will constitute a single saloon, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:through the centre of which, at short intervals, are massive pillars to support the ceiling.  The entire second story is designed for a dancing hall, and it will surpass anything of the kind in California.  K Street is also beginning to show signs of improvement.  The proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the first day of June, the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Such is the size of Sacramento City, and such has become its importance as a commercial mart, that we feel it to be due to the public, due to our patrons, due to ourselves, as the conductors of a public enterprise, no longer to remain stationary, while all else around us is improving in a truly liberal and energetic manner.  Newspapers are looked to as an index by which the importance of the localities they represent may be judged.  Since we could no longer do justice to the public as chroniclers of passing events, we have decided to commence with this number the issue of the " <HI REND="italics">Daily Sacramento Transcript," the first daily newspaper in California out of San Francisco</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Ten days later, June 10th, the <HI REND="italics">Transcript's</HI>
149.sgm: cotemporary, the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the first day of July, I sold my interest in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: to Mr. Gilbert C. Weld, California correspondent of the New York <HI REND="italics">Journal of Commerce</HI>
149.sgm:; and on the same day the proprietors of that journal moved into their new fire-proof brick building on K Street above Second.  Although having no pecuniary interest in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:, I remained in charge of the business department of the paper until the latter part of August.  Soon after purchasing my interest in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:, Mr. Weld was prostrated by an attack of typhoid fever.  He was for a few days an inmate of Drs. Morse &amp; Stillman's hospital, but was subsequently removed to a private boarding-house, kept by a Mr. and Mrs. Aldrich, on K Street near Fifth, where, despite the best medical treatment that could be procured and careful nursing, he passed from earth to that bourn whence no traveler returns, on the evening of the 9th of August.  Mr. Weld was a ready and graceful writer and a man of decided genius.  Had he lived, he would have made a shining mark in California journalism.  The <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This morning a melancholy duty devolves upon us.  Death has snatched from our midst one who, though newly come among us, had endeared himself to our hearts as a brother.  It is the fairest flower of our garden that is plucked.  A voice that we listened to for instruction, that cheered us through the trying hours, that joined with us in our mirth, that was full of wisdom and of love, and consolation and hope, is hushed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:forever.  Oh, how will kindred hearts, in a land that is far away, be wrung with anguish!  By our side are the miniatures of his beautiful wife and three lovely children, whose hearts must soon feel the keen pangs known only to the widow and the orphan.  A lovely daughter passed away but a few months since, and nearly broke the heart of the solitary father.  Now he has gone to meet her.  The intelligence of his bereavement cast a gloom over his silent moments which it was impossible to shake off.  It was in one of these spells that his soul burst forth, as if by inspiration, in the following gush of feeling:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Thy last sweet letter, treasured as a prize,<LB>I daily read, and think of thee, dear Mary;<LB>Of all thy beauties, all thy virtues rare,<LB>Thy lustrous, bright blue eyes, thy golden tresses,<LB>Thy matchless features, and thy seraph voice,<LB>Thy tender, loving, sympathizing heart--<LB>I think of these, and thousand other graces,<LB>And then my stubborn <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
149.sgm:, prone to <HI REND="italics">rebel</HI>
149.sgm:,<LB>Curses the hand which laid thee low in death,<LB>And robbed thy father of his choicest blessing!<LB>But thou art gone!  Why should I wish thee back?  <HI REND="italics">Thy</HI>
149.sgm: sufferings are ended--thou art saved!<LB>Saved from the sins, the sufferings of earth,<LB>The woes, the griefs which rack thy father's heart;<LB>Freed from temptation, trouble, care and pain!<LB>Saved with a <HI REND="italics">full</HI>
149.sgm: salvation, rich and free;<LB>Boundless as God's benevolence can give,<LB>And lasting as the Giver.<LB>"O my soul!<LB>Cease thy rebellings!  God has taken my child<LB>From ills to come.  What seems to thee a curse<LB>Is blessing in disguise.  Assuage thy grief,<LB>For He who caused the stroke `doeth all things well!'<LB>"'Tis done!  The bitterness of woe is past--<LB>My grief is o'er--my tears shall cease to flow!<LB>And when my spirit sinks, in days to come,</HI>
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149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">And gloom, like winter, settles o'er my soul,<LB>They mem'ry, Mary, and the blessed thought<LB>That thou art happier far than him bereaved,<LB>Will light the gloom, dispel the gathering storm,<LB>And leave the fountain in my troubled breast<LB>As peaceful as the hill-girt lake in summer.<LB>Oh! I will live, my child, as one who hopes<LB>To meet thee in a brighter, better world!"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>For versatility of talent, for brilliancy of thought, for serenity of disposition, for genial, social feeling, Mr. Weld was rarely equaled.  He was a man who won upon the affections mysteriously, and he had not an acquaintance that was not his friend.  The career before him was brilliant.  His writings were graceful, filled with the play of lively fancy, and illumined by the light of a brilliant imagination.  They had gained for him an enviable fame; but the withering blast of disease came o'er him, and the high anticipations of his friends were blighted.  His death was as his life, serene and hopeful.  He sank as sinks the star, silent, uncomplaining, beautiful.  The hearts of his many friends will be touched with grief; the spirit of his beloved wife will be bowed under the heavy bereavement; the tears of his sweet little children will flow as they remember his parting kiss.  But the star, though set, is shining still in the heavens.  He was a devoted Christian, and unaffectedly pious.  He breathed his last at about nine o'clock last evening, "at peace with God and the world."</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain John A. Sutter, the first white man who settled at New Helvetia, now Sacramento City, came overland from Jackson County, Missouri, in 1838-9.  At that time the country was the abode of savages and wild beasts.  Here, in this distant and secluded dependency of imbecile Mexico, he determined to rear the standard of American freedom.  Such was the intention and feeling of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S FORT, 1849.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter has vacated the fort at Sacramento, removed to Hock Farm and turned his attention to farming.  This farm is situated on a high and beautiful plain, on the Feather River, about 8 miles below Yuba City, and comprises about six hundred acres, around which a deep ditch has been dug.  Near the bank of the river, and close to the steamboat landing, stand the residence and outbuildings of Captain Sutter.  Above and below these are large gardens, which, in their appearance, give the best possible evidence that California is not altogether the barren, unproductive region it is sometimes reported.  The hardy pioneer who owns this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Grand entertainment given at Hock Farm by Captain Sutter--Full report of the affair--Letter from Thomas O. Larkin--Mr. Francis D. Clark and others <HI REND="italics">resolve</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ON June 2d, Captain Sutter gave a grand entertainment at Hock Farm, to which about one hundred ladies and gentlemen from Sacramento City were invited.  The following report of the affair appeared in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Day before yesterday we found ourselves in the midst of a delightful party of about one hundred ladies and gentlemen on board of the <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
149.sgm:.  The steamer left the foot of K Street about half-past eight, A.M.  Hundreds of spectators stood upon the Levee and on the neighboring vessels watching her departure.  The band was playing on the upper deck; the ladies and gentlemen were collected under the awnings; her flags were flying; the sun was shining brighty, while at the same time a cool breeze was blowing; in short, everything augured a pleasant time.  There were two things that could be depended upon: No rough weather was to be looked for, to discompose the placidity of a hundred breakfasts and cause "noise, confusion," etc., and no fears were to be entertained that a rain-storm would come up to mar the pleasure of the occasion.  The crowd on board were congenial to each other, and commenced forthwith to enjoy themselves by taking the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The next place we stopped at was Plumas.  This town flourishes finely, having grown up since our last trip to Marysville, some two months ago.</P>
149.sgm:<P>After passing the steamers <HI REND="italics">Martha Jane</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Linda</HI>
149.sgm: on their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>The arrival at this place was one of the most interesting parts of the trip.  As we rounded into sight, our coming was announced by the blowing of the whistle.  This was responded to by the firing of cannon on the bank of the river in front of Captain Sutter's house.  Amid the echoes, our band struck up "Hail Columbia," and as we neared, another report from the cannon was responded to by the crowd upon our deck, who raised nine hearty cheers for the inmates of Hock Farm.  Captain Sutter and his family came forth from the house and down to the edge of the bank.  One more report from the cannon and the plank was thrown to the shore, and the crowd poured out of the boat, as this was their place of destination.  Captain Sutter, after recognizing his old acquaintances in his usual cordial manner, stepped back into the spacious inclosure in front of his house, where he received his friends and was introduced to his other guests.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Indians who stood in crowds upon the bank were thunderstruck, not less with the whole scene than with the music from the band.  Captain Sutter informed us that this was the first time they had heard anything of the kind.  A long table was set in the shade in front of the house, loaded with the delicacies of the season.  The company seated themselves under the direction of General Winn, the agent of Captain Sutter, who had previously been appointed by the company Master of Ceremonies.  Captain Sutter and family took seats at the centre of the long table; the ladies sat at his right and left; General Winn sat at one end, and the rest of the company seated themselves promiscuously at the table.  The time was passed very sociably and at last the regular toasts came off.  The first was drunk by the whole company, standing, it was--</P>
149.sgm:<P>1.  To Mrs. Sutter.  Captain Sutter responded on behalf of his lady and gave--</P>
149.sgm:<P>2.  A hearty welcome to the ladies and gentlemen at Hock Farm.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Music, "Hail Columbia."</P>
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149.sgm:<P>After a pleasant little talk by which the Master of Ceremonies brought the company to order, the following toasts, which have been handed to us by the Secretary, were then given:</P>
149.sgm:<P>3.  By Mr. Stephens--Captain Sutter first, Captain Sutter last.</P>
149.sgm:<P>4.  By Mr. Morrill--To the ladies of California!  God bless them.</P>
149.sgm:<P>5.  By Mr. Johnson--Miss Sutter.</P>
149.sgm:<P>6.  By Mr. Fendrick--To the welfare of California and Hock Farm.</P>
149.sgm:<P>7.  By Mr. Hamilton--John A. Sutter, the Pioneer of California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>8.  By Mr. L. E. Boren--May the despots of all nations be dethroned and Republicanism be triumphant.</P>
149.sgm:<P>9.  By Mr. Gore--Captain Sutter; his hospitality will always be imprinted on our hearts and never forgotten.</P>
149.sgm:<P>10.  By Mr. W. E. Moody--Hock Farm, the remembrance of which will always cause our hearts to be warm.</P>
149.sgm:<P>11.  By General Winn--The World, may it all be Republican.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Two toasts were then given--one to our host and hostess and the other to the Captain of the <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
149.sgm:<P>C. H. Pierson then rose and gave--To our absent mothers and fathers, wives and children.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Bachelors and maidens all arose and drank heartily to this toast.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Sweezy then gave a toast which he read from a piece of paper.  We were unable to procure it subsequently.  We regret this as it was an excellent one.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A gentleman then arose in behalf of Miss F., of Yuba City, and gave--May all proprietors be as agreeable toward the ladies as the proprietors of Veazie City.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General Winn then gave a toast, which, if the Secretary understood correctly, was--May the charity of Californians equal the charitable feelings of Captain Sutter.</P>
149.sgm:<P>17.  By a lady--Captain Sutter: the man who taught the Digger Indians how to dig!</P>
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149.sgm:<P>18.  Mr. Wilder proposed Sacramento.</P>
149.sgm:<P>19.  By Genral Winn--California, may it be settled by those who have daughters and sons willing to enjoy themselves in this country!</P>
149.sgm:<P>This was a toast which breathed the spirit of a true Californian, who has set the example of his precept.</P>
149.sgm:<P>20.  His eldest daughter then gave--To absent friends!</P>
149.sgm:<P>21.  Mr. Buscara of China--The friends of Captain Sutter!</P>
149.sgm:<P>22.  By George W. Tyler--Captain Sutter and California--the fame of the former is world-wide and inseparably connected with the latter!</P>
149.sgm:<P>The following was given by a gentleman, name unknown--The Beauties of California, the wild flowers and the tame ladies.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Colonel Grant was called upon and gave--Brigadier-General Winn, a brave and good soldier; may he, in his march through life, never be in want of good pay and plenty of rations.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Rust gave--The reunion of the family of Captain Sutter.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mrs. Winn gave, through her husband--To the ladies now on their way to California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Latson gave--To Peter H. Burnett, the first American Governor of California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>After it had been moved and carried by acclamation, "that the thanks of the company be given to Captain Sutter for his princely hospitality," the party adjourned.  About half-past six the company took their leave, delighted with the hospitable treatment they had received; and, after giving nine cheers for Hock Farm, the boat pushed from the shore.  The band struck up "Yankee Doodle," and we wended our way back to Sacramento.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The distance up and back was about 130 miles.  The speed of the <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We are confident that we echo the feelings of every one present when we say that it will be long before the pleasuretrip to Hock Farm will be effaced from our memories.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In the month of July the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: received the following letter from Mr. Thomas <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>IRVING HOUSE, NEW YORK, May 27th, 1850.</P>
149.sgm:<P>MESSRS. FITCH, UPHAM &amp; Co., Sacramento, California,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Gentlemen</HI>
149.sgm::--By favor of Mr. Cornwall, I am in possession of your <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:.  There is no improvement in California that pleases me more than the issuing of another newspaper in that young and advancing State.  I owe much to California, and my last breath shall be spent in that acknowledgment.  That myself and wife might visit the land of our birth, after eighteen years' absence, caused me to leave that country; and the education of the <HI REND="italics">first children</HI>
149.sgm: born there of United States' parents--rather of United States mother<ANCHOR ID="n19-1">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-1">There were many of foreign fathers and California mothers.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>Please put me down on your list as a subscriber--direct to New York.  I am, with much respect,</P>
149.sgm:<P>THOMAS O. LARKIN.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A strong prejudice against foreign miners existed throughout the northern and southern mines.  Most Americans seemed to think that a foreigner had no rights which they were bound to respect.  The inhabitants of Georgetown seemed to think differently, as will be seen by the following resolutions unanimously adopted at a public meeting, and signed by Francis D. Clark, Chairman, and others:</P>
149.sgm:<P>1.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That <HI REND="italics">all men shall have permission to live in this camp, without being in any way molested</HI>
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149.sgm:<P>2.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:<P>3.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK, <HI REND="italics">Chairman</HI>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN POWERS,<HSEP>E. MONTGOMERY,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLIAM TURNER,<HSEP>T. JEFFERSON WELLS,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLIAM B. MCELVOY,<HSEP>JOHN F. WORTH,</P>
149.sgm:<P>P. COURTRELL,      A. TURNER,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Georgetown, Tuolumne County</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the month of June, the citizens of Sacramento City became very patriotic and set about devising means to celebrate the "Glorious Fourth" in a becoming manner.  The "Ancient and Honorable Order of Bricks" held a meeting and promulgated the following order of exercises:</P>
149.sgm:<P>At a meeting of the Ancient and Independent Order of "Bricks," held at the City Hotel, in Sacramento City, June 12th, 1850, officers present: A. M. Winn, Brigadier-General, President; Frank Bates, Esq., Vice-President; George McKinstry and J. Bawden, Secretaries.  The officers being seated, and the meeting organized, on motion,</P>
149.sgm:<P>1st.  It was Resolved, That we will celebrate the 4th day of July next in an appropriate manner; and for this purpose Captain J. A. Sutter and all other "Bricks" be requested to attend.</P>
149.sgm:<P>2d.  It was Resolved, That one gun for each State be fired from Sacramento City, Sutter and Sutter's Fort, at sunrise, and that the American flag be hoisted at each place.</P>
149.sgm:<P>3d.  It was Resolved, That Captain Sutter and his old California friends be invited to attend, and head the procession.</P>
149.sgm:<P>4th.  It was Resolved, That the celebration of the 4th of July should be public and free to all, and that the ladies be invited to attend.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>5th.  It was Resolved, That a Barbecue and Bear Dance be provided for the occasion.</P>
149.sgm:<P>6th  It was Resolved, That forty managers be nominated to superintend the celebration of the 4th of July.</P>
149.sgm:<P>7th.  It was Resolved, That the Ancient Order of Free Masons, the Order of Odd Fellows, the Municipal Authorities of San Francisco and Sacramento City, and the Military and Fire Companies, the Sons of Temperance, and other benevolent institutions of Sacramento City, be invited to attend.</P>
149.sgm:<P>8th.  It was Resolved, That the Attorney-General be requested to deliver the oration, and that Geo. McKinstry, Esq., read the Declaration of Independence.</P>
149.sgm:<P>9th.  It was Resolved, That the Governor and his staff, the Major-General and Brigadier-Generals and their staffs of this division, be also requested to attend.</P>
149.sgm:<P>10th.  It was Resolved, That Captain Sutter be added to the list of Managers, and that his name be placed at the head of the list.</P>
149.sgm:<P>11th.  It was Resolved, That the captains of vessels in port be requested to hoist their flags at sunrise, and that they and their crews be invited to attend the procession in a body.</P>
149.sgm:<P>And then, according to the resolutions adopted, the following gentlemen were appointed Managers: Captain J. A. Sutter, Hock Farm; His Excellency, P. H. Burnett, Governor; J. McDougall, Lt. Governor; Maj. Gen. T. J. Green, Brig. Gen. Eastland, Brig. Gen. A. M. Winn, Col. H. E. Robinson, J. P. Rodgers, Maj. J. S. Fowler, Maj. Murray Morrison, Maj. N. E. Latson, Maj. J. P. Hughes, Maj. W. Bryarley, Maj. T. Emory, Col. G. A. Grant, Capt. W. E. Shannon, Lt. A. H. Barber, Capt. Hammersley, Maj. Justus McKinstry, Maj. P. B. Reading, Maj. Snowden, Hon. S. C. Hastings, Hon. H. Bigelow, Hon. J. Bigler, Hon. E. O. Crosby, Dr. T. J. White, Mr. D. Strong, Mr. J. McDowell, Hon. J. L. Thomas, Hon. B. F. Washington, Hon. C. E. Lackland, Hon. E. J. Willis, Dr. Frank Bates, Mr. Geo. Mckinstry, Mr. Saml. Norris, Mr. J. W. Hastings, Mr. Wm. Dowlin, Mr. J. Bowden, Mr. Samuel Brannan, Hon. T. J. Henley, Mr. Barton Lee.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On motion, it was Resolved, That the Managers be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>Resolved, That the Editors of the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Signed:<HSEP>A. M. WINN, <HI REND="italics">President.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>FRANK BATES, <HI REND="italics">Vice Pres</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Signed:</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEO. MCKINSTRY, JOSEPH BAWDEN,<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Secretaries</HI>
149.sgm:<P>For some unexplained reason, the adjourned meeting of the "Bricks" did not take place, and only two of the schemes for celebrating the Fourth of July were carried out--that of the Sons of Temperance and the celebration at Brighton, on the south bank of the American River, about five miles from Sacramento City.  The first Fourth of July celebration in Sacramento City passed off in a blaze of glory, in accordance with the following programmes, and the participants were happy:</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION,</HI>
149.sgm:<P>AT THE PAVILION, BRIGHTON.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">ORDER OF EXERCISES.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Under the direction of Major A. C. Latson, one gun for each state will be fired, commencing at sunrise.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On the arrival of the procession from Sacramento, the Declaration of Independence will be read by George McKinstry, Esq., and an oration by Col. E. J. C. Kewen; after which a splendid Dinner will be served at the Pavilion for as many as desire to partake.  In the evening a splendid <HI REND="italics">Ball Soiree</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The Pavilion is unsurpassed by any public house in this country, furnishing ample accommodations for all; private rooms for families, newly furnished, and the whole house fitted for the comfort of regular or transient visitors.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A band of music will be in attendance during the day and evening.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The ball soiree will be under the direction of the following gentlemen:</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Honorary Managers</HI>
149.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Acting Managers</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Capt. J. A. Sutter,<HSEP>Col. E. J. C. Kewen,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. Hardin Bigelow,<HSEP>F. C. Ewer, Esq.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. A. M. Winn,<HSEP>Dr. W. Bryarly,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Col. J. B. Starr,<HSEP>J. E. Lawrence, Esq.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>D. G. Whitney, Esq.,<HSEP>Hon. C. C. Sackett,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Geo. McKinstry, "<HSEP>J. Sherwood, Esq.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>R. D. Merrill, "<HSEP>A. C. Monson,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Barker Burnell, "<HSEP>Col. T. A. Warbass,</P>
149.sgm:<P>J. R. Hardenbergh, Esq.,<HSEP>Maj. J. P. Hughes,</P>
149.sgm:<P>J. A Haines, Esq.,<HSEP>Col. John S. Fowler,</P>
149.sgm:<P>J. W. Winans, "<HSEP>Col. H. E. Robinson.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Omnibuses will run from Sacramento to the Pavilion at all hours of the day.<HSEP>jy2-3t</P>
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149.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">FOURTH OF JULY.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At a meeting of the Pacific Star Division No.1, of the Order of the Sons of Temperance, held at their Hall on J street, June 20th, 1850, it was unanimously agreed to celebrate the coming Anniversary of our Nation's Independence, as an "Order," in connection with the citizens of Sacramento City generally.</P>
149.sgm:<P>PROGRAMME.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The exercises will open at 10, A.M., in a suitable room--due notice will be given hereafter.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1st.  Music--a National Air.</P>
149.sgm:<P>2d.  Reading the Declaration of Independence--Hon. E. J. Willis, reader.</P>
149.sgm:<P>3d.  Music.</P>
149.sgm:<P>4th.  Oration--J. C. Zabriskie, Esq., orator.</P>
149.sgm:<P>5th.  Music--Hail Columbia.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At 12, M., the procession, under the direction of Benj. B. Nickerson, Esq., Marshal, and two assistants, will move to the river, and, after a short excursion thereon, will proceed to the house of Capt. Coon, where a collation will be served up expressly for the occasion.  After the cloth is removed, there will be addresses, toasts, &amp;c.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Mayor, Common Council, and citizens generally, are respectfully invited to participate in the exercises.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A good band of music will be secured for the occasion.</P>
149.sgm:<P>By order of the<HSEP> COMMITTEE OF ARRANGEMENTS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>N.B. Col. Zabriskie has consented at this late hour to prepare an Oration for the occasion, in consequence of the decease of the Rev. Mr. Kalloch, who had previously been engaged.<HSEP>je25 tf</P>
149.sgm:<P>BRIGADE HEAD QUARTERS,</P>
149.sgm:<P>2d Brig. 1st Div. C. M.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Sacramento City, June 29th, 1850.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ORDERS NO. 2.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Our Nation's birthday will be celebrated throughout this Brigade on next Thursday, the 4th day of July.</P>
149.sgm:<P>One gun for each State will be fired.</P>
149.sgm:<P>From Sutter's Fort, by Maj. W. Bryarly.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  Brighton, by Maj. A. C. Latson.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  Norristown, by Capt. Sam'l Norris.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  Sutter, by Maj. L. W. Hastings.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  Sac. City, by Maj. John P. Rodgers.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The first gun will be fired at sunrise, when the flags at each of these points, as well as the flags of the shipping in port, will be hoisted.  Music--"Hail Columbia."</P>
149.sgm:<P>Immediately after each regular round and simultaneous with each gun at Sacramento City, the shipping will fire their guns.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A salute of thirteen guns will be fired for Capt. John A. Sutter, from Sutter's Fort, at 12 o'clock, under the superintendence of Maj. John S. Fowler.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The members of the staff, and those intending to take part in the morning celebration, will meet at the city Hotel at 8 o'clock, on the evening of the 3d of July.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Capt. Sutter, his old California friends, and the Brigadier General and staff will join the general procession at half past 11 o'clock.</P>
149.sgm:<P>By order of Brig. General A. M. WINN, jy2<HSEP>JOHN S. FOWLER, Aid.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">FOURTH OF JULY.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>An Oration will be delivered and a cold collation served up at Washington, opposite Sacramento City, on the Fourth of July, at the spacious Hall of Capt. M. T. Coon.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Pacific Star Division Sons of Temperance, No. 1, will be present.  The citizens of Sacramento, Fremont, Marysville, Yuba City, Eliza and Nicholaus, are particularly invited.  A steamer will leave Marysville at an early hour on the morning of the 4th, to arrive at Washington in time for the festivities of the day.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Programme: 1st. A salute of thirteen guns will be fired at sunrise, when the stars and stripes will be unfurled to the breeze.</P>
149.sgm:<P>2d.  At 12 o'clock, M., a salute of thirteen guns, when the Sons of Temperance will embark from Sacramento City, and on their arrival will be escorted to the dining hall, by the citizens of Washington and visitors.</P>
149.sgm:<P>3d.  The exercises will commence at 3 o'clock, P.M., with</P>
149.sgm:<P>1st. Music.</P>
149.sgm:<P>2d.  Reading of the Declaration of Independence, by Dr. H. A. Weeks, of Fremont.</P>
149.sgm:<P>3d.  Oration by Wm, M. Zabriskie, Esq.</P>
149.sgm:<P>4th. Music: Hail Columbia.</P>
149.sgm:<P>5th. Salute of thirteen guns at sunset.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The hall will be illuminated in the evening, and the whole will conclude with a ball.  A band of music will be in attendance.</P>
149.sgm:<P>jy1-2t<HSEP>MAHLON T. COON.</P></DIV>
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149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Land-titles in Sacramento City--The squatters organize and mean business--Buildings erected by the squatters demolished--The squatters hold incendiary meetings and declare war to the knife--Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney killed and Mayor Bigelow dangerously wounded--Burial of Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney--The citizens organize military companies--Relief for the overland emigrants--Farewell to Sacramento City.</P>
149.sgm:<P>DURING the summer the squatter element portended trouble.  The titles to real estate in Sacramento were somewhat mixed, and the squatters contended that they had as much right to the land as those holding titles under Sutter.  A squatters' organization was formed, which held frequent meetings, and its members made violent and incendiary speeches, which, at first, were considered by the Mayor and more conservative citizens, as mere vaporings; but they soon learned that the squatters were in dead earnest and meant business.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On the 21st of June, four or five persons, holding property under Sutter's title, demolished a squatter's house erected on a lot belonging to one of the party.  On the following day, twenty-five or thirty persons made a raid on certain other lots of land which had been seized and appropriated by the squatters.  They repaired with the proper implements to the Levee just above J Street, partially <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>A few days afterward, a squatter who had taken possession of a lot in the outskirts of the city, was asked by a gentleman by what authority he expected to hold the property on which he had squatted.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"By preemption, <HI REND="italics">of course</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"Look here," said the gentleman, "what causes the ground here to be so uneven?"</P>
149.sgm:<P>"Why, it has been ploughed," was the answer.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>"Well," continued the former, "don't you think the man who ploughed this land has got the start of you; is he not the oldest settler?"</P>
149.sgm:<P>When the squatter learned that Captain Sutter had actually <HI REND="italics">settled</HI>
149.sgm: on the land a number of years previously, and had all the title he required to make his property secure until another government assumed jurisdiction, the squatter concluded the preemption law would not reach his case, and immediately pulled up stakes and <HI REND="italics">vamosed</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the evening of the 1st of July, the squatters held a meeting at the Herkimer House, on Fourth Street.  Dr. Robinson was appointed Chairman, and Mr. Milligan, Secretary.  The Secretary stated the object of the meeting, which was to make arrangements to meet the suits against them, <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
149.sgm:; each man was now defending himself, on his own hook; the poor could ill afford it; the meeting had been called to form a contract, raise a requisite subscription, and employ the <HI REND="italics">right kind of counsel</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Edwards thought Mr. Milligan's remarks cast reflection upon the counsel who had already <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:been employed; he thought their counsel were <HI REND="italics">the best</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The resolution was amended by increasing the number from two to five.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Dr. Robinson said the Common Council had undertaken to legislate in regard to public property--property on which no action can be taken except by the Legislature.  He would ask "has the Mayor any right to say what is <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>In about half an hour the meeting reorganized.  Dr. Robinson was again placed in the chair, and Mr. Edwards was appointed Secretary.  Mr. McClatchy requested the reading of an article from the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Burt thought going to law unnecessary, for the whole thing was illegal and could not be sustained.  Mr. Milligan said the object was to keep their enemies at bay until the question could be brought before a legal tribunal, where justice would be done.  He asked nothing but what was right.  Squatters were only aiming at justice; <HI REND="italics">satisfy them</HI>
149.sgm: that Sutter's title was good, and they would leave the land <HI REND="italics">as quick as a flea would jump off a hot griddle</HI>
149.sgm:!  The resolution was again read and adopted, and the following committee appointed: Messrs. Wenner, Milligan, Mayhall, Plumbe and Canfield.  An additional committee of five was then appointed to solicit subscriptions, and as a remuneration for their services, they were allowed to <HI REND="italics">retain five per cent. of the amount collected</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Pursuant to adjournment, the squatters met on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The Secretary asked, "How much money has your committee obtained already?"  Mr. Milligan replied, "We are not prepared to answer definitely, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:but think the subscriptions and cash in the city amount to $1,200.  His friend, Mr. Allen, had told him he knew fifteen men who would give liberally, probably $100 each."  Mr. Milligan thought if they got that amount it would be a good beginning; not much had been done; all that part of <HI REND="italics">Squatter-row</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The chairman, Dr. Robinson, said that lawyers always like to know where their bread and butter is, and if the money could not all come, they would no doubt ask good security.  Now suppose they ask $2,000 down and $2,000 secured, where are your bondsmen?  That must be arranged; and if the immigrants are expected to pay a part, some plan must be adopted to let them into the benefits when they come, by paying a fee.  If this is not done, the immigrants, when asked to subscribe for what has been done, may say the lawyers are a villainous set of scoundrels, and we will cheat them out of all we can anyhow.  So some one ought to be responsible, that the counsel might feel secure.  Mr. Milligan thought the committee themselves ought to be the bondsmen.  Mr. McClatchy thought it best to leave the matter open until next meeting.  He desired to go into the country on Sunday if he could <HI REND="italics">steal a horse</HI>
149.sgm: or borrow one.  Sunday was a good day, and collecting squatter subscriptions a good deed.  Dr. Robinson tendered his horse, and said that the animal had once made $300 on a similar excursion.  Mr. McClatchy accepted the offer.  After some further desultory remarks, a committee of three was appointed to draft a proper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:heading for subscriptions, which would make it a joint-stock matter, and if any surplus should be subscribed over and above expenses, <HI REND="italics">it should be divided</HI>
149.sgm:.  Mr. Mayhall was appointed one of said committee.  Mr. Washington was nominated by a gentleman, who said he did not mean Mr. Recorder Washington, but Colonel Crawford Washington; therefore Messrs. Mayhall, Washington, and John W. Carter were the committee.  Mr. McClatchy had learned that the committee had refused to take a subscription of less than $25 from any individual.  Mr. Edwards knew a lady who had given $25.  Mr. Milligan thought a lady <HI REND="italics">ought to be worth</HI>
149.sgm: $25 <HI REND="italics">in California</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the evening of July 24th, another squatter meeting was held at the Herkimer House.  The meeting organized by appointing Dr. Merrick, Chairman, and James McClatchy, Secretary.  Dr. Robinson stated the object of the meeting was to take into consideration the matter of lawsuits.  He stated that the committee had employed Messrs.  Tweed, Aldrich, Mayhall and McKune on equal terms--$1,000 each.  These gentlemen had consented to do the settlers justice, if they would in turn do their part, and pay them <HI REND="italics">a sum</HI>
149.sgm: of money--which Dr. R. did not name--in advance.  If the issue was successful, the settlers were expected to do what they could afford to in addition to the $4,000.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:Of the subscriptions, all over $4,000 to be common stock for the subscribers for their benefit as an association--collector to receive five per cent., and Mr. James McClatchy to be collector.  The speaker said he was willing to trust Mr. McClatchy in town, but he wouldn't be responsible for him when he got out of town!  Mr. McClatchy said he was a law-abiding citizen, but if these speculators were ready to fight, so was he.  He would rather fight than collect subscriptions, any day; and if they showed fight, give them battle, and the devil take the hind-most.  Let us put up all the fences pulled down, <HI REND="italics">and put up the men who pulled them down</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the morning of August 14th the culminating point was reached, and the impending conflict commenced.  On the previous day, James McClatchy and Michael Moran were arrested and taken before Justice Fake, charged with being parties in a contemplated attempt to resist the Sheriff, should he enforce the law in accordance with a decision given by Judge Willis against the squatters.  The testimony was against the prisoners, and in default of bail of $2,000 each, they were both confined in the prison-ship.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 14th, a house on Second Street having been seized by the Sheriff, in accordance with the law, the squatters assembled in armed force of about thirty, under a leader by the name of Malony.  They proceeded to the house which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Mayor Bigelow, who was on horseback, issued his orders at Warbass's corner, calling upon the citizens to take up their arms for the defense of the laws of the city and of California.  He then made the same proclamation on the opposite corner, and subsequently further up on J Street, opposite the Southern Hotel.  Numbers at each place rushed for their arms, and began to assemble at the prison-ship.  It seems, however, that the squatters, when they reached the outlet of Sutter's Lake, just above J Street, stopped and commenced moving lumber from a certain lot of land.  Soon, however, Malony, their leader, addressed them briefly, stating that the lumber belonged to a friend, and that he would have it removed soon.  This was satisfactory to them, and they marched in regular order, headed by their captain with drawn sword, up J Street.  They were followed by a crowd of unarmed citizens, who were hooting and laughing at them.  When the crowd of citizens reached the corner of Second and I Streets, one of their number stated that the Mayor was approaching, and that they had better <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>They drew up in line across Fourth Street, facing on J Street, with their leader on the right.  The Mayor and Sheriff rode up and commanded the squatters to lay down their arms and deliver themselves up as prisoners.  As the citizens were approaching, Malony commanded his men to fire, and said distinctly: " <HI REND="italics">Shoot the Mayor; shoot the Mayor</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At the first fire, Mayor Bigelow, who, throughout <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. J. M. Woodland, City Assessor, was also shot.  He did not speak after he fell, and survived but a few moments.  The ball passed through his body, on the left side.  No citizen was more respected than Mr. Woodland, and few were more useful.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Malony, captain of the squatters, was also shot dead.  He received three wounds; one in the arm, one in the back and one through the head, which caused almost instantaneous death.  A man by the name of Jesse Morgan was also killed by a shot through the neck.  He was from Holmes County, Ohio, and had but recently arrived with his wife and one child.  He was proprietor of the Oak Grove House.  One other person was killed on the side of the squatters, name unknown.  In addition to Mayor Bigelow, the wounded were Dr. Charles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>During the fight there were four persons killed, and five wounded.  Of those killed, three were squatters, and one of the citizens party.  Of the wounded, four were of the citizens party, and one was a squatter.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Sheriff McKinney showed himself, through the whole affray, every inch a man.  A squatter who was armed with a revolver, deliberately aimed at the Sheriff and discharged six balls at him, none of which, fortunately, took effect.  Dr. White, Recorder Washington, Mr. Ruth and Dr. Pearis also acquitted themselves nobly.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Assessor Woodland was buried on the following <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO></PAGEINFO>
149.sgm:<P>The Sheriff thereupon commanded a halt, and sent two men forward to the house.  While these men were absent, the Sheriff drew up his small force in line, and divided them into three squads of six men each.  One squad was under the command of General Winn and another under Mr. Robinson.  The Sheriff's orders were that one party should approach the house from the left, Mr. Robinson's party were to approach it from the right and General Winn's in front.  Thus the parties proceeded, Sheriff McKinney taking charge of General Winn's division.  When they reached the front of the house, the Sheriff called upon the men, in a jocose manner, to dismount and and take a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:drink.  He, with several others, entered the house, while the balance of the squad were hitching their horses.  Upon finding men in an adjoining room, armed and ready to receive him, he commanded them to lay down their arms.  The squatters replied with a volley.  There were eight or ten squatters in the house.  A general melee then ensued, and brisk firing was kept up by both parties for a few minutes.  Shots passed in and out of the windows and the door, and constant firing was going on in the house.  In the confusion, Sheriff McKinney had gotten out of the house, and as he was standing near the front door, a tall man fired at him from the inner room.  He had a long gun loaded with buck-shot.  The aim was too sure, and Sheriff McKinney was shot.  He raised both hands and said three times, " <HI REND="italics">I'm dead, I'm dead, I'm dead</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Just after the tall man shot the Sheriff, Dr. Bryarly, who was near, aimed his pistol at him and fired.  The ball probably took effect, for the man dropped his gun and fell over.  In the melee, two squatters named Kelly and Henshaw, who fired from behind the bar, were shot dead.  Captain Radford was severely wounded in the forearm, the bones being broken.  Four prisoners were captured and taken to the Pavilion.  During the firing, Captain Hamersley was thrown from his horse and injured in the back.  One of the prisoners was then taken to town under guard, and parties proceeded to the city to inform the citizens of the state of affairs.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The first reinforcement that reached the Pavilion from the city, was a party of ten men led by Mr. Lundy.  The second was a party of twelve men led by Mr. Tracy.  General Winn formed them in line and made a brief address.  The three remaining prisoners were placed in an omnibus, together with Captain Radford and the remains of Sheriff McKinney, and a guard of horsemen accompanied the omnibus to the city.  The names of the prisoners in the omnibus were John Hughes, James R. Coffman and William B. Cornogg.  The body of the Sheriff was left at Sutter's Fort, and the prisoners were conveyed down J Street, along Front, to the prison-ship.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On the part of the authorities, Sheriff McKinney was killed and Captain Radford wounded, not mortally.  On the part of the squatters, two were killed and two wounded, and four were taken prisoners.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Dr. Bryarly, Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Milne, Mr. Creal, Mr. Bruce and an unknown German gave evidence of great bravery during the affray.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In a few hours after the outbreak of the 14th, Company A was formed and reported ready for duty.  The following is the muster-roll of the Company:  <HI REND="italics">Captain</HI>
149.sgm:, Jeremiah Sherwood; <HI REND="italics">First Lieutenant</HI>
149.sgm:, Lewis Smith; <HI REND="italics">Senior Second Lieutenant</HI>
149.sgm:, J. Weatherspoon; <HI REND="italics">Junior Second Lieutenant</HI>
149.sgm:, Lyman B. Munson; <HI REND="italics">Orderly Sergeant</HI>
149.sgm:, George Lattie; <HI REND="italics">Second Sergeant</HI>
149.sgm:, B. Phinney; <HI REND="italics">Third Sergeant</HI>
149.sgm:, Geo. H. Buckley; <HI REND="italics">Fourth Sergeant</HI>
149.sgm:, John Mason; <HI REND="italics">First Corporal</HI>
149.sgm:, George King; <HI REND="italics">Second Corporal</HI>
149.sgm:, Edward Corigan; <HI REND="italics">Third Corporal</HI>
149.sgm:, John Mattin; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>349</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Fourth Corporal</HI>
149.sgm:, Lyman Bates; <HI REND="italics">Musician</HI>
149.sgm:, James Lattie; <HI REND="italics">Privates</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the evening of the same day, another company was organized under the name of " <HI REND="italics">The Sacramento Guard</HI>
149.sgm:," and the following officers were elected:  <HI REND="italics">Captain</HI>
149.sgm:, David McDowell; <HI REND="italics">First Lieutenant</HI>
149.sgm:, Henry Hale; <HI REND="italics">Second Lieutenants</HI>
149.sgm:, W. H. Crowell, James Queen; <HI REND="italics">Sergeants, First</HI>
149.sgm:, H. G. Langley; <HI REND="italics">Second</HI>
149.sgm:, B. B. Gore; <HI REND="italics">Third</HI>
149.sgm:, C. C. Flagg; <HI REND="italics">Fourth</HI>
149.sgm:, W. H. Talmage; <HI REND="italics">Corporals, First</HI>
149.sgm:, L. J. Wilder; <HI REND="italics">Second</HI>
149.sgm:, G. L. Hewitt; <HI REND="italics">Third</HI>
149.sgm:, T. H. Borden; <HI REND="italics">Fourth</HI>
149.sgm:, W. E. Moody; <HI REND="italics">Clerk</HI>
149.sgm:, W. R. McCracken; <HI REND="italics">Privates</HI>
149.sgm:<P>After Mayor Bigelow had fallen, the Common Council assembled and placed Recorder Washington at the head of the police of the city.  The Council then granted him authority to raise any number of men not to exceed five hundred.  It was also voted that Mr. Demas Strong, President of Council, should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>350</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On examination of the wounds of Mayor Bigelow, it was deemed advisable to amputate his thumb, and the operation was performed by Dr. Birdsall.  Subsequently mortification set in, and the Mayor was removed to San Francisco, where his arm was amputated.  For nursing, etc., after the operation had been performed, the following <HI REND="italics">modest</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, Nov. 29th, 1850.</P>
149.sgm:<P>HON. H. BIGELOW, <HI REND="italics">Mayor of Sacramento City</HI>
149.sgm:<P>To J. W. STILLMAN, Dr.</P>
149.sgm:<P>For Cash advanced for sundries during his illness at my house,<HSEP>$480.00</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  Cash paid <HI REND="italics">for washing clothes soiled</HI>
149.sgm: by his wounds,<HSEP>165.00</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  Five weeks' use of best and largest room in house, &commat; $100 per week,<HSEP>500.00</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  One carpet, ruined by chloride of lime, used in sick-room,<HSEP>77.00</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  Cash paid for pair of boots,<HSEP>16.00</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  Sundries, bandages, extra candles, extra refreshments, wines, etc., for self and attendants at night, etc., five weeks,<HSEP>500.00</P>
149.sgm:<P>"  <HI REND="italics">Five weeks' attendance of Mrs. Stillman, night and day</HI>
149.sgm:,<HSEP>500.00</P>
149.sgm:<P>Total,<HSEP>$2,238.00</P>
149.sgm:<P>Sheriff McKinney was buried on the 16th, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>351</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Late in the summer, intelligence reached Sacramento City, that great suffering existed among the overland immigrants.  Public meetings were held, a relief committee organized, money subscribed, provisions purchased, and trains dispatched for the relief of the sufferers.  The first meeting, started <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>352</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Wm. Waldo,<HSEP>$1,000</P>
149.sgm:<P>B. Jennings,<HSEP>1,000</P>
149.sgm:<P>Thos. J. Henley,<HSEP>100</P>
149.sgm:<P>M. Walthall,<HSEP>100</P>
149.sgm:<P>R. J. Watson &amp; Co.,<HSEP>250</P>
149.sgm:<P>S. P. Dewey,<HSEP>100</P>
149.sgm:<P>W. W. Warner,<HSEP>50</P>
149.sgm:<P>Cash paid on the spot,<HSEP>200</P>
149.sgm:<P>William Rightmire, one good mule.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Several smaller sums were also subscribed, amounting in the aggregate to several hundred dollars.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Late in the month of August, with the following "Character"--from the editorial columns of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<P>DEPARTURE OF MR. UPHAM.--The next steamer for the States will bear from us one who was with us in the commencement of our enterprise, and whose judgment and business talent have been to us of incalculable benefit.  We allude to Mr. Upham.  Our acquaintance with him was accidental.  We became partners almost at first sight, but never did we find occasion to regret for a moment the unbounded confidence we always reposed in him.  He leaves us while we are mourning the death, in our midst, of one of the noblest of men--thus adding to our sorrow and depriving us of another member of our family.  Verily, the friendship which springs up between business men in this country is unlike the general acquaintanceship of other lands, which is laid aside without any apparent regret, and resumed only when politic or convenient.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>353</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Upham came to California prepared to commence at the bottom of the ladder, and climb slowly but surely up.  Like most new-comers, he went to the mines and dug.  His health failed him, and he returned to San Francisco late in the fall of last year.  After a few days of unsuccessful effort to get into business, he finally secured the situation of carrier of the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>354</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Down the Sacramento on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
149.sgm: --San Francisco in the fall of 1850--Farewell, San Francisco--Homeward bound--The steamer <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm: --Captain Peck--Incidents on board--Arrival at Acapulco--Scenes on shore--Conflict of authority--Overland emigrants <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm: City of Mexico--Arrival at Panama--Go ashore pig-a-back--Immersion without the benefit of clergy--Panama in 1850--Two of the <HI REND="italics">Columbus's</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I ENGAGED passage on board the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The most populous part of the city had, within that time, twice fallen a prey to that devouring element--fire.  New and tasteful brick structures had superseded the frail <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
149.sgm: and wooden tenements; the streets and sidewalks had been planked; piers and wharves, extending across the mud-flats far into the bay, had been constructed; in fact, the city had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>355</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>EAST SIDE PLAZA, 1850.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>357</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:put on an entirely new dress.  Happy Valley, which, four months previously, contained scarcely half a dozen frame buildings, now boasted as many hundreds.  Verily, this <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
149.sgm: is a wonderful country; and San Francisco, despite clouds of dust and chilly afternoons, is destined to become the second city on this continent.  Farewell, San Francisco!  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Thy beautiful harbor, proud golden-gemmed Queen,<LB>Is rivalled by none the world has e'er seen!"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We will now step on board the steamship <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm:, commanded by that prince of captains, J. B. Peck.  At six o'clock on an August afternoon, amid the adieus of friends who had assembled to see me off, the scramble among trunks, bags and other luggage, the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm:<P>As the shipping in the harbor receded from my view, the little hamlet of Soucileto, nestling quietly among the hills on the opposite side of the bay, hove in sight, but was soon lost in the dim distance.  As the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm: approached the Golden Gate, she bounded gayly over the water, impatient to reach the broad bosom of the Pacific.  I shall never forget the memories that crowded my brain as I passed through the Golden Gate homeward-bound.  When I entered the harbor of San Francisco, on board the brig <HI REND="italics">Osceola</HI>
149.sgm:, thirteen months previously, feelings of a far different nature occupied my mind.  The difference between an outward and a homeward-bound <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>358</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Early in the evening, I threaded my way between market-baskets, trunks and camp-stools to my stateroom, cogitating, as I passed along, upon the glories of a night's rest between clean sheets, but <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"This world is all a fleeting show,"<LB></HI>
149.sgm:<P>There were forty-two cabin and one hundred and seventy-six steerage passengers on board the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>359</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DEPARTURE OF A STEAMSHIP, FALL OF 1850.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>361</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We were favored with fine weather and a smooth sea until we reached the Gulf of California, where we encountered head-winds and cross-seas for seventy hours, during which time a majority of the passengers paid the requisite tribute to old Neptune by casting up their accounts.  Mr. Tittle was decidedly opposed to a nautical life.  He was of the opinion that life on the plains was far preferable to a <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Life on the ocean wave."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We ran down the coast of Mexico with the land close aboard.  The coast was bluff and abrupt, presenting in many places a highly picturesque <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>362</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On the afternoon of August 26th, the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm: dropped her anchor in the harbor of Acapulco, near the shore, and immediately in front of the Plaza.  The port officer had scarcely left us before we were surrounded by a fleet of small boats of almost every conceivable style of architecture, from the rude Indian canoe or <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At sunrise next morning, I went ashore, accompanied by a couple of friends, for the purpose of seeing the sights in Acapulco.  The first object that met my eye on reaching the shore, was a group of Mexican children gamboling along the gravelly beach, in a state of perfect nudity, and as I passed through the city toward the Fort, I saw several "children of a larger growth" attired in the same airy costume.  In the vicinity of the Fort, I saw several soldiers with no other uniform than a cotton shirt, glazed cap with a red bobbin, and a rusty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>363</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The city of Acapulco is situated on the northeast side of the bay, and is surrounded on three sides by a range of mountains towering to the skies, and clothed to their summits with cactus and <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
149.sgm:.  Along the beach and throughout the suburbs of the city, the symmetrical cocoanut tree, with its long sword-shaped leaves and clusters of fruit, rears its head in all its majesty, affording shade and shelter as well as food for the natives.  The city is mostly built on two streets, each about three-fourths of a mile in length, and running parallel with the bay shore.  The buildings, with the exception of the cathedral, are only one-story high and are mostly constructed of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
149.sgm:<P>After having viewed the Fort, an ancient <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
149.sgm: and sandstone structure, we visited the house of an old Scotchman, who had, some thirty years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>364</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:previously, married a native wife and became Mexicanized.  Immediately on landing, we had ordered a breakfast of chickens, eggs, milk and chocolate.  The sanitary committee had <HI REND="italics">tabooed</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the early part of the day, Captain Peck watered and coaled the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm:, and at four o'clock, P.M., the sound of her signal-gun came booming over the bay, the summons for the passengers to repair on board.  A general stampede was made for the boats on the beach, and several were filled and about to shove off, when a file of soldiers emerged from the guard-house close by and ordered the boatmen not to enter their boats.  A pretty state of affairs now presented itself.  The <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm: had fired her signal-gun and would most likely get under way within half an hour, whether the passengers were on board or not, and a <HI REND="italics">taboo</HI>
149.sgm: had been placed on all the boats.  Some cursed the boatmen; others remonstrated with the soldiers, and endeavored to ascertain the cause of the detention; but they shook their heads and said they " <HI REND="italics">no sabe Americano</HI>
149.sgm:."  However, we were not kept long in suspense.  The soldiers, headed by a nervous little citizen with a small black stick in his right hand, which he was constantly twirling about in a fidgety manner, approached two of the passengers, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>365</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:who, had, during the passage, proven themselves to belong to the sporting fraternity, and requested them to accompany him to the office of the Alcalde; but as they were decidedly opposed to being escorted through the city by an armed guard, they peremptorily declined the honor and retreated toward the boats.  The soldiers cocked their muskets and commanded them to stand.  One of the gamblers drew his revolver and threatened to shoot the first <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
149.sgm:<P>It appeared, from subsequent investigation, that the cause of the attempt to arrest grew out of a <HI REND="italics">melee</HI>
149.sgm: which had occurred at a gambling-table in the American Hotel on the previous night.  The gamblers said that the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">monte&acute;</HI>
149.sgm: bank used waxed cards, and attempted to come the "draw game" on them; and they, as a set-off, came the "grab game" on the funds of the bank, which caused an order to be issued for their arrest and trial before the Alcalde.  The escape of the gamblers on board the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm: was reported to the American consul, who immediately went on board and stated the circumstances of the case to Captain Peck, who, in his usual bland manner, informed the two "sporting gentlemen" that they could have the choice of either being confined in irons on board the steamer, or of going ashore in the custody of the consul.  After a few moments' consultation, they concluded to go ashore and stand their trial before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>366</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:the Alcalde, Judge Pratt, of Oregon, a passenger on board the steamer <HI REND="italics">Caroline</HI>
149.sgm:, having volunteered to act as their counsel in the case.  As soon as the prisoners were put upon their trial, my two friends and myself engaged a <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
149.sgm: and went on board the steamer.  We had scarcely reached the deck before the anchor was hoisted and the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm:<P>While in Acapulco, I made the acquaintance of a party of Georgians, bound for California, who came by the way of Vera Cruz and the City of Mexico.  Two of the party were brought into the city by the natives, on litters, having been taken sick on the road.  One had been attacked with cholera, and was in a critical state; the other was recovering from an attack of dysentery.  When this party left Vera Cruz, on the last of July, the cholera was raging there to an alarming extent.  The City of Mexico was quite healthy when they passed through it.  They saw several guerrilla bands on the route, but they were peaceably disposed.  They performed the journey between the City of Mexico and Acapulco, a distance of 100 leagues, in eleven days.  They report the streams very much swollen and the road very rough.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The steamer <HI REND="italics">Tennessee</HI>
149.sgm: left Acapulco on the evening the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm: arrived, bound for San Francisco, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>367</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:with only twenty passengers on board.  The steamer <HI REND="italics">Caroline</HI>
149.sgm:, from San Francisco, arrived at Acapulco some ten hours ahead of the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm:.  We had a smooth sea and a delightful run between Acapulco and Panama, where we arrived on the evening of September 4th, eight days from the former place.  The weather, with the exception of an occasional shower, was pleasant, and we had a very agreeable passage.  The health of the passengers was remarkably good during the entire passage.  The <HI REND="italics">Caroline</HI>
149.sgm: arrived in Panama fifteen minutes ahead of the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At six o'clock, A.M., on September 5th, I tumbled myself and baggage into a boat, bade the <HI REND="italics">Columbus</HI>
149.sgm: adieu, and in about half an hour there-after found myself on the shoulders of a native, who was propelling through the surf as fast as his powers of locomotion would admit of.  He landed me on the beach, in front of the city-gate, high and dry, safe and sound; damages, $4, including boat-hire.  My friend, Bowditch, formerly attached to the steamer <HI REND="italics">Governor Dana</HI>
149.sgm:, was less fortunate than myself.  The <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
149.sgm:, whom he undertook to ride ashore pig-a-back, unhorsed him--perhaps, unmanned would be the better word--in three feet of water on a coral reef, and left him floundering in the surf.  He succeeded, however, in reaching the shore, amid the shouts of the assembled darkies.  Ex-Postmaster Tittle also received an immersion without the benefit of clergy, at the hands of a boatman.  The <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
149.sgm: who carried me through the surf, seemed extremely anxious to treat me to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>368</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>At the solicitation of a friend, I accompanied him to the American Hotel, kept by an American sea-captain, but neither the house nor its proprietor realized my expectations, and, after having partaken of a miserably-served breakfast, I removed my baggage to the Louisiana Restaurant, near the gate on the Cruces road, where I remained during the three days I sojourned in Panama.  I cannot recommend this house too highly to persons traveling either to or from California.  During my stay in Panama, I visited the barracks and prison; viewed the crumbling wall, in all its meanderings, that surrounds the city; inspected the large dismantled guns on the battery fronting the bay; and last, though not least, visited several of the ancient and dilapidated churches, that at one time were the pride of the city.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Padres</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During my stay in Panama, two of the <HI REND="italics">Columbus's</HI>
149.sgm: passengers--Benj. F. Browne, of New York, and Randolph Scott, of Texas--died of cholera.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>369</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>370</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Leave Panama--To Cruces on mule back--Down the Chagres River in a <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
149.sgm: --Deaths by cholera <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm: --Mr. and Mrs. Gillingham--Go on board the steamship <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm: --Deaths by cholera--Burial at sea--Arrival at Havana--An afternoon and night on shore--Take passage on the steamship <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
149.sgm:<P>HAVING learned from the agent in Panama, that the steamship <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm: would leave Chagres on the 13th of September, thirteen of the <HI REND="italics">Columbus's</HI>
149.sgm: passengers, including myself, formed a party to cross the Isthmus, and, on the morning of the 6th, held a meeting at the Louisiana Restaurant, appointed a committee to engage mules and caterers to provide provisions for the journey, and early on the morning of the 8th, we mounted our animals in front of the restaurant, and started for Cruces, distant 22 miles.  The first six or eight miles of our journey was over what the natives termed a <HI REND="italics">mucha bueno</HI>
149.sgm: road, but the balance of the road was <HI REND="italics">mucha malo</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Belonging to our party were Mr. and Mrs. R. P. Gillingham, of Philadelphia.  Mrs. Gillingham <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>371</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Our pack-mules were addicted to the annoying habit of turning their loads whenever it suited their inclination, which caused us to scold the muleteers in bad Spanish, and the muleteers to belabor and curse the mules in a manner that proved them to be no novices at the business.  Any one who has heard an Isthmus muleteer swear must be throughly convinced that profanity is his chief stock in trade.  One of our party had the misfortune to bestride a recreant mule, probably a lineal descendant of the donkey chastised by Balaam, which bolted into the woods, threw his rider, and bruised him quite severely.  I had the good fortune to select a gentler, though a very small animal, somewhat larger than a Sacramento grandfather rat, and he carried me safely to Cruces.  As we commenced ascending the mountains the road grew worse, and we made very slow progress.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Night overtook us at a ranch 8 miles from Cruces, where we tied up until morning.  I drank <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>372</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:two cups of a villainous compound called coffee, and turned into a grass hammock, which <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Swung loose at the sport of the wind;"<LB></HI>
149.sgm:<P>In the early part of the evening, one of the <HI REND="italics">Columbus's</HI>
149.sgm: passengers was attacked with cholera, but, owing to good nursing during the night, he was able to be transported on a litter to Cruces next day.  At daylight we awoke the muleteers and sent them after the animals.  They returned about eight o'clock with all the mules except three, which they said had <HI REND="italics">vamosed</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At a ranch, 6 miles from Cruces, we saw the corpse of Thomas Robinson, of Illinois.  Mr. Robinson died of cholera two hours previous to our arrival.  While we were at the ranch, a friend returned with medicine for the sick man, but it came too late.  We buried him under a large tree near the roadside.</P>
149.sgm:<P>We spent the afternoon making arrangements for our passage to Chagres on the following day.  Myself and four others chartered a large <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
149.sgm: for $50, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>373</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:to convey ourselves and baggage to Chagres.  The owner of the <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
149.sgm: swore by all the saints in the Spanish calendar, that he would be ready to start down the river at daylight next morning; and with this assurance we retired for the night.  Friend Tittle and myself spread our blankets on the ground-floor of a bamboo hut, and turned in for a night's rest; but owing to a carnival held by the fleas over our bodies, we slept very little.  Next morning our party was at the <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
149.sgm: at the appointed hour, but the boatman had not arrived.  We soon found him, however, and at six o'clock, A.M., we shoved into the stream, and the current in a few moments hurried us out of sight of Cruces.  We passed Gorgona early in the morning, and at one o'clock, P.M., dined at the ranch of the "Two Brothers," situated about halfway between Cruces and Chagres.  Soon after leaving this place, the rain descended in torrents.  It appeared as though the flood-gates of heaven were open.  Had not two of our party kept constantly bailing the <HI REND="italics">bungo</HI>
149.sgm: during the <HI REND="italics">shower</HI>
149.sgm:, it certainly would have been swamped.  When the rain ceased, the sun shone forth in all its splendor, and during the remainder of the day we were as comfortable as the circumstances of our case would admit of.  A wet jacket at any time is unpleasant, but as this was the first and only shower experienced during our journey across the Isthmus, we bore up under it manfully, and considered that we had been highly favored by the elements.  We reached Chagres at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On the passage down the river, I saw several alligators and iguanas without number.  On the boughs of the trees and on the banks of the river, I saw parrots, paroquets, and other birds of beautiful plumage.  In the forest, on both sides of the river, monkeys were constantly chattering.</P>
149.sgm:<P>While shifting our baggage into a surf-boat, preparatory to going on board the steamship <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At half-past seven o'clock on the evening of September 10th, I stepped into a surf-boat and was soon on board the steamer <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm:, commanded by Captain Hartstein, U.S. Navy, lying in Chagres Roads, distant from the town about a mile.  There was a heavy swell setting into the mouth of the Chagres River and dashing against the battlements of the old fort, but the surf-boat rode safely over the rollers.  I went at once to the office of the clerk for the number of my state-room and berth, having purchased a through-ticket in San Francisco with the express understanding that I should have a saloon or first-cabin state-room on board the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm:.  I was informed by the clerk that all the first-class state-rooms had been taken; and, moreover, that the agent in San Francisco was not authorized to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>375</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On the night of the 11th, Daniel Norcross, Special Mail Agent, arrived with the mail, and at half-past one o'clock on the following morning, the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Barnabas Kirby, Mass., died Sept. 11th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Robt. T. Lawrence, Brooklyn, N.Y., "  "  12th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Elias Orton, Iowa,<HSEP>"  "  12th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>William Beal, Michigan,<HSEP>"  "  12th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Ismael Worthington, Ohio,<HSEP>"  "  13th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>-- McGowan, N.Y.,<HSEP>"  "  13th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>James H. Frye, Missouri,<HSEP>"  "  13th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Elisha Clark, Maine,<HSEP>"  "  13th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Augustus Norton,"      "  "  14th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Sol. Joseph, Western Islands,<HSEP>"  "  14th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>John Pinchatich, Trieste, Austria,<HSEP>"  "  15th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Richard Macy, Maine,<HSEP>"  "  16th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>J. Spaulpaugh, N.Y.,<HSEP>"  "  16th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>William Maynard, Conn.,<HSEP>"  "  16th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Crawford Riddel, Philadelphia, Pa.,<HSEP>"  "  16th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>James Campbell, Ireland,<HSEP>"  "  16th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>-- Downing, Missouri,<HSEP>"  "  16th,</P>
149.sgm:<P>-- Gates, Indiana,<HSEP>"  "  17th.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>376</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Kirby died while the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A burial at sea is a solemn scene.  "All hands to bury the dead!" is piped by the boatswain, amid the tolling of the ship's bell, and with the flag at half-mast, the corpse, wrapped in a sheet or blanket and incased in a canvas sack with a heavy weight at its feet, is placed on a plank in the gangway.  The Episcopal burial service is read by the Chaplain or Captain, and at its conclusion, a tilt of the plank, a thud, a splash in the water and all that is mortal of the deceased is ingulfed beneath the waves of the ocean, there to remain until the last great day, when this globe shall dissolve, and the grave and the sea shall give up their dead.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Out of the twenty cases of cholera on board the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm: only three were saved; and two of these were treated by Dr. J. Hobart Birge, of Sacramento City, a passenger on the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm:, to whom many thanks are due for his kindness and attention to his sick and dying fellow-passengers on the Isthmus as well as on board the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
149.sgm:.  The surgeon of the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm: treated eighteen cases of cholera, and saved only <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The accommodations for the sick on board the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm: were most miserable, and the treatment of the passengers, in cabin and steerage, did not meet their expectations.  They expected to fare as well on the Atlantic as on the Pacific, but they were disappointed so far as the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>377</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>During those five memorable days passed on board the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On our arrival in the harbor of Havana, we were informed that we would be quarantined and not permitted to visit the city.  We had anticipated this.  Imagine our surprise then, on being informed, a few hours later, that the <HI REND="italics">taboo</HI>
149.sgm: had been removed, and we could go ashore at twelve o'clock, M.  This news was hailed with joy by all on board, and at one o'clock, P.M., nearly every passenger was on shore enjoying himself to his heart's content.  Dan Norcross and myself chartered a <HI REND="italics">volante&acute;</HI>
149.sgm: for two hours, and, seating ourselves in the vehicle, ordered the postillion to trot us through the principal thoroughfares of the city.  Jehu, an African as black as the ace of spades, who, by-the-by, was incased to his hips in boots as black and shiny as his countenance, mounted the horse attached to the <HI REND="italics">volante&acute;</HI>
149.sgm:, and cracking his whip, we started off at a brisk pace, up one street and down another; now threading a narrow lane, and now rattling over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>378</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>We hurried through the city at John Gilpin speed, and from the expression of the countenances of the little urchins, who threw up their tiny hands and cheered us as we passed, I believe they wished us much joy, and also that they might be present when we rode again.  Boots performed his duty faithfully; and at the expiration of two hours, set us down in Palace Square, the place from whence we had started, and received his fee--$1--the cheapest ride between New York and California, at least I thought so at the time.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Havana is a beautiful city, and its harbor and surrounding scenery, with the exception of Rio de Janeiro and Naples, the most romantic in the world.  In the evening I sauntered about Palace Square, which was crowded with the beauty and fashion of the gay metropolis, listening to the sweet and soul-inspiring music of the military band.  The Havana <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
149.sgm: are perfect houris, and, had I been a bachelor, the steamship <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
149.sgm: would probably have had one passenger less to New York.  I remained on shore during the night, and at six o'clock next morning went on board the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm: and transferred my baggage to the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
149.sgm:, Captain J. Finley Schenck, U.S. Navy.  The <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>379</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>On the day we left Havana, the following passengers died of cholera and were buried at sea:</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Ira Gould, Huntington, L.I.</P>
149.sgm:<P>George Howell, Sag Harbor,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>William Fields, Providence, R.I.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A. Spencer, East Greenwich,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>The passengers on board the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
149.sgm: had no cause of complaint.  Captain Schenck and his officers did everything in their power to render all on board as comfortable as possible.  The table was bountifully supplied, and the servants were attentive and obliging--a marked contrast to the treatment on board the <HI REND="italics">Falcon</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ON BOARD STEAMSHIP OHIO,</P>
149.sgm:<P>At Sea, Sept. 21st, 1850.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At a meeting of the passengers held on board this ship, to express their feelings of regard for Captain Schenck and the officers under his command, Judge Woodrooff, of New Orleans, was called to the chair, and R.P. Gillingham, of Philadelphia, appointed Secretary.  The following gentlemen were appointed a committee to draft suitable resolutions: Samuel C. Upham, Philadelphia; James H. Brown, Baltimore; W. H. Bowditch, Boston; Captain Thomas F. Knowles, Baltimore, and D.S. Hunt, of New York, who presented the following resolutions, which were unanimously adopted:</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That we tender to Captain J. Finley Schenck our sincere and heartfelt thanks for the courteous manner in which he has borne himself toward all on board, and more especially for his kindly treatment of our sick and dying fellow-passengers since our departure from Havana.  His skill as a commander, and other commendable qualities, will ever entitle him to our warmest regards; and we trust that through the voyage of life <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>380</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That, through Captain Schenck, we extend our warmest thanks to the other officers of the <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the proceedings of this meeting be published in the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm:, Philadelphia <HI REND="italics">Ledger</HI>
149.sgm:, Baltimore <HI REND="italics">Sun</HI>
149.sgm:, and Boston <HI REND="italics">Post</HI>
149.sgm:<P>C. WOODROOFF, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>R.P. GILLINGHAM, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I arrived in New York thirty-eight days after my departure from San Francisco, including stoppages.  Six days' detention <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm:<P>When I left California, it was my intention to return the following year with my family, but "man proposes and God disposes."  Life's current has drifted me into other channels; the heyday of life has passed, and now, at the age of threescore I despair of again visiting the land where <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The vine and the fig-tree are laden with fruit,<LB>And the breezes blow soft as the tones of the lute,<LB>The orange-tree blossoms and fruits in the vale,<LB>The date and pomegranate, 'mid sand and the shale,<LB>The filbert and almond, and manna of yore,<LB>All abound in the land that I love and adore."</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>381</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The kaleidoscope of life is constantly changing.  The life of man is but a span--here to-day and gone to-morrow.  The Argonauts of 'Forty-nine are fast falling by the roadside and being gathered to their fathers.  Reader, as you pass down the pathway of life, culling flowers by the wayside, should you chance to meet one of those wayworn Argonauts, one of those old grizzlies of the Sierras, who has never "builded a city nor founded an empire," but who did assist in adding to the constellation of States of our glorious Union one of its brightest and sunniest stars, the Eureka State, Queen of the Pacific, treat him kindly, and when he shall have passed from earth, place upon his grave a wreath of immortelles, and God will bless you.</P></DIV></DIV>
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149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>APPENDIX.</HEAD>
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149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>PIONEER JOURNALISM IN CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: --Its editors and proprietors--"Boston," <HI REND="italics">alias</HI>
149.sgm: "Big Ames"--First newspaper published in California--The <HI REND="italics">Alta California--Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm: --The <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
149.sgm: --Bret Harte, Mark Twain and Prentice Mulford--San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Picayune, Courier</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm: --Marysville <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm: --Stockton <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
149.sgm: --Sonora <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm:<P>THE following sketch, published originally in Rowell's <HI REND="italics">Newspaper Reporter</HI>
149.sgm: and subsequently elaborated and published in N.W. Ayer &amp; Son's <HI REND="italics">Advertiser's Guide</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On my return to San Francisco from the Calaveras mines, in the month of October, 1849, I applied to the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: for permission to canvas for a carrier's route on their journal.  After a long interview, during which the project was thoroughly discussed, <HI REND="italics">pro</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">con</HI>
149.sgm:, I obtained the sole and exclusive right to canvass for subscribers and serve the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Falkner, the senior proprietor of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:, prior to emigrating to California, published a paper in Norwich, Connecticut.  When the gold fever broke out in the New England States Mr. F. was one of its first victims.  He packed up his printing-office, and engaging passage for himself and two sons on board a vessel, sailed for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>386</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:modern <HI REND="italics">El Dorado, via</HI>
149.sgm: Cape Horn.  At Valparaiso, he made the acquaintance of Warren Leland, one of the proprietors of the Clinton Hotel, New York, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm: to the gold-diggings of California.  Leland having an eye to business, proposed to enter into copartnership with Falkner upon their arrival at San Francisco.  His proposition was accepted; and immediately upon reaching San Francisco, a frame building was hastily constructed on Kearney Street, and on the 25th of August, the first number of the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: was published, with Falkner as editor, and Leland as business manager.  A few weeks subsequently, Charles Eames, of Washington, D.C., appointed by President Polk consul to the Hawaiian Islands, arrived in San Francisco <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm:, but was prevailed upon by Falkner and Leland to forego his mission, locate in San Francisco, and assume editorial charge of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:, at a salary of $500 per month.  As the election and inauguration of Zachary Taylor, as President of the United States, had rendered the recall of Mr. Eames a foregone conclusion, that gentleman considered discretion the better part of valor, and accepted the editorship of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Simultaneously with the engagement of Mr. Eames as editor-in-chief, a tall, lank, hirsute Yankee of the name of Ames <HI REND="italics">alias</HI>
149.sgm: "Boston," was engaged as a local reporter of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:.  Ames subsequently published in San Diego, California, a <HI REND="italics">weakly</HI>
149.sgm: paper, called the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm:, which for a single week was edited by "John Ph&oelig;nix," the California humorist.  During the temporary absence of Ames, Ph&oelig;nix changed the politics of the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm: from red-hot Democratic to Whig, which so exasperated Ames that a free fight occurred in the composing-room.  During the <HI REND="italics">melee</HI>
149.sgm:, the forms were knocked into pi, and the combatants became so thoroughly mixed, that t'other couldn't be distinguished from which.  Ph&oelig;nix, in his published account of the fight, claimed he won the victory <HI REND="italics">by</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<HI REND="italics">inserting his nose between the teeth of Ames</HI>
149.sgm:, and holding him down until he cried <HI REND="italics">peccavi</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: was the first tri-weekly, and at that time the third paper published in California, the other two being the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
149.sgm:, published in San Francisco by Gilbert &amp; Kemble, and the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The Monterey <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
149.sgm: was the first newspaper issued in California.  It was published and edited by Rev. Walter Colton, a Chaplain of the United States Navy, and Dr. Robert Semple.  The type was principally Long Primer, an old Spanish fount, badly worn and battered.  There being no "W" in the Spanish alphabet, two "V's" were substituted for that letter.  The press was an old "Ramage," which had been used by the Mexican functionaries for printing their edicts and other public papers.  The first number of the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
149.sgm: was issued in the summer of 1846, and was printed on an inferior quality of paper, used for tobacco wrappers.  Mr. John R. Gould, at present a resident of Baltimore, Maryland, and Secretary of the "Maryland Association of Veterans of the Mexican War," with the assistance of a boy, set the type, worked off the paper and kept the books of the office.  Mr. B. P. Kooser, a corporal in the United States Army, was compositor and pressman of the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
149.sgm: in 1847.  Mr. Kooser subsequently for several years published and edited the <HI REND="italics">Sentinel</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The second paper published in California was the <HI REND="italics">California Star</HI>
149.sgm:, the first number of which was issued at San Francisco, on the 9th day of January, 1847.  It was a weekly sheet, a trifle larger than the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
149.sgm:, and was published by Sam Brannan, and edited by E. P. Jones.  The press on which the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
149.sgm: was printed was a tolerably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>388</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:good one, and was afterward used by the Sonora <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm:.  On the 17th of the following April, Mr. Jones retired from the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
149.sgm:, and Mr. E. C. Kemble assumed editorial charge.  The <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
149.sgm:<P>In the month of May, 1847, the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
149.sgm: was removed from Monterey to San Francisco, and on the 1st of June of that year, the first number of its second volume appeared.  The second volume continued on from that time until April, 1848, during which time the paper changed publishers and editors several times.  The first number of the second volume of the <HI REND="italics">California Star</HI>
149.sgm: appeared on the 8th of January, 1848, in an enlarged form, and its publication was continued regularly until the 26th of the following May, when the printers <HI REND="italics">vamosed</HI>
149.sgm: to the mines, and its publication was discontinued.  In the month of April, the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
149.sgm:<P>About the 1st of July, a few printers, who had returned disgusted with the mines, commenced the publication of the third volume of the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
149.sgm:.  It was issued every now and then, without any regard to regularity, until August, 1848, when it recommenced its regular weekly issues, under the editorial management of H. I. Sheldon.  In September of the same year, Mr. Kemble returned from the mines, purchased the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
149.sgm:, also the interestsof his partners in the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
149.sgm:, and united the two papers under the name of the <HI REND="italics">Star and Californian</HI>
149.sgm:, and recommenced its publication where the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
149.sgm: had stopped, Vol. III, No. 24.  The <HI REND="italics">Star and Californian</HI>
149.sgm: was the only paper then published in California, and was issued weekly until the last of December, 1848, when it was discontinued, and on the 1st of January, 1849, Mr. Kemble united with himself Messrs. Gilbert and Hubbard, and commenced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:the publication of the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
149.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
149.sgm: was published weekly, until the 10th of December, 1849, when it was issued tri-weekly, and after the 23d of January, 1850, came out daily, simultaneously with the <HI REND="italics">Journal of Commerce</HI>
149.sgm:, published by W. Bartlett.  On the 4th of the ensuing March, the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The next paper, the fourth started, and the second then published in California was the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm: at New Helvetia, Sutter's Fort, afterward Sacramento City.  The first number of the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm: appeared on the 28th day of April, 1849, and was printed weekly, on a cap sheet, as paper of a larger size could not be obtained.  The publishers were E. C. Kemble &amp; Co., the editor being Mr. Kemble.  On the 19th of the following June, on account of ill health, Mr. Kemble vacated the editorial chair, and T. R. Per Lee<ANCHOR ID="na-1">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-1">At this time (September, 1878,) a resident of Baltimore, Maryland.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>In 1849, very little printing-paper was to be had in California; but the market was overstocked with unruled foolscap paper, which was substituted for the former.  The size of the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: was a foolscap sheet; and as enlargement was a matter of impossibility, supplementary sheets were added to accommodate advertisers.  The price of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I experienced little difficulty in getting up a paying list of customers for the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:.  Nearly every one on whom I called gladly subscribed for the paper, and at the end of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>390</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:each week paid me promptly.  I had scarcely become accustomed to my new vocation, when the situation of book-keeper was tendered to me by the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">News</HI>
149.sgm:<P>In the month of March, 1850, there arrived in the harbor of San Francisco a ship from New Orleans, with an assorted cargo, among which was a second-hand printing office, with some thirty reams of printing-paper.  The type, presses (a card and hand press), paper, ink, etc., were invoiced in New Orleans at $950, but were valued in San Francisco at $15,000, and could have been sold for that amount in coin, as printing material was very scarce, and "sorts" were worth their weight in gold.  Mr. G. K. Fitch, the owner of the printing material, proposed to five of the attaches of the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: --F. C. Ewer, H. S. Warren, J. M. Julian, T. Russell and S. C. Upham--the formation of a copartnership, with a view to the publication of a paper in Sacramento City.  The proposition was accepted articles of agreement executed, and on the 1st day of April, 1850, the initial number of the <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: was issued by Fitch, Upham &amp; Co.  The <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>391</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: was the fifth newspaper published on the Pacific coast, and the first daily out of San Francisco published in California.  Ten days later, the 10th of June, the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm: came out daily.  The <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: was a financial success from the start, but as the gold rolled in, its proprietors rolled out.  Mr. Julian retired before the expiration of the second month, and the business manager a month later, having sold his interest in the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: for $10,000<ANCHOR ID="na-2">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm: to Mr. G. C. Weld, California correspondent of the New York <HI REND="italics">Journal of Commerce</HI>
149.sgm:.  Mr. Weld was a model business man as well as a versatile and graceful writer.  Had he lived, he would have made a shining mark in California journalism.  Being of a delicate and fragile organization, his system was prostrated by the vicissitudes of pioneer life, and within six weeks from the time he became one of the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: he passed from earth to that bourn whence no traveler returns.  The <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:, after the death of Mr. Weld, being without a competent business manager, began to wane.  It was afterward merged into the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm:, another sickly daily at that time; but after the consolidation, the new enterprise was a success.  A year later the <HI REND="italics">Times and Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-2">Three thousand dollars cash, and the notes of the purchaser for the balance.  The notes were not paid.  Mr. Weld's death cancelled them.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>On the 13th of April, two weeks after the advent of the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: in Sacramento City, the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm:, then under the editorial management of Colonel J. E. Lawrence, came out tri-weekly.  Early in the following October, E. Gilbert &amp; Co. disposed of the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
149.sgm: to Messrs. Pickering, Lawrence &amp; Co., the former gentleman assuming the chair of senior editor.  Colonel J. E. Lawrence, the junior <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>392</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:editor and one of the most genial and companionable gentlemen it has ever been my good fortune to meet, arrived in California early in '49, overland, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm: Mexico and Lower California, by mule express.  Soon after the collapse of the <HI REND="italics">Times and Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:, Colonel Lawrence either started or purchased an interest in the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
149.sgm: was the <HI REND="italics">alma mater</HI>
149.sgm:, and Colonel Joe Lawrence the godfather of Bret Harte, Prentice Mulford, Charles Warren Stoddart, Dinsmore, the dramatizer of Mark Twain's " <HI REND="italics">Gilded Age</HI>
149.sgm:," Minnie Myrtle, and a host of lesser lights, whose early lucubrations first appeared in that journal.  Bret Harte was for a short time compositor in the office of the <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
149.sgm:, the situation having been obtained through the intercession of his sister, an occasional contributor, and his first two productions were published anonymously in that journal, while he was working at case.  When the authorship of the sketches became known, the <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
149.sgm: lost an indifferent compositor, but added to its staff of <HI REND="italics">litterateurs</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Steve Massett, "Jeems Pipes of Pipesville," was one of the early birds, having arrived in San Francisco early in '49.  Mark Twain, Bret Harte, Prentice Mulford and Dinsmore arrived later, although it is generally believed by arch&aelig;ologists that Mark Twain started for California immediately after the deluge, but owing to snags in the Mississippi River and scientific researches <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm:, did not actually arrive in California until A. D. 1852.  The first opening that occurred after his arrival in San Francisco was caused by an earthquake.  This event so exasperated Mark, that he immediately laid in a box of pipes, a barrel of smoking tobacco and a few kegs of lager as small stores, and sailed direct for the Sandwich Islands, where for several years he hobnobbed with King Kamehameha, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>393</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Prentice Mulford, after wasting his sweetness fourteen years in California, during which time he was by turns prospector, miner, politician, pedagogue and <HI REND="italics">litterateur</HI>
149.sgm:, quietly folded his tent, and hied himself to "merrie England," where, like a sensible man, he took unto himself a better half, and is now striving to fulfill the scriptural injunction, "Increase and multiply."  Mr. Mulford's letters to the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Evening Bulletin</HI>
149.sgm:, during his sojourn in England, France and Austria, gained for him an enviable reputation, and his " <HI REND="italics">Centennial Notes</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the 16th of March, 1850, Mr. J. White published the first number of the <HI REND="italics">Stockton Times</HI>
149.sgm:, in the city of Stockton, on the San Joaquin River.  The <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
149.sgm: was a weekly paper printed on a cap sheet, in Long Primer type.  H. H. Radcliff soon afterward purchased an interest in the paper, enlarged it and changed its name to the <HI REND="italics">Stockton Times and Tuolumne City Intelligencer</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On June 19th, Mr. J. S. Robb, a native of Philadelphia, and at one time connected with the St. Louis <HI REND="italics">Reveille</HI>
149.sgm:, issued in Stockton the first number of the semi-weekly <HI REND="italics">Stockton Journal</HI>
149.sgm:.</P><P>On June 1st, Foy, Nugent &amp; Co. issued the first number of the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Daily Herald</HI>
149.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
149.sgm: was edited by John Nugent, formerly connect with the <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the 1st of July, the first number of the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
149.sgm: (daily) appeared.  It was published and edited by Messrs. Crane &amp; Rice, and was Whig in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>394</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:politics, being the second political paper in California, the <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm:, then edited by Mr. F. C. Ewer, having, in the preceding January, espoused the Democratic cause.  On August 3d, John H. Gihon &amp; Co. commenced the publication of the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Evening Picayune</HI>
149.sgm:, edited by P. A. Brinsmade.  The <HI REND="italics">Picayune</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The first number of the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
149.sgm: (weekly) was published on July 4th, by J. White &amp; J. G. Marvin.  It was printed on a cap sheet, and in Long Primer type.  The semi-weekly <HI REND="italics">Marysville Herald</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I will here state that to Mr. Edward Connor, formerly of the <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
149.sgm:, is due the credit of having brought the first steam-power printing-press to California.  It was a Napier press, made by R. Hoe &amp; Co., and arrived in May, 1850.  The first paper printed by steam-power in California was the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
149.sgm:.  When the writer left California, in the month of August, 1850, the <HI REND="italics">Alta California, Pacific News, Journal of Commerce, California Courier, Herald</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Evening Picayune</HI>
149.sgm:, of San Francisco, the <HI REND="italics">Transcript and Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm:, of Sacramento City, the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Journal</HI>
149.sgm:, of Stockton, and the <HI REND="italics">Sonora Herald</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Marysville Herald</HI>
149.sgm: were the only newspapers published in that State, and with a single exception--the <HI REND="italics">Oregonian</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Pacific News</HI>
149.sgm: had changed proprietors, and in August, 1850, was edited by General Jonas Winchester, a former associate of Horace Greeley in the <HI REND="italics">New-Yorker</HI>
149.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">Evening Picayune</HI>
149.sgm: was at that time edited by Dr. John H. Gihon, private secretary to Colonel John W. Geary, then Mayor of San Francisco.  The late General John W.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>395</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:Geary was the last <HI REND="italics">Alcalde</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Twenty-six years have wrought wonderful changes in California, as well as along the entire northern Pacific coast.  Old landmarks have become almost entirely obliterated.  San Francisco, with her few dozens of <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Evening Bulletin</HI>
149.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Morning Call</HI>
149.sgm:, partly owned and controlled by Mr. G. K. Fitch, my former associate in the <HI REND="italics">Sacramento Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:, are ably-conducted journals and are said to be the best paying newspaper properties in California.  Mr. Fitch's associates in the <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
149.sgm: are Mr. L. Pickering, formerly one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>396</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:the editors and proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm:, and Mr. J. W. Simonton, agent of the New York "Associated Press," both experienced and able journalists.  The <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
149.sgm: has always been a terror to evil-doers, and Mr. Fitch, the head and front of that journal, has, by his honest, able and judicious management, earned the deserved title of the Horace Greeley of the Pacific Coast--but will never <HI REND="italics">run for President</HI>
149.sgm:.  Few of the journalists connected with the California press in 1849-'50 now reside in the State of their early labors; Fitch and Pickering being the only ones now in working harness.  B. P. Kooser,<ANCHOR ID="na-3">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm: veteran pioneer printer, has recently vacated the sanctum of the Santa Cruz <HI REND="italics">Sentinel</HI>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-3">Deceased since the above was written.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>Colonel Joe Lawrence has retired to the classic shades of Bay City, Long Island, where he presides with dignity over the Society for the " <HI REND="italics">Prevention of Cruelty to Animals</HI>
149.sgm:," nurses that same old meerschaum and luxuriates on cold tea with a stick in it<ANCHOR ID="na-4">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm: Charles Eames returned to Washington, D.C., <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>397</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-4">DEATH OF COLONEL JOSEPH E. LAWRENCE--The telegraph announces the death at Tom's River, N.J., of Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence, of Flushing, Long Island, one of the old newspaper men of this coast.  Colonel Lawrence came to this State in 1849.  In the following year he was employed by E. Gilbert &amp; Co. to edit the <HI REND="italics">Placer Times</HI>
149.sgm:, at Sacramento.  Subsequently he became a partner of Loring Pickering in the publication of the same journal.  In 1851 the <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
149.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Transcript</HI>
149.sgm:, another Sacramento paper, were merged into one, and during the following year the paper was moved to this city.  Colonel Lawrence continued his connection with the <HI REND="italics">Times and Transcript</HI>
149.sgm: till 1854.  After that he was one of the proprietors of the <HI REND="italics">Golden Era</HI>
149.sgm: for a long time.  He filled a position in the Custom-house during the administration of B. F. Washington.  His latter years were spent between this city and New York, where he was highly connected.  For a considerable period he also had a lucrative place in the Custom-house of the latter city.  Colonel Lawrence was one of those genial men who never make an enemy.  In his more youthful days he was remarkable for the neatness of his dress and his personal beauty.  As a newspaper man he took fair rank, though his writings as a general thing were more suited for the literary weekly than the daily newspaper.  They were, for the most part, of the easy-chair, sunshiny sort, which one wishes to read in dressing-gown and slippers.  For the last three or four years of his life Colonel Lawrence had undergone a great change, supposed to have been the result of sunstroke in New York.  He had become careless in his dress and inert, but he never lost his good nature and pleasant manners.  He will long hold a place in the memory of the old members of the profession.  One of his most remarkable traits was his open-handedness.  He was willing to share almost all he had with his friends.  If he had not been so generous he might have been a rich man.  As it was, the residue of a reasonable fortune--some $12,000 or $13,000--he took East for the purchase of an old homestead, for which he always manifested the greatest attachment.-- <HI REND="italics">San Francisco Bulletin, July 15th</HI>
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149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>"CALIFORNIA DAY" AT THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Preliminary meeting in New York--Committee appointed--Rev. Albert Williams addresses the meeting--Programme of exercises--'Forty-niners and other Californians present--Distinguished guests--Addresses by Hon. Rodman M. Price, Generals H. G. Gibson and Joe Hooker, Governor Curtin, General Sutter, Governor Hartranft and Colin M. Boyd--"Song of the Argonauts"--The banquet--Fire! fire!--Telegrams sent to San Francisco.</P>
149.sgm:<P>AT a special meeting of "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA," held at the <HI REND="italics">Sturtevant House</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
149.sgm:, That the members of this Society assemble at the PACIFIC COAST CENTENNIAL HALL, Centennial Grounds, Philadelphia, on the 9th day of September next, the twenty-sixth anniversary of the admission of California into the Union, and that all Californians throughout the country be requested, without further notice, to join with us upon that occasion, in <HI REND="italics">one grand re-union</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
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149.sgm:<P>In compliance with a resolution, the President appointed the following committee to make the necessary arrangements in Philadelphia, for the visit of the Society in September: Messrs. E. F. Burton, Thomas D. Johns, S. L. Merchant, John Gault and W. M. Walton.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The President appointed the following committe to confer with non-member Californians, and ask their cooperation in the re-union at Philadelphia: Messrs. O. H. Pierson, H. B. Hawkins and John A. Godfrey.</P>
149.sgm:<P>During the evening, the Rev. Albert Williams, of San Francisco, Secretary of the Pacific Coast Centennial Committee, addressed the Society, on invitation of the Chair, and gave the details of the building in course of erection at Philadelphia, and stated that it would be ready for occupancy June 1st, and extended the use of the hall to the members of this Society, and all other Californians visiting the Exhibition.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Upon the conclusion of the remarks of Mr. Williams, the President returned to that gentleman the thanks of the Society.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At a subsequent meeting of the Society, the programme on the following page was adopted:</P>
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149.sgm:<P>RE-UNION OF CALIFORNIANS</P>
149.sgm:<P>Under the auspices of</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California,</P>
149.sgm:<P>(HEAD-QUARTERS IN NEW YORK CITY,)</P>
149.sgm:<P>AT THE</P>
149.sgm:<P>PACIFIC COAST CENTENNIAL HALL,</P>
149.sgm:<P>EXHIBITION GROUNDS, PHILADELPHIA,</P>
149.sgm:<P>ON SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 9TH, 1876,</P>
149.sgm:<P>AT ONE O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
149.sgm:<P>(<HI REND="italics">Twenty-Sixth Anniversary of the Admission of California into the Union</HI>
149.sgm:<P>PROGRAMME OF EXERCISES.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1.  INTRODUCTION OF GEN. JOHN A. SUTTER, <HI REND="italics">by Pres't Gibson</HI>
149.sgm:<P>2.  MUSIC--"Hail to the Chief."</P>
149.sgm:<P>3.  PRAYER, <HI REND="italics">by Rev. Dr. Allen</HI>
149.sgm:<P>4.  ADDRESS OF WELCOME, <HI REND="italics">by General H. G. Gibson, U.S.A</HI>
149.sgm:<P>5.  MUSIC--"Centennial Ode."<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Geibel</HI>
149.sgm:<P>6.  READING OF LETTERS, <HI REND="italics">by the Secretary of the Society</HI>
149.sgm:<P>7.  MUSIC--"O California!"</P>
149.sgm:<P>8.  ADDRESS, <HI REND="italics">by Hon. Rodman M Price, ex-Governor of New Jersey</HI>
149.sgm:<P>9.  MUSIC--"Star Spangled Banner."</P>
149.sgm:<P>10.  "SONG OF THE ARGONAUTS; OR DAYS OF '49," Composed expressly for this occasion by S. C. UPHAM, Esq., of Philadelphia.  Solo by Mr. GEORGE A. CONLY, Basso of the Kellogg Opera Troupe.  The audience will please join in the chorus.</P>
149.sgm:<P>11.  MUSIC--"Potpourri.  Operatic Airs."</P>
149.sgm:<P>BANQUET, <HI REND="italics">at Globe Hotel</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Music by McClurg's Cornet Band.  Selections of Music by the Band from 12 o'clock, noon, until the commencement of the exercises.  Also appropriate Music on the "Centennial Chimes," by Professor WIDDOWS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Saturday, September 9th, was a charming autumn day, and at one o'clock, P.M., and audience of seven hundred persons had assembled in the "PACIFIC COAST CENTENNIAL HALL."  The assemblage was composed mainly of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PACIFIC COAST CENTENNIAL HALL.  <HI REND="italics">Gordon P. Commings, Architect.</HI>
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149.sgm:former residents of the Pacific slope; many of the number being ladies, who heartily enjoyed the festive occasion.  Two large and beautiful American flags of California silk, belonging to Mr. Neuman, of that State, arched the space behind the speakers' platform, and strips of bunting around the entire walls and pillars decorated the hall, while McClurg's Cornet Band enlivened the intervals between the speeches, with choice selections of music.  Placards with appropriate mottoes also adorned the walls.  A large and artistically-executed seal of the Eureka State, composed entirely of native woods, and loaned for the occasion by Mr. J. R. Scupham, occupied a prominent position on the speakers' stand.  On the platform were seated some half-dozen gentlemen, whose personal history had been more or less identified with the exciting days of the early gold discoveries in the modern <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. Rodman M. Price, ex-Governor of New Jersey, who was a participant with Commodore Sloat in the raising of the American flag at Monterey, California, on July 7th, 1846; Colin M. Boyd, President of the "Territorial Pioneers of California;" B. P. Kooser, of Santa Cruz, California, one of the Centennial Commissioners from that State, who, in 1847, was engaged as pressman and printer on the <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
149.sgm:, at Monterey, the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
149.sgm: newspaper printed in California; Major-General Joseph Hooker, U.S.A., General H. Gates Gibson, U.S.A., John Sickels, Francis D. Clark and wife, General Thomas D. Johns, D. M. Chauncey, S. L. Merchant, William M. Walton, O. H. Pierson, H. M. Newhall, E. F. Burton, John H. Gardiner and wife, Mrs. Dr. Chas. Blake, William J. Curtis, James E. Nuttmann, Gordon P. Cummings, John H. Trowbridge, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>The exercises commenced at one o'clock, P.M., with a fervent and appropriate prayer, by the Rev. Dr. Allen, of the Old Pine Street Church, who had recently returned from a trip to California.  General Sutter was then introduced to the audience by President Gibson, in the following appropriate speech:</P>
149.sgm:<P>FELLOW-CALIFORNIANS, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:--In accordance with the announcement just made by the Chairman of the Committe of Arrangements for this re-union, I have the pleasure and honor of introducing to you, as President of the day, General John A. Sutter, our grand old patriarch and noble chieftain, whom we all delight to honor; whose noble deeds and golden virtues, amid the stirring incidents and enchanting scenes of his pastoral life in the Golden Land, and in the exciting events of his discovery and development of her rich <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
149.sgm:, have made his name as illustrious in history as it is grateful in our hearts.  You will rejoice with me that God has given him length of days, and that he is enabled to join with us to-day, in the full communion of body and spirit, in the commemoration of his proud achievements, and the brilliant results--as wonderful as those from the touch of the magical lamp of Aladdin--that sprang from his grand discovery. You will join with me in the fervent prayer, that God will give him still greater length of days, and that the sunset of his life may be as serene and beautiful, as its meridian was glorious with full-orbed splendor, whose <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Light <HI REND="italics">still</HI>
149.sgm: lingers' round us yet,<LB>Bright, radiant, blest."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>You will also unite with me to-day in the earnest hope that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:the justly-merited and long-deferred reward for his inestimable services to the whole country, may soon cease to be a reproach upon the justice, gratitude and magnanimity of the Republic; that it may yet be said, to the honor of our country, as of the warrior, renowned in Spanish history and song:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"After high deeds not left untold<LB>In the stern warfare, which of old<LB>'Twas his to share,<LB>Such noble leagues he made, that more<LB>And fairer regions than before,<LB>His guerdon were."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>And now, General Sutter, veteran pioneer and noblest of men,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Let <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
149.sgm: thy noble spirit grieve,<LB>Its life of glorious fame to leave<LB>On earth below;"<LB></HI>
149.sgm: for, though the official and substantial recognition of thy grand services and grander life may be withheld, through the proverbial ingratitude of republics, we, thy clansmen and thy children, will never withhold from thee the just meed and loyal tribute of our grateful affection and honor; and, better still,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"In Heaven thou shalt receive, at length,<LB>The guerdon of thine early strength<LB>And <HI REND="italics">generous</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On taking the chair, General Sutter made a few remarks, during which he said he felt proud of the honor conferred on him, and was glad his life had been spared him to meet his early California associates on the occasion of the twenty-sixth anniversary of the admission of California into the Union, and particularly at the Centennial Celebration of the Independence of the United States.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General H. Gates Gibson, President of the "Associated Pioneers," then delivered the following eloquent address of welcome, which was rapturously applauded:</P>
149.sgm:<P>FELLOW-CALIFORNIANS, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>On this natal day of California, we have come with proud and grateful hearts to exultingly sing with you our p&aelig;ans of praise and honor to the Golden State, and to join in the patriotic rejoicings of our countrymen over this grand Centennial Jubilee of the Republic, on this historic spot whence the glad tidings went forth: "Proclaim liberty throughout the land to all the inhabitants thereof."</P>
149.sgm:<P>The distinguished orator, who will address you to-day will, no doubt, do full justice to the mighty thoughts inspired by the occasion and your presence; and, though they may not <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"suggest<LB>Life's endless toil and endeavor,"<LB></HI>
149.sgm: yet they teach an invaluable lesson to those who may come after us, demonstrating by example, as rich and beautiful as "apples of gold in pictures of silver," the truth of the grand apothegm, that <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"In the lexicon of youth, which Fate reserves<LB>For a bright manhood, there is no such word<LB>As-- <HI REND="italics">fail</HI>
149.sgm:<P>But, enticing as may be the theme of California, and the story of her sterling Pioneers, I must not encroach upon the province of your orator, or trespass upon your indulgence beyond the duty incumbent upon me as President of the Society; and, if tempted beyond it, your own hearts will plead for me:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The love he bore to <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
149.sgm: was at fault;"<LB></HI>
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149.sgm:<P>The scenes and incidents of our California life <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"When fond recollection presents them to view,"<LB></HI>
149.sgm:<P>But in the gladness of our welcome to the coming guest from her golden shores, and in our grateful tribute of affection to our beautiful Golden Land, we must not forget that "the place whereon thou standest is holy ground"--sacred to the birth of a nation, and hallowed as the sanctuary of the tabernacle of the ark of the covenant--our matchless Constitution of government; the Mecca of Freedom to which we have, this day, made our pilgrimage to draw, at the altars our fathers built, fresh and pure inspirations of loyalty and devotion to our whole country.  One hundred years ago, the Continental Congress here uttered the bold Declaration which severed our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:connection with the mother country and made us a nation; and, building better than they knew, left us a goodly heritage of "Virtue, Liberty and Independence;" bequeathed us a noble legacy of the most perfect league and covenant of union, that the wisdom of man ever devised.  If we fail to guard, with jealous care, the security and purity of the one, or to protect from the hands of the spoiler the majestic fabric of the other, the blame will lie with us, not with the fathers of the Republic.  Then <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Guard we but our own hearts; with constant view<LB>To ancient morals, ancient manners true,<LB>True to the manlier virtues such as nerved<LB>Our fathers' breasts: then this proud land preserved<LB>For many a rugged age."<LB>"Land of the brave, athwart whose gloomy night<LB>Breaks the bright dawn and harbinger of light,<LB>May glory now efface each blot of shame,<LB>May freedom's torch e'er light thy path to fame;<LB>May Christian truth <HI REND="italics">in this thy sacred birth</HI>
149.sgm:<LB>Add strength to empire, give to wisdom worth,<LB>And with the rich-fraught hopes of coming years<LB>Inspire thy triumphs while it dries thy tears."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The age of California as a State, is but one-fourth of that of the Republic as a nation, and when the English colonies of the Atlantic were thriving settlements, not even the bold rover of the Spanish main and of seas unknown had "spied out the land and found that it was good;" yet she has "fretted her brief hour upon the stage" of history to the grand purpose and effect of the advancement of the greatness and richness of the whole country.  And her pioneers are here to-day to offer, in the true Californian spirit of old, their devout and filial homage to the fathers of the Union, whose precious inheritance was borne by them, with the glorious ensign of the Republic, to the far distant shores of the Pacific.  And, in grateful return, and in triumphant pride, it has been the mission and glory of California <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"To scatter plenty o'er a smiling land<LB>And read her history in a nation's eyes."</HI>
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149.sgm:<P>For out of her opulence and abundance from soil, and rock, and stream, "wealth gilded our cities, commerce crowded our shores," and but for our late suicidal strife, the world would have witnessed, as predicted by President Polk, the permanent transfer of the control of its monetary concerns from London to New York.  And if the treasures and products which California poured with bounteous hand into the coffers and granaries of the nation have been wasted through misrule, passion and folly, you, Pioneers of the Golden Land, have the proud satisfaction of knowing that in all you have done to promote the progress and prosperity of your country, you have nobly illustrated the force and spirit of the words of the poet:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Act <HI REND="italics">well</HI>
149.sgm: your part, for there all <HI REND="italics">honor</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of General Gibson's address of welcome, Mr. Francis D. Clark, Secretary of the "Associated Pioneers," followed with the reading of letters from invited guests unable to be present.  These were from President Grant, General Sherman, and from Emory L. Willard and Colonel A. C. Bradford, Secretaries respectively of "The Territorial Pioneers of California," at San Francisco, and the parent organization known as the "Society of California Pioneers," and Major-General Joseph W. Revere, of Morristown, N. J., who raised the first American flag on the Bay of San Francisco, at Sonoma, and took possession of that district in the name of the United States, on July 9th, 1846.  Letters were also read from Major-General James A. Hardie, who went to California as major of Colonel Stevenson's regiment; Hon. Philip A. Roach, ex-President of the "California Pioneers," and Bayard Taylor.  The last-named gentleman, referring to General Sutter, stated that he had not seen him since he saw him in Monterey, in 1849, when he waltzed with him at the ball given at the close of the Constitutional Convention.</P>
149.sgm:<P>After the playing of "O California" by the band, the orator of the day, ex-Governor Rodman M. Price, of New <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>FELLOW-CALIFORNIANS, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:--I greet you with the love and memories of our early associations.  The retrospect of the occupation, settlement and progress of California for the past thirty years is so wonderful a history that it would seem to verify the poet's aphorism: "'Tis strange--but true; for truth is always strange--stranger than fiction."</P>
149.sgm:<P>The growth of California in so short a period of time has been truly marvelous.  It is eminently proper that so important an event in the development of our country, to which California and our territory on the Pacific slope of the continent has contributed so abundantly, should be commemorated on these grounds dedicated to the exhibition of our national advancement for the past century in resources and power.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The re-union of those associated in the early events of the acquisition, settlement and sudden development of the wealth of California on this the twenty-sixth anniversary of its admission into the Union as the thirty-first State of the Republic, is to us most gratifying and auspicious.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In looking back and contrasting the condition of the Territory when first acquired by the United States, and its present condition, it seems as if the voice of the Creator, as in the beginning, again called darkness into light, and is an event cherished alike in its proud significance by the citizens of the Atlantic and Pacific States.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Scarcely had the echo of our victorious guns at Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma, on the Rio Grande, reached the silent shores of the Pacific Ocean, when a small squadron of our naval vessels, under the command of Commodore John D. Sloat, anchored before Monterey, the Mexican capital of Upper California, and demanded a surrender of the place, which being refused, a force was landed on the 7th of July, 1846, which took possession, raised the American flag, and proclaimed the occupation of California by the United States, just in time to prevent its falling into the lap of England, whose ambition greatly coveted its possession.</P>
149.sgm:<P>It was a bold act for the American commodore, with so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>It was held, but not without a severe struggle, with the assistance of that gallant, hardy and brave battalion of the early settlers of California, commanded by General John C. Fremont, whose early exploration and military services under the indomitable Commodore Stockton, the successor of Sloat, contributed largely toward sustaining our flag during the war.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Immediately after the announcement had gone forth to the world, in 1848, that a treaty of peace had been made between the United States and Mexico, by which Upper California was ceded to our Government, James W. Marshall, a laboring man, discovered gold on the lands of Captain Sutter, on the American River.  The news of this discovery spread rapidly, and the immense immigration in 1849 at once followed.  A rush to California from all parts of the world soon changed that pastoral country into a broad scene of active commercial and mining life.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The mountain gulches in the wild Sierra Nevada, where the white man had never been, was soon teeming with ardent seekers for the golden treasure.  The country whose currency had been hides was soon overflowing with gold-dust.  The first discoveries were in placer diggings, but soon thereafter the auriferous veins of quartz were uncovered, and the skilled work of practical miners and the application of machinery followed.  The indolent <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The production of gold was large during 1849, and the prices paid for provisions were enormous, flour selling as high as $60 a barrel at San Francisco, and $100 at the mines.  The emigrants had to depend entirely upon a foreign supply of bread-stuffs, nor was it then believed it would ever be otherwise.</P>
149.sgm:<P>It seems strange, indeed, that the soil supposed to be barren has proved the richest and most fertile of all the States, so that to-day, although its production of gold and silver is large, the value of its grain productions is much larger.  Another mistake was the under-estimate of arable land, and the supposed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>The liberal character of the Constitution made for the State has had great influence upon its prosperity.  Especially the rejection of slavery and involuntary servitude, which was carried by Southern men in the convention, though labor commanded higher wages than ever known before.  The giving to women the right to hold separate property, both real and personal, which they had acquired either before or after marriage, by gift, devise or descent, was also a marked instance of progress.  The prohibition of moneyed corporations from receiving special chartered rights was an important feature.</P>
149.sgm:<P>It seems a dream, looking back through the vista of thirty years, and contrasting that rude and unsettled country with the present condition of the rich and thriving State of California.  We may almost claim a miracle has been performed, so great is the transformation.  When I remember to have shot wild game in that early day on the site of the present business portion of the city of San Francisco, and on the very spot where the magnificent Palace Hotel has arisen in its grand proportions, I am deeply impressed by the rapid march of civilization, wealth and refinement; and when we reflect that San Francisco now ranks as the third commercial city of the Union, with a population of more than a quarter of a million, while the State is estimated at a million, and the Pacific slope at a million and a half of people, it is difficult to realize the change.  The importance and value of its acquisition cannot be fully estimated.  Its influence has been by far the greatest since the birth of the nation, not even excepting the purchase of Louisiana from France.  Imagination could not have foreseen its importance, nor can we now foretell its future.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The climate of California, extending with its 10&deg; of latitude along the Pacific coast between 114&deg; and 124&deg; west longitude, is much milder, even at high elevations, than that of the same latitude on the Atlantic.  In climate, California is as favored as in gold, excluding the extremes of the torrid and frigid zones.  The physical character of her climate no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>In localities, not more than five miles distant from each other, the varieties of fruit, with the same care and culture, will vary from fifteen to twenty days in ripening.</P>
149.sgm:<P>There is no fruit, grain or vegetable, native to any clime, save a few tropical plants, that California does not produce in the highest state of excellence and in the greatest abundance.  Some of its valleys are said to be, by those of extensive travel and thorough observation, for their extent, beauty and fertility, unsurpassed on the globe.  The sheltered valleys along the coast enjoy a delicious climate.  In any other country ranging through 10&deg; of latitude, the difference of temperature would be considerable, but in California this difference is greatly increased by the peculiarities of its surface.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The climate of California has thus been dwelt upon as having a great influence upon the marvelous fertility of the soil, both as to variety, quantity and size of its products.  Figs, dates, oranges, olives and bananas flourish with the peach, pear, apple and apricot.  Wheat, barley and oats yield largely.  Tobacco, cotton, rice, tea and coffee are all cultivated successfully, and no one can doubt for a moment, who has any intelligence upon the subject, that California is destined in the early future to produce more and better grapes, raisins and wine than any other district of equal extent on which the sun ever shone.  Indeed, all the productions of the earth seem to flourish within her boundary.  It is a curious contemplation to speculate what influence her temperature, so uniform, and climate, so salubrious, are to have upon the mental and physical growth of man in the future.  One-quarter more time can be given to labor and study, with less mental or bodily fatigue, than on the Atlantic, so we may reasonably look there for the highest mental and physical development.  There are no real vicissitudes of climate, nothing enervating in temperature, and it is a land supplying every want and furnishing every luxury.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>Twenty-five years ago a stream of gold went out in payment for breadstuffs and manufactured goods.  To-day it is reversed--her production and export of wheat in value is greater annually than the product of her gold, in which, however, she still holds the first rank.  She is now manufacturing her articles of necessity, and is self-sustaining, with all the elements of a great empire.  There is not a want, there is not a luxury, there is not a creature comfort that cannot be supplied within her borders.  There is not an element of national power, wealth or greatness, but what her hills and valleys produce.</P>
149.sgm:<P>If we may be permitted to look perspectively into the future, and take the growth of California for the past thirty years as a base for her future growth, what, we may ask, is to be the population and wealth on her Centennial anniversary?  Even now, it is believed by many, that California offers larger inducements for settlement, and promises greater reward for labor and capital than at any time during her history.</P>
149.sgm:<P>We must not forget in tracing the events of her progress that she has constructed and completed 2,000 miles of railroad, which, in connection with her steamship line to Japan and China, will open up for her a great future in trade and commerce.</P>
149.sgm:<P>It is a singular reflection to the early pioneers, to know that the products of China are arriving almost daily at the Atlantic sea-ports, by the way of San Francisco and the Pacific railroad.  Who of us could have ever expected that a passenger car carrying the mail could pass from New York to San Francisco in the incredibly short time of eighty-eight hours?</P>
149.sgm:<P>Year after year a continual stream of the precious metals, having its source in the hills and mountains of that coast, has been poured abroad into the channels of trade and commerce.  In all, no less a sum than $1,763,000,000.  Added to this, wheat has been produced worth $360,000,000; wool, worth $63,000,000; quicksilver, $20,000,000; wine, $20,000,000; coal, $23,000,000; lumber, 70,000,000, with other items a grand total of $2,336,000,000.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Her sister State, Nevada, will take the first rank in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>415</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>We are glad to say that in the rapid progress and growth of California, the church, the school and the press have advanced as rapidly in their various spheres of usefulness as the most enlightened Christian people could desire.</P>
149.sgm:<P>When we look over the list of our early associates in California, we can point to men eminent and distinguished in all the walks of life.  The very air of California seems to stimulate an ambition to excel, quicken and enlarge the mind and to make it more comprehensive, clear and tenacious of its purpose.  Generals Grant, Sherman, Hooker, Kearney, Fremont, Gibson, Mason, Riley and many others are graduates of California; as also are Sloat, Stockton, Mervine, Montgomery, DuPont, Shubrick, Jones, Revere, Beale and Paterson, of the navy.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mercantile life was represented by men of the strictest integrity, sound business principles, enterprising, liberal and conservative, inspiring confidence and maintaining honest dealing at a time when men trusted each other implicitly; individual honor was at stake, and there was no breach of trust.  The legal and medical professions were distinguished for their attainments, ability and thorough, sound professional acquirements.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Associates, we will not separate without paying a fitting tribute of respect to the parent society of pioneers, organized "to cultivate the social virtues of its members, to collect and preserve information connected with the early settlement and conquest of California, and to perpetuate the memory of those whose sagacity, enterprise and love of independence induced them to settle in the wilderness and become the germ of a new State."  For thirty years we have cherished, almost as brothers, the ties of regard and friendship that have bound us together as pioneers of the west coast; and now, after a brief re-union, we are about to part.  Undoubtedly to some of us this friendly meeting will be our last, but I am sure I express the common sentiment of all when I say that life has had for me no more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>416</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>For you, Californians, who now enjoy the privilege and the blessings of a residence in the Golden State, let me say in your behalf:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Great God, we thank thee for this home--<LB>This bounteous birth-land of the free;<LB>Where wanderers from afar may come<LB>And breathe the air of liberty.<LB>Still may her flowers untrampled spring,<LB>Her harvests wave, her cities rise;<LB>And yet till Time shall fold his wing,<LB>Remain Earth's loveliest paradise."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The conclusion of the oration was followed by the "SONG OF THE ARGONAUTS, OR, THE DAYS OF 'FORTY-NINE," written expressly for the occasion by Samuel C. Upham, and sung by Mr. George A. Conly, <HI REND="italics">basso</HI>
149.sgm:<P>AIR-- <HI REND="italics">Auld Lang Syne</HI>
149.sgm:.<HI REND="blockindent">We are assembled here to-day--<LB>A band of Pioneers,<LB>To celebrate with grateful hearts,<LB>Events of by-gone years:<LB>We come from hill and valley fair,<LB>Sierras capped with snow--<LB>With kindly words we greet you now,<LB>Dear friends of long ago.  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm: --Oh, cherished be for evermore,<LB>The days of auld lang syne,<LB>Those golden days--remembered days--<LB>The days of 'Forty-nine.<LB>Fresh laurel-wreaths we bring to-day,<LB>To crown the Patriarch,<ANCHOR ID="na-5">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>417</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Whose hand unlocked the golden ore,<LB>In gulch and can&tilde;on dark.<LB>Old Pioneer! thy name we still<LB>In all our hearts enshrine;<LB>God's blessing rest upon thy head,<LB>Dear friend of auld lang syne!  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-5">General John A. Sutter, aged 74 years.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">We are a band of Argonauts,<LB>Erst from Eureka State,<LB>By some the golden fleece was found,<LB>Whilst others mourned their fate.<LB>We digged in gulch and delved in mine,<LB>From morn till setting sun,<LB>With aching limbs and moistened brows--<LB>But perseverance won.  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm: --Oh, cherished be for evermore, etc.<LB>No maiden's voice, with cheering words,<LB>Was heard in mine or camp--<LB>The miner's food was grizzly meat,<LB>And knot of pine his lamp.<LB>But changes great have taken place,<LB>Since days of 'Forty-nine,<LB>The miner now in comfort dwells,<LB>And kneels at woman's shrine.  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm: Oh, cherished be for evermore, etc.<LB>Hillside, ravine and tule&acute; marsh<LB>Now blossom as the rose,<LB>And 'round Diablo's verdant base,<LB>The crystal streamlet flows.<LB>Now glory be to God on high!<LB>Let this our p&aelig;an be-- <HI REND="italics">And peace on earth, good-will to man,</HI>
149.sgm:<LB>Our prayer, O God, to Thee!  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>418</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>After the rendering of a <HI REND="italics">Potpourri</HI>
149.sgm:<P>LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:--If you can tell me why I am on this platform, I wish you would.  [Laughter.] I don't want to be placed in a ridiculous position, as I always am when I attempt to make a speech.  I am not going to make the attempt, however.  You have heard talking, and good talking; and if you want anybody to talk, here is ex-Governor Curtin--he will talk to you by the yard, and he will talk well, too.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A series of cheers, loud calls for "Curtin," and the introduction of ex-Governor Curtin by the Chairman as "the great War Governor of Pennsylvania," prepared the audience for another extempore speech.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Expressing his obligations to General Hooker for the complimentary reference to himself, and adding that his speech was not on the programme, the Governor said he had come as a spectator to look into the faces of the men who settled California and conquered the Pacific coast; but if anything could inspire a man to speak, it was the present occasion.  In heathen mythology, Jason went to hunt the <HI REND="italics">golden fleece</HI>
149.sgm:, and this had been celebrated in song and classic poetry, and handed down through mysterious and uncertain history.  Whether it was fact or fable, is not known, but a fact which is well known, is that an enterprising man left his free home in the Alps, and passing out to the Pacific coast, found in the tail-race of a saw-mill the glittering metal which has made California what it is today.  The discovery has created new States, made marvelous changes in the commerce of the world and enabled the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>419</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Colin M. Boyd, of San Francisco, President of the "TERRITORIAL PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA," closed the oratory with an expression to the audience of the greetings of their associates in California, whom he had left a week before.  He said the day was being generally celebrated by the Pioneer Societies in California, and that its members felt that, though separated from them by a continent, the Pioneers of the East were to-day identified with them as thoroughly as they were in 'Forty-nine.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At four o'clock, P.M., some four hundred ladies and gentlemen, with many guests of the Society, partook of a banquet at the Globe Hotel, under the management of that prince of caterers, Mr. John Rice.  A sudden alarm, caused by a destructive conflagration in the immediate neighborhood, at half-past four o'clock, and which for a short time threatened the destruction of the hotel, caused a stampede among the guests and occasioned an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>420</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>FELLOW-CALIFORNIANS, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:--In the fullness of our joy at the success of the day, and after refreshing the inner man from the abundance provided for our delectation and sustenance by our goodly Boniface in this goodly city of Philadelphia, let us with merry hearts making cheerful countenances, hold sweet converse together about our beautiful and beloved California.  We have been delighted to-day by the glowing recital of her glories and her triumphs, and by the well-told story of the proud achievements of her sturdy Pioneers, reminding us, if we needed any reminder, that in the acquisition and development of her opulent regions, and in the foundation of a noble State-- <HI REND="italics">quorum pars magna fui</HI>
149.sgm: --each one of us contributed according to his opportunity, whether the widow's mite, or the largest measure of effort, influence and ability.  Our hearts have been gladdened, too, to-day, by the presence of so many of the sons of the Golden State--her Pioneers of ancient days, and citizens of later years, as well as her exiles in the East, but still her children; for, she claims that "no divorce can separate a mother from her son."  And, above all, while <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Memory blends with the twilight charm,<LB>And bears us back to other days,"<LB></HI>
149.sgm: and.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Hand in hand as friends we wander<LB>Down the golden aisles of the long-ago,"<LB></HI>
149.sgm: we thank God that He has blessed to us the golden richness of her associations, and the diamond roughness of her experiences.  We have not "gathered grapes of thorns, or figs of thistles," for the fruits of our experience have come from no barren soil or unnatural growth.  And amid the richest and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>421</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:best of God's gifts to man in her lovely clime, we have found no fruit to "turn like Dead-sea fruit to ashes on the lip," but only that which is delicious and fragrant in remembrance.  The magic glass of memory casts only "rare and roseate shadows" from her varied scenes of the past, and the same rich hue, the same <HI REND="italics">couleur de rose</HI>
149.sgm:, the same halo of enchantment which led us far away from home and kindred and friends in years gone by, still lingers around the <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
149.sgm: of our youth.  And strong, vivid and charming as the scenes of our childhood, when recalled, as <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"the musical clink<LB>Of the ice on your wine-goblet's brink<LB>A chord of my memory awoke.<LB>"And I stood in the pasture-field where,<LB>Many summers ago, I had stood,<LB>And I heard in that sound, I declare,<LB>The clinking of bells on the air<LB>Of the cows coming home from the wood.<LB>"Then the apple-blossoms shook on the hill;<LB>And the mullein-stalks tilted each lance;<LB>And the sun behind Rapalve's mill<LB>Was my uttermost west, and could thrill,<LB>Like the <HI REND="italics">Ultima Thule</HI>
149.sgm:<P>With so many pleasing memories and richly-instructive experiences of the Golden Land, then our <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>--"uttermost west that could thrill,<LB>Like the <HI REND="italics">Ultima Thule</HI>
149.sgm: of Romance,"<LB></HI>
149.sgm: in which "our youth was nurtured and sustained," though perhaps not always with a kindly hand, is it any wonder that our pulses quicken and our hearts throb with pleasurable emotion on these occasions, and that "when two or three are gathered together in <HI REND="italics">her</HI>
149.sgm: name," then we feel her benign spirit is "in the midst of them."  Until the muffled drum within us shall cease to beat, we can never become cold or callous to these inspiring feelings and impressions, keenly felt alike by the ancient Pioneer, whose name is a synonym for all that is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>420</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>422</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:noble, "lovely, and of good report;" by "the toilers of the sea" to her golden shores, who <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Each took a horn in homage to the Horn;"<LB></HI>
149.sgm: by the imperiled and delayed voyager by the Isthmus route, or the way-worn traveler of the dreary plains and forbidding mountains; by the seekers for the rich ore reposing in her bosom; by those who "tickled her soil with a hoe and made it laugh with a harvest," or quaffed the nectar of the rich juices of her vintage,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Whose sweet perfume fills all the room<LB>With a benison on the Giver;"<LB></HI>
149.sgm:<P>I will not detain you by repeating the story of her glory and success, or of the blessings and benefits flowing in richest streams of ever-widening channels throughout the whole Union--resulting from the annexation of California, for it is more than a thrice-told tale--and of which, I trust, you will never weary.  But in the radiant light of the past, it requires no <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"sunset of life--giving mystical lore,"<LB></HI>
149.sgm: or vision of the prophet to predict that yet <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"High on his rock shall California's genius stand,<LB>Scatter the crowded hosts and vindicate the land;"<LB></HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>423</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Brief remarks were also made by General Hooker, Joaquin Miller, poet of the Sierras, and Colonel Charles N. Pine, editor of the Philadelphia <HI REND="italics">Day</HI>
149.sgm:.  The audience having tendered their thanks to Mr. S. C. Upham, for his contribution of " <HI REND="italics">The Song of the Argonauts</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Major John S. Stevenson, manager of the "PACIFIC COAST CENTENNIAL HALL," and his assistant, Mr. A. D. Smith, rendered efficient aid during the day.  Thus ended " <HI REND="italics">California Day</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Before the close of the exercises at the Centennial Grounds, the following telegrams were sent to California:</P>
149.sgm:<P>PHILADELPHIA, Sept. 9th, 1876.</P>
149.sgm:<P>TO JOHN C. BURCH, First Vice-President, <HI REND="italics">Platt's Hall</HI>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sec'y Associated Pioneers</HI>
149.sgm:<P>PHILADELPHIA, PA., Sept. 9th, 1876.</P>
149.sgm:<P>TO THE TERRITORIAL PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA, <HI REND="italics">Platt's Hall</HI>
149.sgm:<P>COLIN M. BOYD,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>424</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>SECOND ANNUAL RE-UNION AND BANQUET OF <LB>"THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL <LB>DAYS OF CALIFORNIA."</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Committee of Arrangements--Report of Secretary and Treasurer Clark--Election of officers--The banquet--President Gibson's address--Addresses by General Thomas D. Johns, Joseph S. Spinney, Clark Bell, Colonel James M. Turner, Samuel C. Upham and Colonel John A. Godfrey.</P>
149.sgm:<P>THE Second Annual Re-union and Banquet of "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA," was held at the Sturtevant House, New York, on the evening of the 18th of January, 1877, being the twenty-ninth anniversary of the discovery of gold at Sutter's saw-mill, at Coloma, California.  The different committees were composed of the following gentlemen, members of the Society:</P>
149.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF ARRANGEMENTS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. H. G. GIBSON, U.S.A.,<HSEP>HON. C. K. GARRISON,</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. C. S. MERCHANT, U.S.A.,<HSEP>GEORGE HOWES,</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. JOSEPH HOOKER, U.S.A.,<HSEP>GEORGE F. SNIFFEN,</P>
149.sgm:<P>COMMANDER RICH'D W. MEADE, U.S.N.,<HSEP>JAMES A. SPERRY,</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN LAIMBEER,<HSEP>JEREMIAH SHERWOOD,</P>
149.sgm:<P>EDWARD F. BURTON,<HSEP>JOHN GAULT,</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. THOS. D. JOHNS, <HI REND="italics">Chairman</HI>
149.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE ON INVITATION.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN SICKELS,<HSEP>JOSEPH S. SPINNEY,</P>
149.sgm:<P>GILMOR MEREDITH,<HSEP>CHARLES R. THOMPSON,</P>
149.sgm:<P>EDWIN C. KEMBLE,<HSEP>CORNELIUS LYDECKER,</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN G. HODGE,<HSEP>GEN. JOHN S. ELLIS.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>425</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>RECEPTION COMMITTEE.</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. JAMES F. CURTIS,<HSEP>GEN. F. E. PINTO,</P>
149.sgm:<P>EDGAR W. CROWELL,<HSEP>WM. C. ANNAN,</P>
149.sgm:<P>H. B. HAWKINS,<HSEP>JAMES H. BUTLER,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLIAM M. WALTON,<HSEP>S. L. MERCHANT,</P>
149.sgm:<P>CHAS. W. SCHUMANN,<HSEP>EDWARD R. ANTHONY.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE ON TOASTS AND MUSIC.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COL. JOHN A. GODFREY,<HSEP>R. R. GRIFFITH, JR.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>HON. R. II. McKUNE,<HSEP>JOHN J. HAGER,</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOSEPH M. PRAY,<HSEP>A. T. GOODELL.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE ON DECORATIONS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>OLIVER H. PIERSON,<HSEP>COL. JAMES E. NUTTMAN,</P>
149.sgm:<P>BENJ. W. JENNESS,<HSEP>MAJOR RUSSELL MYERS,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLIAM H. ROGERS,<HSEP>JOHN WOLFE.</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. H. G. GIBSON, U.S.A., <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN SICKELS, <HI REND="italics">Vice-President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK, <HI REND="italics">Secretary and Treasurer</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Previous to the banquet, Mr. Francis D. Clark, Secretary and Treasurer, read his report of the work of both offices for the year just closed.  An election for officers for the year 1877 then took place, when the following gentlemen were re-elected:</P>
149.sgm:<P>GENERAL H. G. GIBSON, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>COLONEL JOHN SICKELS, <HI REND="italics">Vice-President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>MR. FRANCIS D. CLARK, <HI REND="italics">Secretary and Treasurer</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At the close of the meeting, the Pioneers and their guests repaired to the banquet-room, which was handsomely decorated with flags and streamers, prominent among which was the "Pioneer Bear Flag."  Among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>426</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:mottoes and devices on the walls were:  "Monterey, July 7th, 1846;"  "The Bear Flagmen of 1846;"  "The Horn, around in 180 Days;"  "Sloat, Stockton, Shubrick;"  "The Exchanges of '49--El Dorado, Bella Union, Parker House;"  "The Fastest Ship, Young America--The Largest Ship, Three Brothers;"  "The Isthmus, across, by Bungo and Mule;"  "The First American Newspaper in California--The <HI REND="italics">Californian</HI>
149.sgm:."  The banquet was gotten up by the Messrs. Leland, in their inimitable style, and among the characteristic dishes were: "Lobster Salad, <HI REND="italics">a la</HI>
149.sgm: San Francisco;"  "Pork and Beans, <HI REND="italics">a la</HI>
149.sgm: '49", and "Roast California Quail, <HI REND="italics">a la</HI>
149.sgm:<P>FELLOW-CALIFORNIANS:--This greeting of mine to-night comes with mingled feelings of pleasure and surprise, inasmuch as I had abandoned all hope of participating with you in this Annual Re-union and Banquet of the Society.  Though, perhaps, among you I ought to feel like Macgregor on his native heath, full of the spirit aroused by familiar scenes and faces, yet I must confess, from the effect of various cares and duties, to some degree of unfitness for the occasion.  "Though crowding thoughts distract the lab'ring brain," and filled though the heart may be with inspiring and delightful memories, even of the scenes and associations of our California life, "the thoughts that breathe and words that burn," do not always readily <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>427</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>A few words before I close, and I utter them in no spirit of party feeling or prejudice, but as "the words of truth and soberness;" I have come to you to-night from the sorely-stricken State of South Carolina, many of whose citizens were and are of our near or full brotherhood, who, either as sons of the soil of the Southern Palmetto stood shoulder to shoulder with the sons of the soil of the Northern Oak, in the brilliant war, which gave to the Union the treasures of California; or with us <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Digged in gulch and delved in mine,<LB>From morn till setting sun,"<LB></HI>
149.sgm: in that land of beauty and of gold; whose hearts are yet warm <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>428</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:with the sunny memories of their California life and experiences, and whose hands ever meet in manly, cordial grasp, the friends and comrades of the <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Golden days, remembered days,<LB>The days of'Forty-nine."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>In the evil days which have come upon them, in their sore trial, and in their fiery furnace of affliction--be it from their sins or be it from ours--we may not be able to give them aid and comfort beyond the expression of our sympathy, but we can plead for them--act toward them in the spirit of the Golden Rule, and as sons of the Golden Land, cherishing the fond memories of the past, greet them from here to-night, as we greet each other around the festive circle:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"And here's a hand, my trusty fier,<LB>And gie's a hand o' thine;<LB>And we'll tak` a right guid willie-waught,<LB>For auld lang syne."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of General Gibson's address, Secretary Clark read letters of regret at their inability to attend the re-union, from President Grant, Generals Sherman, Sheridan and John A. Sutter, Mark Twain, Bayard Taylor and Peter Donahue, ex-President of the "Society of California Pioneers," of San Francisco.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In reply to the first toast--" <HI REND="italics">The President of the United States</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The Day we Celebrate, the Anniversary of the Discovery of Gold in California</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>429</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>MR. PRESIDENT AND GENTLEMEN:--Although the day we celebrate is not marked down in the Calendar of Saints as officially set apart as a close holiday; nor is it, perhaps, even noticed, except by this Society, it is one that may well be remembered as the commencement, the starting-point or moving cause of great events that followed.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Twenty-nine years ago to-day, near the Indian <HI REND="italics">Rancheria</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Toiling through long years, the early settlements at Plymouth, New Amsterdam and in Virginia progressed slowly.  True, they were builded on a firm foundation, but the advancement in a century of their existence did not equal that of a single decade in the more favored land of the farther West!</P>
149.sgm:<P>The little "nugget" that first saw the light of day at Sutter's Mill, was the talisman that wrought a wondrous change.  Its pure ring sounded and vibrated almost to the uttermost bounds of the earth, and attracted a wave of emigration that rushed, with all the speed of wind and tide, from both hemispheres and, on our own continent, traversed the inhospitable plains, scaled the rugged peaks of our western mountains, and thus peopled the slumbering valleys and fertile plains from the Sierras to the sea.</P>
149.sgm:<P>When the unpretending Marshall raised that little "nugget" from its rest of centuries, wondering what manner of metal it might be, little did he dream that his accidental discovery would lead to such scenes as those in which we have participated, and to such results as the world now beholds!  Even the keen intelligence and education of Sutter, recognizing at first sight the glittering gold, could not foresee the wonderful and rapid transformation to be wrought from the incidents <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>430</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>A certain class of moralists are wont to inveigh roundly against gold-hunting and gold-mining as demoralizing, revolutionary and semi-barbarous; as giving scope and activity to the lower passions, encouraging men to waste, to habits of idleness and improvidence, and causing them to neglect the higher duties of life in the search for what they term "filthy lucre;" while the lucre itself they value highly, and sometimes worship, after it is taken from mother earth and stamped as current coin of the realm.  We know that the idea thus sought to be impressed is erroneous.  And, gentlemen, I would stoutly defend your early career in the "diggin's" from any such unjust aspersions.  Whatever you are now, the great majority of those before me were once "honest miners"--the representative men, who with level heads, stout hearts and willing hands helped to unlock the treasure-house of California, and at whose bidding was poured forth the plenty that belongs to man.  And these results represent labor, honorable labor, which is the foundation of all values; those millions, whatever may be the changes through which they have passed, and whatever may represent them now, originally represented the industry, intelligence and thrift of the gold-miners of California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>And just here I would say a good word in behalf of that great army of irrepressible "prospectors," who, as skirmishers, fringe the advancing line of our frontiers in search of "colors to the pan," or of "pay rock," thus lead the way for a new civilization, and for new and peaceful conquests.  Thus has it been from the discovery of that "nugget" at Coloma down to the present day.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Following in quick succession, towns and cities were built, States organized, broad acres cultivated, and the varied industries of man were quickened into life and activity by the fructifying influence of the gold-fields of the new <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Nor has California alone received all the benefits resulting from Marshall's discovery.  They have been felt in almost every part of the world--nowhere more than in our own country.  Particularly in this imperial city, large enterprises have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>As the mountain-springs and the modest rivulets are but the beginnings of the majestic river and the mighty cataract, so this apparently insignificant discovery by an humble laborer has led to the wonderful development of the material interests of that great West.  The stillness of those primeval forests has been broken by the echo of the locomotive, the frowning Sierras have been subdued, and the wilderness made to blossom as the rose.  Towers, domes and spires cast their shadows upon the sea, on whose shores sits enthroned the palatial city, whose rapid march to greatness has been the wonder of the age.</P>
149.sgm:<P>To you, gentlemen, and to such as you, that discovery of gold gave the well-improved opportunity of founding this new empire on the shore of the Pacific--surely, "Peace hath her victories no less renowned than war."</P>
149.sgm:<P>"CALIFORNIA"--was responded to by Colonel Edward F. Burton in a humorous speech, which was frequently applauded.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"GENERAL JOHN A. SUTTER"--was responded to by General H. G. Gibson, in his happiest style.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"PIONEER DAYS"--by Joseph S. Spinney.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"PACIFIC RAILROAD"--by Clark Bell.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"OUR HONORED DEAD"--by Colonel Jas. M. Turner.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"DAYS OF 'FORTY-NINE"--by Samuel C. Upham, of Philadelphia.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"WOMAN"--by Colonel John A. Godfrey.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In response to " <HI REND="italics">Days of 'Forty-nine</HI>
149.sgm:<P>MR. PRESIDENT AND BROTHER PIONEERS:--In response to your invitation, I am here to-night, the guest of "The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California," and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>I was somewhat surprised, on Monday morning last, at receiving from the Secretary of this Society a postal card containing the following announcement:</P>
149.sgm:<P>"4th regular toast--The Days of '49; response by S. C. Upham."</P>
149.sgm:<P>Unfortunately, Mr. President, my tongue is not like the pen of a ready writer.  Rude am I of speech, and little blessed with the accomplishments of the orator, yet I will, relying upon your indulgence,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A round, unvarnished tale deliver,<LB>Nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At the re-union of Californians at the Centennial Grounds, in Philadelphia, on the 9th of September last, I had the pleasure of meeting, for the first time, the officers and several of the members of this Society, and the kindly greeting and the hearty welcome I have received this evening at their and your hands, Mr. President, I shall ever cherish as one of the most pleasurable events of my life.  We met on that occasion to do honor to the State, at whose birth--more than a quarter of a century ago--many of us officiated as god-fathers.  Our bantling has long since cast off her swaddling-clothes, and to-day, in the fullness of her maturity and matchless beauty, crowned with the gems once hidden in her soil, she stands the brightest and sunniest star in the constellation of the States of our glorious Union.  The wealth of the Occident, that is constantly pouring into her lap through the portals of the Golden Gate, together with her unbounded mineral and agricultural resources, have gained for her the honored and deserved title of Queen of the Pacific.</P>
149.sgm:<P>To the members of this Society, Mr. President, and especially to the <HI REND="italics">untiring efforts of your Secretary, Mr. Francis D. Clark</HI>
149.sgm:, was the success of the re-union of the 9th of Septemberlast chiefly due.  That it was a success, in the fullest acceptation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>From a Photo by J. Rennie Smith, Newark, N.J.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>The citizens of California, Mr. President, who are interested in the welfare and prestige of their State, owe to this Society and its co-laborers their heartfelt thanks.  Had they not put their shoulders to the wheel, the name of California would not have been inscribed on the roll of Centennial State re-unions.  In rendering the full meed of praise to this Society, I have no desire to ignore the services of a few patriotic and liberalminded citizens of California and Nevada, who subscribed the funds and caused the erection of the "Pacific Coast Centennial Hall," under whose roof the re-union to which I have just alluded took place.  They also deserve the thanks of their fellow-citizens.  Let us "render unto C&aelig;sar's the things that are C&aelig;sar's."</P>
149.sgm:<P>When I look around me to-night, Mr. President, and scan the faces of my brother-Argonauts, memories of the past, incidents by "flood and field" of the days when we went goldhunting, long, long ago, crowd as thickly upon the mind <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"As leaves in Valambrosa!"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>May those memories ever remain green in our hearts.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Days of 'Forty-nine!  Three simple, yet to me significant words; words that cause memories of the past to arise before me.  The long and tedious voyage around Cape Horn; life in the mines; scenes in camp and can&tilde;on; across the Isthmus by mule and bungo, are so indelibly photographed upon the retina of the mind, that nothing but death will efface them.  Many of our comrades who went forth in the flush of manhood never returned, and their bones lie mouldering on the western plains, in the sands of the ocean, and in the gulches and can&tilde;ons of the far-off Pacific slope.  Occasionally, one of those modern Argonauts found the golden fleece and returned home a richer if not a wiser man; but those cases were exceptions to the general rule.  A majority, after toiling months and years in the mines, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>In "the days of '49," the miner with his rude implements--pick, spade, pan and rocker or cradle, minus the baby--toiled early and late.  When success crowned his efforts, he was jubilant and built castles in the air, but the ill luck of the morrow demolished those visionary fabrics, and with a saddened heart he yearned for his far-away home and the loved ones around the old hearthstone.  In those days every miner was his own cook and washerwoman, and I shall never forget my experiences with the frying-pan and soiled unmentionables.  I wrestled long and ardently, but could never acquire that peculiar and indescribable twist of the wrist which would enable me to flop and turn a griddle-cake without landing it in the ashes.  I thought then and I promulgate it now, not in anger but with sorrow, that as a cook and washist I was not a success!</P>
149.sgm:<P>Those pioneer experiences in the culinary and washing line have imbued me with an almost sacred reverence for cooks and washerwomen, including that copper-colored, pig-tailed, almond-eyed disciple of Confucius-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"With ways that are dark, And tricks that are vain"--</HI>
149.sgm:<P>the Heathen Chinee!</P>
149.sgm:<P>In conclusion, Mr. President, let us--survivors of the old guard--the forlorn hope--assembled here to-night, "eat, drink and be merry," and for the nonce forget our gray hairs and imagine ourselves young again!</P>
149.sgm:<P>The theme of the next speaker was "Woman," but his speech was mainly a philippie addressed to the gentleman, <HI REND="italics">an invited guest</HI>
149.sgm:<P>During the banquet, Charles Mollenhauer's Orchestra discoursed excellent music, and between the toasts the Union Glee Club sang concerted pieces, including the "Song of the Argonauts; or, The Days of '49."  Professor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>CELEBRATION OF "ADMISSION DAY" AT LONG BRANCH, N.J.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Programme of exercises--Pioneers present--The Banquet--General Gibson's address of welcome--Introduction of General Sutter--Letters of regret--Mayor McKune's address--General Sutter's response--Poem--"The Land We Adore"--Bayard Taylor speaks a piece--"Song of the Argonauts"--Hop in the evening in honor of General Sutter--Telegram sent to California--The reply.</P>
149.sgm:<P>THE Twenty-seventh Anniversary of the Admission of California into the Union, was celebrated by the Argonauts of 'Forty-nine, under the auspices of "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA," at the Ocean Hotel, Long Branch, N.J., on Saturday, September 8th, 1877.  The day was rainy and windy, but the hardy Pioneers who had braved dangers by "flood and field" in the days of '49, turned out in goodly numbers--nearly two hundred strong--some of them accompanied by their wives.  Among the ladies present, were Miss Sutter, daughter of the American consul at Acapulco, Mexico, and granddaughter of General John A. Sutter; Mrs. Francis D. Clark, Mrs. Prentice Mulford and Mrs. S. C. Upham.  The following committees were composed of gentlemen belonging to " <HI REND="italics">The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California</HI>
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149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SEPTEMBER 9TH,<HSEP>SEPTEMBER 9TH, 1850.<HSEP>1877.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF ARRANGEMENTS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. THOS. D. JOHNS,</P>
149.sgm:<P>COM. C. K. GARRISON,<HSEP>COL. E. F. BURTON,</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. JOSEPH HOOKER, U.S.A.,<HSEP>CHARLES R. THOMPSON,</P>
149.sgm:<P>COM'R R. W. MEADE, U.S.N.,<HSEP>S. L. MERCHANT,</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. JAMES F. CURTIS,<HSEP>JOHN J. HAGER,</P>
149.sgm:<P>HON. JEREMIAH SHERWOOD,<HSEP>JOHN GAULT.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE ON INVITATION.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN SICKELS, <HI REND="italics">Vice-President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>GEORGE HOWES,<HSEP>HON. DEMAS STRONG,</P>
149.sgm:<P>E. W. CROWELL,<HSEP>WM. M. WALTON,</P>
149.sgm:<P>HON. D. M. CHAUNCEY,<HSEP>JOHN S. ELLIS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>RECEPTION COMMITTEE.</P>
149.sgm:<P>HON. R. H. MCKUNE,</P>
149.sgm:<P>HON. R. M. PRICE,<HSEP>JOHN G. HODGE,</P>
149.sgm:<P>CHAS. W. SCHUMANN,<HSEP>E. R. ANTHONY,</P>
149.sgm:<P>C. LYDECKER,<HSEP>A. T. GOODELL.</P>
149.sgm:<P>H. G. GIBSON,</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK,<HSEP>Brevet Brig.-Gen. U.S.A.,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Secretary and Treasurer</HI>
149.sgm:.<HSEP><HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The following programme of the exercises was carried out as announced:</P>
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149.sgm:<P>RE-UNION OF CALIFORNIANS,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Under the Auspices of the</P>
149.sgm:<P>Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California,</P>
149.sgm:<P>(HEAD-QUARTERS IN NEW YORK CITY,)</P>
149.sgm:<P>AT THE</P>
149.sgm:<P>Ocean Hotel, Long Branch, N.J.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ON SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 8TH, 1877,</P>
149.sgm:<P>AT 2.30 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
149.sgm:<P>(Twenty-seventh Anniversary of the Admission of California Into the Union.)</P>
149.sgm:<P>Programme of Exercises,</P>
149.sgm:<P>In connection with the Dinner.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1.  ADDRESS, <HI REND="italics">by General H. G. Gibson, U.S.A</HI>
149.sgm:<P>2.  MUSIC--"Star Spangled Banner."</P>
149.sgm:<P>3.  ANNOUNCEMENT OF LETTERS, <HI REND="italics">by the Secretary of the Society</HI>
149.sgm:<P>4.  MUSIC--"Golden Gate Quickstep."</P>
149.sgm:<P>5.  INTRODUCTION OF GEN. JOHN A. SUTTER, <HI REND="italics">by Gen. H. G. Gibson</HI>
149.sgm:<P>6.  WELCOME, to Gen. John A. Sutter, Pioneer of 1838, <HI REND="italics">by Hon. R. H. McKune</HI>
149.sgm:<P>7.  MUSIC--"Hail to the Chief."</P>
149.sgm:<P>8.  POEM--"The Land We Adore,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Composed (expressly for this occasion,) and read by the author, SAMUEL C. UPHAM, Esq., a "49er."</P>
149.sgm:<P>9.  MUSIC--"Bonanza March."</P>
149.sgm:<P>10.  A FEW REMARKS, <HI REND="italics">by Col. E. F. Burton, a "Veteran" Pioneer</HI>
149.sgm:<P>11.  "SONG OF THE ARGONAUTS; OR, DAYS OF '49" Composed by S. C. UPHAM, Esq., of Philadelphia; and sung by Wm. J. HILL, Esq.  The audience will please join in the chorus.</P>
149.sgm:<P>12.  MUSIC.--"Traumeres,"-- <HI REND="italics">Schumann</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Orchestra under the Direction of Mr. Charles Mollenhauer.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Complimentary Hop tendered by Messrs. CHARLES and WARREN LELAND, Jr., in honor of Gen. JOHN A. SUTTER. will take place at 9 P.M.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>Conspicuous among the "Old Boys" was General John A. Sutter, the veteran Pioneer, aged seventy-five years, but who looked as hale and hearty as many of his comrades a score of years younger.  The morning was spent in conversation, in the parlors, and at half-past two o'clock, P.M., the Pioneers and their guests sat down to a sumptuous dinner.  General H. G. Gibson, President of the Associated Pioneers, occupied the central seat, and behind him, on the wall, hung the "Old Bear Flag."  On either side of the flag were placards bearing the names of places and events famous in the early history of California.  By the side of General Gibson sat General Sutter, and at his side was seated Bayard Taylor.  Near by was Hon. R. H. McKune, Mayor of Scranton, Pa., just recovering from wounds received at the hands of the railroad rioters, because he knew his duty, and dared to do it, despite mob violence.  There were also present ex-Governor Rodman M. Price, of New Jersey, who assisted in raising the first American flag in California, at Monterey, on July 7th, 1846; ex-Mayor Vance, of New York; Hon. Demas Strong, President of the first Common Council of Sacramento City, in 1850; General Thomas D. Johns, E. W. Crowell, Colonel Fritz, General McComb, Colonel T. B. Thorpe, A. T. Goodell, General James F. Curtis, Commander R. W. Meade, U.S.N., John Gault, Dr. Thos. A. Bailey, Chas. R. Thompson, Chas. W. Schumann, John G. Hodge, Colonel A. C. Ferris, who, in 1849, took the first party, two hundred men, by way of Vera Cruz, to San Blas, and thence to San Francisco, arriving on the 14th of May, ahead of all the parties that rounded Cape Horn or went overland; Colonel John Sickels, J. H. Butler, H. K. Cummings, J. C. Curry, J. J. McCloskey, the California actor of '49; Francis D. Clark, Colonel Jos. E. Lawrence and S. C. Upham, early newspaper men of Sacramento City, and Prentice Mulford, formerly of the <HI REND="italics">Overland Monthly</HI>
149.sgm:.  After the dinner had been discussed, order <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>FELLOW-PIONEERS, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:--In accordance with a custom, long observed by the parent Societies of the Pacific Coast, "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA," residing in the East, have assembled here to-day to celebrate the anniversary of the admission of California into the American Confederation of States.  Twenty-seven years ago "the morrow morn," after a long and bitter political contest in the halls of Congress, the State which the Pioneers of California had founded and organized became "a bright particular star"--wedded to the Union.  The Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, terminating the war with Mexico, had extended our dominion on the remote Pacific over a vast region, to the south of <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"the continuous woods<LB>Where rolls the Oregon and hears no sound<LB>Save its own dashings"--</HI>
149.sgm:<P>to us and the world at large a <HI REND="italics">terra incognita</HI>
149.sgm:.  Beyond a narrow fringe of settlements--missions and <HI REND="italics">presidios</HI>
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149.sgm:<P>But, Pioneers, I will not detain you by dwelling upon the material and physical beauty of the land with its delightful clime, the charming pastoral life with its serene repose and quiet felicity, before the modern Sassenach came with grimvisaged war, or the modern Argonaut seeking the golden ore; nor will I, in this greeting of mine, indulge in the rich-fraught retrospect of the past, or upon the real presence of to-day, or the glowing visions of the future--of the magical changes wrought, of the brilliant, substantial results accomplished, through much tribulation, toil and suffering; for you, who shared in the exciting scenes and trying incidents of early California days, know them well.  In the bright glow of memory's light, you can look back and proudly say: "Out of the rocks of California <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Impressed with all this, I bid you a cordial, gladsome welcome here to-day, and with the cherished memories of "auld lang syne," of "the joys that we've tasted," with the golden reminiscences of the fair Golden State, extend to each and all of you, the kindliest greeting of heart and hand.  The mighty surf that rolls upon the grand old beach at our feet gives you a welcome, too, in its every tone, and sound, and roar, as it recalls to mind the booming of a mightier surf of a grander ocean, that beats on the rock-bound coast of California, and pours its tides and billows through the portals of the Golden Gate.  As old ocean's spray mingles with the vintage in our cups that we drink to California; as its sounds blend with the notes of softer music, it welcomes you in the name of its sister ocean; and we need not ask, like little Paul Dombey, "what are the wild waves saying?" for they speak to us of joys and trials, dangers and delights, in the far-off Golden Land we love so well.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Ladies, I bid you welcome, welcome, too.  Feeble though be the expression, I trust you will not find it lacking in that sweet courtesy, which "it is very meet, right, and our bounden duty" to render to the fairer, gentler portion of humanity.  Though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:"bright eyes" may not "speak love to eyes which speak again," still whilst "soft music rises with a voluptuous swell" we may tell you "of the dangers we have passed," of the "most disastrous chances" of our California life--unshared, unsoothed by your sweet companionship, and some fair Desdemona may seriously incline to hear, to believe, to pity and to love.  And we may tell you, too, on the faith of ye truthful journalists of the day, that, in California, "in the desert a fountain is springing," from the virtues of whose waters, beauty ever retains its freshness and bloom, youth its grace, comeliness and strength, and "let thy loveliness fade as it will," the <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"endearing young charms<LB>We gaze on so fondly to-day,"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>will return with a brighter glow and sweeter attraction.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Tourney and joust that charmed the eye,<LB>And scarf and gorgeous panoply,<LB>And nodding plume"--</HI>
149.sgm:<P>have gone with the age and flower of chivalry.  We no longer summon to the lists, or to the field of mortal combat, the rivals in our love; yet in this sober, practical age, the smiles and favors of fair woman are as sweet, as precious, as dear to us; we are as proud and ready to throw or accept the gauntlet in her cause, to make every sacrifice for our love, as <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"the gentle knights that came<LB>To kneel and breathe love's ardent flame<LB>Low at her feet."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"The smiles from partial beauty won"-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"to know there is an eye will mark<LB>Our coming, and grow brighter when we come;"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"dear woman's loving prattle," which "flows with sweet meanings for the heart alone"--are our proudest triumphs, our "empire of perfect bliss" in youth, our glory and delight in manhood, our joy and solace in declining years.  Like the Pleiades that so "purely sparkle in Heaven," she "sheds her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:sweet influence over the earth," and man, who lords it over all the rest of creation, yields at once to beauty's charms and woman's loving wiles.  The Paradise of Mahomet, with houris of exquisite form and feature, was but an unrefined expression of the power and influence wielded by woman, and with our knowledge of their potency in this enlightened age, do we wonder at the brilliant success and rapid spread of the Moslem faith, in a darker era, when the enjoyment of woman's lovingness and loveliness was the promised reward of every true believer, every faithful follower of the standard of the Prophet?  And under the benign influence of a purer religion, we believe that those whose gentle hands and sweet, loving faces cheer and console us in this vale of tears, will be at our side in the realms of celestial light before the throne of God;<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"For love is Heaven, and Heaven is love."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>In introducing General Sutter, General Gibson said:</P>
149.sgm:<P>The patriarchs of Israel, when they assembled their kindred and people in the land, which the God of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob had given them to possess it; the mighty conquerors of the world from Xenophon to Napoleon, when, at the momentous crisis of perilous conflict, there rallied around them the legions known "by the tried valor of their hands;" the proud chieftains of the Highlands, when they gathered their clans for counsel, battle, foray or raid, felt that exultant joy and grateful pride, which is inspired by the fealty and devotion of those bound to each other by the ties of blood, affection or association.  The noble patriarch and world-famed Pioneer, at whose feet to-day we lay our tribute of love and honor, must be inspired by the same proud and grateful feelings, when he looks around upon the faces of his clansmen and his children--the Pioneers of California.  For no patriarch of Israel, no warrior of ancient or modern renown, no chieftain of Highland clan, ever found kith or kin, liege-vassal or soldier, clansman or servitor more loyal and true than those who bid him welcome here to-day; than those who, on the distant Pacific recall with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:us the deeds and virtues of that great heart, that not only gave the <HI REND="italics">open sesame</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The nation, through cold or thoughtless selfishness, or want of appreciation of his "life of honor and of worth, "may deny him the just guerdon of his great services, but long ere the muffled drum within us shall beat its last tattoo, history and song shall recount the story of that life in choicest diction and glowing rhythm, and " on the painter's canvas shall grow his life of beauty."  A life of virtue and of fame, worthy to be commemorated, not only in more modest bronze or marble, but in the richest metal from California's golden store.  I say that history, song and art will yet redeem in part the shame and reproach of the Republic for its neglect of its great benefactor, but with you</P>
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149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"His signal deeds and virtues high<LB>Demands no pompous eulogy;<LB>Ye saw his deeds!<LB>Why should their praise in verse be sung?<LB>The name that dwells on every tongue<LB>No minstrel needs."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Fresh laurel wreaths we bring to-day<LB>To crown the patriarch,"<LB></HI>
149.sgm:<P>Mayor McKune, of Scranton, then delivered the following address of welcome to General Sutter:</P>
149.sgm:<P>GENERAL SUTTER:--Having been selected by my associates to tender to you our hearty congratulations and join with you in earnest thanks to our Heavenly Father for His mercies who has protected you another year, and given you strength that has enabled you to join with us in celebrating the twenty-seventh anniversary of the admission of California to the Union of States, I am bidden by my associates to welcome you to our re-union, and to assure you that your presence fills our cup of gratification unto fullness.  I have no language to express the pleasure your presence affords us.  Your name, sir, is indissolubly joined to that of the Pioneer days of California.  It was in the furtherance of your enterprises that the earth gave up her treasures, that had been hidden from the sight of man from creation.  The development of those treasures changed the commerce of the world.  The Golden Gate saluted, as they passed through, the ensigns of every maritime nation.  In a word, "the world was turned upside down."  But amid the disappointments and sufferings of hundreds of the pioneers and amid "man's inhumanity to man" there stood <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>448</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>As I look around among my associates who are here to-day, I find the army and navy of our country well represented by associates whose names their country has placed high on the roll of fame.  The civil professions and the various ranks of business here find worthy representatives.  The incidents of our California days can never be effaced from our memories, and we beg to assure you that though the efforts we have hitherto made for an honorable settlement of your claims upon the general government have been unsuccessful, we hereby pledge ourselves, not only to use our individual, but to continue our united efforts until justice shall be done to you and yours.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Trusting, sir, that this day's re-union may bring to you sweet and pleasant memories of the past, and bind us together in closer fellowship, and as the shades of night gather around your pathway, you will be cheered by the assurance that you leave behind those who will always cherish your name with the warmest affection of their whole nature.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General Sutter arose in response to the hearty applause which followed Mayor McKune's address, and with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>447</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>449</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Letters of regret were read by the Secretary, Mr. Francis D. Clark, from President Hayes, General Sherman, Governor Irwin, of California, Governor Robinson, General Hancock, Mayor Ely, Mr. Peter Dean, President of "The Society of California Pioneers," General F. J. Lippitt, General Joseph W. Revere, who, when a lieutenant in the navy, in 1846, raised the first American flag at Sonoma; Vice-Admiral S. C. Rowan and John W. Livingston, of the United States Navy, both of whom were lieutenants during the conquest of California, and served on that coast; General Edward F. Beale, Gilmor Meredith and R. R. Griffith, Jr.  The regrets of Joaquin Miller, Poet of the Sierras, were conveyed in the following characteristic letter and poem:</P>
149.sgm:<P>GENERAL GIBSON, FRANCIS D. CLARK, AND OTHERS OF THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA:--I thank you for your kind invitation to dinner at the gathering of your great and good brotherhood, but I am at work and cannot be with you.  But do not imagine that I have forgotten you or the great gold shore by the vast west sea.  A great land, a great people, and a great period in history--surely, they are worthy of all that can be said or sung, and my song is still of the Pacific:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>My brave world-builders of the West!<LB>Why, who hath known ye?  Who shall know<LB>But I, who on thy peaks of snow<LB>Sang songs the first!  I loved you best;<LB>I hold you still of more stern worth<LB>Than all proud peoples of the earth.</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>448</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>450</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">Yea, I, the rhymer of wild rhymes,<LB>Indifferent of blame or praise,<LB>Still sing of you as one who plays<LB>The same wild air in all strange climes--<LB>The same wild, piercing, highland air,<LB>Because--because his heart is there.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>JOAQUIN MILLER.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">New York, August 30th</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The following poem, written for the occasion, was then read by its author:</P>
149.sgm:<P>THE LAND WE ADORE.</P>
149.sgm:<P>BY SAMUEL C. UPHAM, A "'FORTY-NINER." <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Comrades and Brothers, we're assembled to-day,<LB>But not as plumed warriors in battle array--<LB>Assembled to honor the young Golden State,<LB>Whose birth and whose grandeur we now celebrate.<LB>The gleam of the camp-fires of emigrant trains,<LB>Is seldom now seen on the far-away plains,<LB>The screech of the engine, so loud and so shrill,<LB>Comes echoing back from each can&tilde;on and hill.<LB>The grizzly starts up with a snort and a growl,<LB>The wolf and <HI REND="italics">coyote</HI>
149.sgm: chime in with a howl,<LB>The buffalo tosses the earth in the air,<LB>And the panther, aroused, springs up from his lair.<LB>The antelope leaps o'er the plain in affright,<LB>The prairie dog barks from morn until night,<LB>From his eyrie the eagle looks down in disdain,<LB>As the steam-whistle shrieks its startling refrain.<LB>Our camp-fires no longer illume the ravine,<LB>The Pan and the Rocker are rarely now seen,<LB>Flap-jacks and <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
149.sgm:, our diet of yore,<LB>Have flown like a vision to return nevermore.</HI>
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149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>451</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">The Tom and the Sluice-box, once sparkling with gold,<LB>No longer wash out the auriferous mould;<LB>The Quartz Mill and Crusher have taken their place,<LB>And steam's declared victor again in the race.<LB>Our cabins now roofless and gone to decay,<LB>Like their tenants of old, are passing away;<LB>The grave on the hillside, with head-board decayed,<LB>Marks the spot where a comrade we long ago laid.<LB>O woman, dear woman! pure as gold without dross,<LB>The first at the tomb and the last at the cross,<LB>Thy presence ne'er cheered us in camp nor in mine,<LB>In those long-ago days, the days of lang syne--<LB>When the toils of the day had drawn to a close,<LB>And wrapped in our blankets in silent repose,<LB>Our thoughts wandered back to our sweethearts and wives,<LB>The loved ones for whom we had periled our lives.<LB>Famed <HI REND="italics">Yerba Buena</HI>
149.sgm:, old town by the sea,<LB>Demolished long since by fate's stern decree,<LB>Thy <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
149.sgm: all crumbled and razed to the ground,<LB>Not a trace of thy walls is now to be found;<LB>On thy site has been builded the Queen of the West,<LB>Close by the portals, by the Golden Gate's crest,<LB>Where church dome and steeple point up to the sky,<LB>And the Stars and the Stripes wave proudly on high.<LB>Thy city and harbor, proud golden-gemmed Queen,<LB>Are rivalled by none the world has e'er seen;<LB>Thy merchants and bankers, like Cr&oelig;sus of old,<LB>Have locked in their coffers their millions untold.<LB>The school-house and college, like beacon-lights, stand<LB>In vale and on hill-top, the pride of thy land;<LB>Still, we in thy closet two skeletons see--<LB>The vagabond "Hoodlum" and "Heathen Chinee."<LB>Hamlets like magic to large cities have grown,<LB>The <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>450</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>452</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">The vine and the fig-tree are laden with fruit,<LB>And the breezes blow soft as the tones of the lute;<LB>The orange-tree blossoms and fruits in the vale,<LB>The date and pomegranate, 'mid sand and the shale,<LB>The filbert and almond, and manna of yore,<LB>All abound in the land that we love and adore.<LB>The <HI REND="italics">Sequoias gigantea</HI>
149.sgm:, when the earth was quite young,<LB>And birds in fair Eden their sweet music sung,<LB>Then upward were towering in days far remote,<LB>As the rings 'round their trunks unerringly note.<LB>For thousands of years, as firmly as rocks,<LB>These giants have braved the hurricanes' shocks--<LB>Are older than Noah, the man without guile,<LB>Older than Cheops in the vale of the Nile.<LB>The Ship of the Desert,<ANCHOR ID="na-6">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm: long buried from view,<LB>Once manned by Arch Masons--King Solomon's crew--<LB>She sailed from the East bound for Ophir's gold shore,<LB>But, shipwrecked and stranded, returned nevermore;<LB>Her hull lies imbedded on the alkali plain,<LB>And the desert simoon ever sings her refrain,<LB>Sings the dirge of the sailors, those Masons of old,<LB>Who never returned with their cargo of gold.</HI>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-6">Some four or five years ago, the decayed hull of a ship was found imbedded in the sand of the great Western Desert.  When and from what port did she sail, and to what nation did she belong?</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Fond recollections of the long-ago times,<LB>Come echoing back like the music of chimes;<LB>The Tuolumne rolls on as in ages of yore,<LB>The Stanislaus laves its auriferous shore,<LB>The Bear and the Yuba flow down to the sea,<LB>Bright flowers are still blooming, and green is each tree;<LB>The Sierras tower up in their helmets of snow,<LB>And the wild rose and tule&acute; still wave to and fro;<LB>Diablo, proud monarch, all grizzled and gray,<LB>Looms up in the distance his realm to survey.</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>451</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>453</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">But where are our comrades of long-ago days?<LB>Some, grouped around me, crowned with laurels and bays,<ANCHOR ID="na-7">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<LB>Others are present, with locks frosted by age,<LB>Whose names add new lustre to history's page;<ANCHOR ID="na-8">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<LB>And Stevenson's veterans<ANCHOR ID="na-9">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm: are with us to-day,<LB>Erst from Sonoma, La Paz and old Monterey--<LB>Heroes, who helped add to the red, white and blue,<LB>A bright golden star, ever loyal and true.<LB>Others lie mouldering on the plains of the West,<LB>Their spirits have soared to the land of the blest,<LB>Where soon we shall meet on that far-away shore,<LB>Shall meet, and shall greet, and shall part nevermore.</HI>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-7">Generals Joe Hooker, Winfield S. Hancock, Horatio G. Gibson, Silas Casey, Thos. D. Johns, Francis J. Lippitt, Nelson Taylor and Colonel Geo. W. Patten, U.S. Army; Vice-Admiral S. C. Rowan and Commander R. W. Meade, U.S. Navy.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-8">Generals John A. Sutter and John C. Fremont; Commodore C. K. Garrison, Hon. R. M. Price, Hon. R. H. McKune and General John S. Ellis.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-9">Lieutenant Jeremiah Sherwood, Privates Francis D. Clark, Russell Myers, Chas. J. McPherson, William C. Rogers, James Nuttman and Squire G. Merrill.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of the poem, Mr. J. Berry, a "48er," delivered a humorous speech, which was frequently applauded.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Bayard Taylor, the next speaker, said he did not believe there was anything more wonderful in the march of Godfrey to Jerusalem than in the early argosy to California.  It was a democracy of law and order, sustained merely by human nature.  He had a kind of pity for those who did not have the pioneer's experience, and he recalled the time when he first saw San Francisco, in 1849, when there were more vessels in the harbor than canvas houses on the land; when Fremont was living there in a hut, and when the speaker had slept several nights under the same blanket with the Duke of Sonora.  When he last saw General Sutter he was in Monterey, in 1849, after the Constitution had been adopted.  There was a dance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>452</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>454</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>After the singing, by Mr. Wm. J. Hill, of the " <HI REND="italics">Song of the Argonauts; or, the Days of 'Forty-nine</HI>
149.sgm:," written by Mr. S. C. Upham, in the chorus of which the entire company joined; the reading of a resolution indorsing <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At nine o'clock, P.M., the company gathered again in the large parlor of the hotel, and joined in a complimentary hop tendered to General Sutter, by Messrs. Charles and Warren Leland, Jr.  The walls of the ball-room were decorated with banners bearing brief sentences in illuminated letters, recalling events and persons familiar to all the pioneers of California.  The tripping of the "light fantastic toe" was kept up until a late hour.  Everything passed off pleasantly, and the joyous event, with its pleasing associations, will never be forgotten by the participants.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Before the commencement of the exercises of the day, the following greeting was telegraphed to the Pioneers of the Pacific slope:</P>
149.sgm:<P>LONG BRANCH, N.J., September 8th, 1877.</P>
149.sgm:<P>TO THE CALIFORNIA PIONEERS, assembled at San Jose, California:</P>
149.sgm:<P>To our friends in Eureka, the old Pioneers,</P>
149.sgm:<P>We send kindly greetings and three hearty cheers,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Three cheers and a tiger for the young Golden State,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Whose birth and whose grandeur we to-day celebrate.</P>
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149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>455</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>General John A. Sutter, standing on the Atlantic beach, surrounded by his associates of early days, sends his greetings.  God bless you all.</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sec'y Associated Pioneers</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The following response was received late in the afternoon:</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAN JOSE, CAL., September 8th, 1877.</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK, Long Branch, N.J.--"The Society of California Pioneers," and the "Santa Clara County Pioneers," greet their brothers of the Atlantic shore.  May your lives be prolonged and prosperity ever yours.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A. C. BRADFORD,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sec'y California Pioneers</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ALEX. P. MURGOTTEN,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sec'y Santa Clara Co. Pioneers</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>454</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>456</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>THIRD ANNUAL RE-UNION AND BANQUET OF "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA."</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Secretary and Treasurer Clark's report--President Gibson's annual address--Election of officers for the current year--The banquet--Programme of exercises--General H. G. Gibson's address of welcome--Letters of regret--Prentice Mulford's address--Speeches by Judge Pratt, Colonel T. B. Thorpe, Colonel Edward F. Burton, Clark Bell, J. J. McCloskey, Colonel Joe Lawrence, Hon. Demas Strong, Joseph S. Spinney, Francis D. Clark and General Thomas D. Johns--"Ye Ancient Yuba Miner"--Notables present--"Song of the Argonauts"--Good-night.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ON Friday evening, January 18th, 1878, "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA," held their third annual re-union and banquet, at the Sturtevant House, New York City, being the thirtieth anniversary of the discovery of gold at Sutter's sawmill, at Coloma.  Previous to the banquet, the annual meeting and election of officers took place, as follows:</P>
149.sgm:<P>President Gibson called the meeting to order, and Secretary Clark read the minutes of the annual meeting, following whieh the Secretary presented and read his report for the year ending that date, as also a review of the progress of the organization from the evening of its formation, February 11th, 1875, to date.  Secretary Clark concluded with his report as Treasurer of the Society, the duties of which office had been performed by him in connection with those of Secretary.  The minutes, reports and review were approved.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General Gibson presented and read his annual address, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>455</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>457</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>General Johns moved that a committee of three be appointed by the President, to whom the address of that officer, and the reports and the review of the Secretary should be referred, with directions to take into consideration the suggestions therein offered, and report upon the same.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The President named Messrs. C. Lydecker, G. F. Sniffin and J. F. Curtis as said committee.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. Demas Strong addressed the Society upon its very flattering progress during the three years of its existence, and urged upon each member the duty of using his influence to further its interests, and also paid a very high compliment to Secretary Clark for the zeal and energy displayed by that officer in promoting the welfare of the Society, and concluded by a motion that a committee of three be appointed by the President to prepare a suitable testimonial to be presented to Secretary Clark in recognition of his past services and the appreciation in which he is held by his associates.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The President named Hon. Demas Strong and Messrs. Joseph S. Spinney and W. M. Walton, as said committee.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. Spinney, the sum of $150 was placed in the hands of the Secretary to meet the expense of stationery, printing and postage for the ensuing year.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On motion of Colonel Edward F. Burton, a fine copy of the "Group of '49 members," recently prepared for the Society, handsomely framed, was presented to the Secretary, the expense thereof to be defrayed out of the treasury.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Secretary presented to the Society the names of General John C. Fremont, General Joseph W. Revere and Judge Theron Per Lee, and on motion these gentlemen were duly elected members of the Society.  General Revere was the officer who hauled down the celebrated "Bear Flag" and hoisted the American flag in its stead at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>456</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>458</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The Vice-President presented some proposed amendments to the present "Articles of Association," as also several new articles, and the Secretary read each with care, and no objection being offered, Mr. James A. Sperry moved their adoption, with the understanding that a committee should be appointed by the President further to examine the same and make such corrections as to the committee may seem proper, their action to be final.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The President named General Thos. D. Johns, Messrs. J. A. Sperry and J. Gault said committee.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Vice-President Sickels moved that the Society now proceed with the election of officers, in accordance with the adopted amendment, which provides for the election of one President, ten Vice-Presidents, one Secretary, one Treasurer and nine Trustees, which motion was adopted.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General Gibson, the President of the Society, named General John A. Sutter, the venerable and esteemed pioneer, as his successor, and upon a motion to that effect, the nominee was elected by acclamation.  General Sutter was then conducted by General Gibson to the chair.  General Sutter thanked his associates for the honor they had conferred upon him that evening, and wished he possessed the ability to fill the position as creditably as his predecessor.  The election then proceeded, when the following gentlemen were chosen to the respective offices:</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Vice-Presidents</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>457</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>459</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Treasurer</HI>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Trustees</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Vice-President Gibson presented the name of Reuben Lord for election to honorary membership, as provided in the amendments adopted this evening.  Vice-President Sickels presented the name of Effingham B. Sutton, of New York, and on motion of Colonel Burton, these gentlemen were duly elected.  (Honorary membership is only conferred upon those who are not otherwise eligible, having never been residents of California, but who were identified with the commercial interests of California prior to the 9th of September, 1850.)</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Joseph Evans moved that the sum of $100 be appropriated and placed in the hands of the Secretary, to enable that officer to secure, for the proposed library of the Society, such works on California as are becoming scarce, and apply to its early history and the first stages of the gold discoveries, said fund to be accounted for at the next annual meeting.  Carried.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General Johns moved that all expenditures made by the Treasurer during the past year in the interest of the Society be approved.  Adopted.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Dowling moved that the meeting now adjourn, in order to attend the banquet, and that the President be requested to call a special meeting of the Society at the head-quarters, on Monday evening, Feb. 18th.  Carried.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of the meeting, the Pioneers, with their guests, proceeded to the spacious dining-room, which was profusely and tastefully embellished with the national colors and picturesque mottoes, recalling vividly to mind Pioneer life in California.  A sketch of Sutter's saw-mill, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>458</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>460</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The walls were embellished with placards bearing the following inscriptions: "The Flag-men of 18j6--Sloat, Stockton and Shubrick;" "Stevenson's Regiment New York Volunteers, 1847;" "Gems of the Ocean--Ships <HI REND="italics">Three Brothers</HI>
149.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Young America</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The Pioneers and their guests numbered about one hundred, and as they filed into the dining-room they assembled around the tables, and remained standing while the quartette, under the direction of Mr. Gilbert, accompanied by the orchestra, sang, "Praise God from whom all blessings flow."  General H. G. Gibson, U.S.A., senior Vice-President, presided, and at his side sat General John A. Sutter, President of the Society.  The <HI REND="italics">menu</HI>
149.sgm: was worthy of the world-renowned name, "LELAND," and upon this occasion the Messrs. Lewis and George S. Leland, of the "STURTEVANT," did full honor to the name, while the wines, which were of California vintage, in point of abundance and quality were unexceptionable.  While the orchestra furnished choice and popular selections of music, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>459</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>461</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>An Address of Welcome, by Vice-President GENERAL H. G. GIBSON, U.S.A.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Announcement of Letters from Absentees, by the Secretary.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Poem, "The Land We Adore," composed by SAMUEL C. UPHAM, Esq., a "49er," and read by Mr. J. BERRY.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A Few Remarks by PRENTICE MULFORD, Esq., on "The Old Guard Pioneers of the Diggings."</P>
149.sgm:<P>Song, "Ye Ancient Yuba Miner of the Days of '49," composed, expressly for the occasion, by Mr. S. C. UPHAM, and sung by WM. J. HILL, Esq.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"Reminiscences of the Drama of '49," by Mr. J. J. McCLOSKEY, a Pioneer Actor.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Singing, by a Celebrated Quartette Club.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Popular Selections by the Orchestra.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General H. G. Gibson, the senior Vice-President, delivered the address of welcome to his associates and guests in the following eloquent language:</P>
149.sgm:<P>FELLOW-CALIFORNIANS:--I bid you welcome again tonight on this anniversary of one of the most eventful discoveries--alike advantageous and adventitious--in the history of a nation; an occurrence fraught with blessings and benefits to our whole country, and most prolific in its results and effects; for "Eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, neither have entered into the heart of man, the things which God hath prepared for them," in the inconceivable riches of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>460</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>462</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:resources which that discovery developed.  Thirty years ago, on the patriarchal demesne of a Swiss <HI REND="italics">emigre&acute;</HI>
149.sgm:, whose name has since become world-famous, a little speck of shining metal was found, and, like "a great matter a little fire kindleth," a stream of gold and silver began thenceforth to enrich the earth; succeeded by other wonders, scarcely less marvelous than those with which the fair Scheherezade beguiled her liege lord in the famed Arabian Nights.  In the retrospect which each of us may take to-night, we behold a region superb in its physical features and attractions; delectable in its genial climate, and where <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"with lavish kindness<LB>The gifts of God are strewn"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>in broadcast profusion and ubiquitous richness, needing only the touch of an energetic race of men to "pluck the ripe fruit and gather in the hollow of the hand."  Broad plains stretching "many, many a league onward," the wealth of whose virgin soil was betokened by "the blackness of darkness" of purest loam; watered by noble rivers to which golden streams, mountain torrent and gentle rivulet paid tribute; picturesque valleys with graceful oaks in orchard regularity, and vast fields of indigenous grain--in winter of brightest green, in summer of dazzling gold: all hemmed in by mountain walls, whereon the lofty giants of the wood stood enthroned in majesty and beauty.  Along the coast, amid charming pastoral scenes and surroundings, the humble <HI REND="italics">padres</HI>
149.sgm: of the missions of the grand old church of God taught to the Indian and his dusky mate the faith of Christianity, and the rudest arts of civilized life.  Cattle stood upon a thousand hills, and the noble horse, in all the peerless beauty and strength of unrestrained freedom, pawed the earth over leagues and leagues of golden pasture.  Peace and plenteousness were in the homely <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
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149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Along the cool sequestered vale of life,<LB>They kept the noiseless tenor of their way."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On slope and plain, the grape clusters, brilliant in bloom and luscious in flavor, gladdened the heart of man and filled the air with fragrance; the olive, in "its glossy bower of coolest foliage," mellowed its grateful fruit, beneath the bright sunlit or soft cloud-dimmed sky; and flowers, too, of exquisite hues and manifold variety,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Everywhere about us are they glowing,<LB>Some, like stars, to tell us spring is born;<LB>Others, their blue eyes with tears are flowing,<LB>Stand, like Ruth, amid the golden corn."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The antelope, the deer and the elk browsed upon the luxuriant herbage of forest and field; the grizzly, the lion and the <HI REND="italics">coyote</HI>
149.sgm: roamed through brake, and jungle, and <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
149.sgm:<P>With the war with Mexico, and the alluring discovery which made us Pioneers and Pilgrims of the Golden Land, a wonderful, material change was inaugurated; a revolution wrought in the character, habits and pursuits of the <HI REND="italics">gentes</HI>
149.sgm: of the Californias, whether "native and to the manor born," or <HI REND="italics">los gringos</HI>
149.sgm: from other climes.  "People of every nation, kindred and tongue" flocked to the golden shores, and the serene peace and pastoral beauty of the land was transformed to a scene of bustle, excitement, active life and industry.  To the wondering eyes of the eager throngs, that gathered in her generous <HI REND="italics">placers</HI>
149.sgm:, California, her ample stores,<HI REND="blockindent">"Rich with the spoils of Time, did <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
149.sgm:<LB>and the voice of the miner, as he smote the earth and rock with pick and drill, was heard in the land: "Eureka, aye, gold! glittering gold!"  Beneath genial skies, and with lightsome toil, on the fallow of ages,<HI REND="blockindent">"Hillside, ravine and <HI REND="italics">tule&acute;</HI>
149.sgm: marsh<LB> Soon blossomed as the rose,"</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>462</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>and the husbandmen, oft "reaping where they had not sown," in the assurance of a rich harvest,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"How jocund did they drive their team a-field!<LB>How bowed the woods beneath their sturdy stroke!"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The scant coffers of the world soon shone with the splendor and abundance of the precious ore from California's grand treasure-house; and out of her horn of plenty she yet pours her measures of corn, and wine, and oil, of wool and flax, of rarest gems and richest metals, without stint, without abatement.  But, to rehearse the grand progress of our country, due directly or indirectly to the effect of the golden discovery, to rejoice over which I welcome you here to-night, and greet you in the olden California spirit, time will not allow.  Suffice it to say, that the results of the influence of the riches of her bounty are to be seen, in the wonderful impetus given to every industry; in the solid and brilliant achievements or finer products of plough, anvil and loom, of forest and mine; in the iron bands of commerce, binding the continent together; in the marvelous feat of the modern Ajax, defying and controlling the lightning, and saying, like Puck, "I'll put a girdle round about the earth in forty minutes;" in "cities proud, with spires and turrets crowned," rising in the wilderness as if by magic; in States, "clothed and in their right minds," coming forth out of the gloom of mountain and desert with "glad rejoicings and grateful praise"--"and all men did marvel!"  For, with "the victories of Peace no less renowned than War," the genius of California has added a brighter lustre to the resplendent arms of the Republic; with new jewels set in its proud diadem, new stars in the brilliant firmament of its Union; in the radiant folds of "its glorious ensign, as it floats over the sea and over the land."  [Great applause.]</P>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of General Gibson's address, the Secretary, Mr. Francis D. Clark, arose and announced the receipt of letters of regret from General William T. Sherman, U.S.A., General Joe Hooker, U.S.A., General Francis J. Lippitt, General Joseph M. Revere, Bayard Taylor, Mark <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>463</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>The President then called upon Mr. J. Berry, the elocutionist, who responded to the call and recited, with feeling and emphasis, the poem written by Mr. Samuel C. Upham, entitled, "THE LAND WE ADORE."  This recitation elicited rounds of applause, and cries of "Upham! Upham!" brought that gentleman to his feet, who, in a few appropriate words, thanked his associates for their approval of his humble efforts to do justice to California.  He said he had been so ably represented by proxy, that he feared anything he might say would fall upon their ears as "stale, flat and unprofitable."  Nevertheless, if the poem, so eloquently recited by Mr. Berry, had in any way added to their enjoyment he should consider himself amply repaid for the time spent upon its composition.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The next gentleman called upon was Mr. Prentice Mulford, the California humorist, who spoke as follows about the "OLD GUARD PIONEERS OF THE DIGGINGS:"</P>
149.sgm:<P>MR. PRESIDENT:--An idea largely prevails among the generation born since the American occupation of California, that the pioneer element of the State was in character rude and uncultured.  It is an idea which has been largely owing to the delineations of character given in California literature, so that the Eastern public will accept none other representative for the Pioneer, save the man in overalls and red shirt, knife and pistol at the belt, who uttered an oath at every other word and whose regular beverage was whisky.  Yet this type was the exception in 1849.  The element which rushed into the Territory on the announcement of the discovery of gold, embraced the pick of the energy, enterprise, education and refinement, not only of the Eastern States, but of Europe.  It brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>464</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>I desire, however, to say a word in remembrance of another and less known class of pioneers.  I mean the men who went to California in '49, who never came back, who never made their fortunes, or who, if they did make them never kept them, and who never will come back.  I mean the Old Guard of Pioneers still left in the "Diggin's."  Travel through the mines to-day and you will find it a country full of deserted villages.  Even the mountain roads and trails over which they once packed their pork and flour, tobacco and whisky, from store to camp, are now fading out and overgrown with <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
149.sgm:.  Even the deer and grizzly have in places resumed their old haunts from which they were driven by the goldseekers' invasion.  Travel along those rivers, now deserted, and you will come here and there on lone, blackened chimneys--all that remains of the pioneer's cabin: those chimneys about which the "boys," full then of life, hope and energy, would cluster in the rainy winter evenings and talk of their far-away Eastern homes.  But their fires were long since burned to ashes, and the brilliant anticipations of that time are ashes also.  It is in some nook of the foot-hills, perhaps the only cabin and the last man in the camp, that you find the pioneer to-day.  His coffee-mill is still nailed to the trunk of the over-shadowing tree by his door; his clothes-line is still stretched, and on it flutters his bachelor's washing; his little garden-patch is fenced with old sluice lumber; he keeps a cat, a dog; he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>465</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>These were the men who cooked their own meals, washed their own shirts and mended their own pants--with flour-sacks, the brand on the outside, so that often on passing the honest miner, did you turn your head, you might see prominently graven upon him the words: "Warranted 200 pounds Self-rising Genesee Flour."  Such men as Justice Barry, the first Alcalde of Sonora, Tuolumne County, who, when once on the bench, was reproached by Lawyer Quint with the charge that he (Lawyer Q.) never could get justice in his (Judge Barry's) court, was told by Judge Barry that he (Barry) never intended that Lawyer Quint should get justice in his court.  And my friend Shanks, of Red Mountain, still alive, not thoroughly sober since 1852, and never attired otherwise than in a gray shirt and duck pants, rope-yarned about the waist, who, when one evening at the bar-stove the conversation had taken a theological turn, assured his hearers that the New Testament seemed clear enough until he reached the book of Revelations.  "John Second," he remarked, "had snakes when he wrote that book.  And as for the beast of ten horns--can't scare me with that; been on the most familiar terms with him for the last ten years."</P>
149.sgm:<P>I don't claim for my Argonauts and the Old Pioneer Guard lingering in the foot-hills, that they came to California instigated by high and holy motives.  They came to get gold, to get all they could, to get it as quickly as they could, and to get away with it as quickly as possible.  But thirty years have passed away.  Still they linger.  Their friends and relatives in their native Eastern towns have quite forgotten them.  The friends of former and more stirring days in California have departed.  They have contracted none of those softer ties which make life happier.  They are indeed alone.  The country has, as it were, slipped away from beneath them.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A few years ago I made a pilgrimage to the old familiar ground on the Tuolumne.  I found living between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>466</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:Jacksonville and Don Pedro's Bar, a stretch of 10 or 12 miles, about six white men.  I found at Hawkin's Bar, once numbering near a thousand voters, one solitary miner still delving away at the same bank he worked in '50, and this man--the last man of the camp--his name was--Smith!  The camp had dwindled from hundreds of houses and cabins to fifty; from fifty to ten, and then the river had rolled down a tremendous freshet, covering half the bar with a deposit of alluvium three feet in depth; on this the quickly-springing vegetation had taken root, and the camp site was a jungle of <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
149.sgm:<P>So it roared and murmured and seemed ever in their ears babbling some weird, monotonous story, as they lay sick and dying in their rude miner's bunks--still on and on it roars, babbles and sings an eternal requiem for the forgotton, nameless pioneers who sleep here, while still in some far-away home, wife, mother, sister, brother, friend, wait and weep and long for him in vain.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of Mr. Mulford's address, which was greeted with rounds of applause, the quartette sang "All Honor to the Miner."  General Gibson said that they had with them a distinguished citizen of Brooklyn, who had been elected and re-elected to the Supreme Bench by the unanimous vote of the people  He had known Judge Pratt in the field, and he was a distinguished soldier, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>467</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>Judge Pratt, when the applause had subsided, spoke as follows:</P>
149.sgm:<P>I assure you that I had not the least idea that I should be called upon to make a speech, and I now feel very much as that young man in Brooklyn felt when he was informed that he would have to ride to the funeral of his mother-in-law in the same carriage with his wife.  He replied: "I suppose I will have to do it, but it robs this occasion of all pleasure for me."  [Laughter.]  I can recollect the day when, if a California judge went to England, and was introduced to a gentleman, the latter always responded: "How do you do, Mr. Lynch?"  [Applause and laughter.]  Now, of course, it is not expected, that upon such a sudden call as this, I should be able to say much in favor of Brooklyn.  Still, I can assure you that it is a city of some importance.  We have the greatest park, the greatest bridge, we have had the greatest fire and the longest trial, at which my friend, Judge Neilson, presided.  I presume he has left us for fear that he would be called upon to describe that trial.  There is another thing about Brooklyn that will, no doubt, please a great many gentlemen here.  In a large portion of it, the Heights--the best portion of it in my estimation--they have abolished hell.  There is another thing about Brooklyn, and some gentlemen here may vouch for what I say, it is a place where there is more virtue and more honest office-holders than any other place in the world.  [Laughter.]  In proof of that, I refer to my friend, Mr. Strong.  Now, gentlemen, permit me to say something about California.  It was not my pleasure to go to that country.  I was not blessed with a sight of it, but I regard the settlement of it, in its influence upon this country, in regard to the enterprise, hospitality and honesty of its people, of the greatest importance and benefit.  It was a place where people could go to sleep at night and never fasten their doors, and where, if a stranger arrived at night the doors were thrown open to him and the best the house afforded set <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>468</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>Colonel T. B. Thorpe, a veteran of the Mexican war, and formerly on the staff of General Zachary Taylor, was introduced by the President and received with tumultuous applause.  Colonel Thorpe stated that while employed as a journalist in New Orleans, several years before the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill, a Swede, evidently far gone in consumption, called on him, representing that he was, in his own country, one of the "King's Orphans;"<ANCHOR ID="na-10">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm: that is, he had been educated at a government institution, one of the requirements of which was, that the pupil, after receiving a certain amount of schooling, should travel in foreign lands, record all he saw, put it in his manuscript, and on his return deposit it in the archives of the institution.  In pursuance of this regulation, the Swede had visited California while under Mexican rule.  He remained for several days at Sutter's Fort, enjoying the well-known hospitality of General Sutter.  While there he had made a close examination of the surrounding country, the result of which was a conviction on his part that it abounded <HI REND="italics">richly in gold</HI>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-10">See page 537.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>Before concluding his remarks, Colonel Thorpe called upon General Sutter to ascertain whether any memory of the Swede's visit remained with him.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General Sutter arose and said he did recollect the visit of the Swede, which occurred about thirty-four years ago; that he remembered, on his part, the expression of such opinion regarding the presence of mineral wealth in the neighboring hills.  "But," added the venerable pioneer, "I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>469</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:was too much occupied at the time with other concerns to devote any time or attention to it.  My crops were ripe, and it was imperative that they should be gathered as quickly as possible.  <HI REND="italics">But I do recollect the scientific Swedish gentleman</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Colonel Thorpe also referred to the acquisition of California, its wonderful people, and its rapid march to greatness.  Eloquently he pictured some of the scenes of early days, and addressing General Sutter, paid him a most glowing tribute as a patriot, pioneer and philanthropist, whose name would live in history and be crowned with honors, not won on the battle-field, in the forum, or in political life, but as a benefactor and friend to humanity.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Colonel Edward F. Burton, "The man of '49," who is well-known in California, was brought to his feet by the unanimous call of the assembly, and proceeded to make a few "humble remarks."  He narrated his experience as an <HI REND="italics">honest</HI>
149.sgm:<P>In honor of a number of ladies who had been invited into the hall to hear the singing and speaking, the quartette sang the "Toast to the Ladies."  General Gibson called upon Mr. Clark Bell, a distinguished lawyer of New York, to respond in their behalf, which duty he performed in his usual eloquent and pleasing manner, paying a most fitting tribute to the fair sex.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. J. J. McCloskey, the California pioneer actor, next gave some interesting reminiscences of the drama in 1849.  He said the time was too short to relate all of his experiences.  It would take two or three weeks to do it.  The traveler <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>470</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:from the East in visiting California is struck with the magnificence of the theatres.  They have the finest appointments of any in the world.  Brothers of the buskin in the Golden City now have their yachts, their base ball clubs, stop at the hotels, and wear purple and fine linen.  It was not so in the days of '49.  At that time, when traveling, they trusted to the back of <HI REND="italics">la mula</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. McCloskey next referred to Mrs. Lizzie Bingham, the pioneer actress of California, the first white woman who ever crossed the plains to that State.  He spoke of her as a most remarkable woman, and described her entry into Downieville with her twin babies, in laughable terms.  He also described the death of Mrs. Bingham in a battle at Nicaragua, and closed with a brilliant tribute to her memory.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Colonel Joe Lawrence, an old '49er and veteran newspaper editor, upon being called upon, arose and favored the company with a speech in a most humorous strain.  He singled out of the guests prominent men of the early days, and related in an inimitable manner incidents connected with their early California life.  He said he only intended to give their good points, and they need not tremble for fear of any revelations that might sound harsh.  As the Colonel proceeded, he fairly warmed in his wit, and only that the orchestra broke in with some popular selection, he might have continued two or three hours longer.  Of course, the President censured the leader of the orchestra for the interruption; but too late, the Colonel had resumed his seat.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Secretary Clark arose and said he had intended to have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>471</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>Mr. Joseph S. Spinney delivered a very feeling and eloquent eulogy upon the late Henry Meiggs, of Peru.  He believed if any man had ever repented of an error and tried in all possible ways to show his repentance by acts of charity and restoration, that man was Harry Meiggs, and he firmly believed he had gone to rest with the Saviour of all mankind in the realms above; and, in the words of Holy Writ, he would exclaim, "Let him that hath no sin cast the first stone."  We must all remember that "to err is human, to forgive divine."</P>
149.sgm:<P>The President referred to the death of Colonel John A. Godfrey, late a member of the Society, and called on General Thomas D. Johns for a few words of tribute to his memory, to which the General responded as follows:</P>
149.sgm:<P>MR. PRESIDENT:--This would be a cold world, indeed, did we not sometimes recall the memories of departed friends; and this Society would not be true to one of its professed objects, did it fail to honor, in some befitting manner, the names of those associates who have been taken from us.  During the early eventful years of California, we made the pilgrimage together, each in his allotted sphere.  The varied experiences we have undergone, the excitements and dangers with which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>472</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>During the evening, the quartette sang Mr. S. C. Upham's " <HI REND="italics">Song of the Argonauts; or, the Days of</HI>
149.sgm:<P>YE ANCIENT YUBA MINER, OF THE DAYS OF '49.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Air:--"Fine Old English Gentleman</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I.</P>
149.sgm:<P>To you I'll sing a good old song, made by a Quaker pate,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Of an ancient Yuba miner, who owned no real estate,</P>
149.sgm:<P>But who when asked where he belonged, this son of Uncle Sam,</P>
149.sgm:<P>He scratched his head a moment, then in accents clear and shrill, straightway ejaculated " <HI REND="italics">Yuba Dam</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Did this ancient Yuba Miner, of the days of '49.</P>
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149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>YE ANCIENT YUBA MINER, OF THE DAYS OF '49.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>II.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I'm told that simple was his food, he used no forks nor spoons,</P>
149.sgm:<P>And with old flour and coffee-sacks he patched his trouser-loons;</P>
149.sgm:<P>He was saucy, lousy, ragged, lank, but happy as a clam,</P>
149.sgm:<P>And when interrogated in relation to the location from whence he hailed, he invariably replied, " <HI REND="italics">Yuba Dam</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Did this grizzled Yuba miner, of the days of '49.</P>
149.sgm:<P>III.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On a prospecting tour one day, he struck it very rich,</P>
149.sgm:<P>'Twas on a little mountain stream, forninst the Yuba ditch;</P>
149.sgm:<P>Said he, "this claim of mine I'll sell, my purse the dust will cram,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>But when questioned in relation to his antecedents, and from whence he came, he articulated, " <HI REND="italics">Yuba Dam</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Did this lucky Yuba miner, of the days of '49.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>IV.</P>
149.sgm:<P>He started down to 'Frisco town, this man of no estate,</P>
149.sgm:<P>On mule back first, by water then--but never mind the date,</P>
149.sgm:<P>And on his way they questioned him, this son of Uncle Sam;</P>
149.sgm:<P>They asked him the initials of his front name, the mine from whence he came, and then he placed his hand beside his mouth and roared out, " <HI REND="italics">Yuba Dam</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Did this jolly Yuba miner, of the days of '49.</P>
149.sgm:<P>V.</P>
149.sgm:<P>When he arrived in 'Frisco town, the mud was very deep,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Said he, "my equilibrium now, I surely mean to keep;"</P>
149.sgm:<P>But then the crowd they jostled him, and finally, in a jam,</P>
149.sgm:<P>He was pitched headlong into the mud, and when fished out and asked where he belonged, he sputtered, " <HI REND="italics">Yuba Dam</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Did this wilted Yuba miner, of the days of '49.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>VI.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Into the "El Dorado" then, he went to try his luck,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Said he, "I'll show those gamboliers a little Yuba pluck,</P>
149.sgm:<P>I'll bust their cussed monte bank, for I am nary sham,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>But he soon emerged a wiser but a badly busted individual, and to every question asked him, he replied, " <HI REND="italics">Yuba Dam</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Did this busted Yuba miner, of the days of '49.</P>
149.sgm:<P>VII.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Soon on a stretcher he was laid, with his head all cave&acute;d in,</P>
149.sgm:<P>For the way that they had walloped him, was a shame and awful sin;</P>
149.sgm:<P>All mashed and shattered was his head, as if butted by a ram;</P>
149.sgm:<P>The doctor felt his <HI REND="italics">corpus</HI>
149.sgm:, the parson sung a psalm, and when they asked him from whence he came, he faintly whispered, " <HI REND="italics">Yuba Dam</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Did this dying Yuba miner, of the days of '49.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>VIII.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The coroner soon an inquest held, and then at his command,</P>
149.sgm:<P>They shoved old Yuba in a box, and dumped him in the sand,</P>
149.sgm:<P>At midnight hour they buried him, without show, or pomp, or flam,</P>
149.sgm:<P>And when at the last day Gabriel's trump shall sound, among the early risers, you bet, will be old " <HI REND="italics">Yuba Dam</HI>
149.sgm:<P>That defunct and ancient miner, of the days of '49.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The President called upon Hon. Demas Strong, ex-Supervisor of Brooklyn, President of the <HI REND="italics">first</HI>
149.sgm: City Council of Sacramento City, and acting Mayor of that city after the death of Mayor Bigelow, in the fall of 1850, for a speech.  That gentleman acquiescing, stated that, as it was past midnight, and rather late for speech-making, he would make his remarks brief.  He described his voyage from Panama to San Francisco in the first ship that left the latter harbor after the discovery of gold.  The crews of all previous vessels invariably ran off to the gold-diggings.  The speeches of the evening had recalled memories to his mind which would go down with him to the grave, but he would refrain from putting them into words, as he merely wished to ask those present to put the sentiments expressed into practical form, and use every effort to enroll as members of this Society all the California pioneers throughout the country, so that the Association should number <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>478</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>Among the notable gentlemen present, were ex-Mayor Vance, of New York; Donald McClellan, Esq., President of <HI REND="italics">Pacific Woollen Mills</HI>
149.sgm:, San Francisco; J. W. Simonton, Esq., <HI REND="italics">Associated Press</HI>
149.sgm:; Clark Bell, Esq.; Mr. B. C. Watson, President <HI REND="italics">Grocers' Bank</HI>
149.sgm:, a '49er; James F. Curtis, <HI REND="italics">ex-Chief of Police</HI>
149.sgm: of San Francisco; John McCullough, the <HI REND="italics">Tragedian</HI>
149.sgm:; Colonel Joe Lawrence and S. C. Upham, <HI REND="italics">Pioneer Newspaper Men</HI>
149.sgm: of Sacramento City; Prentice Mulford, the <HI REND="italics">California Humorist</HI>
149.sgm:; J. J. McCloskey and Clay Greene, <HI REND="italics">Playwrights</HI>
149.sgm:; Colonel T. B. Thorpe; and from Brooklyn were Hon. Calvin E. Pratt, <HI REND="italics">Justice of the Supreme Court</HI>
149.sgm:; Hon. Joseph Neilson and George G. Reynolds, <HI REND="italics">Judges of the City Court</HI>
149.sgm:; Hon. Demas Strong, <HI REND="italics">ex-Supervisor</HI>
149.sgm:; Mr. Maxwell, of the <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn Daily Times</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At half-past one o'clock, A.M., the quartette sang the following verses of the " <HI REND="italics">Song of the Argonauts; or, The Days of</HI>
149.sgm: '49." the entire audience joining in the chorus:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Fresh laurel-wreaths we bring to-day,<LB>To crown the Patriarch,<LB>Whose hand unlocked the golden ore,<LB>In gulch and can&tilde;on dark.<LB>Old Pioneer! thy name we still<LB>In all our hearts enshrine;<LB>God's blessing rest upon thy head,<LB>Dear friend of old lang syne!  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm:.--Oh, cherished be for evermore<LB>The days of auld lang syne,<LB>Those golden days--remembered days--<LB>The days of 'Forty-nine.<LB>Hillside, ravine and tule&acute; marsh,<LB>Now blossom as the rose,</HI>
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149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">And 'round Diablo's verdant base<LB>The crystal streamlet flows.<LB>Now glory be to God on high!<LB>Let this our p&aelig;an be--<LB>And peace on earth, good-will to man,<LB>Our prayer, O God, to Thee!  <HI REND="italics">Chorus</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of the singing, the orchestra struck up " <HI REND="italics">Home, Sweet Home</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On Saturday, the day following the banquet, at the special request of Mr. Sarony, the celebrated photographic artist, of New York, General Sutter, Secretary Clark, General Johns and Mr. Samuel C. Upham visited his gallery and sat for imperial portraits.  Mr. Sarony also presented General Sutter with a fine picture of General Albert Pike, of Arkansas, the aged veteran of the Mexican war, and expressed himself much pleased by this visit from so distinguished a personage as General Sutter.</P></DIV>
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149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>RECEPTION TO GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>Formal reception by General Fremont--Notables present--Decorations of the hall--The banquet--Vice-President Gibson's address of welcome--General Fremont's response--Letters of regret read by the Secretary--Speeches, etc.</P>
149.sgm:<P>GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT, Governor of the Territory of Arizona, being on the eve of departure for his official post on the Pacific coast, was tendered a reception at the Sturtevant House, New York, on the evening of the 1st of August, 1878, by his friends and compatriots, "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA."</P>
149.sgm:<P>1843.<HSEP>PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA.<HSEP>1878.<LB><HI REND="bold">RECEPTION</HI>
149.sgm:<LB>TO<LB>GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT,<LB>Governor of Arizona Territory,<LB><HI REND="italics">PREVIOUS TO HIS DEPARTURE FOR THE PACIFIC COAST</HI>
149.sgm:,<LB>BY HIS OLD CALIFORNIA FRIENDS AND ASSOCIATES,<LB>The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California,<LB>AT THEIR HEAD-QUARTERS,<LB><HI REND="italics">STURTEVANT HOUSE</HI>
149.sgm:,<LB>NEW YORK,<LB><HI REND="italics">ON THURSDAY EVENING, AUGUST 1st, 1878</HI>
149.sgm:.<LB>AT 8 O'CLOCK.<LB>FOR CARDS OF ADMISSION ADDRESS THE SECRETARY.<LB>FRANCIS D. CLARK, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:,<HSEP>JOHN A. SUTTER,<LB>16 Cortlandt Street.<HSEP><HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>481</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>The author is indebted to Secretary Clark for the following report:</P>
149.sgm:<P>From eight to nine o'clock, the General held an informal reception in one of the hotel parlors, after which about one hundred of the Pioneers sat down to an elegant supper.  In the absence of the President of the Association, General John A. Sutter, the chair was occupied by General H. G. Gibson, U.S.A., the senior Vice-President.  At his right sat the guest of the evening and his two sons, John C. Fremont, Jr., U.S.N., and Francis Preston Fremont.  Among the members present were ex-Governor R. M. Price, of New Jersey; Joseph Evans, Colonel George D. Brewerton, William H. Rogers, Hon. Francis D. Clark, Charles J. McPherson and Colonel Geo. M. Leonard--the last six were members of the historic "Stevenson's Regiment;"--Hon. William Colligan, Deputy Surveyor E. F. Burton, Colonel E. C. Kemble, first editor of the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The dining-hall was handsomely decorated with mottoes and emblems appropriate to the occasion.  At the head of the hall was an entablature with the following inscription: "Reception to Captain John C. Fremont by Captain John A. Sutter, at Sutter's Fort, California, March 6th, 1844."  At the lower end of the hall was a large cuirass bearing the figure of a grizzly bear, with the word "California" above it and "Pioneers" below.  The tables were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>482</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>484</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>After the company had devoted over one hour to the viands set so temptingly before them, washed down with wines of California vintage of the famous house of Landsburgh &amp; Co., San Francisco, and when coffee had been handed around, and cigars lighted, General Gibson, the chairman, arose and delivered the following eloquent address of welcome:</P>
149.sgm:<P>FELLOW-CALIFORNIANS:--In the absence of our grand old Patriarch and beloved fellow-Pioneer and President, the duty devolves upon me of welcoming our distinguished guest.  I regret that he is not here to-night to express, though only in his tremulous and embarrassed utterances, the same cordial greeting which he gave to his worthy compeer and <HI REND="italics">compadre</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We have met this evening to do honor to an eminent citizen of the Republic and a renowned pioneer, who, as the great Pathfinder of Empire, first disclosed to the nation a knowledge of the rich and attractive country bordering the Pacific, and whose name will, through all coming time, be identified with the exploration of a continent, and with the American occupation and development of the Golden Land.  Traversing with his little band the trackless wastes, forbidding mountains and dense forests lying between the mighty Father of Waters and that magnificent region, whose <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"snow-sierras hide<LB>Huge crystalled rocks of virgin gold.<LB>Adown abrading torrents rolled,<LB>In lucid streams, by summer shoaled,<LB>A golden tide;"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>the youthful explorer in his first enterprisedetermined the physical geography of a vast, unknown territory, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>483</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>For his great and distinguished service to the State, the Government at Washington awarded him promotion in the army, and the new-born Golden State of California a seat in the Senate of the United States.  In later years, bearing the standard of a great political party, he with knightly courage, courtesy and modesty, led it nigh unto victory, and <HI REND="italics">opened the path</HI>
149.sgm: to its subsequent success; and, at a critical period of its fortunes, contributed to its overwhelming triumph and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>484</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>486</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>In his military career, as an officer of engineers, he displayed rare ability, and remarkable fertility of resources and expedients; and as a field officer of the line, added to his fame by the joint conquest, with the gallant Stockton, of the territory of the Californias; and how far the crimes and blunders at at Washington affected his usefulness, success and renown, as a leader and commander of our armies in the late civil war, as of other true and loyal soldiers, who bore the heat and burden of the day, and stood among their fellows high in reputation for wisdom and honor, impartial history must determine<ANCHOR ID="na-11">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-11">The history of the war of the rebellion--written and unwritten--shows that McClellan, Buell, Fitz-John Porter and Stone (an old Californian) were victims of these crimes and blunders, and that Grant, Sherman (an old pioneer) and Thomas came near being crushed in the opening of their careers, or at the zenith of their fame, by the ignorance, prejudice and imbecility at Washington.  That the commanders in the valley of the Shenandoah and in front of Washington were likewise sufferers from these acts and influences must be the verdict of the honest and faithful chronicler of the war.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>But the full measure of reward for his brilliant and eminent services, whose <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"records half-effaced,<LB>Which with the hand of youth he traced<LB>On history's page,"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>has never been conceded nor bestowed.  It is an inherent, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>485</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:perhaps, ineradicable vice of all republics that their great benefactors and heroes are seldom duly honored or rewarded while living--soon neglected or forgotten when dead; and our own Republic can claim no immunity from the vice.  That it may cease to be its reproach and shame should be the fervent prayer of every true patriot; and that when we have done with honoring with "storied urn and animated bust" the genius and heroism of antiquity and of other lands, we may find time and means to demonstrate to the world, that there are those of our own land who have "won a mural crown of towering glory."  May the time yet come when as the golden orb of day sinks to his rest in the bosom of the mighty ocean beyond the portals of the Golden Gate, his parting rays shall shed their golden light on its pinnacles, whereon shall stand the sculptured forms of FREMONT and SUTTER, with the inscription on the one, " <HI REND="italics">The path he trod was the Path to Empire</HI>
149.sgm:;" and on the other, " <HI REND="italics">The golden heart that enriched the Golden Land</HI>
149.sgm:<P>General Fremont, you are about to depart for the vicinity of the scenes of your former labors and signal deeds, and we come as fellow-Pioneers and Californians, to offer to you our earnest congratulations and cordial good wishes.  May health and happiness attend you, and in your new field of employment, may you ever enjoy the approving smiles and favor of a grateful, appreciative people.  As your youth was adorned with fame, may your age be crowned with glory and honor.  For myself, in the remembrance of a pleasant journey together in years gone by, through the beautiful valley of the San Joaquin, "on fields with daisies pied," and "gorgeous flowerets in the sunlight shining," through arid waste and cooling mountain grove--in the remembrance of a kindness done, but as soon forgotten by you, I tender to you the kindliest greeting and most earnest prayer that heart can feel, or voice or hand express.  [Great applause.]</P>
149.sgm:<P>With evident emotion, General Fremont responded as follows:</P>
149.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN:--You would no doubt think it strange if I did <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>486</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>488</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The Governor referred to Arizona as offering the most fruitful field we shall have for American enterprise for some time--a Territory that gives grand promises for the future--a sister that we shall feel proud to honor at no future period in the galaxy of sovereign States.  He gave as a sentiment: "Renewed life to the Society of Pioneers, and prosperity to our brethren wherever they may be found."  [Applause and three cheers for General Fremont.]</P>
149.sgm:<P>Secretary Clark read the following letters from members of the Society and invited guests unable to be present:</P>
149.sgm:<P>PHILADELPHIA, July 30th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>MR. FRANCIS D. CLARK, Secretary Associated Pioneers, T. D. of California, New York-- <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm::--Sickness in my family will, I regret to say, prevent me from participating with you on Thursday evening next in doing honor to an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>487</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>489</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The "Great Golden Medal" for progress in the sciences, sent to him by Baron Humboldt, on behalf of the King of Prussia, his election as an honorary member of the Geographical Society of Berlin, the Founder's Medal, awarded him by the Royal Geographical Society, of London, for his pre-eminent services in promoting the cause of geographical science, attest the high estimation in which he is held by eminent men of letters and of science in the Old World.  His four exploring expeditions--the crowning efforts of his life--in the years 1842, '43, '45 and '48, the three latter being entirely across that portion of this continent lying between the Father of Waters and the Pacific Ocean, are grander in conception and execution than any similar achievements of the present century, and have been prolific of results scarcely dreamed of by their projector.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Westward, like the Star of Empire, the Pathfinder took his way.  His path was neither strewn nor embowered with roses.  Over arid plains, alkali deserts, through trackless forests and yawning can&tilde;ons, over the snow-capped Sierras, surrounded by savage hordes, Fremont and his little band of modern Spartans solved the great problem of a highway between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans; and to-day, over a part of this route, where lie the bones of many of those brave pioneers, unmarked by mound or head-stone, the iron horse, with sinews and nerves of steel and breath of steam, flies over the metallic track so swiftly that space seems to be almost annihilated.</P>
149.sgm:<P>One of those brave Pathfinders, Charles Taplin, was my fellow-townsman.  When he left the old homestead, nestling at the base of the Green Mountains, he was a wild, rollicking youth, but when he returned home a few years later he was remarkably tame and docile; a striking exemplification of the old adage that hunger and mule-steak will tame a crow.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General Fremont's identification with the early history of California, having been elected Governor of that Territory by the American settlers on July 4th, 1846, and his appointment <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>488</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>490</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>His title to this office is not based upon mere political service, and the fact of his not being a "bloated bondholder," serves to show that he did not, while in office, prostitute his position to the purposes of private gain, and it must be gratifying to the recipient to know that this somewhat tardy recognition by the government he has served so well meets with the general approval of the whole country.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In conclusion, I proffer the following sentiment, which I am quite sure my associates will heartily indorse: May the remaining days of our honored guest be as peaceful and tranquil as his former have been active and illustrious.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Fraternally,</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAMUEL C. UPHAM.</P>
149.sgm:<P>WASHINGTON, D.C., July 30th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK, Secretary California Pioneers-- <HI REND="italics">My Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm:<P>It would afford me very great pleasure to form one of your guests on so pleasant an occasion, for General Fremont's name and fame are inseparably connected with the early days of California, the charm of which forms the bond of union to the Society of Pioneers, with its numerous branches all over the country.</P>
149.sgm:<P>As you foresaw, it will be impossible for me to come to New York on the 1st prox.; but I beg you to assure your guest of what he already knows, that he and his may always command <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>489</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>491</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>With great respect, your friend,</P>
149.sgm:<P>W. T. SHERMAN, General.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The reading of the above letters was interrupted by shouts of applause and clapping of hands.  The General arose and made a special acknowledgment to the writers of these two generous and warm-hearted letters.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Extract from a letter received from Mr. John Dolman, of Philadelphia, one of the men of Commodore Stockton's and General Fremont's command, in 1846, now a prominent lawyer of that city:</P>
149.sgm:<P>I am unfortunately unable to be with you to-morrow evening, at the Fremont reception.  I had fully intended to be present, but an argument fixed for three o'clock, P.M., to-morrow, before a Master in Equity, will detain me beyond the hour at which I could take the train for New York, and I could not arrange for a postponement of the argument.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General John A. Sutter, President of the Society, writing from his home at Lititz, Pa., said:</P>
149.sgm:<P>I think it is all right that our Society has tendered a reception to General Fremont, and greatly regret that a recent attack of rheumatism will keep me away.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain D. S. Babcock, President of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, wrote:</P>
149.sgm:<P>I regret exceedingly that circumstances will prevent my attendance at the dinner to General John C. Fremont, to-morrow evening.</P>
149.sgm:<P>From Joseph Evans, Esq., of Newark, N.J., a former member of Stevenson's regiment:</P>
149.sgm:<P>Circumstances may prevent my attending the dinner to General John C. Fremont.  It would afford me great pleasure to assist in doing honor to the great Pathfinder, who is so preeminently a Pioneer of California.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>490</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>Thomas L. James, Esq., Postmaster of New York, replied as follows:</P>
149.sgm:<P>I thank you very cordially for your kindness in inviting me to the reception to General John C. Fremont by your Society, and unless prevented by some unforeseen official engagement, shall do myself the honor of being present.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Messrs. William R. Garrison, George Howes, John S. Ellis, Hon. Demas Strong, Hon. Jeremiah Sherwood, General James F. Curtis and several other members of the Society, sent their regrets, stating that absence from the city with their families would prevent their attendance upon so enjoyable an occasion.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of the reading of letters, the Chairman called upon ex-Governor Rodman M. Price for a speech, who, in response, related incidents about the occupation of Monterey in 1846.  He spoke of the contemplated presence of General Fremont in Arizona as a promise of protection to all citizens.  He felt sure that his former associate would serve with such distinction and prestige that thousands of emigrants would follow in his footsteps.  He looked forward to the time when, in two or three years at the most, Arizona would cease to be a Territory and would become a State.  Gov. Price also hinted at the possibility of the acquisition of the Mexican State of Sonora in the near future.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Colonel T. B. Thorpe, in answer to a call, made a very neat and complimentary speech, and in the course of his remarks compared General Fremont to Jason, put pointed out one great difference between the two.  Jason was reported to have had the very worst wife ever known, while the General had the best that could have been chosen among the American people.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Secretary Clark, in a short speech, referred to the fact of this day being the thirty-second anniversary of "Stevenson's Regiment" going upon Governor's Island, New York harbor, preparatory to setting forth on the voyage to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>491</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>Hon. Wm. Colligan, who was present at the hoisting of the American flag at Monterey, was called upon for a speech, but said he <HI REND="italics">couldn't</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Secretary Clark called attention to the fact that no name is so inseparably connected with the explorations of General Fremont as that of Kit Carson, but that gentleman had long since departed this life; but we had with us this evening a gentleman who made that celebrated ride, in company with Kit Carson, from California to New Mexico, in 1848.  That gentleman was Colonel George D. Brewerton, a lieutenant in Stevenson's Regiment.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In response to the call of the assembled company Colonel Brewerton arose.  In appearance he is tall and finely formed, with grizzled hair and whiskers, polished in his language, and would hardly be recognized as the same person whose portrait adorns the front of a work on Kansas published in 1856, dressed in buckskin shirt, cap and pants, with a rifle over his shoulder.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Colonel B. said he had sat listening this evening with intense interest to every word that had dropped from the lips of the speakers, and even now he could scarcely realize that it was not all a dream.  Was he really awake, or was he once more amid the scenes of his younger days? days of so much pleasure and adventure upon the Pacific coast in the years of 1847 and '48.  I am asked to speak of Kit Carson--not the Kit Carson we read about in the dime novels and other sensational literature of the present day, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>492</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>494</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Colonel E. F. Burton, Deputy Surveyor of the port of New York and a member of the Society, being called upon for "a few remarks," said, "It was a great pleasure for this Society, the Associated Pioneers of--well, I cannot recall the balance of our title, but friend Clark over in the corner can give it to you, as he has studied it all by heart--to have General Fremont with us this evening, but he really did not think it was us that did the honor, for all the honor came from General Fremont himself.  It was he that had honored us.  He had a name that was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>493</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>495</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Colonel E. C. Kemble, in answer to a call, made a short speech, in which he spoke of his arrival in California on July 31st, 1846, in the ship <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn</HI>
149.sgm:, in company with Mr. Samuel Brannan and the Mormon emigrants.  He gave a very graphic account of that terrible march down the coast in the month of December, 1846, and of their sufferings on the night of Christmas, when officers and men laid down in a drenching storm without shelter or food.  Colonel Kemble said that until Mr. Colligan arose he had supposed he and General Fremont were the only ones present who participated in that march.  Colonel Kemble also spoke very feelingly of his old comrade and partner, Mr. Edward Gilbert, a lieutenant of Stevenson's regiment, both of whom were connected with the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Other speeches were made by Messrs. J. P. Curry, John P. Bidwell (nephew of Mr. John Bidwell, of Chico, California), Judge Curtis, a '49er, and Colonel W. L. Tidball.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. James J. McCloskey, spoke of the recent death of Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence, a gentleman who was so well known in San Francisco, and referred to the fact that Colonel Lawrence was laid between the graves of one brother-in-law and one cousin, both of whom had occupied the position of Mayor of this great city.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Among the pleasant features of the evening was the sending from the festive board of a magnificent basket of flowers, with the name "Jessie" inscribed in floral letters, to Mrs. General Fremont at her residence in West Twenty-second Street, and in about one hour the following response was returned, written upon one of Mrs. F.'s cards:</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>494</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>My grateful thanks for the lovely form of remembrance from the Pioneers.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JESSIE BENTON FREMONT.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The reception closed at a late hour, with long continued cheers for the veteran American explorer and the chief hero of the romantic history of the discovery, possession and settlement of the gold regions of the great West.  The whole entertainment reflected great credit upon the New York Society of California Pioneers, and General Fremont will take fresh courage from this kindly greeting of his old friends.</P></DIV>
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149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>497</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>RECEPTION TO HON. PHILIP A. ROACH.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>The banquet--General H. Gates Gibson's address of welcome--Senator Roach's response--Letters of regret--Notables present--Speeches, etc.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ON the arrival of Hon. Philip A. Roach, ex-President of the "Society of California Pioneers," in New York, in the summer of 1876, he was tendered a reception by "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA," at the Sturtevant House, in that city, on the evening of June 19th.</P>
149.sgm:<P>RECEPTION</P>
149.sgm:<P>TO THE</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. PHILIP A. ROACH,</P>
149.sgm:<P>OF SAN FRANCISCO,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Ex-President of the Society of California Pioneers,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">On his First Visit to the Atlantic Coast since the Spring of 1849, by</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California,</P>
149.sgm:<P>At their Head-quarters, Sturtevant House, New York City,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Monday Evening, June 19th, 1876,</P>
149.sgm:<P>At 9 o'clock.</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK,<HSEP>H. G. GIBSON,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Secretary and Treasurer.<HSEP>Brevet Brig.-Gen. U.S.A., President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The following account of the reception and banquet is compiled from a report in the <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A reception was given last evening by the Pioneers of California, at the Sturtevant House, to Hon. Philip A. Roach, of San Francisco, this being his first visit to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>496</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>498</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>FELLOW-CALIFORNIANS:--You are aware of the purpose for which we have assembled this evening--to welcome our esteemed guest and brother-Pioneer, on the occasion of his return to the scenes of his boyhood, after an absence of twenty-seven years; and on a mission which commends itself to the approval of all, who have at heart the welfare of California and of our country.  You will excuse me, therefore, whilst I address a few words of greeting and remembrance to my old friend and associate of the halcyon days of the Golden Land.</P>
149.sgm:<P>SENATOR ROACH:--As an old and honored citizen of California, and as one of her prominent Pioneers, the Associated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>497</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>499</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:Pioneers of her Territorial Days have tendered you this reception; and in their name, I bid you a cordial, hearty welcome, on this your first visit to the Atlantic coast, since you left it in the heyday of youth, to participate in the exciting and glorious scenes and events of 1849.  This duty is especially grateful to me, not only as your personal friend of auld lang syne, but also as the friend and companion of your brother, who, in the early days of California, perished in the wild mountain-stream, and who sleeps in the ancient chapel of the Mission, founded by the fathers of the grand old church of Christendom, and beside whose tomb the praise of song, and prayer, and incense ever ascend to the Almighty.  In this greeting of mine to-night, however, I would not recall aught save the delightful recollections, connected with him, with you, and with the many episodes and incidents of our life in California in years long past.  Familiar names, faces and scenes come to mind, with pleasurable emotions, and with almost vivid reality.  Monterey and its old redoubt--historic from association with the American conquest, and where many of the noted and unnoted heroes of the nation once quartered; the little social gatherings, at which with "John Ph&oelig;nix," Alfred Sully, Selim Woodworth, Jack Hamilton, Joe Boston, William Chevers and Theron Per Lee, the wit and "fun grew fast and furious," amid "riot most uncouth," though not unpleasant.  And then, too, with Tom Roach and Jack Durivage, traversing the beautiful valley of the San Joaquin; with the hills and plains in rich verdure clad, and "bright and shining flowers," of every hue and exquisite variety, "springing from out the silent ground;" or in the graceful groves of oak, and on the borders of crystal, golden streams, where in the quiet evening-camp, Tom Roach <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"lent to the rhyme of the poet<LB>The beauty of his voice;<LB>And the night <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
149.sgm: filled with music,<LB>And the cares that infest the day,"</HI>
149.sgm:<P>were dispersed, by his sweet melody and song of "Ochone!  Widow Machree!"  More I might revive of these <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"pictures of memory, long since hung away,<LB>And faded by age, or the dust of the past;"</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>498</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>500</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>more I might recall of "the friends so linked in love together;" but I forbear lest "chewing the cud of sweet and bitter fancies" and recollections, mingled as they are in human life, I should touch those tender chords of feeling, whose music "flows with" sacred and "sweet meanings for the heart alone."  But our hearts must have become cold, indeed, from contact with the world, sadly hardened by the cares and sorrows of life, did they fail to respond to the thoughts and emotions aroused by your presence with us.</P>
149.sgm:<P>As the representative of the Pioneer element of California; as the last Alcalde and first Mayor of her ancient capital; as a leading journalist and distinguished Senator of the noble Golden State, we are glad and proud to do you all honor; but the memories of sweet friendships, formed and cemented, amid the novel and inspiring scenes of our youth in California, when the heart was fresh and sincere, and "unspotted from the world," require of us a greeting and welcome, as warm as that which I now give you, on behalf of this Society.  If I have failed to express, in fitting language, all that I feel on this occasion, or to convey to you, in glowing words, a most cordial welcome, you must attribute it to the poverty of the brain, not the poverty of the heart.  May God bless and prosper you all the days of your life; may greater honors in the future await you, and may you ever find in the hearts of your friends in California and elsewhere, a corner as fresh and green, as that which you find in our own to-night.  [Great applause.]</P>
149.sgm:<P>When Mr. Roach arose to respond, tears filled his eyes and his voice was husky with emotions he tried hard to conceal.  "Fellow-pioneers," said he, "I have lived an active life in California, and I have not often been so much taken by surprise as to lose my speech, but the General has surprised me to that extent just now; he has recalled memories and awakened old feelings in my heart that check my utterance.  I see before me many of the men who assisted in making the State of California.  I see the first editor, I see the old Collector.  My mind wanders back to the time when we were all brothers together.  I feel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>499</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>501</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The Secretary, Mr. Francis D. Clark, next read many letters of regret.  General Joe Hooker sent his greeting and his sympathy.  General Sherman regretted that a recent visit to West Point made it impossible for him to leave his post at this time.  Colonel Burton, General Edward F. Beale and Mark Twain likewise sent regrets.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The following is General Beale's letter:</P>
149.sgm:<P>LAFAYETTE SQUARE,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WASHINGTON, D.C., June 17th, 1876.</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK, Esq., Secretary of the Society of "The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California," New York-- <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The high respect I have for Mr. Roach, his eminent services to the State we all love so much, and his honorable career during so many years' residence in California, all combine to render my regret at not being able to attend the more keen.  I have had the honor, pleasure and satisfaction of Mr. Roach's acquaintance for very many years and, although I do not agree with him in political sentiment, I believe there is no purer or more patriotic citizen on the Pacific coast, and I think we can well honor him who has so long and so ably stood as one of the best representative men of dear old California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>With great respect, your friend and obedient servant,</P>
149.sgm:<P>E. F. BEALE.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A letter was also read from Samuel C. Upham, of Philadelphia, extending an offer from that gentleman to write an appropriate song to the air of "Auld Lang Syne," to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>500</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>502</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:sung at the grand re-union of Californians, which is to be held at Philadelphia on the 9th of September next, which offer was received with applause.  After this, speeches followed fast and furious.  Mr. E. C. Kemble, an early Californian editor, one of the founders of the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
149.sgm:<P>At one end of the room hung the old pioneer banner, and until late at night the gentlemen sat at the table gazing upon the emblematic bear, telling tales of long ago and discussing the present and future prosperity of the "land of gold."  Among the guests were Mr. John Sickels, Mr. W. B. Farwell, General Thomas D. Johns, John A. Godfrey, O. H. Pierson, W. M. Walton, Colonel James E. Nuttman, John J. Hager, General James F. Curtis, E. C. Kemble, Hon. J. Sherwood, J. H. Butler, H. B. Hawkins, Hon. Beverly C. Sanders, Benjamin W. Jenness, E. W. Crowell, John Gault, Robert W. Dowling, Alfred T. Goodell, and other '49ers.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Later in the evening, Mr. Roach was again called to his feet in response to some remarks made by gentlemen present, who had referred to the fact that, notwithstanding Mr. Roach was a bachelor, he had always been the champion of the female sex, and had fought hard in the legislative halls of California to insure to them all just and womanly rights, and that as far back as 1852 he had been the author and advocate of a law, still in force in the Golden State, permitting women to transact business in their own name, and to enjoy the fruit of their industry; the law protecting them against the abuse or extravagance of dissolute husbands, and that during the past winter, as Senator from San Francisco, he had obtained the passage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>501</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>503</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. Beverly C. Sanders, who was one of the early Collectors of the port of San Francisco, arose in response to the call of the company, and made some very humorous remarks.  Among other things, he said that when he was an officer of the government, the officers, as a general rule, considered that the money which came into their hands belonged to the government, but they had arrived at a much higher degree of intelligence since that time.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The banquet was an enjoyable affair, and will long be remembered by the '49ers of the Atlantic coast.</P></DIV>
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149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>504</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV> 
149.sgm:<HEAD>DEDICATION OF THE LICK MONUMENT AT FREDERICKSBURG, PA.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">En route</HI>
149.sgm:<P>THE following report of the dedication of the Lick Monument was prepared expressly for, and published originally in, <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
149.sgm:<P>PHILADELPHIA, April 25th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRIEND MURGOTTEN:--Presuming that an account of the unveiling and dedication of the Lick Monument, at Fredericksburg, Lebanon County, Pennsylvania, on the 22d instant, will interest the readers of <HI REND="italics">The Pioneer</HI>
149.sgm:, I will endeavor to perform the task as briefly as possible.  I left Philadelphia on Saturday last, 20th instant, at half-past three o'clock, P.M., on the Reading Railroad, and at Lebanon took the Tremont branch road for Jonestown, 7 miles distant, where I arrived at eight o'clock the same evening, and remained over night.  Jonestown, situated on both sides of Swatara Creek, is a thrifty inland town, consisting of a single street and a population of about eight hundred inhabitants.  After breakfast on the following (Sunday) morning, I engaged a team, and with Mr. Simon Desh as guide and interpreter, started for Fredericksburg, about 4 miles distant, and 85 miles from Philadelphia, where I arrived at about ten o'clock, A.M.  A <HI REND="italics">patois</HI>
149.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>503</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>505</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:called by the natives "Pennsylvania Dutch," is spoken almost exclusively in Lebanon and Berks Counties, and an interpreter is required by any one not familiar with that language.  The scenery <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm: was magnificent.  Large fields of waving grain gladdened the eye in every direction, and the apple and pear-blossoms perfumed the air with their fragrance.  The land between Jonestown and Fredericksburg is mostly owned by the Dunkards, a thrifty but parsimonious sect.  Mr. Desh, my companion, informed me that whenever a coin of the realm came into their possession, they squeezed it so tightly that the Bird of Freedom invariably shrieked.<ANCHOR ID="na-12">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-12">Since the above was written, I have been informed by Mr. John H. Lick, that on Dedication day, Mr. Gible, living on the Jonestown road, and Mr Oberholtzer, residing in the eastern part of the town, dined one hundred and fifty persons, for which they declined to receive any remuneration; thus verifying the aphorism, that the devil is not as black as he is sometimes painted.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>Fredericksburg, formerly Stumptown, is one of the oldest towns in the Lebanon Valley, and was founded by Frederick Stump, a pioneer and Indian-fighter, in 1755.  In after years, as the town increased in wealth and population, the old burghers dropped the name of Stumptown and dignified it with the title of Fredericksburg, derived from Stump's Christian name.  The old villagers don't like to be reminded of the former name of their town.  If any one desires to know whether "cuss words" are obsolete, let him say Stumptown to a Fredericksburger.  It is said of Stump, that while on a hunting expedition in the vicinity of Harrisburg, he amused himself one morning by slaying, single-handed, ten drunken Indians, whose bodies he shoved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>504</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>506</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Fredericksburg contains at this time nine hundred inhabitants, and, like Jonestown, is surrounded by a rich farming country.  Several of its citizens count their wealth by hundreds of thousands of dollars.  The brothers J. W. and E. Grove, who own the largest ironworks in Pennsylvania, located at Danville, are natives of this town, and I visited them at their spacious mansion on its southern out skirts.  The Groves own one of the largest, if not the very largest, farm in Lebanon County.  It is about a mile in width and extends several miles in length.  They are millionaires.  John H. Lick, before the death of his father, was reported to be worth $25,000, made in the mercantile business in this quaint old town.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The town is mostly built on Main or Market Street, a quarter of a mile in length, running east and west, in the centre of which there is a small square or market-place.  Centre, Mechanic and Pinegrove Streets cross Market Street at right angles, running north and south.  The buildings are mostly frame, with an occasional brick front blushing between its whitewashed neighbors, and forming an agreeable contrast.  At the south-west corner of Market and Pinegrove Streets, is a large plot of ground surrounded on two sides by horse-chestnut trees with whitewashed trunks, owned by John H. Lick.</P>
149.sgm:<P>About midway, and on the north side of Market Square, stands a two-story red frame house, somewhat rickety with age, in which James Lick's father kept a hotel some fifty years ago.  Against the small glass window over the front door is "J. Lick," formed of rudely-carved letters.  Half a square east of the old Lick Hotel, on the same side of the street, stands a recently-built two-story brick building, on the site of the house in which the mother of James Lick died in the year 1812.  The old house was destroyed by a conflagration in the year 1827, in which more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>505</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>507</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>From a Photo by Bradley &amp; Rulofson, San Francisco.</P>
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149.sgm:one-half of the buildings of the town were burned. James Lick was born on the 25th of August, 1796, in a log or block-house, still standing, about two miles west of the village of Fredericksburg.<ANCHOR ID="na-13">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-13">The house in which James Lick was born, like the birthplace of Homer, seems to be a mooted question.  I have the authority of George Brutzman, John Desh and Jacob Buchmoyer, old residents of Fredericksburg, for stating that James Lick was born in the old block-house, two miles west of the village of Fredericksburg.  John H. Lick is of the opinion that his father was not born in that house.  <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
149.sgm:<P>John Lick, father of James, was born on September 13th, 1765, in Montgomery County, Pa., and removed to Fredericksburg, then Stumptown, when a young man.  He was a carpenter and joiner by profession, and one of the most ingenious workers in wood in that section of the state.  He married in Fredericksburg, and both he and his wife died there.  James inherited his father's mechanical talent.  Their remains lie in the old Reformed and Lutheran graveyard, on the east side of Pinegrove Street, on a slight eminence, commanding a fine view of the village.  Their graves are some twenty feet apart, without headstones, each being inclosed by a plain iron railing, erected by their grandson, John H. Lick, in the year 1867.</P>
149.sgm:<P>During the afternoon, I made the acquaintance of John Desh, a hale old man of seventy-eight years, who never enjoyed the luxury of a law-suit in his life.  He smokes and chews tobacco, and occasionally indulges in a glass of lager for his stomach's sake.  Jacob Weaber, also aged seventy-eight years, is a chum of Desh, and the two old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>508</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>510</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:burghers are fast friends.  They are the men whom the poet probably had in his mind's eye when he wrote-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Their hours in cheerful <HI REND="italics">smoking</HI>
149.sgm: flew,<LB>Nor envy nor ambition knew."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>James Lick visited Fredericksburg only once after his departure in the year 1819, and no one living in the old town at this time can say positively in what year he returned, but incline to the belief that it was in the year 1832--"thar or tharabouts."  One old burgher informed me that he was loaded down with doubloons, which he carried in belts around his body.  He came to Fredericksburg with a horse and buggy, which on his departure, about two weeks after his arrival, he presented to his brother William.  The horse died soon after; the buggy was then sold, and the proceeds, $100, were given to John H. Lick when he attained his majority.  This amount represented one-third of the capital with which he started business.  His education was paid for by one of his uncles.  Jacob Buchmoyer, a cordwainer, now in his seventy-eighth year, was an intimate friend and schoolmate of James Lick.  I had, with the aid of an interpreter, a long talk with the old gentleman, who showed me a relic he had preserved many years and which he still treasures highly.  It was a piece of one of the leg-bones of the horse James Lick presented to his brother William, on his visit to Fredericksburg in the year 1832.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John H. Lick lived in Lebanon and Centre Counties from the time of his birth, June 30th, 1818, until he joined his <HI REND="italics">paterfamilias</HI>
149.sgm:, in California, in 1855.  On his first visit to the Golden State, John remained with his father about three years.  In about one year after his return to the old homestead he again visited his father in California, who sent him on a tour in Europe; after visiting Germany, France and England, he returned to California, where he remained with his father until August, 1871, when he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>509</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>511</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>From a Photo by Houseworth &amp; Co., San Francisco.</P>
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149.sgm:returned East, where he remained until the death of his father, in the fall of 1876, when he again visited California, where he now resides.  When John received his father's summons from California, in 1852, he was engaged in mercantile business in his native town, and replied that he could not dispose of his store and settle up his business without great pecuniary sacrifice.  The following characteristic reply was soon afterward received from the senior Lick: " <HI REND="italics">If you can't sell your store, give it away.  Come at once.  I have enough for both of us</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From the fall of 1859 until 1863, John had the entire supervision of his father's flour-mill, near Alviso.  The net profits during those three years were $52,000.  In consequence of ill-health, John returned East in the year 1863, and during his absence, owing to some trouble with his successor, his father closed the mill.  In 1868, the old gentleman offered to sell the property, which had cost him $500,000, for $250,000, but could not find a purchaser, and in the year 1872 he donated it to the "Tom Paine Society," of Boston.  The Paineites, finding that they had an elephant on their hands, sold the property to Pfister &amp; Waterman for $18,000, who converted it into a papermill.  The sale of the mill displeased Mr. Lick very much.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John H. Lick is highly respected by his fellow-townsmen, and his return from California will be hailed by them with exceeding great joy.  I am indebted to Mr. George Brutzman, of Fredericksburg, for the following genealogy of John, father of James, Lick's family:</P>
149.sgm:<P>John Lick, father of James Lick, born September 13th, 1765, and died June 13th, 1831.</P>
149.sgm:<P>James Lick, the eldest son, born August 25th, 1796, in Stumptown, now Fredericksburg, Dauphin County, Pa. (Lebanon County, in which Fredericksburg is situated, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>512</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>514</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The second child was born July 25th, 1797.  It died in infancy.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John Lick, born May 24th, 1798, in Bethel Township, Dauphin County, Pa.  The sponsors were Christian Long and Molly Gettel.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Catharine Lick, born January 8th, 1800, in Bethel Township, Dauphin County, Pa.  Catharine Licken was her godmother.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Sarah Lick, born August 27th, 1802, in Bethel Township, Dauphin County, Pa.  Sponsors, Conrad Reinoehl and wife.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Jacob Lick, born January 25th, 1804.  Baptized March 1st, 1804.  Sponsor, Jacob Weaber.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Margretta Lick, born September 27th, 1806, and baptized on the 6th of the following March.  Margretta Weaber officiated as godmother.</P>
149.sgm:<P>William Lick, born February 11th, 1808, in Bethel Township, Lebanon County, Pa., and baptized April 16th, the same year, by the Rev. George Lochman.  His sponsors were his parents.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Margretta Lick, born April 11th, 1816, in Bethel Township, Lebanon County, Pa.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Cedar Hill Cemetery, in which the Lick Monument is erected, is situated on an elevated piece of ground, embracing about four acres, about a quarter of a mile north-east of Market Square.  William, brother of James, was the projector of the cemetery.  The land was purchased and inclosed in the year 1869.  The first person buried in the cemetery was Daniel H. Eisenhaur, September 20th, 1869.  Since that time, to April 22d, 1878, one hundred and sixty interments have been made in the cemetery.  About one hundred feet west of the Lick Monument, in a plot of ground inclosed by a tasteful iron railing, lie the remains of William Lick.  A plain obelisk of Italian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>513</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>515</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>WILLIAM LICK,</P>
149.sgm:<P>BORN FEBRUARY 11TH, 1808,</P>
149.sgm:<P>DIED DECEMBER 21ST, 1872.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Aged 64 years, 10 mo's, 10 days.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Lick Monument stands in the eastern section of the cemetery, in a commanding position, and its symmetrical shaft, surmounted by the Goddess of Liberty, resting her right hand on a shield and grasping with her left a partially-folded flag, can be seen for many miles.  It stands on a secure foundation, composed of no less than sixty-five perches of stone laid in cement.  The interior is solid brick work--ten thousand bricks being used to fill it up.  The monument contains one hundred and fifteen pieces of Scotch granite, from the famed Aberdeen quarry, several of which weigh over two tons each, and its entire weight is one hundred and seventy-five tons.  It also contains nine statues of Italian marble, the Goddess of Liberty being eight and a half feet in height.  There are also four large urns of the same material.  The contractor and sculptor, Mr. Robert Reid, of Montreal, Canada, shipped the monument by rail to Jonestown, four miles distant from Fredericksburg, it was transported from that place to the cemetery by wagons and other vehicles, furnished by the farmers of the neighborhood.  Three experts came with the monument, and were engaged about two months in its erection.  The monument is sixteen feet square at its base, and its extreme height is thirty-five feet and six inches.  At the four corners, a few feet above the base, standing on projections or pedestals, are four life-size female figures, each holding a scroll, on which is engraved respectively the following appropriate Scriptural mottoes: At the south-east corner, "Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord;" south-west corner, "He being dead, yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>514</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>516</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>COMMEMORATIVE</P>
149.sgm:<P>of the services rendered by</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLIAM LICK,</P>
149.sgm:<P>(GRANDFATHER OF JAMES LICK,)</P>
149.sgm:<P>AT VALLEY FORGE</P>
149.sgm:<P>and in other struggles of the Revolutionary War</P>
149.sgm:<P>for American Independence:</P>
149.sgm:<P>Who died in Montgomery County, Pa.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>at the age of</P>
149.sgm:<P>One Hundred and Four Years.</P>
149.sgm:<P>There is a tablet of the same size on each of the three other sides.  The one on the east side bears the following inscription:</P>
149.sgm:<P>IN MEMORY OF</P>
149.sgm:<P>CATHARINE LICK,</P>
149.sgm:<P>(SISTER OF JAMES LICK,)</P>
149.sgm:<P>Who was born at Fredericksburg, Penna.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>January 8th, 1800;</P>
149.sgm:<P>Died at Manheim, Penna.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>April 10th, 1862.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>515</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>517</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LICK MONUMENT, FREDERICKSBURG, PA.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>On the north side:</P>
149.sgm:<P>IN MEMORY OF</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN LICK,</P>
149.sgm:<P>(FATHER OF JAMES LICK,)</P>
149.sgm:<P>Who was born September 13th, 1765;</P>
149.sgm:<P>Died June 13th, 1831.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Also in Memory of</P>
149.sgm:<P>SARAH LICK, (HIS WIFE,)</P>
149.sgm:<P>Who died at Fredericksburg, A.D., 1812,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Aged Forty Years.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On the west side:</P>
149.sgm:<P>THIS MONUMENT, ERECTED IN 1876,</P>
149.sgm:<P>BY</P>
149.sgm:<P>JAMES LICK,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WHO WAS BORN AT</P>
149.sgm:<P>FREDERICKSBURG, PENNA.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>August 25th, 1796;</P>
149.sgm:<P>DIED, AT SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA,</P>
149.sgm:<P>October 1st, 1876.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The monument was erected at a cost of $20,000, and, as a work of art, reflects great credit upon the sculptor.  For beauty of design and elegance of finish, it is unequaled by any monument of its size in the United States, and the gentlemen composing the Lick Trust have shown excellent judgment and taste in their selection of a design which has been so skillfully and artistically executed by the contractor.</P>
149.sgm:<P>During Sunday the wind blew a gale from the north-west, and Mr. Reid was fearful that he would not be able to keep the monument covered until the time for unveiling arrived, but fortunately the wind went down with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>518</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>520</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>At an early hour on Monday morning, the people from the adjacent towns commenced flocking into Fredericksburg, and the old town was thoroughly awakened from its sleep of one hundred and fifty years.  At noon there were over six thousand persons present, and the two hotels, private residences and streets were filled to their utmost capacity.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The dedication ceremonies were under the supervision of a committee of citizens of Fredericksburg, with Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, of Lebanon, as chairman.  Colonel Gobin was the head and front of the affair, and most admirably did he perform the duties intrusted to him.  In addition to being chairman of the committee of arrangements, he was orator of the day, and also Commander of the Hermit Commandery, Knights Templar, of Lebanon.  Chief Marshal, Dr. A. W. Shultz, assisted by Augustus Behney, J. Kephart and I. J. W. Fox, formed the procession on Pinegrove Street, at one o'clock, P.M., in the following order:</P>
149.sgm:<P>1.  Committee of Reception.</P>
149.sgm:<P>2.  Committee of Arrangements.</P>
149.sgm:<P>3.  S. C. Upham, representative of "The Society of California Pioneers," and Mr. Robert Reid, contractor and sculptor of the monument.</P>
149.sgm:<P>4.  Perseverance Band, of Lebanon, Pa.</P>
149.sgm:<P>5.  Grand Lodge Officers, Knights Templar; Grand Recorder, Chas. E. Meyer; Grand Treasurer, M. Richards Muckle&acute;; Grand Prelate, Rev. D. Washburn.</P>
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149.sgm:<P>6.  Hermit Commandery, No. 24, Knights Templar, 76 men, Adam Rise, Eminent Commander.</P>
149.sgm:<P>7.  Invited Guests.</P>
149.sgm:<P>8.  Fredericksburg Band.</P>
149.sgm:<P>9.  Thirteen girls dressed in white, with blue sashes and red ribbons, carrying a flag.</P>
149.sgm:<P>10.  Millersburg Band.</P>
149.sgm:<P>11.  Citizens, four abreast.</P>
149.sgm:<P>12.  Choir, composed of twelve ladies and six gentlemen.</P>
149.sgm:<P>13.  Pinegrove Band.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The procession marched down Pinegrove Street to Market, down Market to Centre, out Centre to Locust, down Locust to Mechanic, down Mechanic to Market, up Market to Pinegrove, and out Pinegrove to the cemetery.</P>
149.sgm:<P>CEREMONIES AT THE CEMETERY.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1.  Music.</P>
149.sgm:<P>2.  Prayer by the Rev. Daniel Washburn, Grand Prelate of the Knights Templar, of Pennsylvania.</P>
149.sgm:<P>3.  "Star Spangled Banner," by a choir of ladies and gentlemen.</P>
149.sgm:<P>4.  Address by Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, of Lebanon, Pennsylvania.</P>
149.sgm:<P>5.  Music.</P>
149.sgm:<P>6.  Address by Samuel C. Upham, of Philadelphia, representative of "The Society of California Pioneers."</P>
149.sgm:<P>7.  Dedication of Monument, by Hermit Commandery.</P>
149.sgm:<P>8.  Music.</P>
149.sgm:<P>9.  Benediction, by Grand Prelate Washburn.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of the music by the Perseverance Band, the Knights were ordered to uncover, and Grand Prelate Washburn delivered, in a deep and sonorous voice, the following impressive and appropriate prayer:</P>
149.sgm:<P>Almighty Lord and Saviour, before the mountains were brought forth, or ever the earth and the world were made, Thou art God from everlasting to everlasting.  In Thy name we assemble, even the name of Immanuel, under the auspices of the Masonic Brotherhood of Knights Templar of Pennsylvania, to dedicate this monument of James Lick, with his ancestors and kindred.  To Thee, O God, in whom we live, do we give thanks for our being, our reason, and all the faculties of our souls and bodies.  We thank Thee for all the blessings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>520</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>522</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of the prayer, the "Star Spangled Banner" was rendered in fine style by the choir.  Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, orator of the day, being introduced by Hon. F. M. Bachman, delivered the following eloquent address:</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRIENDS AND FELLOW-CITIZENS:--The occasion of our assembling at this time and in this beautiful cemetery, is one fraught with more than ordinary interest.  Representative men from the far distant shores of the Pacific; officials from our own and other States; numbers of those who bear the banner of the cross, rendered immortal by the martial deeds of the Knights of the Temple of old, amid the sands of Syria--a vast concourse of our fellow-citizens from the surrounding country, have gathered to show their appreciation of the heart <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>521</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>523</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Another thought suggested, and which cannot fail to impress the most casual observer, is in the fact, that in the erection of this monument we have so striking an illustration of the wonderful growth of our nation, and what is susceptible of being done by a citizen within it, of energy, genius and pluck.  In imagination, and passing before you as a panorama, you can behold the boy James Lick, the child in your village streets, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>522</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>524</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>From a work entitled "Representative Men of California," we learn some facts relative to him:</P>
149.sgm:<P>James Lick was born in the village of Fredericksburg, within a short distance of where we are now assembled, on the 25th of August, 1796, of German ancestry.  His grandfather was one of that worthy race who found a home in the infant colonies, to be devoted to freedom, and soon, thereafter, upon the battle-field of the Revolution, proved his courage and patriotism.  The sufferings of this aged veteran at Valley Forge evidently made a deep impression upon the young lad, as he listened to their recital--impressions which were never effaced, and which we find, to-day, transferred to the monument upon which his name stands so prominent.  The Continental soldier is before you as the representative of the acts of his ancestors in the days which tried men's souls.  Near this historic ground--Norristown--the father of James Lick was born.  He married, at an early day, a Miss Long, and emigrated to Fredericksburg, the birthplace of James.  His education was such as was taught in the small towns of the interior of that day--sufficiently meagre, none can doubt.  We next find him working as an organ-maker in Hanover, Pa., already exhibiting the energy and desire for adventure which distinguished his after life.  In 1819, he obtained employment in the establishment of Joseph Hiskey, a prominent piano manufacturer in Baltimore.  While here he met a young man named Meyer, in search of employment, and between the two was formed a friendship which lasted through life.  The lad Meyer, of 1819, is Conrad Meyer, of Philadelphia, to-day, the celebrated piano <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>523</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>525</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm: to be.  Influential friends endeavored to dissuade him from this step.  He was assured that the United States could not hold California; that the inhabitants were a set of cut-throats, who would murder <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>524</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>526</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:him for his money; in short, that he was very well where he was and that it would be folly to go elsewhere.  To this James Lick gave answer, that he knew the character of the American government and its people, and it was not in their nature to give up a country it had once laid hold of, and as for the other reasons, he had implicit confidence in his ability to take care of himself.  A new difficulty presented itself, however, the surmounting of which shows the character of the man.  He had on hand a contract for a number of pianos, when his workmen suddenly left for California.  To violate his word was not for a moment to be considered--his contract must be fulfilled--and he personally did the work, although it cost him two years of hard labor to perform it.  His pianos finished, everything is converted into money at a great sacrifice, and he is possessed of $30,000 in gold doubloons.  With this he sailed for California, in the ship <HI REND="italics">Lady Adams</HI>
149.sgm:, arriving at San Francisco in the latter part of 1847.  In the spring of 1848, San Francisco contained barely a thousand inhabitants.  It had just emerged from its pristine condition and primitive name of Yerba Buena, and was becoming, under American rule, a valuable sea-port.  Rumors of the discovery of gold filled the air, and tens of thousands flocked into and flooded out of the new metropolis of the Pacific.  The vast majority, irrespective of class, rushed to the mines; the sagacious minority remained in the city.  Among the latter was James Lick.  His shrewd insight told him that a great city would arise on this peninsula; it would be the inlet and the outlet, not only of the commerce of California, but eventually of the whole Northern Pacific coast.  The sand-hills which stretched out from the coast, and the <HI REND="italics">chaparral</HI>
149.sgm: -covered eminences, his prophetic vision converted into broad streets and avenues, lined with handsome and enduring structures.  He foresaw the population streaming from every quarter of the globe to this focus of attraction; the ships laden with the necessaries and luxuries of life, and he took his measures accordingly.  Quietly and carefully he invested his money, sowing his gold broadcast over many a piece of ground, the sellers jubilant and exultant at the price he paid them.  During 1848, he pursued this course.  Keeping <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>525</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>527</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>When the fraternity of Free Masons wished to erect a temple in San Francisco, they found the only site which would suit them belonged to James Lick, and was a part of the square upon which he designed to erect the Lick House.  Of course it was not for sale.  However, one of the brethren frankly approached him, and in a straightforward manner told him it was the only spot which suited them.  The result was that the ground now covered by the handsome temple, in which our brethren of the Golden City greet their fraters from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>526</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>Although reluctant to sell, he was lavish in his gifts.  The Pioneer Society, an organization which has so ably represented the State on different occasions, and over which he presided, received as a donation, the land upon which their hall is situated, and subsequently a larger and more valuable property.  The California Academy of Sciences received a lot of great value also, and erected their building upon it.</P>
149.sgm:<P>But now he is approaching the sere and yellow leaf.  The years usually alloted to man, have long been passed, and he announces what was evidently the result of a life's purpose--a plan conceived in a spirit of philanthropy, and which only increased in magnitude in proportion as the means and power of the donor increased.  Selecting seven trustees from among the distinguished of his fellow-citizens he ceded to them his immense property--the accumulations of an unusually successful life--for the benefit of his adopted State, and for other noble purposes.  To enumerate these purposes were needless.  Suffice it to say that the exquisite work of art before us, the granite and marble, the life-like statues and enduring pyramid, the grateful tribute to those he loved, form a part.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Like our own Girard, the pervading aim or idea which attached to him during life, culminated in this act.  It was the desire to benefit his kind.  And now, having performed his life mission, he gathered the drapery of his couch around him, and patiently awaited the summons to appear before the Eternal throne where all men are judged impartially.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Around his eventful life, let us throw a halo of pleasant memories.  He sleeps quietly in his narrow bed by the blue waters of the Pacific.  May the flowers which spring so plentiful in the Golden State of his adoption, bloom upon his grave, winter and summer, and may we all, in the further performance of our duties, as we dedicate his work, and expose for all time to God's sunshine and storms, this monument to his memory, say as a requiem:</P>
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149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Farewell! the early dews that fall<LB>Upon thy grass-grown bed,<LB>Are like the thoughts that now recall<LB>Thine image of the dead.<LB>A blessing hallows thy dark cell--<LB>I will not stay to weep--Farewell."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Samuel C. Upham, of Philadelphia, an Argonaut of '49, being introduced by the Chairman, spoke as follows:</P>
149.sgm:<P>MR. CHAIRMAN, LADIES AND GENTLEMEN:--I appear before you under peculiar and somewhat embarrassing circumstances.  The Hon. John S. Hittell, Historian of "The Society of California Pioneers," selected to represent that Society on this occasion, finds it impossible to be with you to-day, and at the urgent request of the Hon. Peter Dean, President of the Society, and of Mr. Francis D. Clark, Secretary of "The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California," of which Society I have the honor to be a member, I have, at a few hours' notice, consented to act as the representative of our parent Society in San Francisco.  The following letter will more fully explain the matter:</P>
149.sgm:<P>THE SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS,</P>
149.sgm:<P>808 Montgomery Street,</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CAL., April 10th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK, Secretary Pioneers, etc., New York--</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm::--You are aware that the Lick Monument, at Fredericksburg, Pa., is finished, and will be dedicated on the 22d inst., and that the Hon. John S. Hittell, the Historian of this Society, was selected to represent the Pioneers on that occasion.  To-day Mr. Hittell has informed me that he cannot leave until the 17th inst.  It will, therefore, be impossible for him to participate in the dedication ceremonies on the 22d.  Under these circumstances, Mr. Dean, our President, has requested me to ask you if you will not do something toward having the Pioneers represented on that day.  He desires me to ask if there are not some of your members who will take a run over to Fredericksburg and represent the Pioneers and assist in the ceremonies upon that interesting occasion.  If <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>528</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>Very truly,     A. C. BRADFORD,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sec'y Society Cal. Pioneers</HI>
149.sgm:<P>As your orator has so ably and eloquently portrayed the life and services of the noble man whose memory we delight to honor, my remarks will be brief.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In the year 1819, a young man, in the vigor of manhood, and in whose lexicon there was no such word as FAIL, left his boyhood's home in this beautiful valley, and the endearing associations of the old hearthstone, to seek employment in one of our large cities.  He obtained a situation in a piano manufactory in Baltimore, and a year later started in the same business for himself in the city of New York, but failing to succeed for want of capital, went soon after to Buenos Ayres, and then to Valparaiso, where he devoted himself to his business of piano-making for four years.  He then visited different places in Peru, remaining in that country eleven years.  Mr. Lick arrived in California in the year 1847, with about $30,000, which he invested in real estate in San Francisco and vicinity, and its rapid advance in value, caused by the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill, in that State, in the month of January, 1848, and the large emigration thither, soon made him a second Cr&oelig;sus.  His great wealth did not dry up the fountains of his noble, generous heart, which was ever susceptible to the emotions of sympathy for his fellow-men.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In the year 1874, he placed his entire property in the hands of seven trustees, to be devoted to public and charitable purposes.  In the spring of 1875, a year previous to his death, the bequests, aggregating several millions of dollars, were changed in some respects.  To the "Academy of Natural Sciences," and to "The Society of California Pioneers," which latter I have the honor to represent, and whose honored President Mr. Lick was at the time of his decease, in the fall of 1876, he bequeathed a one-hundred <HI REND="italics">vara</HI>
149.sgm: lot, at the corner of Fourth and Market Streets, in the city of San Francisco, and also the residue of his vast estate, to be equally divided between the two Societies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>529</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>531</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The mortal remains of the great benefactor whose memory we honor to-day, lie mingling with the dust of that far-off land he loved so well, and which is so dear to the heart of every true Californian--the land where <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The vine and the fig-tree are laden with fruit,<LB>And the breezes blow soft as tones of the lute."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>There, in that beautiful, silent City of the Dead, near the portals of the Golden Gate, with the roar of the waves of the mighty Pacific ever singing his requiem, he shall lie until the final day, when earth and ocean shall give up their dead, and this globe shall dissolve with fervent heat and leave not a rack behind.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At the conclusion of Mr. Upham's address, the following letters were read by a member of the Committee of Arrangements:</P>
149.sgm:<P>OFFICE OF THE JAMES LICK TRUST,</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, April 12th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COLONEL J. P. S. GOBIN, Chairman Committee of Arrangements Dedication of Lick Monument, Lebanon, Pa.-- <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>530</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>It was hoped that one of the Trustees, at least, might be able to attend the ceremonies, but circumstances have obtained which prevent all of them that pleasure.</P>
149.sgm:<P>They have instructed me to express to you, sir, their sincere appreciation of the sentiment which actuates your people in recognizing, through the ceremonies you propose, the honorable distinction deserved by a man who has devoted all of a large fortune to the noble purpose of benefiting his fellow-men.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, yours,</P>
149.sgm:<P>HENRY E. MATHEWS,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Secretary of The James Lick Trust</HI>
149.sgm:<P>By order of the Trustees of The James Lick Trust.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ALTA CALIFORNIA OFFICE,</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, April 9th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COLONEL J. P. S. GOBIN-- <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm:<P>With respect,<HSEP>JOHN S. HITTELL.</P>
149.sgm:<P>EXECUTIVE CHAMBER,</P>
149.sgm:<P>HARRISBURG, PA., April 18th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>DEAR COLONEL:--I regret very sincerely that I am unable to accept your very kind invitation to attend ceremonies attending the dedication of monument at Fredericksburg, Lebanon County, on Monday next.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Yours, very truly,<HSEP>J. F. HARTRANFT.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Adam Rise, Eminent Commander, then ordered the Hermit Commandery to form in a hollow square around the monument.  Buglers were stationed in the rear of the lines--one each to the North, South, East and West.  One Sir Knight was placed on each side of the monument, the covering of the statues being so arranged that at the proper signal--a sound of the trumpet--one pull would unveil each side.  The E. C. then announced:</P>
149.sgm:<P>In pursuance of the duty assumed by Hermit Commandery, No. 24, Knights Templar, of Pennsylvania, and by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>531</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>533</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The C. G. commanded--"Present swords."</P>
149.sgm:<P>The E. C. asked--"Sir Knight, is it well in the East?"</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Sir Knight, John Matthes, stationed on the East, replied:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The sunbeams from the eastern sky,<LB>Flash from yon blocks exalted high,<LB>And on their polished fronts proclaim,<LB>Our worthy brother's widespread fame."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>E. C.--"Sir Knight, is it well in the West?"</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Sir Knight, Simon G. Boltz, stationed on the West, replied:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The chastened sun adown the West,<LB>Speaks the same voice and sinks to rest;<LB>No sad defect, no flaw to shame<LB>Our worthy brother's lofty fame."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>E. C.--"Sir Knight, is it well in the South?"</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Sir Knight, C. H. Shank, stationed on the South, replied:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Glowing beneath the fervid noon,<LB>Yon granite dares the southern sun;<LB>Yet tells that wall of fervid flame,<LB>Our worthy brother's honest fame."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>E. C.--Sir Knight, is it well in the North?"</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Sir Knight, P. L. Zimmerman, stationed on the North, replied:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Perfect in line, exact in square,<LB>The works of all our craftsmen are;<LB>They will to coming time proclaim<LB>Our brother's worthy, well-earned fame."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>E. C.--"Sir Knights, our Warder will make proclamation."</P>
149.sgm:<P>Warder, C. H. Killinger, announced: "I am directed to proclaim, and do proclaim, that the monument of our deceased brother, James Lick, is now dedicated to the uses designed, and to the memory of those whose names are inscribed thereon.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>532</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>When the Warder pronounced the word East, the bugler on the eastern side gave one blast of his trumpet, and the Knight uncovered that side of the monument.  When the word West was pronounced by the Warder, the bugler on the western side gave two blasts of his trumpet, and the Knight stationed there uncovered that side of the monument.  Three blasts of the trumpet from the bugler stationed on the southern side was the signal to uncover that portion of the monument.  As the word North was proclaimed by the Warder, a general salute of all the buglers was the signal for uncovering the northern side and the statue of the Goddess of Liberty on top of the monument.</P>
149.sgm:<P>C. G.--"Carry swords."</P>
149.sgm:<P>E. C.--"Uncover, Sir Knights.  Our Prelate, will you lead in our devotions?"</P>
149.sgm:<P>PRELATE W. G. WARD'S DEDICATORY PRAYER.</P>
149.sgm:<P>O Thou Supreme Architect of the Universe, in Thy name have we assembled upon this day, and we lift up our hands and hearts unto Thee, our Creator and Father.  Deign to look upon us, the unworthy suppliants of Thy favor.  Thou hast taught us to look unto Thee in all the undertakings of life; to count upon Thy help in every laudable enterprise.  We invoke Thy blessing upon the work of our hands this day.</P>
149.sgm:<P>O Thou God of our Fathers, remember us as Knights Templar, who have been called to the performance of the important duties of unveiling this monument and dedicating it to the uses for which it is designed.  May it not only be a monument to perpetuate the memories of those whose names are inscribed thereon, and whose bones lie mouldering under the clod in the valley; but may it be an immutable memorial to remind every visitor to this sacred spot, that</P>
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149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Honor and fame from no condition rise,<LB>Act well your part, there all your honor lies."</HI>
149.sgm:<P>As Templars, may we here learn a lesson and from it receive Wisdom from on high in all our doings, Strength of mind in all our difficulties, and the Beauty of harmony and holiness in all our communications and work.  Let Faith be the foundation of our Hope, and Charity the fruit of our obedience to Thy revealed will.  As we display the Standard of the Cross, may we follow the symbolic banner, whose inscription, " <HI REND="italics">In hoc signo vinces</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Grant, Heavenly Father, that we may so conduct ourselves during our earthly pilgrimage, that at its close we may be found worthy, through the merits of Him who has gone before us, to enter that Asylum of rest which He has prepared for all those who put their trust in Him.</P>
149.sgm:<P>And unto Thee, the only living and true God, we will ascribe power, and majesty, and dominion, now and evermore.  Amen and amen.</P>
149.sgm:<P>E. C.--"Cover."</P>
149.sgm:<P>Music--"Old Hundred."</P>
149.sgm:<P>The following benediction was then pronounced by the Rev. Daniel Washburn, Grand Prelate of Pennsylvania:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Praise God from whom all blessings flow.<LB>Praise Him all creatures here below,<LB>Praise him above, angelic host,<LB>Praise Father, Son and Holy Ghost.</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The Lord bless us and keep us; the Lord mercifully with His favor look upon us and be gracious unto us; the Lord lift up His countenance upon us, and give us peace both now and evermore.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The procession again formed, marched into town and was dismissed in Market Square, at half-past three o'clock, P.M.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Among the prominent persons present were ex-Senator <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>534</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>536</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Through the kindness of Mr. Jonathan See, of Philadelphia, who invited me to occupy a part of his seat in a crowded vehicle, I was enabled to reach Jonestown in time to take the 4.40 P.M. train for Philadelphia, where I arrived at nine o'clock same evening, wayworn and weary.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In conclusion, I desire to return thanks to the following gentlemen for courtesies extended to me during my brief visit to Fredericksburg: Colonel J. P. S. Gobin, Grand Prelate Daniel Washburn, Dr. A. W. Shultz, Levi Shiffler, Hon. F. M. Bachman, George Brutzman, Simon and John Desh, and several Sir Knights whose names I cannot call to mind.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Au revoir</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SAMUEL C. UPHAM.</P></DIV>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>535</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>VISIT OF THE "KING'S ORPHAN"<ANCHOR ID="na-14">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-14">The "Orphan's" name was Mafs or Mass.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>Upper California--Its climate, agricultural and mineral resources--Gold and silver discovered in 1843--Fort and port of San Francisco--Military barracks of San Francisco--An Indian feast--Sonoma--Colonel Valle&acute;jo--Yerba Buena--New Helvetia--Captain Sutter--Russian fort at Bodega--Messrs. Sinclair and Grymes.</P>
149.sgm:<P>THE following sketch, alluded to on page 470, has been compiled from the manuscript of the "King's Orphan," kindly placed in the hands of the author by Colonel T. B. Thorpe.<ANCHOR ID="na-15">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-15">Colonel Thomas Bangs Thorpe, better known to the literary world as "Tom Owen the Bee Hunter," died in New York city on the morning of September 20th, 1878, aged sixty-three years.  Colonel Thorpe was in several respects a remarkable man.  In addition to his fine literary attainments, he was an amateur naturalist and an artist in oil colors of no mean ability.  His <HI REND="italics">chef-d'&oelig;uvre&acute;</HI>
149.sgm:, "Niagara Falls," was sold in London for $5,000.  He was an able journalist as well as a fluent and eloquent speaker.  During the Mexican war, Colonel Thorpe was first attached to the staff of General Worth, and afterward appointed aid to General Zachary Taylor.  He is said to have been the first correspondent who wrote his descriptions from the battle-field, and his letters published in a New Orleans journal added much to the fame of "Old Rough and Ready," a <HI REND="italics">soubriquet</HI>
149.sgm: given to him by the Colonel.  He was also the author of the laconic order attributed to Old Zach--" <HI REND="italics">A little more grape, Captain Bragg</HI>
149.sgm:!"  Colonel Thorpe, at the time of his death, held a position in the Law Division of the New York Custom-house.  Although not a member of "The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California," he was always a welcome guest at their re-unions, and the decease of the "old man eloquent" has caused a void in their circle which can never be filled.  A delegation of the California Pioneers attended his funeral, and accompanied his remains to their last earthly resting-place--Greenwood Cemetery.  Peace to his <HI REND="italics">manes</HI>
149.sgm:!<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"None knew him but to love him--<LB>None named him but to praise."<LB></HI>
149.sgm:<P>Upper California is geographically situated west of the United States, beyond the Rocky and other mountain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>536</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>538</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The Cordilleras are of extraordinary elevation, there being peaks among them from ten to twenty thousand feet above the level of the sea, from which they are seen at an immense distance.  The higher mountains are almost destitute of vegetation, except stunted trees and shrubs.  In the valleys is found the richest soil, varying from a rich alluvial to a deep black vegetable loam, upon a strata of sand, gravel, clay and trap-rock.  The hills are generally of a more loose and gravelly nature than the mountains, while some are composed entirely of basalt, slate and marble.  The Californias are <HI REND="italics">rich in minerals</HI>
149.sgm:.  <HI REND="italics">Gold, silver</HI>
149.sgm:, lead, oxide of iron, manganese and copper ore are met with throughout the country, <HI REND="italics">the precious metals being the most abundant</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Upper California is naturally divided into two great sections, the cultivated and the wild country.  The former may be said to be that portion which lies along the Pacific, already populated to a considerable extent.  The latter, or the Indian country, part of which is called the <HI REND="italics">Tulares</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The productions of the country are timber of the finest quality and all fruits and grains peculiar to the tropical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>537</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FORT AND PORT OF SAN FRANCISCO, 1843.  From a Sketch by the "King's Orphan."</P>
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149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>-</PRINTPGNO>
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149.sgm:and temperate zones; among which are apples, pears, peaches, oranges, lemons, figs, plums, cherries, grapes and almost every tropical fruit, in the southern portion of the country.  Wheat, rye, oats, barley, beans, peas, hemp, flax, tobacco, coffee, corn, Irish potatoes and sugar-cane.  Vegetables of all kinds can be raised in the greatest abundance, frequently two or three crops a year.  Wormwood and wild mustard abound as weeds.  Oats grow wild, and the cultivated grow to an enormous height.  Wheat crops, sown in the fall, early the following year have yeilded <HI REND="italics">one hundred and fourteen bushels</HI>
149.sgm: to the acre.  At the Mission of St. Joseph it was ascertained that the yield was <HI REND="italics">one hundred and twenty bushels to the acre, and the spontaneous crop the following year was sixty bushels to the acre</HI>
149.sgm:<P>An opportunity occurring, I embarked on board a small trading schooner to pay a visit to the Mission of San Francisco, on the most splendid bay in all California, and surrounded by the richest country.  A pleasant run of two days [from Monterey], brought me to the mouth of the bay, which is peculiar, and will always attract attention, both for its easy adaptation to defense at little cost and for its very picturesque appearance.  The entrance to the bay is excellent, being fully a half mile wide.  On the south side, rises a high, rocky point, on the top of which are the ruins of an old fort.  On the north side, is a high and bold coast, at the foot of which are some perforated sandstone rocks, that looked precisely as would the remnants of castles of which remained only their porticoes and archways.  After you pass well into the bay, you meet with various small islands, or round bold rocks, one of which is known <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>540</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>542</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The port of San Francisco presents a very pleasant appearance.  It has a bold shore, and high hills for a background.  The main entrance to the bay, viewed from the ruins of the fort, looking out toward the sea, is most beautiful, bounded as it is on both sides by bold rocks, while its high precipice on which you stand, brings the waves of the ocean below you, and gives to shipping the appearance of a well-arranged panorama.  The Mission of San Francisco, as is generally the custom of the country, is situated in the interior, and, after leaving the schooner, I journeyed to it by land.  At this mission I became acquainted with Colonel Valle&acute;jo, whose relatives I met with in Monterey.  He is the commander on the frontier, and resides at Sonoma, on the north side of the bay.  While at this place, the venerable Father Alviso, whose restoration to health, under my professional skill, had been so much credit to my reputation, visited me, having ridden from Santa Clara for that purpose, a distance of 42 miles.  Having made arrangements favorable to the visiting of the more northern portions of the bay of San Francisco, I declined Father Alviso's pressing invitation to visit Santa Clara for the time being, and promised to accept of his hospitality at some future period.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I sailed, with most beautiful weather, up the magnificent bay, and toward evening entered a curious stream called the Devil's Creek; no doubt so named because, its mouth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>541</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>543</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MILITARY BARRACKS OF SAN FRANCISCO, 1843.  From a Sketch by the "King's Orphan."</P>
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149.sgm:being lost in the low marsh, its channel is difficult to discover.  A gentleman having a ranch on this creek, had contracted with the owners of the schooner to deliver some lime, and he was on shore to show us the proper place to enter the creek.  The Indians who formed the crew of the schooner, knew nothing about it, nor did they perceive a ranchman who was perched on a high hill in the background, endeavoring also to point out the way.  Unfortunately, the undergrowth of portions of the country was on fire, and a dense smoke clouded the atmosphere in some directions.  After much delay and confusion, the ranchman came on board the schooner to act as pilot, and brought us safely up a winding but beautiful creek.  We were often so near to the land that the cattle, deer and antelopes could be seen flying before the devouring element.  The flames finally reached the <HI REND="italics">tule&acute;</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The schooner came to anchor in a beautiful bend in the creek, and as night set in the fire exhibited one of the most singular sights I ever witnessed.  The larger brush, which had now become ignited, sent up long tongues of forked flames behind the green canopy of willows and the moving branches of the trees.  The effect was as if myriads of living creatures were struggling in the flames, and the illusion was horribly carried out by the howling of wolves, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>544</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>546</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>To occupy the time consumed by the delay of loading the schooner, I went up to the <HI REND="italics">original</HI>
149.sgm:<P>From policy, no doubt, this family kept up the "hob-gobblin" stories and circulated new ones, and they were thereby enabled to hold sole possession of the surrounding country.  At length, in an incursion of a hostile tribe of Indians from the mountains, this family was murdered, their settlement robbed of its wealth, the Indians escaping without detection.  This atrocity confirmed the stories so much circulated about it, and as a consequence the country, until quite recently, has been entirely deserted.</P>
149.sgm:<P>To extend my excursions, I procured an easy-riding horse, and after having examined the limekilns, I rambled about the country quite alone, and, as is customary with me, searching for minerals and rare plants, examining the direction of the hills and their geological formations.  In the course of my ride I ascended to a considerable distance up the side of the mountain, known by the Californians and Indians as Mount de Barbones.  This mountain, although not more than sixteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, is so situated in regard to the surrounding country, that it can be seen further at sea than those of much higher elevation.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>545</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>547</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>While climbing the steep sides of this mountain, the sun at times almost disappeared amongst the thick smoke, yet tinged the distant forest and cliffs with a most singular light.  My hopes of obtaining any specimens for my herbarium were vain, as all the delicate plants that had escaped the fire were destroyed for my use by the heated air and smoke.  I therefore paid more particular attention to the geological character of the mountain.</P>
149.sgm:<P>De Barbones is similar to all mountains of this country, being composed of soft sand-stone, quartz, with occasional exhibitions of lime-stone and porphyry, with the evidences of such minerals as manganese, oxide of iron and lead ore.  But for the smoke I should have been able to see, while up on the mountain, the celebrated rocks, or, as the Canadian hunters term them, the Butes, and many other mountain ranges.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The continued repetition of these fires does great injury to the country.  The undergrowth that springs up in the "burns" is always inferior to that growing where no fire has injured the soil.  Very often the ground becomes loose, the fire penetrating deeply into it, following the roots; then sets in the dry season, the winds blow off the soil and leave an arid desert where before was luxurious vegetation.  The causes of these fires are various.  Sometimes they are accidental, sometimes purposely made to destroy the insects that infest the undergrowth; but, most often they are the work of the Indians, who gather grass-hoppers, a favorite food, by setting fire to the grass which they inhabit.  They also kindle fires to place a barrier between themselves and the whites.  The Indians, too, use fires for the purpose of conveying information, and they may be said to form the telegraphic system of the red man.  They are ingenious in the manner of forming their signals.  A hole is dug in the ground, much wider at the bottom than at the top; this hole is filled with combustibles and set on fire; once well ignited, the hole is nearly closed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>546</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>548</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>It was well-nigh sundown when I returned to the schooner, where I found the Indians busily engaged in skinning a yearling heifer, presented to them by the owner of the limekilns.  The captain of the schooner had been well provided with game, among which I noticed the body of a large elk.  The Indians that formed the crew of the schooner, having been rather stinted in food for a day or two, determined on a feast, as a recompense for their previous fasting.  They presented on the occasion a spectacle I had never before witnessed of disgusting sensual indulgence, the effect of which on their conduct struck me as being exceedingly strange.  The meat of the heifer, most rudely cooked, was eaten in a voracious manner.  After gorging themselves they would lie down and sleep for a while, and get up and eat again.  They repeated this gluttony until they actually lost their senses, and presented in their conduct all the phenomena peculiar to an over-indulgence in spirituous liquors.  They cried and laughed by turns, rolled upon the ground, dozed and then sprang up in a state of delirium.  The following morning, they were all wretchedly sick, and had the expression peculiar to drunken men recovering their reason after a debauch.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I should, perhaps, mention that the land on the northern side of the Devil's Creek is lower than is elsewhere to be seen, and is principally settled by California creoles, many of whom are owners of immense herds of cattle.  The soil is remarkably fruitful, suffering less than most other places from the drought, in consequence of its being flat, and through it flow many small rivulets, that come down from the hills, communicating with handsome bayous that, in every direction, intersect the ranches, thus affording easy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>547</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>549</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The schooner, after having been loaded, was navigated with great labor out of the creek, against a head-wind, but the moment we reached the bay the wind became favorable for our voyage, and we dashed over the bounding waves most merrily.  It was a short run across the Bay of San Pablo, the northern arm of San Francisco Bay, and much resembling a lake.  The schooner passed close to the western shore, through a narrow strait made by small islands, continuing on until it dropped anchor in the vicinity of Sonoma, the residence of Colonel Valle&acute;jo, the commandant of the frontier.  Sonoma is situated on a creek, three miles from its entrance into the bay.  In this neighborhood are several settlements.  San Gabriel, near the bay, is an old mission, at present nearly destroyed.  The administrator of the place is a Mr. Murphy, formerly of Peru.  He has accumulated by his industry a small property, consisting of horses and cattle.  I saw, as I passed on from San Gabriel, beautiful bottom-land with clumps of trees, mostly oak.  An Indian chief is settled here, assisted by some of his tribe.  His ranch is well laid out, and his house quite comfortable.  This chief betrays much intelligence and has a good character.  He was formerly, with those about him, attached to the "Valle&acute;jo ranch."  Fine deep creeks everywhere thread the country here, resembling in their appearance natural canals.  They are invaluable to the agriculturist; for independent of the facilities of transportation, they seem to irrigate the land in the dry season of summer.  The ranch of Colonel Valle&acute;jo is situated upon an eminence; is possessed of rich land, and portions of it are under fair cultivation.  Having passed this estate, I came to the military station of Sonoma and the residence of Colonel Valle&acute;jo.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Sonoma, originally called St. Solona, was by its founders laid out with great taste, and had the enterprise of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>548</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>550</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:people built it up according to the first intent, it would have been one of the handsomest places in California.  The military barracks extend along under the high hills, running parallel with them, and in front is a magnificent <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:<P>This station has a garrison nominally consisting of one hundred and fifty men, rank and file, but never mustered more than <HI REND="italics">thirty</HI>
149.sgm:, including all the hangers-on and loafers generally, whose professed business it is to ravage the country to keep the Indians in check.  Attached to the garrison is a friar who is dignified with the title of chaplain.  Enough of agricultural enterprise is exhibited about Sonoma to show the capacity of the rich soil if it were in the hands of an industrious population.  Fruit was growing finely, such as it was; wheat and corn gave evidence of an abundant yield, though badly planted and tended, in every particular.  The stock looked better than any I had seen, the horses being particularly fine.  In the vicinity of Sonoma are hot springs, remarkably effective in curing rheumatic complaints.  A water-mill for grinding wheat was standing on the creek that runs near the station, but the ignorant Indian who had it in charge could not manage the machinery, simple as it was, and there was not a Yankee about who could attend to it; so the mill stood still and the people satisfied themselves with eating <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
149.sgm: and meat, spending more time in one day in beating corn for <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The commandant of Sonoma, at the time of my arrival, was sick and needed medical attendance.  He bears the character of a haughty man, being full of the Spaniard; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>549</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>551</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:but I found him affable and polite.  I was struck with the military reputation of this officer, it being so much like all those of Mexico holding distant commands.  The story always is, that the commandant does not faithfully apply the revenues of the government, but appropriates them to his own use.  The moral is, that no confidence exists among the rulers themselves, and no character can be above suspicion.  There were very many things at Sonoma to destroy the pleasure of my visit, as they gave me a train of thoughts relative to the lawlessness of the people and the miserable government under which they live.  As I have before stated, on my entrance to the <HI REND="italics">Plaza</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A small tribe of Indians, inhabiting an island in the northern part of the Bay of San Francisco, was reported to have threatened the settlers in their neighborhood that they would steal some of their cattle as payment for contributions denied them, for occupying their lands.  Upon this shallow pretext, Colonel Valle&acute;jo permitted his brother, who is a blood-thirsty man, to take the "soldiers" and a number of Indians and march against these poor people, who had made threats that they were going to steal cattle from people indebted to them for land.  Advantage was taken when the Indian men were away from home fishing and gathering roots for subsistence.  These armed men were very brave when they found no resistance but from old men, women and children, who were unconscious of any danger until an indiscriminate massacre commenced that spared nothing but the women for prisoners.  Not contented with this barbarous shedding of blood, a poor negro blacksmith, a deserter from the United States sloop of war <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>550</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>552</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Cyane</HI>
149.sgm:, was found hidden away on this island, whom the commander had brought out, pompously proclaimed an enemy to Mexico, and then shot in the back, and only killed after repeated discharges of fire-arms.  Having thus accomplished their work, the expedition made a hasty retreat, fearing the Indians would gather <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
149.sgm:<P>These barbarous incursions into the Indian territory are often made from mere wantonness, or result from the Indians being cheated out of their lands or the reward of their labor.  As a consequence, they retaliate by stealing cattle; never, as far as I could learn, by committing murder.  Advantage is taken of these misunderstandings by the Californians, who, joining with the military force, scour the country, committing every cruelty that can be imagined.  By a <HI REND="italics">wise provision</HI>
149.sgm: of the Mexican government, as if to make <HI REND="italics">barbarousness</HI>
149.sgm: a subject of reward, the officers receive as <HI REND="italics">remuneration for heading these expeditions the prisoners that fall into their hands</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The prisoners I saw at Sonoma were mostly females and young children.  They were huddled together like beasts, nearly naked, and seemed to create no sympathy.  Some were good-looking.  They maintained a sullen expression, and bore up under their misfortunes with a stoicism peculiar to the aboriginal inhabitants of this continent.  The Indians belonging to Sonoma station, that had accompanied the expedition, seemed to have revived within them, by the shedding of blood, all the bad traits of their savage nature.  They celebrated, through the whole night of my arrival, their victory with dances and songs.  They painted their bodies coarsely, and showed less variety and spirit in all they did than you will meet with among the real savages, who have not, like most of the California Indians, been, by years of degradation, deprived of their original character.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>551</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>553</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TOWN AND PORT OF YERBA BUENA, IN SAN FRANCISCO BAY, 1843.  From a Sketch by the "King's Orphan."</P>
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149.sgm:<P>After a visit of some days at Sonoma, visiting most of the places in the vicinity situated on the beautiful bay, I left for Yerba Buena, a small and growing town on the south-west side of San Francisco Bay, and near the town of that name.  The harbor offers great facilities for the unloading of vessels of all descriptions; but, like many other places bordering on the sea, in California, it suffers from want of good water, which cannot be obtained--the wells being rather brackish.  Vessels, therefore, are obliged to cross the bay for a supply of wholesome water.  As this country becomes more thickly settled, and facilities are created for traveling, there will be still another port opened further south than Yerba Buena, which will no doubt become of great importance as a place of business.  I found three "whalers" in the bay at Yerba Buena, and occupied my time most pleasantly in conversation with their officers--two of them being American vessels.</P>
149.sgm:<P>It was with great pleasure I witnessed the preparations which, when completed, would, without further delay, permit me to sail for New Helvetia, the most interesting portion of California, and destined to become thickly populated with American residents.</P>
149.sgm:<P>I shall never forget the morning following my departure for New Helvetia.  A landscape of beauty burst upon my view, such as I never before witnessed.  A view containing every soft and delicate feature, yet bounded by the sublimest exhibitions of nature.  The mouth of the San Joaquin opened to my view on the south, presenting a far reach inland, that grew dim by the distance.  Before me was the Sacramento; a rich green canopy was suspended from the noble trees that lined its borders, casting deep shades that seem to invite the wanderer to its hospitable shores.  It was Sabbath morning, and I thought I never saw more fit temples for praise and worship than everywhere presented themselves.  The green grass came down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>554</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>556</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The day was consumed in our passage up the river, nothing occurring to break the pleasant thoughts the scenery around suggested.  Occasionally a deer would betray itself among the tangled vines that hung in profusion from the larger trees; or cattle, almost as wild as the deer, would rush along with heavy tread, crushing the undergrowth making it sound singularly loud.  No signs of civilization were to be seen, and a deserted hut made the landscape look more quiet, perhaps, than it would otherwise have done.  I arrived in the evening at the <HI REND="italics">Embarcadero</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter, who is the most enterprising citizen of California, <HI REND="italics">and who is destined to play a prominent part in the future history of the country</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter obtained a grant from the Mexican government of a large tract of land on the Sacramento, on condition that he would keep the Indians in check and punish them if they interfered with the settlement.  He displayed wonderful energy of character, and came so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>555</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>557</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<illus entity="a149-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RUSSIAN FORT ROSS, RODEGA, CALIFORNIA, 1843.  From a Sketch by the "King's Orphan."</P>
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149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>557</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<P>To carry out his extensive plans, Captain Sutter purchased the movable property of the abandoned Russian Mission of Ross at Bodega, agreeing to pay for it in a certain number of years in agricultural products.  He then, with great difficulty, managed to make laborers out of the Indians, paying them fair prices in beads and blankets, and by these Indians has been performed the greater part of his agricultural labor.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Captain Sutter's establishment has more the appearance of a fort than a farming establishment.  It is protected by a wall, ten feet high, made of <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
149.sgm:, or sun-dried bricks, having a turret with embrasures and loop-holes for fire-arms.  Twenty-four pieces of cannon of different sizes, can be brought to defend the walls.  Against the walls, on the inside of the fort, are erected the store-houses of the establishment, also a distillery to make spirits from the wheat and wild grapes, together with shops for coopers, blacksmiths, carpenters, saddlers, granaries, and huts for the laborers.  At the gate-way is always stationed a servant, armed as a sentinel.  I arrived at the establishment early in the morning, just as the people were being assembled for labor by the discordant notes of a Mexican drum.  I found Captain Sutter busily employed in distributing orders for the day.  He received me with great hospitality, and made me feel on the instant perfectly at home under his roof.  The magical sounds of the drum had gathered together several hundred Indians, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>558</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>560</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Breakfast was by this time announced for the family, which was served up in an out-house adjoining the kitchen.  The breakfast consisted of wholesome corn-bread, eggs, ham, an excellent piece of venison and coffee.  In the rear of the fort is a large pond, the borders of which are planted with willows and other trees, a most valuable acquisition as well as ornament.  This pond furnishes water for the necessary wants of domestic use, and for irrigating the garden.  Owing to the drought, the vegetables as well as the wheat had suffered; the latter proving almost a failure.  The want of rain is the greatest evil that befalls the country.  In the front of the fort, there are inclosures for horses and cattle, and places to deposit corn and wheat.  The manner of threshing which I witnessed was conducted on the most patriarchal plan, the grain being strewn upon the floor, and then trodden out by horses or cattle, which causes it to be much broken and mixed with the earth, and almost impossible to clean.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The raising of wheat, corn, horses and cattle, constitutes the principal business of Captain Sutter; but he has realized considerable income from the salmon fisheries of the rivers; the fish being unequaled in flavor and found in the greatest abundance.  He also organized extensive hunting and trapping expeditions for the skins of the beaver, otter, elk, deer and antelope, but in this he was greatly interfered with by the Hudson Bay Company, who sent their hunters upon his grounds.  He complained to the proper authorities, but they paid no attention whatever to the matter.  His enemies, not content with thus injuring him, informed the suspicious Mexican government that Captain Sutter was concocting revolutionary plans, and that he encouraged deserters and other disorderly people to live at his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>559</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>561</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The government at Monterey was not satisfied with Captain Sutter's explanations.  Urged on by envious neighbors, it was prompted to send to Captain Sutter a committee of investigation.  The Captain was so enraged at the idea of such a thing that he treated the committee with great contempt, and said he could defend himself against any force or means that might be employed against him.  Whereupon the government at Monterey threatened to send a force against him, but thought better of the matter when they found out the character of the men Captain Sutter had about him, and of the Russian armament he had mounted on the walls of his fort; but annoyed him with legal suits, and after a great deal of difficulty he was acquitted of any treasonable design against the government.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Hudson Bay Company's hunters having destroyed his trade in furs, and thus disappointed him in his income, he retaliated upon them by erecting a large distillery, with the product of which he secretly purchased from the hunters of the company the greater part of their furs, and managed to make more by the operation than if he had kept up a large hunting establishment of his own.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Sinclair, a partner with Captain Sutter in farming pursuits, and a Mr. Grymes, have large and productive farms on the American Fork, a tributary of the Sacramento.  Mr. Sinclair is from Scotland; is a very interesting gentleman in conversation, and possesses great enterprise in business.  He was a hunter for many years among the Rocky <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>560</CONTROLPGNO>
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149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>561</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>563</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>MAKING AND RAISING THE "BEAR FLAG."</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>THE author is indebted to Mr. Francis D. Clark, Secretary of "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA," for the following correspondence, which settles the matter as to the date of raising the "Bear Flag" at Sonoma, Cal.  Secretary Winter deserves the thanks of the Pioneers for his persistent and painstaking efforts in settling for all time this mooted question:</P>
149.sgm:<P>OFFICE OF THE "TERRITORIAL PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>No. 103 Montgomery Street,</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, August 30th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I am prompted to send these papers to you, because I think them valuable to the Society you represent, for reference and preservation; and more than this, because WE ARE REGARDING THE NEW YORK SOCIETY--SO CLOSELY RESEMBLING OUR OWN, IN NAME AND SENTIMENT, DECLARED OBJECTS AND ACCOMPLISHED WORK--AS MUCH NEARER AKIN TO OUR ASSOCIATION than any other existing organization.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The list of "Pioneer" organizations, etc., sent is the result of considerable examination of Directories and correspondence, with a desire to make it as complete and correct as practicable; yet, it is possible, you may be able to suggest some additions, in which case you will please do the favor.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>562</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>564</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>I transmit the copy of James G. Bleak's letter, for the reason that it is esteemed important in SETTLING THE QUESTION AS TO DATE OF RAISING THE "BEAR FLAG" at Sonoma, in 1846, upon which there has hitherto been so much contradiction, both among the "Bear Flag" Party and in History.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. John S. Hittell, Historian of the Society of California Pioneers, S.F., in his Report of 7TH JANUARY last, fixed the Date as the 12th of June, 1846.  Bancroft, the Pacific Coast Historian, intended to publish it as on the 15th June, etc.</P>
149.sgm:<P>To Wm. L. Todd (Maker of the Flag and one of the party) I was indebted for the information that Captain Wm. B. Ide, in command of the party, kept a Diary during that eventful period of California's early History, and this Diary must henceforth be received as THE MOST RELIABLE DATA EXTANT and, I think, conclusive on that point, in view of the treachery of human memory.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Yours fraternally,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WM. WINTER, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK, ESQ., <HI REND="italics">Secretary Society of "The Associated Pioneers of Territorial Days of California</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ST. GEORGE, Utah, 16th April, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>TO WM. WINTER, Esq., Sec'y of Association of "Territorial Pioneers of California"-- <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm:<P>In reply to your question asking for "the <HI REND="italics">correct date" of raising the "Bear Flag</HI>
149.sgm: " at Sonoma in 1846, I will quote from the writing of Wm. B. Ide, deceased:--"The said `Bear Flag' [was] made of plane [plain] cotton cloth and ornamented with the red flannel of a shirt from the back of one of the men, and christened by the words `California Republic' in red paint letters on both sides; [it] was raised upon the standard where had floated on the breezes the Mexican Flag aforetime; IT WAS THE 14TH OF JUNE, '46.  Our whole number was 24 all told.  The mechanism of the Flag was performed by Wm. Todd of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>563</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>565</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>I will quote a few lines more, though not pertinent to the fact of raising the Flag; still I believe the few following words cannot fail to be gratifying to the companions in arms of Wm. B. Ide:</P>
149.sgm:<P>"The men were divided into two companies of 10 men each.  The 1st Artillery was busily engaged in putting the cannon in order, which were charged doubly with grape and canister.  The 1st Rifle company were busied in cleaning, repairing and loading the small arms.  The commander after setting a guard and posting a sentinel on one of the highest buildings to watch the approach of any persons who might feel a curiosity to inspect our operations--directed his leisure to the establishment of some system of finance--whereby all the defenseless families might be brought within the lines of our garrison and supported.  Ten thousand pounds of flour were purchased on the credit of the <HI REND="italics">Gov</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Here I will desist as my time is much occupied and perhaps <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>564</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>566</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Before closing I beg leave to refer to a newspaper clipping I find among the papers: it is from the "Daily Alta California" of 20 Jan'y 1846.  Appended to a copy of the "Proclamation" is a certificate from Sen&tilde;or Joachin Torres stating the Flag was hoisted on the date of the Proclamation, June 15th, 1846.  This you will perceive is incorrect.  I have been careful to give you VERBATIM COPY OF IDE'S WORDS AS WRITTEN BY HIMSELF.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Respectfully,</P>
149.sgm:<P>JAMES G. BLEAK.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The foregoing is a true copy of a Letter received by me, from James G. Bleak, Esq., of St. George, Utah.</P>
149.sgm:<P>WM. WINTER,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Secretary Association of "Territorial Pioneers of California</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, August 30th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>PIONEER ORGANIZATIONS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"THE SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hall, 808 Montgomery Street, San Francisco, California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>S. C. HASTINGS, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>FERDINAND VASSAULT, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ASSOCIATION OF "TERRITORIAL PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hall, 103 Montgomery Street, San Francisco.</P>
149.sgm:<P>WM. T. GARRATT, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>WM. WINTER, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SOCIETY OF "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Head-quarters, New York City.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN A. SUTTER, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>565</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>567</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>SOCIETY OF "SANTA CLARA COUNTY PIONEERS,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>San Jose&acute;, California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COLEMAN YOUNGER, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ALEX. P. MURGOTTEN, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"SACRAMENTO SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Rooms, 7th Street, between J and K, Sacramento City, Cal.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A. B. OSBORN, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ASA P. ANDREWS.  <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"MARYSVILLE PIONEER ASSOCIATION,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Marysville, California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>WM. G. MURPHY, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"SAN JOAQUIN SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Pioneer Hall, 174 El Dorado Street, Stockton, California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>W. F. FREEMAN, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ALONZO RHODES, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ASSOCIATION OF "OREGON PIONEERS,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Salem, Oregon.</P>
149.sgm:<P>W. J. HERRON, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>J. HENRY BROWN, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SOCIETY OF "PACIFIC COAST PIONEERS,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hall, B Street, Virginia City, Nevada.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A. J. TYRRELL, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>S. D. BAKER, <HI REND="italics">Librarian</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"PIONEERS OF AMADOR AND CALAVERAS COUNTIES,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Jackson, California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JAMES MEEHAN, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>JEFF. DAVIS, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"VALLE&acute;JO PIONEERS ASSOCIATION,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Valle&acute;jo, California.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS, FOR THE DISTRICT COMPOSED OF SONOMA, NAPA, MARIN, MENDOCINO AND LAKE COUNTIES."</P>
149.sgm:<P>J. CAVANAUGH, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>CAPT. ANDREW HENRY, <HI REND="italics">Recording Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>566</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>568</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>KINDRED ORGANIZATION.</P>
149.sgm:<P>SOCIETY OF "NATIVE SONS OF THE GOLDEN WEST,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hall, 320 Post Street, San Francisco.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN H. GRADY, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
149.sgm:<P>H. LUNSTEDS, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"TRUCKEE," THE INDIAN GUIDE.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The following letter, which explains itself, is deemed worthy of a place in this volume:</P>
149.sgm:<P>OFFICE OF THE ASSOCIATION OF "TERRITORIAL PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA,"</P>
149.sgm:<P>No. 103 Montgomery Street,</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, September 26th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAMUEL C. UPHAM, Esq., Philadelphia-- <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm::--The following is a copy of a recent communication in which is contained an <HI REND="italics">interesting</HI>
149.sgm: fragment of our Pioneer history, which I have caused to be unearthed, and believe may, at <HI REND="italics">this</HI>
149.sgm: moment, to be of service to <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
149.sgm:<P>I have thought it only an act of courtesy due you from this Association to give you the copy.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Yours, very respectfully,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WM. WINTER, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"OAKVILLE, NAPA COUNTY, CAL.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>"August 26th, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"WM. WINTER, Esq., San Francisco-- <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"In 1845, Harbin and a few others were on their way to California, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
149.sgm: Overland Route, and on arriving at the Sink of the Humboldt, they met with an Indian and employed him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>567</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>569</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:to pilot them across the desert.  While <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
149.sgm: Harbin noticed a resemblance in him to a Frenchman he had formerly known, and therefore bestowed the name of the Frenchman (Truckee) on the Indian, and on arriving at the river (Truckee), they were greatly elated at their good fortune, and named it `Truckee's River.'  `Truckee' and two of his brothers came to California with the emigrants, in 1846, and served in Fremont's Battalion until the end of the war, and `Truckee' was admitted to be as brave, if not the bravest, man among <HI REND="italics">us</HI>
149.sgm:<P>"I am glad that you met with Mr. Wm. L. Todd, and hope the controversy concerning the Bear Flag will soon be settled, not that in itself it is a matter of great importance, but as it will form a part of history, the story of it should be correctly told.  I have several times published truthful accounts of it, and, in every instance, other persons, who of their own knowledge could have known absolutely nothing about the circumstances narrated, but who happened to be better writers than myself, would prove to their own satisfaction, and that also of most people, that my statements were false and theirs correct.</P>
149.sgm:<P>"Yours, etc.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>"WM. BALDRIDGE."</P></DIV>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>568</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>570</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>THE LAND WE ADORE.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Song and Chorus</HI>
149.sgm:<P>WORDS BY</P>
149.sgm:<P>SAMUEL C. UPHAM.</P>
149.sgm:<P>AIR--" <HI REND="italics">Flow Gently, Sweet Afton</HI>
149.sgm:<P><illus entity="a149-0047" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>569</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>571</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The Tom and the Sluice-box, once sparkling with gold,<LB>No longer wash out the auriferous mould;<LB>The Quartz Mill and Crusher have taken their place,<LB>And steam's declared victor again in the race.<LB>Our cabins now roofless and gone to decay,<LB>Like their tenants of old, are fast passing away;<LB>The grave on the hillside, with head-board decayed,<LB>Marks the spot where a comrade we long ago laid.  <HI REND="italics">Cho</HI>
149.sgm:.--Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc.<LB>III.<LB>O woman, dear woman! pure as gold without dross,<LB>The first at the tomb and the last at the cross,<LB>Thy presence ne'er cheered us in camp nor in mine,<LB>In those long-ago days, the days of lang syne--<LB>When the toils of the day had drawn to a close,<LB>And wrapped in our blankets in silent repose,<LB>Our thoughts wandered back to our sweethearts and wives,<LB>The loved ones for whom we had periled our lives.  <HI REND="italics">Cho</HI>
149.sgm:.--Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc.<LB>IV.<LB>Now hamlets like magic to cities have grown,<LB>The <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
149.sgm: has reaped the grain he has sown,<LB>The vine and the fig-tree are laden with fruit,<LB>And breezes blow soft there as tones of the lute;<LB>The orange-tree blossoms and fruits in the vale,<LB>The date and pomegranate, 'mid sand and 'mid shale,<LB>The filbert and almond, and manna of yore,<LB>Abound in the land that we love and adore.  <HI REND="italics">Cho</HI>
149.sgm:.--Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc.<LB>V.<LB>The Tuolumne rolls on as in ages of yore,<LB>The Stanislaus laves its auriferous shore,</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>570</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>572</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The Bear and the Yuba flow down to the sea,<LB>Bright flowers are still blooming, and green is each tree;<LB>The Sierras tower up in their helmets of snow,<LB>And the wild rose and tule&acute; still wave to and fro;<LB>Diablo, proud monarch, all grizzled and gray,<LB>Looms up in the distance his realm to survey.  <HI REND="italics">Cho</HI>
149.sgm:.--Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc.<LB>VI.<LB>Now fond recollections of long-ago times,<LB>Come echoing back like the music of chimes;<LB>Our thoughts wander back to the land we adore,<LB>Beyond the Sierras--Pacific's loved shore.<LB>But where are our comrades of long-ago days?<LB>Some with us are crowne&acute;d with laurels and bays,<LB>And others are here with locks frosted by age,<LB>Whose names add new lustre to history's page.  <HI REND="italics">Cho</HI>
149.sgm:.--Now fond recollections of long-ago times, etc.<LB>VII.<LB>And Stevenson's veterans are present to-day,<LB>From Sonoma, La Paz, and from old Monterey--<LB>Heroes, who helped add to the Red, White and Blue<LB>A bright golden star, ever loyal and true.<LB>And others lie mouldering on the plains of the West,<LB>Their spirits have soared to the land of the blest,<LB>Where soon we shall meet on that far-distant shore,<LB>Shall meet, and shall greet, and shall part nevermore.  <HI REND="italics">Cho</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>571</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>573</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>A TRIBUTE TO GENERAL JOHN A. SUTTER, AND A TOUCHING REPLY.</HEAD>
149.sgm:<P>NEW YORK, March 1st, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>GENERAL JOHN A. SUTTER, President, etc., Washington, D.C.-- <HI REND="italics">Dear General</HI>
149.sgm:<P>With the greatest pleasure, we hasten to fulfill the honorable duty assigned us by our associates, and hand you the accompanying cane, wrought specially for the occasion, of California gold and of California rosewood; it is but a feeble token of our respect and fraternal regard for one who has, during these long years, not only been our friend, but the friend of all Californians; who has illustrated, by his life and by his signal benefactions, the Divine precept of "charity."  On behalf of our associates, we tender our congratulations that, in health and strength and surrounded by friends, you are able to celebrate this seventy-sixth birthday and anniversary, and that you may long be spared for similar annual congratulations, is our earnest prayer.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Very truly, yours,</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK,</P>
149.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>572</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>574</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>GENERAL SUTTER'S REPLY.</P>
149.sgm:<P>WASHINGTON, D.C., March 2d, 1878.</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRIENDS AND COMPANIONS of "The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California," New York City-- <HI REND="italics">Gentlemen</HI>
149.sgm:<P>We are now hastening onward to our final resting-place, but the romance of our history as California pioneers, with its reverses and its successes, will tend, for ages to come, to stimulate the energy of our posterity.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Thanking you for the new honors, and for the many past favors received at the hands of the Society, collectively and personally, I am, truly and sincerely, your friend and obedient servant,</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN A. SUTTER.</P></DIV>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>573</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>575</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>HISTORY<LB>
149.sgm:OF THE<LB>
149.sgm:INAUGURATION AND ORGANIZATION<LB>
149.sgm:OF THE<LB>
149.sgm:ASSOCIATED PIONEERS<LB>
149.sgm:OF THE<LB>
149.sgm:TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA.<LB>
149.sgm:<P>THE annual re-union of old Californians, now resident of the city of New York and its immediate vicinity, was inaugurated on the evening of the 6th of March, 1872, by a party of gentlemen, former members of that pioneer regiment to the Pacific Coast in 1847, known as "Stevenson's California Regiment of New York Volunteers."  The party assembled at the residence of a former comrade, John Wolfe, Esq., on West Twenty-third Street, and upon the invitation of that gentleman.  Of the regiment there were present: its former surgeon, Dr. Alex. Perry, Captain James M. Turner, Lieutenant Jeremiah Sherwood; Privates Russell Myers, Francis D. Clark and John Wolfe, the host.  Among the guests were Mr. O. H. Pierson, and old '49er, and John A. Sutter, Jr., grandson of that old pioneer, General John A. Sutter.  The evening was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>574</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>576</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:twenty-fifth anniversary of the arrival of the ship <HI REND="italics">Thos. H. Perkins</HI>
149.sgm:<P>On the following year, in the month of March, the second re-union took place, and there assembled at the residence of Mr. Wolfe, Dr. Perry, Captain Turner, Lieutenant Sherwood, Privates Myers, Clark, Wolfe, as also the following who were not among those present upon the former occasion, Privates Jacob J. Schoonmaker, Wm. H. Rogers, James E. Nuttman, Jacob W. Norris and John Taylor, and thus was another evening passed in a joyous re-union of these early pioneers.</P>
149.sgm:<P>In the month of March, 1874, the members of the regiment decided to hold the re-union of that year at one of our hotels in consequence of sickness in the family of their comrade, Mr. Wolfe, himself also an invalid, and while arrangements were being effected for that purpose, the proposition was made to those gentlemen having the matter in charge, by a number of '49ers, to join the two elements upon the present occasion, and have a re-union of California Pioneers, on the evening of the 26th of March, 1874, celebrating the twenty-seventh anniversary of the landing of Stevenson's Regiment of New York Volunteers at San Francisco, and the following circular was issued and addressed to all pioneers known to be residents of this and adjoining States:</P>
149.sgm:<P>1847.<HSEP>RE-UNION OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS.<HSEP>1874.</P>
149.sgm:<P>NEW YORK, March 16th, 1874.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The undersigned take pleasure in announcing that arrangements have been completed for a re-union of California Pioneers, to be held at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>575</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>577</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Should you be pleased to participate in the re-union, a response addressed to the Secretary will meet with attention.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF ARRANGEMENTS.</P>
149.sgm:<P><illus entity="a149-0050" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
149.sgm:ALEXANDER PERRY, M.D., <HI REND="italics">Chairman</HI>
149.sgm:<P>LIEUT. J. SHERWOOD, <HI REND="italics">Treasurer</HI>
149.sgm:<P>1172 Broadway.</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. FRANCIS E. PINTO,<HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>106 Wall Street.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Upon the evening indicated there assembled at the Sturtevant House a large and enthusiastic gathering of Californians of the early days--among the number being Commodore C. K. Garrison, General Thos. B. Van Buren, Willard B. Farwell, William Colligan, William M. Walton, Jas. F. Curtis, John Lambier, H. P. Townsend, G. A. Mendon, James Stark, the old pioneer actor, E. W. Crowell, and besides the gentlemen composing the committee of arrangements there were some fifteen former members of the regiment present, and among the guests were Rufus Hatch, Esq., Vice-President of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, and Clark Bell, Esq., Counsel to the Company, who represented the old pioneer Steamship Company of California.  This assemblage unanimously voted that the re-union so worthily inaugurated by the little band of Stevenson's regiment should henceforth assume a permanent character, and upon the motion of Mr. O. H. Pierson, the present company adjourned to meet again, if alive, during the coming winter, and in furtherance of that resolution the following circular was issued, calling a meeting of old Californians at the Sturtevant House, on the evening of the 28th January, 1875:</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>576</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>578</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
149.sgm:<P>RE-UNION OF OLD CALIFORNIANS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>MEXICAN AND AMERICAN.</P>
149.sgm:<P>NEW YORK, January 21st, 1875.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A meeting of gentlemen who were residents of California prior to its admission as a State into the Union September 9th, 1850, will be held at the STURTEVANT HOUSE, Broadway, Twenty-eighth and Twenty-ninth Streets, on Thursday evening, 28th instant, at eight o'clock.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The object of the meeting is for the purpose of selecting a Committee of Arrangements for a proposed Re-union Banquet, at an early day, as also to obtain the views of those intending to participate upon the occasion.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The re-union of the 26th of March last was attended with so much pleasure and satisfaction, that those who were participants, as also many who were unable to be present, have expressed a desire for its repetition the present winter.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Californians of 1851 and 1852, the early days of the Golden State, are cordially invited to participate.</P>
149.sgm:<P>You are requested to be present upon the evening indicated, or may address a communication (giving your views and expectation of participating) to the Chairman, California meeting, Sturtevant House.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Respectfully, etc.,</P>
149.sgm:<P>JACOB P. LEESE,<HSEP>1833.</P>
149.sgm:<P>RODMAN M. PRICE,<HSEP>1846.</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLIAM COLLIGAN,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<P>ALEXANDER PERRY, M. D.,<HSEP>1847.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JEREMIAH SHERWOOD,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<P>O. H. PIERSON,<HSEP>1849.</P>
149.sgm:<P>E. W. CROWELL,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<P>S. D. JONES,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLARD B. FARWELL,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLIAM M. WALTON,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN SICKELS,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS E. PINTO,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<P>J. A. SPERRY,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<P>THOMAS D. JOHNS,<HSEP>1850.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JAMES F. CURTIS,<HSEP>"</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>577</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>579</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>This circular was addressed to all old Californians, known to be residents of the city of New York and vicinity, and to many residing in distant States, and in response there assembled at the Sturtevant House, on the evening of the 28th of January, the following-named persons: Lieutenant Jeremiah Sherwood, George M. Leannard, Russel Myers, Francis D. Clark and James E. Nuttman, of Stevenson's Regiment, 1847; General II. Gates Gibson, O. H. Pierson, John Sickels, William M. Walton, Thomas McSpedon, H. Barnard, Edw. F. Burton, Willard B. Farwell, pioneers of 1849; S. L. Merchant, Thos. D. Johns, George W. Stanton, J. A. Prior, of 1850, and James H. Butler, of 1852.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The inclement state of the weather, a heavy storm prevailing, caused many to be absent who otherwise intended to have been at the meeting.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The meeting was called to order by Mr. Willard B. Farwell, and on motion of that gentleman, General H. Gates Gibson, U.S.A., was chosen chairman, and on motion of Mr. O. H. Pierson, Mr. Francis D. Clark was selected as Secretary.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Chairman stated the object of the meeting, which was to make arrangements for the annual banquet of old Californians resident of the city of New York and vicinity.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. Pierson it was resolved that the banquet should take place on Thursday evening, the 11th of February, at the Sturtevant House.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Chair announced the following committees in connection with the banquet, and who were instructed to make all necessary arrangements for the same.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF ARRANGEMENTS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>VICE ADMIRAL S. C. ROWAN, U.S. Navy,<HSEP>JACOB P. LEESE,</P>
149.sgm:<P>MAJ.-GEN. JOSEPH HOOKER, U.S. Army,<HSEP>JEREMIAH SHERWOOD,</P>
149.sgm:<P>" H. GATES GIBSON, U.S. Army,<HSEP>JOHN SICKELS,</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. RODMAN M. PRICE,<HSEP>WILLARD B. FARWELL,</P>
149.sgm:<P>ALEXANDER PERRY, M.D.,<HSEP>FRANCIS D. CLARK.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>578</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>580</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE ON INVITATION.</P>
149.sgm:<P>MAJ.-GEN. RUFUS INGALLS, U.S. Army,<HSEP>JOHN SICKELS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>RECEPTION COMMITTEE.</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEN. FRANCIS E. PINTO,<HSEP>WILLIAM M. WALTON,</P>
149.sgm:<P>EDGAR W. CROWELL,<HSEP>O. H. PIERSON.</P>
149.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE ON DECORATIONS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JAMES F. CURTIS,<HSEP>MAJ. RUSSELL MYERS,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLIAM COLLIGAN,<HSEP>COL. JAS. E. NUTTMAN.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Clark moved that this meeting proceed to take the necessary steps for the immediate organization of a permanent association, to be known as the "Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California."</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mr. Pierson moved that the Chairman appoint a committee to frame a Constitution and By-Laws for the purpose of such an organization.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Chair appointed as such committee Messrs. Johns, Sickels, Walton, Farwell, Colligan, Myers, Sherwood, Clark and Nuttman, with instructions to make their report on the evening of the banquet.</P>
149.sgm:<P>After a full exchange of views on the part of those present, in relation to the subjects brought before the meeting, on motion of Mr. Merchant the meeting adjourned until the evening of the 11th of February.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At a subsequent meeting of the Committee of Arrangements, the resignation of Dr. Alex. Perry was received, in consequence of his inability to attend the banquet.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. F. D. Clark, the same was accepted, and Mr. S. L. Merchant was chosen to fill the vacancy.</P>
149.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. John Sickels, Major-General H. Gates Gibson was chosen Chairman of the Committee.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>579</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>581</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>REPORT OF COMMITTEE.</P>
149.sgm:<P>NEW YORK, February 11th, 1875.</P>
149.sgm:<P>At the meeting of Old Californians, held at the Sturtevant House, in this city, on Thursday evening, the 28th of January last, theunder-signed were selected as a committee to prepare a suitable plan of organization for a permanent Association, through which the memories of their pioneer experiences in the settlement and development of California, during its territorial and early days, may be perpetuated to the members of such association and their posterity.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Believing that the best way to perfect such an organization is to approach the subject in the simplest and most concise manner, and to act without unnecessary expenditure of time, the committee have prepared the subjoined brief articles of association, which they hereby submit, with the recommendation that they be accepted and signed by all who desire to become members, and by that act thus calling the desired association into immediate existence.</P>
149.sgm:<P>THOS. D. JOHNS, 1850, Chairman.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN SICKLES,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WM. M. WALTON,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLARD B. FARWELL,<HSEP>1849,</P>
149.sgm:<P>WILLIAM COLLIGAN, 1846,</P>
149.sgm:<P>RUSSELL MYERS,</P>
149.sgm:<P>J. SHERWOOD,</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK</P>
149.sgm:<P>JAS. E. NUTTMAN,<HSEP>Stevenson's Regiment 1847.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General Francis E. Pinto moved the acceptance of the report, and on being seconded by ex-Governor Rodman M. Price, the same was unanimously received.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Thomas D. Johns here presented, as Chairman of the Committee, the following:</P>
149.sgm:<P>ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1st.  This organization shall be called "The Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of California."</P>
149.sgm:<P>2d.  It shall be composed of all residents of California prior to its admission into the Union, September 9th, 1850.</P>
149.sgm:<P>3d.  All former and present citizens of California, who resided there subsequent to September 9th, 1850, shall be eligible to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>580</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>582</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:"<HI REND="italics">honorary membership</HI>
149.sgm:<P>4th.  The officers shall consist of a President, Vice-President and a Secretary (who shall also be Treasurer); they shall constitute <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
149.sgm:<P>5th.  All persons eligible to membership as above, shall be and become members of the Association on subscribing to these Articles of Association, and paying to the Treasurer the sum of <HI REND="italics">ten</HI>
149.sgm:<P>6th.  The sums received for membership as above, or from any source whatever, shall be invested by the Trustees in United States Government bonds, and placed for safe keeping in the vault of a reliable <HI REND="italics">Safe Deposit Company</HI>
149.sgm:<P>7th.  The annual meeting shall be held on the 18th day of January, the anniversary of the discovery of gold in California.  But when that day falls on Saturday or Sunday, the meeting may be held on such other day as the Trustees may select.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The articles above enumerated, with the exception of the seventh, as above stated, were unanimously adopted.</P>
149.sgm:<P>An election of officers for the ensuing year was then proceeded with, and General H. Gates Gibson, U.S.A., was chosen President; John Sickels, Vice-President, and Francis D. Clark, Secretary and Treasurer.</P></DIV>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>581</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>583</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:</PAGEINFO><DIV>
149.sgm:<HEAD>OFFICERS OF THE SOCIETY,<LB>
149.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Chosen at the Annual Meeting, held January</HI>
149.sgm: 18 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
149.sgm:<P>PRESIDENT.</P>
149.sgm:<P>General JOHN A. SUTTER, <HI REND="italics">Litiz, Pa</HI>
149.sgm:<P>VICE-PRESIDENTS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. H. G. GIBSON, U.S.A.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN SICKELS, <HI REND="italics">N.Y. City</HI>
149.sgm:<P>GEORGE HOWES, <HI REND="italics">N.Y. City</HI>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN J. HAGER, <HI REND="italics">Rhinebeck, N.Y</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. DEMAS STRONG, <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn, N.Y</HI>
149.sgm:<P>SAM'L C. UPHAM, <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia, Pa</HI>
149.sgm:<P>GILMOR MEREDITH, <HI REND="italics">Baltimore, Md</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. EDW. F. BEALE, <HI REND="italics">Washington, D.C</HI>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. ROBERT H. MCKUNE, <HI REND="italics">Scranton, Pa</HI>
149.sgm:.</P><P>WM. M. WALTON, <HI REND="italics">Newark, N.J</HI>
149.sgm:<P>TRUSTEES.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. THOS. W. SWEENY, U.S.A.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. THOS. D. JOHNS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Col. EDW. F. BURTON.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. C. LYDECKER.</P>
149.sgm:<P>GEO. F. SNIFFEN.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JAMES A. SPERRY.</P>
149.sgm:<P>EDW. R. ANTHONY.</P>
149.sgm:<P>E. W. CROWELL.</P>
149.sgm:<P>WM. C. ANNAN.</P>
149.sgm:<P>SECRETARY FRANCIS D. CLARK.</P>
149.sgm:<P>TREASURER. Hon. JEREMIAH SHERWOOD.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>582</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>584</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>ADMENDED AND REVISED</P>
149.sgm:<P>ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ARTICLE 1.  This Society shall be known by the name of "THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA," and is declared to be a social organization.  Its objects are to form a more perfect union of the Pioneers of California, now residents of the Atlantic States, and to cultivate social intercourse between them.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  To collect and preserve historical facts and information, in connection with the early and subsequent history of the Pacific Coast, and to perpetuate the memory of those whose wisdom, valor and enterprise advanced civilization to the shores of the Pacific.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  The members of the Society shall be classified as follows: Those elected under Art. 6 to be designated <HI REND="italics">Territorial</HI>
149.sgm: members.  Those elected under Art. 7, to be designated <HI REND="italics">State</HI>
149.sgm: members.  Those elected under Art. 8, to be designated <HI REND="italics">Honorary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  It shall be the duty, as it will be the interest, of every member of the Society, to use all laudable efforts to collect and procure such relics, incidents and facts connected with the history and settlement of California, as may be interesting and useful to the Society; and so soon as it is prepared to provide for the care of the same, donations of such articles and information will be received.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  It is declared to be the further purpose of the Society, at such period as its financial strength will warrant, to support a permanent hall in the city of New York, which shall contain the journals and periodicals of the Golden State, a library for the diffusion of useful knowledge among its members, a museum containing valuable records of interest, and curiosities pertaining to the early days of California; as also a head-quarters for residents of California visiting the city of New York.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  All persons who were for any period in California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>583</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>585</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:prior to the 9th day of September, 1850 (the date of the admission of the State of California into the Union), all who served in the Navy of the United States on the Coast of California during the conquest of that then Mexican Territory, and the male descendants of all such, of lawful age, shall be eligible to <HI REND="italics">Territorial</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  All persons whose residence in California dated subsequent to the 9th day of September, 1850, and who were residents of the State for the period of one year, shall be eligible to <HI REND="italics">State</HI>
149.sgm: membership on the same terms as other members, and shall be entitled to all the privileges of the Society, except to hold office; <HI REND="italics">provided</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  Any person who, previous to the 9th of September, 1850, the date of the admission of California into the Union, is recognized as having been prominently identified with, or prominently connected with, California in direct business or commercial relations, and is not eligible to <HI REND="italics">Territorial</HI>
149.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">State</HI>
149.sgm: membership, may, by vote of two-thirds of the members present at an annual meeting of the Society, be admitted to <HI REND="italics">Honorary</HI>
149.sgm: membership, without the payment of the membership fee or other dues, and shall be entitled to all the privileges of the Society except to vote or hold office; <HI REND="italics">provided</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  Any person qualified as prescribed in Articles 6 and 7, desiring to become a member, shall make application to the Secretary of the Society, giving name, place of residence, occupation and date of his arrival, or that of his ancestor, in California; and within ten days after the receipt of such application the Secretary shall transmit the same to the Board of Trustees, and upon the return of the application by them, as approved, the Secretary shall notify the applicant of his election.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 10.  All applicants for membership to this Society must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>584</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>586</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 11.  Each person, on admission as a member of the Society, shall pay into its treasury the sum of <HI REND="italics">ten dollars</HI>
149.sgm:, and an annual assessment of <HI REND="italics">five dollars</HI>
149.sgm:, payable semi-annually in advance, and shall sign the Articles of Association with his name in full, and the day of the month and year of his arrival in California; and if any person residing in the city of New York, for two months after his notification by the Secretary of his election, or if residing outside of the city of New York, for three months after said notification, shall neglect to pay his membership fee and sign the Articles of Association, he shall be considered as having declined to become a member; indebtedness for six months after the semi-annual assessment shall have become due, shall render the member liable to be suspended from all privileges of the Society until said indebtedness has been paid.  This Article <HI REND="italics">shall not apply</HI>
149.sgm: to any member who was elected prior to the 18 <HI REND="italics">th day of January</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 12.  Any member who shall be accused of moral turpitude or misconduct inconsistent with his obligations as a member of the Society, or who shall make a false representation of the time of his arrival in California, shall be notified to appear before the Board of Trustees, and if found guilty, shall be reprimanded or expelled by said Board, and notice thereof shall be given to the members by the Board, through the Secretary, stating the reason of said action:  <HI REND="italics">provided</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>585</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>587</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 13.  The officers of the Society shall consist of a President, ten Vice-Presidents, Secretary, Treasurer, and a Board of Trustees, to consist of nine members.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 14.  The annual meeting of the Society shall be held on the eighteenth day of January, that being the anniversary of the discovery of gold at Sutter's Saw-mill, by James W. Marshall, an employee of General John A. Sutter.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 15.  The election for officers, all of whom shall be qualified members of the Society, shall be holden at the annual meeting, and their election shall be by ballot.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 16.  The officers of the Society shall hold office for one year, or until their successors have been elected and qualified.</P>
149.sgm:<P>PRESIDENT.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 17.  The President shall preside at the meetings of the Society, and of the Board of Trustees.  He shall preserve order and decorum, and shall announce the order of business, and decide questions, subject to an appeal by any two members.  He is also empowered to call a special meeting of the Society at any time that it may, in his opinion, be deemed necessary; the call to be made through the Secretary of the Society by written or printed notice to each member.</P>
149.sgm:<P>VICE-PRESIDENT.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 18.  The First Vice-President shall preside and perform all the duties of the office of the President in the absence or disqualification of that officer; and in the event of the death or resignation of the President, he shall succeed him during the remainder of his term; and in the absence of the President and the First Vice-President the senior Vice-President present shall perform the duties of the office.</P>
149.sgm:<P>SECRETARY.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 19.  The Secretary shall keep a record of all the proceedings of the Society, and of the Board of Trustees.  He shall record its Articles of Association in a book to be kept <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>586</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>588</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>He shall be responsible for the safe-keeping of all books of record and papers belonging to the office of the Secretary.</P>
149.sgm:<P>He shall, whenever directed by the President, give the members of the Society and Board of Trustees proper notice of all meetings, and shall perform such other duties as may be assigned to him by the Board of Trustees.</P>
149.sgm:<P>TREASURER.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 20. The Treasurer shall collect the admission fees and dues, and shall hold all the money, evidences of indebtedness, and valuable documents of the Society.  He shall not pay any money except upon an authorization signed by the President and countersigned by the Secretary of the Society.  He shall make a report every six months to the Board of Trustees, and exhibit in detail his receipts and payments, and the balance in the treasury, and if invested, how; <HI REND="italics">provided</HI>
149.sgm:, that the Treasurer is not authorized, nor are the Board of Trustees empowered, to appropriate or direct the payment of any money from the funds held by the Treasurer from <HI REND="italics">membership fees</HI>
149.sgm:.  Such money shall be held as a permanent fund of the Society, the interest, <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
149.sgm:<P>He shall keep a regular account of the financial affairs of the Society, an abstract of which he shall exhibit, accompanied by satisfactory vouchers, at each annual meeting of the Society; at the expiration of his term of office he shall deliver to his successor all moneys, evidences of indebtedness, valuable documents, books, vouchers and other papers in his possession belonging to the Society.</P>
149.sgm:<P>LIBRARIAN.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 21.  It shall be the duty of the Librarian to keep a full and accurate catalogue of all the books, magazines, maps, charts, relics or other property belonging to the Society, and arrange them in proper order.  He shall make a record of all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>587</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>589</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The Secretary shall be, <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
149.sgm:<P>BOARD OF TRUSTEES.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 22.  The Board of Trustees, of which the President and Secretary shall be members by virtue of their respective offices, shall meet for the transaction of business at such time and place as the President of the Society shall direct.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The President of the Board shall, upon the receipt of an application for membership from the office of the Secretary of the Society, make inquiry as to the moral character and social standing of the applicant; and if the information received be satisfactory, the application shall be returned with the indorsement <HI REND="italics">Approved</HI>
149.sgm:, if to the contrary, it shall be indorsed <HI REND="italics">Rejected</HI>
149.sgm:<P>A majority of the members of the Board shall constitute a quorum to transact the business of the Society.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Board shall have charge and control of the personal property of the Society.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Board shall direct the investment of the funds received by the Treasurer from the membership fees, or from any special donation to the permanent fund of the Society, in United States Government bonds, where the amount in the hands of the Tresurer is sufficient for that purpose, such bonds to be placed by the Board in a reliable <HI REND="italics">Safe Deposit Company</HI>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>588</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>590</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>The Board is empowered to fill vacancies occurring in any office, except that of President, until the next annual meeting.</P>
149.sgm:<P>The Board shall have power to appropriate the funds of the Society, <HI REND="italics">not otherwise prohibited</HI>
149.sgm:<P>The Board shall examine all bills paid by the Treasurer, as otherwise provided, at least once in every three months.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 23. The President, on the decease of any member in good standing, shall call a meeting of the Society; and the obituary and resolutions passed at such meeting may be published in a newspaper published at the place of residence of the deceased, and the Secretary shall communicate the proceedings to the family or relatives of the deceased.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 24.  When the Board of Trustees shall be satisfied that any worthy member of the Society is unable, for the time being, to pay the yearly dues hereinbefore prescribed, it shall have power to remit such dues.  But if any member of this Society, having the ability to pay the yearly dues hereinbefore prescribed, shall refuse to pay the same, and shall not, at the time of such refusal, render an excuse that shall be satisfactory, he shall be debarred from all privileges of the Society, the Secretary shall cause his name to be erased from the roll, and he shall not again be admitted as a member except by two-thirds vote of the Board of Trustees, and upon such conditions as the Board shall deem fit to impose.</P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 25.  It shall be the duty of the Board of Trustees to create a Relief Fund; and they shall cause to be transferred thereto, from time to time, from the General Fund, any surplus money there may be therein, beyond the estimated current expenses of the Society for the year.  And all moneys obtained by the Society from any and all sources for charitable uses, shall be paid into said Relief Fund, and be disbursed under the direction of the Board of Trustees, to aid such members as shall, in their judgement, be entitled thereto. </P>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 26. The Articles of Association may be amended at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>589</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>591</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>ART. 27. These revised Articles shall take effect immediately upon their passage, and shall supersede those in force heretofore.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Examined and approved.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JAMES A. SPERRY,</P>
149.sgm:<P>THOMAS D. JOHNS,  <HI REND="italics">Committee</HI>
149.sgm:<P>JOHN GAULT,</P>
149.sgm:<P>The above Committee was appointed at the annual meeting held January 18th, 1878, to revise the foregoing Articles.  Their action to be final.</P>
149.sgm:<P>FRANCIS D. CLARK, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
149.sgm:<P>ROLL OF MEMBERS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>JANUARY 18 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
149.sgm:<P>TERRITORIAL MEMBERS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1833.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Jacob P. Leese,<HSEP>San Antonio, Texas.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1839.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. John A. Sutter,<HSEP>Litiz, Lancaster Co., Pa.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1843.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. John C. Fremont,<HSEP>Arizona Territory.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1846.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. Rodman M. Price,<HSEP>Ramsey, Bergen Co., N.J.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. Edw. F. Beale,<HSEP>Washington, D.C.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. Joseph W. Revere,<HSEP>Morristown, N.J.</P>
149.sgm:<P>William Colligan,<HSEP>58 Monroe St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John Dolman,<HSEP>727 Walnut St., Phila., Pa.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>590</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>592</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Edward C. Kemble,<HSEP>312 E. 79th St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Dr. George McKinstry,<HSEP>Old San Diego, Cal.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1847.--(Stevenson's Regiment.)</P>
149.sgm:<P>Francis D. Clark,<HSEP>16 Cortlandt St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Joseph Evans,<HSEP>70 High St, Newark, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Russell Myers,<HSEP>3 West 27th St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Charles J. McPherson,<HSEP>604 9th Ave, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>James E. Nuttman,<HSEP>Newark, N.J.</P>
149.sgm:<P>William H. Rogers,<HSEP>1363 Fulton St., Brooklyn, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Judge Theron R. Per Lee,<HSEP>Baltimore, Md.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. Jeremiah Sherwood,<HSEP>1180 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John Wolfe,<HSEP>114 West 23d St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1848.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. James S. Wethered,<HSEP>100 East 23d St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1849.</P>
149.sgm:<P>William C. Annan,<HSEP>160 Fulton St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Edw. R. Anthony,      70 Wall St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Col. Edw. F. Burton,<HSEP>Custom-house, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Russell W. Benedict,<HSEP>102 Wall St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Mark Brumagim,<HSEP>9 Nassau St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Stephen M. Barbour,<HSEP>154 N. 9th St., Phila., Pa.</P>
149.sgm:<P>E. W. Crowell,<HSEP>40 Pine St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>David M. Chauncey,<HSEP>140 Joralemon St., B'klyn, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Henry K. Cummings,<HSEP>205 N. Water St, Phila., Pa.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Robert W. Dowling,<HSEP>105th St. and 11th Ave., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John S. Ellis,<HSEP>96 Wall St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Willard B. Farwell,<HSEP>New York.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John H. Fisher,<HSEP>97 First Place, Brooklyn, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John Gault,<HSEP>71 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. H. G. Gibson, U.S.A.,<HSEP>Fort Wadsworth, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A. T. Goodell,<HSEP>451 East 57th St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>R. R. Griffith, Jr.,<HSEP>202 McCullough St., Balto., Md.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. Joseph Hooker, U.S.A.,<HSEP>Garden City, L.I.</P>
149.sgm:<P>H. B. Hawkins,<HSEP>35 Broad St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John J. Hager,<HSEP>Rhinebeck, Dutchess Co., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John H. Harris,<HSEP>90 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John G. Hodge,<HSEP>San Francisco, Cal.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Joseph B. Hill,<HSEP>Great Neck, L.I.</P>
149.sgm:<P>George H. Johnson,<HSEP>747 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Benjamin W. Jenness,<HSEP>220 Lewis St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John Laimbeer,<HSEP>245 West 50th St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>R. J. Paulison,<HSEP>Hackensack, N.J.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>591</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>593</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. Cornelius Lydecker,<HSEP>Englewood, N.J.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. Robert H. McKune,<HSEP>Scranton, Pa.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gilmor Meredith,<HSEP>43 Franklin St., Baltimore, Md.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Com'r Richard W. Meade, U.S.N.,<HSEP>Huntington, L.I.</P>
149.sgm:<P>James J. McCloskey,      113 Spencer St., Brooklyn, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. Francis E. Pinto,<HSEP>37 Pearl St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Oliver H. Pierson,<HSEP>59 West Ninth St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Joseph M. Pray,<HSEP>179 Montague St., B'klyn, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Silas H. Quint,<HSEP>14 S. 4th St., Philadelphia, Pa.</P>
149.sgm:<P>John Sickels,<HSEP>25 Pine St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Joseph S. Spinney,<HSEP>66 1/2 Pine St. N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>A. A. Selover,<HSEP>52 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>George F. Sniffin,<HSEP>239 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>James A. Sperry,<HSEP>145 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. Thos. W. Sweeny, U.S.A.,<HSEP>314 East 120th St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. Demas Strong,<HSEP>67 Broadway, Brooklyn, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Robert J. Tiffany,<HSEP>San Francisco, Cal.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Samuel C. Upham,<HSEP>25 S. 8th St., Philadelphia, Pa.</P>
149.sgm:<P>William M. Walton,<HSEP>19 Dey St, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1850--(Prior to September 9th.)</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. James F. Curtis,<HSEP>50 Pine St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>George Howes,<HSEP>82 South St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>C. C. Hastings,<HSEP>51 West 46th St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Gen. Thomas D. Johns,<HSEP>95 Liberty St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Beverly C. Sanders,<HSEP>71 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Capt. Joseph Spinney,<HSEP>338 Pearl St., Brooklyn, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>STATE MEMBERS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1850--(Subsequent to September 9th.)</P>
149.sgm:<P><ANCHOR ID="na-16a">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm: Gen. Charles S. Merchant,<HSEP>Carlisle, Pa.</P>
149.sgm:<P><ANCHOR ID="na-16b">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<P>Stephen L. Merchant,<HSEP>53 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P><ANCHOR ID="na-16c">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<P>Charles R. Thompson,<HSEP>73 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na-16a na-16b na-16c na-16d na-16e">Enrolled prior to January 18th, 1876.</NOTE>
149.sgm:<P>1852.</P>
149.sgm:<P><ANCHOR ID="na-16d">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<P>James H. Butler,<HSEP>9 Maiden Lane, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P><ANCHOR ID="na-16e">*</ANCHOR>
149.sgm:<P>Charles W. Schuman,<HSEP>24 John St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Capt. James H. Merryman,<HSEP>16 Broadway, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>1853.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Hon. C. K. Garrison,<HSEP>40 Park Ave., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>William R. Garrison,<HSEP>5 Bowling Green, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>592</CONTROLPGNO>
149.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>594</PRINTPGNO>
149.sgm:<P>1859.</P>
149.sgm:<P>George W. Gilbert,<HSEP>25 Wall St., N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Lewis Leland,<HSEP>Sturtevant House, N.Y.</P>
149.sgm:<P>HONORARY MEMBERS.</P>
149.sgm:<P>Reuben Lord,<HSEP>Stapleton, Staten Island, N.Y. </P>
149.sgm:<P>Effingham B. Sutton,<HSEP>82 South St., N.Y.</P>
150.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-150</TITLE>
150.sgm:<TITLE>Early recollections of the mines, and a description of the great Tulare valley.  By J.H. Carson ... Stockton, To accompany the steamer edition of the "San Joaquin republican", 1852:  a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
150.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
150.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
150.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
150.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
150.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
150.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
150.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>31-11889</LCCN>
150.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
150.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
150.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>VOL. 42 <HANDWRITTEN>1</HANDWRITTEN>
150.sgm:<HSEP>No. 4 <HANDWRITTEN>4</HANDWRITTEN>
150.sgm:<LB>THE<LB>MAGAZINE OF HISTORY<LB>WITH<LB>NOTES AND QUERIES<LB>Extra Number -- No. 165 <HANDWRITTEN>4</HANDWRITTEN>
150.sgm:<LB>LIFE IN CALIFORNIA<HSEP><HI REND="italics">(1852) James H. Carson</HI>
150.sgm:<P>STOCKTON, CAL. 1852<LB>REPRINTED<LB>TARRYTOWN, N.Y.<LB>WILLIAM ABBATT<LB>1931<LB>BEING EXTRA NUMBER 165 <HANDWRITTEN>4</HANDWRITTEN>
150.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<HEAD>EDITOR'S PREFACE</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>THIS is one of the rarest Pacific Coast items which we hav eprinted.  Mr. R. E. Cowan, the chief authority on California bibliography, says of it "It is the first book printed in Stockton, and one of the really great books of early California.  He gives an account of the discovery of gold, with characteristic sketches of the early miners," etc.  Very few copies of it are known to exist.  In the Huntington sale, January 1923, it brought $470, and it is from the copy owned by the Huntington Library that we have made ours.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Mr. Cowan also says: There is no first edition in pamphlet form, as the first edition was in the form of a supplement to the "Steamer Edition," but this was not repeated on the title page.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The blue wrappers we insert are as near a match to the original as can be found at present</P>
150.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>SECOND EDITION.<LB>LIFE IN CALIFORNIA</P>
150.sgm:<P>TOGETHER WITH A</P>
150.sgm:<P>Description of the Great Tulare Valley.</P>
150.sgm:<P>BY JAMES H. CARSON, ESQ.</P>
150.sgm:<P>THE DISCOVERER OF CARSON'S CREEK, AND ONE OF THE EARLY</P>
150.sgm:<P>PIONEERS OF THE WEST.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Stockton.</P>
150.sgm:<P>PRINTED AND PUBLISHED AT THE OFFICE OF THE</P>
150.sgm:<P>``SAN JOAQUIN REPUBLICAN.''</P>
150.sgm:<P>1852.</P>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<DIV><AD><P>E. S. HOLDEN.<HSEP>J. P. HAVEN.<LB>Sign of ``The Good Samaritan.''<LB>E. S. HOLDEN &amp; CO.<LB>IMPORTERS AND WHOLESALE DEALERS IN<LB>DRUGS, MEDICINES<LB>Perfumery, &amp;c., &amp;c.<LB>NEW BRICK BUILDING <HI REND="italics">Corner of El Dorado and Main Streets</HI>
150.sgm:,<LB>STOCKTON.<LB>MANUFACTURERS OF<LB>HOLDEN'S CELEBRATED DIARRHEA CORDIAL<LB>HOLDEN'S SARSAPARILLA MEAD.<LB>HOLDEN'S FEVER AND AGUE REMEDY!<LB>HOLDEN'S<LB>AMBROSIAL MEAD &amp; LEMON SYRUP.<LB>Constantly on hand an extensive assortment of<LB>TOOTH AND HAIR BRUSHES, &amp;c., &amp;c.,<LB>Of superior quality.</P>
150.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>EARLY</P>
150.sgm:<P>RECOLLECTIONS OF THE MINES,</P>
150.sgm:<P>AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE</P>
150.sgm:<P>GREAT TULARE VALLEY.</P>
150.sgm:<P>BY JAMES H. CARSON, ESQ.</P>
150.sgm:<P>THE DISCOVERER OF CARSON'S CREEK, AND ONE OF THE</P>
150.sgm:<P>PIONEERS OF THE WEST.</P>
150.sgm:<P>STOCKTON:</P>
150.sgm:<P>PUBLISHED TO ACCOMPANY THE STEAMER EDITION OF THE ``SAN JOAQUIN REPUBLICAN.''</P>
150.sgm:<P>1852</P>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>TO THE</P>
150.sgm:<P>HON. A. RANDALL.</P>
150.sgm:<P>OF MONTEREY, CAL.;</P>
150.sgm:<P>PROFESSOR OF GEOLOGY AND BOTANY, WHO HAS SPARED NEITHER</P>
150.sgm:<P>ENERGY NOR EXPENSE IN THE HISTORICAL RESEARCHERS</P>
150.sgm:<P>OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
150.sgm:<P>THIS HUMBLE WORK</P>
150.sgm:<P>IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY HIS</P>
150.sgm:<P>OBLIGED AND OBEDIENT SERVANT,</P>
150.sgm:<P>THE AUTHOR.</P>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF THE MINES.<LB>EARLY DISCOVERIES OF GOLD, &amp;C.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>HAVING seen many communications in the various papers printed in California, on different subjects of interest to the people, I am prompted to furnish a few particulars connected with the history of the times and people in California, from 1846 to 1852.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The Military and Naval operations, the conquest and acquirement of California, are matters of history, and are now before the people.</P>
150.sgm:<P>To the ``good old times'' now past, when each day was big with the wonders and discoveries of rich diggings, I would like to principally confine my observations.</P>
150.sgm:<P>A party of Mormons, who were constructing a saw mill, (where Coloma now stands,) under MR. MARSHALL, it is well known, first discovered that gold was to be had here for the trouble of picking it up.  After they had procured a small quantity of the dust, they hastened to that old knight of pioneers, Capt. Sutter, for consultation.  What the shining scales were they could not properly decide, but they thought it was gold; it looked like it, felt like it, and the stuff had no suspicious `` <HI REND="italics">smell!</HI>
150.sgm:<P>San Francisco, which then consisted of twelve or thirteen houses scattered along the sand hills, was consulted, <HI REND="italics">and the metal pronounced to be virgin gold</HI>
150.sgm:.  The effect that this decision had on our quiet citizens was electric.  The population of California, at that day, consisted of hardy, brave, and quiet men, who had travelled over the trackless wilderness with their wives and little ones, their flocks and herds; and amidst dangers, toils, and sufferings had reached the Western confines of our continent and unfurled the broad banner of freedom, and beneath it were quietly cultivating our rich valleys, unconscious of the gold laden hills that surrounded them.  The first reports of the immense quantities of gold found on every river, gulch, and ravine, was not believed by these good pioneers of 1846, and the continued arrival of pounds, <HI REND="italics">arrobas</HI>
150.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">fanegas</HI>
150.sgm: of the precious metal, soon quieted all doubts on the subject, and a general stampede took place in the different settlements.  The many comic scenes that were enacted would fill a volume of humor.  Men who ere then were content to labor years for a few hundred dollars, and many hard-working, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>Yes, Billy, I can see you yet, just as you stood before me on that sunny tenth day of May looking so much like the devil with that great bag of the Tempter on your back! Then he told me that it was gold, and that he had made it in five weeks at Kelsy's and the dry diggings (where Placerville now is.) I could not believe it but told him the proof would be in his bag, which was soon opened, and out the metal tumbled; not in dust or scales, but in pieces ranging in size from that of a pea to hen's eggs; and, says he, ``this is only what I picked out with a knife.'' There was before me proof positive that I had held too long to the wrong side of the question.  I looked on for a moment; a frenzy seized my soul; unbidden my legs performed some entirely new movements of polka steps--I took several--houses were too small for me to stay in; I was soon in the street in search of necessary outfits; piles of gold rose up before me at every step; castles of marble, dazzling the eye with their rich appliances; thousands of slaves, bowing to my beck and call; myriads of fair virgins contending with each other for my love, were among the fancies of my fevered imagination.  The Rothschilds, Girard and Astors appeared to me but poor people; in short, I had a very violent attack of the Gold Fever.</P>
150.sgm:<P>One hour after I became thus affected, I was mounted on an old mule, armed with a wash-hand basin, fire shovel, a piece of square iron pointed at one end, a blanket, rifle, a few yards of jerked beef, and a bag of <HI REND="italics">penola</HI>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>No roads marked the way to the traveller in California then: but, guided by the sun and well-known mountain peaks, we proceeded on our journey.  No ferries were in operation for our passage across the deep and rapid streams.  The site of the now beautiful and flourishing city of Stockton was then alone in its native greatness; no steamboat's whistle was heard to startle the affrighted elk, nor had the newsboys' call been heard, or solemn bell called forth the sons of prayer.  But still there was a little mud.  Heedless of all difficulties, on, on I sped, until Mormon Island, on the South Fork brought me up.  Some forty or fifty men were at work with the cradle machines, and were averaging about eight ounces per day to the man.  But a few moments passed before I was knee deep in water, with my wash-basin full of dirt, plunging it about endeavoring to separate the dirt from the gold.  After washing some fifty pans of dirt, I found I had realized about four bits' worth of gold.  Reader, do you know how an <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
150.sgm: feels when the gold fever heat has suddenly fallen to about zero? I do.  Kelsey's and the old dry diggings had just been opened, and to them I next set out; a few hours' ride brought me to the Indian-trading camp of Captain Weber's famed company, where I saw sights of gold that revived the fever again.  I saw Indians giving handsful of gold for a cotton handkerchief or a shirt--and so great was the income of the Captain's trading houses that he was daily sending out mules packed with gold, to the settlements.--And no man in California was more deserving of this good fortune than Capt. Weber; he was one of the men of the Bear Flag.  His time and fortunes had been given to the American cause, and he was ever seen in our ranks where danger threatened.  Geology had not been deeply studied by our sons of the ``forest wild,'' and many were the conjectures formed as to <HI REND="italics">whar</HI>
150.sgm:<P>A party accompanied Mr. Kelsey, and discovered the first dry diggings, which were named Kelsey's diggings, after their discoverer.--The next discovered was the old dry diggings, out of which so many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>Clothing was not to be had for love or gold; and I have seen many an <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
150.sgm:<P>The first scales for weighing gold were made by taking a piece of pine wood for the beam, pieces of sardine boxes for scales, and silver dollars for weights.  Gold dust could be purchased in any quantity at four and five dollars per ounce in the diggings, and for six and eight dollars in the coast towns.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Sutter's Fort was the great mart for trade.  Sutter's <HI REND="italics">Embarcadero</HI>
150.sgm:<P>Honesty (of which we now know so little) was the ruling passion amongst the miners of '48.  Old debts were paid up; heavy bags of gold dust were carelessly left laying in their brush homes; mining tools, though scarce, were left in their places of work for days at a time, and not one theft or robbery was committed.</P>
150.sgm:<P>In August, the old diggings were pronounced as being ``dug out,'' and many prospecting parties had gone out.  Part of Weber's trading establishments had secretly disappeared, and rumors were afloat that the place where all the gold ``came from'' had been discovered South, and a general rush of the miners commenced that day.</P>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>Before bidding farewell to the Northern mines, and taking the reader South, I would remark that the South and North forks of the American river, Feather and Yuba rivers, Kelsey's and the old dry diggings, were all that had been worked at this date.  The Middle and North fork were discovered by a few deserters in September, where, in the space of a few days, they realised from five to twenty thousand dollars each, and then left California by the first conveyance.  Tools for mining purposes were scarce and high--a pick, pan and shovel ranging from $50 to $200; butchers' knives from $10 to $25, and cradle-washing machines from $200 to $800 each.  Provisions were worth $2 per lb., woollen shirts $50 each, boots and shoes from $25 to $150 per pair.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The discovery of Sutter's Creek and Rio Seco was made in July, and the Moquelumne-river diggings, at which there was but little done, that season.  Mr. Wood, with a prospecting party, discovered at the same time Wood's Creek, on the Stanislaus, out of which the few who were there then were realising two and three hundred dollars per day, with a pick and knife alone.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Carson, who had been directed by an Indian, discovered what has since been known as Carson's Creek, in which himself and a small party took out, in ten days, an average of 180 ounces each.  Angel also discovered Angel's Creek, at which he wintered in 1848.  Ever first with the discoveries were Capt. Weber's trading stores--John and Daniel Murphy, and Dr. Isabell being with them.  With many traders, in those days, weighing gold for Indians and white people was a different matter; honesty, generosity, and justice marked their every transaction with the Christian, but they had weights and prices for the Indians.--And if this should meet the eyes of any of them, they will please receive the thanks of the writer for teaching him the art of ``throwing the lead'' for the benefit of the Digger Indians.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The gold discoveries reached no farther south during 1848--with the exception of the Tuolumne, on which gold was only known to exist.--The rains commenced the last of October, which drove full two-thirds of the diggers down to the coast, where we will follow them directly.  Those who remained in the mines during the winter of '48, made but little at mining, as the supplies for their subsistence were so high as to absorb all they made--but the traders amassed fortunes.</P>
150.sgm:<P>In 1846 and '47, the price of the finest horses was $20; fat bullocks, $6; wild mares, 75 cents each; flour and vegetables, ``we didn't had any.'' We lived on beef and beans--beef dried, fried, roasted, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>The morals of the miners of '48 should here be noticed.  No person worked on Sunday <HI REND="italics">at digging</HI>
150.sgm: for gold--but that day was spent in <HI REND="italics">prospecting</HI>
150.sgm:<P>Now let us look at the coast cities and the settlements during '47 and '48.  The first emigration to California from the United States took place in 1846.  Many persons perished in the mountains, or were compelled to subsist on the flesh of their dead companions.  These men--injured to toil, knowing no fear: with hearts that had grown big with the love of freedom--soon hoisted a Flag of Independence, determined to build up a Republic on the Pacific.  The war with Mexico brought to our shores the broad stripes and bright stars of America.  The <HI REND="italics">Bear Flag</HI>
150.sgm: was hoisted, and beneath it, under Col. Fremont and other brave officers, were soon enrolled those sons of the forest who followed their leaders against the enemy through the hard winter of '46.  Their hardships and sufferings through that campaign were unequalled by any during the war with Mexico.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>But little progress was made in agriculture pursuits during '47--.  In the spring of 1848, considerable crops were sown, of wheat in particular.  San Francisco, Monterey and San Jos&acute;e were fast improving under the head of industry, and many comfortable buildings were erected.  Sonoma and Santa Cruz were also becoming settled.  The discovery of the gold mines put an entire stop to these improvements.--The towns were deserted, ranches with their crops ungathered were left to the mercy of thousands of cattle and horses, with which the valleys and hills were then covered.  The ravens croaked from the housetops, and grass grew around the doors of the rancherias.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The gold discoveries were made known to the Department at Washington by Col. Mason; his reports were taken up by that greatest of all levers, the Press.  Its thousand tongues proclaimed it to the world, and a mania seized the civilized of every land.  A revolution in affairs took place, which naught but gold could have effected, and every man set his face towards the land of Ophir.  Oregon furnished the first emigrants, Chili and Sonora next, and the balance of creation soon followed.  At the close of 1848 our population numbered about ten thousand.  We promised to follow the miners to the towns on the coast, where about two-thirds had gone to winter.  San Francisco, Monterey and Los Angeles had received the greater portion of this heterogeneous mass; men ragged and filthy in the extreme, with thousands of dollars in their pockets, filled the houses and streets, drinking and gambling away their piles.  No supplies or accommodations could be obtained.--In San Francisco, in particular, every house and tent was nightly crowded with these beings, who were in many cases packed away in rooms like shad.  I applied at a public house in San Francisco, in October, for food and lodgings; I got beef broiled, hard bread, and a cup of awful coffee, for which I paid the moderate sum of five dollars.  By furnishing my own blankets and paying a dollar, I got permission to sleep on a bowling alley, after the rolling had ceased, which was near two o'clock in the morning.  Gambling seemed to be the ruling passion--there was no value set on money, as it would not procure the comforts of life, or amusement or pleasure to the holders; millions of dollars were recklessly squandered at the gaming tables and drinking shops.--As soon as a miner became <HI REND="italics">flat</HI>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<HI REND="italics">broke</HI>
150.sgm:, he wended his way to the mines again, to replenish his pile, and then have another <HI REND="italics">bust</HI>
150.sgm:<P>The next exploring party consisted of Messrs. Loveland, Curtis, Swain, Harris and some four others.  This party reached the mountains on the 20th of March, some fifteen miles south of the Merced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>The next party of exploration was more formidable than the two first mentioned.  This party consisted of ninety-two men, under the guidance of Carson &amp; Robinson, of Monterey; they were composed of dragoons and discharged teamsters from the command of Major Graham, which had arrived from Mexico, and a number of disbanded volunteers of Col.  Stevenson's regiment, well armed and equipped.  This party struck into the Sierra Nevada where the Mariposa enters the plains, and explored the adjacent country, finding gold in many places; they thence proceeded to the Merced and Tuolumne and found gold on these streams and tributaries as far as they went.  The reports of these expeditions soon peopled those regions.  Col. Fremont and his party were about the first who dug gold in the Mariposa region on what is known as Fremont's Creek.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Not being pleased with the discoveries South I started back with a small party to the scenes of my former good fortunes; but when I arrived, 1st May, 1849, a change had come over the scene since I had left it; Stockton, that I had last seen graced only by Joe Buzzel's log house with a tule roof, was now a vast linen city.  The tall masts of barques, brigs, and schooners were seen high pointed in the blue vault above--while the merry ``yo ho!'' of the sailor could be heard, as box, bale, and barrel were landed on the banks of the slough.  A rush and whirl of noisy human beings were continually before the eye.  The magic wand of gold had been shaken over a desolate place, and on it a vast city had arisen at the bidding.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The winter of 1848 and spring of 1849 had brought to our shores an addition of some fifty thousand to our population.  Sacramento city, like Stockton, had sprung up Minerva-like, full grown; Sutter's Fort was nearly deserted, or at least no trade was carried on within its walls; Sacramento and Stockton had then become, and ever will remain the great <HI REND="italics">d&acute;epots</HI>
150.sgm:<P>We continued on to the old diggings from Stockton.  When we reached the top of the mountains overlooking Carson's and Angel's Creeks, we had to stand and gaze on the scene before us--the hillsides were dotted with tents, and the creeks filled with human beings to such a degree that it seemed as if a day's work of the mass would not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:leave a stone unturned in them.  We did not stop, but proceeded on to Wood's Creek, in hopes there to find more room to exercise our digging propensities.  But here it was worse--on the long flat we found a vast canvas city, under the name of Jamestown, which, similar to a bed of mushrooms, had sprung up in a night.  A hundred flags were flying from restaurants, taverns, rum mills and gaming houses.  The gambling tables had their crowds continually, and the whole presented a scene similar to that of San Francisco during the past winter.  I have there seen Spaniards betting an <HI REND="italics">arroba</HI>
150.sgm: of gold at a time, and win or lose it as coolly as if it had been a bag of clay.  Gold dust had risen in value from what it was in 1848--as high as ten dollars per ounce was given for gold dust at the monte banks.  Wood's Creek was filled up with miners, and I here for the first time after the discovery of gold, learned what a <HI REND="italics">miner's claim</HI>
150.sgm:<P>In the great emigration that had taken place, the city and state of New York had the majority against the balance of the states; and although the greater part of them were gentlemen and good-hearted fellows, yet there were some of the smallest specimens of the human family amongst them that I ever saw in California.  I have seen some of these arrive in the diggings, and in their settlements quarrel about the amount of four cents' difference.  A man who would quarrel in the gold mines of California, in 1849, about such an amount, must surely have had a soul so small that ten thousand of them would not make a shadow.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Mormon Gulch, Soldiers' Gulch, Sullivan's Diggings, and the Rich Gulch of the Moquelumne, had been rich discoveries, made during the fall and winter, and were now centres of attraction.  Curtis' Creek, and the rich diggings of the flats around Jamestown, soon followed.--In October, '48, a small party of us were encamped on the flat near where Sonora now stands.  Nightly a California lion greeted us with his long howl, on the hill now occupied by the town; he seemed to be conscious that the white man was approaching, and that his old playgrounds were soon to be occupied by a tented city.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The northern mines had also received a heterogeneous mass to their population, and towns were springing up through the mineral <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<P>Each day now added thousands to our population, all of whom came intent on making fortunes in a few days, and then leaving the country; many came on speculating expeditions; property of every description ran up to rates that set the world to wondering.  In San Francisco, in particular, lots and buildings changed hands at rates unknown before in the annuals of trade.</P>
150.sgm:<P>But to return to the diggings.  This swarm of human beings ``laid cold'' the bright calculations of the old diggers of 1848.  They had found gold at every step, and looked on the supply as inexhaustible--that for years to come but few would be here, and that our rich harvest would continue as it then was.  Men who would work could get from one to five hundred dollars per day; and in confidence of this good fortune continuing, these heavy earnings were foolishly spent in drinking and gaming, purchasing fine horses, and dressing in the gaudy Indian style.  Honesty was the ruling passion of '48.  If an <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
150.sgm:<P>But this honesty, so universal in '48, was not to be found in the crowds that daily thickened around us in '49.  Hordes of pick-pockets, robbers, thieves and swindlers were mixed with men who had come with honest intentions.  These rascals had lived all their lives by the ``sleight of hand,'' and it was evident that they had not come to California with gold rings on their white, soft hands, for the purpose of wielding the pick and pan in obtaining their wishes.  Murders, thefts and heavy robberies soon became the order of the day.  A panic seized <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<P>The years 1850 and 1851, have passed.  The world have stood amazed, and looked in wonder at the rapid strides to greatness that we have made.  California has been admitted as a State--a civil government established.  Cities and inland towns innumerable have sprung from chaos.  The depths of the mountains have been made glad by the sound of busy life; the places desolate and lonely three years ago, are now graced by large and flourishing towns; a hundred steamers plough our waters, which had lain for ages unrippled by the hand of man; the plough-boy's merry whistle is heard as he turns up the rich soil, where, as if it were but yesterday, the elk and deer had their play-grounds.  In San Francisco, a city of four years' growth now spreads her bright wings o'er many hills, and laves her bosom far in the depths of the land-locked bay: several times in that short period have we seen her fair proportions laid in smoking ruins, and each time successively rebuilt, more bright, more great; and she now stands the proud emporium of the Western Seas.  Vessels of every civilized nation of earth crowd her docks; and the bells of departing steamers scarcely cease to be heard.  Yet great as she is, her greatness is but just begun to what she is destined to become.  Sacramento and Stockton, the great inland towns for trade and commerce, came into existence almost in a day.  They, too, suffered from the scathing hand of flood and flame, but rose again ere the smoke of their destruction had died away.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The rich mineral and agricultural resources of our glorious young State, are but just being developed; our rich soil, once pronounced barren and unfit for agricultural purposes is now yielding to the farmer its hundred fold, and our march is swift, onward and upward.  Yet, amidst our present prosperity, there is a dark cloud that dampens the spirit of our enterprise--it is the indebtedness of our State, county and city corporations.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Our civil government has been in existence but two years; our State is in debt over <HI REND="italics">two and a quarter millions of dollars</HI>
150.sgm:; our different counties from ten to sixty thousand dollars; the corporations of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<P>The tax-payer very naturally inquires what has become of these vast sums? to what purposes have they been applied? whose pockets do they now fill? Our debts have been contracted by the representatives whom we have elected to office, and it makes no difference to what purpose the money has been applied, we stand pledged as an honorable people to pay it.  <HI REND="italics">California will never repudiate</HI>
150.sgm:<P>Our only export since the discovery of the gold mines of California has been money.  Everything we consume, from the bread we eat to the handle of the miner's pick, has been imported at ruinous rates.  Under these circumstances we cannot but be poor.  The taxation for the support of our profligate government has been paid by the few; this has caused a dissatisfaction in one portion of the State, and a division of the <HI REND="italics">Western gem</HI>
150.sgm:<P>We have around us the sound of the mechanic's hammer and plane.  Go to our valleys and at every step you will see the hand of the farmer scattering the bright seeds on our virgin soil, and the calm smile that plays across his honest, sun-burnt face, assures you that his heart tells him of the return of an hundred fold.  Two years more and California will cease to be a market for foreign products; we will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<P>A word to the miners of the present day, and I am done.  It is to you, <HI REND="italics">diggers</HI>
150.sgm:, I speak--you who are enduring the hardships and privations of the mountains, and working hard to honestly gain a fortune.  Many of you, no doubt, are not making much more than what supports you comfortably, but a majority of you are getting more money per day for your labor than you could per week at any place in the civilized world; and you are happy, independent, and <HI REND="italics">your own masters</HI>
150.sgm:.  A great many are yet realizing large fortunes in a short time.  Don't any of you despair; there are yet just as rich diggings as ever have been discovered, and as large ``chunks'' beneath the earth yet as have ever been taken therefrom.  It is true you have to work harder now to get it than formerly, yet it is to be had; thousands of square miles are yet lying untouched by the pick, beneath which millions of hidden treasure lies concealed.  Never give it up, nor think that the days of making fortunes in the gold mines have passed; Thousands will be making fortunes in the mines of California a hundred years hence.  The mineral lands, as far as explored, are nearly four hundred miles in length, and from fifty to one hundred and fifty in width.  This is a vast field for you to operate in; and if some of you have had bad luck for a time, do not despair, but let your watch-word be ``work, wait and hope.'' If you have worked hard without realizing your desires, try again,--try a new place--work, wait and hope, and your wishes will yet be gratified.  In comparing the prospects of the miner of 1848 with those of 1852, the latter has a decided advantage over the former.  It is true, in the old times we daily took out hundreds and thousands of dollars with a pick and knife; we made <HI REND="italics">piles</HI>
150.sgm: easy, and we spent them <HI REND="italics">tambien</HI>
150.sgm:, for we expected it was to continue so forever.  We had no means of enjoyment, not even a tent to cover us, and the provisions on which we subsisted were but sufficient to support life, and for which we paid high prices.  You of 1852 have to work hard and dig deep--you have every advantage of machinery and improvement to aid you, and your gains in many instances are nearly as large as in the olden time.  Every comfort and luxury of life are at your command, and at prices that are reasonable; you are not <HI REND="italics">taxed</HI>
150.sgm: as you were then, yet you pay a heavy tax from your hard earnings.  The tax here mentioned needs an explanation, to those who have never studied what it is.  Since the day money first became an article <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<P>If you refused to sell or spend your dust, and wished to send it to the mint, or any part of the States, you had, and have yet, to pay from five to ten per cent.  for that privilege.  This silent tax has been paid into the pockets of speculators to the amount of full forty millions of dollars since the commencement of gold mining in California.  This may be said to be caused by the neglect of the general government to furnish us with a mint, whereat the miner could have had the full value of his labor awarded him.  But this state of affairs is about to terminate.  In a few months we fondly hope to have a branch of the Mint of the United States in full operation here, that will close many a shop whose sign is `` <HI REND="italics">Se compra oro</HI>
150.sgm:.''  Getting the full value of your dust is not the only advantage the miner will derive from the establishment of a mint.  A certificate of Mint draft will cost you nothing, and you can forward it to any part of the world; you can send by this method from one hundred to a million of dollars to any point you desire, without having the feeling satisfaction of first paying from five to ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:per cent.  for the privilege.  Therefore, <HI REND="italics">diggers</HI>
150.sgm:<P>A few words relative to miners' claims, and the best means to be adopted for their equalization and adjustment, may not be out of place in this connection.</P>
150.sgm:<P>During the years '48, '49 and '50, the miners managed their claims in the different diggings quietly, and all went on smoothly.  Different diggings, it is true, in many cases had different rules and different amounts of ground to work on--but this scarcely ever caused any serious trouble.  If disputes arose in regard to the ownership or boundary of a claim, it was left to the decision of a few of the miners at work nearest to them, and thus matters were quietly settled without cost to the parties.  During 1851, many bloody affrays occurred in regard to disputed claims; the courts were frequently applied to, and in some cases their decisions only made the difficulty worse.  There can be no power to legislate for the government or apportionment of the public domain, except the Congress of the United States.  President Fillmore, in his message to Congress, very properly recommended that the mineral lands of California remain <HI REND="italics">as they are</HI>
150.sgm:<P>It appears from the many disputes and law suits regarding claims in the mines, (especially in quartz veins, which must prove a source of profit for many years to come,) that the miners should make a uniform and established rule throughout the whole mineral region, setting forth what number of feet shall constitute a claim for each miner.  For this purpose let delegates be chosen from each district--placer diggings, and for the different quartz veins.  Let these delegates be <HI REND="italics">practical miners</HI>
150.sgm: --working men--not useless idlers or hangers on about the mines, who can be influenced by a few dollars.  Let a day be fixed for these representatives to meet in convention in some one of the most central mining towns: not at any of the cities away from the mines, where their deliberations could be influenced or disturbed by designing speculators or gas-blowers.  Let such a convention make rules for the government of mining operations, and make a uniform size to miners' claims in the different kinds of diggings, and let these be binding on all engaged in mining.  In case of dispute or disagreement, let the disputants refer their case to a Board of Arbitration, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:composed of miners; let the decisions of these Boards be governed by evidence, and by the rules and regulations laid down by the proposed convention.  When these suggestions are adopted, the rifle and the knife, and, more than all, the <HI REND="italics">courts</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ANECDOTES AND SKETCHES ILLUSTRATIVE OF CALIFORNIA, AND MINERS' LIFE.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>A FEW sketches from life in the Diggings, in 1848 and 1849, may here prove interesting.  The fortunes being daily made by labor in the mines induced men of every profession and calling to take the pick-axe and pan; mingled together in the search of gold were to be seen Ex-Governors, members of Congress, lawyers, doctors, mechanics of every grade, merchants, men delicate, and men inured to trial, and representatives of every people on earth.  Amongst such a community, the observer of human nature had a wide field for study.  The lust for, and struggle to obtain the wealth of this world, often shows up human nature in all its deformities.  In some, its acquirement brings out the good part of our nature, and men who were looked upon while poor, as savages to their fellow men, prove under the influence of wealth, pure philanthropists and brothers to the human family; but such cases are of rare occurrence.  The effect of sudden wealth on mankind has, perhaps, never been so deeply marked as in California.  I have here seen men leaving the settlements in 1848, poor and nearly naked, for the mines; these men were then the comrades of poor, but honest persons, who like themselves, had labored long in the Eastern States without gaining a competence; after reaching the mines fortune followed them, one success after another had placed them, in the course of a few months in possession of hundreds of thousands of dollars.  This wealth, suddenly acquired, made them what the world are pleased to call gentlemen, in which situation they looked on all companions in disdain because they were poor, and often passed them with a cool nod of recognition.  This was noticed but in very few cases amongst the old settlers, on whom the effect of wealth had not the power to change their natures.</P>
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150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A GRATEFUL SON.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>I worked at Carson's Creek, near a party of men from Oregon.  Some were men of family--others had left sweethearts behind; and one of them, a young man, appeared to have no other design than to make happy his aged parents.  I learned that his parents were aged, helpless, and depended entirely on the exertions of their son for subsistence.  He had struggled hard to make them comfortable; but low wages, and high prices for all he purchased, had kept him from making much progress, and he had now reached California over the mountains with bright hope to illumine his path.  When he reached the diggings, <HI REND="italics">hope</HI>
150.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">doubt</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GOLD AND LOVE.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>Amongst the same party was a lovesick swain, whose marriage had been prevented because he could not raise one hundred dollars in money--a sum that his desired father-in-law required him to have before he could get <HI REND="italics">his gal</HI>
150.sgm:! Most of the party knew these stipulations, and the frequent enquiry of Jake--``Have you raised the hundred yet'' could be heard from some of the party every few moments.  Two or three days passed without Jake making any satisfactory answer, when one evening he took the proceeds of his labor to a store and had it weighed, and found that he was the possessor of nearly five hundred dollars.  This was four times as much as he thought he had, and it pleased him to such a degree that he came pitching into camp like a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:young Buffalo, slapping his hands on his thighs and imitating the crowing of a cock, exclaimed--``Wal, boys, Jake's a married man now, by gosh.''  This raised a roar of laughter throughout the camp.  As soon as quiet was restored Jake informed us ``that he had 'bout five times as much as the old man <HI REND="italics">ever ax'd for the gal</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE SAILOR DIGGERS.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>We had many sailor <HI REND="italics">diggers</HI>
150.sgm: amongst us, who had left their ships in distress in the Bay of San Francisco.  Jack is generally happy and jovial anywhere, but in the gold mines he was particularly so.  One or two days' work in the mines would give him the means of a good <HI REND="italics">spree</HI>
150.sgm:; and if they had clothes to wear, all they cared for was their <HI REND="italics">grub</HI>
150.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">rum</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE DANDY IN THE MINES.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>In the tide of emigration which set into the mines in the latter part of 1848 and during '49, were to be found every species of the human family; and amongst the other animals, a full sized live <HI REND="italics">dandy</HI>
150.sgm: could be seen once in a while, with a very delicate pick, a wash pan made to order in the States, and a fine Bowie knife, perambulating through the diggings in search of ``ah very rich hole, whah a gentleman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:could procure an agreeable shade to work under.''  Of such cases as these, the old diggers generally made play-actors, and gave them the whole diggings for a stage on which to perform.  The dandy has always been known to go dressed in the finest and most fashionable apparel--kid gloves that covered lily white hands, small walking stick, hair usually long, and soaped down until his head shines like a junk bottle, feet encased in patent leather boots, speaking a sweet little language of his own, which is faintly tinged in places with the English tongue, was never known to have done an hour's work in his life, and the oldest inhabitants never knew one of them to have a ``dem cent.''  Such a thing as that, of course, was never made for a digger in the gold mines, although the old 'uns used to make them try it hard.  One of this species came into a ravine on the Stanislaus in which some thirty men were at work; it was the month of June, '49, and the heat of the sun was quite oppressive in the mountains, and most of us were lying in our camps, but were aroused by the arrival of five finely-dressed strangers; four of them were professional men, who, after having struggled hard for years in the Eastern States for a fortune without success, had come to California with the intention of laboring in the mines; they were good-hearted fellows and gentlemen in the true sense of the word; such as these, the old miners always instructed, aided and encouraged by every means, in their worthy undertakings.  The fifth one was a dandy, who, with his soft talk and foolish questions, soon attracted the miners' attention, and his former companions (the first four mentioned) seemed to wish to get rid of him.  For the love of fun, we agreed to take him off their hands, and instruct him in the fine art of handling the pick and spade.  He was first informed that he must get an axe, cut brush and build him a camp, then to take off his fine shirt and a beautiful hat which was of that pattern known as a <HI REND="italics">plug</HI>
150.sgm:; and a flannel shirt and straw hat offered him in exchange.  To this arrangement he could not submit, but informed us that he would not undergo such ``ah dem transmogrification--that he was--ah--gentleman--had been raised as such, and he hoped we had common understanding sufficient to appreciate his feelings; that he had stopped amongst us because he knew we were `dem foin fellows,' and all he desired at present was to be given a rich hole, very easy to dig.''  Such a place was shown him as was known to consist of the hardest earth in the gulch, and where no gold had ever been found.  He set to work with his little pick, which he used about as handy as a ring-tail monkey would.  After working by spells for some two hours, he had thrown out about a bushel of dirt without seeing any gold.  Disheartened, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:he threw down his tools, and came up to where some dozen of us were enjoying the rich sight of a ``dandy's'' first attempt at gold digging.  He was in a perfect rage--swore that the gold mines were a ``dem'd humbug--that Gov.  Mason had written positive falsehoods, for the purpose of enticing young men from their elegant homes to people this desolate region, and he deserved to be rode on a rail for his treachery.''  After he had blown off a long stream of fancy indignation gas, we advised him to cool down and go to work again, and he would have better success; to this he entered a <HI REND="italics">demurrer</HI>
150.sgm:, stating that he was a gentleman unused to such slavery; that it was impossible for him to subsist on such unpalatable food as we furnished him with; and being somewhat short of funds, he requested us to furnish him with dust sufficient to take him back to San Francisco, where he could get into business immediately.  To this request, soft and gentle as it was, we told him that it was rather inconvenient for us to comply, but advised him to <HI REND="italics">hire</HI>
150.sgm: some men to work for him--that he could get good hands for $20 per day, who, he might rest assured, would get out each three ounces, thus giving him a fine profit.  This seemed to please him well, and he set the next day as that on which his future fortunes were to commence.  Early next morning he was to be seen making exertions to hire men to work for him, but without any apparent success, as he soon came back and informed us that the ``dem'd scoundrels had had the impertinence to grossly insult him when he asked them to hiaw out.''  At the bottom of the gulch, off from the rest, an old mountaineer had erected his brush house; and old trappers generally have about the same regard for a dandy that he has for a skunk; and old M_______was one of the oldest stamp, and was about as pleasant a companion to mankind as a grizzly bear would prove to be.  To M.'s camp our dandy friend was directed, as being a place where he would be sure to get one good man at least.  After viewing his toilet for a moment, off he started; the whole population of the hollow was on tiptoe to know the result of his expedition.  Some felt confident that old M. would make him smell the muzzle of his rifle--others that he would work for the dandy in a way that would be quite satisfactory to a man of <HI REND="italics">feeling</HI>
150.sgm:.  But a short time elapsed before a loud yell from the vicinity of old M.'s camp informed us that the beauty ``vat wanted to hire gold diggers'' was in a tight place.  What passed at M.'s camp between the two, we never learned; but the yells drew nearer, until at length the dandy and old M. were seen coming at railroad speed: M. had a brush from the side of his shanty, with which he gave the dandy a loving rap at every jump; and as far as we could see them over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>``POOR QUALITY.''</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>The next useless class in the diggings, after the Dandy, is what is known in the Middle and Southern States, as ``Poor Quality.''</P>
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150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A MINER'S BURIAL.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>The only religious service I ever saw undertaken in the mines in 1848, was at a miner's funeral on the South Fork.  Amongst the miners was one known as ``the Parson.''  Those who were acquainted with him asserted that the Parson had ``onst'' been a ``powerful preacher'' in the Eastern States; but digging for gold had greatly tarnished his Gospel habiliments; in short, he had become carnal, and would take a big drink with any of his friends he met.  A miner had died who was much liked, and we determined to give him as respectable a funeral as circumstances would permit.  The Parson was requested to officiate as minister on the occasion, which he readily assented to, and soon made his appearance at the camp of the deceased--where a goodly number were collected, amongst whom tin cups passed swiftly around, and many a drink went down to the repose of the soul departed.  The Parson never missed a ``round,'' and by the time we got the corpse to the grave, he had become somewhat ``muddled.''  The grave had been dug in a flat some hundreds of yards from the camps.  After the body had been placed in the grave, the miners gathered around it, and the Parson read a long chapter from the Bible, after which he said it was necessary to sing a Psalm.  No hymn book could be procured--and no one had ever committed a hymn to memory, with the exception of the Parson, who soon started one to the tune of ``Old Hundred.''  He got through the first verse, and the first line of the second and there <HI REND="italics">stuck</HI>
150.sgm:.  After several ineffectual and comical attempts to ``start her'' again, he coolly informed us that the Lord had obliterated from his memory the balance of that solemn Psalm, but we would go to prayer.  At the order for prayer some remained standing--numbers knelt around the grave--and one <HI REND="italics">old case</HI>
150.sgm: sat down, remarking, at the time, that he ``knew when the Old Parson had his steam a little up he was h--l on a prayer; and he was going to take it easy.''  The Parson had been praying some ten minutes when some of those kneeling around the grave commenced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:examining the dirt that had been thrown up and found it to be (as they expressed it) ``Lousy with gold.''  This discovery necessarily created an excitement in the assembly.  The Parson had become ``warmed up'' and his supplications for the soul of the departed could be heard ``Echoing through mountain, hill, and dell,'' when he suddenly stopped--opened one eye--and looked down to see what was disturbing his hearers, and very coolly enquired, ``Boys what's that?'' and continued, ``Gold! by G--d!--and the richest kind o' diggins!--the very dirt we have been looking for!'' The truth flashed across his mind--then he raised his hand and with a comic expression of countenance, informed us that the ``congregation are dismissed,'' and it was highly necessary that <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
150.sgm:<P>Suffice it to say, that poor George B_______, was not buried there, but taken from his <HI REND="italics">rich hole</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PROGRESSION.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>Life in California at the present day marks well the change that a permanent community has over a floating one.  The change in affairs with us, has been so great within the last twelve months that those who were acquainted with California as she <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
150.sgm:, would scarcely know her as she <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
150.sgm:.  Where we used to build a canvas city in a day, we have lately taken a whole week, and put them up of wood, stone and brick.  The miner who a few months ago had to pack his kit along almost imperceptible paths, can now find in their place wide, well-beaten roads on which he can be hurried along in splendid coaches, at a rate such as is here required to keep up with the times.  Where a short time ago it took from two to ten days to make a voyage in a launch up the rivers, to Sacramento and Stockton, it is now done in as many hours by fine, comfortable steamers, and the fare and freight charges are also a shade less by these conveyances.  From $30 to $50 had formerly to be paid for a passage, with the pleasure of fighting mosquitoes for a week in an open boat, and the moderate sum of $400 per ton for freight.  Our steamers are now carrying passengers for $5, and freight at $5 to $10 per ton.  The smoke of swift steamers rises like majestic monuments of commerce, as they ply to and from the Bay and inland towns, bearing full loads of freight and crowds of passengers.  There is nothing more emblematic of the progressive spirit of the age, than the rapid succession of improvements in steamboat building in California, The boat of to-day is superseded by a better one of to-morrow; thus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:boats that were ``the pride of the slough'' six months ago, now look as old and primitive as Noah's Ark.  Should you doubt this, just step aboard one of those floating palaces, the American Eagle, Sophie, Kate Kearney or H. T. Clay, that ``bile'' but never ``bust,''--take a view of their ponderous dimensions and comfortable accomodations--their cabins furnished in the highest taste of luxury; then cast a retrospective glance on the little steamer ``Sitka,'' (the first steamer that ever ploughed the waters of California,) the ``San Joaquin'' and the ``Captain Sutter'', and you will think as I--old things have become new.  The runners for these different boats will also inform the travelling public that their respective boats will beat anything else up and down the rivers, or ``bust.''  Such a recommendation would rather intimidate a less <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: people; but here, anything that will ``beat or bust,'' is just the thing to suit.  Anything that is <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONTEREY.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>Monterey being the centre around which some of the scenes of our California life is laid, a description of it and the adjacent country may not be uninteresting here.</P>
150.sgm:<P>It is situated at the head of Monterey bay, on a beautiful plain, which is scooped out of the pine-clad hills surrounding it.  There is not in California a more picturesque or healthy place.  It is one of the oldest settlements in California, being first settled in 1770.  Nearly a century has passed since the first armed sons of Adam commenced the <HI REND="italics">Presidio</HI>
150.sgm: or fortification under the banner of Cortez on the little knoll that overlooks the placid waters of its bay.  Portions of the remaining walls of this fortification, and those of the old Mission, which were built at the same time, are still standing.  The present church, which now stands a monument of ``times long past,'' is within the limits of the crumbling walls of San Carlos de Monterey.  To stand amongst these mouldering ruins causes thoughts of the past and present to roll through our mind; we think of those who lived and died within them ``long, long ago.''  Around the decay of a race nearly past, arise the stately mountains which adorn the present city of our destined race.  Not only on account of antiquity and the unparalleled climate and loveliness of old Monterey, is it made dear to the heart of every true Californian: it is the old capital of <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
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150.sgm:<P>When our eagle soared aloft to view the goodly land for Freedom's sons, it was here she first found a resting place, and from her talons let fly to the western winds our starry flag, beneath whose folds our brave warriors told a wondering world that Pacific's waves now washed great America's western bounds.  Not only was Monterey the first place in California that the American flag was hoisted, but it was the residence of <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
150.sgm: first governors, and from out its old walls went forth the mandates to us to <HI REND="italics">govern ourselves</HI>
150.sgm:; hither a world was told to come--that this was <HI REND="italics">Ophir;</HI>
150.sgm: and here, too, our model constitution was framed and signed.  New things took from it the name of Capitol, and removed it to San Jose&acute;--and since it was removed from there, its ancient seat, it has continued to <HI REND="italics">move;</HI>
150.sgm:<P>Three miles south of Monterey is the Mission and valley of San Carmel.  This Mission, like all others in California, has ceased to exist, and its buildings once teeming with busy life, are now a mass of ruins.</P>
150.sgm:<P>A feeling which cannot be expressed comes over the visitor to these old Missions; it is created by a mixture of sorrow and joy that is such as to make its experience a heart-felt pleasure.  The old churches are generally the best buildings and have defied the decaying hand of time better than the rest.  Their bells, which once sent forth melodious sounds to call their devotees to prayer, now hang silent.  The owl has made its home where the sacrifice was once daily offered.  Where are the old occupants who used to make these crumbling walls resound with busy, happy life? They have passed and gone, to make room for those to whom their lands have been given.  The old Mission of Carmel is built near the seashore, where the Carmel river enters it.  The beautiful valley, the high peaks of the Coast Range that surround it, the pine forest that stretches far to the South, the wild sea that talks in thunder tones along its rock-bound coast, and the baying of the deep-mouthed seal, all tend to make it a romantic retreat for the lover of poetic scenery.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The valley of Carmel is some fifteen miles in length, of inexhaustible soil, and in a very romantic dell, which is now thickly settled by hardy California squatters.  A remnant of those Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<P>The Salinas plain, twelve miles from Monterey, is a beautiful body of land, twenty miles in its greatest width and about eighty in length, of unequalled soil, and watered by the Salinas river through its whole length.  Large portions of this land are covered by Spanish grants, and the remainder is nearly all taken up by pre-emption claims.  The mountains surrounding these plains abound with grizzly bear, deer, and hare; in the valley--quail, plover, curlew, snipe and every variety of geese and ducks are abundant, in their season, on the plains and waters in the vicinity.  In the Carmel river, at certain seasons, salmon and other fish are found in abundance, and the mountain streams leading into the bay and valley contain brook trout equal in flavor and size to those of the Alleghanies.</P>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>JUDGE LYNCH.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>The civilized world may cry down the short but concise code of Judge Lynch, but I feel confident that every honest man in California has hailed it as a God-blessed evil to them.  A depredation was committed; the long rifles of the honest boys were slung across their shoulders, and the depredator was soon ferreted out and brought to trial before a jury, where every chance was allowed the accused to prove himself innocent--if he was found guilty, his punishment was awarded by the jury, and the sentences whatever they were, immediately put in execution.  Petty thefts and frauds were punished by inflicting on the culprit from fifty to two hundred lashes with a rawhide on his bare back, laid on according to the directions in the code.  If the offence was stealing horses, mules, oxen or large amounts of gold dust, death was always awarded; and hundreds of the bodies of these rascals who came to California to steal, because we had no law, now lie rotting in felon's graves.  We were not blessed at that day with statutes as unintelligible as a Chinese Bible, or with hordes of lawyers who, for a pittance, would screen, under the plea of informalities <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<P>Laws to govern us we had none, with the exception of the laws of usage, called by those who do not know its purifying influence in a new population, as Lynch Law.  The laws of Mexico were presumed to exist, but were not enforced but by the consent of all parties concerned in civil cases.  We had Alcaldes who we elected, or they occupied their offices by appointment from the Governor.  To the decision of these, trifling disputes were given as final.  But if theft, robbery or murder were committed, we threw down our mining tools, shouldered our rifles, and the offending parties were soon on a trial before a jury; if he was found guilty, he then and there paid the penalty; if innocent, he was dismissed with an admonition.  I believe there was but one case of these high misdemeanors tried in 1848.  A Frenchman had become notorious for horse stealing in the neighborhood of the Dry Diggings--his propensity for horse and mule flesh became so great that it attracted the attention of the miners, and we determined to put a stop to it.  He was soon caught in the very act of horse-stealing, brought in and tried, and two hours after he was taken, he was dangling between heaven and earth, at the end of a rope.  This severe but just punishment put a stop to thieving exploits, until 1849.</P>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ADMINISTRATION OF LAW.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>Another instance illustrative of the times, was a trial between two Jews at Carson's Creek.  These two sons of Israel had carried on a shop in partnership, and had realized a fortune, but in their settlement, there were twenty-two hundred dollars in dispute between them, and it was given to the Alcalde for settlement, and he referred it to the decision of a jury.  The miners knew that the <HI REND="italics">men</HI>
150.sgm: had realized their <HI REND="italics">pile</HI>
150.sgm: from the labor of others, and were determined that the litigants should at least pay for all the <HI REND="italics">law</HI>
150.sgm: they received.  The first jury disagreed--another was called--that also could not decide; a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:third was made up, which came to an agreement, to the effect that the expenses of the whole trial should first be paid, and then the remainder equally divided between the two Jews.  The <HI REND="italics">bar</HI>
150.sgm: --not of the court, but of the rum mill attached--had been thronged during the day, which bill, of course was to be paid by the disputants.  The bill of costs was soon made up, and amounted to <HI REND="italics">eighteen hundred dollars</HI>
150.sgm:.  This the Jews refused to pay, but the verdict of the jury and the money were both in the hands of the Alcalde, and he informed them that his oath of office compelled him to execute the jury's decision; he therefore paid from their bag the cost, and equally divided between them the remainder.  They did <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LAWYER'S FEES.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>Owing to the mass of beings in the mines in '49; it became necessary for us to have Alcaldes and sheriffs for the different mining districts who were elected to office by a majority of the miners.  They formed courts, before which culprits were brought; they also settled disputes arising out of disputed claims.  They had no enacted laws to govern their actions, but what they thought was right was the law; yet in most cases of petty criminal offences and cases of disputes were left to a jury, who were summoned by the Alcalde.  The Alcalde's fee, in all cases, was three ounces; sheriff's two; and each juror one--with the addition of the price of all the whisky used by the court, jury and witnesses during the trial; if it was a criminal offence the prisoner had to foot the bill, if he was worth it, if not, no pay was required; and in all other cases the party had to pungle down the dust in advance, or they got no law.  As an instance of settling small disputes at the Alcalde's courts, I will mention one or two in which I was summoned as a juror: At the Rich Gulch on the Moquelumne, in the spring of 1849, two Spaniards who were known to have had great luck in digging gold, had a dispute about the ownership of an old mule, worth about twenty dollars, and applied to the Alcalde to settle the matter between them; His Honor informed them that before he could extend the great arm of the law over them they would each have to `fork' over three ounces for the expenses, which was done without a murmur--each commenced his harangue as to the ownership--not one word of which was understood by the court.  After matters had thus progressed for a short time, His Honor informed them, in good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:English, that they had better leave it to the decision of a jury.  This was interpreted to them, and they gladly availed themselves of the offer.  Two ounces more were paid in advance to the sheriff, before he would summon a jury.  A jury of twelve men was soon collected, and the case brought before them.  Neither of the parties could produce evidence that the mule belonged to them; and the jury, after hearing their statements, retired, and soon returned into court with their verdict, which was that the plaintiff and defendant pay each an equal share of the cost of court, and then <HI REND="italics">draw cuts</HI>
150.sgm: for the mule in dispute.  The Alcalde's sheriff's and juror fees amounted to twenty ounces, and the <HI REND="italics">liquor bill</HI>
150.sgm: to three ounces.  This the Spaniards cheerfully paid, drew <HI REND="italics">straws</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE FIRST STEAMER.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>The arrival of the first steamer in the spring of 1849, was welcomed by the thunder of cannon and the overjoyed huzzas of delighted thousands.  It brought news from the Atlantic states only two months old, which was the <HI REND="italics">beginning</HI>
150.sgm: of the <HI REND="italics">future</HI>
150.sgm: short communication, when science and art will almost annihilate time and space.  Previous to this if an outsider was lucky enough to get a newspaper six or seven months old from the States, he stealthily took himself off and adopted a hermit's life until he had read it ``clar'' through, advertisements and all.  If he attempted to read it in a public place he had to take a stand and do it in a loud, slow and plain manner, or hold it up in a perpendicular position so as to allow an immense crowd--front and rear--to aid him in its perusal.  Before the advent of steamers on this coast, communication with the East was <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LOVE FOR CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>Poor thing! No doubt but if <HI REND="italics">evil</HI>
150.sgm: eyes could be allowed to pry into everybody's letters, that many such loving little epistles might be read.  Many men have been here and made fortunes and left, are now fast returning with their families, or with wives at least, to make this their permanent home.  Comfortable homesteads are now to be met with at every turn.  If a man comes to California and stays two years, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:he will never want to leave it.  As an illustration of what makes the old stock return to California, I will relate a conversation <HI REND="italics">verbatim</HI>
150.sgm: between the writer and one of the diggers of '49, who has just returned with a fair bride, and which will also illustrate California etiquette.  The last time we saw each other was at the head of the Calaveras river.  He had been in California seven months, and had made over eight thousand dollars.  The diggins he had had become worked out, and being unsuccessful in finding others as rich immediately, he was sitting in his camp cursing California and everything in it, and pronounced it one of the <HI REND="italics">infernalest</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Writer</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Returned</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">W</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">R</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">W</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">R</HI>
150.sgm:.--``Wal, old cock, the fact is, the people there are so cussed mean, that a man who has ever lived in California can't stand it amongst them.  I hadn't hardly landed from the steamer in N. Y., before a perfect swarm were around me, trying to swindle me out of all, or part of my dust; some of them got so very near and kind around me, that I had to draw old <HI REND="italics">sixey</HI>
150.sgm:, and tell them just look down the barrel and see if they could see anything <HI REND="italics">green</HI>
150.sgm: in her bottom! And don't you think, <HI REND="italics">even</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">W</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">R</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">W</HI>
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150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">W</HI>
150.sgm:<P>This is no single instance of this kind--so far from it, that it is a daily occurrence; every steamer brings hundreds of the same sort.</P>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>GAMBLING IN CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>As gaming is a prominent feature in California life, and no doubt carried to a greater extent than in any other part of the world, a short review of it will not prove amiss.</P>
150.sgm:<P>We who have come from the <HI REND="italics">second</HI>
150.sgm: families in Virginia, have been taught to look on gamblers, and those who follow it as a profession, as little superior to the devil himself.  This view of the members of the <HI REND="italics">black art</HI>
150.sgm:<P>As the first steamer brought the first cargo of foreign masters in the ``mystic art,'' their annunciatory proceedings in California may serve to illustrate scenes in a gambling house during the winter of 1848 and spring of 1849.  Previous to this arrival, ``monte'' was the universal game, in the cities and mines, interspersed at times with ``lump <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:o'gold'' poker.  In the mines, especially in the Stanislaus region, in 1848, I have seen the Spaniards, men and women, betting freely pounds of gold dust on a card, and smoking cigaritos until they won or lost, with as much indifference as if it had been so much gravel.  In the coast cities, (San Francisco in particular,) millions of dollars were daily staked on monte, during that winter.  The scenes of these places of <HI REND="italics">amusements</HI>
150.sgm:<P>It required large capital to become a monte banker, as a small concern would be <HI REND="italics">tapped</HI>
150.sgm: by almost any rough-looking <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
150.sgm: you would meet during that golden reign.  Large banks had their crowds day and night, at which some rich scenes were to be witnessed.  One-half the betters were men who, a few months previous, would have considered their characters ruined forever if they had been seen in such places; they were to be seen ``pungling her down,'' with their heads presenting a mass of hair and beard that would vie with that of Nebuchadnezzar's on his return from his country sojourn spoken of by Daniel; and around which fell in graceful folds portions of the brims of hard-worn ``old tiles'' from under which the only thing human to be seen was a ``jolly red nose'' and a pair of eyes sticking out like a boiled crab; Greasers wrapped in the folds of the everlasting <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
150.sgm:, only watching for a ``sure thing,'' on which to pile down a few pounds of the `` <HI REND="italics">oro</HI>
150.sgm:.'' The rather trim appearance of a few business men could also be seen mixed with the crowd of betters provided the bank was a ``good thing;'' jolly sons of Neptune, who had adopted a country life in California for convenience-sake, could be heard cursing a losing card; and occasionally a bag of dust would be passed in by a son of Africa, who acted as an outsider.  A good house would have four or five of these tables in full operation in it at once, each with its crowd of devotees.  A bar the whole length of the establishment, was the next prominent feature, where ``old red-eye'' was under his different names, issued in a perfect stream to thirsty suckers at fifty cents per glass.  Collected in the corners were small parties, who only loved to gamble so far as to play ``old sledge'' for the liquors, until from their winnings they became so essentially ``corned'' as to make a hard plank on the ground, when they retired to rest, appear ``soft as downy pillows are.'' Groups collected around old <HI REND="italics">topers</HI>
150.sgm: to hear them sing songs.  A pair of dirty lumps of mortality, who had met after a long absence, commenced <HI REND="italics">wetting</HI>
150.sgm: the ties of ``Old Acquaintance,'' and they had become so loving as to hug and kiss each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:other.  A poor devil who had been on a <HI REND="italics">bender</HI>
150.sgm: too long, might be seen out-shaking Belshazzar, and trying to hide from things more dreadful than ``Mene Tekel,'' which he thought he could see upon the walls.  A few overpowered by the <HI REND="italics">fatigues</HI>
150.sgm:<P>During the reign of this state of affairs, the <HI REND="italics">professors</HI>
150.sgm: before mentioned made their appearance from the decks of ``California.''  The billiard rooms in Monterey were the stages on which they made their <HI REND="italics">d&acute;ebut</HI>
150.sgm: in to El Dorado.  That quaint old place which had been many a little old-fashioned monte bank give away before the power of long bags of dust, was made to resound with a voice which told us plainly that old things must change.  These gents brought new games; the billiard tables were stripped of their cloths, and converted into tables for the different games, and stands for those who wanted to auction off extra clothing, guns, pistols, and the most approved Bowie knives.--Monte, roulette, faro, A B C, twenty-one, and the sweat-cloth, had their representatives, who (a new fashion at the time,) praised their different ounce-catchers up in something after this style: ``Here, gentlemen, is the monte bank that will stand you a ``rip;'' walk up you, you chaps with the long bags o' dust; jest bet what you please--it'll all be paid; pungle 'er down pungle-e?'' ``Here you good-hearted fellows is the man, ``vid de weel''--brought this 'ere fixens all the way from home jest to give ye something to amuse you; this, genteels, is vat you calls roulette, the only game vat pays twenty-six times for one; you can jest bet where you please--on any number, column, red or black side, or on the eagle bird; walk up, gentlemen, and make your bets--if you think I would cheat why you can jest turn the wheel and roll the ball yourselves.''  Twenty-one would have its devotee using his powers to increase the size of his circle of betters.  Faro would be extolled for its age and respectability, and the only fair game in the house, the dealer having no earthly advantage but the <HI REND="italics">splits</HI>
150.sgm:.  The man who had the sweat-cloth being a genius of the society whose members are known as ``one of 'em,'' held a crowd around him, he was one of the comic characters we see at times, who come on the stage in this great drama of life and divert the lookers-on for a season, and then pass off.  The inside of the house being full, he had to establish himself under the portico in front.  The rainy season was not over, and the gentle showers which we see falling here at times, were descending in soaking torrents.  In order to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:allow his betters a fair chance, he was standing out-side directly under the droppings of the eaves that were running in perfect streams over his tarpaulin hat and India rubber coat.  His cloth was spread on a bench in front of him under shelter, to which he called the attention of the outsiders by slapping his sides and imitating the crowing of a cock; and in imitation of scenes in other lands, he would, with comic gestures and a Stentorian voice, cry ``oysters! fresh clams! hot corn!'' and many other kinds of commodities that California had never been blessed with.  This idea took--soon a perfect crowd surrounded him, when he commenced to inform them that he had for his own amusement, and for the benefit of the community at large, opened the good little game of ``sweat,'' a little republican game that all could play at--``jist walk up, ride up, tumble up, any way to get up; then stake up to win a fortune--I don't belong to the aristocracy--I don't; I'm jist a plain old devil like all of you--I am! and if you jest bet on old Ned's little game, you'll win--you will! and if any one gets broke, I'll give him money to get a big drink, sure!'' At this offer an <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE CALIFORNIA RANCHO.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>Under the blessings of all the beauties and fertility of soil which nature could grant around Monterey, it is not to be wondered at that its inhabitants were happy; and a picture or two of life in 1847 in its vicinity, will give the reader an idea of a ``ranchero's life'' in California.  The word <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
150.sgm: means here what we term farm in the East.  But there is a great difference in size, ranches ranging from one to thirty miles square according to the grants made to applicants from the Mexican government.  These lands were chosen with the sole view of using them as grazing farms; they generally contain, however some of the most choice portions of our agricultural lands.  In most instances the owners of these ranches have erected large one-story adobe houses, in which lumber of any kind forms but a small item of their composition, being covered with rudely-made tile, and having the ``ground for a floor.''  But few of these buildings have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<P>The out-buildings consisted of rude huts, erected for the Indians, who were always found on the ranches, and who are, in fact, slaves to the rancheros, but under the mild name of Peon.  The principal feature amongst these structures is the <HI REND="italics">corral</HI>
150.sgm:<P>Near these establishments, surrounded by a rude fence, is generally a fine piece of bottom land, well watered, called a <HI REND="italics">milpre</HI>
150.sgm:, which is used for the purpose of cultivating small quantities of corn, beans ( <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
150.sgm:,) pumpkins, melons, and red pepper ( <HI REND="italics">Chili colorado</HI>
150.sgm:<P>The reader (particularly one of the <HI REND="italics">sovereigns</HI>
150.sgm: of the United States,) who has been used to all the comforts and conveniences which the arts and sciences can render to man, will conclude from this picture that pleasure and comfort were rather scarce commodities in the good old times of ``Life in California;'' this, at least, was my impression about those days.  If happiness, in the full sense of the word was ever enjoyed by mankind, it was by the old settlers and inhabitants here before the discovery of gold brought our present mixed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<HI REND="italics">male population</HI>
150.sgm: amongst us.  Let us look at the life of one of the old rancheros, as an illustration of the whole: He is a perfect model of health, if anything generally tending too much to corpulency.  His dress is in keeping with the climate and the semi-civilized age of the country he lives in; his hat, composed of felt, made thick and strong, covered with black oiled silk, has a tremendous brim, with a sugar-loaf crown of enormous height; from its bullet-proof properties, it protects him from winter's rains and summer's suns, and likewise serves as a formidable shield in an encounter with the knife--in a modern phrase, ``it is a hard old tile.''  His shirt with its immense collar made of the finest material, has the collar and bosom fantastically worked with lace and ruffles.  His jacket is fashioned <HI REND="italics">&grave;a la</HI>
150.sgm: man-of-war, and made of fine black or blue cloth.  Pantaloons are of fine white cotton, made in Turkish style, immense legs, the bottoms of which are confined as high as the knee by long white stockings being drawn over them; a pair of <HI REND="italics">calzones</HI>
150.sgm:, made of fine material and faced with scalloped cotton velvet of a different color from the body, opened up the sides and adorned with silver buttons, is drawn over the pantaloons, and usually left open as high as the knee, and the whole fastened around the waist by a fancy colored scarf.  The shoes are made light, of parti-colored buck or elk skin tanned by themselves.  A gaudy colored <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
150.sgm:<P>Having described the ranchero and his rancho, we must pay him a visit to know how he lives.  The visitor was welcomed to one of these old ranchos with an unfeigned cordiality that has now nearly passed away.  You would be embraced by himself and wife, and told by him that his ranchos, horses, wife, children, servants and all he possessed were at his service, as long as you wished to stay.  The whole family also joined in this welcoming.  The ``whole family'' in California, means a great many persons, for it is no unusual occurrence to find twenty-five or thirty children the offspring of two parents, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:mother looking nearly as young as her oldest daughter.  The best the rancho afforded was provided for the visitor, especially if a stranger.  The fattest of the flocks were always killed for food, the choicest pieces taken for the family, flesh cooked in different ways, <HI REND="italics">tortillas, frijoles</HI>
150.sgm: and tea constituted the general subsistence; milk and cheese were also in abundance.  The meat of fat cows was always hanging on a line to dry, and a room filled with jerked beef, so that the hungry about him might eat and be filled.  The month of August, at which time animals of all kinds are fattest, was devoted on the ranchos to killing cattle for their hides and tallow.  From five hundred to two thousand were yearly killed, their hides dried, the principal part of their tallow tried out, the lean portions of the carcass cut in strips and dried, and the remainder boiled down and converted into soap.  The hides, tallow, and soap, formed the exports of the country, and were the only means for the ranchero to convert his stock into money.  Yankee trading vessels were always on the coast to barter goods or pay cash for these articles of export.  Bullock hides of good quality were worth $1.50 in cash, or $2.00 in goods.  Good hides at that day, in fact, passed current for the purposes of internal commerce--they were California shinplasters, and they were the only circulating medium, not coined, ever used with us.  The average price paid for cattle thus sold, amounted to about six dollars per head.  With the proceeds of these yearly sales, the ranchero purchased fine and gaudy clothing for himself and family, and a coarser supply for the Indians in his employ, and also fancy horse equipage for himself and <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
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150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE DIGGER INDIAN.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>The only thing that can be called <HI REND="italics">human</HI>
150.sgm:<P>In the early days of gold digging these Indians looked on in wonder at the exertions of the white man to procure from the rivers and gulches things not to be eaten, but they, following the example of the whites, soon procured some for themselves and found that they could barter it for provisions and clothes.  Indians were at work for miners and others, receiving in payment for their week's work an old shirt or handkerchief.  The wild tribes were soon mingled amongst the whites in all the diggings.  They came in from the <HI REND="italics">bug</HI>
150.sgm: -and- <HI REND="italics">acorn</HI>
150.sgm: hunting grounds, naked as nature had made them.  Beef distributed amongst them had an attraction to bring them to the tents of the traders, whose slaves, in a manner, they became.  All the gold they got was spent for such things as they took a fancy for.  In their first trades, all they had in their possession was given, or offered, for any gewgaw that struck their fancy, as they had no idea of the value of gold.  Thus it was that traders often received for a gaudy colored handkerchief, a fancy string of beads, or a red sash, from fifty to five hundred dollars.  Whatever amount of gold was in the possession of the Indian, he freely offered for such things as he pointed at.  If it was accepted, he would snatch the article up, put down his money, and go off jabbering like a monkey at the idea of the manner in which he had <HI REND="italics">fooled</HI>
150.sgm: the white man.  But this state of things did not continue long.  Old Mission Indians informed them that the whites sold to each other by <HI REND="italics">ounces</HI>
150.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">pesos</HI>
150.sgm:, and that they could get more if they would have their gold weighed.  This opened the eyes of the traders, and some of them procured scales and weights for the <HI REND="italics">accommodation</HI>
150.sgm: of the Indian while on his shopping expeditions.  Whether the Indian gained by the operation is rather doubtful.  Indian prices of goods ranged about as follows; cotton cloth or calico $20 per yard, plain white blankets six ounces, serapes from twenty to thirty ounces each, beads equal weight in gold, handkerchiefs and sashes two ounces each, beef $5 per pound, and every thing in like proportion.  It was not these prices only that they had to pay, as in settling, when the scales and weights were brought out, to look at the slugs of lead called pesos and ounces, and the arrangement of the scales was enough to make a white man blush; yet Mr. Indian regarded it as perfectly fair, and would pile on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>It was laughable to see the manner in which their fancy prompted them to adorn themselves.  Some taking a fancy to shirts, might be seen parading around with a dozen on at a time; others decorated themselves with red sashes and fancy handkerchiefs until they resembled a decorated telegraph; while another portion thought a Spanish hat sufficient to cover their nakedness--and in many instances the wearer of the hat would have his naked heels adorned with a huge pair of California spurs.</P>
150.sgm:<P>In July and August, '48, some of the settlers moved their families into the mines, and the face of the American female was a new source of wonder to the Indian race, and attracted them in large numbers.  Amongst the admirers of the white women, was one tall, fleshy, well-formed Indian, who was as naked as he came into the world, and he seemed backward in going near them on this account, but would stand behind a tree at some distance off, and peeping from behind it, would admire them for hours at a time.  At length he seemed to have formed a resolution to dress himself, so that he could approach nearer to them.  For this purpose he went diligently to work with a sharp stick, digging gold.  He forsook his tribe, and was forever to be found with white men.  An everlasting smile was on his face, and he appeared to be the soul of good nature.  In a week he had got a <HI REND="italics">pile</HI>
150.sgm: sufficient to dress himself up and he wended his way to the camp of a trader: here he purchased a uniform jacket, such as had been worn by Col. Stevenson's regiment, a handkerchief, and a pair of socks, and then commenced to dress up.  The jacket was A No. 1, and the man No. 4.  When he buttoned it up his flesh stood out in a roll around below it; the collar was so tight that it caused the veins in his forehead to swell to the size of a man's finger; he then drew on his socks, and made direct for the camps of the American ladies.  The jacket and socks were all that covered him, the rest of his person being in a state of nature; but he felt sufficiently dressed for an interview with the ladies, and he was soon amongst them, showing himself off to the best advantage--but the pride of human nature is often sufficiently lowered--even that of digger Indians--for our beau was unceremoniously kicked from the presence of the fair sex, by a very rough looking <HI REND="italics">old dad</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WAGONS AND FREIGHT.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>At the time California was first occupied by the Americans, the only means of transportation was by California carts and pack mules.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:The California cart is a curiosity to the American when he first sees it; it is, like the California plough, an Egyptian invention, and may be classed among the relics of antiquity.  To those who have never seen one, a short description may not be uninteresting.  The wheels are made by cutting blocks from the butts of the buttonwood tree, are about twenty inches in thickness, and from two to four feet in diameter; through this a hole for the axle is made, about six inches in diameter; the axletree is made of a heavy oak timber; the tongue or pole is usually about fifteen feet in length, made of four by ten scantling; to this is framed the heads of timbers of like size with the pole; the body or box is made of small poles, arranged around the bed, like a cage.  In these unwieldy things, the ranchers transported to the sea-coast their hides and tallow, and, lined with raw hides, they could transport barley or wheat; or, by putting some beds in the bottom, and covering the top with a quilt or sheet, it was converted into a <HI REND="italics">pleasure</HI>
150.sgm: carriage, in which the Dons transported their lady friends to all places of amusement, or made journeys of business.  On these excursions, the <HI REND="italics">carata</HI>
150.sgm: is usually drawn by five or six yokes of oxen, driven by three or four Indians.  The male portion of the family, mounted on fine horses, acted as escorts of honor, and the whole caravan was usually set off by from thirty to forty half-starved dogs.  With the exception of the few American wagons brought over by the emigrants, these carts were the only locomotive power we had, and long trains of them could be continually seen on the roads leading from the southern country to the mines, from which they never returned, and which in many cases, they never reached, as the numerous wrecks along the road testified.  The speed of these machines was about twelve miles a day, provided they had not to stop to make new axletrees, which had usually to be done once per day, at least.  This means of transportation could not be depended upon for taking supplies into the mines, and those having American wagons would not commence making roads and hauling in supplies, while they could make from one to five hundred dollars per day by mining; and the only means for some time used, was by pack mules.  The price for transportation in launches on the rivers, from San Francisco to Sutter's <HI REND="italics">Embarcadero</HI>
150.sgm:, was from <HI REND="italics">50</HI>
150.sgm: to <HI REND="italics">75</HI>
150.sgm: cents a pound, and from there to the mines, it was near the same price.  Owing to the large supply usually taken in at first by the miners, there was not much transportation required until the winter of '48 and spring of '49, when the price of hauling from Stockton or Sacramento to the mines, ranged from $1 to $1.  <HI REND="italics">25</HI>
150.sgm: per pound.  Provisions, in consequence, had to rise accordingly, and $200 for a bullock, $800 per barrel for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE PIONEERS.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>The foreigners of California, who had been it for several years, were married to daughters of old rancheros, and generally rich and happy.  The restraints of refined society and the bonds of civilization which they were used to in other lands, were here thrown off, and life and the pleasures of this world became doubly dear to them; their natural shrewdness gave them advantage over the native population that proved so beneficial as soon to place them in possession of equal wealth with their benefactors.  Those who had been but a few years here, principally hunters and trappers, continued to live a free, roaming life.  Life in California, with them, might be termed the essence of human liberty.  The climate being that of perpetual spring, the hills and plains were as comfortable residences for them at all times, with the addition of a tent or lodge, as they could desire: they spent their time in hunting sea otter, (with which the coast abounds,) beaver, bear and deer.  The skins of the sea otter were worth here $40 each, and were purchased for the China trade; bear and deer skins and bear's oil commanded good prices, and were purchased by the trading vessels on the coast.  Monterey was the principal trading post for them, to which their furs were brought and sold.  With the money thus obtained, they purchased such necessaries as they needed in the mountains, of which <HI REND="italics">whiskey</HI>
150.sgm:<P>Of all the human family on earth, there are none to excel the hunter and trapper of the American continent in deeds of noble daring and personal bravery.  Amongst hostile tribes of savages he has pierced the depths of the wilderness, thousands of miles in advance of civilization; alone he has set his traps on the inlets that form the heads of the Mississippi, Missouri and Columbia rivers; fearless alike of the dangers from man or beast, he has pitched his lodge in the deepest recesses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE AGUE.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>In the fall of 1848, portions of the northern mines were unusually sickly, and those who remained on the rivers during August and September of that year (if they were not too lazy to shake) had the fever and ague.  A man who got sick suffered; there was no shelter for him, no attention paid to his wants--nor could medical aid, in many instances, be procured.  Thus situated, suffering from disease and neglect, exposed to the hot sun during the day, and to the cold at night, many died.  I met a poor fellow from Feather river, who was trying to reach Sutter's Fort; his teeth were chattering, and his whole frame was in a <HI REND="italics">pleasing shake</HI>
150.sgm:.  On enquiry, he informed me that every body on the river was as bad as he was, and that he only left because <HI REND="italics">the pine bushes</HI>
150.sgm: had taken the <HI REND="italics">ager</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A MONEYED NIGGER.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>I remember seeing the captain of a brig on the beach at San Francisco, who had a crew, with the exception of a cook.  He met a negro, and asked him if he wished to go as cook on his brig.  The negro, after cocking his hat on the side of his head, and bringing his arms akimbo, coolly inquired the wages offered.  The captain informed him that ten dollars per day was as much as he could afford.  The negro, at this offer, burst into a loud laugh, and informed the captain ``Dat if de <HI REND="italics">capten</HI>
150.sgm: wished to hire heseff out for <HI REND="italics">twenty</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A JEW IN THE MINES.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>Amongst our population of that golden day, we had <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
150.sgm: Jew.  The old miners will ever remember Dutch John.  When I arrived in the diggings, old friends hailed from every side, and an invitation was soon given to all hands to go down to Dutch John's and take a <HI REND="italics">big</HI>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<HI REND="italics">drink</HI>
150.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">building</HI>
150.sgm:, like all others then used, consisted of brush cut from the closest trees; his stock of goods, two boxes of crackers, a few boxes of sardines, a few knives, (samples of every pattern ever made,) a half box of tobacco, and two barrels of the <HI REND="italics">youngest</HI>
150.sgm: whiskey I had ever tasted.  The counter was the head of an empty barrel, set off with a broken tumbler, tin cup, and a junk bottle of the ardent.  Scales and weights were not much then in use, and John's store had none.  A drink was paid for by his taking a <HI REND="italics">pinch</HI>
150.sgm: of gold dust with his thumb and fore-finger from the miner's bag, or sorting out a lump the size and value of a dollar, according to Jewish ideas of such things.  Before taking the pinch from the bag, John's finger and thumb could be seen sliding down his throat (as far as the balance of the hand would permit) for the purpose of covering them with saliva, to make the gold stick, and he then thrust it into the miner's <HI REND="italics">pile</HI>
150.sgm:.  The amount of such a pinch was from four to eight dollars! `` <HI REND="italics">Gott und Himmel</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CALIFORNIA A FAST COUNTRY.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>There is a <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: mode of doing business in California, which had to be adopted, to keep up with the times.  As an illustration of the <HI REND="italics">short talk</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Captain</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Gent</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Captain</HI>
150.sgm: --How far to Stockton? How deep and wide is the <HI REND="italics">creek?</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Gent</HI>
150.sgm: --Three miles; twenty feet by seventy yards; twenty-two dollars, and rising; the dog <HI REND="italics">ain't</HI>
150.sgm: mine, and the gun <HI REND="italics">ain't</HI>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>Business is often transacted to the amount of thousands of dollars by merchants and traders, in just about the same short-handed manner of conversation.  We are a <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: people.  If an incendiary sets fire to one of our <HI REND="italics">fast-built</HI>
150.sgm: cities, containing fifteen or twenty thousand inhabitants, and burns it up in a <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: manner, we go to work and rebuild it in fifteen or twenty days, in a superior style; an undertaking that may appear to the balance of <HI REND="italics">slow</HI>
150.sgm: creation as a <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: job, <HI REND="italics">fastly</HI>
150.sgm: done, by a d--d <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: people.  If a <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: rain fall and raise the gold-sand rivers so <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: as to wash away the dams and other improvements built on them by our <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: working miners, they are again rebuilt in a firmer and <HI REND="italics">faster</HI>
150.sgm: manner than before.  Our farmers raise crops of grain and vegetables <HI REND="italics">faster</HI>
150.sgm:, which they sell <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm:, at <HI REND="italics">faster</HI>
150.sgm: rates than any portion of the <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: world we live in.  We now have <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: steamboats, <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: horses, <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: express lines, and some of the <HI REND="italics">fastest</HI>
150.sgm: `` <HI REND="italics">hombres</HI>
150.sgm: '' that can be met with; and in fact it requires a <HI REND="italics">faster</HI>
150.sgm: pen than mine to detail the <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: way in which fortunes are made here.  We have seen, for the last four years, people coming into the country <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm:; and for a time they went out of it <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm:.  But now there are so many who like the <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: place, that they have determined to remain <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: in it for life.  If an <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
150.sgm: gets tired of his <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: life, just let him steal something, and he can get a free passage out of this <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm: world on the California Lynch &amp; Co.'s <HI REND="italics">fast</HI>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE FIRST LEGISLATURE.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>San Jos&acute;e was a wicked place during the winter of 1849 and '50.  It was not only wicked on account of the unrestrained use of wine, women and gaming, but then there was so many little comical plans at work all the time, to worm the cash out of the dear unsuspecting people for the officers in power.  On my arrival in the capitol there appeared to be a thick whispering in the air, a f&oelig;tid smell perceptible, and when the breeze would stir the polluted atmosphere, broken sentences were to be heard, such as--``Ten thousand dollars for _______.''  ``Eight thousand for _______.''  ``Seven thousand for _______ _______,'' and ``Five hundred to each _______.''  ``Twenty-two dollars and four bits, at least, per day--ha, ha, ha,'' and other chopped-off sentences, apparently coming from a bacchanalian feast, would intrude themselves upon the ear; such as ``gentlemen of the ( <HI REND="italics">hic</HI>
150.sgm: ) third house, I rise to ( <HI REND="italics">hic, hic</HI>
150.sgm:,)--point of order.''  ``pass another basket of the anchor brand,'' ``how much, sir, do you suppose it will cost to get that measure through?'' ``We won't go home till morning, till day light does appear.''  Such mysterious sounds must have a source, at least so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:thought the writer, and as the State House was the most likely place to learn public and secret things, thither I went.  When I entered the hall of the second house of our first honorable Legislature, who do you think I saw there, in all majestic pomposity? Why gentle reader the devil! yes, Belzebub himself.  The secret was out, the mysterious whispers in the air were explained--I knew it was he from his personal appearance--and the company he kept.  He was seated at the opposite end of the hall to that of the Speaker; in the centre of his dear children, the sweet babes of the third House.  There was nothing unusual in his appearance except his coat and nose; in the description of which the reader may see his lordship as plain as I did.  His coat was of fustian, fashioned <HI REND="italics">&agrave; la</HI>
150.sgm:<P>This being a new feature in legislation to any I had read of, or seen, I was curious to know how it worked, and so sat and witnessed the proceedings for a time.  It was evident that the honorable members had to make a raise to pay themselves and all the officials, as long bills for board and liquor were daily being presented.  The Treasurer had ``nary dime'' to pay out, and the question first to be discussed was a financial one.  Money-lenders were plenty, and the good people of California could have borrowed half a million at ten per cent per month, payable in ten years.  This offer was made to the honorable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:body in open session, but as soon as it was brought up for consideration, I saw the use the long nose was put to.  To have accepted this offer would have greased the wheels of government in too plain a manner, and would have allowed the people to have kept the machine moving too glibly and would not have allowed the babes of his Satanic majesty a chance to speculate in scrip, so the gentle shake of the golden snout quieted the clamor, and from the pocket of his lordship's old coat came forth a more savory and convenient plan in the shape of a bundle of pretty papers that only bore thirty-six per cent. interest, and could be redeemed at <HI REND="italics">any time</HI>
150.sgm:<P>When the bill to issue scrip came up, one hard-fisted member had the audacity to rise, and ask Mr. Speaker if that ``are warn't a little agin the Constitution.''  The words were hardly out of him, before the long nose was tickling his cheek; the specimens rattled, and bags o' dust slid up and down before his delighted eyes to such a degree, that he settled back in his seat.  The idea of the State making so much money in one day, so tickled the honorable members, that the bill to issue State <HI REND="italics">shin plasters</HI>
150.sgm: went through both houses, snapping and cracking like a burning hemlock plank.  These papers passed for a few days at <HI REND="italics">par</HI>
150.sgm:, then fell a `` <HI REND="italics">leetle</HI>
150.sgm: --'' just twenty-five per cent;--only to try the thing.  Members and feeders out of the crib began to wear long faces at this state of things; but <HI REND="italics">Nosey</HI>
150.sgm: soon showed them by figures that to raise their pay a few dimes, it would make the sum of difference come out just even.  And it was a wonder to see with what grace his Satanic Majesty handed out the fee and salary bills form his great coat pocket, in which the members were allowed the modest sum of <HI REND="italics">twenty-two and a half dollars per diem</HI>
150.sgm:! Those bills passed, which was another great blessing to the dear people, which the shin-plaster system brought about.  Having seen the legislative elephant sufficiently, and was about leaving, I saw Mr. Devil hunting up the ``Foreign Miners' Tax'' bill, and I hurried off to say a few <HI REND="italics">Ave Marias</HI>
150.sgm:<P>When the elders of the people gathered together again in 1850, behold! Satan went also and took his seat amongst them.  His great golden nose had its old influence, and the specimens and bags o' dust did marvellously work upon it.  When he saw the effects his proboscis had in certain water lot and usury bills, he became proud of heart, and desired to try his old offer of broad lands to make them fall down and worship him.  We read in the Good Book of his Satanic Majesty offering our Saviour all the kingdoms of the earth, if he would fall down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:and worship him; but His Honor failed in the speculation.  Not so with his California undertaking; he told the great wise heads that San Jos&acute;e was too mean a place for such devout servants to stay in; and he took many of them up into a high mountain, even into a high peak of the coast range, and showed unto them all his dominions round about.  Some looked with longing eyes to the land of the mountain king--even to Monterey.  But he said unto them, ``Go not there, my children, for honey and wine are scarce in that land, and the frail daughters of Eve dwell not there.''  Being sorely tempted, they looked on the great valley where they had dwelt, even the valley of Santa Clara, and appeared loth to leave it.  In those days there dwelt in the land of Sonoma a goodly man, whose name was Vallejo--a man devout and just, and one who feared God and served the Israelites--and the devil tempted him.  Being sorely pressed by the evil one, he was tempted to scatter many pieces of gold, even half a million of <HI REND="italics">pesos</HI>
150.sgm:, amongst the wild oats that grew upon the mountains, where the elders of the land could go and gather them.  And the devil showed them this goodly place, near unto the great waters, in the land of Vallejo, where the gold was sowed, and where the elders who followed saw it.  They all fell down and worshipped him, saying, ``Oh, good and just devil, thou hast ever been near unto us in the hour of our need, thy glorious snout hath ever directed our paths aright; and now thou hast shown us a goodly land, and we will go and dwell therein.''  And behold! when the summer came, to say the month of June, they moved the high priest of the people, and his household, with the tables of stone whereon the laws were written, and the great ark wherein the treasures of the people were wont to be kept, from the palaces in the great valley of Santa Clara unto the bleak hills that the elders had chosen, and did there pitch tents wherein they might dwell, for the <HI REND="italics">Temple</HI>
150.sgm:<P>When the elders were again to assemble in '51, the devil was sorely pressed for a place for their gathering; but he gathered them together in our great city, to which the merchants of the earth are wont to bring their merchandise, even the city of San Francisco, and there chartered one of the fiery vessels that go into the seas, the ark <HI REND="italics">Empire</HI>
150.sgm:, to ferry them across to the land chosen for them.  This land was not pleasant to look upon, and the elders pressed the devil hard to remove them, who listened to their grievings, and determined to take them unto a kindly place, where all their heads should become <HI REND="italics">dead ones</HI>
150.sgm:.  And the place of his choice was the great city of Sacramento.  The ark <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Empire</HI>
150.sgm:<P>In that goodly city to which they went, the rains fell and the floods arose, but they heeded it not, for the devil was with them, with his nose as bright and long as ever it was, and there he could be seen hauling from his pocket bills for the sale of all the lands that a kind high priest had given unto the little children for an inheritance forever.  Cooley bills, and bills for a tax on labor, are also held within his bird-like, sinewy hands.  And so bold has he become, that he has even dared to meddle with the free press of our people, and comes to take his seat, with his pockets filled with printers' type, which he offers to set up for the benefit of all whom it may concern.  Oh that our elders would learn to fear the devil.</P>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A TRIAL.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>We might here notice what effect legal proceedings had on a California jury previous to the institution of our present courts.  Being in San Jos&acute;e in the winter of 1849, while the first Legislature was in session at that place, a suit was being tried before the Judge of the First Instance.  The point at issue being the title to a lot of land in the town of San Jos&acute;e, for which both the plaintiff and the defendant held <HI REND="italics">Alcaldes</HI>
150.sgm: ' deeds.  The dust being a little more plentiful then than it is at present, the litigants had each armed himself with a <HI REND="italics">limb</HI>
150.sgm: of the law.  It was soon made known amongst the ``great unwashed'' that two ``rale lawyers were gwoine to plead,'' and a general rush took place for the court house.  To give the general reader an idea of the whole affair, it is necessary to describe the Judge and Jury.  The Judge like a majority of the judges in California at that day, was a firm, honest, and just man, with good common ``hoss sense,'' but possessing very faint ideas of law, or the many little technicalities attending thereon.  The jury composed of twelve honest men, presented rather a rough appearance, for so honorable a body.  Eight out of the twelve had their waist adorned with California <HI REND="italics">jewelry</HI>
150.sgm:, in the shape of six shooters and Bowie knives; the other four being Spaniards, had the top of their leggins beautified with the protruding silver handles of the never absent boot knife.  From the unusually healthy appearance of some of their countenances, it was quite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:evident that they had been in attendance on one of the <HI REND="italics">wakes</HI>
150.sgm: nightly held during that winter of magnificent drinks in the third House of the Legislature.  The two legal gentlemen, who had attracted the attention of the ``unwashed,'' were duly in attendance.  One armed, simply with a volume of the Holy Scriptures, while his opponent came with a perfect load of volumes on Law, which was the most attractive feature in the whole proceedings, as the astute gentleman piled up the volumes before him on the table, until it appeared as if he had the whole Congressional Library to draw from, and some of that <HI REND="italics">vile</HI>
150.sgm: auditory went even so far as to ``larf.''  One of the old ones, whose buckskin suit and unshaved and unshorn appearance proclaimed him to be one of the old trappers before mentioned, became indignant at such displays, and informed the crowd that, ``that war too bad for honest citizens to stand for; boys, I'ev been tellin' on you, what this 'ere country would be comin' to afore along.''  A kind of ``that ar a fact,'' approbation was given to this opinion; quiet was restored, and the trial proceeded.  Numerous witnesses were examined in the case, <HI REND="italics">pro</HI>
150.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">con</HI>
150.sgm:<P>The examination of the witnesses being closed, the attorney for the plaintiff was about to commence his argument before the jury, when two or three of those honorable gentlemen had to beg leave to go out a moment--and nearly all of them had the same occasion to leave.  I did not see any of them drink ardent spirits, but they all went into a place where it was mixed and sold at that time.  The jury being again seated, the legal gentleman opened his case in quite an elegant style, which was listened to with ``hang mouth'' attention; he turned to the jury; and to soft soap that body in particular, commenced by saying: ``Gentlemen of the jury, I can't say that you are, physically speaking, handsome men, [a laugh, in which the court joined,] but I do say that I feel assured, from your sun-burnt brows and toil-worn hands, that you constitute as honest and upright a body of men as ever sat on a jury.''</P>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Juror</HI>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>The legal gentleman had all that rough assemblage on his side up to this point; but as he had never seen the elephant, he commenced to overhaul the numerous volumes of law that lay piled up in front of him, and after opening them at numerous marked places, he turned to the jury, and commenced by saying: ``Now, gentlemen, I will read to you all the law bearing on this case.''  But alas! Othello's occupation was gone.  At the mention of <HI REND="italics">law</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Juror</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Juror 2d</HI>
150.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Juror 3d</HI>
150.sgm:<P>The legal gentleman appeared to be ``set back over a feet,'' and commenced a stirring appeal to the court for protection.  The court, not being posted up in such matters, squirmed and twisted about, similar to an eel in a frying-pan.  The judge lit his pipe, wiped his spectacles, and gracefully informed the jury that they must submit to hear the reading of all the law necessary in the case.  The laws in reference to the case, from different commentaries, were then read to a perfectly inattentive and disgusted jury.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The attorney employed by the defendant then arose.  He had seen the Texas <HI REND="italics">elephant</HI>
150.sgm:, and knew well the course he had to pursue.  He told the jury that he had a better knowledge of the state of California, than to think for a moment that such a thing as laws of any kind existed, with the exception of the accursed laws of Mexico, which he knew no true American would submit to.  After a short but patriotic speech and eloquent address, he submitted the case to the jury, amidst a thunder of applause.  The jury soon returned a verdict for defendant.  The defendant was a white man, the plaintiff a <HI REND="italics">greaser</HI>
150.sgm:<P>The plaintiff and defendant had then plenty of money, and in 1851 the case was still before the Supreme court.  I saw the defendant, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TULARE VALLEY.</HEAD>
150.sgm:<P>In the many histories and sketches which have been written on California, not one of them has given to the public any authentic account or satisfactory description of this vast body of valuable land, which has laid for ages the home of the wild beasts of the field, where they have roamed in wild liberty over its vast and fertile bosom unchecked by the hand of man.  The writer does not undertake this task for any other purpose than to give to the world a true and correct history of this valley, which remains a hidden mystery to even nine-tenths of the inhabitants of California at the present day.</P>
150.sgm:<P>In extent this valley reaches from the head of Suisun Bay to Walker's pass, within one hundred and twenty miles of Los Angeles, being a distance of near three hundred miles in length.  It is bounded west by the Coast range of mountains, and on the east by the Sierra Nevada, and its average width is about sixty miles--measuring from the foot of the low hills on each side.  The Moquelumne river may be said to be the dividing line between the Tulare and the Sacramento Valleys.  This vast plain, containing 20,000 square miles of tillable land, and watered by many rivers, and beautified by lakes, is as yet an almost unknown portion of our State, as regards its value to the agriculturist and miner.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Its climate is, as Col. Fremont remarks, like that of Italy, although the middays of summer are, in many portions of it--especially the lower part of the valley--oppressively hot; yet the evenings and nights are deliciously cool and refreshing.  From above the mouth of the Merced to the head of the valley, a cool breeze blows from the northwest from 10 o'clock, A. M., until 10 P. M., which keeps the air perfectly pure and refreshing throughout the summer months.  In winter, a perfect spring may be said to exist, as the centre of the valley is never covered with frost or snow, except an unusual hard winter prevails.  Owing to the height of the upper part of the valley above the level of the sea, it makes the most delightful and salubrious portions of California, and where man has but to dwell for a season; and he becomes enraptured with its loveliness.</P>
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150.sgm:<P>SOIL.--The traveller crossing this valley, or traversing it in any direction during the dry season, would judge from its parched appearance, where it is not watered by the rivers, that it is a barren waste, unfit for any purposes of man.  This was the opinion I formed of it on my first visit.  Being a practical farmer, I had a curiosity to examine the soil and the inducements offered by the general aspect of the country to agricultural pursuits.  The lower part of the valley consists of a deep, rich, sandy loam, intermixed with strata of decayed vegetable matter, the whole resting on a bed of gravel or sand.  The depth of this soil varies from one to six feet, the deeper portions being nearest the centre of the valley.  The vicinity of the Tule Lake, and the large body of land lying between the lake and the San Joaquin river consists of a light loam, intermixed with different species of clay.  There is no portion of this valley, from the head of Tule Lake to Suisun Bay, that is not all that the agriculturist can desire, when aided by means of irrigation.  From the head of the Tule Lake to the vicinity of Kern River and Buena Vista Lake, a distance of seventy-five miles, the valley may be pronounced a barren desert, with the exception of a strip of some ten miles in width, bordering on the slough of Buena Vista Lake.  Around this lake and Kern river, the soil again assumes a rich, sandy loam.  This barren portion of the valley is composed of red clay, interspersed with different mineral substances, and so undermined by gophers and kangaroo rats, as to be in many places impassable by man or beast, even in the dry season.  No live thing is to be seen upon its dreary bosom, either animal or vegetable, with the exception above mentioned.</P>
150.sgm:<P>In the dry season, there is not one drop of water to be found within the boundaries of its parched bosom.  This relates to the valley only; in the coast range, and Sierra Nevada bordering on it, are to be found beautiful vallies, well timbered and watered.  These vallies are formed by the long spurs making out from the mountains; and many of them offer every inducement to settlers, owing to their rich soil and unequalled climate.</P>
150.sgm:<P>RIVERS.--On the western side of the valley, from Suisun Bay to the head of these plains, there is not one stream to be met with.  During the rainy season, there are several small creeks running from the Coast range into the valley, none of which contain water only during the continuation of the rains.  On the eastern side, in going south from the Moquelumne, the first stream met with is the Calaveras.  This stream, taking its rise but a short distance in the Sierra <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>The Stanislaus is a river of some note; taking its head far in the Sierra Nevada, it continues a large, deep, and rapid river from the first of December until the first of July, being fed by the rains during the winter and the melting snows during the beginning of the dry season.  This river could be made navigable for vessels of light draught, for twenty-five miles from its junction with the San Joaquin.  During the dry seasons, its waters are sufficient to irrigate the entire plain lying between it and the Calaveras.  The modes of irrigation from these rivers will be noticed in their proper place.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The Tuolumne is nearly the same size of the Stanislaus, and could be made navigable for nearly the same distance.  It empties into the San Joaquin some ten miles above the mouth of the Stanislaus.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The Merced is a much larger stream than any yet mentioned, and could be made navigable to near the foot of the mountains during the season of high water.  It empties into the San Joaquin some twenty-five miles above the Tuolumne.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The Mariposa, Cowchilla, and Fresno rivers may be classed with the Calaveras, being running streams during the rainy season and spring only.  These streams do not enter directly into the San Joaquin, but their united waters form the immense tule marsh between the bend of the San Joaquin and the mouth of the Merced; the water thus collected enters into the San Joaquin at many different points during high water.  The Mariposa being celebrated for the rich mineral lands it drains, is formed by the union of Fremont's, Agua Frio creeks and their tributaries.  After it enters the plains some five miles, it forks, and the water thus divided, continues its course towards the marsh, but the waters of them sink to such a degree, that the branches can be stepped across where they enter the tule marsh.</P>
150.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<P>The San Joaquin is the next and last river that runs from the Sierra Nevada directly to the sea in this valley, and forms the main channel that drains the lakes and carries off the waters of all the rivers before mentioned.  All the rivers that run into the Tulare valley, having their heads in the Sierra Nevada, run into the plain, where they run nearly due west to the San Joaquin and the lakes.  The San Joaquin is, with but one exception, the largest of these rivers.  Where it leaves the mountain, it runs westward for upwards of forty miles from the low hills to the middle of the plains, where it suddenly bends to the N. N. W., and continues its course to Suisun bay.  At its bend it is joined by the lake slough, which conveys into it the spare waters from the lakes in the plains above.  The San Joaquin for size and commercial purposes, may be rated as the third river on the western coast of America.  By an outlay of some few thousand dollars in improving its navigation, by the removal of points in the short bends and sand bars formed by them, vessels drawing two feet water could navigate it to within twenty miles of the point where it leaves the Sierra Nevada, during the year, a distance by river of near four hundred miles.  Vessels drawing from four to five feet water, can run up as far as the mouth of the lake slough during seven months in the year.  As yet no inducements are offered to steamers to navigate the San Joaquin higher than Stockton, although they have been up as far as Graysonville; schooners and brigs have also been up to this point.  The writer has twice navigated this river, and once sounded it from Bonsell's Ferry to the rapids at the foot of the mountains, and in regard to its capabilities for navigation, speaks from experience; but the obstructions above named must be removed to make it navigable as far as stated.  The current of the San Joaquin is about two and one-half miles per hour, from its junction with the lake slough to where it meets the influence of the tides.</P>
150.sgm:<P>King's river is nearly as large as the San Joaquin.  It is navigable to the mountains, but its length from the low hills to where it enters the Tulare lake, is only about forty miles.  It empties through several mouths into the north-east corner of the Tulare lake, and is a beautiful and picturesque river.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The Four Creeks are the next waters met with.  These deep and rapid streams are formed by one river.  Lieut G. H. Derby of the U.S. Topographical Engineers, who made the first surveys of this portion of California, in May, 1850, named this Francis River.  It is larger than the San Joaquin or any of its tributaries where it leaves the mountain.</P>
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150.sgm:<P>This stream can be heard when you have gone a few miles in among the Buttes at its entrance on the plain, thundering from the rocky heights of the snow capped Nevada.  Its waters, as if tired of their task, seem to stop to rest in a beautiful small lake, formed amongst the conical hills.</P>
150.sgm:<P>These hills divide the waters of Francis River at the foot of the Lake into the four streams known to the traveller on the plains as the Four Creeks.  These Creeks meander thro' a heavily timbered and beautiful country, some twenty-five miles, where they empty their waters into the Tule Lake.</P>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>As we look on this--the garden of California--the pride of an American heart makes our mind to people it with the hardy farmers of this country.  We can imagine their neat cottages peeping out from amidst fields of flowing grain.  We can see the neat village with its church spires, marking the march of civilization--and hear the lowing herds that browse on the luxuriant grass around.  But those fancy pencilings of the mind are put to flight, as our eyes fall on the scene at our feet.  Here, at the foot of the mound on which we have been viewing the scene, the grass has been trampled down--the smoke of immense fires has scarce died away; the scene tells you that a large encampment has just left.  Yes, it is the late camp of the Indian Commissioners.  Those fires were their council fires, where they have been making treaties with the wild beasts of the field in human shape.  Stand on the borders of this camp! a long line of ashes marks the place where once stood the buildings erected at an immense expense by the United States! there, too, almost within it, are twelve hillocks of fresh earth--they are the graves of twelve of our murdered country-men! Here, over these smoking ruins--here, over the graves of our murdered companions, have the soft hands of the Commissioner grasped in friendship those of the incendiary, and the murderers of our people.  And here these good Commissioners signed away to the <HI REND="italics">Digger Indian</HI>
150.sgm: all the right of the white man to the best portion of this desirable spot.  Can these treaties stand? Will the settlers of California submit to it? No.  Look among the graves there; one looks greener than the rest; it is poor old Wood's grave.  He was my old companion; we together explored the plains around, where the foot of the white man had never trod before.  He was the first settler on the Four Creeks.  He now sleeps there, murdered by the Indians, who, instead of being punished, have been pampered, fed and enriched, by the <HI REND="italics">Christian</HI>
150.sgm:<P>The next stream above the Four Creeks is Tule River, which is the last that enters directly into the lake.  This river is near the size <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>From Moore's Creek to Kern River, a distance by a direct course up the plain of seventy-five miles, there is but one small stream running through into the plains, which is called Cottonwood Creek, in Lieut.  Derby's survey.  This stream ceases to run in July, but the thirsty traveller can find water in any place in the low hills at any time of the year, by sinking holes a few feet in its sandy bottom.  This creek is about half way between Moore's Creek and Kern River; the waters of this and Moore's Creek, after forming a lagoon in the plains, find their way to the lake through a slough.  A short distance from where the slough of Buena Vista Lake enters it, Kern River is the most southerly river of the Tulare Valley; it is a fine stream, and nearly as large as the San Joaquin.  After running a short distance into the plain, it branches out, and a large portion of it runs nearly northwest into the Lake slough; the balance of its waters are discharged into Buena Vista Lake.  The whole or part of the waters of this river could, if necessary, be led along the foot of the low hills as far as Moore's Creek, from which the plains now parched up could be irrigated.  This, like the other rivers, is well timbered, and the land in its vicinity is of the most fertile quality.</P>
150.sgm:<P>LAKES.--There are now but two lakes in the Tulare Valley of any note--the Tulare and Buena Vista.  In Col. Fremont's survey, the Tulare Lake is laid down as being double the size that it is at the present day; in 1842, when his survey was made, the body of water he has laid down did exist, but was two distinct lakes, divided by a high, narrow ridge of land, and only connected by a slough.  These lakes were known to settlers, and priests of the missions of California; the lower one as <HI REND="italics">attach&acute;e</HI>
150.sgm:, and the upper one as non- <HI REND="italics">attach&acute;e</HI>
150.sgm: lake.  The <HI REND="italics">attach&acute;e</HI>
150.sgm: only now exists, and is known as the Tulare Lake.  It is about fifty miles in length by thirty in width; its length and breadth can be used for the purpose of navigation; its waters are now eight feet lower than they were ten years ago, and they continue yearly to decrease.  It is fed by King's River, Four Creeks, Tule <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:River, and the sloughs draining the upper waters of the valley.  The banks of the non- <HI REND="italics">attach&acute;e</HI>
150.sgm:<P>The slough from Buena Vista Lake passes through its old bed, and during the season of high water there are large lagoons formed in many places along in the bounds of the old lake.  Buena Vista Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, twenty miles long, and from five to ten in width; it lays nestled in the head of the valley, and is fed by Kern River, and several small creeks which empty into it.  The Sierra Nevada and Coast range of mountains here unite, and form the head of the valley.  The neighborhood of Kern River and Buena Vista Lake is such that the inducements offered to the settler will soon people it.  The Cajon pass from Los Angeles, the Panoche Pass from San Luis, and the celebrated Walker's Pass from the east, all come in here, in the vicinity of Buena Vista Lake.   Colonel Fremont, in giving his opinion to a committee of gentlemen who had under consideration the great Whitney project of a railroad to the Pacific, informed them that Walker's pass was the only practicable point for a railroad to be constructed through the mountains.  Owing to Col. Fremont's thorough knowledge of the topography of these mountains, his statements can be relied upon; and if the iron horse ever snuffs the balmy air of California, it will be, as he imagines, from the hills at Buena Vista Lake.  But more of this anon.</P>
150.sgm:<P>LAKE SLOUGHS--The slough that conveys the water from Tulare Lake into the San Joaquin, is, during the high water, sufficiently deep to float vessels of the largest class.  Its length, from its entrance into the San Joaquin to the edge of the tule beds of the lake, is about thirty-five miles.  Many are under the impression that this slough runs directly into the Tulare Lake, and forms a navigable chain between the two.  This is not so.  The depth of the slough is sufficient for any class vessel, but it is so crooked that it is difficult to sail through it in a small boat; but the great preventative to its navigation is, that it does not run into the lake.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The tules at the lower end of the lake are some fifteen miles in width; the water of the lake oozes out through this for miles, and then, owing to the height of the lake above the slough, the water begins to gather into small sloughs; and these, running to a common centre, form near the other edge of the tules the lake slough.  Where the slough leaves the tules, there is a fall of near five feet, and the water runs rapidly for the distance of nearly a mile.  The writer made three attempts to enter the lake in a whale boat, but did not succeed in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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150.sgm:<P>Lieut. Hamilton, of the U.S. army, entered the lake from King's River in a boat, and carefully examined the lower part of it, but could not discover the least sign of any outlet.  During high water, there is a slough which makes out of King's River, and running along the edge of the tules of the lake, enters the lake slough near its head.  This slough could be navigated by small boats for about two months in the year.  The public may rest assured that there is no direct outlet to the Tulare Lake, through which a boat can pass.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The slough connecting the Tulare and Buena Vista Lakes is about eighty miles in length, and is navigable for small boats during the greater part of the year.  This slough passes through the bed of non- <HI REND="italics">attach&acute;e</HI>
150.sgm:<P>AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES.--In giving to the public a description of the Tulare Valley and its resources, I am guided by personal observation, aided by the opinions of geologists, farmers, planters, cultivators of the vine and tea tree, with whom I have had intercourse and consultation on the value of California as an agricultural country; or to what purposes its rich lands could be converted from the stillness in which they have lain through ages past, and made to swell our commerce and trade, and enrich our people.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Six years ago, the only knowledge that the world at large had of California, was by the topographical survey of Col. Fremont, whose report started to our shores some of the hardy pioneers of the western States.  The accounts given by our naval officers, with but few exceptions, presented it as a barren country, unfit for anything but grazing purposes; yet all united in praise of its unequalled climate.  The gold discoveries following the news of peace with Mexico, and the acquisition of California by the United States, had a tendency to retard the development of its agricultural resources for several years; but now its value as such is just being appreciated.  Many now find <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:that the potato and onion <HI REND="italics">diggins</HI>
150.sgm:<P>There is not one foot of California, (the Sierra Nevada and gold region excepted,) on which wheat, barley and oats cannot be raised to any extent desired.  In the old States, as the farmer sows his seed, doubts cross his mind as to whether he will ever reap as much in quantity as he sows; twenty-five fold is the greatest yield he can expect, and that on his best land, and all depending on the season.</P>
150.sgm:<P>But here the farmer can start at the mountain top and sow down to the depths of the valley, and <HI REND="italics">know</HI>
150.sgm: that the yield will be at least seventy-five fold.  It is no rare occurrence here to reap from a hundred to a hundred and twenty-five <HI REND="italics">fanegas</HI>
150.sgm:<P>I saw, in 1850, a crop of barley, raised on the Tulare Plains, equal to any I <HI REND="italics">ever</HI>
150.sgm:<P>For the cultivation of corn and vegetables, irrigation becomes necessary; and for this purpose the great Unseen Hand has provided the waters that, with but a small exertion of the hand of man, will spread to any point he may desire.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The tule marshes, about which much has been written, invite the planter to convert them into rice fields; they can be drained or flooded at pleasure for that purpose.  Along the rivers and in the drained tule beds, hemp, flax and tobacco can be raised to an extent and perfection that would stand unparalleled.  A gentleman from the southern states informed me that he had closely examined the soil of the Tulare Valley, and that from his observations, he felt assured that cotton and the sugar cane could be brought to high perfection any place within the plain.</P>
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150.sgm:<P>For the cultivation of the grape, California will contend with sunny France or Italy; and the whole of this valley could be made one vast vineyard and orchard.</P>
150.sgm:<P>We have amongst us several thousand of the inhabitants of China; a great many of them are intelligent men, from whom much reliable information can be obtained in regard to the introduction of the tea plant into California, and the value of our tule lands for the cultivation of rice.  I have been assured by some of them that every inducement is offered for the introduction and cultivation of tea in California.  These emigrants are, as a class, the best people we have amongst us--they are sober, quiet, industrious and inoffensive.  It is a rare occurrence that they appear in our courts, engaged in suits of any kind; and never under criminal charges, has one of them been tried, or one act of dishonesty detected amongst them.  Those of them who understand the civil institutions of the United States, adore them; and on our festive days or days of celebrations of our public achievements, the China men can be seen in great numbers in the ranks of our processions dressed in the grotesque costume of their country.  Thousands of these men are ready to become citizens of the U. S., settle down, and turn our waste lands into beautiful fields, as soon as proper inducements and protection is afforded them; and no better class of men could be chosen to develop the agricultural resources of the Tulare Valley than the Chinese who are amongst us.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Tobacco and flax now grow in a wild state on the middle portions of the Tulare plains, and acres of it may be seen in different places around the lakes, and between the Tulare Lake and the San Joaquin.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The lands lying along the different rivers of the plains, are the most desirable of any in the valley; they can be successfully cultivated in any species of vegetation desired, without the aid of irrigation.  Farms running two miles into the plains from these rivers, would be the most valuable of any in California.  The soil is rich and deep, and the bottoms are heavily timbered with oak of the best quality, and sufficient for all purposes of fencing, etc.  In cultivating the lands on the east side of the valley, between the rivers, an apparent obstacle may arise from the want of timber.  This scarcity can be easily remedied, from the inexhaustible supplies of the finest timber from the adjacent Sierra Nevada mountain, not only for agricultural purposes, but for plank or railroads.  If a railroad is ever constructed from the Mississippi to the Pacific ocean, it is most probable its course will be down the Tulare Valley, as Walker's Pass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:offers the only practicable point at which it can pass the mountain barriers that gird the Pacific coast.  Every material for the construction of a railroad along the foot of the Sierra Nevada, is at hand the entire length of the Tulare Valley.  It is but folly to doubt for a moment, in this fast age we live in, that a railroad will, at some early day, be constructed from the Atlantic States to California, connecting with an iron belt the two extremities of our Union.  It is but for the American people to say it <HI REND="italics">shall be</HI>
150.sgm:, and presto, 'tis done.--Things go too slow now between the two oceans to satisfy our fast propensities, and without some <HI REND="italics">geni</HI>
150.sgm: of the universal Yankee tribe should invent an a&euml;rial road, and some fine day come scanning it through the air, the railroad <HI REND="italics">will be built</HI>
150.sgm:<P>The greatest difficulty under which the farmer labors in California is the want of timber; but this is a small obstacle when surmounted by the introduction of wire fencing, which is as durable and efficient as that of wood.  The rich lands that have been so successfully cultivated in the vicinity of the Mission of San Jos&acute;e for the last two years, are at least twenty miles from any timber; but the deficiency is chiefly supplied by the wire fence.  These fences can be put up at a less expense than those of timber, and are fully efficient in protecting crops against the depredations of stock.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Owing to the want of proper grasses ever being introduced on the tulare plains, it becomes bare during the dry season, with the exception of those parts watered by the rivers.  On the lower side of the Stanislaus River, opposite Mr. Belcher's ranch, a few Mormon families commenced a settlement in '47; they introduced the red top grass which is known as herd grass.  This grass is the best that farmers can sow in the Tulare valley; it forms a thick, substantial sod on marsh lands, and grows luxuriantly on high and dry places; it affords excellent pasturage during the year, and hay made from it equals the best cured clover hay.  It can now be seen where it has spread from the Stanislaus to the French Camp above Stockton.  The writer procured from this grass about a pint of seed in 1849, and scattered it in the bend of the San Joaquin where the earth was naked.  It is now spread for five or six miles around, thickly covering the earth and affording the best of pasturage or land for cutting hay from.  This grass is no doubt the best that can be introduced on the plains.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Through the barren portion of the plain between Moore's creek and Kern river, there is a belt of land along the Buena Vista Lake Slough, about fifteen miles in width, which could, by introducing on it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>I would respectfully invite from our cities and towns the gentlemen organ grinders, cappers for gambling tables, runners for steamboats and hotels, vendors of pies and parched corn, pickpockets, and wharf loafers, who are now a nuisance to our communities, to take a walk into the country and look at the rich lands that invite them to honest labor and wealth.  If you can make nothing by mining, the farmer wants your services, for which he will pay you well.  California is no place for you to follow your old callings; it won't pay.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The Tulare Valley is celebrated for being the most healthy portion of California.  The only place that is subject to disease of any kind, is in the neighborhood of the Tulare Lake, where the ague is prevalent at certain seasons of the year.  Not only in the valley, but in the mineral regions bordering on it, prevailing diseases of no kind have as yet made their appearance.  The prevailing north-west winds during the summer months, and the unparalleled purity of the air during the winter in this region, warrants health, the greatest wealth man can possess.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The many inducements offered the agriculturist in this valley, and the many large and fruitful valleys adjoining it, on the Coast range of mountains, must soon people it with a farming community.  The rivers are highways to market for all the produce raised in this section of country, and Stockton a market house for its reception.  Every river of any note in these plains offers the best sites for mills or factories in California, as any water power desired can be obtained on them.</P>
150.sgm:<P>MINERAL RESOURCES.--The mineral resources of the Tulare Plains, of themselves, is no doubt of but small importance; but the surrounding mountains are loaded with mineral riches, which are here included in the wealth and resources of these plains.  All that portion of the gold region from Rio Seco south, is included in what is known as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>There has been but little mining done south of the San Joaquin; but it is not because gold is not to be found there, both in placer diggings and quartz veins, that the progress of the miner south has been prevented.  The gold deposits between the Mariposa and Kern Rivers are to be found far in the Sierra Nevada.  The numerous veins of quartz bear to the south, and can be traced as far as man can get to the east in the Sierra Nevada.  The writer has found gold on King's River, Tule River, and on a branch of Kern River, all of these places being far in the east.  The mountains at the head of the valley become low, and can be passed with pack mules to the east, at almost any point at the head of the Tulare valley.  Walker's pass, however, is no doubt the best.  The most correct map of the mountains of this as yet almost unknown region of California, is the one made by the Jesuit priest, in 1775.  A copy of these surveys, with an accompanying journal, is now in the possession of Dr. A. Randall, of Monterey, a gentleman celebrated for his scientific acquirements, who is about to have the map and journal published.  From this map, it appears that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>Owing to the numerous tribes of hostile Indians, and the remote situation from supplies, of the region south of the San Joaquin, but little has been done in mining operations, or any explorations of consequence made; and there is no doubt, from the appearance of this region of California, that gold deposits of unequalled richness yet lay untouched.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Silver, iron, and cinnabar are also found in this region.  In exploring in the neighborhood of Moore's creek, the writer, in company with others, found a shaft, partly filled up, that had been sunk apparently twelve or fifteen years ago; a part of the windlass apparatus was still standing, but in an advanced stage of decay.  This shaft can be seen at the foot of one of the spurs of the Sierra Nevada, near Moore's creek, and about five miles from the edge of the plains.  On inquiring of an Indian who had been at work there, he at once informed us that long ago some white men and Spaniards had been there, but they all died.  This party were no doubt all murdered by the Indians.  On mentioning this circumstance to Dr. A. S. Wright, a scientific gentleman for many years connected with many of the silver mines in Mexico, he informed me that from the description given, it was no doubt the same place worked by a company of explorers who were fitted out and sent from Mexico to California, some twelve years ago.  He then informed me that in the archives at the city of Mexico, there was on record a letter from a Jesuit priest, dated at one of the missions in 1776, informing the government that in the search amongst the mountains for sites for missions, they had discovered silver in pure masses that weighed several tons; but to prevent a sable mining population from emigrating to California and destroying the prospects of the missions, they had prohibited the Indians and others who accompanied them, on pain of excommunication and death, from disclosing where these deposits were.  The knowledge of this record induced Mr. Wright and others of his associate miners in Mexico to fit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>The Coast range is known to be rich in silver and cinnabar deposits, but owing to the superior inducements offered in the gold regions, there is but little doing in them; but a broad hand points to a day not distant when the earth along these ranges will be disembowelled by the miner, and their now hidden riches be brought to light, to swell our wealth, and fill to fullness the channels of commerce.  I feel that I have but given an ungarnished, incomplete outline of the agricultural and mineral resources of the Tulare valley; but it is to be hoped that a geological survey of the State may soon be made, and those resources of it given authentically to the world.  In the mean time, let writers remember that if they say anything against the resources of our State, they may rest assured they but expose their ignorance.</P>
150.sgm:<P>WILD HORSES AND MODES OF CATCHING THEM.--Of all the dumb creatures that have been created for the use of man, the horse stands the most noble and useful.  To see the horse in all his beauty, you must view him as he prances on the wide and wild plains of his nativity, unbridled or unchecked by the hand of man.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The Tulare Valley, perhaps, contains a larger portion of wild horses than any other part of the world of the same extent.  On the western side of San Joaquin, they are to be seen in bands of from two hundred to two thousand.  These bands are to be met with at intervals from Mount Diablo to the Tulare Lake.  The traveller, in going from the mouth of the lake slough to the head of the lake--four days travel can see the plains covered with these fine animals as far as the eye can reach, in every direction.  There are but few horses on the eastern side of the plains, with the exception of that portion lying between the San Joaquin and King's Rivers, and running down to the lake slough, where there are a great number yearly taken in this range by the Spaniards at the point called Puente de San Juan.  These animals are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>The wild horse of the Tulares ranks amongst the finest of his species.  He, unlike the common mustang to be found in southern portions of America, is of fine size, unparalleled proportions, and as fleet as the wild winds he breathes.  They are of every color, from a glossy black to pure white.  When these animals are caught, they are soon tamed, and can endure any amount of hardship without any other sustenance than the pasturage that the country affords.  The Spaniards frequently travel on one of them from seventy-five to one hundred miles per day.  For endurance of fatigue on pasturage alone as subsistence, the horses of California have no equals.  The writer, in 1847, took two horses from the U. S. caballada at Monterey, (from the pasture) and rode them, alternately, on an express, one hundred and forty miles in ten hours and forty minutes, a feat that the officers who were in Gov. Mason's staff at the time, well remember.  The same horses were in use the following day, with no appearance of stiffness or marks of fatigue.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Amongst the wild horses on the Tulares, many are to be seen with the brands of the missions and ranches on them; and to what age these animals will remain serviceable, or how long they live, cannot be ascertained, as no notice has been taken of their longevity; owing to their spirit and breed, the word ``old horse'' is scarcely ever applied to one of them, although many are known to be over twenty years of age.</P>
150.sgm:<P>Amongst the animals that have escaped from their captors, and are enjoying sweet liberty on the rude and grassy plains of the Tulares, is the famous horse ``Sacramento,'' raised by Capt. Sutter.  This horse has been frequently seen by Spaniards, (who know him well,) while running horses on the plains.  As Sacramento's history is a singular one, I must be allowed to disgress until I give a brief sketch of it.  He was raised by Capt. Sutter, on the Sacramento, is a fine, large iron grey, and fate apparently destined him to figure in our history.  He was presented to Col. Fremont by Capt. Sutter, as a part of his fitout, on his return to the United States, after his first tour of exploration to California; he was the pride of that expedition; he was taken to Kentucky, where he was a universal favorite and pet, and being a stranger, from California, he was also looked upon as a curiosity; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>The greatest number of horses are taken by making strong corrals, and running the bands into them.  The hunters first ascertain the range of a band, and then select a suitable place to build their corral, which is done by making a pen of heavy timber, to which is left a narrow opening.  On the outside, leading from the gate, are built wings which gradually widen out for a long distance.  When this is completed the band are surrounded by the hunters and driven in, where they are lassoed and tied together.</P>
150.sgm:<P>But there are great numbers taken with the lasso.  For catching horses in this way, the best and most fleet horses that the rancheros possess are selected, and are not used for several months before the running season, which is usually in the months of May and June.  They then go into the plains in the vicinity of the most numerous bands, and make their encampment and corral.  When they get prepared for running the bands, a scene of wild and glorious excitement commences, which must be seen to be appreciated.</P>
150.sgm:<P>There are no people in the world that can surpass the Californians in horsemanship.  In the use of the lasso--that indispensable appendage to a Californian's outfit--their dexterity cannot be excelled.  They will catch an animal while at full run, around the neck or by either foot they may desire.  The unerring precision with which they throw the lasso is only attained by long practice.  In catching wild horses, the runners usually number from ten to fifteen.  In preparing for the chase they put nothing on the horses they ride with the exception of a light bridle or halter, and a strong belt around the body of the horse, to which the end of the lasso is fastened.  As soon as the band of wild <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>As soon as the animal caught has been choked down by the tightning noose, which is usually but a few moments, the horseman dismounts and shifts his bridle and girth to the captured horse, and mounts him and teaches him to be the servant of man from the hour of his capture.</P>
150.sgm:<P>The increase of the wild horses of this country is very slow.  Besides the large numbers which are annually captured, there are bands of wolves and coyotes continually hanging round the horses, feeding on the helpless colts, few of which escape until they become large enough to protect themselves.</P>
150.sgm:<P>ANIMALS AND GAME.--Every beast and bird of the chase and hunt is to be found in abundance on the Tulares.  Horses, cattle, elk, antelope, black tail and red deer, grizzly and brown bear, black and grey wolves, coyotes, ocelots, California lions, wildcats, beaver, otter, mink, weasels, ferrets, hare, rabbits, grey and red foxes, grey and ground squirrels, kangaroo rats, badgers, skunks, muskrats, hedgehogs, and many species of small animals not here mentioned; swan, geese, brant, and over twenty different descriptions of ducks also cover the plains and waters in countless myriads from the first of October until the first of April, besides millions of grocus<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
150.sgm:, (sand hill crane,) plover, snipe, and quail.  The rivers are filled with fish of the largest and most delicious varieties, and the sportsman and epicurean can find on the Tulares everything their hearts can desire.  Parties of gentlemen from our cities, who wish to leave for a time the confines <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Grus Canadiensis.</NOTE>
150.sgm:<P>MEANS OF IRRIGATION.--The foundation and waters for irrigating the Tulare valley have been furnished by the all-wise Creator, that man in due time might apply them to fertilize with moisture the rich earth that is not blessed with the ``rains of Heaven in seed-time, and in the time of the ripening fruit.''  The plains have a gradual descent from Buena Vista lake to the bay, and from the foot of the mountains on each side to its centre.  To irrigate the eastern portion, it is but necessary to construct dams at the foot of the low hills on the different rivers, and lead the water through channels to any portion of the plain desired.  The fall of the land is sufficient for this purpose, and not so great as to cause a waste at the sides of drains, by a too rapid descent.  The land is superior in quality, and better adapted to the purpose of irrigation from the rivers than the Salt Lake valley, where the Mormons have so successfully converted the waste and parched wilderness, by irrigation, into fruitful fields.  The land lying between Tule and King's rivers can be cultivated in any way desired, without the means of irrigation; although the means are at hand, if required, from the Four Creeks or either of the rivers.  Between King's River and the San Joaquin the land is now watered by the numerous sloughs which make out from these rivers, and meander in every direction through the plain between them, during high water, which is in June, and a part of July,--the very season when their fertilizing influences are required.  All the rivers of the plain can be divided into as many different channels as may become necessary for the purpose of watering the spaces between the upper streams, by diverting the water out of them at the foot of the low hills.  It cannot be expected that the State, or General Government will ever construct means of irrigation for any portion of California; and it must necessarily be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
150.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
150.sgm:<P>The descriptions of the Tulare Valley that have been given in these letters to the <HI REND="italics">Republican</HI>
150.sgm:<P>Will this valley ever be settled?  Will the bare places be made green with fruitful fields, through which the diverted crystal waters will be seen winding their fertilizing course?  Will the hum of the flouring mill and the factory's roar, ever waken from the sleep of ages the stillness that has ever reigned along her mighty rivers?  Will the whistle of the fire-horse, as he comes thundering on his iron way, ever startle from their coverts the wild deer and elk?  The answer is yes! and that, too, at no distant day.  The unmeasured strides to greatness that California has been and is now taking, warrant the assertion.  The thousands of the young and hearty sons of toil whom we see around us that have come to make this their homes, tell in thunder tones that with the blessings of God, that here nothing is impossible--that here, under the blessings of our glorious, free and republican government, there has been a new era commenced in the world's history, so great that the civilized world looks on in wonder.  Let not the wheels of government become foul and fall in our way, or obstruct the paths in which we are now treading, and ``the wilderness shall blossom as the rose,'' our mighty mountains tunneled, our thousand rivers confined to their beds, and California become the seat of commerce, wealth and art,--THE BRIGHT GEM OF THE WESTERN SEAS.</P>
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152.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-152</TITLE>
152.sgm:<TITLE>California gold; an authentic history of the first find, with the names of those interested in the discovery; published by the author, James S. Brown, Salt Lake City, Utah. Oakland Cal., Pacific press publishing company, 1894: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
152.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
152.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
152.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
152.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
152.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
152.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
152.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
152.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>34-2731</LCCN>
152.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
152.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
152.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<DIV><P>VOL. 48<HSEP>NO. 3<LB>THE</P>
152.sgm:<P>MAGAZINE OF HISTORY</P>
152.sgm:<P>WITH</P>
152.sgm:<P>NOTES AND QUERIES</P>
152.sgm:<P>Extra Number 191</P>
152.sgm:<P>COMPRISING<LB>CALIFORNIA GOLD--AN AUTHENTIC HISTORY OF THE FIRST FIND,<LB>WITH THE NAMES OF THOSE INTERESTED IN THE DISCOVERY<LB><HSEP><HI REND="italics">James S. Brown (1894)</HI>
152.sgm:<LB>CALIFORNIA IN 1849<HSEP><HI REND="italics">C.F. Hotchkiss</HI>
152.sgm:<P>New York, N.Y.<LB>REPRINTED<LB>WILLIAM ABBATT<LB>1933</P>
152.sgm:<P>BEING EXTRA NUMBER 191 OF THE MAGAZINE OF HISTORY WITH NOTES AND QUERIES.</P>
152.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EDITOR'S PREFACE</HEAD>
152.sgm:<P>THIS is an excessively rare item of its kind, and of vital importance, being the only printed relation -- aside from that by Marshall himself -- by an eye-witness of an participant in the gold discovery.  But two copies recorded as sold at auction.</P>
152.sgm:<P> The Bigler letter is important as the only other such kept by any other member of the little company of workers at the Sutter Mill.</P>
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152.sgm:<DIV><P>CALIFORNIA GOLD</P>
152.sgm:<P>AN</P>
152.sgm:<P>AUTHENTIC HISTORY</P>
152.sgm:<P>OF THE</P>
152.sgm:<P>FIRST FIND</P>
152.sgm:<P>With the Names of Those Interested in the Discovery</P>
152.sgm:<P>Published by the Author</P>
152.sgm:<P>JAMES S. BROWN</P>
152.sgm:<P>SALT LAKE CITY UTAH</P>
152.sgm:<P>OAKLAND, CAL.</P>
152.sgm:<P>PACIFIC PRESS PUBLISHING COMPANY.</P>
152.sgm:<P>1894.</P>
152.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>BUT FOUR OF THEM LEFT<LB><HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
152.sgm:, Nov. 26, 1897<LB>COMPANIONS OF MARSHALL WHEN HE DISCOVERED GOLD<LB>Three of These Aged Pioneers Live In Utah and May Attend the<LB>Golden Jubilee</HEAD>
152.sgm:<P>San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
152.sgm:<P>Some time ago Mr. Hittell, pioneer, author and historian, wrote to Mr. Bigler in an endeavor to ascertain the whereabouts and condition of health of his companions.  The following answer, written in a hand that portrayed the writer's age and feeble condition, shortly arrived:</P>
152.sgm:<P>``St. George, Utah, Oct. 9, 1897.<LB>``Dear Mr. Hittell.--Yours of the 3rd inst. to hand, in which I learn that the society of California Pioneers is considering the project of celebrating, the 24th of January next, the semi-centennial of the discovery of gold at Coloma.</P>
152.sgm:<P>``You wish me to give you a list of the survivors, with their precise names, postoffice address and any information I have in regard to their health and strength.</P>
152.sgm:<P>``James S. Brown.  I met him at our great Jubilee in Salt Lake City last July.  He was in his usual health, quite lively and talkative as ever.  His address is 31 North First West street, Salt Lake City, Utah.</P>
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152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<P>``Azariah Smith a few years ago was living in Manti, Sanpete county, Utah.  I have not heard of his death, nor of his leaving that place.  At last accounts his health was pretty good, though he was at time afflicted with fits.</P>
152.sgm:<P>``William J. Johnston.  His address at last accounts was Ramah, Valencia county, New Mexico.  His health was good then.</P>
152.sgm:<P>``My comrades who were with Marshall at the time he found the gold at Coloma are all dead, so far as I know, except myself and the names I have just mentioned.  My health is pretty good for a person of my age, as I am in my 83d year.</P>
152.sgm:<P>``My appetite is good, and people say I hold my age splendidly, and my walk is brisk, though I have to use a cane to steady myself, as I am so light-headed and liable to fall.  I am pleased to hear of the move about to be made to celebrate the 24th of January, 1848, and hope you will have a nice time, and it would please me to witness and to be a partaker in the grand festivity on that occasion.</P>
152.sgm:<P>``Any information I may have that you would like to know you only have to write and it will be a pleasing task for me to give it if I can. Respectfully yours,    <HSEP>HENRY W. BIGLER.''</P>
152.sgm:<P>The pioneers are confident that all will accept the invitation, and they look forward for a jolly reunion on their part.<LB>SALT LAKE CITY, Utah, Jan. 24, 1894.</P>
152.sgm:<P>Just forty-six (46) years ago to-day the great and memorable discovery of the California gold was made at Capt. John A. Sutter and James W. Marshall's sawmill, on American Fork River, California.</P>
152.sgm:<P>Now to give a clear conception of that most notable event, we must go back to the time when the project of building the mill was first conceived by Messrs. Sutter and Marshall, which was on or near the 1st of June, 1847.  But, for want of skilled labor, the matter was delayed for a time, as the class of white men that was to be hired could not be trusted so as to justify a man in the undertaking of an enterprise of such importance as building a gristmill, which he already had under contemplation, and a sawmill forty miles away, in an Indian country; and again, the unsettled condition of the country as it was, so soon after the war, and considering the scarcity of money, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<P>I understood then that in two or three days he decided to construct the two mills above mentioned, for the greatest obstacle that confronted him had been removed by the propositions that our committee had made to him.  I have not heard the foregoing statement denied, therefore it is confirmed in my mind that had it not been for this opportunity the sawmill at least would not have been built, nor the discovery of gold been made at that time.  The State of California would have waited indefinitely to have been developed and to be christened the ``Golden State,'' and the entrance to San Francisco Bay might never have received the title of the ``Golden Gate.''</P>
152.sgm:<P>Quite a number, say from forty to sixty of us, called on Mr. Sutter between August 29th and September 5th.  Some were employed to work on the gristmill, others took contracts on the mill race of that mill, the race was seven or eight miles long and was also designed for irrigation.</P>
152.sgm:<P>Alexander Stephens, Henry W. Bigler, James Berger, William Johnson, Azariah Smith, James S. Brown, and Israel Evans, were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<P>It must have been between the 8th and 11th when we came up to the party who had already commenced the erection of a rough cabin, half a mile from the spot or site that Marshall had selected some time before for the mill.</P>
152.sgm:<P>Now the work commenced in earnest; the cabin was pushed, and a second room put on in true frontier style.  Some finished up the cabin, others worked at getting out timbers and preparing for the erection of the mill.  The site chosen for the mill was at a point where the river made considerable of a bend, and just in the bank of what appeared to be the old bed of the river, which was lowered to carry the water from the mill.</P>
152.sgm:<P>Sometime between the 15th and 20th of January the mill was started up, and it was found that it had been set too low and the race would not carry off the water, but that it would drown or kill the flutter wheel.  To avoid this difficulty several new pieces of timber had to be got out, and as there was found suitable timber within ten or fifteen rods from where the tail race entered the river, all hands were set to work getting out the timber at that place.</P>
152.sgm:<P>It had been customary to hoist the gates of the force bay when we quit work in the evening, letting the water through the race to wash away the loosened sand and gravel, then close them down early in the morning, and a gang of Digger Indians had been employed to dig and cast out the cable rock, such as was not moved by the water.</P>
152.sgm:<P>I, having picked up sufficient of the Indian dialect to direct the Indians in that labor, was set to look after that work, and as all hands were getting out timber so near the race, I had stepped away from them and was with the white men when Mr. Marshall came down to look after the work in general.  Having talked a few moments, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
152.sgm:<P>I, being an all-around worker, sometimes called from one thing to another, and the Indians did not require my whole attention, Mr. Marshall called me to come to him.  I went, and found him examining the bed rock.  He said, ``This is a curious rock, I am afraid that it will give us trouble,'' and as he probed it a little further, he said, ``I believe that it contains minerals of some kind, and I believe that there is gold in these hills.'' Said I to him, ``What makes you think so?'' He said he had seen the blossom of gold, and I asked what that was, and he told me that it was the white quartz scattered over the hills.  I, being no better informed, asked what quartz was.  He answered that it was the white flint-like rock that was so plentiful on the hills.  I told him that it was flint rock, but he said no, that it was called quartz in some book that he had read, and that it was an indication of gold.  He then sent me to the cabin to bring a pan so that we could wash some of the sand and gravel to see what we could find.  (It is well to say here that Alexander Stephens, H. W. Bigler, James Berger, Azariah Smith, W. Johnson and the writer had built a cabin near the site of the mill and were doing our own cooking, and it was to this cabin I was sent.)  On my return we washed some of the sand and gravel and also some of the bed rock that we scaled up with a pick.  As we had no idea of the appearance of gold in its natural state, our search was unsuccessful.  Then he said, ``Well, we will hoist the gates and turn in all the water that we can to-night, and tomorrow morning we will shut it off and come down here, and I believe we will find gold or some kind of mineral here.''</P>
152.sgm:<P>As he was rather a notional kind of man, I had but little thought of what he said; do not think I even mentioned it to the other men.  We each went our way and did not see each other till the next morning.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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152.sgm:<P>Nothing but a smile of derision stole over the faces of the parties present.  We ate our breakfast and went to work.  James Berger and myself went to the whipsaw, and the rest of the men some eight or ten rods off from the mill.  I was close to the mill and saw pit, but was also close to the tail race where I could direct the Indians that were there.  This was January 24, 1848.</P>
152.sgm:<P>Just when we had got partly to work, here came Mr. Marshall with his old wool hat in hand, and stopped within six or eight yards of the saw pit, and exclaimed, ``Boys, I have got her now.'' I, being the nearest to him, and having more curiosity than the rest of the men, jumped from the pit and stepped to him, and on looking in his hat discovered say ten or twelve pieces of small scales of what proved to be gold.  I picked up the largest piece, worth about fifty cents, and tested it with my teeth, and as it did not give, I held it aloft and exclaimed, ``gold, boys, gold!'' At that they all dropped their tools and gathered around Mr. Marshall.  Now, having made the first test and proclamation of that very important fact, I stepped to the workbench and put it to the second with the hammer.  While doing that it occurred to me that while in the Mormon Battalion in Mexico, we came to some timber called manzanita.  Our guides and interpreters said that wood was what the Mexicans smelted their gold and silver ores with.  It is a hard wood and makes a very hot fire and also lasts a long time.  Remembering that we had left a very hot bed of these coals in the fireplace of the cabin, I hurried off and made the third test by placing it upon the point of an old shovel blade, and then inserted it in among the coals, and blew the coals until I was blind for the moment, in trying to burn or melt the particles; and although it was plated almost as thin as a sheet of note paper, the heat did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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152.sgm:<P>At this juncture all was excitement, and all repaired to the lower end of the tail race, where we found from three to six inches of water flowing over the bed of rock, in which there were crevices and little pockets, over which the water rippled in the glare of the sunlight as it shone over the mountain peaks.  James Berger was the first man to spy a scale of the metal.  He stooped to pick it up, but found some difficulty in getting hold of it as his fingers would blur the water, though he finally succeeded.  The next man to find a piece was H. W. Bigler; he used his jackknife, getting it on the point of the blade, then, getting his forefinger over it, placed it in his left hand.  And as we soon learned how to look for it, as it glittered under the water and in the rays of the sun, we were all rewarded with a few scales.  Each put his mite into a small vial that was provided by Marshall, and we made him the custodian.  We repeated our visits for three or four mornings to the tail race, each time collecting some more of the precious metal, until we had gathered somewhere between three and four ounces.</P>
152.sgm:<P>The next move was to step and stake off two quarter sections beginning at the mill, one running down the river and the other up.  Then we cut and hauled logs and laid the foundation of a cabin on each of them; one was for Sutter, the other for Marshall.  Now, this matter being finished, Mr. Marshall was prepared to dictate terms to us, for every tool and all the provisions in that part of the country belonged to Capt. Sutter and Mr. Marshall, and they had full control, and we were depending on the completion of the mill for our pay.  He said if we would stay by him until the mill was completed and well stocked with logs, he would supply us with provisions and tools and the first right to work on their gold claims.</P>
152.sgm:<P>So we all agreed to his proposition, and also that we would not disclose our secret of the gold discovery until we learned more about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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152.sgm:<P>There came a rainy day, and it was too wet to work; H. W. Bigler thought it a good day to hunt ducks, so he got on an old coat, and was gone all day.  When he returned, we said, ``Where are your ducks?'' He said, ``Wait awhile, I will show you; I have got them all right.''  Finally he drew an old cotton handkerchief from his pocket, in a corner of which he had at least half an ounce of gold tied up.  For a while all were excited, and he was asked a great many questions like the following: ``Did you find it on Sutter's claim along the river?'' ``How far is it from here?'' ``All in one place?'' ``Is there any more?'' ``How did you get it, you had no pick nor shovel?'' ``Can you find the place again?'' He said that he had found it down below Sutter's claim, along the river where the bed rock crops out along the bank, and in little rills that come down the hills to the river, and everywhere that he found the bed rock cropping out.  ``Then you found it in more than one place?''--``Yes, more than a dozen.''  It was now proposed that we keep this discovery a secret, as the discovery in the race had been kept.  So the mill work was pushed with vigor to completion.  But in the meantime Marshall felt it had become his duty to inform his partner of the discovery.  Accordingly he wrote a letter stating the facts, and sent me out to find a strange Indian that would take it to Capt. Sutter, fearing that if he sent it by someone that was acquainted with the facts, the secret might leak out.  Just about this time W. Johnson found that he had some urgent business below and he must go, and he did; he went to the gristmill and along the camps on that mill race.  And somehow or other the bag came untied and our old cat and all the kittens ran out, and to the camps they went, until everybody heard them.  But, like all great truths, people were slow to believe the story.</P>
152.sgm:<P>However, Sidney Willis and Wilford Hudson began to feel that they would like a little venison, and with that for an excuse took their guns and set out on foot, having been assured that by following up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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152.sgm:<P>As they passed down on their way home they discovered a small ravine or creek in which there was some of the same kind of bed rock that they had seen at the mill race, and by picking around in the sand and gravel they discovered quite a rich prospect that was just opposite what was afterwards called Mormon Island, about twelve or fifteen miles above the gristmill and about the same distance below the sawmill.  Then they returned to the mill and told their story and showed the specimens to the boys.  Then some went to Sutter's Fort, to a little grocery store kept by a Mormon by the name of Smith, that came around by the ship ``Brooklyn.''  The story of the find was told to him and specimens exhibited to him, and he wrote to Saml. Brannan, who was publishing a paper in San Francisco at that time, and from that press the news went forth to the world.  Brannan was a Mormon elder, and the press was owned by a company of Mormons that had come from New York around Cape Horn and were presided over by S. Brannan.</P>
152.sgm:<P>Having explained briefly the find and proclamation, we will return to the mill race, while from 100 to 150 Mormons flocked to Mormon Island, and then people from every part of the States followed, and the search for gold was commenced in earnest.  With jack, butcher, and table knives the search was made in the crevices, after stripping the soil from the bed rock with pick and shovel.  Next, we conceived the idea of washing the sand and small gravel in time pans, but these were scarce and hard to get hold of.  Alexander Stephens dug out a trough, leaving the bottom round like a log.  Filling that with sand and gravel that we scraped off the bed rock, he would shake it, having arranged it so as to pour or run water in on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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152.sgm:<P>The next and last process that we used in gathering was to spread a sheet on the sand beach of the river, placing some big rocks on the corners and sides to keep it well stretched, then fill the rich dirt on the upper edge, then throw water on to wash the dirt down in the river, leaving the gold on the sheet, occasionally taking up the sheet and dipping it in a tub of water, thus washing the gold off the sheet into the tub, and at night clean up our day's work, averaging from $12 to $15 per hand.  Our best paying dirt was carried on our shoulders from Dry Gulch all the way from fifteen to sixty rods, to where we could find water to wash it with.</P>
152.sgm:<P>In the latter part of June, 1848, we left the gold fields of California to meet our fathers, mothers, brothers and sisters, and our dear friends in what was called the Great American Desert, now called Utah Territory.</P>
152.sgm:<P>To Sutter's capital and enterprise and Marshall's shrewd sagacity has been given the credit of the great gold discovery of California.  The facts are that James W. Marshall discovered the first color, and in less than an hour six Mormons found color as well, and in less than six weeks had discovered it in hundreds of places that Mr. Marshall had never seen, the most notable of which was Mormon Island, to where the first rush was made, and from where the news was spread to the uttermost bounds of the everlasting hills and to all the nations of the earth.</P>
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152.sgm:<P>As to Sutter's enterprise and capital, he did furnish the Graham flour and mutton, wheat and peas, black coffee and brown sugar, teams and tools, while we, the members of the Mormon Battalion, did do the hard labor that discovered the metal, and it is also true that we were in Sutter's employ at that date, and that we did not get paid for our labor.</P>
152.sgm:<P>I worked 100 days for the firm, and never received one farthing for it.  I heard a number of other men say that they never got their pay.  Then it was our labor that developed the find, and not theirs, for many of them were never paid; and when we went for a settlement we were told by Capt. Sutter that he could not settle with us for his bookkeeper had gone to the mines and his books were not posted.  He cursed Marshall and the mines, and declared that he was a ruined man, that the discovery was his ruin, for it had drawn off his laborers and left everything to go to rack, and he was being robbed.</P>
152.sgm:<P>I do not wish it to be understood that I charge them with being dishonorable, for I do not, but I charge it to the general confusion of the country.  I think they were honorable men in a business way.  But the facts are they were perfectly overrun with all classes of people, and confused, so that the people took advantage of them, and their business affairs were undermined, and there was a general collapse of every industry and business.  The cry was ``gold! gold! more gold! away for the gold fields!'' Every other enterprise was sacrificed at the sight of gold.</P>
152.sgm:<P>With all due respect to Capt. John A. Sutter and James W. Marshall, to whom the world has given the credit of the great find, I do believe if they had been taken out and shot to death the day of the discovery they would have suffered less, and would have met their Maker just as pure, if not more honored in this world, than to have lived and endured what they did.</P>
152.sgm:<P>As far as I am concerned, I say peace to their remains, for on this earth they have been greatly wronged, if I have read their history correctly.  Like a lynching scrape where there is an outburst of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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152.sgm:<P>The above has been written from memory, as it has been indelibly impressed upon the mind of the writer by the greatness of the results flowing therefrom, and the numerous inquiries that have been made of him, which have been answered by reciting it so repeatedly--if not all at once, it has been at different times--so that after reading and revising it, I can testify from the best of my knowledge, it is strictly correct.</P>
152.sgm:<P>The following are some extracts from letters received, showing the relation of the writer to the gold discovery and incidents of close connection to the history as given in this work:--</P>
152.sgm:<P>ST. GEORGE, Utah,<LB>Dec. 20th, 1885.<LB>DEAR BROTHER JAMES:--I have just received a letter from John S. Hittell, San Francisco, Cal., an entire stranger to me.  He wishes to get all the information he can in relation to the discovery of gold at Sutter &amp; Marshall's sawmill, in 1848, and if any of the mill hands knew of a man by the name of Humphry, who claims to have been the first person who introduced the Rocker there and taught the mill hands how to wash gold.  I have answered his letter, saying there may have been a man there by that name, but as for introducing a Rocker and showing us how to wash the Platter was something I have no knowledge about.  The tin pan was used, and they were scarce.  A wooden tray, made by Alex.  Stephens to knead dough in, was used by me, and as for Rockers, up to the time we left, in '48, there was none that I saw or heard of at Marshall's mill, or anywhere else in Cal.  And again, he says he wants the exact date of the discovery.  I have told him that my journal has the discovery on the afternoon of January 24th, 1848, and he says he has corroborative evidence that such was the fact, instead of the 19th of January, as Marshall has it in his history, and he wishes to establish that fact--that Marshall was mistaken in his date--and Mr. Hittell wants the address of yourself, E. Stephen, and others who may have been present at the sawmill when the precious metal was discovered.  I shall, to-day, write and send him your address, as he wishes to write <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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152.sgm:<P>Yours truly,</P>
152.sgm:<P>HENRY W. BIGLER.</P>
152.sgm:<P>1025 HYDE STREET, SAN FRANCISCO,<LB><HSEP>Dec. 26, 1885.<LB>JAMES S. BROWN,<LB>DEAR SIR:--I mail to you to-day a copy of an address delivered by me before the Pioneer Society, of this city, in reference to the gold discovery.  I have recently heard from Henry W. Bigler that you are living and are in Salt Lake City, and as I am in want of some information, I write to you.</P>
152.sgm:<P>Do you know on what day gold was discovered at Coloma?</P>
152.sgm:<P>Do you know when the first rocker was used in gold mining, at or near Coloma?</P>
152.sgm:<P>Do you know who used it?</P>
152.sgm:<P>Do you know whether anyone at Coloma, except H. W. Bigler, kept a diary about the time of the gold discovery?</P>
152.sgm:<P>What is the post office address of Alexander Stephens?  Could he probably tell me anything more than you can tell me?</P>
152.sgm:<P>Any corrections of my statements in the pamphlet, or remarks upon them, will be welcome.</P>
152.sgm:<P>I inclose an envelope for your reply if you favor me with one.</P>
152.sgm:<P>Yours,JOHN S. HITTELL.</P>
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152.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE WORKS OF<LB>HUBERT HOWE BANCROFT<LB><HSEP>THE HISTORY COMPANY,<LB><HSEP>No. 607 Market Street,<LB><HSEP>N. J. STONE, MANAGER.<LB><HSEP>SAN FRANCISCO, Dec. 20, 1886.<LB>MR. JAMES S. BROWN,<LB><HSEP>Salt Lake City, Utah.</HEAD>
152.sgm:<P>DEAR SIR:--We have received and read with very great interest some notes of yourself given to Mr. L. H. Nichols, and especially that part of your experience in which you tell of the discovery of gold in California.  The information you have given is important.  We are not aware at this moment whether Mr. Bancroft has all his data bearing upon the point that you bring out, or not; we regret that we had not found you out earlier, as to enable us to present your notes to Mr. Bancroft before his text had gone on so far, but even to-day what you contribute to his material on the gold discovery will be of greater or less value, and we shall forward it to his library at once.</P>
152.sgm:<P>You have had a very unusual and evidently a very useful experience, altogether--one that is pleasant to remember, and one in which a man at your time of life can well feel satisfaction.  Your missionary work among the Indians, whose language you seem to have a most remarkable facility for acquiring, is a piece of history itself, and it would seem that with the information about the language, habits, customs, and domestic relations of the number of tribes that you have gone among in the way you have, would make a most interesting volume alone.  We very much appreciate your kindness in giving these items to Mr. Nichols, and you may accept from us the kindest acknowledgment from the author himself.</P>
152.sgm:<P>We are gratified to know that Mr. Nicholas has had a chance to meet you and know you, and we sincerely trust that, as he promises us, you will take hold and assist him in promoting his work among your good people.</P>
152.sgm:<P>We remain, dear sir,</P>
152.sgm:<P>Sincerely yours,</P>
152.sgm:<P>THE HISTORY COMPANY,</P>
152.sgm:<P>D. S. SESSIONS.</P>
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152.sgm:<P>While much more might be said quite as correct, I have deemed this account sufficient for the ordinary inquiring mind, therefore I respectfully submit it to be filed away as a true history, feeling that it is only just to give honor to whom honor is due:--</P>
152.sgm:<P>Signed, JAMES S. BROWN,</P>
152.sgm:<P>31 North, 1st West Street, Salt Lake City, Utah.</P>
152.sgm:<P>We, the undersigned, know the foregoing to be a true and correct statement of the first discovery of gold in California:--</P>
152.sgm:<P>Witnesses,</P>
152.sgm:<P>ORIN HATCH,</P>
152.sgm:<P>Woods Cross, Davis County, Utah.</P>
152.sgm:<P>GEORGE W. BOYD,</P>
152.sgm:<P>Salt Lake City.</P>
152.sgm:<P>H. D. MERRILL,</P>
152.sgm:<P>427 N. 2d W., Salt Lake City.</P>
152.sgm:<P>WILLIAM S. MUIR,</P>
152.sgm:<P>Woods Cross, Davis County, Utah.</P>
152.sgm:<P>ISRAEL EVANS,</P>
152.sgm:<P>Lehi, Utah County, Utah.</P>
153.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-153</TITLE>
153.sgm:<TITLE>California in 1849.  by C. F. Hotchkiss: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
153.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
153.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
153.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
153.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
153.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
153.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
153.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
153.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>34-2732</LCCN>
153.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
153.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
153.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
153.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
153.sgm:<P>VOL. 48<HSEP>NO.3<LB>THE<LB>MAGAZINE OF HISTORY<LB>WITH<LB>NOTES AND QUERIES<LB>Extra Number -- No. 191.</P>
153.sgm:<P>COMPRISING<LB>CALIFORNIA GOLD -- AN AUTHENTIC HISTORY OF THE FIRST FIND, <LB>WITH THE NAMES OF THOSE INTERESTED IN THE DISCOVERY.<LB><HSEP><HI REND="italics">James S. Brown</HI>
153.sgm: (1894)<LB>CALIFORNIA IN 1849<HSEP><HI REND="italics">C. F. Hotchkiss</HI>
153.sgm:<P>NEW YORK, N.Y.<LB>REPRINTED<LB>WILLIAM ABBATT<LB>1933<LB>BEING EXTRA NUMBER 191 OF THE MAGAZINE OF HISTORY WITH NOTES AND QUERIES</P>
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153.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CALIFORNIA IN 1849</HEAD>
153.sgm:<P>Two sons on the way, Dec. 1848--Ship Orpheus--Passage by steamer Crescent City, Sept. 1849--Death and Burial at Sea--Gold the general topic with 500 Passengers--Touched at Havana--Arriva lagres--Miserable Hole--Constant rains and excessive heat--Effects of Gambling--Boatmen and Canoes--Alcalde--Mutiny--Capt. Henry Thompson of East Haven--Good Pluck--At Cruces--Demand for Mules--Advice of an American--My mule Americanus--Dead and balky Mules--Entered the gorge left foot first--Rains and Mud--Beautiful Scenery--Lizards and Snakes--Route for Treasure--Large transfers for ages--Beef by the yard--Sylvester Potter's Horses--Safe arrival at Panama--Affection for Americanus--U.S. Hotel--Scene in Cockpit--Sam's remark on "Consistumcy"--Bound up the Coast--Steamer Panama, Capt. Bailey--Touched at Mazatlan, Acapulco, and San Diego--Arrived at San Francisco--Breakfast on Shore, $3.00--Scene at Happy Valley--Opened business same day--No Vegetables--Scurvy--Bread at the front door free--Large arrivals--Wm. Fuller sick--Arrival of brig Ann Smith, Capt. Bowns--Scenes at Post Office--Gambling Hells--Vigilant Committee--Curtain lifted--No Females--No time to lose--Store corner Sansom and Jackson sts., rent $32,500--Butter $1.00 a pound--Moved to Stockton--Safe Deposit--Vigilant Committee--A Woman arrived--Warned by the Committee to leave--Scaffold and four graves at its foot--Sick-- "Vamoosed the Ranch"--Nice trip down the Coast--Arrived safe at home--Account Current--Pope's Essay on Gold Hunting.</P>
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153.sgm:<P>We touched at Havana, exchanged mails, and in due time arrived at Chagres, a low, miserable town, of thirty thatched huts, and the passengers got on shore as best they could, in miserable shore canoes, under an old roll of the Caribbean Sea, in which several were swamped Chagres at this time was poorly prepared for the immense emigration, and with half the canoes required to transport them up to Crusus.  No eating houses or saloons, in an extremely low latitude, and every one who had not gambled away his money and ticket for up the coast, anxious to get away from the miserable hole.  Our little party of four having had some experience in roughing, concluded a bargain with two brawny natives to pole us through to Crusus, took them before their alcalde (justice), paid the bill, conditioned that they should lose no time on the way, they to feed themselves, four hours per twenty-four given for rest, and forfeit a flogging if they did not perform.  A wise and good arrangement, as it proved, for the rascals mutinied on us the next morning, and refused to go forward unless we gave them food.  We remonstrated, took possession of the craft ourselves, shoved her off shore, held by a pole well down in the mud, and waited events.  Four Yankees, with each a pistol, on even ground, against two natives, stark naked, was considerable odds in our favor, and we intended to keep it. Soon a passing canoe, with a single native, came drifting down, to whom we beckoned.  He was a mongrel, and carried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:<P>On my trip down this river there were perhaps 100 canoes in requisition for passengers, many of whom not desiring to arrive in Chagres before daybreak, hauled up at a village three miles above. We came down late, and lay on the outside the fleet, made fast, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:<P>Crusus is the only place on this river giving evidence of antiquity or civilization; the arrangements for the transportation of treasure over the mountains to Crusus and thence by canoe to ship at Chagres.  Panama has been the receiving warehouse for treasure ages ago, yes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:<P>But let us return to our departure from Crusus to Panama, through the gorges, for the mules are ready, and as a body much resemble the horses that our worthy citizen, "Sylvester," formerly dealt in, "none worth over ten shillings"--one of which I sold as auctioneer in New Haven for seventy-five cents, having advanced the worthy owner two dollars on it the day before.  Sylvester was in the audience; State street was blocked up by the people, and always was at the sale of a horse, whether good, bad, or indifferent.  The creature sold after much effort, for seventy-five cents, amid many cheers and some hisses.  After getting a quiet audience, I said: "Gentlemen, this horse was sold for account of `Sylvester,' under an advance of two dollars; please help me make up the account sales, for it seems to be on the wrong side of Daboll."  One of the audience as suddenly as a clap of thunder, cried out: "Gentlemen, I propose that the auctioneer pay `Sylvester' the seventy-five cents, and guarantee the purchaser that the `old rip' lives till he arrives at his stable, giving him twenty minutes lee way.  Are you ready for the question?  Those in favor will say aye"--when the whole street responded in the affirmative, and your humble servant did as requested, paid the seventy-five cents, and bargained with the purchaser that he should have the animal without pay, if he would get him out of the street in two minutes.  Well, these mules, financially, were like "Sylvester's" horses at New Haven--only that the Crusus mules were immediately absorbed, and it was found that the demand far exceeded the supply.  Current price ten dollars for the ride to Panama--no reclamation on either side if he died on the journey.  Acting on a hint given by a railroad official, then surveying the route for the Panama road, I rested for the crowd to mount, when he turned to a native, told him my wants, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:to bring up his "Americanus," a large, beautiful animal, with a splendid Mexican outrig, for which I gladly paid him fifteen dollars, thanked my friend for his kindness, and after receiving instructions for the mule's care in Panama, I started with perfect assurance of my safety on the trip--I covered the rear of the great cavalcade, passed a dozen mules on the balk, and some floundering in mud holes.  At the entrance of the first gorge in the mountain, about a mile from the hotel, I found several animals that refused to enter, while Americanus stepped square up to the work, entered the gorge <HI REND="italics">en miltair</HI>
153.sgm:<P>I turned to the hotel for my own quarters.  The people continued to arrive till midnight--some on foot, weary, wet, and drunken.  I consider that my investment of fifteen dollars was one of the best I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:he was plump six feet tall, of a sharp visage, dressed in black bombazine mantle, and black chapeau, black silk hose, and tight serge gaiters, and if never active before, was now truly "the biggest toad in the puddle," made the most noise, and swore more than any other man in the party.  The two birds were let into the arena, amid continuous shouts and screams enough to frighten the evil one himself, if not the two roosters.  As before stated, I was intent on the audience not in the pit, until the first slash.  I saw the "dominie" jump into the pit for his bird, but it was too late, his throat was cut clean open,--he looked the picture of despair, took his dead bird and boy and walked away, <HI REND="italics">minus</HI>
153.sgm:<P>The steamer Panama was ready, her passengers got on board as best they could, and we left for San Francisco, or rather, those of us who had not sold or gambled away our money or tickets.  The ship was cleanly and under good discipline and command of Captain Bailey, whose orders were to touch off and on at Mazatlan, at Acapulco for coal, and San Diego for passengers, and then for San Francisco, but to use up twenty-one days on the passage.  Nothing of interest occurred during the passage, and we arrived the twenty-first day, all well.  I landed next morning, foot of Jackson street, and entered an eating room on Montgomery, ordered cup of coffee, two eggs, and beef steak, no butter, paid $2.50, and consoled myself that I had 15,000 pounds of choice butter in the ship Orpheus, which somebody would be obliged to pay one dollar a pound for.  I stepped out on the street--everything was in a crude state; I spent a portion of the day in the examination of San Francisco as it then was.  At Happy Valley I found about 200 people, "squatters," some in tents, some in crockery hogsheads and dry-goods boxes, as their shelter. It was sufficient for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:<P>The miners began to arrive from the mines to recruit.  They had gold and scurvy both--the former worthless, without a potato or an onion. These two articles were the only antidote for their complaint, and it was amusing to see with what avidity they would scrape them with a knife, costing half their weight in gold.  This state of things was soon remedied by the arrival of vessels from Chili; but for six months these articles sold for one dollar the pound.  With onions or potatoes raw, the worst case of scurvy could be cured in ten days.  But I must not give the reader much more of this melancholy picture.</P>
153.sgm:<P>It was calculated that the increase of population in San Francisco was over 1,500 persons average per day from February 1st to June 1st, 1850, and that over 400 vessels of various nations and sizes, in May, were at anchor in the bay, deserted by their crews, but generally with a single ship-keeper on board.  Had there been a sufficiency of lumber and carpenters in the market we could with truth say, "A city could be built in a day."  But trade went on swimmingly, and with good margins.</P>
153.sgm:<P>I was comfortably surprised one morning to welcome my old neighbor, Wm. Fuller, Esq., having arrived from Sacramento to recruit, and bringing me news from my two sons, who were then with his friends on the "American Fork"--and in my little quarters of ten feet square he was made as comfortable in his severe sickness, and during the season of rains, as we could control.  His was chronic diarrh&oelig;a, caused by exposure in the Sacramento salmon fishing.  Friend Fuller will tell you of his narrow escape and suffering, but now hale and hearty, dealing largely piscatorially on Long Wharf, New Haven, Ct.  It was evident that Mr. F. was not improving in health with the crude accommodations under my roof, and the constant chilly rains of the season, and I solicited Captain William Bowns, then lying at anchor in the bay, to take Mr. F. on board his vessel, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:<P>I purchased the cargo of Captain Bowns, and paid the bill in full; never had a dispute with him with regard to reclamations for shorts or damage, but found him to be the same noble-hearted man as in boyhood, a kind, generous play and schoolmate of mine all my younger days, from three years old, and with whom the writer enjoyed many a "piscatorial" excursion in middle life.  All our intercourse at San Francisco was genial, pleasant and friendly, and I challenge the world to find one who more keenly mourned his decease that I did, not excepting his wife.  It is said that "murder will out in time," and this is a good opportunity to prove the application of the old adage.  After the decease of Captain William Bowns, the author was considerably annoyed by reports emanating from one who stood high in the family of the Captain, that "she was made poor by reason of C. F. Hotchkiss having CHEATED the Captain out of the cargo sold him in San Francisco."</P>
153.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Remarks</HI>
153.sgm:.--The only cargo bought by the writer of Captain Bowns was that alluded to above, and for the payment of which I hold a receipt in full, and, furthermore, I respectfully refer my friends or enemies, who swallowed and repeated the unqualified lie to my injury, to Charles Peterson, Esq., President of the New Haven Security Insurance Company, the owner of said vessel and cargo, who will tell you that the good Captain did not own a penny of the cargo, nor did he in the settlement of that voyage report any balance due from your humble servant. My quarters in my little office on Montgomery street were too strait, and I rented a two story building in course of erection, located on the flats, foot of Jackson street, sixty feet square, the lower floor for goods, three doors opening to the sea, a dock on the south side for landing goods and passengers.  The upper story was converted to bunks, three tiers high, making about 100 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:<P>without rum (thank God), was the great thoroughfare for the living and the dead.  It was difficult to tell whether less or more of the sick came from the mines or landed from vessels.  Scurvy from the mines and ship fever from the vessels.</P>
153.sgm:<P>Our only law was a Vigilance Committee--they not considering the dead and dying as coming within their jurisdiction.  Gold, gold, gold, could well be the epitaph of thousands.  Thus far for the dark side, not half told.  The bright side to me was the arrival of my two sons--both sick--but vegetables were getting plenty, and with the care and council of Doctor Beers, formerly of New Haven, Charles, the youngest, recruited sufficiently, and by advice of the doctor was sent home in company with Mr. W. J. Clark, of Southington, who kindly volunteered to care for him. Henry remained with me.</P>
153.sgm:<P>The ship Orpheus arrived safe, and her invoice paid a round margin; butter on its arrival was one dollar per pound.  The busy scenes of life began to tell on me.  Those strong, cold winds of San Francisco were too much, and I heeded the admonition, began to prepare for a removal to Stockton, but before I go let me describe the scenes on the Plaza.  Post office first-- every day a string of people three deep, twenty rods long, waiting a chance at the delivery.  Two days often passed before the party at the rear could get a chance at the window; many times have I seen a line forming in the night, to insure a chance next day; five dollars was often paid for a chance near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:<P>These scenes, mixed with the hundreds in the streets of poor, sickly and emaciated men with scurvy and diarrh&oelig;a, more like moving ghosts, was sufficient to make one cry out, "All for gold."  Yes, all this and more, and yet not a female to be seen, except, perhaps, an occasional Digger squaw.  This was the panorama of the winter of 1850 and spring of '51.  Oh! what degradation for gold!</P>
153.sgm:<P>But let us look around near the corner of the Plaza, where the national colors are flying, and where the Vigilance Committee, in the absence of all statute or territorial law, take in hand the administration of justice, and where it swiftly followed arrests.  Nothing else would seem to answer the purpose, for if they were without organization, our lives would not be worth a brass farthing.  No crowd of anxious information-seekers or curiosity-hunters are ever seen in that room, though the national emblem tails to the breeze night and day.  It is empty now, but perhaps in half an hour a private duplicate key will admit eight men of business with a tyler, but there will be no formal crier to open the court.  The gavel strikes the table, and the prisoner is brought in from a side door, the witnesses confront him;<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:there is no sick juror to wait for, the judges are business men, there are no pettifoggers to worry the judge; time is precious in San Francisco now; men have immense rents to pay; they move quick; there is no superfluity of words; jurors cannot be bribed nor witnesses befogged.  The story is told, and it is told to honest men--men without a salary--men who are sick of the intricacies of law, and men who will administer justice, though the heavens were on fire. "What is your opinion, gentlemen?"  The answer comes by signs.  "The prisoner is guilty."  There is no long roll of talk from the bench, to harrow up the soul of the guilty wretch.  He is told his doom; he is not ( <HI REND="italics">vide</HI>
153.sgm:<P>Now, reader, I have closed my interest at San Francisco, which I found to be a very easy matter.  Newcomers were plenty, and away for Stockton.  The climate and surroundings being much more congenial to my constitution and feelings, but I shall remember the howling morning winds that with a cold, dense fog, roll over the city of San Francisco. The trade of Stockton is mostly with muleteers, who run trains of pack mules with supplies for the miners.</P>
153.sgm:<P>The old steamer <HI REND="italics">Sutter</HI>
153.sgm: made regular trips from San Francisco three times a week; fare twenty-five dollars.  Stockton then had about 1,200 inhabitants, and only one female, except three poor, degraded Digger squaws; with five wood buildings, the other shelter was tents. The wood buildings were occupied for gambling, where "monte" was the favorite fame.  The town was regularly laid out, with a street leading up from the landing seventy feet wide. Goods were generally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:displayed in front of the tent in the street, exposed to view and thieves, during four months of the year, without danger from dews or rains.  Lots then occupied on this street cost 5,000 dollars cash.  The old iron safe, before mentioned, was now in its position, it being but the third in the place.  It was a cheap sheet iron safe, and yet its shape was just suited to not only our wants but also the miners and muleteers, each of whom in coming from the mines would deposit their bag of gold--the former to recruit, and the latter to purchase goods.  We seemed to be the treasury for the whole country, and during the time we were there we never weighed or counted a single bag, and never had a word of difficulty with a depositor.  Not a bag during the time was sealed.  It was marked with the owner's name, and it was no uncommon thing to have on hand 150 bags, valued at from twenty to one thousand dollars each.  We made no charge for deposits, and the acquaintance and reputation in the mines brought a large trade.  The muleteers, with from five to thirty pack mules, would arrive about noon, the head mule rode by the boss, carried the bag or bags of gold on the pommel of the saddle, and if for a large purchase, the assistant on the rear mule carried gold in the same way.  The train would halt at our tent, the principal would take off the gold, lay it in the safe, hand us a list of his wants, to be ready to pack the second day--not a word of price--if the articles were not in the place, we could send by steamer <HI REND="italics">Sutter</HI>
153.sgm:<P>Stockton had its Vigilant Committee, and in the middle of the street on an elevation, say about twenty rods from us, they had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:<P>Woman was a curiosity, as was evidenced one day about 8 o'clock, when a great uproar was made, commencing at the landing, and gaining strength as the sound reached us; every occupant was in the street, the cheer was long, loud, and strong--and behold, it was a woman, backed on a beautiful horse, richly dressed in a long riding habit, a neat jockey cap, white feather, face highly painted, and she escorted by a man well dressed, also on a beautiful bay charger.  The men swung their hats, and it was a universal cheer on cheer.  On the 10th day after her majesty and her pimp went through this great and wonderful ovation, the Vigilant Committee, through their tyler, served a notice on them both to leave by the <HI REND="italics">Sutter</HI>
153.sgm:<P>The climate at Stockton was beautiful.  The plain extended <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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153.sgm:<P>The writer was satisfied that chronic diarrh&oelig;a was no respecter of persons, and if life was worth more than gold, it was time for him to nurse his health, and with his son, Henry, after closing up our business, took steamer for home.  We had a beautiful run down the coast; crossed the Isthmus, joined the steamer for New York, and arrived safe at New Haven, August 7th, 1850, with two good-sized bags of gold, showing a balance against the enterprize of $23,000.</P>
153.sgm:<P>The account stood thus:</P>
153.sgm:<P>To <HSEP>Dr.</P>
153.sgm:<P>Cash outfit to California, including self and two sons <HSEP>$7,000 Wear and tear, body, soul, and breeches <HSEP>10,000</P>
153.sgm:<P>Privations (non-society) <HSEP>5,000</P>
153.sgm:<P>Do., morning winds and fogs in San Francisco <HSEP>2,000</P>
153.sgm:<P>Risk of life in various ways <HSEP>10,000</P>
153.sgm:<P>"Rolling stone" process <HSEP><HI REND="underscore">5,000</HI>
153.sgm:<P>$39,000</P>
153.sgm:<P>Cr.</P>
153.sgm:<P>By two bags gold, containing <HSEP>$16,000</P>
153.sgm:<P>"  balance to new account <HSEP><HI REND="underscore">23,000</HI>
153.sgm:<P>E. E. <HSEP>$39,000</P>
153.sgm:<P>New Haven, August 7th, 1850.<HSEP>C. F. HOTCHKISS.</P>
153.sgm:<P>Pope speaks my sentiment relative to gold-hunting:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"To either India see the merchant fly,<LB>Scar'd at the spectre of pale poverty!<LB>See him, with pains of body, pangs of soul,<LB>Burn through the tropic, freeze beneath the pole!<LB>Wilt thou do nothing for a nobler end,<LB>Nothing, to make philosophy thy friend?<LB>To stop thy foolish views, thy long desires,<LB>And ease thy heart of all that it admires?<LB>Here, wisdom calls: `seek virtue first, be bold!<LB>As gold to silver, virtue is to gold.'"</HI>
155.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-155</TITLE>
155.sgm:<TITLE>A letter from a gold miner, Placerville, California, October, 1850, with an introduction by Robert Glass Cleland: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
155.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
155.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
155.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
155.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
155.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
155.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
155.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
155.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>44-5704</LCCN>
155.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
155.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
155.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:<P>A</P>
155.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Letter from a Gold <LB>Miner</HI>
155.sgm:<P>PLACERVILLE, CALIFORNIA</P>
155.sgm:<P>OCTOBER, 1850</P>
155.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">With an Introduction by</HI>
155.sgm:<P>ROBERT GLASS CLELAND</P>
155.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Marino, California</HI>
155.sgm:<P>FRIENDS OF THE HUNTINGTON LIBRARY</P>
155.sgm:<P>1944</P>
155.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
155.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
155.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This edition consists of 1000 copies<LB>specially printed for the</HI>
155.sgm:<P>FRIENDS OF THE HUNTINGTON LIBRARY</P>
155.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This copy is No.<LB>Anderson &amp; Ritchie: The Ward Ritchie Press<LB>Los Angeles, California</HI>
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155.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Introduction</HI>
155.sgm:<P>A GENERATION rooted and grounded in the classical tradition naturally spoke of the participants in the California Gold Rush as the Argonauts.  The word connoted romance, riches, and adventure.  But, as in innumerable other cases, the reality belied the name.  Aside from their youth, a touch of restlessness, and a certain measure of initiative, most of the California Argonauts of 1849-51 were simply middle-class Americans, typical representatives of the culture, family background, education, and religious training characteristic of that day.</P>
155.sgm:<P>The journey to California, whatever route an emigrant elected to  take, was always an adventure--but an adventure in most instances  characterized infinitely more by monotony, privation, discomfort, and  the tragedy of unromantic disease than by stirring episode, thrilling  excitement, or hairbreadth risk.  Once in California, moreover, most  of the so-called Argonauts underwent a painful disillusionment.  They  discovered that mining was a rough, hard, monotonous job, and that life  in a mining camp, like the work itself, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:<P>Yet, despite all such hardships, limitations, and discouragements, a  vast majority of the artisans, shopkeepers, farmers, and professional  men, so recently transplanted to California from the sheltered life east  of the mountains, retained their optimism, decency, and sense of values.   Equally to their credit, it should be said, these same run-of-the-mill  Americans, even in the absence of all formal government and law, refused  to permit society to disintegrate or capitulate to anarchy, but set up  rules, regulations, and courts of their own to enable men to live and  work together in some degree of peace and order.</P>
155.sgm:<P>The chief value of the manuscript printed below, as a souvenir for  the Friends of the Huntington Library, lies in the fact that, instead of describing some highly colorful or dramatic incident, it simply  represents a typical example of the letters written to the "folks back  home," by the tens of thousands of emigrants who came to California  in the Gold Rush.  In the document one detects the stilted note of  formality, the somewhat florid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
155.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
155.sgm:<P>theological phrases and expressions, so characteristic of the letters of  the time.</P>
155.sgm:<P>Of S. Shufelt, the writer of the letter, we know but little.  His  name appears on the passenger list of the express steamer "Panama,"  sailing from New York for the Isthmus on May 11, 1849.  He refers to  Fulton, Durham, Cairo, and Windham, in New York State, and apparently he  came from the last named town.  He was married and had one child.  As for  the rest, Shufelt's very obscurity makes him all the more typical of that  vast multitude who were caught up in the cyclonic excitement of 1849,  1850, and 1851 and swept across the continent to California.</P>
155.sgm:<P>Shufelt's experiences, as he describes them to his cousin, John,  differed in no respect from those of thousands of his fellow Argonauts.   Delay, disease, deaths on the Isthmus, the tedious, almost interminable  voyage to San Francisco, speedy disruption of the company or association  that had been organized in New York sometime before the group embarked  for California, a measure of success in the mines, the death of friends  and his own serious illness in the mountains, the long, heartbreaking  months that brought no word from wife, child, or other relatives--in  all these matters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:<P>But in addition to the picture he gives of the life and activities  of the average Forty-Niner, Shufelt adds specific bits of information,  such as commodity prices, interest rates, cost of postage, and the  returns from mining operations, that are of very definite value from an  economic and social standpoint.  His descriptions, too, of the various  kinds of apparatus used in mining, and of mining operations themselves;  his contrast between the eastern landscapes and those of California; his  account of scurvy and other typical diseases from which the miners  suffered; and his shrewd observations on the misfortunes most emigrants  were doomed to undergo add materially to the interest and historical  value of Shufelt's letter.  Evidence of deep religious fervor, usually  expressed, as already suggested, in stilted, trite, and artificial  phrases, appears in various places in the manuscript.  In all this, too,  Shufelt was merely following a familiar pattern employed by many of his  fellow Forty-Niners.</P>
155.sgm:<P>One further suggestion may be offered.  Human nature was the same in  1849 as it is in 1943.  The thousands of adventurers who then left wives, children, parents, friends, and familiar surroundings to go to California  waited with the same impatience, anxiety, and longing for word from home  with which the tens of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:<P>ROBERT G. CLELAND</P>
155.sgm:<P>NOTE:  <HI REND="italics">The Shufelt letter was acquired by Mr. Huntington at an  auction in New York in 1924.  So far as is known, it has not hitherto  been published.  In preparing the copy for printing, the author's  irregularities of spelling, capitalization, and punctuation have been  allowed to stand except where clarity demanded  modification</HI>
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155.sgm:<P>A</P>
155.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Letter from a Gold<LB>Miner</HI>
155.sgm:<P>March 3d 1850 Placerville Eldorado co. California</P>
155.sgm:<P>Dear Cousin</P>
155.sgm:<P>Agreeable to my promise &amp; after thus long delaying, I now sit  down to address a few lines to you touching my general health, my success  thus far in our expedition &amp; of California news and prospects  generally.  First, my health has been very good most of the time since  I left home.  I was sea sick a few days after leaving New York but soon  got over this &amp; enjoyed myself very well the rest of the passage to  Chagres, &amp; here I will not weary you with a long description of our  journey across the Isthmus &amp; of our long stay there.  But simply say  that we did not find any of those difficulties &amp; frightful obstacles  that played before the timorous immagination of Stephen H. Branch,  but proceeded up the river in canoes rowed by the natives, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
155.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
155.sgm:enjoyed the scenery &amp; howling of the monkeys &amp; chattering of  Parrots very much.  We pitched our tents at Gorgona &amp; most of our  party stayed there several weeks.  S. Miller &amp; myself went on to  Panama to look out for a chance to get up to San Francisco.  Of our ill  success you have probably been informed &amp; consequently of our long  stay there, &amp; of the deaths in our party.  Yes, here Mr. Crooker, J.  Miller &amp; L. Alden yielded up their breath to God who gave it, &amp;  as I humbly hope &amp; trust their spirits winged a happy flight upward  to that world of bliss &amp; love where sin &amp; sorrow never can come  &amp; where parting is not known.  After many delays &amp; vexations, we  at length took passage on a German ship &amp; set sail again on our  journey to the Eldorado of the west.  We went south nearly to the  Equator, then turned west, the weather was warm, the winds light &amp;  contrary for our course.  Our ship was a slow sailer &amp; consequently  our passage was long &amp; tedious.  Nothing worthy of note occured,  except now &amp; then the spouting of Whales, &amp; occasionally their  broad backs &amp; enormous tails would be seen rolling up from their  watery abodes, &amp; the nimble Porpoises &amp; smooth Sharks &amp;  beautiful Dolphins, were seen playing around our ship &amp; the long  &amp; wearisome days were seemingly shortened by the sport &amp;  excitement of catching them.  Our appetites were sometimes satisfied  by the excellent dish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:that was served up from them.  One of the  sailors fell from the rigging into the water &amp; it was known that he  could not swim, so the excitement was great.  Ropes, planks and every  thing that could be got hold of was thrown to him.  He caught a plank  &amp; got on it, a boat was lowered &amp; soon they had him on board  again.  He was much frightened, but not much hurt.  We had one heavy  squall of wind &amp; rain, that tore the sails &amp; broke some of the  yards in pieces, &amp; gave us a quick step motion to keep upon our feet,  but soon all was right again &amp; we were ploughing through the gentle  Pacific at the rate of ten knots pr hour.  On the 85th day out we hove  in sight of an object that greatly attracted our attention &amp; ere long  the green hills of San Francisco bay began to show their highest points,  &amp; soon we were gliding smoothly along between them, down the bay,  &amp; when the order came to let go anchor, we brought up directly in  front of the City amidst a fleet of vessels, of all kinds &amp; sizes.   One of our party went on shore &amp; obtained some letters for us.  I  received one from my wife &amp; the first word I had received from home  was this.  You can imagine with what anxiety I read it &amp; how pleased  I was to hear that all was well.  The next morning we all went on shore  &amp; glad was all to once more set foot on land &amp; be able to enjoy  the fresh breezes &amp; fresh food &amp; water that it contains.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:The city is built on the side Hill south of the bay &amp; commands a fine  view of the harbor &amp; shipping and the distant hills that surround it  on all sides.  The buildings were mostly of cloth, some small frames were  covered with it, others covered with shingles &amp; boards, &amp; some  few good buildings were up &amp; many more in the course of erection.   The hills in all directions were covered with tents &amp; the streets  crowded with people from all parts of the world anxious to make their  fortunes in a few days in this golden land of promise.  Here our company disbanded, owing to several causes which I will not now stop to mention  &amp; a division was made of all property funds on hand &amp; each man  took his share &amp; went his own way.  I was much opposed to this &amp;  used my best endeavors to keep them together, but was overrulled by the  casting vote of our President H. Taylor of Prattsville.  Mr. J. S.  Cornwall &amp; S. L. Hayes of Cairo were sick at the time &amp; we took  the money that belonged to the shares of those that died in Panama &amp;  took Cornwall to a good hospital &amp; Hayes went with him to take care  of him &amp; for company,not being able to work.  We paid 10 Dollars pr  day for Cornwall &amp; $2 for Hayes.  We left $300 with them &amp; most  of the company gave a joint note for the payment of this to those that  it belongs to.  We staid here about one week, then eight of us left for  Sacramento City <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:enroute for the mines.  Cornwall &amp; Hayes both  Died here, Cornwall of Diahareah &amp; Hayes of Dropsy.  We took passage  on a small schooner, crossed the bay with a gentle breeze &amp; soon were  winding our way up the crooked Sacramento.  We passed the town of Benecia  a pleasant place, also N York on the other side of the Sacramento &amp;  at the mouth of the San Joaquin.  It is destined to be a business place,  &amp; of considerable importance.  We soon entered Soosoon bay &amp; our  Capt. not being acquainted with the channel we ran on the ground at high  tide &amp; a stiff breeze, so that we were fast in reality.  As the tide  fell our little schooner fell also on her side &amp; filled with water.   We clung to the upper side, but were so thick that as night drew on the  Capt. thought some of us had better go on shore.  Some of our party went,  myself among the rest.  We came very near getting swamped on the water,  but nearer, after landing.  For it proved to be a swamp surely, &amp;  the musquitoes gave us battle immediately in such numbers that we were  obliged to give them a fire that subdued all...[FRAGMENT MISSING]...we  laid our frail bodies down to rest, &amp; after a short nap the watch  waked us with the sad news that the tide was rising fast &amp; would  soon overflow our resting place.  Some found their feet asoak, others  their blankets, &amp; all jumped up exclaiming what shall we do, but we  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:managed to keep out of the water by getting on old logs &amp;  bogs until morning, which being Sunday &amp; being obliged to stay there  all day made it one of the most unpleasant Sabbaths that I ever spent.   At night the Capt. sent a boat and took us on board &amp; at high tide  at midnight we succeeded in getting off &amp; after spending one week  &amp; getting fast several times more we at length reached Sacramento  City to the joy of our hearts &amp; the relief of our hands.  We staid  here some week or more viewing the sights &amp; wonders of this City of a  months existence, composed principally of tents &amp; situated on the  east bank of the river, &amp; at the mouth of the American fork, &amp;  is I think destined to be the pleasantest &amp; most business City in  California.  But will have to be levee'd to prevent inundations, as it  has all been overflowed this winter.  We hired an ox team to carry our  baggage &amp; started for this place then called Hangtown, from the fact  that three persons had been hung here for stealing &amp; attempting to  murder.  Ten miles from the river we passed Sutters fort, an old looking  heap of buildings surrounded by an high wall of unburnt brick, &amp;  situated in the midst of a pleasant fertile plain, covered with grass and  a few scattering oaks, with numerous tame cattle &amp; mules.  We walked  by the waggon &amp; at night cooked our suppers, rolled our blankets  around us &amp; lay down to rest on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
155.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
155.sgm:<P>We pitched our tents, shouldered our picks &amp; shovels &amp; with  pan in hand sallied forth to try our fortunes at gold digging.  We did  not have very good success being green at mining, but by practice &amp; observation we soon improved some, &amp; found a little of the shining  metal.  Wm Ramsdell &amp; Cooke of our party were sick with the scurvy  &amp; could not work.  This is the worst disease that we have to contend  with here, it settles in the legs &amp; ancles, making the person quite  lame.  The skin turns purple &amp; if not arrested soon, spots will decay  &amp; fall off leaving a running sore.  It is brought on by eating salt  food &amp; no vegetables.  Some are also troubled with diarreah, others  with ague &amp; fever &amp; various other diseases incident to all new  countries.  It is quite sickly here &amp; every person ought to be very  careful &amp; not expose himself more than is necessary.  Many here are  so anxious to get rich that they work, rain or snow, regardless of life  or health.  After <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
155.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
155.sgm:<P>I am going to give you a long yarn &amp; make you pay double  postage, but never mind it will not cost you half as much as I have to  pay for mine, for I have paid $2.40 for some...[FRAGMENT MISSING]...And  now probably you have read better descriptions of the country, mines,  &amp; the manner of obtaining the gold than I can give, but as many  conflicting accounts have been given, &amp; believing that you will  place some confidence at least in what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
155.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
155.sgm:I write, I will give you  a short description of what I know, have seen &amp; heard from sources of  credit.  First then, the country around the mines, is hilly, mountainous  &amp; barren of vegetation, except trees &amp; these being rooted so deep  do not dry up in summer like all other vegetables, consequently we have  some fine pines, spruce, fir &amp; oaks of smaller size.  The hills  resemble the color of the Windham soil &amp; are high &amp; steep in many  places, &amp; some very deep ravines, in which there has been large  quantities of Gold found.  The rivers appear to a person standing on the  bank almost sunk out of sight, &amp; in places very difficult to descend  &amp; ascend on foot.  Along the banks &amp; in the bed of some of them  very large quantities of Gold have been found &amp; taken out &amp; large quantities still remain for American industry to extract &amp; put in  circulation.  And most of the country around the mines never can be  made productive &amp; consequently never will be worth any thing for  agricultural purposes.  We have the dry season that lasts from six to ten  months without any rain.  The wet commenced about the first of Nov last,  nearly 2 months earlier than usual.  Many had not got their provisions up  from Sacramento City &amp; the roads became very bad.  Hauling was 50  cts per pound with the prospect that soon all transportation would be  impossible, consequently provisions ran up in price to an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
155.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
155.sgm:enormous height.  Flour &amp; pork were $125 pr Bll., lard &amp; Butter  $200 Bll., Cheese $1.50 lb., Dried Apples, $1.50, Saleratus $5.00,  Molasses from $8. to $10.00 pr Gallon &amp; all other things about in  that proportion.  Potatoes &amp; onions were worth $1.25 &amp; $1.50 pr  pound &amp;c.  In Dec. we had a dry spell &amp; then all went to getting  up provisions.  I went down to Sacramento City &amp; found our provisions  had got around but most of them were left down...[FRAGMENT MISSING]... Sacramento City.  Here I learned that Hayes, Cornwall &amp; Wm Ramsdell  had all died.  The latter left the mines on account of the scurvy, &amp;  was taken with the diarreah &amp; bloody flux &amp; died in a short time.   Thus six of our little party have gone to their long home &amp; rendered  up their last account to their maker God, &amp; have received their  sentences of wo, or bliss.  May it have been the latter, is my humble  hope &amp; prayer, &amp; that I may meet them in that world of love &amp;  joy shall be my chief desire &amp; the great object of my life.  I saw Mr  Jones from Durham, at San Francisco.  He was well &amp; doing very well,  &amp; I was told that he was very steady &amp; saved what he earned.  I  staid here about one week &amp; went back to Sacramento &amp; then up  home to the mines, a distance of 50 miles from Sacramento.  I staid a few  days &amp; then went back again.  Sold some more of our provisions, some  were spoilt, some sold low, others high.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
155.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
155.sgm:Our cook stove I sold  for $200.00, butter $1.00 pr lb., Oil $3.00 pr Gallon, Sperm candles  $3.00 pr pound, Pork from 25 to $30 pr Barrell &amp;c.  Here I got our  Mill Irons made, they cost us $800.00.  Our provisions we had to pay 50c  pr lb. for hauling, which brought us in debt about $2,000.  We paid on  $500.00 of it 60 pr cent.  Some here pay 10 per cent pr month for money,  others less, as they can get it.  We have paid nearly all of our debts  &amp; have earned it or dug it out of the creek within a few weeks past.   Now I will give you a short history of the mode of getting it, of where  it is found, &amp; in what quantities so far as my knowledge extends.  It  is found (as I have said) along the banks of the streams &amp; in the  beds of the same, &amp; in almost every little ravine putting into the  streams.  And often from 10 to 50 ft. from the beds up the bank.  We sometimes have to dig several feet deep before we find any, in other places all the dirt &amp; clay will pay to wash, but generally the clay pays best.  If there is no clay, then it is found down on the rock.  All  the lumps are found on the rock--&amp; most of the fine gold.  We tell  when it will pay by trying the dirt with a pan.  This is called  prospecting here.  If it will pay from six to 12 1/2 pr pan full, then  we go to work.  Some wash with cradles some with what is called a tom  &amp; various other fixings.  But I like the tom best of any thing that  I have seen.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:It is a box or trough about 8 or 9 feet long,  some 18 in. wide &amp; from 5 to 6 in. high, with an iron seive in one  end punched with 1/2 in. holes.  Underneath this is placed a ripple or  box with two ripples across it.  The tom is then placed in an oblique  position, the water is brought on by means of a hose.  The dirt, stone,  clay &amp; all is then thrown in &amp; stirred with a shovel until the  water runs clear, the gold &amp; finer gravel goes through the seive  &amp; falls in the under box &amp; lodges above the ripples.  Three men  can wash all day without taking this out as the water washes the loose  gravel over and all the gold settles to the bottom.  One man will wash  as fast as two can pick &amp; shovel it in, or as fast as three rockers  or cradles.  And now I will tell you what I have done by digging for the  last few weeks.  I commenced about the first of Feb with F. Allerton of  our party &amp; L. Dutcher of Cairo.  The first week I made $82.72 cents,  the next, $42.00, we had to prospect some this week &amp; fix a new  place, the next I made $61.44, we built a dam &amp; dug a race to turn  the water this week &amp; one day it rained &amp; snowed.  The next week $112.81, &amp; one day it stormed so that we did not work.  The next  week two of us dug on Monday and made $21.50, each.  The next day three  dug in the forenoon &amp; made $11.33 each.  In the afternoon three of us dug &amp; we made $24.00 apiece.  This was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
155.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
155.sgm:best half day's  work that I have done in the mines &amp; the last that I have dug as it  has rained &amp; snowed most of the time since.  Some of our party have  not done so well, &amp; none better.  Some have done very well about here  last fall &amp; this winter.  Pieces have been found that were worth from  $1. to $50.  Allerton found one, worth $20.00.  Some have made as [much  as] 4, 5, 6, &amp; 8 oz. per day, &amp; one man last fall made one pound  or $192. in one day, near here, &amp; at Georgetown about 25 miles from  here one man took out 27 1/2 lb in one day, &amp; another party found one  lump worth $1019.00 &amp; another worth $450.00.  This I was told by one  of the party that found the big lumps, &amp; the largest one they sold  [for] $1150.00 &amp; I frequently hear of others making fortunes in one  day or a week.  These statements are all made calling the gold worth  $16.00 pr ounce, as this is what it is worth here, but in the states it  is worth more.  It passes here at that as quick as the coin &amp; is  taken every where but at the Post Offices.  So you see that all is not  Gossip about California, after all, there is gold here in abundance, but  it requires patience &amp; hard labor, with some skill &amp; experience  to obtain it.  If any man has his health &amp; will work, he can make  more than ten times as much here as he can in the states in the same  length of time.  But many, very many, that come here meet with bad  success &amp; thousands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:will leave their bones here.  Others  will lose their health, contract diseases that they will carry to their  graves with them.  Some will have to beg their way home, &amp; probably  one half that come here will never make enough to carry them back.  But  this does not alter the fact about the gold being plenty here, but shows  what a poor frail being man is, how liable to disappointments, disease  &amp; death.  How many that left home &amp; friends with every comfort of  life that any man ought to ask, &amp; with hopes high &amp; prospects  fair, have been cut down by the destroying angel, Death, &amp; left their  friends &amp; families to weep &amp; mourn over their untimely end &amp;  to struggle through this world, perhaps dependant upon the cold charities  of its inhabitants &amp; finally be called upon by the same messenger to  depart hence &amp; be here no more forever.  How sad the thought that man  did sin, &amp; thus Death entered our world and passed upon all--for all  had sinned.  But how Glorious the thought that Christ hath died to redeem  us from sin, &amp; that we, poor, frail, &amp; sinful as we are, can by a  life of obedience &amp; love to him, look up on death without afear &amp;  rise triumphant o'er the tomb &amp; wing our happy course to his bright  mansion in the Skies, where sin &amp; death cannot come, but where all  will be happiness, love &amp; praise.  Oh, is not this worth living for,  is not this worth more than all the gold of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:California &amp; the  riches of India.  Surely it is.  Then let us bear the ills of this life  &amp; meet its disappointments with Christian fortitude &amp; patience.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Nor never by the changes of fate be deprest,<LB>Nor wear like a fetter time's sorrowful chain,<LB>But believe that this world though it be not<LB>the best,<LB>Is the next to the best we shall ever attain....</HI>
155.sgm:<P>There is a good deal of sin &amp; wickedness going on here,  Stealing, lying, Swearing, Drinking, Gambling &amp; murdering.  There  is a great deal of gambling carried on here.  Almost every public House  is a place for Gambling, &amp; this appears to be the greatest evil  that prevails here.  Men make &amp; lose thousands in a night, &amp;  frequently small boys will go up &amp; bet $5 or 10-- &amp; if they lose all, go the next day &amp; dig more.  We are trying to get laws  here to regulate things but it will be very difficult to get them  executed.  We have had the President's message &amp; some of the  proceedings of congress.  The Message was generally liked here by  those of both parties.  Congress has probably had a stormy session, in  relation to California &amp; Slavery.  But the South cannot compell us  to receive their slaves as such, nor can they expect to fasten that  black &amp; wicked institution upon the soil of California.  If they do,  their expectations will fail, for the spirit of freedom is too strong here to ever be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:admitted into the Union except as a free State.   Slavery never can exist here unless an entire revolution of feeling takes  place for nearly all are deadly opposed to it.  I am very anxious to get  the later news from Washington.  There is considerable excitement here  to know the result of the application for admission.  We cannot get  papers very often.  When we do we have to pay one dollar each for them,  so that we do not get all the news from the states.  The Message was  the last we got.  Our Post Office affairs are in a state of perfect  derangement, &amp; if something is not done soon by the government we  shall make our own laws &amp; execute them too, for we have the cash  &amp; plenty of <HI REND="italics">grit</HI>
155.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 15th</HEAD>
155.sgm:<P>Dear Cos.</P>
155.sgm:<P>Not having an opportunity of sending my letter to the Office as soon  as I expected I shall trouble you with a few lines more.  I shall send  this tomorrow, by a friend.  It has rained &amp; snowed all this week so  that we have not dug any, but have been making shingles in our Cabin.  We  have a good Cabin, with windows, fireplace &amp; oven.  There is seven of  us &amp; we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:live very well &amp; enjoy life as well as any one  can under such circumstances.  We have plenty to eat.  Beef is from 25c to 50c pr pound, fresh pork from 60c to 80c pd &amp; venison about the same.  We have not killed any deer, but we found a calf that a Spanish  cow had with her &amp; we shot it &amp; had some veal, &amp; today we  shot a spanish steer &amp; now we have fresh a plenty.  These cattle get  away from drovers that bring them from the plains where they run wild,  &amp; they never look for them.  So any one kills them that pleases.   We get potatoes plenty, Irish at 50 cts pr pound, &amp; sweet ones at  from 60 to 75c pd...[FRAGMENT MISSING]...are brought from the Sandwich Islands.  Onions we pay...[FRAGMENT MISSING]...5 pr pound.  We do our  own cooking, washing &amp; mending &amp; some of it is in good style  too, but after all it is not like home to me, &amp; I look forward to  the time when I can say tis enough now I will go home, with a good deal  of anxiety.  But I have left those that I love as my own life behind  &amp; risked every thing and endured many hardships to get here, &amp;  I want to make enough to live easier &amp; do some good with, before I  return.  And if God sees fit to spare my life &amp; health I think I  shall.  My great anxiety is for my wife &amp; child.  I cannot hear  from them.  The last time I heard from them was dated the 14 August.  I  think Margaret has written often but owing to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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155.sgm:disarrangement  of the Post Office &amp; the distance that I am from one, (50 miles)  makes it very difficult to get etters.  I got one from Fulton a short  time ago.  Mother &amp; the girls ere well, &amp; now John I want when  you receive this, you should take his &amp; your wife &amp; go over  and see Margaret &amp; let her read it &amp; make her a visit, now,  won't you? well I think you will.  I do not know as she has ever got  any of the letters that I have written her from California, for I have  written 7 or 8, &amp; have not received an answer to one yet.  I sent  her a small specimen of the gold in one by a Methodist Minister that  was going to the States.  Also let Mr Tibbal's family read this, to  whom I send my best respects, as I count them among my best friends  &amp; shall write to them after I get upon the Yuba &amp; see what  success I have there, tell them to write to me.  Also give my best  respects to the rest of the cousins &amp; families, to Mr Hotchkiss  &amp; Lady, &amp; to your Father &amp; Mother, when you write to them  &amp; to all that take the trouble to enquire after my welfare.  Also  to Mrs Crooker although a stranger.  Still I feel an interest in her  welfare, &amp; shall ever consider myself her friend.  Should fortune  frown, or sickness bring low, write to me &amp; direct to Sacramento  City, California.  Give my respects to your wife &amp; reserve a large  share to yourself.<HSEP>Yours ffectionately</P>
155.sgm:<P>S.SHUFELT</P>
157.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-157</TITLE>
157.sgm:<TITLE>Reminiscences and incidents of "the early days" of San Francisco by John H. Brown; actual experience of an eye-witness, from 1845 to 1850: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
157.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
157.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
157.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
157.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
157.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
157.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
157.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-664</LCCN>
157.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
157.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
157.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
157.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
157.sgm:<FRONT><DIV><P>REMINISCENCES AND INCIDENTS,</P>
157.sgm:<P>OF</P>
157.sgm:<P>``THE EARLY DAYS''</P>
157.sgm:<P>OF</P>
157.sgm:<P>San Francisco,</P>
157.sgm:<P>BY</P>
157.sgm:<P>JOHN H. BROWN,</P>
157.sgm:<P>ACTUAL EXPERIENCE OF AN EYE-WITNESS, FROM 1845 TO 1850.</P>
157.sgm:<P>MISSION JOURNAL PUBLISHING CO.</P>
157.sgm:<P>MISSION STREET,</P>
157.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA.</P>
157.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
157.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
157.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1886,</P>
157.sgm:<P>By JOHN H. BROWN,</P>
157.sgm:<P>In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.</P>
157.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
157.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
157.sgm:<DIV><P><HI REND="italics">September</HI>
157.sgm: 28 <HI REND="italics">th</HI>
157.sgm:, 1885.<LB><HI REND="italics">Mr. J. H. Brown,</HI>
157.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">My Dear Sir:</HI>
157.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">I saw in the Call of the</HI>
157.sgm: 20 <HI REND="italics">th inst., with much surprise and pleasure, that you were still in the scene of our early acquaintance and still well and vigorous.    Also, that you contemplated putting your early adventures into print.  I trust you will not forget to send me a copy, and that you will include the ludicrous incidents of the fall and winter of</HI>
157.sgm: 1846 <HI REND="italics"> in the old City Hotel.  If I were nearer than three thousand miles I might assist your recollection of those old times.</HI>
157.sgm:<P> <HI REND="italics">I am the New York correspondent of the Call and Bulletin, the special telegraphic news daily sent to those papers is my contribution to the press of our whilom ``Yerba Buena.''  There is enough material extant relating to the days of</HI>
157.sgm: '46 <HI REND="italics"> to make a good sized and very readable book.  Hope you will make it go</HI>
157.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">With old-time regards and good wishes.</HI>
157.sgm:<P>Yours truly,</P>
157.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Edward Kemble,</HI>
157.sgm:<P> [ <HI REND="italics">The boy-editor of the old ``California Star.''</HI>
157.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
157.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
157.sgm:<DIV><P>In introducing myself to the Public, I wish to say that I was born in the City of Exeter, Devenshire, England.  While still very young, I left home to serve as an apprentice to my Uncle, on the packet ship ``England.''  I ran away after the third trip, and shipped for Havana, going thence to Philadelphia; which ended my sea-faring life.  From Philadelphia, I went to New York, where I remained a few months, then started for the West, going as far as Cincinnatti.  Leaving the latter place, to make my home among the Cherokees, the day after General Harrison; on his way to the Presidential Chair, left Pittsburg on the new steamer called the ``Ben.  Franklin.'' I remained with the Cherokees until May, 1843, when I started for California, arriving in the winter of the same year.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Having read at various times, the history of California, and especially that of the City of San Francisco, and knowing the same or portions of the same to be misrepresented, owing, no doubt, to the fact that most of the information contained therein, was received more from hearsay than actual experience.  I conceived the idea of giving my readers, a true history of the city, as well as I can recollect it, after a lapse of nearly forty years.</P>
157.sgm:<P>My book can hardly be called a history, but rather a book of reminiscences and incidents of early days, which, no doubt some of my friends will remember; and hoping that this book of mine will meet the eyes of many who were my friends in the early days of California,</P>
157.sgm:<P>I remain,</P>
157.sgm:<P>Yours respectfully,</P>
157.sgm:<P>JOHN H. BROWN.</P>
157.sgm:<BODY><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
157.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
157.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
157.sgm:<P>It was in the year 1843, that in company with a party of traders, I left the Cherokee Nation, for the purpose of purchasing skins and furs of the Indians of the different tribes, and to barter for anything else that offered itself in the way of trade.  This was my third trip in the mountains, and the trading business being good that year, we secured many more furs than usual.  When we reached Fort Bridger, we left what furs we had, and went farther north.  Here, we found winter coming on.  The weather was very cold, as there had already been a slight fall of snow.  This was in the month of October.  We determined to return to Fort Bridger; but, finding it impossible, made for Fort Hall, belonging to the Hudson Bay company, where we hoped to remain during the winter.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Upon our arrival however, Factor Grant, who had command of the Fort, informed us, that we could not stay there, as there were already a larger number than could be accommodated; and, unless the weather moderated, they would be short of provisions themselves.  We remained several days at Fort Hall, where we succeeded in making some horse trades.  During our stay, a person arrived by the name of Greenwood, who was accompanied by a boy, whom he called his son.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Upon asking him what he considered the best course for us to take, he advised us, by all means, to go to California; giving us all the necessary directions for doing so, and accompanying us himself, as far as Hooters Damm, where he left us, after repeating his directions as to our route, etc.  The first few days we traveled very slowly, until we reached Steep Holler, where the weather moderated somewhat, and we made better time, the rest of the way.  We reached our winter quarters, which were located upon the land, afterwards known as Johnson's Ranch, about the last of November.  Game of all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>The party were gone about three days; and on their return, brought all necessary supplies, and spoke in the highest terms of Captain Sutter and his treatment of them, he having refused to take any pay for the goods purchased, and even urged them to take more.  We remained in camp until the month of April 1844, when we once more resumed our travels.  We had only been out a few days, when we encountered very bad weather, in the shape of a snow-storm, which obliged us to camp for several days, thus retarding our progress somewhat.  At this point in our journey, three of our party wished to return direct to California; but, as we were only fourteen in number, Captain Cody would not allow them to do so, it being necessary to retain sufficient help to aid in carrying the large quantity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>The furs at Fort Bridger had been left in charge of a man belonging to St. Louis, by the name of Rubedure.  There were three men in the mountains, bearing this name, all of whom were brothers.  As soon as the weather moderated we resumed our journey to Fort Hall; but, do the best we could, our progress was slow, as the water in the streams was very high, and in some cases almost impassable.  We remained three or four days at Fort Hall, then started once more for Fort Bridger.  On this part of our route we made excellent time, travelling at the rate of forty miles per day.  At Fort Bridger, we made a stay of ten days, then once more resumed our order of march; this time having Fort Laramie in view as our destination.  These three places mentioned being the only houses or forts located in the large section of country between Missouri California and Oregon.</P>
157.sgm:<P>When two weeks out, we met a large company of people en-route for Oregon, with whom we had a short conversation, in which we endeavored to persuade them to go to California, but without success.  Several days later, we came across another party, while in camp; and stayed with them over night, also accepting their kind invitation to supper.  After supper we built a large camp-fire, around which we all sat, and we told our new friends what we had seen of California, of the richness of its soil and the fine pastures in the winter season.  They would scarcely believe all we told them, but seemed facinated with our stories nevertheless.  They said they had heard of California before, but had no idea of the beauty and wealth of the country.  Captain Cody, while at Sutter's Fort, had made minute inquiries about the country, and consequently could give them all the information they desired or needed.  He also took many of the names of the party; and, as nearly as I can remember, some of them were as follows: Grandpa Murphy, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>On separating from this party the next morning, we left the main traveled road, and did not return to it again for several days, and when we did, the first thing we saw in the distance, was a large party on their way to Oregon, as we supposed, but they were too far away for us to have any communication with them, and they must have failed even to hear the report of our rifles, when we saluted them, as they took no notice of us.  Changing our course somewhat at this point, we traveled in a southerly direction in order to reach the Osage country, as it was called in those days, the name having since been changed to Kansas.  From the latter place we went to Grand River, which at that time divided the Cherokee Nation from the Osage country, going thence to the Illinois River in the Cherokee Nation, where we arrived in the month of August, 1844.</P>
157.sgm:<P>During our stay here, a number of murders were committed, and Anderson Lawrey, the Chief of Police, appointed Captain Cody in command of a large company of volunteers, for the purpose of bringing the criminals to justice.  Three men known as the Starr boys, were suspected of having committed the crimes, and in order to get on their track as soon as possible, we started at once for Fort Gibson, of which Colonel Mason was the commander, and General Butler the agent for the Cherokee Nation, to obtain permission to travel through the country occupied by the Choctaw and Chickasaw Nations.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>The first crime he confessed to, was the brutal murder of one entire family at Kane Hill, Arkansas.  This murder attracted considerable attention at the time, as three innocent men said to have committed the crime, suffered the penalty attached thereto by hanging, while the real criminals escaped.  The next victim, was a horse-jockey, supposed to have considerable money in his possession; only two dollars was found upon his person however at the time of the murder.  A lawyer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>The Starr boys were accused of many other murders, of which no positive proof could be brought against them.  Tewey Starr lived but a short time, after making his confession, dying at midnight, after five days of the most intense suffering.  After resting a while longer at the Fort, we started after the two other outlaws, travelling through the country for about two weeks without finding any trace of them, and as winter was coming on, and the weather bad, we started for the Cherokee Nation to remain during the winter months.  A few days later, some of our party, (married men) left for their homes.  On their way hither, they were overtaken by certain friends of the Starr boys, who had vowed to be revenged upon the parties who had assisted in hunting them down, and were murdered in cold blood.  One man named Six Killer, an Indian, was literally cut to pieces.  Anderson Lawrie and myself were shot at several times, while going from the Council grounds to his house, and it was a mere matter of chance that we did not share the same fate as our companions.  I was advised to leave the Cherokee Nation, or remain at the risk of my life, as the Starr boys had themselves sworn vengeance upon all who came in their way.  Three of our party were murdered, after I left the country.</P>
157.sgm:<P>In the early part of April, I went to Missouri for the purpose of joining a company of emigrants who were bound for Oregon or California.  I traveled with a family named Martin, who went to Oregon.  The hardships we endured, and the dangers we encountered were enough to appall the stoutest heart, and to try the patience of a saint.  Three days after leaving Missouri, the company decided to elect a Pilot.  There were two candidates for the position, named Meeks and Brown.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>In crossing a certain river filled with large rocks, which could only be avoided by going out of the regular track, and even then one was not always successful in doing so, a certain family which was composed of the father and mother and three daughters, were so unfortunate as to have their wagon upset.  At the time of the accident the wagon was driven by a hired man, the father having gone ahead of the party.  The women would all have been drowned if we had not gone immediately to their assistance, as the father lost his presence of mind entirely, and instead of making an effort to release them from their perilous position, he stood upon the bank of the river, praying that God would forgive all his past sins and help him to rescue his loved ones from a watery grave.  After a great deal of hard work, we succeeded at last in righting the wagon and bringing it and the women ashore, where we made the latter as comfortable as our circumstances would permit.</P>
157.sgm:<P>The next incident, of any interest to my readers, occurred while crossing a swamp.  The Indians had here constructed a crossing, which upon our testing it proved to be a regular trap in which we lost some of our cattle.  It was made by driving stakes into the ground, the outer ends of which were sharpened.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>Crossing the mountains in early days was quite an undertaking, and in a number of places the gulches were so steep, that we had to chop down trees and chain them to the hind axle-trees, rough lock the hind wheels, and even put two or three men upon the tree to keep the wagon from going over on the cattle.  We thought these roads pretty bad, but after leaving Fort Hall they were much worse.  In many places, we had to take the wagons down by hand, while in others, we found we were absolutely obliged to build a road before we could proceed any farther.  Sometimes by hitching ten or twelve oxen to a team we managed, after a hard struggle, to get out of some of the steepest gulches.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Well may the Murphy company be called the ``Pioneers of California,'' as no one, at this late day, can form an idea of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>The first person I met in San Francisco, was a Mr. Thompson, who had formerly had a blacksmith shop in the Cherokee Nation, and of course we were much surprised and pleased at meeting each other in California.  I made his house my home while in San Francisco, but I had not been there very long, before I came to the conclusion that my chances for securing employment of any kind, were very poor.  There was one small general merchandise store in the place, one billiardroom and one liquor saloon; the latter having just opened by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>I remember one person in particular, named Kennedy, who caused me considerable annoyance.  He came into the kitchen, one day, where I was busily engaged preparing dinner and was in the act of helping himself to some of the good things, intended especially for the Captain's table, when I called upon him to desist, threatening to punish him if he did not.  He persisted however, and had just made a grab at the things, when I struck him over the head with the frying-pan with such force, as to break the bottom out of the pan, and he ran off with the rim of it around his neck, shouting ``murder! murder!'' I held on to the handle as long as I could, but was finally obliged to let go.  Kennedy soon returned armed with a rifle, and declared that he would shoot me at sight; but a good friend of mine, Grove Cook by name, here came to my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>Nearly all the trades were represented at the Fort, and I will here give a short account of the business of the place: The Bakery in connection with the Fort, was in charge of George Davis.  My friend, Grove Cook run the Distillery and a man named Montgomery did good work as a Gun-smith, while Tom and Jim Smith served respectively as shoemaker and farm-overseer.  Santa Clara Murphy (before alluded too) and his son were farm hands.  The Tannery was in charge of a German, whose name I do not recollect.  Stevens and Neil attended to the Black-smithing, which was carried on in all its branches.  One man named Bonner who in company with his wife and children had arrived at the Fort in 1845, professed to be a Cooper by trade, and on the strength of his assertions, Captain Sutter purchased a large quantity of oak wood for the manufacture of tubs, casks, buckets, etc.  Bonner, however, proved to be thoroughly dishonest, for after getting in debt to the Captain for provisions alone amounting to two hundred dollars, he suddenly made up his mind that his family would be benefited by a change of climate and one day in spring they quietly took their departure for Oregon, leaving the Captain to whistle for his money.  Captain Sutter had many such persons to deal with, and I will give one more instance, to illustrate the manner in which some unscrupulous people manoeuver in order to get ahead and acquire property: There lived quite close to the Fort a man named Percy Macomb, whom Captain Sutter employed to attend to his stock, paying him for his labor by giving him a few head of cattle.  Unbeknown to the Captain, Macomb branded a lot of the calves with his own mark, so that in two years time his cattle showed an increase of three-fold.  To obviate this difficulty and do away with all chance for dishonesty the Captain, on the following <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>In the latter part of December I received a letter from Finch and Thompson, before alluded too in my trip to Yerba Buena, saying that they would give me a situation and pay me ten dollars per month, if I would return to San Francisco.  I gave Captain Sutter notice of my intention to leave, and he immediately offered to raise my wages and to also give me the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>A few days later Captain Sutter dispatched a whaleboat to Yerba Buena, in charge of William Swazey who had orders to return to the Fort as soon as possible if he met Captain Leidsoff and Hinckley.  Cooper and myself accompanied him as passengers.  When out about two hours, we stopped at a landing on the river, owned by a German named Schwartz.  While here, a boat hove in sight, having Hinckley and Leidsoff on board.  Swazey therefore returned with them to the Fort, as ordered, while Cooper and I remained at Schwartz's place.  We had been there about two days, when the schooner from the Fort arrived, and upon boarding it, we were greatly surprised to find Captain Fremont occupying the cabin, while below in the hold, where we took up our quarters, were Ressy and McCune, two of Fremont's men, and Tom Smith the shoemaker at Fort Sutter.  Our quarters were necessarily rather cramped while on board the boat, but we managed to get along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>There were but two white ladies in the town at this time.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Among the early residents of the place may be numbered Mr. John C. Davis, an Englishman by birth, and ship carpenter by trade, who with his wife (a daughter of Mr. Yundt, an extensive farmer at Napa) and his two daughters, occupied a house on Washington street, together with two men named John Ross and Cheno Reynolds; both of whom were unmarried, the former being a Scotchman and the latter an Englishman.  These two mentioned were also ship carpenters and were in partnership with Davis, who afterwards lived and died in Napa.  Alexander Forbes, his wife and three children lived on Montgomery street, near the corner of Clay, in a house built by Jacob Leese, afterwards sold by the Hudson Bay Company, to William M. Howard, together with four fifty vara lots, located on Montgomery, Clay and Sacramento streets.  Robert T. Ridley, an Englishman by birth, and married, kept the Villiard Saloon.  Captain Voight and family occupied a house on the corner of Sacramento and Kearny streets.  The Captain was a Surveyor as well as a sea-faring man, and owned two fifty vara lots on Clay street, one on Sacramento street, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>At the Mission Dolores there resided the following persons: Francisco Guerrero, Francisco Sanchez and brother, Andrew Hepner, a Russian who followed the occupation of a gardener and music teacher; a Mexican named Valencia, a musician, two families mixed Indian and Mexican, whose names I have forgotten, a Mexican who claimed a large tract of land a half mile from the Mission, and a family named Beannell.</P>
157.sgm:<P>The following is a list of those in authority under the Mexican Government, in 1846, prior to the raising of the American Flag: Prefect, Francisco Guerrero; First Alcalde, Osa Lacruy Sanchez; this latter gentleman lived seventeen miles from Yerba Buena, and in his frequent absences the Second Alcalde, Jesus Noe, acted in his place, while Robert T. Ridley, (who married the eldest daughter of Mr. Baroma) acted as Second Alcalde; Francisco Deharo was Syndicate.</P>
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157.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
157.sgm:<P>When I first came to the city, there was only one vessel in the harbor, the bark ``Emma'' of London, England.  I cannot recall the Captain's name; but the First Officer was Mr. Pritchard, the Second, Mr. Norris.  They were on a whaling trip and stopped at Yerba Buena for supplies, etc.</P>
157.sgm:<P>The only pay the City officials received for their services, was that raised by fines, most of which was taken from sailors, who would remain on shore after sunset.  The fine for this offense was usually five or ten dollars, as the case might be, and the money thus received was equally divided between the authorities.  Captains and First officers were permitted to remain on shore as long as they pleased.</P>
157.sgm:<P>As stated elsewhere I was in the employ of Finch and Thompson, having charge of the bar, and also keeping the accounts.  Mr. Finch was a man of but little education; in fact, he could neither read nor write, and he had a peculiar way of his own in keeping accounts.  He had an excellent memory for names and was in the habit of noting any peculiarity about a person as regards his dress and general appearance.  Captain Hinckley wore brass buttons on his coat and was represented on the books by a drawing of a button.  A certain sawyer in the place was represented by a drawing of the top saws of a saw pit, and many others were thus represented according to their various characteristics or callings.  Many of the drawings showed considerable ingenuity and originality.  I remained with Finch about three weeks, during that time I became acquainted with Robert T. Ridley the proprietor of a liquor and billiard saloon.  He made me an offer of fifty dollars per month to take charge of his place.  I accepted the offer and commenced my work there in the early part of February. 1846.</P>
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157.sgm:<P>The bark ``Sterling'' of Boston, Captain Vincent, Master; and William Smith, Super Cargo; arrived in port in February, with a full cargo.  Ridley had made some large purchases of wines and liquors from Mr. Smith.  The billiard-room was at that time the head-quarters for all strangers in the city, both foreigners and Californians.  All persons wishing to purchase lots would apply to Ridley: as the first map of surveyed land was kept in the bar-room, the names of those who had lots granted were written on the map.  The map was so much soiled and torn from the rough usage it received, that Captain Hinckley volunteered to make a new one.  He tried several times; but, being very nervous he could not succeed in making the lines straight, so he got me to do the work, according to his instructions.  The original map was put away for safe keeping.  The maps were left in the bar-room, until after the raising of the American Flag, when they were demanded of me by Washington A. Bartlett, of the United States Ship Portsmouth, by order of Captain Montgomery.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Things went on as usual in the city until the latter part of May, when a report reached the city, that trouble was expected.  A party at Sutter's Fort were raising a company to take possession of the upper part of California.  In the early part of June, a boat arrived from Martinez, with the news that Sonoma was taken, and a proclamation, with Mr. Hyde's signature, was posted in a prominent place which announced that General Vallejo and Timothy Murphy, of San Rafael, with many others, were taken prisoners.  A few days after, a party of fourteen Californians came to Saucelito, and wanted to hire Captain Richardson's boat, to take them across to Yerba Buena.  As they were all well armed with pistols, rifles and guns and were very much excited and badly frightened, Richardson inquired what the trouble was, they told him that a party of four armed men were pursuing them, and that they were afraid they would be shot.  As they were fourteen against four, Captain Richardson asked why they did not stand their ground, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>Robert T. Ridley returned to the city to carry out the orders of General Castro, but could not find anyone to assist him, as there was not one Mexican citizen to be found in Yerba Buena, and the few foreigners who were here, were in favor of the ``Bear Flag,'' as it was called.  This flag was made at Sutter's Fort, of bunting, and had the picture of a grizzly bear painted in the center, as the parties making the flag had no paint on hand, they used some blackberry juice, which answered the purpose very well.  (The flag can still be seen at the Pioneer's Hall, in San Francisco).  But they did not take up arms until the American Flag was raised.</P>
157.sgm:<P>A few days after the return of Ridley, a boat landed with two men, named Edge Path and Dr. Sample; Edge Path remained to guard the boat, and Sample came to the billiard-room and inquired for Mr. Ridley.  He was in the house at the time and I went to call him, and when I returned with Ridley to the billiard-room, Sample drew his pistol and commanded Ridley to stand still, saying: ``If you make a move, or attempt to escape, you will be a dead man.''  Ridley wished to return to his room for some clothing, Dr. Sample refused, and told me to go and get the clothing he wanted.  When I returned with the clothing, Ridley took some money, and two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>In the latter part of June, a gentleman by the name of Gillespie, an officer, arrived in San Francisco, on his way to Sutter's Fort, to recall Fremont, who was about leaving California.  We were daily expecting to hear of the Declaration of War between the United States and Mexico; and, about this time I received a letter from Ridley, asking me to call on Captain Montgomery, and inform him that he was a prisoner; and to ascertain whether he could in any way, be instrumental in securing his release.  I made inquiries of some of the officers, and also of Captain Montgomery, of the Portsmouth, who informed me that he had no power to act, until he received the news of the Declaration of War between the United States and Mexico.  When this announcement was received, all persons who had been taken prisoners, under the Bear Flag would be released.</P>
157.sgm:<P>The next vessel that arrived in port was the ``Magnolia,'' Master, Captain Simmonds, afterwards associated with the well known firm of Simmonds and Hutchinson, who were doing an extensive business at that time.  The ``Magnolia'' remained only a few days in the harbor and then went to sea again.  In the early part of July there were some false reports started; one of which was to the effect, that an English Man of War was coming in to hoist the English Flag.  It was the wish of most Californians to be under the English Government.  One morning in July, while we were eating breakfast; there was a very heavy gun fired, and in about five minutes, the long roll was beat on board the United States Ship Portsmouth.  All <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>I will here mention, for the first time, the name of Captain Grant, who stayed with me at this time, more than a month, as he was very sick.  He was attended daily by the surgeon of the Portsmouth.  He was removed to Napa, where he died shortly after.</P>
157.sgm:<P>I will give a true account of the reading, for the first time, of the Declaration of Independence, in this city, July 4th, 1846: On the morning of July 4th, Captain Leidsoff asked me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>Shortly after the hoisting of the American Flag, some men were sent ashore from the Portsmouth to build a house, in which a cannon was placed for the better protection of the people.  They also cut a road and built a Fort, some distance below Clark's Point, which is now known as the lower end of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>I will here relate how the first hotel in the city got the name of Portsmouth House.  The non-commissioned officers on board the Portsmouth, Whittaker, the sail-maker and Whinnesy, the ship carpenter offered to make the sign-board, paint it and find everything needed, if I would call it by this name.  I agreed; the sign was made on board the Portsmouth, brought ashore, and put on the building; and it was the first sign-board ever put up in the now large city of San Francisco.  In July, 1846, Captain Montgomery sent ashore Washington A. Bartlett, to take charge of the town and to act as Alcalda.  There came with him a young man, called Downing, who acted as clerk.  Downing served but a short time when he was ordered aboard ship.  The next clerk was George McDougal The officer at this time lived in the frame residence of William C. Hinckley, on Montgomery, between Clay and Washington streets.  There was considerable contention among the Mormon residents.  Several suits were commenced against Samuel Brannan, and tried before Washington A. Bartlett, complaints were made to Captain Montgomery that Bartlett showed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>As soon as the American Flag was hoisted, Captain Watson was sent on shore to guard the city with a file of marines from the ship Portsmouth.  Their head-quarters being the adobe building, known as the old Custom-House.  There was a captain here, by the name of Philips, from Boston, who had lost his vessel at Bodego, who did a very brave act; he took his boat with four men, went to the Presidio, where the old Mexican cannons were lying on the ground and ``spiked'' them, thinking that he was doing the Government a favor.  He might have taken up his abode at the Fort without any difficulty, as there was not a Spaniard nearer than the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>There were three persons, who arrived by the ship Brooklyn, as cabin passengers, who were not Mormons.  I believe one of them is still living at Benicia, by the name of Van Phfster.  A man named Captain Thompson, a brother to Mr. Thompson of Santa Barbara, also Frank Ward, a merchant, whose store was on Montgomery street in a house owned by Mrs. Wm. C. Hinckley.  Several days after the alarm above mentioned, the authorities commenced erecting a log building, for the use of the cannon, so that they would be in readiness to protect the city in case of another alarm.  They commenced at the same time to build a battery, some distance below Clark's Point.  In early days it was a very common thing for sailors to run away from their vessels.  It was pretty generally understood that the captain would give five dollars reward to anyone returning the runaway to his respective vessel.  One person whom I will mention here by the name of Peckham, is now living in San Jose and he will, no doubt, remember the circumstances.  When Peckham arrived here during the Mexican war, on the whale ship ``Magnet,'' (Captain Bottom) he deserted the vessel, thinking he could get away without being known.  A few days later, while the Captain was in the billiard-room, Tom Smith, (a man who made it a regular business to catch runaway sailors) informed the Captain that one of the men had deserted.  The Captain was surprised and inquired what kind of a looking man he was.  Tom told him he was a ``seven footer,'' and after thinking a moment, the Captain made up his mind who it was.  He then asked Smith what he got for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>A schooner was built and launched here in 1846, by the following parties: John C. Davis, John Rose and Cheno Reynolds.  The iron work was done by Finch and Thompson; the sails were made by ``Jack the soldier,'' or rather, John Cooper, who was an old English sailor.  This schooner was of great benefit to the city, as it made regular trips to Santa Clara and Napa, and each time would bring in a great assortment of provisions.  The schooner was sold in 1847 to Captain Folsom, to be used by the United States.  The first trip this vessel made for the Government, was to take a horse-saw mill to the ``Cordes Madera,'' the latter was the property of Captain Cooper, of Monterey, and it was soon put in running order by men from Stevenson's Company, and made a large quantity of lumber for the Government.  There were a number of house carpenters amongst the Mormons, arriving in 1846; who commenced several buildings which were not finished until 1847.  I will mention them hereafter, as I think some of the buildings are now standing.  In reading the history of early days in this country, I have seen mentioned the names of many persons now living in California, who got a good deal of praise, which they never deserved; and which should have been credited to others whose names have never appeared in print, and who were too modest to feel otherwise than that they had done their duty.  I will mention first those who were of great service to the country during the Mexican war, Purser Whatmore of the sloop of war ``Portsmouth.''  He was instrumental <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
157.sgm:<P>A vessel arrived here called the ``Uphamer,'' of which Captain Russem, an Englishman, was Master; William Davis (better known as ``Kanacka'' Davis) was Super-Cargo, and owner.  A Mr. Sherman came to Yerba Buena as Davis's clerk, (afterwards of the firm of Sherman and Ruckler).  At the time the city was under Martial Law, a young man, who professed to be a lawyer, by the name of Pickett, better known as ``Crazy Pickett,'' was put under arrest for saying more against the Government than those in authority though proper.  In the latter part of November, there arrived in port Captain Mervin, of the ship ``Savannah,'' and Captain Hull of the ship ``Warren.''  Captain Hull was sent ashore on duty, and he rented two rooms for himself in the hotel, and got canvas from his ship to fit up the verandah, for the use of his men, as there was barely room in the Custom-House for the marines.  He and I would often have some little trouble about matters in general.  One I will mention here: The Californians would bring beef to me for the use of the hotel; but, would not bring beef to me for the use of the hotel; but, would not bring any for the use of the Government, and Hull would often make threats to confiscate my meat.  This was about the time of Bartlett's imprisonment by the Californians.  Bartlett concluded that the only way they could obtain beef, would be to go the ranches, and drive the cattle in; but, that was much easier thought than done.  He obtained some horses and left the city with some eight sailors, well armed and equipped for any emergency.  He arrived at Osa Lacruz Sanchez' house seventeen miles from the city, and as Sanchez, would not drive up the cattle he and his men undertook to do so.  The cattle were driven into the corral, and they were getting ready to start home with them, when Francisco Sanchez and two of his soldiers rode into the corral and inquired of Bartlett what he was going to do with the cattle.  Bartlett replied that he was going to take them for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>It was a good thing for the Californians that they came to terms, as a company of over forty men from Monterey, under Captain Maddox, arrived soon after; they would not have shown the Californians any quarters, and they seemed to think that what Forbes had told them was perfectly correct.  The flag of truce put a stop to all war proceedings, and peace again, reigned supreme.  At the beginning of the battle of Santa Clara, one Castro, who had charge of Bartlett and his men, informed Bartlett that if any Californians should be shot in the fight, that Bartlett would be shot down first, and each prisoner should share the same fate.  As Sanchez was riding by Bartlett called to him, and told him what Castro had said.  Sanchez then called Castro to him, also the three guards under him, who had charge of the prisoners, and told them if they hurt but one hair on the heads of the men; or, if any of the prisoners were injured while in their charge, he would shoot Castro and the guards down himself.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Francisco Sanchez was an honorable, noble and high-minded man, and would scorn to do anything mean or contemptible.  That night we went to San Jose; and, on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>I have here to chronicle one of the first and saddest events that befell this city in those days: Captain Montgomery, of the Sloop of War ``Portsmouth'' had on board with him three sons.  One was an officer, one, a captain's clerk, and the other, a boy from ten to twelve years of age.  After the raising of the American Flag over California, the Government had in their employ several men at Sutter's Fort.  They had been without pay some four months, when a boat was dispatched with the money, under the command of Young Montgomery.  The crew, consisting of seven men.  Young Montgomery thinking it would be a pleasure trip for his youngest brother, prevailed on his father to permit him to go with him.  After they had been out double the time it ought to have taken to go to the Fort, and boats arriving from the Fort not seeing or hearing anything <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>A report arrived in town that the Californians were again mustering to take the city.  It was only known by very few persons, Fonteroy being the principle one, he enlisted the following named persons to go with him to the Presidio.  Captain King, Master of a vessel belonging to the Sandwich Island, and owned by Alexander G. Able; a Super-Cargo, by the name of Chever; Mr. Gordon, late of Boston, a newspaper agent; and Mr. Stetson.  These gentleman had provisions put up for their journey, and a bottle of whiskey for each.  They engaged a man named Collins, the second steward of the hotel, to carry the refreshments for them.  They had been enjoying themselves pretty well that evening, as they expected to start between eleven and twelve o'clock, and ordered breakfast to be ready for them at ten o'clock next morning.  About three o'clock in the morning there was some heavy knocking at the front door of the hotel, and who should be there but those great warriors; and such looking men as they were would be hard to find anywhere.  It commenced to rain soon after they left, and one of the heaviest showers set in, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>When the Doctor came to examine the cook, he found there were no bones broken; he was only stunned and badly scalded; but not seriously.  There is one witness to the above accident, who is now living in San Jose, by the name of William C. Clark, well-known in the city, who has cause to remember the circumstances; as he came from Clark's Point to the Barracks; which, in those days, owing to the roughness of the roads, was considered a pretty good walk.  For some time after that, when Clark would meet me in the street, he would stop and have me relate the circumstance of the ``bursting of the coffee-pot'' to his friends.  The next thing of importance was the arrival of Colonel Mason, who was sent as Governor of California.  He made his head-quarters at Brown's Hotel.  I was acquainted with him at Fort Gibson, and he was very glad to meet me in this country.  William D. Howard fitted up some rooms for him over his store, on the old Hudson Bay property; but, he preferred staying with his old friend Brown; and whenever he was in the city he always stopped at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>In 1846 there were two ships on this coast belonging to Boston.  One was called the ``Tosso,'' of which William D. M. Howard was Super-Cargo, Captain Libby, Master and Dave Long the Mate.  This latter gentleman afterwards became famous as a clown.  The other ship was the ``Vandalin,'' Master, Captain Everett and Super-Cargo, Henry Mellish.  These vessels traded in general merchandise for hides, running from San Diego to San Francisco.  They had small boats with which they used to go and come between the vessels and the shore to deliver goods and collect hides, etc.  They went to Napa, Sonoma, San Rafael, San Jose, Santa Clara and all places on the coast where the water was not deep enough for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>For many years the distress and suffering of emigrants, while crossing the mountains during the winter months, was fearful to contemplate.  They were often overtaken by severe snow-storms, and their wagons afforded them little, if any shelter from the cold piercing winds.  They were not provided with suitable clothing, and had no comforts whatever; not even a fire, and many of them endured hardships which are indescribable.  The emigrants to California in early days knew well how to appreciate their new homes, and the fact that they were once more in a civilized country, among friends, strangers though they might be, who were only too willing to welcome them and make them as comfortable as possible.  George Donnell was brought to the city about this time and I gave him his board and Lawyer Hastings (the Path Finder) gave him his clothes.  The boy had many small presents given him in money, which he saved.  George McDougal took what money he had and got some persons to contribute more to it, and bought two fifty vara lots for the boy, which afterwards proved quite valuable.  The lots were on Folsom street.  About this time Dr. Sample started a newspaper in Monterey, and the boy made a little by delivering papers, when they arrived in town; but it did not last long, as Dr. Sample sold out to Edward C. Kemble, who started a paper in San Francisco called the ``Sun,'' it was not expected to last long, as Kemble was very young, and was known as ``The Boy Editor;'' but the paper became a great success, and from that paper came one of the largest papers now published in San Francisco, we refer to the ``Alta,'' California, which has always been considered, one of the most reliable newspapers ever printed in this city.  His <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>In the year 1847 the Bark Whiting arrived, which had on board as passengers the following persons: Charles Ross, and a young man, whose parents were very wealthy, and who had sent him out here to reform; but, I think it was a hard place in which to reform a young man.  The captain left money with Robert A. Parker for his board, also a small sum to be given him as pocket money every week.  Later on he left for Sutter's Fort, and I heard that he died at Cordeway's Ranch, now known as the city of Marysville.  I have entirely forgotten the name of the young man; but, the captain told me that his father was one of the wealthiest merchants in the city of New York.  On board the same ship, enroute for Oregon was a Methodist preacher by the name of Roberts, accompanied by his wife and daughter.  While the vessel lay in the harbor, he often came ashore.  He informed me that if it was convenient, and would be agreeable to the citizens to have him do so, he would like to hold services on Sunday.  I told him he could have the use of the dining-room, and that I knew he would have a good congregation.  On Sunday morning, June 1847, I posted a notice that there would be preaching that day at the hotel.  The room was filled, and the Reverend Mr. Roberts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
157.sgm:<P>I have heard and seen many times in print, reports of those who first discovered gold dust in California.  In regard to the first person who discovered it, I do not wish to say, as several claimed the honor; but, I well remember who brought the first gold dust to the city.  It was brought by a man belonging to Oregon, by the name of Bennett, in the month of October, 1847.  Mr. Bennett arrived in the city of Yerba Buena, and came to Brown's Hotel, and inquired if he could be accommodated for a few days.  He was a tall spare man, with light hair, inclined to be sandy.  In conversation, he informed me that he was from Oregon, and that his business in the city was to try to find some person who had a cash capital of about one thousand dollars.  I informed him that there were persons in the house who had that amount or more.  He wished me to give him an introduction, as he could make a good thing for them and himself.  The next day I introduced him to George McDougal.  After the introduction I was going to leave the room, when McDougal called me back, and said if there was anything to be made I should have an interest with them.  Bennett then took from his pocket an old fashioned English snuff-box, about the size of a ten cent blacking-box, and observed to McDougal, that if he was willing to spend his money for the purchase of red and blue blankets, that he could obtain for him any amount of that kind of metal, (showing him at the same time what the box contained) but McDougal thought it was a put up job to get money out of him, and he informed Bennett that it would pay him better to try some one else.  The next one I thought of was Major Humphries.  He had been a miner for many years before he came to California.  He informed me that he had worked in the Galena Mines, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>George McDougal and Benjamin Lippincott entered into partnership in the livery business, and found it to be very profitable.  They shared the same room in the hotel.  The room faced on the verandah, and contained a large sized window, which was easy of access from the outside.  One day while the two gentlemen were at dinner, a writing-desk was taken from under the bed, containing about sixteen hundred dollars in Mexican gold coin.  This robbery was not discovered until late in the evening, when McDougal went to get some money to pay out, and found the desk and money gone.  Suspicion was very strong against certain parties.  Every man in the city turned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>On the first of October, in 1847, I called on Captain Leidsoff to pay him five hundred dollars for the first payment of my second year's rent for the hotel.  This amount was for three months in advance; but he would not accept the payment unless I would agree to pay him three thousand dollars per year.  When I took the house, the verbal agreement was for five years, at the rate of two thousand dollars per year.  I thought the last requirement an imposition, and so, on the 28th day of October, 1847, I closed the house.  At the time I bought my furniture I thought I was paying a high price for it, and Leidsoff made me an offer to take the furniture and the house at first cost; but, I found out that I could make fifty per cent on first cost by retailing them to different parties.  There were then many families in the city, and it was very difficult to obtain good furniture.  The only thing I sold to Leidsoff was a cooking range, for which he paid me two hundred and fifty dollars.  I bought it in the first place of Stephen Harris, who arrived here in Stevenson's Regiment, for the sum of one hundred dollars.  On the last of October I took up my board and lodgings <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>I will mention one more incident that occurred about this time, which may be of some interest.  A whale ship arrived in port having on board a sailor who had broken his leg, and as the captain did not know how to get along with him, he concluded to leave him in the city.  The doctor wanted to amputate his leg; but the man objected to it, until he found it had to be done in order to save his life.  The doctor's name was Fewraguard; he was a Frenchman, and was considered to be a very skillful surgeon.  In the month of September, 1847, Captain Fulsom called on me to assist during the operation, previous to this I had thought I was equal to any task or emergency; especially, where nerve power was required, as I have seen men shot down, and even cut to pieces, and until this time I never realized that it was possible for me to be so tender-hearted.  My part during the operation was to hold the man's arms over my shoulders, clasping his hand with both mine.  When I felt the cold perspiration on his hand I fainted, and had to be taken out of the room.  I never fainted before nor since.  I do not think it was much over a minute from the time the operation commenced before the leg was cut off, so quickly was it done.  The man remained in the city until he recovered.  Captain Fulsom made up a purse for him, with which he purchased a wooden leg, and got him a passage to the Eastern States.  This was probably the first surgical operation ever performed in the city of San Francisco.</P>
157.sgm:<P>A vessel arrived here in the summer of 1846, called the ``Don Quixet.''  She was owned by the Sandwich Island Government, and carried two guns.  Commodore John Patey was in command; Southard was chief officer; and James Gleason was captain's clerk.  The balance of the crew were natives of the Island.  The vessel was bark rigged.  On the 28th day of November, 1847, I made a bargain with a Mr. Mitchner for the purchase of a place called Yeaty, near Honolulu.  I was to pay off a mortgage on the property, and give him two fifty vara lots, and two hundred dollars in cash if the title <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>When runaway sailors once reached the shelter of the woods they were perfectly safe, as no person dared to go after them, for if they did, they never would return alive.  The scow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>At this time gold dust was only worth eight dollars per ounce, and the gamblers would not play for it.  Those having no coin were obliged to come to the bar and sell the dust for eight dollars per ounce; and when I was short of cash I would only pay six dollars per ounce.  All persons that were boarding in the hotel, also, those running bar bills, on making payments we would buy their gold dust at the rate of eight dollars per ounce.  The first shipment which I made was with Captain Newell, of the schooner Honolulu, which was going to the Sandwich Islands for goods.  I remember giving Newell twenty pounds of gold dust in bottles, with which to purchase goods for me, and he was to sell the balance of the dust and bring back what cash remained after purchasing the goods.  The next was Captain John Young, who, later on had charge of the Alameda Quicksilver Mines.  He had a charter for Mazatlan.  He had only half a cargo.  I gave him a gallon pickle bottle full of gold dust; just how much it weighed I could not tell.  On his return I received a large amount of coin, more than the first cost of the gold dust; also, all the goods I had sent for.  Commodore John Patey would take gold dust for me on every trip, and would return to me such goods as I would order from him, and the balance in money.  These Captains would charge me ten per cent on all money they brought back, and also ten per cent and freight for all the goods they purchased for me.</P>
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157.sgm:<P>I am almost afraid you will hardly believe that in those days money could be made so easily, and in so short a time.  In the bar-room alone, they were taking from two thousand five hundred to over three thousand dollars every day.  There were also ten gambling tables, which would each pay from seventy to one hundred dollars per day.  At the commencement of my taking gold dust, I thought it would be to my advantage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>I had a great advantage over most persons in obtaining coin.  During the latter part of the summer, a great many persons came to the city, all of whom had coin, and we accommodated as many as we possibly could at the hotel.  The only money they had was coin, and I think I may say, that one-half of the cash which was brought here by the passengers was spent in the hotel.  I was well acquainted with the captains with whom I had dealings, and had full confidence in their honesty; and felt quite sure that I ran no risk in trusting them with the gold dust; the percentage, aside from the freight, was ten per cent on the cash returns, and ten per cent on the goods purchased.</P>
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157.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
157.sgm:<P>We must not neglect to mention the first fire that took place during the early days of this city.  A house, by the name of ``The Shades,'' used as a boarding and lodging saloon, caught fire one morning about two o'clock.  An alarm was given, and it being the first fire that had happened in the city, it seemed as though every person was on hand, rendering all the assistance possible.  A new building, some four feet distance from ``The Shades,'' caught fire several times; but, through the perseverance of Robert A. Parker, Dave Whaling and Tom Smith, (the owner of the property), the new building, was saved: but ``The Shades'' was entirely destroyed.  The men who were so persevering in saving the new building had their hair singed and the coats on their backs were burned.  The men went so far as to cover themselves with wet blankets, cutting holes in the blankets to enable them to see, while they threw water on the burning building.  When the building was out of danger three loud and hearty cheers were given for ``the brave firemen.'' It was only a few days after the fire, when the rebuilding of ``The Shades'' was commenced and when completed, it was a much finer building than the one previous to the fire.  In the winter of '48, most of the persons who had gone to the mines, returned to the city, and by the latter part of November there were over one hundred and sixty persons in the hotel.  Bennett's house was also crowded; so much so, that the bowling alley's were used as sleeping apartments.  We had to put two beds or more in a room; and, as we rented the rooms for twenty dollars per week, it made no difference to us, how many slept in them.  Those who gambled, would use the beds during the day, and others would occupy them at night, so they were well taken up, night and day.  I will here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>It sounds almost incredible now, the many stories that are told of the manner in which persons would waste the gold dust in those early times; but it was the truth, nevertheless.  In front of Mr. Howard's store, on Montgomery street, from the sweepings of the floor a man got over fifty dollars in one day.  Another instance occurred in the City Hotel bar-room.  The man who did the sweeping would save the sweepings in a barrel, until full; and on washing it out he obtained over two hundred dollars in gold dust.</P>
157.sgm:<P>In 1849, General Lane arrived on his way to Oregon, where he was appointed Governor.  On his arrival, John Owens and Salem Woodsworth, who were well acquainted with him, invited him to dinner and told him to make himself at home at the hotel during his stay in the city.  At this time, a club had been formed, and no persons could be elected without the consent of a majority of the members.  The names of the members were as follows: William D. M. Howard, Captain Joseph Folsom, Edward Harrison, Robert A. Parker, James Layton, Salem Woodsworth, John Owens, George McDougal, Benjamin Lippincott, Mr. Stone, Sam. Haight.  Dick Ciscel and William McDonald.  Each day at the table there were from ten to a dozen invited guests.  At this time labor was so high and provisions so difficult to obtain, that it was impossible to board them at any price.  Each week there was a new <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>As we have been writing of the living, I think I will now devote a short space to those who have departed and gone to their long home: In the latter part of the year 1847, Mr. Douglas Factor, in the Hudson Bay Company and Mr. David McLaughlin arrived in a brig from Oregon, for the purpose of settling up all their business in California.  They had a house and four fifty vara lots, located on what are now called Montgomery, Sacramento and Clay streets.  The house was occupied at that time by Mrs. Ray, (a sister of David McLaughlin), and Mr. Alexander Fobes.  This property was sold to Frank Mellis and Mr. William M. D. Howard.  After the settlement of their business, they removed the remains of Mr. Ray, who had been buried on their property; and in company with Mrs. Ray and family went to Oregon.  The first Protestant who died in this city, that I remember, was a young man, by the name of Richardson, who was clerking for Mr. Howard.  He was a native of Boston.  At the time of his death there was no public burying ground; consequently, Robert A. Parker allowed him to be buried on a fifty vara lot, which he owned at North Beach.  This lot was afterwards used as a public cemetery.  The next person that died, was a man by the name of Adams, who boarded at the hotel.  He came to this city from Valparaiso.  He had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>There are many persons who claim to have started the first brewery in this city; but Francis G. Owen is the only one who can claim that honor.  He built, what would be called now a small brewery, on the corner of Pacific and Dupont streets.  Mr. Owens arrived in this country in 1845.  He came to Yerba Buena, and purchased a fifty vara lot, and then returned to Sutter's Fort and remained their until the early part of 1846.  He came from the same town as Captain Sutter, and brought him news of his wife and family.  Captain Sutter sent for his family, and they arrived in this country in the year 1850.  Owens left this country for his native place, in 1852, and I have been informed, that soon after his arrival at home he died.  He built, while here, an adobe house, on a fifty vara lot, that was then called ``The Points.'' This property was sold in '47, to Alfred J. Ellis.  This was the property where the Russian sailor lost his life in the well.</P>
157.sgm:<P>The first pioneer hall in the city, was on the lot, corner of Washington and Kearny streets.  It was on the second floor of the Belle Union Theatre building.  The pioneers rented it from Richard Ross.  The first miners bank that was started in this city, was in the early part of 1849, over a house known as ``The Verandah'' The proprietor of the house was Joseph Clemens, who is now a Searcher of Records in this city.  At ``The Verandah'' there was a man employed at fifty dollars per night, who played at one time five different musical instruments.  He was a complete band by himself.  In '49, Dave Broderick and Fred.  Kohler arrived.  They carried on an assayers office, which was the first one started here.  The office and works were on Clay street, opposite Portsmouth Square, in one of the wings of the City Hotel building; they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>In the year of 1849, there was a party undertook to take charge of the city, and demanded from T. M. Leavensworth, then Alcalda, all books and documents that belonged to the city; but Leavensworth refused to deliver them up, until there was another person elected by order of the Governor to supply his place; but Lieutenant Norton was at the head of the party, and with several men from his company, went to the Alcalda's office and took possession of all the effects contained in the office, and removed books and documents to the school-house at Portsmouth Square; and for a short time Lieutenant Norton and Peer Lee did all the business of the office.  But it was only for a few days; as the citizens demanded them to return all books and documents to Leavensworth, at the Alcalda's office.  There was one book containing a record of deeds missing, which has never been heard from, to my knowledge, at least.  One evening the party with fife and drum went to Leavensworth's office with a rope, with the full intention of hanging him, if they could get hold of him.  I found out by one of the party what they intended to do; and when I ascertained that their intentions were of so serious a nature, I went out of the back door of the hotel, locked the front door, and got Leavensworth in the hotel.  I then went around and asked them what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>At this time there were very few persons living in the city, and the Mexicans who were here, was so scared, that they were afraid to protect themselves.  Some few days after this, the Hounds made a demand for money from the Mexicans, again; and when they would not pay them anything, they commenced shooting, and two Mexicans were badly wounded.  John McDougal, who saw the transaction, called on some person, who was standing by for assistance, and he made two prisoners.  The Hounds found out that McDougal meant business, so they made themselves scarce, and on the next day, a vigilance committee was formed, for the protection of the city, and all who could be found belonging to the Hounds were arrested and brought to trial before Senators' Gwin, Geary and T. M. Leavensworth.  Those who were not caught left the city.  Mr. McDougal was afterwards Governor of the State of California.</P>
157.sgm:<P>The Parker House was progressing rapidly, as we employed all the carpenters we could possibly get, and we had every hope of getting the offices in the front part ready for occupancy, as they were all spoken for.  The doors and windows were all made and fitted, and the painter was ready to put in the window glass, when to our great surprise we found out that all the glass was too small and we could not obtain any glass in the city large enough.  We were puzzled to know what to do.  We first thought of making the sash over to fit the glass; but that would be a great expense; so we came to the conclusion that we would send by Captain Newell to the Islands for glass.  He made a fast trip and returned to San Francisco again in thirty-six days.  The first room finished, was an office for H. M. Naglee and Richard Sinton.  These gentlemen carried on an exchange business and land office.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>By every vessel that left for Oregon I would send for such articles as butter, onions, pickled tripe, hams, bacon, eggs or anything I could obtain in the way of provisions in the Oregon market.  Fresh meats, such as beef and mutton were very reasonable, much cheaper than they are now; pork was very dear.  I will name the highest prices I had to pay at that time when purchasing provisions in the city: onions were one dollar per pound; potatoes, seventy five cents per pound; fresh butter, one dollar and fifty cents per pound; eggs, I once paid nine dollars a dozen for, but the common price was six dollars per dozen; for a small roasting pig, I twice paid fifteen dollars; the common price was ten dollars.  An old gentleman by the name of Herman, supplied the hotel with vegetables, such as lettuce, cabbage, turnips, radishes, carrots and other small articles for the use of the table.  These he brought daily; I had to pay him from fifteen to twenty dollars per day.  Such articles as tea, coffee, sugar, spices, etc., were very reasonable, and there were plenty in the market.  Another item of considerable expense to me, was the hiring of two hunters and a whale boat to go off up the creeks after game; they would make two trips per week, and were usually very successful.  If I had been compelled to purchase in this city every thing I needed in the way of provisions for the table, I would have lost every day, at least, one hundred dollars.  Had it not been for the large amount of wine that was generally consumed at the dinner-table, I could never have stood the loses made in the boarding department.  Many times it has taken over a thousand dollars worth of wine for one dinner-table; but when I obtained my provisions from Oregon it would be less by one-half than the California prices.</P>
157.sgm:<P>At the opening of the Parker House, there was a grand ball given, followed by a bountiful supper, which was free to all.  In expectation of this event, I had been saving a great many delicacies, which could not be obtained except from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
157.sgm:<P>In the year of 1849, a man arrived here, by the name of Samuel Dennison, who rented from Parker a piece of land, on which he built a gambling saloon, and gave it the name of the ``Dennison House.'' In the latter part of '49 he sold out to Thomas Bartell, a Southerner.  On the same land now stands the Union Hotel.  As we have been mentioning some of the first things which happened in San Francisco, under the American Flag, I will now give an account of the first vessel burned in this harbor: One Sunday morning, an English vessel, which had arrived two days previous, loaded with coal, took fire, and the entire ship with its cargo was destroyed.  At one time there was a large number of vessels in the harbor.  But the gold fever raged to such an extent that it was next to impossible to keep sailors aboard the vessels, as they would almost universally run away to the mines.  I remember one instance well.  The captain of a Boston ship arrived here in the early part of '49.  He had intended to go from here to China, but he found out that the wages of sailors would amount to more than the whole freight of the cargo would come too.  The sailors in the coasting trade would receive from two hundred to two hundred and fifty dollars per month, and were very hard to get even at those figures.  The above named captain obtained instructions from Boston to bring the vessel home at any cost, and when he left this port, he observed, that there was not a man on board, who did not receive double the amount in wages that he did; I think the captain's name was Avery.  A gentleman arrived in the above named vessel from Boston, by the name of Stone, who brought to this country a large amount of goods and liquors.  He came here principally for his health; he left here for Sacramento, but I never could find out what became of him.  Before the captain left port, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>I have often heard it remarked. ``If I had come to California in early days, I would have been worth millions.''  The persons who were here in early days, and those who came when gold was first discovered, were a different class of people altogether from those of the present day.  Money was of little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>There is one more thing I will write about, that I suppose very few will believe to be possible, judging by the price property is valued at now.  In the year of 1849, I rented to T. M. Leavensworth, two rooms in the City Hotel, facing Portsmouth Square, for two hundred and fifty dollars per month.  Leavensworth paid me the first four months in cash; for three months after that, he could not pay me, as there was no money in the treasury; and the only alternative I had, was to take city property, such as fifty and one hundred vara lots in payment.  I had to pay him for fifty vara lots, twelve dollars and a half; and for one hundred vara lots, twenty-five dollars.  He would also charge me two dollars and a half on each lot, for recording and other expenses.  For a month or so this did very well, as I got lots in that way for many of my friends; some of the property I disposed of at first cost; but I gave most of the lots away for presents.  I could name many persons to whom I gave, as presents, fifty and a hundred vara lots, that would now be a little fortune.</P>
157.sgm:<P>After Jasper O'Farrell had made his survey of the city of San Francisco, in the latter part of November, 1847, the Treasury was short of cash, and it was proposed to sell some city lots by auction, to raise money to pay the debts of the city.  George Hyde was then Alcalda, and he could only dispose of a few at the city's price, namely: twelve dollars and a half for fifty vara lots, and twenty-five dollars for one hundred vara lots, also, expenses for making deeds and recording; and there were but very few they could sell even at the above named <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>The first person that started a general bakery business, was a German, by the name of Denikie.  Messrs. Rose and Reynolds arrived on the Londreser, from Napa, and brought with them to the city, very near four tons of flour.  This was a larger amount than they usually carried, and it was difficult to dispose of it.  What they could not sell, they left with me to sell for cash.  There were nearly three tons I sold to Denikie for one dollar and sixty cents per robe.  When he came to pay for the flour, he was fifty dollars short, and as I was not allowed to trust, he proposed for me to make the amount good and he would pay me in bread, and the interest was to be two loaves more on each dollars' worth.  He paid me in bread all but fourteen dollars.  One night he got to gambling and lost all he had.  He sold out his bakery, intending to leave the city, in which case those to whom he was indebted would have had to get their pay the best way they could.  I went after Denikie for the payment of the balance due me on the flour; but was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>I have written before of Parker's generosity of heart, in helping others.  He would very often get into trouble by so doing in regard to money matters; but, notwithstanding this fact, he might have got safely out, if it had not been that he had to pay such high interest on money; I helped him all I possibly could.  He was then in debt to me over eighty thousand dollars, and other debts I took the responsibility of paying, namely: a mortgage on his half of the property, for thirty thousand dollars; another on Alexander G. Able; one on T. M. Leavensworth, and two others, for which Parker gave me a lease on his half of the Parker House and the Dennison House, where now stands the Union Hotel.  The above facts can be seen on the records of the city.  All the money I made in the City Hotel I put in the Parker House, and it was very little I got out of it.  In September. '49, I made a bargain with Parker for his half of the Parker House.  James Frann was employed to settle up the accounts; but Parker's half was mortgaged to such an extent, that I could do nothing with it.  I gave Wright and Haight a lease of the whole concern.  They were to pay ten thousand dollars per month and one-half the profits of the hotel.  The business was so mixed that I got out the best way I could, George McDougal and Hart bought out my interest.</P>
157.sgm:<P>In the latter part of December, '49, the Dennison House got on fire, also the Parker House and Aldarado, and everything <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>Parties residing in the city in 1848, who were thought to be persons of good judgment, whose opinion was often taken in regard to the value of city property, and who bought and sold all city lots, were: Colonel I. D. Stevenson, Samuel Haight, Purser Price, George McDougal, Purser Whatmore, Dr. Jones, Benjamin Lippencott, Robert A. Parker, Robert T. Ridley.  Those that kept their property and obtained all they could were: Captain Folsom, Mr. Lick and Captain Leidsoff.</P>
157.sgm:<P>I have already made mention of two white women, who were residents of the city in the latter part of 1845.  I will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>In the 1847 and '48, there were several other women, who arrived in the city, some by water and some overland.  I will first mention those who arrived by water: Mrs. Poet and two daughters, Mrs. Dring and daughter, Mrs. Gillespie, Mrs. Harris, Mrs. Merrill and two daughters, Mrs. Russ and two daughters, Mrs. Brown and daughter, Mrs. Tittle and daughter Mrs. King, Mrs. Ellis and Mrs. Hall; most of these arrived in Stevenson's Regiment.  The others who came overland, were:  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>The following will show the form of passport required at this time.  The bills annexed give one a good idea of what it cost to live, and the note, a fair sample of the way business was done.  In each case I have maintained the original copies.</P>
157.sgm:<P>San Francisco, January 20th, 1846.<LB>BRITISH CONSULATE:--The undersigned, Consul of Her Majesty, (Britanica) for the State of California.  I grant free passport to the British subject, Mr. John H. Brown, that he may remain in this place; and in its virtue may secure its naturalization papers.</P>
157.sgm:<P>I beg the authorities, to grant him every courtesy and facilities in his avocations.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Sign,</P>
157.sgm:<P>D. A. FORBES, Consul.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Yerba Buena, 1846.<LB>Received of John H. Brown, for a keg of butter, one hundred and three pounds, the sum of one hundred and thirty-five dollars.</P>
157.sgm:<P>$135.00.<HSEP>B. SIMMONS.</P>
157.sgm:<P>San Francisco, April 30th,1849.<LB>Borrowed and received of J. H. Brown, twenty-eight hundred and  fifty-nine dollars and twenty cents, which I promise to pay on demand.</P>
157.sgm:<P>$2859.20.<HSEP>ROBERT A. PARKER,<LB><HSEP>per JAMES C. LEIGHTON.</P>
157.sgm:<P>January 6th.<HSEP>1 Quarter Beef,<HSEP>$8.00<LB><HSEP>20 lb Pork,<HSEP>5.00<LB><HSEP>1 Robe Onions,  <HSEP>6.00<LB>January 7th.<HSEP>1 Quarter Beef,<HSEP>8.00<LB><HSEP>$27.00.<LB>Received payment,<HSEP>G. W. EGLESON &amp; Co.,<LB><HSEP>By W. F. BRITTON.</P>
157.sgm:<P><HSEP>San Francisco, March 17th, 1849.<LB>MR. BROWN,<LB><HSEP>Bought of Wright &amp; Owen<LB><HSEP>55 lb lard,<HSEP>@<HSEP>40 cts.,<HSEP> $22.00<LB>Received payment,<HSEP>T. B. CLEMENTS,<LB><HSEP>for WRIGHT &amp; OWEN.</P>
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157.sgm:<BACK><DIV><HEAD>DESCRIPTION OF THE ANNEXED MAP.</HEAD>
157.sgm:<P>No.1a.  Four fifty vara lots: facing Montgomery street, one hundred vara; on Clay street, one hundred vara; on Sacramento street one hundred vara.  On this property was built by Jacob P. Lease, a large two-story frame building, also, an adobe ware-house.  The same property was sold to the Hudson Bay Company for a store-house and private dwelling.  The Hudson Bay Company sold it to Howard and Mellis; who also carried on a store.  This same building in 1850 was made into a hotel, called the ``United States.''</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 2a.  A ship's cabin, belonging to Nathan Spear, also a house, belonging to William C. Hinckley.  This was a fifty vara lot, owned by the above named.  This house of Hinckley's in 1846, was used for a short time by Washington A. Bartlett, as Alcalda's office, afterwards used by Frank Ward, as a store for general merchandise.  In '48 Ward and Smith kept the same store as partners.  In '47 Davis kept a store in the ship's cabin.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 3a.  Two fifty vara lots, owned by Captain Vioght, on which was the Billiard-room and Saloon, kept by Ridley, who, in 1846, sold out to Brown.  In September, 1846, Brown opened a restaurant in this building, which he bought of Ridley, he also started a regular hotel, which was the first one opened in the city.  The name was the ``Portsmouth House,'' in which afterwards a store was kept by Finley Johnson and Austin, of Baltimore.</P>
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157.sgm:<P>No. 4a.  Two fifty vara lots, the property of John C. Davis, on Kearny and Washington streets.  A part of a fifty vara lot, on Kearny street was sold in 1846, to Dr. Powell.  The balance of the property in 1849, was leased for building purposes.  On the corner of Washington and Kearny streets was a gambling saloon, known as the ``Verandah.'' Over the saloon was the first Miners' bank.  On Washington street was Smiley's hardware store.  The next was a liquor and gambling saloon.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 5a.  A fifty vara lot, belonging to Pedro Sherback, with a small frame house, used for a family residence.  Half of this lot was sold to Gleason and Southard; they sold to Robert A. Parker.  A small piece was sold, fronting on Kearny street, to Benjamin Lippencott, who also sold it to Parker.  The corner of Washington and Kearny streets was sold to the Eldorado men.  The balance was sold some time after, with the frame building.  On the fifty vara lot was the Eldorado, the Parker House, the Dennison House, the Jenny Lind Theatre, the Union Hotel, and, what is now known as the Old City Hall.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 6a.  Two fifty vara lots, owned by Jack Fuller.  He always claimed four.  On this property were two small frame houses and an adobe bake oven.  In one of these houses Captain Leidsoff kept a store.  The other was used as a private dwelling.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 7a.  One fifty vara lot, the private residence of Jesus Noe, also used as Alcalda's office, under the Mexican Government.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 8a.  A fifty vara lot, the property of Gustave Andrews, of Salem, Mass., a house-carpenter.  The premises were used as a private dwelling.  In this house Nathan Spear died.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 9a.  A fifty vara lot, the property in '45 of the wife of George Davis, who had baked hard bread at Sutter's Fort.  This land was sold the same year, to John Finch, who built, in 1845, a blacksmith's shop and liquor saloon.  In 1847, he built a store for a cigar-maker, named Dougherty, who was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>No. 10a.  A fifty vara lot, with a small frame building; the property in '45 of Mr. Dopkin, a German by birth, a tailor by trade.  He traded his property to Andrew Hepner, for a garden and house, at Mission Dolores.  Hepner left the city in 1846, for Sonoma, where he obtained a ranch as payment, for teaching music to General Vallejo's family.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 11a.  A fifty vara lot, owned by John Cooper, (better known as ``Jack the soldier'') on which was a small frame house.  In this house the negotiation was made in 1848 for Goat Island.  Many other negotiations for other property was made here after the hoisting of the American Flag in 1848.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 12a.  A fifty vara lot, the property of Stephen Smith, of Bodego, containing a good frame house; which was the residence of Sam Brannan for over a year.  In front were four fifty vara lots; this was known as the Public Square.  On this lot, in '45, there was a long adobe building.  The adobe building was close to Washington street.  On the other corner, facing Clay street, was a frame building.  It was used as a school-house in 1847.  Mr. Marston was the school teacher.  This school-house was afterwards used for the court-house and for public elections, in '49, when T. M. Leavensworth was elected.  In '49 it was used by Mallaka Fallon, as a place in which to keep prisoners.  It was, also, used in '49 for church purposes.  These houses have since been removed, but the map will show where they were originally located.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 13a.  Four fifty vara lots, the property of John Cooper and brother, of Monterey.  This property contained a small dilapidated frame house, used as the private residence of Mr. Glover, who was the right hand man of Sam Brannan, until he went to Salt Lake.</P>
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157.sgm:<P>No. 14a.  A fifty vara lot, with a large adobe house, the property of Captain Fisher and McKinley.  In the early part of 1846, this building was occupied by Josiah Belding, now living in San Jose.  The building was used as a dry goods store.  At the arrival of the Mormons, in the month of July 1846, it was rented by them.  In 1847, it was rented by Robert A. Parker; in 1848, it was rented by Captain Dring, an Englishman as a store, and for a family residence.  It was also used for a short time, as Alcalda's office, by Washington A. Bartlett.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No 15a.  A fifty vara lot, the property of Mr. Kline, a German by birth, who had a small building, a part of which was used as a work shop.  Kline was a locksmith by trade; he made spurs and bridlebits for the Californians, by which he accumulated considerable money.  He left California for Germany in the latter part of 1847; but, returned in 1851, and opened a gun and locksmith shop on Kearny street, near Bush.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 16a.  A fifty vara lot, the property of John Evans, an Italian by birth.  On which was a small house.  in which he, himself lived.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 17a.  A fifty vara lot, containing a small adobe house and out buildings.  This property, in 1847, was used as a tannery, by an Englishman, by the name of Richard Kirby.  I believe this to be the first tannery in this city.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 18b.  A fifty vara lot, the property of Robert T. Ridley, who resided on it with his family, in the latter part of 1846.  This property was sold to Captain Leidsoff, in 1847, for two thousand dollars.  On this land now stands the Stevenson House.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 19b.  A fifty vara lot, the property of Francisco Sanchez; a very small frame house, occupied in 1846 by Henry Harris and family.  The former was a house-carpenter.  He arrived here on the ship ``Brooklyn.''</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 20b.  A fifty vara lot, the property of William A. Leidsoff.  The frontage of this house was one hundred and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>No. 21b.  A fifty vara lot, with a small adobe house, the whole being the property of Captain Voiget, and used as a family residence by him.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 22b.  A fifty vara lot, the property of Mr. Bennett.  This house was opened in the early part of '46.  In the early part of 1847, a bowling alley was built on the same lot.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 23b.  A fifty vara lot, containing two frame buildings on Sacramento street, finished in the early part of '48.  The same year one house was leased to Hiram Grimes, afterwards used as Peachy and Billings office.  I think the same building is now standing.  The property belonged to William A. Leidsoff.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 24b.  A fifty vara lot, the property of John Patey; a large adobe building.  This property was finished in 1848 and occupied by Starky &amp; Co., from the Islands.  Mr. Falkner, head clerk; Mr. White, porter.  After they left, one part of it was used as a gambling house, the other for the post-office.  In the upper part was the court house.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 25c.  A small frame house, the property of William Davis, where T. M. Leavensworth kept the first drug store in 1847.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 26c.  The property of General Vallejo, and containing only adobe walls, afterwards divided into building lots, and sold at auction.  Borgenes banking house was on the corner, while the Delmonico's restaurant faced on Montgomery street, where now stands the Montgomery Bath House and Barber Shop, also, Cronon and Markley's clothing store.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 27c.  A fifty vara lot, the property of Rose and Reynolds.  On this land there was a frame store, built by Alfred J.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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157.sgm:<P>No. 28c.  The property of Dr. Townsend.  No improvments.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 29 and 30c.  Granted to two Mexicans, living in Sonoma.  One lot, with adobe walls, which was fitted up in 1847 by Parker and Egleson, for a butcher shop and slaughter house.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 31c.  Jesus Noe, better known as Lafan's building, was called the Portsmouth House, also, used for a post-office.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 32c.  Merrimontes, a small frame building sold to Leidsoff.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 33.  Property of William Leidsoff.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 34.  Owned by Mrs. Montgomery.  A small house was built on this property in 1847.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 35c.  Four fifty vara lots, the property of Rose and Reynolds, a small piece of which was sold in 1847 to Mr. Hall and wife, who built a small cottage on it for a family residence.  The former was a native of Bath., England, and came here from Australia, where he returned again after the gold discovery, to look after a large amount of property, which he owned there.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 36c.  A fifty vara lot, owned by Tom Smith, the shoemaker, (who was also a sailor-catcher), and John Cousins, a butcher by trade, both Englishman, and John Aleck, a German and shoemaker by trade.  This property was sold to Alexander Patterson and William Upham, in 1849.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 37c.  This property belonged to Francis G. Owen, who built on it the first brewery.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 38c.  The property of Edward Harrison, containing four small cottage houses.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 39c.  The property of George Kittleman, on which a tavern, called the Rising Sun was located.</P>
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157.sgm:<P>No. 40c.  Owned by John Searine, who built a small house on it for the use of his family.</P>
157.sgm:<P>No. 41.  A log house, built by the United States Government in the year 1846, mounted by a heavy gun, from the sloop of war Portsmouth, afterwards used for a prison.</P>
157.sgm:<P>On the vacant lot on the map between 7a and 20b a drug store was built in 1848, also a frame building by George Hyde, who was Alcalda at this time.</P>
157.sgm:<P>Robert A. Parker moved in his new store, a two-story building on Clay street, in the month of March, 1848.  On the same lot, where the Old Mill House stood.  In '49 Parker left and it was occupied by James Riddle, as an auctioneers's store.  A man by the name of Bucklow, in 1848 built a dwelling and store on a piece of land, known as the Point.  and carried on there the watch-making business.  The last fifty vara lot, granted under the Mexican Government, was in favor of Francisco Gursha, a Mexican.  He sold to Robert T. Ridley.  The latter sold it to John C. Davis, for fifty dollars, with which to pay a debt. It was afterwards purchased by a person by the name of Knight.  This lot was opposite what is now known as the Stevenson House, the largest part of which was in the water.</P>
157.sgm:<P>There were many other lots granted that were fenced in, which I have not made mention of, as they were of no importance.  After the American Flag was hoisted, the town was staked off, and some lots were claimed by half a dozen persons.  The water lots were sold at auction, by order of Commodore Stockton, and those having property not fenced in were allowed a further time to comply with the laws.  In 1848 many buildings were underway, several were on Powell street, where Mr. Merrill owned a large boarding house, and Mr. Charles Ross a private dwelling, while George Eagleson, Mr. Jackson Greyson and many others owned property in the same part of town on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-159</TITLE>
159.sgm:<TITLE>Ramblings in California; containing a description of the country, life at the mines, state of society, &amp;c. Interspersed with characteristic anecdotes, and sketches from life, being the five years' experience of a gold digger.  By Pringle Shaw: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
159.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
159.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
159.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
159.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
159.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
159.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
159.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc01-819</LCCN>
159.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
159.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
159.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>RAMBLINGS</P>
159.sgm:<P>IN</P>
159.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>RAMBLINGS</P>
159.sgm:<P>IN</P>
159.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA;</P>
159.sgm:<P>CONTAINING</P>
159.sgm:<P>A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY, LIFE AT THE MINES,</P>
159.sgm:<P>STATE OF SOCIETY, &amp;c.</P>
159.sgm:<P>INTERSPERSED WITH</P>
159.sgm:<P>CHARACTERISTIC ANECDOTES,</P>
159.sgm:<P>AND SKETCHES FROM LIFE,</P>
159.sgm:<P>BEING THE FIVE YEARS EXPERIENCE OF A GOLD DIGGER.</P>
159.sgm:<P>BY</P>
159.sgm:<P>PRINGLE SHAW.</P>
159.sgm:<P>TORONTO:</P>
159.sgm:<P>JAMES BAIN, 37 KING STREET EAST.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>TORONTO:</P>
159.sgm:<P>JOHN BLACKBURN, PRINTER,</P>
159.sgm:<P>63 YONGE STREET.</P>
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159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>IN the good old times, that is before a voyage round the world was a mere trip of pleasure, the adventurous traveller who then gave his experience of foreign lands, was a rarity, and his work might well serve as good authority for half a century to come; and indeed, in such sleepy times, when a hundred years performed but little change on a country or its people, the audacious scribbler who added another volume of travels, on the same ground, might well be punished by neglect, for his impertinent repetition of the threadbare theme.  But now, great portion of the world are in a ``fast'' age, and in them more changes occur in twelve months, than in others in twice the number of years; but in none that ever existed, has the hand of civilised man performed so much, in as short a space of time, as it has within the bounds of this mysterious land.</P>
159.sgm:<P>This must be my best excuse, for attempting to add a new leaf to the many already published on California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The three first parts contain within a small space, I trust, an accurate description of the face of the country, its resources, capital, and labor, with sketches of its people, their manners, customs, and politics.  The last part is devoted exclusively to illustrations of character, for which no country offers a better field.</P>
159.sgm:<P>My business in California, was a gold speculation; and there, on the banks of the Yellow Yuba, and many other streams, I dug deep holes, and made--not exactly my <HI REND="italics">pile</HI>
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159.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>PART I.<LB><HSEP>PAGE.<LB>THE COUNTRY AND HER SOVEREIGNS<HSEP> 9<LB>PART II.<LB>THE MINES<HSEP>43<LB>PART III.<LB>FACE OF THE COUNTRY, AGRICULTURE, AND LABOR<HSEP>79<LB>PART IV.<LB>ANECDOTES AND SKETCHES FROM LIFE<HSEP>131<LB>HOW I JUMPED A CLAIM<HSEP>131<LB>A FIELD OFFICER<HSEP>137<LB>THE SPECULATOR<HSEP>142<LB>A TRIP TO THE SOUTHERN MINES<HSEP>149<LB>AN ORATION<HSEP>172<LB>THE SURGEON'S RIDE<HSEP>177<LB>JOE<HSEP>181<LB>THE AUCTIONEER<HSEP>184<LB>TOBIN<HSEP>190<LB>THE VOYAGE<HSEP>199<LB>THE SALTER<HSEP>216<LB>SEBASTOPOL IS TAKEN<HSEP>222<LB>WAR IN CHINA<HSEP>227<LB>THE CONCLUSION<HSEP>229</P>
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159.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA.<LB>PART I.<LB>THE COUNTRY AND HER SOVEREIGNS.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>IT comes not, properly, within the limits of these sketches, to dwell upon the wonders of that half-way land--the Isthmus of Panama--whose torrid scenes, so startling, novel, and gorgeous, so utterly at variance with the panorama of his native land, enchain at once the imagination of the fresh voyager from the temperate zone, and leave an impression that after years can hardly erase.  These have long since been delineated by able and truthful pens; though much still remains unsaid of Chagres, its harbor, and its people, its densely wooded hills, and dismal feverish vallies, the grim dismantled fortress of San Lorenzo, rising in solemn, though burlesque majesty, as the protector of the mongrel native population at its base,--of the white man's shelly camp right opposite, sustained in those by-gone days by the Californian emigration, and the indiscriminate abode or shelter of speculators, blacklegs and boatmen,--of native beggars, with leprous skins and jiggery feet,--of the long, tedious row, up the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:dark and sluggish stream, propelled reluctantly by republican negroes, howling a monotonous, heart-breaking ditty,--and that an established one--varied only by uncouth <HI REND="italics">carrajos</HI>
159.sgm: when impeded in their progress by the acres of empty claret and porter bottles, left as monuments of our thirsty predecessors,--of parrots and parroquettes, screaming at each other from their leafy screens, varied by the unearthly howl of the baboon, and the chattering of legions of man's smaller imitators,--of the red sun blazing in the zenith, while not a zephyr's pinion stirs amidst the grossly green vegetation of the impenetrable forest,--of the scrubby minor villages, and the palpable air of inertia visible in all things; the visible proof of imbecile precocity in a people, the victims of a caricature commonwealth, totally unadapted to their antecedents, or their present ability, and indeed we might safely add, their race, which is just now a disagreeable medley of red, black, and dirty white,--of the hasty stay amid the bamboo huts of Gorgona, where a ``five'' could scarcely procure a meagre lunch of mouldy biscuit and jerked beef,--of the various disasters liable to novices on mule-back, on the primitive mountain track leading to the western ocean, and at last the long looked for walled city of Panama, where the people sport broad sombreros and lounge the livelong day on hammocks of painted grass,--where doors and windows are dispensed with and ventilation is a desideratum,--where the strictured streets are crowded by Yankees and Europeans, eager to obtain an exodus,--where church bells ring all day and mosquitos sing all night,--where soldiers walk barefooted and sentries stand guard with lockless muskets,--where beef is retailed by the yard, and calico by the pound,--where tables are of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>These sights and sounds are even now fast fading before another, I may not say a better era; and many an interesting relic of Panama's acadian days must die unnoted through the continued stream of strangers, and the unwelcome innovation of the iron horse.  I too must bid adieu to it, and transport my reader at once through the peaceful waves of the Pacific, and safely land him on the shores of California, where a new panorama, unexampled in history, soon obliterates all the minor incidents of the journey.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Perhaps no country, in her dawning efforts of existence, ever more suddenly or successfully leaped into life, or started on a more propitious career, than California; predestined, as she certainly seems to be, with her twin sister Australia, to wake to life and develop the long slumbering energies of a hemisphere, every way capable of supporting their millions of intelligent and taught beings.  The full blaze of the nineteenth century has shed its clear light upon her primary exertions; the lustre of improved science is able and willing to guide her every power of invention or appropriation, while no antiquated prejudice of political or religious bigotry, or ancient animosity of local classes need be any obstacle in her onward course.  Every nation, not only of Christendom, but we may say the universe, has tendered its quota of youth, determination and talent; her mineral, agricultural and commercial attributes stand unrivalled, and her prominent position on the map as an invincible operator for good or evil on the Pacific's countless legions of barbaric tribes, gives her an influence, which if rightly appropriated, may allow her supremacy for centuries to come.  All these have, of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>How far her adopted sons have profited by the mother's gifts, or how far her future career is likely to accord with the first stimulus, is a problem difficult of solution, and one which I have neither the means or the patience to analyse, having quite sufficient facts to produce for inspection, and shall leave the elucidations of causes and effects to the occupation of those who delight to rove in the subtler fields of metaphysical uncertainty.  Certain it is her present possession of every thing that voluptuaries term life's luxuries, already place her years in the van of states and colonies quadruple her age, and long pointed to as wonders of success.  Works of great magnitude are here undertaken, performed, and in successful operation, in less time than the preliminaries would have been entered into, in almost any other land.  Without hyperbole, to say, is here, to do; and great indeed must be the obstacle that prevents completion, when once entered upon.  But little useless ornament adorns anything, be it a public work or a mere private venture, utility being the grand and real object, universally; for money, labor and time are of too essential value, to be expended for mere freaks of fancy, or in pleasing the eye of the connoisseur.</P>
159.sgm:<P>This latter circumstance will partly account for the railroad speed with which towns and villages have sprung up in heretofore solitary places, hoary rivers turned aside from their channels, and serviceable waggon roads graded through the wilderness, almost within sound of the echoing footsteps of the pioneers.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>The state of the Press may serve as a valuable criterion to typify the prosperity and general tastes of the people in most countries--where such a thing exists--and as the California newspapers, in numerical value, in comparison to the population, are far ahead of all other States, so are they in advance of the chief part in taste, dignity and judgment.  Many, to be sure, are puerile and time-serving trash, made up of slang and childish bravado, or with profuse selections from the ``yaller kivered'' books of the Ned Buntline school, originally manufactured to suit the tastes and capacities of the factory girls, or the ``able to read folks'' that form such an important item in the New England census.  But as many incubi of the same genus have long disgraced the older States--elbow room becoming scarce--some have no doubt, to the superlative delight of their more intelligent readers, moved their location to the Pacific shore, and inflicted the curse of their presence on the unfortunate gold seekers.  But it is a cross they are bound to endure, and it will no doubt be mitigated in Heaven's own good time.  San Francisco, at the present time, issues more than thirty; most of them too, are conducted by talented and discerning men, and more than one, indeed, resemble in their editorials, the calm dignity and unflinching independence of such a paper as the <HI REND="italics">London Times</HI>
159.sgm:, than could be expected in an American journal, devoted, as they too commonly are, to the vilest purposes of party, and bound in all things to the beck of the highest bidder.  But here, taste and education exist in a very large proportion, and as often are the property of moleskin as of broadcloth; in consequence a proper reward has before been given editors of a superior tone, who could thus live by the legitimate proceeds of their intellectual labor, without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>One great feeder to the boasting habit, so ridiculously prevalent even among the most intelligent and unprejudiced Americans, and which sadly tarnishes the lustre of their most respectable achievements, is the dangerous system in which writers of every political hue seem to accord, in flattering the national vanity, already developed quite sufficiently for a proper attachment to the fatherland, without this disgusting artificial stimulus.  It seems, indeed, an incontrovertible axiom, with these caterers of the mind, that the citizens of this great republic, as a body politic--like an autocrat--can do no wrong; overlooking the fact, that should the amiable majority unhappily belie this conceded point, the much greater convenience of decapitating a solitary monster, to that of a multitude.  Fenimore Cooper, to whom Americans are so much indebted for proving to the world that an American book could be readable, was often execrated by their critics, and forced to run a perfect literary gauntlet, besides being debarred from filling offices commensurate with his learning and pure patriotism, because in his works of fiction he could afford to be just to the motives and actions of a noble enemy, without deteriorating from the honor of his native land, and even, at rare intervals, seemed to throw a shadow of a doubt on the immaculacy of the one and indivisible republic.</P>
159.sgm:<P>This unsafe system of flattering self-esteem, is, to be sure, prominently observable in the Pacific Press, and is not to be wondered at, when we know that the elements of society are still strongly tinctured with the ancient leaven; but if any human means, in accordance with their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The total population of the State, has been estimated to range at the present time in the neighborhood of 300,000, allowing for the average increase since the census of '52; the increase mostly accruing from the plains--as the difference between departures and arrivals by the ocean steamers is but trifling, though leaving a small balance--mostly of the fair sex--in favor of the country.  The figures in the census, were, probably, as near the truth as could be expected; but, however, no great dependence can be placed in the official returns, when we consider the extremely free and easy manner, in which a large portion of the people fancy to exist.  Thousands are literally homeless.  Large bodies of miners keep in perpetual motion from bar to gulch, and gulch to canon, in pursuit of variety, or paying dirt.  Others are out careering on the boundless prairies, in pursuit of game, leaving no better half at home, to provide the applicant with the requisite information.  Others, too, are squatted on ranches, far off in secluded vallies, their whereabouts a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Together with this, the proverbial venality and carelessness of the unresponsible, characterless officials, render their report an indifferent foundation, on which to form a judgment; since speculators have often got government reports hashed up for their own peculiar benefit, by means of a timely and liberal bribe.  Foreigners, forming the greater half in the census, were accounted for in a separate column, but were not classified according to their respective nations; such a task would have been far from an easy one, when it is considered the heterogeneous elements to be selected from.  After the citizens, Indians and gentlemen of African origin have alone been honored with separate columns, probably from the extreme facility with which their ancestry can be traced, without impertinent interrogation, from their peculiar features and complexion.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Of the foreigners, British subjects, Germans, Chinese, and Spanish Americans from the different republics, predominate.  The French, also, form an important item in the whole.  The latter adhere much to their own habits and society, and seem stoutly determined against acquiring the English tongue; the chief portion of them seem to have a religious horror to all laborious avocations.  The bulk of them, in consequence, choose towns for their dwelling places, where an existence may be picked up, by ministering to the luxuriant or dissipated habits of others.  At one period the <HI REND="italics">canaille</HI>
159.sgm: had totally monopolized the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The Spanish Americans are held in sovereign contempt by citizens, and are stigmatized with being filthy, ignorant, lazy and vicious.  But this report must be received with great caution on account of the antipathy between the races, engendered by the American war, and constantly fed by little acts of aggression by both parties, and, in truth, it must be owned that the poor Spaniard has been more sinned against than sinning.  Hundreds have been murdered, or ruthlessly driven from their homes, for acts of depredation committed by Americans.  No sooner is a crime committed, than suspicion falls immediately on some unfortunate Mexican or Chileno, and as is often the case, where the people become the executive, the accusers are by no means expected to prove the victim guilty, but he is commanded to establish his innocence, and but little time is allowed for the operation.  They have, in many cases, suffered more persecutions, even than the Chinaman, from the simple cause that his natural haughtiness leads him to resent oppression, and his heart burns for revenge, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:is often fearfully obtained.  They have apparently come, not for the purpose of accumulating wealth, but to live easily and enjoy life.  But when compelled to work, no more skilful or industrious miner can be found than the <HI REND="italics">gambusino</HI>
159.sgm: of Sonora.  When the exchequer is flourishing they dress like hidalgos, and puff their <HI REND="italics">cigaritoes</HI>
159.sgm:, interminably, and are found with tastefully adjusted <HI REND="italics">mantos</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The Germans, as is usual with them in other countries, are industrious, orderly and contented, and appear to be, with the Anglo-Saxon, the only people well adapted to be the progenitors of new nations.  They are, in the main, very unpopular with American and Irish laborers, because no reduction of wages, will tempt them to pluck up a spirit and strike for a higher remuneration.  They seem satisfied also, when in business for themselves, with slow, but constant returns, which, together with the essential gifts of economy and sobriety--except, perhaps, a strong penchant for <HI REND="italics">lager pier</HI>
159.sgm:<P>As for the Italians--who are fortunately not very numerous, they are chiefly of the lowest class, and manage to slide through, in the round of existence, as that classic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>But the most striking feature in all this varied crowd--at least to a freshly arrived stranger--are the Chinese residents.  Every spot where their presence is tolerated seems occupied, and they appear particularly attached to their own select society, for it is an extreme rarity when a solitary specimen is discovered straying from the fold of his brethren.  The emigration was a perfect rush during the years of '51 and '52; for the next two years, most probably from the evil eye with which they were regarded, it sensibly declined, but has again commenced as briskly as ever.  The pictures on the tea-boxes, grotesque as they may appear, are in many respects good resemblances of the original, but it must be owned by their greatest admirers, that the fancy sketches have most wickedly flattered the undeviating coarseness of the celestial countenance.  A dreary sameness exists throughout, both in form and feature, and both experience and perspicacity are requisite in order to point out one <HI REND="italics">John</HI>
159.sgm: from another, with any degree of accuracy.  They have all the same angular features, almond shaped eyes, comical cues and ridiculous inexpressibles or petticoats; the article in question having about an equal claim to either the masculine or feminine tegument.  They don't walk, but contrive to scuttle along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Miners and other parties who have expelled them from various places have received strong censure from some philanthropists for the contempt and often worse usage which ``John''--as the Chinaman is familiarly termed--has received at their hands.  Without attempting to justify these parties in their unwarrantable proceedings, still, if we impartially glance at the subject, we shall find some cause for this apparently cruel animosity.  In the first place, every thing in connection with them, so emphatically marks them out as a <HI REND="italics">peculiar people</HI>
159.sgm:, that they might possibly be imposed upon a novice for specimens of humanity from the Georgium Sidus, had the powers of locomotion already obtained access to that remote planet.  This circumstance is quite sufficient to excite the prejudice of many, for it is a recognized fact, the antagonism almost sure to exist, among the vulgar of any people, to parvenus, and all foreign innovations.  But a more logical and serious objection, was urged by the opponents to Asiatic emigration.  It was publicly known that many of these emigrants--coolies, they were termed--differed in all respects from ordinary arrivals from other countries, who came to enrich themselves individually, and very often to make a permanent settlement, tending to the wealth and power of the state, and in the end, perhaps, to become beneficial citizens.  Such a reciprocity, they contended, could never be hoped for from the Chinese, for--to say nothing of mutual scorn between the two races--the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:principal arrivals in those days, consisted of nominal freemen, but absolute <HI REND="italics">pcons</HI>
159.sgm: in reality, attended by keen-witted masters, who kept them carefully aloof, and assiduously endeavored to prevent all communication with whites, <HI REND="italics">a la Carolina South</HI>
159.sgm:<P>It was asserted that they were originally engaged in their own country for a certain small sum paid in advance, the said sum to be liquidated by a few dollars paid monthly, which was barely sufficient to furnish their wardrobe.  The proceeds of their labor meanwhile being deposited in the hands of the officer in charge.  The disbursements also were light in the extreme, as a cargo of rice generally accompanied them, sufficient for their consumption during their sojourn in the uncongenial land of the ``outside barbarians,'' as they rather unpolitely designate all poor fellows not natives of the celestial empire.  This state of affairs was not merely an evil, but an outrage of serious import, calling loudly for redress, both from its inconsistency with the institutions of a free country, and the profitless drainage of treasure to enrich the coffers of a foreign and barbarous despotism.  As this trade in Coolies has now ceased, together with importing for themselves, merchants are now their best friends, and miners treat them with much less active hostility than formerly--but not less contemptuously--and John has learnt to take all scurrilous jests on his anatomical structure, and all opprobrious epithets, with grinning affability, as the surest method of preserving a sound Chinaman.  In the towns their main occupation consists in washing for the public, and trading with each other, and many of their merchants, short as their residence has been, have already accumulated handsome fortunes.  In the different mining sections, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>They have striven hard, at various intervals, to be allowed the practice of jurisdiction among themselves; but as bad precedent has occurred in Java, and other places, where this privilege was conceded to them by the Dutch, and afterwards retracted, from the abuse of the power thus granted to them, it has been concluded, here, to deal them out law, when required, after the fashion of barbarians.  Expensive as the most frugal fare has always been in this country, the Chinaman contrives to subsist <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:on a very trifling outlay of the circulating medium.  Their diet chiefly consists of pig and vegetables, the latter, with the exception of rice, being greatly aided by the spontaneous productions of the country, for they are excellent herbalists.  These they cook with great skill and complexity, and handle their slender chop-sticks with dexterity and despatch, keeping up a constant colloquy with each other during the busiest and most interesting periods of the feeding process.  Every thing possibly edible, however, is acceptable to the Oriental palate; the coarsest of offal and small fish, lizards, rats, fat puppies, and all such abominable contributions, are gratefully accepted by John's capacious, and ostrich-like stomach.  But rough as the raw material may have been, there is nothing disgusting in the appearance when served; indeed, nothing can exceed the neatness and cleanliness of their cooking arrangements.  But much as others may contemn, there are doubtless many good points, worthy of imitation, that act as a heavy counterbalance, to the more disagreeable phases of this extraordinary compound of civilization and barbarism.  They are, without exception, the most law-abiding class in the community; it is a great rarity when one of them cuts up a freak worthy of the recorder's notice, and even then he is seldom the aggressor, but merely acting in a becoming manner of self-defence.  But even this latter becomes a crime in the eyes of the law, as a Chinaman's evidence is worthless against a citizen.  They are temperate in the use of alcoholic liquors, extremely economical, and industrious as bees.  Although well satisfied with a small compensation for their labors, there is no injury to other operatives, on the score of competition, as they mostly keep aloof, and live and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>It is to be deeply regretted that the right hand of fellowship and Christian charity has not been more freely tendered to this grateful and deeply thinking people.  Who can tell the astounding effect such a course might have ultimately had on the destinies of the world, and the march of the only true civilizer, the Christian religion.  Let it be remembered that this ingenious race, embracing as they do such a huge proportion of earth's inhabitants, still remain steeped in the darkest night of idolatry, and notwithstanding the cloud of missionaries who have nobly given their talents, fortunes and lives, for the God-like motive of heathen conversion, their efforts have almost been as naught, and treasures of worldly wealth, and, what is worse still, treasures of human intellect and virtue, have been hopelessly squandered as worthless things.  But it would actually appear as if the Deity himself had bided his own good time, and here, on the shores of the once lonely Pacific--where the oldest race may embrace and fraternise with the newest--had placed his holy standard, and marked it out as a grand rallying ground and university, to provide the whole heathen world with instructors, of potent and lasting influence--preachers of the gospel and men of their own language and kindred.  Yes, this is of all others the most effective field in the world to make converts, whose future efforts might well be crowned with success on their return to the land of their nativity; but, alas! such a consummation can scarcely be looked for by the most enthusiastic, where brutality and contempt are exercised, instead of Christian forbearance and brotherly love.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>Of the last, though not least, the famous Anglo-Saxon, a title now monopolised by all who claim the English for their native tongue.  He is here, as he appears determined to be in all places eventually, the head, heart, and tongue of all; and if he has somewhat misapplied his genius, and degenerated in the observance of the moral code, and in some of the nobler applications of his intellectual nature--by comparative estrangement from the society of virtuous females--exertions for the accumulation of wealth have been proportionably stimulated, and his native daring and internal strength have been multiplied four-fold.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The most numerous and important of this section of the <HI REND="italics">genus homo</HI>
159.sgm:<P>But here we may speculate on the characteristics of an individual representative, from what portion we please, and shall thus obtain a juster criterion of them, as a total, than we could by the minutest inspection from Maine to Texas.  The genuine Yankee, from the land of ``fixins,'' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Your b'hoy of New York, is a gay rollicking fellow--half of them are dentists--dressy if he can afford it, and much adicted to heavy betting, and sherry coblers, He is in favor of doing many things <HI REND="italics">a la mode de Paris</HI>
159.sgm:, and if nature vouchsafes the material, will most certainly sport an imperial or Henri-Quatre, and the last quarter goes free as the wind, to the boot-black and washman.  He has much less originality than his eastern brother, in language and physiognomy, but is far in advance of him in his ideas of manifest destiny, braggadocia and filibusterism.  He is a liberal patronizer of the theatrical corps, spouts, ``Now is the winter of our discontent,'' and <HI REND="italics">au fait</HI>
159.sgm: to the profoundest mystery of the green room, quotes Tom Paine, and calls himself a free-thinker, and calculates when he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The Kentuckians, Pennsylvanians and Buck-eyes, are a thriving prudent race, and approach the Yankee model much in their ideas of thrift and persistence.  But their spheres of action differ widely; for while the latter eschews bone and sinew practice, and develops his perceptive faculties to the most ample stretch, in the mysterious doctrine of speculative chances, the former plod industriously at established avocations, and are among the most industrious and well-doing of American citizens.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The South and S. West--to judge from that large portion here, amply displayed for perusal--are far--very far, in the rearward, in comparison with those named, in almost all the essentials that constitute refinement and enlightenment.  The curse of slavery with both, and the semi-barbarous, unrestrained frontier life of the latter, have left an indelible and unpleasant mark upon the present generation of the working classes of whites, and despite the bootless boast of free citizenship, and much as they may vaunt their sympathy for the down trodden masses of Europe, the Russian peasant is fully their equal in knowledge, and their superior in integrity.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The F. F's of the South, seem to possess all the haughtiness of the little German Prince, minus urbanity and respect to the laws of their country; and it is a sad truth, that even in this country, most of the tragedies enacted, have taken their origin in Southern principles, said principles consisting in the highwayman's coat of arms,--``might (or money) makes right.''</P>
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159.sgm:<P>Constant communication with slaves has done incredible evil with the laboring class of southerners; having it constantly before their eyes, that their employment is precisely similar to that of an inferior race, and extremely unremunerative besides, it can hardly be supposed, in a country where the moral rein is held so loosely, that virtue and industry can long hold out in the struggle--he resigns in despair, and the sole desire remaining is to calmly loaf his days away.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The most poverty-stricken, know-nothing gangs of the South, I have met with, are the Georgian miners, and dirt eaters from Carolina.  A large number of the Georgians originally found their way here on the Coolie system.  But on one point they differed materially from the Asiatics--that is, they invariably repudiated all indebtedness on their arrival, and after thus whitewashing themselves, commenced geological excavations on their own hook, independent as the fourth of July.  They are extremely dissipated, and slovenly in their apparel, but good-natured and communicative, while all of them seem to have an inveterate <HI REND="italics">penchant</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The Louisianians from the Crescent City have ideas of the largest dimensions, and boast that the banks of their ``Father of Waters.'' caves in more dirt, annually, than would manufacture a better island than Great Britain.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The Sharp-shooters, or <HI REND="italics">pikes</HI>
159.sgm:, from the mighty Missouri and its tributaries, are often made the butts of their better provided fellow-citizens, and they are, in sooth, commonly speaking, rough and unpolished as their own western land.  They have an instinctive antipathy to salt water, and in consequence, the major portion of them who have refreshed California by their attendance, are pilgrims by the land route.  They are extremely loquacious on the earliest acquaintanceship, and woe betide the luckless ``stranger'' upon whom they inflict, with their barbarous dialect, the lights and shadows of life on the plains, for as this solitary journey in the wilderness--which they term travelling--has been the first from the paternal roof tree, their memories are most disagreeably green, and tenacious of the smallest circumstance of adventure.  During the summer of '50, a certain county--far away in the wilds of Missouri--yelept Pike, was taken--without any premonitory symptoms whatever--with a wholesale emetic, and fairly inundated the desert--thick as Pharoah's frogs--with shoals of youthful, long-legged, hungry Pikes.  To the common query of returners--who met them on their march--of ``Whence come ye?'' the invariable countersign was Pike county, and as they brought for their sole heritage, a profounder shade of verdure even than their predecessors from the same State, their brethren got incongruously classed with them, and the brief cognomen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:of <HI REND="italics">Pike</HI>
159.sgm:<P>They are a whiskey-loving lot, adepts at the fashionable games of <HI REND="italics">poker</HI>
159.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">seven-up</HI>
159.sgm:<P>All these varieties are only to be found collected together in the wonderful menagerie of San Francisco, from whence proceed the different streams of fortune hunters, big with high hope, and again receives them on their backward route, with spirits exultant or crestfallen, as their varied fates may be.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The city occupies the north-eastern extremity of the peninsula, formed by the bay bearing its name on the one side, and by the Pacific on the other.  The harbor has been materially injured by what has been termed the extension policy, or sale of water lots by the government to private individuals, for the professed object of forming a sinking fund--an appropriate name, by the way--in order to meet the liabilities of the State.  But the real use of these lots has been to form palatable tit-bits from his obese Excellency to his parasites.  So well satisfied did the rulers become with their former experiments in this plan of land making, that a fresh Bill was formed for the purpose of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Much mischief has been already done, for the great business portion is, even now, outside the high water mark, and nearly fills up the crescent which originally existed between the protecting points of the harbor.  In a southeast gale, the position of the residents in many places is much more romantic than comfortable, for the houses undulate gracefully to the howl of the tempest, and the surging billows down in the cellar, and form no bad emblem of republican ``institutions'' in general.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Many a reverend old tub of a ship, that has been crowded off to make way for the splendid race of clippers that now swarm upon the ocean, is here laid up high and dry, with a mile of street between her and her native element.-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The amount of business performed on these planked piles in the course of one day, is beyond belief.  Crowds of all races, all languages, and all colors, jostle each other, all on their own interest bound, and heedless of their passing neighbors.  Here is the sharp-sighted trade-loving Yankee, with starched collar, and glossy stove-pipe, endeavoring to make a small per centage with the solemn Asiatic merchant, Sing Ho, rejoicing in scarlet stockings, a mushroom hat, and pigtail measurable by fathoms.  A veritable counterpart of his ancestor Sing Ho, who flourished during the Chun dynasty, thousands of years ago.  There is the swarthy Mexican, bedizened in high colored, tawdry finery, puffing a cigar of paper, and happily gallanting a dark-eyed greaser signorita.  Then comes the effervescent fidgetty Frenchman, his limbs in continued motion for emphasis to his hurried utterance.  Here, too, may be heard on all sides the children of Israel, lifting up their voices--from dark vistas of slop clothes--in solicitations to ``valk in and shee te kootsh.'' On moves the motley human tide, Kanakas and Cossacks, Britons and Brazilians, Indians, Irishmen, Icelanders, Germans, and gentlemen of color, literally every nation under heaven--but Anglo-Saxon manners and customs maintain their due <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Whole cargoes, of two or three thousand tons, are discharged and placed upon the wharf with a celerity and punctuality elsewhere incomprehensible.  Drays loaded with rich freight from every climate, and pulled by sleek and powerful horses, frequently blockade the ill-conditioned streets, to the dismay and choler of hurried pedestrians, notwithstanding the praiseworthy exertions of their profane drivers, every epithet, holy and unholy, often failing to extricate them.  One good reason for this every-day chaos in the wholesale streets, is the common liberty enjoyed by the merchants of depositing their wares where they may think best, and as all are, of course, emulous of exhibiting their stock in the most alluring position to the public eye, it is not unusual to discover a respectable stock-in-trade, nearly midway of the street, while the capacious brick store to which it appertains, is merely garnished with a beggarly account of empty boxes.</P>
159.sgm:<P>When we have tired our eyes with the teeming streets and wharves, and evening compels reluctant traders to adjourn, we may step aside and survey at a respectful distance, the worshippers at the shrine of chance--at least as it was a year since, for, alas! its palmiest days are over.  In '52, a broken down old <HI REND="italics">roue</HI>
159.sgm: --who had won and lost within a week $50,000--in lamenting the degeneracy of the present times, informed me, with tears in his eyes, that the then doings were but childish tricks in comparison with the dashing days of old.  It might be so, but faith the work seemed to go bravely on still, and if a judgment might be hazarded, from the immense numbers who nightly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:crowded these hells, a thriving trade was still conducted by the handsome, clerically-dressed scoundrels and painted <HI REND="italics">dames de Paris</HI>
159.sgm:, who united their ingenuity to make the callow-young.  Some of the saloons applied for this unhallowed purpose, were here almost unequalled in splendour, and might be called in any place magnificent affairs.  Uniting two streets, with a lordly entrance on each,  daylight, which was not in much request, by the way, was supplied from the lofty transparent roof, and numerous chandeliers of exquisite workmanship united their radiance and assimilated the depths of midnight with noon day.  The lover of harmony might here revel in sweet sounds to the top of his bent, for a capacious orchestra was there filled with moustachied professors of the art divine.  The polished rosewood bar runs the whole length of the ample building, backed by obliging tapsters, with collars of the starchiest, and hair of the greasiest, where the fastidious toper might soak his thirsty clay with that beverage which seemeth best unto him, from a plain ``brandy straight'' to the most complicated ``fancy,'' for the uniform equivalent of two bits a glass.  Voluptuous pictures of female beauty--all of the French school and mostly indelicate--were set in rich frames, and alternately with costly mirrors, hung closely around the walls; and the real stages of action--the ruling motive for all this costly frippery, the <HI REND="italics">roulette</HI>
159.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">monte tables</HI>
159.sgm: --were of course in all respects consistent with the <HI REND="italics">tout ensemble</HI>
159.sgm:<P>Order is said to be Heaven's first law, and as a consequence, man's necessity; and the sentence will seem to hold good in its application, even to these sinks of iniquity: for they too have their grades like all things else under the sun, and some of these resorts even bore the name of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:witness on the murderer's trial, who pronounced the prisoner respectable, for the very satisfactory reason that he kept a gig.  The gambling houses demonstrated as such, use only the time-honored and substantial games of Monte, Rouge et Noir, Faro, &amp;c.; but in the lower regions, where the spicy pastimes of Roulette, French Monte, and the Little Joker flourished, not a shadow of a chance existed in favor of the deluded pilgarlie who dared to test the hazards of the game.  Each table had its adequate number of <HI REND="italics">cappers</HI>
159.sgm:<P>A fresh importation from the Atlantic States, or a successful miner determinedly bound for <HI REND="italics">Bosting</HI>
159.sgm:, is immediately detected by these experienced physiognomists, the moment he crosses the threshold.  As soon as pricked, the tyro is gradually trustled up to the tempting precincts of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:being <HI REND="italics">respectable</HI>
159.sgm:<P>An animated scene now commences between the jolly banker and his auxiliaries, who occupy his right and left wing, with a reserve in front for emergencies.  He of the slugs and specimens has, to all appearance, liquored over-much--his fine shining hat has received a dinge, and topples groggily from his brows--he brags of his bank, and much witty repartee passes between him and his amiable colleagues, who with shirts of fanciful patterns, pistols, and beard, are excellent fac-similes of miners, well to do, on a visit to the metropolis.  They are sharp-looking miners too, exceedingly wide-awake, and apparently resolved on stripping the inebriated gambler of his entire capital.  After much amusing dialogue, the banker in a bungling sort of style, rattles the die and inverts his box on the table, he then removes his hand from it and solicits bets--at the same time, the troublesome miner on his left apparently endeavors to divert his attention, by handing him some awkward coin to exchange.  While the banker's eye is turned off, the deed is accomplished.  The confederate on the right perceives his advantage, and, with a catlike motion, slightly raises the box, which plainly discloses the winning letter to all the spectators, his associate then ceases his annoyance, and down they plump their heavy bags on the similar table letter.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>Now, all this little by-play has been acted expressly to arouse Bosting's acquisitiveness, and has been attentively watched, both by that verdant one and the other by-standers--the greater portion of whom are aware of its object, but even if they were so inclined, they dare not utter a syllable of warning to the dupe, for summary and unpleasant ejection from the premises surely follows such an offence.--As this is most probably Bosting's first introduction to such a scene, he has naturally enough some conscientious scruples, touching the propriety of thus defrauding the good-natured gambler.  But he argues to himself, that others will do it, and why should not he have his share; besides to double his finances in a moment is a splendid idea, so he concludes to repent at leisure, and with a nervous jerk he stakes the buckskin bag which contains his all, exclaiming, in a voice shakey with the excitement, ``The Mines or Bosting.''  The die is instantly exposed to the view of all present, when lo! his favorite letter has inconceivably disappeared from the top, having indeed been dexterously capsized, previous to uncovering.</P>
159.sgm:<P>If the plucked keep frigid, he is kindly permitted to depart in peace, and perhaps invited to imbibe; but if he exhibit intractability to his fate, he instantaneously discovers himself bewildered in the gutter, from whence he is seen slowly to emerge on a prospecting tour to ``murderer's bar'' or ``Sears's diggings,'' as the case may be, while the old formula begins anew as a fresh goose is led to the table.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Contemptible as these resorts may seem, large sums were daily realized by these authorized rogues, and the bankers were far from being thought lightly of, even among the highest society the city could afford, for many of the tables <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Public opinion has however turned against the knaves.  Sunday play was first prohibited, and finally all were declared unlawful; and although much of it is still carried on, they are at least prohibited from exhibiting their enormities to the public gaze, which saves many from falling into their clutches.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Many other callings were, and are even now, followed in the Bay City, not a whit more honest than those above-mentioned; such as mock auctions, watch stuffings, and other swindling tricks, incidental to a much larger city.--One reason may be that operative labor is here certain wealth, and money is comparatively speaking, easily earned, and in most cases is apt to be valued in proportion.  This circumstance, in conjunction with the miserable police department, holds out a strong inducement to black-legs of every grade, to say nothing of the political dishonesty of those to whom has been entrusted the protection of life and property.  It has heretofore been an inviolable rule--cheat on the grandest scale, cow hide the servant of God at the altar, or pistol your opponent for injured honor; the invincible dollar will vindicate you, and carry you scatheless through the ordeal against a cloud of witnesses, backed by all existing statutes.  As a proof we may cite in account, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>But there are many sights and sounds both pleasing and instructive to the lover of his kind, which are already taking deep root in this great mart of heterogeneous and conflicting items.  The Sabbath bells calling to the house of prayer, the work in most instances of the persevering sons of New England; the happy, noisy urchins, loosed from school restraint; the hosts of news-boys vending the latest papers from the east; the tearing, ranting red republican steam paddy, scooping a ton of sand at each inspiration of its mighty lungs, he is your true and impartial leveller, and gives to the valleys the superfluity of the hills; already have its efforts graded dozens of streets, and performed of itself the labor of an army of spadesmen.  But the great manufacturing district of the city, occupies the southern portion, which bears the pleasing chimerical name of ``Happy Valley.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>But few branches of mechanical industry are now, or are ever likely to be of equal importance with iron manufacturers, in this State.  The inconvenience of importing clumsy machinery, which was until recently a matter of necessity, was undoubtedly a dead weight to such investments <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The trade to be sure is yet in its infancy, but the brat is a lusty one, and a glorious manhood is before it.  Many ocean steamers of vast magnitude already disturb the peaceful bosom of the Pacific.  Every lonely bay will ere long be ruffled by the restless paddle, which will require existence or at least constant aid from the busy cyclops.  Commerce also will most surely pry into each navigable stream, but San Francisco must still be as she is now, the great force-pump.  Her commercial advantages must still continue imperative, both from her central position, and from the fact, that it is almost the only harbor worthy of the name on the Western coast of habitable North America.  Already indeed there is an export of machinery to the home ports, the islands and western Mexico, the quartz, grist and saw mills, are also supplied with their gear, with more convenience, and in the end much cheaper, than they possibly could by the best system <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:of importation.  A uniform increase and success is the inevitable result, and despite the bleak and uncomfortable aspect of the region apportioned to the sons of Vulcan, the adjective of Happy, is not so <HI REND="italics">mal apropos</HI>
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159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PART II.<LB>THE MINES.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>For the reason that the mines were the great acquisitive principle that led to the permanent occupation of California, they are too apt to be considered by the new comers, as well as the ``old folks at home,'' the leading feature, and, indeed, only powerful point of attraction worthy of a separate notice.  Without pretending to deny that their influence is now, and long will be the most potent of any one, in directing the destinies of the state, it must still be acknowledged that their material importance has been much overrated, and all must allow that every ounce exported tends to exhaust their superiority over other less pretentious, but more solid and lasting fields of investment and labor.</P>
159.sgm:<P>It is somewhat surprising too, that the richest Placers, as well here as in Australia, were the earliest discoveries; in fact, what at the present day would be trumpeted forth as valuable diggings, would scarcely have sufficed to defray running expenses, during the never-to-be-forgotten years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>To give a synopsis or history of every mining camp would prove neither useful nor interesting to the general reader, even if it were possible, which it is not, both from the vast territory to be explored, and the difficulty of procuring correct statistics, from the boasting propensities of the over sanguine, and the doleful complaints of the despondent and homesick.  Neither can we place absolute dependence on the editor's ``Facts of the day,'' or their correspondents lengthy epistles containing the latest ``News from the Mountains.''  Such stuff is mostly treated with sovereign contempt by the veterans, and well may it be so, for it is often a mere ruse of stage or steamboat proprietors as an inducement for tyros to patronize their favorite line; but as carriers on other rivers and roads are well posted on these tricks of the trade, their covert advertisements are equally stuffed with ``astounding discoveries'' and ``big lumps,'' so much so, that a balance of attraction is perfectly established, and the would-be nabob is only puzzled--like the donkey between the bundles of provender--as to which of the El Dorados he had best <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:patronize.  Nor can we trust much to the hoards of unsuccessful geologists, always to be found in the larger cities.  Their views are most likely to be tinged with the bleak retrospect of their disappointment, stupidity, or shameful prodigality, and the thoughts of their varied afflictions, induce them to look on the mining districts with other than rose-colored spectacles, and fervently to dispatch them with all their <HI REND="italics">et ceteras</HI>
159.sgm:<P>Mining at the present time may be classed under four great heads, each differing from the other in many important features.  They are, the surface diggings, deep diggings, river and quartz mining.  The surface diggings, where the deposits have been large, are of course nearly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Where the strata is rich and the field extensive, water can generally be conveyed, from some of the mountain streams or rivers, by means of a ditch or flume, and in such cases, an ample supply may be provided for the greater part of the year.  But as water is very expensive when delivered by those means, the inferior places as before said, must lie fallow, until the winter rains supply the necessary fluid without money, but not without price.  Indispensable it is, as the existence of the ore itself within the soil, to prosecute the business of mining, for there is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:absolutely, no other method than washing, by which the few shining specks can be extracted, from the vast proportion of sand and gravel with which it is enveloped.  Large lumps to be sure are often picked up, and there are coarse gold diggings where much has been found by picking slate ledge, and depending on the eye, but such are rare exceptions--for they are diggings of the most desirable kind, where the gold can be detected <HI REND="italics">in the soil</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The deep diggings, which are now fast becoming the sole dependence of the miner, are worked in two different ways, according to the soil or the natural position, and may very properly be subdivided into flats and hills.  It is obvious that the only way to prospect the ledge or bedrock of a flat, is by sinking a shaft in the first instance, and if payable, to penetrate the ground from the shaft, sending everything to the surface of the earth in tubs, except where the ground is not of a great depth, or of a very loose description, that would make it unsafe to undermine.  Ground of this nature is got at, merely, by taking the worthless portion off and laying the pay dirt bare, which is then picked up and washed.  This is denominated <HI REND="italics">stripping</HI>
159.sgm:<P>To penetrate a hill it is not generally requisite to sink a hole at all.  It is usual to commence at a point supposed to be at least sufficiently low to drain off all the water, and open a tunnel.  Sometimes it is essential to cut through what is termed the <HI REND="italics">rim</HI>
159.sgm: ledge, and follow through with just sufficient rise to drain off any springs that may be struck.  For it is often the case that the bed-rock will rise up, coinciding with the hill for some distance, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:again decline or <HI REND="italics">pitch</HI>
159.sgm: towards its centre.  The ledge most commonly lies in such a shape in the best tunnels.  Sometimes the tunnels have been commenced at a point too high for drainage, as it is found on crossing the rim ledge that it still continues descending; and no resource remains but to retreat and commence anew at a point sufficiently low.  But when the tunnel has been started and followed too low for the paying gravel in the hill, it can be obviated by penetrating upwards to the proper distance, and going on with another one above, the old one still answering the purpose of a drain and as a means of entrance and exit.  When the excavation is made through the solid rock or very compact ground, it is not necessary to protect the top or sides, but when unsafely loose, it is indispensable to line both with timber to prevent them tumbling in.  Many lives and immense labor have been sacrificed from carelessness in this particular.  When the distance is much, it is frequently necessary to sink a shaft in the interior to cause a current of air; but when this is impracticable from the rapid rise of the hill or the composition of the soil, it can be ventilated by means of fans.  Even after auriferous earth is found, the tunnel is continued straight ahead until the lead is crossed or discontinues sufficiently paying.  A series of cross drifts then commenced at right angles with the main one, the breadth of the claim, or if not claimed, <HI REND="italics">a la discretion</HI>
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159.sgm:<P>Not the most distant approximation can be made to the wealth of the hills in California, for every month teems with fresh discoveries in this system of mining, but it is it that will gradually bring the calling completely under the control of capitalists, or at least of large companies; both from the heavy risk that attends prospecting, and the expense of working after the gold is found; the thousands of prospects holes and deserted tunnels scattered throughout the length and breadth of the land, tell a sad tale of many a small fortune's wreck, and may well act as beacons to deter others from venturing their little all in an adventure so hazardous.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The river or wet diggings occupy the channels of rivers, and those portions called bars, which have undoubtedly been formed by the earth washed from the mountains by winter freshets.  At those bars the river often appears to have been turned from its original course, by the accumulation of deposit in its bed, and forms a species of flat peninsula, and sometimes even an island that divides the river into two channels.  The gold on these places is mostly fine, which circumstance will aid to verify the theory of its being a deposit--the growth of centuries.  It is also more thoroughly mixed with the soil than in the mountains, or in professional parlance less ``spotted,'' for it will mostly pay a per centage from the surface to the bed rock, a depth varying in different places from a hundred feet downwards.  When the bed rock is found bare, it is mostly worthless, unless perhaps it has occupied the bed of a stream where large deposits have often been found secreted in the crevices or ``pockets,'' after the water has been taken off.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Soon after the first discoveries of the precious metal, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>This wholesale drainage is likewise of vast benefit to those who hold what are termed bar or bank claims, that is from the low water mark back to the hills, and varying in breadth in different districts, but thirty or forty feet may be a general average.  By the removal of the water, they are enabled to sink their shafts below what before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The quartz leads form an entirely independent feature in the art of mining, totally distinct from the others.  They can only be worked advantageously by monied men, from the great quantities of machinery requisite to separate the gold from the rock.  This can only be accomplished thoroughly, by crushing it to a powder, although very rich quartz has repaid individual effort, sometimes very handsomely, merely by burning and then pounding it with a pestle and mortar.  The greater part of the quartz companies for so far, have been failures, arising in part from want of thorough prospecting in the first instance, and in the second from inexperience, imperfect management, and irresponsible defaulters.  But no doubt can exist of its ultimately becoming a permanent and profitable branch of mining, when expectations are moderated, and when men of integrity and skill are permitted to guide their management.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The existence of these quartz leads is very singular; and their contiguity to almost all hill diggings, and the immensity of gold actually contained in many of them, hold out confirmation strong to many, that quartz is the original <HI REND="italics">mother</HI>
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159.sgm:<P>Main quartz leads generally run parallel to each other, although they have spurs or branches in every direction.  The lead can often be traced for many miles, through hill and valley, and even across large rivers.  Sometime it totally disappears from the surface and again emerges clear and distinct as ever, looking at a distance like flocks of snow white sheep, and adds great variety and interest to many an otherwise monotonous landscape.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Mining machinery has undergone great changes and improvements since the early days, and just in proportion as the gold became more difficult to procure, so have the means for facilitating its extraction increased.  During the period of the early discoveries--a knife to scrape the crevices and a tin cup to receive the proceeds, were considered sufficient implements; when it began to be found mixed with the earth, a flaring tin or iron pan began to be used, and is used still for prospecting and cleansing purposes by the whites, and even as a means of livelihood by Greasors and Indians; many a snug fortune, too, has been made by the simple process of ``panning out.''  The operation is performed by inserting the pan (which contains about a common pail-full of earth,) in the water and keeping it constantly in motion, at the same time picking out the large stones.  As the pan flaps backwards and forwards, the light sand gradually works off, and the gold naturally settles to the bottom and by continuing the process the gold is left completely by itself; the fiftieth part of a cent can thus be saved, and is perfectly visible.  A Mexican can pan from fifty to a hundred pans per day, and make small wages out of earth paying two or three cents to the bucketful.  After the pan came the rocker, and finally the long tom, sluice and hydraulic, together <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The rocker as its name implies, consists of a box somewhat in the form of a child's cradle with the rockers attached, but shallower, and sometimes without a footboard.  At the upper end, when in operation, is a piece of canvas on a slight wooden frame, moveable at pleasure.  This is inserted, angularly from the top nearly midway to the bottom at the head of the rocker.  Over this rests a box about two feet square and four inches deep, with an iron bottom punched with holes a quarter of an inch in diameter, it too is moveable as well as the canvas or ``apron.''  When a bucket of ``pay-dirt'' is deposited in this box, the machine is set in motion backwards and forwards by means of a handle attached to the body, and water poured on by a dipper holding about half a gallon.  This carries through all substances of less diameter than the holes, and when this is accomplished, the box is lifted or swung off on a kind of hinge, to dispose of the gravel that remains.  In the meantime all the light earth, gravel and sand, have washed completely through the rocker--which is so placed as to have a small declination from head to foot--leaving the gold and heavy sand on the canvas.  The apron is not removed until what is called a run had gone through, which consists of 25, 50, or 100 buckets, according to the richness of the earth or the judgment of the operator.  When this is done, the apron is carefully scraped into the head and taken out, while water is again applied and the rocker shaken smartly.  The gold, from its superior specific gravity, is thus left behind, mixed most commonly with heavy black sand, which is separated by panning or blowing, if tolerably coarse, but the very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The long tom was a great improvement on the rocker, and although differing much in appearance, acts precisely on the same principle, but with much greater despatch and economy, and the reason it has not completely superseded the rocker, is, that it requires a smart running stream of at least six cubic inches, and a fall of one foot in twenty to work successfully.  Its principal advantage is, that the running water performs the work of rocking itself, and while two hands keep busy in feeding the machine, one can, by working industriously, keep it clear of the refuse gravel, simply by shovelling it out, and no interruption is requisite in the matter of cleaning up, before the conclusion of the days' work; when one or two thousand buckets of earth is found in the ``riffle box,'' concentrated into one panful.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The sluice was the next improvement in the art of labor-saving, but it is often impossible to apply it, in ground where either the rocker or tom may be advantageously used.  It wants a much heavier stream than the tom, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Sometimes, the riffle consists of light slats of wood or iron, running crosswise or longitudinally, and sometimes of a board full of auger holes.  But the varieties are legion, for there is not one essential in the whole mining craft, upon which exists so much diversity of opinion; and indeed it is a favorite method among the mischievous boys, who wish to set a pair of cranky old fellows by the ears, to introduce and compare the respective favorite of each.  It is, no doubt, from this that the California proverb is derived, wherein we illustrate a man's success in some favorite project, by saying ``He has made the riffle.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>The hydraulic hose is perhaps the most wholesale system of all, but so many natural advantages require to be united for its profitable use, that many may be resident in the mines for years, without ever having the opportunity of seeing it tested.  It requires, in the first instance, a very steep bank of earth, either to be stripped off for a substrata, or to be auriferous in itself.  This field must also be of considerable extent, for the various items used become <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The work is performed by turning the water on the face of the bank, through a nozzle attached to very strong hose--generally No. 1 canvas doubled--similar to the way water is forced from a fire engine, only, that instead of being forced out by hand, it is done by the pressure or weight of the water itself, which is of course powerful in proportion to the height it falls.  With a fall of forty or fifty feet the effect on a bank is tremendous, for no strata of earth is so compact as to resist it.  It will even tear up the common sandstone ledge, and lava melts before it, like snow.  I have seen dogs intentionally killed by it, in a few seconds, and accidents have occurred, where men have lost their lives in a similar way.  I knew of an instance where a drifter--in close contiguity to a hydraulic--was accidentally buried, by a cave of more than forty tons of earth, and before his three companions could return from a distance of three hundred yards, whither they had gone in pursuit of shovellers, the hydraulic had released him, and although he looked quite damp and uncomfortable at first, he returned to his labor quite philosophically in a few minutes.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Ground sluicing is never a finishing work of itself.  It simply reduces the quantity of dirt, to be afterwards sluiced by the usual means.  It is done by allowing a very heavy stream to rush over the ground, which requires to be very steep in consequence, and thus carries off a very large per centage of the refuse soil without any shovelling at all, but the constant application of the pick tends materially to expedite the matter, more especially if the quantity of gravel is material.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>The capital invested in ditches would appear almost fabulous.  More than one has cost a million of dollars, and some of them in their various ramifications are over a hundred miles in length.  In many places a single mile has cost twenty thousand dollars, and there is now scarcely a camp of any importance in all the northern or southern mines, where water is not procurable by artificial means, for a greater or less portion of the year.  Although embracing such an enormous portion of the capital of the country, there is not probably a more uncertain investment in the whole range of this uncertain country.  It is next to impossible to put a valuation on your stock even after a year's experience.  And instances are not rare where a dividend of a hundred per cent has been paid at the end of six months, and at the very same time the stock a drug in the market at fifty per cent below par.--Instances of this kind occur where the strata has been completely superficial, and paying well while they lasted, were of course soon exhausted.  But again the stock may take an upward tendency--after being almost abandoned--from the discovery of deep diggings commanded by its waters.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The speedy exhaustion of the mines was early foretold, and even so lately as '52, the erector of a brick building in a mining town, was generally ridiculed as a visionary.  But at the present day there is not a town worthy of the name, that has not several substantial fire-proof buildings of brick or stone, and notwithstanding that the diggings in the immediate vicinity are for the most part worked out, new habitations are constantly in the course of erection--for concentration is now more fashionable than of yore--and the large camps have chiefly swallowed up the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>What a contrast do these funny little villages present, to the eye of one habituated to the sleepy agricultural towns of other countries; built of all kinds of possible materials, shapes and sizes, and in any spot, no matter how inconvenient, where the first store-keeper choose to pitch himself.  Sometimes they are found on a broad flat with no suburb visible, squeezed together as though the and had originally been purchased by the inch, the little streets so crooked and confined, a wheelbarrow could scarcely be made to go through them; sometimes again, they are made up of detached buildings, forming an extended village two or three miles long, a great inconvenience to every one, and to politicians and gossipers in particular.  Some, too, are quite invisible until you discover them at your feet buried in a deep chasm, and unapproachable, unless you be pleased to make your <HI REND="italics">entree</HI>
159.sgm:<P>But for all the forlorn appearance that many of them present, they are to all intents and purposes ``towns as are towns''--real go-a-head marts for traffic, living on trade, and the constant turmoil of demand and supply.  They were never intended by their founders for aught else, and business men, not pleasure seekers are the owners.  Independent citizens enjoying life on patrimonies, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>I do verily believe if the whole catalogue of the free institutions--from independence day down to stuffing a ballot box--were exposed to the inspection of an unprejudiced judge, with the view of obtaining his opinion as to what constitutes the most original native invention--the pure unadulterated `dead-head' would most assuredly bear the palm.  Yes!  Envious foreigners may strive, and that successfully, to snatch the honors of steamboats and forced servitude, telegraphs, piracy and mint juleps--but the loafer is incomparably--an established United States fixture--in short, an institution.  He has no sectionalism about him.  He is a federalist, a part and parcel of Uncle Sam himself.  Kansas may be gained by Sharpe's rifles, or ruffian guns--foreign citizens may be stripped of their franchise--chewing tobacco may become unpopular--but the loafer is a permanence.  As he is at the Astor House, so is he in El Dorada, his means of livelihood the queerest problem of the day.  But there he is, in lank dyspeptic flesh and blood--day after day, and year after year; in salubrious weather on the piazza of the best hotel--or in bad, at the box stove, picking his teeth or lazily puffing a fragrant Havana, his heels uplifted, his upper lip negligently curled, and the very cut of his hat betraying a languid contempt for the whole race of the uninitiated.  He has no fellowship with the European sot of a gin shop or wine cellar--no sympathy with such, for a gulf is between them.  <HI REND="italics">They</HI>
159.sgm: are humility's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Too many tyros get discouraged on their first introduction to hard knocks and indifferent placers, and desert at at once, indignant and disgusted.  Such persons, if possible, return home by the first steamer, and of course relate to sympathizing friends, the doleful catalogue of their wrongs and misfortunes while in the mines, interspersed with shrewd guesses, as to the ultimate fate of the unfortunates who remain; and all this elaborate knowledge has perhaps been acquired in the experience of twenty-four hours.  The unfortunates whose finances will not permit an immediate exodus from the country, must seek employment in cities for bread, and a reconstruction of their wardrobe, they will therefore be obliged to labor for a trifling remuneration--often, indeed, merely for their board.  Such has been the fate of thousands, who with the diseased fancy of becoming immediate nabobs, have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>There is another class worthy of mention, from their great numbers and the powerful influence they wield.--These good natured people take things as they come with the stoicism of a Turk, but are not in the end in any more affluent circumstances than those just mentioned.--They are, nevertheless, as independent and perhaps to the full as happy as lords.  As they erect their own shanties--rent, fuel, and water are free--and their only remaining difficulty is to liquidate the weekly store-bill, which they manage by working their ground one, two, or more days, according to its productive powers.  Those who are not fortunate enough to be proprietors, perform the same object by working for others.  Another half day, or day--according to the individual's imbibing qualities--will pay the tavern bill, and the ``balance'' of the seven days is at the gentleman's own disposal.  This is expended according to varied tastes, the free and easies in drinking, sleeping, and euere, while those of a literary turn spend theirs in the questionable improvement of their minds, to be derived from translations of obscene French books, and the odd novels that chance throws in their way.</P>
159.sgm:<P>It must not be supposed that the hard laborer--even in the mines--is always the most successful, although it certainly is the place, of all others, where the prudent exercise of bone and muscle meets with its surest and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:most adequate reward.  There are numbers of persons, however, who manage by various ingenious plans, and adroit management, to elude labor, while at the same time they contrive to scrape the dust together in a wonderful manner.  Besides the legitimate offices of stores and boarding houses, there are many whose sole occupation consists in <HI REND="italics">jumping</HI>
159.sgm: or locating claims, and then disposing of them in the most advantageous way possible by sale or barter.  As a body their respectability is more than doubtful.--They are obliged to prevaricate and double in every conceivable way, to carry out their plans with success, which are, for the most part, executed on fresh arrivals from the agricultural districts, and foreigners, more especially the Chinaman, who is commonly considered lawful game, even by the wild but cunning aborigines, who have actually had the aptness, to palm themselves on the unsuspecting Asiatics as foreign tax collectors, and thus swindle them out of their dear bought earnings.  One of the most successful tricks heretofore in vogue among the mining speculators, was happily denominated <HI REND="italics">salting</HI>
159.sgm:.  This consisted in shooting small portions of gold dust into a bank from a shot gun, where it was likely to pass through the ordeal of prospecting in the pan of the intending purchaser, who discovers when too late the <HI REND="italics">charge</HI>
159.sgm:<P>From the vast influx of foreigners into the mines, they were early deemed by the lords of the soil, as excellent sources for revenue, and a law was soon in operation, entitled ``An Act for the protection of foreigners,'' but ``An Act for the spoilation of foreigners'' would have been a much more applicable title to its spirit and intention.--From many causes, it has not worked so glibly as hoped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Even so late as '51, when the fiats of the legislature were more respected than they have ever been since, the collector could often make a per centage, even from speakers of the English language.  But from that date it has got gradually into disuse--principally from the risk of collection--although the attempt is sometimes made, even at the present day.</P>
159.sgm:<P>In the Summer of 1853, there was a company consisting of three persons, on a bar of the main Yubea, called Ousley's, of which I was a member in reputable standing.  Like all diggings in the foot-hills, the gold was extremely fine and very sparingly sown besides, and for more than a month, our industry had barely sufficed to extort civility from the dirty little Dutch storekeeper, who for some time previous had stuck up in his den some badly executed and worse spelt placards, purporting that ``Trust has just vamosed the ranch, to look for new diggings,'' or perhaps containing a pleasant little fiction--that if we paid to-day we would be quite welcome to trust to-morrow--the unkindest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>I was one noontide endeavouring to doze in the hot blast beneath a spreading live oak, after an unsuccessful morning's hard labor, and in a humor quite the reverse to agreeable, with no safety valve by which to expend it, for my companions were at the same time--if possible--more disagreeable than myself.  I was suddenly startled by the apparition of a little sallow Mississippian, with a bald head and two revolvers and a rifle as long as himself.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Friend,'' said he quietly, ``jidgin from your overalls, your a miner I reckon.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Yes,'' I exclaimed fiercely, in spite of the formidable array of my questioner.  ``Poverty must bear its uniform, I suppose, but I have yet to learn that we must endure the gibes of bummers and blacklegs in consequence.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Darn your overalls,'' he replied, in so bland a tone I could not for the life of me penetrate whether it was a malediction, or sage advice, touching a very unseemly rent that existed in my garment.  However, as his remark called for no direct reply, I merely cocked the tattered rim of my hat more proudly than before, and relapsed into as dignified a silence as I could possibly assume.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Stranger,'' he resumed at length, ``can't you disciver who I be?''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``I have no curiosity sir, to penetrate into your private affairs.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Wal I've jest got you now whar I want you.  I ain't private you see, nor never was private, nor none of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>As I felt at the moment in a misanthropical mood, I was seized with the idea of annoying my companions, and knowing well that there was not a grain of dust, or the President's face in the cabin, I promptly informed him where he could find two, one Irishman and one Canadian.  The little man pondered the subject for a few minutes, patting his head with a flaming bandana, and then observed with the aspect of a Solon,</P>
159.sgm:<P>``I reckon I'll put down to the Chinese camp, I kin 'elect thar, any how, and it mightned be much keount to try that thar cabin of yourn, for I've found in my experience, an Irishman is allers a citizen and a good democrat, and as for the Canue--why the unfortunite critters, they want to be bad enough, and mayhap bymby when they larn something, we'll allow 'em to annex--so I'll jest travel down whar it will pay on the ledge.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>For miles down the Western slope, below the highest peaks of the Sierra Nevada, gold is rarely to be found.  About one-third of the whole distance down, the first placers begin to make themselves visible.  Loose pieces of quartz interspersed with slate, and a loose red loamy soil, are the first sure indications, and there are but few ravines--containing compact gravel in their beds--in which the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>A few placers have been discovered in the coast range, but so meagre, that in few localities have they defrayed the expense of collection, although, in the very important article of quicksilver, portions of this range have proved exceedingly productive; and where it exists, the ground is valued at immense sums, but from the great outlay required in the commencement, the mines are only worked by chartered companies.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The main lead of the gold fields appears to run midway on the Western slope, and parallel with the range, from the interior of Oregon to the State of Sonora in Mexico; although vast tracts intervene of small value, and for the remainder of the mountains, south of the river Mariposa--although containing small leads--few of the placers are of sufficient importance, to induce parties to form any important settlements.</P>
159.sgm:<P>A great excitement was raised a few years back, by the announcement, that an extensive mining country was discovered in these regions, at a place called Kern River, and some thousand miners deserted the Northern district in the pursuit.  But after incredible fatigue and expense, in a journey of four or five hundred miles, they made the withering discovery, that the river was nearly dry, and the diggings, except in a few spots, already occupied by the first adventurers--of the most inferior description.  Many died of inanition and exhaustion, and those that did survive found themselves bankrupt in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>An indignation meeting was the result of this enquiry, which ended in the arraignment of the accused before the bar of the injured prospecters, and after an impartial trial the unfortunate merchant was condemned to the gallows, and his ill-gotten gain confiscated for the purpose of assisting the people to return.  Justice was promptly executed on the delinquent, and the camp became almost deserted; and from that date to the present, no explorations of any importance have ever been made south of the so-called Southern Mines.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Even in that wide auriferous region containing the Fremont patent, in the Mariposa district, mining is very far from being a prosperous occupation, owing in part to the scarcity of water, because the chief part of the rivers south of the Tuolumne are dry at least half of the year, and their isolation makes it a costly and profitless journey to go off and return during the dry season; and all persons at all intimate with the mines, the manners, habits, and acquired propensities of those who follow the avocation, will own that a permanent settlement in some place that will afford constant if even slow returns, is the only way--with isolated exceptions--by which the work can be advantageously prosecuted and money eventually saved.  But the majority of gold-hunters are either men of strong sanguine temperaments or reckless adventurers, and many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Two men probably locate a claim in a ravine that will produce three or four dollars per day to the hand; they then erect their cabin, work a few days to lay up a stock of provisions, and then commence prospecting by digging holes in the hills contiguous, with the view of discovering a richer lead.  Shaft after shaft is sunk without success, until beans and the usual savory accompaniment have disappeared from their habitation.  Necessity again compels them to apply themselves in their despised gulch.  They are again resuscitated, and the prospecting commences afresh, until the year expires and finds them head and cars in the ledger of the merchant, and their despised claim confiscated to liquidate the debt.  But had they used the same amount of industry in working their gulch, as they did in excavating the hills in fruitless searches for a fortune, they would both have acquired a thousand dollars each.</P>
159.sgm:<P>This mode of working makes the average amount annually earned--to the man--but trifling, although the semi-monthly exports by the steamer, make the aggregate appear large.  But the truth is--between this speculative system of applying their labor, and travelling from place to place, together with much idleness, intemperance, and reckless waste--at least two-thirds of the mining operatives live in a state of constant poverty, although a hope of final success supports the one class, and a firm resolve to amend at some indefinite period, the other.  And so they drudge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Many persons in reading over the various casualties to life and limb--to be found in California newspapers--and observing that the people, in the majority of cases, revenge their own wrongs in open defiance of the legal tribunals, are apt to imagine the country in a position of complete disorganization and lawlessness; but essentially bad, as the state of society undoubtedly is, in no other country within the universe, could the rights of property and human life be equally respected under a system of government nominally invincible--but in reality incapable of executing its smallest mandate without an extreme physical majority.  Republicanism, here, may be literally said to have run mad, so ridiculously incapable is it of exercising control over the masses; for even among the most enthusiastic admirers of the so called popular principles of government--the law, its makers, and all its complicated machinery are laughed at, and treated, not only with derision but often with marked hostility.</P>
159.sgm:<P>It is undoubtedly the good sense and natural love of order and of justice, inherent in the Anglo-Saxon and his descendants, that makes the country habitable at all, and safer than many that have their laws respected and enforced; and the popular outbreaks that in France or Italy would lead to wholesale murder, debauchery and robbery, merely repair the social fabric, and are in truth but the enforcement of the law itself, which in the letter at least is founded on just principles, and respect for the rights of all.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The San Francisco Vigilance Committee in 1856, may serve as a striking illustration of this.  For although <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:nearly ten thousand able-bodied men (a force that in an old country would represent a population of a quarter of a million), were in arms against the government itself--and that of their own creation--the rights of good citizens were uniformly respected; and their worst enemies must own, that the whole turmoil had the desired effect of purging the State of a nest of desperadoes, who levied blackmail on all outside their clique, with the keys of office and the treasury under their control.  It was not the existence of the thing itself, merely, that created for it such a great amount of local attention and world-wide notoriety, for such risings had been long familiar not only in the metropolis, but were, and still are, matters of daily occurrence throughout the length and breadth of the land, and rarely excited more than a momentary attention.  It was simply the extent of the rising, its monied influence, together with its grand conceptions, vitality, and political bearing that won it notice, not only from the local authority but even from the general government, although the latter even, would have been perfectly imbecile in quelling the outbreak, with the whole of the standing army; for noble-looking and effective as the volunteer companies of the United States undoubtedly are, when pleased to act on the outside enemies of their country, it would take much patriotism indeed, to imagine the shadow of gallantry or bravery, to hover around the scrubby looking blue-coated gentry, who promenade with the U. S. upon their knapsacks.  The greenest company of supes, in a provincial theatre, acting as ``guards,'' look like veterans in comparison with these parodies of soldiers.  Many of them walk literally wide between the legs like Falstaff's--``as if they had gyves on;'' and there is little doubt but they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The authority given to a miner's meeting, looks like a tacit understanding between the government and people, that while the former is allowed to swallow the revenues without question, the latter may govern themselves, in their own small communities, as they may think best, without fear or favor from the higher powers.  Without granting the philosophy of paying for nothing, still the miners themselves have shown themselves much more capable than their representatives.  They are authorized as a corporation, with the power of forming their own bye laws, but so much is the commission stretched, that in many camps the whole code--from stealing a shovel to a premeditated murder, is administered promptly, without consulting other courts than their own; and so simple is their method, that the variation of punishment between the two crimes, is of small moment, when characters are both bad, for a high gallows and short shrift are the usual satisfaction of the law.  Their proper power, however, does not extend beyond making laws to govern the tenure of property, and they are not allowed any power of administration; but a decision from a miner's meeting is merely appealed from, and would nearly always be useless, for the verdict of a jury from the county town would be little respected when the physical <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>In many camps Chinese and Spaniards are excluded, but as our bar had many from the free states and many foreign citizens, charity for color triumphed, and a Hottentot was admitted to equal rights with a born citizen of Washington itself.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Shortly after the recognition of the new laws, one of the miners disposed of his claim to a Chinese company, and a bill of sale was given, and the whole formula of the laws rigidly complied with.  The Chinese went diligently to work, and all went smoothly until the forenoon of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>``Some Melican men good--some no good, some bad--Chinaman likey good Melican--likey licey, no likey fighty--Chinaman buy claim--he pay money--he go workey--by and by, tree bad Melican men come and say to Chinaman, vamos! clear! or trow in river.  All tree go work China claim; Chinaman no likey, he come see you.  You go fighty tree bad Melican men, Chinaman likey you vely much, good! You go fightey--he pay you ten dollar.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>There was a death-like stillness during the interpretation, out of which I picked sufficient to inform, me that three men had taken possession of the claim which had been sold the previous day, and had won a bloodless victory by routing the fifty rightful owners.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Feeling it my duty to interfere, I posted down to the disputed territory, the Chinamen following in Indian file, but at a most respectful distance.  I found three gaunt long-haired fellows, each with a pistol in his belt and shovelling away in the most commendable style.  They paid no attention as I approached, and I was obliged to open the business myself, by informing the lankest of the party that he had committed a blunder, by going to work on ground, the property of another party.  He stopped his shovel slowly, and measured me leisurely from head to foot for a full minute before he condescended to reply.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Whar's the party?'' said he</P>
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159.sgm:<P>I replied by pointing towards the distant Celestials.  He looked attentively where I pointed for a moment, and turned his gaze on me more inquiringly than before, then with a face of the blankest surprise, he loudly addressed his nearest partner,--</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Oh, Andrew J. Pearns, come here, will you; here's a Yankee says them dratted little yaller chaps is a party, but ef I ever hearn any thing 'cept a corn-huskin go by that name afore, may I never be lost in the streets of Littlerock agin, and that's in blessed Arkansaw.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>As Andrew J., found just the same difficulty in explaining, I was obliged to make them understand as well as I was able, the necessity of their giving possession again, immediately, to the expelled ones.  But when my object was really made known to their muddy intellects, their indignation arose to its height, and I almost quailed at my own temerity, in venturing alone among such savages.  They berated me soundly for ``hanging up with colored fellers agin white folks,'' and concluded by telling me,--</P>
159.sgm:<P>``We'll skin you like a 'possum, and fat our har with your taller, ef you don't clar in a bee line whar you b'long.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>Not having any peculiar desire to experience the sylvan sport of Arkansas, performed upon my delicate frame, I withdrew a little faster perhaps than was commensurate with dignity, but not half so fast as my copper-colored friends.  As I had now undertaken the affair and had received much insult, I was determined to push the case to the utmost limit, and with this resolve proceeded to the chairman of the committee, who sent round a messenger, and at noon the whole white population were met in solemn conclave--except the filibusters.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>A committee of three was then dispatched, bearing orders from the meeting for the jumpers to withdraw, but they returned also at a rate if possible more accelerated than the recorder, bearing a refusal, coupled with an impertinent challenge to any Freemonter, to go down if they pleased, and have a free fight at rough and tumble.  This was the signal for a general turmoil, and in twenty minutes upwards of a hundred men were armed and equipped, and proceeded in regular military array to the scene of conflict.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The men of Arkansas received them with cool disdain, and it was not until they were summoned twice by the burly voice of the chairman, that they condescended to cease their labor.  He commenced by reading the article from the code, having a direct bearing on their case, and informed them of the resolution passed at the meeting.  He then pulled out his watch, and told them, that if one of their party remained on the claim at the conclusion of five minutes, he would assuredly be shot down, and advised them to collect their traps at once, and leave in peace.  Minute after minute was called out by the chairman as they expired, and still the desperate fellows continued to stand their ground, without an eye quailing, amidst a profound and deathlike stillness, only broken at intervals by the loud voice of the leader as he called out the minutes of life.  My heart beat wildly as the fourth was solemnly called out, without a motion on the part of the victims--for I knew as surely as that powder would blaze--they were dead men at the conclusion of the call, if they still retained their stubborn position.  A part of the last minute had passed, when my first antagonist coolly addressed his compeers, thus: ``Tottenham Pearch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>A theft rarely occurs in the mines themselves.  The great numbers that usually occur throughout the whole State, are perpetrated in the larger cities, and on travellers in unsettled districts.  A lock is seldom used at all on a miner's cabin, for a burglar could penetrate the chief part of them as easily as a carpet bag.  Petty larceny is committed by squaws, who trusting on the great privilege always allowed to the wearers of the petticoats in this country, sometimes take extreme liberties with flour, sugar, and provisions in the owner's absence.  Their husbands are very cautious about such things, for the same indulgence is rarely accorded to them as to their wives, and indeed did not fear prevent them from such a venture, laziness would of itself, be every way sufficient to keep them passably honest.  Many philosophers contend, that the reason for the superior energy of people in Northern climes, over those of the tropics lies in the circumstance, that spontaneous productions engender indolence, and that the very necessity for industry, in an unproductive soil, for the simple requirements of existence, stimulates to increased exertion and taste for the superfluities of life.  But the theory is at fault, sadly, among the natives of California, both with the aborigines <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Their method of trapping and cooking grasshoppers at the same time, shows much ingenuity; and is, to them at least, a pleasing and exciting pastime, and very amusing for an outsider to look at.  Half a dozen holes are dug in a clover flat--where the game abound--as close to each other as possible, and about the shape and size of an inverted beehive.  They then place closely around the holes, a ring of dried brush, which they set fire to, and then commences the hunt--the oldest patriarch of the tribe, condescending to work with the squaws, and ``fights his battles o'er again'' with all the enthusiasm of sixteen.  They commence by forming a circle round the fire, at a distance of some hundred feet.  Each is armed with a bush, with which they drive their victims before them, as they gradually contract the circle and approach the fire.  One hop through the fire, and the wings, horns and claws, are stripped off, and they drop into the holes, unable to escape from their pursuers, who then clear away the circle of flame and have a luscious banquet on the crispy crickets.  In the thick of the season, they dry the superabundance for winter use <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The squaws are often despatched with their pans, and a large horn spoon, called a <HI REND="italics">cuchara</HI>
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159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PART III.<LB>FACE OF THE COUNTRY, AGRICULTURE AND LABOR.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>The history of California has of late years become familiar to most readers, through the American newspapers, and it would be in exceeding bad taste, for me to make a repetition of the infliction upon my patient readers, by giving them State extracts, from narratives founded on fact at best, after deluding the gentle creatures with the idea of hearing an interesting retrospect of wanderings, through the length and breadth of this romantic land.  Deeming, nevertheless, that a little statistical and descriptive information, concerning the principal localities and towns, individually--places heretofore unknown almost, except in name--may prove interesting and probably more instructive than a general topographical sketch of the whole--always, and necessarily, vague and contradictory; I will endeavor to do so with as little prolixity as possible, and those who deem the subject dry or unprofitable, may either skip Part the Third, or devoutly ask for patience.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>It will be observed by any one who takes the trouble of consulting a map, and comparing the statistics of agriculture, in the various counties north and south, together with the number of inhabitants in each--that the southern portion of Alta California, possesses an overwhelming advantage, in the production of every description of vegetables and domestic animals, as well as, in the important item of females and children.  This criterion, though, of itself, will not be sufficient to form a solid judgment upon their respective merits--for the reason that the people of the south, with few exceptions, are employed in farming occupations, the other resources being but of secondary consequence, while the vilages are wide apart and unimportant in size.  In the north--on the contrary--at least one half are residents of towns, and the chief portion of the other half are miners; so that the proportion employed on farms--or ranches as they are termed--is but trifling, and the proportion of productions to the individual, with its high value, will show an exceedingly satisfactory reward to the tiller of the soil.  It would thus seem, that the upper portion of the State was thrice blessed, with a fruitful soil, mineral and commercial advantages, together with an ample supply of timber, both for home consumption and foreign supply.</P>
159.sgm:<P>But, if we examine more minutely into detail, we shall become fully convinced, that the North can never rival the South as an agricultural producer, and that the latter is especially, and providentially intended, to become the feeder of the former.  It may appear a matter of no importance in a general sense, as to which portion has the advantage in this respect, the whole territory being consolidated under one government.  But I have been thus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The mining counties are never likely, indeed, to support themselves with their present inhabitants, because that, in the aggregate, the amount of arable land is very scarce--and the consumers bear a very disproportionate majority to the producers--and as the farming land is principally confined to river flats, where the air is rank with miasma, and liable to flood each winter, the process of settling goes on but slowly, and it is not considered by the wise ones, as a very safe or profitable investment for capital or labor.  Vast tracts of land still remain available to operative farmers, and the market is mostly a fair one, while but little difficulty is likely to exist on the score of title, for the Spanish grants are but few, and present possession is almost certain to secure an undisturbed title-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>But on the whole, however, the lower portion of the State offers by far the greater inducements to families intending to settle, when the Mexican grants are confirmed, or rejected; for good land is abundant still, at nominal prices, and although produce ranges much lower in value than in the mineral country, the market is generally good, and the labor of tilling the rich virgin valleys, is comparatively light.  On account of the large compact tracts, settlements and society are fast improving, and communication by rapid means of transport, will grow apace on these rich level plains.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The climate of the main portion of California, may be reckoned, at least, as among the most delightful on the globe.  For, except on a few overflowed grounds--where bilious diseases are prevalent--consumptions, rheumatism, fevers, and every sort of epidemic, are almost unknown, except through undue exposure.  Bright sunshine in a sky like Italy's, and healthy breezes, are sureties for three-fourths of the year.  The remainder of the season is variable, but since the heavy freshets of '52, it has never rained in one winter, more than sufficient to moderately moisten the soil and supply the miners with water for sluicing.  Early in March, the bleak summits of the hills begin to clothe themselves with the richest verdure, and the cattle hie to their tops, where the first fresh grass begins to spring.  They then gradually descend towards the plains, as the sun makes hay on the high grounds, and at last are driven to the swails and <HI REND="italics">tules</HI>
159.sgm:.  But they in their turn scorch and wither, beneath the uninterrupted glare of the sun, and the continued months of unmoistened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>A large party of us once arrived at a lonely valley, in the county of Los Angeles, at which we intended to remain some days.  The horses were tired and hungry; so, after watering them, we made each fast to a picket, stuck in the ground--with a rope twelve feet in length--and supplied them with a small quantity of barley, for the ground looked bare, and black as a freshly ploughed field--offering I thought one of the most discouraging prospects imaginable to a famished horse.  In the morning, I proceeded to my steed, with his breakfast, but was extremely surprised at the manner in which he kicked up his heels, and the ineffable scorn with which he treated my hospitable advances.  The ground was covered with something that looked like coarse black dust, and as I watched the inclination of my companion's nose, I saw him move his lips, as though he was going through the form of eating, in actual mockery.  Surprised at his actions, I seized a handful of the dust, and after an examination of its nature, found it to be a very superior description of clover seed, and for many miles in every direction, the ground was literally covered--to the depth of nearly an inch--with this excellent provender, the straw having completely crumbled into powder, under the influence of the long dry summer.  A herd of Spanish cattle, that I saw immediately after, proved their good cheer, by their sleek hides and ruminations, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>There is great similarity in the regular variations of the seasons throughout the State, and the great apparent differences to be found, owe their origin much more to local causes than to latitude.  The southern valleys have of course the least changes in temperature, and preserve an extraordinary degree of mildness the major portion of the year.  The coldest season is in March, about the first cessation of the rains.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The lands lying west of the coast range, and those bordering on the extensive bay of San Francisco, are greatly subjected to cold N. W. winds throughout the summer season, and strangely enough, the winter is generally pleasanter throughout.  Many portions of the north have great extremes of heat and cold, occasioned by the great and sudden elevation of the hills; and it is not uncommon, to see the herbage springing up in the valleys, green and fresh, while twenty miles up in the mountains, ditches are frozen, and all mining operations brought to a stand, with snow ten feet deep.</P>
159.sgm:<P>I append to these short remarks--touching the climate--a few meteorological observations I made at San Luis Obispo, during part of the months of January and February, 1854; and as this place is nearly midway of the State, the table may give some idea of a California winter--although, as a general thing, the climate inland is more liable to sudden changes, and greater extremes of heat and cold.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>As to the quantity and quality of horticultural productions to the acre, they are seldom equalled, and probably never excelled elsewhere; and most descriptions of fruit--where a trial has been made--grow with all the luxuriance of a tropical climate; amongst the vegetables that grow with peculiar excellence, may be mentioned particularly--barley, potatoes, onions, cabbage, melons, cucumbers, tomatoes, &amp;c., and indeed, almost every description of garden vegetables.  But a regular and complete system of irrigation, is imperatively required to conduct horticulture with success, except on the low unhealthy intervals of the Sacramento river.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Santa Clara is perhaps the most important agricultural county in the country, for great progress had already been made, under the surveillance of the old Mexican priests, prior to its annexation to the American Republic.  Its productions are already extensive, but a serious drawback to its prosperity exists in the large Mexican grants that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>It must be acknowledged, though, that many of the people have conscientious scruples touching the propriety of taking possession of that which is not theirs, and in consequence, great tracts of the richest alluvial deposit, continue to be a wilderness, except at intervals where some hardy Ishmael has dared to pitch his tent, and shelter his household gods, in defiance of all prohibition, with his stout heart and brawny arms his only title.</P>
159.sgm:<P>In those portions where the titles are indisputable, by coming into the possession of Americans, whether by purchase or matrimony--the latter seems in most favor--the amount of improvement is wondrous and beautiful.  The tillable land--like most in the State--consists of a valley, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>A mission was early made in Santa Clara by the first settlers, and as whites as well as Indians began to occupy the attention of the worthy fathers, two chapels of ease were soon erected for the accommodation of distant worshippers, during the severities of the winter season.  There are now two bustling little towns at these chapels, and the chief part of the settlements are in their immediate neighborhood.  The road from the little town of Santa Clara, to the city--or <HI REND="italics">Puebla</HI>
159.sgm:<P>There are many vineyards in this county producing grapes of delicious flavor; pears and peaches, too, are plentiful, but there are other places much excelling it in this branch of agriculture.  Its population exceeds 10,000, and its greatest productions in 1855, were the following:  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Santa Cruz county is divided from Santa Clara, by a long spur of the coast range, about ten miles in breadth.  This ridge provides excellent pasture, and supplies in profusion, building and fencing material for both counties.  The principal timber consists of pine, and a gigantic species of cedar, called red wood.  It is extremely light when dry, takes a very smooth finish, and scarcely shrinks at all, but it is rather soft, and too easily split, to make very good floors or furniture.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Santa Cruz has probably the most uniform climate in the State, and although in close proximity to San Francisco, might almost seem in another State.  It is very small, and consists merely of a narrow strip upon the coast, from three to ten miles wide, and above 30 in length, but contains more arable ground than others of ten times its extent.  It has been styled by all admirers of California scenery, the garden of the world, and it really does appear to bear upon its youthful face, the world's first fresh fragrance, as it came from its creator's hand.  Flowers, blue sky, and sunshine, continue almost in an endless cycle, and the mild breezes of the Pacific, temper the harshness of every season.</P>
159.sgm:<P>This circumstance gives it a great pre-eminence over all the other great agricultural valleys, the principal of which are--Suisun, Napa, San Jose, Los Angeles, and the long reaching flats of the Sacramento and San Joaquin.  A frost is rarely seen at any season, and snow is unknown, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The county of San Joaquin, occupies a portion of the great valley of the same name, which lies between the mountains of the Sierra Nevada, and the Cast Range proper, running in length nearly N.W. and S.E., and averaging in breadth, about 40 miles.  The soil for a mile or two back from the rivers, is extremely fertile, but the intermediate spaces are gravelly, and chiefly unfit for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Barley, for feed, is the staple production on the river flats, and eighty bushels to the acre is by no means an uncommon crop.  Potatoes weighing 8lb, floury and sound, are plentiful; and cabbages and onions are grown in profusion, and sold at moderate prices, but the teamsters' and retailers' profits more than treble their value before they come into the hands of the consumers in the mines.  Salmon and other fish are caught in abundance in all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:rivers, and the plains are covered with wild horses, elk, deer, antelope, and numberless varieties of feathered game.  And although hunters are numerous, they have not materially decreased their numbers; but so wild are they, that it requires great skill and experience to prosecute the calling with success.  Many native Californians and Mexicans, employ themselves in catching wild horses, or <HI REND="italics">Mustangs</HI>
159.sgm:, by driving them into traps or <HI REND="italics">corrals</HI>
159.sgm: --a sort of pound--where they <HI REND="italics">lasso</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The principal streams are the San Joaquin, Moquelumne, Calaveras, and Stanislaus.  The San Joaquin is navigable to Stockton, and much higher, during freshets, and is the grand trunk that receives nearly all the rivers of the country, south of San Francisco bay.  The Stanislaus, which separates this county from Tuolumne, has been very rich in its upper portion, and contains much profitable mining, even ten miles from its mouth; paying regularly in fine gold, so low as the foot hills, from $2 to $4 per day, to the hand.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Stockton, Castoria, and Knight's Ferry are the only towns.  Stockton was at one time the third in the State, but now contains only about 4000 inhabitants.  It was at one time a depot of a fur company, and then occupied by a Mr. Webber, but was not permanently settled until the first year of the gold discoveries.  It has been a great sufferer from fires and freshets, and it is most likely from this cause that few importing merchants reside in it; and goods from the interior pass through from San Francisco, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Castoria--sometimes called French Camp--is also on a slough, and was an old post of the Hudson Bay Company.  It is a small but very lively town, particularly during the rainy season, from the great superiority of its roads.  The whole population of this county is about 8000.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The County of Napa is convenient to San Francisco, and contains the most beautiful and healthy valleys of the northern counties.  It is fast settling up, though the Indians as yet form the greater moiety of the population.--They are, however, principally domesticated, by employing them on ranches, and very useful they prove as herds.--Their remuneration is not very much, for as none of them are troubled with the luxuriant ideas of their brethren in the gold fields, they have never had the opportunity of making themselves useful at other employments.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Napa supplies the markets in San Francisco bay, with large quantities of produce--barley, wheat, and beef are the most important.  About $40,000 are invested in quicksilver mining, but the gold placers are not very profitable.  There is a mountain of very strange appearance near the coast, standing quite aloof from any range--it is visible more than 50 miles off.  There are great numbers of hot sulphur springs in Napa, many of which are said to possess extraordinary medicinal powers, and are much resorted to, by invalids, from all parts of the country.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The Napa river, after running in a southerly course through the centre of the valley bearing its name, empties <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Sacramento, which contains the second city in the State, is bounded on its Western side by the river of the same name, which is second in importance to but one on the entire western coast of North or South America.  Its resources are completely agricultural, for there are no mines within its boundaries that will defray the cost of working.  It has 10,000 head of horned cattle, and 5000 mules.  Horticulture is carried on much more extensively than elsewhere, and its productions of onions, cabbage, carrots, parsnips and turnips, are nearly equal to all the rest of the State.  Even so early as 1854, there were 307 acres in melons alone, and their value, together with the other productions in the market, amounted to more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:half a million of dollars.  The arable land is low and rich, requiring no irrigation; but the air is extremely unwholesome.  The city of Sacramento, to which the river is navigable for large ships, is intended for a perfect checkerboard, as the streets have been surveyed, but in consequence of the dilatoriness of the people in building, when compared with the expertness of the engineers, the whole board was completed before the former had filled up a decent double corner.  The city as now existing forms a T; a few streets parallel with the river and levee, forming the top, and these, bissected by two main streets of great length, complete the figure.  The streets are all numbered eastwardly from the levee, 1, 2, 3, &amp;c., but although laid out to nearly a hundred, they exist only in a fertile imagination after 12th street, which consists of a pig-sty and hay stack placed <HI REND="italics">tete-a-tete</HI>
159.sgm:.  North and South they are named alphabetically, and although they are all particularly short, they already nearly consume the twenty-six letters.  J, is a noble street, a mile and a half long; both it and the levee, or 1st street, were at one time decorated with live oak trees through their whole extent, but during the universal license enjoyed about the periods of flood and fire, some of the free and enlightened ones took the liberty of appropriating them all for culinary purposes.  There was something very refreshing in their appearance, particularly in summer, as they dotted and cooled the surface of the thirsty prairie.  Greenly, and luxuriantly, they spread their gnarled and scraggy branches over the fevered citizens that hurried past.  Each whispering zephyr that faintly winged its flight along the thirsty soil, seemed revivified and rustled once more into life by the hardy old veterans.  The city seems to have almost owed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The original Contra Costa, lies immediately opposite the city of San Francisco, on the north side of the bay.  It has more than doubled its population in the last three years.  It has been lately divided into three counties, and their fruitful soil, together with their admirable position to a good market, hold out great expectations for its future advancement.  The arable land all lies on the slope, between the coast range and the bay, and is of a very superior description.  Settlers keep pouring in, probably faster than in any other of the agricultural counties, and villages are springing up on every point of advantage on the bay open to steam navigation.  The hills on the background are filled with redwood, where shingle makers and rail splitters have heretofore found lucrative employment, but they are now thinning it out very fast.  The land, although good, is not adapted to fruit, or the more delicate species of vegetables, on account of the harsh winds that blow constantly from the bay during the summer.  The principal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:streams are the Jacento, San Ramon, San Pablo, and San Leandro, but they are all unimportant.  The towns are Martinez--the seat of justice--Squatter Town, and Oakland.  Oakland is delightfully situated on a little harbor of the bay, and in hourly communication by steam, with the metropolis, a dwelling and watering place for the wealthier citizens, as Brooklyn is to New York.  It is by no means uncommon to see several hundred acres in one <HI REND="italics">potatoe-patch</HI>
159.sgm:<P>Monterey, which joins Santa Clara on the South, is altogether agricultural and pastoral, but it is much covered by old Spanish grants.  It has about 4000 inhabitants, two thirds of whom are white, and its surface covers about 400 square miles.  It is naturally divided into three districts--separated from each other by ridges of mountains, but they all communicate by passes, and constitute portions of the main valley, that extends the whole length of the State.  Salinas and Carmel extend to the coast, San Juan is in the interior.  Each of these contained a mission for many years, orchards of pear trees were planted, and much land brought into a state of cultivation by domesticated Indians.  The towns are San Juan and Monterey.  The former is a very sleepy little place in the midst of plenty.  Monterey, 80 miles south of San Francisco, was at one time the capital of both the Californias, and the largest town, but has made very little progress since annexation; and its <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The bay and scenery of Monterey is the prettiest on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:the coast.  The harbor, though small, has tolerable shelter, and is a port of entry.  But the grass grows in the bonded stores of the custom house; the collector's time is consumed amidst the click of billiard balls; the doctor's, in prescribing cogniac--to himself; the Nantucket harbor-master's in watching the <HI REND="italics">sparm</HI>
159.sgm:<P>San Louis Obispo, lies south of the county of Monterey, and borders on the Pacific; it has no mines, and agriculture is in a very backward state.  Of a surface of nearly 600,000 acres, only 50,000 are unclaimed, and the white inhabitants number but 400.  The ground is held in 37 Ranches under Mexican titles, and is fit for little except pasturage, to which it is best adapted.  It is so inconvenient to market, that the rightful owners have not been much annoyed by squatters, and the name of American is much less detested by the native Californians, than in other counties, where they have experienced a greater share of persecution.  It contains 50,000 head of cattle and horses, and has a port or rather a roadstead on the coast, but no harbor.  The heavy sea that continually thunders in from the wide reach of the ocean, even in the calmest weather, makes the calls of the steamer rare, on account of the extreme danger of landing freight through the rolling surf.  There was a mission formed here at an early period, nine miles from the coast in a very pretty locality.  The lands pertaining thereto, have, of course, been confiscated, but a small village--the only one in the county--has sprung up around the ruins of the ancient chapel.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara--containing, chiefly, portions of the coast range--extends to the coast, and is extremely mountainous.  It has a pretty little town bearing its name, on a small roadstead, at which steamers touch in their weekly trips between San Francisco and San Diego.  The soil is not generally well suited to cultivation, nor even susceptible of irrigation, from its extremely rough and uneven surface.  It is called, however, one of the best grazing counties, and supports enormous herds of cattle, but it is capable of feeding, naturally, five times its present amount.  It has several streams emptying into the ocean from the mountains, but so near does the range run to the coast, that none of them has length or volume, sufficient to dignify it by the name of river.  The Santa Barbara is the largest, which, after running a length of forty-five miles from its source, discharges itself into the ocean.  San Buenaventura has a course of thirty-two miles, and enters the Sea, not far from the ancient mission of San Buenaventura.  Santa Inez is upwards of sixty miles in length, its mouth is within a few miles of Point Concepcion, the principal land mark and light house on the whole coast.  The mountains in this country, frequently attain the height of 4500 feet, and one of them contains a small volcano, which smokes at long intervals.  The sea in this neighborhood abounds with many varieties of excellent fish, among which may be enumerated corvinas, blackfish, mackarel, crawfish, sardines, clams, and oysters.</P>
159.sgm:<P>But little improvement can be hoped for in this region.  The Spanish grants cover a great surface, and their old habits and customs predominate over all others.  Even the settlers from the land of enlightenment have retrograded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>It is really astonishing to witness the extreme interest taken by every class in the community, and the money that changes purses, on the result of an engagement between two mean looking speckled fowls.  From the richest Ranchero to the humblest peon--the priest, and his hearers, all throng to the soul exciting combat.  The <HI REND="italics">padre</HI>
159.sgm:<P>San Diego, although of small mineral or agricultural value, is nevertheless possessed of many interesting and important points of attraction.  Embracing, as it does, within its boundaries, the southern extremity of the State, and in absolute contact with the lower peninsula--it is therefore the most thoroughly Mexican, of all the counties in Alta California.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The face of the country may be set down as three-fourths barren, sandhills in the front, reaching to the coast, interspersed with some fertile valleys of no great extent; and in the rear of a great sandy desert, many miles in length, reaching to the river Colorado, which empties itself into the Gulf of California, at its extreme northern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:terminus.  The bleak hills in the front, have not a single tree upon their slopes to give variety or break the universal sameness of the landscape.  The only appearance of vegetable life, are two or three varieties of dwarf bushes, or <HI REND="italics">chapparel</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The town of San Diego--contemptible as it now appears, was at one time the second in importance, and although possessing a fine little harbor for the reception of small craft, it has received less accession by emigration, than any other of the small towns on the coast, between it and San Francisco, a distance of 500 miles.</P>
159.sgm:<P>On examining the town, the increase makes itself plainly visible, the light airy Yankee style of architecture, contrasting strongly with the heavy jail-like <HI REND="italics">adobes</HI>
159.sgm:<P>By the way--although in possession of all the less prepossessing attributes of their ancestors, as far as haughtiness, idleness, and bigotry, are concerned--they possess but little of the heroic disposition and fine features of the old Castilian.  And, indeed, they approach so much nearer, in manners, features, and complexion, to the aborigines themselves, as will lead to the conclusion that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The old town of San Diego, with a population of not more than 1500, can still boast of its <HI REND="italics">plaza</HI>
159.sgm:, and its priest.  The latter, when I saw him, was a fine looking old specimen of a race now nearly extinct.  His broad, bow-window figure, showed a strong partiality for the good things of this life; but the kindly and reverend expression of his handsome countenance, bespoke the man with conscience unsullied, and mind at peace with his maker and fellow men.  It was quite a pleasing and interesting sight, when the <HI REND="italics">padre</HI>
159.sgm:<P>San Diego is a favorite resort for horse stealers and suspicious looking <HI REND="italics">greasers</HI>
159.sgm:, or half-breeds, chiefly from its remoteness and the uncertain communication with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>``And,'' said he, ``old age itself, will not procure me a solitary patient; for in place of expiring in a christian-like manner, in the respectable bosom of pills and phials, I believe the unconscionable heathens gradually contract themselves into a dry rattle box, and take wing on a southeaster.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>There are plenty of shrivelled up Indians to be seen tottering along, who have forgotten their age, but who were men and women, and took instruction under the Mission priests, more than seventy years ago, and look like the dried corpses, from the Capuchins of Palermo, revivified to rebuke and warn the people of this wicked little town.</P>
159.sgm:<P>But emigrants--however delighted at the salubrity of the climate--are mostly in search of something more, even though the Heavens were laughing gas; and as there is little else to offer here, the mushroom settlement, made during the '49 excitement, has remained with little increase, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Los Angeles-- <HI REND="italics">Anglice</HI>
159.sgm:<P>It is fully expected that land will soon be purchased at moderate rates; for to effect this object, the legislature will--it is though--lay on a heavy tax.  This will most likely compel the <HI REND="italics">Rancheros</HI>
159.sgm: to dispose of their property, from their inability to pay high rates, on vast tracts which are used only for pasture.  It is generally the extremity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Nearly the whole of the country is applicable to agriculture, and much of it is extremely rich, and it will doubtless become in time, of great importance as a producer.  At the present time, vast herds of stock roam at large over the great treeless and undulating plains.  The soil is deep, and free from stone, and produces an excellent and unlimited supply of wild clover of an exceedingly nutritious nature.  But the vineyards and orchards in and around the city, are the main support, and their productions are the staple exports of the region.  The city of Los Angeles contains a population in the neighborhood of 6000--more than half the people of the county--and is at the present time, the most respectable and flourishing of all the Spanish towns in the State.  It has--like all the rest--a large plaza or square, from whence runs the main street, which finally forks and becomes two--leaving a block of buildings between, ending in a point like the delta of a river.  The remainder of the streets look as though they followed the sinuosities of cattle tracks, and are often concluded by a dead wall, or the impenetrable leafy screens of a vineyard.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The houses are, with few exceptions, built of mud-brick, roofed with asphaltum, and are extremely cool and comfortable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Far away to the west may be seen the distant ocean, constantly covered in the dry season by a thin white haze, that gives distant objects an indistinct and spectral appearance.  The broad open plain between, is dotted with countless cattle, but no habitation of man is visible for miles on miles, save a small mound like a molehill, from whence issues a thin column of smoke, near a fringe of wood that borders on the far off river.  A long ``bull team'' guided by some strapping hoosier, flounders along, with freight from the port of San Pedro, half hid at intervals by the clouds of dust raised by the hoofs of his wearied cattle.  The smart stage passes him like a whirlwind, rattles through the town in slashing style and deposits its occupants at the door of the hotel; the miserable wretches unrecognizable by their nearest and dearest, beneath the thick coating of red dust they have acquired in their transit, which settles impartially on every thread, and fills each pore of their tender cuticles.</P>
159.sgm:<P>But the change from the shrivelled country to the fresh greenness and sparkling brooks of the vineyards contiguous to the city, is like the spell of an enchanter.  Every sylvan scene of rural felicity would appear realized, when first entering the green and shady lanes, that commence to show themselves within a radius of four miles.  These lanes intersect each other in every possible direction, like a Rosamond's bower, and experience is essential <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The number of vines in Los Angeles and its suburbs is 750,000, and the average yield is 5lbs.  of grapes to each vine.  About two million pounds are annually shipped to San Francisco, from the port of San Pedro.  The remainder are partly consumed in the neighborhood, and partly in the manufacture of wine and brandy; large quantities of which are made annually, but are as yet principally kept in store to acquire age.  The Champagne is famous for its effervescence, fruity flavor, and elevating properties.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Beef cattle are worth from $20 to $30 per head, and pay well for driving in large droves to the northern markets.  Hemp and tobacco were formerly raised to some extent, and shipped to Mazatlan and San Blas in Mexico; but of late years their chief attention has been turned to articles of home consumption.  There is a very extraordinary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>There is a little island twenty miles from the coast, in a south-westerly direction from San Pedro, named Catalina.  It is very barren except in a few scattered valleys, and its productions little more than a coarse stunted grass, and its general uninviting surface would seem to mark it out as afflicted with perpetual sterility.  Yet some experimentalist unknown, but supposed to be Captain Cook, landed a few goats on the stony and inhospitable island.  For many a long year they existed and increased their numbers, free and unharrassed by dogs, and the knives of butchers.  But, alas, for them! A speculating son of Esculapius, finding time hang heavily on his hands, took a trip from the neighboring coast to see if something would ``turn up,'' and as his eye fell upon the bearded fathers of the flock, the desire of dominion grew up in his breast, and he at once constituted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Tulare is a large territory in the south, extending from the coast countries to the eastern limits of the State.  It is, generally speaking, a vast and dreary wilderness, covered with a thick coarse rush called <HI REND="italics">Tule</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The county of Marin is agricultural, and contains about 1500 persons, 1000 of whom are white.  The amount of its productions and invested capital, will compare favorably with many containing a much greater population.  The amount of capital invested in brick-making and lumber alone, may be estimated at $300,000.  About 3000 acres are in cultivation, and the climate proves very kind to yams and various species of fruit, of which latter it will soon be an extensive producer.  There are no minerals, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>San Francisco county, although of medium extent, consists mainly of the Metropolis itself, there being but 2000 inhabitants in the county, outside the city limits.  It is but proper to observe though, that the fathers have had no cramped idea concerning the future dimensions of the infant city.  The map to be found in the various land agent's offices, may well challenge comparison with the proudest of antiquity.  It might not, however, eventually be injurious to the interests of a purchaser, to take a look at the premises in question, before he ratify the bargain--that is, if he can find it--for lots at moderate rates, are, not improbably, outside the anchorage ground, or perhaps three or four miles back in the sand hills of the interior.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Mission Ward, which consists of the old Mission Dolores, contains 70 or 80 houses, with the usual quantum of hotels.  It is a neat little village and is mainly supported by the rich gardens in the neighborhood.  In reality, it is nearly three miles from the city, although contained within the corporation limits; and its old church, green glades, flowery hedges, and prattling brooks, form an enchanting contrast to the dusty jammed up streets of the city, and the bleak sand hills that intervene.  With these advantages, and an excellent plank road, it is, of course a great resort of pleasure seekers; and on Sunday, in particular, the road is a perfect stream of omnibusses, gigs and horsemen.  The latter are chiefly supplied by livery stables; and the gallant greys are taxed to their utmost, in order to make the conscience of the rider perfectly clear that good value has been received for his cash.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The range of mountains, commonly called the coast range, runs lengthways of this county.  The Mexicans gave it the more poetical name of <HI REND="italics">Sierra Morino</HI>
159.sgm:<P>Solano is a noble agricultural county; and its convenience to the bay gives it advantages of no mean importance, in the matter of shipping to the most advantageous markets, with good despatch.  More than 10,000 acres are in cultivation, and farming pays well; stock of various kinds is plentiful, and more than $50,000 are employed in quartz and placer mining, in the coast range.  The principal towns are Vallejo and Benicia.  The former was at one time the capital of the State.  The legislature first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Benicia is a half dead little town at the mouth of the Sacramento, where there are dry docks; and the large ocean steamships coaling, and refitting, aid materially in keeping it in existence.  There are four very rich valleys in this county, that contain the chief portion of the arable land, viz:--Suscol, Sulphur Springs, Green, and Suisun.  Suscol lies west of a range of hills, bearing the same name, and extends to the northern boundary of the county; from Vallejo it is rich, and contains more than thirty square miles; it is washed by Napa bay, and wild oats at present cover a great reach of its surface.  Sulphur Spring, running from Suisun bay through the Suscol hills, is both well watered and fertile.  Green Valley, as its name implies, is covered much of the year with verdure; it contains ten square miles, and is a rich clover pasture.  Suisun, the richest and most extensive, contains forty square miles, but is completely covered by a Spanish grant.  It opens out on the east into the Sacramento valley, and has the most salubrious climate on that unwholesome river.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>Mariposa covers an immense extent of territory, containing within its boundaries the present limit of the southern mines, as well as a great surface of tillable land.  Its resources as yet, however, have been but sparingly developed, principally because its streams are small, and are quite dry for a large portion of the year.  And besides, its mines are not of so rich a description as to counterbalance the expense and loss of time incurred by travelling from place to place.  It probably contains the greatest number of quartz leads of any other county, and great numbers of wealthy companies, have lately engaged in the enterprise, which to all appearance is very flattering.  Mariposa is the county town.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Siskiyou is both an agricultural and mining county, but neither are of any great importance.  It is awkwardly situated, and its resources but little known.  Its population may be estimated at 3000.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Mendochino has a population of 500, but only 300 are white.  It has little good land unoccupied, but has great resources in lumbering, and possesses many excellent saw mills.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Yolo is separated from Sacramento county, by the river Sacramento, and extends along its banks a distance of forty miles.  Its northern boundary extends to ten miles above its junction with the Feather River.  It consists mostly of tule land back from the river, and very difficult of being reclaimed.  The land along the river bank consists of intervales, and is a very rich deposit.  It has great advantages for raising stock; but the large freshets that occur annually, and sweep away houses, cattle, and all descriptions of property, hinder greatly the development of its resources.  But the baneful misama which pervades <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Several little towns have been laid out, but they have all fallen short of the projectors' ideas; the only one having the least appearance of prosperity, is Washington, immediately opposite to Sacramento city, to which it communicates by a steam ferry.  Cache Creek, in the north, is on a small river of the same name.  Fremont, Cottonwood, Merrit, and Putah, never were of any importance, and are now almost deserted: and the great barnlike hotel, with which each is graced, calls up no romantic sympathy for its decay, for these horrid little towns are withered before they ripened, and antiquity alone can give sublimity to a ruin.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The population of this county is mostly native American, from the Western States--a class, that are, perhaps, the best adapted of any, to endure the trials and vexations of a dismal swamp.  The population was three years ago 1500, but will now scarcely number 1000, ten per cent of whom are females.  About 5000 acres of land are cultivated, and the capital employed in gardening, boating, and other purposes, exceed $100,000.  The mountains are the coast range; and there are three romantic little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Calaveras, in the heart of the southern mines, has not more than $20,000 invested in agriculture; but is so well timbered, the saw mills alone have cost $100,000.  On account of the large mining population which it contains, coupled with its own non-productive powers, merchandize is a heavy and lucrative business; no less a sum than one million and a quarter of dollars being invested in this channel.  About half a million is employed in quartz; and the money invested in other descriptions of mining is very great, for it possesses within its boundaries, perhaps the richest portion of what are called the southern mines.  Moquelumne Hill is the county town, and issues a rabid little democratic newspaper, that has been the means of inspiring the people more than once, to destroy water ditches and flumes, when rates were not sufficiently moderate to meet their views.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The town lies one mile south of the river, whose name it bears, and divides it from the neighboring county of Amador.  It is built on a hill, at the head of a ravine, which extends to the south many miles, and has proved very rich.  But the most important diggings, have been the bed of the river, and the hills in the immediate neighborhood.  On one in particular--overhanging the town--the shafts have been sunk so close to each other, it strongly resembles an enormous grave yard; and is completely drifted out on the ledge, a depth in many places of more than a hundred feet.  Ten miles south of Moquelumne Hill, is the pretty village of San Andreas, on the main road leading past the Big Tree, to Utah and the Mormons.  The diggings in the immediate vicinity of this place, have been worked out chiefly, as they were originally shallow; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:but its central locality, between the branches of the Calaveras, helps to support the town, which contains 20 stores, 42 liquor shops, and 3 places of worship, together with a little blue journal of Conservative principles, named the <HI REND="italics">Independent</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The town consists of a triangle, formed by its three streets; one is occupied by French, Spanish, and other natives of Continental Europe--one by the Chinese--and the main one by Americans, Jews, and Britishers; and the stores and saloons in each, are chiefly patronized by their own people.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Vallecito, south of San Andreas, is well supplied with water, and produces much gold during the summer season.  Murphy's Camp is a thriving business little place, and is situated nine miles north of Vallecito.  Angel's Camp has taken a great start lately, on account of tremendous quartz discoveries, which have been the means of drawing in much capital from other places, and it bids fair, from present appearances, to totally eclipse all the other camps in the county.  Want of water has been a great drawback to the resources of this county, but the ditches are now numerous and good.  The principal one is named the Table Mountain Ditch, which commands all the camps just mentioned, and gives a plentiful supply for eight months in the year, at the rate of $6 per day to the sluice stream.  As the diggings are now principally quartz and tunnels, the miners can employ themselves advantageously in piling up earth, in readiness for the rising of the stream.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>There are many good ditches around Moquelumne hill, but their most profitable days are over.</P>
159.sgm:<P>There is another large ditch which takes its source from the Stanislaus, and gives a plentiful stream for the whole year.  It supplies all the miners on the lower portion of the river, and is calculated to irrigate the plains of the San Joaquin, as soon as the mines along its course are exhausted; but this cannot occur for many years to come.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The principal bars on this river are, Byrne's Ferry, Six Mile Bar, Two Mile Bar, and Knights' Ferry, and indeed the banks of this stream pay small wages, the whole way through the foot hills, and even far into the plains.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Some of the trees in this country are supposed to be the largest in the world.  A bark section of one veteran was packed and despatched to the New York Crystal Palace.  Its dimensions are as follows:--circumference at the ground 96 feet--4 feet above the ground, 84 feet--14 feet above the ground, 64 feet--height 307 feet, and the bark 13 inches thick, and its age estimated by the number of rings, 3000 years.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The county of Amador on the north, originally a portion of Calaveras, contains some excellent farming valleys, as well as good mines, but as yet they have not been much worked, from the extreme scarcity of water.  Jackson, Drytown, Volcano, and Butte--situated at the foot of a remarkable conical hill--are quite lively places, during the rush of the winter season.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Tuolumne county, lying south of Calaveras, is divided from it by the large river Stanislaus, and is bounded on the south by the Tuolumne river, which rivals the Stanislaus in size and richness.  It is next to Calaveras in importance, and contains the two largest towns in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:southern mines.  It has a population verging on 30,000, and 2000 acres in cultivation, but agriculture is of very secondary importance, and never likely to be very profitable.  The annual value of its agricultural productions do not exceed $100,000, while the money invested in mining, cannot be less than three millions.  The principal towns are Sonora--the county town--Columbia, Springfield, Jamestown, Shaw's Flat, and Chinese Camp--all of them included within a radius of five miles.  Sonora is a large, straggling, ugly place, on the bank of Wood's creek, which was, at an early period, very rich, but it is now exhausted, and the chief of the ravines are too high in the mountains to pay well.  It is, nevertheless, rather a flourishing place, earning its success partly by being the seat of justice, and partly by its convenience to numerous groves of excellent timber; and the saw mills of Sonora and its neighborhood, supply the chief portion of the people throughout the country.  Columbia, four miles from Sonora, is a large, well built, flourishing place, and the deep diggings in its district will make it important for years to come.  Springfield, two miles from Columbia, is a small but very prosperous village.  Shaw's Flat is an extended village, nearly two miles long--all deep diggings, and pay well.  Jamestown, on Wood's creek, was at one time of some importance, but has rather retrograded in the last three years.  Chinese Camp is the head quarters for natives of the Celestial Empire, but has also many white inhabitants.  The mining laws of this camp, are the most peculiar in the State, and are the glory of all monopolists.  The paying ground consists of surface diggings of many hundred acres, varying in depth from one foot to ten, and the size of a claim is only 20 feet square, or 400 square feet--a space that in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:many cases could be worked out in a day.  But the beauty of the law lies in the proviso, that you are not necessarily confined to the dimensions of one claim, but may <HI REND="italics">locate</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The table mountain is the greatest natural curiosity in this country, and has excited much attention for the two last years, both from miners and scientific men, from some rich discoveries of placers in its interior.</P>
159.sgm:<P>It first commences to show itself at a point above Columbia, and retains its name and natural characteristics, clearly and distinctly, to its termination, in a steep bluff at the foot hills which border the valley of the San Joaquin.  The length of the mountain is about 40 miles, running nearly due east and west, and it varies in breadth from five miles to a hundred yards.  Its surface is a perfect plain, chiefly elevated above the surrounding hills, through which it takes its course, meandering like a river.  The top is strewed over with loose rock, extremely hard, and strongly resembling sea coal cinder, and the strata or crust surface is a solid mass of the same material, more than fifty feet thick, at many points.  In many places it crosses the river, and again returns, leaving great chasms many hundred feet deep, through which the river hurries in its fury.  Its face, whether to the river on the north, or the low hills on the south, presents a perpendicular wall, often from five to seven hundred feet high, excepting at a few well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>But our interest in Table Mountain, ends not here--a theme of greater wonder lies buried in the donjons deep of this mighty tumulus--what imagination could have conceived, that at the foundation of this tremendous mass, there rolls a silent yet rapid river--cool and clear, unmolested by aught that breathes? No fishes glide amid its pearly depths, nor on its ripple does wild bird dip its wing, nor look its food.  For ages has the still stream pursued its course, hundreds of feet beneath the ken of living thing, and fed the ocean secretly from its unknown source.  But a prospecting miner broke the spell by making rich discoveries in a tunnel.  Great excitement followed; and in a short time many hundred tunnels were in operation, and large sums were expended; but as yet, little has been achieved, though the chief portion of them continue sanguine, and claims are valued at large sums.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Stanislaus county, south of Tuolumne, is small and unimportant, but some new ditches lately introduced, have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:greatly added to its consequence.  The most important camp is low in the foot hills, and bears the name of <HI REND="italics">La Grange</HI>
159.sgm:, or French Bar, on the Tuolumne river.  It is now the seat of justice, which was originally fixed at Empire City, and was, two years ago, a portion of Tuolumne.  It is situated on the south fork, and has a population of 1500, in a distance of one mile.  The upper or new town, the smallest but now most prosperous portion, has two respectable hotels, twenty stores, and a shoal of lawyers and doctors, who appear a mild and subdued race, and easily approachable, even by the vulgar, through the prevailing medium of a fancy drink.  The town is built on a broad level shelf that projects into the river, and altogether presents a most eligible position.  There are very rich diggings on the second table from the river; in some places it actually has paid 25 cents to the pan, from the surface to the bedrock, a distance of 50 feet.  A man with a hydraulic power and sluices properly placed, could in such ground, wash out $2000 per day; but diggings so rich, rarely hold out for any length of time.  Tunneling is going on very extensively.  The <HI REND="italics">dirt</HI>
159.sgm:<P>There is a petrified tree at La Grange, with a trunk 14 feet in diameter.  It makes its appearance in the mouth of a tunnel, and grain, growth, and outlines, are unmistakeably and distinctly visible.  The remainder of this county is only adapted for farming and grazing, and much good soil borders on the main river.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Mercedes is the county south of Stanislaus, and containing some placers, but they are not generally considered valuable.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Sutter county, on the Feather river, is all a plain; much of it is unreclaimable tule, but the banks of the river are a rich bottom, and produces a large return; I have seen peaches brought from Hock farm, weighing half a pound, grown on trees only three years old.  The population is only about 700; more than half of whom are Indians, in a state of semi-civilization, that is, they wear white men's old breeches, and drink firewater whenever it comes in their way.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Placer county, in the northern mines, has a population of more than 20,000, and contains some of the oldest mining camps in the country.  Although some have of late years ``caved in.'' fresh discoveries have been made, even faster than the old ones have become exhausted.  Illinois Town and Michigan Bluffs, are the most important new towns.  They are constantly increasing, and the deep diggings will support a further increase for many years.  Coon Creek, Auburn, Ophirville, and Rattlesnake, have been among the richest camps in all the mines; but they are now like dozens of the old towns, gradually dying a natural death.  The county lies on the American river, which joins the Sacramento; some attempt at farming has been made, but it is extremely trifling, and never can be of any material importance.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>Yuba is another northern county, and possessed at one time, the greatest amount of bar diggings of any in the State.  It is watered throughout by the river Yuba, emptying into the Feather.  The red soil of the former river, for its whole extent through the mountains, contains gold, and the river is yellow as the classic Tiber itself.  Many too, like Caesar have crossed its waters, and achieved the object of their search in plenty; but too many, alas! have closed their eyes forever, in the hardships of the early seasons; and many a breaking heart at home, still weeps and watches in solitude, for those who will ever sleep soundly, to the rude river's requiem.  There is little attempt at agriculture, except some barley and melons, but the good prices--from the expense of packing--make the most indifferent crops, tolerably remunerative.  The river in its upper portion is formed by numberless small tributaries, but the three principal ones are termed, the north, south, and middle forks; they all contain gold, and the very minutest of them, at one period swarmed with busy miners.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The most important districts are Mill Creek, Hampshire Creek, Deadwood Creek, Slate Creek, Canon Creek, Ousley's Bar, Long's and Park's Bar.  The gold on Mill Creek is fine and in moderate quantities, the lumber is excellent.  Hampshire Creek abounds with excellent lumber, and supplies a large country with boards for sluices.  The soil of Deadwood Creek, was at one time thickly impregnated with gold, and still contains good diggings; there is plenty of good pine and an excellent saw mill.  Slate Creek approaches close to the Sierra Nevada range, and contains much coarse gold, but it lies very deep, and the labor of extracting it is very great, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The City of Marysville is in a very flourishing condition, and its central position for convenience to the mines, and being the head of navigation, unite to increase its importance.  It is built on the Yuba, one mile above its influx with the Feather River, and although a good business locality, the climate is weakening and unwholesome.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The smaller streams are Bear River, which is the county line on the south, and empties into the Feather River 31 miles below Marysville.  Dry Creek, No. 2, empties into the same river, 6 miles above the mouth of Bear.  There are excellent farming and grazing lands on both of these rivers, with fine grass at all seasons.  Dry Creek No. 3 empties into the Yuba, and receives many small streams of itself, it is 40 miles long, has nine saw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Sierra county, joining Yuba, is a small mining county.  It has a population of 6000, and nearly a million dollars invested in various ways, of which placer mining takes one half.  It contains five bustling little towns, Downieville, Pinegrove, Windsor, Coxe's Bar and Goodyear's Bar.  Downieville on the Yuba is the largest, containing 1500 inhabitants, and the mines in the vicinity are deep and pay handsomely.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Nevada is a large and populous county, containing about 25,000 inhabitants, one-third of whom are citizens, one-third Chinese, and the remainder specimens from almost every race.  Mining and grazing are the chief occupation of the people, and it contains 700,000 head of horses and horned cattle.  The amount employed in mining amounts to five million of dollars, and in merchandize half a million.  Nevada is the principal city.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Butte, so called from the mountains of the same name, has a population of 15,000, and possess extensive resources, both in agriculture and mines.  Although farming has not been much attended to, there are upwards of 5000 acres in cultivation, but the system is bad in the extreme, and the productions, as a consequence, form but a poor criterion of the land's capabilities.  Half a million dollars are employed in quartz mining, but for so far they have not been very remunerative.  There is much placer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:mining, and the returns are very satisfactory.  Great quantities of lumber of an excellent description are produced--the united work of fifteen powerful saw mills.  The mines are of gold, silver, lead, platina and quicksilver, but gold and quicksilver are by far the most abundant.  There is much sublime and beautiful scenery in the Butte mountains.  Table Mountain near the Feather River--or <HI REND="italics">Rio de los plumas</HI>
159.sgm:<P>Colusi has no mines, and has only about 1000 inhabitants, the chief portion of whom are congregrated in, and around the little towns of Colusi and Munroeville.  Colusi is at the head of summer navigation on the Sacramento, and forms a depot for goods, from whence they are packed on mules to Shasta, Pitt River and other mines in the north.  Tehama bluffs, higher up, answers a similar purpose during the freshets.  Munroeville is the county seat.  Very little is known of this region yet, for the interior is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Humbolt, enclosing the bay of the same name, lies on the Pacific coast, north of San Francisco Bay.  It supplies a great part of the country with lumber, and is slowly but surely progressing.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Klamath, north of Humbolt, is a small country, with about 1500 of a population.  It has but little land under cultivation, and the amount of capital employed is not large.  It all consists of a narrow strip on the coast five miles wide and twenty long, which is of a very superior description.  The rivers are, the Klamath, Trinity and Salmon, all of them contain gold in paying quantities, and are extensively worked.  The Klamath empties into the Pacific and is next to the Sacramento in size.  The principal mountains are called Salmon and Prospect, they are of great height, and are crowned with snow more than eight months in the year.  Timber is plentiful and of magnificent growth, plenty of redwood measuring upwards of 20 feet in diameter.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Trinity in the extreme north, has a population, supposed, of 3000 whites and Indians.  Its mines and other resources are but little known, they are extensive and rich, at least on the river bearing its name.  The native Indians are the most fierce and warlike of any in the State, and have given great trouble and expense to the general government.</P>
159.sgm:<P>El Dorado was the great theatre of operations during the first gold excitement, and although still possessing a large population, its palmiest days are over.  The surface has been all exhausted, where payable, and the deep diggings--which are all nearly claimed--are now the only ones <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Shasta, the last of the list, is far north, and attained much notoriety for some time, on account of the Indian hostilities.  They were, indeed, almost the only red men who showed a martial spirit, in opposition to the march of the invaders, though their pigmy resistance was much overrated and magnified, by the hireling press, in the service of the self-dubbed heroes; who won gold and even a species of glory, for the feat of driving a few half starved breechless savages, from their hunting and fishing grounds, to perish among the snowy hills of the interior.  The climate is the severest in the State, and much destitution has occurred, during the first three winters after its first occupation, from the extreme difficulty of conveying provisions at that season.  Large deposits of gold were found in the region around the town; but of late years the quantity has greatly decreased.  Mining in summer is much retarded by scarcity of water, and in winter from a superfluity of snow, but for so far, little has been done to obviate the inconvenience, by ditches or flumes.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Shasta is much too high in the mountains to make farming very successful; only about 1500 acres are under cultivation, and the proceeds are very small.  Shasta City has a population rising near 3000, and the whole population of the country may be estimated in the neighborhood of 5000.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The principal live stock consists in mules, of which there are upwards of 1200.  They are chiefly employed in packing provisions through the mines, and conveying freight to Oregon for passengers; for the great northern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>We have now taken a passing glance, at every great natural or artificial locality, within the bounds of the golden State; and if I have dwelt too little, on some of the deepest interest, and been too prolix on the more insignificant, it has been because I have had more ample opportunity, and spent much more time in some localities than in others.  Enough has been said, however, to give a general skeleton of the country and its face, together with the peculiar features, climate, and natural qualities, of its wide and diversified surface.  It may be well though, before concluding this part, to add a few observations, that may answer the purpose of advice, to those who contemplate a visit to the country.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Although California undoubtedly contains a greater proportion of active and vigorous bone and muscle, than any other country of the same population, there is perhaps no other people, to whom sweating the brow is more distasteful or inconvenient.  There is but little mystery involved in the explanation.  The class to whom the original extravagant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Among the first emigrants, this uncongenial element most abounded; for, besides natural inclination, they possessed the most money, and were best able to overcome the great expense incidental to such a voyage, when the means of transport were so meagre and imperfect.  The most respectable class consisted of patientless doctors, briefless barristers, book-keepers, superior mechanics, and the whole host of the shabby genteel; runaway soldiers and sailors, formed another large portion; and the rascals filled up the rear.  Very soon the pick and shovel handles, irritated the tender palm of the <HI REND="italics">elegante</HI>
159.sgm:, and he sighed for his lighter and more familiar occupation.  The blacklegs, too, got disgusted with the degradation, and sought the more congenial occupations of office holders or gamblers.  In consequence, every possible channel that demanded skill, education or light labor, was rapidly filled to overflowing, and were soon depreciated far below the calling they despised; while the community was burthened with a host of non-producers, who fattened on the exertions of the industrious miner.  Resources for mechanical skill, have of late years somewhat developed themselves, as well as fields for the professional and literary, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Such being the case, the robust and persevering, can alone make a visit to California, a profitable one; for to all others it is most miserably adapted to their condition, whether as a temporary or permanent home.  The crowds of lawyers, small tradesmen, mechanics, and others, who swarm in every little camp, even of the most humble description, soliciting the patronage of the public--of whom they often form at least one half--is truly astonishing, when every one of them can, if he choose, find plenty and independent employment for himself, and thus earn three or four dollars per day.  But they prefer to waste their existence, in useless and hopeless competition, almost deprived of the necessaries of life, despised by each other, and even by those whom they dare to consider inferiors--for the paltry privilege of idleness, and a white shirt.</P>
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159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PART IV.<LB>ANECDOTES AND SKETCHES FROM LIFE. HOW I JUMPED A CLAIM.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>Never shall I forget my introduction to the mysterious and exciting occupation of a gold-seeker.  With what lofty aspirations did I don the red shirt and inexpressibles of dongaree! The glorious scheme of my childish years; those fruitless, untold hopes of rivalling Aladin, or that experienced mariner Sinbad; all those fleeting, and ridiculous, but not less blissful thoughts, that brightened my onward path to the world of life and action--thoughts, alas! long since smothered by unpleasant contact with a rough and jostling world, and the deep gulf of manhood's dull decay--all those lovely chimeras of my boyhood's verdant fancy, when I religiously believed in Santa Claus, and the vegetation of penny pieces, were again revivified in my mind's eye--not as fleeting goblins of the past, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The glorious panorama of flood, field and mountain, that greeted our every step on that bright summer morning, might almost awake a glimmer of romance, in the bosom of a railroad director; for even my stalwart, matter of fact friend, Buckeye, who marshalled my presence to the promised Sesame, seemed moved by its influence, to the spirit of song, and made the very old hills rejoice in their echo to ``Californy, that's the land for me.''  But, humbly do I confess, that much as I felt and appreciated the influence of the beauteous scene, I can only now repeat, that beautiful it was; for, not a hill, nor rock, nor waterfall, nor tree--not one of nature's innocent devices, to lull the heart from care to peace, retains a definite position in my memory--all remains merely as a bright hued chaos of views, but seldom seen, and hard to be forgotten.  But my thoughts and conceptions were other than for landscapes.  They were grovelling in the dust, aye, in the very gravel that lay wet and closely packed in the crevices of the bedrock; for on that never to be forgotten morning, I was to be ushered at once, without apprenticeship, into the full mysteries of the mining art, and all its responsibilities.  Buckeye, my bosom friend, of two days acquaintanceship, volunteered his assistance in the act of initiation; and sturdily we proceeded with shovel, pick, and pan, to <HI REND="italics">jump</HI>
159.sgm:, or take possession of the claim of the redoubtable Cincinnatus Baggs.  Baggs, we knew to be absent from the ground--a great desideratum, by the way, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The task was one requiring a due proportion of nerve; for Cincinnatus was a reputed buffer of six feet three, a Pike county man besides, and of course an adept in all the innocent recreations, of biting, gouging, and playing horse, so much delighted in by the primitive people of the ``Setting Sun.''  We picked and shovelled faithfully for two or three hours, until we had removed all the light deposits of the surface, on a space six feet square, and on this made a smaller hole in the compact sand and gravel, as low as the Yuba river would permit us, without bailing.  A pan was then filled with the deepest earth we could procure, and placed in the hands of my skillful and experienced companion, to ``prospect'' or test the value of the ground underneath, from the sample already in our possession.  We descended to the river which was close at hand, and peeping over the shoulder of the operator, I watched his manipulations with impatient but intense interest.  Slowly did he move the pan, and gradually the lighter portions wore away in the tiny waves made by the agitation of the pan.  He then carefully picked out the coarser gravel with his fingers, and commenced the motion afresh, the heavier particles slowly descending, and the lighter going off, until at last the filthy lucre was plainly discernible in shining specks, mixed with a small quantity of fine black sand.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Well,'' said I endeavoring to look wise, and to speak professionally, ``what's the prospect?''</P>
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159.sgm:<P>He whirled it round the pan for a minute, without paying any regard to my keen inquiry, and after coming to an apparent conclusion he observed,--</P>
159.sgm:<P>``If this prospect was on the north fork of the Feather, or even in the Columby diggings, I would reckon on twenty-two cents; but this gold ain't right familiar to me yet, and I kind o' think it looks thin and flaky, and if so be, there ain't more than from eighteen to twenty cents; but it is easy dirt to get out, and we can make two ounces a piece, to the day, like smoke, if the streak only holds out.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>Here was a windfall for a penniless purse! Thirty-five dollars a day, in regular pay; why it was an independent fortune, an inexhaustible bank, of which I was cashier and director.  To be sure the money was locked up in the vaults, and there was no key, but then I possessed the means of <HI REND="italics">picking</HI>
159.sgm:<P>``He's a comin' the puke; mind your eye; you be spokesman, he knows I've got a claim; show your claws and bluff him off.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>And before I could thoroughly comprehend the tenor of this hurried advice, I found myself face to face with the notorious puke.  I am free to confess, that I almost wished myself comfortably away ``in some lone cot among the distant hills,'' for his appearance fully verified the reports I had received of his powerful well knit frame.  He had certainly been well described as a ``roarer,'' and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>``Stranger,'' said he in a voice of great solemnity, ``is a soger a man o' war, or is he not?''</P>
159.sgm:<P>The pulse beat faster still, on hearing such a belligerent interrogative, and I feebly observed:</P>
159.sgm:<P>``War, my dear sir, does certainly strike me, of all others, as being the occupation best adapted to the wants and natural propensities of a military man, and the one too, in which he could have the opportunity of spreading himself to the greatest advantage.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Wal, stranger, I knowed it all the time myself, but I kind o' wanted a majority in my favor, like a hull-souled Republican, as I be, for you see, the way of it was this,'' (pulse on the decline)--``You see, Dick the Whaler, and Whiskey Tom and me, had been playin' a civil game of poker, and I lost the whiskies, and jest as I began to box the cards, for I'd won the deal, you know--some newspaper man in stud-horse clothes, from 'Frisco, cum in and begun to read the news--and he could read like thunder--and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:sez the news, sez it, `The man-o'-war fired six shots at the merchantman without injurin' him,' and sez I--`The soger must have a darned poor machine of a revolver, or else the pedlar handled his pins right smart, anyhow.'  And that little fiste of a whalin' Dick ups an' sez he--`Reckon, Pike, you never see a man-o'-war.'  Now, stranger, I'm a modest feller; 'taint easy to raise my combat, but this was a rubbin' it in too strong, for I have travelled some, myself, <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
159.sgm: have; <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
159.sgm:<P>Having thus soothed my nerves, our unpleasant visitor posted off rapidly for a few paces; he then stopped short, and turning on his heel, again hailed me:</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Oh, mister!--you've told me suthin', and now I'll tell you suthin'-- <HI REND="italics">them diggings is grub diggings you're at, they are</HI>
159.sgm:! I tried it myself last winter, and they prospected at first mor'n considerable, but they gin out so quick they made my head swim; but try your chance for a turn-up-Jack, and when you can't, come to me and I'll trade you a howler for cash--ginoine five cent stuff--a big bank, and no water to make you swear.  If you hunt for me when the weather's moderate, I <HI REND="italics">may</HI>
159.sgm: be at work, and agin, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<HI REND="italics">mayer</HI>
159.sgm:<P>When he had concluded his harangue, I hypocritically tendered my acknowledgments, muttering at the same time something about sour grapes, which Cincinnatus heard or regarded not, for with an unwieldy motion of his big hand, he departed on his mission, singing ``Barbara Allan,'' with a voice like a Stentor.  But if the illustrious traveller judged not wisely in the first instance, he did but too well in the second.  The thin strata would not defray the expense of stripping, and we were forced to abandon the claim, as our predecessor had done.  And thus ended my first jump.</P>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A FIELD OFFICER</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>His name was Breeze, and if true, what some persistently affirm is the case, that names were originally given to point out some peculiar characteristic of the individual, then was my general a worthy descendant; for he inherited in all purity the gifts of his ancestor in one respect at least; for a more ``gassy'' individual--as the Americans term it--it never was my lot to be put in communication with.  He was one of the great men of the country in '52, at which period he had probably risen to the highest pinnacle of his fame, for from that time to the present, his star has been on the decline, chiefly from the long cessation of hostilities, with the dark nations of the north.  But my connection with him was a peaceful one.  No proud prancers insulted the slain, nor ghastly wounds upbraided us in our labor.  The weapon wielded was the pen--the blood shed was the ink--and the field, a neatly bound volume <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>I frankly avow, that it was a feeling nearly akin to awe, which I experienced, when I heard my name announced, and was ushered into the presence of this august personage.  I had often read and heard about generals; nay, I had often read and heard about generals; nay, I had often seen them at a distance, while reviewing troops, seated on splendid chargers; their aids-de-camp galloping towards them like the wind, and spattering the mud in spectators' faces.  But I had never even seen one afoot, much less in a room eight by twelve, with a large bed in it; and--although I knew it to be impossible--like the ancient Peruvians, I could scarcely divest myself of the idea, that a general and a horse were inseparable.  There was a deep solemnity, I imagined, attendant on my introduction, a corporeal reality extremely trying to a nervous, bashful nature.  Had it been a major, or even a colonel, my trepidation would have been much less, but a real live general of brigade was astounding; for the very name itself, called up pictures of Boney and <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The general had three friends with him in his study--I might say bedroom and parlor too, for it answered all three purposes.  The first was only a judge, and the second a major, but as neither had seen more than twenty summers yet, they bid very fair, if they kept on <HI REND="italics">progressing</HI>
159.sgm: in proportion, to the age of three score and ten, of attaining quite dignified titles.  The third was the county surveyor; and a middle-aged man who entered with me, and whom <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Next day I entered on my duties--which consisted in recording in a good plain hand, the incidents of flood and field, in which the brigadier and his allies were engaged, during the memorable battles of '50 and '51, with the Digger Indians.  Part of the copy from which I formed my records, were in the general's own hand, and the various officers under his command; part were editorials, clipped from newspapers favorable to the prosecution of the war; but by far the largest ingredient, was the oral narrative of the fight, from the lips of the general himself.  These records were all to be deposited in the archives of the State, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>There was none of that military brevity, nevertheless, so much admired in the hook-nosed fellow of Rome, about the orders, bulletins, or despatches.  On the contrary, they were all voluminous documents, not a title of etiquette or title was forgotten, and notwithstanding a vast amount of bad penmanship and orthography, and magnanimous contempt for old Murray, some of them must at least have taken a day to indite.  No particular mention was made in the plunder account, of the acorns and crickets captured in the camp of the foe; these luxuries being the staple articles of consumption, in most request by the martial enemy.  But that might be, because the articles would not command a market, even in the mines, during the severest season.</P>
159.sgm:<P>I have my old employer now, in my mind's eye, as he deposited his burly person on a low camp stool, his ambitious heels resting on the balcony; calmly surveying the passing crowds on the street.  There he sat, discoursing his war stories, ruminating the ``Jeems'' river weed, and discharging its virtues on the heads of the citizens beneath.  His little pig's eyes, half hid in folds of unwholesome fat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>For hours have I listened to his dull monotonous drawl--spiced at intervals, during periods of excitement--with huge south-western oaths, which, however, he bashfully commanded me to suppress in the copy.  I followed him in his details, sometimes thrice over, and copied much of his manuscript besides, but the subject to me is still wrapped in the deepest obscurity.  I merely know that Brigadier General Breeze saved the country, and to use his own literal words, ``gave the diggers particular, and infernal fits.''  The situation at ten dollars per day, and a free lunch, was a good one; and I was visibly affected and grieved, that illness compelled me to resign, but I have no doubt, he had not long to wait, to find a candidate for my vacant chair.</P>
159.sgm:<P>How much these victories have cost the public, has never yet been fully made known, but the aggregate must be enormous; and the wily field officer, despite his thirst for military renown, has been by no means forgetful of indirect ``spulzie;'' but has feathered his military couch so warmly, that he can calmly recline, in a green old age, and expound to his loving family, how fields and feathers were won in the early good old days of California.</P>
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159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE SPECULATOR.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>Seth Brown was a born speculator, he could not exist without it.  Though he professed to be a member of the Baptist Church, yet the church was but secondary to him, for trade was his religion and his life.  He was a thin, wiry, little red haired man, extremely nervous and bustling, with a sharp, kindly grey eye, and a person always punctiliously neat and clean.  He had three little sandy haired children, and a wife who was a regular tartar; for although burthened continually, with a complicated out of door business, the unfortunate Seth had to perform three-fourths of the domestic duties, legitimately attached to woman's sphere; and when he failed to perform the smallest trifle of his allotted task, the pointed method in which that injured gentlewoman would enlarge upon her wrongs, must have made him believe himself the most wicked and black-hearted monster in the universe.</P>
159.sgm:<P>In his usual routine, he was out of bed at daylight to prepare the morning meal, (for $100 per month, for a hired girl, was more than his circumstances could afford,) and when this was accomplished, and the children washed and dressed, he aroused his better half, who came out looking bilious and cross enough, but at the same time prepared to do ample justice to the excellent cookery of her husband.  When he had arranged the crockery, and made all things tidy, he posted down town to his office, and his lady to her gossiping acquaintances; and when he returned to dinner it was sometimes cooked for him, but these were exceptions, for he had generally that operation to perform <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Yet did not his heart become discouraged, nor his ambition flag, for although burthened with the whole care of such a family, still as prop after prop gave way, of his airy castles in the city, his inventive genius soon erected another; and if he could not manage to lay up funds, he still contrived to keep his head above water, and his wife and little ones respectable and decent.  He had command of a small down-east schooner, in '49, and during that year had conveyed his family hither, and left off the sea, for the purpose of pursuing his favorite inclinations in the city of San Francisco.  His acquirements in literature were but meagre, and yet his first attempt was the management of a newspaper; how he got through with it Heaven knows, for he never read a book, and his language was the concentrated essence of provincial Yankee; but most likely he received assistance from some of the shoals of unemployed lawyers who then infested the city.  But people would not read his paper, and so he published a book for them--a Directory for the city--which contained a large amount of useful Statistical information, correctly and neatly drawn up.  This was well patronized, and he made well by it at $5 per copy, exclusive of advertisements.  But when his edition was disposed of, he was again at leisure, and started an advertising agency, that is, he kept up a correspondence with all the principal journals, and procured the insertion of advertisements by canvassing, charging a per centage upon each.  This at length became his fixed occupation, for he adhered to it for several years, and kept it always as a stand-by when other resources failed.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>His next operation was to take a contract from the corporation, to number each door within the city limits, at which he made $40 per day until the work was completed; but he was obliged to collect it himself from the tax-payers, and when he went round for that purpose, the tax-payers refused to comply, alleging that the edict was unconstitutional, and against their consent; for they all knew their own houses well enough, and some were no way solicitous for the public to know their whereabouts.  Brown, justly indignant at such treatment, attempted to reason on the matter with them, saying that it was a great injustice for them to receive the benefit of his labor, without any remuneration for him; but they ingeniously combatted this argument by granting him the privilege of rubbing the numbers out again, if he pleased; such reasoning as that, was of course conclusive, so he calmly put the speculation down to profit and loss, and forthwith entered the ham-washing business.  Previous to the year '54, California imported all her salted provisions, and the amount of bacon and hams, annually landed in San Francisco was very large.  In the long voyage round Cape Horn--some six months--many of the hams lost much of their pristine freshness of appearance, which much deteriorated from their value in the market, when placed in competition with handsome ones, even if equally sound, for good looks are objects of importance even to hams as well as to young ladies.  The observant Seth soon perceived what was required; so he collected his cash and built him a tall smoke-house, and took contracts from the merchants to repair the damaged articles at three cents per pound.  He first stripped off and threw away the greasy cover; he then scraped them with a knife, and scrubbed them thoroughly with soda and hot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>His next vocations were to invent a machine for catching craw-fish, and to plant a bed of oysters, both of which failed, and then he tried the tin business in roofing houses; raising chickens; making tomato catsup, and other callings too numerous for detail, with various degrees of success; and when I last saw him he was busily at work on an iron riffle for sluices, which he intended to get patented, though he never had visited the mines in his life.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Although so much addicted to trading and quaint speculations, which rarely succeeded, poor Brown had a hand ``open as day to melting charity,'' and that, too often, most indiscreetly expended; so much so, that I was at last obliged to take him severely to task for his improvident conduct, urging that, although it was a very commendable virtue in its place, it was scarcely just, or even generous--in his then precarious circumstances--to himself or his family.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>``Well,'' said he, you've maybe hit it, for all my own townsmen, here, hint that way, though their 'pinions don't hurt me bad, for I guess I know <HI REND="italics">them</HI>
159.sgm:<P>``Quampiackers! What is that?''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Is it possible you never heard of Quampiac? Well, p'raps you ha'nt, and if not, you needn't want to, for it has, and no mistake, a leetle the meanest location, and has some on the closest fisted folks, on this side the herrin' pond.  It's away down East so far, they can never make a raise, and they will freeze to a copper cent till their joints are stiff.  Indeed, it's a slim chance to get along anyway, and mayhap it's the natur' of the poor fellers! But, strange enough, father was as free and open handed a chap--in his riper years--as you could scare up in a prospecting tower from Maine to the Colorado; and signs on it, the Brown family were allers poor as No. 3 mackerel.  And the strangest of it was, he got turned to that way of thinking in one night.  You see, Dad, till he succeeded at last, was the most inveterate office-seeker known in them parts.  He cared nothin' about politics--it was the office he wanted; and he always contrived to get a nomination on some ticket or 'nother.  Sometimes on the hard-shell, sometimes on the soft, or the locofoco, or the independent, and often on no ticket but his own.  At it he went, tooth and nail, year after year, till his head grew frosty in the unsuccessful battle.  I kind of wonder, too, sometimes, at his bad luck, for a smart man was Dad, and his views were not onreasonably aspirin' nuther, for he gen'rally run for constable, or hogreeve, or something of that natur', that he was competent enough to fill.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Well, there was a bleary-eyed, hypocritical old deacon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>``There was a promiscus monotony of great roaring brimstone fires, and all sorts and any quantity of ingenious fixins for tortur'.  There was lots of folks from our way, and some of 'em communicants at that, all a workin' and industrious as their boss in a gale of wind, and among the rest, who should be there, apperiently quite at hum, but the <HI REND="italics">seedy vong</HI>
159.sgm: cordwood inspector, Zeb Skinker, follerin' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>``So, while Dad was observin' minootly the varieties in this onpleasant landscape, a feller comes in a drivin' a whalin' big bull team, and Skinker he goes at it, as usual, with his measurin' rod, and says to the feller he won't pass it on account of its bein' two inches short.  And the other feller, who appeared to be from Pike, commenced a cussin, quite leisurely, but rather boisterous, and Skinner follerin' suit, cussed too, and they swore away at each other durin' several hours in a most onchristian manner, until they were interrupted in their pastime by the old sinner of all sinners himself, who was rigged out in a Shanghai coat and a great pair of sideboards, with a pen stuck behind his ear; and, great king! his tail loomed out astarn like the Cape Cod sea sarpent.  His face was onvisible to Dad from his position, but he could hear him plain enough, when he axed, quite mild like, what they meant by disturbin' him when he was a settlin' his 'counts? And Skinker ups and explains about the short measure, and says the teamster--`Look here boss! I've been a haulin' brimstone to you nigh on a thousand year, and was allers allowed for a hull cord, more or less, and now the fust day this chap's in office he commences chaffin' and findin' fault!' Well, with that, Satan turns slap round, and stares the inspector full in the face, so mad that his tail bristled out jest like a cat's when she's got her Ebenezer up, and he roars out, in a voice like a thousand airthquakes--`Skinker! pay the man for a cord! None of your Quampiac tricks <HI REND="italics">in this place</HI>
159.sgm:<P>``The noise 'woke father up, but he believed in that dream, and his last word to me, on the joyful occasion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A TRIP TO THE SOUTHERN MINES.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>Some years ago I collected all the funds at my disposal, with the intention of making an investment in fruit, and hearing from those persons most experienced in the trade, that the city of Los Angeles, in the southern country, was the most desirable mart for purchasers; I forthwith determined to patronize the city of the Angels.  But as I had often heard it repeated, that ``It is a poor rule that won't work both ways,'' I concluded to make a little venture downwards also.  After pondering the matter over, carefully, for some time, my disturbed mind gradually concentrated itself upon fish, and, by my friend Seth Brown's advice, I bought from him, a good many barrels of smoked salmon; and shrewdly guessing that the absorption of so much salt in the system, would cause a longing for effervescent drinks, I procured an antidote in the shape of many bottles of champagne cider, manufactured on a new system, without apples, by a famous chemist of San Francisco.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Every thing being prepared, I and my precious cargo were shortly on board of the coasting steamer, that, according to advertisement, made a weekly trip to the port of my destination.  During the rushing, crowding and general excitement, always incidental on the departure of the steamer, I observed two sporting chips of the law, whom I had known slightly, a year previous, in the Northern mines; but fortune not being so propitious as they desired, were southward bound, as I was afterwards <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>My cider was all stowed on the forward deck, on account of its airy situation, for I was fearful that the closeness of the hold, might have an injurious effect on its exploding powers.  But, alas! I never committed a more fatal error, for next morning we were clear from the fresh breezes of the bay, and the sun cast his rays fiercely down on the windless waves of the Pacific.  Towards noon the first gun was fired from the central hamper, and from that time until the sun fell behind the waves of the Pacific, pop, pop, went the bottles, every half minute, as loud as revolvers.  If ever there was a literal application of the term ``paying the shot,'' it certainly was then, and I was the victim, for every report cost a dollar, and I was forced to endure the heartless jests of the passengers, on the unknown proprietor, with that ``infernal fire'' still ringing in my ears.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Well, the champagne was a dead loss; and perhaps the constitutions of the Los Angelites, might be grateful for the mishap; but the fish were a failure also, for in hot weather, people do not hanker much after smoked Salmon, salt as brine; and so I was obliged to force them on the market at a very depreciated value.  With the wreck of my fortune, I purchased an assortment of fruit, consisting of pears, figs, peaches, and apricots, conveyed them to the coast in barrels, and had them just ready for shipment on the day of the steamer's expected arrival--a very important point, for despatch is peremptorily required to make the fruit trade profitable at all.  But--begging Miss Edgeworth's pardon--there is such a thing as bad luck; for what human forethought could tell, that precisely on that eventful occasion, when my whole life's earnings were at stake, the refractory steamer would break down, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>So much did my loss prey upon my spirits, that I prescribed change of scene for myself, and having a friend resident in the valley of Santa Cruz, from whom I had been long divided; I came to the conclusion to pay him a visit, and try the experiment of rustication for a few weeks, to soothe my shattered nerves.  I therefore proceeded to the place, paid my visit, got tired of my own idleness, and the Hoosiers besides, and again my ambition was stimulated with the desire of ``making a raise.''  So, without having any very definite idea, with regard to my future proceedings; I shouldered my pack, and journeyed eastward.  A long spur of the coast range, nine miles in width, divides this valley from the neighboring one of Santa Clara, and towards evening I had made the transit, and was entering on the broad plains of that fertile valley.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Santa Clara is at present one of the most productive counties in the State, but much of it was, at the time I speak of, an almost unbroken wilderness, more especially, in the central portion where I now was.  Trudging along in the bright moonlight, my eye was already scanning the plain, in search of the softest couch, when the loud clear notes of a bugle almost close at hand, startled me exceedingly.  When my first intense surprise had partially subsided, at hearing such unwonted sounds in that vast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Nothing could be more perfect and tasteful, than the arrangements for comfort and convenience, under the circumstances.  Seats and sheds were formed of slats, brought from the neighboring redwoods, while the central place of worship was shaded by an immense sail, which had been procured for the purpose, by some industrious Christian from the wreck of a clipper ship, on the neighboring coast.  The sleeping apartments surrounded this, and in the rear, the long tables of redwood, together with the smoking stoves, and savory steam of beef, pork, venison, and game, plainly informed the nose, of the extensive refectory.  At the conclusion of the benediction, all retired to the well covered tables, where the hospitality was unbounded; visitors were invited to partake of the good cheer, not only for the present, but to remain and receive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>As my readers--from the confession of my circumstances--are no doubt aware, that I had no peculiarly pressing engagement just at that time, I was induced to remain for a few days; and although I have witnessed many meetings of this description, and in various places, I can positively aver, that for order and decorum I have never seen this exceeded.  The affair was carried out at the sole expense of about a dozen individuals, and if obtaining converts was their object, they were most certainly amply remunerated for their trouble and expense, for more than a hundred persons, were induced to enroll themselves on the books of the church.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The society was the Methodist Church South, completely divided from, and in direct hostility to the Church North, on that one grand subject of surpassing interest, over all others--the slavery question--a subject that bids fair, not only to separate the people on religious grounds, but eventually, to break up, politically, the whole confederation of the States.  The Northern church has an express article in its discipline against slavery, while the other, not only expunges the offensive article, but allows slavery both to preacher and people, and even openly recommends it from the pulpit.</P>
159.sgm:<P>That the people of this State, however, which is nominally free, should so strenuously harp upon the <HI REND="italics">patriarchal</HI>
159.sgm: institution--as they call it--may appear strange; but one reason is, the continuation of their old habits, and the other, the hope of forming a new State, of sound Southern principles.  Indeed, the preacher, although to appearances, a conscientious and sincere man, could not even in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>``My dear hearers,'' he exclaimed, ``my right arm would have been freely given, to rescue that wretched victim to the power of the evil one, from the fearful judgment of an abused and insulted people.  He was not fit to grapple with death, or to face his God, and with the sin that bears an express curse upon the perpetrator, by the Deity Himself, he dies, accepting not of any ministry, hard and impenitent to the fearful crime, yet with the consoling words of the blessed Saviour upon his polluted lips.  Ah! my friends, there is a devilish fortitude, as well as there is a Godly fortitude, and the evil one sometimes deserts not his ablest supporters, even to the last; for that worse than murderer--that violator of the express command of God, and our ever-to-be remembered constitution, that man-stealer, in short--that deadliest foe to the dear rights of a free people--that veriest enemy to heathen conversion, died with a front of brass, and an eye that quailed not before the insulted majesty of his fellow-creatures--he died as he had lived, cursed by God and man--a deluded, hardened abolitionist!''</P>
159.sgm:<P>These prophetic remarks were received with much unction and many groans by the sympathizing congregation, and I was mentally conning over its matter, together--I confess--with some quite irrelevant thoughts, regarding my own position and future movements, when a heavy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Times had flourished with my friend, during the early part of the year of our separation.  He had become the proprietor of a store, and did a flourishing trade, until collection day came round, when there being no assets in the hands of his customers, and his stock thoroughly exhausted, he had made up his mind to try his fate once more in the mines, with his head clerk and junior partner.  And as our circumstances bore a striking similarity to each other, to say nothing of former friendship, I was easily induced to form one of the party, which was to commence its journey--by the land route--on the succeeding day.  And now, I trust, I have made it sufficiently clear to my readers, the various causes which induced me to take this trip.  So I shall proceed and relate, as they occurred, the most exciting sights and adventures, on this--to me at least--interesting ``trip to the southern mines.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>The same evening I was introduced in due form to the third individual of our triumvirate.</P>
159.sgm:<P>My first impressions--and they continued for some time--were of a confused assemblage, and undue proportion of legs and arms, with no body or face, worth speaking of.  He hailed from the land of Boone, and the long rifle which he affectionately clasped, at once attested the votary of Nimrod.  A brief consultation was now held upon the spot, as touching our several resources, and the various requisites for the long tramp--a distance of 200 miles.  We found ourselves amply able to provide the simple necessaries, with a balance in the exchequer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>With regard to the victualling department, a sack of wheat flour was passed nem. con.  I then modestly proposed bacon, as an agreeable accompaniment to farinaceous food, but was indignantly frowned down by the hunter; who proposed that the words powder and shot be inserted in lieu of the swine flesh, which was passed, I being in the negative.  Our negociations were then brought to a close; and the next morning shone brightly and cheerfully upon us, as we took a bird's flight course across the plain, for the Pacheco pass, in the main coast range.  The blue hills, shrouded in a thin vapor, stretched along our front, and the peak of Pacheco soaring far above the rest, at a distance of twelve or fourteen miles, formed an excellent landmark to find the entrance to the pass.</P>
159.sgm:<P>A more beautiful reality of a farming country, does not exist, than the valley we crossed to attain the pass.  Level as a board, and with a rich loamy soil, on which not a drop of rain had pattered for six months at least; it was still covered with rich clover, other grasses, and wild oats in profusion, and although dry as powder, was still sweet and nutritive in the highest degree, as the large herds of Spanish cattle we passed, fully attested by their shining coats.  Thousands of geese, sandbill cranes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Noon found us all at the entrance of the pass; our horse was released from his burden, and we set to work, with all the skill, bought by long experience, to prepare the noontide meal.  A turnover was soon crisping in the frying pan, and I made a desperate onslaught at once upon the game bag, beside which the long slight figure of the owner was listlessly extended.  I shook out the contents with all the energy of appetite, and out dropped the most attenuated specimen of a woodpecker, I ever beheld! Comment was unnecessary, for although the wretch had the impertinence, to correct me in the name I gave the thing, by blandly terming it a ``Peckerwood,'' if he had called it a goose it would not have made it one, so we had to dispense with animal food, and poor Boone received nothing but vinegar looks, as seasoning to his dry cake.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Having despatched our frugal meal, we were soon once more upon the road, and slowly pursued our course through this wild and sublime region.  The range at this point averages about twenty-five miles in latitude, and completely severs this valley from the neighboring one of the San Joaquin.  The pass is a singular freak of nature.  For the first five or six miles, the ascent is imperceptible, and it varies in breadth, from a hundred feet to a quarter of a mile, the soil rich and the vegetation luxuriant; in fact, in all respects, a perfect spur of the valley--if we may use the expression--flanked by hills of great height, and most forbidding exterior.  The very genius of want, seems to reign supreme upon their surface; some consisting of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>From the beginning of the first rise, the road becomes irksome, and tiresome in the extreme, though the hills are depressed, in comparison with those that flank it; so much so, that even an empty waggon, has with great care and constant attention been conveyed through, but it is an operation requiring great skill and considerable risk.  On we toiled, until the shades of evening began to throw a gloom over surrounding objects, when we began to look around for a spring of water, for ourselves as well as the horse, and by which we intended to encamp for the night.  At last we arrived at a point where two trails united--both equally distinct--and we settled it that I should take one which slightly diverged to the left, and lead the tired beast, who now moved at a snail's pace--my companions to take the other, for we judged by the apparently small angle at which the paths closed, that they would again meet at a short distance ahead.</P>
159.sgm:<P>I acknowledge that as I parted from my associates, my feelings were none of the most pleasurable nature; and retrospect, calling up scenes of distant home and pleasing recollections of the past, in no respect gave me consolation, in the unpleasant predicament I now found myself.  I was alone and almost unarmed in the heart of a dreary wilderness, said to be full of grizzly bears, tired, hungry, and parched with thirst.  This was sufficient to induce despondency, but had I had a foresight of the night of terror I was doomed to endure, my unpleasant feelings would have been much more acute.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>I judged I had accomplished somewhat more than a mile on my solitary course, when darkness completely enveloped me.  According to our compact I halloed until I was completely hoarse, without receiving any answering signal, and the path had for the last half mile, become so very indistinct, I became much of the opinion that it only existed in imagination.  To increase my difficulties, I soon knew that I was skirting the side of a remarkably abrupt hill, so very great indeed, was the inclination, that the weary beast, though an old packer, could only be persuaded to proceed, by constant tugging at the halter, and often I was brought to my knees, to prevent myself from rolling down the hill, which from its resemblance to those I had passed in the afternoon, I rightly guessed terminated in a precipice.  I was nevertheless peremptorily obliged to proceed forward, for the slope effectually prevented the possibility of turning the horse, with the object of retreating.</P>
159.sgm:<P>After a wearisome half-hour, spent in this way, I struck into a small blind ravine, where the winter rains had scooped out a little basin, in the sandstone ledge, about ten feet square, the rock to the right and front rising up in a perfect dead wall, while away to the left the prospect was completely lost in a yawning gulf of darkness.  As no alternative remained, I formed the prudent resolve of remaining all night on that solitary spot, and forthwith proceeded to unpack the tired animal.  A scrubby little oak contrived to eke out an existence on each side of the channel, to one of which I fastened the horse, and with the dry sticks that lay plentifully strewed in the ravine, I soon had a roaring fire, for the night was chilly and dark as pitch.  I spread my blanket before the cheerful blaze-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>I was slightly aroused from my reverie, by perceiving a little animal crawl forth from the decayed end of the back log, and run directly under the blankets upon which I was seated.  I sprang up at once, and despatched it, and examination proved it to be a very vicious species of scorpion, the sting of which frequently proves fatal.  In hunting for the scorpion, I also caught a tarantula, a gigantic species of poisonous spider, about the size and form of a common door knob.  Here was a delightful locality for a bedroom--in the midst of a den of scorpions, and without the possibility of changing it for a better before daylight, which was nine hours off, at least!</P>
159.sgm:<P>So nervous did this circumstance make me--for I had always an instinctive horror of vermin--that I kept my feet for two or three hours, at least, walking three paces forward and three back, such being the utmost stretch of my prison.  Tired nature by this time, could endure it no longer, and after throwing a large quantity of fresh wood upon the fire, lay down to rest, but with the firm resolve not to sleep; and so much were my hearing powers stretched, for the smallest rustle in the dry leaves, the feeling became absolutely painful.  At last, in spite of my resolve, I fell asleep.  How long I slumbered, it is difficult to say, but at length I awoke, with a cold chill and horrible shuddering sensations.  I opened my eyes, but without the smallest movement of my person, and the first object <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>I was fully aware, that should the reptile strike me, in the position I then was, my case was utterly without hope, and a few hours of excruciating agony would leave me a lifeless clod, on that desolate hillside, without one kind hand to minister, or one ear to receive my last sigh.  How long this fearful stare continued, it is impossible to say, for I took no note of time.  It seemed like hours, but most probably it did not extend to many minutes, when I could perceive an almost imperceptible retrograde motion of the head, and my ear detected a faint whirring of the rattle.  This token, which I knew foreboded an immediate attack, appeared instantaneously to endow me with all my heretofore powers of self-preservation.</P>
159.sgm:<P>With all the energy of despair, I threw myself vigorously backward--the snake striking the next instant--my first spring was plump into the fire; from thence I made a complete summerset over the recumbent horse, and then I rolled away down the hill at an angle of forty-five degrees, but was fortunately saved from utter annihilation, by clinging fast to a small bush within a few feet of the precipice, experiencing no greater loss than the skin of my hands, and a large part of my pantaloons.  With great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>It now became necessary for me to hold another consultation with myself, as to the manner in which I should pass the remainder of the night, for I judged that it still wanted some hours of day dawn, and some kind angel inspired me with a simple idea, that afterwards caused me to reprove myself severely, for not sooner taking advantage of.  I was in possession of several fathoms of rope, with which the pack had been lashed; this I apportioned into what sailors call clews and lanyards, to which I attached the head and foot of the coverlet respectively, and fastening the end of each rope to the little oaks, I had an excellent hammock at once, suspended four feet from the ground.  I turned in gratefully, to my swinging bed, and although my head and feet were a trifle more elevated than a nautical man would consider quite ship shape, I was, two minutes after, utterly unconscious of all sublunary things.</P>
159.sgm:<P>At daylight, I was aroused from my deep trance, by the sound of a human voice, within a few feet of me, which I soon decided to be the Kentuckian.  He was in a gloomy soliloquy, every syllable of which I could clearly distinguish, but so close was my hanging bed to the side of the steep bluff, that he was quite unaware of my contiguity.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Wal,'' said he, ``ef this here aint a a pretty considerable mess of hot homminy, I aint Jeems Pettibone, nor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>During the outpourings of this troubled spirit, I was busily engaged in arranging the traps, and when my well-wisher had relieved himself of the burthen on his mind, I apprised him of my existence and propinquity.  I then proceeded to retrace the fanciful path I had taken on the preceding evening; and if it seemed bad at night, it was absolutely fearful by daylight, running as it did, along by the brow of the precipice, to which we had unwittingly approached, nearer than six feet, several times, and one false step would have sent us thundering down the horrible gulf at our feet.</P>
159.sgm:<P>When I rounded the hill, I met Jeems, who greeted me with every evidence of pleasure, that gradually heightened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>It must not be imagined that Jeems was idle all this time, far from it, for although he had provided nothing for so far, excepting that ghost of a woodpecker, he had already blazed away the chief portion of the powder, and I verily believe, that he considered himself a very useful personage, and that we could make but a very indifferent fist without him.  On the first day's walk in the plains of the San Joaquin, he, as was usual with him, preceded us a mile or two on the path, with the design, no doubt, of intercepting hares or antelopes, that might otherwise be alarmed at the presence of so large a party.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The land, for this whole day's march, was slightly undulating, like a rolling prairie, and too light and gravelly, for successful cultivation.  No human habitation was visible; and in the distance could be seen immense herds of antelopes and wild horses; the latter chiefly led on by some patriarchal stallion, would sometimes approach within a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>We had been moving on very quietly for two or three hours, and had seen, nor heard any thing of our pioneer; we were getting slightly uneasy in consequence, when on gaining the summit of a small swell in the land, we perceived almost close to the road, the illustrious Pettibone himself, up to his elbows in blood and grease, disembowelling a fat antelope--a regular ``heart of grease.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Ah, ha!'' he crowed, ``I don't savy plugging antelopes, don't I? Oh, no! I ain't a dead shot, nother, ain't I? No, sir-r! I waste powder, too, do I? In course I do.  Fotch along that frame of a hoss, will you? right smart, and tote off this here venison.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Look at that,'' he continued, pointing to a bullet hole in the hide, ``thar's a wownd for you; I sighted right for that white spot, onder the fore shoulder, and plumped him clean, whar he lived--aighty rod by Jackson--never kicked.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Be off, now;'' he concluded, with the air of a monarch, ``pack off your meat, while I load sweet Nancy agin.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>We started once more, taking with us some of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>``Wal, stranger, I reckon you can have it, but as sure as Old Hickory's in Heaven, I though I shot it, squar in its tracks.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>This little incident, however, ended the hunter's occupation; his title became for the remainder of the way merely honorary, and the honor consisted in lugging along his clumsy twenty pound rifle, himself.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>This night we remained on the plains, and arrived the succeeding day on the banks of the river, close to the influx of the Mercedes.  It was very low at this time, yet still a noble stream, and seemed fairly alive with small fish, principally bass, perch, and suckers.  There was a hog and cattle ranch at the place, to which was attached a small store, for the accommodation of the few farmers scattered along the interval of the river.  The land, for a mile or two on each side of the river, is very fertile, and not very inconvenient to market--but fever and ague are very prevalent, in August and September.</P>
159.sgm:<P>While hunting up some drift wood, for the purpose of cooking coffee, I observed an old superannuated seine, lying on the bank, that most probably had been thrown aside by some fishermen, during the preceding summer, as unseaworthy; and proposed that we should borrow the punt, belonging to the ranch, and try our own fortune for a dinner.  With the assistance of two travellers, whom we met at the ferry, we acted on the hint.  Leaving two of the party with one line, we rowed out towards the mouth of the tributary; we then paid out the net, made a sweep, and commenced hauling in.  As the net gradually collapsed by our united efforts, the stir in the water increased, until it actually seemed to boil, and it was only by dint of great exertion, that we succeeded in hauling to land.  The little fishes swarmed in thousands, but chiefly managed to escape, through the large meshes and rents.  But the larger fry were not so fortunate, for we contrived to capture eighty-two splendid salmon, many of them more than thirty-five pounds in weight, and none less than ten.  We threw them up on the bank behind us, which was probably five feet in height, perpendicular from the water's edge.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The Kentuckian proposed that we should go into the curing business at once, by drying the fish in the sun, and then sending them to the mines in Tuolumne or Stanislaus; and the able way that he footed the sum total up, reckoning 246 per hour--12 hours to the day, and 25 cents per pound--showed that he knew something of the primary rules of arithmetic at least.  But we were suddenly interrupted, in the midst of our castle building, by the mangled remains of a fish, that tumbled over the bank, on our heads, accompanied by a squeak, and the sound of a scuffle.</P>
159.sgm:<P>We were soon on the bank, and such a scene of carnage, it never was my fortune to witness.  More than three hundred hogs had scented their prey, from afar, and pounced on the salmon like a hurricane.  Hungry as death, they tore the fish asunder, while still wriggling in their jaws, and bit and mangled each other savagely, in the madness of their excitement.  All attempts to drive them off, were ridiculous and unavailing, and it was only by much exertion and strong fighting, that we succeeded in rescuing four from their clutches, for our own consumption; these we cleaned and hung up in the sun, for future use, reserving one for present purposes, and with the assistance of some butter and potatoes, that we procured at the ranch, we made a most appetising meal.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Next day, we struck out for the Tuolumne river, which still lay between us and the mountains.  This is a much more fertile country, than that we passed through on the preceding day; the interval or bottom land as it is termed in the West, extends to a much greater width on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>This evening, we were much puzzled at one point, to find the right road leading to the place we had intended for our destination; and we consequently diverged slightly towards a ranch house we saw, for the purpose of making the necessary inquiries.  The building itself, attested the nationality of its owner.  Two substantial log houses under one roof, with the intermediate space, floored, but not closed in at the sides; with a more unpretending structure, about twenty paces off, proclaimed the dwelling house of the Texian, together with the pen for his ``servants.''  A very corpulent negro wench, of matronly appearance, sat at the door plucking a goose; and beside her--with his hands stuck firmly in his pockets--was her wooly pated son, I presume, aged probably eighteen years.  He was watching, at the moment, with a very enthusiastic eye, a cat fight; the animals being attached to each other by the tails, and then thrown over a clothes line, suspended a few feet from the ground.  He was making a violent effort to appear unconcerned, by striving to pucker his thick lips into a whistle, but it would not do, for the young Sambo's eyes exhibited unequivocal signs of satisfaction, despite his demure face; although he had only been the instrument in getting up this pretty pastime, for the express <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>I propounded the necessary interrogatories to the young negro, respecting our dilemma, and while he was endeavoring to enlighten me, making confusion more confounded, with one saucer eye on me, and one on the feline combat, a huge burly personage, some fifty years old--with his short sandy hair combed straight over his eye brows, making his forehead villainously low--emerged from the middle porch, and strutting right up to where I stood, opened the conversation himself.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Oh, stranger! yeour from the east, I reckon.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>I made him a polite negative to this inquiry--though I knew well what he meant--by informing him, that I was last from Santa Cruz.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Oh! blast Santa Cruz!'' said he, ``I s'pose yeou was raised somewhar, warn't you?''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Yes,'' I replied, ``born to the eastward of this, most certainly.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Wal,'' he exclaimed, ``yeou have, mayhap, heern tell, that Scriptur' says, the wise men come from tharaway, and ef so be, the folks raised thar, air so darned wise, why they've got gumption tu, an ef they've got gumption, they mought, sartin, be coaxed to take a hint; an' ef they will take a hint, yeou'll oblege me, by tellin all the blue bellies yeou can skear up, not to meddle no how with a free Texian, or say one sylable to his property, anyhows or anywhere's; for by <HI REND="italics">Jee</HI>
159.sgm:<P>And suiting the action to the word, he applied his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:ample cowhide boot to the property in question, <HI REND="italics">a posteriori</HI>
159.sgm:<P>We found the road ourselves, without much difficulty, and in two days more, were busy in prospecting a bar on the Stanislaus; but as that opens new scenes and associations, not properly belonging to the objects of this sketch, I shall here conclude my ``Trip to the Southern Mines.''</P>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>AN ORATION.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>For a few months prior to the election of President Pierce, the sole occupation of a large portion of the people was electioneering.  Money and time were squandered in profusion by both parties; and no stone was left unturned to encourage the vacillating, or to intimidate them as the case might be.  Paid, and unpaid orators, harraugued each night in the streets of the cities, and even in the smallest villages, to attentive crowds.  Transparencies, with patriotic sentiments, paraded every thoroughfare.  Ephemeral newspapers, of Lilliputian dimensions but high sounding titles, such as ``The Banner of Liberty,'' ``The Bulwark of the Brave,'' ``Freedom's Savior,'' &amp;c., rained over the country, and were perhaps paid for by some one; and the established press, thundered out denunciations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Every trifling action in the life of either, private or public, from the cradle to their present platform, was animadverted upon, in the strongest of terms; and if one tenth part of what was printed of either, was correct, they were both better fitted for the tender mercies of Jack Ketch, than to grace the most exalted position, within the gift of a powerful nation.  It was certainly a great puzzle, to penetrate the cause, which induced people to neglect their private affairs so much, for the election of the President, particularly in California.  The idea of them all being office-seekers, was simply ridiculous, for independent of their great numbers, some of the most enthusiastic busy-bodies in the campaign were men to whom office was worthless and inconvenient.  Patriotism might perhaps serve for a reason, but the hottest of these same politicians would openly acknowledge, the inefficiency and uselessness of their State government, as well as the general, to control the people of this State, either in punishing the guilty, or protecting the innocent.  But perhaps they acted on the maxim of ``Try, try again,'' and it may be, a shadowy outline of some responsible system, already glared before their excited fancies.</P>
159.sgm:<P>But be the cause as it may, all fought like heroes in the service; and it was really interesting to observe, that, in spite of the lengthened apprenticeship to republicanism, the ancient veneration for hereditary honors, has yet far from become extinct, even here.  Scott's ancestors, had each a little biography of his own, for two hundred years back, as giving him a sort of venerable right on the suffrages of the worthy people, who were earnestly implored <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>There was a great gathering of the Scott clans, held in Sacramento one evening, outside a fancy saloon, gilded like a parrot's cage, and bearing the Spanish cognomen of the <HI REND="italics">Adobe</HI>
159.sgm:<P>``And now, to conclude, fellow citizens, I want yeou nothen more nor less, but to come up like what yeou are, and what yeou'r knowed, and feered to be, over the whole 'varsal creation-- <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
159.sgm: spryest, <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
159.sgm: cutest, and far most peowerful, and freest people on this everlastin almighty globe; I want yeou, I say, to come up like what I've pictur'd <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>``Yes; even that small, but proud female, <HI REND="italics">Victory</HI>
159.sgm:, is a watchin' operations, is a watchin' the times from her teower in London, an' a shakin' in her white satin shoes, for fear that you will not vote for Pierce, and why, I ask, should she not? Was it not Scott that humbled the proud Lion in a hundred conflicts? Was it not him that stopped their encroachments, in Mexico, and gained to the Union this country, whose sands are gold.  And was it not Scott that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>`` <HI REND="italics">He</HI>
159.sgm: never got sick upon the field of battle, and keeled over from his horse, when Santy Anny was a comin' down upon him, with his murderin' niggers.  But it <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
159.sgm: him, that sent them and their paper cigars a flyin', like cornstalks and umbrellars in a lively hurricane.  And I'll tell yeou what, my friends, a namin' no names, but he was <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
159.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Just as this delightful vision was pictured so gracefully to the admiring patriots, the fire-bells clanged from every engine-house, and scattered them pell-mell, each to his own location, or, I do verily believe, he would soon have had the meek-eyed moon herself, branded with the U. S.  It afterwards transpired, that the alarm was merely a ruse, got up by the loco focos for the purpose, who dreaded the sledge-hammer effects of the orator's eloquence, on the sympathising hearts of the people.</P>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE SURGEON'S RIDE.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>He was a prominent member of our company (which was denominated the ``Eureka,'' <HI REND="italics">par excellence</HI>
159.sgm:, although we rarely found aught but good appetites and lame backs about sundown.)  His name was unknown, but we called him Sawbones; for he was an M. D., and held a paper which he often showed, and called a diploma.  He was one of those vast shoals of doctors, annually manufactured in some of the States, and then thrown helplessly upon an unpitying world; half educated, but thoroughly licensed to kill or be killed.  Although a tender fledgling, he was constitutionally fond of his ease, and heavy potations were his weakness.  The latter he gave as his reason for rarely volunteering his services to procure provisions from the nearest grocery, which was six or seven miles from our camp; and as this road was a particular dreary walk, being unfortunately neither planked nor macadamized, a foot journey was equally distasteful to all of the party.  The purchase of a stalwart horse was, therefore, the result of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Mr. Sawbones discovered immediately, by intuition, that some tom-iron was indispensably requisite, in order to develop more fully the resources of the Eureka company, and he handsomely tendered his services to procure it from the aforesaid grocery, with the assistance of Boney.  His gracious offer was of course accepted, and a great many other important commissions were entrusted to his charge.  Among the heterogeneous items to be procured were the following, to wit: one cwt. of flour, a quantity of red paint molasses, butter, coffee, &amp;c., with six pounds of nails, and a tea kettle; the whole of which would comprise a heavy pack of itself, and the courier departed amidst general good wishes, with a clean shirt and a smiling countenance.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Alas! much may be comprised in the journey of a day.  The sun--as he always does--mounted to the meridian, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Just at dawn the riderless steed was found at the door in a very unenviable pickle.  Nature, I had thought in one of her quaintest freaks, had done her worst for him long since, but the illustrious mare of Quixotte might as well ape Bucephalus, as the present shapeless thing attempt to vie with the sprightly animal that cocked his tail so jocundly on the previous morning.  Still, it was he; there was no forgetting that Roman nose, and those great anatomical corners for which he was so famous.  His limping legs were encrusted with mud, and the ensanguined sign of despair was on his bridle; his whole body was parti-colored as the map of Europe, and he hung his classical head and drooped his tail with shame and agony.  After a careful analysis of the various rainbow tints with which he was adorned, the groundwork was decided to consist of superfine flour, at ninety cents per pound, and the remainder a medley compound of unknown proportions of red paint, molasses, butter, ground coffee, &amp;c., the whole forming quite an expensive picture, though a very coarse daub.  The lidless and pipeless kettle, which contained a few nails, still clung to the saddle's apology, its battered sides mutely eloquent of the fearful ordeal it had passed; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>On his arrival at the store, he met with many congenial spirits--for members of the faculty were at that time much plentier than patients--and had, as was usual with him, imbibed an unlimited number of whiskey cocktails, and then proceeded to get his order filled, which was promptly done.  It then occurred to his frugal mind that wood was also required in the construction of a tom, and he procured one hundred feet of boards, which he lashed on the back of the already loaded beast, and then commenced his homeward journey.  But the Monongahela sadly bothered him, and the road was soon lost; he then determined, as a <HI REND="italics">dernier resort</HI>
159.sgm:, to mount Boney, trusting to his sagacity and propensity for barley as the surest method of finding his mountain home.  Now, be it known, that Boney's appearance was a precise index to his character, which had always been as wormwood, from colthood; and old age, joined to the vicissitudes of a mining career, had by no means tended to sweeten his temper.  He had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>This was the <HI REND="italics">finale</HI>
159.sgm:<P>I have not since heard of him, unless my suspicions be correct, that I encountered him lately on the wharf in San Francisco, in the capacity of a hotel runner.  He was at the moment employed in enlarging on the delicacies of his employer's larder, and depreciating that of his rival by dark insinuations of cold dry-hash being served up twenty-one times per week.</P>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>JOE.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>And shall I banish thee from the recollection of those memorable days, my honest, gentle, little Joe? Should I so far do injustice to they memory, well might my nights of slumber in after years, be disturbed by a reproachful vision of thy quaint four-feet-nine figure, snugly appareled in butternut-dyed garments, from the loom of the thrifty helpmate, on the banks of the distant Ohio; and thy half sad, half comical features, anxious and energetic, would recall me to a portion of my duty yet unfulfilled.</P>
159.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>My first acquaintance with him, occurred in a small mining camp in the county Tuolumne, of which locality he had been a resident for more than nine months, prior to my own arrival.  He had not yet attained his majority, but was already the protector of a wife and son, in one of the western states; and his features displayed that subdued and care worn expression, so often set down by the enemies of the sex, as the unfailing type of henpecking; and, to say the truth, a daguerreotype which he much treasured, displaying the ample bust and commanding features of his buxom better half, served in no way to disprove the reports, of his submission to a protracted system of petticoat government.  Be this as it might, his search for gold--like thousands of others--had been a vain one, and his bad luck, united to his eccentric system of labor, was a standing jest to each lazy lounger of the grocery; and harsh witticisms, touching his mortgaged corn patch at home, and the iron rule of his gigantic partner, were broken unfeelingly, in the presence of the inoffensive little man.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Joe, however, appeared to pay no attention to their impertinent inuendoes; he persevered industriously in his avocation as a digger, injured no one, and calmly sank his shafts.  His plan of labor, which he had strictly attached himself to, during his whole residence in the camp, was the most exciting, yet riskey, of any to which a miner can possibly apply himself.  He could always, by working in the ravines, make small but constant wages, and thus, by frugality and industry, eventually save money--but he had much ambition, and he well knew, that the deep diggings, although on the average presenting a dangerous lottery, were the ones in which the largest strikes were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Each day, regularly, as the sun first gilded the massive eastern brow of the Table mountain, might his unobtrusive form be seen, treading his way amid the huge bolders of scoria, that lay thickly over the whole district, as they had rolled down in the march of time, from the mountain summit--stooping beneath the weight of his pick and shovel on one shoulder, and his pan supported beneath the opposite arm; his meek eyes bent upon the path, beaten by his own constant footsteps, and his mind no doubt recalling past scenes of his distant home.  At the time I saw him, more than thirty holes had been sunk to the ledge, but as yet the proceeds had barely sufficed, to purchase for him life's necessaries.  But still he toiled, through wind and rain, or scorching sun, as the seasons rolled on in their relentless course, and gradually the well worn butternuts exhibited unequivocal symptoms of decay; for dark patches of a foreign color and material, already defaced the original well-grounded dye.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The last shovelful of the forty-fifth shaft, left him some dollars in arrears at the store, on a Saturday evening, and another three weeks would complete his term of probation.  With astonishing pertinacity, he commenced a new one on the succeeding Monday, and on the same day at noon was master of $500.  The long wished for lead had been at length found, and in four weeks more he departed for his home, with a purse of $12,000--leaving, with characteristic generosity, $50 with a surgeon, to set the broken leg of a good-for-nothing scamp, who had unceasingly made him the subject of his coarse wit.  Fare thee well, Joseph!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE AUCTIONEER.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>Six Hundred and Forty Rod Bar, on the lower portion of a worn out river, had an evil reputation; the place was, besides, very unprepossessing in exterior, and not a whit better than its looks would seem to imply.  The gold was so very fine, that it was scarcely perceptible, and its proudest boast--for every camp has certain private annals of its own--was of a famous individual yelept Hardbread, who had, on one solitary occasion, according to tradition, fallen foul of a pocket on the ledge, and had he not been attacked with an unnatural fantasy to wash his shirt while in the very spring-tide of good fortune, would actually have acquired five dollars, between sun and sun.  But the story is wrapped in much myth, for, though I shame to write it, the Six Hundred and Forty Rod Barrites were much given to lying.</P>
159.sgm:<P>A generally unerring guide to judge the prosperity of a mining camp is the store, and probably few scurvier depots for merchandize ever existed, than the one that graced the most commanding position on our bar.  For a hundred feet of a radius it was completely blocked up by a perfect <HI REND="italics">chevaux de frize</HI>
159.sgm: of empty boxes and barrels, superannuated mining tools, and the leavings of every broken miner who had shaken off the dust of his feet against the place, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>When I first met the lord and master of all this delectable property, I made an effort to rouse myself, feeling almost persuaded that I labored under a hideous attack of nightmare.  I thought it might be a vision of Elshender the recluse, or maybe the old man of the sea, but it was actual bone and muscle, and that of the most substantial description, as I was often convinced of afterwards, by witnessing its effect, in chastising various delinquent debtors.  He had followed the occupation of mining for nearly half a century, yet were his great square proportions still well developed, and his gigantic strength unimpaired.  The bow-like form of his nether extremities, was occasioned by four or five breaks, both arms had been disjointed and permitted to set themselves, and finally, a blow-up of gunpowder had disarranged his features--if I may use the term--promiscuously.</P>
159.sgm:<P>But all these personal defects did not appear to disturb old Tom an atom; he was remarkably industrious himself and strange as it may appear, he was the means of inducing others to follow his example, often under a penalty of personal punishment.  The reasons were obvious, we all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>For some weeks' time had gone on with me in monotonous poverty, and gradually the dreaded ultimatum lowered blacker and blacker in the horizon.  One evening about sundown, while plodding homeward tired and disconsolate, carrying the proceeds of a day's labour, comprised in the space of a spoonful of sand, I was attracted by a crowd in the grand plaza of our town and the tones of a speaker, who with eloquent gesticulation and bell-like lungs, appeared--in his own opinion at least--to be pounding upon some subject of overwhelming import, to his whole clay-covered audience, if not to the entire family of man.  Now I had often heard of conventions and caucuses, and indignation meetings, and squatter riots, and all such little ebullitions of popular feeling, characteristic of liberty and this free country in particular; but as yet, I was only one of the benighted, though burning with laudable thirst for knowledge, so I also approached, and aided to enlarge the number of attentive listeners.</P>
159.sgm:<P>He was an Eastern man, Connecticut was on his tongue <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>He had, literally, a pocket full of rocks, that he extracted so delicately from their capacious receptacle, they might have been eggs, but we knew better for such an edible had never yet made its appearance on the bar.  They were all <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
159.sgm: pieces of quartz rock, brought from the ground for samples, and labelled to distinguish the representative of each particular lead.  The chairman--as he called himself--of ``The Grand Ophir Quartz Mining Company,'' then arranged these tastefully on the head of a flour barrel, and with the aid of a cracked eye glass, that had long since done service on the plains, in igniting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>``And,'' said he, ``only for these sinners, which we must imper'tively procure, sich a sacrifice would be even beyond the philanthropy of the Grand Ophir Quartz Mining Company.  Now, gentle <HI REND="italics">men</HI>
159.sgm:, I will expose to your inspection, this here most lovely individual of the quartz family; it is number nineteen, from the Franklin Purse lead; and if ever there was a ginooine no mistake article, kalkilated <HI REND="italics">tu</HI>
159.sgm: replenish <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
159.sgm: purse, and <HI REND="italics">tu</HI>
159.sgm: rejoice <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
159.sgm: bosoms of our free people, <HI REND="italics">it</HI>
159.sgm: is here.  You can't but observe, gentle <HI REND="italics">men</HI>
159.sgm:, by the assistance of this magnifying glass, how deeply it <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
159.sgm:<P>There being no response to his most earnest solicitations, even after three-fourths of the poverty-stricken crowd, had vainly examined the geological specimen, he offered another, which he said had been a peculiar pet to the company, and been dedicated on its first discovery to a famous California character.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``It is called the Long Mary Lead, and long will the lead endure to the spirited purchaser--who will find in its deep recesses, a plentiful supply of that which we all came here for.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>This failing also to receive any bids, he tried others.  He had them in profusion, named from all the great men in the country, from Washington to Walker, but still his toil was useless, and his lungs began to fail him.</P>
159.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Just at this time, a voice in the rear of the crowd, exclaimed--``Hallo! old Hardbread!'' And the name of Hardbread was resounded from fifty different throats, for he had become well known as an absconder, in the former year, from the clutches of the relentless storekeeper.  The extreme diffidence and restraint of the recognized auctioneer, was summarily relieved, by the powerful grasp of the injured Thomas himself, who approached and seized him in his grasp of iron, the victim's coat parting like a cobweb in the first rough salute.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Ah! ha!'' said he, with the chuckle of a Quilp, ``How's your health <HI REND="italics">Mister</HI>
159.sgm:<P>A handsaw was produced at his command, and applied vigorously and relentlessly, with it flat side, on the stooping person of the culprit, on the system so much in vogue among mariners, as a punishment to slovenly cooks.  When the cobbing process was through with, Tom twisted him as though it was a kitten, on his shoulders, and waddled off to the river, where he plunged him, hissing hot as he was, with the advice, to make for the opposite shore direct, on pain of another application of the Sheffield manufacture.  ``And,'' concluded Tom, adding wanton insult to injury, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TOBIN.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>Tobin was a fat lymphatic young man of twenty summers, with a large head, very unruly hair, and gifted with an extraordinary appetite.  He was a judge when I first made his acquaintance, and practised law in the city of San Francisco.  As the manner in which he originally obtained this high sounding title, was the same as that by which numbers of others obtained it, and as it may perhaps prove useful to those who thirst for the bubble honor, at a moderate outlay of capital, I will recount it, for their benefit, as I received it from the lips of the lucky aspirant himself.</P>
159.sgm:<P>For all that this county contains the largest amount of wealth and population, of any in the State, the settlements in the townships, outside the limits of the city, are, in general, extremely limited, containing neither gold nor a fruitful soil.  A few days prior to the election of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Tobin, it appeared, eventually got disgusted with red tape, and when I next met him, he was, with myself, employing his talents in surveying the California coast, in the service of government.  This survey has occupied the attention of the United States, ever since the acquisition of the territory; and surveyors, under the direction of officers from the engineer corps, have been constantly placed at the most important points; but what they have achieved, as an equivalent for their heavy demands on the public treasury, I have never yet been able to find out.  Our governor was amply provided with all the requiste means and appliances.  Provisions, wines, mathematical and scientific instruments enough to pry into the most hidden recesses of nature, tents, tools, teems, assistants, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>The captain belonged to that time-honored class, known throughout the length and breadth of the Union, and irreverently denominated Old Fogeys, in contradistinction to the spryer party, called Young America, and however much they may be admired, by those under their immediate control, it must still be allowed that they are rather unprofitable nephews, to their illustrious uncle.  He had achieved laurels in Mexico by some means, but how they pitched on him, for this present duty, it would be hard to say; for although sufficiently slow in discharge of his duty, he failed much in the proverbial accompaniment of sureness.  All opinions with regard to his age, amounted to mere conjecture, for his funny little black eyes, and turn up nose, were alone visible of his features; all else was a mystery, a dreary wilderness of coarse black hair, indignantly defying all impertinent interrogation.  He was short in stature, very ignorant and self opinionated, and without more than the elements of mathematical knowledge, his headstrong conceit, and unscientific manoeuvering, effectually precluded the least glimmering of light, to shine through the impenetrable fog of his reports, even with the hopeless exertions of his assistants.</P>
159.sgm:<P>But, in sooth, the time wore on pleasantly enough, for the cooks and California wages, were good; and in dry weather, we mostly waited for rain to clear the atmosphere; and when wet, we had to postpone our work until it dried.  So that the time was generally filled up both ways in shooting, fishing, and an inordinate quantity of sleep.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>I, at this crisis, was snugly ensconced in the weather stern sheets, and in that dreamy forgetful mood, which the monotonous pipe of the sea breeze is so apt to engender; when I was aroused, by a polite request from him, to remove my person to the lee side, in order, as he said, to adjust the specific gravity of the boat.  One glance at his eyes informed me that he was serious, and another to leeward told me what would be the inevitable result; but a clear pebbly bottom four or five feet deep, on a summer morning was no way distasteful to me, particularly when fun was attached to it, so I promptly obeyed, with as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>What a higglety pigglety mess of <HI REND="italics">triangulation</HI>
159.sgm:<P>Tobin and I shortly united ourselves to another party further up the coast, where we employed ourselves in the lazy occupation of watching the tides rise and fall, by a graded staff.  Many an hour we passed in the little building, like a sentry box, which was erected on two strong sticks of timber, that projected from the steep rock, eternally beat by the long rollers of the ocean.  The staff <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>A few days previous to our departure for another district, we had all our tents removed to a point on the beach, about two miles from the staff, where it was accessible by the boats of the steamer, that made transient calls, at rare intervals; and the watching process was a particularly dreary affair, particularly at night time, for there was no habitation nearer then ten miles off, excepting our one little camp upon the beach.  I arrived one morning about six o'clock, from the camp, for the purpose of relieving my co-worker, who had kept the watch from the previous midnight, and who generally at this time was quite ready for his breakfast; for eating was the only occupation he preferred to studying Castilian.  A small platform of plank, had been placed among the rocks in front of the sentry box, for the purpose of a promenade, when our cramped limbs required relief, and upon placing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>About an hour previous to my arrival, and while day had just dawned, he was sitting on the bench reading by a lamplight, when he thought he heard a step upon the platform.  Surprised at such an early visit, he incautiously opened the door, and found himself close, and face to face with the lion.  Now, Tobin, although as arrant a coward as ever breathed, was remarkably gifted with clumsy strength; and like many others of his calibre, would fight like a hero, when retreat was impossible, as in the present instance.  The savage beast bounded on him as soon as it perceived him, and he had just sufficient time to drop his grammar, and grapple it by the throat in the first embrace.  For a quarter of an hour the deadly fight continued, and for all the agile body of the wild animal, threw him round in every possible direction, breaking the staff to pieces, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:barometer, and various other meteorological instruments, besides dragging him more than once to the very brow of the cliff, and ripping his flesh with its long sharp claws; he still contrived to maintain his desperate gripe upon its windpipe, and fairly managed to strangle it, eventually, with no other arms than the extremely awkward ones, that nature had gifted him with.  Not contended with his victory, when it lay a corpse at his feet, and wishing, probably, to make assurance doubly sure, he proceeded to make it <HI REND="italics">deader</HI>
159.sgm:<P>A few months after this battle he was cashiered for incompetence.  The commanding officer in giving him advice for his future guidance, told him he could not think of retaining him in a service totally unsuited to his talents.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``For,'' said he, ``I am a faithful believer in bumps, and the doctrine that `nothing is made in vain,' and many a night have I lost my golden sleep, in vain speculations as to the cause of your creation; but, <HI REND="italics">Eureka</HI>
159.sgm:<P>Tobin bade us a melancholy adieu, carrying his wardrobe under his arm, which consisted of his grammar and a tooth brush, rolled carefully up in a seedy shooting jacket, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Just one year from this, I again encountered my old friend, in the cabin of a coasting steamer; and if ever a man might be said to have shed the old hair, in the completest style, that man was Tobin! He was attired in faultless black, his thick fingers clogged with precious rings, and his front adorned with gold chains and brooches innumerable.  Hanging affectionately upon his arm, was the loveliest little pet of a Spanish woman imaginable, to whom with a proud and well satisfied air, he introduced me.  She was his wife, aye, actually Mrs. Tobin, was that sweet little Signora.  In a country like this, where the coarsest of Eve's daughters, may make her choice among the greatest in the land, and superciliously reject the very flower of the lords of the creation, this humpbacked, useless creature, had won one of the fairest and richest heiresses, among the landed proprietors of the State.</P>
159.sgm:<P>He had quietly marked out the beautiful Isabella long before, during a temporary halt at a rich ranchero's <HI REND="italics">casa</HI>
159.sgm:, in one of our surveying excursions, and mentally resolved to acquire her musical language, that he might woo and win her, and it was for this object alone that he had consumed so much midnight oil in the lonely tide-house.  ``But,'' concluded he, ``my knowledge of the language would have been insufficient of itself, to bring matters to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:a successful issue, had I not gently intimated by reputable witnesses, that I was a judge; for, one of the greatest weaknesses of this people is their respect for titles; and besides the worthy <HI REND="italics">padre</HI>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE VOYAGE.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>Six or seven years ago, a trip to California, was a very different affair in expense, consumption of time, and risk of life and limb, to what the performance of the same feat is at the present time.  Of the three great routes, viz:--the overland, directly across the continent, the long ocean voyage around Cape Horn, and the way by the isthmus of Darien or Panama; the latter, although originally the most dangerous of the three, has gradually gained ground in the confidence of the public, and is just now immeasurably in advance of any, for speed, comfort, economy, and safety.  The way across the plains at first, and even now, presents itself in the brightest colors, to the settlers along the banks of the Mississippi, and the vast regions watered by the tributaries of that gigantic river.  They possessed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The western, and more especially, the south-western, farmer, collected together his flocks and his herds, his wagons, his wife, his little ones, and even his slaves, if he possessed any, and calmly commenced a journey principally through a barren wilderness, peopled by hostile tribes of savages, warlike and cruel.  Month after month, would he pursue his way, often until six or eight had expired; his weary cattle worn to skin and bone, and perhaps the whole of his family fallen victims to the relentless hate of the aborigines, or the deadlier effects of fatigue and disease.  Numbers of such instances have occurred annually, yet still it is preferred by many to the visionary terrors of a sea voyage; but it is not much patronized now, except by the proprietors of cattle and horses, who often make the trade lucrative, and many indeed follow it, as a regular employment, making annual trips, to purchase stock in the cheap markets of Missouri, Arkansas, and Texas, and finally dispose of them in the higher marts of California and Oregon.</P>
159.sgm:<P>This is the only course upon which no improvement has been made; for excepting at a few scattering posts, where bad provisions are sold almost for their weight in gold, the road is a natural one, and the main portion of the country still in the possession of the wild Camanches, Pawnees, and Sioux.  Yet for all it has received so little improvement by the great trade between the Atlantic and the Pacific, it is destined, eventually,--far above the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The great labor and expense of stowing and discharging a cargo twice over, has, despite the desirable acquisition of the Panama railroad, made the ocean way around the southern extremity of the American continent, the favorite one still, to the shippers of heavy merchandise; and the great improvements in naval architecture, as exemplified in the graceful and light proportions of the new style of clipper ships, aid materially in continuing it as the most practical means of transport.  And notwithstanding that the distance is in the close neighborhood of 15,000 miles, from New York to San Francisco, the passage has been made in a less period than ninety days, little more than one third of the average time consumed in the transit by way of the desert and the territory of Utah.  Six or seven years ago a large portion of the California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>At the time I formed the determination of adding myself to the countless and motley crowd of gold-seekers who were pouring in, not only from civilized and enlightened, but also from the barbarous nations of the earth, the Chagres river was the main thoroughfare to the Pacific, and on my arrival in New York, I found that the berths in the expected steamers were monopolized for at least two months to come.  Now, as backing out of a project on the first rebuff, is not precisely my nature, I hunted diligently around the wharves for some days, with the hope of finding among the forest of masts some means of conveyance to the promised land, and at length succeeded in making an arrangement with the master of a fine little Yankee bark, who was bound on a voyage to the port of Chagres, to convey our company--four in all--to the port of his destination.  We were soon comfortably domiciled in the cabin of the vessel, and after a pleasant run of a month, through the sunny Carribbean, and obtaining a splendid view of the black empire of Saint Domingo, and the much coveted ``gem of the Antilles,'' we hove in sight of the bamboo houses of Chagres.</P>
159.sgm:<P>A New York steamer had just arrived with passengers, and the rush for the river boats was tremendous; but we, along with some twenty others fortunately succeeded in securing a boat to convey us as far as the river was navigable, by paying a very exorbitant price.  The first night we encamped upon the beach, some fifteen miles up, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:we spent a rather sleepless night annoyed by the fear of snakes and centipedes, and the heavy splashing of the crocodiles in the river, hard by.  The next day we accomplished another twenty miles, walking the entire way through thick brambles, for so shallow was the river, that our luggage alone was sufficient cargo for the boat; and at the conclusion of the third day, arrived at the terminus of our river travel.  The next day we made our <HI REND="italics">entree</HI>
159.sgm: into Panama, and although New York and Chagres were sufficiently crowded with anxious enquirers for a passage, the excitement here was ten times more intense.  Thousands like ourselves failing in their object of obtaining through tickets originally, had ventured thus far in the vain hope that a vacancy would occur somewhere, and that, perhaps, fortune might be more propitious to them than to their neighbors, but instead of any such means of progress presenting itself, thousands even of those who actually covenanted for the through trip, were obliged by scarcity of room, to remain for more than two months, giving precedence to the early purchasers.  More than ten thousand strangers it was supposed were congregated at this period, within the walls of this small and unwholesome city, crowds of them too, were sick and utterly penniless, foolishly depending on the chances of working their passages, when hundreds of men familiar to the sea from childhood were begging in the streets.  Some wild and adventurous sailors after laying in a small stock of necessaries, proceeded on this long voyage through the pathless ocean in open whale boats, and some of them actually reached California by this fragile means of conveyance, but the greater number of those who attempted it, either perished or were forced on the Mexican coast, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:though the latter alternative would be much preferable to any, than a lengthened sojourn in this den of horrors, with food only obtainable, at famine prices, and pestilential as the black hole at Calcutta.  Just at this time an extremely bold trick was executed by a piratical craft, and the only sailing vessel in the harbor.  She was advertised to take passengers to San Francisco, and soon had engaged more than three hundred at a high rate.  But the night previous to her expected departure, the anchor was weighed and next morning the dim tracery of her proportions was just visible in the distant horizon as she took her course seaward without a solitary pre-paid passenger on board.  At last a schooner arrived from Valparaiso, bearing the high sounding title of a Baltimore clipper.  She was called `` <HI REND="italics">The Isabella Hermosa</HI>
159.sgm:,'' anglice, Beautiful Isabella, but except in the name itself, it must have been a sharper eye than mine to perceive the least particle of beauty about the graceless little hulk.  At what period the lovely Isabel left the stocks might have been a query worthy the attention of an antiquary, for the form of her hull had the peculiarity of no precise age, nor did her present rig correspond to any recognized system of the present.  She was nearly flat-bottomed, registering about ninety tons and a small poop at one extremity, was the best guide by which to discriminate the stem from the stern.  She was owned, manned and commanded by Italians, and a more awkward boat, managed by a clumsier crew, I trust never attempted to make an ocean passage.  If she had been a New Zealander's war canoe, however, she could have no difficulty there in filling up with twice the passengers to which she was legally authorized, and in just three days from the time of her arrival she was ready for sea, with a complement <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>She was quite a Republican ship, was the <HI REND="italics">Isabel Hermosa</HI>
159.sgm:<P>Our 130 men were divided into ten equal portions, each forming precisely a baker's dozen, the odd man holding the office of captain of the mess, and was elected daily.  Each individual was provided with a plate and a half pint cup, made of tin, together with an iron spoon; but as many lost these useful utensils, through carelessness, and had no delicacy in helping themselves from their neighbors, whenever opportunity occurred for the perpetration of the theft, great numbers had very shortly to perform <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:the nourishing process by the natural use of teeth and claws.  The eatables were of the simplest kind, and I must do the chief manager the justice to say, that although he was a native of Paris, and <HI REND="italics">sacre'd</HI>
159.sgm: with all the volubility of a Frenchman, the cookery was by no means complicated, for, to the best of my knowledge, he never inflicted a ragout or a kickshaw upon us, during the entire passage.  Our staple food consisted of yams and jerked beef, procured at Panama.  The yam is a root, somewhat resembling a coarse grained potato, and is familiar to most persons--at least by repute--but the ``jerky,'' as we contemptuously termed it at first, may require some little explanation.  The Spanish cattle are remarkably lank, rawboned creatures, wild as deer.  They are invariably captured for the butcher, by <HI REND="italics">lassoing</HI>
159.sgm:, and the calling of a <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
159.sgm:, as the cowhunter is termed, requires great skill and experience both in horsemanship and the use of the <HI REND="italics">rietta</HI>
159.sgm:<P>He proceeds upon a horse trained for the purpose, and after selecting his animal from the herd, he commences to run it down.  After being exhausted by the chase, the creature at length stands at bay, and the <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The flesh is cut from the bones, in thin narrow strips; it is then thrown over a pale to dry in the sun, and finally packed away in its own hide with some salt sprinkled among it, the whole carcase thus forming a moderate load <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Now, I have no prejudice against the Spaniards.  In fact, I rather admire them, for their politeness, their hospitality, and their enjoyment of the luxury of ease, but candor compels me to admit, that the institution of jerked beef adds little to their favor in my eyes, for the recollection of its mastication gives me the toothache to the present hour.  It is not at all too palatable when taken fresh from the pole, but sweltering in its leather case, beneath a tropical sun, for months, sadly deteriorates from the original flavor, even without the usual accompaniment of worms.  However, as we had nothing else particularly to occupy our attention, we had plenty of time to chew, and the exercise was perhaps rather salutary than otherwise, taking up such an important portion of the day; for the intermediate time was chiefly spent in quarreling with each other in words, or the eternal exercise of the patent pistol.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Water and provisions had been laid in, on the estimate that the passage would be performed in six weeks, but at the end of a month we found ourselves just four hundred miles on our course, which left the remaining twenty-eight hundred miles to be performed in two weeks.  It had been almost a dead calm for the whole period, and and we knew not how long it might continue, yet at a council called by the master, for the purpose of learning our wish, it was agreed by the majority, that we should persevere in the attempt to reach California without putting back, and lengthen our time by reducing our rations one half.  Then was the time to try men's stomachs! The black putrid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:water which had previously been despised, was now sought after with avidity, and became sweet and palatable, while even the formerly despised <HI REND="italics">jerky</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The bottle was suspended around the neck of each, by a cord, and remained there night and day, for should it be left a moment in any other position, unwatched by the proprietor, the contents would be unscrupulously swallowed by the first thirsty soul who got his eye upon the treasure.  Our tempers, none of the sweetest previous to the scarcity, became if possible more crabbed than ever, and a spirit of contradiction and combativeness appeared to be nourished in every breast.  The hold was so very shallow and close, that no one attempted to rest below, and in consequence, the entire deck fore and aft, was covered with sleepers each night, and so predominant is habit in the nature of man, under any circumstances, that each one was to the full as persistent in retaining his usual position on the dirty deck, as he would formerly have been with regard to his chair at the family table.  The right of first discovery was chiefly allowed, although many a bloody nose was the effect of a struggle for a coil of rope, or the greasy bilge of a pork barrel; for from the contumaciousness of some, who persisted in lying in what form they pleased, many were obliged to take their nightly slumbers in a sitting posture, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>For more than a week after the allowance system had been established, we had fair fresh breezes from the south, and made good progress during that time, for even a hay stack would sail before the wind, and our vessel was fully a match for that.  But as we neared the gulf of California, the raw north-west breeze so peculiar to that latitude, forced us to sail on a wind for another week, beating backwards and forwards, without gaining an inch, until finally the dissatisfaction became so great, it was determined to bear up and make a fair wind for the harbor of Acapulco in Mexico, twelve hundred miles north-west from Panama, at which place we arrived in fifty-two days from the time of our departure.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Acapulco is a beautiful, well sheltered little harbor, easy of entrance, and in an excellent position for a flourishing trade, but the indolent inhabitants make but little use of the advantages they possess.  Its intermediate position on the California route, together with its convenience to a rich inland country for supplies, have made it a great coal depot for all the steamers on the coast, that call regularly both ways.  When we arrived in port, we found three more vessels, precisely in a similar position to our own, filled with passengers, half starved, and nearly destitute.  To our amazement and concern, we were here given to understand by these unfortunates, that the vessels were to proceed no further, the captains declaring, they had no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>The indignant citizens of the great republic posted at once to their Consul with the story of their wrongs, and when they were at last brought face to face with that official, after he had dodged them successfully until late in the afternoon, they received a flat refusal of any assistance from him, accompanied with an insulting command to leave his presence.  And this I have found to be the general character of these gentlemen in all unimportant ports, for their salary from government being quite insufficient for their support, men of talent and respectability rarely accept of the office, and those who do, are only approachable by a bribe, which is their real wages.</P>
159.sgm:<P>There was a poor young lad on board of the vessel a native of Indiana, lying very sick with the Chagres <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:fever, which he had contracted on the Isthmus, and a friend of mine who took a great interest in his case, endeavoured to persuade some of the Americans to intercede with their Consul for his removal to the hospital, for he was at the time dying by inches from unwholesome food and impure air, but they were much too irritated at their rebuff to attempt facing his highness once more.  He then proposed to me that we should make the attempt of softening the heart of the United States representative, for the sake of the dying youth, to which I consented, and we proceeded at once to the great man's door.  A smart negro wench responded to our summons, who left us to apprize her lord, of our request to see him, saying--``Law Massa, ef here aint two more starved Yankees a-wanting summat.'' The inside door was then opened with a bang, and the fiery Consul strode into the hall to meet us, looking red as a steamboat light, from the combined effects of <HI REND="italics">agua dente</HI>
159.sgm: and indignation.  ``Hallo'' said he, ``more on you? Didn't I tell the others to show their ugly faces no more, or I'd put them on board a man-of-war, as sure as there's niggers in Baton Rouge? Why don't you speak?'' continued he in a voice like thunder, ``What do you want? Air you citizens?'' The fervent ``No thank God,'' in reply, appeared to mollify our fierce questioner so much, that he heard our simple request patiently without interruption, and then replied, much calmer--``Now ain't you a pretty considerable pair of green gawneys, I mought have known you were none of our folks.  Du you know what you are, sure? I'll tell you and no offence,'' then fixing his hand up to resemble an ear trumpet he applied it to his mouth, saying in a loud confidential whisper, ``Yer f-fools! What on airth is it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<HI REND="italics">your</HI>
159.sgm:<P>An iron hook on each side of the Consul's door inspired my partner with a bright idea, and our resolution was formed upon the instant.  We proceeded back to our dirty craft and after informing the invalid of our intention we conveyed him ashore, hammock and all, as gently as possible to the house whose door had been shut in our faces.  We then suspended each end of it to the iron hooks leaving the body to hang directly across the door, at a height of three feet.  The poor boy was visibly improved by the change of quarters, for the air was pure and refreshing to his emaciated frame, and the flaunting flag of his native land, as it waved proudly over him, served one very useful purpose at least, by sheltering his person from the fierce rays of the sun.</P>
159.sgm:<P>A crowd soon collected in the street opposite to the mansion, all gazing in wonder at the novel spectacle, and his Excellency, as he watched from the window, opened the door to find the cause of so many enquiring looks.  One glance at the obstruction informed him of the cause, and our presence in the front ranks confirmed it.  In speechless rage at the disgrace we put him to, he shook his clenched claws savagely, and fiercely shut out the horrible vision.  A few minutes after, however, the wench was seen dodging beneath the hammock and posting rapidly towards the hospital, from whence she was soon followed by two stout men bearing a litter, who shortly after conveyed the invalid to comfortable quarters.</P>
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159.sgm:<P>We then made our application to the British Consul, who received us kindly, and advised us to retain our hold on the vessel for the present, promising to use his best endeavours to make the Captain forward us to the desired port.  The Captain had already sent us a supply of such provisions as the market afforded, enough for a few days, and living partly on board and partly ashore, we contrived to pass a week or two in anxious expectation.  The time though passed pleasantly enough, for the novelty of everything surrounding us possessed deep interest to those having a particle of observation or curiosity.  The sombre piercing eyed natives, their sultry brows shaded by their broad grass hats, every movement rife with natural grace, even to the set of the tattered blanket on their shoulders--the sylphlike forms of the females poising great baskets of fruit on their heads, tripping to the market, laughing and talking to each other in their own musical tongue--the broad fringe of cocoa nut and orange trees in perpetual verdure skirting the bases of the bleak rocky hills, that surround the haven--the never-exhausted cock and bull fights, and the ever-changing interest called forth in the features of the looker on--the waters of the bay sparking in the sunshine clear as crystal, filled with strange and uncouth formed fishes--and tiny children of six years old, floating in luxurious ease upon its surface close to the vessels, watching the descent of a picayune from some kind hand, and ready to seize it e'er its descent to the flashing coral beneath.</P>
159.sgm:<P>But the craving desire of reaching the land of gold, soon overwhelmed every other in my eyes, and tired of tiring out our Italian commander, I again took passage in an upward bound steamer, with a complement of 1500.  The crowd was equally oppressive with the smaller vessel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>But Cape St. Lucas and the long low sandhills of the lower peninsula are passed, the long looked for Farallone Islands, and the deep fissure of the golden gate present themselves to our longing eyes, the cannon belches forth its flame as we round Clark's Point, and the queen city of the Western world shines brightly on the slopes of Yerba Buena.  In two weeks more all the British and French subjects of the wretched <HI REND="italics">Isabel Hermosa</HI>
159.sgm: --at least the living portion--arrived in San Francisco, for more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE SALTER.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>I have alluded once the process termed ``salting,'' and the usual method by which it is performed by a shot gun, but various other ingenious plans are resorted to for the perpetration, all tending to the same object, viz: the change of funds, from the pockets of the green to those of the ``smart.''  But a great degree of acuteness is necessary at the present day, to cheat any the least suspicious and possessing a moderate degree of experience.</P>
159.sgm:<P>Alick Ross, a tall raw-boned North Briton, had long been in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, and was a resident of California for several years prior to the discoveries at Sutter's Mill.  He had constantly adhered to mining, and being naturally a shrewd fellow, had of course acquired much skill, as well as a correct judgment of the quality of ground from its consistence, and the value of gold in various districts, particularly as he had tried his hand in nearly every camp of the entire region.  Our camp, which was on a branch of the Calaveras, contained very spotted diggings, and as a consequence, large strikes had been made at various times, that had the effect of obtaining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Alick arrived one day, and soon had it gossiped round, that he was in search of a good claim to purchase, but as we afterwards discovered, he had not one week's board ahead, for although he had made money, he took care, like many cautious ones, to dispatch it home as fast as he acquired it.  He put up at the hotel, however, ``showed out'' handsomely at the bar, and in an extremely short space of time, had many tenders of great bargains.  The fraternity tried him with several, but none prospected sufficiently well to meet his views until he was at last handed over to the guardianship of the most famous salter in the whole neighborhood, that he might try his experience upon him.  This man was well acquainted with all the principal leads, and at this time was the owner of the best claim in the camp, but he only performed sufficient labor upon it, as maintained his right according to the mining laws, trusting rather to his aptitude for swindling, than the exercise of his animal strength.  It happened, unfortunately for him, that this really good claim was the only one over which he had control at that period, having just disposed of a worthless one a few days before, at a high price; but his cupidity could not withstand the temptation of plundering the reputedly wealthy Scotchman, and he formed the resolution of making it in the end a worse purchase than he had previously sold.  He seeded it down very thick, with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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159.sgm:<P>Every pan that was tried, produced four or five dollars, and in the course of three hours he had extracted more than a hundred dollars, which he deposited in a tin tobacco box of his own.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Well,'' said the impatient seller, at last, ``I guess you've given it a pretty good sifting now, How d'ye like it?''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Vera weel, vera weel,'' answered Alick, rolling his quid around leisurely, and examining with the eye of a connoiseur, the sample in the tin box, ``An' what may be your price now, clear cash in your lif?''</P>
159.sgm:<P>``Six thousand scads, ne'er a red less,'' said the hopeful salter.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``It's a purty penny, a vera purty penny, but I'll no gainsay't, the prospect's guid, though ane wee bit o' a phenomenon I canna get through my auld pate, and that's this--How in the name o' Auld Reekie, did Tuolumne gold get stuck in here?''</P>
159.sgm:<P>The operator perceived at once that he was sold, and that instead of a victim, he had fallen in with a shark.  All hope of a sale died away at once, and he indignantly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>``Dinna try that, dinna try that,'' exclaimed Alick, ``you will never handle a pickle of it, and what's more, I'll advise you as a freen, to pick up your duds and tramp, for in twa hours from now, the boys will all know't, and you'll have a hempen cravat on your scrag of a neck before sundown, if they can lay their cloots on you.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>The foiled scoundrel knew this well, and left on the instant, before his last attempt became public, and Alick at once installed himself on the deserted premises, where by hard labor and frugality, he soon accumulated a handsome sum.</P>
159.sgm:<P>There was another deep old tactician in our immediate vicinity, who was familiarly named the ``mariner.'' He spake little to any one, and appeared so little cognizant of surrounding affairs, that it was said, his long aquatic experience had caused his very brains to be encrusted with barnacles.  To another old man of the sea, was he alone at all communicative, and from him were afterwards gleaned facts, to prove the mariner rather a smart man than the reverse.  He had worked long in solitude, and a very large hole was the result of many months of uninterrupted labor.  It was known that little had resulted yet from it, not even expenses, for he was slightly in debt at two or three places.</P>
159.sgm:<P>One morning, confused rumors were afloat, that the mariner had found a rich lead.  It was said that he had washed out on the preceding evening, fifteen ounces of gold, from dirt he had thrown up on the bank.  Some showed joy, and some envy, at his success, and next morning a great crowd of inquisitive persons, idlers, and creditors surrounded him, as he plied his rocker assiduously.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:His expressionless parchment countenance betrayed no symptoms of triumph or thankfulness at his success.  It seemed indeed, as though fortune's gifts were fairly squandered on such an unimaginative senseless lump of clay, and I dare say many of the lookers on thought within themselves, that had fate showered such a blessing upon <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
159.sgm:<P>The old man stopped his labor, and after looking vacantly at the superscription of the epistle, requested the storekeeper to decipher the contents for him, as he was unable to perform that object for himself, having no acquaintance with book learning.  The merchant complied, and they retired a few feet to one side, where he read the letter in a loud whisper, perfectly audible to a large porsion of the bystanders.  It was a short one, but it was full of bitter words to the tempest tossed veteran.  It purported <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Bidders were numerous and competition strong, for everything looked propitious.  A company bid $7000 for it, and were declared the purchasers, after a very animated sale.  The old man left for the city that very afternoon with the cash in his pocket, to comfort her whom in his youthful days he had sworn to protect and cherish, and the pump was busily at work next morning in emptying the shaft.  It took more than two days to perform this, and get rid of the waste earth that had caved in, but when this was accomplished their labor was at an end, for a cent prospect was the best they could procure.  The mystery as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SEBASTOPOL IS TAKEN.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>The old proverb which says ``Extremes in nature equal ends produce'' never appeared more fully exemplified than in the sympathy shown, particularly by the democratic press and people, for Russia in its late struggle with the Allies, and in no portion of the world not directly interested in the engagement, was the news more eagerly read and commented upon.  The British and French residents of San Francisco are a very important item in the wealth and population of the place, and unlike the same people in other States but few of them calculate on a life residence in the country, and in consequence rarely acquire the rights of citizens, but retain still a due affection for the land of their nativity, where they eventually intend to make their permanent homes.  Now the native citizens can't understand how it is possible for people who have once tasted the sweets of liberty in such a happy land, to sigh for monarchy.  They will at first mildly expostulate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>But this hatred to anything savoring of a crown, will hardly be sufficient to account for the morbid fancy felt by the people, to see England thoroughly smashed by the Russians, and France also, like dog Tray, for being in such questionable company, for Russia was unfortunate enough to possess the same hateful emblem.  Undoubtedly the dislike to anything British, so grounded in their first school lessons, would account for the side taken, even by a portion of the conservatives, but a far deeper vein even than this, won the sympathies of the Loco Focos for the Panslavist.  It was the well defined similarity that existed between the worst features of Russian policy and the present prominent essence of democracy, namely slavery and filibusterism, and the movement of mighty power uncontrolled by conscientious judgment.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The feeling so prevalent in the metropolis, was equally rife in the little mountain towns, and many an ounce of dust and bottle of brandy exchanged owners, when the fall of the Malakoff became known in the mountains, and many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Nathan Suggs was a fat good-natured old Southerner, reasonable in most things, excepting slavery and the Russian war, with their collaterals.  He owned a good claim, and his nearest neighbor who held the adjoining ground, was his direct antipodes both in body and in politics, His name was Louis, and his nation Canada East; he was a mass of bone and muscle, clumsily put together, but possessing in his constitution the elements of uncommon agility and endurance, although slightly beyond the middle term of life.  Louis's feelings were doubly enlisted in the great struggle that was convulsing Europe, he was both a clear descendant of one of the illustrious allies, and a subject of the other, yet his chief pride was in the latter, for once a person while toasting Napoleon, with a view of pleasing the supposed Frenchman, was rudely interrupted by the Canadian exclaiming, ``Peesh for Napolyaw! me no care for France, me Anglicehomme.''</P>
159.sgm:<P>Each evening after work did the excited Canadian and Southerner fight their windy battle, without a hope of mutual agreement, until they finally made a bet of six gallons of whiskey, the Canadian affirming that the City of Sebastopol would be stormed within a month, which Nathan Suggs persistently denied.  A cessation of hostilities <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Nathan took the paper very sulkily from him and very soon convinced himself of the loss of his whiskey, and at once proposed to adjourn to his cabin for the purpose of extracting the precious fluid from the barrel, but Louis managed to commute it for a promise from Suggs, that he would treat the crowd at the bar of the hotel in the evening, where a miner's meeting was to be held for the adjustment of a claim.  When the business of the evening was concluded, Louis who had retained all the papers and thus prevented the circulation of the news, solemnly arose and informed the meeting--which numbered more than a hundred--of the great victory achieved, in a confused speech of French, Spanish and English, ``And now Messieurs,'' said he, ``as this is the greatest achievement of modern times, my mooch respected amigo, Monfrere Signor Suggs, has kindly consented to treat all de gentlemen here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>For all that, the news stunk in the nostrils of many and a hiss had been with great difficulty suppressed, thirst finally triumphed, and the conclusion of the Canadian's address was received with three times three and a tiger.  The discomfitted Nathan had no opportunity of denying the sentiments imputed to him by his political antagonist, but his honour being pledged, he was obliged to disburse for the refreshment of the whole, to the unpleasant little sum of $25.</P>
159.sgm:<P>But the joy of the allies in San Francisco was to be celebrated in a more substantial manner.  A banquet on a truly magnificent scale was prepared at their expense, to which not only the corporation was invited, but also all the principal Americans in the place, and indeed so large were the supplies and so general the welcome, that the whole city was privileged to partake of the repast, which consisted of all the delicacies the bounteous market afforded.  A level space in a new park was chosen for the scene, and the day was ushered in by cannon, music and flags, in gorgeous profusion.  The English and French vessels in the harbor were adorned with the flags of their respective nations blended together, but no American flag was visible except on the banquet ground, where it floated at an equal height with the others.  All went on smoothly until the dinner was half concluded, when the suppressed feelings of the sons of liberty could no longer endure the desecration.  The allied flags were first depressed a few feet lower than the stars and stripes, but, even this failing to soothe their feelings, they finally hauled France and England <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WAR IN CHINA.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>In the same district where I held the office of Recorder of Claims, the rights of the Asiatics were well respected; for as the new ditch did not make fortunes for people, quite so fast as it was originally supposed, it was found particularly handy to dispose of their claims for a consideration; and as the Chinese are the easiest satisfied, with regard to paying ground, they were always the best customers for these indifferent claims, and by these means rose vastly in public estimation.  As is customary with them in all the other places, they are perfectly submissive to white authority, and scarcely ever attempt to resist even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Two rival districts were the candidates for public favor in this camp; one party was from Canton, the other from Hong Kong, and really their undying rancour towards each other, could hardly find a parallel, unless perhaps between the Far-downs and Corkonians, or the Yankees and Border Ruffians in the Kansas Territory.  Although they originally kept as far divided as possible, so fast did they purchase, that they touched at last on each other, and then commenced that bickering between them that finally led to most disastrous consequences on the whole.  Their numbers were about 150 in each, and generally once or twice a week they had a turn out to fight.  When the fortunes of the day had turned, a runner from the defeated party would invariably proceed to me, and implore my assistance to quell the riot, with a five dollar piece in his hand.  As this operation rarely consumed more than five minutes, I usually complied, unless very particularly engaged, as I seldom fell in with a more profitable and safe investment of time, for so afraid were they of general expulsion on account of their pugnacious spirit, that a truce invariably followed my presence on the battle field.</P>
159.sgm:<P>There was a sort of mandarin on the weaker side, whom we called <HI REND="italics">captain</HI>
159.sgm:, on account of the power he seemed to wield.  He was rather a gentlemanly good looking fellow, for one of his race, and did little besides smoke opium, which luxury cost him, he said, three dollars per day.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>A week had expired, and I had almost forgotten the circumstance, when one morning I was handed a billet by Zaddock, bearing an official look, which on opening, I found to my extreme surprise and humiliation, contained an appointment for me to the judgeship.  Shades of my ancestors, blush for your unworthy descendant! I who had always valued a good reputation, and conducted myself orderly and peacefully, to be thus disgraced.  In what unguarded moment had I left myself open to such an insult, I could not recall.  But I determined to decline, and returned an answer to that effect to the board, urging in palliation, that I was not qualified for the office, there being no prospect that I should ever acquire the honors of citizenship.</P>
159.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Poor Zaddock was much offended at my resolve, for he had taken the trouble, unknown to me, of carrying round the petition that finally led to the appointment, and he built his hopes on being made a special constable; for as the judge and constable are invariably partners, it would have been a good speculation, between the daily allowance of the mandarin, together with absorption of all fines and the profits resulting from transient business.  I left this place a few days after, and did not return again for more than five months, but great doings had occurred during the first month of my absence.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The Hong Kong and Canton riots burned with exceeding fury at first, and so deadly did the animosity finally become, that a challenge to mortal combat was given and accepted.  Couriers were dispatched to all adjacent camps for the respective friends of the belligerents, to make their appearance on a certain day of a certain moon, ``armed and equipped as the law directs,'' and some thousands were shortly in motion carrying their rations of boiled rice to the Chinese stamping ground.  The following is something near a literal translation of the challenge from the one Chieftain to the other.</P>
159.sgm:<P>``The high and mighty man of power, Sam Yap, condescends to speak to the woman-hearted spotted dog, Ah Whop, to tell him that his people are nothing but as dung beneath the feet of Sam Yap's men of war; you think you can fight us, and you are welcome to try.  We will use our weapons to punish you, but we will not load all our muskets, for our bare hands would be quite enough if we liked, to chase such yelping curs.  Your puny efforts will no more affect us than the ocean waves do a rock bound coast.  You will smash as an egg, thrown from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Such a billet as that, was enough to irritate the people of Ques, to whom it was dispatched, and soon the rival armies met in desperate combat with all the panoply and imposing sound peculiar to eastern warfare.  During the height of the preparations, an observant citizen got himself quietly installed into the magistracy, but bided his time to make it profitable.  He made no attempt to interfere with the coming struggle, but along with some neighbouring brethren of the bench, secretly encouraged it; and then with a few mounted constables, he and the others soon divided the armies and commenced to capture.  This occasioned the most serious riot of the day, for, although the Chinese attempted no resistance, the different magistrates fell out about the prisoners, one imagining the other had more than his rightful share; but as they had several hundreds each, they shortly came to an understanding after a few pistol shots and a broken arm or two.  Each conqueror then led his prisoners to his own home for trial, and fined them from $100 down to a dollar, according to their several resources, keeping the whole amount to themselves, and my honorable successor made the comfortable little thing of $15,000 for his services in preserving the public peace.</P>
159.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CONCLUSION.</HEAD>
159.sgm:<P>Gentle Reader, who has followed me thus far in my wanderings, I will now release you, for my pleasant task is ended.  No more shall we breathe together the life-giving atmosphere of El Dorado's shores, or pry into the deep mines, where the coarse gold lies imbedded in the cool crevices of the slaty bed-rock.  No more shall we tread with each other o'er the far reaching flower covered prairies, and smile at national characteristics or quaint individual peculiarities.  You will soon forget both these and me.  The grim mountain, the water-fall and the brawling river, with the careless lives of the generally happy gold hunters, which I have endeavoured to picture for our mutual amusement, will soon fade from your mind like an artificial panorama.  More courtly drawings will soon obliterate the coarse daub from your recollection; but long must be my life before the scenes that called forth these Ramblings will be forgotten.  But in truth, much as there is of the romantic in the wild vagaries of nature, I acknowledge that with me, the recollections of the ludicrous will long outlive the sublime, and the eccentric motions of animated nature, chiefly overshadow the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:beautiful though solemn scenes of the inanimate.  I must still laugh when I think of the way my poor friend D_______ sprained his ancle, and was lame for a month in consequence.  He was a boarder with a farmer in Santa Cruz, who had a ranch close to the foothills of the Coast Range, which at this point was a great resort of grizzly bears.  The house was built near the brow of an elevated flat, from whence the ground gently descended to a broad bottom land; the wheat had just been taken off, and the cattle were feeding in plenty on the rich refuse of the stubble field, close to the fence of the garden which occupied a portion of the slope.  One evening after the whole household had for some time retired to rest, the family were aroused by the agonized bellowing of an unfortunate ``critter'' in the flat.  So constant and severe were the sounds, that all were soon convinced a grizzly had made the milky mother Kate, his prey, who was last seen quietly chewing the cud and surveying the good things within the garden fence.  The farmer not being a sporting character, handed D_______.  the venerable flint-lock musket, which had been loaded but not discharged for three months previous, and accompanied him to the field to dispute possession with Bruin, who by the weaker complaints still growing fainter through the pitchy darkness, was evidently coming to the tender steaks.  D_______.  cautiously approached the bloody ground, stealing along by the fence, his companion <HI REND="italics">backing</HI>
159.sgm: him, but a good way off, and on seeing the outlines of the struggling animals he boldly presented and blazed away at the centre of the heap.  The chief mischief was probably done by the rebound, for it knocked the musketeer flat, who on gaining his feet saw his backer making great progress up the hill towards the bosom of his family, D_______.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>Nor can I easily forget that Sunday morning, that we lost all our rockers and tools, on the banks of Little John Creek, by the rapid rising of this mountain torrent.  The large creek had declined to a rivulet during a long dry spell, and although a heavy rain had fallen on Saturday night, the rise was so imperceptible in the morning, we did not deem it essential to remove our implements any further from the waters edge, than we had left them the night before.  It had been noised around for a few days, that a young lady had made her appearance at a neighbouring ranch, and as such commodities were rare in our parts, the greatest ladies' man in our company made up his mind to pay her a visit.  He consumed four dollars in the purchase of a complete new suit at the store, consisting of a pair of cow-hide shoes and cotton pants, a shirt and a fifty cent straw hat, and being rather a good looking fellow when his hair and beard were oiled with some pork drippings, it was generally supposed that the sucker girl's heart would be carried by storm.  While the gallant was away, time hung rather heavy upon our hands, particularly as there were no shirts worth mending, and Uncle Ben--a funny little fisherman from some region contiguous to Cape Cod--was deputed to cross the river on horseback, in pursuit of a bottle containing something to cheer the drooping spirits of the party.</P>
159.sgm:<P>The bed of the river, although so nearly dry, was upwards of a hundred yards across, and Uncle Ben--who was rather deaf, by the way--had just entered it, successful in his mission, and on his return.  While watching his progress, I detected the roaring of waters, and looking higher up, saw a body of water looking more than five feet deep, rushing furiously down towards the old man, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>The whiskey suffered severely by the disaster, but failed to comfort, and the lover who returned at night with a very sour visage, contributed but little to restore the usual cheerfulness of the party.  ``It was a most confounded bad road,'' said he, ``for it took me above the ancles several times, and filled my shoes with mud, and as the pants were short, and I had no socks, it sadly deteriorated from my general good appearance, but I stuck to it till I reached the cabin, which was nothing but an old patched mainsail of a fore and after, with the reef points still fast to it, thrown over a line attached to a couple of trees.  As the place had no door, I rattled my stick on an old cracker tin, and a sharp voice sung out--`Stop that, you!'  So I stopped, lifted up the rotten duck, and exposed myself and the occupant to each other at the same time.  She was all alone, and rigged out in the yellowest furniture cotton dress you ever set your eyes on, which hung loose on her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>But it is too late to become loquacious now, for I am, as I said, at the conclusion of these my recollections.  I drop the pen with regret; but I fear to weary in recounting scenes, that however amusing in their origin, with local circumstances attached, may fail to interest in the repetition, with no such accompaniments to give zest.</P>
159.sgm:<P>My tale is told, of California and the vicissitudes of its people, and much as I have endured of the unpleasant in my experience, I can truthfully say, that pleasing remembrances most predominate; and whatever my after fate may be, in the great game of life at which we are all playing--some staking golden nuggets, and some copper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
159.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
159.sgm:<P>THE END</P>
159.sgm:<BACK><P>TORONTO:</P>
159.sgm:<P>BLACKBURN'S CITY STEAM PRESS, 68 YONGE STREET.</P>
160.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-160</TITLE>
160.sgm:<TITLE>The gold seekers of '49; a personal narrative of the overland trail and adventures in California and Oregon from 1849 to 1854.  By Kimball Webster, a New England forty-niner; with an introduction and biographical sketch by George Waldo Browne; illustrated by Frank Holland and others: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
160.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
160.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
160.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
160.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
160.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
160.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>18-22511</LCCN>
160.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
160.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
160.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P><illus entity="a160-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>KIMBALL WEBSTER IN '49.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The Gold Seekers of '49<LB>A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE OVERLAND TRAIL AND<LB>ADVENTURES IN CALIFORNIA AND OREGON<LB>FROM 1849 TO 1854.<LB>BY KIMBALL WEBSTER<LB>A NEW ENGLAND FORTY-NINER<LB><HI REND="italics">With an introudction and Biographical Sketch</HI>
160.sgm:<LB>BY GEORGE WALDO BROWNE<LB><HI REND="italics">Illustrated</HI>
160.sgm:<LB>BY FRANK HOLLAND AND OTHERS<LB>MANCHESTER, N.H.<LB>STANDARD BOOK COMPANY<LB>1917</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Copyrighted 1917</P>
160.sgm:<P>GEORGE W. BROWNE</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>DEDICATION.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>TO MY FIVE DAUGHTERS, MRS. LIZZIE JANE MARTIN, MRS. ELIZA BALL LESLIE, MRS. JULIA ANNA ROBINSON, MRS. MARY NEWTON ABBOTT, ALL OF HUDSON, N.H., AND MRS. ELLA FRANCES WALCH, OF NASHUA; AND TO THE SWEET MEMORY OF THAT LOVED DECEASED DAUGHTER, LATINA RAY WEBSTER, WHO QUIETLY PASSED TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE "GREAT DIVIDE," NOVEMBER 12, 1887, THIS NARRATIVE IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY THE</P>
160.sgm:<P>AUTHOR</P>
160.sgm:<P>KIMBALL WEBSTER</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>KIMBALL WEBSTER AT EIGHTY-FIVE.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<HEAD>HON. KIMBALL WEBSTER.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>It is with keen regret and sorrow that we are called upon to record the going out of the life of the author of the following pages, who has died since work was begun upon the book.  Mr. Webster was born in Pelham, N. H., November 2, 1828, the seventh child and third son of John and Hannah (Cummings) Webster.  His education was acquired in the schools of his native town and Hudson, N. H.  He grew up inured to the hard work upon a New England farm, besides working in granite quarries in his 19th and 20th years.  In April, 1849, a little over six months before he was twenty-one, with others scattered all over the country, he caught the gold fever.  Characteristic of his methodical ways, he kept a journal of his journey across the country and of his experiences as a miner in California and land surveyor in Oregon.  His experiences in the Land of Gold is told in his own vivid language in the following pages, and forms one of the most interesting narratives of the days of the gold-seekers of the Pacific Slope.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In 1855, after leaving Oregon, he was employed as a surveyor and land examiner by the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad Company in the western part of Missouri.  In 1858 he lived in Vinal Haven, Me., working in a granite quarry, but the following year took up his permanent residence in Hudson, N.H., where he lived the remainder of his long and useful life.  Following his leading occupation as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>He was a Justice of the Peace and had an extensive probate practice for nearly sixty years.  He was a Mason and active in the order of Patrons of Husbandry.  Mr. Webster retained his mental and physical powers, owing largely no doubt to a perfectly abstemious life, until within a short time of his decease, which occurred June 29, 1916, being 87 years, 7 months and 27 days of age.  Noted for his sterling qualities, and having a wide acquaintance, he was mourned by a large circle of friends.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Webster married, January 29, 1857, Abiah, daughter of Seth and Deborah (Gage) Butler Cutter, of Pelham, N. H., who survives him, as well as five of their ten children, who have married and lived in Hudson.</P>
160.sgm:<P>G. W. B.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Chapter<HSEP>Page<LB>Biographical Sketch of the Author<HSEP>9<LB>Pioneers of California<HSEP>15<LB>I.  Tidings of a New Eldorado<HSEP>17<LB>II.  Across the Continent<HSEP>23<LB>III.  The Overland Trail<HSEP>33<LB>IV.  The Humboldt River Trail<HSEP>83<LB>V.  The Land of Gold<HSEP>100<LB>VI.  Adventures by Flood<HSEP>122<LB>VII.  Life in the Mines<HSEP>137<LB>VIII.  The Illusion of "Gold Lake"<HSEP>156<LB>IX.  Mining on the Yuba River<HSEP>168<LB>X.  With Compass and Chain in Oregon<HSEP>182<LB>XI.  Homeward Bound<HSEP>227<LB>Story of the Discovery of Gold<HSEP>237</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P><HSEP>Page<LB>Portrait of Kimball Webster in '49<HSEP>Frontispiece<LB>Kimball Webster in His 85th year<HSEP>Opp.p. 9<LB>Placer Mining in '49.  By Frank Holland (from an old drawing)<LB>17<LB>Overland Trail.  By Frank Holland<HSEP>33<LB>Bay of San Francisco<HSEP>49<LB>The Golden Gate<HSEP>65<LB>San Francisco in 1849<HSEP>81<LB>Sutter's Mill<HSEP>97<LB>Mining Scene<HSEP>113<LB>Sacramento City in 1850<HSEP>129<LB>Postoffice in '49<HSEP>145<LB>Custom House on the Plaza<HSEP>161<LB>Vigilantes in '49<HSEP>177<LB>Miners Starting for Home<HSEP>193<LB>Great Seal of California<HSEP>209<LB>Warship Portsmouth.  By Frank Holland<HSEP>225</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<HEAD>ERRATA</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Line 16, insert George W. Houston, Joseph B. Gage, and Calvin S. Fifield<HSEP>20</P>
160.sgm:<P>9, read Moore, not moon<HSEP>39</P>
160.sgm:<P>9, read formed, not found<HSEP>45</P>
160.sgm:<P>19, erase of, and insert on, after mountains<HSEP>63</P>
160.sgm:<P>19, erase s at end of line, and insert r (Fort Bridger)<HSEP>65</P>
160.sgm:<P>10, read service berries, not summer berries<HSEP>74</P>
160.sgm:<P>Top, Chapter IV<HSEP>83</P>
160.sgm:<P>18, spell Winnemucca<HSEP>83</P>
160.sgm:<P>19, correct spelling of principal<HSEP>96</P>
160.sgm:<P>15, read miners, not winers<HSEP>101</P>
160.sgm:<P>18, read weighed, not wished<HSEP>102</P>
160.sgm:<P>17, After promised, insert "to release to"<HSEP>127</P>
160.sgm:<P>Top, also line 8, spell protractor<HSEP>151</P>
160.sgm:<P>27 and 28, read the Pelham camp<HSEP>166</P>
160.sgm:<P>2, after "The" erase following, and after morning insert before starting,<HSEP>167</P>
160.sgm:<P>3, erase leaving and insert learning<HSEP>177</P>
160.sgm:<P>8, at end of line add ship, "Columbia"<HSEP>189</P>
160.sgm:<P>Top, erase "the" between "to" and "commence"<HSEP>190</P>
160.sgm:<P>4 and 7, erase measured and insert meandered<HSEP>207</P>
160.sgm:<P>7, erase compassman and insert campman<HSEP>207</P>
160.sgm:<P>22 and 23, name of river, "Callapooya"<HSEP>210</P>
160.sgm:<P>16, erase "have" and insert "had"<HSEP>216</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<HEAD>THE PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The story of the pioneers of all times and all countries is one of great interest.  In it is embodied the combined elements of adventure and patriotism; the certain forerunner of the coming greatness of the land quickened by the inspiring efforts of the newcomers, usually men of sterling qualities and unswerving purpose.  The history of none of these adventurers is fraught with keener interest or more momentous results than that of the "Gold Seekers of '49."</P>
160.sgm:<P>The story of the men who dared and did so much in the early days of the discovery of GOLD on the Pacific Slope has never been fully told.  In the pages of this remarkable book we are given in plain straightforward language without any attempt at embellishment, by one who participated in them, the trying experiences that comprised the adventures and achievements of the hardy volunteers forming the little army of gold seekers who crossed the plains immediately following the cry that awoke the land from ocean to ocean as no other word could have done.</P>
160.sgm:<P>With no Jason to lead them, no seer to prophesy success, no wizard to avert danger, these brave Argonauts pushed resolutely forward across a continent, traversing thousands of miles where the Greek heroes traveled hundreds, passing over long, weary stretches of pathless plains under beetling crags, along frowning chasms and over alkaline deserts, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>In the midst of all of this, and much more that a glance at the scenes cannot even suggest, Mr. Webster bore a prominent part as pioneer, miner, prospector, and surveyor of the new country.  With over half a century intervening since that far-away day his vivid narrative comes to the few now living who participated in the scenes like a voice in a dream, while imparting to others the inner story of an era in our country's history that forms one of its most important chapters.</P>
160.sgm:<P>With nearly two-thirds of a century intervening since the days when the "gold fever" swept over the country, awakening steady-going New England as nothing else could have done, it is not strange we seldom meet now one of the veterans who answered the call and crossed a continent in a march as beset with dangers as many of a more warlike purpose, or rounded a world to pursue the phantom of fortune in a strange land.  Very few of the Gold Seekers of '49 are living to enjoy the halcyon days of a long and useful life.</P>
160.sgm:<P>G. W. B.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A Drawing by Frank Holland from a contemporary painting. <LB>PLACER MINING SCENE IN '49.</P>
160.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>TIDINGS OF A NEW ELDORADO</P>
160.sgm:<P>Late in the autumn of 1848 some reports began to be received from the new Territory of California, which had then lately been acquired by the United States from Mexico, that large deposits of gold had been discovered there, and that the small resident population had almost forsaken their former avocation and had repaired to the rich mines where they were reaping a golden harvest, in many instances making large fortunes in a brief period.</P>
160.sgm:<P>These reports were at first almost entirely discredited by the people of the United States.  Many believed it to be some cunning device of interested persons to decoy thither immigrants and thereby stimulate the growth of that sparsely populated territory.</P>
160.sgm:<P>During the early part of the winter of 1848-49 these reports were in a great measure corroborated and confirmed by official statements from government officers, who were stationed on the Pacific coast; and as early as January, 1849, vessels were fitting up in Boston, New York and other Atlantic ports, in a manner suited to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The Pacific Mail Co. had at the time a line of steamers plying between New York and San Francisco, by the way of the Isthmus of Panama.  These steamers made but one trip each way a month.</P>
160.sgm:<P>As soon as information of a reliable character was received in the Atlantic states regarding the mineral wealth of California, a large portion of the population became more or less excited, and many of an adventurous nature were at once determined to leave their homes and seek their fortunes on the western slope of the snowy mountains.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The query then arose, which was the cheapest, best and most expeditious route to reach San Francisco?</P>
160.sgm:<P>The long and tedious voyage of five or six months "around Cape Horn," though perhaps the cheapest, was viewed by many as being almost beyond endurance.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The route by the Isthmus of Panama was attended by difficulties and dangers in crossing the Isthmus from Chagres to Panama, a distance of about fifty miles.  This journey was performed in boats up the Chagres river, and thence by mules to Panama.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The journey by the latter route from New York to San Francisco had usually been performed in about thirty days and had usually been considered the better route.</P>
160.sgm:<P>So great was the rush to California by the way of the Isthmus in a short time, or as early as January, the tickets by that route were largely sold in advance for several trips, and thousands of passengers who had taken passage to Chagres were unable to get any conveyance <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>This congested state of affairs rendered the Mail route extremely objectionable.  While thousands were waiting for a passage at Panama, a large percentage of those waiting passengers were sick with the Panama fever or other tropical diseases, and many died from such diseases.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Numerous companies were organized during the winter with the intention of pursuing the land route across the extensive western plains and the Rocky Mountains, which was thought could be accomplished in from sixty to eighty days.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It will be remembered that all the country between the Missouri river and the Sacramento valley, which was called "The Great American Desert," was almost an unbroken wilderness.  No white people were then allowed to settle in that vast territory.</P>
160.sgm:<P>As soon as I had sufficient reasons for believing California to be what it had been represented to be as a gold bearing country, I was determined to go myself; and after taking a prospective view of the difficulties and dangers incident to a protracted detention on the Isthmus and the tediousness of a long, monotonous journey via Cape Horn, I finally concluded to cross the country by land; believing it would be an interesting and romantic journey and one not entirely free from difficulties and hardships.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Granite State and California Mining and Trading Company was organized in Boston in March, 1849, as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The above company numbered twenty-nine members, principally hale, hearty, strong men, who were then about to leave their homes and friends to seek their fortunes in the newly discovered gold mines of California.  The names of these twenty-nine men were as follows:</P>
160.sgm:<P>Charles Hodgdon, Grovensor Allen, Dr. A. Haynes, John Lyon, Lafayette Allen, Samuel W. Gage, Joseph D. Gage, Thomas J. True, Alfred Williams, Cuthbert C. Barkley, Kimball Webster, Erastus Woodbury, James M. Butler, Alden B. Nutting, Benjamin Ellenwood, James W. Stewart, Jonathan Haynes, Charles W. Childs, Robert Thom, Jacob Morris, Austin W. Pinney, J. P. Hoyt, George Carlton, J. P. Lewis, Dr. Amos Batchelder and Edward Moore.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Ten of these men were from the town of Pelham, N. H., as follows:  Capt. Joseph B. Gage, Samuel W. Gage, Joseph D. Gage, Dr. Amos Batchelder, George Carlton, James M. Butler, Austin W. Pinney, Robert Thom, Benjamin Ellenwood and Jacob Morris.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The majority of them were natives of Pelham and had always resided there as neighbors.  Several of the others were from Boston, and a few from other towns of New Hampshire and Massachusetts.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Each member of the company was required to pay into the treasury the sum of three hundred dollars which, it was estimated, would be sufficient to furnish the necessary outfit and cover all traveling expenses.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It was the boast of the officers and many of the members that the Granite State Company would carry with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The officers at the time of starting were:  George W. Houston, President; Joseph B. Gage, Vice President; Edward Moore, Secretary; Calvin S. Fifield, Treasurer; besides a Board of Directors.  Another company similar to our own had been organized in Boston and numbered about forty members and was called the Mount Washington Company.  These two companies mutually agreed to travel in company until they should reach California.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The president of the last mentioned company, Captain Thing, having several years previous traveled across the country from Independence, Missouri, to Fort Hall and Oregon, in company with some of the men of the American Fur Company, agreed to pilot the Granite State Company through to California for five dollars each.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some two or three weeks previous to the time of the starting of the two companies, Captain Thing and Lafayette F. Allen of Boston were selected to go to Independence, Mo., in advance of the two companies, with sufficient funds to purchase mules and cattle in numbers adequate to supply the needs of the two companies in their embarkation on the broad plains at such time as they should arrive at the above mentioned place.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The necessary arrangements having all been matured <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>ACROSS THE CONTINENT.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, APRIL 17, 1849.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We left Boston this morning at about 8 o'clock for Albany, by way of the Western Railroad.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After shaking hands and bidding such of our friends as had gathered at the station a good-bye, we seated ourselves in the cars, and as they began to move, the spectators that had gathered in and around the station sent up three most hearty cheers for the California adventurers; and they were very readily and heartily returned by us, while we were started on our way with railroad speed toward the land of gold.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We had a special car into which no intruder was allowed to trespass, and I believe a more jolly company of men has seldom been found.  We arrived at Springfield, Mass., at about noon where we were fortunate in procuring a fine dinner, to which all did ample justice.  After we had eaten we were soon on our way again.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We arrived at Greenbush, N. Y., before night, where we had some little trouble with the baggage master about procuring our trunks, which had been checked at Boston, as we had failed to procure the corresponding checks.  However, after some little dispute he gave them up and we took the ferry boat for Albany on the opposite side of the Hudson.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>It will be remembered that at that time no railroad bridge spanned the Hudson River.  Everything had to be ferried over.  At Albany we took our quarters at the Mansion House.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I will here mention that on the road today we fell in with George W. Houston, our president, who had started in advance of the company for the purpose, as it was said, of evading some officers who were in pursuit of him for the object of detaining him until such time as he should be able to liquidate some obligations.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, APRIL 18.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We left Albany at 12:30 P.M. in an immigrant train for Buffalo.  At Schenectady, about twenty miles from Albany, we were detained two or three hours, waiting for the passenger train to pass us.  The fare by the immigrant train was considerably less but we soon discovered that it was a slow and tedious experience of travel, it being very slow.  It was nearly night when we left Schenectady and proceeded slowly on our way.  The night was cold and stormy--disagreeable in the extreme.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some five or six inches of snow fell during the night, and there being no fires in the cars, or no place to lie down and nothing to eat, it was a very long, tedious night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The night passed slowly away, and we arrived safely at Rochester at about 10 o'clock on the 19th; when, after refreshing ourselves with a good dinner, we crossed the Genesee River and took a view of the falls bearing the same name.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Near the middle of the channel is a high projecting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Rochester has very excellent water power, and can boast of some of the best flouring mills in the world.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Left Rochester at one o'clock, by the express train, for Buffalo, at which place we arrived at five o'clock P.M., and put up at Bennett's Temperance Hotel, where we found a very fine hotel and good accommodations.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, APRIL 20.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>There being no steamers going west from Buffalo today, we were compelled to await another day for a passage.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A railroad had been built and opened from Buffalo to Niagara Falls, a distance of twenty-two miles.  The larger number of the company took this trip and went to the celebrated Falls, as a pleasant manner of passing the few hours that we were compelled to wait.  We left Buffalo at two o'clock and rode twenty-two miles over a very rough and uneven railroad, and arrived at the Falls at about three o'clock.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On my arrival at the cataract, I descended the lofty flight of stone steps numbering 290--crossed the river in a yawl boat to the Canada side--a short distance below the Falls; went under the sheet of water at Table Rock, where I found a very damp atmosphere caused by the rising spray--so very damp that I soon became completely saturated.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I then went to the Suspension Bridge about two miles below the Falls, and there recrossed the river.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This bridge had been built the year previous, and was largely an experiment.  It was a foot bridge suspended by wire cables and stood 230 feet above the water.  It was about eight feet wide.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It seems useless for me to attempt a description of Niagara Falls.  To be fully appreciated it must be seen.  It is certainly one of Nature's wonderful curiosities.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, APRIL 21.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We left Buffalo at 11 o'clock, A.M., in the elegant, first-class steamer Canada, for Detroit, Michigan, with pleasant weather and a smooth lake.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The weather continued fine until about five o'clock, when it commenced raining, and the lake became somewhat rough.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, APRIL 22.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The weather today has been very fine.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At 7 o'clock we landed at Amherstbury, Canada, near the mouth of the Detroit River; and at nine, landed at the wharf at Detroit.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Detroit is situated on the west bank of the river bearing the same name, about twenty miles above Lake Erie.  It rises gradually from the river and is a very pleasantly situated city.  In the forenoon I attended the Congregational Church, where we heard an eloquent sermon by an able divine.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In the afternoon I visited Windsor, Canada, situated on the east side of Detroit River.  This place contains <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>In the evening a few of the Pelham boys visited Gen. Lewis W. Cass at his elegant residence.  We found Mr. Cass at home, to whom we introduced ourselves.  He was a native of New Hampshire, and formerly had his home there.  He received us with the greatest cordiality and respect, wishing us the greatest success in our enterprise, and expressing a desire to accompany us himself.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We remain aboard the Canada tonight.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, APRIL 23.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We left Detroit at 7:30 this morning by the Michigan Central Railroad for New Buffalo, a small village on the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, near the line between the states of Michigan and Indiana.  The country bordering on this road is principally very heavily timbered with oak, elm, hickory, ash, sycamore and other species.  The houses are mostly small "log cabins."</P>
160.sgm:<P>The soil is fertile but somewhat low and moist, and is said to be well adapted to the propagation of the "shakes."</P>
160.sgm:<P>We arrived at New Buffalo at 7:30 in the evening, and we intended to have taken the steamer for Chicago immediately, but the harbor being so much exposed and the lake so very rough, it was impossible for the boat to make a landing at the wharf with safety.  Consequently, we were compelled to await such time as the waters should become more calm.  At that time the railroad had not been constructed around the south side of Lake Michigan into Chicago.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This was a newly constructed place and but a small <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The night seemed long, cold and disagreeable, but at length it passed away.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, APRIL 24.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The weather this morning was very cold and windy.  The steamer from Chicago landed at the wharf at about 9 o'clock this morning, but, owing to the rough state of the lake, she had not lain at the wharf over two or three minutes before she parted her large hawser, and immediately left for Chicago, without her passengers.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At about ten o'clock in the evening, the lake having become comparatively smooth, the steamer Detroit came in.  We soon after got aboard and were on our way for Chicago.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This was an old vessel and had a very ungentlemanly list of officers.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It was not until after a long parley with the steward and captain, that we were successful in obtaining any refreshments.  Immediately after supper, I lay down and soon fell asleep, and, on awaking the next morning, I found our boat moored at the wharf in Chicago.  The past two days had been our first really bitter experience.  Much of the same as bad or worse was in store for us.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, APRIL 25.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Chicago at that time was a comparatively small city of about 25,000 inhabitants.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Michigan and Illinois Canal from Lake Michigan at Chicago to the Illinois River at La Salle, which had been under construction for twelve years or more, had been finished the year previous, and was open for traffic.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We left Chicago at ten o'clock in the morning on a packet by the above mentioned canal for La Salle, a point situated at the head of navigation on the Illinois River.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The weather was fine and we found this to be a delightful mode of travel, but not very expeditious.  The packet was drawn by mules or horses traveling on the tow-path.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The passengers had a good view of the broad Illinois prairies, as they passed leisurely through the country.  A large percentage of those prairies were then unbroken and were the native home of the prairie hen.  From Chicago westward the country is so nearly level that there are no locks in the canal for twenty-five miles.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At night we had the pleasure of seeing a burning prairie for the first time.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, APRIL 26.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Owing to a leakage in the canal the packet ran aground about two o'clock this morning, where we were detained four hours--until six.  We arrived at La Salle about two o'clock in the afternoon.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The canal passes along down a valley one mile or more broad, with bluffs on each side.  This valley has the appearance of having been, at some remote period of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We left La Salle at 9 o'clock in the evening by the steamer Princeton for St. Louis, by way of the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, APRIL 27.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The weather is fine today.  The Illinois River is a stream about one-half mile wide, with low, timbered bottom lands on each side, which at this time are considerably inundated, the river being quite high.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The scenery along the river presents a very dreary appearance at this time.  It is neither beautiful nor grand.  We saw a few wild turkeys along near the shore, which to us was something new.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, APRIL 28.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>At ten o'clock we entered the Mississippi River, and at eleven, passed the junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The river at this point is nearly two miles in width, and has a current of about four miles an hour.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The upper Mississippi is a deep, clear stream, while the Missouri has many shoals and sand bars, and whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>At one o'clock we arrived at St. Louis.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This flourishing city is situated on the west bank of the Mississippi, and, owing to its commanding position, will probably ever maintain a leading position among the great cities of the West.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The streets, at this time, are quite muddy and filthy, but they are of good width.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The population appears to be made up--as seems to us New Englanders--of a heterogeneous collection of almost every nation and tongue.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Tonight we engage passage to Independence, Missouri, and go aboard the steamer Bay State, which is to leave here tomorrow morning for St. Joseph, Mo.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, APRIL 29.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We left St. Louis at ten o'clock and proceeded up the river.  At twelve we entered the turbid waters of the Missouri.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Bay State is a good vessel, but is very much crowded with Californians.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On her last voyage up the river she is said to have lost quite a large number of her passengers by cholera, which at present is quite prevalent on the western rivers.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At 4 o'clock we pass the beautiful city of St. Charles, situated on the north bank of the river.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The bottom lands along the river are low and subject to overflow; consequently the settlements in sight of the river are not very numerous, a few log cabins beeing seen on the banks.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The channel of the river is very much obstructed by snags and sand bars and is constantly changing, which renders the navigation of the Missouri extremely difficult and dangerous.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, APRIL 30.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We made about ninety miles during the day yesterday, but moved slowly during the night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Early this morning we passed the village of Hermon, noted for its extensive wine distilleries.  A little later we passed Portland, situated on the north side of the river.  At three we touched at Jefferson City, situated on the right bank of the Missouri River, 160 miles from St. Louis.  This is the capital of Missouri, and is very pleasantly located on a high bank.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, MAY 1.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>At 12 o'clock we passed Glasgow; at 5, Brunswick; and at 7, Miami, all of which are apparently pleasant and thriving little villages.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The banks of the river are much higher than they are lower down, and consequently, we see more settlements.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, MAY 2.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We saw a few small villages on the banks of the river.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At six o'clock P. M. we passed Lexington City, some forty or fifty miles below Independence, our destination.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, MAY 3.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>At two o'clock this morning we arrived at Independence Landing, four miles from Independence.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>From a Painting by Frank Holland.<LB>THE OVERLAND TRAIL TO CALIFORNIA.<LB>"Westward the course of Empire takes its way."</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>THE OVERLAND TRAIL.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This is the place where we are to be initiated into the beauties of camp life; and to fit out and start with our mule trains for California.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At 4 P.M. we had our tents pitched and, as we believed, were perfectly well prepared for the first night in camp, and partaking of a little supper--the first of our own cooking--we lay down, all seeming anxious to try our new manner of living.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We rested very comfortably for a time, but at length it began to rain quite rapidly, and we felt much pleased to find our tents so well adapted to shed water and protect us from a heavy shower.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Our joy, however, was soon after turned to disgust and chagrin when we felt the water between us and the ground, and on rising, we found our under blankets thoroughly drenched with water.  Many of us were thoroughly wet to the skin.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This first mishap of the kind to happen must be attributed to our own innocent ignorance, as our tents were set on a slight declivity, and the necessity of trenching them on the upper sides to turn the water away, did not occur to us.  However, we learned this part of camp life in such a manner as to never be forgotten.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It was learned in the same manner as we shall hereafter, probably, learn many other new things before our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The company held the monthly meeting today for the election of officers, for the month ensuing, at which Joseph B. Gage was elected president, his term of office to extend to June first.  He seemed to feel very much pleased with his new position.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The rain descended in torrents today.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In the afternoon, nine of us took our saddles, a tent and some provisions and went about three miles in a southerly direction, where a large number of our mules were herded, for the purpose of trying our hand at breaking them.</P>
160.sgm:<P>These mules had been purchased by the agents of the two companies and were being kept by Mr. Sloan.  We set our tent at the place of herding and made an ineffiectual effort to kindle a fire; and after several like attempts, we were compelled to give it up and do without a fire, and put up with some raw ham and hard bread for our supper; after which we retired for a second night's lodging in the tent.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, MAY 5.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The rain ceased last night, and it was fair and pleasant this morning.  Five of our mules had broken out of their enclosure and gone astray.  Some two or three of our party went in search of them, but returned tonight without success.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We tried our skill today at breaking mules, but having <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>They were young mules which had never been halter-broken, and were almost as wild as the deer on the prairie.  A wild, unbroken mule is the most desperate animal that I have ever seen.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I will pass over the time intervening between now and May 26, or about three weeks, with the mention of a few incidents that occurred during our stay at Independence, and giving a slight description of the country surrounding this place.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This being one of the principal fitting-out places for California, it was crowded with immigrants from all parts of the United States.  Hundreds of ox-teams and mule-teams were leaving here daily for California, besides many pack-trains, coaches and almost every kind of team or vehicle.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Asiatic cholera was raging among the immigrants to a large extent.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Many were daily falling victims to this dreaded scourge, while many others were becoming disheartened and were turning back to their homes.  Everything here was bustle and wild confusion.  Much of the weather was rainy and disagreeable, with occasionally one of the most terrific thunder showers that I ever witnessed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We tried in vain to break our mules by putting large packs of sand on their backs and leading them about, but it availed very little, as the second trial was as bad as the first; and they were nearly as wild and vicious when we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Several of our company were sick with the cholera, while a number of the Mount Washington company died with the same dread disease.  These adverse circumstances detained us somewhat longer than we wished, and much longer than it was for our interest to remain; but as it seemed unavoidable, we were compelled to content ourselves as best we could.  But we were looking for better days.  Joseph B. Gage continuel to fill the office of president.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The surrounding country is very beautiful with a rich, productive soil, much of it being a high, rolling prairie.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Timber is somewhat scarce, but it is of a superior quality.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There are some small plantations, principally cultivated by colored people, who in almost all cases appear to be well satisfied with their condition in life.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On May 26th, we had moved out about twenty miles from Independence and were prepared for a start.  Independence is but a short distant from where Kansas City now stands.  (Distance to here, 20 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, MAY 26.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We commenced packing our mules early in the morning, but owing to their wild and unbroken state, and being unacquainted with packing, were not prepared to start until five o'clock in the evening, when we left our old camp-ground and travelled three miles and again camped.  (Distance, 3 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>This appeared like a very tedious way to get to California, a distance of more than 2,000 miles.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, MAY 27.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We commenced packing again this morning and were prepared to start at about noon.  This is quite an improvement in point of time over yesterday.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It took as many men to pack a mule as could stand around it, and we were obliged to choke many of them, before we could get the saddle upon their backs.</P>
160.sgm:<P>They would kick, bite and strike with their fore feet, making it very dangerous to go about them.  Several of our company were quite badly disabled by working with them, so that they were unable to assist in packing.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We started about noon and traveled about eight miles, over a high, rolling prairie, and camped.  Today we crossed the western boundary of Missouri and entered the Indian Territory.  (Distance, 8 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, MAY 28.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>This morning we started at 9 o'clock and traveled eighteen miles over a rolling prairie country, and camped near a small Indian village.  Very little timber of any kind is found in this section, but we find plenty of grass and water.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The soil is deep and of first-rate quality; and at no distant day this must become one of the richest and most productive agricultural sections of the country.  (Distance, 18 miles.)</P>
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160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, MAY 29.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Leave camp at 10 o'clock and travel twelve miles across a prairie and camp in a very pleasant place, where we find plenty of good grass and water, and also a scanty supply of wood.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We saw about a dozen wild horses; but it was impossible to approach near them.  Very little game is seen near the road.  (Distance, 12 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, MAY 30.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Owing to some of our horses and mules straying away last night and taking the road toward Missouri, we remained encamped today.  The horses, mules and cattle belonging to the two companies number more than three hundred.  It was necessary to guard them nights, and each member was obliged to take his turn on guard, regularly, a part of the night, once in two or three nights.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The cattle that we were driving were designed to furnish us with our principal dependence for provisions during our long journey.  They were mostly young cattle and not very large.  When we were in need of some provisions we would have one killed and dressed, and the meat was divided among the different messes.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We were fortunate enough to recover our mules and horses before night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I went across about three miles to an Indian village.  They have very comfortable log cabins, and were at work turning up the prairie with the plow; and apparently some of them have very good farms, and appear to be partially civilized, and seem to be in a fair way to give <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, MAY 31.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The weather is fair and pleasant.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Edward Moon, Esq., secretary of our company, being very much out of health, turned back and left the company for Boston.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This is the second one of our company who has given up going to California and returned to his home.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Many are turning back with their teams, having become discouraged in anticipation of the long and tedious journey before them; large numbers are dying daily of cholera and other fatal diseases.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Leave camp at one o'clock and travel about four miles, where we cross a small river running south; and later, we cross a low, wet, swampy prairie about one and one-half miles in width, after which we travel six miles and camp.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Land today principally prairie, with some cottonwood timber along the streams.  Soil excellent.  (Distance traveled, 12 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, JUNE 1.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>A beautiful morning.  We leave camp at 9 o'clock this morning and travel about twenty miles, over a rolling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We have lost four or five of our cattle, they having left the herd and strayed away.  The mules are now becoming very tame and docile, but many of them have very sore backs.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some of our mules are packed with more than two hundred pounds, which is much too heavy for so young animals.  (Distance today, 20 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, JUNE 2.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We delayed starting until 2 o'clock, for the reason that two of the Mount Washington men that are traveling with us were taken with the cholera during last night.  We leave them with Dr. A. Haynes with assistants and travel twelve miles and camp on the north bend of a small stream, about fifteen miles from the Kansas River.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One of the cholera patients died at 5 o'clock this evening.  The other seems some better and appears to be in a fair way to recover.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, JUNE 3.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Fair and warm.  Thermometer 86 degrees in the shade.  The last of the two cholera patients died this morning at 9 o'clock.  They both died at the camp where we left them, twelve miles east.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We remain here today where we find plenty of good wood, water and grass.  The men of both companies are now in good health.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The two men that died of the cholera were large, heavy, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, JUNE 4.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Leave camp at 10 o'clock for the Kansas River.  We cross two or three small streams and pass some Indian settlements, and arrive at the Kaw River ferry in season to cross our horses and mules and a part of our baggage before night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The ferry-boat is made from hewn planks framed together, bearing a very strong resemblance to a raft.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The river is about 650 feet in width, with a rapid and muddy current.  This is one of the three or four streams that contribute to render the waters of the Missouri so very muddy.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On the right bank of the river is situated a small Indian village, known as Uniontown, which, together with the Indian population, contains a few white men who have taken Indian women for their wives.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Two or three of the Mount Washington company are seriously attacked with cholera, but they recovered during the night.  (Distance, 15 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, JUNE 5.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>It was quite late in the afternoon before we had succeeded in getting all of our mules, horses, cattle and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The Pottawatomie tribe of Indians that inhabit this section of the country is quite numerous and is in a partial state of civilization.  They are cultivating the soil to considerable extent and raise wheat, corn and potatoes in moderate quantities.  We purchased of them some flour and two or three Indian ponies.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One or two of our company are talking some of leaving our company and joining some other party, but they concluded to continue with us.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, JUNE 6.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We leave camp at 12 o'clock and travel 18 miles.  We passed a Catholic mission erected for the purpose of Christianizing the Indian tribes and converting them to the Catholic religion.  Indian settlements are quite numerous here.  Rattlesnakes are seen in large numbers.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We camped in the evening, after which a very violent shower came up.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The wind blew so violently that all of our tents were leveled to the earth over our heads, which was not very agreeable.  However, we are compelled to make the best of all such misfortunes, and are becoming more accustimed to the endurance of hardships than at first.  (Distance, 18 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, JUNE 7.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We start at 9 o'clock this morning and after traveling four miles, cross the Little Vermillion River.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We halt for dinner at 10 o'clock, and camp at 6 o'clock.  The country through which we are traveling is very beautiful, it being a high, rolling prairie covered with a fine growth of grass, and watered by numerous cool springs of good water, with some small streams.  (Distance, 16 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, JUNE 8.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Strike camp at 8 o'clock, travel until noon, when we unpack our mules and remain until 2 o'clock.  Camp at 6 in the evening.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Teh road is dry and hard and almost as good as a turnpike.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The ox-teams make as good time as our mule train.  (Distance traveled, 20 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, JUNE 9.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Leave camp at 8:30, and soon after cross the Big Vermillion River, which is a stream of considerable size, with a very rapid current.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Halt for dinner at noon and camp at night without wood.  The water is considerably impregnated with alkali, so very strong that it feels slippery.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There is said to be much of this kind of water on the plains.  It is destructive to health and even life, both to man and animals.  (Distance, 20 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, JUNE 10.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Break camp before breakfast and travel twelve miles, where we find an abundance of wood and good water.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Some returning Californians dined with us today, having traveled about 150 miles beyond this point, when they became discouraged and began to retrace their footsteps.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The prospects of reaching California certainly look somewhat discouraging at the present time.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The great bulk of the immigration, which is very large, is in advance of us.  That very much dreaded scourge, the Asiatic cholera, is making such sad havoc among the Californians that almost every camp-ground is converted into a burial-ground, and at many places twelve or fifteen graves may be seen in a row.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Almost every traveler that we meet, who has ever been west of the Rocky Mountains, gives it as his opinion that there is not grass enough in that region of country to sustain one-half of the stock that is now on the California trail; and they are of the opinion that the present immigration cannot reach California this season.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Much trouble is also anticipated by many from some of the western tribes of Indians, who are said to be hostile to the whites.  The Mormons who settled near the California trail, in the Great Lake valley, in 1847, are also much feared by a large number of those from Missouri.</P>
160.sgm:<P>All these circumstances and conditions combined are of sufficient weight to frighten many and cause them to banish the bright, golden visions which allured them from their homes, with the bright anticipations of soon becoming wealthy.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The principal anxiety that seems to fill the minds of such at the present time is to reach, as soon as possible, their former homes; and consequently, while the great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>To meet so many who have been farther westward on the trail, and who have turned backward, and are now seeking their former homes, has its influence upon a large number that would otherwise proceed and causes them to also reverse their course.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I have, myself, heard all these discouragements many times rehearsed, and weighed the matter, and have found conclusions as follows:</P>
160.sgm:<P>I started for California anticipating that we should meet many hardships, privations and dangers on our long journey, and, as yet, we have experienced nothing of a nature any more severe than we had reason to expect; and as for what we may find ahead of us we know but little of.  I am fully determined to proceed as far in the direction of California as it is possible for me to go, and not to return until I have seen the place I set out to reach.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It seems to be a very curious fact that the immigrants from the state of Missouri--which by the way, were more numerous than from any other one state--seem to suffer more from the cholera than almost all the other immigration combined.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I know of no good reason why this should be so.  They have had their homes on the frontier and, consequently, have been subjected to more exposure and hardships than any other class now on the California trail.  (Distance traveled, 12 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, JUNE 11.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The first experience worthy of note this morning was a very heavy shower.  This lasted two hours and was accompanied with a most terrific gale, which very soon levelled every tent in our camp, leaving us nothing under which we could shelter ourselves.  Consequently, we were all most thoroughly drenched.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Start in the afternoon and travel fifteen miles over a smooth prairie, and camp.  (Distance, 15 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, JUNE 12.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather very fine.  Leave camp at 9 o'clock, and travel eight miles and camp until three, when we again move on nine miles farther, and camp for the night.  (Distance traveled, 17 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, JUNE 13.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>A shower with a heavy wind occurred at about midnight.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Our tents withstood the gale, but the rain was driven through in such large quantities as to drench us thoroughly.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At about 2 o'clock another shower occurred with a wind much stronger and more severe than the first, which levelled all our tents to the ground, notwithstanding the exertions of us all to keep them standing; and we were again left without a shelter, and compelled to pass the balance of the night as best we could--some standing in the open air with their backs to the storm, while others <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>These showers are accompanied with very violent electrical displays and very heavy thunder.  They are the most violent and terrifying of anything of the kind I have ever witnessed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>About daylight we managed to get fires started, and before noon dried ourselves and our camp equipage almost completely.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We started at noon and traveled eighteen miles.  The land through which we passed is apparently very fertile, but is almost destitute of timber of any kind.  Camp on a small stream of clear, pure water.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, JUNE 14.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Leave camp at seven in the morning and travel until eleven o'clock.  We take dinner on the bank of the Big Blue River--a fork of the Kansas.  We start again at two o'clock and camp at six on the Big Blue.  (Distance, 25 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, JUNE 15.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather fair and cool.  Travel up the Blue River to-day.  This is a most beautiful stream; has a rich and fertile soil, with considerable good timber.  (Distance, 25 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, JUNE 16.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Decamp at eight o'clock and travel ten miles to the point where the trail leaves the Blue River.  We dine here.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a142-005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The road from this place to the Platte River is through prairie country destitute of wood.  We travel fifteen miles in the afternoon and camp on the prarie, without wood, and with quite poor water.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, JUNE 17.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Travel twelve miles in the forenoon to the Platte, or Nebraska River.  In the afternoon we go up the river eight miles and camp near Fort Kearney, at the head of Grand Island.  This island is 52 miles in length and appears to be well timbered.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Platte is a large river, being from one to two miles wide, and has a very rapid current.  Its waters are so very muddy that after a bucketful has settled, an inch of mud, or sediment will appear at the bottom.  It has a bed of sand which is constantly in motion.  (Distance traveled, 20 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, JUNE 18.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We remain here today.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The weather is fair and warm.  Thermometer 86 degrees in the shade.  Grass is not very abundant.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We repair our pack-saddles and other equipage which has become considerably out of repair.  The backs and shoulders of many of our mules have become very sore and in a serious condition, many of them having lost large patches of skin, and the prospect, at present, seems to be that few of them will survive to reach California the present season.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We have made an inspection of our packs today in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We have, for one thing, a patent "filter," the weight of which is about 30 pounds, which has been of no use to us, and the prospect now is that it will never be of any benefit whatever.  We have some iron spades that probably will be of no benefit to any one.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We have also some large, heavy picks which we have brought all the way from Boston, and also shovels.  These may be useful in the mines, but it does not seem to be feasible to pack them 2000 miles on the sore backs of mules.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There are, however, such a large number in the company that are so bitterly opposed to leaving any such article that they will defeat any such measure proposed; and even call all such foolish who believe it would be wise to lighten the loads of our poor mules in such a manner.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, JUNE 19.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather fair and very windy.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Remain here today.  I visit Fort Kearney, which is about one and one-half miles distant from our camp.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The fort and other buildings are constructed of adobe, or sun-burned bricks, with one exception.  The fort was established about two years since.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A large number of immigrants are encamped about the fort, at this time, and also a company of United States cavalry.  It is said at Fort Kearney that the wagons passed here already this season, en route for California, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, JUNE 20.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We packed in the afternoon and after traveling four miles, we encountered a very fierce shower, which thoroughly drenched every one of us.  A little later another shower was encountered, which was much more severe than the first, and which was accompanied with some hail and a terrific wind.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Camp at the first good camping place after the showers.  Blankets and all clothes thoroughly wet and no opportunity for drying them.  It is certainly uncomfortable lodgings.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Since leaving Independence, until the last two or three days, my health has not been very good.  (Distance, 10 miles.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, JUNE 21.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Travel nine miles in the forenoon and six in the afternoon.  Our course is up the Platte River, the valley of which is nearly level and is several miles wide on either side.  We camp tonight where there is no wood on the mainland, and we waded a branch of the river about twenty rods to an island to procure it.  The water is not deep, but the current is quite rapid.  There are numerous islands in the river.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, JUNE 22.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Travel 12 miles in the forenoon, halt two hours and dine.  Travel eight miles in the afternoon and camp.  All in good health.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, JUNE 23.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Travel up the River Platte today 20 miles, and camp without wood, but find plenty of "Buffalo chips," which, if dry, are a very good substitute for fuel.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, JUNE 24.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather fair and warm.  Thermometer stands at 95 degrees, at noon, in the shade.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I traveled south, back from the river, about four miles to the bluffs, today.  Owing to the very clear, transparent atmosphere, no one who was not acquainted with it could believe the distance was more than one mile at most.  I did not believe it when I left camp, after having been told by those who had traveled the distance and back.</P>
160.sgm:<P>These bluffs are a succession of sand hills, rising abruptly from the level plain, along the Platte on both sides, and extend back from the river a long distance.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Antelopes are very plentiful, but are not easily killed on the level prairie.  There is little timber or wood here.  The soil is sandy, but produces a very good grass.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, JUNE 25.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Broke camp at 5 o'clock in the morning and traveled eight miles, where we halted until two in the afternoon.  Travel three and one-half hours in the afternoon and camp on the bank of the river, where we found a good supply of wood.  Mosquitoes are more plentiful here than I have ever seen before.  I would judge there are more than forty bushels of these pests to the acre, and they are of a very large breed.  (Distance, 20 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, JUNE 26.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started at 5 o'clock this morning.  We had traveled about ten miles, when the startling cry of "Buffalo ahead" was heard from those in advance.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This was the first buffalo herd seen by our company, and every one was anxious to gratify his curiosity by a sight of a real live American bison.  On looking ahead about two miles, and not far from the immigrant trail, a herd of about one hundred buffaloes could be seen, quietly grazing.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A number of the company that could be spared from the train, immediately left the train and gave chase to the herd.  The buffaloes on seeing their approach, immediately started toward the sand hills, and soon disappeared from sight.  The men who were in pursuit followed them, and we soon after camped on the bank of the River Platte.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Soon after we had unpacked the mules, we saw four large buffaloes emerging from the brush, not more than 100 rods distant from our camp.  Our horses were all unsaddled, and before we could catch and saddle them, the large animals were a long distance from us.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One of our men, Mr. Hodgdon, soon came in and stated that he had shot and killed a buffalo, about four miles distant from our camp, in the sand hills.  After dinner, a party of four or five with two extra mules, went out to dress the slaughtered bison, and to bring the meat into our camp; and the balance of the company packed up the camp and started.  During the afternoon, we killed a buffalo calf, four or five weeks old.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We ate buffalo meat for supper, cooked with "Buffalo chips."  The meat is very coarse grained and of a dark color, and is very good, but in my estimation, is much inferior to good beefsteak.  They are said not to be so good at this season of the year as they will be later, when they will be more fleshy.  (Distance, 18 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, JUNE 27.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started at 8 o'clock and traveled four miles in the forenoon.  In the afternoon we go up the river to the South Platte.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I went up the river about three miles for some wood.  Plenty of buffalo.  (Distance, 17 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, JUNE 28.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Fair weather.  Packed in the morning and prepared to ford the south fork of the Platte River.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The stream is about three-fourths of a mile in width and from one foot to three feet deep.  The current is rapid and water very muddy.  From its appearance, any one might suppose the stream was 20 feet deep.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I crossed and recrossed it on horseback three times.  We had no very bad luck in crossing.  Some of our packs became wet and we unpacked on the west side of the stream and dried them.  We started at one o'clock and traveled 12 miles in the afternoon and camped without wood, but found plenty of good, dry "Buffalo chips."  (Distance, 13 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, JUNE 29.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Start at 6.30 o'clock and finding neither wood nor water, we traveled seven hours, when we halt and make a search for water, and find a spring about one mile from camp.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This was good fortune.  (Distance, 20 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, JUNE 30.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather warm and dry.  Travel ten miles in the forenoon and eight in the afternoon.  One of our company killed a buffalo this afternoon, and after we had camped, Joseph B. Gage, with two or three others, with mules, went back to bring in the meat; but before they had arrived at the place where it was slain, they saw a band of Indians riding toward them, and they became frightened and returned to camp with all possible speed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The next morning, a party of Sioux Indians came into our camp, and desired the doctor should give them some medicine, stating that their camp was on the opposite side of the Platte, and that the smallpox was raging among them.</P>
160.sgm:<P>They were perfectly friendly and said they had no intention of frightening our men away from the buffalo meat, but that they wished to talk with them and get some medicine; and also stated that they made all the friendly signs that they could think of to have them stop.  The doctor supplied them with medicine and they left our camp.  (Distance, 18 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, JULY 1.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We did not move camp today.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The land is not so level here as it is on the Lower Platte.  Soil sandy; wood scarce; weather fair and dry.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, JULY 2.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started in the morning and soon passed through Ash Hollow, so-called.  It derives its name from large quantities of red ash timber found here.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We dine at the foot of Castle Bluffs.  These bluffs of sandstone rise abruptly several hundred feet, and having been exposed to the weather for many thousand years, have been transformed into shapes very much resembling ancient castles, hence the name.  Camp on the Platte.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The road today has been very sandy.  (Distance, 23 miles.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, JULY 3.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Break camp at half past six in the morning and travel four hours in the forenoon and eleven miles in the afternoon.  Found the road sandy.  Camp on the bank of the North Platte.  (Distance, 25 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, JULY 4.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The Fourth of July will remind an American of his home wherever he may be or however far he may be separated from it.  Early in the morning we fired several rounds, and made as much noise as possible in honor of the day of Independence.  We started in the morning and soon passed an encampment where we had the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We halted at noon within sight of Court House Rock.  This rock is several hundred feet in length and at a distance bears a strong resemblance to a large building with a cupola.  It is said to be about 12 miles from the road, but to measure the distance with the eye, a person would judge it to be not more than one mile distant.  The name of J. J. Astor, with the date 1798, is said to have been carved there, and that it may still be seen.  Mr. Astor was one of the American fur traders to cross the continent.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We camp seven miles south of Chimney Rock.  This rock rises about 255 feet and in form very much resembles a chimney.  Standing as it does on a level plain, it can be seen 25 or 30 miles away.  Its material is sandstone and may easily be worked or cut.  (Distance, 20 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, JULY 5.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather pleasant.  Traveled 18 miles up the Platte and camped.  Grass is quite scarce here.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, JULY 6.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We passed "Scott's Bluffs" in the forenoon which present a very peculiar appearance.  We found plenty of wood at noon--the first we have had for four days.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Camp at a fine spring, where we also find an abundance of fuel but a scarcity of grass.  In the afternoon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, JULY 7.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 20 miles, principally over a barren country, and camped.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, JULY 8.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather fair with a high wind.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Start in the morning and after traveling three hours we reach Laramie River, which we ford with no other difficulty than to have some of our packs considerably wet.  This stream, although small, is very rapid and has a gravelly bottom with clear water.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We soon after passed Fort Laramie and camp two miles above the fort on Laramie River.  By recrossing the river we have good grass for our horses, mules and cattle.  (Distance, 15 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, JULY 9.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Remained here today.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Before leaving Boston we had light, strong trunks manufactured--two for each pack mule--in which to pack our clothing, provisions, etc.  They were made as portable as was possible to insure sufficient strength.  We now, after packing them about 700 miles, get a vote of the company to break them up and make bags from the leather coverings.  This measure some of us have believed to be a wise plan for a month past, but those who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, JULY 10.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather fair and warm; thermometer 98 degrees in the shade.  Remained here today.  In the evening I went down to the fort.  The outside wall is built of adobe, or sun-burnt bricks, and encloses about one-half acre.  The buildings are within the enclosure.  The fort was established several years since by the American Fur Company for the purpose of trading with the Indians, and was sold a short time since by that company to the United States Government, and is now occupied by Colonel Sanderson with a regiment of United States Cavalry.  He is now engaged in building a mill, house, barracks, etc.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, JULY 11.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We still remain here.</P>
160.sgm:<P>All the camp grounds near the fort are literally covered with wagon irons, clothing, beans, bacon, pork and provisions of almost all kinds, which have been left by the advance immigration to lighten their loads and facilitate their speed.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, JULY 12.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Decamp at 9 o'clock and after traveling 21 miles, we camp on a small stream.  Grass poor.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, JULY 13.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather cool.  Started at seven in the morning and after 13 miles' travel, we found a most excellent spring at which we dined.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we cross a small stream and camp on the Platte, where we find good grass.  (Distance, 24 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, JULY 14.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Travel 13 miles in the forenoon and 12 in the afternoon and camped on a small river.  Grass scarce.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, JULY 15.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather fair and warm.  Remain in camp today.  We have found plenty of wood since we left Laramie.  The country through this part is hilly and broken; soil barren and sterile.  The health of the company is good.  The cholera followed the immigration to near Fort Laramie, making sad ravages in very many companies; but it seems at last to have slackened its hold and seems to have become extinct.  For the last week we have seen but few graves by the roadside.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Many were the men who left their homes for California last spring, with bright prospects of reaping a golden harvest within a few months and returning to their home and friends.  But alas! their hopes were blasted, and instead they have left their bones to bleach upon the great plains of Nebraska, with not even a stone to mark their resting place.  Many, who one day have been in the enjoyment of perfect health, the next have been in their graves.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, JULY 16.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started in the morning and in good season, and drove 17 miles before dinner, and eight more in the afternoon.  The land over which we have traveled today is very barren and produces very little, excepting wild sage weeds with a very little grass, which at this time is perfectly dry.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, JULY 17.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started in the morning and traveled eight miles to the lower ferry on the North Platte, where we camped.  Here we found a poor ferry boat in which we carried our packs to the opposite side of the stream, and caused all of our animals to swim over.  We lost one mule by being drowned, with which exception we were very fortunate.  The stream at this point is very rapid and deep.  Travel 12 miles in the afternoon over a barren, sandy country and camp on the Platte.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, JULY 18.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Travel 18 miles up the river and camp.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The land is poor and many of our mules are in poor condition; and some of the weakest appear as if they would be unable to proceed a great distance further.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Large quantities of bacon and other kinds of provisions have been left by immigrants by the side of the road when teams became exhausted, and may be seen in large heaps on almost every camp ground.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Farming and mining implements of all descriptions, mechanics' tools, and wagons, all go to make up the list of abandoned property.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, JULY 19.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Travel 12 miles and camp on the North Platte, two miles above the upper ferry, at a point where the road leaves the river.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we have very fine sport catching a sort of white fish from the river which are very plentiful at this place, and are a fine fish.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, JULY 20.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We did not start today until noon.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The filter of which I have before spoken has been packed all these many miles from Independence on the mule of George Carlton.  He has spoken in favor of leaving it several times, but the consent of some of the company could not be had.  What could be done?  The poor mule was getting weak and poor.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Carlton took the filter from the pack and put it into a thicket and informed two or three whom he well knew were in favor of leaving it behind, and said if we would "keep dark" he would let it remain there.  So the filter was left behind when we started.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we traveled 11 miles and camped at a spring.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, JULY 21.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Start in the morning and in ten miles' travel come to some very strong alkali water.  Travel 5 miles farther and dine at a good spring.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Go 5 miles in the afternoon.  Wild sage is the principal production here.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, JULY 22.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather fine.  Start in the morning and travel 20 miles.  Camp on the Sweetwater River, a branch of the Platte, one mile above Independence Rock.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The country between the Platte and Sweetwater Rivers is very barren, destitute of timber, with very little grass or other vegetation, except wild sage.  Much of the water is alkali, poisonous to cattle and horses and is entirely unfit for use.  When water has evaporated here, a substance resembling saleratus may be gathered up in large quantities.  In some cases it may be found on the surface three or four inches in thickness, white and pure as the finest pearlash manufactured; and on trail we found it equally as good for the purpose of making bread.  We have seen large numbers of dead cattle by the roadside the past three days.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, JULY 23.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Remain encamped here today for the benefit of our tired mules.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We had a fine shower in the afternoon.  A buffalo was killed by one of our company yesterday which affords us plenty of meat.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, JULY 24.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The majority of our company is not ready to advance, consequently we must remain here another day.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The excuse is made that it is necessary for the animals to recruit, but the grass is poor, and I believe the animals will gain very little.  A short stop might be of some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, JULY 25.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We break camp and travel up the Sweetwater River an hour, which brings us to the Devil's Gate.  This is a fissure in the rock in the Sweetwater River, thirty or forty feet wide, two or three hundred feet long, and perhaps two hundred feet high, through which the river passes, and is quite a natural curiosity.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Travel 20 miles and camp on the river.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, JULY 26.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Travel 10 miles in the forenoon and 10 in the afternoon, continuing up the Sweetwater.  There is a range of mountains of each side of the valley.  On the right they are composed almost entirely of barren rocks, destitute of vegetation.  On the left they have some soil and some vegetation.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, JULY 27.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Start in the morning and after six miles' travel the road leaves the river and we travel 16 miles farther before we find either water or grass, when we reach the river again.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We travel up the river two miles further and camp.  Grass poor.  The land along the Sweetwater is very poor, with the exception of a little bottom land.  Today we had a view of the snow capped mountains--the Wind River Mountains.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, JULY 28.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Travel up the river 8 miles, where we find good grass, which we have not had the pleasure of seeing before for several days.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, JULY 29.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather fair and warm.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We remained encamped here today.  I went out from camp a short distance into a small piece of timber and on my return a young deer ran out before me and I shot it with my pistol through the heart.  This is the first deer that has been killed by the company.  Mr. Lyon also killed a Mountain Sheep, or Bighorn.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, JULY 30.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>As we didn't move our camp today some of us went deer hunting.  Deer were quite plentiful, and J. B. Gage killed one, which we dressed and carried four miles to camp.  I fired several shots with buckshot but did not succeed in killing any game.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The country in this vicinity is broken and mountainous; soil is rocky, sandy and not very productive.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE GOLDEN GATE.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, JULY 31.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Weather fine--warm days and cool nights.  Break camp at a late hour and leave the Sweetwater River, and in 16 miles' travel we intersect it again, where we unpack our mules and dine.  Grouse are very plentiful in this region.  Remain two hours, after which we travel up the river six miles and camp where we find good grass.  The Sweetwater is a fork of the Platte and derives its name from the peculiar taste of the water.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 1.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We are now near the summit of the Rocky Mountains, at an elevation of about 7,000 feet above the Gulf of Mexico.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There was a heavy frost this morning.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled up the river 11 miles in the forenoon.  In the afternoon we traveled up the river five miles farther and camped on a small branch of the Sweetwater.  We left the road today with the intention of taking a straight course through the mountains to Fort Hall, thereby avoiding the circuitous route by the way of Fort Bridges.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Captain Thing, our guide, states that he once traveled the route and in his opinion we shall find good grass and water, and that there is an Indian trail through which he thinks he can follow.  The main road is now several miles to the south of us.  This is known as the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains.  Many suppose it to be a narrow, precipitous pass with high mountains on either side; but it is directly the reverse, it being almost a level plain, extending many miles to the north and to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The altitude of the South Pass is said to be 7,200 feet, as taken by Col. J. C. Fremont about two years since.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, AUGUST 2.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The weather was so cold last night that water in our buckets was frozen over this morning.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 13 miles over a sandy, barren country and intersect the Little Sandy River, a small stream coursing south.  After camping I went out and shot a dozen grouse.  Several others were out at the same time and killed as many as I did.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, AUGUST 3.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 9 miles to the Big Sandy River and camped.  Land poor and somewhat broken; destitute of timber with the exception of small willows near the streams.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, AUGUST 4.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started this morning for Green River and traveled 30 miles over a barren desert, destitute of both grass and water.  The country is not very broken, and we had no difficulty in traveling wherever we chose.  We intersected Green River at a point where grass was abundant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, AUGUST 5.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Remained in camp here today.  Green River is a clear, rapid stream, ten to fifteen rods wide and is fordable in many places.  It is one of the principal branches of the Colorado.  Its waters are very cold, and its source is said to be Fremont's Peak, a snow-capped mountain a considerable distance north, the altitude of which is about 13,000 feet.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, AUGUST 6.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>As we did not start today, some of us went deer hunting and killed one buck.  At 9 o'clock in the evening the men whom we left behind with Mr. Hodgdon arrived safely, he having nearly recovered.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, AUGUST 7.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Two or three of our company were not in very good health today and consequently we remained at the old camp ground.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 8.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Our mules are in much better condition than they were when we camped on Green River.  They had become so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Start this morning and travel down the river about one mile where we ford it without difficulty.  We then followed down the river two miles farther to a branch that came from the west.  We followed this branch up 15 miles and camped.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, AUGUST 9.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We left the stream this morning and commenced ascending a mountain.  At noon we ate our dinner at a very fine mountain spring.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we continued to ascend and passed through a heavy growth of spruce timber.  Our ascent was gradual until about 4 o'clock, when we found ourselves at the top of a peak of the Rocky Mountains.  To the west and north the descent was steep--almost precipitous.  We could see the stream that we had left in the morning many hundreds of feet below, but to reach it with our pack mules seemed almost an impossibility.  There were but two ways from which to choose--either to descend to the stream, or retrace our steps.  We were not long in deciding, and we chose the first and concluded to try to descend.  In about two hours we reached the stream in a small pleasant valley.  The descent made by us was about 2,000 feet and probably about one and one-half miles in length, the greater part being covered with a thick growth of standing and fallen timber.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Captain Thing says he was never before at this place and is at a loss to know what route to take to get out.  (Distance, 15 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, AUGUST 10.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started in the morning and followed the stream up seven miles to its source.  We then traveled one mile farther and halted, where we found neither water nor grass.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Captain Thing, with two or three men, went ahead to endeavor to find a passage through the mountains, which are heavily timbered and very rough and broken.  They returned before night and we went on two miles farther through a dense growth of spruce, pine and fir and camped.  Good grass and excellent water.  This is in a small valley.  (Distance, 10 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, AUGUST 11.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started in good season this morning and soon after crossed some small mountainous streams, the headwaters of the Columbia.  We traveled over hills and through small valleys a few miles when we began to descend a high mountain.  The descent is very steep and we were an hour in making it.  We reached the valley at length, through which passed a small stream with a southern course, which is probably a tributary of Bear River.  We followed the valley down five miles, where we halted an hour or two, after which we packed and went down five miles farther, where we left the valley and passed over a ridge in a westerly direction and entered another small valley with a small stream.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We followed down this stream five miles and camped.  We passed over places today on the sides of mountains along Indian trails which were about one foot wide, on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We have passed over several snow banks within two or three days, and sometimes found beautiful flowers in blossom within 20 feet of them.  (Distance, 20 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, AUGUST 12.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We had a dispute, or difference of opinion, this morning about starting.  Captain Thing wished to remain here today and look out a route for tomorrow, and go straight through to Fort Hall.  He thought we had come too far north for the route he had taken eleven years previous, and said that had caused our misfortunte.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A part of the company desired to remain and follow the guide.  The others had lost all confidence in his knowledge as a guide in the Rocky Mountain country, and wished to start today and follow the small stream down to Bear River valley, where it was thought to flow.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A vote of the company was taken on the question and the latter party was in the majority.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We started at 8 o'clock and travelled down the stream a distance of about 22 miles, where we intersected Bear River valley near the mouth of Smith's Fork where the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Our road today was wellnigh impassable.  We are once again on the California trail after having wandered in the mountains for twelve days.  Many ox teams that were behind us when we left the road on the Sweetwater River, are now many miles in advance of us.  This route has been christened "Thing's Cutoff."  A majority of the company was in favor of trying it, relying on Captain Thing's knowledge of the country and experience.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, AUGUST 13.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled ten miles down the river, crossed Thomas' Fork and camped.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Bear River valley is very beautiful and possesses a fertile soil, but the altitude is high.  The nights are probably frosty.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Bear River discharges its waters into Great Salt Lake at its northern extremity.  The River Jordan also discharges its Salt Lake at its south side, and yet the lake has no visible outlet.  (Distance, 10 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, AUGUST 14.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>In the forenoon we passed over a high spur of the mountains and intersected the river again near Peg Leg Smith's, an old one-legged trader who has lived here among the Indians fourteen years.  He has a small log cabin and one or two other small buildings.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We saw an old Mormon here who tried hard to induce us to go by the way of Salt Lake City.  He said it would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We left the Mormon and traveled six miles and camped.  (Distance, 18 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 15.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 20 miles down Bear River and camped.  The weather is fine.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, AUGUST 16.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started in the morning and after 13 miles of travel reached the Soda Springs.  From the journals of Col. John C. Fremont, Bryant and others, anyone would suppose that the waters of these springs were a delicious beverage to the weary traveler, and I had been led to anticipate having a fine draught of soda from nature's own fountains, pure and unadulterated.  I came up to one of the springs where several members of the company were drinking from a tin cup.  Feeling sowewhat thirsty I did not wait my turn for the cup, but lay down to drink from the spring.  I drank one or two swallows when I arose, perfectly satisfied with soda water.  I very much disliked its taste.  Of all the bad water I have been obliged to drink on the plains it is the worst of all.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>There are several of these springs in this vicinity, but the most interesting of all is near the bank of Bear River, and is known as the Steamboat Spring.  It issues from a hole in a rock, a foot or more in diameter, and at one moment the water will boil up a foot or two above the surface of the rock and at the next it will settle down so that no water will be visible.  Thus it continues to ebb and flow, and has ever since first discovered by white men, it is said.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The chemical qualities I will not undertake to explain.  Some of the company seemed to like the taste of the soda water, but I noticed they did not drink very heartily from it.  Three miles from the Soda Springs we came to a fork in the road--one branch leading to Fort Hall, it being the old Oregon Trail of about 1843.  The other is a new trail called the "Immigrants' Cutoff," which is said to be 20 or 30 miles shorter.</P>
160.sgm:<P>By a majority vote of the company we concluded to take the cutoff.  We soon after passed near an extinct crater, which at some time in the past, had vomited forth its molten lava and covered the plains over which we passed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled until about 9 o'clock and camped on a small stream.  (Distance, 28 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, AUGUST 17.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started late in the morning and traveled eight miles in the forenoon and ten in the afternoon and camped where we found good grass and good water, which are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, AUGUST 18.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled ten miles in the forenoon and 12 in the afternoon, and camped at a fine spring.  Springs are plentiful on this road and grass is good.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, AUGUST 19.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Remained encamped today.  Water was frozen over to the thickness of a quarter of an inch last night.  Summer berries are very plentiful along the route.  They much resemble the sugar plum of New England, but are nearly as large as a good sized cherry.  We have found the road very hilly for the last two or three days.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, AUGUST 20.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started at 8 o'clock in the morning and traveled eight and one-half hours before we found water.  Camped at a fine spring.  (Distance, 25 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, AUGUST 21.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 11 miles in the forenoon and five in the afternoon.  Camped at a spring at the south of the road.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 22.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Decamped and nine miles of travel brought us to a small stream, after which we cross a barren plain, 12 miles broad, destitute of wood, water and grass.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>After we had crossed the desert plain we found a small stream of clear, cool water at which we halted two hours and became refreshed.  We traveled six miles to Raft River and camped.  Here we intersected the old trail from Fort Hall to California.  The trail through the Cutoff--a distance of about 120 miles--is good with the exception of being considerably uneven.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, AUGUST 23.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started at 1 o'clock P.M. and traveled up the stream 11 miles and camped.  Road very dry and extremely dusty.  Raft River is a tributary of Snake River, which is one of the principal forks of the Columbia.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Finding good grass three or four feet high in this valley, and our stock being in poor condition for traveling, we concluded to remain here until Monday morning.  A few of our mules and horses have been left behind, they having become completely worn out or exhausted.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, AUGUST 27.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Decamped at an early hour and 11 miles of travel brought us to a small stream where we dined.  Eight miles further we intersected the Mormon road, leading from Salt Lake City to California.  Camped at a spring six miles farther on.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Calvin S. Fifield and Dr. Haynes left the company this morning and went on in advance, with the intention of buying their provisions of the immigrants and of camping with them, and of arriving in California in advance of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, AUGUST 28.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 11 miles in the forenoon over a hilly and broken country, when we came to Goose Creek in latitude 41&deg; 45' agreeable to an observation taken by the quadrant.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled up the stream 10 miles in the afternoon.  Road level and dusty.  Good water and poor grass.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It is thought by many that the Mormons of Salt Lake City have discovered rich gold mines on this stream, and that they are now privately working them and are doing well.  How far the statement deserves credit is not known, but I have seen no good reason to believe it.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 29.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started at seven in the morning and traveled 12 miles in the forenoon, when we halted for dinner; after which we traveled 15 miles before finding water.  We camped at a spring where grass was not very plentiful.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, AUGUST 30.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Very cold morning.  Ice formed one-half inch in thickness.  We traveled 12 miles in the forenoon over a barren desert and nooned in a small valley, where we found a small quantity of poor water.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled up the valley eight miles in the afternoon and camped at a spring.  Grass good.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, AUGUST 31.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started at seven in the morning and traveled up the valley eight miles, where we intersected a small stream where we halted for dinner, after which we traveled two miles and came to a warm spring, the water of which is so hot that the hand cannot be held in it for a moment with comfort.  Traveled eight miles farther up the valley, thence over a high mountain ridge and camped at a spring.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 1.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>In the forenoon we traveled over a barren plain, ten miles in extent, when we found a spring.  Traveled seven miles in the afternoon and intersected a tributary of Mary's River, or Humboldt River, and camped.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 2.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We did not move our camp today.  Grass good.  All in good health.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 3.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled down the Humboldt valley 11 miles in the forenoon and dined on the river, which at this point is a small stream of clear water.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The valley is broad with a fertile soil which produces a good quality of grass.  At this time it is parched with drouth.  We traveled down the valley 12 miles over a level road, and camped where we found plenty of grass, four or five feet high, very thick and of fine quality.  The land in this vicinity is fertile, but is entirely destitute of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>They have agents along the road to decoy immigrants through their settlements and then make as much out of them as possible.  (Traveled 23 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 4.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started in good season this morning and in seven miles of travel we crossed a fork of Mary's River--coming from the north--after which we traveled 16 miles and camped on the river, where we found good grass.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We passed over some sand hills today where the road was extremely dusty.  After traveling a few miles over this dusty road on a warm day a white man will be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 5.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started this morning at sunrise and passed down the Humboldt a few miles, where we met a large train of Mormon teams, 53 days from Sutter's Fort in the Sacramento River valley, on their way to Salt Lake City.  They report the miners in California as doing well, and some of them stated that they had as much gold as they wished for.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 15 miles in the forenoon and 10 in the afternoon and camped on the river, where we found but little grass.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started in the morning and went down the river three miles, when we left the same and commenced ascending a mountain, and traveled 18 miles through a mountainous country and over a rough road before we again intersected the river.  We then traveled down the river a mile and camped.  Grass poor.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Our stock is again in poor condition for traveling, and we have yet a long road before us before we reach the Sacramento valley.  Our cattle, which are our principal dependence for our food, are almost destitute of fat or suet, and are composed chiefly of hide, horns, cords and gristle and lean, flabby meat.  It is not very nutritious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 7.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Decamped at sunrise this morning and traveled 11 miles in the forenoon over a very poor and barren country.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we met a train of United States Government teams from Oregon, under the command of Gen. Joel Palmer.  This train left Oregon early in the spring, and came by the way of California, where it is thought it remained a long time.  It was sent from Oregon with provisions for the benefit of the United States soldiers who are on their way thither to assist the Oregonians in repelling the barbarous attacks of the Indians upon their settlements, it is said, and General Palmer expects to meet the command near Fort Hall.</P>
160.sgm:<P>General Palmer reports having had a serious battle with the Digger Indians at Mud Lake, where he lost one man killed and had two or three wounded.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 10 miles in the afternoon and camped on the river, where we found good grass.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 8.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled down the river 10 miles in the morning, when we left it and pursued a straight course over a barren plain on which nothing grows except wild sage and greasewood.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After traveling four miles across the desert we again intersected the river and camped.  Some of our company <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO, 1849.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The days are very warm but the nights are cool and pleasant.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 9.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Finding a good supply of grass at this camp ground we did not move our camp today.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Broke camp at six o'clock this morning and traveled down the river 12 miles in the forenoon and 13 in the afternoon and camped.  Grass poor.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Decamped at 5.30 o'clock this morning and traveled 11 miles in the forenoon and 12 in the afternoon.  The road down this river is comfortably good, but is very dry and dusty.  The weather has been extremely warm today.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 12.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled ten miles in the forenoon and nine in the afternoon and camped on the river.  A slight shower of rain fell during the night.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 16 miles in the forenoon and eight more in the afternoon and camped on the river, where we found a limited quantity of grass.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 14.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 12 miles in the forenoon and halted where grass was not very plentiful.  In the afternoon we traveled five miles farther, when we came to another fork in the road.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The left hand road is the old trail and leads down the river to the "Sink," as it is called, it being where the water of the river disappears in the sandy desert, as is the case with a majority of the streams of the "Great Interior Basin."</P>
160.sgm:<P>From the "Sink" the road passes thence over a desert plain to Salmon Trout River, and thence across the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the Sacramento valley.  The distance from this place to the Sacramento valley, according to the best information in our possession, is about 300 miles.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The other, or right hand road, is called the Cherokee Cutoff, and the distance is said to be but 180 miles from this place to the Feather River gold mines.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>THE HUMBOLDT RIVER TRAIL</P>
160.sgm:<P>The question arose, which of the two roads shall we pursue--follow the old road--the advantages and disadvantages of which we are pretty well informed; or shall we risk the new one of which we know nothing, except from unreliable reports.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The question was submitted to a vote of the company, and it was in favor of trying the "Cutoff," as it is called, with scarcely a dissenting vote.  Haynes and Fifield, who left the company at Raft River, left a posted notice here, which showed them to be several days in advance of us.  They chose the old trail, and cautioned us against taking the new one, as it was their opinion that it was a longer and a poorer road.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The "Cutoff" leaves the Humboldt River at a bend, where it curves more southerly, and at what in later times was called "Wannamucca" on the Central Pacific Railroad.  The "Cutoff" leaves the river and crosses a desert plain, very barren and slightly undulating, in a westerly direction.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We left the Humboldt with the expectation of being at the gold mines in about a week, providing the reports were reliable as to the distance.  We traveled 14 miles after leaving the river before we found water.  At that place we found a spring, but there being several trains camped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>There is not a spear of grass to be found in this section, and we were compelled to tie our mules to sage brush to keep them from straying away, without a particle of food.  (Distance, 31 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 15.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started this morning at 5.30 o'clock and traveled 19 miles across a barren, undulating desert, when we came to a place known as the Rabbit Wells, where four or five wells, some 8 or 10 feet deep, have been excavated by the immigrants in advance for the purpose of obtaining water for themselves and their stock.</P>
160.sgm:<P>These wells, with one or two exceptions, were filled with dead animals.  Having seen the water at the bottom and being so eager to obtain it, they rushed head first into them, where they perished and could not well be extricated.  The water of these wells is of a poor quality and proved to be scarce.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After traveling six or seven hours over a very dusty road on a hot day, it is far better than none.  There was a large number of immigrants at the wells and it was difficult to obtain a sufficient quantity of water, it being dipped up with tin cups as fast as it ran into the wells.  We remained there one hour and a half and obtained what water we were able to, but could get very little for our animals.  Neither was there anything for them to eat.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>As we had no beef killed we had nothing for dinner.  Beef had been our principal dependence for some time past.  It had become very poor and we had almost nothing to cook it with.  There are no "Buffalo chips" this side of the Rockies.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We started in the afternoon and at about sunset came in sight of Black Rock (Spring), which was then about nine miles distant across a level, barren plain.</P>
160.sgm:<P>When within about six miles of Black Rock one of the mules which I was driving became so exhausted that he refused to go any farther, and I was obliged to unpack and leave him with the pack by the roadside; after which I reached Black Rock at about eleven o'clock at night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The company, with a few exceptions, had arrived in advance of me and were principally asleep.  I traveled the whole distance (40 miles) on foot, and drove two mules and one horse, which made considerable extra travel.  I had no dinner or supper, and after arriving at Black Rock, rolled myself in my blankets and was soon asleep.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 16.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The country over which we made forty miles yesterday is known as the Black Rock Desert, and the road is literally strewn with dead animals--cattle, horses and mules.  The stench of these dead and decaying carcasses contributes largely to render the traveling still more disagreeable than it would otherwise be.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Black Rock Spring, so-called, is a spring several feet in diameter, out of which the water is continually boiling at or near a boiling point.  The water may be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We started early this morning and traveled three miles where we found a small quantity of grass and camped.  This is the first grass that our animals have found to eat since Friday noon--nearly 45 hours--since which time we have traveled over 60 miles.  After we had camped we had a beef animal slaughtered, and a little before noon we managed to get a breakfast, which was the first that some of us had eaten since Friday night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There are several hot springs in this vicinity.  Beef will cook quite quickly in them.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some of our mules and cattle were left behind on the road yesterday, with a few packs by the roadside.</P>
160.sgm:<P>George Carlton, with two or three others of the company, went back to procure the packs, together with as many of the animals as were able to be brought into camp.  They succeeded in bringing into camp the whole number that had been left by our company.  (Distance, 3 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started in the afternoon and traveled eleven miles where we found some grass and camped.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We remained here until afternoon, when we broke camp and traveled 15 miles to Mud Lake, where we stopped for the night.  Our course since leaving Humboldt has been nearly northwest and we have traveled upward of 80 miles.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The country is nearly all a barren desert, with very little vegetation except wild sage.  What is known as Mud Lake resembles at this time a marsh more than a lake, and is covered with large coarse grass.  It may, perhaps, be more of a lake at some seasons of the year.  (Distance, 15 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We did not move our camp today.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This is the point where General Palmer's corps had a battle with the Indians a few weeks since, but we have not seen an Indian since we left the Humboldt River.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A large percentage of the immigration took this route and have passed this point, but it is thought now that the report stating that it did not exceed 180 miles from the Humboldt to Feather River mines, was very unreliable and untruthful.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 20.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started in the morning and soon after entered a canyon and traveled 12 miles in the forenoon and halted where the rocky bluffs rise nearly 300 feet almost perpendicularly on either side.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled up the canyon nine miles in the afternoon and camped at a spring.  Canyon I believe to be a Spanish word and means a deep gorge, ravine, or gulch between high, steep banks, worn by water courses.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Cold morning.  Started at 7 o'clock in the morning and traveled up the canyon 12 miles in the forenoon over a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 22.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started early in the morning and went over a ridge a distance of 7 miles, thence over a plain 10 miles and camped.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We had a distant view of the Sierra Nevada Mountains today.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 23.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 5 miles today and camped at a spring.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 24.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Decamped early in the morning and after traveling 10 miles, passed several hot springs.  Went 9 miles farther and found good grass and water, where we halted two hours, after which we traveled 3 miles and camped at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in some large timber, it being the first large trees we have met with since coming into the Great Interior Basin, a distance of about 700 miles.  With the exception of a few small valleys along the streams and lakes and at the base of the mountains, the Great Basin seems to be a very barren country.  It is a very disagreeable country to travel over.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 25.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started this morning and traveled northerly along the base of the Sierras about six miles.  We then began to ascend toward the summit of the ridge, and after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>This seems to be the "Divide" between the waters of the Great Basin and those of the Pacific Ocean.  After reaching the summit we soon began to descend and after a descent of one mile entered a beautiful valley.  In the afternoon we traveled 10 miles through a heavy growth of yellow pine timber and camped.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It was after dark before we camped and we unpacked our mules at the top of a steep bluff overlooking a lake, known as Goose Lake.  No water near our camp ground.  The company is scattered tonight, having camped in several different places along the trail.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After we had camped Mr. Carlton and myself volunteered to go to the lake for water, and with buckets we started down the steep, rocky bluff which we found difficult of descent, especially in the dark.  The distance was about one-half mile to the base, or shore of the lake, where we anticipated finding an abundant supply of water.  But to our great disappointment, we found nothing but a field of dry sand.</P>
160.sgm:<P>However, we supposed we must be very near the shore of the lake, and started in that direction.  We traveled about two miles farther over the dry sand, indulging the fond hope of soon reaching the waters of the lake, when we would have the privilege and pleasure of quenching our thirst, which was almost unbearable.</P>
160.sgm:<P>But we were doomed to disappointment as we found nothing but a lake of sand--dry and difficult to travel over; and we returned--climbed the mountain and lay down to rest as best we could.  To be really thirsty, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 26.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We left camp early in the morning and eventually reached an abundant supply of water.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We left the Oregon trail, which bears northerly along the west end of Goose Lake, our course being nearly south.  Our camp last night was near the line separating the Territories of California and Oregon. We traveled down a valley and camped on a small mountain stream.  Road good.  (Distance, 17 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 27.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>After traveling a short distance this morning we came to the head of Pitt River.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled down the valley 12 miles in the forenoon and 9 in the afternoon and camped on the river, which is a rapid stream nearly as large as the Humboldt.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled down the river 23 miles and found an excellent road and a good supply of grass.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 29.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 20 miles over a rough road and camped on Pitt River.  Grass good.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 30.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We did not move our camp today.  Latitude 40&deg; 7'.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The valley along this river has a fertile soil and produces a good quality and a sufficient quantity of grass, but is bordered on both sides by lofty mountains, timbered with pine, fir and spruce. The Indians are said to be very hostile, but we have not met with any since crossing the mountains.  They are said to have killed several immigrants within a short time.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, OCTOBER 1.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We left camp at an early hour and traveled down the river 14 miles in the forenoon and 8 in the afternoon.  We found a good road and grass plentiful.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We broke camp at 7 in the morning and soon after left the river and went over a rough, hilly road 12 miles, where we stopped near a small stream and had our lunch.  In the afternoon we traveled 7 miles and camped at a spring.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The road was uneven and through a heavy growth of timber.  We met with some oak timber on the road today, it being the first we have seen since near the Missouri line.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 3.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Started early and first traveled up a long hill, or mountain about 6 miles, and thence 5 miles farther, and finding no water we halted.  In the afternoon we traveled 11 miles, where we found good water and camped.  The country through which we have traveled today is well timbered.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Broke camp at 7 o'clock in the morning and traveled 15 miles in the forenoon and halted at Little Goose Lake.  We traveled 4 miles in the afternoon, when we found a bountiful supply of good grass and water and camped.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We traveled 14 miles and camped at Feather Lake, it being the source of the north fork of Feather River.  country appears to be nearly all very heavily timbered.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, OCTOBER 6.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We traveled 6 miles through a dense forest and reached a branch of Feather River; then traveled down the river 6 miles, where we came into a large meadow; thence down along the meadow 5 miles and camped.  A branch of Feather River passes through this meadow and it is known as the Feather River Meadow.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, OCTOBER 7.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled down the river 2 miles and camped.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, OCTOBER 8.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>It was thought by many of the company that it might be practical to follow the river down to the Feather River mines, and thus save much time and travel in avoiding the long, circuitous route by the way of the Sacramento valley and Lassen's Ranch, and consequently, six of us started in the morning with about two days' rations, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, OCTOBER 9.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>The morning was cool and very foggy.  We started as soon as it was fairly light, and went on down the little valley to the southern end, where the stream enters a deep, high canyon with high precipitous mountains on both sides.  We traveled down the canyon about one mile farther and found the mountains so extremely rough, we became convinced that it would be an impossibility to travel through them with mules and horses.  We gave up the expedition and started for camp, where we arrived about one o'clock very much fatigued.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We did not move our camp today.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 10.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Traveled 10 miles in the forenoon and 8 miles in the afternoon and camped on Deer Creek.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, OCTOBER 11.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>A part of the night was rainy, which was not very agreeable, as we have not had our tents set for a long time, or since we left Raft River.  We traveled 10 miles in the forenoon and halted at a spring where there was no grass.  In the afternoon we went on 8 miles farther and camped at a spring.  No grass.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We started at one o'clock at night and traveled over a rough road through a dense forest 10 miles and halted, where we found water one-half mile north of the road--down a steep mountain--but no grass.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Started again at 8 o'clock and after traveling six miles we emerged from the dense forest through which we have traveled for several days past, and came into a very barren country.  Went five miles farther and halted, with neither grass nor water.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we traveled nine miles and camped on Antelope Creek, one mile south of the road.  The country through which we have traveled today is extremely rough and barren.  (Distance, 30 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SATURDAY, OCTOBER 13.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Break camp in the morning and after three miles of travel we entered the Sacramento valley--the valley which we have so long wished to see.  Traveled eight miles farther and halted on Deer Creek.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In the afternoon we passed Lassen's Ranch and camped on the bank of the Sacramento River.  (Distance, 17 miles.)</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The full distance from where we left the old trail at Winnemucca on the Humboldt to this place, as kept by me, is 466 miles; and since we left Independence, Mo., 2,130 miles.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SUNDAY, OCTOBER 14.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>Moved our camp down the river one mile and camped again.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONDAY, OCTOBER 15.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We did not move our camp today.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TUESDAY, OCTOBER 16.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We traveled down the Sacramento 23 miles and camped on a creek.  We have found fine grass since we entered this valley.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We traveled 24 miles down the river and crossed Feather River and camped on the southern bank.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We are now very near Feather River mines, which we were told we could reach in 180 miles from the forks of the roads on the Humboldt at Winnemucca.  Instead, as per my account, which I believe is very nearly correct, the distance is 514 miles as we have traveled it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We left the Humboldt River, September 14, and reached here October 17, being 33 days on the "Greenhorn's Cutoff," as it is now commonly known.  Probably nearly one-half of the immigrants came by this route.</P>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>We remained encamped here today, endeavoring to make some division of the property of the Granite State <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FRIDAY, OCTOBER 19.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>A division of the stock--cattle, mules and horses--was effected in the forenoon, and some of us went up to the mines in the afternoon.  A portion of the members appeared dissatisfied with the division.  We had but few cattle left and they were very thin and in poor condition.  Many of our mules and horses had died, and were left on the road; and those that were alive were nearly all seemingly worn out and of but little value.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Granite State and California Mining and Trading Company was this day dissolved by a unanimous vote of its members.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It would have been dissolved long before it reached California had it not been for the beef cattle, which were the means of holding it together.  They were their principle dependence for food, and it was not practical to divide them among small squads, as they would have been of very little benefit to them.</P>
160.sgm:<P>When we entered the Sacramento valley we had but three or four young cattle and they were so very poor that they could scarcely travel.  They constituted our entire stock of provisions.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Two or three gross errors were committed by the managers before we left Boston, which were the cause, in great part, of the great length of time consumed on the road.  First, the company should not have consisted of more than ten members, and it should not have been a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S MILL, 1849.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Then we should have had good mules, not less than four years old, and such as had been broken to packing.  The majority of our mules were not over two or three years of age and had never been broken.  They were entirely unfit for the exceedingly strenuous journey "across the plains."  For a pack train to drive cattle on that journey for their dependence for their provisions is a great absurdity.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Had we traveled as rapidly as we expected and intended to have done when we started on the journey, we could not have driven our cattle very long until they would have died.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Each man should have owned three or four trained mules in good condition.  I am of the opinion that under good conditions and properly managed, the journey may be made, fairly easily, in 70 days, with a good pack train consisting of 10 or 12 active, energetic and courageous men.  We were about 144 days on the road, or about twice the time that should have been needed under proper conditions and management.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The last cutoff, or the "Greenhorn's Cutoff," as it became to be generally known, that we were induced to adopt proved to be more than 300 miles farther than it was represented to be in distance, and probably more than 200 miles longer than the old California trail that we left.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It was currently reported and probably with truth, that some time early in August, after the immigrants had begun to pass down the trail on the Humboldt River, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>This new route entered the Sacramento valley near the Lassen ranch, and as Lassen owned many cattle and horses, he was able to profit largely by his trade with the tired and famished immigrants.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He probably succeeded in profiting several thousand dollars by his trade with the poor immigrants, and it is currently reported that the immigrants have threatened his life, and that they have killed many of his cattle for food, without any remuneration to him.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A large number of immigrants are still behind, many of them with little or no subsistence, and had not the Californians sent out mules, horses, cattle and provisions, probably many of them would have perished with starvation.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The journey "across the plains" is a very hard experience, the hardships and privations of which cannot be realized by any one who has not undertaken it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On the other hand, it presents much interesting scenery--the grand, the beautiful and the sublime.  Lofty mountains and green, verdant valleys, majestic rivers and sandy, barren plains--all contribute, with much more, to make it a very interesting, and in a way, an enjoyable experience.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Nature may be seen in its wildest grandeur where civilization and art have neither added to its usefulness nor retrenched its beauty.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The full distance traveled from Independence, Mo., to the Sacramento River, at Lassen's Ranch, as kept by me, is as follows:</P>
160.sgm:<P>In May, 73 miles; in June, 429 miles; in July, 436 miles; in August, 471 miles; in September, 523 miles; in October, 198 miles.  This makes it 2,130 miles to Sacramento River.  To Feather River, near Oroville, 2,178 miles.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>THE LAND OF GOLD.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The following pages are from the original manuscript written by Kimball Webster, which relates a few of the many experiences in California from October, 1849, to June, 1851, and in Oregon from June, 1851, to July, 1854.--EDITOR.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At that time California and Oregon were both territories and belonged to the United States, and both in a semi-primitive condition.  California had been a part of Mexico until 1847, only two years prior to the time of which I am writing.  This seems difficult to comprehend at the present time, 1914, when California and Oregon have taken their places among the great and leading states of the Union, as to population, whealth and influences.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On the arrival in California of the gold seekers of 1849, the prospects did not present as favorable and promising an appearance to a large percentage of the newly arrived immigrants as they had been led to picture to their imagination.  Very many of them had believed that once they were in the mines, gold would be found in such quantities it would require but a few weeks, or months at the most, for them to be able to gather enough of the precious metal to enable them to return to their homes independent for the rest of their lives.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Many, however, were doomed to a most sad and bitter disappointment, and far better would it have been for such had they remained at home and enjoyed the domestic pleasures which they had left behind.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It was found that to make a success of mining gold from the California mines was one of the most laborious kinds of employment that a man could engage in; and required energy and perseverance to ensure a reasonably profitable return as a whole.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some, it is true, were fortunate in finding gold in such quantities as to enable them to gather a moderate fortune in comparatively a short time and return to their homes.  But these were exceptions.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I believe that one ounce of gold per day was above the average pay of the winers then actually at work in mining in the placer mines of California.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There was then, and for years later, a large percentage of the California miners not at work.  Some would be traveling through the mountains with pick, shovel and pan, together with as much provisions as they were able to carry--"prospecting," as it was called, or searching for a "rich lead."  Sometimes their labors would be happily and richly rewarded, but more often were they sadly disappointed.  Many at that time were lying under friendly trees, or in their tents, having been stricken down by the prevalent diseases, at that time raging in the country, many dying almost daily.  A very large number had been brought up without labor, and some were too indolent to labor; or perhaps, had been clerks or students, and to make enough for their present needs was as much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Owing to the influx of immigration into the territory in such large numbers, it was deemed best by many of the people to form a state constitution, and then ask admission to the Union.  Accordingly, a convention was called at Monterey, which framed a constitution, and a little later it was submitted to the people, who almost unanimously adopted it, and immediately forwarded it to Washington.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The first gold dust seen by me in California was at Lassen's Ranch, near where we entered the Sacramento valley.  At that point there were traders selling provisions, mining implements, clothing and other needed articles to the unfortunate immigrants who had entered the valley by the way of "Greenhorn's Cutoff," and to miners that were traveling up the valley to Redding's mines; these men taking in exchange gold dust which they wished with small scales provided for that purpose.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Gold dust at sixteen dollars per ounce was the principal medium of exchange in California.  Some of the dust was nearly clean, and some had considerable quantities of black sand mixed with it.  This at first seemed to be a very inconvenient manner of making change and paying for goods, but it possessed its good qualities.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The newcomer with his exalted ideas, on seeing the small quantity which he would receive for one, two, three or even five dollars, and so very fine was the dust, that it looked to him almost insignificant.  Some of it was so very fine that it almost required a microscope to be able <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Flour retails at 40 cents per pound; pork from 50 to 75 cents; potatoes at $1.50 per pound; sugar 50 cents; eggs $5.00 per dozen; a pick or shovel $8 to $10 each; rockers to wash gold with in the mines, from $40 to $50 each; a quicksilver gold rocker $300; lumber in the mines sold for $2.00 per foot, or at the rate of $2000 per thousand feet, and at Sacramento City it sold at six hundred dollars per thousand.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Other necessaries sold at equally as high prices in proportion.  Such seemingly exorbitant prices seemed at first to the newly arrived immigrant as if he was being robbed.  It seemed far different to those that have been here a few weeks.  In buying provisions or other necesaries they do not appear to think any more about paying the California prices than they would the customary prices when at their homes.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This at present is a fast country, and money must be made fast or the miners could not make a comfortable livelihood, having to pay such prices.  It is said that in case a person is taken sick here and employs a physician, that the M. D. will size his "pile," whether large or small.  Probably this was not strictly true in all cases, but in many cases they collected very exorbitant fees.  It was also a prevailing opinion among the miners that many of the physicians now in the country do not understand the prevailing diseases of the country; and that many of them are the cause of more sickness and death than they are the means of saving lives.  How far this is true I will not undertake to determine; but from what I saw at this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>It seemed to require but two things only to kill the strongest man in California, however slight the disease might at first be.  First, to apply for a doctor; and second, to lose his courage and believe he would soon die, and that he would never see his home and friends again.  With this combination I never knew the first man to recover under similar circumstances, in the early days of California.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The population of the country at this time was a heterogeneous mass from almost all parts of the civilized world.  New England is well represented.  The majority of the Yankees came by the way of Cape Horn; some across the Isthmus of Panama, and a few across the country.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Missouri probably had more immigrants in California, by far, than any other state, and for some reason which is not easy to explain, they were not so popular as those from most other states. They were popularly known by others as "Pukes."  Illinois, Indiana, Wisconsin and Iowa all sent large numbers.  New York sent a large delegation, the larger part by water.  rom the southern slaveholding states there were but comparatively few.</P>
160.sgm:<P>England, France, Germany and Ireland were all quite largely represented.  Also Sidney, New South Wales, which had formerly been England's penal colony for many years.  Very large numbers came from this colony, a great majority of them being former convicts.  These were by far the worst class of people then in California.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>All classes of people were here--mechanics, clerks, men of all professions mingled together to make up the population.  Here were doctors and lawyers hard at work in the mines, clerks who had never before performed a day's work of manual labor, with a red flannel shirt on, their sleeves rolled up, armed with a pick and shovel, digging their fortunes from the banks and bars of the rivers.  Ministers of the Gospel seeking wild speculations, and a few of them seated behind a table dealing "Monte," or some other game of chance.  Sailors and soldiers also formed a considerable percentage of the mining population, and seemed to be just as independent as a member of Congress, and were probably making, many of them, larger pay.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On Friday, October 19, The Granite State and California Mining and Trading Company, about which there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Some went to Sacramento City; some to Feather River mines; and some in other directions, each for himself, and no longer trammeled by the restrictions of a joint stock company.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Pelham folks moved up to Long's Bar on Feather River, some five or six miles from the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains.  At this place there was a small town consisting of a few stores and quite a large number of mining camps.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A few of the miners had tents, some had brush shanties, and many more with nothing for a shelter but the trees.  At night there was no necessity for shelter, the weather being clear and dry without a particle of dew to moisten the earth.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Here the miners were at work along the banks of the river, some digging in the crevices of the rocks and washing the pay dirt in a pan, while others were taking their dirt from the banks in larger quantities and washing it in cradles made for that purpose.  The country about this place is hilly and is covered with a growth of several species of oak.  The Live Oak is an evergreen and is scrubby and small.  The White Oak is of a larger size, but is low and branching.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The land here is not very heavily timbered, much of it being "Oak Openings."  The soil is red.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some of the Pelham folks that came with us thought perhaps it would be wise and profitable to form a company and send to Sacramento City for their winter provisions; and accordingly the writings were drawn up and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The company immediately dispatched two of its men with mules to Sacramento to procure provisions and other necessary articles, in readiness for the rainy season which was expected within a month.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I was the owner of one mule which I forwarded to Sacramento by those men for sale for whatever price it might sell for.  I received in return $62.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On Sunday, October 21, S. W. Gage and Austin W. Pinney concluded they would leave the new company, and they with myself traveled up the river 8 miles to Bidwell's Bar, another mining camp, where we agreed to commence work the next morning on a dam for a company at $6 per day each, board included.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On Monday morning we shouldered our blankets and walked to Bidwell's in season to perform three-fourths of a day's work.  We also labored Tuesday and Wednesday.</P>
160.sgm:<P>As this was the first real manual labor performed by us for many months, and the weather being excessively warm and the work we were required to perform very laborious, it was not an easy matter for us to put in the time.  We were just in from the mountains where the atmosphere was cool and bracing, and the locality here was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The company for which we were at work consisted of about twenty members, who were at work with us.  They were in haste to complete the dam before the rainy season should set in; consequently they worked more hours in a day than they otherwise would have done.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We were obliged to carry large rocks and loads of gravel, cobble stones, etc., from the shore to the dam on hand barrows, which was called by us "soul carting."  After we had worked two and three-fourths days, Mr. Gage thought he could not endure it any longer, so we concluded to quit and commence mining on our own account and be independent.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Consequently we bought an old "cradle" for $50, two tin pans for $8, a pick and shovel, and commenced operations.  Our cooking apparatus consisted of one tin kettle for which we paid $4, a fry pan, a few knives and forks, three or four tin plates, some tin cups and a coffee pot, which we inherited from the old company.</P>
160.sgm:<P>For a shelter we had the broad canopy of heaven; and for a bed dry sand.</P>
160.sgm:<P>To us the mines presented a novel and interesting appearance.  There were at this time no less than seventy-five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The cradles were set along at the water's edge.  The dirt was carried from the bank to the water in tin pans and poured into the upper part of the machine--or that part called the screen.  This was a box about 15 inches square, with a sheet iron bottom perforated with holes about one-half inch in diameter.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A pan full of pay dirt was dug and turned into the screen and water poured upon it freely, while the cradle was rocked vigorously.  This separated the coarse gravel and small stones from the sand, which passed to the bottom of the machine and was carried away by the water, while the gold being much heavier than the sand and gravel, was left at the bottom of the cradle.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The cradles were from three to four feet in length, with two or three bars across the bottom.  The miners at this place were making from $10 to $30 a day, and a great majority were immigrants that had just come in over the country, and consequently were new hands at mining, each learning by experience the knack of separating the gold from the sand as best he could.  We had endeavored to gain some information in regard to the process before we commenced here, but had not succeed farther than what knowledge we could acquire by watching others do the work, and imitating the process as far as possible.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Everything in the mines is quiet, and although traders and others leave large quantities of gold dust entirely exposed, there is said to be almost no thefts committed.  Many of the traders are also miners, and very many have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I have seen quantities of several thousand dollars worth of gold dust lying in full sight, while the owner at the same time would be away at work at the river, a quarter or a half mile away.</P>
160.sgm:<P>If a person is so unfortunate as to be taken seriously sick here it seems almost an impossibility for him to recover and regain his former strength.  This probably is owing much more to the manner of living, and to the poor quality of food, than to the climate.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Scurvy is very prevalent among the land immigrants, and in this country at this time is one of the most serious diseases we have among us.  To cure the scurvy requires a vegetable diet, which cannot be had at any price in the mines at the present time.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The flour is almost all musty, having been shipped around Cape Horn in the hold of a vessel; pork is rusty, as it is called, some of it nearly spoiled.  Flour and pork are the two principal articles of diet.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Sometimes beef can be had and that is of the best quality.  California beef is just as good as any.  Physician's charges are exorbitant, fifty or a hundred dollars not being considered at all high for a professional visit.  This is certainly a very hard country for a sick man.  It is often said that if a man is taken sick here that he is no better than dead.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There are some cases of recovery, however.  Many die of scurvy, of fevers of different kinds, and other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>For the last two or three weeks before entering the valley, we had cool weather with frosty nights, being in the mountains at a high altitude, but here, although the nights are cool and very pleasant, the days are so very warm that the thermometer stands at 100&deg; in the shade.  Many whose food was largely salted provisions during the journey across the plains from Missouri to Sacramento valley, got their systems impregnated with salt and grease, and so became easy victims to the scurvey.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The miners generally appear to be in excellent spirits, and seem to enjoy life as well as the circumstances of their conditions will admit.  A few of them have tents, some have brush shanties, but by far the larger portion camp in the open air, or under friendly trees, where they have a good opportunity to study astronomy after they lie down, by watching the moon and the stars.  It is said by many, and it seems to be true, that for the moon to shine in a persons face while sleeping, is very injurious to the eyes.  I have known some cases where persons have become almost blind, with no other good reason assigned.  I believe it to be a safe plan for all persons who are accustomed to sleeping in the open air to always shade their face from the moon.  From my own experience, I believe I have suffered with my eyes to a considerable degree from that cause.  A person's eyes seem to become injured to a considerable extent before they are aware that anything wrong is taking place.  What power, if any, the lunar rays have upon the human eye I am unprepared to explain.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The miners principally do their own cooking, and washing, if they have any done.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Their living is most commonly fried pork and flapjacks, or <HI REND="italics">flippers</HI>
160.sgm:<P>On Thursday, October 26, 1849, we commenced mining and set our cradle on the lower point of Bidwell's Bar, where we kept it running through the day, with the exception of a short time at noon.</P>
160.sgm:<P>As new miners we thought that the more and faster we washed the dirt, the more gold dust we should have to our credit at night, and consequently we kept the screen full all day and crowded it through as fast at it was possible.  When night came we took it out of the cradle into a pan and tried to separate the black sand from the gold dust.  But for us that was the most difficult operation of the whole process.</P>
160.sgm:<P>When we commenced we had nearly a pailful of the sand, and after a time we had succeeded in reducing it very materially in quantity, but could not separate the gold entirely from the sand, and consequently we were unable to ascertain the amount of gold that we had acquired for our day's work.  However, we concluded that we were not doing as well as we desired and decided to look up another claim.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Our claim was at the extreme point of the Bar and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MINING SCENE.  From an Old Print.</P>
160.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The next morning we found a claim a short distance below on the opposite side of the river that had been worked for a considerable distance into the bank.  There was an old rocker in the hole that was made from a tree, it having been dug out.  Probably this was left here for the purpose of holding the claim if that should be desirable.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We learned that the men who had been working the claim had gone up the river and were engaged in building a log cabin.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We thought they were not entitled to hold a claim here and one in the mountains at the same time, so we moved the old machine out the hole where it would not trouble us and went to work.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We worked five days before we separated the gold from the black sand and did not know how well we were doing, but on making the separation we found we had averaged very nearly one ounce each per day, with which we were fairly well satisfied as a beginning.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Could we have continued indefinitely to make as good pay, it would have been better than we had dared to hope.  The weather continued warm and dry until Tuesday, October 30, when it became cloudy and presented a very strong appearance of rain.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It did not storm, however, before night, when the rain began to descend and it continued to fall nearly all night.  This was not very agreeable to us as we were sleeping without shelter on the ground, which soon began to grow damp and cold.  Our situation was no worse than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Very few of the miners had any shelter and the best equipped had nothing but tents.  A few days previous we had been warned by an old Californian that when the rainy season should begin the rain would descend in torrents.  He said the miners were sure to be caught in a bad and unfortunate situation.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The first shower of the rainy season might be expected to continue for about four weeks.  We afterwards learned to our sorrow that his statement was nearly correct.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The rain commenced on the evening of the 30th day of October, and until November 21st it rained more or less 19 days out of the 23.  The greater part of the time it was so very wet that it was useless to undertake to work.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The river was swollen to such an extent that the bars along its shores were covered with water and could not be worked.  The natural roads down the valley to Sacramento City became so very soft and muddy that pack mules could not travel them with packs, and provisions were boated up the river as far as possible, and then carried upon the miners' backs.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The limited stock of provisions in the mines at the beginning of the rainy season was soon exhausted, and consequently food soon became very scarce and extremely high.  Flour advanced from 40 cents to $1.50 per pound, and much of it that was sold at that exorbitant price was so badly hurt that it required the use of a hatchet to cut it in pieces to remove it from the barrel.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>When the rainy season commenced a great number began to prepare some protection or shelter.  Some built themselves small cloth or canvas tents, others constructed small log huts, while a few dug holes in the ground and covered them over Indian fashion.  Not a few left the mines for the city, where provisions could be had at a lower price.  Gage, Pinney and myself, when the rains commenced, procured a shelter in a large tent that belonged to some New Yorkers, and which stood near where we had been camping.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We paid two dollars each per week for the privilege of sleeping in the tent, and found our own blankets, and we considered ourselves very fortunate in obtaining so good a shelter.</P>
160.sgm:<P>About the 10th of November, Mr. Gage being somewhat indisposed, left us and went down and joined the Pelham company, about two miles above Long's Bar.  They were engaged in building a log cabin and making other preparations for the long rainy season.  Pinney and myself bought a claim in the bank of the river, for which we paid $40.  It had formerly been quite productive, but had been worked back into the bank considerably.  We found it to be very little, if any better, than our old claim where we began mining.</P>
160.sgm:<P>From the 30th of October to the 21st of November we labored as much as the state of the weather and the high stage of the water would admit, but owing to the large proportion of rainy weather and the many other discouragements under which we labored, and also to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Here we tried to procure something for supper, but all that could be bought in the line of provisions of any kind was some raw venison.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We started a fire under a tree and roasted our meat on a forked stick, and ate it without salt.  This we found quite dry and not the best of living, but it was the best, and all, that our money would buy, consequently we were compelled to make the best of it.  We slept under a large oak tree, and in the morning roasted and ate some more of our venison, after which we proceeded on our way down the valley.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After traveling about ten miles we came to the ranch of Charles H. Burch, where we found a boat ready to leave for Sacramento City early the next morning, and we concluded to engage a passage for that place.  However, upon making application, we learned that the seats were all engaged.  The boat was owned by Mr. Burch and was only a whaleboat which would seat about twenty persons.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Thomas D. Bonner was captain.  Captain Bonner was formerly president of the New Hampshire Temperance Society, but had resided in Massachusetts.  Some time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>After learning that we could not procure passage aboard the boat, we thought we would construct a raft on which we could float to Sacramento at our leisure.</P>
160.sgm:<P>However, we could not find any suitable timber with which to build a raft, and further, Mr. Burch said he was well acquainted with the river between here and Sacramento, and that he should advise no person to attempt to make the passage on a raft--that by doing so they most probably would lose their lives, unless they were good swimmers.  He had known of two or three parties that had attempted it, but all were shipwrecked and lost all they had with them.  He said the river was full of snags and sand bars, and that it was as much as he could do to pilot a good boat through safely.</P>
160.sgm:<P>His graphic account of the river below exploded our calculations in regard to attempting a passage by raft to the city.  At this time it was almost impossible to travel to Sacramento by land, the road being very muddy with numerous slough crossings, which were full of water with neither bridges nor ferries.  At some places the Sacramento had already overflowed its low bottom lands.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Burch was an old Californian who came to Oregon by way of the overland route in 1842 or 1843.  He remained in that territory two or three years, when he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>He had taken a claim on the bank of Feather River, upon which he was intending to construct a house the following winter.  He made a proposition to give us employment until he should complete his house at a salary of $4.50 each per day and board.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This, considering the high prices of provisions, and the large proportion of wet weather, was as well as we would be likely to do at that time, and consequently we agreed to work for him until such time as we could do better, or as long a time as we all should be satisfied.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Burch contemplated the construction of a house by putting hewn posts into the ground and nailing on to them weather boards which were riven from oak logs.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A house of this kind would not answer a very good purpose in a cold climate, but was tight enough to be free from leakage and would be a very good shelter for California.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This point was about twenty miles above the junction of the Feather and Yuba rivers, and 80 or 90 miles above the mouth of the Feather, where it intersects the Sacramento River.  The surrounding country was nearly level, and was covered with a growth of large, scattering, branching oak trees.  The soil was of a sandy nature, and was not as fertile as it was in some other localities.  Some of the oak trees were very large but were low and branching.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>I measured one that was eleven feet in diameter near the ground--"a sturdy old oak" surely, that had stood the storms, the winds and the fires of many centuries.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A little farther away from the river the soil was more of a clayey nature and there was considerable live oak growth.  Some of the soil was red--a kind of red clay--and seemed to New Hampshire people as being almost worthless for cultivation.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The live oak was small and scrubby, an evergreen almost worthless for timber.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The white oak produces large quantities of acorns which made good, nourishing food for swine.  Fremont, I believe, stated that he had seen acorns grown from a single tree to cover the ground under its branches four inches in thickness.  This I believe to be an exaggeration in keeping with many others made by that illustrious pathfinder.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Pinney and myself commenced work for Mr. C. H. Burch on Monday, November 26.  A few days later, James M. Butler, one of our party of Pelham boys, came down from the mines in search of employment, and engaged himself to work for Mr. Burch, commencing to work with us at a uniform salary.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Robert Thom, another of our Pelham friends, was at this time working for his board about one mile up the valley from the Burch ranch at a place known as the "Hole in the Ground."  This resort derived its name from the fact that it was a mere hole excavated in the ground and covered with mud, etc., so as to shed the rain.  It was owned by a fellow known as "Ned," and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Thom was expected to get and prepare wood, cook, and do other work.  We went up to visit him one evening and gave him an invitation to go to work with us at $4.50, as Mr. Burch desired to employ one more man, for a few weeks at least.</P>
160.sgm:<P>To this proposition Robert replied, that in all probability Mr. Burch would not have work for a man much more than one month, and in case he should begin work for him, he was afraid he would lose his place with Ned.  He said his labor was not very hard and he thought he would remain for the present and make sure of his board.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It seemed to me that if a man was afraid of losing his place when he was at work for his board only in California, he certainly could have very little ambition.  I thought he had better have remained at home with his family, and saved the long and tedious journey across the plains; but he was firm and decided and remained there until spring.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Burch desired to contract a ditch to be dug to enclose a field containing ten acres on the river bank, and Pinney contracted to do the work at the price of two dollars per rod, with the understanding that Mr. Burch should board him, and that the ditch should be four feet deep and four feet wide at the top and twenty inches wide at the bottom, and that it was not to be commenced until we had finished the other job.  About 120 rods of ditch were to be dug.  After Pinney had made the contract to dig the ditch he thought the price was too low <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>After working for Mr. Burch about three weeks, he asked us to go to Sacramento with his boat after a load of provisions, for which he agreed to pay us five dollars per day each.</P>
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160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>ADVENTURES BY FLOOD.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We started down the river on the 22nd of December.  Our crew consisted of Thomas D. Bonner, captain, Austin W. Pinney and myself.  We carried down two or three passengers.  The river being very much swollen by the recent heavy rains, we went down the river as far as Fremont the first day.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Fremont is a small town named for the "Pathfinder" and is situated on the west bank of the Sacramento River at its junction with Feather River.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We remained at Fremont until the morning of the 23rd, when we again started and reached Sacramento City before night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>By the way of the crooked river it is about 150 miles from the Burch ranch to the "cloth city," as it was then called.  Pinney was employed by Mr. Burch as clerk to purchase the goods, and consequently I had very little to do while at Sacramento.  We remained at the city during Monday and Tuesday.  Pinney in the meantime made his purchases, and on Wednesday we were prepared to start for Feather River with our cargo of stores and provisions, liquors, etc.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Sacramento City at this time was built principally of cloth houses and tents.  However, there were a few very fair framed buildings and numerous smaller shanties.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>It was generally known as the "Rag City," which was an appropriate name indeed.  Almost all the better class of buildings in the city were occupied as gambling places, drinking saloons, or something equally as bad.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Sacramento City is situated at the junction of the Sacramento and American Rivers, and near Sutter's old fort, on land originally granted to Captain Sutter by the Mexican government.  The location of the city is low and subject to inundations at extreme high water.  Large steam vessels ply between this city and San Francisco.  The fare is from thirty to forty dollars.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Sacramento City is at the head of ship navigation on the Sacramento, but small vessels can go above.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1849 this place began to be boomed as a city and now it contains several thousand inhabitants, and is a smart business place.  Everything here is life and bustle, where fortunes are made in a day and are lost as quickly.  A large amount of sickness prevails at the present time.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Dr. Haines and C. S. Fifield, who left us on Raft River, are both in the city at the present time.  Fifield has a paint shop and is doing a good business.  Dr. Haines has a small hospital for the sick and seems to be doing a considerable business and says he is making money.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Woodbury, who was a member of the Granite State Company from New Hampshire, is with Dr. Haines, and is very sick.  He was taken with the diarrhoea soon after he entered the valley and has since continually been growing worse.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>He knew me very readily when I entered his room, and taking me by the hand, said with tears in his eyes, that he should never again see his home or his friends.  I tried in vain to cheer him, telling him that there still was hope for his recovery, but it was all of no avail.  He said he should live but a few days, and his prediction proved too true.  Poor fellow!  A wife and family in New Hampshire waited in vain for his return home.</P>
160.sgm:<P>While in Sacramento I also saw a Mr. A. Webster, with whom I became acquainted before I left Hudson.  He was sick with the scurvy, and unable to perform any labor.  He was selling cakes on the levee.  I thought that his existence, too, would soon terminate, but I never after heard from him.  Probably he sleeps, with the many thousands of gold hunters, on the banks of the Sacramento--the sleep that knows no waking.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Instances of a similar description are almost daily met with in California.  Men who left their homes and friends in the East to take their chances in the mines, if possible, to gain a few paltry dollars in the New Eldorado, are stricken by disease, and death soon ends their earthly career.  It seems truly hard to die in California among strangers, with no friends near to sympathize and in some small degree, alleviate the pains of their dying moments.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On Wednesday, December 26, we left Sacramento City and started on our journey for Feather River.  Our boat was loaded down with provisions, liquors and other articles.  Thomas D. Bonner was captain, A. W. Pinney and myself constituted the crew, and we had two passengers aboard--a North Carolinian by the name of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The North Carolina man seemed to be somewhat bigoted and wanted the best accommodations the boat afforded, and while we were making our way up the river he never offered to pull an oar or do anything to assist us in the least, but always kept the best seat aboard the boat dry from morning until night by sitting upon it steadily with an India rubber blanket over him when it rained, which was a considerable part of the time.  This did not appeal to me as being the proper manner for him "to work his passage" up the river, as the stream was high with a rapid current.  With a heavily loaded boat it was quite difficult for two men to make any progress with their oars against the strong current.  As Captain Bonner failed to remind Mr. Stedman about his agreement to work his passage up the river, I thought I would take the risk to jog his memory in relation to it.  The result was instantaneous and Mr. Stedman and I had a falling out immediately.  He was quite excited and seemed to be on the point of exploson.  I certainly anticipated an immediate challenge from Mr. Stedman to meet him in deadly combat and settle the matter Southern fashion.  But for some unknown cause he suffered me to continue to live.  Had a challenge been forthcoming I cannot now say what the outcome would have been.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Sacramento was very high, almost at full banks, and having had a head wind, we made very slow progress.  At some points along the river the banks were overflown and the valley for miles in extent back from the river was one wide sheet of water, extending as far as the eye <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Pinney and myself pulled the boat up the river against the wind and current, Captain Bonner sitting in the stern and steering her, while Mr. Stedman and the doctor made themselves as comfortable as was possible under the circumstances.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We had three barrels of liquors, brandy and whiskey, aboard and soon after we began to ascend the river, Captain Bonner, president of the New Hampshire Temperance society, and late a noted temperance lecturer, notwithstanding, tapped one of the whiskey barrels and commenced drinking the contents.  This movement on his part somewhat surprised me, although I had began to learn not to be easily surprised at the acts of men in California.  But I had heard Captain Bonner say much in favor of temperance and I supposed he would be among the last to taste of whiskey.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At first he drank a little, and after a short time he took a little more, and he continued to take a little quite often and said he could not live in California without it.  He said that he had once been a hard drinker, and I was afraid that he was in great danger of falling into his former evil practices.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He argued that it was impossible for him to live without it in California.  It had once saved his life, but that if he should return to his home in the East, he would again be as strong an advocate of temperance as formerly.  How this proved I cannot say, but while I knew <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>To pull the heavily loaded boat against the current we found to be very hard work and the progress was quite slow.  We had made our way up the Sacramento a considerable distance, when one day, owing to the head wind being so very strong, we could make little or no headway; we were compelled to tie up and remain nearly the whole day.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This was at a point where several choppers were at work cutting wood for the Sacramento market.  They were paid eight dollars per cord for cutting it and were not required to split it.  This I thought would be a good job, and that if Mr. Pinney would hire another man in my place to help pull the boat up the river, I would stay and cut wood for a while.  I promised Mr. Burch my wages for the time I had been on the trip, thinking he could find no fault with that arrangement.  Mr. Pinney thought I was under obligation to him to help dig the ditch for Mr. Burch and said that if I stopped here he should do the same.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I knew that such an arrangement would not be fair treatment to Mr. Burch.  Mr. Pinney had a settlement to make with him in regard to the purchases made and the funds remaining in his hands.  He also had contracted to excavate about 120 rods of ditch.  I had consented to dig a part of it and would not refuse to do it without his full consent.  Still I thought he might release me.  Under the circumstances I continued to go up the river with the boat.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>On the 5th day of January, 1850, we reached a point on the river about twelve miles below Burch's ranch, where we were met by Mr. Burch, who concluded to go with us up the river in the boat.  Our passengers left us here and started on foot toward the mines.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After meeting Mr. Burch we proceeded toward our destination and on the night of January 7th reached a point not more than one and one-half miles below Burch's.  Two or three days previous we had fallen in with another boat and party bound up the river, laden with provisions, owned and manned by some men from the Pine Tree state.  They were two brothers by the name of Frye, Jack Percy, and a man working for them.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On the night of the 7th we all camped on the bank of the river almost within sight of home--"Our California Home"--but on the opposite side of the river.  The night was dark and stormy and the rain descended in torrents, with the wind blowing almost a gale from the south.  After several fruitless attempts we succeeded in starting a fire, by which we cooked some pork and flapjacks.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On the morning of January 8th it still rained as hard as on the night previous.  We started on our journey as early as it became sufficiently light to see how to arrange our camp fixtures properly.  We did not even remain to prepare any breakfast, but started with the expectation of reaching Burch's ranch before noon.  We were not long in reaching the foot of the rapids in company with the Maine boat.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We had aboard a long rope and we concluded it would be the better plan for all hands to pull one boat up by the willow brush that grew along the water's edge a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SACRAMENTO CITY IN 1850.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>The river being high and there being a strong head wind blowing for us to contend with, together with the fall in the stream at this place, we found it to be a slow and very tedious process to pull a heavily loaded boat up the river by the willows that skirted the shore.  We would first pull up one boat a rope's length, and then draw the other boat after it, and thus we labored incessantly until at length we succeeded in getting both boats near the head of the rapids, when by some unfortunate mishap, the boat got into the stream beyond the reach of the willows, and before we could recover we were again at the foot of the rapids and the other boat was also with us.  To pull her up again was the hard labor of two or three hours, but it seemed to be the only practical plan that we could pursue.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Consequently, we all worked with a will and at length succeeded in pulling her up the second time, arriving at a point a little higher up the stream than we reached at the first time.  We were pulling the other boat up after us by the rope and holding our boat to the brush, when suddenly the brush gave way and very soon both boats were again at the foot of the rapids.</P>
160.sgm:<P>These repeated accidents and disappointments, considering all the existing circumstances and conditions, were anything but comforting to our empty stomachs and wet backs.  It was now getting toward the end of the day and we had tasted no food since the night previous.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The rain had descended in torrents all day and we were cold and wet, but to pull the boat again to the head of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Consequently, we once more, for the third time, worked our way by the brush to the head of the long rapids, and just as it was becoming dark we had succeeded in bringing both boats to the head of the rapids for the third time.  Just at that point of the river there was a short bend in the stream so that we would get the benefit of a fair wind from that point up.  Pinney was in the bow of the boat holding to the brush, Captain Bonner and Burch were near the stern arranging to get under weigh, and I was hoisting the sail.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Burch said: "Be sure to hold fast this time, Pinney."  But for the moment the latter seemed absent-minded and before I had the sail raised he released his hold upon the brush and seized the foot of the mast to enter it into its place.  Instantly we were again beyond the reach of the brush, and very quickly were again at the foot of the rapids!  Our companion boat continued up the river without trouble, so far as we knew.</P>
160.sgm:<P>To work our way up again to the head of the rapids that night seemed to be an impossibility.  It had become extremely dark.  The rain continued to descend copiously, as it had done continuously for more than twenty-four hours.  The river was so full of snags that to make the attempt to cross it in the dark was to hazard our lives.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We were on the opposite side from Mr. Burch's ranch, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Accordingly, we pulled our boat as far into the willows as it were possible, and I, being at the bow, chained the boat to a small tree.  I thought it was probable that considering the large quantity of rain that had fallen the stream would continue to rise some during the night, and to guard against accidents I chained the boat about three feet above the water and gave it about twelve feet of spare chain.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The small willows were extremely dense, and in making an attempt to reach the shore, I found the water at the bow of the boat was five feet deep.  As we had no dry matches and there was no possibility of procuring any fire, we concluded our condition would probably be nearly or quite as comfortable aboard the boat during the night, as it would be if we could succeed in reaching the bank.  Consequently, we concluded to remain on board, though we had nothing cooked that we could eat and we were cold and wet.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The rain was still descending and I believe that in all my life I never laid down to a night's lodging with so small a prospect of the enjoyment of a moment's comfortable rest and repose as on that night.  The rain, although it was from the south, was cold, and each one of us shivered so badly that the boat fairly quivered from stem to stern!</P>
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160.sgm:<P>I covered my head and after enduring the situation for some hours, fell into a broken, dreamy slumber, from which I was suddenly awakened with the cold water rushing over me.  I jumped to my feet immediately and simultaneously with the whole crew.  But we had no sooner gained our feet than the boat went under, sending us all with our load of freight into the river!  The boat immediately after came to the surface with its keel upward.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The first thought that occurred to me was to immediately strike out and swim to the shore, but my second thought was to get upon the bottom of the boat and get, if possible, a survey of my situation.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Consequently I pulled myself up upon the upturned boat.  At about that time Mr. Burch cried out: "For God's sake pull me up or I shall drown."  I took him by the hand and drew him up.  He said he could not swim a single stroke.  Captain Bonner, who had sometime been a sailor, attempted to swim.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He wore his "sou-wester," a canvas hat painted white.  In the darkness I could just trace the white hat as it slowly moved along the surface of the water, but it soon disappeared from sight and then it reappeared.  It almost immediately disappeared the second time when I reached for one of the oars that was within sight to try and reach him, if possible.  Again he came to the surface and climbed up a small tree that was standing in the water near the upturned boat.  He climbed as far up the tree as he could, it being the top of a small willow.  His feet were about four feet above the surface of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>To all appearance our position since we chained the boat to a tree the night previous had been transformed.  The rain had ceased to pour, clouds were beginning to become broken, and the darkness was not so dense.  We could dimly discern on our side the waters of the river rushing swiftly past, gurgling and whirling, carrying along with them large masses of flood wood, intermixed with immense logs and whole trees, while on the other hand we could discover small trees and brush rising above the surface of the water, and still a little farther in the distance was a large growth of cottonwood trees.  The latter were probably some twelve or fifteen rods distant to the east of our position.  We could see no land.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The question of what was the immediate cause of this severe accident soon began to be discussed among the party.  Mr. Burch made the inquiry who it was that chained the boat.  I answered that it was I who chained it.  He thought that it was not fastened sufficiently secure and that it probably came unhooked, floated down the river and in some way became capsized.  The same opinion at first seemed to be entertained by the majority of the party.  However, I knew it had been faithfully secured and that it was almost an impossibility for it to have become loosened.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It occurred to me that the boat was still chained to the willow tree as we had left it when we had laid down, and that the river had risen to such a height that the bow of the boat had been drawn beneath the surface and it naturally capsized.  This seemed almost an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>After I had considered the matter as to the safest and best course to pursue, I concluded to stay by the wreck as long as it seemed possible, and the entire crew seemed to be of the same mind.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We soon began crying for help at the top of our voices, but at the same time we were without the slightest hope or expectation that anyone could render us any assistance on that night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>First one would cry aloud for a few moments and then another would take it up for a time, and thus it would go around through the whole list.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The day previous Captain Bonner had a two-quart jug aboard which he had drawn nearly full of whiskey for his own private use, and when he discovered the "little brown jug" resting against the tree beneath his feet, he was very much pleased.  He soon recovered it and after taking a drink from it, passed it around.  It was about one-half full when recovered and it went around at intervals the remainder of the night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We were compelled to sit in the cold water nearly to our waists, from the time of the accident until daylight, and it was not anything like a comfortable position.  As near as we were able to judge, the boat upset about one o'clock.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Occasionally we heard a voice in reply to ours, but no one came to our assitance until it became daylight, when an Italian came in sight around the bend in the river in a small zinc boat and took us ashore.  Captain Bonner had nearly perished.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Before we were rescued the water had reached to his waist, as he stood upon the tree, and he could ascend no higher.  Mr. Burch and Captain Bonner both said that they never expected to see another day, and they would have it no other way from the moment of the accident until the rescue.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Burch stated and several times repeated it, that he would willingly give all he possessed in the world to be set on shore.  I made the reply that I would pay fifty dollars to any one to put me ashore safely, but that was the extent I would give.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After getting ashore I found my limbs so benumbed that it was with great difficulty that I could walk a step.</P>
160.sgm:<P>About ten o'clock we partook of a little breakfast that had been prepared for us, it being the first of anything we had eaten for upward of forty hours.  On an investigation a little later we found the river had risen about twenty-five feet during the night, occasioned from the heavy rains together with the melting of large bodies of snow in the Sierra Nevada mountains.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After two days' rest we all felt nearly or quite as well as if nothing had befallen us, and strange as it may seem, not one of the party even caught the slightest cold from all the exposure.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The night of the 8th of January, 1850, will probably be long remembered by all of this little party of four men.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At that time the great freshet and overflow at Sacramento City was experienced, which destroyed an enormous amount of property and caused so great an amount <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPER VII.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>LIFE IN THE MINES.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After a lapse of 44 years--January, 1894--I resumed this narrative.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The foregoing was written not long after the events therein written had transpired, from notes taken from day to day.  All those events were then fresh in my memory.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Such notes as I took subsequent to the 9th of January, 1850, while I remained in California, and later while I was in Oregon, were not so copious and full, and what I may hereafter write in relation to my experiences in those states (then territories) for the next four years and more will be drawn from these scanty notes, with the assistance of a very retentive memory.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At the date of the sad experience with the boat on the Feather River, January 9, 1850, I was a young man of a little more than twenty-one years of age; while at this time I am more than sixty-five, yet my memory is still quite fresh in regard to many of those events that transpired in those times, while I doubt not that many others of equal interest may have been forgotten altogether; or I may retain only a partial or faint recollection of them at this time.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In consequence of this, whatever I may write in the following pages will be such only as I distinctly remember, and they will be a few of the leading incidents <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>After a rest of two days from January 9, 1850, the time of the accident with the boat, we again resumed work with Mr. Burch, and soon after commenced the excavation of the ditch, which was for the purpose of a fence on three sides of a field of ten acres, Feather River to form the boundary on the remaining side.  The land was sandy and free from stones, and the shoveling excellent.  We made a very good job, as by hard work we could each excavate four or five rods a day.  The weather at this time was pleasant.  The rainy season had not entirely passed, but February was a fine month and very agreeable.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After the ditch was completed, as Mr. Burch had no more work for us, we traveled down the river to Yuba City, a small, new village on the west bank of the Feather River, opposite the mouth of the Yuba River.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At that time Marysville, situated on the other side of Feather River and a short distance up the Yuba, was composed of very few buildings, with the exception of Nye's ranch, which was one of the old California adobe ranches.  This was substantially at the head of steam navigation on Feather River, and there was quite a rivalry between the two "cities"--each trying to become <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
160.sgm:<P>Yuba City had the first beginning, but Marysville later outrivaled her and became the more important place.  At this time two or three small steamers plied between Sacramento, Yuba City and Marysville.  The largest of these was a flat-bottomed boat of considerable size, which, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Green oak wood was used for fuel to operate the steamboat, and as there was quite a number of men present, members and stockholders of the company, a small board shanty was erected a short distance below Yuba City for the accommodation of the choppers who undertook to cut the fuel for the steamer from the oaks that grew near by.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The majority of these men were young and were entirely unused to such hard manual labor as chopping, and the outcome was that eight or ten of them could not, or did not, cut a sufficient amount of wood to supply the boat with fuel.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Shortly after our arrival at Yuba City, I met the agent of the steamboat company and made an agreement with him to cut 100 cords of wood at $6.50 per cord.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The wood was to be cut three feet in length and split, but no deduction was to be made on account of its short length.  I informed Pinney and Butler of the contract I had entered into, and of course they expected to take part in the job.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Pinney was a native of Vermont, and cutting cord wood had been his principal work for many years.</P>
160.sgm:<P>For several years previous to his immigration to California he had resided in Pelham, and had cut wood for about nine months in each year, being engaged at haying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Pinney made the remark that in all probability he would cut as much wood as Mr. Butler and myself together.  I made the reply, that if he should cut twice as much wood as I did, I would leave the job.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A ferry spanned the river from this place to the Marysville side, and the fare for foot passengers was fifty cents each way.</P>
160.sgm:<P>No axes were on sale in Yuba City, and Mr. Pinney was selected to go to Marysville and purchase three chopping axes.  In due time he returned with the axes--three being the entire stock found in the market in Marysville.</P>
160.sgm:<P>As I remember, the price paid was ten dollars each, without helves.  One of them was about the ordinary size and weight for a chopping axe, while another was a large, heavy one, and the third light and small like a boy's axe.  Mr. Pinney selected the one of medium size for himself, and said that Mr. Butler and I could make such arrangements as we should choose in regard to the other two.  I gave Mr. Butler his choice and he took the heavy one.  We made arrangements with a man by the name of Galushia, who had a tent, to supply us with board at the price of two dollars per day.  He did the cooking over a fire outside the tent.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We each made a helve and hung the axes and began chopping.  The wood was the white oak species and was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The first of my work at chopping caused my hands to blister badly.  It was late in the forenoon when I commenced, and when it became night I felt an anxiety to know about how much I had succeeded in cutting.  I piled and measured it, when I found I had cut in the short day, one and one-quarter cords, or had earned over eight dollars.</P>
160.sgm:<P>By the agreement made we were not required to pile the wood, but the company was to have it drawn out and piled on the bank of the river, where it could be measured.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We were not a long time in completing the contract of cutting one hundred cords, and we made another contract to cut another hundred cords.  Each of us had our wood kept separate and piled by itself.  Some days, when I was fortunate in the selection of a good tree, I would cut as much as four cords; while on some other days, when I had a bad tree, I would not cut more than two cords.  The first week or ten days of chopping caused my hands to become very sore, so much so that the helve of the axe would be covered with blood when they came in contact with it.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MARCH 1, 1850.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>After having worked at chopping about one month and having had our wood drawn out and measured, it was found I had cut almost two-thirds as much as had Mr. Pinney, and Mr. Butler had cut about one-half as much.</P>
160.sgm:<P>As spring was approaching and as gold mining was our chief object and uppermost in our minds as a means by which to make a fortune in California, we thought the time was near at hand when we should select a mining claim for the coming summer.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At that time it was almost the universal opinion among the miners of California that the beds of the rivers and large streams must be very rich with gold dust.  That to turn the water from its natural channel so as to be able to work out the gravel from the bed of the stream, a quick fortune was almost sure to result.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The mines had been worked for a comparatively short time, and this plan had not been tested in only a few instances.  The theory was that as gold was found in greater or lesser quantities along the shores of nearly all the streams, in almost every bar, and in paying quantities in a great number of them, if the river bed could be worked there would be necessarily large deposits of the yellow metal, as owing to its great specific gravity it would naturally seek the lowest levels and there remain.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The rivers in the mountains were a succession of falls and rapids, and at many such places it was practical to construct temporary dams, so as to turn the streams from their channels for a greater or lesser distance.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Almost the entire mining population of Feather River in the spring of 1850 was engaged in enterprises of this nature.  Many had selected their mining claims in the autumn previous or in the early winter, and had worked upon them during the winter in making preparations to carry their project into execution as early in the spring as the water should become low enough to permit of its being successfully carried out.  The Pelham company owned a claim on the south fork of Feather River, where they had built and were occupying a comfortable log-house, and had expended much time and labor in making the necessary preparations.</P>
160.sgm:<P>They bought a pitsaw with which they sawed sufficient plank for the construction of a long flume to carry the water a considerable distance.  In appearance it was one of the most promising gold claims in the mountains.  It was almost certain that for each one of the company there was a fortune awaiting in the bed of the stream.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Numerous similar companies were constructing improvements of greater or lesser magnitude.  Everybody seemed sanguine of success.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We were doing fairly well at cutting wood and could continue to cut for the Vezie Company at six dollars per short cord.  We could earn on the average, including some rainy weather, twelve or fifteen dollars a day.</P>
160.sgm:<P>But we naturally reasoned something different.  If our friends in the mines should <HI REND="italics">strike it rich</HI>
160.sgm: and succeed in making a moderate fortune in a few months and we should spend our time cutting wood when we had the opportunity of securing a claim at some place along the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>After discussing the matter in many different aspects, it was decided by us that Mr. Pinney would remain and cut wood, while Mr. Butler and myself would go up the river into the mountains and endeavor to secure a claim.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Consequently, we left Yuba City and went up the Feather River into the mining country.  After prospecting for several days, we succeeded in securing a claim on the middle fork of Feather River, nearly thirty miles above Bidwell's.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At this time large quantities of snow still remained in the mountains above Bidwell's Bar.  We made sufficient arrangements to comply with the mining rules and regulations to hold the claim, and formed a company.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The names of all of this company I do not at this time recall, but at least there were two additional men that made the journey with us from Boston to California--Alden J. Nutting, of Westford, Mass., and Cyrus Whittemore, of Antrim, N.H.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The most promising claims had been selected and we made the best arrangements that seemed practical at that time.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The winter of 1849-50 was noted for the great amount of rain that fell in the valleys and the enormous depth of snow that accumulated in the mountains.  It was not expected that the streams would become sufficiently low so as to admit of working our claim before June.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After making the arrangements to hold the claim we returned to Bidwell's and did some mining there and at a place on the middle fork of Feather River, about 15 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>POSTOFFICE IN '49.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>While at Yuba City I became acquainted with a man by the name of Damon.  Capt. Robert D. Bonner went into trade then in company with another man and desired to hire some money at 10 per cent interest per month.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I loaned him a considerable sum, but unfortunately I never received from him any interest nor any part of the principal.  I soon afterwards lost sight of him and never knew his fate.  As he had become very dissipated probably he did not survive long.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Hay had sold at very high prices the winter previous, in some of the cities as high as $500 per ton.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Damon of Yuba City made the proposition that we go up Feather River to a suitable place and there cut and stack a lot of hay and sell it later.  He said he could not mow himself, but that he would hire a man to mow with me, and as he owned a horse, he would draw the hay together and pile it up, and we would sell it before the rainy season should set in.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I acquiesced in the proposition and we went up the river a few miles to a place where we found the grass was quite good.  We bargained for the right to cut as much as we might desire for a nominal sum from a man that owned a ranch nearby.  He was a squatter and probably had no more right to the grass than we had.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Damon owned one scythe and we succeeded in finding another--an old one--which we purchased for about fifty dollars.  Mr. Damon hired Alden J. Nutting, before mentioned.  Mr. Nutting was a short, thick set, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The grass grew on the river bottom and was the natural product of the soil.  It stood quite thick and was a fair crop, but had been trampled by cattle that had ranged over it and fed upon it at will, which caused it to be slow and difficult mowing.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We commenced mowing on Monday morning and I continued mowing every day through the week until Saturday night.  Mr. Nutting complained of being exhausted and quit work at Thursday noon, but resumed again on Friday morning.  There was no dew there at the time and the hay remained in the swath as it fell from the scythe, where it cured perfectly.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The next week we pitched it together into small piles where we loaded it upon a wagon and formed it into a square pile on the ground in a broad, open field.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Rakes of any kind we did not use.  We did some more mowing for Mr. Damon, as he would need some to feed to his horse.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Our stack of hay was about 40 feet long by 30 feet wide and ten or eleven feet high, and was estimated to contain twenty tons.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It is impossible at the present time, after the lapse of nearly forty-five years, to give from memory a <HI REND="italics">connected</HI>
160.sgm: account of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
160.sgm: the transactions in which I was engaged during the spring, summer and fall of 1850.  Consequently, I will write about events of which I find my original minutes, or others of which I still have a distinct memory, without regard to the exact dates or order in which they transpired.  It is possible that some events <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Some time I believe during that spring as Mr. Pinney and myself were returning from the mines on our way to Marysville, or Yuba City, we made a stop at Charles Burch's ranch, where we met a party of surveyors.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The engineer, Robert Elder, a Scotchman who had been employed for twelve years as an assistant engineer on the Michigan and Illinois canal, said to us that he was short of help and would like to employ us for a short time if our price was satisfactory.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Having no particular work in view, we set our price at eight dollars per day with board.  Mr. Elder thought that was more than he could afford to pay for help that had had no experience at such work, but said we could go to work on trial for two or three days.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He was laying out a new city a short distance farther up the river, it being a mile square, or nearly so.  He had then worked upon it for a few days.  The survey was being done for a company in Sacramento City, who later erected one or two large buildings, and made considerable effort to get a city started, but at length it proved to be a "paper city," as has been the fate of numerous other like schemes in the West.  We commenced work and after a few days were constantly expecting a notice of acquittal from Mr. Elder, or otherwise a reduction of wages.  Nothing, however, was said by either party in regard to it for nearly two weeks, when I inquired of him how much longer he supposed our services would be needed.  His reply was: "I would like to have <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Elder was a very kind man, yet he was somewhat eccentric, and his likes and dislikes very decided.  Up to that time I had no reason to believe that he had any preference for me over Mr. Pinney.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We worked a few days after the time of the incident narrated, when one day he said to me that he would suspend work and go to Marysville for a few days and he desired us to go with him.  We had boarded with an Englishman whom Mr. Elder had employed for that purpose, but he had lived at the ranch or house of a Frenchman by the name of John Roulo, located more than a mile down the river.  Mr. Roulo had an Indian wife.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Englishman was not a bad cook, but the principal diet for breakfast, dinner and supper the week through was stewed beef.  This beef was of good quality and was very well cooked, but it did not agree with me for a constant diet, with scarcely any other kind of food.</P>
160.sgm:<P>About this time we went to Marysville, and Mr. Elder took a trip to Sacramento City to consult with some of the officers of the company for whom we were at work, or they came to Marysville, I am not certain which.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Elder desired me to remain and return with him.  I made the proposition that I would do so upon the condition that I should board at the Frenchman's, where he did.  I confessed I could not stand the Englishman's stewed beef any longer.  He said I could just as well board at that place and might have done so if I had spoken about it to him.  We returned and I worked until the job was finished.  Mr. Pinney did not return with us.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There was in our party a Scotchman by the name of Campbell, one of the Sidney convicts.  He was quite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Sometimes when he had indulged too freely of whiskey, he would neither work himself nor permit any one else.  This did not suit me, as I intended to labor just as faithfully in the absence of Mr. Elder as I would if he were present.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One day when Mr. Campbell became quite drunk and foolish, and had allowed but very little work to be done by the party until afternoon, my patience had become exhausted.  I undertook to drink from the waterpail that was standing nearby under a large tree, when he gave the pail a sharp tilt, which spilled some of the contents upon me.  I started the second time to drink from the pail and he repeated the same foolish trick.  After he had done this for several times, I dashed all the remaining water in the pail squarely into his face.  He at once became almost frantic with rage, and seizing an axe threatened to cut me in pieces.  I kept myself a short distance beyond his reach, and laughed at his threats.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I knew it was an easy matter for me to keep beyond his reach, but I didn't know how long his anger would continue to rage, or whether he would revenge himself at some convenient time in the future when I might not be expecting it.  After a short time he ordered me to go to the river near by and refill the pail with water, but he still held the axe in one hand and the pail in the other.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>After Mr. Elder returned I spoke to him in relation to Mr. Campbell's actions, and he discharged him.  The next winter I heard that he was lynched at some place in one of the mountain valleys for horse stealing.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One incident I always remembered which took place while we were employed on this job.  When we were boarding at the French ranch, we carried a lunch for our dinners, which we would eat while seated under a large oak tree.  One day we sat down in the shade of a large branching tree and ate our dinner and rested ourselves perhaps nearly an hour.  Upon starting for our work we had gone but a short distance from the tree, where but a moment previous we had been quietly seated, when we heard a loud crash, and upon turning around we saw that a very large limb had broken from the tree and had fallen exactly upon the spot where we had been seated but a moment previous.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This branch at the point of breakage was more than a foot in diameter, and probably contained nearly a cord of wood.  There was not a breath of wind stirring and the branch had broken from its own weight, being just fully leaved out.  It seemed to me to be a very narrow escape from a serious accident.  I afterwards learned from my own observation that it was very often that limbs broke from such trees when loaded with leaves and there was no wind stirring.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Elder seemed to manifest a deep interest in my welfare, and while he was drafting the plan of the survey <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>At that time I had no intention of taking up the business of surveying, although from what little experience I had had with it, I thought I would like the work very much.  I practiced with the instruments as I had the time to spare from my other work, and learned something about portracting and the use of the scale and dividers.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Later in the same season I assisted Mr. Elder in laying out another "paper city," but it was not of so large extent as was the former one.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Not only was the winter of 1849-50 an excessive one in cold and storms, but the year 1850 was the most trying in the history of the gold-seekers.  The struggles for the possession of titles to the claims staked out by the prospecting miners reached a critical stage; the cholera raged in every section of the Pacific slope--aye, spread from ocean to ocean--and in addition to these and the trials and uncertainties of life in the mines, where hundreds were losing to one making, the Indians started upon the warpath.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Early in the summer, while I was at work at Bidwell's on Feather River, I witnessed the interesting and somewhat startling spectacle of a band of her men decked out in all of the horrible panoply of savage warfare.  All were elaborately painted in striking colors and armed in Indian fashion, bows and quivers, decorated in bright figures and filled with sharp pointed arrows tipped with glass heads, knives and other implements of a warlike nature.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>These dusky forces were composed of the "Valley Indians," as the native inhabitants of the lowlands were called, among whom was a branch known as the "Digger Indians," and the mountain tribes that had their homes in the Sierra Nevadas and adjacent highlands.  The last named tribes were at enmity with the first--a predatory warfare that existed for a long period--a war as it seemed to the bitter end.</P>
160.sgm:<P>An Indian village was situated twenty or twenty-five miles from Bidwell's easterly in the Sierras, which I had frequently passed through when I was prospecting in the Feather River gold mines.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One day about noon there suddenly appeared in this little mining settlement a file of naked Indian warriors, forty or fifty in number, nearly all young men in the vigor of manhood, all apparently sound, well developed, beautifully proportioned, athletic men, the leader the most conspicuous figure.  They came into view traveling at a slow dog trot, single file, each at a uniform distance from his file leader.  No word was uttered, and no one of them preceptibly turned his head to the right or to the left.</P>
160.sgm:<P>As the foremost reached the river, which at that place was deep and of considerable breadth, he stepped boldly and deliberately into the current without the slightest hesitation, and swam quickly to the opposite shore, where he again resumed the Indian trot of a few minutes before.  Even the river did not break the line or check the speed materially, but the line was maintained and the speed was continued on and up the steep mountain incline as on the level, without break or hesitation, far, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>They were from a valley tribe and had suddely come into view, passed through the village, swam the river, climbed the mountain side, and passed beyond our view in silence, bent on their errand of bloody carnage and death.  Determination, vengeance and savage destruction was pictured on every brow.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Something of vital moment to the aboriginal population not far distant was about to transpire.  And it was not long delayed.  It was learned a little later that the Indian village in the mountains before mentioned, was suddenly and sadly surprised on the night of the day that the war party passed through Bidwell's, and for the small Indian settlement it proved a great slaughter or massacre of the men, while a large number of the women and children were taken prisoners and conducted to new homes.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some time in the spring, James M. Butler being somewhat out of health, went to the Pelham camp to do the cooking for the company, where he remained until late in the fall, when he returned to his home in Pelham.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I did some mining at Bidwell's and one or two other places while we were waiting for the water to subside.  We visited our claim on the middle fork of Feather River several times, and made preparations to work it as soon as the state of the water would admit of doing it.  We were obliged to convey all the provisions needed there on our backs over the mountains from Bidwell's Bar, a distance of 25 or 30 miles.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>It was some time in July when the water became sufficiently low so as to admit of working the claim to advantage.  At that time the companies that had taken claims in the most favorable locations had succeeded in getting a part of the water turned aside from the channel, so that they had begun to work some of the beds of the streams.  A few of those who had succeeded in working any part of the river bed had found the claims rich, but a very large majority of such mines were only paying very moderately, and many were almost entirely worthless.  Some companies that had been at work all winter making preparations to turn a stream from its bed, when at last they had succeeded at the cost of so much labor and expense, found the bed of the stream so poor that it would not pay the expense of working.  This state of affairs was not encouraging for us.  As yet we had expended but little labor on our claim, but in loss of time in making arrangements, going back and forth conveying provisions and tools, with the loss of time in waiting for the water to subside, all together made it a matter of considerable magnitude, reaching probably two or three thousand dollars.  However, it was not our purpose to abandon our claim without a fair trial.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Instead of arranging to turn the whole stream at once, as we had originally intended, we concluded to construct a wing dam, so as to be able to test the paying qualities of the bed.  If it should prove of such richness as to warrant it, we could then build the dam as we had planned and turn the whole stream.  If it should prove of poor paying quality we would abandon it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Consequently, we constructed a wing dam so as to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>After completing this work, and washing the material from the river bed, we found but very little gold, not sufficient to pay for working.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I would probably have had nearly or quite a thousand dollars more than I did have at that time if I had kept at work and taken no part whatever in or about any river claim.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The Pelham company worked their claim and it paid for working after the stream was turned, but the returns as a whole were small, and the company was dissolved in the fall.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>THE ILLUSION OF "GOLD LAKE."</P>
160.sgm:<P>Many of the miners lost a whole season's labor, and had no more than they had the fall previous.  In the early part of the season there was quite an excitement at Marysville, and at the mines on Feather River, known as the "Gold Lake" excitement.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This was caused by a man who told in some respects a very plausible story or yarn.  He said he had been a long distance east into the Sierra Nevada mountains, where he had made the discovery of a lake where gold was so plentiful that it could be gathered in almost unlimited quantities.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He also said he was there at the lake for only a few days and that he had gathered more than he could carry, and had secreted it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Many believed his story to be all true, and the result was that quite a large company was gathered and went away back into the mountains and camped.  Gold Lake was searched for but could not be found.  It was said that after getting back into the mountains the Gold Lake leader appeared to be insane.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The result of the expedition was the discovery of Nelson's Creek mines on a stream emptying into the middle fork of Feather River, some 90 miles or more in the mountains.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Hearing of this discovery, which was said to be very rich, I concluded to go and take my chances.  This was before we had built our dam on the old claim.  Alden J. Nutting went with me, as I remember.  We traveled up there-on foot, and in those days in California every one carried his blankets, if nothing more.  When we arrived at Nelson's creek, we found a large number of people already there, provisions scarce and high, and although there were some very good mines, they did not appear to be very extensive or lasting.  We made a prospecting tour farther east among the mountains for two or three days, but as we found no gold in paying quantities, we soon after returned to the valley.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After we had abandoned our claim on the middle fork, I concluded to go to Nelson's Creek again.  I started from Marysville and traveled up there the second time.  This was in August, and yet at one place we traveled over a snow bank which we estimated was 25 feet deep.  After arriving there in company with one or two others, I selected a claim on the middle fork of Feather River, a short distance below the mouth of Nelson's Creek, where the stream could be turned by a dam.  We thought there was a possibility that the river bed might be rich, and we concluded to construct a small wing dam sufficient to test it.  We put in the dam so as to throw the water from a small portion of the river's bed.  The claim proved as worthless as our first one.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I then traveled up Nelson's Creek two or three miles and hired myself to a company who had turned the creek from its course and was working out its bed.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>This was paying fairly well.  If I remember correctly I was to have ten dollars per day and board.  The next camp below ours on the creek was about 80 rods distant, where three men were at work.  They were all from Vergennes, Vermont, and were neighbors before they left home.  They had a paying claim and were doing well.  As the stream between the two camps passed through a small canyon, the trail was a rough one.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One Saturday night, about twelve o'clock, one of these men came running up to our camp very much excited and out of breath, saying his two partners had been killed.  His version of the matter was that, as they all lay asleep, two or three men had killed his two companions with a hatchet while they slept, and that he was awakened by the noise of the blows, to discover a man with a hatchet raised over his head, just in the act of striking him the fatal blow.  He had jumped to his feet and run for his life.  He had heard someone running after him, but from the sound he thought his pursuer had fallen, and after that ceased to follow him.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We immediately went to the stricken camp, but could do nothing that night.  The next morning we went down and found the two men in the creek.  We took them out and found their heads cut to pieces, and also found the hatchet in the creek that was used by the murderers.  The men were said to have had a considerable quantity of gold, which they kept under their heads.  The gold could not be found.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We rolled the murdered men in their blankets as well as we could and buried them on the side of the mountain.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It would perhaps be natural for some to suspect the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>On the next Sunday, one week after the two dead men were found and buried, quite a company of men came into our camp, all being strangers.  Soon after they began to inquire in relation to the circumstances accompanying the murders, and all such circumstances and conditions were minutely gone into so far as was known.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After learning all that seemed to be possible to be known about the sad matter, they quietly departed.  We did not know their mission at the time.  Soon after we learned that they came from a small mining town, a few miles distant.  They heard of the murders, and of the circumstances of the three men being camped together, two of whom were killed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>They had talked the matter over and discussed the circumstances attending them, so far as they could learn them correctly at such a distance, and at a public meeting.  They had arrived at the conclusion that the survivor of the three men was undoubtedly the murderer.  The men that came to our camp had been selected at the meeting for the purpose of investigating the case, and to try the supposed murderer before Judge Lynch, and if found guilty, execute him.</P>
160.sgm:<P>When they came over Sunday morning they supposed it would all be completed and that they would return to their homes before night.</P>
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160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>But after an investigation had been made by them, they came to the conclusion that the companion who had made his escape was innocent.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At the time I left home for California in April, 1849, I was not in the enjoyment of very good health.  I was suffering somewhat from a cough, and it distressed me to inhale a long breath.  I did not feel strong and robust.  However, I had kept the matter a secret so far as was possible, thinking that if my friends knew the conditions they would oppose my going to California, and I was fully determined to go if possible and take the consequences, whatever they might be.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This condition of my health continued in some degree for a considerable length of time.  While at Independence, Missouri, where we remained about four weeks, my illness caused a pain in my side when I rode horseback.  The same was true after we had started on our journey over the plains.  It gradually wore away and long before we reached the Rocky Mountains, my health seemed to be perfect.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It continued to be excellent during all the last part of the journey and through the winter of 1849-50.  I was more fleshy and of heavier weight at that time than I had ever before been, or have been since.  When cutting wood at Yuba City I weighed more than 160 pounds, but during the summer of 1850 I did not enjoy entirely uninterrupted good health.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Our work on Nelson's Creek was very laborious.  It lay in a mountain gulch, deep down, where it was quite warm as long as the sun shone upon us.  I cannot at this time recall the exact length of time I worked there, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CUSTOM HOUSE ON THE PLAZA.  From an old print.</P>
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160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>However, I was not feeling as well as I could desire, especially toward the close of my service there.  Instead of feeling any improvement, I grew steadily worse.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The last morning I went to my work I felt miserable, but thought I would be able to overcome it, so I said nothing.  I worked until noon when I felt obliged to quit for the day.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There was at that camp a man by the name of Jewett, from some place in Massachusetts, who the winter previous had stopped a while at the Pelham camp.  The tragic fate of the men so near our camp seemed to make Mr. Jewett extremely nervous and timid.  He seemed to be almost afraid of his own shadow, and ever after the tragedy he was talking about going to the valley, and from there to his home in New England.  One obstacle to his making an immediate start was that he lacked the courage to go alone.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Two or three days after I had quit work he found some parties that were going to the valley, and as there was but two of them, he desired me to go with them to enlarge the party, and as he seemed to believe, make it safer.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I replied that as I was sick, probably I could not travel as fast as his party would desire to go, but if I did not improve in health within a few days, I thought I should go to the valley.  I had no fear to travel alone and would prefer to do so, as I could take my own time.  He was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We started on the morning of the next day after the arrangements had been completed.  His horse was at Onion Valley, about eight miles on our way.  From Nelson's Creek up the mountain, about one and one-half miles, it was very steep.  That brought us to the top of the mountain.  From there we traveled to Onion Valley.  There we took a little refreshments and then packed the horse and started for Grass Valley, about 18 miles distant.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Although the air on the mountain was cool, the morning was pleasant.  While in California I wore no coat.  Shirts and pants were the clothing worn, and during the rainy season when it was cooler we wore extra flannel shirts.  Blankets were much used instead of shirts when miners were not at work.  At that time I was dressed with a "Hickory" shirt and thin pants, all cotton.</P>
160.sgm:<P>When we left Onion Valley my blankets were packed on the horse, as I didn't expect to need them on the road while walking.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Soon after we left Onion Valley it commenced raining, which soon after turned into a wet snow.  This melted nearly as fast as it fell, and being thinly clad as I was, I was soon wet to the skin and very cold and uncomfortable.  I thought that if I could only get my blankets out of the pack to put over my shoulders it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I spoke to Mr. Jewett about it and he replied that he couldn't get at the blankets without unpacking the horse, and that he thought I could get along without them.  I said no more about the matter.  We at length arrived at Grass Valley, thoroughly drenched and almost exhausted.</P>
160.sgm:<P>While Mr. Jewett and his party were pitching the tent for the night, I went into a cloth eating house and seated myself on a board before a small fire burning on the ground.  After being seated there for some time I felt very faint.  I could see nothing for several minutes and everything looked black.  I said nothing but kept my seat, which was near the table.  I soon recovered from the faintness and became partially warm.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Supper was at length announced, but I did not desire to leave my seat, neither did I feel like eating anything.  I turned and faced the table, ate a small piece of a cracker and drank a little tea, paid two dollars for supper, and again faced the fire.</P>
160.sgm:<P>When it was nearly night I went over a short distance to Mr. Jewett's camp.  He said I had the scurvy, but I didn't think so.  He wanted me to get some potatoes and eat them raw, scraped in vinegar.  He urged the matter so persistently that I bought a pound of small potatoes, for which I paid one dollar and a half, scraped some of them into vinegar and made an effort to take them as medicine.  It was too much like an emetic for me.  I threw away those I had prepared, gave the balance to Mr. Jewett, and told him that rather than eat raw potatoes I would take my chances with the scurvy.  But, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Each one of the small party had some kind of firearms.  I had a double barrel shotgun, which was loaded with buckshot, but during the rain it had become wet through so that it was impossible to discharge it without giving it a thorough cleaning and drying.  He desired me to put it in thorough order and reload it.  I told him I would not do it, that I was about to lie down and make myself as comfortable as possible.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He said we were all liable to be murdered before morning.  I said to him that I felt no fear of it, and that I was willing to take the risk.  The night passed quietly away, and the next morning I felt slightly rested, but no better otherwise.  I had no appetite and was quite weak.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After Mr. Jewett and his party had eaten their breakfast, they packed up and started for the next camp, which was twelve or thirteen miles distant.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We soon fell in with another small party that was traveling the same way, and Jewett was very much pleased to have their company.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I could not travel as fast as the party, and falling behind I traveled alone nearly the entire distance.  When I arrived at the camp I was nearly exhausted.  I did not at that time look for Jewett and his party.  They were preparing or eating their dinners a short distance away.  But I found my blankets where he unpacked his horse, and I lay down upon them under a tree and soon fell asleep. </P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>Not long after, I was awakened by Mr. Jewett, who said he wanted my blankets to be packed.  I told him he couldn't have them any more, as I was going no farther that day.  He inquired the reason, and I said I could go no farther until I had some rest.  He asked me if I was sick, and I asked him if he had just learned the fact.  I had supposed he knew it before we started, when he promised to be so kind to me if I would go with him.  He desired that I would permit him to take my gun with him, and promised to leave it at the Pelham camp.  I was glad to have him do this as it would release me of that much load, and I was no more afraid to travel there in the mountains unarmed at that time than I now fear to travel the streets of Nashua in broad daylight.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This was the last I saw of Mr. Jewett.  I afterwards learned that he went to the Pelham camp, where he made a short stay.  He soon after went to San Francisco and started for home, as I remember, by way of Mexico, but it was said he never reached his home.  What his fate was I never knew.  It seemed very certain that his cowardice was a much more prominent trait in his character than his hospitality.  I remained over at the place during that afternoon and night, and the next day and night.  I felt somewhat rested, but did not improve much in other respects.  I didn't quite enjoy the place and thought I would try to make a little progress toward the valley.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There were two or three stopping places on the road within eight or nine miles, one of which was Strawberry Valley.  I believe the first one was about three miles distant.  I settled my bill and started in the morning, traveling leisurely and reached the first station, where I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I reached the place near night but I was very tired.  This "ranch" consisted of a cloth house, which contained a "bar," table, a cooking stove, with some other furnishings.  Near by was a large tent in which travelers could sleep upon the ground by paying two dollars for the privilege.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I was glad to avail myself of even this meagre benefit, but I awoke during the night suffering excruiating pains in my body and limbs.  I tried in vain to rise and stand upon my feet.  I believe I never suffered more severe pains than during that night.  The next forenoon I succeeded, after long and laborious efforts, to get upon my feet and move about a little.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I remained here four or five days and had mended somewhat, so I was contemplating resuming my journey, when I was surprised to see an old acquaintance enter the tent.  His name was George Carlton and he was from Pelham, N.H., a man of somewhat rough manners but with a kind heart.  He was as glad to see me as I was him.  It seemed that Jewett had informed the party at Pelham camp of the fact that he had left me in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I remained with my Pelham friends five or six days, improving in health quite rapidly.</P>
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160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>MINING ON THE YUBA RIVER</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some time after we had cut the hay I met Mr. Damon, my partner, when he said that he had concluded to go to his home in the East for a short stay, and he would return probably as early as the next winter or spring.  He desired me to sell the hay before the rainy season should set in and retain his part of the proceeds until his return.  I proposed to send his share of whatever I should receive for the hay to him in the East, but he said that it would be his wish that I would keep it until his return.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One object I had in view when I left Nelson's Creek was to attend to selling the hay.  While it would be some time before the rainy season would set it, there was danger from fire.  Everything in the valley was as dry as tinder, and the hay was on the open plain where people were passing back and forth to the mines and cities.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I concluded to make an effort to dispose of it.  This was some time near the end of September.  I traveled from the Pelham camp to the place where we cut and stacked the hay and found it to be safe.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I sold a small part of it to some one, and then went to Marysville.  I there managed to dispose of the balance on condition that the purchaser should do the teaming, but that I should assist in the loading.  The distance it was to be drawn was 12 or 15 miles.  As it would require several days to do the teaming, and as there was no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I remained at that place and assisted the teamster in loading the hay, otherwise I had no company with the exception of coyotes, of which there were plenty.</P>
160.sgm:<P>These little animals of the wolf species were very numerous at this time.  They were not dangerous, but were mischievous.  They were small in size but they could make a great amount of noise.  About the time it was becoming dark every evening they would begin their howling.  First, the voice of one would be heard in some direction, which would seem to be answered by another in another quarter, and then another and another would follow, until there would appear to be a perfect chorus of voices, howling and barking.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I had heretofore learned to keep completely out of their way as much as was possible everything that I had that they would care to eat.  However, they soon found my quarters, and I would hear them in the night all about near where I was lying.  At first I took little notice of them.  One night I was awakened by more noise and disturbance than was usual, when I arose to see what they were doing.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The moon shone brightly and I could see them in large numbers around and very near me.  I made an effort to drive them away but they would scamper for a short distance only, when they would stand and look at me.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Upon making an investigation I found they had drawn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>The next morning I discovered that they had carried away almost everything I had about the camp.  They had dragged away to a considerable distance a brand new rope, about 30 feet in length.  A new tin pint drinking dipper, a tin spoon, and other articles I found scattered about in various directions, and they had even invaded my water cask and taken the bung out.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I don't now remember at what price I sold the hay, but believe it was between $40 and $50 a ton, so we made a very fair job in cutting it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Between the time of the disposal of the hay and the time of the setting in of the rainy season, I cannot at this time give any detailed account of my work.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some time during the season, and I believe it was during this time, I cut some more wood near Yuba City.  At that time the steamboat company did not wish to buy any green wood, but they said if we should cut some and have it drawn out and piled on the bank of the river they would need it after it had become seasoned.  Some one, Worchester Gage of Pelham, as I remember, cut with me.  We cut quite a quantity and has it piled on the river bank below Yuba City, near an Indian village.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>About this time the cholera was raging among these Indians to a fearful extent, and many of them died of the disease.  It was their custom to cremate their dead bodies, which they did by placing them on a pile of wood and burning it.  The flesh was burned, but the bones would remain unconsumed, which they would gather up and deposit in a small hole in the ground, dug for that purpose.  When these bodies were being consumed it created a very sickening odor.  After the wood became seasoned it was very convenient for these Indians to use for their domestic purposes, and they carried away considerable quantities of it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I once tried to frighten them, telling them that I would shoot the first one that I should find in the act of removing any of the wood.  It seemed to me that there was not so much removed afterwards.  Before the wood was sold Mr. Gage went home to Pelham and left his share of the wood with me to be disposed of and to forward to him his share of the proceeds.  I afterwards sold it and sent him his share of the money.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some time during the fall, after I had sold the hay, I was traveling up the road going toward Bidwell's, when I heard a horse coming behind me, and on looking back I saw some one riding toward me horseback that I soon recognized as my friend Mr. Damon, though I had supposed he was in the states.  He soon overtook me and said he had been no farther than San Francisco, where he had remained for some time, and had concluded to return and not go East at present.  On his reaching Marysville he had learned that I had started for Feather River mines, and he came on after me.  I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I explained to him the situation, and said that probably I did not have enough with me to settle with him in full.  He said he had anticipated that situation and that I could pay him as much as I could conveniently spare, or if I could not spare him any at that time it would be just as well.  After we had calculated the amount due him from me, we went into one of the cloth hotels by the roadside near by and weighed out the amount in gold dust that was his due, and which exhausted almost the whole amount I had with me.  He almost absolutely refused to take it <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
160.sgm:<P>We then parted and he went toward Marysville, while I continued my journey toward Feather River mines.  I have no remembrance of ever meeting Mr. Damon afterwards.  He was a good man.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One incident that transpired during the spring of 1850 while I was in the mines of Feather River: Several of us were camped there at the time, one of whom was a man from some town in New Hampshire who crossed the plains in company with us, and whose name as I now remember it, was Watkins.  He and I were taken at about the same time with a similar illness, and one was substantially as ill as the other.  I didn't apprehend that either of us was dangerously ill.  Mr. Watkins soon lost his courage and began to talk that the should never again <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Soon after I began to improve, but he grew worse constantly and became more despondent.  We had a tent to camp in, but as it was previous to the end of the rainy season, there was yet some damp, cold, stormy weather, and it was cold in the tent.</P>
160.sgm:<P>That he might be made as comfortable as was possible, I constructed a stone fireplace at the end of the tent and built a stone chimney to a point a little higher than the ridge of the tent.  This made it possible to keep a fire so as to warm the tent and keep it dry and comfortable, and it operated quite satisfactorily.  Mr. Watkins seemed to be very well pleased with the arrangements, but did not improve.  I nursed him to the best of my ability, but he steadily declined, and a few days later he died.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We opened a grave in a convenient place, wound his blankets about him, and buried him, which was all we could do for him.  Poor Watkins!  He had gone to his home, but not to the home that seemed to be uppermost in his mind.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One day in the fall of 1850, when I was in Marysville, there was an auction at which horses were being sold.  A very thin, rundown horse was offered and as nobody made a bid, I started it at a small amount, and as no one raised the bid, it was knocked down to me.  After making a little inquiry I learned that a man keeping a ranch a few miles out, took horses to herd.  I took the horse out there and engaged him to keep it until I should call for it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some time in November, about the time the rainy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Previous to this time I had met James M. Butler in Marysville on his way to San Francisco and they to go home.  I sent by him to my brother Moses at Pelham 18 3/4 ounces of gold dust, which at $16 per ounce, the California price, was worth $300.  This was to pay the money borrowed to pay the expenses to California in 1849.  Mr. Butler went home by the way of Mexico and had a hard journey.  He arrived home in January.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Carlton and I went up the Yuba River and made a camp.  I made a small quicksilver machine for washing gold.  It was of my own invention and I had made one of the same kind before.  It was made watertight, and when working it the back end was set lower than the front end.  The quicksilver was worked in the rear end, and that end being the lowest part of the machine, the quicksilver would remain there.  When the gold touched the quicksilver it would amalgamate and be held there, while the gravel would be washed away and pass out at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The mines were not very rich at this place, but in good weather we could each make from $8 to $12 dollars a day, and some days considerably more.  One advantage here over many other places was that the water did not give us so much trouble, as the bar was larger and higher than many others.  The rainy season was not nearly so severe as was that of the year previous.  We could also procure better provisions.  All eatables were high, and that was to be expected, but they were of a very fair quality.  We could procure plenty of either Irish or sweet potatoes, produced, I believe, at the Sandwich Islands.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Carlton cooked the meat and potatoes and I made and baked the bread and washed the dishes.  We passed a very comfortable winter.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At this place were two brothers by the name of Davis from Nashua, N.H.  The given name of the elder one I believe was Josiah.  If I remember correctly they both lived to return home, but both died not very long after.  Josiah died first.  The younger one was not more than seventeen or eighteen years of age at that time, but he was very active and smart.  They kept a store in quite a large cloth building very near our camp.</P>
160.sgm:<P>An elderly man from eastern Tennessee slept in the building.  He was a blacksmith and was probably a man who never accumulated very much property during his life before he came to California.  He owned a little forge with a kit of tools and did jobs for the miners, for which he received good pay, and he had accumulated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Within the same building lodged a man from Virginia, a miner, a tall, spare man, always good-natured, but somewhat taciturn or reserved, and appeared to be an honest man, one which almost any one would not hesitate to trust.  The Davis brothers, and some others, also slept in the same building.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I was very friendly with the Davis brothers, who by the way, were brothers of the late S. S. Davis of Nashua.  I was in the building quite often when I was not at work.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One day Mr. Blacksmith came running from the building about breakfast time, almost insane with excitement.  Upon making inquiry as to the cause of his grief he said some one had stolen all his purse of gold.  At first it was thought he had probably mislaid it, and that it would be found where he had put it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>An investigation was made at once, after which all present were satisfied that a theft had been committed by some one, but who the guilty party was no one could seem to determine.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The first thing to be done was to make a thorough search of every person known to have been in the building that morning.  That was done, and as I had been into the place, I was searched with the others, but the search revealed nothing.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There was a man there of rather eccentric character, who was also mining on the bar.  He made quite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIGILANTES IN '49.</P>
160.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>He didn't disturb it or even go to the place, but immediately returned and made report of his discovery.  A party soon after went with him, and digging away the sand at the spot of the disturbance, the blacksmith's bag of gold was revealed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It was carried to the camp and Mr. Blacksmith was asked to identify his bag of gold, which he had lost.  This was before he knew there was any prospect of ever recovering it.  This he readily did, and when it was placed in his hands he was as happy a man as I ever saw.  He was so overjoyed that he wanted to give onehalf of it to those that found it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>However, the incident so shocked him that he concluded to return immediately to his home in Tennessee, where he had a daughter.  Soon after he left for home.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The evidence against the Virginian seemed to be quite conclusive.  He was the only person known to have pursued that trail to the river that morning, and the footprints in the sand agreed very perfectly with his boots.  "Judge Lynch" was soon summoned to hold a court.  The court was organized and the Virginian was arraigned.  The evidence was very damaging, but was circumstantial and not entirely positive, every one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We remained at that place until near the end of March, 1851.  I believe I enjoyed our stay here better than any other time of the same length during my time in California.  My health was fairly good; we made average pay, and had good company.</P>
160.sgm:<P>About this time we concluded to go to San Francisco, where neither of us had yet been.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Carlton had been talking continually about going to farming in some of the coast valleys, which at that time seemed to be paying good returns.  We started for Marysville.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At that time the Yuba River was quite high, swollen by recent rains, and we were obliged to make the crossing at a ferry.  At the place of the ferry the current was rapid and strong, and immediately below were falls or rapids, full of immense boulders.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The ferry boat was a large one, made for the purpose of carrying teams, mules and horses, as well as foot passengers.  It was held at its place and guided across the river by a large rope made fast over the river.  At this high stage of water only foot passengers were ferried over.  The rope was a large one, but I noticed that it was quite old and considerably worn.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>There were several fellow passengers with us in crossing.  As soon as we were fairly in the stream I noticed there was a heavy strain on the rope, and it seemed to me it was liable to part at any second.  I looked at the whirling, boiling stream below, that I might, if possible, make some consistent attempt to save myself in case the rope should part and we should go over the rapids.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I could see no possibility of escape for any one aboard in that event.  I uttered not a word until we had landed safely on the opposite shore, when I made the inquiry of the ferryman if he considered the rope used to be safe for the purpose at that stage of water.  He said he believed it to be perfectly safe.  I told him I could not be hired at any price to recross the stream again under like conditions, as I did not consider the rope safe.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I afterwards learned that on the following day, while thirteen men were crossing in the same boat, the rope parted and every one of the men, including the ferryman, were drowned.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We went to Marysville, and I continued on to the ranch where I had left the horse the fall previous.  Upon inquiring for my horse of the proprietor, he went out to the range and returned with a sleek, fat black horse that did not seem to resemble in any way the one I had left there, except in color.  At first I could not believe it to be the same animal, but I accepted his word, and after settling for its keeping, I rode it away.  It was a very handsome horse.  As Mr. Carlton also owned a horse we rode down the valley on horse back to Sacramento City, where we left our horses and took a steamer for San Francisco.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>At that time there were as many as three quite large steamers constantly running between Sacramento and San Francisco.  One company was running the "Senator" and "New World," both of which I believe formerly were run between Boston and Bangor, and had been taken around Cape Horn to San Francisco.  The other was the Hartford, a slower and older boat.  The fare I don't remember, but it was not so much on the Hartford as on either of the other two boats.  We took passage on the Hartford.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This was near the time that the excitement in regard to the Vigilance Committee was at its height.  Several persons had been tried and executed in San Francisco, and considerable excitement existed there.  The civil law had taken the place of lynch law, and had been in operation several months.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Murders, robberies and other crimes were of almost every-day occurrence.  The courts had failed in most cases to make convictions, and the criminals, especially in such cases where they possessed a considerable amount of wealth, went free and unpunished.  Life or property had become very unsafe almost anywhere.  The Vigilance Committee soon caused a far different and a much better state of affairs.  Many were the cases in which the evidence against the prisoner would seem conclusive, but the verdict would be "not guilty."  The prisoner would be immediately seized, taken to the rooms of the committee and there tried and convicted and executed, and all within the space of a short time after he had been cleared by the court.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Several such cases took place while we remained in San Francisco, which was several days.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We went out to the old Mission Dolores, and to what has been later called Seal Rocks.  We continued our journey down the valley and made some investigation in regard to lands for farming purposes.  We learned that all those lands were claimed under old Spanish or Mexican grants, which at that time had not been settled or adjusted by the United States government, consequenty we abandoned the scheme of farming and returned to Marysville.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We soon after parted and I have no remembrance of ever meeting Mr. Carlton after that time.  He never returned to his home in New Hampshire, but died in California a few years later.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>WITH COMPASS AND CHAIN IN OREGON</P>
160.sgm:<P>I had occasionally met Mr. Elder, and about this time he informed me that a surveyor general had been appointed for the territory of Oregon; that he was a man from Illinois, with whom he was well acquainted, and that he would probably be at San Francisco on his way to Oregon in a few weeks.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It was his intention to meet the official in San Francisco, expecting to make arrangements to go to Oregon and do some work on the government surveys.  He also said to me that if he should do so, he would like to have me go with him.  I did not decide at that time to go.</P>
160.sgm:<P>About that time I met Mr. Pinney in Marysville.  I believe he had been cutting wood at Yuba City for some time previous.  During the late summer or autumn previous he was employed with others at some place on or near Nelson's Creek, where they had struck a good claim and had taken out quite an amount of gold.  I never learned the exact amount, but supposed it to be from $4,000 to $5,000 for his share.  Some time while chopping he had boarded at Yuba City with a Rev. Mr. George H. Hanson.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Hanson and a Mr. Bayliss, who kept a hotel at Yuba City, owned the ferry across Feather River at that place.  Pinney informed me that Mr. Hanson desired to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We looked the situation over and found the cut on the Yuba City side would be light, but that on the Marysville side was quite deep.  I suggested to Mr. Pinney that the better plan would be that Mr. Hanson should set his stakes so that we could know just what would be expected from us to complete the work.  Mr. Hanson proposed that the road should be at a true grade from the shore to a certain point, about 150 feet distant, and should be of sufficient width to permit the passage of two teams when meeting, the banks to be properly sloped.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After considerable discussion relative to the depth of the cut, which I claimed would be twelve feet, he replied that he knew it could not be more than nine feet deep, and made the following expression in his western dialect: "You needn't for to dig it more than nine feet anyhow."</P>
160.sgm:<P>We made the contract to do the work with the understanding that we would not be required to excavate over nine feet in the deepest place, but it was not written out.  We bought some shovels and the next day we commenced the work.  The material to be removed was all fine sand and was good shoveling.  We began at the waters edge and threw it into the river and it was washed away by the current.  We made the sand fly fast and we made a large showing on the first day.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After we had worked away from the river so that we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We made the cut nine feet deep at the deepest point and finished it in width so that two teams could easily pass each other, but Mr. Hanson then claimed that it must be on a true grade.  This would at least add one-third to the amount of work.  But as we had no written contract, we concluded that the better way out of it was to make the cut as he proposed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Another matter that came into controversy later was about the width.  At the time the contract was made, when Mr. Hanson said the cut must be of sufficient width for two teams to pass, I made the remark that that was very indefinite, and made the request that he should give the number of feet required at the bottom of the cut, and he did so.</P>
160.sgm:<P>About this time Mr. Pinney received a letter from Pelham, N.H., which I suppose was from a Miss Young, with whom he had formerly been somewhat intimate, and whom he married later.  This letter seemed to have such an effect upon him that he lost all interest in the work, and a few days later proposed to me that I should pay him for his share of the work completed.  He said he had concluded to start for home at once.  I pleaded in vain that he should remain until our contract was finished.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I paid him for his interest and he started for San Francisco.  We supposed the contract to be nearly finished.  I had met Mr. Elder and he informed me that he had met the surveyor-general of Oregon, John B. Preston of Illinois, in San Francisco.  Mr. Preston was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Elder had been employed as assistant engineer on the Michigan and Illinois canal in Illinois by the new surveyor-general.  He said Mr. Preston had promised him work on the government survey.  He intended to go to Oregon a little later and desired me to go with him.  I agreed to go.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I continued to work on the job and at length finished it, as I supposed.  I had made the cut a true grade from the river to the point agreed upon, which made it 13 feet deep at the deepest point.  The width was the number of feet stated by Mr. Hanson, but it was not quite wide enough to permit of two teams passing each other.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I had also finished the cut on the Yuba City side as was agreed upon, and I supposed that Mr. Hanson would be willing to accept the work and pay the amount agreed upon.  I informed him that the contract was completed and requested him to examine it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We went to the Marysville side, and after measuring the bottom of the deep cut Mr. Hanson said it was not sufficiently wide to permit two teams passing each other.  I reminded him of the conversation in relation to the matter when the number of feet was given by him, but he could recollect nothing in relation to that matter.  He insisted that it must be made considerably wider before it would be accepted.  After having done about one-third more work than we really had contracted to do, to be required to make the cut two or three feet wider, when it was 150 feet long and 13 feet deep at the deepest point, seemed to me to be asking too much.  But I found him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I made the alteration as he had suggested and again I informed him that the contract was completed.  Again he went with me to the place of the cut, and also Mr. Bayliss was with us.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Hanson began to measure and also to find fault with the work, claiming that the job was not nearly completed.  He said he would not pay me until considerable more was done.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I could endure it no longer, and I said to Mr. Hanson that he was the meanest man I had had any dealings with in California.  Thereupon, he became almost frantic, and he immediately drew the square over my head.  It was a heavy carpenter's steel square.  He exclaimed that if I uttered another word he would split my head open! I immediately repeated the remark.  Of course, it was not my intention to stand there quietly and permit him to cleave my head open, as he had threatened to do.  But I stood still nevertheless, intending, if he attempted to strike me, to pursue the course that might seem to be best under the existing conditions.  He threw down the weapon and said he would never pay me a dollar for the work until I had done a large amount more to finish it.  Determined not to yield now, I replied I had already removed about twice the amount of earth the contract called for at first; that he had continually lied about it; that no dependence whatever could be placed on his word or veracity; that he was a very unjust specimen of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>He went away saying he would never pay me a cent.  I was as fully determined I would do no more work on the job under any conditions.  At first I thought I would sue him for the amount due me.  After considering the matter for a day or two I concluded I would see what could be done with Mr. Bayliss, his partner, about the matter.  I had been acquainted with him for a number of months, and had considered him an honest man.  He had no part in making the contract so far as I was concerned.  I went to him one day and informed him that I was about to go to Oregon and that I should like to settle the matter.  As he was a partner with Mr. Hanson in the ferry, and I had always believed him to be a reasonable man, I had come to him to talk about the matter.  Mr. Bayliss listened to my statements very kindly, but said he regretted the conversation that had taken place between Mr. Hanson and myself.  If that had been otherwise he thought the matter might have been adjusted with little trouble, but Mr. Hanson was a very passionate man, and as he was then feeling toward me, he would not agree to any settlement that would be satisfactory to me.  He said it would be of no use whatever to undertake to have Mr. Hanson agree to pay the full amount of the contract price, but provided I would consent to make a small discount he would see what arrangement could be made with him.  When I again met Mr. Bayliss a little later, the proposed settlement had been agreed upon and he paid me accordingly.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I soon after left Marysville for San Francisco, on my way to Oregon.  At San Francisco I met Mr. Elder and also Mr. Pinney, who had been waiting here all this time for the sailing of the steamer for Panama.  He expected now to sail within two or three days.  He might as well have remained and assisted me finishing the contract.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Pinney had brought his gold with him.  It had been put up in several buckskin bags.  After his arrival in San Francisco, instead of depositing it in one of the banks for safe keeping during his stay in the city, he had buried it in the sands of one of the vacant lots of the city.</P>
160.sgm:<P>When he went to recover it he failed to find it, when he became thoroughly alarmed.  After a more thorough search, however, he found it.  He said it had been removed from the place where he first deposited it and had been buried in another place.  It was in vain I tried to make him believe that if anybody had taken the gold from its hiding place he would have carried it away, instead of concealing it in a new place, and he would never have got his hands on it again.  While he admitted the force of the argument, he said he was perfectly sure that he found it in a different location from where he placed it.  He said he was very nervous when he failed to find his fortune where he had buried it.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Almost any one would be nervous under similar conditions.  However, it was always my opinion that he found it at the exact spot where he had placed it, but that he had mistaken the locality.  Probably Mr. Pinney's deposit of gold did not weigh less than from twenty to twenty-five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I had been in California two winters and one summer, or a little over nineteen months.  As a whole I had enjoyed my experiences quite well.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We remained in San Francisco a few days, waiting for the sailing of the steamer for Portland, Oregon, and left on Wednesday, June 4, 1851, in the Pacific mail steam-</P>
160.sgm:<P>After we had passed out through the Golden Gate into the Pacific ocean, the sea became quite rough, but as I had never been on the ocean before, I did not realize it was any rougher than usual.  Nearly all the passengers were seasick.  I thought I should escape, but in the evening I also became a victim.  The seasickness stood by me for two or three days, and was the only time, with one exception, I was ever afflicted that way.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We passed over the bar at the mouth of the Columbia river on Sunday, June 8th, and arrived at Portland, Oregon, on Monday the 9th, where we remained over night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On Tuesday, June 10th, we passed up the River Willamette, about twelve miles, to Oregon City, in a small, open iron steamer, that probably might safely carry 15 or 20 passengers.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At the time we arrived in Oregon the surveys had been commenced by two parties.  The meridian and base lines had to be established and run for greater or lesser distances before any other surveys could be made.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The surveyor-general had taken with him from the states several experienced surveyors and quite a number of other persons to engage in the surveys.  A point near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I had been studying surveying when an opportunity presented itself, but knew practically nothing of the government system of public surveys.  There seemed to be but little work to be had at Oregon City, and board was quite high.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Elder was engaged by the surveyor-general as chief clerk in the surveyor-general's office.  I was a stranger to the surveyor-general and all his deputies that he brought with him, and I knew that he would provide places for all his own party before a stranger like myself would receive any attention.  Yet, I knew Mr. Elder was a good friend to me, but as he was engaged in the office, the prospect seemed to be that he would have no contract, consequently could give me no assistance that was most needed by me.  It seemed to me that I had made a mistake in leaving California, and I thought seriously of returning.  But through Mr. Elder's encouragement I was induced to remain.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We boarded at a hotel which was one of two kept in Oregon City, where board was six dollars a week, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>After remaining for about three days, I concluded to leave for a time, and as it was uncertain when I should return, I settled my board bill, paying the day price.  It so happened that I returned on the evening of the same day, and occupied my room as before.  I then remained during the remainder of the week and some days over.  When I came to settle my board with the landlord he presented a bill made up by the day price for the time after I had paid him.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I claimed the agreement was, if I remained for a whole week, or seven days or more, that the price should be by the week, and that the fact that I settled with him and made a payment at the middle of the week did not change the matter, so far as right and justice was concerned.  At the time of the former settlement I paid him a part of a week's board, and that now I was to pay him the balance.  But he failed to see the matter in that light, and claimed the day price.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Consequently, I paid him on his basis by the day, but I left him to board at the other hotel, "Mosses," where I ever after stayed when in Oregon City.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Soon after arriving in Oregon I went south up the Willemette valley among the farmers, thinking possibly I would find some work for a time, but as I found no employment, I returned to Oregon City after a few days.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some one informed me that a mill was being erected on the Tualitan River, a few miles from Oregon City, and that the owner of the mill needed some more help.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I went to the location where the mill was being built and engaged to work for three dollars a day and board for a short time.  I commenced work on Monday, June 30th.  The labor was very hard, it being on a dam across the stream, which was being constructed of stone, brush and gravel.  All of this material had to carried by hand.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I labored on the dam for twelve days, when it was nearly completed, and the proprietor, Mr. Madden, discharged a considerable part of his help.  He had other work to be done in building the sawmill and its foundations, etc.  He said to me he should pay his laborers only two dollars per day after that date, but that if I would remain he would pay me two dollars and fifty cents.  I continued on the job until the 3d day of August.</P>
160.sgm:<P>About this time Mr. Elder one day came over to see me and informed me that he had contracted with the government to resurvey Oregon City and desired me to assist him in the work.  At that time he had very little work in the office, as none of the surveys had been completed.  I went to Oregon City, but it was some time before he was prepared to commence the job of resurveying the town.  In the meantime I was pursuing the study of surveying in earnest.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MINERS STARTING FOR HOME.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We commenced the survey on Thursday, August 21st, and completed it on September 29th, making an entirely new survey and setting the bounds, which was authorized and approved by the United States government.</P>
160.sgm:<P>While at work on the Tualitan River, the last part of my work there had been on the river, clearing it from sunken timbers and obstructions, so as to permit logs being floated down to the mill.</P>
160.sgm:<P>During the time that I was engaged on the Oregon City survey for Mr. Elder, the contracts had been let to survey township lines, one to Butler Ives, a brother of William Ives, dated August 15; one to William Ives, dated September 10; and one to James E. Freeman, dated September 17.  These contracts provided for the surveying of the exterior lines of twenty townships, within the most thickly settled part of the Willamette valley, and principally south of Oregon City, reaching as far south as Township No. 10, or near to Albany on the Willamette River.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Elder made arrangements with Mr. Freeman, when the work at Oregon City should be completed for me to go out and work for him.  Mr. Freeman's contract included some of the Willamette and Santiam Rivers, and extended southerly so as to include townships 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 south of range I west, and townships 9 and 10 south of ranges 2, 3 and 4 west, with a part of the 2d standard parallel south.  This work was from 30 to 50 miles south of Oregon City.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After the Oregon City work had been completed, I left the place and traveled on foot and alone southerly to the point where Mr. Freeman's party was at work, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Zenas F. Moody from Chicopee, Mass., who went to Oregon at or about the same time as the surveyor-general.  He was young, only 20 years of age.  He afterwards became governor of Oregon for four years.  Another was George W. Hyde, a brother-in-law of Mr. Preston, the surveyor-general; and another was Allen F. Seymour, of New York state, all of whom went to Oregon with the party of Mr. Preston, and had worked with Mr. Freeman on the meridian line.  Mr. Moody and Mr. Seymour were chainmen.</P>
160.sgm:<P>All the government public land surveys were required to be made with Burt's patent solar compass.  This was an instrument that was guided by the sun instead of the magnetic needle, and was of far greater accuracy.  It was provided with a needle that could be used when it was impossible, from any cause, to make use of the sun.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The township lines were all required to be surveyed by the sun, but subdivisions were permitted to be made in part by the needle, at such places where local attraction did not exist to great extent.  At this time I knew nothing whatever in regard to the working of the solar compass.  I had never even seen the instrument.  It is very reliable, but is provided with several arcs, which must be constantly adjusted; the most important of these are the latitude arc and the declination arc.  The exact latitude, even to one minute of a degree, of the place of work, must be set off on the latitude arc, and the declination of the sun, north or south, must be set off on the declination arc, also to the exact minute for the month, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>The next morning after I came into camp Mr. Freeman told me to take the axe for that day.  He also told me to blaze the trees that stood on each side and near to the line as run by the compassman where there were trees, and to prepare posts for the section and quarter-section corners.  I have a distinct recollection of feeling considerably embarrassed, as I did not fully comprehend all the duties I was expected to perform.  It was all new to me.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The line was started and the first tree that needed to be marked was blazed on the proper side, but I made it quite low down.  I went along the line a short distance and turned about, facing the tree I had marked.  It at once occurred to me that the purpose of blazing those trees was for a guide by which to follow the lines, and that marks should be made sufficiently high so as to be readily seen at a distance, and that afterwards I would make the marks higher up on the trees.</P>
160.sgm:<P>While I stood looking at the marked tree, Mr. Freeman said: "Make the marks a little higher on the trees."  Mr. Hyde gave me some instructions as to what the corner posts should be, and how they should be prepared, and I soon became familiar with the duties of an "axeman."  I continued to perform these duties for several weeks, until one day Mr. Freeman said to me that perhaps I might thing it strange he kept me as axeman so long.  He had not at first intended to do so, but they had tried two or three before I came and could not make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>This was the first time that I had known if I had given even ordinary satisfaction.  I said to him that I was satisfied, that I had enjoyed the work, and that I felt greatly pleased if I had given satisfaction.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Freeman was not an expert mathematician, and as I had studied trigonometry pretty thoroughly, I could calculate distances very readily by logarithmic sines.  There were many triangulations to make and distances to calculate across rivers and bayous.  When I first began work for Mr. Freeman, he requested that I would make the calculations of the distances with him.  He would work them by the traverse table, and I by logarithmic sines.  Sometimes we would agree in our results, but very often we would obtain different results, and in such cases we would each go over the work again.  In almost every such instance the error was found in his work.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After a time he gave up making all such calculations and trusted it wholly to me, unless they were of a very simple character.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Hyde left the party soon after I began work for Mr. Freeman.  He assisted him in making the calculations before I came.  It was very important that the work of the calculations of these triangulations and distances should be done correctly, as a small error was liable to cause much trouble later, and sometimes might cost hundreds of dollars to correct.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We continued the work, but in November, previous to the finishing of the contract, the rainy season began and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>About November 20 Mr. Freeman concluded to go to Oregon City.  The contract was not completed, but with favorable weather it could be finished in a short time.  Mr. Freeman went to the surveyor-general's office at Oregon City to return the field notes of the surveys he had completed, and to get a contract for sub-divisions.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The camp was broken up and he discharged all his help, excepting Mr. Moody and myself.  He authorized us to remain and await his return, and to board with a family, and see to the pack horses.  In case it should become fair weather previous to his return, so the solar apparatus could be used to advantage.  I could try to survey a new township line.  I had not at that time undertaken to make any surveys with the solar compass, though I had been learning by observation about its workings.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The first week after Mr. Freeman's departure the weather continued cloudy or rainy the greater part of the time, and we could do no work on the township line, but one of the settlers desired me to make a survey of his claim, which was one mile square.  This could be done by the needle.  The lines were to be made to conform to the cardinal points, due north, south, east and west, but otherwise were not required to conform to the public surveys.  I agreed to survey it for him, and after the starting corner was pointed out, we began the work.  This was my first experience in surveying any lengthy line, my experience having been on city lots.  We were to survey around one square mile, making four equal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I managed the compass, and Mr. Moody, with another man, were chainmen.  The man for whom we were making the survey remarked that he supposed I had had a good deal of experience in that kind of work.  I did not inform him that I was then engaged in making my maiden survey.  When we had surveyed three sides of the quadrangle, and were running toward the starting point on the fourth, or last side, the owner began to predict about where we would come out in relation to the point of beginning.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He declared there would be quite a wide distance from the point of beginning.  This, as was natural, caused me to be more nervous.  However, I made no reply, and when the survey was completed, it proved to be a very satisfactory close.  This gave me more confidence, and as another man near by desired a similar survey made, we made that with equal satisfaction.</P>
160.sgm:<P>About the second week of Mr. Freeman's absence the weather cleared up and the sun shone, and Mr. Moody and myself started the survey of the township line.  I was compassman, as before, and assisted him in making the measurements with the chain.  This was an east and west line, six miles long, and was run as a "random line," as they were called.  All east and west lines were random lines, as at first surveyed, and were afterwards corrected according to the amount of error found in closing.  Later I surveyed many township lines, but I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>It was a tedious and discouraging task for a beginner.  But we worked upon it steadily, when the sun favored us, and at the end of nearly a week we reached the town corner.  I had run a due west line, and at the end fell farther from the corner than I had expected.  Consequently, I did not feel fully satisfied with the outcome of my work.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We did not correct the line, however, as I supposed Mr. Freeman would make a new survey when he should return.  In fact, we had no time to correct the line, as Mr. Freeman returned after an absence of about two weeks.  I explained to him what we had accomplished during his absence, and how the township line had closed.  After he had made an examination of his field notes of the closing six miles farther north, he said it was really the best close that had been made on that contract, it having closed with less variation, as compared with the parellel line six miles north of it.  We soon after finished the contract.</P>
160.sgm:<P>While at Oregon City Mr. Freeman took the contract to subdivide townships 9 and 10 S. range, I west; 8 and 9 S. range 2 W. and 9 S. range 3 W., it being a part of the townships of which we had surveyed the exterior lines.  This contract was dated November 28, 1851.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>After we had finished the first contract we began the subdivision.  There were 60 miles of surveys of subdivisions in each township.  At first I acted as one of the chainmen with Mr. Moody, and Mr. Freeman was compassman.  Soon after we had started, however, Mr. Freeman asked me to relieve him so as to give him time to write up his field notes.  The result was before we were half done I was compassman substantially all the time, and so continued until the contract was completed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The winter of 1851-52 was quite a rainy one in Oregon, and some time during the rainy season Mr. Freeman concluded to dispense with the camp and depend upon the settlers for accommodations.  Nearly all the settlers held their claims under the Donation Law, so called, passed by Congress September 27, 1850.</P>
160.sgm:<P>These claims principally consisted of 640 acres, equal to one square mile of land, which, when taking account of the lands unsettled, caused the residences to be at a considerable distance from each other, generally from one-half mile to three miles.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In some respects this arrangement of seeking accommodations with the settlers was satisfactory, and in other respects it was not.  In many instances, after our work for the day had been completed, when we were wet and hungry, we were obliged to travel from two to four miles before reaching a house.  The houses there at that time were log cabins, the great majority of which contained but one room, with perhaps a small "loft."</P>
160.sgm:<P>So, many times when we reached the first house after a long walk, and made the inquiry if we could be accommodated with supper, lodging and breakfast, or in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>In many cases where we stopped for the night, the cabin contained one room only, of a fair size, say 15 by 20 feet, and the family would consist of man and wife, and from five to ten children, in some instances including two or three girls nearly women grown.  Of course, families so situated could not be expected to have accommodations for three or four tired, hungry men.  However, in many cases we would prevail upon them to consent to keep us, and they would do the very best that they were able to do under the existing conditions.</P>
160.sgm:<P>They would divide their bed, putting the feather bed on the floor for the use of their guests.  This was done for us in many instances.  After managing in this way <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>Later I made it a point to get into the inside of the house before the request was made for accommodations for the night.  I would not even await an invitation to step inside, but no sooner than the door was open I would at once enter, if possible, without being conspicuously ungentlemanly.  Sometimes I would inquire for a drink of water and gain admission thereby.  Once inside I found the battle more than half won.  We could then almost always induce the good people to keep us.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The surveying of the public lands may be thought by many to be light, easy work, but it is really hard and rough.  The surveyors are subjected to much exposure, especially in the winter or rainy season.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The winters in Oregon, as in California, are called "rainy seasons."  There is much rainy weather and some snow, but the snows are usually damp and soon melt away in the valleys.  The weather is seldom very cold, but is sometimes cold enough to cause thin ice to form on the surface of standing water.</P>
160.sgm:<P>During the rainy season in Oregon the small streams were full and all the sloughs and swampy places were at times overflowed with water.  At that time ferries had been established across some of the larger streams at certain points.  The smaller streams had to be forded.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>We had very much wading to do in crossing streams, sloughs and swamps, quite often having to wade places where the water was not less than three or four feet deep.  The water was necessarily cold, but after a few days of experience we would become accustomed to it, so we would not mind it very much.  When a pair of new boots were purchased, before they were worn, a slit would be made in each one, near the sole, at the inside of the instep to give drainage for the water to pass out.  We had a great amount of similar wading to do on this contract.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I will relate only one from many experiences which came my way during the fall of 1851.  When Mr. Freeman was surveying the meridian line, he had a transit with his party, to make triangulations to distant mountain peaks and other topograpical objects that might come within range on either side.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This transit, from a fall or some other accident, became injured, so it became entirely useless for the purpose of making triangulations, and it was left by Mr. Freeman at a farmhouse.  Previous to his visit to Oregon City in November, he concluded to take the transit along with him to the surveyor-general's office.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One morning he desired me to go for the instrument and bring it to camp.  He gave me the name of the man where it had been left, and the location of the house was pointed out on the plan.  As I remember, the location was about twelve or fourteen miles distant.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Our camp was to be removed on that day, so that on my return it would be necessary for me to pursue a different course from the one in going.  I started and found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>It was considerably into the afternoon when I started on the home journey and I did not suppose I would be able to reach camp that evening, but concluded to take the chances of finding a house where I could remain over night.  After traveling two or three miles I reached a stream of considerable depth, which I waded, coming out pretty thoroughly soaked.  A short distance farther on I entered a large prairie.  The weather was cloudy, but it did not rain very much.  I kept on and was able to pursue the proper course by the help of the instrument, until it became dark, when a dense fog settled down upon the plain.  I could see only a short distance and was not able to see to read the bearing of the needle of the transit.  I had no other guide to direct my course except a very slight movement of the atmosphere, which was scarcely perceptible.</P>
160.sgm:<P>However, I kept the course as well as I was able to do, thinking the most probable outcome would be that I would be obliged to remain on the prairie until the next morning.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some time between eight and nine o'clock in the evening, I heard the low of a cow at my left, at about a right angle with the course I was then traveling.  I immediately shaped my course toward the point from which the sound came, supposing there would be a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>After a time I reached the opposite side and soon after saw a dim light through the fog.  I went in the direction of the light and soon reached a house, where the inmates had retired for the night.  I found the people to be very hospitable.  The good lady of the house arose and prepared a supper for me, and during the night dried my wet clothing before the fire.  The next morning I traveled to camp.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We completed the contract about the first of March and immediately after went to Oregon City.  The pay at this time for chainmen, axemen and campmen on the surveys was about two dollars a day.  Mr. Freeman paid me a larger compensation, but I do not remember the price.  After our arrival at Oregon City, Mr. Elder said to me that he had resigned his position as chief clerk at the office of the surveyor-general, and should go on the field work.  He was to have a contract, and desired me to work in his employ.  I agreed to do so.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He received a contract dated March 25, 1852.  This contract was for the survey of the exterior lines of townships 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 south, of range 3 and 4 west, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>This contract was principally in the Yamhill valley, westerly and southwesterly from Oregon City.  The work was all within 25 miles of the surveyor-general's office.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Elder had procured me a solar compass, for which I paid him $350.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We began the contract about the first of April and finished it near the end of May.  I was compassman on substantially all the lines of the contract, while Mr. Elder wrote the field notes and made the plats.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I received a commission as a United States deputy surveyor, April 25, 1852, from John B. Preston, surveyor-general of Oregon.</P>
160.sgm:<P>As soon as the contract was completed we went to Oregon City, and Mr. Elder proposed that my name should be associated with his in a contract for subdivisions, so as to be able to obtain a contract of ten townships, instead of five, the number usually awarded to one deputy in a single contract.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I was to work for him and have charge of one party, while he would have charge of a second party.  I agreed to this.  The contract to Elder &amp; Webster was dated June 8, 1852, and was for the subdivisions of townships 3 and 5 south range, 2 west; 1, 3, 4 and 5 south range, 3 west; and 2, 3, 4 and 5 south range, 4 west.  This included all the townships, with two exceptions, of which we hade made the surveys of the exterior lines, and included two townships in range 2 which had been surveyed by Deputy William Ives.  The number of miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>In this contract were portions of the Willamette and the Yamhill Rivers, which were measured.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We left Oregon City on or about June 9th.  We made up two parties.  Mr. Elder managed one party and I the other.  In my party were Henry S. Gile, from Alfred, Maine, a very intelligent man, who acted as one of my chainmen; James M. Fudge from Sangamon county, Illinois, also a very fine young man (he was killed by the explosion of a steamboat boiler a short distance above the falls at Oregon City, in the spring of 1854); Andrew Murphy, an intelligent Irish-American citizen from St. Louis, Mo.; and James O'Connor, as compassman.  The last named was an inhabitant of Oregon, a young man.  At this time I do not remember the names of Mr. Elder's party with the exception of Matthew Murphy, a brother to Andrew, and who assisted Mr. Elder in the management of the compass before the contract was completed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We had good working forces on this contract and consequently had a very pleasant time.  I made considerably more than half of the surveys with my party.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We were engaged on this contract about four months, or until about the 8th of October, when we went to Oregon City and made up our field notes and plats, and returned them to the surveyor-general's office.  Mr. Elder paid me something more than $100 a month for my work.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>My health had continued good all through the summer, until just previous to the time of finishing of the contract, when I was taken ill but managed to lead my party and do my work until the survey was completed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After we went to Oregon City I did not improve.  I procured some medicine once or twice from an English physician.  Mr. Elder said I was afflicted with a fever of some kind, and I thought later that probably he was right.  Be that as it may, I was quite sick for three or four weeks, although I was out more or less every day during the whole time.  Finally, I began to improve, and about the first of December I had nearly recovered my usual good health.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Up to this time I had had no contract on my own account, but it was understood that I should receive a contract of subdivisions for winter.  This was under President Filmore's administration and of course Mr. Preston, the surveyor-general was a Whig, politically, as was Mr. Elder.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One day when I was in the surveyor-general's office, Mr. Preston called me into his private office and inquired in regard to my politics.  This surprised me as I had supposed he knew, and I could not help wondering how much bearing my reply would have in awarding me a contract.  I immediately said I was a Democrat, and asked if that would make any difference about awarding me a contract.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He said it would not with him, but with surveyor-generals generally a distinction was made, and contracts were only awarded to deputies of their own political faith.</P>
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160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SEAL OF CALIFORNIA IN ITS EARLIER DAYS.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>Mr. Preston was a fine man, and had always been very kind to me.  I never knew the object of his making the inquiry, but I afterwards supposed he did it to test my honesty, and to see if I would equivocate in any way in relation to my political principles.  If I had pursued such a course it is possible I might not have fared as well as I did.  He said that a majority of his deputies were Democrats.  Mr. Freeman, William Ives, and his brother, Butler Ives, and Joseph Hunt were all of that party.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He awarded me a contract, No. 27, dated December 1, 1852, for the subdivisions of township No. 14 south, ranges 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 west, estimated at 315 miles, at $10 per mile.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I made up my party and left Oregon City about a week later, going up the River Willamette on a steamer to Salem, where I had arranged to have the "pack horses" meet us, and where we camped near the river.  A storm began soon after we arrived at Salem, and it continued for two or three days, so it was impracticable to attempt to move up the valley until the rain should cease.  Our work was about 50 miles southerly from Salem.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After three or four days the weather became fair and pleasant, and we packed up our camp and moved southerly up the valley of the Willamette.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The river, with all the streams, was very much swollen from the recent rains, and we were obliged to do considerable wading, some of which was quite deep.  As I had but a short time previously recovered from quite a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I felt the cold quite severely on the first night out from Salem.  On the second evening I had, as I believe, as severe a cold as I ever experienced in my whole life.  After the other men had turned in for the night I inquired if any one of them had anything that would cure a cold.  One of them replied that he had some cayenne pepper in his valise and told me where I could find it, and he told me that a teaspoonful in hot water was a proper dose.  After heating some water I put in a tablespoonful of the cayenne, stirred it thoroughly, and drank dregs and all.  I am now convinced it was the warmest dose I ever drank, but I immediately laid down for the night, and when I arose the next morning, my cold had nearly disappeared.  It troubled me very little afterward.  This, I believe, was the only serious cold I experienced while in Oregon.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We were about three days in making the trip from Salem and we began work December 17, in township No. 14 south, range 3, west.  The Willamette River ran through township 14, range 4 and 5, west.  The Callapooza, a small river, also passed through some of the townships.</P>
160.sgm:<P>There was much rainy weather through the last part of December, and also during January, 1853, all the streams and swales being full of water.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I don't recollect the names of the men who made up my party, with the exception of one, whose name was McDonald.  Whenever we got into a hard place, he was always complaining, and would say that he should quit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>We finished one township on January 3, and commenced upon the one next west in range 4.  The Willamette River intersected the western boundary of this township, which it crossed four times, and also crossed its south boundary.  We had completed about two-thirds of the easterly part of this township when one day it became necessary to cross the Willamette River and bring out a line before we could make any farther progress.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I made some inquiries of some of the settlers in relation to a boat, and learned of a man nearby who owned a "dugout," but upon seeing him he declared it would be impossible to cross the river in its swollen condition.  We went to the river where the boat was located and the situation for crossing did really look to be somewhat dangerous to be undertaken at that time with such a craft.  I had many times used similar boats to cross streams.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A "dugout" is a boat made from a log, being dug out, as its name implies, and many of them are not very steady on the water, overturning very easily.  This was one of the unsteady kind, and the river at the point where the boat lay at that time was very rapid.  A short distance below was the upper end of an island, against which a large quantity of drift timber had lodged and against which the current was lashing itself with great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>Possibly we might meet with some accident, and if so, we probably would fare hard.  They concluded to make the attempt.  I took two men into the boat with me, together with the instruments.  The men sat on the bottom of the boat to steady it, and after giving them their instructions, I pulled the boat into the current.  Though the passage was difficult we went safely across to the other side of the river.  But our troubles had only begun.  The lowlands along the river were overflowed to a depth of several feet; in places it was so deep that it was impossible to wade it, so that it was necessary to make triangulations.  The country was timbered, and brushy, and the lines crossed the island.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We were wading in the water nearly all day.  I believe now, considering the water, brush and all the conditions there present, it was the most difficult line of equal length that I encountered on all the surveys I made while in Oregon.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>It crossed the river at a little more than one-half mile from the corner at which we began, and we worked in the water nearly the entire day, but got the line across before night.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At the time when we were wading in the deep cold water, Mr. McDonald began to complain as usual, and said he would quit the job.  I was feeling a little out of patience myself, and I said to him that he had been saying about the same thing whenever we got into a hard place, and that I had become tired of hearing it.  I advised him either to stop such talk or quit at once.  He replied that he would quit after that day.  I said, "all right."  The next morning when we prepared to start for our work, he said to me that he supposed I understood he was to quit work.  I remarked that I had heard him say as much when we were in the water the day previous, but that I had concluded that probably he had changed his mind in the meantime.  He went to work again and continued for several days, when he concluded to quit, and his companion went with him.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This broke up our party, when it was near the first of February.  My contract at that date was less than one-half completed.  As I was getting short of supplies that were impossible to procure from the settlers, I sent the campman with the horses to Albany, it being about twenty-five miles northerly, down the Willamette valley, and gave him orders to procure such supplies as were needed, and to hire two good men.  I remained alone in an unfinished log house while he was absent, about one week, and was engaged in copying my field notes.  He returned with provisions and brought along with him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>Before my return to Oregon City, Mr. Elder had arranged for a double contract in the Umqua valley, and had the name of Harry S. Gile associated with his own in a similar way that he had my name used in the contract a year previous.</P>
160.sgm:<P>As at that time I could have no contract of my own until later, Mr. Elder suggested that I go with him to the Umqua valley.  As Mr. Gile had had but little experience as a compassman I could help him survey the township lines, and return in season to get a contract of my own, which would probably be available later.  I at once agreed to his proposition.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The location of the contract was about 150 miles south of Oregon City on an air line, and included the best part of the Umqua valley.  It consisted of eight or ten townships, both the exterior and interior lines, or between 700 and 800 miles of surveys.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We left Oregon City for Umqua about the middle of April, 1853.  It was a good country to survey, and Mr. Elder made it well.  I remained until the contract was completed, some time near September 1st, or between four and five months.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I surveyed the larger part of the township lines and considerably more than one-half of the subdivision.  Mr. Gile worked one party, and I the other, while Mr. Elder copied the field notes and drew the maps.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A short time previous to the completion of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>The Rouge River valley was about seventy-five miles south-easterly from the place where we were then at work, and the understanding was to move our parties over there from the Umqua country, and thus save the breaking up of the parties.  I at once consented to the proposition, and Mr. Elder was to start for Oregon City at once, both of us feeling certain he would be able to procure the contract.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Before he had started, however, we received information that an Indian war had broken out at the Roughe River valley.  That put a stop to our proposed contract.  Of course, we could do no surveying during an Indian war.  The war continued during the succeeding three or four months.</P>
160.sgm:<P>General Joe Lane was then in Oregon, and with the United States regular army that was stationed there, together with volunteers, he secured peace.  But a large number of the white inhabitants lost their lives during the outbreak.  It happened very fortunate for our surveying party that it did not occur a month later, when we should probably have been surveying in that valley, and probably some of us would have lost our scalps.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The war was said to have been caused by the abuse of the daughter of the chief by some gold miners who were at work on Rouge River, and as the perpetrators of the foul deed immediately left the place, so that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>One day when all was in readiness, as he supposed, the Indians commenced shooting down the whites indiscriminately in Jacksonville, the principal village of the Rouge River settlement.  In this instance, as in one or two other Indian outbreaks that I knew something about while I was in the Indian country, the trouble was caused by ill treatment of the Indians by the whites, and I firmly believe the same, or similar causes, have produced similar results in the great majority of Indian wars and massacres since the discovery of America by Columbus.  It is my opinion that the poor Indian--naturally a noble race of men--have been most shamefully and wickedly abused and mistreated.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I will give just one instance that came under my observation, as an illustration.  In Oregon City I became acquainted with a man by the name of Angel.  About the time the Rouge River gold mines were discovered and began to be worked, Mr. Angel concluded to remove there.  Previous to his removal, as I was talking with him in relation to the matter, he said he was the owner of a good rifle, and that Indians were quite plentiful in the Rouge River country.  He said he intended to shoot the first Rouge River Indian that he should see after his arrival at that place.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I had some argument with him in regard to the justice or propriety of committing such an act, but he persisted that his mind was fully settled, and he would certainly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Mr. Angel removed to Rouge River, and I later learned that he shot three or four Indians at different times, while he was standing in his own doorway, and that he made a boast of it, but that he was killed during the Rouge River Indian outbreak.  Provided I had the truth of the matter, I certainly believe he received his just deserts.  Poor Mr. Angel!</P>
160.sgm:<P>We had a pleasant time while engaged upon the Umqua contract, and after it was completed we returned to Oregon City.  Mr. Elder paid me $185 a month for the time I was employed, nearly five months.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One incident that I failed to relate in its proper place I will insert here.  When writing in relation to the work on the contract in the winter of 1852-3, I wrote that I sent the campman to Albany, where he hired two men.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One of these men had had very sore eyes, from which he had not fully recovered.  He said it was his opinion the disease was contagious, as he believed he had contracted it from another person.  A short time previous to the finishing of that contract, one of my eyes felt as though some foreign substance was in it.  I endeavored to remove it, but with no good results.  The eye soon became inflamed and troubled me badly.  Within two or three days later the other eye was affected in a similar manner as the first.  They were in bad condition and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I applied to the English physician I have previously mentioned, and he gave me some salve, which he directed me to apply at night.  I applied it as directed.  It seemed almost like putting fire into my eyes.  After I had applied it for two or three nights, my eyes instead of improving, as I had reason to suppose they would do, became worse, and in the morning after I had succeeded in getting my eyes open I threw the box of salve into the street.  From that time my eyes began to improve.  I wore colored glasses for a time to protect them.</P>
160.sgm:<P>When I left Oregon City for the Umqua with Mr. Elder, although my eyes had improved some, they were very sensitive to light.  They continued to improve, but when I commenced work they troubled me greatly.  I could see double--that is, I could see two objects where there was only one.  Suppose I was looking at a man some distance away, I would seem to see two men, instead of one.</P>
160.sgm:<P>However, my eyes continued to improve slowly but steadily, and at length regained their normal condition, so far as my sight was concerned.  Still it was a long time before they became strong, so as to bear any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>At the presidential election that took place in November, 1852, Franklin Pierce of New Hampshire was elected president of the United States.  This caused a change in the national administration from Whig to Democratic.  After I arrived at Oregon City from the Umqua valley, Mr. Preston said to me that he supposed that Mr. Pierce would send a man there to take his place as surveyor-general, and that he would be removed from the office.  He also said that as I had been crowded out of a contract in the previous spring, which I was really entitled to, he would give me my first choice of a contract from any of the lands at that time available to be surveyed.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After we had examined the plans, I selected for a contract the country west of the Willamette River, including the Long Tom valley.  The contract was dated September 19, 1853, and included the survey of the 4th standard parallel south of range 5 and 6 west, the township lines of townships No. 16, 17 and 18, south of range No. 5 west, and 14, 15, 16, 17 and 18, south of range No. 6 west, or so much of these as was suitable for settlement, estimated at 369 miles, at $12 per mile.  The west line of some of these townships ran into the coast range of mountains, and included some lands that were unfit for cultivation.  This was the largest single contract, as I believe, that had been awarded to any deputy in Oregon.  It proved to be a good contract, notwithstanding I had some very difficult township lines to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>As soon as practicable after the contract was signed, I made up my party and left Oregon City, September 23, 1853.  My party consisted of A. M. Addington and Granville Blake, chainmen, and John E. Boyd and Joseph Hawkins.  All were from the western states.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I began work on the survey September 28.  The weather was fair for the most part until the 13th of October, and it was not very stormy and bad through November.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The west line of the west tier of townships for nearly its entire length, or thirty miles, was in the coast range of mountains.  It was very difficult to survey.  The spurs and ravines made it up or down nearly the whole distance.  Much of the way it was very steep.  The mountains were heavily timbered.  To survey these lines it was necessary to pack some provisions and take along.  When night came we would build a fire, and after partaking of such eatables as we had managed to carry with us, lie down to sleep.  To survey the two lines of a township in this broken country usually kept us in the mountains three or four days at a time, and we would carry with us provisions sufficient to last that length of time.  Each one would carry his own pack.</P>
160.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Before the middle of October we had completed the lines of the three townships of range 5, which was in a fine country to survey, and had made some progress upon the other range.  In cloudy weather we worked upon the subdivisions.  There was considerable cloudy and rainy weather in November, while December proved still worse.  I completed the subdivisions of the three townships of range 5, and on December 9th went to Marysville and copied my field notes, as the weather was so cloudy and stormy that I could not work to any advantage.  I returned from Marysville December 21, and worked a few days, when there came a snow storm.  The snow fell to the depth of ten or twelve inches and it was light and dry like a New England snow in mid-winter.  It cleared away cold, and we had really a New Hampshire winter for about two weeks.  The snow blew and ice formed over the streams and other exposed waters six or eight inches in thickness.  This was a very unusual occurrence for Oregon.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This state of affairs continued for more than two weeks, or until the 27th of January, when it became warm, and the snow soon melted away.</P>
160.sgm:<P>During the cold spell we could do no work at surveying, but keep ourselves as comfortable as possible in our tent.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In December and January we worked only twenty-seven and one-half days.  February was a better month, but we had some stormy weather.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I finished the contract April 21, 1854, just seven months from the time of its date.  We worked 133 days on the field work and averaged very nearly three miles for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I copied and returned my field notes and plats to the office.  At this time, my friend, Mr. Elder, had returned to his home in Illinois, and Mr. James E. Freeman had gone to California and was employed on the public surveys there.  After my work on the field notes and maps was completed, which kept me busy for a considerable time, I was one day near the Willamette below Oregon City a short distance picking some strawberries for pastime, when a gentleman accosted me and inquired if my name was Webster.  I replied that it was.  He said he was agent for some coal mines on Bellingham Bay, at the north end of Puget Sound, near the British boundary and opposite to Vancouver Island.  He represented a company in New York, and had come to Oregon City for a surveyor to go there and make a survey of the land upon which the mines were located.  He went to the surveyor-general's office, where I had been recommended to him, and he asked me if I would go with him and do the work.</P>
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160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I agreed to do the job, which was a matter of a few days' work only, after we should have reached the place.  He was to return to Olympia, situated at the head of Puget Sound, immediately, where I was to meet him.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I started on the trip June 11th, and went down the Willamette to Portland in a steamer.  From Portland I boarded another steamer and traveled down the Willamette and Columbia Rivers about 70 miles to the mouth of the Cowlitz River.  From this point I went up the Cowlitz River in an Indian canoe, propelled by two or three Indian men with poles, about 35 or 40 miles, as far as the Cowlitz Farms Landing.  From Cowlitz Landing I rode horse back 50 or 60 miles to Olympia, at the head of Puget Sound, where I arrived June 16.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At Olympia I learned the agent had gone ahead down the Sound, and had left instructions for me to follow with the mail carrier to Alki Point, near the present site of Seattle, about 60 miles from Olympia, where he proposed to meet me.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We left Olympia in the afternoon in a small skiff, and made a landing at Steilacoom for the night.  This was about 20 miles from Olympia.  Upon reaching Alki Point early the next morning I met the agent, who had engaged three Indians with a large Indian cedar canoe to take us to Bellingham Bay, which I believe was about 100 miles northerly.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On leaving Oregon City I had heard of an Indian outbreak at Puget Sound, and I learned that there had been an attack at Bellingham Bay.  I was advised to abandon the trip, but I had resolved to keep ahead.</P>
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160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Two other men, friends of the agent, went with us from Alki Point (Seattle), which, including the three Indians, made seven in our party.  After leaving Alki Point we encountered some dangerous experiences with our canoe on the Sound and got thoroughly drenched with water several times, but the Indians succeeded in keeping the cedar canoe right side up.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At length we reached Bellingham Bay, which I believe was the same location where the city of Whatcom, Washington, is now situated.  When we arrived we found five or six men, which was all the inhabitants then residing in that vicinity.  They occupied a small log cabin, which was the only building within many miles.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This was the exact location where two men of the same party had been killed by the Indians a short time previous.  The door of the cabin was literally riddled with bullets.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The trouble had been with the Indians from up the British coast, near Fort Snelling.  It was a very intellectual tribe of red men, who were tall and well proportioned, with a skin almost as white as many of the white race.</P>
160.sgm:<P>A number of the Indians had been employed for a considerable time at one of the sawmills along the sound, and had been very satisfactory laborers, when for some cause they concluded to quit work.  The proprietor refused to pay them the amount due at that time unless they should continue.  A dispute arose, when the proprietor drew his revolver and shot one of the Indians dead on the spot.  The other Indians immediately left for their homes.  This caused the trouble.</P>
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160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<illus entity="a160-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WARSHIP PORTSMOUTH WHICH CARRIED THE AMERICAN FLAG INTO SAN FRANCISCO IN 1846.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>The chief of the tribe fitted out a war party and they came down the coast to the sound in large war canoes, and at once created a general alarm at the settlements all along the sound.  These war canoes were made from giant cedar logs, and neatly and elaborately ornamented.  Some were of sufficient capacity to carry 50 warriors, each one with a paddle.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The men at the coal camp at Whatcom had heard of the danger and had taken the precaution to keep out a guard at night, two at a time.  They supposed the Indians would approach them by water in case they made an attack, consequently they adopted the plan of keeping guard in a boat, anchored a short distance from shore.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On the night of the attack, two men were on guard in the boat as usual, when the men in the cabin heard shots at the landing, only a few rods distant.  Thoroughly alarmed they took to the brush for safety.  The Indians fired many shots into the house, but the men had made their escape.  The two men on guard were supposed to have been surprised and killed, but their bodies had not been discovered when I was there.  One evening about sunset we heard much shooting out in the bay, but it was too far away for us to see so as to ascertain the cause.  We supposed it to be a war party of the Indians, which was later learned to be the fact.  They were exchanging shots with some men in boats.</P>
160.sgm:<P>That night we expected an attack at our exposed camp, and we were all armed and prepared to defend ourselves as well as possible under the conditions.  But they did not trouble us and we heard nothing further from them during our stay.</P>
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160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I completed the survey as was desired.  As I now remember I surveyed two square miles of land, on which the coal mines cropped out.  After the surveys were completed we left Whatcom on our return, and arrived at Steilacoom on the evening of the 3d of July, 1854.  Here we celebrated Independence day and remained until the 5th, after which I returned to Oregon City over the same route I had traveled when on my way out, having been absent about twenty-eight days.</P>
160.sgm:<P>After my return Colonel Gardiner, the surveyor-general, offered me the work to finish the remainder of a contract somewhere in the northern part of the territory, upon which a deputy had been at work and had failed to finish it.  So far as I was able to learn in regard to it, it was located in a rough, brushy, timbered country, and was not a desirable piece of work.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Yet, as I learned, the deputy who first took the contract and undertook to do the work, did not attend to his business as he should have done, which was probably the real cause of his failure.</P>
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160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>HOMEWARD BOUND</P>
160.sgm:<P>I was satisfied that I could make the work pay me some profit, but it was not a very desirable contract.  Still, if I refused to accept this offer from Colonel Gardiner, I could not afterwards consistently ask him for a better contract.  If I should accept it and finish the work, I might later be in a position to receive a better offer from him.  The most desirable country in Oregon, lying west of the Cascade mountains, had already been surveyed, or was under contract.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At first I was undecided which course to pursue.  It seemed to be a turning point in my life.  Should I engage to do the work, I might perhaps remain in Oregon for years to come, and possibly never return home.  At that time it was about five years and three months since I had left home, and I had learned that the longer the absence was continued, the less strong my desire to return.  But I soon came to a decision to go back to my old New Hampshire home, if for nothing more than a visit.</P>
160.sgm:<P>I thought that perhaps this was as good an opportunity to do so as would offer itself in the near future.  Consequently, I made arrangements with Mr. Preston to draw the money for the balance of the surveys for which I had not yet been paid, and to forward the same to me at Hudson, N. H., my home.  After having been a resident of the territory of Oregon for some more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>To convey a faint conception of the many vicissitudes of the surveyors employed in making the surveys upon the public lands of the United States in sparsely settled regions, I will relate two or three incidents from many similar experiences which occurred while I was engaged upon the public surveys of Oregon.</P>
160.sgm:<P>One morning while making surveys of township lines, previous to leaving camp I gave the campmen their orders (I had two at that time) to move the camp during the day six miles east, or as near that point as they could find wood and water for camp purposes.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We were to start from the township corner that morning, and survey a line due east.  Provided it should prove a good country for surveying, we could nearly or quite reach the opposite township corner, a distance of six miles, where I had ordered the campmen to pitch camp.</P>
160.sgm:<P>This was in the late autumn when the days were short, and at that season we took no lunch with us.  The usual time for us to finish breakfast and leave camp in the morning was as early as sunrise.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On the day mentioned, our line was principally through a timbered and brushy country, so when night came we had completed but three and one-half miles.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Just before it began to grow dark, we left the survey and started east, expecting to find our camp within two or three miles.  We had traveled about that distance when we came to a wagon trail or road, the course of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Under ordinary conditions we could be heard at least one mile, and sometimes, when conditions were more favorable, nearly or quite two miles.  As we heard no reply from the campmen, we followed the road south about three miles, but could hear nothing from our camp.  We then retraced our steps to the point at which we first intersected the road, and followed it in the opposite, or northerly direction, for about an equal distance, but could hear no reply to our calls, when we felt certain the camp could not be in that direction.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We again retraced our way to about the point at which we had at first intersected the road.  We had seen no house on that day.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It was then about eleven o'clock at night.  I saw a place by the roadside where there was an abundance of dry wood, and I said to the party that I should camp there for the night.  They all concluded to adopt a similar course.  We started a good blaze and remained near it until morning.</P>
160.sgm:<P>When morning came we started to find either our camp or some house.  One of the men went with me, and we traveled in a southerly direction.  The two other men went in another direction.</P>
160.sgm:<P>About ten o'clock in the forenoon we came to a small cabin.  We entered it and found a man there who was living alone.  I asked him if he could prepare something eatable for us, as we had eaten nothing since early in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:the morning on the day previous.  He replied he was alone and that he could do nothing for us.  I said to him: "Have you any provisions of any kind about your house?"  His reply was that he had a little.  I said that "we <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
160.sgm:<P>The next day I commenced work again without looking for camp any farther, but selected a line in another direction, which was through a country with settlements.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We worked three or four days, stopping at the houses for accommodations at night, before we heard anything from camp.  Then the campmen found us, and I afterwards learned, although they would not admit it at that time, that instead of going six miles east, they traveled six miles south, and camped about nine miles from the point where they were ordered to go.</P>
160.sgm:<P>On another occasion, at the time I was engaged in running a party for Mr. Elder, upon going to camp one evening when it was nearly dark, we followed a line into a brushy bottom, to correct a quarter section post that had been set on a random line by the other party at work for Mr. Elder.  One man accompanied me, who was present with the other party when the post was located.  We followed the surveyed line and found the post <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>At that time we knew the location of our camp, as it was not to be removed on that day.  It was not more than a mile distant in a straight line.  To follow the line back, upon which we had come, until we should reach the open land, and then go to camp would double the distance to be traveled.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The man with me proposed to take the short cut through the brush, and claimed to know the way as he had been over the same route with the other party.  It was becoming quite dark, and I consented to his leadership, against my better judgment, which was something I seldom did, to follow another in the woods.</P>
160.sgm:<P>The route was very brushy, with much fallen timber, and being quite dark, our progress was slow.  We continued to travel, making our way through the tangled brush as best we could.  At length we came to a small river, from which we drank some water, and where we rested for a short time.</P>
160.sgm:<P>It being dark, it was impossible to read the bearing from the instrument.  It was my opinion that we had not traveled altogether in a direct line.  My companion desired to cross the stream, but I was convinced that we were on the same side as was our camp.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We again started and traveled until about eleven o'clock, previous to which I had utterly abandoned all hope of reaching camp on that night.  As we came to a tall white fir tree, I said to my companion that I should camp under that tree for the night, as I believed we had traveled in a circle, at least to some extent, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I climbed the tree, probably to a height of nearly 100 feet, to break off some twigs, on which to lie down for the remainder of the night.  I remained in the tree for a considerable time, listening to the noise that came from my companion as he made his way through the brush.  His progress was slow, as ours had been, and I could distinctly hear the brush crack, but instead of keeping a straight line, as he supposed he was doing, he soon began to bear away to the left in a curved line.  He continued to circle to the left, but not for once did he pass beyond my hearing.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In about three-quarters of an hour after he left me, I could hear him approaching from nearly the opposite direction from that in which he had started.  I descended the tree and awaited his approach.  When he had reached a point within a few rods of me, he hallooed.  I answered his call.  He seemed surprised and came to me.  His first question was how I came there.  It was some time before I could convince him of the fact that I had remained during his absence at the same place where he had last parted from me.</P>
160.sgm:<P>He thought he had traveled in a straight line, and when he first heard my voice in answer to his call, he believed he was almost in camp.  When he became convinced that he had passed around in a circle, and had made no progress toward camp, he seemed to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>These are sample or specimen cases, and many other similar, more or less varied experiences could be related, if space would permit, such as sleeping out in the mountains in the winter season, with one blanket only, with a cold drenching rain falling all through the night.  I have awakened to find myself completely covered with snow two or three inches in depth, with the exception of my face.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At that time there were roaming in the coast and cascade ranges of mountains and valleys numerous wild animals, such as grizzly and black bears, cougars or mountain lions, wild cats, gray wolves and coyotes, deer, moose and many other species of animals.  There were also two or three kinds of rattlesnakes.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Sometimes we would approach within sight of one of the animals, which would seem to be pleased to increase its distance between us as rapidly as possible.  They are savage, ferocious animals when aroused, but when they are respected and passed at a distance without being interfered with in any way, they are seemingly not to be feared.  To keep peace with them, their rights as monarchs of the forests should always be respected.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In San Francisco I met Mr. James E. Freeman, who was about to start on a survey of the public lands of California, and he desired me to assist him in doing the work.  He offered me a salary of ten dollars per day and board for the entire time we should be absent from San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>I also found my uncle, Alfred Cummings, in San Francisco, occupied with carpenter work, and he had concluded to go home with me.</P>
160.sgm:<P>San Francisco had greatly increased in size and population, and had improved its condition during my absence.  I remained there eight or ten days awaiting the departure of a steamer for Panama.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We left San Francisco near the end of July and took passage on the steamer Yankee Blade.  Before reaching Panama the coal became exhausted, and we landed on a small, uninhabited island, where wood was cut and carried aboard the vessel in boats for fuel, in order to complete the voyage.  We were then within two or three days sail of Panama.</P>
160.sgm:<P>In due time we reached Panama, where we landed and remained over night.  At that time the Panama railroad had been completed from Aspinwall to a point about nine miles distant from the town of Panama, and near the summit of the isthmus.  We left Panama the next morning, riding on mules, which were provided us by the steamship company, anticipating that we would reach Aspinwall, on the Atlantic shore, and board the steamer for New York that evening.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We reached the end of the railroad without any undue delay, and boarded a train of cars for Aspinwall, but from some cause or causes, to the passengers unknown, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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160.sgm:<P>There were no conveniences for sleeping in the cars.  They were full of passengers and the atmosphere was very bad, caused by poor ventilation.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Some time during the early part of the night I went to the rear platform of one of the cars and laid down and soon fell asleep.  This was a platform I supposed the passengers would not use to pass over when going out or into the cars.</P>
160.sgm:<P>During the night some one in passing out in the darkness came in contact with me, which caused me to awake, and I spoke to him.  He told me if I should continue to lie there in the night air, with no covering, I should almost certainly contract the deadly Panama fever.  I replied that I would take the risk, and again fell asleep and enjoyed a very comfortable rest for the night.  The next day the train took us through to Aspinwall with but little delay.</P>
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160.sgm:<P>What caused the necessity to detain several hundreds of passengers in a train of cars for three days and two nights while traveling a distance of less than fifty miles, and where there was very little accommodation for refreshments or sleep, I could never comprehend.</P>
160.sgm:<P>At Aspinwall we boarded one of the steamers for New York.  We had a fine passage to New York, where we arrived without any undue delay.</P>
160.sgm:<P>We remained in New York over one night, when we proceeded on our journey home, where we arrived near the last of August, 1854, after an absence of a little more than five years and four months.</P>
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160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ADDENDA.<LB>THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.</HEAD>
160.sgm:<P>There are conflicting accounts as to who was the real discoverer of gold in California.  Long before its actual existence was known the country was pictured as a marvelous Eldorado.  As early as 1524 Cortes was given a dazzling description of a "wonderful island in the Pacific exceedingly rich in pearls and gold."  Drake said in his journal, "the country seems to promise rich veins of gold."  The native Indians claimed that gold existed among the streams, and in 1766 Jonathan Carver wrote with a spirit of prophecy that "probably in the future ages the land may be found to contain more riches in their bowels than those of Indostan."  So account after account is given premising the existence of the precious mineral, until in 1847 Capt. Charles Bennett discovered gold near Sutter's mill, while there in partnership with James W. Marshall, who has since been credited as its discoverer.  Bennett has a marble shaft standing in the Odd Fellows' cemetery at Salem, Ore., stating that he was the "Discoverer of Gold in California, and Fell in the Defense of His Country at Walla Walla," in 1855, fighting the Indians.  Marshall has a more pretentious statue at Coloma, Cal., proclaiming him as the discoverer of the yellow nugget that started the stream of golden wealth from the Pacific slope, which was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Until 1847 California had remained a part of Mexico, and was very sparsely settled.  At that time, with the exception of a small settlement of Mormons established by Brigham Young in July, 1847, on the shore of Salt Lake, Utah, the country between the Missouri line, near Fort Independence, and the Sacramento valley, a distance of more than two thousand miles, was an almost unbroken wilderness, without civilized inhabitants, and spoken of as the "Great American Desert."  As every schoolboy knows, or ought to know, Col. John C. Fremont was the real conqueror of California, and immediately the treaty was signed, which made it a part of the United States, the discovery of gold was proclaimed to the world, and instantaneously the invasion began.</P>
160.sgm:<P>Not alone to Fremont and the Gold Seekers belongs the entire credit of conquering California and transforming it into a wonderland.  Before the doughty Pathfinder had found his way hither the sloop of war Portsmouth, built at the Kittery navy yard just opposite of the city, whose name the gallant vessel was to bear, in 1843.  She sailed from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Not all of the Gold Seekers of '49 went overland, as Mr. Webster and his party did.  Considerable debating was done at the time as to which was the best route; around Cape Horn with its storms and vicissitudes, to say nothing of the longer period of time required to make the passage; across the Isthmus of Panama, with its vexatious delays and constant dangers from tropical diseases; or by the Overland Trail, which seemed to promise a more speedy arrival at the destination, though that was fraught with great peril from hostile redmen and the hardships of crossing an unknown country.</P>
160.sgm:<P>While naturally of a different experience the story of those who went to the Land of Gold around Cape Horn is not less interesting than that of those who performed the tedious and terrible trip across the plains.  Besides the perils of the deep to be met and overcome were the sufferings from scurvy and other complaints belonging to a life on the sea in those days.  After all those who fared worse were the ones who tried the middle route to find themselves stranded in a tropical country unable to find ways and means of crossing the stretch of land lying between the oceans.  Some tried the journey on foot, to perish by the way or reach the western shore, only to find <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
160.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
160.sgm:<P>Whichever way they went, upon their arrival in the gold fields the mines proved a wonderful leveler of the classes of men.  No distinction of rank was known there.  Lawyers, doctors, ministers, men who wore kid gloves and tall hats in the East, were glad to dig in the trenches with the lowliest of laborers, all working for the same reward, the golden talisman of fortune.  Unable for any reason, to succeed in the mines, some sought other ways of earning a living, if not a fortune, and so the schoolmaster sawed firewood, the erstwhile judge of an eastern court catered to a hungry crowd, while some business man performed the part of a cook, so wild were the pranks fate played upon these fortune-seekers.  But if few came back rich, as wealth is reckoned, all helped to found in power and prestige the glory of the Pacific Slope.</P>
164.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-164</TITLE>
164.sgm:<TITLE>California revisited.  1858-1897.  By T.S. Kenderdine: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
164.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
164.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
164.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
164.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
164.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
164.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
164.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>19-4213</LCCN>
164.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
164.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
164.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TEMPLE SQUARE, SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH, SHOWING MORMON TEMPLE, TABERNACLE AND ASSEMBLY HALL.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA REVISITED.</P>
164.sgm:<P>1858==1897.</P>
164.sgm:<P>BY</P>
164.sgm:<P>T. S. KENDERDINE,</P>
164.sgm:<P>Author of a "California Tramp."</P>
164.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATED.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Westward the Star of Empire took its way--<LB>Vainly we raced; eight hundred miles a day,--<LB>O'er struggling nations its effulgence shed,<LB>Like Britain's "drum beat round the world" it led.<LB>Back forty years, by unseen forces tied,<LB>It halted o'er the Kansas prairies wide,<LB>So that by ox-train, in that long ago,<LB>We passed the Star--the race was to the slow!</HI>
164.sgm:<P>NEWTOWN, PENNA.</P>
164.sgm:<P>1898.</P>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Preface.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>AS he who makes two blades of grass grow where one grew before is proverbially, at least, a benefactor; so should the author who grows the second book have the same title.</P>
164.sgm:<P>But there are sour grasses, and books which sour on the public, and reflectively on the author, so that the survivors of the fittest are few.</P>
164.sgm:<P>That this is my second venture readers of my "California Tramp" will know.  Those who do not will find by reading the coming pages that the author visited the Pacific Coast in 1858; so this is his second experience of Western travel.</P>
164.sgm:<P>To the tens of thousands who went on the Christian Endeavor excursion the late tour to California was of interest from that single journey; mine was of double interest.  To cross the continent in six days instead of six months; to see towns and cities, and gardens and orchards where I once saw sage-brush covered plains, and herds of cattle where the prairies had been black with buffaloes, were indeed things to note.</P>
164.sgm:<P>While my last journey was mainly one of pleasure there were disappointments mingled with it in my search for the acquaintances and land-marks of my former stay in California, not one did I find of the former, and of my old home I saw but its charred ruins from a recent fire, and much of that journey meant work to get through with my sight-seeing before my fifty-day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>A good portion of my California space is devoted to the old Spanish missions.  There was a facination about them which held me, and I did my best with my limited time to gratify my bent  The crumbling ruins of these old-time centers of Indian civilization are haloed with history and romance, and as you approach them a mirage is created through which tower and dome and red-tiled roof arise perfected; the fountains play, the orchards blossom and the gardens bloom, and priests and neophyte move amid their old-time haunts.  Through the same imaginative process we hear in the mission's inception the ring of bough-hung bells, and call of friar to the unseen gentiles in the wilderness, and later on the Angelus-ring from the new-built belfry.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The efforts made by antiquarians and lovers of the picturesque to gain title to these missions, so as to rebuild and stay destruction, or even to put them to practical use, as at Santa Barbara, where extensive additions are being made, are gratifying; but modern civilization, the same which started them on their disintegration, hangs around them with arresting power, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>My first Crossing of the Plains was a rude reality; my second, made towards the Psalmists life-limit from its brevity and long lines traversed, seems a dream.  May my awakening recollections of it amuse and instruct my readers as the repetition of my overland travels gratified me.</P>
164.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Newton, Penna., 1898</HI>
164.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>Doylestown Publishing Company, Printers,</P>
164.sgm:<P>Doylestown, Bucks Co., Penna.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>California Revisited.</P>
164.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>Contents.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>1.<LB>To Chicago<HSEP>7<LB>2.<LB>Across the Plains<HSEP>20<LB>3.<LB>Over the Rockies<HSEP>37<LB>4.<LB>Around Salt Lake<HSEP>60<LB>5.<LB>Salt Lake to San Francisco<HSEP>75<LB>6.<LB>Around San Francisco<HSEP>86<LB>7.<LB>To Monterey<HSEP>116<LB>8.<LB>Around San Francisco Bay<HSEP>141<LB>9.<LB>At the City of the Angels<HSEP>158<LB>10.<LB>Around Southern California<HSEP>173<LB>11.<LB>Up the California Coast<HSEP>11.<HSEP>200<LB>12.<LB>Again Around San Francisco and Homeward Bound<HSEP>245<LB>Around Yellowstone Park, and Home<HSEP>13.<HSEP>274</P>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>I.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>To Chicago.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>With Youth's elastic step I paced<LB>The Western broad divide;<LB>With Youth's effusive words I traced<LB>My wanderings far and wide,<LB>And now, as Age's dimming sun<LB>Veers past the zenith line,<LB>Again my traveling suit I don,<LB>And pen to hand assign.</HI>
164.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A setting hen never gets fat,"<LB>But then there's a prospect of chickens.<LB>"A rolling stone gathers no moss"--<LB>If it did there's no sale for its lichens!</HI>
164.sgm:<P>SO ran the old sayings and so now run my check-mates; but, taking them "by and large," I agree with an old-time critic in the wisdom of the latter saw; that it is better to roll around or even be knocked about, and have the rough corners polished off by attrition with the jostling world than to lie in a damp, secluded spot; a cover for the slimy lizard or a roost for the warty toad!</P>
164.sgm:<P>I sometimes think we are born travelers.  Our first parents set us the example when they wandered from Eden, and succeeding generations followed their restless example.  As soon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>Forty years ago, endowed with youth, a spirit of adventure and the Western fever, and with few of the belongings of my predecessors afore mentioned, I started on a journey whose successive stages, and springless ones they were, took me to the western verge of California.  I need not tell my readers how different was the situation of the country between the Missouri river and the Western ocean at that time, and the present; but still I will do it.  The railway system had not reached farther west than Jefferson City, and there was but forty miles of track in California--between Marysville, at the head of uncertain, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>I will never forget the time when I started on what seemed to me an adventurous journey; although to the best of my knowledge the county papers did not notice it; but then the local reporter was not abroad much at that time.  He was too busy running the hand-press, setting type, or doing menial duty for the editor.  Twice in a life-time a common man "got his name in the paper;" when he was married, and died; but the last announcement brought but little satisfaction to him.  Now the visit of Tom-Dick to his aunt in the next village is a matter of public interest, and the local Jenkins so records it.  I was unused to the world's ways, and, as I said, had youth and its adjuncts as companions, but I had my heart well up my throat as I wended my lonely way to the old depot.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>Our train was composed of fourteen cars, well filled with the average style of passenger.  The time of the observant traveler need not be confined to the passing scenery.  Human nature, as it is found in the whirling car, can have its portion.  Nearing Lancaster I got in conversation with a man whose fads were the greed of corporations and the corruption of the State Legislature.  In his pocket he held a pass from the railroad he was passing over for both himself and wife, which he had coaxed from a legislator who held them with others for services rendered.  From another source he expected to get sleeping-car tickets on to Chicago.  He was apparently an intelligent, well-to-do man.  Generally we have sense enough to keep silent when the recipient of favors we condemn others for holding, but this honest man seemed dazed with his good luck.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Another instance, on similar lines, I will narrate, although occuring on another part of the route.  The geniality of these lapsers from the moral code is such, and their over confidence in their listeners so prominent, that I hesitate, even remotely, to expose them, so I mention no locality.  One of these told me he was a contractor on certain lines of municipal work, and was now on his road home from a "letting."  Did he get the job?  No, but he had done better.  How could that be?  Oh! the bidders got together the night before the meeting of the Commissioners; "fixed" things so a certain firm would get the contract, arranged the pro rata and went home.  The joke of it was, a responsible party, who had sent a certified check as collateral, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>The Rocky Mountains, "rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun," shadowed the scene of this transaction and should have overawed the easy-virtued Commissioners and the tempting contractors into shame for their doings.  The snow, mantling the summits of these "temples of the Lord," should have suggested the judicial ermine, before which they might sometime have to account for their actions.  But the mountains glowered and gleamed in vain.  Greed, not sentiment, was the prevailing factor in the minds of the actors in this farce, and it takes more than smiles or frowns to dispel that.</P>
164.sgm:<P>This party, like the first, was down on Trusts, Monopolies, Corruption in Politics, the National Banking system, and the Gold-bugs, and other Capitalized Bug-a-boos--in short was a Populist; and only lacked opportunity to do all he condemned others for doing.  When I criticized his methods he said he started out to do a straight business; but finding that those who acted to the contrary came out ahead of him he abandoned that plan.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Beyond Lancaster the country improved, and the large painted barns showed the thrift of the descendants of the early Dutch settlers.  We were paralleling the turnpike, named from that town, and I thought of the strings of Conestoga wagons, that in ante-railroad times passed over it on the way to Philadelphia, and the great improvements in freightage from these to canals and thence to steam transit.  At Harrisburg quite a delegation of Dunkards boarded the train from a World's Conference of that sect just held in Frederick, Maryland.  Clad in their plain garb they were distinctly outlined from the rest of the passengers.  The women seemed to take an inferior position before the men; speaking deferentialy, if at all.  Barring their indifference to education and the exercise of the ballot, they are a good class of citizens--sober, honest and industrious.</P>
164.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>As we passed through Harrisburg, with its Capital in ashes and some of its legislators accused of making merry at its burning, at thoughts of the jobbery and corruption, consequent on the building of a new one, I wondered if the new halls, now being planned, would be the abiding places of an improved race of counselors; or still be disgraced with the class hitherto sent to the City on the Susquehanna.  A few were true to their trusts; but the many; well, the less said about them the better.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Soon we were rattling and screeching up the river of the hue cerulian; the former home of "bright Alfaratta," and her twin rhyme.  Between hills and then mountains the Juniata winds and the railroad follows, until, forced to leave it, the iron highway winds about the flanks of the Alleghenies, tunnels through them and descends their western slopes to Pittsburg.  Along the Juniata we see the remains of the canal which succeeded the Lancaster pike, and its continuations as a freight and passenger route to the far West.  The sight of this water-way reminded me of a sketch from "American Notes," where Dickens portrays the infelicity of travel, as exemplified in a journey on this canal on his westward way.  His conveyance was a packet boat.  It rained all the way up the canal, so that the passengers were "cabined, cribbed, confined" in the hold: a combination of kitchen, dining-room and bed-chamber.  The graphic description of the victuals; the gourmandizing; the social expectoration around the sizzling stove; the arranging of the sleeping accommodations, then tentatively working their way towards the luxuries of the Standard Pullmans; the drawing of lots as to who should have the choice berths, if any there could be in such a Calcuttan hole; the nocturnal hawking and continuance of what the stove had hitherto been the recipient; the added infliction of snoring; the morning awakening; the bath, through the media of tin-basin, brown-soap, dipper and canal water; with the mutual hair-brush and comb as an appetizer for the heavy breakfast to follow; all these you have read who have gone <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>Almost forty years ago I followed my present route to Pittsburg, and before leaving it I cannot help giving my feelings on the two journeys.  On my present I was reasonably sure of a satisfactory ending.  On the other, taken in a spirit of youthful adventure, I was full of doubt as to the outcome, and I remember, as I passed from river to river and from mountain to mountain, as valleys verged and peaks blended, their grandeur and beauties paled in the uncertainties clouding the future; still I was young, and normal youth don't stay long in the dumps.</P>
164.sgm:<P>It might be interesting to know what was in my mind when on my original journey; merely as a sample of the feelings of other youthful travelers.  A school-mate had left for the far <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:Pacific a year before.  The picturesqueness of his going forth; with his hair, let grown for a year in anticipation, on his shoulders, even as Absalom's; his rough hunting suit; his rifle and pistols, with ammunition, graded for animals, from buffalo down, for he went armed as if Oregon swarmed with game the most varied, impressed me; and him I saw ahead as a prominent figure.  Then as a surrounding of this Nimrodic hero I beheld wild game, daring hunters and Indians <HI REND="italics">ad libitum</HI>
164.sgm:<P>At Pittsburg my routes of '58 and '97 parted.  Then I went around by Detroit to Chicago; now on the direct road.  At the Smoky City, a name at one time likely to be a misnomer, on account of the discovery of natural gas in the neighborhood, and the probability of its taking the place of coal for manufacturing purposes, but now fully appropriate on account of the partial failure of the former fuel, we changed our news center, as time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:is changed farther west.  Philadelphia had been this point until we crossed the mountains; now it was Pittsburg whose papers were bought for the news.  When our long train left here it was through darkness and we were in Indiana before daylight showed.  Much of the land was low and wet and as I saw the broad stretches of water-logged prairie I thought of Hosea Biglow's quatrain:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I'd rather live on Camel's Hump,<LB>And be a Yankee Doodle beggar,<LB>Than where they never see a stump,<LB>And shake to death with fever and ague."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Camel's Hump is a New England mountain peak.  The farm buildings were low, unwhitewashed, and many leaning over and ready to fall; the fences poor, and the country generally unprepossessing.</P>
164.sgm:<P>By 8 o'clock we were in Chicago; that marvel of modern cities.  To compare it with the town of one hundred thousand people I saw on my early visit would be like using the sun and moon for comparisons; though even then its people were showing the restless, disatisfied spirit betokening greatness.  To overcome the disadvantages of its swampy site whole streets were being raised for drainage from four to six feet and confusion abounded.  Temporary wooden roadways and sidewalks, and thousands of jack-screws slowly raising houses, in which people were living and busily pursuing their daily avocations, were objects of interest.  The suburbs were but a short distance from the Lake front and some of these disreputable; among these "The Sands" on the North river.  My inability to procure work there might have prejudiced me against Chicago on my former visit.  Now everything was pleasant and interesting.  My short time there was spent in the "wheat-pit," riding through the Lake residence and Park sections, where I again revolved in my old acquaintance, the Ferris Wheel, of World's Fair fame; this rotary wonder having been moved to the north side of the city.</P>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Earth Cutting, Chicago Drainage Canal, showing existing appliances.</P>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Rock Cutting in Chicago Drainage Canal, showing Cantilever Derrick, 640 feet long.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>When the enterprise is completed, and it will cost $15,000,000, a new sewerage system must be adopted by Chicago which involves new lines and the abandonment of old ones now entering the Lake.  Then with the water of this inland sea turning the current of the Chicago river backward and into the Mississippi, and its sewage by St. Louis, will be inaugurated an event which will make the people of the Second City of America happy.</P>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>Across the Plains.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh! land of quartz and placer mine,<LB>Of grain and fruit and oil and wine<LB>And climate, which the "tender feet"<LB>Are told is same as bread and meat!<LB>With load-stone draft thy metalled hills<LB>Drew on the East in "forty-nine,"<LB>And now again with added will<LB>Thou'rt working on another line!</HI>
164.sgm:<P>When the Society of Christian Endeavor decided that their 1897 gathering should be held in San Francisco there was no idea that the western exodus would be so great.  That possibly ten thousand might go was thought; but that fifty thousand, some claim seventy thousand, would brave the fatigues and expenses of a trans-continental journey would have been deemed improbable; but it was even so.  The central starting point was Chicago.  There was one railroad sent out forty-two train loads.  The low rate agreed on by the railroad companies and the stop-off privileges allowed of course were prominent figures in the matter.  From the city named to San Francisco and return, inside of seven weeks, the fare was but fifty dollars; while the rate thence from the East was but one cent a mile.  From California the tourists could come back on any road, by either New Orleans, St. Louis, Chicago, St. Paul or Canada Pacific route.  The congestion of travel was of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>On seeing such immense delegations of Christian Endeavor people going their way to the convention the question was often asked "What good?"  I think the consensus of opinion among those acquainted with the condition of society in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>On the 29th of June, at 10 o'clock at night, we rolled out of the town whose Indian name was "Wild Onion;" perhaps with the odor of its sewage river, of the same name, in perspective.  My lines of travel of the past and present converged here, and here they separated.  Comparisons are odious, they say; but it depends on which way you look.  To me it was pleasant to think how different were the surroundings now from then, whenin a dimly lighted emigrant car with a couple of armed, half, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Across the turbid Missouri and we were in Omaha.  In no States, as in the Western, do the people so stand up for their towns.  When it comes to locating State Capitals they fight.  Nowhere else is there such jealousy of rivals and exaggeration of population and resources.  To induce the coming of commercial enterprises the citizens coax, threaten and sometimes involve themselves to financial ruin in raising money to aid them.  While we were there the Omaha folks were exulting over the fact that the Armour Packing Company was about erecting a million-dollar plant and the Union Pacific lessees a depot to cost the same amount.</P>
164.sgm:<P>At 2 o'clock we were again on our way across the plains of Nebraska.  We traversed a rich farming region which showed over-production; judging by full cribs and rotting hay stacks.  In fifty miles we came in sight of the Platte river, which I had followed up, with my six-yoked ox-wagon, from its mile-wide waters to where it showed a width of but fifty feet; a brawling mountain stream in the heart of the Rockies.  From what our conductor said we would not near the river for so long after night that we could not see it.  The sight of this stream brought up memories which shadowed the thoughts of my present journey, for with my patient oxen I had toiled up its valley for four months; while the rains of springs merged to Autumn droughts and the warmth of Summer to the cold of late <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>One hundred miles from Omaha we came to Kearney, opposite the old fort of that name, where the emigrant trail struck the river in its northwest course from Fort Leavenworth.  These two posts, with Laramie, Bridger and Camp Floyd, made up the series of military stations between civilization and the Pacific Ocean.  Fort Kearney is now dismantled and in ruins; although I learned the old trading post is still standing.  Here outside the Fort, but under its protection, quite a trade in furs was done in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The country grew interesting as we sped westward, with its wheat, oats and corn in immense fields and promising large harvests.  Long lines of trees, planted for wind breaks, sometimes hid the farm buildings, and windmills and water-tanks indicated a desire for labor-saving appliances.  It certainly did <illus entity="a164-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OLD TIME CORRAL.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>In weaving this narrative of my present journey I cannot help introducing some of the rough strands from that one of the far past.  In fact an excursion of the "personally conducted" class is a tame affair.  Of course it is comfortable and all that, and full of pleasant recollections and anticipations.  You know you will have a nice breakfast; a good dinner; and a following of the same kind of supper, --all well lubricated when you get west of the Missouri--and at night the tipped porter will tuck you in your little beds, so to speak, and in the morning you will find your shoes nicely blacked, sometimes.  It is also supposed some person will be on hand to tell what is what and which is which; although in our case he was missing; maybe it was because there were too many of us or too few of him.  This might easily be; for there were twelve car-loads of passengers, and he could not be in each when an inquirer wanted to put the question.  But had we not a porter in each car!  We had, and not one of them had been over the road before.  The river might be this; the town that and the snow-clad peak the other; but he would not know it.  His answer was like the "Quien Sabe!"--who knows?--of the Mexican, for all the good it did us.  Square meals, soft beds and good society can be had at home.  When traveling you want something more.  You need to get in touch with the people of the country you are traveling through.  On my westward journey I paid my money and was served with the best the market afforded; when I returned I patronized neither the Pullman Parlor or Dining Car and I survived to tell the tale.  I was no demagogue with an axe to grind; avoiding the classes to mix with the masses.  I traveled in a day-coach and had an opportunity to mingle with returning Californians, farmers and miners, who were satisfied to travel outside.  Pullman accommodations; also with transient travelers who, as such, were well acquainted with the country.</P>
164.sgm:<P>A peculiarity of the section we were now traversing was the lengthened twilight.  The farmers were working sixteen hours <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:a day and wishing the nights were shorter.  In my desire to see as much of the Platte Valley and familiar river this prorogued darkness was welcome.  Thirty miles from Kearney we were in what was the heart of the Buffalo country forty years ago, a period verging on the time when three pounds of sugar or coffee would buy a buffalo robe of an Indian.  Opposite here I had my first buffalo hunt; an experience nearly resulting in the reversal of the usual process.  My getting lost that night in the <illus entity="a164-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A STRANDED SCHOONER.</P>
164.sgm:mazy sand hills, and my feelings thereat are pretty indelibly fixed on my mind.  So are the trials of that part of my journey; the stalling of our teams in miry flats of some parts of the route and our dusty drives in others, when with lolling tongues and bowed heads our cattle plodded their tired way.  The dead oxen lining the road-way and the darker objects in the distance, denoting buffalo wantonly slaughtered, are remembered.  The sight of the shallow islanded river also brought up one eventful night <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The theory that man is naturally a barbarian and only kept up to the civilized line by his surroundings is well borne out by my frontier experiences and life on the plains, when those who had been used to the advanced ways of the East slid into half savage habits with ease.  The nervous strains upon us almost continually from daylight till dark and taking our turns on day herd and night watch told upon the more refined even, so they became hardened to the sights and sounds they met.  A newly made, suggestive mound by the road-side, or an occasional dead ox in various stages of corruption, had some effect at first; but afterwards we saw grave after grave, which accident or pestilence had filled, and the trail literally lined with the skeletons and carcasses of cattle without being affected.  I confess to having been influenced, myself, by my altered life and it is a question to what extent this change might have gone had I lived a year with such surroundings.  My experience that night in the Platte, as well at other times, as we toiled up its valley, bring these thoughts to mind, as we speed by on so differing sort of train.</P>
164.sgm:<P>In connection with this I call to mind an illustrative incident.  I must bring it in now for the speed we are making would soon take me beyond the scene.  I was on night guard on the Platte hills and the oxen, having eaten their fill, had lain down; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE LEAD TEAM--HOW I TRAVELED IN '58.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>For a change let me re-cross the Platte; to my Pullman train from an ox-train; from "Irish John," "Whiskey Bill," "Kaintuck," "Babe," "Dutch Mike" <HI REND="italics">et id omne genus</HI>
164.sgm:; to the company of the Reverend Mr. This and the Reverend Mr. That and their coadjutants, Miss This and Mrs. That, of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>There were some good singers among our drivers.  While the songs were not refined they were not objectionable.  One of these was the "Darby Ram," that extravaganza, then, as now, echoed from college halls and "Clover Club" banquets; another "There's Whiskey in the Jar;" now no longer heard; unless in the homes of "Missouri Pikers."  I can hear its chorus yet ringing out on the night air in senseless verbiage--with a buffalo or wolf accompanient from the distant plain.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O!  Ring a jing a jar<LB>Whack, thwack, my laddie oh!<LB>There's whiskey in the jar."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>But we had sentimental ditties too.  "Dutch Joe" would sing one beginning-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"My poor old mother and I did part,<LB>When I was very young<LB>Her memory still clings round my heart--<LB>How close to me she clung?"</HI>
164.sgm:<P>This is all I can recollect, but I have seen rude men affected at the recital.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Then there was "Kitty Clyde." <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh! who has not loved Kitty Clyde?<LB>That blue-eyed, rosy-cheeked lass,<LB>So trim and so neat and her glances so sweet,<LB>And always a smile when she'd pass."</HI>
164.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>While Dutch Joe sang the pathetic, or sentimental, an army deserter, Bill Bently, led the roaring songs; three or four taking up the chorus; the rest too tired or too sleepy to do more than listen.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Then there is another song comes to my memory; emphasized on account of its personality; though not from the deceit and mendacity of its leading character, but personal from similarity of names and associations.  This ditty referred to a certain Stephen.  Now, aware of the rude wit of my new-made comrades, I did not give my first name, on coming among them, thinking they might bury it under some outlandish term, so gave them the last title of the "Great Commoner," of Lancaster; from whom I was called.  I had previously announced my residence, in a general way, as Philadelphia.  It so happened that some of my associates had heard of that town in connection with the saying, "As smart as a Philadelphia lawyer;" and it was short work for their Pikeish wit to degrade the profession of that synonim of cuteness to that of Ananias and Sapphira, through the "Song of Stephen," a plantation ditty: so they would roar at me,-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O, Lawd Stephen!  Stephen so decievin'.<LB>Stephen so decievin', that the debble couldn't believe him,<LB>Stephen so decievin'; Stephen sich a liar,<LB>The debble took a pitch-fork and pitched him in the fire."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>I felt real hrt at the upset of my intentions, but the hardships following our stationary camp-life soon took the fun and sensitiveness out of all.  I will add that from the time I left the "outfit" on the Missouri, till I came home from California my name was "Steve;" only this and nothing more.  I give this little incident to further emphasize the dissimilarity of my companions on the two trains of '58 and '97.</P>
164.sgm:<P>There was great difference, also, in the sleeping accommodations on the two journeys.  Then we slept in our wagons, on hard bags of flour.  In one of these for eighteen weeks I lodged, except when on night-herd or driven to the open air by the heat.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>A part of our journey through Nebraska was what is known as the "abandoned-farm district" and here an occasional dismantled house and tumbling barn with rotting ricks of hay showed a departed owner and a "left" mortgage holder, sighing for worthless "collateral."  Still these deserted homesteads were not the rule and the "wind-breaks" in numerous ranches surrounding farm buildings and fields of rankly growing crops showed hope ahead.  The light from these homes had a pleasant look as they gleamed through the darkening twilight.  I staid up until after midnight to see the crossings of the two Plattes; the waters of the North Fork having been followed up by our ox-train to near the South Pass, while the other branch was well remembered by me from its ford.  The river was then a half mile broad and we were over a day crossing on account of its quicksands.  The night was not dark, so I had a pretty satisfactory view of the ford, where, with forty picked oxen to each wagon, we floundered through the river.  Then in my dripping clothing I remember going on night herd, when the gnats and mosquitoes and tortured cattle kept us moving at a lively pace until morning.  Here our two ways parted: the Endeavorers going West; the ox-drivers to the Northwest and the South Pass.</P>
164.sgm:<P>When day light came we were speeding up the river; now full of exposed sand bars on account of the large amount of water used for irrigation.  The banks were only three or four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:feet high and the surrounding country not inviting.  Ant hills and prairie dog mounds were numerously scattered along the track.  Jack rabbits were seen skipping about among the wild sage; reminders of my former journey.  Looking north was a range of bleak, rugged hills, beyond which was our companion river; and I regreted our course was not along it, that I might again see those natural wonders; Court House Rock, Chimney <illus entity="a164-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CROSSING THE PLATTE IN '58.</P>
164.sgm:Rock, Scott's Bluffs, Independence Rock and the Devil's Gate.  Irrigating ditches now threaded the fields we were passing, and the land now took on a thriftier look.  Soon we came in sight of the Rockies; Long's and Grey's Peaks being the prominent indications.  We saw snow on their summits and in the sheltered ravines well down their slopes.  Weeds of the cactus and sun-flower kinds began to cumber the ground.  The morning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>Over the Rockies.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The notched Sierras sawed the clouds<LB>By Winter's blizzards driven on;<LB>The saw-dust flew in blinding drifts,<LB>Till deep with snow all Nature shone.<LB>Now this neath Summer's melting suns<LB>In growing currents reached the plain,<LB>When, thralled by man in furrowed fields,<LB>It rose in flower aud fruit and grain.</HI>
164.sgm:<P>THE sight of the serrated mountains stretching northward, with their melting snows coursing towards the Platte, and the crops raised from their irrigating waters, suggested the opening lines of this chapter.  Although the optimists of this region assert that rich harvests are raised naturally, the facts do not warrant the assertion.  Though costly, irrigation pays well.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The phrase "When I was a boy;" so often in the mouths of the garrulous and senile, is not always welcome to listeners; so also may be the words "When I crossed the plains forty years ago;" but I will again risk them.  At that time the City of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>The groups of donkeys about the towns took one back to primitive mining times.  They seem a necessity on the narrow mountain trails to camps, as yet unreached by wagon roads, for "packing" ore to the smelting works and provisions back.  They can readily carry 200 pounds and when stringing along the trail lend a picturesqueness to the scene.  They are worth $30 to $40 apiece.</P>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ASCENT OF PIKE'S PEAK</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Two miles from the summit one of our ladies was overcome with heart trouble on account of the rarefied air and was left at the home of a track-hand until our return.  Others were beginning to suffer.  As appropriate to the elevation the Endeavorers had intended to sing "Nearer my God to Thee" as they approached the Summit; but they could finish but one verse, when they were forced to stop for want of breath.  Snow was all around us now and the track was so obstructed the day before as to require shoveling off.  The Summit was reached at last.  The adage "There is always room at the top" held good here for the reason that altitudinal conditions prevented a crowd from gathering; for those left could hardly wait for the next car.  It was a confused mass of rocks, snow and mud, and the picture of desolation.  But the view hence is unsurpassed.  The valleys below, with their towns looking like checker-boards; the mountains stretching, range after range, away; the near-by peaks; the deep gorge dropping sharply from the summit; the sight of all these will be well remembered.</P>
164.sgm:<P>But before all could enjoy the view there were some duties required.  These were taking care of those who had succumbed to the effects of rare air.  One woman was prostrate, with the usual crowd around, and to her an alleged doctor was giving brandy; the worst "remedy" to apply at this altitude.  Others were gasping around with contorted faces; but by resting in the shelter of the "Summit House" all but three or four were in good shape for the next car.  Some of the hardiest of the tourists tried snow balling, just so they could tell their gaping friends at home what Pike's Peak was capable of in July; but their sport was short lived, for there was a wind blowing which would take a foot-ball player's breath.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The original Government Station is still here; but in ruins <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:and half-full of snow.  This was a needed house of refuge years ago; when the ascent of Pike's Peak was an adventure; the <illus entity="a164-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LOOKING DOWN FROM TIMBER LINE.</P>
164.sgm:first part on horse back; the last on foot, and a guide was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE RAGGED EDGE OF PIKE'S PEAK.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Pike's Peak was first ascended by Colonel Zebulon M. Pike in 1804, and is one of a group of peaks punctuating the Rocky Mountain range, of which Grey's, Long's and Fremont's Peaks also hold high prominence.  Its height is 14,000 feet.  Named for what was afterward General Pike it has a local importance; he having been born in my native county, and, in fact, is of personal interest to me, as his home was afterwards owned by my father; but long since torn down.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The railway was finished in 1891 and cost $1,000,000, as one man says, or $500,000, as another hath it; it don't matter; it gets there, regardless of cost.  It is only operated about three months in the year, or during the tourist season.  Thus far no accidents have happened to passengers, as great care is used.</P>
164.sgm:<P>We saw the sights around Pike's Peak, including the Garden of the Gods and then went on our way.  For awhile this was southward, until at Puebla, called, from its manufactures, the Pittsburg of the West, we swung around at a sharp angle and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Unfortunately the delays caused by the immense passenger travel prevented our going through the Royal Gorge by daylight; but from the headlights of three locomotives drawing as many trains close following one another and the lights of the cars, the depths of the canyon were fairy lighted.  Preparations are now being made to illuminate the Gorge by electricity, so that no matter what time the passage is made the wonders of it may be well seen.  This gateway is where the Arkansas river breaks through the Sangre de Cristo--Blood of Christ--range of mountains and from its depth and length is noted.  At one place the walls approach so close that a bridge swung from the rocks above is required to carry the road over the water until the canyon again widens.  After we were through four more trains followed; so that for days the Gorge echoed with the roar of continuous travel.</P>
164.sgm:<P>At last outside the canyon-walls the country opened, but still we were environed by mountains.  Some of these were covered with snow half-way down, while others were part hidden with clouds.  At one point we saw a snow-storm raging among their peaks.  Once in awhile we passed a rude home of some cattle raiser, where cow-boys, unkempt women and barefoot children were seen.  A mining camp came in sight occasionally and patches of cultivated land.  Sage-brush and cactus abounded We had now left the Arkansas Valley and at Thompson's Pass came on to the Pacific slope, and at the height of 10,000 feet we passed through a tunnel and began the descent.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Children on the track of western travel are taught merchandizing at on early age.  At the many stops we were obliged to make an account of the heavy travel, they flocked around us with baskets of fruit and sandwiches and boxes of "speciments," or collections of minerals.  When one of our ladies, made hungry from our inability to make connection with our appointed dining place, asked a boy for a sandwich he said he was out of that edible, but he had "speciments."  This was literally "asking for bread and getting a stone."  Either on the score of economy or because butter was thought to be too rich for our blood, cheese was used as a filler for the Colorado sandwiches offered us.</P>
164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ROYAL GORGE.</P>
164.sgm:<P>At a silver-mining town called Minturn we halted awhile for the usual train-wait and to allow the hungry a chance to skirmish for breakfast.  On leaving Chicago we had our places for eating fixed, but as "the best laid schemes of mice and men" don't always hatch out, we met with disappointment after the second meal.  The restaurants ahead were sometimes eaten out and the subsequents were obliged to go hungry.  At Manitou all had not a chance to dine before the stages started on a mapped out drive, and these must go hungry or miss a train, which, like "time or tide wait for no man," nor woman either, for that matter.  To the next chance to eat was over twenty-four hours, so the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>At Minturn was quite a collection of idlers; made so, they said, by the inhumanity of the Plutocrats of the East and Europe.  They had a spokesman and he was ready for questions or arguments when brought before them by tourists.  That they were honest in their beliefs went without saying, and that their assertions were superficially logical seemed admissable; but behind all loomed the simple fact that the silver mines had produced more of the white metal than the world needed for money, and it did not pay to dig for it for mechanical purposes alone.  Whenever possible I made it a point to look into the nature of the grievances of our Western brothers towards us; not always a pleasant undertaking, when they honestly thought us their oppressors.  William J. Bryan is their God and silver is their profit.  His "crown of thorn" style of speeches sown in their responsive hearts has grown to something hard to argue down.  I was talking to the leader of three miners out of work, who were seated on a store-goods box in front of a saloon.  He had started the subject of the burden laid on the mining and farming regions of the West by the Eastern money power.  The idle silver mines; the out-of-work, rough clad miners; the humble homes; the Pullman cars and the well-dressed excursionists made good object lessons for my friends on the store-goods box, which no arguments, as to our well meaning, or our calling attention to the money the tourists were scattering in handsfull along their way, could set aside.  "You say you are our friends," said my <HI REND="italics">vis-a-vis</HI>
164.sgm:; "that what you do is for our good; that if you make money you spend it.  That's all very nice.  But, see here!  I, like my friends here, am out of work.  Do you see that canyon there?  Well, along it I have three claims.  I was working then; they were paying me well and my family were having the comforts of life.  My dog, you see by my side, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FROM THE CAR WINDOW.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>We were now rapidly descending the Pacific slope.  Forty miles through the Eagle and Grand Canyons; deep, tortuous cleavings of the western skirts of the Rocky Mountains.  The river is close to the track.  You wonder how the obstructions will be passed when rolling over a bridge or through a tunnel we see our way clear.  The Grand River with the Green forms the Colorado, which some miles below ploughs a canyon in which might be buried the Yosemite Valley till the Big Trees would look like weeds.  An abysmal wonder is the Canyon of the Grand, zigzagging from side to side, by the verge of seething rushing water, until you wonder what the outcome will be.  Almost perfect lines of masonry, bastions and towers; side by side, or range above range of sharp-cleft lines of cut stone-work divide our attention from the dizzy heights above them or the swirling stream below.  At length we come from darkness to light and the eye is greeted with a pamorama of variegated colored rock-facings--red, green and yellow predominating; to darkness again as we shoot through a tunnel, then light again, when the Springs of Glenwood show themselves, steaming with sulphurous heat.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Here is a fine hotel called the Colorado; built by the excursionist, Raymond.  The red stone of its walls, from nearby quarries, are consistent with its name, and are contrasted with white trimmings, but in greater contrast was the original structure, before the railroad came, whose rough lumber was packed by donkeys over the mountain, with the present architectural wonder of the canyon.  The health-giving sulphur springs are a great attraction to invalids, their temperature varying from 40 to 140 degrees.  The immense swimming pool 600 feet long, 110 feet wide and with a depth of 4 feet; of a suitable warmth and gamey with odor was an object of interest.  It is fed from a hot spring that runs 2,500,000 gallons daily.  The steaming pool, the adjacent vapor cave, the high mountains abruptly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CANYON OF THE GRAND RIVER.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Rich and poor in search of health come here from afar.  Among the patients was a man stiff with rheumatism who, with the trust of a faith curist, was making himself believe his joints were loosening.  Scant of means he had saved enough money to try these waters, and his painful efforts to appear better, and his words full of hope made him a symbol of Pathos.</P>
164.sgm:<P>As was the custom, when there was a possible chance to advance their objects and to show that they were not Christian Endeavorers merely in name, our people held an open air meeting after dinner at the "Colorado"--a meal, by the way, so appetizing that, when the same was over, we felt that while miles back we had <HI REND="italics">seen</HI>
164.sgm: the Royal Gorge we now had <HI REND="italics">had</HI>
164.sgm: one; in fact were made so forgetful of the many misconnections at past eating stations, that we experienced a contentment, a continuous feast itself according to the old adage, which brought oblivion to the poverty prevailing about us in the silver camps.  Several citizens of the town and mining regions thereabouts fringed our unusual gathering but truth compels me to say they were not obtrusive in taking part in the services.  Mingling among these were our friends "Alkali Ike," "Broncho Bill" and perhaps "Sage Brush Pete"--not having an introduction I can't say positively--big of hat; bulgy of hip-pocket and profusive of straddling swagger.  But we should not be too critical.  Our Pilgrim Fathers attended religious gatherings with large "guns,"--here a pistol is a gun--and head gear fully as prominent, and passed unscathed by local censors.  There, however, the comparison ends.  The most hopeful optimist would not call the average Rocky-mountaineer a reverent person.  That he keeps his hat on, even during prayer, smokes his pipe and indulges in a running conversation during services, goes without saying.  While naturally brave on this occcsion he showed a timidity that kept him seperated from the crowd, as if fearful of being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:called on for his "experience."  I would like to apply the lines.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The bravest are the tenderest--<LB>The loving are the daring"--</HI>
164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SWIMMING POOL--GLENWOOD SPRINGS.</P>
164.sgm:<P>but concientiously I cannot.  They were perhaps brave and daring, but as to being loving and tender, at least toward us, they were not.  These Isaacs, Williams and Peters, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The day of our stopping at Glenwood was the National holiday, and after our religious services it was celebrated in speech and song; but William J. Bryan had been abroad lately; the usual object lessons were in sight--Pullman cars; well-dressed Eastern men and women, products of the system which was impoverishing the West; non-paying silver mines; a mammoth, $350,000 hotel, supported by the rich, and a millionaires summer resort looking down supercilliously from a mountain height; so the Fourth of July fell flat, outside the excursionists.  Instead of being welcomed among them as disseminators of money as well as religion our purple and orange colors seemed to have the same effect on the people of the silver regions that a red flag has on the horned monarch of a "Plaza del Toro," and those wearing them as getting the benefits of a monetary system which was grinding them to the earth whose silver they could not afford to dig.  I told one of these that the remedy was in mining gold instead of silver and that the Tariff would righten matters both East and West, but the words fell on unwilling ears.  With logic which no arguments would satisfy he spoke as did the man at Minturn.  "Our mines are of silver; necessarily the absence of cheap coal and the high wages we are obliged to pay precludes competitive manufacturing; our interests are not identical.  Give us free silver coinage; then our mines will start up; we will be able to buy your products and we will all, from California to Maine, be happy."  But the comfort is that Time, the great healer, will make everything right with our mountain friends--for they are not our enemies wilfully, or all "Alkali Ikes," but the bulk of them honest in their convictions.  The introduction of the school house; the Sabbath school and its follower, the Church, will soften and elevate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Again on our way we debouched from the Canyon of the Grand, when we passed over a desert country; although there was pasture for stock on the river bottoms.  At one station, where we laid over, we were shown specimens of good horsemanship by the cow-boys who had come in to gather some nickels, which amused and interested us; racing, lassoing, picking up objects on the run, &amp;c.  At a cattle and mining town called De Beque the citizens claimed to have a $7000 school house, and they seemed to be prosperous.  Irrigation had made the desert bloom around this odd named town.  Peaches, grapes, apricots, pears and all kinds of small fruit have taken the place of sage-brush, grease-wood and cactus.  Early morning showed we had left the valley of Grand River, which by mountain and desert we had followed so long.  We were now passing over long reaches of sand with isolated mountains in the far distance.  For a hundred miles we did not see a stream of water; but with artesian wells that did not matter.  Back at Grand Junction I was shown what irrigation would do on the desert.  Fruit of all kinds abounded here at this Oasis.  When the season is at its height they have an annual festival or fiesta called "Peach Day."  The choicest of fruits are brought in to the town, literary exercises are held, and the wind up is a grand Tournament, when Cow-boys are the Knights and bucking-bronchos and fractious steers the material whereby they show their prowess and make a desert holiday.  "Fair laides," they say, are not wanting to award the prizes; but they seemed to be in hiding when we passed through the place.</P>
164.sgm:<P>It is hard to find any one for track hands on these sun-burned plains but Chinamen and Indians; the hardy natives of Sunny <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>From the bridge over Green River can be seen, fifty miles away, the start of the Canyon of the Colorado, just below the coming together of the Green and Grand.  At a bright spot on the desert, called Helper, we got our breakfast.  The usual rush and forgetfulness of the amenities of polite education and the feed was over.  Experience had taught us how to make ready for the choice end of the first table at these wayside feasts.  I have told the reader before my views of the easy-descent in connection with the slide from a civilized life to barbarism.  We were all guilty so I am not inviduous.</P>
164.sgm:<P>An occasional group of charcoal ovens, looking like a small Hottentot village, and now and then a sorry looking set of ranch buildings appeared along the route.  At Castle Gate, a mining town, "cabined, cribbed, confined" by the walls of a narrow canyon leading to the valleys of Utah, are coal mines and coke ovens, the output of which goes as far as San Francisco.  The coal is worked from the foot of a mountain; a vein three to eight feet thick following the slope to the summit.  It is a dry mine, and to prevent fire-damp water must be continually sprayed through it.  For this, the fans, and working the cars a six-hundred horse engine is used.  The "slack" is made into coke while the lump coal is shipped.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Our people were curious, and being in Utah were hunting Mormons, and when one was found the impolite question was propounded to them, "How many wives have you?"  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:They might have answered, Yankee fashion, "How many had Solomon, Abraham, Isaac and Jacob?" but they did not want to be discourteous to strangers; they had us on that, however.  Many of the miners were of the Latter Day Saints, as they <illus entity="a164-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CASTLE GATE, UTAH.</P>
164.sgm:</ILLUS>perfer being called, but polygamy is not openly practiced.  Through Castle Gate we passed where sandstone columns, 500 feet high, arose in grand suggestiveness, and over Soldier Summit, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The last town we passed through, before entering Salt Lake Valley was Lehi, a name taken from the Mormon Scriptures, Forty years ago it was surrounded by a substantial wall.  I recollect the gates were narrow.  It was night when we passed through them and I recall how fearful I was my six-yoke team might veer so much from their course as to enact the role of Samson at Gaza.  But we went through safely, as did the other forty-nine wagons.  The unusual sight of rows of lighted houses and staring citizens was impressive.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The "oldest settler; the most ancient Mason and the left-over from the war of 1812 are often envied for their prominence; but I think, unless childish, they feel heart-sick in their isolation and long to exchange it for the young life of any of the gaping crowd around them, and deem a lion in his decadence a poor comparison to a thriving dog.  When the town anniversary, the Lodge celebration, and the Fourth of July festivities are over the old fellow who punctuated them with his presence and more or less senile remarks goes home unnoticed, sick and sorry, and thinking of the long ago when he envied some Revolutionary relic or "Hero of the French War" on similar occasions.  In my present overland journey I saw no one on the train who had gone before in the primitive way I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The trees planted around the Mormon homes made the scenery pleasant.  Sometimes long rows of them extended along the fields as "wind-breaks."  They were principally of <illus entity="a164-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"TROUGH THE STREETS OF LEHI IN '58."</P>
164.sgm:<P>After passing Lehi our train--the steam train--came to the Jordan River which we followed down to Salt Lake, at varying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>Around Salt Lake.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh, Land of fresh and pickled lakes--<LB>Of deserts and oases--<LB>Where canyons dark and deep look out<LB>On blooming, smiling places!<LB>Though socially, from out the past,<LB>Thou even yet art tainted,<LB>We joy to know the evil one<LB>Is not as black as painted!</HI>
164.sgm:<P>WHEN on my previous overland journey, I came in sufficient contact with the Mormons to know they were ignorant as a body and clannish and ready to follow their leaders when ordered.  They showed this in their journeys West; in the abandonment of Salt Lake City on the troops approaching it and leaving their homes in far off San Bernardino, at the call of Brigham Young, to help defend the mountain passes of the Wahsatch from the Federal invasion.  I also knew that polygamy was a blight upon them; but as a class they were honest in their views, taking the examples of prominent characters in the Old Testament to justify themselves in what distinguished them from other Christian sects.  That they were industrious was shown in the way they made the cold, desert soil of Utah bloom under irrigation.  The character of the men I traveled with from Salt Lake to California favorably impressed me towards them.  These were plain, honest fellows; clear of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>In asking one of their ministers, named Stewart, at Ogden, the Mormon belief he said they held with most Christian sects, except as to Revelation.  That had ceased at the death of Christ, but there were so many interpretations of God's word that confusion followed and a new start must be made; so the Lord sent his angel, Maroni, who appeared to Joseph Smith and commanded that a new Dispensation should follow, whereby the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:good old System of Apostles, Bishops and Priests should be renewed.  So God laid his hand on his Prophet, and he on Brigham Young, who placed his on John Taylor and we his on Wilford Woodruff, the present Lord's annointed, although Smith had laid his hand on Taylor as well as Young.  Our questions were all answered in a confident, respectful way; showing our interlocutor had a sincere spirit, if on the wrong spiritual track.  A ship had just landed in New York with her jute cargo on fire, which for days the crew had tried to extinguish.  There were fifty Mormon emmigrants on board, but they had not felt the least concern, for never had there a ship gone down with one of their faith on board, said Elder Stewart.  I asked him if he thought that was so.  "Think it?  I know it, said he."  "The only time ill luck ever befel a Mormon ship was when the <HI REND="italics">Arizona</HI>
164.sgm: struck an ice-berg and shipped four hundred tons of water; but God preserved them by sending along a vessel who took them and their belongings off safely.  "Their missionaries, 1500 in number, are out all the time, and these are continually sending on converts to Utah, which is the place ordained by God as the resting place of the Latter Day Saints.  I asked the Elder when the Mormons first showed themselves?"  "In North and South America 1800 years ago."  Who were they?  "You see a remnant around here.  They have blankets on, and some of them carry pappooses on their backs."  Sure enough there were some of these long-haired, untutored savages around the station.  It is a fiction among the Saints that the lost tribes of Israel came to America and the Indians are their descendants--all being Mormons as were their progenitors.  I asked him what claims the Mormons had on Utah when they resisted the government in 1858.  He said before that territory was ceded by Mexico to the United States the Mormons held title to the part they occupied, and as they had paid for it they had a right to defend it by force of arms.  The same of the San Bernardino tract.  Polygamy was a dead issue.  He neither practiced nor believed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>As soon as we got off the cars we proceeded with our characteristic vim to "The Tunnel," an underground restaurant, from its darkness appropriately named, which our coupons said owed us a supper.  It reminded me of the Roman Catecombs, or rather descriptions of them.  Those were receptacles for early Christian Martyrs; this for late Christian Endeavorers.  We had had our usual, of late, twenty-four hours fast and felt like adding martyrs to our long name, also, but immersed in our "feed" we forgot past troubles and comparisons.  But the rush was something fearful to behold.  After this I made the best use of my time while it was day to look up old land-marks.  When I was last here Temple Square was simply enclosed by a twelve-foot high adobe wall.  The Temple foundations had been commenced, but the work suspended on account of pending troubles.  Now that tall, pinnacled realization of Young's dream pierces the air, with the angel, Maroni, perched on the topmost point, trumpet in hand, and facing the East, when he first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>There were three of Brigham Young's widows living.  One of them was Margaret Pierce, who, when a little girl, moved from Chester county to Nauvoo with her father who had joined the Mormons.  On growing up she was "sealed" to Young, and remains true to his memory; while Amelia, of fifty years, is getting ready for a second matrimonial venture.  She lives in a neat house, all to herself.  The other ex-wives also live seperate.  Margaret gave several callers her autograph.  The others were so annoyed by the ill-manners of the more curious of the tourists, who asked them what numbers they went by, how they got along together and other disrespectful questions that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>In an adjoining lot was an old deserted school house where his children attended and, all being brothers and sisters, the teacher could not be accused of favoritism.  In a tent close by two enterprising Mormon boys exhibited a carriage, owned by the Prophet, and which, in 1861, was drawn over the plains by oxen.  It was not a drawing card now and enticed few visitors at five cents, although a bargain-counter reduction had been made from ten.</P>
164.sgm:<P>I noticed the streams coursing along the gutters, solely for watering the trees and gardens.  Before they were also used for house use, and there was a fine for the defilement of the water; even washing the hands therein meant a loss of five dollars.  I was reminded of the time when on my first morning in Salt Lake City I crawled from my open-air bed and thought to signalize my arrival among civilized people by what is known now as a bath, but then as a wash of face and hands.  I had hardly made a dip in the ice-cold water coursing along the curb when I heard the cry "Stranger!  That means five dollars if the constable sees you!"  I wondered what would come next, when a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>For general use a $1,500,000 water plant supplies the city.  Sixty miles of trolley lines traversed the streets, when forty years ago I did not remember seeing a carriage, and coal is exported where wood for winter use was hauled many miles from the mountain canyons with oxen.  The power for running the cars and lightning the city comes from large reservoirs in rifts of the Wahsatch range.  Then I did not see a steam engine; now a part of the city was black with furnace-smoke.  The streets on which were scattered one-story adobe houses are paved with asphaltum and solidly built up; although, to show the contrast, we see many of the picturesque, gray homes of the old settlers yet standing in the suburbs, with their orchards and gardens surrounding them.  The then lonely, silent shores of Salt Lake now echo with thousands of human voices, at the bathing places of Saltair and Garfield Beach, and are jarred by rumble of trolley cars, or clang of gongs as the excursionists go and come.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The Tabernacle is a curious looking building.  When Brigham dreamed its plan he must have had a just previous heavy supper of terrapin, from the shape of the roof.  Its oval capacity of 250 by 150 feet had been filled in the afternoon by an Endeavor "Rally;" at the regular Sabbath service of the Mormons in the evening it was jammed with humanity.  With 10,000 to 12,000 excursionists in the city this can be easily accounted for.  There were twenty, large double-doors, all guarded by policemen; and here the crowd surged in efforts to enter, while others suffering from the heat within tried to get out.  I was late getting there, so failed to see the opening exercises; but the prayer, I was told, was such as is heard in other Christian Churches; the recognition of Jesus Christ as the Son of God and Saviour of mankind included.  The choir of five hundred voices was singing, and as this was accompanied by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:the Great Organ its effects can be imagined.  This musical wonder is thirty by thirty-three feet in depth and width, and forty-eight feet high, with sixty-seven stops, three keys boards, and two thousand six hundred pipes, from three-fourths of an <illus entity="a164-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"THE TABERNACLE."</P>
164.sgm:inch to thirty-two feet high.  No wonder the Tabernacle roof is hump-backed from the rise of sound-volume from such a monster.  After the choral opening there were addresses by Elders Cannon and Penrose well fitted for the large percentage of Gentiles in the audience.  The dead past was allowed to bury <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>They believe in the Resurrection of the Dead and Eternal Judgement; that as death is universal so will be the raising of the bodies.  Jesus holds the keys, and when He will come into His Kingdom He will call forth his Saints from the earth and their bodies shall be tangible, though spiritual.</P>
164.sgm:<P>After one thousand years the rest of the dead will arise.  The just who knew not Christ will come first: then will come the unjust.  All will be judged mercifully, but justly and rewarded or punished according to their merits.  The glory of the sun, moon and stars, as they take precedence, will be symbols of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>With the marriage rules connected with their religion there are some interesting points.  A wife, when "sealed" to her husband, is his now and forever.  Should she die he can wed another.  Should fate, more or less kind, give him the third wife at the resurrection he would have three wives, which, with their children would form one family, "and would be suitable company for Abraham, Isaac and Jacob and other ancient worthies in the heavenly kingdom."  If the husband should die with a wife behind him, and she should marry, it would be for time, only, and in the resurrection she would take her place with her original husband.  The children of her second venture would go with her.</P>
164.sgm:<P>But the Mormon belief in the marriage relation does not stop here.  They argue if one raised from the dead with a glorified body has a right to more than one wife so has a man on this earth.  Revelation declares the first condition to exist and logically sanctions the second.  With belief in what the angel, Maroni, brought to Joseph Smith everything follows.  But one of the articles of faith declares "obedience to temporal laws" and since the passage of the Edmunds bill polygamy is illegal; so at a full conference of the Church it was decided that a plurality of wives would no longer be allowed--in Utah.  In Colorado and Nevada, where there are Mormons and no antagonistic State laws, that is another matter, and there they can follow the the example "of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob and other ancient worthies."</P>
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164.sgm:<P>One of the peculiarities of this peculiar religion is its progressiveness, and that not only is revelation continuous but that it is subject to startling innovations, as in the past.  The introduction of polygamy was one and this was followed by the "baptism of the dead" and the reconcilliation of those who were at enmity in this world after their emigration to the next.  These have come through the Presidents, as policy or whim dictated.  The baptism of the dead is of course done vicariously.  There living friends may therefore be immersed for them and the record be made on earth and ratified in heaven; of course the belief and repentance of the dead must be in some way satisfactory.  The union by proxy in this world of those who are supposed to be discordant in the one following is even assured.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Want of space prevents me from continuing these oddities of religious belief farther.  To attain a certain amount of consistency fresh absurdities are added, till things are woefully mixed up.  I will stop short by saying that when the Mormans differ from other Christians their religion is absurd rather than criminal, according to their explanation.</P>
164.sgm:<P>In regard to the personal appearance of the Mormons I will not go so far as some of my Endeavorer friends who could spot a Latter Day Saint on sight by his brutalized features, the female of his species by her care-worn, submissive air, and their children by their precociousness.  As far as my observation went they compared favorably with other Christian denominations.  The consistencies require a different expression of opinion, but that cannot be helped; I am here to state facts.  Who expects to see faces dehumanized by impure living, and uncouth dress and manners prevailing will be disappointed.  A look at the five hundred faces of the young men and women composing the Tabernacle choir, and the leading members of the church, with their attire and deportment, would disabuse an unprejudiced person of that belief.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Apropos of this I recall a recent occurrence at a class examination at an Eastern college.  From student to student a complex question went unsolved until one, on the farther side of the hall arose and answered it.  He was the son of Brigham Young!  These things ought not to be.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The following clipping would show that the Mormon Church is anything but a dying one, although it is rather discouraging reading for Gentiles: "The Mormons are very active and energetic, and they still seem disposed to take part in politics, as a Church.  Statistics presented at the last general conference of the Church represented that the increase in membership, through baptism of children who have reached the age of eight years, and of adult converts in Utah, Idaho, Canada, Colorado, Wyoming, and Arizona has been larger than during any year in the Church's history.  Outside the Rocky Mountain region the Mormon Church has received more accessions than in any two years previously.  The greatest comparative increase has been in New England, in States east of the Missouri river, north of the Ohio, and in Oregon and California.  In foreign lands and other parts of the United States than the Mormon region, there are about 1400 missionaries at work, mostly young or middleaged men, all of whom travel without salary or allowance from the Church, for the Church permits no minister to receive a salary, but only to rely on the hospitality of the people."</P>
164.sgm:<P>Among the great number of excursionists were numerous crooks who had followed them for plunder.  During services in the Tabernacle several thefts occured, as shown by the ejaculations of the victims; while at night there were robberies in the streets; in many cases, according to next day's papers, the victims losing money and tickets; a bad predicament in this far off land.  One man lost five hundred dollars.  I had a little experience of my own.  Late at night while going up the steps of my car I was followed by three men whom I thought, in the darkness, belonged with us.  As I reached for the door-knob <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The next day, July 6th, after another look at the half ruined remnants of old adobe buildings, which had been tithing offices and store houses for Church goods, we took a trolley ride to Salt Lake, twenty miles away.  The bath houses, pavillions, salt works and the disagreeable odors from the marshes along the borders of the Lake are my chief memories of that excursion.  Huge piles of salt, made by evaporation, naturally and artificially, showed that the dense waters of this American Dead Sea are turned to account.  We returned by 2 o'clock and in an hour were on board the cars and on our way to California.  Much of our route was in sight of the Lake, and passing scattered ranch buildings with trees around them and lining the fields soon reached Ogden where we got supper.  The hotel was a fine one and our dining-room was on the sixth floor; quite a change from our last subterranean restaurant; the "Tunnel."  The view from this was extensive in the Lake direction.  Ogden is a progressive city of twenty thousand people, with water works, electric lights and trolley cars.  Reservoirs at high elevations furnish the power.  Marvelous stories were told by the farmers we saw of the yield of crops around here; wheat 50 to 60 bushels per acre; potatoes 700 and alfalfa three tons to the acre, three times a year.  This was, of course, from irrigation.  Horses sold at $20 a piece; cows $25, and sheep $1.50.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The gleaming waters of Salt Lake were plainly visible much of our way after leaving Ogden, and we only lost sight of them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Around Terrace is a desert in reality; a fact, which no glamour of land agent or railroad dead-head can hide.  There are no running streams, and artesian wells and wind-mills are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Salt Lake to San Francisco</HI>
164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>V.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The panting oxen toiled along<LB>With head bowed down and lolling tongue;<LB>Beside the wild-eyed driver cursed--<LB>Raved of cool springs and died athirst.<LB>Now on this trail the Pullman flies;<LB>The sated tourist yawns and sighs<LB>For softer bed and better wine<LB>And wishes it were time to dine.</HI>
164.sgm:<P>AFTER a tedious wait at Terrace the detaining trains got out of our way and we rolled on.  At another desert station in Tecoma, Nevada, we suffered additional delay.  There are rich copper mines in the adjacent mountains and this is a shipping point for the crushed ore which is put in sacks and shipped to the smelting works at Salt Lake.  It is a dismal place to wait, as there are no shade trees except some scrubby cotton-woods; the sun hot and the sand glaring; but it was an interesting place for all, for when the surroundings lacked interest we had it in our power sometimes to furnish it.  The foremost among our Endeavorers were always ready to do good, and, thinking a nearby saloon a good point to operate on, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>A tough looking "buckaroo," with a whiskey breath and a pistol, or "gun," as they here call it, swinging at his hip, was swaggering around the porch.  When his religious condition was enquired into, he said he read his Bible, said his prayers and could sing a hymn when occasion called for the same.  His profession, however, did not hinder "Whiskey Bill" from continually urging his brother cowboys to come in and "take something," even while our services were going on.  These went in without coaxing, except one, who really appeared affected by the pleadings of one of our ministers, who amid the song service clung to him.  Coming out of the saloon "Whiskey Bill" joined in the hymns with rude swinging of his arms, the other "buckaroos," with the barkeeper at their head breaking in with noisy irreverence.  A character in the scene was a tall cowboy, called "Texas Jack," who was hiring out a gray broncho for enthusiastic passengers to ride, and who mingled with us when idle.  He was a fine specimen of manhood, and dressed in the typical style of his tribe.  One of our proselyting ladies, seeing his indifferent, or hostile attitude tried to work on his feelings.  He was cooly respectful, but the lady's importunities at last stirred him up to the question, "Do you believe in the justice of God?"  "Of course I do, and so do you," said she.  Then said the Texan, "There have been several accidents to you people on your way here; some of them fatal; now do you believe a just God would allow this, especially to professing Christians on such a mission as yours, causing painful deaths and life-long helplessness to innocent persons?"  This answer was so Ingersollian that he was considered a hopeless case, and, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>In the kitchen of a nearby house was a Shoshone Indian, named "Rattlesnake Jim;" why so viciously prefixed I don't know; for if he bore it rightfully, he was certainly as mild a mannered son of the forest as ever took a scalp or cut a throat.  He was sitting stolidly on a soap-box, looking at the woman of the house washing dishes.  He wore a buckskin shirt; but destroyed the proprieties by wearing blue overalls and a straw hat; making amends, however, by having his long locks done up in paper, as if preparing for a party--a scalping party, say.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Back of the seething station were some sun baked buildings where Chinese lived.  A "dug-out," a deep hole, with trap doors, to keep provisions cool, a common sight at the desert stations, was seen here.  Near by was a corral whose fence was made by lashing round pickets to rails with raw-hide thongs.  There were no animals about; all being in teams hauling ore from the mines.  The fuel used around here was sage-brush, hauled to the village on hay-racks, and lay in ricks.  In spite of the unpromising nature of the scene the school ma'am was abroad, for in a weather-beaten building, with the shingles and weatherboards curling up their edges in varied lines of beauty the callow children of Tecoma were being taught to the number of a dozen, although school was now out.  The style of teacher who could stand it here I would like to know.  The white, sandy plain and treeless mountains, with the animal kingdom, represented by Chinese, Buckaroos, Rattle-snake Jims, bucking-bronchos, swearing teamsters and horned toads, would drive an average woman crazy in a week.  Strange to say a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>At last we left Tecoma; but from heavy trains and grades we moved slowly.  The track hands were Indians and Chinese, and were par-boiled like lobsters.  White men won't work here.  They will herd cattle, break horses, raise Cain at shooting frolics, and drink whiskey, but they won't labor on the Union Pacific.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Here along the railroads they have sand fences as well as snow breaks.  These are not made tight and upright, but open and aslant, like one sided chicken-coops, and propped.  The sand is so light that the wind would loosen the posts, and the open work prevents drifting; hence this innovation.  Telegraph poles have cairns piled around them and at angles have long braces.  The sand is in deep layers and so loose one can hardly mount the hills.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Towards night we came to a station called Wells, a mining town of nine hundred people.  This name is a contraction--Humboldt Wells being the full title in the old emigrant days.  Here twenty or more circular openings are full of water and without a wave send their brackish water over a grassy desert oasis.  This was a welcome spot and for a day or more early travelers refreshed themselves and hungry cattle for the further desert and mountain journey to California.  A rare sight was here, a delegation of Sabbath school children neatly dressed and headed by their teachers meeting us--a spiritual oasis as contrasting as the temporal one just noted.  The superintendent was called for.  He came forth and received both praise and encouragement from our people as if he was serving the Lord under difficulties, and I think he was.  A woman can get along in such work; she has more faith, a deeper sense of religion and it is thought to come natural to her.  With her the maxim "To be good is to be happy" holds good; even at Humboldt Wells.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>A feature, having its rise perhaps in the times when graves were disturbed by wild beasts, was noticed at the Wells cemetery, where each mound was enclosed with a picket fence; though this was common in the Mission grave-yards in California.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Passing down the Humboldt on heavy grades we came to a large lake into which the river flows.  This body of water is thirty miles long and ten wide.  Its contents are farther conducted to Carson Lake, or Sink, where they are lost.</P>
164.sgm:<P>At Wadsworth we got breakfast.  Near here, at Pyramid Lake, into which the Truckee river flows, is an Indian Reservation.  In its schools are one hundred scholars, in charge of which is a brave hearted woman, willing to spend her time among these semi-human people.  From specimens we saw <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The smart natives had on exhibition, on the plane of the Cherry-colored Cat joke, a Red Bat.  This bird-animal of the odd color was in a slatted, curtained box and with it was the "barker" and assistant, surrounded by a crowd of tourists, ennuyed with a long wait and keen for something whereby to pass away the time.  The loquacious exhibitor advertised his "rara avis" as found up the wilds of the Chuck-a-luck canyon and by special arrangements on free admission to Christian Endeavorers, only.  There was a dog also in the game and the assistant had much to do to keep him from breaking into the frail cage, while the "barker" made show of the fierceness of his charge by thrusting his hand neath the curtain and redrawing it with cries of pain.  Then a tender-foot was asked to take a free peep and see the crimson monster; next a roar of laughter; then the victim was inducing another to look in and share his burden.  An old buck, Captain Charlie by name, with wrinkles in his stoical face of a depth to plant potatoes in, and with signs of age denoting him too old a Piute to be caught with such bait was coaxed to look in, but his face afterward did not show a change.  Then the assistant would feed the bat with cautious fingers, and carefully renail a loose slat, with "don't crowd the thing; he is used to the fresh air of the mountains, don't hold the curtain up so long"--to the victim--"you'll hurt his eyes."</P>
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164.sgm:<P>It was a Brick Bat!  Thus did the desert denizens guy the guileless children of the East!</P>
164.sgm:<P>Following up the Truckee river we start on the ascent of the Sierra Nevada.  At the town of Truckee we are in the heart of a lumber district which would the current year cut 4,000,000 feet of sawed-stuff, and keep the present mills going one hundred years; so the natives say but it is doubtful.  The logs are brought in water chutes, which on high trestles and through cuts and tunnels come from miles up the mountains.  These flumes are V shaped and logs two feet in diameter are quickly run down them.  Boats of a similar shape carry the employees down to the mills from the woods.  At Truckee station we are but sixteen miles from that "Gem of the Sierras," Lake Tahoe.</P>
164.sgm:<P>In making the Loop for the ascent of the mountains we round Donner Lake, made memorable by the awful fate of an emigrant party who left Missouri in the spring of 1846.  They were a portion of a much larger one from whom they separated at the South Pass to take a "cut-off."  This was a failure, and returning to the point of divergence were so delayed that they did not get to the passes of the Sierra Nevada until the 31st of October, a month behind time.  There were several women and children with the train and from cold and starvation they suffered greatly.  Several heroic efforts were made from the farther side of the mountain to break through the deep snows, as word had gone on of the situation, but additional storms came on and the rescuing party returned unable to accomplish their mission.  At the same time the Donner party were doing their utmost to get over the range; two of the young men never being heard of afterwards.  For six weeks the torments of cold and hunger possessed them, when eight men and five women, in desperation made another attempt.  After a month's wanderings three of the men and the five women reached the settlements on the Sacramento; the rest perished.  The fate of those adventurers was tragic.  Halted by the snows they grew delirious; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Another group of dead bodies was found where the survivors were feasting in the same ghoulish way; even members of the same family on one another.  Lots had been cast, and preparations made for continuing the dread work, but death came kindly to the aid of the wretched emigrants.</P>
164.sgm:<P>There were eighty in the whole party, and thirty-five of these died.  The rest after much suffering forced their way on or were rescued on the route.  The remains were not buried until the next year.  "Remains" was certainly the word; for, from the descriptions given by the burial party, the scene resembled an "after the feast" on the Cannibal Islands.  This is not pleasant reading, but I give it as one of the episodes of overland travel, fresh in the minds of Pacific Coast people on my former journey.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Slowly climbing the mountains we reach the "horse shoe" and from the gained elevation have a fine view of Donner Lake, which we have been circling.  Gleaming in the sunset it is a pleasant memory; but for thoughts of the scenes enacted around its shores fifty years ago.  Nearing the summit we enter the snow sheds which for forty-eight miles hide the landscape except as loosened planks give glimpses of mountain and valley--the first crowned with green hemlocks; the last sparkling with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Darkness came on us when we struck the Sacramento, so we saw nothing until we reached Oakland on the morning of July 7, twenty-six hours behind time.  We had crossed San Pablo <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VI.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>Around San Francisco.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh, City of the many hills!<LB>Of Wind and Fog and glaring Sun!<LB>I greet thee kindly since the years<LB>That time has made a two-score run.<LB>For natural action, each on each,<LB>Will neutralize thy triple ills;<LB>And then I know thy Cable-cars<LB>Will speedily <HI REND="italics">non est</HI>
164.sgm:<P>MY first arrival in San Francisco--Christmas Day, 1858--was after a six-months' journey over the Plains, full of hardships undreamed of in its inception.  One would naturally think after this that my arrival, even as "a stranger in a strange land," would not cause my heart to rise throatward.  But we are strangely, as well as wonderfully made.  I have known men of gentle natures, who would not harm the humblest creature, when turned into soldiers in our late war, so change from circumstantial surroundings that they did not fear death in any form, nor hesitate to take human life in the way of their dread trade, and this through the war's duration.  I have known these same men, on returning to the walks of peace, to so fall back in their old ways as to take insults unrebuked from stay-at-homes, too cowardly to fight for their country.  Thus I felt the same dread to enter this friendless city as if I had never passed through my six-months' hardening.  My second arrival was after four months of unpleasant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE MISSION DOLORES</P>
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164.sgm:<P>If attention had not been drawn to the matter most people would say San Francisco faced the ocean.  It is the way coast cities have and the reply would be natural.  Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore and Charlestown face the ocean; San Francisco does not.  Located on the eastern side of a point of land between the Bay and the broad waters stretching towards Asia it looks to the rising sun; a fact that should be omenous to its people, but I doubt if they ever thought of it.  It is near the northern end of the peninsula, where the narrowing waters sweep westward to the Golden Gate.</P>
164.sgm:<P>None of the trunk lines can reach the city dry-shod.  From the East, North and South two ferriages are required for the former two, and one for the latter.  The trains over the Northern Pacific and Central Pacific come down the western shores of the Sacramento, cross an arm of the Bay, into which that river flows, on a huge ferry-boat and passing over the Contra Costa plains land the passengers on the end of a three-mile pier at Oakland, whence they are ferried six miles over the Bay to San Francisco.  The trains from the southeast pass down the San Joaquin Valley and meeting the same railroad, where the other trains are ferried over, go on to Oakland; but one ferriage being needed.  When the road down the coast is finished these trains can land in the heart of the city as they do now from a point 300 miles south; but the other roads must always supplement with ferriage.</P>
164.sgm:<P>What is now a straight line on the San Francisco front was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF SAN FRANCISCO--GOLDEN GATE IN THE DISTANCE."</P>
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164.sgm:originally indented with a deep cove, over which, in the most extended portion, are now six squares.  This extended from Rincon Point South to Clarke's.  In the early years of the city this, called Yerba Buena--Good Herb--Cove, and where Dana and his shipmates beached their boats in 1836 was the landing place for vessels drawing eight feet of water, at high <illus entity="a164-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>YERBA BUENA COVE--1847.</P>
164.sgm:tide.  Afterwards the streets were extended by wooden wharves to a line from point to point.  Between these were several vessels blown ashore in storms or deserted by their crews and these were left and gradually filled around with the gradings from the adjacent hills.  At my first visit what is now solid land was wharves and buildings on piles; a dumping place for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Speaking of fortune brings "Lotta" again to mind, for if hers is not "outrageous," it is immense and as she is a good financier it is well husbanded--which she is not.  When I saw her she was a theatrical waif, drifting back and forth from mining camp to city, a child of twelve years with none guessing her prosperous future.  Her mother always traveled with her.  She has left the stage from failing health and now lives in the south of France.  I wonder if she ever thinks of the "Bit Theatre" over the surging wharf waters of San Francisco, her humble co-performers and the manager, Miss Rowena Granice?  On Market <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:street is a gilded fountain presented to the city by the little actress, and known as Lotta Fountain.  It is twenty feet high and four feet across with relief figures representing Commerce, Agriculture, Mining, &amp;c.  The fogs are pitiless and it requires gilding annually, it not being such a work of art as to make that a superfluity, as per Shakespeare; in fact critics call it a <illus entity="a164-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HOW THEY BUILT THE SHIPS IN.</P>
164.sgm:tawdry affair, but on the principle of not looking a gift horse in the mouth the Franciscans make no comments, but apply the gold-cure regularly as the seasons roll and say nothing about the fog.  This air-sponge is a tender subject with these people.  It is raw, cold and darkening, and soon dulls the brightness of paint; an item in a city where so many of the houses, even <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The first place I visited after getting settled was the old Mission of San Francisco Dolores, about two miles south of Market street.  In 1858 this was an attraction; not from any sentiment lingering around the time-honored place, but its running streams made the only green spot in the vicinity of the city, and besides there were beer-gardens, and it had been a place for bull-fights, horse racing and bear-baiting under the old Mexican regime.  A plank road led thence from the plaza, and omnibusses ran half-hourly and carried out many pleasure seekers.  Of the Mission buildings there was nothing left but the church and two or three of the store-houses and work-shops, built of adobes and roofed with tiles.  The Mission itself was what attracted me then, as it did now, and I had become still more interested in the works of those contemporaries of our Pilgrim fathers, the Mission Fathers of California, since my first visit.</P>
164.sgm:<P>On June 17; preceding our own Declaration of Independence, a company of Spanish soldiers, with their families and three priests, Palen, Camben and De la Pena; all under the spiritual guidance of the noted Father Juniperra Serra, left Monterey and marched up the coast seeking a new station whereat the heathen savages might be turned into good Christians.  At the Laguna <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The first reverberations of the cannon announcing the completion of the rude fort at the Presidio had hardly sounded before the natives who gathered around the priests on their coming <illus entity="a164-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FRANCISCO BAY AS THE MISSION FATHERS FIRST SAW IT.</P>
164.sgm:fled to the islands and other hiding places, so that when the fathers with planted cross, ringing bell and swinging censor, prepared a spiritual completion of the Spanish occupation of land around the Bay of San Francisco there was no response to their invitation to the gentiles.  These were finally sought out, however, and kind treatment brought their rude minds to realize that the new comers from the far South were their friends.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Saint Francis' day, October 4, 1776, was the time set apart for the formal dedication; but the Commandante Moraga was not there, and as cannon, muskets and plenty of powder were wanted, they must wait for him.  On the 9th he arrived and, with the necessary ordnance stores, all was ready for the dedication; and now with the figure of the good saint borne at their head, and priests, soldiers and wandering Indians following, they marched `round and' round the mud-walled church amid the rattle of musketry and bang of cannon.  The noise did for organ music while the powder-smoke made the incense.</P>
164.sgm:<P>It was some months before the bulk of the Indians were converted, and it must be confessed the good Fathers had to call on the Commandante more than once for temporal aid to corral the thankless savages, when their spiritual powers failed to control the instinctive lapses of the red heathen to their former state.  This resulted in the transmission of some lead-laden notes from the pipes of the organ which played at the Mission dedication; so that the music which erstwhiles soothed the savage beast in this case quieted it until it was stilled forever; in plainer English in trying to make the heathens Christians several were made into what our western friends call "good Indians;" but all come out right in the end.  The converts increased and the Mission prospered so that by 1825 there were 800 Indians in the folds of the Church, and scattered among the hills and valleys south of the Mission were 7600 cattle, 3000 horses, 800 mules, 79,000 sheep, 2000 hogs and 450 yoke of oxen.  The wealth was further increased by 18,000 bushels of wheat and barley, $60,000 in specie and merchandise; besides a new and quite imposing collection of Mission buildings were erected.  The converts had built themselves comfortable homes around the plaza and were getting inured to the ways of civilized life, living in families and endowed with a certain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:amount of negative religion; infinitely preferable to their former heathenism.  Under unfriendly legislation, by which the Missions were secularized by the Mexican government; and their lands taken from them and the power of the Fathers curtailed, they gradually went down; so that by 1835 the converts numbered but 370, and the cattle and horses but 5600.  In 1845 the Home government, finding the Missions disintegrating and the Indians relapsing into savagery, made an effort to have a <illus entity="a164-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OLD MISSION DOLORES.</P>
164.sgm:partial return to the former condition; but it was too late; they had had a taste of easy life from the theft and slaughter of the wandering cattle and work no longer agreed with them; so their adobe and mud plastered huts melted to the ground, for want of care, under the winter rains, and nothing was left of the well-named Mission of Sorrows but the Church and the few tiled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>It was a beautiful afternoon when I made my second visit to the old Mission; this time not in a rumbling omnibus through a sandy waste, but in smartly gliding trolley cars over well paved streets and past fine residences.  I will not go into emotional gush over the change in surroundings between the time of the two visits; but simply say it was wonderful.  Asphalt paved streets replaced the temporal plank road as it had superceded the sandy trail; brilliant arc lights the candles and oil lamps that flickered from the saloon and few surrounding houses; the electric cars the omnibuses, as they had supplanted the ox-carts of one hundred years ago, and comfortable homes were all around.  A large brick church stood near the adobe Mission and took its place for purposes of worship.  To widen the street a strip had been taken from the grave-yard and iconoclastic utililarianism had cut the end from the Mission building, the historic facade with its columns, balcony and belfry, and then with wretched effect undertaken to make it look as of old.  The rude neophytes, under the direction and inspiration of the Spanish Monks wrought what modern art failed in; at least the "restored" columnar front of "Dolores," with the attempted imitation of the bell-arches in the gable where swung the historic bells, with the trowel marks still showing, so impressed me.</P>
164.sgm:<P>But the grave-yard adjoining--the Campo Santo, Holy Field, of the Mission Dolores!  When I saw it last it was neatly kept and the graves ornamented with flowers and shells.  Now it was a gruesome wilderness, with the marks of despoiled graves.  No longer used as a burying ground but little care is given it.  The wooden pale fences lean over, and heavy turned posts, with ornamental connections, lie around graves where depressions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:show the removal of former tenants.  Many of the slabs are of rotting wood and around all are rank weeds and tangled vines.  Broad tomb-stone shaped frames, eight and ten feet high and six wide, apparently to protect the plants and flowers once there from the fierce winds at times prevailing, abound.  Some had lattice work projecting like hoods, around which withered vines were clinging.  Many were rotting and ready to fall.  With their scrolled heads they had a singular look.  Monuments of <illus entity="a164-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE MISSION DOLORES AS IT IS NOW.</P>
164.sgm:wood or stone were in all conditions of decay.  The childrens graves, each enclosed with a picket fence and sea shells long ago placed over them had a pathetic look.  Some noted characters are buried here.  <HI REND="italics">Hie jocet</HI>
164.sgm:, Yankee Sullivan, the prize fighter, and that other notoriety, who killed William Star King, "of William," as he was called, in 1856.  I noted his monument in "A California Tramp"--a memorial to a murderer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:being a novelty; while the inscriptions and emblems were also <HI REND="italics">outre</HI>
164.sgm:<P>One monument was of interest in a more agreeable way--to the first Govenor of California.  The inscription was in Spanish saying "Here lie the remains of the Captain Don Luis Antonio Arguello, first Mexican Governor of California; born in San Francisco in 1784; died there in 1830."  A tall shaft marks the resting place of a young girl suicide; an unusual circumstance in a Catholic cemetery, and a very humble stone the grave of a woman 107 years old.  In contrast was the grave of a child of a few months, buried fifty years ago.  The rank poisonous weeds and wooden tombs, erect and prone; uncouth and weather-beaten, make the old grave-yard a depressing place.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Visitors are not profusely welcomed around the Mission Dolores; in fact some get scant courtesy and are then turned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:the utmost.  The walls were of adobes, unless easily dressed stone was at hand.  The clay was sometimes poor, as was the case around Dolores, and as the bricks were simply sun-baked <illus entity="a164-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ALTERNATE TRUSSES FOR SUPPORTING ROOF OF DOLORES MISSION.</P>
164.sgm:</ILLUS>the chances for the walls tumbling down were many while the heavy timbers were being placed thereon, and more than one luckless friar, and the records do not say how many neophytes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Up a rickety ladder I passed to the loft.  The floor was covered thick with the sand blown by the fierce winds which at times whirl around here and which sifts through the tiles and open belfries.  The present Mission was built in 1792, as this was the date of the bells.  As was the custom of the times these were named; one, the "Ave Maria Purissima"--Mary the Purist--another the "San Martin."  While trying to decipher the third, by brushing off the accumulated dust, my guide, the sexton's boy, warned me to desist, as I might start a chime from it and let his master know we were up there.  It was the custom to have the Mission bells to have some saintly name and hung with ceremonies creating awe to the simple Indian mind.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Dust-covered and dingy with their hundred years of service these brazen relics of the Mission days, rudely hung in their open arch-ways were an impressive sight.  They had rung out invitations to the heathen savages, called the Angelus and tolled for the dead of the generations sleeping around them.  It was of these bells that Bret Harte wrote those beautiful verses, "The Angelus," on hearing their sunset call to prayer.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I hear your call, and see the sun descending<LB>On rock, and wave, and sand,<LB>As down the coast the Mission voices blending<LB>Girdle the heathen land.<LB>"Within the circle of your incantations<LB>No blight nor mil-dew falls;<LB>Nor fierce unrest, nor lust, nor low ambition<LB>Passes these airy walls.<LB>"Borne on the swell of your long waves receding,</HI>
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164.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I touch the farther past--<LB>I see the dying glow of Spanish glory,<LB>The sunset dream and last."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>In the long years ago when I wandered about the Mission grounds I felt a fascination which reappeared on my second visit.  The quaint Moorish front with its columns and arches, and the overhanging tiled roof were reminders of the past, where hundreds of converted Indians thronged around where now there are none.  The Mission itself, with one exception, is the only building left of the many once here.  And this is protected from the ravages of winter rains by rough weather boarding.  The Franciscans in general do not seem to set much value on this aged land-mark, but tourists are attracted towards it and during the Excursion summer numbers made pilgrimages to Dolores, but few were privileged to enter the church.  The "Ultima Thule" of the Northern march of the Missions, it is held in reverence by historians and the sentimental; and under the protection of the "Land-marks Club," organized to preserve the various Mission buildings from ruin, its salvation is assured.</P>
164.sgm:<P>From the solemn old Mission and uncanny grave-yard to the underground squaller and barbaric display of China-town the transition is abrupt and startling.  There were two ways of "doing" this locality; one as the Christian Endeavorers "did" it; the other, as small parties of men, with morbid curiosity, and guides ready to pander to the worst tastes, accomplished their ends.  What these saw proved that to compare men and women to beasts, libeled the beasts.  What we saw was the tamest of slumming on our part, and giving us the least they could for the money was the mission of our guides.  One of these was a Chinaman, the other a white native, and the thoughts of what they would show us made us shudder and feel conscience-smitten for fear we were doing something naughty that our home friends would censure us for when our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The whole of the sights in Chinatown; so covered with mystery in our imaginations; was so like a set-up job, on us of the feet so tender, from Joss House to Opium Den, that it palled on the senses.  The guides were a pair of fakes, the Joss House seemed like a store, and the opium "victims" as if sharing the money we paid the guides; and I was glad to leave the scenes and get some fresh night air.  After we got back to the starting point we found the balance of our crowd impatiently waiting our coming so as to get their turn "slumming" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>TELEGRAPH HILL.</P>
164.sgm:<P>In 1849 a signal station was established on a high point on the shore north of the city and in clear weather commanding a view of the Golden Gate, eight miles away.  There incoming vessels were signaled and, in the language of the "semaphor," their rig and general style was communicated to merchants and newspaper men by its enterprising projector.  Afterwards an outer station was built on Point Lobos, where ships far out at sea were descried and "semaphored" to Telegraph Hill, and thence to awaiting eyes.  The fogs were sometimes a drawback, but the electric telegraph in time partly obviated that.  In 1858 this was a point of note.</P>
164.sgm:<P>To take a look from the top of this old land-mark, so plainly in view from my sixth-story restaurant at the foot of Market street, I one afternoon wended my way through the crowded thoroughfares which lay over the old Cove of Yerba Buena.  Soon came the ascent.  First there were pavements of increasing grade till they became so steep that slats had to be nailed on the board walk to prevent slipping.  In ascending it was easy for one to imagine himself a chicken going to roost.  The higher streets were lined with the houses and shanties of Italians and the decendants of the original Mexican-Indian population which once gathered around the old Mission Dolores.  Here, driven at last by the crowding, jostling Americans, these retrograding remnants of the mingled blood of the first settlers call to mind the place of "The last sigh of the Moor."  Shoved much farther and they will be down a rocky precipice and into the Bay.  On the slatted pavement young hoodlums abounded--teasers of cats and dogs and one another, and participants in all manner of rude horse-play.  Beyond the "chicken walk" the ascent was by rough goat-paths; so steep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Twelve years ago a conscienceless party, though enterprising withal, built a tower-crowned structure on the edge of Pioneer Park, then in its glory; for the city was disposed at that time to beautify its heirloom, even if it involved an elemental conflict.  The building was an immense affair, and seen for miles around from sea and land.  The main floor was used for barroom, low variety performances and the worst of uses.  Your San Franciscan man of the world is no hypocrite; his apologist compares him favorably with the Boston man at the other end of the latitudinal line, who hides his vices while his opposite manfully lets the light on his own.  My own observations teach me that hypocricy is sometimes preferable to candor; for the last is so often an excuse for wrong doing, while the first, at least, shows respect to decent surroundings.  To accommodate frequenters of the pleasure resorts on Telegraph Hill, Millionaire Sutro extended his street-cable system to the summit; but an accident on the steep incline, and scant travel caused its abandonment, and it is now a ruin like the Park above.  The wooden castle, now also owned by Sutro, since the sheriff sold it, is in decadence and no longer a resort for pleasure seekers.  It is a credit to the city below that this is so; for San Francisco needs moral apologies; still it may be that Vice, being an easy going attribute, finds more accessable haunts than this wind-swept place, and so avoids it.</P>
164.sgm:<P>On account of the inequalities of the Hill a part of this building is much lower than the rest and, with the cupola for his head the whole is in semblance of the sitting figure of a weather-beaten roue, deserted by his holiday friends and awaiting the final summons.  The view from the cupola was one of the attractions of the place and to attain it I knocked at one of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:doors, and an unkempt little girl made her appearance, and led the way upward through the silent, dust-strewn theatre and bar-room as we went.  My guide told me her parents and their six children were the sole tenants of this one time observatory and pleasure resort; that Mr. Sutro gave $20,000 for it and let them have it rent free.  After a long ascent we came to the glass-enclosed lookout, and fine, indeed, was the view.  To the Northwest were the pillars of the Golden Gate; on the North <illus entity="a164-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OAKLAND IN 1858.</P>
164.sgm:Saucilito, with Mt. Tamilpais rising high above it; West, in succession, were Alcatraz, Angel and Goat Islands, with the towns of Berkley, Oakland and Alameda on the shores beyond.  Back of them the Contra Costa Hills arose in uneven ridges, with Mont Diablo towering over all.  Looking over the city on the left was the Call Building rising fifteen stories in defiance of possible earthquakes in the future such as have rattled the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>While looking around the merciless fog was coming in through the Golden Gate and soon the hills facing the straits, Saucilito and the base of high Tamilpais were hidden, and, creeping stealthily in, the mist was eating the view along the Contra Costa shores, from Berkley southward and the peaks of the islands only were seen.  Passing down the tower steps, followed by the clattering feet of the children and through the halls where the gilded youth of the city below formerly caroused I left the breezy ruins of Pioneer Park and clambering down the hill passed homeward.</P>
164.sgm:<P>AROUND THE GOLDEN GATE.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Who visits the opening of San Francisco Bay on the ocean takes the chance of the often present fog hiding it from his view.  I was compelled to make a second visit, when all was bright.  The setting sun shone straight in; the waves danced and gleamed under its light and I was reminded of Bayard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:Taylor's poem; written for Jenny Lind, on her visit to America, referring to this place:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Whose beauties unfold<LB>And opes to the sunset her Gateway of Gold."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>I stood on Point Lobos; a mile across was the Punta Bonita, or Pretty Point of the old Spaniards, and between these the waves surged grandly in.  Near by a bell-buoy rang its solemn <illus entity="a164-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ENTRANCE TO THE GOLDEN GATE.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Near here are the Sutro Baths where in large glass buildings bathers disport in heated water brought in from the adjacent sea.  Snow and frost are here practically unknown, yet here in July was shown this anomaly.  Down chutes, head or feet foremost, the merry men and women seek the tempered waters while hundreds look on from the balconies.  In the adjoining pavillion the air is vibrant with music while on the rocks below seals bark and gulls scream above them.  Near here is Sutro Park, on the edge of which lives the Hebrew miner who made his millions from the great drainage tunnel bearing his name.  The Park is full of trees, flowers and tropical shrubbery, including many large palms and century plants and statues innumerable.  The surrounding fence is of pickets twenty feet high, although the grounds are free to the public.  Mr. Sutro owns the baths and the trolley road leading thereto.  The steam narrow-guage is owned by the Southern Pacific, and Sutro had great trouble in building his line as the two roads run for some distance on the same street.</P>
164.sgm:<P>From the Cliff House, perched on a rock overhanging the sea there is a fine view ocean-ward and here pleasure seekers from the city while away many an idle hour looking at the in and outgoing ships, the seals disporting on the rocks below and listening to a band which plays here in afternoos.  To the man of leisure and means it is easy to kill Time around San Francisco.</P>
164.sgm:<P>On my way out I saw some odd looking grave-yards a mile or so back from the Park and hearing one of them was a Chinese I walked back thereto.  Who ever tries walking through the sands here met with knows work.  I tried the route, tramp-fashion, on the ties of the trolley and on the wagonroad, but it was all the same, one sand-drift after another.  The country was unsettled and hoboes abounded, so I was glad from named causes to end my journey.  This was a burial section, where amid weedy hills of loose, yielding sand, Jews, Italians, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:Chinese, Japanese and the denizens of the Almshouse rest after the world is done with them.  An oasis in this desert of God's Acres was the cemetery of a German society; a garden of floral splendor in a wasts of weed-tufted sand dunes.  The graves and plots were covered with geraniums three or four feet high and bright with bloom, brought about by daily watering.  The contrast with the surrounding grounds was remarkable.  The Italian, Jewish and cemeteries of similar people were uninteresting save from there desolate surroundings; but the <illus entity="a164-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS.</P>
164.sgm:Chinese grave-yard!  To reach it I waded through the sands and weeds of that of the Italians and the Poor-house.  At the last were hundreds of narrow, wooden slats, numbered to high figures telling where lie the paupers of the Land of Gold.  Wading through more weeds and sand, some tea-chest literature over a rickety gate-way told me where Wah Lee, Hop Sing and his brethren temporarily rest.  This cemetery is divided off into lots of about forty feet wide on each side of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>I found a young hoodlum sportsman on the grounds shooting birds with a "cane-rifle" he had smuggled out from the city as the authorities would not tolerate such unseemly sport.  His luck had favored him as the bulging pocket of his coat showed.  An admiring lad of his species assisted him as "retriever."</P>
164.sgm:<P>This boy was a character, who with abnormal mind haunted this gruesome section of dead-man's land until he was full of knowledge of Chinese burial and the subsequent legalized ghoulishness.  Except when aiding the hunter in his unholy calling he was chattering details more interesting than appetizing of the strange burial customs, the viands spread for the dead, the squabbles between tramps and dogs for the "funeral baked meats," and the exhumations and bearing away of the osseous Chinese remains.</P>
164.sgm:<P>On our way home we passed Lone Mountain Cemetery where Broderick lies buried and afterwards, on a hill overlooking the city, Laurel Hill, where repose, after official labors, thirteen United States Senators--certainly an unlucky number--for them.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Stopping to rest on our homeward way we came across a talkative man who had been farmer, miner, an all around general utility man in California and not so full of loyalty to his state but what he could see both sides of her shield.  The farmers, he said, were ruining the land with excessive cropping; for want of a market thousands of tons of fruit were rotting; the philoxera was destroying the vineyards, the morals of the large towns were dreadful and the youth being ruined.  Like a great many impartial men he seemed to see but one side--the dark one.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>But I was impressed with the lack of respect for religion I found here, among those from whom I had a right to expect a different feeling.  To the embodiement of Eastern Evangelical Christianity--our Christian Endeavors--I could expect to see directed the sneers of Italians, Chinese and street-corner loafers; but to hear disrespectful remarks from intelligent women grated harshly on the ear.  With us the respectable of the gentler sex take the lead in religion, or, it not active they are passive and attend church to be in the fashion, if for nothing else.  Unless I was misled by exceptional cases this is not the condition of things in California.</P>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VII.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>TO MONTEREY.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Where spreading live-oaks punctuate the plain<LB>And green the foot-hills of the serried range,<LB>And laden orchards, fields of ripening grain,<LB>And pastures flecked with cattle interchange,<LB>Where rang the Mission bells from tower and glade;<LB>Where thronging converts bowed to christening hand;<LB>Where lowly, red-tiled homes of gray lay spread<LB>In fostering shades of churches, rising grand,<LB>Unheeding much we go our rushing course,<LB>Drawn by the iconoclastic steam-fed horse.</HI>
164.sgm:<P>ON July 12 we took an excursion to the old town of Monterey; noted for its fine bay, quaint houses and historical associations, and last but first in the eye of your Average Traveler, the Del Monte Hotel and surrounding park and gardens.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Passing out of the southern limits of San Francisco we rolled over the old Mission lands where, when Dolores was in its prime, thousands of cattle, horses and sheep pastured under the dominion of quiet herdsman or dashing vaquero, with the guiding hand of the Mission Fathers over all.  With the ocean on our right and the southern arm of the shallowing bay on our left we roll down the widening peninsula.  Bare mountains overlooking the sea were seen awhile in depressing monotony.  These soon became wooded and the plains fertile.  The farmers had most of their wheat cut and were busy harvesting and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The plains began to be more thickly dotted with live-oaks--in such numbers, in fact, that I wondered the farmers tolerated them; but I learned that the roots of these ever-greens lie so far below the surface that vegetation is not affected.  The truth is that grass grows better in their shade; besides they are a refuge for cattle from the burning rays of the sun.  These trees impressed me the same as did those on the foot-hills around my old Sonoma home in their resemblance to old apple trees; whether singly or in groups.  In many instances they stood at an incline, as if constant winds had bowed them down.  Some of their trunks were three feet across, and they shaded a diameter of sixty to eighty feet.  Scattered over grain-fields and pasture lands, or thickly wooding the hills, they were a very picturesque feature of the landscape; made more so when the earth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>At San Jose we dined.  The pronunciation is <HI REND="italics">San Hozay</HI>
164.sgm:, but we people allowed ourselves much latitude; the freedom of our conntry extending to the Pacific; so we called it as above, or Saint Jo, Saint Josey, San Josey, or whatever came handy; similarly we converted the Spanish article corresponding to <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
164.sgm: in Los Angeles and Los Gatos (two towns whose names mean "The Angels" and "The Cats") into "those" or "lost;" thus Those Angels, or Those Cats, or Lost Angels or Cats.  By the way "The Cats" would have a funny sound if applied to one of our pleasure resorts; the suggestiveness would rather keep off visitors.  San Jose claims 30,000 people; the chief industry being the canning and drying of fruit.  We found the sun hot enough to cook the fruit before canning, consequently its drying qualities go without saying.  Southward from San Jose, between the enfilading mountains, the air was so oppressive we could hardly bear it.  The sun beat down as if of molten brass and parched the adobe ground until riven by yawning seams, but no one, man or beast, appeared to care.  They knew, as the sun lowered, cool breezes would sweep in from the sea and all would be well.  As we sped along each valley seemed more fertile than the last.  Thousands of acres of alternating orchard, grain-field and pasture, interspersed with large tracts of onions, beets and strawberries were passed.  Apricots, peaches and apples were being picked and boxed up.  The mowing machines were rattling away and while some of the oats was put <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:tropical plants and flowers are hotel buildings accommodating 700 people.  Palms of all kinds, century plants of huge dimensions, from one of which in bloom a stalk shot up forty feet high, and <illus entity="a164-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF DEL MONTE AND MONTEREY BAY.</P>
164.sgm:other curiosities in southern vegetation abounded.  We were received with the inn's warm welcome and there being some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Another anomaly, such as we had seen before, only still more prominent; in the land of tropical vegetation, in the month of July, an ocean watering place where the bath-houses were enclosed and the sea water heated to make it comfortable for the bathers!</P>
164.sgm:<P>Early next morning my friend and I walked to the old church of San Carlos on the edge of the town.  It has been modernized, the walls plastered; cushioned pews taking the places of rude benches, or, before them, the bare earth; stained glass windows the scant openings of old; recent paintings and high colored pictures the quaint limning done by Spanish artist or Indian apprentice.  The church was not open so we went to an old adobe house for enquiry.  Passing a resistive dog I went to an open door where a typical Spanish-Indian couple were eating breakfast.  A carpetless floor; bare, wooden table; rude benches; meat in a fiery stew; a cup of water to extinguish it; some coarse bread, with Jose and Merced stolidly partaking of the rude viands; all took me back to the Mission days, long past.  After some trouble I made them understand our errand--this unlike Alissandro-Ramona couple--when the woman went with us to the church, and the sexton being come, she took us in and in hushed tones with occasional obeisances, as we passed sacred objects, tried to answer our enquiries.  Our talk under favorable out-door auspices was but a jargon of Pigeon English and Spanish and we were both relieved when I gave her a fee, which, as usual was about as small as the donor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>From here we passed on to the town--once the capital of California; now showing many remains of Spanish or Mexican occupancy.  Here Fremont raised the stars and stripes and took formal possession of the country.  The old Capitol and Custom House are still intact.  Some of the old adobes are in ruins, and their tumbling walls, scattered tiles and bared timbers, reminders of old Mission days, are of saddening interest.  Some are renovated so as to be habitable; all picturesque in the extreme, with their red roofs and gray walls.  Chalk abounds here, and in some instances was used for foundations on which to build the sun dried brick walls of one hundred years ago.  But the people are not very amorous of the antique and wonder why the "gringos," or green-horns, care for the red-tiled tumble-down buildings; so they use them for stables, stores and saloons as long as they will hold together; and as the house falls so it lies; one of the old buildings, store-house, convent or something of the kind, was used as a Presbyterian Mission.</P>
164.sgm:<P>At 8 o'clock we started on the "seventeen-mile drive;" out the bay, down the coast and over the hills to place of starting.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>There were about four hundred booked for the excursion, and, here let me add, preserve me from such crowds!  The saving in rates is as nothing compared to the discomfort of such rushing, jamming, Satan-take-the-hindmost way of enjoyment.  As the coaches held from six to sixteen, and all wanted to go in the nicest, and there were all kinds to fill the want, and to sit next the driver, there was confusion worse confounded.  The one who is <HI REND="italics">de trop</HI>
164.sgm:, in a full stage is not to be envied.  He is the last man to get in; has paid his fare and has equal rights with the rest; but his companions sour on him until he feels like getting out and walking.  We had one of these in our coach and I pitied him, as on the ragged edge of a seat he tried to enjoy the beauties of sea and land, while seated between, or rather in front of two school-ladies.  A good portion of our party was composed of these.  School was out and they were abroad.  No more listening to the recitations of a-b-abs, and the ascending scale therefrom, until the pupils "commencement" gave relief.  Some of these were very smart; once in a while you would come across one too cute for anything.  I saw a gentleman who had been up the coast before, who thought he knew a thing or two and felt justified in addressing a stranger, say to one of these wanderers, who weeks ago had bidden adieu to home and manners in the far East, as he pointed to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:prominent evergreen, "That is a Live Oak," "Yes," said she, "I suppose so.  I see it is not a dead one."  And then the well kept countenance that showed the sayer a despenser of <HI REND="italics">bon mots</HI>
164.sgm:<P>To see the proportion in numbers of the two sexes on our excursion one would think men cared little for travel, or else had more to do, as they composed but about one-third.  This was partly accounted for by the number of women teachers released from their labors, and by men generally having less religion thus making them a minority among the Christian Endeavorers.  "'Tis true, 'tis pity; pity 'tis, 'tis true;" but let that go.</P>
164.sgm:<P>But I am making little progress with my stage-ride.  One after another our conveyances, from stately Concord coach, carrying sixteen, to humble four-seater started off and at last went ours.  Now here is my time to bring in <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Crack went the whips; round went the wheels.<LB>Were ever folks so glad?"</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Although I cannot truthfully say our whips cracked, but the axles stood a chance to from our loads.  The wheels certainly went round and our folks were as glad as any sardines, tightly packed, could be.  Through the streets of Monterey we whirled by crumbling walls, by tiled buildings of a way-back age when the Mission Fathers held sway, and the Indian converts humbly followed their teachings and did their bidding at manual labor; in tilling land, herding, in workshops and factory, and in the erection of buildings, which for design, massiveness and work-manship make us wonder.  Past the old Custom House, by the Embareadero, where many a galleon once anchored; by the cross marking the spot where Father Junipera Serra landed in 1773, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>A peculiar feature of the coast our route skirted was the cypresses.  Battling with the merciless ocean winds for centuries some had succumbed to fate, while others seemed endowed with a fighting chance for life.  The first with unrooted trunks and gnarled limbs clawing the air looked like the skeletons of giant, octopean monsters, bleached to bony whiteness; the others almost prone to earth still raised their limbs in air; their tufted extremities seemingly waving defiance to the enemy, wierd and ghastly in their contorted shapes.  If they could be imagined with feeling there was an indescribable pathos in their looks.</P>
164.sgm:<P>We stopped at one point to allow our people to gather seashells and such flotsam and jetsam as might interest them, and then, going forward, left the sea.  Our long, straggling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>I made a second visit to the historic town and surroundings of Monterey; mainly to see El Carmelo Mission, four miles away over the hills.  There being no coaches running on my arrival I hired a livery team at Pacific Grove to take me thence.  My driver was a young Mexican with a high sounding Castillian name which I have forgotten, but I will call him Francisco de Carillo.  He was proud of his descent on his father's side and also, on the score of progressiveness, that his mother was an American.  It might have been a common every day name; if so, the matrimonial laws of our country beautified it with Carillo.  He talked fair English; was a good lay figure to try my faulty Spanish on, and did not know the succession of the months, but was quite conceited.  He, like a good many others of greater pretensions, fell back on his family name to cover any sins of omission.  The round price he charged for his outfit was laid to the Del Monte people who would have forbidden him the "Drive," if he cut prices.  Through the old town again <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Down a steep hill went Francisco and his fare at a rattling pace, and turning a shoulder of the hill the Mission of San Carlos Borromeo arose before us in impressive outlines.  Nearly all the surrounding buildings were in ruins; some in standing walls; some mere heaps of clay; remains of tile-covered dwellings which in 1835, when the Mission neared abandonment, sheltered 236 people, and which in prosperous days homed many more.  The first Mission was founded in 1770 at Monterey.  Here the good Padre Serra built a rude chapel of boughs, planted a cross and ringing his bells, swinging from a live-oak belfry, cried aloud towards the hills of Loma, to the gentiles supposed to be there lurking to come forth and be baptized and be made good Christian men and women, as was the custom.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Then the glad tidings from throats of limb-swung bells, fire arms and pious padres having gone forth, the next step was to reap the harvest by gathering in the gentiles.  These were harmless folk, but scary withal at the sounds so unusual in these wilds; so the good Father Juniperra Serra, with his assistant, Father Crespi, were fain to supplement these noises with personal efforts to hunt up the heathen, and when found, to use persuasive gestures and gifts of bright calicoes and trinkets to win them to the church.  They soon had a crowd of converts.  How they understood one another we know not, but there seemed to be a mutual understanding that wrought good, and hundreds of the simple-minded savages would be found around them.  Then followed the pastoral age--California's half century of Romance!</P>
164.sgm:<P>The soldiers at the Monterey Presideio were working harm among the Indians for there were many bad fellows, convicts, released if they would fight for the King, and the like, among the temporal defenders of the Cross, so, six months after the founding of the Mission on the shores of Monterey Bay, the Fathers led their dusky flock over the hill to the Carmelo valley, which they knew to be a goodly place, well watered and stocked with rich grasses, and in the mountain streams were salmon in good numbers.  Here a chapel, houses and a corral were built, with a rough stockade around the whole to protect the converts and their few cattle; the nucleus of the large herds which afterwards pastured these meadows; for there were bad, thieving Indians among the mountains.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The year 1771 was a troublous one to El Carmelo.  The crops failed, and it was only by the game killed in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>To read the doings of the pastoral period of California is soothing to the senses in these days of ceaseless rush and scramble, when the motto is, the de'el take the one who can't <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>But let me get back to my Castillian Jehu whom I left on the hill slope as we caught sight of the San Carlos Mission, while I have been making historical divergence.  We finished our journey and while he hunted up the sexton I looked around among the ruined buildings, but found all but two or three nothing but piles of weather-dissolved bricks.  Those standing were <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Windowless, doorless, roofless--<LB>Nothing but gaping walls,</HI>
164.sgm:<P>and suggestive of sad feelings, which the massive Mission church, towering above them in desolate grandeur, only increased.  This was no common adobe, but was built of dressed, yellow colored stone from a neighboring quarry; the lime used in the mortar from burned sea-shells.  The building was 180 by 70 feet, the front width including two flanking towers.  The belfry was twenty feet square and to the dome-summit, on which was a cross, was ninety feet.  In the rear was a wing which I heard a clerical alarmist say was once a branch Inquisition.  The building was fine in its proportions, and the front, with the arched windows in its towers and solid masonry looked like a Moorish castle.  In its isolated grandeur El Carmelo was the most impressive buildlng I saw on the coast.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Finally the Portugese sexton's boy came up and opening the door stood with out-stretched, itching palm to take his fee.  Two or three other tourists who had lately arrived went in with me.  We found the walls mouldy and bare of pictures and ornaments; in fact church service is held here but once a year; perhaps to hold title to the property; in fact there is no congregation.  There are no pews and the floor is mainly the old tiles.  A rough altar rail fronts the pulpit, and between the two is what looks like a sarcophagus.  Visitors dare not go beyond <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>A tablet beside the altar on the wall gives the interesting information that buried under the floor are the bones of four of the most distinguished Fathers of the California Missions: Juniperra Serra, who died in 1774; Juan Crespi in 1782; Julian Lopez in 1797, and Francisco Lascuen in 1803.  Their place of burial was lost sight of for a long time, but some old documents were found that induced the church officials at Monterey to make a search.  The Mission had long been deserted, the roof had fallen in and rank weeds were growing through the floor; but taking up the tiles there were shown four large slabs which unmistakably marked the resting place of the Padres who lost their lives in their efforts to save the souls of the red gentiles.  There were niches around the chapel for images and relics, and a semi-circular projection from the wall like an oriole window, with steps leading thereto.  Another tablet, over a cross and picture of a heart had the words in Latin, "Oh, Heart of Jesus, ever burning and shining, kindle and illumine mine with thy divine love--Angels and Saints let us praise the Heart of Jesus!"  This was in the gloomy basement of the belfry.  In the tower opposite was a steep winding stair-way of solid masonry leading to the loft.  Here was a stained glass window, on which was represented the Cross, Crown of Thorns, Heart, Saint Peters Mitre and Keys and Sacred Hammer and Nails.  The adjoining room in the tower, not having been repaired, was unsafe and visitors were not allowed therein.  A glance at the large audience room below, eighty years ago thronged with dusky worshippers on regular occasions, and a scene of brilliant ceremonies calculated to please or awe their simple minds and I descended the stair-way to the vestibule where I found all gone but the watchful Portugese sexton.  Hunting up Francisco I was soon on my way from this sad, romantic spot and journeying across the mountains to Monterey.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>My driver had only promised to take me to the Mission but, doubtless impressed with the high charges of his employer, he offered to make out the day, so we drove around the streets of the sleepy old town and amid the tropical beauty and grandeur <illus entity="a164-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ARIZONA GARDEN, DEL MONTE.</P>
164.sgm:of the park of the Hotel Del Monte.  The ribbon beds of foliage plants; flowers of all colors and climes, arranged in every attractive way; roses, heliotropes, tulips, crocuses and callas <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The wooded hills above it; the Bay with its curving lines and bright waves, the streets flanked with alternations of modern buildings, ancient tiled adobes and ruined walls renewed my former impressions of Monterey and I was glad to be there again.  We drove across the head of the Cove where Father Juniperra landed in the long ago and which is marked by a tall, white cross, and above it, crowning a hill, the costly granite monument to his memory built by the widow of Leland Stanford.  This represents the leader of the Mission Fathers standing in a boat in which lies a cross; in one hand a crucifix, the other raised to heaven in benediction.  The inscription reads "Here June 3d, 1770, landed Rev. Juniperra Serra, order of St. Francis, who founded the following Missions: San Diego, August 16, 1769; San Antonio de Padua, July 14, 1771; San Gabriel, September 8, 1771; San Luis Obispo, September 1, 1772; San Francisco de Dolores, October 9, 1776; San Juan Capistrano, November 1, 1776; Santa Clara, January 18, 1777; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Among Eastern tourists interested in the Spanish Missions, the varying attributes of enthusiasm and bigotry, not but what they are sometimes found in one person, were sometimes conspicuous.  Some saw in the remains of the twenty-one establishments scattered along the coast, three or four restored; but mainly in ruins, the work of self-sacrificing Christian Missionaries, willing to lay down their lives, as several did, that the souls of the heathen might be saved, and who incidentally spread a semi-civilization over a land where savagery had hitherto held sway.  Others saw in these monks the tools of the Arch-enemy, whose work it had been to spread a cruel religion; making beasts of burden of its converts, who had best have remained heathen than had their souls saved wrong fashion; greedily pocketing the tithes, and as much more as they dared, of the plunder they turned over to the King; and that the architectural monuments they left behind them are no more to their credit than the temples along the Nile are to the cruel taskmasters of Egypt, who robbed their slaves of the labor which built them.</P>
164.sgm:<P>After coming back to Monterey I met a reverend gentleman whom I had seen on his way to El Carmelo.  He was undoubtedly a good man; but I was speaking about two attributes held by tourists.  Well, his was not enthusiasm.  I am not a crank; no one admits he is; but I have been much interested in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Apropos to this, a stroll around the Monterey fish-wharf was interesting.  Some of the fishermen were getting ready for their nightly catch of sardines wherewith they would tempt the luscious salmon in the morning; their boats being in readiness at the landing.  Others were mending their nets, or sauntering around.  They were mainly Portugese, and to see them with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:their water-side togs; seamen's boats and clothing corresponding; with their flowing whiskers, the traditional corsair of the "low, raking craft" was suggested:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>With a kerchief on his head,<LB>All a dyed a bloody red,<LB>And a pistol bulging boldly from each hip,<LB>And a cutlass in each hand;<LB>With his gizzard full of sand,<LB>And his whiskers spraying out from jowl and lip;<LB>While he loudly raves and roars,<LB>Till he scares the fish in scores;<LB>Scudding Northward, scudding Southward from the ship.<LB>But mine was meek and mild<LB>As any nursing child,<LB>As he listened, and I questioned on the quay<LB>Of the catching of the whale,<LB>That could kill you with his tail,<LB>And the sardine, so different in his weigh.</HI>
164.sgm:<P>The Pacific Whaling Company, a corporation doing as much towards the annihilation of its prey as did the merciless hunter of the Plains to making the Bison a thing of the past, has rendering cauldrons here which annually "do-up" twenty to thirty whales.  These are sometimes eighty feet long, but are not of a kind to yield much oil.  The fishing is not on the old lines, where so much pluck was required, and it is more revolting.  While some of the whalers go out with harpoon and gun in large whale boats, others mount the head-lands of the coast, and with field-glasses look out for spouters.  When a "find" is made these signal to the boatmen who bear down on the monster of the brine.  The first thing to do, when near enough, is to harpoon the whale; the next to bring a whale-gun to bear on him and kill him with dynamite.  This my coarse-hair friend said was a nice thing to do; of course not for the whale.  If fired at right angles the bomb would go through the fish and explode in the water beyond; if at too slight an angle it would glance off; so it must be fired just right and burst before traversing the luckless fish.  The bomb is eighteen inches long and but one inch in diameter; but is a murderous affair.  The reason the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>I suppose there were one hundred fishing boats around the wharf ready to put to sea the following morning for salmon.  The bait is caught the previous evening.  The boats come in about noon, when the catch is at once expressed to San Francisco.  The salmon-fishers realize eight cents per pound for their product.  The largest weigh forty or fifty pounds each.</P>
164.sgm:<P>There is a shell-fish called the Abilone; formerly plentiful about Monterey, but pot-hunting, Japanese fishermen have made them scarce.  This is often six inches or more across, three inches deep, and shaped like half a clam.  It is full of meat and clings to the rocks.  The native fishermen get them with tongs; but the Japanese are driving them from business with new ways.  These Asiatic Yankees have a diving rig whereby they go down and remain long enough to fill a sack with these uni-valves, which they detach from the rocks with a heavy knife.  They are naturally despised by the easy going Portugese.  The shells of the Abilone when scraped are capable of a fine polish, while some are decorated, and all find a ready sale to tourists.  Large quantities are sent to France for the manufacture of pearl buttons, while the flesh is dried and goes to China.  Owing to the destructive fishing the Abilone will soon go the way of pre-historic extinct things.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Among memento-hunting tourists was the "fad" of buying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Monterey is a health resort; in some cases a last resort.  The sight of those in the last stages of consumption, fighting off death, is pathetic.  At the foot of the wharf stairway, fishing, I saw a lady of this class passing away the sunset hour, accompanied by a lad from her boarding house.  Her face showed she was marked for the dreaded journey to the dim beyond, but she had the hopefulness of her kind.  The shadows lengthened by the setting sun as it sank below the distant head-lands of the bay seemed typical of her near future.</P>
164.sgm:<P>I staid over night at a sea-side tavern; by no means up to the Del Monte standard.  There were no gardens of flowers, groves of palms, nor rare trees; but it was surrounded by scenes of great interest from the wave-lapped shore to the suburbs of tile-roofed houses and official buildings of the old regime, and instead of paying two dollars for supper and lodging you got for half that sum an additional meal.  Several fellow tourists stopped there; I may add in self-justification.  I slept on the first floor, and as the window was open, and no fasteners on the sash, and water-side characters withing easy hail, I went to the landlord for protection.  He told me not to fear; all around were honest; but gave me a stick to hold down the sash.  My light was the primitive tallow-dip our fathers used.  Well, this was different from my last stop at Monterey, at the palatial Del Monte, with its electric lights, fine bed rooms, high living and French waiters!  As morning was coming I arose, and lighting my candle, finished my notes of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>As I came up the valleys, which followed one another, the same busy scenes were re-enacted I noticed going South; and more.  I saw plowing by steam; an engine on each side of a field with a cable winding around drums to draw a gang of plows back and forth, while the "headers," threshers and balers were still busy as before.</P>
164.sgm:<P>For a while the heat was intense, but as we came to the bay of San Francisco the air grew cooler until we were obliged to put on our overcoats; so does the temperature vary.  As we neared the city hundreds of wind-mills came in view, swifter running as the wind increased, and pumping their tanks full for the morrow's irrigation.  These grounds were the pastures of the Mission Dolores; the lands near by being too sandy for grass.  Numerous Chinese raise vegetables on this tract, which is divided in small fields, over which the greatest care in cultivation is exercised.  The surface is quite uneven and on the steep slopes of the ravines we see all kinds of truck rankly growing, from frequent watering, in strong contrast with the sand-hills above the level of the tanks.  Through the suburbs and we are at the depot, scattering towards our temporary homes.</P>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VIII.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Around San Francisco Bay</HI>
164.sgm:.<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Happy the man who visits youthful scenes,<LB>O'er which two scores of changing years have rolled,<LB>And from his long-life visit comfort gleans<LB>From face or landscape which he knew of old.<LB>Forms, once familiar, dead or moved away;<LB>Those found, unsympathetic, rudely stare,<LB>The home torn down, rebuilt or in decay,<LB>The trees you loved removed; the wood-lands bare--<LB>You cease your useless quest and homeward fare.</HI>
164.sgm:<P>FOR years, while anticipating my revisitation of California the following in the wake of my tramp in search of work, in company with my comrade "Scottie," was in my mind.  The journey was seventy miles and it was eight days before our ends were accomplished, and I had faith that between livery teams, railroads and steamers I would follow it up but as "Obidah the son of Obensinah, who left the Carivanserai early in the morning" planned such a series of travels and "lived and died within the walls of Bagdad," so did my designs come far short of fulfillment.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>My first strike was for the Ranch in the Petaluma Valley where in tribulation I tried farming, California fashion.  Crossing the Tiberon ferry I went by rail to Petaluma, passing Lakeville on the opposite side of the Petaluma river; the seaport of my old home.  This involved a walk back of eight miles, but I found a good natured wagoner, two miles on my way, who took me in.  He was a son of an old time neighbor.  When I say our ranch was of 1400 acres, and the surrounding tracts averaged about the same the reader will know what a California neighbor meant.  His name was Stewart and he was ostensibly glad of my company, I know I was glad of his; for the sun was glaring down, as only it can in these hill-locked valleys.  It was hay harvest and much of the oats being cut the stackers were busy at work.  The "oat-hay" was dragged by a huge rake, which holds a ton, to the rick.  Here is a derrick and swung from this are claws which gather up a half ton, and horse-power puts it on the rick.  Sometimes a horse with broad wooden shoes is put on the hay to tramp it, and to see him wearily walking around gives one "that tired-feeling."  When the rick nears completion a load of hay is dumped to ease his fall and he is pushed off.  Contractors rick hay for 25 cents per ton.  The farmers, who in my time wasted manure, now save it, and supplement it on wheat with land plaster, the only fertilizer used, at a cost of 55 cents per acre.  The fencing was split, red wood shucks, nailed to poles; making a rough, unsightly enclosure.  Wire is now taking its place.  My friend kept forty cows and sold his milk at 70 cents a hundred pounds.  Farmers here were complaining of their lot as elsewhere.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Arriving at my friend's home I started on a two mile journey over the hills.  Those who don't know the nature of the smaller ridges dividing the valleys which, like the points of a star-fish, radiate from the bay of San Francisco, must be told they are a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>That my visit was a disappointing one is easily seen.  The season was winter when I was here before, and from frequent rains every thing was bright and green; the buildings were new and fresh painted.  Now the earth was parched and blistered, the pasture faded, the house burned down, the spring dry.  My head ached and I was tired with a long walk over the slippery hills, and generally disgusted.  So ended my visit to my ranch home.</P>
164.sgm:<P>My next object was Sonoma, eight miles farther on and under a blazing sun which made my head ache the more, and over a dusty road which kept me tired, I started from my old home.  This way "Scottie" and I tramped on our search for work and I returned over it on my homeward way.  My comrade left the ranch before I did and here was the hill I saw him disappear behind, never to see him more.  To my left arose the divide with its sides dotted or covered with live-oaks and yellow with oats pasture.  In front stretched one of the county roads peculiar to the state.  This, in my time, was a natural track conforming to the surface; with bridgeless gullies, and slanting to the verge of upsetting wagons; while in winter it was almost impassable for mire.  Now it was piked with gravel and was the leading road from Petaluma to Napa.  In the South, and nearer the bay, such roads are kept sprinkled, for there the rainless months make the best of them dusty.  This road was not much traveled and the community was too poor to keep it watered.  My choice lay between the dust and the varied weeds flanking the road.  Canada thistle, dog-fennel, dock and a pest called the tar-weed alternated.  I became as much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The stranger coming to the forks of a road in a thinly settled country like this is at a loss what to do; whether to cut across country a mile or two to the nearest house and enquire, or to takes his chances and go on.  Tired, dust covered and sticky with tar-weed I came to such a dilemma.  Traveling the different paths of religion we are comforted with the thought that all converge on the Happy Land; but reverse the matter and what?  You may find yourself in any one of the cranky ways which calls itself religion.  To make a practical illustration might not the dusty, tar-weed scented highway I was on lead to vagueness?  But look ahead; there, near the roadside, looms up a small building!  A nearer approach shows it a school house.  But it must be vacation time, as in the East; then it will avail me nothing.  But they go a little by contraries here; the vacation is at another season.  The school house is open, and within I hear the buzz of childish voices and the accented tones of the teacher in words of command or instruction.  So I move around to the door, rap on the jambs, and the teacher, who is an Irish girl, leaves her charge of a dozen embodiements of ideas she is teaching lessons in gunnery and comes to the door with a startled look.  I tell her my dilemma; she regains her school room assurance and says I am on the right road to Sonoma.  Then I ask about the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Just after leaving the school house my ears were greeted with the rattle of a vehicle, and shuffling through the dust, I saw a team of horses drawing a light wagon driven by a youth, with a dog on the seat beside him.  The hot sun, tar and dust were doing me up, and as the team came along side I hailed the Jehu commanding, and asked him to act Samaritan for my especial benefit, to which he willingly agreed.  So I climbed in his wagon, the dog getting back to make room for me, and we went on our way.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The young man was the son of a widow who lived in Sonoma.  They ran a chicken ranch, and he had been to Petaluma with a load of live poultry.  As usual I obtained all the information I could of him in reference to the country and people's ways, and found him an easy victim, as we shambled through the heat and dust.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>It was not long before we drove up to the old tavern spoken of; known to me of old as the "Pike County House," as a compliment to the Missouri Pikers settled around.  It is now loaded with the fancy name of El Laurel, as a compliment to the laurels we don't see. It is a lonesome place; but picturesque, withal, in its shade of pepper trees.  The trunk of one of these was eight feet across and its foliage shaded a water-tank which supplied a horse-trough.  No "Ostler Jo" appeared, so my driver turned on the spigot and watered his thirsty ponies, which, with their tar-stained noses down deep in the trough, greedily drank their fill, the while we went in the tavern and the inner man refreshed.  I remembered this place well, for in sight of it I was once "held up," in the sense of being asked to lend a fellow tramp a dollar when I was in no condition to refuse him.  The Pike County House at that time had not the best reputation.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The horses watered, my driver, Walter, and myself, not forgetting the white dog, mounted our open barouche and resumed our way across the undulating country, where land was plenty and homes so few.  For miles before reaching Sonoma five people own the land.  Senator Fair has 5000 acres, Senator Jones, of Nevada, 15,000 more; the last reclaimed along Sonoma creek by levees.  Fair raises horses, but the main part of the large tract was idle.  There were other immense estates in a similar condition.  There were no cross-roads, but once in a while a wagon-track led from the main road to some unseen ranch buildings.  I expected to see this part of the land cut up into prosperous farms.  No wonder school houses were scarce.  We at last got to the Sonoma suburbs where Walter lived, and unloading his crates and dog, a knowing dog he was in his master's mind, my friend took me riding around the town.  This was a great favor to me and no cross to my young friend, who was an easy going lad.  We drove around the old Plaza, where last year the fiftieth anniversary of the hoisting of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>A curiosity of the town, and the land-mark alluded to, was Vicente Carillo--Bassanty Carreeyo--a Mexican Indian, 108 years old by his own admission.  There are times when we minimize our ages; there are others when we brag about our antiquity.  Vicente was of the last, and I thought him justified.  Walter put me on his track and aided by the town mayor--fifty years ago he would have been the <HI REND="italics">alcalde</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Another locality, interesting from my former wanderings, was the valley of Napa, and although disappointed by the late <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:of Nature is changed by deforesting; the reverse was here.  My first interlocutor was a dog who made a rush for me.  Now some say the human eye has a quelling effect on assailing animals, but a club is a much better deterrent.  However, without faith in the first and not thinking it policy to use the last I made use of strategy to keep off the dog, the while I worked my way up to the house.  A young woman on the porch was enjoying the scene.  Under the din of the barking dog I enquired for the captain and a man soon appeared; grum of countenance and roughly clad.  In a few brief words he told me I was on the wrong track, that the particular old-salt I was after had lost its savor and gone to Davy Jones two years ago.  His ranch was the next; his widow might be living there and she might not.  This in tones repellant, while the young woman stared, and the dog snarled.  Says Byron-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"'Tis sweet to hear the watch-dog's honest bark<LB>Bay deep-mouthed welcome as we draw near the home;<LB>'Tis sweet to know there is an eye will mark<LB>Our coming and grow brighter when we come,"--</HI>
164.sgm:<P>but the lines are not applicable here.  That this dog's bark was honest was practically made manifest, and as for his welcome; "speeding the parting guest" was read between the lines.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Having come this far I thought to go farther, and maybe see what Mrs. Partington called the "relic" of my sea-faring friend.  This involved a tiresome walk across fields, with one of those "bete noirs" of California pastoral scenery, a threatening bull, in the foreground; but at last, unharmed, I found the place--and another dog.  But he was asleep, or indisposed, and I walked by him to the door.  Enquiry of a woman on the back steps made known the fact that her mistress had moved away, that none of the family lived there, and that the dog had been the captain's favorite, and for this was allowed to live his borrowed years.  I tried to compare him to Argus, and myself to his master Ulysses, on his return from his wanderings, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>All this was interesting enough, but the Hamlet I had come to see being omitted by circumstances beyond his control, I soon left this ranch, and taking a distant view of another I had known I turned my back on the place with disappointment, and, with the woman staring suspiciously after me, retraced my steps to Napa.  I took a stroll around this town, of interest <illus entity="a164-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"HOW WE TOURED IN '58--`SCOTTIE' AND I."</P>
164.sgm:to me as being where "Scottie" and I spent anything but a Happy New Year in 1859--and our last two "bits."  These went for as many loaves of bread and we thought them small ones.  I remember being refused a stable to sleep in, and allowed the comforts of a straw shed by the relenting owner; the seeking of the warmth of the hotel fire; the optical participation in a ball given by the youth and beauty of the town, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Then I went back to San Francisco.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Here was a land-mark I wished to see and at last found.  This was the What Cheer House--a noted caravansary in the old days.  To read of the number of guests accommodated and the tons of provisions consumed was amazing.  The charge for each item on the fare-bill was one "bit;" which might be ten cents or fifteen cents according as you offered a dime or a quarter.  A peculiarity of this restaurant, in a community like this, was that there was no bar-room attachment; and yet the owner waxed rich.  This was Woodward, later of Woodward's Gardens and Pavillion, a suburban resort.  At the What Cheer "Scottie" and I "mealed," after our coming to San Francisco, as long as our funds, resulting from "spouting" some of our "portable property," held out.  After this we looked in with envy in our hearts at those more favored as they partook of the fare whose unit was a bit.  Of old this was in a respectable part of the town and was the resort of well-to-do miners and business men; now, with the large dining room sub-divided for other uses it was patronized by the lower classes of diners out.  Large brass letters on the pavement identified the place; but a glance in showed a small room with a bar and three or four ill-favored tables, and saw-dust strewn over the floor.  A tramp leaning against the door-way <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>MOUNT TAMILPAIS.</P>
164.sgm:<P>North and East of San Francisco two isolated peaks are seen.  Diablo and Tamilpais; the first most prominent; but the distance and difficulty in reaching its summit bar it from being a resort.  Mount Tamilpais is easily reached by steamer and rail and from its base a narrow guage road, whose cars are drawn by a specially built engine, twists, squirms and doubles on itself till the summit is reached.  This is 2600 feet above tide water, close by, and was formerly reached by a donkey path and climbing trail.  In 1896 a railroad was built, eight miles long, to reach a point three miles away, and while I have been up the Clear Creek Loop at Denver and Pike's Peak railway, the Mt. Tamilpais road seemed to exceed them both in engineering skill.  Ascent by the aid of steam is far preferable to professional mountain climbing, where the requisites are wind, glaciers, alpen-stocks, ice-picks, guides, "guys" and guy-ropes; besides it is better to be in a position to tell your friends of your excursion events than to be a "damp unpleasant body"--on ice--at the foot of some unlucky cliff.  Accompanied by my friend on July 14 I started for the mountain.  Boarding the Saucileto steamer we sped past the islands of Goat, Angel and Alcatraz, in full view of the Golden Gate, and landed at the terminus of the Mill Valley railroad, which in five miles takes us to the Golden Gate, and landed at the terminus of the Mill Valley railroad, which in five miles takes us to the foot of the mountain.  Here we leave the cars and push with Endeavor vim for the "scenic" railway.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>This rush showed the ill-manners of well mannered people.  The statement seems like a paradox till we remember the backward tendencies of mankind when the brakes are loosened.  Polite society often contains men and women who, out from the public eye, do deeds which shame humanity.  The doings of some "horse company" dinners I have attended, and legislative banquets and New York French Balls, I have not, where turkey-legs are thrown across the table, wine dashed in one anothers' faces and other playful acts committed by bucolic or urban diners show how home respectability unbends abroad.  Thus we, Christian people, forgetting early training and the head lines of our copy books, clerical and lay passengers, one and all, scrambled for the cars as if this would be our last chance to reach the Tamilpais summit.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Our turns came at last and we started on the ascent.  From the bay the mountain looked barren, but, as we entered its recesses, hidden greeness from shrub and tree greeted us.  The canyon slopes and narrow intervales are wooded with trees peculiarly Californian; red-wood, live-oak, manzanita and madrone, as well as laurel, and where there is room small gardens and orchards are seen.  In a nook, near the foot of the canyon, are some livery stables, of profit in ante-railroad times; but now given the go-by except when some sentimentalist, or alarmist at the sharp inward curves, salients and grades of the winding track seek a donkey or saddle horse for the ascent.  Our locomotives were curiosities.  The pistons worked at right angles with the engine, driving a hinge-jointed shaft on which were bevel wheels, "gearing down" to others on the axles.  The hinge-joint was so the driving shaft could accommodate itself to the sharp curves.  Two to four cars are drawn.  We soon leave the canyon and wind in, out and around the abrupt shoulders and depressions of the mountain side.  Some of the radients are as low as fifty feet and nearly all the time ascending; occasional "dips" having to be made.  There is a point <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>There was quite a reversal in our experiences at Pike's Peak and Mount Tamilpais, as far as temperature was concerned, at base and summit.  At the first mountain the start was warm; the finish unpleasantly cold and snow around us; at Tamilipais the base was cool and pleasant; the summit so hot we were as glad to leave it as we were Pike's Peak for its cold.</P>
164.sgm:<P>That the camera man was on top goes without saying.  There were sentimental girls who wanted their pictures taken standing on rocks gazing on the sea, or in other lackadaisical attitudes.  But the heat of the sun and the fog lying like a misty ocean below and around us induced us to forego extras and our stay was short.  We used an ordinary locomotive for the descent.  This had four cylinders and eight driving wheels--the duplication for safety.  The foot of the winding grade was soon reached; passing over twenty bridges en route.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Having time on our return we visited Pioneer Hall, where are collections of mementos of early California.  To this place daily come many of the Forty-niners, who make it their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Around the walls were portraits of prominent Californians and pictures and lithographs of San Francisco in various stages of developement, and around the room, and on tables were various relics of the past.  One was a small safe whose robbery had caused a murder and, after the guilty ones had been swung up by the Vigilantes, the safe had been rescued from the shallow waters of the bay.  Another was a brass cannon, first presented by the Emperor of Russia to his colony north of the Golden Gate; then on the evacuation given to Captain Sutter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>I saw hung on the walls two "Bear Flags;" the colors of California before a part of the Union.  One was flung to the breeze at Sonoma in 1846, and did duty again the past year at the fiftieth anniversary of that event.  I also saw something which in that far off land forcibly struck me.  In the list of troops offered the Governor of Pennsylvania for service in the Mexican war, framed on the side of the museum, were two companies of Bucks County soldiers.  These were the Union Guards, 74 men, Jas. Morrison, Captain; J. G. Hill, 1st Lieutenant, and Jont. J. Morrison, 2d Lieutenant, and the Doyles-town Guards, 77 men, Charles H. Mann, Captain; J. S. Bryan, 1st Lieutenant, and John Pidcock, 2d Lieutenant.  Alone, a stranger in a strange land, these echoes of a local past produced a thrill which can be understood by those who have been similarly affected.</P>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IX.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>At the City of the Angels.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>The engine whistles southward, Ho!<LB>With grip and Guide-book off we go,<LB>Twixt mountains rising on each hand;<LB>By rivers margined wide with sand,<LB>We climb at last the far divide,<LB>By zig-zag curves from side to side,<LB>To see at last the promised land<LB>Its wealth of fruits and flowers expand,<LB>Such scenes if witnessed by the Spies of old<LB>They'd staked their claims and left their "find" untold.</HI>
164.sgm:<P>THE next place to claim my attention was Southern California.  On July 16, accompanied by two friends, I left San Francisco at 5 o'clock, and crossing the ferry--we are always crossing ferries here--were swiftly rolling over the Contra Costa plains where "Scottie" and I plodded so wearily in the long ago, with bundles on our backs, the rain pouring and discouraged from our inability to find work.  The way we hunted for what the regular tramp avoids marked ours the "Endeavor tour of '58;" whether the Christian prefix was allowable or not I will leave by saying that he who crossed the plains in the days of ox-trains deserves well if he came through without breaking the "Commandments ten God gave to men."  Through the hills on our right wound Walnut Creek Canyon, which we had ascended on the following day, passing the night in a barn, after the kind ranchman had given us our supper; thence the next day to Martinez.  The Contra Costa range we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:tramps got through; but it was too much for the Southern Pacific; so they went round it where it shoulders the straits of Carquinez.  Here, at Martinez, I looked across to Benecia, seemingly grown no larger, as it lay scattered over the hills, than in 1858.  The ferry-boat was still running but the kind captain, who refused my last money for ferriage was dead, and I hope when he crossed the mysterious river Charon was as kind to him.  I looked up the shore of Suisun bay where we tramped in the long ago, and thought of the rain, the slippery, <illus entity="a164-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE ENDEAVORERS" OF '58--MT. DIABLO IN THE DISTANCE.</P>
164.sgm:muddy roads and our vain search for work.  Just above was Cordelia, where we left our heavier luggage and went on the next morning in light marching order.  In passing through Martinez I looked in vain for the livery stable where we stayed all night with horses for company, and then quickly passed over the road we slowly walked before, between Pacheco and that town.  As we curved around to the Southeast Mount Diablo came in plain sight and was the chief land mark as long as daylight lasted.  As we ran along the shore of Suisun bay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Daylight found us crossing the junction of the Coast Range with the Sierra Nevada at the Tehachapa Pass, and where the elevation is 4000 feet.  A succession of loops and tunnels, showing great engineering skill took us across.  The story was told us that after the most astute experts had tried to find a way across for weeks a boy of eighteen solved the problem.  As a similar narrative of a similar difficulty and solution was put before us I will not vouch for this.  These things are found in different guide books and you "pays your money and takes your choice."  At the foot of the mountain we struck the Mojave desert, a part of which I had passed over before.  The familiar Yucca Palm arose around us with shaggy head and outstretched arms, in weired outlines, as it had impressed me on my other journey.  Thousands of stunted Century-plants were scattered over the desert, with faded stalks rising from the dying leaves.  An occasional water-station oasis was seen; enlarged where mining camps made trucking profitable, and where there was a chance for irrigation.  Quite a lake appeared in one place, where water had been gathered from a mountain stream for that purpose.</P>
164.sgm:<P>We soon came to another divide, this time where we crossed the Sierra Madre--the Mother Mountain.  Heavy grades, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>How can I compare this place of 100,000 people; a railroad centre, whence steam and electric ways converge from all direction; 175 miles of graveled and asphalt avenues which street cars traverse to a large extent; magnificent stores and private residences in the city's heart, and in the suburbs neat cottages surrounded by tropical plants and flower; watered by artesian wells and mountain streams and lighted by electricity?  No better way than by my description in '58, after speaking of the business portion.</P>
164.sgm:<P>"The streets of old Los Angeles have a singular look.  The houses are built of blocks of sun-dried clay, called adobes; roofed with tiles and sometimes reeds, or tules, from the marshes.  Over the last is spread a coating of pitch from bitumen beds near the town.  In the summer this melts, and running down the white fronts gives them a variegated look.  These ranges of houses are occasionally pierced by gateway, which open to gardens where orange trees and grape vines show their fruit in their seasons.  While the Americans were in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>My style of entrance to the city was also of a contrasting nature with my present mode.  I had walked sixty miles from San Bernardino, and was foot-sore and tired; with hardly the means to get a "tomale," let alone to buy what is now called a square meal.  For all that I was interested in the town from what I knew of it and spent the little time I had looking around, seeing the odd sights of houses and people.  I remember the bare Plaza; then an unsightly place, with an old adobe church, some government buildings and low whitewashed houses around the square.  Now it is a Park, full of palms and flowers.  Arriving just before noon I left for the coast at sun-down along with a comrade of the plains, "Dutch Jo."  I remember well the loneliness of that walk by night to San Pedro; the nearest sea-port.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Now I was to spend a week here and my anticipations were naturally different from those of old.  Besides two congenial home friends were with me, and taking up our lodgings we made ready to see the sights of Los Angeles and surrounding country.  A delightful time we had.  A comparison of a wheel comes in.  The Angelic city the hug; the radiating lines of travel the spokes and we the "fellows;" but there was no tire.  We were as fresh for new scenes in the morning as we were the day before.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Mrs. Fremont spoke of the General's proclamation freeing the slaves of Missouri rebels and its recall by the President, and to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Mrs. Fremont crossed the Plains soon after the completion of the overland railroad, accompanying the General to California.  "From the car windows," said she, "he showed me place after place, once familiar to him; where he had encamped, hunted, explored and encountered the wily savage in fight or pow-wow.  At that time real "Blanket Indians" could be seen and plenty of buffalo also.  He often dwelt on his historic march down the California coast to meet the Mexicans under General Pico, made during the rainy season and when the summer-dry mountain streams were torrents.  His route was up the San Joaquin valley, across the mountains to Santa Cruz, down the coast and over the range back of Santa Barbara.  Coming down these steeps he lost one hundred mules and oxen.  The General's part in the acquisition of California will never be fully recognized."</P>
164.sgm:<P>Through all Mrs. Fremont's conversation was shown the most extreme devotion to her husband, which followed him through good and adverse fortune, and there was certainly a good portion of the last; particularly after he became prominent in politics and war.  She showed me the portraits and pictures around the walls of the rooms, and many objects of interest besides.  The first were of the General when a young man; when a candidate for President, and in the gray of his declining years; of Mrs. Fremont at different ages, and of her two sons; one a lieutenant in the navy; the other an army captain.  There was an oil painting of Colonel Benton.  This was rescued from a Washington fire, and a rent in the canvas, caused by being thrown from a window, had been left unmended.  There was a drawing of a buffalo hunt by Darley, from an original by Fremont, and many fine engravings.  Although an entire <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>When Dana revisited California in 1859, which was the year I left it, he called on the Fremonts then living at Mariposa.  He speaks of Mrs. Fremont as "the heroine of either fortune; the Salons of Paris, or wilds of California."  They were then in poor circumstances, and content to live in accordance therewith.</P>
164.sgm:<P>I have spoken much of this visit, mainly because the principal figure was the widow of a man who during the developing time of my life was my hero.  I roamed the plains and mountains of the wild-west with him on his exploring expeditions, hunted with him for deer, buffalo and Indians; marched with him at the head of his California Battalion; suffered with him through heat and cold and partook with him of mule-steak.  In 1856 I shouted for him, when I was too young to vote, and, when he was an officer in the coming war of the Rebellion, hoped to see him the big general of them all; but it was not to be.  He died a disappointed man.</P>
164.sgm:<P>A visit to the renovated church on the Plaza was of much interest.  Established in 1781; renewed and finished by a Yankee sailor in 1822; modernized in 1861, it is a neat and rather picturesque building; but not up to the standar of the Mission Churches.  On the middle tablet, over the door-way, is an inscription in Spanish; "The Faithful of the Parish of the Queen of Angels;" on another "God save thee, Mary, Queen of Grace;" on a third, "Holy Mary, Mother of God, Forgive us our Sins!"  While another has on it the text beginning, "The Lord so loved the world, &amp;c."  These are characteristic sentences about the old churches of California.  In an ante-room of the Priest's house I was shown some odd paintings, along with a worm-eaten altar-bench from the old Mission days.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>I did not see Abraham in the guise of a Spanish soldier, with a flint-lock musket, taking aim at Isaac; while a full-cheeked angel was blowing the priming from the pan; as another traveler had seen, but I saw some pictures almost as unique.  The figures, men and women, were garbed in the dresses prevailing around the Missions in 1800; even the Saviour, who was dressed as a Spanish high official; as would be natural with the simple-minded Indian artists, who, in a state of semislavery, were made to look upon the leading white men as superior beings.  For the same reasons the Apostles, disciples and other followers were clad in accordance with the grades of people around them; the lower characters, of course, in the painter's humility, being shown as Indians, the others as monks and soldiers.  The sizes were disproportioned and the perspective faulty; but for all that they were wonderful exhibitions of the skill of the Coast Indians; who, when found, were considered lowest in the scale of original Americans, and I could look on these quaint representations without a feeling of ridicule or irreverence.  While an assistant priest was showing me the relics the sexton came in to say a marriage ceremony was awaiting consummation.  The good Father's face brightened up, for what was in prospect had much more in it than showing uncouth Indian paintings to a Gringo of another faith and where monetary reward was doubtful, and throwing on his sacred robes hastened to the adjoining chapel, while I went out and, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>I would like to say that the bride and groom were in the morning of life; but I can't; they were "getting along" towards middle age, in fact; but there may have been some romance about it for all.  It might have been a case of "warming over the old broth;" or a separation by cruel parents.  There might have come long, patient waiting; the right ones deceased, after uncongenial marriages; the old lovers with "loose feet" again; a re-combination, and, as the old fairy tales ended, a "living together happily forever afterwards."  At least it is to be hoped so, for in this land of easy divorces their is no telling.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The quaint church with its bright pictures, and paper flowers, shown in "dim religious light;" the smiling bridal party, the palms and tropical vegetation on the Plaza in front; the clanging, buzzing trollies as they whirled around the corner made scenes and sounds to remember.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The odd names on signs in Los Angeles I noticed; a sash and blind factory was a "Door Factory;" a wine press a "Winery;" where bicycles were repaired a "Cyclery."  I saw a drug store with five signs to suit the eyes of English, Spanish, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OUR LADY OF ANGELS.</P>
164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SCENE OF THE WEDDING.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>An imposing, solid building on Broadway is the City Hall; not fanciful outside, but with a beautiful inside finish.  Here are the city offices, including the Council Chambers and a free library.  I passed my evening leisure hours here.  There was spent here last year $22,000, and 566,000 volumes were taken out.  On the book shelves is my "California Tramp," showing that the committee on selection know a good thing when they see it.  There are many visitors here in the evenings; some looking like veritable book worms.  No talking is allowed and it gives one a gruesome feeling to see these silent people around their tables or noiselessly hunting for books.  A reading room, where I was glad to find the Philadelphia <HI REND="italics">Ledger</HI>
164.sgm:<P>On one floor is a collection of the products of Southern California--I think from the Chicago exhibit--arranged in attractive ways.  Fruits of all kinds, canned and dried, piled up in pyramids, towers, minarets and, in one instance, in likeness of a bottle, twenty feet high.  Wine and olives, oranges and lemons, almonds and walnuts, figs, peaches and apricots, plums and grapes, apples and pears met the eye; while beans, grains of all kinds and vegetables in every variety were shown.  Even perishable fruit is kept by replacement, on decay.  A three-hundred pound pumpkin startled me.  There was a gentleman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The night scenes in the bright, arc-lighted streets of Los Angeles were ever entertaining, as my traveling friends will testify to.  One of these had as central figures the Salvation Army which nightly assembled near our lodging place.  There was the usual number of Captains and Lieutenants, with the small percentage, as in real army life, of privates.  There were men and women; black and white; boys and girls; several with horns and drums.  The speakers made impassioned appeals to the curb-stone audience; sang and prayed.  Their singing in the lively, rattling strains peculiar to these people, was fine.  The faces of some of the women, as they were turned upward, singing or silent, had a beautiful expression; I might say angelic, that indescribably impressed us.  At last, passing around their cymbals for a collection, they gathered up their horns and drums, and, asking us to follow them to their hall, noisely marched away.</P>
164.sgm:<P>I must not forget the Tomale carts; an "institution" of Los Angeles.  They at one time numbered fifty; but, alas! they are going the way of other old-time features that belonged to the picturesque past; the wood-laden burros, the Mexican horsemen, the ox-teams, the cowled monks and the "lavenderas" or washer-women who laundered in the river.  There are but thirty Tomale carts now.  And what is a Tomale?  First you must pronounce it Tomally.  It is meat and vegetables ground together, placed in corn husks, seasoned to the verge of endurance and boiled as wanted.  There are factories where they are manufactured, as sausage.  There are two kinds made; from meat and what is supposed to be chicken.  Doubting Thomases <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>A visit to "Spanish-town," as the section around and south of the Plaza is called, is of much interest.  The greater part of the old adobes are standing; but their one time Mexican tenants are mainly died away, and Chinamen, or people of like low caste have replaced them.  Some of the old buildings are in fair condition; but many are going to ruin.  The Pico House, in General Pico's time a pretentious mansion, from being of two-stories, is the most imposing of the lot, and even this is a victim of Chinese invasion.  The greater part of these slant-eyed fellows are truckers, renting patches of land in the suburbs.  Through their economical, patient, careful ways they have driven the Americans from vegetable raising in California.  They are adapted to the irrigating necessities of the southern end of the state and by the use of hand pumps, artesian wells, or corporation water are making arid plains and hillsides teem with edible growth.  They do not, however, put their marketing in attractive shape, but as it is sold at low prices that does not seem an objection.  At first they abused their horses, but a few fines from the S.P.C.A. taught these frugal-minded heathens a lesson.  As the Celestials drive in to town in the evenings with their loads of truck on rickety wagons, drawn by rough horses in patched up harness, they form a curious picture.  As soon as night comes on they begin their low pleasures, and shuffle and skurry along to gambling house, opium joint and theatre.  The last we did not enter, but stood at the door awhile listening to the screaming voices of the actors, the clangor of drums and gongs, and occasional strains of barbaric music from brass and reed instruments.  They sounded like wails from lost souls.  We were curious to go inside but did not think the dirty coolies crowding up the stairs suitable company and passed on.  There is a Joss house here, but not much favored; showing that John is getting "allee samee Melican man."</P>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>X.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>Around Southern California.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Where Mission bells from tree and tower,<LB>Vibrant with welcome, once rang out,<LB>And hosts, responsive to their power,<LB>Gathered the cowled monks about;<LB>Where myriad-herds the pastures grazed<LB>And the spiked chapparal filled the plain<LB>I saw such followings as amazed--<LB>Orchards out-spread and towns upraised--<LB>Then musing took the homeward train.</HI>
164.sgm:<P>WE had now pretty well looked around our town, whose name I will remark is pronounced Loce-ang-he-les, and were ready for radiation.  Our first point was Pasadena, twelve miles east.  It was First-day morning, "Our Lady of Angels" had sent her call to the faithful long since from her tower, and the invocation to a second service was chiming, as with a responsive trolly-clang we rolled through Spanish-town to our destination.  Pasadena has 10,000 people, many of whom are wealthy and owners of fine residences.  We rode around the town and through the grounds of Professor Lowe and a Mr. Rosenbaum, each noted for its attractions.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Where Pasadena is was a sheep range when I was here before.  And twenty years ago the land was bought for five dollars an acre; now the assessed value of the town is $10,000,000.  Water for irrigation comes from the mountains into which a tunnel is bored and a copious spring reached.</P>
164.sgm:<P>It being now meeting time we attended what is called a Friends Church, whose congregation is split off from the old fashioned Friends whom they think too conservative in reference to singing, music and a paid ministry.  At Pasadena is the second largest meeting of the new order, the strongest being at Whittier.  There are two meetings in the town, some times called for distinguishment--the Wilbur and the Gurney--the former the Conservative.  The church is well named as it has a bell and tower.  It was new, in a nice part of the town, electric lighted, and arranged for Sabbath schools.  The audience room had been profusely decorated for a "special Christian Endeavor service," several members of this body (Christian Endeavor) who belonged to the Gurney branch of Eastern Friends being present on their way home from the meeting at San Francisco.  In front of the pulpit was a basket of oranges, flanked by purple flowers, to typify the C. E. colors.  At each end of the altar were flowers of the same hues, and the organ bloomed with them.  On each side of the pulpit were imitations of candles, tipped with electric globes, and around these vines were twined.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The Sabbath school had just begun.  A tall, venerable man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Among the audience was a lady of ninety, who had moved to Pasadena with her children.  With her serene face and plain attire she seemed to sit there as one from the past, rebuking the innovations coming over her beloved Society.  Through the music, song, sermon, and, I may add, collection, I could see this aged landmark of her sect, and the sight was refreshing, and as soon as the sermon was over I passed those high in the church to take this Friend by the hand, and tell her how glad the sight of her plain bonnet made me, and how good to the ear were her "thee" and "First-day," in contrast to the ignoring of the "plain language" during service and after.</P>
164.sgm:<P>There was not a word in the sermon, and as I said, it was an eloquent one, to show that the speaker had ever heard of George Fox, except his saying at one point that we should no more be bound by him than the members of other societies should be bound by their founders; new issues had come up, and we should meet them with modern weapons.  The "plain language" he entirely ignored in the sermon.  I thought that it would have been more in place for these Friends to have joined some other society or given themselves another name, than to worship under their present title.</P>
164.sgm:<P>There is a yearly meeting of these Friends of California composed of the following subordinates, taking precedence as follows: Whittier, Pasadena, Altadino, Long Beach, Los Angeles, and Waldimere; the latter two weak, the last declining.  The first two are strong, and together number nine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>From Pasadena we went to San Gabriel.  The route was over a beautiful country covered with orchards of varied California fruitage heretofore enumerated, while lines of alternating palms, magnolia, eucalyptus and pepper trees flanked the road.  The last is as tough as gum and its sight brought to memory a huge maul of that wood with which I sent many a pointed red-wood post home under direction and guidance of my Italian task-master in days of old.  The eucalyptus, or bluegum, shows a thin bark which develops to one as rough as that of shellbark hickory; when it begins to drop off.  It grows so fast it is planted for firewood.  In good soil it will attain a diameter of eighteen inches in ten years.</P>
164.sgm:<P>We passed through a fine orchard-ranch, of various fruits, of seven hundred acres on which were elegant buildings and fine drives.  The owner was dead and past worrying over a $125,000 mortgage placed there in "boom-times."  That much talked of and sadly thought of period was about 1885, and the "booms," the way they reacted, became real boomerangs.  Hundreds of people were ruined in Southern California, and the effects are not yet gone.  The speculation in land there was a sort of "South Sea Bubble," where clergymen, as well as gamblers, went in the financial whirl and, shearing, came out shorn.  A minister who arrived in Los Angeles in the height of the craze told me that after being persecuted by laymen to invest in real estate he turned to a clerical brother for sympathy, but the first words he said were in reference to an orange grove he wanted to put on the "gringo" dominie!</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Let me here say the typical Southern Californian is sensitive to the opinions and criticisms of the East; and, intensely loyal as he is, he smarts under its assumed patronizing ways.  While he should be secure in the known advantages held by his state, he puts a climatic chip on his shoulder, and, in an unknightly way dares us, so handicapped by the disadvantages of our changing climate, to knock it off!  In the implication of Eastern envy and jealousy the loyalist of "Our Italy" overdoes his part.  We do not under-rate you, Oh, dwellers in the Land of Sunshine!  And we are speaking now, per force of Southern California; for if my memory serves me there is a north to your state where there is more or less fog; though I think you have some yourselves.  But we who have been there remember your golden days; your refreshing sunset breezes; your agricultural wealth; your scenery by shore, plain and mountain, and your Mission ruins, so pathetic in their calls to their past grandeur and their religious conquests; so appealing to the lovers of the romantic and the picturesque, as well as to the student of history.  We prove our love and admiration for your land by annual pilgrimages thence of tourists in tens of thousands.  But don't ask us to sacrifice the love of "our own, our native land," in ecstacies over the questionable perfection of yours!  The uncalled for feelings towards us have developed a literature in California, peculiar in its intensity of expression in high strung sarcasm, put in the most aptly chosen words and sentences; yet the writers show a frugal mindedness in the climax, denoting the dependence of their Land of Climate on the Plutocratic Easterner; and in pitiful sycophancy call attention to the wise men of the East who so appreciate their valleys and hills as to settle among them and make them what they are.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The following is an example of the feeling alluded to; taken from a prominent magazine of Southern California:</P>
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164.sgm:<P>THEIR GRASS.</P>
164.sgm:<P>BY CHARLOTTE PERKINS STETSON.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>They say we have no grass!<LB>To hear them talk<LB>You'd think that grass could walk,<LB>And was their bosom friend--no day to pass<LB>Between them and their grass!<LB>No grass! they say, who live<LB>Where hot bricks give<LB>The hot stones all their heat and back again--<LB>A baking hell for men.<LB>"Oh but," they haste to say, "we have our parks"--<LB>Where fat policemen check the children's larks,<LB>And sign to sign repeats as in a glass<LB>"Keep off the grass!"<LB>"We have our city parks and grass, you see--"<LB>Well--so have we!<LB>But 'tis the country that they sing of most.  "Alas!"<LB>They sing, "for our wide acres of soft grass!<LB>To please us living and to hide us dead!--"<LB>You'd think Walt Whitman's first was all they read!<LB>You'd think they all went out upon the quiet<LB>Nebuchadnezzar to outdo in diet!<LB>You'd think they found no other green thing fair--<LB>Even its seed an honor in their hair!<LB>You'd think they had this bliss the whole year 'round--<LB>Evergreen grass!--and we, plowed ground!<LB>But come now!  How does earth's pet plumage grow<LB>Under your snow?<LB>Is your beloved grass as softly nice<LB>When packed in ice?<LB>For six long months you live beneath a blight--<LB>No grass in sight.<LB>You bear up bravely.  And not only that,<LB>But leave your grass and travel.  And thereat<LB>We marvel deeply, with slow Western mind,<LB>Wondering within us what these people find<LB>Among our common oranges and palms<LB>To tear them from the well-remembered charms<LB>Of their dear vegetable.  But still they come,<LB>Frost-bitten invalids, to our bright home,<LB>And chide our grasslessness, until we say--<LB>But if you hate it so--why come? why stay?<LB>Just go away!<LB>Go to--your grass!</HI>
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164.sgm:</PAGEINFO><P>This is good poetry but it is reminiscent of sour grapes.  Grass, as we know it, does not take kindly to the "Land of Sunshine," whose hay is the unripe stalks of wheat, oats and barley.</P>
164.sgm:<P>But to return to our hack and the scenic descriptions its movements develop.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Through clouds of dust we at last reached the Mission of San Gabriel.  This is a large building with buttressed walls and built of burned bricks; a rarity in the early days of California.  The Mission was founded in 1771, under the name of San Gabriel Arcangel, by two priests and twenty soldiers sent out by Portala, the military head of the province.  As the connecting ceremonies progressed warlike Indians came on the scene prepared for their undoing; but when the good Padres showed them a picture of the Madonna held aloft they fell on their knees and made offerings of beads to the Virgin.  Then the cross was raised, the mass celebrated.  There were few conversions at first, but the Mission at last prospered; both in the salvage of heathen souls and in worldly matters.  At one time there were 30,000 cattle thereunto belonging, besides the proportion of horses, mules, sheep and oxen; and in 1835, when the Mission was on its decline, there were 600 Indian converts.  Many of these were skilled in carving and tracing in wood, horn and bone, taught them by the fathers; in fact some of the specimens, yet unstolen by collectors of rarities show wonderful handiwork.  It is incredible how conscienceless some of these relic-hunters are; easing their minds sometimes by giving a pittance to the easy-going monk or sexton in charge.  One man boasted to me about a baptismal font of Indian workmanship, and a marvel of skill, which he got for nothing, and which now ornaments his home.  Beautifully stamped saddle-skirts, carved wooden stirrups and decorated pottery, long kept as evidences of the capability of the converted Indian, were similarly taken, until little is left.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>The accounts of the dismantling of San Gabriel, and the efforts of the Padres to keep the beholdings, whereby they might have control of the converts they had so long kept from barbarism are interesting studies, and readers of Ramona can understand why the author was so full of the subject of Indian misuse.  When the end came the broad pasture lands were siezed by Mexican officials, and orders given for the sequestration of the stock.  The cattle gone the most of the Indians left for the mountains or died for lack of care, for they were much as grown up children.  The water-ways being neglected the orchards and vineyards went to ruin, and the outlying Mission buildings crumbled to the ground, until nothing is left intact but the church and adjoining cloisters, where lives the Padre, Joaquin Bote.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Alighting at the main church entrance we hunted up this gentleman, and such he was; even though a Spaniard.  He told us in his accented English this parish was very poor; only the dark people we saw around the adobes and an occasional well-to-do from a distance composing it.  At Mass, when they should collect the most, only two or three dollars were raised, and then it cost so much to keep the large building in repair.  Did the gentleman see that handsome, red-wood ceiling?  It cost much for a parish so poor.  And these pictures around the chapel walls?</P>
164.sgm:<P>They had grown dim.  But money we raised and touched them up; restored them, and now they are as fresh and bright as in the old Mission times of happy memory.  Visitors come sometimes, but not much give they.  Just then came a carriage load of tourists and getting out they prepared to follow us around; being like John Gilpin's wife, frugal-minded.  But Padre Joaquin said to them, "Some money we would expect for the church; being poor;" and these tourists got as far as they dared, took a good peep, and turning about said they believed they had seen enough, and the Padre said they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:right.  He was pleasant, but mildly sarcastic.  Then he took us paying heretics around and showed us up a steep stone stairway to the roof where was the belfry, with three bells swinging therein which he pointed to in a loving way.  Two of them were from Old Spain; the other from Boston-way, and I warrant came from some coasting "hide drogher" of three-fourths of a century back, and was traded for hides and tallow.<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
164.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">A year later, with the war between the Americans and Spaniards exciting the world, these representative bells would have seemed still more discordant, and as for Father Joaquin himself, he would have got scanter courtesy from our intense tourists.</NOTE>
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164.sgm:<P>As for the village?  Well!  One would think, if he did not hear the scream of the locomotive and the whir and clang of trollies, he was in the pueblo of a century back.  Here were the low adobes and their porticos underneath which the dusky villagers were lounging the Sabbath afternoon away.  It was a veritable nook in the land of "Poco Tiempo" and "Quien Sabe."  "In a little while" and "who knows?" those careless Mexican replies, were written on the faces of these Pueblans, and reflected on the listless dogs and tired looking fowls.  Around were drooping palms and thorny cacti, and behind the low dwellings were gardens in which were growing the corn, beans and peppers for making the "frijoles," "tomales" and "chile-con-carne;" so loved by the swarthy natives.  In the near suburbs were the ruined remnants of once pretentious buildings, while rising over all was the Mission Church with its trio of bells ready for the coming Angelus.  Rudely bound with thongs of leather to their rocking beams, with the rust of generations upon them, and full of suggestions of a romantic past, they seemed in their arched sockets in mute remonstrance at the innovations which had so pitilessly changed the face of the pastoral leagues over which they pealed a century ago.</P>
164.sgm:<P>In a few minutes our driver had us in another world; a busy world which took us from romance to reality; and that of a paying sort.  From San Gabriel station were last year shipped 25,000 boxes of oranges and 15,000 of lemons; 3000 barrels of wine and brandy, and large quantities of stone-fruit, hay and grain.</P>
164.sgm:<P>And now from a romantic old Mission to an Ostrich farm; a historic church to a modern hen-coop; Padre Joaquin to a chicken-rancher!</P>
164.sgm:<P>It was at the South Pasadena Ostrich farm we halted.  Here were eighty birds, the increase of a few originals brought from Africa twelve years ago.  They ranged from little chickens to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We saw the nests.  In humility the ostrich does not make the home for her eggs in the tree-top.  She is no singer nor soarer as the lark, but like that bird builds, or rather excavates, her nest in the ground.  A few vigorous kicks and the "home without hands" is made, and in time three eggs are found therein.  She does not sit on them; she has too much fore-arm and gambril-joint for that.  Occasionally she and the other ostrich saunter around, giving perfunctory side-glances at the surroundings of the future yielders of bonnet adornments and feather-boas, and then go for something to eat.  The Ostrich is the Oliver Twist of birds and the horse leech as well.  His cry is More! More!  He loves beets.  When he swallows a large rutabaga it passes downward slowly; looking like a moving "Adam's apple."  The largest bird could carry a man; a small man.  They are worth $300 when five years old and $5 a year additional afterwards.</P>
164.sgm:<P>They lay 28 eggs a year and it takes the sun 42 days to hatch a setting.  An ostrich egg will boil in one hour and a half.  Though said to be good eating few are boiled.  Cost too much!  But if cooked, to apostrophize, what omelets; what Easter-feeds; what devils!  It would take slices of elephant hams to go with the fries!  I would rather talk about their feathers.  One bird will grow $30 a year.  Each feather is worth $2.50 to $3.00; a feather boa $30.  From what our informant said the business is poor, and only the 25-cent curiosity of the tourist keeps the wolf from the hennery door.  The world's distributing point for feathers is London, where $7,000,000 worth is sold annually; nearly all from the Cape of Good Hope.  The keeper hoped the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:coming tariff would put their business on its legs again; then if these could be typified by the knobby props of these huge birds!  Alfalfa and beets are their food.  A store is at the entrance gate where men visitors are expected to buy feathers, singly or elongated to boas to give to or take home to their wives; but with their many outgoes they seemed too poor.  How uneasy these sons of Adam grew as those who had wives or other interested ladies with them saw the interest of these <illus entity="a164-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HOW WE WENT TO SAN PEDRO IN '58--"DUTCH JO" AND I.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The next morning to San Pedro.  Shall I compare my exit with that of long ago, when "Dutch Jo" and I at sunset left Los Angeles by the scattered adobe suburbs, and under our packs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>After the suburbs were passed we saw field after field of truck farmed by Chinamen who pay $10 to $30 per acre rent, water included.  My informant told me one hundred bushels of corn could be raised to the acre.  To do this irrigation is required.  Near the coast, where there is plenty of fog, forty bushels is grown, unaided.  We passed the Domingues Ranch, which, with its scattered buildings, looked like an old-time rancheria.  It had not been parceled out and much stock roamed over its broad leagues.  As we sped along I thought much of the night wayfarers of long ago who would have been so glad to steal a ride on a conveyance like ours.  On the train we made acquaintance with a gentleman who yielded us much information, a Mr. Baker, who lived at Long Beach and who kindly offered to take us around on our arrival at the coast.  Soon the sea came in view, ridged with gentle undulations; the rollers spraying the beach, and I naturally thought of my first sight of the Pacific Ocean.  I wrote some lines on this event then, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:which I modestly compared myself to Balboa; Keats in his oft quoted lines makes it Cortez:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Like to stout Cortez, when with eagle eye<LB>He stared at the Pacific, and all his men<LB>Looked at each other with a mild surmise,<LB>Silent upon a peak of Darien."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>My poem died--Keats lived; but then I lived and Keats died; so Time, that great leveler, has made things even.  Otherwise there was no similarity between us travelers; the one with his bold free-booters around him; the other with no one to surmise with him but "Dutch Jo," the one time singer of "Kitty Clyde" and kindred ditties.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Long Beach is the finest bathing place on the coast, but on account of the cool air not to compare with similar resorts East.  This seems strange considering the tropical vegetation and hot mid-days of Southern California; but on the shore it is cool day and night at this point.  The rising of the heated air from the vast desert areas east of the Sierra Nevadas causes a vaccum which is supplied by the sea-air, and while this is warmed on its way its freshness is felt along shore to a delightful extent.  The air was cool, even at noon; while the water was cold.  The beach is fine and so hard as to make a driveway undented by wheel or hoof.  A 1600 foot wharf, where immense quantities of fish are caught runs out to meet deep-sea vessels.  The town runs two miles along shore and has one thousand people.  Here annually the Chatauqua Society of California meets.  The session was just beginning on our arrival.  Long Beach had been a "dry" town, but the saloon element was now on top sufficiently to order a new election to change the charter.  It has Electric Lights and Water Works.  Near here and attempt is being made to harness the Ocean with a system of floats which, rising and falling with the tide, work pumps which force fresh water in a reservoir.  This acts on turbine wheels whose power is capable of running the cars at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Our next point was San Pedro, five miles up the coast.  The new town of that name, a busy place and a great lumber mart I passed through, leaving my friends, who went back to Los Angeles.  I wanted to see the old port where the Pilgrim lay, where Dana and his mates, the "hide-tossers," loaded and unloaded her, on her trips up and down the coast; and also where I embarked in the "Senator" for San Francisco; so I passed by what would have interested the many for this old Los Angeles sea-port, a mile away.  While much was unrecognizable around here on account of improvements made since my first visit, this place was hard to find from the buildings I once knew being leveled to the ground.  I could find no cotemporaneous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>I was at last directed to "Craw-fish George," as one who might sympathize with me in what the prosaic people seem to think a singular search.  Their looks said "Who is this man, old enough to know better, coming enquiring about these ruined wharves and crumbled adobes?  Why don't he ask about <HI REND="italics">New</HI>
164.sgm: San Pedro and the immense Breakwater, to cost millions of dollars and make this bay rival San Francisco, and San Diego green with envy?"  I found George, of the surname Craw-fish, at last.  He was living in a fisher's hut under the bluff which looks on Dead Man's Island, at the foot of the old wharf road and near the remains of the old landing place.  Here things looked natural enough except that the wharf-house was gone.  Craw-fish George was a character.  He lived a sort of a hermit-crab life in a hut, with some signs of attempt to improve the surroundings, in which drift wood and whale-bones were used; but with evidences of his calling all around him.  His name was not acquired from any backing out of undertakings or recantations of hastily uttered words, sometimes required in newly settled countries.  George was a widower and quite confidential.  He had supplemented the deceased Mrs. Craw-fish with alternating house-keepers, whose wage demands increased until $10 per month was reached, when he drew the line; which being in his line came easy, and he has since lived a Robinson <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>I took a lingering look at the beach whereon we shivered in waiting for the steamer in the years long gone.  Before me lay "Dead Man's Island," with its tragic history, as bare and lonely as of old, and with signs of two other graves added to the original one; perhaps through ante-mortem sentiment.  With Craw-fish George I then climbed the bluff to see what was left of the old adobes; then, with the wharf house, all that made San Pedro.  Some treasure-seekers had torn down one building <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"DEAD MAN'S ISLAND"--SAN PEDRO IN 1858.</P>
164.sgm:<P>I give a picture of Dead Man's Island, or Terminal Island, as the unsentimental now call it, and San Pedro as I saw them in 1858.  The steamer is the "Senator" and the then rude manner of handling freight is shown.  Beyond is the wharf, bluff and steep way leading to the plain above.  The road is effaced now, and those who come down the bank do so at the risk of a slide to the bottom.  The Craw-fish home is at its foot, and its loneliness can be imagined.  It is no wonder George's housekeepers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The island is now connected with the mainland by a mole, so the new town has a good harbor.  The "Senator" in its monthly visits had to lay a mile from shore and freight was transported on a lighter, and at the coming of storms vessels put to sea.  Now there is good wharfage a mile from the old landing.  The government is about expending $3,000,000, on top of the $1,000,000 already spent, to make the harbor complete.  At this San Diego is wroth; as that port expected the favor.  From the fishing grounds of San Pedro 3000 tons of fish were shipped last year; and the lumber landed at the new port was 80,000,000 feet; a change from the old times when the coming of a hide and tallow trading ship up the coast was an event and the Bay quiet until such period.  Large lumber vessels and freight and passenger steamers now replace these, and railroads do their part to make the change.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Back to Los Angeles, its fine residences and business places, with their bright streets; its quaint Spanish quarter and dingy thoroughfares, its street scenes, Salvation Army services, and now--it being night-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Mingling with the clang of trollies<LB>Comes the cry of "Hot Tomales!"<LB>Mexican or Texas kind--<LB>Stomach should be copper-lined--<LB>"Meat or chicken?" (with suggestions)<LB>"<HI REND="italics">Real</HI>
164.sgm: chicken?" ask no questions<LB>For (the vendor's) conscience sake,<LB>And on faith your supper make,<LB>"Hot Tomales!  Hot Tomales!"<LB>In hot seasoned, verbal vollies,<LB>"Come and try our chile-con-carne!"<LB>Oh, so peppery and burny!<LB>Why the Dons pronounce it "chilley"<LB>Seems contrariness run silly,<LB>Seems like sampling one's hereafter--<LB>This is not a thought for laughter--</HI>
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164.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">"Hamburger and Weiner-wurst<LB>Try 'em and see which is worst!"</HI>
164.sgm:<P>On the morrow we were ready to run down another trail.  This time it was towards San Bernardino.  It was here I halted after my journey over the deserts from Salt Lake.  On my second visit I tried to find some landmarks in scenery and humanity but with poor success.  I saw some who were living there then, and they were mainly kind and sociable, but the Mormon with whom I came from Utah had been dead two years and gone the way of the Saints.  Five weeks of rough travel in his company made me think well of him and I was disappointed we could not talk over old times together.  But I looked up two of his sons; though they were no good.  I found them lounging around a grocery, averse to talk and shame-faced that I drew them into prominence among their loutish cronies, by my questions.</P>
164.sgm:<P>San Bernardino had a "boom" in 1886 but a reaction came from which it never recovered.  It has electric lights, street-cars and water-works, the results of the excitement of eleven years ago, but of the cars, the one-horse style seemed prominent and the motors quite ribby.  Passengers were scarce.  I was the only one from the depot, but the driver, and the horse needed driving, said he sometimes had twenty fares.  Around the depot there were empty stores; some with their doors and windows wantonly broken in.  In fact there was a good deal to sadden one about San Bernardino.  There was much complaint of hard-times.  Knowledge that I was from Philadelphia caused a luckless shipper of dried apricots to that city to somewhat identify me with his losses.  He had only realized two cents a pound, which fact caused a bitter feeling that I found it inexpedient to try to sweeten.  What ailed this town I don't know, but it strongly contrasted with neighboring towns, and had reminders of its antecedent of 1858.</P>
164.sgm:<P>From San Bernardino we went to Riverside, in Riverside <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:County: why such misnomers I don't know.  There is no river, unless a ribbon of sand can be so termed, in the whole county.  The town was a thriving one; so contrasting with the last.  From here extends Magnolia Avenue, a wonderful highway.  It was lined with alternating Palms, Magnolias and Pepper-trees watered by streams running in open cemented ways; while back of these were continuous groves of oranges whose fruitage on tree or ground we were welcome to.  One thousand acres of those were owned by one man.  Orchards, with trees six years old, sold at $700 per acre, with water rights.  Orange land is worth $200 to $300, and with water $150 per acre more.  Irrigation costs from $2 to $12 per acre; the cost varying with the difficulty of getting water.  This sometimes comes from rivers and expensively tunneled mountains; at others from artesian wells.  It is carried through and around hills, and over deep ravines by long flumes.  To save wastage the ditches are cemented.  From these wooden sluice-ways open to the orchards and have gates to regulate the flow.  Every day a waterman, called a "Zaniero," pronounced <HI REND="italics">Zankairo</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Our charioteer sometimes left the traveled road and cut across <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Other fruits are grown around Riverside.  Prunes, olives and English walnuts are much cultivated, and for the last two years lemons have been successful.  Different sections are specially adapted for special vegetation.  In Orange County is a soil famous for its celery.  It is so spongy that the horses who work it are shod with broad, wooden shoes to keep them from being swamped in the soil.  The growth of celery from this tract is phenominal.  Near Riverside is a plantation of 6000 acres, owned by an English company, on which they are growing Caniagre, or Tan Plant, which they pretend will take the place of oak-bark for tanning leather and do its work more quickly.  Wise men say it bears the same relation to the oak or hemlock that the "Wine Plant," of unhappy memory, did to the grape.  This valley is full of enthusiasts, often failing; ever hopeful.  The production of fruit and vegetables is enormous; for drouth and excessive rains are never feared; but the trouble is to find a market.  There are no near-by cities, like Philadelphia, New York and Baltimore to take the surplus, so at great expense they rush their products long distances to find sale; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The road back from San Bernardino was the same I traveled in 1858.  Shall I draw those odious comparisons again?  I cannot help doing so!  Now rushing up the valley in crowded steam-cars; then I was on a solitary "march to the sea," near ninety miles away.  Where now are tract after tract of orchard and vineyard, town after town and cities of ten thousand people, then stretched sixty miles of chapparal and pasture-lands, relieved by the small towns of San Bernardino, San Gabriel and El Monte, and a few ranches.  Here unbounded hospitality was once granted strangers, but its abuse by Americans had soured the Mexican ranch owners, and they got scant courtesy.  Till the "gringo" came the valley was a scene of pastoral content, and the ox-cart of wood and leather, the wooden plow and brush harrow, the tomales, tortillas and chile-con-carne were all that high and low cared for in implements and diet.  All were natural horsemen and their skill and accoutrements were marvels!</P>
164.sgm:<P>In all my sixty-mile walk to Los Angeles I did not meet a vehicle of any sort, and this was a main highway.  A few horsemen or two were all I saw of human kind except the wild vaqueros galloping around and among the herds.  The hundreds of cattle and horses pasturing the plain are well remembered.  In day time, even, the cattle were dangerous to meet.  But at night!  I have reason to recall a rush of these across my path through the darkness as I passed over this same ground on my former journey.  The landmarks were few; ranch buildings from twelve to twenty miles apart, an occasional live-oak and then fringes of stunted timber along the dry arroyas, or water-course.  Only the high Sierra flanking the valley reminded me of my former visit.  Cultivated land, orchards, fine ranch buildings, towns; who would have thought this the same country?  A typical town was Ontario, near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The Cajon Pass.  Mt. San Bernardino.  MARCHING TO THE SEA.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>On the 21st we went to Santa Monica.  This is a sea-side resort; but on account of the undertow, cold water and stony beach is not all those interested painted it.  There is a large Soldiers' Home a mile back and, while my friends tried the disappointing sea-bath, I sat with a group of veterans listening to old-time fighting over of battles.  There is a pathos about these left-overs of the wars, that struck me as never before.  Although well clad and fed, and housed in "palatial style," an almshouse is suggested as they listlessly saunter around the Home Park.  Many of these veterans have drinking habits and when pension-day comes they go for the saloons of Santa Monica and scandalize the well behaved until the citizens look on the whole with contempt and seem to forget that these men once stood between them and national ruin.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Alas, the blue and brass! once the marks of proud comradeship and tokens for outside envy and admiration here seemed a badge of dependence and disfavor.  Some of these almoners were content with their lot; but many complained of their food, the exactions of thier petty officers, in enforcing military discipline and other matters; in fact querilous old age seems coming on these brave men of yore.  I could not help but think, as I looked on this group, a thought intensified when I saw the many hundreds--there were 3000 at the Home--grouped or wandering about when we stopped on our return, that the loss by bullets and sickness during the war was by no means all to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>We saw a curiosity on the beach at Santa Monica in the likeness of two bathing machines.  Readers of Dickens have known them as belongings of English watering places; but they seemed as incongruous here as a Chinaman driving a horse.  They are houses, swung low on two wheels, in which squeamish people take a ride in the water, under the propulsion of quiet sea-horses; and quiet they must be or they might soon make mer-men and mer-maids of their fares in the unwadeable depths of the sounding sea.</P>
164.sgm:<P>On our way back we saw the "stubble" of a crop peculiar to Southern California.  Both coal and wood are dear here, so it pays to raise trees.  The Australian Gum, being the fastest growing, is most planted and the stumps of a woods of this I saw.  An acre, four years from setting out, yielded forty cords, and as wood brings $8 a cord the profit can be counted up.  This yield was told me by a fellow passenger, but I rather doubted the story.</P>
164.sgm:<P>This night my companions left me for home <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
164.sgm: the Yo Semite; so for the balance of the excursion limit of near a month, I traveled alone.  In my former journey lonely travels did not concern me, as long as my physical burdens were not too heavy.  Sickness and accidents were not looked forward to; but now there were times when I was alone and entirely cut loose from those knowing me, who were thousands of miles away, when I felt a dread of some grim happening with speculations of what would follow.  This fortunately occurred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ONTARIO.  When the author passed by here forty years ago the site of this town was surrounded by leagues of semi-desert and broad stretches of chapparal.  A companion picture to "Marching to the Sea."</P>
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164.sgm:<P>On the 22d of July I visited the oil district of West Los Angeles, two miles away over the hills.  The derricks stood close together--300 to 400 in a territory one-fourth of a mile wide and a mile long.  They average 30 barrels of oil a day, worth $1.25 per barrel.  It is only fit for fuel or gas.  The wells run from 100 to 1000 feet deep and while the above product was claimed the pumpage did not show it.  By a system of cables and cranks, the slack being taken up by heavy weights, ten or twelve wells were pumped with one engine.  The soil is full of asphaltum, which oozes from the soil.  It is a dirty place; this oil field, and I willingly left it to look at West Lake Park with its pretty lake and its surrounding of palms and flowers.</P>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XI.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>Up the California Coast.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Farewell to orchards, flowers and palms!<LB>To nooks where reign perrenial calms!<LB>Again to quest mid ruined walls--<LB>Once busy homes or stately halls--<LB>Where earnest monks their converts made<LB>And the swart neophyte plied his trade,<LB>Brown hills to climb, by shores to roam<LB>While each day brings me nearer home.</HI>
164.sgm:<P>THE warning words on my excursion ticket, that I must be at Philadelphia by the 17th of August under penalty of having the paste-board confiscated on the named date told me that the time for parting had come, so I made ready to say good-bye to Los Angeles and its surroundings.  The morning of the 22d, with the early mass bell of Our Lady, the Queen of the Angels making the air vibrant with calls to the faithful, saw me on my Northward road.  Our route lay between mountains and much of the way along the Los Angeles river; half dried up between drowth and robbery for irrigating the neighboring lands.  When I was here before there was much contention between the country and town about the water; but then it was the vineyards which were being watered at the expense of Los Angeles; now the orchards.  The bed of sand, called river, fronting the city is anything but a thing of beauty, from the large amount taken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>One of my side excursions on the road up the coast was to the old San Fernando Mission; less than two miles from the railroad.  Among the many Eastern travelers few seemed to know of these ruins, or, if aware of them, rushed on to see travel-worn sights.  Train men are inexcusably ignorant of many interesting landmarks along their lines and seem to think their duty done when the tickets are punched with more or less care.  At San Fernando station I left the train and I started at once for the dismantled Mission, and was soon through the outskirts of the little railway town.  Two school houses; one a small one, the other a graded school of some pretensions, halted my attention as being out of proportion in such a thinly settled neighborhood.  Passing over a broad road, lined with eucalyptus trees, a half hour brought me to San Fernando.</P>
164.sgm:<P>After the establishment of the Missions of Santa Barbara and San Gabriel, it was thought by the fathers that the span of travel between needed a supporting pier; lest the mountain gentiles might break it; so in 1797 another station was laid out for the salvation and enlightenment of the savages.  A fertile tract selected was known as the Rancho Reyes.  Amid the usual ceremonies the Mission was formally dedicated under the name of San Fernando Rey; after the canonized king of Spain, Fernando Third.  The present buildings were erected in 1806, and their ruins, even, show the skill of the Indian converts under the teachings of the Franciscan Fathers.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>I found the ruins of San Fernando the most extensive and picturesque among the Missions.  They covered, independent of the garden-walls, twenty acres.  The main buildings alone, in an irregular way, were 420 by 175 feet, as one long structure continued or intersected another.  The Monastery was 60 by 240 feet, with an ell shaped building cornering to it 120 by 180.  Adjoining this was the roofless church 36 by 180 and bell tower 24 by 36 feet, besides a smaller wing.  The church walls were six feet thick and thirty feet high.  The inside showed pillars and niches for statuary and panels for pictures.  The roof was gone except the ridge-pole and rafters on one side.  The cross-beams were 12 by 18 inches and 36 feet long.  The timbers were well preserved; in our climate they would have rotted long ago.  How they were brought from the mountains and raised to their places with the crude appliances of those times seems wonderful.  The choir-loft timbers were mostly gone and the tiled floor, once thronged with worshippers, grown with weeds and scattered with debris from the ruined roof.  The large Monastery where the Monks lived and the stores were kept, and spinning, weaving and the finer arts carried on was a noble example of early Californian architecture, as shown in its corridor of nineteen arches.  The red tiled roof adds to its picturesqueness.  A chapel occupies one end; but the Chinese ranch-cook could not let me in; in fact took as little interest in the ruins as two or three whites I saw around there, and was as little disposed to politeness.  The connecting buildings were going to ruin fast.  I noticed that the roof-timbers were in places lashed together with raw-hide ropes like those of Dolores, a common fashion where cattle could be had for the killing and iron was scarce.  Coarse reeds made a bed for the tiles, which hung over the eaves so precariously as to endanger life for those walking underneath.</P>
164.sgm:<P>I give a bird's-eye view of the Monastery roof; showing how the tiles are laid; and giving the reader an idea of the immense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CHURCH OF SAN FERNANDO.  From breach in monastery wall.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Fronting the Monastery was what had been a handsome fountain; but now mouldy and disfigured by age and neglect.  The basin was twenty feet across and four deep, and rising from it was a series of carved bowls tapering up a shaft over which water brought from the distant mountains once plashed and sparkled.  On one side was a well like the one from which the woman of Samaria filled her water jar and here the village women surrounding it once replenished their own as they recounted the neighborhood gossip, or their own perplexities one to another; and here in the cool of the evening the Monks paced to and fro in religious meditation, or planning the morrows duties; while the water melodiously dropped in the fountain.  I think while the orchards, vineyards and gardens were in their prime San Fernando must have been delightful to look upon.  Water was brought in pipes and open ways from the adjacent range, and from its application the earth yielded bounteously of its hidden stores.  Grain, an hundred fold, pastures which made cattle and sheep wax fat, fruits of all kinds, gave San Fernando note; while the wine, trodden by the dusky feet of the pressers, and aged for years, was the talk of travelers who freely partook of the Mission fare, as they journeyed up the coast from San Diego to far north Dolores.  Ruined houses were scattered around; some mere piles of dissolved adobes, enough to have homed five or six hundred people.  There was but one habitable, and that barely so, and in it dwelt two women, the remnant of the hundreds of dusky Indian converts who once gave the Mission busy life.  One was Josafa--Hosafa--aged one hundred and nine, and her daughter Felicita whose years I did not ask.  What pretty names! but sur-names they had none; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:"el custombra del pai&acute;s"--the custom of the country, now as of old; but how few to whom it is applicable; for, the way they are going, the Mexican-Indian's passing will soon be.  To think of Josafa being nine years old when Padre Lascuen, whose grave I saw at Carmelo, dedicated the Mission in 1797? and a blushing girl of sixteen at the erection of the present buildings in 1804.  She was baptized, grew up, lived at the nunnery under the eye of its aged prioress, wove and spun; said her prayers at the ring of the angelus; passed through score after score of years, as others passed through decades; in which there was marriage, children and death, and now, a poor withered left-over, she was answering my questions through Felicita as well as her thick speech, dulled ear and mind of second-childhood would allow; an example of human endurance.  Fain would I have learned direct from her the doings of the far past here,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"When in their newness rose the Mission towers<LB>And white Presidio,<LB>Their swart commander in his leathern jerkin,<LB>The priest in stole of snow,"</HI>
164.sgm:<P>but her infirmities and my indifferent Spanish, even when helped out by the giddy seventy-year old Felicita, prevented satisfactory quest.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Around the Mission garden, now a wheat field, was a wall, or its ruins, two miles long.  That left standing was eight feet high and had been ten.  The sun-dried bricks to build it, counting their size, 4X12X24, must have numbered 250,000, and taking a man's daily work at 100 bricks, a convict's "stent" was 70, it took 2500 days, for one man, to make them.  There was another garden wall of half that length, and taking that, with the material in the Mission buildings and dwellings the item of bricks alone was great.  Then the tile making, acqueduct building, and other work outside of farming and herding, show what these late wandering heathen could do.  The records note that there were but 614 people at the Mission at the time of building.  How the small number of men represented by this total did so much is a marvel.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Belonging to San Fernando in 1826 there were 57,000 head of cattle, 1500 horses and 64,000 sheep.  This was about the height of the Mission's prosperity.  Taking into account that this was but one of the many similar establishments scattered along the coast we can form some idea of the work of the early Jesuits and later San Franciscans.</P>
164.sgm:<P>In the old garden I saw some olive trees near one hundred years old.  The olive is long lived; even to 250 years.  In 1800 a large grove was planted at San Fernando; 500 trees in all.  There are 400 of these left yet, in spite of the neglect following the dismantling of the Spanish Missions.  They were seemingly in irreclaimable decadence in 1881, when they were closely pruned, and then so increased in bearing that they now yield twenty tons of fruit.  Here are three palm trees, a hundred years old.  Two of them stood together, their fronded heads sixty feet above the plain.  One was three feet across the trunk.  They are called the Palms of San Fernando and are noted landmarks.  In isolation looking across at the distant ruins, and old enough to tell the tale of the rise progress and decay of San Fernando they seemed like ghosts of the dim past.  With its fruits and flowers; trees and vines; fountains and shady walks; what a paradise this hundred-acre garden must have seemed!  Why walled we can only guess.  Perhaps to ward off the cold winds from some of the more sensitive vegetation; perhaps to keep off wild beasts.  Two men I sought information from knew nothing.  They were void of sentiment and look at me with tolerant wonderment as I questioned and walked off for farther research.  With such Americans what could I expect from Mexicans and Chinese.</P>
164.sgm:<P>In looking around I saw a house among the trees and knowing there must be fruit about, and it being the time the rich call lunch and the poor dinner, and feeling content with hermit fare for my mid-day meal, I went to seek the same.  My first greeting was the cry of a little girl of two years; the next the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Repassing the fountain I thought of the lively scenes at sundown, when the men and cattle came home from their work; when the women moved to and fro under their poised water jars, and the Ramonas and Francescas among them cast sheep eyes at the Pablos and Juans as they came in from their plowing and reaping.  Then around again by flanking ruins to the roofless church with its displaced, leaning timbers and crumbling walls.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The columns once supporting the cloister-front were all down but one.  These had extended a hundred feet and connected the church with the Monastery.  The lines of these three buildings reached over 500 feet; and, except the last, were a mass of ruins, showing breached walls, fallen pillars and heaps of crumbling adobes and scattered tiles.</P>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN FERNANDO CHURCH.  As it was ten years ago, showing by comparison with another view of same--"San Fernando Church from Monastery Walls"--how the Missions are going.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>In a side room of the church I noticed a wall-space painted blood-red, and on this, in black letters around a skull and cross-bones, "Texano!  Who dares to deface these walls, beware!"  There was so much of the dime-novel and melo-drama about this that I experienced a sort of a creeping sensation, and unconsciously looked around for the Avenger who might mistake me for the desecrating Texan, and hence departed.</P>
164.sgm:<P>In the rear of the church was a small grave-yard; some of the graves surrounded with pickets, singly as is common in isolated burying grounds in the wild, far west; others with upended tiles, for head-stones, sanctified by once having covered the church, and now and then a freshly painted cross.  There was something pathetic in the way these graves were crowded to the church-wall, as if the souls of the dead would rest more peacefully were the bodies in its shadow.  The decoration of graves with flowers is a Mexican observance.  The fierce noonday suns antagonize this, but the custom is kept up.  In wreaths and in water jars these were on the newer mounds.  The water was dried up and the wreaths withered; but doubtless the friends of the dead would replace them.  Where these live I know not, for Mexicans are scarce around San Fernando.  Two of the graves had head-boards and showed <HI REND="italics">hic jocet</HI>
164.sgm:.<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Rafael Miranda<LB>Natural de Opodepe, Estado de Sonora, Mexico<LB>Fellicio<LB>El dia 27 de Mayo, de 1883, Al Aedad de 23."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Also-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Dolores Bermudes<LB>De Santa Cruz, Sonora, Mexico<LB>Fellicio<LB>El dia 24 de Feb. de 1892, Al Aedad de 60."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>The expression-- <HI REND="italics">Fellicio</HI>
164.sgm:, made happy, on the dates named--was touching, and Mexican in its idea of death.  I would like to think they were lovers, buried together, by request, where they died, far from their homes; but their ages forbade the thought.  The head-boards were fresh painted and lettered, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>But I must leave this melancholy place.  The dropping tiles and crumbling walls; the weed grown floors, fallen timbers, and silent bell tower; the little grave-yard with its mounds of sand, leaning crosses and withered flowers are accenting my lonely feelings and fostering a depression which drives me away.</P>
164.sgm:<P>But before leaving San Fernando I must give some statistics concerning it.  The original tract was 170 square miles in extent.  After the dismantling of the Missions it was sold to one Eulogio Celis, and the bulk of it afterwards to G. K. Porter and Brother, now known as the Porter Land and Water Company, who sell or rent the land with water privileges.  This tract is made fruitful by irrigation.  There are one thousand acres in with orchards; the rest grain and pasture lands.  What seemed a broad, flat pile of straw in front of the Monastery attracted my attention.  Examination proved it 30,000 sacks of wheat worth $57,000, ready for shipment; covered with straw to keep off sun and fog.  Rain does not enter the calculations of the California farmer in summer.  Grain, hay and sugar beets are hauled on open cars, and farm machinery is "housed" from one year's end to the other in the "big wagon house."</P>
164.sgm:<P>Since I was at San Fernando the Landmarks Club has paid it a beneficent visit.  To those who do not know this organization I will say that two years ago a few citizens of Southern California convened and formed the nucleus of an association for the preservation of the Mission buildings between San Diego and San Francisco.  These were fast going to ruin and were marked by falling and bulging walls, roofs wholly fallen in, or with deeply frayed edges from dropping tile; collapsing arches and towers, and floors grown with weeds or full of rubbish.  A picture of the San Fernando church taken ten years ago shows several columns standing where now is but one, and in a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Only those who have seen these immense buildings, designed by those who learned their trade under inspiration from the picturesque architecture of Moorish Spain, tottering to near-by ruin, can know what the efforts and accomplishments of the "Landmarks Club" mean.<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
164.sgm: The size of some of these buildings is wonderful, considering the circumstances attending their erections, and show how full of hope for the salvation of the surrounding heathen were the San Franciscan Monks who planned and built them; for their initial success led the Fathers to think their Indian converts would continue to increase till the Church in Old Spain would be duplicated in numbers on the shores of the Northern Pacific, and they built up to their hopes.  The Monastery of San Juan Capistrano--near San Diego--shows corridors 400 feet long, with a church and connecting buildings of corresponding sizes.  The roof of the San Fernando Monastery is a half acre in extent.  Two acres of open buildings have been covered by the Landmarks Club since it started in 1896, when San Juan was repaired.  It was almost past hope, but the church and Monastery, with its noble corridors, are roofed and saved, and the subordinate buildings are under care through clamped and buttressed walls.  With but $3000 raised, for this is a prosaic, utilitarian age, even in the Californian land of Romance, all this has been done.  Where means fell short, wooden sheating was applied whereon to place tiles when they could be afforded.  The rescued <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A MISSION RUIN.</P>
164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CHURCH, SAN FERNANDO.  Since the Landmarks Club re-roofed it.</P>
164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE MONASTERY, SAN FERNANDO.  Roofed and put in original condition (10,000 tiles used, surface 1/2 acre).</P>
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164.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1">I give several illustrations of the Mission buildings of San Fernando showing their decay, ruin and the results of efforts to save them.</NOTE>
164.sgm:<P>Away from Mission ruins and memories and back to life at San Fernando Station.  Then on to Saugus where the railroad forks, inland to San Francisco and westward to the coast.  Saugus is a sun-dried place, composed of a station house and water tank.  Mexicans and Indians work on the line for one dollar a day.  Jesus, pronounced <HI REND="italics">Kay-suse</HI>
164.sgm:<P>After a tedious wait at Saugus, a place all travelers for Santa Barbara will remember as being one of the most difficult places wherein to kill time, the Los Angeles train came at last, and was soon bearing us down the Santa Clara Valley, whose river starts from the 7000 feet-long tunnel, we passed through three miles back, and which we follow to Ventura on the coast.  Before six o'clock we came to Camulus, and what reader of Ramona will not remember this; for here its leading character lived and loved, and here had their fictitious being the Senora Morena, Felipe and Alisandro, the lover, and Juan Can, Marda <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE MONASTERY ROOF.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>But, making the matter impersonal, the subject of the author in Ramona is inexhaustable.  Any one who has studied up the California Missions from their inception to their downfall, or traveled among their ruins, mural or human, must be impressed by the way Helen Hunt Jackson has handled her subject; so if I have treated my passage through Camulus lightly, I must add I would have been happy to have spent enough time there to familiarize myself with Ramona's home and its picturesque surroundings.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>You come across a varied assortment of travelers in California cars.  A person who got on at Saugus brought along a combination of instruction and amusement.  This was a woman, tall and angular; her gray hair cut short and topped off with an untrimmed straw hat.  At one time I would have called her old, but when one gets in the decade before the Psalmist's fateful year he will realize that old age is a relative term, and only applies, like fever and ague in new countries, to sections "over the range."  She might have been sixty-five or seventy; what matter?  If we are not there now we'll get there, if we live; at any rate I did not ask her age.  There is, as in the sheriff's trade, a place to draw the line.  One thing is certain, she did not "make up" to simulate youth.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Being neighbors we got to talking, when I learned she ran a bee-ranch; and interesting was her description of those hot-tempered, hot-footed insects; their habits, customs and manners.  Her home was in a canyon--miles from a railroad, where her charge could have shelter from fog and wind; the foes of bees, and where there was plenty of pasture.  Here they improved the shining hours by gathering honey all the day, if not from every opening flower, from locust and wild-sage and other more prosaic bloom which did as well.  This she put up in sixty-pound cans and shipped to San Francisco, and made money selling it at four and a half cents a pound.  There are 10,000 hives in the county, Ventura, and the annual product has been as much as 1500 tons.  There is no rest for the bees, who gather sweets the year round.</P>
164.sgm:<P>My informant was an enthusiast on the bee question.  She said she loved her proteges as she did her own family.  I was at a loss to know whether my Bee-woman, as she is known in my memory, was maid, wife or widow, until she told me her husband ran a hog-ranch a hundred miles away, whom she saw every year or so.  Whether he held the same sentiments towards his charge that she did to hers I don't know.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>From bees we shifted our talk to religion; why, I can't say, except from some sort of conversational evolution, through them to idleness and thence to Satan.  The Bee-woman was a Seventh-day, Second Adventist, a term ringing with numerical adjectives; and meaning she had a composite belief of Seventh-day Baptism and Second Adventism; I hope I make myself clear.  California is full of religious isms.  Sects which are rare East thrive there; in numbers if not in membership.  This branch of the Adventist has a college in Sonoma county, which shows it must have some strength.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The Bee-woman was as full of Scripture as of bee-lore, and when I remarked her aptness at quotation mourned her Biblical ignorance, as a hostess does her poor cookery when she wants it praised; and, to prove it, fired a second volley of texts to show her belief was right.  She certainly was posted on Scripture; especially that portion pertaining to the Lord's day, and in proof of Christ's second coming.  One belief is all one cares generally to defend but she easily took care of two.  Did they have Sunday schools in her church?  No, but they had <HI REND="italics">Sabbath</HI>
164.sgm:<P>So much for my Bee-woman; undoubtedly a sincere, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The Santa Clara Valley was great as a producer of beans as well as honey.  Ventura county in 1895 raised $1,000,000 worth.  The annual product of Limas is estimated at 30,000 tons.  Think of a 2000 acre bean patch!  I forbear mentioning Boston.  But Ventura is a land flowing with much besides Beans and Honey.  Oranges, Lemons, Figs, Walnuts, Olives as well as stone-fruit, grow in profusion.</P>
164.sgm:<P>At Statacoy we stopped for supper.  From the excitement around the station and the water running down the street I thought an irrigating dam had sprung a leak; but a flowing artesian well had been struck instead, and its bursting forth had caused the commotion.  These wells are the life of the country.  There is much jealousy among rival settlements, and when one develops a copious flowing well it means beans, and walnuts; grain, vegetables and fruits, and the people shout with an exceeding joy thereat.  They bite their thumbs at their envious neighbors and boast vaingloriously.  This feeling is not known in the East, where the rain falls on all alike, and the land is all taken up.  Here water rights go with the land, and when water in flowing quantities is found it means wealth to that section and the selling of land at good prices.  Following down the Santa Clara we saw the sea at Buenaventura.  Ever welcome, ever new the bright Pacific, whose waves I sailed over here in the far past!  The town name is now shortened to Ventura; The "poco tiempo" Spaniards had plenty of time to pronounce it <HI REND="italics">in extenso</HI>
164.sgm:; the Yankees have not.  Here I saw the old Mission church; now renovated; but I only had a passing glance; showing the same pleasing style of architecture of the other Mission buildings along the coast.  There was the chapel and the usual corridored Monastery at right angles; built of stone <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>It was dark when we got to Santa Barbara.  Here I had friends expecting me; a pleasure in anticipation, and well realized.  A pleasant evening was passed in their home circle.  I was tired from my walks around San Fernando and my talks in getting information; so that jotting down my day's experience was a weariness to the flesh; but I got through by midnight, and the sleep of the weary which followed made me ready for the morrow's sight-seeing.</P>
164.sgm:<P>My friend, who on account of the health of a daughter, is for an indefinite time at Santa Barbara, procured a carriage and we had a delightful ride around this rare old town.  One of the first places visited was Fremont's Headquarters.  A town without this landmark is an oddity in California.  Along the shores of Mission Creek, near the beach, is Burton's Mound; an elevation where the Indians one hundred years ago or more buried their dead, and cart-loads of pottery with them.  Some of the vessels are very large.  On the summit is a modernized adobe house.  Here is a sulphur spring and the place was bought whereon to erect a hotel, but this never got beyond the plans.  We saw many of the tiled adobes of Dana's time; some in fair preservation; some in ruins; all picturesque.  It is a fad for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:the wealthy to buy up the old tiles wherewith to cover their new buildings; making a boom in this semi-cylindrical, cinnamon-bark shaped earthen-ware.  It will detract from Santa Barbara when the adobes with their tiled roofs and low porticos are torn down.  This place had its boom, but it failed.  It was an unnatural effort.  It was intended for a sleepy town, where the lovers of the quaint and beautiful in architecture and nature, as well as invalids, could pass a section of their time, or end their days.  But the boomers would not have that, so they tore down the red-roofed cottages of gray; widened the streets; built water-works and planned a fine hotel on Burton's Mound, Verily,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"City lots were staked<LB>Where once were Indian graves."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>A future metropolis was in sight; real estate went up, but the bubble burst, and great was the burst thereof; so the Indian bones rest undisturbed by cellar foundations.  A resort for the wealthy and unhealthy is all Santa Barbara aspires to now; and it is not disappointed; for hither these come from all parts; even from beyond seas; a pleasant place wherein to live or die.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Our drive continued to the shore and along the beach.  The sea again, charming in calm or storm!  Sparkling and bright the waves lapped the shore and in undulations stretched southward until they reached the outlying islands which make the harbor of Santa Barbara.  The largest of these is sixteen miles long; they are private property and used as sheep ranges.  Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa are the most important.  The first eastward trend of the coast below the Alaskan Peninsula commences at Point Concepcion, and Santa Barbara being in a central point gets the benefit of its southern exposure; making it unsurpassed for climate and the surrounding country famous for fruit.</P>
164.sgm:<P>When I passed up the coast before, Santa Barbara had no harbor facilities.  Goods were landed in small boats.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:town now has a good wharf; a pier extending 2200 feet to deep water.  It is owned by a company.  From this point the main street extends; starting in quietude and ending in peace.  There is no blocking of the wharf with drays; no swearing of hurrying teamsters; no racing of ambitious horsemen.  The most conspicuous object I saw was a tame Pelican.  Other places have their Town Pumps and their Town Drunkards; Santa Barbara has its Town Pelican who walks the pavement with a conscious pride.  "Have you seen our Pelican?" is a question asked of tourists.  And the Barbarenos may well boast of him.  Quiet in demeanor; large in bulk, and baggy of pouch, which for the benefit of curious strangers he allows the officious small boy to stretch to show its piscal storage capacity.  No steam-whistles break on the ear, for there are no factories to need them; at least I saw none.  There is a listlessness in the air which smothers competition among the storekeepers.  <HI REND="italics">Dolce far niente</HI>
164.sgm:<P>There are fine hotels in this town, as well as beautiful suburban homes; but the attraction, to all but superficial tourists, is the Santa Barbara Mission.  With its spreading wings of church and Monastery and twin towers it is a conspicuous landmark, whether seen from the sea in white-filled outlines against the Santa Ynez Mountains, or from the east and west approaches.  Visiting or departing it inspires the lover of the picturesque.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Its seclusion, together with the tact and forethought of its caretakers, saved it for a long time from the wreckage of secularization, and to-day it is the best preserved Mission on the coast.  This is partly owing to a fund raised by both Protestants and Catholics residing here for its restoration; the one sect from religious zeal; the other to add attraction to the town.  Extensive additions are now being made in the line of its early architecture; tiles being used for roofing.  A convent of San Franciscan Monks is here established; some twenty of the order, with close cropped head; coarse gowns girdled with ropes, and sandled feet can be seen wandering about the buildings, cemetery and garden, and picturesque they seemed, and are ever kind and courteous to the curious traveler.  The main building is substantially constructed of stone; the walls six feet thick.  If my clerical friend from Monterey had been along he would have said it was built thus to be used as a fort in the coming time when the two prominent Christian sects will come to war, and that the monks in their kindness had some deep design; that in the dungeons below were racks and other machinery for conversion.  Up the bell tower ran a circular stone stairway; hard to mount but the reward was great in the view obtained.  The bells were quaintly inscribed and had been given near a century ago by pious devotees of Spain to her faithful missionaries in the California wilderness, and had since without interruption called the faithful to prayer and praise, for there have been no breaks here.  Throughout the time other Missions had risen, prospered and gone to ruin these had swung and pealed; these <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Bells of the past whose solemn, ringing music<LB>Still fills the wide expanse<LB>Tingeing the sober twilight of the present<LB>With color of romance."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>There were painted images in stone, life size, about the belfry representing saints, quaintly carved; the work of Indian converts in the long ago.  The roofs of the long wings are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>Inside, the church was full of interest.  Under the floor was the grave of Padre Garcia who did so much to save the Mission from the spoilers who were breaking down the other establishments; his official hat hanging on the wall above.  There was an image of the patron saint, Santa Barbara, surrounded by six columns, and figures of the three Graces; all cut from stone and, as was the custom, painted.  Another statue, life size, was Mary bending over the dead Christ.  This was in a curtained alcove.  Back of the pulpit were gaudy statuary and around the walls were numerous paintings.  On the right of the altar was a picture, which in one frame, represented the World, Heaven and Hell.  The first showed life as we see it about us; the second beatific scenes as the realistic Christian dreams them, and hopes to see after the dread shuffling off; green-shored streams, golden streets, winged angels with harps and trumpets; and the Father, Mother and Son in all their radiance.  The last scene was Dante's Infierno.  And such a sight!  Imps of darkness as our childish fancies pictured them, from claw foot to grinning face and horned skull; from forked tail to pitch-fork; semblances of wicked humanity tortured in all ways; sulphurous fires and glowing lake.  Such paintings as these did much to appeal to the hearts of the simple-minded heathen, and even our friend the Monk, used as he was to the surroundings, described with awe and in hushed tones.</P>
164.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>From a side door we passed out to the cemetery--Holy Field, as the Mexicans have it.  Over the door-way a skull and cross-bones were walled in, in relief; naturally a shocking sight, but in keeping with the surroundings.  Thousands of Indians had been buried here in trenches, and, as the bones were bared, dug up and stored in a gruesome building standing in a corner of the yard.  The <HI REND="italics">elite</HI>
164.sgm:<P>In the museum of the Mission we saw some interesting relics of the past.  One was a volume of mass and song services--there were seven books in all, each with 218 leaves, and each leaf representing a sheep.  The parchments showed fine workmanship and were 24 by 30 inches.  The lettering was done with a pen and "in print."  It must have taken the patient friars years and years on this black letter work; as musical notes and all were as well formed as if from type.  The volumes were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>The corridor with its row of cool, shadowy arches brought to mind the wedding of the Senorita Gonzaga to General Morena, as told in Ramona; for there the feast was held.  "The whole country far and near was bid.  The feast lasted three days; open table to every body; singing, dancing, eating, drinking and making merry.  At that time there were long streets of Indian houses stretching eastward from the Mission; before each of these was built a booth of green boughs.  The Indians, as well as the Fathers from all the other Missions, were invited to come.  The Indians came in bands singing songs and bringing gifts.  As they appeared the Santa Barbara Indians went out to meet them; also singing, bearing gifts, and strewing seeds on the ground in token of welcome.  The young Senora and her bridegroom splendidly clothed were seen of all and greeted whenever they appeared with showers of seeds and grain and blossoms.  On the third day, still in their wedding attire, they walked with the Monks in a procession, round and round the new tower, now being dedicated, the Monks chanting and sprinkling incense and holy water on the walls.  After this they journeyed in state to Monterey, accompanied by priests and officers; stopping at all the Missions on the way and being entertained at each."</P>
164.sgm:<P>From this fine description I come to plain statistic.  The church proper is 192 by 60 feet; the corridored adjunct 208 by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>There were, in the height of the Mission's prosperity, 250 adobe dwellings in the Indian village, floored with asphaltum, and more comfortable, travelers said, than the white people's at the Prisidio; picturesque in their whitewash and roofs of red tiles.  These are all gone with those who dwelt therein; adobe to adobe; dust to dust.  The skill of these Indians was such that their work was known up and down the coast.  There were two hundred whose business was working on cloth and their dyes won admiration.  They were skilled in masonry and carpenter work as well as in leather embossing, taught by artisans sent up from Mexico.  The land from mountain to sea was fertile, and in 1828, when an "account of stock" was taken, there were 44,000 head of cattle and 20,000 sheep, while the Indians numbered 1000.  In 1835 the decline, however, was noticeable, the number of the last falling to 742.  From that year the native population fell away fast, on account of the loss of priestly control and care.</P>
164.sgm:<P>A recent writer thus alludes to Mission life.  "At daylight, all was astir.  Those who were able attended mass; then a breakfast of <HI REND="italics">atole</HI>
164.sgm:, or barley gruel, and at sunrise to their daily tasks.  At noon came <HI REND="italics">atole</HI>
164.sgm:<P>"There was much of the commune in Mission life.  Each morning the Granary-master dealt out the day's food to each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>"At five o'clock the labors of the day were ended, and man and beast plodded homeward.  At sundown came the `Angelus' calling the faithful to prayer, and priest and layman; monk and neophyte repaired to the chapel where the Litany was sung and the evening blessing given.  The day was done.</P>
164.sgm:<P>"Thus the male converts.  With the Mission was a nunnery in care of a trusted Indian woman.  She watched the inmates day by day; at night she locked them up.  This was necessary in the condition of society then.</P>
164.sgm:<P>"In the court-yard of the nunnery the girls weaved and spun; laughed and chatted and cast sheeps eyes at the Indian lads as they passed.  This was winked at by the Padres if the girls were of proper age.</P>
164.sgm:<P>"All the cloth that was used at the Mission and much used at the Presidios was from the deft fingers of these swarthy maidens, besides all blankets, sheets, table-cloths, towels and napkins.  Thus were they trained as useful house-wives."</P>
164.sgm:<P>In the afternoon my friend took me on a drive several miles down the coast.  He was agreeable, congenial and instructive; the landscape from sea to mountain to be admired and the horse a good traveler.  The foot-hills--"falda," as the Spaniards in their happy imagery called these convolutions from their resemblance to the trail of a dress--of the coast-range were slashed with rugged canyons; beautiful in seasons of rain, but now browned with drowth and with but little water in the stream-beds to brighten them.  Sycamores and live-oaks were the prominent woods; the former so rough and gnarley as to seem like another species from our own.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>At Magee's Ranch--La Parra Granda, how the name of the owner jars on that of his domain--we saw the king grape-vine of California.  The trunk is fifty-two inches in circumference and the branches cover 5000 feet of surface and have born five tons of grapes in a season.  And whence came it?  One <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>We were soon on our way back to Santa Barbara by the shore route; and such a wealth of ornamental vegetation as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>The sea-breeze arose as we neared Santa Barbara and as the sprinkler had laid the dust traveling was pleasant.  The view of scenes on either hand of mountain, sea and vegetation almost clogged our senses with its beauty.  A glance at the Channel, and islands beyond, with thoughts of that Old Man of the Sea," the "Senator;" who years long gone reversed the characters by bearing me on his back, took me to the time when we halted here on our up-coast journey, when my prospects looked as blue as the Italian sea and sky around me; that "Senator" which swam the seas during the height of the gold excitement, popular and prosperous; now stripped of engines and a plebian collier; a Senator without his toga, as it were and a blouse-clad, sans-cullotte, performing menial duty.  Then up the main street, Mission-ward and on the home-stretch.  The same delightful, quiet street, and the town Pelican, that loyal fowl, the national bird of Santa Barbara, waddling along the pavement waiting to have his pouch stretched for the amusement of strangers.  I stopped at the stage-office to get "booked," English, you know! for the overland road up the coast; a stage ride of seventy-five miles.  It is the thing to sit with the driver, so I engaged the seat beside him.  Then to my friend's home; a pleasant evening with his family; an early awakening in the morning; a farewell to my kind entertainers and I was off through the foggy air.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The coach was a Concord, drawn by four bay horses and driven by "Dave" somebody, a typical "Hank Monk," wearing last year's straw hat cocked over his left eye: a gray <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>There are two routes up the coast; one favored by the Southern Pacific, as we were going; the other across the Santa Ynez range.  And here let me caution the tourist that to be <HI REND="italics">en rapport</HI>
164.sgm: with the people he must pronounce the name <HI REND="italics">Santinaze</HI>
164.sgm: accent on last syllable.  Similarly he must call Las Olivos, <HI REND="italics">Loce Aleevose</HI>
164.sgm:<P>The road was good, having been sprinkled in the night.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>Flanked by mountain and sea we cantered and trotted along over the dust-laid road.  Towns of any extent are watered night and day, and this system is extended to the country roads--unless the people are too poor.  The supply first comes from corporation works; then from artesian wells, with wind pumps, sometimes from wells to which are attached horse-powers, which are turned by teams unhitched form the sprinklers.  This comes high, but the people think they must have it, and I know we enjoyed the freedom from dust, while the luxury lasted.  I saw several large fields of pampas-grass along the way; but that crop, like many others, is over-produced and the farmers were grubbing up fields of this plant at great loss.  English walnuts are the "drive" now.  The orchards are many; the trees in sections lining the road and the crop heavy.  I saw limbs breaking under the weight of nuts.  Silver poplar and Australian Gum are common road-side trees.  Along the Cooper ranch the last lined the road for a mile.  These trees were planted two feet apart, were six inches in diameter and sixty feet high.  These were nine years old, and used for fuel when needed.  Among the orchards were large patches of pumpkins; the yellow spheres shining among the greenery of vines and suggestive of my favorite pie.</P>
164.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>At I o'clock we passed the town of Elwood.  This had been the starting place of the stage; but the railroad travel did not pay, the stage replaced the cars and a retrograde to first principles, in the direction of the pack-mule, was made; so now the Concord coaches roll along side the rusting rails, and I could imagine a horse-laugh from our quadruple quadrupeds at the change.</P>
164.sgm:<P>My information came like tooth-drawing from David, who from his knack at reaching his leaders with pebbles was properly named from the slayer of Goliah.  Naturally taciturn, he devoted his limited conversational powers to his comrade, the drummer; as if saying to the fare, perched aloft behind him, "You are no regular; you have no cigars; so ask no questions and I'll tell you no lies."  I however got his smoke; he could not deprive me of that.  David, as I said, had an unshaven beard; besides this neglect his shoes were unblacked and one was cut open to relieve a mashed foot; as over roads like ours accidents will happen to the best regulated coachman.  His trouble was last spring when he was upset crossing the Santa Ynez river.  Of course the Sphinx-like Dave did not tell me this; it came from a subsequent driver, who I think had an envious mind.  This son of Nimshi also knew Hank Monk; the drivers all knew Hank, or said they did to accommodate enquiring green-horns.  He said "it was luck ailed Hank; he was no slouch of a driver, to be sure, but luck it was got him along.  Just the same with Dave; but I've nuthin agin Dave; but a man wants suthin besides luck.  Did he tell you about his upsot on the Santinaze?  Reckon not!  I was with him; told him jist where the rock was; but Dave jist natterally went on; trusted to his luck, you see.  Wall he trusted to it once too often.  Over he went; hosses, stage and all.  In gettin out one of his hosses got on top of Dave, and that's what ails his foot.  The hosses was saved.  What became of the passengers?  Oh they was only two of 'em, and they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>Dave had staged thirty-eight years and had soured on curious passengers; answering them in monosyllables generally; his yes, sounding like "Yarp;" his no "Nope;" so his yea was not yea, nor his nay, nay, though perhaps a truthful man.  He was all right with the drummer, however; who had traveled up and down the coast so often he need ask but few questions.  He was a careful driver; albeit, and could flick a fly from a leader's ear, if occasion demanded.  To manage a four or six-horse team on the sharp curves at gulch crossings, when you went down one side, turned short and came back the other, required a steady hand, and a foot ever ready for the lever.  To give the coach a start up the opposite bank the brake, often a "dead" one, must come off before the bottom is reached; when away go the horses on a trot or gallop; soon to come down to a hard slow pull.  But David was equal to such crisis.  He had crossed the Plains; knew what a road agent was, and was a good, all-round-square driver; but I could have wished him more free with his tongue.  His coach had crossed the plains, also, to and fro.  It weighed a ton; had been thirty years in use and cost $1500.  There were twenty layers of leather stretched from front to rear bolster; the best spring for such roads, as steel would certainly break with the jolts we were subjected to, and made the ride bearable.  The best coaches came from Concord, N.H., and are therefore rightly named.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The stage line was one of many owned by a man named Wines.  He had 150 horses and 20 coaches.  He pays $10 apiece for his animals and does his own breaking; or rather his drivers do it for him.  A pair in the, "swing" of a six-horse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>We at last got out of reach of the sprinkler, and for awhile were in clouds of dust; but much of the way was adobe, as hard and smooth as asphalt.  We saw many ground squirrels; growing more numerous as we advanced; until they were always in sight, scurrying right and left for their holes.  They were brown in color, often with white shoulder-capes.  These and gophers are the pests of the farmers.  The tough adobe, even, is perforated with their holes.  Jack-rabbits are not bad here, but over the range, about Fresno they are such a pest that they are impounded and killed by thousands.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Beyond Elwood we climbed a steep hill where last year an insecure brake caused the death of a driver, and the injury of two men and the death of three horses; encouraging information for us.  A large sign marked "Naples," around which were laid out streets, but there were no houses to show the town we should "see and die."  Large beds of asphaltum lie at the foot of the mountains and this shall be the sea-port for its shipment--when the good times come.  At Naples proper, a sun-burned town of a few houses we changed our mail and horses--a brown, dun, bay and gray for our "solid" team.  We were now coming among that pest of grazing lands, the Tarplant, and the noses of the cattle were brown and sticky with its exudations.  There are still left stretches of chapparal hedge in vogue before the era of wire fence; a ragged, unsightly enclosure.  We soon came to the edge of the sea; which made our ride more interesting.  A broad, purple margin near shore showed a bed of sea-weed or kelp.  This is so dense it breaks the surf and makes it difficult for boats and even larger vessels to land, as recorded in the journals of early voyagers.  A tall crane, standing on the edge of the water in one-legged meditation attracted our notice.  We passed a bunch of 200 cattle in charge of mounted herders, then a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>We got dinner at Arroyo Honda, a hill-locked, hot place, with dust arising at the slightest pretext and settling on every thing.  The weather was hard on butter, or rather soft on it; but it need not have affected the coffee and meat.  We were glad to get away.  Parting with Dave brought a new driver.  He was a grass widower, by unconscious admission.  His wife had gone off with a more or less handsome man, to be lost in the vortex of gay San Franciscan life; but he was optomistic, and said, as he happily put it, "there were as nice pebbles on the beach as were ever picked."  This made fun for the cynical drummer who was not one to see sermons in pebbles or good in anything, and he more than guyed the new whip; illy repaying his marital confidence.  This was much enjoyed by my fellows on the high seat whose sympathies ran with the road knight and who enjoyed his yarns in proportion to their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>The soil was so parched and seamed by the sun that it was a wonder how the sheep avoided broken legs.  We were now nearing Gaviote Pass, a long, deep and winding canyon, and the only means of reaching the upper coast.  There were high, over-hanging rocks, dusty roads and gulches many; horse-shoe curves and crossings steep, which our young, marital-troubled-driver took us through and over safely.  The Pass was tenmiles long.  At the Mexican village of Santa Cruz our tired, dust-brown grays slaked their thirst at a rustic fountain.  Santa Cruz was typical of the herdsmen villages of the far past; low houses, dark-featured men and women; and horse equipments and ranch paraphernalia hanging or lying around.  We were in the heart of the Santa Ynez mountains, a grazing, sparsely settled region; the land-marks with Spanish nomenclature, which again took one back to the days of the Missions.  We were in the land of <HI REND="italics">ranchos, canadas</HI>
164.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">canons; arroyes, rios</HI>
164.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Sierras</HI>
164.sgm: and we saw types of the original people, some in quaint attire; but not a school-house or church.  We got out of the Gaviote Pass at last, and came to the Rancho San Julian, owned by Dibble Brothers.  Through canyons and over "grades" we followed the ranch for sixteen miles; a holding so large that the county road passes through it only on sufferance; to such condition has it come at last.  No wonder the people remonstrate, when the carrier of the United States mail has to get out and open gates at each end of an obstructing ranch, as large as some counties.  The road was an expensive one to build on account of side-cuts and bridges and was made by the ranch-owners.  Vehicles pass through free; but not sheep or cattle.  On the Rancho San Julian are 1000 horses, 10,000 cattle and 15,000 sheep; figures remindful of the old Missions; but of romance there was none.  Saying nothing of the swings and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:lurches of the coach the road was dangerous for the high-seat riders from the gnarled limbs reaching out from Sycamore and live-oak, and threatening skull-fracture; so we became artful dodgers to the amusement of the drummer below whose warning cries of "low bridge" we tried to think funny.  This gentleman was entertainer for the crowd--outside his present victim.  His attention was divided between the wife-bereft driver, two ladies inside and the out-reaching limbs, from which he was safe.  Between talking to the insides, in a familiar, know it all way, narrating experiences on the road to his near companions and guying Dave's successor he seemed to enjoy himself.  Underneath all he showed keen, business tact and was successful in his calling.  One of my high-seat companions was of the "Smart Aleck" variety.  The note-book I frequently brought in use much amused him, and he would cutely call my attention to scraps in the conversation and <HI REND="italics">outre</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Animal life in this strange region, of the wild kind, was limited to squirrels and gophers; the first always in sight hurrying for their burrows at our approach, the last only seen at rise or set of sun.  Buzzards were plenty; sitting on the ground or circling and soaring high on the look-out for dead cattle or sheep.</P>
164.sgm:<P>We climbed a hill so steep that we frequently had to rest our horses and in three miles wound to the top, and finally reached a lonely place called Summit, remarkable otherwise for having an English name.  Here we again changed teams; this time to all-around bays.  Here we saw an old time Mexican of the century-ago type; handkerchief about his brown forehead, with sugar-loaf hat thereon, and "serape," or holed-blanket, thrown across his shoulders; a picturesque sight.  We now saw cattle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>Hearing there was a Mission ruin near here I walked to where it lay, a mile away, at the foot of a range of hills skirting the sea.  I felt I must see the remnants of all such establishments within reach of my route and I could not miss this, the most dilapidated of all.  It was once known as the Lompoc Mission and its ruins cover fifteen acres.  A part of the church is standing; isolated walls and mounds mark the rest.  After 1790 one of the "Temblores," or earthquakes which threw down or injured several of the Mission buildings along the coast caused the destruction of Old Lompoc.  Its name was of a tribe of Indians, the only Mission thus sponsored.  It had been prosperous, as the valley is rich.  Water was brought from twelve miles among the mountains in a cemented "accequia," which irrigated the crops and orchards and supplied the fountain, the remains of which fronts the ruins.  This was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:necessary adjunct to all the Mission buildings and was a daily center of attraction; for here the villagers got their supplies of water and the home-cattle quenched their thirst.  The cement used in the construction of this fountain was solid as ever.  The open ditches to carry the water from the mountains were of concrete also.  To thus bring it required some engineering skill.  After the <HI REND="italics">temblor</HI>
164.sgm:<P>The new town is a California rarity, or rather was, as the business element has so far undone the work of the original incorporators as to have a new election ordered by the Legislature.  It had been a Temperance town, and was so incorporated in 1874.  A strong moral element prevailed, kept up by several religious organizations; but now the "wets" hope to quench their thirst on something stronger than tea.  Awaiting the election two saloons have started but the hotels have no bars attached.  My informant, a business man, said the women and church-folks generally mixed up too much in politics in Lompoc.  There are eight churches here, a good showing for a town of 1200; that is, if the congregations are of any size; but there are so many "new lights" in California, and so many divisions of these.  Between the Seventh-day Second Adventists and the old style; the Methodists North and South; two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>There are good hotels in Lompoc; Temperance Houses because the license fees are too high, and not from principle.  I had made a street car conductor's day of it, as it was midnight before I got through, and after jolting since early morning in the stage, looking about the old Mission ruins afterwards and writing up my notes I felt that tired feeling to the utmost and that a hodcarriers lot was not so unhappy.  I was up by four o'clock the next morning to go to Surf, nine miles away.  There is no railroad here so we went by stage.  Although our Concord weighed 1500 pounds our two grays took us through in an hour; but then the road was level and in fine order.  It was surfaced with gravel and kept sprinkled with water from artesian wells one mile apart.  Through the chill of early morning and a foggy air we whirled by field after field of beans, mustard and alfalfa and an occasional pumpkin patch.  I won't trust my memory as to how many tons of those yellow spheres they got from an acre but the total was immense.  The mustard is threshed by horses treading it out in the old Scriptural way, though on broad strips of canvas.  A heavy roller is passed over the straw first; then, four abreast, the horses go their weary rounds.  Ordinary threshing machines will not work at all; the straw being so coarse and seed so fine.  This year, however, a combined header was used with good effect.  The trouble is with the shattered grains.</P>
164.sgm:<P>This section, like Ventura county, is great for beans.  The yield is 1500 to 2000 pounds per acre; the price two cents per pound; mustard 800 to 1000 and worth three and a half cents.  Hay was very low, even down to $2.50 per ton.  On account of lack of rain the following winter this price raised to $12 per ton in Southern California; while at San Francisco it went to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>Surf is at the northern end of the break in the coast railroad.  When this will be filled is a question; the difficulties along the sea being so great.  The road is but little traveled.  After Oceana station was passed there were but two passengers in the day coach.  The country was uninteresting and the weather foggy.  At 7.30 we reached my next halting place, San Luis Obispo.  I stopped here one day and night; mainly to see the Mission.  It is one of the few put in good repair, although the inner decorations are tawdry.  Italians have replaced the declension of the Mexican population; so the church has quite a congregation.  I give a view of the restored Mission, in conjunction with the roofless corridors of San Juan; one of the grandest ruins of California, from its extent and evidences of artistic design and skilled workmanship.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The priest was pacing the paved front to and fro.  I asked for a sight of the Mission relics.  "Stolen, all stolen along with the land," he said.  "By the Mexicans during their rule?"  "No, by somebody since then."  Others besides the Senora Morena, in Ramona, have an unfriendly feeling towards the American spoilers, who took what the "Commissionados," deputized by the Mexican government to secularize the Missions left.  He told me when in the boom time they ran a new street through their grounds the bones of hundreds of the faithful were dug up to make way for the improvement.  In part of the old building the Catholic young men hold social meetings.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The Mission was established in 1772, near the Canada de los Osos--Bear Glen--so named from the number of bears killed the year before to satisfy the starving colonists at San Carlos; a band of soldiers having been sent here for that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RUINS OF CORRIDORS OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO, SINCE RE-ROOFED.</P>
164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAN LUIS OBISPO.</P>
164.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>My hotel had been built up from some old Mission building; a part showing walls six feet thick.  The town has its Spanish quarter, and here I was pleased to wander to wile away the lagging hours, for trains here are like the visit of angels.  The low adobes with their shrubbery and palms and dark eyed, swarthy descendants of the original people had an attraction I could not resist.  And there are picturesque mountains and peaks around the town.  San Luis Peak and Bishop's Mitre, rising abruptly, a thousand feet perhaps, from the western outskirts, are elevations which strike the sight.  An hour in the quiet library; a talk with old citizens about the happy past and dull present; a stroll around the city in vain search of matters of interest and I was ready to leave San Luis Obispo.</P>
164.sgm:<P>In the morning I pursued my way up the coast.  Who should I see the first thing on the car but my trio of companion-outsiders of the Santa Barbara coach?  They were deep in a card-game and oblivious to surroundings.  At Santa Margarita station we saw a picturesque tiled building going to ruin.  It had belonged to the Rancheria of the same name; an outlying tract of the San Luis Mission, and once had its proportion of life in Indians, flocks and herds.  Like other crumbling ruins along the coast it had the effect on the imagination of a skeleton "revisiting the glimpses of the moon."  The roof-tree sagged; the columns leaned and the tiles were dropping one by one, and soon this last vestige of the Rancheria Santa Margarita will sprawl athwart the plain.  Then relic-hunters will buy up the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:tiles for buildings imitative of the Mission style of architecture, the adobes go to fill wash-outs and the hide-bound timbers for fuel.  <HI REND="italics">Sic transit</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Farther on, 208 miles south of San Francisco, are the Mission buildings of San Miguel.  They were quite extensive and also going to ruin, and suggestive of mournful thoughts; with their scarred columns, cracked arches and sunken roof, and the dropped tiles, corded up as if for sale to the new made rich of that country.  A large bell swung on posts near the church--a bell which had called the faithful together for scores of years as a matter of pious obligation; now hung up as a relic of the past to attract the curious.  The iconoclastic steam train tears through the plaza where the adobes of the converts stood and the fountain played, and, for all it cared, through the place of dead neophytes bones.  This church was finished in 1820 and it was a hospitable stopping place for north or south bound travelers.  In 1814 there were about 1100 converts.  The Mission was rich in stock.  The records state in 1821 there were 91,000 cattle, 4000 horses, 2000 mules, 47,000 sheep and 170 yokes of oxen.  In the next year the census showed 600 Indians, which number, contrary to the experience of other Missions had increased to 800 in 1835.  I give these figures to impress the reader with the work of the Spanish Padres in reclaiming the savages from barbarism and enriching the country.  I saw ten of the twenty-one Missions in my travels, visiting eight of them, and two seperate churches.  It may seem a false sentiment that devotes such time and space to these passing landmarks of California, but I am in good company.  Poet, novelist and historian have dwelt on these Missions until they are a part of our national literature.  I have seen them from San Gabriel to Solano; from Santa Barbara, well preserved, and even making additions, to Lompoc in its roofless ruin.  The reader will perhaps feel relieved to know I am done writing about the California Missions but whoever ignores these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:evidences of the past of the state misses much.  A system which extended its operations along the coast for 600 miles in twenty-one establishments, rescued 30,000 people from savagery, changing them from gentile <HI REND="italics">bestias</HI>
164.sgm:<P>We soon passed through a forlorn looking place called Salinas; a small town but with eight saloons.  These looked necessary adjuncts for drowning in stupefaction the sorrows of the surrounding people; the country seemed so poverty stricken.  But since then Claus Spreckel has waved his wand over the valley and good fortune has come to Salinas.  A large sugar plant will start here.  Contracts have been made with farmers to take their beets at fair prices and happiness succeeds discontent, for their leagues of sand were bringing them nothing.  Irrigation is to make the change.  A water system is now under way which will supply the tract abundantly, and all this came from experts finding that this region was adapted producing sugar to an exceptional degree.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>At Gilroy I stopped to see a soldier friend.  My acquaintance with him originated years ago, when I learned he was a sort of an esquire for that doughty old Knight, John Burns of Gettysburg, whose history I was writing up.  The Sergeant was a blacksmith, but much of his time was devoted to his orchard of ten-acres, where his home is, two miles out of town.  His trade has enabled him to beat his sword to a pruning hook, to be used when needed among his trees of apple, peach, apricot, cherry and almond.  Long before he bought the tract his wife had expressed a wish to own it, and one day he surprised her by saying he had bought it.  The first need at such times is a well, wind-mill and tank; and these they have.  Without irrigation orcharding would be a poor business.  Iron pipes carry the water among the trees and the furrows around them do the rest.  Pending the time the house comes the family are living in a plain building which will then be the barn.  With a war experience any soldier might be proud of, and which he modestly tells when requested, the Sergeant awaits the time patiently when fortune will favor him as he deserves it.  I found his family, in three generations, picking, cutting and drying apricots.  The ranch was along the dry bed of the Carnadero river.  Water is nicer than sand for scenery, but for fruit-drying the last is better.  The apricots were picked and in boxes slid down a long schute from the high bank to the cutters and dryers below.  These halved, stoned and spread them on wooden trays five by six feet.  When full these were placed on a little car, one above another, to the height of five feet, and then run into a canvas chamber for bleaching.  Then the doors were closed, the sulphur fired, and by morning the fruit was of the desired whiteness.  Next the frames were spread over the hot sand, and under a scorching sun, in two or three days the apricots were ready for shipment.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Dinner at my friend's home after our stroll around his little farm; an exemplification of "ten acres enough," as far as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XII.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>Again Around San Francisco.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>From mountain jaunts--<LB>By sea and plain<LB>To the City's haunts<LB>I come again.<LB>Whose veins with Klondike fever throb<LB>From water-line to Hill called Nob!<LB>Her thronging marts with tumult rife--<LB>Her Park-lands scenes of quiet life.<LB>Oh!  City, rising hill on hill<LB>I knew thee in thy early days--<LB>I see thee now with mind amaze,<LB>With here a good and there an ill.</HI>
164.sgm:<P>WHEN I got to my lodgings I found all my companions gone.  Sickness and business engagements had caused an unexpected hegira during my absence.  I confess to a lonely "left-over" feeling; a feeling which haunted me that night; intensified by comparison with companionship hitherto prevading my temporary home; where our evenings had been times of mutual reminiscenses or narrations of individual experience in travels around the city.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>A view by lamp-light of the extremes of San Francisco life was one of my last experiences in the Queen of the Pacific as Californians love to call their chief city.  Climbing Nob Hill has an Alpine suggestion about it.  I had wondered how loaded wagons and fire engines in their emergencies mounted some of the built-up elevations about the city, but found it was by indirect, easier grades, and then descending the steeps.  My guide, who was a friend as well as a philosopher, took me to the heights where what is known as the Quality, with a big Q, live--when they are at home.  They were once the culmination of sand hills, bleak and wind-swept.  I recollect the pavements in the built-up approaches were made more accessible by steps at intervals.  The view from Nob Hill over the city, spreading far below and brightly lighted, was impressive; but the homes of the millionaires were more so.  A series of fine residences were around--homes, I would like to call them--costing their hundreds of thousands, each; and few but had grinning skeletons in their closets.  These rich people, and, as Dickens said, their greatest enemies could not deny they were rich, are human in their ways.  They are tempted and tempt; sin and are sinned against; and for their opportunities worse than the people around Chinatown.  About us were the palaces of financial kings; grown rich in railroading, manufacturing and speculation.  Some were empty; some occupied by servants; others might have had a portion of their belonging families inside their portals.  In the empty house how lonely must have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The road to Nob Hill's summit was toilsome; to our next destination, Chinatown, the way was as that to Hades; dead easy!  Who visits San Francisco and views not this locality is as one who goes to see Hamlet and misses the Dane, and, on his home-coming, is voted a traveling failure.  Its main feature can be seen in a mild form as groups of Christian Endeavorers saw it; as the salacious viewed it in its most repulsive phases, or as by passers along the open street, where night and day are seen abominations, such as received the warning curses of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The Chinese stores were remarkable for their varied displays and mercantile indifference.  The merchants do not seem to care whether they sell or not.  It was nearing midnight when we got among them; but they turn night to day in this city; particularly in Chinatown.  The curious drugs in the stores for warding off diseases; consisting of jars of unguessable things; looking like dried insects, pieces of snake-skins and animal viscera; as well as roots and herbs, and as if capable of either killing or curing, called our attention.  There were pigs and chickens ready roasted for the living, or the dead in their sandy beds near the Golden Gate, and dried abilone, dessicated duck-meat, flattened out like cod-fish; sharks-fins, skewered shrimps and duck-eggs preserved in oil, and suggestive of loud odors.  There were dried fruits and nuts unknown to us; ginger and other conserves.  Seeing all these things mentioned, and much more, we wended our way homeward; my mind full of the marvels of our evening stroll; not so my friend, who had lived too long here to wonder at anything.</P>
164.sgm:<P>I visited the Chinese quarter again, by daylight.  I noted the rich dresses of the wealthy, the comparative small number <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>I took a walk along the wharves, so different from the old style landings, where we travel-worn ox-drivers stepped ashore on Christmas, day 1858, after crossing the plains.  Here my comrade "Scottie" and I had wandered around hunting work, and here we debarked to cross the Bay to seek our fortunes.  Many memories crowded on me as I looked over at the plains and mountains of Contra Costa where we began and continued our wanderings.  A huge landing-house, where all travelers by sea and the continuous railroad lines North and South disembark, takes the place of the old Oakland Ferry.</P>
164.sgm:<P>I give an illustration of the Plaza as I saw it in 1858; then the main city park.  With neatly kept sward, tropical shrubbery and plants and graveled walks, the excursionists of '97, who thus saw the square, will not recognize the picture.  Grassless, roughly fenced, uncared for, it played its part in the early history of San Francisco, and was the scene of many a tumultuous gathering.  While it is so beautified from its old time appearance its surroundings are of the worst, for it is in the limits of Chinatown, with all which that name implies The elevation shown in the distance is Telegraph Hill; then isolated; now built around until its steepness becomes such that steps are required in the pavement.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The markets were a sight.  The profuse display was to be remembered, as well as the cheapness of the fruits and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:vegetables.  Boxes holding a bushel took the place of baskets in the East, for the solid fruits, while cherries, berries and the like were sold in flat baskets and boxes holding two or three quarts.  The production seemed unlimited and the market restricted so there could be but the one result; low prices.  Nothing is sold for less than five cents at the retail stands; sixteen peaches or other fruits for a nickel, when a penny's worth would stay the temporary hunger, was the rule.  <illus entity="a164-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OLD PLAZA--NOW PORTSMOUTH SQUARE--TELEGRAPH HILL IN THE DISTANCE.</P>
164.sgm:Why sixteen I know not; it might have been the number seven, which fits to so many things, or its multiple; or a dozen, or a score but it was the figures named; a "sixteen puzzle," truly.  From itinerant vendor to merchant on the high street, for all the dull times and keenness to trade, it was considered mean to sell or try to buy an article for less than five cents.  Some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>I will here name a disconnected fact.  In the early days of California, as a state of our Union, the mail service was so inefficient that private enterprise came to its aid.  This was the Wells-Fargo Express, which had more stations than there were post offices; consequently could reach more people.  As is known the mail department tolerates no opposition; being what's called a Monopoly; so Wells-Fargo bought stamped envelopes from the Government at three cents, and sold them at ten at the Express offices, thereby carrying mail-matter to scattered communities which otherwise would get it with difficulty.</P>
164.sgm:<P>THE KLONDIKE CRAZE IN SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
164.sgm:<P>It so happened that my wide-apart visits to California were in periods of gold excitements; one at the collapse of the Frazer River bubble; the other at the commencement of the Klondike fever; a febrile complaint whose only remedy is that used by Keely for a different form of the disease--the Gold-cure.  With the first event I was personally connected; if having personalities cast on me has that meaning.  When I first landed in San Francisco it was at a time when the disappointed gold hunters were returning by sea from Frazer River.  Like my companions I was, from roughing it across the plains, sadly in need of repairs; in fact we looked as if we had been run through a stamp mill with the process of washing the "results" omitted.  Individually I was barefoot except as that condition was modified by a pair of moccasins as soleless as the Popular idea of a corporation, and as I walked up the wooden wharf at San Francisco a juvenile hoodlum bawled out "There goes a Frazer River feller who had to pawn his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The show windows, before the gold excitement filled with samples of general merchandise, now displayed "Klondike Goods" exclusively.  Picks, shovels and gold-pans, jostled testing-tubes, mortars and pestles and other paraphernalia for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Every time I passed those windows the curious or interested in eager groups were looking at the contents; most of them wishing they had the necessary $500 to take them to the goldfields, while they commented on and criticised the goods.  The cartoons in the windows were home-drawn but attractive.  One I recall represented a Klondiker ascending a steamer's plank, dressed for Alaskan weather, and remarking in words, which floated in the air, whence he got his outfit.  Behind was the man who "did not think it would be much of a shower."  On his head was a straw hat, and his raiment, from linen-duster to low-cut shoes, was suggestive of summer.  In one hand was a flat carpet-bag; in the other a water-melon "done-up" in a shawl-strap.  On his face was that "pleasant smile," between a smirk and a grin, such as the photographer evolves from his patient.  Remindful of "before and after taking" was a companion picture: Scene--the summit of the Chilkoot Pass involved in a furious snow-storm.  <HI REND="italics">Dramatis Personae</HI>
164.sgm:; the man who got his outfit <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
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164.sgm:<P>The scenes in the offices of those who were getting up excursions to the new El Dorado were no less interesting, and full of sadness withal, when we think of the probable results of this wild immigration.  Here were schemers, apparently irresponsible, making arrangements with the gold-hunters to carry them thousands of miles on an ocean journey; over difficult passes and down icy currents of swirling lakes and rivers.  The listeners, with mouths agape, took in eagerly all that was said, in this strain: "Only twenty-five vacancies left; good grub and sleeping quarters; have to walk over the mountain of course; but the burros will carry your stuff; 1300 pounds apiece, if you want."  "Can you take a set of blacksmith tools?"  "Certainly; anvil, bellows and all"--this to an enquiring Vulcanite--"and I will personally conduct you."  Don't listen to what these "sissies" tell you about the dangers of a Klondike trip.  Some want you to cut down trees, and make portable saw-mills of yourselves for boat stuff.  Not if you go with us.  You will find the boats all ready when you get to the lakes, and you can step right in.  All nonsense about the cold and dangers of the Pass of the Chilkoot; been over it myself, lots of times.  These yarns are got up by the steamer companies who want to take you four or five thousand miles, when we can take you to the same place in half that number."  So the confiding Klondikers advance the required sum and start on their journey to be deserted, quite likely, long before their alleged destination is reached.  Sights like these were common and the results have shown broken contracts, disheartened passengers and much suffering.</P>
164.sgm:<P>A sequel to what I had seen and heard was the outfitting and loading of a Klondike steamer, with its varied freight.  One of these, the "Willamette," lay at the wharf near Market street and to see the busy sights within and without I hied me thence.  This vessel had been a collier and was being altered to a "Klondiker."  She was 340 feet long, 40 beam and 30 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>When I made a second visit the starting time was so near that policemen were guarding the wharf-gate to keep out all who were not Klondikers.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The freight was now loaded; that is the inanimate, and the pack-animals were being hoisted to the upper deck in cages.  These the mules and horses entered with comparative resignation.  Then the gates were closed, the lashings tied across the top, and at a signal the living freight went aloft; dazed and like Peterkin "wondering what it was all about."  The burros were contrary, notwithstanding their cited patience.  Seemingly from intuitive knowledge that in the cold regions where they were going they would soon end their days they kicked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Through delay in starting I did not see the "Willamette" off; so with confusion around her I left the wharf, as the shades of night were falling, to hear through the morning's paper she had parted her moorings later on and was now well on her way towards the Artic circle.</P>
164.sgm:<P>From scenes of high life on Nob Hill; low life in Chinatown; the rush and roar of Market street; the varied sights along the wharves, and the novelties and attractions of suburban resorts to the quiet of a Friends' Meeting was a change indeed!  Such a gathering would have been unthought of in the fifties, though I recall an appropriate event in my early visit which I narrate.  Going to the office of Sathers &amp; Church, then prominent San Franciscan bankers, to get a draft cashed, I could only identify myself by comparing the writing in a letter I had from my father with his signature on the draft.  This was insufficient and I was starting away prepared for a longer sojourn in California, when I was called back.  The firm had been thinking over my case when one of them said "I see by his style of writing your father is a Friend; that society is hardly known here; but what I know about it satisfies me to give you the money."  Now there are several Meetings of Friends, or those so called, on the Pacific coast.  That at San Francisco has been in existence fifteen years and is a welcome resort to the followers of Fox visiting that city.  The time of my home departure was on First-day and I went there in the forenoon.  After my weeks of continuous travel and mental strain the opening silence of the gathering was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The time had now come for making my second departure from California.  That I had an interesting and enjoyable time there goes unsaid.  It had been a wish for years, and one I feared would never be realized, to visit the scenes of my early wanderings, and now that it was gratified, though partially, I was ready to leave them.  My travels now would be on new ground, bare of associations as well as differing in appearance from that passed.  No more tropical trees and shrubbery.  The palm and the orange are left behind with the Land of Sunshine, and a familiar local nomenclature replaces the Spanish names of town, mountain and river, which gave them a sentimental interest and took me back, to California's days of romance.  I am now to go amid scenery scarified by mining and deforesting; now, as well as fifty years ago, full of agressive Americans, while that South of San Francisco was the land of <HI REND="italics">Manana</HI>
164.sgm:<P>My friends all homeward bound, I confess to a lonely feeling as I packed up my belongings; sending some of them home in advance, and then went among the ticket offices to arrange for my eastward transit; for there were routes to select from and agreements to be ratified there.  The business was not the most pleasant, for over questioning by prudent tourists had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE SOLANO--LARGEST FERRY-BOAT IN THE WORLD.</P>
164.sgm:<P>For the third time by rail where "Scottie" and I plodded along and we were soon at the straits of Carquinez, and crossing them on the monster ferry-boat "Solano;" so quietly we did not know when we left shore, were on our way through the darkness and up the Sacramento Valley, and again over our old tramping ground.  I could not help thinking of the two ill-clad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We got to Redding, a mining center, in the morning.  I found it an active place, on the shores of the Sacramento, with water-works and electric lights and stage-lines running in many directions.  Wishing to see gold-mining operations I took a four-horse coach for Iron Mountain.  The trail was the worst I ever traveled and in my overland journey I wagoned over some rough roads.  There were six to eight men in the stage; all miners, and though honest fellows not the best company.  They swore like my old friends and companions, the ox-drivers, and in a general way their conversation was not of the drawing-room class.  It was a long road; thirty-two miles there and back, horizontally and vertically; sharp grades and curves; narrow track and dust!  I can hardly describe it.  The Gaviote Pass, and succeeding grades were not in comparison.  Up the river the road was good; fair to Keswick, where the ores of neighboring mines are smelted; the tug of traces came afterwards.  The bed of Middle Creek had been washed for gold since the fifties, and from where we struck it, as it enters the Sacramento, to where we left it shows washes and rewashes; first by Americans, then by Chinese.  The hills were pitted and scarified by tunnels and hydraulic mining.</P>
164.sgm:<P>A cloud of vapor showed our approach to Keswick.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The Iron Mountain Company, owning this mine, was an English organization and its holdings included other mines, a railroad leading down to the river and the reduction works at Keswick.  The superintendent gave me an order to see what I wished to, but between the heat, dust and the fumes from the foot of the mountain, I was too near "done up" to avail myself of the kindness, and hunting a shady spot waited anxiously for Charlie's going.  I much regretted the turn affairs had taken, but I was glad when we were ready to start down the mountain, with four passengers; two of them a man and wife.  The man was a miner; his wife a laundress, whose dusty "wash" we had seen out.  They were going for an outing to a son's claim on the Trinity; fifty miles away, and were making it a practical pic-nic, as along with their bedding and cooking utensils, they had pick, shovel and pan along--a California affair throughout.  The woman was plucky.  Though suffering with a felon, which had made her content to leave her laundry in her daughter's hands, she held to her post, literally, while the stage rocked and surged, without ever an Oh, my!  The man rode with Charlie; marital politeness being honored in the breach rather than in the observance in these mountains.  Soon away we went.  I was going to say "crack went the whip round went the wheels," but I believe I have said it before.  "Round went the whip, crack went the wheels" sounded more like it; as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:grays let themselves out, under Charlie's stimulus, and tore down the dusty way.  We swung, we rose, we fell on our bed of leather; until the old saw, that there was nothing like it, came to our senses.  Sometimes we were on three wheels, sometimes on two, and sometimes it seemed as if we were as aerial as Mahomet's coffin.  But my mining <HI REND="italics">vis-a vis</HI>
164.sgm: said that was the way with Concord coaches; but they always came down right, like a cat.  Once we met a similar, and a rival team, but, by backing a ways, we let it by and all went well.  It is interesting such times to note how each driver considers the down-hill side of the road the post of honor and with what courtesy he asks the other to take it in passing.  A glance down the hundreds of feet below induces this Chesterfieldian politeness; for there we saw great possibilities of ground and lofty tumbling.  All the while the woman picknicker showed an absence from stage-fright, and a serenity, which her felonious finger scarcely marred.  This came natural to one like her, who had crossed the plains at ten years old; when Indians were Indians, and bears and mountain-lions growled and fought as was their nature to, and the wolf's lone howl came at night from the prairie.  The husband, for all his stage-manners, was considerate in his way; for at Keswick, he got her a glass of beer, while he made up for the wear and tear of tissue on the "grade" with something more manly.  The speed of our descent soon brought us down to the sulphur and arsenic strata, and a lung-taste of the vapor made us understand how the poor smelters in the works below coughed their lives away.  Again we were on Middle Creek, whose shores and hill-sides, scarred and rent, seemed in mute protest against man's greed for gold.  We changed horses at Keswick and leaving that sun scorched collection of shanties, and sham-fronted buildings of higher pretensions, soon came in sight again of the bright waters of the Sacramento.  On this stream I saw the two extremes in modes of placer mining, or washing gold from beds of streams.  Near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>At the Redding suburbs our picknickers got out at a friend's to await their son's coming from the Trinity, and where a "strike" was soon after made which I hope they shared.  They had quite a formidable "outfit," which Charlie passed down to them.  I had a genuine invitation from the miners to accompany them on their outing, but my limited ticket and time made me decline it with thanks.  We soon, under Charlie's guidance, whose motto was to save the gallop for the journey's end, drove to our hotel, which I left the next morning on our way North.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Our route was still up the Sacramento Valley.  Another gold-dredger took our attention and the river shores and beds of hill-side streams were rent by the claws of the gold demon who, like some fabled monster, had scratched and tunneled and smote the forest until the face of nature was unpleasant to look upon, and whose sulphurous breath fumed from the smelters.  Around here there is much litigation among mine owners about water rights; resulting in injunctions and shutting down of mills, cutting of dams and tapping of pipes.  A mining country is not a land of peace; for when the companies are not fighting one another they joust with the farmers who resent having their land covered with their washings.  The river grew narrower and banks wooded.  Now and then abandoned saw-mills showed themselves; their roofless, bleached frames representing the skeletons of dead corporations.  Near noon we saw Castle Crag, a remarkable turreted rock surmounting a hill.  We passed several cultivated patches along the narrow valley; the abiding places of "squaw-men"--whites who had married Indian women.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:A man who would be content to live here would be satisfied with a squaw-wife.  At Shasta Springs, where there is a hotel, a fine cascade comes down the rocks.  <illus entity="a164-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOUNT SHASTA.</P>
164.sgm:The timber grows larger and saw-mills again appear; the logs coming in wooden flumes around the hills.  At Sisson we sighted Mount Shasta, a noted land-mark, near 15,000 feet high.  The summit is fifteen miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We were now rising Siskiyou Mountain.  By heavy grades we made an S, and slowly reached the top through a tunnel.  Had I not been sated with grand sights I would have been awed with the scenes around me.  Mountains on a level with us and spreading valleys far below!  The system can only take in so much, and the mental digestive apparatus revolts at more.  We saw the trail from Yreka to Goldburg winding over an adjacent range and a four-horse stage coming down the slope.  The first name recalls a baker's sign in that town in the long ago, which, lettered "Yreka Bakery" read back and forth the same; so with open work, it could be utilized coming up or down the street.  The timber about us was white and red pine and fir, manzanita and madrone.  The foliage of the last showed glossy leaves, green and yellow, and the red berries glowing between made it a beautiful tree.  There were large alders in bloom.  The farms we were now passing looked home-like with a growth of timothy; the first grass of the kind we had seen since leaving Nebraska.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Humanity, in its different phases, was again prominent in our day-coach; more so than in the Pullman, where it was more evenly graded or there was more repression used.  With us were the well to do as also the needy; for some were prosperous Californians on a visit East and who were used enough to hard knocks to not mind six nights sleep in a car seat.  The closeness of one eastern tourist, who boasted of his wealth, was amusing.  His meals were doughnuts and the fruit of the country passed through; the dry food moistened by coffee from a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>There was another character; an Oregonian youth who had the distinction of owning two living fathers and as many mothers with sisters, cousins and aunts in proportional quantities.  The parents were all divorcees.  The young man talked familiarly of his quadruplex parentage and each individual <HI REND="italics">causus belli</HI>
164.sgm:.  He seemed a sort of go between among the warring factions, although he expressed a preference for his own individual mother, whom he had just visited, over his father's late venture.  He was lately from the mines, where he had got so used to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The excuses for nagging in such families must be many in comparison with those in the East, where the husband can only allude to his mother's cookery and the possible superiority of some former sweetheart's; but here, in the far West, he can remind his third or fourth matrimonial venture of the extra bread-baking attainments of his first, second or third wives as well as those of his mother and previous flame.  The capabilities of turmoil in such a household are fearful to contemplate.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Society in the extreme west seems on shaky foundations--in some sections, at least.  Between free and easy divorce laws; Mormonism spilled over the borders from Utah, and allowed mmoralities there is great need of moral disinfectants.  Another young man in our car was an example of <HI REND="italics">ennuyed</HI>
164.sgm: life--unless he was playing me for a gullible tender-foot.  With a father assessed at $15,000,000 he had wandered the wide world over, seeking a remedy for the presence of "Consumption's ghastly form" which had siezed him and devoured one of his lungs.  From his Wisconsin home he had gone to Oregon, where he spoke of his investments in townships of valuable timber lands as if they had been quarter-sections; then to Florida where he reveled in the ownership of orange groves, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>My fellow passenger's conversation did not absorb all my attention.  It was dark without, but distant mountain fires assumed proportions grand, indeed; though valuable timber was going up in smoke.  Two tall trees--pardon the alliteration--which were ablaze looked like immense candles for the mountain altar rising darkly above them.  At another point, where we halted, the dry timber crackled until we could hear the burning, while the sky was lighted as if a volcano was in irruption.  Two mountain elevations could be seen on fire at the same time.</P>
164.sgm:<P>At Albany was an agricultural exhibit on the station platform, and whenever a train-load of tourists halted for lunch a "literary feller" connected with the local paper was ready to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We dropped our entertaining passengers as we sped along; the cynical, cosmopolitic consumptive, and the wandering miners.  Just after passing the California line, and near Salem, Oregon's capital, we left the multi-parented youth.  We parted with the windy Economical-scientist at Portland.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The scenery and vegetation showed we were in a section where there was an abundance of rain the year round--the Siskiyou mountains seeming to mark climatic bounds.  The moss on the ranch roofs, the green grass and larger timber were in evidence, while stump-land made manifest a former wooded country.  We were also in a region of hop-fields and orchards; the last illy cared for.</P>
164.sgm:<P>To Portland on the Willamette, twelve miles from the Columbia, noted for its water-power and saw-mills, we came in the afternoon.  We ferried the river on the "Tacoma," a large boat on which the whole train was run.  The Columbia was a fine sight; in Bryant's early days under another name, when he wrote <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Where rolls the Oregon,<LB>Monarch of the hills and hears no sound<LB>Save its own dashings."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>But it now hears the plash of screw and padle wheel; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Our ferry-boat landed us at Tacoma where our route made a right angle--from North to East.  We left at 5 o'clock on August 5.  The "hoboes" who had been following us from San Francisco now left us; perhaps for the Klondike.  Their persistence was wonderful.  They rode on the trucks as on the outward route; jumping on and off as the trains slowed up or started, at the risk of their worthless lives.  I don't think the train hands cared to disturb them though so ordered by their employers.  How they escaped death was a miracle.</P>
164.sgm:<P>By morning we had passed prairie and forest, and were rolling over, what on our westward trip we would have called a desert, with a low range of mountains in the far North.  Villages of scattered, weather-beaten houses and "dug-outs" we saw now and then.  Grease-wood abounded in the wire-fenced range, and shallow lakes were seen in the distance.  These, when drained, make fine timothy land except, as sometimes happens, their bottoms are covered with moss.  Then came more cattle-towns with corrals and brown houses, where we could see round up "vaqueros" of the "Hair-trigger Jim" species, and now and then a real "blanket Indian," with long hair, turned-in toes and bowed out knees, and apparently ready for the stereotyped grunt, "Big injin me; want much firewater!"  At noon we passed a fine mountain lake--Pokolallah, and then rolled over a stretch of unsettled country.  A beautiful body of water was Lake Pen d'Oreille--Ear-drop--whose arms we twice crossed.  We were a half-hour along its borders.  There were rude houses on its shores and beautiful islands rising above its surface.  A little steamer plows its waters.  High mountains on its further shore make Lake Pen d'Oreille a thing of beauty and a joy while it is in sight.  At Hope, near its eastern end, we sat our watches an hour ahead.</P>
164.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We were soon on Clarke's fork of the Columbia, a rapid stream lined with high mountains, whose edge we wound along above the river's brink for many miles.  We came from its valley to a wheat country--the straw still green, although the 5th of August, and afterwards passed over large tracts of cattlelands.  We were now in Idaho.  In this section the descendants of Indian ponies, no longer needed, are getting to be as much of a nuisance as rabbits in Central California.  They are as wild as deer and only come from their mountain pasture grounds when they want water.  In so doing they meet barbed wire fences.  The leaders are young stallions; but like army generals they lead by pushing from the rear.  When the front ranks strike the cruel abattis of wire they hesitate, but hundreds of eager, thirsty horses are forced against them until the ground is covered with the wounded or dying; for all the world like the result of a cavalry charge.  It is in vain the settlers strive to keep these pitiful pests from their own horses.  A company is now being formed for their slaughter and conversion into canned beef for the European market.  They will pay one dollar and a half apiece for them.  When we think that the antecedents of those poor brutes were the war and hunting horses of the red-rovers of this land there is a pathos about the story.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The morning of August 6 found us in Montana, passing over a broad semi-desert plain with isolated mountains around it and a range, sharply serrated, in the distance.  The land was sparcely settled, and soil gravelly or swampy.  The houses and few buildings for the protection of stock in winter were roofed with straw or sods.  Many of the mountain peaks were white with snow; while the plain was in spots yellow with dwarf sunflower.  We at last came to a range of mountains, and tunnelling them, arrived at Livingston at 7.30 in the morning.</P>
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164.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>XIII.</HEAD>
164.sgm:<P>Around Yellowstone Park, and Home.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Oh! Land of lake and rushing stream;<LB>Of mimic mountains belching steam;<LB>Of "Yeast-pots" brewing odorous leaven<LB>And sulphur-pools which smell to heaven.<LB>Where Nature lies in primal state,<LB>Aweing or pleasing to the view;<LB>Where big game mock the hunter's lust<LB>And fishers tales are ta'en as true!<LB>We enter now thy realms so grim,<LB>To leave heads full and purses slim.</HI>
164.sgm:<P>AT San Francisco we were warned at ticket offices that you must buy these paste-board tokens at once for the Yellowstone Park--to go early and avoid the rush.  My experience has been, from side-show to grand opera, that those who have the money can get the cake always, and that knocking off the persimmon is only a question of length of pole.</P>
164.sgm:<P>There are three ways of going through the Park; with the Yellowstone Park Association, which owns four large hotels--it had a fifth which burned down--and one permanent camp.  Its conveyances number eighty-two four and six-horse coaches and three to four hundred horses, as the season demands.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Getting off at Livingston, the sea-port, as it were, of the Park, we found plenty who wanted passengers for their coaches.  This place is just half way between Saint Paul and Tacoma; 1000 miles from either.  From Livingston to Cinnabar, where the stages start, is a railroad fifty-one miles long, following the Yellowstone river and through canyons whose slopes rise 2000 feet from the water.  At noon we came to Cinnabar, a weather-beaten, verdureless place, but full of life for three months in the year from tourist traffic.  The coal mines and coke furnaces in the neighborhood lend it some importance.  Now there is a difference between drivers and cooks as to the origin of this town's name.  Some say, from the back-woods pronunciation of bear, that it comes from <HI REND="italics">skin-a-b'ar</HI>
164.sgm:; others, as well posted, say <HI REND="italics">seen-a-b'ar</HI>
164.sgm:; while others still derive it from a contraction of Cinnamon bear.  The name really comes from some streaks of reddish mineral on the side of a near-by mountain resembling Cinnabar; whence comes mercury.  Coming to this place, four of us made a bargain with an "Independent" to take us on what he called a 150 mile drive.  Our wagons numbered two; one for ourselves, the other for the camp-outfit, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>I don't want to dwell too much on the wonders of the Park.  The guide-books are full of them and lecturers have dwelt on them time and again; but I must say something, for the place is full of marvels.  Around the "Springs" there are many interesting formations.  There were "Liberty Cap," "Devil's Thumb," "Devil's Kitchen," "Minerva's Terrace," and numbers besides.  We climbed the Terrace, scalded our hands in boiling pools, sweated in the darkness of the Devil's cooking apartment, slid the "slide," also belonging to the same gentleman, and did other acts and things required of tourists.  One remarkable circumstance, considering the immense calcarous deposits, a hundred feet high sometimes, and the logical hardness of the water, was that when this water was cooled off it was good to drink.  The thinness of the shell, as shown by extinct springs, looks as if it must be dangerous near the pools, but we heard of no accidents.  Minerva Terrace was a grand affair in its semblance to a series of cascades suddenly arrested in their descent and petrified.  But it is not my mission, as I intimated above, to go into statistics or in raptures over scenery.  There is one thing ever changing, ever new--incidents along the route and I shall devote much of my space to them.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>Leaving the Springs we passed up a mountain road.  We noticed an immense amount of dead timber standing, leaning or down, caused by a fire which, nine years ago, swept for miles through these mountains.  The trees would have made good fire-wood but the Government, for its Posts, and the hotel company, for fuel and lighting, prefer to haul coal from Cinnabar at $9.00 per ton.  The hotels in the Park are electric-lighted and have all the conveniences of Eastern summer resorts.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Passing a portal called the Golden Gate, cut through the solid rock, we rode over a wooden causeway, projecting from a hill too steep to cut a road from.  The rocks were highly colored which arose above us.  For eight miles we went up a canyon; the rise being 2000 feet.  At an elevation of 7200 feet above sea-level we came to a mountain-circled plain, in the middle of which was Swan Lake.  We saw none of those fowls whose song is sweetest when dying; but there were ducks swimming on its surface; tame enough, for they had never heard the report of a gun, unless from some sneaking poacher, and the Government shows such scant mercy that such is rarely heard.  We soon came to Willow Creek, from whose surface we saw trout leaping, which set our sporting passenger wild for a chance to hook them.  He had just been tantalized by the ducks on the Lake; but shooting being tabooed his nature had to explode in another direction.  You can fish till you get tired.  There were deer all around us, but even if seen they were as safe as duck or swan.  Out of the fine herd of buffalo once in the Park but few are left.  Some are killed by poachers in remote corners, while many wander over the boundary to surrounding states and are mercilessly slaughtered.  Of about 400 of these harmless, picturesque animals, which it was thought with care might be perpetuated, but 80 remain.  Boundary stones are being closely set on the Park lines that hunters can have no excuse for trespassing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>It costs near $30,000 a year for the Government to keep its 150 miles of Park roads in order.  The spring floods wash them badly and the wood in the numerous bridges and hillside fenders is so perishable--mainly spruce--that there must be renewals about every three years.  Uncle Sam is certainly a careful guardian of his Park tourists' safety, as well as of his animal woards; a paternal uncle, if the bull is allowable.  For this the road-makers toil and the soldiers go their watchful rounds.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The July snows on the mountains, the sparkling streams coursing over the natural meadows or down ravines, the rapids and waterfalls, excited our attention as we went our way.  As far as was possible everything was in a state of nature.  The nation has reserved a portion of its broad domains, 60 miles by 70 in area, which man shall not disturb; whether he be farmer, miner or town builder.  The Park Association can erect necessary hotels and graze its horses on the natural meadows; but nothing more.  Mountain, valley and plain must be left as near as can be when Coulter, one of Lewis and Clark's hunters, saw the wonders of the Yellowstone about 1809.  His stories of spouting geysers, ponds of burning mud and steaming water condemned him as the champion liar.  It was not until 1871 that a general knowledge of the Park wonders were confirmed and justice done the abused discoverer; to change him from a Tom Pepper to a "Truthful James."</P>
164.sgm:<P>The land was withdrawn from settlement and reserved for public use under severe restrictions.  The incrustations around the springs must not be disturbed, nor any matter thrown in the vents.  Growing timber must remain uncut.  The killing of birds or wild animals is forbidden unless to protect human life.  Loose stock will be siezed if found; in traveling through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We encamped on the shores of Willow Creek.  Our cook had preceded us but had made poor headway.  It had been thirty-four years since I had experienced camp-life and here was I, at an age when its discomforts rob it of romance, trying it anew.  But it was more like my wild life of forty years ago when I looked at the snowy mountains, grassy meadows, wooded ravines and bright streams around me.</P>
164.sgm:<P>There were several camping parties about us, and the fires shooting through the darkness, the tinkling bells of the grazing horses, the laughter from the near camps and the cayote howls from the distant mountains were as echoes from the past.  The horses numbered thirty and were tired after their weary way over hills and through dust.  As the darkness increased I foresook my note-taking for a seat at the fire; the other passengers having gone fishing.  The mosquitos were plenty, though never mentioned in the guide-book--sort of thrown in for good measure.  Our fishermen returned with usual luck, and then came supper at last.  Ham, bread and butter, beans--Boston-baked--canned apricots, coffee--here was "richness" that beat Squeers' <HI REND="italics">menu</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Our first camp-meal was a disappointment.  The plates were tin as well as the coffee cups; the ham lacked flavor; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>For my fellow passengers; one was a retired Washington gentleman, the other two a Baltimore school teacher and his pupil--a Modern Mentor and Telemaehus on their travels.  Our driver was Jo Cain; a character.  He was about thirty years old, good-looking and well built and with a Mark Twain drawl which was natural but fetching.  He introduced himself with, "Think of the man who killed Abel and you will know how I spell my name; that is if you have ever read the Bible."</P>
164.sgm:<P>"There are bears"--he should have said "b'ar," to have carried out the unities, but he did not.  "There are bears around here," said Jo.  "I noticed where they had been clawing around our camp for grub; but they won't hurt you; stick their heads under the tent and nose round; that's all; no more'n so many hogs.  Then there's mountain lions; some folk's afeared of 'em.  They're cowards; a dog'll run 'em.  But wild-cats!  Zounds," (he didn't say zounds) "Look out for 'em.  Chaw and claw you up in a minute.  Do you hear them sounds from the mountains?  One's a wild cat; tother's a Ki-yote."  You wouldn't believe how smart a Ki-yote is; he's got more savvey than some white folks I know.  I've knowed one of 'em in the early mornin' to go one direction from a ranch and howl like sin, and have the dogs after him.  Then his pard would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We took turns riding along side of Jo, and a whole-souled, entertaining man he was; full of his experiences and acquainted with the Park from previous journeys; and with such a drawl!</P>
164.sgm:<P>That night we were treated to echoes of the last political campaign--the bi-metallic battle of giants.  The old saying that "speech is silvern; silence is golden" won't do now days.  The silent one gets left.  So our Democratic advocate of the yellow metal used his tongue; so did the Democratic upholder of free-silver, and they smote one another, hip and thigh, until the welkin rang and neighboring campers came to see what was the matter.  Telemachus and I held our peace.  As no one's mind was changed neither good nor harm was done.  The driver and cook, like nearly all people in that section, were for the white metal and plenty of it.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The next morning we passed Obsidian Cliff, a glass formation.  The narrow road was quarried out in a novel way that reminded me of Hannibal's engineering feat in his famous crossing of the Alps.  The obsidian formation being too hard to blast, fires were built at the base of the cliff and water <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We next passed some beaver-dams and the stumps from which the trees had been cut to build them.  The tops were gnawed in conical form, and some were six inches across.  Now Jo was as well versed in the ways of the lower order of animals as of men.  "Do you know how them fellers go about buildin' their dams?" said he, "well, its just this way.  First they fall a good-sized tree across the creek.  They know how to fall one just same as a wood-chopper.  You ought to see 'em walkin' round a tree, lookin' up and squintin' at the lean of it just same as a man, to see if it will drop right.  Then when its down they cut it off the right length; trench the ground at the ends and let it down.  Next they gnaw off stakes; lean 'em agin the cross-log and drive 'em in the mud.  Then they line 'em with brush and grass; plaster it with mud and that jobs done.  They build regular houses too.  Use their teeth for saw and jack-plane, auger and broad-ax; and their tails; they use 'em for trowels.  Once I seen a funny sight.  The young beavers wasn't workin' just to suit; sort o'shacklin', didn't seem to have no git.  What does the boss beaver do?  Paddled 'em with his tail, he did, same as a shingle.  I tell you beavers are curious things.  You darsent let 'em see you though.  If they do, ker-plunk they go in the water."  Now this might have been so or it might not; but, as he told it, this misnamed Cain's face was as bare of emotion as the Sphinx.  Two of these dams were called the Twin Lakes and from some cause had no fish in them.</P>
164.sgm:<P>We met several bicycles as we went our way; some ridden by women.  According to law all dismounted when a team was met on account of the many dangerous places where horses might get scared and accidents follow.</P>
164.sgm:<P>A belief in a personal devil seems to have prevailed with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Still emigrants traveling the old way, despite the Pacific railroads.  The fine National highways in the Park draw travel through it to adjoining states.  I saw one group on its way to California.  It had a special outfit in shape of a "house-wagon."  Girls riding their ponies man fashion; children and the aged in the wagon; loose stock; donkeys, horses and cows; all led, however, as the laws require, were sights to attract our attention.</P>
164.sgm:<P>At four o'clock we came to Fountain Hotel; one of the "Association" hostelries.  A unique feature was its being supplied with natural hot water by gravity.  The heat in the soil keeps up the temperature.  The style there prevailing; with <HI REND="italics">menu</HI>
164.sgm:, waiters and Concord coaches, was a rebuke to our humble rig, and the tableless, chairless, meals and help-your-self way of dining that prevailed in our camp.  But we comforted ourselves with Jo's assurance that, while the others were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:either missing out of the way sights or paying out large sums to see the same, we were taking them in gratis.  Black gravelly roads; periodically spouting geysers; foul smelling pools and vapor-whitened trees were characteristics of the journey.  We waited until four o'clock to see one geyser spout and were well rewarded.  While here we were again halted by a soldier for our names; reason, rocks are so defaced by signatures of tourists it was thought if these were recorded they would not be duplicated on the scenery.  It was the old story of <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Fools names, like their faces,<LB>Always seen in public places."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Around Fountain Geyser we saw the largest formations yet seen, and still growing.</P>
164.sgm:<P>We now passed to the Upper Basin.  This was circled by a low mountain rim with thousands of acres of verdureless plain spreading between.  Above this rose mound after mound, showing active or extinct geysers.  In some instances the formations were pulverized to dust by the stage wheels; in others they were glistening with the impregnated water running over them, while now and then we saw the eruptions which relieved the pressure underneath.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Passing to the south edge of the Basin we crossed the Fire Hole river and encamped in the darkness on the edge of a wooded hill.  We were beginning to find out that in addition to the extra rides granted us on account of our inferior accommodations we were to have some extra camp-life experience in chopping wood and carrying the same; or wait indefinitely for our humble fare.  We did not object so much to this on account of scarcity of wood, but of the dullness of the cook's axe.  We did not grow enthusiastic over our meals; canned goods, ham, bread and butter and coffee; which in the dim fire light were like Faith, the substance of things hoped for, but unseen; which we felt for rather than selected from observation.  For all that we were getting reconciled to our life and had quit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:envying those who slept in beds and had pie for dinner.  That night it was picturesque around us; the wooded slope; the surrounding camp-fires lighting up the night with groups of men and women around them and their <HI REND="italics">al fresco</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Our driver was a serious fellow and funny also; in his way of eating particularly.  Your <HI REND="italics">bon vivant</HI>
164.sgm:<P>But let's have some of his talking.  Jo's company more than off-set the luxuries of our fellow tourists, in their hotels and big tents, and with their napkins, tooth-picks and colored waiters.  "Talking about grit," said he; but he had not been; only thinking about it, like the rest of us; for we were working well towards the peck of dirt allotted to man before he gets his six foot of mother earth.  "Talking about grit, let me tell you about Jack Smith.  He was the grittiest man I ever seen, and I've seen 'em as full of sand as a gizzard.  I rode with Jack on the range in Western Newbraskey.  Jack's pard was a `greaser'--Mexican--tricky as sin, like the rest of them yeller angels (only Jo didn't say angels).  How Jack ever came to go in `cahoots' with him's more'n I can see.  Well, one day, on herd, they had a nasty quarrel, from callin' one 'nother liars, or cowards, or about a woman, it don't matter; all leads to the same.  The greaser afterwards, over a game of cards, made up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>"It was high fun for these fellers to guy strangers by shootin' off their hats, or at their feet to make 'em dance.  I once saw a gritty drummer watch his chance, jerk his tormentor's gun out of his hand and made him dance till he was tired.  I had my feet shot at when I was only thirteen years old, but they didn't skeer me."  Thus did Jo entertain, amuse and instruct us.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The 8th was spent until two o'clock taking in the wonders of the Upper Geyser Basin.  To see the dozens of gay Concord coaches and hundreds of passengers driving or sauntering around; to watch the different Geysers spout, or look at the many pools or formations was interesting.  We saw "Old Faithful" do his "turn," time and again; the Bee Hive buzz, the Lion roar and the Lioness and her Cubs do likewise.  We behold, the Cascade pour and the Castle beat off imaginary besiegers by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BEE HIVE GEYSER.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The road wound along through the woods on a grade that worried our half-fed horses, to whom Jo was a merciful man.  To our passengers impatient urgings, he would get up a little equine spurt; then tactfully let it subside.  At Keppler Falls we rested our beasts by inspecting this wild cataract.  It was a sight, and our horses enjoyed it as much as we did.  A striking object was Lone Star Geyser, which we left the beaten road to see, and rather enjoyed the knowledge that the "bon-ton" tourists were not taken there; such is man's selfishness.  "Lone Star" was a truncated cone ten feet high, from which at intervals came a seventy-five feet column of steam and water.  In this wilderness we found two camping parties; one of whom was fishing for a hotel; anyhow he said so; but he might have been a poacher.  He had a fine string of brook-trout; a part of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We left the Fire Hole by a new road which followed a small trout stream.  The ground was strewn with dead trees, while tall spruces and hemlocks towered along our winding way.  Those Evangelic lines beginning "This is the forest primeval," came before me.</P>
164.sgm:<P>There are boards every mile through the Park noting the miles and elevation; our last marked 8400 feet above sea-level; our highest point, and higher than the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains.  Thence our tired horses were forced to a trot on the down grade.  Jo told how he had driven six horses around such curves, and there was almost a smile on his stolid face as he spoke of the scared passengers.  It was now raining, and through the mists two of us saw bears up a ravine; but as two did not, our show of telling the home folks of the wild beasts we saw was poor; particularly as Jo's casting vote was non-committal.  At last we debouched onto a natural meadow, level and oval in shape, and circled by wooded hills.  Seeing a fire shooting through the mist we drove to it and found it was our camp.  And what a supper our cook had prepared?  It was too late to fry the brook trout we caught at the Lone Star Geyser; but he had ready for us hot biscuit, doughnuts, ham, fruit, jelly and coffee.  The cook--I never got his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>After supper we got a lot of wood, and building a roaring fire were soon dried off; the rain having well moistened our clothing.  There were four camping parties in the meadow, and our fire drew the individual members of them like moths.  Mainly these were government road-builders, prospecting miners and chance parties going through the Park.  They were typical back woodsmen, and it was not long before a heated discussion arose; commencing with a criticism on the ways of the people of the East, and ending with a wordy squabble among themselves.  The leading topics were gold, silver, women, anarchy, monopoly, socialism and labor unions.  They could agree on each until it came to the right to work if one wanted to.  Then the noise began, and I was glad when the motley crowd scattered.  Contact dissipates much of the glamour with which novelists, like Bret Harte, clothe their wild-west heroes.  In action they develop traits which excite a certain kind of admiration; but in repose, and their repose is of a lively nature, one marvels why they are here, and have not passed with the buffalo and other animals on the way to extinction.  Their talk that night was repellant to any one with a bit of refinement; sometimes so vile that swine if gifted with human speech would hesitate before its utterance.  These fellows have courage, and all that belongs to it in its lower sense, and in their pushing ways their cloudy lexicon may have no such word as fail; but, when it comes to the department of synenyms, virtue corresponds with hypocrisy; religion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The next morning the weather was clear, and saw the campers going their devious ways, and in advance of us.  Our cook again let himself out, and with flap-jacks and trout added to our fare, we enjoyed our breakfast.  We passed up Heron Creek over a fair road.  We looked in vain for the promised wild animals; but saw only squirrels; the talk of the past night probably had frightened them off.  As I said the government is doing its best to save the characteristic large game which once roamed the west.  The sound of a stray shot is heard around the Park, and is the signal for a hurrying to and fro to trace its origin, and when found summary punishment follows.</P>
164.sgm:<P>It was interesting to notice the spruce limbs, which were set slanting towards the ground from their winter loads of snow.  In Rocky Mountain fruit ranches the trees must be shaken when under the same covering, as the limbs would be broken.  Jo told us of these things, and fortunate did the passenger consider himself who rode with him.  His varied knowledge of the country; his many experiences and all-round good-heartedness made him acceptable company.  He was loyal to his team and section.  One horse had the heaves badly, but Jo would not admit it; "no hoss ever had the heaves in this climate; sort of cold; nuthin' mor'n azmey anyway."  He would rather buy oats, in that dear land, with his own hard earned money than his horses should go hungry; he would rather steal them.  Every night he would hunt up the best pasture; generally difficult, on account of the great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>From our last camp it was my turn to ride with Jo.  "You said you was from Philadelphy," drawled he," "I was raised on Lombard street.  Used to be lots of colored folks there.  I was a bad lot; wouldn't go to school, and full of mischief.  Me and a chum used to like to plague 'em in their church; turning bags full of cats loose among 'em, and the like.  My daddy give me no end of lickins but it done no good.  We moved first to Pittsburg and then to Newbraskey.  I was a bad boy still; fightin', breakin' hosses, and the like.  When I was about eighteen I most killed a man.  He played a mean trick on me; don't suppose he meant to, but he did.  I could lay out a man in them days without need of a gun; so the first thing he knowed he didn't know nuthin'; dropped like a cold wedge.  I thought he was dead; didn't come to for four mortal hours.  I was frightened and quit fightin' after that.</P>
164.sgm:<P>"I had a sister who was tryin' to fit herself for a school-marm; but her money run out.  Now I was dumb; couldn't take learnin'; but I was bound my sister should have an education.  I was workin' as stable boss for a miner, up to Butte, who also run a saloon.  Work was slack and boss said I must tend bar; all he had for me to do.  All my savin's went to my sister and not wantin' her to leave school I concluded to work the rum-mill.  Now as you see I'm neither a preacher nor the son of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We were driving along a dangerous road.  "If you ever git upset," said Jo, "jump out on the lower side of the coach.  Most people scramble up hill when she goes; all wrong.  I suppose in case of accident the Association would be more responsible about damages than us; but if you're killed what difference does it make; but their drivers are not much account; make a great flourish when they start from the big hotels, but when it comes to rounding a pint or holding the tongue hosses agin a curve they aint there.  You may get no damage if I upset you; but I won't upset you."</P>
164.sgm:<P>While ascending Heron Creek, at a point about half way from Upper Basin to Yellowstone Lake, we had a fine view of Shoshone Lake, a beautiful body of water; mountain rimmed and fringed with timber.  It is off the line of travel and about it large game may be found; buffalo, elk and the like.  In its efforts to save the Bison the Park officials built a stockade for them here and kept them fed; the heavy snows, however, filled the corral so deep and became so packed that the animals got out and wandered away.  What preserved the buffalo in its natural state was its freedom to move at will from north to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>From a point on our route can be seen, on a clear day, the Three Tetons; isolated peaks 14,000 feet high; remembered as landmarks in my old atlas.  Our ride was for awhile uninteresting, when suddenly there burst on the view the waters of the Yellowstone Lake; noted as the highest in America of equal size.  The absence of settlements, nature unadorned or unmarred by men surrounding it, adds to the interest.  Our approach recalled the lines:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The traveler,<LB>As when, lone wandering in a tangled wood,<LB>Shade after shade that scarcely lets him pass,<LB>He comes on reedy fen or spreading lake<LB>Rimmed with the shade of trees that fringe its brink,<LB>And hails the glory of the wave and wood."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Our camp was on the "Thumb," an arm of the lake, so called from it being one of three shore indentations resembling fingers of a spreading hand.  Here is a canvas lunch station where the Park Association people stop.  While they sat around their tables and gorged the inner tourist with delicacies, we, a few yards away, partook of our canned goods and were happy; Jo eating his "layer-courses," as usual; between whiles drawling forth an anecdote, information, or words of dry wit.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Our camp was amid "formations" of hot water springs and miniature mud volcanoes, which threw pastey splotches at the onlookers, to the detriment of their clothing and at a risk of scalding them.  These were disagreeable features of the shore line.  By the edge of the lake I saw a washer-man dipping water from a pool so hot that he had to cool it with one-third <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>From the "Thumb" passengers go two ways to the farther side of the lake; by steamer across, or along shore by the same stages they came in.  The water fare is $3.00 extra.  The steamer was named the Zillah, after the mother of Tubal-Cain.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The Vulcan of old time,<LB>Of sword and falchion the inventor claimed"--</HI>
164.sgm:<P>as our difflcult parsing lesson quoted.  She, the steamer, was brought here in sections.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The freight rate from Cinnabar, alone, is $15.00 per ton to the Lake; so the Zillah cost a pretty penny by the time she was launched.  The Captain was a popular man, which means being all things to all men.  He could fight his battles o'er again with war veterans; was an all round ladies' man; fencing off too close attentions, however, by telling them he had a dear little wife at home; while he hunted with the hunters, and fished with the fishers.  He had a small hatchet to grind, however; having boats and fishing tackle to hire out at the end of the journey.  It was interesting to see men, children of a larger growth, keen to make contracts for one dollar an hour for boats, tackle and bait; to find before sunset that between fractions of hours, at each end of the time, broken hooks and extra bait, their bill was five dollars.  And then the Captain would allow the women to "take tricks at the wheel," and show how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The engineer was a professional hunter, and I don't know how many contracts were made with him for outings the coming fall at high figures; hundreds of dollars per month.  The state of nature surrounding us seemed to strike some of our tourists silly, and made them imagine themselves Nimrods, with a calling to destroy; but the contracts were doubtless forgotten as soon as the spell was off.</P>
164.sgm:<P>While waiting for the starting of the steamer I was amused and annoyed by the actions of a young man who was fishing from the lower deck.  He was one of those overgrown spoiled boys; sometimes allowed to run at large.  The trout were contrary and avoided his professional casts; which came nearer hooking the clothing of the onlookers than the intended victims.  To help him out his father, from his vantage ground on the upper deck, made repeated suggestions.  These the son bore for a while in scowling patience, until, provoked at last, he let out on his parental advisor, to the latter's mortification and the disgust of the spectators.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The ride on the Lake was an event; its bright surface, its islands; the rim of hills and bleak, notched mountains beyond, and the little Zillah, with its chattering or absorbed passengers, churning through the disturbed water made it so.  There were silhouettes on the uneven horizon, resembling a sleeping giant and other objects, which the Captain showed us, and which we all saw, or pretended to see, which did just as well.  At Frank's Island we disembarked to see what we were informed would be large game running wild.  It was nothing more than a one-horse, or rather six animal Zoo; two buffalo, two elk, a fawn and a mountain sheep.  The Bisons did their part to entertain; pawed the ground and roared; but the rest were tame, wild animals.  The mountain sheep was a sickly affair; but they had a fence about him twenty feet high to show his capacity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>As soon as we landed at the Lake Hotel our sporting passengers commenced putting out in boats to fish for trout, and came home at sunset satisfied with their luck, but grumbling at its cost.  The bears which come from the woods in the evening to act as scavengers around the cook house are the hotel attractions.  Several of these we saw prowling around and it was amusing to see the mother of two cubs hustling them away towards the woods as we approached.  Some of the bears were large; one would have "dressed" 300 pounds or more.  How these fellows would have been in their homes I don't know; but they were harmless here; as Jo said, "like so many skeery hogs."</P>
164.sgm:<P>Our camp was in a grove near the Lake; I could not have conceived a more picturesque place; the waves rolling up the beach and receding; the hills and snow-clad peaks beyond the far shores, and the woods about us, with camp-fires lighting up the gloom.  Belated fishing boats were homing from the Outlet and wild-fowl were flying and screaming over head.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The other members of our coaching party got in after dusk with a fine catch of trout.  Our cook had expected to outdo all previous efforts in his line that night.  The biscuits started <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>"You've heard of people comin' West to grow up with the country," drawled my companion, after arranging the fire; "well I growed up independent of it.  Comin' at ten years old, with but three weeks' schoolin', I naturally took to the woods and prairies.  To go out in company with some hunter or herder, or to run with wild fellers of my own age, was better than goin' to school; even if there had been one near.  Breakin' broncho colts or lassoin' young steers was my delight.  I once put a girth on a colt; bucklin' it so tight as to make him buck.  Now that comes as natural to a young broncho as pie does to me.  The colt I was teasin' started by puttin' his head down between his fore legs and then sashyade up and down until he was strained beyond mendin'.  Now the only part of schoolin' my daddy took stock in was the gad; so when he found how the colt was he larruped me round the corral till I was done up.  But I paid my daddy back one day; we always was havin' it back and forth.  I let him mount one of the wust bronchos we had, makin' believe I'd broke it.  He come out wuss than I did.  A rough way to use a feller's own daddy, you say; well it's all in the bringin' up of the boy!</P>
164.sgm:<P>"Ridin' on the cattle range and `bustin' ' bronchos was my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>"My main business was bustin' bronchos for a hoss raiser.  For this I got fifty dollars a month, and five dollars a head extry for each hoss I broke.  One day my boss fooled me into mountin' a mustang which he said was all right, I had a "spoon-bit" bridle, one that'll conquer any hoss if nothin' breaks.  The bit came out of his mouth just as I drove my spurs in for a start.  That hoss seemed then to be possessed of a devil, and bound to have his revenge.  Such a joltin' no man ever got.  He bucked and run until I `thought he'd never let up on me.  If I'd had sense I'd got off at the start.  When they found me I was carried home half dead, and so crippled I'm afraid to look at an ornery hoss; let alone ride one.  That means I'm done with the range and I tell you, with all the risk, you hanker after it.  So I cut off my hair, took a reef out of my hat-rim, and here I am; drivin' a pair of old baits that's got no more spunk than a yoke of tired oxen, instead of bustin' the worst bronchos, or lassoin' the wildest steers.  I hate to think it, but I've lost my courage.</P>
164.sgm:<P>"But its a wide world, and if I can't do one thing I can do somethin' else.  As the Mormon boy, I'll tell you about thought, its bigger'n you think for.  When the railroad got to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>The Lake Hotel is a fine affair, for the country; with modern accommodation and a fine view of the Lake and mountains beyond.  It was now full to running over with tourists; the over-plus sleeping in large tents.  The rates are necessarily high on account of its cost; the material having to come so far.  But, while having water and an electric lighting plant, there was no barber, save a saw-bones, who run the engine.  His baited breath, dull razor, <HI REND="italics">garrote</HI>
164.sgm:<P>The next morning was a bright one, and while the cook, who was cross from last night's outing, was getting breakfast I took a saunter along the Lake.  The sun had supplanted the moon, which had so glorified the scenery the night before; lighting up mountain, water and shore.  Not a hundred yards out a big pelican was fearlessly floating, while smaller fowl were flying or swimming around.  The Lake was full of trout which now and then leaped from the water; while an early fisherman was seen rowing towards the Outlet.  Now who is this coming up the shore of the lake?  It is "Calamity Jane," for so she introduces herself.  Who about the Park, from tourist to road-mender and soldier don't know her; the Woman Scout and Female Spy for General Miles in his Indian war-fare; the <HI REND="italics">fille du regiment</HI>
164.sgm: in more than one campaign, though her age would suggest her as fitted for its matron; the all around adventuress?  In time of battle in front where bullets flew and tomahawks gleamed; in Peace's piping times in the rear; there was Calamity Jane; hale fellow well met with soldier or civilian!  Brevity loving mountaineers call her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>We broke camp at 9 o'clock on the morning of August 10th and struck the Yellowstone just below the Outlet.  Here are fine fishing grounds and a string of fifty or more of one to two pound trout are caught in an hour.  Our route was down the river, a swiftly flowing stream, full of fish which frequently leaped in the air.  We passed a party of emigrants; the women riding their horses man-fashion; the stock looking poor; and went near a game enclosure where a final effort is being made to save the big American game--Buffalo, Elk, Deer and Mountain sheep; whose last refuge is the Park.  The Bears are taking care of themselves.</P>
164.sgm:<P>On this part of the journey was the greatest amount of dead <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>There were fine broadenings of water along the river, and beautiful meadows.  At last we came to the Mud Geysers, the reverse of attractive.  Here from one crater, or cave, thirty feet deep, periodically rises a volume of foul smelling, lead-colored mud, which suddenly culminates in vicious splashes, from which the too curious get disagreeable reminders of their visit.  A dull roar accompanies these outbreaks.  The surrounding foliage was covered with a deposit from the muddy steam.  Hayden Valley, where the river widens before the canyon entrance, was a charming place.  Sulphur Mountain, yellow with "color," and surrounded with vaporing springs, has an odorous remembrance.  The landscape had made startling changes from the grand to the disagreeable.</P>
164.sgm:<P>We were now getting amid the wildest scenery in the Park--the Rapids and Falls of the Yellowstone.  The first swirl amid rocks and through narrow passages and soon reach the Upper Falls, where a 140 foot leap is made.  The next drop, 400 yards below, is 360 feet--figures which startle you till you compare the watery flights with the height and depth of mountain and canyon around them, when their grand consistency stills the doubting tongue.  The V shaped gorge zig-zags from side to side in a depth of from 1000 to 1500 feet; the sides tinted in brilliant red and yellow; the latter color so predominating that the region, lake and river, thence takes its name.  There is much to strike the eye, while the ear is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:greeted by the roar of the far-below waters and distant Falls and the novel sounds from the scream of eaglets in their rockcranny nests.  These can be heard throughout the day and their shrill, peculiar whistling will be remembered, and the lines of that old song of the Plains, in reference to the patriarch of the fleecy flocks of Darby, and his altitude of wool:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Which grew so mortal high<LB>The eagles built their nests there,<LB>For I heard their young ones cry."</HI>
164.sgm:<P>The Grand Falls of the Yellowstone are of course the great attraction.  Dizzy pinnacled heights are railed off where visitors can see them in all their grandeur.  One of these eyries is 1200 feet above the river; half of which height is of almost perpendicular, jagged rocks.  These views, after the manner of similar localities, are named Inspiration Point, Artist's Point, Grand View, &amp;c.  For the present the National road is diverted from the completion of its circle down the Yellowstone by great obstructions and turns off to Norris Basin; but it is in process of completion along the river to Cinnabar.  The Government is spending much money to allow additional wonders of the Park to be seen, as well as for the salvation of its animals.</P>
164.sgm:<P>A rain came on in the afternoon, but not before we had seen the chief attractions.  This sight-seeing was tiresome to pedestrians as well as horses, from steep paths and roads.  Jo, ever faithful to team or passenger, took us all around, fearless of curves, jutting points or heavy grades and brought us safely back.  His guiding hand and forethought were not all his fund of experience, anecdote and dry wit his three fares will remember; and so mayhap, will the reader.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Our camp was in a damp grove and from the rain our wood was in bad shape for drying clothes, cooking our ham and potatoes or frying our flap-jacks.  Our cook was wearing out; growing ill-tempered and was occasionally loaded down with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GREAT FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE.  YELLOWSTONE CANYON.  MUSHROOM ROCK.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>We had several camping parties of men and women that night in our damp halting place near the Falls.  They were of all sorts; sleeping in "A" tents or wagons, and with manners which collided with our ideas of refinement.  They were touring the Park, and most of them had followed us for three days, in wagons, and on horse-back and bicycles.  On land-travel women look at their best in Pullman cars, and in the parlors and dining-rooms of hotels, like those in the Park.  Traveling as these did, and seated around their camp-fires, sometimes in drizzling rains, and partaking of their rough fare, rough fashion, they are not an &aelig;sthetic success.  The parties seemed to enjoy themselves, however, and their style of traveling was their affair; not ours.  They left us the next morning and our parting was anything but regretful.</P>
164.sgm:<P>With our mattresses on the wet ground we passed our last <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>A pretty sight was Virginia Falls.  The rapids, above and below our road, paralleled until by an acute angle it diverged.  This is called Devil's Elbow.  In coming down the grade a few days since, from the lock breaking, a driver was killed.  Dead timber and stretches of meadow, with a military post on the margin, were features of this part of the journey.</P>
164.sgm:<P>Descending to Norris Basin we encamped on "Gibbons Creek," a beautiful stream winding through a mountain bordered plain.  Our faithless, nameless cook, who should have been in waiting, with our last open air meal in readiness, had passed on with his appliances; his Dutch-oven, frying-pan and coffee-pot.  A long deprivation of his regular fire-water allowance had made him mindless of whatever duty he owed us, and he had hastened onward his sorry team to Cinnabar, where he could quench his thirst; which surreptitious drinks on the way had merely whetted.  Drivers were plenty in the Park, but cooks were scarce; hence the independence of the last.  Jo, however, happened to have some left-over bread and a can of those tiresome apricots in his wagon; so by drinking in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>At this camp we had "swung round the circle" and coming sights had to lose their novelty.  How commonplace they grew as we resumed our journey.  It was even as too much quail on toast--we had seen it all and were disillusioned.  The pretty trout stream had lost its eddies and ripples; Obsidian Cliff no longer glistened; the beavers seemed to have been foolishly busy in their creek damming; Swan Lake had dwindled to a duck-pond, and the Golden Gate post grown dumpy; while the Rustic Cascade was but a common waterfall.  The Gardner Canyon was a tame affair to the Yellowstone Gorge, and the "Eagles Nest" no curiosity after the eyries of the Grand Canyon.  As for the Mammoth Hot Springs, which had so impressed us; when we saw fresh tourists climbing from point to point; from Minerva Terrace to the heights above, we felt like Dickens' custodian of London Tower, who chuckled over the fools who daily climbed the high stairway, instead of resting at the foot as he did, on a comfortable bench.  We pitied them; toiling and sweating up the slippery heights at the risk of breaking through the treacherous crust, and, falling into some future Devil's Kitchen, their remnants to lend it additional interest to succeeding tourists.  As for our coaching party, the boredom of continuous enforced companionship was upon us; and even Jo, our faithful guide, and of course philosopher and friend; his status was working towards the general common-place level.  Quadruplex pumping had run his well of information dry, so that it was irresponsive to the stroke, and the novelty of his character was wearing off; but by a supreme mental effort we lifted him into his proper place; so that our parting was measureably consistent with our expectations.</P>
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164.sgm:<P>But don't let the reader misapprehend.  Our cynical feelings were temporary, and to be changed in near-by time, when the conditions of body and mind became normal; so we could truly say of the Yellowstone Park that there is not its area in American of equal sublimity and interest.  Its eruptive wonders; its mountain scenery; its falls, lakes and streams and its untamed wildernesses will forever be held in our memories!</P>
164.sgm:<P>Again at Cinnabar.  A ride to Livingston, and we were on the through line eastward.  But what is this stream that goes meandering, wallowing across the weed covered plain?  Is this uninteresting, low-banked river our "airy-fairy" friend of the mountains; an ever delight?  It is even so.  Well, if the "Big Muddy" is the Father of Waters the Yellowstone must be the son, and if the comparison is not irreverent, the prodigal son.  Its career certainly resembles his.  A pure childhood in the heart of the Rockies, a quiet youth on the bosom of the Lake; the start of a noble career at the Outlet; a pastoral life around the meadows of Hayden!  Then come the effects of bad company, when the neighborhood of the mud-slinging Mud Geysers and mal-odorous Sulphur Mountain is reached; a rapid career, ending in successive down-falls at the Canyon, from which, like Lucifer, it could never rise!  Next a low career on the plains leading to the Missouri, where it falls on the bosom of that stream.  But as it never left the Father of Waters my simile has no legs to stand on; so we will let that pass, and, leaving metaphor, attend to facts, which, though mulish things, are more instructive.</P>
164.sgm:<P>While waiting in the dark morning hours at Livingston for the east-bound train; sauntering back and forth, in time-killing efforts, I came across one of the interesting characters frequently met with in the far West.  This was a young man out of work and ready for it in near by mines or far away Klondike.  He was intelligent, and in a burst of confidence told me his tale of woe.  Coming west to grow up with it, he had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>For 350 miles we followed the Yellowstone, until at Glendive it passed into the Missouri.  The country along its shores was poor; stretch after stretch of pasture lands fenced with barbed wire and covered with sage.  The houses, on ranch or in village were of sod and log.  The ride was uninteresting, so entertainment had perforce to come from the passengers.  And varied these were; from children on the mother's lap to aged men and women.  These last were mainly Californians on their way East, and I thought they felt worse, after vain efforts to get sleep in their uncomfortable seats, in the morning than when in youth they crossed the plains and crept from tent or "prairie schooner" to greet the sun.  Naturally they never complained and were full of reminiscences.  One old gentleman had just revisited old scenes and it was interesting to hear him tell of his efforts, after so long an absence, to locate the scenes of his long ago successes and failures in the mining country, among abandoned tunnels and placer washings.  I felt a fellow-feeling for him, when he told of his efforts to find those he once knew; nearly all "over the range;" scarce one to recognize him.</P>
164.sgm:<P>The country improved as we neared the Red River Valley, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>At 6 o'clock, August 13, we reached Minneapolis, and the next day was utilized in visiting the large Flour and Lumber mills of that place.  St. Anthony's Falls are 45 feet high and from these come the power which makes the city prosperous and rich.  The Pillsbury Flour Mill, "B," interested us much.  Here a turbine wheel fifty-two inches in diameter and sixty inches high, through a belt 250 feet long, 36 inches wide and weighing 2000 pounds, drives machinery which produces 6000 barrels a day.  A fund of information can be gathered here from persons whose business it is to show strangers around, and who are very obliging.  Most visitors feel relieved when, on offering their cicerone a fee at the close of the tour, they are told it is against rules for them to take anything but thanks--which cost so little!</P>
164.sgm:<P>Then among the saw-mills.  To see these hungry giants chewing forest-products would sorrow the author of "woodman spare that tree."  Six logs a minute come up the ways on an endless chain and three band-saws and one gang-set shred them to lumber.  Steam piston rods drive the carriages, and six cuts a minute are made through a sixteen-foot log.  These are handled automatically by pressing a lever, when huge cranes or jaws, swing around, or jump through the floor and without manual labor the logs are placed and started on their journey, to come out boards or plank.  In three seconds a log <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:is transferred, from the endless procession coming from the ways, to the carriage.  The different processes are seen from a high, railed platform and are intensely interesting.  The men ride back and forth on the carriages, moving the guides, and tossing the slabbed logs off to where they are siezed by huge calipers and placed three deep before gang-saws, which in a minute's time make them into boards.  These go forward on rollers, or sideways on endless chains, in a continuous procession of one a second to out-door sheds, where they are sorted as they go by, and loaded on cars to pass to the piling yard, or the planing mill; where the narrowest boards are made into flooring.  In the meantime the slabs are going in another direction; the best cut up into shingles, paling and lath; the refuse going to firewood, which is hauled away in huge carts.  Large towers, 80 feet high, are built to burn the surplus shavings and dust; but these are so utilized for fuel and the ice-houses that they are no longer used.  The saw-dust is almost like the fiber called <HI REND="italics">Excelsior</HI>
164.sgm:<P>In the loft, above the rush and roar, the saws are mended, straightened and sharpened.  I counted two hundred new gang-saws still unpacked; and as many ready to sharpen.  There were twenty or thirty band-saws.  These were fifty feet long, and have three hundred and fifty teeth each.  They are sharpened by machinery; being stretched on pullies, and pushed with a rachet under an emory wheel, which rises and falls as the teeth pass.  It takes ten minutes to go once around; although it requires from two to three revolutions to finish filing.  These saws frequently break, when an expert brazes the severed ends together; grinds the splice down evenly, and they are again ready for use.  The gang-saws are sharpened in the same manner.</P>
164.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<P>Thus are the trunks of the tall pines, which last winter made green the plains and mountains of the upper Mississippi, torn and slashed by the greedy saw-mills, which daily turn out 500,000 feet, each, of lumber; to say nothing of the bi-products.  The sight of this, to say nothing of the noise and turmoil, is a not inappropriate following to our other experiences.</P>
164.sgm:<P>From the saw and flour mills of the city to the urban beauties at Minnehaha is from prose to poetry, indeed! but we weary tourists made the journey in a perfunctory way; for we were sated with sight-seeing.  But to view the Laughing Waters is the proper thing, and when that can be accomplished at an expense of five cents in current coin and ten minutes of time my motto is, do it!  Minnehaha Falls is an enchanting and romantic spot.  I won't say the town children cry for it; but lovers sigh for it, and poets descant on its attractions.  But for us; fresh from the Wonders of the Yellowstone, with its Canyon, and Falls that dive to depths abysmal, while, amid sullen roar the vapors rise to meet the screaming eagles in their rocky eyries, our senses were sated with their glories.  It was a case of " <HI REND="italics">beaucoup de perdrix</HI>
164.sgm:<P>Now as the Yellowstone rushes down its Canyon, or as the waters of Ladore went their rapid descent, so must I hasten to my journey's end.  We went our way from Minneapolis the evening of our sight-seeing, and the next morning were in Chicago; at which point I had "swung round the circle."  Thence, eastward, I was on familiar ground and on the fiftieth day from my departure was at home.</P>
164.sgm:<BACK><DIV><AD><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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164.sgm:<illus entity="a164-0053" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>UP THE VALLEY OF THE PLATTE. FRONTISPIECE TO "A CALIFORNIA TRAMP." SHOWING "SALT LAKE EXPRESS" OF FORTY YEARS AGO.</P>
164.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
164.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
164.sgm:<P>"A CALIFORNIA TRAMP;"<LB>AN experience of travel across the plains and mountains of the farther West, and life in California forty years ago.  Large octavo, illustrated.</P>
164.sgm:<P> This is a suitable companion-volume for "California Revisited;" treating of life and modes of continental travel, antedating the Pacific railroads; and should interest those of this easy-going age.<LB>     Price $1.75, by mail.<LB>T. S. KENDERDINE,<LB>Newtown, Penna.<LB>     Price of "California Revisited," mailed free, $2.00.</P>
165.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-165</TITLE>
165.sgm:<TITLE>A journey to, on and from the "golden shore," by Sue A. Sanders: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
165.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
165.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
165.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
165.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
165.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
165.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
165.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-885 //r37</LCCN>
165.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
165.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
165.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>A JOURNEY</P>
165.sgm:<P>TO, ON AND FROM</P>
165.sgm:<P>THE "GOLDEN SHORE,"</P>
165.sgm:<P>BY SUE A. SANDERS</P>
165.sgm:<P>DELAVAN, ILL.:</P>
165.sgm:<P>TIMES PRINTING OFFICE,</P>
165.sgm:<P>1887.</P>
165.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1887, by</P>
165.sgm:<P>SUE A. SANDERS,</P>
165.sgm:<P>In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washinghton.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>TO THE</P>
165.sgm:<P>GRAND ARMY OF THE REPUBLIC</P>
165.sgm:<P>IN GRATEFUL MEMORY OF FOUR YEARS' STRIFE,</P>
165.sgm:<P>THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED</P>
165.sgm:<P>AS A</P>
165.sgm:<P>FEEBLE TRIBUTE OF AFFECTION AND GRATITUDE.</P>
165.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
165.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">My Dear Friends and Comrades</HI>
165.sgm:<P>In placing before you this Journal of my travels to, on and from the "Golden Shore," I would not for a moment that you should think I have come before the people as a public writer, or flatter myself with any such ability.</P>
165.sgm:<P>It is only through repeated requests and earnest urging that I have finally consented to its publication.  All whom I met in my travels, and all from whom I have heard since my return, have requested copies of the Journal, and several have offered liberal inducements to insure its circulation among the excursionists to California.  And now, as printed matter, it becomes the property of my friends only, to whom the composition is freely given, with a charge only to insure the necessary expenses of printing.</P>
165.sgm:<P>And should it accidentally fall into the hands of critics, I ask, in return for satisfaction gained, a copy of their first effort, as a companion piece to mine.  And if my friends to whom this journal is dedicated, think my efforts have paid them for the reading, a postal card acknowledgement of their estimate of its real value would undoubtedly make a fine collection of varied opinions to insure its circulation through the Old World; but if, on the other hand, my readers are not satisfied of value received, they will please return their copy to these headquarters and in return receive an appropriate chromo.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Fraternally, in F. C. &amp; L.,</P>
165.sgm:<P>SUE A. SANDERS.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Delavan, Ill., June 1, 1887.</P>
165.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Delavan, Ill., July 24, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>After a day of excitement, consummating arrangements, gathering, packing and locating trunks, satchels and lunch baskets, greetings and good-byes, we leave our home at 5:30 p.m. in company with our family, a few neighbors and friends for the regular passenger train on the P.,D. &amp; E. R.R., which is to start us on our journey to a country never seen before but one we have longed to see, one whose noted scenery has been the pet object of our life.</P>
165.sgm:<P>The day has been extremely warm, the thermometer standing at 95 degrees in the shade, making our Pacific traveling dress a little too comfortable for a Illinois July climate; yet half smothered we arrive at the depot and find many friends waiting to extend the friendly grasp and wish us a happy journey, and safe return to home and loved ones.  Among those who gather with us to part to-day, we find the most of our dear old B. D's, whose faces, to us, are always sweet, and whose memory we ever cherish as dear.  We take them all by the hand and reluctantly say "good-bye;" last we kiss the baby lips of our darling Bernie, and the train moves on and we are borne from home scenes and many kind friends.  The conductor notes our long faces as he gathers tickets from Mrs. Abbie A. Newman, Carrie A. Briggs, Julia C. Schureman and ourself, and turns twice as he passes, wondering where we four women can be going to have such sad faces in the possession of Peoria tickets, which insure passage to a place, that, to so many, seems a Jerusalem in itself.  The parting scene, to many, seems gay, and perhaps it is to a certain extent, for the side jokes are many, and hilarity generally prevails, yet we feel a sense of loneliness that we never experienced before, and as the train flies over the prairies, we sigh for relief that the parting scene is over and the good-byes all said.  Thirty miles are soon made and we step from the train at union depot, Peoria, Ill., where Mrs. M. A. Mann, J. B.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Schureman and Briggs register at the Peoria House, Mrs. Newman is met by, and escorted to the home of Mrs. Duncan, and we join our friend, Mrs. Mann, who makes us very welcome in her comfortable home, 111 Flora Avenue.  Mrs. Mann and myself spend the evening, to a late hour, talking over O.E.S. and W.R.C. matters, which on this occasion seem to be foremost in our minds.  The night is warm and sultry, yet we at last sleep, and dream of scenes from shore to shore, in which strange and familiar faces come and go alike, and morning brings no cooler breeze than that by which we fell asleep, when the clock on the mantle down stairs struck twelve times and ushered in</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday Morning, July 25, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>After a night somewhat restlessly spent, we awake in sunlight, finding no change in temperature, but a sultry, oppressive atmosphere around us.  A cup of fragrant coffee refreshes us, and gives new strength to think of a long journey about to begin.  We spend the most of the day fanning hot air into our face, while Mrs. Newman attends church and Sunday school and declares she is very comfortable, (yet we don't believe it.)  Mrs. Briggs and Schureman pack, unpack and repack their lunch baskets and satchels to make room for a large "angel food cake," which has been donated for lunch on this occasion.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mr. and Mrs. Simpson, of Peoria, call to see us and remain until the hour arrives for us to meet our party at the C.,B. &amp; Q. depot.  Bidding our friends good-bye, and excusing them from accompanying us to our train on account of the extreme hot weather, we take a car and are soon with our party of four, who arrive ahead of us and form the acquaintance of our big brother Ed. and his wife, who now become two of the six.  Tickets are secured, trunks checked, lunch baskets unchecked, sky parlors in the sleeper obtained, a few honest thoughts expressed to a party of gentlemen who would invite four ladies to accompany their party on a long excursion and assign them all sky parlors, (Hopkin's choice of berths in a sleeper,) a few gentle reminders of courtesy and gallantry of Peoria excursionists, and we are ready for a start.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Having all our lives been used to climbing, and knowing that to attain "we must grasp the branches, not the blossoms," we accept our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:lot just as amiably as possible, and declare the General Agent, tall, slim and lithe, a very nice sort of man, easily persuaded to give the very best accommodations to those who get there first, whether they <HI REND="italics">come</HI>
165.sgm:<P>Satchels, parasols, hats, canes, &amp;c., well stored away, we are finally well settled for our journey in the sleeper, "Panama," which follows an engine out of Peoria at 5 o'clock p.m.  We now have the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the "Panama" party who are to travel together to the Pacific coast.  In our autograph album they register as follows: Mr. and Mrs. B. S. Meals, Mrs. J. Miller and daughter Daisy, Capt. John Reardon, Maj. Chas. Quallman, James C. Dolan, Mrs. Troyer, Mrs. C. W. Tripp and daughters Myrtle and Mina and little son Henry, Miss Etta Proctor, S. D. Lawder, R. Rouse, Mrs. F. Bell and daughter, little Marcia, all of Peoria.  E. M. Pike and wife, of Chenoa, Ill., Wm. Wiley, of Hanna City, Ill., Jas. Copes, F. Krutch and M. S. Conger, of Rose Hill, Ill., and Mrs. Sue Amsbary, of San Francisco, Cal., besides us four from Delavan, who make up, considering none of them are over possessed of beauty, one of the livliest as well as ugliest parties that ever crossed the continnent.</P>
165.sgm:<P>At Knoxville, Ill., we welcome to our number, according to a previous arrangement, Mrs. S. M. Bradford, of Pontiac, who becomes congenial to all our plans at once, and we judge her in full, by the size of her lunch basket, even if her satchel does bear the mark of our State Penitentiary.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We arrive at Galesburg before dark, where we are set on the sidetrack to await the coming of the Headquarters train, which arrives in due time, filled with a jolly set of old soldiers, their wives, daughters and friends, who each and all join in the good cheer of the occasion, which expels at once the thoughts of a weary journey, and makes us buoyant with hope of a very pleasant time.</P>
165.sgm:<P>As we walk up and down the platform we find our train has been well decorated, especially the Headquarters car, and we are here introduced to Mr. A. C. Cole, the decorator of the train, and at once make him see the importance of giving special attention to the appearance of the "Panama," which bears the choir of the Illinois G.A.R. train, for already they have raised their voices in song, "There's a Land that is Fairer than Day."  We hear the cry "All aboard," and away we go on our journey.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We next turn our attention to our lunch baskets.  The porter adjusts the tables and we select from each that which best suits our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>But here comes the conductor for our tickets, and behind him a little black-eyed man, tastefully attired in a suit of black, who, with a handful of checks, strings, keys and pencils, calls for our sleeper tickets.  He looks at us and seemingly takes in our dimensions and wonders how we ever expect to ascend to our upper berth.  We look at him too, just as pitifully as possible, and ask: "Is there no remedy?"  His sympathetic smile is enough and we allow him to pass on.  Later there may be a remedy, but there is nothing but hope in perspective.  Our big brother, Ed., finally proposes and we exchange quarters.  He occupies our berth and we sleep down stairs.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We are constantly detained by hot boxes on the cars so that we do not reach Burlington, Iowa, until 10 o'clock at night.  As this is the nearest we have been to moistened breath as we cross the "Father of Waters."  Evening gone we dodge our turn for the dressing room, don our crinkled Mother-Hubbards and retire for the night; but restlessness and groans soon prove that there are more hot boxes within than outside the sleeper.  After sweltering some two hours in a hot, dusty berth, we hear the call for water from our big brother.  We hasten to his assistance in part recompense for his having accepted our sky parlor.  He drains the cup, and now the cry comes from all quarters, "Me too," and as they reach their long fingers through the parted drapery to grasp the welcome draught we feel that they can but always bless the "Relief Corps" who came to their assistance so early in the journey, and we are amply repaid for our trouble, by having such an opportunity to exemplify the principles of the order which we are going to California to represent.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mr. Pike is not only troubled with heat but the ants in his berth prove a great annoyance, insomuch that he groans aloud, and wonders "where the ants' nest may be," but the cry comes from all quarters.  "Put him out if he don't keep still."  Having refreshed the party with water, and our heart with charitable acts, we at last fall asleep, and the train rolls on through Iowa, where rain is known, and </P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday Morning July 26, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We awake much refreshed, cool and comfortable.  We await our turn for the dressing room and are ready for breakfast at Creston, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Here we meet an old soldier, from Illinois formerly, by name Geo. Austin, Co. G, 30th Reg't Ill. Vol., now a resident of Nebraska.  He hands us a list of all the Illinois soldiers who reside in that state, and as he speaks of the past and bids us good-bye, tears fill his eyes, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>As ours in the Headquarters train from Illinois, and as it is generally supposed that Logan is on this train, we are met at all stations by bands of music and crowds of people anxious to see the great hero, and while glad of the chance to see the people as we pass through the country, we can but feel sorry at the disappointment that prevails when we tell them Logan went another way.  We accept their endeavors, however, as best we can, smile on them for Mrs. Logan, and then rally our forces and sing those songs which thrilled the hearts of veterans when our country was in danger, and which still echo the sentiments of every true patriot.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Arriving at Sutton, Nebraska, a large crowd assemble and bring a lovely basket of flowers for Logan, which is accepted in his name and placed in Headquarters car, and from which we pluck a little leaf and flower for our collection.  As the sun is setting we arrive at Hastings, a lovely town, where, in a little park near the track, hundreds have come to see Logan, but again disappointment prevails.  As we stand on the steps, taking in the lovely town and surroundings, we are recognized by several who were friends of our sister Mary, who came here to live when first married.  We extend to them all the sisterly hand and answer all queries as to our sister, who must have left many warm friends here when she concluded Illinios was the better place to live.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Again we sing and on we speed, farther and farther west.  We arrive at Holdridge at dusk, where we take supper.  A very large crowd have assembled.  We are now too hungry to sing, but having refreshed ourselves with a nice supper, and walk upon the platform, we, in obedience to the command of Gen. Post, our Department Commander, do sing, and as the train leaves the city the strains of music echo east and west from the voices of those who stand on the train and at the station.  This is the jolliest crowd we have met yet, for they all seem happy and full of genuineness.  At 9 o'clock we arrive at Oxford and again the scenes of the day are repeated.  As oft as we are met so oft we give them cheer.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Twenty minutes are spent here in song and exchange of cards.  The cry is "All aboard," and now we are off for Denver.  Just before retiring for the night our little manager of the Pullman company <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday Morning, July 27, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We are awakened by an armful of sunflowers being tossed into our berth, fresh with dew, from the prairies of Colorado.  We call the porter who adjusts the upper berth and devises a dressing room for our accommodation.  We don our clothes as fast as possible, pin a trio of sunflowers to our breast, and hasten to the platform to catch our first glimpse of the Rocky Mountains.  We breakfast at Akron, after which a very pleasant forenoon is spent riding over the rolling prairies of Colorado.  Little Marcia and Henry are extremely jolly this morning, making merry at a game of horse driving, a pastime so pleasant for children in general.  Our sister, Eunice, is sick all day with headache, and feebly reclines, while our friend Dolan, in the rear of the sleeper, constructs himself into a right-angle triangle and scowls because he must cough in place of talking.  The Major maintains his dignity and passes upon one of our party the greatest compliment of her life, which she accepts in the spirit it is given and herein records as sacred to the memory of the Major.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We are surprised as we approach Colorado's "fountain of youth" to find so large a cemetery, so well stocked with marble, for we have almost learned to think that people never die in Denver.  For the sake of the reputation of the city, it might be well for the railroad company to change its course, or the city to move their marble.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We arrive at Denver at 12 o'clock.  While looking after our baggage and checking our lunch baskets we are pained to learn that one of our party, Mrs. Amsbary, has lost her pocketbook (tickets and all) a fact we can scarcely believe since she professes to be so well posted in the tricks of traveling.  Yet such is the case and all of the gentlemen rush to the front to see what the matter is, and all retire as readily, save the Major and Captain, who render every assistance possible until the lost pocketbook is found where carelessly dropped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>We follow the directions of a burly hackman and carriage to the Windsor where we expect to find comfortable quarters, the Major having the entire party in charge, but upon a little investigation we find that the very best we can do is a sky parlor at $4 per day.  Having had considerable experience already in this line of accommodations we decide emphatically for a change, in which our immediate party and some fifty others acquiese, and we soon register at the Alvoid, a very nice place, "and let ourselves down gently on $1.75 per day." [Briggs]  To some members of the "Panama" party our change of hotels seems abrupt, and some think we have given them the cold shoulder, but this idea is farthest from our mind, for already we have become favorably impressed with all and their pleasantries have become so much a part of our own that a general good feeling prevails among all.  Our immediate party occupies rooms 39 and 41 second floor where we store our satchels, arrange our toilets, partake of lunch and start out to take in all that is of interest in the city of Denver.  First we must attend to our tickets and re-check our bagggage, for to-morrow we leave this road and continue our journey over the Denver &amp; Rio Grande narrow gauge.</P>
165.sgm:<P>At the depot among the ten thousand trunks and chests we claim and re-check our baggage, after which we come in contact with a whole regiment of conductors and ticket agents, all using their utmost endeavors to instruct and please us; while we query and quiz, fret and worry the poor men until patience almost ceases to be a virtue, yet stoic-like stand these modern Jobs, still explaining and repeating their answers to our many inquiries,  The only faith to which we cling after all is that which we have placed in our Pullman guide and Superintendent Johnson of the D. &amp; R. G. railway.  As much as we dislike to see Mr. Butler scowl we cannot blame him now for here comes a long, good-natured occupant of the "Michigan," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Transfer complete, and under the direction of Mayor Dolan, of Peoria, we take the street cars for North Denver which overlooks the city and gives us a fine view of Pike's Peak which we think we can reach in a half hour's walk but which is really twenty miles away.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Denver is a beautiful city of some 75,000 inhabitants, built mostly of stone and brick.  It contains the usual amount of fine buildings.  One in particular we are lead to observe, and that, Tabor's Opera House, the largest in the world, excepting one in Paris, France.  This building cost $850,000.  The County Court House occupies an entire block, with buildings and ground.  There are two large smelting works here, but we are told by a policeman that it will not pay us to drive there so we return to the city, while swarms of boys infest the cars with papers containing the account of the hanging of a man, which has taken place on an island in Cherry Creek this p.m.  We here learn that our Manitou guide, in order to see all in Denver, had hired an Irishman to carry him across the creek, on his back, to see the execution.  We visit many fine stores and invest in a few Colorado specimens, return to our hotel and dine at six o'clock; after which Capt. Reardon orders a carriage and we all take a most enjoyable ride around the city, returning in time to hear Logan's address to the multitude, but the hall is full for two blocks and we are unable to secure seats at any price; so we press forward a step at a time and are finally wound up in a dog fight, from which we are extricated with difficulty and return to our hotel to post our journals, enjoy a good night's sleep and be ready for Manitou in the morning.  We dream of varied experiences which have taken place already in a three days' journey.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, July 28, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>After a very warm and uncomfortable night, having been awakened twice to administer to our sister, Bradford, who is not well, and once to view Venus, Pleiads and Hyades, as they put in their lovely appearance in the eastern horizon, we rise at 5 o'clock and commence going through our satchel, preparatory for our toilet, which is finished in due time.  We are called by our sister in 39, who has come to the conclusion that false frizzes are a nuisance and has cast the same in the waste basket, and already we have her own hair beautifully frizzed on our lightning crimper.  Mesdames Briggs and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Not far from this place we see at our right another abrupt mass known as Anvil Rock, which one of our party declares she can reach in a three minute's walk, but which B. F. Funk says is eleven miles away, the fact of which we accept, since we thought to reach Pike's Peak by foot trail from Denver this morning before breakfast.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Already since we became passengers on the D. &amp; R.G. and call the roll of the jolly occupants of the "Panama", we find a strangeness <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:has crept in during our stay in Denver and that the general good feeling which so generally prevailed has received a <HI REND="italics">non plus</HI>
165.sgm:<P>Arriving at Colorado Springs a part of our company stop here, while the rest come on to Manitou, where we arrive at 11 o'clock a.m. Here we find hotel accommodations very scarce, so we stack our satchels and lunch baskets and content ourselves on the covered depot platform until our commanders, Dolan and Pike, return, having found accommodations for all at Hotel de Washeau.  Here we all dine together, after which carriages are ordered for an afternoon's drive in wonderland, and before quite ready to start we come near being swindled out of our carriage and guide, for just as we come down the steps of Wausheau a party of six gentlemen offer one dollar more than we have agreed to pay, and seat themselves in our carriage; but the vehemence of our man Dolan causes them to alight and our party take the places which they have secured and we set out for the most enjoyable ride of our life.  Mrs. Newman, Capt. Reardon, Mrs. Amesbary, Mr. Copes, Mrs. Bradford and myself occupying one carriage, Pike and wife, Mrs. Briggs. Messrs Dolan and Conger and Dr. Patten the other.</P>
165.sgm:<P>First we drive to Iron Springs along the course of Buxton's Creek flowing so musically over and around it rocky banks, viewing in the distance Cameron's Cone, Engleman's Canon and Gog and Magog.  At the springs we quench our thirst from the water which tastes like fermented liquor or effervescing drink.  Returning we next follow Fountian Creek up the Ute Pass, through Wild-Cat Canon to Rainbow Falls, which are said to be the most beautiful falls on the eastern slope of the Rockies, we descend some 50 steps and are seated on the tumble-down rocks in the mist of this lovely waterfall.  We gather a few leaves and flowers, take one farewell, impressive look at this picturesque scene, ascend to to our carriage, and are driven back by the gentle falls of Minnehaha and the cottage of Grace Greenwood, all the while viewing Pike's Peak in the distance and the mountains covered with snow.  Our guide makes himself remarkably interesting by his aptness of description and laughable jokes, illustrating Colorado farming by driving us to a "Mountain wagon tongue."</P>
165.sgm:<P>Next we are driven to the "Garden of the Gods," a place described and photographed perhaps more than any other in or among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>The Manitou entrance to this garden is really, though, what might be called a back gate, as compared with the east entrance to this wonderful place.  As we enter from the west we first see a mass of sand-worn rock, covered with New England evergreens, while at the left stands an immense rock, the smallest side down, on which is carved hundreds of names.  This immense mass, weighing hundreds of tons, is so evenly poised, on a very small point, that it is well named "Balance Rock."  We almost tremble as we pass, for fear this wonderful rock may tumble.  We again pause for a few specimens of leaves and rock in memory of the place and turn to gaze with admiration on the Garden which lies in the valley beyond, and the east chain of mountains which rise to protect this sainted spot.  A very pleasant road meanders through this garden, and, as we ride along over this comparatively level ground, we are astonished at the promiscuous piling up of rocks which remind one very much of a child's playhouse in a rocky New England state.  In fact it seems that, instead of nature, human hands have placed these rocks, of varied hues, in the places they now occupy.  And as the domicile of man has never been planted here, nature's solitude remains unbroken.  As we ride along through this world renowned "Garden of the Gods," we are pointed to certain rocks, by our guide, which we at once see, resemble the following living or inanimate objects.  We note them as follows: Sea Lion, Lion Head, Irish Potato, Sailor's Capstan, Porcupine, Lizard, Horse's Head, Alligator, Toad, Bee-hive, and the Grundy family.  Having looked the old lady and gentleman Grundy squarely in the face we pass around behind them, where a back view presents a facsimile of the Siamese twins; next comes the Eagle, Duck, Frog, Lady-in-White, Elephant, Painter's Pallet, Seal, Bear, etc., etc.--in fact images too numerous to mention.  At last we approach the eastern gate-way of this garden, a spaceway some fifty feet wide opens <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>While in Echo Canon we look back through this marvellous gate and view Pike's Peak and the signal house on top and snow-lit summits below.  A little farther on and we stop at Hartigan's restaurant for a rest and refreshments.  Here we find milk, buttermilk and lemonade, of which our party and many others partake freely.</P>
165.sgm:<P>While sitting on the porch viewing the scenery which lies around us, carriage after carriage filled with tourists pass by, among whom we see the occupants of the "Panama, whose faces are aglow with delight at the wonders of the garden.  We see the sweet faces of Myrtie and Mina, and little Henry waves his baby hand; and to all we extend the grand salute as brothers and sisters from all parts of our nation taking in the sights of wonderland.  Next we visit the gypsum beds, from which we select a fine specimen for our cabinet; then onward to Glen Eyrie and Palmer's mansion, which lie between the Ute Pass and Queen's Canon.  Here we came in full view of an immense obelisk, known as "Major Domo," and formed of the same red sand-stone as the gates of the garden.  It rises solitary and alone to the height of three hundred feet, and has a swell on top which excels the lower part of the shaft and makes the whole structure, in appearance, outvie the leaning tower of Pisa.  Beyond a seeming rough stairway of rock we view, among them, Gen. Wm. J. Palmer's residence, which is in exact finish and unison with nature's beauties, formed in this rugged canon.  Here, also, we see a beautiful playhouse, built of logs and twigs in rustic style, where the children may be happy.  And now, being filled with enthusiasm, we break forth in song: "I love thy rocks and rills, thy woods and templed hills," when lo! in accordance to our unanimous desire, between us and Pike's Peak there gathers a real thunder storm, and we are obliged to lower our curtains, turn Mrs. Amsbary around, cover up our driver with the cushions and place Mr. Copes edgewise on the back seat, where he becomes, at this time if never before, a great inconvenience.  A little peppering of hail merely adds to the merriment of the occasion for a jollier, happier set of tourists never rode <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>So we arrive at "Wausheau," hungry as usual, where we all drink tea together and talk over our afternoon journey, through scenes which seem as mimicry of the awful convulsions which sent Pike's Peak 14,000 feet Heavenward, and opened canons which we drive through and pause to admire to-day.  As we hear from our party located at different hotels and lodgings, they are, most of them, between the hours of 5:30 and 6 o'clock, found doing a little washing, notwithstanding the rules and regulations, tacked upon the doors, prohibiting the practise.  Washing strung upon the curtains and lamp brackets, we all start out to see the beauties of Manitou itself, through which winds a street 80 feet wide, fast becoming a magnificent thoroughfare.  In the center of the village we find the largest of these natural effervescing springs, enclosed in parks.  The first is in a rustic pavillion called "Shoshone.  Very near is another called "Navaho," and but a few feet from this "Chalybeate."  Across the street is Manitou Spring covered with a spring house, joined to a bazar where are kept specimens and relics of all kinds.  This spring has a rock curbing, around which a small boy walks all the time, dipping of the mineral draught for many who taste and turn away, while many come to enjoy.  There are nine of these springs at this place all of which contain waters of different chemical qualities, viz: Carbonates of lime, soda, magnesia and iron, and sulphates of soda and potash, and chloride of sodium.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We stroll by starlight, down the sylvan path, through Lovers' Lane, to the park, pausing as we cross the many rustic bridges, which span the gurgling stream, to listen to the music of the waters we may never see again.  The different hotels and all the specimen stores are visited, and just as we return to our hotel for the night the caravan of donkeys come in from their trails with a multitude of tourists, tired and worn, who lazily leave their saddles and limp to their lodgings, while the wee little animals drop their heads and seek their homes to renew strength for the morrow, when again they must carry the anxious tourist to the highest summit.</P>
165.sgm:<P>And now while we write we are seated around our table with one little miserable, smoky lamp, posting our journals, and friends, and putting in the press the many leaves and flowers we have gathered since our arrival in Manitou.  Our lunch baskets are all repacked, Mrs. Amesbary escorted to solitary quarters, the "lunch basket riot act" read, Capt. Reardon furnished with needle and thread to secure his buttons, Pike's pants rehemmed.  Newman's drapery adjusted, Briggs' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday Morning, July 29, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>At 7 o'clock we are ready for transportation, having already become used to traveling by sections.  Our friend Dolan arrives at Washeau just in time to extricate and secure the numerous lunch basket of the "member in solitary quarters," thereby causing her to add to her list one more gentleman in the Panama party.  Brother Pike scrambles to the platform just in time to reach the train, having slept at the foot of Pike's Peak and been delayed by waiting to see the sun rise over the summit.  The same train that is to bear us away from this enchanted spot brings our gallant Logan and his noble wife, who take us by the hand, with cheery smile, glad good morning and friendly grasp, and we step to the train and are now again comfortably located in our narrow guage sleeper, "El Moro," on our way to new sights and scenes farther on toward the setting sun.  Five miles are soon made and we are at Colorado Springs, where the rest of our train party are in waiting to join us.  Little Henry and Marcia come dancing on board as light and fresh as the morning, and we again welcome these little lumps of sweetness and innocence, for two better children never traveled over the "narrow guage."</P>
165.sgm:<P>Miss Etta Proctor, of Peoria, remarks as she comes on board with hat in hand, and a bouquet of sunflowers and golden rod pinned to her bosom, that this car suits her very well if it is only long enough, while Mrs. Troyer responds, "If you have any width to spare please pass it this way."  As for us, we need both, so shall have to divise ways and means.  Our friend Funk and wife attempt to be very neighborly and occupy the same seat, which they succeeded in doing by both sitting at the same time.  "Little West Virginia" has become much attached to our car, and receives a warm welcome as an "orphan boy" going to California, as a delegate-at-large, to represent his state in National Convention.  Our train decorator is on the alert, stringing his bunting and tassled badges, thus giving the general idea that all on this train are members of the G.A.R. or W.R.C.  Our Department President looks as bright as a new dollar, while her husband declares she shall go to the top of Pike's Peak if he has to carry her there, and Josephine appears in trouble now, for she is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>At 8:30 we are all aboard and again on our journey.  The forenoon is spent in riding through a beautiful valley, along the base of the eastern Rockies, in the bed of the low, flat Platt river, fringed with cotton-woods, and Pike's Peak in view for many miles until lost in nearing the summits of other peaks, where sunshine rests, while shadow prevails elsewhere.  We arrive at Pueblo Thursday morning at 10 o'clock, where we look around for a few points of interest for our journal, finding that this is a city of some 20,000 inhabitants, known particularly as a railroad centre, and the Bessemer steel works, among the largest in America.  Here we are accosted by a tourist, whom we have never met before, asking if we are the "Bible woman;" if so, we are wanted on the platform.  This being the first knowledge of the epithet thus applied to ourself, we make a little investigation and find that we have been thus named in consequence of always carrying a copy of a congressional report in which to press leaves and flowers for our herbarium; and now we are called to see and note in our journal the facts of a section of a large tree, lying on the platform, eight feet in diameter and 380 years old, the largest we have ever seen.  We note the same, walk up and down the platform inquiring of friends who reside here, join in the songs of the occasion and on to Canon City.</P>
165.sgm:<P>But here come the conductors again, looking after our general comfort, and already we have found genial hearts in these representative men of the D.&amp; R.G., for to the traveler there is no one who claims a place in the heart more than the pleasant conductor of a railroad train who is affable and pleasant in the discharge of his duty, and we feel particularly to thank the officers of this road for having the judgment to secure such pleasant men as we find in charge of our train, and now again we become the terror of our little Pullman man, who never scowls until he reaches us, and this time more than ever, for as he takes an upward look at that destined sky parlor of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>After leaving Pueblo we continue our journey in a westerly direction, along the valley of the Arkansas river, which has its rise 10,000 feet above the sea, but the elevation is reduced one-half in the first one hundred and fifty miles of its descent from the mountains, and now along its banks we begin to see immense plateaus, as if piled up by artistic hands, in all conceivable shapes imaginable, and we here pause to collect what few facts we know of geology, and assign these wonderful distributions to the fact of the Arkansas river's bed having once extended from bluff to bluff, and through time found many different bottoms.  Right or wrong in our conjectures, the remarkable geological formations are very interesting to us, for nature's forms, in whatever shape, are by us always admired.  The railroad men call these deposits "sand butts," so we presume this is the right name for them.  The scenery grows grander and more scenic as we near the grand canon, around and through which our little narrow guage safely wends its way, until we reach the Royal Gorge, the narrowest place we have to pass through in Grand Canon.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Having crossed a little bridge suspended from the granite walls on either side, our train stops in this wonderful place that all may have an opportunity to see the far famed granite walls of Colorado's majestic canon.  On all sides, from every car, the passengers came out like a swarm of bees, and settle upon the immense rocks over which rush and foam the cold waters of the Arkansas.  A few specimens are gathered by many, we secure a small piece from the granite wall which rises 3,000 feet to our right and beneath, in a little eroded rock we gather a few tiny weeds for our collection.  A large, admiring, happy party sit upon these tumbled down rocks and bathe their hands and faces in the foaming waters and one soldier actually <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>The sound of a shrill whistle which sends rings of smoke heaven ward warns us to "all aboard" and as we leave this majestic place we see above, tons of rock which at any moment are liable to fall, causing death and destruction to all before them, and we feel a sense of thankfulness that each revolution of the wheels carries us nearer the end of what might be considered a very dangerous place.  And now we have passed through "Royal Gorge," a place we may never see again, yet we here note in our journal wonderful, wonderful place, and close our eyes to form a picture in our mind which time cannot efface.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Full fifty miles we follow the Arkansas river, rushing over boulders and mountains of rock, on all sides the mountains covered with low shrubs, sand and snow.  As we approach Salida the scenery becomes less wild, the most of the time presenting a landscape of knolls covered with evergreen underbrush.  In the mountains after leaving the Royal Gorge, a heavy storm prevails the most of the day, which occasionlly comes near enough to give us a slight sprinkle, and which in the distance we much enjoy.</P>
165.sgm:<P>High in the crevices of Grand Canon we see in the niche of a rock, what the porter tells us is an eagle's nest, the like of which we have have never seen before.  It seems to be built of sticks, long weeds and heavy grass, but the distance above us is so great we cannot vouch for the material of which it is built.  It is enough for us to know that we look upon a real eagle's nest.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We arrive at Salida at 2 o'clock, p.m., a picturesque town of some 3,000 inhabitants, situated 7,000 feet above the sea at the junction of the Leadville branch of the D.&amp; R. G. railroad.  Here, just beneath snow capped Rockies we stop for dinner, and here it is that our friend Funk immortalizes himself as the man of strong lungs, for the "Monte Cristo" waiters are a little slow in attending to his order, which causes him to raise his voice in tones of thunder demanding attention.  The ladies tremble and gentlemen cling more closely to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We return to our train, which he are told must now commence the ascent of the Rockies proper.  While availing ourselves of a good dinner the train is being arranged to carry us over the mountains.  It is divided into two sections.  The first is composed of one engine, a baggage car and the "El Moro" sleeper, of which we are an occupant and which takes the lead in the ascent.  The second is composed of six sleepers and three engines, which puff and toil behind us, often lost from sight by diversified ridges, valleys and rocks, which at times lie thousands of feet below and between us.  For thirteen miles, after leaving Salida, we ascend the mountains at the rate of 210 feet per mile, so inclined is the track at times that we see only the stack-pipe of the engine behind us, as it seemingly struggles to follow us upward.  We sit upon the back end of our sleeper in company with our party and endeavor to enjoy as best we can, that which lies before us.  The scenery grows more and more magnificent and less obstructed by mountain sides, so that to our view appears miles and miles of cone shaped summits and timberless tops of towering ranges, which show us that we are among the heights that must be familiar with the clouds.  And while lost in the wonders of the Rockies, we at times see the white sunlight shining upon the far off Sierras, which must be crossed before we reach our destination.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Onward and upward we ascend until among the clouds, we look back and down upon the other section of our train, whose merry occupants respond to our endeavors by waving hands and handkerchiefs until lost in woods, ravines and snow-sheds, "Darting forth at times from hidden view, like a child at play at Peek-a-boo."</P>
165.sgm:<P>The grandeur of this scenery so sublime, has melted some of our party to tears, for here are seen works of man and God, never witnessed before; and now at our right stands old Ouray, whose towering height stands between the head waters of the Arkansas and Gunnison rivers.  Slowly and safely the steeps are conquered and we stop at Marshal Pass, at 4:30 p.m., 10,852 feet above the sea, beneath and around which a rough granite ocean lies, around whose towering heights we seemingly see four lines of railroad, terrace above terrace, the farthest almost indistinct to our view, and these are merely loops of the spiral path which has brought us hither.</P>
165.sgm:<P>In the midst of our happiness scenes have occurred to-day which have made us sad, for among us there is one whose lungs are unfitted for this high altitude, and such has been the effects of the atmosphere upon her that at times her life has been dispaired of, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We sigh for the sick and leave her in the care of gentle hands and hasten down the hillside with the many to gather a bouquet in memory of this elevated spot.  From the side of the pass where our train stands we break off a piece of granite, and mark for our cabinet, take a little run to see how we can breathe two miles above the sea, and hurry back, for here comes the other section of our train, whose occupants are ready for a side-hill ramble among the rocks and flowers, and now as they alight, we join in that grand old song, "Rock of Ages cleft for me," etc.  The two sections of our train are joined and with one engine we now commence the descent of the mountains, and the scenery presented is as fine and picturesque as that which met our view as we climbed the top and rested at Marshal Pass.  On both sides of old Ouray, east and west, have been seen a multitude of little mountain steams winding their several ways over and through rocks and crevices, all going to fulfill each their part to help form the great rivers that flow through and water our prairie lands.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We descend the mountains alongside of the head waters of the Gunnison until we reach the city of the same name, which is famous as the headquarters of the Gunnison mines.  It is a place of about 3,000 inhabitants, and stands 8,000 feet above the sea.  Here, we have been told, we can get supper, but already the "El Moro" party have spread their lunch, and are only waiting for coffee at Gunnison.  We are at the point of deciding which of us shall get supper, when sister Bradford, who has been wrestling with her lunch basket for a full half hour, comes back and invites our party of six to take supper with her, the invitation of which we are more than glad to accept, so we select each our own knife, fork, spoon and cup, and avail ourselves of the generous hospitality, but for the sake of the profession we will never tell what sister Bradford found in the top of her lunch basket.  Suffice it to say, it was something akin to the penetentiary mark upon her satchel.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Just here Col. Distin solicits some of our excellent lunch, which we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>While standing upon the platform at Gunnison we hear parties talking as to the dangerous descent we must travese during the night, which has made some of our party a little nervous, but life or death, we are booked through, and now is no time to stop for thoughts of a better life.  Just as we begin to think of retiring for the night a call comes from the front car for the "El Moro" choir to join in an evening concert, to which we gladly respond.  The arm "scrap book" and "jubilee songs" are enjoyed by the entire car, which ends in a sort of an African revival, Col. Distin in the lead.  But the hour is late and we must begin to devise means and ways for a night's rest in our "narrow guage."  Dr. Pease of the "Michigan," a practical physician of Massilon, Ohio, exchanges sleepers and berths with a "Panama" party that he may watch the sick sister of our car during the night, and we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday Morning, July 30, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We step upon the platform while all are asleep and are told by the porter that we are now just crossing the Utah line, somewhat behind time in making this point.  While we have slept the train has moved on, ever bearing us over many dangerous and beautiful places, which the darkness of night has hidden from view.  Yet, in our study of the country over which we have passed at night, we find that after leaving the Black Canon we rode away from the Gunnison and climbed Cedar Divide, where by daylight we might have had a fine view of Uncempahgre Valley at our left and south and a full view of the celebrated Book Cliffs at our right.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Arriving at Delta we again travel along the valley of the Gunnison, continuing our route until we reach Grand Junction where this beautiful stream empties its waters into the Grand River that rises in Wyoming Territory, both going to help form the Colorado, which empties its waters into the Gulf of California.  Just before reaching Grand Junction we pass the Ute Reservation which was given in trust, so often betrayed by the tribe of Indians whose name the immense tract of land bears.  We continue our journey along the valley of the Grand until we come to the Utah line, and a new day of hot, dusty, disagreeable travel commences.  From 4 o'clock in the morning until nearly noon we are crossing the great Utah Desert, which forms a part of the great Uintah Valley, Green River basin, or the great geological tertiary sea, with the Uintah Mountains on the north and great canons of the Colorado on the south; and this is the valley where Prof.  Marsh has made his great discoveries of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>For a change of program we walk the length of the train and find the passengers generally quiet.  The ladies have their heads done up in tissue veils with lover's bows in front,  The gentlemen have pulled their silk caps over their wigs and assumed their dusters, and little Marcia has actually cried.  She knows not why, but nature can scarcely comfort a child when with the thermometer at 90 &deg; she must shun alkali waters and know not why.</P>
165.sgm:<P>The gentlemen have held many "secret sessions" during the day in the front end of our sleeper and in consequence of which, perhaps, our gentlemen do not look as thirsty as some we see in search of water.  Our Department President is sick in the "Malaca" unable to sit up.  The ride through the desert is too much for one so frail.  And as for us we seek a bottle containing the effervescing elements of soda water.  We visit the "Malaca" and Headquarters car and treat our immediate friends, who drink freely and seem to enjoy our beverage, insomuch that it becomes almost as popular as Peoria corn juice dealt out in broken doses at "secret sessions."</P>
165.sgm:<P>And now we have arrived at Green River, having come some one hundred miles since we left the Grand, through a rolling, uptipped desert, leaving the celebrated Book Cliffs on the north bank of the Grand.  Just after passing that point where the Gunnison unites with this mountain stream, we cross the Green river north of where it joins the Grand to form the Colorado.  The scenery now has a marked change, for we are approaching Castle Canon, and already in the distance we see two towering shafts of sandstone rising to the height of 500 feet as if to guard that country which lies beyond this "castle gate."  This canon is one of sublime beauty, differing in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Passing through the lovely gorge we are in the heart of the Wasatch Mountains, having just passed through Castle Gate, which much reminds us of the gate posts of the Garden of the Gods.  One post is four, and the other five, hundred feet high, both having been richly dyed in the hues of a setting sun, which forms a lively contrast with the evergreen shades which lie beneath and around the rocky columns.  Through this gateway the Price River and railroad pass side by side in close communion--the one, struggling over rocks and underbrush, as if to evade the power of steam which nears its maddened waters.  Now we are in the shadows of huge rocks which continue for miles on our journey.  Soldier's Summit stands at our right, a high prominence, solitary and alone; on, on, through the alkali districts, passing the Red Narrows and Spanish Fork canon, each and all characterized by beauty and grandeur, until we near Springville, Utah, where, for the first time during the day, we begin to see a little verdure and civilization.  Telegrams have announced our coming and here we find a good dinner awaiting.  The platform is full of both Mormon and Gentile children selling all kinds of fruit, flowers, boiled eggs, milk, coffee, etc., etc., and we supply ourselves for the rest our journey to Salt Lake City.</P>
165.sgm:<P>After leaving Springville we journey for many miles through the Utah Valley, lying circled by mountains as if guarded from the outer world, with Utah Lake in plain view, a beautiful sheet of fresh water near whose banks lie Springville and Provo, two flourishing Mormon towns.  This lake of pure, fresh water is almost shut in by the Wasatch and Oquirrh Mountains, a range of low hills lying between the fresh water lake and the great Salt Lake north of it.  At the south we behold Mt. Nebo, towering 12,000 feet above the valley with its snow capped summits, while at its base lies the verdure of a tropical climate.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Arriving at Provo we almost feel that we are again in America, for upon stepping to the platform we find a very neat little city of 5,000 inhabitants, regularly laid out with fine streets, houses, trees and everything to attract the attention of even an unobserving traveler, who has breathed a desert air for fifteen long hours.  We walk on the platform and breathe once more the pure, moistened air, gather some leaves and flowers, and interview the children as to schools, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Before leaving the train a list of the passengers on board is obtained which appears in printed circular the next day as follows:</P>
165.sgm:<P>HEADQUARTERS ILLINOIS DELEGATION,</P>
165.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">En route to 20th National Encampment G.A.R</HI>
165.sgm:<P>SALT LAKE CITY, JULY 31, 1886.</P>
165.sgm:<P>NAMES ON TRAIN.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Col. W. L. Distin, Quincy</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. W. L. Distin, Quincy</P>
165.sgm:<P>Miss Distin, Quincy</P>
165.sgm:<P>Wm. Distin, Jr., Quincy</P>
165.sgm:<P>Miss Dickason, Danville</P>
165.sgm:<P>P. S. Post, Dept. C., Galesburg</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Post, Galesburg</P>
165.sgm:<P>Miss Post, Galesburg</P>
165.sgm:<P>W. W. Berry, P.D.C., Quincy</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Berry Quincy</P>
165.sgm:<P>E. D. Swain, P.D.C., Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>T. W. Scott, A.Q.M.G., Fairfield</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Scott, Fairfield</P>
165.sgm:<P>Miss Scott, Fairfield</P>
165.sgm:<P>H. P. Thompson, A.A.G. Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Thompson, Chicago.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Clarence Thompson, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. A. A. Newman, Delavan</P>
165.sgm:<P>J. M. Copes, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>M. S. Cowger, Rose Hill</P>
165.sgm:<P>John Reardon, P.P.C., Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>H. C. Cassiday, Joliet</P>
165.sgm:<P>J. C. Dolan, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>Chas. Quallman, delegate, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>W. A. Martin, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. G. A. Busse, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>D. H. Gobin, Springfield</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. D. H. Gobin, Springfield</P>
165.sgm:<P>J. L. Hesser, Riverton</P>
165.sgm:<P>Robert Martin, Springfield</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Meals, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. S. M. Bradford Pontiac</P>
165.sgm:<P>E. M. Pike, P.P.C., Chenoa</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. E. M. Pike, Chenoa</P>
165.sgm:<P>B. W. Maires, Trenton</P>
165.sgm:<P>J. S. Litzenberg, Wilmington</P>
165.sgm:<P>C. H. Wells, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>H. H. Hunt, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. H. H. Hunt, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Clara Harral, President W.R C., Aurora</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Sue A. Sanders, Delavan</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. C. Briggs, Delavan</P>
165.sgm:<P>G. A. Dayton, Towanda</P>
165.sgm:<P>F. Taylor, New Berlin</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Taylor, New Berlin</P>
165.sgm:<P>A. Pease, Massillon</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Julia Schureman, Delavan</P>
165.sgm:<P>Edwin Lake, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>C. T. Barnes, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Barnes, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>T. McGinnis, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>James Galloway, Wilmington</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Galloway, Wilmington</P>
165.sgm:<P>W. V. Doan, Wilmington</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Doan, Wilmington</P>
165.sgm:<P>E. R. Campbell, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>Chas. E. Sinclair, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>A. H. Pike, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>Jas. Bryant, Towanda</P>
165.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>A. W. Burnside, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>H. M. Hooker, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>G. F. White, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. S. Stose, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. L. W. Sheperd, Springfield</P>
165.sgm:<P>B. F. Funk, del., Bloomington</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Funk, Bloomington</P>
165.sgm:<P>B. Funk. Jr., Bloomington</P>
165.sgm:<P>James A. Sexton, A.D.C., Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>C. F. Matteson, A.D.C., Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>G. A. Busse, A.D.C., Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>John Frith, delegate, Watseka</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Firth, Watseka</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. C. M. Tripp, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. J. A. Bell, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>Miss Myrtle Tripp, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>Miss Mina Tripp, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>Miss Etta Proctor, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. G. Miller, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>Miss Miller, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>R. Rouse, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>S. O. Lander, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>William Wiley, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>D. Meals, Peoria</P>
165.sgm:<P>Miss J. Cleveland, Springfield</P>
165.sgm:<P>J. M. Harral, Aurora</P>
165.sgm:<P>G. J. Cottrell, Quincy</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. V. L. Finley, Quincy</P>
165.sgm:<P>H. S. Scoffield, Burlington</P>
165.sgm:<P>R. T. Van Horn, Burlington</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. Van Horn, Burlington</P>
165.sgm:<P>J. S. Smith, Farmington</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mrs. H. V. Greenlief, Farmington</P>
165.sgm:<P>Mr. Amos Green, Farmington</P>
165.sgm:<P>W. Joseph and wife, Farmington</P>
165.sgm:<P>D. K. Watson, Clayton</P>
165.sgm:<P>J. R. Herring, Canton</P>
165.sgm:<P>Frank Funk, Bloomington,</P>
165.sgm:<P>S. A. Cole, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>H. B. Greenlief, Farmington</P>
165.sgm:<P>E. T. Martin, Kansas City</P>
165.sgm:<P>S. F. Shaw, Parkersburg</P>
165.sgm:<P>M. P. Schrock, Chicago</P>
165.sgm:<P>J. Clifton Butler, charge of train for C.,B. &amp; Q. R.R.; every detail carried out as promised.</P>
165.sgm:<P>E. D. Swain, T. W. Scott, W. L.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Distin, Com. on Transportation.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We arrive at Salt Lake city at 3 o'clock, p.m., Friday.  Gathering up our satchels, lunch baskets, shawl straps, hats, parsols, etc., we stand upon the platform a complete fac simile of Mrs. Partington, looking for "Ike;" before and and around us are hundreds who have arrived just in time enough in advance to get their faces washed and to give our train a hilarious reception.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Among our many features the only clean one is our eyes, which, as they gaze into the multitude, first rest upon the form of Dr. Hughes, of Springfield, Ill., whose body already through hearty laughter has assumed a right angle triangle, who tells us we look healthier than when installed into office last February.  And here we all stand just as dusty as we can possibly be and hundreds are having any amount of fun at our expense.  Little do we care for we have the satisfaction of knowing that we are no worse looking than they when they landed.  But the band has commenced to play that same old tune, "Marching through Georgia," and we all join with the band in the good cheer of the occasion.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Not having dared to wash our faces or taste a drop of water since we crossed the Utah line, we of course feel the need of immediate transportation to some place, when water comes from heaven.  From among a small regiment of hack drivers we select one who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>But the call for supper comes and we are ready to respond, after which our party of eight take a street car and ride up and down the principal streets of the city so wonderfully over-rated and arrive at the skating rink, G.A.R. headquarters, just in time not to be able to hear Logan tell the Mormons what he and "Uncle Sam" thinks of them.  While leaning against a picket fence adjoining the rink we observe on the porch of a house within the yard several vacant chairs near an open window of the rink where, it seems to us, would be a pleasant, comfortable place to listen to Logan, so we embrace the opportunity and are invited to be seated by the lady of the house, whom we find to be a very pleasant Mormon lady, and from whom we gather some important information.  This is the place where Logan made the assertion that Salt Lake was the only place in America "where Jews were Gentiles and Saints sinners," to which our hostess laughes outright, and we venture to ask her how she likes to hear such talk in her own sainted city.  She at once becomes very talkative and instructive, ready to tell us of their faith, religion, abuse, domestic habits, etc., etc.  Logan is forgotten and we embrace the opportunity of our life to interview a woman of the genuine Mormon faith.  We learn many importont things of which we never heard before.  But as all are not, perhaps, as much interested in doctrinal points of Mormon religion as ourself, we record in our mind and not our journal what we have learned to-night while sitting on a Mormon porch in a genuine Mormon city.  To the music of the band we seek our hotel and retire for the night to rest undisturbed until awakened by the bright sunlight of</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday Morning, July 31, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>So at 5 o'clock we find ourself sitting upon the upper porch of the Clift House, posting our journal, looking on the main street of the Mormon kingdom of America.  On the east, towering upwards are the Wasatch Mountains, between which and us, several hundred feet above the city, stands Fort Douglas, with the glorious old stars <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Many little, cool streams come bounding from the mountains to the city, finding their way through troughs along the sides of the city streets, their rippling music ever refreshing to the worn and dusty tourist.  We pause to mail a postal home, refresh ourself with a cool draught from the mountain spring and back to the city.  On the way we meet our little Cassiday the sole occupant of a fine turnout with a colored driver perched on top going to see the sights, a strange characteristic for a single man when so many ladies are traveling alone.  He greets us with the military salute and on to Fort Douglas.</P>
165.sgm:<P>On our way to the city we are pointed to what is known as Emigration Canon which cuts the mountains in two and the place through which Orson Pratt and his companions came when the site for the city was first seen.  Through this same canon Brigham Young came with his early pilgrims and by the same route the early emigrants all came to this spot where undisturbed they might have and enjoy the religion for which they left home, friends and country.  Pilgrims crossing the sea methinks were no firmer in their belief of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>From a lovely tree which stands by the fence we gather blossoms of the pepper tree which are beautiful even when pressed.  We look at the Endowment House and we are content for no sinner ever enters its sacred portals.  Here all marriages take place, both monogamous and polygamous; here all christenings are celebrated, but at the present time the building is closed for their great leader has been obliged to hide himself, to escape the laws of the country, which tell him he must obey and be content with one lawful wife.  Next we drive down Temple street to visit the great church buildings of the city.  The Tabernacle is not unlike the pictures which all have seen It is 250 feet long and wide in proportion, with ceilings 100 feet high and a capacity for seating 12,000 people comfortably.  The acoustic properties of this building are so pure that a whisper can be distinctly heard from one end to the other of the assembly room.  A pin dropped can be heard distinctly at the further end if all is quiet, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Here we find the largest pipe-organ in America.  It has 2,800 large and small pipes.  Over the mountains and through the country this immense music box was drawn by oxen, before the railroad spanned the western world.  Our companion is anxious to try its wonderful power, but the gleam of patriotism upon her tanned face is enough to assure the watchful saint that it would be a violation of woman's faith for the "Georgia" tune to vibrate upon its sacred wires, for Mrs. Newman was at this time, if never before, indeed a sinner.</P>
165.sgm:<P>The assemby hall is another large building with a capacity of seating 2,500, is elegantly furnished and contains some very fine and expensive paintings.  Near by the Tabernacle and Assembly Hall, stands the great Mormon Temple in course of construction.  It was commenced in 1853 but cannot be completed until the forty years have elapsed for its completion which will be in 1893, providing "Uncle Sam" does not conclude before that time to turn it into a United States Mint, or a hospital for wounded soldiers, who have there fought to abolish polygamy and defend the sacred laws of our American Republic.  At the present time we find 200 men pegging away at the syenite brought some thirty miles, to be moulded for this wonderful structure.  When completed two towers will soar 200 feet heavenward from the top of the building.  We pause to interview our guide and select a piece of the material for our cabinet and are now driven to our hotel for dinner, where we all join in social chat of our forenoon's ride, at the dinner table, after which we seek our rooms and sum up in our journal what we have seen and learned in part, of this great city.  We can but state right here that to us seeing has not elevated the place the least in our estimation as to what we had expected to see in Salt Lake City.</P>
165.sgm:<P>This city is inhabited by 15,000 Mormons and 10,000 Gentiles, making a population equal only to small central cities of our own state.  The streets are broad, and at present cleanly, the houses mostly built of wood, many old, and presenting a careless and dilapitated appearance; yet there are many fine buildings, built of brick and stone and we might suppose that professional painters lived in the most of them, by the lack of paint on the outside.  The great Utah valley of which we have ever formed such lovely mind pictures, loses its value and magnificence as we sum up all we have seen in twenty-four hours' ride and stay in the city.  While its fruit, orchards, farms, etc., are fine, the valley is small compared with the great alkali <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Heavy breathing assures us that sisters Newman, Briggs and Bradford are asleep, so closing our journal, we too are soon "wrapped in the arms of morpheus," dreaming of sad, Mormon faces, alkali deserts, mountain dust and Mormon faith.</P>
165.sgm:<P>A loud rap at our door by a gentleman of our party, who says: "Ladies, you have just thirty minutes to reach the train."  A general hustle ensues and in due time, we, baggage and all, assume our respective places in our narrow gauge sleeper, where we again meet every member of our "El Moro" party.  Some are affable and jolly, but the Denver divide has not yet closed, for the stately "good morning" to an "ignorant set" assures us that "all is not gold that glitters."  We however continue our own even way, fully assured that rope enough will hang the strongest criminal, and so in the midst of affected dignity we leave this sainted city and are on our way to Ogden.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Twenty miles are made, and we find ourselves sidetracked on the shores of Great Salt Lake, a wonderful inland sea, which in dreamy silence tidelessly slumbers in the midst of the great Utah valley, whose surface lies at an elevation higher than the Alleghanies, and whose waters are some sixty feet in depth.  Here we are informed by Mr. Butler, our Pullman guide, that two hours will be given for a bath in the lake, and hundreds at once check their valuables and don their suits for the briny swim, whieh proves very enjoyable to all, excepting Pike, whose first dip is to fill his lungs with salt water which causes him to weep regretful tears.  The sensation of a bath in Salt Lake can only be known to those who experience its effects, for the waters are extremely heavy and salty, much more so than this jolly set of tourists thought when, with josie jackets and knee pants, they descended the steps from their dressing rooms and waded the briny waters.  They remind us of a lot of school children going out to catch frogs, yet all alike seem to enjoy the royal fun, but if anyone ever tells you that you can't sink in Salt Lake don't you believe it, for one of our party came near being drowned before he had passed the guide ropes.  He found that a headlong dive into Salt Lake was like falling into a brine barrel and taking a long breath; so with eyes, nose and mouth full of briny water, he comes to the top fully convinced of the fact that a 240 lb. man might possibly sink in Salt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Having spent our allotted time for a bath we drip to our dressing rooms and take a fresh water shower bath, don our clothing, secure our valuables, and with hair hanging down our back assume our sleeper, and are soon on our way to Ogden.  While our companion makes a few sketches in her journal we note the surroundings of Salt Lake.</P>
165.sgm:<P>All along the railroad we see men gathering salt that has been left by evaporation of waters flooded from the lake, for all around the soil is such that no vegetation exists in the vicinity of this inland sea, the only green things we see, that grows near, are frogs, which numerous boys are spearing with long pointed poles.  We bring our humane principles to bear on them, but when told they are catching them to sell we save our breath for more cruel scenes we may find farther on.  But we must note a few items in regard to this great lake from which we have just emerged.  As we stood with the rope gang tossing in the waters, we gathered some sand from the lake bottom, which, when placed to our tongue, was as salt as the mineral itself, and we are led to wonder and recall facts as to the cause of this.  And we pause to ask if this great sink was made and excavated by a great continental glacier, and then filled by mountain streams and rendered salt, because the evaporation exceeded the supply.  If such be facts, then in the future this <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We are now eighteen miles from Ogden traveling along a narrow plain which lies between the dead waters of Salt Lake and the sawlike peaks of the Wasatch mountains.  The valley, however, is very fertile, and many little sparkling streams come singing down from the mountain canons, across the green meadows, and now as our train bears us from sight of this lake we still wonder why, of all the inland waters of America is this one salt and without life.  Science and geology alone must solve the mystery, while we speed on to new sights and scenes.</P>
165.sgm:<P>And now we are at the end of the D. &amp; R.G., but before we leave our little sleeper "El Moro" which has bourne us safely over so many dangerous places, carried us to and from so many lovely, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>At 5 o'clock p.m., Saturday, we arrive at Ogden, the second city of importance in Utah, it being a great railroad center with a population of some 7,000, nestled in cozy homes at the foot of the mountains.  Not far from the depot, where hundreds are now promenading the platform and waiting for the train that shall continue us on our journey, stands a small tent covered over with flags, on front of which is painted in large letters "Welcome, G.A.R."  This little tent, emblematic of days gone by, whose recollections are foremost now, though simple in structure yet made beautiful by America's banner, is sufficient to assure us that even here the true loyal spirit prevails, undaunted and without fear.  We take a walk along the platform, place our journal against the side of the depot and note a few points that present themselves.  The Michigan headquarters train has just arrived, bearing Gov. Alger, of Michigan, Robey, of Maine, and our own gallant Logan, who remain in private quarters until all things are made straight and we continue our journey.  The passengers, however, occupy the depot platform with us and all become friends at once bound for the same destination.  Among the Michigan passengers we meet two representatives of the W.R.C., Mrs. Hampton, the past Department President of the state, and Mrs. Louise Robbins, of Adrian, the delegate-at-large to represent them in national convention.  We are favorably impressed at once at the appearance of these ladies and the vaulted opinion we form of them thus early in our journey is only strengthened by better acquaintance, for we find them ladies of character and intellect, ladies whom the state of Michigan can well be proud to claim.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Major Quallman, of Peoria, and Messrs. Ruhl and Baughner, of Virginia, have constituted themselves a lunch basket committee and have already commenced to locate the same.  Up to the present writing they have already lifted 500 baskets and 400 shawl straps in and out of something less than 100 cars, in hopes at last to find the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>While the gentlemen care for the luggage of the most fascinating the platform is completely stacked with the traps of married women and old maids, who in turn stand sentinel over the same.  As for us we place ours against the wall and trust to luck for its safty and and venture as far as time will allow to catch a sight of Ogden.  We note a few facts and return in time to take our turn at being weighed and find that our avoirdupois is just ten pounds more than ever before, all probably owing to the weighing more than to general improvement.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Our Peoria Dolan has stretched himself across the platform and is trying to sleep.  We place our shawl under his head and for a few moments brush flies while the sick man tries to rest from the fatigue of his journey.  Our Pullman man is nearly distracted, not with his business, but on account of not having but one tongue to answer questions.  Of course every passenger wants the best berth in the best sleeper and he of course promises the best to all.  And even we are in hopes of a change, for thus far we have possessed ourself of amiability for him to note, thinking perhaps a reward will come before our journey is completed.  At the rear end of the depot we find Ben. Funk and Major Sexton teetering on the baggage truck.  Col. Distin has pinned an extra badge on his coat, seated himself on the railroad bank and is humming in plaintive tones "Tenting To-Night."  Our decorator is stringing bunting and our companion is gathering weeds for our herbarium, while the other half of our quartette have seated themselves at the table in the dining room to avail themselves of a square meal.  At the north end of the depot there are eight beer kegs which are occupied by Rouse, Lawder, Reardon, Meals, Copes, Cowger, Cassiday and Pike.  The usual amount of backing, switching, blowing off steam, whistling, etc., has been done and the cry is "all aboard," so we gather ourselves up once more and are located in sleeper No. 2 of the Central Pacific railroad, which is much wider than the one we have just left and which better suits our general comfort, though still destined to up-stairs apartments which we had hoped to exchange, but as we note the long, dignified faces presented us, which looked so pleasant at the beginning of our journey, we smother our rebellious feelings and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Our train, that leaves Ogden at 7 o'clock Saturday night, is composed of an engine, baggage car and thirteen sleepers, among which is Gov. Algers' car of which our Logan and wife are occupants, who now join and travel with us to the "Golden Shore," and who before retiring for the night pass through the entire train and bid us all a kind good night.</P>
165.sgm:<P>The amiability with which we clothed ourself an hour ago has become terribly ruffled and we now stand ready to denounce every point of politeness heretofore extended by the Peoria party, for the gallant Major has effected a change in his berth which not only adds insult but injury to our heretofore pleasant quarters, for in the exchange we are placed opposite one who may have served well his country in its hour of peril (and for that alone we strive to endure), but whisky and tobacco never did make for us a pleasant combination; and all our persuasive powers fail to accomplish a change, and so we retire and sleep 'mid the fumes of tobacco and rattling of long-necked bottles with silver collars.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday Morning, August 1, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We rise at an unusually early hour for us, call the porter who adjusts the step ladder, and we descend while all are asleep, and endeavor to seek the level of our naturally happy disposition in the morning air of Nevada, having just crossed the Utah line.  The sun is just rising in the eastern horizon and its lengthened rays extend far across the great desert we are now riding over.  And this is the great state of Nevada, whose unnavigable streams, after flowing short distances are lost in picturesque lakes, sinks or porous soil.  A state of volcanic structure, of strange deposits and uninviting landscape to the tourist, yet withal interesting to the extreme in its wonderful make up and striking contrast to the home of the tourist who may perhaps sometime become dissatisfied with his lot in life.  We arrive at Elko at 10 o'clock Sunday morning, where we all get breakfast.  The dining room door of the depot hotel is held ajar by a true specimen of woman, who counts noses as they pass through the door until every chair at the table is filled, and then bars it against all others until first come are first served, while through a ticket window at one side she assures the howling crowd that all they need is patience to secure a good square meal before the train leaves, and by the looks of her determined countenance we conclude that patience is just as good as anything else to possess on this occasion, and we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Leaving Carlin we enter the twelve mile canon, where red, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Very much refreshed by our stop and dinner at Humboldt we continue our journey along the river, crossing it at Granite Point where we leave it to embosom itself in the quiet Humbolt Lake, whose waters are forever swallowed up in the great Humbolt Sink.  Carson Lake also loses its waters in the same great sink.  We have arrived at Mirage, a side-track at the top of a low range known as Antelope Mountains, which form the divide between Pyramid Lake and the great Carson and Humboldt sinks.  The sun is just setting and strange as it may seem the air is actually cool and all feel much refreshed after a very hot, dusty day's travel.  We become very much interested in a little story the pleasant porter is telling of Pyramid Lake, which lies on our right some twenty miles away, receiving its name from the fact of a rock 500 feet rising directly out of the lake.  Some ten years ago an exploring party visited this island rock but were frightened away by the numberless rattlesnakes which held the pyramid fort and expelled all intruders by frightful hisses and prolonged rattles.  And now as we review the day's journey it seems that ever since we struck the Humbolt River we have been traveling over seemingly treacherous ground, for on both sides of us have been numerous sinks into which the streams have all flowed and been forever lost.  This station where we now stop is noted for its optical illusions, which have deceived so many weary, thirsty travelers, who thought so soon to reach cool shade and refreshing draughts.  It is not our lot to witness one of these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday Morning, August 2, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We come forth from the sleeper to enjoy the morning air, and find that we are at the foot of the Sierras.  The sun is coming up extremely warm, but we feel that the day must be pleasant for we are to assend altitudes higher than this.  One by one the passengers come forth to regale themselves in mountain air, and view the little city of Reno, situated on a flat covered with sage brush, some twenty-five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:miles from Virginia City, a place of 20,000 people, perhaps the most important on the eastern slope of the Sierras.  No one seems to be in any particular hurry, but saunter around leisurely, hunting breakfast, coffee, etc.--perhaps more of the etc. than anything else.  We secure some sage brush tea and open our lunch baskets on a handcar near the platform and the double quartette breakfast together.  Our little Pullman conductor comes along looking like the "King of the Pansies," bids us a kind good morning with the same doubtful scowl, for we think he sums us up as an Ogress or short hand writer ready to pen his epitaph, but we have no idea of this, and but for that protracted sky parlor of ours we might be his very best friend.  On all sides and in every direction are the Indians begging for money and victuals.  Our companion has gone forth with friendly hand to greet them, and were it not for her <HI REND="italics">pompadour</HI>
165.sgm:<P>Our patient of Marshal Pass is again getting short breathed, but in time she seeks a horizontal position and is comparatively comfortable, though her numerous watchful friends already hover around.  The Truckee river comes rushing along over a rocky bed full of mountain trout which we are informed is quite an article of commerce at Truckee, 200,000 lbs. annually being taken from the stream.  And now we have arrived at Truckee, an important lumbering town in the heart of the Sierras.  We stop for a change of engines, collect a specimen for our collection and are again on our way toward and through the forty miles of snow sheds, which on this occasion cause many sour tourists to grumble because by them a complete view of nature is shut from sight, they having no thoughts farther than the present to consider the importance of these great and expensive sheds, which alone secure safety to the traveler over the Sierras in winter.  For forty miles these sheds have been built at an expense of some $500,000, intervening alone with tunnels through the mountains.  We, in full appreciation of the kind act of the C.P.R.R. Co., who allowed us to spend the night at Reno in order to pass over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Now but a short distance from the picturesque Donner Lake we leave the beautiful Truckee and turn our attention with an admiring party toward that beautiful lake of silvery water which appears so bright for a few moments and is then lost among the peaks of the Sierras.  It was here near this lake that Starvation Camp once stood, which perhaps among the many scenes of suffering in early the pioneer life of California, is the most renowned, and made so more from the fact of every tourist's mind who passes here being turned to the facts of the starving of the Dinner family and party which consisted of about one hundred persons en route for California and who were overtaken by one of those terrible snow storms when near Donner Lake.  There were many children among them, all of whom perished, with most of the men.  Some of the women were saved and this little lake at the top of the mountains receives its name from the fidelity of Mrs. Donner, who chose to die with her husband rather than escape with the children and leave him to perish alone.  When spring came and the snows began to melt, the corpse of the husband was found tenderly cared for by her hands while she had perished alone.  Having just passed the high and rocky walls of Donner Lake at our left we are now riding through Strong's Canon, fast nearing the summit of the Sierras.  Leaving the lake some eight miles behind we now pause at Summit, the highest point of the C. P. railroad, 7,000 feet above the sea, yet one can scarcely believe the fact for the green pastures and verdant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>After leaving the summit the most of the afternoon is spent in the varied scenes of the Sierras--singing streams and winding canons that open upon us as we journey on.  The scenery is beautiful as well as grand, for unlike the Rockies we see verdured hills in place or barren peaks covered with rock and sand, and each revolution of the iron horse brings us nearer the great Sacremento Valley.  Snow sheds grow shorter as we approach Blue Canon which presents the steepest grade on the line of the road it being about 120 feet to the mile.  Through the canon the scenery becomes beautiful and interesting, for we have passed snow sheds and tunnels and are now enjoying sights that have not presented themselves before, as we are now in that part of the Sierras known as the gold bearing mountains of America, where so many have both lost and gained wealth.  We are now constantly in sight of flumes and hydraulic mining which have long since taken the place of what was once known as "placer" mining or washing out the gold with hands in place of running water.  As our train moves on we go from side to side of our sleeper to see how completely the whole country has been washed out by these artificial streams in searching and finding gold, in consequence of which the red soil has been left uncovered and every mark of vegetation destroyed which may require ages to replace.  Farms in these lovely valleys have been completely ruined by the debris which has been cast upon them by this process of mining, which legislation has failed to check, and as we descend to the valley we find the once clear and sparkling brooks fresh from the mountains now turbulent streams of muddy water.  After leaving Gold Run we pass over a muddy water gorge which lies 500 feet below us and are told that we are are very near Cape Hern, and we step to the platform to see the celebrated place and view the mechanism of man which has wound the railroad around the mountains in solid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Just before reaching this city we are introduced to Mr. R. Rouse, of Peoria, who asks us if we can draft resolutions.  We inform him that we have done such a thing and might possibly again.  Pencil and paper are furnished and, in accordance with the general desire of the "El Moro" passengers, we draft some fitting resolutions complimentary to J. C. Butler, the gentleman whom the Pullman Car Co. have sent to show us courtesy and favor to our destination.  Before we arrive at Rocklin the resolutions are completed and signed by every member of the "El Moro" party, and at Rocklin presented with reading and applause to Mr. Butler, who responds with seeming delight that his endeavors have been, by us, appreciated, though so often we have seemingly censured him for sending us up stairs to sleep continually.  As the train moves on the resolutions are passed to our neighbor car and signed by every member.  This is as far as time will allow for other signatures, yet we have no doubt but what our appreciations are the united ideas of the entire train.  We are again solicited to draft resolutions for Major Quallman, which we gladly do, and embody in the same the fact of his being the boss lunch basket depositor, notwithstanding the fact he has never lifted ours one single inch; the nearest of ever coming to it was when he tumbled over it in the aisle, when on his way to convene a secret session.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>At 7 o'clock p.m. we arrive at Sacramento, the capital of California; supper is waiting and we hasten to secure a seat at the first table.  The crowd at the depot is simply immense, so that it is almost impossible for us to reach the dining room, yet we succeed by holding fast to each other in single file.  We secure supper and return to the train from which Logan is making a few remarks.  As the train moves on we join the throng in the good old song, "Marching through Georgia," while, standing on a pile of trunks, some patriotic soul waves a tiny flag and hurrahs for Logan.  We continue our way through lovely valleys until lost in darkness, and we all join in the sociability of the evening until we reach Benicia.  The weather seems very much cooler, and we assume our warmest clothing.  Our whole train is now on the ferry boat at at Benecia, occupying three different tracks, and we are crossing the largest ferry of the kind in the world.  We stand on the boat outside of the train and look upon the waters we are crossing over, and are told it is Sacremento River, and that we shall soon land at Point Costa.  At Benecia we are introduced to the uncle of our sister Bradford, who meets her here and instructs us as to the points of interest we now pass in darkness.  Near by is Mare Island where the San Francisco navy yard was once situated, and Vallejo, the old state capital.  We reach Oakland at 10:30 p.m., board the ferry, cross the bay, and are now in San Francisco.  We have, after nine days travel, landed on the golden shore.  Mrs. Bradford, the important sixth of our number, goes with her uncle to his home on McAlister st., while we take a carriage for the Grand Hotel, the Headquarters of the Department of Illinois.  We find that everything is full to the utmost, so we must look farther for accommodations.  The hour is late and we are tired, so, seated in the parlor, we await the return of Pike and Reardon, who conduct us to the Brunswick House where we remain for the night.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday Morning, August 3, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We awaken in San Francisco, the sun has already entered our room across the darkened roofs of other buildings and we hasten our toilet, for the day is too full for leisure.  We are surprised on entering the dining room to find the most of the occupants of our sleeper seated at the breakfast table who bid us a formal good morning.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We are now ready for the program of the week which commences with a grand parade of the Grand Army already convened in the city.  We take seats on Market street where we can watch the town <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>While standing here we are interested in an old lady whose sweet motherly face alternates with smiles and tears until suddenly she enters the ranks, embraces the soldiers and actually kisses them as they march along, and we wonder at this seemingly rash act, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>The parade being over we return to our rooms, transfer the contents of our trunks and satchels to closets and drawers, arrange our toilets and go down to dinner, where we are notified that callers await us in the parlor, and we are pleased to meet old friends whom we have not seen for years--Mr. Pierce, wife and daughters, also Mrs. Anna Wood, formerly of Rhode Island and later a very sucessful teacher in our own town, now resident and teacher at Oakland.  We are delighted to meet these old friends so far from home, and make good use of our tongues for a few moments, all talking at the same time.  They have come to give us special welcome to California and Oakland's hospitalities.  They leave us to call again with arrangements for the future, and we join our party to attend the grand reception given by the G.A.R. to Logan and Sherman.  All visitors are ushered to the galleries of Mechanics' Pavillion, and we await the coming of "the boys."  The doors open below well guarded by policemen, and to the music of several silver bands, the Grand Army come in procession.  Never before have we seen a grander sight than this.  Four abreast they march up the broad aisle to the music of "Marching Through Georgia," and "Tramp, Tramp, Tramp," etc., and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday Morning, August 4, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We awaken at 5 o'clock and are the first one up and ready for the day.  While waiting for breakfast we post our journal and pen a short item for our home paper, the Delavan <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
165.sgm:.  Our companion is evidently growing vain, for at least ten extra minutes have been spent this morning in rolling up her pompadour.  Breakfast over we leave our companion to visit the city and coast and with our friend set out for a morning walk.  The weather is such as would warrant a storm at home, for the fog is thick and darkening.  Our morning frizzes have collapsed in the moisture which gives us the appearance of a "country cousin."  The only alternative in this moist climate is a five by ten veil which we procure at once and pin across our forehead.  We visit headquarters for mail and find a letter from home.  We note the hour hand on the clock in the steeple which tells us it is ten o'clock.  Across the street, waving in the fog is a white banner on which is printed "Headquarters of Woman's Relief Corps."  We ascend two flights of stairs and are in "Irving Hall" whose large entrance presents a very attractive appearance.  The stage is draped with two large flags of the Union, above which, in letters of evergreen, are the words "Fraternity, Charity and Loyalty."  On either side of the President's chair are two large and beautiful floral badges of G.A.R. and W.R.C. which have been presented by Appomattox Corps, of Oakland.  The chandaliers and galleries are festooned with flowers.  A row of banners to designate the seats of each state delegation are hung from the wall.  It is announced from the platform that each delegate to the National Convention will be presented with a souvenir badge by the general committee of management of the G.A.R., which consists of a clasp from which is suspended by a yellow ribbon, a Maltese cross.  The clasp and cross are both solid silver.  The clasp is a bear, emblematic of the coat of arms of California; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday Morning, August 5, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>Six o'clock finds us at the breakfast table.  While waiting our order we read the morning paper and note the death of Samuel J. Tilden, at Greystone, yesterday morning.  We pass from the dining room to the parlor and find several cards of friends who called in our absence yesterday.  In company with our friend, responsive to instructions from the Tazewell County Veteran Association, we call on Gen. John A. Logan, at the "Baldwin."  The bell boy answers our call and we send our card to the General who has not yet arisen.  This is Santa Cruz day and we have no time to wait, so leave our business in black and white and hasten to see our friends who are off for Santa Cruz.  We are deprived of this excursion because a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday Morning, August 6th, 1886</HI>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, August 7, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>As we peep through the blinds at 5 o'clock, a heavy fog hangs between us and the large, red sun, just above the eastern horizon.  The busy city is astir; up and down the street are already seen the blue coats of the old boys.  The bands have commenced to play and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:everything seems to speak a gala day for all.  We awaken our party, who respond to the call, and all commence the general preparations for the fast coming day.  Breakfast over we don our heavy wraps, and, as usual, report at Headquarters for our mail, where we find letters from home, assuring us that all are well.  Up the stairs and through the halls of this Grand Hotel rushes the busy throng, each, as it were, making ready for the day.  We hasten to Convention Hall to know the program there, and finding that no other business will take place save the installation of officers, we join our party for the excursion on the bay.  We enter a crowded car and are soon at the wharf where thousands have already collected to join the grandest excursion that ever sailed out on San Francisco Bay.  Arrangements have already been made by the General Committee of Arrangements, whereby every delegate and comrade can be amply accommodated.  The gala fleet of the day consists of seven vessels, viz:  <HI REND="italics">Santa Rosa, Amador, Garden City, Oakland, Aurora, Tamalapas,</HI>
165.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">James M. Donahue</HI>
165.sgm:, the first six to accommodate the G.A.R. and W.R.C.; the first of which is the flag-ship of the day, and the last for visitors who may desire to accompany the excursion.  We find our ticket for the <HI REND="italics">Santa Rosa</HI>
165.sgm:, the flagship, which bears the gallant Logan, and is to pass beyond the Heads.  With due thanks for the highest favor of the excursion, we make a change of tickets for the <HI REND="italics">Oakland</HI>
165.sgm:, for on this vessel we are to meet our Yankee cousins, of Portland, Maine, whom we have not seen for years, but whom we have constantly sought ever since we commenced our journey.  We pass and repass thousands hurridly seeking the vessel that corresponds with their ticket.  We stand on the deck of the <HI REND="italics">Oakland</HI>
165.sgm:, while passengers come in swarms and listen to the bands playing our national airs, and are agreeably surprised to find ourself among so many home friends on the <HI REND="italics">Oakland</HI>
165.sgm:.  We pass around the cabin, where we meet our cousin, who has already come on board and is looking for us.  He presents us to his wife, whom we have never seen, but whose affable ways at once win kindred love.  We present them at once to our friends and the sextette becomes a double quartette for the day.  At 10 o'clock the whistle sounds loud and long, the gangway is removed and seven vessels, on which are more than as many thousand souls, sail out on on the Bay.  As the flag-ship takes the lead every band joins in the good old tune of "Rally round the flag."  The morning fog has cleared and the warm sun reflects upon the peaceful waters.  Across the bay lies the beautiful city of Oakland, where long piers stretch toward us as if to give us welcome, while to the south lies the little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:find many reclining with seasickness which will probably have a tendency to make unclaimed berths for Portland.  Here we meet our friends Funk and wife, who have with them an old Normal schoolmate whom we have not seen for many years and we recognize at once the familiar face, one which once was known as Alice Piper, now Mrs. Gen. Blackburn, of Ventura, Cal.  Time with her, as us, has left marked traces, yet the meeting is mutually pleasant, for the old friends are always the best.  During the day we talk over old times at Normal and sum them up as both pleasant and profitable.  Again they sing and we must join in the chorus of the "Sweet bye and bye."  It is four o'clock when the fleet nears the San Francisco wharf and the eleven hundred from the <HI REND="italics">Oakland</HI>
165.sgm: pass over the gangway and follow different directions.  Lost from the crowd, our immediate party decide to visit Chinatown, which vividly brings to our minds all we have seen and heard of the "heathen Chinee," and as we pass up and down and through their greasy, dirty, crowded quarters and learn that all their dealings add nothing to American trade or home axchange, we can but join in the spirit of the Californian--that of disgust--for everything they eat, drink and wear comes from China, except perhaps it be the hog, which the Americans ought to have legislated out of the country long ago.  Some of our party drink at their tea houses, but as for us we prefer tea at an American table.  We visit some of their banking houses and obtain autographs of Chinese bankers said to be worth half a million.  While their shops and markets seem low, smoky, crowded and dirty we can but note the fact that the Chinamen themselves look very cleanly.  Their cues and their low wooden shoes reveal white drilling stockings or clean deformed feet.  Among them we see very few women and children, and they clean and well dressed in Chinese costume.  The children seem very bright and reach their little hands in friendship.  We try to talk to them but they understand nothing but our smiles.  Many of our party with policemen visit their quarters at night and their lodgings four hundred feet under ground.  We are content in daytime to see one house of ten rooms where seven hundred live and sleep, and this they say is very respectable living among Chinamen.  Chinatown well done we take the California street cable cars and ride the full length of this beautiful street to admire the loveliest part of the city, where on the elevated foot-hills of the coast range stand the finest residences.  And now we bid farewell to our cousins, L.M. Webb and wife, they to fullfil their California program of sight-seeing and we ours, and finish our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>On our table lie several invitations for to-night, but our friend says sleep is her program to-night and our companion and sister acquiesce, so the only alternative is for us to do likewise for our brother's ticket is to a meeting of comrades alone.  So at an early hour, amid the patriotic music of many bands, we retire and try in dreams to enjoy once more the program of the day.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, August 8, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>Having slept rather late this morning we are all up at the same time and considerably out of repairs from the hilarity of yesterday.  While pinning up our jaded drapery and frizzing our hair the program of the day is decided.  Our relatives and companion being somewhat more religiously inclined than ourself, propose to take in some of the large churches of the place and "kill two birds with one stone" by pretending to be devout while they study San Francisco's architecture and the paraphernalia of her church-going people.  We and our friend after receiving perhaps just rebuke for saying we can attend church at home, decide our program for the day and at eight o'clock we set out to see all we can of San Francisco.  We walk down Geary street to Market and take a car for Telegraph Hill, a high promitory that overlooks the city and bay.  The morning is lovely and the bay is dotted over with vessels sailing from side to side.  Here we remain on hour to view the surroundings, and find we are not the only people who did not go to church to-day, for every car that climbs the angle of 35 degrees brings to the top a new party of sight-seers, all of whom are well behaved people, like us, making the most of their time while in the city.  We cling closely to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, August l9, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>At an early hour we meet our landlady and settle our bill for the week, just fifteen dollars, after which we secure a baggagemaster to transfer our luggage to our new quarters.  By previous engagement we are to meet our friend in Oakland, at the foot of Broadway, at 9 o'clock, in order to be ahead of the vast crowd that assemble for grand reception there to-day.  We hasten to the wharf and take the <HI REND="italics">Piedmont</HI>
165.sgm: for Oakland.  Never having crossed the Bay before in daytime, we are not aware of the fact that a two mile pier extends out into the Bay, from Oakland, where trains connect with the ferry; we therefore, on landing from the boat, take seats in the depot while the train moves out and leaves us.  We approach the depot master and in just as pretty a way as possible ask him how long before the train goes to Oakland?  He assumes an impudent air and says "That is the train going now.  Don't you see it?  Can't you read?"  Feeling that we are rather verdant we question him no farther but listen to the same unkind, ungentlemanly remarks to others and come to the conclusion that he is not glad to see us or is tired of so much reception.  So, to put in the next half hour until the train goes again, we write some postals home, which we mail in the Wells Fargo Express box and rouse the ire of the old man at our greenness, and he again <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Our friend arrives and joins us in lunch after which she conducts us to the grand banquet hall where the hundreds are already seated at the tables.  We soon find room for one more and are found foraging a pot of beans from an army chaplain which he has appropriated to himself.  The grand dinner we receive to-day through Oakland's hospitality is but a repetition of the many of which we have already partaken, and as souvenirs we are are told to carry away the tin cups from which we drink our coffee.  Before leaving the hall we are presented with a chromo of a large canteen, on the top of which are the words, "Welcome Comrades;" beneath, a squad of soldiers under the flag; crossed arms in the center with a "live-oak" beneath the trademark of the city, all suspended by the Grand Army badge, in the center of the star of which there is a bird's eye view of the city which gives us such cordial welcome to-day.  The day is very warm, yet we always find it cool in the shade in California, so we sit on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, August 10, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>At 6 o'clock we and our companion are up and ready for breakfast.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, August 11, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We are awakened this morning by the good-byes of our brother and wife, who leave for Gurneysville to join us at the Geysers tomorrow.  After indulging in a few moment's of stolen sleep we hasten to make ready for the day with program so full of interest.  At 7 o'clock we stand on the deck of a steamboat, while hundreds come to take passage.  Everybody seems happy and free from care and ready for the enjoyments of the day.  The vessel, comfortably crowded with a crew of jolly tourists leaves the wharf at 8 o'clock, sailing north through the steamboat ship channel, across San Pablo Bay, a distance of eighteen miles, and lands at Vallejo at 9:15 when we board the train already in waiting and commence our journey through the celebrate Napa Valley which extends in a northerly direction between two spurs of the Coast Range that terminate at Mt. St. Helena, the highest point of the mountains.  This valley is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, August 12, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>After a warm, sultry night we rise at 6 o'clock, and, for the first time since leaving home, feel very tired.  At 7 o'clock we take the train tor San Francisco, returning through the same lovely valley as of yesterday, until we reach Fairfield, then south to Benecia, where we cross the waters that connect Suisan and San Pablo Bays on a steamer that bears the train across.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We arrive in San Francisco at 10:30 o'clock where we at once report at headquarters for our mail.  Finding none we return to our rooms in a full realization of the fact that all of our immediate friends have left the city, and we are comparatively alone and long way from home.  While at dinner we arrange a program for the afternoon.  Our companion dicides to visit the mint and other places in company with Mrs. Troyer, of Peoria, whom we have accepted as a very warm and pleasant friend.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We and our friend decide to once more visit the Pacific beach and bury our lonliness in the sand.  We hasten to the wharf to find a friend (who leaves the city at 3 o'clock) to secure some knowledge of exchange of tickets, after which we take a car and arrive at the Cliff House at 3:30, p.m., where hundreds are walking, sitting and visiting.  We walk up and down the shore for a long distance in hopes of finding something that will be interesting for our cabinet, but all our hopes are summed up in one poor little rusty button-hook, for indeed nothing but an occasional sea-weed can be found.  We purchase a sea-urchin and star-fish from the stands at the Cliff House, and then sit on the sand and watch the children go in and out with the splashing waves until the long whistle summons all to the last train for the day.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Once in the city we again visit headquarters, where we meet Gen.  Post, wife and daughter, B. F. Funk and wife, and Sargeant Sexton, with whom we join in general discussion of the extensive wine drinking in California.  We all agree to disagree and bid them good-bye, for to-morrow we all leave the city, going in different directions.  Already we have decided to meet our relatives at the Geysers.  We return to our room where we find our companion posting her journal.  After supper we again do a little washing and then sit down to sum up in our continuous journal, our stay in San Francisco.</P>
165.sgm:<P>It has now been ten days since we first set our feet upon the golden soil, and to-morrow we leave the city undoubtedly forever.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday, August 13, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>Having overslept ourself this morning we find we are too late for the boats to the Geysers, where we were to meet our brother to-day, so we change our program and decide to visit Yosemite Valley,  We hasten to the Grand Hotel and secure our tickets for the trip, procure our exchange on home tickets by the way of Los Angeles, receive our mail and hasten to prepare for the journey.  Just one moment too late we meet Gen.  Busse, who tells us of vacant berths on the steamer for Portland.  One moment sooner and we might never have seen Yosemite Valley, but we are too late for Portland and in time for the valley.  Trunks and satchels are checked to Los Angeles; lunch baskets and surplus food donated the drayman who transfers our baggage.  One little hand-bag contains all we take with us, save what we carry on our person.  We settle up with our landlady, post our friends as to our change of program and future intentions, and stand on Eddy street and listen to the parting words of a body of comrades who have, during the week, made their headquarters jolly at all hours of night with hiliarity and song.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We take a car for the wharf and stand once more on deck of the <HI REND="italics">Piedmont</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We at once make the acquaintance of those who are to accompany <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Mr. and Mrs. J. Davidson, and Mrs. M. A. Thayer, Sparta, Wisconsin; Alice Natile, New Orleans, La.; Mrs. A. R. McPhetus, Bloomington, Ind.; Mrs. M. L. Pratt, Cambridge Port, Mass.; Henry Tetlow and wife, Philadelphia, Penn.; Anna E. Kreight, London, Ontario; Mrs. Wm. Sanborn and Miss Augusta Taylor, San Francisco, Cal.; J. A. Cooper, wife and four children, Denver, Col.; Judge Benson Wood and wife, Effingham, Ills.; Prof. Hitchcock, of Amhurst University, ourself, companion and friend, with a few others whose autographs we fail to procure, make up the jolly party.</P>
165.sgm:<P>As usual, and in accordance with our general luck since starting from home, we again occupy a sky parlor.  Mr. and Mrs. Wood are our nearest neighbors.  Leaving San Francisco we travel north and east between the spurs of the Coast Range and San Pablo and Suisan Bays, until we reach the valley, through which the S.P.R.R. extends.  The scenery is very interesting, with barren hills and rolling mounds at our right, and dark, blue waters at our left, until we pass Antioch and enter the great San Joaquin valley, which lies between the Sierras and Coast Range, terminating at the celebrated Tehachaja Pass.  This valley is about two hundred and fifty miles long and from twenty to one hundred and fifty miles wide. Unlike other beautiful valleys through which we have traveled in California, this one seems to be a vast deposit of sandy soil, owned by capitalists who cultivate thosands of acres of wheat each year, thus keeping the land from the emigrant, who would gladly make the whole valley one vast fruit orchard, wherein people might live and brighten the now desert appearance of this great valley.  The eyes become weary with sameness, for the hay fields have vanished, and the only verdure is an occasional tree and tufts of alfalfa which only thrive through.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We supper at Lathrop after which, weary with sameness of scenery, we climb to our rest while the train moves on.  At 11 o'clock our sleeper is sidetracked at Berenda, where we must remain for the rest of the night.  In vain we try to sleep, but the heat is so oppessive that rest is impossible, though our companion seems perfectly at home.  We call the porter and ask him to open the doors and give us air, but he informs us that we are now where it is necessary for our sleeper to be kept locked and well guarded, which gives us a slightly nervous sensation when we contemplate danger, yet we as soon be killed as smothered and insist that the doors be opened.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday August 15, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We call the porter at 5 o'clock who adjusts the step-ladder and we are the first to seek the morning air, for a warmer night was never experienced than the last.  We stand upon the back end of our sleeper and look off into space, for we are midway the great San Joaquin Valley.  A depot, freight-house and hotel are all the buildings we see.  West of us lies a wheatfield extending north and south as far as the eye can reach; east, a vast plain covered with white, sandy soil and an occasional low shrub or scrubby tree.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Above the distant Sierras the sun is just climbing.  Everything is calm save the steaming engine that is to carry us to Raymond.  Up and down the track walks a lone man, who tells us the Los Angeles train is two hours late and we must await its coming.  One by one the passengers come out on the steps and ties, all looking weary and somewhat discouraged when they think of the journey before them.  A long whistle and the north-bound train arrives and we are again on our way eastward, toward the Sierras.  Twenty-five miles are soon made and at 9:15 we stand in the white sand over shoe top at Raymond.  As we take in the situation we at once seem to realize that trouble has just begun.  The country around is rough and broken, covered with sand and gnarled oaks.  At the foot of the hill is a large stable and sheds for horses.  At the end of the railroad track a freight-house stands on stilts, around the platform of which a half dozen men are sitting laughing at our disappointment.  Not far off is what they call a dining-hall, built of saplings covered with canvas, through which the heat rays of the sunbeam strike us most unmercifully.  The breakfast is passable, the price increasing, yet now is no time to take issue, so we endeavor to adapt ourselves to circumstances and make the best of everything.  Under a pine tree there is a bench on which is a wash-pan, of which some avail themselves; as for us we jam our bonnet to the other side and await our turn in the stage.  Up the hill comes No. 1, 2, and 3 stages with just room to accommodate the party, just thirty in all.  No. 1 leads the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>These stages are very heavy conveyances, drawn generaly by four to six horses, according to elevation; sprightly, yet rather lean in appearance.  We are all aboard now and off to wonderland.  At first we try to be jolly, for everything is new and we have indeed become tourists.  We shut our eyes and close our mouths to the clouds of dust that surround us for every turn we hope to strike harder and moister soil, but the farther we go the worse it gets, so we smother our feelings and think we will enjoy as best we can this trip of a lifetime.  Five miles are scarcely made when we almost wish we had never started, for of all the jolting and shaking up that human being ever experienced this is the liveliest, for we are obliged to hold our thin friend in position to keep her from injuring her sense by bumping our head against the top of the stage.  Our companion, however, has again bared her face to the sun and bade defiance to weariness.  The stage seat grows narrower and we soon begin to realize that we have been a little too accomodating in allowing the Prof. to occupy our seat in the stage, so we venture a hint for exchange which is not taken; so, at the end of ten miles, when we stop for a change of horses we assume our own seat assigned us in San Francisco and continue our journey with comparative comfort.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We ride for a long distance in sight of the Haley &amp; Gambetta Minning Mills, pleasantly located among the mountains on gently sloping side hills covered with grass and trees.  The scenery grows grander and more exciting as we ride along over this wonderful turnpike, built at the expense of twenty millions of dollars.  Though continually ascending the mountain heights of the Sierras the grade is almost unnoticable.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Through our continued journey we ride along the alarming precipices where perpendicularly at our feet we see nothing but space, with mountains and valleys beyond.  The thundering stage rolls along over its hollow sounding road within a few feet of precipices of rock, which the least disturbance to well trained horses might hurl us to death and destruction at any moment.  Occasionally we approach a mountain valley beautifully green with grass and grove-like timber, that for a moment reminds us of home and causes us to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We stop at a wide turn in the road, where, down over rocks through moss and ferns, comes a rippling mountain stream from which we drink and are much refreshed; then on, on, higher and higher, now descending at a breakneck speed we arrive at Grant's, where all stop for dinner and a change of horses.  On the side of the hill stands a long, low cottage, in neatness supreme, behind which the mountains rise peak after peak as if to guard from the outer world the happy resort of the tourist.  We step from the stage to a long porch where a general shake, brush and wash up ensues.  We meet our host, a little, old, jolly man, with three black-eyed daughters.  We are escorted to a bathroom for a general wash, after which we enter a dining-room as neat as wax, and enjoy a yankee dinner.  We stand upon the porch and look down and up to mountain heights, over which we must pass before our journey is ended.  We walk down to the celebrated white Sulphur Springs and gather a tiny blossom in memory of the welcome inn, twenty-three miles from Raymond.  The three stages, drawn by eighteen fresh horses, come galloping down the hill and stop in front of the porch.  We are soon comfortably seated and continue our journey onward.  The sun is extremely hot and the dust terrible.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Our Cambridgeport sister wishes she was afloat in the Charles River, and openly declares she never will be clean.  Mr. and Mrs. Tetlow, in the full possession of the disposition of the founder of their Quaker city, continue in patience and forbearance, while our noted Prof. seems to scowl disapproval at our national airs, which we try to render in song.  The "Frisco" ladies are closely veiled and seem to study our true inwardness, for since we claimed our just rights in assuming our place beside them in the stage they seem to think us too numerous to be familiar.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We are now climbing Chauchilla Mountain, whose summit is reached in six miles travel, and the scenery which we now behold is said to surpass any mountain scenery on the continent if not in Europe; certainly no stage ride can be more grand.  We now commence our gradual descent toward the Emerald Valley, on all sides surrounded by the loveliest evergreen forests on grassy slopes decorated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>As the short rays of the sun predominate we behold a sunset we shall never forget, the sight alone of which has amply paid us for the day of dusty travel.  We look through a canon, beyond which the loveliest of sunset skies seems to have assumed a horizontal position, looking like the face of a lake painted by nature's artist with choicest dyes.  Our exclamations are those of joy, and we note at once this gorgeous sunset seen while crossing the Sierras, and form a picture in our mind that will be pleasant to remember in time to come.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Having been late in leaving Berenda we do not reach Wawona till 9 o'clock at night, so the last part of our day's stage ride is by moonlight, and the coolness of the evening has made us all very happy.  The steeps around us are growing less and danger is farther back, unless, perchance, we meet the dreaded "roadster" who may possibly claim our valuables before we reach Wawona, but the faithful six, obedient to our driver's skill, soon land us on Emerald flat, four thousand feet above the sea, one of the pleasantest places on earth.  In front of Clark's Hotel, with a capacity for hundreds, we stand and are brushed by Chinamen, while the many who have preceeded us join in general hilarity at our expense, for a dirtier set never landed at Clark's.  We are escorted to rooms 39 and 40 in the cottage where a surplus of water is furnished for our convenience.  Our clothing is well shaken from the long porches and we return to the hotel over a moonlight walk and enjoy a splendid supper.  We meet many tourists with whom we exchange cards and mutual appreciations of our journey and then return to our rooms for the night.  While interviewing the chamber-maid, she hands us an envelope picked up at our door, which, on being, examined proves to be the complete stock of trip tickets that shall insure safe transportation of our companion to her journey's end, to home and loved ones.  We place them among our own valuables, congratulate ourself that Providence has raised us up to care for her tickets, else her now happy soul might be ruffled with anxiety if we ever again reach the railroad from which we are now thirty-two miles away.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We sleep to-night in a cottage of many rooms in Emerald Valley, surrounded by mountains.  Everything is calm, save the musical fountain that acts in front of our cottage.  Our companion, unconscious of of her mightbe serious loss, sleeps long and well and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, August 16, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We are kept awake the most of the night by the continual bustle occasioned by the incoming and outgoing stages, for the drivers whistle makes the valley sing and the partitions that divide the rooms of the cottage are so thin that a rap at a door or a snore from a slumberer is heard though several rooms away.  Six o'clock finds us ready for a fesh start on our journey, though the past day's stage ride has made our back the object of much attention.  We walk upon the long porch that surrounds the cottage and find among many strangers our own party busy shaking the dust from their clothing.  We interrogate our Cambridgeport sister as to how she feels this lovely morning?  She bangs her dress against the railing and says "Fool that I am to come here when I might have spent the summer on the Atlantic coast and kept clean."  Having thus given out the promptings of honest though we are next interviewed by our friend of the Quaker City as to what we think of the way one of the thirty-three snubbed us all the day before in our journey over the mountains, at the same time informing us that her husband may not be very smart but that he is at least civil.  As she has spoken our sentiments exactly we give her to understand that we too have been somewhat annoyed at the persistency by which our companion has tried to draw out and amuse our dignified tourist.  Yet she sees no harm in being snubbed and at the breakfast table starts out in a new direction to elicit his conversational powers; so while she plays the agreeable to dignity we avail ourself of mountain trout and sweet potatoes and confiscate all the extra biscuits within long reach and roll them up in our handkerchief for lunch.</P>
165.sgm:<P>While waiting for the stage we try to form a picture in our minds of the mountain scenes around us.  By moonlight we entered this beautiful valley and morning finds us surrounded by mountains and forests and instead of the accustomed song of the morning bird we hear only the music of the stream that ripples in front of the porch and sparkles in the fountain.  We walk down the mountain lawn and gather some little flowers for our collection while up the hillside roll the thundering stages and now in front of the door await our coming.</P>
165.sgm:<P>The three Augustas occupy the back seat, where they form a very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>At noon we stop for a change of horses.  We step inside the large barn to shelter us from the sun and observe one of our party looking around in stalls, barrels and boxes as if in search of hens' nests, and ask what she is looking for, when to our surprise this good sister from the cap of Pilgrim's Rock and the shadow of Bunker Hill informs us that she is looking for a man--a man to swear for her.  We ask her if she has forgotten that this is the Sabbath but are told it is no worse to swear on Sunday than any other day and that somebody ought to swear, and she thinks a man would be most apt to do the subject justice.  We again load ourselves into the stage and are on our way, only ten miles from Yosemite.  Now ten miles may be a short distance to lovers riding on the boulevard, but over bumping rocks, along beside chasms of death and destruction, enclouded in dust, hungry, tired and sick, ten miles is a long distance to travel.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Yet we continue on, for backward we cannot go.  We try to sing but our hearts are lost to song.  We have to laugh, however, when we gaze on the face of our companion who now looks like a cat that has crept down a chimney as she drinks in the mountain scenery.  We turn to our friend with face like a school-boy after his first game of marbles, while she is told by Augusta that "she would not have a nose like hers."  The whole party in fact look like children who have walked in the middle of the street on a hot summer day as they cling to the back of the seats and brace themselves in self defense,</P>
165.sgm:<P>The miles grow longer and longer, the precipices deeper and grander, until at 3 o'clock p.m. we halt at Inspiration Point, 6,000 feet above the sea and look for the first time on the rocky columns that enclose Yosemite Valley, which lies imbedded between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>It has been styled by tourists the "Monarch of Rocks" and most matchless piece of masonry on earth.  Although this rock seems smooth and square from base to summit it is possessed of many horizontal surfaces too high to be discernable.  Near one corner of this towering mass we see what are known as Ribbon Falls, but at this season water flows down at intervals, yet we see the worn rock, the discolored pathway of the mountain stream that is sometimes called the "Virgin's Tears."</P>
165.sgm:<P>At our right we behold in genuine reality a picture seen from childhood.  On the west side of Cathedral Rock there flows a stream of water nine hundred feet to the valley.  Three hundred feet from the bottom it falls on a mass of slanting debris that sends it rushing over continuous cascades through rock and forests on the mountain side until it reaches the peaceful valley.  And now as we ride along we come in full sight of this misty waterfall known at Bridal Veil Falls, whose waters, from the valley, resemble a dense and falling mist which sways to and fro in the wind like the flowing drapery of a summer bride, a companion picture of which is not found in any mountain scenery on earth.  And now we pause at the foot of these lovely falls and listen to the continuous roar in upper air, occasionally broken by the sway of the waters.  We drink from the ice cold stream, gather a fern from the rocky base and onward still to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We have now wound down and around the mountain sides until we have reached the level valley which, but for the prison walls might seem a prairie grove, and now we ride between the heights known as the "three graces" at our right and the "three brothers" at our left, rising respectively from three to four thousand feet in upper air, covered at their base with forest evergreens, through which, over a mossy carpeting, flow many little rock bottomed brooks, each adding its little part to swell the valley stream.  We now look up at the watch tower of the valley, known as sentinel rock, whose granite spire towers 1,000 feet above the valley wall and whose height alone exceeds by far all the master works of man.</P>
165.sgm:<P>It is 4 o'clock when we arrive at Leidigs and find accomodations for only two of the thirty-three  Our California friends accept the vacancy, and we bid them good-bye to see them no more, but for Augusta cherish the kindest remembrance for her genial manner and homeopathy prescriptions which healed the sick and cheered the weary.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Next we stop at Cook's but find everything full to the utmost; our last resort is Barnard's, where we soon stand and are swept off by the Chinamen.  We are assigned rooms on the second floor in the northeast corner of the hotel proper, where from a spacious porch that surrounds the building, we look down upon the ice cold Merced river, and are in constant view of Yosemite Falls, only half a mile away, and feel to rejoice that here alone we find accommodations.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We at once commence a program for our stay in the valley.  First we take our usual bath, so necessary on all occasions in California summer climate, but now more necessary than ever before in all our lives, for dirt is no name for the condition we now present as we pound the mountain dust from our clothing.  Our heads resemble a pig's back in harvest, and frizzes are unknown--in fact the only clean feature is our eyes, kept open by continual winking.  At 5 o'clock we meet our party at dinner, when introductions become necessary for recognition.  We partake of a very excellent dinner which we very much enjoy, after which we form a party and set out on foot for Yosemite Falls.  We cross the Merced on a rustic bridge, climb a fence to a green, grassy cow pasture, crawl through a hedge and are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We are joined by little Miss Alice Natile, our New Orleans friend, whom we have all learned to love for her rare intelligence and cultivated refinement scarcely found in a miss of sixteen summers.  She enters with the party into the joys of the rare occasion.  We take off our shoes and stockings and bathe our feet in the sparkling waters, and then with less fear of slipping, we climb still higher the pile of massive rocks on which the waters fall.  As the sun has set and evening shadows begin to fall, we sit in silence and drink in the beauties we shall never again see, perhaps, save in the realms of thought and remembrance.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We miss our companion and for fear some unseen danger may have befallen her, we raise our voices for her response and elicit distant echoes; we climb a little higher up the rock, and think we are near the valley wall, but when we our companion in child-like dimensions, whose attention we fail to attract with our combined voices, gathering flowers in a recess of solid rock, a little back and at one side of the Falls, we come to the conclusion that she is farther off than we anticipated and that distance here is even more deceiving than in Colorado.  Our companion sees us and joins us on the dark, gray granite rocks that lie at the foot of the Yosemite Falls.</P>
165.sgm:<P>The sun has long since given way to evening shadows, when, reluctantly, we leave this majestic place and turn our steps hotelward  We return alone over the elevated walk of the lowlands along the Merced and, while downward looking, easily imagine ourselves visiting some country friend, for up the road a small boy drives the cows, and the valley farmer gaily whistles as he stables his weary team.  As we cross the bridge we meet a resident of the valley who points us to the seemingly impassible trail east of the falls, over which the Indians climbed when driven from the valley.  We reach the hotel just in time to retaliate the hilarious receptions we have received while journeying to the valley, for the Cleverdale stages have just arrived with another dusty party not unlike all others.  Among the many dirty faces we discern the eyes of our friend, Rev. Mary Girard, of Clinton, Iowa, National Chaplain of W.R.C.  We join the sisterly shake of hands, then leave her to her toilet, while we join the evening songs of mirth unceremoniously taking place on the wide veranda.</P>
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165.sgm:<P>The evening is warm and pleasant, we sit on the porch in front of our room and listen to the constant, lonely roar of the highest waterfall in the world, and try to realize in full the favored opportunity of sitting so near the world renowned Yosemite.  Our stage party join us in general admiration and pleasant hours too quickly pass when filled with associations of culture and intellect, unfettered by worldly pride and feelings of caste and rank, alone made excellent by morality, virtue and natural genuineness.</P>
165.sgm:<P>While we enjoy the very thought of being here, happily we wander homeward and join in the song and sentiment of the sweetest and truest words that were ever penned--"Home, Sweet Home."  So at 12 o'clock we close our doors and sleep 'mid the gentle murmur of the Merced, the distant roar of Yosemite and echoed tones of "Home, Sweet Sweet Home" now sung by the tourists of the cottage that joins us on the west.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday Morning, August 16, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We are awakened by the rattle of stoves and clatter of Chinese dilect, for the kitchen is not far from the rooms we occupy; and as time is so precious now and opportunities so grand, we stand on the porch at 5 o'clock, spellbound with reverential silence.  Hundreds of snow-white ducks are already afloat on the peaceful Merced, and the milkmaid closes the bars as she leaves the cows in pasture.  The mountain guides are stirring up the hostlers to make ready for the day.  The "lone Indian" crosses the bridge with a string of trout which he leaves at the kitchen door.  Our friend makes a hasty toilet for once while our companion with unencumbered care and innocence of last transportation, looks heavenward at the mountain walls and wonders what agency placed them there.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We are joined at breakfast by our party, some of whom have just returned from a morning walk to the falls, and we all join in thankful expressions that patience and endurance landed us safely here.  Breakfast over we await conveyances for a ten mile ride through the valley.  So at 7 o'clock our party of eight are on their way to see the sun rise on Mirror Lake.  Up the valley the happy party enjoy the morning air.  We walk carefully down the rocky debris and stand at the waters edge, and while we gaze upon the placid face upon which the towering heights of either side are so beautifully reflected, we at once recognize the appropriateness of the lakelet's name, for the face of a mirror could be no more calm than the surface of this little lake.  We are now in the narrowest part of the valley with North Dome at our left, rising some four thousand feet above us, beyond <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Party after party arrive at the lake until fifty or more await the rising sun.  A little boat is tied motionless on the shore, while near the bugler stands and invites our attention to the wonderful echoes that respond to his musical endeavors.  Save the notes of the bugle and the voice of our continual explorer, who has crossed the lake by going around it, reverential silence prevails among all; and now, while we look at the granite walls we join our voices in song as never before, and sing the words that echo Columbia's fondest tie, "I love thy rocks and rills, thy woods and templed hills."  It is almost 8 o'clock and a hundred eyes are upward turned to the peaks of North Dome over which the "King of Day" is just making his appearance.  We change our position and three times hail with song the rising sun over the peaks of the eternal hills, and now we look upon the lake's face where a perfect picture of the valley, heights, evergreen bases and rising sun seems extended as far below as above the level on which we stand and as the sun rises higher and shines upon the lake the reflection becomes more grand, thought more sublime and reverence is melted into tears, found in the eyes of many.  We again raise our voices in song, "Nearer my God to Thee," every word spoken and echoed as if in unison with heavenly love.  Rev. Mary Girard stands on the shore between reflected and genuine sublimity and offers a prayer every word of which is significant of the scenes around us and the cause that has brought us hither.  She thanks God for the blessing of the morning and asks that we may all live with grateful hearts towards America's soldiers, who made our country free that we to-day may in safety see and enjoy this beautiful scenery wrought out by power divine.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We sit upon the rugged shore of this peaceful lake and note in our journal our present surroundings.  On either side are North and South Domes, whose wonderful heights and close proximity enclose the lake that lies between and send their forms reflected, down, down to the bottom of a seemingly very deep lake.  We look beyond the mighty Domes and our searching eyes reach "Cloud's Rest," over which a little cloud has just passed as if to verify the significance of the name given this last mountain in the valley which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Our driver is becoming impatient, for time is very precious, so while we enjoy the loveliest and grandest scenery of earth, we natururally turn back to domestic life and friends who may never these scenes behold, and once more to the accompaniment of the bugle echo the tones and words of "Home, Sweet Home," then reluctantly leave the sainted place for other scenes in a ten mile's drive.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We retrace our steps and pass near the Royal Arches, imbedded in the solid sides of Yosemite's vertical walls, while opposite are seen projections that might once have filled the arch.  We pass the rural spot where the park commissioners are erecting a fine hotel, which we are told, by another year will be open for the accommodation of tourists.  We ride the length of the valley through groves of spruce fir, pine and manzinita along the meandering course of the Merced River, whose source is the high Sierras and which by innumerable cascades and waterfalls reaches the valley where kindred ice cold streams help form its crystal waters.  We pass the "Hermit's rocky home," and though we are told that through the occupant's vein's courses the blood of noble birth which might welcome him to social life, yet when we study his rocky home whose maker and builder was nature alone, we can but think of a pure life within the granite glen, a life conversant with nature alone, unfettered by worldly care or pride or gossiping surroundings.  The little dog that barks at his rock-hewn door guards well his master's numerous pets of beasts and birds that roam in peace within.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Though thirty-five years have passed since the Indians were driven from the valley, we still meet an occasional relic of the tribe, with his gun and fishing tackle, and pass his rustic store house, built of sticks and leaves, where are stored his winter acorns.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Having taken the circuit of the valley we alight at Barnard's, where, in front of the hotel, are thirty-three horses already waiting to carry the party to Glacier Point.  From a little store near by the party avail themselves of large straw hats, which they tie in a double scoop under their chins.  Three hardy guides assist them to their saddles, and the party is ready for a start.  Unluckily for ourself and friend we are unable to secure horses for the trail, the party is so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We stand on the porch and hail the incoming stages, bringing another dusty party.  They follow their satchels to the platform where another dusty shake ensues, after which they register and are asigned rooms on the second floor of the cottage.  Among the arrivals of the day we read the name of Jenny June, whom we meet later in the social conversation of the dusty ride and lovely scenery encountered to reach the valley.</P>
165.sgm:<P>It is now noonday and the sun shines down upon the sultry place.  We sit upon the shady side of the long porch and notify our home friends of our present situation, after which we bare our feet and wade the Merced River, but the mountain pebbles are sharp and the waters icy cold, so our romance is short lived and full of fun.</P>
165.sgm:<P>In company with our friend we take a dusty walk, mail our letters at the little postoffice decorated with stereoscopic views of the mountain scenery, converse for a short time with the little postmistress, who has lately arrived from yankee land, visit the little country store where is kept everything from a toothpick to modern frizzes, walk by the rustic chapel, gather leaves and flowers for our herbarium and sit again on the porch of the hotel to await the mountain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We sit in social review of the day's events until the supper bell calls us together in the dining room below, where many new faces are seen that have arrived through the day, each one of which is full of marked intelligence and refinement, such people as will appreciate and learn of the wonders around us, and in home life become educators of the present and rising generations.  Again we walk through the little town in search of new sights and knowledge. We cross the street from the hotel, and are in the "big tree" parlor, a building of several rooms for the accommodation of parties spending the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Just before retiring, we stand in company with our friend on the cool porch and view Yosemite Falls by moonlight; reluctantly turning away to our rest; but sleep is impossible, so we sit by the open door and look out upon the calm, still night.  The moon behind the evergreens casts shadows across the Merced.  Above in silvery moonlight, Yosemite's waters fall, and over mammoth tumble-down rocks, they rush solemnly along.  While filled with joy and thankfulness that fortune has brought us here, we feel a sense of sadness that so soon we must leave the place forever, and wonder to ourself if the time allotted here has been spent to the best advantage.  So, in midnight reverie, we review the topics of the day and again close our eyes to sleep with a revolving panorama of scenes pictured on heart and mind.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday Morning, August 17, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>At 5 o'clock we settle our bill and await our breakfast, which, owing to the fact that we are about to leave the valley, is considerable thinner and less numerous than the morning before, for in the place of trout we pull at the meat on bones of mutton that bleated in the canon when the Indians were driven out, so we confiscate a biscuit for lunch and on the porch await the stage that is to carry us over the mountains.  We take our last long look at the granite walls, above which, at Glacier Point, the stars and stripes are waving, though we are so far below it looks like a handkerchief fluttering in upper air.  We pause in review of other heights upon which we have looked and read and make a few mathematical calculations to store away in memory, which, though true, may often startle us with thoughts of exaggeration, when we speak of the wall and heights of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Though, owing to the fact of the joyous associations, patriotic demonstrations, lovely valleys, deep canons, rolling mountain heights, perpendicular walls and waterfalls, that have been constantly before us the last month, we scarcely realize these rare opportunities of a lifetime.  So we fix in our mind, as well as our journal, a simple fact of perpendicular height, sent heavenward by the powers of nature, ten times higher than America's memorial shaft, and while we sigh a fond farewell to Yosemite's lovely valley, the thundering stage of six-horse power comes rolling up to the door.  Comfortably seated with our companion and friend we stop at Cook's for the rest of our party who are to journey with us to-day, none of whom we have ever met before.  They register in our autograph album as follows: E. A. Dubey and daughter Jessie, and Stephen Burrows and daughter Hattie, of Brooklyn, N.Y.; George Creamer, Baltimore, Md.; W. C. and Harry Richardson, Chicago, Ills.; John Woods of Darwen, England, all of whom we find pleasant and agreeable.</P>
165.sgm:<P>So now we are on our way to Los Angeles, doubly happy to think we came and saw and shall have conquered if we again cross the Sierras in safety.  At 8 o'clock a.m. we again halt at Inspiration Point and take our last long farewell look at the world renowned Yosemite; then onward through nature's avenues of mammoth evergreens of spruce and pine, which embalm the air with nature's perfumes, up hills and down dales, around curves and over chasms, we continue our dusty way, with no thoughts of fear though everlasting destruction awaits the least accident that might occur to the rolling vehicle or the faithful six that whirl us along.</P>
165.sgm:<P>At 10 o'clock we reach the seven mile grade.  Our driver, heretofore so pleasant and conversant of passing scenes, commands for himself silence, for his whole mind and attention must be given to the task of landing us safe at the foot of the grade.  This is the place where, one year ago, a timid woman gave our driver ten dollars extra to walk his horses over this mountain, which in the kindness of his heart he did at his peril, though he reached the foot in safety, there making a vow he would never again so risk his life, for safety is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Occasionally we see the stages ahead of us actually tip as they round the curves, we wave them safety and follow on.  Our noted Englishman who has been traveling for seventeen months through Europe, Australia and the Sandwich Islands, becomes very interesting in relating his travels, the one fact of which we place in memory; that of all the scenery he has met Yosemite caps the whole.  In combination with his wonderful store of knowledge, he possess the disposition to amuse and propounds to the party many conundrums that fill the stage with laughter.</P>
165.sgm:<P>So now we are safe at the foot of the grade where man and horse are refreshed from the mountain brook, and we gather some leaves for our blank book and lovely ferns to press.  A few miles farther on we meet the incoming stage, where it is necesary for us to alight until they have safely passed, for the road is narrow and the precipice at our right immense.  We climb the grade at our left and cling to the trees for safety.  The stages have safely passed and again we load up and continue our journey.  We arrive at Clark's at 12 o'clock, where we are again swept off by the "heathen Chinee."  Our host, Clark, takes in our dimensions and calls for an extra broom, while at least fifty tourists join in a general laugh at the position of our bonnet and dilapidated condition, so on the principle of "no fool no fun," we join heartily in the hilarity of the scene.  We again register and are assigned our previous rooms in the cottage, where we take a passable wash and enter the dining room for dinner.  Our first glance, however, at the tables assures us they were set for the passengers of the outgoing stages, for again we wrestle with mutton and all that was left from breakfast.  The cry is all aboard and as we subsist principally upon scenery now, we seize our satchel and broken handled parasol and again climb into the stage.  Our companion, however, more used to ruling than being ruled, leisurely ties her bonnet over her vertical frizzes, and pulls her last foot in the stage as we whirl around Wawona park and are off for Mariposa Grove, nine miles east of Clark's.  Again over dusty, winding roads, around <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>The sides of the most of the large trees have been used for fire places by the Indians, and the charred remains extend far up their sides, and still they live; but for twenty years no Indian has dared fire one of these trees, for the Government now guards well these giants of the Sierras.  Many of these trees are apparently young and thrifty as the evergreens in our city parks, all reaching the enormous heights of from one to three hundred feet, and as straight as a die.  We stop at the log cabin of the guardian of the grove and obtain genuine specimens from Mariposa, gather cones two feet in length, pick some mountain flowers, then climb to the stage to continue our journey.  A Normal school girl of our party expresses a wish to note the names of the largest trees, while our Englishman kindly dictates <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>Here, in place of silent rocks we gaze on living trees, and none may tell the rise and fall, prosperity or decay of nations, or geological disturbances that may have been since these trees first stood sentinel to the surrounding forests; and now, as we leave this gigantic grove, again we raise our voices in song, reverential of the past and suppliant of the future.  "Let music swell the breeze and ring from all the trees sweet freedom's song."  We arrive at Clark's in time for supper, hasten our toilet by the removal of dust, launch our mammoth cones in the fountain spring for moisture, and enter the dining room to find again new arrivals and mutton chops.  We walk through the parlors of spacious dimensions, where, seated at numerous tables, are many tourists posting their journals and friends at home.  We pencil a card of few words and join the party for the studio where are found numerous views, landscapes and photographs of Emerald Valley; and romantic and picturesque scenes of the surrounding Sierras.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We promenade the long walks by moonlight and listen to the musical tones of the piano that echo the valley through.  We sit on the porch in front of our door in peaceful silence and wonder if moonlight scenes were ever more fair, for on all sides the mountains roll heavenward and guard us from the outer world.  No excitement prevails, no startling news, and cares and anxieties are unknown, for every tourist seems lost to the world and wrapped in nature's wonders.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Within this Emerald vale we have no fear, for education, refinement and culture keep us safe with unlocked doors, and, as we lie on our pillow to-night with closed eyes, silently reviewing the scenes and associations of the day, we can but think how blessed the earth if purity of thought in this valley to-night could encompass the world around.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday, August 18, 1887.</HI>
165.sgm:<P>After a night of general disturbance, occasioned by the late incoming stages, the watchman raps the second time at our door and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We register at a hotel, the only house in the place, and find firstclass accommodations.  We now have time to think and talk over our situation.  We find our clothing, which we have worn a week, anything but tidy, our hosiery perforated and shoes worn off at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, August 19, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>Early dawn finds us moving along through Tulare Valley near the lake of the same name, a place where every year many come in search of health.  We are particularly interested in the account given us by a passenger of the part of Tulare Valley known as the Artesian District which comprises a tract of land from ten to fifteen miles wide and thirty-five long, lying some six miles north of the lake.  There are over a hundred of these wells ranging in depth from 300 to 500 feet.  A large part of the valley seems a treeless, fertile plain over which run many pleasant streams, while we see many dry, sandy sloughs where water seems once to have been, and though so near the mountains on both sides no stones fetter the soil, and the earliest fruits of the season are found in this fertile valley.  On our right is an immense grove of oaks--nature-formed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We now ride through sandy plains where no type of vegetation save the ungraceful Yucca meets our eyes.  We notice that some of the passengers call this tree a palm and some a cactus, but, by referring to our knowledge of botany, we find it neither, but a strange, straggling mixture of its own, well fitted to grace the barren, uninviting country through which we now pass.  On inquiring we find that, like everything else, this awkward specimen of the vegetable world is good for something, for its spiral bark is stripped from its ten to twenty feet trunk and used for paper making, and is said to make a superior class for bank-note use.  At noon we arrive at Mojave Junction, the only eating station we have struck since we entered the San Joaquin Valley, and are consequently very hungry.  We re-check our baggage for Los Angeles, pay extra storage and hasten for our dinner, but find that, owing the "California deliberate movements" of the baggagemaster we have just time for a glass of milk; so now we are again on our way around "Robin Hood's barn" to reach Los Angeles.  The Yucca grows more numerous and the white sand deeper as we journey on, occasionally we strike a fertile spot where civilization seems to reign.  We pass several bee ranches where many men and women are busy caring for the crop of honey, and preparing it for the market, but we have no desire to live or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We have now arrived at San Bernardino, where, on a beautiful plain at the foot of the hills, lies a lovely little city of 6,000 inhabitants, noted for its unsurpassable climate and orange groves, where hundreds of Artesian wells project water that flows in refreshing streams along otherwise dusty streets and thrifty orchards.  We reach San Bernardino summit at 6:30 p.m., and now, in the next twenty-four miles, we descend from snow to orange groves.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Here is where the Mormans first settled in 1847.  Here the oldest orange groves were planted of all the valley.  Arriving at Colton we stay for supper and find numerous boys ang girls peddling all kinds of the choicest fruits of the place.  We obtain a supply for the rest of our journey, and now travel west to our destination, reaching Los Angeles at 11 o'clock at night, tired and weary with a twenty-four hour's ride through an almost desert country to reach the renowned and celebrated haven of health for invalids.  We step from the train and are met by our friends who, after a mile of street car ride, land us at the Stevenson House, where we find pleasant rooms and comfortable lodgings,  We bid good night to friends and are soon asleep in Los Angeles.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday August 20, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>At 5 o'clock we are ready for breakfast, and as meals are not served at this hotel for travelers, we are directed by our landlord to Popular Restaurant where we once more recognize a porter house steak, of which we partake with double relish, for we are far from the side hill sheep pastures of the Sierras.  We claim our baggage at the transfer office, hastily make our toilet, and are ready for the day.  At 8 o'clock we await the train for Santa Monica, one of the finest resorts of the Pacific coast.  The train is long and filled with passengers going to the coast to spend the day.  We ride through continual orange groves and fruits orchards loaded with fruits of all kinds, oranges, figs, lemon, plums, olives, peaches and grapes, until we reach the little town of 1,000 inhabitants which lies upon the sandy bluffs around the horseshoe curve of the Pacific coast.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Here we find a happy place to spend a summer day.  Along the coast is a village of tents which are homes for the hundreds that are spending the summer here.  A long canopy built of boards extends along the shore, where, protected from the sun, we may sit and watch the many as they go in and out of the water.  Here on the sands are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Saturday, August 21, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We breakfast at Popular restaurant at 7 o'clock, after which we walk to the general ticket office and secure sleeper accommodations for our home journey and for once we are on time and thus avoid the necessity of being obliged to again occupy "sky parlors."  Returning to our hotel we find a carriage in waiting for a trip to the Ostrich Farm, seven miles from the city.  Passing through the old Spanish part of the town we ride over roads rough, hilly and winding, with sand at least a foot deep along the banks of the river, beside the irrigating tunnels that carry water to the city.  All along the road men are engaged in manufacturing and placing of cedar boxes on the the mountain sides, through which a larger and more constant supply of water can be obtained.  In our four hour's ride we pass many lovely little fruit orchards lying along the river where men and women are busy gathering and packing the fruit for market.  We stop at a gate that connects two larger fields of white sand, in one of which are some fine shade trees, where we leave our horses and walk down to the gate that admits us to the ostrich farm.</P>
165.sgm:<P>A raw, green Dutchman pockets fifty cents and we pass through, walk a long distance through the same old California dust, and stand at the double fence that surrounds the ostrich pasture, around and through which walk thirty-five of these mammoth birds, the most ungainly, awkward, homely looking creatures we have ever seen.  We query the guide concerning them, but all he can say is "yah;" a pretty specimen of a guide to interest tourists who spend time and money to visit the place.  We accost a stranger standing near who seems to know something about these animals.  The extra fence, he says, is to prevent people from being kicked by the birds, but we think it is to keep tourists from stealing the feathers, though we can't for the life of us see where they could get them, for the poor birds are naked from knees to hips and bill to wings, and what few feathers are on them hang in loose drapery over their awkward backs; but it is sufficient for us to know that we have seen a genuine live ostrich farm in California, where undoubtedly in time the common farmer will number his ostriches in his invoice of live stock, for the dearth of plumes is always owing to the lack of food in countries where they are reared, for a half starved bird never produces fine feathers, and in the fact we have learned to-day that it not only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We walk through the park and visit the homes of the various birds, parrots, squirrels, monkeys, etc., but find nothing on the whole farm but what can be seen at home, save the ostriches and surrounding hills.  The country is rough and broken and slopes to and from the foot hills that extend across the country.  We are unable to say what kind of a place this might be in wet weather, but now, while rain is not known, all we can say is: dust, dust; why the people of Illinois' prairies know nothing about dust, not even in July when there has not been a drop of rain for three solid months.  We now retrace our steps toward Los Angeles.  All along the roads are the tents of workmen (employed in making and placing water troughs) from the top of which floats a little flag, while under a tree near by the men are eating their dinner.  The patriotism displayed in the waving of this little flag on the tent of the workmen speaks to us more than the finest banner from the highest pinnacle.  So we sing once more, as we pass it by, "Three cheers for the red, white and blue," while the men rise from their seats and wave us out of sight among the trees that shade the banks of the Los Angeles.  We arrive in the city at 1 o'clock and secure dinner and then devote the rest of the afternoon in visiting places in and around the city.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We find this place a continuous garden of about six square miles of land laid out in beautiful streets, running around blocks, many of which are parks in themselves, containing many lovely homes.  In place of houses built in blocks, its finest residences, which are many, stand in the midst of lovely lawns surrounded by hedges of flowers, cypress and evergreens which, summer and winter alike, are profuse with blooming fragrance, while beside the street we see the graceful pepper tree and tall eucalyptus.  Aside from country orange groves we see the yellow fruit growing throughout the city.  We ride by the University of Northern California which stands in a thicket of loveliest foliage.  We are pointed to mountains only ten miles away that in winter are covered with snow, while oranges blossom here.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We pass by Sunny Slope, a perfect realm of beauty, among groves and vines.  In an eastern home there is much fascination in the very name of orange grove, yet it loses half its force when reality is experienced, for, in place of sitting on the green grass while the golden fruit drops around you from among the deep green foliage, a field of sand lies beneath, on which a blade of grass is not allowed to grow.  To sum up the town we might call it a little paradise made doubly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We supper at 6 o'clock, then take the cars for a cable ride over the foot hill grades to the city's utmost limit, where we see the blue Pacific, twenty miles away.  We secure lunch and fruits for our home trip and return to our hotel to pack our trunks for the last time, for to-morrow morning we start for home.  Our cones are tied, our seaweeds wrapped, trunk strapped, our satchels laden, lunch boxed and we are ready for an early start.  We visit with the many tourists in the parlor, some of whom we have met before; we all unite in common admiration of California's noble people, and regret much that nature has placed so many desert regions between us and them.  We retire at 10 o'clock and take our last night's rest in glorious California.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Sunday, August 22, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We breakfast at 5 o'clock this morning, settle our bills and are ready for a start.  The "Buss" driver cries "all aboard" and we are on our way to the depot where we arrive safely with our numerous baggage and await the clerk to secure our checks, who remarks as he lifts our trunks that we must have a Chinaman inside and guarantees the safe passage of all such baggage.  Poor "John" is snubbed on all sides and wanted nowhere.  We are now nicely situated in the sleeper "Mt. Vernon" and at 6 o'clock the train moves slowly from the depot.  We stand on the back end of the train and sigh a fond farewell to Los Angeles, its lovely homes and orange groves, its tropical fruits and trees, its ever fragrant blossoms, its mild and beautiful climate, its mountain shadows and ocean breezes, withal a happy place where December's cold and summer's heat combine to form a mild retreat for the invalid from all climes.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Here the weary forget hardships and life becomes a continual May profuse with ever-blooming roses.  As we round a curve that hides from view the last spire of the "Angel City" and valley scenes and life fade away toward the scorching desert sand, we recall the grand and unselfish welcome California gave the nation's army while they strewed their path with flowers and in our hearts place one more fond remembrance of glorious California and her most hospitable people.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We locate our satchels and lunch baskets, tie up our hats and parasols, don our thinnest garments and prepare to be as comfortable as possible, for the day bids fair to be very warm and already we breath the desert dust that must continue while we ride through regions of Cacti, concrete and lava, in all of which, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Monday, August 23, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>The oppressive heat of a long and restless night, spent in a close sleeper, finds us somewhat weary, as we step to the platform to breathe the morning air.  Our train, too, seems tired as it slowly ascends the grade of "Arizona Divide," up which it has faithfully toiled during the last night.  We are rejoiced to know we have passed the desolate region and again rest our weary, longing eyes on green grass and mountain evergreens, for we are now in Arizona, where once more the scenery becomes diversified and picturesque.  The sun gladdens the distant hills, while shadows protect us from its scorching rays.</P>
165.sgm:<P>At 9 o'clock we arrive at Williams' where we stop for breakfast.  We join the "double quick" rush of the passengers and are soon seated at the table upon which a first-class breakfast is served.  With our eye on the conductor of our train we avail ourselves according to our capacity, and, while he finishes his breakfast, we note our surroundings in black and white.  We find we are six thousand feet higher than at midnight, and, in place of smothered air on the low banks of the Colorado, we now enjoy the mountain breeze where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>We board our train, now drawn by three engines and continue our journey.  At Flagstaff we are within eight miles of the home of the famous "Cliff dwellers," which is found in the sides of the walls of an immense canon, which have at one time been the shelter for the people which might have populated a large city.  These dwellings occupy the strata between hard rock, where a space has been left by the erosion of soft rock about half way up the sides of the canon.  The occupants of these homes have long since passed away and no one may tell from whence they came or whither they have gone but enough is left to prove to us that they possessed habits of industry, and, according to fabrics woven in forms, their wheels for spinning, flowered pottery, and working utensils of stone, we know they must have been people of common intelligence; and the articles they used then are among the Pueblos to-day.  These extinct races become more curious and wonderful when we study their homes and know they sought places of safety and defence from enemies which must have surrounded them.  The scenery here is very fine.  We pass near the grove of petrified trees which covers a thousand acres.  The trees of these woods have fallen and petrified and assumed all the colors found in nature, which, as they lie scattered in fallen masses over the ground, represent the precious stones with which we ornament to-day.  In the distance we see clouds which look like rain, and only the traveler through desert sands can truly appreciate a summer cloud.  We pass near many canons and steep precipices at the base of which lies green and pleasant valleys, and at noonday stand on the steps of our sleeper to note the deep and and rugged fissure known as "Canon Diablo" or the Devil's Canon.  As the train moves slowly over this deep ravine over two hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>The distant clouds are coming near as we journey on and the afternoon finds us among heavy clouds that shed abundant rain, the first we have seen in four long weeks; in fact the fall of water is so great that the train men predict a "wash out" no great distance ahead.  We travel through a country of pine forests and open plains, the great and silent record of the primeval world with a story of past ages written on Arizona soil.  This was once a part of the Paleozoic Sea, which extended from pole to pole, on whose waters no vessel ever sailed or man ever trod its shore, yet life, long since extinct, remains in concealed and petrified forms to prove the facts of the once existing inland sea.  We journey on and on, near, around and through the eroded forms that turbulent waves made cliffs, to attract the traveler's eye and fill his mind with wonder.</P>
165.sgm:<P>It is with no small degree of interest we note the fact that nearly every house we see is built with a double roof, and by this we do not mean two coats of shingles.  The house is built and roofed the same as the first and held in position so that the air may circulate freely between the two.  We have already formed favorable opinions of Arizona and but for this double roof arrangement we might be induced to locate here, but passengers on a moving train know very little of the scorching rays of an almost tropical sun.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We dinner at Holbrook and then onward and upward toward the "continental divide."  We pass many Indian villages which lie at the base of the brown rocks, the wigwams built of limbs and brush, the cross sticks over which hang the skins of their prey.  The garden fields and jaded ponies bespeak more of life and real happiness than many homes of the white man we saw while traveling through Nevada and Utah.  As wild and romantic as this country may seem now we feel assured that time and emigration will develop its resources to wealth and position of any state in our Union, for to-day we see it as nature left it when the great sea sought other channels and the dry land appeared.  At Acoma we pass a canon three miles wide with perpendicular sides which is descended by a serpentine path to where the canon opens into a beautiful valley through which wends a mountain stream whose banks are studded with evergreens and grassy meadows slope to the surrounding hills.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<P>A long passenger car is arranged near the station for a dining room.  We climb some narrow steps and find a good supper spread before us.  Here we meet our friend the Englishman who journeyed with us from Yosemite.  He recognizes us at once and asks of our travels, and says he is just from the canons of the Colorado.  The evening is spent in social conversation and song.  At 11 o'clock our companion says we must retire and so we obey orders and are soon behind the screens where we put in most of the night in coughing, until we secure our friend's bottle of Pond's Extract, which in due time brings happy relief, not only to us but the occupants of our sleeper, who have all night wished we were overboard.  Our train stops at 2 o'clock, we know not why, but in quiet we sleep till morning.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Tuesday August 24, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We awaken this morning to find our delay caused by the "washout" predicted at the time of the enjoyable shower we passed through yesterday in Arizona.  We are now at Albuquerque, where we have been since 2 o'clock this morning, having passed over the land of plateaus whose elevations are probably original rock, laid in water many thousand feet below their present altitude, losing not their horizontal structure during their elevation, the mountains which surround them in angles and spurs, being caused by immense quantities of rock violently forced through the plateaus by volcanic agency; for in their structure we recognize the same old granite rock.  This place is the metropolis of the upper Rio Grande valley.  We try to ascertain how long we are to remain here, and find we have ample time for breakfast and a survey of the city.  We find an old and a new town, the former the most interesting on account of its quaint dwellings and foreign appearance.  The soil is sandy and, at present, covered with water, through which we wend our way to secure a greasy breakfast.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Wednesday August 25, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>We are disturbed by the bustle of local passengers who hasten to their stations leaving us in possession of the dressing room at 7 o'clock, where we make ready for the day, while our friends are yet asleep.  The conductor announces the fact that we breakfast at Coolidge, Kansas, just across the Colorado line, so we awaken our friends who "dress up" for the occasion, in clean socks and handkerchiefs.  We enter the station dining room where a steaming breakfast awaits us.  Once more the smell of fragrant Rio and surloin cut tempts our wavering appetite, and we partake of all that is set before us in accordance with the facts.  We return to our sleeper to find the trio hold the fort alone, where we spend the day in general reception to our many friends who have crowded quarters in the through sleeper to Kansas City.  Our little Orr, in the general activity of his body, has worn himself nearly threadbare, and is the source of much amusement for the passengers; yet, with all, he enjoys a good appetite on all occasions and at all times.  An accident has occurred to the Captain's satchel, one over which he seriously grieves, not so much for the disfigurement of his paraphernalia as for the loss of the "souvenir" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Thursday, August 26, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>At 3 o'clock there is a general bustle for we are nearing the place for change of cars, so we select our clothing from the general deposit, wash our face with a towel which "Peck's bad boy" has held under the faucet until the porter leads him away by the ear, strap up our satchels, throw our lunch baskets out the window and are ready to claim our baggage when the tired party alight at Kansas City.  And now we stand among hundreds of passengers who have come from all directions during the night over twelve different railroads which focus here, and so, with satchels and shawl-straps in hand and bonnet on one side of our head, frizzes upright, looking like a last year's bird's nest, we represent one of the many nationalities which surround us.  We stack our luggage on the platform, leave our friend on guard, and await our turn for re-checking our trunks.</P>
165.sgm:<P>While waiting we are wonderfully amused at the innocence and suspicion of a poor old lady, who says: "This is the first time I have ever bothered these plagued railaoads and now am going to travel right.  They needn't think they are going to put my trunk in that cattle car for I intend to take it right along with me so I can watch it."  The baggagemaster, however, gives it a boost for the truck; but, no sooner does it land, than the old lady yanks it to the platform with a jerk, and gives vent to her opinions of these railroad thieves.  While doubly assuring her that it will be all right, he again places it on the truck and wheels it up to the car.  The old lady watches him load the contents of the truck into the car, but, just as he gives her chest a tip, she seizes it by the strap and says: "No you don't, you rascal; that trunk goes right along with me."  She pulls the paper out of the check strap and starts down the platform toward the coach, dragging the trunk after her, 'mid the shouts of laughter and swearing of the baggagemaster.  The conductor comes along, secures the trunk, assures the old lady she will get left and assists her to the train, where she leans over the steps, as she sees her trunk placed in a front car, and says: "Never you mind, old fellow, I know everything that is in that chest, and just you take anything if you dare.  I'll find out as soon as I get to Kidder and make you suffer for it."  We at last secure our checks and with our friend enter the coach where sits the old lady, indignant with rage at these pesky railroads and their set of thieves.  She sits in the middle of a seat, on one side of which is a basket sewed up with cheese cloth, on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>We can but feel amused at our surroundings while our tired friend seeks the front end of the car and adjusts her chair for a sleep, while we conclude to sum up the last of our journey with the events of the day.  It is August; just the time of year that Missouri people hold their annual agricultural exhibitions, so at nearly every station we find a crowd going to the fair.  Men, women, children, satchels, water-proofs, gossamers, canes, parasols, umbrellas, plug hats, etc., etc. and young men with their best girls dressed in white and slippers old men with tobacco juice running down the corners of the mouths, women with children in arms and by hand, fathers with pipes in their mouths followed by boys teasing for nickels who are dressed up in long pants and vests, looking like so many clothes pins, all followed by a mob who farm in Kansas, but eat and drink in Missouri when water is scarce and whisky plentiful.  As we arrive at stations the passengers alight, one foot at a time, dragging their offspring after them.  The men run their hands down their butternut pockets and face the train with mouths ajar, while the women locate their babies on the left hip and start up the street toward the fair grounds, with from three to six small children scuffling dust behind them.  Arriving at Kidder we stand on the platform and wave our Michigan friends (who have accompanied us this far) a fond farewell, and as the train moves on we see the old lady, surrounded with her budgets, going through her trunk to see if all is there, while the train men and passengers are laughing outright.  Nearing Chillicothe we encounter the passengers of another fair.  We occupy a seat with one of the boys, who, during the next ten miles, amuses the crowd by whistling through an improvised flute he has made from a tin dipper handle he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Arriving at Laclede we enjoy a hearty dinner after which we return to our train and are once more on our way.  The little ones have fallen asleep and we now have time to note the beauty of the rolling prairie of Missouri, over which we travel so rapidly, for, notwithstanding the bushwhacker name Missouri must ever wear, we can but praise its lovely land and place it a little ahead of any we have yet passed over, for we fully believe that enterprise and intellect alone will make this state the pride of the Union.</P>
165.sgm:<P>We cross the "father of waters" at Quincy at 6 o'clock p.m., and and once more in our loved state of Illinois.  Here we obtain supper, after which our friends take through sleepers for Chicago.  They locate their baggage in their new quarters and return to bid us a parting good night and secure the promise of a visit should we ever come to Boston, for when morning dawns they will nearing Chicago, while we are only thirty miles from home.</P>
165.sgm:<P>The night drags wearily, for a change of cars in the night deprives us of sleeper, so, at 11 o'clock we arrive at Galesburg, where we stand on a side track two solid hours awaiting a train.  Our friend occupies a whole seat and is soon asleep.  We silently nod until the arrival of the train to which our car is attached for Peoria.  At 2 o'clock, tired and weary, we sleep in Peoria.</P>
165.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Friday Morning, August 27, 1886</HI>
165.sgm:<P>A loud rap at our door at 5 o'clock awakens us from heavy sleep where in dreams we have reviewed the past.  Reluctantly we leave our rest, feeling for the first time really tired since we left home six weeks ago.  Nodding and gaping we look through the blinds and our sleepy eyes rest upon the low waters of the Illinois River, over which Peoria's clouds of smoke and dust are sluggishly rising between us and the morning sun.  As we pack our satchels for the last time we recall the many cheerful faces which met us here, with whom we joined and traveled to the Pacific coast; and notwithstanding the "Denver divide" we can but cherish in our heart the kindest feeling toward all and wish for them many returns of the happiness that accompanied our journey through.  For the last time we lift our satchels to the train which at seven o'clock bears us from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>Thirty miles are soon made and at 8:30 a.m. we step from the last train and are soon in our own quiet home in Illinois, in the midst of broad prairies dotted with thousands of parks which from length to breadth represent in full the poetical valleys of California on a grand and unexaggerated scale.  Though no high mountains shut in our fields or deserts lie beyond, our picturesque river bluffs are quite sufficient to remove the seeming monotony which some might claim among our thousands of acres of wheat and corn that now has ripened and is ripening to support the grandest state in the Union.</P>
165.sgm:<P>An now, having recorded a somewhat broken and disconnected account of our travels to, on and from the "Golden Shore," in company with many different parties casually joined from thousands of tourists among whom we have found and enjoyed the society of those of highest culture and refinement, we once more take up the realities of a busy life, while we store away in memory events, wonders, sights and scenes as will tend to brighten the journey of time and form a store house of thought, from which in old age, we may recall many happy events to brighten our flickering lamp of life</P>
165.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
165.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
165.sgm:<P>California is still accessable and each year will undoubtedly, from time to time, record longer lists of tourists to the Pacific shore.  Many may come and many may go, but in all probability the Grand Army of the Republic will never again parade in her lovely valleys, recipient of her grandest of hospitalities, for we are constantly reminded in our everyday life, that our honored heroes are indeed passing away.  Over the zenith, they now march down the shady slope of life, their bowed forms and silvered locks assure us they are fast ripening for eternity.  One by one they pass death's portals and are ushered to the eternal camping ground; while behind they leave a principle that tradition shall emulate when the marble has crumbled to soil and records are no more.  From our liberty stained soil their heroic principles, unfettered by selfishness or gain, shall emanate to brighten and bless future posterity.</P>
165.sgm:<P>Each tender flower we drop in springtime in memory of our heroes will leave a tender principle as sacred as its fragrance, to vibrate on the patriotic harp of time, when the Grand Army is no more.</P>
165.sgm:<P>So, in delightful memory of a six weeks' tour with the Grand Army of the Republic, and their honored auxiliary, the Woman's Relief Corps, to attend the Twentieth National Encampment, whose every moment was one of happiness, we close our journal at the end of a trip of a lifetime.</P>
165.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
166.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-166</TITLE>
166.sgm:<TITLE>On the old west coast; being further reminiscences of a ranger, Major Horace Bell.  Edited by Lanier Bartlett: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
166.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
166.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
166.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
166.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
166.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
166.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>30-23564</LCCN>
166.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
166.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 28081</COPYRIGHT>
166.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><P><HI REND="italics">THE HISTORIES OF MR.</HI>
166.sgm:<LB><HSEP>(From Old</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. BROWN'S STORY</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CONCLUSION OF MR. B'S STORY WILL BE FOUND ON THE BACK END-SHEET</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">BROWN AND MR. JONES</HI>
166.sgm:<LB>Engravings)</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. JONES' STORY</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. J.'S STORY IS ALSO CONTINUED AT THE END OF THIS VOLUME</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Major Horace Bell at seventy years of age.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>ON THE</P>
166.sgm:<P>OLD WEST</P>
166.sgm:<P>COAST</P>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Being further Remi-<LB>niscences of a Ranger</HI>
166.sgm:<P>MAJOR HORACE BELL.</P>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Edited by</HI>
166.sgm:<P>LANIER BARTLETT</P>
166.sgm:<P>1930</P>
166.sgm:<P><illus entity="a166-0006" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
166.sgm:<P>WILLIAM MORROW &amp; CO.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT<HSEP>1930</P>
166.sgm:<P>BY WILLIAM MORROW &amp; COMPANY, INC.</P>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">All rights reserved.  This book, or parts thereof, must not be reproduced in any form without permission of the publisher</HI>
166.sgm:<P>PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. BY</P>
166.sgm:<P>QUINN &amp; BODEN COMPANY, INC.</P>
166.sgm:<P>RAHWAY, N.J.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">We deem it the duty of the truthful historian to show posterity life as it existed in the times of which he writes, and in doing this he must honor his enemies and spare not his friends</HI>
166.sgm:<P>HORACE BELL.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Contents</HI>
166.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB><HI REND="italics">INTRODUCTION</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>xi<LB>CHAPTER<LB><HI REND="italics">1.  LOS CALIFORNIOS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>1<LB><HI REND="italics">2.  RUIN OF THE RANCHEROS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>8<LB><HI REND="italics">3.  A SERIOUS MATTER IS MEXICAN GRATITUDE</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>19<LB><HI REND="italics">4.  BANDITS, DUELISTS AND FILIBUSTERS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>32<LB><HI REND="italics">5.  HOLY MASS AND THREE CARD MONTE</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>41<LB><HI REND="italics">6.  HOW RAN RUNNELS DECORATED THE RAMPARTS OF PANAMA</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>53 <LB><HI REND="italics">7.  HISTORIC TREASURE BURIED IN CAHUENGA PASS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>60<LB><HI REND="italics">8.  LOS ANGELES DURING THE CIVIL WAR</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>72<LB><HI REND="italics">9.  THE FELIZ CURSE</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>85<LB><HI REND="italics">10.  TRAGIC FATE OF MEXICAN JOE</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>99<LB><HI REND="italics">11.  THAT GRAND CALIFORNIAN, THE GRIZZLY BEAR</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>106<LB><HI REND="italics">12.  THE LAST WORDS OF RAMON CARRILLO</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>114<LB><HI REND="italics">13.  A TALE FROM NICARAGUA ABOUT TAILS IN KENTUCKY</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>127<LB><HI REND="italics">14.  PEG-LEG SMITH, THE DEATH VALLEY PARTY AND JOHN GOLLER'S MINE</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>136<LB><HI REND="italics">15.  REALLY IMPORTANT EVENTS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>146<LB><HI REND="italics">16.  A DEATH SENTENCE AT MONTEREY AND A SPORTING EVENT AT GILROY'S</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>153<LB><HI REND="italics">17.  LIFE AND DEATH IN THE CITY OF THE ANGELS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>164<LB><HI REND="italics">18.  LEONIS THE BASQUE, KING OF CALABASAS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>181<LB><HI REND="italics">19.  SPIT IN THE MOUTH OF HELL</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>194<LB><HI REND="italics">20.  A MALAY YANKEE AND THE GREAT PERALTA LAND FRAUD</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>207<LB><HI REND="italics">21.  "THE LAW WEST OF THE PECOS"</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>218 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">22.  SOME EARLY MAYORS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>240<LB><HI REND="italics">23.  MATRIMONIAL SHARKS AS BAD AS SHYLOCKS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>255<LB><HI REND="italics">24.  ORANGES ON JOSHUA TREES</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>267<LB><HI REND="italics">25.  "KINGS OF THE COMMONWEALTH"</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>281<LB><HI REND="italics">26.  IN PRAISE OF THE MORMONS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>293<LB><HI REND="italics">NOTES</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>308<LB><HI REND="italics">INDEX</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>330<illus entity="a166-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Andronico Sepu&acute;lveda</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Illustrations</HI>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">MAJOR HORACE BELL AT SEVENTY YEARS OF AGE<HSEP>Frontispiece</HI>
166.sgm:<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB><HI REND="italics">DON YGNACIO DEL VALLE</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>2<LB><HI REND="italics">DON JOSE DE LA GUERRA Y NORIEGA</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>2<LB><HI REND="italics">CHURCH OF OUR LADY THE QUEEN OF THE ANGELS, LOS ANGELES</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>3<LB><HI REND="italics">A NOTABLE MANSION</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>3<LB><HI REND="italics">ABEL STEARNS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>6<LB><HI REND="italics">GENERAL MARIANO GUADALUPE VALLEJO</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>6<LB><HI REND="italics">CALIFORNIAN MODE OF CATHCHING CATTLE</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>7<LB><HI REND="italics">REPRODUCTION OF A PAGE FROM MAJOR BELL'S MANUSCRIPT</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>9<LB><HI REND="italics">A "BROADSIDE" OF THE CALIFORNIA GOLD DAYS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>23<LB><HI REND="italics">SAN FRANCISCO IN APRIL 1850, SHOWING CLAY STREET</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>24<LB><HI REND="italics">THE POST OFFICE, CORNER OF PIKE AND CLAY STREETS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>24<LB><HI REND="italics">EMIGRANT TRAIN</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>25<LB><HI REND="italics">SCENE IN THE GOLD MINES</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>25<LB><HI REND="italics">JOAQUIN MURRIETA--FROM A PAINTING BY A PADRE</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>32<LB><HI REND="italics">JOAQUIN MURRIETA AS PICTURED BY AN EARLY-DAY ARTIST</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>33<LB><HI REND="italics">MEIGGS' WHARF</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>36<LB><HI REND="italics">A PROCLAMATION OF JUNE 9TH, 1856</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>37<LB><HI REND="italics">ESCORTING JUDGE TERRY AND OTHER PRISONERS TO THE VIGILANCE ROOMS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>39<LB><HI REND="italics">JUDGE SMITH TERRY</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>40<LB><HI REND="italics">A HANGING</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>40 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">STABBING OF OFFICER HOPKINS BY JUDGE TERRY</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>41<LB><HI REND="italics">FANCY BALL, CALIFORNIA EXCHANGE, SAN FRANCISCO</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>60<LB><HI REND="italics">LODGING ROOM IN SAN FRANCISCO</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>60<LB><HI REND="italics">SUFFERING IMMIGRANTS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>61<LB><HI REND="italics">FRENCH SHOEBLACKS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>61<LB><HI REND="italics">GENERAL WILLIAM WALKER OF NICARAGUAN FAME</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>65<LB><HI REND="italics">PANORAMA OF LOS ANGELES IN THE '50'S</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>72<LB><HI REND="italics">MAJOR HORACE BELL ABOUT THE TIME OF THE CIVIL WAR</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>73<LB><HI REND="italics">GEORGIA HERRICK BELL</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>80<LB><HI REND="italics">FAMOUS WINERY OF JEAN LOUIS VIGNES</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>81<LB><HI REND="italics">REPRODUCTION OF A PAGE FROM MAJOR BELL'S MANUSCRIPT</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>97<LB><HI REND="italics">GENERAL JOSE ANTONIO CARRILLO</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>120<LB><HI REND="italics">JOSE SEPULVEDA</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>120<LB><HI REND="italics">YOUNG NATIVE DANDIES OF 1850</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>121<LB><HI REND="italics">THE BELLA UNION</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>164<LB><HI REND="italics">"THE TWO FRIENDS"</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>164<LB><HI REND="italics">CHINESE GAMBLING HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>165<LB><HI REND="italics">DEAD CHINAMEN IN JAIL YARD AFTER THE LOS ANGELES MASSACRE</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>165<LB><HI REND="italics">EDITORIAL IN THE</HI>
166.sgm: LOS ANGELES STAR <HSEP>167<LB>LOS ANGELES STAR <HI REND="italics"> OF OCTOBER 25, 1871</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>169<LB><HI REND="italics">LYNCHING OF LACHENAIS FOR THE KILLING OF JACOB BELL</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>176<LB><HI REND="italics">FIRST HOUSE ON THE SITE OF THE PRESENT CITY OF PASADENA</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>177<LB><HI REND="italics">SOME PRESS COMMENTS REPRINTED IN</HI>
166.sgm: THE PORCUPINE <HSEP>189<LB><HI REND="italics">STEPHEN C. FOSTER</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>240<LB><HI REND="italics">DON FRANCISCO SEPULVEDA</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>240 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<LB><HI REND="italics">FAMOUS SADDLE AND BRIDLE OF GENERAL ANDRES PICO</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>241<LB><HI REND="italics">THE PRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCO</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>256<LB><HI REND="italics">SAN FRANCISCO BEAUTIES</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>256<LB><HI REND="italics">INTERIOR OF EL DORADO, SAN FRANCISCO</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>257<LB><HI REND="italics">FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, SAN FRANCISCO</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>257<LB><HI REND="italics">RUSH FOR THE GOLD REGIONS</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>296<LB><HI REND="italics">SUTTER'S MILL</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>296<LB><HI REND="italics">ANTONIA DE BANDINI</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>297<LB><HI REND="italics">DON JUAN BANDINI AND DAUGHTER MARGARITA</HI>
166.sgm:<HSEP>297</P>
166.sgm:<P>The illustration facing page 7 is taken from an old print which has been reproduced in "A Pictorial History of California" published by the University of California.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Illustrations facing pages 2, 3, 6, 40, 120, 121, 165, 176, 177, 240, 241, and 297 are reproduced from the Ingersoll Historical Collection in the Los Angeles Public Library.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The endpapers, and illustrations facing pages 33, 36, 37 and 41 are reproduced through the courtesy of the California State Library.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Illustrations facing pages 24, 25, 60, 61, 165, 256, 257, and 296 are reproduced from engravings in "The Annals of San Francisco" by Soule&acute;, Gihon, and Nisbet, published by D. Appleton &amp; Company.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Concepcio&acute;n Palomares</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Introduction</HI>
166.sgm:<P>THROUGH a period of years following the publication of his now famous <HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of a Ranger</HI>
166.sgm:<P>As a gold miner in Hangtown while still in his 'teens, a Ranger in pursuit of the notorious Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta when barely past his majority, a soldier of fortune in the forces of Benito Jua&acute;rez in Mexico, an aide to General William Walker on the celebrated filibuster into Nicaragua, a Union officer throughout the Civil War and later stationed on the Texas border; still later a newspaper editor making war single-handed against dominant political groups in Los Angeles and an attorney who enjoyed the confidences of the old Spanish Californian families in those turbulent days of racial and political adjustment following the admission of California to the Union, Horace Bell surely had gathered an ample fund of memories of universal human interest when he chose to cast himself in the ro&circ;le of <HI REND="italics">This Truthful Historian</HI>
166.sgm:<P>This appellation he emphasizes (sometimes, perhaps, with the gesture of the tongue in the cheek) because he was by nature an iconoclast.  Webster's definition of an iconoclast is, I believe, <HI REND="italics">an image breaker; one who attacks superstitions or shams</HI>
166.sgm:.  Possibly the first part of this definition conveys too severe an impression of the mental attitude of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>If Major Bell strikes at images it is more frequently with the weapons of satire, irony or broad humor than with heavy denunciation; and so he is always the successful entertainer whether or not we agree with his opinions.  Friends or enemies, the rugged old Ranger loved to laugh at his contemporaries.  He loved to laugh at himself and at the times in which he lived.  And we laugh as we read the lines he left as the record of his iconoclasm, for certainly the spirit of his robust raillery still hovers, a chuckling wraith, over those precious delineations.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The thought that this self-declared <HI REND="italics">truthful</HI>
166.sgm: historian sometimes tells a story with his tongue in his cheek is in no wise a reflection on his veracity.  It is a tribute to his ability to picture for us the spirit of the people and the times about which he writes, beyond relating the mere facts of events.  Let the Chapter called <HI REND="italics">Spit in the Mouth of Hell</HI>
166.sgm: be an example.  I doubt if there is to be found in modern literature a more delightful bit of quixotic writing than this rendition of the traditions of the Elizabeth Lake country.  So quaintly blended are fact and fancy in the relation of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Bell, the adventurous Indianan of Scotch-Irish ancestry, was not given over to smashing images only, but himself fashioned some both beautiful and noble.  His American patriotism was a white flame within him; his admiration for the great West and its real pioneers was one of the governing ideals of his life; his championship of all whom he had reason to believe had been wronged was instinctive; his utterly unsentimental sentiment for California and its romantic history was his constant inspiration.  But he was no hero worshiper: When he believed that a false image had been set up, or that an image was out of proportion, he felt no hesitancy in proclaiming it false or faulty, from his viewpoint.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The stalwart fighting gentleman of six feet two inches and pounds in perfect proportion was long a distinguished figure on the streets of Los Angeles; in the earlier years on a coal black stallion handsomely decked out in all the traditional Californian trappings of carved leather and silver mountings, later afoot with cane, long, tight-fitting frock coat and broad-brimmed black soft hat as he and the Pueblo of Our Lady of the Angels grew older together.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Usually our author, in the middle years, was engaged in fiery opposition to majority opinion or to privileged classes that had appropriated to themselves the power and the glory, as the files of his prickly and dreaded little paper, <HI REND="italics">The Porcupine</HI>
166.sgm:, will attest.  In his determination to maintain his fixed opinions against all odds the Major sometimes had to fight his way through those very streets where he was so long prominent, and some of the exciting difficulties which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Major Horace Bell died at Oakland, California, in 1918, in his eighty-eighth year and is buried in Los Angeles.  Some years before his death he deeded his notes and manuscripts to a daughter, Mrs. J. A. Phillips (Virginia Herrick Bell) of Los Angeles, with the suggestion that they might be worth giving to the world in published form some day as records of events past but not always understood.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It has been my privilege to prepare from this material a book and to attempt to bring the people and events mentioned by the author closer to to-day's reader by a series of notes.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In reading it should be borne in mind that apparently none of the main text was dictated by Major Bell later than 1901, so that when he speaks of changes that have taken place "down to the present writing" allowance must be made for the approximate date at which he was recording his memories.  It had been his intention to have his second volume of memories published during his life time, but the pressure of years and the increasing demand on his attention of other interests caused him to turn the material over to his posterity.</P>
166.sgm:<P>To the Californiana addict this volume will be a delight; to the lover of stories of adventure against historical backgrounds it will be absorbing; to the few who may be unable, for personal or traditional reasons, to accept the author's estimates of persons and events, it will undoubtedly prove provocative.</P>
166.sgm:<P>LANIER BARTLETT.</P>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">March 15, 1930</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>ON THE</P>
166.sgm:<P>OLD WEST</P>
166.sgm:<P>COAST</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>1</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 1</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Los Californios</HI>
166.sgm:<P>THE native Spanish-speaking inhabitants of California prior to the American occupation designated themselves not as Spaniards nor as Mexicans but simply as Californios--that is, Californians.  Hijos del pais--native sons--was an expression used by the young men further to emphasize their distinction as a race.</P>
166.sgm:<P>And indeed they were a distinct people.  Territorially they were separated from the main body of Mexicans by long distances of burning desert or tedious and infrequent sea coast communications.  They were Mexican in nationality only by the time the United States took over the province; that is, they were technically Mexicans but actually a separate entity.  Politically California enjoyed an almost absolute independence towards the close of the Mexican re&acute;gime.  In those latter days the hijos del pais would no longer tolerate governors sent to them from below the border.  They insisted they must have governors to the manor born.  The last governor appointed from Mexico City, General Manuel Micheltorena, was expelled by the Californians in 1844 along with his army of cholos imported to enforce his rule.  After that Mexico had to agree to California's own choice of an executive from among her native sons.  Sometimes the northern and southern ends of the province could not agree on one.  Then there had to be two governors, which was not always a satisfactory arrangement, either.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>In manners, appearance and general make-up the Californians bore but slight resemblance to the bulk of the people of Mexico.  Their isolation, their way of living, the concentration of lordly land holdings in the hands of a few families of pure Spanish origin, developed them into one of the most independent and happily self-sufficient people that ever lived on this earth.  To Mexico they bore about the same relationship as did our American pioneers of the West to the American civilization east of the Alleghanies.  The great stretch of country from San Diego to Sonoma, seven hundred miles long, was dominated by this small population scattered on wide-spreading ranchos with here and there a presidio,<ANCHOR ID="n1-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1a">A military post.  These grew into pueblos in course of time but they were distinct from those communities founded by royal decree as civil pueblos intended to develop into cities.  The only three civil settlements founded by Spain in California were Los Angeles, San Jose&acute; and Villa Branciforte.  The latter was on the site of the present city of Santa Cruz.  It was abandoned after a few years and its lands reverted to the Mission Santa Cruz.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Los Angeles was the largest of the pueblos with a population, just prior to the raising of the American flag, of about fifteen hundred persons.  But Santa Ba&acute;rbara was the finest community, its people more refined, educated and aristocratic than those of any other settlement in the province.  It was in all respects a stylish town, with a military background, for it was a presidio town.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Outside the pueblos and presidios the population (other than Indian) was composed of cattle-owning families that lived on ranchos measuring in area from one to eleven square leagues.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1b">A Spanish league was almost four miles.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>A goodly people were these Californians.  Generous to a fault, hospitable, rich in lands and herds.  The ranchero was a prince in independence and a true gentleman, perhaps not always exactly as sophisticated society fixes the distinction, but as stamped by nature.  An all around good fellow was this Spanish Californian chieftain of olden times.  Nor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Don Ygna&acute;cio Del Valle.  Founder of a family still prominent in California.  On his rancho of San Francisquito was made the first discovery of gold of positive record in California, in 1842.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Don Jose&acute; de la Guerra y Noriega.  Founder of a celebrated Santa Barbara family.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Church of Our Lady the Queen of the Angels (Plaza Church), Los Angeles.  Pictured before the church was re-roofed in the early '60's.  Note flat brea roof.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A Notable <HI REND="italics">Mansio&acute;n</HI>
166.sgm:.  Home built by Alexander Bell, the author's uncle, in 1844, at Los Angeles and Aliso Streets.  <HI REND="italics">From an old lithograph</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>And everywhere you would find music.  There was always some one of the household who could play on the violin, guitar or harp, and all could dance superlatively.</P>
166.sgm:<P>As for horsemanship the Californian never had any equal anywhere.  The Arabs, the Gauchos and the Comanches were his inferiors in this respect.  All writers contemporaneous with the age of his glory agree on this point.  They also agree that the women excelled in dancing to as striking a degree as did the men in horsemanship.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In the pueblos, Los Angeles and Santa Ba&acute;rbara for instance, a good deal of elegance, refinement and culture existed.  There were ladies here who would have graced the salons of Paris, who would have been ornaments in the society of Washington or New York.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The "adobe hovels" so often referred to by modern scribblers were inhabited by the servile Indian population or the lowest class of mestizos.  The houses of the socially recognized Californians were comfortable, well furnished and sometimes elegant.  When Capt. Alexander Bell<ANCHOR ID="n1-2a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: married a belle from Spain in 1844 he spent seventy thousand dollars in building and furnishing an adobe palace in Los Angeles.  This building became the first capitol of California under American rule.  Commodore Stockton occupied it for a time in 1846 as military governor, and General Fre&acute;mont in 1847.  The old building extended from Aliso to Commercial Street, on the east side of Los Angeles Street, and was quite an imposing structure.  It was indeed the finest house <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:in all California, but there were others of grand pretensions, notably the mansion of General Vallejo at Sonoma, of Antonio Mari&acute;a Pico at San Jose&acute;, and the homes of the Carrillos, the Noriegas and the Ortegas at Santa Ba&acute;rbara; of the Estudillos, the Arguellos and the Bandinis at San Diego.  In Los Angeles houses of especial note were Governor Pi&acute;o Pico's and Don Abel Stearns's, the latter a veritable one-story castle covering all the ground now occupied by the Baker Block and extending clear back from Main to Los Angeles Street.<ANCHOR ID="n1-3">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2a">The author's uncle.  In the early 50's this building was known as Bell's Row.  Later it passed into the hands of the Mellus family, to which Alexander Bell became related by a second marriage, and was known as Mellus Row.  The two-story construction with galleries all around and a walled garden in the rear gave this adobe a marked distinction.  It was the capitol building during Fre&acute;mont's brief term as governor of California.  The building was long since destroyed.  Commodore Stockton is said to have lodged a short time in the Bell mansion but his better known headquarters, the Avila House, is still standing, in part, on Olvera Street just north of the Plaza.  This, the early home of one of the leading Spanish families, was a center of the social life of Los Angeles from 1818 down to some years after the American occupation.  A movement is now afoot to preserve the Avila adobe as a public monument.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3">Abel Stearns was a Massachusetts Yankee who came to California in 1830 and settled in Los Angeles in 1834.  He married Arcadia, daughter of Don Juan Bandini, a Chilean of Italian parentage and Mexican nationality.  She was fourteen years old at the time of the marriage and reputed to be the most beautiful girl in California.  Don Abel was probably the most influential and the richest man in the province during the latter years of the Mexican period.  His home, known as El Palacio de Don Abel, on what is now North Main Street at Arcadia Street, where the old Baker Block stands, was known far and wide for elegance and hospitality.  He held municipal offices at various times, was a delegate to the first Constitutional Convention that met in Monterey in 1849, and made the first improvements at San Pedro, now Los Angeles Harbor, where he erected the first warehouse.  Don Abel died in 1867, after undergoing financial reverses following two successive years of drought that devastated his vast cattle ranges.  Rancho los Alamitos was one of these properties.  His widow married Col. R. S. Baker, a wealthy American.  In 1877 the celebrated <HI REND="italics">palacio</HI>
166.sgm:<P>All the families above named and many others lived in comfort, some in sumptuous elegance; that is to say, they lived in fine houses, had good furniture, good kitchens and good cooks and wore fine clothing.  These Californians were a dignified people, and it is the desire of this truthful historian, so far as able, to give them their proper standing in the history of the state they founded.  They were rich, powerful and happy in ante-gringo times.  They were not lazy, neither were they shiftless, dissolute nor dishonest.  On the contrary they were a dashing, enterprising people.  Their very manner of up-bringing of necessity developed a vigorous physical manhood and womanhood.  The men from early boyhood to past middle-age were always in the saddle ranging the plains in care of their herds and always on the alert to repel incursions of hostile savages from the desert fastnesses; always in the open air, always on the go.  How could the Californian be a lazy man?  Indeed, he was quite the reverse.  It was the rule on all the ranchos that with the <HI REND="italics">luzero</HI>
166.sgm:<P>How did it happen that these Californians lost their vast possessions?</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The opinion so often expressed by the modern gringo is that through gambling, profligacy and idleness these former grandees became impoverished.  This is not true.  Yet it is a fact that the majority of them did lose their possessions and were reduced to poverty.  Why and how?</P>
166.sgm:<P>With but a few notable exceptions, they all became the meat of the Shylocks, after the American occupation.</P>
166.sgm:<P>They were so rich, potentially, that they never suspected that they could, by any possibility, become poor.  But they had one weakness common to all Spanish-Americans.  When they wanted cash they wanted it <HI REND="italics">immediately</HI>
166.sgm:<P>These rancheros were encouraged to run bills.  Any of the alien population would credit them, especially the Jew peddler and shopkeeper.  After the bill had run a certain time perhaps the creditor would take an order for cattle in payment, which he would probably hand over to an up-country cattle buyer.  If that method was not agreeable a note would be taken at the usual rate of interest.  The holder of the note would never present it for payment on the date due and the maker would perhaps forget about it until it had doubled or quintupled.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Then payment would be demanded.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Not being used to gringo methods the ranchero would not have money when called upon, and so he would go to El Boticario<ANCHOR ID="n1-2b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: (as we shall call him), who was the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2b">Druggist, apothecary.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>The mortgage records of Los Angeles County are blood-stained and fearful.  It makes one's hair stand on end to go through them.  The Shylock practice was universal.  All of the references herein, and hereafter made in this history so far as they relate to mortgage transactions, are sustained by the public records.</P>
166.sgm:<P>We deem it the duty of the historian to show to posterity life as it existed in the times of which he writes, and in doing this he must honor his enemies and spare not his friends.  So it is here quite opportune and proper to moralize on the wholesale spoliation of the Californians, not through the active agency of the Government, but through its criminal toleration.</P>
166.sgm:<P>When in 1848 California was finally ceded by Mexico to the United States by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo,<ANCHOR ID="n1-4">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: had our government then at one fell swoop confiscated every league of land owned by the transferred inhabitants and all their livestock it would have been an act of mercy as compared with what actually followed our acquisition of the province, to wit: turning loose on the unsuspecting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Abel Stearns.  A Yankee who settled in California in 1830.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo.  "The grand old man" of California.  He was born in Monterey in 1808.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Californian mode of catching cattle.  <HI REND="italics">From an old drawing</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-4">The treaty between the United States and Mexico signed February 2, 1848, whereby California and the rest of the territory acquired by the United States as a result of the Mexican War passed permanently into American possession.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>The more enlightened Californians as a body welcomed the transfer to the American government as promising a new era of material prosperity and political security.  But their education, civilization, manner of doing business, rendered them utterly unfit to cope with the powers arrayed against them--the sharpers licensed by the toleration of the Government.  When it became evident that the natives were unable to protect themselves our Government ought to have protected them.  Theirs was a civilization pertaining to the 16th century.  They were three hundred years behind the forces of the 19th century.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Our Government did not protect them, but our laws did protect the Shylocks and sharpers, and thus wrought the ruin and desolation of a hitherto happy and prosperous people and brought a blight upon the country that has festered ever since.  The Government's crime of omission in failing to protect these people was as great a crime as though it had actively engaged in the spolaation.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>San Gabrie&acute;l Arca&acute;ngel</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 2</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Ruin of the Rancheros</HI>
166.sgm:<P>EL BOTICARIO was mentioned in the preceding chapter and will be elaborated herein.  A great man was El Boticario.  He duly honored California with his coming in 1851, and shortly thereafter settled in Los Angeles.</P>
166.sgm:<P>He was an Irishman by birth, a Mexican by marriage and in religion a most ardent money-getter; indeed, a devoted worshiper of the Almighty Dollar.  He was born and brought up in an ancient Irish castle built by that renowned old slugger, Brian Boru, about the time he slugged the Danes out of Ireland.  In fact, El Boticario was a lineal descendant of Brian Boru himself.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Understand, I make this statement on the authority of El Boticario himself.  On other authority than his this historian learns that the castle in Ireland was built of mud, had four walls and a thatched roof, two chimneys and two rooms, one door and two loopholes, that is to say, small windows without glass.  El Boticario did not describe the ancestral castle this way, but a veritable Irish count did so describe it, a description which we accept as truthful, believing that Ireland is as full of this manner of castle as the other place is full of fiddlers.</P>
166.sgm:<P>El Boticario was not only a descendent of Munsterian royalty, or so claimed to be, but in Los Angeles he became a king--a money king, a financial dictator, Lord Paramount of this angelic land.</P>
166.sgm:<P>As related in "The Reminiscences of a Ranger" the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Reproduction of a page from Major Bell's manuscript, with notes in his handwriting</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>El Boticario had preceded our arrival here long enough to have sized up the country, to have taken the measure of the inhabitants, married and gone into business.  He married into a native family that was poor in actual cash and unfortunately honest.  With his wife he got five hundred dollars.  That was his financial starter.  From this small beginning he rounded up about two million dollars.  He died highly honored; that is, the two millions were highly honored by his Munsterian descendants.</P>
166.sgm:<P>From the first El Boticario waxed richer and richer, while the Californians with whom he did business grew poorer and poorer.  The first notable land owner to pay tribute to El Boticario was El Carpintero.  Lemuel Carpenter, to be explicit.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1a">Authorities differ as to the date of Carpenter's arrival in Los Angeles.  C. D. Willard in his "History of Los Angeles," says he came with a party of trappers in 1832 or '33.  Harris Newmark in his "Sixty Years in Southern California," says he came with the Wilson-Workman-Rowland party from New Mexico in 1841.  His first property was a little rancho called La Jaboneri&acute;a (The Soap Factory) on the west bank of the Ri&acute;o San Gabrie&acute;l near El Monte.  The locality is still known by this name.  Here Carpenter manufactured soap and made enough money from it to acquire a large part of the great Nietos family grant known as Rancho Santa Gertrudis, which stretched away on the opposite bank of the river across the region where are now the towns of Downey, Rivera and Los Nietos.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>One unlucky day El Carpintero borrowed fifty dollars from El Boticario; this was about Christmas time, 1852, when he was having a good time among his friends in town <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Then a new note was given Dec. 9, 1853, for five thousand dollars bearing interest at 5 per cent. a month, compounded monthly and payable in three months.  This note was secured by the forty thousand acre ranch.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Oh, he was a broth of a boy, this sprig of Irish royalty, commonly known as El Boticario!</P>
166.sgm:<P>Did El Carpintero pay this five thousand dollars when due, with interest piled up?  No, it ran on for a year and ten days.  Then the interest was computed and another note given, this time for $9,154 at 5 per cent. a month, compounded monthly, secured by a second mortgage on the forty thousand acre ranch.  This was in 1854.  In 1856 the interest was again computed and another note was given for $4,000 with a reduced interest of 4 per cent. per month, compounded monthly.  This note was given to secure an installment of interest due and unpaid, on the original note of fifty dollars with its accumulations.</P>
166.sgm:<P>El Carpintero having finally exhausted his mortgage security the $4,000 note was secured by the signature of good old Don Pi&acute;o Pico, last governor of California under Mexico, who was a neighbor and compadre of El Carpintero.  And let it here be explained in passing that one compadre never goes back on another.  It is an endearing relationship between men that does not exist in gringo society.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was in 1859 that El Boticario applied the thumbscrews of the law to El Carpintero and demanded his pound of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>El Carpintero squared up; he paid it all, principal, interest, compound interest and costs, except the $4,000 note with its four years' compound interest and its costs.  That was paid by poor old Don Pi&acute;o.  It was the first step of this Californian grandee on the downward grade to poverty.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Of course El Carpintero paid the other notes not with cash but with his forty thousand acres, his cattle, horses, vineyards, cultivated fields; his springs, streams and lakes.  More, he added his life's blood as further interest.  He drove a bullet through his brain, and so passed the first of the great California private domains, and one of the richest, of that long list that was to go as tribute to the new business methods.</P>
166.sgm:<P>El Boticario was a pretty good sort of a man otherwise, possessed of many fine qualities, personally manly, a hater of other kinds of wrong, with a fair share of Irish nerve which would not let any man "tread on the tail of his shirt."  His good qualities, however, too often fell down before the opportunities of raking in the dollars pertaining to his wife's country-people.</P>
166.sgm:<P>El Boticario and the Register of the U.S. Land Office in Los Angeles once had a tilt.  This is the same Register mentioned in the author's former chronicle, who bit the nose off the U.S. District Attorney.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was in '58 that the remarkable encounter occurred in which El Boticario figured.  The Register was a fighter from way back.  He was on the fight all the time.  He was a pistol fighter, a knife fighter and away up in rough and tumble.  The tale of the tilt above referred to is as follows:</P>
166.sgm:<P>Bruno Avila was the owner of El Rancho Centinela, now the manor of Dan Freeman; ten thousand acres worth a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:million dollars at present.<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">Rancho Aguaje de la Centinela, site of the present town of Inglewood and its surrounding oil fields between Los Angeles and Redondo.  This estimate of a mere million dollars was made, of course, some thirty years ago.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Bruno had now possessed himself of the horse but had no money to wager on the races.  So he hied himself to El Boticario and on July 1, 1854, borrowed four hundred dollars at 6 per cent. per month, compounded monthly, secured by a mortage on Rancho Centinela!</P>
166.sgm:<P>Now, at the time this mortgage was made the fee simple title was really vested in the Register, of course.  Ascertaining this defect in his title after lending the four hundred El Boticario flew to the courts for redress.  He brought suit to foreclose his mortgage and made the Register a party defendant with intent to subordinate title.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In court the case terminated in favor of the Register.</P>
166.sgm:<P>El Boticario appealed to the Supreme Court, which affirmed the original judgment; but not before the Register had been riddled with buckshot and sent to Kingdom Come by Uncle Billy Rubottom.  But that is an entirely different story which will be taken up later.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Now as to the actual tilt: the Register and Bill Jenkins roomed on the west side of Spring Street opposite the present Bullard Block.<ANCHOR ID="n2-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1b">Site of the first Court House and of the present beautiful new City Hall.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>El Medico was a chum of El Boticario, as would seem natural enough in view of their more or less mutual professions.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The foreclosure fight was at white heat and the clans had on their war paint.  As the early morning sun warmed the adobe walls of the Registerial residence El Medico passed by.  The Register, coatless and in slippers, with suspenders dangling, stepped to the sidewalk and called: "Hello, Mac!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>Mac stopped and the Register said: "Mac, did you swear to that affidavit that was filed yesterday in the A&acute;vila suit?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>Mac replied: "Why yes, what have you got to say about it?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"This," replied the Register.  "You swore to a damn lie."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Mac, the Medico, was six feet two inches in height and weighed two hundred pounds.  The Register was six feet two inches and weighed two hundred pounds.  Both were fighters from the Southern backwoods.</P>
166.sgm:<P>They clinched like two mighty grizzlies.  Up and down, over and under, rough and tumble.</P>
166.sgm:<P>El Boticario came on the scene, revolver in hand; so did Bill Jenkins, who was still to be reckoned with in the transaction, and stood by to see fair play.</P>
166.sgm:<P>El Boticario tried to get in a shot but the Register kept El Medico so on the move that a shot was as likely to hit one as the other.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Then came the Town Marshal and the County Clerk.  The Clerk was a lame man on horseback.  The Marshal took the gun away from El Boticario just as the two giants let go of each other.  The battle seemed a draw between these two; but the Register was still full of fight.  He shook himself, hitched up his suspenders and charged on El Boticario.  The latter was a little fellow, hardly a mouthful for the gigantic Register.</P>
166.sgm:<P>There was a little alley at the north end of the Court House, in front of which the fight took place, which led to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Said Bill Jenkins to the Marshal: "For God's sake take Shore's (the County Clerk's) horse and catch the Register, or he'll eat El Boticario alive!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Marshal unhorsed the lame man, leaped onto the latter's steed and dashed away through the alley going west.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At the summit of the first hill El Boticario was far in the lead and the Marshal, overtaking the winded pursuer, prevailed on him to give up the chase, for the moment at least.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Having returned and breakfasted, the Register hied himself to the Ranger armory, borrowed a Mississippi rifle, went to his room, took a chair out onto the sidewalk, sat down comfortably tilted back against the adobe wall and waited for El Boticario, who was due to wend his way to the Court House to attend the trial of his suit.</P>
166.sgm:<P>El Boticario failed to wend.  In the cool of the afternoon the Register paraded the town, rifle in hand, but failed to find his game.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The following day, which was steamer day to San Francisco, the hunter discovered that his would-be prey had registered at the stage office as a steamer passenger for the north.  The Register decided to go north on the same steamer.<ANCHOR ID="n2-3">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3">Stages connected Los Angeles with the port of San Pedro, now Los Angeles Harbor, where passengers were lightered out to coastwise steamers anchored off Deadman's Island.  During 1929 this island was entirely removed by the United States government to widen the entrance to the inner harbor.  Here were buried, in 1846, the American marines of the <HI REND="italics">Savannah</HI>
166.sgm:<P>At 4 P.M., the usual hour for the departure of the stage, the Register appeared, carpetbag in hand, and took his seat in the stage.  The vehicle departed with the Register but without El Boticario.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Register figured that his prey had dodged him by hiring a private conveyance in which to reach the harbor--which was in fact just what he had done.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But friends of the fleeing man despatched "Doctor" Jim Berry, a colored boy who was a light, fast rider, to San Pedro <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The Register went north on the steamer and returned on the same vessel, just foaming with rage and disappointment.  El Boticario had laid over at Banning's.<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">Phineas Banning operated the principal stage line between Los Angeles and San Pedro and had a home near the upper reaches of the inner harbor.  In this locality he laid out, in 1872, the town of Wilmington, named after the city in his native Delaware.  The Banning family early acquired ownership of Santa Catalina Island and controlled that famous resort until its purchase by William Wrigley, Jr., in 1919.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>All this time, however, the 5 per cent., the 6 per cent., the 10 per cent., all per month, went on working for him, so what difference did it make to El Boticario which end of the state he stood in?</P>
166.sgm:<P>In three years El Boticario became a capitalist of mighty caliber.  Starting with five hundred dollars in 1852, in June, '55, he loaned Jose&acute; Sepu&acute;lveda,<ANCHOR ID="n2-5">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-5">This may have been either of two cousins who were important land owners--Jose&acute; Loreto Sepu&acute;lveda, holder of the Rancho Palos Verdes, thirty-one thousand acres fronting on and stretching west-ward from the Bay of San Pedro, or Jose&acute; Andre&acute;s Sepu&acute;lveda, grantee of the Rancho San Joaqui&acute;n, 48,808 acres lying east of Tustin, Orange County, now incorporated in the great property known as the Irvine Ranch.  The Agusti&acute;n Machado mentioned was owner of Rancho la Ballona, on a corner of which now stands Culver City, home of several celebrated movie studios.  Juan Avila (or Abila) held the neighboring grant of Las Cie&acute;negas.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>At this time there was one Miles, a Los Angeles store clerk, whose sole ambition was to make $5,000 out of California and then return to his old Kentucky home, "where," said he, "on five thousand I can live like a gentleman."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Having saved $500 he loaned it to this same Don Jose&acute; Sepu&acute;lveda at the rate of 10 per cent. per day, interest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>While fighting Sepu&acute;lveda and his partners on the $20,000 note, El Boticario heard of the $500 Miles note and bought it up for $5,000, paying in addition enough bounty money to land Miles on the wharf at Louisville, Ky.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Miles put his money in a sack and started home.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At San Pedro he boarded the tugboat <HI REND="italics">Ida Hancock</HI>
166.sgm:<P>With his $500 assigned Miles note El Boticario went for his enemy hotter than ever.  This note had grown to mammoth proportions.  In ninety days note and interest together amounted to $256,000.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The "Baron of Casteca," Bill Jenkins, who was then a deputy sheriff, took a hand.  To El Boticario he said: "If you persist in enforcing full payment you will be killed in less than a week."  To Sepu&acute;lveda he said: "Compromise this note if you can.  If you don't you will have to pay interest and all, though it takes every league of your property and your thousands of head of cattle, because it is the law of this land."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The note was compromised and Sepu&acute;lveda paid El Boticario on that $500 the enormous sum of $72,000.</P>
166.sgm:<P>To sum up, the loans of $20,000 and $5,000 realized the neat sums of $81,000 and $67,000 respectively, as clean-cut interest.  In all, $148,000.</P>
166.sgm:<P>If the reader should wish to verify what is here written, and many other similar cases, he is referred to the records of Los Angeles County, California.  Such cases are piled up in the archives of all our coast counties, but the very worst are recorded in this Angel City.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>To close this pathetic chapter we will conclude by saying that the Californians struggled along under these mountains of usury as long as their cattle resources held out.  But in 1863-4 there came two successive years of drought.  The cattle and horses died and the ranchos--the land--began going to pay interest.  That was the beginning of the end.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Mari&acute;a Ygna&acute;cio Verdugo</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 3</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Serious Matter is Mexican Gratitude</HI>
166.sgm:<P>IN the autumn of '53 the author was stationed at San Gabrie&acute;l Mission as a sort of military observer for the Rangers, keeping an eye open for any predatory remnants of Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta's band.  It was rather a pleasant berth; nothing to do but ride around in the daytime and keep run of the balls and fandangos at night.</P>
166.sgm:<P>One of these festive occasions happened to be a house-warming, or <HI REND="italics">bendicio&acute;n</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Over at the Mission a fandango was in full blast and at midnight, when everything was at fever heat, several Californians got into a row with a cholo, a stranger, and would have made tamales of him in short order had not this Ranger historian rescued the poor Mexican.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The next day El Cholo made his appearance to express his gratitude for my interference on his behalf.  Hat in hand and features expressive of the deepest thankfulness, he addressed me as follows:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Sen&tilde;or Americano, you are a good man, you are a first class caballero, a valiente.  You are a very brave man.  Last night you saved my life.  But for you those malditos <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>I informed the grateful caballero that for the present I would permit all my enemies to live.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Then, sen&tilde;or caballero," said he, "would you accept from me the gift of a very fine, well-broken saddle horse?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>I answered that I certainly would accept such a princely gift.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Bien, sen&tilde;or, you know that el viejo Don Juan Rowland<ANCHOR ID="n3-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1a">John Rowland was an American who came to California in 1841 in company with William Workman, a British subject, and others who had been engaged in the Santa Fe&acute; trade in New Mexico.  To Rowland and Workman was granted Rancho la Puente, of almost forty-nine thousand acres of rich land eighteen miles east of Los Angeles.  This little gift was said to have been made to them because of their aid to Pico's political cause in the movement that expelled Governor Micheltorena from the province.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>I responded in the affirmative.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Then, sen&tilde;or, I will this very night go over to the Rancho Puente and steal the best head in Don Juan's bands.  You will accept it from me as a token of my gratitude."</P>
166.sgm:<P>By this time I had become thoroughly convinced of the predominant trait of Mexican character--I mean gratitude, of course; and I decided to let it go at that.  So I dismissed a very puzzled cholo with an admonition to leave Don Juan Rowland's horse pastures undisturbed, and that's the last I ever saw of him.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>One day news was brought into San Gabrie&acute;l that a large party of emigrants from Arkansas known as "Rubottom's Company" had just emerged from the desert and was in camp at Temescal.  Believing that Rubottom must be the Uncle Bill of Trinity County memory, I rode out to visit the camp, sixty miles distant.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I first met Uncle Bill in the deepest and darkest fastnesses of the Trinity Mountains in March, 1851.  He was the purest specimen of the rough diamond that it has ever been this author's pleasure to know.  An Arkansas man born and bred, wholly illiterate, honest, generous and just, a lover of right and hater of wrong.  He was about forty years of age at the time.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Among the pioneers of the Trinity were several other Arkansas men--the Logan boys--Boone, Jonathan and Dick--and others, all kinsfolk and all men of energy and frontier consequence.  But the most eminent of all that Arkansas colony was a little negro boy, Harry, as black as a polished boot, born a slave and brought to California as a slave, until Uncle Bill took a hand and made Harry free.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This is told here because blood hangs on the manumission of Harry, an aftermath that had issue in mid-continent, on the plains of the Indian Territory.</P>
166.sgm:<P>On the Trinity during the summer of '51 little Harry changed owners about every Saturday night, that is to say, he would be played off at freeze-out poker.  On each Saturday night he would be put up for six ounces, an ounce an entry, and the fortunate winner would have Harry's services at picking, shoveling or running a rocker for the week.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At the last freeze-out game played for the ownership of the human chattel, old McGullion won the pot.  It being late at night, "Mac" immediately started for his cabin, saying, "Come along home, Harry."</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"No, you don't!" said Uncle Bill, who had just dropped in on the game. "This infernal game has played out!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"What do you mean?" demanded Mac.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Just this," replied Uncle Bill.  "We are in a free country and by law Harry is just as free as any of us.  I've stood this nonsense so long I'm ashamed of it."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Had the Prince of Darkness entered the room and declared himself for everlasting light there could have been no greater manifestation of dumb surprise.  The idea of a free nigger never entered those other Arkansas minds, they never heard of such a thing, it was preposterous.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Uncle Bill's word, however, had always been law in that camp and McGullion and the rest watched in sullen silence as Uncle Bill said to the little negro boy: "Harry, will you come home with me?  I'll give you four dollars a day for the work you do for me and no one shall molest you."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Harry timorously assented.  Liberator and liberated walked out into the night, leaving the Arkansas crowd dumbfounded.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Until the fall of '52 Harry remained with Uncle Bill helping him work his claim.  Then the dictator of the Arkansas colony on the Trinity left the little negro in the care of the judge and the sheriff of Trinity County and made a trip to his home state.</P>
166.sgm:<P>One more instance of Uncle Bill's manhood and sense of justice while in the mining country before we ride into the camp of Rubottom's Company at Temescal:</P>
166.sgm:<P>A party of eight or ten miners, of which Uncle Bill was one, were working some bank diggings in the great can&tilde;on of the Trinity.  Employed by Uncle Billy was a certain fellow named Mexican Joe.</P>
166.sgm:<P>One Sunday Mexican Joe was left in charge of the camp while the rest went to the trading post at North Fork. </P>
166.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Courtesy W. Parker Lyon, Pasadena</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Uncle Bill's companions returned to camp early, but the big fellow himself did not come back until about sundown.  Then, to his amazement, he saw his man, Joe, dangling by the neck from the limb of a great oak tree.  The rest of the miners had just strung him up--he was still "kickin'."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Arkansan leaped forward and cut Joe down and began to get the breath of life back into him, ignoring the protests of his companions.  Then he turned on them and demanded to know what it was all about.  He learned that during the absence of the company the camp purse, containing six or eight ounces of gold dust, had been stolen.  Joe had protested that he knew nothing of its whereabouts; said he had never left camp but had slept for about an hour.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Only Joe could be guilty, decided the miners, and as hanging was the common law of the mines for stealing, the poor Mexican was forthwith hanged.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Well, how Uncle Bill did vituperate that crowd!  He was the most eminent swearer that ever came to California, and that is claiming a lot.  He was sublime in the art.  It is solemnly attested that on this occasion he cursed so scathingly that the bark peeled off the big oak tree.  He swore so thunderously that the mountains shivered and great fragments came crashing down into the river.  The wrath of Roland over the treason of Gan at the battle of Roncesvalles was infantile in comparison to Uncle Bill's.  One of the listeners' hair turned gray and three others were stricken baldheaded.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The next day Mexican Joe was under the armed protection of Uncle Bill and seemed all right except for a stiff neck.  The miners were still dissatisfied and came to Uncle Bill with a demand that Joe should be expelled from camp.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Uncle Bill forcefully reiterated his faith in Joe's innocence.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>San Francisco in April 1850, showing Clay Street, opposite Portsmouth Square.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The Post Office, Corner of Pike and Clay Streets.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Emigrant Train.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Scene in the gold mines.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>While the situation hung in the balance a coyote was seen trotting along the mountainside carrying something in its mouth.  One of the men shot at the animal.  It dropped the object it was carrying and ran away.  The man went over to see what the coyote had dropped.  Lo, it was the stolen purse!</P>
166.sgm:<P>Then Uncle Bill cut loose on that crowd again and what a lecture he gave them on lynch law!  He said that he had never known in his life any lynch court--and Arkansas had been full of them as well as California--that ever came any nearer to justice than had happened in the present instance; that lynch law never was any good and never would be, and he painted a merciless picture to his audience of how near they had been to murdering the best boy on the river.</P>
166.sgm:<P>When I finally rode into the camp of Rubottom's Company at Temescal, sixty miles, as I have said, from San Gabrie&acute;l, I found that sure enough it was Uncle Bill's outfit, but he was not there.  From his large family I met a cold reception, which I could not understand.  I sought out Lige Bettis, a son-in-law of the leader, a shrewd and intelligent man, and at last learned that Uncle Bill was hiding out in the hills, apprehensive of being arrested.  When their scouts had seen me approaching in semi-military garb and equipment they had decided that I bore a U.S. warrant for his apprehension.</P>
166.sgm:<P>When Lige was satisfied of my identity and my friendly intentions he sent a man to the top of a hill.  This man gave three long-drawn coyote howls, and in a few minutes Uncle Bill appeared, armed with rifle, revolvers and knife.  On recognizing me he was utterly delighted.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"But what's the matter, Uncle Bill?" I asked.  "Why do you apprehend arrest?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>Uncle Bill was laboring under emotional excitement and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The whole camp now surrounded me with every demonstration of welcome.  The train consisted of ten or twelve families from Arkansas.  They were almost completely exhausted after their struggle across the desert.  The camp was at the upper end of the Temescal Valley under the umbrageous canopy of some great live oaks, on the margin of a beautiful green meadow from which burst springs of cool, purling water, forming labyrinths of meandering rivulets which, finally uniting, made Temescal Creek.  No lovelier camping ground could be found on the face of this beautiful green earth.  What a haven for these emigrants, at the end of the "Journey of Death," as the old Spaniards called the worst section of the struggle across the burning sands from Yuma.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The author crossed the Colorado Desert three times before the railroad was built, and ever since he has felt an utter contempt for a prospective Hell!</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was the month of October that the Rubottom train was encamped here in this elysium and their empty flesh pots were supplied with fresh fat beef gratuitously from the herds of the great Serrano family, then the baronial proprietors of an eight league ranch in that region, also luscious grapes from the family vineyard and green vegetables from the garden.  And the starving horses and mules were up to their eyes in green grass.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The company had sent messengers twenty miles to the Mormon colony of San Bernardino to procure flour, sugar and coffee and other things they needed for they were not beggars by any means and only accepted gifts of food when pressed upon them by the rules of Californian hospitality.</P>
166.sgm:<P>After supper Uncle Bill said: "Well, my boy, let's go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Settled on the live oak, the big Arkansas man said:  "You remember Black Harry, don't you, the boy they used to play off at freeze-out?  Well, you know old McGullion got very mad at me the time I enforced the laws of a free state and set the little slave at liberty.  He went home to Arkansas and told everybody I had turned Abolitionist and taken his nigger away from him.  After I got home he shut up about it and I never suspected any treachery, but he was planning.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"About the middle of May I made up this party of my kinspeople and friends and we pulled out from Arkansas headed for Los Angeles.  One morning just beyond the settlements of the Indian Territory I lingered behind with my wife and one of the girls when the rest moved ahead toward the next night's camp.  I had just finished hitching up our spring wagon to follow when McGullion and two of his friends overtook us.  They had papers for my arrest.  `For what?' I inquired.  `McGullion has sued you for two thousand dollars,' replied one of the deputies, `the value of the slave Harry you stole from him in California, and your arrest is warranted because you are running away from the state of Arkansas with intent to defraud your creditors.'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"My weapons were in the wagon, except a knife at my belt, and the three men stood between me and the wagon.  `We are officers--resist at your peril,' said the spokesman, and commanded the others to seize me.  A struggle ensued.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"When I came to after the struggle I found I was lying in our spring wagon, my daughter was holding my head and my wife was lashing the horses forward at a rapid pace.  My clothes were covered with blood, but I didn't feel as if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Yes, but what about McGullion ad the officers?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, we buried them all right.  May God be merciful to their poor souls.  But put handcuffs on me?  No, <HI REND="italics">sir</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Nothing else happened on your way out?"  I inquired.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, nothing serious, except that we all would have been wiped out by a gang of Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta's cut-throats except for Mexican Joe."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Great goodness, you mean Mexican Joe of the Trinity?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"That's him--as white a man as ever lived, is Joe.  You know Joe was born and raised in Tucson, and somehow he had found his way back there.  Well, one day about ten miles from La Cie&acute;nega,<ANCHOR ID="n3-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1b">Properly spelled <HI REND="italics">cie&acute;naga</HI>
166.sgm:, a marsh or swampy place.  But in California and the southwest it is universally spelled <HI REND="italics">cie&acute;nega</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"As the horseman drew nearer, Great Grizzly! I saw he was my old Trinity boy Joe!  The fellow was wild with joy--laughed and cried, could hardly speak.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"`Where are you going, Joe?'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"`I come here warn you.  I come tell you robbers, bandits catch you at Cie&acute;nega and kill you all.  They will take horse, mule, wagon, all to Sonora and sell'em.'"  He went on to explain that about two weeks back there came from California a gang of robbers of the Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta confederacy.  There were about twenty of them and their object was to lie in wait for American emigrant trains, murder the people and run the spoil off to Sonora.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Three days before our appearance some Yaqui Indians who had passed us on the road way back by the Ri&acute;o Grande had reported our train when they got to Tucson, and by the number of watering places on the Journey of Death it was easy to figure out just when we ought to arrive at La Cie&acute;nega.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Joe had got news through underground Mexican sources that it was the intention of Vulvia and Senati, leaders of the robbers, to lie in wait for our train at La Cie&acute;nega.  He found that they would hide out where the road leaves Cie&acute;nega Creek about five miles below the great camping ground.  `To-morrow morning,' said Joe, `Senati, Vulvia and three or four others will come to your camp and tell you they are officers from Tucson who have come out to greet you and escort you safely into town, where the people are planning a great reception for you.  Then they will lead you into the ambuscade on the road leading up from the creek to the mesa.'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"While the sun was yet high we settled down at the famous camping place as if we knew nothing of the intentions of the reception committee.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"During breakfast the next morning sure enough a party of horsemen appeared coming from the direction of Tucson.  We received them with marked politeness and asked them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"`Gentlemen, I am the alcalde of Tucson and these men are my servants.  Being informed of your coming I am here to welcome you to the hospitalities of Tucson.  When it suits your convenience to break camp I will solicit the honor of conducting you thither.'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Breakfast was immediately offered the distinguished visitor and his servants, who seated themselves at a respectful distance from their master and manifested toward him the utmost deference.  Joe was concealed in a wagon where he could view the outfit and I made my way over to him and spoke unnoticed.  He said the pretended alcalde was the notorious Lui&acute;s Vulvia, second in command of Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta's California bandits, and that he had been sent by Joaqui&acute;n from California on this particular mission.  Another black, sinister-looking fellow with an Indian cast of countenance was Senati, said Joe; a most notorious assassin in Mexico and bandit in California.  The three others were villains of distinguished eminence in the business of blood and rapine.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The bandits were quietly eating, chatting and smoking when I gave the agreed signal, whereupon the men of my party covered them with rifles and ordered them to lie <HI REND="italics">boca a la tierra</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Vulvia was then questioned, under penalty of instant death if we found that he was not telling the truth.  He made a full confession and proposed that if we would spare the lives of himself and companions and liberate one man to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"The plan was carried out; we pushed on westward from Tucson across Hell's Home Stretch, and here we are, along with Mexican Joe who has joined up with me again.  He's out looking after the horses--you'll see him soon."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The next day I set out from Rubottom's Company to ride to Los Angeles, to do some scouting for Uncle Bill.  There I found that no warrant had been forwarded for his arrest, that he was apparently free to come and go as he pleased in California.  Riding back again to the camp at Temescal I conveyed this news, and the train drove on into El Monte.<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">One of the earliest American settlements in Southern California, on the Ri&acute;o San Gabrie&acute;l about fifteen miles east of Los Angeles.  It was settled largely by rough-and-readies from Texas and the "El Monte Boys" were long celebrated for their proclivity to seek out trouble and to add to it.  One of the stage stations on the famous Butterfield transcontinental route between St. Louis and San Francisco, the longest ever operated, was located at El Monte.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Uncle Bill bought land at El Monte and settled down to a period of rural contentment.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Vulvia and Senati escaped jail at Tucson, got some of their band together, came to Los Angeles, joined Atana&acute;cio Moreno and raided the Angel City.  The end met by these bandits is told in a chapter of my "Reminiscences of a Ranger," with the details of how in the winter of '54 they were laid out in the jail yard at Los Angeles stark and strangled; how they had been betrayed by Moreno, and what, in turn, happened to Moreno.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 4</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Bandits, Duelists and Filibusters</HI>
166.sgm:<P>IT has been published and republished that the noted bandit, Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta, was killed on the border of Tulare Valley in 1853.  Capt. Harry Love of the Rangers, with a half dozen of his men, surprised the bandit, killed him and one of his lieutenants notoriously known as "Three-Fingered-Jack."  Joaqui&acute;n's head and Three-Fingered-Jack's hand were preserved in alcohol and for a number of years were on exhibition at Natchez's Arms Store and Pistol Gallery on Clay Street, opposite the old Plaza in San Francisco.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1a">Head and hand said to have been destroyed in the great San Francisco fire of 1906.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Natchez was a character.  He came from Natchez, Mississippi, and that is how he got his sobriquet.  Natchez furnished and loaded all of the pistols used in early-time duels and in this respect his fame became as wide as the state itself.  A great pistol expert was Natchez.  He was accused of contributing to the killing of Senator Broderick by Judge David S. Terry in 1859.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1b">The celebrated Broderick-Terry duel was the outcome of political differences between Senator David C. Broderick and Judge David S. Terry of the State Supreme Court.  Senator Broderick made certain charges against Judge Terry which resulted in the duel with pistols at thirty paces on the morning of September 13, 1859, in the hills of Marin County.  It is said that Broderick already had a record of two duels fought with political adversaries.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta. From a painting by a padre of Carmel Mission in 1853, a few months before the famous bandit's death at the hands of the Rangers.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta as pictured by an early-day artist.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>In the first place Natchez was an honorable man and could not have been used for such a purpose.  In the second place Judge David S. Terry was the very soul of honorable chivalry and was as incapable of taking any advantage in an encounter of that sort, as he would have been incapable of doing any other cowardly act.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Speaking of these incidents reminds me that I possess several tokens of those times.  I have an oil painting of Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta made by a priest of the old Mission Carmel,<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2"><HI REND="italics">Missio&acute;n San Ca&acute;rlos Borrome&acute;o del Ca&acute;rmelo de Monterey</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Along in 1853, after Joaqui&acute;n's bands had been broken up in Los Angeles County, he went to Monterey County and raided up to the very portals of San Jose&acute;.  It was claimed that he several times made forays into San Francisco itself, though his personal identity was always hard to establish on any given occasion through the widely scattered character of his organization and the fact that there were several other Joaqui&acute;ns among his lieutenants.</P>
166.sgm:<P>During that summer of '53 news came to the sheriff at San Jose&acute; that Murrieta was camped in a can&tilde;on down towards the Mission.  A posse was at once organized of which Col. S. O. Houghton, formerly a member of Stevenson's Pioneer Regiment<ANCHOR ID="n4-3">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<P>This time he took refuge at the Mission Carmel and was cared for by the priest there for a time--just how long is not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:known; but during this time the young padre painted a portrait of the famous bandido just as he appeared when he sought sanctuary in the ancient edifice of the Franciscans.  A red sash is wound turban-like around his head and a <HI REND="italics">manga</HI>
166.sgm: of the same color does duty as a cloak.  The <HI REND="italics">manga</HI>
166.sgm:, in South America called a <HI REND="italics">poncho</HI>
166.sgm:<P>A year or two after the death of Joaqui&acute;n this priest sent the picture to a very Christian old Catholic lady, wife of a wealthy American at Los Angeles, accompanied by a letter explaining the circumstances under which the portrait was painted and giving information he had to the effect that a sister of Joaqui&acute;n's resided in Los Angeles.  He requested that the letter and picture be delivered to her.  However, the sister had disappeared from the pueblo, no one knew whither, so the portrait and the epistle remained in the possession of the American woman.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Thirty years rolled around and this good old lady died.  It became my duty, in a professional capacity, to take out letters of administration on her estate, on behalf of a kins-woman.  In rummaging over some of the old boxes and trunks left by the deceased we found, among all sorts of rubbish, the portrait of Joaqui&acute;n and the letter from the reverend artist who painted it.  The edges of the oil painting had been eaten off by mice and it was in bad condition.  I took it to an artist in Los Angeles to have it restored and framed.  This man had seen the preserved head of Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta in a museum in New York and immediately recognized the subject of the portrait I set before him.  After Natchez's death the head of the bandit in some way or other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>There was a Billy Henderson who was a member of the party that killed Murrieta.  Billy was the man who cut his head off.  He was for several years my neighbor and a more genial and generous fellow I never met--a man of strict integrity, moral, sober, gentlemanly and urbane.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But Billy Henderson was haunted by Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta.  No question about that.  He used to tell me that there was not a day, or more usually a night, that Joaqui&acute;n did not come to him personally, headless, and speak--for his voice was recognizable even though his head was missing.  He was always demanding his head.  Billy said that the first time the apparition made this demand he, Billy, was riding from Los Angeles down to his ranch.  It was just daylight when a horseman appeared at his side.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Who are you and what do you want?" demanded Billy, hardly yet aware of the gruesome nature of the rider in the faint light.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I am Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta," replied the strange horseman, in a voice so uncanny and yet so natural that its effect was absolutely startling.  "You cut my head off, and I want you to restore it to me.  No rest can ever come to me until I get my head back."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Billy stared at the rider close beside him and saw that he was, indeed, headless and that he was dressed and mounted in every detail exactly as at the time of his death.  Overcoming his feeling of horror, Henderson, who was a brave and rational person, replied honestly, as man to man: "Joaqui&acute;n, it is true that it was I who cut off your head, but I am powerless to restore it.  All I can say is that I have always been sorry that I did cut it off."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Joaqui&acute;n replied: "I hold you responsible for my head and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Then for years," continued Billy, "I would wake up in the middle of the night hearing my name called, and when I responded I would hear that voice say: `I am Joaqui&acute;n and I want my head.'  At such times I can not see him; it is only when he rides up beside me on lonely roads--and this has happened many times--that he is visible."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why, Billy!"  I exclaimed, "I should think it would set you crazy to be thus haunted."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"No," he replied, "I'm not afraid of Joaqui&acute;n's ghost any more than I was afraid of Joaqui&acute;n in the flesh.  It's not the actual apparitions that disturb me, not at all.  The only thing about it is I am really sorry that I can't get that head for him.  Natchez got possession of it and wouldn't give it up and since then I can't get any track of it.  I never would have cut Joaqui&acute;n's head off except under the excitement of the chase and the orders of Harry Love."</P>
166.sgm:<P>While Natchez is still being mentioned, it might be a matter of interest, in view of the part he was accused of having played in the Broderick-Terry duel, to mention the manner of his death.  He was killed with the pistol that killed Broderick.  One day he was examining that pistol with its delicate hair-trigger.  It went off and Natchez fell dead.</P>
166.sgm:<P>There used to be a man named Price in San Francisco, a great pioneer knife-maker.  He worked at his trade in a corner of Natchez's store.  He never made a knife for less than fifty dollars.  A bowie knife, you know.  Some he sold for as high as two hundred and fifty dollars.  None of the California chivalry of that day was of the e&acute;lite unless possessed of one of Price's knives.  All of these knives were bound in silver, encased in silver scabbards and the handles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Meiggs' Wharf, a favorite resort in the early days of San Francisco.  Alcatraz Island on extreme right</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A proclamation of June 9th, 1856.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>I have had my knife for fifty-two years, and it came to me in this wise:</P>
166.sgm:<P>During the reign of the second great San Francisco Vigilance Committee in 1856 I was superintendent of the recruiting service in that city for the Walker-Rivas army in Nicaragua.<ANCHOR ID="n4-4">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: On the 5th of August I went aboard the steamer <HI REND="italics">Corte&acute;z</HI>
166.sgm: with nearly a hundred men, arms, ammunition, drum corps and all that pertains to a well organized military command.  Strange as it may seem old Jimmie Dowes, a leading member of the Vigilance Committee and one of San Francisco's wealthy men, proposed to turn over to me all of the arms and equipment of the City Guards, an organization that had disbanded and joined the Vigilance forces.  Why they sold their equipment to Dowes I never knew, but Dowes disposed of it all to me.  With the assistance of a deputy United States Marshal, Lewis D. Watkins, afterward a general in the U.S. Army during the great rebellion, we conveyed the arms and equipment down to the wharf and, with United States Marshal James Duffy looking on, stored them aboard the <HI REND="italics">Corte&acute;z</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Well, as to my famous Price knife: at the time of which I speak David S. Terry was locked up in Fort Gunnybags, the prison and stronghold of the Vigilance Committee.  During the evening preceding the sailing date of the <HI REND="italics">Corte&acute;z</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>These men were all good friends of mine, although I was just twenty-five years old at the time and they were all at least middle-aged.  Nevertheless I was much surprised at their generosity when they began making presents to me, including a pair of Natchez's best revolvers, one of Price's best knives and a sword.  Soon I was made to realize that there was something in the wind as my visitors seated themselves very seriously and Major Roman said:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"We have positive information that Judge Terry<ANCHOR ID="n4-5">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: is to be shipped off to Nicaragua to-morrow on board the <HI REND="italics">Corte&acute;z</HI>
166.sgm:.  He is being forcibly deported by the party in power.  You are going on that steamer with your arms and recruits for William Walker.  Now this is what we want you to promise us, and it will make you the most important young man in California if you do: we want you to compel the captain of the <HI REND="italics">Corte&acute;z</HI>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-5">Judge Terry of the State Supreme Court was in disfavor with the Vigilance Committee because of his opposition to its methods.  At a mass meeting in Portsmouth Square, San Francisco, his remarks led to a personal quarrel during which Judge Terry stabbed his opponent.  Judge Terry was arrested by the Vigilance forces and imprisoned in Fort Gunnybags, where his fate was debated.  It was decided that the execution of a justice of the Supreme Court would be impolitic, and that it would be better to expel him from the country.  However, the Judge's victim recovered, public excitement cooled and the Judge was finally released.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>What wild schemes, what adventurous plans were concocted overnight in those early years of the Golden State!  I was as ripe for adventure as any one else, and I promised those plotters that I would force the <HI REND="italics">Corte&acute;z</HI>
166.sgm: into San Pedro, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:march on Los Angeles with Judge Terry and see him started on the recruiting campaign that was to raise an army to march against the Vigilance Committee in San Francisco!  But fortunately, probably, for all concerned, <illus entity="a166-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Courtesy California State Library</HI>
166.sgm:though I regret to disappoint my readers by ending the story so abruptly, Judge Terry was not shipped out of the country on the <HI REND="italics">Corte&acute;z</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>While on the subject of the San Francisco of those days I am tempted to mention the official activities of one of the most important politicians of the city--Jim Cunningham, coroner.  Jim was a great coroner, no mistake about it, very active officially.  So active that it caused his arrest and deportation when the Vigilance Committee was deporting right and left.  This is how it happened:</P>
166.sgm:<P>The river steamboats used to land at Long Wharf at ten or eleven o'clock at night on their trips down from Marysville, Sacramento and Stockton.  Long Wharf was full of holes and unlighted.  Occasionally some carpetbagger would drop through and his body would be fished out in the morning and sent to Mr. Cunningham's headquarters for an inquest.  This was a very lucrative business for the coroner, especially when the subject arrived at the coroner's office before his pockets were picked.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But after a time the municipal authorities stopped up the holes on the wharf and supplied oil lamps along its length.  Then Jim didn't average more than one inquest a day.  But Jim arranged it so that when he did possess himself of a healthy corpse he would hold his inquest and charge up his fees; then during the night Mr. Corpse would be taken down to Long Wharf, dumped over and fished up next morning.  The coroner would thus make it possible to hold six or seven inquests on the same subject.  If Jim's enterprise was known to other officials they said little about it, for in municipal corporations when one official is made aware of the delinquency of another official he doesn't care to interfere, for reasons of his own, with the rounding up of perquisites and emoluments and fees.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But finally the Vigilance Committee yanked Jim the Coroner up and came very near hanging him, though his case ended in deportation.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Judge David Smith Terry. Justice of the Supreme Court of California, victor in the celebrated duel with United States Senator Broderick in 1859.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A Hanging.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>From the contemporary press of San Francisco.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 5</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Holy Mass and Three Card Monte</HI>
166.sgm:<P>EARLY in 1856 I joined General William Walker in Nicaragua and did not return to California until late in '57.  In January, 1859, I went to Mexico and took service under the immortal Benito Jua&acute;rez in his conflict with the reactionary party under Miramon.  In the latter part of this year I found myself in Tehuantepec; and at this point I would like to commemorate a weird adventure that befell me in that strange land.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I drifted down to the City of Tehuantepec after the Miramon affair was over and became a writer for the local press.  I was one of the <HI REND="italics">sa&acute;bios</HI>
166.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: and was rated by the populace as second only to my good friend Fraile Romero in education and wisdom.  This friar was a rollicking young soldier of the cross who dealt out religion in the church of Tehuantepec when not engaged in dealing monte to the light-hearted female portion of his not overly pious congregation.  In parenthesis I will add that it is not, neither should it be, a libel on the Mexican padre to accuse him of dealing monte or betting on that most interesting game of which all old Californians are so fond.  Fraile Romero would play monte, quaff his wine, comb the girls' hair with his delicate fingers, pat them on the cheeks with his soft palm, push them under the arms with his thumb and all that sort of Christian-like fun and made himself most popular and influential with his charges--a more popular person, I am <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:forced to acknowledge, than even I imagined myself to be with the belles of Tehuantepec.  Fraile Romero was a Christian, every inch of him, so the ladies proclaimed, and so I believe and will ever asseverate.  I loved him dearly and after the lapse of forty years consider it no detriment to my present dignity to confess that I also loved more than one of the select women friends of the roistering Reverend Romero.  "No one of flesh and blood can help it," was the way the pious padre would absolve us both, and to this doctrine I was ever ready to pledge my soul with a devotional <HI REND="italics">amen</HI>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">Wise ones, learned ones.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>El Fraile and I frequently became involved in theological discussions--the abstract variety, I mean, not the more easily settled moral questions on which we seemed pretty nearly agreed.  Being the reverse of reverend in my arguments the good father gave me the nickname <HI REND="italics">El Ba&acute;rbaro</HI>
166.sgm:, and the ladies, to pique the padre's vanity, added to my appellation the word <HI REND="italics">Hermoso</HI>
166.sgm:.  Thus I became known as <HI REND="italics">El Ba&acute;rbaro Hermoso</HI>
166.sgm:<P>For half a year I shared quarters with this jovial priest who presided over such a happy, carefree circle.  Then one day he came to me looking very downcast.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"What's the matter, amigo?"  I asked.  "One of the favorite girls going to get married?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Valgame Dios</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Have you been promoted away from here?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Promoted!  That's just what it is, but, <HI REND="italics">Santa Mari&acute;a</HI>
166.sgm:, what a promotion!  I am ordered by the bishop to shoulder my cross and go forth to convert the <HI REND="italics">ba&acute;rbaros</HI>
166.sgm: of the Coatzacoalcos, and worse still, of Chinameca."<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: The padre then began to tell me the story of Chinameca, an ancient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">In the southeastern part of the state of Vera Cruz.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Three hundred and eighty-two years have been registered on the cycle of time since then and, day and night, year in and year out, an Indian has stood on the summit of that ancient tower, ready to apprise the people of the return of Malinche in order that she may be received in a manner befitting the importance of the occasion.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Thus have these peculiar people remained true to their religion, their traditionary faith in the coming of their promised Redeemer, through these ages of woe which have crushed out the religion, liberty and manhood of millions of less fortunate tribes of Mexico.  The Indians of Chinameca are about the same now in dress and customs as they were when in 1519 Corte&acute;z fought his first battle in front of their capital and secured the person of the beautiful Malinche (Marina) who, it is claimed, did more toward the conquest of Mexico than any other one person except Corte&acute;z himself.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The people of Chinameca had always resisted the efforts of the Catholic priests to convert them and had persisted in their dogged adherence to the faith of their fathers.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Such was the place to which duty had called my society-loving friend Fraile Romero.  Great was the lamentation of the ladies of his flock when the news was made known.  But the men of the congregation somehow seemed pleased.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I will confess the whole town at a stiff price before leaving and make hard times for these fellows who remain in possession here," he declared acridly.  "You, amigo, will go with me and at least see me settled down in heathendom.  We will have a goodly supply of coin after the town is confessed and can supply ourselves with every available comfort."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The fraile filled his goblet and pushed the bottle toward me.  I followed suit and pledged him my company on the dreaded journey that was to wrest him from the voluptuous beauties of Tehuantepec.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In ten days we set forth, and will the reader believe me, it took fifteen mules to carry the missionary outfit of the churchman.  Our journey was to be through the mountains to Suchiltepec, where we would strike the head of navigation on the Coatzacoalcos River.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"And then," growled Fraile Romero, "I am doomed to stop a week at San Juan Guichicova and minister to those infernal mule-worshipers.  Then another week with the Africans.  May the wrath of heaven fall upon them!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>At the place first named there is a tribe of Indians possessed of a great number of mules, fat and fine, which they pamper and regard with as much religious veneration as the Hindoos regard their sacred bulls.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The second stopping place referred to by the reluctant missionary was inhabited by a vigorous colony of Africans descended from a cargo of slaves that mutinied, murdered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Such were the two places where Fraile Romero and myself were doomed to do penance for two weeks on our way to Suchil.  We did not do much business at San Juan Guichicova in the way of confessing the populace, and absolutely none at all among the Africans; but we took in quite a quantity of small coin at monte.  The padre in the meantime instructed me in the mysteries of the mass and the confessional.  I learned to chant <HI REND="italics">Dominus Vobiscum et cum spiritu tuo</HI>
166.sgm: with great unction.  But the heathenish Guichicovans refused to take any stock in me in a religious ro&circ;le, so I finally turned my entire attention to corralling their <HI REND="italics">reales</HI>
166.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">medios</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Arriving finally at Suchil our <HI REND="italics">arrieros</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Curious that such a female personage as the river native described should reign here in the tropical wilderness, we climbed to the plateau above and found a large plantation of oranges, plantains, bananas and pineapples in the highest state of cultivation.  And who do you imagine Don&tilde;a Margarita to have been?  None other than Mrs. Margaret Brewer, who lived here with her two daughters and one son, full-blooded Americans, surrounded entirely by natives.  Here in the very heart of this jungle dwelt these four Americans, their own brave hearts and strong wills their only security.</P>
166.sgm:<P>My astonishment knew no limit as I learned what a power in the land was Don&tilde;a Margarita, and with what fearless activity she managed her estate.  The girls would remain in charge of the plantation while the mother, accompanied by her young son, would load a bongo with fruit and with a crew of her native employees float down to Minatitla&acute;n, sell her produce, purchase necessary goods and, always steering the big canoe herself, voyage back to the plantation and to her really magnificent home.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Mrs. Brewer was the widow of a Maine sea captain who had been in the mahogany trade to this coast.  He had died at Minatitla&acute;n, leaving a cargo and other interests in the country.  His widow came out to settle up his affairs and the business took her so long that she became attached to the region and settled down.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Early the following morning we left this hospitable Yankee abode in the tropical wilderness and floated down to Minatitla&acute;n, then proceeded to Chinameca, several leagues distant.  A part of the way we passed over a most beautiful prairie where Corte&acute;z fought his first battle on Mexican soil.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Chinameca we found to be a large town built for the most part in the style of the country, the habitations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:consisting of posts set in the ground, canes lashed horizontally thereto and then plastered with mud.  The better ones were whitewashed and all were thatched.  The old tower-like temple, however, was of solid construction and although it was only about fifty feet high and thirty feet square at the base it stood out prominently.  It was made of a kind of concrete with a sort of sentry box on its summit, palm thatched, where sat the perpetual watcher for the return of Malinche.  Because of certain events that happened to us here later in this ancient edifice I am led to describe it rather in detail.  On the ground floor was a large room with several smaller ones opening out of it, while a stairway at the opposite side ascended to a room above, and so on up, with a zigzag turn through two more superimposed rooms to the summit.  On the stairway on the ground floor was a rude closet-like place which, on our first inspection, we did not notice at all.  In the middle of the groundfloor apartment was a pile of rude masonry about four feet high, six feet square at the base and four feet square at the top.  The place was without light or ventilation and when we were shown <HI REND="italics">el edificio anciano</HI>
166.sgm:<P>There were few even nominal Christians in Chinameca and I greatly deplored the misfortune of Fraile Romero, doomed to remain here until recalled by the bishop.  The governor, or Indian alcalde, with whom the padre and I were quartered, was a soft, benevolent kind of an elderly person who declared himself to be a Christian but said his people were <HI REND="italics">muy cabesudo</HI>
166.sgm: --very stubborn.  There had been trouble recently between Chinameca and a neighboring town called Cosaleacaca and blood had been freely spilled on both sides.  It seemed that the Chinamecans had taken the initiative and invaded the territory of their neighbors, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>We were not sufficiently familiar with the situation to realize the danger until one morning about ten days after our arrival the storm burst in demoniac fury when there erupted into Chinameca about two hundred infuriated Cosaleacacans.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Machetes and clubs were their only weapons.  The Chinamecans were surprised, in spite of the governor's forebodings, and were slaughtered mercilessly.  Houses were burned, women and children horribly mutilated, men and boys cut into pieces.  From the governor's house we witnessed these horrid scenes, expecting every moment that the attack would be turned against our establishment and that we would be served in like manner.  Along toward noon the Chinamecans made a desperate rally and drove the enemy from the town, but they returned ree&die;nforced and the fighting continued with varying success until a night of pitchy darkness drew a mantle over the scene of diabolical cruelty.  Victory seemed to rest with our Chinamecans, for the enemy retired.  We had witnessed enough fighting to have killed half the Indians of Mexico if they had fought as our northern Indians fight, but as a truthful historian I am forced to state that I saw a greater amount of cruelty and cowardice, and less of bravery, on that day than I thought possible of the human race.</P>
166.sgm:<P>We thought the danger over with, but our relief was brief for it developed that we were now in for it from the Chinamecans themselves.  About nine o'clock at night the alcalde came and warned us that our lives were in danger, that his house and authority would no longer protect us, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"No time is to be lost," urged the alcalde.  But where were we to go?  In the pitchy darkness we could never follow the jungle trail back to Minatitla&acute;n.  The alcalde said our only hope was to let him conceal us in the old temple until the moon rose at 2 A.M. when, if possible, he would guide us into the jungle and set us on the proper trail.</P>
166.sgm:<P>So after several times barely avoiding detection we reached the temple with the governor, who stuffed us into the small aperture under the stairway and hurried away saying he would return if he could when the moon rose.  The watcher under the thatch high up on the tower had not detected us.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I suggested to my fellow prisoner, the padre, that he should have brought some holy water with which to sanctify the infernal place.  He replied by passing me an earthen flask from beneath his priestly garment.  I raised it and swallowed a most exhilarating drought therefrom.  Returning it to the friar I heard it gurgling at his lips, whereby I was informed that he knew as well as I the best way to use "holy water."</P>
166.sgm:<P>We now heard a great clamor growing ever louder and nearer.  Stuffing rubbish into the small opening whereby we had entered our cubbyhole we extinguished our stub of a candle and remained in Stygian darkness.  But not for long, for soon shafts of light broke through the crevices <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:in our barricade as about twenty Indians, some bearing torches, entered the main room of the temple, dragging two bound prisoners, which they laid on the floor in front of the pyramid or altar before described.  The Indians ranged themselves in two parallel lines facing the pyramid, while two of them raised to the summit of the pyramid a dark convex block apparently of mahogany.  Two others with an instrument called a <HI REND="italics">macana</HI>
166.sgm:<P>In a few moments a recess in the opposite wall was exposed, revealing, in the light of torches planted each side of it, a horrid image--the most infernal looking object that devils in hell could conceive.  One of the two who had assisted in arranging the altar, now arrayed in a scarlet robe, took from the hand of the image a knife.  While he mumbled something in a sepulchral voice others seized one of the prisoners and spread him on the dark block, face upward.  Five others held him fast, one at his head, one at each hand and one at each foot.  Then the demon in the red robe deliberately cut the victim's heart out and with a guttural chanting deposited it in a boiling cauldron which had been arranged in front of the image in the recess.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The body of the first victim was then thrown onto the floor and the second victim seized and served in the same manner.</P>
166.sgm:<P>A stifled moan escaped Fraile Romero and a dizzy, sickening feeling overcame me.  I suppose I lost consciousness from the combination of emotional shock and the stifling atmosphere of our cell, because the next I knew all was dark and silent again in the temple.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Soon I heard a muffled footstep; the gleam of a candle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Apparently the governor was profoundly ignorant of all that had transpired in the ghastly place that night for he seemed uninterested and unemotional, except that he was provoked at our lingering to glance about in awed amazement at the silent old temple so recently aglow with torches, spurting human blood and savage figures performing the horrific ancient mysteries.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Come on, hurry!" he demanded, and soon we were in the fresh air, breathing deeply and half inclined to believe that it had all been a nightmare.  As we followed our guide the padre and I sprinkled our throats once more with "holy water" to restore our power of speech and conferred together in whispers.  No, it was indeed real what I had witnessed, for the padre had seen the same, detail by detail.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The governor had ponies waiting at the edge of the jungle and he himself rode with us to Minatitla&acute;n.  Safely there he promised to send our baggage after us when the excitement should have subsided sufficiently for him to smuggle it out.  Then, with a sigh of genuine relief at getting us safely off his hands, the loyal representative of the majesty and might of the Mexican Republic bid us a hasty adio&acute;s.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Sure enough, after some days our baggage arrived in Minatitla&acute;n under guidance of the good alcalde.  Whereupon Fraile Romero announced that he was going straight back to Tehuantepec even at the risk of excommunication; and back he went.  But first he begged me that what we had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>How the priest came out with the bishop I never knew, for immediately on my return to Tehuantepec with him I took passage for San Francisco and saw no more of the genial companion with whom I had gone adventuring to the birthplace of beautiful Don&tilde;a Marina, beloved of the great Corte&acute;z.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>John Temple</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 6</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">How Ran Runnels Decorated the Ramparts of Panama&acute;</HI>
166.sgm:<P>IT seemed that all of the great thieves, highwaymen, gamblers and general desperados, or at least the ablest of them, were congregated at Panama&acute; from 1849 to 1854, when those who had not been shot or hanged came to California.  Along the Chagres River and the road across the Isthmus were stationed at so-called roadside inns these cut-throats, and the number of returning miners robbed and murdered could never be estimated.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Finally the steamship and railroad companies (the railroad was under course of construction) proposed a plan to the Panama&acute; state government, which was to authorize the appointment of a man to be paid by the American companies but to have absolute and arbitrary power from the government to inflict the death penalty summarily without the usual court processes.  This, argued the companies, is the only way to rid the Isthmus of this intolerable banditti.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The local government agreed, with the result that a slight built, diminutive, beardless American boy was invested with this frightful power of life and death without accountability.  He was Ran Runnels, of whom we spoke in a former book of reminiscences where we told of the part he took with the author in the great Panama&acute; riot and massacre of 1856.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At the time of his appointment to the head of the Isthmus patrol and secret service Ran may have been twenty-two or twenty-three years old, but he did not look over eighteen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>He sent his men out as secret agents, the negroes to work among the blacks who were suspected of alliance with the robbers, the Americans associating with the English-speaking riffraff and the mestizos with the native element.  Then lo! one morning, to the astonishment of the city, thirty-seven corpses of all colors were found hanging from the ramparts of Panama&acute;.  Acting on information gathered by his agents Ran had swept the gold road from the Chagres to the Pacific, and the first fruits of his campaign were displayed along the seawall.  How the dead men came there, who hanged them, was left to the speculation of the populace.  No information was given out; the secret operators were well enough paid to induce loyalty to the cause in which they were enlisted, and they couldn't afford to talk, anyway, or their own lives would have been forfeit.</P>
166.sgm:<P>What struck the populace with most consternation and awe was the fact that in this first exhibit of dead robbers were the bodies of several prominent citizens of Panama&acute; City!</P>
166.sgm:<P>The criminal fraternity lay low for two or three months, trying to figure out what had happened; then conditions became dangerous again, and once more Panama&acute; experienced the thrill of awakening one morning to find an even larger assortment of bodies suspended by the necks from the timbers jutting out of the masonry along the waterfront.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was not long before Ran Runnels' campaign had made travel across the Isthmus as safe from bandits and sharpers, for the time being at least, as a journey from Boston to Salem.  Some of the crooks escaped, disconcerted by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Among the most eminent of these gentry that complimented California with a visit were two whom I particularly remember, Jim Holmes and Jim McLean, both big, handsome, athletic, educated and apparently well-mannered Americans--but cut-throat robbers, nevertheless.  The author had the distinguished honor of personal acquaintance with these two celebrities.  They honored San Francisco by their arrival in 1854.  Holmes was gathered into the fold at San Quentin<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">Principal State Prison of California.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>I forget what it was that caused Mr. Holmes to reside temporarily at San Quentin; but it was apparent that he was too great a man, too useful to certain classes of the outside world, to be kept inside prison walls for any considerable period of time.  So in March, '56, our then great, beer-drinking governor of California, John Bigler, pardoned him.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was like this.  By some means or other Jim Holmes entered into negotiations with John Bigler for his freedom.  He represented to the governor that he had $200,000 worth of gold dust buried on the Isthmus of Panama&acute;, and that if His Excellency would only let him out he would make an equal divvy.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Jim Holmes went free.  He immediately sailed for Panama&acute;, accompanied by an agent of the governor.  The author was a passenger on the same steamer.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Oh, what a swell Mr. James Holmes did cut on that boat!  Many thought he was a statesman on his way to Washington, others that he was a confidential agent for Cornelius Vanderbilt, on whose steamer we were traveling, which appeared probable because he certainly seemed to own the vessel.  Some contended he was Sir Harry Huntley, an eminent English traveler who was then doing the Pacific Coast incog.  But a few of us on board knew who the fellow was and somebody let the secret out.  But that the gentleman was an eminent cut-throat and Isthmus robber only increased the awe with which he was regarded by the majority of his fellow passengers, because Jim, when the cat got out of the bag, told an appealing story of how the fair treatment he had received from the authorities in California had made a new man of him, had reformed him; that now he was going down to claim a fortune which awaited him so that henceforth he could live a good and charitable life.  After this sentimental outburst most of the passengers seemed to deem it an honor to touch the hem of the convert's garment, and Mr. James Holmes stalked around the steamer with all the dignity of a mastiff in the presence of poodles.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Having once set foot in Panama&acute; Mr. Holmes gave the governor's confidential agent the cold shake.  He advised the gent to go back to Governor Bigler with his compliments and tell him that he would lay for him the next time His Excellency crossed the Isthmus going east.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But like most men of his type his boastful self-confidence was his undoing.  Holmes had been banished from the Isthmus by Ran Runnels and he was now rashly counting without his host.  Jim had scarcely imbibed his third cocktail at "The Shades," a popular Panama&acute; resort, when gendarmes encircled him with bayonets on the ends of old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>It is not to be inferred that only men eminent in a criminal way distinguished the Pacific Coast in those days, though one is tempted to pick these out as the most entertaining to write about.  Some of the most remarkable characters that have illumined the world's history within the past fifty years were somehow or other identified with California in her golden age, 1849 and the early '50's.  The Californian connections of some of the great writers and artists of various kinds in that period are familiar to the public, but there is also a list of military and naval names that afterward became eminent.  For instance: Grant, Sherman, Stoneman, Hooker, Halleck, Mansfield, Steadman, all of whom later won fame on the field of carnage.  Even grand old Farragut was a familiar figure at the Oriental Hotel in San Francisco when he was in command of the Mare Island Navy Yard.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Speaking of General Mansfield, who was killed in one of McClellan's battles on the Potomac, reminds me of two other California Mansfields, one killed in a brawl in Stockton in 1853, the other elected lieutenant-governor in 1879.  This Mansfield, the lieutenant-governor, during his popularity in California was thought to be <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The other Mansfield, who was shot down by John Tabor, a rival newspaper editor, left two little daughters, very beautiful, very smart.  They went on the stage.  What <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Josie was ten years old when her father was killed.  She was just sixteen, possessed of a strange, dark beauty, when the actor Lawler married her in San Francisco in 1859.  Her husband did his meager best to reform her, but this modern Nana, after Lawler went broke over her extravagance, disappeared from his life at the end of one year.  From 1860 to 1867 her location was a mystery.  Ignorant and unpolished as Lawler's wife, she reappeared seven years later in the polished company of Annie Woods, an actress who knew high livers and men who "went the pace."  Among the latter was Col. Jim Fisk, Jr.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Josie Mansfield--she had dropped the Lawler through the medium of divorce--soon had Fisk under her Circe-like enchantment.  The beautiful, but uncut, unpolished gem of 1859 was now a brilliant, flashing woman of the world.  But when she met Fisk her last dollar was gone and she was arrayed in her last gown.  By 1868 she occupied a splendid mansion with servants, jewels and equipages.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Those who basked under her smiles at this time describe her as of fair skin, lustrous as a lily, with broad white brow covered with masses of silky black hair, like clusters of rich grapes--fruit of the vine from the garden of Bacchus.  Long gold hoops, gypsy-like, hung from her tiny pink-tinted ears.  Small, plump hands with faultless nails and a figure of ravishing curves finished off by tiny feet, completed her ensemble with the exception of her eyes.  Gray eyes they were, full of sorcery, fitful as a tropical sea with phosphorescent gleams.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This was the queen who now reigned in the brownstone <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>It was at one of these feasts that Fisk, boasting of his power, declared: "I have this city and state in the hollow of my hand.  I think I'll have an act of legislature passed changing its name to Fiskville."</P>
166.sgm:<P>With carmine lips close to his ear and in her softly sweet voice Josie Mansfield said, "Why not name New York after me?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"By God," exclaimed Fisk, "you're beautiful enough to have this town named after you!  Now let's see--Josie is hardly dignified enough, is it?  Ah, I have it!  You're as fair as Helen of Troy.  Henceforth I'll call you Helen and name New York Helena!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>This was our little Stockton girl of the '50's.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Juan A&acute;bila</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 7</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Historic Treasure Buried in Cahuenga Pass</HI>
166.sgm:<P>IN 1866 Don Jesu&acute;s Marti&acute;nez, a native of Sonora but long a respected citizen of Los Angeles, resided on the south side of Washington Street near Georgia Bell Street.<ANCHOR ID="n7-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1a">Named for the author's first wife.  Now called simply Georgia Street.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>One day while convalescing Moreno called his host to his side and said: "My good friend, you have been very kind to me.  You succored me when as you thought I was destitute, you nourished me back to bodily strength.  But I am not poor, Don Jesu&acute;s, I am rich, and I propose to reward you."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The two friends were sitting under a grape arbor enjoying their siesta when Moreno began to speak, and great was the astonishment of Don Jesu&acute;s at what he heard as he moved over closer to the sick man, who continued:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Don Jesu&acute;s, you marvel at what I say, but if you will hear my story patiently the whole mystery of my being a rich man will be made clear to you."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Don Diego, I am all attention.  Proceed before I die of curiosity."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Your gracious interest compliments me greatly, Don Jesu&acute;s.  Thus unfolds the tale: A year or more ago I was engaged as a herder and general helper on a rancho near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Fancy Ball, California Exchange, San Francisco.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Lodging Room in San Francisco.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Suffering Immigrants.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>French Shoeblacks.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:San Francisco.  It was not far from San Bruno.  I had the full confidence of my <HI REND="italics">patron</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Finally satisfied with their excavation they placed the packages therein, filled the hole and smoothed off the loose earth.  Then they gathered fuel and built a fire over the spot; then sat down, ate some refreshments, smoked and chatted, remounted and disappeared over the ridge.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"That evening, after corralling my little herd and performing my ranch duties I took a spade and returned secretly to the place of mystery among the liveoaks.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I dug up the packages.  I am telling you, Don Jesu&acute;s, that although they were not of such great size, each package was so heavy that I could barely carry one under each arm and had to make three trips that night conveying them to my cabin.  After covering over every opening in my cabin through which I might be spied on I dared open one of the packages.  It contained gold doubloons, gold watches and fine jewelry.  Of the value I had no idea.  Such was my alarm and so confusing were my emotions that I made no attempt to make an inventory, but quickly covered up the treasure, concealed it and put out the candle.  All night I lay on my blankets, gun and knife beside me, unable to sleep, turning over in my brain the mystery of the three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"For a month this great treasure lay concealed in my cabin without my touching it again, and I tell you, <HI REND="italics">amigo mi&acute;o</HI>
166.sgm:, that the battle between fear and avarice was almost bursting my brain.  But I knew which way the battle was going; I knew I must soon feast my eyes upon it <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"At last one night by a flickering taper I opened the second package and spread its contents upon my blanket.  There I beheld one hundred gold doubloons, a good many fine watches with their chains and three or four pint cups full of diamonds, emeralds, rubies and pearls, some still set in necklaces, pins, ear-rings and finger-rings.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"It all seemed to be typical Mexican jewelry, which puzzled me very much, for here we were now living in an American state and the Mexican population very poor.  The doubloons were Spanish and Mexican money.  The watches were of an ancient character and some bore dates of absolute antiquity.  I was convinced that all this treasure had been brought up from below the border.  But by whom?  Why?</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Opening the remaining packages I found the contents all about the same and each package wrapped exactly alike, in buckskin, with the coins separately arranged.  I bound them up exactly as I had found them, hid them away and continued with the losing battle in my mind.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"After three months I went to my <HI REND="italics">patron</HI>
166.sgm: and told him I wished to draw my wages and return to my old home in Mexico.  He expressed his regret and balanced my account, paying me a month's extra wages which enabled me to buy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Finally my journeying brought me close to the Pueblo de los Angeles and, night overtaking me on the southern slope of the Cahuenga Pass, I stopped at a roadside <HI REND="italics">jacal</HI>
166.sgm: at a spot near where the road crosses the <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
166.sgm:.  This mean tavern was kept by a countryman of ours with whom I struck up an acquaintance.  It was my intention to proceed the next day by the brea pits road<ANCHOR ID="n7-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1b">This road led to the Pueblo across Rancho la Brea by way of the same <HI REND="italics">brea</HI>
166.sgm: or asphaltum tar pools in which was discovered some years ago the great collection of prehistoric animal skeletons now housed in the Los Angeles County Museum at Exposition Park.  These animals became entangled in the treacherous tar in the Pleistocene period while hunting and preying on other animals thus entangled and their bones were perfectly preserved beneath the oily mass.  It is the greatest discovery of the kind ever made.  From these pits have been taken to date the remains of 2,000 dire wolves, 1,500 sabertooth tigers, twenty imperial elephants and mastodons, seventy-five horses, thirty-five camels, one hundred and fifty prehistoric buffalo, thirteen ground sloths, sixty giant sloths, twenty lions and numberless lesser animals and fowls.  From the surface crust of these springs the inhabitants of Los Angeles in the Spanish and Mexican re&acute;gimes took the <HI REND="italics">brea</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"One night, everything being quiet in the tavern, I slipped out with the treasure to a previously selected spot on the side of the pass about half way from the <HI REND="italics">jacal</HI>
166.sgm: to the summit on the hillside opposite the main road, and buried it.  I buried it in six different holes, taking measurements from a fresno tree east, west, north and south.<ANCHOR ID="n7-2a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-2a">The tavern stood near the present junction of Cahuenga and Highland avenues.  The treasure was apparently buried about opposite the famous Hollywood Bowl.  A fresno is a Western ash tree.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>"So you see, my good Don Jesu&acute;s, your condescending patience in hearing my long story will have been exerted not in vain--not in va--"</P>
166.sgm:<P>At this very moment Diego Moreno was seized with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Soon thereafter Jesu&acute;s Marti&acute;nez with his stepson, Gumisindo Correa, then fourteen or fifteen years old, went to Cahuenga Pass and searched for the deceased Moreno's treasure.  They pretended to be wood choppers.  Just as the fresno tree was located Sen&tilde;or Marti&acute;nez fell down in a fit and died.  The boy, Gumisindo, filled with superstitious terror, fled and did not resume the quest.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Along about 1885 or '86 a Basque sheepherder was grazing a flock in the pass when he noticed that his dog paid particular attention to a certain spot.  Every day that the flock grazed up through the pass the dog would go to this same spot and sniff and dig.  Examination showed no indication of an animal's burrow to excite the dog, yet he would dig and dig.</P>
166.sgm:<P>So the Basque decided to dig.  He dug up a package rolled in buckskin.  It contained exactly one hundred doubloons of gold and a large amount of jewelry.  In great excitement he took it to his friend Etchepare, the tavernkeeper in the pass.  He gave him some part of the treasure and pledged him to secrecy; with the remainder of the swag he left for the land of his ancestors in the Pyrenees.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The tavernkeeper later let the secret out, but it was taken for granted that the sheepherder had made a cleanup of whatever loot there was and treasure hunting in that vicinity was dropped.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Now, let us go back a little in a hunt for the origin of this loot and introduce Captain Henry Malcolm, who came to Los Angeles about 1874.  The captain was a Maine man, a soldier of fortune.  He had been my messmate and friend in the Walker "Filibuster" War in Nicaragua, commanding a battery of howitzers.  A Maine man is generally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">From the Ingersoll Historical Collection, Los Angeles Public Library</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Of course I was overjoyed to see him in Los Angeles and he spent most of his time at my office, where we fought over the battles in Nicaragua and rehearsed the remarkable adventures we had shared during those memorable months.  One day we were discussing the subject of Granada after it was sacked by General Heningsen under orders of General Walker.  At the time of the sack of Granada I was on the transit route, guarding it from invasion from Costa Rica.  The transit route was a big, broad smoothly graded turnpike built by Cornelius Vanderbilt for the transfer of his passengers from his Atlantic to his Pacific steamers during the California gold excitement and extended from Virgin Bay on Lake Nicaragua to San Juan del Sur on the Pacific.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This day in my office in Los Angeles Captain Malcolm was telling me the details of how the loot taken from the old churches by Walker was handled; of how he, Malcolm, had been chosen by Walker one of ten men to convey it to a secret burial place and how day after day from the moment of the hiding of this loot one or the other of the ten men would die a violent death, some immediately that an action with the enemy began, others from mysterious bullets fired by snipers or by seeming accident, until only he was left of the group that had held the secret of the hiding place of the two tons of silver and gold plate, holy images and symbols.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Malcolm said that he had begun to be suspicious that there was human design behind the quick deaths of nine of that group of ten, and when he was singled out by Walker for a mission that apparently meant sure death, he decided that he was warranted in looking to his own safety.  So while <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"There it is, worth at least $200,000, still buried down there, for General Walker's end came before he could reap the benefits of it.  I--and now you and I--hold the secret, Major.  But I have no luck with buried treasure.  I buried treasure in California once--how it happened and how it disappeared was the strangest thing that ever happened to me."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Naturally I pressed him for the details, and this is the amazing story he told:</P>
166.sgm:<P>During the Maximilian<ANCHOR ID="n7-2b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-2b">Ferdinand Maximilian, Emperor of Mexico, second son of Archduke Francis Charles and brother of Emperor Francis Joseph of Austria.  In 1863 he was offered the crown of Mexico by a party of Mexican exiles led by clericals opposed to the recent secularization of the Church by President Benito Jua&acute;rez.  France had long had designs on Mexico and Napoleon III backed up Maximilian with thirty thousand French soldiers in his pretensions to the throne.  Renouncing his imperial rights in Austria Maximilian entered Mexico City in June, 1864, and became Emperor.  He was accompanied by his young wife, Princess Charlotte of Belgium, who became Empress Carlota of Mexico.  The President of Mexico, Benito Jua&acute;rez, aroused the patriotic portion of the population to a frenzy of resistance, but in spite of his efforts the French drove him back almost to the United States border.  In 1865 Secretary of State Seward of the United States delivered an ultimatum to Napoleon III demanding withdrawal of French troops from the American continent as a violation of the Monroe Doctrine.  Napoleon was forced to yield and began the withdrawal in 1866.  The Empress Carlota made a hasty trip to France to plead against the desertion of Maximilian but to no avail and her distress was so great over the probable fate of her husband that she lost her mind.  The forces of Jua&acute;rez prevailed over Maximilian supporters after the withdrawal of the French and the Austrian was captured at Quere&acute;taro.  After courtmartial he was shot June 19, 1867.  The ex-Empress Carlota lived until January 19, 1927, dying in the Cha&circ;teau de Bouchout near Brussels, in her native Belgium, without having regained her normal mind.  The whole world had regarded the Empress Carlota with a sympathetic feeling ever since the tragedy that shattered her bright hopes so early, and she died one of the widely known figures of history.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>"Why," said Malcolm, "talk about patriotism, you never saw anything like it.  Women with rings on their fingers not worth a dollar would rush in and contribute them, while aristocrats with diamonds and pearls that had been heirlooms for generations threw them into the common heap until it was estimated that $200,000 had been acquired in this way, without counting the cash contributions."</P>
166.sgm:<P>A friend of General Vega, a man of great character and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>On the voyage up the special agent, who alone had authority to spend the treasure, died suddenly and mysteriously.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"We had to be extremely careful of our treasure," said Malcolm, "for we knew that not only had Mazatla&acute;n been infested with Maximilian spies but that San Francisco was full of them; and we suspected now, of course, that there were enemy agents aboard our ship.  We finally landed with it safely in San Francisco and went to the Russ House, where we held a consultation.  I suggested that we deposit it with some business house in San Francisco until we could communicate with General Vega, but Captain Da&acute;vila insisted that it should be buried somewhere so that the secret of its presence in California should rest with us alone.  The Englishman seconded him, so we took it out into the hills, first making our own inventory of it, taking out enough to defray additional expenses which would now face us, and wrapping it up in six separate packages covered with buckskin.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"We buried the packages in the hills beyond San Bruno, smoothed over the ground and built a fire over the spot.  Of course we took bearings in detail so that we could return to the location without difficulty.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"In response to our urgent message sent by return steamer, Gen. Placido Vega himself came to San Francisco to expend the treasure.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Captain Da&acute;vila, the Englishman and myself rode out to our secret spot in the hills and dug for our six precious packages.  They had been removed!  They were gone!</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Our consternation was beyond words.  The Mexican turned on the Englishman and accused him of stealing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Well," continued Captain Malcolm, "I have experienced a great many surprises, mortifications, terrors, but I was never in a situation like this before.  In a daze I mounted and rode back to San Francisco.  I laid the whole matter before General Vega.  Crushed as he was by the terrible news, he exonerated me from blame and held me above suspicion."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Now, to continue further with the accounting of our large cast of characters in this tragedy of treasure trove: When the Tombstone gold strike was made in Arizona in the '80's, Captain Malcolm went there.  I presented him with a fine shot gun before he left.  He settled on a waterhole and laid claim to it.  One day a man came along who claimed prior right to the water, and during the ensuing argument the stranger picked up the shot gun which I had presented to Malcolm and shot him dead.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Young Correa, who had accompanied Marti&acute;nez on the hunt for the fresno tree in Cahuenga Pass, overcame his superstitious dread after he reached manhood and renewed the search for the tree.  But he could find none; the inference was that some woodchopper had felled it.</P>
166.sgm:<P>About 1891 or '92 I happened to meet Correa and related to him the circumstance of the Basque sheepherder having actually found treasure in the pass and also told him Captain Malcolm's story.  His interest was at once revived and he solicited my aid in a plan to find the treasure.  He proposed that we rent the land for farming purposes, that we clear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>We entered into an agreement to do this.  While I was negotiating with the owners of the land poor Gumisindo Correa was shot down in the streets of Los Angeles by an assassin.  The murderer or his motive was never known.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Some time later I was conversing with Etchepare, the tavernkeeper, about the startling chain of events connected with the treasure hunt in Cahuenga Pass and he said: "Oh, I forgot to tell you about my friend the Basque sheepherder.  He never reached home with his treasure.  He was so fearful of losing it that he made himself a buckskin garment extending the length of his body from his arm pits to his hips, with straps from the shoulders.  He quilted it and stowed the treasure under the quilting.  Arriving at Barcelona he stood on the rail of the steamer in high glee waving to supposed friends on the distant dock.  He lost his balance, fell into the sea and sank like a lead brick."</P>
166.sgm:<P>I abandoned my plan to unearth the Mazatla&acute;n treasure, and I do not know that any one else has ever taken up the hunt.  There it lies along the road that leads down through La Nopalera<ANCHOR ID="n7-3">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-3">"The Cactus Patch" as the location of modern Hollywood was once called.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Mind you, the characters named in the above account are not imaginary people.  Jose&acute; Gumisindo Correa, for instance, was an honorable and substantial citizen of Los Angeles, held several offices of trust, was at one time on the police <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Ygna&acute;cio Del Valle</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 8</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles During the Civil War</HI>
166.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES was ardently Southern in its sentiments at the outbreak of the great War of Secession.  The leading men of the county were for the Jeff Davis government first, last and all the time.  Men loyal to the United States Government were in a hopeless minority.  The whole mob was composed of Secessionists.  All the office-seekers, the foragers at the public crib, the thieves, gamblers and general vagrants were of that persuasion.  And I may truthfully say that vagrants were a power in this land.  By vagrants I mean men who were living in illicit intercourse with the low class Mexican and Indian women.  These men were not only powerful as a voting influence, they were also petty politicians and office holders.</P>
166.sgm:<P>To illustrate the influence of this class let me go back of the war two or three years, that is, to 1858, and speak again of the uprising which has been dignified in history as the Juan Flores Revolution, and which I detailed in one of the chapters of an earlier book.</P>
166.sgm:<P>One ought to write true history or not write history at all; and with this in mind I state that a lewd Indian woman was the cause of the murder of Sheriff Barton, as a result of which a great many lives were sacrified on the altar of public vengeance.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1a">See Newmark's <HI REND="italics">Sixty Years in Southern California</HI>
166.sgm:<P>James R. Barton had been sheriff for two or three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Panorama of Los Angeles in the '50's looking north along Main Street (left) and Los Angeles Street (right).  <HI REND="italics">From an old lithograph</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Major Horace Bell about the time of the Civil War.  <HI REND="italics">From a painting</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Barton's woman left him and went to live with the Indians in a rancheria<ANCHOR ID="n8-2a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-2a">Indian village.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Two days later the sheriff arrested Andre&acute;s on a charge of horse stealing, had him indicted, tried, convicted and sent to San Quentin for two years.  When Fontes was placed on the stagecoach on his way to San Quentin he leaned out just as the driver was letting go the brakes and said to Sheriff Barton: "I am innocent.  You put up this job on me.  In two years I will return and kill you."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Andre&acute;s Fontes served his term and returned, his existence probably quite forgotten by those who had most to fear from him.  Soon unrest was manifested among the natives of San Juan Capistrano and vicinity.  It resulted in an uprising against American authority led by Juan Flores, an ardent Californian malcontent.  Andre&acute;s Fontes was not in evidence at the seat of disturbance; he let Flores have the limelight while he himself was taking note of Sheriff Barton's movements at the county seat.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The sheriff mustered a posse of ten men to go down and suppress the disorder.</P>
166.sgm:<P>As the sheriff and his force prepared to start southward Andre&acute;s Fontes slipped out ahead of them and rode straight for San Juan Capistrano.<ANCHOR ID="n8-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1b">Mission San Juan Capistrano was then in Los Angeles County.  The present Orange and San Bernardino counties and parts of Riverside and Kern counties were included in the original county of Los Angeles.  San Bernardino County to-day, with an area of 20,235 square miles, is the largest county in the United States.  Therefore the huge area of Los Angeles County as originally constituted may be imagined.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>When the two survivors struggled back into Los Angeles with the news the American population and the better class of all the elements rose in arms.  Indignation at the massacre boiled over and before it cooled again many lives were sacrificed to appease public clamor.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I repeat that I relate the above to verify the declaration heretofore made that the vagrant and the squawman was a power among us.  And this is the class and manner of men with a few highly honorable exceptions, that made up the Los Angeles County Secessionist mobs.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Los Angeles furnished three generals to the Confederates: Gen. Albert Sidney Johnston, killed at Shiloh; J. L. Brent, a lawyer, who won distinction in the service, and a man named Pearson, a surveyor who became a Texas brigadier.  There were colonels, majors and captains without end, besides about two hundred and fifty of the rank and file who were fitted out in Los Angeles County and sent over the desert to the Confederate forces in Texas.  These I do not class with the mob left behind; the generals above named were forthright men who had the strength of their convictions and sought the field of honor according to their lights.</P>
166.sgm:<P>There were two Los Angeles men and no more who actually fought in the Union army, I mean on the actual battlefields in the East.  One of them is the author of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The other Union soldier from Los Angeles who actually participated on the battlefields of the Civil War was Charles N. Jenkins.<ANCHOR ID="n8-2b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-2b">At one time <HI REND="italics">zanjero</HI>
166.sgm:, or water overseer, of the city of Los Angeles, when water was distributed in open <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Times were hot in Los Angeles during this historical period and the Secessionists had it all about their own way.  A small garrison of California Volunteers was maintained by the United States Army at Drum Barracks,<ANCHOR ID="n8-3a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: also a detachment at Ballona.<ANCHOR ID="n8-3b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-3b">Known as Fort Latham, just back of the present Playa Del Rey, where the Ballona estuary was a possible shipping and landing place for Southern sympathizers.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>On this occasion the garrisons at Wilmington and Ballona mustered their courage and their men and made a dash into Los Angeles, loaded the "patriots" into army ambulances and escaping successfully from the town with them, put the prisoners in camp chain gangs.  Among these unfortunates was Nigger Pete the barber, hero of some of the lighter incidents of early life in the Pueblo de los Angeles related in a former volume.  Pete won the cognomen during Secession <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Los Angeles at the close of the Rebellion was the most vindictive, uncompromising community in the United States.  It had not been chastened by the hand of war; it was eager to go on vociferating its bitterness long after regions which the conflict had laid waste were willing to quit.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Having served his country's flag for four years and eight months and having won a certain amount of distinction in that service, the extent of which may be discovered in the records of the War Department, the author returned to Los Angeles July 31, 1866, bought a ranch and settled down to peaceful agriculture.  I now had a wife, whom I had married in the East, and two little children.  My reception in the Pueblo was cold.  Old friends, with a few honorable exceptions such as Judge A. J. King and Col. E. J. C. Kewen, turned their backs on me.  "The idea," said they, "of a Los Angeles man of your stamp fighting on the side of the blacks!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>A short time after my return I narrowly escaped assassination on the road between Los Angeles and El Monte.  Failing to get me this time the El Monte "patriots" put up their greatest fighting man to chastise me, and here is what followed:</P>
166.sgm:<P>One afternoon I rode into town from my ranch, hitched my horse on Ducommun's corner<ANCHOR ID="n8-4a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: and went into Kraemer's store on Commercial Street to make a purchase for my wife.  While in there Polaski, an adjoining storekeeper, entered and whispered to me that a great big man was waiting outside with a whip, intending to chastise me.  Such a proposition seemed to me so absurd that I paid no attention; as a matter of fact I was quite proud of my war record and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-4a">Main and Commercial streets.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>I saw that it meant a fight so I said, "My dear sir, are you looking for me?"  He bristled up and drew back to strike with the blacksnake.  I threw the strength of a lifetime into one blow with my fist and caught the fellow on the ear.  Down he went his full length, tripping over a boot-box as he fell.  I stepped up onto that boot-box and then came down onto that fellow with both feet with sufficient force to break three ribs from his backbone.  Then I seized the whip and lit into him.  Good old Jose&acute; Mascarel, then mayor of Los Angeles, who was himself a giant, caught me from behind with a great grizzly grip and commanded me to keep the peace.  By this time the street was crowded and the sentiment turned in my favor so that the El Monte party was jostled and hooted when its members tried to take up the battle.  The downfallen blacksnaker tried to get to his feet and come after me as I walked toward my horse.  I turned on him and said with apparent ferocity: "Now, sir, you lie right down there again and don't attempt to get up until I am out of sight."  The bully flopped, jeered at by the crowd who could not extend their sympathies to such an ignominious champion, and I rode home.  It seems that a few minutes before encountering me the El Monte "patriot" had taken by surprise and blacksnaked another man of my build and general appearance whom he mistook for me; and, as I walked away it was amusing to hear this aggrieved victim of mistaken identity say, after he had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Now what was this all about?</P>
166.sgm:<P>Simply this: I was the first man to reappear in Los Angeles who had fought on the Union side in the war, and as I had gone from this town to do this nefarious thing, I was simply a red rag to the Secessionist bulls of the vicinity.  So in that neighboring hotbed, El Monte, Wiley McNear had been selected as their champion to "put me in my place."  To them the war was still going on.  McNear was six feet six inches high, weighed two hundred and forty pounds and claimed to be a quarter-breed Cherokee.  This claim may or may not have been true, for the ugliest fighting men of the Southwest, to make themselves seem very terrible, always claimed kinship to the Cherokees.  This fellow had long been a terror to the few Union sympathizers around the classic Monte.  Doctor Whistler and Little Potts were the particular objects of his persecutions.</P>
166.sgm:<P>When Wiley McNear got out of bed six or eight weeks after his misshap with me he found his popularity gone.  Whipped by an Abolitionist Yankee--that left him a fallen idol.  So great was the disgust of all Montedom that they turned on him cruelly; they put up a rascally job on him, a nefarious, shameless job.  They accused him of an infamous crime of which, in my judgment, he was innocent; got him convicted and sent to San Quentin for fourteen years.  The poor fellow died there, all because he did not know how to properly "size up" a Yankee.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I got into at least forty other fights after my affair with Wiley McNear, all over the same subject.  The Civil War continued to rage here, largely around my person.  I was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Not long after my fight with the Monte badman I was passing along Main Street in front of the Downey Block.<ANCHOR ID="n8-5">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-5">An early landmark built by Gov. John G. Downey at Main and Temple streets, present site of Federal Building.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>I pretended not to hear but went straight over to Billy Workman's saddlery store and got a big, loaded rawhide whip and went out to lay for "Stock."</P>
166.sgm:<P>I didn't have long to wait.  Los Angeles in those days, 1866-67, was a very sleepy old town.  Along about noon time you could ride your horse from Temple Block down Main to the last building, usually, without seeing a person.  But to-day I rode past "Stock" as he sauntered by the Courthouse.  I continued until I was in front of Rowan's place, where the Natick House<ANCHOR ID="n8-6">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-6">Still operated as a hotel at Main and First streets.  Long a well-known gathering place for old prospectors in from the desert.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"I didn't see a thing, Major," he answered and turned away.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I then went to O. H. Allen, Justice of the Peace, told him what I had done and was fined $5.  Judge Allen was a strong Secessionist but an honorable, noble gentleman.  He was a member of that great Allen family of Kentucky.  I then had a heart to heart talk with the Judge--told him how these fellows were trying to get rid of me and how I proposed to stop it.  I told him that I proposed to whip every one of them with a loaded rawhide until they stopped even looking cross-eyed at me.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Now, Judge," I said, "will you let me off with $5 for each future affair of this kind?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Yes," he answered, "if you don't use anything worse than a whip."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Before I was through I had paid in a large sum in five dollar fines to Judge Allen, but had won an absolute and perfect peace.  Somehow I always managed to "get there first" with my enemies, before they could draw on me, and after their chastisements, which always called down on them the ridicule of the onlookers no matter where their sympathy originally lay, they seemed too humiliated to follow the matter up with a gun.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Jenkins, the other townsman who actually reached the battlefields as a Union soldier, returned from his long imprisonment in Andersonville in the midst of all this guerrilla warfare.  This he did in spite of a warning his brother sent him that he would be hanged if he reappeared.  But after getting here he went over to San Clemente Island where he stayed until the local Grim Visage had smoothed out somewhat.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The year 1866 went out and '67 dragged itself through.  Union war veterans from the East and other parts of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Georgia Herrick Bell.  A Massachusetts girl whom Major Bell married in the East during the Civil War and brought across the plains to California.  <HI REND="italics">From a daguerreotype</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Famous winery of Jean Louis Vignes built in 1831.  It stood on Aliso Street, Los Angeles.  From here in 1854 was made the first commercial shipment of California wines to New York by the Sainsevain Brothers, nephews of the original proprietor.  <HI REND="italics">From an old lithograph</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>With the aid of the Spanish-speaking population the Republicans elected Billy Warren city marshal.  Billy Warren wanted one more policeman to add to the force, then numbering six.  He came to me about it and I named Jack Rhodes, who had been a gallant member of the Second Illinois Cavalry, and with whom I had served.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Did this produce a sensation?  You can imagine!  Joe Dye, a noted man-killer, was a member of the police force, and he began to brow-beat and insult Warren because of this appointment, and two years later the feud thus engendered ended in Dye killing Warren.  Shortly after killing the marshal Dye killed a couple of other men, and then fell out with his foster son, who barricaded himself in a window on the south side of Commercial Street and sat there with a double-barreled shotgun loaded with buckshot until Joe came along and then riddled him.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Having won such distinction in the Jack Rhodes appointment our Grand Army post went after other game.  There was a deputy water overseer to be appointed and we petitioned the Council to name Jenkins, the soldier who had returned from Andersonville.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It happened that Don Fe&acute;lix Gallardo, one of the natives who had associated himself with the Southern party, was sent to the penitentiary for horse stealing about the time Jenkins went East with the California Hundred to fight for the flag of the United States.  The Secessionists nominated this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>There was a printer here named Creighton who published a little weekly paper and I went to him to see if he wouldn't haul the Council over the coals for its disloyal partizanship.  Creighton said: "Major, I'm afraid to do it.  Some of those fellows might catch me and beat me to death."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Well," said I to Creighton, "just let me edit your paper for a few weeks."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"All right," said he; and if I didn't give that Council hot shot, grape and cannister, shell and shrapnel for the next few issues!  Some of them live here yet, and if they should be charged now with preferring a convict to an honorable Union soldier for a place of preferment and profit, they would deny it flatly, for they have been taught better.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Hard times fell upon the southern counties of California about '58 and continued for fully ten years, during which we had one year of smallpox and two years of absolute drought.  The region became terribly poor and very much demoralized.  The bad population that had drifted down from the mines lived a lazy, gambling, vagabond life; in fact, conditions deteriorated until absolute barbarism ruled.  It was thus I found it when I returned to Los Angeles in 1866.</P>
166.sgm:<P>After looking the situation over I was inclined to weep tears of regret over having decided to return to a country now so forlorn.  California had been my home since I was nineteen and my memories of Los Angeles were glowing.  But now, returned with the serious responsibility of a family and a living to make, I found it the most God-forsaken country I had ever seen.  The revolution-smitten towns of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>I startled the whole countryside by buying farm land at twenty dollars an acre.  I secured a place for a home at Figueroa and Pico streets and began to build a house.  Jean Louis Vignes, an early French settler, came over to see me, excited over the fact that somebody was actually buying land, and offered me his adjoining thirteen acre tract for three hundred dollars.  It later became the three city blocks bounded on the north by Twelfth Street, on the east by Grand Avenue, on the south by Pico Street and on the west by Figueroa Street.  I promised him I would think it over, and went on building my home.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In the meantime a man named Jesu&acute;s L. Cruz, a native who got real estate ambitions from hearing that things were looking up, purchased the Vignes thirteen acres for two hundred and fifty dollars, to be paid in installments of twenty dollars a month.  Don Jesu&acute;s then held a position with the city government which yielded him a salary of thirty-five dollars a month, leaving him fifteen dollars a month for the support of his numerous family when his land installments were paid.  This, however, was considered quite a liberal income at the time.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The former Mexican governor, Don Pi&acute;o Pico, also got wind of me as a man that had money, and he came over to borrow three hundred dollars.  All of this old grandee's hundreds of thousands of acres of land were mortgaged and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:about to slip from him except the one hundred acres of his home place called El Ranchito.<ANCHOR ID="n8-4b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-4b">The old Pi&acute;o Pico country home, El Ranchito, has been saved from total ruin by the efforts of the club women of Whittier, the community which now includes this property in its city limits.  The two-story adobe has been somewhat restored and is open to the public on certain days.  It lies on the right hand side of Whittier Boulevard, just after crossing the Ri&acute;o San Gabrie&acute;l as one drives southward on the main highway to San Diego.  Pi&acute;o Pico was born at Mission San Gabrie&acute;l, May 5, 1801.  His father was Jose&acute; Mari&acute;a Pico, corporal of the guard at the mission.  The ex-governor died in Los Angeles Sept. 11, 1894, at the age of ninety-three.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>In 1856 we had in Los Angeles a talented Scotch journalist named Brodie and Pi&acute;o Pico, a friend of his, gave him this piece of land.  Just made him a present of it as a friendly gesture between comrades.  About the time of my return from the East Mr. Brodie, who had returned to Scotland, hearing of the financial distress of his old friend the ex-governor, sent the latter a deed reconveying the land to him.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Now," said Don Pi&acute;o to me, dismounting at my new door-step, "for three hundred dollars I will convey to you this hundred acres, El Ranchito, or I will mortgage it to you."  To such a point as this were the old land barons reduced!</P>
166.sgm:<P>It is only proper to add that the little boom I started by my modest investments in '66 grew so rapidly that in four or five years Don Pi&acute;o was enabled to sell enough land to save him from the loss of much of the rest and he became fairly rich again before his death.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In March '69 I paid $3,600 for a thirty-five acre piece adjoining the vineyard land I had purchased for twenty dollars an acre in '66.  This land I cut up into lots and blocks and made about $8,000 out of it in a few weeks.  On the city maps this is called "Bell's Addition," and was the first subdivision of land ever made in Los Angeles.  It is the parent tract of all our real estate booms.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 9</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Feliz Curse</HI>
166.sgm:<P>ANTONIO FELIZ was a rich old don who owned eight thousand acres of valuable ranch and farm land adjoining the city of Los Angeles on the northwest.<ANCHOR ID="n9-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1a">Rancho de los Feliz, now comprising Griffith Park and eastern Hollywood.  Los Feliz may mean "the Felizes" or "the Feliz family," as we would say, or may be translated "the happy ones," but should be spelled, in the plural, <HI REND="italics">felices</HI>
166.sgm:.  The family name was originally Fe&acute;lix, the first grantee of the rancho being Jose&acute; Vicente Fe&acute;lix, a soldier with the Anza expedition of 1775-6 that brought colonists overland from Sonora for the founding of San Francisco.  In 1787 this Corporal Fe&acute;lix was made <HI REND="italics">comisionado</HI>
166.sgm: or direct representative of the Spanish governor, Pedro Fages, in the newly founded Los Angeles, and the grant of Rancho Fe&acute;lix was accorded him possibly as early as 1802.  (See Eldredge's <HI REND="italics">Beginnings of San Francisco</HI>
166.sgm:, note on page 302, Vol. 1.  Also Bancroft's <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
166.sgm:, page 461, Vol. 1, and same, page 352, Vol. 2, showing early map of Los Angeles district.  Also Richman's <HI REND="italics">California Under Spain and Mexico</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Besides all these agricultural riches Don Antonio Feliz had money in good hard silver and gold coin.  When he died in 1863 he, unlike most of his compatriots of the period, owed only one man in the wide world and that man was Jew Solomon to whom he had somehow become indebted in the sum of sixteen dollars.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In the year named the smallpox raged and the master of all the Feliz acres fell sick of it.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At 1 P.M., so it was reported, he was speechless.  At 3 o'clock, it was further reported, one of our then well-known citizens, Don Antonio Coronel,<ANCHOR ID="n9-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: came to the Feliz rancho, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-2">Helen Hunt Jackson visited with the Coronel family in the fine old adobe home at Seventh and Alameda streets, Los Angeles, while gathering material for her novel, "Ramona," and is said to have written much of the book in this house.  Don Antonio Franco Coronel was long a prominent citizen of the city both before and after American occupation.  He was one of the early mayors of Los Angeles after admission of California to statehood and was the first assessor of Los Angeles County.  He was the author of the manuscript concerning the early events and customs of his province, "Cosas de California," quoted by the historian Hubert Howe Bancroft and now a part of the celebrated Bancroft Library of the University of California.  The valuable Coronel Collection of early-day relics in the History Room of the Los Angeles County Museum is well known.  Don Antonio's father, Don Ygna&acute;cio, an educated man who came to California from Mexico City, taught the only school in Los Angeles from 1838 to 1844, in his home on Los Angeles Street near the present Arcadia Street.  (See C. D. Willard's "History of Los Angeles.")</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>It is said that Don Inocente did read the will to the stricken ranchero and that the latter assented to all its provisions by affirmative nods of the head; but it was also further stated by those "in the know" that the dying don had been propped up in bed with a stick fastened to the back of his head wherewith he was made to nod correctly.  This, however, would seem open to reasonable doubt as the good man had smallpox and no one would have wanted to handle his person under such circumstances.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Be that as it may, the filing of his last will and testament disclosed that he had bequeathed to his godson, Juan Sa&acute;nchez, twelve gentle mares with the pinto stallion, and a colt to each mare.  The household furniture, movables and bed-clothes were to be divided equally between "my sister, Soledad Feliz, and my sister-in-law, Juana Valenzuela."  Then followed the disposition of the grand estate--the real riches--as follows: "All the rest of my goods and property I order and direct to be administered, governed and directed by my friend Don Antonio Coronel; that when he shall deem convenient and that the price shall appear to him good he shall sell all my said property and employ the proceeds in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Suffrages of my soul" as interpreted by the learned court that passed upon the validity of the will meant that the executor might employ the proceeds of this great estate in such good works as to him might seem best for the benefit of the soul of the dear departed.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Like his illustrious predecessor, Don Quixote de la Mancha, Don Antonio Feliz had been a bachelor and his household had consisted of a housekeeper (his own sister) and a niece, Petranilla.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It will be seen that in the last will and testament a sop had been thrown to the sister-housekeeper but nothing at all to Petranilla.  The old retainers and servants, too, had been utterly ignored.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Now this Petranilla had been very close in the affections of the deceased; indeed, she had been his favorite relative, almost like a daughter.  When she had been persuaded to stay with friends of the family in the Pueblo while the mansion was under the terrible influence of contagion she had gone weeping bitterly, her only solace the thought of returning eventually to the old home which she felt sure was to be her very own should her protector die.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But what did Don&tilde;a Petranilla find when, after a decent interval of beguiling her grief, she approached the old homestead again?  She found a new owner in full occupancy with a new set of furnishings in the house and he himself engaged in disposing of horses, cattle and crops for cash.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The terms of the will had not been understood by the young niece; but now suddenly to her shocked brain came the realization that she had been denied any part in the inheritance of a princely domain.  Soledad Feliz apparently submitted philosophically to the sad situation; but not Don&tilde;a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:Petranilla.  She was a girl only seventeen, a fairy-like creature, tall, slim, graceful, beautiful and educated; but in her slight frame burned a fiery spirit.  Her dark deep eyes blazed, she stiffened, drew a deep breath, turned on her heel and walked out to the <HI REND="italics">corredor</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The new master of the house, uneasy, approached the girl and with Mexican suavity sought to explain the terms of the will.  Struggling for self-control Petranilla turned her burning gaze upon him and gave tongue to wrath.  "Sen&tilde;or, at the expense of the Feliz family you have become a rich man.  Now you turn us from the house, the house that has sheltered me from the day I was born.  The judge has approved my uncle's will, you say.  I say my uncle's wishes have been ignored and that a corrupt judge has confirmed the infamy!  Now all these scenes of my childhood, these springs, these brooks, these green meadows, these parks of lordly oaks--"</P>
166.sgm:<P>The man tried to interrupt her, to offer explanations, but the girl drew herself up and menacing him with a long, slim forefinger she seemed suddenly imbued with supernatural fervor as she denounced him and all his works in these words:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Sen&tilde;or, do not dare to speak until I have finished!  This is what I hurl upon your head: Your falsity shall be your ruin!  The substance of the Feliz family shall be your curse!  The lawyer that assisted you in your infamy, and the judge, shall fall beneath the same curse!  The one shall die an untimely death, the other in blood and violence!  You, sen&tilde;or, shall know misery in your age and though you die rich your substance shall go to vile persons!  A blight shall fall upon the face of this terrestrial paradise, the cattle shall no longer fatten but sicken on its pastures, the fields shall not longer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Here the inspired Petranilla swung round and stepped to the end of the veranda until she could see the sun sinking in the west beyond the Tejungas.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"See!" she cried with a far-flung gesture.  "Behold!  Cast your glance toward the dark entrance of the great Can&tilde;on of the Tejunga, and what do you see?  Ha! ha! a myriad demons floating in air like so many vultures!  They ride the storm clouds, and ay! they are lashing the clouds as the vaqueros lash the cattle to bring them together!  Now the air darkens, the thunder rolls, the lightning flashes, the rain falls--ha! ha! the rain falls in torrents!  Do you hear the roar of the descending flood?  Bowlders grind and crash, the demons ride the crest of the storm, they lash it into fury, it is coming--coming--coming!  Ay, see!  It has struck our willow dale, my old playground--it crumbles away into the great seething torrent!  Now the royal oak is gone!  See what the lightning flashes reveal at the base of the mountains--they reveal the oaks withering in the tongues of flame--their bright green leaves are scorched to cinders--because they were above the reach of the waters it is the fire from the clouds that has destroyed them.  Woe, woe, woe to you and yours, sen&tilde;or!  The meadows are gone, only the hills remain, the mere bones of the rancho, and no man shall ever enjoy peace or profit from what is left of this once beautiful spot!  Misfortune, crime and death shall follow those who covet these remains!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>The frail maiden had reached a high degree of emotion, her cheek was flushed, her eyes seemed to emit flames, her arms were outstretched as though to welcome the storm king.  Suddenly in a piercing, agonized tone she cried out, "Woe, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The man and the girl's aunt bore the limp little body into the house and laid it on a couch.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Ay, woe, woe in very truth, for she is lifeless!" sobbed Soledad Feliz.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"She is merely distracted," declared the man.  "She got too excited over what couldn't be helped.  Bah, the girl is loca, call a priest."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The priest arrived, the maiden partially revived and the good padre told her in soothing tones that she had suffered a delusion, that the devil was tempting her to evil thoughts, that the sun had set in glorious serenity and there was no sign of storm.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Here Petranilla raised herself on her elbows and stared out at the towering Tejungas, her face a mirror once more of all the cataclysm she sought to evoke from their dark can&tilde;ons.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Fools, I can see what you cannot see," she said in a low, firm voice and fell back on the couch.  "Father, give me absolution for I am dying," she gasped.  The padre bent over her, chanting as her young spirit winged its flight to a paradise safe above the storms.</P>
166.sgm:<P>For reasons best known to himself Don Antonio Coronel conveyed the entire property to his lawyer.  Finally, after the rights to a group of springs had been passed to the Los Angeles City Water Company for a consideration of eight thousand dollars, the ranch was sold to a rich and elegant American family.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Leon Baldwin was the purchaser.  He improved the ranch regardless of expense, stocked it with imported breeds of cattle, established a model dairy, fenced and cross-fenced the hitherto open land, remodeled the old Feliz house until <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The Baldwin family settled down to enjoy rural pleasure and profit on a grand scale.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But everything went wrong.  The cattle sickened and died in the fields.  The dairy business was a disastrous failure.  Fire destroyed the ripening grain and a myriad grass-hoppers devoured the green crops.  The vineyard was stricken with a strange blight and perished.  Baldwin was forced to put a mortgage on the property, and finally the ranch went for the mortgage.  In a few years the family had moved away from the accursed place.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Then the Prince of Wales succeeded to the property.  Not really the Prince of Wales, though at the time many of our credulous citizenry actually believed this personage to be 'Is Royal 'Ighness.  He was really a Welch nobleman by the name of Col. Griffith J. Griffith,<ANCHOR ID="n9-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1b">For years a prominent figure in Los Angeles.  His death occurred July 6, 1919.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>This Welch prince, or whatever he thought himself to be, bought the Feliz rancho.  Soon bad luck overtook him.  In March, 1884, great storm clouds gathered in the dark <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Weird stories were told by the Mexican retainers on the ranch of what they saw the night of the great <HI REND="italics">crescenta</HI>
166.sgm:.  One old man declared that the ghost of Antonio Feliz, followed by hosts of demons, was plainly seen riding the waves, lashing them to fury and directing the torrents against the dissolving margins of the land.  The ghost reappeared, the old man testified, and he was borne out by the testimony of others, after the water had subsided and danced <HI REND="italics">El Jarabe</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Woodchoppers were hired from town to convert the blasted oaks into revenue for the unlucky ranch owner, but after one night on the place they would always desert, bringing back with them this one unvarying tale: "Those lands are haunted.  A spirit declaring itself to be Antonio Feliz stalks up and down the river and sometimes stands on a projecting crag of the hills denouncing with wild gesticulations all before and behind him, to right and to left of him.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Finally the Baron induced some newcomer to rent a corner of the ranch where least damage had been wrought, for the establishment of an ostrich farm.  All was well with the birds during the daytime, but reports from out there were that when night fell there was the devil to pay.  Stricken with inexplicable panic the ostriches would break their folds and stampede wildly, and the keepers, becoming superstitious, left their jobs.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Baron was in a terrible quandary.  I can imagine the decision for the eventual disposition of the accursed land being arrived at something after this fashion in a consultation between the owner and his business secretary:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"What, oh, what can I do with the terrible property?" groans the Baron.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"You can't sell it," muses the secretary.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"No."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"You won't live on it."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I wouldn't spend a night on it for a million."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"You have to pay taxes on it right along."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Horrors, yes, taxes--taxes."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I'll tell you what I would do," announces the secretary, coming to life.  "I'd give the bedeviled place away."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Who in hell would take it--a place that is all taxes, no income and stocked with demons?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Donate it to the City of Los Angeles!" cries the secretary, an inspired look in his eyes.  "Give it to the city as a park and the municipal council will rise up and call you blessed.  With resolutions and what-not they will immortalize you!  You can never be President of these United States but you might be ambassador to the Court of St.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The Baron grasps his secretary's hand and cries: "Old fellow, you are indeed a bird of happy omen!  Prepare the deed at once, present it to the City of Los Angeles on a silver platter with a gold embossed announcement to each councilman personally.  Ambassador to the Court of St. James!  Oh, you have raised me from the slough of despond to the pinnacle of happy anticipation!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>The deed was tendered, the offer was welcomed and the council appointed a time to accompany the Baron and his secretary to the ranch, the owner to deliver and the councilmen to accept <HI REND="italics">seizin of the fee</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The dignitaries tarried over the liquids and perhaps dallied with the solids until lo! the night crept upon them unawares.  The Baron and his "bird" had crept away in the early gloaming, 'tis said, but the rest lingered on, heedless not only of the arrival of night but of the approach of that hour of night when ghosts do walk abroad.</P>
166.sgm:<P>With the actual striking of that hour there was the devil to pay and, according to reliable reports, the whole scene may be re-created by the brief statement that the stampede of the ostriches was tame in comparison to the stampede of the city fathers.  When they reached home in the dawning they were already men turned old and gray.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>What had wrought this terrible change in these debonair fellows overnight?</P>
166.sgm:<P>In time some of them told, and what they told tradition has retained as follows:</P>
166.sgm:<P>At midnight there appeared among the celebrants in the Feliz <HI REND="italics">sala</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Sen&tilde;ores, I am Antonio Feliz, come to invite you to dine with me in hell.  In your great honor I have brought an escort of sub-demons."</P>
166.sgm:<P>An awful din at once broke loose--lights went out, gongs and cymbals clashed and with demoniac screechings the demons came dancing into the hall.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At this moment a wild rush was made for the exits by the guests from the city, so there is no available record of the further pranks that night in the ancient halls of Feliz.</P>
166.sgm:<P>From the time of the curse pronounced by Antonio Feliz's niece bad luck came to the Coronel family in general, though it strangely seemed to spare Antonio Coronel himself.  Disastrous litigation fell on some and death came in a violent manner to others.  There were family quarrels and lawsuits.  Those who did not die became impoverished.  By various means--wills, deeds and agreements--all of the wealth of the various sections of this rich family became vested in Don Antonio Coronel.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>How strange that he alone should prosper when the rest of the family should suffer and die.</P>
166.sgm:<P>However the mills of the gods grind slowly but they grind exceeding small.</P>
166.sgm:<P>About the time of Antonio Feliz's death Antonio Coronel had taken unto himself a young American girl as wife, though he was then far beyond the meridian of life.  At the age of eighty he died childless, bequeathing nothing to his only brother, who was poverty-stricken, nothing to his daughter by a former marriage nor to a nephew whose inheritance he had earlier absorbed, and so leaving his American widow very rich in money, lands and a sumptuous home.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The widow not long afterward married a young adventurer.  Attempting to obtain possession of the concentrated wealth of the Coronels the husband got into difficulties with his wife.  They separated and began to fight each other in the courts with the result that the fortune became the spoil of contending lawyers that came swarming to the legal feast.</P>
166.sgm:<P>What were the words of little Don&tilde;a Petranilla that day on the veranda of the Feliz manor?  " <HI REND="italics">And you, sen&tilde;or, though you die rich, your substance shall go to vile persons</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The reader may draw his own conclusions, make what he will, out of this chain of circumstances; but all will doubtless agree that it's a hard reflection on lawyers!</P>
166.sgm:<P>In concluding this narrative I must add that the lawyer chum of Coronel's who deeded over the water rights to the Feliz springs to the City of Los Angeles celebrated so violently after receiving his portion of the $8,000 that a citizen whom he assaulted shot him dead in self-defense.  The judge that probated the Feliz will came to an untimely end and is forgotten except for his licentious judicial ways.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Leon Baldwin, the first American owner of the property, was eventually murdered by Mexican bandits.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>(NOTE: At the end of this chapter in his manuscript Major Bell added this observation in longhand: "All of the above narrative was written years ago at the time Baron Griffith gave the three thousand acre rock pile, all that was <illus entity="a166-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Reproduction of a page from Major Bell's manuscript, with notes in his handwriting</P>
166.sgm:<P>"In this year 1903 a sequel ensued which conclusively shows that the curse of Los Feliz is still vindictively in pursuit of all that have profited by the `ruin of Los Feliz.'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"It makes another story."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The author undoubtedly refers to the marital tragedy at the Arcadia Hotel, Santa Monica, involving Colonel and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:Mrs. Griffith.  A singular chain of events certainly, upon which hangs the tradition of the Feliz Curse.  It is rendered still more weird by the fact that the translation of <HI REND="italics">feliz</HI>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Jose&acute; Sepu&acute;lveda</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 10</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tragic Fate of Mexican Joe</HI>
166.sgm:<P>ON returning from the war the first friend I met was Uncle Bill Rubottom.  We drove into Spadra at nightfall and found Bill, his son Jim and his ten-year-old grandson in an improvised camp hard at work rearing the first permanent home in this settlement.  The place is situated two or more miles from Pomona, toward Los Angeles, on the Southern Pacific Railroad.  There was then, of course, no railroad.  Uncle Bill founded Spadra, naming it for his old home on the Arkansas River.  It is a Cherokee word signifying a bluff or bank, and a well-known bluff on the Arkansas bears the same name.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Uncle Bill was delighted to see me.  I was nineteen years old when I first met him; now I was thirty-five, but Uncle Bill treated me as if I were still a boy.  With a warm embrace he said, "God bless you, my boy, what a lot we're going to have to talk about."  After supper, when the rest of the camp was in dreamland, we drank strong coffee and talked for hours--or rather he talked and I listened.</P>
166.sgm:<P>He got started on the subject of the Juan Flores uprising in '58, the murder of Sheriff Barton and posse and the blood and slaughter that followed.  I had occasion to interrupt him with an inquiry concerning his former prote&acute;ge&acute;, Mexican Joe.  Uncle Bill lapsed into silence and his jaw set.  Then he shoved back his stool and paced the room, after which he sat down again, folded his arms on the table and buried his face in them.  He actually sobbed.  I looked at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"It is eight years now since brave, honest Joe left me and I have tried in vain to forget the wicked, hellish manner of his taking off.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"It has been estimated that one hundred and fifty-eight persons were killed to avenge the death of Sheriff Barton and his posse, and not one of his murderers was of this number.  No, not one!  They escaped and innocent men were slaughtered.  It makes my blood run cold to think of it.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"During all this Barton excitement I remained quietly at home.  I then lived at El Monte.  I had cribs full of corn and hearing that Don Benito Wilson<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">Benjamin Davis Wilson, a native of Tennessee, widely and affectionately known as Don Benito among the Californians, came to Los Angeles in 1841 via Taos and Santa Fe&acute;, New Mexico, where he had engaged in trading.  He took for his first wife Ramona Yorba, daughter of one of the most prominent old land-holding families of colonial California.  Mount Wilson, back of Pasadena, famous now as the site of the astronomical observatory of the Carnegie Institution and home of the largest telescope in the world, was named for him.  He built the first trail up the mountain for the purpose of cutting timber suitable to make casks for the wines from his famous Lake Vineyard property, located in the district of Pasadena now known as Oak Knoll and in the adjoining little municipality of San Marino where is located the great Henry E. Huntington Library and Art Gallery.  The Wilson property, overlooking the old grist mill built by the padres of Mission San Gabrie&acute;l in 1812 and now remodeled into a residence, has long remained intact in the center of intensive real estate development, but announcement has just been made in the public press (November, 1929) that it is at last to be subdivided and placed on the market.  Of late years it has been known as the Patton Place, the property having passed to Mrs. George S. Patton, a daughter of Don Benito Wilson, and from her to her son and daughter, Captain George S. Patton, Jr., U.S.A., and Anne Patton.  Don Benito Wilson was the first United States Indian Agent for Southern California and the first clerk of Los Angeles County.  He also served as State Senator.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>"Joe should have returned by noon, but as the sun went down he was still absent.  About dark a fellow rode past our house and called out that they had killed one of Barton's murderers over at the Mission.  `Yes,' said he, `there's no mistake about it for he had Barton's saddle, bridle and spurs.'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"My wife observed: `Is it possible, William, that they could have killed Joe?'  I rejected the idea and yet uneasiness seized me.  In a few minutes I was mounted and riding the Mission road.  Arriving at San Gabrie&acute;l I found quite a crowd around the Mission doggery.  A blear-eyed gambler, Bill Bayley by name, came over to me and said, `Well, we got him!'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"`Got who?'  I demanded.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"`One of them greasers that killed Barton and the boys.'</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"`Where is he?'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The scoundrel showed me to a dirty dark room in a tumble-down adobe, lighted a candle and exhibited a headless, bloody corpse on the floor.  So horribly was the body mutilated with knives that it was unrecognizable, nor could identity be established by clothes for most of them were gone.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"`Where's the head?' I demanded.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"`Oh, it's gone to Los Angeles.  Doctor Osborne, Barton's friend, did all the cutting--kept on cutting till Bill Jenkins made him quit.'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"`Where are this man's saddle, bridle and spurs?' I asked.  These things were hunted up and shown to me.  They were his own, the same that Joe had left my house with in the morning.  They'd never been Barton's, though they may have resembled his a little.  For a moment I felt paralyzed, the world seemed to have slid from under my feet, I gasped for breath.  There was a great roaring in my head.  The next thing I knew I was in the bar-room draining a pitcher of water, for my emotions seemed to be burning me up.  My impulse was to turn on the roomful, find out who had participated in this murder and shoot them down like dogs.  But fortunately I was unarmed.  I had left home so hurriedly, so upset by my fears for Joe that I had forgotten both my revolver and knife.  I've thanked God ever since that this was so because I've always been a law-abiding man.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"How I got home I don't know but I woke up in bed the next morning with a raging fever.  Some friends of mine got together, found the doctor who was accused of cutting Joe's head off, recovered the head and the body and gave our friend Mexican Joe a Christian burial."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"What became of this doctor?"  I asked.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The hand of retribution hit him hard," replied Uncle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Uncle Bill abruptly changed the subject.  "You will be disappointed in this glorious country.  It's not what it was.  The Californians have all gone broke and the Shylocks have everything tied up.  We are overrun by a horde of low-down blacklegs, squawmen and such cattle.  They feast off the country but do no work.  They vote taxes upon us, yet pay none themselves, for the big bugs among them fill the offices.  Taxes and interest are eating the country up."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Here my informant switched to the subject of the renowned Register of the U.S. Land Office in Los Angeles, whose personal encounters have been referred to in a previous chapter.  It will be remembered that I there inferred that it was none other than Uncle Bill Rubottom who had finally put a quietus on the giant.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"You know the Register married one of my daughters," resumed Uncle Bill.  "He was a good man in some respects, but an over-bearing bully.  Unlike most bullies, though, he was brave.  He was the bravest man I ever faced and he came within an ace of getting me.  He wasn't so bad but he didn't know how to treat a woman.  My daughter was high-spirited and she left him and claimed my protection for herself and child.  The day after she left him the Register sent word to my house that I might keep the wife but that on the morrow he was coming to get the boy.  He warned me that he would arrive at a certain hour, fully armed.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"At the appointed time I was sitting on my front porch with a double-barreled shotgun across my knees.  The Register arrived promptly, hitched his horse to the fence and started for the gate about twenty feet from where I sat.  `Enter that gate at the peril of your life,' I called out.  He didn't hesitate one instant but walked right in, revolver <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"That was my daddy, wasn't it?" asked a small voice, and the head of a blue-eyed boy peered from one of the bunks in the room in which we talking.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I thought you were sound asleep or I wouldn't have talked about it, boy," replied Uncle Bill, regretfully, going over and caressing the child.  "But, remember, boy, I'm your father now."  The youngster cuddled down to sleep again contentedly and the man returned to his seat shaking his head and passing his rough hand over his hairy face as if to wipe off the evidences of emotion that showed there.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Yes, I killed the boy's father," he mused, "but I'm going to be more to him than his father ever could have been.  I'm going to give the best of my life to him."</P>
166.sgm:<P>There was silence for a while, then Uncle Bill, realizing that I was consulting my watch, shook himself together and sought to entertain me longer.  "By the way," he said, right cheerfully, "there's been a lot of killing here while you were away.  A rich ranchero at Cucamonga was killed last year and his wife was accused of complicity in the murder.  Excitement ran high and blood flowed among the various factions.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I was keeping a roadside tavern over there then.  The suspected wife was still living in the Cucamonga home and there were a good many threats made against her so that the air was buzzing with things that might happen any time.  One afternoon Eli Smith dropped into my place; in a little while George Dyches came in, then another and another, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"I made up my mind that it wouldn't happen.  I'd seen enough of lynching in my time, and when it came to stringing up a woman without a trial, I wouldn't stand it in my neighborhood.  So I set to planning.  Lige and Jim were at the tavern with me.  I told Lige what was up and for him and Jim to arm and conceal themselves in a room adjoining the dining room and await orders.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I served the men at the long supper table myself, then when they all had their heads well down into their plates I returned, stood at the head of the table and said: `Now, gentlemen, don't make a move or I'll shoot.'  They all looked up with their mouths full of food and saw me standing there with a double-barreled shotgun at ready.  `I know what you're here for,' I continued, `and permit me to say that no man nor set of men can murder a woman while I'm around.  Ho!  Lige,' I called, `come on in.'  Lige entered and stood at the foot of the table with his shotgun at ready.  Then I called Jim in and ordered him to go round and disarm each rascal.  Those fellows were too astonished and ashamed to offer any assistance.  The victory was ours and we sent 'em away without their guns.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Afterward I sent out word that they could call at my place, one at a time, and get their weapons back.  They did and none of 'em held it against me, I guess.  After thinking it over they were glad they'd had their minds changed."</P>
166.sgm:<P>I was looking at my watch again.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"What time is it?" asked Uncle Bill, disappointedly.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Half-past-two," I answered.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Let's have another cup of coffee and I'll tell you how I got this land here from Chino Phillips.  You know he was a Jew shopkeeper in Los Angeles who went broke--hard to believe, isn't it, that a Jew trader let the <HI REND="italics">man&tilde;ana</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"But, Uncle Bill, how about a little rest?"  I interposed, and my host reluctantly let me go to bed while he refilled his coffee cup and mused over it alone.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Toma&acute;s Sa&acute;nchez</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 11</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">That Grand Californian, the Grizzly Bear</HI>
166.sgm:<P>THE grizzly bear is a lordly animal.  An ordinary-sized one will weigh from nine hundred to twelve hundred pounds, a large one a ton.  The grizzly is the king of beasts.  When, a few years ago, a Los Angeles County grizzly was sent to Monterrey, Mexico, to be pitted against the man-killing African lion "Parnell" the great Californian handled the African king as a cat would a rat.  He killed him so quickly that the big audience hardly knew how it was done.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The grizzlies stand on their hind legs and spar, fence, parry and strike like a skilled fencing master or prize-fighter.  This reminds me of Ramo&acute;n Carrillo, who overtook a huge grizzly in the Encino Valley, challenged him and fought him single-handed with a light sword.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This Ramo&acute;n was a desperado, a man who fought for the love of it and who was never defeated until finally riddled with American buckshot.  General Covarru&acute;bias with a party which included Ramo&acute;n Carrillo<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1">Both families still well known in Southern California.  The old Covarru&acute;bias house in Santa Ba&acute;rbara is one of the choice relics of Spanish days pointed out in that charming old community which retains such an intelligent regard for its romantic past.  Leo Carrillo, the well-known actor, comes from the old Carrillo line so admired by Major Bell.  Santa Catalina Island was granted by the Mexican administration to Jose&acute; Mari&acute;a Covarru&acute;bias in 1846, just a few days before the American seizure of Monterey.  This <HI REND="italics">documento</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Stand back, please, sen&tilde;ores," requested Carrillo, dismounting and drawing his sword.  "Allow me to fight a personal duel with this grand old gladiator."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The boy is crazy," the rest muttered, but nevertheless they formed a wide circle and leaned forward breathlessly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Ramo&acute;n advanced like a dancing master flourishing a rapier-like blade which he always carried.  Bruin stood on the defensive, staring with angry astonishment.  Deftly and with a smile and a banter always on his lips the young Californian, with all the skill and grace of a trained bullfighter, danced around the grizzled giant and got in his stinging, maddening thrusts here and there.  The grizzly rushed him time and again with terrific roars, but the man waited only long enough to sting the huge menacing paws with the rapier point and then sidestepped to safety.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The excitement of the picturesque mounted audience grew almost beyond control, and the "vivas!" first for the caballero and then for the bear, drove the animal duelist almost frantic.  With utmost coolness and always laughing Ramo&acute;n Carrillo fenced with that grizzly for one hour.  When all concerned seemed to be tiring of the sport he stepped in and with a quick thrust to the heart laid the splendid brute low.</P>
166.sgm:<P>No doubt it will surprise the reader to be informed that the burro, the ordinary Mexican donkey, can give the grizzly a good fight.  I know of several fiestas where burros were put into a ring with a bear and fought to the death.  If the bear was a real grizzly he always won, so far as I know, but the burro would worry him desperately for a long time.  The bear would suffer terrific jolts on the jaw from the burro's heels, that would send him staggering back time and again.  When the grizzly would finally get hold of his lowly but far from humble antagonist the burro would bite and hang on to the death like a bulldog.  I must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>In the great fiestas of times past at the Missions and Presidios there was always a bull and bear fight for the entertainment of the crowd.  The last one on record that I know of took place at Pala, a branch or <HI REND="italics">asistencia</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The bear was an ugly grizzly that for years had roamed the pine-clad region of Palomar Mountain, rising six thousand feet above the little Mission.  Tied to a huge post in the center of the old adobe-walled quadrangle he stood almost as high as a horse, a picture of fury such as painter never conceived.  His hind feet were tethered with several turns of a strong rawhide reata, but were left about a yard apart to give full play.  To the center of this rawhide, between the two feet, was fastened another heavy reata, doubled and secured to a big loop made of doubled reatas thrown over the center post.  The services of a man on horseback with a long pole were constantly needed to keep the raging monster from chewing through the rawhide ropes.</P>
166.sgm:<P>By the time the bear had stormed around long enough to get well limbered up after being tied all night the signal was given, the horseman effected his disappearance and in dashed a bull through an open gate.  He was of the old long-horn breed but of great weight and power.  He had been roaming the hills all summer, living like a deer in the chaparral of the rough mountains and was as quick and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:wild as any deer.  He, too, like old bruin, had been captured with the noosed lazo in a sudden dash of horsemen on a little flat he had to cross to go to a spring at daylight and felt no more in love with mankind than did the bear.  As he dashed across the arena it looked as if the fight was going to be an unequal one, but the bear gave a glance that intimated that no one need waste sympathy on <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
166.sgm:<P>No creature is so ready for immediate business as is the bull turned loose in an amphitheater of human faces.  He seems to know they are there to see him fight and he wants them to get their money's worth.  So, as soon as the gate admits him, he goes for everything in sight with the dash of a cyclone.  Things that outside he would fly from or not notice he darts at as eagerly as a terrier for a rat the instant he sees them in the ring.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This bull came from the same mountains as the bear and they were old acquaintances, though the acquaintance had been cultivated on the run as the bull tore with thundering hoofs through the tough manzanita or went plunging down the steep hillside as the evening breeze wafted the strong scent of the bear to his keen nose.  But now, in the arena, he spent no time looking for a way of escape but at a pace that seemed impossible for even the great weight of the bear to resist he rushed across the ring directly at the enemy as if he had been looking for him all his life.</P>
166.sgm:<P>With wonderful quickness for so large an animal the bear rose on his hind legs and coolly waited until the long sharp horns were within a yard of his breast.  Then up went the great paws, one on each side of the bull's head, and the sharp points of the horns whirled up from horizontal to perpendicular, then almost to horizontal again as bull and bear went rolling over together.  In a twinkling the bear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>In rode four horsemen and threw reatas around the feet of the dead bull, while the grizzly did his ferocious best to get at them.  As they dragged the body of the vanquished victim out one gate, the runway to the bullpen was opened once more and a second bull, a big black one with tail up as if to switch the moon, charged into the arena.  On his head glistened horns so long and sharp that it seemed impossible for the bear ever to reach the head with his death-dealing paws before being impaled.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But this problem did not seem to worry the grizzly.  He had not been living on cattle for so many years without knowing a lot about their movements.  When this new antagonist came at him he dodged as easily as a trained human bullfighter, and as the bull shot past him down came one big paw on the bovine's neck with a whack that sounded all over the adobe corral.  A chorus of shouts went up from the rows of swarthy faces, with here and there a white face, as the victim, turning partly over, went down with a plunge that made one of his horns plow up the dirt, then break sharp off under the terrific pressure of his weight and momentum.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The bull was not done for; he tried to rise and bruin made a dash for him, but his tethers held him short of his goal.  In a second the bull got to his feet and wheeled around with one of those short twists that makes him so dangerous an antagonist.  But once he is wheeled around his course is generally straight ahead and a quick dodger can avoid him; however, he is lightning-like in his charge and something or somebody is likely to be overhauled in short order.  So it was this time and before the bear could recover from the confusion into which he had been thrown by being brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Few things in nature are tougher than the shoulder of a grizzly bear and a mere side swing without the full weight of a running bull behind it was insufficient to make even this sharp horn penetrate.  The bear staggered, but the horn glanced from the ponderous bone, leaving a long gash in the shaggy hide.  This only angered bruin the more.  He made a grab for the head of the bull but again was frustrated by the reatas which allowed him only a limited scope of action.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The bull returned to the charge as soon as he could turn himself around and aimed the long horn full at his enemy's breast.  But just as the horn seemed reaching its mark the grizzly grabbed the bull's head with both paws and twisted it half round, with the nose inward.  The nose he seized in his great white teeth and over both went in a swirl of dust while the crowd roared and cheered.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Now one could see exactly why cattle found killed by bears always have their necks broken.  Bears do not go through the slow process of strangling or bleeding their victims, but do business on scientific principles.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This time the grizzly rose more slowly than before, nevertheless he rose, while the bull lay still in death.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The owners of the bear now wanted to stop the show but from all sides rose a roar of " <HI REND="italics">Otro!  Otro!  Otro!  Otro!  toro!</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The owners protested that the bear was disabled and was too valuable to sacrifice needlessly; that a dead bull was worth as much as a live one, and more, but that the same arithmetic did not hold good for a bear.  The clamor of the crowd grew minute by minute, for the sight of blood <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Soon another bull shot toward the center of the arena.  Larger than the rest but thinner, more rangy, he opened negotiations with even more vigor, more speed.  With thundering thump of great hoofs, his head wagging from side to side, eyes flashing green fire, he drove full at the bear with all his force.  The grizzly was a trifle clumsy this time and as he rose to his hind feet the bull gave a twist of his head that upset the calculations of the bear.  Right into the base of the latter's neck went a long sharp horn, at the same time that the two powerful paws closed down on the bull's neck from above.  A distinct crack was heard.  The bull sank forward carrying the bear over backward with a heavy thump against the big post to which he was tied.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Again the horsemen rode in to drag out a dead bull.  But the grizzly now looked weary and pained.  Another pow-wow with his owners ensued while the crowd yelled more loudly than ever for another bull.  The owners protested that it was unfair, but the racket rose louder and louder for the audience knew that there was one bull left, the biggest and wildest of the lot.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The crowd won, but bruin was given a little more room in which to fight.  Vaqueros rode in and while two lassoed his forepaws and spread him out in front, the other two loosened his ropes behind so as to give him more play.  He now had about half the length of a reata.  Allowing him a breathing spell, which he spent trying to bite off the reatas, the gate of the bullpen was again thrown open.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Out dashed an old Red Rover of the hills and the way he went for the bear seemed to prove him another old acquaintance.  He seemed anxious to make up for the many times he had flown from the distant scent that had warned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The bear was still slower than before in getting to his hind feet and his right paw slipped as he grabbed the bull's head.  He failed to twist it over.  The horn struck him near the base of the neck and bull and bear went rolling over together.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Loud cheers for the bull rose as the bear, scrambling to his feet, showed blood coming from a hole in his neck almost beside the first wound.  Still louder roared the applause as the bull regained his feet.  Lashing his sides with his tail and bounding high in fury he wheeled and returned to the fray.  The bear rolled himself over like a ball and would have been on his feet again safely had not one foot caught in the reata which tied him to the post.  Unable to meet the bull's charge with both hind feet solid on the ground he fell forward against his antagonist and received one horn full in the breast, up to the hilt.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But a great grizzly keeps on fighting even after a thrust to the heart.  Again he struggled to his feet, the blood gushing from the new wound.  With stunning quickness in so large an animal the bull had withdrawn his horn, gathered himself together and returned to the charge.  The bear could not turn in time to meet him and with a heavy smash the horn struck him squarely in the shoulder forward of the protecting bone.  Those who have seen the longest horns driven full to the hilt through the shoulder of a horse--a common sight in the bullfights of Mexico--can understand why the bear rolled over backward to rise no more.</P>
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166.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 12</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Last Words of Ramo&acute;n Carrillo</HI>
166.sgm:<P>IT was a memory of Ramo&acute;n Carrillo that started this bear chat, I believe.  Ramo&acute;n was a dashing Hotspur, a member of that famous Carrillo family that had its stronghold in Santa Ba&acute;rbara.  It is hardly necessary to say that he was a handsome fellow because all of the Carrillos are of that type.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In 1865, in Los Angeles County, Ramo&acute;n got into trouble that landed him in a bloody grave.  He was accused of the murder of John Rains, whose wife was the owner of the Cucamonga Rancho.<ANCHOR ID="n12-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1a">John Rains married Mari&acute;a Merced Williams, daughter of Julian Isaac Williams and granddaughter of the celebrated land-owner, Don Antonio Mari&acute;a Lugo.  Williams came from Santa Fe&acute; in 1831, adopted Mexican nationality, married a daughter of Lugo and through his marriage came into possession of the Rancho Cucamonga and the Rancho Santa Ana del Chino, the latter a property of 22,000 acres granted to Lugo in 1841.  The main portion of the Lugo, afterwards the Williams adobe ranch house, is still intact and, with additions, is known as Los Serranos Club resort, near the town of Chino, Los Angeles County.  The Cucamonga country is famous for its vineyards of wine grapes and in the old days was distinguished by a huge old adobe winery, the remains of which are still visible from the highway.  A sister of Mrs. Rains, Francisca Williams, married Robert Carlisle, whose violent death Major Bell mentions.  Afterwards she married Dr. F. A. McDougall, mayor of Los Angeles in 1877-78.  The fine old ranch house of Isaac Williams, on the Santa Ana del Chino, was attacked in September, 1846, by a body of Californians and twenty-five Americans defending it were taken prisoner, among them Don Benito Wilson.  The place was completely sacked.  All prisoners were released after the signing of the Treaty of Cahuenga between Colonel Fre&acute;mont and General Andre&acute;s Pico following the second occupation of Los Angeles by the American forces.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Uncle Bill told me the manner of Ramo&acute;n's end.  Said he:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I was keeping the station at Cucamonga and Ramo&acute;n was a guest at the ranch house.  He was paying court to a fair lady in the vicinity and she used to drive out with him in the cool of the evening.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"One day there came to my station a man with a double-barreled shotgun, revolver and knife.  He said he had made an engagement to wait here for a party that was coming through from the upper country and go on into Arizona <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Ramo&acute;n had been called away from his courting for a spell but there came an afternoon when he returned and drove out with his lady love past the station as usual.  I noticed that a few minutes after they passed my guest picked up his shotgun, buckled on his revolver and knife and said, `Well, Uncle Bill, guess I'll go out and get a few more rabbits.'  I remarked to myself that this was the first time he had ever buckled on revolver and knife since he had arrived.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"In about an hour I heard two shots.  A few minutes later the team hitched to the buggy came tearing down the road with Ramo&acute;n's lady managing the reins.  I ran out and helped her to stop the horses.  Ramo&acute;n lay in the bottom of the buggy, all bloody and frothing at the mouth.  I'll tell you that little lady was as cool as a cucumber, she was game, and insisted that we carry him to her house.  I proposed sending to San Bernardino for a doctor, but Ramo&acute;n, overhearing me, shook himself together and in his commanding way forbade it, saying, `No, don't bother.  I am done for.'  I then proposed to send for a priest.  There came over his face a smile of scorn; it was that way he faced the approach of death, with bitter gayety.  Game--he was game!  `No priest for me, I want to go to Hell!' he said.  `I've fought everything I've met on this earth and was never vanquished in a fair fight.  I never did a cowardly act nor fought a man except face to face, but for all this I am murdered from behind!  I know why; it is because they accuse me of killing John Rains.  I am as innocent of that as you are.  If I had been the enemy of John Rains I would have challenged him face to face.'</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Ramo&acute;n Carrillo was dying," concluded Uncle Bill, "and I believed every word he said.  He was innocent, for a man who could talk like that in the presence of death could not be lying.  Later he roused himself again and said: `I'm going to die and I'm going to Hell.  There I'm going to meet the Devil and fight him, and may the best man win!'  These were the last words of Ramo&acute;n Carrillo."</P>
166.sgm:<P>A great family were these Carrillos.  Some of them were mighty men and the women were all beautiful to look upon.  The most noted of the men was General Jose&acute; Antonio.<ANCHOR ID="n12-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: He commanded the Californians at the battle of Los Cuerbos, commonly called the Battle of Domi&acute;nguez, when the American marines under Captain Mervine of the frigate <HI REND="italics">Savannah</HI>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-2">General Carrillo was a delegate to the first Constitutional Convention at Monterey in 1849, although in the early stages of the American invasion he had been bitterly anti-gringo.  For another account of the amusing incident concerning General Carrillo and the Mormon officer see <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles on the Eve of the Gold Rush</HI>
166.sgm:<P>General Carrillo was full of humor and boiling over with sarcasm.  He came very near getting into a duel with a captain in the Mormon Battalion in Los Angeles in 1847.  Don&tilde;a Luisa A&acute;vila was married to a Mexican officer, Lieut. Col. Manuel Ga&acute;rfias, who was a nephew of Porfi&acute;rio Di&acute;az, later ruler of Mexico for so many years.  Ga&acute;rfias had been a member of the famous Micheltorena Battalion which had been expelled by the revolting Californians.  He had resigned his commission in the army and returned to Los Angeles to marry the daughter of Don&tilde;a Concepcio&acute;n de Avila.  Don&tilde;a Concepcio&acute;n was owner of the San Pascual grant where Pasadena now stands and which later passed into the possession of Colonel Ga&acute;rfias.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>A great fiesta followed the nuptials and the party developed into an occasion of reconciliation between the American army officers and those of the late Californian army.  The generals were all there and the captains and lieutenants.  General Carrillo was there, grim and sarcastic.  He was far from being reconciled.  There was a certain Mormon captain there, too, who thought himself a great dancer.  Carrillo stared with pointed disapproval at his awkward performances and finally remarked to some dignitary of the American faction: "That officer of yours dances like a bear."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Mormon captain was informed of the remark and on the following day sent a challenge to General Carrillo to meet him in mortal combat.  The Californian at once accepted the challenge and appointed his seconds and excitement ran high on both sides.  General Kearny, the commander-in-chief of the American forces of occupation, decided there must be no bloodshed and offered his services as mediator.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In the course of these peace negotiations the whole crowd, principals and all, brought up at the hospitable home of Nathaniel Pryor.  The Pryor house was famous for good cheer; it was a fine house backed up by a fine vineyard that supplied a fine cellar with fine wines.  The vineyard was bounded on the east by Alameda Street and extended from Aliso Street south to Wolfskill's line.<ANCHOR ID="n12-3">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-3">The present Central Station, used by the trains of the Union Pacific and Southern Pacific railroads, is on the site of the old Wolfskill home.  William Wolfskill was the first to grow oranges in California on a successful commercial scale.  The Franciscan missionaries planted the first oranges in California, notably at San Gabrie&acute;l and San Buenaventura, but the fruit was used locally.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Going into conference again here, in the midst of these congenial surroundings, General Kearny, aided by Major Emory,<ANCHOR ID="n12-4">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: brought such diplomacy to bear on General Carrillo as to persuade him that he owed an apology to the Mormon.  But the friends of the Mormon stubbornly insisted that the apology must be in writing.  To the pleased surprise <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-4">Lieut. W. W. Emory, U.S. Topographical Engineers, was on the staff of Gen. Stephen W. Kearny on the march from Santa Fe&acute; to San Diego and Los Angeles and was the historian of the expedition.  He figured prominently in the Battle of San Pascual when the American forces suffered severe losses at the hands of the Californians under Gen. Andre&acute;s Pico.  Later, as major, he was a member of the U.S. Boundary Survey.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>General Carrillo's only stipulation was that he was to be given until the next day to write and deliver the apology, delivery to be made here at this same pleasant gathering place.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At the appointed time the principals, mediators, seconds and friends were present; indeed, the crowd was considerably larger than it had been the day before.  The Americans were on tip-toe to see what sort of an apology a haughty Californian ex-general and high dignitary would make to an American volunteer captain.</P>
166.sgm:<P>After the wine had circulated a translator was selected to read aloud the apology, which was as follows:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I am a native of California; I love my country and stick up for it, the bear is my countryman so I love the bear.  I now apologize to the bear for suggesting that the red-headed captain danced like a bear.  The injury is to the bear, because the captain could not dance half so well.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"JOSE ANTONIO CARRILLO."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Mormon captain was more wroth than ever and insisted on a fight then and there.  But the droll apology had struck everybody's funny-bone.  Both factions turned on the aggrieved redhead with so much ridicule that he was laughed off the place and the crisis was averted for good and all.</P>
166.sgm:<P>There was another Carrillo--we will call him the Judge.  The Judge was a highly educated gentleman, in fact he was educated in Boston.  A hide drogher carried him from Santa Ba&acute;rbara around the Horn to Boston to college when he was about twelve years old, and brought him home again <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The home coming was somewhat startling.  The young graduate presented himself at the parental mansion, a delightful old adobe in the town that was the seat of old Spanish aristocracy in California, dressed in high Boston style and feeling himself to be a very important Yankee-wise cosmopolitan.  The Sen&tilde;ora, his mother, was overjoyed to see her boy and after tears, laughter and caresses she sat him down in the <HI REND="italics">sala</HI>
166.sgm:<P>With amazement which grew to indignation the Sen&tilde;ora de Carrillo rebuked her son, but he continued to show off his superior education.  Whereupon the Sen&tilde;ora stalked out of doors, armed herself with a length of rawhide rope, swept into the <HI REND="italics">sala</HI>
166.sgm: again like an avenging goddess and sailed into the embryo judge with such expletives as: "Thou canst no longer speak Spanish, hey?  Well, <HI REND="italics">I'll</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Por Dios, mama--mamacita--por Dios, no, no</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The Judge's lordly appearance and superior education gave him prestige among all classes and he became almost everything that a leading citizen could become except a capitalist.  This distinction seemed beyond his talents.  He was always "broke."  He sought to remedy this failing by laying claim to one hundred leagues of land in and surrounding Soledad Pass, Los Angeles County, at the time land titles were under examination by the United States Land Commission, but the government refused to recognize the validity of the Judge's claim and he continued to remain chronically in need of money.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Nevertheless, the leading people always esteemed it a pleasure, indeed an honor, to drink with this lordly and impressive representative of the high Spanish past.  The Judge was never compelled to go thirsty; it was a privilege to stand treat to him, so he kept pretty well filled up all the time.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At one time the weight of debt became so crushing that this distinguished person sent for an American lawyer whom he believed to be more versed than himself in certain legal technicalities and asked him to put him through insolvency.  The lawyer sat down with him and said:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Now, Judge, whom do you owe and what are the amounts?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Judge pondered for a moment and replied: " <HI REND="italics">Es todo el mundo</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Taken aback for a moment, the lawyer continued:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Well, Judge, who owes you and how much?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Ninguno</HI>
166.sgm:<P>A building once projected into Main Street, beyond the usual property line, just north of the St. Elmo Hotel<ANCHOR ID="n12-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>General Jose&acute; Antonio Carrillo.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>An hidalgo of early days, Jose&acute; Sepu&acute;lveda.  Alcalde of Los Angeles 1836-38 and father of Ygna&acute;cio Sepu&acute;lveda, the later-day Superior Court Judge of Los Angeles County</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Young native dandies of 1850.  Pictured just before leaving for Boston to enter college.  Left to right Ygna&acute;cio Sepu&acute;lveda, Antonio Yorba, Andronico Sepu&acute;lveda.  Ygna&acute;cio served for years as a Superior Court Judge of Los Angeles County.  <HI REND="italics">From a daguerreotype</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1b">Still standing on west side of Main Street a little north of the Federal Building.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>In those days the courtroom rent was paid by the judge himself from the fees and emoluments of office.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Our Judge got way behind in his rent and the landlord, growing tired of constantly climbing the stairway to dun the tenant, resolved upon a high pressure plan.  Each time he called without getting results he removed a step from the stairway, beginning at the bottom, until the stairway was all but wrecked.  Then the landlord laid low and awaited results.  The situation was embarrassing to the tenant, for he had business of his own beside the court grind and clients found it increasingly difficult to reach him.  However, it also discouraged visits from his creditors, so this state of affairs remained in <HI REND="italics">status quo</HI>
166.sgm:<P>One day, on a professional call, I entered the courtroom after a difficult crawl up the great notched plank that had formed the outer support of the missing steps, a feat accomplished by reaching over and balancing myself against the wall of the building at critical moments.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Upon entering and regaining my breath I addressed the Court as follows: "Your Honor, what in the world is the matter with your stairway?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Judge answered in great indignation.  "Why, it's those damn Mexicans up in Sonoratown!  It's been a long time since we've had an election and those fellows have got to live somehow.  So they're stealing my steps to cook their <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Of course the Judge wasn't telling the truth, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Sure enough not long thereafter the Frenchman who owned the building began to struggle up the notched plank, for he had become tired of laying siege without any visible results.  The constable warned His Honor; His Honor took his seat on the judicial rostrum, lined up his constable and instructed his clerk to call the court to order.  Several loafers in the courtroom, hoping for something to happen, sat up in anticipation.  The landlord entered, rent bill in hand.  He hesitated as he found himself intruding on the dignity of a court in session, but with Gallic determination, where money matters are concerned, sidled over to the bench and laid the bill in front of His Honor.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"What is this?" thundered the Judge.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"My bill for rent on this courtroom, that's what it is," replied the intruder doggedly, determined to press his point.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"An outrage!" announced the Judge.  "Do you not know, sir, that this court is in session, and that your conduct, sir, is in contempt?  Mr. Clerk, enter this order: The Court imposes a fine upon Mr. Parlezvous of fifty dollars for contempt of court, in lieu of payment thereof he to be confined in the County Jail at the rate of a day for each two dollars until the fine is satisfied, and in addition thereto that he be confined in the County Jail for five days <HI REND="italics">anyhow</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Over his sputtering protests the Frenchman was led out by the constable; but in a few minutes the two returned and the officer spoke privately to the Judge.  The prisoner, said the constable, had weakened; he had pressing business affairs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The Judge accepted, the bill was receipted and the fine was marked paid on the docket.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Mr. Parlezvous started out.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"No, you don't," called the Judge.  "Mr. Constable, take this man to jail.  The sentence carried five days of imprisonment <HI REND="italics">anyhow</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The landlord was a diplomat and sounded a parley.  He had business to attend to, he simply couldn't afford those days in jail.  The Judge finally agreed to suspend execution of the sentence until the stairway was placed in order, and added: "If the work is done to my entire satisfaction I will pardon you, sir; but first write me a receipt for a month's rent paid in advance."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Judge's terms were met by the landlord; but following the restoration of the stairway the Frenchman returned with a lawyer and served his tenant with a month's notice to vacate, which the Judge had to obey.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This our Judge was as wise as Solomon.  A Jew lost a purse that he said contained a twenty dollar gold piece and three silver dollars.  A Mexican found a purse that he said contained when he picked it up a twenty dollar gold piece and no more.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Jew claimed the purse and the Mexican handed it over with the twenty dollar piece in it.  The Jew insisted that the Mexican hand over the three silver dollars that he claimed should have been in it.  The Mexican said he never saw them, and the Jew in high dudgeon hied himself to the Judge.  The Mexican was arrested and brought before the court.  After the Jew had testified, exhibiting the wallet and the gold piece, the Court demanded possession of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>When all testimony was in the Judge summed up as follows: "To the Court this seems a very plain case.  The complaining witness lost a purse containing twenty-three dollars.  The defendant found a purse containing twenty dollars.  Evidently, then, this was not the purse lost by complainant.  Defendant honestly but mistakenly handed the purse he had found over to the man who had lost a purse containing a different sum of money.  The Court finds the defendant not guilty of the offense charged and the case is herewith dismissed."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Jew reached out for the purse on the Judge's bench.  The Judge raised his eyebrows and said: "Why, the purse is not <HI REND="italics">yours</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The Mexican, taking hope at these words, turned back and reached for it himself.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why, <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
166.sgm:, you merely found it, it isn't <HI REND="italics">yours</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Den in de name of Holy Moses who dos it belong to?" burst out the Jew.</P>
166.sgm:<P>With great solemnity the Judge declared: "The purse and money are confiscate to the government and appropriate to the Court as costs in the case."</P>
166.sgm:<P>On one occasion a Mexican had a negro woman arrested and haled before this same court on a charge of stealing his chickens.  She was tried and found guilty.  The Judge pronounced as follows: "Under the Mexican Law of Restitution<ANCHOR ID="n12-5">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-5">Local magistrates sometimes rendered decisions by old Mexican codes of law and procedure, even after statehood.  This practice had become established during the years of American military occupation preceding statehood when the people were allowed to continue to exercise civil authority according to their customs under officials of their own election.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Accordingly at daybreak the negress returned certain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>He was haled into court, pleaded not guilty and demanded immediate trial.  Before proceeding the Judge ordered the fellow to bring the chickens into court.  This being done Don Jesu&acute;s, one of the complaining witnesses, pointed out three of the birds as his, and Juan de Dios pointed out others that he said belonged to him.  They could prove it, they said, by the fact that they had parts of the same brood at their respective chicken corrals.  Whereupon the Judge ordered them to bring samples into court, and further ordered the first Mexican to fetch <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
166.sgm: the chickens at his place to see how they compared in breed with the disputed fowls.  Still further, he commanded the negress to bring all <HI REND="italics">her</HI>
166.sgm:<P>When court adjourned that afternoon the Judge ordered his constable to place all the chickens in the yard in the rear of the courtroom and guard them until morning.</P>
166.sgm:<P>On the morrow the wrangle was resumed.  By the time of adjournment that day the fowls had become so mixed that the Court declared he couldn't tell them head from tail and abruptly closed the case with this decision:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"It is scandalous, it is outrageous, it is an insult to justice that a court of the great State of California should be brought into such contempt by such a set of people.  You," turning to the negro woman, "are fined five dollars for contempt of court in not returning the same chickens that you were supposed to have stolen from the first complainant.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Sixty, may it please Your Honor."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Case dismissed.  I suppose the chickens will just about pay the fines; the clerk will see that the matter is squared up on this basis.  Court is adjourned."</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Juan Villa</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 13</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Tale from Nicaragua About Tails in Kentucky</HI>
166.sgm:<P>TOM was a Kentuckian, and a typical one; he was also a '49er and a typical pioneer.  At this writing he is a resident of Los Angeles County, still hail and hearty and full of rich old tales of adventure.  Something of a philosopher he is, too, who has tried to search out the possible inner meaning of certain weird happenings in his life.  Tom and I were schoolmates in Kentucky a long while ago, though he was six or seven years my senior.  After some ups and downs we went to Nicaragua together with the Walker forces and after the war there he remained several years in Central America before returning to California.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In 1866, after his return to the Golden State, I met him out on his Temescal Ranch.  He insisted on my remaining several days as his guest and we spent practically the whole time exchanging experiences since last we were together.  I asked Tom for a detailed history of his adventures in Central America after the expulsion of the Americans and some of the tales he told seem worth recording here.  For instance, the story that was brought up by Tom's answer to my inquiries, when he said: "Well, it wasn't so bad down there; I got into business, was making good money and I doubt not would have become rich but for my misfortune in shooting old Rafe Rezer."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Old Rafe Rezer of Kentucky?" exclaimed I.  "Why, I remember old Rafe and all the other Rezers big and little."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Sure you do," continued Tom, "but do you remember <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes," I answered.  "And there were a lot of other Ben Shackletts."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Yes," went on Tom.  "And there was Dan Shacklett, that is Old Dan, and Redheaded Dan and Dan the Horse Racer, Black Dan and Dan White-Eye."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Yes, yes," I exclaimed, impatient with the slow progress of the story, "I remember all those and several other Dans, but what about them?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Well, I was about to explain how the feud came about between the Whimps and the Shackletts so you'll understand it all better.  You know the Shackletts were rather high-toned, proud fellows.  Did you ever see any of the fights between the Whimps and the Shackletts?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, I've seen fights between the Whimps and the Shackletts.  What about it?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"As I said before, and as you know, the Rezers were part monkey," continued Tom, unperturbed by my impatience.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, I've heard all that," I answered, "but I guess it was only a slander on the family."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why," said Tom in slow surprise, "you know as well as I do that they were part monkey.  Don't you remember how their men, women and children used to climb trees and shake down hickory nuts, how they used to swing from limb to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"How do you know they really had tails?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Well, I'll tell you.  Remember big Redheaded Jim that used to go to our school when Norman J. Coleman was schoolmaster?  Remember the slide we used to have down into Lick Run?  The slide was down the steep blue-mud bank into deep water.  We used to carry buckets of water up the bank to make it smooth and slick--and Great Grizzly wasn't it fun!  Well, that's all over with for us now.  But you ought to remember just as well as I do that our slide had worn itself into such a deep groove that it exposed a root that ran at right angles across its course.  This Redheaded Jim Rezer was about fifteen years old and I remember it just as well as if it happened yesterday, that Jim in sliding down the chute caught his tail under the root and, oh, didn't he howl!  I tell you, Bell, he howled just exactly like some of those Central American monkeys when you make a bad shot and only break a leg.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Jim's tail was at least two and a half inches long.  The Rezers had always resented imputations of kinship with the monkeys, but this settled it.  As I said before they had mixed with the Whimps, and when Long Bill Whimp proposed marriage to the daughter of Dan White-Eye Shacklett, the only answer Dan White-Eye made was, `I don't propose to invest in monkeys at this particular time.'  Right straight there was a fight; other Whimps and other Shackletts came on the ground to see it through, and that was the origin of the feuds betweens the Whimps and the Shackletts."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"But in the name of common sense, Tom," I demanded, "what has this to do with your life in Central America?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"It has everything to do with it.  Changed my whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Why, yes," I answered.  "A fine old Kentucky gentleman he was too.  When I first saw him he was governor of Kentucky."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Did you ever hear him talk about men turning into animals after they died?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Come to think of it I did," said I.  "When a boy I traveled from New Orleans to Louisville on the same boat with Governor Merriweather.  The boat was the <HI REND="italics">Kate Aubrey</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Well, of course," went on Tom, "we used to think the Governor was joking about that sort of thing, but in Central America I had proof positive that his doctrine was true.  After the Walker War I went down to Greytown, on the coast, and there I got acquainted with a Frenchman who was in the business of killing monkeys up on the River Chiripo."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Killing monkeys!  What for?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"For their skins.  There was a French merchant at Greytown who paid twenty cents each for monkey skins to be sent to France to be made into kid gloves.  It took a good shot to work at the business because you had to use a rifle and had to hit your monkey in the head every time or the skin would be worthless.  I hired out on this job, with three or four others, all Frenchmen except myself.  I did all the shooting while they did the skinning and stretching.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"I thought it was the best job I ever got into until one morning I went out shooting monkeys and saw one old fellow hanging to a limb.  He made a splendid target and I blazed away.  He fell.  When I got to him I couldn't find where I had drawn blood.  He just seemed stunned, and when I had taken out my knife ready to dispatch him after reloading my gun he just raised up on his elbow, opened his eyes and looked me square in the face.  I hope I may never speak again if it wasn't old Rafe Rezer looking at me!</P>
166.sgm:<P>"He actually seemed to speak to me but I couldn't understand what he said.  `Great God, Uncle Rafe, is that you?' I cried, and he nodded his head as if to say, `It's me!'  He recovered the use of his limbs and sprang into a tree, then away through the jungle.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I wouldn't kill a monkey now any more than I would a human.  I quit my three partners and went to Greytown with a capital of a thousand dollars.  There I met up with an Englishman who had mining interests in Honduras and went with him to Teguciga&acute;lpa, the capital of that country.  Something entirely different happened to break up this Honduras venture.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I'd been managing the mining property out in the mountains near the capital for a year and began to feel like a real mining magnate on my way to millions when along comes a Fourth of July and with it a feeling to celebrate.  I concluded to give the natives a regular old-fashioned Kentucky barbecue.  We were making lots of money and I staged the fiesta lavishly, telling the native miners to go into Teguciga&acute;lpa and bring out all their friends.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"The day arrived, and how things hummed!  Unwisely I had supplied the camp with <HI REND="italics">aguardiente</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"The first time I used the words, ` <HI REND="italics">Independencia y Libertad</HI>
166.sgm:,' they all began to prick up their ears and a few yelled out `Independence and Liberty forever!'  Then I began talking about tyrants, the bands began playing patriotic airs and the whole gang started to yeowling like demons.  They all thought it was a <HI REND="italics">pronunciamento</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"I attempted to explain.  The more I talked the greater grew their enthusiasm and the first thing I knew a half dozen fellows put a great big cocked hat on my head, buckled a sword belt around my waist with a great long straight blade attached and vociferated, `On to Teguciga&acute;lpa!  Down with tyrants!  Viva el General!'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"There was a mad rush toward the capital and I was borne along on the current.  Such excitement I never saw in my life.  We emerged from the mountain road onto the Camino Real leading to the city and rushed headlong down it, the crowd screaming all the time, `Viva el General!' and brandishing machetes.  Speak to them!  Explain!  Might just as well have tried to reason with a Kansas cyclone or a Dakota blizzard.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"As we rolled along we gained in numbers and when we neared the city there were at least a thousand of us.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"The next morning I had a drum-head court martial and was sentenced to be shot at sunrise.  The American consul came to see me and when I explained how it had all happened he interposed on my behalf and got the sentence changed to immediate expulsion from the country.  All of my property was confiscated and all I had to get to San Francisco on was a purse that my American friends made up for me.  I got back to California with just four-bits in my pocket, after an absence of four years and experiences that cost me several little fortunes.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The first thing I did was to write back to Kentucky to inquire about old friends and among them Rafe Rezer.  What do you think?  I learned that just one year before I knocked that last old monkey out of the tree down on the Ri&acute;o Chiripo old Rafe Rezer died in Kentucky."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Tom had another idea that was as original and radical as his faith in the transmigration of souls.  This was his belief in Tansy Bitters.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Speaking of the high average of manhood produced in Kentucky, the superiority of the Kentuckians as a race, I told him the reason lay in their origin.  That is, that their ancestors had all been born right of proven pioneer stock; that in conquering the country from the Red Man, subduing the forest, resisting the elements, building up a society of their own in the wilderness, always working, always combating dangers, they had developed a race of giants, physically and morally.  This is what Tom replied to my line of argument:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"That's only partly true.  The main cause for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>About '87 or '88 Tom became jailer of the Los Angeles city jail, and what a perfection of a jailer!  Besides keeping the place as clean as a Dutch dairy he lived up to his convictions concerning Tansy Bitters and supplied a great demijohn of the concoction which he dealt out three times a day as part of the regular ration to every prisoner.</P>
166.sgm:<P>What a jolly old jail that was!  In that calaboose the blessed millennium had arrived, the prisoners thought.  But, of course, there is always somebody to come along and point out imperfection in the heart of perfection.  A member of the city Police Commission was a preacher.  In nosing around he discovered this benevolent practice of Jailer Tom's and had him hauled up before the commission on the charge of dispensing liquor to prisoners.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Well, Tom just lit into that commission with a red hot defense of his beliefs; said yes, it was true he was serving Tansy Bitters to the city boarders because the stuff was not only good for their bodies but good for their souls; that it toned their livers and thereby sweetened their spirits; that he was supplying it at his own expense for the benefit of unfortunates and he didn't see how it was anybody's business but his own.  He felt that a man in his position was not there merely to insure the imprisonment of men committed to his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The commission tabooed Tansy Bitters and Tom quit his job.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Bernardo Yorba</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 14</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Peg-Leg Smith, the Death Valley Party and John Goller's Mine</HI>
166.sgm:<P>THE story of the "Death Valley Party''<ANCHOR ID="n14-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1a">Descendants of the survivors of this party now living in California hold a picnic and reunion February 4 every year on the San Francisquito Rancho in memory of the rescue.  The larger portion of the Death Valley emigrants that suffered so terribly during the crossing in 1849-50 is generally known as the Jayhawker Party.  (See Manly's "Death Valley in '49.")</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>In February, 1850, a few forlorn human beings, starved to skeleton-like thinness, staggered into Los Angeles after having rested for a few days at the hospitable ranch house of Don Jose&acute; Salazar--the old adobe house on the hill, the remains of which may be seen to this day as one journeys from Los Angeles to Santa Ba&acute;rbara by rail, near the present Newhall ranchhouse.<ANCHOR ID="n14-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1b">Via the old Saugus branch.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Among these survivors was the Rev. J. W. Brier, mentioned by me in a former book as having been the first Protestant minister to preach a sermon in Los Angeles.  Another member of the party was honest John Goller, our pioneer blacksmith.  John died about fifteen years ago honored and respected by all our people who had known him for so long, for he resided here continuously from the day of his arrival.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This John Goller was a sturdy German about thirty years old when he stumbled into Jose&acute; Salazar's house with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The author has little faith in the actual existence of the Peg-Leg Mine because it was reported by that artistic old liar, Peg-Leg Smith, whom he had the honor of knowing in the palmy days of Peg-Leg's lawlessness.  Peg-Leg was the biggest horse thief that ever ranged the country between the Missouri River and the Pacific Ocean.  In 1850, away up in what is now Idaho, I saw old Peg-Leg with a herd of fifteen hundred horses which the year previously he had stolen from the Los Angeles valley--the "Spanish Country," as he called it, after the habit of the trappers and early explorers.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Indeed, Peg-Leg was a magnificent thief on the wholesale plan and the most superlative liar that ever honored California with his presence.  In the latter days of the '50's, dilapidated and played-out, he found his way once more to Los Angeles and sat around the old Bella Union bar, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Ever since the old man died people have been searching for the Peg-Leg Mine, but they will never find it in spite of certain ore which he procured somewhere and exhibited, because it is a myth, a Peg-Leg lie.  But the Goller Mine will some day be found, and it will provide plenty of excitement.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This section of the Death Valley Party with which Goller arrived struggled for fifty-two days across a blistered volcanic desert.  It makes a terrible tale, this journey of fifty-seven people through the then unknown and desolate region.  They covered eight hundred miles of utter wilderness, climbed dead volcanoes never seen by white men before, traversed the hideous Death Valley, dragged along for days without water, ate the hides and very bones of their starved cattle.  The party, with a train of forty wagon, started from Galesburg, Illinois, one of the thousands of expeditions made up in '49 for the trip to the gold country.  Most of them were young men and they were well equipped.</P>
166.sgm:<P>They set out on April 5th and traveled across Missouri in the leisurely style of the ox trains of those days.  They crossed the Missouri River at a point where Omaha stands to-day, but then there was nothing there but a few lazy Indians roosting on the river bank and staring at the long line of prairie schooners.  Then across the plains to Salt Lake.  Their passage did not differ materially from the experiences of the numberless others pressing westward.  Indians stampeded their cattle so that they were late in arriving at Salt Lake, which they reached in the middle of August.  Here the usual halt was made for rest and refitting before attempting the most difficult stretch--the final <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>From Salt Lake there were two trails to the Farther West, the northern one known as Sublette's Cut-off and the southern one as the Old Spanish Trail.  The Galesburg party decided to take the Spanish Trail which crossed the Wasatch range near Little Salt Lake two hundred and fifty miles south of the Mormon town.  This decision was made after consultation with Kit Carson, Peg-Leg Smith and John Bridger and was influenced by the tragic fate of the Donner party a few years earlier, which had attempted the northern trail and made a failure of it.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Galesburg party combined at Salt Lake with several other wagon trains and the combined forces hired a guide in the person of Captain Hunt, who had served in the Mormon Battalion during the Mexican War.  He agreed to guide the train for twelve hundred dollars.  Captain Baxter of Michigan was elected to command the party, which now consisted of one hundred and five wagons and two hundred and ninety persons.  Doctor McCormack of Iowa City was chosen lieutenant.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The start from Salt Lake was made December 4, 1849.  Everything went smoothly to the point where the trails forked fifty miles south of the lake.  Here the Spanish Trail turned to the left and Walker's Cut-off to the right.  Nobody knew anything about the Walker route except that Fre&acute;mont the Pathfinder had tried to get through that way and failed.  But it was rumored that it was a much shorter route and many of the party insisted on trying it.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"If you do," said the positive Captain Hunt, "you'll all go to Hell."</P>
166.sgm:<P>A certain Captain Smith, however, said he could guide them over it, and one hundred wagons turned into Walker's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>It soon became evident that this Captain Smith knew nothing at all of the route.  The party became hopelessly lost in a maze of untracked mountains.  Scouts were sent out and a pass to the southwest was finally reported.  Sixty-five of the wagons swung off to try this pass.  The others had had enough and turned back for the forks.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Two days later the wagons that had continued on to the southwest encamped for Sunday on the spot made memorable afterwards by the Mountain Meadow Massacre<ANCHOR ID="n14-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-2">Mountain Meadow, Utah, where a train of gentile emigrants was set upon by Indians September 7, 1857, and thirty-six killed.  The Indians were led against the whites by a Mormon named Lee and the belief throughout the non-Mormon portion of the population of the United States that the Mormon Church had instigated the massacre aroused great bitterness.  It seems never to have been proved, however, that the Mormons as an organization had anything to do with the attack.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>In the next few days of increasingly difficult travel which seemed to lead them nowhere the weaker spirits began to drop out and attempt to struggle back.  Soon there were left only thirty-seven persons who were determined to push ahead.  Among them were one woman and two children, the family of the Reverend Brier.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Briefly, their sufferings from here on were almost beyond belief.  Through the dismal volcanic mountains of Nevada they struggled, over ranges never crossed before, into dark can&tilde;ons, across blistering waterless deserts, through regions of alkali and sulphur, and then through Death Valley itself.</P>
166.sgm:<P>For days they had no water at all.  For fifty-two days they subsisted on their oxen.  After six weeks of this they found that they would have to abandon their wagons, for what was left of their starving cattle could not drag them along.  In Forty Mile Can&tilde;on, where there was water, they constructed two two-wheeled carts, loaded on these such water as they could carry, and the children, and struggled on.  Soon the few remaining cattle became too feeble to drag the carts over the mountains and these vehicles were abandoned.  On Christmas Day they set about improvising <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>These Georgians, too, were in a pitiable condition and wild to get out of that region despite a discovery they had made which under different conditions would have brought them great happiness.  These men were all skilled miners, and they reported that they had come upon a mountain fabulously rich in silver ore, specimens of which they carried.  Only two of these Georgians ever reached the coast.  Continuing by themselves on the route they had chosen, the rest of them were killed by Indians.  One of the survivors has declared that no sum of money would tempt him to try to guide a party to seek the silver mountain.  His experiences were so terrible that he cannot be tempted into that infernal region again.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Galesburg Party continued to struggle wretchedly along in the direction which they hoped would see them through.  They had no shoes now and wrapped their bleeding feet in pieces of hide which they spared from the cook-pots.  The remaining cattle upon which they were now subsisting were rendered unwholesome by the alkali and the sulphur that permeated everything that they consumed; such flesh as they had was yellowish with a sort of slime, a putrefaction which set in even while they were still alive, and rendered the flesh revolting even to the hunger-crazed gold hunters.  Yet eat these miserable beasts they did, even to the thin blood-and-water marrow in their bones, and to their hides, which were singed and boiled into a semblance of soup.  This cowhide soup, when water could be found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Finally the dreariest region on earth, Death Valley, in California, was reached.  Here their sufferings were intensified even beyond what they had already endured.  Death Valley is the empty basin of an extinct lake.  It is largely sand and alkali and lies below the sea level; the heat, even late in the season, in the day time, is fearful and the lack of water deadly.  There is no life there.  It takes its name from the discovery in later years of the bodies of nine men of this and following parties.<ANCHOR ID="n14-3">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-3">Of recent years two winter resorts have been opened in Death Valley.  There are also several ranches where water has been developed, the best-known property being that of Walter Scott ("Death Valley Scotty"), an old-time prospector who has built a bizarre group of stone castles said to have cost a million or more dollars.  His wealth is popularly supposed to come from a mine the location of which he alone knows, but recent developments tend to prove that he is financed from more practical sources.  The lowest point on the floor of Death Valley is the lowest point on the continent, three hundred feet below sea level.  Not far away is the highest point in the continental United States, Mount Whitney, 14,502 feet above sea level.  Manly in his "Death Valley in '49" claims his party gave the region its sinister name.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>For one stretch of one hundred miles these desperate Illinois people found no water.  There were five successive days when they went without a drop.  Finally they discovered one small spring, known to this day as Providence Spring.  Just before the discovery one of the men, named Ishem, gave out utterly.  The others were too feeble too carry him and had to leave him where he lay.  Finding the spring and feeling refreshed the strongest hurried back to him with water and found him dead.  But he had crawled after them for four miles on his hands and knees before he died.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Another, William Robertson, had been carried for days on the back of a surviving ox.  When the animal succumbed this miserable man crawled along over the burning sand as best he could.  On one of the terrible long stretches without water Robertson fell further and further to the rear while the stronger members of the party pushed on in a desperate attempt to locate moisture before all should be reduced to the same hopeless predicament.</P>
166.sgm:<P>A trickle was found.  A messenger was hurried back to shout the tidings to the straggle, to keep courage alive in his brain until a water bottle could be filled at the slow seepage and rushed back to him.  Madly joyous at the news Robertson struggled to his feet--then fell, utterly overcome <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Another of the party, old Father Fisher, struggled hard with the rest to clamber out of a deep can&tilde;on in the mountains enclosing the Valley of Death; he reached the top and fell dead without a groan.  The worst fate of all was that of a Frenchman of the party who went crazy one night and wandered off into the desert.  Fifteen years later hunters found him a prisoner among the Digger Indians, still wildly insane and for this reason feared and respected by the superstitious tribesmen.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Mrs. Brier, the lone woman, withstood the ordeal better than any one else.  When the men were too weak to put the pack saddles on the animals it was Mrs. Brier who did the work.  When a traveler fell by the trail it was Mrs. Brier who encouraged him to make another effort.  She was a delicate woman weighing but one hundred and fifteen pounds at the start of the trip.  She brought her children, four and seven years old, through it all alive.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Reverend Brier, telling of the final experiences of the party as it approached the Newhall Ranch, then known as the San Francisquito, said:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"We crossed a little prairie into a dry waste.  Here we saw grizzly bears.  We struggled on down a can&tilde;on that had a little water in its bed and came to a valley three or four miles wide.  There was no sight of any more water.  I sat down under an oak tree concluding to die there but was cheered on by finding some acorns which we ground and ate.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"My wife begged me to try just once more and we struggled on.  Getting ahead of the party I sat down on a little knoll.  The wind brought me the lowing of cattle.  We pressed on and getting to the top of a small divide saw a rich country and ten thousand cattle feeding.  One of the boys discovered a ranch on a hill.  An old Spaniard came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The section of the Galesburg Party which followed the Old Spanish Trail under Captain Hunt arrived safely at the end of the Trail where San Bernardino now stands and some of our oldest Los Angeles citizens of American origin were among these arrivals, namely: John G. Nichols, one of our first American mayors of the city; our pioneer lawyers, Louis C. Granger and Jonathan R. Scott; George D. W. Robinson, Johann Graff, who had a farm at the corner of Figueroa and Jefferson streets, and several others whose names I fail to record.  These are now all dead but their descendants are residents of Los Angeles.  The guide, Captain Hunt, became one of the founders of San Bernardino and represented Los Angeles County in the State Legislature in 1853-4.</P>
166.sgm:<P>To conclude with Peg-Leg Smith, he was born in Missouri about the beginning of the nineteenth century and was a great character among the mountaineers of early days.  He turned Indian, had Indian wives and became a Blackfoot chief.  I was at his camp one year (all Indians except Peg-Leg and myself) at Soda Springs on the Bear River about two hundred miles northwest of Salt Lake and about twenty-five miles from old Fort Hall.  Shortly afterward he went to the forks of the emigrant road where one led to Oregon via Fort Hall and the other to California via Sublette's Cut-off and sold the horses he had stolen from the Spanish Country (Los Angeles) to the emigrants.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Later in the season he came down to California with bags full of money and hung out around the mines, especially at Hangtown, now Placerville.  He had abandoned his Indian friends and left his wives behind.  He had no one with him except his son Jimmy, a twelve-year-old halfbreed.  Peg-Leg considered himself quite a gambler and thought he could gamble among the sharps of Hangtown as successfully as he had among the trappers and Indians of the mountains.  The result was that it didn't take long for Peg-Leg to lose all his money, and I don't think he ever made another raise.</P>
166.sgm:<P>One day I was on my way down from Hangtown to Diamond Springs with some companions and we found old Peg-Leg lying beside the trail dead drunk.  Jimmy, his son, was standing over him trying to beat him into consciousness with a club.  What became of Jimmy I never knew and I do not recall exactly when or where Peg-Leg died but I think his death occurred while I was absent in the army during the War of the Rebellion.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Smith was called Peg-Leg because he wore a wooden limb, and this is the way he came to lose the original member: It was on his last foray into the Spanish Country, when he made the big drive of horses heretofore mentioned.  With his equine booty he fled through the Cajon Pass,<ANCHOR ID="n14-4">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-4">The pass through which the Atchison, Topeka &amp; Santa Fe&acute; Railroad crosses the San Bernardino Mountains from the desert to the San Bernardino Valley.  It is about seventy-five miles east of Los Angeles.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Thereafter Peg-Leg was equipped with a special stirrup.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 15</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Really Important Events</HI>
166.sgm:<P>THE author is writing history as it was made in the City of the Angels.  If some of it is diabolic instead of angelic that is not his fault.  Purely angelic information becomes monotonous, commonplace and untrue.  Too much of this sort of thing has been written and published in the form of biographical sketches of pioneer characters of the Angel burgh.  Absolutely commonplace, such as:</P>
166.sgm:<P>John Jones was the first man in Los Angeles to curry a horse American-fashion.</P>
166.sgm:<P>James Augustus baked the first loaf of American bread.</P>
166.sgm:<P>John G., shod the first horse<ANCHOR ID="n15-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1a">The native Californians did not shoe their horses.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Dick Smith opened the first peanut establishment and Harry Smith drove the first dray.</P>
166.sgm:<P>And so forth.  All angelic characters, no doubt, pioneering necessary tasks, but tasks of small importance historically as compared, for instance, to the opening of the initial first class American saloon and the establishment of the first Protestant church.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Thus far no historian has designated for posterity the man who opened the first American saloon or consecrated the first American church; and believing these to be characters of real historical importance because of these momentous acts of theirs, I am going to inform the present generation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>John Bankhead Magruder was colonel of the First United States Artillery and commandant of the military district including Los Angeles in 1851-2-3.  His headquarters were at San Diego.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Samuel R. Dummer, a captain in the United States Voltigeur Regiment in the Mexican War, had hung his hat on a Los Angeles peg when he was mustered out of the service.  Dummer was a warm-blooded, convivial chap, a superlative boon companion.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Magruder sympathized with Dummer in all his genial propensities; they were both typical hail-fellows, well-met; and when the colonel of artillery came up from his lonesome post on the shores of San Diego Bay to enjoy the indulgences of a lively town these two would get together and make our Rome howl.  Los Angeles was a lively little city in those rough days; San Diego was a place of historic renown but was, except for the presence of the military garrison, as dead as a door nail.  Magruder liked life as it was lived in Los Angeles and whenever he honored our pueblo with a visit he certainly livened things up, even here where they were already very lively.</P>
166.sgm:<P>There was then--that is, when Magruder and Dummer first figured in town topics--no first class drinking place, and of this drawback the Colonel and the Captain complained loudly when they "got on a time."  They hankered for a really respectable saloon where two gentlemen could get on a bust in the grand manner.</P>
166.sgm:<P>So the two heroes got their heads together with the startling result that they opened a saloon of their own--a respectable saloon for the gentility, according to their notions.  First they bought a lot on Main Street, adjoining the present <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:Pico House<ANCHOR ID="n15-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1b">Now a cheap lodging house for Mexicans on North Main at the Plaza.  It was erected by ex-Gov. Pi&acute;o Pico in 1869 and was for some time thereafter the finest hotel south of San Francisco.  For a decade it was the center of the social life of the city and its once beautiful central court, with fountain and tropical foliage, was the scene of many a notable entertainment and was familiar to travelers from various parts of the world.  In front of the Pico House portals the stages arrived and departed amid much noise, excitement and show of horsemanship, after the new hotel had dimmed the doubtful glory of the old Bella Union, the St. Charles and the Lafayette.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>The building finished, the proprietors placed a large sign over the entrance inscribed:</P>
166.sgm:<P>EL DORADO</P>
166.sgm:<P>But they now found to their consternation that the military chest was empty with the saloon still lacking liquors and billiard table.  So the new firm had recourse to the rich man of the Pueblo, Don Abel Stearns, who loaned them five hundred dollars, taking their joint note for the same bearing interest at 5 per cent. per month, compounded monthly.  The note was secured by a mortgage on the lot.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This transaction took place just fifty-two years ago and now as he writes this truthful historian is holder of that note and mortgage.  Just how they came into his possession is another story but if the reader is curious to know the wealth represented in that security he can figure it out for himself.  I imagine the note and mortgage, if they could be realized on, represent a sum of money larger than our national debt at the date when one of the signers, J. Bankhead Magruder, major-general in the Confederate army, disbanded his army in Texas in May, 1865, with the words, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Well, to return to the beginnings of El Dorado Bar--the billiard table, liquid supplies and other necessities were duly installed and the establishment opened in grand style.  An elegant and highly educated young Irishman, John H. Hughes, was installed as the high-muck-a-muck behind the bar and with a corps of underlings was busy every minute dealing out high class liquid refreshments.  The proprietors did not in any wise demean themselves before their public; indeed, the elegant Colonel Magruder and Captain Dummer figured only as leaders of the practitioners at the bar.</P>
166.sgm:<P>What a jolly, high-toned place was El Dorado!  What a memory--while it lasted.  The run on it was awful, for a while.  Suddenly supplies failed and it was discovered that there was little or no money in the locker with which to replenish the stock.  The hospitality of the proprietors had been too much for the business.  It seemed that every gambler who could put on the grand manner, every down-and-outer that had the art of being a boon companion in the style of a gentleman at other gentlemen's expense, had found a regular home in the dormitory over the saloon and was partaking of free liquor downstairs.  Often Colonel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Faced with a financial impasse the partnership was dissolved and Colonel Magruder fell back on his defenses at San Diego.  Captain Dummer went to Tulare where he became a pioneer sheep raiser and the elegant Irishman behind the bar, nephew of Archbishop Hughes of New York, took over the proprietorship of the Dorado.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This was in 1852.  There was much rejoicing at the reopening, but the Dorado, so successful socially, seemed doomed to failure financially.  Gentlemen do not seem to be successful saloon keepers.  The very accomplished Hughes, trained in the Magruder-Dummer school of the bar, succumbed in '53 to the situation of more outgo than income, and he was succeeded in the Dorado by the Rev. Adam Bland.</P>
166.sgm:<P>So here we have, under one roof as it were, the story of the first American saloon and the first American church in the City of the Angels; for Father Bland desecrated the premises of El Dorado by converting the building into a Methodist church.  The Reverend Brier of Death Valley fame had already preached a sermon or two in the Pueblo but in a room merely loaned for these occasions.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I remember that the Dorado property was offered the missionary for fifteen hundred dollars and he started out to solicit the money.  The first man he appealed to was Capt. Alexander Bell who promptly gave him five hundred dollars.  Delightfully surprised, the Rev. Adam Bland was no less than joyously astonished when Captain Bell introduced him to Don Benito Wilson and that old-timer donated one thousand dollars.  The purchase price of El Dorado achieved in but two calls, the Methodist pioneer caused the impish free <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Alas, poor Hughes, that elegant Irishman!  The like of him was seldom seen except in the days of old, the days of gold in California.  Occasionally I am reminded of him by meeting a very beautiful old sen&tilde;ora, now seventy years old but stately, lithe and sprightly, with lustrous black eyes and rose-colored complexion.  She is a widow now these many years, but once Johnnie Hughes was desperately in love with her.  She jilted him for a native son and it broke his heart.  He became morose, desperate, and after a fling at San Francisco drifted away to Arizona.  Tucson was Arizona then.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In 1857 when the filibusters under Crabb<ANCHOR ID="n15-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-2">Henry A. Crabb, a Stockton lawyer who married into a Spanish family.  He was a Tennessean, a schoolmate of William Walker of the Nicaragua filibuster, and came to California in the same year, 1849.  In 1857 he raised a force of adventurers in San Francisco to invade Sonora for the ostensible purpose of aiding the revolutionists there under Pesquiera against Governor Gandara.  Annexation of Sonora to the United States was the ultimate purpose.  The Crabb expedition came south on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Sea Bird</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The Mexicans attempted to decoy the relief party into a trap but failed to fool Hughes and Oury, who both had seen service, and the smaller American force withdrew, fighting as they retreated.  A stubborn running fight was kept up all the way from Sonoita to Tucson, about seventy miles, Hughes covering the retreat of his comrades.  About ten miles from Tucson, in a hand to hand combat with three Mexicans, the gallant Irish-American was shot dead.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Colonel, later the Confederate general, Magruder, was a great man in his way.  When General Canby was commanding the Union army in Louisiana and Texas in 1864-5 Magruder was one of the Confederate generals who confronted him.  A great game of strategy followed with St.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Magruder's habits of life impaired his military career.  He made a mistake in being born in America.  The man was a Grand Turk in all of his natural instincts and in any Christian land was out of place.  What finally became of this great pioneer California military commander I never knew, but I do know that I shed tears of sorrow when some thirty years ago I read in a New York paper that the defender of Yorktown had been arrested and thrown into Tombs Prison for drunkenness.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Antonio Franco Coronel</P>
166.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 16</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Death Sentence at Monterey and a Sporting Event at Gilroy's</HI>
166.sgm:<P>THERE were many queer and original characters in California during the early days and I knew a lot of them quite intimately; but none of those I remember was more strikingly original than Judge J. W. Redman, who presided over the courts of San Jose&acute;, Monterey and San Lui&acute;s Obispo when they were first organized under American authority.  He was a <HI REND="italics">nisi prius</HI>
166.sgm:<P>One morning Judge Redman saddled his horse at Monterey to ride to San Lui&acute;s Obispo in pursuit of his legal duties.  After mounting he recalled that a certain Mexican convicted of murder was to be brought before him in Monterey that morning for sentence.  So the Judge rode over to the courthouse, threw the bridle-reins over a post, strode into court with jingling spurs, took his seat on the bench and called upon his bailiff to produce the murderer for sentence.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The bailiff conveyed the news to the sheriff at the calaboose and the prisoner was led into court.  The sheriff informed the court that the Mexican could not speak English and asked if he should go out and drum up an interpreter.  The Judge, recollecting the long, hard day's ride ahead of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Stand up!" ordered Judge Redman, addressing the Mexican.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">No entiendo</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"You no speakie <HI REND="italics">Ingles</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Poquito</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"You sabe that <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Si&acute;, sen&tilde;or.  El es jerif</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"That's right, he's the sheriff.  He's going to do this to you, see?"  The Judge took from his coat-tails pocket a big bandanna, twisted it up to look like a rope, and continued:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"You sabe lariat?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, <HI REND="italics">si&acute; sen&tilde;or--chicote</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"That's right--lariat, <HI REND="italics">chicote</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The Mexican shaded his eyes and peered out the window.  " <HI REND="italics">Es un encino, sen&tilde;or</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"All right then, that's an <HI REND="italics">encino</HI>
166.sgm:.  We call him tree, sabe?"  Remounting the bench, the Court then proceeded with the sentence.  "The judgment of this court is that the sheriff put a <HI REND="italics">chicote</HI>
166.sgm: around your neck, that he take you to that big <HI REND="italics">encino</HI>
166.sgm: and that he then and there hang you, Jesu&acute;s Mendoza, by said neck until dead.  Now, in case you do not understand clearly, you sabe hang?  How you say him in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Ahorcar, sen&tilde;or</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Yes, yes--that's it--I had forgotten that part of my Spanish.  Now, what you call this?" indicating his neck.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Pescuezo, sen&tilde;or</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"All right, now we understand each other.  Next Friday between the hours of ten A.M. and two P.M. the sheriff will take you to that big <HI REND="italics">encino</HI>
166.sgm:, put a <HI REND="italics">chicote</HI>
166.sgm: around your <HI REND="italics">pescuezo</HI>
166.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">ahorcar</HI>
166.sgm: you until dead, and may the Lord bless you.  <HI REND="italics">Entiende</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, <HI REND="italics">si&acute; sen&tilde;or, entiendo.  Muchas mil gracias, sen&tilde;or juez</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"This court stands adjourned for the term."  The Judge's spurs jingled out of the courtroom and soon the hoofbeats of his mount were heard pounding southward.</P>
166.sgm:<P>R. A. Redman, a son of this eminent jurist, one of the oldest barristers in California and at the present writing an honored member of the Los Angeles bar, inherits a great deal of his father's originality of character to which is added a rich fund of humor.  How he became deputy treasurer of Santa Clara County is one of his best stories.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It seems that in the days when R. A. was a young man his father was the fortunate possessor of an old iron safe he had salvaged from a stranded whaler on the shores of Monterey Bay.  This he had in his home in San Jose&acute;, county seat of Santa Clara County.  A certain Murphy was county treasurer and coveted the old safe, the only one in town, as a repository for the official funds.  So he approached young Redman and proposed that if he could procure the use of his father's safe he would appoint the boy deputy treasurer at a salary of two hundred and fifty a month.  The deal was put through and young R. A. was installed in the office of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>At times Murphy would bring a friend to his young deputy and say: "Look here, Red, my friend Jim has been in bad luck.  He's been bucking monte and has gone flat broke.  Give him a stake out of the safe, that's a good boy, and he'll bring it back to you in a day or two for his luck is bound to change."</P>
166.sgm:<P>So Red would hand over a thousand dollars or so of tax money and Jim would go back to break the monte bank.  Maybe he would win and return the money in a day or two, and maybe he wouldn't.  San Jose&acute; was the capital of the state at that time, 1850, the legislature was in session and the financial goose hung high, but one day the young deputy treasurer informed his chief that the old iron safe was about twenty-five thousand dollars short and that tax money wasn't flowing in just then to fill the reservoir up again.  This caused Murphy to open his eyes and take thought.  He was a rich man himself and dug down into his jeans.  He made up the losses of his gambling friends to the people of the county then and there and started a life of financial reform, for be it known the Murphys of San Jose&acute; have always had a reputation for strict integrity.  Generous and careless at times, perhaps, but always making good in the pinch.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I speak of the San Jose&acute; Murphys in the plural for there was a big tribe of them in and around the town in those days and they were all rich men.  There is a generation or two of Murphys living there yet and some of them are very rich even for this day.  A thrifty set were the Murphys that came to California in pioneer days.  They all had an eye open to the main point.  For one thing all the young men Murphys married Vallejos and the Vallejos were princely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:in their landed wealth.  That fine old native, Gen. Mariano Vallejo, autocrat of the region north and northeast of San Francisco Bay, had a dozen or two Murphys for sons-in-law, brothers-in-law, cousins-in-law; but somehow or other the whole line of Vallejos went broke while all of the Murphys went rich.<ANCHOR ID="n16-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1a">General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo is often referred to as "the grand old man" of California, intelligent, reasonable and genial though rugged and determined in his opinions once they were formed.  As a landowner he was vastly wealthy, while socially and politically none was more influential.  He was the uncle of General Jose&acute; Castro, the military commander of California at the time of the American occupation, but he was far-seeing enough to anticipate the benefits of the American ownership of California in preference to ownership by England or Russia, which he foresaw as a possibility.  In spite of his friendly attitude toward the United States he was seized in his own home by the Bear Flag party and conveyed to Fre&acute;mont's camp a prisoner, where he was held until the seizure of Monterey by Commodore Sloat put an end to further plans of the American trappers and settlers, backed by their ally, Fre&acute;mont, for an independent California Republic.  Gen. Vallejo made valuable manuscript contributions to the Bancroft historical collection and was always ardently interested in keeping alive the facts and traditions of the past.  The Vallejo stronhold was at Sonoma and the family dominated the whole area north and northeast from San Francisco Bay to the Russian zone.  The sites of the present town of Vallejo and of the Mare Island Navy Yard, on the Straits of Carqui&acute;nez, were part of the Vallejo and Castro domains.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>The former deputy treasurer goes on to tell how Treasurer Murphy went about collecting taxes when the county needed the money, particularly the time when they went down to the famous Gilroy Rancho, where the town of Gilroy now stands and where the old Butterfield transcontinental stage line left the coast and crossed over into the San Joaqui&acute;n Valley via Pacheco Pass going south.  This incident throws such a revealing light on the California of those days, when the state was just in its chaotic beginning as an American commonwealth, that I will try to relate it in the venerable jurist's own words:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"John Gilroy<ANCHOR ID="n16-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-2">Gilroy was the first permanent foreign settler in the Spanish province of California.  In January, 1814, the armed British merchantman <HI REND="italics">Isaac Todd</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"When the first California Legislature set the wheels of the anticipated state government in motion an election was held for county officers and John M. Murphy was elected treasurer and tax collector of Santa Clara County.  He was one of the well-known Murphy family that came to California in 1844.  His Spanish was fluent, he knew all the old families and was deservedly a very popular man.  Though he did not want the office he consented to run for the good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"He certainly did catch the vote for his party but after election he was very little interested in discharging the duties of his office, being wealthy and occupied with large personal affairs.  The quickest and most direct means of getting the tax money in and getting the trouble of collecting over with was all that interested him in the office.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The state law permitted the tax collector to designate one day in each township for the collection of taxes, notice of date to be made public a certain time ahead.  As an election was to be held on a date in the fall of 1850 for members of the ensuing legislature, Murphy appointed this day as tax day in Gilroy Township so that the population would be concentrated and the business thus more easily disposed of.  The Gilroy ranch house, where the voting was to take place, was designated as the point where the tax money was to be rendered.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The Gilroy house was one of those old sprawling tileroofe adobes familiar to all old residents of California, with immense rooms and serapes or blankets serving as shutters and doors to exclude the heat during the mid-day hours.  The election was held in the big central <HI REND="italics">sala</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"There were only forty-five votes in the precinct and these were all in the Chinese teapot--the ballot box--on the long table by noon and everything had proceeded without excitement, even the tax gathering.  The crowd showed plainly a craving for something to happen and a disposition to start something as the day wore on.  There were present not only the forty-five voters but a throng of Indian, Mexican and half-breed vaqueros from the surrounding ranchos charging <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Pretty soon two well dressed men with the appearance of city merchants rode up, dismounted and mingled with the crowd.  They said they were on their way to Monterey on business.  But Murphy and I both recognized the new arrivals, the one as a professional athlete whom we had seen win some sensational footraces in Sacramento, and the other as his manager.  And soon we understood why they were here.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Nicodemus Gilroy, one of Don Juan's numerous sons, was a splendid specimen of manhood, about twenty-two years old, famed over the countryside not only for his horsemanship but for his fleetness of foot.  Footracing was a prominent sport among the Indians but the Spanish Californians seldom became proficient in this sport, though they delighted in watching and betting on any kind of a race.  The Gilroys and their retainers were proud of what they considered the great athletic prowess of Nicodemus and boasted a great deal about him.  But Nicodemus had never had a moment of real training in footracing nor ever contended in a real competition, running down wild cattle being the rule by which his fleetness was judged.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"To shorten a long story, the professional athletes from Sacramento had learned that the Gilroys had lots of money, that they would bet on anything and that they were proud of their Nicodemus.  They had picked out election day as a good moment to start a little excitement to their own profit and soon after their arrival there was a buzz of excitement, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Tax Collector Murphy's conscience felt uneasy as he watched developments.  It was bad form in those days to spoil any sport that did not concern one directly and it wasn't supposed to be one man's business how another man bet his money; but finally Murphy called the Sacramento athletic manager aside and said: `Look here, I don't like to interfere in your affairs, but these people are my friends and I don't like to let this matter go any further until I inform them who your runner is.'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The manager was a very cool, deliberate, polite sort of a person and he replied with icy courtesy: `Mr. Murphy, you can do whatever you think best; you may be able to stop further betting but as for the one thousand dollars already bet, that is in the hands of the stakeholder, and there will be a footrace or a fight.'  He turned on his heel and walked away to where the race course was being cleared and Murphy, deciding that the possibilities of deadly trouble that would follow his interference with the excited crowd should not be risked, said nothing more.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Just as the racers were about to toe the mark old Sen&tilde;ora de Gilroy rushed from the house carrying a big red bandanna in which she jingled six hundred dollars and cried out in Spanish: `Where is that man that thinks he can run faster than my Nicodemus?  I want to bet this on Nicodemus!'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Desirous of stopping the woman from squandering the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Murphy and I were the last to leave the house and go over to where the race was to be held, about three hundred yards distant.  There was not a soul left within the walls; the ballot box, with its ballots, was left deserted in the center of the great <HI REND="italics">sala</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"As we reached the fringe of spectators I noticed a man detach himself and saunter alone back toward the house.  I recognized him as Grove C. Cook,<ANCHOR ID="n16-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1b">Member of the Bidwell Party of 1841, the first American emigrants to cross the plains for the purpose of settling in California.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>"The racers started.  The well-trained professional athlete flew away like an arrow.  Nicodemus Gilroy seemed not only surprised to see a man run with such style and grace, it was a revelation to him.  Then suddenly Nicodemus seemed to realize that this affair had something to do with him.  With an amazing burst of speed he swept past the stranger, looked back at him with a grin, won the race and turned a handspring as he crossed the line.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The ensuing frenzy of the crowd over their champion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Gradually a part of the crowd drifted back into the house and the election officials resumed their places around the ballot box, but no more votes came in and at sundown the counting began.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Let me explain that when Mr. Murphy and I had arrived that morning we had noticed that every one of the election officials was a member of the Whig party.  This looked bad to us, as Democrats, but there was really no other material to be had in the township and there was nothing we could do about it.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"However, as the count proceeded it became evident that the precinct had gone overwhelmingly Democratic!  Slowly, one by one, the little bulwarks of human liberty were lifted from the casket, and every one was a Democratic vote.  The judges looked at the inspector and the inspector looked at the clerks, glowering suspiciously, for all the political talk that had been bantered about that day was to the effect that everybody was voting Whig.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Finally there was just one ballot left in the teapot.  `Well,' grimly said the Whig who was counting, turning the pot upside down with a bang to get the piece of paper out, `the vote will not be unanimous, for I know that I voted the Whig ticket.'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"But that last ballot proved to be a straight Democratic vote!</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The only man in the room who did not seem flabbergasted was the lank mountaineer, Grove C. Cook.  The true <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0053" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Jose&acute; Vejar</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 17</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Life and Death in the City of the Angels</HI>
166.sgm:<P>THE first Los Angeles mob raised its horrid head in 1851 when a Mexican named Zavalete was hanged.  From that time on mob rule and lynchings showed a healthy growth from year to year until in 1861 the great traveler, J. Ross Browne,<ANCHOR ID="n17-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: visiting here, was moved to contribute to <HI REND="italics">Harper's Weekly</HI>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1a">John Ross Browne, author of "Yusef: or The Journey of the Frangi" (1853); "Crusoe's Island: a Ramble in the Footsteps of Alexander Selkirk, with Sketches of Adventures in California and Washoe" (1864); "Adventures in the Apache Country" (1868); "An American Family in Germany" (1871); "Resources of the Pacific Slope" (1875).</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>"Why," wrote the globe-trotting Browne, "you would sit at the breakfast table of the Queen of the Angels and hear the question of going out to shoot men as commonly discussed as would be duck shooting in any other country.  At dinner the question would be, `Well, how many did they shoot to-day?  Who was hanged?'"</P>
166.sgm:<P>One evening this distinguished traveler was sitting under the <HI REND="italics">portales</HI>
166.sgm: in front of the Bella Union Hotel on Main Street, his chair tipped back against the adobe wall as he enjoyed his post-prandial cigar.  Through the deeply-embrasured windows to either side of him could be heard the sounds from the barroom--clinking glasses, loud discussions in English and Spanish, the click of billiard balls.  Outside the street seemed in complete siesta, thought Mr. Browne, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0054" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The Bella Union.  Los Angeles's first hotel and stage station.  <HI REND="italics">From an old lithograph</HI>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0055" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"The Two Friends."  A native cantina of the 1850's in Los Angeles.  It was located at First and Los Angeles Streets.  <HI REND="italics">From an old lithograph</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0056" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Chinese Gambling-house, San Francisco.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0057" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Dead Chinamen in jail yard after the great Los Angeles massacre.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:and he was about to yield to that snoozy feeling himself when he noticed that a citizen had suddenly appeared close to him and without paying the least attention to Browne was dodging back and forth, peering into one window and then another, a double-barreled shotgun held at ready.  Here in the <HI REND="italics">portales</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Finally Mr. Browne could restrain his curiosity no longer and ventured to ask the hunter what he was aiming at.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Sh!  Sh! you damn fool!" whispered Gabe, for this was no less than Gabe Allen, an eminent character of the Pueblo in those days.  "Don't make a noise!  I'm trying to bunch them fellows in there.  I'd like to get a half dozen at a shot."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Before the amazed stranger could ask Gabe why he wanted to get a half dozen human beings at a shot the half dozen apparently bunched, for Gabe raised the gun to fire when J. Ross Browne's humanity compelled him to yell a warning which almost cost him his own life.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Such was the plane of civilization to which our people had attained in that early period of the city's American history.  Thirteen years of American rule had certainly demonstrated to the benighted sons of Mexico the superiority of our civilization.  We had evolved a very simple rule for the classification of the population.  A man was either a manhunter, or he was one of the hunted.  That is, if he amounted to anything at all.  If in neither classification, then he was a mere nonentity.  The decent minority--for there was such a group of nonentities--wondered when and where it would all end.  It was barbarism gone to seed.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The momentous question of when and how it would all culminate was answered on the twenty-fourth of October, 1871.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Ever since that earlier day when the mayor of the town had resigned his position in order to go out and lynch a prisoner who was under the protection of the law of the land Los Angeles was ruled by a lawless mob.  It must be acknowledged that the law as administed by the legal courts was not much better than that administered by the lynchers for the reason that the mob elected the judges and the sheriffs and all the rest of the county officers and if they failed to stand in with the rowdies, the gamblers, the saloonkeepers and the squawmen, they couldn't be ree&die;lected.</P>
166.sgm:<P>All this is disagreeable to recall and to record, but it is a part of the city's history.  The people of Los Angeles made that history.  They sowed the wind and reaped the whirlwind.  "As they sowed so did they reap."  The harvest was gathered in on that twenty-fourth of October already mentioned.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was on that day the mob rose in its maximum fury and turned itself loose on the hapless, helpless Chinese popuation.<ANCHOR ID="n17-2a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: It murdered, robbed, pillaged at will and gloried in it until the indignation of the self-respecting people of the town and of the outlying ranches and settlements brought an end to the orgy.  On that October day barbarism rose to its full tide.  From then on it began to ebb, very slowly at first, but perceptibly until, after the coming of the Southern Pacific Railroad from the north,<ANCHOR ID="n17-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: connecting Los Angeles finally with the rest of the world by modern transportation methods, the city definitely entered the list of orderly American municipalities.  Ruffianism was put down with a heavy hand and most of the mob leaders disappeared.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-2a">This terrible massacre was the first big explosion of the anti-Chinese campaign in California that finally led to the passing of the Chinese Exclusion Act by our national government.  It riveted national attention on the troubled subject of Chinese influence on the Pacific Coast and succeeded the great Chicago fire as the topic of general discussion throughout the United States.  From it grew a new political party supposedly represented by Denis Kearney and his howling San Francisco sand-lotters, and the new state constitution of 1879, dictated by the workingmen.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1b">September, 1876.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Los Angeles was for a long time beyond the reach of religious missionaries.  Their influence was absolutely ineffective.  But by and by there came a civilizer and this was the railroad.  The Southern Pacific found its way hither across the high Tehachepi, down over the burning Mojave Desert, through the twisting Soledad Pass, under the sheer San Fernando mountains through a tunnel costing seven millions of dollars and burst like a white light upon this land of darkness.  From the day the whistle of the first S. P. locomotive was heard in Los Angeles our civilization started on the upgrade.  The missionaries of this civilization that redeemed us were Leland Stanford, Charles Crocker, Mark Hopkins and Collis P. Huntington.  Whether it was their intention or not this was the result.  They raised us from barbarism into moral daylight.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But now let us go back to the twenty-fourth of October, 1871, when the Angels turned themselves loose on the hapless Chinese.  I will state what it was all about, what happened and who were to blame, and I will try to give the truth of it <HI REND="italics">which has never yet been put in print</HI>
166.sgm:.  Hubert Howe Bancroft<ANCHOR ID="n17-2b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: in his so-called history gives a garbled statement and an untruthful narration of the Chinese massacre.  He charges that the scruff and scum of the city rose on the excuse that American peace officers had been fired on by the Chinese and one of them killed while attempting to execute a warrant on a Chinaman and that no one was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-2b">Compiler of voluminous histories of our Pacific Coast states, Mexico and Central America; collector of the material in the great Bancroft Library, University of California.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>For a few days preceding the twenty-fourth of October, 1871, there had been some small disturbances in the Chinese quarter.  Several arrests had been made, but the trouble was purely local among the Chinese themselves.  There were two factions among the Chinese and they quarreled.  Each faction had in its employ a certain class of white men, sycophants that sought to make money out of the Orientals.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Yo Hing was an enterprising and prominent Chinaman at the head of one of the factions.  He was a fine fellow, had a large vegetable garden on the southwestern side of the city, a store in Chinatown and was already quite a capitalist.  A. J. King, an attorney known as "Judge" King, was Yo Hing's lawyer.</P>
166.sgm:<P>On the twenty-third of October one Ah Choy was arrested by Emil Harris, acting constable in the court of W. H. Gray,<ANCHOR ID="n17-3a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-3a">Judge Wilson Hugh Gray, who came to California from Kentucky in 1852, following his brother, Franklin Gray, a prominent early property owner in San Francisco, who came in 1849.  Judge Gray was much respected by the Chinese and on the night of the massacre a number took refuge, both men and women, in the cellar of his home located in a vineyard where the Lankershim Hotel now stands, at Broadway and Seventh Street.  Among those who thus escaped the wrath of the mob was Yo Hing.  For years afterward, until the Judge's death, he and his family were the recipients of costly silks, porcelains and teas from China every New Year, left at the house anonymously so as not to cause him embarrassment in his judicial position.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>"How much?" asked the Judge.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Seben t'ousan' dollah," responded the merchant.  The Court looked surprised and asked him where he kept the seven thousand dollars.  He answered frankly that he kept it in a trunk in the rear of his store.  At this point King, attorney for Yo Hing, who had caused Choy's arrest in the quarrel between the factions, suggested that Constable Harris should go over with him, King, to verify the Chinaman's statement.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Returning, the investigators reported that it was true that there was a large sum of money in the trunk in the back room of the Chinatown store.  Whereupon Sam Yung, the merchant friend of Ah Choy, was accepted as a surety and Choy was set at liberty temporarily.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This all occurred in the forenoon of the twenty-fourth.  In the afternoon a complaint was sworn out, or pretended to be sworn out, against Sam Yung, charging him with some sort of an offense against the peace.  What the charge was does not appear on the record.  Now, strangely, this warrant was not placed in the hands of Constable Harris, whose regular duty it should have been to serve it, but was entrusted to a man named Thompson.  This Thompson is the "officer" Bancroft says was killed while attempting to serve a warrant of arrest on a Chinaman in Negro Alley.  As a matter of fact Thompson was not an officer and had no warrant.  He was accompanied by a gambler that was connected with the police department.  No return on the warrant was ever made because before he could make the arrest Thompson was killed and the terrible riot followed.  Afterward a Chinaman that was present at the shooting of Thompson made a statement to the following effect:</P>
166.sgm:<P>That Thompson and his police friend came to Sam Yung's store and told him they had came to arrest him.  Sam Yung objected to leaving the store unprotected and apparently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>This was about four o'clock in the afternoon and in less than half an hour a surging mass of humanity surrounded Chinatown and filled Los Angeles Street and the Plaza, bent on the destruction of every Chinese resident.  Contemporary writers say that it was the underworld part of our population that took advantage of the situation to start indiscriminate killing and pillaging.  But they do not state that the police force of the city furnished the leaders of the mob; that the Chief of Police of Los Angeles stationed his policemen and the deputies he had mustered in for the occasion, at all strategic point with orders to shoot to death any Chinese that might "stick a head out or attempt escape from the besieged buildings"; nor that one of the leading members of the City Council participated in the slaughter.  But all these were facts developed at the Coroner's inquest.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Prominent merchants in the vicinity dealt out rope to be used for hanging Chinamen and on the following day citizens, including policemen, publicly displayed their booty from Chinatown and boasted of the rewards of their valor.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The leading local newspaper of the day, <HI REND="italics">The Los Angeles Star</HI>
166.sgm:, edited by one George Washington Barter, printed a two page report of the "great victory."  During the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>On the morning of the twenty-fifth of October the heroes of the night before paraded the streets, received acclaim and displayed their booty.  A great deal of money had been stolen that night in Chinatown, a great deal of jewelry had been taken from the persons of the Chinese, most of whom were defenseless.  The town waxed rich over this victory.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But before the following nightfall a cloud began to settle over these high-spirited fellows.  Honest men, men with a sense of right and wrong, who had slept through the night of horror in the suburbs, on the ranches and in near-by settlements, hearing of the tragedy began to gather in knots on the street corners and in public buildings denouncing the outrage and the men in power who had been involved.  It was apparent that a counter move was imminent, that the turn of the tide had come and that it was going to sweep out with it as wreckage the political forces that had so long debauched the ancient and honorable Pueblo.  The heroes of the night began to slink away from the daylight.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It is only fair to state that the sheriff of the county did make a futile attempt to stop the massacre but he was tossed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:aside like a feather in a whirlwind.  The next day he paraded through the streets a little Chinaman he claimed to have saved from hanging and by relating the harrowing circumstances to the groups of decent citizens wherever he found them gathered, did some good in arousing shame over the affair.  Emil Harris, before referred to as constable in Justice Gray's court, also attempted to do something to stay the fury of <HI REND="italics">The Star's</HI>
166.sgm:<P>When the sun set on the twenty-fifth of October the reaction had started in definitely.  The decent members of the community assembled in a mighty protest meeting, after attending the Coroner's inquest.  I was present at that inquest.  It was a peculiar fact that every one summoned as a witness was a person that had participated in the affair on the side of the attackers.  There were but a few examined that volunteered their testimony who were not of the active mob.  Among these was Gen. John M. Baldwin, afterward City Engineer of Los Angeles.  He was ill in bed when the riot started but along toward evening he got up and came down to the scene of the tumult.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Baldwin said: "I went down Commercial Street to Los Angeles Street and turned toward Chinatown.  As I passed Mr. Hicks' store he was dealing out rope and others were hanging Chinamen to the high spring-seats of a big wagon that stood in front of the store.  I protested and attempted to argue with the executioners, but I might as well have spoken to a cyclone."</P>
166.sgm:<P>There was a second newspaper published in Los Angeles at the time, <HI REND="italics">The Los Angeles News.  The Star</HI>
166.sgm: hastened its issue in order to get all its glorious news to the public ahead of its rival.  When the other paper did appear it spoke in forceful terms against the barbarism and inhumanity of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:massacre, and finding public sentiment taking the views expressed by <HI REND="italics">The News</HI>
166.sgm: the more hasty sheet began to modify its previous statements.  <HI REND="italics">The Star</HI>
166.sgm: discovered that it had made certain mistakes; that its "General" was an assassin, that its heroes were murderers, that its patriot army was composed of thieves and cut-throats.  But <HI REND="italics">The Star</HI>
166.sgm:<P>I have since searched everywhere trying to find a copy of this paper containing its account of the victory of the patriots over the heathens, but without success.  That issue has disappeared, perhaps burned to destroy its awful testimony to the shame of a community.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The subsequent Grand Jury found many indictments based on the massacre but somehow or other all of them were against poor Mexicans without influence, and a lone Irishman, a shoemaker.  The merchants that furnished the rope with which to hang the Chinamen were not indicted.  The policemen that participated in the massacre were not molested.  The councilman, proved at the Coroner's inquest to have been a participant, was not interfered with in his legislative capacity.</P>
166.sgm:<P>There is no doubt that all those indicted were guilty.  But there were so many others, persons of position and influence, that had boasted of their guilt while the affair was yet hot, left unmentioned by the law, that the indictments became a matter of jest.  To heighten this effect those brought into court were tried before a real estate agent who, by some hook or crook, had been appointed by the Governor to fill a vacancy on the bench.  Some of the accused were never brought to trial at all, but those tried were convicted of manslaughter and got, I believe, ten year sentences.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But--two very astute practitioners, the Colonels James <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>It was estimated that about forty thousand dollars was taken during the sack of Chinatown.  For this the Chinese never received any redress except the convictions above described.  Twenty-one Chinese were hanged.  The number shot down could never be definitely ascertained because bodies and wounded were concealed by their countrymen.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I have gone into this matter at some length as a horrible example of mob law and as the climax of the turbulent record of the first thirty years of American rule in the City of the Angels.  And I do not intend that the "smoothing out" the affair got by writers of the time shall be perpetuated as the truth.  If Justice W. H. Gray issued a warrant upon complaint, which his record failed to show that he did, why was not the warrant given to the court's then acting constable, Emil Harris, who had acted in all the other Chinatown cases recently brought before that court?  The fact is, no such warrant was ever issued by Justice Gray, who was an able and an honest man.  Thompson (who pretended to serve the warrant), and his confrere, becoming aware of so much money in Sam Yung's store, went there for the purpose of stealing that money.  The Chinaman suspected what they had come for and refused to be robbed.  Result, the Great Chinese Massacre of 1871.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Yo Hing, the Chinaman who caused the arrest of his fellow-countryman, Ah Choy, and thereby inadvertently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0060" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Lynching of Lachenais for the killing of Jacob Bell, Los Angeles, 1870.  Most of the crowd has dispersed, leaving the victim hanging from the cross-bar of the corral gate (center of picture).</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0061" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>First house on the site of the present city of Pasadena.  Built in the 1830's by Jose&acute; Pe&acute;rez on the Rancho San Pascual.  It still stands, in renovated form, on the slope below the Hotel Raymond.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"What's that?" inquired the American in an agitated voice, for he was considerably shaken by the ordeal.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why, you have failed to have me state that I was killed in the City of Los Angeles, County of Los Angeles, State of California."</P>
166.sgm:<P>When this technical oversight was remedied Yo Hing signed the statement and died.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Now a word about the lynching of Lachenais by a Methodist mob.  This was an affair referred to in Judge Sepu&acute;lveda's charge to the Grand Jury concerning the bringing of indictments against the perpetrators of the anti-Chinese riot.  Lachenais was a Frenchman married to a Spanish Californian wife of considerable wealth, and he was a fellow of some influence in the community.  He was a man really feared by a considerable element and he had a knack for killing that went all-too-long unchecked.  But finally even his own countrymen and fellow-Latins became dangerously aroused against him by an unforgivable <HI REND="italics">faux pas</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>An important French citizen had died and Lachenais and another Frenchman were appointed to sit up with the corpse.  While engaged in this act of piety they disputed over a matter of French politics, probably concerning Louis Napoleon and the Maximilian usurpation in Mexico which was then a live piece of news.  "One word led to another," as the reporters say, with the final result that Lachenais killed his fellow mourner and left his body lying across the principal corpse, or what we might term the legitimate corpse.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Such indignation was aroused by this show of bad manners that Lachenais took flight for the first time in his career and lay low in Lower California until the double funeral was a record of the past and the affair had blown over.  Then he came back and settled himself on the bounty of his rich wife.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Way out in the southern part of town, near what is now called Agricultural Park,<ANCHOR ID="n17-3b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-3b">Now Exposition Park, site of the County Museum and the Coliseum.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>This was about two o'clock in the afternoon and at four o'clock I dropped in, on my way home, at John Schumacher's.<ANCHOR ID="n17-4a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-4a">John Schumacher, a native of Wu&die;rttemberg, came to Los Angeles as a soldier in Stevenson's New York Volunteers and afterwards conducted a grocery and bar on the west side of Spring Street just north of First where the old Schumacher Block stands (1930).  Over his bar was sold the first lager beer dispensed in Los Angeles and he was the inventor of the famous drink of those times, <HI REND="italics">Peach and Honey</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Why," he replied, "that bull-headed Frenchman has killed Jacob Bell."</P>
166.sgm:<P>John Schumacher's agitation was heightened by the fact that he was in partnership with Jacob Bell in a fine building they had recently erected at the southeast corner of Commercial and Los Angeles Streets, known as the White House.<ANCHOR ID="n17-5">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-5">This building is still standing (1930).  In the days of the illstarred Harper municipal re&acute;gime, in the early 1900's, when Los Angeles was still a "wide open" town, the famous White House was owned by a city councilman and was a red light resort.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>At the inquest next day it was established that Lachenais and Bell had fought.  A pistol lay beside Bell's body when found and Lachenais maintained that Bell fired first.</P>
166.sgm:<P>During the day a mass meeting of citizens was called and I, being a friend of Jacob Bell and bearing the same family name, was invited to attend.  I declined because as bad as was the administration of law in Los Angeles I preferred to bide a better day than to indorse mob action.  The meeting was held in Arcadia Hall, at the southwest corner of Arcadia and Los Angeles Streets,<ANCHOR ID="n17-4b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-4b">The Arcadia Block, first two-story brick building in the city, erected by Abel Stearns in 1858.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>It was claimed that the real estate agent that shortly thereafer was made a judge was the prime mover in organizing the hanging party.  He was a pillar of the Methodist <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Now, I knew that Methodist pastor and always thought him a pretty good fellow.  I frequently attended his services and liked his Christian discourses.  But what a state of affairs, when a minister of the gospel descends from his pulpit to become himself a law-breaker and murderer in an alleged vindication of decency!  There is no doubt that the fellow Lachenais deserved hanging but there was a doubt that he deserved hanging for the death of Jacob Bell.  At least he was entitled to a hearing before a legal tribunal, but he was given no hearing at all, even by the mob, after the Coroner's inquest.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0062" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Andre&acute;s Pico</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 18</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Leonis the Basque, King of Calabasas</HI>
166.sgm:<P>THE Kingdom of Calabasas<ANCHOR ID="n18-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-1a">Calabasas is familiar to present-day motorists going north from Hollywood via Ventura Boulevard and the Coast Highway.  In early American days it was famed as a tough place and the region was the scene of numerous stage coach hold-ups.  Now a favorite region for moving picture "locations," and rapidly being brought within the zone of urban development.  The old settlement and stage station of Calabasas lie just beyond the new Studio City, an extension of the motion picture settlement of North Hollywood.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>For Calabasas succeeded to the martial fame of El Monte as a region of tough customers.  At least it duplicated the Monte's notoriety as a danger spot and on a much wider scale, mile for mile.  It has been estimated that a murder marks each freehold in and around El Monte.  And undoubtedly each squatter's claim and each patented freehold in the Kingdom of Calabasas is saturated with human blood.  Should future farmers ply the subsoil plow thereabouts they ought to turn up human bones in astonishing numbers.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Calabasas once had a considerable population but the inhabitants killed each other off so steadily that a human face is a rarity now anywhere off the main road, and if glimpsed is usually peering from behind a great oak tree or over a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>While the remaining male Calabasans are spying on each other and the stranger, the females supply the family larders by hook and by crook and also by raising poultry.  Along about Thanksgiving and Christmas time it was no uncommon sight to see one of these wild hillmen herding a flock of turkeys to market in Los Angeles, one of the few occasions on which they emerged to mingle with the outside world.  But preious little of the proceeds of the turkey marketing ever got back to the trusting women that had toiled all year to raise the birds and guard them from the animals of prey that infested the region, for the money was blown in at the cantinas and the sporting houses, and if the mountaineer survived to return home at all it was usually with empty pockets and a worse disposition than ever.</P>
166.sgm:<P>A squatter war raged throughout this region for thirty years or more until the name Calabasas--which signifies in Spanish pumpkins or squashes, certainly a mild designation--became a synonym for all that is ruffianly, lawless and associated with sudden death.  The king of this kingdom for years was one Michel (or Miguel as the Spanish-speaking population knew it) Leonis, the Big Basque.  This Leonis, known to the natives as El Basquo Grande,<ANCHOR ID="n18-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: started the land war in about 1870.  El Basquo Grande had been born a French subject, just over the line from Spain in the Pyrenees, and in the early '50s had been a captain of <HI REND="italics">contrabandistas</HI>
166.sgm: or smugglers.  Things were made so hot in the Pyrenees for Leonis by both French and Spanish customs officers that he migrated to America and settled in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n18-1b">A local term.  The Spanish word for Basque is <HI REND="italics">Vascongado</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Still, the Big Basque was in a way a great man.  He was of indomitable will, industry and perseverence, was a great business manager and became rich.  When he was killed in 1889 he left a half million dollars, the most of which was inherited by the lawyers.</P>
166.sgm:<P>He first became a sheep herder in the San Fernando Valley.  About 1869 he married a half-Indian woman at the head of the valley whose father was owner of Rancho Escorpio&acute;n.  Once married Leonis calmly squatted down on the old father's land, took the management of the property into his own hands and gradually possessed himself of all the cattle, horses and sheep of the rancho, thus laying the foundation of his future wealth.</P>
166.sgm:<P>El Rancho Escorpio&acute;n bounds the Calabasas country on the north and as Leonis's herds grew he extended his dominion southward into the vales and meadows of that delectable land.  It was practically all government land and the Big Basque simply appropriated it to the use of his flocks and herds without legal formalities.  By 1875 or '76 his sheep numbered not less than thirty thousand while his horses and horned cattle ran into the thousands of head.  By this time he dominated the whole country south of the Ex-Mission San Fernando grant, west of El Encino and north of El Malibu, a really vast domain.</P>
166.sgm:<P>All this government land was of course tempting to the new American settlers coming into California and they in their innocence supposed they could squat on it as well as could any one else.  Leonis disposed of the first installment of squatters in short order: he would get criminal complaints filed against them on some charge or other, they would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>With his numerous Mexican and Indian retainers the Big Basque could place in the field an armed following that made him equal in power to some of the feudal barons of the Middle Ages.  He was liberal in feeing his lawyers and in spending money on the elections and he dominated most of the courts.  He ruled his country with rawhide, rifle, revolver and bribery.  He was a tyrant pure and simple.  No Mexican or Indian in the region dared oppose his slightest wish; if one did dare he was soon missing from his family circle.</P>
166.sgm:<P>About 1875 there appeared in the Calabasas region an American named Banks, an ex-Union solider, a harumscarum, dashing, devil-may-care fellow.  He liked the country and determined to settle in it.  Instead of retreating before the threats of the Big Basque he gathered around him a set of Americans who, like himself, wanted land and besides liked adventure--a venturesome, brave bunch, many of them discharged Federal soldiers.</P>
166.sgm:<P>With Banks as its head this band marched into the Kingdom of Calabasas, picked out the most likely locations and each member, according to his choice, pitched his tent or built his cabin.  All were sworn to brave the wrath of King Michel to the end.</P>
166.sgm:<P>There were about thirty in this Banks party.  Leonis could muster at an hour's notice a hundred armed men.  And he did.  The skirmishing began almost immediately.  The war was on and El Basquo Grande thought that he could run the whole group out in one attack with rawhide, rifle and revolver, scorning the slower method of complaint and arrest.  But so well organized was the little Banks army that when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>After this a bitter, relentless guerilla warfare was carried on by Leonis.  Scarcely a day passed that a settler was not killed from ambush; yet the Banks outfit held on and gradually gathered replacements from newly arrived land seekers.  All this time there was no interference by the legally constituted authorities; the opposing forces were left to fight it out between themselves.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This went on for about a year when finally Michel Leonis, desperate at the sight of his toppling scepter, decided on a final grand muster and attack.  The increasing number of settlers interfered with the pasturage of his great herds; he had to either diminish his stock, move elsewhere or drive the locaters out.  So the King of Calabasas sent a message to the untitled but unafraid Banks that on the coming Sunday he was going to sweep the range with every man that he and his wife's family could muster; that this was to be war without quarter and that the Banks ranch was the first point he intended to clean up.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But not a settler fled; every one stood his ground and Saturday night they all rallied on the Banks cabin and awaited the attack, after sending out scouts and throwing out pickets in approved military fashion.  It was toward the end of the afternoon of Sunday before the Leonis army attacked.  A real battle waged until dark.  After two hours, during which several of the settlers were killed outright and others wounded the army of the Big Basque was routed and left the field carrying its dead and wounded.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Michel Leonis was driven from the field but alas, fate designated him the victor nevertheless.  The brave Banks had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Despite representations made to the authorities no inquest was held over Banks's body, no judicial inquiry was organized, no arrests were made.  Yet the battle occurred within thirty miles of the Los Angeles County Courthouse.</P>
166.sgm:<P>How many were killed and wounded in the Leonis forces was never known exactly because they concealed their losses.  From one of the Banks men, Yarnell, a brother of the so-called "Apostle of Temperance," Jesse Yarnell, I obtained a description of the encounter which would indicate that the Leonis losses should have been considerable, or else Yarnell saw double.  It was Yarnell who called me to the side of the dying Banks and solicited my legal counsel on behalf of the settlers.  I asked Yarnell:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"How comes it that we don't hear of your having killed anybody up there in this great fight while on your side you lost so many good men?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>Yarnell answered: "Why, Major, I never killed so many men in one day in my life!  I had my old army Spencer, and at every one of sixteen shots I fired without moving from behind a tree, I saw a man drop.  I think we killed enough Indians and Greasers to load a railroad car."</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was six or seven years before settlers began to percolate into the Calabasas country again.  But the old contest was bound to be resumed because wherever the United States Government owns good lands the American people will possess them, whatever the odds.  You might as well attempt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The leaders of the next invasion were Sansome and Davis.  Elias Sansome was a squatter from way back.  He was as tall as Leonis of Calabasas, was born and reared in the mountains of West Virginia, and was the equal of Leonis in mulish illiteracy.  He had started West at an early date and had squatted all over Missouri, then all over California.  There wasn't a county from Del Norte to San Diego where he hadn't squatted a half dozen times; and as far as my knowledge goes old Elias Sansome has squatted on at least twenty pieces of public land in Ventura and Los Angeles countries.  Now over ninety years of age, he is still squatting.</P>
166.sgm:<P>His partner, Davis, was a novice squatter; a pupil of the veteran Squatter Sansome, and the two came over from Ventura County to squat on the range of the King of Calabasas.  But, my goodness, what a surprise was in store for Squatter Sansome!  Always hitherto such a successful squatter!  The Big Basque just hitched a team to a wagon, took along a dozen retainers, drove over to the Sansome-Davis camp, lassoed them both, tied them neck and heel, tumbled them into the wagon, kept them over night in his stronghold and the next day hauled them to Los Angeles.  There he went to his lawyers and got out complaints charging his prisoners with the crime of burglary in having burglariously entered upon the domain of the United States of America, at which crime they had been detected by the loyal public guardian, Michel Leonis.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The trussed-up prisoners were thrown into jail and I was called in, as an attorney, to defend them.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Can you imagine such a charge as the above being entered and entertained in any court in the United States of America?  Yet it was so entered and entertained.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Well, to continue to relate the unbelievable, one John Trafford was Justice of the Peace then and he conducted the examination into this strange charge of burglary.  He conducted this examination business for twenty-one days and the attorneys for the prosecution got more free whiskey, free lunches and season meal tickets during that period than they ever saw during the rest of their natural lives.  A saloon adjoined the courtroom.  Recess would be declared about six times each day and there would be a migration from the courtroom via the back door to the saloon.  El Basquo Grande dispensed coin all the time without stint.  It was a judicial bonanza and His Honor got so drunk he never got sober again until he died.</P>
166.sgm:<P>After the prosecution had rested we brought in sixteen of the most reputable and opulent Frenchmen and Basques of the county, all of whom, though in fear of their lives, testified to the evil character of Leonis.  All asserted that they would not believe him on oath.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Garnier, lordly owner of El Rancho Encino, when he had testified, was asked by the prosecution: "You are an enemy of Leonis, are you not, and that is the reason you are here to testify against him?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>Garnier replied: "Yes, I am his enemy, but I did not volunteer to come here; I am afraid of Leonis and am only forced to tell the truth under oath."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"What are you afraid he will do to you?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I fear he will burn my house and barns.  He burned my fields of wheat and barley one year."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Jean Goyeneche testified to the same effect as Garnier and related how the Big Basque had stolen one thousand sheep from him.  And so it went through the whole sixteen that were brave enough to tell what they knew about Michel Leonis.  The fact was brought out by some of the witnesses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:that some years before Leonis had engaged in a lawsuit with Jean Etchemende, and knowing that Etchemende possessed certain documentary evidence locked in his safe that would be of value to him, he, Leonis, broke into Etchemende's store in Los Angeles one night.  He was discovered removing the safe bodily.  In the chase that followed Leonis, carrying the safe on his shoulder, ran across a large open space between Negro Alley and Alameda Street, pitched the safe over a nine-foot adobe wall and sprang over after it.  In falling the safe burst open and Leonis possessed himself of the coveted papers and all of the money in the safe, said to have been thirteen hundred dollars.  He then pitched the safe into the great water canal, or <HI REND="italics">zanja madre</HI>
166.sgm: which flowed along the western border of Alameda Street and furnished the town with water.  Then he made his escape without particular hurry, having already far outdistanced his pursurers, even with an iron safe on his shoulder.  To give some idea of the giant strength of this Pyreneian smuggler, seven men were required to fish that safe out of the <HI REND="italics">zanja</HI>
166.sgm:<P>That's all that was done about it; they got the safe back into the store and let it go at that.  Leonis got away with the documents and the swag but was never prosecuted.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was a common thing for the Big Basque to go out on the range with a wagon, shoot down a thousand-pound steer, pick it up bodily and lay it in the wagon; and he would do this without greater effort than an ordinary man would put forth in handling a sack of grain.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The final outcome of the trial of Sansome and Davis, whom I defended through the twenty-one days above described, was their discharge.  I then immediately brought action on their behalves against Leonis for malicious prosecution and false imprisonment.  Fortunately, by the time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Sansome and Davis returned to their locations in Calabasas, others followed them and civilization began to press in again harder than ever on the harassed Basque.  He fought back but not with the savage confidence he had before exercised.  This time he waged war by driving his cattle onto and over the lands which the settlers were trying to cultivate.  He forced many of them out this way because they were as yet too poor to fence their lands adequately.  Finally a game young Californian, Meza, who had been made a victim of this trick, drove the Leonis cattle off to the four winds, whereupon Leonis, forgetting for the moment his recent reverses in the courts, resorted to his old method of getting his enemies thrown into jail.  He charged Meza with larceny of the cattle.  The courts now being out from under the Leonis influence Meza was discharged and the author of these lines once more went after El Basquo Grande with a damage suit on behalf of the falsely imprisoned Meza.  Again we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>By this time suits had cost the great man twenty thousand dollars, which had a noticeable tendency to modify his agressive barbarism.  At the same time the settlers were mightily encouraged and the Calabasas became a habitable country.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This brings us down to the middle '80s.  The tables are now completely turned.  It is the squatters that have become arrogant and somewhat savage.  El Basquo Grande scarcely dares to ride along the highway in front of settlers' locations but chooses the byways.  A leader of the settlers has risen up, by name Harvey Branscomb.  He is not averse to winning a reputation as a frontier fighter and he takes an occassional shot at the Big Basque just to show who is boss.  Leonis is afraid of his neighbors now.  His herds have diminished and he tries grain farming, but that is a dangerous business for a man with so many enemies for grain fields burn so easily.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Finally, in desperation over another damage suit with which he had been pestered, the shorn giant came to my office and begged <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
166.sgm:<P>This Michel Leonis had peculiar qualities aside from his savagery.  He claimed before his Mexican and Indian followers that he dealt in the occult.  They said he could disclose the future, unravel men's secrets, discover stolen property and foretell to a certainty rain or drought.  An <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>There were a hundred or more shearers engaged in shearing sheep in his pens when the foreman's watch was stolen from a vest left hanging on the limb of a tree.  Receiving his complaint, Leonis had all the men lined up and demanded that the thief forthwith bring the stolen watch to him.  There was no response.  "Very well," said Leonis, "I will now proceed to discover the thief and recover the watch."  He went from man to man holding his ear down near the mouth of each as he passed along the line.  But no man spoke.  This done he called for a burro.  Then he led the ass along the line of men, demanding that each whisper his innocence or confess his guilt into the donkey's ear.  After the passage of the line and the whispering in the donkey's tall listener, Leonis led the animal aside and pretended to commune with it for a long while.  Then Leonis returned to the uneasy sheep shearers and said: "Yes, one of you confessed to the burro and now I know the thief.  But the principal object is to recover the watch.  I will not expose the thief if he will return the stolen article.  I now hang the vest back on the tree and to-morrow morning I expect to find the watch reposing in the pocket.  If not I shall hang the thief on this same tree until dead."  The gang was dismissed to supper.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The next morning the watch was in the vest pocket.</P>
166.sgm:<P>After the death of Leonis, Harvey Branscomb constituted himself a sort of successor to the Basque as a ruler of the settlers and more bloody trouble blighted the region; quarrels and killings revived and made it a dread country again.  Then drought fell upon it, and quietude.  Now it is waiting, in all its beauty, for a revival, and may its future history be peaceful and productive as befits such a naturally glorious region.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 19</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Spit in the Mouth of Hell</HI>
166.sgm:<P>I HAD often wondered over the possible origin of a perfectly graded but utterly abandoned turnpike road extending in a straight line from where the Soledad Pass<ANCHOR ID="n19-1">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: opens onto the Mojave Desert to Elizabeth Lake, fifteen miles to the westward.  In places the drifting sands of the desert have obliterated the mysterious road but where the earth is hard and flinty and the sand cannot take hold it shows as plainly as it did over one hundred years ago when it was cut, filled, graded and smoothed by the Devil himself.  For <HI REND="italics">El Demonio</HI>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-1">Through which the Southern Pacific Railroad now passes from Los Angeles into the Antelope Valley, a westward extension of the Mojave Desert.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>In explanation of how I came by this astonishing revelation let me say that some years ago I edited "The Spiritual Conquest of California" from the manuscript of Don Guillermo Embustero y Mentiroso, and the publication of this document was the cause of much interest among historians and students of Catholic history.  The manuscript was placed in my hands by a lineal descendant of Don Guillermo Embustero now residing in Los Angeles and known as a man of scientific distinction.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Considerably later I was in conversation with this Don Guillermo of the fourth generation and referred to the <HI REND="italics">milagro</HI>
166.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n19-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: of the desert's border.  He surprised me with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-2">Miracle.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>I replied in the negative and he promised to bring me the document.  He fulfilled his promise, and here is a translation from the old Spaniard's yellow pages:</P>
166.sgm:<P>In the year of Our Lord 1780 and in the tenth month thereof the Holy Father and President of all the Missions of California, the illustrious and Most Reverend Juni&acute;pero Serra, with an escort of dragoons under command of the valiant veteran, the Sergeant Arguello, engaged in an expedition of discovery to the great valleys of the north.  On his return journey he was pursued, attacked, harassed and finally surrounded by hostile savages and besieged at a point that was afterward called La Laguna del Diablo.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The beleaguered Spaniards were reduced to most direful distress but happily an Indian neophyte escaped through the besiegers with a message to the commandant of the guard at San Gabrie&acute;l.  The latter at once despatched the valorous Lieutenant Pico with every soldier that could be spared to the rescue of the Christians.  The brave lieutenant and his <HI REND="italics">mando</HI>
166.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n19-3">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: pushed forward in hot haste but most unfortunately became lost in <HI REND="italics">las soledades</HI>
166.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n19-4">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-3">Command.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-4">The solitudes.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The horses were utterly worn out, the troopers famished for food and drink.  The sun had set and darkness was casting its mantle of charity over the despairing warriors when the frantic Pico raised his eyes, crossed himself desperately and said, "Ay, <HI REND="italics">Diablo</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"'Tis a bargain!"  A demon stood before the desperate Pico.  But the lieutenant of San Gabrie&acute;l Arca&acute;ngel feared nor man nor devil nor chimera dire.  He always backed up his word, and with a gesture of accord he replied promptly to the demon, "'Tis a bargain!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>Immediately a legion of demons bearing picks, spades, axes, hammers, prying bars and torches appeared upon the scene.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Go!" said the Devil (for the first demon proved to be no other than El Demonio himself) and the division with axes cleared a way through the brush.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Go!" said the Devil, and the ground was leveled and graded by the pick and spade demons.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Go!" said the Devil, and the demons with iron bars pried out the great rocks.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Go!" said the Devil, and the huge stones were beaten into pebbles by the hammer division.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Go!" said the Devil, and the spade demons returned to work, spreading the pebbles and pounding them down into a hard surface as the torch bearers reddened the encroaching night with their flares.  Magically a broad finished road began to stretch straight into the west.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Ready?" asked the Devil, bowing to the undaunted Lieutenant Pico.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Ready!" responded the brave lieutenant.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Go!" said the Devil.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Forward Fours!  Trot!  Gallop!  Charge!" shouted the officer, driving the spurs into his horse's flanks and dashing along at the swift heels of the Devil whose whole legion of demons swarmed on ahead creating the road with demoniac magic as they flew along, the brush cutters followed by the imps with picks, who were followed by the spade wielders and they by the division with iron bars and they by the rock pounders and they by the smoothers, the whole fiendish horde led by the bearers of sulphurous torches.  On rushed the infernal road builders with terrible swiftness and on followed the Chief Demon with the Lieutenant Pico at his heels and at his heels in turn the loyal troopers whose valor and discipline would have caused them to follow their commander into the fires of Hell.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Level that hill!" shouted the Devil as Pico, thinking to evade his bargain at this point, now that he knew the right direction, circled away around a hill that stood in the way.  The demon legion leveled the hill in a twinkling and suddenly there seemed to be no other way except straight through the cut they had made.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"A bargain's a bargain!" laughed the Devil.  "Follow the road, my good lieutenant!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>On they dashed with the road still unrolling magically before them.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"A fraction of a league more and my contract is fulfilled," coolly remarked the Devil to the breathless Pico.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I shall arrive at the end of the road but you shall not!" cried Pico, making a thrust at the Devil with his Knights Templars sword.  The point of the sword proved harmless to the Arch Fiend and the latter grinned defiantly.  But he paled as his flaming eyes rested on the hilt of that sword.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Quickly the lieutenant, who was both learned and pious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The Devil trembled in mute despair.  The legion of demon road builders ceased their labors and shrank into the shadows as they gazed on the symbol of Redemption glittering in the sulphurous glare of their hellish torches.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Out of the way!" commanded the brave Christian Spaniard.  Holding the hilt of his Knights Templars sword always towards the Arch Fiend the officer ordered his troops forward while he himself covered their rear.  The demoniac road crew broke and fled, the Devil with them.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Spurring forward to rejoin his command Pico found his soldiers already at the camp of the intrenched Sergeant Arguello and the precious Father Serra.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Turning a triumphant look back into the valley where he had escaped the infernal horde the incomparable Pico saw the demons huddled around El Demonio himself in the light of flames that licked out from a fearsome hole in the ground.  Suddenly volumes of black and yellow and red smoke arose and enveloped the demons in a horrific pall.  A livid lake of fire spread out all about them and down through its crimson surface the infernal band sank from sight.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In the morning when the happy Christians, rescued and rescuers alike, started their return to San Gabrie&acute;l Arca&acute;ngel they found that the lake of fire had been replaced by a lake of beautiful pure water, whereupon Father Serra, with a beatific expression, fell on his knees and gave thanks to God for this His gracious sign of safety to unworthy sinners.</P>
166.sgm:<P>When I submitted my translation of his ancestor's manuscript concerning the origin of Elizabeth Lake to Don Guillermo of the fourth generation, he said:</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"That is fine.  You did your part well; but the inference made by the original chronicler at the end of his legend, that the Divine Spirit overcame the influence of the Arch Fiend at that spot by turning the lake of brimstone into a lake of pure water, though a beautiful idea, does not conform to the subsequent history of Elizabeth Lake.  By all reports that is a horrible, haunted body of water.  It is a mouth of Hell.  For the century since the birth of that <HI REND="italics">laguna</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"I had never realized that," I replied in amazement.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why," returned my informant, amazed in his turn at my ignorance, "it is all common knowledge among the natives, at least common tradition among them.  And it is an actual fact that in the past no one could be found who would accept permanently a grant of that valley, despite its beauty and fertility, its succlent grasses, cool springs, purling brooks, shady groves.  And even when American squatters began to come into the country they soon gave up their desire to possess the region.  You may judge by this that there must have been something to the stories of its horrors, for the American squatter is hard to scare from good land.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I'll tell you about Don Pedro Carrillo's experience.  You of course know the Carrillo family, perhaps the most prominent of all the old line in California, the men all brave and the women all beautiful.  This Don Pedro was as brave as the Carrillo tradition, absolutely free from superstition, a disbeliever in things supernatural.  In the middle 1830's, when in the full prime of his manhood, he procured a grant of many square leagues of land radiating from the Laguna <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"He was in his new home just three months.  He fled one night, his pathway lighted by the conflagration that consumed his house, stables, corrals and storehouses.  He abandoned his grant, and all he will give as the reason if you ask him is, `It was because of the hell raised in and around Laguna del Diablo.  Conditions there made me prematurely old.'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"From that time the beautiful lake and surrounding lands remained a desolation until the invasion of American squatters in 1855.  They thought they had found a paradise but they didn't stay long.  It is the only instance in the history of California where the squatter yielded up a good location without a fight.  They withdrew in a body, saying simply, `The whole infernal region is haunted.'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Afterwards Chico Lo&acute;pez yielded to the lure of the valley and settled down on a piece of the property out of sight of the <HI REND="italics">laguna</HI>
166.sgm:.  Another Chico--Chico Va&acute;squez, brother of the notorious bandit of the '70's, Tibu&acute;rcio Va&acute;squez--was mayordomo del camp or boss of the ranges for Lo&acute;pez.  Once I was a guest at the Lo&acute;pez house when the mayordomo dashed up on horseback in great excitement and exclaimed, `For the love of God, <HI REND="italics">mi&acute; patro&acute;n</HI>
166.sgm:, go with me to the lake.  Surely all the demons of song and story have come to the surface.  Such an uproar and lashing of waters one never heard or saw before!'  The excited mayordomo crossed himself piously and offered up an <HI REND="italics">oracio&acute;n</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"We went immediately to the lake, the two Chicos and I.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"It was mid-day and the sun shone benignly on the mirror-like surface of the <HI REND="italics">laguna</HI>
166.sgm:, which was as calm as a sleeping infant.  Everything was delightfully quiet except the temper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"`What do you mean, mayordomo,' he began, `in bringing us on this two-league gallop just to satisfy your idea of a joke?'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The poor mayordomo was trying to find words to cover his confusion when, as terrifying as a peal of thunder from a clear sky, a great whistling, hissing, screaming roar issued from a growth of tules growing on the margin of the lake and so near to us that we could smell the nauseating, fetid breath of the monster emitting the sound.  So sickening was the foul effluvia that we reeled in our saddles and no doubt would have been overcome had not our horses dashed away with us in fright.<ANCHOR ID="n19-5">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-5">It is a fact that until recent years Elizabeth Lake gave off a foul odor at certain seasons.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>"After bringing our horses under control we turned and gazed back at the lake.  From our position we could discern the outlines of a huge monster, larger than the greatest whale, with enormous bat-like wings.  At times it would flap these wings as though attempting to rise from the mud where it lay.  It would roar and splash the water with what appeared to be great flippers or legs.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Night came on and we returned to the ranch house and tried to eat supper, but found no relish in it.  Neither could we sleep that night.  In the morning all the vaqueros were mustered and armed with rifle, revolver and reata.  With them we returned to the lake.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The monster had disappeared.  Whether it had flown away or sunk beneath the mud we could not determine but the foul odor, in diminished strength, was still evident.  We returned to the house for breakfast to speculate over this astounding <HI REND="italics">milagro</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Said Chico Lo&acute;pez: `That water is certainly well named Laguna del Diablo, but how do you suppose its evil history originated?  Is that slimy water spit in the mouth of Hell, or what?'</P>
166.sgm:<P>"`I can probably arrive at the historical facts in a very short time,' said I, remembering the yellowed old manuscripts still lying unread in the treasure chest of my ancestor, Embustero y Mentiroso.  `That forebear of mine wrote down everything of importance in the beginnings of California.'  And my surmise proved correct for you have before you now the document bearing on the origin of the lake you Americans call Elizabeth."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Continuing the story of the two Chicos and their horrific monster, Don Guillermo the Fourth said that for a while nothing more of it was seen, but the Lo&acute;pez horses and cattle began to disappear.  First the owner thought grizzly bears were responsible, but this opinion proved unreasonable in view of the volume of devastation among the herds.  Finally one night a great uproar was heard in a corral and by the time the vaqueros reached the spot ten mares with their foals were missing.  And against the night sky was seen an incredible griffon winging away, heavy with feasting.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This was in 1883, the year in which Don Chico Lo&acute;pez sold out cheap to El Basquo Grande and left the accursed spot.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In October, 1886, one of our Los Angeles papers published the following, which was undoubtedly as true as anything else contained in this chapter:</P>
166.sgm:<P>A python, or at least a monster of some kind most terrible to behold, has made its appearance at Elizabeth Lake and has caused more terror and excitement among the people of that locality than did the great earthquake of 1855 which rent the earth asunder, leaving the present appearance of an old canal or the grade of a cyclopean <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The python or whatever it is, is not alone because there are many cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, chickens and people at the laguna now off which the python delights to feed.  We don't know positively that the monster has yet gorged itself on <HI REND="italics">corpus humanus</HI>
166.sgm:, but it is attested that at night he comes out of the water, visits the corrals and fills up with sheep and calves, a half-dozen at a time.  Upon one occasion the monstrosity tried the temper of a regular Texas long-horn steer, which made such a kick and bellowing as brought Don Felipe Rivera to the <HI REND="italics">locus in quo</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Don Felipe describes the monster as about fifteen varas (forty-four feet) long and as large as four elephants.  Large enough, indeed, to make a saddle horse for Gen. Brierly.  It had a head very much like a bulldog, and Don Felipe thinks it had six legs.  Of wings he is positive, which lie flat on the monster's back when not expanded.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Don Felipe Rivera, as his name indicates, is a don of the true Castilian blood who fears not hippogriffes, dragons nor devils, so he ran alongside the python as it floundered toward the lake and emptied his .44 caliber old-fashioned Colt into its side.  "The bullets striking the monster's side sounded just as if they were striking against a great iron kettle," said Don Felipe.  "One bullet bounced back and hit me and the next morning I picked up four that were as flat as coins.  This is all true, on the honor of an hidalgo."</P>
166.sgm:<P>We learn that Don Felipe has come to town at the instance of the terrified Laguneros to consult and adopt ways and means to capture the python.  The Sells Brothers have already sent an agent to the lake to report <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>This flying amphibious monster was seen several times from 1881 to 1886 and once El Basquo Grande, with his wellknown aversion to any rival in his domain, got after it as it betook itself to the lake.  Before he could come to grips the terrible Thing sank without leaving a trace, as had the Devil himself once upon a time at that very spot.  But not long thereafter it was seen emerging and flying away eastward.  Since then it has never been seen in its native valley because it was found and killed eight hundred miles from Lake Elizabeth, as is proved by the following article that appeared in <HI REND="italics">The Epitaph</HI>
166.sgm:<P>A winged monster resembling a huge alligator with an extremely elongated tail and an immense pair of wings was found on the desert between Whetstone and the Huachuca Mountains last Sunday by two ranchers as they returned home from the Huachucas.  The creature was evidently greatly exhausted by a long flight and when discovered was able to fly but a short distance at a time.  After the first shock of wild amazement had passed the two men, who were on horseback and armed with Winchester rifles, regained sufficient courage to pursue the monster and after an exciting chase of several miles succeeded in getting near enough to open fire and wound it.  The creature then turned on the men but owing to its exhausted condition they were able to keep out of its way and after a few well directed shots <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>They then proceeded to make an examination and found that it measured ninety-two feet in length and the greatest diameter was about fifty inches.  It had only two feet, situated a short distance in front of where the wings were joined to the body.  The beak, as near as they could judge, was about eight feet long, the jaws being thickly set with strong, sharp teeth.  The eyes were as large as dinner plates and protruded from the head.  Some difficulty was encountered in measuring the wings as they were partly folded under the body, but finally one was straightened out sufficiently to get a measurement of seventy-eight feet, making the total length from tip to tip about one hundred and sixty feet.  The wings are composed of a thick and nearly transparent membrane and are devoid of feathers or hair, as is the entire body.  The skin of the body was comparatively smooth and easily penetrated by a bullet.  The men cut off a small portion of the tip of one wing and took it home with them.  Last night one of them arrived in this city for supplies and to make preparations to skin the creature.  The hide will be sent to eminent scientists for examination.  The finders returned to the kill early this morning, accompanied by several prominent men who will endeavor to bring the strange creature to town before it is mutilated.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Commenting on the story in the Arizona paper, a Los Angeles paper in May, 1890, said:</P>
166.sgm:<P>Such a bird, reptile or monster was seen about three years ago by three Mexican rancheros living near Elizabeth Lake.  When first seen it was lashing itself about in the deep waters of the lake.  The men took it for a bunch of cattle that had mired down and approached to see if they could save them when a winged creature of huge proportions rose into the air and flew <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>It may prove, however, that in the desert fastnesses some of the prehistoric reptiles, supposed to have become extinct ages ago, still exist.  The traditions of the Indians would seem to point to such a possibility.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Thus runs the legend of Elizabeth Lake and I beg the reader to believe every line of this chapter because it is founded on the word of an Embustero y Mentiroso, hidalgo of the old blood, and others of equal credibility.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0064" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Francisco Rico</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 20</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A Malay Yankee and the Great Peralta Land Fraud</HI>
166.sgm:<P>IN a former book of reminiscences I painted a word picture of a man whom I believed to be perhaps the most remarkable that ever came to California and I called him simply Bill.  That Bill was Major William P. Reynolds, son of a Massachusetts sea captain and a Malay or Malay-Chinese mother, and the man primarily responsible for the first raising of the American flag over Monterey.  He was born in Manila, raised in Honolulu, educated in Boston and settled in California.</P>
166.sgm:<P>We first hear of Major Reynolds' father from Commodore Wilkes, U.S.N.,<ANCHOR ID="n20-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-1a">Lieutenant (later Commodore) Wilkes, U.S.N., sailed in the flagship <HI REND="italics">Vincennes</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Major Reynolds arrived at Monterey, California, some years before the outbreak of the war with Mexico.  He came as mate of the Hawaiian brig <HI REND="italics">Eama</HI>
166.sgm:<P>In 1849 Reynolds returned to Los Angeles and became the original proprietor, the founder, of the historic old Bella Union Hotel.<ANCHOR ID="n20-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-1b">The city's first hotel and the capitol building of California during Governor Pico's final term of office.  Los Angeles was named officially the capital of California by the Mexican Congress in 1835, but governors prior to Pico had refused to move the seat of government from Monterey except for a six months' period during the administration of Micheltorena, when the latter took up his official residence in the south.  Other governors, however, spent much time personally in the southern end of the province, notably Echeandi&acute;a, who preferred San Diego as a place of residence.  The old hotel was remodeled somewhat in the '60's and renamed the St. Charles.  It still stands, on the east side of Main Street, diagonally across from the Federal building.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>One day during the height of the Denis Kearney campaign in San Francisco against the Chinese in California,<ANCHOR ID="n20-2a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: when the union workingmen were being inflamed against coolie labor, a delegation of so-called workingmen called at Major Reynold's office in Los Angeles.  The Major was doing some work in Southern California at the time for the Surveyor General and maintained an office in the old Temple <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-2a">A campaign that culminated in the new state constitution of 1879 and the Chinese Exclusion Act.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>The Major and I were enjoying post-prandial cigars and some gossip in his office when in walked the delegation, requesting a contribution to the "Workingmen's Fund," to be used to bring about legislation for the expulsion of the Chinese from California.  Reynolds listened respectfully to their speeches and when they had finished this was the answer he shot back at them:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"A fine set of statesmen you are, picking me out to insult me.  You come here asking me to put up money to enable you fellows to commit outrages on my countrymen!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>The leader of the delegation asked in astonishment: "What do you mean by your countrymen?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"What do I mean?  Don't you know that I am a Chinaman?  I am not only a Chinaman, sir, I am a Mandarin!  At my father's house such miserable trash as you are would not be permitted to pick up the crumbs that fall from his table.  Get out of here and don't assume to mix with Chinese gentlemen."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Utterly flabbergasted by the Major's lordly manner the Kearney delegation withdrew in sullen confusion.  As the door closed Reynolds laughed and turned to me with the question: "Say, Bell, do I <HI REND="italics">really</HI>
166.sgm:<P>William Toler, who died comparatively recently in Oakland, is the man credited in history with having first raised the American flag over California.  He was a midshipman in the U.S. Navy in 1846 and when Commodore Sloat took possession of California July 7 of that year in the name of the United States, Midshipman Toler is recorded as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>But four years previously William P. Reynolds had caused the American flag to be raised over the same building.  In 1842 Commodore Ap Catesby Jones, U.S.N., on board a man-of-war lying in Monterey Bay, was visited by Reynolds, who was then mate of some sailing craft in the Pacific trade.  Bill Reynolds gave the Commodore a whole lot of romance, the gist of which was that England was about to seize California; that he, Bill Reynolds, had discovered through intricate diplomatic intrigue that a British man-of-war was expected at Monterey any moment to take possession to forestall the possibility of American ownership in the future.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Whereupon Commodore Jones, U.S.N., not to be out-flanked by any maneuvers of John Bull, landed marines, hoisted the American flag over the government building and formally took possession of California in the name of the United States of America.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Twenty-four hours thereafter despatches arrived which convinced Commodore Jones that he had been the victim of a romantic imagination, no war having been declared yet by Mexico and no British ships appearing in the offing with shotted cannon; so he hauled down Old Glory, apologized to the indignant and haughty representatives of Mexico, up-anchored and sailed away in humble disgust.<ANCHOR ID="n20-2b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-2b">General Micheltorena, newly appointed governor of California, was at Los Angeles on his way north from Mexico when the first American seizure of Monterey took place.  He immediately issued a furious proclamation to his "cholo" army, calling upon his soldiers to shed the last drop of their blood, and pledging the last drop of his own, in defense of the sacred soil of the province.  But he cooled off when he received a letter of regret from Commodore Jones and an offer to meet and talk things over.  The meeting was arranged.  Commodore Jones brought his fleet into San Pedro and made his way up to the Pueblo with his staff, observing the pomp and panoply appropriate to the momentous occasion.  Micheltorena demanded of the American commander a donation of fifty uniforms, a full set of band instruments and fifteen thousand dollars cash as a salve to Mexico's wounded feelings.  The Commodore shrugged his shoulders and said that was a matter the two governments would have to settle through other channels; all he could do was to offer an apology for his mistake.  After a proper amount of bluster and pouting the Governor of California said all right, let's have a grand ball and get some fun out of the affair, somehow, or words to that effect; and forthwith the grandest <HI REND="italics">baile</HI>
166.sgm: in the history of the south was held in the <HI REND="italics">palacio</HI>
166.sgm: of Don Abel Stearns, at which Micheltorena appeared, tradition says, in his imported American light wagon drawn by his own soldiers in harness.  During the evening Commodore Jones, U.S.N., offered suitable apologies to General Micheltorena, <HI REND="italics">jefe politico y militar de California</HI>
166.sgm:<P>As a matter of fact Reynolds was right, except that he was four years ahead of his time.  His keen mind foresaw the coming conflict with Mexico and the British desire to get in on the ground floor in California.  He was a patriotic American who didn't want to see his country out-jockeyed and figured that a sensational yarn was justified if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>In 1876 I suggested to Major Reynolds that he should turn to writing romances.  "Romancing is your forte, Bill," said I.  "Eugene Sue, Victor Hugo, Captain Marryat, Washington Irving couldn't hold a candle to you if you once got started.  Write a romance and make your fame and fortune."</P>
166.sgm:<P>So Bill, in the course of four years, wrote a novel; and could you believe it, this romantic tale which Bill Reynolds wrote was the cause of the launching of a tremendous land fraud case that cost the United States Government tens of thousands of dollars and years of litigation to quash!</P>
166.sgm:<P>The plot of the novel centered around the Casa Grande, a famous and monumental ruin, like the ruin of some great baronial stronghold, in Arizona.  There have been many differences of opinion among scientists and historians as to its possible origin, but it is generally believed to have come down from times prehistoric.  Bill Reynolds, however, in his capacity of author brought there in the early days of the Spanish conquest of the Southwest a great Spanish nobleman, a conquistador, called him Miguel Peralta and designated him Baron of Arizona.  Then he mixed up a lot of highfalutin' Spanish names as followers of the Baron, had them all get together in the wilderness where the Baron had taken up a tremendous land grant, a domain of a hundred square leagues or so, and had them all build a baronial stronghold.  The ruins to-day known as Casa Grande<ANCHOR ID="n20-3">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-3">In the valley of the Gila River near Florence, Ariz.  These ruins were probably seen by Coronado's expedition in search of the Seven Cities of Ci&acute;bola in 1540, but their discovery is first definitely recorded by Padre Kino, the Jesuit missionary, in 1694.  In 1892 Congress set aside the area covered by the ruins as a public monument.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>The author went on to relate the contests the Peraltaites had with the savages, the final conquest of sword and cross over paganism, the desperate conflicts with jealous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>In 1881, after my first book of reminiscences had appeared and Reynolds was chiding me for some of the yarns I told on him in that work, though I did not disclose his full name then, I asked him: "When are you going to publish your Casa Grande romance?  That one about the Peralta barony?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why," said Bill, "the truth is it's lost."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"You <HI REND="italics">lost</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Well," began Bill, "you remember that old school teacher from Downey named Reavis?  He was employed by you once as a writer on your paper <HI REND="italics">The New Constitution</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Now let us outline as briefly as possible the long and intricate string of events that resulted from the "loss" of the Reynolds manuscript.  Reavis, the itinerant school teacher and writer, read it thoroughly, got a great idea from it, drew Bill Jenkins into his scheme, the latter probably not realizing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Reavis had married a half-breed squaw away up in Mendocino County, California.  In the case which he prepared with much legal skill he set her up as the sole surviving direct heir of Miguel Peralta, original proprietor of the hundred square leagues in Arizona; the sole surviving descendant of the union of the Baron of Arizona and the native woman whom he, the Baron, was supposed to have espoused.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Reavis sought powerful help in financing his case, and he got it.  He drew into his scheme the Southern Pacific Company, Robert G. Ingersoll, Roscoe Conkling, Collis P. Huntington, William S. Wood, Reuben H. Lloyd, John E. Mackay, Ed S. Stokes, Charles Crocker and others.  The Southern Pacific Company, according to Reavis' confession, advanced some two hundred thousand dollars and all together there must have been half a million dollars put up to cheat the United States out of one hundred leagues of government land in Arizona and New Mexico.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Reavis was finally convicted of fraud and sent to the penitentiary in New Mexico.  He wrote a confession in which he claims that the government, though it spent a hundred thousand dollars in defending its interests against his conspiracy, never hit upon the true facts of how he built his case.  He tells how he conceived and executed the fraud, how he supposedly met and married an <HI REND="italics">Andaluza</HI>
166.sgm: (girl of Andaluci&acute;a), parentage unknown, and built up for her a mythical lineage proving that she was the descendant of one of the noblest families of Spain, sole heir to the Peralta grant in Arizona.  For it is a fact that the Peralta name is prominent in the early annals of California and the Southwest.  He tells how he took his wife to Spain, where they were received into the noblest families and where he searched the ancient archives, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The <HI REND="italics">Andaluza</HI>
166.sgm:<P>I have before me as I write several great volumes of transcripts and briefs all neatly printed and published, supporting the claim of James Addison Peralta Reavis to that Arizona land, through marriage and through consanguinity with his wife's family.  They contain a great array of pictures of Spanish grandees, supposed forebears of himself and wife.  One of these is of a Peralta I knew in Los Angeles in early times.  He is all rigged up and pictured as the heir should-have-been immediately preceding Sen&tilde;ora de Reavis, but who died, alas, unconscious of his noble heritage.  When I knew the little scrub he was a hanger-on of the gambling tables.  A squatty, black--well, I might as well say greaser.  He was not a genteel Mexican nor was he a Spaniard, nor an Indian nor a negro, but all mixed together.  He was known around the Pueblo simply by the name "El Espan&tilde;ol," why, I don't know, for, as I have intimated, he was anything but pure bred.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I have omitted to state that a great deal of money was realized by the combination pushing the claim, before the de&acute;nouement, through the process of quitclaiming lands in Arizona.  For instance, the city of Ph&oelig;nix and other prosperous communities came within the limits of the "Peralta Barony."  The Reavis claim looked so plausible that the holders of lots and ranches within the disputed territory, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>And all of this originated in the romantic brain of my old friend Bill--Major William P. Reynolds--whom I urged to pen a romance!</P>
166.sgm:<P>This Reavis served out his time in the New Mexico penitentiary and has since been admitted to the bar.  If he lives long enough perhaps he will be elevated to the bench.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Before leaving the subject of the Great Peralta Fraud I want to say that I do not believe that Bill Jenkins, who was an old Ranger comrade of mine in the days of Murrieta, knowingly assisted Reavis in framing a fraud.  I think that Reavis imposed on the "Baron of Casteca" as he did on some much more prominent men.</P>
166.sgm:<P>A word more about the illustrious Major Reynolds.  He had a very dark complexion.  As I have said, his mother was a Malay and his father an American, and he was even darker than ordinary half-castes.  He was sensitive about this and said that he had been as white as any man until he had been artificially colored, and this is the story he told of how he had become colored:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"When I was twenty-five years old I was supercargo of a trading vessel in the South Seas.  A hurricane struck us and piled the ship up on a reef where she was torn to pieces.  Myself and three or four others escaped to the island and were made prisoners by the natives, who proceeded in detail to barbecue my companions, leaving me for the last.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Can you imagine a man's feelings when he knows he is going to be spitted and roasted?  When he knows that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:is going to have his bones gnawed by a horde of hungry cannibals?  Well, I knew I was in for an <HI REND="italics">auto da fe&acute;</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"One day the chiefs gathered around me and held a great pow-wow.  The other white men they had simply knocked in the head, one by one, when they needed a feast, and roasted them without any pow-wowing at all.  I began to wonder why they were giving me such marked attention; but after a while I was made to understand that I was not to be cannibalized.  No, sir, the women had taken a great shine to me.  And the men allowed that I ought to make a pretty good native and that if they were successful in smoking me to the proper color of a native they would not only spare my life but make me a chief.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Well, sir, I was put into a smoke house, much like a house for smoking hams, and subjected to the smoking process for three weeks.  During that time I was taken out several times, washed off and examined to see if the coloring had set into my skin, and each time I was shoved back in again as underdone.  They gave me plenty of food and water during the process but I tell you it was a tough proposition.  When they got through with me I was as dark as any cannibal on the island and not just on the surface, either."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why, Bill," I laughed, "then you must be the original smoked Yankee."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir, smoked Yankee and no mistake about it.  I was three years on that island and raised myself from a mere village chief to Lord Paramount.  I was King."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"How did you get away?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Well, there came a vessel that landed men for the purpose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Wives?  How many?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, just as many as I wanted.  I think that day I had thirty."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"And you finally managed your escape?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Yes, I arranged with the captain that the last time the boat shoved off from the shore, after it was out a ways in the water I would make a rush and swim to it.  So I did; I outran my wives to the water's edge and made my getaway."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Did you ever try to whiten yourself, to get the smoke off?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Smoke <HI REND="italics">off</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Major Reynolds died at Los Angeles in 1889, thoroughly lamented.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0065" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Abel Stearns</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 21</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">The Law West of the Pecos</HI>
166.sgm:<P>THE reputation that California had for "killers" in the early American days has hardly been exaggerated.  Texas probably led us in that respect, but we certainly had our share and they kept on drifting through clear down to the days of the big Southern California boom in the '80's.  This boom, too, brought hordes of men that were fugitives from justice elsewhere.  They sank their identity under assumed names in the excitement of the times, manipulated real estate or preyed on the speculators in other financial ways and sometimes became well-to-do, staid citizens ultimately, handing down family names that did not belong to them.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The "killers" of the early days were a queer study.  Mighty good fellows to meet, many of them, without fearsome aspect or manner.  We had a class of men in and around Los Angeles, and in fact scattered up and down California, largely from Mississippi, Arkansas and Texas that were jolly good fellows, honorable in their every day dealings with those that met them in the same spirit and wonderful campfire companions.  But each one of them was rather proud of having killed his man, or men.  They like to reminisce over these affairs.  I have sat down in camp with these men and listened to their after-supper conversation as they smoked, and often it would run like this:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Have you heard of Bill Magee recently?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes.  The last I heard of him he killed Jake Sipes up on the Trinity, then went over into the Pitt River country, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"I knew Bill Magee's father in Arkansas," volunteered some one else.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Yeah.  He killed old man Hunter.  Hunter had killed one of Magee's sons-in-law.  Now let's see--who was it killed old Magee?  Some one did, but I can't seem to remember who."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Say," broke in some one else, "do you remember Sam Brown?  Sam killed a couple of men down in Texas before he came to California.  How many has he killed here, anybody know?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, three or four so far as I know.  Who was that last man he killed in Texas and what was it about?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>Here the conversation would become involved in the intricacies of why somebody killed somebody else and the individual opinions concerning the merits of the fatal dispute.</P>
166.sgm:<P>When I was in Texas after the close of the War of the Rebellion in '65 I commanded a cavalry patrol for a while on the border.  One night I stayed at the house of old Johnny Sansome out on Mason Creek.  That was way up toward the old Dutch town of Fredericksburg.  Johnny Sansome was a pre-historic Texan.  He had fought at the Battle of San Jacinto during the war for the independence of Texas from Mexico.  His son John had been a captain in the First Federal Texas Cavalry during the recent war, serving in Louisiana and Texas, was a fellow scout with me during the campaigns in that region, and that is why I had stopped at the Sansome ranch, because John had just come home from the wars.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Old man Sansome was a great story-teller.  Among other things he told me about Three-Legged Willey.  This fellow was a politician in the Texas Republic, an Alabaman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Willey had several opponents for Congressman and at a mass meeting at Victoria they all made speeches.  Those who preceded Willey on the platform all took the old-fashioned course of righteously defending their past lives, denouncing as slanderous the rumors being spread abroad by their enemies that they had killed men in their home states and were in Texas as fugitives.  Then each went on to explain how justified the killing had been.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At last it came Three-Legged Willey's turn to talk and when he got up he ridiculed the other candidates for all the oratory they had put forth to refute such unimportant accusations as having killed only one man apiece.  Then he launched forth thus:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I killed a man in North Carolina and then crossed over into Tennessee.  I killed a man there.  Then I went to Alabama and there I laid low my third man.  This occasioned my visiting Mississippi, where I killed the fourth.  Only after this fourth, gentlemen, did I consider myself sufficiently practiced to claim the honor of becoming a citizen of Texas.  And now I ask you, the voters, to consider if I am not four to one more distinguished than any one of my opponents, each one of whom seems to be ashamed of his trigger-finger."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I hardly need to tell you," finished Johnny Sansome, "that Three-Legged Willey was overwhelmingly elected."</P>
166.sgm:<P>In the '50's there was quite a conspicuous character in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Down to the time of Nelson's death people were still marveling over the miraculous recovery he made from the old wound that had been apparently killing him.  Here is the sequel, or the explanation or whatever you want to call it, concerning this miracle: When I was on the Texas frontier in April, '66, I visited the ranch of a Mr. Woodward away out on the Leona near its junction with the Rio Grande.  In our conversations around the fire in the evenings we talked of various Texans that had gone to California and Mr. Woodward asked me if I had ever known William Nelson.  I said that indeed I did and was present at the time he was shot.  Then Woodward told me a very strange story concerning William Nelson.  He said that along in '52 or '53 a murder was committed in San Antonio.  McMullen, the victim, was found in his room with his throat cut, weltering in blood.  He was a single man, a small-fry Shylock, a title fiend, so nobody grieved about his death and very little attempt was made by the authorities to solve it.  The only clew discovered was the bloody imprint of a man's hand on the wall near the door, and it was remarked that it must have been made by a very tall man groping his way in the dark from the scene of the murder.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"On the last day of the year 1859," continued Woodward, "I was in San Antonio from my ranch.  Meeting some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Strange to say, the letter writer stated, Nelson showed improvement from the time of his confession and in two or three months was walking the streets a well man.  The letter writer then explained that the matter now lay on his own conscience and knowing that Nelson intended visiting San Antonio, where he apparently dared to go now that his mind was free, he, the letter writer, felt that he ought to report the confession to the Texas authorities, though he did not know whether the confession was just the vagary of a sick man or whether there really had been committed a murder in San Antonio on a victim named McMullen.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"I told the sheriff what I had learned of Nelson's departure for New Orleans, but apparently no serious effort <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>I was of course very much interested in Woodward's story and on returning to Los Angeles I questioned Nelson for the details of his marvelous recovery, without telling him of what Woodward had confided to me.  Nelson's explanation was this: That during his long confinement he had experienced many spiritual manifestations and had been led to study the teachings of the spiritualists.  That a spirit had finally told him that there was a gun wad in his wound that the doctors had overlooked, told him just where it was lodged and said that he must have it removed in order to get well.  He had called in a doctor, who refused to believe it or to probe.  "Then," said he, "I got a piece of wire, bent a hook on the end of it and knowing exactly where the wad was situated I drove the wire into the old would and pulled out the wad.  Whereupon I got well."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Now, Nelson's statement could not have been true because he had been on his bed for three years and that gun wad could hardly have persisted in there for that length of time without disintegrating, nor could the man have survived the probing of an old wound in such a crude manner.  The only theory that I can accept is that he did kill McMullen, that in his low condition following his own wounding the crime preyed upon his mind to the extent that it kept him from getting well, that the fact of mind over matter was proven in his case in that his confession so relieved his mind that he was able to build up a faith in his recovery that actually resulted in a cure.</P>
166.sgm:<P>There is a character mentioned in my first book of reminiscences that deserves further notice.  This is Roy Bean, he who kept the Headquarters Saloon at San Gabrie&acute;l Mission in the early '50's and who in later years became famous as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>When Roy was sixteen or seventeen his brother Sam took him to Chihuahua and put him in his store as clerk.  A Mexican desperado came into the store and attempted to terrorize the place.  Roy ordered him out.  With drawn knife the desperado advanced on the American youth, who kept warning him to stand back.  The Mexican kept coming on, leering and wielding his knife, until within three or four feet of the boy.  Then that boy put a bullet square between the bully's eyes.</P>
166.sgm:<P>A Mexican mob gathered, bent on lynching Roy Bean.  His brother and a few other Americans in the place rallied to his defense until they were able to slip him out of town.  He was taken to Jesu&acute;s Mari&acute;a, a large mining town in the northeast corner of Sonora, but the news followed him there and a second attempt was made on his life by a mob.  Again Americans rallied to his support and a conflict ensued with the final result that the Americans in Jesu&acute;s Mari&acute;a were driven out.  Their stores were sacked and they barely escaped with their lives.  They finally found refuge in California after a terrible journey.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Among those pillaged and driven out was William B. T. Sanford, who became a prominent merchant in Los Angeles and was a member of the old Ranger company during the bandit reign of terror.  He lost his life in the explosion of the tug <HI REND="italics">Ida Hancock</HI>
166.sgm: in San Pedro Bay.<ANCHOR ID="n21-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-1a">Sanford Avenue is named after him.  The boilers of the <HI REND="italics">Ada Hancock</HI>
166.sgm: of the Banning fleet exploded April 27, 1863, while the tug was conveying passengers to the steamer <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
166.sgm:, and twenty-six lives were lost.  Among the dead was Albert Sidney Johnston, Jr., son of the commander of the Department of the Pacific, U.S.A., at the outbreak of the Civil War, afterwards a Confederate general killed at Shiloh.  Gold to the amount of forty thousand dollars is said to have been lost on the muddy bottom of the upper bay, off Wilmington, ten thousand of it in a Wells, Fargo shipment and thirty thousand from the person of Fred E. Kerlin who was leaving California with his hard-won gains.  Another victim was Captain Thomas W. Seeley of the <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
166.sgm:<P>On arriving in California from Sonora Roy Bean first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>One day he had a famous adventure that came very nearly ending much too seriously.  There was a gay, rollicking son of Gaul in San Diego who prided himself on his horsemanship and his ability to shoot from the saddle with a revolver.  He bantered Roy for a match, shooting at a target from horseback at full charge.  Roy promptly accepted the challenge, on the condition that each should be the target for the other.  This was probably just a counter-banter on the part of Roy, but the Frenchman accepted the condition and the two heroes prepared for the desperate encounter.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was common practice for Californians and Mexicans to fight duels for the fun of it with lances or with the swords they usually carried on their saddles beneath one thigh; but a revolver duel on horseback was a new sport and when the news got out that such an encounter was to take place in the principal street of Old Town there was great excitement near and far.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Harathzy was sheriff of San Diego County at the time--the well-known Count Harathzy who later became the great vineyardist and winemaker of Sonoma and also served as superintendent of the U.S. Mint at San Francisco.  In connection with the mention of the Count it may not be amiss to recall here that when Harathzy was called upon to settle his account with the government at the end of his term in the mint, he was forty thousand dollars short.  He claimed the deficiency was due to a defect in the chimney flues of the mint which carried off the smoke from the molten gold; in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>To return to San Diego: Sheriff Harathzy pretended to regard the approaching duel between Roy Bean and the French gallant as a sort of joke and took no steps to prevent it.  Indeed, it would have been quite an impolitic act to call it off because news of the impending show brought rancheros swarming to town, the rancheros patronized the stores and cantinas and there ensued lively prosperity, for the moment at least.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Seconds were appointed and the sheriff did exercise his authority by insisting that the firing be so arranged as not to endanger--at least, not much--the innocent bystanders.  If either of the combatants shot an onlooker the law would step in with a penalty; and on this basis the fight took place.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The two heroes maneuvered their spirited horses, each jockeying for a position that would enable him to fire in the direction of the open plain where the crowd was not permitted to gather.  I am indebted for a particular description of this combat to the Hon. Guadalupe Estudillo, an honored resident of Los Angeles at the present time and formerly Treasurer of the State of California.<ANCHOR ID="n21-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: He was living in San Diego then and says it was surely a most exciting affair.  Each one strove desperately to get to windward of the other, as a sailor would say, because the one to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-1b">The fine old adobe home that is shown to visitors in Old Town, San Diego, as "Ramona's Marriage Place," was built by the Estudillo family about 1820.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Finally Roy plugged the Frenchman, and as the latter reeled in the saddle Roy plugged his horse to boot.  Down went rider and mount in a heap in the middle of the street and young America was proclaimed winner.  The sen&tilde;oritas cheered him as boldly as they dared from the sidelines and for the moment he was the hero triumphant.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Frenchman was not killed, only sorely wounded; but now that the show was over and could no longer be construed as a valuable attraction the sheriff decided to vindicate the law and threw Roy into jail.  Count Harathzy had just built a new jail, not of adobe but of a new mixture called concrete which was a seven day wonder to the natives, and he was proud of it.  It was fine to have a hero to incarcerate in there because it certainly made the new edifice a center of attraction.  The sen&tilde;oritas no longer hung back in maidenly modesty to cheer only faintly for their idol, but they stormed the jail with baskets and shawls filled with flowers, cold chicken, tamales, enchiladas, dulces, wines and cigars and crowded for position at the gratings to hand their gifts through to their Adonis.  Those warm-hearted little California beauties just went wild over the handsome fellow; for, as a matter of fact, Roy Bean was as handsome as an Adonis.  His complexion was as fair and rosy as a girl's.  Hair black and silky, figure above medium height and perfect.  In manners a Chesterfieldian gallant.</P>
166.sgm:<P>No jail could hold a hero whom so many beautiful women were passionately determined should be freed.  Not even Count Harathzy's new concrete jail, the first in Southern California.  Concealed among the fragrant petals of the bouquets, or maybe imbedded in the succulent hearts of tamales, were tools of escape.  Roy cut his way through that miraculous concrete in less than no time.  True gallant that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>In 1857 or '58 Roy went to Pin&tilde;os Altos, New Mexico, and thenceforth was lost to California although his fame was destined to shine forth in years to come more brilliantly even than it had among his admiring circle at the "Headquarters" in San Gabrie&acute;l or among his sportive cronies in the Pueblo de los Angeles.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At the outbreak of hostilities between the North and the South, when the Texans invaded New Mexico and were so roughly handled by General Canby, Roy Bean assisted in organizing a company of Confederate sympathizers that called themselves the Free Rovers.  Others called them the Forty Thieves.  After the failure of the Texan campaign in New Mexico the Forty Thieves disbanded and Roy engaged in running cotton into Mexico and bringing out supplies to San Antonio for the Confederate army.  He was well paid, apparently, and made a lot of money that way.  When I was in the service at San Antonio in '65 Roy was there with his wagon train.  He was still freighting to Mexico, in business for himself.</P>
166.sgm:<P>When the Southern Pacific Railroad was built from El Paso to San Antonio a certain station near the Ri&acute;o Grande, which is the border line between the United States and Mexico, was named Langtry.  It is just west of the Ri&acute;o Pecos.  Roy Bean opened a saloon there and called it "The Jersey Lily."  This saloon and its keeper made the station of Langtry, Texas, almost as famous as the Jersey Lily herself, the beautiful Lily Langtry.  It was here that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"But I am the only man that could ever make anything out of the office," said Justice Bean to me when he was laughing about that political slipup, "and in a little while the Ri&acute;o Grande judge came up to propose to me that I buy him out.  He brought his commission along with him, his docket and all his papers, and dickered with me.  He was sick of the job.  So I gave him a demijohn of whiskey, two bear skins and a pet coon for the right, title, honor and emoluments of the office.  I've run the thing ever since without opposition."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Roy's court is held in the bar-room of "The Jersey Lily" saloon.  The bar, or counter, is the judicial bench, and whiskey barrels set up on end in front of it constitute the legal bar.  The opposing lawyers, if there are any, use the heads of the barrels as desks.  From this courtroom in the desert have issued decisions that have carried the fame of Justice Bean the world 'round.  Judge Bean and Coroner Bean, for he also occupied the latter distinguished office.</P>
166.sgm:<P>While the railroad was under construction beyond Langtry a section boss killed a Chinese laborer.  He was arrested and brought before Judge Bean.  The boss was a popular man in that section and valuable to the railroad authorities so the latter exerted strong pressure on the court to get him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"They send me the Texas statutes, codes and so forth every year," Judge Bean once explained to me, "but I never read them.  All the law I want I take from the compiled laws of the State of California.  They are good enough for any state, they are good enough for anybody, they are good enough for me.  I administer the law upon the authority of that book and don't need any other."</P>
166.sgm:<P>After the testimony in the trial of the section boss was all in, which showed conclusively that the accused had murdered the Chinaman, the Court opened the compiled laws of the State of California, spread the volume before him with great ceremony and delivered this opinion:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The Court has been very patient in inquiring into this case.  It is true that the defendant shot the Chinaman and killed him.  It seems as if there ought to be some sort of punishment meted out, but there doesn't seem to be any provided for.  What they don't know about Chinamen in California they don't know anywheres, yet I've looked this book through and can't find any place where it is named as an offense for a white man to kill a Chinaman.  So far as the feelings of this Court goes it would be the greatest pleasure to hold the defendant for murder, but the situation is not the fault of this Court.  Therefore the judgment of the Court is that the defendant be discharged."</P>
166.sgm:<P>A case that came before "The Jersey Lily" bar, with the proprietor acting this time both as judge and coroner, was that of a man accidentally killed by one of the Southern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>A wiry cowpuncher rode in one day escorting a buxom prairie lass and applied to Judge Bean for a marriage license.  It was issued and the ceremony performed on the spot.  After paying over a liberal fee the cowboy and his bride dashed away into the wilds on their mustangs to enjoy the delights of matrimony.</P>
166.sgm:<P>About a year later the pair came back and complained to His Honor that they couldn't get along together and wanted a divorce.  The Judge told them that divorces were very expensive.  The cowpuncher thought he could stand a pretty good pull on his resources to get relief, so the Judge named his price, received it, pronounced the pair divorced and they rode away, each in a separate direction.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The judge of the District Court in El Paso had heard tales of queer decisions issuing from the Justice of the Peace at Langtry but paid no attention to them until he got wind of this divorce proceedings.  Then he thought he would go down and have a talk with the Langtry justice.  Said the District Judge to Justice of the Peace Bean over the bar--the social bar--of "The Jersey Lily": "Justice Bean, the question of separating a man and wife by divorce assumes a degree of gravity that precludes hasty treatment.  I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Why," answered Justice Bean, "I'm the only jurisdiction west of the Pecos--if I can't grant a married couple relief from each other who can?  And besides, I'd like to ask you this: When you commit an error in your court and it is brought to your attention, what do you do about it?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Do you mean to ask me, do I correct an error in some case that has been before my Court?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"That's what I mean, Judge."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why, certainly, if I commit an error I correct it if it is called to my attention in the proper way."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"All right, that's just what I did when I divorced that cowpuncher and his woman.  I had issued the license and I had married them.  They brought to my attention the fact that I had made an error in those matters and I corrected that error."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The District Judge allowed that Justice Bean had the better of the argument and it is to be presumed that the two judicial wiseacres thereupon turned their attentions exclusively to decisions concerning the choice of liquors.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I last heard of Roy Bean through an Associated Press despatch in a newspaper.  The despatch was dated Langtry, May 27, 1901, and read as follows:</P>
166.sgm:<P>Judge Roy Bean, notorious throughout western Texas and many times the subject of magazine articles, also known as "The Law West of the Pecos," again distinguished himself last night by going through a Pullman car while the westbound Southern Pacific train was stopping at Langtry and, with a .45-caliber Colt in his hand, collecting from an eastern tourist thirty-five cents due for a bottle of beer.  The tourist had bought the beer at the Judge's saloon but had rushed off without paying for it.  Going through the car Bean peered into each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>As the Judge left the car he turned in the aisle and said to the frightened passengers, "If you don't know what kind of hombre I am, I'll tell you.  I'm the law west of the Pecos."  The passengers thought it was a holdup.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At the time of this "holdup" Roy Bean was over seventy years old.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In the days of Joaqui&acute;n Murrieta Roy was a Ranger along with the author, and after he left San Gabrie&acute;l it was my pleasure to correspond with him from time to time.  The last letter I received from him was on May 21, 1898.  Since then, as I have said, my only news of him was through that Associated Press despatch from Langtry.</P>
166.sgm:<P>They were queer letters that Justice Bean and I used to exchange between us.  His were short and laconical, but from me he expected a full line of gossip about the doings of the old-time families he used to know when he enlivened Southern California by his presence; all the personal news of the Pueblo and the Mission.  For some reason I kept a copy of one newsy letter I sent him from Los Angeles, and as it contains an account of a court decision very much akin to some of the decisions that issued from the mouth of "The Law West of the Pecos," I will venture to quote from it:</P>
166.sgm:<P>In this letter, Judge, I am only mentioning those prominent persons that I know you will remember.  The Nietos, for instance, you knew them all.  Don Diego was a way up caballero, in your time and long before, but unfortunately he got sent to the penitentiary.  Not for the usual thing, cattle stealing, but because he stabbed a man and the man laid down and died.  Don Diego plead guilty to manslaughter, made a statement <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>That pelado had about given up trying to insult the caballero when suddenly he had an idea and burst out with, "Yes, a fine caballero you pretend to be, but you are a bigger scoundrel than Bill el Molacho!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"That," said Don Diego in his plea to the Court, "was more than any gentleman could stand.  I killed him."</P>
166.sgm:<P>The judge agreed with Don Diego and would have let him go scot-free except that some sort of a reform movement was on just then and he had to give him a minimum sentence of three years.  The caballero was soon afterward pardoned by the governor and allowed to go free.</P>
166.sgm:<P>You remember El Molacho, don't you, Roy?  I won't call him by his family name even in this letter because he is now a man of prominence among us.  Of course you know my horror of hurting the feelings of any of our leading families!</P>
166.sgm:<P>You will recollect that we had Bill el Molacho and we had Bill el Tuerto.  Both Americans.  El Molacho's reputation was such that--well, you see what a caballero like Don Diego Nieto thought of it.  El Tuerto left New Mexico ahead of the law after some transaction in mules, landed in Los Angeles and became a banker.  That is, he opened a monte bank.  Then he got to be a kind of constable, then got into the legislature and afterward came very near being elected judge in Los <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>You remember Jack King and the other King boys?  They killed Bob Carlisle in a free fight in the old Bella Union.  Jack married Miss Laura Evertson.  You knew the Evertsons out at San Gabrie&acute;l.  I saw you there at the time the Ranger company came out to take the bandit trail.  It was during the heated time of the Murrieta re&acute;gime and a raiding party had entered the Evertson house over across the arroyo from your "Headquarters."  The head of the house was away and the only male person about the place when it was attacked was little Evert, about sixteen years old.  Do you remember how that boy took down a pair of old percussion-lock holster pistols that belonged to Doctor Sturgis, who lived there, and turned loose on those thieves?  The first bandit had Mrs. Evertson by the throat, about to kill her.  Evert actually drove those fellows away and when the alarm was given the Rangers took the trail, you and I among them.  Great days, those were.  Evert was a fine fellow, died at San Francisco eight or ten years ago.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was Evert's sister Jack King married, and they still reside here.  Jack is the oldest lawyer at the Los Angeles bar unless it is myself.  He reared a most talented family of boys and girls.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Roy, you wouldn't believe it, but it is almost a continuous town now from San Gabrie&acute;l to Los Angeles and from Los Angeles to Wilmington and San Pedro.  You know Phineas Banning, afterwards General Banning, founder of Wilmington.  A great man, a great citizen.  He is dead and his sons have succeeded--</P>
166.sgm:<P>So ran the letters that used to keep Justice of the Peace Bean, "The Law West of the Pecos," in touch with his early cronies of La Misio&acute;n San Gabrie&acute;l Arca&acute;ngel and El Pueblo de Nuestra Sen&tilde;ora la Reina de los Angeles while he was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Recalling the San Gabrie&acute;l days of the Bean brothers ("Los Frijoles," the natives used to call them) prompts me to mention the terrific treasure trove excitement that broke out only a few years ago in the region of the old Mission.  There have been many stories circulated of buried treasure left by the padres when they were forced out of their establishments but they are mostly great exaggerations.  There never was very much money in California before the Americans came and what existed was kept in violent circulation on the gambling table or in betting on horse races.  Rawhides, tallow and soap formed the currency of the country.  Yankee ships came to the coast to trade manufactured articles from the American east coast for the products of the slaughtered cattle and it was in this way that the Californians of the Mexican era bought practically all their imported goods.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But the individual rancheros were only small fry in this trade in comparison with the Franciscan padres, up to the time of the secularization of the Missions.  In spite of all the laws that were aimed at keeping the friars from trading with foreign ships their vast herds were the principal source of supply for the Boston hide droghers that came round the Horn and that have been made familiar to the American reader by Richard Henry Dana's "Two Years Before the Mast."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Now, this old hide, tallow and soap trade has a direct bearing on the mining excitement that had all the tenderfoot Americans in the San Gabrie&acute;l Valley by the ears not so long ago.  When, in the 1830's, the Mexican Congress passed an act secularizing the Missions and it became apparent that the padres must soon relinquish all temporal control of their vast properties to civil administrators appointed by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:government, which would thenceforth pocket all income from the properties, the padres got busy in an attempt to save what they could before the storm struck.  They organized great <HI REND="italics">matanzas</HI>
166.sgm:, or slaughters, and killed their cattle by the thousands in order to reduce them to a marketable product that might be disposed of to trading ships before the government took hold.  Each rawhide represented at least a dollar; the tallow from each animal was worth so much according to the degree of fatness of the creature, and other parts were boiled down for soap.  The tallow was ordinarily packed in rawhide bags called <HI REND="italics">cero&acute;nes</HI>
166.sgm:, containing a weight called <HI REND="italics">arroba</HI>
166.sgm:<P>But the wholesale slaughter now undertaken made it impossible to find room for the product in this way so they dug immense pits, poured in the molten tallow or soap, covered it with a surface of earth when it had cooled, and so had it safely in cold storage for an indefinite period.  The intention of the priest was to mine out the product, sack it and sell it to the ships as they arrived.  However, the agents of the Mexican government fell upon the Missions like a horde of hungry wolves before the buried treasure could be shipped out, and it was overlooked in the scramble for the assets that still appeared on the surface.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The San Gabrie&acute;l Valley settled up pretty fast with Americans in the '80's, once the boom got under way, and cellars and wells were dug here, there and yonder.  One day a settler rushed into Los Angeles with the information that he had discovered a new resource in the soil of California that promised to yield inestimable wealth.  He had found a soap mine--a great vein of natural soap.  He brought samples with him and the Chamber of Commerce experts pronounced it veritable soap, no mistake.  What a sensation it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Right on the heels of this excitement came more sensational mining news.  A citizen had located a mine of pure tallow!  Why brag about this being a land of milk and honey when tallow and soap deposits were so much more valuable?  Well, well, this certainly was a country worth coming to.  Dig, burrow, gouge and tunnel was the order of the day until the vicinity of old San Gabrie&acute;l Arca&acute;ngel was pitted deep and pitted wide.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Then, wonder of wonders, a great aerolite was reported to have fallen west of Los Angeles during a rainstorm.  This fact could be proven by viewing the steam it sent up through the soft moist earth as it cooled down there, nobody knew how far beneath the surface.  Pure iron probably!  The scientific world of Los Angeles was agog.  Committees were sent out to locate the spot.  Yes, steam was issuing from beneath.  Some eminent professor was telegraphed for, from the Lick Observatory, I think.  They awaited his arrival before beginning to excavate, so that the great savant might be the first to feast his eyes on the marvel from the skies.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The professor arrived, the stage was set and the earth was opened.  The miners soon struck into a bulky mass, but it was soft and foul.  They dug up the remains of a big fat horse; an old family horse, as was afterwards learned, cherished by the Valdez family of the Rancho Rodeo de las Aguas<ANCHOR ID="n21-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: and interred out in the pasture just before the great rain storm.  Some one riding along to town during the storm had seen a flash from the skies that looked like a meteor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n21-2">The highly developed Beverly Hills district of to-day, home of movie stars.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0066" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Antonio Mari&acute;a Lugo</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>240</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 22</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Some Early Mayors</HI>
166.sgm:<P>STEPHEN C. FOSTER<ANCHOR ID="n22-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-1a">The first American alcalde of Los Angeles and referred to in a previous note as official interpreter for the army during the American military occupation of the city.  He was appointed by Colonel Mason, military governor of California, in 1848.  Abel Stearns served with him in the office of <HI REND="italics">si&acute;ndico</HI>
166.sgm:<P>About the first thing this Maine Yankee did after arrival in the Pueblo with the army was to become a Mexican by marriage.  He married a rich widow, daughter of <HI REND="italics">el viejo</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The Lugo family was rich, numerous and influential and by marrying into the fold Foster acquired a power among the Californian-Mexican population that was almost unlimited.  In addition Foster was personally attractive, persuasive and educated--a graduate of Yale, I believe--and was a fine-looking, dashing fellow in those early years, wielding a greater influence for good or bad than any other twenty men, nay fifty men, in Los Angeles County.</P>
166.sgm:<P>A good man naturally was Stephen Foster, of kindly disposition, sensitive, personally honorable, but the wealth and influence which this adventurous young Yankee found thrust upon him, as it were, caused him to lose his head and his importance wrought his ruin.</P>
166.sgm:<P>His fatal mistake was made in the case of Dave Brown.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0067" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Stephen C. Foster.  First American alcalde of Los Angeles, later mayor and state senator.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0068" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Don Francisco Sepu&acute;lveda.  Alcalde of Los Angeles in 1825 and grantee of the Santa Monica and San Vicente ranchos.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0069" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Famous saddle and bridle of General Andre&acute;s Pico, valued, when he owned them, at $5,000.</P>
166.sgm:</ILLUS><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>241</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>One day in the summer of '54 Dave got on a drunk that ended in delirium tremens.  In this condition he met Pinkney Clifford, his most intimate friend.  He asked Pinkney for a loan of five dollars.  Observing Dave's condition Pinkney refused.  Whereupon Dave stabbed his chum to death.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Great excitement ensued.  A mob assembled.  Mayor Foster appeared on the scene and advised the mob to leave the murderer to the courts.  Good advice, but given with this proviso: "If the courts fail to hang him I will lay down my office and will lead you myself to hang him."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Dave Brown was tried, convicted and sentenced to be hanged.  A defense lawyer took an appeal to the Supreme Court on the ground that the evidence showed Brown to have been irresponsible at the time he killed Clifford.  The governor of the state granted the condemned man a respite until the appeal could be decided.</P>
166.sgm:<P>About the time Dave Brown killed Pinkney Clifford an hidalgo of Mission Vieja named Alvitre assassinated an American named Ellington, a citizen of El Monte.  When Alvitre was arrested he admitted his guilt and in explanation simply said: "I killed him because he was an American."  Alvitre was tried and convicted in the same court that had passed on Brown.  The caballero, after the fatalistic way of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>242</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:his kind, had no particular objection to handing, apparently, so there was no appeal entered in his case.  He was sentenced to be executed on the same date set in the case of Dave Brown.  When the day came Alvitre was hanged alone and Brown continued to live under the terms of his reprieve.<ANCHOR ID="n22-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-1b">As a matter of fact some appeal seems to have been taken on behalf of Alvitre for a stay of execution did arrive from the higher court, but almost a week too late!  (See <HI REND="italics">Pioneer Notes from the Diary of Judge Benjamin Hayes</HI>
166.sgm:<P>This made the Mexican population very mad.  They raised a public clamor, claiming that when a Mexican was convicted of crime he was always promptly punished but that an American in like circumstances always escaped punishment.  As a truthful historian I must confess that there was a good deal in this argument, because the American always had a better knowledge of the judicial ropes and was wise enough to hire lawyers who could do him the most good.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Mayor Foster responded to this clamor on the part of the natives, resigned his office, called a mass meeting and announced himself ready to make good his promise to enforce equal justice by hanging Dave Brown.  If one's sympathies are inclined off hand to approve this stand, let it be remembered that the convicted man was still under the protection of the Supreme Court of California.  Its decision on the appeal had not yet been handed down and Brown remained under sentence of death by legal execution.</P>
166.sgm:<P>On the day originally set for the double execution the sheriff of Los Angeles County hung Alvitre and Stephen C. Foster hung Dave Brown.  In response to Foster's call a horde of horsemen, Californian and Mexican, assembled from far and near, filled the streets of Los Angeles, surged around the adobe jail.  Strange as it may seem a valiant Californian, who had commanded his countrymen at the Battle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>243</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>It may be comforting to mention here that these two desperados were soon ground up in the judicial mill.  Within a few months Gonzalez was sent to the penitentiary for a bloody crime, escaped prison with the notorious Juan Flores of the subsequent Barton war, and both were hanged by the law a few years later.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>But it is very depressing to think of an educated American, mayor of an American city, resigning his office to head a Mexican mob to hang an American who was under the protection of the courts.  In my opinion Stephen C. Foster committed a fatal mistake; he died morally on that day as surely as Dave Brown died physically.  However, after the hanging an election was called and Foster was immediately ree&die;lected mayor.  The American portion of the population was against him, but his countrymen and the law-abiding element of Californians were greatly in the minority.  Foster's portrait hangs to-day in the City Hall.  Just as reasonable to hang Benedict Arnold's in the capitol at Washington.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Lynch law as administered in Los Angeles in the early times was not a marked success and after a half century of observation I have found that most of the people who indulged in that passionate pastime came to untimely or miserable ends.  When the usual high sense of honor, the sensitive nature and the conscience of Stephen C. Foster reasserted themselves he seems to have realized the enormity of his mistake.  He broke down under a brooding remorse and became an unhappy misanthrope to the day of his death, forty years after the hanging.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Joseph Mascarel was mayor in 1866, a plain, honest Frenchman turned into a good American.  He fought on the American side in the war with Mexico.  Mascarel did not distinguish himself particularly while mayor but he did in '69, when Turner was mayor, as will be hereinafter related.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Mascarel did get for Los Angeles some world-wide publicity, however.  While he was mayor some Parisian journalists on a tour of the United States honored our Angel City with a visit.  Learning that our mayor was a son of Gaul they lost no time in calling at our <HI REND="italics">Hotel de Ville</HI>
166.sgm: to pay their respects.  His Honor was out so they hunted up his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:residence.  It was in Sonoratown, an old tumble-down adobe with barred windows and dirt floor.  Conducted by a Spanish-speaking guide the party of Parisians, with gloves, canes, tail coats and top hats, entered the <HI REND="italics">Palais Royal</HI>
166.sgm:.  In the middle of the room their astonished eyes rested on a fat old Indian woman on her knees before a big flat <HI REND="italics">metate</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Without interrupting her grinding she turned her head indifferently toward the Parisian gentlemen who had darkened her doorway so unexpectedly and snapped at the native who had brought them in: " <HI REND="italics">Que quieres</HI>
166.sgm:<P>The guide wasn't sure himself what it was all about, so a spokesman stepped forward from among the visitors and, bowing low, attempted to make known that the distinguished party wished to pay his respects to the mayor of Los Angeles.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">El no esta&acute; aqui&acute;.  Vayanse</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"Ah, <HI REND="italics">oui, certainement</HI>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Yo soy, pero tengo muchos negocios.  Vayanse</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Crunch, crunch, crunch, went the <HI REND="italics">mano</HI>
166.sgm: against the grains on the <HI REND="italics">metate</HI>
166.sgm:, preparing meal for the evening <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
166.sgm:<P>But their silent, well-bred departure from the doorstep in Sonoratown was not the end of the incident by a long shot.  When those journalists got back to Paris they wrote about everything they saw in Los Angeles "that astonishing town <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:in one of the southern <HI REND="italics">comte&acute;s</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Damien Marchessault<ANCHOR ID="n22-2a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-2a">Commemorated by Marchessault Street, which bounds the Plaza on the north and runs eastwardly through Chinatown.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Marchessault's principal contribution to public service was the laying of the first water pipes under the streets of Los Angeles, in partnership with Louis Sainsevain.  These water mains consisted of hollowed logs fitted together.  They burst so often and aroused the indignation of so many citizens by jetting them with sudden geyserings as to humiliate the mayor to the point of suicide.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Joel H. Turner succeeded Marchessault and won such distinction as to render his name forever famous.  Joel Turner was a statesman, a politician, a perpetual office holder.  Joel was a hanger-on with all the tenacity of a Southern seed tick.  Leech or snapping turtle would not express this particular trait in the gentleman's character strongly enough, neither would barnacles.  Barnacles can be scraped off, snapping turtles and leeches sometimes let go, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>For many years Joel was Justice of the Peace at El Monte and elsewhere.  In connection with his court room Joel always conducted a whiskey mill, and while Justice of the Peace at El Monte the whiskey mill paved the way for his elevation to the seat of mayor of Los Angeles.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Besides, the Hon. Joel H. Turner was a great conventionist.  From the time he fixed himself on Los Angeles County until the day he died he never missed being a delegate to every Democratic convention.  If Joel couldn't get into a convention any other way he would explore the mountains, find a district where man abideth not, and elect himself a representative from that district to represent himself.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Here is how the whiskey mill at El Monte helped Joel become mayor of Los Angeles: Along in '65 and '66, red hot political years, free drinks began to run short in Los Angeles for the politicians and they would go in crowds out to El Monte.  Under pretense of having weighty matters of state to lay before him they would insinuate themselves into the hospitality of Judge Turner and gratuitously drink his whiskey.  Joel would not demean himself by demanding money for whiskey from a fellow statesman.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But economically speaking there are certain cruel natural laws which make no allowances for a man's noble intentions, and Joel's generosity broke him.  But the sponging statesman in their turn showed their nobility--a rare instance in political history, I'm sure--by banding together to make Joel mayor of Los Angeles as sign of their gratitude.  They said, said they to themselves and to Joel, in convention assembled over the last drop: "People are beginning to visit our fair city from afar and to write about it; Pixley has been here, also Rosecrans; some distinguished Frenchmen came all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The El Monte boys spared him and in 1868 Joel H. Turner was elected mayor of Los Angeles.  Unfortunately a slight mishap befell His Honor the Mayor during his term of office, the particulars of which may be found in the 37th Cal. Reports p. 370.  Briefly, a jury convicted the mayor on certain matters and a court sentenced him to ten years penal servitude in the State Penitentiary.  But that is a small matter about which to interrupt our story of a rising career; let us drop it for the moment and take it up again, if necessary, hereafter.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Soon after Mayor Turner took office an opportunity was presented to him for winning distinction, and he won it.  He made himself forever famous.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was like this: United States Secretary of State William H. Seward, that great statesman, was on his way to visit Los Angeles and the City Council ordered the mayor to give him a grand public reception.  Joel had heard of public receptions to secretaries of state and so forth but he didn't know exactly how they were gotten up.  However, it would never do for the mayor of Los Angeles--the high-toned, imported (from El Monte) mayor--to confess ignorance of such matters.  So he kept his own counsel, made his own dispositions and awaited the great man's advent.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Secretary Seward was coming down from Santa Ba&acute;rbara via the Calabasas road by stage.  Mayor Turner, mounted on a little white mustang and accompanied by a musical escort, lay in ambush for the important arrival just where the coach would emerge from the Cahuenga Pass,<ANCHOR ID="n22-3">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-3">About the junction of Cahuenga Avenue and Hollywood Boulevard.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>The committee had not long to wait.  At about 4 P.M., the great "Overland" came thundering through the pass behind its galloping, lathered horses.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At the order to "fall in" the drummer and fifer plied their bare heels on their horses' ribs and took position on each side of the prancing stage leaders, plying drumstick and wind for all they were worth.  Old Pin&tilde;acarte and the flageolet player ranged up on the flanks of the coach and the accordion man pounded along in the dust behind, pumping his bellows while the sweat cut watercourses through the silt on his face.  With jingling spurs and gay equestrian trappings Joel charged along side Crandall, the stage driver, and shouted a plea to "hold down your horses a bit and give the boys a chance."</P>
166.sgm:<P>It is an eight-mile run from Cahuenga into the Pueblo and when, at about sundown, the escort and the escorted drew up in front of the Bella Union Hotel amid a wild scattering of pups, pigs and pelados<ANCHOR ID="n22-4">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: the musicians were desperately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-4">Men of the lowest class; literally "hairy ones."</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>The mayor dismissed his parade after making a speech, the public reception was over, a precedent had been set for high-toned welcomes by the city of Los Angeles and Mayor Joel H. Turner had won undying fame.  It is this truthful historian's opinion that Joel's reception of Secretary Seward was perfectly planned and executed; indeed, a model of its kind and that he deserves his fame--because he saved a distinguished visitor from being bored.  First impressions are the ones that count.</P>
166.sgm:<P>What a truly great man was William H. Seward.  His wisdom and foresight in purchasing Alaska is almost without parallel in our national history.  He had just been on a voyage of inspection to the new territory and was on his way to Mexico on a diplomatic mission when he dropped in to take a look at our Angelic selves.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Before he is through with the famous Turner administration this truthful historian must tell how it came to pass that the city of Los Angeles was despoiled of its great communal domain of 20,000 acres, title to which came down from His Most Catholic Majesty King Carlos III of Spain.<ANCHOR ID="n22-2b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: To come quickly to the point the method was that the Mayor and Council would conceive it necessary every so often to have a ditch excavated to extend the water system over the city lands.  Some certain person would be given the contract for the job, worth perhaps from one hundred to two hundred dollars.  What the contractor would actually receive in payment would be anywhere from a few hundred to a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n22-2b">Under the Spanish plan title to all land in California was vested in the King.  When a pueblo was founded by royal decree four square leagues of land was set aside for the community.  Each settler was apportioned a town lot on which to build his home and a field of a certain size to cultivate.  These parcels became his and were assignable to his heirs if at the end of five years he had complied with all requirement of the regulation and had reimbursed the government for its advance of agricultural implements, seeds, live stock and the necessities of life required until he could support himself from the land.  He could not sell or mortgage these properties and if he or his heirs failed to comply with requirements at any time during their tenancy the land reverted to the Crown.  The unassigned portion of the four square leagues, with the exception of pieces reserved for government, ecclesiastical or communal use, belonged to the pueblo or municipality to be distributed, with the approval of provincial and royal authorities, as increase of population should suggest.  These lands were called <HI REND="italics">pro&acute;pios</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Once upon a time the city engaged the late George Hansen to survey and map certain portions of the municipality.  Hansen was a man of integrity, a civil engineer of high standing and also a master of sarcasm.  When his tract maps were completed, paid for and finally hung on rollers on the walls of the council room at the City Hall the dignity of the Municipal Corporation was considerably impaired by the discovery that an inscription had been written across the face of each plat in bold red ink, reading like this: "This tract stolen when A-- was mayor."  "This tract stolen when B-- was mayor."  "This tract stolen when C-- was mayor."  And so on.  Then across the largest map of all, representing thousands of acres, was written: "This tract stolen when Joel H. Turner was mayor."</P>
166.sgm:<P>In his first and only message Mayor Turner congratulated himself on the high character of his councilmen, his honorable co-workers for the public weal, and promised the people wonders to be performed in the way of public improvements.  The era of progress started at once.  The first thing was to sewer the city.  The exact extent of this work was the digging of a ditch beginning on the west side of Main Street exactly opposite the center of Commercial Street, thence down the middle of Commercial about five hundred feet or so to a point just east of Wilmington Street.  Twelve thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:feet of lumber was used (these were wooden sewers) costing two hundred and fifty dollars.  The whole improvement cost about four hundred dollars.  This great sewer, three feet wide, one foot deep and laid one foot underground, dumped into a cesspool, and only one man's property was connected with it.  It was really built for him.  The sewer and cesspool soon choked up and became a terrible menace to health, so much so that the courts ordered the whole public improvement abated and the cesspool filled with earth.  After the chain gang had conducted the burial the sheriff stuck a cross into the mound of earth where the cesspool had been, bearing this inscription:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Beneath this sand, mid fumes and gasses,<LB>Lie the souls of nine municipal asses."<LB></HI>
166.sgm:<P>The Council paid for this famous Commercial Street sewer the sum of $32,000 on a gold basis with a scrip issue at the rate of fifty-five cents on the dollar.  That is to say, this little four-hundred-dollar job was made to cost $52,800 and the tax payers of Los Angeles to-day are paying the same with interest in our municipal bonded debt.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But this was not half.  With whetted appetites the high-toned Council proceeded to issue warrants to the amount of $150,000 and to sell them for cash.  These warrants are included in our bonded indebtedness and oppress us in the payment of onerous and increasing tax rates.  For this $150,000 deal no stubs were kept to give evidence of issue.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Here is where ex-Mayor Joseph Mascarel comes again into the picture, and in a most favorable light.  Shrewd, vigilant and honest he got onto the details of the great financial schemes of the City Fathers, and without revealing his attitude toward them watched developments and took notes until time for the Grand Jury to meet.  Then he appeared <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>253</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>And now, can you believe what that city administration did in answer to public clamor against them?  This is the remarkable gesture the threatened officials made: They cut the dam where the water was taken out of the Los Angeles River to supply irrigation in and around the city.  Many people depended on the ditches for their domestic supply also.  A million's worth of immediate damage was threatened.</P>
166.sgm:<P>A meeting of the landed proprietors was called and the author of these lines was made chairman of a committee to wait upon the Mayor and Council to demand that the city immediately repair the ruptured dam and main canal.  This was the answer received: "Procure those indictments against us to be dismissed and we will grant your request; otherwise every vine, tree and spear of grass in this city may dry up, or you can fix it yourselves."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Crops were threatened with total ruin within a short time, immediate action was necessary and the affected citizens had to organize and do city work at their own expense.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It happened that the State Legislature was then in session, the month being February of 1870, a dry year.  The irate land owners called another meeting and again chose the author chairman of a committee, this time to go before the Legislature and petition for permanent relief from such a state of affairs in the future.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Benjamin D. Wilson--Don Benito--himself a vineyardist, was our senator.  Through his efforts and ours a bill was drawn taking the management of the Los Angeles River and the distribution of its waters from the hands of the Mayor and Council and substituting a board of Water Commissioners.  The bill was hastily put through, the indicted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The indictment against the mayor was pressed, he was tried, convicted and sentenced to ten years in the penitentiary.  We then had a Mexican for a judge, a notorious corruptionist and afterwards a fugitive from the state.  The indicted councilmen were before this court and used some potent arguments, for they procured the dismissal of their indictments.</P>
166.sgm:<P>And don't think that Mayor Turner served his ten years in prison.  Not at all.  His lawyers appealed, secured an order for a new trial--and that was the end of it.  The mayor continued in office just as if nothing had happened, as did the councilmen, and the taxpayers went on footing, as they still are footing, the bills incurred in this devil's dance.</P>
166.sgm:<P>After retirement from the mayoralty the Hon. Joel H. Turner was again appointed Justice of the Peace by the Board of Supervisors of the county and continued in office to the end of his life.  And he lived a long time.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0070" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Francisco Ocampo</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 23</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Matrimonial Sharks as Bad as Shylocks</HI>
166.sgm:<P>IN a previous chapter I referred to the loan shark curse that stripped so many of the Californians of their possessions in the early years of the American occupation.  I described how not only the Spanish Californians but American-born rancheros that had settled down in this Mexican province previous to our war with Mexico were victimized and ruined by financial sharpers of their own race.  There was an allied affliction visited upon these unsophisticated pastoral provincials, and that was an army of matrimonial speculators.  Marrying a daughter of one of the big land owners was in some respects a quicker way to clean her family of its assets than to lend money to the "old man."  And, of course, a much simpler process for the young sport who had no money to loan.</P>
166.sgm:<P>A rancho girl with a thousand or more head of cattle in expectancy and her share of a huge ranch thrown in was a rich catch for one of those matrimonial sharks.  There were many marriageable girls in California in the early days whose expected inheritance went up into the hundreds of thousands of dollars.  For instance, when Stephen C. Foster married the daughter of Don Antonio Mari&acute;a Lugo she was already a widow rich in her own right, having received a big slice of her father's holdings, while Lugo himself was a millionaire.  Not in cash, for that was always rather scarce among these people, but in the potential wealth of land and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The daughters of that famous Californian, Gen. Mariano Vallejo of Sonoma, all married Americans, and proved the exception to the general rule by marrying well.  One of them married Captain Frisbie,<ANCHOR ID="n23-1">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: a member of the old Stevenson Regiment of New York Volunteers, and Captain Frisbie is at this writing living in Mexico City, a very wealthy man.  But against the successful matches made by the Vallejo daughters we could mention hundreds of failures.  Mostly the native daughters married good looking and outwardly virile but really lazy, worthless, dissolute vagabond Americans whose object of marriage was to get rich without work.  I know of four sisters in Los Angeles each of whom came into a fortune in both city and ranch property.  Each married a fine-looking, well-educated American and each one was brought down to absolute poverty by her husband.  Those men squandered their wives' fortunes in all manner of gambling and dissolute living.  They brought those good wives, and they were all good and beautiful women, with their families of children, down to poverty.  And these instances <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0071" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>The Presidio of San Francisco.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0072" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>San Francisco Beauties--the Celestial, the Sen&tilde;ora, and Madame.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0073" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Interior of El Dorado, San Francisco.  Most famous of the lavish gambling halls of the Coast.</P>
166.sgm:</ILLUS><illus entity="a166-0074" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>First Presbyterian Church, San Francisco.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-1">John B. Frisbie, a native of New York who came to California in 1847 as captain of Company H, First Regiment of New York Volunteers (Stevenson's) and later became a prominent figure socially and financially in the Bay region.  He was candidate for lieutenant-governor in the first state election in 1849 and in 1860 sent the first cargo of wheat from California to Europe, inaugurating a trade which grew to tremendous proportions.  Died in Mexico City in recent years.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>There were several reasons why these Spanish Californian girls were inclined to marry outside their own race.  The more sensible and far-seeing of the heads of the old families felt that the future was in the hands of the invading race, that the old easy methods of business and life were no longer of avail and that it was a protection to family interests to have an American son-in-law, one who could give advice in the new business methods and have an authentic voice at court in legal and political affairs.  And the girls felt that they acquired prestige by marrying into the dominant race.  They were sensible to strange charms, as is true with women and men for that matter the world over, and found the foreigners better educated, more worldly-wise, than their own countrymen.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I do not mean to infer that all these self-seeking and often dissolute husbands were Americans.  Among them were Frenchmen, Germans, and Englishmen and occasionally a European Spaniard.  They all had the same idea.  Even the Mexican sometimes learned to emulate his foreign rival and would put on a brassy front and run through his bride's fortune without regard to the old-time respect for wife, family heritage or children.  Such an one was Don Pancho Ocampo, a big, handsome, elegant fellow who came up from Mexico, saw what the foreign boys were getting away with and put himself in the way of doing likewise.  He laid siege to the heart of Don&tilde;a Francisca, widow of one Leandri, an Italian, who was so rich in the old days before the Americans came that he operated one thousand ox-carts, necessitating two thousand peons to manage them in caravan, to carry on his commerce in hides, tallow and imported merchandise.  Don&tilde;a Francisca was the richest widow in California, owner of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:Rancho de los Coyotes.  Pancho Ocampo, the Mexico City gallant, married her and what he did to her fortune was just a shame.  He blossomed out in the early-day costume of the Californian hidalgo, blue broadcloth and green velvet with red facings, gold and silver buttons, fine white linen, embroidery and gold lace.  I used to meet Don Pancho in San Francisco in those flush days when he was dallying with the delights of that rip roaring metropolis, and how he was making Don&tilde;a Francisca's money fly!  Wine suppers, theater parties, <HI REND="italics">meriendas</HI>
166.sgm: in the country with refreshments by expensive caterers, boats chartered for trips on the bay, balls and <HI REND="italics">filles de joie</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Don&tilde;a Francisca's sister, Carlota, married one Eschrich, a Wu&die;rttemberger who had come to California as a musician in Stevenson's Regiment.  He was a high-roller, that German, and Don&tilde;a Carlota's possessions suffered the same fate as Don&tilde;a Francisca's.  It killed the wife of the Wu&die;rttemberger, and he followed her to the grave some time afterwards utterly impoverished.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Not every sen&tilde;orita succumbed easily to the marriage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>After the professional Shylock the matrimonial shark was the worst infliction that fell upon the hapless Californians.  He brought a lot of misery in his train, but also a lot of fun for the wags of the day.  We had in Los Angeles in those times a talented and humorous character named Frank Ball, mentioned by me in a previous volume in connection with his fondness for lampooning prominent people in amusing doggerel.  Frank was employed in my office for a long time, and it was while he was with me that his fame made him known as the funny man of the Coast.  Nothing appealed to Frank's funny bump more than the Californian matrimonial adventures of some of his Yankee acquaintances of the gold rush days.  He could never see much romance in a Mexican sen&tilde;orita, who, in his opinion, was quite low in the social scale in spite of her potential wealth.  Or else he was jealous of the success of some of his rough companions in acquiring native wives and leagues of land along with them.</P>
166.sgm:<P>At any rate an example of Frank's state of mind on the subject is contained in a famous doggerel, "That Fine Young Sen&tilde;orita," dedicated to one Obed Smith.  The verses are ragged and badly balanced yet it went the rounds of the theaters and saloons in the mid-fifties to the delight of all the sports of the Coast.  This Obed Smith was a companion of Frank's in the voyage to California around the Horn, in the steerage.  After arrival in San Francisco the two parted and did not see each other for several years.  Finally one day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>THAT FINE YOUNG SENORITA</P>
166.sgm:<P>or</P>
166.sgm:<P>THE DEPLORABLE END OF OBED SMITH</P>
166.sgm:<P>Air--" <HI REND="italics">That Fine Old Irish Gentleman</HI>
166.sgm: " <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I will sing you a little song that I heard the other day<LB>Of a fine young sen&tilde;orita that dwelt in San Jose&acute;.<LB>Her heart was light, her eyes were bright, her skin was somewhat yellow;<LB>Her hair was black and shone like glass when she smoothed it down with tallow.<LB>She was a fine young sen&tilde;orita of the California kind.<LB>She never wore a bonnet on her pretty little head,<LB>And her naked feet were sometimes seen 'neath petticoat so red;<LB>But on Sundays and on holidays she used to dress quite fine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<LB>With a brand new tortoise-shell comb that cost about a dime--<LB>That fine young sen&tilde;orita of the California kind.<LB>Her parents were respectable, her father a ranchero;<LB>Although his acres were very wide his purse it was quite narrow.<LB>He dwelt in his family castle, a one-story <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
166.sgm:,<LB>And sometimes sold <HI REND="italics">frijoles</HI>
166.sgm: at four dollars the <HI REND="italics">arrobe</HI>
166.sgm: --<LB>A fine old Mexicano of the California kind.<LB>The way he lassoed horses to a stranger was surprisin',<LB>And the way he hated Yankees was the rankest kind of pisin;<LB>For when he met a Yank who says, "Sir, how do ye do?"<LB>The only answer he would make was a muttered " <HI REND="italics">Carajoo</HI>
166.sgm:!"<LB>That fine old Mexicano of the California kind.<LB>He believed in Jesu Cristo and the general resurrection,<LB>And he had assisted slightly in many an insurrection;<LB>So for his many services old Pico, out of gratitude,<LB>Gave him a little piece of land--about four degrees of latitude;<LB>That fine old Mexicano of the California kind.<LB>The sen&tilde;orita met a Yankee at the end of a long lane<LB>Who says, "My name is Obed Smith, from the eastern part of Maine,<LB>And I rather like your looks, young gal, and I think I'd like to have ye."<LB>But the only answer she did make was that old reply, " <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
166.sgm:?"<LB>That fine young sen&tilde;orita of the California kind.<LB>So he <HI REND="italics">hablade</HI>
166.sgm: and he <HI REND="italics">porquede</HI>
166.sgm: and when he came again<LB>He says, "My dear, I'm desperatee."  Say she, "Y <HI REND="italics">yo tambienee</HI>
166.sgm:!" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<LB>And so you see it came to pass in spite of kin or kith,<LB>That fine young sen&tilde;orita became Mrs. Obed Smith--<LB>That fine young sen&tilde;orita of the California kind.<LB>So Obed calmly squatted down upon the old man's land,<LB>And went to breaking horses till he couldn't hardly stand.<LB>The last time I heard of him, 'tis true upon my life,<LB>He was doing nothing better than just living off his wife--<LB>That fine young sen&tilde;orita of the California kind.<LB></HI>
166.sgm:<P>That line, "a little piece of land--about four degrees of latitude," is a dig on the part of our poet at the lavish manner in which Pi&acute;o Pico, last of the governors under Mexican rule, gave away land to friends and relatives, especially as he saw the end of his sway approaching.  A wise old coon was Don Pi&acute;o.  A man of real ability, a shrewd man, yet the Shylocks got him.  Originally he was a Yankee hater.  He didn't want to see his native province--for he was an <HI REND="italics">hijo del pais</HI>
166.sgm:, born at San Gabrie&acute;l--come under gringo rule.  Once, several years before the American occupation, when a provincial political convention was in session at Monterey, there was heated discussion of the probability that England was about to seize California.  General Vallejo, a far-seeing man whose views were ahead of his time, dared to rise up and make an eloquent speech recommending annexation to the United States rather than surrender to England.  This brought the stocky, swarthy, bearded Pico to his feet in violent denunciation of the gringos.  "Look eastward toward the Sierra Nevada at this moment," he cried, "and watch them already descending into the valley of the Sacramento taking what they wish without so much as asking leave.  The gringos come not to share, but to possess.  <HI REND="italics">Los hijos del pais</HI>
166.sgm: will be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>But when the hand writing on the wall had grown still plainer Governor Pico was wise enough to trim his sails to the rising wind and to favor his American friends equally with his native friends in the wholesale granting of public lands.  These were his last acts of authority.  All who had assisted him a couple of years before in his revolution against the then govenor, Micheltorena, he liberally rewarded, and among them were several gringos who settled here in the Mexican days and have left well-known family names to the present social and financial roster of California.  For instance, John Rowland and William Workman got Rancho Puente of about forty thousand acres for their services as riflemen at the battle of Providencia.  William Wolfskill got his Puta Creek grant, eight leagues, in Napa County, for similar service.  In fact all Americans in Don Pi&acute;o's army at that battle were rewarded with land except Alexander Bell, the author's uncle, who possessed enough of the old Scotch-Irish virtue to refuse to forswear allegiance to the United States for the sake of a land grant.</P>
166.sgm:<P>When the United States Land Commission was in session in California in 1852 investigating the legality of land grants the claim was made that Governor Pico made many of his grants after he had fled as a fugitive to Mexico.  That is, that he had pre-dated the documents and left them in the hands of his friends when he jumped the country so that they were really invalid, having been made after his authority had been displaced.  That they were cooked up for the occasion to enrich his friends and to feather his own nest against such a time as he should return to his native haunts after the conclusion of peace between Mexico and the United States.  It was claimed that the most flagrant example of this sort <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:of thing was Pico's grant of the Ex-Mission San Fernando Rancho jointly to a relative and to a friend.  These assertedly fraudulent grants extended all the way from San Juan Capistrano Mission to Shasta.<ANCHOR ID="n23-2">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-2">Some of these grants made by Pi&acute;o Pico are even yet under dispute, despite favorable court action years ago.  As late as April, 1929, the United States Senate sent a subcommittee of the Senate Public Lands Committee to Los Angeles to hear evidence of fraud which certain individuals and squatters' organizations claimed to have unearthed concerning land titles that have their origin in Spanish and Mexican land grants. An attempt was made to reach a final decision as to what further action is necessary, if any is necessary, to quiet these titles once and for all after eighty years of agitation concerning them.  The Senate committee consisted of the following senators: Dale of Vermont, Nye of North Dakota, and Bratton of New Mexico.  One squatters' organization represented some eight hundred individuals who believed they had the right to file on parcels of land now included in city developments and enormously valuable, because they considered the original titles fraudulent, in which case the land would be public domain.  A lot of California history was brought out at these hearings from the mouths of old natives brought in from valley and can&tilde;on to testify, as well as from the briefs of lawyers and title experts.  Since returning to Washington the senators have submitted a report unfavorable to the claims of the squatters.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>All this, however, was a libel on Pi&acute;o Pico.  These grants were made while he had power to make them.  They all turned up to be genuine.  While still in power he rewarded his friends.  It is a pleasure to me to speak well of old Don Pi&acute;o and his virtues, among them the great gift of friendship; and of the chivalry and charm of his brother, General Andre&acute;s Pico.  In their time and considering the limitations of their advantages they were great men.  But they lived two hundred years behind the modern age that was introduced overnight, as it were, by the American occupation.  Modernism was imposed suddenly on a social and political life that was almost medieval, and this must be remembered in rendering judgment on the representatives of the old re&acute;gime.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Certainly some of the officials of the new re&acute;gime, after California became a sovereign American state, were not paragons of virtue.  Their methods were more modern and straight to the point, to be sure, than those of the Mexican politicians, but also often far more petty.  We had some queer fish here in Los Angeles, especially among the lawyers and not so long ago either.  I will cite as an amusing illustration a certain great lawyer (great because he thought so himself) that was more or less prominent in the '80's.  He had been a prosecuting attorney in a county in Illinois where he was indicted for receiving bribes, forfeited bail, ran away to Missouri and there robbed the post office at Cape Gerardeau.  What he stole from the postmaster just enabled him to reach Los Angeles and here, lo and behold, he became a prominent citizen, a statesman.  But principally, as far as this story goes, he became Prosecuting Attorney.  Together <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>But to return to Jim the Penman when he was our Prosecuting Attorney: There occurred one day in Judge Ranney's court an incident that became quite notorious and went the rounds of the Associated Press.  That is, in newspapers elsewhere than in Los Angeles, for the local press had been subordinated by Jim and his henchmen.  Here is what happened: One day two Arizona miners, in town to see the sights, called at my office and told me they had been robbed the night before on the street.  They didn't know who to go to about it; they may have had something on their consciences that kept them from wanting to go direct to the police about it and somebody had given them my name as a lawyer who might help them out.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I was leaving for San Francisco the next morning so all I could do for the two shy miners was to take them up to the Prosecutor's office and help them tell their story.  I introduced them to George Watermelon, a deputy in the Prosecutor's office, one who, so far as I ever knew, was a willing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>Watermelon drew a complaint for the two miners and went with them to Justice Ranney's court to procure a warrant before starting out on the trail of the two robbers described by the victims.  Two John Does were charged with relieving the Arizona tourists of a quantity of gold by force and violence.</P>
166.sgm:<P>As the deputy and the two Arizonans entered the court the Judge was on the bench and the Prosecuting Attorney was making an argument to the Court.  Mr. Watermelon begged the indulgence of the Court for a moment, requesting His Honor to swear the complainants on a complaint so that the warrant might issue without delay.  The Prosecuting Attorney stopped his argument and His Honor took the complaint in his hand.  Just then one of the Arizonans, who had been whispering with his companion while the two of them glanced dumbfounded from Judge to Prosecuting Attorney, grabbed Deputy Watermelon by the arm and broke out with, "Say, that fellow there" (pointing to the Judge) "and that fellow there" (pointing to the Prosecuting Attorney) "are the two thieves that robbed us!"</P>
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166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 24</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Oranges on Joshua Trees</HI>
166.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES was the largest town in California at the time of the American occupation.  It was the native metropolis, on a small scale, to be sure, but still the metropolis.  It took on growth from the time it became an incorporated American city in 1850, but for some years the gold excitement in the north held down the increase of population in the south to an insignificant figure.  From 1850 to 1856 the old Mexican town was very loosely, very informally governed by its new masters, as may be inferred by accounts of the free and easy--or rather free and strenuous--conditions that existed there.  This was due to an excessive expression of individualism rather than to organized political corruption.  But from 1856 on to and through the great real estate boom which began in 1885 and lasted three years, the banner of organized rascality floated over the municipal hall of Los Angeles and its rulers were banded together in a speculative conspiracy against all that was honest.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The city began to increase its rate of growth about 1875, but it was still a slow movement until the boom struck in '85.  This boom was one of the crimes of the age.  Only a few people profited by it while hundreds of thousands were trapped into insane purchase of property and crazy speculation, and finally ruined.  The daily press of Los Angeles boomed the boom from the word go.  The writer of these lines was the only person having access to printer's ink that published a word of warning to the credulous.  I was publishing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>At the height of the boom I printed a carefully written article calling attention to the great number of lots that had been cut by the boomers from orchards, vineyards, barley-fields and vegetable gardens in and around Los Angeles--acres and acres of productive, income-paying land suddenly reduced to waste.  A vineyard that was worth three or four hundred dollars an acre as a horticultural proposition they would figure would be worth ten thousand dollars an acre cut up into lots.  This jump in value was entirely false, of course, just a speculative inflation that worked for the moment if people believed it.  As the result of the uprooting of these productive plots we had for years the unsightly waste places in and about the city, scars from the exploding boom that it will take years more to heal over.  I showed in this article that in case all these lots were sold and a house built on each, as promised by the boomers, Los Angeles would then have a population greater than London.  But mighty few of the investors seemed to think that this was a preposterous possibility at all.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I will give a few instances of the wildcatting during those memorable years.  All the land from Redondo-by-the-Sea to Widneyville-by-the-Desert they cut up into town lots.  They built cement sidewalks for miles into the desert fastness.  They built railroad lines, where the main line did not run through, and took out train loads of crazy people with their pockets full of cash.  Bands played gay music as they traveled.  From the trains they herded them into wagons, tally-hos or stages and hauled them to the heart of the proposed new "city."  Here a vast array of refreshment tables would be set up in serried ranks, covered with cold lunch, while barrels of beer, whiskey and wine would be tapped to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>"Widneyville-by-the-Desert" was a prize exhibit of those days.  The promoters referred to it as "the modern Elysium," I believe, or some such high-toned Greek brag.  A tremendous excursion was organized to conduct the speculative hordes to the site of the proposed ideal city on the opening day.  A natural and to the Eastern tenderfoot a rather appalling growth of cactus and yucca palms, commonly called Joshua trees, covered the desert hereabouts.  These spiny, writhing Joshua trees are really a horrific sight if you are not used to them, but the promoters of Widneyville had a bright idea that saved them the expense of clearing the growth off.  They did a little judicious trimming on the cactus plants and yuccas, shaping them up into a certain uniformity, then shipped out a carload of cheap wind-fall oranges and on the end of each bayonet-like spike on the yuccas and on each cactus spine they impaled an orange.  Suddenly the desert fruited like the orange grove!  Down the lines of the proposed streets staked out in the desert, and around the great square outlined by the surveyors, crowded innumerable orange trees loaded with their golden harvest.  The Easterners stood agape at the Elysian sight, hardly listening to the salesmen as they described the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>"Here, you see, ladies and gentlemen, is the natural home of the orange," said the conductor of the excursion as he addressed the assembled multitude.  "These beautiful trees, so prolific of fruit, are a natural growth.  This is the only spot west of the Rocky Mountains where the orange is indigenous.  In a little while we will have irrigation canals all over the tract and when these orange trees are irrigated their fruit will grow as big as pumpkins.  There'll be a fortune in every block, ladies and gentlemen."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Blocks and blocks were sold from the plat of "Widneyville-by-the-Desert," at boom prices but no house was built on the actual site.</P>
166.sgm:<P>On the sea coast the boomers discovered some imaginary natural advantages in a bight or curve in the shoreline, laid out a city and called it "Redondo-by-the-Sea."  Redondo<ANCHOR ID="n24-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-1a">Named for the Rancho Sauzal Redondo ("round willow thicket"), a grant of 22,468 acres to Antonio Ygna&acute;cio Abila which had an ocean frontage of ten miles.  The town of Redondo is just over the southern edge of this grant.  This and the neighboring ranchos, La Ballona of Antonio Machado, Aguaje de la Centinela of Bernardino (Bruno) Abila, Las Cie&acute;negas of Juan Abila and Rodeo de las Aguas of the Valdez family were famous places for hunting wild fowl in the early American days--jacksnipe, wild geese and every species of duck known to the western coast.  The quaintly named Rodeo de las Aguas--"round-up of the waters" or "gathering place of the waters"--took its designation from a remarkable cluster of springs about where Sherman, lately called West Hollywood, is now located.  The name also expresses, it is said, the early-day custom of holding rodeos here for all the surrounding ranches, the central location of the property with reference to a cluster of comparatively small ranchos from the Cahuengas to the sea, and the famous springs, making it a popular choice for the festivities associated with the round-up.  The Beverly Hills district is included in this property.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>The Redondo boomers organized several steamship lines, on paper; one to China, one to Australia, another to South America.  Great cargo carriers from the ends of the earth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>Elaborate maps and sea charts were prepared showing that the Asiatic trade was bound to center at Redondo.  Redondo was nearer China than any other spot on the American coast.  It was nearer to every other place, including New York.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The daily press of Los Angeles blazoned the great future of Redondo-by-the-Sea.  Every person investing there would be sure of a fortune even if he or she never wanted to live there.  You could get a pretty good waterfront lot for from twenty thousand to fifty thousand dollars.  Villa lots back in the bleak dunes could be had for from one thousand to ten thousand dollars each.  People bought them, too, and a few foolhardy sea captains brought their ships to the wharf that was built into the open sea and some of these vessels <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>We had another great city projected and called Pacoima.  It was in the San Fernando Valley, on the people east from the old mission town of San Fernando.  The slope was just desert with a scant growth of cactus and sage, but Pacoima looked great on paper.  They built a Methodist college there, or at least projected one, and projected a whole lot of other things of like pious character.  They built a submerged dam at the mouth of Pacoima Can&tilde;on to catch the water that escaped underground from the mountains and force it to the surface for irrigation.  When they got their submerged dam done they found it was not sufficiently submerged and the water continued to escape underground and leave the tract a desert.  However the promoters made a lot out of the dam project for while the work was going on they pointed to it with pride and sold property to the gullible on the strength of what the irrigation project was <HI REND="italics">going</HI>
166.sgm: to do for the country.  I knew one poor old Frenchwoman who bought three blocks in the projected business center of Pacoima.  The first one she bought she paid sixteen thousand dollars for and as a favor the promoters allowed her to buy the two contiguous blocks for eight thousand apiece.  There never was and never had been a day since the sun first warmed the earth that these blocks had been worth more than five dollars apiece.  They were not worth anything so far as utility was concerned.  Pacoima always was a desert, is a desert to-day and will be a desert for all future time, unless some one can find water somewhere, and then these blocks might be worth one or two hundred dollars apiece.  But where is the water to come from?<ANCHOR ID="n24-2a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-2a">This is now a highly developed horticultural region covered with lemon, orange, olive and avocado groves and florists' rose and seed farms.  The San Fernando Valley was transformed in recent years by the Los Angeles Aqueduct, bringing water from the Owens River Valley two hundred and thirty miles away, across deserts and mountains.  Across the mouth of Pacoima Can&tilde;on there was completed in 1928 one of the highest dams in the world to control and store winter flood waters.</NOTE>
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166.sgm:<P>While the Pacoima project was in full force and effect I was riding down town from my home one morning on the street car and entered into conversation with a stranger.  He had come, it seemed, from the Dakotas to pass the winter in our pleasant clime, and he remarked to me, "You have quite a real estate boom on in these parts, I see."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"We certainly have," I answered.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Well," he continued, "I saw the most curious performance yesterday.  My wife and I attended the Methodist church out on Pico Heights.  After the sermon the preacher descended from the pulpit and spotting me right in the front row said, `You seem to be a stranger here.'  When I had acknowledged the accusation, he said, `Going to stay here long?'  When I told him we would be here through the winter, he said, `Whouldn't you be interested in investing in real estate while you are here?'  I answered that I couldn't say, but that I would look the field over.  Right away he pulled a lot of circulars from his pocket advertising Pacoima.  `Now,' said he, `before you buy anywhere I want you to go look this project over.  Pacoima is going to be the great educational center of this country.  A great Methodist college will be built there and the faculty is already elected.'  Then he went on scattering circulars through the congregation.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"It seems to me," continued my street car acquaintance, "that this boom business is being carried a little too far when the preachers become boomers and set about to catch their Sunday congregations.  I'm afraid it will burst one of these days."</P>
166.sgm:<P>We had still another "city" on the desert.  It was projected by two great temperance oracles, ex-Governor St. John of Kansas and Jesse Yarnell of Los Angeles.  They procured some land somehow or other, by hook or by crook, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>I ridiculed their proposition in print.  I told the public that the tract never would be worth more than three dollars an acre.  I knew every foot of that land because I had ranged my sheep over it a quarter of a century before, and I told them that there was not a drop of the pure, God-given water that was to be such an important item in their lives within miles of the region, straight down or sideways.  It was a poorer place than "Widneyville-on-the-Desert" because it didn't even have a Joshua tree on which to stick oranges.  A temperance colony on a waterless waste was a stunner, indeed, and I warned the suckers that if they moved out there they would have to order beer to sustain life.</P>
166.sgm:<P>There were a few poor, hardworking men made rich over-night by the great boom, but usually their sudden wealth slipped through their fingers almost as rapidly as it had slipped into them.  These were fellows that didn't know what the boom was all about until it struck them and left them near-millionaires; fellows that had taken up claims on almost waterless, unproductive lands and had put in years trying to make a living from the soil.  I knew one such fellow that took up a government pree&die;mption at the foot of one of our mountain ranges and toiled there for a long time trying to support a family.  The boom hit right where his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>He came to town to enjoy life.  A presidential election was approaching.  One day I met the man--John, I will call him, without identifying the family, other than to say he was the first American child born in the city of Los Angeles--and he was on his way to Republican headquarters.  He had two servants at his heels carrying bags of gold.  He had been drinking and he wanted to talk.  "Mayjor," he said to me, "I'm going down to make a contribution to the cause."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"What cause, John?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"The Republican cause, Major.  I'm going to give this to the executive committee.  I have some pride in Los Angeles.  I was born here."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"How much have you got there, John?" I asked.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, just a starter, Major.  There's five thousand in each of these bags."</P>
166.sgm:<P>John staggered on down the street carrying his load of alcohol as best he could and his servants carrying his bags of gold.  It wasn't long before every penny of his $160,000 boom money was gone, his beautiful wife had divorced him and taken the lovely little children with her and this initial son of American Los Angeles was submerged in the drift.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I could name a dozen or more others that I personally know of the small honest class that got windfalls out of the boom, who sank right to the bottom along with John the First.  That kind of money seemed to carry a curse with it.</P>
166.sgm:<P>We had an old Mexican silversmith in Los Angeles, a very ingenious and talented craftsman well known to the old-timers.  He owned a little low, flat adobe on a lot in Sonoratown, with about sixty foot frontage on Upper Main Street and a depth of about one hundred feet.  There he had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>The widow put up with the court the two thousand dollars paid her late husband by the capitalists and, in order to raise the two thousand more demanded by her lawyers for prosecuting the suit and to cover other expenses, she mortgaged some other property she had in that part of town for eight thousand dollars.  She borrowed the money from a banker.  The capitalists that had made the original offer to buy, instead of contesting the suit jumped at the chance to take up the two thousand she tendered them through the court and willingly cancelled the contract.  The boom was bursting.  The result to the widow was that she got back <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>I had an old soldier friend.  He was a stone cutter.  He cut stone for a rich French Canadian here in Los Angeles named Beaudry.<ANCHOR ID="n24-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-1b">Prudent Beaudry, several times mayor of Los Angeles.  Beaudry Street runs through a portion of the city once largely owned by him.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>The stone cutter and his wife bought a lot on a fashionable street and built a mansion and the lady became a leader in circles she could not have entered before.  She was prominent in Grand Army circles as president of one of the women's auxiliaries and once I made the trip to a G.A.R. encampment at Santa Rosa with an excursion of which she was a member.  As the train swept through the beautiful country above San Francisco Bay, up toward Petaluma, the scenery was gorgeous.  It was springtime and those grand evergreen oaks that cover the hillsides and make parks of the valleys presented indescribable vistas.  One superb oak stood alone and rising from beneath it was a great fragment of gleaming granite like a rough monument.  Somebody exclaimed over the perfect picture the oak and the granite made with the foreground of verdure like a perfect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>Mrs. Stone Cutter, the boom queen, immediately turned to me and said, "Major, how much do you think it would cost to have that granite bowlder set down on my lawn in Los Angeles?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, it would cost you at least five thousand dollars," I answered.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Well, I'm going to have it on my lawn if it costs ten thousand," she answered.  And it was laid down there, at a cost that may have been nearer the maximum than the minimum.  Two years later her husband was cutting stone again, when he could get work, and she was dying of a broken heart.  The Boom Queen was a mere commoner once more, yea, almost a mendicant, and life was no longer worth living.  Boom!  Boom!  Hear the boom burst!  And the wounded cry out!</P>
166.sgm:<P>I had a Mexican friend, a good-hearted, industrious, honest fellow, a widower with several children and an aged mother.  He owned thirteen acres of land on the edge of town for which he had paid a total of two hundred and fifty dollars.  He raised watermelons, corn, beans, chile peppers and made a fair living.  Quite a thrifty fellow was Jesu&acute;s.  The real estate boom began to grow louder and louder and my friend began to believe that it was the sound of salutes from castles in Spain.  He decided that he was very rich and walked in the clouds.  To him the conclusion in his own mind was sufficient; it wasn't necessary to do anything about it; utterly silly to rush around like these land speculators, making deals.  One could easily calculate with a sliver of charcoal on a sufficiently clean cornhusk, even if one were not well educated, that thirteen acres of land within sound <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>One day I said to him: "Jesu&acute;s, haven't you sold your land yet?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"No, not yet."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"What do you think it's worth?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, to-day worth one hundred thousand dollar.  Tomorrow, <HI REND="italics">quien sabe</HI>
166.sgm:<P>That poor Mexican actually refused an offer of $150,000 for his thirteen acre truck patch.  He thought he would wait for $200,000 <HI REND="italics">man&tilde;ana</HI>
166.sgm:.  And in the meantime, being already worth that two hundred thousand in his mind, Jesu&acute;s decided that he was putting forth needless effort in raising watermelons, beans and chile.  Instead of that he would go to the bank and get a little spending money to play with while he waited for the two hundred thousand dollar deal.  Or maybe a bigger deal than that.  Oh, surely bigger than that, come to think of it.  At least a half a million dollars, <HI REND="italics">como no</HI>
166.sgm:<P>So he plastered his little farm with a two thousand dollar mortgage.  The rest of the story can be told in a line or two.  The dream ship sank with Jesu&acute;s on board, the mortgage sharks gobbled up the thirteen acres, his children all died and he is living on acorns up in a mountain can&tilde;on with his ancient mother.  She is one hundred and three years old and he, her first born, is eighty at this writing.  The blow was not a deadly one, apparently, but it ought to be a lesson to them for the future!</P>
166.sgm:<P>After the boom had "busted" a prominent San Francisco newspaper was reviewing the rascally course of the real estate excitement in Southern California; the ruin it had wrought, the desolation in its wake, the blighted hopes, the broken families, the desolated homes.  It arraigned the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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166.sgm:<P>A recital of the various forms of rascality perpetrated by the boomers would fill a volume.  But the one greatest piece of rascality of all, to my mind, was the desecration of one of the city graveyards.  It was a small pioneer graveyard covering ten acres.<ANCHOR ID="n24-2b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-2b">The author refers to a plot of ground on the northwest corner of Figueroa and Ninth streets.</NOTE>
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166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 25</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Kings of the Commonwealth</HI>
166.sgm:<P>IT is wonderful how far the average man's vanity will carry him in the expenditure of money to see his name lauded in print and his face limned in publication.  This biography business is one of the greatest industries of the age.  It has flourished in Southern California with particular virility.  The fad began here in '86 or '87 and it has grown until it is almost equal in importance to the oil industry and far ahead of Belgian hares.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Every man that publishes a paper goes into the biography business and some publishers have no other excuse for publishing except the biography business.  One of these publishers goes to a groceryman, for instance, and solicits the privilege of publishing his photograph and history.  Possibly the grocer, an old-timer, expresses surprise that there is anything to tell about him that the community doesn't already know.  "Why, of course the old-timers all know about you," replies the solicitor patronizingly, "but they've never seen you lauded in print.  That's what counts.  And think of the newcomers arriving in town every day who are ignorant of your honorable history.  Now, your life has been so eventful and your virtues are so great that we won't charge you for anything but the engraving of your picture."</P>
166.sgm:<P>But the subjects of the biographical sketches all pay exorbitantly, as a matter of fact.  For an engraving costing a dollar the victim will be charged ten or fifteen dollars.  Some as high as twenty dollars.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>And what curiosities these biographies are.  Summed up they generally amount to this:</P>
166.sgm:<P>JOHN JONES: He was born and he cried.  He lived and he died.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I have been referring especially to the small weeklies.  The big dailies are in the business on a franker scale.  They usually get out New Year editions and for months previous to publication their representatives canvass the workshops of lawyers, doctors, bankers, ironmongers, soapmakers and woodcarvers, including carpenters (always designated as contractors), offering "write-ups" for from twenty to two hundred dollars.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Thus do inkslingers and typesetters draw revenue from Vanity Fair.</P>
166.sgm:<P>In 1887 or '88, during the big boom times in Southern California, a very talented literary lady called on me with a letter from the publishers of <HI REND="italics">The Golden Era</HI>
166.sgm:, a pioneer magazine of San Francisco.  The letter requested her to solicit Major Bell's biography for the publication in question and called attention to the fact that the Major had been one of the earliest contributors to its pages; that <HI REND="italics">The Golden Era</HI>
166.sgm: had been publishing biographical sketches of its notable early contributors such as Mark Twain, Bret Harte, Joaqui&acute;n Miller <HI REND="italics">et cetera</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Said the lady, full of confidence and enthused over her assignment: "Just write your sketch yourself and I will enlarge upon it and embellish it to your guaranteed satisfaction.  Remember, there is no charge."</P>
166.sgm:<P>I dashed the lady's high hopes by declining to be biographed along this plan which was one applied, I knew, only to lesser literary lights than Mark Twain and the others named, but she was such a lovely lady and such a really <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Madame," said I, "it is with real regret that I have disappointed you, but if you will allow me I can give you a piece of advice that will put you in the way of making some money."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"For goodness' sake tell me," she replied eagerly.  "I certainly need some money."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Well," said I, "you write to your magazine and get authority to biograph the leading men of Los Angeles.  The ones that claim to be, I mean.  Get a fixed price to quote and I will give you a list of forty fools.  Or more, if you need them."</P>
166.sgm:<P>In due course of time the lady received sanction from the publishers to go ahead on the new basis.  Each citizen biographed and depicted was to pay a certain sum "for engraving" and to buy at least twenty copies of the magazine at twenty-five cents per copy.  The lady herself, beside regular commission, was to get what she could out of each customer for putting the literary flourishes of her own pen to the stirring biographical sketches.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I gave the lady a list of forty persons whose vanity I felt sure would induce them to be liberal.  The first one on that list was ex-Governor John G. Downey, then a millionaire and recently married a second time.</P>
166.sgm:<P>He subscribed and she took his story directly from his dictation.  Much elated, the lady submitted the typewritten pages of the Downey sketch to me.  It was extravagant and we laughed over it.  I knew how extravagant it was because I was as familiar with the history of Downey as I was with anything else in the world.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"If it isn't sufficiently laudatory perhaps you can add to it," laughed the lady.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Yes, I can," was my answer, and I did.  When that biography was published there appeared in history for the first time the news that Governor Downey was a lineal descendant of Brian Boru, King of Munster; that the former governor of California was born in a castle in Ireland built by Boru himself and that the castle still belonged to the illustrious family of Downey.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This was all the merest fiction, my own invention.  I wanted to see how far the man's vanity would carry him, so I had her take the additions to the sketch back to her customer for his inspection before sending them to the publisher.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why," exclaimed Downey, "how did you learn this?  Oh, from Major Bell?  Yes, I told that to the Major in confidence years ago.  I never cared to parade myself as a descendant of royalty but as long as the facts are out go ahead and use them."</P>
166.sgm:<P>When the special edition of biographical sketches appeared it caused a great sensation; that is, among the subjects of the sketches.  That all were pleased is putting it mildly.  The lady biographist was invited to dine at the home of the ex-governor and found a hundred dollar bill under her napkin--the most extravagant piece of generosity ever known of this particular host.  The other subjects of the biographies paid her twenty dollars a head.</P>
166.sgm:<P>There was one, a sort of clodhopper, who thought himself of particular importance.  His dictated story about himself was submitted to me along with the others before publication.  This sketch of the clodhopper was especially laudatory; such a luminary as it described simply had never existed in our town.  It was too good not to be made better.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why," said I to the agent when she had finished reading it to me, "why, you have left out the main thing."</P>
166.sgm:<P>What is that?"</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"You haven't given the hero an ancestry."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Give him one yourself," she laughed.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"All right.  Don't you see that the name is French, or a corruption of the original Norman French?  Why, this clodhopper's illustrious ancestor was one of the leaders in the army of William the Conqueror who crossed over on that great filibustering expedition from Normandy to England.  This ancestor distinguished himself at the Battle of Hastings and the name has come in English history associated with deeds of valor.  Somewhat changed it has come to the United States, has grown and flourished here and like a meteor it has flashed from the frigid shores of Maine to the golden sands of California.  Why, of course, the subject of this sketch is the modern shining light of a most illustrious line."</P>
166.sgm:<P>This idea was duly interpolated in the sketch, was shown to the subject and met with his unqualified approval.  He added a ten dollar gratuity to the quoted price in token of appreciation.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I forgot to say that after the lady writer had worked up my idea she resubmitted the sketch to me before taking it to the citizen most concerned.  While she was reading the revised edition aloud in my office the "Baron of Casteca," Bill Jenkins, dropped in.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why," said he, "you certainly left something out that ought to go in."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"For heaven's sake, let me know what it is," exclaimed the lady.  "Let's get it all in."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Well, here it is," replied Bill Jenkins.  "The honorable gentleman's father never washed himself during the twenty years he lived in Los Angeles.  He never wore socks and his pantaloons never came within six inches of his shoetops.  There's more if you have room for it."</P>
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166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Mr. Jenkins, I'm writing for money," replied the lady austerely.  "I won't have room for <HI REND="italics">any</HI>
166.sgm:<P>In this manner the little lady who needed money and knew an idea when it was pointed out to her went through the Forty Fools with a profit of more than a thousand dollars to herself.</P>
166.sgm:<P>She wound up her solicitations with Col. Robert S. Baker.  I don't know how Baker became a colonel but I do know that he was a pretty decent fellow.  He began life in California as a sheepherder.  Finally sheep made him rich and he married the wealthy widow of Don Abel Stearns, one of the most successful of the Americans that settled here in Mexican days.  I repeat that Baker was a decent fellow for I do not want to be misunderstood as casting any aspersions on him because he began life as a sheepherder.  It was he himself who first told me he had begun life that way, roaming the hills and plains with his frying pan and blankets on his back.  He was not ashamed of his early career and he was <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
166.sgm:<P>It was the lady biography collector's own idea to call on Colonel Baker.  He politely declined to become one of the biographied.  The lady persisted.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why, Colonel," she wheedled, "just look over this list, this galaxy of prominence, all ready signed up for biographies and pictures, and decide for yourself how well you would look among them.  All for twenty dollars!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>Colonel Baker looked over the list, stuck his hand in his pocket and handed his caller twenty dollars.  With the sweetest of smiles she received the money and said: "Now, Colonel, will you write it yourself or shall I assist you?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Write what?" inquired the Colonel in apparent surprise.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Why, your biography of course,"</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh!" exclaimed the Colonel, "did you think I gave you the twenty dollars to include me in that publication?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>Certainly, Colonel."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Oh, no!  I gave you the twenty dollars to leave me out."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Col. R. S. Baker, honored be your memory as an exception to the generality of vainglorious citizenry!  Green be your grave!</P>
166.sgm:<P>Hubert Howe Bancroft grew great in the biography business.  He was the top of the biographical graft.  He began compilation of a work to be called "Kings of the Commonwealth."  Think of it--Kings of the Commonwealth!  Any one could be a king of this commonwealth by paying from one thousand to five thousand dollars.  Every old gambler in San Francisco, every old stockbroker, every shoddy real estate man and all of the sand-hill lords caught at the bait.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But it was in Los Angeles that the promotion of "Kings of the Commonwealth" began.  A certain Doctor Fowler was the canvassing agent for Bancroft down here, the angler for kings.  He found some here, too, the principal of whom was former Governor Downey.  Doctor Fowler took Downey's biography as Downey dictated it to him, and after adding some literary flourishes submitted the manuscript to the ex-governor of California for his approval.  Downey proudly showed it to Count O'Reilly.</P>
166.sgm:<P>This distinguished Count O'Reilly was a gentleman, and let it be said here that an Irish gentleman is the finest gentleman in the world.  He was a Catholic count, that is a count of the Pope's creation, and let me say that the Pope greatly honored himself and the Church when he conferred this title upon Sarsfield O'Reilly.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Now, this Count O'Reilly related to me the discussion between himself and ex-Governor Downey over the biography prepared by Bancroft's agent.  Said he:  "Downey and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>"The ex-governor replied in substance: `Well, Count, I'm rich.  I have made a great fortune and I am going to spend as much of it in this way as I can.  I would rather pay five thousand dollars to be lied about in this way than to leave the five thousand dollars for a lot of hungry Munsterians to fight over when I die.'"</P>
166.sgm:<P>In due course of time Doctor Fowler followed Downey to one of the latter's ranches where the latter used to go to rusticate and got his check for five thousand dollars on the First National Bank of Los Angeles.  Spence, another Irishman, was president of this bank.  When the Downey check was presented he was at the window and refused to honor it.  "I am Downey's business agent," he said to the disgruntled book agent, "and if this is the sort of thing he is spending money for then he is incompetent to manage his own affairs."</P>
166.sgm:<P>It came to pass about this time that the San Francisco newspapers got after the "Kings of the Commonwealth" scheme.  Names of subscribers were ascertained and all manner of ridicule was cast upon them.  The consequence was that the subscribers began to take cover and when Bancroft came to collect his fees the "Kings" refused to pay.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>When Hubert Howe Bancroft was in Los Angeles collecting material for his well known voluminous "History of California," he called upon me for historical data.  I furnished a great deal of material for the Bancroft history of California, for which I was never given a line of credit.  Bancroft published my writings and called them his writings.  It was an easy method on his part to make it appear that he was a great historian.  He not only used my manuscripts but republished page after page of my published work and claimed this as his original research.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Here is an instance of my experience with Bancroft: About the beginning of our National Centennial, 1876, a great calamity befell Los Angeles in the failure of the Temple and Workman Bank.  Temple and Workman were rich ranchers, owners with the Rowland family, of the great Rancho Puente of eleven leagues, and proprietors of the Rancho Merced, El Potrero de Felipe Lugo and other famous Southern California properties aggregating sixty thousand acres abundantly watered.  Workman<ANCHOR ID="n25-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: was an Englishman by birth, a most excellent gentleman of rural manners, a pioneer who came to California with the Rowland-Workman party from New Mexico prior to the American occupation.  Temple was a young Massachusetts man who came to Los Angeles soon after the occupation, a well-educated man of great industry, indomitable energy and a good generous heart.<ANCHOR ID="n25-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-1a">William Workman arrived in Los Angeles in 1841, with the party from Taos and Santa Fe&acute; that included Benj. D. Wilson and John Rowland.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-1b">According to other authorities the author seems to have mistaken the date of F. P. F. Temple's arrival.  "Templito," as he was known to the natives on account of his five feet four inches of stature, was a brother of the better-known Don Juan Temple who came to Los Angeles as early as 1829 and opened the first general merchandise store in the Pueblo.  This was at the present junction of North Main and Temple streets, afterwards the site of the Downey Block and now of the Federal Building.  "Templito" came around the Horn from Massachusetts in 1841, entered business with his brother John and, in 1845, married Antonia Margarita Workman.  His principal rancho was La Merced, in the San Gabrie&acute;l Valley, where his great adobe 70 x 110 feet was notable among the ranch houses of the day.  The oldest building razed to make way for the construction of the new City Hall, begun in 1928, was the Temple Block, the southern portion of which was erected by John Temple in 1857, diagonally across from the location of his original store.  John married Rafaela Cota, an heir of the Rancho Santa Gertrudis, one of the earliest grants on record, made to the Nieto family in 1784.  Rancho los Cerritos, now part of the site of the city of Long Beach (Rancho los Alamitos of Don Abel Stearns being the other part) was the home ranch of Don Juan Temple.  A part of the immense old adobe house is still preserved on the grounds of the Virginia Country Club, Long Beach.  Don Juan died in 1866 and his wife and daughter moved permanently to Paris.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>These ranchers were deluded into starting a bank and succeeded in filling its vaults with much good honest coin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Well, when the bank suspended Mr. Temple went to San Francisco and borrowed eighty-five thousand dollars from Lucky Baldwin, a mere bagatelle compared to the exigency of the situation, but it reopened the bank for a short time.  The interest on this loan from the benevolent Baldwin was 2 per cent. a month, secured by a mortgage on all the lands and other property owned by the novice bankers.  All those magnificent ranch properties above named went as security for this eighty-five thousand dollars.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The bank's creditors finally threw Temple and Workman into the U.S. Bankruptcy Court and an assignee was appointed.  First Dan Freeman and E. F. Spence served, then George E. Long.  One day Long came to my office and said: "Major, I have been thinking over this Workman and Temple misfortune, and because you are prone to expose wrong-doing and rascality I want you to see the Temple and Workman books.  I assure you that the books of that bank show more rascality than it is possible to imagine.  If you will accept these books I will make a present of them to you for public use.  You can do with them as you will."</P>
166.sgm:<P>At about this time Bancroft visited me in quest of material.  I had recently published a book of reminiscences which had been well received and was editing a paper.  Believing then that Bancroft was preparing a history that would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0075" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Courtesy Los Angeles County Museum Library</HI>
166.sgm: Half page of <HI REND="italics">The Porcupine</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>When the Bancroft volume containing the local annals appeared there was not a mention of the truth as contained in the bank's books.  Not a mention of the revelations of the books at all.  Not a reference to the fact that the notes of some of our supposedly leading citizens had been sold for ten cents on the dollar on the courthouse steps.  Not a single actual rascal was recorded.  But somehow it seemed that about every rascal that should have been named, every rascal of prominence participating in the ruin of Temple and Workman, every sharper whose hands were stained with their blood, became a subscriber to the absurd Bancroft history at two hundred and eighty-four dollars the set of volumes.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0076" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Lui&acute;s Rubidox</P>
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166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 26</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">In Praise of the Mormons</HI>
166.sgm:<P>IT would not be fair to write about the American beginnings of California without saying something about the Mormons.  Really the Mormons were the true pioneers of the Golden State.  There were other Americans here ahead of them, clear back through Mexican days even into the Spanish re&acute;gime, but these individuals do not come under the head of pioneers as we use the classification in connection with the settlement of the Pacific Coast states.  They were adventurers in the more personal sense--sailors cast adrift on these distant shores, or taking a fancy to the land and deserting their ships to marry native women and surrender their nationality for their own gain.  Or they were hunters, trappers, traders that drifted in overland, some attached to exploring parties, others adventuring by themselves.  Or here and there a Yankee shipping agent that had come to the coast to represent his firm and had remained permanently.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But the organized pioneers came after the acquisition of California by the United States, or more correctly they began coming westward from the date of the outbreak of the Mexican War.  The principal movement was started by the gold rush of '49, but the Mormons came before that, along with the army that took and held California under the Stars and Stripes.  They came on a purely patriotic and self-sacrificing errand--at least these first of them--to advance the interests of the very government that was opposed to their religious beliefs.  In Southern California we have a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:community--the thriving city of San Bernardino, first American settlement in this part of the state--that was founded by Mormons.<ANCHOR ID="n26-1a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-1a">A rancho of the Mission San Gabrie&acute;l was established in the San Bernardino Valley as early as 1810.  A few years later a chapel was built by the padres, with attendant temporal structures, fourteen in all.  The ruins of this group, located on high ground between the present cities of San Bernardino and Redlands, towards the San Gorgonio Pass, are now (1930) in process of restoration by the county of San Bernardino, to be preserved as a public monument.  San Bernardino's historical background is a unique blend of Catholicism and Mormonism.  After the Franciscan missionaries were dispossessed by the Mexican government most of the San Bernardino property was granted to the Lugo family, from which the Mormons purchased.  In 1851 a Mormon bishop, Nathan C. Tenney, and his wife were living in the old Franciscan chapel, where Mrs. Tenney conducted a Mormon school.  (See <HI REND="italics">Last of the Missions</HI>
166.sgm:<P>In 1846 when American volunteers were mustering for the invasion of Mexico the Mormons were starting westward from Nauvoo, Illinois, to escape persecution and to found an empire of their own in the wilderness.  It was their famous Exodus.  Their first winter was passed at Cainesville, on the Missouri River.  In the spring of '47 they started to open the way to the new Zion.  Brigham Young was at the head of that band of pioneers.  With an advance force of one hundred or so followers, Young pushed ahead and opened the way to Salt Lake, founded the new Zion and in the next year the main body followed.  The result of their labors in the wilderness is the great commonwealth of Utah to-day.</P>
166.sgm:<P>But it is the young Mormons that turned aside from the purpose of their dream and the goal of their elders to help the United States government fight the war with Mexico, that concern Californians of to-day, and especially those of us of the south where the famous Mormon Battalion was principally stationed.  The world has seldom listened to a story more fraught with hardship, peril and self-sacrifice than the story of the Mormon Battalion.  The five hundred odd young men that composed this battalion were mustered into the service of the United States July 16, 1846.  They bid farewell to their elders, their friends and relatives of the Exodus for this purpose and were started for California under command of Col. James Allen.  They enlisted voluntarily to protect with their lives that flag under which they had been denied protection.</P>
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166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The battalion started on a march of three thousand miles, much of it through an unknown country, without as much provisions as a modern company of infantry would consume in one day.  Their whole equipment was of the poorest sort, their mules and horses hardly alive; they suffered terribly from a quack doctor, or an ignorant one, assigned to their outfit whose prescriptions killed oftener than they cured; their distress was increased by the death of Colonel Allen, an excellent army officer, soon after they began their march.  The command devolved temporarily upon Lieut. A. J. Smith, about whom the less said the better.</P>
166.sgm:<P>When Santa Fe&acute; was reached Lieut.-Col. P. St. George Cooke, U.S.A., was placed in command.  He conducted himself as an officer and a gentleman and his published account of early experiences in California is well known to students of our Western history.  The march to the Coast was resumed at Santa Fe&acute; October 14, 1846, and after a series of unspeakable hardships, with death and distress stalking them every mile, the command emerged from the desert and encamped at Warner's Ranch above San Diego.  Here at the home of Jonathan Trumbull Warner, a Connecticut Yankee who had come to the country in the '30s with a trapping party and had settled, the young Mormons saw their first house in California.<ANCHOR ID="n26-2a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-2a">This Connecticut Yankee, better known to the natives as Don Juan Jose&acute; Warner, or Juan Largo--"Long John," on account of his height of six feet four inches--came to California from New Mexico in 1831 with Ewing Young's trapping expedition and, after various adventures, settled in Los Angeles in 1834.  He was associated for a time with Don Abel Stearns and Don Juan Temple, and then went into the mercantile business with Henry Mellus.  Their store was on Main Street about half a block north of the present Temple Street.  Warner became a Mexican citizen and in 1844 was granted the Valle de San Jose&acute;, a property lying among the mountains midway between the Mission San Diego de Alcala&acute; and the Mission San Lui&acute;s Rey de Francia.  It is still known as Warner's Ranch or Warner Hot Springs.  In 1853 the house was attacked by Indians and sacked and Warner permanently removed his family to Los Angeles, where he lived on a site now occupied by the Burbank Theatre, Main Street near Sixth.  A large adobe house under oak trees in an arroyo on the old stage road east of the main valley is often mistakenly pointed out as the Warner ranch house.  Judge Benjamin Hayes, who camped near the house in 1850 and visited Warner in it, distinctly says it stood out alone <HI REND="italics">on a bare knoll</HI>
166.sgm:<P>In the meantime the ship <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn</HI>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>On arrival at Warner's Ranch the Mormon Battalion was ordered by General Kearny to proceed to San Diego for station.  Later the battalion was moved back to the vicinity of Warner's and quartered in the old San Lui&acute;s Rey Mission.  After a month here spent in intensive drill and discipline the command was moved to Los Angeles, then considered a hot bed of possible trouble.  Los Angeles was then an old Spanish-Mexican town inhabited by restless, resentful Californians and lawless characters from other races.  In these unfavorable surroundings, with vice and violence flaunting on every side, the young Mormon soldiers maintained a moral dignity that should be emblazoned in lustrous letters on their record.  They respected the rights of property even when hunger was gnawing at their vitals, both on the long march and after arrival; they kept clear of the saloons, brothels and cock fights and by minding their own business they avoided unnecessary quarrels with the populace.  However, when quarrels were forced upon them they sustained themselves valiantly as many a whipped "bad man" of that day could testify.</P>
166.sgm:<P>As the year of their original enlistment drew to a close and California was safely under the Stars and Stripes the young Mormons expressed their desire to rejoin the main body of their [overd] fellows, now establishing the new Zion.  The army officers in charge in Los Angeles used every effort to induce the Mormon volunteers to ree&die;nlist, for they had found them good and useful soldiers, but the majority decided to be on its way.  It was very much feared that the disbandment of the battalion would be followed by a fresh revolt on the part of the Spanish Californians.  Enough ree&die;nlistmentswere secured from the battalion to maintain one company, which remained in Los Angeles.  The rest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0077" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Rush for the gold regions.</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0078" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Sutter's Mill.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0079" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A beauty of the old regime, Antonia de Bandini.  Popularly known as "Mrs. Captain Jose&acute;."</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0080" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Don Juan Bandini and daughter Margarita.  Don Juan originally held the great grant of Jurupa where is found now the famed Riverside orange growing district.  Margarita later became Mrs. J. B. Winston.</P>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>On August 26 these ex-soldiers camped on the banks of the America River near where the city of Sacramento now stands.  Soon they moved on to Sutter's Fort and on the offer of employment by Capt. Johann Sutter a number of them decided to remain here until the following summer.  In charge of one of his men, James Marshall, Sutter sent forty or fifty of the Mormons to a point known now as Coloma to construct a sawmill.  It was due to the construction of this mill that gold was discovered January 24, 1848.  The construction of the mill would have been impossible at the time but for the aid of the former members of the Mormon Battalion, who alone among the immigrants had a sufficient force of millwrights, carpenters and other mechanics to carry on the work.</P>
166.sgm:<P>It was the twenty-fourth day of January that the eye of James Marshall was attracted to the bed of the millrace by glittering yellow substance.  He scooped some up and declared to his companion, James C. Brown of the Mormons, that it was gold.  Brown was sceptical but when the next morning Marshall came to him with an unmistakable supply of the yellow metal Brown seized up a handful and cried, "Gold, boys, gold!"</P>
166.sgm:<P>The exciting news was soon carried to San Francisco and was first published to the world in Sam Brannan's paper--the paper issued by the Mormons that had come on the <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn</HI>
166.sgm:<P>In the light of these events it seems but fair to affirm that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>It was in 1851 that an offshoot of the Mormon colony in Utah was founded at San Bernardino, sixty-five miles east of Los Angeles.  The agricultural wealth that has accrued to the state from the introduction by these Mormons of their system of irrigation can scarcely be estimated and is a far greater contribution on their part than their assistance in the discovery of gold.  It was my fortune to visit San Bernardino often in its early days and I became well acquainted with those pioneer Mormons.  I was stationed at old Fort Jurupa for a time, close to the present site of Riverside, and as Quartermaster Smith of the post purchased a lot of supplies from the near-by Mormons there was much friendly intercourse between Jurupa and San Bernardino.</P>
166.sgm:<P>I was then a very young man, and as I look back now I can see that I was benefited by my contact with those serious, rugged people.  They set good examples for youth.  There were no gamblers tolerated at San Bernardino, no rum sellers, no lewd characters offering vice for sale.  There were no drones there.  Persistent industry, intensive husbandry were the impressive features of life there.  The colony purchased its lands from the princely holdings of the celebrated Lugo family, whose grants came from the King of Spain and the Republic of Mexico.  The first thing the Mormons did was to build a stockade about a quarter of a mile square with two great gates leading into it.  Inside they placed their dwellings, shops and stores.  Every night the gates were barred and a sentry kept vigilant watch from the walls against surprise by marauding bands of "bronco" or wild Indians from the mountains and desert.  The desert lies just over the mountains, through the Cajon Pass, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>The seed wheat from which was raised the first crop for the Salt Lake establishment, that is, the crop of 1848, was bought from the stock remaining on hand at the old Franciscan missions in what became Los Angeles County and was carried eight hundred miles across the desert by some former soldiers of the Mormon Battalion that went directly from Los Angeles to Salt Lake.  From their wages as soldiers they purchased mules and Mexican-style packsaddles and transported the wheat to the Salt Lake Valley without wagons.<ANCHOR ID="n26-1b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-1b">See "The March of the Mormon Battalion.  Taken from the Journal of Henry Standage by F. A. Golder."  Century Company, New York, 1928.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Speaking of San Bernardino and its Mormon beginning in 1851 has prompted me to check over in my mind the settlements in Los Angeles County in 1852, the year I arrived <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:in Los Angeles from the mines in the north. From the present-day viewpoint it is almost impossible to believe that the country was so sparsely settled at that time and that under the heading of "settlements" we counted private ranchos as if each represented a town.  Wherever there was a ranch house with its accompaniment of quarters for Indian laborers and their families, it was counted on the map as a community.  And each one was indeed important to the traveler for here could be found hospitable entertainment, food, drink, fresh horses and new raiment if necessary, for a pittance or for nothing.  More than one can expect from the modern city unless one is a millionaire and pays his way fabulously.  Starting from the Pueblo de los Angeles as a focal point we had as our most prominent settlements the Mission San Fernando, Mission San Gabrie&acute;l, Mission Vieja,<ANCHOR ID="n26-3a">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-3a">"Old Mission."  The original location of the Mission San Gabrie&acute;l above Montebello on the San Gabrie&acute;l River (originally called the Ri&acute;o San Miguel).  Here the mission was founded in 1771, but the site was flooded from the river during the winter rains and the padres moved to the present location of the establishment, on high ground near the base of the mountains nine miles east of Los Angeles.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Of the ranch houses we had first, going eastward, La Puente.  Then Chino, Jurupa, and the Mormons at San Bernardino.  Toward San Diego we had first Rancho Santa Gertrudis, then the Yorba Rancho at the crossing of the Santa Ana River, the San Joaqui&acute;n Rancho beyond the Santa Ana and El Aliso near Mission San Juan Capistrano.  Going toward San Pedro we had Rancho de los Cuervos, the Domi&acute;nguez or Rancho San Pedro and the Rancho Palos Verdes.  In the rear of the present city of Long Beach was the Rancho de los Cerritos and further down the coast the Rancho de los Alamitos.  Journeying toward Santa Monica we came to the Rancho Paso de las Tijeras.<ANCHOR ID="n26-2b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: Adjoining it to the southward was the Centinela.  Then the Rancho Ballona, populated by the Machados and their kinsfolk.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-2b">"Scissors Pass."</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Along the southern base of the Cahuenga hills we had first the Rancho la Brea, then the Rancho Rodeo de las Aguas, Rancho Rincon de los Bueyes and Rancho de los Buenos Ayres.  Crossing the range and following its northern base we found the little Rancho Cahuenga, the Rancho Encino and farther on Las Vi&acute;rgines: then the Conejo, the Triu&acute;nfo and the great Malibu, the latter bordering the seacoast westward and stretching back into the mountains.</P>
166.sgm:<P>North from Los Angeles the first big ranch was the San Rafael, ancestral domain of the Verdugos.  Then northeastward was the San Pascual where the rich and beautiful city of Pasadena now stands.  Right here the author might pause to say that when he attained his twenty-first birthday he was offered the twenty thousand acres of Rancho San Pascual as a birthday gift.  He chose instead a horse and saddle.  This sounds like tall talk but it is true.  His uncle, Alexander Bell, ran his sheep over this old property of the Abila and Ga&acute;rfias families and could have bought it for a pittance had I elected to marry into a California family and settle down, as Uncle Alec desired me to do.  But the horse appealed more to my boyish imagination.  Indeed, with the five thousand dollars' worth of finest carved-leather, silver-mounted saddle and bridle that went with the steed it was reasonable to believe at the time that this gift was worth more than the San Pascual acres could ever be worth.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Following the base of the Sierra Madre toward San Fernando from the San Pascual brought one to the Rancho Tejunga.  Southward from this were the properties known as La Providencia<ANCHOR ID="n26-3b">*</ANCHOR>
166.sgm: and Los Feliz, both lying along the Los <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-3b">Location of the present town of Burbank.</NOTE>
166.sgm:<P>Other ranchos which I can recall were the San Antonio, a Lugo property extending from the Los Angeles River to the San Gabrie&acute;l and from the Mission Hills to the Rancho Cerritos; and the San Francisquito on which are now located the towns of Newhall and Saugus.  Outside of Los Angeles these ranch houses, with the little settlements around the decaying Missions, were the centers of population of the vast county of Los Angeles as it was constituted when California first became an American state.  Over the wide wilderness stretches between roamed ten of thousands of cattle and horses, the current wealth of the country.  Los Angeles itself was a little flat-roofed town surrounded by orchards and vineyards of considerable extent.  Wine-making was the big industry of the metropolis.  Outside the cultivated area of the Pueblo the only cultivated plots of any extent were around the Missions, mementoes from the industrious Franciscans.  In these vicinities grain was still planted and harvested by most primitive methods.  Wheat was cut with the small hand scythe, piled onto rawhides in a native carreta, a cart with two solid wheels and wooden axles, hauled by oxen to circular corrals and there threshed out under the feet of horses driven 'round and 'round.  The grain was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>Methods and crops have changed mightily since then, but we have suffered some very expensive experiences in our efforts to arrive at a more toney type of agriculture, or rather to graduate from plain agriculture to aristocratic horticulture.  Viticulture and wine making were just becoming staple activities yielding large remuneration when we all got it into our heads that oranges were the hope of the future and orange growing became so popular that a man without an orange grove was considered as plebeian as a man without negroes in slave times down South.  Good old orchards of staple deciduous fruits and acres of vineyards were grubbed out and reset with tiny orange trees that cost several dollars per tree.  Ten thousand dollars a year, they said, could be made off a few acres of oranges.  So the vineyardist mortgaged his land and bought orange trees.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Those that launched the orange craze and supplied the seedlings made fortunes immediately.  I remember a certain citizen, a busy, bustling little fellow who was summoned into court one day to serve as juror, and while I was in the courtroom he was drawn for service.  He put up a voluble protest to the judge for allowing his business to be interfered with.</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Your Honor," said he, "my time is worth a hundred dollars a minute and I can't afford to be detained here."</P>
166.sgm:<P>"A hundred dollars a minute!" exclaimed the Judge.  "How do you make that much?"</P>
166.sgm:<P>"Out of my orange nursery, sir.  My income now is five thousand dollars a day and I want the Court to understand that I can't afford to be detained here at two dollars a day."</P>
166.sgm:<P>This little man made a great fortune out of some thirty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>As the orange boom grew the enthusiasm of its devotees led them to make more and more extravagant claims.  From ten thousand dollars off an acre they began to talk about twenty-five thousand dollars off one acre.  This is the way they talked:</P>
166.sgm:<P>"We will have railroad communication with every city in the United States by the time our orange groves mature.  Every family in the United States will buy at least five boxes of oranges.  A box of oranges in any market in the world is worth at least five dollars.  An acre of orange trees will produce five thousand boxes of oranges.  Five times five is twenty-five.  Twenty-five thousand dollars an acre from your oranges."</P>
166.sgm:<P>Whoop and hurrah!</P>
166.sgm:<P>Just as everybody had torn every other sort of fruit tree out and planted oranges on borrowed money and often on tracts of land that couldn't be irrigated, we all heard of a better thing to plant, a surer thing, a more remunerative thing, without shadow of doubt.  Ah, the Mexican lime was that thing!  The Mexican lime would produce in three years from the seed, less than half the time required by the orange, and, oh my, the profit there was in Mexican limes! A Mexican lime tree would support a man when it was in full bearing.  All a newly married couple would need would be two Mexican lime trees.  As the family increased, plant a lime <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>About this time the silk craze struck us.  Everybody was going to become immensely rich on silk worms.  The man that could procure an armful of mulberry cuttings and find room to plant them on land that wasn't cluttered up with mere orange and lime trees was on the sure road to wealth.  The man that didn't go in for mulberry cuttings simply was a has-been.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Then came the great real estate boom and most of the orange and lime groves were grubbed up to make town lots.  We have already talked about the boom and will not dwell on the subject again.  But following the orange craze, the lime craze, the silk craze, the real estate craze, when everybody was mortgaged up to the hilt, along came a great blessing in disguise.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Belgian hare came to our rescue!  More mortgages were slapped onto property, where possible, and Belgian hares were purchased feverishly.</P>
166.sgm:<P>You could get a good Belgian hare for one hundred dollars.  A better one for two hundred.  An extra special imported hare for a thousand dollars.  Now, it was the man that didn't have a pedigreed Belgian hare that was the plebeian.  A man that did own pedigreed Belgian hares drove around in a fine carriage and pair behind a coachman.  He held his head high and looked with scorn upon his hareless neighbor.  You ought to have seen the rabbitries!  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>How they pampered the leading bucks!  Lord Lurgan, for instance.  Didn't you ever hear of Lord Lurgan, dear reader?  Why, Lord Lurgan was said to be worth three thousand dollars.  He was a big rabbit, a beautiful, prolific rabbit, was Lord Lurgan.  I confess that I once drove several miles to feast my eyes on Lord Lurgan.  Lord Lurgan had his reception days, when his rich owner would dress himself up in evening costume and receive distinguished visitors.  They would peer into the palatial hutch and expatiate on the beauty, the virility and the worth of Lord Lurgan.  As a mark of friendship to some particular visitor the proud owner would agree to dispose of one of Lord Lurgan's progeny to him for one hundred dollars, or two hundred dollars, or five hundred dollars, according to the hump on the progeny's back.  Big hump big price.</P>
166.sgm:<P>Lord Lurgan's master used to profit as much as a thousand dollars a day, 'tis said, for the use of Lord Lurgan.  That is, for allowing him to visit around, the owner receiving a certain proportion of the resultant progeny, I believe.  That is a high figure but Lord Lurgan was a hare of parts.  But alas, one day Lord Lurgan over-did himself and died.  This was at home in his own hare-em and a lot of Lady Lurgans grieved themselves to death.  Then a cat got in and killed off most of the little Lurgans, and a draught of air slipped through and gave the rest fatal colds.  The rabbit business slumped all in a few hours for one great owner.  The same sort of thing happened to a great many owners as time went on.  Belgian hares began to be worth about ten cents apiece.</P>
166.sgm:<P>The Belgian hare blessing was turning into a curse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P>All I will say is, the Lord save us from further booms of any kind.  They clog the wheels of true progress.  Los Angeles has reached an imperial position as a city and as a county, one already absolutely impregnable, but she has done so in spite of the choicest collection of booms that ever selected one locality in which to explode.</P>
166.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>Index</HEAD>
166.sgm:<P>Abila, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
166.sgm: Avila<LB>Adobe houses, 3<LB>Aerolite, excitement on Rancho Rodeo de las Aguas over a falling star, 238<LB>Africa, 164<LB>Agricultural Park, 178<LB>Alabama, 220<LB>Alameda Street, Los Angeles, 117, 190<LB>Alaska, 250<LB>Aliso Street, Los Angeles, 3, 117<LB>Allen, Gabe, 165<LB>Allen, James, 294, 295<LB>Allen, O. H., 80<LB>Alvitre, murderer, 241, 242<LB>American flag at Monterey, first raised, 207, 210<LB>American River, 297<LB>Amphibious monster, Elizabeth Lake, 204<LB>Andersonville, 80<LB>Apaches, 28<LB>Arcadia Hall, 179<LB>Arcadia Hotel, Santa Monica, 97<LB>Arcadia Street, Los Angeles, 179<LB>Arizona, 69, 114, 151, 204, 205, 211, 213, 214, 265, 266<LB>Arguello family, 4<LB>Arguello, Sergeant, 195, 198<LB>Arkansas, 218, 219<LB>Arkansas Colony, 22<LB>Arkansas River, 99<LB>Arnold, Benedict, 244<LB>Ashe, Richard P., 38<LB>Associated Press, 232, 233, 265<LB>Australia, 270<LB>Avila, Bruno, 12, 13<LB>Avila, Don&tilde;a Luisa de, 116<LB>Avila family, 301<LB>Avila, Juan, 16<LB>Baker Block, 4<LB>Baker, Robert S., 286<LB>Baldwin, John M., 91, 174<LB>Baldwin, Leon, 90, 96<LB>Baldwin, Lucky, 290<LB>Ball, Frank, 259, 260<LB>Ballona, 75<LB>Bancroft, Hubert H., 168, 171, 287, 288, 289, 290, 292; --'s <HI REND="italics">History of California</HI>
166.sgm:, 289<LB>Banks, Calabasas squatter, 184, 185, 186<LB>Banning, Phineas, 16, 235<LB>Barcelona, 70<LB>Barter, George W., 172, 173<LB>Barton, James R., 72; massacre of sheriff's posse, 74; --, 99, 100, 101; -- War, 243<LB>Bayley, Bill, 100<LB>Baxter, Captain, 139<LB>Bean brothers (Los Frijoles), 236<LB>Bean, Joshua, 224<LB>Bean, Samuel, 224<LB>Bean, Roy (The Law West of the Pecos), personality and career of a celebrated character, 223 to 236<LB>Bear River, 144<LB>Beaudry, Prudent, 277<LB>Belgian hare craze, 305, 306<LB>Bell, Alexander, 3, 150, 263, 301<LB>Bell, Jacob, 178, 179, 180<LB>Bella Union Hotel, Los Angeles, 137, 164, 208, 235, 249<LB>Bell's Addition, first realty boom in Los Angeles, 84<LB>Berry, Jim ("Doctor"), 15<LB>Bettis, Lige, 25, 28, 104<LB>Bilderrain, Jesu&acute;s, 172<LB>Biographies, ridicule of a vanity still practiced in California, 281 to 292<LB>Bill el Molacho, 234<LB>Bill el Tuerto, 234<LB>Blackfoot Indians, 145<LB>Bland, Rev. Adam, 150<LB>Boru, Brian, 8, 284, 288<LB>Boston, 118, 119, 207, 305; -- hide droghers, 236<LB>Botello, General, 173, 174<LB>Branscomb, Harvey, Calabasas squatter, 192, 193<LB>Brannan, Samuel, 295, 297<LB>Brea pits, 63<LB>Brent, John L., 74, 75<LB>Brewer, Margaret (Don&tilde;a Margarita), 46<LB>Bridger, John, 139<LB>Brier, Rev. J. W., 136, 140, 150<LB>Brier, Mrs. J. W., 143<LB>Brierly, John, 203<LB>Broderick, David C., duel with Judge Terry, 32, 36<LB>Brodie, journalist, 84<LB><HI REND="italics">Brooklyn</HI>
166.sgm:, ship, 295, 297<LB>Brown, Dave, 240, 241, 242, 244<LB>Brown, James C., 297<LB>Brown, Sam, 219<LB>Browne, J. Ross, 164, 165<LB>Buckner, Simon B., 75<LB>Bullfights, 258<LB>Butterfield stage line, 157<LB>Cahuenga, 249; -- Pass, 63, 64, 69, 70, 249; -- Hills, 301<LB>Cainesville, 294<LB>Cajon Pass, 145, 298<LB>Calabasas, sanguinary history of, 181 to 193; -- stage road, 249<LB>California, aspects under Spain and Mexico, 1, 2, 3, 4; presidios and pueblos, 2, 3; ceded by Mexico, 6; early day court procedure, amusing incidents, 121 to 126 and 153, 154, 155; early day tax collecting, amusing incidents at Gilroy, 156 to 163; American flag first raised, 207, 210; modernism imposed on medievalism, 264; gold discovered, 297<LB>California Home Guard, 81<LB>California Hundred, 81<LB>California Volunteers, 75<LB>Californians, customs and characteristics, difference from Mexicans, 1, 2, 3, 4; hospitality, 26; loss of great possessions, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 18; marriage of native girls with foreigners, 255 to 259<LB>Campeche Bay, 43<LB>Canby, E. R. S., 75, 151, 152, 228 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<LB>Cape Gerardeau, 264<LB>Cape Horn, 118, 236, 237, 259<LB>Carlisle, Robert (Bob), 235<LB>Carlos III, 250<LB>Carpenter, Lemuel, 10, 11, 12<LB>Carrillo family, 4, 116, 199<LB>Carrillo, Jose&acute; A., his famous apology to a Mormon officer, 116, 117, 118<LB>Carrillo, Judge, his unusual education and remarkable judicial decisions, 118 to 126<LB>Carrillo, Pedro, 199<LB>Carrillo, Ramo&acute;n, 106, 107, 114, 115, 116<LB>Carrillo, Sen&tilde;ora de, 119<LB>Carroll, Frank, 224<LB>Carson, Kit, 139<LB>Casa Grande, 211, 212<LB>Central America, 37, 127, 129<LB>Chagres River, 53<LB>Cherokee, 99<LB>Chihuahua, 224<LB>Chile, 299<LB>China, 258, 270, 271<LB>Chinameca, 42, 43, 46, 47, 48, 52<LB>Chinamecans, 47, 48, 49<LB>Chinatown, Los Angeles, 168 to 176<LB>Chinese, massacre of, at Los Angeles, 166, to 177; --, 208, 209, 229, 230<LB>Chiripo River, 130, 133<LB>Choy, Ah, 170, 171, 176<LB>Cie&acute;nega Creek, 29<LB>City Guards, San Francisco, 37<LB>City of the Angels, 70, 146, 164, 176<LB>Clay Street, San Francisco, 32<LB>Clifford, Pinkney, 241<LB>Coatzacoalcos, 42<LB>Coatzacoalcos River, 43, 44, 45<LB>Cockfights, 258<LB>Colorado Desert, 26, 138<LB>Coloma, 297<LB>Colombia, 57<LB>Coleman, Norman J., 129<LB>Commercial Street, Los Angeles, 3, 76, 81, 174, 179, 251, 252<LB>Compton, 116<LB>Confederate Army, 228<LB>Conkling, Roscoe, 213<LB>Cook, Grove C., 161, 162<LB>Cooke, P. St. George, 295<LB>Coronel, Antonio F., 85, 86, 88, 90, 95, 96<LB>Correa, Gumisindo, 64, 69, 70<LB><HI REND="italics">Corte&acute;z</HI>
166.sgm:, steamship, 37, 38, 39<LB>Corte&acute;z, Hernando, 43, 46, 52<LB>Cosaleacaca, 47<LB>Cosaleacacans, 48<LB>Costa Rica, 66<LB>Cota, Leonardo, 71<LB>Covarru&acute;bias, Jose&acute; M., 106<LB>Crabb, Henry A., 151<LB>Creighton, editor, 82<LB>Crocker, Charles, 168, 213<LB>Cruz, Jesu&acute;s L., 83<LB>Cucamonga, 103, 114<LB>Cunningham, James (Jim), 40<LB>Dana, Richard H., 236<LB>Da&acute;vila, Captain, 68<LB>Davis, Calabasas squatter, 187, 190, 191<LB>Davis, Jefferson, 82<LB>Dead Man's Island, 300<LB>Death Valley, 136, 137, 138, 140, 142, 143, 150<LB>Death Valley Party, 136<LB>Del Norte, 187<LB>Devil's Turnpike, The, 195<LB>Diamond Springs, 145<LB>Di&acute;az, Porfi&acute;rio, 116<LB>Digger Indians, 143<LB>Domi&acute;nguez, battle of, 116; Rancho-, 300<LB>Donner Party, 136, 138, 139<LB>Dowes, James, 37<LB>Downey, 212<LB>Downey Block, 79<LB>Downey, John G., 9, 283, 284, 287, 288<LB>Dragons, 203<LB>Drought, starvation of California herds, 9, 18, 82<LB>Drum Barracks, 75<LB>Duane, Charles P., 38<LB>Ducommon Street, Los Angeles, 76<LB>Duffy, James, 37<LB>Dummer, Samuel R., 147, 149, 150<LB>Dyches, George, 103<LB>Dye, Joe, 81<LB><HI REND="italics">Eama</HI>
166.sgm:, brig, 208<LB>El Basquo Grande, 182, 184, 188, 191, 192, 202, 204<LB>El Boticario, examples of money lending, 5 to 17<LB>El Carpintero, example of a ranchero ruined, 10, 11, 12<LB>El Dorado Bar, first American saloon in Los Angeles transformed into first Protestant church, 148, 149, 150<LB>El Jarabe, 92<LB>El Monte, 31, 76, 77, 78, 100, 181, 241, 247, 248<LB>El Molacho, 234<LB>El Paso, 228, 231<LB>El Tuerto, 234<LB>El Ranchito, 84<LB>Elizabeth Lake, tales of its hellish origin and its fabulous monster, 198 to 206<LB>Ellington, victim of Alvitre, 241<LB>Embustero, Guillermo, 198<LB>Embustero y Mentiroso, Guillermo, 194, 202, 206<LB>Emory, W. W., 117<LB>Encino Valley, 106<LB>England, rumored political designs on California, 210, 262<LB><HI REND="italics">Epitaph, The</HI>
166.sgm:, 204<LB>Eschrich, a Wurttemberger, 258<LB>Eschrich, Don&tilde;a Carlota de, 258<LB>Estudillo family, 4<LB>Estudillo, Guadalupe, 226<LB>Etchepare, tavernkeeper, 64, 70<LB>Evertson, Evert, 235<LB>Evertson, Laura, 235<LB>Etchemende, Jean, 190<LB>Fandango, 19<LB>Farragut, David W., 57<LB>Feliz, Antonio, 85, 86, 92, 95, 96<LB>Feliz, Don&tilde;a Soledad, 86, 87, 90<LB>Feliz Springs, 96<LB>Figueroa Street, Los Angeles, 83, 144<LB>First Artillery, U.S.A., 147<LB>First National Bank, Los Angeles, 288<LB>First Texas Cavalry, 219<LB>Fisk, James (Jim) Jr., 58, 59<LB>Flores, Juan, origin of Flores Revolution, 72, 73; --, 99, 243<LB>Fontes, Andre&acute;s, 73<LB>Fort Hall, 144<LB>Fort Jurupa, 298, 300<LB>Forty Fools, The, 281<LB>Forty Mile Can&tilde;on, 140<LB>Forty Thieves, The, 228<LB>Foster, Stephen C., colorful career of a Maine Yankee and Yale graduate, 240 to 245 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<LB>Fowler, Doctor, 287, 288<LB>Franciscans, their trade with Yankee ships, 236; seed for first crop of Mormon wheat in Utah derived from California missions, 299<LB>Fredericksburg, 219<LB>Free Rovers, The, 228<LB>Freeman, Dan, 12, 290<LB>Fre&acute;mont Battalion, 208<LB>Fre&acute;mont, John C., 3, 139<LB>Frisbie, John B., 256<LB>Galesburg, 138, 139; -- Party, 141, 144<LB>Gallardo, Fe&acute;lix, 81<LB>Ga&acute;rfias family, 301<LB>Ga&acute;rfias, Manuel, 116<LB>Garnier, ranchero, 188<LB>Georgia Bell Street, Los Angeles, 60<LB>Georgians, 141<LB>Gilroy, 157, 158<LB>Gilroy, John, 157<LB>Gilroy, Nicodemus, 159, 160, 161<LB>Gilroy, Sen&tilde;ora de, 160, 161<LB>Gilroy Township, 158<LB>Gold discovered in California, 297<LB><HI REND="italics">Golden Era, The</HI>
166.sgm:, 282<LB>Goller, John, 136, 137, 138<LB>Goller Mine, 137, 138<LB>Gonza&acute;lez, Juan, 243<LB>Goyeneche, Jean, 188<LB>Graff, Johann, 144<LB>Granada, 66<LB>Grand Avenue, Los Angeles, 83<LB>Granger, Louis C., 144<LB>Grant, Ulysses S., 57<LB>Gray, Wilson H., 170, 174, 176<LB>Greytown, 130, 131<LB>Griffith, Griffith J., 91 to 98<LB>Griffith, Mrs. Griffith J., 98<LB>Griffith Park, 97, 98<LB>Grizzly bears, characteristics, bear-and-bull fight at Pala described, 106 to 113<LB>Guadalupe Hidalgo, Treaty of, 6<LB>Guichicovans, 45<LB>Halleck, H. W., 57<LB>Hangtown, 9, 145<LB>Hansen, George, 251<LB>Harathzy, John (Count), 225, 226, 227<LB><HI REND="italics">Harper's Weekly</HI>
166.sgm:, 164<LB>Harris, Emil, 170, 171, 174, 176<LB>Harry, negro slave boy on the Trinity, 21, 22, 27<LB>Harte, Bret, 282<LB>Hayes, Bob, 38<LB>Hayes, Jack, 38<LB>Hawaii, 207<LB>Headquarters Saloon, The, 223, 224, 228, 235<LB>Hell's Home Stretch, 31<LB>Henderson, William (Billy), haunted by Murrieta's ghost, 35, 36<LB>Heningsen, General, 66<LB>Hick's Store, Los Angeles, 174<LB>Hide trade of early California, 236<LB>Hing, Yo, 170, 171, 176, 177<LB>Hippogriffes, 203<LB>Holmes, James (Jim), 55, 56<LB>Hollywood, 98<LB>Honduras, 43, 131<LB>Honolulu, 297<LB>Hooker, Joseph, 57<LB>Hopkins, Mark, 168<LB>Houghton, S. O., 33<LB>Houston, Sam, 220<LB>Howard, James G., 176<LB>Howard, Volney E., 191<LB>Huachuca Mountains, 204<LB>Hughes, Archbishop, 150<LB>Hughes, John H., 149, 151<LB>Hugo, Victor, 211<LB>Hunt, Captain, 139, 144<LB>Huntington, Collis P., 168, 213<LB>Huntley, Sir Harry, 56<LB><HI REND="italics">Ida Hancock</HI>
166.sgm:, tugboat, 17, 224<LB>Idaho, 137<LB>Illinois, 138, 142, 264<LB>Iowa City, 139<LB>India, 164<LB>Indian rancheria at Los Angeles, 73<LB>Indian Territory, 21, 27<LB>Indianola, 222<LB>Ingersoll, Robert G., 213<LB>Inocente, Don, 86<LB>Ireland, 8, 284, 288<LB>Irving, Washington, 211<LB>Ishem, emigrant, 142<LB>Jefferson Street, Los Angeles, 144<LB>Jenkins, Charles N., 75, 80, 81<LB>Jenkins, William W. (Bill), 13, 14, 15, 17, 101, 212, 215, 285<LB>Jersey Lily Saloon, The, 228, 229, 230, 231, 236<LB>Jesu&acute;s Mari&acute;a, town of, 224<LB>Jim the Penman, 265, 266<LB>Johnston, Albert S., 74<LB>Jones, Ap Catesby, 210<LB>Joshua trees, 269, 274<LB>Journey of Death, The, 29<LB>Jua&acute;rez, Benito, 41<LB>Jurupa, 298, 300<LB>Kansas, 273<LB><HI REND="italics">Kate Aubrey</HI>
166.sgm:, packet, 130<LB>Kearney, Denis, 208<LB>Kearny, Stephen W., 117, 296<LB>Kentucky, 80, 127, 130, 131, 133, 134<LB>Kewen, E. J. C., 76, 176<LB>King, A. J., 76, 170, 171<LB>King of Hawaii, 207<LB>King, Jack, 235<LB>King of Munster, 284<LB>King of Spain, 298<LB><HI REND="italics">Kings of the Commonwealth</HI>
166.sgm:, 287, 288<LB>Knights Templars, 197, 198<LB>Kramer's Store, Los Angeles, 76<LB>Laguna del Diablo, 195, 200, 202<LB>Lachenais, mob victim, 177, 178, 179, 180<LB>La Cie&acute;nega, 28, 29<LB>Land frauds, Peralta case, 211<LB>Land grants, legality of those issued by Pico, 263, 264<LB>Land holdings, 2<LB>Langtry, 224, 228, 229, 231, 232, 233<LB>Langtry, Lily, 228<LB>La Nopalera, 70<LB>Lawler, actor, 58<LB>Lazzarovich, John, 191<LB>Leandri, J. D., owner of a thousand ox carts, 257<LB>Leona River, 221<LB>Leonis, Michel (Miguel), 182 to 193<LB>Lick Observatory, 238<LB>Lincoln, Abraham, 75<LB>Little Salt Lake, 139<LB>Lloyd, Reuben H., 213<LB>Logan, Boone, 213<LB>Logan, Jonathan, 21<LB>Logan, Dick, 21 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:London, 268, 305<LB>Long, George E., 290<LB>Long Beach, 300<LB>Long Wharf, San Francisco, 40<LB>Lo&acute;pez, Chico, 200, 202<LB>Lord Lurgan, untimely end of a distinguished hare, 306<LB>Los Angeles, pueblo and city of, 2, 3, 4, 9, 33, 34, 35, 38, 39, 60, 63, 64, 66, 70, 71, 72, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 85, 87, 88, 89, 93, 94, 96, 98, 99, 101, 105, 106, 116, 121, 134, 136, 137, 144, 146, 147, 155, 164, 166, 168, 172, 174, 177, 179, 182, 184, 186, 187, 190, 194, 202, 205, 208, 214, 217, 218, 221, 222, 223, 224, 226, 228, 233, 234, 235, 238, 245, 256, 258, 259, 264, 265, 267, 268, 269, 270, 271, 272, 273, 274, 275, 276, 278, 300, 301, 302, 305, 307<LB>Los Angeles City Water Co., 90<LB>Los Angeles County, early mortgage records, 6, 17; --, 33, 73, 106, 114, 120, 127, 144, 177, 186, 187, 214, 240, 242, 254, 258, 292; list of towns and ranches in 1852, 299, 300, 301, 302; primitive agricultural methods, 302 <LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles News, The</HI>
166.sgm:, 174, 175<LB>Los Angeles River, 73, 85, 253, 302<LB><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Star, The</HI>
166.sgm:, 172, 174, 175<LB>Los Angeles Street, 3, 4, 172, 174, 179<LB>Los Cuervos (Cuerbos), battle of, 116<LB>Louisiana, 83, 151, 219<LB>Louisiana-Tehuantepec Co., 45<LB>Louisville, 130<LB>Love, Harry, 32, 36<LB>Lugo, Antonio M. (El Viejo), 240, 255, 256, 302<LB>Lugo family, 240, 298<LB>Lugo, Jose&acute; del Carmen, 9<LB>Machado, Augusti&acute;n, 16<LB>Machado family, 300<LB>Main Street, Los Angeles, 4, 79, 120, 147, 164, 251; Upper--, 275<LB>Maine, 148, 240, 261, 285<LB>Mac el Medico, 14<LB>Mackay, John E., 213<LB>Magee, Bill, 218, 219<LB>Magruder, John B., well known army officer plays saloonkeeper, 147 to 152<LB>Malay, 207, 215<LB>Malcolm, Henry, 64, 66, 68, 69<LB>Malinche, 43, 47, 52<LB>Manila, 207, 258<LB>Man-killers, California and Texas types contrasted, 218<LB>Mansfield, J. K. F., 57<LB>Mansfield, Josie, favorite of Jim Fisk, Jr., 58, 59<LB>Mansfield, lieut.-gov. of California, 57<LB>Marchessault, Damien, 246<LB>Mare Island Navy Yard, 57<LB>Marina, Don&tilde;a, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:--of, haunts Billy Henderson, 35, 36; --, 215, 233, 235, 243<LB>Napa County, 263<LB>Napoleon, Louis, 178<LB>Natchez, pistol expert, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38<LB>Natchez's Arms Store and Pistol Gallery, San Francisco, 32<LB>Natchez, town of, 32<LB>Natchez-Under-the-Hill, 130<LB>Natick House, Los Angeles, 79<LB>National Centennial, 289<LB>Nauvoo, 294<LB>Negro Alley (Calle de los Negros), Los Angeles, 170, 171, 173, 190<LB>Nelson, William, strange case of mind over matter, 221, 222, 223<LB>Nevada, 140<LB><HI REND="italics">New Constitution, The</HI>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<LB>Rancho San Francisquito, 143, 302<LB>Rancho San Joaqui&acute;n, 300<LB>Rancho San Pascual, 116, 301<LB>Rancho San Pedro (Domi&acute;nguez), 300<LB>Rancho San Rafael, 301<LB>Rancho San Vicente y Santa Monica, 301<LB>Rancho Santa Gertrudis, 300<LB>Rancho Tejunga, 301, 302<LB>Rancho Temescal, 127<LB>Rancho el Triu&acute;nfo, 301<LB>Rancho de las Vi&acute;rgenes, 301<LB>Rancho Yorba (Santa Ana), 300<LB>Ranchos extent of, vast herds owned, 2; loss of, by native owners, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 18, 255, 256, 257, 258, 259<LB>Rangers, 4, 19, 32, 38, 224, 233, 235<LB>Real estate, great boom of the '80s in So. Cal., examples of the craze, 267 to 277<LB>Reavis, James A. P., 212, 213, 214<LB>Reavis, Sen&tilde;ora de, 215<LB>Redman, J. W., 153<LB>Redman, R. A., 155<LB>Redondo, 208, 268, 270, 271<LB>Register of U.S. Land Office, his famous street fights, 12 to 16; his violent death, 102, 103<LB><HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of a Ranger</HI>
166.sgm:, 8, 31<LB>Reynolds, William (Bill), remarkable origin and career, 207 to 217<LB>Rezer family, 128, 129<LB>Rezer, Rafe, 127, 130, 131, 133<LB>Rhodes, Jack, 81<LB>Ri&acute;o Grande, 29, 221, 228, 229, 236<LB>Ri&acute;o Pecos, 228, 232<LB>Rivera, Felipe, 203, 204<LB>Riverside, 298<LB>Robertson, William, 142<LB>Roman, Richard, 38<LB>Romero, Fraile, author's reverend companion in Mexican adventures, 41 to 51<LB>Rosecrans, 247<LB>Ross, Bill, 38<LB>Rowland family, 289<LB>Rowland, John (Don Juan), 20, 263<LB>Rubottom, Uncle Bill, adventures of a well known Arkansan, 13, 21, 22, 24, 25, 31, 99, 100, 101; he kills Register of U.S. Land Office at Los Angeles, 102, 103; --, 104, 105, 114, 115, 116<LB>Rubottom's Company, 21, 22, 25, 31<LB>Runnels, Ran, 53, 54, 56<LB>Russ House, San Francisco, 68<LB>Sacramento, 40, 159, 160, 297<LB>Sainsevain, Louis, 246<LB>Salazar, Jose&acute;, 136<LB>Salt Lake, 138, 139, 141, 144, 294, 299; -- Valley, 299<LB>Sa&acute;nchez, Juan, 86<LB>Sanford, William B., 224<LB>Sansome, Elias, Calabasas squatter, 187, 191<LB>Sansome, John (Johnny), 219, 220<LB>Sansome Ranch, 219<LB><HI REND="italics">Savannah</HI>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<LB>Spanish Country, 137, 144, 145<LB>Spanish Trail, 139, 144<LB>Spence, E. F., 290<LB><HI REND="italics">Spiritual Conquest of California, The</HI>
166.sgm:, 194<LB>Spring Street, Los Angeles, 13, 179<LB>Squatter War, Calabasas, 182 to 192<LB>St. Elmo Hotel, Los Angeles, 120<LB>St. John, ex-governor of Kansas, 273<LB>St. Louis, 152<LB>St. Nicholas Hotel, San Francisco, 38<LB>Stanford, Leland, 168<LB>Stars and Stripes, 210, 293, 296<LB>Steadman, General, 57<LB>Stearns, Abel, 4, 148, 286<LB>Stevenson's Pioneer Regiment, 33, 256, 258<LB>Stock, gambler, 79<LB>Stockton, 40, 59<LB>Stockton, Robert F., 3, 57<LB>Stokes, Ed. S., 213<LB>Stoneman, George, 57<LB>Sturgis, Doctor, 235<LB>Sublette's Cut-off, 139<LB>Suchiltepec, 44, 45<LB>Sue, Eugene, 211<LB>Supreme Court of California, 176, 241, 242<LB>Surveyor General, 208<LB>Sutter, Johann, 297; --'s Fort, 297<LB>Tabor, John, 57<LB>Tallow mines, 238<LB>Tansy Bitters, 133, 134, 135<LB>Teguciga&acute;lpa, 131, 132<LB>Tehachepi Pass, 168<LB>Tehuantepec, 41, 42, 44, 45, 51, 52<LB>Tejunga Can&tilde;on, 89; Grand --, 92; --Mountains, 89, 90<LB>Temescal, 21, 22, 25, 26, 31; --Creek, 26<LB>Temple Block, 79, 178, 208<LB>Temple, F. P. F. (Templito), 289, 290<LB>Temple Street, Los Angeles, 179<LB>Temple &amp; Workman, bank failure and resultant tragedy, 289, 290, 291, 292<LB>Tennessee, 220<LB>Terry, David S., duel with Senator Broderick, 32, 33, 36; confined in Fort Gunnybags, 37; conspiracy to deport him, 38, 39<LB>Texas, 149, 151, 218, 219, 220, 221, 222, 224, 228, 230<LB><HI REND="italics">That Fine Young Sen&tilde;orita</HI>
166.sgm:, song, 259 to 262<LB>Thompson, policeman, 171, 172, 176<LB>Three-Fingered-Jack, 32<LB>Toler, William, 209<LB>Tombs Prison, 152<LB>Tombstone, 69, 204<LB>Trafford, John, 188<LB>Treasure trove, in Cahuenga Pass, 60 to 71; in Nicaragua, 66, 67; at San Gabrie&acute;l, 236<LB>Trinity County, 21, 22<LB>Trinity Mountains, 21; --River, 218<LB>Tucson, 28, 29, 30, 31, 151<LB>Tulare, 150; --Valley, 32<LB>Turner, Joel H., 244, 246, 248, 250, 251, 254<LB>Twain, Mark, 282<LB><HI REND="italics">Two Years Before the Mast</HI>
166.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">THE HISTORIES OF MR</HI>
166.sgm:<P>(From Old</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0081" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. BROWN'S STORY--(Continued)</P>
166.sgm:<illus entity="a166-0082" MAP="no"><CAPTION></CAPTION>
166.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
166.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
166.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">BROWN AND MR. JONES</HI>
166.sgm:<P>Engravings)</P>
166.sgm:<P><illus entity="a166-0083" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MR. JONES' STORY--(Continued)</P>
167.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-167</TITLE>
167.sgm:<TITLE>"Both sides told," or, Southern California as it is: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
167.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
167.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
167.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
167.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
167.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
167.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
167.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
167.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-912</LCCN>
167.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
167.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>14227</COPYRIGHT>
167.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>"BOTH SIDES TOLD,"</P>
167.sgm:<P>OR,</P>
167.sgm:<P>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</P>
167.sgm:<P>AS IT IS.</P>
167.sgm:<P>BY MARY C. VAIL.</P>
167.sgm:<P>PASADENA, CAL.</P>
167.sgm:<P>PUBLISHED BY WEST COAST PUBLISHING CO.,</P>
167.sgm:<P>No. 11 North Fair Oaks Avenue.</P>
167.sgm:<P>1888.</P>
167.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
167.sgm:<P>One must know both sides of any question to judge intelligently regarding it.  It cannot in any sense hurt, though it may derange the plans of some to tell the truth.  I am firmly convinced that Southern California has suffered much at the hands of its friends.  This great State possesses enough of the grand and sublime, the picturesque and lovely, to call thousands to her borders, simply to see and admire.  It has sufficient mineral and agricultural advantages to attract multitudes when half the truth is told.  It has a climate tempting to millions, and needs no exaggeration to call the invalid from his home to enjoy it, and take a new hold on life.  It has all these, and more, combined in harmonious attraction; and the simple facts, truthfully told, are all that is needed to carry us to an envied prosperity.  If we tell more than the truth, something or someone is hurt.  There are hundreds of towns in Southern California that are prosperous and deserve to be; but I suppose every one of these towns has been trumpeted to the world as the very choicest spot of all the land.  Choice, indeed, they may be; but for one man this may be the choicest, and that for another.  I would, by all means, tell the bare facts, unvarnished, and tell both sides.  Is it not true that he who knows both will not be deceived?  He that has heard but one side, will unquestionably see two when he arrives among us, and this is the man we don't want to see; for his opinion sent back will weigh too heavily in the opposite scale.  Misrepresentation will invariably bring disapprobation and disappointment.  We had better underrate the value of our land than over-rate it.</P>
167.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHTED, 1888,</P>
167.sgm:<P>BY MARY C. VAIL.</P>
167.sgm:<P>PRINTED BY</P>
167.sgm:<P>THE STAR JOB PRINTING CO.</P>
167.sgm:<P>PASADENA, CALIFORNIA.</P>
167.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>"BOTH SIDES TOLD,"<lb>
167.sgm:<P>I HAVE found it very difficult for a non-resident of Southern California to obtain correct information regarding it.  So varied is its climatic character, that it is almost impossible to give a description of the whole, that will be a truthful and intelligent delineation of a part.  On the other hand, a man familiar with the scenery, climate, soil and products of one region, while he may give an accurate report of all around him, will, as a general thing, mislead as to other places.  A description of the neighborhood of Los Angeles, or of Pasadena, will not do for San Diego, or the "Lake Town" Elsinore.  A man writing from any point must put his own individuality and that of the surrounding region into his pages, and will describe features unseen elsewhere.  The Pasadenian would enlarge upon the beauty and grandeur of mountain scenery, the wonderful growth and personal wealth of the place.  The Elsinorean, speaking from the garden grounds of his beautiful lake, would paint values unfound elsewhere.  Should he write from some parts of Los Angeles County, he might tell his friends truthfully, that he had worked in California cornfields, and had gathered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>The man who raises two crops in California in one year must learn how to do it; and, further, he must unlearn how he raised <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
167.sgm:<P>I am equally free to censure the man who, upon arriving in some sunny garden or shady orange grove in this land, goes into ecstacies over what he has found, writes home to his wife, or his mother, that he has discovered a paradise, urges them to "sell out" and migrate.</P>
167.sgm:<P>Between such men -- men of extreme ideas -- the public are confused, and get no information on which they can rely.  One should turn a deaf ear to all such information.  One cannot form a just idea of California without a daily contact with it in its changes throughout its seasons.  Much harm is being done by men who jump to conclusions from what they think they see.  Persons who could do well by selling their eastern possessions and locating here, are deterred from doing so by an unjust judgment.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>It is with the hope that I may to some extent counteract these evils that I now write.  It is nothing but just that all persons should know <HI REND="italics">both sides</HI>
167.sgm:<P>I will endeavor to weigh all questions with their counter questions in the opposite scale, and if the reader can then determine which side is the more favorable for himself or herself, allowing a cool and unbiased judgment to preside over his or her decisions, it is not likely a mistake would be made.</P>
167.sgm:<P>THE CAUSE OF THE GREAT BOOM IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA. -- A CAUTION TO INVESTORS.</P>
167.sgm:<P>It must be conceded that everyone who becomes personally and financially interested in any movement, becomes either a successful party or a disappointed victim.  I conclude, therefore, that a man who comes to Southern California and blindly invests in property here, without first knowing the foundation upon which the present excitement rests, has more faith in following the crowd than I have. Our knowledge of the issues of hundreds of schemes in all parts of our great country, where tremendous efforts have been made to make and perpetuate a boom, ought to convince us that a permanent boom must have a permanent cause.  A boom is an abnormal condition, and that condition must end unless nature has so fortified its environments as to render that condition perpetual.  And not that alone.  A city or a country that enjoys a perpetual boom, must enjoy and possess a perpetual monopoly of those environments.</P>
167.sgm:<P>Nothing is more certain than, that all investments made in a land of booms, should be made under the intelligent direction of a cool head.  People lose their better judgment when they see others rushing headlong into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>After a close and critical examination, I am convinced that the causes which have finally led Southern California into one of the most remarkable booms on record, are of the most permanent character; and yet, it does not follow that all who come here will be successful; that all do right by coming; nor that all, or half, that is told of this land is true.  There never was a time, it seems to me, when men need to be more cautious, and to examine all aspects of the California question.  It might be right for a man to move his family to this land so long as 10,000 others are moving to it annually; but if 100,000 people should move every year to this western coast, it might be an actual injury to such a man to cast his lot with the moving crowd.  I have known people to become home-sick and weary at heart, and turn back to their native land, simply because the moving throng of immigrants was so great that they were subjected to great inconvenience and expense.  It would be much better for this land if the great crowds that come here were reduced to one-fourth their numbers.  The precipitation and rush visible on all hands, seem like a giddy hurrah.  When, however, we come to examine the cause of all this flurry and excitement, I am not surprised that they exist.  Neither am I surprised that many visitors return home disappointed.  But let us endeavor to see why Southern California booms: why these vast crowds are hurrying thither.</P>
167.sgm:<P>To give the plain facts concerning this country, necessarily involves many considerations.  Nearly forty years <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>But there is one feature that all must have observed, and that is, that many who returned to their eastern homes during those early and dark days of California history, spoke in high praise of the climate and soil of this country, and many of these returned to this State as soon as railroads and other accommodations favored its development.  Thousands upon thousands of people remained here and underwent all the privations of a new country, hoping for better times.  In other words, the climate and all they found in California, were sufficient to outweigh all the pains and discomforts of that pioneer struggle, and this fact speaks volumes for the country.  Gold could not have kept the pioneer and caused him to settle in these valleys, if the climate and the soil had not been stronger inducements.  But people settled in these fertile valleys who never dreamed that the steam car would carry its load of living freight across the mountains and deserts.</P>
167.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>Men who left the fertile lands of the Mississippi valley, settled here because a stronger inducement was found.  If then, men could be induced to cross these mighty walls of rock, and these dead wastes of desert land, and all to get a home on the Pacific slope, can we marvel that such vast crowds seek the same shore, the same skies, the same climate, by rail, when every inducement is offered in luxury and comfort?  These same skies remain, and will they not remain forever?  The same climate that our fathers found still entices the adventurer and visitor, and will its inducements ever grow less?  Do they not rather increase, as wealth and energy beautify and enhance the value of every valley?  When the visitor, in less than ten days can go from the briny Atlantic and look down on the Pacific, we need not wonder that those who first went to California and returned, are now moving with their families back to the Golden State.  I mention these things, that the reader may draw his own conclusions.</P>
167.sgm:<P>One of the causes, then, that is leading thousands to this country is apparent.  Is it a transient cause?  The fact cannot be denied that California, and Southern California in particular, has a boom of world-wide notoriety; and, further, that climate and scenery are the prime causes of this boom, and are permanent.  But, right here we must observe that thousands and tens of thousands are coming, not chiefly because we have a glorious climate, but simply because we have a boom; and the boom, in turn, is more remarkable because such a class of people is flocking hither, and this then becomes a secondary cause.  Now, this class is doomed to disappointment, from the fact that this secondary cause is not a permanent one.  Southern California, in its peculiar climate and scenery, has a monopoly that is perpetual.  But this secondary cause will cease to operate as an important factor so soon as the flood strikes the shore and rebounds.  I long for this to occur, for then the temporary and secondary cause will cease, and parties who come, will then come under proper influences.  If my family had come here under this ephemeral inducement, we had ere this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>SAND-STORMS.</P>
167.sgm:<P>I had heard of California sand-storms, and when I came, saw and met one, I was convinced that Eden was not here.  They told us sand-storms were of very rare occurrence: -- once in five, seven or ten years.  I have seen two in one summer.  But what is a sand-storm?  It is simply a strong wind, just such as we have seen in the East, when dust and fine sand are lifted by the gale from the roads and parched fields and hurled across the country.  In some parts of this country, this wind amounts to more than a gale, and continues more regularly than in the East, and during its continuance is more disagreeable.  Those I have experienced lasted from midnight till midnight, during which time the fine dust penetrated every crevice of our building, and settled on everything within, just as fine snow penetrates every crack during the prevalence of a blizzard in the Northwestern States.  I can say, however, that I would greatly prefer a sand-storm to a first-class blizzard.</P>
167.sgm:<P>A day of sweeping, up-turning and cleaning-up follows the advent of a sand-storm.  It is seldom that anyone is hurt, and the grateful breeze and flood of pure sunlight is again renewed, and we move on in our regular routine of work.  In some exposed places, a considerable amount of damage was done to unfinished buildings during our last storm; but so far as I can learn the destruction of property was due to faulty construction.  I have seen a great many buildings set on wooden pillars four inches square and these pillars were not driven into the ground, but simply set on blocks and not a brace or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>I suppose it is rare that two sand-storms occur in one place in one summer, and Pasadena, situated in the protecting arms of the lofty Sierras which wall her about, is happily situated, for it is doubtless the case that she has fewer storms of this character than some of her sisters.  From a lofty eminence, the observer may see storms passing in the distance, -- not thunderstorms, for it seldom thunders in this part of the State, and lightning-rods are unknown, but storms whose accompanying clouds are simply portions of real estate on the rise and wild advance.  We are thus warned that some of our more unfortunate sister colonies are subject to these same Edenic ills.  But I say we do not dread them so greatly as I have the terrible thunder-gusts that moved over my native hills.</P>
167.sgm:<P>When the wild and terrifying artillery of the skies that rends the stoutest oak, fires innumerable barns, and kills man and beast with its deadly touch, is compared with such sand-storms as I have seen, the latter seem in a measure harmless,  There are people living here, who, when told of thunder-storms in the east, put the same estimate upon them, as the Philadelphian does upon a California sand-storm.  The natives here fear them less than the people beyond the Mississippi fear them in the distance, if I may judge from their own expressions.  At the same time, I am free to admit that a sand-storm is one of our ills, and perhaps always will be, and for all this I cannot call this a paradise.</P>
167.sgm:<P>DUST VERSUS MUD.</P>
167.sgm:<P>I might tell our Eastern friends that in the summer-time, during the long, dry season when irrigation is in order, we are abundantly blessed with dust.  Though I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>I once thought these long, dry spells would cause the feelings that a protracted drouth does in Ohio.  But I find that, as we always expect it, and above all, need it for our citrus fruits, raisins, etc., we feel contented; and since we at all times have an abundant water supply for irrigation, and can thus have rain when we want it, the dry season is hailed by the horticulturalist, and acquiesced in by all.  It must be remembered that California is the more valuable because it has a rainless summer.  Rains in the summer season would entail immense loss to the semi-tropic fruits of California.  Rains in the summer season would make the southern counties unhealthful instead of what they are.  These things cause the resident to be contented, and we look for the dry season here, just as we would for the summer in the East.  During the dusty season the house-keeper here has more work to keep her house clean; but less work from the absence of mud, both summer and winter.  She has less <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>When, however, I walk into town, unless I can find a pavement, I have to walk in dust, which all know is disagreeable.  If I take a street-car, and ride to see a friend, unless the street is sprinkled, I am so completely covered with dust as to call this another evil in this "wonderful Eden."  But we even become accustomed to this.  Who would have thought so?</P>
167.sgm:<P>Sometimes in our walk we have to cross a street where the sprinkler has done his work too well, and mud lies ahead of us.  Of course we hesitate.  Here, then, the question is practically settled.  A lady will prefer the dusty walk to the muddy one.  Then, when I remember the long muddy seasons in my native State, I cease to murmur that my Eden here is a dusty one.</P>
167.sgm:<P>DRINKING-WATER</P>
167.sgm:<P>Our drinking-water is generally drawn from the hydrant.  It is either piped from mountain springs, sometimes many miles, into reservoirs, or brought from running streams by damming up their waters into great basins; and some of the most stupendous monuments of masonry are exhibited in California in its system of irrigation and the conduction of water from its mountain sources to distant cities.</P>
167.sgm:<P>In many places wells are dug and an abundance of water thus obtained.  Artesian water is obtained in many places.  Almost all these waters are very cool and delicious in our cool or rainy season.  But they are generally quite warm in summer.  In many parts of southern California, even the well water is warmer than in other States eastward, and all pipe water is quite warm.  When drawn from the hydrant, it is about as warm as it is in the harvest field after standing an hour in the shade.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>There are, however, refrigerating houses here, where ice is manufactured, and those who desire that luxury can indulge.  Yet somehow I did lose my desire for cold water when it was difficult to obtain it.  A little self-denial in this direction soon led my thoughts away from the ice-pitcher and I am now persuaded that here is one of the secrets of the great healthfulness of Southern California: there is less indulgence in the injurious luxury of ice-cold drinks in warm weather.  The quality of our drinking-water in other respects is good.</P>
167.sgm:<P>In some places there are a number of hot springs, many of them of strong mineral character and possessing medicinal qualities.  The colony of Elsinore in San Diego county, is said to possess 80 fine hot sulphur springs.  Nearly all the water in Southern California is very "soft," and hot springs are soapy to the touch and taste like water from boiled eggs.</P>
167.sgm:<P>HOT SUMMER DAYS.</P>
167.sgm:<P>During the dry summer months the sun has peculiar power in these regions of slight elevation, where the atmosphere has greater barometric pressure.  Persons exposed to this heat would naturally send word back to their friends that California was too hot, and thus has arisen the idea that California summers are very hot.  I find, however, that when our thermometer registers 90&deg; here, it is about the same as 75&deg; or 80&deg; in the land I left.</P>
167.sgm:<P>Except in the low situations distant from the sea, there is almost a constant breeze and a very pleasant one, too.  There are places between mountain walls where this breeze does not have full sweep, and such places are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>So far as my experience and collected information goes, the greater part of the country now filling up, possesses a more pleasant summer heat than the States of the Mississippi Valley.  The sun seems hot, but it is apparently more the heat of an artificial fire than that of a sultry sun.  In the shade of an orange grove or that of a live oak, one does not suffer and long for a plunge bath in some cooling stream.</P>
167.sgm:<P>During all these summer days, the air is crisp and dry.  There is a natural tendency in the air to hinder decay.  Here I think lies another of the secrets of health and help to the consumptive.  The lungs simply cease to decay in such a clime, and while I am free to admit that I found warmer summers than I expected to, I am far from condemning them.</P>
167.sgm:<P>IRRIGATION AND CROPS.</P>
167.sgm:<P>The mountains that lift their snowy shoulders above our plains supply us with water in part.  Their granite sides are tunneled in a thousand places, and water from these is carried in ditches and pipes to the rich valleys.  Without water our land would be worthless, and with it, it is fruitful beyond measure.  Anything and everything can be grown in many of these valleys and plains, and there is no season when the farmer who can irrigate cannot work his soil.  A large farmer near the city of Los Angeles, during the past season cultivated a corn-field of 500 acres and gathered 80 bushels per acre.  Some of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>But it must not be understood that this is a <HI REND="italics">corn country</HI>
167.sgm:<P>On the other hand, the English walnut can be grown without artificial irrigation.  There are a great many walnut farms in this country.  One not far from the city of Pasadena covers 50 acres, and has been known to yield $5,000 worth of walnuts in one year.  These orchards pay well after they are eight years old.</P>
167.sgm:<P>Almost all kinds of fruits flourish well.  I have seen much fruit go to waste from over-production, since I have been here.  Peaches, apples, grapes, etc., were uncared for and left to rot during the autumn, when they might have been dried and all used up the next winter.  Apples grow without irrigation, but the fruit is much better when water is applied.  Early apples are better than late varieties.  Peaches and grapes do well without irrigation, the winter rains affording enough water.  Pears and quinces grow to perfection, with the aid of water.  Barley and wheat are the principal farm crops in this part of the State, and these are mostly grown and cut for stock.  They are sown during the winter, and need no irrigation.</P>
167.sgm:<P>It will thus be seen that water is king in Southern California.  Some of the grandest monuments of masonic and engineering skill in the development of water are exhibited in lands that would otherwise be worth nothing.  It has required an immense amount of capital to bring water down to the farmer, or the town and city.  It at once enhances the value of land, and it is sold to the farmer or consumer by the <HI REND="italics">inch</HI>
167.sgm:.  Capitalists secure a large tract of land, pipe water upon it, and sell farm land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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167.sgm:<P>By far the many who come here want to quit farming, and we do not now raise enough food to feed ourselves.  We raise oranges, lemons, figs, grapes, or raisins, etc., etc., ship them east, and buy our flour and clothing.  The great crowds who have hurried thither, seem to have come to build towns and cities, and a wonderful extent of these fertile valleys are staked off in town lots.  It certainly would have been much better if these expectant townsites were yet under the direction of the intelligent plowman.  All around the growing town-centers, land is too valuable to be devoted to farming, and the agriculturist must retire to more distant neighborhoods or use land valued at $500 to $1,000 per acre.</P>
167.sgm:<P>CLIMATE.</P>
167.sgm:<P>The delightful and healthful climate of Southern California is one of its great and permanent sources of wealth.  But the cautious new comer will tell us: "You can't live on climate!"  We hear this almost every day, and even the permanent resident in many instances simply admits the force of the argument.  Now, I can see nothing but thoughtlessness in the assertion.  We certainly can live on climate, and climate alone, so long as those who want it, seek for it and pay us for it when they have found it.</P>
167.sgm:<P>Hundreds of thousands -- I might say millions -- of dollars have been paid to Southern California for climate.  This stream of money runs through all kinds of business, and beside all marts of trade.  It tunnels the mountains and carries water to the valley, causes it to blossom like the rose, and make its people prosperous and happy.  It builds churches and schools, towns and cities, and railroads.  It brings fuel and food and lumber to our doors.  It would certainly do this if all our other claims were groundless.  Build a sanitarium in a desert, and if people rush thither for climate and pay for its use, it amounts to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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167.sgm:<P>All this must be philosophically true, and yet it was not intended that all men should live in one climate, or that more than a proper number should congregate in one place.  There are people here who would be healthier and happier if they were not here.  Those of vigorous constitution, who enjoy the cold, bracing air and winds of northern lands; those who can meet the winter's blasts with iron nerves, are those who should remain away from here.  I am glad there are such people, whom the flattering accounts of this land cannot move.  The specious pleas, the artfully contrasted "tropic gardens," and "blizzard-swept regions," "orange groves" and zero lands," etc., etc., have their legitimate effect as baits, and they are scattered everywhere, and gather many whom wiser counsel would keep at home.</P>
167.sgm:<P>In all these flaming advertisements, I have never yet seen one unpleasant feature held up to view.  They are more or less misleading.  Earth does not possess even one paradise, and yet we have them here by the scores and the hundreds, and some of them in the very places all mankind should gather.</P>
167.sgm:<P>I would that all could come and see what we have, but I cannot advise those who have good homes in which they are contented, to even attempt the journey.  Those who have ample means, and are resolved to find a semi-tropic climate, can well risk it, -- <HI REND="italics">on trial</HI>
167.sgm:<P>One very pleasant feature is the delightful nights in warm weather.  In some places a few miles distant from the sea, the sun's heat is quite as intense as in the East during the middle of the day, but the regular land and sea breeze so modifies it, that heat prostration is almost unknown.  But, however hot the days may be, the nights are cool, and one needs to sleep under blankets during most of the summer.</P>
167.sgm:<P>One would hardly expect to find winter in a semi-tropic clime, and yet men need over-coats here just as in the East.  There one wears an over-coat to keep from suffering; here he puts it on to make himself more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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167.sgm:<P>As in all other lands, Southern California experiences dispensations she does not expect.  During the past winter, when such severe storms reigned east and north, we had frost and ice, and the cold killed a great many of our tender plants.  Tomato plants that had grown and borne fruit for several years, were completely killed.  Banana bushes standing ten feet high, were killed by the frost as completely as by the touch of fire.  Our calla lilies drooped their white heads for the first time for years, and we were forcibly reminded that ours is not altogether an Eden house.</P>
167.sgm:<P>There is a greater difference between day and night temperature here than in other States east, and one frequently passes through a process of unpleasant acclimation before he has been here very long.  I have seen persons have colds and catarrh for weeks after coming.  But a little time works a cure, and when once inured, colds are no more common than elsewhere.</P>
167.sgm:<P>We have many invalids, of all kinds, -- people who come from all lands.  From what I have seen, I am persuaded that the largest part of these are benefited by coming.  Some have grown well and strong under the influence of our climate.  Many die and are borne back to their homes by surviving friends.  Enough are cured or benefited, however, to afford strong inducements for others to seek this sunny land.  At the same time that some are immediately benefited, others die sooner because of the change.  There are many places where the consumptive feels to take a new lease of life.  There is a great difference in localities as adapted to individuals.  While one person is well suited with low lands and ocean climate, another must seek elevated lands above the ocean fogs.</P>
167.sgm:<P>OUR RAINS.</P>
167.sgm:<P>Though we do not pine and long for rain as we used to in our eastern home, we are all glad when the rain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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167.sgm:<P>We do not often have protracted wet spells, as sometimes is the case in Northern California and further north on the coast, or in the Mississippi valley.  Sometimes we may have a rain of two or three days' duration, possibly longer, and occasionally such rains are productive of disastrous floods just as elsewhere.  Our rains often come at night, and the day dawns beautifully and lovely in the extreme.  I suppose we have a less number of showers in Southern California than Ohio has during an ordinary summer, certainly less than she has during a wet summer.  The farmer and horticulturist can work out of doors more than three-fourths of the winter days.</P>
167.sgm:<P>During this part of the year, we have the loveliest and serenest skies.  At night the stars come out in a pure, clear sky, and are seen in greater numbers and they gleam with a brighter lustre than they do elsewhere.  In the winter time the zodiacal light is distinctly seen here.  We have neither the bright autumnal shades of the changing leaf, nor the gloomy death of the naked forest.  True, the fig, the apple, peach, etc, cast their leaves, but the pepper tree, the eucalyptus, the orange and lemon put on their liveliest green in winter.  I miss the beautiful maple, poplar, and the fiery red gum, for these are not native here; yet I presume they would flourish in this soil if planted.</P>
167.sgm:<P>During the autumn of the Eastern country, there are gloomy days, in which one longs for change.  At such time our season is lovely beyond description, and when the long, cold, changing and fickle winter reigns in the East, we have the most delightful weather; and after a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:<P>I have not forgotten the beauties of an eastern autumn; but we glide away from our dry summers so imperceptibly into a California spring, that I do not notice their absence, except as I purposely recall them to mind.  There is so much of the lofty and grand, that milder and gentler beauties for the time being are overlooked.</P>
167.sgm:<P>FUEL</P>
167.sgm:<P>In some parts of Southern California, fuel is scarce and commands a high price.  During the winter of 1887-8, under the merciless exactions of dealers, coal and wood in cities were sold at fabulous prices, but this is not likely to occur again, as coal regions are being discovered and railroads built thereto, and forest trees are being planted which, in a few years will afford fuel in abundance.  A farmer can raise his own fuel in a short time.  In the mountains there is generally plenty of wood.  Pines, juniper, cedar, live oaks, sycamore, cotton-wood, etc.  When, however, a city grows suddenly up at the mountains' base, such fuel becomes exhausted and a demand for a distant product arises, which can only be supplied by railroads.  In some parts of Southern California petroleum and its products afford promise for an abundance of fuel.  Near the new town of Carlton, 30 miles east of the city of Los Angeles, are immense deposits of asphaltum.  It has oozed from the hills and spread out below, revealing the fact that behind this specie of carbon exists abundant beds of fuel in some form.</P>
167.sgm:<P>I write thus of Carlton, for it has seemed to me that here the man who is seeking a home can find it to his taste.  Fuel in abundance and all around one vast plain of the nicest farming land I have seen in the state.  These lands remind me of the fertile fields of Iowa and Kansas.  Thousands of sheep graze upon them, and yet the settlement is so new that the coyote still chatter at night around the corrall.  It is just opened to settlement and with the exception of occasional winds, is as free <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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167.sgm:<P>CAUTION TO LABORERS.</P>
167.sgm:<P>There is an abundant need of labors in all this country, but I find that such vast crowds come hither seeking employment that even this is overdone.  In the winter multitudes flock to Southern California from all regions.  All kinds of mechanics are here in great numbers, and the most of these get work at good wages, but I have seen carpenters, blacksmiths and common work-hands utterly fail to get work until forced to work at low wages.  Good skilled laborers are in demand, however, and can generally find employment.  Those who come to enter as clerks in dry goods stores and kindred places are more numerous than the demand.</P>
167.sgm:<P>There is a class of young men who had better not come here -- such as do not like to work at home, who were born tired, and who, upon arriving here, make their preferences the ruling power; who won't work unless they can go on the "near side."  We want men and women who can enter upon pioneer work, and develop country yet lying as waste.  So much of this country has as yet been untried, which must in future play an active part in the state's development.  California is a very large state.  Los Angeles county is about as large as Massachusetts.  San Bernardino county is three times as large as that state.  Hesperia valley is as large as Rhode Island, and I suppose the great San Bernardino valley could contain and support 5,000,000 people, and it is not likely that the tide of immigration will cease till it is filled.  But this land now needs the sturdy and noble working man.  He is in the minority, and it is him we must have to make a solid empire along these great valleys.  The pleasure-seeker and the speculator now rule the day.  Hence the high price of so many of the commodities of life.  So many of this class are now here as to give tone and direction to different lines of trade.  If <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
167.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
167.sgm:we had had during the past season men who had taken care of the immense amount of fruit that simply rotted on the ground or dried on the trees and vines, it would have secured to this country a vast amount of money that now goes out of it.  I know of peach orchards of more than 50 acres that were almost unattended to simply because the owner had other work that paid him better.  Men who come here and devote their time to the culture and gathering and drying or canning of fruit will do well.  <HI REND="italics">I have not seen an evaporator in this country for drying fruit</HI>
167.sgm:<P>TO THE INVALID.</P>
167.sgm:<P>It must be conceded that Southern California is peculiarly favorable to persons afflicted with lung disease.  We have seen so many persons, both male and female, apparently in the last stages of consumption begin to improve soon after coming here, -- some of these getting so much better as to go into business in this country, that I can no longer hesitate to commend this climate to invalids of this class.  Persons suffering with asthma have been cured.  Catarrh yields about in the same proportion to influences of dry situations.  People afflicted with rheumatism have been benefited at the hot sulphur springs.  But I know from personal experience that our damp orange groves in winter, beautiful as they are, are not suitable places for the rheumatic, or one suffering from neuralgic affections.  But the warm sunny mountain side, beyond the fogs of the sea, generally confers temporary if not permanent benefit.  But while, in a general way we must credit our clime for the great good it does, facts constrain me to say, that here we are subject to the same ills that all flesh is heir to in other places.  All consumptives are not cured.  Some die the sooner for their coming.  Some get worse, until the invalid, moving about, finally discovers some favorable location adapted to his or her case, when improvement begins.  The consumptive will soon discover whether the air he breathes suits him.  There are many places where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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167.sgm:<P>CONCLUSION.</P>
167.sgm:<P>In closing this little volume let me say to all who have made up their minds to come to Southern California to weigh as nearly as they can all possibilities.  Because some have reaped a rich harvest in a very short time after coming here, do not conclude that you can do the same thing.  Come rather with the intention to work your way; wealth is not gathered without effort, and oft-times not with it.  You will be subject to the same diseases you have faced elsewhere, but certainly not so frequently nor so generally.</P>
167.sgm:<P>Now, I presume the reader has discovered that I have leaned strongly to the California side of this problem.  Well, I have written as I have felt.  Knowing that there are multitudes who will come hither, I have endeavored to let them see a little of what they will experience.  Some will be disappointed, others charmed; some will return, others remain.  But I would say to one and all: If you have the means to come, come and see.  The visit and the experience will do you good.  It will settle the question in your own mind, about as it should be settled.</P>
168.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-168</TITLE>
168.sgm:<TITLE>Our Italy, by Charles Dudley Warner: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
168.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
168.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
168.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
168.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
168.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
168.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
168.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-915</LCCN>
168.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
168.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>9377</COPYRIGHT>
168.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SANTA BARBARA</P>
168.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">OUR ITALY</HI>
168.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">BY CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER</HI>
168.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Author of Their Pilgrimage, Studies in</HI>
168.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">the South and West, A Little Journey</HI>
168.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">in the World...Profusely Illustrated</HI>
168.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">NEW YORK</HI>
168.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE</HI>
168.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">M DCCC XCI</HI>
168.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<P>Copyright, 1891, by HARPER &amp; BROTHERS.</P>
168.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">All rights reserved</HI>
168.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>CHAP.<HSEP>PAGE<LB>I.  HOW OUR ITALY IS MADE<HSEP>1<LB>II.  OUR CLIMATIC AND COMMERCIAL MEDITERRANEAN<HSEP>10<LB>III.  EARLY VICISSITUDES.--PRODUCTIONS.--SANITARY CLIMATE<HSEP>24<LB>IV.  THE WINTER OF OUR CONTENT<HSEP>42<LB>V.  HEALTH AND LONGEVITY<HSEP>52<LB>VI.  IS RESIDENCE HERE AGREEABLE?<HSEP>65<LB>VII.  THE WINTER ON THE COAST<HSEP>72<LB>VIII.  THE GENERAL OUTLOOK.--LAND AND PRICES<HSEP>90<LB>IX.  THE ADVANTAGES OF IRRIGATION<HSEP>99<LB>X.  THE CHANCE FOR LABORERS AND SMALL FARMERS<HSEP>107<LB>XI.  SOME DETAILS OF THE WONDERFUL DEVELOPMENT<HSEP>114<LB>XII.  HOW THE FRUIT PERILS WERE MET.--FURTHER DETAILS OF LOCALITIES<HSEP> 128<LB>XIII.  THE ADVANCE OF CULTIVATION SOUTHWARD<HSEP>140<LB>XIV.  A LAND OF AGREEABLE HOMES<HSEP>146<LB>XV.  SOME WONDERS BY THE WAY.--YOSEMITE.--MARIPOSA TREES.  --MONTEREY<HSEP>148<LB>XVI.  FASCINATIONS OF THE DESERT.--THE LAGUNA PUEBLO<HSEP>163<LB>XVII.  THE HEART OF THE DESERT<HSEP>177<LB>XVIII.  ON THE BRINK OF THE GRAND CAN&tilde;ON.--THE UNIQUE MARVEL OF NATURE<HSEP>189<LB>APPENDIX<HSEP>201<LB>INDEX<HSEP>219</P>
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168.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>ILLUSTRATIONS.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>SANTA BARBARA<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
168.sgm:<LB>PAGE<LB>MOJAVE DESERT<HSEP>3<LB>MOJAVE INDIAN<HSEP>4<LB>MOJAVE INDIAN<HSEP>5<LB>BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF RIVERSIDE<HSEP>7<LB>SCENE IN SAN BERNARDINO<HSEP>11<LB>SCENES IN MONTECITO AND LOS ANGELES<HSEP>13<LB>FAN-PALM, LOS ANGELES<HSEP>16<LB>YUCCA-PALM, SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>17<LB>MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE<HSEP>21<LB>AVENUE LOS ANGELES<HSEP>27<LB>IN THE GARDEN AT SANTA BARBARA MISSION<HSEP>31<LB>SCENE AT PASADENA<HSEP>35<LB>LIVE-OAK NEAR LOS ANGELES<HSEP>39<LB>MIDWINTER, PASADENA<HSEP>53<LB>A TYPICAL GARDEN, NEAR SANTA ANA<HSEP>57<LB>OLD ADOBE HOUSE, POMONA<HSEP>61<LB>FAN-PALM, FERNANDO ST. LOS ANGELES<HSEP>63<LB>SCARLET PASSION-VINE<HSEP>68<LB>ROSE-BUSH, SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>73<LB>AT AVALON, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND<HSEP> 77<LB>HOTEL DEL CORONADO<HSEP>83<LB>OSTRICH YARD, CORONADO BEACH<HSEP>86<LB>YUCCA-PALM<HSEP>92<LB>DATE-PALM<HSEP>93<LB>RAISIN-CURING<HSEP>101<LB>IRRIGATION BY ARTESIAN-WELL SYSTEM<HSEP>104<LB>IRRIGATION BY PIPE SYSTEM<HSEP>105</P>
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168.sgm:<P>GARDEN SCENE, SANTA ANA<HSEP>110<LB>A GRAPE-VINE, MONTECITO VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>116<LB>IRRIGATING AN ORCHARD<HSEP>120<LB>ORANGE CULTURE<HSEP>121<LB>IN A FIELD OF GOLDEN PUMPKINS<HSEP>126<LB>PACKING CHERRIES, POMONA<HSEP>131<LB>OLIVE-TREES SIX YEARS OLD<HSEP>136<LB>SEXTON NURSERIES, NEAR SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>141<LB>SWEETWATER DAM<HSEP>144<LB>THE YOSEMITE DOME<HSEP>151<LB>COAST OF MONTEREY<HSEP>155<LB>CYPRESS POINT<HSEP> 156<LB>NEAR SEAL ROCK<HSEP>157<LB>LAGUNA-FROM THE SOUTH-EAST<HSEP>159<LB>CHURCH AT LAGUNA<HSEP>164<LB>TERRACED HOUSES, PUEBLO OF LAGUNA<HSEP>167<LB>GRAND CAN&tilde;ON THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM POINT SUBLIME<HSEP>171<LB>INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH AT LAGUNA<HSEP>174<LB>GRAND CAN&tilde;ON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW OPPOSITE POINT SUBLIME<HSEP>179<LB>TOURISTS IN THE COLORADO CAN&tilde;ON<HSEP>183<LB>GRAND CAN&tilde;ON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM THE HANSE TRAIL<HSEP>191</P>
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168.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.<LB>HOW OUR ITALY IS MADE.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>THE traveller who descends into Italy by an Alpine pass never forgets the surprise and delight of the transition.  In an hour he is whirled down the slopes from the region of eternal snow to the verdure of spring or the ripeness of summer.  Suddenly--it may be at a turn in the road--winter is left behind; the plains of Lombardy are in view; the Lake of Como or Maggiore gleams below; there is a tree; there is an orchard; there is a garden; there is a villa overrun with vines; the singing of birds is heard; the air is gracious; the slopes are terraced, and covered with vineyards; great sheets of silver sheen in the landscape mark the growth of the olive; the dark green orchards of oranges and lemons are starred with gold; the lusty fig, always a temptation as of old, leans invitingly over the stone wall; everywhere are bloom and color under the blue sky; there are shrines by the way-side, chapels on the hill; one hears the melodious bells, the call of the vine-dressers, the laughter of girls.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>The contrast is as great from the Indians of the Mojave Desert, two types of which are here given, to the vine-dressers of the Santa Ana Valley.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Italy is the land of the imagination, but the sensation on first beholding it from the northern heights, aside from its associations of romance and poetry, can be repeated in our own land by whoever will cross the burning desert of Colorado, or the savage wastes of the Mojave wilderness of stone and sage-brush, and come suddenly, as he must come by train, into the bloom of Southern California.  Let us study a little the physical conditions.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The bay of San Diego is about three hundred miles east of San Francisco.  The coast line runs southeast, but at Point Conception it turns sharply east, and then curves south-easterly about two hundred and fifty miles to the Mexican coast boundary, the extreme south-west limits of the United States, a few miles below San Diego.  This coast, defined by these two limits, has a southern exposure on the sunniest of oceans.  Off this coast, south of Point Conception, lies a chain of islands, curving in position in conformity with the shore, at a distance of twenty to seventy miles from the main-land.  These islands are San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, Anacapa, Santa Barbara, San Nicolas, Santa Catalina, San Clemente, and Los Coronados, which lie in Mexican waters.  Between this chain of islands and the mainland is Santa Barbara Channel, flowing northward.  The great ocean current from the north flows past Point Conception like a mill-race, and makes a suction, or a sort of eddy.  It approaches nearer the coast in Lower California, where the return current, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:which is much warmer, flows northward and westward along the curving shore.  The Santa Barbara Channel, which may be called an arm of the Pacific, flows by <illus entity="a168-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MOJAVE DESERT.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The southern and western boundary of Southern California is this mild Pacific sea, studded with rocky and picturesque islands.  The northern boundary of this region is ranges of lofty mountains, from five thousand to eleven thousand feet in height, some of them always snow-clad, which run eastward from Point Conception nearly to the Colorado Desert.  They are parts of the Sierra Nevada range, but they take <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The Point Arguilles, which is above Point Conception, by the aid of the outlying island, deflects the cold current from the north off the coast of Southern California, and the mountain ranges from Point Conception east divide the State of California into two climatic regions, the southern having more warmth, less rain and fog, milder winds, and less variation of daily temperature than the climate of Central California to the north.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
168.sgm: Other striking climatic conditions are produced by the daily interaction of the Pacific Ocean and the Colorado Desert, infinitely diversified in minor particulars by the exceedingly broken character of the region--a jumble of bare mountains, fruitful foot-hills, and rich valleys.  It would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">For these and other observations upon physical and climatic conditions I am wholly indebted to Dr. P. C. Remondino and Mr. T. S. Van Dyke, of San Diego, both scientific and competent authorities.</NOTE>
168.sgm:<P>The United States has here, then, a unique corner of the earth, without its like in its own vast territory, and unparalleled, so far as I know, in the world.  Shut off from sympathy with external conditions by the giant mountain ranges and the desert wastes, it has its own climate unaffected by cosmic changes.  Except a tidal wave from Japan, nothing would seem to be able to affect or disturb it.  The whole of Italy feels more or less the climatic variations of the rest of Europe.  All our Atlantic coast, all our interior basin from Texas to Manitoba, is in climatic sympathy.  Here is a region larger than New England which manufactures its own weather and refuses to import any other.</P>
168.sgm:<P>With considerable varieties of temperature according to elevation or protection from the ocean breeze, its climate is nearly, on the whole, as agreeable as that of the Hawaiian Islands, though pitched in a lower key, and with greater variations between day and night.  The key to its peculiarity, aside from its southern exposure, is the Colorado Desert.  That desert, waterless and treeless, is cool at night and intolerably hot in the daytime, sending up a vast column of hot air, which cannot escape eastward, for Arizona manufactures a like column.  It flows high above the mountains westward till it strikes the Pacific and parts with its heat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>"The air, heated on the western slopes by the sea, would by rising produce considerable suction, which could be filled only from the sea, but that alone would not make the sea-breeze as dry as it is.  The principal suction is caused by the rising of heated air from the great desert.... On the top of old Grayback <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF RIVERSIDE.</P>
168.sgm:(in San Bernardino) one can feel it [this breeze] setting westward, while in the can&tilde;ons, 6000 feet below, it is blowing eastward....All over Southern California the conditions of this breeze are about the same, the great Mojave Desert and the valley of the San Joaquin above operating in the same way, assisted by interior <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>This desert-born breeze explains a seeming anomaly in regard to the humidity of this coast.  I have noticed on the sea-shore that salt does not become damp on the table, that the Portuguese fishermen on Point Loma are drying their fish on the shore, and that while the hydrometer gives a humidity as high as seventy-four, and higher at times, and fog may prevail for three or four days continuously, the fog is rather "dry," and the general impression is that of a dry instead of the damp and chilling atmosphere such as exists in foggy times on the Atlantic coast.</P>
168.sgm:<P>"From the study of the origin of this breeze we see," says Mr. Van Dyke, "why it is that a wind coming from the broad Pacific should be drier than the dry land-breezes of the Atlantic States, causing no damp walls, swelling doors, or rusting guns, and even on the coast drying up, without salt or soda, meat cut in strips an inch thick and fish much thicker."</P>
168.sgm:<P>At times on the coast the air contains plenty of moisture, but with the rising of this breeze the moisture decreases instead of increases.  It should be said also that this constantly returning current of air is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.<LB>OUR CLIMATIC AND COMMERCIAL MEDITERRANEAN.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>WINTER as we understand it east of the Rockies does not exist.  I scarcely know how to divide the seasons.  There are at most but three.  Spring may be said to begin with December and end in April; summer, with May (whose days, however, are often cooler than those of January), and end with September; while October and November are a mild autumn, when nature takes a partial rest, and the leaves of the deciduous trees are gone.  But how shall we classify a climate in which the strawberry (none yet in my experience equal to the Eastern berry) may be eaten in every month of the year, and ripe figs may be picked from July to March?  What shall I say of a frost (an affair of only an hour just before sunrise) which is hardly anywhere severe enough to disturb the delicate heliotrope, and even in the deepest valleys where it may chill the orange, will respect the bloom of that fruit on contiguous ground fifty or a hundred feet higher?  We boast about many things in the United States, about our blizzards and our cyclones, our inundations and our areas of low pressure, our hottest and our coldest places in the world, but what can we say for this little corner which is practically frostless, and yet never had a sunstroke, knows nothing of thunder-storms and lightning, never experienced a cyclone, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SCENE IN SAN BERNARDINO.</P>
168.sgm:<P>This southward-facing portion of California is irrigated by many streams of pure water rapidly falling from the mountains to the sea.  The more important are the Santa Clara, the Los Angeles and San Gabriel, the Santa Ana, the Santa Margarita, the San Luis Rey, the San Bernardo, the San Diego, and, on the Mexican border, the Tia Juana.  Many of them go dry or flow underground in the summer months (or, as the Californians say, the bed of the river gets on top), but most of them can be used for artificial <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Southern California has been slowly understood even by its occupants, who have wearied the world with boasting of its productiveness.  Originally it was a vast cattle and sheep ranch.  It was supposed that the land was worthless except for grazing.  Held in princely ranches of twenty, fifty, one hundred thousand acres, in some cases areas larger than German principalities, tens of thousands of cattle roamed along the watercourses and over the mesas, vast flocks of sheep cropped close the grass and trod the soil into hard-pan.  The owners exchanged cattle and sheep for corn, grain, and garden vegetables; they had no faith that they could grow cereals, and it was too much trouble to procure water for a garden or a fruit orchard.  It was the firm belief that most of the rolling mesa land was unfit for cultivation, and that neither forest nor fruit trees would grow without irrigation.  Between Los Angeles and Redondo Beach is a ranch of 35,000 acres.  Seventeen years ago it was owned by a Scotchman, who used the whole of it as a sheep ranch.  In selling it to the present owner he warned him not to waste time by attempting to farm it; he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SCENES IN MONTECITO AND LOS ANGELES.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>On this route to the sea the road is lined with gardens.  Nothing could be more unpromising in appearance than this soil before it is ploughed and pulverized by the cultivator.  It looks like a barren waste.  We passed a tract that was offered three years ago for twelve dollars an acre.  Some of it now is rented to Chinamen at thirty dollars an acre; and I saw one field of two acres off which a Chinaman has sold in one season $750 worth of cabbages.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The truth is that almost all the land is wonderfully productive if intelligently handled.  The low ground has water so near the surface that the pulverized soil will draw up sufficient moisture for the crops; the mesa, if sown and cultivated after the annual rains, matures grain and corn, and sustains vines and fruit-trees.  It is singular that the first settlers should never have discovered this productiveness.  When it became apparent--that is, productiveness without artificial watering--there spread abroad a notion that irrigation generally was not needed.  We shall have occasion to speak of this more in detail, and I will now only say, on good authority, that while cultivation, not to keep down the weeds only, but to keep the soil stirred and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The history of the extension of cultivation in the last twenty and especially in the past ten years from the foot-hills of the Sierra Madre in Los Angeles and San Bernardino counties southward to San Diego is very curious.  Experiments were timidly tried.  Every acre of sand and sage-bush reclaimed southward was supposed to be the last capable of profitable farming or fruit-growing.  It is unsafe now to say of any land that has not been tried that it is not good.  In every valley and on every hill-side, on the mesas and in the sunny nooks in the mountains, nearly anything will grow, and the application of water produces marvellous results.  From San Bernardino and Redlands, Riverside, Pomona, Ontario, Santa Anita, San Gabriel, Pasadena, all the way to Los Angeles, is almost a continuous fruit garden, the green areas only emphasized by wastes yet unreclaimed; a land of charming cottages, thriving towns, hospitable to the fruit of every clime; a land of perpetual sun and ever-flowing breeze, looked down on by purple mountain ranges tipped here and there with enduring snow.  And what is in progress here will be seen before long in almost every part of this wonderful land, for conditions of soil and climate are essentially everywhere the same, and capital is finding out how to store in and bring from the fastnesses of the mountains rivers of clear <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FAN-PALM, LOS ANGELES.</P>
168.sgm:<P>If the reader will look upon the map of California he will see that the eight counties that form Southern California--San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, Ventura, Kern, Los Angeles, San Bernardino, Orange, and San Diego--appear very mountainous.  He will also notice that the eastern slopes of San Bernardino and San Diego are deserts.  But this is an immense area.  San Diego County alone is as large as Massachusetts, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:Connecticut, and Rhode Island combined, and the amount of arable land in the valleys, on the foot-hills, on the rolling mesas, is enormous, and capable of sustaining a dense population, for its fertility and its yield to the acre under cultivation are incomparable.  The reader will also notice another thing.  With the railroads now built and certain to be built through all this diversified region, round from the Santa Barbara Mountains to the San Bernardino, the San Jacinto, and <illus entity="a168-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>YUCCA-PALM, SANTA BARBARA.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>Here is our Mediterranean!  Here is our Italy!  It is a Mediterranean without marshes and without malaria, and it does not at all resemble the Mexican Gulf, which we have sometimes tried to fancy was like the classic sea that laves Africa and Europe.  Nor is this region Italian in appearance, though now and then some bay with its purple hills running to the blue sea, its surrounding mesas and canons blooming in semi-tropical luxuriance, some conjunction of shore and mountain, some golden color, some white light and sharply defined shadows, some refinement of lines, some poetic tints in violet and ashy ranges, some ultramarine in the sea, or delicate blue in the sky, will remind the traveller of more than one place of beauty in Southern Italy and Sicily.  It is a Mediterranean with a more equable climate, warmer winters and cooler summers, than the North Mediterranean shore can offer; it is an Italy whose mountains and valleys give almost every variety of elevation and temperature.</P>
168.sgm:<P>But it is our commercial Mediterranean.  The time is not distant when this corner of the United States will produce in abundance, and year after year without failure, all the fruits and nuts which for a thousand years the civilized world of Europe has looked to the Mediterranean to supply.  We shall not need any more to send over the Atlantic for raisins, English walnuts, almonds, figs, olives, prunes, oranges, lemons, limes, and a variety of other things which we know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>It will need further experiment to determine what are the more profitable products of this soil, and it will take longer experience to cultivate them and send them to market in perfection.  The pomegranate and the apple thrive side by side, but the apple is not good here unless it is grown at an elevation where frost is certain and occasional snow may be expected.  There is no longer any doubt about the peach, the nectarine, the pear, the grape, the orange, the lemon, the apricot, and so on; but I believe that the greatest profit will be in the products that cannot be grown elsewhere in the United States--the products to which we have long given the name of Mediterranean--the olive, the fig, the raisin, the hard and soft shell almond, and the walnut.  The orange will of course be a staple, and constantly improve its reputation as better varieties are raised, and the right amount of irrigation to produce the finest and sweetest is ascertained.</P>
168.sgm:<P>It is still a wonder that a land in which there was no indigenous product of value, or to which cultivation could give value, should be so hospitable to every sort of tree, shrub, root, grain, and flower that can be brought here from any zone and temperature, and that many of these foreigners to the soil grow here <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:with a vigor and productiveness surpassing those in their native land.  This bewildering adaptability has misled many into unprofitable experiments, and the very rapidity of growth has been a disadvantage.  The land has been advertised by its monstrous vegetable productions, which are not fit to eat, and but testify to the fertility of the soil; and the reputation of its fruits, both deciduous and citrus, has suffered by specimens sent to Eastern markets whose sole recommendation was size.  Even in the vineyards and orange orchards quality has been sacrificed to quantity.  Nature here responds generously to every encouragement, but it cannot be forced without taking its revenge in the return of inferior quality.  It is just as true of Southern California as of any other land, that hard work and sagacity and experience are necessary to successful horticulture and agriculture, but it is undeniably true that the same amount of well-directed industry upon a much smaller area of land will produce more return than in almost any other section of the United States.  Sensible people do not any longer pay much attention to those tempting little arithmetical sums by which it is demonstrated that paying so much for ten acres of barren land, and so much for planting it with vines or oranges, the income in three years will be a competence to the investor and his family.  People do not spend much time now in gaping over abnormal vegetables, or trying to convince themselves that wines of every known variety and flavor can be produced within the limits of one flat and well-watered field.  Few now expect to make a fortune by cutting arid land up into twenty-feet lots, but notwithstanding the extravagance of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>Land cannot be called dear at one hundred or one thousand dollars an acre if the annual return from it is fifty or five hundred dollars.  The climate is most agreeable the year through.  There are no unpleasant months, and few unpleasant days.  The eucalyptus grows so fast that the trimmings from the trees of a small grove or highway avenue will in four or five years furnish a family with its firewood.  The strong, fattening alfalfa gives three, four, five, and even six harvests a year.  Nature needs little rest, and, with the encouragement of water and fertilizers, apparently none.  But all this prodigality and easiness of life detracts a little from ambition.  The lesson has been slowly learned, but it is now pretty well conned, that hard work is as necessary here as elsewhere to thrift and independence.  The difference between this and many other parts of our land is that nature seems to work with a man, and not against him.</P>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.<LB>EARLY VICISSITUDES.--PRODUCTIONS.--SANITARY CLIMATE.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA has rapidly passed through varied experiences, and has not yet had a fair chance to show the world what it is.  It had its period of romance, of pastoral life, of lawless adventure, of crazy speculation, all within a hundred years, and it is just now entering upon its period of solid, civilized development.  A certain light of romance is cast upon this coast by the Spanish voyagers of the sixteenth century, but its history begins with the establishment of the chain of Franciscan missions, the first of which was founded by the great Father Junipero Serra at San Diego in 1769.  The fathers brought with them the vine and the olive, reduced the savage Indians to industrial pursuits, and opened the way for that ranchero and adobe civilization which, down to the coming of the American, in about 1840, made in this region the most picturesque life that our continent has ever seen.  Following this is a period of desperado adventure and revolution, of pioneer State-building; and then the advent of the restless, the cranky, the invalid, the fanatic, from every other State in the Union.  The first experimenters in making homes seem to have fancied that they had come to a ready-made elysium--the idle man's heaven.  They seem to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The bubble collapsed as suddenly as it expanded.  Many were ruined, and left the country.  More were merely ruined in their great expectations.  The speculation was in town lots.  When it subsided it left the climate as it was, the fertility as it was, and the value of arable land not reduced.  Marvellous as the boom was, I think the present recuperation is still more wonderful.  In 1890, to be sure, I miss the bustle of the cities, and the creation of towns in a week under the hammer of the auctioneer.  But in all the cities, and most of the villages, there has been growth in substantial buildings, and in the necessities of civic life--good sewerage, water supply, and general organization; while the country, as the acreage of vines and oranges, wheat and barley, grain and corn, and the shipments by rail testify, has improved more than at any other period, and commerce is beginning to feel the impulse of a genuine prosperity, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>There is immense rivalry between different sections.  Every Californian thinks that the spot where his house stands enjoys the best climate and is the most fertile in the world; and while you are with him you think he is justified in his opinion; for this rivalry is generally a wholesome one, backed by industry.  I do not mean to say that the habit of tall talk is altogether lost.  Whatever one sees he is asked to believe is the largest and best in the world.  The gentleman of the whip who showed us some of the finest places in Los Angeles--places that in their wealth of flowers and semi-tropical gardens would rouse the enthusiasm of the most jaded traveller--was asked whether there were any finer in the city.  "Finer?  Hundreds of them;" and then, meditatively and regretfully, "I should not dare to show you the best."  The semi-ecclesiastical custodian of the old adobe mission of San Gabriel explained to us the twenty portraits of apostles on the walls, all done by Murillo.  As they had got out of repair, he had them all repainted by the best artist.  "That one," he said, simply, "cost ten dollars.  It often costs more to repaint a picture than to buy an original."</P>
168.sgm:<P>The temporary evils in the train of the "boom" are fast disappearing.  I was told that I should find the country stagnant.  Trade, it is true, is only slowly coming in, real-estate deals are sleeping, but in all avenues of solid prosperity and productiveness the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AVENUE LOS ANGELES.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>In secluded valleys in the interior the thermometer rises in the daytime to 85&deg;, 90&deg;, and occasionally 100&deg;, but I have found no place in them where there was not daily a refreshing breeze from the ocean, where the dryness of the air did not make the heat seem much less than it was, and where the nights were not agreeably cool.  My belief is that the summer climate of Southern California is as desirable for pleasure-seekers, for invalids, for workmen, as its winter climate.  It seems to me that a coast temperature 60&deg; to 75&deg;, stimulating, without harshness or dampness, is about the perfection of summer weather.  It should be said, however, that there are secluded valleys which become very hot in the daytime in midsummer, and intolerably dusty.  The dust is the great annoyance everywhere.  It gives the whole landscape an ashy tint, like some of our Eastern fields and waysides in a dry August.  The verdure and the wild flowers of the rainy season disappear entirely.  There is, however, some picturesque compensation for this dust and lack of green.  The mountains and hills and great plains take on wonderful hues of brown, yellow, and red.</P>
168.sgm:<P>I write this paragraph in a high chamber in the Hotel del Coronado, on the great and fertile beach in front of San Diego.  It is the 2d of June.  Looking southward, I see the great expanse of the Pacific <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:Ocean, sparkling in the sun as blue as the waters at Amalfi.  A low surf beats along the miles and miles of white sand continually, with the impetus of far-off seas and trade-winds, as it has beaten for thousands of years, with one unending roar and swish, and occasional shocks of sound as if of distant thunder on the shore.  Yonder, to the right, Point Loma stretches its sharp and rocky promontory into the ocean, purple in the sun, bearing a light-house on its highest elevation.  From this signal, bending in a perfect crescent, with a silver rim, the shore sweeps around twenty-five miles to another promontory running down beyond Tia Juana to the Point of Rocks, in Mexican territory.  Directly in front--they say eighteen miles away, I think five sometimes, and sometimes a hundred--lie the islands of Coronado, named, I suppose, from the old Spanish adventurer Vasques de Coronado, huge bulks of beautiful red sandstone, uninhabited and barren, becalmed there in the changing blue of sky and sea, like enormous mastless galleons, like degraded icebergs, like Capri and Ischia.  They say that they are stationary.  I only know that when I walk along the shore towards Point Loma they seem to follow, until they lie opposite the harbor entrance, which is close by the promontory; and that when I return, they recede and go away towards Mexico, to which they belong.  Sometimes, as seen from the beach, owing to the difference in the humidity of the strata of air over the ocean, they seem smaller at the bottom than at the top.  Occasionally they come quite near, as do the sea-lions and the gulls, and again they almost fade out of the horizon in a violet light.  This morning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IN THE GARDEN AT SANTA BARBARA MISSION.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>We crossed the bay the other day, and drove up a wild road to the height of the promontory, and along its narrow ridge to the light-house.  This site commands one of the most remarkable views in the accessible civilized world, one of the three or four really great prospects which the traveller can recall, astonishing in its immensity, interesting in its peculiar details.  The general features are the great ocean, blue, flecked with sparkling, breaking wavelets, and the wide, curving coast-line, rising into mesas, foot-hills, ranges on ranges of mountains, the faintly seen snow-peaks of San Bernardino and San Jacinto to the Cuyamaca and the flat top of Table Mountain in Mexico.  Directly under us on one side are the fields of kelp, where the whales come to feed in winter; and on the other is a point of sand on Coronado Beach, where a flock of pelicans have assembled after their day's fishing, in which occupation they are the rivals of the Portuguese.  The perfect crescent of the ocean beach is seen, the singular formation of North and South Coronado Beach, the entrance to the harbor along Point Loma, and the spacious inner bay, on which lie San Diego and National City, with lowlands and heights outside sprinkled with houses, gardens, orchards, and vineyards.  The near hills about this harbor are varied in form and poetic in color, one of them, the conical San Miguel, constantly recalling Vesuvius.  Indeed, the near view, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Standing upon this point of view, I am reminded again of the striking contrasts and contiguous different climates on the coast.  In the north, of course not visible from here, is Mount Whitney, on the borders of Inyo County and of the State of Nevada, 15,086 feet above the sea, the highest peak in the United States, excluding Alaska.  South of it is Grayback, in the San Bernardino range, 11,000 feet in altitude, the highest point above its base in the United States.  While south of that is the depression in the Colorado Desert in San Diego County, about three hundred feet below the level of the Pacific Ocean, the lowest land in the United States.  These three exceptional points can be said to be almost in sight of each other.</P>
168.sgm:<P>I have insisted so much upon the Mediterranean character of this region that it is necessary to emphasize the contrasts also.  Reserving details and comments on different localities as to the commercial value of products and climatic conditions, I will make some general observations.  I am convinced that the fig can not only be grown here in sufficient quantity to supply our markets, but of the best quality.  The same may be said of the English walnut.  This clean and handsome tree thrives wonderfully in large areas, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SCENE AT PASADENA.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>The contrast with the Mediterranean region--I refer to the western basin--is in climate.  There is hardly any point along the French and Italian coast that is not subject to great and sudden changes, caused by the north wind, which has many names, or in the extreme southern peninsula and islands by the sirocco.  There are few points that are not reached by malaria, and in many resorts--and some of them most sunny and agreeable to the invalid--the deadliest fevers always lie in wait.  There is great contrast between summer and winter, and exceeding variability in the same month.  This variability is the parent of many diseases of the lungs, the bowels, and the liver.  It is demonstrated now by long-continued <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The Southern California climate is an anomaly.  It has been the subject of a good deal of wonder and a good deal of boasting, but it is worthy of more scientific study than it has yet received.  Its distinguishing feature I take to be its equability.  The temperature the year through is lower than I had supposed, and the contrast is not great between the summer and the winter months.  The same clothing is appropriate, speaking generally, for the whole year.  In all seasons, including the rainy days of the winter months, sunshine is the rule.  The variation of temperature between day and night is considerable, but if the newcomer exercises a little care, he will not be unpleasantly affected by it.  There are coast fogs, but these are not chilling and raw.  Why it is that with the hydrometer showing a considerable humidity in the air the general effect of the climate is that of dryness, scientists must explain.  The constant exchange of desert airs with the ocean air may account for the anomaly, and the actual dryness of the soil, even on the coast, is put forward as another explanation.  Those who come from heated rooms on the Atlantic may find the winters cooler than they expect, and those used to the heated terms of the Mississippi Valley and the East will be surprised at the cool and salubrious summers.  A land without high winds or thunder - storms may fairly be said to have a unique climate.</P>
168.sgm:<P>I suppose it is the equability and not conditions of dampness or dryness that renders this region so remarkably exempt from epidemics and endemic <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:diseases.  The diseases of children prevalent elsewhere are unknown here; they cut their teeth without risk, and <HI REND="italics">cholera infantum</HI>
168.sgm: never visits them.  Diseases of the bowels are practically unknown.  There is no malaria, whatever that may be, and consequently an <illus entity="a168-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LIVE-OAK NEAR LOS ANGELES.</P>
168.sgm:absence of those various fevers and other disorders which are attributed to malarial conditions.  Renal diseases are also wanting; disorders of the liver and kidneys, and Bright's disease, gout, and rheumatism, are not native.  The climate in its effect is stimulating, but at the same time soothing to the nerves, so that if "nervous prostration" is wanted, it must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>One thing may be regarded as settled.  Whatever the sensibility or the peculiarity of invalidism, the equable climate is exceedingly favorable to the smooth working of the great organic functions of respiration, digestion, and circulation.</P>
168.sgm:<P>It is a pity to give this chapter a medical tone.  One need not be an invalid to come here and appreciate the graciousness of the air; the color of the landscape, which is wanting in our Northern clime; the constant procession of flowers the year through; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.<LB>THE WINTER OF OUR CONTENT.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA is the land of the Pine and the Palm.  The tree of the Sierras, native, vigorous, gigantic, and the tree of the Desert, exotic, supple, poetic, both flourish within the nine degrees of latitude.  These two, the widely separated lovers of Heine's song, symbolize the capacities of the State, and although the sugar-pine is indigenous, and the date-palm, which will never be more than an ornament in this hospitable soil, was planted by the Franciscan Fathers, who established a chain of missions from San Diego to Monterey over a century ago, they should both be the distinction of one commonwealth, which, in its seven hundred miles of indented sea-coast, can boast the climates of all countries and the products of all zones.</P>
168.sgm:<P>If this State of mountains and valleys were divided by an east and west line, following the general course of the Sierra Madre range, and cutting off the eight lower counties, I suppose there would be conceit enough in either section to maintain that it only is the Paradise of the earth, but both are necessary to make the unique and contradictory California which fascinates and bewilders the traveller.  He is told that the inhabitants of San Francisco go away from the draught of the Golden Gate in the summer to get <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>To recommend to any one a winter climate is far from the writer's thought.  No two persons agree on what is desirable for a winter residence, and the inclination of the same person varies with his state of health.  I can only attempt to give some idea of what is called the winter months in Southern California, to which my observations mainly apply.  The individual who comes here under the mistaken notion that climate ever does anything more than give nature a better chance, may speedily or more tardily need the service of an undertaker; and the invalid whose powers are responsive to kindly influences may live so long, being unable to get away, that life will be a burden to him.  The person in ordinary health will find very little that is hostile to the orderly organic processes.  In order to appreciate the winter climate of Southern California one should stay here the year through, and select the days that suit his idea of winter from any of the months.  From the fact that the greatest humidity is in the summer and the least in the winter months, he may wear an overcoat in July in a temperature, according to the thermometer, which in January would render the overcoat unnecessary.  It is dampness that causes both cold and heat to be most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:felt.  The lowest temperatures, in Southern California generally, are caused only by the extreme dryness of the air; in the long nights of December and January there is a more rapid and longer continued radiation of heat.  It must be a dry and clear night that will send the temperature down to thirty-four degrees.  But the effect of the sun upon this air is instantaneous, and the cold morning is followed at once by a warm forenoon; the difference between the average heat of July and the average cold of January, measured by the thermometer, is not great in the valleys, foot-hills, and on the coast.  Five points give this result of average for January and July respectively: Santa Barbara, 52&deg;, 66&deg;; San Bernardino, 51&deg;, 70&deg;; Pomona, 52&deg;, 68&deg;; Los Angeles, 52&deg;, 67&deg;; San Diego, 53&deg;, 66&deg;.  The day in the winter months is warmer in the interior and the nights are cooler than on the coast, as shown by the following figures for January: 7 A.M., Los Angeles, 46.5&deg;; San Diego, 47.5&deg;; 3 P.M., Los Angeles, 65.2&deg;; San Diego, 60.9&deg;.  In the summer the difference is greater.  In June I saw the thermometer reach 103&deg; in Los Angeles when it was only 79&deg; in San Diego.  But I have seen the weather unendurable in New York with a temperature of 85&deg;, while this dry heat of 103&deg; was not oppressive.  The extraordinary equanimity of the coast climate (certainly the driest marine climate in my experience) will be evident from the average mean for each month, from records of sixteen years, ending in 1877, taken at San Diego, giving each month in order, beginning with January: 53.5&deg;, 54.7&deg;, 56.0&deg;, 58.2&deg;, 60.2&deg;, 64.6&deg;, 67.1&deg;, 69.0&deg;, 66.7&deg;, 62.9&deg;, 58.1&deg;, 56.0&deg;.  In the year 1877 the mean temperature at 3 P.M. at San Diego was as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>In considering the matter of temperature, the rule for vegetation and for invalids will not be the same.  A spot in which delicate flowers in Southern California bloom the year round may be too cool for many invalids.  It must not be forgotten that the general temperature here is lower than that to which most Eastern people are accustomed.  They are used to living all winter in overheated houses, and to protracted heated terms rendered worse by humidity in the summer.  The dry, low temperature of the California winter, notwithstanding its perpetual sunshine, may seem, therefore, wanting to them in direct warmth.  It may take a year or two to acclimate them to this more equable and more refreshing temperature.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Neither on the coast nor in the foot-hills will the invalid find the climate of the Riviera or of Tangier--not the tramontane wind of the former, nor the absolutely genial but somewhat enervating climate of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:the latter.  But it must be borne in mind that in this, our Mediterranean, the seeker for health or pleasure can find almost any climate (except the very cold or the very hot), down to the minutest subdivision.  He may try the dry marine climate of the coast, or the temperature of the fruit lands and gardens from San Bernardino to Los Angeles, or he may climb to any altitude that suits him in the Sierra Madre or the San Jacinto ranges.  The difference may be all-important to him between a valley and a mesa which is not a hundred feet higher; nay, between a valley and the slope of a foot-hill, with a shifting of not more than fifty feet elevation, the change may be as marked for him as it is for the most sensitive young fruit-tree.  It is undeniable, notwithstanding these encouraging "averages," that cold snaps, though rare, do come occasionally, just as in summer there will occur one or two or three continued days of intense heat.  And in the summer in some localities--it happened in June, 1890, in the Santiago hills in Orange County--the desert sirocco, blowing over the Colorado furnace, makes life just about unendurable for days at a time.  Yet with this dry heat sunstroke is never experienced, and the diseases of the bowels usually accompanying hot weather elsewhere are unknown.  The experienced traveller who encounters unpleasant weather, heat that he does not expect, cold that he did not provide for, or dust that deprives him of his last atom of good-humor, and is told that it is "exceptional," knows exactly what that word means.  He is familiar with the "exceptional" the world over, and he feels a sort of compassion for the inhabitants who have not yet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The rainy season in Southern California, which may open with a shower or two in October, but does not set in till late in November, or till December, and is over in April, is not at all a period of cloudy weather or continuous rainfall.  On the contrary, bright warm days and brilliant sunshine are the rule.  The rain is most likely to fall in the night.  There may be a day of rain, or several days that are overcast with distributed rain, but the showers are soon over, and the sky clears.  Yet winters vary greatly in this respect, the rainfall being much greater in some than in others.  In 1890 there was rain beyond the average, and even on the equable beach of Coronada there were some weeks of weather that from the California point of view were very unpleasant.  It was unpleasant by local comparison, but it was not damp and chilly, like a protracted period of falling weather on the Atlantic.  The rain comes with a southerly wind, caused by a disturbance far north, and with the resumption of the prevailing westerly winds it suddenly ceases, the air clears, and neither before nor after it is the atmosphere "steamy" or enervating.  The average annual rainfall of the Pacific coast diminishes by regular gradation from point to point all the way from Puget Sound to the Mexican boundary.  At Neah Bay it is 111 inches, and it steadily lessens down to Santa Cruz, 25.24; Monterey, 11.42; Point Conception, 12.21; San Diego, 11.01.  There is fog on the coast in every month, but this diminishes, like the rainfall, from north to south.  I have encountered it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>It is probably impossible to give an Eastern man a just idea of the winter of Southern California.  Accustomed to extremes, he may expect too much.  He wants a violent change.  If he quits the snow, the slush, the leaden skies, the alternate sleet and cold rain of New England, he would like the tropical heat, the languor, the color of Martinique.  He will not find them here.  He comes instead into a strictly temperate region; and even when he arrives, his eyes deceive him.  He sees the orange ripening in its dark foliage, the long lines of the eucalyptus, the feathery pepper-tree, the magnolia, the English walnut, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:black live-oak, the fan-palm, in all the vigor of June; everywhere beds of flowers of every hue and of every country blazing in the bright sunlight--the heliotrope, the geranium, the rare hot-house roses overrunning the hedges of cypress, and the scarlet passion-vine climbing to the roof-tree of the cottages; in the vineyard or the orchard the horticulturist is following the cultivator in his shirt-sleeves; he hears running water, the song of birds, the scent of flowers is in the air, and he cannot understand why he needs winter clothing, why he is always seeking the sun, why he wants a fire at night.  It is a fraud, he says, all this visible display of summer, and of an almost tropical summer at that; it is really a cold country.  It is incongruous that he should be looking at a date-palm in his overcoat, and he is puzzled that a thermometrical heat that should enervate him elsewhere, stimulates him here.  The green, brilliant, vigorous vegetation, the perpetual sunshine, deceive him; he is careless about the difference of shade and sun, he gets into a draught, and takes cold.  Accustomed to extremes of temperature and artificial heat, I think for most people the first winter here is a disappointment.  I was told by a physician who had eighteen years' experience of the climate that in his first winter he thought he had never seen a people so insensitive to cold as the San Diegans, who seemed not to require warmth.  And all this time the trees are growing like asparagus, the most delicate flowers are in perpetual bloom, the annual crops are most lusty.  I fancy that the soil is always warm.  The temperature is truly moderate.  The records for a number of years show that the mid-day temperature of clear days in winter is from 60&deg; to 70&deg; on the coast, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>It goes without saying that this sort of climate would suit any one in ordinary health, inviting and stimulating to constant out-of-door exercise, and that it would be equally favorable to that general break-down of the system which has the name of nervous prostration.  The effect upon diseases of the respiratory organs can only be determined by individual experience.  The government has lately been sending soldiers who have consumption from various stations in the United States to San Diego for treatment.  This experiment will furnish interesting data.  Within a period covering a little over two years, Dr. Huntington, the post surgeon, has had fifteen cases sent to him.  Three of these patients had tubercular consumption; twelve had consumption induced by attacks of pneumonia.  One of the tubercular patients died within a month after his arrival; the second lived eight months; the third was discharged cured, left the army, and contracted malaria elsewhere, of which he died.  The remaining twelve were discharged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MIDWINTER, PASADENA.</P>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.<LB>HEALTH AND LONGEVITY.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>IN regard to the effect of climate upon health and longevity, Dr. Remondino quotes old Hufeland that "uniformity in the state of the atmosphere, particularly in regard to heat, cold, gravity, and lightness, contributes in a very considerable degree to the duration of life.  Countries, therefore, where great and sudden varieties in the barometer and the thermometer are usual cannot be favorable to longevity.  Such countries may be healthy, and many men may become old in them, but they will not attain to a great age, for all rapid variations are so many internal mutations, and these occasion an astonishing consumption both of the forces and the organs."  Hufeland thought a marine climate most favorable to longevity.  He describes, and perhaps we may say prophesied, a region he had never known, where the conditions and combinations were most favorable to old age, which is epitomized by Dr. Remondino: "where the latitude gives warmth and the sea or ocean tempering winds, where the soil is warm and dry and the sun is also bright and warm, where uninterrupted bright clear weather and a moderate temperature are the rule, where extremes neither of heat nor cold are to be found, where nothing may interfere with the exercise of the aged, and where the actual results and cases of longevity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>In an unpublished paper Dr. Remondino comments on the extraordinary endurance of animals and men in the California climate, and cites many cases of uncommon longevity in natives.  In reading the accounts of early days in California I am struck with the endurance of hardship, exposure, and wounds by the natives and the adventurers, the rancheros, horsemen, herdsmen, the descendants of soldiers and the Indians, their insensibility to fatigue, and their agility and strength.  This is ascribed to the climate; and what is true of man is true of the native horse.  His only rival in strength, endurance, speed, and intelligence is the Arabian.  It was long supposed that this was racial, and that but for the smallness of the size of the native horse, crossing with it would improve the breed of the Eastern and Kentucky racers.  But there was reluctance to cross the finely proportioned Eastern horse with his diminutive Western brother.  The importation and breeding of thoroughbreds on this coast has led to the discovery that the desirable qualities of the California horse were not racial but climatic.  The Eastern horse has been found to improve in size, compactness of muscle, in strength of limb, in wind, with a marked increase in power of endurance.  The traveller here notices the fine horses and their excellent condition, and the power and endurance of those that have considerable age.  The records made on Eastern race-courses by horses from California breeding farms have already attracted attention.  It is also remarked that the Eastern horse is usually improved greatly by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Man, it is asserted by our authority, is as much benefited as the horse by a change to this climate.  The new-comer may have certain unpleasant sensations in coming here from different altitudes and conditions, but he will soon be conscious of better being, of increased power in all the functions of life, more natural and recuperative sleep, and an accession of vitality and endurance.  Dr. Remondino also testifies that it occasionally happens in this rejuvenation that families which have seemed to have reached their limit at the East are increased after residence here.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The early inhabitants of Southern California, according to the statement of Mr. H. H. Bancroft and other reports, were found to be living in Spartan conditions as to temperance and training, and in a highly moral condition, in consequence of which they had uncommon physical endurance and contempt for luxury.  This training in abstinence and hardship, with temperance in diet, combined with the climate to produce the astonishing longevity to be found here.  Contrary to the customs of most other tribes of Indians, their aged were the care of the community.  Dr. W. A. Winder, of San Diego, is quoted as saying that in a visit to El Cajon Valley some thirty years ago he was taken to a house in which the aged persons were cared for.  There were half a dozen who had reached an extreme age.  Some were unable to move their bony frame being seemingly anchylosed.  They were old, wrinkled, and blear-eyed; their skin was hanging in leathery folds about their withered limbs; some had hair as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A TYPICAL GARDEN, NEAR SANTA ANA.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>I have no space to enter upon the nature of the testimony upon which the age of certain Indians hereafter referred to is based.  It is such as to satisfy Dr. Remondino, Dr. Edward Palmer, long connected with the Agricultural Department of the Smithsonian Institution, and Father A. D. Ubach, who has religious charge of the Indians in this region.  These Indians were not migratory; they lived within certain limits, and were known to each other.  The missions established by the Franciscan friars were built with the assistance of the Indians.  The friars have handed down by word of mouth many details in regard to their early missions; others are found in the mission records, such as carefully kept records of family events--births, marriages, and deaths.  And there is the testimony of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Dr. Palmer has a photograph (which I have seen) of a squaw whom he estimates to be 126 years old.  When he visited her he saw her put six watermelons in a blanket, tie it up, and carry it on her back for two miles.  He is familiar with Indian customs and history, and a careful cross-examination convinced him that her information of old customs was not obtained by tradition.  She was conversant with tribal habits she had seen practised, such as the cremation of the dead, which the mission fathers had compelled the Indians to relinquish.  She had seen the Indians punished by the fathers with floggings for persisting in the practice of cremation.</P>
168.sgm:<P>At the mission of San Tomas, in Lower California, is still living an Indian (a photograph of whom Dr. Remondino shows), bent and wrinkled, whose age is computed at 140 years.  Although blind and naked, he is still active, and daily goes down the beach and along the beds of the creeks in search of drift-wood, making it his daily task to gather and carry to camp a fagot of wood.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>Another instance I give in Dr. Remondino's words: "Philip Crossthwaite, who has lived here since 1843, has an old man on his ranch who mounts his horse and rides about daily, who was a grown man breaking horses for the mission fathers when Don Antonio Serrano was an infant.  <illus entity="a168-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OLD ADOBE HOUSE, POMONA.</P>
168.sgm:Don Antonio I know quite well, having attended him through a serious illness some sixteen years ago.  Although now at the advanced age of ninety-three, he is as erect as a pine, and he rides <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>In the many instances given of extreme old age in this region the habits of these Indians have been those of strict temperance and abstemiousness, and their long life in an equable climate is due to extreme simplicity of diet.  In many cases of extreme age the diet has consisted simply of acorns, flour, and water.  It is asserted that the climate itself induces temperance in drink and abstemiousness in diet.  In his estimate of the climate as a factor of longevity, Dr. Remondino says that it is only necessary to look at the causes of death, and the ages most subject to attack, to understand that the less of these causes that are present the greater are the chances of man to reach great age.  "Add to these reflections that you run no gantlet of diseases to undermine or deteriorate the organism; that in this climate childhood finds an escape from those diseases which are the terror of mothers, and against which physicians are helpless, as we have here none of those affections of the first three years of life <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FAN-PALM, FERNANDO ST. LOS ANGELES.</P>
168.sgm:so prevalent during the summer months in the East and the rest of the United States.  Then, again, the chance of gastric or intestinal disease is almost incredibly small.  This immunity extends through every age of life.  Hepatic and kindred diseases are unknown; of lung affections there is no land that can boast of like exemption.  Be it the equability of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The importance of this subject must excuse the space I have given to it.  It is evident from this testimony that here are climatic conditions novel and worthy of the most patient scientific investigation.  Their effect upon hereditary tendencies and upon persons coming here with hereditary diseases will be studied.  Three years ago there was in some localities a visitation of small-pox imported from Mexico.  At that time there were cases of pneumonia.  Whether these were incident to carelessness in vaccination, or were caused by local unsanitary conditions, I do not know.  It is not to be expected that unsanitary conditions will not produce disease here as elsewhere.  It cannot be too strongly insisted that this is a climate that the new-comer must get used to, and that he cannot safely neglect the ordinary precautions.  The difference between shade and sun is strikingly marked, and he must not be deceived into imprudence by the prevailing sunshine or the general equability.</P>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.<LB>IS RESIDENCE HERE AGREEABLE?</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>AFTER all these averages and statistics, and not considering now the chances of the speculator, the farmer, the fruit-raiser, or the invalid, is Southern California a particularly agreeable winter residence?  The question deserves a candid answer, for it is of the last importance to the people of the United States to know the truth--to know whether they have accessible by rail a region free from winter rigor and vicissitudes, and yet with few of the disadvantages of most winter resorts.  One would have more pleasure in answering the question if he were not irritated by the perpetual note of brag and exaggeration in every locality that each is the paradise of the earth, and absolutely free from any physical discomfort.  I hope that this note of exaggeration is not the effect of the climate, for if it is, the region will never be socially agreeable.</P>
168.sgm:<P>There are no sudden changes of season here.  Spring comes gradually day by day, a perceptible hourly waking to life and color; and this glides into a summer which never ceases, but only becomes tired and fades into the repose of a short autumn, when the sere and brown and red and yellow hills and the purple mountains are waiting for the rain clouds.  This is according to the process of nature; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>I should think it well worth while to watch the procession of nature here from late November or December to April.  It is a land of delicate and brilliant wild flowers, of blooming shrubs, strange in form and wonderful in color.  Before the annual rains the land lies in a sort of swoon in a golden haze; the slopes and plains are bare, the hills yellow with ripe wild-oats or ashy gray with sage, the sea-breeze is weak, the air grows drier, the sun hot, the shade cool.  Then one day light clouds stream up from the south-west, and there is a gentle rain.  When the sun comes out again its rays are milder, the land is refreshed and brightened, and almost immediately a greenish tinge appears on plain and hill-side.  At intervals the rain continues, daily the landscape is greener in infinite variety of shades, which seem to sweep over the hills in waves of color.  Upon this carpet of green by February nature begins to weave an embroidery of wild flowers, white, lavender, golden, pink, indigo, scarlet, changing day by day and every day more brilliant, and spreading from patches into great fields until dale and hill and table-land are overspread with a refinement and glory of color that would be the despair of the carpet-weavers of Daghestan.</P>
168.sgm:<P>This, with the scent of orange groves and tea-roses, with cool nights, snow in sight on the high mountains, an occasional day of rain, days of bright sunshine, when an overcoat is needed in driving, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>But is it interesting?  What is there to do?  It must be confessed that there is a sort of monotony in the scenery as there is in the climate.  There is, to be sure, great variety in a way between coast and mountain, as, for instance, between Santa Barbara and Pasadena, and if the tourist will make a business of exploring the valleys and uplands and can&tilde;ons little visited, he will not complain of monotony; but the artist and the photographer find the same elements repeated in little varying combinations.  There is undeniable repetition in the succession of flower-gardens, fruit orchards, alleys of palms and peppers, vineyards, and the cultivation about the villas is repeated in all directions.  The Americans have not the art of making houses or a land picturesque.  The traveller is enthusiastic about the exquisite drives through these groves of fruit, with the ashy or the snow-covered hills for background and contrast, and he exclaims at the pretty cottages, vine and rose clad, in their semi-tropical setting, but if by chance he comes upon an old adobe or a Mexican ranch house in the country, he has emotions of a different sort.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:There is little left of the old Spanish occupation, but the remains of it make the romance of the country, and appeal to our sense of fitness and beauty.  It is to be hoped that all such historical associations will be preserved, for they give to the traveller that which <illus entity="a168-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SCARLET PASSION-VINE.</P>
168.sgm:our country generally lacks, and which is so largely the attraction of Italy and Spain.  Instead of adapting and modifying the houses and homes that the climate suggests, the new American comers have brought here from the East the smartness and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:prettiness of our modern nondescript architecture.  The low house, with recesses and galleries, built round an inner court, or <HI REND="italics">patio</HI>
168.sgm:<P>So far as climate and natural beauty go to make one contented in a winter resort, Southern California has unsurpassed attractions, and both seem to me to fit very well the American temperament; but the associations of art and history are wanting, and the tourist knows how largely his enjoyment of a vacation in Southern Italy or Sicily or Northern Africa depends upon these--upon these and upon the aspects of human nature foreign to his experience.</P>
168.sgm:<P>It goes without saying that this is not Europe, either in its human interest or in a certain refinement of landscape that comes only by long cultivation and the occupancy of ages.  One advantage of foreign travel to the restless American is that he carries with him no responsibility for the government or the progress of the country he is in, and that he leaves business behind him; whereas in this new country, which is his own, the development of which is so interesting, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>A great many people like to spend months in a comfortable hotel, lounging on the piazzas, playing lawn-tennis, taking a morning ride or afternoon drive, making an occasional picnic excursion up some mountain can&tilde;on, getting up charades, playing at private theatricals, dancing, flirting, floating along with more or less sentiment and only the weariness that comes when there are no duties.  There are plenty of places where all these things can be done, and with no sort <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.<LB>THE WINTER ON THE COAST.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>BUT the distinction of this coast, and that which will forever make it attractive at the season when the North Atlantic is forbidding, is that the ocean-side is as equable, as delightful, in winter as in summer.  Its sea-side places are truly all-the-year-round resorts.  In subsequent chapters I shall speak in detail of different places as to climate and development and peculiarities of production.  I will now only give a general idea of Southern California as a wintering place.  Even as far north as Monterey, in the central part of the State, the famous Hotel del Monte, with its magnificent park of pines and live-oaks, and exquisite flower-gardens underneath the trees, is remarkable for its steadiness of temperature.  I could see little difference between the temperature of June and of February.  The difference is of course greatest at night.  The maximum the year through ranges from about 65&deg; to about 80&deg;, and the minimum from about 35&deg; to about 58&deg;, though there are days when the thermometer goes above 90&deg;, and nights when it falls below 30&deg;.</P>
168.sgm:<P>To those who prefer the immediate ocean air to that air as modified by such valleys as the San Gabriel and the Santa Ana, the coast offers a variety of choice in different combinations of sea and mountain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ROSE-BUSH, SANTA BARBARA.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>Farther down the coast, only eighteen miles from Los Angeles, and a sort of Coney Island resort of that thriving city, is Santa Monica.  Its hotel stands on a high bluff in a lovely bend of the coast.  It is popular in summer as well as winter, as the number of cottages attest, and it was chosen by the directors of the National Soldiers' Home as the site of the Home on the Pacific coast.  There the veterans, in a commodious building, dream away their lives most contentedly, and can fancy that they hear the distant thunder of guns in the pounding of the surf.</P>
168.sgm:<P>At about the same distance from Los Angeles, southward, above Point Vincent, is Redondo Beach, a new resort, which, from its natural beauty and extensive improvements, promises to be a delightful place of sojourn at any time of the year.  The mountainous, embracing arms of the bay are exquisite in contour and color, and the beach is very fine.  The hotel is perfectly comfortable--indeed, uncommonly attractive--and the extensive planting of trees, palms, and shrubs, and the cultivation of flowers, will change the place in a year or two into a scene of green and floral loveliness; in this region two years, such is the rapid growth, suffices to transform a desert into a park or garden.  On the hills, at a little distance from the beach and pier, are the buildings of the Chautauqua, which holds a local summer session here.  The Chautauqua people, the country over, seem to have, in selecting sightly and agreeable sites for their temples of education and amusement, as good judgment as the old monks had in planting their monasteries and missions.</P>
168.sgm:<P>If one desires a thoroughly insular climate, he may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>AT AVALON, SANTA CATALINA ISLAND.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>The transition from the well-planted counties of Los Angeles and Orange is not altogether agreeable to the eye.  One misses the trees.  The general aspect of the coast about San Diego is bare in comparison.  This simply means that the southern county is behind the others in development.  Nestled among the hills there are live-okas and sycamores; and of course at National City and below, in El Cajon and the valley of the Sweetwater, there are extensive plantations of oranges, lemons, olives, and vines, but the San Diego region generally lies in the sun shadeless.  I have a personal theory that much vegetation is inconsistent with the best atmosphere for the human being.  The air is nowhere else so agreeable to me as it is in a barren New Mexican or Arizona desert at the proper elevation.  I do not know whether the San Diego <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:climate would be injured if the hills were covered with forest and the valleys were all in the highest and most luxuriant vegetation.  The theory is that the interaction of the desert and ocean winds will always keep it as it is, whatever man may do.  I can only say that, as it is, I doubt if it has its equal the year round for agreeableness and healthfulness in our Union; and it is the testimony of those whose experience of the best Mediterranean climate is more extended and much longer continued than mine, that it is superior to any on that enclosed sea.  About this great harbor, whose outer beach has an extent of twenty-five miles, whose inland circuit of mountains must be over fifty miles, there are great varieties of temperature, of shelter and exposure, minute subdivisions of climate, whose personal fitness can only be attested by experience.  There is a great difference, for instance, between the quality of the climate at the elevation of the Florence Hotel, San Diego, and the University Heights on the mesa above the town, and that on the long Coronado Beach which protects the inner harbor from the ocean surf.  The latter, practically surrounded by water, has a true marine climate, but a peculiar and dry marine climate, as tonic in its effect as that of Capri, and, I believe, with fewer harsh days in the winter season.  I wish to speak with entire frankness about this situation, for I am sure that what so much pleases me will suit a great number of people, who will thank me for not being reserved.  Doubtless it will not suit hundreds of people as well as some other localities in Southern California, but I found no other place where I had the feeling of absolute content and willingness to stay on indefinitely.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The Coronado Beach is about twelve miles long.  A narrow sand promontory, running northward from the main-land, rises to the Heights, then broadens into a table-land, which seems to be an island, and meastures about a mile and a half each way; this is called South Beach, and is connected by another spit of sand with a like area called North Beach, which forms, with Point Loma, the entrance to the harbor.  The North Beach, covered partly with chaparral and broad fields of barley, is alive with quail, and is a favorite coursing-ground for rabbits.  The soil, which appears uninviting, is with water uncommonly fertile, being a mixture of loam, disintegrated granite, and decomposed shells, and especially adapted to flowers, rare tropical trees, fruits, and flowering shrubs of all countries.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The development is on the South Beach, which was in January, 1887, nothing but a waste of sand and chaparral.  I doubt if the world can show a like transformation in so short a time.  I saw it in February of that year, when all the beauty, except that of ocean, sky, and atmosphere, was still to be imagined.  It is now as if the wand of the magician had touched it.  In the first place, abundance of water was brought over by a submarine conduit, and later from the extraordinary Coronado Springs (excellent soft water for drinking and bathing, and with a recognized medicinal value), and with these streams the beach began to bloom like a tropical garden.  Tens of thousands of trees <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The hotel stands upon the south front of the beach and near the sea, above which it is sufficiently elevated to give a fine prospect.  The sound of the beating surf is perpetual there.  At low tide there is a splendid driving beach miles in extent, and though the slope is abrupt, the opportunity for bathing is good, with a little care in regard to the undertow.  But there is a safe natatorium on the harbor side close to the hotel.  The stranger, when he first comes upon this novel hotel and this marvellous scene of natural and created beauty, is apt to exhaust his superlatives.  I hesitate to attempt to describe this hotel--this airy and picturesque and half-bizarre wooden creation of the architect.  Taking it and its situation together, I know nothing else in the world with which to compare it, and I have never seen any other which so surprised at first, that so improved on a two weeks' acquaintance, and that has left in the mind an impression so entirely agreeable.  It covers about four and a half acres of ground, including an inner court of about an acre, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HOTEL DEL CORONADO.</P>
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168.sgm:rich made soil of which is raised to the level of the main floor.  The house surrounds this, in the Spanish mode of building, with a series of galleries, so that most of the suites of rooms have a double outlook--one upon this lovely garden, the other upon the ocean or the harbor.  The effect of this interior court or <HI REND="italics">patio</HI>
168.sgm: is to give gayety and an air of friendliness to the place, brilliant as it is with flowers and climbing vines; and when the royal and date palms that are vigorously thriving in it attain their growth it will be magnificent.  Big hotels and caravansaries are usually tiresome, unfriendly places; and if I should lay too much stress upon the vast dining-room (which has a floor area of ten thousand feet without post or pillar), or the beautiful breakfast-room, or the circular ball-room (which has an area of eleven thousand feet, with its timber roof open to the lofty observatory), or the music-room, billiard-rooms for ladies, the reading-rooms and parlors, the pretty gallery overlooking the spacious office rotunda, and then say that the whole is illuminated with electric lights, and capable of being heated to any temperature desired--I might convey a false impression as to the actual comfort and home-likeness of this charming place.  On the sea side the broad galleries of each story are shut in by glass, which can be opened to admit or shut to exclude the fresh ocean breeze.  Whatever the temperature outside, those great galleries are always agreeable for lounging or promenading.  For me, I never tire of the sea and its changing color and movement.  If this great house were filled with guests, so spacious are its lounging places I should think it would never appear to be crowded; and if it were nearly empty, so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:admirably are the rooms contrived for family life it will not seem lonesome.  I shall add that the management is of the sort that makes the guest feel at home and at ease.  Flowers, brought in from the gardens and nurseries, are everywhere in profusion--on the dining-tables, in the rooms, all about the house.  <illus entity="a168-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OSTRICH YARD, CORONADO BEACH.</P>
168.sgm:<P>But any description would fail to give the secret of the charm of existence here.  Restlessness disappears, for one thing, but there is no languor or depression.  I cannot tell why, when the thermometer is at 60&deg; or 63&deg;, the air seems genial and has no sense of chilliness, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>But you can take your choice.  It lies there, our Mediterranean region, on a blue ocean, protected by barriers of granite from the Northern influences, an infinite variety of plain, can&tilde;on, hills, valleys, sea-coast; our New Italy without malaria, and with every sort of fruit which we desire (except the tropical), which will be grown in perfection when our knowledge equals our ambition; and if you cannot find a winter home there or pass some contented weeks in the months of Northern inclemency, you are weighing social advantages against those of the least objectionable climate within the Union.  It is not yet proved that this equability and the daily out-door life possible there will change character, but they are likely to improve the disposition and soften the asperities of common life.  At any rate, there is a land where from November to April one has not to make a continual fight with the elements to keep alive.</P>
168.sgm:<P>It has been said that this land of the sun and of the equable climate will have the effect that other lands of a southern aspect have upon temperament and habits.  It is feared that Northern-bred people, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>I wish there might be something solid in this expectation; that this may be a region where the restless American will lose something of his hurry and petty, feverish ambition.  Partially it may be so.  He will take, he is already taking, something of the tone of the climate and of the old Spanish occupation.  But the race instinct of thrift and of "getting on" will not wear out in many generations.  Besides, the condition of living at all in Southern California in comfort, and with the social life indispensable to our people, demands labor, not exhausting and killing, but still incessant--demands industry.  A land that will not yield satisfactorily without irrigation, and whose best paying produce requires intelligent as well as careful husbandry, will never be an idle land.  Egypt, with all its <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
168.sgm:<P>It may be expected, however, that no more energy will be developed or encouraged than is needed for the daily tasks, and these tasks being lighter than elsewhere, and capable of being postponed, that there will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>THE GENERAL OUTLOOK.--LAND AND PRICES.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>FROM the northern limit of California to the southern is about the same distance as from Portsmouth, New Hampshire, to Charleston, South Carolina.  Of these two coast lines, covering nearly ten degrees of latitude, or over seven hundred miles, the Atlantic has greater extremes of climate and greater monthly variations, and the Pacific greater variety of productions.  The State of California is, however, so mountainous, cut by longitudinal and transverse ranges, that any reasonable person can find in it a temperature to suit him the year through.  But it does not need to be explained that it would be difficult to hit upon any general characteristic that would apply to the stretch of the Atlantic coast named, as a guide to a settler looking for a home; the description of Massachusetts would be wholly misleading for South Carolina.  It is almost as difficult to make any comprehensive statement about the long line of the California coast.</P>
168.sgm:<P>It is possible, however, limiting the inquiry to the southern third of the State--an area of about fifty-eight thousand square miles, as large as Maine, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island--to answer fairly some of the questions oftenest asked about it.  These relate to the price of land, its productiveness, the kind of products most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>In making this estimate I do not consider the question of health or merely the agreeability of the climate, but the conditions of labor, the ease with which one could support a family, and the profits over and above a fair living.  It has been customary in reckoning the value of land there to look merely to the profit of it beyond its support of a family, forgetting that agriculture and horticulture the world over, like almost all other kinds of business, usually do little more than procure a good comfortable living, with incidental education, to those who engage in them.  That the majority of the inhabitants of Southern California will become rich by the culture of the orange and the vine is an illusion; but it is not an illusion that twenty times its present population can live there in comfort, in what might be called luxury elsewhere, by the cultivation of the soil, all far removed from poverty and much above the condition of the majority of the inhabitants of the foreign wine and fruit-producing countries.  This result is assured by the extraordinary productiveness of the land, uninterrupted the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:year through, and by the amazing extension of the market in the United States for products that can be nowhere else produced with such certainty and profusion as in California.  That State is only just learning how to supply a demand which is daily increasing, but it already begins to command the market in certain fruits.  This command of the market in the future will depend upon itself, that is, whether it will send <illus entity="a168-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>YUCCA-PALM.</P>
168.sgm:East and North only sound wine, instead of crude, illcured juice of the grape, only the best and most carefully canned apricots, nectarines, peaches, and plums, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DATE-PALM.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The difficulty for the settler is that he cannot "take up" ten acres with water in California as he can 160 acres elsewhere.  There is left little available Government land.  There is plenty of government land not taken up and which may never be occupied, that is, inaccessible mountain and irreclaimable desert.  There are also little nooks and fertile spots here and there to be discovered which may be pre-empted, and which will some day have value.  But practically all the arable land, or that is likely to become so, is owned now in large tracts, under grants or by wholesale purchase.  The circumstances of the case compelled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:associate effort.  Such a desert as that now blooming region known as Pasadena, Pomona, Riverside, and so on, could not be subdued by individual exertion.  Consequently land and water companies were organized.  They bought large tracts of unimproved land, built dams in the mountain can&tilde;ons, sunk wells, drew water from the rivers, made reservoirs, laid pipes, carried ditches and conduits across the country, and then sold the land with the inseparable water right in small parcels.  Thus the region became subdivided among small holders, each independent, but all mutually dependent as to water, which is the <HI REND="italics">sine qua non</HI>
168.sgm:<P>What has been done in the Santa Ana and San Gabriel valleys will be done elsewhere in the State.  There are places in Kern County, north of the Sierra Madre, where the land produces grain and alfalfa without irrigation, where farms can be bought at from five to ten dollars an acre--land that will undoubtedly increase in value with settlement and also by irrigation.  The great county of San Diego is practically undeveloped, and contains an immense area, in scattered mesas and valleys, of land which will produce apples, grain, and grass without irrigation, and which the settler can get at moderate prices.  Nay, more, any one with a little ready money, who goes to Southern California expecting to establish himself and willing to work, will be welcomed and aided, and be pretty certain to find some place where he can steadily improve his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>So many conditions enter into the price of land that it is impossible to name an average price for the arable land of the southern counties, but I have heard good judges place it at $100 an acre.  The lands, with water, are very much alike in their producing power, but some, for climatic reasons, are better adapted to citrus fruits, others to the raisin grape, and others to deciduous fruits.  The value is also affected by railway facilities, contiguity to the local commercial centre, and also by the character of the settlement--that is, by its morality, public spirit, and facilities for education.  Every town and settlement thinks it has special advantages as to improved irrigation, equability of temperature, adaptation to this or that product, attractions for invalids, tempered ocean breezes, protection from "northers" schools, and varied industries.  These things are so much matter of personal choice that each settler will do well to examine widely for himself, and not buy until he is suited.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Some figures, which may be depended on, of actual sales and of annual yields, may be of service.  They are of the district east of Pasadena and Pomona, but fairly represent the whole region down to Los Angeles.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Land adapted to the deciduous fruits, such as apricots and peaches, is worth as much as raisin land, and some years pays better.  The pear and the apple need <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Good orange land unimproved, but with water, is worth from $300 to $500 an acre.  If we add to this price the cost of budded trees, the care of them for four years, and interest at eight per cent. per annum for four years, the cost of a good grove will be about $1000 an acre.  It must be understood that the profit of an orange grove depends upon care, skill, and business ability.  The kind of orange grown with reference to the demand, the judgment about more or less irrigation as affecting the quality, the cultivation of the soil, and the arrangements for marketing, are all elements in the problem.  There are young groves at Riverside, five years old, that are paying ten per cent. net upon from $3000 to $5000 an acre; while there are older groves, which, at the prices for fruit in the spring of 1890--$1 60 per box for seedlings and $3 per box for navels delivered at the packing-houses--paid at the rate of ten per cent. net on $7500 per acre.</P>
168.sgm:<P>In all these estimates water must be reckoned as a prime factor.  What, then, is water worth per inch, generally, in all this fruit region from Redlands to Los Angeles?  It is worth just the amount it will add to the commercial value of land irrigated by it, and that may be roughly estimated at from $500 to $1000 an inch of continuous flow.  Take an illustration.  A piece of land at Riverside below the flow of water was worth $300 an acre.  Contiguous to it was another piece not irrigated which would not sell for $50 an acre.  By bringing water to it, it would quickly sell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The standard of measurement of water in Southern California is the miner's inch under four inches' pressure, or the amount that will flow through an inch-square opening under a pressure of four inches measured from the surface of the water in the conduit to the centre of the opening through which it flows.  This is nine gallons a minute, or, as it is figured, 1728 cubic feet or 12,960 gallons in twenty-four hours, and 1.50 of a cubic foot a second.  This flow would cover ten acres about eighteen inches deep in a year; that is, it would give the land the equivalent of eighteen inches of rain, distributed exactly when and where it was needed, none being wasted, and more serviceable than fifty inches of rainfall as it generally comes.  This, with the natural rainfall, is sufficient for citrus fruits and for corn and alfalfa, in soil not too sandy, and it is too much for grapes and all deciduous fruits.</P>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.<LB>THE ADVANTAGES OF IRRIGATION.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>IT is necessary to understand this problem of irrigation in order to comprehend Southern California, the exceptional value of its arable land, the certainty and great variety of its products, and the part it is to play in our markets.  There are three factors in the expectation of a crop--soil, sunshine, and water.  In a region where we can assume the first two to be constant, the only uncertainty is water.  Southern California is practically without rain from May to December.  Upon this fact rests the immense value of its soil, and the certainty that it can supply the rest of the Union with a great variety of products.  This certainty must be purchased by a previous investment of money.  Water is everywhere to be had for money, in some localities by surface wells, in others by artesian-wells, in others from such streams as the Los Angeles and the Santa Ana, and from reservoirs secured by dams in the heart of the high mountains.  It is possible to compute the cost of any one of the systems of irrigation, to determine whether it will pay by calculating the amount of land it will irrigate.  The cost of procuring water varies greatly with the situation, and it is conceivable that money can be lost in such an investment, but I have yet to hear of any irrigation that has not been more or less successful.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>Farming and fruit-raising are usually games of hazard.  Good crops and poor crops depend upon enough rain and not too much at just the right times.  A wheat field which has a good start with moderate rain may later wither in a drought, or be ruined by too much water at the time of maturity.  And, avoiding all serious reverses from either dryness or wet, every farmer knows that the quality and quantity of the product would be immensely improved if the growing stalks and roots could have water when and only when they need it.  The difference would be between, say, twenty and forty bushels of grain or roots to the acre, and that means the difference between profit and loss.  There is probably not a crop of any kind grown in the great West that would not be immensely benefited if it could be irrigated once or twice a year; and probably anywhere that water is attainable the cost of irrigation would be abundantly paid in the yield from year to year.  Farming in the West with even a little irrigation would not be the game of hazard that it is.  And it may further be assumed that there is not a vegetable patch or a fruit orchard East or West that would not yield better quality and more abundantly with irrigation.</P>
168.sgm:<P>But this is not all.  Any farmer who attempts to raise grass and potatoes and strawberries on contiguous fields, subject to the same chance of drought or rainfall, has a vivid sense of his difficulties.  The potatoes are spoiled by the water that helps the grass, and the coquettish strawberry will not thrive on the regimen that suits the grosser crops.  In California, which by its climate and soil gives a greater variety of products than any other region in the Union, the supply <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:of water is adjusted to the needs of each crop, even on contiguous fields.  No two products need the same amount of water, or need it at the same time.  The orange needs more than the grape, the alfalfa more than the orange, the peach and apricot less than the orange; the olive, the fig, the almond, the English walnut, demand each a different supply.  <illus entity="a168-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RAISIN-CURING.</P>
168.sgm:Depending entirely on irrigation six months of the year, the farmer in Southern California is practically certain of his crop year after year; and if all his plants and trees are in a healthful condition, as they will be if he is not too idle to cultivate as well as irrigate, his yield will be about double what it would be without systematic irrigation.  It is this practical control of the water the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>But irrigation, in order to be successful, must be intelligently applied.  In unskilful hands it may work more damage than benefit.  Mr. Theodore S. Van Dyke, who may always be quoted with confidence, says that the ground should never be flooded; that water must not touch the plant or tree, or come near enought to make the soil bake around it; and that it should be let in in small streams for two or three days, and not in large streams for a few hours.  It is of the first importance that the ground shall be stirred as soon as dry enough, the cultivation to be continued, and water never to be substituted for the cultivator to prevent baking.  The methods of irrigation in use may be reduced to three.  First, the old Mexican way--running a small ditch from tree to tree, without any basin round the tree.  Second, the basin system, where a large basin is made round the tree, and filled several times.  This should only be used where water is scarce, for it trains the roots like a brush, instead of sending them out laterally into the soil.  Third, the Riverside method, which is the best in the world, and produces the largest results with the least water and the least work.  It is the closest imitation of the natural process of wetting by gentle rain.  "A small flume, eight or ten inches square, of common red-wood is laid along the upper side of a ten-acre tract.  At intervals of one to three feet, according to the nature of the ground and the stuff to be irrigated, are bored one-inch holes, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>As to the quantity of water needed in the kind of soil most common in Southern California I will again quote Mr. Van Dyke: "They will tell you at Riverside that they use an inch of water to five acres, and some say an inch to three acres.  But this is because they charge to the land all the waste on the main ditch, and because they use thirty per cent. of the water in July and August, when it is the lowest.  But this is no test of the duty of water; the amount actually delivered on the land should be taken.  What they actually use <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:for ten acres at Riverside, Redlands, etc., is a twenty-inch stream of three days' run five times a year, equal to 300 inches for one day, or one inch steady run for 300 days.  <illus entity="a168-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IRRIGATION BY ARTESIAN-WELL SYSTEM.</P>
168.sgm:<P>I have given room to these details because the Riverside experiment, which results in such large returns of excellent fruit, is worthy of the attention of cultivators everywhere.  The constant stirring of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:soil, to keep it loose as well as to keep down useless growths, is second in importance only to irrigation.  Some years ago, when it was ascertained tha tracts of land which had been regarded as only fit for herding cattle and sheep would by good ploughing and constant cultivation produce fair crops without any artificial watering, there spread abroad a notion that irrigation could be dispensed with.  There are large areas, dry and cracked on the surface, where the soil is moist three and four feet below the surface in the dry season.  By keeping the surface broken and well pulverized the moisture rises sufficiently to insure a crop.  <illus entity="a168-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IRRIGATION BY PIPE SYSTEM.</P>
168.sgm:Many Western farmers have found out this secret of cultivation, and more will learn in time the good sense of not spreading themselves over too large an area; that forty acres planted and cultivated will give a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.<LB>THE CHANCE FOR LABORERS AND SMALL FARMERS.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>IT would seem, then, that capital is necessary for successful agriculture or horticulture in Southern California.  But where is it not needed?  In New England?  In Kansas, where land which was given to actual settlers is covered with mortages for money absolutely necessary to develop it?  But passing this by, what is the chance in Southern California for laborers and for mechanics?  Let us understand the situation.  In California there is no exception to the rule that continual labor, thrift, and foresight are essential to the getting of a good living or the gaining of a competence.  No doubt speculation will spring up again.  It is inevitable with the present enormous and yearly increasing yield of fruits, the better intelligence in vine culture, wine-making, and raisin-curing, the growth of marketable oranges, lemons, etc., and the consequent rise in the value of land.  Doubtless fortunes will be made by enterprising companies who secure large areas of unimproved land at low prices, bring water on them, and then sell in small lots.  But this will come to an end.  The tendency is to subdivide the land into small holdings--into farms and gardens of ten and twenty acres.  The great ranches are sure to be broken up.  With the resulting settlement by industrious people the cities will again experience "booms;" but these are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>It goes without saying that in the industries now developed, and in others as important which are in their infancy (for instance, the culture of the olive for oil and as an article of food; the growth and curing of figs; the gathering of almonds, English walnuts, etc.), the labor of the owners of the land and their families will not suffice.  There must be as large a proportion of day-laborers as there are in other regions where such products are grown.  Chinese labor at certain seasons has been a necessity.  Under the present policy of California this must diminish, and its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>During the "boom" period all wages were high, those of skilled mechanics especially, owing to the great amount of building on speculation.  The ordinary laborer on a ranch had $30 a month and board and lodging; laborers of a higher grade, $2 to $2 50 a day; skilled masons, $6; carpenters, from $3 50 to $5; plasterers, $4 to $5; house-servants, from $25 to $35 a month.  Since the "boom," wages of skilled mechanics have declined at least 25 per cent., and there has been less demand for labor generally, except in connection with fruit raising and harvesting.  It would be unwise for laborers to go to California on an uncertainty, but it can be said of that country with more confidence than of any other section that its peculiar industries, now daily increasing, will absorb an increasing amount of day labor, and later on it will remunerate skilled artisan labor.</P>
168.sgm:<P>In deciding whether Southern California would be an agreeable place of residence there are other things to be considered besides the productiveness of the soil, the variety of products, the ease of out-door labor distributed through the year, the certainty of returns for intelligent investment with labor, the equability of summer and winter, and the adaptation to personal health.  There are always disadvantages attending the development of a new country and the evolution of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:new society.  It is not a small thing, and may be one of daily discontent, the change from a landscape clad with verdure, the riotous and irrepressible growth of a rainy region, to a land that the greater part of the year is green only where it is artificially watered, where all <illus entity="a168-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GARDEN, SANTA ANA.</P>
168.sgm:the hills and unwatered plains are brown and sere, where the foliage is coated with dust, and where driving anywhere outside the sprinkled avenues of a town is to be enveloped in a cloud of powdered earth.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>What are the chances for a family of very moderate means to obtain a foothold and thrive by farming in Southern California?  I cannot answer this better than by giving substantially the experience of one family, and by saying that this has been paralleled, with change of details, by many others.  Of course, in a highly developed settlement, where the land is mostly cultivated, and its actual yearly produce makes its price very high, it is not easy to get a foothold.  But there are many regions--say in Orange County, and certainly in San Diego--where land can be had at a moderate price and on easy terms of payment.  Indeed, there are few places, as I have said, where an industrious family would not find welcome and cordial help in establishing itself.  And it must be remembered that there are many communities where life is very simple, and the great expense of keeping up an appearance attending life elsewhere need not be reckoned.</P>
168.sgm:<P>A few years ago a professional man in a New England city, who was in delicate health, with his wife and five boys, all under sixteen, and one too young to be of any service, moved to San Diego.  He had in money a small sum, less than a thousand dollars.  He had no experience in farming or horticulture, and his health would not have permitted him to do much field work in our climate.  Fortunately he found in the fertile El Cajon Valley, fifteen miles from San Diego, a farmer and fruit-grower, who had upon his place a small unoccupied house.  Into that house he moved, furnishing it very simply with furniture bought in San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:Diego, and hired his services to the landlord.  The work required was comparatively easy, in the orchard and vineyards, and consisted largely in superintending other laborers.  The pay was about enough to support his family without encroaching on his little capital.  Very soon, however, he made an arrangement to buy the small house and tract of some twenty acres on which he lived, on time, perhaps making a partial payment.  He began at once to put out an orange orchard and plant a vineyard; this he accomplished with the assistance of his boys, who did practically most of the work after the first planting, leaving him a chance to give most of his days to his employer.  The orchard and vineyard work is so light that a smart, intelligent boy is almost as valuable a worker in the field as a man.  The wife, meantime, kept the house and did its work.  House-keeping was comparatively easy; little fuel was required except for cooking; the question of clothes was minor one.  In that climate wants for a fairly comfortable existence are fewer than with us.  From the first, almost, vegetables, raised upon the ground while the vines and oranges were growing, contributed largely to the support of the family.  The out-door life and freedom from worry insured better health, and the diet of fruit and vegetables, suitable to the climate, reduced the cost of living to a minimum.  As soon as the orchard and the vineyard began to produce fruit, the owner was enabled to quit working for his neighbor, and give all his time to the development of his own place.  He increased his planting; added to his house; he bought a piece of land adjoining which had a grove of eucalyptus, which would supply him with fuel.  At first the society <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.<LB>SOME DETAILS OF THE WONDERFUL DEVELOPMENT.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>IT is not the purpose of this volume to describe Southern California.  That has been thoroughly done; and details, with figures and pictures in regard to every town and settlement, will be forthcoming on application, which will be helpful guides to persons who can see for themselves, or make sufficient allowance for local enthusiasm.  But before speaking further of certain industries south of the great mountain ranges, the region north of the Sierra Madre, which is allied to Southern California by its productions, should be mentioned.  The beautiful antelope plains and the Kern Valley (where land is still cheap and very productive) should not be overlooked.  The splendid San Joaquin Valley is already speaking loudly and clearly for itself.  The region north of the mountains of Kern County, shut in by the Sierra Nevada range on the east and the Coast Range on the west, substantially one valley, fifty to sixty miles in breadth, watered by the King and the San Joaquin, and gently sloping to the north, say for two hundred miles, is a land of marvellous capacity, capable of sustaining a dense population.  It is cooler in winter than Southern California, and the summers average much warmer.  Owing to the greater heat, the fruits mature sooner.  It is just now becoming celebrated for its raisins, which in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The traveller has constantly to remind himself that this is a new country, and to be judged as a new country.  It is out of his experience that trees can grow so fast, and plantations in so short a time put on an appearance of maturity.  When he sees a roomy, pretty cottage overrun with vines and flowering plants, set in the midst of trees and lawns and gardens of tropical appearance and luxuriance, he can hardly believe that three years before this spot was desert land.  When he looks over miles of vineyards, of groves of oranges, olives, walnuts, prunes, the trees all in vigorous bearing, he cannot believe that five or ten years before the whole region was a waste.  When he enters a handsome village, with substantial buildings of brick, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:perhaps of stone, with fine school-houses, banks, hotels, an opera-house, large packing-houses, and ware-houses and shops of all sorts, with tasteful dwellings and lovely ornamented lawns, it is hard to understand <illus entity="a168-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>A GRAPE-VINE, MONTECITO VALLEY, SANTA BARBARA.</P>
168.sgm:<P>San Bernardino is comparatively an old town.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:was settled in 1853 by a colony of Mormons from Salt Lake.  The remains of this colony, less than a hundred, still live here, and have a church like the other sects, but they call themselves Josephites, and do not practise polygamy.  There is probably not a sect or schism in the United States that has not its representative in California.  Until 1865 San Bernardino was merely a straggling settlement, and a point of distribution for Arizona.  The discovery that a large part of the county was adapted to the orange and the vine, and the advent of the Santa Fe&acute; railway, changed all that.  Land that then might have been bought for $4 an acre is now sold at from $200 to $300, and the city has become the busy commercial centre of a large number of growing villages, and of one of the most remarkable orange and vine districts in the world.  It has many fine buildings, a population of about 6000, and a decided air of vigorous business.  The great plain about it is mainly devoted to agricultural products, which are grown without irrigation, while in the near foot-hills the orange and the vine flourish by the aid of irrigation.  Artesian-wells abound in the San Bernardino plain, but the mountains are the great and unfailing source of water supply.  The Bear Valley Dam is a most daring and gigantic construction.  A solid wall of masonry, 300 feet long and 60 feet high, curving towards the reservoir, creates an inland lake in the mountains holding water enough to irrigate 20,000 acres of land.  This is conveyed to distributing reservoirs in the east end of the valley.  On a terrace in the foot-hills a few miles to the north, 2000 feet above the sea, are the Arrow-head Hot Springs (named from the figure of a gigantic "arrow-head" on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Perhaps the settlement of Redlands, ten miles by rail east of San Bernardino, is as good an illustration as any of rapid development and great promise.  It is devoted to the orange and the grape.  As late as 1875 much of it was Government land, considered valueless.  It had a few setters, but the town, which counts now about 2000 people, was only begun in 1887.  It has many solid brick edifices and many pretty cottages on its gentle slopes and rounded hills, overlooked by the great mountains.  The view from any point of vantage of orchards and vineyards and semi-tropical gardens, with the wide sky-line of noble and snow-clad hills, is exceedingly attractive.  The region is watered by the Santa Ana River and Mill Creek, but the main irrigating streams, which make every hill-top to bloom with vegetation, come from the Bear Valley Reservoir.  On a hill to the south of the town the Smiley Brothers, of Catskill fame, are building fine residences, and planting their 125 acres with fruit-trees and vines, evergreens, flowers, and semi-tropic shrubbery in a style of landscape-gardening that in three years at the furthest will make this spot one of the few great showplaces of the country.  Behind their ridge is the San Mateo Can&tilde;on, through which the Southern Pacific Railway runs, while in front are the splendid sloping plains, valleys, and orange groves, and the great sweep of mountains from San Jacinto round to the Sierra <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Riverside may without prejudice be regarded as the centre of the orange growth and trade.  The railway shipments of oranges from Southern California in the season of 1890 aggregated about 2400 car-loads, or about 800,000 boxes, of oranges (in which estimate the lemons are included), valued at about $1,500,000.  Of this shipment more than half was from Riverside.  This has been, of course, greatly stimulated by the improved railroad facilities, among them the shortening of the time to Chicago by the Santa Fe&acute; route, and the running of special fruit trains.  Southern California responds like magic to this chance to send her fruits to the East, and the area planted month by month is something enormous.  It is estimated that the crop of oranges alone in 1891 will be over 4500 car-loads.  We are accustomed to discount all California estimates, but I think that no one yet has comprehended the amount to which the shipments to Eastern markets of vegetables and fresh and canned fruits will reach within five years.  I base my prediction upon some observation of the Eastern demand and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>It should be said, also, that the quality of the oranges has vastly improved.  This is owing to better cultivation, knowledge of proper irrigation, and the adoption of the best varieties for the soil.  <illus entity="a168-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IRRIGATING AN ORCHARD.</P>
168.sgm:As different sorts of oranges mature at different seasons, a variety is needed to give edible fruit in each month from December to May inclusive.  In February, 1887, I could not find an orange of the first class compared with the best fruit in other regions.  It may have been too early for the varieties I tried; but I believe there has been a marked improvement in quality.  In May, 1890, we found delicious oranges almost everywhere.  The seedless Washington and Australian navels are favorites, especially for the market, on account of their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ORANGE CULTURE.  Packing Oranges--Navel Orange-tree Six Years Old--Irrigating an Orange Grove.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>The city of Riverside occupies an area of some five miles by three, and claims to have 6000 inhabitants; the centre is a substantial town with fine school and other public buildings, but the region is one succession of orange groves and vineyards, of comfortable houses and broad avenues.  One avenue through which we drove is 125 feet wide and 12 miles long, planted in three rows with palms, magnolias, the <HI REND="italics">Grevillea robusta</HI>
168.sgm: (Australian fern), the pepper, and the eucalyptus, and lined all the way by splendid orange groves, in the midst of which are houses and grounds with semitropical attractions.  Nothing could be lovelier than such a scene of fruits and flowers, with the background of purple hills and snowy peaks.  The mountain views are superb.  Frost is a rare visitor.  Not in fifteen years has there been enough to affect the orange.   There is little rain after March, but there are fogs and dew-falls, and the ocean breeze is felt daily.  The grape grown for raisins is the muscat, and this has had no "sickness."  Vigilance and a quarantine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The whole region of the Santa Ana and San Gabriel valleys, from the desert on the east to Los Angeles, the city of gardens, is a surprise, and year by year an increasing wonder.  In production it exhausts the catalogue of fruits and flowers; its scenery is varied by ever new combinations of the picturesque and the luxuriant; every town boasts some special advantage in climate, soil, water, or society; but these differences, many of them visible to the eye, cannot appear in any written description.  The traveller may prefer the scenery of Pasadena, or that of Pomona, or of Riverside, but the same words in regard to color, fertility, combinations of orchards, avenues, hills, must appear in the description of each.  Ontario, Pomona, Puente, Alhambra--wherever one goes there is the same wonder of color and production.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Pomona is a pleasant city in the midst of fine orange groves, watered abundantly by artesian-wells and irrigating ditches from a mountain reservoir.  A specimen of the ancient adobe residence is on the Meserve plantation, a lovely old place, with its gardens of cherries, strawberries, olives, and oranges.  From the top of San Jose&acute; hill we had a view of a plain twenty-five miles by fifty in extent, dotted with cultivation, surrounded by mountains--a wonderful prospect.  Pomona, like its sister cities in this region, has a regard for the intellectual side of life, exhibited in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The growth of the olive is to be, it seems to me, one of the leading and most permanent industries of Southern California.  It will give us, what it is nearly impossible to buy now, pure olive oil, in place of the cotton-seed and lard mixture in general use.  It is a most wholesome and palatable article of food.  Those whose chief experience of the olive is the large, coarse, and not agreeable Spanish variety, used only as an appetizer, know little of the value of the best varieties as food, nutritious as meat, and always delicious.  Good bread and a dish of pickled olives make an excellent meal.  The sort known as the Mission olive, planted by the Franciscans a century ago, is generally grown now, and the best fruit is from the older trees.  The most successful attempts in cultivating the olive and putting it on the market have been made by Mr. F. A. Kimball, of National City, and Mr. Ellwood Cooper, of Santa Barbara.  The experiments have gone far enough to show that the industry is very remunerative.  The best olive oil I have ever tasted anywhere is that produced from the Cooper and the Kimball orchards; but not enough is produced to supply the local demand.  Mr. Cooper has written a careful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IN A FIELD OF GOLDEN PUMPKINS.</P>
168.sgm:<P>We drove one day from Arcadia Station through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.<LB>HOW THE FRUIT PERILS WERE MET.--FURTHER DETAILS OF LOCALITIES.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>IN the San Gabriel Valley and elsewhere I saw evidence of the perils that attend the culture of the vine and the fruit-tree in all other countries, and from which California in the early days thought it was exempt.  Within the past three or four years there has prevailed a sickness of the vine, the cause of which is unknown, and for which no remedy has been discovered.  No blight was apparent, but the vine sickened and failed.  The disease was called consumption of the vine.  I saw many vineyards subject to it, and hundreds of acres of old vines had been rooted up as useless.  I was told by a fruit-buyer in Los Angeles that he thought the raisin industry below Fresno was ended unless new planting recovered the vines, and that the great wine fields were about "played out."  The truth I believe to be that the disease is confined to the vineyards of Old Mission grapes.  Whether these had attained the limit of their active life, and sickened, I do not know.  The trouble for a time was alarming; but new plantings of other varieties of grapes have been successful, the vineyards look healthful, and the growers expect no further difficulty.  The planting, which was for a time suspended, has been more vigorously renewed.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>The insect pests attacking the orange were even more serious, and in 1887-88, though little was published about it, there was something like a panic, in the fear that the orange and lemon culture in Southern California would be a failure.  The enemies were the black, the red, and the white scale.  The latter, the <HI REND="italics">icerya purchasi</HI>
168.sgm:, or cottony cushion scale, was especially loathsome and destructive; whole orchards were enfeebled, and no way was discovered of staying its progress, which threatened also the olive and every other tree, shrub, and flower.  Science was called on to discover its parasite.  This was found to be the Australian lady-bug ( <HI REND="italics">vedolia cardinalis</HI>
168.sgm: ), and in 1888-89 quantities of this insect were imported and spread throughout Los Angeles County, and sent to Santa Barbara and other afflicted districts.  The effect was magical.  The <HI REND="italics">vedolia</HI>
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168.sgm:<P>One cannot take anywhere else a more exhilarating, delightful drive than about the rolling, highly cultivated, many-villaed Pasadena, and out to the foothills and the Sierra Madre Villa.  He is constantly exclaiming at the varied loveliness of the scene--oranges, palms, formal gardens, hedges of Monterey cypress.  It is very Italy-like.  The Sierra Madre furnishes abundant water for all the valley, and the swift irrigating stream from Eaton Can&tilde;on waters the Sierra Madre Villa.  Among the peaks above it rises Mt. Wilson, a thousand feet above the plain, the site selected for the Harvard Observatory with its 40-inch glass.  The clearness of the air at this elevation, and the absence of clouds night and day the greater portion of the year, make this a most advantageous position, it is said, to use the glass in dissolving nebul&aelig;.  The Sierra Madre Villa, once the most favorite resort in this region, was closed.  In its sheltered situation, its luxuriant and half-neglected gardens, its wide plantations and irrigating streams, it reminds one of some secularized monastery on the promontory of Sorrento.  It only needs good management to make the hotel very attractive and especially agreeable in the months of winter.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Pasadena, which exhibits everywhere evidences of wealth and culture, and claims a permanent population of 12,000, has the air of a winter resort; the great Hotel Raymond is closed in May, the boarding-houses want occupants, the shops and livery-stables customers, and the streets lack movement.  This is easily explained.  It is not because Pasadena is not an agreeable summer residence, but because the visitors are drawn there in the winter principally to escape the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PACKING CHERRIES, POMONA.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>This attractive region, so lovely in its cultivation, with so many charming drives, offering good shooting on the plains and in the hills, and centrally placed for excursions, is only eight miles from the busy city of Los Angeles.  An excellent point of view of the country is from the graded hill on which stands the Raymond Hotel, a hill isolated but easy of access, which is in itself a mountain of bloom, color, and fragrance.  From all the broad verandas and from every window the prospect is charming, whether the eye rests upon cultivated orchards and gardens and pretty villas, or upon the purple foot-hills and the snowy ranges.  It enjoys a daily ocean breeze, and the air is always exhilarating.  This noble hill is a study in landscape-gardening.  It is a mass of brilliant color, and the hospitality of the region generally to foreign growths may be estimated by the trees acclimated on these slopes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>I can indulge in few locality details except those which are illustrative of the general character of the country.  In passing into Orange County, which was recently set off from Los Angeles, we come into a region of less "fashion," but one that for many reasons is attractive to people of moderate means who are content with independent simplicity.  The country about the thriving village of Santa Ana is very rich, being abundantly watered by the Santa Ana River and by artesian-wells.  The town is nine miles from the ocean.  On the ocean side the land is mainly agricultural; on the inland side it is specially adapted to fruit.  We drove about it, and in Tustin City, which has many pleasant residences and a vacant "boom" hotel, through endless plantations of oranges.  On the road towards Los Angeles we passed large herds of cattle and sheep, and fine groves of the English walnut, which thrives especially well in this soil and the neighborhood of the sea.  There is comparatively little waste land in this valley district, as one may see by driving through the country about Santa Ana, Orange, Anaheim, Tustin City, etc.  Anaheim is a prosperous German colony.  It was here that Madame Modjeska and her husband, Count Bozenta, first settled in California.  They own and occupy now a picturesque ranch in the Santiago Can&tilde;on of the Santa Ana range, twenty-two miles from Santa Ana.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>From Newport, on the coast, or from San Pedro, one may visit the island of Santa Catalina.  Want of time prevented our going there.  Sportsmen enjoy there the exciting pastime of hunting the wild goat.  From the photographs I saw, and from all I heard of it, it must be as picturesque a resort in natural beauty as the British Channel islands.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Los Angeles is the metropolitan centre of all this region.  A handsome, solid, thriving city, environed by gardens, gay everywhere with flowers, it is too well known to require any description from me.  To the traveller from the East it will always be a surprise.  Its growth has been phenomenal, and although it may not equal the expectations of the crazy excitement of 1886-87, 50,000 people is a great assemblage for a new city which numbered only about 11,000 in 1880.  It of course felt the subsidence of the "boom," but while I missed the feverish crowds of 1887, I was struck with its substantial progress in fine, solid buildings, pavements, sewerage, railways, educational facilities, and ornamental grounds.  It has a secure hold on the commerce of the region.  The assessment roll of the city increased from $7,627,632 in 1881 to $44,871,073 in 1889.  Its bank business, public buildings, schoolhouses, and street improvements are in accord with this increase, and show solid, vigorous growth.  It is altogether an attractive city, whether seen on a drive through its well-planted and bright avenues, or looked down on from the hills which are climbed by the cable roads.  A curious social note was the effect of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Although Los Angeles County still produces a considerable quantity of wine and brandy, I have an <illus entity="a168-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OLIVE-TREES SIX YEARS OLD.</P>
168.sgm:impression that the raising of raisins will supplant wine-making largely in Southern California, and that the principal wine producing will be in the northern portions of the State.  It is certain that the best quality is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>It is quite unnecessary to emphasize the attractions of Santa Barbara, or the productiveness of the valleys in the counties of Santa Barbara and Ventura.  There is no more poetic region on the continent than the bay south of Point Conception, and the pen and the camera have made the world tolerably familiar with it.  There is a graciousness, a softness, a color in the sea, the can&tilde;ons, the mountains there that dwell in the memory.  It is capable of inspiring the same love that the Greek colonists felt for the region between the bays of Salerno and Naples.  It is as fruitful as the Italian shores, and can support as dense a population.  The figures that have been given as to productiveness and variety of productions apply to it.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>I have spoken of the rapid growth.  The practical advantage of this as to fruit-trees is that one begins to have an income from them here sooner than in the East.  No one need be under the delusion that he can live in California without work, or thrive without incessant and intelligent industry, but the distinction of the country for the fruit-grower is the rapidity with which trees and vines mature to the extent of being profitable.  But nothing thrives without care, and kindly as the climate is to the weak, it cannot be too much insisted on that this is no place for confirmed invalids who have not money enough to live without work.</P>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>THE ADVANCE OF CULTIVATION SOUTHWARD.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>THE immense county of San Diego is on the threshold of its development.  It has comparatively only spots of cultivation here and there, in an area on the western slope of the county only, that Mr. Van Dyke estimates to contain about one million acres of good arable land for farming and fruit-raising.  This mountainous region is full of charming valleys, and hidden among the hills are fruitful nooks capable of sustaining thriving communities.  There is no doubt about the salubrity of the climate, and one can literally suit himself as to temperature by choosing his elevation.  The traveller by rail down the wild Temecula Can&tilde;on will have some idea of the picturesqueness of the country, and, as he descends in the broadening valley, of the beautiful mountain parks of live-oak and clear running water, and of the richness both for grazing and grain of the ranches of the Santa Margarita, Las Flores, and Santa Rosa.  Or if he will see what a few years of vigorous cultivation will do, he may visit Escondido, on the river of that name, which is at an elevation of less than a thousand feet, and fourteen miles from the ocean.  This is only one of many settlements that have great natural beauty and thrifty industrial life.  In that region are numerous attractive villages.  I have a report from a little can&tilde;on, a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SEXTON NURSERIES, NEAR SANTA BARBARA.</P>
168.sgm:miles north of Escondido, where a woman with an invalid husband settled in 1883.  The ground was thickly covered with brush, and its only product was rabbits and quails.  In 1888 they had 100 acres cleared and fenced, mostly devoted to orchard fruits and berries.  They had in good bearing over 1200 fruit-trees, among them 200 oranges and 283 figs, which yielded one and a half tons of figs a week during the bearing season, from August to November.  The sprouts of the peach-trees grew twelve feet in 1889.  Of course such a little fruit farm as this is the result <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>San Diego will be to the southern part of the State what San Francisco is to the northern.  Nature seems to have arranged for this, by providing a magnificent harbor, when it shut off the southern part by a mountain range.  During the town-lot lunacy it was said that San Diego could not grow because it had no back country, and the retort was that it needed no back country, its harbor would command commerce.  The fallacy of this assumption lay in the forgetfulness of the fact that the profitable and peculiar exports of Southern California must go East by rail, and reach a market in the shortest possible time, and that the inhabitants look to the Pacific for comparatively little of the imports they need.  If the Isthmus route were opened by a ship-canal, San Diego would doubtless have a great share of the Pacific trade, and when the population of that part of the State is large enough to demand great importations from the islands and lands of the Pacific, this harbor will not go begging.  But in its present development the entire Pacific trade of Japan, China, and the islands, gives only a small dividend each to the competing ports.  For these developments this fine harbor must wait, but meantime the wealth and prosperity of San Diego lie at its doors.  A country as large as the three richest New England States, with enormous wealth of mineral and stone in its mountains, with one of the finest climates in the world, with a million acres of arable land, is certainly capable of building up one great seaport town.  These million of acres on the western slope of the mountain ranges of the country are geographically tributary to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The end of the ridiculous speculation in lots of 1887-88 was not so disastrous in the loss of money invested, or even in the ruin of great expectations by the collapse of fictitious values, as in the stoppage of immigration.  The country has been ever since adjusting itself to a normal growth, and the recovery is just in proportion to the arrival of settlers who come to work and not to speculate.  I had heard that the "boom" had left San Diego and vicinity the "deadest" region to be found anywhere.  A speculator would probably so regard it.  But the people have had a great accession of common-sense.  The expectation of attracting settlers by a fictitious show has subsided, and attention is directed to the development of the natural riches of the country.  Since the boom San Diego has perfected a splendid system of drainage, paved its streets, extended its railways, built up the business part of the town solidly and handsomely, and greatly improved the mesa above the town.  In all essentials of permanent growth it is much better in appearance than in 1887.  Business is better organized, and, best of all, there is an intelligent appreciation of the agricultural resources of the country.  It is discovered that San Diego has a "back country" capable of producing great wealth.  The Chamber of Commerce has organized a permanent exhibition of products.  It is assisted in this work of stimulation by competition by a "Ladies' Annex," a society numbering some five hundred ladies, who devote themselves not to &aelig;sthetic pursuits, but to the quickening of all the industries of the farm and the garden, and all public improvements.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:To the mere traveller who devotes only a couple of weeks to an examination of this region it is evident that the spirit of industry is in the ascendant, and the result is a most gratifying increase in orchards and vineyards, and the storage and distribution of water for irrigation.  The region is unsurpassed for the production of the orange, the lemon, the raisin-grape, the fig, and the olive.  The great reservoir of the Cuyamaca, which supplies San Diego, sends its flume around the fertile valley of El Cajon (which has already a great reputation for its raisins), and this has <illus entity="a168-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SWEETWATER DAM.</P>
168.sgm:become a garden, the land rising in value every year.  The region of National City and Chula Vista is supplied by the reservoir made by the great Sweetwater Dam--a marvel of engineering skill-and is not only most productive in fruit, but is attractive by pretty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>A LAND OF AGREEABLE HOMES.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>IN this imperfect conspectus of a vast territory I should be sorry to say anything that can raise false expectations.  Our country is very big; and though scarcely any part of it has not some advantages, and notwithstanding the census figures of our population, it will be a long time before our vast territory will fill up.  California must wait with the rest; but it seems to me to have a great future.  Its position in the Union with regard to its peculiar productions is unique.  It can and will supply us with much that we now import, and labor and capital sooner or later will find their profit in meeting the growing demand for California products.</P>
168.sgm:<P>There are many people in the United States who could prolong life by moving to Southern California; there are many who would find life easier there by reason of the climate, and because out-door labor is more agreeable there the year through; many who have to fight the weather and a niggardly soil for existence could there have pretty little homes with less expense of money and labor.  It is well that people for whom this is true should know it.  It need not influence those who are already well placed to try the fortune of a distant country and new associations.</P>
168.sgm:<P>I need not emphasize the disadvantage in regard to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.<LB>SOME WONDERS BY THE WAY.--YOSEMITE.--MARIPOSA TREES.--MONTEREY.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>I WENT to it with reluctance.  I shrink from attempting to say anything about it.  If you knew that there was one spot on the earth where Nature kept her secret of secrets, the key to the action of her most gigantic and patient forces through the long eras, the marvel of constructive and destructive energy, in features of sublimity made possible to mental endurance by the most exquisite devices of painting and sculpture, the wonder which is without parallel or comparison, would you not hesitate to approach it?  Would you not wander and delay with this and that wonder, and this and that beauty and nobility of scenery, putting off the day when the imagination, which is our highest gift, must be extinguished by the reality?  The mind has this judicious timidity.  Do we not loiter in the avenue of the temple, dallying with the vista of giant plane-trees and statues, and noting the carving and the color, mentally shrinking from the moment when the full glory shall burst upon us?  We turn and look when we are near a summit, we pick a flower, we note the shape of the clouds, the passing breeze, before we take the last step that shall reveal to us the vast panorama of mountains and valleys.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>I cannot bring myself to any description of the Grand Can&tilde;on of the Colorado by any other route, mental or physical, than that by which we reached it, by the way of such beauty as Monterey, such a wonder as the Yosemite, and the infinite and picturesque deserts of New Mexico and Arizona.  I think the mind needs the training in the desert scenery to enable it to grasp the unique sublimity of the Grand Can&tilde;on.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The road to the Yosemite, after leaving the branch of the Southern Pacific at Raymond, is an unnecessarily fatiguing one.  The journey by stage--sixty-five miles--is accomplished in less than two days--thirty-nine miles the first day, and twenty-six the second.  The driving is necessarily slow, because two mountain ridges have to be surmounted, at an elevation each of about 6500 feet.  The road is not a "road" at all as the term is understood in Switzerland, Spain, or in any highly civilized region--that is, a graded, smooth, hard, and sufficiently broad track.  It is a makeshift highway, generally narrow (often too narrow for two teams to pass), cast up with loose material, or excavated on the slopes with frequent short curves and double curves.  Like all mountain roads which skirt precipices, it may seem "pokerish," but it is safe enough if the drivers are skilful and careful (all the drivers on this route are not only excellent, but exceedingly civil as well), and there is no break in wagon or harness.  At the season this trip is made the weather is apt to be warm, but this would not matter so much if the road were not intolerably dusty.  Over a great part of the way the dust rises in clouds and is stifling.  On a well-engineered road, with a good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>From 1855 to 1864, nine years, the Yosemite had 653 visitors; in 1864 there were 147.  The number increased steadily till 1869, the year the overland railroad was completed, when it jumped to 1122.  Between 4000 and 5000 persons visit it now each year.  The number would be enormously increased if it could be reached by rail, and doubtless a road will be built to the valley in the near future, perhaps up the Merced River.  I believe that the pilgrims who used to go to the Yosemite on foot or on horseback regret the building of the stage road, the enjoyment of the wonderful valley being somehow cheapened by the comparative ease of reaching it.  It is feared that a railway would still further cheapen, if it did not vulgarize it, and that passengers by train would miss the mountain scenery, the splendid forests, the surprises of the way (like the first view of the valley from Inspiration Point), and that the Mariposa big trees would be farther off the route than they are now.  The traveller sees them now by driving eight miles from Wawona, the end of the first day's staging.  But the romance for the few there is in staging will have to give way to the greater comfort of the many by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE YOSEMITE DOME.</P>
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168.sgm:rail.  The railway will do no more injury to the Yosemite than it has done to Niagara, and, in fact, will be the means of immensely increasing the comfort of the visitor's stay there, besides enabling tens of thousands of people to see it who cannot stand the fatigue of the stage ride over the present road.  The Yosemite will remain as it is.  The simplicity of its grand features is unassailable so long as the Government protects the forests that surround it and the streams that pour into it.  The visitor who goes there by rail will find plenty of adventure for days and weeks in following the mountain trails, ascending to the great points of view, exploring the can&tilde;ons, or climbing so as to command the vast stretch of the snowy Sierras.  Or, if he is not inclined to adventure, the valley itself will satisfy his highest imaginative flights of the sublime in rock masses and perpendicular ledges, and his sense of beauty in the graceful water-falls, rainbow colors, and exquisite lines of domes and pinnacles.  It is in the grouping of objects of sublimity and beauty that the Yosemite excels.  The narrow valley, with its gigantic walls, which vary in every change of the point of view, lends itself to the most astonishing scenic effects, and these the photograph has reproduced, so that the world is familiar with the striking features of the valley, and has a tolerably correct idea of the sublimity of some of these features.  What the photograph cannot do is to give an impression of the unique grouping, of the majesty, and at times crushing weight upon the mind of the forms and masses, of the atmospheric splendor and illusion, and of the total value of such an assemblage of wonders.  The level surface of the peaceful, park-like valley has much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:to do with the impression.  The effect of El Capitan, seen across a meadow and rising from a beautiful park, is much greater than if it were encountered in a savage mountain gorge.  The traveller may have seen elsewhere greater water-falls, and domes and spires of rock as surprising, but he has nowhere else seen such a combination as this.  He may be fortified against surprise by the photographs he has seen and the reports of word painters, but he will not escape (say, at Inspiration Point, or Artist Point, or other lookouts), a quickening of the pulse and an elation which is physical as well as mental, in the sight of such unexpected sublimity and beauty.  And familiarity will scarcely take off the edge of his delight, so varied are the effects in the passing hours and changing lights.  The Rainbow Fall, when water is abundant, is exceedingly impressive as well as beautiful.  Seen from the carriage road, pouring out of the sky overhead, it gives a sense of power, and at the proper hour before sunset, when the vast mass of leaping, foaming water is shot through with the colors of the spectrum, it is one of the most exquisite sights the world can offer; the elemental forces are overwhelming, but the loveliness is engaging.  One turns from this to the noble mass of El Capitan with a shock of surprise, however often it may have been seen.  This is the hour also, in the time of high-water, to see the reflection of the Yosemite Falls.  As a spectacle it is infinitely finer than anything at Mirror Lake, and is unique in its way.  To behold this beautiful series of falls, flowing down out of the blue sky above, and flowing up out of an equally blue sky in the depths of the earth, is a sight not to be forgotten.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:And when the observer passes from these displays to the sight of the aerial domes in the upper end of the valley, new wonders opening at every turn of the forest road, his excitement has little chance of subsiding: he may be even a little oppressed.  <illus entity="a168-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>COAST OF MONTEREY.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Noble simplicity is the key-note to the scenery of the Yosemite, and this is enhanced by the park-like appearance of the floor of the valley.  The stems of the fine trees are in harmony with the perpendicular lines, and their foliage adds the necessary contrast to the gray rock masses.  In order to preserve these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:forest-trees, the underbrush, which is liable to make a conflagration in a dry season, should be removed generally, and the view of the great features be left unimpeded.  The minor can&tilde;ons and the trails are, of course, left as much as possible to the riot of vegetation.  The State Commission, which labors under the disadvantages of getting its supplies from a Legislature that does not appreciate the value of the Yosemite to California, has developed the trails judiciously, and established a model trail service.  The Yosemite, it need not be said, is a great attraction to tourists from all parts of the world; it is the interest of the State, therefore, to increase their number by improving the <illus entity="a168-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CYPRESS POINT.</P>
168.sgm:<P>This is as true of the Mariposa big tree region as of the valley.  Indeed, more care is needed for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:trees than for the great chasm, for man cannot permanently injure the distinctive features of the latter, while the destruction of the sequoias will be an irreparable loss to the State and to the world.  The <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
168.sgm: differs in leaf, and size and shape of cone, from <illus entity="a168-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>NEAR SEAL ROCK</P>
168.sgm:the great <HI REND="italics">Sequoia semper virens</HI>
168.sgm: on the coast near Santa Cruz; neither can be spared.  The Mariposa trees, scattered along on a mountain ridge 6500 feet above the sea, do not easily obtain their victory, for they are a part of a magnificent forest of other growths, among which the noble sugar-pine is conspicuous for its enormous size and graceful vigor.  The sequoias dominate among splendid rivals only by a magnitude that has no comparison elsewhere in the world.  I think no one can anticipate the effect that one of these monarchs will have upon him.  He has read that a coach and six can drive through one of the trees that is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:standing; that another is thirty-three feet in diameter, and that its vast stem, 350 feet high, is crowned with a mass of foliage that seems to brush against the sky.  He might be prepared for a tower 100 feet in circumference, and even 400 feet high, standing upon a level plain; but this living growth is quite another affair.  Each tree is an individual, and has a personal character.  No man can stand in the presence of one of these giants without a new sense of the age of the world and the insignificant span of one human life; but he is also overpowered by a sense of some gigantic personality.  It does not relieve him to think of this as the Methuselah of trees, or to call it by the name of some great poet or captain.  The awe the tree inspires is of itself.  As one lies and looks up at the enormous bulk, it seems not so much the bulk, so lightly is it carried, as the spirit of the tree--the elastic vigor, the patience, the endurance of storm and change, the confident might, and the soaring, almost contemptuous pride, that overwhelm the puny spectator.  It is just because man can measure himself, his littleness, his brevity of existence, with this growth out of the earth, that he is more personally impressed by it than he might be by the mere variation in the contour of the globe which is called a mountain.  The imagination makes a plausible effort to comprehend it, and is foiled.  No; clearly it is not mere size that impresses one; it is the dignity, the character in the tree, the authority and power of antiquity.  Side by side of these venerable forms are young sequoias, great trees themselves, that have only just begun their millennial career--trees that will, if spared, perpetuate to remote ages this race of giants, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LAGUNA, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>The transition from the sublime to the exquisitely lovely in nature can nowhere else be made with more celerity than from the Sierras to the coast at Monterey; California abounds in such contrast and surprises.  After the great stirring of the emotions by the Yosemite and the Mariposa, the Hotel del Monte Park and vicinity offer repose, and make an appeal to the sense of beauty and refinement.  Yet even here something unique is again encountered.  I do not refer to the extraordinary beauty of the giant live-oaks and the landscape-gardening about the hotel, which have made Monterey famous the world over, but to the sea-beach drive of sixteen miles, which can scarcely be rivalled elsewhere either for marine loveliness or variety of coast scenery.  It has points like the ocean drive at Newport, but is altogether on a grander scale, and shows a more poetic union of shore and sea; besides, it offers the curious and fascinating spectacles of the rocks inhabited by the sea-lions, and the Cypress Point.  These huge, uncouth creatures can be seen elsewhere, but probably nowhere else on this coast are they massed in greater numbers.  The trees of Cypress Point are unique, this species of cypress having been found nowhere else.  The long, never-ceasing swell of the Pacific incessantly flows up the many crescent sand beaches, casting up shells of brilliant hues, sea-weed, and kelp, which seems instinct with animal life, and flotsam from the far-off islands.  But the rocks that lie off the shore, and the jagged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>FASCINATIONS OF THE DESERT.--THE LAGUNA PUEBLO.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>THE traveller to California by the Santa Fe&acute; route comes into the arid regions gradually, and finds each day a variety of objects of interest that upsets his conception of a monotonous desert land.  If he chooses to break the continental journey midway, he can turn aside at Las Vegas to the Hot Springs.  Here, at the head of a picturesque valley, is the Montezuma Hotel, a luxurious and handsome house, 6767 feet above sea-level, a great surprise in the midst of the broken and somewhat savage New Mexican scenery.  The low hills covered with pines and pin&tilde;ons, the romantic glens, and the wide views from the elevations about the hotel, make it an attractive place; and a great deal has been done, in the erection of bath-houses, ornamental gardening, and the grading of roads and walks, to make it a comfortable place.  The latitude and the dryness of the atmosphere insure for the traveller from the North in our winter an agreeable reception, and the elevation makes the spot in the summer a desirable resort from Southern heat.  It is a sanitarium as well as a pleasure resort.  The Hot Springs have much the same character as the To&uml;plitz waters in Bohemia, and the saturated earth--the <HI REND="italics">Mu&uml;tterlager</HI>
168.sgm: --furnishes the curative "mud baths" which are enjoyed at Marienbad and Carlsbad.  The union of the climate, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:which is so favorable in diseases of the respiratory organs, with the waters, which do so much for rheumatic sufferers, gives a distinction to Las Vegas Hot Springs.  This New Mexican air--there is none purer on the globe--is an enemy to hay-fever and malarial diseases.  It was a wise enterprise to provide that those who wish to try its efficacy can do so at the Montezuma without giving <illus entity="a168-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHURCH AT LAGUNA.</P>
168.sgm:<P>It is difficult to explain to one who has not seen it, or will not put himself in the leisurely frame of mind to enjoy it, the charms of the desert of the high plateaus of New Mexico and Arizona.  Its arid character is not so impressive as its ancientness; and the part which interests us is not only the procession of the long geologic eras, visible in the extinct volcanoes, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<HI REND="italics">barrancas</HI>
168.sgm:<P>We stopped one day at Laguna, which is on the Santa Fe&acute; line west of Isleta, another Indian pueblo at the Atlantic and Pacific junction, where the road crosses the Rio Grande del Norte west of Albuquerque.  Near Laguna a little stream called the Rio Puerco flows southward and joins the Rio Grande.  There is verdure along these streams, and gardens and fruit orchards repay the rude irrigation.  In spite of these watercourses the aspect of the landscape is wild and desert-like--low barren hills and ragged ledges, wide sweeps of sand and dry gray bushes, with mountains and long lines of horizontal ledges in the distance.  Laguna is built upon a rounded elevation of rock.  Its appearance is exactly that of a Syrian village, the same cluster of little, square, flat-roofed houses in terraces, the same brown color, and under the same pale <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:blue sky.  And the resemblance was completed by the figures of the women on the roofs, or moving down the slope, erect and supple, carrying on the head a water jar, and holding together by one hand the mantle worn like a Spanish <HI REND="italics">rebozo</HI>
168.sgm:.  The village is irregularly built, without much regard to streets or alleys, and it has no special side of entrance or approach.  Every side presents a blank wall of adobe, and the entrance seems quite by chance.  Yet the way we went over, the smooth slope was worn here and there in channels three or four inches deep, as if by the passing feet of many generations.  The only semblance of architectural regularity is in the plaza, not perfectly square, upon which some of the houses look, and where the annual dances take place.  The houses have the effect of being built in terraces rising one above the other, but it is hard to say exactly what a house is--whether it is anything more than one room.  You can reach some of the houses only by aid of a ladder.  You enter others from the street.  If you will go farther you must climb a ladder which brings you to the roof that is used as the sitting-room or dooryard of the next room.  From this room you may still ascend to others, or you may pass through low and small door-ways to other apartments.  It is all haphazard, but exceedingly picturesque.  You may find some of the family in every room, or they may be gathered, women and babies, on a roof which is protected by a parapet.  At the time of our visit the men were all away at work in their fields.  Notwithstanding the houses are only sun-dried bricks, and the village is without water or street commissioners, I was struck by the universal cleanliness.  There was no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TERRACED HOUSES, PUEBLO OF LAGUNA.</P>
168.sgm:refuse in the corners or alleys, no odors, and many of the rooms were patterns of neatness.  To be sure, an old woman here and there kept her hens in an adjoining apartment above her own, and there was the litter of children and of rather careless house-keeping.  But, taken altogether, the town is an example for some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>We were put on friendly terms with the whole settlement through three or four young maidens who had been at Carlisle school, and spoke English very prettily.  They were of the ages of fifteen and sixteen, and some of them had been five years away.  They came back, so far as I could learn, gladly to their own people and to the old ways.  They had resumed the Indian dress, which is much more becoming to them, as I think they know, than that which had been imposed upon them.  I saw no books.  They do not read any now, and they appear to be perfectly content with the idle drudgery of their semi-savage condition.  In time they will marry in their tribe, and the school episode will be a thing of the past.  But not altogether.  The pretty Josephine, who was our best cicerone about the place, a girl of lovely eyes and modest mien, showed us with pride her own room, or "house," as she called it, neat as could be, simply furnished with an iron bedstead and snow-white cot, a mirror, chair, and table, and a trunk, and some "advertising" prints on the walls.  She said that she was needed at home to cook for her aged mother, and her present ambition was to make money enough by the sale of pottery and curios to buy a cooking stove, so that she could cook more as the whites do.  The house-work of the family had mainly fallen upon her; but it was not burdensome, I fancied, and she and the other girls of her age had leisure to go to the station on the arrival of every train, in hope of selling something to the passengers, and to sit on the rocks in the sun and dream as maidens do.  I fancy it would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The whole community were very complaisant and friendly when we came to know them well, which we did in the course of an hour, and they enjoyed as much as we did the bargaining for pottery.  They have for sale a great quantity of small pieces, fantastic in form and brilliantly colored--toys, in fact; but we found in their houses many beautiful jars of large size and excellent shape, decorated most effectively.  The ordinary utensils for cooking and for cooling water are generally pretty in design and painted artistically.  Like the ancient Peruvians, they make many vessels in the forms of beasts and birds.  Some of the designs of the decoration are highly conventionalized, and others are just in the proper artistic line of the natural--a spray with a bird, or a sunflower on its stalk.  The ware is all unglazed, exceedingly light and thin, and baked so hard that it has a metallic sound when struck.  Some of the large jars are classic in shape, and recall in form and decoration the ancient Cypriote ware, but the colors are commonly brilliant and barbaric.  The designs seem to be indigenous, and to betray little Spanish influence.  The art displayed in this pottery is indeed wonderful, and, to my eye, much more effective and lastingly pleasing than much of our cultivated decoration.  A couple of handsome jars that I bought of an old woman, she assured me she made and decorated herself; but I saw no ovens there, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>It did not seem to be a very religious community, although the town has a Catholic church, and I understand that Protestant services are sometimes held in the place.  The church is not much frequented, and the only evidence of devotion I encountered was in a woman who wore a large and handsome silver cross, made by the Navajos.  When I asked its price, she clasped it to her bosom, with an upward look full of faith and of refusal to part with her religion at any price.  The church, which is adobe, and at least two centuries old, is one of the most interesting I have seen anywhere.  It is a simple parallelogram, 104 feet long and 21 feet broad, the gable having an opening in which the bells hang.  The interior is exceedingly curious, and its decorations are worth reproduction.  The floor is of earth, and many of the tribe who were distinguished and died long ago are said to repose under its smooth surface, with nothing to mark their place of sepulture.  It has an open timber roof, the beams supported upon carved corbels.  The ceiling is made of wooden sticks, about two inches in diameter and some four feet long, painted in alternated colors--red, blue, orange, and black--and so twisted or woven together as to produce the effect of plaited straw, a most novel and agreeable decoration.  Over the entrance is a small gallery, the under roof of which is composed of sticks laid in straw pattern and colored.  All around the wall runs a most striking dado, an odd, angular pattern, with conventionalized birds at intervals, painted in strong yet <HI REND="italics">fade</HI>
168.sgm: colors--red, yellow, black, and white.  The north wall is without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GRAND CAN&tilde;ON ON THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM POINT SUBLIME.</P>
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168.sgm:windows; all the light, when the door is closed, comes from two irregular windows, without glass, high up in the south wall.  The chancel walls are covered with frescos, and there are several quaint paintings, some of them not very bad in color and drawing.  The altar, which is supported at the sides by twisted wooden pillars, carved with a knife, is hung with ancient sheepskins brightly painted.  Back of the altar are some archaic wooden images, colored; and over the altar, on the ceiling, are the stars of heaven, and the sun and the moon, each with a face in it.  The interior was scrupulously clean and sweet and restful to one coming in from the glare of the sun on the desert.  It was evidently little used, and the Indians who accompanied us seemed under no strong impression of its sanctity; but we liked to linger in it, it was so <HI REND="italics">bizarre</HI>
168.sgm:<P>These are children of the desert, kin in their condition and the influences that formed them to the sedentary tribes of upper Egypt and Arabia, who pitch their villages upon the rocky eminences, and depend for subsistence upon irrigation and scant pasturage.  Their habits are those of the dwellers in an arid land which has little in common with the wilderness--the inhospitable northern wilderness of rain and frost and snow.  Rain, to be sure, insures some sort of vegetation in the most forbidding and intractable country, but that does not save the harsh landscape from being unattractive.  The high plateaus of New Mexico and Arizona have everything that the rainy wilderness <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH AT LAGUNA.</P>
168.sgm:lacks--sunshine, heaven's own air, immense breadth of horizon, color and infinite beauty of outline, and a warm soil with unlimited possibilities when moistened.  All that these deserts need is water.  A fatal want?  No.  That is simply saying that science can do for this region what it cannot do for thehigh wilderness of frost--by the transportation of water transform it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>I confess that these deserts in the warm latitudes fascinate me.  Perhaps it is because I perceive in them such a chance for the triumph of the skill of man, seeing how, here and there, his energy has pushed the desert out of his path across the continent.  But I fear that I am not so practical.  To many the desert in its stony sterility, its desolateness, its unbroken solitude, its fantastic savageness, is either appalling or repulsive.  To them it is tiresome and monotonous.  The vast plains of Kansas and Nebraska are monotonous even in the agricultural green of summer.  Not so to me the desert.  It is as changeable in its lights and colors as the ocean.  It is even in its general features of sameness never long the same.  If you traverse it on foot or on horseback, there is ever some minor novelty.  And on the swift train, if you draw down the curtain against the glare, or turn to your book, you are sure to miss something of interest--a deep can&tilde;on rift in the plain, a turn that gives a wide view glowing in a hundred hues in the sun, a savage gorge with beetling rocks, a solitary butte or red truncated pyramid thrust up into the blue sky, a horizontal ledge cutting the horizon line as straight as a ruler for miles, a pointed cliff uplifted sheer from the plain and laid in regular courses of Cyclopean masonry, the battlements of a fort, a terraced castle with towers and esplanade, a great trough of a valley, gray and parched, enclosed by far purple mountains.  And then the unlimited freedom of it, its infinite expansion, its air like wine to the senses, the floods of sunshine, the waves of color, the translucent atmosphere that aids the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.<LB>THE HEART OF THE DESERT.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>THERE is an arid region lying in Northern Arizona and Southern Utah which has been called the District of the Grand Can&tilde;on of the Colorado.  The area, roughly estimated, contains from 13,000 to 16,000 square miles--about the size of the State of Maryland.  This region, fully described by the explorers and studied by the geologists in the United States service, but little known to even the travelling public, is probably the most interesting territory of its size on the globe.  At least it is unique.  In attempting to convey an idea of it the writer can be assisted by no comparison, nor can he appeal in the minds of his readers to any experience of scenery that can apply here.  The so-called Grand Can&tilde;on differs not in degree from all other scenes; it differs in kind.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The Colorado River flows southward through Utah, and crosses the Arizona line below the junction with the San Juan.  It continues southward, flowing deep in what is called the Marble Can&tilde;on, till it is joined by the Little Colorado, coming up from the south-east; it then turns westward in a devious line until it drops straight south, and forms the western boundary of Arizona.  The centre of the district mentioned is the westwardly flowing part of the Colorado.  South of the river is the Colorado Plateau, at a general <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>If the Grand Can&tilde;on itself did not dwarf everything else, the scenery of these plateaus would be superlative in interest.  It is not all desert, nor are the gorges, can&tilde;ons, cliffs, and terraces, which gradually prepare the mind for the comprehension of the Grand Can&tilde;on, the only wonders of this land of enchantment.  These are contrasted with the sylvan scenery of the Kaibab Plateau, its giant forests and parks, and broad meadows decked in the summer with wild flowers in dense masses of scarlet, white, purple, and yellow.  The Vermilion Cliffs, the Pink Cliffs, the White Cliffs, surpass in fantastic form and brilliant color anything that the imagination conceives possible in nature, and there are dreamy landscapes quite beyond the most exquisite fancies of Claude and of Turner.  The region is full of wonders, of beauties, and sublimities that Shelley's imaginings do not match in the "Prometheus Unbound," and when it becomes accessible to the tourist it will offer an endless field for the delight of those whose minds can rise to the heights of the sublime and the beautiful.  In all imaginative writing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GRAND CAN&tilde;ON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW OPPOSITE POINT SUBLIME.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>The point where we struck the Grand Can&tilde;on, approaching it from the south, is opposite the promontory in the Kaibab Plateau named Point Sublime by Major Powell, just north of the 36th parallel, and 112&deg; 15' west longitude.  This is only a few miles west of the junction with the Little Colorado.  About three or four miles west of this junction the river enters the east slope of the east Kaibab monocline, and here the Grand Canon begins.  Rapidly the chasm deepens to about 6000 feet, or rather it penetrates a higher country, the slope of the river remaining about the same.  Through this lofty plateau--an elevation of 7000 to 9000 feet--the chasm extends for sixty miles, gradually changing its course to the north-west, and entering the Kanab Plateau.  The Kaibab division of the Grand Can&tilde;on is by far the sublimest of all, being 1000 feet deeper than any other.  It is not grander only on account of its greater depth, but it is broader and more diversified with magnificent architectural features.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>The Kanab division, only less magnificent than the Kaibab, receives the Kanab Can&tilde;on from the north and the Cataract Can&tilde;on from the south, and ends at the Toroweap Valley.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The section of the Grand Can&tilde;on seen by those who take the route from Peach Springs is between 113&deg; and 114&deg; west longitude, and, though wonderful, presents few of the great features of either the Kaibab or the Kanab divisions.  The Grand Can&tilde;on ends, west longitude 114&deg;, at the Great Wash, west of the Hurricane Ledge or Fault.  Its whole length from Little Colorado to the Great Wash, measured by the meanderings of the surface of the river, is 220 miles; by a median line between the crests of the summits of the walls with two-mile cords, about 195 miles; the distance in a straight line is 125 miles.</P>
168.sgm:<P>In our journey to the Grand Can&tilde;on we left the Santa Fe&acute; line at Flagstaff, a new town with a lively lumber industry, in the midst of a spruce-pine forest which occupies the broken country through which the road passes for over fifty miles.  The forest is open, the trees of moderate size are too thickly set with low-growing limbs to make clean lumber, and the foliage furnishes the minimum of shade; but the change to these woods is a welcome one from the treeless reaches of the desert on either side.  The can&tilde;on is also reached from Williams, the next station west, the distance being a little shorter, and the point on the can&tilde;on visited being usually a little farther west.  But the Flagstaff route is for many reasons usually preferred.  Flagstaff lies just south-east of the San Francisco Mountain, and on the great Colorado Plateau, which has a pretty uniform elevation of about 7000 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:feet above the sea.  The whole region is full of interest.  Some of the most remarkable cliff dwellings are within ten miles of Flagstaff, on the Walnut Creek Can&tilde;on.  <illus entity="a168-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TOURISTS IN THE COLORADO CAN&tilde;ON.</P>
168.sgm:At Holbrook, 100 miles east, the traveller finds a road some forty miles long, that leads to the great petrified forest, or Chalcedony Park.  Still farther east are the villages of the Pueblo Indians, near the line, while to the northward is the great reservation of the Navajos, a nomadic tribe celebrated for its fine blankets and pretty work in silver--a tribe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Flagstaff is the best present point of departure, because it has a small hotel, good supply stores, and a large livery-stable, made necessary by the business of the place and the objects of interest in the neighborhood, and because one reaches from there by the easiest road the finest scenery incomparably on the Colorado.  The distance is seventy-six miles through a practically uninhabited country, much of it a desert, and with water very infrequent.  No work has been done on the road; it is made simply by driving over it.  There are a few miles here and there of fair wheeling, but a good deal of it is intolerably dusty or exceedingly stony, and progress is slow.  In the daytime (it was the last of June) the heat is apt to be excessive; but this could be borne, the air is so absolutely dry and delicious, and breezes occasionally spring up, if it were not for the dust.  It is, notwithstanding the novelty of the adventure and of the scenery by the way, a tiresome journey of two days.  A day of rest is absolutely required at the can&tilde;on, so that five days must be allowed for the trip.  This will cost the traveller, according to the size of the party made up, from forty to fifty dollars.  But a much longer sojourn at the can&tilde;on is desirable.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Our party of seven was stowed in and on an old Concord coach drawn by six horses, and piled with camp equipage, bedding, and provisions.  A four-horse team followed, loaded with other supplies and cooking utensils.  The road lies on the east side of the San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>We lunched at noon beside a swift, clouded, cold stream of snow-water from the San Francisco, along which grew a few gnarled cedars and some brilliant wild flowers.  The scene was more than picturesque; in the clear hot air of the desert the distant landscape made a hundred pictures of beauty.  Behind us the dark form of San Francisco rose up 6000 feet to its black crater and fields of spotless snow.  Away off to the north-east, beyond the brown and gray pastures, across a far line distinct in dull color, lay the Painted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Our camp for the night was at the next place where water could be obtained, a station of the Arizona Cattle Company.  Abundant water is piped down to it from mountain springs.  The log-house and stable of the cow-boys were unoccupied, and we pitched our tent on a knoll by the corral.  The night was absolutely dry, and sparkling with the starlight.  A part of the company spread their blankets on the ground under the sky.  It is apt to be cold in this region towards morning, but lodging in the open air is no hardship in this delicious climate.  The next day the way part of the distance, with only a road marked by wagon wheels, was through extensive and barren-looking cattle ranges, through pretty vales of grass surrounded by stunted cedars, and over stormy ridges and plains of sand and small bowlders.  The water having failed at Red Horse, the only place where it is usually found in the day's march, our horses went without, and we had resource to our canteens.  The whole country is essentially arid, but snow falls in the winter-time, and its melting, with occasional showers in the summer, create what are called surface wells, made by drainage.  Many of them go dry by June.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:There had been no rain in the region since the last of March, but clouds were gathering daily, and showers are always expected in July.  The phenomenon of rain on this baked surface, in this hot air, and with this immense horizon, is very interesting.  Showers in this tentative time are local.  In our journey we saw showers far off, we experienced a dash for ten minutes, but it was local, covering not more than a mile or two square.  We have in sight a vast canopy of blue sky, of forming and dispersing clouds.  It is difficult for them to drop their moisture in the rising columns of hot air.  The result at times was a very curious spectacle--rain in the sky that did not reach the earth.  Perhaps some cold current high above us would condense the moisture, which would begin to fall in long trailing sweeps, blown like fine folds of muslin, or like sheets of dissolving sugar, and then the hot air of the earth would dissipate it, and the showers would be absorbed in the upper regions.  The heat was sometimes intense, but at intervals a refreshing wind would blow, the air being as fickle as the rain; and now and then we would see a slender column of dust, a thousand or two feet high, marching across the desert, apparently not more than two feet in diameter, and wavering like the threads of moisture that tried in vain to reach the earth as rain.  Of life there was not much to be seen in our desert route.  In the first day we encountered no habitation except the ranch-house mentioned, and saw no human being; and the second day none except the solitary occupant of the dried well at Red Horse, and two or three Indians on the hunt.  A few squirrels were seen, and a rabbit now and then, and occasionally a bird.  The general <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.<LB>ON THE BRINK OF THE GRAND CAN&tilde;ON.--THE UNIQUE MARVEL OF NATURE.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>THE way seemed long.  With the heat and dust and slow progress, it was exceedingly wearisome.  Our modern nerves are not attuned to the slow crawling of a prairie-wagon.  There had been growing for some time in the coach a feeling that the journey did not pay; that, in fact, no mere scenery could compensate for the fatigue of the trip.  The imagination did not rise to it.  "It will have to be a very big can&tilde;on," said the duchess.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Late in the afternoon we entered an open pine forest, passed through a meadow where the Indians had set their camp by a shallow pond, and drove along a ridge, in the cool shades, for three or four miles.  Suddenly, on the edge of a descent, we who were on the box saw through the tree-tops a vision that stopped the pulse for a second, and filled us with excitement.  It was only a glimpse, far off and apparently lifted up--red towers, purple cliffs, wide-spread apart, hints of color and splendor; on the right distance, mansions, gold and white and carmine (so the light made them), architectural habitations in the sky it must be, and suggestions of others far off in the middle distance--a substantial aerial city, or the ruins of one, such as the prophet saw in a vision.  It was only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>We descended into a hollow.  There was the well, a log-cabin, a tent or two under the pine-trees.  We dismounted with impatient haste.  The sun was low in the horizon, and had long withdrawn from this grassy dell.  Tired as we were, we could not wait.  It was only to ascend the little steep, stony slope--300 yards--and we should see!  Our party were straggling up the hill: two or three had reached the edge.  I looked up.  The duchess threw up her arms and screamed.  We were not fifteen paces behind, but we saw nothing.  We took the few steps, and the whole magnificence broke upon us.  No one could be prepared for it.  The scene is one to strike dumb with awe, or to unstring the nerves; one might stand in silent astonishment, another would burst into tears.</P>
168.sgm:<P>There are some experiences that cannot be repeated--one's first view of Rome, one's first view of Jerusalem.  But these emotions are produced by association, by the sudden standing face to face with the scenes most wrought into our whole life and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<illus entity="a168-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GRAND CAN&tilde;ON OF THE COLORADO--VIEW FROM THE HANSE TRAIL.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>We had expected a can&tilde;on--two lines of perpendicular walls 6000 feet high, with the ribbon of a river at the bottom; but the reader may dismiss all his notions of a can&tilde;on, indeed of any sort of mountain or gorge scenery with which he is familiar.  We had come into a new world.  What we saw was not a can&tilde;on, or a chasm, or a gorge, but a vast area which is a break in the plateau.  From where we stood it was twelve miles across to the opposite walls--a level line of mesa on the Utah side.  We looked up and down for twenty to thirty miles.  This great space is filled with gigantic architectural constructions, with amphitheatres, gorges, precipices, walls of masonry, fortresses terraced up to the level of the eye, temples mountain size, all brilliant with horizontal lines of color--streaks of solid hues a few feet in width, streaks a thousand feet in width--yellows, mingled white and gray, orange, dull red, brown, blue, carmine, green, all blending in the sunlight into one transcendent suffusion of splendor.  Afar off we saw the river in two places, a mere thread, as motionless and smooth as a strip of mirror, only we knew it was a turbid, boiling torrent, 6000 feet below us.  Directly opposite the overhanging ledge on which we stood was a mountain, the sloping base of which was ashy gray and bluish; it rose in a series of terraces to a thousand-feet wall of dark red <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Wandering a little away from the group and out of sight, and turning suddenly to the scene from another point of view, I experienced for a moment an indescribable terror of nature, a confusion of mind, a fear to be alone in such a presence.  With all this grotesqueness and majesty of form and radiance of color, creation seemed in a whirl.  With our education in scenery of a totally different kind, I suppose it would need long acquaintance with this to familiarize one with it to the extent of perfect mental comprehension.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The vast abyss has an atmosphere of its own, one always changing and producing new effects, an atmosphere and shadows and tones of its own--golden, rosy, gray, brilliant, and sombre, and playing a thousand fantastic tricks to the vision.  The rich and wonderful color effects, says Captain Dutton, "are due to the inherent colors of the rocks, modified by the atmosphere.  Like any other great series of strata in the plateau province, the carboniferous has its own range of colors, which might serve to distinguish it, even if we had no other criterion.  The summit strata are pale gray, with a faint yellowish cast.  Beneath them the cross-bedded sandstone appears, showing a mottled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>I was continually likening this to a vast city rather than a landscape, but it was a city of no man's creation nor of any man's conception.  In the visions which inspired or crazy painters have had of the New Jerusalem, of Babylon the Great, of a heaven in the atmosphere, with endless perspective of towers and steeps that hang in the twilight sky, the imagination has tried to reach this reality.  But here are effects beyond the artist, forms the architect has not hinted at; and yet everything reminds us of man's work.  And the explorers have tried by the use of Oriental nomenclature to bring it within our comprehension, the East being the land of the imagination.  There is the Hindoo Amphitheatre, the Bright Angel Amphitheatre, the Ottoman Amphitheatre, Shiva's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>It was long before I could comprehend the vastness of the view, see the enormous chasms and rents and seams, and the many architectural ranges separated by great gulfs, between me and the wall of the mesa twelve miles distant.  Away to the north-east was the blue Navajo Mountain, the lone peak in the horizon; but on the southern side of it lay a desert level, which in the afternoon light took on the exact <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Some one said that all that was needed to perfect this scene was a Niagara Falls.  I thought what figure a fall 150 feet high and 3000 long would make in this arena.  It would need a spy-glass to discover it.  An adequate Niagara here should be at least three miles in breadth, and fall 2000 feet over one of these walls.  And the Yosemite--ah! the lovely Yosemite!  Dumped down into this wilderness of gorges and mountains, it would take a guide who knew of its existence a long time to find it.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The process of creation is here laid bare through the geologic periods.  The strata of rock, deposited or upheaved, preserve their horizontal and parallel courses.  If we imagine a river flowing on a plain, it would wear for itself a deeper and deeper channel.  The walls of this channel would recede irregularly by weathering and by the coming in of other streams.  The channel would go on deepening, and the outer walls would again recede.  If the rocks were of different material and degrees of hardness, the forms would be carved in the fantastic and architectural manner we find them here.  The Colorado flows through the tortuous inner chasm, and where we see it, it is 6000 feet below the surface where we stand, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>I have space only to refer to the geologic history in Captain Dutton's report of 1882, of which there should be a popular edition.  The waters of the Atlantic once overflowed this region, and were separated from the Pacific, if at all, only by a ridge.  The story is of long eras of deposits, of removal, of upheaval, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Without knowing this story the impression that one has in looking on this scene is that of immense antiquity, hardly anywhere else on earth so overwhelming as here.  It has been here in all its lonely grandeur and transcendent beauty, exactly as it is, for what to us is an eternity, unknown, unseen by human eye.  To the recent Indian, who roved along its brink or descended to its recesses, it was not strange, because he had known no other than the plateau scenery.  It is only within a quarter of a century that the Grand Can&tilde;on has been known to the civilized world.  It is scarcely known now.  It is a world largely unexplored.  Those who best know it are most sensitive to its awe and splendor.  It is never twice the same, for, as I said, it has an atmosphere of its own.  I was told by Hance that he once saw a thunder-storm in it.  He described the chaos of clouds in the pit, the roar of the tempest, the reverberations of thunder, the inconceivable splendor of the rainbows mingled with the colors of the towers and terraces.  It was as if the world were breaking up.  He fled away to his hut in terror.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The day is near when this scenery must be made accessible.  A railway can easily be built from Flagstaff.  The projected road from Utah, crossing the Colorado at Lee's Ferry, would come within twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A CLIMATE FOR INVALIDS.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>THE following notes on the climate of Southern California, written by Dr. H. A. Johnson, of Chicago, at the solicitation of the writer of this volume and for his information, I print with his permission, because the testimony of a physician who has made a special study of climatology in Europe and America, and is a recognized authority, belongs of right to the public:<LB><HSEP>The choice of a climate for invalids or semi-invalids involves the consideration of: First, the invalid, his physical condition (that is, disease), his peculiarities (mental and emotional), his social habits, and his natural and artificial needs.  Second, the elements of climate, such as temperature, moisture, direction and force of winds, the averages of the elements, the extremes of variation, and the rapidity of change.<LB><HSEP>The climates of the western and south-western portions of the United States are well suited to a variety of morbid conditions, especially those pertaining to the pulmonary organs and the nervous system.  Very few localities, however, are equally well adapted to diseases of innervation of circulation and respiration.  For the first and second, as a rule, high altitudes are not advisable; for the third, altitudes of from two thousand to six thousand feet are not only admissible but by many thought to be desirable.  It seems, however, probable that it is to the dryness of the air and the general antagonisms to vegetable growths, rather than to altitude alone, that the benefits derived in these regions by persons suffering from consumption and kindred diseases should be credited.<LB><HSEP>Proximity to large bodies of water, river valleys, and damp plateaus are undesirable as places of residence for invalids with lung troubles.  There are exceptions to this rule.  Localities near the sea with a climate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:subject to slight variations in temperature, a dry atmosphere, little rainfall, much sunshine, not so cold in winter as to prevent much out-door life and not so hot in summer as to make out-door exercise exhausting, are well adapted not only to troubles of the nervous and circulatory systems, but also to those of the respiratory organs.<LB><HSEP>Such a climate is found in the extreme southern portions of California.  At San Diego the rainfall is much less, the air is drier, and the number of sunshiny days very much larger than on our Atlantic seaboard, or in Central and Northern California.  The winters are not cold; flowers bloom in the open air all the year round; the summers are not hot.  The mountains and sea combine to give to this region a climate with few sudden changes, and with a comfortable range of all essential elements.<LB><HSEP>A residence during a part of the winter of 1889-90 at Coronado Beach, and a somewhat careful study of the comparative climatology of the south-western portions of the United States, leads me to think that we have few localities where the comforts of life can be secured, and which at the same time are so well adapted to the needs of a variety of invalids, as San Diego and its surroundings.  In saying this I do not wish to be understood as preferring it to all others for some one condition or disease, but only that for weak hearts, disabled lungs, and worn-out nerves it seems to me to be unsurpassed.<LB>CHICAGO, <HI REND="italics">July</HI>
168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE COMING OF WINTER IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>From Mr. Theodore S. Van Dyke's altogether admirable book on <HI REND="italics">Southern California</HI>
168.sgm: I have permission to quote the following exquisite description of the floral procession from December to March, when the Land of the Sun is awakened by the first winter rain:<LB><HSEP>Sometimes this season commences with a fair rain in November, after a light shower or two in October, but some of the very best seasons begin about the time that all begin to lose hope.  November adds its full tribute to the stream of sunshine that for months has poured along the land; and, perhaps, December closes the long file of cloudless days with banners of blue and gold.  The plains and slopes lie bare and brown; the low hills that break away from them are yellow with dead foxtail or wild oats, gray with mustard-stalks, or ashy green with chemisal or sage.  Even the chaparral, that robes the higher hills in living green, has a tired air, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Upon this--merely the warp of the carpet about to cover the land--the sun fast weaves a woof of splendor.  Along the southern slopes of the lower hills soon beams the orange light of the poppy, which swiftly kindles the adjacent slopes, then flames along the meadow, and blazes upon the northern hill-sides.  Spires of green, mounting on every side, soon open upon the top into lilies of deep lavender, and the scarlet bracts of the painted-cup glow side by side with the crimson of the cardinal-flower.  And soon comes the iris, with its broad golden eye fringed with rays of lavender blue; and five varieties of phaceha overwhelm some places with waves of purple, blue, indigo, and whitish pink.  The evening primrose covers the lower slopes with long sheets of brightest yellow, and from the hills above the rock-rose adds its golden bloom to that of the sorrel and the wild alfalfa, until the hills almost outshine the bright light from the slopes and plains.  And through all this nods a tulip of most delicate lavender; vetches, lupins, and all the members of the wild-pea family are pushing and winding their way everywhere in every shade of crimson, purple, and white; along the ground crowfoot weaves a mantle of white, through which, amid a thousand comrades, the orthocarpus rears its tufted head of pink.  Among all these are mixed a thousand other flowers, plenty enough as plenty would be accounted in other countries, but here mere pin-points on a great map of colors.</P>
168.sgm:<P>As the stranger gazes upon this carpet that now covers hill and dale, undulates over the table-lands, and robes even the mountain with a brilliancy and breadth of color that strikes the eye from miles away, he exhausts his vocabulary of superlatives, and goes away imagining he has seen it all.  Yet he has seen only the background of an embroidery more varied, more curious and splendid, than the carpet upon which it is wrought.  Asters bright with centre of gold and lavender rays soon shine high above the iris, and a new and larger tulip of deepest yellow nods where its lavender cousin is drooping its lately proud head.  New bell-flowers of white and blue and indigo rise above the first, which served merely as ushers to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, the chaparral, which during the long dry season has robed the hills in sombre green, begins to brighten with new life; new leaves adorn the ragged red arms of the manzanita, and among them blow thousands of little urn-shaped flowers of rose-color and white.  The bright green of one lilac is almost lost in a luxuriance of sky-blue blossoms, and the white lilac looks at a distance as if drifted over with snow.  The cercocarpus almost rivals the lilac in its display of white and blue, and the dark, forbidding adenostoma now showers forth dense panicles of little white flowers.  Here, too, a new mimulus pours floods of yellow light, and high above them all the yucca rears its great plume of purple and white.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The marches on for weeks the floral procession, new turns bringing new banners into view, or casting on old ones a brighter light, but ever showing a riotous profusion of splendor until member after member drops gradually out of the ranks, and only a band of stragglers is left marching away into the summer.  But myriads of ferns, twenty-one varieties of which are quite common, and of a fineness and delicacy rarely seen elsewhere, still stand green in the shade of the rocks and trees along the hills, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>Delicacy and brilliancy characterize nearly all the California flowers, and nearly all are so strange, so different from the other members of their families, that they would be an ornament to any greenhouse.  The alfileria, for instance, is the richest and strongest fodder in the world.  It is the main-stay of the stock-grower, and when raked up after drying makes excellent hay; yet it is a geranium, delicate and pretty, when not too rank.</P>
168.sgm:<P>But suddenly the full blaze of color is gone, and the summer is at hand.  Brown tints begin to creep over the plains; the wild oats no longer ripple in silvery waves beneath the sun and wind; and the foxtail, that shone so brightly green along the hill-side, takes on a golden hue.  The light lavender tint of the chorizanthe now spreads along the hills where the poppy so lately flamed, and over the dead morning-glory the dodder weaves its orange floss.  A vast army of crucifer&aelig; and composit&aelig; soon overruns the land with bright yellow, and numerous varieties of mint tinge it with blue or purple; but the greater portion of the annual vegetation is dead or dying.  The distant peaks of granite now begin to glow at evening with a soft purple hue; the light poured into the deep ravines towards sundown floods them with a crimson mist; on the shady hill-sides the chaparral looks bluer, and on the sunny hill-sides is a brighter green than before.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>COMPARATIVE TEMPERATURE AROUND THE WORLD.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>The following table, published by the Pasadena Board of Trade, shows the comparative temperature of well-known places in various parts of the world, arranged according to the difference between their average winter and average summer:<illus entity="a168-0051" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CALIFORNIA AND ITALY.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce, in its pamphlet describing that city and county, gives a letter from the Signal Service Observer at Sacramento, comparing the temperature of places in California and Italy.  He writes:</P>
168.sgm:<P>To prove to your many and intelligent readers the equability and uniformity of the climate of Santa Barbara, San Diego, and Los Angeles, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>The table on pages 210 and 211, "Extremes of Heat and Cold," is published by the San Diego Land and Farm Company, whose pamphlet says:</P>
168.sgm:<P>The United States records at San Diego Signal Station show that in ten years there were but 120 days on which the mercury passed 80&deg;.  Of these 120 there were but 41 on which it passed 85&deg;, but 22 when it passed 90&deg;, but four over 95&deg;, and only one over 100&deg;; to wit, 101&deg;, the highest ever recorded here.  During all this time there was not a day on which the mercury did not fall to at least 70&deg; during the night, and there were but five days on which it did not fall even lower.  During the same ten years there were but six days on which the mercury fell below 35&deg;.  This low temperature comes only in extremely dry weather in winter, and lasts but a few minutes, happening just before sunrise.  On two of these six days it fell to 32&deg; at daylight, the lowest point ever registered here.  The lowest mid-day temperature is 52&deg;, occurring only four times in these ten years.  From 65&deg; to 70&deg; is the average temperature of noonday throughout the greater part of the year.</P>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FIVE YEARS IN SANTA BARBARA.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>The following table, from the self-registering thermometer in the observatory of Mr. Hugh D. Vail, shows the mean temperature of each month in the years 1885 to 1889 at Santa Barbara, and also the mean temperature of the warmest and coldest days in each month:</P>
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168.sgm:<P>Observations made at San Diego City, compiled from Report of the Chief Signal Officer of the U.S. Army.</P>
168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>EXTREMES OF HEAT AND COLD.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>The following table, taken from the Report of the Chief Signal Officer, shows the highest and lowest temperatures recorded since the opening of stations of the Signal Service at the points named, for the number of years indicated.  An asterisk (*) denotes below zero:</P>
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168.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>STATEMENTS OF SMALL CROPS.</HEAD>
168.sgm:<P>The following statements of crops on small pieces of ground, mostly in Los Angeles County, in 1890, were furnished to the Chamber of Commerce in Los Angeles, and are entirely trustworthy.  Nearly all of them bear date August 1st.  This a fair sample from all Southern California:</P>
168.sgm:<P>PEACHES.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Ernest Dewey, Pomona--Golden Cling Peaches, 10 acres, 7 years old, produced 47 tons green; sold dried for $4800; cost of production, $243.70; net profit, $4556.30.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.  Amount of rain, 28 inches, winter of 1889-90.</P>
168.sgm:<P>H. H. Rose, Santa Anita Township (3/4 of a mile from Lamanda Park)--2 6/7 acres; produced 47,543 pounds; sold for $863.46; cost of production, $104; net profit, $759.46.  Soil, light sandy loam; not irrigated.  Produced in 1889 12,000 pounds, which sold at $1.70 per 100 pounds.</P>
168.sgm:<P>E. R. Thompson, Azusa (2 miles south of depot)--2 1/6 acres, 233 trees, produced 57,655 pounds; sold for $864.82 1/2; cost of production, $140; net profit, $724.82 1/2.  Soil, sandy loam; irrigated three times in summer, 1 inch to 7 acres.  Trees 7 years old, not more than two-thirds grown.</P>
168.sgm:<P>P. O'Connor, Downey--20 trees produced 4000 pounds; sold for $60; cost of production $5; net profit, $55.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.  Crop sold on the ground.</P>
168.sgm:<P>H. Hood, Downey City (1/4 of a mile from depot)--1/4 of an acre produced <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>F. D. Smith (between Azusa and Glendora, 1 1/4 miles from depot)--1 acre produced 14,361 pounds; sold for $252.51; cost of production, $20; net profit, $232.51.  Dark sandy loam; irrigated once.  Trees 5 and 6 years old.</P>
168.sgm:<P>P. O. Johnson, Ranchito--17 trees, 10 years old, produced 4 3/4 tons; sold 4 1/4 tons for $120; cost of production, $10; net profit, $110; very little irrigation.  Sales were 1/2c. per pound under market rate.</P>
168.sgm:<P>PRUNES.</P>
168.sgm:<P>E. P. Naylor (3 miles from Pomona)--15 acres produced 149 tons; sold for $7450; cost of production, $527; net profit, $6923.  Soil, loam, with some sand; irrigated, 1 inch per 10 acres.</P>
168.sgm:<P>W. H. Baker, Downey (1/2 of a mile from depot)--1 1/2 acres produced 12,529 pounds; sold for $551.90; cost of production, $50; net profit, $501.90.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Howe Bros. (2 miles from Lordsburg)--800 trees, which had received no care for 2 years, produced 28 tons; sold for $1400; cost of production, $200; net profit, $1200.  Soil, gravelly loam, red; partially irrigated.  Messrs. Howe state that they came into possession of this place in March, 1890.  The weeds were as high as the trees and the ground was very hard.  Only about 500 of the trees had a fair crop on them.</P>
168.sgm:<P>W. A. Spalding, Azusa--1/3 of an acre produced 10,404 pounds; sold for $156.06; cost of production, $10; net profit, $146.06.  Soil, sandy loam.</P>
168.sgm:<P>E. A. Hubbard, Pomona (1 1/2 miles from depot)--4 1/2 acres produced 24 tons; sold green for $1080; cost of production, $280; net profit, $800.  Soil, dark sandy loam; irrigated.  This entire ranch of 9 acres was bought in 1884 for $1575.</P>
168.sgm:<P>F. M. Smith (1 1/4 miles east of Azusa)--3/5 of an acre produced 17,174 pounds; sold for $315.84; cost of production, $25; net profit, $290.  Soil, deep, dark sandy loam; irrigated once in the spring.  Trees 5 years old.</P>
168.sgm:<P>George Rhorer (1/2 of a mile east of North Pomona)--13 acres produced 88 tons; sold for $4400 on the trees; cost of production, $260; net profit, $4140.  Soil, gravelly loam; irrigated, 1 inch to 8 acres.  Trees planted 5 years ago last spring.</P>
168.sgm:<P>J. S. Flory (between the Big and Little Tejunga rivers)--1 1/3 acres or 135 trees 20 feet apart each way; 100 of the trees 4 years old, the balance of the trees 5 years old; produced 5230 pounds dried; sold for $523; cost of production, $18; net profit, $505.  Soil, light loam, with some sand; not irrigated.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>W. Caruthers (2 miles north of Downey)--3/4 of an acre produced 5 tons; sold for $222; cost of production, $7.50; net profit, $215.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.  Trees 4 years old.<LB>James Loney, Pomona--2 acres; product sold for $1150; cost of production, $50; net profit, $1100.  Soil, sandy loam.</P>
168.sgm:<P>I. W. Lord, Eswena--5 acres produced 40 tons; sold for $2000; cost of production, $300; net profit, $1700.  Soil, sandy loam.</P>
168.sgm:<P>M. B. Moulton, Pomona--3 acres; sold for $1873; cost of production, $215; net profit, $1658.  Soil, deep sandy loam.  Trees 9 years old.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Ernest Dewey, Pomona--6 acres produced 38 tons green; dried, at 10 cents a pound, $3147; cost of production, $403; profit, $2734.  Soil, sandy loam; irrigated one inch to 10 acres.  Sixty per cent. increase over former year.</P>
168.sgm:<P>C. S. Ambrose, Pomona--12 acres produced 77 tons; $50 per ton gross, $3850; labor of one hand one year, $150; profit, $3700.  Soil, gravelly; very little irrigation.  Prunes sold on trees.</P>
168.sgm:<P>ORANGES.<LB>Joachim F. Jarchow, San Gabriel--2 1/2 acres; 10-year trees; product sold for $1650; cost of production $100, including cultivation of 7 1/2 acres, not bearing; net profit, $1550.</P>
168.sgm:<P>F. D. Smith, Azusa--6 1/2 acres produced 600 boxes; sold for $1200; cost of production, $130; net profit, $1070.  Soil, dark sandy loam; irrigated three times.  Trees 4 years old.</P>
168.sgm:<P>George Lightfoot, South Pasadena--5 1/2 acres produced 700 boxes; sold for $1100; cost of production, $50; net profit, $1050.  Soil, rich, sandy loam; irrigated once a year.</P>
168.sgm:<P>H. Hood, Downey--1/2 of an acre produced 275 boxes; sold for $275; cost of production, $25; net profit, $250.  Soil, damp, sandy; not irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>W. G. Earle, Azusa--1 acre produced 210 boxes; sold for $262; cost of production, $15; net profit, $247.  Soil, sandy loam; irrigated four times.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Nathaniel Hayden, Vernon--4 acres; 986 boxes at $1.20 per box; sales, $1182; cost of production, $50; net profit, $1132.  Loam; irrigated.  Other products on the 4 acres.</P>
168.sgm:<P>H. O. Fosdick, Santa Ana--1 acre; 6 years old; 350 boxes; sales, $700; cost of production and packing, $50; net profit, $650.  Loam; irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>J. H. Isbell, Rivera--1 acre, 82 trees; 16 years old; sales, $600; cost of production, $25; profit, $575.  Irrigated.  $1.10 per box for early delivery, $1.65 for later.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>GRAPES.</P>
168.sgm:<P>William Bernhard, Monte Vista--10 acres produced 25 tons; sold for $750; cost of production, $70; net profit, $680.  Soil, heavy loam; not irrigated.  Vines 5 years old.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Dillon, Kennealy &amp; McClure, Burbank (1 mile from Roscoe Station)--200 acres produced 90,000 gallons of wine; cost of production, $5000; net profit, about $30,000.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated; vineyard in very healthy condition.</P>
168.sgm:<P>P. O'Connor (2 1/2 miles south of Downey)--12 acres produced 100 tons; sold for $1500; cost of production, $360; net profit, $1140.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.  Vines planted in 1884, when the land would not sell for $100 per acre.</P>
168.sgm:<P>J. K. Banks (1 3/4 miles from Downey)--40 acres produced 250 tons; sold for $3900; cost of production, $1300; net profit, $2600.  Soil, sandy loam.</P>
168.sgm:<P>BERRIES.<LB>W. Y. Earle (2 1/2 miles from Azusa)--Strawberries, 2 1/2 acres produced 15,000 boxes; sold for $750; cost of production, $225; net profit, $525.  Soil, sandy loam; irrigated.  Shipped 3000 boxes to Ogden, Utah, and 6000 boxes to Albuquerque and El Paso.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Benjamin Norris, Pomona--Blackberries, 1/4 of an acre produced 2500 pounds; sold for $100; cost of production, $5; net profit, $95.  Soil, light sandy; irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>S. H. Eye, Covina--Raspberries, 5/9 of an acre produced 1800 pounds; sold for $195; cost of production, $85; net profit, $110.  Soil, sandy loam; irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>J. O. Houser, Covina--Blackberries, 1/4 of an acre produced 648 pounds; sold for $71.28; cost of production, $18; net profit, $53.28.  Soil, sandy loam; irrigated.  First year's crop.</P>
168.sgm:<P>APRICOTS.<LB>T. D. Leslie (1 mile from Pomona)--1 acre produced 10 tons; sold for $250; cost of production, $60; net profit, $190.  Soil, loose, gravelly; irrigated; 1 inch to 10 acres.  First crop.</P>
168.sgm:<P>George Lightfoot, South Pasadena--2 acres produced 11 tons; sold for $260; cost of production, $20; net profit, $240.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>T. D. Smith, Azusa--1 acre produced 13,555 pounds; sold for $169.44; cost of production, $25; net profit, $144.44.  Soil, sandy loam; irrigated once.  Trees 5 years old.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>W. Y. Earle (2 1/2 miles from Azusa)--6 acres produced 6 tons; sold for $350; cost of production, $25; net profit, $325.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.  Trees 3 years old.</P>
168.sgm:<P>W. A. Spalding, Azusa--335 trees produced 15,478 pounds; sold for $647.43; cost of production, $50; net profit, $597.43.  Soil, sandy loam.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Mrs. Winkler, Pomona--3/4 of an acre, 90 trees; product sold for $381; cost of production, $28.40; net profit, $352.60.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.  Only help, small boys and girls.</P>
168.sgm:<P>MISCELLANEOUS FRUITS.<LB>E. A. Bonine, Lamanda Park--Apricots, nectarines, prunes, peaches, and lemons, 30 acres produced 160 tons; sold for $8000; cost of production, $1500; net profit, $6500.  No irrigation.</P>
168.sgm:<P>J. P. Fleming (1 1/2 miles from Rivera)--Walnuts, 40 acres produced 12 1/2 tons; sold for $2120; cost of production, $120; net profit, $2000.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>George Lightfoot, South Pasadena--Lemons, 2 acres produced 500 boxes; sold for $720; cost of production, $20; net profit, $700.  Soil, rich sandy loam; not irrigated.  Trees 10 years old.</P>
168.sgm:<P>W. A. Spalding, Azusa--Nectarines, 96 trees produced 19,378 pounds; sold for $242.22; cost of production, $35; net profit, $207.22.  Soil, sandy loam.</P>
168.sgm:<P>F. D. Smith, Azusa--Nectarines, 1 2/5 acres produced 36,350 pounds; sold for $363.50; cost of production, $35; net profit, $318.50.  Soil, deep dark sandy loam; irrigated once in spring.  Trees 5 and 6 years old.</P>
168.sgm:<P>C. D. Ambrose (4 miles north of Pomona)--Pears, 3 acres produced 33,422 pounds; sold green for $1092.66; cost of production, $57; net profit, $1035.66.  Soil, foot-hill loam; partly irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>N. Hayden--Statement of amount of fruit taken from 4 acres for one season at Vernon District: 985 boxes oranges, 15 boxes lemons, 8000 pounds apricots, 2200 pounds peaches, 200 pounds loquats, 2500 pounds nectarines, 4000 pounds apples, 1000 pounds plums, 1000 pounds prunes, 1000 pounds figs, 150 pounds walnuts, 500 pounds pears.  Proceeds, $1650.  A family of five were supplied with all the fruit they wanted besides the above.</P>
168.sgm:<P>POTATOES.<LB>O. Bullis, Compton--28 3/4 acres produced 3000 sacks; sold for $3000; cost of production, $500; net profit, $2500.  Soil, peat; not irrigated.  This land has been in potatoes 3 years, and will be sown to cabbages, thus producing two crops this year.</P>
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168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<P>P. F. Cogswell, El Monte--25 acres produced 150 tons; sold for $3400; cost of production, $450; net profit, $2950.  Soil, sediment; not irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>M. Metcalf, El Monte--8 acres produced 64 tons; sold for $900; cost of production, $50; net profit, $850.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Jacob Vernon (1 1/2 miles from Covina)--3 acres produced 400 sacks; sold for $405.88; cost of production, $5; net profit, $400.88.  Soil, sandy loam; irrigated one acre.  Two-thirds of crop was volunteer.</P>
168.sgm:<P>H. Hood, Downey--Sweet potatoes, 1 acre produced 300 sacks; sold for $300; cost of production, $30; net profit, $270.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.</P>
168.sgm:<P>C. C. Stub, Savannah (1 mile from depot)--10 acres produced 1000 sacks; sold for $2000; cost of production, $100; net profit, $1900.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.  A grain crop was raised on the same land this year.</P>
168.sgm:<P>ONIONS.<LB>F. A. Atwater and C. P. Eldridge, Clearwater--1 acre produced 211 sacks; sold for $211; cost of production, $100; net profit, $111.  Soil, sandy loam; no irrigation.  At present prices the onions would have brought $633.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Charles Lauber, Downey--1 acre produced 113 sacks; sold for $642; cost of production, $50; net profit, $592.  No attention was paid to the cultivation of this crop.  Soil, sandy loam; not irrigated.  At present prices the same onions would have brought $803.</P>
168.sgm:<P>MISCELLANEOUS VEGETABLES.<LB>Eugene Lassene, University--Pumpkins, 5 acres produced 150 loads; sold for $4 per load; cost of production, $3 per acre; net profit, $585.  Soil, sandy loam.  A crop of barley was raised from the same land this year.</P>
168.sgm:<P>P. K. Wood, Clearwater--Pea-nuts, 3 acres produced 5000 pounds; sold for $250; cost of production, $40; net profit, $210.  Soil, light sandy; not irrigated.  Planted too deep, and got about one-third crop.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Oliver E. Roberts (Terrace Farm, Cahuenga Valley)--3 acres tomatoes; sold product for $461.75.  Soil, foot-hill; not irrigated; second crop, watermelons.  One-half acre green peppers; sold product for $54.30.  1 1/2 acres of green peas; sold product for $220.  17 fig-trees; first crop sold for $40.  Total product of 5 1/4 acres, $776.05.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Jacob Miller, Cahuenga--Green peas, 10 acres; 43,615 pounds; sales, $3052; cost of production and marketing, $500; profit, $2552.  Soil, foot-hill; not irrigated.  Second crop, melons.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>W. W. Bliss, Duarte--Honey, 215 stands; 15,000 pounds; sales, $785.  Mountain district.  Bees worth $1 to $3 per stand.</P>
168.sgm:<P>James Stewart, Downey--Figs, 3 acres; 20 tons, at $50, $1000.  Not irrigated; 26 inches rain; 1 acre of trees 16 years old, 2 acres 5 years.  Figs sold on trees.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The mineral wealth of Southern California is not yet appreciated.  Among the rare minerals which promise much is a very large deposit of tin in the Temescal Can&tilde;on, below South Riverside.  It is in the hands of an English company.  It is estimated that there are 23 square miles rich in tin ore, and it is said that the average yield of tin is 20 1/4 per cent.</P>
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168.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX.</HEAD>
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168.sgm:<P>Fruits compared to European, 18.<LB>--cultivation and speculation discussed, 20, 93, 107, 140.<LB>--great region for, 97.<LB>--grouped, 18, 19, 92, 94-96, 101, 115, 127, 211-217.<LB>--lands adapted to, 37, 46, 96.<LB>--orchards, 67, 165.<LB>--rapid growth of, 115.<LB>--Riverside method for, 104.<LB>--winter, 48.<LB>Fumigation, Cost of, 124, 129.<LB>Funchal, Madeira, Temperature of, 207.<LB>GARDENS, 46, 67, 147, 165.<LB>Geraniums, 49.<LB>Glendora, 212.<LB>Golden Gate, 42.<LB>Gooseberry, 205.<LB>Government land, 93.<LB>Grain, 12, 14, 15, 19, 23, 25, 140.<LB>Grand Can&tilde;on, 149, 178, 181.<LB>-- --area of district of, 177.<LB>-- --description of, 181, 182, 190-200.<LB>-- --journey to the, 182-190.<LB>Grapes, 15, 18, 19, 92, 93, 98, 101.<LB>--diseases of, 128.<LB>--Old Mission, 128.<LB>--prices and profits of, 96.<LB>--raisin. (See Raisins.)<LB>Grape-vines, 79, 91, 123.<LB>-- --on small farms, 107.<LB>-- --prices and profits of, 96.<LB>-- --Santa Anita, 127.<LB>Grayback (mountain), 34, 46.<LB>Great Wash fault, 178, 182.<LB><HI REND="italics">Grevillea robusta</HI>
168.sgm:, 123.<LB>Guava, 19, 134.<LB>Gums, 138.<LB>HANCE (guide), 198, 199.<LB>Harvard Observatory, 130.<LB>Hawaii Islands, 5.<LB>Hayden, Nathaniel, 213, 215.<LB>Helianthus, 206.<LB>Heliotrope, 10, 41, 49.<LB>Hesperia, 96.<LB>Hindoo Amphitheatre, 195.<LB>Holbrook, 183.<LB>Honey--prices and profits of, 217.<LB>Honeysuckle, 205.<LB>Hood, H., 211, 213, 216.<LB>Horses, 55, 70.<LB>Hotel del Coronado, 29, 87.<LB>--del Monte Park, 161.<LB>--Raymond, 79, 130, 133.<LB>Hot Springs (Las Vegas), 163, 164.<LB>Houser, J. O., 214.<LB>Houses, Suggestions on, 68.<LB>Howe Bros., 212.<LB>Hubbard, E. A., 212.<LB>Hufeland, on climate and health, 52.<LB>Humidity, 38, 43.<LB>Huntington, Dr., 50.<LB>Hurricane Ledge or Fault, 182.<LB><HI REND="italics">Icerya purchasi</HI>
168.sgm:, 129.<LB>Indiana settlement, 94.<LB>Indians, 55, 187, 188.<LB>--affected by climate, 55.<LB>--converted by missionaries, 24.<LB>--longevity of, 59.<LB>--Mojave, 2, 169.<LB>--Navajos, 170, 183.<LB>--Oualapai, 188.<LB>--Pueblo, 165.<LB>-- --at Acamo, 165.<LB>-- --at Isleta, 165.<LB>-- --at Laguna, 165-173.<LB>Ingo County, 34.<LB>Inspiration Point, 150, 154.<LB>Iris, 204.<LB>Irrigation, 97, 117, 147, 165.<LB>--at Pasadena, 130.<LB>--at Pomona, 15, 94, 124, 211, 215.<LB>--at Redlands, 102, 104, 118.<LB>--at San Diego, 144.<LB>--at Santa Ana, 134.<LB>--by companies, 94.<LB>--by natural means, 11, 14, 37.<LB>--cost of, 98.<LB>--for apricots, berries, grapes, onions, oranges, peaches, potatoes, prunes, vegetables, 211-217.<LB>--for orchards, 120.<LB>--for wheat, 100.<LB>--in relation to fruits and crops, 19, 99, 100, 101.<LB>--necessity of, 15, 19, 88.<LB>--results of, discussed, 12, 14, 15.<LB>--Riverside method of, 102, 104.<LB>--three methods of, 102.<LB>--Van Dyke on, 102, 103.<LB>Isbell, J. H., 213.<LB>Ischia, 30.<LB>Isleta, 165.<LB>Isthmus route, 142.<LB>Italy, 1, 2, 4, 18, 68, 69, 75, 87.  (See Our Italy.)<LB>Ives, Lieutenant, 181.<LB>JACKSONVILLE, Florida, Temperature of, 207, 210, 211.<LB>Japanese persimmon, 134.<LB>Japan trade, 142.<LB>Jarchom, Joachim F., 213.<LB>Johnson, Dr. H. A., on climate, 201.<LB>Johnson, P. O., 212.<LB>Josephites, 117.<LB>Julian (rainfall), 48.<LB>KAIBAB PLATEAU, 178, 181, 182.</P>
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168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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168.sgm:<P>San Gabriel, description of, 124-128.<LB>-- --mission, 26.<LB>-- --Mountain, 4, 5.<LB>-- --River, 11.<LB>-- --Valley, 72, 94.<LB>San Jacinto Range, 4, 17, 33, 46, 118.<LB>-- --rain at, 48.<LB>San Joaquin, 7, 37, 114.<LB>San Juan, 177.<LB>-- --Capristano, 79.<LB>-- --San Jose&acute;e, 124.<LB>San Luis Obispo, 16.<LB>-- --River, 11.<LB>San Mateo Can&tilde;on, 118.<LB>San Miguel, 33.<LB>San Nicolas, 2.<LB>San Pedro, 3, 135.<LB>San Remo, Temperature of, 208.<LB>Santa Ana, 2, 13, 72, 94, 99, 118.<LB>-- --description of, 124.<LB>-- --Mountain, 134.<LB>-- --River, 11, 79, 134.<LB>-- --Township, 15, 127, 211.<LB>-- --Valley, 2, 72, 213.<LB>Santa Barbara, 2, 3, 9, 37, 67.<LB>-- --at Montecito, 123.<LB>-- --Channel, 2, 3.<LB>-- --County, 16.<LB>-- --description of, 72, 137, 138.<LB>-- --fruits, 37, 129.<LB>-- --Island, 2, 3.<LB>-- --Mountain, 17.<LB>-- --olives, 37, 125.<LB>-- --temperature of, 29, 44, 207.<LB>Santa Catalina, 2, 134.<LB>Santa Clara, 43, 138.<LB>-- --River, 11.<LB>Santa Clemente, 2.<LB>Santa Cruz, 2, 47, 157.<LB>-- --Canaries, Temperature of, 207.<LB>Santa Fe&acute; line, 117, 119, 163, 165, 182.<LB>-- --New Mexico, Temperature of, 207.<LB>Santa Margarita River, 11.<LB>Santa Miguel, 2.<LB>Santa Monica, 3.<LB>-- --description of, 76.<LB>-- --irrigation at, 134.<LB>Santa Rosa, 2, 140.<LB>Santa Ynes, 4, 72.<LB>Santiago, 46.<LB>--Can&tilde;on, 134.<LB>San Tomas mission, 60.<LB>Savannah, 216.<LB>Sea-lions, 30, 161.<LB>Seasons, 6, 10, 37, 38, 43, 65, 66, 81.<LB>--description of the, 65, 66.<LB>--Van Dyke on the, 202-206.<LB><HI REND="italics">Sequoia semper virens</HI>
168.sgm:, 157.<LB><HI REND="italics">Sequoias gigantea</HI>
168.sgm:, 157, 158.<LB>Serra, Father Junipero, 24.<LB>Serrano, Don Antonio, 61, 62.<LB>Sheavwitz Plateau, 178.<LB>Sheep, 12, 206.<LB>Shiva's Temple, 195.<LB>Shooting-star, 203.<LB>Sicily, 18, 69.<LB>Sierra Madre, 4, 15, 37, 42, 46, 71, 94, 114, 118.<LB>-- --Villa, 130.<LB>Sierra Nevada, 2, 3.<LB>Sierras, 153, 161.<LB>Signal Service Observer, 207.<LB>Silene, 204.<LB>Smith, F. D., 212-215.<LB>--F M., 212.<LB>--T. D., 214.<LB>Smithsonian Institution, 59.<LB>Snap-dragon, 205.<LB>Sorrel, 204.<LB>Sorrento, 132.<LB>Southern California, 2-4, 16.<LB>-- --climate of, 29, 38, 45, 55, 56, 59, 62, 130.<LB>-- --commerce of, 18.<LB>-- --compared to Italy, 46.<LB>-- --counties of, 16.<LB>-- --history of, 24, 25.<LB>-- --"Our Italy," 18, 46.<LB>-- --pride of nations, the, 26.<LB>-- --rainy seasons in. (See Rain.)<LB>-- --rapid growth of fruits in, 115.<LB>-- --recreations of, 69-71.<LB>-- --temperature of, 43, 133. (See Temperature.)<LB>--Italy, 69, 147.<LB>--Pacific Railroad, 149.<LB>--Utah, 177.<LB>South Pasadena, 213, 214.<LB>--Riverside, 217.<LB>Spain, 149.<LB>Spalding, W. A., 212, 215.<LB>Spanish adventurers, 24, 30.<LB>Spruce-pine, 182.<LB>St. Augustine, Florida, Temperature of, 207.<LB>St. Michael, Azores, Temperature of, 207.<LB>St. Paul, Minnesota, Temperature of, 207.<LB>State Commission, 156.<LB>Stewart, James, 217.<LB>Stone, 142.<LB>Strawberries, 10.<LB>--prices and profits of, 214.<LB>Stub, C. C., 216.<LB>Sugar-pine, 150, 157.<LB>Sumach, 205.<LB>Sunset Mountain, 185.<LB>Sweetbrier, 206.<LB>Sweetwater Dam, 144.<LB>Switzerland, 149.<LB>Sycamore, 79, 134.<LB>TABLE MOUNTAIN, 33.<LB>Tangier, 45.<LB>Temperature, 4, 5, 29, 37, 38.</P>
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168.sgm:<P>Temperature compared to European, 45.<LB>--discussed, 43, 45.<LB>--of Coronado Beach, 87.<LB>--of Los Angeles, 44, 207, 210, 211.<LB>--of Monterey, 72.<LB>--of Pasadena, 13, 207.<LB>--of Pomona, 44.<LB>--of San Bernardino, 6, 33, 44, 46, 210, 211.<LB>--of San Diego, 30, 44, 49, 50, 210, 211.<LB>--of Santa Barbara, 29, 44, 207.<LB>--relation of, to health, 201.<LB>--statistics, 44, 45, 72.<LB>--statistics compared, 207, 208, 210, 211.<LB>--Van Dyke on, 50.<LB>Temecula Can&tilde;on, 140.<LB>Temescal Can&tilde;on, 217.<LB>The Rockies, 10.<LB>Thistle, 205.<LB>Thompson, E. R., 211.<LB>Tia Juana River, 11, 30, 145.<LB>Tiger-lily, 206.<LB>Tin, 217.<LB>Tomatoes--prices and profits of, 216.<LB>To&uml;plitz waters, 163.<LB>Toroweap Valley, 182.<LB>Trees, 48, 69, 130, 134, 138, 147, 156, 198.<LB>--description of, 150, 156-161.<LB>--region of Mariposa big, 156.<LB>Tulip, 204.<LB>Tustin City, 134.<LB>UBACH, Father A. D., 59, 60, 62.<LB>Uinkaret Plateau, 178.<LB>Umbrella-tree, 69, 134.<LB>University Heights, 80, 81.<LB>Utah, 177, 178, 199.<LB>VAIL, HUGH D., 209.<LB>Van Dyke, Theodore S., 4, 140, 202.<LB>--on climate, 6, 78.<LB>--on floral procession and seasons, 202-206.<LB>--on growth in population, 145.<LB>--on irrigation, 102, 103.<LB>--on temperature, 50.<LB>Van Dyke, Theodore S., on winds, 8, 203.<LB><HI REND="italics">Vedolia cardinalis</HI>
168.sgm: (Australian lady-bug), 129.<LB>Vegetables, 112, 216.<LB>Ventura, 16, 137.<LB>Vermilion Cliffs, 178.<LB>Vernon, 213, 215.<LB>--Jacob, 216.<LB>Vesuvius, 33.<LB>Vetch, 203.<LB>Vines, 20, 23-25, 67, 79, 91, 107, 123, 128, 144, 147.<LB>Violets, 203.<LB>Visalia, California, Temperature of, 207.<LB>Vishnu's Temple, 196.<LB>Vulcan's Throne, 196.<LB>WAGES, "Boom," 109.<LB>Walnut Creek Can&tilde;on, 183.<LB>Walnuts, 14, 19, 115.<LB>--prices and profits of, 215.<LB>Water, 186.<LB>--how measured, 98.<LB>--price of, 97, 98.<LB>Watermelons--prices and profits of, 216.<LB>Wawona, 150.<LB>Wells, 186.<LB>Wheat, 2, 5, 14, 25, 138.<LB>--affected by irrigation, 100.<LB>White Cliffs, 178.<LB>Wild Oats, 202.<LB>Williams, 182.<LB>Willow, 134.<LB>Winder, Dr. W. A., on longevity, 56.<LB>Winds, 4, 6, 8, 29, 30, 38, 47, 70, 78, 123, 184, 203.<LB>--relation of, to health, 201.<LB>--Van Dyke on, 8, 203.<LB>Wine, 20, 92, 93, 107, 136, 137.<LB>Winkler, Mrs., 215.<LB>Wood, P. K., 216.<LB>YOSEMITE, 150, 153, 154, 161, 197.<LB>--description of, 149-156.<LB>Yucca, 205.<LB>ZUN&tilde;IS, 165.<LB>THE END.</P>
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168.sgm:<DIV><AD><P>BY CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER.Our Italy.<LB>An Exposition of the Climate and Resources of Southern California.  Illustrated.  pp. viii., 226.  Svo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>A Little Journey in the World.<LB>A Novel.  pp. iv., 306.  Post 8vo, Half Leather, Gilt Top and Uncut Edges, $1 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>A powerful picture of modern life in which unscrupulously acquired capital is the chief agent....Mr. Warner has depicted this phase of society with real power, and there are passages in his work which are a nearer approach to Thackeray than we have had from any American author.-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Post</HI>
168.sgm:<P>The vigor and vividness of the tale and its sustained interest are not its only or its chief merits.  It is a study of American life of to-day, possessed with shrewd insight and fidelity.--GEORGE WILLIAM CURTIS.</P>
168.sgm:<P>One of the brightest novels of contemporary American life.-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Journal of Commerce</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Studies in the South and West,<LB>With Comments on Canada.  pp. iv., 484.  Post 8vo, Half Leather, Gilt Top and Uncut Edges, $1 75.</P>
168.sgm:<P>A witty, instructive book, as brilliant in its pictures as it is warm in its kindness; and we feel sure that it is with a patriotic impulse that we say that we shall be glad to learn that the number of its readers bears some proportion to its merits and its power for good.-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Commercial Advertiser</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Sketches made from studies of the country and the people upon the ground....They are the opinions of a man and a scholar without prejudices, and only anxious to state the facts as they were....When told in the pleasant and instructive way of Mr. Warner, the studies are as delightful as they are instructive.-- <HI REND="italics">Chicago Inter-Ocean</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Perhaps the most accurate and graphic account of these portions of the country that has appeared, taken all in all...A book most charming--a book that no American can fail to enjoy, appreciate, and highly prize.-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Traveller</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Their Pilgrimage.<LB>Richly Illustrated by C. S. REINHART.  pp. viii., 364.  Post 8vo, Half Leather, Gilt Top and Uncut Edges, $2 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Mr. Warner's pen-pictures of the characters typical of each resort, of the manner of life followed at each, of the humor and absurdities peculiar to Saratoga, or Newport, or Bar Harbor, as the case may be, are as good-natured as they are clever.  The satire, when there is any, is of the mildest, and the general tone is that of one glad to look on the brightest side of the cheerful, pleasure-seeking world.-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Union</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Mr. Reinhart's spirited and realistic illustrations are very attractive, and contribute to make an unusually handsome book.  We have already commented upon the earlier chapters of the text; and the happy blending of travel and fiction which we looked forward to with confidence did, in fact, distinguish this story among the serials of the year.-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Evening Post</HI>
168.sgm:<P>PUBLISHED BY HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, NEW YORK.  <HI REND="italics">Any of the above works sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of price.</HI>
168.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<AD><P>Nordhoff's California.<LB>Peninsular California.  Some Account of the Climate, Soil, Productions, and Present Condition chiefly of the Northern Half of Lower California.  By CHARLES NORDHOFF.  Maps and Illustrations.  Square 8vo, Cloth, $1 00; Paper, 75 cents.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Mr. Nordhoff has known the region he describes for many years, and is a skilful writer as well as careful observer.-- <HI REND="italics">Hartford Courant</HI>
168.sgm:<P>The author frankly writes as an advocate, but, so far as our knowledge goes, with scrupulous fairness.-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Evening Post</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Mr. Nordhoff supplies copious appendices, giving tables of temperature, rainfall and other meteorological facts of much interest.  His book is interesting, valuable, and timely.-- <HI REND="italics">Epoch</HI>
168.sgm:<P>The reading of this volume has been of special personal pleasure to us, and we doubt not that others will enjoy it too.-- <HI REND="italics">Michigan Christian Advocate</HI>
168.sgm:<P>The book is one that those who read merely for information will find interesting and instructive, while there are doubtless many by whom its economical representations will be accepted in the way that Mr. Nordhoff evidently hopes that they will be.-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Telegraph</HI>
168.sgm:<P>This opportune little volume will do much to enlighten us as to its real character, an enlightenment of a most practical kind.-- <HI REND="italics">Geographical News</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Mr. Charles Nordhoff has added considerably to our knowledge of a country singularly neglected.-- <HI REND="italics">N.Y. Sun</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Mr. Nordhoff's book is as good as a trip to the place.-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia American</HI>
168.sgm:<P>His book is historical, descriptive, and practical, containing information about land-titles and other matters such as settlers and investors will find most useful.-- <HI REND="italics">Cincinnati Times</HI>
168.sgm:<P>There is hardly a question that one contemplating purchase or residence there would wish to ask that is not answered in this book, while to all it furnishes interesting and no doubt authentic information concerning a remarkable region, of which not much has been generally known heretofore.-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Intelligencer</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Mr. Nordhoff has personally explored and studied the region and become an owner of property in it, and he may be regarded as fully qualified to speak of what it is and promises to be.  Much interesting and valuable information is contained in Mr. Nordhoff's work.-- <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn Union</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Those who remember what a good prophet Mr. Nordhoff proved himself to be by his book on "California," issued some sixteen years ago, will read this volume with especial attention.-- <HI REND="italics">Louisville Courier-Journal</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Mr. Nordhoff's book is not a traveller's sketch, but an exhaustive study of the country, its rulers, its products, and its inhabitants.-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Commercial Bulletin</HI>
168.sgm:<P>A valuable contribution to the fund of general information concerning the "Golden State."-- <HI REND="italics">Washington Post</HI>
168.sgm:<P>The information which he gives respecting the resources of the country and its progress in late years is not only interesting, but also of practical value to tourists, as well as for those who contemplate settlement.-- <HI REND="italics">Lutheran Observer</HI>
168.sgm:<P>We commend the work to all persons who would like to have information about this beautiful and fruitful land.-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Observer</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Mr. Nordhoff has for many years been familiar with the country, and the information he furnishes concerning its climate and the advantages it offers to settlers is unquestionably trustworthy.-- <HI REND="italics">Saturday Evening Gazette</HI>
168.sgm:<P>PUBLISHED BY HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, NEW YORK.  <HI REND="italics">The above work will be sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of price</HI>
168.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<AD><P>VALUABLE WORKS<LB>OF<LB>TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE.The Capitals of Spanish America.<LB>The Capitals of Spanish America.  By WILLIAM ELEROY CURTIS, late Commissioner from the United States to the Governments of Central and South America.  With a Colored Map and 358 Illustrations.  8vo, Cloth, Extra, $3 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Charnay's Ancient Cities of the New World.<LB>The Ancient Cities of the New World: being Voyages and Explorations in Mexico and Central America, from 1857 to 1882.  By DE&acute;SIRE&acute; CHARNAY.  Translated from the French by J. GONINO and HELEN S. CONANT.  Introduction by ALLEN THORNDIKE RICE.  209 Illustrations and a Map.  Royal 8vo, Ornamental Cloth, Uncut Edges, Gilt Top, $6 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Hearn's West Indies.<LB>Two Years in the French West Indies.  By LAFCADIO HEARN.  Copiously Illustrated.  Post 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 00.<LB>Warner's South and West.<LB>Studies in the South and West, with Comments on Canada.  By CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER, Author of "Their Pilgrimage," &amp;c.  Post 8vo, Half Leather, $1 75.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Cesnola's Cyprus.<LB>Cyprus: Its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Temples.  A Narrative of Researches and Excavations during Ten Years' Residence in that Island.  By General LOUIS PALMA DI CESNOLA, Member of the Royal Academy of Sciences, Turin; Hon. Member of the Royal Society of Literature, London, &amp;c.  With Maps and Illustrations.  8vo, Cloth, Gilt Tops and Uncut Edges, $7 50; Half Calf, $10 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Bishop's Mexico, California, and Arizona.<LB>Being a New and Revised Edition of "Old Mexico and Her Lost Provinces."  By WILLIAM HENRY BISHOP.  With numerous Illustrations.  12mo, Cloth, $2 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Wallace's Malay Archipelago.<LB>The Malay Archipelago: the Land of the Orang-Utan and the Bird of Paradise.  A Narrative of Travel, 1854-62.  With Studies of Man and Nature.  By ALFRED RUSSEL WALLACE.  With Maps and numerous Illustrations.  New Edition.  Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Wallace's Geographical Distribution of Animals.<LB>The Geographical Distribution of Animals.  With a Study of the Relations of Living and Extinct Faunas, as elucidating the Past Changes of the Earth's Surface.  By ALFRED RUSSEL WALLACE.  With Colored Maps and numerous Illustrations by Zwecker.  2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $1 00.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<P>Stanley's Congo, and the Founding of its Free State.<LB>A Story of Work and Exploration.  By HENRY M. STANLEY.  Dedicated by Special Permission to H. M. the King of the Belgians.  In 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, with over One Hundred full-page and Smaller Illustrations, two large Maps, and several smaller ones.  Cloth, $7 50; Sheep, $9 50; Half Morocco, $12 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Stanley's Through the Dark Continent.<LB>Through the Dark Continent; or, The Sources of the Nile, Around the Great Lakes of Equatorial Africa, and Down the Livingstone River to the Atlantic Ocean.  By HENRY M. STANLEY.  With 149 Illustrations and 10 Maps.  2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $7 50; Sheep, $9 50, Half Morocco, $12 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Stanley's Coomassie and Magdala.<LB>Coomassie and Magdala: a Story of Two British Campaigns in Africa.  By HENRY M. STANLEY.  With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $3 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Livingstone's Last Journals.<LB>The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to his Death.  Continued by a Narrative of his Last Moments and Sufferings, obtained from his Faithful Servants Chuma and Susi.  By HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S.  With Maps and Illustrations.  8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Sheep, $6 00; Half Calf, $7 25.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi.<LB>Narrative of an Expedition to the Zambesi and its Tributaries; and of the Discovery of the Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa.  1858-1864.  By DAVID and CHARLES LIVINGSTONE.  With Maps and Illustrations.  8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Sheep, $5 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Long's Central Africa.<LB>Central Africa: Naked Truths of Naked People.  An Account of Expeditions to the Lake Victoria Nyanza and the Makraka Niam-Niam, West of the Bahr-El-Abiad (White Nile).  By Col. C. CHAILLE&acute; LONG of the Egyptian Staff.  Illustrated from Col. Long's own Sketches.  With Map. 8vo, Cloth, $2 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Du Chaillu's Equatorial Africa.<LB>Adventures in the Great Forest of Equatorial Africa, and the Country of the Dwarfs.  By PAUL B. DU CHAILLU.  <HI REND="italics">Abridged and Popular Edition</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Du Chaillu's Ashango-Land.<LB>A Journey to Ashango-Land, and Further Penetration into Equatorial Africa.  By PAUL B. DU CHAILLU.  Illustrated.  8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Sheep, $5 50; Half Calf, $7 25.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Du Chaillu's Land of the Midnight Sun.<LB>The Land of the Midnight Sun.  Summer and Winter Journeys through Sweden, Norway, Lapland, and Northern Finland.  By PAUL B. DU CHAILLU.  With Map and 235 Illustrations.  In Two Volumes.  8vo, Cloth, $7 50; Half Calf, $12 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Thomson's Voyage of the "Challenger."<LB>The Voyage of the "Challenger."  <HI REND="italics">The Atlantic</HI>
168.sgm:: An Account of the General Results of the Voyage during the Year 1873 and the Early Part of the Year 1876.  By Sir C. WYVILLE THOMSON, F.R.S.  With a Portrait of the Author, many Colored Maps, and Illustrations.  2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $12 00.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<P>Thomson's Southern Palestine and Jerusalem.<LB>The Land and the Book: Southern Palestine and Jerusalem.  By WILLIAM M. THOMSON, D.D., Forty-five Years a Missionary in Syria and Palestine.  140 Illustrations and Maps.  Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00; Sheep, $7 00; Half Morocco, $8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Thomson's Central Palestine and Ph&oelig;nicia.<LB>The Land and the Book: Central Palestine and Ph&oelig;nicia.  By WILLIAM M. THOMSON, D.D.  130 Illustrations and Maps.  Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00; Sheep, $7 00; Half Morocco, $8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Thomson's Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan.<LB>The Land and the Book: Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan.  By WILLIAM M. THOMSON, D.D.  147 Illustrations and Maps.  Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00; Sheep, $7 00; Half Morocco, $8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>The Land and the Book.  ( <HI REND="italics">Popular Edition</HI>
168.sgm:.)<LB>Comprising the above three volumes.  Square 8vo, Cloth, $9 00.  ( <HI REND="italics">Sold in Sets only</HI>
168.sgm:<P>Bridgman's Algeria.<LB>Winters in Algeria.  Written and Illustrated by FREDERICK ARTHUR BRIDGMAN.  Square 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $2 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Pennells' Hebrides.<LB>Our Journey to the Hebrides.  By JOSEPH PENNELL and ELIZABETH ROBINS PENNELL.  Illustrated.  Post 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, $1 75.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Shoshone, and Other Western Wonders.<LB>By EDWARDS ROBERTS.  With a Preface by CHARLES FRANCIS ADAMS.  Illustrated.  pp. xvi., 276.  Post 8vo, Cloth, $1 00; Paper, 75 cents.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Schweinfurth's Heart of Africa.<LB>The Heart of Africa; or, Three Years' Travels and Adventures in the Unexplored Regions of the Centre of Africa.  From 1868 to 1871.  By Dr. GEORG SCHWEINFURTH.  Translated by ELLEN E. FREWER.  With an Introduction by WINWOOD READE.  Illustrated by about 130 Wood-cuts from Drawings made by the Author, and with Two Maps.  2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $8 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Speke's Africa.<LB>Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile.  By JOHN HANNING SPEKE, Captain H. M. Indian Army, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the Royal Geographical Society, Hon. Corresponding Member and Gold Medalist of the French Geographical Society, &amp;c.  With Maps and Portraits and numerous Illustrations, chiefly from Drawings by Captain GRANT.  8vo, Cloth, $4 00; Sheep, $4 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Baker's Ismaili&uml;a.<LB>Ismaili&uml;a: a Narrative of the Expedition to Central Africa for the Suppression of the Slave-trade, organized by ISMAIL, KHEDIVE OF EGYPT.  By Sir SAMUEL WHITE BAKER, Pasha, M.A., F.R.S., F.R.G.S., Major-general of the Ottoman Empire, late Governor-general of the Equatorial Nile Basin, &amp;c. &amp;c.  With Maps, Portraits, and upwards of fifty full-page Illustrations by Zwecker and Durand.  8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Half Calf, $7 25.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
168.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
168.sgm:<P>Schliemann's Ilios.<LB>Ilios, the City and Country of the Trojans.  The Results of Researches and Discoveries on the Site of Troy and Throughout the Troad in the years 1871-'72-'73-'78-'79; including an Autobiography of the Author.  By Dr. HENRY SCHLIEMANN, F.S.A., F.R.I. British Architects; Author of "Troy and its Remains," "Mycen&aelig;," &amp;c.  With a Preface, Appendices, and Notes by Professors Rudolf Virchow, Max Mu&uml;ller, A. H. Sayce, J. P. Mahaffy, H. Brugsch-Bey, P. Ascherson, M. A. Postolaccas, M. E. Burnouf, Mr. F. Calvert, and Mr. A. J. Duffield.  With Maps, Plans, and about 1800 Illustrations.  Imperial 8vo, Cloth, $7 50; Half Morocco, $10 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Schliemann's Troja.<LB>Troja.  Results of the Latest Researches and Discoveries on the Site of Homer's Troy, and in the Heroic Tumuli and other Sites, made in the year 1882, and a Narrative of a Journey in the Troad in 1881.  By Dr. HENRY SCHLIEMANN, Author of "Ilios," &amp;c.  Preface by Professor A. H. Sayce.  With 150 Wood-cuts and 4 Maps and Plans.  8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Half Morocco, $7 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Thomson's Malacca, Indo-China, and China.<LB>The Straits of Malacca, Indo-China, and China; or, Ten Years' Travels, Adventures, and Residence Abroad.  By J. THOMSON.  With over Sixty Illustrations.  8vo, Cloth, $4 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Spry's Cruise of the "Challenger."<LB>The Cruise of Her Majesty's Ship "Challenger."  Voyages over many Seas, Scenes in many Lands.  By W. J. J. SPRY, R.N.  With Maps and Illustrations.  Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Cameron's Across Africa.<LB>Across Africa.  By VERNEY LOVETT CAMERON, C.B., D.C.L., Commander Royal Navy, &amp;c.  With a Map and Numerous Illustrations.  8vo, Cloth, $5 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Va&acute;mbe&acute;ry's Central Asia.<LB>Travels in Central Asia: being the Account of a Journey from Teheran across the Turkoman Desert, on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian, to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand, performed in the year 1863.  By ARMINIUS VA&acute;MBE&acute;RY, Member of the Hungarian Academy of Pesth, by whom he was sent on this Scientific Mission.  With Map and Wood-cuts.  8vo, Cloth, $4 50; Half Calf, $6 75.</P>
168.sgm:<P>MacGahan's Campaigning on the Oxus.<LB>Campaigning on the Oxus and the Fall of Khiva.  By J. A. MACGAHAN.  With Map and Illustrations.  8vo, Cloth, $3 50.</P>
168.sgm:<P>Forbes's Wanderings in the Eastern Archipelago.<LB>A Naturalist's Wanderings in the Eastern Archipelago.  A Narrative of Travel and Exploration from 1878 to 1883.  By HENRY O. FORBES, F.R.G.S., &amp;c.  With many Illustrations and Colored Maps.  8vo, Ornamental Cloth, $5 00.</P>
168.sgm:<P>PUBLISHED BY HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, NEW YORK.<LB>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS <HI REND="italics">will send any of the above works by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of the price</HI>
173.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>CALBK1-173</TITLE>
173.sgm:<TITLE>The last of the Mill Creeks, and early life in northern California, by Sim Moak: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
173.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
173.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
173.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
173.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
173.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
173.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
173.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>25-10432</LCCN>
173.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
173.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 856825</COPYRIGHT>
173.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<illus entity="a173-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SIM MOAK CAPT. R. A. ANDERSON JAKE MOAK</P>
173.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>The Last of the Mill Creeks</P>
173.sgm:<P>and Early Life in Northern California</P>
173.sgm:<P>BY</P>
173.sgm:<P>SIM MOAK</P>
173.sgm:<P>CHICO, CALIFORNIA</P>
173.sgm:<P>1923</P>
173.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<HEAD><HI REND="bold">START FOR CALIFORNIA</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The writer was born October 6th, 1845, eight miles west of Albany city, New York.</P>
173.sgm:<P>My two oldest brothers came to California in 1853.  My oldest brother came back in 1856 and he gave such a glowing description of California it caused my brother Jake and I to come to California with him in 1863.  We left Albany, New York, May 6th.  We took a Hudson River steamer for New York City.  Left New York May the 8th on the ocean steamer, "America."  We were six days coming to Gray-Town, Nicaraugua.  We lay at Gray Town fifteen days, the cause of this delay was that the steamer, "Moses Taylor," which was to bring us from San Juan Del Sur, Nicaraugua, to San Francisco, broke a shaft when three days out and had to run back for repairs.</P>
173.sgm:<P>If one has never been in Central America it is a great surprise.  The foliage is such a beautiful green.  Oranges, lemons, limes, pineapples, cocoanuts, bananas and bread fruit in abundance, and many lizzards and monkeys of all sizes, and parrots and birds of the most beautiful plumage.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The first woman fight I ever saw was on board the steamer.  There was a big, husky girl aboard from Vermont by the name of Mary Nesbit.  She had worked on the farm pitching hay and doing all kinds of farm work.  She was well educated and had taught school.  There was a great many Irish women on board.  The Nesbit girl was always making remarks about the Irish and their religion.  One day one of the Irish women laid her baby in the Nesbit girl's berth, and when the girl went to lie down she picked the baby up and laid it in it's mothers berth.  It woke up and began to cry.  The mother heard it and came rushing up and accused the Nesbit girl of pinching it.  She said she had not pinched it.  The Irish woman then said she lied, and made for her.  The Nesbit girl ran back as far as she could go and when the Irish woman tried to close in on her she struck out--and talk of the kick of a mule, that girl sure had it.  Two other Irish women tried to get at the girl over the one that was down and they both fell from the mulekicking arm.  My brother, Jake, and the big negro steward, separated them.  They were ordered on deck, and when Jake told what he had seen, the Irish woman said, "She struck me on the nose."</P>
173.sgm:<P>The captain said, "What did you say?"</P>
173.sgm:<P>"He struck me on the nose, he did, begad, he did," she replied, meaning Jake.</P>
173.sgm:<P>She looked as if she had been struck with a sledge hammer.</P>
173.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">CATCHING TURTLES</HI>
173.sgm:<P>There are no roads in Gray Town.  The natives do nearly all their business in canoes.  It was amusing to see them catching those large sea turtles.  Two of them would go in a canoe.  One would have a paddle in the back end and the other would have a pair of oars.  When they saw the turtles on the beach digging holes to lay their eggs, they would go very quietly until they were close enough, then they would row as fast as they could and beach the canoe and jump out and run, and the turtles would see them and break for the water.  It was a race for life on the turtles' part, for if the natives could turn one over on its back they had them all right.  Some of these turtles were so large it required two natives to turn them over.  The captains of the vessels would buy them for about five dollars each and take them to New York and sell them for about fifty dollars apiece to the high toned restaurants.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">A STINGAREE</HI>
173.sgm:<P>There were some French aboard the steamer.  They had a siene and they asked the natives if there was a place to get some fish.  They said yes, over to the islands.  There are three beautiful islands about a half a mile away.  They got their seine, and about a dozen natives and their canoes, and started out.  There is in these waters what the natives call a stingaree, and I think it is a kind of an eel.  When they pulled the seine ashore it had a very large one in it.  There was a big husky Frenchman and he thought it was an eel.  He grabbed it back of the head and it threw its tail over and struck him on the arm, about five inches below the shoulder.  It was not long after this before the boats were seen coming back, and when near enough we could hear the big Frenchman roar.  The steamer doctor knew what had happened before he got aboard.  He gave external and internal treatment.  The Frenchman roared all night, but the next day rested easy.  The sting of one of these stingarees is as poison as the bite of a rattle snake.  His arm swelled to three times its size and the skin peeled off the ends of his fingers.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The natives of Nicaraugua are black and have straight hair.  They are very indolent, as they do not have to rustle for a living.  There is a plant growing there that looks like the banana, only larger.  It is called the plantain.  The natives peel it, slice and fry it, as we do potatoes.  The bread fruit they gather and bury in the sand until it turns yellow and then dig a hole in the sand and build a fire in it and when there is a good bed of live coals put the fruit in and cover it with more coals and bake till done.  It tastes somewhat like sweet potatoes.</P>
173.sgm:<P>There is in that country a very large lizzard called the aquanno lizzard.  The largest get to be three feet long.  They hunt them with dogs.  The dogs tree them and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>It is quite interesting the way they keep Sunday.  In the morning they go to church, then come home for lunch.  After this is over they then engage in horse racing, dog fighting and cock fighting--and they sure have some real game birds.  At night there is always a big fandango, or dance.</P>
173.sgm:<P>They live in huts made of bamboo poles set in the ground and covered, top and sides, with palm leaves.  The palm leaves are very large--one of them being exhibited in the British museum in London that is thirty feet in length and twenty feet wide.  They grow the largest in the Amazon valley, along the Amazon river.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">CROSSING THE ISTHMUS</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The Nicaraugua river was very low.  We came up it in flat boats until we came to the Castilian Rapids.  These rapids were made by the natives a long time ago when the Spaniards took Mexico and their country was in danger of an invasion.  They went to the mountain side, which extends to the river and is covered with large boulders, and rolled them into the river until the rapids were formed.  No kind of a boat can go over them.  I think there are more sharks in the Nicaraugua river than any other river in the world.  Above the rapids we saw so many and did not know what they were, and when we tried to catch them they bit our lines in two.  One man had a large sturgeon hook.  We baited this with a piece of pork and caught sixteen in less than an hour.  There were some French in the party, and they skinned, fried and ate them and said they were good.  We had to lay over at the rapids until the natives could transport the baggage around the rapids, then we took a river steamer and came to Lake Nicaraugua.  Here we found a steamer as large as an ocean steamer.  We crossed the lake to Egg Harbor, and then we had twelve miles of land to cross.  This route is all waterway except this stretch of twelve miles to the Pacific.  The natives and the Mexicans had horses and mules galore to transport the passengers.  The company also had a great many Concord coaches and it was as good as a circus to see those little Mexican mules harnessed to a coach.  Some had never had a harness on.  They would buck and run and the Mexican vacqueros, one riding on each side, with long quirts, would keep them company, whipping and yelling as they went.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The company issued tickets here to all the passengers, good for two dollars and a half, and one could walk the twelve miles and present his ticket at the Company's office when he got to the coast, or if he went by stage he gave it to the driver--or he could get a hosse or mule to ride by giving the ticket to the owner.  Jake and I concluded we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>They hauled the baggage with oxen on two-wheeled Mexican carts.  The yoke was laid on the neck of the oxen, just back of the horns, and fastened by winding a rope around the butt of the horns, and an ox had to have a good stiff neck to pull much of a load.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">SHOTGUN AND MULE.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The country is quite hilly and the oxen would sometimes get half way up hill, then balk and back all the way down.  The drivers would then attempt it again.  I could not understand the language used but it sure was fierce.  Jake and I were not in a hurry to start.  He had a young black mule and I had a good horse.  He had bought a fine shot gun in New York and wherever he went he took the gun with him.  When his mule concluded to turn back every time it got a hundred yards from the corral I said "Fire the gun off past her ear."  No sooner had I said it than Jake fired--and then the fun began.  The mule started to whirl around and continued to do so.  No circus animal could hold a candle to that mule.  Pretty soon Jake began to holler for me to stop her, so I said, "Fire the other barrel past the other ear; but he refused and continued to yell "Stop her, or I will fall off," and he was getting so dizzy that he could hardly stick on, so I ran my horse up past him and the mule followed on the way.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">WE RESCUE A BABY.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>Among the passengers was a man and his wife who had been sick the whole trip.  They had a baby about a year old.  They took the stage but were too sick to give the baby any care so they gave a native two dollars and a half to take it across.  Part way Jake and I overtook him.  I said, "Look, that native has the baby.  If he should go off in the woods they would never see it again.  I am going to take it away."</P>
173.sgm:<P>Jake said, "You'll get into trouble," but I rode up along side of the native and said, "Give me that baby."</P>
173.sgm:<P>He said "No."  But when he saw that I meant it he gave it up, and when we got in they were looking for the native, and were very thankful to me when they saw that I had brought the baby in.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The soil in these hills is about the same as in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, the oak and pine are the same, but grow thicker.</P>
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173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">ARRIVE AT SAN FRANCISCO</HI>
173.sgm:<P>When we got to Acapulco they ran into the harbor for coal, but no one was allowed to go ashore.  Maximillian had possession of the town and we could see his soldiers drilling.  We steamed into San Francisco harbor in the morning and stayed there three days, then taking a boat to Sacramento and from there another boat to Marysville.  There were no railroads in California at that time.  From Marysville we hired a four horse team to take us to Oroville.  When we got there we found our brother John awaiting us.  One of my little nephews took the measles on board the steamer and he lingered for a few days and died.  He was a beautiful, quiet child.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Brother John and his partners were mining on Oregon Gulch, so we helped them mine for a few days.  There was an old lady there by the name of Simpson who kept a road house and I hired her to tend the garden and tend bar.  The miners would come and play cards and drink and get in a fight.  This kind of a life did not suit me.  One month was enough for me and I quit.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">HURDY GURDY GIRLS ARRIVE.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>Previously to this time (1858) the miners as a part of their amusements, often had stag dances in the bar-rooms, the ladies being represented by men with a white handkerchief tied about their arms.  Later, the hurdy-gurdy girls came.  These girls, mostly of German birth, came four together, accompanied by a boy who played an accordeon.  The dances were in bar-rooms, and the dance cost the men fifty cents, one-half of which went to the bar, the other to the girl.  These girls traveled on foot from camp to camp, and remained in one camp as long as it was profitable.  Stringtown was one of their most favored places.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Cherokee Flat was a booming mining camp at that time, their monthly clean up running from forty to sixty thousand dollars.  When they took the gold to Oroville, they had a very fast team.  Two men, each with a double-barreled shotgun, sat in the back seat of the wagon and another similarly equipped sat beside the driver.  They were never robbed.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Senator George C. Perkins ran a grocery store in Oroville when I came and he had the patronage of the entire mountain country and the miners and surrounding valley farmers as well.  If a miner was broke and went to Perkins for a grub stake he was never refused, and quite often they would give him an interest in a very rich claim.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">HIGH FINANCE</HI>
173.sgm:<P>During the war greenbacks throughout California were below par.  They fluctuated a great deal and at one time were worth only thirty cents on the dollar.  In the east the premium on gold equaled the discount on greenbacks.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>When I came to California I found all the best land taken in grants ceded to the owners by the Mexican government and confirmed by the United States; of course some were fraudulent and rejected.  There was a large grant bordering Chico on the south.  It was very rich land and was known as the Hensley Grant.  Hensley gave a large strip of this land to Bidwell for services Bidwell rendered him at one time in Washington.  Bidwell sold a great number of farms to settlers, but he gave a quit claim deed to all but one and he gave Squire Wright a guaranty deed for 640 acres for which Wright paid seven thousand dollars; then Bidwell was elected to Congress.  John Connes was United States Senator and they framed a bill called the "Bidwell-Connes Bill," the provisions of which were: "The settler who had purchased his land from whom he believed to be a bonafide grant holder could re-purchase his land from the government and get a government title by paying one dollar and twenty-five cents an acre.  This cleared Bidwell of any further trouble except the 640 acres sold to Wright for which Bidwell had to pay one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre.  A portion of this grant was not settled until it was rejected.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">A FIFTY-FOUR POUND NUGGET.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>When I first came to Chico there were two stores and one hotel.  The hotel was built by Ira Wetherby in 1862.  Wetherby was formerly a miner and he took the largest nugget out of his claim ever mined in the United States, it weighed fifty-four pounds and with what he got for it he built the hotel.  This hotel was the center of attraction, it was the stopping place for the California and Oregon stages.  They changed horses here.  They had the best horses the country produced.  Wetherby was one of those large hearted men.  If a man came to him and said he was broke his answer was, "Whenever that bell rings you go and eat."  His latch string always hung on the outside and it was one of the best hotels in the state.  It burned down in 1868 and he built a large hotel where the Majestic now stands.  It was built entirely of redwood.  It took fire and burned to the ground.  This made Wetherby a poor man but he bore his misfortune with the fortitude of one of God's noblemen, which he was.</P>
173.sgm:<P>One of the stores in Chico was kept by Bidwell and George Wood, the other was kept by the Pond Brothers, E. B. Pond and Charles Pond.  E. B. Pond ran for Governor, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>In 1863 there was organized a company of militia, known as the Chico Home Guards.  Joseph Eddy was Captain; Ed Hallet, First Lieutenant and C. L. Stilson, the Second Lieutenant.  My brother and I belonged to it.  When Bidwell ran for Congress he traveled over his district and made speeches.  He invited the company of Chico Home Guards to accompany him to Oroville.  He had a number of Concord coaches and everybody rode.  He paid all expenses.  Oroville and Marysville also had companies of Home Guards.  The Marysville Guards invited the Oroville and Chico Guards to Marysville.  We accepted the invitation and went to Marysville on the second railroad built in Northern California.  It was built by a man by the name of Binney.  The Southern Pacific bought it and are using the same route today.</P>
173.sgm:<P>There was in Chico, "The Order of the Union League."  Bidwell, Judge Barger, Judge Hallet and nearly all the union men in the vicinity of Chico belonged to it.  My brother and I belonged to it.  We pledged ourselves to uphold the Union at all hazards as there were a large number of secessionists in the country.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The first time I saw how the Indians mourned for their dead was in 1863.  The little son of the Chief of the Bidwell Indians died.  We could hear them moaning so we went.  There were six or seven old squaws sitting in the deep dust, they scooped it up with both hands and threw it over themselves and in their hair, howling in a very pitiful manner.  They had all the little fellow's playthings on a scaffold and these were buried with him to play with in the Happy Hunting Ground.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The Rancheria was at that time where the Children's Play Grounds is now.  The Indians were known by the owner's name of the land on which the rancheria was located such as, the Bidwell Indians, Neal Indians, the Keiffer Indians, Girkney Indians and so on.</P>
173.sgm:<P>When I first knew Bidwell he was a Major for a great many years.  The rank was given him in the Mexican war and he was afterwards appointed Brigadier General by one of the Governors of California.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">NEAL DISCIPLINES AN INDIAN.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>There were some very eccentric characters in this country in the early days, one by the name of Sam Neal.  This is taken from the memoirs of Sandy Young, his foreman.  Neal had a large grant of land, where Durham is now, horses and cattle by the hundreds and also a large rancheria of Indians.  He was a perfect tyrant over the Indians.  One of them did something one day he did not like so he told the Indian he should ride the horse outlaw.  This horse could not be conquered.  He would kick, bite and strike and would never quit bucking.  All the Indians were afraid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>The old wagon road from Marysville to Chico ran by Neal's place.  One evening a man rode up on horesback and asked Neal if this was the Neal ranch.  Neal said, "Yes."</P>
173.sgm:<P>"I would like to stay all night," said the man.</P>
173.sgm:<P>"I don't keep transient men," said Neal.  This was not the truth, for he kept travelers.</P>
173.sgm:<P>"How far is it to the next place?"</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Six miles, Bidwell keeps travelers."  It had been raining hard all day.</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Well," said the traveler, "My horse is jaded and I am wet through and I am not going any further.  I am going to stop with you."</P>
173.sgm:<P>"All right" said Neal.  He called to the hostler.  "Here take this man's horse, give him plenty of hay and barley.  Come in and I will order supper.  Here, cook give this man a good supper."</P>
173.sgm:<P>After supper the man dried his clothes by the large fireplace.  At bedtime Neal said, "Here is a good warm room and a good bed."</P>
173.sgm:<P>The next morning the traveler asked what his bill was.</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Nothing at all, when you come by, stop," said Neal.  He had found a man that was game.</P>
173.sgm:<P>There was a desperado in this country by the name of Vasquez.  He operated from Amador County up through Butte, robbing and stealing and finally murder.  They caught him and he was sentenced to be hung.  He had a considerable lot of property and his people were quite wealthy, one of the old Spanish families.  He ordered a special coffin with a soft padded cushion.  He had it brought in his cell.  He examined it, patted the soft cushion and said, "I will sleep here forever well."</P>
173.sgm:<P>The winter of '63 and '64 was very dry.  The ranchers and stockmen of the San Joaquin Valley drove great bands of horses and sheep up through the Sacramento Valley in search of feed.  Sheep could be brought for twenty-five cents per head and cows for ten dollars a head.</P>
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173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE MASSACRE OF THE HICKOK CHILDREN</HI>
173.sgm:<P>In the settlement of Butte, Tehama and Shasta counties in the early sixties the people living in and along the foot hills were in danger of being slain by a band of Indians, known as the Mill Creeks as their main camp was at Black Rock on Mill Creek.  They were a cruel, blood-thirsty band.  The chief was called Big Foot, as he had six toes on his right foot.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The killing of the Hickok children was in June, 1862.  The Hickok children, two girls and a boy were gathering black berries on Rock Creek about three-quarters of a mile from their home when they were surrounded by a number of Indians.  They first shot the oldest girl, she was seventeen years old.  When found she was entirely nude.  They then shot the younger girl, fifteen years old, but she ran to Rock Creek and fell with her face in the water.  They did not take her clothing as she was in full dress when found.  Just then Tom Allen came upon the scene.  He was hauling lumber for a man by the name of Keefer.  They immediately attacked Allen.  He was found scalped with his throat cut.  Seventeen arrows had been shot in him and seven had gone partly through so that they had to be pulled out the opposite side.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The little boy of twelve years, they captured and took with them.  A company of about thirty men started after the Indians.  They did not know anything about tracking the Indians and went in the hills without provisions and had to come back.  This Mr. Keefer had a rancheria on his ranch, a sawmill in the mountains and a grist mill a short distance below the Hickok home.  Mr. Keefer sent for Hi. Good, who was known to be a great Indian trailer, and Indian fighter.  When Good arrived Mr. Keefer said, "Mr. Good, I want you to get the Hickok boy, you can have all the money you want."  He then emptied his purse of seventy-five dollars and gave it to Good.  Good had a man living with him by the name of Bowman, so he and Bowman, William Sublet and Obe Fields went to the Indian camp at Black Rock, which they found deserted.  The finally found the trail going north out of the canyon.  This they followed up a long ridge and near the top they found the boy by the odor.  They made a litter of their clothing and packed the little fellow out to Good's place in the valley, thirty-five miles.  It was a trip that none but heroic men could endure.  The little boy was buried by the side of his sisters in the Chico cemetery.</P>
173.sgm:<P>My wife went to school with the baby sister of the Hickok children.  She used to cry and tell about the massacre.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The first person buried in the Chico cemetery was a man by the name of Fry, he was killed by the Mill Creek Indians.  T. F. Rinehart provided in his will for a monument to be put at Fry's grave.</P>
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173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE DIGGER INDIANS</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The Digger Indians in the Sacramento Valley were a very filthy lot.  They would eat anything, even spoiled meat.  The way they caught grasshoppers and ate them would turn the stomach of anyone.  When grasshoppers were plentiful they would dig a hole about six feet deep then they would all get a brush and form a large circle and drive the hoppers towards the hole, and when they were all in one of the Indians would jump in with his bare feet and go to stomping and it would soon be a mushy mess.  The Indians would then eat them raw and they would sack them up, and take them to camp for winter use, mixing them with acorn flour, which was made by pounding acorns in a stone mortar.  The soup was boiled in water-tight baskets by putting hot rocks in the baskets, and it is surprising how soon they would have the water boiling.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE MASSACRE OF THE LEWIS CHILDREN</HEAD>
173.sgm:<P>The killing of the Lewis children by the Mill Creek Indians was in the Summer of 1863 on the fifth or sixth of July.  Sam Lewis lived on Dry Creek, seventeen miles southeast of Chico on Cherokee road.  His children were going to school about two miles from their home.  The elder boy, Jimmy, eleven years old, the girl, Thankful, nine, and Little Johnny, six.  The little fellow did not go to school regularly but on this particular day asked to go and his mother let him go.  As they were returning home in the evening the little boy wanted a drink.  They left the road and went to the creek and lay down to drink.  The oldest boy was drinking, the little boy and sister were standing waiting for him.  The first thing they knew they heard a shot and Jimmy was shot in the back and pitched forward in the water.  Four Indians appeared and began throwing rocks and boulders on him to make sure he was dead.  The little boy and girl stood looking on, trembling with fear.  Six other Indians then joined them, one of them had one big foot and one small one.  This was Big Foot, the Chief of the Mill Creeks.  They then started for the hills.  They forced the children along until way in the night, until they came to Nance Canyon, where they camped.  The little girl held the little boy on her lap and did not sleep.  They left camp before daylight.  Johnny began to cry.  He and the little girl were barefooted.  When the little boy began to weaken four of the Indians took him back out of sight of the girl.  She said, "You are going to kill little brother, let me go and kiss him."</P>
173.sgm:<P>They said, "No, he is all right."  She said she knew they had killed him when they came back, as Big Foot had the little boy's hat on his head and one had his clothes.</P>
173.sgm:<P>They then crossed Butte Creek and then Little Chico Creek and between Little and Big Chico Creeks they rounded up some cattle and shot a steer of General Bidwell's.  They skinned it and made mocassins, which they tied on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>The Indian who had her in charge was lame and when they crossed the Big Chico Creek he and the girl were some distance behind the others.  She told him she wanted to rest and for him to go and get some of them to help him with his load of meat as they could not keep up.  He said, "You can rest if you want, run, if you do, I shoot."  She sat down behind a large boulder.  The Indian went up the hill until he was out of sight.  She then rolled down the hill until she came to the creek, she jumped in and ran down it until the water got too deep.  She then ran up the bank and down the creek until she saw a drift pile and she crawled under it and lay very still.  Soon she heard them talking as they were looking for her.  Finally all was still.  She crawled out and ran down the bank of the creek to the Thomasson home and was met at the door by Mrs. Thomasson, in whose oustretched arms she fell.</P>
173.sgm:<P>She told them how the Indians had had her and she got away.  Mrs. Thomasson gave her dinner and washed her feet and greased them and made her as comfortable as possible.  Just then, Nath. Thomasson came on horseback.  He asked if she could go back the way the Indians came.  She said she could, so Mrs. Thomasson put a pillow on the horse behind the saddle and put her on it.  They went to the butchered steer and when they got to Little Chico Creek the horse could not get up the bluff, so he took the road and took her home.  When they got there Mr. Lewis and his neighbors had found the elder boy and had just buried him.</P>
173.sgm:<P>In the meantime when the children did not come home Mr. Lewis thought they had stayed with their grandmother, who lived near the schoolhouse but he could not rest.  The next morning he saddled his horse and went to see where they were and as he was paassing Mr. Ackley's house, Ackley said, "Where are you going, Sam?"  He said that he was going to see why the children did not come home.  Mr. Ackley said.  "They passed here before sundown."</P>
173.sgm:<P>Mr. Lewis said, "My children are killed by the Indians."  He then rode back and saw the Indian's tracks in the road and rode home and told Mrs. Lewis.  He then notified his neighbors and they soon found Jimmy, the murdered boy.</P>
173.sgm:<P>When Mr. Thomasson came with the little girl she said she could take them to the place where she last saw Johnny.  So she directed them and when they got to the place she told them to hunt for him.  They soon found him where he had been thrown in a large manzanita bush.  He had been beaten with clubs and rocks and stripped naked.  He was so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>In the morning when they left the camp in Nance Canyon one of the Indians left the others and went to the valley.  The little girl did not know if he went to the Neal Rancheria or to the Bidwell Rancheria.</P>
173.sgm:<P>This brutal murder aroused the whole country, so there was a mass meeting held at the Pentz Ranch about two miles from the Lewis home.  People came from all over the county, about five hundred in number.  Some wanted to kill all the Indians in the valley and in the hills.  General Bidwell was there and plead for his Indians, saying he knew them to be innocent, and I believe they were.</P>
173.sgm:<P>All the Indians in the hills were notified to be at the Bidwell Rancheria by a certain date or if caught in the hills after that date they would be shot on sight.  A great many came and one day was set for Mr. Lewis and the little girl to come and investigate.  They took the little girl and led her by the row of Indians.  She finally stopped and took a good look at one of the Indians and said: "He looks just like the one that left the others the morning they killed Johnny."  There was another Indian who had the name of being a bad one.  It did not take more than suspicion to shoot an Indian in those days.  They quickly tied their hands behind them and took them just to the outskirts of the town and there Mr. Lewis and six or seven of his neighbors tied the Indians to two small trees and Mr. Lewis and the others all shot at once and two Indians went to the Happy Hunting Ground.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">BUY A RANCH ON LITTLE CHICO</HI>
173.sgm:<P>When my oldest brother came back in '56 he told how the stockmen rodeoed their cattle and if there was any over six months old that was not marked or branded they belonged to whoever got them.  My brother and I bought a ranch in the Little Chico Canyon.  One day in the winter of 1863 and '64 I took the gun and went down the creek hunting.  As I was going through the brush I saw a very fat calf.  I could not see any mark or brand, so I shot it.  I hurried back home and told my brothers to come with me as I had killed a fine fat wild calf.  The man we had bought the ranch from was living with us; he rose up and said, "What did you shoot," I told him.  He said, "I will bet it is one of old Seeley's and if he finds it out he will send you up."  We went and got the calf.  If I had been arrested, I suppose it would have gone hard with me, but I was perfectly innocent of doing any wrong but I was badly scared.</P>
173.sgm:<P>My first vote was cast for Lincoln in 1864.  I was nineteen years old, having been born October 6th, 1845.  The way I came to vote was that there was a military company of Home Guards in Chico; my brothers and I belonged to it; there were quite a number of the company boys in Chico on election day, and one came to me and asked me if I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE ASSASSINATION OF LIEUTENANT DAVID W. LIVERGOOD</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The assassination of Lieutenant David W. Livergood occurred on the 14th day of April, 1865.  Livergood came to Chico with a company of his soldiers, under Captain Doty, Livergood was one of those genial, pleasant men, always a gentleman and a perfect soldier.  There was a private in the company by the name of Hudson.  He was in the habit of going to town and getting drunk.  The day before he shot Livergood he was drunk in line.  Lovergood ordered two men to take him out of line and march him around the parade ground double-quick.  Hudson made the remark that this was the last time Livergood would ever talk double quick.  Later in the day he was on guard and saw Livergood coming and up and shot him dead and made his escape the next day.  The captain ordered J. H. Allen to take two men and go in search of Hudson.  They went north and crossed the Sacramento river at Tehama.  Going down the road on the Tehama side they saw a man coming toward them.  "There he comes," said Allen.  He knew him by the U.S. shoes he had on.  They expected a fight so they pulled their guns on him and said, "Hands up."  He made no resistance.  They brought him to Chico where he was court martialed and sent to Sacramento, where he was hanged.</P>
173.sgm:<P>In 1864 and 1865 there were quite a number of persons sent to Fort Alcatraz from Butte county.  There was one who when Lincoln was assassinated, made very filthy remarks about Lincoln and preached Jeff Davis.  When Captain Doty, who was in command of the soldiers at Chico, heard of his remarks he detailed three men to bring the man to camp.  This man had always made his boast about what he would do if the soldiers tried to get him and packed a large Colt revolver.  The soldiers rode to his home and asked for him.  His daughter said he was on the plains looking after his stock.  They rode away and soon saw a man on horseback.  They rode up and one said, "Is your name Stewart."</P>
173.sgm:<P>He said, "Yes," and about that time he was looking in the barrels of two carbines.  One rode up and took the revolver.  They then tied his feet under the horse's belly and led him to camp.  He was sent to Alcatraz for three months.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">TOLL ROAD FROM CHICO TO SUSANVILLE</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The legislature granted a franchise to John Bidwell, J. C. Mandeville, R. N. Cochran, D. M. Reavis and John Guill to construct a toll road from Chico to Susanville.  They incorporated as the "Chico and Humboldt Wagon Road company."  There were very few grades as the road went mostly over the tops of the hills.  In coming down the summit on the east side a teamster with a heavy load would cut a tree and chain it to the hind axle of his wagon and drag it, to act as a brake.  There was a road from Red Bluff and one from Oroville to Susanville before the one from Chico.  Bidwell, who put nearly all the money in the road, finally bought the other parties out and conducted it as a toll road.  He made great improvements in the way of grades.</P>
173.sgm:<P>In the Idaho excitement there were a number from Chico who hauled freight from Chico to Idaho with ox teams.  In the spring of 1865 Pierce and Francis started a weekly saddle train and stage route over this road.  They were backed by Bidwell.  The first saddle train left Chico, April 3rd, 1865.  The passengers paid a fare of sixty-six dollars to ride a horse or mule, this included their blankets and provisions which were part of the pack train.  The animals were not very well broken and quite a number were bucked off.  The stock was all bought from Bidwell.  The first stage left Chico, July 10th, 1865.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">HOLDUPS ON CHICO ROAD IN 1865.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>In September, 1865, James Doyle, living in Honey Lake valley, started with an ox team and two wagons to go to Oroville for the winter supplies; when just west of Mountain Meadows, two men stepped out of the brush and ordered him to hold up his hands; robbing him of four hundred dollars, his grub and tobacco, going then to the summit to hold up the Chico and Idaho stage.  The stage would reach the top of the summit at daybreak.  There the driver blew a horn to notify the hostler to have horses ready, as they changed here and stopped twenty minutes for breakfast.  At the Dye ranch on the head of Butte Creek the robbers were hidden behind a jutting rock; it is called "Robbers Rock" today; when the stage came in sight they stepped out and pulled their guns on the driver and ordered him to halt, they then ordered the passengers out.  There were seven of them; they took all their money and valuables.  A Mr. Green, who kept the Sutters Post at White Horse, Nevada was robbed of twenty-six hundred dollars in greenbacks.  There was a little Jew among the passengers who had four thousands dollars packed in his blankets, this the robbers did not get; they took his small change.  There was a man who had a very fine watch, the robbers took it out of his pocket and the man said, "If you take that watch you have got to fight, my father gave it to me."  Mr. Robber handed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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173.sgm:<P>When they got there they found Hi Good, the Indian trailer and Indian fighter, William Sublet and Abe Fields.  They went to the scene of the holdup and tracked the robbers the next day.  The third day Good told Young and the others that he believed they were very near the robbers.  As they were going up a hill Good said, "There is a little meadows and a spring at the top of the hill."  When they got near the top Good said, "You stop here and I will crawl up and see if they are there."  His guess had been correct.  He came back and said, "You crawl up and when I raise my hand, all rise up and pull on them and I will say, "Hands up."  When Good said, "Hands up," they were covered with five guns.  Two of them threw up their hands and the third one started to run.  Good fired over him thinking he would stop, but he would not; then Good said to Young, "Plug him."  Young fired, the bullet struck him in the back and came out just below the navel.  As he fell he threw something in the grass.  Good told Fields and Morris to guard the two while he, Young and Sublet went to see how badly he was hurt.  They found him mortally wounded and it was Young's watch he had thrown in the grass.  They made a litter and made the other two pack him to Prattville.  Doctor Pratt did what he could for him but the next day he died and was buried in Prattville.  The other two were sent to Quincy for trial.  They were found guilty and sent up for life.  They did not get but a few dollars of the money.  The robbers wanted to talk together but they would not let them.  I always though if they had they might have told where the money was cashed.</P>
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173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE MASSACRE AT THE WORKMAN HOME</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The massacre at the Workman Home in Concow Valley was in August, 1865.  The Workman family consisted at the time of which I write of Mrs. Workman, her sister, Miss Smith, who had just come from Australia, and an old man, who went by the name of English John.  Mr. Workman was a miner; his claim was some distance from his home, and he would be at the mine for several days at a time before coming home.</P>
173.sgm:<P>On the 26th day of August, Mrs. Workman and Miss Smith were making dresses of fine silk, that Miss Smith had brought her.  Miss Smith looked up the road and saw nine Indians coming.  She said, "See those Indians?  How savage they look and they have guns."  As the Indians started to come in the front gate she quickly locked the front door and ran out the back door.  One of the Indians ran around the house and as she came out shot her, she ran to the barn, where she fell.  Mrs. Workman ran screaming, and as she came out the Indian struck her on the head with his gun knocking her down; he then threw a large rock on her chest.  The old man was working in the garden under the hill when he heard the shot and Mrs. Workman's scream, started for the house and as he came to the garden gate, one of the Indians shot him through the heart.  The Indians then robbed the house.  They cut Miss Smith's throat, scalped her and mutilated her body in such a shocking manner it is unprintable.  They then cut the old man's throat and scalped him.  They seemed to have forgotten Mrs. Workman at the back door as they did not molest her.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Sometime after the Indians had gone Mrs. Workman regained consciousness.  She could not walk, so she crawled down the road to Mr. Mullen's place.  Mullen went to a quartz mill nearby and gave the alarm.  The miners all turned out, but it was after dark before they reached the Workman home and they did not find Miss Smith's body until the next morning.  Mrs. Workman lingered for some time before she died.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The Indians, after taking all in the house, including sixteen hundred dollars in English sovereigns belonging to Miss Smith, Workman's gold watch and gold dust, they started down the road.  As they came around a bend they met Joe Miller, father of Wendell Miller, President of the First National Bank of Chico.  They immediately fired on him.  He was riding a mule which took fright and ran away.  One bullet struck the saddle horn and one struck Mr. Miller in the right side, just below the ribs, followed around the abdomen, just tearing the skin and came out on the left side.  Miller had a leather bound account book in his right side pocket, the bullet struck it and it was all that saved his life.  He said he did not think a mule could run as fast as that one did.  He took around through the brush and got to his home in Cherokee.  When they came to dress <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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173.sgm:<P>At that time I was working for a man by the name of Tood, about one mile north of Durham.  On the 27th of August about eleven o'clock the thresher broke down and as there was no foundry nearer than Marysville it would take four or five days before the thresher would be in running order, so Mr. Tood paid off the hands and asked them in to dinner and asked all to come back and help him out with his crop.  At the dinner table came the news of the Workman family at Concow.</P>
173.sgm:<P>I had my saddle horse and I started home.  We lived at that time in Little Chico Canyon.  On my way I saw nine or ten men coming along the foot of the hill.  I rode over to them and asked where they were going, they said that they were trailing the Indians.  I told them R. A. Anderson had sent work that if the Indians committed any depredations about here we should come north to Rock Creek and head them off.  I then turned and started for Rock Creek and got there just at dark.  Jack Houser had a tannery there.  Henry and Frank Curtis and Tom Gore were there and the five of use went to the Gore barn and stayed until it began to get light.  The next morning we went up the road to the old Hickok cabin where we found the tracks of the Indians.  They had gone to the cabin and looked in.  It was the place where the Hickok children lived when they were murdered by this same band of Indians.</P>
173.sgm:<P>We went back to Mr. Gore's.  Mrs. Gore gave me breakfast and I then started for R.A. Anderson's and met Mr. Anderson, his wife and children going to Gore's place to spend the day.  Mrs. Gore was Mrs. Anderson's mother.  Anderson had his old long rifle with him.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Houser and the Curtises' wanted to go direct to Deer Creek, but I told them it would not be right as the Concow men had come so far.  I came back along the foothills looking for them and found them at Mud Creek.  Hardy Thomasson, my neighbor, was with them.  I told them to come with me to Gore's, that Anderson and several others were there waiting for them.  When we arrived Mrs. Gore gave us our dinner, then we started for Deer Creek.  Thomasson and I had our saddle horses.  We gave them to the men from Concow who had come so far and they would change off riding when we got to Good's place on Deer Creek.  The sheep herder said Good had gone to Tehama and that he would be back before night.</P>
173.sgm:<P>When Good came and was told about the murder he said, "All right, we will go for them in the morning.  How are you fixed for grub?  We told him we had raw bacon and crackers.  He said, "Save it, no telling how long we will be out."  He then jumped over the fence and caught a large fat wether and cut his throat and said for us to make our supper and breakfast on mutton.  We got some salt and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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173.sgm:<P>We started very early.  There were sixteen of us.  We went up in the hills on the south side of Deer Creek until we came to Deer Creek flats.  Good and Anderson told us to wait and they would go ahead and look for the Indians' trail.  They found it at the upper spring.  They then called us from there.  We went down a long ridge until we came to Deer Creek.  We saw the tracks in the sand.  The Chief, Old Big Foot, and his son, Young Big Foot, were both in the party; both had six toes on the right foot.  We took our clothes off and forded the creek and followed the trail up the north side of the creek until we came to the foot of Iron Mountain.  Here we lost the trial as there were so many tracks going in every way.</P>
173.sgm:<P>As we were looking to see which way they had gone William Merathew went in a thicket and the first thing we knew he came running.  We thought to see an Indian at his heels and instantly a half dozen guns were in readiness to stop Mr. Red Skin, when we saw him grab his hat and fight the yellow jackets.  He had got in their nest.  One of the men went to the creek and called us, he had found a large tree that had floated down and made a fine crossing.  We crossed over and found the Indian camp deserted.  It had been occupied by the squaws and papooses while the Indians were away.  They had left in the morning, we knew, as there was still coals in their fires.  We slicked off strips of raw bacon and put it between two crackers and this was our supper.  When we were after the Indians no one was allowed to build a fire or fire a gun, for we never knew how near we were to them.  The next morning we had breakfast of raw bacon and crackers.  At break of day we were climbing out of Deer Creek.  On the north side of this canyon is a spring named by the emigrants who came by the Lassen Trail route as Grape Vine Spring.  Here the Indians had stopped and undone some of their packages.  I found a spool of silk thread and showed it to Good.  He said, "All right, boys, we will get them."  We went to the top of the hill and came to the Lassen Trail.  Here one of the men left us, saying that he was sick.  This left fifteen of us.  The next canyon to cross was Boat Gunnell Hollow, it was very brushy and we were always on the lookout for fear of being ambushed.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Good and Anderson said they were sure we would find the Indians at Black Rock on Mill Creek.  After crossing Boat Gunnell we went down a long barren ridge into Mill Creek with Anderson in the lead.  He dropped suddenly to his knees and said, "Keep low, boys."  I crawled up and asked him what he had seen.  On the north side of Mill Creek is a long and very high bluff, at the foot of which is a number of springs; they make a green sward of the hillside.  Anderson said, "Look about the center of that green <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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173.sgm:<P>When we got to Mill Creek we lay down in a patch of tall rushes growing there.  Good and Anderson left their guns with us and crawled up the creek with their revolvers to see if they could locate the camp.  They came back about dark and said they saw two squaws gathering something on the hillside and watched to see where they went.  They came to the creek.  We lay there until ten o'clock at night, then we took our clothes off and crossed the creek and lay down on the rocks on the hillside.</P>
173.sgm:<P>At daybreak Anderson took half the men and formed a half circle to the left and Good took the other half and formed a half circle to the right with Good and Anderson in the center.  Anderson told Curtis and I to go down the creek through the thicket and said he would let us know if anything turned up.  Where we had come down the creek was a chaparral thicket.  Sometimes we would have to crawl to get through.  William Merithew was on the extreme right and I was on the extreme left.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The creek had formed a sand bar on which the Indians were camped.  Back of the sand bar the creek had washed and made a bank eight or ten feet high which hid them from us.  Merithew had traveled fast and had gotten to the creek some distance below the sand bar when we looked up the creek and saw an Indian coming off the sand bar with a gun.  He was too far to chance a shot, then we saw Anderson coming down the hill toward the creek and motioned to him.  Anderson ran but the Indian had seen him and ducked under the bank and ran to the ford and started to cross.  The Indian had not seen Good, who by this time had got to about twenty yards of the ford.  When the Indian got in the creek, he could not run, as it was too swift and Good shot him.  The bullet struck him below the right shoulder and came out at the left breast, he crossed the creek and ran down about twenty steps along the bank and fell.</P>
173.sgm:<P>As soon as Good shot, Anderson shouted, "Down the creek, boys, down the creek."  We ran down the creek to the Indian camp where all was confusion.  It came like a thunder bolt out of a clear sky.  The plan had been carried out with such discretion that they did not dream of a white man being within miles of them, nor did they think they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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173.sgm:<P>The next thing was what to do with the squaw and papoose.  One of the buck shot had struck her on the right ankle bone and glanced down the thick skin of her heel.  One of the men took his knife and cut it out, then we filled the cut with pine pitch.  We concluded to bring her to Chico and turn her over to Bidwell and his Indians and tell them to have her forthcoming at any time we would ask to see her.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The first Indian shot by Good had Workman's stove pipe hat on his head and one of Workman's white shirts on.  This was all in the way of clothing.  I saw him lying with the rifle in his hand so I went to get it, but Good got to him first and was scalping him.  I saw he had in his belt a very nice ivory-handled revolver and the muzzle loading pistol I have and two large knives.  As I was taking the belt, Good said, "Give me the revolver, won't you?</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Sure," I replied, and laid it by his feet.  The Indian had a death grip on the rifle and Good and I had to pry his hand open to get it.  The summer before they had robbed the Dargy home on Big Chico Creek of everything, they even emptied the feather beds of the feathers and took the ticks and had taken the rifle.  We knew it to be the Dargy rifle, so Thomasson and I carried it out to Good's place on Deer Creek, 35 miles, besides our own guns.  It was a task never to be forgotten.  He told Dargy he could get it at Good's place, which he did.</P>
173.sgm:<P>We gathered all the Indian plunder we did not want and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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173.sgm:<P>The Concow men who had seen how horrible Miss Smith had been mutilated could not get enough revenge, it seemed.  I saw one of them after an Indian was killed and scalped, cut his throat and twist his head half off and he said, "You will not kill any more women and children."  After Good had taken all the scalps, which he did in this way--he took a buckskin string and sack needle and tied a knot in the end and salted the scalp and run the needle through it down to the knot, then tied another knot about two inches above the scalp and it was ready for the next one.  The string was fastened to his belt and you can imagine a great tall man with a string of scalps from his belt to his ankle.  When this was finished we had breakfast, it consisted of one soda cracker and a small piece of raw bacon.</P>
173.sgm:<P>In coming to this country Miss Smith had brought some very fine silks and shawls, these the squaws had torn in strips and had them pinned over their shoulders.</P>
173.sgm:<P>About eight o'clock we started for home.  It was thirty-five miles to Good's place, the nearest white habitation.  We had water three times.  The Emigrant Spring on the Lassen Trail had gone dry, so we cut sticks and dug until we got water.  We all drank and gave the squaw a drink, then we were ready to come on but the squaw would not come.  We tried every way to persuade her; cut a cane and took hold of her arms, to help her and did all we could, but she was determined she would not come.  Good told us to give the baby to him, and set it on the knapsack, it had to hold fast or fall off so it put its arms around Good's neck and he went down the hill out of sight.  We though she would follow the child but she would not.  Curtis told her to go back.  She went back fifty or sixty yards to where the trail passed between two big rocks.  Here she lay down and pulled the shawl over her head.  Curtis went back.  We heard the revolver shot and we knew what had happened.</P>
173.sgm:<P>We got to Good's place after dark and we were so tired we lay down without any supper.  The Indians had a large white dog that had disappeared in the fight.  Just as we lay down the shephered dogs began to fight so I struck a light and here was that Indian dog.  Good got a chain and captured him and gave him to Mrs. Lewis on Deer Creek.  The Mill Creeks were so thoroughly punished that they never committed any more murders.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The next morning Thomasson and I saddled our horses and came to Pine Creek to the Oak Grove Hotel and Stage Station.  It was owned by a Mr. Phillips and rented to Mr. Hickok, the father of the children that had been murdered by the Mill Creeks.  We stopped and asked if we could get breakfast.  Mrs. Hickok gave us a good breakfast and when we asked Mr. Hickok what the bill was he said half a dollar a piece.  We paid it willingly as we had had nothing to eat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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173.sgm:<P>Bidwell immediately ordered two four-horse teams hitched to two coaches and ordered them to go as fast as possible and meet the Concow men and bring them to Chico.  He then went to the Chico Hotel and told Mr. Wetherby, the proprietor, to give them the best dinner the market afforded and charge it to him.  After dinner he ordered his drivers to take the men home to Concow valley.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Good kept the little Indian girl.  The next spring when I was at Good's place, I asked Good where she was.  He said that she was out gathering flowers.  Presently she came and stood between his knees, he patted her head and she went to sleep.  Good put her in a little bed and said, "When she wakes up I will show you something."  Good had a partner by the name of Barrington, a Frenchman.  Mrs. Barrington was Spanish.  When the little girl awoke and came out Good spoke to Barrington and his wife and they all three talked to her.  Barrington spoke French, Mrs. Barrington Spanish and Good English, and the little girl could speak all three languages.  Good at that time was running a pack train to Idaho.  Mrs. Barrington wanted to go to her people in Mexico as Good bought Barrington out and told them when they left to take the little girl up the canyon to the old sheep herder who had a squaw for his wife and while Good was gone the little girl took sick and died.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE ROBBING OF THE SILVA HOME.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The robbing of the Silva home by the Mill Creek Indians, was on April 24th, 1866.  Mr. Silva was away, Mrs. Silva and the hired man were at the ranch.  About noon they saw a swarm of bees go by and light down the canyon.  They took a box and went to hive them.  When this was done they started for the house and saw the Indians packing the bedding out.  Just then the Indians saw them and fired, but they were too far away and did not get hit.  They immediately started for our home, about a mile down the canyon.  The hired man got there first and all he could say was, "Indians."  Immediately after came Mrs. Silva.  When she got there she fell in a faint.  My brother's wife restored her.  I was away.  My brother told his wife to run some bullets for the big rifle, while he caught a horse.  (In those days we had muzzle loading fire arms.)  He took the gun and rode up the canyon as fast as he could but when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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173.sgm:<P>Just then I got home.  They told me.  I got my gun and we started.  We got to Chico and it being Sunday, the two stores were closed, so we found one of the clerks and got two sacks of crackers and two sides of bacon and away we went.</P>
173.sgm:<P>We rode to the Phillbrook place on Mud Creek and slept in a barn.  Mr. Phillbrook gave us breakfast and we started for R. A. Anderson's place on Rock Creek.  Mr. Anderson, Perry McIntosh, Tom Gore, Rich Goe and Boliver made the party.  We then went to Good's place on Deer Creek.  Good said it was impossible for him to go.  He was running a pack train to Idaho and his forty pack animals and men and merchandise were there and all ready to start next morning.  He said that, if the Indians had committed murder he would go, but as it was just robbery we would have to let him off, and as Anderson could track the Indians we started on.</P>
173.sgm:<P>We found their trail on Deer Creek Flats.  These flats are not on the creek, but on the bluff.  We then went down the Indian trail to the creek, where we found the Indians had crossed.  There were two large lava boulders in the creek.  The Indians had made a crossing by putting poles from the bank to the rock and from rock to rock.  After they had crossed they pulled the last span and let it go down the creek.  When we saw what they had done we were up against it as the creek was very high.  Jack Reed was one of those men, who at all time had a way of getting out of difficulties, he said, "I will go on the bridge to the farthest rock and you go and get long poles and shove in the creek; slant them so they will drift toward the opposite side."  We did as he said and he caught two and rolled them on the bank.  Then he took and put the end he had in notches in the rock.  We then crossed, all but McIntosh.  He would come across to the further rock and then go back.  It was a dangerous crossing.  If a man fell in he would have drowned as the creek was a roaring torrent.  We coaxed and pleaded and finally were going to leave him when he came over.</P>
173.sgm:<P>We traveled up the creek and came to a very high bluff.  Here we found a trail going up the bluff.  It was very steep, but the only way.  We had to go Indian file one behind the other.  When we got to the top, my brother, Jake, was in the lead, Anderson next and I next.  I heard Jake say, "There they are, Bob."  From the top of the bluff the ground sloped to a ravine about fifty or sixty yards and there they were camped.</P>
173.sgm:<P>We ran down among them.  It was a great surprise to the Indians, and also to us as we did not think of finding them there.  But then the thing was on in earnest, every one loading and firing as fast as he could and Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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173.sgm:<P>Mrs. Silva some time before had gone to Chico and bought a wide brimmed spring hat and had had the milliner put flowers all over it; one young Indian had the hat tied on his head and when they broke to run Anderson started after him.  They had a muddy flat to cross, and I believe that Indian could out-run anyone in the United States if Anderson was after him.  I ran across the ravine and had got on the bank and as I looked down I saw an Indian running down the ravine.  I started after him.  He was bothered in running as it was very rocky and I had good ground and as I gained on him I thought I would chance a shot.  I did not know where brother Jake was until I heard him say, "See those two running through the buck brush."  I heard him shoot.  He said, "I have got one."  The one I was after kept running as my shot had not stopped him.  I continued running after him, loading as I ran.  The water at the foot of the ravine ran over a bluff, about seven feet high, in sheets about six feet wide.  On the south there was a thicket under the bluff and when the Indian jumped off the bluff I lost sight of him.  Jake came up and said, "What became of your Indian."  I said, "He is in that thicket."  Jake went around and got down the bluff and went through the thicket.  Then Anderson came; I told him the Indian must be in the thicket.  He told Jake to be careful, but he made a thorough search and said, "He is not there."  I was beaten, as the hillside was all open country, and if he had gone in any direction I would have seen him.</P>
173.sgm:<P>When Jake got in front of the waterfall he said, "There is a great hole in the rock under that water."  He cocked his gun, sprang through the waterfall and instantly we heard the shot, he hollered, "He is here.  I got him."  He came backing out through the waterfall, dragging the Indian out by his long hair.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Jake and I went to find the Indian Jake shot.  He had a red bandana handkerchief; this, Jake said he threw up when the bullet hit him.  We found the handkerchief, it had files, shoemaker's thread and wax, sack twine and needles and was full of such things, but we could not find the Indian.  Anderson called us and said, "They are just like ground squirrels, hard to kill."  The Indian was found in '70 by Drennans.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The Indian Anderson took after lost the flowered bonnet.  Anderson had it and in the chase lost his hat.  We went back to their camp and got almost all they had stolen.  There was a man in our party by the name of Boliver.  The Indians, after robbing the Silva home, went by Boliver's place and robbed it.  Jake was prowling around the camp and directly he came back with a new pair of boots.  Boliver said that they looked just like a pair of boots he had bought Saturday.  He was a large man and the boots just fit him.  He had on a pair of old shoes that were worn out, so he threw them away and wore the boots.</P>
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173.sgm:<P>When they robbed the Boliver home his saddle horse was in the corral; the Indians caught and hamstrung it and when found, was sitting with its forefeet on the ground.  Boliver had to shoot him.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Mr. Silva had taken his pack horse.  We left all our horses at Good's place, so we all took a load of plunder and packed it out to the valley.  Anderson was riding a very small white mule and as we were coming down the stage road one of the party said that Anderson must wear the flowered hat.  We untied it from the top of the pack and Anderson being such a large man we had to tie it on his head.  We then took a scalp and fastened it on the mule's rump.  We met several emigrant wagons going to Oregon.  When we met them the drivers would stop and the canvas would part, and the women and children's heads would poke out.  It was a sight to see that large man riding such a small mule, the long rifle across in front of him and the flowered bonnet and the long haired scalp.  This was the last time we had to punish those Indians.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE GUIRKEY INCIDENT</HI>
173.sgm:<P>I see the Stanford Ranch is being sold off in tracts and in passing I will give you a brief sketch of the man who Stanford purchased his ranch from.  His name was Guirkey.  He was a short, heavy set German and a great bluffer.  As I remember, he came to Chico in 1869 and claimed the land Chico is built on and the Phelan Ranch, and a portion of Crouch's and Rogers' Ranch, on the Dayton Road.  Joe Shearer owned the lot where the Savings Bank is and through to Salem street.  He paid Guirky one hundred and fifty dollars and got a quit claim deed.  I heard Reavis, who at that time owned the Phelan Ranch had paid him four thousand dollars.  He stayed in Chico three or four days and told how he was going to turn the Bidwell home into a horse barn.  Bidwell notified the property owners of Chico not to pay Guirkey one cent and he would see them through.  After Guirkey got all the money he could with bluffing, he went on a big drunk and went home, and that was the last heard of Guirkey's claim.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">CHINESE TROUBLE IN THE EARLY DAYS IN CALIFORNIA.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>When I came to California there were a great number of Chinese in Oroville and every mining camp throughout the state.  Every Chinaman who worked in the mines was taxed four dollars a month mining tax.  There was a young man in one of the Southern Counties who wanted to go to Oregon, but he did not have the money so he bought an account book and went to the different mining camps and collected the mining tax.  The Chinese thought it was all right but he would not sign the receipts, just scribble on them.  In about two weeks here came the deputy sheriff.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>The anti-Chinese racial hatred in Chico in 1877 was the cause of a great deal of trouble.  Citizens in Chico who employed Chinese, received letters like this.</P>
173.sgm:<P>To General Bidwell:-</P>
173.sgm:<P>Sir: Get rid of your Chinese help within the next two months or suffer the consequence, let this be enough."  General Bidwell employed Chinese in his orchards.</P>
173.sgm:<P>To Charles Ball:-</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Charles Ball, get rid of your Chinese help within fifteen days from this date or meet the consequences."</P>
173.sgm:<P>Signed:--"Committee."</P>
173.sgm:<P>To Mrs. Jones:-</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Madame have the kindness to discharge your Chinese help within two weeks and save trouble."</P>
173.sgm:<P>To the Union Hotel:-</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Sirs:--If you would consult your interests, get rid of your Chinese help, all of them, inside of twenty days from this date and save your property from the red glare of night, let this be your warning."--Signed:--"Committee."</P>
173.sgm:<P>To J. M. Decker:-</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Sir:--You will discharge all the Chinese in your employ at present, before the first of next month and save yourself trouble, you will not be told again."--Signed:--"Committee."</P>
173.sgm:<P>They had torch light parades, and on some of the banners carried by the men were printed, "Send the Yellow Devils Away."  "Down with the Chinese."  "The Chinese Must Go."</P>
173.sgm:<P>The greatest sight of all was quite a number of women wheeling their babies in baby buggies through the streets, nearly every baby had a banner in it's hand.  One read, "We will have to stop having these unless the Chinese go."</P>
173.sgm:<P>The feeling against the Chinese had become so bitter it finally ended in murder.  My wife's uncle, Chris Lemm had a piece of land he wanted cleared and he made a contract with the Chinese to clear it.  The land was on Big Chico Creek about two miles east of Chico and extended to the main road leading to the mountains.</P>
173.sgm:<P>On the thirteenth of March, 1877, after their day's work was over and they had had supper they lay down on their bunks which were in a row.  About nine o'clock five men and a boy came to the Chinese camp.  They pulled their revolvers and ordered the Chinese to sit on the foot of their bunks, which were about one foot off the ground.  Two of the men searched the camp and got a few dollars, then they placed themselves each in front of a Chinaman and at the word fired.  One did not fire as quickly as the others and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>Mr. Lemm and the men on the place were going to find out what the trouble was but his wife and mine would not let them.  The Chinaman then left and went to Chico and gave the alarm.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The next morning after the murder I was going to Chico and met a great many wagons and people on horseback going in the direction of the Lemm ranch.  Finally I met Henry Mansfield, the Marshal of Chico.  I asked him where all the people were going.  He said, "Why don't you know, some fiends murdered those innocent Chinese on the Lemm ranch."  I turned and went back with him.  When we got to the camp, it was a horrible sight.  The first Chinaman we saw was lying partly across the door, dead, with his brains oozing out.  We had to step over him to get in.  The next two lay on their bunks dead, the fourth had been shot in his head and his brains were oozing out and he lay moaning.  He died while the inquest was being held.  The fifth Chinaman we found across the slough under a buckeye bush.  He was shot in the breast, the bullet ranging downward and lodging in his back.  He had a jack knife and had cut seven gashes trying to cut the bullet out.  Dr. Watts took the bullet out.  I afterwards heard that the Chinese doctor of Chico cured him.  The names of the victims were: Ah Lee, Ah Gow, Shu In and Ah Quen.</P>
173.sgm:<P>H. T. A. Smiser was foreman of the jury.  The people of Chico and vicinity could not imagine who the perpetrators of the crime could be, so, Bidwell hired a young man by the name of Radcliffe to watch the postoffice and when a letter was dropped in the box he would take it and compare the signature to the threatening letters received by the citizens.  On the second day a letter was dropped and in the same hand-writing as the letter he held.  He went out and saw the man who had dropped it, and followed him down to the Slaughter home.  Those Slaughters were not related to the Reverend Slaughter.  When he saw the man go in the house he hurried back to town and notified the officers.  They went as quickly as possible and found H. C. Wright, John and Charles Slaughter, who they arrested.  In the meantime there had been quite a number of arrests made of men who did not have a very good character.  The first three confessed and implicated the others, who had burned Bidwell's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">MASSACRE OF THE BIG MEADOWS INDIANS.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The Mill Creeks were always at outs with the Big Meadows Indians.  The summer of '64 they went to Big Meadows and made a raid on the Indian camp.  There were only three squaws in the camp, the mother and two daughters.  These they took prisoners.  One of the girls they cut open and strung her entrails in the road, the other girl they tied to a tree and burned.  The mother, Chief Big Foot claimed for his wife.  The squaw's name was Phoebe.  During the fight we had with the Mill Creeks, she crawled in a hole in the rocks and kept hid until it was over and we were gone, then she started south across the rough canyons and came to Lomo on the Chico and Humboldt road.  The Lomo hotel at that time was kept by Mr. Sprague.  He gave the squaw supper and breakfast and a bed.  The next morning she started for the Big Meadows.  She used to scrub and wash for Mrs. Hallam, who built the Hallam House in Chico.  When she got to the Big Meadows she went directly to Mrs. Hallam, who lived in the Big Meadows at that time.  Mrs. Hallam did not know her.  She said, "Don't you know me, Mrs. Hallam?"</P>
173.sgm:<P>Mrs. Hallam said, "No."</P>
173.sgm:<P>She said, "I am Phoebe."</P>
173.sgm:<P>Mrs. Hallam said, "I thought the Mill Creeks killed Phoebe."</P>
173.sgm:<P>She said, "No, they killed my two girls, and the Chief kept me for his wife.  White men shoot 'em all Mill Creeks.  I think I hide in hole in rocks."</P>
173.sgm:<P>After capturing the squaw and the baby, Good took a five dollar piece out of his pocket and asked the squaw in Indian "Cachem?"  She said, "Much, much."  But she would not tell where and we could not find it.  The squaw, Phoebe, said when they got back that she had to pack their money, watches and jewelry.  She said that it was in a buck skin bag, and it was all she could carry.  She said it was buried under the fire on the sandbar the morning of the fight.  This old squaw, Phoebe, now dead, has two sons living at Chester, Plumas county.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE MURDER OF HI GOOD.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>When I first met Hi. Good and R. A. Anderson, they were in the prime of life.  Good at that time was twenty-nine years old and as handsome a man as I ever saw.  I often heard it said that the Indians killed the girl he was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>In the early history of this state, when the law of the land was just at the stage where the right belonged to the strongest, and the Mill Creek Indians were a thorn in the side of the settlers, on account of their depredations, which at times amounted to murder, Hi. Good was one of the active leaders of the white men in their raids upon the Indians' strongholds.  A great deal of interesting local history clings to this early day character, a strong fearless man and a leader of men.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Good was born in Ohio.  His age I did not know, but when I first knew him he seemed to be about thirty-one or thirty-two years of age.  He was a tall, athletic fellow and very handsome, straight as an arrow and brave as a lion.  It was to him and R. A. Anderson that the people living in Butte and Tehama counties confided in when they wished their wrongs avenged, wrongs that had been committed by the Mill Creek Indians.  Good was one of the best Indian trailers in Northern California, and a dead shot.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Good's dramatic death and events which led up to it were as follows:</P>
173.sgm:<P>Good was in the sheep business and in need of a herder at the time I speak of.  Dan Sill, a friend of Good's had an Indian boy living with him in Tehama.  Good asked for the boy but Sill told him he had better not employ the Indian because he was a bad one and as sure as fate some day he would kill him.  Good laughed and said that he and the Indian would get along all right.</P>
173.sgm:<P>All went well until the spring of 1870.  Good sold a portion of his sheep for seven thousand dollars.  He had borrowed three thousand from Sam Gyle of Tehama.  This sum he paid after the sale and buried the four thousand dollars.  On the 27th of April Good and his boon companions, Sandy Young and Obe Fields, left on a prospecting trip.  They left with the purpose in view of finding the Mill Creeks and getting their booty as it was generally known that they had two or three thousand dollars.  When they started, Good told the Indian that he did not need to herd <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>The Indian knew Good had money buried and as soon as Good was gone he began hunting for it.  In his efforts to find it he tore up the cobble stone hearth in front of the fireplace and dug several places where he thought it might be.  He tore up some of the wood floor.  When Good returned on the 29th of April, he determined immediately from the condition of the house what had been going on.  The Indian had taken the ashes from the fireplace and given the hearth and floor a good scrubbing.  "What has been going on here, Ned?" asked Good.</P>
173.sgm:<P>"The place got so dirty I though I would clean it up a bit," said the Indian.  Good lived in Acorn Hollow at this time and had a fine ranch and garden on Deer Creek about one mile and a half south.  "I will go to the garden and get some vegetables," said Good.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Young came to Chico as soon as Good left.  The Indian said to Obe, "I will take his gun and see if I can kill some squirrels."  Obe being an elderly man sought the comfort of one of the beds and went to sleep.  He said he did not hear the Indian shoot and if he did he would not have remembered it as the Indian boy was always doing more or less shooting about the place.  Soon after the Indian came back and got supper.  Good, however, did not come.  After breakfast the next morning, Obe said, "I will saddle Bally (his horse) and see why he did not come home."  Instead of going the trail that led out of the hollow he led the horse up the steep hill back of the house to the rocky plain.  If he had gone the trail he would have probably found Good.  On reaching the garden, Obe inquired for Good and was told that he had left before sundown.  Obe returned the same way he had gone.  When he got back the Indian was on hand and had Good's horse, saying he found it back up the hollow tied to a tree.  Obe said that he would go to the picnic being held on Deer Creek.  Here he found Dan Delany and George Carter and a number of Good's best friends and they all started back.  In crossing the rocky plain, one of the party said, "Hold on, something has been dragged here."  Obe looked and said, "That is Buck's track."  They followed the direction of the shoe marks indicated and in a desolate ravine against a small tree they found the body of the stalwart, athletic Good, practically covered with rocks.</P>
173.sgm:<P>After leaving Good there the Indian went down to the Widow Lewis' place on Deer Creek.  Mrs. Lewis and her daughter were in the yard.  The Indian rode up and took a twenty dollar piece out of his pocket and said, "I will give this to see Hi. Good's boots."  Mrs. Lewis said, "What is the matter with Hi Good?"</P>
173.sgm:<P>The Indian said, "He is missing."  In showing the money <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>As soon as Good's body was found, one of the party went to Tehama to notify the coroner, while another came to Chico to notify Sandy Young.  Some of the party went to the camp and some stayed with the corps.  Finally the Indian came to camp.  They askd him about Hi.  He said he did not know anything about him and went outside and sat down on a bench and placed his head in his hands.  Obe went out and sat down alongside of the Indian.  Finally Obe asked the Indian where the first shot hit Hi.  The Indian said, "Through the hips," and then jumped up and caught Obe around the neck and said, "Don't tell them, or they will kill me."  Obe then went to the cabin door, where he met Young, who had arrived from Chico.  He said, "Ned killed Hi."</P>
173.sgm:<P>"How do you know?" asked Young.</P>
173.sgm:<P>"He told me," was the answer.</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Tell him to come in.  The Indian was asked by Sandy why he killed Hi.  The Indian replied that he didn't know, but he guessed to see how he would act.  Thereupon, Sandy began to cry.  Then the Indian told how he had hid behind the big oak tree and as Hi. came down the trail leading his horse by the long bridle reins and singing, he shot him and as he staggered down the hill he shot him twice, all three bullets going true, as the Indian was a good shot.  Then Sandy said, "Take the Indian up the trail and we will see how he will act."  They tied the Indian's hands behind him, took him up the trail and tied him to the limb of an oak tree.  Sandy went about sixty feet away and turned and fired, the bullet struck the Indian in the back of the neck, he fell and quivered.  They cut him loose and he died.  His bones lay there for two years.  Brother Jake and I used to drive the cattle by them.  Two young students from Colusa came and took the skeleton away.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Good is buried in the Tehama cemetery.  Sandy sent Good's gold watch to his father in Ohio.  Good always buried his money, as there were no banks in Northern California.  There are, I think, five hundreds holes dug around the cabin and corral by different parties, searching for the money.  It may have been found, but not that I know of.</P>
173.sgm:<P>My brother and I could not find out if there was a monument at Good's grave, so we went to Tehama three years ago.  We found the grave and a marble slab stating that he died, May 4th, 1870, aged 34 years.  This closes the chapter of one of California's Grand Men.</P>
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173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">OTHER DEPREDATIONS BY MILL CREEK INDIANS.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>In 1862 they robbed the George Senedeker home, taking his rifle and three hundred dollars in cash.</P>
173.sgm:<P>They robbed the Alpaugh place of seven head of fine horses, drove them to Mill Creek and cut their throats.</P>
173.sgm:<P>In August, 1862 they waylaid and killed two miners on the North Fork of the Feather River.</P>
173.sgm:<P>They stole two of Bob Anderson's horses and set his barn on fire.  After a long chase the horses were recovered and one of the Indians wounded.  It was learned later that the wounded Indian died of his injuries in June of that year, 1863.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Later a band of these same Indians made a raid on Mr. Gore's ranch and stole all his horses.  R. A. Anderson, Tom Gore and Jack Powers started in pursuit.  They succeeded in recovering the horses and Anderson, single handed, killed seven of the Indians and wounded two.</P>
173.sgm:<P>On the thirteenth of April, 1865, a band of this same tribe descended on the Moore home on Mud Creek, which they robbed of over a thousand dollars, after having killed old Grandma Moore.  Before leaving they set the house on fire and burned the body of Mrs. Moore up in her own home.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">REMINISCENCES OF GENERAL AND MRS. BIDWELL</HI>
173.sgm:<P>I knew Mr. Bidwell from 1863 up to the time of his death and Mrs. Bidwell from the time she came to Chico in 1868, the bride of General Bidwell, at that time Major Bidwell.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bidwell was a very handsome lady and the better acquainted one got with her the better she looked.  Bidwell in the early days was very generous to the emigrants, most of whom when they came to his ranch were practically broke.  He would give them beef and would assist them until they could get employment or take up land and get a start.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Bidwell was very generous in giving land and helping in every way toward the schools in Chico.  If a school site was wanted Bidwell gave the land gratis and every church, nearly, in Chico, he gave the land to build on.  When the Normal school contest came, Oroville, Marysville and other places in Northern California wanted it in their town.  The place selected for it had to furnish the land free of charge.  At that time Bidwell was in Europe, so the committee, that was trying to get it located at Chico cabled him in regards to a site for it.  He answered immediately,  "Take ten acres of my land anywhere, just so you don't put it in my door yard," and Chico got the school.  He gave the park to Chico and planted those large trees.  I have often said, Bidwell left his monument on the road leading out of Chico to the mountains, as he made the grades around the steep hill, which makes it one of the best roads over the mountains.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Mr. Bidwell was a great prohibitionist.  In 1892 he was a candidate for the presidency on the prohibition ticket, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bidwell was charitable and there are hundreds of her charitable acts which will never be known.  It did not matter what the city of Chico needed, if it was for the betterment of the town, she was always willing to aid, and those who were worthy and in need were never turned away.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bidwell took a great interest in bettering the living conditions of the Indians.  She built homes for them and tried to Christianize them.  There is a rancheria on the Bidwell estate and it is deeded to the Indians, each one having his house and lot.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bidwell gave three acres in the rear of the Normal School and the Children's Play Ground adjoining.  She gave to the city of Chico 2,302 acres for a park.  This takes in a great deal of very rich land and extends into the foot hills along Iron Canyon.  In this park stands the Sir Joseph Hooker Oak, the largest oak tree in the world.  The dimensions of Hooker Oak are:--101 feet high; circumference 28 feet 2 inches; spread of branches north and south 147 feet; circumference of outside branches, 446 feet; lineal measurement of largest south branch, 105 feet; diameter of trunk, 8 feet from ground, 9 feet; estimated age 1,000 years; number of persons, allowing 2 feet to the person, who can stand under the tree, 7,885.  This park is such a beautiful place it has to be seen to be appreciated.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE POET, BLACK BART</HI>
173.sgm:<P>On the 26th of July 1878, if I remember correctly, Black Bart robbed the Oroville and Quincy Stage.  Whenever he robbed a stage he took the express box, and always left a piece of poetry.  At that time Sam Daniels was sheriff of Butte county, and when he got to the scene of the holdup he found this piece of poetry-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>`I've labored hard for bread, for honor and for riches,<LB>But on my toes too long you've tread, you long haired<LB>S. of A B's.<LB>Let come what will, I'll try it on,<LB>My condition can't be worse,<LB>And if there is money in that box,<LB>'This money in my purse."</HI>
173.sgm:<P>Signed: Black Bart, the Po8.</P>
173.sgm:<P>I never knew his name, other than Black Bart, in those days, but since learned it was Bolton.  He was caught and sent to prison and when his prison term expired, the express company hired him, gave him a yearly salary to not rob any more.  He never had a partner but always went it alone.</P>
173.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">MEMORIES OF FIFTY YEARS AGO.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>On May 8th, 1869, the last spike was driven connecting the Union Pacific and the Central Pacific Railways, completing the transcontinental line from California east.  The spike was of California gold and the hammer of Nevada silver.  The tie was bored and driven by Leland Stanford, the President of the Central Pacific Road.  The telegraph wires were cut and the ends attached to the handle of the hammer and every telegraph station of importance heard every strike of the hammer as far east as New York. The spike was drawn and given to Stanford.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Stanford went into the proposition of building the Central Pacific by the inducement of the government.  He was worth twenty thousand dollars and when he died he was worth thirty-five million.  He was afterwards elected Governor of California and twice elected United States Senator.  The second time he was elected U.S. Senator he spent over six hundred thousand dollars.  He hired Tom Fitch, the silver tongued orator, to go with him and do the speaking.  Tom Fitch was the finest orator I ever heard.  He could sway his audiences to tears or laughter at will.  In those days United States Senators were elected by the Legislators and if a man was lucky enough to be elected to the Legislature he generally came back fixed.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Stanford traveled over the state and spent money  as free as water.  He hired large halls and brass bands.</P>
173.sgm:<P>He finally purchased the old Peter Lassen grant and stocked it with the finest thoroughbred horses and cattle in the world.  The prices he paid for some were enormous.  One of the fastest horses Stanford raised was Azoat.  He was sold for one hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars.  Another was Sunol, who at three years old trotted a half mile in one minute and two seconds.  She was sold to Robert Bonner and son of New York, for one hundred and six thousand dollars.  He took great pride in his horses and when shipped East were in express cars.</P>
173.sgm:<P>He then planted the largest vineyard in the world.  It consisted of five thousand acres.  He built a winery covering two acres.  I have been through it.  It was built of brick, the floor was concrete.  There were tanks of the choicest wines of different kinds, always on tap for visitors.</P>
173.sgm:<P>His herd of Holstein cattle was the largest in the world.  The ranch consisted of thirty-five thousand acres of valley land and a large tract of pasture land and twenty thousand sheep.  It is said Stanford did more for the upbuilding of the dairying business in California than any other man.</P>
173.sgm:<P>In the early days of California the mines in Shasta county were very rich and the only way the miners had of sending their gold dust to the mint, was by express.  The stages carried the express and the express company hired messengers.  There was always one and sometimes two on every stage.  These messengers were brave, reckless fellows and were paid big wages to guard the treasure as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>One time the stage going south from Chico, had gone about four miles from Chico and had crossed a small stream.  As the driver got to the top of the bank three men stepped out of the brush and covered the driver and messenger with their guns and ordered them to halt.  One kept the messenger covered and the other two ordered the messenger to get out.  They lined up and robbed them.  They then took the express box and ordered the driver to drive on.  They made a very rich haul as the box had a great many thousands of dollars in it.  They then took their horses and rode to the Coast Range mountains, where they divided what they had.  One went to San Francisco and spent his on wine and women.  The other spent his in Sacramento.  The third went to Idaho and went into the cattle business.  He prospered and his neighbors thought a great deal of him, as he was always square in a deal, and if a neighbor wanted an accommodation he was always ready to grant it.  If a settler came in that was poor he was always ready to assist him.  He finally took sick and died.  Just before he died he made a confession and told all, how his pals had spent their booty and how he had got his start.  His neighbors were almost unable to believe that such an upright, honorable man, had at one time been a robber.  But as he gave a perfect description of robbing the stage after it left Chico, they had to believe it was so.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE MURDER OF SUSAN McDONALD.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>Susan McDonald was murdered in Cherokee June 1st, 1871.  Cherokee Flat at that time was a great hydraulic mining camp and quite a number of Austrians were employed.  There was one by the name of George.  Austrian George was the name he went by.  Tom McDonald was treasurer of Butte county at that time and was nominated for office the second time.  This Austrian George had a great influence among the Austrians employed there.  Quite a number were naturalized and were voters, so one day McDonald told George if he could get the Austrians to vote for him, he would give him Susan.  This was in a joke.  Mr. and Mrs. McDonald had just the one child, Susan.  She was very handsome, a fine musician and highly educated.  The Austrian would try to talk to her whenever he could.  She, of course, would not have anything to do with him.  On the night of June 1st, 1871, there was a wedding at the Glass home in Cherokee.  Susan was invited, and went.  After the wedding they had a dance.  At three o'clock in the morning Doctor Sawyer and Clara Glass started to take Susan home.  The road was lined with brush in places.  The Austrian was hidden behind a chaparral bush and as they passed it he sprang out behind them and caught Susan by the top of her head.  He had a large butcher knife, sharpened to a razor edge and cut her throat.  She dropped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>The miners started out in all directions to find the murderer.  One went to the Bidwell Bar bridge, and notified the bridge tender to be on the lookout for him.  The bridge tender's name was Bendle.  Just after the miner had gone, Bendle saw a man coming on the bridge.  He knew it was the Austrian by the description that had been given him.  As the Austrian went by he told him to stop.  The murderer started to run.  Bendle stepped in the house, which was built on the bridge, grabbed his rifle and shot.  The Austrian dropped and died instantly.  It is twelve miles from Bidwell's Bar to Oroville and twelve miles from Oroville to Cherokee Flat.  They got a team and wagon and took the murderer to Oroville and then to Cherokee.  When they got there the miners had poured coal oil all over his cabin.  They jerked him out of the wagon and threw him in it and poured coal oil all over him and set it afire and burned him up.  This was one of the most brutal murders in Butte county.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">TRY TO IMITATE THE WHITES</HI>
173.sgm:<P>One time, when coming out of the mountains with cattle Johnny Morris hired an Indian to help drive.  On the road Morris found a box of talcum powder.  He was smelling of it when the Indian came up and wanted to know what it was.  Morris told him it was what the white ladies used when they went to dances and parties.  The Indian then smelled of it and wanted to know where he could get some.  Morris answered "at any drug store," and wanted to know why he wanted it.  The Indian answered, saying "I want heap lot, so keep squaw from smellin' like Indian."</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">STUDENTS GET AN OLD INDIAN TO TALK.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The Indians of the Big Meadows country were peaceable.  There was one very old Indian by the name of Salem, living near Chester and one day three University students engaged him in conversation.  They asked him innumerable questions.  They wanted to know how old he was and he said he didn't know.  Then they asked him who was the first white man he had ever seen and he said, "Peter Lassen."</P>
173.sgm:<P>They continued to ask questions, but finalaly the old Indian stopped talking and they could not get him to answer another question.  Finally he said "you come to my camp tomorrow and I talk."  So the next day they went to the old Indian's camp and began asking questions, but the old man did not answer.  Then they asked why he would not talk and he answered, "Give me five dollars and I talk."  They gave him the money and he sure did talk, telling more about the Indians than had happened in a hundred years.  They sure got their money's worth.</P>
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173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>My brother and I lived in Plumas county for a number of years, and as we had to go to Quincy, the county seat, occasionally, we got to know all about the Bear Indian.  He walked on all fours and when he rose up he rose just like a bear.  He could not talk but would grunt and point to what he wanted.  His mother could tell what he wanted.  The other Indians wanted to kill him when he was little but the mother kept watch over him and would not let them kill him.  He had hair all over him, not very thick, but a great deal more than the average person, and a tail about one and one-half inches long.</P>
173.sgm:<P>If a person with a team met him in the road coming on all fours the gentlest team of horses would run away and he would not give the road until forced to.  He got many a good drubbing for this.  There was a gentleman living in Quincy, by the name of Bell, who tried to get the Indian to take him to San Francisco and exhibit him.  The squaw, his mother, did not want to let him go, but Bell and his friends who had influence with his mother, finally got her consent.  Bell took him to San Francisco and put him on exhibition.  One morning Bell went to get him and he was gone, so he telegraphed all over the state and offered a reward, and the second day he heard of him in Los Angeles.  Two young fellows had stolen him.  Bell went to Los Angeles and got him and put him on exhibition again in San Francisco.  Woodward, at that time, was running the Woodward gardens in San Francisco; he tried to get him from Bell but they could not agree on a price, so Woodward had Bell arrested for exhibiting a monstrosity.  Bell was fined five hundred dollars as it was against the law.  Bell paid his fine and brought the Bear Indian home.  The other Indians did not like to talk about him.  I asked one of the Indians what had become of him and he said, "Bear Indian dead, go Hell."  This Indian's father was killed by a bear.  This account can be verified by the sheriff of Lassen county, Mr. James Church, who was raised at Quincy and all the old timers of Quincy.  Mr. Crane living here told me he saw him when he was exhibited at the fair at Petaluma by Mr. Bell.  Mr. Church told me the mother of the Bear Indian used to wash for his mother.  Their camp was against the hill back of his father's ranch.  I think this is the greatest curiosity I ever knew.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Let me live in a house by the side of the road, where the race of men go by.  Some are good, some are bad, some are weak, some are strong, some are foolish; so am I.  Then why should one sit in the scorner's seat or hurl the cynic's ban; let me live in a house by the side of the road, and be a friend to man.</P>
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173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE HANGING OF TOM NOAKS.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>In the month of July, 1881, a man by the name of Jack Crum was murdered by Tom Noaks.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Mr. Crum and his family had moved to the Big Meadows where they were spending the summer.  He and his son Frank rented the Spanish Ranch on Butte Creek.  On this particular day they were coming to Chico with a load of pears.  There was an old lady living just out of Chico on the west side of the road, that is now Park avenue.  She was doing the washing for Mr. Crum and his son and as they were coming by her place, she was in the yard, and Mr. Crum asked her if she would take a box of pears and let it go on the wash bill.  She said she would.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Mr. Crum took one of the boxes of pears and started toward the house, when he was met by Noaks.  Noaks said, "Crum why did you tell them dam lies about my dead brother?"  Mr. Crum said, "I never told anything about your brother.  I did not know him."  Then Noaks knocked Crum down.  Crum being a small old man and Noaks a young man weighing nearly 200 pounds, in the prime of life.  As soon as Crum fell Noaks jumped on him, commenced stamping his face with his heavy boots and continued stamping till Crum was dead.  Then Noaks went up town and tried to borrow five dollars from Albert Allen to pay his fine.  He told Allen he had just whipped a man in Chapmantown.  In a few minutes news came that he had killed Crum.  Immediately Noaks was arrested and locked in jail.  Some of the old timers who had known Crum for years went to Miller's store and bought a rope and went to the jail, intent on hanging Noaks.  The officers met them with drawn revolvers and kept them back.  The officers then secreted Noaks and took him to Oroville and locked him in the iron tank in the old jail.</P>
173.sgm:<P>F. A. Sprague was sheriff.  He and his deputies thought best to have the jail guarded.  They kept the jail guarded for about three weeks, then Mr. Crum's nephew, Freem Crum, and an old friend of the family, went to Oroville.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Here they met one of the jailors.  The three went in a saloon and the jailor asked the barkeeper for a pencil and a sheet of paper; it was given him and he went to the farther end of the bar and made some marks on it, folded it up and gave it to Crum and his friend.  They bade the jailor goodbye and opened the paper and there was the plot of the jail, the doors to go through to reach the iron tank.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Crum and his pal went to Chico and reported the jail was not guarded and showed the paper given them by the jailor.  Old friends of Crum then planned to take justice in their own hands, as J. A. Gifford, who was District Attorney at that time, said manslaughter was all the charge that could be brought against Noaks, as he had not used a deadly weapon.</P>
173.sgm:<P>On August twelfth, about eight o'clock in the evening, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>When the Chico people came to Feather river, they all left their teams on the north side of the river, except one, driven by a Chico man.  The main bridge crossing the river was being repaired and the people of Oroville had graded a road down a ravine and put in a pontoon bridge.  It crossed the river back of Chinatown.</P>
173.sgm:<P>George F. C. Peterson was the captain.  He detailed four men to guard the bridge, two at each end and told them not to let any one cross the bridge, going or coming.  The bridge had a railing, so the two men on the north end took one of the top rails off and put it across the first span.  Just then they heard a buggy coming down the grade.  One of the men said, "I will bet it is Sheriff Sprague."  His pal said, "If it is, he can't cross that bridge."  The old man ran up the bank and hollered, "Stop, you can't cross the bridge."  They were driving a spirited team and when they came to the foot of the grade, the man there thought they could not stop, so he caught the near horse by the head and swung them around.  One of the men said, "We are Chico."  "Make us know it."  He said, "Williams of the Hubbard and Earl Hardware store."  "Who is the other?"  He said, "Lou."  "Lou, what?"  "Lou Gifford."</P>
173.sgm:<P>He was the District Attorney's brother.  They wanted to take the team across but they would not let them, so they crossed afoot.  Just after they had gone, here came a man from the Oroville side.  He was asked how he got by the guards on the other end of the bridge.  He said, he knew one of them, but he was told he could not go any farther.  He then said, "Well if I can't go home, I will go back to town.  He was told he could not go back to town.  He then asked, "What is going on?"  "We are not at liberty to tell.  You will not be harmed.  All you have to do is to stay here," said Pal.  He sat down and after awhile said, "my wife will be very uneasy if I don't get home.  I live over here by the hospital.  My name is Armstrong."  So Pal told him if he would pledge his word and honor that he had not seen anyone here he could go.</P>
173.sgm:<P>When Peterson and his crowd got to the court house, he told a part of his men to guard the court house yard, and three men to get the jailor.  They rapped on the jail door.  The jailor, Sam Knowles, asked what do you want?  One said, "we have got a prisoner from Biggs.  He opened the door part way and they rushed in and sat him in a chair and told him if he made an attempt to give an alarm, they would tie and gag him.  He said he would be quiet.  They then asked for the keys.  He said he did not have them.  One of the three stepped to the door and told Peterson.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<P>When Noaks heard them, he said, "The first man that comes in that door I will kill him with the heel of my boot."  They then put one jimmy in the door jam above the lock and one below the lock, with two men pulling on each end of the jimmys.</P>
173.sgm:<P>The captain then told Aaron Burt and Jim Fritter to break the lock.  One of them was left handed and the other right handed, then the noise began.  It could be heard all over Oroville and I think three miles up Feather river canyon.  One man held a lantern on the lock so they could see where to strike and when the lock broke the door swung back.  There stood Noaks in the farther end of the cell.  The Captain said, "take him."  Four men grabbed him and tied his hands behind him and led him out to the wagon.  One of the three who took the jailor went up and cut the bell rope so the jailor could not give the alarm until they had Noaks away.  A box had been put in the wagon back of the seat; he was made to sit on it and his hands tied to the iron braces, one on each side of the wagon.</P>
173.sgm:<P>As soon as Knowles could get up to the bell, he began ringing it.  Some of the Oroville people went to the court house and Knowles told them, Noaks had been taken.  They went to the pontoon bridge and looked in the river and went home.</P>
173.sgm:<P>As soon as Noaks was safely across the river, they started for Dry Creek.  When they got there the rope and noose were all ready.  The wagon was driven under it.  He was asked if he had anything to say.  Then he began to beg.  He said, "You people do not know the right of it and he thought the act was too hasty.  He was asked if he had any relatives.  He said, "A sister in Texas."</P>
173.sgm:<P>The Chico crowd then started for home.  They met the sheriff about a mile out of Chico.  He stopped and asked, "Where have you fellows been?"  One of the men said, "a fishing."</P>
173.sgm:<P>"What did you do with your fish?"</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Hung them up to dry."</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Where?"  "On Dry Creek?"</P>
173.sgm:<P>"Why didn't you hang them two Chinamen while you were about it?"</P>
173.sgm:<P>The Captain wrote to Noaks' sister but did not receive an answer.</P>
173.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE FAILURE.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>(By W. H. Gilliand.) <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Did we but stand alone in that man's place,<LB>Had we but trod the path whereon he fell,<LB>Had we known the cares of life that line his face<LB>And dim his eyes and darken soul as well,<LB>Perhaps then we would wish for caverns deep,<LB>That we might pass within to silent sleep.<LB>If we had seen what snares beset his way,<LB>What dreams of youth had into darkness passed,<LB>Had left the tempters lure, our reason sway<LB>Or seen life's dearest hopes caught in the blast,<LB>Might we not then, with weakness, sin and fall,<LB>And pray that darkness come and cover all,<LB>Much better, with kind words, we light his way,<LB>For budded in that soul perhaps may be<LB>Thought that will blossom into life one day,<LB>And fill some lonely heart with melody.<LB>Let's not with mocking sneers, his hopes appall,<LB>Perchance we too along life's way may fall.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>Copied from Daily Press.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">A MAN'S PRAYER.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>(By Post Office Clerk.) <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Let me live, Oh Mighty Master,<LB>Such a life as men should know,<LB>Tasting triumph and disaster,<LB>Joy--and not too much of woe;<LB>Let me fight and love and laugh,<LB>And when I'm beneath the clover<LB>Let this be my epitaph.<LB>Here lies one who took his chances<LB>In the busy world of men;<LB>Battled luck and circumstances,<LB>Fought and fell and fought again<LB>Won sometimes, but did no crowing,<LB>Lost sometimes, but didn't wail.<LB>Took his beating, but kept going,<LB>Never let his courage fail.<LB>He was fallible and human,<LB>Therefore loved and understood<LB>Both his fellow men and women,<LB>Whether good or not so good,<LB>Kept his spirit undiminished,<LB>Never lay down on a friend,<LB>Played the game till it was finished,<LB>Lived a sportsman to the end.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>Copied from Daily Press.</P>
173.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
173.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE LAND OF BEGINNING AGAIN.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>(By Louisa Fletcher Tarkington.) <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I wish that there were some wonderful place<LB>Called the Land of Beginning Again.<LB>Where all our mistakes, and all our heartaches,<LB>And all of our poor, selfish grief<LB>Could be dropped like a shabby old coat at the door,<LB>And never be put on again.<LB>I wish we could come on it all unaware,<LB>Like the hunter who finds a lost trail;<LB>And I wish that the one whom our blindness has done<LB>The greatest injustice of all,<LB>Could be at the gates, like an old friend waits<LB>For the comrade he's gladdest to hail.<LB>We would find all the things we intended to do<LB>But forgot, and remembered too late,<LB>Little praises unspoken, little promises broken,<LB>And all the thousand and one<LB>Little duties neglected that might have perfected<LB>The day for one less fortunate.<LB>It wouldn't be impossible to be kind,<LB>In the Land of Beginning Again;<LB>And the ones we misjudged and the ones whom we grudged<LB>Their moments of victory here,<LB>Would find in the grasp of our loving handclasp<LB>More than penitent lips could explain.<LB>For what has been hardest we'd know had been best,<LB>And what had seemed loss would be gain,<LB>For there isn't a thing that will not take wing<LB>When we've faced it and laughed it away;<LB>And I think that the laughter is most what we're after<LB>In the Land of Beginning Again.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>Copied from Daily Press.</P>
173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE AMERICAN SOLDIER.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>The American soldier was taken from every walk of life, most of them from good comfortable homes.  They were not accustomed to the hardships of war, yet when they were pitted against the seasoned army of Germany they proved to the world the American soldier had no equal.  What they accomplished was dauntless and imperishable; there was no task allotted to them, no service so great but they had the courage to meet it.  Hot or cold, hungry or full, wet or dry, they never winced, whimpered or begged.  We are too near those marvelous deeds to fully appreciate them, but a century from now, after I am gone and forgotten, those deeds will be recorded in history as long as American history is written, and every page will add its laurel and every chapter its bright and shining star will be placed high in the record of the American soldier.  --By SIM MOAK.</P>
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173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE LAST LEAF.</HI>
173.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>I saw him once before,<LB>As he passed by the door,<LB>And again<LB>The pavement stones resound,<LB>As he totters o'er the ground<LB>With his cane.<LB>They say that in his prime,<LB>Ere the pruning-knife of Time,<LB>Cut him down,<LB>Not a better man was found<LB>By the Crier on his round<LB>Through the town.<LB>But now he walks the streets,<LB>And he looks at all he meets<LB>Sad and wan,<LB>And he shakes his feeble head,<LB>That it seems as if he said:<LB>They are gone.<LB>The mossy marbles rest,<LB>On the lips that he has prest<LB>In their bloom,<LB>And the names he loved to hear<LB>Have been carved for many a year<LB>On the tomb.<LB>My grandmamma has said, --<LB>Poor old lady, she is dead<LB>Long ago, --<LB>That he had a Roman nose,<LB>And his cheek was like a rose<LB>In the snow.<LB>But now his nose is thin,<LB>And it rest upon his chin<LB>Like a staff.<LB>And a crook is in his back,<LB>And a melancholy crack<LB>In his laugh.<LB>I know it is a sin<LB>For me to sit and grin<LB>At him here;<LB>But the old three-cornered hat,<LB>And the breeches, and all that,<LB>Are so queer!<LB>And if I should live to be<LB>The last leaf upon the tree<LB>In the Spring--<LB>Let them smile, as I do now,<LB>At the old forsaken bough<LB>Where I cling.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>--By Oliver Wendell Holmes--Copied from Daily Press.</P>
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173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">SENTIMENTS IN THE ROUGH.</HI>
173.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>When I am dead, don't lie like thieving whelps,<LB>Because, perhaps, you've some time heard it said,<LB>A little common bull or blarney helps<LB>To chase the shadows, when a fellow's dead,<LB>If you have any pretty things to say,<LB>That you believe will help man's soul to thrive,<LB>Just spiel it in a friendly kind of way<LB>To cheer some lucky guy that's still alive.<LB>While in life's game, you always used me white,<LB>I can't complain of other people's acts;<LB>So when I pass into the shades of night,<LB>Don't spoil it by exaggerating facts;<LB>But let your good intentions seek the goal<LB>Of hearts responsive, struggling o'er life's road;<LB>They bear no balm to a departed soul<LB>But may make lighter some tired brother's load.<LB>When I am dead, just save the sweet bouquet<LB>That you intend should wither on my grave,<LB>And use the money in some better way<LB>To cheer some heart that's striving to be brave.<LB>The flowers you've given me I have enjoyed,<LB>They made a fitting crown for living head;<LB>"Say it with flowers" of sense is sometimes void,<LB>It does not fit the language of the dead.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>--Chas. H. Stephen 32 deg., Oriental Consistory.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Copied from Daily Press.</P>
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173.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="bold">THE REAL FAILURES</HI>
173.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>If I fail to get rich I need not care<LB>For thousands die poor I know;<LB>Heaven isn't a place where the millionaires<LB>Only are allowed to go.<LB>I need not care if I fail to climb<LB>To the top, as some others do;<LB>I can die content any place or time<LB>If I haven't failed to be true.<LB>If I fail to be great, I'll worry not,<LB>For fame doesn't come tto all,<LB>And thousands and thousands the world forgot,<LB>The humble, the meek the small,<LB>All get to Heaven at their journey's end<LB>And comfort and glory find.<LB>Unafraid at the great white throne I'll bend<LB>If I haven't failed to be kind.<LB>These are the failures I have to fear--<LB>Not a failure to hoard up gold,<LB>Not a failure to rule and to govern here;<LB>For at last when my record's told<LB>For peace on earth I shall vainly sue,<LB>If here on earth with my fellow man<LB>I have failed to be kind and true.</HI>
173.sgm:<P>--Edgar A. Guest.</P>
173.sgm:<P>Copied from the Daily Press.</P>
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173.sgm:<illus entity="a173-0002" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Last Battle of the Mill Creeks From a painting by Jake Moak at the age of 76</P>
181.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-181</TITLE>
181.sgm:<TITLE>A picture of pioneer times in California, illustrated with anecdotes and stories taken from real life.  By William Grey [pseudonym]: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
181.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
181.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
181.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
181.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
181.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
181.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
181.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-830</LCCN>
181.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
181.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>17002</COPYRIGHT>
181.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>A PICTURE</P>
181.sgm:<P>OF</P>
181.sgm:<P>PIONEER TIMES</P>
181.sgm:<P>IN CALIFORNIA</P>
181.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATED WITH</P>
181.sgm:<P>ANECDOTES AND STORIES TAKEN</P>
181.sgm:<P>FROM REAL LIFE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>BY WILLIAM GREY.</P>
181.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">AUTHOR'S EDITION</HI>
181.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO:</P>
181.sgm:<P>PRINTED BY W. M. HINTON &amp; CO., 536 CLAY STREET.</P>
181.sgm:<P>1881.</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881, by</P>
181.sgm:<P>WILLIAM M. HINTON,</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington.</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>This book is respectfully dedicated to the boys and girls born on the Pacific Slope, of pioneer parents.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Its object is to draw a correct and faithful picture of pioneer times in California, and thus expose the misstatements of itinerant lecturers and thoughtless or vicious writers, who seem to delight in wholesale misrepresentation of the habits and character of the first American settlers of this coast.  The time has come when this matter should be discussed and set right; for the pioneers are fast passing away, and in a few short years not one will be left to contradict and expose the slanderous charges now constantly put forth against them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the picture I have drawn, I have sought to avoid claiming for the pioneers one virtue not fairly theirs; nor have I attempted to conceal their errors.  When speaking of individuals, I have tried to avoid undue praise or unjust censure.  How far I have succeeded in making my picture a truthful representation, I leave my fellow pioneers to judge.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The destinies of the great young States of the Pacific are fast passing into the hands of the children of the pioneers, and we, the parents, cheerfully resign our trust, feeling sure that the <HI REND="italics">amor patri&oelig;</HI>
181.sgm:<P>It is this ambition that has prompted the writing of this volume.  It is directly addressed to our young people; but I hope it will be found attractive and interesting to every American citizen, and especially so to all our pioneers, who, day by day, as the shades of evening fall on their path, and their numbers lessen, grow nearer and nearer to each other, and more and more attached to all the recollections of the days when, as a band of brothers they, with cheerful hearts, faced every danger, side by side, and aroused into life this whole Pacific Coast.</P>
181.sgm:<P>If my fellow pioneers find that I have performed the task I assigned myself but indifferently, I hope they will at least credit a good intention and an earnest endeavor to the author.</P>
181.sgm:<P>WILLIAM GREY</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>"THE ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO"--THEIR UNPARDONABLE ERRORS--THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS--THE GOOD THEY ACCOMPLISHED--THEIR GREAT WEALTH--INFLUENCE UPON THE INDIANS--THE TRADUCERS OF THE MISSION FATHERS--MR. DWINELLE'S ADDRESS AT THE CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION OF THE FOUNDING OF THE MISSION DOLORES--MISS SKIDMORE'S POEM.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the year 1854, when the duration of the American rule in California was yet but little over five years, three well known citizens, then residing in San Francisco, wrote and published a book entitled "The Annals of San Francisco," and dedicated it to the "Society of California Pioneers."  This book was neither more nor less than a caricature of the manners and habits of the early American settlers of this coast.  We all knew of its grave misrepresentations, and looked upon it with contempt, not only for that, but because it was plainly got up to puff individuals mostly unworthy, and because it was written in a style of bold, immoral bravado, that was disgusting to all true Californians.  Notwithstanding this, it was for a time widely circulated, and read almost without adverse comment, for in the rush and excitement of those days no one had time to attack it and expose its true character.  It had its run; and, as is the case with all such books, it soon dropped out of sight.  Its publication and its fate, however, prevented any attempt by others to write a more faithful history of the times; so that to-day it remains the only book claiming to be a regular, authentic history of the pioneer times in California.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>As I have said, it was dedicated to the Society of California Pioneers, and they never repudiated the dedication.  The book, therefore, went forth with their indorsement.  This gave it a standing it never could have had otherwise.  As the Society of California Pioneers is of the very first respectability, each individual member is supposed to be a competent witness to the truth of its assertions.  This criminal neglect by the society, in not repudiating the dedication, was most serious in its consequences; for, although the book is very seldom met with in private libraries, we find it constantly quoted by lecturers and writers on California, as first class authority.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In this volume I do not pretend to give a regular history of pioneer times in California; but simply a <HI REND="italics">picture</HI>
181.sgm:<P>In many instances the "Annals" give the facts of history correctly, but the trouble is the authors are not satisfied to let the facts speak for themselves, when the impression given is opposed to their views and prejudices.  No; in such cases they do all they can to make "truth seem a lie," or vice versa, as may be agreeable to them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>For instance, let us take the history of the early Missions in California, just as it is recorded in the "Annals," without the comments, sneers and "reflections" of the authors themselves, and what do we find?  We find that, a little over one hundred years ago, in 1776, this beautiful State of ours lay almost asleep here on the Pacific slope, inhabited only by about seventy-five thousand Indians.  According to the "Annals," we find those Indians to be of the most degraded caste, making a precarious and miserable livelihood by hunting, fishing and collecting the acorns that are found on a sort of scrub oak in the mountain districts.  They were naked and houseless.  Then we find coming on the scene the Missionary Fathers, at first four in number, and according to the "Annals" men of wonderful energy, of surprising judgment, pious and virtuous--"pure in their lives, and faithful to their calling," they tell us.  They had nothing of self to work for.  Their lives were simple as frugality could make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>In 1825 the Mission Dolores, of this city, had 76,000 head of cattle, 950 tame horses, --breeding mares, 84 stud of choice breed, 820 mules, 79,000 sheep, 2,000 hogs, 456 yoke of working oxen, 18,000 bushels of grain, $35,000 worth of merchandise, and $25,000 in specie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In 1823 Santa Clara branded 29,400 calves as the year's increase, and owned 74,280 head of full-grown cattle, 407 yoke of working oxen, 82,540 sheep, 1,890 trained horses, 4,235 mares, 725 mules, 1,000 hogs, and $120,000 in goods.</P>
181.sgm:<P>San Jose had, in 1825, 3,000 Indians, 62,000 head of cattle, 840 tame horses, 1,500 mares, 420 mules, 310 yoke of oxen, and 62,000 sheep.</P>
181.sgm:<P>San Juan Batista, in 1820, owned 43,870 head of cattle, 1,360 tame horses, 4,879 mares, colts and fillies, 69,530 sheep, 321 yoke of working oxen, $75,000 in goods, and $20,000 in specie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In 1825, San Carlos branded 2,300 calves, and had 87,600 head of cattle, 1,800 horses and mares, 365 yoke of oxen, 5,400 sheep, much merchandise, and $40,000 in specie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Santa Cruz, in 1830, had 48,200 head of cattle, 3,200 horses and mares, 72,500 sheep, 200 mules, large herds of swine, and $25,000 worth of silver plate.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Soledad, in 1826, owned 36,000 head of cattle, 300 yoke of oxen, 70,000 sheep, and more horses and mares than any other Mission.  So rapidly did its horses increase that they were given away in order to preserve the pastures for cattle and sheep.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In 1822, San Antonio owned 52,800 head of cattle, 1,800 tame horses, 3,000 mares, 500 yoke of working oxen, 600 mules, 48,000 sheep, and 1,000 swine</P>
181.sgm:<P>San Miguel, in 1821, owned 91,000 head of cattle, 1,100 tame horses, 3,000 mares, 2,000 mules, 170 yoke of working oxen, and 47,000 sheep.</P>
181.sgm:<P>San Fernando, in 1826, owned 56,000 head of cattle, 1,500 horses and mares, 200 mules, 400 yoke of working oxen, 64,000 sheep, 2,000 swine, $50,000 in merchandise, and $90,000 in specie.  Its vineyards yielded 4,000 gallons of wine and brandy per annum.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In 1829, San Gabriel had 70,000 head of cattle, 1,200 horses, 3,000 mares, 400 mules, 120 yoke of working oxen, and 54,000 sheep.  Its annual income from wine was $12,000.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In 1826, San Luis Rey had 70,000 head of cattle, 2,000 horses, 140 yoke of tame oxen, and 68,000 sheep.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At one time San Luis Obispo had 80,000 head of grown cattle, 2,000 tame horses, 3,500 mares, 3,700 mules, and 72,000 sheep.</P>
181.sgm:<P>La Purissima, in 1830, had over 40,000 head of cattle, 300 yoke of working oxen, 2,600 tame horses, 4,000 mares, 30,000 sheep, and 5,000 swine.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Santa Inez, in 1820, owned $800,000 worth of property.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Santa Barbara, in 1828, had 40,000 head of cattle, 1,000 horses, 2,000 mares, 80 yoke of oxen, 600 mules, and 20,000 sheep.</P>
181.sgm:<P>San Buenaventura, in 1825, owned 37,000 head of cattle, 600 riding horses, 1,300 mares, 200 yoke of working oxen, 500 mules, 30,000 sheep, 200 goats, 2,000 swine, orchards, vineyards, $35,000 in foreign goods, $27,000 in specie, with church ornaments and clothing valued at $61,000.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The harvest of 1831 was:</P>
181.sgm:<P>Bushels of wheat<HSEP>62,860</P>
181.sgm:<P>Bushels of corn<HSEP>27,315</P>
181.sgm:<P>Bushels of beans and peas<HSEP>6,817</P>
181.sgm:<P>In what an absurd light this showing puts the sneers of the authors of the "Annals!"  Supposing these Indians to be of our own race and intelligence, could they have done much better, considering their numbers and the primitive sort of farming tools in their possession, and the total absence of farming machinery?</P>
181.sgm:<P>There is not one material fact cited in the whole account by the "Annals" affecting the character of the Missionary Fathers.  The picture of contentment, happiness and physical comfort this people present to our view is most charming, so much so that even the authors of the "Annals" themselves cannot help exclaiming: "The great beauty and peacefulness of such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:interview old men, who are there to be found even now, who lived at those Missions at the very time some of the Doctor's witnesses are said to have visited this coast, and ascertained from those <HI REND="italics">living witnesses</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Dr. Stillman's attack on the Missions is more wholesale than that of the "Annals," because the "Annals" give the facts of history, and those facts contradict their own assertions.  The Doctor tries to avoid this, and does avoid it, except in one instance.  On page 304 of his book he quotes from his great Catholic witness, La Yseronse, who says, "There <HI REND="italics">was no attempt made to teach them</HI>
181.sgm: [the natives] <HI REND="italics">the most common arts</HI>
181.sgm:.  Their grain was ground by women in the primitive Indian method."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:On page 315 the Doctor gets his Greek Catholic witness to tell us that when the Missionary rule ceased, "Not a solitary memorial of benefit conferred remained.  No mill, not even a blacksmith, and the commonest wants of civilized life were not supplied to mitigate the rigorous despotism."  Then, on page 320, in speaking of this same period, the Doctor calls up an English witness, who says: "They [the Indians] had been taught <HI REND="italics">in many of the arts, and there were, in almost every division, weavers, tanners, shoemakers, blacksmiths, carpenters, bricklayers and other artificers</HI>
181.sgm:<P>What now becomes of the Doctor's great Catholic witness, as quoted from page 304?  It surely cannot be that one whole division of Christendom lied.  This quotation from page 320 also puts the Greek Catholic division of Christendom in a very questionable light--in fact, it looks to me as if it let both these divisions out, as witnesses worthy of credit, particularly as we all, here in California, know, of our own knowledge, that the quotation from page 320 is true, and the other untrue.</P>
181.sgm:<P>But what is the use of further notice of such misrepresentations of the Missions as these of Dr. Stillman, who bases his accusations on such testimony as that of long since dead sailors who visited this coast only for a few days, and who were filled with national prejudices against the Missionaries and the nation to which they belonged, while he ignores or refuses, or neglects to hear, the testimony of witnesses, many of whom have not yet passed away from among us, and who flatly contradict the representations of those roving sea captains of long ago.</P>
181.sgm:<P>We cannot help feeling pity for men who allowed themselves to be so governed by their prejudices as to make them seek to rob the glorious dead of the good name they so fairly and justly won.  We should all be sure to have an authentic history of those wonderful Missions in our family library, and when our heart sickens, as it sometimes must, at the daily exhibitions all around us of selfish, cunning, plotting, hypocritical men, each trying to outreach and get the advantage of the other, crushing out, in their mad struggle with each other, all the teachings of Christianity, and all the natural benevolence of the human heart.  When every one, as he rushes by in his frantic pursuit of selfish, worldly joys, cries fool to him who is yet humane and unselfish, and who seeks, in the light of the teachings of the Cross, to share all with all.  Yes, when our faith is shaken by this disgusting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"The immediate results of the Mission scheme of christianization and colonization were such as to justify the plans of the wise statesmen who devised it, and to gladden the hearts of the pious men who devoted their lives to its execution.  At the end of sixty-five years (in 1834), the Missionaries of Upper California found themselves in the possession of twenty-one prosperous Missions, planted upon a line of about seven hundred miles, running from San Diego north to the latitude of Sonoma.  More than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"It was something, surely, that over thirty thousand wild, barbarous and naked Indians had been brought in from their savage haunts; persuaded to wear clothes; accustomed to a regular life; living in Christian matrimony; inured to such light labor as they could endure; taught a civilized language; instructed in music; accustomed to the service of the Church; partaking of its sacraments, and indoctrinated in the Christian religion.  And this system had become self-sustaining, under the mildest and gentlest of tutelage; for the Franciscan monks, who superintended these establishments, most of whom were from Spain, and many of whom were highly cultivated men--statesmen, diplomatists, soldiers, engineers, artists, lawyers, merchants and physicians before they became Franciscans--always treated the neophyte Indians with the most paternal kindness, and did not scorn to labor with them in the field, the brickyard, the forge and the mill.  When we view the vast constructions of the Mission buildings, including the churches, the refectories, the dormitories, the workshops, the granaries, and the rancherias--sometimes constructed with huge timbers brought many miles on the shoulders of the Indians--and look at the massive constructions at Santa Barbara, and the beautiful sculptures and ribbed stone arches of the church of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"But although the Missions, as such, were destroyed, although the Mission system thus disappeared and the body of the neophytes was absorbed in one general cataclysm of drunkenness, mendacity and disease, still some results remained, which were worth all that they cost.  Taking the number of 30,000 Indians, who resided in the Missions at the hight of their prosperity, and estimating the life of the average Indian as a short one, as it undoubtedly was, I calculate that during the sixty-five years of the prosperity of the Missions no less than 60,000 christianized Indians were buried in her <HI REND="italics">campos santos</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"I have not, on this occasion, uttered a word in praise of the Catholic Church.  If I had been one of her sons, I should have given her such a tribute, as full of gratitude as of truth.  But, as it is, this might seem like adulation, and she does not need to be patronized by me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>During the last fifteen years of the existence of the Missions, the Mexican population of California was considerably increased, and had become very influential with the home government.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"This new class of adventurers, characterized by the exuberance of their noses, their addiction to the social game called monte&acute;, and the utter fearlessness with which they encountered the monster aguadiente, were both constant and consistent in their denunciations of the monks who bad charge of the Missions.  They were accused of being avaricious, these poor monks who had taken the vow of perpetual poverty.  They were said to be indolent; they who roused themselves at the morning Angelus, Summer and Winter, and to whom the evening Angelus was only a signal that their evening task was only begun and not ended."</P>
181.sgm:<P>From this time forward there were two political parties in California--one sided with the Missionaries; the other sought their overthrow.  The anti-Mission party, as it might be termed, was finally and completely successful in 1845.  Then came a general scramble for the property belonging to the Missions, with a shameless disregard for the rights of the Indians.  They were robbed of everything--land and all, and sent adrift without a place to lay their heads.  The Mexicans divided up their lands among themselves, allowed the Indians to put miserable shanties in the neighborhood of the houses of the new owners of the land, and gave them employment at almost nominal wages.  Every Saturday night the pittance allowed them was paid--mostly in whiskey.  The consequence was, that the Indians lay drunk until Monday morning, when they were kicked out to work by their self-constituted masters.  When we came to California, in 1849, this was the almost universal condition of the Mission Indians.  Is it surprising, then, that the whole Indian community, once so industrious and happy, should, under this new system, have sunk to the lowest depths of degradation, and soon almost disappeared from the face of the earth.  Nor is it surprising that the community, the race who robbed and plundred these poor human beings, depriving them of their daily wages, and crowding them by scores, drunk, into their graves, should now themselves be fast passing away.  Yes; one by one, they disappear.  Where now are those Mexicans and Californians who in 1849 owned their four, five and ten league ranchos, and immense herds of stolen Mission cattle?  Yes; where are they now?  No one can answer, for no one knows.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:destruction of the Indians, which they accomplished, was only a fore-shadowing of their own fate.  I will conclude these remarks on the Missions by quoting Miss Skidmore's beautiful little poem, delivered at the Centennial celebration already spoken of:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>'Tis well to ring the pealing bells,<LB>And sing the joyous lay,<LB>And make this glad Centennial year<LB>One gleeful gala-day;<LB>For Freedom's sun, that floods the land<LB>With Summer's golden glow,<LB>Dawned brightly on the night of gloom<LB>One hundred years ago.<LB>And dwellers in this favored land,<LB>Beside the Western Sea,<LB>Be yours an added thrill of joy,<LB>A two-fold jubilee!<LB>For (sweet and strange coincidence)<LB>The bright, benignant glow<LB>Of Faith dispelled a deeper gloom,<LB>One hundred years ago.<LB>All honor to our noble sires--<LB>The tried and true-souled band--<LB>Whose valor loosed the Gordian knot<LB>That bound their native land!<LB>Who crushed the tyrant's haughty host<LB>And laid his standard low,<LB>And bade the Starry Banner wave,<LB>One hundred years ago!<LB>All honor, too, and deathless fame<LB>Unto the brown-robed band,<LB>Whose hands released from fetters dread<LB>Our glorious Golden Land!<LB>Who gained a bloodless victory<LB>Against the demon foe,<LB>And lifted high the Cross of Faith,<LB>One hundred years ago!<LB>The sons of Francis journeyed far<LB>From wave-washed Monterey,<LB>To labor where his saintly name<LB>Had blessed our shining Bay.<LB>And well those holy toilers wrought<LB>To bid Faith's harvests glow<LB>And Truth's sweet vineyards ripen fair,<LB>One hundred years ago,</HI>
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181.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">Nor San Francisco saw alone<LB>That fondly toiling band;<LB>Their Missions blest full many a spot<LB>Within our favored land.<LB>And Peace Divine, at their behest,<LB>Here arched her Sacred Bow<LB>From North to South, from East to West.<LB>One hundred years ago.<LB>And not alone <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
181.sgm: chosen clime<LB>Obeyed this meek control;<LB>In Earth's remotest realms they wrought<LB>To tame the savage soul.<LB>From many a land that wondrous band<LB>Had chased the fiendish foe,<LB>Long ere they won meek Conquest here,<LB>One hundred years ago.<LB>How blest the Children of the Wild<LB>Beneath their gentle sway!<LB>Not theirs the harsh command that bids<LB>The trembling slave obey.<LB>Not theirs the stern, despotic tone,<LB>The tyrant's cruel blow;<LB>By love the meek Franciscans ruled,<LB>One hundred years ago.<LB>Ah! well the ransomed savage loved<LB>The kind, paternal care<LB>That with his simple joys could smile,<LB>And in his sorrows share;<LB>That could the blessed Baptism give,<LB>The Bread of Life bestow,<LB>And cheer the darksome vale of Death,<LB>One hundred years ago.<LB>Within the rude adobe&acute; shrine,<LB>What holy calmness dwelt!<LB>How fervent was the savage throng<LB>That round its altar knelt!<LB>How lowly bowed the dusky brows,<LB>When, through the sunset glow,<LB>Rang out the sweet-toned Angelus,<LB>One hundred years ago!<LB>Pure, Eden-like simplicity,<LB>Forever passed away!<LB>For, o'er the Missions came at last<LB>A fierce, tyrannic sway;</HI>
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181.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">And sacrilegious hands could dare<LB>To strike, with savage blow,<LB>The band that brought Salvation's boons,<LB>One hundred years ago.<LB>But we, who know how rich the gift<LB>That holy band bestowed<LB>Upon the land where stranger hosts<LB>Since made their fair abode;<LB>Aye, we who hail the beams of Faith<LB>In radiant noonday glow,<LB>Will fondly bless the dawn that rose<LB>One hundred years ago.<LB>O Sovereign City of the West!<LB>Enthroned in royal state,<LB>Where bows the Bay his shining crest<LB>Within thy Golden Gate!<LB>Thou'lt ne'er forget, though o'er thy heart<LB>Vast living currents flow,<LB>The herald steps that trod thy soil,<LB>One hundred years ago!<LB>And, though the lofty steeples rise<LB>From many a sunlit hill,<LB>Where through the air, at dusk and dawn,<LB>The sweet bell-voices thrill,<LB>Thou'lt fondly prize thy Mission shrine,<LB>For o'er its portal low<LB>First rose the Cross and rang the chime<LB>One hundred years ago!<LB></HI>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>"REFLECTIONS" OF THE "ANNALS"--THE FUTURE OF THE AMERICAN REPUBLIC--OUR TRUE POLICY--THE LONDON TIMES AND THE CIVIL WAR</P>
181.sgm:<P>The authors of the "Annals," in closing their history of the Missions, on page 54 of that book, give us some of their "reflections" as to the future of the American nation, which we find hard to pass without comment.  That the manifest destiny of this nation of ours is to gather under the protection of its wise and benign government every foot of territory of this great continent, no reflecting person can question.  That all the inferior and weak races now found on it are destined to pass away and disappear, there is not a shadow of doubt.  But how is this to come to pass?  The "Annals" talk as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Indians, Spaniards of many provinces, Hawaiians, Japanese, Chinese, Malays, Tartars and Russians must all give place to the resistless flood of Anglo-Saxon or American progress.****</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The English in India have already shown how a <HI REND="italics">beginning</HI>
181.sgm: may be made; the Americans on the California coasts and <HI REND="italics">farther west</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Even while we write its extensive dominions are being separated by a widespread and hitherto successful rebellion into detached kingdoms, under the sway of military chiefs.  These, standing alone, and mutually jealous of their conquering neighbors, <HI REND="italics">may be easily played off one against another</HI>
181.sgm: by a white people skilled enough to take advantage of the circumstances, and direct the moves of the political chess-board.  So it was with the English in India, and so it may be with the Americans in China.  Only give us <HI REND="italics">time</HI>
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181.sgm:<P>"Long before that time, the English and American people will have finished the last great struggle, which must some day take place between them, for the commercial and political supremacy of the world.  It is more than probable that the hosts of English from India and Americans from California will meet on the rich and densely-populated plains of China, and <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Are we American republicans to acquire territory in this way?  Are we to do, as they say the English have done, cross the wide ocean in quest of conquest and booty, embroiling simple and unsuspecting nations in feuds and wars--"playing off one against another," in the way the authors of the "Annals" so much admire--until these people become an easy prey to pillage and robbery, with cruelty beyond belief?</P>
181.sgm:<P>My young readers, recall to your memory the history of this, your great young republican nation, and see if you can find in any one page of it a warrant for the implications in the above quotation: that we could so forget our great mission, assigned to us so plainly by Providence, of building here, on the virgin soil of this continent, a secure and happy home for the people of all the earth to fly to when down-trodden and oppressed by their own selfish and tyrannical governments.  The centennial year finds us in possession of more than six times the extent of territory we had at the close of the War of Independence.  Have we acquired a single acre of this great addition with the sword?  It is our glory to be able to say we have not.  We acquired Louisiana and the immense extent of country in the valley of the Mississippi by purchase from France; the Floridas in the same way from Spain; Texas had acquired her own independence and existed some years as an independent state before we admitted her into our Union.  When Mexico made war on us for admitting Texas our armies drove hers before them, until General Scott found himself at the head of a victorious army in the City of Mexico.  The whole country lay at our feet, yet what did we do?  Did we do as Germany did to France under like circumstances, annex some of her states and then lay her for years under contribution, grinding down her people with taxation?  No; we bought California and New Mexico from the conquered people, and paid for them with gold.  Alaska we bought from the Russian government.  Do we have to keep a standing army to hold all this vast territory?  No; not a single man.  If we did, the territory would be worthless to us, and we would not retain it, against the will of its own people, a single year.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>We have got nearly half this continent to bring under our flag.  Will our American Congress ever sanction our drawing the sword to do this?  No; our past history and the genius of our institutions forbid it.  We will gradually and surely acquire every acre of it, but our means will be peaceful and truly American.  We will keep on in the even tenor of our way--with our free churches, with our system of encouraging universal education, with our great national mottoes always in sight, upon which may be said to rest the whole structure of our government: "Equal and exact justice to all;"  "The greatest good to the greatest number;"  "Freedom to worship God according to the dictates of conscience."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Who can doubt but that the moral influence of a government thus guided will soon cause State after State to glide quietly into our Union, where they know they will be received as sisters and equals, to share with us all the blessings of such a government?  Is this the sort of government or people that the authors of the "Annals" see in their visions of the future of our country, when they see us crossing the great ocean to imitate England's infamous and treacherous tactics of hatching out inveterate hates in the midst of nations, so that when, maddened to half insanity, brother will strike down brother, leaving the instigator of the strife to flap her dark wings over the bloody field of slaughter she inaugurated, and, like all foul birds of prey, there to glut herself on the spoils such contests are sure to bring her?  No, my young readers; let us rather see in our visions of the future of the Republic, a united continent under one national banner, so powerful in its physical resources and means of defence as to insure its safety against a united world of enemies; so just, so wise in its dealings with the people of the earth as to challenge universal admiration; so true and faithful to its early history and our great national mottoes as to inspire confidence in the most skeptical.  Then we see in this vision of the future a nation with influence and power that will drive tyrants and tyranny from the earth, without shedding one drop of blood, or bringing sorrow to a single household.  That influence and power will be felt the world over, hated by injustice and tyranny, loved and extolled by justice and virtue.  England will then drop her bloody sword in the Indies, and cease her plundering of those Eastern nations; and forego at home her injustice to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>This vision is no phantom; everything points to its realization.  Already our influence begins to show itself throughout the world and has struck the shackles from many a fettered limb, and unlocked the door of many a cruel prison.</P>
181.sgm:<P>True to the tactics so much admired by the authors of the "Annals," England for fifty years fanned the flame of discord in our country, by urging on the freemen of the North against the slave power of the South.  Success seemed to crown her efforts, for the time came when brother cut down brother with the fury of madmen; but no sooner had the terrible struggle commenced than England changed her position, and is now found on the side she before denounced; in every possible way she aids those in arms against the Union, hoping soon to see the scattered fragments of the proud young republic at her feet.  Great was her disappointment for what she helped to bring about, for a wicked object ended in making this republic ten times more powerful than it was before.  It removed forever a terrible evil from our midst, and with it the only question that could divide us sectionally, and endanger our union as one nation.  Besides, it manifested to the world our immense resources and power, the extent of which we did not until then ourselves know.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When the civil war commenced the London Times concluded a long article on the "American question" by declaring that "England could send a fleet into Chesapeake Bay and dictate to both North and South terms of peace."  At the close of the war, when Grant and Sherman led their great victorious armies to Washington for a general review, the same paper, in an article on Canada, concluded by declaring "that the question of the final position of that country was now decided, and that if Canada did not want to join the American Union, she must herself keep out of it, for that it was now evidently absurd to suppose that England could, by force of arms, oppose the action of the American government on their own continent."</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA--THE ABSURD ACCOUNT OF IT GIVEN IN THE "ANNALS"--EXAGGERATIONS AND MISSTATEMENTS--STOCKTON, KEARNY AND FREMONT--STOCKTON'S MARCH TO LOS ANGELES--HIS RECEPTION AT SAN FRANCISCO--HIS ALLEGED PROJECT OF INVADING MEXICO--SECOND REDUCTION OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The next part of the "Annals" worthy of note is the history it gives of "The Conquest of California."  This account is immensely amusing to us '49-ers, who have conversed with so many native Californians and Americans who were personally actors in the scenes of those days, to read over this "history."  As given in the "Annals," you see that the authors are tired of the belittling process they so freely indulged in while giving their account of the Missions, and now, borrowing the gasconade style from our Mexican neighbors, proceed to the work of making their readers believe that the reduction of California to American rule was one of the most sanguinary and terrible struggles of modern times, when our gallant, heroic leaders met giants in power, all splendidly equipped for war, who fought for their firesides, their altars, their wives and children, with the ferocity of enraged tigers guarding their young; showing on every battlefield by their undaunted courage that they held life as worthless if victory did not strew her laurels around their banner.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The authors of the "Annals" seem to have one object steadily in view in their narrative--the exaltation of Commodore Stockton, which would be harmless but that they do it at the expense of equally deserving and brave men.  Colonel Fremont comes next, in their estimation, as deserving of praise.  The gallant General Kearny, however, was a failure out here in California, if we are to believe the authors of the "Annals."  The history begins by introducing Colonel Fremont.  In doing so they say:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Col. John C. Fremont is generally considered the conqueror of California.  While his exploits, undertaken with so small a force and against such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:superior numbers, <HI REND="italics">place him on a par with the famous heroes of the days of chivalry</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Commodore Stockton is introduced as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Commodore Robert F. Stockton arrived at Monterey, on the frigate `Congress' on the fifteenth day of July, 1846, and on the 23d of that month assumed the command of the squadron, Commodore Sloat having left on that day, to return to the United States.  The <HI REND="italics">bold and comprehensive</HI>
181.sgm: mind of Stockton perceived at once the circumstances by which he was surrounded.  He was deeply impressed with the grave and important trust that devolved upon him.  He was not dismayed nor perplexed with the importance of his mission nor the difficulties he was compelled to confront; with a decision of character, promptitude and sagacity worthy of commendation, he adopted a plan of campaign, which, if judged by its results, is <HI REND="italics">unsurpassed in the most brilliant records of military achievements</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Then comes an account--full of exaggeration, and so extravagant and absurd that it is not even amusing--of Stockton's chase after the Californians down the coast, with whom he never fairly caught up, and that was not his fault, for they took right good care to keep out of his reach.  At length he finds himself in undisputed possession of Los Angeles, without a battle, or the loss of a single man.  Now, hear our authors, in their account of this expedition, and I will only quote the last part of it: "The conception <HI REND="italics">of such an expedition into the heart of an enemy's unknown country</HI>
181.sgm: with a force composed principally of sailors unaccustomed to the fatigues and hardships of a long march, to encounter an opposing enemy, of vastly superior numbers, upon their own soil, in defence of their own country, <HI REND="italics">well armed</HI>
181.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">best horsemen</HI>
181.sgm:, and mounted on the <HI REND="italics">finest horses in the world</HI>
181.sgm:," equals the <HI REND="italics">most intrepid courage, indomitable energy, fertility of resource and self-reliance</HI>
181.sgm:, such as we find only combined in <HI REND="italics">minds of the highest order</HI>
181.sgm: and characters <HI REND="italics">cast in heroic moulds</HI>
181.sgm:.  Yes; despite of all the difficulties which he had to encounter, in the language of the dispatch to the Government: "In less than one month from the time he assumed command he had chased the Mexican army more than one hundred miles along the coast, pursued them into the interior of their own country, <HI REND="italics">routed and dispersed them</HI>
181.sgm:, and secured the territory to the United States; ended the war, restored peace and harmony among the people, and put a civil government into successful operation."  The authors then tell us that after Commodore Stockton left Los <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The success of Stockton in chasing the California rabble down the coast to Los Angeles seems to have so elated him, if we are to credit the authors of the "Annals," that he really believed himself to be some wonderful conqueror, for they go on to tell us that he now became possessed of the belief that he could over-run all Mexico with a handful of volunteers raised in California, out of its sparse population.  Hear what our authors say on this point, and judge for yourselves if they meant it in ridicule or in sober earnestness.  If in earnestness, then they must surely believe they were writing their book for dunces.  The probability is, however, that they misrepresented Stockton, and that no such scheme as they attribute to him ever entered seriously into his plans, for he was a man of uncommon good sense and excellent judgment.  Here is what they tell us: "He conceived the most magnificent and bold design of recruiting a force of volunteers in California from among the American population then about settling in the territory, sailing with them to Acapulco, then starting across the continent to unite with the force of General Taylor, then, as he supposed, approaching the City of Mexico.  Certainly, a more daring, brilliant and master stroke of military sagacity has never been conceived.  It reminds us of the famous exploits of the most renowned heroes of modern and ancient times."  If there ever was a vague idea in Stockton's mind of marching through Mexico with his sailors and volunteers, it was dissipated by the news which reached him, immediately after his arrival in San Francisco from Southern California.  The news was that the Californians had driven his men out of Los Angeles, and were vowing vengeance, and murdering every straggling American they could lay their hands on.  There was no alternative under those circumstances but to retrace his steps and do his work all over again.  He knew the terrible heroes he had to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>He arrived there about the 23d of October, and landed his forces, "in the face of the enemy," as the "Annals" have it.  The enemy, as a matter of course, fled; but Stockton was a little cautious, for some reason or other, and instead of following up the flying Californians, he re-embarked his men and sailed for San Diego.  This town he found in possession of a few swaggering Californians, who beat a hasty retreat, as usual, at sight of the American!  Then comes an account of Stockton's second reduction of California, in which two "terrible" battles were fought.  The march through the country is described as follows, on page 120 of the "Annals:"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Their route lay through a rugged country, drenched with the Winter rain, and bristling with the lances of the enemy.  Through this the Commodore led his seamen and marines, sharing himself, with the General at his side (Kearny), all the hardships of the common sailor.  The stern engagements with the enemy derive their heroic features from the contrast existing in the condition of the two.  The Californians were <HI REND="italics">well mounted and whirled their flying artillery</HI>
181.sgm: to the most convenient positions.  Our troops were on foot mired to the ankle, and with no resources, except their own indomitable resolution and courage.  Their exploits may be left in the shadow by the clouds that roll up from the plains of Mexico, but they are realities <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
181.sgm:<P>If the part of this quotation means anything, it means to say that all the battles fought by General Taylor and General Scott in Mexico were but as smoke when compared to the might battles fought by Stockton in California.  Commodore Stockton may well exclaim, "Save me from my friends."  The first opposition the Americans met with was at Rio San Gabriel.  There the Californians made a futile effort to dispute the passage of this stream, and, using the crest of a high cliff, were enabled to annoy the Americans very much while they were engaged in crossing their guns.  The crossing being effected, the Californians, as usual, ran away; or, to speak more politely, retreated as fast as their horses could take them.  This skirmish should be regarded as one of the greatest battles of the whole war, for the Californians succeeded in killing two sailors and wounding nine others.  The next day the Californians made a stand on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:the Plains of Mesa, about six miles from Rio San Gabriel, and all accounts agree that in this case they did make a sort of a little fight, in which several Californians were wounded and many of them lost their mustangs.  They did not suffer much, however, from the loss of horses, as those unhorsed and wounded soon found places behind those who were more fortunate, and very soon the whole motley rabble fled <HI REND="italics">never again to reassemble</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"The Californians made a gallant charge.  It is said by those who witnessed it to have been a brilliant spectacle.  Gayly caparisoned, with banners flying, mounted on fleet and <HI REND="italics">splendid</HI>
181.sgm: horses (!!!), they dashed on, spurring to the top of their speed, on the small but compact square into which the American force was compressed.  The very earth appeared to tremble beneath their thundering hoofs, and nothing seemed capable of resisting <HI REND="italics">such cavalry</HI>
181.sgm:<P>The three principal commanders in the reduction of California to American rule, Stockton, Kearny and Fremont, were as brave and gallant men as ever walked the deck of a ship in battle, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:these families were in favor of continuing their connection with Mexico, because they knew that through that connection they gained their importance and rank over the Indians and half-breeds, and their means of living in ease and comfort.  They were in favor of it, just as a business proposition, and not through national pride or any particular love of Mexico.  On the contrary, they rather despised Mexico, and would long since have cut loose from her, if the connection had not <HI REND="italics">paid them</HI>
181.sgm: in a financial point of view.  This being their position, they appear from the first to have made up their minds not to risk too much in the struggle with the Americans-- <HI REND="italics">certainly not their lives</HI>
181.sgm:<P>General Sherman, in his "Memoirs," page 19, alludes to the want of all sorts of wagons in Monterey, in January, 1847, the date of his first arrival in California.  He says:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Immediate preparations were made for landing, and, as I was quartermaster and commissary, I had plenty to do.  There was a small wharf and an adobe custom-house in possession of the navy; also a barrack of two stories, occupied by some marines, commanded by Lieutenant Maddox; and on a hill to the west of the town had been built a two-story block house of hewed logs, occupied by a guard of sailors under command of Lieutenant Baldwin, United States Navy.  Not a single modern wagon or ox-cart was to be had in Monterey.  Nothing but the old Mexican cart with wooden wheels, drawn by two or three pairs of oxen, yoked by the horns.  A man named Tom Cole had two or more of these, and he came into immediate requisition."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Now, what did the California army itself consist of?  From the way the "Annals" speak of the California forces, one would be led to suppose that those armies consisted of splendidly drilled cavalry regiments, well mounted, well clothed, well fed, and well armed.  The truth is, however, that there was no such thing as a well drilled company of a hundred men, at any time, in the service of the California leaders.  There may have been three or four hundred men, on one or two occasions, who were willing to fight and do their duty as soldiers; but, taken as a whole, the forces under the command of the California generals consisted of all the vaqueros throughout the country, gathered together by the call of the leading Californians to assist in driving the Americans out of the country, which they were perfectly sure they could do by a show of numbers, without striking a blow.  They were undrilled, and unarmed to a great extent; but they had great reliance on their riatas, and a good deal more on the fleetness of their mustangs, in case they should find it necessary to retreat, or, in plain English, to run away.  The generals found them plenty of beef and frijoles; so every young Californian and strolling Indian, in the whole country, mounted his best mustang and went to the war, just as he would have gone to a frolic or a fandango.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When the Americans came in sight, though they were few in number--not over four or five hundred, perhaps, at any one time--yet this number astonished the vaqueros, for they had never seen so many Americans together before.  The first sight was generally enough for most of them; and well regulated little detachments of four, five, and sometimes ten or twenty, were soon seen on the <HI REND="italics">retreat</HI>
181.sgm: --rather fast, too.  When the Commander remonstrated with some of these parties, they coolly declared that they "had only gone on a pasear, that they had much business at home requiring their immediate attention," and after thanking the General, in the most polite terms (politeness is a characteristic of all Californians) for the entertainment he had given them, bade him adieu, telling him at the same time to "be sure to drive the Americans out of the country, for they were a very bad people."  When deserted in this way, the generals, colonels and captains had nothing to do but to mount their handsomely caparisoned mustangs, fold their graceful and beautifully ornamented cloaks around their shoulders, and with dignity retreat before the triumphant Americans.  There were many other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>CONDITIONS WHICH MADE THE CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA AN EASY ONE--THE MURDER OF FOSTER--THE TELL-TALE REVOLVER--THE VAQUERO'S STORY--CAPTURE OF MARIANA--HIS EXAMINATION--SUBSEQUENT ESCAPE--MR. BREEN'S STORY--THE OLD WOMAN AND THE DYING MAN--MR. BREEN AND THE MAN--THE MEXICAN'S CONFESSION--THE MURDER OF HIS AFFIANCED AND AN AMERICAN--DEATH OF THE CARY BROTHERS--THE MEXICAN'S MURDER OF HIS OWN FRIEND--HIS REMORSE--FATHER ANZER'S VISITS--THE BURIAL--OTHER MURDERS.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Besides the miserable plight the Californians found themselves in, for making a successful stand against the Americans, when Stockton began his work of subduing the country, there were other causes which helped the Americans.  Nearly all the Missionary Fathers who yet remained in the State were glad to see Mexican rule go down, as they believed their chance for religious freedom was much better under the flag of the United States than under that of Mexico; so they everywhere threw their influence to prevent resistance to the Americans.  Then there were several prominent Americans married to daughters of leading Californians, which had a great influence with those families to privately side with the Americans.  As a general rule, the California women liked the Americans, and this was no small help towards reconciling the native Californians to their new national connection.  However, the good judgement with which our generals treated the Californians wherever they obtained power over them, did more to induce the whole people to quietly acquiesce in the new order of things, than all the other causes taken together; and it is no vain boast to say that in the history of the world there never was a conquered people so friendly with their conquerors after the contest was ended, as were the native Californians with the Americans at the close of the war.  Their intercourse has ever since been of the most friendly and kindest character.  In this remark, of course, I allude to the well educated, intelligent class, who were the governing people under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Savage and Foster were partners in the cattle business, and lived near Stockton in 1849 and '50.  They purchased small bands of cattle, as they could find them, and furnished the butchers of Stockton and the neighboring mining camps with beef cattle, as they might require them.  They made money fast in this business.</P>
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181.sgm:or shanty, as he had often done before, when, to his astonishment, he saw lying on the table before Mariana, a beautiful silver mounted revolver belonging to himself, which he had lent Foster the day they parted.  This pistol was presented to Savage by a brother of his, and this fact Foster knew, and promised to be very careful of it, and return it safely.  A new light flashed on Savage's mind the moment he saw the pistol; but, concealing his feelings, he said, carelessly, as he took up the revolver, "Why, this belonged to Foster."  Mariana gave a sudden start; but, instantly recovering himself, he said, "Oh, yes; I gave a big price for it to Foster.  I gave him a hundred and fifty dollars.  It is not worth it, but I took a fancy to it, and he would not sell it for less."  "That <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
181.sgm: a good price for it, sure enough," said Savage, in the same careless voice; and as he spoke he walked out of the shanty.  He walked slowly at first, but then quickened his pace, and just as he did so he involuntarily turned half round and looked back at the shanty, and there stood Mariana leaning out of the door, evidently watching him, and as Savage looked back he at once withdrew out of sight.  "Ah!" said Savage, "I fear he knows I suspect him, and was watching my motions.  I am sorry I walked so fast."  Savage now, as quickly as possible, assembled some friends and told them what he had discovered.  The majority thought it was best to take the matter slowly, and watch Mariana's movements.  In pursuance of this idea, and to quiet any suspicions Mariana might have that he was suspected by Savage, no one went near his camp until late in the afternoon.  Two of the party who were on the most friendly terms with Mariana then went to his camp, on the pretence of business, but to their surprise the shanty was locked, and on looking around they found both of Mariana's fine horses gone, and there was a something about the little house that said plainly, "You come too late; I am deserted."  They now unhesitatingly broke open the door, and, on entering, found everything in confusion, as if the owner had just selected whatever was of much value and could be conveniently taken away, and abandoned everything else.  Then there was great excitement among the Americans, and Savage remembered that the vaquero who was with Mariana at the time he left Stockton with Foster was yet in his employment, and now most likely with his cattle out on the plains a little beyond French Camp.  So, five well mounted and well armed men were dispatched to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"At about noon to-day Mariana came to the camp where I was taking care of the cattle, and told me that Savage had seen Foster's pistol, which he had just taken out of his valise for the first time since he got back from the lower country, and that, from the way Savage looked and acted, he was satisfied that he suspected him of murdering Foster, and that, on that account, he had made up his mind to leave the country for the present.  He then told me that if he never came back, I could have the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Now the vaquero paused, and seemed almost to choke as he leaned his head forward, with forehead clasped in both hands.  Recovering himself in a moment, he proceeded--not, however, until he was reminded of the necessity of doing so by a jerk on the rope, and an angry voice saying, "Now tell us all about Foster and his man."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The first day we left Stockton," he went on, "we did not go far.  We camped about a mile after crossing the ferry on the San Joaquin river, where there was good shade and grass for our animals.  After eating our evening meal, Foster and his vaquero lay on the grass asleep, and Mariana and I lay there also; but we did not sleep.  After a little Mariana made a signal to me to follow him.  He led the way into the tules for some distance, until we came to an open spot.  Then he threw himself on the ground, and I also sat down.  For the first time, I learned from him that he intended to kill the Americans, and take their gold.  I did not want to have anything to do with it, and told him so.  I said that Foster had always treated me well, and I could not kill him.  He swore at me; called me a coward; said it was no harm to kill an American; that they had stolen California from Mexico, and killing one of them was just the same as killing a man in battle.  He said that all the gold in this country of right belonged to the Mexicans, and that it was the duty of every Mexican to kill every American he could, and take all their gold.  He said Foster had five thousand dollars in his valise, and that I sould have half.  So, after awhile, I agreed, and it was settled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>We dragged the bodies to a deep, dry arroyo, threw some brush and stuff on them, and, without waiting for daylight, saddled up and took all the horses and traps with us.  Just after daylight we turned out of the trail, and camped.  Here we burned up all the things belonging to the Americans that we did not want, and continued on our journey towards San Jose.  There we made a halt, and Mariana told me he left Foster's money with a friend in that town until he should return, as he had enough of his own to purchase what cattle he wanted.  He has, from time to time, given me money, but never much; and I have always been afraid he would kill me to get rid of me, and he would have done so, I know, but for his oath; for he once told me that with three others he took a solemn oath never to spare an American whose life he could take without discovery, and never, on any account, to take the life of a Mexican."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When the vaquero finished this terrible story, the crowd withdrew for consultation, and it was decided that four or five should prepare themselves and take the vaquero to the scene of the murder, and that another party should mount the best horses to be found in Stockton, and ride with all possible speed, that very night, for San Jose.  The vaquero agreed to act as guide to the spot where poor Foster and his vaquero met their bloody fate.  On reaching there, the remains of the Americans were found in the arroyo, as described by the vaquero.  On returning to Stockton the vaquero was placed in jail until news should be received from San Jose.  When the party which had gone to capture Mariana came within a few miles of San Jose they camped on the Coyote creek and waited for night to close in.  In the darkness of evening they rode at full speed into the town and made directly for a Spanish gambling-house.  In this way, before any one knew of their approach, they had surrounded the gambling-table in this establishment, and were not disappointed in finding Mariana; for there he sat, deeply interested in a game in which he had just ventured some hundreds of dollars.  They soon made known their business; and, without resistance, marched Mariana off.  Some of the party wanted to take him at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Mr. Patrick Breen, a pioneer of 1846 or '47 from the State of Missouri, and who lived for many years in San Juan, Monterey county, where he has left a well raised and prosperous family to perpetuate his good name, related to me another circumstance that will further illustrate the character of those days.  It is now over sixteen years since Mr. Breen told me the story, so I do not pretend to use his language, but in substance it was as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>MR. BREEN'S STORY.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Very early one morning in the Summer of 1851, I was walking along the corridor in front of the old Mission building that joins the Mission Church, in San Juan.  As I came to the west end of the building, I heard deep groans in one of the old dark rooms that opened on the corridor.  The door was partly open, so I entered to ascertain the cause of the moans, or groans, I heard so plainly.  In the back room I found a man, lying on a miserable bed, apparently in great pain.  On a seat near the bed sat a very old woman, looking more like an Indian than a Californian.  She was dark and shriveled, yet her eyes were bright and had not a bad expression.  I addressed the old woman politely in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:misery, and you think I am too big a fool to see it."  "You are mistaken, hombre.  I believe, as all Christians do, no matter what their denomination, that when we know ourselves guilty of great sins, we should ask good, pious persons to pray for us, so that God would be moved by their prayers to give us the grace to repent and sue for his forgiveness.  Padre Anzer is a priest of the Church you, as well as myself, were baptized in; and, if I were in your place, I would send for him, and beg him to pray for me."  As I finished speaking, he dropped his head on the pillow, but so that his face was downward, and covered from sight, while his hands were clasped on his ears.  He groaned, as if enduring intense pains and torments of body or mind--or, most likely, both.  After a few moments, he raised his head, and again fixed his terrible, wild, bright eyes on my face, and said, in a wild, excited tone, "What a fool I was to listen to you talking of <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">His</HI>
181.sgm: forgiving me.  It only made the fiends mad, and they all showed themselves to me, and I heard an unborn child we murdered cry again.  I tried to stop my ears, but it was no use; and the fiend laughed, while I was obliged to listen.  Yes; and I saw young Cary's bloody hand just as he always appears to me.  No, no; do not speak to me of God.  Speak to me of hell.  It is there I am going.  I am almost there now."  I was filled with horror at this allusion to terrible, inhuman crimes; but somehow I hated to go off and have the wretch die in despair.  So I sat perfectly still, undecided what to do, while he lay back on his pillow, with his eyes closed, breathing hard and fast.  I watched him, and began to fear that his hour was come, and that his soul was passing away.  But it was only one of his spasms.  He suddenly opened his eyes, turned, and looked at me with a sort of vacant stare, as if he had just awoke from sleep.  "Shall I call the woman?" said I.  He did not answer for half a minute, then said: "Well, I see you want to leave me; you are right, you are right, you are right.  Fly from me.  I am a child of hell.  You dare not listen to my history.  If you did, you would see that no place but hell is fit for me."  "I do not want to leave you; and I would do anything to help you, if you would listen to me, and do as I advise you.  I tell you that you can save yourself from hell even now."  He again arose to a half-sitting posture, and said, as he stretched out his head towards me: "The Americans are a great people--a wise people.  Tell me, do you believe what you have just said?  Do not deceive a miserable, dying wretch.  Do you, in truth, believe what you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>We can hardly realize, in these days of peace and safety for travelers in California, how different it was in the early days of American rule.  There is not twenty miles of the traveled road from Monterey to San Francisco that, at some spot, has not been the scene of a foul murder in those eventful times.  I could point out the location where at least six murdered men were found at different times, between San Juan and San Jose; and more yet between San Jose and San Francisco.  There are four murdered men buried under a tree a little north of the bridge that crossed the San Francisquita creek, or arroyo, near the Menlo Park railroad station.  The first buried there was a man of the name of Nightingale, who was in charge of the toll-gate kept on the bridge, which was built for the two counties by Isaac N. Thorn.  Nightingale was murdered in a little house he resided in, near the bridge, for his money.  Some months later, the bodies of three murdered men were found near the same place, and, unrecognized by any one, were buried under the same tree.  Nearly every road in the State has its similar terrible record of murders.  For the present, I will leave this disagreeable subject, though there are frightfully thrilling scenes connected with my recollections of those dangerous days to lonely travelers in California, some of which you may find described in another place, should my space permit giving you more of the history of that period.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>DISCOVERY OF GOLD BY MARSHALL--UNSUCCESSFUL ENDEAVOR TO KEEP THE MATTER SECRET--LIFE IN CALIFORNIA--INCORRECT ACCOUNT OF IT IN THE "ANNALS"--ALLEGED DISSIPATION OF ALL CLASSES--GENERAL INDULGENCE IN GAMBLING--AMUSEMENTS, ETC.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The next subject treated of in the "Annals" that calls for a notice is the discovery of gold in California, and the consequences of that discovery.  The history of the discovery, as given in the "Annals," is accepted by nearly every one as, in the main, correct.  It is as follows.  I quote from page 130 of the "Annals":</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Many strange and improbable stories have been told as to the earliest discoveries; but we believe that the only reliable account is that given by Captain Sutter, upon whose ground the precious metal was first found, and which we shall therefore adopt, without noticing the various fabulous statements alluded to.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It appears that Captain Sutter, during the winter of 1847-8, was erecting a saw-mill for producing lumber, on the south fork of the American River, a feeder of the Sacramento.  Mr. James W. Marshall contracted with Sutter for the building of this mill; and, in the course of his operations, had occasion to admit the river water into the tail-race, for the purpose of widening and deepening it by the strength of the current.  In doing this, a considerable quantity of mud, sand and gravel was carried along with the stream, and deposited in a heap at the foot of the tail-race.  Marshall, when one day examining the state of his works, noticed a few glittering particles lying near the edge of the heap.  His curiosity being aroused, he gathered some of the sparkling objects, and at once became satisfied of their nature, and the value of his discovery.  All trembling with excitement, he hurried to his employer, and told his story.  Captain Sutter at first thought it was fiction, and the teller only a fool.  Indeed, he confesses that he kept a sharp eye upon his loaded rifle, when he, whom he was tempted to consider a maniac, was eagerly disclosing the miraculous tale.  However, his doubts were all at once dispelled when Marshall turned on the table before him an ounce or so of this shining dust.  The two agreed to keep the matter secret, and quietly share the golden harvest between them.  But, as they afterwards searched more narrowly together, and gloated upon the rich deposits, their eager gestures and looks and muttered broken words happened to be closely watched by a Mormon laborer employed about the neighborhood.  He speedily became as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Now, while the authors of the "Annals" seek to tell us of the result, or consequence, of the discovery of gold, and of the sort of people it brought to our State, and of the sort of society these people when assembled together produced in San Francisco, they grow perfectly wild, reckless and extravagant, and in many instances wholly misrepresented the facts.  This is an interesting subject to our young readers, for it is of their fathers and mothers this part of the "Annals" treats.  I think, before I get through, I will satisfy every one of them that the picture drawn of us '49ers in the "Annals," is a base caricature, and a vile slander on the pioneers.  From the picture, as given in the "Annals," you gather--</P>
181.sgm:<P>First.  That it was the wild, worthless, reckless and smart, clever rascals, as they call us, of all nations that rushed to California on the discovery of gold.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Second.  That scarce one virtuous woman came with that rush.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Third.  That it was unsafe for a virtuous woman to live in San Francisco.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Fourth.  That there was no such thing as a family circle in California in the years '49, '50 or '51, and hardly any worth the mentioning in '52 or '53.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Fifth.  That <HI REND="italics">every one</HI>
181.sgm:, Americans and all, on arriving here, threw off <HI REND="italics">all restraint</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Sixth.  That all, "from the minister of religion to the boot-black," gambled, drank and took part openly in every excess.  That for the first four years after the gold discovery, including 1852, <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm:, with hardly one exception, joined in one general debauch, openly attending, without an attempt at concealment, lewd fancy balls and entertainments given by <HI REND="italics">invitation</HI>
181.sgm:<P>The authors, in solemn earnestness, claim it as a <HI REND="italics">virtue</HI>
181.sgm:, and the only redeeming one of our people of San Francisco, that they were not hypocrites, as the peoples of other countries, they assert, are, because we openly and without shame acknowledged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>The "Annals" try to make this picture they draw of a four years' debauch in San Francisco look full of wild, charming delights, and they grow perfectly enthusiastic over it, as they exclaim: "Happy the man who can look back to his share in these scenes of excesses.  He will be an oracle to admiring neighbors."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Read the following quotations from the "Annals," and judge if I misstate the position of the authors as to our moral status in the pioneer years of '49, '50, '51, '52, '53 and '54.  Read the quotations from pages 364, 365 and 423 of the "Annals," and it will be seen that they are unwilling to admit of any change for the better as to private morals.  I have examined the book carefully, and I fail to find, from cover to cover, one unqualified admission that there were <HI REND="italics">any</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"These astonishing circumstances soon gathered into California (in 1849) a mixed population of nearly a quarter of a million of the wildest, bravest, most intelligent, yet most reckless and perhaps dangerous beings ever before collected into one small district of country.  Gold, and the pleasures that gold could bring, had allured them to the scene.****Rich or poor, fortunate or the reverse, in their search for gold, they were almost equally dangerous members of the community.****The gaming table, women and drink were certain to produce a prolific crop of vice, crime and all social disorders.****A legal Constitution could alone save California.****Probably Congress at a distance was not sufficiently alive to the present need of adequate measures being instantly taken to remedy the alarming state of things described.****At any rate, the most honest, intelligent and influential persons of California believed that they could wait no longer."</P>
181.sgm:<P>From pages 216 and 217:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Gambling saloons glittered like fairy palaces--like them, suddenly sprung into existence, studding nearly all sides of the Plaza and every street in its neighborhood.  As if intoxicating drinks from the well plenished and splendid bar they contained were insufficient to gild the same, music added its loudest, if not its sweetest charms, and all was mad, feverish mirth, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:fortunes were lost and won upon the green cloth in the twinkling of an eye.  <HI REND="italics">All classes gambled in those days, from the starched white neck-clothed professor of religion to the veriest black rascal</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"The remembrance of those days comes across us like the delirium of fever; we are caught by it before we are aware."****</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Happy the man who can tell of these things which he saw, and, perhaps, himself did, at San Francisco at that time.  He shall be an oracle to admiring neighbors."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Speaking of the close of 1849, they say on page 244:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There was no such thing as a <HI REND="italics">home</HI>
181.sgm: to be found, scarcely even a <HI REND="italics">proper house</HI>
181.sgm:<P>On pages 248, 249 and 250, they tell us:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Such places were accordingly crowded with a motley crew, who drank, swore and gamed to their hearts' content.  <HI REND="italics">Everybody did so</HI>
181.sgm:; and that circumstance was a sufficient excuse, <HI REND="italics">if one were needed</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Gaming became a regular business, and those who followed it professionally were <HI REND="italics">really among the richest, most talented and influential citizens</HI>
181.sgm: of the town."***"The sight of such treasures, the occasional success of players, the music, the bustle, heat, drink, greed and deviltry, all combined to encourage play to an extent limited only by the great wealth of the community.  <HI REND="italics">Judges</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">clergymen, physicians</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">advocates, merchants</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">clerks, contractors, shopkeepers, tradesmen, mechanics</HI>
181.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">laborers, miners</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">farmers, all</HI>
181.sgm: adventurers in their kind-- <HI REND="italics">every one</HI>
181.sgm:<P>An admission on page 251, which is worse than no admission:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There were exceptions, indeed, and some men scorned to enter a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:gambling saloon, or touch a card, but these were <HI REND="italics">too few comparatively to be specially noticed</HI>
181.sgm:<P>On page 300, of the year 1850, they say:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Perhaps two thousand females, many of whom were of base character, and loose practices, were also added this year to the permanent population."</P>
181.sgm:<P>On page 357 (in 1851):</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Females were very few in proportion to the whole number of inhabitants, although they were beginning to increase more rapidly.  <HI REND="italics">A very large</HI>
181.sgm: portion of the female population <HI REND="italics">continued</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Pages 364-65:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Balls and convivial parties of the most brilliant character were constantly taking place.  The great number of flourishing women of pleasure, particularly French, mightily encouraged this universal holiday, and gave ease, taste and <HI REND="italics">sprightly elegance</HI>
181.sgm: to the manners of the town."****" <HI REND="italics">It would be hard indeed</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"During the disturbed times in the early part of 1851, when nobody was safe from the assaults of desperadoes, even in the public streets or in his own dwelling, the practice of wearing deadly weapons became still more common.  These were often used, though not so much against the robber and assassin as upon the old friend or acquaintance or the stranger, when drink and scandal, time and circumstances had converted them into supposed enemies."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The general population of San Francisco in 1852, with shame it must be confessed, in those days--as is STILL the case in 1854, to a considerable extent--drank largely of intoxicating liquors.  A great many tippled at times, and quite as many swore lustily.  They are an adventurous people, and their enjoyments are all of an exciting kind.  They are bold and reckless, from the style of the place and the nature both of business and amusement.  <HI REND="italics">New-comers fall naturally into the same character</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Page 368, of the year 1851:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Balls, masquerades and concerts, gambling saloons, visits to frail women--who have always been very numerous and gay in San Francisco--and an occasional lecture, filled up the measure of evening amusement.**It may be said, at the same time, that the foreign population were generally an orderly, obedient and useful class of the community.  The Chinese might have, perhaps, proved an exception."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Of the close of the year 1852, page 399, they say:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There is a sad recklessness of conduct and carelessness of life among the people of California, and <HI REND="italics">nearly all</HI>
181.sgm:<P>A flattering mention of women, on page 417:</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Stylishly dressed and often lovely women were constantly seen in fine weather, promenading the principal streets and idling their time (which they knew not how otherwise to `kill') and spending somebody's money in foolish shopping, just as is the custom with the most virtuous dames in the great cities on both sides of the Atlantic."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Of 1852 they tell us on pages 423-24-25:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No important change had occurred in the <HI REND="italics">social or moral condition</HI>
181.sgm: of San Francisco during 1852, and the characteristics of the people which were noticed in our review of the previous year <HI REND="italics">still existed</HI>
181.sgm:.  The old dizzy round of business and pleasure continued.  There were not only more people, greater wealth, finer houses, more shops and stores, more work, trade and profits, more places of dissipation and amusement, more tippling and swearing, more drunkeness and personal outrages, nearly as much public gambling and more private play.  There were also a <HI REND="italics">few</HI>
181.sgm: more modest women, and <HI REND="italics">many more</HI>
181.sgm: of another class.*****Then there were more churches, more moral lectures and religious publications, more Sabbath and day schools, and, too, more of everything that was beautiful and bad.  More <HI REND="italics">vice, debauchery</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">folly</HI>
181.sgm:, and, perhaps, also <HI REND="italics">a little</HI>
181.sgm: more real religion, and sometimes a <HI REND="italics">deal of outward decency</HI>
181.sgm:.***The majority, however, of the first settlers had faith in the place.  They relished its excitements as well of business as of pleasure; they had no family or fond ties elsewhere, or these had been <HI REND="italics">long rudely broken</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"A few years here make one old in sensation, thought and experience--changes his sentiments, and he begins to like the town and people for their own sake.  The <HI REND="italics">vices</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">follies</HI>
181.sgm:, the general mode of living that frightened and shocked him at first, seem natural to the climate, and after all <HI REND="italics">are by no means so</HI>
181.sgm: VERY DISAGREEABLE.***The scum and froth of its strange mixture of peoples, of <HI REND="italics">its many scoundrels, rowdies</HI>
181.sgm: and great men, <HI REND="italics">loose women, sharpers</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">few</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Page 452 (in 1853):</P>
181.sgm:<P>"A great portion of the community still gamble--the lower classes in public, and the upper, or richer, classes in private."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Pages 500 and 501:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"As we have said, during 1853 most of the moral, intelligent and social characteristics of the inhabitants of San Francisco were nearly as described in the reviews of previous years.***The old hard labor and wild delights, jobberies, official and political corruption, thefts, robberies and violent assaults, murders, duels and suicides, gambling, drinking and general extravagance and dissipation.***They had wealth at command, and all the passions of youth were burning within them.  They often, therefore, outraged public decency; yet, somehow, the oldest residents and the very family men loved the place, with all its <HI REND="italics">brave wickedness and splendid folly</HI>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Page 502 (in 1854):</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The cards are often still dealt out and the wheels turned, or dice thrown, by beautiful women, well skilled in the arts calculated to allure, betray and ruin the unfortunate men who become their too willing victims.***The keepers are wealthy men, and move in the better social circles of the town."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now let us hear the authors ventilate their ideas of morality on this same page and the next, 503:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Though there be much vice in San Francisco, one virtue--though perhaps a negative one--the citizens at least have; they are not hypocrites, who pretend to high qualities which they do not possess.  In great cities of the old world, or it may be even in those of the pseudo-righteous New England States, there may be quite as much crime and vice committed as in San Francisco, only the customs of the former places throw a decent shade over the grosser, viler aspects.  The criminal, the fool and the voluptuary are not allowed to boast, directly or indirectly, of their bad, base or foolish deeds, as is so often done in California.  Yet these deeds are none the less blamable on that account; nor, perhaps, are our citizens to be more to blame because they often seek not to disguise their faults.  Many things that are considered morally and socially wrong by others at a distance are not so viewed by San Franciscans when done among themselves.***And if San Franciscans conscientiously think that their wild and pleasant life is not so <HI REND="italics">very, very</HI>
181.sgm: wrong, neither <HI REND="italics">is it so really</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">truly wrong</HI>
181.sgm: as the Puritanic and affectedly virtuous people of Maine-liquor prohibition and of foreign lands would <HI REND="italics">fain</HI>
181.sgm: believe.*** It is difficult for <HI REND="italics">any woman</HI>
181.sgm:, however <HI REND="italics">pure</HI>
181.sgm:<P>The authors grow enthusiastic over the picture of our wickedness they have drawn, and on pages 508 and 509 they hold forth thus:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The crime, violence, vice, folly, brutal desires and ruinous habits--the general hell (not to talk profanely) of the place and people--these things, and many of a like saddening or triumphant nature, filled the mind of the moralizing `forty-niner.'  If these pioneers--and like them every later adventurer to California, may think and feel, for all have contributed something to the work--lent themselves to the enthusiasm and fancy of the moment, they might be tempted with the Eastern King to proudly exclaim, and as truly: ` <HI REND="italics">Is not this</HI>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Now the authors, in their enthusiasm, draw fancy scenes to astonish their readers.  I quote from pages 665-6-7-8-9:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Perhaps never in this world's history has there been exhibited such a variety and mixture of life scenes within the same extent and among an equal number of people, as in San Francisco for the two or three years succeeding the discovery of gold."****"Away from Law, away from public opinion, away from the restraints of home, half wild with the possession of sudden and unaccustomed wealth, `on with the dance, let joy be unconfined' seemed the motto best suited to the conduct of a large portion of the people.  The Puritan became a gambler; the boy taught to consider dancing a sin soon found his way to masked-balls; <HI REND="italics">monte</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"It is dark, the hour nine; the rain dripples outside and the quaker-grey outdoors, wet, chill, mud, gloom of the rainy season, drive the lonesome, the hilarious and the dissipated to the door where the ticket-taker admits the pleasure-seeker, who has deposited his umbrella in the general depot for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:those movable roofs, and been relieved by a policeman of any dangerous weapon--silver and gold excepted--which may accompany his person.  By the private entrance come the maskers, male and female.  The Spanish bandit with his high tapering hat ornamented with ribbons; the Gipsy with her basket and cards; the Bloomer, beautiful in short skirts and satin-covered extremities; the ardent young militaire with a borrowed uniform and sparse moustache; which requires like swarming bees the assistance of a clattering tin kettle to congregate the scattering portions; the Swiss ballad-singers, with their hurdy-gurdy and tambourine; the flaunting cyprian, not veiled by domino or mask; and the curious, but <HI REND="italics">respectable</HI>
181.sgm: and members of the legislature.  A splendid band of music is in attendance.  Away over the Turkey or Brussels carpet whirls the politician with some sparkling beauty, as fair as frail, and the judge joins in and enjoys the dance in company with the beautiful but lost beings whom to-morrow he may send to the house of correction.  Everything is conducted with the utmost propriety.  Not an unbecoming word is heard.  Not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:an objectionable action seen.  The girls are on their good behavior, and are proud to move and act and appear as ladies.  Did you not know you would not suspect that you were in one of those dreadful places so vividly described by Solomon, and were it not for the great proportion of beauty present, you might suppose yourself in a <HI REND="italics">salon</HI>
181.sgm: of upper-tendom.  But the dance is over; now for the supper table.  Everything within the bounds of the market and the skill of the cook and confectioner is before you.  Opposite, and by your side, that which nor cook nor confectioner's skill have made what they are--cheeks where the ravages of dissipation have been skillfully hidden, and eyes with pristine brilliancy undimmed, or even heightened by the spirit of the recent champagne; and here the illusion fades.  The champagne alone is paid for.  The soire&acute;e has cost the mistress one thousand dollars, and at the supper and during the night she sells twelve dozen of champagne at ten dollars a bottle!  This is a literal fact, not an idea being a draft upon the imagination or decorated with the colors of fancy.  <HI REND="italics">No loafers present</HI>
181.sgm: but the male <HI REND="italics">ton</HI>
181.sgm:; vice hides herself for the occasion, and staid dignity bends from its position to <HI REND="italics">twine a few</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Page 670.  The man all right, the woman a hypocrite:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Another picture.  It is Sunday afternoon.  Service is over at church and `meeting house.'  The Christian who went to worship, and the belle <HI REND="italics">whose desire was to excite admiration</HI>
181.sgm:, have returned home.  The one to <HI REND="italics">reflect or to read</HI>
181.sgm:, the other to <HI REND="italics">calculate possible triumphs or to coquette</HI>
181.sgm:<P>On page 727 we find this foolish misrepresentation:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Owing to his removal from office, and the impossibility of deciding upon his future course, but <HI REND="italics">chiefly because of the disordered state of the city, occasioned by the outrages of the `Hounds,' rendering it actually unsafe for any lady to reside there</HI>
181.sgm:<P>In puffing John W. Geary, on page 719, the authors utter the following malicious, wholesale slander of the Pioneers:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Who, then, would have expected to have found a community so lawless and reckless, so passion-actuated and fancy-governed, so wild, desperate and daring, <HI REND="italics">so pregnant with vices</HI>
181.sgm: and so <HI REND="italics">barren of virtues</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Now, I take issue with the authors' of the "Annals," and make the following statement, which I will undertake to sustain, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:part, by some facts given in the "Annals" itself, and, in part from other sources; and my readers shall be the judges of the probable correctness of my position.  In the first place, then, I assert, that after the first day of May, 1849, nineteen-twentieths of the emigration to this State came from the other States of the American Union.  Secondly, that this whole emigration, with a few exceptions, of course, were remarkable for their high moral and social standing at home, as well as for their education, intelligence, energy and personal bravery.  Thirdly, that fourfifths of them <HI REND="italics">never faltered</HI>
181.sgm:, in their new home, from this high character and standing.  Fourthly, that a large number of women and children poured into the State with the American immigration, and that of all these women in San Francisco, and in the whole State, not so large a proportion as one in twenty belonged, openly or privately, to the abandoned class, which was the only one known, it should seem, to the authors of the "Annals."  Fifthly, that in the early Summer months of 1849, family homes began to appear in every direction in San Francisco, and that by the Fall of '49, they could be said to be numerous; and that from that time forward they steadily increased; that in the Fall of 1850, nice family houses and cottages, were a leading feature of the city; that, in '51 and '52, the want of families and of home family circles was hardly felt--except, of course, by the new comers; that not so large a proportion as one-fifth of the residents of San Francisco joined in the gambling carousals described in the "Annals," or in fact, gambled in any way; that there never was such a ball at a house of ill-fame, as described in the "Annals" on page 665, which they accompany with a wood cut to make it look charming; that there were balls at such houses no one doubts, but that respectable men in San Francisco ever openly attended such is untrue; that it never was so that keepers and managers of gambling hells were of the "first respectability and social standing" in San Francisco, as is claimed by the "Annals;" that no one in San Francisco ever saw a minister of religion, of any denomination, who was in good standing with his church, at a gambling table; that there never was a day in San Francisco when every man, or even one man of respectable standing was willing to say <HI REND="italics">openly</HI>
181.sgm: that he went to such carousals as are described on page 665 of the "Annals."  Now, my young Forty-niners, to whom I am addressing myself, let me see how far I can sustain these bold, flat denials and charges of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>On page 295 we find the following, in relation to the celebration of October 29, 1850:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The houses were likewise brilliantly illuminated and the rejoicings were everywhere loudly continued during the night.  Some five hundred gentlemen and <HI REND="italics">three hundred ladies</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Page 361:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Schools and churches were springing up on all sides.  A certain class largely patronized the last, though it must be admitted that very many, particularly foreigners, never entered them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Page 447.  1853:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"MAY 2d--May-day happening upon Sunday, a procession of school children to celebrate the occasion, took place the next day.  This was a new and pleasant sight in San Francisco, and the event is worthy of being recorded.  There were about a thousand children of both sexes in the train.  They appeared all in holiday costume, the girls being dressed in white.  Each one carried a bouquet of fresh and beautiful flowers.  There was the usual `Queen of May,' with the `Maids of Honor,' and various other characters, all represented by the juvenile players.  The children of seven schools bore distinctive banners.  A fine band of music accompanied the happy procession.  After proceeding through the principal thoroughfares, the children moved to the schoolhouse on Broadway.  Here some pleasant ceremonies, songs, and addresses took place, in which the children themselves were the chief actors.  A repast of such delicate eatables as suited youthful palates was next enjoyed, after which the glad multitude dispersed."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Page 492.  1853:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There are 10 public schools, with 21 teachers, and 1,250 scholars, besides private establishments.  There are 18 churches, and about 8,000 church members."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Divorce.  Page 503:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"By the laws of California, divorces are readily obtained by both husband and wife, one of whom may think him or herself injured by the cruel conduct of the other, and who, perhaps, disliking his or her mate, or loving another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Pages 663-4:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"In 1851 a company of <HI REND="italics">model artists</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Thus do the people of San Francisco employ their leisure hours</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Page 685:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The aggregate number of schools in this city is now 34, the whole number of teachers 62--20 being males and 42 females, and the whole number of scholars 1,305 boys, and 1,216 girls--or, in all, 2,521, about seventy per cent of all the children over four years of age in the place.  In five of these schools, the ancient and modern languages, higher mathematics, philosophy, etc., are taught."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Churches and Religion.  Page 687:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"We have gazed so long on the moral turpitude of the San Franciscans, that both eye and mind would turn away pained if they could dwell on more pleasant sights.***Happily the long record of vice and immorality (the black page of our diary) has a bright and noble counterpart, like the gold-dust amid the muddy atoms of our own river-beds, that redeems our character from wholesale condemnation."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Pages 699 and 700:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Such an array of churches and societies are surely evidences enough of the sincerity, zeal and success of the early spirit of moral reform.  It has also established numerous benevolent institutions, and sought to excite sympathy and gratitude, by alleviating sorrow and softening the harsh blows of misfortune.*** We have already spoken of the public school effort, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:and the good accomplished through it, and we may remark now that it has been ably seconded by the establishment, in almost all the churches, of Sabbath-schools and Bible-classes, which are <HI REND="italics">extremely well attended</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Page 701:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"We have said enough, we hope, to prove that not all, nor near all, the citizens of San Francisco are lost to everything but reckless dissipation.  No city of equal size-- <HI REND="italics">few of ten times its age</HI>
181.sgm: --can present such a list of <HI REND="italics">men</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">institutions</HI>
181.sgm:<P>On page 176 of the "Annals" we find that in June, 1847, some time before gold was discovered, not counting the New York volunteers, there were 375 white inhabitants in San Francisco; 107 of these were children, of both sexes, and 77 were women, and 228 of the whole number were born in the United States.  This shows that we did not start with much when gold was discovered.  Now read the quotation from page 295 of the "Annals," and what do we find on the twenty-ninth day of October, 1850, a little over a year after the American immigration began.  We find 300 highly respectable ladies attending a ball given in honor of the admission of California into the Union.  I was at that ball, and I knew personally every lady in attendance on that happy occasion, and there was not one exceptionable female there.  They were the wives and daughters of our first citizens.  Pretty good, you will admit, for a city where no virtuous women could live, if we were to credit the "Annals."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the next place, read the quotation from page 447.  Here we find 1,000 well dressed, well cared for, beautiful children on parade, representing at least three times that number not on parade.  This proves that on the second day of May, 1853, there must have been at least <HI REND="italics">four thousand children</HI>
181.sgm: in San Francisco.  Did the mothers of these 4,000 children arrive here the day before the parade, or had they mothers?  The children were beautifully dressed.  Can it be that they came from the haunts of the vile and the wicked, as the "Annals" would have us believe?  My young reader, these children had mothers; good, virtuous, and as true women as ever adorned a community.  They were your mothers, the women of '49--'50--'51--the existence of whom the authors of the "Annals" ignore throughout their whole book.  On pages 300 and 357, and in every paragraph relating to women, they wickedly misrepresent the character of the female immigration to our State.  I well recollect that, on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:occasion of that parade of children, I stood on Montgomery street with a respected friend, now past to his last resting place in Lone Mountain.  As the procession passed us, my friend, clasping his hands enthusiastically, exclaimed: "Well, well! God bless the women of '49!  They have done more for our State than all the men on earth."  Next let me ask you to read the quotations from pages 492 and 493.  What do you think?  Does it not show pretty well for a place the authors of the "Annals" tell us was steeped to the chin in a universal debauch?  In 1847 we started, as I have already drawn your attention to, with 375 white inhabitants, and 107 of these were children.  In three years from that date the "Annals" are forced to admit the existence of <HI REND="italics">ten</HI>
181.sgm: public schools, conducted by 21 teachers, with <HI REND="italics">one thousand two hundred and fifty children</HI>
181.sgm: in daily attendance; 18 churches, with <HI REND="italics">eight thousand</HI>
181.sgm: church members.  Who were these church members?  To take a rule that almost universally applies to the sex of church members, say three women to one man, it will give us 6,000 female church members and 2,000 male church members.  How is this?  The "Annals" tell us that no virtuous women could live in San Francisco at that time.  The "Annals" further tell us that, besides the <HI REND="italics">one thousand two hundred and fifty</HI>
181.sgm: children at the public schools, there were a great number attending "private educational establishments."  Pretty good, I say, for a three-year-old, debauched city, where " <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm: gamble and drink," and where the most respectable attend balls at houses of ill-fame by invitation, without any concealment, as the "Annals" tell us.  But we have more wonders to draw attention to that this "brave, wicked" people did.  Read quotation from page 685.  You see that, in 1854, the most depressed year San Francisco ever went through, the schools numbered 34, the teachers 62, the children in actual attendance two thousand five hundred and twelve, which was seventy per cent. of the children over four years of age in the whole city.  By adding the thirty per cent.  <HI REND="italics">not in attendance</HI>
181.sgm: on the schools, and the children under four years of age, it will give us about 5,000 children for San Francisco at that date.  Pretty fair, you will admit, for a city whose women are "flaunting, idle, worthless creatures."  Yes; pretty fair for a city that has no mothers, no home family circles, if we are to believe the authors of the "Annals."  Now I will draw your attention to the quotation from page 663, and ask this question: If San Francisco was such a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:, some virtuous women in San Francisco; but they were the exception.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:On page 300 we are told that of 2,000 women they report as arriving that year, " <HI REND="italics">many</HI>
181.sgm: of them were of the abandoned sort," and from the way it is stated, the impression is given that <HI REND="italics">most</HI>
181.sgm: of them were of that class, whereas, in truth, not over three in a hundred of them were of that class, and this is a large estimate.  Again, on page 357, we are told that the women were increasing very fast, but that " <HI REND="italics">a very large proportion of them continue to be of the worst class</HI>
181.sgm:."  This is another wicked misrepresentation.  Read the quotation from page 417.  What a false idea it conveys of the women of '49!  For, my young readers, there never was in the annals of the world a nobler class of women than the women of '49.  They were patient, they were enduring.  They accepted terrible privations, and faced dangers and trials without a murmur.  Many and many a time in those days, when the proud, strong man faltered at the difficulties before him, did the wife, the daughter, or the sister, with her cheerful, encouraging voice, and bright, sunny smiles, dispel the dark shadows, and show him the way to success.  When I speak of the "women of '49," of course I do not speak of the poor, abandoned creatures who so filled the imaginations of the authors of the "Annals."  No; I do not speak of them, or think of them; for, though numerous, and particularly so in the eyes of those who chose to live in friendship with them, they were as <HI REND="italics">nothing</HI>
181.sgm: in numbers when compared to the whole female population of San Francisco.  No; when I speak of the women of '49, I speak of the wives, daughters and sisters of the men of '49, who, with heroic courage and undaunted resolution, faced a pioneer life, asking nothing but to share our hardships or our triumphs--whatever fortune might throw in our way.  No; I speak of your mothers, who brought with them to San Francisco, or had born to them there, the 5,000 children we find there at the close of 1853.  I speak of the women who fostered and guarded those children in all that difficult time.  I speak of the women whose devotion, unobtrusive piety, good example, and constant whisperings of encouragement and good counsel to the worldly-minded men of their households, were the chief cause of churches, schools, orphan asylums, and many other useful and benevolent associations, springing like magic into existence in every part of the city.  Read the quotation from page 423: "A <HI REND="italics">few more</HI>
181.sgm: modest women and <HI REND="italics">many more</HI>
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181.sgm:our display of churches, schools, and all.  Read the quotation from pages 502--3.  It gives us some wise, moral teaching.  The authors say, in plain English, that all this vile life they describe is not " <HI REND="italics">really</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">truly</HI>
181.sgm: " wrong, after all; and that an open boast of leading such a life is commendable and a virtue.  The authors evidently do not believe in the scriptural passage that says, "Scandal must needs be but woe to him by whom it cometh."  Then they admit--but very unwillingly--that there are some virtuous women in San Francisco, fit companions for the dear, innocent, virtuous creatures <HI REND="italics">they describe</HI>
181.sgm: us men of San Francisco to be at that time.  Truly, my young forty-niners, you ought to be grateful to these authors for this admission; for it makes it just possible that some of your mothers were <HI REND="italics">more</HI>
181.sgm: than fit companions for the sort of men only known to the authors of the "Annals" as existing in San Francisco.  But they qualify this reluctant admission in so many ways that the uninformed reader conceives from it a yet worse idea of the women of '49 than he had before.  Read the quotation from page 670, and you will find another contemptible fling at the women of '49.  The authors give the women a base motive for attending church.  To the <HI REND="italics">men a good one</HI>
181.sgm:!!!  Can it be, my young readers, that these authors had a mother, or a sister?  They write as if they never knew of either, although they could not have got into the world without a mother, or lived through their childhood without a woman's unselfish, tender care.  Now, let me draw attention to a quotation taken from page 700.  It comes in after the authors <HI REND="italics">find</HI>
181.sgm: themselves compelled to give a record of the brilliant triumphs of religion and of learning in the first four years of San Francisco's existence as an American city.  You will find in this quotation a sort of an unwilling admission of what we had done, but not a word that takes back their former wholesale slanders of both men and women.  They see the absurd position they have placed themselves in, and, with impudence that is refreshing from its coolness, tell us that "not <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">near all</HI>
181.sgm: " the people of San Francisco were debased outcasts.  Truly we should be thankful for this admission.  The authors of the "Annals" are as inconsistent on this whole subject of society in San Francisco, in their views and the <HI REND="italics">facts given</HI>
181.sgm:, as they were in the first part of their book on the Missions.  Who can read of what the young city of San Francisco accomplished for religion and education, in four short years, and not be filled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:with enthusiastic admiration?  Yet the authors of the "Annals" describe this whole people as being little less than denizens, en masse, of houses of ill-fame, and gambling hells, conducted, they tell us on pages 249 and 250, by the "richest, most talented and most influential citizens of the city."  I challenge the authors, or any one, to <HI REND="italics">name</HI>
181.sgm:<P>The law, as it stands, is nothing less than infamous.  It lets the guilty party contract another marriage as well as the aggrieved party.  This is not so in New York or Pennsylvania, nor is it so in most of the older States of the Union.  Their laws only permit the aggrieved party to again marry.  Our law opens the door to terrible domestic wickedness, and strikes at the very foundation of society.  The shameful fruits are to be seen all over our State, in wives and husbands dishonored and disgraced, and poor children homeless, and many of them on the road to our State Prison, or worse.  From our law to the abominable doctrine of free love there is but one short step.  Our law gives the villain who covets another's wife, or the shameless woman who seeks another husband, an easy way to gratify their licentiousness.  When you, the young people of California, get the reins of power into your hands, which you will in a few more short years, honor the land of your birth by striking the objectionable feature in this law from the statute book.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE NATURE OF OUR EARLY IMMIGRATION--DIFFICULTIES AND EXPENSE--THE WRITER'S OWN EXPERIENCES--THE "SOUTH CAROLINA"--CHARACTER OF THE VOYAGERS, AND THEIR AMUSEMENTS--THE ONLY LADY PASSENGER--RIO--THREE SCALAWAGS AND THEIR FATES--THE EMPEROR'S GARDEN--PUZZLING MONEY--SLAVE TRADE AND CIVIL RIGHTS--ISAAC FRIEDLANDER, CONROY AND O'CONNOR, JOHN A. MCGLYNN, W. T. SHAW, D. J. OLIVER, WM. F. WHITE--AIR CASTLES--DEAD AND LIVING.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I have said that the American immigration to this State, after the discovery of gold, was in the main of a very high order, as to intellect, education and moral standing; and this I think cannot be disputed.  When the news of the gold discovery reached us in the Eastern States, in November, 1848, thousands and thousands wished to rush off to California, but the difficulties in the way were found to be very great, principally owing to the fact that no one could go who could not command enough of money to get an outfit, and pay the expenses of the trip, which required in all about five hundred dollars.  This was more money than any worthless loafer or scalawag could get hold of--except he stole it, which was difficult to do.  Poor fellows, of unexceptionable character, found friends to help them to the money, trusting to their honor and honesty to return it, generally agreeing to send a handsome sum in addition in case of reasonable success.  This caused the immigration from the Middle and Eastern States to be decidedly select in character, and, even from the States west of the Mississippi river, mere loafers found it hard to get admitted into companies going over the plains to California; and to make the journey alone, at that time, was not possible.  Without wishing to intrude my own individual history on my readers, which would be disagreeable to myself as well as to them, I will just say enough of personal experience to show from what standpoint I speak.  I will describe the crowd with which I came to this State, and the voyage of the ship in which I came as passenger, and then go on and give my views <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As I before said, it is not my wish to paint those eventful three years with one virtue not fairly belonging to them, nor shall I attempt to shade over or keep from view the social excesses into which many dashed with shameless bravado, nor shall I attempt to hide from scorn the political sneak thieves of those days.  No; my intention, and my wish, is not to exaggerate either the vices or virtues of the times, but to hold up to view a correct and true picture of them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When the news of the gold discovery reached New York, I soon made up my mind to join the emigration to the Golden State.  I wrote to my parents, who lived in the interior, to get their consent and blessing.  Yes; I could go, and they were ready to give me their blessing when I should come for it.  Over the railroad I sped to my dear, old home, knelt for the blessing, and then parted with father, mother, brothers and sisters, and the beautiful spot that was so connected with all the joys and sorrows of my childhood and boyhood, never again to set eyes on it, or on most of the dearly loved ones.  I left them, that cold Winter's morning, at the railroad depot, but the wild California fever was in my blood, and carried me through a scene that, at another time, would have crushed me to the earth.  Was I to go overland across the isthmus of Panama, or around Cape Horn?  This was the question I had now to consider.  I examined ships advertised for California; I went to the meetings of clubs formed for the overland trip.  I heard all the agent of the Panama line of steamers had to say.  First I decided on an overland trip, but was disgusted at a meeting of our club.  Then I concluded I would go by Panama, but, on inquiry, found such crowds rushing that way that I feared great detention on the Isthmus, so I gave that idea up and finally settled on a sea trip via Cape Horn.  I recollect that Caleb T. Fay was fitting out a ship for the trip, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>When we were a week at sea we all got pretty well over our seasickness, and now the passengers began to get acquainted with each other.  The first officer, Mr. Wilson, and the second mate, Mr. O'Neil, we found to be perfect gentlemen, and in every way agreeable.  There were fifty-six passengers in the first cabin and one hundred in the second.  When about ten days at sea, the Captain made a proposition to the first cabin passengers that on the main deck, which, as I have said, was flush from stem to stern, there should be no distinction made as to privileges between the first and second cabin passengers.  To this there was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>There was Wm. F. White, the husband of our only lady passenger, who, having a treasure of priceless value to guard, seemed to make it a point to keep friends with every one.  He went into the importing business with his partners, McGlynn and Oliver, in a tent at the corner of Montgomery and Sacramento streets, San Francisco, and then in a building on California street; but for many years has resided with his brave pioneer wife in Santa Cruz, where they raised a large family.  He represented that district of country in the late Constitutional Convention, and is now State Bank Commissioner.  There was E. P. Reed, an agreeable young man from the interior of the State of New York, now a wealthy and prominent citizen of San Jose.  One of the brightest and most promising young men on board was a young lawyer from Rochester, New York, whose name was Rochester.  He was a favorite with us all.  But, in two short months after he set foot on California soil, death found him and closed the dear boy's career.  There was poor Paschal Anderson, a tall Kentuckian, who, in fair weather, played the violin for us to dance to.  He was a good-natured, merry soul.  He had strange names for his pieces, such as "Cherry Pie," "Pumpkin Pie," "The Stump Tail Dog;" and he could make his old fiddle almost speak those names, to the amusement of us all.  Poor Paschal!  I know nothing of his fate, but whenever I think of the deck of the South Carolina, I see him playing his fiddle there yet.  There was George Casserly, the driest and drollest being that ever got away from home; afterwards Police Captain in San Francisco, and later Justice of the Peace.  What his fate has been I know not.  There was Henry Pearsy, who got rich, I am told, by hard knocks and close attention to business in San Francisco.  There was Mr. Rooney, an unobtrusive, gentlemanly little man, and his son John, who both, after an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Where now are all those young, energetic, bright fellows who were passengers on the ship South Carolina?  Her brave commander, and I think more than three-fourths of her passengers, are gone to their last rest.  Her two first officers, Mr. Wilson and Mr. O'Neil, are, I believe, both well off and enjoying a prosperous life.  Messrs. Oliver, Shaw, Pearsy and Cunningham, of San Francisco; Reed, of San Jose, and White and his wife, of Santa Cruz, are all that I know of as living, though, of course, there are many others of whom I have lost track.  To this list of the living must be added myself, now here in Southern California, seated in my rancho office writing out these pages for our young people's entertainment.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I had the pleasure lately of spending a few days with the Whites in Santa Cruz.  Of course, we talked over old times, our voyage out from New York, of San Francisco and its '49-ers.  My wife, who was with me, being a '49-er, we were all in sympathy when condemning the Society of California Pioneers for not repudiating the dedication to them of such a book as the "Annals."  While in that locality I heard some anecdotes from the Whites and others so characteristic of the days of '49 that I will give some of them to you before closing this subject.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>ISLAND OF JUAN FERNANDEZ--ESCAPE OF THE CONVICTS--ENTERING THE GOLDEN GATE--UNWILLINGNESS OF CAPTAINS TO COMMAND CALIFORNIA BOUND SHIPS--PREPARATIONS TO CHECK MUTINY--MUTINIES ON TWO SHIPS, AND THEIR JUSTIFICATION.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The ship South Carolina made only one stop more after leaving Rio.  We put in to the Island of Juan Fernandez for a supply of fresh water.  This visit interested us all very much, for the most fascinating story we ever read in childhood was the story of "Robinson Crusoe," the scene of which was this island.  We found that it had been lately used by the Chilean government as a prison for convicts, but now there was only one family living on it, and an English runaway sailor.  The convicts had seized an American ship that had put in there, as we had, for water, and compelled the captain to take them all on board and sail for a certain port they named, in South America.  The captain feigned to accept their terms, but ran into a port in Chile not named by them; and, on some pretence, sent a boat ashore before landing any of the convicts.  In this way he warned the inhabitants of the character of his passengers, and as they landed most of them were taken prisoners, or shot in efforts to do so.  The government of Chile never again attempted to use the island for that purpose.  It appeared to us well stocked with wild goats, and we understood with hogs also.  The garden and orchards cultivated by the convicts were yet there, which afforded us a feast of fresh fruit.  The seasons being the reverse of ours in the north, the fruits were all ripening just at that time.</P>
181.sgm:<P>On the last day of June, 1849, we entered the Golden Gate of San Francisco Bay without a pilot, with every rag of canvas spread, not one accident or death having happened to us on the voyage.  Captain Hamilton was in wild, joyous spirits at this happy termination of a voyage he had begun with serious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The same education that taught the American boy independence of thought, feeling and action, also taught him the absolute necessity of every American citizen, who claimed to have a particle of propriety or decency in his composition, standing by and upholding all laws made, either by his own State or by Congress.  We are all naturally proud of our country; we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:.  Yes; I will take this ship, and you in it, safe in my command to San Francisco, if the Lord spares my life and allows her to float, or <HI REND="italics">sink her</HI>
181.sgm: with all on board!  What do you say, both of you?'  I felt a choking sensation, but, without saying a word, I turned to my wife.  She was pale, but perfectly composed, and without the least hesitation said in a quick, decided voice: `Yes, captain; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:if they dare take the ship from you, <HI REND="italics">sink her</HI>
181.sgm:!  We are perfectly satisfied.'  The captain instantly rose to his feet, and, extending his hand to my wife, said:  `All right, Mrs. White; just the answer I expected from you.  We will do it, as sure as there is a God in Heaven.'  Proud of the cool courage of my little wife, I then said: `Now, captain, <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SAN FRANCISCO--ITS HURRY OF BUSINESS--MEETING OLD FACES--$7,000 GAIN ON AN INVESTMENT OF NOTHING--A LESSON FROM "TONY"--FIRST BRICK BUILDING--JOHN A. McGLYNN AN ONE OF SAN FRANCISCO'S TWO WAGONS--THE MONTHLY MAIL--CURIOUS GOVERNMENT ACCOUNTS--MR. McGLYNN AT THE GREAT FIRE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now we are all on shore in San Francisco, what do we find?  What do we see all around us?  According to the "Annals," we should find a crowd of men and lewd women, both lost to every thought of restraint and decency.  Never was a falser representation made.  No; we found ourselves surrounded by a fast, rushing, surging people, where every hour of daylight appeared of immense value to them.  No one had time to talk to you, except on business.  You met men you had never seen before, whose names you did not know, or care to know, and did business with them, often involving thousands, with perfect trust in their word, for it was worth no man's while to tell a lie, even if he had that mean propensity, in those days; and, if such a fellow there was, he was soon found out and elbowed out of the way, and that was the end of <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
181.sgm:.  As I hurried along Montgomery street, on the second day of my arrival, I met a young man I had known in New York as a clerk in a hardware store.  I only knew his first name, and that was "Tony."  I did not know that he had left for California.  "Hello, Tony, is that yourself?"  "Oh, yes; I came across Mexico with Frank Turk, who is here also.  How long are you here, Gray?"  "Nearly two days."  "What have you done since you came?  How much have you made?"  "Not a dollar, so far."  "No?  Why, I have made $7,000; but then I have been here ten days."  "Tell a fellow how you made it."  "Why, I went up here on this street they call Sacramento street, and I saw eight lots advertised for sale there.  I went to the owners and bought them all, though I had not ten dollars to my name; but the holder of the lots <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>At this time, July, 1849, there was just one brick building on Montgomery street.  It stood on the west side, some 200 feet north of Sacramento street.  It was a two-story, large house, having a frontage of, perhaps, 100 feet on Montgomery street, with a sort of a porch or piazza along the front.  It was owned by Howard, Mellis &amp; Co., old-time Californians.  About the last of July I was surprised one day to see this building undergoing alterations and repairs of every sort.  The result was that it was cut into offices and stores, with one large store on the ground floor, over the door of which now appeared a flaming, large sign, of "Bleaker, Van Dyke &amp; Co.," auctioneers, with an additional notice in small letters that Mr. Bleaker, a relative of the famous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The same day I met Tony I met John A. McGlynn.  He was leading two half-wild mules.  "Why, John, what are you going to do with those rats?  Did you buy them?"  "Yes; of course I did.  We brought a wagon and harness with us from New York, and I am going to hitch up those mules and go to teaming.  I can make more money that way than any other, for there is but one wagon in San Francisco besides ours, and that is the one owned by Howard, Mellis &amp; Co."  "Where did you get the mules?"  "My partner and myself walked out through the sand to the Mission Dolores, and we bought them of an American we found there, of the name of Parker.  We did not meet a human being on the way to the Mission but two American Oregon boys, about twelve and sixteen years of age.  They had no shoes on, nor much clothes either.  They had axes on their shoulders, so we asked them how much they made a day cutting wood.  They said an ounce each; so I said to my partner that if such looking boys could make $16 a day, it showed that we had not struck the wrong country after all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>John A. McGlynn was so well known in California that a few words in relation to him may not be uninteresting to you.  He is the best representative of those times that I can draw to my mind.  He was an out-and-out Californian in all his manners and ways.  For the four years I resided in San Francisco McGlynn and myself were warm friends, and in after years, when I visited San Francisco, if I did not meet John and have a regular sit-down talk with him, I did not feel as if I had been in the city.  As a man, he was as honest as the sun; as a friend, there were few like him, and none more unselfish or better.  He had but few personal enemies and many friends.  As I was saying, he commenced his career in San Francisco by hitching up his wild California mules to the wagon brought into the country by White, McGlynn &amp; Co., and started as a regular teamster.  He wore a red flannel shirt and an old white hat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:which will be well remembered by San Francisco '49ers.  This firm soon picked up a second wagon, for which they paid some enormous price, and the first driver they hired for the second team was a young lawyer who had studied law with New York's favorite Senator, Daniel S. Dickenson.  This lawyer's turning teamster amused John very much, so that, in writing home to his mother in New York, he said: "We have to-day hired a lawyer to drive a mule team.  That is all the use lawyers are out here.  We pay him $175 a month.  Then, when you meet Judge White, my partner's brother, tell him this."  Mrs. McGlynn, John's mother, wrote in reply: "I saw Judge White and told him what you said, and he told me to say to you that he, as a lawyer, must say you could not have done better in the selection of a driver, and that he had no doubt your mule team would be well and <HI REND="italics">profitably</HI>
181.sgm:<P>When a ship was discharging, so many drays of all sorts, mostly drawn by half-wild, unbroken horses, would crowd to this landing place, that great confusion would ensue.  To remedy this, the draymen held a meeting, over which John presided, and adopted regulations to govern such cases.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The next day there was a jam at the little wharf as usual; all, however, governed themselves by the rules adopted, except the driver of Howard, Mellis &amp; Co.'s team.  He dashed in his heavy American mules, regardless of whom he discommoded.  John ordered him to take his place according to the rule in such cases, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>It was nine o'clock in the evening when John reached the delivery window.  Just then the round, fat face of a little Englishman employed in the Postoffice appeared at the open square, and said, in a loud, authoritative voice: "No more letters to-night.  It is nine o'clock."  And down he slapped the slide.  John instantly tapped loudly on the pane of window glass.  The fat little man turned around and looked; John beckoned to him to draw near, saying: "What did you say, sir?"  The little official put his face up close to the pane of glass, saying in the same loud voice: "Are you deaf, fellow?  I said no more letters to-night!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>He had hardly said the last word when Mack's fist came crashing through the glass, right on top of the little man's nose, laying him full length on the Postoffice floor, spouting blood like a whale when struck by a harpoon.  Our whole line, of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>A man by the name of Short, who was employed in the Postoffice and who knew McGlynn, now came running to the window, and, again opening the delivery slide, called out: "Oh, Mr. McGlynn, do not let them pull down the door.  We will deliver; we will deliver;" and so they did while there was a man to ask for a letter that night.  I, of course, enjoyed the scene very much; but I felt sure John would be called up before the Alcalde the next day.  So, when next I met him, I asked him if any trouble had come to him out of the matter.  "Trouble," said he, "why of course not.  Colonel Geary called on me the next day, and made the most ample apology for having told them to shut the window at nine.  He said he had poor pay, and but few clerks allowed him by the Government; so I excused him, and we had a drink and parted the best of friends, the Colonel assuring me, over and over again, that nothing of the kind should happen again."  I laughed immoderately at this, while Mack pretended not to see anything strange or ludicrous in it, but I saw from the twinkle of his eye that he enjoyed the Postmaster's calling to apologize.  "Look at my hand," he continued; "it has two cuts on it; whether from the glass or the Englishman's nose, I cannot tell."</P>
181.sgm:<P>E. Harrison was the Collector of the Port of San Francisco in 1849.  There was no regularity in the way the duties were collected.  Harrison was appointed by Governor Mason or Governor Riley, and told to collect the duties according to the laws of the United States, as nearly as he could.  He did so, I believe, to the best of his judgment, and I hope honestly, but he kept few, if any accounts, and very few assistants or clerks.  Generally, when a ship arrived, its captain would call on the Collector and give a full exhibit of his cargo.  The Collector then sent for each of the owners or consignees of the goods.  They showed their invoices, and the Collector, or his clerk, made out a statement of what each merchant should pay.  This the merchant paid, without any dispute or hesitation.  The Collector then took the money, put it into a sack, without making any book account of it.  When he had any expenses to pay, that he thought were chargeable to the Government, he paid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>When the desolating fire of May 4, 1851, swept the city, the Chief of the Fire Department, F. D. Kohler, was absent in Sacramento, and John A. McGlynn, being his first assistant, had to take charge of that terrible battle against the devouring flames, and acquitted himself well.  All night did the firemen work as firemen never worked before.  They had to use the old-fashioned fire engines, which were worked by hand.  Daylight came to find the flames not yet subdued.  John's men were all getting exhausted, and he was pressing every able-bodied man he could see into the service, to help the poor fellows who had worked so faithfully.  He spied a huge, comfortable-looking individual sauntering down Sacramento street, who wore a light-colored, heavy pea-jacket.  His hands were thrust into its pockets, and as he walked he had an air of self-complacency that indicated that he was rather enjoying the scene before him.  His expression of face plainly said: "Work on, you chaps, there at that engine.  As for me, this is none of my funeral."  He was, in fact, of that class then known in San Francisco as "Sydney Ducks."  John stepped up to him, and said, in a quick, decided voice: "Here, friend, give us a hand at this engine.  The boys are very tired."  The Sydney man muttered something in reply, which John did not hear, and passed on.  In ten minutes the fellow sauntered back again, looking rather contemptuously at the tired-out workers.  Mack could not stand his insolent way of acting any longer; so, stepping directly in front of him, he said: "Here, friend, turn right in and help those boys."  At the same time he laid his hand on his collar and gave him a slight jerk to face him for the engine.  The Sydney man drew back indignantly, and made a blow at John's outstretched arm to knock it from his collar.  In an instant John's left fist, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>At this time Frank Tilford was City Recorder--or Police Judge, as that official is now called.  While holding Court the next day after the fire, a large, fat man, wearing a heavy peajacket, his nose all swollen, and his eyes bunged up, made his appearance and addressed the Judge: "Your Honor, my name is Jenkins.  I am a free-born Englishman, just arrived, three days ago, from Sydney, and I now come to your Honor to demand justice for an outrageous attack upon my person by a freman, whose number I have taken down from the cap he wore when he assaulted me."  As he spoke he handed the Judge the number.  He then went on to give the Judge a very correct account of the whole circumstance.  The Judge listened patiently, and with some difficulty preserved his gravity, as he at once recognized McGlynn as the chief in the play.  Then he addressed Jenkins thus: "Sir, I have heard you state your case, and have to say to you that it is most fortunate for you that the fireman whose number you have given me is not now here to hear your story, or my duty would compel me to fine you $100, and imprison you in the County Jail for thirty days, for disobeying the order of that fireman.  This, sir, would have been the result on your own statement."  Jenkins, on hearing this, glanced with his blurred eyes all round the Court-room, as if in fear that McGlynn might appear, and then made a rush for the door, and was once more on a quick run.</P>
181.sgm:<P>This scene amused Judge Tilford very much, and when repeating it over to McGlynn they both enjoyed a hearty laugh.  From these anecdotes of McGlynn's pioneer life, if you were not personally acquainted with him, you might suppose him to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As, in years afterwards, poor John passed the portals to a better world, let us believe without a doubt that he found before him, in the great ledger in which is kept an account of all our actions here below, that entry of the "unpopular coin" bright and dazzling on the credit side of his account.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE THREE CLASSES OF CITIZENS--THE GENTLEMEN POLITICIANS--THE CAUSE OF THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEES--THE TYPICAL MINER--WELCOME ARRIVALS.  INGENIOUS FURNITURE--EARLY LAW COURTS.</P>
181.sgm:<P>From the digression in the last chapter let me go back to what I was saying of the general appearance of San Francisco and its inhabitants, on the last day of June, 1849.  All, as I have said, was bustle and rush in every sort of business.  There was not much talking about it; but, on the contrary, every one had a remarkably quiet, but earnest and off-hand sort of a way of dealing that was fascinating to one engaged in trade.  You made up your mind, after looking around for two or three days, that the immigration to California was dividing itself into three classes--first; the earnest, industrious workers, who had the will, and would find the way, to accomplish success in their new homes.  This class comprised at least <HI REND="italics">four-fifths</HI>
181.sgm: of the American immigrants, and perhaps as large a share of the immigrants from other lands.  The American population at this time seemed to outnumber all others twenty to one.  The next class that attracted your attention was a class of idle loungers around the gambling saloons--fellows who came to California with an idea that they could get gold without working for it.  They never had worked in their lives, and would rather starve than do it now.  This class did not amount to ten per cent. of the immigrants, but was large enough to breed terrible mischief in the near future.  There was then a third class, composed, perhaps, of ten per cent. more of the immigrants.  They were gentlemen politicians.  They had been politicians in their own homes, but had there run themselves out, and now came to California to make a new beginning, to take a new start, as it were.  Out of this class grew the treasury thieves and the real estate plunderers of San Francisco, for the first four years of her existence as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Now, how was it with the business men?  Say, the other four-fifths of the people of San Francisco.  I assert it as a fact, that they seldom, or never, entered a gambling saloon, except as a matter of curiosity for a few moments, once or perhaps twice.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"We have a new community to organize, a new State to build up.  We have also to create and sustain a reputation in the face of the misconceptions of our character that are entertained elsewhere.  But we have the most excellent materials out of which to construct a great community and a great State--emigration to this country from the States east of the Rocky Mountains consists of their most energetic, enterprising and intelligent population, while the <HI REND="italics">timid</HI>
181.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">idle</HI>
181.sgm:, who have neither the <HI REND="italics">energy</HI>
181.sgm: nor the <HI REND="italics">means</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Governor Burnett was our first Governor under the State Constitution, and was one of the purest men that ever held public office in any country.  He wrote this message while smarting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:under the insulting comments of the Eastern and foreign press on us here in California.  The good Governor speaks nothing but what every one knows to be truth, as to the character of our pioneers; but the closing words of the paragraph caused us all to enjoy a good laugh, for the inference is, that <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm:<P>At the tenth annual picnic of the Tuolumne Reunion Association, held at Badger's Park, this last summer, Rev. T. Hamilton, a highly esteemed clergyman, in his eloquent address on that occasion, alluded to the general character of the pioneers, and as his testimony is of the highest character, I quote a passage taken from the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"The founders of the State were, by force of circumstances, choice spirits.  The distance to be traveled and the obstacles to be encountered required that they should be men of a certain degree of wealth, and full of energy and manliness.  Most of them were men of education, many of them graduates of some American or European university.  In his own pioneer congregation of five hundred there were no less than twenty distinguished graduates.  The influence of such men was always exerted in the right direction, and consequently had a beneficial effect upon the community."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The New York <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"The class of our citizens which is leaving us for this El Dorado is of the better sort--well educated, industrious and respectable--such as we regret to part with.  The rowdies, whom we could well spare, cannot, as a general thing, fit themselves out for so long a voyage."</P>
181.sgm:<P>That such balls were given at houses like those described in the "Annals" was of course true, and that they were attended by judges and other office-holders, I have but little doubt; but it is utterly false to assert that the respectable business men, comprising so large a share of our community as they did, ever attended such balls, or consorted, as the "Annals" assert they did openly, with such company as the authors of the "Annals" say they met at those houses by invitation.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I recollect a difficulty growing out of an attempt at a joke in regard to one of these balls, in 1849.  A young man procured an invitation to a ball of this character to be sent to a friend of his, a Mr. B., a merchant of the first respectability, who to-day is well known in San Francisco and respected by all.  After the invitation was received, the young fellow took care that outsiders should know of its reception.  At first it created a good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>It is true that many lucky miners, coming to San Francisco from the interior, visited gambling saloons, lost their money, and committed excesses against decency and morality; but it is also true that hundreds and hundreds of such, coming from the mines, did their business in the city in a quiet, earnest way, without committing one act of indiscretion or losing one dollar foolishly.</P>
181.sgm:<P>To look at the returned miners in those days in San Francisco the first impression you would get was that they were all of a rough cast of men, uneducated and savage.  Their uncut hair, their long beards, their red flannel shirts, with flashy red Chinese scarfs around their waists, the black leather belt beneath the scarf, fastened with a silver buckle, to which hung the handsome six-shooter and bowie-knife, the slouched, wide-brimmed hat, the manly, bold, independent look and gait of the man as he walked along, made each one look the chief of a tribe of men you had no knowledge of before.  Get into conversation with this man, and you will find, to your surprise, in nine cases out of ten, a refined, intelligent, educated American, despising the excesses of the idle and the dissipated.  You will find his whole heart on his old home and those he has left there.  Look up as he speaks to you of wife and children and draws from beneath his red shirt a photograph of those loved ones, and you will find him brushing away tears that have fallen on his great shaggy beard.  Stand behind such a looking man in the long line from the Postoffice window, waiting for his turn to get letters.  See; he takes his letters from the clerk at the window, and his whole frame shakes with emotion, and, as he looks at the well known handwriting, his handkerchief is again on his face.  Here are the sort of pioneers the authors of the "Annals" somehow never saw.  A circumstance which occurred to myself will show how completely the miner's dress of '49 changed and disguised him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I was busy selling goods in my store, when a miner, just such as I have described, entered, announcing that he wanted to purchase some clothes.  I pointed to a pile of men's clothing and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>I saluted him with considerable deference, but of course with evident wonderment in my manner, for I was puzzling myself to think where the mischief such a man could come from.  The stranger, I thought, half smiled, but answered my salutation and inquiry as to what I could do for him, by saying: "Nothing, thank you; I merely stepped in to ask the way to the Postoffice."  "Oh," I said, "I suppose you have just arrived; what ship did you come in?  I did not know we had had an arrival this morning."  "I came across the plains," said my visitor.  I looked at him from head to foot, but for the life of me I could not make him out.  I said to myself: "How on earth did this fellow get into the store, and I not see him;" but, giving it up as a California riddle, I gave him the direction to the Postoffice.  He bowed, and thanked me with uncommon cordiality, adding, while he reached out his hand, that he hoped some day to be able to show his sense of the favor I had done him.  I took his hand and looked at him, completely mystified.  As he shook my hand he continued, with a laughing expression in his handsome eyes: "Oh, by the way, did you see a rough looking fellow, one of those red-shirted miners, come this way this morning?  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As to the female portion of the inhabitants of San Francisco, in July, 1849, we found many nice families already here.  Some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:families increased rapidly, making the place feel like our old accustomed American home.  A little later began to appear in our streets excessively dressed women of another class.  At first they were few in number, but in 1850 they became very numerous, and made themselves conspicuous in every way they could, They were every day to be seen on horseback in twos, fours, and sometimes sixes.  Men living by gambling and politics did not hesitate to consort openly with them.  At the opening of 1851 there was, perhaps, <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
181.sgm: woman of this class for every <HI REND="italics">nineteen</HI>
181.sgm: well-conducted women in San Francisco; certainly not more than that proportion.  Yet they made themselves so conspicuous and kept themselves so constantly on parade that one just arriving in the city might get the idea that the proportion of the bad to the good was much larger.  These lost creatures were the only class of women known to the authors of the "Annals," it should appear from their book.  The virtuous wives, daughters and sisters of '49ers, who were from morning until late at night hard at work at their household duties, seldom having time for even a visit to each other, they ignore altogether, and leave the impression that there was no such class of pioneers.  There was very little furniture to be had at that time in San Francisco.  This gave our lady friends a great deal of trouble; but it was surprising how ingeniously they managed to overcome the difficulty, and make their tents, shanties or houses look neatly furnished with the few articles they were able to obtain.  One evening I called on a lady friend--a Mrs. T.--who lived in a little shanty that stood in the sand hills above Kearny street, <HI REND="italics">in</HI>
181.sgm: California street, then unopened.  Everything was as neat as a baby house, and I was surprised to see in the apartment they called the "sitting room" what looked like a handsome sofa, covered with brown linen in the neatest style.  I could not help saying: "Where did you get that sofa, Mrs. T.?"  "Oh, that is a secret," she said, while she and her husband both laughed.  The husband then said: "I am prouder of that sofa than if it came from New York's most fashionable furniture store."  As he spoke he showed me that the sofa was contrived out of a long box saddlery had been imported in.  In a few evenings after this I called on another lady friend, a Mrs. W., a girl yet in years.  When we were eating a supper of her cooking I told the story of Mrs. T.'s sofa.  "Well," said Mr. W., "please look at my wife's work--the ottoman you are seated on."  I did so, and found it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Afterwards, in 1853 and '54, when ladies came to join their husbands in California, they found handsome houses elegantly furnished, all ready for them to walk into and enjoy, yet many of them grumbled and growled at everything.  "There was too much wind in San Francisco," "too few amusements," "the walking was bad on account of the sand."  And so it was with everything, until some of them actually went off home--or East, for there was no home for them any more--thus permanently breaking up their families.  When I observed this, and thought of the women of '49, I could not help repeating Scott's lines:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O, woman, in our hours of ease,<LB>Uncertain, coy, and hard to please,<LB>And variable as the shade<LB>By the light quivering aspen made,<LB>When pain and anguish wring the brow<LB>A ministering angel thou!"<LB></HI>
181.sgm:<P>On Sundays, in '49 and '50, I often took great pleasure in visiting the churches of the various denominations, just to see what progress we were making in the all-important point of obtaining a worthy female population; and I used to find myself perfectly astonished at the fast increase of both women and children.  Their universal attendance at church was, too, a striking feature of the women of '49.  Every woman and child in San Francisco, not sick in bed, it seemed to me, attended some church on Sunday, in the forenoon at least.  Of course I do not allude to the abandoned class when I say this.  A pleasing picture, too, of religious progress in San Francisco at that time was the total absence of sectarian bitterness, which too often obstructs the progress of true religion in other countries, and, in fact, even in our Eastern States.  The clergymen, of all denominations, in San Francisco--Protestant, Catholic and Jewish--worked, each in his own way, like a band of brothers, ever ready to praise and commend each other on all proper occasions.  Shoulder to shoulder, they worked, warring <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
181.sgm: on vice and immorality.  Yet these were the men the "Annals" tell us "elbowed their way to the gaming table, and unblushingly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>This good-will between religious people and the untiring activity and zeal of the women, accounts for the wonderful prosperity of the churches of the various denominations in San Francisco, that I have before drawn attention to.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In July, '49, there was no regular law authority in any part of California.  There were Alcaldes, who executed, in old times, an arbitrary authority, but when the Americans came flocking in great numbers, the Alcaldes became loth to claim or exercise much authority.  So the people in their primary capacity dealt out justice and decided all disputes, recognizing no appeal to any higher tribunal.  This was not like the Vigilance Committee business of after years.  This was the action of the <HI REND="italics">whole</HI>
181.sgm:<P>For awhile in '49 we were disturbed by the well-remembered organization called the Hounds; but these fellows were disposed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:of in one day, never again to show themselves, by the united action and fiat of the whole people.  In July, 1849, they were in the zenith of their power in San Francisco.  They mostly consisted of the worthless members of Col. Stevenson's regiment of New York volunteers, who had been disbanded in Monterey in 1848.  They lived by gambling, and they dressed in a flashy, ridiculous style, white vests embroidered beautifully, showy silk neckties, fine cloth coats and pants, the coats often lined with red silk.  They gave out that they had taken San Francisco under their protection and were a volunteer police force.  On Sundays they paraded the streets with a band of music.  Idlers and loafers from among the newcomers joined them, and their numbers looked formidable when on parade.  We were all more or less afraid of them, as they were responsible to no one but themselves for their actions, and it was impossible to have confidence in them, for in the main they were scalawags of the first water.  From the way the Hounds are spoken of in the "Annals" you would suppose they were a band of robbers from whom no one's property was safe.  This was not so.  They never <HI REND="italics">stole</HI>
181.sgm:, or were even suspected of it.  If any American, man or woman, was wronged, he or she would find protection by making application to them.  They were cruel and severe towards all but their own countrymen when they undertook to deal out punishment for transgressions of any sort.  Though we were every day getting more and more afraid of this volunteer police, as they pretended to be, no one made a movement against them.  First, because we did not know our own strength at that time, and, secondly, because every one had too much of his own private business on hand to make it at all prudent or safe for him to meddle in any business of a public nature; so the Hounds were allowed full swing in regulating, as they called it, the government of the city.  It was their practice to walk into any store they wished and select such articles as suited their fancy and walk off without paying for them, saying as they left: "This is all right; we will see that your place and property are protected."  As matters stood no one dared to object, and so we continued, until one Sunday an American sailor was badly beaten in a row with some Chilenos.  At that time there were a large number of Chilenos living in the part of the city known as Clark's Point, and it was here the sailor was beaten.  He made his complaint to the Hounds.  At once the whole gang <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>From the account given of us by the "Annals" you would suppose dishonesty and thieving were characteristic of our whole community from the first day the American immigration began to pour into San Francisco to the day their book was put forth.  I assure my readers that never was a more false representation made, for the truth is, that all through '49 and until the mid-Summer months of 1850 there was no such thing known as a theft, either large or small, in San Francisco.  Merchants did not fear to leave their goods exposed in the most careless way in their canvas-walled houses and tents, while they went to church or to walk over the hills on Sundays, a common practice with us all in '49 and '50.  Even our gold was left in our tents, where it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The doings of this '51 Vigilance Committee give material for a chapter in the history of California's great city that it were far better was never written; or, if written, the task should have been left to the pen of some truthful, conservative historian.  But, instead of that, we find it written up in the "Annals" in the same glowing, irreligious, piratical style that pervades the whole book from cover to cover.  The result of the proceedings of the Committee was undoubtedly to bring a sense of safety to the inhabitants of the city and a relief from a position that was intolerable.  But it was that sort of a feeling of safety that one might have who, to escape the grasp of a grizzly bear, flies to the protection of a wild bull.  While the grizzly is in sight, the bull is an agreeable companion; but, alas, what a fearful position to be in when the bull has driven the bear out of sight!  This illustration is fair, because it is found out of the question to conduct the operations of a Vigilance Committee without the active <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>What was the consequence of this?  In the first place, all the small, weak-minded men who saw themselves paraded in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:pages of the "Annals" as the heroes whose self-sacrificing deeds the authors of the "Annals" felt bound to rescue from oblivion, became puffed up, and now boasted of what before they had taken care to keep to themselves, The really good men, who saw themselves paraded with unasked and unwished-for praise, did not think it prudent to bring on any discussion by repudiating what they in sorrow had deemed themselves obliged to do in that trying time.  This begat a very widespread feeling that a Vigilance Committee was a first-rate mode of reforming abuses.  The restless loafers of the community, who longed once more for the handling of other people's money and for a brief notoriety that they could not get in any other way, lost no opportunity of urging the renewed action of the Vigilance Committee, or of the formation of a new one.  In this they failed for a long time, and San Francisco began to feel the good effects of the restored confidence of the outside world.  Suddenly, in 1856, an event occurred which again dashed back our prosperity and clouded over the fair name we had begun to recover with a darker shadow than had yet fallen on it.  James King of Wm., a gentleman of the highest character, universally esteemed and respected by all who knew him, had commenced the publication of the <HI REND="italics">Evening Bulletin</HI>
181.sgm: as a reform paper.  He had but little experience as a journalist, and attacked corruption in office in such a rough, violent way that he defeated his own object and made the man attacked seem the object of personal persecution by the editor.  However, King was regarded by the well-disposed of the community as their champion, and they urged him on and promised him protection from actions at law or otherwise, until he almost challenged and seemed to seek personal encounter in the streets.  The result was that in January, 1856, he was assassinated, or, as some prefer to say, killed in the streets by a man of the name of Casey, whom he had attacked in his paper.  Had the <HI REND="italics">Evening Bulletin</HI>
181.sgm: then been conducted with the judgement and ability we now see displayed in that same paper, how different might have been the result, for its noble, uncompromising war on the villainies of the day would not, in that case, have endangered the life of its great reform editor, and he would have lived to do the city and whole State incalculable services.  As it was, he was struck down in his usefulness, and his young life lost to us.  His death brought into life the old Vigilance Committee, the dead body of which had been so carefully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Everywhere in the country preparations began to be made to respond to the Governor's call, when suddenly it was announced that Captain Sherman had thrown up the command, and that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>It was truly wonderful how obedient the people of '49 were to the edicts of the despotic Alcaldes they themselves had placed in power in all the mining camps and small communities throughout the State.  If an Emperor, surrounded by powerful armies, had placed these Alcaldes in power, the obedience to their fiats could not have been more complete, while it certainly would not have been half so cheerfully yielded.  Let me relate in the next chapter a little incident that helps to illustrate this.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>BILL LIDDLE--A DANGEROUS PASS IN THE MOUNTAINS--OLD KATE'S INTELLIGENCE--THE MEETING IN THE PASS--VALOR OF OLD KATE--THE DISCOMFITED CONDUCTOR--THE TRIAL AND THE ALCALDE'S DECISION--COMPARISON BETWEEN THE OLD AND NEW METHODS OF SETTLING DISPUTES--LIFE OF A POLITICIAN--A CABINET MINISTER'S ADVICE TO A YOUNG APPLICANT FOR A POSITION.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In 1849, I owned a pack train of eight large American mules.  They were in charge of a conductor of the name of Bill Liddle.  Bill had them on the American river, packing merchandise for a trader in the northern mines.  In one case he loaded his train heavily and started for a mining camp far in the interior.  On this trip he was obliged to pass along a dangerous trail of some two miles in length.  It was cut into the side of a rugged cliff that overhung the river.  It was just wide enough for a loaded mule or horse to walk on safely, with the cliff on one side and a fearful precipice on the other.  Bill started his train in on this pass, with old Kate, a heavy, square-built bay mule, as usual, on the lead.  Old Kate was a favorite with us all.  Bill used to insist that she understood English just as well as he did, and he always addressed her as if he was sincere in this assertion, and I was often forced to laugh at the wonderful intelligence she showed in obeying him.  Sometimes, when he turned her loose in the corral and went away, she would come to the stable door, unlatch it herself, proceed directly to a bin where Bill kept barley in sacks, raise the cover, take out a sack, set it up on one end, rip the sewing as neatly as Bill could, and then stand quietly feeding out of it until she was discovered.  On these occasions Bill would shake his head, and exclaim: "I wonder who Kate is.  Oh! I wish I knew, for of course she is some famous woman, condemned to live on earth as a mule."</P>
181.sgm:<P>On the day I speak of, Bill had not advanced more than a quarter of a mile on the narrow trail, riding quietly behind his train, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Bill protested, but there was no use.  The conductor swore and talked, and then, cracking his whip, called out to his lead mule: "Get up, Sal! take the rocks; take the inside.  The right hand is ours by law.  Make a dash, old gal, and go ahead!"  Then he gave a loud halloo and again cracked his whip for an advance.  His mules seemed to know that there was danger.  Sal, the leader, hugged close to the rocks, and made an excited rush forward to get inside Kate.  Up to this time Kate had never moved a muscle, and stood just in the center of the trail as at first.  Bill feared for a moment that she did not see the danger of letting Sal get inside of her, and, again raising himself in his saddle, called out at the top of his voice: "Kate, my girl, go for them; pitch them all, and the driver with them, to h--l!"  Before Bill's order was fairly past his lips Kate gave an unearthly bray, as if in answer; at the same time she dropped on her knees, with her head stretched out close along the rocks, her neck and lower jaw rubbing the trail, and received Sal across her neck.  In a second more poor Sal was high in the air, and then soused <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>In a minute, one, two and three more of the Californians were on their headlong way to the river.  The remainder now sat back with a sulled determination not to move a step forward, which neither swearing, hallooing nor whips could shake.  Kate now arose to her feet and took her old position just as before, with her ominous ears dropped forward as though nothing had happened.  "Well," said the discomfited conductor, "I will go back, but when we get out of this trail you and I will settle accounts."  Bill made no reply, but waited patiently while the conductor turned his mules one by one on the narrow trail, and started back with five less than he had on meeting Bill's train.  Bill examined his revolver; it was all right.  He drew his knife from the sheath; it was all right.  The moment they emerged from the cliff, Bill took his revolver in hand, and, driving his spurs into his horse, was in a moment face to face with the loser of the mules, saying, with perfect coolness: "Shall we settle this business here, or shall we go before the Alcalde of the next diggings?"  Without answering at once, the man addressed took a good look into Bill's quiet, almost stolid face, and, appearing to think that Bill meant business, he answered: "Damn me, if you have not got a great look of that she-devil of a mule of yours that threw mine down down the cliff!  Are you and she any blood relations that you know of?"  Not at all offended, Bill answered: "I cannot say positively that we are, but one thing I can say, I would rather be a full brother to a mule that would act as Kate did to-day, than a forty-second cousin to a man that would act as you did."  "Well, well," said the other, "put up your damned revolver, and let us settle matters before the Alcalde.  His camp is only half a mile farther back, so I will just leave my mules <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>So terminated a claim that now-a-days would probably reach the Supreme Court for a final decision, after the amount in dispute <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>In anything I have said I do not want to give the impression that I am, in fact, in favor of having no organized State government, but when I look back to our condition here in '49, and I may include most of 1850, I feel proud of the conduct, taken as a whole, of the first immigrants to California.  If it had been such as described by the "Annals," I would have felt that our American institutions were a terrible failure, and wholly incapable of producing a great and noble people, who could govern themselves in all, and under all circumstances.  I have shown how comfortably we got on without an organized government, with nothing but our early training to guide us on, to show that we were not recreant to that early training, but most faithful to it, and fully alive to its meaning.  I will ask my young readers to let me here digress for the purpose of saying a word to induce them to enlist in the cause of reform, so much needed in the administration of our State government.  When you find yourself in a position of influence or power to do it, abolish every office in the whole State it is possible to do without, and curtail every expenditure it is possible to curtail without injury to the State.  Open the way for the offices you do retain to women, old men and the maimed.  In this way you will check the mania for office holding and hunting--a reform worth working for.  This mania is the ruin of all young men who yield to it.  Such a young man, let his talents be ever so promising, becomes a dissembler, a sneak, a sycophant; he becomes an adept in political wire-pulling.  He does not dare to express an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>From my own observations, I tell you truly, my young readers, that I would sooner see a son of mine take the position of hodcarrier for a start in life, if that were necessary, than that he should take the best paying clerkship in any government office, either State or National, or any of the petty county offices.  If you are surprised at what I say, just get some one who can remember for twenty years back to give you the history of the office holders of your own county, whatever county that may be, and after you have it I think you will adopt my views of office-holding for young men.  With women the case is otherwise, and so it is with men who have accomplished the main battle of their lives, or are physically debarred from the usual avocations of men.  I will conclude this digression from the object of my book by giving you and extract from a Washington letter I found in the <HI REND="italics">Call</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"A LIVING TOMB."</P>
181.sgm:<P>[H. V. Redfield's Washington Letter.]</P>
181.sgm:<P>All the heads of the bureaus try to discourage young men from entering the departments, as it is a life without a future.  The other day I heard a Cabinet minister talking to a young chap who wanted a place.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My young friend," said he, "don't apply.  You may not be able to pass an examination; this would be mortifying.  Save your money and your patience, and go home.  Saw wood, drive cows, anything honorable; but preserve your independence.  A clerkship here is no qualification for anything.  Not one in ten saves a dollar.  It is an expensive place to live.  Board is high and the weather hot.  I have a man in my department who has been in forty years."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Forty years?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, every day of it.  He came in 1826.  Well, he gets about the same salary that he did to commence with.  The other day he came to me saying, `I ought to have died forty years ago.'  `You don't mean that,' said I.  `Yes,' said he; `I mean that I have been buried in this building forty years, and I might as well have been buried in my grave.  What's the difference between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Yes; strictly speaking, this chapter is all a digression, but the subject came naturally and forcibly in view, while drawing to mind the good old times of the pioneers, when we had no State government to care for us or State taxes to grind us down.  I do not exactly advocate going back to that condition, but I do advocate going three-quarters of the way back, and then we will have enough, and more than enough, of government left for all practical purposes.  Do not fear, boys of California, sons of the pioneers, to strike boldly for such reforms, and be sure your success will be a glory to your native State.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>STRANGE RECOGNITIONS--STOLEN MONEY RETURNED--MONTEREY--HOSPITALITY OF ITS INHABITANTS--ITS DECAY--A FANDANGO--DON DAVID SPENSE AND DON JUAN COOPER--MEETING OF OLD FRIENDS--TALBOT H. GREEN--HIS GENEROSITY--REFUSAL OF NOMINATIONS FOR UNITED STATES SENATOR AND MAYOR--HIS MARRIAGE--RECOGNITION BY A LADY--THE DEMOCRATIC CONVENTION--GREEN'S IDENTIFICATION AS AN ABSCONDER--DENIAL OF THE CHARGE--HIS DEPARTURE FROM SAN FRANCISCO--SUBSEQUENT CAREER.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Many strange and curious recognitions occurred on this coast in 1849.  Men supposed to be long dead were discovered living here under assumed names.  I knew an instance, related to me in confidence, of this sort.  In the early part of 1850 a gentleman arrived here from Cincinnati with the intention of entering into mercantile business in this State.  While looking up a good location, he met an old acquaintance who, seven years before, had disappeared with ten thousand dollars of his money, entrusted to him to take to St. Louis.  The absconder was then doing a flourishing business under an assumed name in San Francisco, and offered to pay the whole amount with interest, on condition of perfect secrecy being observed.  This was agreed to, and half the lost money was paid down in gold, and the other half and interest was secured.  The fortunate merchant took the first return steamer for his old home, satisfied with what California had done for him.  The name of the discovered man was never made known to any one but to the lawyer chosen mutually by the parties to fix up the matter between them.  This man always bore a good reputation in this State, married an amiable lady, is now dead, having left children and a valuable estate.  It is believe that the family never knew of the one false step of the head of their house.</P>
181.sgm:<P>A more pleasing recognition was that which occurred to Don David Spense, of Monterey:</P>
181.sgm:<P>The old town of Monterey was once the most hospitable and agreeable town in the State.  Thirty years ago it could boast of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The most remarkable discovery of this nature that ever occurred in California was that in regard to Talbot H. Green, whose name will be found mixed up prominently with all early notes on California history, but in particular with the city government of San Francisco for the first three years of its organization.  In Colton's "Three Years in California" Green is referred to in this way: "Long will the good old town of Monterey lament the departure of Talbot H. Green.  His enterprise and integrity as a merchant and his benevolence as a citizen were everywhere felt.  The widow or the orphan ever found in him a generous friend."  When the South Carolina arrived in San Francisco, in June, '49, we found Green actively engaged with all that concerned the government and regulation of the city.  He had a short time previously arrived from Monterey, at which place he had for some years been connected in mercantile business with Thomas O. Larkin.  He was now a member of the prosperous firm of Howard, Mellis &amp; Co.  He was a man of plain appearance, low in stature, and square built.  In manners he was exceedingly friendly, kind and off-hand towards all.  He seemed to be a man of sterling, good common sense, and of fine judgment.  He was a good accountant, and of reasonably good education.  In all the Summer of '49 he was decidedly the most popular man of all the old Californians that we found here before us.  He was respected by all, and in nearly all disputes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:between business men, some of which involved fifty and even a hundred thousand dollars, Green was chosen as one of the arbitrators, and in very many cases as <HI REND="italics">sole</HI>
181.sgm:<P>In the Fall of 1849 he married the widow Montgomery.  They were understood to have been engaged for some time, but on one pretence or another Green deferred the marriage until, at length, very properly, no excuse could be taken, so the marriage ceremony was performed; but it was done in a private sort of a way, at Mrs. Montgomery's home by Frank Turk, who was then Assistant Alcalde of San Francisco.  Two witnesses only were present, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>On the 29th of October, 1850, the day the people celebrated the admission of California into the Union, Green had, as a matter of course, a prominent place iu the grand procession in which we all marched through the streets.  As the procession was breaking up and dispersing on the Plaza, a lady who stood looking on suddenly walked forward to Green, and in an excited, astonished way, reached out her hand saying "Oh!  Mr. Geddis, can it be possible that you are here in California?"  Green, in apparent surprise, took her hand, and said with perfect coolness: "You must be mistaken, madam, in the person.  My name is Green--Talbot H. Green."  The lady drew back abashed, but said: "Why, certainly I am not mistaken.  I cannot be mistaken; I knew you all my life.  I know your wife, your sister and your children."  A gentleman who stood by said that Green turned pale, and that a tremor shook his frame, but with a forced smile he again denied his identity with Geddis, and in a calm, quiet way outfaced the lady, so that she turned away evidently astonished and doubting.</P>
181.sgm:<P>From this time forward, vague rumors got about that Green had been discovered to be a man sailing under a false name.  No one believed the rumors or paid the least attention to them; and so matters ran on until the following year, when the Democratic party called together a convention to nominate a candidate for Mayor of the city, and all other officers of the city government.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The convention met on Saturday afternoon, and organized by electing John A. McGlynn as Chairman.  They adopted an order of business, that required the nomination for the least important office to be made first, and so continue up until they reached that of Mayor.  The well-known intention of the convention was to nominate Green for that office.  McGlynn had called on him, and he had consented to take the nomination, and his nomination was, in fact, a foregone conclusion.  Before the convention had reached the nomination for Mayor, it adjourned over until Monday evening.  On Sunday morning there appeared in a flashy, irresponsible paper an article in which it was stated that the Democrats would on Monday evening, nominate a well-known merchant for Mayor, who was sailing under a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>He was greatly agitated, but boldly asserted that he was no other than Talbot H. Green, and that it was a case of mistaken identity.  They then proposed to call with him on the proprietor of the Sunday paper and demand his authority for the publication he had made.  To this Green at once agreed.  The editor of the paper, without hesitation, gave the name of a gentleman who had lately arrived from Gettysburg, Pa.</P>
181.sgm:<P>On this person Green and his friends then called, and asked him if he had authorized the publication of the statement of the Sunday paper.  He answered: "Yes, of course I did, and Mr. Geddis knows that it is all true."  "But you are mistaken," said Green.  "I am not the man you think I am.  It is a case of mistaken identity."  His accuser looked at him with a smile of of ridicule as he replied: "Why, Paul, what nonsense you are talking.  You and I knew each other from our childhood up; <HI REND="italics">you know</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Green's friends were now thrown into doubt, and it appeared to them that the accusation against him must be true; so, on again reaching the street, they besought him to come out candidly, and assured him that they would put up $25,000 each--or more, if necessary--to clear him from any debt he might owe the bank, and that they would in every way stand by him with brotherly fidelity.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>It is said that while Green listened to these generous offers of money and friendship he shook as if in an ague fit, and tears flowed fast over his cheek; yet, through it all, his only answer was that the charge was false, and that he would prove to them that it was so.</P>
181.sgm:<P>During the day (Monday) Green called on John A. McGlynn, and related to him just what I have told of this interview with his accuser, and then gave McGlynn the same assurance of the falsity of the charge.  In this conversation with McGlynn he told him that it was his intention to leave for Panama the next day by steamer, on his way to his old home, in Pennsylvania, where he was going, he said, to get the necessary proofs to contradict the charges made against him.  He then continue: "I want you, Mack, to give me the nomination for Mayor this evening, and I will then address you a letter declining it, thanking the convention for the honor intended, and that will give me the opportunity I want to denounce this scandal about me as false."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In this interview McGlynn said that Green showed great excitement and anxiety of mind.  McGlynn had always been a warm personal friend of Green's, and promised to do what he requested with regard to the nomination for Mayor; but when the Convention met they had such a struggle over the nomination of the other city officers that the whole evening was spent, and the Convention again adjourned until Tuesday evening, without reaching the nomination for the position of Mayor.  On Tuesday morning it was rumored all around that Talbot H. Green's friends were requested to meet him at a large auction room on Montgomery street, and from there to escort him to the steamer that was to take him to Panama.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At the time named the large room was full to its utmost capacity.  There was a large quantity of champagne opened, and Thomas O. Larkin got upon a table in the midst of the crowd, holding a glass of champagne in his hand.  He gave the following as the sentiment of the meeting: "May the most honest man among us all here assembled be as honest, and always remain as honest, as we believe Talbot H. Green to be."  All drank the toast, and gave three rousing cheers for Green.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Green was now loudly called for.  He got on the table, but as soon as he began to return thanks, his feelings overcame him, and not a word could he utter.  His emotion was such that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As to Green's subsequent career, I can only state it as known to the general public, which I suppose to be in the main corrcct.  Before leaving he conveyed a large part of his property to his California wife, Mrs. Montgomery that was, and his one child born of her.  The remainder he intrusted to the care of his friend Thompson.  He took with him, it is said, some $20,000 in drafts and gold.  At the time of his departure he was one of the Commissioners of the Fund of Debt of San Francisco.  He also held various other trusts, both private and public, all of which he resigned before leaving.  On board the steamer, while shaking hands with his friends, he had more than once to stop to sign a resignation to one of these sort of trusts.  For over a year after he left, no word or tidings of his whereabouts reached his San Francisco friends, and many supposed him dead.  Sam Brannan was most active in trying to discover what had become of him.  The last trace that could be found of him was in New Orleans, where he had his drafts cashed and where it was found he had registered his name at the hotel as T. Green.  At length he was discovered in Cincinnati, it is said, without a dollar.  Brannan and some two or three of Green's old friends wrote to him and got him to consent to meet them in the City of New York.  This meeting did take place, and after it some of the parties went to Gettysburg and settled in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>It was announced that he was to return to San Francisco and go into business with Sam Brannan.  In 1854 he did come back, but he looked broken down and wretched.  He appeared to shun every one, and every one shunned him.  I met him once after his return.  We had been very intimate friends.  The meeting was embarrassing and awkward.  I did not know how to address him.  With me Talbot H. Green was no longer in existence, and as to the poor, weak creature, Paul Geddis, I did not care for his acquaintance; so, without addressing him once by name, we parted.  He soon left California, but has appeared here since more than once.  But what has become of him in the end I have no knowledge.  When Green's friends visited Gettysburg they found the debt he owed the bank to be insignificant--less than $10,000.  Geddis, it appears, was of one of the first families of that old town.  His wife was an accomplished lady, and when he disappeared from there he had three lovely children.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Being about to visit Philadelphia, it is said, he was intrusted by the local bank with $7,000 of city bank notes.  These he was to have got redeemed in the city and return the gold to the bank.  On reaching the city of Philadelphia, he was entrapped into a gambling den and lost all his own money and nearly all that of the bank.  Filled with despair and fright, he changed his name and pushed his way West.  West, West he flew from fancied pursuers, until he finds himself Talbot H. Green, a valuable clerk in the employment of Thomas O. Larkin, in Monterey, California.  Riches came to him fast after his move to San Francisco from Monterey in 1849.  Now plans of sending the money home to the bank and of returning to his wife and children came constantly to his mind; but from day to day he deferred the good act that his guardian angel urged on him, and then objections seemed to come in his way.  What excuse could be given to Howard and Mellis, his partners, for drawing so large a sum on private account?  How could he ever tell them that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:had assumed a false name?  "Oh, wait, wait," said the devil.  "Next week will be time enough to send the money;" and "next week" and "next week" it was all the time.  Then came another trouble.  He is tempted, he yields, and is married.  "Merciful Heaven," we fancy him to exclaim.  "All is lost.  Wife and children are dishonored.  I must never meet or see them again."  Poor Talbot H. Green!  '49ers never harbor an unkind feeling towards you, and always sigh when they speak of your terrible, sudden downfall, though we <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
181.sgm:<P>In all this account of Green, of course there may be some errors, but there are none in the main facts, for they are given as known to us all.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>WAGES AND MERCHANDISE--A SLOW ENGLISH FIRM--A CUSTOMER FOR BOWIE KNIVES--A SHREWD SPECULATION IN SHEETINGS.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now let me add a word on some more of the misrepresentations of the "Annals."  On page 253 tell us that:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Laborers' wages were a dollar an hour; skilled mechanics received from twelve to twenty dollars a day."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Pages 366-367, on "Merchandise," they say:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Matters were, perhaps, not quite so bad as when, in the Spring of 1850, chests of tobacco were used to pave the streets or make a solid foundation for houses, and when nearly every article of merchandise went a-begging for buyers, and not finding one, was cast aside to rot or used to fill up mudholes."***  "In '49 a dollar was paid for a pill, and the same sum for an egg; a hundred dollars for a pair of boots, and twice that for a decent suit of clothes.  A single rough brick cost a dime, and a plank some twenty feet long was cheap at ten dollars.  At one period of that monstrous year common iron tacks of the smallest size sold for their weight in gold, and for a long period were in request at from five to ten dollars an ounce, but in '51 bales of valuable goods were sometimes not worth the storage."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As to this statement about wages, divide it by two and it will be about the truth.  As to merchandise, the whole statement is an absurdity.  I did business in San Francisco all that time, and ought, therefore, to know what I am talking about.  The only foundation for the statement that a large quantity of tobacco and other merchandise was thrown in the streets as valueless, is that the first rains of 1849 destroyed a large quantity of tobacco not properly protected, belonging to White, McGlynn &amp; Co.; and some other importing houses also lost heavily in the same way.  These goods were sent to auction, but at that time Californians would buy nothing damaged where goods in perfect order could be had, so not a bid was offered; and the goods were finally pitched into the street to fill up mud-holes.  There never <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>I cannot but think that a famous English firm, S., J. &amp; Co., doing business on the corner of California and Sansome streets in 1849, was an example of this sort.  They had a large stock of English imported goods.  The building in which they did business was a remarkably good one for '49.  The whole first story was filled to the ceiling with merchandise, and besides there was an immense pile of unbleached sheetings and shirtings in the inclosure belonging to the store.  I should think there must have been 2,000 bales of these goods piled up in this lot, close to the store.  These gentlemen did business in the old English style.  Their counting room was in the second story, a large room, with a part of it partitioned off for a private office.  The store was opened every day precisely at nine o'clock, and closed precisely at half-past three each afternoon.  When a customer made his appearance, the salesman, an intelligent young Englishman, whose name, I think, was Frederick Ayers, received him and with politeness conducted him to the presence of one of the firm in the private office, where the customer was expected to lay aside his hat while he talked over his business.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Of course, no Californian would submit to this sort of nonsense, and the consequence was that poor S., J. &amp; Co. did no business worth speaking of.  Their clerk, as I have said, was a bright young man.  He soon discovered his employers' difficulty, and did his best to open their eyes; but he might just as well have proposed to them to turn Mahometans as to adopt the Californian style of doing business.  I recollect he once gave me an amusing description of a scene that occurred in the counting-room of this firm.  It was about as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just as we opened in the morning, in walked a good humored, well-built man, in manners and rig the California miner to the life.  As he entered he exclaimed: "Here, chap, where are the two old cocks they say keep this shebang.  I have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"No, sir; no one is dead.  What do you wish, sir?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I am glad of that, for when a fellow dies here in California, there is always a great loss of time in burying him.  What a pity it is that when a fellow does die he cannot manage to bury himself.  It would save the living so much; for time, you know, here in California, is too precious to be thrown away on dead men.  Well, but, just as I was saying, my business is this: I met Bartol the other day--you know Bartol.  He says he is a sort of clerk of yours, as well as being a Custom House officer, and besides a city Alderman.  Well, he told me that these old English coons who keep this shanty had just received a consignment of handsome bowie-knives from their country.  I am in the trading business in the southern mines, and I think the knives, from what Bartol says, will do our boys first rate.  I will take a few dozen, and perhaps all they have, if the cost don't outsize my pile."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will inquire," said I, as I turned towards the door of the office.  Just then Mr. S. appeared in the doorway, dressed of course in the old English gentleman's style, and holding in his hand a copy of the London <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"I hear what he says, Fred.," said the miner, as he walked past me straight into the private office, and threw himself, in a careless way, into a vacant easy chair, just opposite to the one in which Mr. S. was now seated.  Of course he did not remove his hat, and Mr. S. continued to read his paper, without once looking towards the intruder, who now said: "Say, friend, I cannot wait until to-morrow.  I have been in San Francisco now nearly a whole day, and that is a d--d long time to be away from my business, so I must be back to my camp to-morrow sure; and I would just as leave pack home some of those 'ere English knives Bartol told me about if they are the right sort, for I have dust left after purchasing my other goods.  It is down here at Burgons &amp; Co.'s bank, and I hate to take it back home, and I know the boys want the knives; so, if you have a mind to, friend, Fred and I will knock open one of these here packages while you take a squint at the English invoice, and we can tell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>The merchant now slowly raised his eyes from the newspaper, and let them fall on the miner, with a cold, severe expression, in which disgust had a share, as he said, in a tone of voice suited to his indignant feelings: "The goods you speak of, sir, will be opened for inspection to-morrow, precisely at twelve o'clock, as I have already told Mr. Frederick Ayers to tell you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And that is your answer, Mr. S.?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir," slowly replied Mr. S.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And what the devil use will it be to me, when I will not be here to see them?" said the miner, as he arose from his seat and walked out.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When passing me, he beckoned me to follow him.  I did so, and, just as we reached the stairway, he turned round to me and said: "Fred, I never saw you before in my life, but I like you, and I just want to tell you to keep a sharp look-out for your pay, for these old cocks of yours are sure to bust up.  Nothing can save them, not if they had Queen Victoria and the Bank of England at their backs."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When I returned to the counting-room, Mr. S. called to me, saying: "Frederick, where did you know that impudent Yankee that has just left here?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I never saw him before, sir."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, he called you Fred?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; he heard you call me Frederick, so he caught up the name and used it in his own familiar way, as though he had always known me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, well; how can a gentleman live and do business here in this town, and put up with such confounded Yankee impudence?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the early part of 1849 there was but little demand for unbleached sheeting, or drilling, or in fact for any kind of cotton goods.  It was only used for lining cheaply constructed houses, and, as almost every importing house had a few bales on hand, S., J. &amp; Co.'s large stock of these goods remained for a long time almost unbroken.  Suddenly the demand became immense.  The miners found that by using it they could dam almost any stream in a very cheap and quick way.  They made bags with it, and filled the bags with earth, and with them constructed a dam that would turn the largest stream in half the time and with half <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:the expense it would cost in any other way.  S., J. &amp; Co. found no notice of this sudden demand for sheeting in the London <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, yes, my dear sir; you are right.  Frederick, hand me that box of extra Havanas."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The cigars came, and then began a social smoke.  Then came a bottle of nice port wine, and, after half an hour of chat of every sort, T. arose to go, but just then he suddenly exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I was near forgetting that my partners wanted I should ask you for what you could let us have, say, twenty bales of those sheetings, as we find ourselves in a position to job them out in the mining districts."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, my dear fellow," exclaimed Mr. S., "you would do us a world of accommodation if you would help us to work off those sheetings.  They are a most unfortunate importation.  We will put them to you at home cost, Mr. T. Frederick, bring me the invoice book."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The book is opened; the cost is found to be very low.  Mr. T. says, in a careless way: "Give me a bill for twenty bales, and I will give you a check for the amount."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While Frederick is making out the bill, T. falls into a conversation about an English lord, who had died some six months before, but interrupts himself to say: "If you wish you can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, my good fellow.  Frederick, put that indorsement on Mr. T.'s bill, and if you wish, Mr. T., we will make a sale to you of the whole lot, to be taken and paid for at the rate of twenty bales a week at the same figure."</P>
181.sgm:<P>T. seemed to hesitate, but, after a puff or two on his cigar, he exclaimed: "Well, do so.  I will take a trip into the mines myself, if it is necessary to push them; so you had better tear that bill up for the twenty bales, and give me a bill for the whole lot, and credit on it the money I have just paid you, and each week I will send you a check for the same amount until it is all paid; and I will take the goods away as fast as I make sale of them.  I was hesitating because I thought I ought to consult my partners before making so large a purchase; but, if they grumble, I will take it on my own account."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The bill was duly made out and handed to T., who placed it with a trembling, excited hand, in his pocket-book.  All was now satisfactory, and, with a warm shake-hands, they parted.  After T. left, Mr. S. arose, and, rubbing his hands with evident satisfaction, exclaimed to his partner: "Well, J., that surely is a lucky transaction this morning."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, yes; so it is, S.  I give you great credit for the way you drew T. into it; that port wine did no harm, either.  I saw after he took a second glass that he became very sanguine as to what he could do with the sheetings; but there was nothing wrong in that little strategy of using the wine, as it is our duty to do the best we can for our consignors."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; that was my view of it, J.; but I must say that T. is a most gentlemanly fellow.  He would really pass among our English educated merchants.  I do hope he will be able to struggle through after this transaction with us to-day."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said T., to his partners, as he reached his place of business in Sacramento street, "I have had a fine cigar, enjoyed a bottle of the best port wine in San Francisco, and got a bill of sale of every yard of sheetings that S., J. &amp; Co. have on hand, at their home cost.  What do you think of that?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Think of it," said Mc.; I don't <HI REND="italics">think</HI>
181.sgm: anything about it; I <HI REND="italics">know</HI>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, more than that," said the other partner, M.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The only drawback to my whole visit and trade," continued T., "was that I had to talk about half a dozen old English lords that the devil took to himself this last year or so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>That purchase is said to have been the foundation of T., Mc. &amp; Co.'s great success in business, and perhaps the primary cause of the failure, which took place some months later, of S., J. &amp; Co.</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>JOHN W. GEARY--HISTORY OF HIS ADVANCEMENTS--AS ALCALDE AND AS MAYOR.</P>
181.sgm:<P>There is but one other subject worth attention treated of in the "Annals."  It is the memoirs of the men who, in the estimation of their authors, were the great lights of 1849.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The first memoir is that of John W. Geary, with a handsome steel engraving of that gentleman.  I dislike exceedingly to say of this memoir what the truth of history demands, for Colonel Geary managed his way through the world with consummate skill, and succeeded, some way or other, always to work himself into places of honor and profit.  After he left California, we find him successful in his application to President Lincoln for a post of honor as a territorial Governor, and then we find him a General in the army, and then we see the great State of Pennsylvania placing him in her gubernatorial chair.  All these honors conferred and worn well, it is claimed by his friends, should guard his memory, now that he is dead, from any examination as to his worthiness of the honors he succeeded in grasping.  I have no disposition to make any such examination; but, in justice to us '49ers and to you, our children, I insist on my right to give a true and faithful picture of Colonel John W. Geary, as he was known to us in San Francisco in 1849.  Even this I would not think necessary to do if the authors of the "Annals" had been any way moderate in their misstatements of facts with regard to his life in San Francisco.  They are not satisfied, however, in this memoir, with an exhibition of sickening, fulsome flattery, but to exalt Geary they insult and seek to degrade in the eyes of their readers the whole community in which he lived.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Look again at the quotation from page 719 of the "Annals," and judge if I am justified in what I say of the position of the authors in this memoir of Geary.  It is a sort of a description, <HI REND="italics">in brief</HI>
181.sgm:, of the immigration to this State in 1849, from which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>According to the "Annals'" account of the part Colonel Geary took in the reduction of Mexico, his name should have been known to us all as familiarly as that of General Scott.  The fact is, if this "Annals'" account is correct, Geary was a little ahead of Scott in all that makes a hero on the battlefield.  Be this as it may, I do not propose to discuss it here.  If he won laurels in Mexico, there is no wish on my part to displace a leaf from the wreath that may be upon his brow.  But it is a fact that when he appeared among us in 1849, in San Francisco, with the commission of Postmaster in his pocket, we were until then totally ignorant of the existence of such a man as John W. Geary, much less of this wonderful hero of the Mexican War.  If the authors of the "Annals" had written truly the memoirs of Colonel Geary, instead of the fulsome nonsense they strung together, the California chapter of it would have been about as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>Colonel John W. Geary, last American Alcalde and first Mayor of San Francisco, arrived here in the steamship Oregon on April the 1st, 1849, with the commission of President Polk as Postmaster of San Francisco in his pocket.  He was accompanied by his wife and one child.  Colonel Geary had served, it was said, with some credit in the Mexican War, as Colonel of one of the Pennsylvania regiments.  As to money or property, he had not a dollar on his arrival in San Francisco.  In personal appearance, he was a good-looking man, with quiet, unassuming manners.  He was evidently desirous of pleasing, and, although he did not succeed in attaching to himself warm personal friends, yet, by a sort of Uriah Heepism in his way of talking to you, he disarmed all active opposition to any of his schemes.  He had nothing of the bold, dashing Colonel about him.  His voice was always low and passionless.  His step was noiseless and cautious, and you would often hear him speak your name before you heard his footfall.  If, from this sort of manner, you should get an idea that he was easily moved from an object he had in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>At this time he gave great offense to the real, bona fide American Californians by sending his wife and two children, one born here, back to Pennsylvania.  To those who remonstrated with him against this step, he gave assurances that he sent them away because he could not stand the expense they were to him here, but promised that just as soon as his prospects grew bright he would again bring them to California.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Geary served as Alcalde until the new city charter of May 1, 1850, required the election of a Mayor, when, by making earnest appeals to prominent citizens, he received the Democratic nomination to that position, and was elected by a handsome majority.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In this contest he was very much aided by Talbot H. Green, whose popularity was then at its height, though so soon to disappear forever.  After his term of office as Mayor expired, he received what proved to him to be a much better office--the position of Commissioner of the Funded Debt.  This position he held up to the date of his departure from California, February, 1852, when he left the State for good.  Colonel Geary's career in California was a wonderful success, so far as he personally was concerned.  He came to our State, according to his oft-repeated assertions, without a dollar.  He was never engaged in any trading or business while he was here.  The legitimate earnings of the offices he held could not have been over $10,000 a year, yet when he left the State, after a stay of two years and ten months, he was worth, at the very least estimate, $200,000 in coin, and most people estimated him as being worth a much larger sum.  Unfortunately for him, he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Had the "Annals" given the above as the life of Colonel Geary in San Francisco, I would not have troubled myself to say a word about him; but these authors have the impudence to deck Colonel Geary out as a political saint, who was endowed with wonderful talents, and who used those talents with generous unselfishness in governing a community who were all known to be thieves, vagabonds and blacklegs--for this is the plain English of the quotation I made from page 719 of their book.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Let me draw attention to some of the swindles of the office-holding gang in San Francisco in 1849 and '50, and even later, and see where our <HI REND="italics">saint</HI>
181.sgm: Geary stood on such occasions.  Almost the first act of the Ayuntamiento, as organized under Colonel Geary as Alcalde, was to pass what was called "An Ordinance for Revenue."  This was as infamous an attempt to rob, under color of law, the newcomers, as could be devised by thieves.  It is worth while to read Horace Hawes' "veto message" relating to this act.  You will find it on page 224 of the proceedings of the Ayuntamiento, as published by order of the Board of Supervisors in 1860.  It was no part of Hawes' duty, of course, to send "veto messages" to the Ayuntamiento, for he was only Prefect; but neither had that body the right to enact any such thieving ordinance, so he took the responsibility and did the best act of his life when he checkmated the gang in their villainous project.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:when, soon afterwards, it was burned to the ground, and Peter Smith got the lot the building stood on, in one of his swindling sales of city property.  Graham, who owned this property, was a member of the Council, but modestly did not vote on the purchase.  Frank Tilford was also a member, and refused to vote.  Matthew Crooks voted against it and denounced it as a swindle.  Every one of the other members--five in number--were <HI REND="italics">directly or indirectly</HI>
181.sgm: interested in the purchase being made.  Where was our saint's voice as he sat in the chair that day?  Then came the enormous wharf swindles, when money was voted by the hundred thousand, at a meeting, to build wharves that were never built.  Nearly $500,000 was voted away at that time on this pretence, and all the people got in return was three miserable bulkheads--one at the foot of Pacific street, one on Market street and one on California street.  Not one of these was worthy the name of <HI REND="italics">wharf</HI>
181.sgm:<P>But, perhaps, it will be said: "See how Colonel Geary fought Hawes and Justice Colton, when they began to steal the city property, or give it away."  And, further, it may be said, "See how boldly Geary fought the Peter Smithites."  Yes; he fought both these thieving factions desperately.  Hawes he completely beat from the field, and before the other he beat a retreat, after making a good fight.  But why did he fight them?  Because these two factions--the Hawes faction and the Peter Smith faction--were rivals of his faction, in stripping the city of her property, and he had to drive them from the field, or quit himself.  When the Peter Smithites triumphed, it appeared to Geary that "all in sight" was stolen, in this terrible wholesale grab of the Smith faction; so he left the State.</P>
181.sgm:<P>But in this Geary did not show his usual foresight; for within the following few years swindles that for magnitude and unblushing effrontery would compare favorably with even the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>It may be asked if the auction sale of city property under the auspices of Geary &amp; Co. were not fairly conducted.  I tell you, NO; for there was a villainous fraud practiced on the unsophisticated outsiders by the surveyor of this ring.  You must recollect that, at the time of these sales, the whole city, east of California street, south and west of Kearny street, and north and west of Pacific street, was a confused mass of sandhills and valleys, and that it was impossible by the eye to tell the true location of any of the proposed streets beyond the limits I have named.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Eddy, the surveyor, ran out all the streets by actual survey, and mapped them properly.  In making his survey, when he came to where lots were in a favorable location, he put a <HI REND="italics">private</HI>
181.sgm:<P>After the sale, Eddy, on being paid to do so, went with the purchasers and showed each his lot, and then put down stakes properly numbered, so as to correspond with the number on the map.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When I saw the number put on the lots I had intended to purchase, I went to the Surveyor's office to see who had purchased them.  I there found that the purchaser was a merchant, a friend of mine.  I called on him, and asked him what he would take for these lots I wanted.  He said: "Five hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"I would have been in the same fix," said he, "but a friend of mine, who has a way of getting the secrets of the ring that is running the city business, got me a sight at Eddy's <HI REND="italics">private</HI>
181.sgm:<P>And then, again, the ring owned the auctioneer, and no outsider's bid <HI REND="italics">was heard</HI>
181.sgm:<P>For this, I refer you to page 239 of the same published proceedings of the Ayuntamiento.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Brannan, on one occasion, tried to have himself appointed auctioneer.  (See page 79 of the published proceedings.)  But, failing in this, he got, what did him just as well, his partner's brother-in-law, George B. Tyler, appointed.  Tyler worked for the city in this capacity of auctioneer just two days.  He was altogether unfit for the position, and was a mere tool of the ring.  And what do you think did the ring pay him out of the city funds for these two days' work?  I refer you to page 153 of same proceedings, and you will find that they paid him the snug little sum of $17,100.  Matthew Crooks and one other voted against this swindle.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Where was our saint, Colonel Geary, that day?</P>
181.sgm:<P>He is recorded as presiding over that meeting, and it is a fact that he used his influence to aid Brannan in having Tyler allowed the enormous pay.  But, perhaps, it will be remarked that in the recorded amount of city property sold at auction, no lots appear as bid in by Colonel Geary.  Such is the case, undoubtedly; but it came out afterwards that Geary was one of the largest purchasers at those auction sales, the lots being bid off in the name of one of the Ross brothers and other friends who lent him their names for the purpose.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The authors of the "Annals" say Geary came here "friendless and a stranger."  How is this?  He came here with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>All the rest of us '49ers came here at that time friendless and strangers to each other, without even the commission of Postmaster in our pockets to introduce us to the community.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When reading over this memoir of Geary, a '49er cannot help thinking sometimes that the authors intended, by their extravagance and absurdity, to ridicule Colonel Geary.  Among other absurd, untrue, things they tell us of, is their assertion that the child born to Mrs. Geary in April, 1849, was the first male child of purely American parents, that was born in San Francisco after the cession of California to the United States.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The author should have told us what all the other American mothers were about who were here long before Mrs. Geary, to allow this honor to fall to her.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I have reviewed this memoir more extensively than I intended, but my wish is that all should understand what is the true early history of our State; and, when I place things in a new or different light from what you have before viewed them, then I trust you will investigate such points for yourself, and determine how far I am correct in what I tell you.  The truth is, Geary sent his family home because he made up his mind to leave the State just as soon as he could make "a stake" to go home with.  His whole career here was intensely selfish.  He never believed in California.  He never liked California.  In two years and ten months he amassed a fortune out of his official positions in San Francisco, and then left the State forever.  This "Annals" memoir, with its handsome steel engraving of Geary, it is said, was the foundation of his success in politics when he returned East, both with President Lincoln and his fellow citizens of Pennsylvania.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The next memoir is that of Charles J. Brenham, second and fourth Mayor of San Francisco, accompanied by a very good likeness in wood of that gentleman.  If the reader inquire, I think he will find that old Californians and '49ers will indorse every word of praise bestowed by the authors of the "Annals" on Captain Brenham.  It does us good to recall his memory; he was always so open, frank and generous in his intercourse with his fellow citizens.  I have so often been obliged to quote from the "Annals," for the purpose of disproving their position, that it gives pleasure now to quote for the purpose of indorsing what they say:</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"During Mr. Brenham's whole official career not the slightest imputation was ever made impugning the purity of his motives or his strict integrity.  He was never interested in any way pecuniarily with any speculation connected with the city.  He never availed himself of his position for the purpose of personal aggrandizement.  No one ever has performed, or ever will perform, the duties of an office with more purity of purpose, and with a greater regard for the true interests of the city, than did Mr. Brenham.  He retired from his office without the slightest taint of suspicion."****</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Brenham held office, and possessed the power of turning his position into a medium of great, though dishonorable gains.  It is but just to give him the due meed of praise, and say to him who has justly done his duty to his fellow citizens and himself: `Well done, thou good and faithful servant.'"</P>
181.sgm:<P>No; Captain Brenham did not go into office poor and come out rich, as others had done.  He is now in a far better world, let us hope and believe, and has left to his children the proud, priceless inheritance of an untarnished name.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Next comes the memoir of Stephen R. Harris, third Mayor of San Francisco, accompanied by a woodcut portrait that is not a good likeness, and does him injustice in that respect.  The memoir itself is hardly up in praise to the estimate the Doctor has universally been held in by his fellow citizens in California.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then comes the memoir of C. K. Garrison, fifth Mayor of San Francisco, with a very good likeness in wood.  The memoir consists of a little family history, which we suppose in the main to be correct.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then comes the memoir of Sam Brannan, of whom a very flattering woodcut is given.  This memoir, for effrontery and impudence, outdoes the memoir of Geary, and for misrepresentation nearly comes up to the Geary story.  Brannan's early life shows him to be a bold, daring, reckless man in every position into which he threw himself, whether as leader of the Mormons around Cape Horn, or as doing business for them afterwards in San Francisco and at Sutter's Fort; or as a member of the Town Council of Sacramento or San Francisco--he exhibited a tyrannical, overbearing and grasping disposition.  He opposed public plunder, and made a great outcry when he was to have no share in its fruits; but when he was "in," it was quite another matter.  He was a prime mover in the famous revenue ordinance business vetoed by Hawes.  He was a member of the Ayuntamiento when most of those plundering auction sales of city property were planned and carried through (see page 88 of proceedings of City Council), where by four votes he carried through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Sam collected large sums of money, in the way of tithes, from his fellow Mormons during the first years of his life in California.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here is what General Sherman says of him, in his own memoir, on page 53:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I remember that Mr. Clark was in camp talking to Colonel Mason about matters and things generally, when he inquired: `Governor, what business has Sam Brannan to collect the tithes here?'  Clark admitted that Brannan was the head of the Mormon Church in California, and he was simply questioning as to Brannan's right, as High Priest, to compel the Mormons to pay him the regular tithes.  Colonel Mason answered: `Brannan has a perfect right to collect the tax if you Mormons are fools enough to pay it.'  `Then,' said Clark, `I, for one, won't pay it any longer.'  Colonel Mason added: `This is public land, and the gold is the property of the United States.  All of you here are trespassers; but, as the Government is benefited by your getting out the gold, I don't intend to interfere.'  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>It is further told of Sam that Brigham Young, on hearing of these collections, sent to him for the proceeds; but Sam sent back word to Brigham that he had collected considerable sums of money from the Mormons in the name of the Lord, and that as soon as the Lord called on him for the money he would pay it over; but that he would hold on to it until the Lord did call.</P>
181.sgm:<P>If this story is true, it shows that Brigham met his match, for once at least, in his deputy, our Sam Brannan.  In 1864, the Republican party needed money for campaign uses in the Presidential contest of that year.  This induced them to put Sam, who was then rich, on the electoral ticket.  The Democrats hit at some of Sam's supposed failings, by caricaturing him on a transparency in one of their torchlight processions.  He was represented as marching to battle against the rebels with a bottle of whisky in one hand a pack of cards in the other, with this inscription: "Sam Brannan's weapons of warfare."  The Republicans enjoyed this take-off as did the Democrats.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Sam; it is said that the Lord did call for that money, after all.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As I will not in this volume again refer, in detail, to the frauds practiced on us in early times, I wish here to say that in my review of the memoirs of Geary and Brannan, I did not refer to a hundreth part of the swindles carried through every department of the city government at that time.  What San Francisco '49er can forget the harassing frauds practiced on him while Mr. Dennis McCarthy was Street Superintendent?  It would take a whole chapter to tell you the half of them.  Who can forget that cunning ex-office-holder of New York City, Moses G. Lenard, who got a place in the Board of Aldermen on great professions of reform and honesty of purpose, but who took every chance to aggrandize himself, and succeeded in the end in getting seventy or eighty thousand dollars for building a bulkhead at the foot of Market street, useless in its character, and not worth ten thousand dollars to build, at the outside?  Lenard and McCarthy both left us, with their pockets well filled, to figure, of course, like others of the same way of acting, at annual dinners in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The next memoir is that of Captain Folsom.  The Captain was known to us '49ers as a cold, austere, unsocial sort of a man; but we never doubted his fidelity to the Government.  His action in the matter of the Leidesdorff estate, and also his action in the sale of Government stores, just after gold-dust began to appear as a circulating medium in California, caused many to bitterly denounce him, though in both cases they may have done him injustice.  I will give the facts as current in San Francisco in 1849, in relation to both these matters, and all can judge of them for themselves: Soon after the discovery of gold, in the fall of '47 or early in '48, provisions and clothing became very scarce, and commanded fabulous prices.  The General Government, at that time, had a large amount of clothing and provisions in California, in charge of Captain Folsom.  The war was over, so there was no prospect of these stores being needed at any time in the near future.  Gov. Mason, then in command in California, ordered the supplies condemned and sold at public sale.  Captain Folsom accordingly advertised them for sale.  The day of sale came, and there was a perfect rush of miners and traders from all directions to the place of sale.  They came weighed down with bags of gold dust, which they were willing to let go at the value of ten dollars per ounce, when its least true value was sixteen dollars.  None had gold coin to offer, for there was hardly any in circulation.  Captain Folsom was known to hold a large amount of coin belonging to the United States Government, sent out to pay off the sailors and soldiers, now being discharged.  When the sale opened, the auctioneer announced that nothing but gold <HI REND="italics">coin</HI>
181.sgm:<P>The story of Captain Leidesdorff, as related to me soon after his death by an old friend of his, is romantic as well as very sad.  Whenever I visit San Francisco, and find myself walking in the street that bears his name, it comes to my memory.  If my recollection is good, it is about as follows:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The father here interrupted him, and in an off-hand manner assured him that he had the utmost confidence in his honor, and was fully satisfied with his explanation, and that no disrespect was meant, and concluded by saying that if Mrs. Leidesdorff and his daughter both favored his suit, it should also have his hearty concurrence.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the joy of hearing these words, Leidesdorff forgot his secret, and, grasping Mr. L.'s hand, he poured out the warmest thanks for the kind manner in which he had been received.  Now his secret came back to him, but all courage to reveal it was gone.  Before parting with Hortense's father, it was settled that he should call the next day at Mr. L.'s residence for his final answer.  Yes; to-morrow, when he called, he would confess his secret, and so he planned and so he believed he would do, as he turned his head from side to side all that night on a pillow where he found no sleep.  He did call at the appointed hour, and found himself received without formality by the whole household as the accepted lover of the darling of the house.  Again the good resolution failed, and, yielding to the enchanting sweets of the moment, he revealed nothing.  Now he tried to drive the voice of honor, ever whispering reproaches, out of hearing, and to give up thoughts of ever telling his secret.  He placed a beautiful diamond ring on the finger of his betrothed.  Nearly every evening found him by her side.  The marriage day was fixed, and with charming blushes Hortense asked him to assist in some of the preparations.  When with her he was happy to intoxication; when away, his secret would come and sink him to the depths of misery.  Day by day the voice of honor grew louder and louder.  He became pale and haggard, and now Hortense began to see the change, for sometimes his manner, even to her, became excited and incoherent.  Then she summoned courage to speak to him about it.  At first he avoided her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I am prepared now, William," she said.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, but I have not the courage to-day, Hortense; to-morrow you shall know it, if I live."</P>
181.sgm:<P>That night Leidesdorff dreamed that his benefactor appeared to him and reproached him with the dishonor of withholding the secret from Hortense and her family.  He awoke with a cold perspiration streaming from every pore.  Now a firm determination to reveal all came to his mind, such as he had never before felt.  That evening found him alone with Hortense.  He was remarkably calm in his manner, but the keen eyes of Hortense detected the true state of his mind, hidden beneath this unusual calmness.  Her heart sank from an undefined apprehension.  This she tried to shake off, and walked to the piano, saying, with an effort to smile pleasantly: "Here, Willie, I have been practicing a new song; let me sing it for you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Without waiting for an answer, she let her fingers fall on the keys of the instrument, and, after a brilliant prelude, raised her voice in a song with more power and sweetness than he had ever thought could come from human voice.  The song told a sad story of disappointed love, and was mournful beyond conception, and as she sang Hortense's whole soul seemed poured out in sympathy with the theme of the song.  Leidesdorff always said, when telling of this circumstance, that, when in any sort of difficulty in after life, he could plainly hear Hortense singing that song, and that it never wholly left his ears.  As she finished singing, she turned to look on her lover.  He sat as pale as death, with his eyes fixed on hers, in admiration in which there was a mixture of terror.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I have frightened you with that sad song, I see; but never mind, William, I but followed a foolish inclination in singing it, for do you know," and here she dropped her voice almost to a whisper, "I dreamed last night that I sang that song for you, and that you then told me your secret, and that it was the last song I ever sang in my life.  How strange, was it not?  Now, tell me the secret.  That song, you know, is the spell that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Leidesdorff seemed transfixed and speechless, and Hortense continued: "William, keep your promise, and let me share the secret with you.  It will be as safe with your Hortense, you know, as with yourself."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The next day Leidesdorff received a package from Hortense's father, enclosing all the presents he had ever made Hortense, including, of course, the magnificent diamond engagement ring poor Hortense had received with such joy.  With the package came a formal note dissolving all acquaintance between Leidesdorff and the family of the proud man.  This freezing note aroused Leidesdorff from the moping lethargy into which the parting scene with Hortense had sunk him.  Stung to the quick, he felt himself insulted and dishonored, and knowing, full well, that from this day forward he would be classed in New Orleans with the degraded race to which his mother in part belonged, he at once determined to leave that city forever.  He sold out all his property, bought a fine ship, and freighted her with goods, intending to find a new home on the shores or islands of the far-off, lonesome Pacific Ocean.  A day or two before his ship was ready for sea, he was hurrying down Canal street, on his way to the river where his ship lay, when suddenly a funeral came in sight.  To avoid passing it, he stepped into a dry goods store just at hand.  The white, waving plumes on the hearse, indicating that it was some one in the pride of youth that had been cut down, caught his eye and caused him to heave a sigh and to look closer at the carriage in mourning that followed.  Great Heavens! what did it mean?  The foremost carriage was that of the family of L.  Turning quickly to the owner of the store, he exclaimed, "My God! whose funeral is that?"  "Oh, the funeral of the young lady, Miss L., who came so near being married to a mulatto young man.  She died yesterday, they say, from the shock."  Leidesdorff dropped into a chair near him, and covered his face with his hands in an agony of grief.  "Ah, a friend of yours, sir," said the man, in a soft, pitying voice.  Then he poured out a glass of brandy and urged him to take it.  Trembling in every limb, Leidesdorff swallowed the drink, and, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>After years spent in roving from port to port and island to island in the Pacific ocean, circumstances led Leidesdorff to make San Francisco his final resting-place.  Here he died in the Summer of 1849, leaving a great deal of valuable real estate in his name, which, on his death, was taken charge of by the Alcalde, as was the custom in such cases, under Mexican law, until the legal heirs should make their appearance.  When Captain Folsom soon afterwards went East he visited the islands of Leidesdorff's nativity, and asserted that he had found the Leidesdorff heirs and purchased their right to the San Francisco property for some trifling amount.  Many doubted the genuineness of this transaction, and Colonel Geary, then Alcalde of San Francisco, at first refused to give Folsom possession of the property.  This point was, however, soon arranged to Colonel Geary's entire satisfaction, and in a most liberal manner on the part of Captain Folsom.  He paid Geary ten thousand dollars <HI REND="italics">as a compromise</HI>
181.sgm: for his commissions and fees, and the property was given up to Folsom without further objections on the part of Geary.  While Captain Folsom lived he was never entirely quiet in the possession of this vast estate.  Many opened attacks on his title, and after making some points in the contest suddenly let the matter drop, to the surprise of lookers-on.  After the death of Captain Folsom the property all fell into the hands of hungry thieves, who devoured it all, with the other property he had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The next memoir is that of Thomas O. Larkin.  It is interesting and so truthful and modest in its tone that it appears entirely out of place in the "Annals."  The history of California could not be correctly written and omit the name of Thomas O. Larkin from its pages.  His whole career as a California pioneer and American citizen is without spot or blemish, so far as I ever heard.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then come the memoir of General Sutter, whose connection with California pioneer history makes him famous.  The memoir of him found in the "Annals" amounts to nothing, though he was deserving of much.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then comes the memoir of General Vallejo.  It is short, and in that respect is all the better for this old fox.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then comes the memoir of Edward Gilbert, whose early death we all so mourned.  First, because by his death we lost as true a California pioneer as ever stepped on our shores.  Secondly, because that life was lost through an act of folly.  In giving this memoir of Mr. Gilbert, the authors of the "Annals" make one curious remark which is worthy of quoting:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The war had then been terminated, and it became necessary to select a civilian to act as Collector of the Port.*****</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The late General Mason, U.S. Army, then acting as Governor of the territory, appointed Mr. Gilbert to that office.  This he declined.  By doing so he voluntarily lost an opportunity of amassing a large fortune in a very short time.  Mr. Harrison, who was subsequently appointed, having been the recipient of enormous revenues, through the opportunities given him by virtue of the office of getting possession of property, was soon made almost, if not quite, a millionaire."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Nothing we ever knew of Edward Gilbert would lead us to suppose that, had he accepted the Collectorship, he would have appropriated funds belonging to the Government to his own use, yet from that above quotation it would seem as though the "Annals" men thought he would have done so as a matter of course.  In this they did that brave, honorable young man a great injustice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then comes the memoirs of several very nice gentlemen, in all respects good citizens and full as well deserving of being paraded as notables in the "Annals of San Francisco" as were at least three thousand other gentlemen whose names could have been taken from the city directory of those days, but who would not pay to have themselves thus advertised.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Poor Theodore Payne, one of these "Annals" heroes, deserves a passing remark, as he was on the ill-fated Central America when she foundered at sea, and had the distinction of being one of the two beings calling themselves men who begged of the captain to let them leave with the women and children, by which they saved their valuable lives.  The "Annals" gives a woodcut of Payne's auction house, in San Francisco, where he and his friend Michael Reese put many a poor fellow's city lot through by a wink and a nod, in those days of fast and loose in California.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then comes a memoir of Colonel J. D. Stevenson.  All old Californians will, I am sure, indorse every word of praise bestowed on him.  The Colonel was truly a bold, dashing, patriotic officer, and as such can alone be mentioned in the history of pioneer times in California.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then comes the memoir of William M. Gwin, which is but a modest historic summary of his life up to the time of his coming to California, and is presumed to be correct in every respect.  It might be added that it was related of Dr. Gwin that, in the latter part of the year 1848, he was seated, one evening, in his own family circle, in Nashville, Tennessee, engaged in a game of whist, when the discovery of gold in California came up for discussion, and that Mrs. Gwin, his very accomplished wife, exclaimed: "Doctor, I have just thought of it; you must be off to California at once and organize a State government there, and get yourself elected United States Senator from the new State."  Be this as it may, it is undoubtedly true that the Doctor did come, and that from the date of his arrival among us he devoted his whole time to the organizing of a State government, and that he was elected United States Senator.  He made a most valuable representative; always attentive, prompt, and kind to all Californians who needed his services at the National Capital, making no distinction between Republicans and Democrats in this respect.  True and loyal to California in all things, her interest has never been watched with more jealous care than it was while Dr. Gwin was our Senator.  His career as a California politician, in connection with that of David C. Broderick, will be a most interesting chapter in the political history of our State, should it ever be written.</P>
181.sgm:<P>On the breaking out of the rebellion, Senator Gwin made, as we all thought, the great mistake of his life, in going South, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The "Annals" write up as a notable Jacob P. Leese, and in doing so they try to give the impression that to write the history of San Francisco and California correctly and omit J. P. Leese was impossible.  According to the "Annals," Leese was the hero of the first settlement in San Francisco, the master of the first American feast given there, and the father of the first child born there.  All this is humbug.  Leese's career in California was entirely selfish, and in no particular was it worth noticing in connection with the early history of our State.  This first baby business the authors of the "Annals" are fond of recording.  They tell us that Mrs. Larkin was the mother of the first American child in California, that Mrs. Leese was the mother of the first child in San Francisco, that Mrs. Geary was the mother of the first <HI REND="italics">American</HI>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS--THEIR INDORSEMENT OF THE "ANNALS."--"WOMAN'S RIGHTS."--TRUE SPHERE OF A WOMAN--RESOURCES OF CALIFORNIA--NEWSPAPERS, BANKS AND MANUFACTORIES--THE JUDICIARY--THE RAILROADS AND THE NEW CONSTITUTION--CALIFORNIANS WHO HAVE WON LAURELS IN THE EAST--LOSS OF THE CENTRAL AMERICA--RESCUE OF THE WOMEN AND CHILDREN BY THE BRIG "MARINE."--TERRIBLE PARTINGS--COWARDICE OF TWO MEN--OTHERS SAVED--GENERAL SHERMAN'S ACCOUNT--A PASSENGER'S STORY.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I think I have said enough to show the true character of this "Annals" book, and to satisfy all that its picture of the first immigrants to California after the discovery of gold, is a false and slanderous one in the extreme.  You, my young readers, who are the children of those immigrants, owe it to yourselves to vindicate your parents.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Let every one of you boys who can do so, enroll your names as members of the "Society of California Pioneers," and then demand the adoption of a formal resolution by the Society, repudiating this book and its dedication to them.  Do more.  Demand that an amendment be made to the constitution of the Society which will admit as members your mothers, the brave women of the pioneer days, and their female children as well as their male.  There is no reason why they should be excluded.  Did they not face and share every danger and privation with the men, and was it not more heroic in them to do so than it was in the men?  Was not the advent of <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
181.sgm: good, virtuous woman in those days of more value to the State than the coming of any <HI REND="italics">twenty</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"To cultivate the social virtues of its members, to collect and preserve information connected with the early settlement and conquest of the country, and to perpetuate the memory of those whose sagacity, enterprise and love of independence induced them to settle in the wilderness and become the germ of a new State."</P>
181.sgm:<P>What is there in the objects as here laid down that should exclude the women of '49 from membership?  Nothing, surely; but everything to point to its entire propriety and fitness.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>They and their daughters should not only be admitted members, but, in their case, no entrance fee or yearly subscription should be charged.  This Society is regarded with great favor and almost affection by all old Californians, even by those who are not members.  The Legislature of California has favored it in legislation when required, and many citizens have made it valuable donations.  It should be the peculiar guardian of the character and standing of the first immigrants to California.  Let it be true to its mission then, and spurn the dedication of a book that is sought to be made attractive only by wholesale slander and misrepresentation of the pioneers.  If the <HI REND="italics">men</HI>
181.sgm: of those times had alone been attacked in this book, perhaps I never would have taken up my pen to write these pages.  I would most likely, in that case, have been content to let it pass with contempt; but that our female population should be attacked, and those attacks dedicated to the Society of California Pioneers, was a little more than human patience could be expected to endure.  For the first ten or fifteen years after the publication of this book, it was let pass unnoticed, for its vagaries and misrepresentations were too well known to us all to make a contradiction seem worth while; and then the flattering memoirs it gave of the many would-be prominent men in San Francisco secured the influence of those gentlemen to prevent criticism; then the old adage of "What is every one's business is no one's business," came in to help to save it; besides, in these fast, busy years, we all have had our hands full of private business, requiring our whole attention from sunrise to sunset.  But now, in this year of our Lord, 1881, the scene is fast changing; our sons and our daughters, born to us in California, are beginning to take our places in the active duties of life, leaving us time to talk to them and to write to them.  The pioneers are fast passing away, so that after a while not a man will be left to contradict the terrible statements of this book, dedicated to the men who should have been the guardians of the honor of the pioneers.  A very little while ago, a woman, lecturing in San Francisco, spoke in the most disrespectful manner of the women of '49, quoting from "The Annals of San Francisco" in support of her disrespectful language.  Surely, then, it is time for some one to expose this book, and I only regret that an abler pen has not undertaken to do so.  But the object is accomplished, in my plain way, when once attention is drawn to the subject.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>I hope that nothing that I have said conveys the idea that I favor that political heresy, the so-called "Woman's Rights" movement, for I not only do not do so, but I look on it with almost contempt, because such a movement must come from men who are incapable of appreciating the character of a <HI REND="italics">true woman</HI>
181.sgm:, when faithfully fulfilling those duties so manifestly assigned to her by God himself.  Yes; I look on the movement with pity and regret, because it comes also, in part, from women who, not seeing their true exalted position, seek to degrade themselves to the rough and rugged ways forced upon man, in his fierce battle through the world.  God made woman fair and beautiful in person, and endowed her mind and disposition with charms far more alluring and attractive than even those of her person.  He gave her a sphere of duties totally different and of a more beautiful, if not of a higher character, than he assigned to man.  Men are created rough, strong and stern; unyielding in mind and purpose.  To them He assigned the labor of subduing the rugged earth to cultivation and fruitfulness.  To them He assigned the defence of the nation, even when it leads to the battlefield, where, without feeling or mercy, they are to cut down and slaughter the national enemy.  To them He has assigned the duty of bringing to even-handed justice the wicked and villainous of the community, imprisoning the one and strangling the other, as the safety of the community may demand.  To them He has assigned the duty of enacting the laws necessary to govern the community, from which duty they cannot shrink, though arguments, quarrels and personal strifes may be the consequence, and the necessity sometimes.  To them He has plainly given the protection of women from all harm or aspersion of character, in the performance of which they must, if necessary, yield life itself, or be recreant to the great trust reposed in them.  To woman is given the exclusive care and control of household duties, for which her loving nature, her quick perception and gentle disposition are all so necessary, so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>From this sphere of glorious duties, so necessary to the well-being of the community, shall we take gentle woman and thrust her rudely into the field of party politics, with its wrangling and bitter contentions?--a field that even strong, rough men feel loth to enter, for there the bitterest hates and enmities are often engendered, degrading to all.  Never, I trust, shall such a a thing be permitted, while woman respects herself, and man values and honors her as he has a right to do.  It is a woman's right that every avenue to profitable employment suitable for her should be thrown open to her, and, in many cases, <HI REND="italics">reserved for her by provision of law</HI>
181.sgm:<P>I think I have said enough to satisfy any one that the "Annals of San Francisco" is no authority as to the character of the pioneers, either men or women, and that you, their children, have nothing to be ashamed of in their regard, but much to be proud of.  We, the pioneers, feel proud of the great young State we are turning over to your charge.  Yes; we are proud, for look at our schools; they are to be found in every nook and corner, so that no boy or girl in the State can have an excuse for not acquiring a reasonably good education.  Look at our high <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>We point to the circulation of our daily press as a marvel, and being mostly well deserved a credit to us.  Look at our agricultural resources and developments.  We already begin to feed the outside world with grain which commands a higher price than that of any other country on earth.  Our farmers, too, cannot be surpassed in bold enterprise and skill, that should insure to them success.  Look at our infant manufactories.  They now, in the character of their products, though of course not in quantity, outrank those of any other State in the Union.  Look at our leading mercantile houses and banking institutions; for honor, enterprise and stability they stand first among the first, the world over.  In what city in the world do we find such a young giant in the business of banking springing into existence as the Bank of Nevada?  It is a California wonder.  May success attend the enterprising men who control its destinies.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Look at the judiciary of our State.  The judiciary everywhere is a good index by which to judge of the moral worth of the community, for a pure judiciary can only come from a good people.  For years our Supreme Bench, taken as a whole, with Wallace as its chief, could challenge comparison with that of any State in the Union.</P>
181.sgm:<P>We have reason to be proud, too, of the brilliant talent of our Bar, where such men as Wallace, McKinstry, McKee, Felton, Patterson, Wilson, McAllister, Hoge, Cohen, Doyle, Haight, Barnes and Casserly, not forgetting the pride of the Workingmen, Clitus Barbour, and many others, have won distinction and more than a State reputation as jurists.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Look at our railroad enterprise.  It equals, if it does not excel, that of any State in the Union, or that of any country on earth.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>If there is one location on earth a California '49er loves more than another, it is that of, to him, dear San Francisco; that proud young city of the Pacific coast.  It is identified with all the trials, hopes and joys of his early manhood's struggle for an honorable position in life; and, no matter where his lot may be cast, San Francisco holds a place in his memory that it is sweet for him to dwell on.  Her growth and prosperity is a pride to every true '49er.  To you, boys of San Francisco, I take the liberty of a '49er, who did his part in helping to lay the foundation of your prosperous city, to suggest to you to improve her dress by sweeping from her streets, by enactment of law, with one dash, the names of her despoilers and her "no-bodies;" and replace them with the names of our old patriot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>There is a fact connected with the early settlement of this State which is complimentary.  It is the marked favor with which returned Californians were always received in the Eastern States.  Notably, we may point to Fremont, whose connection with California nearly made him President of the United States in 1856; John W. Geary, who became Governor of Pennsylvania; Rodman M. Price, who was elected to Congress from New Jersey and was afterwards her Governor; Caleb Lyons, an eccentric little man, who claimed the credit of fashioning the great seal of California--and it was all he ever did, if he did that, while in California, to make himself known on his return to his native town in the State of New York--was elected to Congress, I think, three times <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The loss of the Central America, on the Atlantic side, which occurred on September the 20th, 1857, serves to show what sort of material went to make up the true Californian.  For brave, cool courage, under the most trying circumstances, they cannot, we believe, be surpassed by any people on the face of the earth.  This steamer was on her trip from Panama to New York, filled with Californians, men, women and children.  She sprung a leak off Cape Hatteras, which it was found impossible to stanch or overcome.  After the most desperate and heroic efforts of the Captain and officers, the attempt to keep her up was abandoned.  Just at that moment came in sight the brig Marine, Captain Hiram Burt.  She was signaled, and soon ran alongside the Central America.  This brig was so small and her accommodations so limited in every way that all she could do was to offer to take all the women and children.  This was accepted by Captain Harndon, of the Central America, who was as brave a man as ever stepped on deck of ship.  Then a scene was enacted that challenges the history of the world for its match in cool courage and unwavering fortitude.  The Captain announced to the assembled passengers that the steamer could not float more than half an hour, and that the brig Marine, alongside, could only take the women and children.  "Now," said he, "get your wives and children and every woman on board ready, and I will put them on the brig, and we men will shift for ourselves the best we can, trusting in God to aid us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Every man present assented, calling out cheerfully: "All right, Captain, all right; we are satisfied."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The women along objected, calling out: "Oh, Captain, that is too terrible.  Let us stay, and all die together."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The Captain silenced all their cries by declaring that if the women wanted to give the men any chance for their lives, they would at once obey orders implicitly and go on board the brig.  This brought acquiescence and prompt obedience from the women.  Then came the quick and terrible parting of father and child, husband and wife, brother and sister, as terrible to them all as death itself.  It cannot be imagined, much less described.  Among all the men two only proved cowardly, and the Captain, with expressions of contempt, ordered them on board the brig with the women.  The story of this steamer is well worth reading.  My space will not permit me to say more of it.  The Marine, with the women and children, it will be found, reached Norfolk, Virginia, in safety, where nothing could surpass the affectionate kindness of the people of that old town towards them all.  A Swedish bark picked up some seventy of the men.  General Sherman, in his memoirs, on page 135, gives the following account of the saving of these men, which is interesting:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"In the midst of this panic came the news that the steamer Central America, formerly the George Law, with six hundred passengers and $1,600,000 of treasure, coming from Aspinwall, had foundered at sea off the coast of Georgia, and that about sixty of the passengers had been providentially picked up by a Swedish bark, and brought into Savannah.  The absolute loss of this treasure went to swell the confusion and panic of the day.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"A few days after, I was standing in the restaurant of the Metropolitan Hotel, and heard the Captain of the Swedish bark tell his singular story of the rescue of these passengers.  He was a short, sailor-like looking man, with a strong German or Swedish accent.  He said he was sailing from some port in Honduras for Sweden, running down the gulf stream, off Savannah.  The weather had been heavy for some days, and about nightfall, as he paced his deck, he observed a man-of-war hawk circle about his vessel, gradually lowering until the bird was, as it were, aiming at him.  He jerked out a belaying-pin, struck at the bird, and missed it, when the hawk again rose high in the air, and a second time began to descend, contract his circle and make at him again.  The second time he hit the bird and struck it to the deck.  This strange fact made him uneasy, and he thought it betokened danger.  He went to the binnacle, saw the course he was steering, and, without any particular reason, he ordered the steersman to alter the course one point to the east.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"After this it became quite dark, and he continued to promenade the deck, and had settled into a drowsy state, when, as in a dream, he thought he heard voices all round his ship.  Waking up, he saw at the side of his ship, something struggling in the water, and heard clearly cries for help.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>General Sherman, in writing his memoirs, had evidently forgotten the circumstance of the brig Marine saving the women and children, as he makes no mention of it, and says that all but those saved by the Swedish brig were lost.</P>
181.sgm:<P>One of the passengers saved, in giving the narration of the disaster, says:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I was standing on the after part of the steamer with a life-preserver on, undecided how to act, when suddenly the vessel seemed to tremble all over, as if in fear, and then she made a dive forward and went to the bottom.  I, of course, went with her, ingulfed in the roaring, closing waters.  Down, down I went, as if to follow her; then suddenly I felt myself stop descending, and now I shot up as rapidly as I had descended, until my body fairly leaped out of the sea.  As my head cleaved the water, I heard my mother's voice, as plainly as I ever heard it in my life, saying, `Oh, Henry, how could you eat your sister's grapes?'  Twenty years before, when a mere boy, I had a poor, sick sister, dying of consumption, for whom some grapes had been procured, I suppose with great difficulty.  On coming across them, boy-like, I eat them; and that was my mother's exclamation on discovering what I had done.  Others of the passengers who had made the same terrible dive I had, had the same strange experience on reaching the surface of the foaming sea.  They believed they heard distinctly all around them voices familiar only in long past years."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The London <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
181.sgm:<P>There is another fact worthy of note that we Californians have to be proud of.  It is the superior moral tone of our first-class theatrical amusements; for it is a fact, that all our stage managers will attest, that of late years in the most fashionable theaters of New York and other Eastern cities, plays are put on the stage, without objection, that would disgust and scatter a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>FASCINATION OF PIONEER TIMES--ANECDOTES AND STORIES IN ILLUSTRATION.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I will devote the remaining pages of this volume to anecdotes and stories that I think will convey to you a vivid picture of our pioneer times in California, without requiring you to wade through any dry descriptions.  There was a spirit of off-hand, jolly fun in those days, that I want you to comprehend.  It was neither "brave wickedness" nor "splendid folly," so praised by the "Annals," but a sort of universal free and easy cheerfulness, that encouraged all sorts of drollery and merriment to show themselves continually, mixed up with the sober realities of our daily life.  The California pioneer that could not give and take a joke was just no Californian at all.  Business that was transacted without some fun cropping out was dry and disagreeable.  It was this spirit that gives the memory of those days that indescribable fascination and charm, which we all feel when looking back to our pioneer life.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I had collected many anecdotes to give in illustration of this point, but my space compels me to lay several of them aside.  The few I give, together with the three stories of "Ellen Harvey," "Ada Allen" and "Minnie Wagner," will, I hope, be sufficient to shade this characteristic of our people into my picture, and make it, as a whole, agreeably complete.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The anecdotes are just as repeated to me in the neighborhood of their occurrence.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The story of Ellen Harvey, I take from the following circumstance:</P>
181.sgm:<P>A young married lady arrived from the East, on one of the Panama steamers, in 1850.  She came to join her husband, who was in business in a town in the interior.  Before her husband arrived from his place of business, a lady who had known her at home called to see her while she was yet on board the steamer, and told her some stories that were current of her husband's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>I was very much interested myself at the time, and in some years afterwards I obtained full notes of the personal history of both husband and wife from the lady's cousin, with whom I was well acquainted.  From these notes I have woven this story, keeping the main facts, as related to me, strictly in view.  The Susan March scene, and her history, is almost literally true.  It was related to me by "Black Bob," the washerwoman's husband.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The story of "Ada Allen" is all through nothing more than a grouping of actual occurrences, many of which were related to me by Captain Casserly, and are only altered and changed in the story to avoid offensive intrusion on individual private history.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Doctor Bucket, and some others of the characters brought into this story, may be recognized by old Californians, or by the parties themselves, but I hope not in an offensive way to any of them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The story of Minnie Wagner is of the same character in all respects.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The Mrs. Lightheal of this story is no fictitious character.  Nor is that of Johnny Lucky.  He will be recalled to memory by many '49ers, and it may be owing to his wild stories that in 1850 there was a floating rumor in San Francisco, traceable to no very good authority, that a pirate ship had been fitted out in Sidney, under the command of a cashiered officer of the British navy, intended to intercept and capture the steamer conveying gold from San Francisco to Panama.  That such a story was current about that time is certain, but how it got afloat is hard to determine.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Johnny got in one of his talkative moods he always said he came to San Francisco in a pirate ship; that she anchored near Saucelito, and that her captain was murdered by his first officer and one of his sailors in a desperate fight on shore, on a cliff of high land that he used to point out, a mile or so west of the old watering place of Saucelito, and about half way between there and Point Caballo, where the United States has since erected a fortification.  This cliff we used to call "Pirates' Point."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In company with a friend, I paid a visit to this spot many years ago, and again very lately.  It is about eighty or one hundred feet above the water of the bay.  When first I saw it, I should think it extended out about forty yards further than it does now.  It then shelved out over the bay, resting, it seemed, securely on a huge rock.  A luxurious growth of grass and wild flowers covered the ground, beneath a grove of young oaks, making the location romantic and unsurpassingly beautiful.  On the very outer edge stood an old oak tree, yielding, in its lifelong struggle with the merciless prevailing west wind, until its half bare branches almost touched the ground.  This was the tree that was so connected with the murder that saved Minnie's and her brother's lives.  When I saw it on the first visit, there was a piece of rope, said to have been part of the one used by the infuriated mate, yet fastened around its trunk.  On my recent visit I discovered that the great supporting rock had given way, perhaps shaken from its bed by some of our earthquake shocks; and with it had gone a large piece of the point.  The other surroundings are all exactly as of old.  I found the name "Brown" cut in the bark of one of the little oaks yet standing near the edge of the cliff as it is now shaped.  I mused over it a moment.  "Yes; Brown was the name of Lusk's friend, lost, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Should any of my fair readers, when roaming in that beautiful and romantic neighborhood, be incited to visit "Pirates' Point," they will recognize it by the mysterious name cut in the little oak.  But let their visit be in the bright, warm sunshine of springtime, when, as they cross the rippling, crystal little brook at the foot of the hill, from which the point makes out over the bay, they will be charmed to kneel and drink of its invigorating and inspiring waters.  Yes; when every bush they pass is all music, so filled is it with the sweet notes of the California linnet and meadow lark.  Yes; let their visit be when the ground beneath their feet is covered with a carpet woven of wild flowers and luxuriant grass, and more beautiful than ever came from Eastern loom.  Then will their imagination bring before them Minnie, in all her beauty of person, covered with the priceless jewels of truth, fidelity and unwavering trust in God, that so lit up the gloom in the darkest hour of trial, and guided her own and her brother's steps in safety through every difficulty that beset their pioneer life.  No, they must not visit that spot in the somber months of the year, or when, at the approach of night, it is mantled in a gloomy fog, rushing in from the lonesome sea; for then their imagination could only picture a frightful scene of strife and murder, made inexpressibly hideous by the low muttered curses and imprecations they would fancy they heard uttered by the murderers and the murdered, above which would seem in sight the dark eyes of Lizzie Lawson, fixed with unrelenting gaze on her false lover, as her father dragged him step by step to the fearful cliff.  Yes; and as they turned away frightened by the vision, the gloom on that spot is sure to bring to the imagination, they would fancy they heard the cry of anguish from poor Agnes Ward's spirit, as her child was forced by an unpitying hand to the dark doom he so well deserved.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I did not draw on my imagination for Minnie's escape from the gamblers on the Sacramento river steamer.  It was related to me by Jim Becket, at one time prince of sports in San Francisco.  Just before he left the State he sauntered one morning into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Why, Jim, you look as if you had just come from a funeral."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Worse than that," said he.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, what is up, Jim?  You generally look happy.  What can have happened you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>He then went on to tell me that he had just come back from a visit to a lady to whom he had once been of great service.  I became interested, and asked him to come into my private office and tell me all about it.  I always liked this man.  I never was in his gambling room, or turned a card with him in my life, but somehow he fancied me and did nearly all his private business through me, and then he always advised me `never to touch a card.'  So it was natural I should like him, particularly as I always found him strictly honorable and truthful in all business transactions.  After we were seated and had lit our cigars he gave the story of Minnie's escape, as I have given it in the story, concluding with:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I have just been to Oregon, and, finding where she was living with her husband, I wrote a line from Portland to know if a visit from a man like me would be agreeable.  In reply I got a letter from her husband with as cordial an invitation as if he was my brother.  So the next day I took the steamer for his locality, and they met me at the landing with a carriage and the warmest welcome.  For a whole week they treated me, at their beautiful home, as if I was a prince and a brother, too.  I tell you, Grey," he continued, "that week gave me a taste of Heaven, and I grew more disgusted at my way of life than I ever was before.  Yet Minnie; yes, I call her Minnie, for she refused to let me call her anything else, never directly asked me to change to a better mode of living, but somehow everything she did for me and said to me seemed to ask me to do so.  She taught her beautiful little child to call me "Uncle James."  On leaving, they brought me back to the landing in their carriage, and we parted, I suppose, never to meet again, as I am about to return to Baltimore, and I feel miserable ever since I left them; yes, miserable to think how unworthy I was to be so treated by the most beautiful, the most intelligent, and the best woman in America, and by her husband, who is as good a man as she is a woman."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Very soon after this conversation Becket left the State.  I recollect seeing his name in the Eastern newspapers as connected with large bets on President Buchanan's election, and later still we heard of his death.  Poor Jim!  If he had his grave faults, he had many redeeming points as well.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In concluding this recital of the facts upon which my stories are woven, I will state that the character of Lusk cannot be classed as fictitious, for an Englishman of fine personal appearance and good education, claiming a parentage exactly such as that of Lusk, figured among the Sydney men, in 1851, in San Francisco, and disappeared, no one knows where or how.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>A CALIFORNIA MISER--A SPECULATION IN HOGS--A MARRIAGE OF A BASHFUL WOMAN--A LIFE SAVED BY NEW YORK LAW--A LAWYER'S FIRST APPEARANCE IN COURT--A GOOD SPEECH RESERVED--SQUATTERS DISPERSED BY REFUSING TO TALK--A CASE WON BY USING AN IRISH AUTHORITY--A "DIVIDE" WITH ROBBERS AND LAWYERS--DAN MURPHY LOSES HIS CASH.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The people of California are admitted by all to be remarkable for their liberality in their expenditure of wealth.  They are liberal to all sorts of charities, to churches and schools.  They are liberal in small matters as well as in large.  The collections taken up at a church on Sundays in San Francisco would astonish the vestry people of any church in New England, or even in New York.  In San Francisco, in old times a "quarter" or a "half" was the least dropped into the contribution-box on Sundays.  No man in California ever used a nickel, much less a copper cent; and many of you, my young readers, I presume have never seen either; ten cents being generally the lowest coin in use among us.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In all my experience I only knew one miser in California, and that was John P. Davidson.  It was strange, too, that Davidson was a miser, for he was born in Ireland, and from early boyhood was brought up in Kentucky--two countries proverbial for lavish hospitality and open-handed liberality.  He was so well known in early times to many in San Francisco, that a little of his history, I think, is worth giving, particularly as it will help out my picture of pioneer days in some essential points.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Davidson was tall, and rather a good looking man; tolerably well educated, and was, at one time, captain of a fine steamer on the Mississippi river.  He was of a decidedly religious turn of mind, and this put some of his acts of questionable honesty in a ludicrous point of view to lookers on.  The truth was that his miserly, grasping disposition so controlled him that he found it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>One Sunday afternoon Mr. Williams gave out that the following Sunday a brother clergyman would preach in his pulpit for a charitable object, and requested that every member of his church should come prepared to respond to the call on their liberality, provided they liked the object.  The following Sunday I was in my store, with the doors closed, of course, preparing myself for church and my Sunday's walk over the sandhills, when a loud knocking came at the door.  I opened it in a hurry. There stood my friend Davidson.  He explained to me the request Mr. Williams had made the Sunday before, and said that he was on his way to church, but found he had no money within reach, and requested me to lend him some.  I explained that my partner was out with the key of the safe, but added that what I drew from my pocket, some four or five dollars in small change, was at his service, but was, I feared, too small to be of any use to him. In the change, it so happened that there was, to us, the useless little coin of five cents.  "Oh, my dear sir," said Davidson, "this is quite sufficient," reaching out his hand as he spoke, and as I supposed for all the change I offered; but no, he placed his forefinger on the little stranger, the five cent piece, and walked off with it with a most satisfied expression of countenance.  He evidently admired the size of the coin exceedingly for such an occasion.  Late in the afternoon I lay stretched on the counter, my head on some open blankets, for a rest, when again I was aroused by a loud knocking on the store door.  I unlocked it, and there stood my friend Davidson with his hand stretched out, and the identical little five cent piece between his forefinger and thumb.  "I did not like the object, sir," said he; "no, I did not like the object; so I brought the money back."</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was always said, in San Francisco, that that was the nearest Davidson ever, in his life, came to doing an act of charity that required the outlay of money.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At this time Davidson lived in a room in the second story of a house on Clay street, owned by a Frenchman.  His rent was paid one month in advance, in accordance with the universal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Monsieur Davidzon no dead; me one man very glad!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Davidson looked at him for a moment without speaking, his eyes twinkling out of the flour and molasses with a peculiarly savage ferocity; then he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You glad?  Well, then, will you now pay me back my month's rent?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Monsieur Davidzon, me no pay back one dollar.  Me one great loss by one transaction here to-day.  You one man very lucky, you no dead."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Davidson always spoke of that Frenchman as one of the greatest ruffians on the Continent of America.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Davidson had a great inclination to venture in small speculations.  He had no head or confidence in himself in such matters, but he found an acquaintance, Mr. Henry Toomy, who was willing to put his brains against his (Davidson's) money, and divide net profits equally.  In this way Davidson often made handsomely in little ventures with Toomy.  He had one advantage, however, over Toomy, for if they purchased any merchandise that required removal from one part of the city to another, Davidson always did this work himself with a wheelbarrow, after dark, and charged the co-partnership with the full price of the usual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>It so happened that about this time Davidson fell in with a Doctor Somebody, who had been on a cruise among the South Pacific Islands.  This man told Davidson that hogs could be got on those Islands for almost nothing.  This aroused Davidson's cupidity to the highest, for at that time hogs commanded thirty cents a pound, live weight, in San Francisco.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Doctor proposed to Davidson to purchase a ship and go for a cargo of those hogs, offering to accompany him for a share of the profits.  Davidson feared to venture so large an amount of money in one speculation, but, finding a merchant of the name of West who was willing to put up half the money, the arrangement was made with the Doctor.  On looking around for a suitable ship, they found what appeared to be a very fine bark, called the America.  She was for sale, and her deck was flush, just the sort of craft, the Doctor said, for the voyage in view.  She was owned by two brothers; one was her captain, the other her first officer.  They offered her at a very low price, twenty-five hundred dollars.  They told Davidson the reason they wanted to sell her, and were willing to take so small an amount, was that they had had a personal difficulty between themselves and wanted to part company, and to do so they must turn the ship into cash.  Then the mate told Davidson privately that, if it was agreeable to him, he would like to retain one-third interest in the bark and go to sea in her, in the same position he had when his brother was captain.  He cautioned Davidson not to let the brother know of this arrangement, or that he would not consent to let the bark go at so low a figure.  Davidson fell into the trap set for him, and bought the bark.  After the purchase he waited patiently for the mate to put in his appearance, but he waited in vain, for, on making inquiries, he found that the two brothers had no sooner sold the America than they purchased a fine, new ship for five thousand dollars, and had put to sea once more as captain and mate.  The Doctor and Davidson pushed their preparations with energy for the voyage.  Under the Doctor's advice, they purchased a quantity of trashy, cheap goods, to trade to the natives of the Islands for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>All went well, however, until one day Davidson detected a bottle of strychnine among the Doctor's private stores.  Davidson now became alarmed, and feared the Doctor had a plot on hand to poison him and take the ship, so he positively refused to let the Doctor go to sea with him.  The result was that the Doctor and the captain that he had recommended were both sent adrift, and Davidson, shipping a captain of his own choosing, went in search of the hog islands alone.  In less than three months the bark America returned with a cargo of oranges and one hundred and seventy-five hogs on the main deck.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Davidson reported to Mr. West that whenever the least rough weather came the America leaked so badly that it was necessary to keep the pumps manned nearly all the time, to clear her of water; so, fearing to proceed, they had run into the island of Bora Bora.  Here they found oranges, for which they traded the merchandise.  There were hogs here also, but for these the natives demanded coin, and, though Davidson had fifteen hundred dollars in coin with him, he would not part with it.  "For," said he, "that I could save in a boat, if the bark went down, but not so the hogs."  The hogs he did get only cost him $175.  These he sold to a lawyer named Ryan, somewhat famous as an Irish patriot of 1848.  Ryan had made a calculation as to the immense profits of hog raising as the market then stood in California, which dwarfed anything he could hope to make at law, and having the portion of his fortune left after his sacrifices in the cause of Ireland, unemployed, he invested seventeen hundred and fifty dollars of it in Davidson's hogs.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The morning Ryan was to receive them from Davidson, two very large ones were so sick that they could not get on their feet.  Captain Davidson feared Ryan would refuse to receive these two as merchantable, so he called his boy John to help him, and they tied the sick hogs' legs fast together.  The bark lay out in the bay a few hundred yards from the wharf, to save wharfage, so Ryan had to take away his hogs in a boat.  Just as Davidson had finished tying the legs of the invalids, Ryan came alongside and jumped on deck.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Good morning, friend Ryan; we have just commenced to tie up the hogs for you," was Davidson's polite salutation.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank you, Captain," said Ryan; and, turning to his men, continued: "Now, lads, be lively at your work; slide these two big fellows the captain has tied up for us over into the boat first and foremost."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The men did so, and a lot more were tied up and shoved into the boat.  On reaching the wharf with this load, Ryan was surprised to find that the two hogs Davidson had tied up were dead.  Not knowing the man, a faint hope came to poor Ryan that if Davidson saw the hogs dead he would make some deduction; share the loss, perhaps, or something of that sort; so he ordered the dead hogs left in the boat, and returned to the bark.  The moment Davidson saw what had happened, he got into a perfect passion of virtuous indignation, exclaiming, as he stamped on the deck furiously:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Discharge every one of that crew, sir!  Discharge every one of them, sir!  Stupid rascals, to smother two of your finest animals! How could you have picked up such a crew, Mr. Ryan?  See what a loss it has caused you."  Then, drawing close to Ryan, he continued, in an undertone: "Mr. Ryan, what are we coming to?  If these men had received a proper religious education, this never would have happened."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ryan at once gave up all hope of Davidson's sharing any loss in the matter; so, heaving a sigh, he ordered the boatman to dump his two big beauties into the bay.  Poor Ryan was Davidson's victim in another particular.  The day he purchased the hogs from Davidson, they were counted out for him and paid for.  There were just one hundred and seventy-five in all, but soon afterwards a sow gave birth to seven pigs.  Five of them were remarkably fine little fellows, while the two others were the veriest little runts that ever disgusted a farmer.  Now, the question was, Who did these pigs belong to?  After a short, earnest discussion on this interesting point with his boy John, Captain Davidson came to the conclusion that the pigs belonged to himself.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, John," he concluded, "as you so intelligently remark, the pigs undoubtedly belong to me, for Mr. Ryan only had counted out to him one hundred and seventy-five head, and can, therefore, have no right to more than that number; yes, that is clear; but, John, we will not be ungenerous in this matter, we will leave him those two small ones, for I always prefer to lean against myself when there is any sort of doubt, and that should be the rule of life with every honest man, John; don't forget that, my boy."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The morning the delivery was to be made Davidson ordered John to stow away the five fat little pigs below decks; not to hide them from Ryan, he told John, but to prevent them being hurt in the rush of catching the large hogs.  Ryan was surprised and mortified to find that one of his finest looking sows had such a miserable product, but Davidson consoled him by suggesting that it might be owing to the fact that the sow was not much of a sailor, and had been too long fed on yams.</P>
181.sgm:<P>With the last load of hogs Davidson went on shore, but before leaving the bark he whispered to John to bring the little pigs up and let them loose on deck.  John did so, and the consequence was, every one of them fell down the hatchway, and they all lay dead on the lower deck when Davidson returned.  As he looked down the hatchway he seemed very sad and thoughtful; then, calling John, he said, in a solemn warning tone of voice: "Boy, look down there.  Let the fate of these pigs be a warning to you through all your future life, never to covet your neighbor's property.  I now see that in justice these pigs belong to poor Ryan.  Yes, John; the truth is, providentially, made plain to me when it is too late.  Throw them overboard, boy.  Throw them over, John, and say no more about it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>To get rid of the oranges was now Davidson's great trouble.  It so happened that six or seven other cargoes of oranges had arrived in port the same day with the bark America, so that there was a perfect glut of oranges in the market.  Conspicuous among these I recollect one that was owned by Colonel Gift and his son.  Their vessel lay at "Long Wharf," at the foot of Commercial street.  The Colonel's son had gone to sea with their craft, intent on another sort of return cargo altogether, but, like Davidson, he was tempted to bring oranges.  This mistake of the son was condemned by the father in that characteristic emphatic language that has made the Colonel so notorious in California.  You could hear his voice a quarter of a mile off in comments on his son's unwise selection of a cargo, and as you drew near you found him walking excitedly up and down the wharf, using language original, and so peculiarly profane, that it attracted a large crowd of boys, who followed him with shouts of laughing applause.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The fruit dealers, in the face of this glut in the market, declined to purchase any amount of oranges.  In this dilemma a young lawyer, just arrived from New York, whose talents and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>The boys thought it only fun, but they were soon undeceived, for each two of the oranges were wrapped in leaves with sharp, thorny edges, and the consequence was, that the boys always gave up the job after two or three days' work, with their hands all sore and bleeding.  If a boy had put in three days' work, Davidson insisted that it was only two days' work.  If they worked four days he only called it three, and so on.  When the boys demurred to this, he would demonstrate to them that he was right in this way of counting their time: "Now, boy, listen to me.  You came on Monday and worked until Tuesday; that was one day.  Then you worked until Wednesday, which is one day more, making two days in all, you see; which is just one-fifteenth of a month.  So here is your nice, silver dollar.  You are a good boy, and I hope you always go to Sunday school, for there is nothing like it, my boy; and be sure to always say your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, sir; I thank Providence, I have sold the America to that terrible man, Rickets!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes?" answered Mr. West.  "How much did you get?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Just what I asked him, three thousand dollars.  Oh, sir, that Rickets is a terrible man; an unsafe man, sir, in this community."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How is that, Captain?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, sir, when I tell you his way of proceeding, you will understand.  This morning he came on board our ship, just as John and I had finished our morning's three hours' pumping."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Pumping what?" interrupted Mr. West.  "You don't mean to say, Captain, that the America leaks while lying at the wharf?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, sir, now that she is sold I just as leave tell you that John and I had every morning to get up two hours before day, and put in three hours of hard work in pumping, and to do the same every evening, or I believe she would have gone down right at the wharf.  Well, as I was saying, Rickets came on board, and, in his fussy way, exclaimed: `Well, Captain, this is a fine looking bark you have here, but West tells me she leaks some at sea.  Does she leak here at the wharf, Captain?  How often have you pumped her since she has been clear of her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"But, Captain Davidson, won't you feel badly if the America happens to go down, you know, with two or three hundred Chinamen on board?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I had nothing to do with the sale to the Chinamen; I sold to Rickets, and after he pays me the other fifteen hundred dollars I intend to be very plain with him, and let him know what I think of his conduct in deceiving those poor Chinamen, and risking the lives of so many human beings in such a vessel as the America.  I will tell him plainly that it is my opinion that if she undertakes a voyage to China, she will never reach there.  This will leave the responsibility entirely on the shoulders of this Boston man.  Have you a Bible, Mr. West, you are not using?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What do you want of a Bible, Captain?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I thought if you had one to spare, for I cannot spare mine, I would present it to this Mr. Rickets, after he pays me the money, in hopes that it might arouse conscientious scruples, and prevent him from deliberately drowning a cargo of Chinamen, which is what he will do if he ever sends them to sea in that bark."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This bark's after history was curious.  Some one put the Chinamen on their guard, and they forfeited their $100 and left her on Rickets' hands.  He painted her up handsomely, but no one proposed to purchase her for a long time.  At this time there was a firm in the city under the name of Osborne &amp; Son.  They were enterprising, nice men, and reported financially well off.  One day a stranger loitered into their store on some pretence, and soon got into conversation with the senior member of the firm.  The stranger was smart and intelligent, and won the confidence of the old man.  He said he lived in Sacramento, but was just then on his way back from a trip down the coast.  He said he had visited a place in Mexico where turkeys and poultry of all descriptions, then immensely high in San Francisco, could be purchased for almost nothing.  He said he had three thousand dollars, and wanted to find a man with a like sum to join him in purchasing a ship and going for a cargo of poultry to this Mexican town.  Osborne at once offered to join him, and in half an hour more they were on the lookout for a suitable vessel.  Of course they fell in with the bark America.  She was just the thing, so the Sacramento man declared; but on calling on her owner, Rickets, he at first positively refused to part with her, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Though it is contrary to our marine laws, as I understand them, to permit a ship that once leaves the protection of our flag to return to it again, yet it is certain that this famous bark America was, by some legerdemain, brought back under the United States flag; but what has become of her since I know not.  If my recollection serves me right, Mr. Osborne himself told me that his connection with the bark America caused him a loss of ten thousand dollars.</P>
181.sgm:<P>But now, perhaps, you want to know how Ryan's hog speculation resulted.  Well, he gave the hogs on shares to a man residing in the sand hills.  This man agreed to feed them and properly take care of them for half the increase.  The fact is, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"I will do nothing of the kind, sir," was the indignant reply.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then the hogs will all die; for I tell you I have not got a thing for them to eat, nor money to buy it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ryan drew himself up to his full military height, as he answered:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The contract provided for all that sir."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, it does, does it?  And the hogs, I suppose, are to live on the contract?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; that contract was drawn by no pettifogger; it protects the hogs and guarantees them food, and effectually secures me success in my enterprise.  Good morning, sir; read your contract carefully over, and you will see, sir, how plain it is in every particular."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In two or three weeks after this interview some one told Ryan that most of his hogs were dead, and that the hog farmer had gone to the mines.  Not at all put out, Ryan commenced an action at law against the farmer.</P>
181.sgm:<P>His complaint is said to have been a curiosity in the law practice of those days, not only for its length but for the variety of its contents, and the ingenious way the same thing was repeated over and over in different ways.  No defendant appeared, so Ryan, to be fair about it, and not to be baulked in his desire to display the contract in Court, got some one to put in an answer.  He then demanded a jury trial.  To the jury he made a most eloquent appeal as to his rights under the contract, and was really pathetic when alluding to the fate of the hogs after their desertion by the farmer.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The result was a verdict for the full amount of damage claimed in the complaint.  An execution was duly issued, but the Sheriff's return was, in effect, that no property was to be found, except a few hogskins and a broken down brush fence.  Ryan paid the costs with cheerfulness, and retired from the hog business for good and all.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Now you will ask how the "corner on oranges" came out.  Well, it cleaned out three of the enterprising firms who had planned it, with the aid of the young lawyer, and all who touched it got more or less hurt.  Every orange of Davidson's cargo was dumped into the bay, as were thousands and thousands more with them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After this, Davidson, having bought an interest in a rancho near Watsonville, went to that locality to live.  From there he was often summoned to the county seat (Santa Cruz) for jury service.  On those occasions he used to trap a ground squirrel, skin and roast it, put it in his pocket with a cold boiled potato, and walk off to Santa Cruz.  He would satisfy himself for breakfast and lunch off of this private store; then in the evening he would take one meal at a hotel kept by Judge Rice, who was County Judge of Santa Cruz county at that time.  The Judge was a large, fat man, of good hard common sense.  His education had been slightly neglected in his youth, which often caused much amusement to the wags of that county bar, in which the Judge himself frequently joined with the utmost good humor.</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was the Judge's practice, as soon as the Court adjourned, to walk home, take off his coat, and wait on the table of his hotel at meals.  This, too, was a source of fun and amusement to his guests, who made it a point to keep the fat Judge on the constant run in waiting on them.  It was all the time "Judge, more pork and beans."  "Judge, this end of the table is out of spuds" (potatoes).  "Judge, is there no more ham and eggs?  No?  What are your hens about?"  "Judge, did this butter come around Cape Horn?"  All this the Judge took in perfect good part, replying with genuine rough wit that kept the whole company laughing.</P>
181.sgm:<P>His position as waiter gave the Judge an insight into Davidson's way of living, and he did not relish it by any means, for he observed that Davidson stowed away the full three meals at one time, and yet the Judge got pay for but one.</P>
181.sgm:<P>On one of these visits of Davidson's to Santa Cruz, the Judge stood this sort of thing patiently for three days; but on the third evening, when he was satisfied that Davidson had his full three meals stowed away, he was surprised by a loud call from his guest for another plate of ham and eggs.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah," muttered the Judge to himself, "by gosh, old Davidson is making a starter to put in one meal in advance for to-morrow.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>I suppose his darned squirrel grub has given out; but, by gosh, that is a little too much of a good thing.  No, no; I will not put up with that, if this Court knows herself, and she thinks she do; I cannot stand it; no, I will just have a talk with the old chap."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The result was a free conference with Captain Davidson after supper, which ended in the understanding that the Judge was to make no charge for the time Davidson had eaten at the hotel, provided he would change to Jimmy Skien's hotel, on the opposite side of the street, for the remaining days he was to be in attendance on the jury.  It was said that this maneuver of Judge Rice was afterwards discovered by Jimmy Skien, and was the cause of a very serious misunderstanding between these two old friends.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Davidson!  When the war of the rebellion broke out, he fled to England to avoid taxes.  He returned after peace was established, and after some years died in St. Louis, leaving some $80,000, of which he bequeathed a small part to some near relations, and the rest to the "Presbyterian Church of Ireland," which is all in litigation to this day.  A book of amusing stories of this California miser could be told, but my space compels me to drop him here.</P>
181.sgm:<P>JUDGE WILLIAM BLACKBURN ON THE MOSAIC LAW.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Judge William Blackburn was the first American Alcalde of Santa Cruz.  He was an old pioneer, I think, of 1847.  He was very tall in person, and very dignified in his aspect.  To look at him you could hardly fancy that he ever laughed, yet beneath this appearance of austere dignity lurked the most uncontrollable desire to create merriment and fun.  He was sharp, and naturally witty, and had a keen sense of the ridiculous.  His opponents always feared him, for in controversy he was sure to give them some cut, when it was least expected, that would put them in the most ridiculous point of view, and, while doing this, not a smile would disturb his own absurd dignity.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the Summer of '49 a man was arrested for shaving all the hair off the tail of a very fine American horse, which a citizen had brought all the way from Kentucky to Santa Cruz.  The culprit had done this to utilize the hair for making a riata.  When brought before Alcalde Blackburn he confessed his guilt, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Young man," said the Judge, with solemnity, "I see you are a newcomer, and I therefore excuse your ignorance, and will answer your question for this once.  In this instance I go by the oldest law known to civilization; I go by the Mosaic law, a tooth for a tooth, an eye for an eye, you know, young man; and permit me to advise you to be more careful in the study of your Bible; there is nothing like it, young man."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The sentence was literally carried out, to the great amusement of an assembled crowd.</P>
181.sgm:<P>On another occasion his courtesy to the newcomers from the State of New York saved a man's life, in this way: A man in Santa Cruz borrowed a horse from an acquaintance to make a trip to Monterey.  In that town he was offered a fine price for the horse, which he considered more than its value, so he accepted the money, at the time intending to bring it to the owner of the horse.  But that night he was induced to try his luck at cards, and lost every dollar; so, on his return to Santa Cruz, he had neither horse nor money to present to the owner.  The owner was enraged, particularly as the horse was a favorite one.  He had the defaulter arrested and brought before Alcalde Blackburn, accused of the crime of horse stealing; a jury was then impaneled, and the lawyers on both sides made long, brilliant speeches.  The jury retired, and it was not long before they returned with a verdict of "guilty, as charged," and, besides, ordering the man to be hanged forthwith, for, in those days, the Alcalde juries always determined the punishment.  On hearing the verdict the Judge quickly asked the foreman by what State laws they had been governed in this instance.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"By the laws of Texas," was the reply.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said the Judge, "that is all right enough, but you must all, gentlemen, observe that a number of New Yorkers have lately arrived in our State; now, I think, just as a matter of good-will to them, it is time their State laws should have some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The jury seemed to think this courtesy to the State of New York a good idea, so they did as the Judge told them, and, after awhile, appeared with the verdict, "guilty of a breach of trust;" punishment--the prisoner to lie in jail until he should pay the owner of the horse the money he sold it for, together with all the costs of prosecution.</P>
181.sgm:<P>THE JUDGE EXPOUNDS THE LAW OF MATRIMONY IN CALIFORNIA.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the Summer of 1849 the Judge took a trip to the mines with some friends.  Then there was no steamer on the Sacramento, so the party proceeded up the river in the usual way at that time, by schooner.  When night came they generally dropped anchor in some quiet little turn out of the river, went on shore and built a large fire, in the smoke of which they defended themselves from the terrible swarms of mosquitos that threatened to take their last drop of blood.  On one such occasion the Judge's party dropped anchor opposite an embryo little town, consisting of three or four shanties.  As the Judge and party entered the town they heard loud voices, as if in angry dispute, in a house near them.  On going to ascertain the cause, they found all the inhabitants of the town, consisting, perhaps, of a dozen men and one woman, in great excitement.  This house, it appeared, was the residence of the local Alcalde of the district.  One of the men present, a tall, well-built Missourian, had come, with this only lady of the neighborhood, and demanded of the Alcalde that he should forthwith unite them in the bonds of wedlock.  This the Alcalde declined to do, which was the cause of the row.  Judge Blackburn now drew himself up to his full height, and, in his usual dignified way, asked the Alcalde the reason of his extraordinary conduct in refusing so reasonable a demand.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Because," said the Alcalde, "this lady has a husband living."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said the Missourian; "she had a husband, but he abandoned her, and has not been heard of for such a long time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The Santa Cruz Judge now bent his eyes keenly on the lady, and then turning to the Missourian, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How long, sir, is it since this lady's husband left her?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It is nearly three months, and when he left he told her he would be back in a month; so, you see, he is dead to a certainty."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Three months!" repeated the Judge, in a tone of astonishment, while his eyes were bent on the Alcalde.  "Did you hear, sir?  Three months!" repeated the Judge.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I have heard," said the Alcalde, "but I will have nothing to do with this business."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Any man," said Judge Blackburn, "in California who has a wife, and so fine a looking wife as I see here before me, and who remains absent from her for three months, must be insane, Mr. Alcalde, or dead; and in either case the lady is free to marry again.  I am Alcalde of Santa Cruz, and will with great pleasure, perform the required ceremony to make you two man and wife.  Step forward, madam, step forward, and don't be bashful; have confidence, madam; I feel sure you will get through this trying occasion without fainting, if you make the effort and do not give way to your natural shyness.  Step forward, my dear sir, by the side of your blushing bride, and I will make you a happy man."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The ceremony over, the Judge turned to the obstinate Alcalde and said, with a patronizing sort of an air:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are a newcomer, my dear sir, in California, and are are, therefore, excusable for the extraordinary position you took on this occasion.  When you are longer among us you will understand `our ways,' and make no such grave mistakes as you did this evening, which came very near destroying the happiness of two innocent, loving hearts."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then came a man with a fiddle, and all was soon uproarious fun until a late hour that night, in which the Santa Cruz Alcalde appeared perfectly at home, and the happiest of the happy.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After the organization of the State under the first Constitution, a lawyer of the name of Pur Lee was appointed County Judge of Santa Cruz County, and a man of the name of Peter Tracy was elected County Clerk.  The Judge was an American and the Clerk was Irish by birth.  When sober, they were both refined <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>He arose to sum up; and, after reviewing the testimony, dashed right into his seaside speech.  All now appeared to be in wild excitement in the courtroom, to his imagination.  His memory did not fail him, and he had just entered on the Fourth of July part of his speech, which he considered most beautiful, and was away up among the stars in the azure firmament, when, to his consternation, the Judge interrupted him with:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. S., I have an authority here which I would like to consult before we proceed further, as to that last statement you made to the jury."</P>
181.sgm:<P>S. is almost thrown into despair at this unexpected blow from his honor, the Judge; but, wiping the perspiration from his forehead, he stammered out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, your honor, what is the authority you wish to look at?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Judge quietly looks down from his bench upon Tracy, the Clerk, who was seated at his desk, before him, saying in the coolest way:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Peter, hand out that authority."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Peter, equally unmoved, without answering, draws from under his desk a well filled demijohn, three or four glasses and a pitcher of water, placing them all on the bench before the Judge.  The Judge then, while deliberately helping himself to a well filled glass, says:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Come, Mr. S., I know you must be dry, and you have overexcited that jury, so they had better come too.  And Mr. Crane, your opponent, had better come also; for I see plainly that he has lost this case and needs a little consolation."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In astonishment, up walks S., in company with the jury, officials, lawyers and all, to enjoy the refreshment of the demijohn.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After a second round of drinks the Judge exclaimed, addressing the jury:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I believe, boys, you are going to give this case to S."</P>
181.sgm:<P>To this the jury all assented; so the Judge, turning to George Crane, continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That being the case, George, there is no use in pressing the matter further; it would only be a loss of time, and, besides, I see it is dinner hour."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, turning to S., he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You can just reserve the rest of that speech for your next case; I see you have it well committed, and are not likely to forget it.  It will do for almost any occasion, you know, and I thought it a pity to let you throw it away on a case already won."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This created merriment at S's expense, which he quieted by taking Frank Alzina's hint.  Frank was the Sheriff, and in social tastes was something of the same sort with the Judge and the Clerk.  The hint he gave to S. was that as soon as they reached the hotel for dinner, "a basket of champagne would be in order."</P>
181.sgm:<P>S's friends in Santa Cruz county, when telling this story, always add that S. did in fact utilize that broken-off speech afterwards, on the occasion of his being elected Speaker of the California House of Assembly, two years later.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Be this as it may, it is certain that to this day the usual way of asking a friend to drink in Santa Cruz is, "let us consult an authority."</P>
181.sgm:<P>L. S., now a wealthy merchant of Santa Cruz, told me, among many good anecdotes of early times, one which will serve to explain what sort of ministers of religion the authors of the "Annals of San Francisco" saw in gambling dens, as they represented they did, '49, '50 and '51.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. L. S., the merchant I allude to, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I was brought up as a machinist in my native State of Maine, and worked at it while there, and in the city of Boston.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I suppose, young man, you are willing to charge this job as done for the Lord."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Not much," said I.  "When I want to send money to the Lord I will choose my own messenger."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He then begged off for the present, promising to pay when he got in funds; so I agreed to trust.  He soon afterwards, I found, traded off the horse I had shod for one without shoes.  The new horse he brought to me to shoe, and again begged off for want of funds.  This, I found, was a sort of a game of his, for it occurred the third time.  The last time he assured me that after the next Sabbath meeting he would pay me out of his collections of that day.  So, for the third time, I trusted him.  Monday morning came, but no Mr. Preacher to pay his bill.  On mentioning the matter to one of my customers, he told me that Mr. Preacher had preached his farewell sermon, and had taken up quite a large collection, and was to start for the Northern mines that day.  The road by which I knew he must leave our neighborhood was not far from my shop; so I started for it, and taking my seat on a large rock I waited for his appearance.  I was not long there when the preacher came, leading a pack-mule with all his traps.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>I had a revolver in my belt, as was the universal custom at that time, but I did not take it in my hand, or make any motion to do so.  I saluted the preacher politely, saying I had come for my bill, as I had heard that he was leaving "the diggings."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He began to make excuses, and, with a whine, to talk of the Lord.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Come, come," said I; "you will find I mean business, this time.  So out with the $48 you owe me; and to be candid with you, preacher, I will tell you plainly that I consider you nothing more nor less than a hypocritical knave."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You mean what you say, S., do you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You will find out if you do not hand out my money."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then there is nothing left but to pay you, I suppose."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I see no way you can escape," said I.  "So you had better act the part of an honest man and pay your debts."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He handed out the money, and, as he did so, said with a good humored smile:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I see, Mr. S., that you will do to travel.  Good morning."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In about four months after this interview with the preacher I got a good opportunity of selling out my business, which I took advantage of, as I wished to visit San Francisco and see what I could do to make money in a more agreeable way.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The second day after my arrival in the city, I was surprised, while sauntering around, to meet my friend, the preacher.  He was most cordial in his recognition, and I observed that he had lost all traces of the long-faced, canting exhorter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What church do you preach in now?" I asked.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Preach!" said he, "I have given up all that d--d humbug.  It did not pay worth a cent.  How much money have you got, S.?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>I was not much disposed to let him into my affairs, but I answered:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"A thousand dollars, or so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said he, "I have a thousand, or so, more; and that will be plenty to let us open a monte bank.  It will pay like smoke."</P>
181.sgm:<P>I pretended to acquiesce, and drew him out on the whole plan of operations, which I found out was a well concocted plan of villainous swindling, from beginning to end.  I excused myself, just then, on the plea of an engagement for that hour, but agreed to meet him in front of the Parker House at the same hour next day.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The next day I took a look from the upper side of the Plaza, and there I saw my ex-preacher walking backwards and forwards in front of the Parker House, evidently waiting for the interview with me, and there I left him; and that day I started for Santa Cruz county, where I have lived ever since.</P>
181.sgm:<P>EUGENE OF GREENHORN, OR THE IMPARTIAL JURY.</P>
181.sgm:<P>On Greenhorn Mountain, in my county (Kern), years ago, there lived a little Frenchman, known to every one as "Eugene," and I think he lives there to this day.  He was a miner and a merchant both.  He kept a store, well supplied with miners' goods, and in the rainy season worked himself in the placer claims that were, in places, often very rich on Greenhorn.  On one occasion he had collected twenty-nine hundred dollars' worth of dust, and, thinking himself unobserved, he deposited it in the bottom of an old abandoned shaft, which was a favorite hiding place of his for spare cash.</P>
181.sgm:<P>This time, however, two travelers, who lay in the shade of some scrub oaks near by, saw him descend into the old shaft.  He was no sooner out of sight, after coming out, than they were in the shaft to prospect.  They found the treasure, and made off with it.  It so happened that Eugene returned to the shaft again that very day, to make another deposit, and discovered his loss. He at once made for the Constable of the district, "Scotty George."  He told Scotty that if he recovered the dust he would give him half of it as a reward.  This was a good offer, so Scotty went to work, and soon got traces of the traveling thieves.  He took a couple of determined men with him, and overhauled the robbers at White River, at the foot of the mountain, and captured the sack of dust, yet unopened.  But he found there three men, apparently concerned together in the robbery.  So Scotty marched all the men back to Greenhorn.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At this time, there was a man of the name of John Hudnut acting as Justice of the Peace in that district.  Before him Scotty took his three prisoners.  Hudnut at once impaneled a jury to try them for robbery, assuming to himself the power of Grand Jury, County Court, and all.  When the jury was sworn in, two smart fellows were got to act as lawyers--one for each side.  I recollect that one of them was a man of the name of Ferguson, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The jury, after hearing an eloquent speech from each of the lawyers, and a pointed charge from the Judge, gave their verdict, or decision.  It was to this effect: Scotty George was first to take half of the recovered gold, in accordance with his contract made with Eugene, and then the remaining twelve hundred and fifty dollars was to be equally divided between Eugene, the Justice, the two thieves, the members of the jury, and the two lawyers--share and share alike.</P>
181.sgm:<P>On hearing this verdict, Eugene began to dance around, wiping the tears from his eyes, while he swore every French oath he had ever heard in his native country, supposed to give relief on such an occasion as this.</P>
181.sgm:<P>There was one other man also dissatisfied; the man wrongfully arrested.  He made a great outcry about being left out in the cold, as he said, as they had not awarded him a dollar.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Justice Hudnut, with apparent astonishment, remonstrated with this unreasonable man.  He said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Young man, what are you blowing about?  Did you not prove to the full satisfaction of the jury that you were entirely innocent of any part in this nefarious transaction I have just been taking cognizance of?  How could you, then, expect that the jury would give you a share of the gold dust?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The outsider now saw his mistake, and that he should have pleaded guilty; but it was too late.  Scotty George thought his friend Eugene <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
181.sgm: come out of the business rather badly, so he gave him four hundred dollars out of his own share, and he also gave fifty dollars to the innocent man.  So all were now happy except poor Eugene, who never ceased to mourn his loss.  This celebrated case is often told over in Visalia, where all the parties were well known, and is, in all respects, literally true.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>DAN MURPHY DISPERSES HIS SQUATTERS.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Daniel Murphy owned a large and valuable tract of land in the southern part of Santa Clara county.  In old squatter times this splendid property did not escape from the wild squatting fever that ran through the whole country, while the titles to Spanish grants were yet unconfirmed by our government.  Dan took no notice of his squatters, never even ordering them away.  This was a different sort of policy from that pursued by most of the other land-holders, and the squatters hardly knew what to make of it.  At length they grew very uneasy, and finally concluded to consult a lawyer, of the name of Green, who was a sort of a public nuisance at that time, pretending to great learning in all the laws that related to Spanish grants.  This fellow secured a good round fee from the squatters, and undertook the investigation of Murphy's title to his ranch.  In due time a meeting was called, to hear Green's report, at a large house built by a squatter, about where the "Eighteen-Mile House" was afterwards built, on the San Jose&acute; road.  Just as the meeting was called to order, with Doctor Lively in the chair, some one spied Murphy himself riding leisurely along the road toward San Jose&acute;.  A proposition was made to call him in, that he might hear Green's report and defend his title, if he could do so.  Without hesitation, Dan accepted the invitation.  Green read his report, and explained it all first rate.  It completely demolished Murphy's title to the ranch, and even hinted that Murphy was a trespasser in removing or taking away any of the cattle.  The cattle, it was said, belonged to the ranch, and the ranch belonged, beyond all doubt, to the settlers who had staked out their claims on it.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As soon as Green took his seat, the chairman of the meeting requested Mr. Murphy to say what he wished in defence.  But Mr. Murphy, in the most condescending and polite way, requested other gentlemen to give their views.  So, one after another, all the smart talkers relieved themselves of their thoughts, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Boys, I have not a word to say, but that I have seldom or ever spent so pleasant an afternoon as I have to-day, listening to so many fine talkers, and I think the least I can do on this occasion is to treat the crowd.  In fact, I think it is my treat, so I invite all hands to come into Doc. Lively's saloon, where we will have a good, old-time hot-whisky punch, for it is now late and getting cold."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The squatters were surprised and evidently put out at this way of taking Green's attack on his title, but in the prospect of a free drink they soon lost sight of everything else.  So they accepted the invitation and drank freely, and parted with Murphy in the best of humor.  As Dan threw himself into his saddle, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Above all things, boys, take care of that enterprising young lawyer, Mr. Green; he is certainly a starter for a Chief Justice, or something of that sort."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a moment more Dan was out of sight, and the only dark, dissatisfied man he left behind him was the embryo Chief Justice, Green.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In one month after this meeting Murphy had not a squatter on his ranch.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In Tulare county, a little north of where I then resided, some years ago, there was a grand old-time rodeo.  Ten thousand cattle were said to be on the ground.  All the great cattle kings of Southern California were there; Lux &amp; Miller, Dan Murphy, Fowler, Dunphy &amp; Hildreth, O'Connor and many others.  Of course there were vaqueros without number, marking, branding and selecting out fat cattle for the market.  Soon there arose a great row among the vaqueros.  Then came the news that one of Murphy's vaqueros had drawn his six-shooter, and had dangerously wounded some other vaquero.  The wounded man went to the nearest Justice of the Peace, and had a warrant issued for the arrest of the belligerent vaquero.  There was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The District Attorney happened to be near at hand, and therefore appeared for the prosecution.  To the astonishment of that worthy official, after he had done up his side of the case, the first witness called by the defendant's attorney was an Irishman just arrived from Ireland, who candidly declared himself entirely ignorant of the whole matter, not even having been on the rodeo ground when the fray occurred.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That makes no difference, my friend," said Dan, "You know, undoubtedly, just what I want to show to this honorable Court.  I want you to describe to this honorable Court, to the best of your knowledge and belief, what a shillalah is, and for what purpose it is mostly used in Ireland."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The District Attorney here objected, and said that this had nothing whatever to do with the case.  The Justice said that he thought it better to let Mr. Murphy develop his theory of the defence of the prisoner in his own way, as the Court wanted "justice, yes, vigorous justice, dealt out on this occasion," and he wanted all the light possible thrown on the case.  "There was often," he continued, "great dissatisfaction found with the practice of the higher Courts, in excluding all testimony that could not be understood as bearing on the case before them."  This was a grave error, that should never be made in his Court, he hoped.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, with his eyes fixed on the District Attorney, with a reproving expression, he concluded, "The objection is overruled; Mr. Murphy will proceed."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Dan now showed, by this son of the Emerald Isle, what a shillalah was, and that it was used by powerful men at fairs and other public assemblies in Ireland, as a conservator of the peace.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then, my friend, from your knowledge of the shillalah, you consider it a peace-maker."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why then, indeed, Mr. Murphy, it makes peace very often, as well as sometimes pieces of a fellow's head."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, yes," interrupted Dan.  "Then you consider a shillalah a peace-maker?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Faith, it is sir; when it is a smart boy that handles it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, that is just what I wanted to prove, your Honor, by this witness; that in Ireland a shillalah is viewed by everyone as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"He can go to the Devil; I have nothing to ask him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Justice at once arose to his feet, and, looking at the District Attorney, said in a voice of injured dignity: "Mr. District Attorney, I allow no indecorous language in this Court, sir, and if you indulge again in such expressions during the examination of this important case, I will have to vindicate the dignity of this Court, and fine you, sir."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, as he wiped his face with his handkerchief to allay his excited feelings, he took his seat, and continued: "Proceed, Mr. Murphy."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Dan then called an old resident of Tulare county, and after he was sworn addressed him thus:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Hawkins, you have heard all our friend from Ireland has so clearly testified to, as to the shillalah.  Please state to the Court if you know of any weapon used in this county in a similar way, and if so, Mr. Hawkins, say what that weapon is."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I do; and it is a six-shooter, or revolver, as it is usually called."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Just so.  Now, Mr. Hawkins, please say to this Honorable Court if you have ever witnessed cases, with your own eyes, when this Tulare `peace-maker' did in fact make peace?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, when in good hands, it often makes peace; as it did today on the rodeo grounds, in the hands of that prisoner."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"District Attorney, you can take the witness."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I don't want him; he can go where I told the Irishman to go."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Justice looked very hard at the prosecuting officer, but said nothing, seeming to think his language just within bounds.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Dan then announced that he rested his case.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Justice asked the District Attorney if he would sum up his side, but that officer declined, muttering something, in a low voice, about justice and a d--d farce.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What do you say, sir?" said the Justice, in a voice of loud indignation.  "What is it you are pleased to call a d--d farce?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What I said was not intended to be heard by the Court."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well, Mr. Attorney, I take you apology; I know you could not so far forget yourself as to apply such language to this Court."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, turning to Murphy, he said:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Please, Mr. Murphy, sum up, and close this case."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Dan, it is said, fairly outdid himself in witty argument in defense of the prisoner, suitable to the testimony he had introduced.  When he closed, the Justice rendered a short oral opinion, closing thus:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"In my whole official career, I must say, I never recollect a case coming before me that was so well and ably handled in the defense as this case to-day; nor can I recollect a case so important in its character; so pregnant of results.  My friends, this case will, in the future, be cited by the most eminent jurists in the higher courts of the State, as a precedent not to be disregarded.  Mr. Murphy, allow me to congratulate you, sir, on the ability you have to-day displayed.  Your research into Irish authorities was entirely in place, fully as much so as the constant citation of English authorities our bar is so prone to.  In your case nothing but an Irish authority would have answered, and, I must say, it was exactly in point, and has enabled the Court to come to a prompt decision in this intricate case.  Your name, sir, will live as long as Tulare county has a `peace-maker' left.  The prisoner is discharged from custody, and this Court stands adjourned."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Soon afterwards the District Attorney took this case before the Grand Jury in Visalia, and sought to get the fighting vaquero indicted, and also the Justice of the Peace before whom he was examined, but Dan Murphy was called before the jury, and after hearing his statement they ignored both bills.  That evening the jurymen were Dan's guests at an extra good dinner, where, it is said, even the wounded man and the District Attorney gave in, and joined heartily in all the fun of the entertainment.</P>
181.sgm:<P>HOW DAN MURPHY WAS SOLD.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Long ago, I think in the winter of 1852, Dan Murphy sold a band of fat cattle in San Jose&acute;, where he lived at the time.  He was paid in gold coin, some fifteen thousand dollars.  This he put in his valise, all ready for an early start for San Francisco the next morning.</P>
181.sgm:<P>These were the days of stage coaches, and stage coaches only, as a means of travel in California.  So an hour before daylight, and a cold, disagreeable Winter's morning it was, the stage rolled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The protector of the lives and property of the people of San Francisco heard his story all through; but instead of showing any sympathy or being properly aroused into indignation, a smile showed itself on his face.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No joke," exclaimed Murphy.  "Chief, I like a joke as well as any man in California; every one knows that; but this is no joke.  Fifteen thousand dollars is a little too much to pay for a joke on one morning, even if it is California!  No, it is no joke, and I will not, Mr. Chief, put up with it as a joke."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Chief, without answering, took up a copy of the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Read that, Mr. Murphy."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Dan could not see what an advertisement had to do with his loss, but he did as he was told, and read the following advertisement, which was headed--</P>
181.sgm:<P>"ROBBERY MOST VILE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If the wretch who stole my valise from the San Jose coach, last evening, which contained valuable specimens of quartz rock, and four dirty shirts, will return the quartz, which can be of no use to him, he can keep the shirts if he needs them; and besides I will give him two dollars to get a good square meal with.  I can be found at the wholesale grocery store, No. 105 Sansome street, from ten o'clock to one in the afternoon.  The meeting will be strictly private, all on honor, and no questions to be asked."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now Dan's whole countenance changed.  He shook all over with a low, suppressed laugh, while he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That fellow has got me, sure.  I am in for it--suppers, champagne, theater and all.  Yes, as sure as there is a grizzly in California.  Yes, the fellow will take advantage of me, and have a crowd there to receive me large enough to fill a whole theater.  But there is no help for it; I must face the music, for he has me sure."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So Dan returned to the bank, gathered up the quartz, shirts and all, put them into the valise, locked it carefully, and, with the look of a martyr, while fun, however, twinkled in his eye, marched off boldly to 105 Sansome street, muttering to himself, as he walked and turned his head from side to side in an uneasy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>He was not mistaken.  The miner had him, sure enough!  A crowd of choice fellows were there to receive him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Dan, unfortunately, asked a question about his valise.  This, it was declared, nullified the promises given in the advertisement.  So Dan was arrested forthwith, tried in the back room of the store, by a jury taken from the crowd found in waiting, and of course, found guilty of stealing the quartz and four dirty shirts, and fined the suppers, champagne and theater tickets, just as he had foreseen.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Dan Murphy always declared that it cost him over three hundred dollars to pay that fine, and "put the crowd through all right."  But it is quite certain that no one enjoyed the spending of that money, or the fun of that afternoon, more than did Dan Murphy himself.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>ELLEN HARVEY;</P>
181.sgm:<P>OR,</P>
181.sgm:<P>THE WIFE'S DISAPPOINTMENT.</P>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>ON BOARD OF THE STEAMER.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a late Summer month of 1850 came steaming through the Golden Gate one of the Pacific Mail Company's fine ships, always so welcome to us Californians, as they brought us news of our old homes, and of friends dearly loved, with whom we had so lately parted.  It was one of our finest days, which are not surpassed by those of any land or clime on earth.  The sun shone out beautifully, and the bay was smooth and calm.  The luxuriant grass and wild flowers that covered the hills to the north in the Spring, were not there; yet, those grand old mountains looked imposing and beautiful in the distance, while even the broken sand hills, on which stood all of San Francisco that was then in existence, looked cheerful and bright.</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was about ten o'clock in the morning; the steamer deck was crowded with passengers--men, women and children.  There were twenty men to one woman or child.  To look at, they were a fine body of people; healthy, young and vigorous.  As you looked you could not help feeling that they were just the sort for a new State.  Easy self-reliance and bold, persevering courage shone out in all their movements, and in every expression of word or look you drew from them; while at the same time, anxious thoughts, hope, pleasure and a sort of sadness too, were plainly discernible.  Such expressions as, "How beautiful those hills to the north look in the distance!"  "What a magnificent bay!"  "So this is San Francisco," you could hear on every side.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The gentlemanly captain, released of his charge by the pilot, was the only entirely careless and happy looking man in sight.  As he answered the eager questions of his passengers, his voice rang out with a cheerful, light, happy tone.  There was a kind <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; where is Mrs. Harvey, sure enough," said Mrs. Dicks; "why is she not here?  Emma, my dear," she continued, addressing her little daughter, "run and look for Mrs. Harvey, and ask her to join us."  She added in a lower tone, before letting go her little daughter's hand: "Tell her the Captain asked for her."  Off the little girl bounded.  Let us follow her.  In a moment she is in the cabin; not a soul is there; she runs to one of the staterooms, and, without ceremony, throws the door open.  There, seated near a small table, is the lady Emma is looking for, her elbow resting on the table and her head leaning forward on her hand, apparently absorbed in deep thought.  She is young, not over twenty-one; she is dressed without show or pretence, but most becomingly, and, for the occasion, with exquisite taste.  No ornament but her watch and chain, a diamond ring that guards the plain gold one on her wedding finger, and the bright diamond cross-pin that fastens collar and dress close to her throat, an emblem of unselfish love and of truth and purity that it is impossible to dim or tarnish; it looks so useful and so in keeping with her own surpassing beauty, that you do not remark it, but feel that you would miss it if it were not there.  She is a little over middle height; her hair, of which she has a profusion, is as black as the glossy wing of a raven; her eyes are a dark hazel, full of soul, tenderness and decided character, as such eyes always are; her beautiful and fully developed figure is as faultless in form and outline as the expression of her countenance is dignified, sweet and bewitchingly charming.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! Mrs. Harvey," said Emma, "we are almost in the bay; San Francisco is clear in sight, and looks so beautiful! and we are all so happy! and mamma says, come up on deck, and that the Captain asked for you."  Off Emma bounded, without <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Katie, I must go on deck.  Where is my warm shawl?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Here, ma'am," said Katie, placing the shawl upon the lady's shoulders.  "But why," continued Katie, "do you look almost sad, my own dear Mrs. Harvey, and say <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Katie, I should be happy, and am happy, you good, dear girl; I always like to hear you praise my darling husband, and no one can praise him enough; but, oh! Katie," she continued, taking the girl's hand in hers, while every feature of her beautiful face became intensely expressive, and her sweet voice for a moment sank low and tremulous, yet was clear and deep, "as I near the spot where I am to meet him, a strange foreboding sometimes seizes on me that I can in no way account for or at once shake off; a foreboding" (here her voice for a moment choked, and leaning forward until her lips touched Katie's ear, as if she herself feared to hear the words she was trying to utter) she continued, "a foreboding that Frank and I are not again to meet."  There was something so earnest in her look and manner that Katie trembled to her very feet, but, recovering herself, she said in a cheerful voice, "My dear, dear Mrs. Harvey, you must not let such bad thoughts haunt you; you will see that it is the Evil One who is tormenting you, and that you will be happy with your husband this very day.  There, now," said Katie, "go on deck; the only fault I find with you is that you are too handsome, and that you make all those fellows up there so sorry that you are married, poor fellows!  I do pity them when I see them trying to say something complimentary to you, but are afraid of your eyes to do so, as I heard one of them say the other day."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah! Katie, you must not be such a flatterer; however, I know what you are at now, you want me to laugh at your absurdity, so I forgive you this time, and somehow you do make me feel better and happier.  I do believe it must be the Evil <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"No," said Katie, "because the bad One saw you were too happy, and he wanted to bother you; that is his old trick."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Harvey could not help laughing outright at Katie's off-hand and confident way of accounting for thoughts and feelings that gave her so much trouble.  The dark shadows that but a few moments before had oppressed her so heavily were now almost wholly gone; she began to feel light hearted, joyous and happy in the almost certainty, it now appeared to her, of being in another hour, perhaps, clasped in the arms of her loved husband.  Before going on deck she turned once more to Katie, and once more took her hand; this time, in a totally different manner.  There was a sweet, arch expression, almost a smile, on her lips, as she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Katie, you are a good girl.  I think you have a secret."</P>
181.sgm:<P>At this Katie's handsome face crimsoned to her hair.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I see I am right," said Mrs. Harvey, with almost affection in her tone.  "It is not through idle curiousity I speak to you now, but to say to you that though I feel very much disappointed at losing you, for I know I never can get a girl like you or one I can think half so much of, yet I am pleased with your choice, for from what the captain says of Peter, I think you cannot fail to be happy with him.  He is of your own religion, and is moreover an excellent young man in every way.  Is it settled between you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, ma'am; I believe so, if you do not object," said Katie, her voice trembling a little as she spoke.  She regained her self-possession, however, and raising Mrs. Harvey's hand to her lips she kissed it affectionately, and continued, "Peter says he has saved a handsome sum, out of which he has bought a nice little cottage in San Francisco, and that in a little more time he will have enough to get a partnership he is offered in a good wholesale grocery business, and that then he will give up his place here as assistant engineer and remain at home all the time.  I am sure I do not know what he sees in me to make him so willing to share everything he has with me; but," said Katie, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I feel sure of that, Katie," said Mrs. Harvey, "and I do not care how good Peter is or how much money he has saved; the bargain is as good for him as it can be for you; and now, Katie, if we can do anything for you both, to make things run smoothly, you have only to mention it, to be sure of the right response.  There, I must go on deck; the captain may have something to tell me.  I spoke to you of your own affairs, as you might want to speak to Peter before you went on shore."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Mrs. Harvey finished speaking, she turned round to the little table, and without allowing Kate an opportunity to thank her, dropped on her knees in prayer.  Katie joined her, and for five minutes God and His angels alone filled their thoughts, as they implored protection in their new home.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Mrs. Harvey came on deck the steamer was just passing the now famous Alcatraz Island, at that time the undisturbed residence of thousands of wild fowl.  She joined Mr. and Mrs. Dicks, under whose protection she had made the voyage.  In a moment they were surrounded by twenty gentlemen, all of whom seemed anxious to have a parting word with the charming girl.  She was kind, polite and affable to all, and to all equally so.  There was something of the queen in her bearing towards them; something that made them feel that they were her subjects and must stand at a distance, and respect as much as they admired.  To their joyous jokes of the approaching sad loss of her grass widowhood and freedom, she retorted with charming wit, and in the general mirth and laughter half hid the enchanting blush that the allusion spread on her cheeks.  The captain now came forward, and said in the kindest manner:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I congratulate you sincerely, Mrs. Harvey, on your approaching happiness; but I want to tell you that I am full two days ahead of our usual time, and therefore that you must not be <HI REND="italics">too much</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Harvey did feel very much disappointed.  Her cheeks grew pale, and she did not speak.  The captain continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I could not see you this morning when the pilot-boat was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Captain," said Mrs. Harvey; "you were very kind to think of me with all your own duties pressing you at such a time."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said the captain, "to see to my passengers is one of my duties. and in this case a most pleasing one."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, thank you, Captain, a thousand times, for this and all your other kind attentions, to which I owe so much of the pleasure of my voyage."  As she said this she extended her hand to him with frank cordiality, and continued: "If you ever have time to visit us in our new home, be assured of a most welcome reception from my husband as well as myself, and it may perhaps give us an opportunity of showing you how sincerely we appreciate all your kind attentions."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just at that moment, while the Captain was replying in his own gallant way, the steamer dropped her anchor and the boats from shore surrounded her.  In a minute more Henry Philips, Mrs. Harvey's cousin, was before her.  He greeted her with the same warm affection he would have done a loved sister, calling her "Darling Cousin Ellen."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the following chapters Ellen's story is told by Henry Philips, as he repeated it to me.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>A PLEASANT LUNCH PARTY--RETROSPECT.</P>
181.sgm:<P>To Cousin Ellen's eager inquiry for Frank, I told her that he was not in San Francisco, but would be as soon as the river boats got in that night.  "We did not expect the steamer,"  I told her, "until the day after to-morrow.  But do not fear, we will take care of you, dear cousin, until he comes," said I.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ellen tried hard, I saw, to hide her disappointment as much as it was possible, and busied herself introducing me to Mr. and Mrs. Dicks, who were compelled to leave that afternoon in the Sacramento boat.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then," said I, "I will myself stay on board until Frank gets here.  I know how you are disappointed, cousin Ellen, but it cannot be helped, and you can just pass the time in telling me all about my dear father and mother, Aunt Mary and Uncle John; and all about my own little Jennie, and how she gets on without me.  You know you will not have time to tell me after Frank arrives."</P>
181.sgm:<P>I spoke in such joyous spirits that Ellen could not but feel happy, though disappointed.  Just then Katie made her appearance.  She was an old acquaintance of mine, having lived with my aunt, Mary Harvey, for some years; so I shook both her hands and welcomed her to California, saying at the same time that I had a husband picked out for her, all ready to marry her on sight.  Katie laughed and blushed, and before she could reply Ellen told me that she thought I was too late, for that Katie's market was made, and well made, too.  At this I pretended to be very mad, and declared the fellow I had engaged her to would undoubtedly sue me for a breach of primise, as women in California were very scarce.  Just then came a message from the Captain that lunch was waiting for Mrs. Harvey and her friend.  Ellen took my arm, and we descended to the cabin.  There we found spread a lunch that looked most inviting.  It would, in fact, have done honor to a first-class hotel.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Why," said Ellen, "is <HI REND="italics">this</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Mrs. Harvey," said the Captain, evidently pleased, "this is nothing to what you will find on shore."</P>
181.sgm:<P>I personally knew almost all present who had come on board to welcome the Captain.  There was Mr. Merideth, the popular agent of the Pacific Mail Company, Charles Minturn, John W. Geary, William D. M. Howard, Charles Griswold, David C. Broderick, John Middleton and several other prominent citizens of our new State.  I recollect well how delighted Cousin Ellen was with this California company.  She seemed to enjoy their easy, off-hand ways, so entirely devoid of formalities, and she said to me, afterwards, that it appeared to her, after the first five minutes had passed, that she had been acquainted with the Captain's guests all her life.  Cousin Ellen was, of course, the center of attraction, for in those days a lady in California felt herself a queen, with but few to dispute her sway.  I have since often thought of this lunch, and when I do Cousin Ellen's sweet, ringing laugh comes back to me with indescribable sadness.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now I must go back and give you some of Frank Harvey's and Ellen's early history, so that their characters may be understood, while I faithfully relate the events that followed fast after that lunch:</P>
181.sgm:<P>Well, to commence with myself, I am the only son of John Philips, of the well-known firm of Philips &amp; Moncks, wholesale grocery merchants of Philadelphia.  My father had a sister, who married a Mr. Steward, a lawyer in handsome practice  in Lancaster, Pennsylvania.  They had but one child, whom they called Ellen, and her they left an orphan at the age of eight years, both father and mother having died of cholera in one short week.  On hearing the sad news, my father at once went to Lancaster, collected all of the property (and it was not much) his brother-in-law had left, and invested it for little Ellen, whom he brought to our house to be her future home.  She was a perfect little beauty, and as good as she was beautiful.  My mother had a sister Mary, who was married to a Mr. Harvey, a rich farmer near Harrisburg.  They also had but one child, a son, whom they called Francis.  About the time Ellen lost her parents, Frank, then fourteen years old, lost his father.  Mrs. Harvey remained on her farm, and an old bachelor brother of hers, Uncle John Grant, came to live with her, taking charge of her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>I had seen her twice during the last year of her school, but Frank, on both occasions, was unavoidably absent at his mother's.  At length they met.  How changed were both since the day Ellen so lovingly flung her arms around Frank's neck, and, while sobbing herself, kissed and wiped his tears away, telling him not to cry, for they would soon meet again.  Frank was now a tall, handsome, fine-looking man, with whiskers to match his dark hair, instead of the smooth, boyish face and figure he had then.  Ellen stood, a beautiful, fully developed, charming woman, instead of the weeping child he had left her.  I was by when they met.  It was a scene I would not have missed for anything.  Ellen had been at home a week when Frank arrived from his mother's.  When Ellen heard that Frank was in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Why, Frank, dear Frank!  I am so glad to see you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Frank grasped her hand as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And is this <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"But, Frank, you are a man."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But, Cousin Ellen, you are a woman.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, I know, dear Frank; but we are not, in fact, cousins, you know, and I am sorry we are not, and both children, as we used to be."</P>
181.sgm:<P>She said this with a tender earnestness that awoke a new, strange feeling in Frank's heart.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And I would be a child forever," said he, half reproachfully, "rather than endure such a cold meeting as this with you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"We cannot help having grown up, even if we are sorry for it, dear Frank," said Ellen, half laughing; "so let us make the best of it, and not be foolish."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a few days, it appeared to me they became reconciled to the change time had wrought in them, and I fully believe that Ellen was not so sorry after all that Frank was not, in fact, her cousin, as she expressed it, and was a handsome grown-up man, nor do I believe Frank was so very sorry that Ellen was a beautiful woman.  Anyway, if they were sorry, they showed it in a very strange way, for neither seemed to be happy except the other was in sight.  Here I will just mention, though I am not writing a word of my own history, that at the time I am now speaking of, I had a little sweet-heart myself, a perfect little witch, that could make me happy or miserable for a week, with just one look; a great pet, too, of my father and mother, Miss Jennie Moncks, daughter of my father's partner.  When I left home for California, Jennie and I were engaged, and she was in the habit of writing letters to me, full of tormenting fun.  Sometimes she would tell me in glowing terms about returned Californias hunting for wives, who visited her, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"When were you last at confession, and do you say your prayers regularly, morning and evening?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>When I pretended to take offence at this sort of a letter, she would write:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, darling, I cannot help it, if you do get mad with your little Jennie.  We are taught, you know, that there never was a man, or woman either, who can depend on themselves to keep in the right road.  The Old Boy is after us all, and he will surely get us, if God is not with us in the fight; so I want you to pray morning and night for us both, that God may be near us in all temptations, and I will do the same."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So my next letter to her would be a "make-up," and I felt that, perhaps, it was well for me that I had some one to pray for me and keep me straight, for if there ever was a place where the Old Boy walked out in open daylight it was San Francisco at that time.  As I dislike talking of myself, I will finish all of my own history that I am disposed to give, by saying that in the Spring of 1851 I returned to Philadelphia, fulfilled my engagement with Miss Jennie Moncks, and brought back to my California home as true a wife as ever stood by man's side in the battle of life.</P>
181.sgm:<P>But, to return to my story.  Frank and myself entered the house of Philips &amp; Moncks, as clerks, for one year.  Then we were to become partners in the house, and, after five years, to succeed to the business, when it was agreed that my father and Mr. Moncks were to retire from the firm.  The firm was then one of the most flourishing in the city, so our prospects were as bright as bright could be, and oh, what a happy year that year of our clerkship was to us all four.  No care of business beyond our daily duties, and these were not too burdensome.  Our evenings, our holidays, our Sundays, were all spent together.  No one went to a party or place of amusement if all were not to be there.  At home we were a little party in ourselves.  At times, Ellen and Jennie played and sang for us; other evenings, mother played the piano for us all to dance.  Sometimes, Frank and I would read some new and interesting book, aloud, while mother <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Ellen fully shared with Frank in all these noble sentiments.  She had a decided character of her own, and it would have been impossible, I know, for her to have ever loved a man whose honor, fidelity and truth was not beyond all question.  They both had, perhaps, one fault, and, so far as the human eye could discern, it was the only one.  It was the same St. Peter had, too much self-reliance; too confident, too proud, as it were, of their own determination to be good.  If this was so, they were both unconscious of it.  About the first of August, 1848, Frank went home to make his mother a visit, just six weeks before he and I were to enter the firm of Philips &amp; Moncks, as partners.  His mother was yet young, only nineteen years older than Frank himself.  His uncle, John Grant, was twenty years older than Frank's mother, a fine, hale, hearty old gentleman, devoted to his sister and to Frank, and, if you saw them all together, you would have supposed that he was the father of both.  Their manner to him was always loving and respectful; his to them devoted and fatherly.  They were both delighted to see Frank.  His mother hugged and kissed him, and then pushed him away, that she might look at him the better, and then embraced and kissed him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I cannot help it," said Mrs. Harvey; "Frank has grown so handsome, and looks so very like his own dear father."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When they sat to meals, Frank had to take his old place between them, and tell them all the city news and all the good jokes he had heard while away, to make them laugh and amuse them.  Both uncle and mother soon discovered that nothing pleased Frank so well as to talk to him of Ellen Steward.  In fact, they found it was very hard to get him to talk of anybody else.</P>
181.sgm:<P>John Grant waited one day until Frank had left the room, and then, turning to Mrs. Harvey, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, sister Mary, what do you think of it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Of what?" said Mrs Harvey.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, of course, of Frank and Ellen Steward getting married; you see his head is full of her.  Poor fellow!  I was once like him," added the old gentleman, with a deep sigh.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, brother," said Mrs. Harvey, "What do <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Of course," said John, "I think they had better get married out of hand.  You know I have the ten thousand dollars all ready that you are to pay to Philips &amp; Moncks on the fifteenth of October, the day Frank is to be taken into the firm as a partner, and then Ellen has a few thousands of her own, so I see nothing in the way.  I always loved Ellen dearly.  Her father was an old friend of mine, and she is a noble girl, just the one, in my view, for Frank."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Harvey remained in deep thought for some moments, while her brother walked up and down the breakfast parlor.  At length she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ellen is surely a noble, dear, good girl, as you and Frank both say.  She is beautiful and accomplished.  What more could I want for my darling son?  But," she continued, covering her face with her handkerchief, to hide flowing tears, "I will then be alone, for Frank will love Ellen so much he will forget me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Alone?" repeated her brother slowly, in a sorrowful, reproachful tone.  In a moment Mrs. Harvey's arms were around her brother's neck, and, while she kissed his cheek, she said:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Forgive me, brother; you misunderstood me.  Do not think that, for a moment, I can ever forget or undervalue your unselfish love and devotion to me since the day of my sad loss; but, brother, shall we not <HI REND="italics">both</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"You are mistaken, Mary," said John, "for I know Ellen so well that I know you will gain a daughter, and not lose a son, by this marriage."</P>
181.sgm:<P>After a little more conversation, Mrs. Harvey became not only reconciled, but now anxious for the marriage.  That day, when she took her usual ride out with Frank, she asked him if Ellen had any admirers.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Admirers, mother!" said he.  "Why, every one admires her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, but I mean lovers," said Mrs. Harvey.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Lovers!" repeated Frank, in astonishment; "of course, she has none.  I should like to see the fellow that would have the impudence to set up to be <HI REND="italics">her</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As Frank said this, he tickled Mrs. Harvey's blooded horses with his whip in a most impatient manner, exciting the animals so as to make it difficult to hold them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Are you sure, Frank," said Mrs. Harvey, with emphasis, "that Ellen has not <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"I am, mother, quite sure," said Frank, looking at his mother earnestly, and with a half frightened expression in his countenance.  Seeing a smile playing on his mother's face, he suddenly reined up his horses, and, turning toward her, said, in a beseeching tone: "Mother, <HI REND="italics">dear</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"And why, darling, do I pain you?  Surely you have no objection that Ellen should have a lover, if he is the right sort of a man."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But, dear mother, Ellen Steward <HI REND="italics">has no lover</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Well my son, I will tell you what I mean," said Mrs. Harvey, with a serious manner and countenance.  "It is this: I am well convinced that Ellen Steward <HI REND="italics">has</HI>
181.sgm: a lover, and I think it is time <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm: should know it.  <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"I glad," said Frank, as he brought his whip down with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"What is the matter, my darling child; are you unwell?" said she, in alarm.  Frank, without speaking, dropped into the seat by her, and, raising her hand to his lips, kissed it, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear mother, what you told me to-day, I find has made me perfectly miserable."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Frank?" she asked.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Because, mother, I find that it will kill me if Ellen loves any man."  Here he hesitated, and his mother added:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But yourself, I suppose."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, mother, I cannot say how that is, but I am sure that if I love Ellen in the way you mean, I did not know it before, and now, my darling mother, tell me who this fellow is who loves her, and whom you say she loves in return, in which I know you must be mistaken, mother."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The person I mean, my darling boy, is not far from here."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Not far from here?  Mother, who can you mean?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Mrs. Harvey; "it is so, and his is now in this room."</P>
181.sgm:<P>At this Frank jumped to his feet, and, looking the whole room over, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Surely, mother, we are alone."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then," said Mrs. Harvey, with a look of love and playful fun, "if I am right, one of us must be Ellen's happy, favored lover."</P>
181.sgm:<P>For the first time Frank read his mother's meaning.  Without a word, he threw his arms around her neck, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, mother; you are right.  I am Ellen's lover, and I trust you are right, too, in thinking that she loves in return.  Thank you, my darling mother, for showing me the truth."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The next day, Frank and his mother and Uncle John had a long talk, the result of which was that Frank started back to Philadelphia on the following Monday.  Just as he was seated in the stage, Uncle John whispered in his ear:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear boy, if you and Ellen bring matters to a close, mind there are two thousand dollars more, of my private fund, that I am going to give you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank--thank you, my dear devoted Uncle," said Frank, as the coach started off.</P>
181.sgm:<P>What a wild excitement was in Frank's heart the whole way as he returned to Philadelphia.  Over and over again he rehearsed the scene that was so soon to take place between himself and Ellen.  He did not look forward to it wholly without doubt and fear as to its result.  What man ever does?  For sometimes he would say to himself: "What if mother was mistaken?"  But hope and confidence predominated, and when his imagination would conclude the scene to his entire satisfaction, he was happy to half-intoxication.</P>
181.sgm:<P>He surprised us all by his arrival, as we did not expect him for another week.  However, we showed him by our reception that we were delighted to see him.  He avoided our oft-repeated question as to what caused his early return.  Ellen, who during Frank's absence had been thoughtful and almost sad, was now all gaiety and life.  As she met Frank, every feature of her face was beaming with pleasure, and she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am delighted, Frank, to see you.  But do tell us to what we owe the happiness of your sudden return."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He hesitated a moment; then, taking her hand, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It is a secret just now, but I will confide it to <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm:," and, drawing her close to him, he whispered in her ear: "I came darling Nellie, solely to be near <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm: and to <HI REND="italics">speak to you</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Ellen's heart bounded, and a deep blush suffused her face.  Why, she could not tell.  It was, that there was something tender and meaning, if not loving, in Frank's voice and manner; something new; something she had never noticed before; something that awoke a feeling in her heart that was wondrous sweet and strange.  That night when she retired to her rest, she repeated his words over and over--"I came, darling Nellie, solely to be near you and to speak to you,"--and each time the simple words sent the same wondrous joy through every nerve of her system.  "Is <HI REND="italics">this</HI>
181.sgm: love?" she whispered low to herself.  "Oh, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Thus one happy sweet reflection chased another until all her waking thoughts were lost in sleep.  If child-like innocence and angelic purity should bring happy, blissful dreams, surely they were Cousin Ellen's that night.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Yes, dear cousin; it is love you have discovered in your heart this night.  Love so unbounded, so confiding, so undoubting, so absorbing, that it is almost worship rather than love, and though Frank, who has won it, would not for all the world's honors, or for any consideration on earth, yield up one ray of its intensity and warmth, yet he will find it a dangerous, if it is a delightful treasure; for, if in life's journey, through human frailty, he should make one false step, you will find it hard to make yourself believe he was the being you loved and to summon charity to aid you in forgiving, where you cannot now believe <HI REND="italics">there could</HI>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE PROPOSAL OF MARRIAGE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Aunt Mercy, Frank's mother, had announced by letter to my mother Frank's intention of asking for Ellen's hand; so, that very night the old folks took the matter under consideration and concluded, with great pleasure, to favor his suit.  The result was, therefore, that when Frank came to see mother the next morning on the subject, she did not wait for him to speak, but, throwing her arm around his neck, kissed him, and told him to go and speak with his uncle.  Father enjoyed Frank's embarrassment very much, and for some time pretended not to view the matter favorably; but at length took pity on his almost sad face, and, walking over to him, he kissed his cheek, and, laying his hand on his head, said, in a voice full of love and kindness:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"God bless you, my boy.  Go and see Ellen, and if she herself wishes it I will give her to you with more pleasure than I would to any man living.  Mind, Frank, she is a priceless treasure.  She has always been a most loving daughter to me.  I never had any other, and if God had sent me one, I feel I could not have loved her more than I do my sweet, darling Nellie.  Take her, Frank," he continued, while tears glistened in his eyes; "but mind, I know she believes you what no man, or woman either, wholly is--perfect.  So be careful and watch that she may never be harshly undeceived, for the consequences might be terrible."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thanks, thanks, Uncle, a thousand times over and over," said Frank, kissing my father's hand, "for your consent, and for the advice you give me with it, which I promise never to forget."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Trust in God, dear boy, for your strength to do so," said my father, solemnly; and, again blessing him, they parted.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Frank, now, with bounding hope, sought Ellen.  He found her in the conservatory at her usual work for that hour in the morning, watering, trimming and arranging her favorite flowers.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nellie," said Frank, as he approached her, holding out his hand.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Frank," she responded, taking his hand in hers, and blushing, she knew not why.  Happy, happy Frank; happy, happy Ellen exchanged warm, true vows of love and fidelity.  Seal them, Frank, with a kiss so pure and holy that the angel who records can approve.  Yes, dear cousins; enjoy, to its utmost, that short but most happy hour--that hour that comes but once in any man's life; that hour the like of which is never found in any other part of all life's journey from the cradle to the grave; that hour, the bliss of which can never be comprehended by the mercenary, selfish and unloving.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I shall attempt no discussion of this scene between Ellen and Frank, but leave it to be enjoyed in imagination.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the afternoon of that day, it became known to us all that Frank and Ellen were engaged.  The news was hailed with joy by every one, and congratulations poured in upon them from all their friends.  At our home all was gaiety and happiness; never was there a betrothal more promising of a bright future than that of Frank Harvey and Ellen Steward.  The wedding day was fixed to be the day after Frank and myself were to become partners in the firm of Philips &amp; Moncks.  That great day at length came, as all such days will.  I shall never forget it.  It stands out in my memory in bold relief, as do other days marked by either joy or sorrow, and like them it is ever present when my thoughts are on the past.  The marriage ceremony was in St. Joseph's Church.  Rev. Father Bacbelin officiated.  I stood up with Frank; Jennie Moncks with Ellen.  Aunt Mary, Frank's mother, and Uncle John Grant were there, of course.  The church was crowded with friends, and all were extravagant in their praise and admiration of the young couple whose union they had come to honor.  This was not surprising, for Ellen was certainly of unsurpassing beauty, and Frank, in form, face and bearing, was just such as you would imagine a girl like Ellen would love and marry.  After the ceremony, when Aunt Mary, mother and father saluted the bride, they could not conceal their tears and agitation, but they were tears that told of overflowing happiness, not of sorrow.  On our return from church, we did justice to mother's splendid breakfast.  After breakfast, the happy loved ones set out on a visit to relatives in Baltimore.  They were then to join Frank's mother at her own home, and, after a little while, to return to Philadelphia and go to housekeeping, like old married folks, and Frank was to settle down in business for all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:! was their cry by day and the subject of their dreams by night.  Everything, from Heaven to Hell, but <HI REND="italics">gold</HI>
181.sgm: and its acquisition seemed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, dear Frank, we have found such a nice house; I know you will be pleased with it.  It has a beautiful garden, and everything just as you told me you would like.  I know you will take it the moment you see it.  The rent, too, is moderate."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Frank seemed for a moment embarrassed, but, kissing her again, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If it suits you, my darling, I know it will be just what I want."</P>
181.sgm:<P>His manner and voice did not escape the quick perception of his young wife.  While yet his arm was around her waist, she quickly turned towards him, and, laying one hand on his shoulder, with the other she raised the clustering hair from his high forehead, and, gazing for an instant with eager earnestness into his face, she said, in a questioning tone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Surely, you are not unwell, my darling; or has some more bad news come for the firm?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, dearest; I was never better, and we have had no more bad news, I assure you," said he, half embarassed and half annoyed, as he withdrew his arm from her waist.  Without saying a word, she slipped her arm in his, and, pressing it close to her side, walked on with him in silence.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Frank felt the gentle appeal, and answered it, in a manner, by saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My own gentle, darling wife, do not for an instant suppose I am withholding, or wish to withhold, one thought of my heart from you.  No; a thought, a feeling, a wish or aspiration entertained by me in which I could not let you share would become to me an intolerable burden.  No, my wife; you shall always share, for it is your right, all that is mine to share, be it joy or be it sorrow, even to my thoughts, let the consequences be what they may to either of us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While he spoke, Ellen's eyes, though swimming in moisture, were beaming with love, full on his face.  He continued:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"What you observed in my manner this evening was, that my head is full of the wonderful news from California.  Governor Mason and the United States Consul at Monterey have sent home statements that fully corroborate all the strange stores of gold-finding we have been reading of for some weeks past.  Aladdin's Lamp is nowhere compared to the wonders of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and other localities in California, where every man can be his own Geni and call up from the earth, at will, boundless wealth."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And do you really believe all this, Frank?"  said Ellen.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How can I doubt it?  You shall judge for yourself, for after dinner I will read for you the Mason and Larkin statements."</P>
181.sgm:<P>At dinner the only topic was California, and after dinner Frank, as he had promised, read aloud for us all the accounts of the gold discoveries, as given by Governor Mason and others.  Father was indisposed to believe, in full, the accounts, and urged that, though there was gold there, undoubtedly, yet it would require labor and capital to obtain it.  Ellen joined warmly in this view, and I could see that she looked pale, troubled and anxious the whole evening.  I thought to myself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, all poor Ellen's little castles of a contented home, in which she was to be the happy queen and Frank her idol, are likely to disappear just as she thought she was going to realize them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>That night, when they retired to their room, Ellen said, in an assumed, careless voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, old fellow, you have not said a word to me of our new home; the house I selected for us to-day."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, dearest, I have not; but to-morrow we will talk it all over.  Will not that do?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Ellen!  She could hardly keep from giving way to her feelings in tears, but, overcoming herself, she said, in a low, half-choked voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, leave it until then."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Frank was so full of California he did not observe the tone of her answer, and her feelings remained unknown to him.  He soon fell asleep, for, though excited, he was very tired; but in his dreams he was on the Sacramento river.  He murmured words in his sleep, but the only one Ellen could distinguish was that now odious one to her, "Gold!"  Ellen could not sleep.  But yesterday her heart was full of worldly happiness, and life's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"He never loved any one but me," and, stooping, she kissed his forehead.  Then, nestling more closely into her place, sleep soon came to soothe and calm her excited nerves.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>DEPARTURE FOR CALIFORNIA.</P>
181.sgm:<P>With Ellen the great struggle was over, and it did not take her by surprise the next day when Frank, seating himself by her, told her that he thought of going to California.  He explained to her all the advantages it was sure, as he said, to bring.  In the first place, he could not think of remaining in the firm as full partner after the great losses the house had sustained.  It would be ungenerous to his uncle to do so, and then he would only be one year away.  He would not only make a fortune for himself, but also be enabled to help Philips &amp; Moncks to make up their losses dy selling goods for them in the California market.  It would be an advantage, too, to Cousin Henry, he urged.  "And then, my darling, angel wife," he went on, "I wish to make this sacrifice for <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm:<P>While he spoke, Ellen kept his hand in hers, and calmly gazed on his face.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I would not be a wife worth having," she said, "if I doubted the sincerity of a word you have spoken; but, my darling husband, do you know that I would rather live my life in the plainest cottage in Philadelphia, and be totally unknown to all the world, if you were there, contented and happy, than live in a mansion of Eastern magnificence with a thousand slaves at my feet, if this worldly grandeur was to cost me one year's absence from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Then, laying both her hands on his shoulders, while her bosom heaved and expanded, her eyes beaming with the light of suddenly-awakened hope that she could solve the difficulty and ward off the terrible blow, she continued with wild animation:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, cannot I go with you?  Oh, yes, Frank; do say I can go; you know that aunt is proud of my knowledge of every description of housewifery.  There is no dish, she says, so plain or homely that my skill cannot do something to make it sweet and savory.   There is none so rare and uncommon as to be entirely unknown to me.  She boasts, too, of my needle, and says it would be as much at home in the miner's shirt or overalls as you have seen it in the embroidery you so much admired.  Oh, yes, dearest; do say you will have me go.  I will keep our little miner's cottage so neat, so bright, that it will be the envy of all.  I will train wild roses to embower and shade it from the hot sun.  Those beautiful California wild flowers shall decorate our table more charmingly than do costly ornaments the tables of the proud and wealthy.  I will gather the wild mosses they tell us of there, and fashion for you to rest upon, when tired and weary, a lounge that luxury itself might envy; and then I will read to you or sing you some favorite song, which will take us back, in our thoughts, to our old home and to the happy days when we were children together."</P>
181.sgm:<P>She went on, while her eyes swam with struggling tears:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Frank, do not speak of difficulties or dangers in the way, for there is no mountain that I would think rugged or steep if you were but there to lead the way.  There is no river or stream that to me would look dark or dangerous if you were but there to guard me.  There is no desert plain or valley that to me would seem lonesome if you were but there to cheer me.  There is no southern sun that to me would be unendurable, nor snow, nor north wind that I would not freely face, if you, my darling husband, were but there to love me.  <HI REND="italics">Here, here</HI>
181.sgm:," she continued, laying her hand on his heart, while her lips quivered with emotion, " <HI REND="italics">is my home, my world</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Frank clasped her close to his heart, while his frame trembled as if in agony; his head leaned forward until their cheeks met.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"I will not go, darling, if you cannot endure the trial."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In that short sentence Frank had struck a chord that ever lies near the hearts of the unselfish, generous and brave.  Ellen quickly raised her head, wiped all traces of her grief away; then, summoning to her aid all the strength or her great character, said in a calm, steady voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My husband, I have made you unhappy; those tears on your cheeks frighten me."  While speaking she gently wiped them away with her own soft handkerchief.  "Do not do your wife the injustice of supposing that she is so weak or childish that she cannot, with perfect contentment, do anything you may think right and proper for her to do, even if it involves a temporary separation.  I would rather, as I have said, face deserts, snows and burning suns and be with you, than have all the wealth and grandeur on earth, and you away.  Yet, my husband, depend on it I will feel happy, so happy, in doing whatever you think best for us both to do in this matter.  What you say about the advantage it will be to our dear uncle, who has been more than a father to me and to Cousin Henry, who is as dear to me as ever brother was to sister, will make the sacrifice sweet and light; so cheer up, my darling, my consent is given, and given freely.  One short year, and we will be again together, <HI REND="italics">never, oh never</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Again Frank clasped her to his heart, while he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Noble, noble girl!  Generous, heroic wife!  Priceless treasure of my inmost heart!  Can I ever love and admire you half as much as you deserve to be admired and loved?  But you shall see, my wife, I will strive to be worthy of you, and, my darling, you shall be the object of all the struggles and efforts I will make for success, not only in this California enterprise, but in everything I undertake, and do not allow yourself to imagine that this temporary separation is any trifling with the sacred vow we made to each other at the altar, never to part, for I but place you, as it were, in the background for a moment to shield you from a danger that, unavoidably, crosses my path.  No, my wife, believe me, I would rather die than even seem to trifle with that holy vow."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Be it so, be it so, my husband; and yet," said Ellen, dropping her voice almost to a whisper, "something seems to tell me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"There is no danger to me, my angel, be sure, that I cannot ward off; but there might be for us both if I were so rash as to expose you where common prudence forbids it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am satisfied, dear husband, and may God grant that we have decided right this day, and in the way most pleasing to Him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>That and the next day all was arranged with our firm.  Frank withdrew from it, and was to have twenty thousand dollars in goods consigned to him, for sale on joint account, in the California market.  The goods were to be shipped by the Greyhound and Grey Eagle, one of which was about to sail from Baltimore, and the other from Philadelphia, for San Francisco.  They were two of the first three clipper-built ships that entered the '49 California trade.  The third was the Architect, which sailed a few days later from New Orleans.  They were splendid ships, and made fine voyages; but they did not compare with that fleet of clippers the California trade so soon afterwards spread on the ocean, and which so astonished the marine world, not only for their matchless sailing qualities and freight capacity, but for the beauty of their structure and magnificence of their finish.  Frank also bought goods and shipped them on his own account, and then took his passage by the first steamship that sailed for Panama.  He arrived safely on the Pacific side of the Isthmus, but there he had some weary days to wait, as the steamer that was to take him to San Francisco had not yet arrived from her trip round Cape Horn.  It came at last, however, and in due time Frank arrived in San Francisco in the first steamer that ever entered the Golden Gate.  His judgment led him to believe that it would be best to locate himself as near the mines as possible, as they were, of course, the source of all trade in California at that time.  He therefore established himself in business in S--.</P>
181.sgm:<P>From the day Ellen had given her entire consent until the day Frank left us, she was cheerful, and, to a casual observer, appeared happy.  Frank's mother and uncle, John Grant, came to Philadelphia to see Frank off, and the arrangement was that Ellen was to go home with him and remain with Aunt Mary until Frank returned.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The sad morning of parting came.  We sat down to a very early breakfast--the last we were ever all to eat together.  This, of course, we did not know; yet we felt that it might be so.  Frank sat between Ellen and his mother.  I followed father's example in an effort to be cheerful myself and to make the rest so; without much success, however.  Breakfast over, Frank arose to bid us all farewell.  I will not attempt to describe that parting scene.  It was so terribly sad that its memory haunts me to this day.  Frank was no sooner out of sight than poor Ellen, who had held up all through with such heroic courage, now gave way and dropped into a death-like faint, from which she recovered only to relapse into another and another.  Then came prostration, and in the afternoon of that day a burning fever, in which she lay for three long days between life and death.  Aunt Mary and mother watched and nursed her day and night, by turns, and at length life, health and spirits all came back, slowly but surely, until Ellen was herself once more, cheerful and hopeful, if not wholly happy.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>SICKNESS--SUSAN MARSH, THE NURSE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In six months after Frank left, I also went to California and established myself in business in San Francisco.  Frank's success in California was all that any one could desire.  In fact, every speculation he touched seemed to turn into gold in his hands.  He made money for Philips &amp; Moncks by tens of thousands.  Every week he wrote to Ellen long, loving and always interesting letters.  Her credit at our house in Philadelphia was, by his orders, unlimited, and so the year wore away; but, at its close, Frank found it almost impossible to wind up his business and return to Philadelphia as he had intended, so he sought and obtained Ellen's consent to remain one year more.  In the following March he was taken most dangerously sick.  He occupied the upper part of his store as a dwelling, as was so common with us all in California to do at that time.  His bookkeeper and clerks also lived with him, but slept in a room back of the office on the first floor.  They had a Chinese boy for cook, so they lived comfortably, for Californians.  When Frank fell sick the clerks and Mr. Neil, the bookkeeper, took turns in nursing him, and, though kind in their dispositions, they made very indifferent nurses; besides, they had not the time to spare from the business that it was necessary to give to Frank's sick-room.  He grew worse and worse every day, until all became alarmed for his life.  He wandered in his mind, and became unconscious of all around him.  Mr. Neil now undertook to find a nurse, but for love or money none could be had.  The attending physician then undertook to procure one, and did so.  He introduced a young woman, Susan Marsh, as nurse.  She was handsome, bright, neat and kind in her manner, and proved a most excellent nurse.  There was nothing in her way of acting that gave the bookkeeper the least right to suppose that she was one of the unfortunates in character who were then, as now, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>On Monday morning, three weeks from the day on which she had undertaken her task, Susan Marsh arose from her sofa-bed in the little room adjoining Frank's.  She had watched late the previous night, and as a consequence slept late.  The morning sun was beaming into both rooms full and bright.  After a moment spent at her toilet, she walked with quick, noiseless step through the half-open door leading into Frank's room.  Then she looked anxiously towards his bed.  There was something, it appeared to her, unusual in the way Frank lay.  She advanced with the same cautious, soft step to the bedside; then, bending over him, a smile of triumph played on her lips as she recognized a most happy change in her patient.  Frank was evidently in a sweet, calm sleep.  Thanks to her handiwork, everything on and about him was as neat and white as the driven snow.  He was half on his side and half on his back, the bed-clothes partly thrown off.  His arms extended so as to give perfect freedom to his great chest as it rose and sank just perceptibly, indicating a sleep that was surely restoring health and strength.  Then a smile, just such as we see on the face of a dreaming infant, passed over his countenance.  It told as plainly of returning life as the first ray of the morning sun assures us that another day has come and is ours.  As Susan Marsh continued to bend over him, she exclaimed, half to herself: "Oh, how handsome!  What a splendid looking man!  And it is I who have saved his life!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, softly removing his clustering brown hair from his white forehead, she imprinted on it a passionate kiss.  The sleeper started, and, half awakened, raised one arm as if in search of something; then murmured in an indescribably tender tone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, my darling Nellie; I am better."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In an instant Susan was at her full height; she flushed scarlet to her forehead, then as quickly became deadly pale.  Her lips quivered and her frame shook as if a pang of bitter agony had pierced her through.  Frank had again sunk into his life <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Yes," she said, speaking to herself.  "They are from <HI REND="italics">her</HI>
181.sgm: --he shall never see them.  Let me see," she continued, "what the <HI REND="italics">loving</HI>
181.sgm: wife, who is too careful of herself to come to such a place as California, has to say to her far-off husband.  I suppose she pretends to love him ever so much.  Oh, you `California widows,' as they call you back in the States, you are so fond of your ease and your own comfort that you forget what the meaning of the word <HI REND="italics">wife</HI>
181.sgm: is.  You poor, miserable, creatures! you have no claim now to the husbands you refused to stand by in this their great struggle for fortune and for fame.  No! you are a contemptible set.  You are not true American women.  You are not true wives! even if it is <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As she was speaking, she tore open the letters and read them all through.  While she did so, she changed her position from standing to sitting, and again from sitting to standing; sometimes walking the floor with hurried steps.  As she concluded the last letter, she walked directly to the fireplace, stirred up the red coals, and with a sort of impatience pitched the letters on them.  As they blazed up high, she shook her clenched hand at them, saying fiercely:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; burn, you letters of a -- California widow; the meanest thing living on earth.  You talk beautifully of your love for him.  Why were you not here to do what I have done?  Watch by his sick-bed all through those dark, lonesome nights, without one to relieve or help me.  Yes! and the lonely days, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As she ran on, a maniac frenzy seemed rising in her face:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh!" she cried, with an imploring voice, as she clasped both her hands above her head as high as she could reach, "why am I not some good, honest man's wife?  I care not what his calling or occupation might be.  I would love and honor him; I would go to the ends of the earth with him; I would never leave him for a week, but work, work and struggle and struggle for our mutual happiness as no woman ever did before.  Oh! how happy that would make me.  But <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
181.sgm:, but <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
181.sgm:," she repeated, throwing herself into the rocking-chair, while she covered her eyes again with both hands with a grasp so tight that it appeared as if she was trying, by main force, to forever shut out the sight of some terribly hideous object.  "Oh!" she half groaned the words aloud, "do what I will, I cannot shut out the vision of my dark life, and I am compelled to go <HI REND="italics">on, on</HI>
181.sgm:; for society," here her voice was filled with bitter sarcasm, " <HI REND="italics">Christian</HI>
181.sgm: society, they call it, allows the erring woman no returning path; but they are liars," she said, with energy, "when they say <HI REND="italics">Christian</HI>
181.sgm: society, for did not the Savior of the world forgive Magdalen?  Yet there is none who will reach out a hand and show me a returning road; so <HI REND="italics">on, on I must go</HI>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Just as she made this exclamation, the door leading to the stairway opened, and a colored man, with a bundle of clothes carefully held in his hands, appeared.  This was "Black Bob," a man well known at that time in S--, whose wife was the best washerwoman in all that town.  Bob was remarkably intelligent, industrious and well liked by all who had occasion for his services.  He had been acquainted with Susan Marsh, and knew her history, and was now bringing the washed clothes necessary for Frank's room, and also Susan's own.  As he entered, she sprang toward him, holding her hand up as if she would strike him, almost screaming out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I say, did you say I had a home, when you knew it was false?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Missa Susan, do not take on so, for the Lord's love," said Bob, in a coaxing tone; but, not heeding him, she ran on, hissing the words through her half-closed teeth into his face: "You know I have no home.  You know that I am a miserable outcast--despised, insulted and hooted at by the very men that made me what I am."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Bob tried to soothe her by some kind words, while he hurriedly laid the returned washing on the little table near him, when suddenly Susan's eye caught the sight of a folded dress that Bob had carefully laid alongside the clothes.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What is this you have brought me?" she exclaimed, in a frenzy of passion, as she darted toward and seized the garment.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Missa Susan, that is the beautiful dress you left with Mrs. Weaks, the dressmaker, to be altered for you, and she gave it to me to bring to you.  Oh, do not spoil it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Susan now shook it out to its full length, nothing could exceed its beauty and richness.  Its cost was evidently up in the hundreds.  The sight of it seemed to frenzy the girl beyond all control.  She tried to tear it into pieces, and, failing in strength to do that, she cast it on the floor and danced on it, all the time uttering imprecations on the person who had given it to her, whoever he was.  Then, snatching it up, she cast it into the fire, exclaiming, while stirring it up with the poker:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; burn, <HI REND="italics">burn</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As the last shred of the beautiful garment turned into a gauzy cinder, she sank back into the rocking-chair, apparently almost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Bob stood a little way off, watching her closely.  "Ah," said he to himself, as he quitted the rooms, "the fit is now over.  I have often seen such with these poor creatures, but that is one of the worst I ever saw.  Oh, poor thing, you have a `home,' and it is nearer to you, I am thinking, than you look for, and it is just six feet long and two feet wide.  Poor, poor creature!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>After some minutes, Susan seemed to awake, as from a sleep.  She opened her eyes, yawned, sat upright, pressed one hand over her forehead, and gazed thoughtfully a moment into the fire.  Then said, in a quiet, calm voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I believe I have been making a fool of myself, but the vile fit is over.  I must now prepare myself, for he will soon be awake, and I must be ready to attend to him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As she spoke, she walked over to her wash-stand and bathed her face and nearly her whole head for some minutes in cold water.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, I feel like myself again," she exclaimed, while she commenced to dress herself with the utmost care, taking far more pains than she had any day since she had become Frank's nurse.  She looked in the glass, and was evidently pleased with herself; and, in fact, she did look very handsome, as she had dressed herself with the most becoming simplicity.  Nor had she much resemblance to the wild, crazy girl of a few minutes before.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How do you like that, Mrs. Ellen Harvey?" she said, as she smiled in the glass.  "He is your husband, and you love him, you say.  Well, so do I, and have <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
181.sgm:, who saved his life, no rights?  We shall see; yes, we shall see, Mrs. Ellen Harvey.  But know this, I am determined he shall not escape me; I shall stop at no artifice to win him and overcome his scruples.  Sighs, tears and smiles shall all come in just in the right places."  And then she added, while laughing almost aloud: "Yes; and then the devil himself will help me, for it is his work I am going to be about.  Your letters, too, Mrs. Ellen Harvey, will give me some help, some idea of his character, without which, perhaps, I should fail.  Yes, Mrs. Ellen Harvey; before two months are over I will be the `California Mrs. Harvey,' and then I will keep you quiet by getting him to send you plenty of gold.  That is all you California widows want.  You see I know your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Just then Frank awoke and called for a drink.  Susan gave it to him, with the gentlest and most winning manners.  He looked bewildered at her for some minutes, and, then, closing his eyes, he was fast asleep again.  From this day forward Frank's recovery was rapid.  The doctor explained to him that Susan was his nurse, and was high in his praises of her, telling Frank that to her he owed his life more than to himself.  Frank, though very grateful, of course, to Susan Marsh, saw the impropriety of her remaining longer with him; but, feeling secure under the shield of his devoted love for his wife, allowed himself to be over-persuaded both by the girl herself and the doctor.  Frank's letter to Ellen will explain what followed.  His appearance in San Francisco, sunk to the earth with sorrow, his sending me to S-- to dismiss the girl Marsh from his house, and his writing home to Ellen to come to California.  He found an escort for her in a friend of his, a Mr. Dicks, who was returning to Philadelphia for his own wife.  With bounding joy, Ellen responded to the summons, and she is now in the steamer cabin in San Francisco waiting for Frank's arrival from S--.</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>MRS. GABIT--THE WIFE'S ANGUISH.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After lunch, on the day of Ellen's arrival in San Francisco, I felt in fine spirits, and even Ellen appeared most happy.  Recollecting some business requireing my attention, I excused myself to her, saying I would be back at five o'clock, and stay until Frank came.  It appears I was not long gone when Ellen was surprised by a call from a Mrs. Gabit, a lady with whom she had a very slight acquaintance in Philadelphia.  This Mrs. Gabit had come out to her husband about six months before, and was living with him now in San Francisco.  She was rather good-looking and stylish in her appearance, but was a talkative and silly woman.  On seeing Ellen, she came forward in the most friendly and familiar way, as though they had been dear old friends all their lives, and said: "Oh! dear Mrs. Harvey, I am <HI REND="italics">so glad</HI>
181.sgm: you have come.  I declare you do look so beautiful!  As handsome as I ever saw you.  Oh, yes; you did right to come.  <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
181.sgm: am <HI REND="italics">so glad</HI>
181.sgm: you have come.  I <HI REND="italics">assure</HI>
181.sgm: you I am <HI REND="italics">very glad</HI>
181.sgm: you came.  In fact, it was your <HI REND="italics">duty</HI>
181.sgm:<P>She said this last with a meaning look.  Ellen was at first only disgusted at her uninvited familiarity, but now she began to look at her with half-puzzled astonishment.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Mrs. Gabit, for your being so <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh; <HI REND="italics">he did send</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Really, Mrs. Gabit," said Ellen, in a haughty, but yet moderate tone, "I do not understand you, or why <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm: should express yourself <HI REND="italics">so very glad</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well! dear Mrs. Harvey, I only speak for your own good.  Men in California, you know, are not to be trusted when their wives are away.  I know that from my own sad experience."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Ellen now rose to her feet and full height, and, with her bright eyes flashing almost fire, while her voice was steady and full of scorn in its tone, said: "Madam, if you come here to intimate anything against the honor of my husband, I will tell you that your insolence is only surpassed by the falsehood of the insinuation you wish to throw out, and that your further presence is most disagreeable to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, ho! you are assuming great airs about <HI REND="italics">your</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Leave my presence, wretched woman!" said Ellen, in a voice of fierce command, as she stepped one step forward and stamped her slender foot on the cabin floor.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; I will go, Mrs. Harvey, but first I will just tell you that you are making a fool of yourself for nothing, for your husband did live with a woman in S-- as his wife.  My husband knows all about it.  When I came here I did not intend to tell you, but you made me do so by your passions.  So now make the most of it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As she said the last words, she was standing on the cabin stairway, and in a moment was out of sight.  At first, Ellen remained fixed to the spot where she stood, as if bound by a spell; then both her hands with a sudden nervous movement clasped her forehead, as if she sought to steady her brain.  Katie, who had been present and had heard with terror all that had been said, now sprang to Ellen's side, and, throwing her arms around her, exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, dear Mrs. Harvey, it is all false; I know it is false.  She is only trying to make every one's husband as bad as her own.  You will see it is all false.  Come, come," continued Katie, "sit down here near me.  You must not mind the horrid woman.  I know it is false.  Think of how good Mr. Frank always was.  He would not think a wrong act, let alone do one."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ellen did as Katie asked her; she sat by her on the sofa and leaned her head on her shoulder.  She was as pale as death, and trembled from head to foot.  Katie continued to talk of the absurdity of all Mrs. Gabit had said.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are right, dear Katie," said Ellen, at length.  "I know it must be that it is, as you say, all false; but the woman has frightened me terribly.  Oh, how shall I hold out until he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:comes, or, oh, Katie, how will I meet him and be in any doubt?  For," she continued in a low, half-choked, hesitating whisper, "if it <HI REND="italics">were</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As she uttered the last words, she started to her feet, and, grasping Katie by the hand said, wildly: "Katie, I say I know it is false.  You said you knew it was false.  Oh, Katie! say so again, or I cannot wait for him to come."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie was terribly frightened, and again threw her arms around the form of the agitated girl, and, drawing her close to her bosom, she exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! my dear, dear Miss Nellie, for the love of Heaven be calm, and do not give way in this frightful manner."</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was a long time since Ellen had heard that old familiar address, which Katie had used in her fright, --"Miss Nellie."  It seemed to Ellen, somehow, as if it was a messenger from the past--the happy past--to assure her of Frank's innocence, and, yielding to the sweet thought, she threw herself back on the sofa, and, leaning forward, with her handkerchief over her face, found relief in a flood of tears.  In a little time she became calm, and apparently lost in thought; then said, half aloud, as if talking to herself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I must know before he comes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>She rose, and with composed step and manner, walked to her writing desk, sat down and wrote the following note:</P>
181.sgm:<P>My dear husband, how shall I dare write what I sit down to write?  Yet, I must do it.  The horrid woman, Mrs. Gabit, has just been here.  She insulted me in the grossest manner by insulting you, ever and ever loved darling husband.  Before I could drive her from the steamer cabin, which I was trying to do, she boldly slandered you, by saying--forgive me, darling husband for writing it--that you lived with a woman in S., as your wife.  I know my husband, that there cannot be even a shadow of foundation for the terrible falsehood, and now that I have told it to you, just throw this note in the fire and come to your wife.  Never mention this note or the slanderous statements, or the woman Gabit.  I do not want you to demean yourself by any contradiction.  All I want for a contradiction is your coming to me, your silence on the subject, and your opening your arms for me to fly to.  This will be all the denial I ask for or wish for.  But, Frank!  Oh, my God! if the horrid creature should have told truth, <HI REND="italics">never, never</HI>
181.sgm:<P>ELLEN HARVEY.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>When she had finished the note, she folded it with sudden haste, as if she wished to get it out of sight; put it in an envelope, and addressed it, "Frank Harvey, Esq., present."  She then handed it to Katie in the same hurried manner, and told her to give it to me on my return, and request me to meet Frank on board the river-boat, and deliver it to him, and to say to me, or any one who asked for her, that she was not well, and was resting in her stateroom.  I was surprised when Katie gave me this message and the note, but did not, just then, attach much importance to it, so I told Katie to say to cousin Ellen, that I would be back at half-past nine o'clock with Frank.  Just as I was leaving the cabin, Katie whispered to me, "Wait on deck until I come."  I did so, and when she came she told me all that had passed between Ellen and Mrs. Gabit.  While Katie spoke, she cried and sobbed bitterly, and I found my own eyes were not dry.  "But," said Katie, hesitatingly, and looking at me imploringly, "If it is a lie, all will be as well as ever."  I turned my head away from her, and made no answer to her questioning voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! merciful <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>With all the voice I could command, I said: "Not as bad, Katie, as that wretch of a woman said, for it was only for a week, and then there were extenuating circumstances, but I fear Cousin Ellen will never see any to excuse, and will be unable to forgive.  Heaven and earth!"  I ran on in excitement, "I do not wish that woman Gabit harm, but would it not have been most delightful if she had broken her neck, as she was coming on board the steamer?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It would, indeed," sobbed poor Katie, with hearty emphasis; "though, of course, I know it is not right to wish any one harm, but I cannot help feeling as you do, Mr. Philips."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The river-boat came in at its usual time, and I met Frank as he stepped on the wharf.  As I shook hands, I said: "The steamer is in, and Ellen is here."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank God! she is safe.  Is she perfectly well?" said Frank, taking my arm, and walking on with me in the direction of my store in Sansome street.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Perfectly; and looks more beautiful than ever."</P>
181.sgm:<P>We spoke no more until we were alone in my back office.  Throwing himself in a chair, Frank said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Henry, before I see her, she must know all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I supposed that would be your course," said I, handing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Forgive me, Henry; you shall see no more of this.  I have a man's work before me, and I will meet it like a man."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He then read Ellen's note with comparative composure, saying, as he handed it back to me to read:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Noble girl! it is my inevitable sentence, but it is only what I told you I had to expect.  Her angelic purity of feeling will be shocked beyond recovery."</P>
181.sgm:<P>I read the note, and then asked him what was to be done, and went on to tell him that I had done as he directed, and engaged rooms at the Union Hotel.  This was, by far, the finest hotel then in San Francisco.  It stood at the corner of Kearny and Merchant streets, opposite the Plaza.  After a pause, Frank said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"To you, Henry, I must now leave all.  Tell me what you advise."</P>
181.sgm:<P>I then told him to write a short note to Ellen, just to request her to go with me and take possession of her rooms at the Union, until she was calm enough to hear what he had to say in his defence.</P>
181.sgm:<P>He wrote as I advised, and I left him in wretchedness, walking up and down my office, while I went on my sad and most painful mission, to take part in and witness a scene which it is even now terrible for me to recall.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As the hour came for my return to Ellen with Frank, who can paint the misery of her feelings!  To her, more than life a hundred times hung upon the response to her note.  Minutes were hours to her now--an hour was a year.  She could not sit nor stand, nor stay in any one position.  She knelt to pray with Katie, but with every footstep on the deck her heart would leap to her throat and almost suffocate her.  Oh! who has ever stood waiting for news that was to be to them tidings of great joy or of deep sorrow, and not sickened and grew faint at the delay!  At length she heard my step and knew it well, but it was not the step her heart was listening for.  Pale and trembling, she started to her feet, and advanced to the middle of the cabin.  As I appeared, she said at once:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Frank!  He has not come?  The boat is not in yet, perhaps?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Confused and hardly knowing what to do or say, I mechanically reached her Frank's note.  In an instant she sprang forward, and, without taking the note, seized me by the collar with both hands; then looking me full in the face, with intense earnestness, she cried out, almost in a scream:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Henry Philips, is Frank Harvey, my husband, in San Francisco, and did he get my note?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>All I could answer was the terrible word: "Yes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Her hold on me relaxed, and leaning forward, with her hands tightly clasped before her, she continued for a moment longer to gaze in my face, as if, with a desperate effort, to find in its expression some ray of hope for her.  Then an indescribable expression of pain passed over her features.  Hope, that sunlight of the human countenance in the darkest and dreariest hours, seemed gone from hers in an instant, and forever; and, as the dark shades of despair replaced it, she uttered a piercing cry, and fell to the cabin floor as lifeless as if death had come in reality to end her suffering.  It was but the work of an instant to carry her to the sofa.  There, with Katie's active aid, we did all that was possible to restore her to consciousness.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain, who had just returned on board, hearing the loud cry, came quickly to the cabin.  I took him aside, and explained matters as far as I thought necessary.  He appeared deeply affected, and expressed the greatest sympathy.  After awhile our efforts to restore Ellen were successful, and she now sat up on the sofa, and, looking all around her, seemed unable to ascertain where she was; then, pressing her hand on her forehead and bending her eyes downward for a moment, as if in an effort to collect her thoughts, she suddenly started erect and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Henry!  Katie! and the Captain! all here!  Where is the matter?  And where is Frank?  Oh, Henry, tell me, tell me truly, what all this means?  Have I lost my senses, or did that horrid woman really come here and tell me a detestable tale that is true?"  As she spoke, a shudder seemed to pass through her frame.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, dear cousin Ellen, be calm; be yourself.  You know you always told me I was your brother, and <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: knows I loved you as dearly as ever brother loved a sister.  Things are not as bad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>254</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>While I spoke, Ellen's eyes were fixed on me.  At the word penitent, she drew herself up to her proudest bearing.  Rising to her feet, her eyes flashed almost flaming light, and, advancing a step or two, with her little hand clenched menacingly, she broke in:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Penitent!  Who dares to talk of my husband being <HI REND="italics">penitent Penitent</HI>
181.sgm:?" she repeated, with a loud laugh of scorn that it was terrible to hear.  "Penitent for what?  My husband, proud of his religion, proud of his honor, proud of the honor of his wife, mother and father, and of that of his whole race, now sinks to humility and <HI REND="italics">penitence</HI>
181.sgm: by a crime against the holy vow, made on bended knees before an altar he held sacred.  No! no!  It is impossible!  I tell you, Henry Philips, you are mistaken.  I know you are mistaken.  This <HI REND="italics">penitent</HI>
181.sgm: man you speak of is not <HI REND="italics">my husband</HI>
181.sgm:; the Frank Harvey that I loved as woman never loved before, and in whose fidelity and truth I trusted with that faith and confidence that tolerates no apprehension or doubting.  I want no <HI REND="italics">penitent</HI>
181.sgm: husband.  I came here to meet the husband that, himself, from my childhood up, taught me to abhor falsehood and infidelity, as belonging solely to the infernal regions, and to love truth, purity and fidelity as heaven's choicest gifts and graces, and without which no man could be noble, honorable or great.  Oh, tell me," she continued, clasping her temples with her hands, "where that husband is?  <HI REND="italics">My</HI>
181.sgm:<P>It was impossible to hear her and witness her great suffering and control one's feelings, try ever so much.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie sobbed as if her heart would break, and I did not act much better myself.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain sought to hide what he could not conceal, and left the cabin.  I had a duty to perform, so I struggled for composure.  It was to do my best both for Ellen and for Frank that the circumstances would permit; so, summoning all my resolution, I took my seat on the sofa, and, taking Ellen's hand gently, I said:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Darling Nellie, listen to me, your own loved brother."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Before I could proceed she started erect in her seat and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Who called me `darling Nellie'?  Why! that is the name <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Then changing her manner to a painful calmness, she turned towards me, and, with an unnatural air of self-possession, continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Cousin Henry, what do you want me to do?  I will hear you through, although my mind is made up."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Shocked as I was at the evidently unsettled state of her mind, I saw the great necessity of her leaving the steamer at once.  I did not again present Frank's note, but told her of the rooms at the Union Hotel, where she would be wholly undisturbed, and alone with Katie, and used every argument in my power to induce her to go at once, and take possession of them.  It was all of no avail.  She declared her intention of remaining on board until the return steamer for Panama should be ready to receive passengers.  Then she would take her passage and return to Philadelphia.  Finding it impossible to move her resolution, I left her for the night with Katie, and returned to Frank.  He insisted on my repeating every word she uttered, and for a description of the whole scene, although its relation cost him the bitterest agony, and sometimes almost cries of anguish.  After he became more calm, I told him that Ellen had demanded the necessary funds to make all her arrangements for a return voyage.  We then settled that I should again see her in the morning, and agree to her return, provided, she at once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Never!  You do not half know her, Henry, if you have any such idea.  However, hopeless as I know and feel the effort will be, yet I am compelled by feelings I cannot, even if I would, control to make this effort, and leave nothing undone to bring to it success.  Oh, my God!" he continued, "what will become of me if she leaves without seeing or forgiving me.  I am, as she says, humbled to the dust, and, I trust in God, truly penitent, also.  Henry," he went on in a low, subdued voice, "I want you to do all you can for me, for I believe even life hangs on the result of your efforts."</P>
181.sgm:<P>By half-past 8 in the morning I was again with poor Ellen.  I found her in that same cold, calm, unnatural mood in which I had left her the night previous.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie, who met me on the deck, told me she had neither wept nor slept all night, nor had she tasted food, nor had she alluded, she said, to her troubles in any way, except to speak once or twice of her immediate return to Philadelphia as a settled thing.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh!" said Katie, "if she would only cry and talk of her troubles; but not a tear has she shed since you came back last night without Mr. Harvey.  Something must be done to bring her back, for I know she cannot go on in this way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>I was much of Katie's opinion, and felt greatly alarmed at this state of Ellen's mind.  I had hardly taken my seat by her when she demanded what I came for, and if I had brought the funds she asked for with me.  She sat near the table, with one arm resting on it, with which she supported her head, while her large eyes were fixed on my face with a half-vacant gaze.  I evaded her question, and went on to talk of such things as I thought might touch her feelings.  Finding that nothing I had said moved her in the least, I went on to try the effect of talking directly of Frank.  I told her of the deception used by the doctor who attended him in his sickness, in the matter of the nurse, while Frank was unable to act for himself, and began a statement of the case, as I understood it.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>While I spoke I could not see the least change in her expression of countenance, but once I thought her lip slightly curled, as if in contempt, when I was speaking of the artfulness of the nurse; but, if this was so, it passed off in a moment.  I then went on to conclude by saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Frank says if you cannot bring yourself to see him, all he asks is that you will go with me to the Union, and, when there, read over his written statement of all that has passed, and then if, at the end of the twelve days that are to intervene between this and the departure of the next steamer, you still wish to return, he will provide you with a good escort, a good female attendant, and, of course, all the funds you want or ask for.  Do not refuse him, Ellen, I implore you, because Frank feels that if this separation does take place it will be for all this life, and he demands, as a right, that you hear his statement before you take the final step; and if you adopt this course, he is sure that, if you cannot overlook the past and stay, you will at least pity and forgive him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>From her countenance I could hardly judge whether she heard or understood a word I had said.  But when I had stopped speaking, without moving her position, she said, in a contemptuous tone, and with a bitter half-smile on her lip:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Go back, Cousin Henry, and tell that person who sent you here that I do not even know who he is.  <HI REND="italics">He</HI>
181.sgm: is not <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
181.sgm: husband, I <HI REND="italics">know</HI>
181.sgm:, for <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
181.sgm: husband never <HI REND="italics">could</HI>
181.sgm: have had an occasion to ask <HI REND="italics">any one</HI>
181.sgm: to forgive or <HI REND="italics">pity</HI>
181.sgm: him; and if that woman Gabit's story of <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As she said this and left the cabin, there was inexpressible sadness and woe in her face.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Sick at heart, I remained for a moment in my seat, at a loss how to manage or what to do.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Katie just then came in, and it occurred to me to have her try what she could do.  I told her the first great object was to get Mrs. Harvey to leave the steamer, and that she must put her wits to work to make her go to the Union Hotel.  She promised to do her best; so I returned to my office, where I found waiting for Frank a friend of his from S-- , a Mr. Leet, to whom he had confided his present troubles.  He was Frank's sincere friend, and sympathized, I have no doubt, sincerely with him in all this matter.  Mr. Leet was rich, and, as the world goes, a very good sort of a man.  Nevertheless; his notions on morality were of that low cast so terribly universal nowadays.  He saw no sense in Frank's ideas on the subject, and much less in Ellen's.  He thought the "game," as he expressed it to me, was all in Frank's own hands.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"When he received that note from his wife," said he, "telling him to come to her if Mrs. Gabit's story was false, and that she would never say another word about it, he should have gone, and, after a week or so, told her the truth, for fear any busy-body would do so.  She could not then back out on any such silly pretence as she is now setting up."</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was as much as I could do to restrain my indignation at hearing my loved cousin's conduct commented on or questioned by a man who could neither appreciate nor comprehend a character like hers.  However, I acted with Mr. Leet as I do with all men whose ideas on morality are squared by the same low standard that I knew his to be--I neither argued nor found fault with him.  I knew, too, that it was not from any disrespect to his friend's wife that he spoke as he did.  I therefore merely said that it would be well not to make such a remark as that to Frank.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no," said he; "it is too late now.  He held the four aces, but had not the courage to play them boldly, and lost his advantage, so that the game is up, and I will not pain my friend Frank by finding any fault with him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then Frank joined us, and I gave the result of my visit to Ellen; and then we began to discuss what had best be done, when I was called by one of my clerks to say that Katie was in my store and wished to speak to me.  We at once admitted her to our council.  She told us that, after I had left the steamer, Ellen had become very much excited, and would listen to nothing from her.  That, after awhile, the Captain coming in, Ellen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>As Katie made this announcement, Frank sprang to his feet, and, confronting her, said, almost fiercely: "Consented to have her stay on board the steamer, and accept her own draft, did you say?  Are you sure you heard this?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie became very pale, but said: "Yes, sir; I think that was what I heard."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Great God!  What does this mean?" said Frank, as he turned from Katie, with increased agitation.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Since Katie's entrance, Leet was standing, smoking a cigar, with his back to the stove, one foot on his chair, his right elbow resting on his knee, while he supported his chin with his forefinger and thumb.  To Frank's impassioned question he slowly said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It explains matters to me, I think, so that I can understand them <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
181.sgm:; which, I confess, I never did before.  The <HI REND="italics">Captain</HI>
181.sgm: wants her to stay, and <HI REND="italics">she</HI>
181.sgm: is willing to stay.  I see, I <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Leet, in his bent-over position, did not see what I saw; that Frank was advancing towards him, with his eyes flashing and every feature of his face rigid and pale with sudden passion.  Leet had hardly uttered the last words, "I see," when a well-directed blow from Frank's right arm felled him to the floor; Frank exclaiming, as he bounded on his fallen friend with the fury of a madman: "Die, villain! die!  You have dared to insinuate a foul slander against an angel of purity, my injured wife."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The noise and Katie's screams brought all my astonished employees to the office; so that Leet was soon rescued from Frank's maddened clutch.  His rescuers took him away, while I detained Frank by force in the office.  I could not find it in my heart to be sorry for what had befallen poor Leet, and if Frank had not been there, I would not have let the language pass; at the same time, I felt well assured that Leet meant no offence.  For some minutes after we were alone again, Frank continued to stride up and down the office.  At length, he asked me for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Frank, however, was not himself.  He was in a wild excitement, and would listen to no arguments on the subject.  When he found he could not move me, he left the office, and soon found a business friend, who took the challenge for him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain was surprised and pained on receiving Frank's hostile note.  He told the bearer to go back to Mr. Harvey, and tell him that he was always ready to defend his honor, and to give honorable satisfaction to all men to whom he had given just cause to demand it; but that, in this case, nothing on earth would induce him to meet Frank Harvey.  "First," said he, "because I have given Mr. Harvey no cause of offence, as I can show by the explanation I will give of what has passed between Mrs. Harvey and myself; and secondly, because, if I meet Mr. Harvey, it might, if that were possible, cast a shade on the unsullied purity of his wife.  For these reasons I positively decline, let the results to me be what they may.  Please say further that I shall at once call on my friend, Mr. Philips, as I acknowledge an explanation is necessary."</P>
181.sgm:<P>After sending this message to Frank, the Captain came directly to my office.  He explained that, upon returning to the steamer soon after I had left, he found Mrs. Harvey in a state of the wildest excitement.  That she had made what, of course, he considered an absurd demand on him.  It was the same Katie had told us of.  He said he acquiesced, without question or argument, in all she said, fearing that, in her excitement, she would do herself some harm if refused or denied anything; that he was on the point of coming to my office himself to tell us of what had passed, when he was unexpectedly detained by business until he got Frank's hostile note.  If Frank and myself had been his brothers, and Ellen his daughter, he could not have shown more generous feeling and deep sympathy for us all than he did.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Soon afterwards, when I made the explanation to Frank, his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As soon as the Captain left my office, I made up my mind to see Katie, and get her to tell Ellen the whole scene with Mr. Leet, which she had witnessed in my office; also, that Frank had challenged the Captain; and to urge her to at once leave the steamer to save further disturbance, and, perhaps, bloodshed, and the scandalous talk of the idle and worthless.</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>ELLEN AND THE REV. FATHER.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie, comprehending my idea perfectly, without loss of time, sought Ellen, and found her in her state-room, seated near her berth, with both her arms thrown out before her on the pillow, and her head resting between them.  Katie commenced:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, dear, dear, Mrs. Harvey, we must leave this steamer at once.  Such terrible things as have happened to-day, all because we remain here."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ellen did not speak or change her position, but, turning her head, looked at Katie, as a person does who is half awake, and trying to collect their thoughts so as to enable them to comprehend what is said.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie continued, and told all that had happened, and concluded by saying: "And Mr. Harvey has challenged the Captain to fight him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Who to fight?" exclaimed Ellen, starting from her reclining position, and from half lethargy to wild life.  "Who did you say was to fight?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie repeated what she had told of the challenge.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Frank to fight!  No! no! he <HI REND="italics">shall</HI>
181.sgm: not fight.  It is some plan to murder him.  I say he <HI REND="italics">shall not</HI>
181.sgm: fight!  Go, Katie, fly, fly to Cousin Henry, and tell him to prevent this terrible fight, and I will do anything he asks of me, <HI REND="italics">but</HI>
181.sgm: to meet him.  Oh, God!  I mean my husband; I cannot meet him.  Henry must not ask me that.  But go and say that <HI REND="italics">anything</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Then, while she walked the state-room floor with excited, feverish steps, she exclaimed, aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, father dear, I was your pet and darling!  Oh, mother, sweet mother, I was your pride and comfort!  You left me long, long ago, a little child, to loving friends, and, you thought, to happiness; but, oh! how much better for me had I been taken with you.  I would now be lying in a quiet little grave, between <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Then, turning to Katie, she continued: "Fly, Katie, fly, or my senses will leave me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie needed no urging to come with speed to me, nor I to return with her to poor Ellen.  I put her mind to rest with regard to the duel, and she made no further objections to go with me to her rooms in the Union.  I promised to find the escort, and have all in readiness for her return home, as she desired.  I then communicated all that had taken place to Frank.  The result was a great consolation and relief to him.  The next day, when I called at the Union, I found, from Katie's report, that Ellen remained in the same unnatural, listless state.  She made no complaints; she took no notice of anything around her.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When asleep, she seemed half awake; when awake she appeared half asleep.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But, worst of all," said Katie, "she will not now say any prayers, although all her life she has been so religious and devout.  This morning I knelt near her to see if she would join me, and when I saw she took no notice of me as she walked by me, I began to cry; I could not help it; and then she stopped and took her handkerchief, and, stooping over me, wiped away my tears, and whispered to me in, oh, such a sad, lonesome voice: `Poor Katie! you must not cry; there is nothing left in this world worth shedding tears for.'  Then she resumed her constant walk up and down the room.  Oh! Mr. Philips, it is terrible to see her so.  If she would only cry, the tears would bring her to herself.  I have been," Katie continued, "to the Catholic Church in Vallejo street this morning, where I went to confession and communion, and, after mass, I thought it no harm to talk with the Priest, Father L-- , as all the Catholics here say he is a perfect saint, about Mrs. Harvey; but when I told him that she had a husband and a cousin here, he said they were the proper persons to speak to him of private family matters, and that if they saw fit to do so, he would do all he could for them, but otherwise he could not interfere.  So I thought I would tell you what he said."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>I saw Katie's idea, and thought it a good one, so I went in search of Frank.  When I met him he told me he had just returned from the Vallejo street church, where he had had a long talk with the good Priest, Father L-- , and that he had promised to be at my office in an hour, with a good old father who had just arrived from Oregon, and who was, he said, a man of fine judgment and great prudence.  At the appointed time Father L-- put in an appearance, accompanied by his friend from Oregon, Father D--.  This Father D-- was a tall, fine-looking man, well advanced in years.  He was evidently a man of the highest education and refinement.  His countenance beamed with benevolence, and he was affable and courteous in manners.  His conversation was fascinating, and while it had something of the gentleness of a woman in it, yet it had all the strength, clearness and vigor of expression we claim as characteristic of our own sex.  He was a Belgian by birth, and of a high and wealthy family in that country, and had served, when a youth, in an honorable capacity, near the person of the first Napoleon.  He had of late been an associate of the famous Indian missionary, Father DeSmet, in the mountain districts of Oregon, and was, at this time, suffering from a wound he received there.  He was on his way to join Father Nobli, at Santa Clara College, which has since become such a splendid educational institution.  After a short acquaintance, we both felt that he was one on whose judgment we could rely without fear or question, and that if any one could move poor Ellen it would be this good father.  He did not give Frank much hope of any immediate reunion.  He said he thought he comprehended her character from all we had told him, and if he did, nothing but time and a deep, religious humility of feeling could ever overcome the shock her unbounded faith in her husband's honor and truth, and her sentiments of purity and delicacy of thought, had received.  That all things were possible to <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:, and that Frank must not despair, but look forward with hope, but with resignation, to the result of our efforts.  It was then agreed that Father D-- and I should call to see Ellen that afternoon at four o'clock, and that all we should ask of her was to read a letter from Frank, giving a truthful statement of his life in California, and which should make no demand for a reunion, or even an interview, between her and Frank.  This being settled, I then prepared Katie for the visit, and she, as far as she could, prepared <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Henry, have you found the escort?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>I told her not, but would in ample time.  Then the Father made efforts to draw her into conversation on indifferent subjects, but she seemed to avoid it; at the same time, however, she appeared to grow somewhat excited.  At last, she addressed the Father directly herself, and said, with a smile and a tone in which there was evidently half contempt:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I suppose you are the pastor of this place, brought here by my good cousin to influence my conduct and get me to <HI REND="italics">forgive</HI>
181.sgm: my <HI REND="italics">penitent</HI>
181.sgm: husband.  Yes, oh yes; a very good business for the Catholic pastor of San Francisco to come on, to see if he can get the wife to overlook the falsehood and dishonor of the husband, for his crime is not worth speaking of.  I suppose," she continued, in a bitter, sarcastic tone, "it is only the breach of his marriage vows, made in the church, before the altar dedicated to the God he pretended to worship; <HI REND="italics">that is all</HI>
181.sgm:; and it was not his fault, of course, if that wife did not know that those vows, and all the religious ceremonies attending them, were but a mocking show, intended to deceive the foolishly confiding and ignorant.  No; of course it is not his fault if that foolish wife believed in <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:, believed in those <HI REND="italics">vows</HI>
181.sgm: as a truth, believed in all that that husband told her, with a faith that never thought or <HI REND="italics">dreamed</HI>
181.sgm: of <HI REND="italics">a doubt</HI>
181.sgm:<P>She now seemed to give way completely to her heretofore half-suppressed excitement, and, rising from her seat, advanced a step or two towards the priest, while she continued, with the same sarcastic tone of voice and bitter smile: "You wish to tell me what I know now--that the religion you have all your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:life been teaching is a <HI REND="italics">lie</HI>
181.sgm:.  You want to say, also, that the idea that man is superior to the beasts of the field, is all nonsense; that, as I have made that discovery, I may as well conform myself to this true state of things, and do as others do, and not be a foolish, obstinate woman.  There; I have made your argument; it is short, but it <HI REND="italics">means</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As she ceased speaking, she threw herself back impatiently into her seat, and looked apparently for a reply.  During all the time she had been addressing him, the Father continued to regard her with a look of mingled fear, sorrow and admiration; and, when she had ceased to speak, he remained silent, and I saw that a tear stole down his cheek.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ellen waited a moment, and then said: "You came to talk with me, I know, and now you have nothing to say."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear lady," said the Father, "you have misconstrued my visit altogether.  Neither am I the pastor of San Francisco.  No; for the last thirty years of my life I have been on a mission with the red children of the mountains and the wilderness, and have only now left them through necessity of health, and in obedience to the call of my superior.  I have nothing to give, nor favor to ask from living man.  The morning of my life dawned as fair and bright as your own, my dear lady, could possibly have been.  My fortune was ample.  The greatest Captain and monarch on the earth, of his time, was my friend; I had a loving father, and a dotingly fond mother, sisters and brothers, whose love was as pure and sincere as love on earth could be, and whose society was exquisitely delightful to me.  But <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: was pleased to convince me that this world was not my true home, and to give me the grace to yield up my earthly home, friends, fortune, ambition, and all that appeared to me at first so bright and dazzling in this life, that I might take up the cross and find <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm:, and hundreds of times <HI REND="italics">more</HI>
181.sgm: than all, again, in that country where sin, disappointment and sorrow are unknown; and, dear lady, I tell you truly, that I would not now, as my weary journey draws to a close here, far away from all the friends I ever knew or loved in my childhood and boyhood, retrace the step I took, to be made the monarch of the earth, in the flush of my manhood.  No, dear lady; I would not yield up the recollection of one year's labor with my red children of the Rocky Mountains for all the earth could bestow.  Excuse me for saying so much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>In a moment, Ellen's whole manner changed.  Her eyes and all her face lit up, as it were, with a light and glow.  She clasped her hands in the attitude of supplication, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I did not mean to be unkind.  Stay, oh, stay!  A wild fancy, a dream it may be, comes to my mind."  Laying her hand on the priest's arm, and pressing it so as to turn him directly towards her, and, looking earnestly in his face, she continued: "Oh! no; I cannot be mistaken.  Tell me, oh! tell me, if, years and years ago, you were not in my native town of Lancaster, in Pennsylvania, to collect aid for your red men; and, if so, have you no recollection, while there, of a dark and stormy night, in which you were called to administer the last sacraments to a lady dying of cholera, whose husband had died the day previous?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>In astonishment, the priest replied:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Perfectly; and the brave little girl, who, kneeling, held the hand of her dying parent, and joined in all the prayers for the departing soul.  Where is she?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye; and do you recollect that the dying mother placed your hand on that little girl's head, and asked you to add your blessings to hers, and to pray with her that the child might go through the world safely and reach Heaven in the end, and that you knelt and said <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"I do, perfectly; and that was the mother's exact prayer; I recollect all now; she asked NOTHING but safety for her child in this world; <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm: for the <HI REND="italics">next</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Now," said Ellen, with a sort of triumphant look, "you, who had resigned your youth, fortune and all you held dear, and hid away your talents and education, without a murmur, among the wild savages, seeking nothing but <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:, prayed with fervent sincerity to <HI REND="italics">that God</HI>
181.sgm: for an orphan child, and to-day every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:possibility of happiness in this world has vanished from her, and is gone forever.  The next world is revealed to her a <HI REND="italics">blank</HI>
181.sgm:, and then say, if you can, that your prayers and my angel mother's dying supplications were heard, <HI REND="italics">for I am that child</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Here she paused for a moment, while she struggled with some deep emotion.  When she continued, her excitement rose nearly to frenzy, and there was something in the tone of her sweet voice, in the wild expression of her face and in her extreme commanding personal beauty, as she stood confronting the old missionary, with her arms across her breast, that gave her almost a supernatural appearance, and filled me with awe.  I turned to the old man with hope, yet with fear that it was beyond his or human power to allay such fearfully aroused feelings.  But one look on him reassured me, for there was a calm light in his countenance and a confidence in his noble bearing, as he summoned all the energies of his soul to meet the evil spirit that seemed to fight for the possession of the beautiful being before him; for, as I looked on, I could not help feeling that the contest was between good and evil, and that the old man relied not on his own strength or ability, but on some higher power, that he knew or felt could not fail him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, good Father," she exclaimed, "as the red men called you, and as we all called you, explain, if you can, why that child you prayed for should be led through a childhood and girlhood of unalloyed happiness, oh, so happy, that Heaven itself seemed scarce worth working for, for she seemed to be in it here on earth; oh, so happy in being united with a partner whose purity, truth and honor were so acknowledged by all, so believed in by the fond, happy wife that she felt to ask <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:, as a doubting wife might do, to guard and keep him all that he was, would be a treason to the confidence she of right owed him; explain, if you can, I say, why all this joy should be given to that child you prayed for, apparently with no other object than when in the zenith of this great bliss to dash her to the earth, dragged down by him who, as boy or man, never harbored a dishonest thought, or uttered a word or committed an act that would tarnish the honor of a boy at sport, or of a man among men; no, no; you cannot explain all this, but I can do so.  It is this: That God you served did not hear you, and, sad as the discovery will be to you, I will tell you that you have spent all your life's labors in pursuit of a <HI REND="italics">phantom</HI>
181.sgm:, and this truth you may as well know, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:even if the discovery is made in the evening of your life.  Know then," she continued, with uplifted hand, "that there is <HI REND="italics">no sin, no crime, no dishonor, no falsehood in this world; nor virtue, nor honor, nor goodness, nor truth, nor the hereafter they talk about.  There is no Hell, no Heaven</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Hold, hold, my child," exclaimed the old man, with a commanding solemnity in his voice, while he raised his hands toward Heaven above her head.  "Do not, I conjure you in the Savior's name, utter the terrible blasphemy."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Stopping the fearful sentence as the word " <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Rev. Father, I owe you much; much more than I can thank you for.  Light has come when my mind was the darkest.  And, as I look back, I see, clearly, how intolerable my pride must have been to the majesty of <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:.  My dying mother's prayer, in which you joined, <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
181.sgm: heard, and you have been sent to save me.  Oh, yes! there is a good, a merciful <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
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181.sgm:<P>Then, clasping her hands and looking up, she continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Then, addressing the missionary, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What, Father, will you have me do to make a beginning?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nothing, my child, <HI REND="italics">nothing</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Then he added, hesitatingly:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I would also ask of you, as a great favor, when you can summon the courage to do so, to read this letter, addressed to you by your husband."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ellen started back as if in terror, a tremor shaking her whole frame.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It is nothing, my child," continued the missionary, "but a statement of facts that it is your duty, I think, to read, that you may not think worse of your husband than he deserves.  Charity calls on you for the sacrifice, my child."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And I must not shrink from the first one of my new life, but may I not wait until I feel able?" said Ellen, in a voice that was almost inarticulate from emotion, while she reached her trembling hand for the letter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Certainly," said the priest.  "Take your own time and be calm.  Farewell, my child; and may <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As the missionary turned to leave, I reached my hand to Ellen.  As she took it she looked in my face, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Poor Henry, you have been weeping for me, too.  Dear brother, but for you, what would have become of me; kiss me, Henry, I feel so much, so much more happy."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Father took his way to Vallejo street, and, as he bid me "good-day," I saw that he had to make a strong effort to suppress his emotion.  I, full of thankfulness at the result of our mission, returned to my office.  There I found Frank, looking pale and worn from intense thought and mental suffering.  I would have avoided telling him more than the result of our visit.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, Henry," said he; "you must not rob me of one word <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Finding, as before, that it was impossible to avoid it, I gave him the full details.  When I mentioned Ellen's discovery, that the missionary was the priest who had attended my aunt, Mrs. Stewart, in her last sickness, Frank exclaimed: "Oh, God!  Thy hand is visible."  This was his only interruption.  He listened to all with that calm, suffering endurance which brave and noble hearts can alone command, until I told him of her parting words, and of her grateful, sisterly kiss.  Then, as if that had touched some new spring hid away in the recesses of his heart, and opened some fountain that it was impossible even for heroism itself to hold back or stem, he threw his arms around my neck, and, resting his head on my bosom, gave way, without control to deep, convulsive grief, like that which comes to an innocent child in real sorrow.  For a moment we were both children again--away, far away in the past--but, soon recovering ourselves, we were once more ready and willing to combat, as men, the realities of life.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie told me, the next day, that after the good Father and myself had left, Ellen called her and told her that she would like to go with her to church in the morning to early service.  She then spent some hours before retiring in religious preparation.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the morning Katie wished to order a carriage, but Ellen would not allow it, as she was anxious for a walk.  So, wrapping warmly, at the dawn of the morning they were both on their way to St. Francis' Church, on Vallejo street.  They reached it on time, and it was yet hardly light.  There were, perhaps, some fifty persons in the church, all kneeling, and apparently wrapped in devotion.  Near the altar there were two priests kneeling, with cloaks wrapped around them.  Simple and plain as the Church of St. Francis then was, there was in this scene, at that dawning hour of the morning, something that brought ot Ellen's sad heart a sweet and soothing consolation; and she seemed to gather strength for her forward march through life, which looked to her, just then, so rugged and difficult to tread.  They recognized the old missionary as one of the priests near the altar, and, at Ellen's wish, Katie stole up to him and requested him to go into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Can it be that I have seen him?" she thought to herself; and then she felt as if Frank had been there and had made an appeal to her for a share of her prayers, and she responded with an overflowing heart.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As they left the church the sun was up.  The morning was beautiful, and everything looked cheerful and alive with that striving and energy that so marked the people of California at that day, and told so plainly of the great future in store for this Bay City.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie's precaution to have a carriage in waiting was not amiss, for Ellen found that she shrank from a walk through the streets at that hour of the morning.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>FRANK'S LETTER TO HIS WIFE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ellen partook of her morning meal, if not with decided appetite, yet with a real desire to acquire the physical strength so necessary to her now.  After breakfast, retiring to her sleeping room, she closed the door and calmly took from her writing desk Frank's letter, or statement, and, after pausing for a moment, as it seemed to summon resolution, she tore it open, and read as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>FRANK'S LETTER.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Oh, Ellen, how shall I address you?  I know I have forfeited the right to love you, and to hold you to my breast as its darling.  Yet while life lasts I cannot cease to do either, no more than I could cease to breathe and yet live.  No; my injured, suffering, angel wife, as inconsistent as my conduct may seem to you, yet the <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: above us knows that I have never faltered for one moment in wholly undivided love for you.  Do not, then, turn away from me when I call you, my loved, my darling wife.  No; in mercy, do not turn away.  I do not come to ask you to restore me to the place I have forfeited, but to implore and beg of you, by the memory of our happy childhood and of the love I bore you, as boy and man, to listen and to hear me, that you may not scorn and despise me as false in heart as well as guilty.  No; my poor, darling Ellen, believe me; I have not sinned because my heart grew cold in its devotion to you, but because in that wild, selfish devotion I forgot the <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: who sent me the priceless treasure that made this world seem almost a paradise to me.  Listen, Ellen, listen while, at your feet, I tell you the horrid tale.  From the very moment I parted from you in Philadelphia one idea seemed to occupy my whole mind; it was to acquire gold enough to enable me to reunite myself to my darling wife.  The crossing of the Isthmus, the wild luxuriance of the scenes there, the sufferings we endured in that burning climate waiting for the steamer to arrive from its passage around the Horn, all passed without a thought.  The companions of my journey were unnoticed by me.  In the end I had only a vague recollection of them all, and not one circumstance could I recall distinctly.  As I stepped on land in San Francisco, the last scene before it seemed to me the parting with you in Philadelphia.  Your last sad, sorrowing look was all I could distinguish as I looked back, and all I could see to strive for in the future, as I looked forward, was a success that would enable me to return to you.  All relgious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:duties were, at first, indifferently performed, then deferred from time to time, and at length almost wholly neglected.  When I knelt in prayer, as of old, it was but a mockery, for the gift and not the Giver occupied all my thoughts.  <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: was worshiped by my lips, while my heart was far away with you.  In S--, where I located myself, there was no Catholic church when first I went there, and when the zeal of a good French priest and a few Irishmen began the erection of one, I paid no attention whatever to it, and no one in S-- supposed me to be a Catholic in faith.  The priest, with the committee, called on me, as they did on almost every one, for a contribution, and I well recollect their surprise when, prompted by a sudden emotion, I handed them a check for five hundred dollars, where they only expected twenty-five or fifty.  They had no idea that in faith I was with them.  So passed on the first year; my whole heart and energies devoted to the acquisition of gold.  I was successful in all my efforts, but "More" and "More" was my cry, as gold fairly streamed in upon me, and the acquisition so charmed and dazzled me that at the end of the year I sought and obtained your consent to remain one year longer.  With renewed exertions, from early morning till late at night, I sought to increase my wealth, and often lay down in my comfortless bed and dreamed of returning home to you with millions and millions, and of seeing you in queenly state, surrounded by magnificence, and dispensing favors to the whole cringing public, who were in humility at your feet; and then I would awake from my dream of pride to redouble my efforts to realize it all, and find my paradise, not above with <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:, but here below with you.  Every effort seemed to prosper, and I said, in my pride: "There is no such word as fail to a man of my abilities; all my ambition seeks for will be mine."  I was proud, too, and self-complacent of my faith and truth to you, and looked with contempt on the unfaithful husbands I met with, worse than the Pharisees.  I thanked not <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: but myself, that I was not like other men.  Such was my career of forgetfulness and pride when, in making extraordinary efforts, on "steamer day," to make a larger shipment of gold than usual, I over-worked myself.  The consequence was a cold, and then a fever, in which I lay for twenty-one days unconscious of all around me.  On regaining my wandering senses, the first thing I perceived was that I was cared for by a young woman, who did all I required with the delicacy and kindness of a sister.  When the Doctor next came he introduced her to me, with high praises, saying I owed her my life.  I at once called Mr. Neil, my bookkeeper, and told him to settle with Miss Marsh in the most liberal manner, intimating that now my clerks' nursing would be sufficient.  She went into tears, and said she could not leave me until I was quite recovered.  The Doctor joined her in saying she must stay; that it would be dangerous to me for her to leave just yet.  The result was I was thrown off my guard, and she remained.  I could not help feeling deeply grateful, and, being totally deceived as to her history and true position and character, I was exposed to a danger from which <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: alone could save me.  I had been totally unmindful of Him, and in that hour of my need He was unmindful of me.  Then my eyes were opened to the woman's true character.  I now felt and knew that all was lost; that every hope of worldly happiness was gone forever, for I was determined that you should know the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Dear Mr. Harvey, you have always been a brother to me, I would even say a father, but that I am so much the older of the two; believe me, then, deeply grateful, and that I am prompted by affection and attachment as well as gratitude in seeking this interview."</P>
181.sgm:<P>I at once interrupted him by saying: "Yes, dear fellow; I know you love me; I know your worth, your honor and your truth; I know, too, what you would talk to me of;" and, grasping him by both shoulders, I drew him close to me and whispered in his ear: "In plain words you want to say to me, that within a week I have become a drunkard and a false husband."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! no, not so bad as that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But yes; that is the way to talk it out; I see you are grieved for me, my old friend, but you must shake that feeling off, and try and keep from the public my humiliation and disgrace."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! Mr. Harvey, do not speak in that terrible way; all is not lost; you can recover yourself now.  I did not know the true character of this woman when Dr. Taylor brought her here, or I would have let you die rather than have consented to give her a foothold in your room; now, I find she is well known in this town, and I was disgusted on hearing yesterday that when she went out and made some purchases of fine dresses, she had the audacity to assume your name in the addresses she gave for the packages to be sent to."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As he told me this, drops of cold perspiration stood on my forehead, and a deadly horror seemed to be creeping through my whole body.  He did not perceive this and went on:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Have you received Mrs. Harvey's three letters, that arrived while you were sick, and that I gave the nurse for you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>My start and look of astonishment satisfied him of the fact that I had never received them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No!" he went on, "why, I asked her yesterday if she had delivered them, and she said she had; but, as I had some doubts of her truth, I thought it better to retain the one that came by the last mail to hand you myself.  Here it is."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As he said this, he handed me the letter and left the office, believing, I suppose, that I would prefer to be alone while I read it.  What a sight for me, just then, was a letter from you.  My trembling, unsteady hand could not hold it and it fell at my feet, with my name and address, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm: past, and that in the future he should have no cause in my conduct for uneasiness or pain.  I then told him that I should, perhaps, close my business in S-- and wished him to balance all my accounts so as to let me see how I stood in all respects.  The poor fellow looked truly happy, and cheerfully promised to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Strange as it may appear, the telling of this lie troubled me, although I was about to commit a crime that could not be recalled or repented of.  As I left the store, as I believed for the last time, I could not refrain from shaking hands with Mr. Neil, when bidding him good evening.  This, and perhaps something in my manner, seemed to strike him, for he held my hand in his for a moment and looked earnestly in my face.  Without appearing to notice his look of almost inquiry, I said, quietly: "On Monday morning I want to show you some corrections you will have to make in our account-current with Howard, Mellus &amp; Co. and with Taffy McCahill &amp; Co., of San Francisco.  Both these houses have received some money on my account, of which I did not advise you."  This had the effect I anticipated.  It carried his thoughts from me to his own little world, my ledger.  I now started out on a quick walk for the lonesome, dark spot in the tule grass where my career was to end.  There was a wild but subdued excitement in my brain, and as I hurried on with unfaltering steps, my eyes seemed to see more than they ever saw before, and my ears to hear more than they ever heard before.  The coming darkness, to my intense gaze, looked terribly fearful, and seemed closing down in anger on my very existence.  To my imagination, my ears plainly discerned the muffled tread of a legion of dark spirits all around me, leading and urging me forward.  The slough was about three miles from my place of business.  I had to keep the main road for about two miles before coming to the cattle path, or trail, that led through the tule grass to the slough.  I had almost reached this point when some one in a buggy came dashing toward me.  I turned to leave the road, but it was too late.  I was hailed with:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Halloo, Harvey!  Wherethe mischief are you bound, or are you lost out here at this hour?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>I stopped, and recognized a Mr. Myers, a business friend, one of my best customers from the interior, and a worthy, honorable man.  I made some confused excuse as to walking for health, etc.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Come, jump in," Myers continued; "I will talk on business as we drive into town."</P>
181.sgm:<P>There was no get off, so into his buggy I went.  I experienced a most painful sensation as I did so.  A few minutes before I had, in thought, bid farewell to all the world and all its affairs.  Now, I was forced, as it were, to return to it, and tell Mr. Myers the price of flour, tobacco, long-handled shovels, cotton drilling, used for damming the streams, and all other merchandise used in the mining districts.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You must load me to-morrow," said he, "even if it is Sunday; for my teams will all be in to-night, and you are no better Christian than I am a Jew, and yet I have been to work all this day--my Sabbath."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Christian!" said I, and the word sent a cold shudder through my frame.  "If you are no better Jew than I am a Christian, you have not much to boast of."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Harvey, this is a sad and wicked world, as they say in the play; and my wife says this California of ours is the most wicked corner of it all; and that if we do not begin soon to act better, the devil will get us all, both Jew and Christian.  But I say," he continued, "God is good, and may look with mercy on our peculiar position.  Anyway, that is the way I argue the point with my good wife, and hope I may be right."</P>
181.sgm:<P>On reaching the town, I left Mr. Myers, telling him that if I was not at the store the next day when he called, Mr. Neil would attend to everything for him just the same as if I was there.  It was now night, and so dark that I could not find my way back to the slough; so, with regret, I had to defer until morning the execution of my unshaken resolution.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I recollected I had a duplicate key of the back door store; so at a later hour I stole in unobserved, and threw myself on a pile of opened blankets which lay on one of the counters--there to watch for the first dawning of the morning that I was determined should light my way to the slough.  Sleep was slow in coming; and for hours I lay in mental agony, turning from side to side, and, strangely, I found myself, almost against my will, reflecting over and over the words of my Jew friend: "God is good, and may look with mercy on our peculiar position."  At length, overpowered and weary from excitement, I fell into a profound sleep.  Now, in my dreams, I was by the slough, in the yet dim light of the coming day.  The dark, deep water looked terribly lonesome.  The morning wind whistled and murmured mournfully through the tall, wild tule grass.  Without flinching, I adjusted the rope, let the casting drop over the bank, and, turning my back to the dismal water, with steady hand shot myself through the brain.  As the ball crashed through my head, I seemed to leap forward and then fall backwards at full length on the ground, my head alone over the bank, while the weight appeared to tighten the rope on my neck, until my staring eyes and bloodstained features and whole body became one hideous, swollen mass.  Then I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"It is Frank Harvey!  It is Frank Harvey!  Take off the rope!  Take off the rope!"  cried a dozen voices at once.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Some one, more forward than the rest, dropped on his knees, with bowie-knife in hand, to sever the rope, when, just then, the whole crowd seemed to open for some new-comer, and fall back in mute astonishment and awe.  Oh, merciful <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:! the agony of that sleeping hour seemed now at its height, and beyond anything I could suffer during any waking moment of my life.  For there I saw you, with terrible distinctness, advancing where the parting throng had cleared the way, accompanied, it appeared to me, by a troop of bright, angelic beings, all robed in garments of dazzling whiteness and purity.  In your dark hair were entwined the same wreath of flowers, the sparkling diamonds you wore on our wedding day; but oh, how fearful to me was the changed expression of your countenance!  On that blessed day, every feature, every look, when turned on me, expressed unbounded calm, confidence and love.  Now every feature wore an expression of anger, scorn and contempt.  As you approached close to my mutilated body, you drew from your finger the plain gold ring I had myself placed there.  Holding it in your hand, you gazed on my body for a moment; then, casting it on my breast, exclaimed: "Oh, yes! it is he!  There, take that ring, which was to be the emblem of a union without end, but which you have now severed for all eternity.  Miserable coward! that could not summon the courage to endure a short life, though in suffering it might be--that would pass like a dream--that we might enjoy together boundless happiness with <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: and His angels.  What you had lost by your infidelity, if repented of, was only at the most a few years of this life's happiness, and was as nothing to what you have forfeited by this great crime of self-murder.  We are now separated for all time and eternity, and scorn is all I can feel for you."  And now, speaking in a voice of authoritative command, you appeared to turn to the crowd, and continued: "Let no Christian burial ground be contaminated by the reception of the remains of this miserable suicide.  Let no Christian hands touch his mutilated body.  No!  Let him rest in the spot that he himself has chosen.  In the dark, foul waters of this stagnant slough.  There," you continued, as with your slender white foot, gifted, it seemed to me, with magic power, you spurned my body; " <HI REND="italics">go! go! Coward! coward</HI>
181.sgm:!  And slowly over the high bank my body seemed to slide, and with a fearful plunge to strike the waters far below.  A piercing cry of agony broke from my lips, and, awakening, I bounded from my blanket bed to the floor, trembling in every limb and drenched with perspiration from head to foot, with your last words, "Coward, coward," yet ringing fearfully in my ears.  I grasped one of the pillars that supported the main ceiling of the building, or I should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>While I sought death, I sought at the same time to fly from your angry words and looks, by leaving the town in an opposite direction to the road that lead to the scene of my vision.  I had no fixed determination, and had gone but a short way when, turning a corner, I found myself in company with some twenty persons, mostly women, hurrying on in the same direction with myself.  At first I could not imagine what this meant, for it was yet far from clear light, and my excited imagination made me for a moment fear that my desperate intention was discovered, and that the whole town was aroused by it.  A few steps further, however, brought us opposite a building into which the crowd turned.  I looked up and there stood the neat little church I had subscribed for, but had never entered, and between me and the bright morning sky stood out, as if appealing to me, the cross surmounting the little steeple.  Just then the tinkle of the little bell, that I knew so well as indicating the commencement of service, caught my ear.  It appeared to me that I stood once more before dear St. Joseph's Church, and that I had come to hear early mass, as hundreds of times I had done in Philadelphia.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Can I, either as a friend or as a priest, be of any service to you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>As I looked up, his countenance struck me as being marked with good judgment as well as with kindness.  In an instant I resolved to throw my whole future conduct upon his guidance.  I made no answer, but, turning towards where the confessional stood, I pointed to it.  He understood me, and walking back to the altar put on his surplice and stole, and then knelt some moments in prayer before entering the confessional.  It required all my resolution to follow him, but, seeing the scriptural sentence inscribed beneath the cross that surmounted the confessional: "Come to me, all you that labor and are heavy laden, and I will refresh you," I seemed to acquire strength and courage, and entered.  Then in humility, that made me feel as though I was but a meek child, I disclosed to the good Father all my transgressions and all my sorrows.</P>
181.sgm:<P>His advice was long and earnest, and closed by requesting me to come again that evening.  As I left the church he threw himself in my way and saluted me in a cheerful voice, as though he had not before seen me that morning, and invited me to take breakfast with him, saying that he would be all alone, as, although there was another priest just then with him, he would not be at breakfast, as he was to say the late mass, and could not break his fast until after service.  I knew he could not allude to anything I had told him in the confessional, except at my directly expressed wish; so I accepted his invitation and after breakfast again restated to him all my troubles, and asked his advice, as a friend, as well as a priest.  He told me that until he saw me in the church that morning, he had no idea I was a Catholic.  When he spoke cheerfully of my future, I told him I had no hope that you would ever consent to our reunion.  He said it might be so, but that it was my duty to send for you at once, and let you make your own choice when you should know all.  The result was that under the good Father's advice, I did not return to the store, but stayed privately with him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:all that Sunday and the next day until the boat was leaving for San Francisco, when I slipped off unnoticed.  On arriving in the city, I disclosed everything to Henry, and requested him to repair to S. and have the woman Marsh discharged from my premises.  I wrote confidentially to Mr. Neil to ask his aid for Henry.  You know the rest.  I wrote for you, but I let dark forebodings cast a shadow over the spirit of my letter, to partly, if possible, school you for the horrid tale that awaited you here.  Whatever may have been the motives of the woman Gabit, she rather aided than did me any harm by her visit to you, for it saved me from imposing on some friend the painful task of being the bearer, to you, of news that was to wither and blight all your bright hopes of coming joy and worldly happiness.  Now, I have told you <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm:, Ellen, just as it is known to the <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: above us, not a circumstance that would add to my guilt have I knowingly left out.  It was your right to know <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm:, and when you have read these pages, be satisfied that there is not a secret of my life, to this hour of my existence, that is not shared by you.  I am now at your feet; do with me as you please.  All I directly ask for is that you will tell me that you want me to love you just as I do love you, and as I cannot help loving you to the end of my life.  I want you to tell me that you wish me to live for <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm:<P>FRANK HARVEY.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE WIFE'S LETTER TO HER HUSBAND.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Sometimes, while reading Frank's letter, Ellen was forced to lay it down and give way to bursts of uncontrollable grief; but each time, with heroic efforts, she resumed her task, until, at length, as the day was far spent, she reached its closing words of prayer for her.  I called to see her that evening, but she had told Katie to ask me to excuse her; so I did not see her till the next afternoon, when she handed me a letter for Frank.  As she did so, she was seized with a violent fit of hysterical grief, and it was all that Katie and I could do to calm her.  Twice she took the letter back from me, and, laying it on the table before her, wept and mourned over it, and kissed with passionate kisses the address, with all that sort of wild grief with which the living part with some loved form at the edge of the grave.  At length, summoning all her resolution, she handed me the letter, and with hurried steps disappeared from the room.  This closed the last of those terribly sad scenes I went through with poor Ellen at the Union Hotel.  She occupied apartments there, in all, but thirteen days; yet, as I look back now, it seems to me it must have been at least a year, for no year of my life left the impression the events that transpired there in that short period left on me.  That spot, the corner of Merchant and Kearny streets, is connected in my mind with a sort of mysterious, sad, lonesome feeling, that I can never shake off.  It is so inseparably connected with the sorrows and sufferings of poor Ellen and Frank, both of whom I devotedly loved.  Though happy, in my own family, as man can be, and in all my surroundings, yet their fate has cast a shadow over my path, seen by myself only, it may be, that no sunlight ever wholly dispels.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Union Hotel, built by Middleton, Selover &amp; Joyce, at a cost of a quarter of a million of dollars, then in all its elegance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Henry, what do you think?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Think, dear Jennie," said I.  "Of course, I do not <HI REND="italics">think</HI>
181.sgm: anything about it.  I <HI REND="italics">know</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"But," urged Jennie, "what became of them?  They were not in Merchant street when we looked down it as we passed."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear Jennie, do not allow yourself to be superstitious," I continued.  "Recollect, in the first place, that Merchant street is dark, even on a bright night like this, and then, you know, there are doors to every building on both sides, one of which these persons must have entered before we reached the street."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Jennie, "of course, it must be as you say, but I am not half over the fright yet.  You and I were just then so completely lost in our own happy thoughts and conversation, that my first feeling was that our childhood's loved companions appeared to us as a reproach for our selfish, entire forgetfulness of them, when new joys came to crowd our path, as on the occasion of this marriage of our darling child."</P>
181.sgm:<P>All that night our dreams were of Ellen and Frank, but the cheerful light of the next morning dispelled the sad impressions that that walk home had left with us both in spite of all our efforts to cast them off.</P>
181.sgm:<P>But, to return from this digression to my story.  As I took that letter to Frank from Ellen, I fully understood that, in parting with it, Ellen felt as though she was parting with Frank.  The next day Frank gave me the letter to read.  It was as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>My own darling, loved husband: My task is done; every sentence, every word of the terrible story of your California life is now before me, as vivid and living in my thoughts and memory as though each separate word that told the horrid tale had been seared on my brain and vision with fire that was never to go out or darken.  I read it but once, but, oh, my darling Frank! how fearfully perfect I have it all by heart.  Wherever I am, whatever I am doing, over and over I trace every circumstance you have related.  Sometimes it appears to me I am standing on the steamer deck that brought you to California, and see you wrapped in thoughts of me, and me <HI REND="italics">alone</HI>
181.sgm:, and I tremble, for I feel as though I was then displacing <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: from His just place in your thoughts.  My darling husband, we are terribly punished for our forgetfulness of our entire dependence on Him.  I am far the worse of the two, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:for it was my place, my duty, to have reminded you of dangers that can alone be escaped from by reliance on <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:.  No, Frank, in my pride and folly I exalted you in my thoughts above every man on earth.  I believed other men could be weak in temptation and fall into sin, but it never once crossed my imagination that you could.  Your long sickness in S--, in the hands of that unfortunate creature who saved your life, your agony at the result of her presence in your house, your despair and terrible purpose, that horrid, horrid vision that was sent by a merciful <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: to save you, will all haunt me while life is left to me; yes, and will be a burden for me to lay down only at the edge of the grave.  Time and <HI REND="italics">God's</HI>
181.sgm: grace may enable me to support it well and cheerfully, but it will never pass away nor grow lighter.  My darling, loved husband, what now shall be our course?  You are forgiven within my heart of hearts; yes, without the least reservation, my darling Frank, for whatever fault or sin there is in the past is mine as well as your's to repent of, and will only be remembered when I pray to <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: to forgive us both our pride, and grant us the grace to accept His chastisement without a murmur.  It is no small happiness that our hearts are <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
181.sgm:, as of old, and will beat together in sorrow, and in sunshine, too, if permitted to fall on our future way of life.  But, Frank, my suffering darling, how is it, that when I think of now joining you, I see a gulf at my feet that nothing seems to bridge over; awake or asleep, I see the gulf there, and find it utterly impossible to bring myself to attempt its passage.  In my struggles to overcome myself, my reason itself grows dim.  I feel that to do so would violate some hidden sentiment dear and sacred to us both.  Some indescribable feeling, that if I were to disregard, you could not, it appears to me, respect and love me, just as you used to do.  No, my darling, I find we cannot regain what we have lost by rudely attempting to crush out what our education fostered and entwined around our love for each other, and gave it such an exquisite charm.  I feel that we can love each other best by remaining apart, for awhile at least, and in this I want your free consent, for, in all things, I am again your wife to command.  <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: can bridge the gulf our forgetfulness of the necessity of His care opened between us.  Let us look forward then with hope, even for this world.  You ask me to say that I want you to love me just the same as ever.  My darling husband, your love to me is life itself.  Yes, Frank, love me, and call me my pet name, and it will, to me, have its old endearing sound.  You ask me to tell you to live for me.  Yes, my darling, live for me, for on you I will depend for all my wants.  No dress nor ornament shall I ever wear but those that come from your hands.  Send me back to your darling mother's home, and bid me stay until you return from California, which do not defer longer than stern duty to others demands.  But, oh, Frank, if sickness should again overtake you, send for me, send for me without a moment's hesitation; I will fly to you, and then that horrid gulf will be closed, never to open more.  And if sickness comes to me, Frank, fly to me, fly to me, and you shall find no gulf between us.  Frank, my darling, how can I say the parting words?  My brain is weary, and scarce fit to guide me to them.  May <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:, in His goodness, bless and keep you safe, is the prayer of your darling wife.<HSEP> NELLIE.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>SUSAN MARSH'S SUBSEQUENT HISTORY--CONCLUSION.</P>
181.sgm:<P>To complete this little history, I have a few more events of interest to relate, in addition to what Henry has told us.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Katie, Ellen's faithful attendant, was soon married to Peter, the engineer, and made him a true and loving helpmate.  Peter, in a very little time, obtained the partnership his ambition sought, and is now one of our first citizens in wealth, as well as in social position.  Katie was but a bright type of that class of Irish working girls that pushed their way to California with the first immigration.  Their industrious habits, and unquestioned morality and virtue, caused them to be sought for as wives by our pioneer farmers and mechanics; and they are now to be found, all over the State, in happy homes, surrounded by good and virtuous children; an honor to the community in which they live, and the pride of the race from which they sprang.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At the time Henry Philips went to S--to dismiss Susan Marsh from Frank Harvey's premises, he was filled with the bitterest and most indignant feelings towards her, and intended to be outspoken and summary in his dealings with her.  He took a check for one thousand dollars with him, which Frank told him to give her.  He found her seated in the rocking-chair in the little room she had occupied, next to Frank's.  "Woman," said he, "I come to dismiss you from this place."  She started from her seat, and, regarding him with a cold, desolate, hopeless look, shrank away from him like a withered thing.  Henry had not the heart to say another angry word; so, changing the tone of his voice, he continued, holding out the check towards her: "Here is a thousand dollars Mr. Harvey sent you."  She did not reach for it; so, after a pause, and in a voice that was almost kind, he said: "Yes; take it.  It is lawfully yours, and if you use it rightly it may help you to turn over a new leaf, and to find a returning road from the terrible life you have been leading."  A glance of the faintest hope seemed to struggle for expression in the gloom <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:of her face.  She reached for the check with a trembling hand.  Henry hastily left the room, and, as he hurried down the stairs, he found himself muttering a prayer for the unfortunate girl.  Susan Marsh did make an effort to turn over a new leaf, and the big charity to be found in California, and in California <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
181.sgm:, gave her the chance.  By an accident, the very next day, she met with a Mr. and Mrs. Burk, a worthy couple, who were about to open a restaurant in the neighborhood, where now stands the city of Marysville.  To Mrs. Burk she fully explained her history, and her resolution to change her life.  Without hesitation, the Burks determined to help her; so they hired her to assist them, as cook, at the highest wages then going.  In this new position she was entirely unknown.  She worked hard, and continued faithful to her resolution and to her employers.  After a year thus well spent, she received an offer of marriage from a rough, honest pioneer cattle-man, who often refreshed himself at Mr. Burk's restaurant when his business caused him to visit Marysville.  Susan rejected the offer over and over, but her suitor would not take " <HI REND="italics">No</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"You say she has turned over a new leaf for a fact and truth?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I believe it, <HI REND="italics">truly</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, then," continued the stock-man, "I am not exactly a saint myself, and I will not go back on her.  My home shall be her home, and <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>And so it was that Susan Marsh became an honest man's wife, and that man had never cause to regret his generosity.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Frank read Ellen's letter he was not cast down, for he was a better judge of Ellen's feelings than any one, and had harbored no hope of an immediate reunion.  Her full and entire forgiveness, and her expressions of unchanged love gave him the greatest consolation, and made him feel more like himself than he had been for months.  The evident struggle, too, she was making to pass the "gulf" she spoke of, filled him with hope for the future, and made life once more dear to him.  He wrote a warm, generous letter to her, acquiescing in all her plans for the future, and saying everything that he thought would make her feel happy.  One more sorrowful day was in store for him, however, that wilted him almost to the ground.  It was the day the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"If she herself opens the subject," said the Father, "I would advise that you and your good lady say whatever seems well to your judgment at the time, but otherwise leave all to time.  For <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As the day for Ellen's leaving approached, Frank sent her a powerful glass, with the request that as the steamer went through the Golden Gate, she should look to the summit of Telegraph Hill, for he would be there, waving his handkerchief.  She took the glass with eagerness, and did look, and did see him.  It was the only sight she had of him in California.  I will not describe the scene which followed that sight, as related to me by the clergyman's wife in after years.  How she fainted away, the glass dropping from her hand overboard, and the sad hours and days that followed; for it would only give useless pain.  Ellen arrived home in safety, and was received by Frank's mother and Uncle John Grant as a loved child only could be received.  Under their fostering care she became calm, cheerful and almost happy.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After Ellen's departure, Frank at once returned to S-- to wind up his business.  He was cheerful and always composed, exact and clear in all his business transactions; but a close observer would see that a great change had come over him.  His <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Ellen was in Philadelphia on a visit to her uncle at the time, so that when Frank reached his mother's house Ellen was not there to meet him.  As his mother threw her arms around his wasted form, she could not restrain her sobs and weeping.  Uncle John Grant, too, gave way to bitter grief.  "Oh, mother, my own loved, darling mother, and dear Uncle John, do not weep so, I beseech you; for if the worst comes to the worst, you know I am here with you all, and my darling Ellen will be here, too, and our separation will, after all, be only for a day, and then we shall all meet to part no more; so do not weep, my darling mother."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The next day Ellen arrived.  Mrs. Harvey and Uncle John ran to meet her as she alighted from the carriage.  A hurried kiss they gave her, but not a word could they or Ellen utter.  There were many friends in the parlor and hall, who had come to make inquiries for Frank.  As Ellen passed through them, all arose from an involuntary impulse; but not a word was spoken as she hurried on towards Frank's room.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a moment more Ellen and Frank were clasped in each other's arms.  Yes; the "gulf" Ellen had seen at her feet in San Francisco was gone forever.  Yet one short month was all of this life that was left to them to enjoy together on earth; for at the end of that time they were called on to part--and with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Ellen continued to reside with Frank's mother until her death, and they were a loving and devoted mother and daughter to each other.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then came <HI REND="italics">Death</HI>
181.sgm:<P>In fulfillment of a long settled determination, she resigned all her wealth.  First, she gave liberally to relatives who needed a helping hand, and all the rest she assigned to charitable institutions.  She then bade farewell to the world.  Resigning her name, and taking a new one in religion, she became a Sister of Charity.  She was one of the most active and useful members of the sisterhood, and always seemed cheerful and happy.  After years, she was sent on the mission to New Orleans.  It was just before the rebellion broke out, and before its close her task was done, and her crown won, for she died from an all night's exposure on the battle-field succoring the wounded.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When I went East, eight years ago, impelled by an irresistible feeling, I turned out of my way to visit the grave of Frank Harvey.  The monument was of the finest marble, chaste and beautiful in plan and construction.  On one side, in a niche cut in the monument, was inserted a cross fashioned with exquisite taste, from California gold quartz, and sparkling with the precious metal.  As I leaned on the massive iron railing surrounding the monument, memory carried me back to the days when Frank Harvey and all of us first heard of gold in California, and I could not help exclaiming: "Oh, California, California! if every grave into which the discovery of the long-hidden treasure has sunk a weary, broken heart, was decked as this grave is, there is scarce one graveyard from the St. Lawrence to the Rio Grande, that would not, in some part of it, flaunt thy glittering GOLD!"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>ADA ALLEN;</P>
181.sgm:<P>OR,</P>
181.sgm:<P>THE HUSBAND'S SURPRISE.</P>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>ARRIVAL IN SAN FRANCISCO--CAPTAIN CASSERLY.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the month of March, 1850, soon after the first wharf accommodation was provided in the harbor of San Francisco, the mail steamer arrived from Panama, bringing, as one of her thousand passengers, the heroine of the little history which I am about to relate.  The steamer's gun was fired as she entered the harbor, and was heard all over the city.  Hundreds, as was always the case on this signal, rushed towards the wharf.  It was after dark when the steamer came alongside, and then was enacted one of those scenes never to be forgotten by a "'49er," and of which a description is impossible.  Husbands dashed wildly around looking for their expected wives; brothers to find an expected sister, who had summoned courage to face California life; friends looking for friends; sons for fathers; brother for brother.  It seemed a general scramble, made worse by hotel and boarding-house runners seeking for guests.  You hear joyous exclamations and laughter on all sides, and sobbing and weeping too, but, as a whole, every one looks wild with joy and excitement.  Now and then you observe a sad, anxious looking face.  It is some young fellow, perhaps, who, having just graduated at college, has ventured to California to seek his fortune, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:with scarce a dollar in his pocket.  He has left for the first time fond parents, brothers and sisters, now so far away.  His young heart quails within him as he realizes that the battle-ground of life is <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
181.sgm: before him, and that the struggle, in which he is to be an actor and upon which <HI REND="italics">his all</HI>
181.sgm: depends, has, in fact, begun this very night.  But now, you can see, as you watch him, that he seems to shut his teeth together, and you fancy, from his resolute look, that he says to himself: "I am an American, and there is no such word as <HI REND="italics">fail</HI>
181.sgm: for me."  Or, it may be, you see some poor wife, who has not yet seen her husband coming to claim her, and whose heart is choked with vague apprehensions of evil!  Or, it may be, your eye rests on a blooming young girl, with her heart full of the purest love, and of that courage to face a pioneer life, that is so much a part of the American character, and that has done so much to build us up and make us a great nation.  She has come over the wild seas to her lover, on an understanding that he is to meet her, with priest and witness, on the steamer deck and take her from there his wife.  Now look again, for there the lover comes, faithful to his promise, with a gay party full of joyous excitement, all laughing and fairly up-roarious, as they hug and kiss the now happy girl!  The clergyman may be the Reverend Mr.  <HI REND="italics">Ver Mehr</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Make way for the children! make way for the children!  Stand aside! stand aside!" is now the cry from the crowd.  Then some one calls out: "Three cheers for the children!" and "Three more for the mother who brought them!" adds another.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Oh! they are given with a will; for nothing in those days stirred the hearts of Californians as did the advent of a virtuous woman and children, or a marriage scene!</P>
181.sgm:<P>Look again.  See that powerful-looking man in the miner's rig of red overshirt, with the customary Chinese red silk sash <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I dug this out myself.  May I give it to you, little girl?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>A glance at his face, and the gentle tone of his voice, convinces the mother that the gift is an offering of an absent father of children, far away and devotedly loved, and her heart is full at the thought.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, certainly," she responds; and as the child takes the gift with a sweet "Thank you, sir," the mother adds, "Kiss the gentleman, Emma."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then the child raises her little cherry lips, and the miner stoops and kisses her.  He turns quickly away, drawing his broad-brimmed California hat down more over his face, to hide from view struggling tears and emotion that he could not control.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now, as we stand on the lower step of the stairs that lead to the main cabin, let us look again, and we shall see a lady standing at the door of a stateroom, holding the hand of a child, a sweet little girl, while another, a fine little boy, is amusing himself near her.  She is young, and remarkably beautiful; stylish and dignified in her bearing.  You cannot define exactly the expression of her countenance.  It betrays great anxiety; yet there is a calmness and a sort of determined, forced repose about it that puzzles you as you observe her closely.  Just then she speaks to the stewardess, and asks her to request the Captain to come and see her.  After a few moments the Captain is there.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What can I do for you, Mrs. Allen?  I am at your command," he said, politely.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain," said Mrs. Allen, with a cordial smile, but with a slight tremor in her voice, "I want to ask you if there are any of the police force near at hand."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, yes, dear Mrs. Allen, certainly there are; but I trust nothing has gone wrong," said the Captain, looking surprised, if not alarmed.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no, Captain, not in the least, I assure you, but I want an officer to accompany me to my husband's house."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Mrs. Allen, I fear you have a low estimate of our city of San Francisco.  I assure you there is not a city in the world where a lady, who <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
181.sgm: a lady, is so safe as in San Francisco.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"That I perfectly understand, Captain; but yet I am somewhat timid, and I would be much obliged if you would introduce to me an officer with whom you, Captain, are personally acquainted, and to whom you would say that you personally know me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Allen said all this in a tone of decision, evidently intended to cut off all further question by the Captain.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Most certainly I will, with great pleasure," said the Captain.  Then he added, so as to put her at her ease: "And undoubtedly you are right.  It is the best way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a few minutes the Captain reappeared, accompanied by Captain George Casserly, of the San Francisco police.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Captain Casserly was as odd a genius as ever lived.  I knew him well, as he was my fellow-passenger from New York around Cape Horn.  He was full of fun, and, I may say, of absurdity, too.  Nothing was business to him if it did not have a streak of waggery or some sort of excitement about it.  He loved mystery, and was never so pleased as when his position in the Police Department led him into the secrets of San Francisco life.  He was good-hearted and charitable to a fault, which often led him to overlook what his duty as a police officer should have made him see.  He was careless to almost recklessness in all that related to himself, and never, apparently, gave a thought to the future.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As the steamer Captain left Mrs. Allen, and went on deck, almost the first person he met was Captain Casserly.  In a few words he told him of Mrs. Allen's strange request.  "For," said the Captain, "it would have been more natural if she had asked me to procure her an escort, or told me to send a messenger to let her husband know that she had arrived; but I saw she wanted no questions asked, so I want you, Captain, to let me have one of your force--some intelligent fellow--to see the lady home."</P>
181.sgm:<P>At once Captain Casserly's face, usually almost stolid when in repose, lit up, and a bright twinkle of fun or pleasure danced in his eyes.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Fun on hand, sure," said he to himself.  Then to the Captain: "You know the lady, personally, I suppose, Captain?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Most certainly I do; and she is of one of the best families in the State of New Jersey, and her husband you must know, Edmund F. Allen, who is a merchant in this city."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Allen!" exclaimed Casserly, in a tone of surprise.  "Of course I know him.  He is of the firm of Allen, Wheeler &amp; Co."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The same," said the Captain.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will go with the lady myself, Captain; so introduce me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When the Captain introduced the police officer to Mrs. Allen, he did so in a formal manner, at the same time saying something complimentary of him as an officer and as a man.  Then, excusing himself on the score of pressing duties elsewhere, he extended his hand to wish his passenger good-by.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Allen's manner and expression changed in a moment.  She grasped his hand, and, in a sweet, cordial voice, thanked him warmly for all his attentions and many kindnesses to her and the children.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do not speak of it, my dear Mrs. Allen.  I did but my duty, and then I claim to be a personal friend of your husband's; and for him I would be glad to do much more, if in my power.  Please tell him I will call at his place of business and congratulate him on this happy termination of his misery.  He will now be the envy of all grass widowers in San Francisco."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Allen was on the point of asking him to call at the cottage, on Stockton street, but somehow she could not command the words.  So, bowing with a smile, to acknowledge the Captain's compliment, she remained silent, and the Captain disappeared.  Mrs. Allen now turned to the Police Captain, and, resuming her reserved manner, said, in a calm, steady voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Captain, you know who I am; but I see it puzzles you why I sent for you; but some other time I will explain.  I am now in a hurry to leave this ship.  I am under your protection, and I want you to so consider it until I say otherwise.  I am giving you, and may give you, a great deal of trouble not properly belonging to your duty as a police officer, which you will please not ask me to accept without compensation."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As she spoke she handed him three twenty-dollar pieces.  At first the Captain drew back.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I insist," she continued, as she reached out the money.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain then bowed, and took it.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I did so," said he, when he was telling me the story, "for two good and sufficient reasons.  In the first place, my doing so put the lady more at her ease, and then it is a bad habit for one to get, to refuse money when it is offered, no matter for what or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As the Captain dropped the money into his pocket, in a careless way, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nothing surprises a police officer, Mrs. Allen.  It is a part of his business <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Allen then took from her pocket-book a half sheet of note paper and handed it to the Captain, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Can you, Captain, go directly to the place designated in that paper?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain read, just audibly, the following direction:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It is a nice little cottage on Stockton street, east of Washington.  It sets back a little from the street.  The lot is inclosed by a neat fence.  There are some flowers and rose bushes in front.  The little gate is of a pretty Gothic pattern.  The cottage and fence are all painted white."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As he concluded reading the direction he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Certainly, I know the locality to an inch."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While he was speaking, he walked over to where a lamp was suspended over the cabin table, and, raising the paper close to the light, scrutinized it closely, and then said, in a low tone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I thought I was not mistaken; so this is some more of `Detective Bucket's' work.  I begin to understand now."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, then," said Mrs. Allen, "please procure a carriage that will take you, the children and myself to that place, with as little delay as possible."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain left the cabin to obey, without a word.  As he reached the wharf, he seemed lost in thought, and said, half aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, I begin to work this case up.  That is old `Mother Bucket's' handwriting, sure.  I have got too many notes from her not to know it.  I recollect, now, that, before she went East, she told me one day about that cottage, and something about Allen's having an `over-dressure creature,' as she called her, for a housekeeper.  I took but little notice of it at the time, as I do of all she says, but now it throws light upon this case.  She will get herself into a scrape, yet.  I will snub her when she comes back, so that she will be glad to mind her own business.  Well, Allen is a real good fellow, so I must try and help him out of this scrape.  I see this must be another `Briggs case;' <HI REND="italics">no doubt</HI>
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181.sgm:of <HI REND="italics">it</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As he spoke, he blew his whistle and in a moment a policeman approached him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah Jim! that is you,  Well, go right off to Mallet's livery stable, in Kearny street, and tell him to send me, here to the steamer, that best carriage of his, but you need not hurry him, particularly.  Then go as fast as you can to that little white cottage in Stockton street, half a block east of Washington, in which Mr. Allen lives; call for that gentleman, and when he comes to the door, just say to him, so that no one else can hear you: `Captain Casserly desires me to say to you that your wife has arrived in the steamer, and is now on her way to this house in a carriage with him.'  If Mr. Allen is not at home, do not say a word to any one else, but come to the corner of Stockton and Washington streets, and, as the carriage turns the corner, get into a fit of coughing.  I will notice you and understand that you did not find Allen."  Without asking explanation, on the policeman started, to do as he was directed.  Mallet was too glad to get the order for his fine carriage, the best then in San Francisco, not to make all the haste he could, so that he was on hand much sooner than Captain Casserly wished.  During all this delay, Mrs. Allen seemed to suffer more and more anxiety.  Her eyes were almost wild with an excited expression of half-alarmed, searching scrutiny as every new face appeared in the cabin.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh!" she exclaimed, "how long the Captain is in getting the carriage!  What if Edmund happened to come here, looking for some expected friend!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>And at the thought she shrank back into her state-room.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! how could I meet him <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
181.sgm:!  No; I must hurry away.  We must meet each other when no one else is present, for then I will be the happiest woman that lives on earth, or," here she stopped a moment, as if to overcome a choking sensation in her throat; then continued, in a trembling whisper: "or I will just die at his feet.  Oh, <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Captain Casserly now appeared, and announced the carriage as all ready.  In the kindest and most considerate manner he helped Mrs. Allen to remove her children and all her things to the carriage.  As soon as the carriage was in motion, Mrs. Allen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"My dear madam, it is useless to say that I do not partly divine your thoughts; but you may be totally deceived in what you fear; and, anyway, for the sake of these dear children, try to face it, whatever it may be, with calmness and courage."</P>
181.sgm:<P>There was a tone of hearty good feeling and sympathy in the Captain's words that touched her sweetly; for in her trouble there was a lonesome, oppressive feeling about her heart that they seemed somewhat to relieve.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Captain; you are very kind," said Mrs. Allen, making a great effort to recover her self-composure.  "I trust and hope, and I believe, I shall find my husband perfectly well."</P>
181.sgm:<P>She thus avoided recognizing that the Captain might understand the true cause of her fears.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then the carriage turned the corner of Stockton and Washington streets, and they all observed a man standing near, in a violent fit of coughing.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Mamma," said little Alice, "that man is choking."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I think not, my love; it is only a bad cough."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Captain Casserly said to himself: "I see my plan is overboard.  Well, we must only face the music.  Another Briggs' case, it must be, then.  I will do as Captain Howard did; I will send the dame flying from the house."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now, my young readers, I am sure you want to know how it comes that a lady like Mrs. Allen appears in San Francisco without her husband's knowledge, in such wild excitement and deep anxiety.  Let us go back some years in our history, and we shall ascertain.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>EDMUND ALLEN--A BEAUTIFUL GIRL.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Captain Monroe Allen, a retired sea captain, was a well-to-do farmer, living some twelve miles from Newark, New Jersey.  He had a good wife and five children.  The third boy, Edmund Franklin, they educated with a view to a mercantile life.  So, after a course of good training at a commercial school, they found a place for him with the Captain's old employers, when he followed the sea, Gould, Fox &amp; Co., wholesale dealers in drygoods, Pearl street, New York.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund was a keen, shrewd, active, bright boy--handsome in person, off-hand and most polite in manners.</P>
181.sgm:<P>He made a good use of every hour of his time, and became a great favorite with the firm.  So, three years passed, and now Edmund had almost reached his majority, when one morning Mr. Gould called him into the office, and, in a pompous, measured sort of a way, asked him to be seated.  Then, in the same sort of tone, but in words very complimentary to Edmund, went on to say that, in consultation, the firm had decided to advance him to the position of head salesman, with, of course, a corresponding increase of salary.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund's face lit up with a pleasant, expressive light, and he thanked Mr. Gould, and all the members of the firm, in the most cordial way, for the kindness intended, but told Mr. Gould that he could not avail himself of the offer, as he had made up his mind to at once start into something for himself, should it be in ever so small a way.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My father," continued Edmund, "says that the time for a man to make his fotrune is from the age of twenty-one to forty-five--only just twenty-four years.  So, you see, Mr. Gould, I have no time to lose, and must, if I can, begin to make my fight at once."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Gould looked surprised, and a little put out.  Then he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"That is all true, Edmund; but the question is, How had you better begin this battle for fortune you are so anxious to win?  Had you better stay with us, and advance surely, if slowly, or risk an encounter with the world of business while you are yet so young and inexperienced?  You know, from your father's stories of the sea, that a young captain sometimes runs great risks, with a ship in his command, for the purpose of making a quick voyage; and, in so doing, often loses all, even reputation; while the old and experienced commanders run but few, if any, risks, and almost always reach their destination in safety, and with honor."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; I am sure you are right," said Edmund; "but I do not aspire to the command of a <HI REND="italics">ship</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Gould smiled, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It is easy to see, Edmund, that you are the son of an old seaman; not only from your illustration, but that you inherit a touch of his daring enterprise and self-reliance, all which I like, when tempered with good principle and guided by honor, as I feel sure it will be in your case; but tell me, what is your plan?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund then explained to Mr. Gould that a friend of his, who was a clerk in a drygoods store, was about to be married to his twin sister, and that he had proposed to him a partnership which, with his father's approval, he had accepted; and, in pursuance of this idea, they intended to open a retail dry goods store in Newark, New Jersey.  His father, he said, was to furnish him with three thousand dollars, and his intended brother-in-law was to put a like sum in the business.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After some further consultation, Mr. Gould approved of Edmund's project, and shook hands with him warmly, assuring him of his regret at his leaving, and promising him decided help, whenever he should need it, in any way that their firm could be useful.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund's twenty-first birthday came, and soon after was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Ada, dear, will you never get through with those gloves?"</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear mother, in a moment."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then Edmund held up a pair, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"This is a beautiful shade of blue, and, I think, very nearly what you want."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Ada, "on <HI REND="italics">your</HI>
181.sgm:<P>She said this with the slightest possible emphasis on "your," and, for an instant only, their eyes met, and Edmund thought a slight blush heightened the color of Ada's cheek, and then there was a queer feeling about his own heart he never felt before.  It was not pain, or, if it was pain, it made him feel happy.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Morehouse had made several purchases, so that Edmund sent the errand boy home with the ladies to take the parcel.  That evening, Mrs. Morehouse observed that Ada was very thoughtful, and, half divining the cause, said to her:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Ada, what is the matter with you?  Why is your piano shut down at this hour, and why so thoughtful, my child?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mother, dear, I do not feel exactly well to-night, and, with your permission, I will retire for the night, for I am, beside, somewhat tired and weary."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So saying, Ada left for her own room.  As she entered it, she threw herself into a softly cushioned rocking-chair, and there sat motionless for a long hour, in deep thought.  Once she murmured, half audibly:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"They will say he is only a struggling, retail storekeeper, the son of a farmer and all that sort of stuff.  What if he is; they will have to admit he is a fine, manly-looking fellow, and successful, too, in his business.  For my part, I hate the sight of those rich men who come home with father, to see me.  They are old enough to be my father; and I despise still more those rich men's sons.  They are mostly dissipated, worthless fellows, and I can see that father himself does not love them.  There are exceptions, of course, but they are mighty few."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada again fell into a brown study.  Then, suddenly arousing herself, she began her preparations for the night, and, as she did so, she murmured:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, when next I see him, I may not like him half so well; so I will dismiss those foolish thoughts.  They annoy me, too, for he is the first man that ever bothered me in this way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>But, that night, Ada was again sorting gloves in dreams.  When Ada left her mother, in the parlor, Mrs. Morehouse was waiting for her husband to return from New York, where he had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"I do believe the child is half caught at last.  It is strange, too, by just a retail drygoods dealer.  Well, I do not half blame her; those rich old fellows her father keeps bringing here are enough to disgust her.  What does a handsome young girl like Ada want with them?  And then, as to those impudent, idle, worthless, rich young men, who come here, if there was not another man in creation, I would not let one of them have her.  They have no recommendation but their wealth, which they are sure to get rid of, and, if they do retain it, they use it in such a manner that it is, in fact, a curse to them.  No, I will speak to Willard on this subject; now that our children are beginning to mix with the world, we had better encourage the acquaintance of the sort of young men and girls, too, for there are our sons to be considered, we would be satisfied with for members of our family.  Those rich girls who think of nothing but dress and fashion, and society, and do not know the first thing about house-keeping, I have an utter contempt for.  What sort of wives would they make?  They say we are rich, and I suppose we are, but I would be ashamed if I had brought up my daughter in that sort of way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Morehouse seemed again to sink into thought.  Then, after a little time, she spoke aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If Willard thinks as I do, I will never again invite to our house those rich young scapegraces, and Miss Dollies of girls, even if their fathers are rich.  I will extend our acquaintance among the good and worthy, whether rich or poor.  Yes; and then when we give a party, I will only invite such to it, no matter whom it hurts; for what is the use of being rich, if we can not do as we like, and use our riches to encourage the good and virtuous, whether rich or poor?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then, Mr. Morehouse arrived and it may safely be set down that a man of his sense fully endorsed his wife's views, and authorized her to proceed in society matters, in the future, as she herself had planned to do.</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>A TROUBLESOME COLUMN OF FIGURES.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Mrs. Morehouse and Ada left the store, Edmund went back to his accounts.  He had some long lines of figures to add up.  He commenced his work with seven and nine are sixteen, and five are twenty-one, and eight and eight and eight.  Then, looking vacant, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What dazzling eyes!  Oh! what am I thinking of?  Let me see where I was; oh, yes, here it is.  Seven and nine are sixteen and five are twenty-one, and eight, yes, and eight.  I never heard such a voice; it was all music.  Why, I will never get this outrageous account added up; I cannot put it off either, so here it goes, and now I will attend to it.  Seven and nine are sixteen, and five are twenty-one, and eight would be just twenty-nine, and six, and six, and six--what a smile she had!  I could have just stood there all day looking at her; and that dark, brown hair, I believe she just fixed it up so as to set a fellow crazy.  Well, what am I about?  I believe I <HI REND="italics">am</HI>
181.sgm:<P>He then went on, very loud, and with a voice of strong determination:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Seven and nine are sixteen, and five are twenty-one, and eight (with a yet louder voice) are twenty-nine, and six are thirty-five, and nine, and nine, and nine--I think she did blush just a little, when she took that pair I recommended to her, and I wish she did not," he continued angrily, "for I believe that girl has just put me out of my head.  Where in the mischief was I in my accounts?  Well, now, no more of this fooling, or Roman will be here before I get this account added up.  Seven and nine are sixteen, and five are twenty-one, and eight are twenty-nine, and six are thirty-five, and nine are forty-four, and three are forty-seven, and seven, and seven--I saw her foot as she went out of the door, and I know she does not wear over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Just then he thought he heard suppressed laughter behind him, and, turning quickly around, there stood his sister, Mrs. Roman, who now gave way, unrestrained, to a fit of merry laughter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Edmund," she said, "what has befallen you?  Who is this Venus that has so upset your accounts?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund looked confounded, but, trying to recover himself, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Alice, how long have you been there?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Since you began to try to add up that line of figures, and you <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
181.sgm: make <HI REND="italics">sad</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Then she laughed again, and, throwing herself into a chair near him, she began:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Seven and nine are sixteen; I shall never forget that anyway; and so she has dazzling eyes, dark, brown hair, a bewitching smile, a number two foot, and model hands.  To tell you the truth, brother Edmund, I am glad you are caught; but who is she?  I want to know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If you did know, sister Alice, you would know more than I do."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nonsense, brother; now, that I know you are caught, you may as well make a confidant of me.  I agree to help you if I <HI REND="italics">approve</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Alice, you are too bad.  How did you know all that about her eyes, hair, hands and foot?  I will admit that it is all true, but how did you know it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I read your thoughts, brother Edmund, that is all.  Was not I standing behind your chair while you were blundering over those figures, and mixing them up with the praises of the sweetheart you have found somewhere?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Alice, you know I never keep anything from you, and if there was anything in particular to tell in this matter I would not sleep until I had a talk with you about it; but, in truth, there is nothing."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund then went on to tell his sister of his two lady customers, and concluded:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will just acknowledge to you that I cannot account for my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Not a bad name," said Alice.  "Where is the boy who took the goods home?  Call him in, Edmund."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The boy appeared, and Edmund questioned him as to where the ladies he went with lived.  The boy then described their residence as a beautiful house, surrounded by grounds, with flowers and shrubbery, beautifully kept.  "The ladies," said the boy, "wanted to take the parcel from me at the garden gate, but I knew, sir," he continued, with a half-cunning smile on his face, "that you wanted to know who that young lady was, so I refused to let them, and walked up to the door, and saw on the silver door-plate the name of `Willard S. Morehouse.'"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That is all right, Tom; you are a good boy, but what put it into your head that I wanted to know the name of that young lady, as you say?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I do not know, sir; but you looked so kind of sorry when she left the store."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Go, go, Tom, and don't mind how I look in future, but attend to your own business."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As the boy left, Edmund could not help joining his sister in a hearty laugh.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That is a good boy," said he, "but he is as cunning as a pet fox, and will get himself into a scrape some day watching other people's business, instead of attending to his own."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now," said Alice, "you know who she is; that is one satisfaction; she is Miss Ada Morehouse; I know her father is rich, but they are a sort of haughty, distant people.  I know something of them through an old schoolmate of mine, Sarah Williams, who is Mrs. Morehouse's niece.  She was married, you recollect, the same day I was."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear Alice, I recollect, but do not trouble yourself any more about the girl, for the last thing I will ever do is to go after a rich wife."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But, if a girl is all right in every other way, would you refuse to love her just because she happened to be rich, or have rich parents, as in this case?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No; not exactly that; but I will avoid all such girls, if I can; for the girl herself and her friends will be sure to think your attentions have a mercenary object in view, and there are plenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Alice, "I will not argue with you, Edmund, for there may be something in what you say, and, if you get so that you can add up your accounts correctly, and not mix up Miss Ada Morehouse's praises with them, it is all well."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear sister, I will think no more of this foolish fancy, and I may never see her again; but I do say, Alice, she is one of the most charming girls I ever saw.  I wish you knew her, Alice, just to see if you would agree with me.  I have dismissed the whole matter from my mind, so please do not let Alfred know anything of it, or he would bother me, when, the fact is, I think no more about the girl.  Strange you never heard of her before, Alice.  Her voice is harmony and music itself; I started when first I heard it.  Why, said I to myself, that sounds like what I would fancy was the voice of an angel."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I see," said Alice, with a merry look beaming in her eye, "that you have wholly, as you say, Edmund, dismissed the young lady from your mind."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, wholly, I assure you, sister; I have something else to do than running after any girl, and particularly a rich girl, whose parents would turn up their proud noses at the bare thought of getting a retail drygoods man for their daughter's husband.  No, I have, as we talk here, almost forgotten that I ever saw the girl.  What drew my attention so particularly to her, for the few moments I did think of her, was her hand; I do wish you could have seen it.  I always thought you had a beautiful hand, and that mother's hand was beautiful; but, Alice, I do wish you could have seen hers while she was trying on the gloves; such a model in shape, such delicacy of tinge of color!  Yes, I wish, sister, you could have seen it just as a matter of curiosity, you know.  Well, as I said, I have dismissed the whole subject from my thoughts.  I only wish you could have seen her figure and form; they were faultless in every particular."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Edmund," said his sister, laughing outright, and laying her hand on his shoulder, "don't you see, for mercy's sake, that you are half out of your head about this girl?'</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Alice, I am surprised at you.  Did I not tell you just now that I had dismissed all thoughts of her, and was going to say no more about her?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; but you continue to talk of her."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well, that was just for your satisfaction, and to let you know how really beautiful she is; but mind, you are not to tell your husband, and I am to think of her no more."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, we shall see how that turns out, brother Edmund," said Alice, as she arose to meet her husband, who was then just entering the store on his return from New York.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Alice now took her husband's arm, who was going to accompany her home; and, as she did so, turned to her brother, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Edmund, when you come to dinner, the first thing I will ask you is, if you have that line of figures added up yet, and if you are sure that seven and nine make sixteen."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund shook his head significantly, and laid his finger across his lips in token that he plead for silence.  Of course, the first thing Mrs. Roman did was to tell her husband all about Edmund and Ada Morehouse, concluding with "Now, Alfred, do not pretend to know a word of all this, for Edmund begged of me not to tell you; just as if it was possible for a married woman to keep such things from her husband."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Alice said this with a tone of pity for her brother's ignorance.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Of course, my love," said Alfred; "it would be very wrong to keep anything from me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"O, yes; you say so, dear; but do you tell me <HI REND="italics">everything</HI>
181.sgm:?" laying emphasis on <HI REND="italics">every</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, of course, love, everything it is proper for me to tell."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then you do keep some things from me, Alfred?" said Alice, sorrowfully.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nothing, dear; nothing that is of consequence to you to know do I ever keep from you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, that is right, dear Alfred; that is my idea exactly--no secrets between man and wife."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, love; a wife should never have a secret that was not to be shared with her husband."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Alice, "we agree on that point exactly--as we do in everything; don't we, love?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Certainly, my darling wife, we do."  Then he continued: "Now, as to Edmund; I do not know what may be the result, for I never knew him to be so attracted before by any girl.  So this may have struck in, as they say; and yet it may glance off, and not be heard of again.  We shall see."</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE POOR WIDOW--MR. MOREHOUSE AND EDMUND.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Edmund Allen appeared for dinner at his sister's house, where he boarded, Alice saw that he was making efforts to appear, as he always did, cheerful and happy.  He made a failure of it, however; and Alice remarked that his great pet, the baby, remained almost unnoticed.  All that night Edmund was turning box after box of gloves over in his dreams.  When he awoke the next morning, the first thing he said was:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, confound those gloves.  I am so glad I have dismissed all thoughts of that girl from my mind.  It would just have unfitted me for business, if I had allowed my head to run on thinking of her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Strange to tell, Edmund happened, by accident, of course, to walk by Mr. Morehouse's residence that evening, the next evening, and the next.  On the third evening of this accidental walk, he met Miss Morehouse, with some lady friend, returning from a walk.  Just then, Miss Morehouse dropped her handkerchief, by accident, of course, and walked on, not observing it.  In an instant Edmund picked it up, and, raising his hat, presented it to her with a smile, in which there was a half-recognition.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Mr. Allen," said Ada, with what was to poor Edmund a bewitching manner.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a moment the ladies were out of sight.  Edmund now walked on fast, and apparently wrapped in some exciting thought.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How well my name sounded when she spoke it," he said, half aloud.  "What if I could hear her call me Edmund?  I would just like to hear how it would sound when spoken by her.  I never liked the name; but I do believe I would be satisfied with it forever afterwards if I once heard it spoken by her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a few days after this accidental meeting, Ada and her cousin, Mrs. Eaton, who had been Alice's schoolmate, called at Allen &amp; Roman's, and made a good many purchases for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund, unasked, subscribed liberally himself, and every one in the store gave something.  Then he helped the ladies in making the selections, for he had now a sort of joint interest in the matter, and found himself, before he knew it, in most charming, half confidential talks with Miss Morehouse.  An hour passed, and yet the widow's clothes were not half selected.  Happy widow! you will be well paid for the happiness your necessities bring two young, sympathetic hearts; for while their eyes, their thoughts, are all for each other, they purchase and bestow on you without limit.</P>
181.sgm:<P>That evening, after dinner, Edmund found himself alone with his sister.  He asked her to play and sing for him.  She threw open her piano, and sang and played the songs and pieces he asked for.  Suddenly she turned to him with: "Why, Edmund, do you ask for all those sad and plaintive songs?  What is the matter with you, my brother?"  And as she spoke a smile played on her handsome face.  Then she added: "How much are seven and nine?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund let his head drop on his hand while his arm rested on the piano, and did not at once speak.  Then he said, in a low voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Alice, dear sister, do not laugh at me; but help me.  You know you said you would."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And so I will, my darling brother," she said, as she leaned over and kissed his cheek; "so let us be serious, and tell me all, so that I will know what to do."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There is little to tell, dear sister, but that I cannot stop thinking, day or night, of Ada Morehouse."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Have you seen her since?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Only twice; once, by accident, near her house, and to-day, in our store."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Did you speak when you met her by this accident, as you call it?"  And here again a smile beamed on Alice's face.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund looked at her, reproachfully, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It was quite an accident, I assure yon.  Yes; I picked up her handkerchief, and when I handed it to her she thanked me by name, in the sweetest voice."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Was she friendly, to-day, in her manner to you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"She was sweetness itself, Alice; but I cannot say that it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Enough," said Alice; "I see the case plainly, brother; and there is only one cure for it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And what is that, sister?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That you go to work and convince her that you truly love her, and then that you ask her to marry you.  If she accepts you, you can then love her at your leisure all your life long.  If she rejects you--"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," interrupted Edmund, "exactly; if she rejects me, what then?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, brother dear, you will have to do as other men have done before you--get over your first love and find another angel who will value and return what the first rejects."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Sister Alice, I see you don't understand this case, for if you did you would know that if Ada Morehouse refuses to love me, I will die an old bachelor, as sure as you and I sit here."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, brother, that is all right.  I have no wish to dispute your belief in that respect for the present.  Now, what you want is to get better acquainted with Miss Morehouse, and to give her a better opportunity of knowing you; so I will turn the matter over in my mind and see what can be done."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Good night, sister," said Edmund, kissing her.  "I feel ever so much happier since I told you all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It is, in fact, love on first sight," murmured Alice after Edmund was gone, "a thing I never believed in before."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The next day Mrs. Roman called on Mrs. Eaton, her old schoolmate, and invited her to a social lunch, to give them, as she said, a chance to talk over old school days.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Eaton said: "Oh, that will be nice; I will go, by all means."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Alice went on to say: "I understand you have a beautiful cousin, a Miss Morehouse.  Please get her to come with you; I would so like to know her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will try; and perhaps my aunt will come, too."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that will be yet more gratifying, I assure you," said Alice.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The next day, at the appointed hour, Alice had a beautiful lunch, and all the ladies she had invited were there, including Ada and her mother.  On their return home, both Mrs. Morehouse and Ada pronounced Mrs. Roman a charming lady and one of the sweetest of women.  Then followed a lunch at Mrs. Morehouse's; then an evening party of a few friends at Mrs. Eaton's.  Mr. and Mrs. Roman were invited, but Mrs. Roman sent an apology to say that she had no escort, as her husband had an engagement for that evening.  Then came a note from Mrs. Eaton to ask Mrs. Roman to get her brother to escort her.  Edmund did take her, and then for the first time met Ada in private social life.  To him she looked more charming than ever.  She was all life and wit, and seemed to enjoy herself to the utmost.  Some lady friends, who knew that she sang and played beautifully, requested her to give them some music.  Just as she was going to take her seat, she addressed Edmund, saying: "Are you fond of music, Mr. Allen?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Passionately fond of it," responded Edmund.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then come near me, and ask for what you like best."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund's heart bounded at this compliment.  He took his place near her, but his memory was sadly at fault, and he feared she thought him absolutely stupid, for not one piece of music or song could he bring to his memory to ask for; so, growing desperate at this thought, he resolved to be candid, even at the risk of giving offence; so, stooping as if it were to get her a piece of music, he said, just loud enough for her to hear him: "The truth is, Miss Ada, that when I am near you I know nothing and can remember nothing, but that <HI REND="italics">I am near you</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As quick as thought, her eyes flashed on his face.  She thought that perhaps it was an idle compliment, which would have been offensive in so new an acquaintance.  But no; her unerring woman's perception told her that what he said he meant, for in his eyes was an honest, truthful expression, that said in answer to her look: "Yes; what I said is from my heart."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, as she looked back on her music, a flush crimsoned her face, and she proceeded for a minute in evident agitation.  In another minute, however, she had regained her self-composure and repaid him for his compliment with a sweet smile, and all the evening she was a happy girl, and her dreams that night were of a paradise on earth.  Following this party came some weeks of happiness almost unalloyed to Ada and Edmund.  Edmund was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Morehouse, I came to speak to you of a matter of the utmost importance to me, and shall be perfectly open and candid, and will deem your taking what I say under consideration a great favor."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I promise, unreservedly, Mr. Allen, to do that with pleasure."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Mr. Morehouse; your family have always been kind to me since I was so fortunate as to make their acquaintance, and it cannot, I think, have escaped your notice that Miss Ada's society has been peculiarly attractive to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Morehouse bowed in assent, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Allen, from the turn I see this conversation is likely to take, I would wish, if you have no objection, that Mrs. Morehouse should be present; for, to say truth, I have a great reliance on a mother's judgment in these matters, and deem it her right to have the fullest opportunity of judging of them for herself.  And then my wife and I, sir, have made it a rule of life to share with each other all responsibilities."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No objection, Mr. Morehouse, for it is just what I would wish."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Morehouse soon returned with his wife, who saluted Edmund in the kindest manner, and took her seat by her husband, leaning her arm on his chair.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I have explained, Mr. Allen, to Mrs. Morehouse, the nature of your visit, so you can proceed in what you wish to say.  We are all attention, sir."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I have just spoken, Mrs. Morehouse, of the kindness and courtesy you have all shown me since I had the good fortune of your acquaintance; and I was going to explain that it was far from me to desire to intrude, in an unwished-for way, on the notice of your family; but I come here to acknowledge to you, plainly and candidly, as it becomes a man of honor to do, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Pausing for an instant, he continued, without a shadow of diffidence, but with an earnest voice, that trembled with deep feeling and evident emotion:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"So, as bold as the proposition may seem to you, I come to seek your consent to ask her for her hand in marriage.  I would rather die than do this, if I did not feel sure that, under <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:, her happiness would be safe in my hands.  I am not rich, it is true; but I propose to satisfy you that I am doing a good, prosperous business, which will afford me ample means of supporting a family in all the comforts, if not the luxuries, of life.  And, if I am successful in this suit, I want it distinctly understood that I neither look for nor will I accept any pecuniary endowment with the rich treasure of your daughter's hand.  I come to you, friends, as your kindness to me gives me the right to style you, not rich, but with an honorable, untarnished name, a brave heart to encounter the vicissitudes of life, and with a vow of fidelity and truth, that I trust in <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Happy mother! happy parents both!  As you sit there you cannot but estimate the character of the youth before you at its true, its priceless value; and, as you do so, you feel intensely proud and happy that he so values her who is so near and dear to you.  Yes, mother and father, this homage this true man yields to the result of your labors almost repays you for all that labor, care and anxiety in all the past for baby, child and girl.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Mr. Allen," responded Mr. Morehouse, "for your plain and outspoken statement of your wishes; and I must also acknowledge, which I do with great pleasure, that your way of proceeding is entirely unexceptionable, and in keeping with what I had reasonably to expect from a member of the family to which you belong.  I will be equally candid and open with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As he said this, he turned his head towards his wife, and she promptly said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Perfectly.  You have our full consent to speak to our daughter, and seek her consent to your proposal."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund was on the point of jumping from his chair to extend his hand, in gratitude and thanks, when Mr. Morehouse motioned him to let him proceed further; so Edmund remained in his chair, now like a fettered bird, to hear what Mr. Morehouse wished to add.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You referred to the fact that you were not rich, and to your struggling position, and that you would not receive any money endowment with your wife.  As to your not being rich, there were times, perhaps, when I built castles in the air as to riches for my daughter; but they were but air castles, not founded on good judgment, and have faded away.  In you, sir, I feel, if you are the choice of our child, our views for her will be fully satisfied.  As to the other point, we wish to reserve to ourselves the right to give, as well as not to give, to any of our children, married as well as single; and this I wish understood distinctly.  God has intrusted me with considerable of this world's wealth.  I shall hold what I do not use of it in trust for my children; and our intention is, as long as either of us live, not to lop off any of the branches of the parent oak, but to leave all its spreading shade as a common shelter for all our family, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Mr. and Mrs. Morehouse, how can I thank you?  I have no words to do it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Never mind, never mind, Edmund," exclaimed Mrs. Morehouse, tears streaming down her cheeks; "I will not call you Mr. Allen any more; we understand all that you would say.  Come this evening and see Ada, and we both wish you success, with all our hearts.  She will be home from New York this afternoon some time, and, of course, we will say nothing to her of your visit.  You shall tell her all yourself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, dear Mrs. Morehouse, a thousand times thank you both."  And, shaking hands, he was out of sight in a moment.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE SONG--THE PROPOSAL OF MARRIAGE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Edmund Allen walked quickly towards his sister's house, the world appeared a bright paradise spread out before him, without a cloud to cast one shadow on it.  Yet, now he almost stops walking, and, half-aloud, exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What if I should have totally mistaken Ada's feelings towards me--but no," he said, cheerfully, "I cannot but believe that such eyes as hers always reflect truly the feelings of the heart."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Alice, who knew her brother's mission that morning, was watching for his return, and, as she saw him coming, threw open the door to receive him.  Without speaking, the moment he entered she caught his hand, and, looking up into his face, exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, it is all right; you are accepted, my darling brother; I wish you joy a thousand times over."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Alice, not exactly; I have only seen Mr. and Mrs. Morehouse.  Their reception was all that I could ask, and more, in fact, than I could expect.  I have their consent to see Ada this evening, and their good wishes for my success with her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, then, I consider it as good as settled, my dear brother.  Did you tell them your personal history?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; and I found out that father is an old acquaintance and friend of Mr. Morehouse, and he speaks of him in the highest terms."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, then, all is right, dear Edmund, and I know you have nothing to fear as to your interview with Ada to-night."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, dear sister, I cannot help feeling confident myself, and, therefore, very happy."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Ada returned from New York, that afternoon, she found her father and mother absent.  They were not to be back, Mary, the hired girl, said, until nine o'clock in the evening.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Then Mary busied herself in helping Ada to take off and put away her things and change her walking dress.  As she did so she said, in an assumed careless tone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I believe Mr. Allen is going, or has gone, on some long journey."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What makes you think so, Mary?" said Ada, looking up quickly, with a blush spreading over her face, and then turning very pale.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Mary saw this she turned away to hide a smile, and said to herself: "I thought it was so."  Then she answered aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I don't know, Miss Ada; but he was here this morning, and had a long talk with your father and mother in the library, and when he was going away they both shook hands with him, and I heard your father say `God bless you, sir; I wish you may prosper, with all my heart,' and I heard your mother say `Good-bye, we both wish you success with all our hearts.'"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada stood as if transfixed to the spot, for a minute, in astonishment and evident agitation.  Then, partly recovering herself, she tried to assume a calm voice, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That will do, Mary; I am so tired I believe I will rest here on the sofa until tea time."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mary understood her, and left the room.  But did Ada rest on the sofa?  No such thing.  As the door closed she exclaimed, half-aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What in the world does this mean!  Can he, in fact, be going away, and is he gone, or will he go and not see me!  Oh, that would be so mean of him; I cannot believe it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, throwing herself into a chair, she leaned her head forward on her dressing-table, and, covering her face with her handkerchief, she murmured to herself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"So, then, my dream of happiness is all over;" but, with a start, she seemed to recover herself, and continued: "He looks so true and earnest when his eyes meet mine, that I cannot believe that anything would make him leave without seeing me.  Oh, no," she continued, "he will be here this very evening to tell me why he has to go; I know he will, and I must be ready to receive him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Seeming now to have full faith in this idea, she arose, bathed her face and made her toilet with uncommon care, which did not escape Mary's notice when Ada appeared at the tea-table.  Time now seemed intolerably slow in passing.  At length she hears a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Edmund's heart bounded as he recognized his favorite song.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Bless her darling little heart," said he: "that is a good omen."  As the girl threw open the parlor door to admit him, the song was not yet finished, but Ada arose to meet him, and extended her hand in her usual cordial manner.  As he took it he retained it for a moment, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Let me lead you back to the piano to finish that song, for as much as I always admired it, it never seemed so sweet to me before."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"With great pleasure," said Ada, seating herself again.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Somehow she outdid herself in that song.  Never before did she throw such soul and feeling into it as now.  As she arose, Edmund's eyes were beaming on her with delight and admiration.  He offered her his arm, and she took it mechanically.  He led her to a little <HI REND="italics">tete-a-tete</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"I have something to say to you, Miss Ada, that concerns me very much.  Will you sit with me here and let me tell you what it is?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Certainly, Mr. Allen," she said, taking her seat by him, and looking up into his face, she continued, with a slight tremor in her voice, "you do not look well, Mr. Allen; is there anything the matter?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nothing whatever," he said, "but the natural anxiety of one starting, as it were, on a long journey, who feels miserable at the idea that he may be all alone in all its vicissitudes and trials; but, you, dear Miss Ada, are very pale; I fear you are not well."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, perfectly, Mr. Allen; but where are you going, and why do you go on this journey?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Ada spoke, her voice was suppressed and yet more tremulous.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will explain." said Edmund; "but I was first going to ask you if, as a great favor, you would leave off that cold formula, <HI REND="italics">Mr. Allen</HI>
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181.sgm:<P>"But you call me <HI REND="italics">Miss</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Then I may call you Ada and you will call me Edmund?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada hesitated.  "Just when we are here alone," pleaded Edmund in the same soft voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>A low but decided "Yes," followed from Ada.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I would like to go yet further," said Edmund, his face now beaming with happiness, and ask you to let me preface your name with what my heart dictates and calls for."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada hesitated, and Edmund again pleaded: "Just when we are here alone, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As he said this, he took her unresisting hand in his.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada, now scarlet, then pale, by a great effort, commanded just breath enough to whisper:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What do you want to call me?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund leaned over close to her and, in a voice, clear but thrilling with intensity of feeling, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I want to call you, while we are here alone, and forever more, while life lasts, my darling, my own Ada."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now, each of my young readers must, to their own satisfaction, conclude in imagination this happy scene between Edmund and Ada, which is evidently going to cause two young, true hearts to go forth as one, in the battle of life.  It was 10 o'clock when Mr. and Mrs. Morehouse returned.  As they opened the parlor doors, Edmund and Ada stood before them, arm in arm.  In an instant, Ada's arms were around her father's neck and then her mother's, and she whispered in her mother's ear as she kissed her:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh mother!  I am so happy."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, taking one look at Edmund, she glided off to her own room, to fancy and dream that all the world was as happy as she was.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The father and mother now congratulated Edmund most heartily, and Mrs. Morehouse kissed his cheek and called him her "dear son, Edmund."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Alice and Alfred Roman waited up for Edmund's return.  As he entered their house, Alice started to her feet and cried out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, is it, Edmund?"  And he responded:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, sister dear."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then she flew to him and embraced him and kissed him over and over, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
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181.sgm:<P>"My loving sister thinks so, anyway," said Edmund.  As for Alfred, he called for three cheers, which he gave himself, and then shook Edmund by both hands.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Edmund!  Alfred and I have just planned," said Alice, "that you are to take me to see father and mother to-morrow, to talk over everything with them.  They will be so happy, it will do us good to see them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"With all my heart, dear Alice.  It is just what I would wish to do;" and so it was settled.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Alice, "I will never again disbelieve in love at first sight.  I see now it does happen <HI REND="italics">sometimes</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Now came a time of the highest enjoyment and happiness to all the relations of the young people on both sides.  An interchange of visits and calls was the order of the day.  Congratulations poured in on all sides, and never was a happier engagement.  The wedding day was fixed and was near at hand.  It came, and the nuptials took place at the house of the bride's father.  After the ceremony, all partook of Mrs. Morehouse's elegantly prepared breakfast, after which Edmund and Ada set out for a trip to the Falls of Niagara; then across Lake Ontario and down the river St. Lawrence to Quebec, and back home by Lake Champlain, Saratoga and the Hudson river.  When they reached home, Ada was presented by her father with a deed of a handsome, unostentatious residence, all handsomely furnished.  In the selection and arrangement of the furniture, Alice and Mrs. Eaton had helped Mrs. Morehouse.  A little party was assembled at the residence to welcome the owners home, and most heartily did they do so.  Time ran on, and in its course came two beautiful children to make the house yet more cheerful and joyous.  Not a cloud, not a shadow had so far ever crossed the path of life of this young couple.  Innocent and pure in their love, with enough of worldly goods to meet their daily wants, they were more happy than is the prince on his throne.  Oh, California! when you came with your untold treasure of gold, which was so evidently sent by Providence to aid this great republic in its impending danger and struggle for life with its own mad children, why was it a part of your mission to destroy a happy home, such a paradise on earth as this of Edmund and Ada's?  Yet so it seemed.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>NEWS FROM CALIFORNIA--A TERRIBLE DREAM.</P>
181.sgm:<P>One day in November, 1848, Edmund Allen came home as gay and light-hearted as usual.  Ada met him with a bright smile and her usual kiss of welcome.  The streets that day were muddy, so Edmund announced his intention to change his boots for slippers.  Little Alice, their eldest, ran towards her father, calling, "Pa, <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
181.sgm:<P>He expresses his thanks to her, praises her, and tells her she is his "little woman," his "pet," and that she had earned a dozen kisses from him.  Then she holds up her little cherry lips to get her pay, and oh! how sweet to him was it to pay that debt!  Then, elated with her success, she drags his muddy boots towards the kitchen along the carpet.  Then her mother calls out: "Oh, Alice dear! dirty ma's carpet."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, ma; I am clean Pa's boots."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Edmund catches her up, puts her on his shoulder, then makes her feet walk on the wall, and tells her she is a fly.  Then he pretends to eat her up, while he kisses her all over.  Then Ada is jealous; she says that he has forgotten the baby.  So he takes the baby, and hugs and kisses the little darling until Ada begs him to sit down to dinner or "Everything will be cold," she says.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At dinner Edmund tells his wife that he has the New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"I will read it for you," he says, "after dinner, if you would like to hear it, as I have not yet read it myself, but Alfred was telling me about it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear; I would like very much to hear it; but wait until the children are in bed."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So, dinner over, and the little ones snug in bed, Ada takes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Edmund leans over and kisses her, then draws out the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"I wonder," said Ada, as he concluded, "if these accounts are to be relied on?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, in the main facts, I suppose they are.  It is truly wonderful," said Edmund.</P>
181.sgm:<P>He laid the paper down, and walked up and down the room, as if in thought.  Then he stopped short, and, seeming to throw the thoughts, whatever they may have been, from him, he said: "Come, dear wife, lay down your work, and sing for me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Certainly, my dear husband, I will, for I do not like to see you thinking of business at home in the evening.  You know it is against both our ideas."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, darling; you are right.  There is, as you intimate, a time for all things, and this is always an hour for enjoyment; so away with thoughts of business, and of gold, too."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund opened the piano for Ada, and, seating himself by her, as was his habit, called for his favorite songs and pieces of music.  As Ada concluded, and was closing down the piano, Edmund said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I wish I had not read those accounts of gold in California to-night.  It has somehow disturbed me, and made me feel disagreeable."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Strange," said Ada, "it has had the same effect on me.  The feeling is undefined, and I would not have noticed it if you had not."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How very strange," added Edmund, "that it had the same effect on us both.  Well, it is said, you know, that the Old Boy is always glad when gold is plenty.  Perhaps he is going to try to reach us through it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"God forbid," said Ada, fervently, "that he should succeed in doing so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"God forbid, my darling wife," responded Edmund, in the same tone of voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As they knelt together that night in prayer, as was their wont to do, Edmund's voice seemed to Ada more than usually deep and earnest as he asked for protection against temptations.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Why, my darling wife," said Edmund, who was awakened by her fearful cry, "what is the matter?  You are surely not frightened by a dream?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Edmund, it was so fearful, so terrible, so vivid; I can see it all yet.  The horrid ice, as it crashed and roared; the danger of the children, and your pitiful call for me to come to you; but, oh, it was all only a dream.  Thank God!  Thank God!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>While she spoke her teeth chattered, and she was trembling all over, as if in great terror.  Edmund got up, lit the lamp, got her a drink, and did everything he could to aid her to regain her composure.  He spoke cheerfully, laughed at her thinking so much of a dream, declared all dreams to be ridiculous, and unworthy of the least attention, and blamed himself for having told her of the frightful escape of the man and his wife, so near bed-time.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"I know all you say is, in fact, true, my dear Edmund; but yet I never, in all my life, suffered as I did in that dream."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, try and think no more of it, dear wife."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Edmund, with tact and skill, drew off her thoughts in another direction, and it was not long before they were both once more fast asleep.  No dreams came to disturb Ada any more that night.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Oh, California! was that dream your work?  And what does it portend to this virtuous and happy couple?</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now came the California fever so often spoken of.  Every new arrival from there heightened the excitement, and the daily papers found profit in fanning the flame, until it became almost a frenzy in the minds of the whole people.  The New York <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
181.sgm: raked up every possible scrap of information, not only on gold discoveries, but of the climate, soil and capabilities of California and of the whole Pacific coast.  Rude maps and diagrams of the geography of the country were appearing every day in the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Now, the rush, which is soon to swell into a mighty tidal-wave, of the young, the middle-aged, and, in many cases, even of the old, begins for California.  The journey was a very expensive one, and an outfit besides must be had.  This held back thousands who would willingly have gone if they had the means.  In some cases families clubbed all their resources to enable one member to go.  Many young men, whose character gave them good credit, were assisted to go by well-off friends.  Others obtained help by entering into contracts to divide all they made for the first year after reaching California with the party furnishing the required money.  This last way was very common for those who could not go themselves, though having ample means, faith in California, and the prospect of becoming rich there.  Such readily risked their money in the venture, against the toil and personal service of some good, enterprising young fellow.  When the excitement rose to its height Allen and Roman became infected, but not at first so as to wish to go themselves.  They, however, fitted out one or two young men they had faith in, and started them to California, on a contract such as I have mentioned.  Indirectly, they helped some others to go and try their luck in the land of promise.  To one such case in particular let me draw attention in the next chapter, as the little heroine of the circumstance will figure as an object of interest in our next story, illustrating early life in California.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>MINNIE WAGNER--BROTHER AND SISTER.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie Wagner was a beautiful girl of fifteen; she was handsome in face and faultless in form, with piercing and very pleasant dark, blue eyes; her hair was what might be called fair, but not light; she had a profusion of it, so that when she sometimes, for the amusement of her companions threw it out loose, it swept the ground, and almost enveloped her whole person while she stood erect.  In her disposition she was generous and unselfish to a fault.  She had one brother, to whom she was devotedly attached.</P>
181.sgm:<P>He was five years older than she was, and resembled her in many traits of his character.  Minnie was always his pet, his darling.  They shared together all their little trials and crosses, and all their little joys and amusements.  Each watched for the other on all occasions, in seeming forgetfulness of themselves.  Their parents resided in a small, unpretending cottage which they owned in the outskirts of Newark.  In front of it there was a charming little flower garden, inclosed by a pretty fence, painted white.  The flowers were well taken care of, and in their selection and management showed excellent taste.  Everything in and about the cottage was as neat as neat could be.  A glimpse into the little parlor showed a plain rosewood piano.  The father, Thomas Wagner, was an architect and house-builder by occupation, and an industrious, good man.  The mother was as good a woman as the father was a man, and of no common educational culture.  She was Irish by birth, and was of a good family in her own country.  The father, and nearly all her immediate relatives, lost their lives in one of those patriotic uprisings that are so often occurring in Ireland in, thus far, though, let us hope, not always to be, fruitless efforts to rid themselves of the terrible tyranny of English rule.  One brother, whose life was spared, and whom she loved devotedly, escaped to France, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>At length, through the influence of a good lady who had become her friend, she obtained a very advantageous position as teacher in a school in Newark.  But it was not long before some narrow-minded parents objected to her on account of her religion.  This aroused a bitter controversy among the patrons of the school.  The young architect, Thomas Wagner, attended a meeting called to consider the matter.  He had never seen the young lady, but his true American chivalry of character, and true American detestation of persecution of any sort, but particularly persecution for opinion's sake, caused him to take part in the discussion, and by his manly, brave defence of the stranger girl shamed all bigotry into silence.  Miss Fitzgerald was not present, of course; but, on hearing to whom she owed so much, called on him to express her heart-felt thanks.  And so it was that very soon Miss Fitzgerald became Mrs. Thomas Wagner.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Thomas Wagner was known to be skilled in his profession, and, therefore, very seldom out of employment.  He supported his family in comfort, and laid by a little each month in the savings bank for a "rainy day."  When the son was sixteen the father took him from school, and got him a good position in a hardware store in Newark.  Being like most fathers, he preferred his son should choose any mode of life rather than his own.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie went to a day school kept by the good Sisters, and improved rapidly in all her studies, and was instructed in music by her mother.</P>
181.sgm:<P>A few months before the California excitement broke out, Mr. Wagner met with a terrible accident.  He fell from a house he was at work on, breaking his leg, and otherwise seriously injuring himself.  This was a severe trial to the whole family.  Minnie left school to wait on her father's sick-bed; and to her watchful eyes and gentle hand he owed many an easy hour and refreshing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>After a family talk and consultation, it was settled that Mrs. Wagner should, the next day, apply to Allen &amp; Roman for work.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In those days retail drygoods dealers were in the habit of taking orders for shirts from gentlemen wishing them made in a certain style and finish; so Mrs. Wagner was not disappointed.  She came home with the material for a dozen shirts.  The price allowed for making was small enough, yet reasonable; so that, with Minnie's help, who was a beautiful sewer, she could meet all the family expenses.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Sewing machines were not in vogue in those days; so, as they cared for and watched by the dear sick father, they went on, as it is in the "Song of the Shirt," "Stitch, stitch, stitch," all the day long, mother and daughter.  When forced to stop and prepare the frugal meals, they did so with a sense of the greatest relief; for so incessant was the strain on their eyes and fingers all the day, with the never-ending stitch, stitch, stitch, that any work seemed light and a relaxation in comparison.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Until the shirt-making commenced, Minnie would often soothe her father's weary hours by playing for him on her piano; but now he did not ask her for music, except on Sundays, fearful to take the time from the everlasting work on the shirts; so the only enjoyment left was, that in the evenings Walter read aloud for his father, while his mother and sister sewed on and listened.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now came the California news, and Walter's evening reading was mostly of all its wonders.  There is nothing on earth that will fascinate as stories of gold-finding will, when supported by any show of truth.  It is not surprising, then, that the Wagner family did what all their neighbors were doing--talked and dreamed of gold.  The father, on his sick bed, often exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If I were well, I believe I would try my luck in California."</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Then the mother would say: "Well, dear Thomas, do not think of it; for it is not <HI REND="italics">God's</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear wife, I have no doubt you are right; and I am almost sorry I ever heard of California, as it adds to my regret that I am so helpless here."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Minnie would do or say something to draw her father's mind from sad thoughts:</P>
181.sgm:<P>On the first Sunday that came after the California excitement had risen to its height, the mother went to early church, and Walter and his sister went together to the late service.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Somehow this Sunday they were both very thoughtful, and said but little, which was uncommon; for usually, when together, they never ceased to talk of one subject or another.  Several times on their way back Minnie stole an anxious side-glance into her brother's face, but made no remark.  When they got home, dinner was ready.  It was set on a table, near their father's bed; so they sat down, and Minnie tried to be cheerful and to make them all feel so, for her father's sake.  She laughed and talked even more than was common for her.  The father felt pleased and thankful to see her so happy, but the keen eye of the mother detected uncommon anxiety beneath this show of good spirits.  In the evening the mother went to vespers, leaving the brother and sister alone to take care of their father.  There was a nice little fire in their father's room, so Minnie sat near it in a rocking-chair, while Walter read aloud for his father from a book he thought would interest him.  The father, with Minnie's aid, settled himself into the most comfortable position, and seemed to be much interested in the reading, but he soon dropped off into a sound sleep.  Walter closed the book, and glanced towards his sister to see if she too slept, for she had been so perfectly still.  To his surprise her eyes met his, full of bright-beaming light.  She arose from her chair, without speaking, and removed the lamp from the little table near which Walter had been reading, and laid it on the floor just inside her own bedroom door; then, drawing a second chair close to the fire, she beckoned to her brother to come and sit near her.  He did so, noiselessly, and whispered earnestly, while he took her hand in his:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What is it, darling Minnie, that troubled you so all day?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, nothing, dear Walter, but that I have been watching <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>333</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"What did you think it was, Minnie?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I know; you want to go to California."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Who told you, Minnie?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Your friend James De Forest was here yesterday to see father."  If Walter could have seen his sister's face as she said this, he would have seen the slightest little blush spread over it.  "And, as he was leaving, he beckoned me to follow him into the garden, and then he told me he was going; that he had just got money enough together to take him there, and that he wanted you to go with him, but that you had not quite enough of money, and that you did not know how you could leave us either."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here Minnie's voice choked a little, so that Walter did not catch the last part of her whisper, and the only response he made was to clasp her little hands in both of his, with the gentlest pressure.  She seemed to recover herself, and went on:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, I want to tell you, my brother, that I approve of your going, and that I can help you.  Yes, you look surprised, Walter; but I can help you, though.  I am a little girl, but, Walter, I am not, you know, like a rich girl, who has rich parents to do everything for her, and to give her everything she wants, and has never to think for herself; no, I have to <HI REND="italics">think, think</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">plan, plan</HI>
181.sgm: for myself often and often; so now I feel like a woman grown, and you will see that I will help you, my darling Walter; so you must tl me all your plans, and then let me think and <HI REND="italics">think</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Minnie, you are so fond of me that you always forget your poor little self, for how could I leave dear mother and you here alone, and poor father, so sick?"  Then, dropping his whisper still lower, he continued: "The Doctor told me there was yet great danger in father's case, and, Minnie, if <HI REND="italics">anything should</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Here his voice failed, and he could not proceed, and for some minutes both brother and sister remained silent, with their hands yet more tightly clasped; and without courage to look at each other, their gaze was on the burning embers before them.  Minnie was the first to recover her voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear Walter," she said, "do not let such fears trouble you; see, I am a <HI REND="italics">woman</HI>
181.sgm:, you are four years older, and must be a <HI REND="italics">man</HI>
181.sgm:, as you always have been in fact.  In six months you can send us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>334</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Minnie, grown or not grown, you are a woman, sure enough, and I will talk to you as I would to mother or Uncle John.  In the first place, then, supposing we get mother's and father's consent, I have not the necessary money; I am fifty dollars short of what would be necessary to take a second-cabin passage around Cape Horn, which is the cheapest way of going to California, and is the way James De Forest intends to go.  The firm owes me fifty dollars, and I met Uncle John yesterday, and he told me he would lend me twenty-five, but how to get the other fifty I am puzzled.  I have thought of every one I know of, that I could ask, and of every way and plan to get it, but I was forced to believe that it was out of the question.  Oh, Minnie, if I could go, and succeed in sending home money, how happy it would make me!  Poor father could then have a little rest, even if he was well, and you and mother need not take any more shirts to make; for, Minnie, that will kill you both if you have to continue such work much longer.  You both look pale and miserable since you have had to work on those shirts, and Uncle John and James De Forest say the same."</P>
181.sgm:<P>There were tears standing in Minnie's bright, expressive eyes, but she brushed them away, and, patting Walter on the shoulder, while she looked up in his face, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Walter, dear, I want you to listen to me, for we have not much more time to talk; mother will be home in a few minutes; I have a plan in my head," placing her hand on her forehead, "to get this fifty dollars; I will not explain it to you just now, but be satisfied it is all right, for I will explain it to mother to-morrow, after I get her consent to let you go to California; so when you come home in the evening I will be able to tell you how it worked; so, now do not worry yourself too much about mother and myself, for it is no use, and we will do our best to take care of our health, and I want you to be strong for your journey, and for your work digging gold in California for us, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then they heard their mother coming, apparently in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Don't give up, Walter; we will succeed in some way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"God bless you, my darling sister," was all that Walter had time to say as the door opened and their mother and Uncle John entered.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The father awoke from his refreshing sleep, and all had a pleasant talk.  Then Uncle John left, and everything was arranged as usual for the night.  Minnie retired to her own little room next to her parents, where she slept within call, should her mother need anything during the night.  When she was alone she knelt by her bed, and then her night prayers were unusually long and earnest; for, with her whole soul, she prayed for help and courage to go through with what she had undertaken.  She arose from her knees, seeming to feel more calm and happy, saying, audibly:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My plan is this: we make a dollar now over our family expenses every week.  I will get mother to let me get up an hour sooner every morning, and to work an hour later every day, and in this way I can earn at least a dollar a week more.  That will be two dollars a week saved.  Now, to-morrow I will go to Allen &amp; Roman's and offer to make shirts for them at the same price that Rathbone &amp; Simonson pay, which is ten cents a shirt less than Allen &amp; Roman now pay us, if they will advance us $50 for Walter to go to California, and take it back at two dollars each week until we have it paid.  Oh! I am sure they will do it, they are so good and kind; and then they will save so much on the shirts each week.  Ten cents is a good deal, and Rathbone &amp; Simonson say that Allen &amp; Roman are fools to pay us so much; but they knew father.  It was he who fixed up their store when they began business; and they always praise him, and say he is so honest and good, and they are sorry for his accident; and Mr. Allen told me, the other day, that the shirts we made gave more satisfaction than any shirts they ever had made before, and he told me I looked pale, and that I must not work so hard, and was so kind in his way of talking to me.  Oh! I know he will do it.  What do I care if I am a little pale?  It will only be for this year, and then--oh! yes; and then, when we hear from Walter, and when he sends us home gold that he <HI REND="italics">himself</HI>
181.sgm: has dug in California!  Oh! won't that make us all so happy!"  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"To-morrow, yes, <HI REND="italics">to-morrow</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Thus Minnie ran on as she undressed, and, after she was in bed, she continued building castles in the air.  Over and over she shaped them, till they grew almost real to her heated fancy.  Her eyes, instead of closing in sleep, were wide open; fixed, in the darkness, on the happy and beautiful scenes in her coming life which her imagination pictured before her.  At length she suddenly seemed to recollect that sleep she must, so as to enable her to face her work of "to-morrow."  By an effort she changed her thoughts to her daily duties, and was not disappointed, for soon she was lost in dreams; but they were troubled, and the morning light found poor Minnie unrefreshed.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE GIRL'S ERRAND--ADA AND MINNIE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Monday morning came, bright and beautiful, to all, rich and poor.  Minnie, though half weary, arose, full of resolute courage, and was unusually quick in her morning work.  She found a good opportunity to talk with her mother.  She was pleased to find that Uncle John had prepared her for Walter's proposition, and that both her parents had made up their minds to let Walter go, if he could in any way get the necessary amount of money without taking the little sum that lay in the savings bank, which they held as almost sacred.  Minnie now explained her plan for getting the fifty dollars to her mother, and, as she did so, somehow it did not look so sure of success as it did to herself the night before.  Her mother said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear child, I am satisfied that we should work a little more every day, as you say, if it would get us the money for Walter on the terms you speak of.  But, Minnie dear, I fear you will find that Allen &amp; Roman will not advance so large a sum on such security.  They know father cannot work for a long time yet, and they know that it is your work and mine that supports all of us, and pays for medicine and the doctor's bills.  And, though they will not doubt our honesty and good intentions, yet they will see that if anything happened to any of us, we could not pay so large a sum."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Minnie's heart sank within her as she listened to her mother.  Then, after a pause, in which she tried to regain her confidence and courage, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, dear mother, have you any objection that I should try, and see what they say?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Not in the least, my dear child.  Go, if you wish; and tell them that I make the request with you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But, mother darling, I do not want <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
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181.sgm:<P>"My darling," said her mother, kissing her, "let us not dispute this point until you hear what Allen &amp; Roman say about the money." </P>
181.sgm:<P>It was not long before Minnie was on her way to Allen &amp; Roman's.  She took with her four shirts they had just finished.  As nearer and nearer she came to Allen &amp; Roman's place of business, less and <HI REND="italics">less</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"How is it that everything looks so different to me from what it did last night?  I told Walter I was as wise as a woman grown, and he said the same; but, after all, I find I am nothing but a foolish little girl.  Well, I will leave those shirts, anyway."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Minnie! her heart was now at the lowest and saddest depth.  The loss of her great plan to get the fifty dollars seemed to bewilder her.  That plan, which was the corner-stone of all the castles she had lain awake so long the night before to build and admire.  The castles, that reached away into the future of her life, making every one she loved happy, she had now to give up as absurd.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As she entered the store she felt like one in a dream.  Everything around her had a sort of moonlight appearance.  Mechanically she handed the shirts to the clerk, and asked for a supply of unmade ones.  As she spoke, her lips quivered, and it was all she could do to save herself from a burst of hysterical weeping.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then a beautiful little girl, dressed in the richest style, came dashing into the store from the office, full of laughter, holding a gold watch in her hand, with its long guard-chain entangled around her arm.  She was closely pursued by her mother, calling her:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Here, now, you little mischief; give me that watch."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The child ran to Minnie for protection, and, almost leaping into her arms, thrust the watch into Minnie's bosom, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Don't let Ma have it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then followed a treaty of peace between the mother and child, in which Minnie had, of necessity, to join.  During this little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Did you want to see Mr. Allen?" said Ada, in her sweetest voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, ma'am," said Minnie; "but I have given it up.  It was foolish to think of it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What have you given up, dear girl; and what was it that was so foolish to think of?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, dear Mrs. Allen, for I know now that it is to Mrs. Allen I am speaking, I have given it all up; so there is no use in telling you.  You would think me so foolish."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While she spoke, her color came and went alternately; but her eyes were brighter and brighter, and larger and larger, it appeared to Ada.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Allen has only just gone out, and will undoubtedly be in soon again; so, until he returns, come in and sit in the office with me, and tell me all about yourself.  Perhaps I can be of some use to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Without speaking, Minnie followed Ada, just as one in a fairy tale follows a good Geni, who has appeared to them.  She took her seat opposite Mrs. Allen, and was now calm, but excited to the utmost.  Her beautiful eyes were full of truth, and in them her heart was easily seen.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Mrs. Allen," Minnie began, "you look so kind and good, that you will not think badly of me, if I do just tell you everything--my plan and all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Certainly not, dear; it is just what I asked you to do," said Ada.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Minnie told her who she was; how her family came to apply for work to Allen &amp; Roman; how she left the Sisters' school to help her mother after her father's accident; how her brother read to them every night about gold in California.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then she told of her talk with her brother Walter the night before, and of her plan to raise the money, and how nice the plan looked that night, but how different it looked as she came near the store, and how she gave it up and was just going to leave for home when "that little angel," concluded Minnie, pointing to little Alice, who was now seated on her mother's lap, with her eyes fixed on Minnie, "flew to me, and as I put my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Ada had to struggle to keep Minnie from seeing how much her simple story affected her.  If she had followed the impulse of her heart, she would have counted out to Minnie the coveted fifty dollars from her pocketbook, but she preferred to leave the matter to Edmund; so she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Minnie, as soon as Mr. Allen comes in, you go into the store and wait there while I talk with him, and I will tell you if he can find any way to help your brother to go to California."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! Mrs. Allen," said Minnie, "I fear I am giving you too much trouble.  I did not mean to do so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It is no trouble; I will be very glad if Mr. Allen can help your brother."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Ada talked on with her about various things, and was more and more pleased the better the insight she got into her generous, unselfish character.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund came, and Ada and he had a talk on Minnie's business, and they soon came to a conclusion.  Edmund called her in, shook hands with her; asked for her father in the kindest way.  Then he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie, Mrs. Allen has told me all about your wanting fifty dollars to help your brother go to California, and, also, your plan to pay it back.  Your plan is a very good one, and does you great credit, but I think I have a better plan.  Mrs. Allen tells me that she often wants little jobs of sewing done for herself and the children, and she proposes to give you all such in the future, and she will credit you with the amount on this fifty dollars I will give you now, and after Walter gets to California, if he sends me the money, then Mrs. Allen will pay you and your mother for all work done up to that time.  How will that plan do, Minnie?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that will be ever so much better for us all, Mr. Allen, and I will be delighted; but, you know, we will make the shirts for the store for ten cents apiece less, while we owe this money; that is, for the same price Rathbone &amp; Simonson pay."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund smiled.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Minnie; not one cent less.  The store has nothing to do with this fifty dollars; it comes from my private funds.  You work too hard as it is, and I hope Walter will be able to send you home money, as I am sure he will be, for he is a good, steady <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>As Edmund spoke, he counted out fifty dollars and handed it to Minnie.  She was unable to say a word of thanks, but caught his hand and kissed it.  Then, turning to Mrs. Allen, she whispered:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"May I kiss you!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada at once stooped and kissed her, in the most cordial manner.  Minnie now caught up little Alice in her arms, and, hugging and kissing her, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I owe all this to this little angel!'</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then she put her handkerchief to her face to hide her flowing tears, and hurried through the store, with the fifty dollars grasped hard in her little hand, and now over the pavements she almost bounded.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Edmund and Ada walked home from the store, after Minnie's visit, their conversation turned on the Wagner family, for Ada had become very much interested in all that concerned them.  Edmund gave her all the particulars that she had not got from Minnie's own story.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Edmund," said his wife, as he concluded, "that fifty dollars you gave little Minnie did me more good than if you had spent five hundred on me in diamonds and jewelry."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I have not the least doubt of it, my dear wife, and it does appear to me a thousand times the best way of spending money when one has it to spend."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, and it gives so much more happiness than if spent for mere personal pleasure.  I will, of course, give them but little work, for I see the poor things are worked to death.  Had I not better, Edmund, go and see if the poor father is wanting in any necessity?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do, dear, and take sister Alice with you; but recollect they are proud, and you would hurt their feelings if you proposed to give them anything in charity."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Of course," said Ada, "I could see that from the independent, noble bearing of that beautiful child.  No; I will take them a job of sewing, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And so it was settled.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Ada, after a pause, "how fearfully this California excitement is spreading; it reaches the rich and the poor both."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear Ada, so it does," responded Edmund.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Then both walked on in thoughtful silence until they reached their own home.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Minnie reached home with the money, the surprise and gratification of her parents knew no bounds, as neither supposed there was even a chance of her success.  When Walter came home in the evening he was equally surprised, and declared that Minnie was not only a little <HI REND="italics">woman</HI>
181.sgm:, but the <HI REND="italics">greatest</HI>
181.sgm: little woman in the whole State of New Jersey.  Now all difficulties in the way of Walter's departure were overcome.  But in this success, joy and gladness were blended.  Joy that Walter could go, and sadness that they were parting with him.  Minnie's heart seemed proud within her at the result of her day's work; but yet, when she retired to her room that night and knelt, her prayers were all murmurings of praise and thanks to <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Wagner, recollecting all poor Minnie had gone through that day, and anxious to see if her rest was quiet, arose from her seat by the father's sick-bed and went to her room.  As she entered, she stood near the bed and elevated the light in her hand.  Minnie had thrown the bed clothes back so as to leave her shoulders and arms cool and free from the weight of the clothes; she is partly turned on her side and facing the wall; her little hands are clasped before her, as if in prayer; her hair has fallen down over the pillow in profusion to the floor, at her mother's feet, forming a picture of beauty and innocence that charmed and filled the mother's heart with happiness and pride, and a smile of almost triumph appeared on her face; but suddenly the smile disappears, and tremblingly she listens, for Minnie murmurs: " <HI REND="italics">Gold</HI>
181.sgm:, Walter, <HI REND="italics">gold</HI>
181.sgm:, where is it?"  Oh, California!  California!  What do you mean to do with this beautiful child?  Lure her on, and set her heart wild with fabulous stories of your riches and gold, until we shall find her on a steamer's deck away, far away on one of your great rivers, alone and unprotected, trembling in fear; for fiends in human shape are planning a fearful fate for her.  But <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>DESIRE TO GO TO CALIFORNIA--DEPARTURE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>To Edmund Allen everything around Newark became daily staler and staler, and terribly insipid.  The whole Pacific coast appeared suddenly to loom up, and to call for the young, energetic and ambitious to come forth and build there a great nation, and be themselves first among the first.  This sort of attraction was not of that sordid character that led so many to California.  It was far more noble, and reached many a heart that gold alone could not have tempted to leave home and all that was dear to them on earth.  Edmund became deeply interested in all the scraps of history of the Pacific coast that were every day appearing in the public prints, and at length became fired with an ambition to mingle with the actors there.  Ada saw the growing desire taking possession of his mind, and trembled to think of the consequences.  At length, one morning after breakfast, he said to her:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ada, my love, what would you think of our going to California?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Our</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"No, darling wife, I do not mean <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"But, Edmund dear, California, they say, is no place for a woman."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No place for a woman! and why so, my darling? and who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:are they that say so?  It is just the place for a woman who wants to be a <HI REND="italics">woman</HI>
181.sgm:, and not a nonentity, as so many women try to make themselves, and those who talk that stuff are those who have no appreciation of what a <HI REND="italics">woman</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Edmund, you are too severe on all those wives who are now separating from their husbands; many cannot help it, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, dear, I cannot help it, or have much patience, when I hear people estimating the place of women and their duties to society at such a low standard.  Of course, as you say, there is many a poor wife left at home to-day that cannot help it, and who would go but for this ridiculous idea so prevalent, that California is no place for women.  I say it is just the place for women.  Without them the most refined men will turn to savages, and even brutes, and become ungovernable.  The husband who can take his wife to California and does not, because he fears he cannot protect her, is a coward, unworthy of the love of woman, and is, moreover, ignorant of the high, chivalrous character of the race to which he belongs."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Darling," said Ada, "I appreciate all you say, and agree with you, too, and if I found you could not be contented without going to California I would joyfully step out by your side, and, with you, face all the dangers of such a home, for I confess this fever, or whatever it is, has partly caught myself, but the fear of exposing our little ones holds me back, and, if it were not for this, I would go with you, my husband, to the ends of the earth rather than separate myself from you for even so short a period.  But even as to the children, you have the right to be the judge, and your wife will not falter if you decide against her judgment."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ada, my darling, brave wife, whatever may be my abstract rights as the husband, this is a matter in which we should both agree, and one in which I should not be justified in following my single judgment when it is opposed to yours.  So, my darling, I will do nothing that you are not satisfied with.  I long to go.  I am like a bird in a cage, but I cannot make up my mind to separate from you and my darling little ones."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"And I," said Ada, "cannot bear to detain you or separate from you, so I think I will go.  But let us talk with our parents about it.  What does Alfred think of it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"He, like myself, is terribly opposed to married people separating, on any pretence, for so long a time as even for one year, and therefore favors your going with me, if I do go."  Then Edmund arose, and kissed his wife, saying: "I want you to think of the matter, and talk with your father and mother, and we will come to some final decision as soon as possible, one way or the other."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This Ada promised to do.  When she saw her parents she found them utterly opposed to either of them going to California.  Mrs. Morehouse stormed in anger at the idea.  Ada spoke warmly in its favor, but made no impression on her parents.  Mr. Morehouse finally said that if Edmund decided to go, he was in favor of Ada's going with him.  This the mother declared would be her own death, and that, if Edmund went, he should go alone.  Each was so decided in his own views in this respect that Ada saw that it was impossible for her parents to agree.  It was the first time in all their married life that they so entirely disagreed and each remained so unyielding.  They both agreed, however, in being opposed to either Edmund or Ada going.  So matters stood when Ada left to meet Edmund at dinner.  She found Alfred and Alice with Edmund, on her return home.  That evening the whole matter was discussed over and over.  At length Alice said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I see how you and Ada both feel.  Edmund, you do not want to go if Ada is not to go with you, and she fears to take the children, and is loth to give such great pain to her dear mother, who has been such a loving, good mother to her all her life, and yet it is an agony to her to keep you at home when your own judgment says `Go,' or to separate from you and let you go alone.  As the matter looks to me, Edmund, I think you must let Ada decide the whole matter for herself.  I know she will not like to do this, and that it will be most painful to her, but I see no escape from it, taking all the circumstances into consideration; but I think you must both adopt this idea, and act upon it without hesitation."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The only objection I have to what you say, Alice," said Edmund, "is that it looks ungenerous to darling Ada to throw such a responsibility on her."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>As poor Ada listened, tears ran down her cheeks, but, wiping them away, she said, in a firm voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, darling husband, I will take the responsibility and decide for us both.  It is the only way I see to solve the difficulty.  I will see dear mother, and do my best to get her consent, and if I do, I will go with you.  But if she will not yield, let us take it for the best, and then, darling, why, I will let you go without me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And, in spite of all her efforts, she was again in tears.  But Edmund caressed her, and she soon recovered herself.  The next day Ada had a private interview with her father, which resulted in his promising to do all in his power to get her mother's consent to her going with Edmund.  In the conversation which ensued between Mr. and Mrs. Morehouse, Mrs. Morehouse exclaimed: "I am perfectly astonished, Willard, to hear you talk in this way.  Only think, after all the pains we took to educate and give Ada the advantage of acquiring every accomplishment to make her an ornament to society, for which she is so well fitted and in which she is so much admired, that you should now advocate her burying herself in that horrid California, that no one knows anything about, and that will be overrun with horrid, rough characters.  Why, no virtuous woman would be safe there, and, if Edmund takes Ada there, he will be murdered in trying to defend her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My dear Sarah, your feelings on this occasion entirely cloud your usually clear judgment.  In the first place, we educated Ada not to set herself up for a show; not simply to please what is termed "society" among the heartless, worldly fashionables.  No, wife; our object was to fit her to be the bright, accomplished and capable mistress of an American household, if it should be God's will to call her to that position, as it has been, and under any circumstances to be an educated, refined lady, who would ever bring sunshine and happiness to those around her, let her condition in life be what it might.  The fruit of a refined education, viewed rightly, is as potent for happiness to its possessor on the banks of the far-off Sacramento or San Joaquin as it is here in Newark, or even in the city of New York; and as to being in danger in California, in my experience in my profession I have seen enough to know that the eyes of a virtuous woman are more powerful as a defence of her person than the revolver and the bowie-knife of the strongest man are to him.  Before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Then Mr. Morehouse walked over to where his wife was weeping bitterly, and, kissing her affectionately, he left the room.  Some days passed after this conversation, but Mrs. Morehouse remained immovable, and the result was that Edmund left for California without wife or children.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>FIRST LETTER FROM EDMUND--MRS. BUCKET.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Allen &amp; Roman took a young man into partnership in their business, of the name of Wheeler, and now the firm in San Francisco was to be "Allen, Wheeler &amp; Co.," and Wheeler was to accompany Edmund to California.  They took a handsome stock of goods with them, and, if successful, Alfred Roman was to close the Newark house and take an office in New York, to attend solely to the purchasing of supplies for his partners in San Francisco.  Robert Morehouse, just returned from college, was to live with his sister Ada, and she was to remain in her own house until she should hear from Edmund.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The parting day came, and, as may be supposed, was as sad as sad could be to them both; but the wild dreams of California gave them both feverish strength to endure what, a year before, they could not have imagined they would have voluntarily submitted to--a separation for so long a time and for such a journey.  It was nearly two months before Ada got her first letter from Edmund.  She tore it open, trembling all over, while tears ran down her cheeks.  Glancing through it, she saw he was well; then she dropped on her knees, bowed her head and thanked the Giver of all good most fervently.  Edmund wrote in high spirits of the business prospects in California, and told her many laughable incidents of the journey and the place.  Then the last page was wholly devoted to her and the children, and, as she reads it, she is interrupted by her tears and sobs.  Take the letter as a whole, however, it is most consoling and satisfactory, and calculated to make her feel much happier than she had been at any time since it was determined that Edmund should go to California.  Now everything goes on smoothly.  Every mail brings long letters from Edmund to Ada and the firm.  His orders for more goods, and his shipments of gold-dust are much larger than their most sanguine expectations had hoped for.  Alfred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>When Edmund was away about six months he wrote Ada a letter, expressing more than usual lonesomeness and homesickness.  The letter ran on to say:</P>
181.sgm:<P>After Ada received this letter she again besought her mother to give her consent, but Mrs. Morehouse seemed unable to yield, and Ada could not summon courage to go without her mother's approbation.  So passed three months more, until one day Mrs. Morehouse was surprised by a call from a Mrs. Dr. Bucket.</P>
181.sgm:<P>This Mrs. Bucket was the wife of a Doctor who had lived in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:Newark for a number of years.  Shortly after the breaking out of the California excitement, the Doctor left for San Francisco, and took his wife with him.  In Newark, Dr. Bucket was considered a good physician, and was much respected by all who knew him.  The wife was in many respects a good sort of a person, but was talkative and fussy, and had a great desire to pry into and understand other people's business.  This propensity often lost the Doctor valuable patients.  Most people, however, paid little attention to this propensity of Mrs. Bucket, and ascribed it to the fact that she had never been blessed with children.  Be this as it may, it was sometimes very offensive.  Her sudden appearance in Newark surprised all her old acquaintances, and, as soon as her presence was known, she became the center of attraction for all who had relations and friends in California, or who were thinking of going there.  She was besieged with visitors.  They all found her in high spirits, elegantly dressed and altogether the picture of happiness.  She gave a glowing description of the business prospects of San Francisco, and, in fact, of all California.  No one, she said, who had a particle of energy could fail in California.  But when she was surrounded by lady visitors only, she had a habit, at the end of her glowing description and praise of California, of throwing up her hands and exclaiming, in a sort of tragic horror: "But oh, my dear friends, the men out there are horribly wicked in one respect--yes, in one respect, ladies."  Then, lowering her eyes as she looked over her gold specs, and letting down her voice, she would add in a confidential sort of tone: "They are all untrue to their wives left at home.  Yes; as horrible as it may seem, my dear friends, I tell you but simple truth when I say <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm:<P>On one of these occasions, there was among her auditors a young, bright-eyed, little grass widow, whose faith in her own husband it was impossible to shake, and this sweeping assertion of Mrs. Bucket's only caused her lip to curl with contempt, while she said in a voice suited to her way of feeling: "Did you say <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, my dear friend," said Mrs. Bucket, in a sad sort of a tone of voice, "I did say <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," responded the little widow, who felt spiteful and mischievous, "how about your own husband, while you are away now, Mrs. Bucket?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>This seemed rather to corner her for a moment, but, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>This candid acknowledgment was so absurd that the whole company joined in a hearty laugh at Mrs. Bucket's expense.  This little turn against herself evidently angered Mrs. Bucket very much, and, biting her lip, she looked towards the author of her discomfiture with anything but a pleasant expression of face, but, wishing to pass it off, she resumed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, ladies, you may laugh as you please, but I am speaking for your own good; yes, only for your own good."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As she said this her eyes were again over her glasses on the little widow, with a reproving expression.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And to convince you that I know what I am talking about, I will tell you an instance where I myself, yes, I myself, saved, yes, saved, I can truly say, a whole family."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here she paused, and, in turn, looked at every one of her auditors, but finally rested her gaze on the little grass widow, and, in a voice of mysterious solemnity, continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You must know in the first place that I am remarkable for my detective talents."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"We all knew that before you left here," broke in the little widow.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Without noticing the interruption, Mrs. Bucket continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"So that many people in San Francisco believe me to be some blood relation of the famous detective of my name mentioned in one of Dickens' works; which is ridiculous, as my father's name was Pry."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Was his first name Paul?" interrupted the little widow.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No; it was Jacob," answered Mrs. Bucket, in an impatient, sharp tone, darting an angry look at her tormentor.  "Well, ladies, those talents with which nature has endowed me, I thought, of right belonged to the people of our growing young city, in which my husband and myself have found such a prosperous and happy home; so, when the Doctor was out visiting his patients, and I had nothing else to do, I made it my business, yes, <HI REND="italics">my duty</HI>
181.sgm:, I may say, ladies, to watch my neighbors, and see that they were going all right, and behaving as good Christians and citizens should behave; so, in pursuance of this self-sacrificing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:purpose, as soon as the dear Doctor was out of the house I used to put on my things and take a walk through all the neighboring streets, stopping occasionally, you know, at corner-groceries, butcher-shops, and even at some respectable looking drinking saloons, to make inquiries about one thing or another, and pick up all <HI REND="italics">sorts</HI>
181.sgm: of items of information.  Well, on these excursions I often noticed at a nice house not far from where we lived, an over-dressed creature sitting in the window, always looking out when I passed.  My curiosity, or rather, I should say, my desire to do good was aroused, so I made several inquiries as to the inmates of that residence, and, ladies, I soon got at the truth, <HI REND="italics">and was shocked</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Of course you are, Mrs. Bucket," said the little widow.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, as I was saying, I found it was Mr. Briggs who lived there, and that he was a man of large family; but, ladies, his poor wife and children reside, <HI REND="italics">at this very time</HI>
181.sgm:, you understand, in Cincinnati; so who could this over-dressed creature I had seen in the window be?  Well, I soon found out, and it was just as I feared; the case was as bad as you can imagine, ladies, so I felt it my duty, unpleasant duty, of course, but nevertheless a <HI REND="italics">duty</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Here Mrs. Bucket again bent a meaning glance on the little widow, whose lips, in response, curled contemptuously.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But the moment," continued the narrator, "the poor wife got my letter, which was so circumstantial in details of facts as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:to leave no room for a doubt, for, ladies, I never deal in anything but <HI REND="italics">facts</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Of course not, Mrs. Bucket," said the little widow, with the same contemptuous expression on her lips.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At this interruption Mrs. Bucket turned uneasily in her chair, but continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The poor woman's eyes were opened, and she at once, to use a Western phrase of ours, `pulled up stakes,' and was on her way to California with her five children, in three days after the receipt of my letter.  They arrived all safely.  I had given them the exact location and description of the house where Mr. Briggs lived, so that she had no difficulty in finding it.  On arriving in the city Mrs. Briggs went direct to the office of the Chief of Police, Fallon, and inquired for Captain Casserly of the Police, just as I had recommended her to do.  I recommended her to Captain Casserly, for I am proud to be able to tell you, ladies, that he is a particular friend of mine.  He is a very good sort of gentleman, though I am sorry to add that he is not properly nice in his ideas of this heart-rending evil I am constantly bemoaning in San Francisco.  But he appreciates my detective abilities, and whenever he meets me he asks me for `points' about matters and things in general, as he knows I can give him valuable information, and always reliable.  And, then, I often get many `points' of great interest from him, especially about the conduct of married men."  Here her eyes were again on the little widow.  "But, as I said, not being properly nice himself about such matters, he only laughs and walks off when he sees how shocked I am at what he tells me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Are such consultations common between gentlemen and ladies in San Francisco?" asked the little widow.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At this Mrs. Bucket turned short around and in an angry voice said: "Madam, you should recollect that in my arduous self-sacrificing task of reforming immoral husbands, and restoring the moral wrecks to their often good-for-nothing wives, who have refused to go with them to California, I could properly hold a conversation with a respectable police officer like Captain Casserly, which it would be out of place and offensive to my natural delicacy of feeling, for which I am remarkable, to repeat here to you, ladies."  Then turning away so as to cut off the retort she feared, she went on: "Mrs. Briggs did not find Captain Casserly, so Chief Fallon sent officer Howard with her to the house I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"So, there being no alternative left for her, the over-dressed creature, without one word of remonstrance, did as she was ordered; and Mrs. Briggs walked in and took full possession, with her five children.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"When Mr. Briggs came home for dinner, you may imagine the scene; but the upshot of it was that, after some days, the husband and wife were reconciled, and they are now living a happy family, both most grateful to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said the little widow, as Mrs. Bucket said the last words, with an air of triumph, "if I had been Mrs. Briggs, I would have got Captain Howard to tie a weight to that fellow's neck, and then pitch him off the wharf."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And I would have had the over-dressed creature pitched after him," added another California grass widow.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah, my dear ladies," said Mrs. Bucket, in a deep, sad tone; "your virtuous indignation is just like my own, but consider the children, and you will better understand poor Mrs. Briggs' conduct."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said the little widow, in a sarcastic tone, "Mrs. Bucket, if the Doctor should get well and get out, you know, as you said, before you get back, you can deal with him without the consideration that held poor Mrs. Briggs back.  That will be one consolation you will have, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>A suppressed titter ran through the company, and Mrs. Bucket looked very angry, for the little widow had struck her tenderest point.  Recovering herself, however, she resumed:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh," the poor wife exclaimed, "how foolish I was; I see it all now; it was just like you!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then she kisses him and pets him, to make him forget that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:she had been jealous.  Well, ladies, I am of such a charitable turn of mind that I must believe this man was innocent.  Yes; I <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
181.sgm: believe that he was glad his wife had arrived, and that she was not, as he thought she was, tossing in the storms off Cape Horn, while he was comfortably in bed that night.  Yes, and that his motive was a good one when he told Bill not to let his wife get away from the steamer.  Yes; I must believe his excuse, absurd as it was, about the dress.  But, ladies, I will leave it to you to say whether, if I was like other people in charitable feelings, I could possibly acquit this man of being a terribly wicked hypocrite.  Do not understand me, ladies, as wishing to destroy your <HI REND="italics">amiable, sweet</HI>
181.sgm: confidence in <HI REND="italics">your</HI>
181.sgm: husbands out there in California.  No, no; I admire that, ladies, very much; it is <HI REND="italics">so innocent</HI>
181.sgm: and unsophisticated; but I just wish <HI REND="italics">to hint</HI>
181.sgm: that they will <HI REND="italics">bear watching, as sure as you live</HI>
181.sgm:.  Now, ladies, excuse me, but I must close this interesting interview, for I have this day a very delicate task to perform; it makes me sad to think of it, for it concerns very near and old friends; I cannot even <HI REND="italics">hint</HI>
181.sgm: to you who it refers to, for that would violate my high ideas of the obligation of friends to each other; but I will just tell you that it is another Briggs case, almost precisely, and that the parties concerned have long been residents of this very town of Newark.  No, there is no use in your asking me, ladies, I cannot tell you; no, I will tell <HI REND="italics">no one</HI>
181.sgm:<P>All present at once saw that the parents she must mean were no other than the Morehouses, and all looked at each other with alarmed astonishment.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No," said Mrs. Bucket, arising from her seat, "there is no use, ladies, I cannot give you the smallest hint of whom this case now in my hands refers to; it is a secret sacred with me; so good morning, ladies; I am glad to have met you, for it is really refreshing to meet with ladies so full of child-like confidence in their husbands, and I sincerely hope you will never have cause to repent it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As she ceased speaking her eyes were fixed on the little widow with a look that seemed to mean anything but the wish she had expressed.  After they gained the street, the little widow said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I have a perfect horror of that woman, and I always had; I am sorry I went near her; I do not believe a word of her infamous hints about Mr. Allen, for, of course, she meant him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In these sentiments the ladies seemed to concur, and separated.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>MR. AND MRS. MOREHOUSE AND MRS. BUCKET.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Mrs. Morehouse heard that Mrs. Dr. Bucket was in the parlor, she was perfectly astonished, and hastened to see her.  Reaching out her hand she exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, my dear Mrs. Bucket, I am so glad to see you; I am particularly glad, as it shows me you had the good sense to leave that horrid California; I cannot bear to think of it.  Did you see my son-in-law, Mr. Allen, before leaving?  I hope he has come to his senses, and will soon return also.  Well, allow me to fix a chair near the fire for you, for the day is cold, and I want you to tell me all the news, and all about that horrid country you have left.  Yes, sit down, and make yourself comfortable.  I am so glad you came to see us so soon.  Mr. Morehouse is out, but I can't wait for his return; so, at the risk of your having to tell it all over again, I want you to go on."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bucket took the seat Mrs. Morehouse had placed for her, but seemed to be a little uneasy and fussy in her manner, and commenced by saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, my dear Mrs. Morehouse, I will, in the first place, tell you that I have not left California as you suppose.  I have, in fact, come to make arrangements with an uncle of the Doctor's, who is rich, you know, to supply us with medicines for our drug store in San Francisco, where we are doing a most flourishing business, and making money very fast; and just as soon as these arrangements are completed I return to California without a day of unnecessary delay."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, you surprise me very much, my dear Mrs. Bucket.  Are there any ladies in San Francisco?  I mean respectable ladies."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, yes, Mrs. Morehouse; a great number of highly respectable ladies, and a great many nice, respectable families."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, I heard from a person who had just returned from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I believe Geary did send his wife home on some such excuse, but, if the truth was known, that was a mere excuse, because there is not a word of truth in such a statement; women are more thought of and as safe in San Francisco as they are here in Newark."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Mrs. Morehouse, willing to change the subject,</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You and the Doctor have done well in San Francisco, you say."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, my dear Mrs. Morehouse, exceedingly well; and we are, I feel sure, in a fair way to make a fortune."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am truly glad, Mrs. Bucket, for your good fortune.  How do you spend your time?  What amusements have you out there?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, as to amusements, we have very few; but I contrive to do a great deal of good in my spare time, for there is a great field in that country for well-directed efforts, in the way of helping newcomers and reforming some of those who are there."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I suppose you must be overrun with low characters?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Mrs. Morehouse, no; there is but one crying evil in San Francisco, and that is the conduct of married men who have left their wives here in the East.  Their conduct is absolutely shocking and abominable; and there is no exception, my dear Mrs. Morehouse."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here she lowered her voice to a confidential whisper, and looked hard at Mrs. Morehouse.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No exception, do you say, Mrs. Bucket?" said Mrs. Morehouse, catching her breath.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, my dear Mrs. Morehouse; <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Here Mrs. Morehouse lay back in her chair, and seemed to fear to ask another question.  So Mrs. Bucket went on:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You know, my dear Mrs. Morehouse, that I always had great detective talent--and this has enabled me to detect several gross cases of irregularity in the conduct of married men in San Francisco.  I, of course, do not look into their conduct through idle curiosity--you know me too well to think that--but it gives me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Then Mrs. Bucket paused, while she regarded Mrs. Morehouse with a sad, sorrowful expression of face.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Bucket, do please go on," half gasped Mrs. Morehouse.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, I must go on, and sorry I am for it, my dear friend; but it is my duty to go on, and I am very sensitive to duty; but, in this case, the duty is so painful that I believe I would be a coward, and not perform it, if it were not for the respect, the esteem, the love, I may say, with which I have always regarded both you and Mr. Morehouse."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Bucket, you frighten me with all this preface.  What can you be going to tell me?  Do say at once what it is you have to tell."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My dear Mrs. Morehouse, think how hard it is to me to break to you the matter now in hand; but the harder it is the greater will be my consolation at having done my duty."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Bucket, I can not and will not endure this suspense.  Say out at once what you have to say."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, my dear Mrs. Morehouse, I am sorry to say that the case in hand is another Briggs' case, and that your son-in-law, Edmund F. Allen, is the man."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Impossible!" exclaimed Mrs. Morehouse, rising upon her feet in great excitement.  "If you make that charge, madam, you will have to prove it, or suffer the consequences."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This put a new and unexpected face on the whole matter to Mrs. Bucket.  She turned deadly pale as the thought crossed her mind that, in point of fact, she had no positive proof of the charge against Edmund, although she firmly believed she was speaking the truth.</P>
181.sgm:<P>To get out of the matter, she made up her mind to leave the house in dudgeon, and refuse to say another word on the subject, as though she had been insulted by Mrs. Morehouse.  In pursuance of this idea, she started up and walked towards the door, at the same time saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mrs, Morehouse, I came here with the best intentions.  To give you information that would have enabled you to save your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As she said this, she turned to leave, but there stood Mr. Morehouse in the half-open door, listening in astonishment to her parting words.  He had heard of Mrs. Bucket's return from California, but had not before seen her.  Her words alarmed him, though he could not comprehend them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Mrs. Bucket, what is all this about?  Pray be seated and explain; for from the words I just heard I should judge they concerned us very much."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This was said in a decided, almost authoritative tone, that left no choice to the lady but to take her seat again.  Mrs. Morehouse, willing and, in fact, anxious that her husband should have an opportunity of satisfying himself, remained silent, regarding Mrs. Bucket, however, with a contemptuous look.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Mrs. Bucket, please explain fully what you deem to so much concern the welfare of our daughter's family, and, be assured, that neither Mrs. Morehouse nor myself will ascribe to you anything but good motives, even if you are mistaken in the correctness of the information you give us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am not mistaken, sir," said Mrs. Bucket, in the tone of one injured by an unjust suspicion.  "And I do assure you, sir," she continued, "that nothing but the high respect and esteem I have for your family would have induced me to make the disclosure I have, as there is nothing so revolting to a nature like mine as to be the bearer of unwelcome news.  In fact, I make it a rule to shut my eyes to the follies of the world, so that I may not be forced by a sense of duty to reveal unpleasant truths; but in this case, believing myself bound by the ties of old friendship, to look out for members of your family, I took pains to be fully posted and to make no mistake."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Please proceed, Mrs. Bucket, and explain fully all that relates to us and our daughter's family, and we will receive what you tell us in the proper spirit, I assure you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bucket then threw herself back in her chair and commenced by a general onslaught on the grass widowers of San Francisco, and then went on to say:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Some three months ago, I observed that Mr. Allen purchased a nice cottage on Stockton street, and furnished it beautifully.  Happening to meet him, I asked him if he expected Mrs. Allen to come to California soon.  He said:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"`No,' that she would not consent to join him, and added:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`I will not stand this living alone much longer.'</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I then asked him what he meant to do with his cottage.  To this question he said, laughing:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Oh, you must not ask too many questions, Mrs. Bucket.'</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Yes, it was Mr. Edmund F. Allen.'</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"`Well, then,' said he, `that lady is Mr. Edmund F. Allen's wife.'</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Bucket now saw that both Mr. and Mrs. Morehouse began to show signs of being convinced, and of being in great agony of mind also.  So, as she continued, she assumed a more familiar and friendly tone, in which she wished to show sympathy.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, my dear friends, I was not yet perfectly satisfied; that is, satisfied so that I could speak to you without having a shadow of a doubt, so I watched for a chance to see the colored boy alone.  I was fortunate, for the very next day he came to our drug store for sticking plaster.  The Doctor was out, so I had just the opportunity I wanted.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Who do you want the sticking plaster for, my boy?'  I asked, in a careless voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`For the madam; she wants to put it on her husband's face, where he cut himself, shaving, this morning.'</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Has Mr. Allen been long married?' said I, still in an indifferent tone.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Before I saw him,' said the boy.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Oh!  You have not been long with him, then.'</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`No; the madam hired me.'</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Is the madam very handsome?' said-I.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Oh, yes; very handsome.  She is French.'</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Does she speak English?' said I.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Only a little to Mr. Allen; and he is trying to learn French all the time.'</P>
181.sgm:<P>"This I considered enough, but I have yet one more proof.  In three or four days after I had this conversation with the boy, I met Mr. Allen and made an excuse to talk with him.  He had not the sticking plaster on his face, but I saw plainly where it had been.  Just as I was leaving him, I looked straight in his face and asked him if he understood French.  It was just as I thought, my friends.  He grew scarlet and seemed very much confused, then said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`Why do you ask that question, Mrs. Bucket?  I wish I did understand it.  I have a particular reason for wishing to be fluent in it just now.'</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I now became perfectly satisfied, and thought further investigation more than useless, and in about ten days after that conversation I left California for the Eastern States.  "I will conclude by saying that I am very sorry to be the bearer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>363</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Morehouse now took Mrs. Bucket in hand to cross-question her, bringing all his old practice as a lawyer to his aid in doing so.  She saw his object, and was determined he should not get the least comfort from her answers.  The more he questioned her the more she made Edmund's guilt appear, until, at length, she declared that his living, as she intimated, was notorious in San Francisco.  Mrs. Bucket now rose from her seat to bid Mr. and Mrs. Morehouse good afternoon.  Mrs. Morehouse either did not see her motions, or pretended not to do so, and abruptly left the room.  Mr. Morehouse politely showed her out, and bade her good afternoon in as friendly a tone as he could command.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When he returned to the parlor, he found his wife weeping bitterly; and, in great grief, she exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Willard!  Who could have thought that Edmund Allen would have turned out such a scamp?  I thought he loved Ada as he did his life, and now he dishonors her and his children.  What will our darling child do when she hears of it?  Do say, Willard, if you found anything in that horrid woman's story to make you doubt that she told the truth, for it is too horrid to believe."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Morehouse continued to pace up and down the parlor for some minutes in evident agitation.  He then said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I believe that woman thinks she is telling the truth, and, I must say, I fear she is doing so.  As you say, Sarah, it is truly terrible to think how our poor Ada will feel when she hears it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, then," said Mrs. Morehouse, sitting up erect, "if it is true, there is nothing for her to do but to sue for a divorce and let him and his French lady go."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Morehouse stopped walking and threw himself into a chair.  Then, in a sorrowful tone, addressed his wife:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Sarah, we have been in fault ourselves in this matter.  Edmund would have taken his wife with him, but for us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Willard!  It was not you who held her back.  You are not in fault."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, my dear wife, what you did, we both did.  I ask not to escape, for I could have got your consent, had I sued for it properly; but, Sarah, we are both in fault, and the word `divorce' must never come from either of us.  We have no right, under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>364</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, my darling husband, it shall be as you say.  You are always generous to me, more so than I deserve.  I was selfish, or I would have let Ada go when her husband wrote for her the last time.  Yes, I was horribly selfish; but I am terribly punished.  Oh, what will Ada do or say?  How can we break it to her?  I could not do it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And here again Mrs. Morehouse burst into tears and sobbing.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That is my duty," said Mr. Morehouse, in a firm and calm voice; "and I will, therefore, undertake it; and then poor Ada will want me near her when she receives the shock.  Do not give way to such grief, wife, but trust that God will give her strength, for you know He says: `The winds are tempered to the shorn lamb.'  She is least in fault, because it was to filial love she yielded when she did not respond to her husband's call.  This will be a comfort to her now, for she did not shrink from the duty of a wife through any selfish desire of ease."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"When do you go to the poor child, Willard?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"This evening, wife--at once, in fact; for the sooner what has to be done is done, the better for us all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Morehouse arose from his seat, and again paced the parlor floor, with his head bent forward, his eyes fixed on the carpet, with a slow measured tread, absorbed in the deepest thought.  His wife did not again disturb him, but continued to weep in silence.  In this way half an hour may have passed, when Mr. Morehouse stopped short in his walk as he passed his wife's chair, stooped and kissed her, and then turned to leave the parlor.  His wife laid her hand gently on his arm, and said, in a low, half-choked voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Tell her I will come in a little while."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear; I will," said Mr. Morehouse, again kissing her.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a moment more the outside door was opened and closed, and Mr. Morehouse was on his way to Ada's house.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE WELCOME LETTER FROM EDMUND.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The California steamer that had brought Mrs. Bucket also brought Ada's usual letter from Edmund; but in this instance the steamer had arrived so late in the evening that Ada had to wait until the next morning for her letter.  Somehow, it never seemed so hard for her to wait for the delivery of letters before, as it did this time.  Alfred Roman wrote her a note to say that the steamer was in, but that he could not get the mail until eight o'clock in the morning, and that he would send her letter to her the moment it came to hand.  After she retired to bed, she could not sleep.  Over and over she read the letter in imagination, and while she did so she would sometimes drop into a half-sleep, and now the letter became an immense sheet before, her, and began to tell her of frightful things--of sickness, of fires, of earthquakes and of personal dangers besetting Edmund--until, starting from her sleep, she would recover her consciousness.  So the long, long night wore away, and when the bright morning light dawned, it found her feverish and worn out with unaccountably anxious thoughts.  The letter promptly came, as Alfred had promised.  She looked at the address.  It was in Edmund's well-known bold hand--"Mrs. Edmund F. Allen, Newark, N.J."  Passionately kissing it, she threw herself into a chair, and, opening it, read as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>MY OWN DARLING WIFE: This is Sunday evening.  I am seated in my little bed-room writing this letter.  Things are more comfortable than they used to be around me.  In fact, to look around this room one would suppose it had your superintendence.  Well, notwithstanding this, I am not at ease, my darling wife.  If you were here, I feel that I would be a better man, as well as a thousand times more happy.  Well, as I have had a sort of an adventure to-day, and not much else of interest to tell you, I will give you an account of it and of all my thoughts and doings this Sabbath day.  I feel like doing this as I am uncommonly lonesome--sad and disturbed in my feelings the whole day.  Why this is so I cannot tell; but I suppose every one is subject to such turns.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>After our breakfast I walked to the Catholic church, on Vallejo street.  This church has just been finished, and is quite a church building for San Francisco.  It is a plain wooden structure, not one ornament of any description on it; but it is such an improvement on the little, old dwelling-house where the Catholics heretofore had service, that it looks quite grand.  It is about such a building as would be considered a good barn with you in "the States," as they say here.  It, however, cost a large sum of money, lumber being worth over two hundred dollars per thousand feet in this town just now.  The Catholics here being few, and some of them not very zealous, it was found very hard to raise the necessary funds to complete this church.  However, just at the right time, a Mr. John Sullivan arrived from the mines with gold dust enough, it is said, to sink a reasonably large ship, and, with a liberality worthy of his good fortune in the mines, stepped forward and advanced enough of money to complete the building; so that now Father Langloir, a good little Canadian priest, has the satisfaction of having the best church building, and much the largest congregation, of any denomination in San Francisco, under his charge.</P>
181.sgm:<P>To-day a Father Coyle, a priest who arrived here a few months ago, preached, as he often does, a rather peculiar, but a most eloquent sermon.  I none part of it he touched all our hearts by alluding, in the most beautiful and feeling language, to our loved friends in their distant homes.  To be worthy of these dear friends, to be worthy of being citizens of this glorious nation of ours, were some of the motives he urged upon us for leading a spotless life here in San Francisco, where so many give themselves up to excesses.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"We must not forget," he said, "that we were sent here, plainly by God Himself, as pioneers in the great work of laying the foundation of the huge pillar upon which the American Temple of Liberty is to rest here, on the Pacific Coast.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," he continued, while his eyes flashed with enthusiasm, "we are a chosen band, a chosen people, to do this work.  The day will come when others will be chosen and sent north, and yet others far away to the south, to do the same kind of work we are doing here in California; for this great Temple of Liberty will not be beautiful in its architectural construction, nor in its enduring strength, while it rests on the shores of only the Atlantic and Pacific for support.  No; it must also have a base resting close to the frozen oceans of the north, and another on the sunny lands of the Isthmus of Panama.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then will the unnatural foreign rule have vanished from the north, and puerile attempts at government from the south, leaving the whole continent the undisputed `land of the free and the home of the brave.'  Then will the monarchs and tyrannical governments of the earth stand astonished; for the great center-piece or mighty dome of this American Temple will rise, towering up in beauty, magnificence and power; and upon it shall stand the Goddess of Liberty, plainly in sight to the ends of the earth, holding aloft in one hand that civilizer of nations, the Cross, and in the other our national emblem, the Starry Banner.  No clouds will dare obscure this beautiful vision.  Sunlight will ever gild it, and reflect from it such warm, genial rays that they shall everywhere be felt, causing to fructify and warm <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Yes, you men, California pioneers, here before me, recollect that God has given you a glorious task.  He has honored you in this choice; honor Him in your lives.  I am proud, too, that there are so many of your wives and sisters here with you.  They have an angel's part in this great work.  They cheer and encourage you in all that is good and virtuous.  They stand ready with cup in hand to refresh you when you thirst, and when you are tired and weary, they, with gentle hands, will wipe the sweat from your brow.  Yes, California will owe these pioneer women more than can ever be repaid; for, in heroic courage and self-sacrificing devotion to their duties, as wives, sisters and mothers, they are unsurpassed by any women in the history of our country.  Californians, be proud of them, and ever guard their honor with a thousand times more jealous care than you would your own lives."</P>
181.sgm:<P>At length my eyes grew heavy, and as I yielded to the inclination to sleep I found myself repeating over and over Dickens' sick child's question, "What are the wild waves saying?"  Now the landscape before me seemed to change.  It grew dark and stormy; far away over the sea, I could see the opposite shore, and there I saw you standing, dressed just as you were the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>All I had gone through in this sleep was so vividly before me, and so seeming real, that it was some minutes before I could make myself believe that I was the victim of a nightmare.  I found that while struggling in the dream I had torn up a bunch of California lupins, that grew near where I was lying, and in some way I cut one of my temples slightly.  I think I never suffered as much in the same space of time, either awake or asleep, in all my life before.  The choking sensation in my throat continued for an hour.  You may judge that I had enough of the ocean for one day.  A quick, long walk home was just what I needed to work off the effects of this frightful dream, and yet it did not wholly do so.  What continued to disturb me most, was the circumstance of that dream of yours coming to my imagination in this frightful way, for it never had come to my thoughts before since the night you dreamed it.  However, as you know, I do not lay much stress on dreams, and after a good night's rest and to-morrow's rushing work, I shall have forgotten it, and my sea-side nightmare, which was my Sunday's adventures, I told you I would relate.</P>
181.sgm:<P>With a thousand and a thousand kisses, and hugs for each of my darling little ones, and five times as many for your own dear self--</P>
181.sgm:<P>I remain, as always,</P>
181.sgm:<P>Your loving husband,</P>
181.sgm:<P>EDMUND F. ALLEN.</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE WIFE'S ANXIETY--DEPARTURE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Ada finished reading her husband's letter, she let it drop, with one hand holding it, into her lap, while she supported her head with the other hand, as her elbow rested on the arm of her easy chair.  She seemed buried in thought for a long time.  Speaking audibly to herself, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That dream; how strange that it should have come to him in that horrid way!  What can it mean?  Nothing, I suppose; yet how very strange.  Who is living with him?  Who takes care of his room, which he says was so comfortable?  Strange he does not tell me.  After " <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
181.sgm: breakfast," he says.  Who took breakfast with him?  Strange he does not tell me!  Who can Madam Defray be?  He must have some one living with him in that cottage he bought.  Who can it be?  Why does he not tell me?  Why does he talk of being a better man if I were with him?  I always thought he was better than I was.  Why was he so troubled in mind?  Pshaw!  I believe I am a little fool, and getting jealous; talking in this sort of a way looks like it.  No, I am not jealous; if I were to get jealous, I believe I would go mad.  That is, if I had cause to be jealous; but dear Edmund should have explained.  It would have been just so pleasant if he had done so.  Not that I care, for I know I am not jealous in the least.  The fact is, I could not be jealous of Edmund; that is, and live; so it is foolish even to think of it.  Why is it that this letter does not seem like all his other letters?  I suppose he was, as he said he was, troubled in mind.  Oh, dear!  I wonder he did not explain.  This letter is a nice, interesting letter, but I wish he had not told me about that horrid dream, and that fiend of a woman Defray.  Oh, yes; I am glad he told it.  I want to know everything about him.  I wish he had told me more.  This is about such a letter as he would write to his sister Alice, or to his mother.  His letters to me were always not of that kind.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>370</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:There was love in every line of them; as I read them I felt as if I were in a dream, listening to sweeter music than ever was on earth.  They were dearer and sweeter, because they were written for me <HI REND="italics">alone</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said she, rising from her seat, laying the letter on the piano, and with both her hands rubbing back her clustering, loose hair from her temples; "I do wish mother had let me go when he bought that cottage and wrote for me.  Yes; there is no use in talking, I <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
181.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Ada now looked pale and troubled.  Her right hand she pressed across her breast, over her heart.  Upon her left she rested her forehead, as she leaned her head forward.  In this position she silently walked up and down the parlor for ten or fifteen minutes.  At length she murmured: "Oh, what is it that makes me so troubled and so unhappy?  I must read his letter again; it must be that I am captious to-day, and that I only fancy this letter restrained and cold, as it were, compared with all his others.  His letters always sounded to me like the joyous song of a bird, and flooded my heart with happiness.  "Yes," she continued, as she now walked over to the piano and took the letter, and again throwing herself into the chair; "let me read it over once more; I must have taken a wrong view of it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now she read it over slowly and carefully.  As she came to his frightful vision on the cliff, she started and turned deadly pale, and, covering her eyes with her hand, let her head drop back and rest for a moment on the back of the chair.  Then, seeming to recover herself, she resumed her reading.  When she concluded, she sat in thought for a moment, then said aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; I will go and see Alice.  She comes nearer to Edmund than any one I know on earth, and I am always happy when I am with her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>She rose, went to the nursery, hugged and kissed the children, telling them that they were papa's kissss and hugs that he sent them in a letter.  Then she gave some general directions to the nurse, telling her that she was going to Mrs. Roman's, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, God! forgive me for all transgressions, and do not let me lose faith in my husband.  Do not let me believe evil of him.  Oh, give my weak heart courage to do what is right in all things.  Oh, show me what I should do, and give me strength to do it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As she left the church, she thought her prayer was heard; for, though yet agitated, she knew not why, she felt perfectly decided as to her future course, and full of resolute courage to meet all the difficulties that might rise up to oppose her.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," she said to herself, as she gained her own door; "the next steamer that leaves for California after the one that leaves the day after to-morrow shall take me; that is settled; I will begin my preparations this very day, just as soon as I eat dinner with the children and Robert.  I will not tell brother Robert, but I will send him, after dinner, for father, as I want to tell him, and get his consent and blessing, and he will get mother's consent I know, when she finds how miserable I am.  I love my darling parents as well, I am sure, as ever child loved before, but I am a wife and a mother, and it is <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Now, if Ada had heard what Edmund had said aloud to himself as he walked over the sand-hills on his way back to San Francisco that Sunday he had the seaside nightmare, it would have explained to her who Madam Defray was, but it might not have lessened her anxiety; and if she had seen the reception he met with at his own cottage that evening, it surely would have made matters worse.  As he strode along, he said aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How strange that Madam Defray should have appeared to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As he entered the gate at his own little cottage, a handsome little French woman throws open the front door, and exclaims, in charming broken English:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"O dear! my heart's all sorry; one dinner all no hot; no in time, Mr.  <HI REND="italics">Allaine</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund shook hands with her cordially, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My dear Madam Bellemere, do not make yourself unhappy; I am so hungry that dinner will taste first-rate, hot or cold."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And so it proved, for Edmund ate most heartily, and then retired to his room to write the letter Ada had just read.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada having taken the resolution to go to California without consulting any of her relatives, and apprehending opposition from nearly all of them, she became excited, and nervous in her whole manner.  At dinner her brother observed it, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, sister Ada, what is the matter with you?  I do believe you have been crying.  Are you well, dear sister?  Mr. Roman told me that brother Edmund was well, and doing well.  Is he not?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, dear Robert, perfectly well; I have been a little excited by my walk to see Alice, and then I have a plan on hand that keeps me a little fussed; I will tell you all about it to-morrow.  I want particularly to see father this evening.  Would you, dear brother, go and ask him to come?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Robert, of course, readily consented, and, on leaving the table, started for his father's house.  On the way Robert met a college friend, who detained him talking, so that he did not get to his father's until after Mr. Morehouse had left on his mission to see Ada.  After Robert left the house, Ada became more and more nervously excited, as she anticipated, in imagination, the coming scene with her father.  All his love for her, as she now looked back to her earliest recollections, manifested as that love was in so many thousand ways, came to her mind.  She could not draw to her mind one selfish word or act of his towards her; not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"She is surely in trouble," said Mr. Morehouse, as he looked on, "and evidently she expects some one.  Can it be that the poor child has heard what I have come to tell her?  Oh! yes; it must be so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He rang the bell, and Ada herself, anticipating who it was, admitted him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Darling father," said she, throwing her arms around his neck, and kissing him on both cheeks, "how kind of you to come so promptly when I sent for you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Sent for me, dear Ada!  Why, I did not know you wanted to see me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! you have not seen Robert, then?  Well, it makes no difference, as you have come."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Does anything trouble you, my child?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear father, something does trouble me; but what, I hardly know myself; but you shall hear all, and then I want you to bless me and approve of the resolution I have taken.  So, darling father, sit down near me on this sofa, and, with your arm around me, listen to me.  Do you recollect, long, long, ago, when I was but fifteen years old, I got into, what appeared to me, a great trouble at school.  My teacher accused me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>As Ada spoke, her eyes were streaming with tears, while yet they were wide open and beaming on her father's face.  With a steady gaze, she went on:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, darling father, you held me in your arms until I had my cry out.  Then you wiped my tears away, and talked to me of my trouble so sweetly, so kindly, that I began to feel happy again.  You advised me, and told me what to do; and I left you, feeling more like a woman grown than the weak child I felt myself when I sought you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, my darling child," said Mr. Morehouse; "I do recollect all that, and every marked passage of your life since your dear mother first laid you in the cradle, to this hour.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, darling father, I have felt all day more like acting little Ada Morehouse of that day, long ago, than I ever did in any day of my life since then.  So, I sent for you to bear my weakness, and then strengthen and encourage me with your counsel and advice."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As she stopped speaking she threw her arm around his neck, and, dropping her head on his shoulder, gave way to a fit of unrestrained weeping.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Her father gently supported her on his arm for a few minutes without speaking, while sympathetic tears that he could not suppress stole down his face.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ada, my child, do not give way too much, and tell me all you have heard that so troubles you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Heard, father?  I have heard nothing."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Heard nothing?" repeated her father, in great surprise.  "What, then, darling child, has made you so unhappy?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear father, when I tell you, I fear you will not have patience with me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do not fear that, my dear child; but tell me all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, father, an undefined anxiety and fear has troubled me for some days, and Edmund's letter of to-day has terribly increased it.  I tried, but I could not shake off this feeling; so I went to church to-day, and I prayed to <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: to guide me to do <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>375</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Her father's arms pressed her close to him, as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My sweet, darling child, depend on it, you will have the blessing and consent of both your parents to carry out your resolution; and I promise you that neither your mother nor myself will say one word against your going, if, after discussion, you still desire to go."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then," said Ada, with a look of triumph, "the question is settled, without a word of discussion, dear father; for go I surely will."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This put the matter in a different position from anything Mr. Morehouse had anticipated.  For a moment he thought to himself--"Would it not be a good idea to let Ada go to California in ignorance of all Mrs. Bucket had said of Edmund's way of life, writing by to-morrow's mail that she was coming?"  But such a thought was hardly entertained when it was rejected as unworthy of the consideration of an honorable man.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ada, dear, have you any objection to tell me what was in your husband's letter, that has so disturbed you, or have you any objection that I should read it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"None whatever, dear father; and I will explain anything to you which you do not understand from the letter itself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Saying this, Ada handed him the letter, and waited patiently for him to read it through.  As he finished, he turned to Ada, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Tell me, dear, what is in that letter that troubles you?  Most wives would not only be satisfied with it, but be proud of it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, dear father," said Ada, hesitatingly; "I suppose so; but it is not like his other letters--it looks to me restrained, which shows to me that he must be in trouble."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Did he tell you what family or whom he was living with in that cottage, Ada?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No," said Ada, with a half shudder; "he did not."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Who is this Madam Defray, Ada?"</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>376</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"I never heard of her before," said Ada, again shuddering; "but," she continued, "I think Edmund was just out of spirits, and that horrid nightmare he had on the bluff made him write me an unsatisfactory letter; but his having that vision, or dream, was so strange.  It was the same I had the very first night we heard of gold in California.  It is foolish, I know, but I cannot get it out of my head that it is a call for me to go to California and save Edmund from some terrible trouble or danger."  As Ada said this, her lips quivered with emotion.  Mr. Morehouse saw that the time was come when she must hear all Mrs. Bucket had told.  So, assuming a calm, self-possessed manner and voice, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Darling Ada, you were always a brave little woman, as child, girl and woman.  I want you now to prepare yourself to hear what is disagreeable to hear, and mind there may be a possibility that it is all untrue."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As her father spoke, Ada turned deadly pale, sat upright and fixed her large eyes on his face, but said not a word.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Did you hear," continued her father. "that Mrs. Dr. Bucket has returned from California?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No," said Ada, in a husky, choked voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Mr. Morehouse, now talking fast, as if he would save his child from further useless suspense, "she has come, and has been to see your mother and myself.  She gives a terrible picture of the morals of the married men out there who are separated from their wives, and includes Edmund, by name, in those accusations."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a moment Ada sprang from her chair, her eyes lit up with a wild, flashing light her father had never seen there before.  As she stood erect before him, she folded her arms across her breast, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Father, you say Mrs. Bucket came to see you, and distinctly charged my husband, Edmund Allen, with leading a shameless, immoral life in San Francisco?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That, my child, was the substance of what she said, though in a different way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And you and mother believed her, father; did you?" said Ada, with emphasis on every word, as she slowly spoke them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I cannot say I fully did, though I will do Mrs. Bucket the justice to say that I think she herself believed what she told us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Father, dear father," said Ada, in the same measured tone; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>377</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"You will not go then, my child, until you hear from San Francisco?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Will not go, father, you say?  Will not go!"  Ada repeated again, still in the same voice and manner, and yet standing in front of her father with her arms folded.  "Will not go, father!  The steamer that leaves New York the day after to-morrow will bear Ada Allen and her two children on board for San Francisco!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"So soon! my child," said her father.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, father; not one day, not one hour, that I can help, will my husband rest under a charge against his honor and character, and that threatens disgrace to his children.  No; if I hesitate for a moment I would be <HI REND="italics">just no wife at all</HI>
181.sgm:.  Now, I understand plainly that I was forewarned, for I see far away in California my husband in danger, and my children too, far more so than when I saw them in my dream on the broken ice.  No, father, a few minutes ago I was nothing but a weeping child in trouble, leaning on your breast for support and consolation; now all that is past; what I have just heard has brought me to myself; from this moment I am done with tears; none shall dim my eyes until I meet Edmund; then I will weep in my great joy, or--or--I will just die!  I am no weak, shrinking child, palmed off on the world for a woman worthy of the exalted position of wife and mother.  No, father, your honorable blood runs in my veins; your teaching is here in my heart; I am the wife of a man whose honor and truth I cannot doubt, whatever others may do.  I know every aspiration, every impulse of his heart.  They were all of the highest and noblest character, founded on deep religious convictions.  Let no one dare to tell me that <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: will not guard the steps of such a man in the worst of temptations!  No, the charges are false, and I will fly to my husband, and show to all my faith in his truth, and, to him, the love and devotion I owe him as a true and faithful wife.  Father, dear father," Ada continued, while her voice sank lower and trembled with emotion; "if there were anything wrong out there, can I say that I have been wholly without blame?  Did I act the part I should have done, as a wife worthy of a good and true husband, when I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>378</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"My darling child," said Mr. Morehouse, while a shadow of deep pain passed over his fine face; "it was I who was to blame for that.  Forgive me, darling Ada; it was, perhaps, the only selfish act of my life toward you; but, oh, Ada, you do not know how hard it was for me to part with you for such a far off place!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada leaned forward, and, throwing her arms around her father's neck, passionately kissed him; then, in almost a whisper, close to his ear, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You must not blame yourself for loving your Ada too much."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nor you, my sweet child, for loving your parents too well," responded her father.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Promise me, dear father, that you will try to bear up against this sudden parting, and get darling mother to do so too.  Let us look forward with cheerful hearts, and hope for the best.  Oh," continued Ada, laying her hand on her heart, "something <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"God grant it, my darling child.  Consider all settled now as you wish it.  I will go at once and bring your dear mother to you; I have already her consent to anything that you might propose."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, rising from his seat, he took Ada's hand, and, pausing for a moment as if struggling to command his voice, he said, in a tone of deep feeling:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"God bless you, my child!  I am prouder of you this moment than I ever was in my life, and I wish to assure you that I will enjoy thinking of you out there in California, fulfilling the noble duties of your position, a thousand times more than I could if you were here near me, shrinking from them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The only answer Ada made was to embrace him, and, while gently wiping away the tears that stole down his cheeks, she kissed him, and whispered:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No tears now, dear father; we have work to do, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Mr. Morehouse reached home, he found his wife anxiously waiting for him, and miserable enough.  He soon explained everything to her, and she found great relief in knowing the worst and in being called on for help, and none could do it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>379</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Morehouse, with a great effort, overcame her feelings, and said with solemnity: "God bless you, my darling child."  Then, assuming a cheerful tone, she continued: "I will sleep with you to-night, darling, so as to be ready to go to work on your preparations very early in the morning."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That will be nice, dear mother," said Ada in the most cheerful voice, as she again kissed her.</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was getting late, and it was agreed that Mr. Morehouse should go home, and, before coming in the morning, he should call on Alfred and Alice Roman, and bring them with him to Ada's.  But, on leaving the house, Mr. Morehouse turned his steps toward the Romans'.  He preferred to go and see them then, though so late, as he could not rest for hours yet, if he went home, he was so feverish from all he had gone through that afternoon.  He found the Romans yet up, though on the point of retiring.</P>
181.sgm:<P>They were at first alarmed at his call, and Alfred said: "Why, dear Mr. Morehouse, you look pale and out of sorts.  What can be the matter?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do not feel alarmed, my dear friend; I do feel a little out of sorts, but nothing more."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Let Alice get you some refreshment," said Alfred, yet looking very uneasy.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do so, if you please; it will do me good, I believe.  I have some business of a serious character to talk of with you, but, as I am tired, I believe I will accept your offer."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a very few minutes Alice had refreshments on the table, and Mr. Morehouse ate with a good appetite, and helped himself to wine a second time.  As he turned from the table, he said: "Thank you, my dear Mrs. Roman.  That has done me good, and I believe I could not have told you what I have to tell, but for the strength it has given me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The husband and wife looked at each other with an expression of great anxiety, but waited for their visitor's pleasure, without speaking.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Morehouse now proceeded by relating Mrs. Bucket's call <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>380</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Alfred said, while circumstances and the woman's testimony gave color to the charge, "Yet," said he, "I will stake my life on the proposition that it is false."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As to Alice, whose attachment to her brother amounted to almost worship, she had no patience with the charge, or with those who made it.  She wept bitterly, saying over and over: "Poor, dear, darling Ada, what can I do for you?  Noble, generous, confiding angel!  As brave as you are true to your husband."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then she would exclaim: "Oh, Edmund, you won an angel for a wife, and may God grant that my firm belief will be justified, that you are worthy of her."  Then they talked and discussed the matter until the night was far spent.  Then Alfred urged Mr. Morehouse to accept a bed from them, as it was so late.  Mr. Morehouse assented, and, as he did so, expressed himself as much easier in mind since their evening's discussion and exchange of views.  This was an anxious, restless night for them all, and, as for Alice, she never closed her eyes.  After breakfast Mr. Morehouse went home, while Alfred and Alice went directly to Ada's.  On the way, Alfred often said: "Now, dear wife, recollect that for poor Ada's sake you must overcome your sad feelings, and not give way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will try, my dear husband; oh, I will try hard, for Mr. Morehouse told me of Ada's brave resolution, `never to shed a tear until she shed ones of joy on meeting Edmund all true and good as he left her,' so I must not be the cause of her breaking her noble resolution."</P>
181.sgm:<P>But, as they drew near the house, Alice became terribly excited and nervous, induced by loss of rest, as well as by her feelings of deep sympathy for her darling Ada, as she always called her.  This sympathy was but natural, for Ada and Alice were devotedly attached sisters.  They were much the same character of women.  They were both of a high order of intellect.  They were alike unselfish, generous and brave, charming in person and delightful in manners and deportment.  They regarded each other with unbounded admiration, and their love had become almost romantic in the fervor of its character.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Morehouse and Ada had risen early this eventful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>381</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, mother," exclaimed Ada, "that is Alice.  How can I meet her?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Courage, my daughter; courage," said Mrs. Morehouse; "recollect that you have work to do, as you said to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! yes; you are right, darling mother; and thank you for reminding me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a moment more the loving sisters were in each other's arms, but forewarned, as they both had been, they triumphed over the rush of sympathetic thoughts that would otherwise have caused them to give way.  Each longed to tell the other how unshaken their confidence was in Edmund's truth and honor, but neither could trust herself to speak his name.  Their eyes, however, as they met, said plainly what they dare not let their tongues repeat in words.  Mrs. Morehouse's timely call for assistance was a reminder to both, as it was in fact intended; so, without a spoken word, Alice hastily threw off her things, and, placing herself under Mrs. Morehouse's directions, was, like the others, an active worker in Ada's preparations for her long journey.  At six o'clock that afternoon all was declared ready.  About this time Mr. Morehouse appeared, informing them that he had bought tickets for the passage of Ada and the two children to San Francisco, and had secured a stateroom which they were to have all to themselves.  He had seen the Captain, who promised to do all in his power to make Ada comfortable.  He had also procured a letter to the Captain of the steamer on the Pacific <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>382</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>When Mr. Morehouse took Ada aside and explained all this to her, she thanked and kissed him; but, with a confident smile, told him that his precaution about her reception in San Francisco was all unnecessary; "for, dear father," she continued, "I shall find in San Francisco as true and loving a husband as ever woman met."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I cannot help believing so, also, my darling child; yet it is not right to run any risk in such a case as this.  You need use neither money nor letters, if you find all as we hope you will."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The next morning the terrible parting scene came, but all bore up well, and even appeared cheerful.  As they reached the steamer, there was only time for Mr. Morehouse and Alfred to conduct Ada and the children to their stateroom and hastily return to the wharf.  There they found poor Mrs. Morehouse seated in the carriage, with her head resting on Alice's shoulder, in a fit of hysterical weeping and sobbing, as she exclaimed: "My child! my child! oh, my sweet, darling child!  I shall never see her again.  She is gone, yes, gone forever!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Alice now acted the daughter's part, and did and said all she could think of to soothe and console; but Mrs. Morehouse responded: "Oh, you are young, Alice, and will live to see her again, but at my age, how can I hope for such a joy?  Oh, California!  California! why have you come to break the hearts and destroy the sweet, dear homes that were all so happy--oh yes, so happy, until we heard of your gold?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>On the way home Mr. Morehouse joined with Alice in efforts to console the poor mother, but it was days before she recovered her composure, so as to be anything like her former self.</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO--THE PRETTY LITTLE COTTAGE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now, the steamer, with Ada Allen and her two children on board, dashes out to sea, and Ada's face and all her thoughts are turned to San Francisco.  The care of the children, who were sea-sick for the first few days, gave her constant employment, and obliged her, in a measure, to forget her own great anxiety.  The voyage was favorable in all respects, and Ada found herself all safe in San Francisco, on the night you were first introduced to her, my young readers, when we left her and the children, as you will recollect, in a carriage, with Captain George Casserly, just turning out of Washington street into Stockton, when little Alice says: "The man on the corner is choking, he coughs so hard;" and which coughing disappoints Captain Casserly, as it informs him that his message, intended to put Edmund on his guard, did not reach him; and this brings the Captain to the conclusion that he will have to send Mrs. Bucket's over-dressed creature flying from the cottage, at which they are about to stop.  The carriage now stops opposite a neat white cottage, with the pretty little Gothic gate in the front fence, just as described in the paper the Captain has, which Mrs. Bucket wrote for Mrs. Morehouse.  As the carriage stopped, Ada thought her heart stopped too, or that she was, in fact, in some frightful dream.  Little Alice jumped up and cried out: "Oh, Ma, here is Pa's house," and little Willard called out: "Where, Alice?  Oh, yes, I see."  But Ada heard neither.  She had let down the carriage window, and, leaning forward, her eyes were fixed on Captain Casserly, who had jumped from the carriage, and was now pulling the door-bell.  The door opened, and a colored boy of, perhaps, twelve years of age, made his appearance.  Though the Captain spoke intentionally in a very low tone, as he asked, "Is your master in, boy?"  Ada heard the question as if it were spoken with a trumpet in her ear.</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>384</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"No," said the boy; "he is at the theater."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada gasped for breath, but held her listening position without the least motion, as the Captain asked the next question:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is the lady in?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No; she is with him at the theater,"</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Ada heard the answer, she covered her face with her hands, and dropped her head down so as to rest it on the carriage door.  She murmured to herself, while making a desperate struggle to retain her self-control:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I told father I was no weak child; that I was a woman, worthy to be a wife and mother."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, for an instant, her whole thoughts were on <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Thy will, not mine, be done."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Strength, and almost life, seemed to come back to her; for now she raised her head quickly and spoke to Captain Casserly, who, for a minute or two, had stood by the carriage door, apparently perplexed as how to proceed.  The tone of her voice was calm, but almost a whisper:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, there is nothing for it but to go in and wait."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah," said the Captain to himself, "she is of the right spunk; yes, she will go through all right."  Then he answered Ada:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are right, Mrs. Allen; there is nothing for it but to do as you say."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As he said this, he threw open the carriage door, at the same time telling the driver to take down the two trunks and carry them into the cottage.  He now helped Ada and the children to alight, and, observing that Ada was trembling and greatly agitated, he offered her his arm, and, in a kind, almost confidential tone of voice, said: "Now, Mrs. Allen, you must have courage, for the sake of the children, and then it may be that you will find everything all right yet."</P>
181.sgm:<P>By this time the Captain had no idea that "everything was all right," but he had a plan in his head to deceive Ada.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Captain," said Ada; "you are very kind."</P>
181.sgm:<P>They now entered the cottage, and the children ran all over it, to the dismay of the colored boy, who stood gazing at the whole party now taking possession of the house, with his lips wide apart and his eyes all white, they were so wide open, but uttering not a word.  After the trunks and all the traps were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>385</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>She made no reply but simply "Thank you," with emphasis, and the Captain was gone.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Again the children proved a relief to Ada, as they demanded her attention, and so partly saved her from her own thoughts.  After running into every corner of the house, little Willard discovered on the sideboard some bread and butter, and, without ceremony, he and little Alice helped themselves.  After they had eaten all they wanted, little Willard threw himself on a sofa he found in the little back parlor, and fell fast asleep.  Little Alice took her mother's large, warm shawl, and spread it over him; and when she had it fixed, the little nest looked so comfortable she herself slipped under the shawl, and was soon dreaming of ships, steamboats and police captains.  Ada approached, and, though sad and anxious, she smiled when she looked at her darlings in their sweet sleep, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, how sweet!  Could I but lie down by you, my angels, and sleep on, sleep on, forever."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then suddenly seeming to recollect herself, she continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no; what am I talking of?  The charge is false; I know it is; it must be."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then she fixed the shawl more carefully about the children, and, walking towards a door that opened into a bed-room off the back parlor, she looked curiously in.  The room was almost elegantly furnished.  The carpet was a handsome Brussels.  The bureau and wash-stand had marble tops; the mirror was a large, French plate one; the bedstead was of rose-wood; there were two large rocking-chairs, in red plush.  It was, in fact, one of the snuggest and most elegant little bed-rooms that could be imagined.  The colored boy had followed Ada as she went toward the room, with a suspicious sort of a look.  She turned to him and said, in a low, hesitating voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Who occupies this room?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My master," said the boy, bluntly.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And who else?" said Ada, in a more excited tone.</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>386</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"My mistress," again responded the half-angry boy.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada grew deadly pale, and, turning away, went into the front parlor.  She threw herself into a rocking-chair near the fire that burned cheerfully in that room; she clasped her hands across her breast, while she let her head rest sideways on the chair.  In this position her face was turned towards the parlor door that opened into the hall.  Her eyes were fixed on this open doorway with an intensity of expression not to be described.  Just then her attentive ear detects the sound of a footstep; it is yet on the street, but the blood rushes quickly back on her heart; she hears it now at the gateway; it is <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
181.sgm:, every nerve of her system proclaiming it to her; she hears the pass-key in the doorlock; her eyes grow dim, but again she struggles and prays to <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>FROM THE THEATER--THE JOYFUL MEETING.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Captain Casserly left Ada, his plan about the matter was to watch for Edmund's return with the lady from the theater, and tell them of the reception they were likely to meet with, and in this way "help Allen out of the scrape," as he said.  The night was cold and raw, and the Captain, moreover, felt a little extra liberal, as he had Ada's three twenties in his pocket, so he invited the driver of the carriage to go with him to a saloon near at hand, in Washington street, and have a hot whisky punch.  The driver, of course, accepted, and, fastening his horses near the corner of the street, accompanied the Captain, declaring that it was "just in his hand, for he was so very cold."  While they were seated in the saloon enjoying themselves, time passed quickly, so that the Captain was surprised when he looked at his watch to find how late it was.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why," he exclaimed, "the theater is out; I must be off.  You stay at the corner here until I see you again."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He walked rapidly in the direction of the cottage.  As he drew near, he saw a gentleman and lady ahead of him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah," said he, "I am just in time."  And, quickening his pace, he overtook them as they were passing through the little cottage gate.  The gentleman had just taken out the night pass-key from his pocket, and was reaching out to put it in the lock, when he felt the Captain's hand on his shoulder, who said, as he pressed his hand hard:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Allen, before you go in let me speak to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The escort of the lady turned quickly round in astonishment, saying, in broken English:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">I</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Bellemere! is this <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">this</HI>
181.sgm: Madam Bellemere with you! and you have been to the theater! and you live here with Mr. Allen!" said Captain Casserly, in a quick, excited tone, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>388</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"I see it, I see it all now."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Certain!  Certain</HI>
181.sgm:!" vociferated the little Frenchman; "Mr. Allaine <HI REND="italics">one very good man; one very generous man</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Just as the Captain was about to ask another question, they were all startled by a loud, excited cry in the cottage.  Captain Casserly snatched the night key from the hand of the Frenchman, and all three made a rush for the door.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Ada, as we have described, stood erect in the little front parlor of the cottage, unable to move or speak, the key she heard in the front door did its work, and Edmund, as she knew it was, entered.  But he stopped in the hall to take off his overcoat and change his boots.  The colored boy ran towards him in excitement, but before he had time to speak, Edmund asked:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is the Madam in?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>He asked this question while he was trying to get off a tight boot.  The boy's answer was:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There is a lady in the parlor, sir."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Edmund did not notice that the boy said <HI REND="italics">a</HI>
181.sgm: lady; he thought he said <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Here, boy, put your foot on the toe of this boot until I pull it off.  Oh, is that the best you can do?  Just get out my way; I will manage it myself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, as Edmund worked on with the boots, he spoke aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Madam Bellemere, pity me.  I have not heard a word by this steamer from my darling wife.  I have been down there at the postoffice standing for over three hours, in the cold and mud, waiting for my turn, expecting to be repaid by a letter from my beloved wife, but not a line did I get; and what is strange, I did not hear either from my partners.  All I got was some invoices of goods and a line from my brother-in-law's clerk.  What I fear is, that my precious wife is sick and could not write, and that all the others are afraid to write and tell me of it.  Yes, she must be sick, if the letters are not lost; that is my only hope, that the letters are lost.  There is <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
181.sgm: thing I am determined on; this separation <HI REND="italics">must end</HI>
181.sgm:.  I <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
181.sgm: not, I <HI REND="italics">cannot</HI>
181.sgm: endure it any longer.  I will go home by the next steamer.  Madam, where is Monsieur, your husband?  I thought you went to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Then, as he hung up his hat, he bent his head forward as if in deep thought, and continued to speak, in a lower voice, as if for himself alone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My sweet, darling Ada!  If you could see my heart to-night, and see how sorry and lonesome it is, you would fly to me if you had to come over that horrid field of floating ice we both saw in our dreams."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As he pronounced the last word, he was inside the parlor door, and, raising his head, he found himself face to face with Ada.  Her eyes were on his with a piercing, searching light, but every lineament of his features, every expression of his countenance, told only of truth, purity and honor, dispelling every lingering shadow of doubt and flooding her heart with love and devotion.  The spell was broken, and, with a loud cry of joy, they flew into each other's arms.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The outside door is thrown open, and Captain Casserly, Monsieur and Madam Bellemere stand looking on, as Edmund takes the now fainting form of his wife to the sofa, where he sits back, supporting her in his arms.  Captain Casserly remained perfectly composed; he was evidently satisfied with the turn matters had taken.  Madam Bellemere seemed bewildered by the whole scene, until the Captain brought her to herself by telling her what to do for Ada.  Then she was active and all attention.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Color and life soon began to appear in Ada, and the Captain, observing it, remarked: "A faint from joy is always short."  Then, beckoning to the Bellemeres, he retired with them to the little dining room back of the parlor, explaining to them that the lady whose presence so astonished them was Mr. Allen's wife, just arrived from New York, and that it was just as well to leave her alone with her husband until she had completely recovered.  The Bellemeres were delighted at the discovery that the "beautiful lady," as they called her, was their friend's wife, and expressed their joy in all sorts of extravagant ways.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada opened her eyes, and, seeing that she was supported in Edmund's arms and that they were alone, she reached out and drew down his head until her lips touched his ear, and whispered: "All the horrors, worse, far worse, than the ice-fields we saw in our dream, are passed forever, and I am safe in your arms, darling.  Oh! speak to me, Edmund, and tell me that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"It is all true--it is all reality, my darling, angel wife," said Edmund, as he clasped her fondly and kissed her; "and we must only thank the Almighty Giver of all good for this happiness.  To-morrow you will explain all to me.  I will not ask you a question to-night; but--but--" and his voice trembled and he seemed for a moment to fear to speak.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada started and gazed anxiously in his face, and exclaimed: "But what, darling?  Speak, love; speak!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The children!" was all he said.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, you poor, dear darling," she said, throwing her arms around his neck and kissing his cheek.  "They are both safe asleep on the sofa in the back parlor.  Come and see them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In an instant he was kneeling by the sofa, lost to all around him, kissing the darling children over and over, while they slept on, all unconscious of his passionate caresses.  He kissed their foreheads, their cheeks, their cherry lips; he raised their little hands and well remembered little feet, and pressed them to his lips, while tears stole down his cheeks.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Ada was there, leaning on his shoulder, enjoying the happy sight, smiling through her joyous tears, the first she had shed since she had told her father that "she would not shed another tear until she shed tears of joy by Edmund's side."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then mother and father are both on their knees, leaning over the precious gifts before them, with bowed down heads and hearts overflowing with gratitude.  Their whole thoughts are of God and His goodness.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Edmund arose he recollected the Bellemeres and Captain Casserly.  Calling them, he formally introduced Ada to Monsieur and Madam Bellemere, saying, in a complimentary way:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I assure you, my dear wife, you are under great obligations to Madam.  She has made me so much more comfortable since she took charge of my cottage than I was before."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ada received the little couple in the most charming manner, and thanked them for all their kind care of her dear husband.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said the Madame, "your husband one very kind gentleman to us.  He help us; he do much for us.  Oh, yes, he gave us your own nice room, and take one not so good himself.  We very glad you here to take your own room."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>As she said this, the little Madam pointed to the room Ada had asked the colored boy about, receiving an answer that so frightened her.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Captain Casserly now arose to take his leave, and congratulated both Ada and Edmund in the warmest manner.  Ada gave him her hand, and thanked him cordially for his kind attention to her, in which  Edmund joined her most heartily.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Captain Casserly regained the street, he stopped for a moment, turned round, and, looking at the cottage, said, half aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, if there is a happier house on this side of the Rocky Mountains than that cottage is to-night, I would like to see it; for it would be a plant right straight from Heaven."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, walking on slowly, he continued to talk to himself, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, old Mother Bucket's mischief-making did not turn out so bad after all.  Her `over-dressed creature' turns out to be no other than poor little Madam Bellemere, who is with her husband teaching dancing in this good city, and sings in one of the churches on Sundays for a living."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, after a pause in thought, the Captain continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Those Jersey fellows always boast of the beauty of their girls, and make fun of us New Yorkers about our girls; but they don't palm Mrs. Allen off on me for an <HI REND="italics">average</HI>
181.sgm:.  No, no; to make a fair average she should have two of the ugliest girls in all New Jersey put with her, and then she would be a little <HI REND="italics">over</HI>
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181.sgm:<P>Poor George!  He felt sad at the outlook for himself; but, as usual, was soon over it.  He now stopped at the saloon in Washington street, took some more refreshments with the carriage driver, then he jumped in the carriage and ordered himself driven to his lodging house.  There he dismissed the driver, saying: "Tell Mallot to send the bill for the carriage to Allen, Wheeler &amp; Co., to-morrow, and it will be paid."</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>WAITING FOR LETTERS--MRS. BUCKET AGAIN.</P>
181.sgm:<P>On the arrival in New York of the return steamer from California, after Ada's arrival in San Francisco, there was a happy scene in Newark, worthy of notice.  The day the steamer was expected Edmund's father, mother and Alice were all at Mr. Morehouse's, and were to stay there until Alfred should bring them the California letters.  About noon they were all seated around a lunch table, urging each other to eat, but no one making it a success, so nervously anxious were they all.  From where they sat, they had a view of the walk from the front gate to the house.  Suddenly they start, for the gate spring is heard to close with a bang.  All eyes are on the walk; and there, sure enough, comes Alfred, with a hurried, excited step.  Alice alone seems able to move.  She darted to the window, threw up the sash, but her voice failed her.  Alfred, however, saw her, and understood her; so, taking off his hat, he waved it over his head, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All is right; all is glorious!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The closing of the scene can be imagined, but not described.  After Mr. Morehouse regained composure, he exclaimed, while walking up and down the parlor in a joyous, excited way:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I thought I was not mistaken in that boy of yours, Captain Allen.  I have seldom been mistaken in character in my life.  I thought I understood him perfectly the day he asked me for Ada's hand.  I said to myself that day: `Yes, you are a spar taken from the old mast; you <HI REND="italics">will do</HI>
181.sgm:; and so it proves, Captain Allen.  Yes, so it proves, thank <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>After a little struggle with his feelings, the Captain commanded his voice enough to say:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I thank <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:, too, my friend, that you were not mistaken; but how can we admire that daughter of yours enough?  She has proved herself a priceless treasure; for cool, unfaltering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Mr. Morehouse now laughed heartily at the Captain's enthusiasm, while he slyly wiped away tears of gratitude and joy he did not want any one to see.  Ada's letter to Alice was full and minute, and Alfred read it aloud, being the only one who could command his voice on this occasion.  The next day Mr. Morehouse handed a check to his wife of a thousand dollars, telling her to make as many poor people as possible happy with it; "for," said he, "we must do as we have been done by."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Captain Allen and Alfred followed this good man's example; and gave Alice a thousand more for the same object; so the good news that steamer brought from California made many hearts happy."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The little bright-eyed "California grass widow," who was such an unbeliever in Mrs. Bucket's onslaught on the married men of San Francisco, heard the good news that came to the Morehouses with great satisfaction.  She contrived to throw herself in Mrs. Bucket's way, and, going up to her in an animated and friendly way, took her hand and exclaimed: "My dear Mrs. Bucket, I am so glad to have met you; for I know you will be so delighted to hear that all that scandal about Edmund Allen was utterly false.  It turns out that the `over-dressed creature' you described so exactly, and were so intimately acquainted with, was no other than a highly respectable French lady, of the name of Bellemere.  I believe she has a title, but I don't recollect it now; who, with her husband, yes, with her husband, Mrs. Dr. Bucket, was living with Mr. Allen in his cottage, until such time as his wife could go to California."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Madam," said Mrs. Bucket, with quiet dignity, but looking much disconcerted, "I would have you to understand that I <HI REND="italics">am</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I don't mean to say, exactly, that you said you were acquainted personally, you know, but the lady whom you used to stand out in the wind and rain to watch, after dark, you know.  <HI REND="italics">That lady</HI>
181.sgm:, I say, proves to be a French lady of rank, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Poor Mrs. Bucket turned very pale, but said not a word.  The little widow saw she had her revenge, but, notwithstanding this, she had no mercy; so she continued, by saying in a low, half confidential tone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Did the steamer bring you any news of the Doctor's sprained knee?  Had you not better hurry home?  He may get out, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Without waiting for an answer, the little widow was out of sight.  It is quite certain that Mrs. Bucket called the next day on Mr. Morehouse to beg for mercy, and it may be owing to what he said to her that Mrs. Dr. Bucket was never again heard to allude to the immorality of married men in San Francisco; though she never let an opportunity pass of giving "California grass widows" a cut.  When she returned to San Francisco, Captain Casserly found a decided change in her propensities.  All her detective talents were now directed to catching Chinese chicken thieves.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>A HOUSEKEEPER'S DIFFICULTIES--CONCLUSION.</P>
181.sgm:<P>A word more and our little history concludes.  Edmund and Ada were now the happiest of the happy.  A few days after Ada's arrival they gave a little entertainment to Edmund's friends.  Ada was delighted with this specimen of San Francisco society, and wrote of it enthusiastically to her mother and Alice.  Of course Ada had difficulties to encounter in her housekeeping, but Ada and Edmund laughed over these sometimes ludicrous troubles, and, from the way they both took them, you might imagine they enjoyed what would have put a lady housekeeping in the Eastern States into tears.  Their great trouble was the almost impossibility of getting, or keeping for any length of time, hired girls.  A great many good Irish and German girls came to California in those days to work out in families, hotels and boarding-houses, but they nearly all got married in a very short time after their arrival.  Ada was often deserted by her hired girl with half a day's notice; that she wanted to get married the next day.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mary," she would say, "why did you not let me know this sooner?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I did not know it myself, ma'am, until just before dinner; it was only then he asked me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Try and get him to put it off until next Sunday; that will be such a nice, convenient day to get married, you know, Mary," Ada said, in a half-confidential, coaxing way.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I did, ma'am, but he said he `can't wait.'"</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Edmund came home, Ada told him of this.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, my dear," said he, "there is no help for it; it is the old story; so I will go to the hotels to-morrow, just after the steamer gets in, and I will find some girl just arrived."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear, do so, and I will not engage her unless she agrees to remain unmarried for three months, at least."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"That is an excellent idea, my dear wife; let us try that plan."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The girl was found, and Ada made her bargain.  Seventy-five dollars a month, and to remain unmarried three months.  The girl worked on nicely until Sunday afternoon, when she asked Ada's permission to go and see a girl who had come out with her from the East, and who was living with a family in Saint Ann's Valley.  Of course Ada did not refuse.  The girl went, but never came back.  The next day Edmund went to hunt for her, and found that she had been married the same Sunday evening she left them.  On his return, Ada met him with:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Did you find her, dear?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear, and it is another case of `can't wait.'  The husband says he will pay you any reasonable amount of damages."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So Ada's bargain ended, and they had a hearty laugh over the failure of her plan.  It was well for Ada that her mother had made her a neat and elegant housekeeper, for she never found herself totally dependent on servants in any respect whatever.  Under her directions, the roughest creature, in an emergency, could be made use of for a servant, and everything move smoothly and comfortably.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. and Mrs. Morehouse had promised Ada a visit during the coming Summer, and Alfred had consented that Alice should accompany them.  Business being flourishing, Edmund built a charming, commodious little house, amply large enough to accommodate their expected friends, and furnished it, with the help of Ada's exquisite taste.  The location was high, and commanded a magnificent view of the bay and city.  There was on three sides of the cottage a wide porch or piazza, which added much to the beauty of the building, as well as to the pleasure of the inmates, particularly of the children, who were never tired of racing on it.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When they took possession of this beautiful residence, Ada had a house-warming party.  She gave out sixty invitations, and nearly all who were invited came.  It was enjoyed as a delightful evening by all.  There were twenty-five ladies of intelligence and education in the company, twenty of whom were married, and all were young and mostly very handsome.  The supper was sumptuous; the music was excellent, and dancing was kept up till a late hour.  The first dance of the evening was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Two short years before, and scarce two of the company knew each other, or ever imagined they would see, or care to see, the Pacific coast.  Now all were as familiar as if they had been playmates in childhood, and all felt that they were Californians in heart and soul.  Less than two years before, every one in that company had, in tears and sadness, left home, friends and all the dear surroundings of youth, to face dangers and privations, the extent of which they knew not of.  Now it appeared as if, here in Ada's beautiful parlors, the loved scenes of the past had, as if by the stroke of a fairy's wand, come back to them, and that here in this land of gold they were on the eve of realizing the wildest dreams of fortune that had lured them from their far-off, early homes.  So, with hearts relieved from every doubt or apprehension as to the future, they gave way to-night to gaiety sparkling with wit, and to unreserved merriment and joyous laughter, that rings yet in my ears.  The recollection of that scene is as when sometimes a glorious sunbeam will burst on the path of youth or early manhood, so warm, bright and genial that it seems to reach on, on, through all after life; never wholly obscured by the darkest shadows that fortune may fling in your way.  No; it seems somehow to come to your mind, when clouds are the darkest, and whispers of a home, a haven, beyond them all, where it will again burst out, amid glories unspeakable.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The next day after this party, Ada walked with Edmund out on the porch, as he was leaving for his place of business, and, kissing him good-by, she remained to enjoy the view before her.  The day was beautiful; the immense number of ships, decorated with the flags of all nations, at anchor in the bay, gave it a peculiarly picturesque appearance.  The islands in the bay, the Contra Costa mountains, with the dark top of Mount Diablo in the distance, all came in to heighten the beauty of the scene and charm the beholder.  As Ada looked, her bosom swelled with admiration and enthusiasm, and she could not help exclaiming:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, California! California!  I love you with all my heart.  You shall <HI REND="italics">always</HI>
181.sgm: be my home--yes, and my last resting place.  I will talk for you; I will work for you.  Your friends shall be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>MINNIE WAGNER;</P>
181.sgm:<P>OR,</P>
181.sgm:<P>THE FORGED NOTE.</P>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>A HAPPY BREAKFAST--ARRIVAL IN CALIFORNIA.</P>
181.sgm:<P>My readers will recollect that in our story of Ada Allen, we left our little heroine, Minnie Wagner, tired and weary from the great day's battle she had fought through so successfully and well, fast asleep in her little bed, a beautiful picture as she lay, that filled the mother's heart with maternal joy, that was almost pride.  Yet, why is it, that when Minnie murmurs in her sleep: "Gold!  Walter, gold!  Where is it?"  the mother starts, turns pale, trembles, and now kneels and prays to God, with flowing tears, to guard her child?  The mother could not answer this question, clearly, herself, for it is an undefined feeling of terror; or a sort of presentiment, it may be, of coming danger to her darling, that Minnie's dreaming words have caused to flash to her heart.  It is that one so young, so innocent, so beautiful and childlike, should, in her dreams, be in that pursuit, in which, her mother knows, the strongest men, all the world over, have often and often become corrupt and vicious, and in which even innocence and purity have sometimes sunk to the lowest depths of degradation.  Yes, the mother trembles that Minnie so covets, even in dreams, the possession of that which seldom or ever elevates or prompts us to good and noble actions, and which it is so hard for us to use in a manner pleasing to God.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>402</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>It is true that as she glanced her mind toward it, she caught glimpses of many little rosy walks and nooks, with now and then a little, beauteous turret peeping out in the misty distance, and somehow in this part of her day-dream, her brother's old schoolmate, and now his fast friend, James De Forest, was always sure to make his appearance.  One time he was bringing a rare flower for her garden; then she saw him bringing a new, interesting book for her father and mother to enjoy; then he was near her while she tried her new piano; then he was helping her to water her flowers.  Oh, yes; perhaps it is a scene like this that has now stolen into her dream; for, as her mother looks again, a charming blush, with the sweetest smile, spreads over her face.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The mother's alarmed heart again grows calm, and, leaving the room, she exclaimed: "Oh, there is no danger!  That smile in sleep betokens naught but innocence and purity, even if her dream is ambitious, and God will in his mercy guide her steps in every danger, for in Him her young heart trusts, I know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie slept uncommonly late the next morning, for, as we have seen, she was very tired; and her mother, knowing that she was so, did not give her the usual call.  When she awoke, the sun was shining brightly in her little room, and the morning looked far advanced.  She leaped to the floor, and the first object that caught her eye was a beautiful bouquet of fresh-picked flowers on her dressing table.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh!"  said she, "who has been here?  But I know that is dear Walter's work.  But why did he not call me?  Every hour I can talk with him now is most precious.  It was too bad I slept, when, if up, I could have been with him, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Then Minnie raised the bouquet from the vase, thrust her little nose among the flowers to drink in their fragrance, saying: "What nice taste Walter has in the arrangement of a bouquet!  How kind to think of me in this way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then she kissed the knot of blue ribbons with which the flowers were tied, and replaced them in the vase.  When she soon afterwards emerged from her room, her mother and Walter were seated near the father's bed, waiting for her to sit at breakfast with them, which was all ready.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As she kissed them all good morning, they laughed at her for sleeping so late, and she chided them for not having called her.  Then she gave another kiss to Walter for the flowers, and they all enjoyed an unusually happy and cheerful breakfast that morning, for, though there lay the sick father, and Walter's departure was so very near, yet hope now threw some of its bright, warm rays into that little cottage, which seemed to light up their future paths through life with many a charm and pleasure they never saw there before.  Breakfast over, all was excitement to get Walter ready for his departure.  That day Walter resigned his place in the hardware store; saw his friend James De Forest, and went with him to Sutten &amp; Son, the agents of the ship on which James had taken his passage, and Walter paid his fare to San Francisco.  The ship was to sail in just one week, but that gave Walter ample time to prepare himself and say "good-bye" to all his friends.  Many little presents poured in on him.  His old employers, with whom he was a favorite, gave him a handsome outfit of camp utensils for his new life in the mines of California; then came from lady friends of the family jars of preserves and sweatmeats of all sorts, which were most acceptable; then came a dozen or two of English ale, with the request that Walter would, after being a month in California, write fully to the donor; then a basket of champagne on the same arrangement.  So far as James De Forest and Walter had seen their fellow passengers, they were most favorably impressed.  To them they appeared far above the average in education and intelligence; and so, in fact, they were, as they afterwards proved.  And this character could be claimed for nearly all the immigrants to California at that time.  The good Wagner parents did not wait until the parting hour to give words of advice <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>404</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:to their beloved son.  No; they knew they could not trust themselves to do it then.  So they had a long talk with Walter the day after his passage was taken.  The mother got his solemn promise never to play cards, except in a social way, when ladies were present.  This promise, which was faithfully kept, saved Walter in after life from many a temptation and danger.  The mother gave him a handsomely bound copy of the Bible, though diminutive in size, with a prayer for his safety inscribed in the first page.  The father gave him that world-admired little book, "The Following of Christ," with a " <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As to Minnie, there was scarcely an article in his trunk that did not, in some way, bring her sweet presence to his imagination whenever he opened it.  The parting day came; it was, as all such days are, very lonesome and sad; yet hope threw such sunlight into it on this occasion, that all bore up bravely and well.  Early that morning James De Forest had called to bid farewell to the Wagner family; Mr. and Mrs. Wagner, with tears, and blessings and prayers, bade him "Godspeed."  Minnie accompanied him to the door, and then to the garden gate.  As he took her hand in his, at parting, he said, in the lowest whisper, and in a voice of emotion:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie, will you sometimes think of and pray for me?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You will always be in my thoughts and prayers when I think of Walter," she said, looking earnestly, brightly and calmly into his face; "and I will glory in your success, and be as proud of it as if you were my brother."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In an instant he raised her hand to his lips, and, passionately kissing it, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank you, Minnie; that is all I want you to say now, and all I want to make me feel like a real brave man in my battle for fortune and position in California."  Then, quickly turning to a rosebush, he picked off a beautiful bud, and reaching it to her, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Will you take this, and keep it until I call for it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie now blushed scarlet; then turned very pale, and with quivering lips, said, in a voice full of feeling, just above her breath: "I promise."  In an instant James was out of sight, hurrying toward the ship that was to take him to far-off California.  He murmured as he went:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; she will keep that promise, for she never broke one in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>405</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>As Minnie turned away from the gate, her eyes were fixed on the rosebud, and there was a queer, new feeling about her heart, as she seemed to register <HI REND="italics">there</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; there can be no harm in that; he is a good, noble fellow, and so fond of Walter, too.  Yes; I will keep this bud for him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, walking into her own room, she opened a book to place it in press, and just as she was about to place it in position she quickly raised it to her lips, then hastily closed the book on it, while a quick glance around the room and a conscious blush betrayed feelings she herself did not know lurked round her heart.  Early the next day the ship sailed, bearing away Walter and his friend, and leaving poor Minnie with a lonesome heart and in a fit of weeping she, for some time, found it impossible to overcome.  But Minnie was, as Walter said, a great little woman, and, as she said herself, she had her father and mother to comfort; so, in a surprisingly short time, she was once more, with smiling face, performing her daily duties, and doing all she could to cheer up her parents.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After a reasonably short and pleasant voyage, Walter Wagner and James De Forest found themselves in San Francisco.</P>
181.sgm:<P>That we may understand better their future careers, let us say a word of the general character of each of them.  James De Forest was just twenty-one years old; he was of middle height, well-built, good-looking, and prepossessing in his manners and general appearance; he had a good education, and was of steady, cautious business habits, and a good judge of character; he was upright and honorable in all his dealings with every one.  Walter Wagner was one year younger, but looked older; tall and well-built, and promised to be a powerful man when fully developed; his education was good; he was frank and off-hand in his ways, but was far too confiding, and, therefore, subject to be often the victim of designing men; he meant no wrong to any one himself, and he judged others by himself, and gave his confidence, without reserve, to any one who would make a pretence or show of friendship or good-will towards him; he was not a good judge of character, mainly because he never stopped to examine it carefully; when deceived, he was furious on the discovery, and never thought of blaming himself, as he should have done, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>406</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>407</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"I would not take five thousand dollars for my experience.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>408</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Hearing of extensive new discoveries of placer diggings in the vicinity of Downieville, in the northern mines, he struck out for them, spent his last dollar in buying into a claim, and was once more lucky.  His partner in the claim, Isaac Hilton, proved to be a first-class man; prudent, shrewd and wise.  He was some ten years older than Walter, and had a most salutary influence over him.  When their claim was worked out, they found themselves with a cash capital of five thousand dollars.  With this they opened a little trading-post, or store, a few miles from Downieville, high up in a mountain canyon, where a host of miners were at work.  The site on which stood their little mercantile shanty was picturesque and beautiful.  Now, once more, fortune seemed about to deal out her choicest favors to Walter.  He felt proud and happy, and wrote to Minnie in glowing terms of his prospects, and excited her imagination to the highest, by the poetic, romantic description he gave her of his house in the mountains, expressing the most earnest wish that she and his mother could be with him, for he had just had the sad news of his father's death.  When poor Walter wrote this letter, little did he dream that the great struggle of his life, the turning point on which all was to depend, was yet before him.  The men into whose employment James De Forest had entered were successful in their enterprise beyond their expectations, and soon took James into partnership.  He had not grown rich fast, but every month improved the prospects of his company, and he was slowly and surely becoming one of the most prominent and wealthy men connected with the navigation of the coast and inland waters of Oregon.  Walter and he had never met since their separation in San Francisco, but they were in constant correspondence, and every circumstance connected with Walter's family was always of the first interest to young De Forest.</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>SIR JOHN CAMERON--AGNES AND-LUSK.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now let me draw attention, in this chapter, to far-off England.  The spot I will take the reader to is the beautiful residence of Sir John Cameron Ward, not many miles from the city of London; a proud old Baron, who is not half so proud of his title or his riches as he is of the untarnished honor of his whole race in the past.  He is good-hearted, unsuspicious and generous, almost to a fault; he is a devoted husband and an indulgent father; he has an amiable, good wife and two beautiful daughters, aged, respectively, seventeen and nineteen.  The education of Margaret, the elder, is just completed.  She is beautiful and ambitious.  Agnes, the younger, is yet under instruction, and she seems to have no developed aim in life, except it is to please every one.  The father loves them both devotedly, and never denies them anything in his power to procure for them.  To watch his intercourse with his two children, you could not help thinking that his love for the younger is more marked and, perhaps, of a more tender character than that for the elder.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The young ladies are very fond of riding on horseback, and they each have a beautiful riding animal at their command.  The old coachman has lately died, and his place is taken by a man who was recommended to Sir John by a nobleman, a particular friend of the family.  This new coachman's name is Thomas Lusk.  He is tall, fine-looking, and not over twenty-five years old, and, for his position, he is remarkably genteel in his manners and deportment, and, in fact, far above his position.  He has a thorough knowledge of horses, and is a careful and excellent driver.  In the presence of Sir John and his lady, his manner is remarkably subservient, almost abject; but when alone with the young ladies it is sometimes free, bordering on impudence.  On one of these occasions, the elder daughter gave him a severe reproof; so, with her, he was afterwards more careful.  When the young ladies rode out without their father or other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>410</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>411</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," his father would sometimes exclaim, as he met the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>420</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>412</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>At length, the bandit resolved to rob Sir John's house.  The expedition was all well planned, and Lusk's familiarity with the premises made it an easy "job," the robbers thought.  When all was arranged, that night Lusk returned home as usual, half-drunk.  Throwing himself into a chair, he gave out a mocking sort of a laugh, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am thinking how nicely I will be even with that old dotard, your father.  Oh, yes; I will be even with the old villain that has left us to starve."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Agnes trembled and grew sick with fear, for she knew what Lusk's words must mean.  She controlled herself, however, as she was most anxious to discover his plans, and she knew silence was her best way to effect that.  She arose, laid his supper on the table for him, and again took her seat, without uttering a word.  He commenced to eat, without further remark.  Just as he had finished eating, a man whom Agnes had often seen before with her husband came in, and, without invitation, threw himself into a vacant chair.  Without saying a word to the man, Lusk turned to Agnes, and said, bluntly:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Leave the room.  I want to talk on business to this gentleman."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Agnes slowly arose from her seat, and walked with a sort of a listless step out of the room; but the moment she closed the door she darted with a noiseless step into a closet that was in the wall between the two rooms, and close to where Lusk sat.  As she stood, with breathless, listening attention, she heard him give his confederate, who seemed not to have been at their late council, the full particulars of their plan of robbing Sir John's house the following night, concluding with:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"We will go armed to the teeth, for none of us must be taken alive in any event; and, if a scramble does come, I will take good care that old Sir John will never live to prosecute me--or persecute me, either--any more."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As quick as thought, Agnes left her place in the closet, and now, as Lusk and his confederate came out of the room, they found her as if half-dozing in an old, rickety chair, gazing into the badly lit, ill-cared-for London street, in which the robber had his miserable home.  For a little while her mind was in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>413</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no; <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm: forbid; she would put him on his guard."  But oh, how could she do it in time, and so as to avoid the vigilance of her robber husband?  Poor, generous, girl; she never condemned nor found fault with the unnatural, cruel and anti-Christian edicts of the English society, which condemned her fault as one not to be forgiven, even when repented of with tears of anguish like hers, so often shed.  No; as became a true English girl, she bows to its heathen laws, without one doubt of their justice crossing her mind.  <HI REND="italics">She</HI>
181.sgm: was <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
181.sgm: in fault; no one else had done anything wrong or un-Christian, though she should starve or be trampled to death by a villain husband.  After due reflection, she determined that as soon as Lusk should leave the house, the next morning, she would make her way to her father's house, and privately see her mother, for she dare not venture to see her father, unbidden, under any pretence, and in this way put them all on their guard.  That night she tried to sleep, but whenever she dozed she saw Lusk murdering her father.  To her relief, morning came at length, and Lusk left at the usual hour.  Not a moment was to be lost.  She had from time to time, by half-starving herself, saved a few shillings out of the money given to her by Lusk for the purchase of food.  This she now put in her pocket, and, instructing her son, now six years old, what to say in case his father should happen to return during her absence, she started for the railroad station; took a seat in a second-class car, and was soon at the station, which was within half a mile of her father's beautiful residence.  Oh! who can imagine or describe her thoughts and feelings as, after seven long years' absence, she walked on with trembling step toward the grand old iron gate, that opened the way through the magnificent avenue and beautiful lawn that was all hers in childhood, to love and enjoy, when the world looked a paradise before her, and when her steps were all guarded and watched as though she were heiress to a throne.  She hurries on, and luckily no one notices or accosts her.  She is very close to the house, when the old house dog runs out and barks at her; but now he stops, for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>414</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, mother, hide me from my father!  I would not have come at all, but that I have a terrible thing to tell you that I could not get any one else that I could trust to explain to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Calm yourself, my poor darling," the mother whispered; "and do not fear your father.  He has had terrible dreams about you of late, and has just concluded to look you up and forgive you, which he would have done long ago, but that he feared to offend the ideas and laws of society; so, do not fear to meet him, my poor darling.  Come to my own little room, and tell me all you want, and let me hold you in my lap, and rest your head in its own old place, my darling."  And so they were seated, when Agnes exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! mother, all is now over for me in this world; I feel it <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
181.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>415</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Then she, with hurried voice, related all that she had heard of the plans of the robbers, and how they had resolved not to be taken alive, and how they had planned to kill her father if there was any resistance.  But she never revealed that Lusk was to be the leader of the party, or to be there at all; for, somehow, she could not bring herself to that, and it was evidently unnecessary.  Her mother now insisted that she should not return to London, or any more leave her old home; but a few words from Agnes convinced her that to pursue this course would be to reveal everything to the robbers and endanger her own life, without having accomplished any good.  Her mother then proposed to change her clothes; but no, that, too, would insure her discovery and destruction.  Then, with an aching heart, she filled out a glass of wine, and induced Agnes to swallow it.  Then, after one more silent, impassioned embrace, they parted; Agnes leaving as she had come, and no one in the whole house knew that the poor, miserable looking girl they saw, with supreme dismay, passing out of Lady Ward's room, was no other than the once favorite child of the whole family.  Lady Ward had to hold the old dog with her handkerchief around his neck, or he would have followed poor Agnes back to London, and after he was liberated he whined and moaned piteously, while he lay, as if in suffering, on the ground.  Just then Sir John rode up, and, as he alighted and threw the bridle-rein to the servant in waiting, the old dog rushed to him, and, looking up in his face, commenced the same piteous moaning and howling.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why," said Sir John; "what is the matter with you, Nero?"  The dog now redoubled his demonstrations of grief or pain, and ran down the avenue for a little way, with his nose close to the ground; then back again to Sir John; then he sat back on his haunches and gave out a long, fearful, continuous cry.  Sir John regarded the old dog with astonishment, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I believe the poor old creature is going to die; but what does he mean by running down the avenue in that way?"  Then turning to a servant who was approaching him, he asked: "Has any one been here lately?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No one, Sir John, that I have seen, except a ragged looking girl, who was, for a little time, with Lady Ward in her room."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And then the servant told him Lady Ward wished to see him in her room.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Sir John trembled all over, and grew deadly pale.  But what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>416</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I have been an unnatural father!  I have allowed the cold, unnatural laws of society to govern me, and have let my child, my sweet, my poor, darling, simple child, the victim of a cunning villain, be beaten and starved to death, without once inquiring to know her fate!  Oh, England, my country! why do you manufacture religion by acts of Parliament, which give us Christianity in a form so cold and icy that it can neither reach the heart nor soften down the tyranny of the rules of cold society?  Oh, my child! my murdered child! forgive, forgive your father; and, oh! may God forgive me, too!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then suddenly he recalled the threatening danger to his house-hold, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, aye; we must ward off this threatened blow."</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>A SELFISH CHILD--FATHER AND DAUGHTER.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Agnes, on leaving her mother, retraced her way to London.  She took her place in the railroad car, all wild with excitement; she knew not why.  She was no longer weak or trembling, as she had been approaching her old home; her step was light, as though her whole frame weighed nothing; her vision was clear and intensely sensitive to every object, far and near; there seemed to be within her some violent contention.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What have I done!  What have I done!" she murmured to herself, as her wild, bright eyes flashed from side to side, as if seeking for sympathy or relief in the surroundings.  "He is the father of my child.  Yes, yes; he is, and he will be shot to-night, and I have done it.  "Oh!" she continued, as her eyes were now riveted on the plain gold ring on her finger.  "I swore that morning in the church to be true to him until death.  Oh, God! what have I done!"  As she whispered this to herself, she started to her feet, as if aroused beyond control by some bitter pang; then, dropping back into her seat, she rested her forehead, now streaming with perspiration, on her hand, and murmured: "Yes, my God; I thank Thee for the thought; if I did anything but what I have done, I would be my own father's murderer, and no vow ever made on earth is holy that would justify that.</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was late in the afternoon when Agnes found herself on the stairway to her garret home.  The little boy answered her eager questions as to his father, by informing her that he had not returned.  As she stooped and kissed the child, a pang again darted through her, and again she started, trembled, and became deadly pale.  The boy looked at her with a strange, meaning intelligence, as he said, in a blunt way:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I won't tell him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, of course you won't, my pet; and I have brought you a nice cake, all for yourself."  Then she kissed him, with cold lips, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>418</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; it is all I have in the world, but I will spend it for him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a few moments she returned with a beefsteak, and in a short time had the evening meal prepared and all in readiness for Lusk when he should make his appearance.  He came at the accustomed hour.  He seemed excited, but in uncommonly good humor, and, as he glanced at the nicely prepared supper and general surroundings, he excaimed, smilingly:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Aggie, you are getting to be a great little housekeeper; but where on earth did you find the money to get that nice, tempting beefsteak? for I believe I did not leave you a penny for the last three days."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Agnes trembled, grew pale, but tried to smile, as she stammered out that she found two shillings in her trunk that morning.  Lusk observed her agitation, and looked on her, not as of old, but with an expression of kindness and concern Agnes had never seen in his face before.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Come, poor Aggie," he said; "you do not look well.  You and Johnny must share this steak with me to-night; come, bring the boy; there is enough for us all, and to-morrow I will have plenty of money, or" --and he stopped for a moment as if choking, but, clearing his throat, he concluded with:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, yes; to-morrow I will have plenty of money for us all, and more than we want."</P>
181.sgm:<P>His words seemed to confuse and bewilder Agnes.  She snatched up the boy in an excited way, and placed him at the table; took a seat herself, and ate in a quick, nervous way, feeling as if in a dream, for Lusk talked and laughed to-night as she had never heard him in her married life do before.  It sounded strange and unnatural, and excited her almost beyond control; but, by a desperate effort of will, she kept herself within bounds, and Lusk never observed her anguish of mind.  Just as their meal was finished, heavy footsteps were heard on the stairway, and presently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>419</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said the stranger; "you are eating; it is time we were on the move; so, hurry up, Captain."  Lusk assented, and, stepping behind a ragged curtain Agnes had hung to guard her bed from sight, he changed his clothes, and prepared himself fully for his night's work.  As he did so, he now and then exchanged a word with the stranger on the general news of the day.  At the sight of this man Agnes almost swooned away, and saved herself from falling only by dropping back in her chair.  There she sat, motionless and unobserved by the two men, whose whole thoughts were evidently on their own business.  The boy had crawled into his little bed the moment he had finished supper, and is now fast asleep.  Lusk is ready, and both men leave the room, without even a glance at Agnes, whose eyes are wild, and burning like coals of fire, while every muscle and limb is powerless to move.  Just as Lusk is about to descend the stairway, he remembers Agnes, for the first time he had ever done so on such occasions.  He stops, and turns back into the room.  He walks to where Agnes is yet seated, motionless.  He stoops, and says in a low voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Agnes, if anything should happen to me, and that I never come back, you know, forgive me for all the terrible misery I brought on you; I did not intend it; I thought your father would forgive us, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Agnes struggled to speak, but her tongue refused its office, and it was well, for justice's sake, that it did, for the generous woman would have given way, and saved a villain's life had she had speech to do it.  Lusk saw the struggle in her face, and continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Never mind, poor Aggie; I swear I will be kind to you forevermore."  And he stooped and kissed her cold, marble cheek, and then he turned quickly to the bed of the child and stooped to kiss him, but at that moment the boy opened his eyes, and, with his little fist clenched, he struck back his father's head with all his force, crying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There, get away; you shan't kick me so any more."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Lusk arose to his full height, and, looking down on the child savagely, muttered between his teeth:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Curse the brat!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then he was starting down the stairway to join his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>420</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah," said the night-watch, in a sort of a kind voice; "young, beautiful and of rare, fine stock, too, but miserable and starved, I see.  Ah, a wedding ring, too!  Poor thing!  Where are you going? or what do you want?  Can I help you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Agnes at first tried to pass, but that she found impossible, and suddenly her presence of mind returned, and she realized her position.  She said, mildly:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I was trying to overtake a friend, but I see I am too late; so I will go home."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As she turned to go, the officer said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Shall I see you safe back?  This fog makes the night so dark that you may miss your way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, I thank you; I would rather go alone, so please let me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This was said in a voice of supplication, so the officer intruded no further, but said, as he turned away:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"God help you, poor child, whoever you are."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Agnes thanked him, and, hurriedly retracing her steps, soon found herself again in her dismal garret, standing by the bed of her boy, with the candle in her hand, gazing down at his face.  She was wet, cold and pale, with her eyes still glowing with unnatural brightness.  She murmured as she gazed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, he is gone for ever; and, oh, my God! he cursed his boy as he left him!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then she laid her candle down and commenced to walk up and down her garret floor, with her arms sometimes folded across her breast; sometimes both hands were clasped tightly on her forehead.  At the least uncommon noise in the street she would start, and be on the point of screaming out.  On, on, she walked for hours and hours, sometimes muttering to herself broken sentences, such as:</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>421</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"When he was so kind to me to-night, why did I not go on my knees to him, and implore him to give up his terrible plot?  Why did I not confess to him what I had done, and let him kill me on the spot?  Oh, it would have been so much easier than to endure this terrible feeling.  If I had done that, it would have saved father just as well.  Oh, how can I ever hug my boy again, when it was I who--but I will not let myself think of it, for I could not help it.  Oh, when will this terrible night have an end?  Oh, God, be merciful, and help me!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>On, on, poor Agnes walks.  She hears the clock strike two.  Now her head leans forward, and her face is clasped in both her hands; she turns to her child's bed, drops on her knees, and, without removing her hands, lets her head rest forward on the bed; she tries to pray; then overcome and worn-out nature has its way, and she is fast asleep.  Another hour passes, and now her whole frame seems to writhe in agony, for her dreams are of a bloody struggle between her father and her husband.  With a half-scream she leaps to her feet, drenched in cold perspiration, yet half-awake; the light is dim in the room; she trembles with fear of she knows not what; then her ears catch the noise of a carriage rattling over the pavements; she starts, and exclaims:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah, what carriage can that be at this hour?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>It is nothing strange, either, for London, in any hour of day or night, yet now her gaze is transfixed; she cannot move, and scarcely breathes.  Yes; the carriage stops at the street door, and now Agnes hears several voices, as if in consultation; the door is opened, and some one ascends the stairs, with a firm, heavy step; that step is recognized by every nerve in her system; she drops on her knees, clasps her hand above her head, and, as the door opens, exclaims:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Father, forgive your poor child!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The answer is a passionate embrace, with whisperings of pet names, that tell of the overflowing of pent-up love.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a few short hours more Agnes is in her own old room in her own old home.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE ROBBERS TRAPPED--YOUNG LUSK.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Sir John learned the danger that threatened his household from Lady Ward, it was too late to send to London for police assistance, so he had to depend on his own resources.  He at once summoned to his counsel three gentlemen who were his visitors, two of whom were army officers.  The whole plan of defence was soon arranged.  Twenty reliable men were found to put under arms.  Everything being ready, and every man well instructed and put in his place, the lights were put out at the usual hour.  The trap laid for the robbers worked to a charm.  A little after midnight they came in force, and found the entrance to the house much easier than they had expected.  After securing the booty they sought for, they turned to descend from the window by which they had entered, when a terribly deadly fire saluted them; they were off their guard, and every one of them but one powerful fellow dropped dead on the spot.  This man who escaped was evidently the leader.  He dropped to the ground also on the first fire, but seemed to recover himself, and dashed off towards the avenue.  In five minutes more Sir John and four of his friends were on their way to London for Agnes and her boy.  In the afternoon of that day the body of a large man was found under an old oak tree, where, from the appearance of the ground and the position of the body, it was evident he had died in terrible agony.  It was the body of Lusk; and this was the very tree under which he had met Agnes, to arrange for her elopement.  Sir John and the old gardener were the only two who recognized the body as that of Lusk, and they kept their own counsel.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Two weeks from the day of her arrival at her old home, Agnes yielded up her blighted life.  She expired, surrounded by all the loved ones of her childhood and girlhood, with her head <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>423</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Sir John now took the greatest pains with the little boy, poor Agnes' sole bequest.  He was petted by the whole household, but, somehow, he appeared without any real attachment to any one, often gave symptoms of a dark, revengeful temper, and was often singularly cruel towards animals.  At twelve years of age, he was sent to a school of much reputation, where he improved in all his studies rapidly.  Here, however, he got into a quarrel with one of the teachers, and on that occasion displayed such a fearfully dark temper that he was expelled.  At the next school he went to, he made the same rapid progress in his studies.  One day, while at this school, he came home from a walk, and reported a school fellow drowned in a deep canal in the neighborhood.  His story was, that the drowned boy was his companion in the walk, and had stumbled headlong into the canal, and was drowned before he could render him any assistance.  When the body was taken from the canal, it was found to be bruised and cut about the head, which caused many dark suspicions at the time, which, in after years, were revived by a woman's story of once having seen two boys in a desperate fight on the spot where the body was found, when one, she said, overpowered the other and flung him into the canal.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Young Lusk grew tall, handsome and powerful; was intelligent and bright, and, when he wished, could make himself most agreeable to men and fascinating to women.  Sir John never cared to have him much at home, and now he got him a place as midshipman on board a man-of-war going on a long cruise.  He was not popular with his messmates.  The ship returned in one year, and on this occasion Sir John was most liberal to the midshipman in the way of money.  Young Lusk dashed into all sorts of excesses, and closed his visit home by forging his grandfathers's name to a check for two hundred pounds.  The grandfather discovered the forgery, though no one else did, just before the ship sailed, and summoned the boy before him, upbraided him for his crime, explained its enormity, and warned him of the consequences if he ever again was guilty of the like.  Lusk asked forgiveness, and promised never again to offend.  The very next time his ship returned to port, Lusk repeated his crime; this time for a yet larger sum.  Sir John again paid the forged check, without bringing the young man to justice, but gave him <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>424</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:notice that the next time the <HI REND="italics">law</HI>
181.sgm:<P>The only influence his unfortunate grandfather sought to exercise in his favor was to get this sentence for him, instead of an ignominious death on the scaffold, which the laws of England at that time allowed a Judge to inflict at his discretion.  The moment Lusk was sentenced, he assumed a sad, penitent deportment, and when he reached the convict ship, he wrote in this spirit to his grandfather, and begged of him to write to the Governor and prominent officials in Australia, to ask all the indulgence in his favor that it was possible to give, not inconsistent with their sense of duty.  As he closed the letter, and sent it off, he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; I will play my part well, and that will give me an opportunity to escape.  Yes; I will escape, as sure as there is a sun to shine in Australia.  The fetters that could hold a man like me were never yet forged.  Why, I have in my veins the noblest blood in England, mingled with the most daring, villainous blood; surely, that ought to make a villain of uncommon fame.  Yes; the blood of the noble lion, mingled with the blood of the sneaking wolf, ought to produce an animal with ambition to reach out for anything, and with instincts that would make it natural for it not to hesitate to adopt any means, no matter how low and vile they might be, that would accomplish the object <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>425</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>As Lusk concluded this picture, he chuckled and laughed aloud.  Whenever the Captain or officers were present, he never forgot his part during the whole voyage to Sidney.  Sir John did get such letters as Lusk had asked for sent to the Governor of the Colonies, and their influence, together with his own uniformly good conduct, obtained for him many privileges.  The labor given him was of a light, easy character, and after the first year he was allowed perfect freedom for a part of each day.  He never was a minute behind time in returning to his post.  To all the officers he was polite, submissive, and never spoke except when spoken to, nor did he ever forget to look sad and dejected; but in his hours of freedom he had no such demeanor or look.  Then he wore the fierce look of a chained tiger.  In every way he could, he cultivated the acquaintance of the most desperate of the convicts, and had many of them combined in a gang sworn to obey him in everything.  Among these, the most prominent was one Jack Lawson and his two sons, Ike and Mike.  Jack Lawson was an old, experienced housebreaker, in London, and was once in Lusk's father's gang; and he now often entertained the son with the details of the desperate achievements and hair-breadth escapes of his father.  Jack was caught at last, and was transported to the penal colonies, where, after awhile, he was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>426</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>The gold discoveries in California had determined the Lawsons to emigrate to that country as soon as the father could make his escape easily.  As a preliminary move, they confided Lizzie to a respectable family, who were going to San Francisco, with the understanding that she was to remain with them until called for by the father or either of the sons.  About this time Jack reported to Lusk the arrival in port of an English bark, the Blue Bell, with a very suspicious looking Captain and a villainous looking crew, made up of all nationalities, but mostly of mulatoes and blacks from the Island of Jamaica.  The Captain was a mulatto himself.  He was a tall, powerful fellow, with a dark, fierce eye.  He spoke English, Spanish and French, as if each was his native tongue; but, outside of that, his education was limited, scarcely enough to enable him to navigate his vessel, and he, therefore, took good care always to have a pretty well educated first officer.  Lusk told his confederate, Jack, to study up this Captain as well as he could, and report to him.  The next day Jack brought the news that the Captain of the Blue Bell wanted some writing done, for which he was willing to pay well, and that he had told him of Lusk, and that the Captain had agreed to an interview, at a hotel near to where they then stood at that hour.  Lusk lost no time in accompanying Jack to the Captain's room.  On being introduced to each other, their eyes met in a steady, unflinching gaze for an instant.  In that gaze Lusk found nothing that made him fear the Captain; no, the feeling that ran through him was rather one of contempt, as he said to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I can handle that chap easily enough."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The feeling that struck the Captain was the consciousness that in the man before him he had met his match in everything, and far over his match in villainy, and an undefined fear for a moment held him silent.  Lusk threw himself into a chair in a careless way, saying:</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>427</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"My friend tells me, Captain, that you want some writing done.  Can I be of any service to you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; if you are skilled in the pen, and do not give yourself the trouble to talk about other people's business when you are paid to hold your tongue."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well put in, Captain; I understand you, and you can depend on me, for I know a way you can oblige me more than I can repay you by doing this writing, whatever it may be, and for holding my tongue also."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain bowed, and, without further ceremony, told Lusk that he wanted a full set of American papers made out for his ship, "as it was," he said, in a careless way, "convenient for him to sail sometimes under American colors, and, in case he was overhauled, he wanted to be found all right, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Lusk said "the idea was a first-rate one," and agreed to go to the Custom House and get a look at some American ship's papers, and copy them exactly.  The name of the bark in the American papers was to be the "Eagle, of New York, Jones, master."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Lusk appeared the following Sunday, that being the day agreed upon to meet again, with a beautifully executed set of papers for the "Bark Eagle, of New York, Jones, master."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, you are skillful with the pen, sure enough," exclaimed the Captain.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Lusk, while a smiled curled on his lips; "and it was that skill that brought me to this cursed colony."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, surely; I now remember to have heard of that little circumstance," said the Captain, laughing.  "Well, how can I oblige you, Mr. Lusk, for all this work, and for your silence also, you know?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Simply by taking me into your employment."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, Mr. Lusk; but you know there is risk about that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I know," said Lusk, carelessly; "but not much, and if that and much more could not be accomplished by you and myself when we put our heads together, in a little matter of business, you are not fit to be Captain of the enterprising little crowd you have on board the Blue Bell; nor am I fit to enter into your employment."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You seem to understand the sort of trade the Blue Bell is destined for, Mr. Lusk," said the Captain, in the same tone Lusk had spoken in.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Perfectly, my dear Captain; I dreamed of you before you came here; I longed to be in your service.  My profession, you know, bids me take to the sea as my battle-field, for I have an account to settle with "society" which I am most anxious to square up.  There is a glorious chance for a beginning on the coast, between Panama and San Francisco.  Look there, my dear fellow," said he, drawing from his pocket a copy of the <HI REND="italics">Alta-California</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"What can a sailing vessel do with a steamer, and that steamer full of armed Yankees, who would rather fight than eat if they had a choice?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Throw yourself in the track of the steamer and pretend to be in distress until you get your guns bearing right on her broadside; then demand submission or sink her.  Let the passengers be ever so brave, they will be all unprepared and will be incumbered, moreover, with a crowd of women and children.  Just to show them that you mean business, send a shot or two through their upper works, and, my head for it, she will hand out the treasure.  Yes, Captain; put fifty first-class men on your deck, and to capture three, at least, of those steamers, one after the other, is just no trick at all.  After that, the coast might be a little too hot for us, and we would have to run out of the way for a few months; that is all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I confess," said the Captain, "that your plan looks well, but can we get the additional crew here of the right stamp of men?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I have twenty such, bound to follow my fortunes to the end of the world, and we can easily plan a way of getting them on board the Blue Bell some dark night after she is ready for sea."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain remained in thought for a minute or two, and then said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What position, Mr. Lusk, would you expect on board my ship in the event of my accepting your offer?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"First mate," promptly answered Lusk.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, if everything else fits, that will not be hard to give <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The next day Captain Sam Jackson, of the bark Blue Bell, met Lusk and accepted his proposition.  In ten days from that day, Lusk, by a special favor, got two days' leave of absence, and when they had expired he did not return to his post, for he was far out at sea, with his Sydney recruits, on board the Blue Bell, almost all of whom were escaped convicts, under the command of Captain Sam Jackson.</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>ESCAPE--CAPTURE OF A CHILEAN VESSEL--THE FIGHT.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The escape of Lusk and his men, as related in the last chapter, was not such a difficult feat to perform, for in those days the Australian authorities seemed to connive at convicts escaping, provided they went to California and not to England.  The Blue Bell was English-built, but on the American model.  Her masts raked; she was clipper-rigged, and evidently a remarkably fine sailer.  They had fifty able-bodied men on board, four brass cannon, and were well provided with ammunition and small arms.  Every calm day Lusk drilled the men, both in the use of the guns, and also of the sword and revolver.  He showed such superior knowledge, not only in gunnery, but in all that related to navigation, that, naturally, the crew began to look up to him as the real leader, and to scarcely notice the Captain.  The Captain was quick to observe this, and he began to fear and hate his first officer.  To counteract the current he plainly saw setting in against him, he spoke, privately, to many of his old crew, and hinted that they must watch Lusk closely, because he was beginning to suspect that he was a traitor, and would some day sell them all at a price.  In this way he secured the loyalty to himself of a majority of the crew, and only waited a favorable opportunity to rid himself of his rival.  Lusk felt his power over the crew, and, although he saw the Captain's jealous eye often on him with no friendly expression in it, yet he treated this jealousy with contempt, privately making up his mind to rid himself of the Captain and his favorite followers as soon as he could do it safely.  So passed the first month at sea, and every day it became more and more evident that the Blue Bell could not hold two such men as Captain Jackson and Lusk at the same time.  Each now had his particular friends among the crew, warned to keep armed and on the watch.  The Sydney convicts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>439</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Willingly, sir, if you spare the remaining lives on board."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Surely, Captain, you cannot suppose that we would spill blood unnecessarily; so please, sir, hand out the money and other valuables."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain now unlocked his safe, and handed out a bag of Spanish doubloons to the value of some ten thousand dollars.  Then he handed out a box of jewelry and considerable silver plate.  Lusk gave orders for the removal of all this to his boat, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>He now held the boat in its place on the pretence that he was waiting for the two seamen and the Spanish Captain to make their appearance.  As he sat waiting, he tried to appease the girl by assuring her that her father would come very soon.  The Chilean vessel began to fall from side to side; then she staggered like a wounded man.  At this moment Lusk gave orders to "pull away," and it was well for him he did, for in one minute more the fated craft had disappeared in the roaring water, and Lusk barely saved his boat from being ingulfed with her.  The girl fainted, and did not come completely to herself until Lusk laid her out of his arms on the deck of the Blue Bell.  She now sat up, and called wildly for her father.  Lusk besought her to calm herself, assuring her that the death of her father was an accident; but she wept and mourned, and would listen to nothing.  Captain Jackson now made his appearance, for he had been in the cabin, laying away the money and other valuables captured, in safety.  He walked directly over to where the girl and Lusk sat, and for a moment regarded the girl with astonishment and evident admiration.  Then, suddenly turning to Lusk, he said, in English:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I thank you for bringing <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
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181.sgm:<P>"You are mistaken, Captain," said Lusk, in a voice in which there was not the least excitement.  "I did not bring the girl for <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain grew red, then pale with rage, and, drawing his revolver, he leveled it at Lusk's head, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dog, do you undertake to disobey your Captain?  Rise, sir, instantly, and take that girl to my stateroom, or you are a dead man."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Lusk, continuing without the least show of excitement, arose slowly to his feet; but the instant he was erect, with a motion as quick as that of a wildcat, he knocked the pistol out of the Captain's hand, and grasped him by the throat with the grip of a vise.  The whole crew now flew to the scene of the struggle.  Some fought for Jackson, some fought for Lusk.  A blow from some one loosened Lusk's hold on the Captain, who now called out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Overboard with every Sidney convict!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Down with the accursed negro and his band!" called out half a dozen voices on Lusk's side.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now hand to hand they fought with the ferocity of fiends.  Now Jackson falls, and the Jamaicans give way and fly down the hatchway.  Lusk, with scarce a scratch, stands on the deck victorious, with all that are alive of his friends around him.  Thirty men lay on the deck dead or dying, and Captain Jackson among them.  The first thing Lusk did was to order the hatchway closed down.  This done, he turned to look for the poor girl who was the immediate cause of the fight.  She was lying motionless on her face and hands.  He walked hurriedly to her, and, raising her, found she was perfectly dead.  A stray bullet had passed through her body, and sent her to her <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:.  Her prayer was heard, which she had never ceased to repeat after leaving her father, imploring God to take her out of the hands of the pirates, and it was a merciful deliverance from the terrible fate that theatened her.  When Lusk saw she was dead, he turned away, apparently unconcerned.  Jack Lawson looked at her.  Perhaps a thought of his own handsome child crossed his mind, for he paused a moment in thought, while a sad expression passed over his rough features.  Then he turned away, but soon returned with Mike, his son, bringing a new piece of canvas and a heavy gun shot.  As they both now arranged the beautiful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Yes," murmured the old man; "I do this for Lizzie's sake."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Soon the canvas was sewed up, and now they lift her gently over the side of the vessel, and slowly let her drop into the terrible dark deep, that so reminds us of eternity.  While Jack and his son were thus engaged, Lusk was superintending the clearing of the deck of the dead and wounded.  The dead and the wounded both, of those who fell on the Captain's side in the fight, he ordered overboard as fast as a gun shot could be fastened to each.  When he came to Jackson's body, he said, laughing:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Put a double shot on that old rascal; I want him to go beyond the sound of Gabriel's trumpet."</P>
181.sgm:<P>His own dead friends were disposed of with hardly more show of feeling, the only difference being that two men who were badly wounded, on his side, were properly cared for.  The deck now being cleared, the hatchways were thrown open, and the remainder of Jackson's men were decoyed on deck with fair promises; but, the moment they were in his power, he ordered them bound hand and foot, and, with a shot fastened to their necks, hurried them overboard, sparing only a boy of fifteen years old, who was always afterwards known among the crew as "Johnny Lucky."  This boy was particularly attached afterwards to the Lawsons, as it was through Jack's interference he had been spared.</P>
181.sgm:<P>That evening Lusk seemed silent and thoughtful.  Early the next morning he assembled his men; got a formal vote from them declaring him their Captain, and Jack Lawson their first mate.  Then he proposed that they should, for the present, assume the appearance of peaceful traders, stow away their guns and hide all appearance of being armed; then run to one of the Pacific islands, and take on board a deck load of hogs.  These were easily to be had, he said, and were reported to be very scarce in California.  Then, after they had procured the cargo, he proposed they should sail directly for San Francisco.  Their crew was so small now that, of course, the attempt to overhaul a Panama steamer was out of the question until they had more men.  He then represented to his crew that in San Francisco the people were completely off their guard, as hardly any thieves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>They succeeded in getting a fine cargo of hogs, and had a prosperous run to San Francisco, where they dropped anchor in May, 1850.  The hogs were easily sold at a large profit.  Captain Ward then moved his vessel to a safe anchorage near Saucelito, in Richardson's Bay, and took all his valuables on shore, and buried them in a little grove of oaks that grew on a promontory half a mile or more east of the famous watering place for ships in those days.  This promontory was known afterwards for a long time as "Pirates' Point."  Leaving a disabled seaman on board as shipkeeper, all prepared to go on shore.  Before separating, Ward gave each of his men $500.  A place of meeting was agreed on, where they were all to assemble one week from that day.  On reaching the shore, Jack Lawson accompanied the Captain to Burgoyne &amp; Co.'s bank, where they deposited the remainder of the money on hand in Ward's name.  Jack then asked the Captain to help him to find his daughter, Lizzie, and he, having nothing in particular to do, accepted the invitation.  After a little inquiry, they found her with the family with whom she had come from Australia.  Lizzie was overjoyed to see her father so much sooner than she expected.  Jack introduced Captain Ward to her, who seemed very much pleased with her, and they all three remained laughing and talking together for a long time.  On leaving, the Captain asked Lizzie to go to the theater with him that evening.  Her father approved of her going, so she accepted the invitation, and the unfortunate father went away much pleased.  Lizzie was not what could be called beautiful by any means, but she was a well-formed English girl, in vigorous health, with the beauty that youth and health bestow.  She was very genteel-looking, considering her origin; had a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>436</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Lizzie, if father said so, I suppose you must go; but don't go in a hurry again, and look out for the Captain."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Lizzie; "if you think that way, I will get him to take a lady friend of mine with us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; that will do," Ike said.  And the brothers left.  As they gained the street, one of them said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If harm comes to Lizzie, it were better for the Captain, a thousand times, if he had never been born."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain came that evening, and found himself compelled to invite Lizzie's friend.  He saw through her caution, and it aroused in him a determination to triumph over such precautions.  From day to day he visited her, but she was always on her guard, and he grew half-angry with himself for his want of success.  He now assumed the bearing towards her of a respectful, devoted lover.  He made her valuable presents, of which she told her father, and he was pleased, and praised the Captain, as he believed him really in love with Lizzie.  The same caution always pervaded Lizzie's intercourse with Ward, and he attributed this to the influence of the lady with whom she lived; so he induced her father to change her boarding-house to a fashionable one, at that time kept by a Miss Scott, a highly respectable maiden lady from New York.  Here the Captain continued his devoted attention, and seemed better pleased with his progress, as now Lizzie showed a greater taste for dress, and sometimes accepted an invitation from him to go to the theater.  During these summer months of 1850, Ward had fully organized his band of house-breakers and robbers, and every day the people were startled with announcements of a new and daring robbery, or murder and robbery, both.  Ward was one of the most active men in trying to ferret out the perpetrators, but of course never succeeded.  For a long time the place of "rendezvous" of Ward's gang was a set of poor little rickety buildings that Robert Wells &amp; Co. had built on about the line of Stockton street, on the southwest side of Telegraph Hill, not far from the old Pioneer grave-yard.  They were painted lead color, or bluish.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>445</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:, in an effort to protect themselves.  He had no fear of the authorities, for he knew they were busily engaged in their own little game of robbing the city treasury, and fleecing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>NEWS FROM WALTER--MRS. LIGHTHEAD</P>
181.sgm:<P>For seven long months after the ship sailed away from the port of New York with Walter on board, things progressed in the Wagner family just as they had done ever since the father met the terrible accident, except that Walter was not there to read for them in the evening.  To pass this off, Minnie's tongue ran on with incessant talking, asking questions, and getting her mother to relate stories of the Irish patriots, and their often narrow escapes from the minions of English power.  Then, as her father gained strength, she would get him to tell them some stories of the American revolution he had heard his father relate.  So Minnie, in her efforts to direct her parents' thoughts from the sad loss of Walter's company, made herself happy.  After the third month, the father sat up for a few hours each day; but the broken bones did not seem to mend as they should, for he was yet unable to use his lower limbs.  He gradually wasted away to a perfect skeleton, and plainly observed that his end was near; but he was calm and satisfied, as he was very religious.  One day, in the last of the seventh month of Walter's absence, there was a knock at the door.  Minnie arose from her work on the shirts, and went to answer the knock.  On opening the door, there stood Mr. Roman's clerk, holding out a letter to her.  She knew the handwriting.  It was Walter's.  She gave a half-scream, but could not take the letter or move from the spot where she stood.  The clerk understood her perfectly, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Don't be afraid, Miss Minnie.  Your brother is in San Francisco safe and well, and doing well."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank God!" exclaimed the mother, who had rushed to the door on hearing Minnie's cry.</P>
181.sgm:<P>We will not follow mother and daughter back to the little sitting room, where the father lies sick in bed, or attempt to describe a scene we should not be present at.  No; let us close the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>448</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Yes," she said; "I see clearly where Walter fails.  He will not persevere in one line of business.  If I was near him, I could influence him in this respect, and that would be of a great advantage, for I feel certain that if he only would remain in his present location with this Mr. Hilton, he would be rich very soon."  Then, after further reflection, she would run on: "After I was fairly settled, we could send for mother; then we would all be together.  Oh! would not that be heavenly?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie had that day heard of a California grass widow who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>449</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Not so much for the reasons you and Minnie give, but that I favor every woman who has a husband, father or brother in California going there.  It will help to keep society out there from growing wild, and will aid the good and the brave, who are striving to build up an American State on the Pacific side of the mountains, in their good work.  A girl like her is worth more to California just at this time than fifty men would be; and, for my part, I am disgusted at the way women are holding back, though in many cases it is undoubtedly the fault of the men.  So, I say, let Minnie go, and you, Ann, can rent the cottage to some one, and live with me; or I will take the cottage, as my lease where I am will soon expire, and you and I can settle in regard to rent and board between us.  In this respect, do just as you choose yourself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, John, I will take your last offer, for that is just what will suit me in every way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And so it was arranged.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie's heart is now leaping within her with almost wild excitement.  A new life is opened to her view.  She loves California already.  She knows it all over; for has she not read every scrap of history that has lately been published in regard to it?  And has she not read, and almost studied, the San Francisco newspapers which Mr. Roman has been kind enough to lend to her?  Has she not, in imagination, gone through all Walter's enterprises with him, spurring him on when success seemed sure; then arousing him, when defeat came, to renewed efforts to conquer fortune?  Yes; all this is so.  And now in this new enterprise that Walter has just written to her about she is to be his helpmate, right by his side, in reality, and not in imagination, as heretofore.  She saw no danger before her.  The journey seemed as nothing.  Minnie had heard of many sad disappointments in families where the head had gone to California, and of many a letter in a stranger's handwriting having come to hopeful friends, announcing the sad news that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>450</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie now took a good look at her escort as she entered into conversation with her.  She was anxious to ascertain with what sort of a companion chance had thrown her, where all were strangers to her.  Miss Lighthead was rather a good-looking lady, of about thirty years of age.  Minnie was surprised to see her very richly dressed; which she thought looked quite out of place on an occasion like this.  Besides a handsome silk dress, she wore showy diamond ear-rings, a breastpin, and two large diamond rings on her fingers, and a gold watch, with a bunch of showy charms; but the most conspicuous ornament, if ornament you could call it, was a heavy gold watch chain.  It was of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>451</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>443</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"There is a time for all things," she thought to herself, "but surely this is not the time or place for that dress or those ornaments.  I am afraid I have a miserable companion for my voyage, but I will do the best I can."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The passengers were mostly putting their staterooms in order, and all, with a little anxiety, were trying to find out what sort of companions chance gave them for room-mates.  So there were but few on deck, and those that were there seemed buried and lost in their thoughts, looking sad and lonesome.  Minnie made some casual remark by way of opening the conversation, which Mrs. Lighthead did not notice, but said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"So far I do not see many nice people on board.  A lady friend of mine who has just returned from California, where her husband is very rich, told me I would find ever so many nice gentlemen and handsomely dressed ladies on board the steamers."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"A lady <HI REND="italics">returned</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; she went out there, but only staid one month.  San Francisco, she says, is a horrible windy, sandy place, entirely unfit for rich people, who have the means, you know, my dear, to enjoy themselves."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here Mrs. Lighthead gave a toss of her head that shook her ear-rings, while she wound a foot or so of her ox chain around her hand.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But her husband is in San Francisco, you say?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, her husband is there; but what of that?  He can send her money and she can enjoy herself so much better at home."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie now felt a sort of cold, creeping sensation pass through her, as though a snake had drawn its slimy form across her feet, and that as in a dream she could not get away; but, recovering herself, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But you are going to San Francisco to live, Mrs. Lighthead?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I am going there, but as to my staying there, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>452</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Here Mrs. Lighthead fixed her dress and arranged her hat, as she continued, while looking all around:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Though, I confess, I have not seen one yet."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Where is your little boy, Mrs. Lighthead?  I understood your uncle to say that you had a beautiful, intelligent boy, six years old, and I promised myself great pleasure with him in helping you to take care of him, and in watching his movements among the passengers and sailors.  We could so enjoy his astonishment at everything so new to him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Where is he?" said Mrs. Lighthead, in a half-angry, surprised tone of voice.  "Why, of course, he is safe with his grandmother, on Long Island.  I thought the child would go into convulsions, he roared so when I left him; but he will soon get over that, and I was not such a fool as to tag a boy to California with me.  I know I won't stay there, and if I do there will be plenty of time to send for him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie now began to get an insight into the true character of her companion, and it was with a feeling of deep disappointment and almost disgust that she continued the conversation, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But will not his father be expecting him?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; he is a perfect fool about the child, and I took care not to tell him I was going to leave him behind.  He would have made such a fuss about it, and perhaps I would have had to bring him, and that would have just spoiled all my pleasure, and you know it makes one look so old to be showing off a boy of six.  No, indeed; my husband has made money, and I am going to enjoy it while I can."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How long has your husband been in California, Mrs. Lighthead?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, he went there early in forty-nine, and had, he says, a terrible lonesome time of it, boarding around in ill-kept restaurants and coffee-houses, and at night forced to lie down in a bed not fit for a Christian to sleep on.  When he went to California he wanted me to go with him, and has been writing to me ever since to induce me to come and bring little Willie with me; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>453</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Seeing that Minnie gave no apparent assent to this proposition, she concluded with:  "Well, it is my view, anyway, and is the view, too, taken by most of the California widows; and I have just a perfect pity and contempt for those wives who went in forty-nine, with their love-sick, romantic notions of `standing by their husbands in their trials and privations,' and worrying themselves to death out there watching and taking care of men, as though God meant women to have any hard work or particular business to do in this world."</P>
181.sgm:<P>How Minnie's blood boiled in her veins, in indignation at the low, degraded sphere this woman claimed for the whole sex.  Her thoughts flashed back on the beautiful life of her own mother, and a flash of pride lit up her bright eyes, as, in an instant, she reviewed it, and her own short life, and could find nothing in either to justify a belief in such an idea, as that God had not made women for just as high and important a sphere of duties as he had men, even if the duties were to be totally of a different character.  She was about to reply to Mrs. Lighthead, but she checked herself, saying in her own mind: "This woman could never comprehend my views, so let her go.  I pity her poor husband.  Oh, how he will feel when he finds his little Willie was left screaming behind.  Oh, this creature of a woman is a sort of relation, I think, of the Russian woman, who, to save her own life, threw her children, one by one, to the wolves pursuing her!  Whenever I see a mother neglect her child through selfishness, I somehow think of that Russian monster."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The wind was now blowing fresh and cold, and Mrs. Lighthead exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Miss Wagner, I do believe I am getting a little sick; suppose we go to our stateroom?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie was glad enough to end the conversation with her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>454</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>When Mrs. Lighthead and Minnie were seated near each other, as on the day before, Mrs. Lighthead seemed to regard Minnie very closely for some minutes; then, assuming a patronizing, motherly sort of a tone, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My dear, you are very, very, handsome; which, of course, you know; for we all know when we are very handsome, though we don't pretend to know it, for it makes a better impression on others not to appear to know it.  Now, for instance, it would be foolish in me to deny, just here between ourselves, that I am very handsome, yet I pretend not to know it.  But, as I was saying, you are very handsome, and of course you are going to California just to make your market; in other words, to get a rich husband."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie could not help firing up at this coarse address, so she broke in:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I assure you, Mrs. Lighthead, you never were more mistaken in your life.  I have no consciousness of this beauty you talk of, and I am going to California to keep house for my brother, and I never thought of such a mean thing as that you speak of."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Mean</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"I think there is, Mrs. Lighthead, and I assure you that you do me a great injustice."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Injustice, child!  Why, I accuse you of nothing that is wrong.  What is there that is wrong in getting a rich husband?  Nothing whatever; but much that is commendable, for it is on riches, after all, that we are to depend for everything good in this world.  It is better than education, though that is, of course, necessary to a limited extent.  It is better than intelligence, for who cares for an intelligent person if he is not rich?  It is even better than beauty; for, though that is better than either education or intelligence, yet riches will bring us more friends and pleasures of every sort than either.  And then, you know, the occasional faults of rich people are overlooked, for every one knows that a rich person, either man or woman, is excused, and in fact has rights where the poor creatures who have nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>455</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:would be condemned out of hand.  So, my dear, don't be ashamed of this move of yours to get a rich husband.  It is just what you should do with that beauty of yours.  Put it in the market.  Yes, put it in the market; and sell it for the highest price.  Don't mind about age, or good looks, or anything in fact, if you are sure the man <HI REND="italics">is rich</HI>
181.sgm:<P>While Mrs. Lighthead ran on, thus developing her ideas of the duties and aims of woman, Minnie's disgust and indignation were such that she could hardly listen with common patience, for every sentiment of her genuine womanhood was offended.  However, commanding herself as well as it was possible, she said, in a decided, though somewhat tremulous voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Lighthead, let me again assure you that you misconceive me altogether.  I neither want a rich husband, nor a poor one.  My brother in California needs my sisterly care and assistance, and he shall have both as long as they are of any use to him; for he is my darling brother, and his success is my success, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>456</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, certainly, Miss Wagner; retain your mother's views, they are very pretty."  Here Mrs. Lighthead gave a chuckling laugh. "You are young yet.  You will soon find out for yourself, especially out there in California; so we will drop the subject."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie now made an excuse to go below, for the very sight of this woman had become intolerable to her.  She opened her trunk, and, taking out a book, kissed it, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear little book, you shall be my companion for the rest of this trip.  You are a thousand times better than that creature calling herself a woman and a lady."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie now read all the time, except during meals.  When on deck she wore a wide sunshade, which, when her head was bent over her book, completely hid her face from view.  She sat a little distance from Mrs.  Lighthead, and avoided conversation with her as much as she could without being rude or giving offense.  Mrs. Lighthead soon began to draw gentlemen around her, with whom she talked and laughed with the familiarity of old acquaintances.  Minnie kept clear of all these persons for some time, until one day Mrs. Lighthead walked directly over to where she was seated, and said, in an affected sort of a way:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Miss Wagner, my dear, Mr. Wild requests the honor of an introduction to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie instantly arose, and, stepping a little aside, courtesied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>457</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"You seem very much interested in that book, Miss Wagner.  Do you never give yourself any time to talk with your friends?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Really, sir, I have no friends or acquaintances on board the steamer, except my escort, Mrs. Lighthead; and I am very much interested in this book, so my time passes as pleasantly as I could desire."</P>
181.sgm:<P>She said all this in a cold, reserved way, and remained standing; evidently wishing to have it understood that she expected Mrs. Lighthead and her friend to move on, and let her resume her reading.  There was no mistaking her wishes, but Wild made another effort.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I have been in California, Miss Wagner, and am returning there again."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, you have?" she said, in the same cold way, still not offering to take her seat.  Mrs. Lighthead now grew impatient, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Let us walk on, Mr. Wild.  Miss Wagner, I see, is impatient to get at her reading."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As they passed on, Minnie resumed her reading, letting her sunshade hide her face more than ever.  As she seemed to read, she said to herself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What impudence that woman has, after I told her not to introduce me to any of her friends, to bring that vulgar, overdressed fellow and introduce him to me.  I fear I am going to have trouble.  I see the ladies are all avoiding her already, and I think they avoid me, too, because I am under her charge.  Yes; I am afraid I am going to have trouble."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The very next day Wild posted himself near her when she sat down to read, and tried to enter into conversation with her; but she only answered in monosyllables.  He knew she had no protector on board, for Mrs. Lighthead was worse than no protector, and encouraged him in his obtrusive impudence; so he moved up close to her, and said, in a familiar tone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why are you so cruel, Miss Minnie?  You are too handsome to be so cold to a person introduced to you by your escort."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie started; her blood ran quickly to her face and back again, and, without answering a word, she rose from her seat to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>458</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"No; don't run away.  Listen to what I say."</P>
181.sgm:<P>She faced straight round towards him; and, while her eyes flashed defiance, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Take your hand off instantly, or I will call the Captain to protect me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He let go, and shrank back like a detected thief; and Minnie quickly disappeared towards her stateroom, exclaiming, as she threw herself into a chair:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What on earth will I do!  I see several nice ladies here.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Shall I go to that nice, old lady they call Mrs. Egbert, and explain how I am situated, and ask her protection?  But if I do that, will not this creature I am with be so outrageously mad that she may defame and denounce me; and how can I convince Mrs. Egbert, in such a way as to make her satisfied to take a decided stand for me; or shall I go to the Captain and ask his protection; but if I do, Mrs. Lighthead may throw out still worse insinuations, and I don't know what sort of a man the Captain is, though I suppose he is a good man?  Oh, mother! Oh, Walter! if you could only be here for ten minutes to direct me!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here Minnie remained in thought for a moment, and now exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; that will be the most dignified way, and the fairest to this woman I am with."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then Mrs. Lighthead entered the stateroom rather excited and flushed, so Minnie had now the opportunity she wanted, and before Mrs. Lighthead had time to speak, she addressed her:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am glad, Mrs. Lighthead, that you have come in.  I want to say to you that that person you introduced to me as Mr. Wild has been most intrusively impudent to me ever since, and follows me from place to place, in attempts to get into conversation, when he knows it is disagreeable to me.  Now, I appeal to you for protection against his advances, for if he persists, I will call on the Captain to protect me, if you cannot do it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are wrong in this whole business, Miss Wagner.  Mr. Wild is a very rich man from California.  I introduced him to you because I saw he was struck with your beauty, and I was in hopes that you would find him an eligible person to be acquainted with, you know; and I must say I think you have treated me badly and him most shabbily."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Now, Mrs. Lighthead, I was placed under your charge.  I would be very sorry to treat you badly, and will not do so; but did I not request that you would not introduce me to any one--rich or poor, man or woman?  I am resolved to be alone on this trip, you know, so we may as well understand each other at once.  So please tell that person not to intrude on me any more."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, you are a silly girl, but I see you are as obstinate as silly; so have your own way, and I will have mine.  My husband is rich, and I am going to enjoy myself.  I don't care who turns up the whites of their eyes at it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Saying the last part of the sentence in a defiant tone, she strutted out of the stateroom.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After this, Minnie was left to herself for some time; but Mrs. Lighthead became more light every day in her deportment, and flirted and romped outrageously with the gentlemen who collected around her.  She often staid with her company on deck late at night, and completely separated herself from Minnie.  Sometimes boisterous men would follow her to the door of her stateroom, and make it most disagreeable to Minnie.  However, she managed pretty well until she got on the Pacific side, when Mrs. Lighthead's conduct became almost openly shameful, and often insulting to Minnie.  Wild became again troublesome, and took the liberty of introducing two or three of his companions, who were as intrusive and impudent as himself.  Minnie was now in the greatest terror, and could not imagine how to act.  While in this state of mind, one Sunday, she sat all alone in a retired little nook on deck.  Her prayer-book was open in her hands, but was pressed against her forehead so as to cover her eyes, from which streaming tears flowed fast.  It was the first time she had yielded in this way since she left home, and now they were tears that came with the earnestness of her supplication to God for guidance and help.  Some one came near here.  She looked up, and there stood one of the two sisters she had often noticed standing or sitting together, and who were treated by every one--sailors and all--with good humor, but with the utmost respect.  They were two Irish working girls, making their way to the land of high wages.  The one now looking down on Minnie said, in a gentle, low voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are in trouble, Miss.  Can I, or my sister, do anything for you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank you," said Minnie; "I fear not; but, then, you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>460</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>So the other sister came, and they now introduced themselves as Jane and Maria Sullivan.  Minnie told them her name, and that she was on her way to her brother in the mines, and how it came that she was put under Mrs. Lighthead's charge, and the terrible way she was now in; that she feared to go to the Captain lest Mrs. Lighthead would misrepresent her; and that, for the same reason, she did not go to any of the ladies for advice.  "So, now, what had I better do, girls?" said Minnie.  "Give me your advice; for, when I was praying for help, you came to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Indeed, Miss," said Jane, "it is you that could give the likes of us advice, and as to the help we could give you, it is very little; but we will put our heads together, just as if you were one of us, and think of what it is best to do.  We--that is, Maria and I--knew all the time that you were good, from the way we saw you keep away from that lady you have the room with; and then we saw you reading from a prayer-book, and Maria found it the other day where you had been sitting, and then we saw you were a Catholic, and our hearts warmed towards you like; and when we saw you crying to-day, all so lonesome by yourself, and you so handsome and young, Maria said: `What a pity!  Go, Jane, and talk to her.'  So that is the way, Miss, we came to interfere with you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! it is no interference at all.  I am most thankful to you; I feel better already."  And Minnie wiped away all traces of tears.  "I know God did answer my prayers."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Jane; "we know each other now.  So let us think.  What do you say, Maria?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Maria; "if I were Miss Minnie here, I would never again enter the stateroom of that woman, for I overheard some talk between her and the two fellows with the white vests, who are always with her; and one of them said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"`I will trap her in the stateroom alone yet, and I will bring down her pride.  I will run the risk of this brother of hers.  My six-shooter is as good as his, and has shot a man across the table before now; and she is the handsomest creature I ever saw, and shall not escape me, I am determined.'"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie trembled all over, and became as white as a cloth while listening to Maria.  Then her eyes lit up with a steady, quiet, brave light, while she drew from her bosom a silver dirk-knife, about four inches long, with a two-edged blade, not more than half an inch wide in the widest place.  It was of bright, sharp steel, and had an ivory handle, with a guard for the hand made of silver, so contrived and bent back that it was a support to the hand, as well as a protector.  It was the well-remembered ladies' protection bowie-knife of "forty-nine."  The sisters started when she showed this little weapon, but Minnie quietly said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Look, girls; my uncle John gave me that when I was leaving home, and showed me how to use it; and bade me never use it, except to protect my life or honor; `and then,' said he, `as a last resort use it, and God will give strength to your arm.'  And I feel that, in such a case, I would be no coward, and that God <HI REND="italics">would</HI>
181.sgm: give <HI REND="italics">strength</HI>
181.sgm: to my <HI REND="italics">arm</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As she spoke and was replacing the weapon, the girls both fixed their eyes upon her with delight and admiration that they could not conceal; and Jane, obeying a sudden impulse, reached over and kissed her cheek.  All three now understood each other perfectly.  No further explanations were necessary.  The only question left was, what had they better do?  Jane said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Miss Minnie, how do you think we had better help you?  We will do anything you say."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Minnie now became reassured, and as brave as could be, for, as she sat between these two poor Irish girls, she felt that she had protectors that insured her safety.  After a minute's pause, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Tell me how you are situated in the second cabin."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Miss, uncomfortable enough.  We are to ourselves, of course; but we have to dress and undress behind a curtain, and every place for a woman in the second cabin is taken up.  All honest women; but some of them are cross enough, and make trouble.  I don't see in the world how you could find a place there, if that is what you are thinking of."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Jane; that is what I was thinking of; but, from what you say, that will not do, and we must think more."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then Minnie saw the Captain standing some distance from where they sat in council, apparently watching them with earnest attention, and evident surprise, she supposed, at seeing her seated between the two Irish girls.  In a moment Minnie's mind was made up; and, whispering to Jane, she said:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Come with me to the Captain."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Without hesitation, Jane obeyed.  A word had never, up to this time, passed between Minnie and the Captain.  Her uncommon beauty had often attracted his attention, but, being under the charge of such a frivolous woman as Mrs. Lighthead, gave him the impression that she must be some runaway girl from a respectable family; so, while he admired her beauty, he pitied her also, as he supposed her lost; yet her great dignity of conduct and manner puzzled him when he thought at all about the matter.  Now a new light seemed to strike him, as he saw her seated between the Irish girls, evidently taking refuge with them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh!" said he to himself: "By Heavens! she is all right, after all, or she never would have thrown herself into that Gibraltar.  Yes; I understand her perfectly now; she has, in that one move, checkmated these rascals that were dogging her, rid herself of that worthless woman who had her in charge, established herself in the good opinion of every one, and secured a guard of honor, with which she could travel in safety all the world over; for, whatever they may say of the Irish, justly or unjustly, there is none to doubt the pre-eminent chastity of their women, high and low, taken as a class; and worthless men are seldom so foolish as to undertake the hopeless task of undermining it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As soon as the Captain saw Minnie and Jane approaching him, he advanced a few steps to meet them; and, raising his hat to Minnie, said, with marked respect:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Miss Wagner, I believe," and continued, as she bowed in assent: "I have not had the pleasure of an introduction, but that is unnecessary.  So, please, young lady, say if I can be of any use to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie was so agitated that she could not at first get her voice when she tried to speak, and was trembling in every limb.  Jane quickly passed her strong arm around her waist, fearing she was about to faint, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Give her a little time, Captain, please, and she will tell you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Please, Miss Wagner, take a seat, and do not allow yourself to be so agitated.  We have plenty of time, and it is my duty to attend to the wants of my passengers.  So, after you rest a little, tell me what you want, and I will, I think, be able to assist you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie sat down by the Captain, and Jane remained standing; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>463</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie now, by an effort, recovered herself; and, looking up to the Captain with an expression of countenance the Captain afterwards declared to have been the sweetest he had ever seen in his life, said, in a voice yet trembling, but earnest and clear:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! Captain; I am so far from home, and so frightened, for I have no protection here; and I want to tell you everything; and I was so afraid, you see, that you might not know that I was telling you just the truth."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Be assured, Miss Wagner, that I shall not misunderstand you; so do not be at all alarmed.  Speak to me as you would to a friend; for it is my duty to be a friend to each and every passenger on board this steamer."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now, Minnie, in her own gentle way, told the Captain, as she had told the girls, how she came to be with Mrs. Lighthead, and the terrible life she was leading with her for the last ten days, and how she formed the acquaintance of the two girls; and that they had offered to protect her; and that, if it were possible, she wanted to get some room or safe place, where she could sleep and stay with them for the rest of the voyage; and that she was well provided with money, and would pay for this accommodation; and for which, besides, she and her brother would be ever so much obliged.  She then told who her brother was and where he was in business, and taking from between the leaves of her prayer-book Walter's letter, just received before she left home, she handed it to the Captain, with a request that he would read it.  The Captain assured her that the reading of the letter was unnecessary, but that he would do so to please her, at his earliest convenience, and then return it.  He further assured her of his full approval of the move she had made, and that she might rely on his protection.</P>
181.sgm:<P>He then went to see the Purser, and soon returned with the news that an arrangement could be made to give a state-room to Minnie and her two friends, with the right for the girls to take their meals in the cabin at the second table.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie was now truly happy.  That afternoon, under the orders of the Purser, her baggage was removed to its new location, and the two girls were installed with her.  Minnie's story ran fast among her fellow-passengers; and soon she became the object of interest and praise.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"I knew all the time," said one lady, "that she was all right."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said another; "I did, too, and pitied her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, then, mamma, why did you forbid me to go to talk to her the other day, if you knew she was all right, as you say," said a nice girl of sixteen to her discerning mother.  "Or, why did not some of you go and offer to help her, as those Irish girls did?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are not old enough to understand these things yet, my dear.  It was necessary for Miss Wagner (I believe that is her name,) to place herself right before any of us ladies could go near her.  That she has now done; and, of course, we are willing to take her by the hand."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But she won't want you now, mamma; and I cannot, for the life of me, see why some of you who praise her now, and who saw all the time that she was good, did not do what those Irish girls did, when you saw her fairly driven out of her stateroom by the conduct of that woman."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! child, you don't, I tell you, understand these matters; so say no more about it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mrs. Lighthead was furious at Minnie's leaving her, and went to the Captain in a rage.  The Captain was seated quietly reading in his office when she appeared before him.  He raised his head from his book, but never moved his position, as Mrs. Lighthead commenced:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain, did you sanction that young girl leaving my protection and going off with those Irish women?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I approved of the course Miss Wagner took, Mrs. Lighthead.  Did you wish anything else, madam?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain spoke in a slow, measured tone, without a muscle in his face moving, while his eyes were fixed on Mrs. Lighthead's countenance.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain, my husband is a rich man, and lives in San Francisco, and I will report this conduct of yours to him; for, of course, that conceited hussy of a girl leaving me for such company is an insult to me, sir; and I will report it to my husband, sir.  You can depend on that!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The last man in the world, Mrs. Lighthead, that you want this matter discussed before, is your husband," the Captain said, in the same quiet tone, still holding the book open before him, while his eyes were bent on his visitor with a half-contemptuous look gleaming out of them.  "But if you wish it, I will go with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>465</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:you to him, and I will take a <HI REND="italics">witness or two</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As the steamer neared San Francisco, Mrs. Lighthead was seen to approach the Captain, and have some earnest words with him, appearing to use her handkerchief freely, as if to stop flowing tears.  The interview seemed satisfactory to her, and, just as she was leaving, the Captain was heard to say:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right; you have nothing to fear from me, Mrs. Lighthead."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So let us hope that Minnie's heroic conduct not only got herself out of a great difficulty, but also saved from utter ruin the poor, weak creature under whose protection she had so unfortunately been placed.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Wild and his friends never again tormented Minnie; and the two Irish girls watched and cared for her as if she was something sacred.  She sat between them on the deck, and amused them either by talking or reading to them.  She would not go to the first table to take her meals, but waited for the second, and sat between them.  A rather homely young lady, observing this, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I do believe she does that to show off her beauty, for I confess she does look charming seated there between those great, strong women; and I see the gentlemen all making excuses to pass by her so as to have a look at her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But how is it," said another, "that now that all the ladies and gentlemen are trying to get acquainted with her, she avoids them as much as we avoided her before?  This, surely, does not look like trying to show off her beauty."</P>
181.sgm:<P>After a few days, Minnie was left entirely undisturbed with her two friends, until the steamer dropped anchor in the bay of San Francisco.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>MINNIE'S PLAN TO MEET HER BROTHER.</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was ten in the morning when the steamer in which our little heroine came passenger reached the wharf in San Francisco.  In the confusion and rush that ensued no one seemed to notice Minnie or her two faithful companions.  Oh, with what intense anxiety did Minnie watch the face of every man that rushed on board; but two hours passed, and no Walter came for his pet and darling sister.  A terrible fear took possession of her that some accident had befallen him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, girls, what <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear Miss Minnie, do not forget so that God is with you.  Do as you did before; do what looks right for you to do, and He will take you through all safe, you know, Miss Minnie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Jane, you are right, and this is no time to be a coward.  What is the name of the boarding-house you were directed to by the friend who wrote to you from Stockton to come to California?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jane then took a letter out of her pocket, and read from it the following:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"When you get to San Francisco go to a boarding-house kept by one Nicholas Donnelly and his wife, in Jackson street, a little below Montgomery street.  She and her husband are good people, and will soon get you a place, and if they do not, write to me, and I can get you lots of places up here.  If any one asks you to marry them, don't do it until you know who you are marrying, for there are some great rascals in California, as well as lots of good men.  I am going to be married to a nice farmer myself next week."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jane laughed as she read this last part of the quotation, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"She need not have said that about getting married, for I am <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>467</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, girls," said Minnie, "let us all three go to this boarding-house, and I will leave a note here with the Captain to give to my brother, if he comes, to say where he can find me, and, perhaps, he will come some time to-day or to-morrow."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And so it was arranged.  Minnie found the boarding-house a rough place.  Donnelly was a rough specimen of good nature.  He had a good, kind heart, and was zealous and active in getting good places for girls who put up at his house.  The wife was very like her husband in every respect; a bustling, active, honest Irish woman.  When Mrs. Donnelly's eyes rested on Minnie, she stopped short, and a look of surprise appeared for a moment on her face, and then, turning towards Jane, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Your friend, I suppose?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Jane, promptly.  "This is Miss Wagner, waiting for her brother; she came with us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that is all right."  And, turning to Minnie, she continued: "I am afraid, Miss Wagner, you will find this house a rough place for you; but you will be safe, anyway, until your brother comes for you, and you know people like us cannot keep a fine house here in California, where everything costs so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The house is good enough, Mrs. Donnelly, for me, or any one; and I am perfectly content to be in a safe place, as you say, with my friends, until my brother comes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>There was something about Minnie's voice and manner that attracted every one; so, as Mrs. Donnelly hastened away to get her guests something to eat, she said to herself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"She is a sweet darling of a girl, surely.  What a pity if the poor thing gets a bad husband out here!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>After dinner, Minnie wrote to Mr. Allen, telling him of her arrival, and asking him if he knew anything of her brother's movements.  Mrs. Donnelly's little son took the note, and soon returned with this endorsement written on the open note:</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mr. Allen and Mr. Wheeler both being absent, I opened this note, and wish to say that we have heard nothing from Mr. Walter Wagner lately, although I find a letter from him to our firm on file, in which he says that he expected soon to be in the city.<HSEP>E. F. BAKER, Bookkeeper.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie had no acquaintance whatever with any one of the firm of Allen, Wheeler &amp; Co., but Mr. Allen himself; so, of course, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>468</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>This further excited poor Minnie's imagination, until now she was in a perfect fever of anxiety.  To add to her troubles, both Jane and Maria were that day engaged by ladies, who had called at the boarding-house, on hearing of the steamer's arrival, and the girls were to take their places the next day.  Minnie made inquiries as to the possibility of her proceeding to Downieville without an escort, for now she was willing to run any risk that was not actually improper to get out of her present position and find Walter safe.  Mrs. Donnelly said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Miss; I think not.  There is such a crowd of men on board the steamer every night--a perfect jam--and very few women.  If you were once as far as Sacramento, I think you could get on from there, for men in California take a pride in protecting women who take care of themselves; but they couldn't understanding a girl like you being alone on the steamer.  But from Sacramento up you would be almost sure to fall in with some family going to Downieville."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Would not the Captain protect-me-on the steamer?" asked Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It would not do, Miss, to depend on it.  The Captain is rushed to death with all the duties he has to perform, and he would tell you that you had no right to go alone on the steamer."</P>
181.sgm:<P>That night Minnie hardly slept two hours, and when she did sleep, she saw in her dreams Walter lying on a bed of sickness, calling to her to come to him, and at other times she saw a Sydney ruffian murdering him.  She arose, tired and half-sick with anxiety.  The girls were to leave her in the afternoon.  What was she to do?  As she walked up and down the little sitting-room, she stopped suddenly, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; I will do it, if Mrs. Donnelly and the girls do not say it is wrong."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Calling to Jane and Maria, who were dividing their clothes and getting ready for their places, she said:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Girls, I have just thought of a plan to get as far as Sacramento, if you and Mrs. Donnelly do not think it out of the way."  They called Mrs. Donnelly, and Minnie told them her plan was to disguise herself as a boy, and in that way reach Sacramento unnoticed.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I dislike it, of course," she said; "but anything is better than remaining here while I believe my brother must be lying dangerously sick, or he would have been here.  I am half-sick now from horrid thoughts about it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Both the girls, without speaking, looked towards Mrs. Donnelly, and Minnie turned towards her also.  Mrs. Donnelly remained in thought a moment, then said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I do not like it, either.  It is, in the first place, running a terrible risk; for, if you were discovered, nothing but a miracle could save you from worse than death; and then we all dislike doing such a thing, we hardly know why.  But, at the same time, this is California, and we all run great risks in one way or another, and almost always come out right when our intention is good; and we all, too, do things we dislike in California, and when we intend no wrong it is no shame to us; so, taking your difficulty into thought--and I see you are almost crazy about your brother, and it may be that he does want you, sure enough--so I do not see why, if you can fix yourself up pretty well, your plan would not be best for you, if you only have the courage to carry it out without being found out."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So, after some further conversation, all agreed to Minnie's dangerous plan.  Mrs. Donnelly and Jane went to a clothing store near at hand and purchased a full suit of boy's clothes, including a slouched hat, a sort of a loose overcoat, and a light pair of boys' boots.  The great difficulty to manage was Minnie's immense head of hair; but, after several experiments, they tied it close back, and, doubling it up once, let it fall so as to be concealed by the overcoat and wide-brimmed hat.  They then darkened her eyebrows and complexion with flour scorched brown.  Thus rigged, all declared the disguise complete, and that by a little caution it would be impossible for her to be discovered.  Mrs. Donnelly recollected that she knew a girl working at the Eagle Hotel in Sacramento, and, giving her name to Minnie, advised her to put up at that hotel, and to mention her name to the girl, and she would find her a friend.  Mrs. Donnelly's son had procured a ticket for the steamer Senator, going <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>470</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>So when the hour came, everything being ready, Minnie took a most affectionate leave of her two faithful protectors and Mrs. Donnelly, who all blessed her and prayed for her safety; Mrs. Donnelly's son went with her as far as the wharf, and Minnie, with as bold a step as she could assume, walked on board the boat, and aft on the promenade deck, and seated herself, looking out over the stern of the boat.  Not one had seemed to notice her in any way, and she felt perfectly secure in her disguise.  The boat shoved off from the wharf, and, as the steamer plunged her way through the bays and straits into, to Minnie, the wondrous Sacramento river, she enjoyed all the new scenery with intense delight.  She had dreamed over and over of it all, and yet the reality did not disappoint her.  The evening air was bracing and invigorating, and her strength and courage arose as though stimulated by champagne; even her heretofore anxiety about Walter seemed partly to vanish.  The noise and bustle of the immense throng of passengers, almost all of whom were rough-looking miners, were somehow pleasing and exciting to her; and she exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"So this is California, in reality, that I am now fairly in, I may say.  Well, I like it already.  It is glorious.  Oh! how happy I shall be when I am away up there in the mountains with Walter.  Yes; in my dreams of it all, I never felt so charmed as this.  Oh! dash on, dear Senator, and let me be entirely happy.  Yes; I want to get to my dear brother Walter, away up on some high place, such as he has often written to me of, where I can look down on this dear California, so as to admire and love it altogether.  Oh! I am so glad I thought of this plan to get on, for no one can ever suspect who is here in these clothes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Minnie!  Little did she dream while thus giving away to the natural excited feelings of her young heart, that the night just now closing in and enveloping everything in darkness was to be to her a night of horror never to be forgotten.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>RICH GOLD DIGGINGS--JOHN WARD.</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was some two months after Walter dispatched his letter to Minnie, giving her such a glorious description of his location, which he made as poetic and attractive as possible, because he knew her tastes well, and he wished that, when thinking of him, her thoughts should be all pleasant.  He had also in that letter expressed the greatest wish that she and his darling mother should be with them.  This he had done without any expectation that it was possible for the wish to be realized just yet, but to intimate that he looked forward, with hope, to the day when it could be realized.  It was, as I have said, about two months after he had dispatched this letter, that one day, on visiting Downieville, he observed a crowd collected near the postoffice, gathered around a tall miner, who was apparently showing them something.  Walter approached, and found it was a man just returned from some newly-discovered diggings, and that he was showing the crowd about four ounces of placer gold.  As the cup with the gold passed from hand to hand, there were various comments as to the sort of diggings it must have come from.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Where that was got there are bushels more, I can tell you, boys," said one.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am not so sure," said another.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Give me the diggings where the gold is fine, as in the Feather River, for instance.  The fine-gold diggings are always more permanent, and therefore better in the long run."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You may be right in that," said a third, "but I tell you many a man will be made rich in the diggings where that was found, or I am fooled mightily."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, gentlemen," said the owner of the gold, "I had been prospecting for nearly a month when I hit on the claim out of which I took this gold.  I will make four of you, and only four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>472</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>This proposition was applauded, and four men soon stepped out of the crowd to accept the offer for choice claims.  The miner looked at the men offering to take his proposition, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am not acquainted with you, boys, but if Walter Wagner here will go your security, I will accept you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Jake; I know them all, and it is all right.  I will go their security," said Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, boys, get some one to write down the understanding for you, and let Wagner put his name on it, and we will make our preparations to leave camp."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then a tall, fine-looking man, in a gray suit of clothes, who had been examining the gold with all the rest, and who evidently was a new-comer to the State, and not a miner, said, in a pleasing, friendly voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If you wish, boys, I will do the writing for you, as I have nothing much to do."</P>
181.sgm:<P>They went with him to Adams &amp; Co.'s Express office, got pen, ink and paper, and in a few minutes the stranger had the agreement drawn, beautifully written and well worded.  All were well pleased.  The principals signed the agreement, and Walter was sent for to sign the guarantee.  Walter appeared, and, as he read the agreement, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, this is done in good shape, and beautifully written.  Who is your scribe?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I wrote it," said the gentleman in gray clothes.  "I am glad it pleases you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter, for the first time looked at the stranger, and was most favorably struck with his whole appearance.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Excuse me," said Walter, as he bowed to the stranger.  "The reason I asked was that I did not know any of our boys who could have put this little agreement in such good shape, in so few words."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter signed the paper, and Jake, addressing the stranger, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Come, General, suppose you put your fist to the document as a witness."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"With pleasure," said the stranger, as he took the pen, and wrote in a bold hand: "John Ward."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jake now took out of his buckskin bag a curiously shaped specimen of gold, weighing perhaps an ounce, and reaching it to Ward said: "Here, General; take this.  It is not much for your trouble, but it will do to show your friends at the Bay, as a specimen of our Downieville diggings."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, as to taking anything for my trouble, I did not intend to do that; but I confess I would like that curious specimen, so I will take it, Jake, and always think of you while I am showing it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward said this in the familiar, pleasant way miners were in the habit of speaking to each other in the very first moment of their acquaintance.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now one of Jake's new associates called out: "Come, General Ward, and Mr. Wagner, and all of you, into the saloon across the way, and have something to drink to close up this business in our miner's fashion.  That's what brings luck, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So all laughed in good humor, and crossed the street to the saloon.  Some called for "whisky straight;" others for ale; others for a punch, and so on in every sort of variety, until all had chosen their drink.  Walter called for a cigar, and Ward followed his example.  After some general conversation, in which Ward freely joined, he said: "But, boys, why the mischief do you call me General, for I am no General?  I am a Captain, though, for I am master of the English bark Blue Bell, now anchored in the bay of San Francisco, and, having nothing to do, I have just taken a run up here among you with my friend here, Frederick Brown, who is a sort of an old miner, just to see how you do things in the mines."</P>
181.sgm:<P>At this, some one else called for drinks in honor of Captain John Ward, of the bark Blue Bell, and his friend, which were drunk with evident satisfaction.  Ward and Walter happened to leave the saloon together, and, while walking back to the express office, smoking their cigars, entered into conversation.  Ward had remarked that Walter was evidently one of the most prominent men of the district, and now exerted himself to the utmost to produce on his mind a favorable impression of himself.  On reaching the express office, they sat down together and chatted for over an hour.  Walter was perfectly charmed with his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>474</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh! you know I am a sailor, and climbing is my profession."  In two days after this occurrence, Captain Ward and Mr. Brown made their appearance at Wagner &amp; Hilton's store, in High Canyon.  Walter received them both in the most cordial manner, unsaddled their horses,and unpacked a mule they had led with them, freighted with blankets and provisions; then staked the animals out on good feed near a little mountain stream, where the grass was yet green.  Then, leading the way to the store, he introduced both his friends to his partner, and ordered the Chinaman cook to get up the best supper he could.  They had some fine venison on hand; so, in a reasonable time, the Chinaman laid before them a very good supper for hungry men to do justice to, and Mr. Hilton declared that the Chinaman did better in this instance than he had ever known him to do before.  After supper, each one threw himself into the easiest position possible to converse, or listen, as the case might be.  Walter commenced by saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain, why did you bring that pack animal?  Did I not tell you that we had blankets and enough to eat, not only for ourselves, but also for friends who should favor us wish a visit?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh!  I understood all that, dear fellow, perfectly well; but this is the rig Brown purchased for us on leaving Sacramento, and he will have it with us wherever we go, whether we want it or not.  I make it a rule not to act Captain on shore.  I get enough of that at sea, and am only too glad when I can throw all authority off of my shoulders on to some one else, so I let Brown have his own way; and he would have that cursed mule up the hill to-day for no earthly object that I could see but to bother the life out of us, for I had to go ahead and pull him with a rope around his neck, while Brown walked behind the brute, prodding him with a pointed stick."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter laughed heartily, in which Brown and Hilton joined.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"The truth is," said Brown, "I am the best commander on shore; for had I gone by the Captain's ideas since we started on this cruise, we would have been sometimes without supper, and oftener yet without blankets at night; though, of course, I did not fear anything of that sort in this case.  But I thought it might be that, in leaving here, we would not go back through Downieville; and then I thought it would be safer to have our traps with us, for those Sydney ducks are getting very plenty in every locality in the State."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Walter; "and the authorities in San Francisco seem incapable of curbing them in the least.  It is too bad that England does not keep her thieves at home, or out of the way at least; is it not, Captain?  You will agree with me, I know, even if you are an Englishman."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My dear fellow, I agree with you most heartily; and would do so even if I were an Englishman, which, thank God, I am not; for I am Irish by birth."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Irish!  Oh! are you Irish?  I never would have supposed so.  Why, I am half Irish myself, for my mother was born in Ireland."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! upon my honor! is it possible?  Give me your hand, dear fellow.  I thought I cottoned to you, Wagner, in some unaccountable way," said the Captain, rising and shaking Walter warmly by the hand.  Then he added: "But your father.  That name Wagner is not exactly an English-American name."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No; my father said it was Pennsylvania-Dutch name; but I suppose it is not spelled exactly as it used to be.  But, Captain, all this about nationalties I regard as a good deal of a humbug.  There are good and bad men among all.  Don't you say so?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, my dear fellow.  There is a good deal of truth in what you say; but somehow I am glad I am not an Englishman, anyway."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, so am I; and so is a little sister I have, who is the greatest little woman in the United States, if she <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
181.sgm: but seventeen years old; and she is as proud as the mischief of her Irish blood.  Oh, yes," he continued, laughing heartily; "you say a word to her about the Irish and you have her all on fire, and the chances are that, to regain her favor, you will have to commit to memory `Davis' Battle of Fontenoy,' and Emmet's last speech, and repeat them at some Fourth of July celebration."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>476</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>All laughed, and the Captain said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There is nothing I like so much as to see a woman patriotic.  How I should like to know your sister!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Patriotic!" repeated Walter.  "Why, Minnie's patriotism does not stop with Ireland; she is just as fiery about her American origin.  She could listen to father for hours at a time telling stories of the revolutionary days.  Yes; and, to show you how far she goes with it, I will tell you a scrape James De Forest, a friend of mine, got into on one occasion with her.  He and I came suddenly on her one day while she was reading in a sunny little corner in our house, and found her shedding tears over the book.  Of course we thought it was some love-sick novel, and I was surprised, for I knew Minnie did not go much on that sort of stuff.  But, to our surprise, we found the book was `Irving's Life of Washington,' and that the passage that brought her tears of sympathy was the one in which General Green is described, while on his southern campaign, as arriving at a tavern in Salisbury, in North Carolina, after a reverse the night before, travel-stained, fatigued, hungry, alone and penniless, as he himself declared in the hearing of the landlady, Elizabeth Steele; who immediately goes to her hiding place and draws out two bags of money, the savings of a lifetime, and the result of many and many a pleasure and joy resigned, and, handing them to the General, says: `Take these; you will want them, and I can do without them.'  De Forest was always fond of joking and annoying Minnie; so he began to ridicule Mrs. Steele, saying she was a fool to give up her money, and before he stopped he said something disrespectful of Washington himself.  Well, what do you think?  James was never able to make his peace with her afterwards until he committed to memory Washington's farewell address, and then they made up friends."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Where is this James De Forest now?" said the Captain, while he laughed and seemed to enjoy all Walter had been saying.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh! he is in Oregon.  He is getting to be one of the first men there.  Ever since he came to the State he has been going, as the saying is, `slow but sure.'  He is a first-rate fellow.  I wish I had his tact for making money.  I make it faster than he does, but somehow I lose it all again.  I had a letter from him yesterday, and he talks of making a visit East, but says that if my family come to California, he will not go, because he has no near relations himself, and my family are all he cares much about."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How many in your family, Wagner?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Only my mother and sister."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh!  I see," said the Captain with a musing smile, which Walter did not observe, though Brown and Hilton gave a half laugh.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Have you your sister's likeness, Wagner?" continued the Captain.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; here it is."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Walter spoke, he arose, went to his drawer, and produced a colored daguerreotype of Minnie.  The Captain and Brown arose, took it to the best light, and both declared that, if that was a good likeness, she was beautiful.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! as she is not here, and, as none of you gentlemen are likely ever to see her, I may as well just tell you that she is, in fact, much handsomer than that picture; because in the picture Minnie's face is in repose; but it is when aroused in conversation you see her real beauty; and I do think it is very uncommon."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why don't you send for her, Wagner?  This State is now filling up with women, and she and your mother would be such a comfort to you, I should think.  I have only just my mother left of my family, but I am so sick without her, all the time thinking of her, that if I conclude to sell my ship and stay in California, I shall at once send for her to come and live with me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I have written to them, intimating that I want them to come; and the fact is, I should have had an answer to my letter by the last steamer; but I did not get a line.  I know Minnie wrote, for she never forgets to do so since I left home; so I think her letter must have been lost; but I will, without doubt, have a letter by the next steamer, which will be due in a few days.  Then I will know exactly what they think of my proposition."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh!  I would induce them to come, by all means," said the Captain.  "It is too bad to leave a girl like your sister back there, and she must be so lonesome without you."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"That will do, boys, for one night.  Let us go.  I have never sat at a camp-fire of a night in the mountains, since I have been mining, that I have not heard these same stories, or nearly the same, told, always a little differently, of course.  The first time I heard that story of the gold fastened to the skeletons I had no sleep that night, thinking of the dead men with the sacks of gold fastened on them; but, after hearing the same story told in various ways to suit the taste and feeling of the chap telling it, I came to understand the matter; so the next camp-fire I sat by I told the gold dead bones story as having happened to myself.  Not that I was one of the ten dead men, you know; that would be too thin, of course, but that I was one of the men who found the bones; and, by way of varying the story, I left out the sacks of gold altogether.  Well, to my surprise, not one in the camp believed the story, and said I made it up for the occasion.  I saw I had made a fatal mistake in the variation I had ventured upon; and now, when seated among strangers at camp, and it comes to my turn to `spin a yarn,' I often tell that story, but am sure never to leave out the gold in sacks fastened to the bones.  When I find the story is taking, and is sort of new to the crowd, I feel encouraged, and sometimes venture to vary it by saying that I found one skeleton a few yards behind the rest lying on its back across a large log with the head held down by an immense sack of gold-dust fastened around the neck, showing that the poor fellow, weak and almost starved, slipped on the log in crossing, and, falling backwards over it, was choked to death by his load of gold.  And then I point to the moral, `Don't be avaricious.'"</P>
181.sgm:<P>This unmasking the stories just told created a hearty laugh.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But," said our young wag, "you must be careful, gentlemen, when any of you undertake to tell the gold bone story, with my patent edition; for I once nearly got caught myself in telling it.  I had described the log on which I found the skeleton with the bag of gold on its neck, as an immense fallen tree, some four feet in diameter, forgetting that in the first part of the story I had described the whole country, in which we had found the remains, as being without a drop of water or stick of timber for forty miles around.  Just as I concluded, some inquisitive fellow in the crowd called out: `Thought you said there was no timber in the neighborhood?'  I was a little stuck at first, but, recovering myself in time, I said: `Not one stick, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>480</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes," they all said; "the rest was an every day occurrence; but how that log got there was truly wonderful."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now the party broke up, all in good humor, and laughed at the outcome of the evening's "miner's stories."  Walter showed Captain Ward and Mr. Brown to their bed, which was a very comfortable one for a miner's camp.  That night Walter had a strange, troubled dream.  He thought he stood on "Long wharf," at the foot of Commercial street, San Francisco, and that he saw Captain Ward's bark, the Blue Bell, looking just as the Captain had described her, sailing past the wharf, and that Minnie was on board, looking over the side, screaming and calling for help, while Captain Ward stood behind her apparently trying to draw her back.  In an instant Walter leaped into the bay to swim to her, and found himself sprawling out of his berth on the floor.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, a dream!" he exclaimed as he rose to his feet, "and a strange, detestable one at that; but, thank God, it <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Then, as he fixed himself back in his bunk, getting the clothes around him, he said to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My darling Minnie, I hope this dream does not betoken any coming danger to you, or that you are in any trouble.  No, of course; and to think that, because of a dream, would be nonsense; but what on earth made me, even in a dream, connect Captain Ward, who is such a perfect gentleman, with Minnie in that horrid way?  What strange things dreams are!  How different the Captain looked while he was trying to drag Minnie back from the ship's side in a dream from what his natural look is, which is always so pleasing.  In the dream he was just the same in every way he was last night, except that his eyes had a fearful, dark, cruel look in them.  I am glad I awoke so soon, even if I did hurt myself by that confounded jump.  Well, I will tell this to no one, for it might make a wrong impression on Ward as to my feelings towards him, which I would not like, because the fact is, I never before knew a man for so short a time that I have taken such a fancy to."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And now Walter dropped off to sleep again, murmuring: "God bless you, my darling Minnie, and keep you safe."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The next morning after breakfast, Walter took his visitors through the diggings in High Canyon, and gave them an insight into all that was going on.</P>
181.sgm:<P>They pulled up at night at the store, and fared as well as before.  Walter's partner, Isaac Hilton, treated both the visitors politely, but apparently did not fancy them as Walter did.  There was something about them that all the time repelled him, as it were.  He did not give himself much trouble about this, until he saw Walter so fascinated, and perceived from the actions of the visitors that they intended to stay for some time longer.  Then his natural caution induced him to watch their every motion and look with great care and considerable uneasiness; which, however, he tried to hide from observation.  On the third day, as Ward and Brown found themselves alone, Brown addressed his companion, with:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What can be gained by staying here any longer?  What do you expect to make out of either Wagner or Hilton?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Make!  Well, I do not know that I will make anything, but it is too soon to decide.  But, in a general way, I will tell you my plan.  We have very little to do just now, so we are not losing time; and this young Wagner is a fellow of good parts, and he will always have a good deal of influence in any community in which he lives.  I see he takes to me with a rush.  I have made up my mind I will cultivate him; and after awhile I will get him to sell out to this suspicious dog of a partner of his, come down to San Francisco, where his influence among the Americans will help our boys very much without his ever knowing more of us than he knows to-day.  I will then set you up in business with him.  I will get him to send for that handsome sister of his.  I will marry her.  I will then have your store, you know, robbed, and the wind-pipe of this confiding young gentleman slit by some accident, you know.  Then I will propose to my beautiful, young, sorrowing wife to take a trip to sea to soothe her grief, which she will do at once.  I will sail out of the harbor of San Francisco with forty or fifty able-bodied fellows of the right sort, and relieve two or three of the Panama steamers of their gold before the Yankees know their steamers are in danger.  Then I will run south, find a beautiful island in the South Pacific, where I will regularly found my empire, making you my Secretary of State.  There you have my whole plan.  What do you think of it?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Think of it!  Why, as a whole, it is a humbug.  As to your getting this young fellow to sell out, and all that part of it, including the robbing him of his cash, that is all well enough; but what in the devil's name do you want of that girl?</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Want of her, Brown?" said Ward, laughing, and then continuing, in an assumed love-sick tone: "My dear fellow, I am in love with her just from looking at that picture of hers, and from the description her enthusiastic brother gave us of her; and have her, I will; so there is no use in arguing with me.  You will yet see her walking the quarter-deck of the Blue Bell as queen of the ship; and then, when I have found my empire, I will want an empress, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Brown seemed impatient, while Ward talked in this strain, and broke in with: "That sort of talk is well enough when one is in the humor to listen to nonsense, but we have business to attend to now.  I see our boys in San Francisco cannot hold up as you told them to do.  The papers received here last night report two or three more smart little jobs.  They will get into trouble yet, before we are ready to go to sea, if you do not control them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, perhaps you had better go down to the bay and give them to understand that I am not to be trifled with in this matter; while I stay here and carry out my plan in regard to Wagner."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I will go, then; but now let me warn you and give you my opinion.  This young fellow, Wagner, is apparently mild and gentle, though a powerful man physically.  It is easy to see that he loves this sister of his a thousand times better than he loves his life, and I pity the man that ever even looks disrespectfully at her; for, once aroused, such men are tigers not easily overcome.  What you say of inducing Wagner to come to San Francisco is all right enough, because we can handle him, I see, so as to make a good turn out of him; but take my advice and let the sister alone.  Don't bring her near us, or the first time she looks into your eyes, her woman's quickness of perception will read you through and through.  The brother will be put on his guard, and then the worst consequences may follow."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Pshaw! Brown.  Why was it that my mother did not read my father in the way you say?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah! Captain, but this Yankee girl is another sort of being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>483</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Troublesome!" said Ward, with an evident start.  "Well, if they ever do attempt a game of that sort, I will close it up in short order for them.  But, Brown, your talk is all stuff.  Don't you know that I have told you that I swore to outdo my father in every act of his villainous life.  He captured a bird out of a royal cage for his wife.  Do you want me to be satisfied with one born of a convict bird?  No; I followed up Lizzie in obedience to the wolf part of my animal appetite, but the lion must now be fed, and the more beautiful, intelligent, proud and keensighted the girl is, the better I will like it.  Yes; you shall see me take this proud Yankee bird right from under the eagle's wing in spite of all opposition, even if the whole Yankee nation conspired to defeat me.  Yes; I have set my heart on this feat, and I will succeed, or I am not what I supposed John Cameron Ward--Lusk--to be."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, have your own way, Captain; I have shown you the danger; face it if you will, and, if you do succeed, you will sure enough have outdone your worthy father; but do not, in your tactics, forget that there is such a man as James De Forest somewhere about."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No; I acknowledge that he is dangerous, and, as a military movement, I believe I will dispatch some worthy of our gang to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>484</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>That evening the mail arrived from San Francisco, announcing the steamer having arrived.  But to Walter's astonishment and alarm it brought him no letter from home.  However, his partner reminded him that their Eastern mail was often behind-hand three and, sometimes, four days.  This, Walter now recollected, was, in fact, often the case; so he made up his mind to wait patiently a day or two longer.  This evening a letter came to Captain Ward, and, on receiving it, he and Brown walked off together.  As he opened it:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why," said he, "this is from Wild."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"From Wild!" ejaculated Brown.  "Is it possible!  Then the precious rascal is back."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I wonder if he has made much," Ward exclaimed, reading over the contents of the letter for a few minutes without speaking; then, as he read the last paragraph, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Here, I will answer your question by reading what he says in the latter part of his letter."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I made well on the steamer going east, but when I got fairly among the Yankee sharps, I lost nearly every d--d dollar, and had to borrow.  I struck one `sucker,' however, and did not leave him a `red.'  This enabled me to start back in a respectable sort of a way.  I made nothing worth naming on the passage back here, except that I nipped about a thousand dollars' worth of jewelry and five hundred in cash from a California grass widow coming out to her husband.  I knew that sort of stock, and went for her; playing soft with her, I soon got my chance, and improved it as I tell you.  She had the handsomest girl I ever laid my eyes on in her charge.  I played for her, too, and made sure I had her, but she euchred me shamefully.  I will tell you all about it when I see you, and you will laugh at the dodge by which she checkmated me.  On the whole, I am not sorry that I made this trip.  I have learned a good deal among the Yankees.  I would not now be afraid to tackle Jim Becket himself in any game he wishes to start.  The steamer reached San Francisco yesterday, and I am going to Sacramento this evening on the Senator."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Ward; "this is an additional reason why you should be off.  See Wild on reaching Sacramento.  You will undoubtedly find him in tow of Black Dave.  Tell him of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>485</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Early the next morning Brown left High Canyon, shaking hands warmly with Walter, and politely with Hilton.  Ward, taking a good opportunity, that day, while Walter and he were seated on a rock some distance from the store, fell into the most extravagant praises of Brown; saying that he was from Canada, and of one of the first families in that country; that he had some money of his own, but not enough to start a good business.  Ward then said that he intended to advance him whatever money he should want, and concluded by saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I wish, my dear fellow, you could see your way to sell out here, and come down to the bay and go into partnership with Brown; you would just suit each other, and in one year in San Francisco you would make more than you can in five here.  Then I could run my ship in connection with your house, and that would help you, as well as make a very nice business for me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter seemed dazzled at the proposition, and for a moment did not speak; so Ward ran on:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then you could send for your dear mother and sister, and we would form a little society among ourselves that would be perfectly delightful, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Walter, thoughtfully; "that does look as if it would be nice; and then you could run your ship in connection with those belonging to James De Forest's line; and that would be first rate, too."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Walter spoke the name of James De Forest, Ward gave a visible start, and for an instant there was a dark shadow in his eyes.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What is the matter, Captain?" said Walter, looking anxiously.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, nothing, my dear fellow," said the Captain, laughing, and looking down on the seat he had just risen from.  "Something hurt me, and I feared a rattlesnake; but I see it was only a sharp corner of the rock."</P>
181.sgm:<P>After this, they often talked of the San Francisco plan, and each time Ward found Walter more and more attracted by it.  Early one morning, a day or two after Brown's departure, Mr. Hilton took an opportunity of talking to Walter.  He expressed his surprise that Walter should be so carried away in his admiration of Ward.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"I will tell you, candidly, Walter, that I do not share your feelings toward this man; there is something I cannot fathom about him.  I am satisfied he is not what he seems to be.  I have observed him closely, and at times when he supposed himself unobserved, there was an unaccountably disagreeable expression in his features."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, friend Hilton, you are always suspicious of all but those you have known for a life-time."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, friend Walter; you do me injustice in saying that, and all I want in this case is to put you on your guard; there is no harm in being careful, you know, even if you are right and I wrong in our estimation of this Captain Ward."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well, that is all right; depend on it, I will be careful before taking his advice in anything, or trusting him too much."  And so the subject dropped.  As they approached the store together, a boy rode up with a letter for Walter.  It was indorsed: "The express agent at Downieville is requested to forward this letter without delay to High Canyon."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Walter read this indorsement, he turned to the boy, and said, sharply:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"When did this letter get to Downieville?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Last night, sir; but so late we could not send it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter, in evident alarm, tore it open, and read as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>DEAR WALTER:--Allow me to congratulate you on the arrival in your camp of your sister Minnie, who is no doubt now safe with you.  I was sorry I was not at home the day her note announcing her arrival, and making inquiries for you, was brought to our store, but both Mr. Wheeler and myself were absent from the city, and the bookkeeper, who opened the note, knew nothing about you or your sister, and returned the note, only indorsing on the back that we were not at home, and that we knew nothing of your movements.  On getting home to-day, the bookkeeper mentioned the circumstance to me, which surprised me very much; as you had not advised me that your sister was coming out to you.  I went immediately to the boarding-house that I understood the note had come from.  It is kept by a very respectable woman, by the name of Donnelly.  This Mrs. Donnelly then told me of the circumstance which caused Miss Minnie to stop there; which, of course, she has told you all about, and how frightened she was that you were not in the city to meet her; and of how terribly puzzled she was as to what to do; for, as Mrs. Donnelly said: "This boarding-house was no place for a lady like her to stop in, and that she could not go to any other or to a hotel, because she was alone."  So, in the end, she had to adopt the desperate expedient of assuming a disguise in boy's clothes, and starting the next day, that is, yesterday, for Sacramento, on board the Senator.  I am sure she is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>487</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:safe with you; yet I thought it better to write and give you all these particulars; for sickness, or accident, of course, is possible.  The Panama steamer arrived here on the 26th; Miss Minnie left here on the 27th, and should be with you on the evening of the 29th, as, of course, she is; so, present her my warmest regards, and, believe me, yours,<HSEP>EDMUND F. ALLEN.</P>
181.sgm:<P>P.S.--Since writing the above, I met your old friend, DeForest, who has just arrived from Oregon.  I told him that Miss Minnie had come from the East, and had gone up to you yesterday, without giving him any of the particulars.  He tells me that he will go to see you to-morrow; so, you may expect him the day after you get this letter.<HSEP>A.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Walter read the letter, he grew deadly pale, and trembled in every limb.  As he finished he threw it to Hilton, and tried to speak, but his words choked on each other, and, without speaking, he ran to the store.  He pulled down his saddle and bridle from where they hung; then he ran for his revolver, buckled it on, then thrust a bowie-knife in his belt.  In all he seemed in confusion, and unable to control himself.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Hilton rapidly read the letter through, then said, in a calm, half-commanding voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Walter Wagner, be calm; be a man, and listen to me, and do just as I tell you and things may all be right yet."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter stopped up still, and, looking into Hilton's face with a sort of an imploring expression, said, just above his breath, while his lips were bloodless and quivering:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Hilton, she should have been here the night before last."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I know all that, but many things may have stopped her.  She may have concluded to wait for you in Sacramento or Marysville; but I tell you to be a man, Walter.  You believe in God; trust in Him.  I tell you that we will find your sister safe if you only retain your presence of mind and act the man."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter now regained his color, and became perfectly calm under Hilton's commanding words, and proceeded with good judgment in his preparations for an immediate start on the search for his darling sister.  Captain Ward came in, and, on learning the strange news, offered to join the search.  His offer was accepted.  So, leaving a trusty young fellow of the name of Ferris in charge of the store, Walter, Hilton and Ward started down to Downieville, and there procured good, reliable horses.  Now, all ready and armed at every point, they dashed up the terribly steep trail that led, at that time, out of Downieville over the mountain.  Ward had not seen nor heard read any of the particulars in the letter from Mr. Allen, and, therefore, knew <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>488</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, if some fellow has not yet got her, which I do not think likely, I wil have a chance to capture her sooner than I expected.  I will have the whole thing fixed up before that fellow De Forest knows she is in the country."</P>
181.sgm:<P>On, on, Walter dashed.  On reaching the summit, Hilton is by his side, but Ward is far behind, for riding on horse-back is no "quarter-deck" exercise for him.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>DISCOVERY--WILD AND JIM BECKET--IN DANGER.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now, my dear readers, let us return to poor Minnie, and stand by her in sympathy during the terrible night now before her.  There she sits all to herself on the promenade deck of the Senator, leaning over the after guard-rail, looking down on the foaming track of the steamer as it ploughs its way up to Benicia.  The supper bell rings, and Minnie cannot go to eat at the table; that would be too great a trial of her disguise, but she is provided for this, by the thoughtful, good Mrs. Donnelly, and now pulls out of her great over-coat pocket a nice little lunch, which she eats of with a relish, for, as yet, her mind is at rest, and free from all fear of discovery.  While she is eating, the boat stops at Benicia, and now again shoves off into the stream, and dashes on its lonesome way up the dark river.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When the landing was made at Benicia, nearly all those seated in the after part of the boat near Minnie, attracted by curiosity, had left their places to take a look at the landing, or town, which at that time consisted of only three or four houses, or storehouses, close to the water.  Minnie, alone, remained behind; but she was not long alone.  Two men walked aft, and sat down very near her.  They were talking earnestly, and in a low voice.  But the moment Minnie's ear caught the sound of one of the voices, her heart quailed within her, her eyes grew dim, and, trembling in every limb like an aspen leaf, she sank her face between both her hands, resting on the guard-rail, and for a moment was half unconscious, while a cold perspiration started from her forehead in large drops, and trickled down between her cold little fingers and bedewed her whole hands.  Something within her, or near her, seemed now to whisper: "Courage, Minnie, courage; recollect Walter always said you were not only a woman grown, but a great little woman, too."  Then she struggled within <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>490</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Now, Wild, if you do just as I tell you, Jim Becket will find that he has his match to-night, if he never had it before."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, Mack, said Wild; "I will have my eyes on you and catch every sign you make me without attracting Jim's notice; so let us go, or he may get into a game with some other parties."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Oh! what a relief to Minnie when she found herself once more alone.  Obeying the first impulse, she put her hand into her bosom and drew from it her little dagger, looked at it, and replaced it, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; it is all right.  God grant I may never have to use it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The night had now grown very cold, and this place where Minnie sat had become almost frightful to her from the alarm she had just gone through; and, fearing the return of the confederates to council there again, she made up her mind to look for some place more sheltered from the cold, and more retired, if possible; so, she arose, and carefully adjusting her disguise, descended to the cabin, and cautiously looked all around for a sheltered spot to stow herself into.  She soon spied a vacant seat, where she thought she would be safe from observation, and where she could lean her head forward on the rail that guarded the gangway, so as to keep her face out of view.  Taking this seat, she was now as comfortable as she could be under the circumstances.  But the night wore heavily to poor Minnie's frightened heart.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, it was a frightful risk to run," she murmured, "to come here in this way.  I feel now that it would be new life to me if I could get back in my own clothes, even here, and alone.  Oh, yes; I see now that I made a terrible mistake, and that I would be as courageous as a lion, and that I could face the whole steamboat, full of villainous men, if I were only in my own proper garb.  But, now, what can I say, or who will believe that I am innocent, if I should happen to be discovered?  Oh, yes; I see it all, now; for, as my father often said: `There never was a crowd of men together, all so bad as to refuse protection to a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>491</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>483</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>That night the boat ran on a mud bar, either through a blunder of the pilot, or on account of uncommonly low water, and was detained nearly two hours in that position, which made this trip of the Senator a long and tedious one.  As the hour of twelve was past, nearly every passenger, for very few took berths, was stretched on the floor or across a table, or lay on chairs; all fast asleep.  Minnie feared to sleep, and fought it off for a long time; but at length it overpowered her, and now, once upon her, it became heavy and profound, for she was worn out with anxiety and alarm.  The position she had to lie in became painful in sleep, and she naturally, without awakening, turned her head and placed it in a more comfortable position, resting sideways on her hands as they held the guard rail; but, in this move her wide-brimmed, slouched hat dropped to the floor at her feet, leaving her whole head exposed.  The light from a suspended lamp near her shone bright on her beautiful features; so she rested, unconscious of her danger.  In a little while afterward, two men came out from a state-room, where, it was evident, they were engaged in gambling, and advanced to the stairway descending to the lower deck.  Oh, Minnie, one of them is the villain Wild, who, just as he is about to step on the stairway, stops short, and his eyes are now fixed on your sleeping face!  He seizes his companion tightly by the arm, and draws him back, while he places his finger across his lips to denote silence, and whispers in excited exulation:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! it is her, the very girl I told you of, that so dodged me on the steamer.  Oh, she cannot escape me now, for she is in man's clothes, and no one will be such a fool as to give her any help.  If she makes any fuss, I will claim she is a runaway sister of mine.  Oh, I am all right now; she cannot escape me.  I always had my doubts but that she was playing off; for, how could she be with that sort of a woman I found her with if she was all right?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Come," said his companion, "let us take a look at her."  And now both men stood for a moment near her in silence; and, as they turned away, the stranger said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"By the Lord Harry! she <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
181.sgm: handsome, sure enough; but I don't see, Wild, that you have any particular claim on her.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>492</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Not a d--d bit of it; I will never give her up.  I will have her now, or die."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You will, you say?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; I do say so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, let us not quarrel over her, or neither of us will get her.  I tell you what I will do; I will leave the dispute to Jim Becket to decide."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Agreed," said Wild; and they both returned to the state-room.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here they found Jim and another man smoking, waiting for the refreshments Wild had gone to order.  The case was soon laid before Jim, with the whole story of Wild's former acquaintance with the girl on board the steamer, and how she escaped from him, and how it was he who discovered her here to-night.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jim took the cigar out of his mouth, brushed the ashes off, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Go, Wild, and order the refreshments we sent you for; and while you are gone we will all take a look at this beauty, that appears to be lying around loose, waiting for an owner; and, as we refresh ourselves, I will decide the whole question, if you wish to leave it to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So Wild left to order the drinks, and the other three went to where Minnie slept on, all unconscious of her fearful situation.  They each gazed earnestly into her face, and then turned away.  As they entered the room again, Becket said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What a pity!  She is beautiful, and little more than a child in years; and she looks as innocent as an infant in sleep.  Yet, how could she come in those clothes if she was all right.  Poor child!  Some big villain has decoyed her from her home, and if the Devil does not get him, whoever he is, there is no use in having a Devil, that I see."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The third man now put in a claim for the girl, which made Wild look furious.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Becket, after they had half emptied their glasses all around, "this matter is to be left to me to decide, is it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The other three men all assented.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And you promise," continued Becket, "to stand by my decision and enforce it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Wild looked dissatisfied, but, as all the rest agreed to it, he also gave in his consent.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, then; I decide in this way: We all four want the girl--"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All four?" exclaimed Wild, in surprise.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Mr. Wild; I say we all four want this girl; and as each one of us has just the same right to her as any one of the other three, and no more, it is necessary the matter should be decided in some fair way; so I decide that we play another game at cards, and that the winner takes the girl, and that those who lose support the claim of the winner against all opposition."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Agreed, agreed," exclaimed each one, and the glasses were emptied and laid away.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then the cards were dealt, and all entered into the game with intense interest and suppressed excitement.  The game is played, and Wild leaps to his feet in exultation, for he is the winner.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Becket felt sure that he himself would have won, and now looks with puzzled astonishment at Wild; for he is satisfied that in some way he won the game unfairly; but how he cannot imagine.  Becket is the more puzzled, as this is the second time to-night Wild has baffled him at cards.  The man Wild had addressed as Mack had a peculiar smile on his face, while he looked at Wild.  Wild gave him a meaning look in return, and Mack said nothing.  They all now arose, Wild saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, gentlemen, I will go and attend to my girl; and I hope that, in accordance with our agreement, you will all stay near at hand to support my claim of being her brother; for, of course, you know she is my runaway sister."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As they left the state-room, Mack took an opportunity to draw Wild aside, when the others were not observing them, and whispered in his ear:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You don't take me for a d--d fool, do you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, of course not; but hold your tongue, and help me to get the girl to Sally Jones', in Sacramento, and I swear to you I will play a fair game with you to decide which of us shall have her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That is talking sense," said Mack, "and I agree to it; but be careful, for I see Jim is watching us both, and suspects us, and if he discovers our game, we had both better get out of California."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, I understand; and between you and me it must be `honor bright,' or we will both go in."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then Becket and his companion came up, and Jim said to Wild, as he drew his watch out:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"I see it only wants a few minutes of two o'clock, and the pilot says we will be at the wharf in Sacramento in one hour.  The girl will soon awake--what is your plan?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well, this is my plan, gentlemen: When my sister, you know, awakes I will let her know that her brother has found her, and that she will have to come with me to my very respectable aunt's, Mrs. Sarah Jones, you know.  She will, of course, make a fuss, and deny that I am her brother, and, perhaps, call me ugly names, you know, gentlemen, so that my friends, who have long known me like yourselves, gentlemen, will then come forward and corroborate my story.  Then my sister will be rushed along in the crowd, with you three gentlemen here close up to us, and, with my arm gently around her delicate waist until I get her into a hack, and off we go to our aunt's, who will receive her lost niece with open arms, you know.  Yes; my plan will work nicely if you, my friends, will only stand by me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Pretty well planned," said Jim, in a slow, measured voice, while a contemptuous smile was on his lips, and he continued: "I would hate to be able to plan the part of a villain as well as that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No compliments now, Mr. Becket, if you please; you make me blush, and I have a delicate task just before me, which takes all my thoughts, you know.  It is to reconcile my poor lost sister to return to the arms of her sorrowing aunt."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Becket made no remark on this speech, but invited them all to go below and have a drink.  Wild and Mack declined with thanks, just as Jim had expected them to do, so he and his friend descended to the bar.  As soon as they were out of sight, Becket addressed his companion:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Tom, it is too d--d bad to let these two Sydney villains take off that poor girl, whoever she is, and, perhaps, murder her in the end; yet, what can we do?  Our word at play is up for it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Jim, I just think as you do; but, as you say, what can we do?  How can we break our word when once given, even to Sydney ducks."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Look here, Tom, since the first day I ever played a card, I never broke my word when given, as you say, in a game; but these two fellows have played us false in every game they played to-night, though I could not detect them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Tom; "I know that well enough, and they are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>495</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Yes; of course they are.  Well, I tell you what; Tom, let us go back and pretend to give in with good will in helping Wild to get the girl away, and after she awakes let you, on some pretence, manage to have me left alone with her, and I will soon judge if she is some poor child that has only left home for the first time, perhaps, and is not actually bad.  Perhaps she is only making her way to some lover, who has promised to marry her as soon as she comes to where he lives.  By the way she acted on the Panama steamer, by Wild's own account, it looks as if this may be the truth; anyway, if I get an opportunity, I will find out, and, if there is even a chance of her being innocent these Sydney thieves shall never have her while I have a shot left in my revolver; for my blood fairly boils at the idea of a poor American girl being in the power of those vile Sydney villains."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, all right, Jim; let us go back and watch our chances."  On returning on deck, they found Wild and Mack seated a little way off from Minnie, who yet slept, though now she began to be restless and uneasy, and once or twice changed her position.  Becket and Tom assumed a gay, friendly demeanor, and Jim said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Wild, you will have to be very gentle with your girl when she awakes; you must coax her, and assure her you will be her friend; and then let each of us go separately to her and advise her, and I think I can persuade her to trust herself to your protection.  Find out if she has any particular place, you know, she wants to go to, and offer to take her there; and I will then go and tell her you are a first-rate, honorable fellow, and will not deceive her; and all that sort of thing."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I do believe, Jim," said Wild, "that you could do more with her in that way, than any of us; for you have a sort of an honest look, Jim, if I do say it to your face; and she will believe you, I am sure."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Tom; "Jim can manage her better than any of us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, now, if I help you, Wild, you know I will go around to Aunt Sally's in a day or two to see the girl, for she is the handsomest piece I have seen since I left Baltimore."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that is all right, Jim; I will be glad to see you, and you will find that I will not be selfish."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, Wild," said Jim, "we will see what can be done for you when your beauty awakes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then Minnie sat up, and, with a half-frightened start, raised both her hands to her head; and, missing the hat, darted a look to her feet, where it lay.  She snatched it up, and, while replacing it on her head, glanced all around to see if she was observed.  As her eyes rested on the four men, talking, as if in consultation, she distinctly saw Wild's gaze full on her.  A supressed, deep moan, escaped her as she buried her face in her hands, resting on the guard-rail before her.  Again, the terrible fear seized her, and shook her whole frame; again the cold drops from her forehead trickled through her fingers.  "Oh, my God," she murmured, "I believe you to be here in your Almighty power, to save and guard me, just the same as if I were in my own little bed in my mother's house; and I ask and beseech you to save me from harm.  Oh, save me, my God, from dishonor and shame, and in all things else do with me as Thou wilt."  Then, pausing, with her thoughts all on God, she struggled with herself; and, concentrating all the powers of her will, she said, without the least mental reservation: "Thy will, Oh God, not mine, be done."  Then, something again seemed to whisper to her: "Courage, Minnie, courage; God is near you."  She heard a step approaching, and, looking up, Wild stood over her.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do not be frightened, Miss Minnie," he said, assuming a careless, pleasant voice; "I am a friend of yours, only anxious to serve you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie's natural, true woman's courage, ever the accompaniment of conscious innocence and purity, had now regained its place, and enabled her to face the danger upon her, with comparative composure.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Sir, I want none of your assistance; nor will I accept any from you.  You will therefore oblige me by leaving me at once."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I could not think of leaving you unprotected, while you are in that becoming rig, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If you do not leave me, I will call the Captain, and ask his protection."</P>
181.sgm:<P>At this Wild laughed.  "Call the Captain?" he repeated.  "If you do, Minnie, I will have to tell the Captain what you know is true; that you are my sister, running away from your virtuous home in disguise, you know."  And Wild again laughed.  Minnie's cheek blanched, as she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But he will not believe such a wicked story."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Not believe it?  Oh, yes, Minnie; he will believe anything of a girl in men's clothes, you know; and then I have three gentlemen here," pointing to where his confederates stood, "who know you and me for many years, and they will tell the Captain that you are my sister."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, they cannot be such mean villains as to do that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, they are not villains; they are known to be highly respectable gentlemen, and they will tell the Captain that you are my runaway sister; and he will give me men to help me to take you home, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie now seemed unable to control herself, and, rising from her seat, looked every way for a chance of escape.  Her eyes were perfectly wild and almost fierce.  She darted her hand into her bosom, and, while she seemed to catch something there, her gaze rested right on Wild's cowardly eyes.  He comprehended the movement of the maddened girls, and quickly fell back four or five paces, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Miss Minnie, I meant you no harm.  Forgive me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was a derringer he feared, and he knew he dare not draw his own weapon on a woman, even if she was in men's clothes.  His shrinking cowardice came in time to save Minnie.  Her eyes softened, and she said to herself as she withdrew her hand, "No; this is not the time for that," and turning to Wild, she continued aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I tell you, sir, leave me instantly; leave me alone; that is all I ask of you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Wild hesitated for a moment, then said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If you put yourself under my protection, I will see you safe to whatever house or hotel you wish to go to.  If you refuse my protection, I tell you it will be worse for you, now that you are known to be a girl in disguise."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The reaction from the fit of fierce wildness that had just passed over Minnie came, and, feeling half-sick and weak, she sat back in her seat without answering, and again covered her face with her hands in almost despair.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Wild was puzzled how to proceed, and, withdrawing to his friends, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I tell you she will be hard to manage, and I see she has a weapon in her bosom, and as a last resort she will use it, too; but I will not give her up, and have come to the conclusion that the best way will be to wait until the crowd is leaving the boat; then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>498</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, that is a good plan," said Becket.  "But yet, there is some risk about it, and, if you wish, I will try to talk her into going to the hotel under your protection; I believe I can do it.  I will talk as though I had no interest in the matter, but as a friend, giving her advice."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Tom at once saw this to be "a first rate idea," as he said, and, turning to Wild, said: "Come; while Jim is trying his hand in bringing this little charmer of yours' to a sense of her true interest, let us go and get a drink; I am awful dry."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, that is my hand, too, Tom," said Wild, who was evidently excited and nervous, and anxious for a drink, to enable him to regain his composure.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just as they were leaving for the lower deck, Wild caught Becket by the shoulder, and, drawing him close to him, whispered:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mind, Jim, she is armed, I know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Don't fear, I will keep my eyes open," was Becket's prompt answer.</P>
181.sgm:<P>While their drinks were being concocted to each one's taste Wild, yet half excited, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I tell you, boys, I never saw such a look out of human eyes before as that girl gave me.  Oh, I will pay her for it yet.  I have looked into a gambler's eye when we both had our irons, ready cocked, leveled at each other's heads, without flinching a hair; yes, I have shot down my man under just such circumstances; but the look of that girl, I tell you, boys, just took the starch out of me, from my head to my toes; but I will yet bring her in my power, and that look will never be there again."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Tom drank slowly, and amused his companions with long yarns, so as to detain them as long as possible.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jim Becket was a thick-set, well-built man, a little under middle height; and my recollection of him is that he had fair hair, a high forehead above a pair of piercing, bright eyes, that looked always calm, but always searching, while you talked to him; as a whole, he was decidedly good-looking, and had a very friendly expression of countenance.  As he now approached Minnie, she looked earnestly at him, but aroused herself, to be fully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>499</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Young lady, do not fear me.  I come as a friend, and shall ask you a few questions, and, if you can answer them to my satisfaction, I will stand by you with my revolver in hand, if that should be necessary, to defend you from harm.  That you may know why I come, I will tell you that this man Wild, who, it appears, you knew before, discovered you while you slept, and you being here alone in men's clothes made us all believe that you would not be very particular as to who might claim your company; so we played a game of cards for you, and Wild was the winner."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While Becket spoke, Minnie's eyes were riveted on his face, trying to read his inmost thoughts, so as to guide her conduct towards him.  Now, as he told her about the game played for her, she started and clasped both her hands before her, while her gaze was yet steadfast on his face, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, sir, ask the questions; any questions; for you look honest and true, and I will answer all with truth, to which I will call God to witness."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Tell me, then, who you really and truly are; how did you come to put those clothes on, and where are you now, in fact and in truth, going?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie in a quick, decided voice, without changing her eyes from Becket's face, answered the questions clearly and to the point.  As she finished, Becket said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Wagner--Walter Wagner--I do not recollect him.  He was never in my rooms, that is clear; but that is not against him.  Who did you say his partner was near Downieville?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Isaac Hilton," said Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Isaac Hilton; aye, yes, I know him; we traveled together once."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, after a minute's pause, Becket resumed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I can depend, then, that all you have told me is just the plain truth; for, to protect you, I have to do what I never did before, break my word given in a game; nor would I do it now for all the money in Burgoyne &amp; Co.'s bank, but to protect an innocent girl from shame.  I would be justified, and will deal with this villain Wild without fear of consequences, if you are the girl you say you are."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, sir; do not doubt me; every word I have spoken is true, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>500</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Now her face grew calm, and her voice steady, as she continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dead they may hear that I am, but they shall never hear of my shame nor dishonor; for God will not permit that, I know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Becket, full of admiration and deep sympathy, could not at once command his voice to speak; and, from this silence, poor Minnie feared he yet hesitated to become her friend.  A desperate feeling of almost despair again came on her, and, obeying a sudden impulse to make a last appeal for protection, she sprang to her feet, stepped close to Becket, and, placing a hand on each of his shoulders, while every lineament of her features lit up with an expression of intense entreaty, she exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, sir, have you a mother or a sister?  Oh, if you have, by all the love and care they ever bestowed on you, save me!  Oh, save me from dishonor; for, if aught befell me, my mother's heart would break, and my poor brother would wither away and die!  Save me, and I will be to you a sister while life lasts!  Save an unprotected girl, and God will bless and make your last hour happy!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a voice trembling with excitement, Becket said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Be calm and fear not; I will take you at your word.  I am now your second brother, and will save you or die in the attempt."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie's only answer was to grasp her protector's hand, raise it to her lips, and kiss it with wild emotion.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now," said Becket, "we have not a moment to lose.  We are approaching Sacramento.  The moment the boat nears the wharf I will leap on shore to make arrangements for your escape.  And now listen to every word I say, and do not lose a syllable of it.  I will now go down and see Wild, and will tell him that you have agreed to go with him to the Eagle Hotel, if he acts right to you; he will then come and sit near you; tell him that you have agreed to take his protection, provided he acts the gentleman towards you, and makes no disagreeable advances.  Then, when the boat touches, wait a little before you go on shore, but not too long, for I want a crowd on the wharf when you reach it.  When the plank is adjusted, take his arm <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>501</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I understand all perfectly, and I trust you with my life and all, without a shadow of fear or doubt, and will obey you in everything, because you are now my brother."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie spoke in a clear, low whisper, and Becket was satisfied that it would not be her fault if his plan failed.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Minnie," said Becket, "pray to God for help.  He will hear you when my prayers would have no claim."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Becket was on his way down the stairway to inform his friends of his success.  They were all apparently highly pleased.  Becket told Wild that he had pledged his word that he would be gentle and considerate in his conduct while conducting her to the Eagle Hotel.  Wild laughed, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, go to the Eagle Hotel; that is all right.  Don't you fear, Jim; I will play my part well.  Yes; I will be a perfect gentleman until dear Aunt Sally has the door locked behind us both.  Then I will politely take that little derringer, or whatever that is she has in her bosom, away from her.  Oh, yes; I will take that away just to be sure, you know, that Aunt Sally or myself won't require a surgeon, or may be the coroner, at unreasonable hours, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here Wild laughed heartily, and continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Jim; thank you.  Come, let us all have a drink.  What will you all have, gentlemen?  When will we expect you at Aunt Sally's, Jim?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I will not be unreasonable, Wild.  You won the girl fairly; I will call in a week or so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, well; as you say, I won the girl fairly, Jim; and you will be welcome whenever you do come; and by that time my little pet will receive you most charmingly; for she will see that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>502</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Introduce me, Wild."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; come."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Becket looked after them, muttering low to Tom:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"A precious pair of rascals.  If I owed the Devil a thousand scamps, he would give me a receipt in full for those two fellows."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Jim told Tom all about his interview and its result, and his plan of escape, concluding with:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, when they are leaving the boat you stay close to Mack, and when the girl jumps away, of course he will run to help Wild to recover her; and as he springs forward be ready to trip him up, as if by accident, and if in this way you can hold him back a little, I feel sure that all will go right."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In ten minutes more, the Senator was trying to get into her place by the Sacramento wharf.  Becket was a constant visitor to Sacramento, and knew exactly what he was about.  On the first touch the boat gave the wharf, Jim had leaped upon it.  At a little distance back stood three or four hacks in waiting.  On one of them sat a large man, while another stood near its door.  In a minute Jim had his hand on the shoulder of the man near the door, saying, as he peered into his face:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is this you, Jerry?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir, Mr. Jim; it is myself, of course.  You are in a hurry, I see, sir; jump in, jump in."  And he threw the door open.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Jerry; I am not going myself; but listen and mind every word I tell you, for we have not a minute to lose."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, sir; go on, sir."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Jim instructed him in a few but distinct words, saying at the end:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do you understand me now, Jerry?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; and sure I do; what would ail me that I would not?</P>
181.sgm:<P>Give me the handkerchief.  There, now, I am ready.  And where am I to drive her to? for I know the boy is a girl from what you say, Mr. Jim; and sure it's I that always likes to take care of the girls."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"None of your fooling, Jerry.  Listen; I want to get some one who will just step up and knock the fellow down who will be running after the boy, you know."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; and sure it is Tim Finnigan, on the seat here by me, who is just the man we want for that.  Do you only want one knocked down, sir?  He could settle three just as well as one, while I am putting the boy, as you call her, in the hack."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, he may have to let into two of them, but that is the most."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah, well; that will be only fun for him.  Come down, Tim, and get your instructions from my friend, James Becket, Esq., of San Francisco, that I know ever since the first part of '49.  God bless us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now Tim was instructed, and all ready.  Becket then turned to Jerry, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Jerry, when you get the boy in the hack, drive for the Marysville road as fast as the team can take you; but do not take the direct road from here, you know.  Rush round among the streets in any way that you think will throw any one following you off of your track.  When you get clear of the town, you will see a large vacant building with the window sashes out of the front windows, and wait there until I come to you, if I am not there before you.  Now, I must stand out of the way, and leave you, Jerry, to manage all; and depend on good pay, both for yourself and Finnigan."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, if Tim has but one to knock down, he won't charge you much, Mr. Jim; but, for the matter of that, we know our pay is all right from the likes of you, Mr. Jim.  It is handing you back some of it I expect to be, and not asking for more; so God bless you, and leave it all to us, for I understand everything now; and if she, the boy, I mean, only runs to me, as you say she will, and the girls always had a way of running for me, I will meet you where you say, or will kill my horses outright in trying to do so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Becket now took his place behind a pile of lumber, from where he could see all that transpired.  Just as he got into position, the plank from the boat fell on the wharf.  Becket saw Tim Finnigan standing in a pugilistic attitude about four paces in front of the hack, while Jerry, with the white handkerchief tied on his hat, walked carelessly towards the rushing crowd, as they came from the long plank that stretched to the Senator.  Then there was a sudden fuss or rush on the plank, and now a boy dashed out like an arrow, and caught Jerry's coat collar.  In an instant Jerry's powerful arm was around the boy's waist, whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>504</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>PURSUIT--THE VILLAINS FOILED--NEW FRIENDS.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Jerry Brady urged his horses through the streets of Sacramento, in the dark night, with Minnie in his hack, he murmured to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, sure enough, Tim had two to stretch.  That is all right; he will be well paid, I'll be bound; and if I am fined for this fast driving Jim 'll square that up, too; but, sure, the ordinance was not meant for the night time, anyway."</P>
181.sgm:<P>After he had driven at this rate for half an hour, he dropped into a slower pace, and then stopped altogether.  He leaned his head back and down towards the window of the hack, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are all safe now, Miss; so I will drive a little slower.  Them fellows can never tell which way I came.  How do you feel, Miss?  Are you all right, Miss?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank you, I am all nicely, considering everything.  Was there any one hurt in the scuffle, do you think, driver?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no one, Miss, but the fellows that came after you, and Tim Finnigan fixed them two.  Tim is a particular friend of my own; indeed, we are the same as cousins, because the Finnigans and Bradys, you see, Miss, were formerly from the same townland in Ireland, God bless the spot; and, though my name is Brady, my grandmother on my mother's side was a Finnigan, you see, Miss."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do you think those unfortunate men were killed, driver?" said Minnie, with a visible tremor in her voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>`Oh, no, Miss; the deuce a fear of that.  The likes of them never get killed, Miss; they are left on earth, you see, Miss, by a merciful Providence, just to punish us for our sins, glory be to God!  Perhaps, if it was not for that, we could never get to Heaven, Miss; for we would have our own comfortable way, you know, Miss, in everything, and, may be, get too prosperous like, and grow wicked as well as rich.  No, no; these two fellows are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>506</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Where are you to meet Mr. Becket, driver?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, then, I was forgetting; it's a good bit yet, Miss, so I must hurry up."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Jerry, while handing in to Minnie a white handkerchief, continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Please, Miss, keep this for Mr. Becket, as I might lose it out here."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now Jerry cracked his whip and put his horses into a trot, while he murmured to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, hasn't she music in her sweet voice!  I was forgetting myself entirely listening to it.  I could have just stayed there a week if she had not reminded me of what I was about.  I wonder how the mischief she came in that rig, and in Jim Becket's hands; for, the Lord preserve us from harm, he is no saint, no more than some more of us.  But I know she is all right, in some way; for her voice has the good, true sound like about it that you never hear with those other kind, poor creatures!  God help them!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a few minutes more, Jerry exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, there we have the old building sure enough, just as the broad daylight is upon us, and, by the same token, there are the windows all gone from it, and sure there is Jim himself leaning against the fence.  How the deuce did he get ahead of me so?  But sure didn't I travel as good as six miles out of my way to get here the shortest way I could, according to orders?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Yes; it was Becket who now called Jerry:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Hello ! old boy; all right is it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Of course 'tis all right, sir; I never undertake anything that had a bit of fight in it, but that it comes out all right, Mr. Becket."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, you did your part first-rate, Jerry," said Becket, as he drew open the door of the hack and reached his hand to Minnie, while he continued: "How are you, Miss Minnie?  You did your part first-rate, also."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie seized his hand with cordiality, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I am nicely, thank you; and I am glad you think I did well, for I ventured to disobey instructions a little.  I jumped away before we were half over the plank, as I knew the crowd would hold that man back there, better than if I waited to be on the wharf."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, it was capital; and you did your part too, just as agreed on, for Mack fell headlong as he leaped after Wild, and then Finnigan--"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here Jim burst out laughing so that he had to stop for a minute.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, it was too good to see Finnigan lay them out, one after another; and see him step away as quietly as if there was nothing the matter with anybody.  Oh, yes; and then to see Wild and Mack get up and wipe their faces, and ask each other who hit them, and where the hack had gone to."</P>
181.sgm:<P>There again Jim burst out laughing, in which Jerry, and even Minnie, could not help joining.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," Jim continued, "I tell you it was better to look at than any play Tom McGuire ever put on the San Francisco boards.  Well, let us lose no more time.  We can laugh better when we are all through in safety.  After you left I saw our friend Tom, for a moment, and told him to stick close to Wild and Mack, for they do not suspect him, and to mislead them all he could.  I then ran to Big Phil's, and got him to send me here in a buggy by the shortest road he could take, so I have been here these last ten minutes.  Now, Jerry, can your team stand it to go to Frosty Joe's?  If they can, I can get a fresh team there to take us to Marysville."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; they can stand to go as far as that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So, Becket jumped in, and Jerry put his horses again in motion, at a reasonably good pace.  As Jim took his seat in the hack, he said, half-laughing:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah, I see, Miss Minnie, you lost that becoming hat; but it is of no consequence, for you cannot get cold with that immense head of hair, and at Frosty Joe's I will get you some sort of woman's clothes.  I have ordered your trunks forwarded to Downieville by Adams &amp; Co.'s Express."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank you, Mr. Becket; that was so thoughtful of you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, you know I am your brother, now, Miss Minnie; so don't mind thanking me for every little thing I do."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie's eyes suffused with tears, and it was her only answer, but Becket understood her.  A red, lurid light now shaded all the horizon to the East, and brought out to view the great Sacramento plains, through which they were traveling.  Minnie leaned out the window of the carriage, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, what immense plains!  What a strange, red light the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>508</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Before he could answer Minnie's question, Jerry leaned back, and in a hurried voice, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Becket, sir! at the turn of the road here, I looked back, and if I am not mistaken, I see horsemen coming like mad, after us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said Jim, coolly, "it may be.  Miss Minnie, does Wild know where your brother lives?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I never told him, but I am sure Mrs. Lighthead did."  And Minnie trembled, and looked a little pale.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It may be nothing, Miss Minnie; but you must be calm; for all may depend on that."  Minnie was herself in a minute.  Becket thrust his head out of the window of the carriage, and, looking ahead, exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; there is the dry arroyo; I recollect it, with the timber on it.  Jerry, when you have just turned that timber, stop; but don't turn out of your tracks the least bit."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, aye, sir," said Jerry, as he whipped his horses to their fastest trot, and the moment he reached the spot indicated by Becket, he stopped right up.  Becket jumped ont, and, putting his arm around Minnie's waist, lifted her over the dusty part of the road to the side where there was only dried-up grass; then he took a dried willow branch, and with it rubbed out all traces of his own tracks.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Jerry, we will hide here, and you jog on slowly until those fellows pass, and when they are out of sight, come back for us.  I cannot afford to run any risks in this business, and they might be the men we don't want to see just now."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, aye, sir; well thought of, faith; though if Jim Finnigan was here, I would just as leave have a little tussle as not."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Before Jerry got half through talking, he was jogging on, and Becket and Minnie were hid in the timber.</P>
181.sgm:<P>On the horsemen came, at full speed.  Jerry heard them, but never pretended to notice them, until one of them called out:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Stop, or you are a dead man!" And before he could rein up a powerful man wheeled his horse in front of his team and leveled his revolver at his body, while two others, armed in the same way, were by the carriage.  Jerry remained perfectly cool, as he said to himself, "Oh, these are they, as sure as guns, for don't I see Finnigan's mark on that fellow in front of me."  Then aloud he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain, would you be good enough, sir, to turn that iron of yours a little aside, for it might, just by accident, hurt me, if it went off just as you are holding it now."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Who have you got in the carriage?" was the reply Jerry got.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The devil a one, Captain dear.  You can look for yourself, sure; and if it is money you are looking for, this morning, you came, as they say in Ireland, `to the goat's house for wool,' for the deuce a cent I have got, but just this dollar and a half."  And Jerry pulled out three half dollars, and continued: "Mike Kennedy, that owns this team, that keeps the stable, you know, on Third street, gave me this to get my dinner with, and may be a drink or so along the road, so as to pass the time, a sort of like, you know, Captain; but if you and your boys here are a sort of out, not finding any one this morning better than myself, Captain, why you are welcome to this."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain, as he called him, took no notice of his offer.  So he continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I give it freely, and you can take it with a safe conscience.  The Lord be praised, for I can borrow from Frosty Joe a bit ahead here.  He knows me and Mike Kennedy, so you're welcome to it, Captain, if it's any use to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While Jerry had talked on in this way, the men at the side of the carriage had found, sure enough, that the carriage was empty, as Jerry had said, and looked terribly disappointed.  Wild now broke out with:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Shut up your d--d Irish tongue, and answer all questions truly that I put to you.  Did you take us for highway robbers that you offer us that money?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, to answer that question in a polite sort of way, I will just say that you all three look as like the gentlemen you mentioned as two peas do to each other."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"None of your confounded impertinence, I tell you, but just answer my questions.  Did you have any passengers when you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>510</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Get out, did you say?  How could any one get out without first getting in, Captain?  Answer me that, if you please.  I told you, Captain, when you first stopped me, just as if you were highwaymen, that the devil a one I had in the hack.  If what you are after is to pry into men's business out here, I'll just make a clean breast of it.  I am on my way to the Empire Ranch, beyond Marysville a bit, you know, to meet a great friend of Mike Kennedy's; one Captain Ward, and bring him home."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain John Ward!" exclaimed Wild, in surprise, while Mack, who was searching the carriage, gave a start and looked up.  Jerry's using the name of Ward was merely an accident; but he now saw the necessity of sticking to it with a bold front, so he promptly said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, of course, Captain John Ward; who else would it be?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then Mack hauled out of the carriage a white handkerchief; and, as all eyes were turned on it, Jerry continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And by the same token, that is Captain Ward's handkerchief.  He forgot it when I took him and his friend to the Empire Ranch, some time ago, on his way to the upper mines; and I put it in the hack early this morning so as not to forget it.  So please, sir, if it is not much use to you, just lay it back, if you please; for I like to be particular about little things, you know; that is the only way a poor fellow the likes of me can make a decent living."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Mack kept examining the handkerchief, as if looking for a mark or a name, and, not finding any, he was evidently put out, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Damn me! but I believe this fellow here is the very man that ran away with the girl last night, and that this is the handkerchief he had on his hat; for I know that the fellow who took her had something white on his hat, as I had my pistol aimed at it when that devil, whoever he was, hit me such a sledge-hammer blow."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jerry, who was now leaning back in his seat, as if half-asleep, seemed to make an effort to arouse himself to say:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I ran away with a girl, is it you're saying?  Faith!  I hope it is true for you; for there is nothing I would like so much as to have a girl run away with me, or I with her; not a bit of difference, so that I was with the girl some way.  I have asked every girl I saw since I have been in California to run away with me, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>511</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Whenever Jerry dashed off into one of these talks, he plainly saw one of the men taking a side look at him, in which there was a humorous, encouraging expression.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said he to himself, "that must be Jim's friend that he called Tom, when he was talking about him to the young lady.  Yes; I see now, and if the worst comes to the worst, we will have three against two."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As he finished about his wife prospects, Wild said, savagely:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I told you before to shut up your d--d Irish tongue, or I will silence it for you with this revolver.  I tell you now, don't speak except when you're asked a question."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain, that is not the way to speak to an American gentleman.  I have got my full papers; so, just say, if you please, `Your d--d Irish-American tongue,' and that will be addressing me like a gentleman."</P>
181.sgm:<P>At this Tom laughed heartily, while Mack growled out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Don't notice the d--d fool.  For my part, I think Becket and the girl are near here somewhere.  Let us ride back to the timber, and see if there are any tracks leading into it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>All three now turned to go, and Jerry thought he saw a sign from Tom to follow them, so he called out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain, may I go on; I have a long journey before me, you know?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Don't you stir, or I will follow you and blow the top of your head off!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, then, as I can't well spare that just yet, I will stay with you."  And, turning his horse, he trotted after them back to the timber, singing as he went, "The Widow Malone," at the top of his voice, taking care while he was singing to examine his revolver, saying to himself as he finished his song:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"It would be no sin at all to bury these two curs right here."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Wild and Mack now examined the dust on the road with great care; but not a track leaving the place where the hack had passed was to be found.  On pretence of taking a look under Jerry's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>512</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I was thinking if we may not just as well bury these villains here.  Surely the only thing that would ever miss them is the gallows."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Tom answered: "No, no; that won't do."  And then, turning around to Wild, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I tell you we are losing time in fooling with this deuced Irishman."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Irish-American, if you please, sir!  I told the Captain there that I had my full papers as an American gentleman."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Wild and Mack now seemed to hesitate as to what it was best to do; so Tom coolly said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If you wish to take a run through the timber there, I will stay here and hold the horses, and take care of this Irish-American gentleman, and, if I hear any one fire on you, I will go to Sacramento and give the alarm."</P>
181.sgm:<P>That was putting the business in a new point of view, altogether; but neither Wild nor Mack said a word, and seemed utterly at a loss how to act.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," continued Tom, "you need not be in the least afraid, for I am certain no one is in the timber; so go right in if you wish to fool your time."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Wild, "let us ride on; we can stop at Empire Ranch and be sure to overhaul them there, because there they will have to take horses to go over the trail to Downieville."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just as they were starting, Jerry called out: "Captain, you would'nt have a little flask along, with a little taste of something good in it?  I am awful dry from all the talking you forced me to do, when I was trying to hold my tongue all the time, so I was."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; let the deuced Irish-American have a pull at the flask," said Tom.  Mack reluctantly handed the flask to Tom, who passed it over to Jerry, who said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Mister; that is the genteel way of calling my name."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jerry drank, and, as he handed back the flask, said: "Faith, I tried to act decent, gentlemen, with it; but it was so a kind of oily, that, by the hokey, it all slipped down, Mister."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Tom burst out laughing, but Wild looked savage; and, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>513</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Jerry now gave a long, shrill whistle, by putting one of his knuckles between his lips.  Becket at once made his appearance, and then Minnie followed.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, they are gone," said Jerry, bursting out into another fit of laughing, that shook him all over.  Becket and Minnie looked at him in half-surprise.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said Jerry, "saving your presence, Miss, the devil a drop I left them in the flask.  I was going to act a kind of decent, but your friend Tom winked at me, and I knew what that meant, so down I let it all slip.  Oh, if you could have seen those other two fellows when they saw me turn up the bottom of the flask high in the air to let the last drop go down!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>And again Jerry laughed and laughed, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You bet they will not want to meet with another Irish-American gentleman!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Jerry, if that has not made you drunk, just tell us what passed."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Drunk, Mr. Jim; not a bit of it; it made me feel good, that is all; for I was a kind of down-hearted before to think of those precious scamps putting us about so; but business is business; so here is what your friend Tom whispered to me when our two heads was down low under the seat of the hack; said he: `Tell Jim not to go to Marysville until to-morrow; then he will have plenty of good company to go with him over the trail to Downieville; and tell him I will leave these two scamps at Marysville, and return to Sacramento by the boat to-night.'  That is every word he told me to tell you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Becket now remained in thought for a minute, then said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; that is the best to do."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He then explained to Minnie that just ahead of them there was a road that turned off to the house of a Colonel William Eaton, who lived about two miles from the turn; and that this Colonel Eaton was a fine old Kentucky gentleman, with whom he was well acquainted; that he had a most sensible lady for a wife, and one daughter of about Minnie's own age.  Becket continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I served a brother of his once, when he was in great need of a friend, and the Colonel has often expressed to me his good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>514</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said Minnie, "it is so terribly mortifying to appear in any family in this way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I know, Miss Minnie, it is as you say; but we have to face it now somewhere, and I know of no family I would rather state the case to than that of Colonel Eaton."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, you know best, of course; and I will do just what you think best."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will leave you in the carriage," said Jim," until I have had an interview with the Colonel and his lady; and if there is the least hesitation, I will not urge the matter on them, but come right away."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So Minnie was satisfied, and Jerry put his horses on their fastest trot, and they were soon at Colonel Eaton's gate.  Becket went in, and was received most warmly by both the Colonel and his wife.  He sat right down, and gave a short history of Minnie's troubles on the passage from Panama, and how she was virtually abandoned by her escort in San Francisco, and how her unprotected position induced her to adopt the disguise, and what came of her doing so.  The wife and daughter could not help shedding tears of sympathy, and even the old Colonel was much excited.  So Mrs. Eaton, taking a large shawl in her hand for Minnie to throw over her, went at once with Becket to the carriage.  Without waiting for Becket to do so, she drew the door open herself, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Come, my poor child; I want no introduction.  Mr. Becket has told me all about you.  Come as you would to your own dear mother."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This warm address, and Mrs. Eaton's kind, motherly voice, and the allusion to her own mother, at once overcame Minnie.  Every hour since she left her home had been full of anxiety and constant watchin, and for the last fifteen hours every nerve had been strained to its highest pitch of endurance.  She was even now waiting anxiously, almost with fear, to hear the result of her friend Becket's appeal for protection for her.  Then, unexpectedly, the voice as of a mother's love, full of tender sweetness, filled her ears, and threw the flood-gates of her heart wide open, before she could command them.  In a moment more, her arms are around Mrs. Eaton's neck, and she is sobbing in a fit of uncontrolled weeping.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, calm yourself, my dear child; calm yourself; come, come with me," said Mrs. Eaton, as she threw the shawl over Minnie, and with her arm around her waist moved her gently on towards the house.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said Minnie, as she found herself safe in Mrs. Eaton's bedroom, with the mother and daughter standing near her, "I fear you think me nothing but a poor, weak child, but this is the first time I have acted this way since I left home.  But, oh, Mrs. Eaton, you looked and talked so kindly, and so like my own dear mother, that I could not hold out!"  And Minnie sobbed, and sobbed again.  "And, oh, I have had such a terrible night; but, thank God, it is all over, now, and I am safe here with you, thank God! thank God!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear; you are perfectly safe; so try and calm yourself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, I know I am safe, and the recollection of last night now hangs about me like that of a hideous dream."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now Miss Fannie came forward in the sweetest way, and, stooping, kissed Minnie, and said: "My dresses will fit you, I know, for we are just about the same height and size."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank you; what a tax I will be to you, but how delighted I will be to throw off this hideous disguise."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Miss Fannie said she was no tax at all, but that it gave her the greatest pleasure to supply her wants; so she laid a full suit of her clothes in readiness for Minnie, and now mother and daughter again kissed her and left her alone, saying they would return when she was dressed.  As soon as the door was closed, Minnie dropped on her knees, and with her whole heart poured out her thanks to God for her deliverance from the horrors of that night.  As she commenced to dress, she said: "Why, how nicely every article fits me, just as if it was made for me.  Oh, it appears a month since I laid off my own clothes at Mrs. Donnelly's yesterday.  What a terrible mistake I made; but I did not do it intentionally, and God has saved me; but, whatever I did, as I just said to Mrs. Eaton, there appeared to be danger in it; that is the way I came into the trouble."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Fannie's gentle voice at the door came to announce breakfast, and now, as the two girls appeared in the breakfast-room, arm in arm, every one present came forward to shake hands with Minnie and congratulate her.  Oh, that was a proud morning for Jim Becket, and he often afterward declared that it was the happiest of his life.  When honest Jerry came forward, Minnie, with glistening eyes, grasped his hand, saying:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Jerry, oh, how can I thank you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No thanks at all, Miss.  Isn't it I that should be asking your pardon for the quick, unmannerly way I thrust you into the hack last night, without saying, "By your leave, Miss?"  But, you know, Miss, Tim Finnigan might, by a chance, though, to do him justice, I must say he seldom does make a miss blow, and in that case time might be a little short, you see, Miss, to make polite speeches; so I left them off until we had a more convenient time, you see, Miss."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh Jerry, you were very kind and gentle and good to me all the time, and I am proud this morning, Jerry, that I am half Irish myself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And am I not proud, too? for that is just the same I am, `half-and-half,' you see, Miss; for haven't I got my full papers making me an American citizen, as I told that Sydney thief last night?  But he would call me out of my name; but, oh, didn't I pay him back, Miss, when I got hold of the flask?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>And now Jerry stood laughing at the recollection.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How mad he looked when he saw me turning the bottom clear up.  I had my eye on him all the time.  Oh, you bet that fellow will never want another argument with an Irish-American gentleman like me.  He swore so, Miss, that I was glad you did not hear him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now all joined in merry laughing, and Minnie's glistening eyes were clear and bright again.  Colonel Eaton particularly enjoyed Jerry's humor, and after breakfast made him rehearse for him, and all the farm-hands, the scene of the rescue and of the flask, until all were tired of laughing.  Every one did ample justice to Mrs. Eaton's excellent breakfast, which was of the regular farm kind, of broiled chickens and ham and eggs.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After breakfast, Becket had a private talk with Colonel Eaton, in which it was agreed that Minnie should stay where she was until her brother himself should come for her, and that a special messenger should be dispatched forthwith for Walter.  This Becket undertook to do as soon as he should get back to Sacramento.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now he and Jerry took their leave, feeling sure of Minnie's safety under Colonel Eaton's hospitable roof.  Becket got the messenger; but it turned out afterwards that he was a worthless scamp, and that, contrary to his agreement with Becket, he deferred going until the next morning, and that when he did reach Marysville, next evening, he drank and fooled another day away.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE DRUNKEN MESSENGER--THE FORGED NOTE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Let us now return to Walter, Hilton and Captain Ward, as they dash over the trail from Downieville towards Marysville.  At the crossing of the Yuba River, they met a long pack train heavily packed with goods.  Walter's eye caught the sight of two trunks packed on one mule.  In an instant he recognized them.  They were Minnie's, and directed to the care of Hilton &amp; Wagner.  The train master could give no information in respect to them.  All he knew was that Adams &amp; Co. had forwarded them.  So, wasting no time, Walter and his companions dashed on to "Foster's Bar."  Here they stopped to change horses, and to refresh themselves.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Can you get us something to eat while our horses are being saddled, Tom?" said Hilton to a hotel-keeper, whom he knew well.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Certainly, Mr. Hilton; there is a gentleman now at dinner, and I think there is enough of grub for you all.  Anyway, there is plenty of ham on the table, and venison pie, and you know my old woman is some on venison pie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That she is.  Well, give us some water to wash, Tom, and a bottle or two of porter, for we have a sea Captain here who will drink one himself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, Mr. Hilton; tell Mr. Wagner and the sea Captain to come right in."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So they all washed and drank a glass of porter, and walked into the dining-room.  Walter was in such a state of excitement that he went through everything as if in a dream.  But the instant his eyes rested on the person already at dinner, he rushed forward, exclaiming:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! James De Forest, it is you!  Give us your hand, old fellow!  How glad I am to see you!  Have you any news of my sister, Minnie?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"News!  Any news of your sister Minnie!  You astonish me.  For God's sake, is she not with you?  Have you not seen her?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no; we cannot fine her, James; she is detained somewhere."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Great heavens, Walter!  What can it mean?"  Then, suddenly stopping and placing his hand to his forehead, as if trying to recall something to his mind, he said:  "Stop; let me see what was that I heard at the Empire Ranch, as I was getting my horse."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now all gathered round him anxiously to hear what it was he had heard.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; I recollect, but it cannot have any reference to Miss Minnie.  The stable man was talking to two gambling looking fellows; and one of them asked if he had seen a young girl--a very handsome girl, he said--on her way to Downieville within the last two days; and the stable man replied that none such had passed, except they had done so in the night; and that it was not likely that any one could pass in the night without his knowledge.  Then the gambler asked if he had observed a boy with a sort of brown overcoat coming there with some persons in a carriage, or in the stage, or in a buggy.  `No,' the stable man said; `none such had come there.'  Then he demanded of the gamblers what they were after, before he would answer any more questions.  To this, one of the fellows replied: `Oh, I am trying to find my sister, who ran away from her home yesterday.'"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Did you hear either of the names of those gamblers?" said Ward.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; I recollect one called the other Wild, in speaking to him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah," said Ward, "I thought as much."  Now all turned to Ward, asking him if he knew anything of this man.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nothing particular, though I remember to have heard of a man of that name, and, if he is the man I am thinking of, he is, sure enough, a rough-looking fellow, as our friend here says, and should be followed up at once, and made to explain aobut his looking for his sister; for this Wild I have reference to never had a sister."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Hilton, "this seems all unaccountable, and we had better dispatch our meal and be off."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter said: "Oh, excuse me; I have not introduced my friend, De Forest; my mind is so preoccupied.  James DeForest, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>519</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Hilton, "if we ride fast we will overhaul them at Marysville, for they will stop there, undoubtedly, for breakfast."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So on to Marysville they spurred their horses in silence.  Ward muttered to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I must not let myself drop behind, for I must be on hand to save Wild if I can.  The fellow may be useful to me yet, and in the scuffle that we are sure to have, I might get a chance to let a stray shot slip, so as to rid myself of this fellow De Forest.  He looked at me that time as if he knew me.  Can it be that some of our fellows have peached?  But no; that can't be.  It was the first time a look ever confused me.  No; I outlooked Sir John when he accused me of forging his name; I outlooked the Judge when he sentenced me; I outlooked old Captain Jackson when I entered his service; but that fellow's looks seemed somehow to say, `I know you,' and as that would be rather inconvenient just now, I turned my eyes away before he could see too much, for I know that sometimes the wolf part of my composition shows itself in my eyes.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>On reaching Marysville, the party found, on inquiring at the principal hotel, that three men had eaten breakfast there, and that after breakfast two of them had ridden off towards Sacramento, while one was lying alseep on a lounge in the adjoining room.  They at once aroused the sleeper, who seemed to be a worthless sort of a scamp.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Who are the men with whom you came from Empire Ranch last night, Captain?" said De Forest, as soon as he got the fellow's eyes open.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Colonel, I'll just tell you, if you let us have a little bitters first.  My stomach is awful out of order, you see, for I have been up nearly all night."</P>
181.sgm:<P>De Forest threw a half-dollar on the bar, and told the bartender to give him whatever he wanted.  The loafer deliberately waited for his drink, put the change of the half-dollar in his pocket as the bar-tender laid it down with his glass, then swallowing about half the contents, he laid the glass back on the bar, with his right hand yet around it, and, facing about to his impatient auditors, with his back to the bar, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, you wanted to know who those gentlemen were with whom I came from Empire Ranch last night?  Well, you look as if one of you was the Sheriff and the rest his deputies; but, if you are hunting thieves, I guess you are mistaken this time, if you think my company last night were the chaps; for they are all right and none of that sort.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Tell us who they were; that is all we want of you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, that is easily done, gentlemen; and I won't disoblige you, because I drank at your expense, just now."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Go on, go on," said De Forest, "without any more preface."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, let me begin at the beginning, then.  You will understand me better, Colonel, or Sheriff, or whatever you are."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then go on your own way, and tell us, and don't keep us here all day."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The fellow here swallowed the remainder of his drink and deliberately handed back his glass to the bar-tender and said, looking at De Forest:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You may as well order the glass filled again, Colonel; I will want it when I get through my story."</P>
181.sgm:<P>De Forest threw out another half-dollar, saying, with the greatest impatience:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"D--n your story!  Tell us who those men were that came with you this morning from Empire Ranch!"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"And have you such a letter, man?" broke in Walter, in the most intense excitement.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no; hear me out," he continued, while all now stood round him in breathless attention.  "So Jim Becket says, `Well, Ben, I will tell you what I will do; I will pay your bill here at Callahan's and give you twenty dollars spending money, if you will take a letter for me to a place near Downieville, and deliver <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>522</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, what have you done with the letter?" demanded Walter and De Forest in one breath.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, if you wait gentlemen, I am just coming to that.  After I got the letter, which was directed to `Walter Wagner, High Canyon, near Downieville,' it was so late in the day that I just put my horse up in another stable, and waited until morning.  I then took an early start, and reached Marysville here that evening.  Just after I had my supper, I fell in with an old comrade, and after that I have not much recollection of what I did, until last night, when I found myself at Empire Ranch in a little game of bean poker with the very chaps that came with me here this morning."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But the letter!  Tell us where the letter is," said Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The letter?  Oh, that is all right, as you will hear.  I happened to mention to those chaps, as I was playing with them, that I had a letter to carry to one Walter Wagner, and, to my surprise, one of the chaps said: `Why, you have?  Why <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Walter took the receipt from Ben's hand, and found it drawn in form, and signed "Walter Wagner."  At Hilton's suggestion, Walter laid the receipt away in his pocket-book, saying, as he did so:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Did the fellow open and read the letter?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Of course he did; and then they both had a conversation together, and I heard one of them say: `Let us get on our horses; we have her now, sure, if we lose no time.'  And with that they both rushed to the stable for their horses.  And, as I was now ready to go back to Sacramento, I came as far as here with them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Did Becket say nothing when he gave you the letter, Ben?" asked De Forest, calmly.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; he said: `If you should happen to lose that letter, which I hope you will not do, just tell Walter Wagner that his sister is all safe and well, and that he will find her at Colonel Eaton's, near Sacramento city.'"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Colonel Eaton's," exclaimed Hilton; "I know him well, and where he lives.  She is, of course, safe in that family, provided these villains don't make some treacherous attack upon the house, when the family are off their guard."  And, turning to De Forest, he continued: "Did you order fresh horses?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; there they stand, and let us be off."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The barkeeper, who had been an attentive listener, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Those fellows have at least two hours and a half the start of you, and mind, boys, they are armed to the eyes, and look as if it would be only fun for them to use their irons."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now all four are dashing on as fast as they dare ride their horses, with such a long road before them; and Walter and De Forest are far in the lead.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>WAITING--ATTEMPTED ABDUCTION--THE VILLAINS' FATE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After Becket and Jerry had left for Sacramento, the morning after the rescue, Mrs. Eaton persuaded Minnie to lie down and have a rest.  She gladly yielded to the suggestion, and it was late in the afternoon when she awoke, feeling very much refreshed.  She glanced around the room, and was surprised and pleased to see Fannie Eaton seated near the window, reading.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, you are there," she said; "it does me good to see you.  What is the time?  I have slept too long, I fear."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no, Miss Minnie, you have not slept too long; after the night you went through, you needed the rest, and mother was so glad to see you sleep so nicely, and told me to watch for your wakening, and get you to come down to the sitting-room and have a cup of tea, while you wait for supper."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How glad I am that I did not dream of that horrid night.  No; it is strange, but in my dreams I was back with my own mother in Newark, and she looked at me so sweetly and kissed me several times, so that I was perfectly happy.  How good your dear mother has been to me in receiving me so kindly.  But will you not call me just <HI REND="italics">Minnie</HI>
181.sgm:, and not <HI REND="italics">Miss Minnie</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that is easily settled; we will have no <HI REND="italics">Misses</HI>
181.sgm:<P>And so the contract was sealed between those two sweet girls.  Yes; a contract that lasted through sunshine and storm, only drawing their hearts closer and closer together, as joy or sorrow came, to throw light or shade on their way.  Minnie now felt perfectly at home, and enjoyed the company of the Eatons more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>525</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The fourth day came, and Minnie's heart all that day bounded at the approach of every footfall, for that was the day she expected to see Walter.  She would walk up and down sometimes, and then stop and throw herself into a chair, and, covering her face with her hands, exclaim:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Fannie, I cannot, it appears to me, hold out, or wait to see Walter!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Fannie would kiss her and encourage her, and try to attract her attention in every way she could.  Night and tea-time came, and no Walter.  Minnie could not eat, and grew so uneasy that she had to ask Mrs. Eaton to excuse her from the table.  Fannie arose, too, and taking Minnie's arm, walked up and down the little sitting-room, exhorting and encouraging her; but Minnie hardly seemed to hear her.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What can it be?" she said to Fanny.  "What makes me act so like a child?  Why, I am no woman at all."  And she took out her handkerchief and wiped her forehead.  "Oh, Fannie, I feel that horrid fear coming over me that I felt when I heard that wretch of a man's voice near me on the Senator's deck, the other night.  I have the same trembling and the same cold perspiration on my forehead.  Oh, put your arm around me, Fannie, and I will feel better."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Minnie!  Can it be that she is warned by a presentiment of some horrid danger close at hand?  Fannie grew very much alarmed, and, as she put her arm around Minnie's waist, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do not fear, darling Minnie; you know you are safe here.  But let me call mother and father.  Their presence will reassure you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no; do not call them.  I will be better in a moment.  Hark! what was that?" said Minnie, starting erect to listen and turning deadly pale.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a moment more, there was a knock at the front door.  Minnie could not stir from where she stood.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"You stay here," whispered Fannie, "and I will go to the door; and if it should be your brother, I will call you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Fannie dashed off, without waiting for Minnie's answer, threw open the door, and there stood a large man, partly concealed by the darkness.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is Miss Wagner here?" said the stranger.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; walk in," said Fannie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The stranger replied: "Yes, certainly; for here is her brother Walter at the garden-gate."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie was listening with intense attention, and, hearing this reply from the stranger, with a cry she dashed past Fannie and was in the arms of the man at the gate, exclaiming:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Walter; darling brother!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>But now Minnie's voice suddenly choked and stopped, then burst out in a scream, and again it stopped as if stifled; and Fannie plainly discerned through the darkness a tussle and a struggle, and then all disappeared beyond the gate.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Fannie screams at the top of her voice, and is heard all over the house, "Father! father!" and at the same time rushes to the gate.  The two men are on horseback, and Minnie is in the arms of one, as they gallop off; and now Minnie must have recovered her voice again, for her wild shrieks for help are heard through the darkness for a mile around.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Oh, yes; it is heard and answered, too; for with the tramp of horses comes the loud cry of "Coming, coming!"  In an instant more, shot after shot is heard, and then is heard Minnie's voice alone, calling out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Walter!  Oh, James! are you hurt?" and their answer, "No, no, Minnie; but don't come near us, for God's sake!"  On the approach of the horsemen with their cry of "Coming, coming!" the ruffians who had possessed themselves of Minnie by their treacherous stratagem were about to turn and run, but Walter and De Forest were on them too quickly.  Walter and the unincumbered man before him fired on each other, on sight.  The horse of the ruffian reared up just in time to receive Walter's bullet in its head, and, floundering to the ground, it brought its rider beneath it.  In an instant he was Walter's prisoner, with a revolver aimed at his breast.  De Forest had not dared to fire, for Minnie's form protected the man who held her, and who was endeavoring with the disengaged hand to fire on him.  With fierce impetuosity De Forest dashed in, and with a well-directed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>527</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Have you spoken to James De Forest?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie, without answering Walter, turns quickly to look for De Forest, and finds him standing not far behind her.  She springs to him and catches both his hands, exclaiming:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, James; I knew you as you caught me in your arms before you spoke!"  Then she slips one arm around his neck, and, drawing him down, kisses his cheek.  De Forest could not resist the impulse to catch her up in his arms and return her salute, which he had so well earned.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There, James," she whispers as she put both her open hands on his face to gently push him back, "that will do."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As De Forest relaxed his hold and looked up, his eyes met those of Ward peering down in the darkness on him, with nothing but the sneaking wolf shining out of them.  Hilton, who had been active in securing the prisoners, now called out to Walter, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, let you and De Forest take your sister to the house, while Ward and I will take the prisoners to a place of safety.  Colonel Eaton says he can provide for them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So Walter, giving his arm to his sister, walked with De Forest in the direction of the house.  Ward promptly took charge of Wild and marched him along, while Hilton brought up the rear in charge of the other man, who had given his name as McPherson.  Colonel Eaton had found in Hilton an old friend, and remained with him listening to his account of the chance meeting with Becket's messenger, from whom they had discovered the movements of the two ruffians they had just captured.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward, finding himself alone with Wild, said:  "You are a nice fool to be caught in this way.  What do you think will become of you now?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I am all right as long as you are here.  What a relief I felt when I heard your voice.  Where had you better let us escape?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Let you escape!  That is not such an easy matter as you think, Peter, my boy."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, yes; you and I can walk a little faster just now.  You can undo this cursed rope from my arms, so as to make it appear that I slipped it myself.  I can knock you down, you know, and make off in the darkness.  What is easier?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no; I cannot run that risk.  That fellow who is in charge of Mack is suspiciously watching all my movements.  He is no fool, and would know that I must have connived at your escape.  That would put me in a nice fix."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, what are you going to do, Captain?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I can't now tell.  I will get you both off, if I can.  You were fool enough to forge Wagner's name to a receipt when you took that letter from that fool of a messenger.  That alone would send you to San Quentin."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I know I did.  Therefore, I tell you that in some way, Mr. Captain Ward, you will have to let us loose this very night, even at some risk to yourself, Captain Ward <HI REND="italics">Lusk</HI>
181.sgm:<P>This was said in a defiant tone, with emphasis on the word <HI REND="italics">Lusk</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, is that your game, young man?" said Ward, raising his revolver, cocking it, and placing it close to Wild's ear, as he continued:  "I would rather tell my friends here that my prisoner was trying to escape, and that I shot him dead.  That will be much safer for me, you know, Mr. Peter Wild!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, don't murder me!  I ask your pardon, Captain.  Do as you think best, and I will be true to the last; but save me in some way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This was said in the most abject, cringing tone.  Ward lowered his pistol, as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I thought you must be out of your head.  The next time you ever threaten me by word, or even look, or disobey my orders, I will make carrion for the buzzards of your miserable carcass, you cowardly dog!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, forgive me, Captain.  You know I always served you well; but do not let us go to jail, or they will take us out and hang us, as they did two fellows at Hangtown, a few days ago, for insulting a married woman."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, if a good chance offers, I will get you out before morning; but, you can depend on it, I will save you in some way, even if you do go to jail in Sacramento; and when you get a chance, tell Mack not to fear, as I will in some way save you both."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, I will depend on you, and no living being shall hear a word from me.  I will keep Mack's mouth shut, too; but do your best to get us out before morning, for I am terribly afraid of going to jail."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then Colonel Eaton and Hilton came up with their prisoner, and all stopped in front of a large grain-bin, that stood apart from all other buildings.  It was strongly built, and had in it only one small window and a little door.  Into this building the prisoners were thrust, and two stout men, farm-hands of Colonel Eaton, leaped in after them, with revolvers in hand, as guards.  They threw some empty gunny-sacks to the prisoners to seat themselves or lie down upon, as they felt inclined.  Hanging up a lantern near the doorway, the guards seated themselves comfortably, and entered into conversation, as though nothing had happened.  All being deemed secure, Colonel Eaton led the way to the house.  As Ward followed, he muttered to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Mr. Peter Wild, you signed your own death warrant in that threat you made.  You did not know, perhaps, that I never risk a fellow after he once threatens.  Yes; your fate is sealed; and while getting you put where your tongue can never become troublesome, I will gain credit with my future wife here--this sweet young lady I am just going to be introduced to."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Walter, Minnie and James De Forest came near the house, they met Mrs. Eaton, Fannie, and every one around the place, ready to receive them with every demonstration of joy.  Both the ladies hugged and kissed Minnie, and gave way without restraint to their feeling of thankfulness and delight at her rescue.  On reaching the sitting-room, Minnie introduced her brother and James De Forest.  When Walter took Fannie's hand, and retained it in his, while he was expressing his gratitude to her for her sisterly care of Minnie, Fannie started, and withdrew her hand in great alarm, exclaiming:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Mr. Wagner, you are wounded!"  And, as pale as death, she held up her hand covered with blood from his.  All eyes turned to Walter's hand, and, sure enough, it was red with running blood.  Minnie caught it up, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Where, where, Walter, do you think you are wounded?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, do not be alarmed, dear Minnie.  Don't mind, Miss Fannie.  It cannot be much; for I never felt it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Without ceremony, he threw off his coat, and found his shirt- sleeve saturated with blood.  Removing this, the wound was exposed.  It appeared that the shot fired at him had gone through the fleshy part of his arm.  In the excitement, he had never felt it; but it was now bleeding freely.  Mrs. Eaton's skill with adhesive plaster and bandages soon staunched the wound, and Walter laughed the matter off as if it was nothing.  While Walter was having the wound dressed, somehow his eyes strayed over Minnie's shoulder in search of Fannie's face; and her pale, tearful countenance, as her eyes met his, gave him a peculiar pleasure he had never in his life felt before.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How like Minnie she is," he thought to himself.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At De Forest's suggestion, Walter let his wounded arm rest in a sling.  Just as all this was arranged, Colonel Eaton appeared with Hilton and Captain Ward.  The Colonel introduced them to his wife and daughter, and Minnie was most cordial to them both, calling them her deliverers, and saying everything to show her gratitude for the share they had taken in her rescue.  Captain Ward was apparently in the best good-humor.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am only sorry, Miss Minnie," he said, "that it was not I who had the honor of taking you from that villain, Wild; or that it was not I who was wounded in your defence; but I shall try, by future devotion to your interest, and to that of all your friends here, to show that I am worthy of at least being counted as one of your friends."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You have given ample proof of that already, Captain Ward, I am sure; and I would be very ungrateful if I did not fully appreciate your services, and look forward with hope for some opportunity to show you how highly I value them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain bowed and smiled, while he let his large, dark eyes fall full on hers, as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Miss Minnie; you make me most happy by making me think that you believe yourself in my debt."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Minnie's eyes looked into his, they did not flinch, nor draw back, for something for an instant fascinated her, and then a loathing, repulsive sensation darted through her like an electric shock, and seemed to say to her plainly:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Beware; he is a villain!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward withdrew his eyes in a sort of confusion, as though he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>531</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:felt that Minnie had done just what Brown had warned him she would do-- <HI REND="italics">read him through and through</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain, you are very gallant, I acknowledge, to wish to have this wound; as, besides the great inconvenience it is likely to be for a few days, it pains me very much just now, I assure you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, if there was nothing disagreeable about it, of course there would be no merit in taking it; and I would then make no progress in Miss Minnie's favor, which is what I prize above all things.  I felt so before I saw her, because your description of your sister fascinated me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, brother Walter!" said Minnie, half-annoyed, "have you been talking so foolishly about me to strangers?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, sister Minnie, I did say something about you to my friends, and only because I supposed they never would see you.  They were friends, however, and not strangers; but yet I would not have said a word about you, had I the least idea at that time that you were on your way out to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am compelled to say, Miss Minnie," said the Captain, "that you cannot find fault with your brother, for to-night I see he was so moderate as to have told only half the truth."</P>
181.sgm:<P>To this speech Minnie only bowed in acknowledgment, making an effort to smile, for somehow she now found the Captain's gallant speeches were excessively disagreeable to her.  She felt like one who was warned that those compliments not only meant nothing, but that they were used to cover some ulterior purpose.  She combated this feeling, and tried to shake it off, as unreasonable and unjust to a man who was her brother's friend, and whose conduct towards herself was, thus far, unexceptionable; but to do this required an effort of thought and will that she was not always on her guard to use.  So, though in future very polite to the Captain, it was politeness squared by the strict rules of society, with nothing of those thousand and one natural little off-hand actions, gestures and bright, genuine smiles, that throw a charm into the intercourse of friends who both respect and admire each other.</P>
181.sgm:<P>While Minnie was engaged in this conversation with the Captain, she noticed that De Forest looked annoyed and uneasy.  "Perhaps," thought she, "James De Forest knows more of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>532</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Then Mrs. Eaton came to announce that a lunch was ready for the four newcomers.  Thanking Mrs. Eaton for her hospitality, they sat down and ate as hungry men do after a hard ride and a long fast.  Fannie, by her mother's request, presided at the table, and Minnie sat by Walter to cut his meat, as he feared to use his arm carelessly.  The conversation became general, and all seemed almost to have forgotten the frightful events of the day, in the enjoyment of their present safety.  After supper, it was arranged that, Walter being excused on account of his wound, all the other men should in turn watch with the guard over the prisoners until daylight.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At the dawn of day, no unnecessary time was lost in taking the prisoners to Sacramento, to have them regularly examined before a Justice and committed formally to jail, to await their trial.  Colonel Eaton furnished the necessary wagon to convey the prisoners, and the rest of the party acted as a guard on horseback, Walter remaining behind, as his wound began to give him considerable trouble.  It was agreed, also, that it was unnecessary for Isaac Hilton to accompany them; so, bidding them all a cordial farewell, and, telling Minnie he wanted to go back to fix things up for her in High Canyon, he rode off in the direction of Marysville.  The news of the attack on Colonel Eaton's house had reached the city of Sacramento in an hour after its occurrence, and excited the greatest indignation.  The story ran in a hundred ways, mostly greatly exaggerated.  One had it that Miss Fannie Eaton, so universally beloved, had been shot by a friend of her own, while he was trying to save her from some ruffian who was in the act of carrying her off.  Another, that a beautiful young lady friend of Miss Fannie, who had just arrived from the East, on a visit to her, was carried off, and that Colonel Eaton had been killed while trying to rescue her.  And many yet more extravagant versions of the matter were repeated from mouth to mouth.  Morning came, and the news spread in every direction, so that by the time the prisoners arrived in the city, it was known in many of the nearest mining districts.  Every one seemed interested, and all, as they heard the news, threw down their mining tools or whatever they had in hand, and rushed towards the city to learn the truth.  Colonel Eaton had the wagon with the prisoners driven direct to the office of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>533</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"So you tell me, sir," exclaimed Jerry, "that Miss Minnie and the other ladies are all unharmed, and only Miss Minnie's brother a little wounded?  Glory be to God!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That is all, Jerry; you may depend on it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And the ladies are going to come in and testify against those two ruffians?  Is that what's going to be done, sir?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Jerry; the District Attorney wants their statement under oath."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, sir, then all this business will end to-day, sure?" said Jerry, looking solemn, and speaking in a suppressed voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What do you mean, Jerry?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mean, sir!  I mean that if Miss Minnie Wagner ever gets up in a crowded courtroom, and tells all them miners that such and such a man attempted wickedness towards her, in a moment more no man in all that crowd will be his own master.  No, sir; for I tell you that Miss Minnie is so handsome and innocent-looking, and her voice is a voice just lent to her by some angel, I suppose, to let us know what sort of voices there are in Heaven, and to make us want to get there--the Lord be praised!  It will go right to the heart like, of every man present, who has a mother, a wife or a sister, that he has been thinking and dreaming about ever since he left them away back in his old home; and before he knows what he is doing, he will be pulling the ropes that will swing them two villains; and the sun, as it goes down to-night, will shine on their dead bodies.  So, as I said, sir, this day will close this business, I am thinking."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I hope you are mistaken, Jerry; for I am opposed to that sort of lynch-law executions, for more harm comes from them than good."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; so I say, too; and many a poor soul is sent in that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>534</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>This delay of sending for Walter and the ladies obliged the examination to be deferred until two o'clock in the afternoon.  Now came one of those extraordinary excitements, often witnessed in the early days of California.  It spread like a conflagration, until more than a thousand men stood waiting for the examination, near Justice Howard's office, not far from the steamboat landing.  All the police force at the command of the authorities was assembled at this place, and the Justice, in obedience to a general wish, removed his desk, seats and chairs into a large, new storeroom, then just being finished, near his office.  The hour came.  The immense room was filled to overflowing.  A bustle in the crowd near the door was now heard, and, after a voice of authority demanded it, the crowd opened, and Wild and McPherson were marched up to the Justice's desk, handcuffed together, and guarded by a strong force under command of the Sheriff of the county.  The District Attorney now read the complaint sworn to by Colonel Wm. Eaton.  A short, red-faced man, of the name of Strutt, announced himself as attorney for the prisoners, and began by making objections to the form of complaint.  The Justice overruled the objections with some impatience, and ordered the examination to proceed.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Go on, Mr. Justice," said Strutt, "and I will soon get your work set aside by the Court above."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The District Attorney reminded Mr. Strutt that this proceeding was only an examination preliminary to committing the prisoners for trial, but Strutt persisted in objecting to everything, always turning around towards the crowd and throwing up his little red face as he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, Mr. Justice; I will have all this work set aside by the Court above."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The murmurs and expressions that now and then broke from the audience showed that they were enduring Mr. Strutt's conduct with great impatience; but the more impatient the crowd appeared, the greater were Mr. Strutt's efforts to thwart the proceeding, seeming to think that this was a fine opportunity to advertise his talents and ability, and that he must improve it to the utmost.  The increasing murmurings of dissatisfaction <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>535</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As Minnie concluded by saying, "I recognize those two men seated near you, Judge, as the men who caught me and put me <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>536</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Justice, I totally object--"</P>
181.sgm:<P>He proceeded no further, because an iron grasp was on his throat, and another low down on his back, and in an instant he felt himself high in the air, while the powerful fellow who held him aloft, called out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Boys, what shall we do with the scalawag?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Hang him!"  "Choke him!"  "Throw him out doors!" shouted everybody.  And then came the additional cry: "Drag out those Sydney ducks!  We will give them all the law they want!  Drag them out!  Drag them out!" then burst from the whole assembly, while revolvers leaped into view all around.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie, Mrs. Eaton and Fannie stood close together, with Colonel Eaton, De Forest and Walter standing with their backs to them, and their faces towards the now wild crowd.  The Sheriff and his deputies stood with their revolvers in hand; but, feeling themselves utterly powerless, remained inactive, uncer-what to do.  Justice Howard leaped on a chair, and, calling out in a clear, commanding voice, such as even a mob will sometimes listen to:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Californians, do you forget that ladies are present?  If you are the men I take you for, in respect to the presence of those ladies, you will at once put up your weapons and remain quiet."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That is right!  That is right!" sang out a hundred voices at once.  And in an instant more a general quiet reigned through-out the building.  Poor little Strutt, finding his throat released, squirmed his way through the crowd to the door, and made the shortest time on record, in a foot-race, to the nearest saloon, where he poured all sorts of drinks down his throat.  "Just to see," he said, "that, though sore on the outside, it was all right on the inside."  He complained, too, of soreness on the back part of his person, where some one had given him a terrible propeller with his boot, as he was making his exit from the building.  "It felt," he said, "as if he had been sitting on a red-hot stove."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Justice remained standing on the chair, with his eyes fastened on the crowd, as if with their power he charmed them into good order.  But he himself well knew the talisman whose power had done the work, and he now continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, fellow-citizens, in the name of the ladies here present, for restoring order, and I now wish to say to you, that I will forthwith commit the prisoners for trial without further examination; and, in the name of the ladies, I will ask you to retire from the building without any disturbance, so that they may have a free passage, and the Sheriff an opportunity to do his duty and take the prisoners to jail.  Without a word of objection, all turned to leave the building.  During all the time these scenes were enacting in the building, Captain Ward remained outside, moving about among the mass of people who could not get in, apparently in a heated excitement of indignation at the villainy of the prisoners.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What is the use, boys," he would say, "of going through the forms of law with these Sydney villains?  No; let us have a wagon ready to pitch the rascals into as soon as the Sheriff brings them out, and let us take them to the nearest tree and up with them.  Yes; we must protect the few ladies among us at all hazards."</P>
181.sgm:<P>His auditors were but too well inclined to agree with him.  While he was talking to a crowd in this way, a boy pushed his way up to him, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is your name Captain Ward, sir?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, boy; what do you want?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The boy motioned him to follow a little way, and then handed him a note, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Strutt told me to bring him an answer, sir; and that he would give me an ounce for it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Without speaking, Ward read the note.  It was written on a half-sheet of foolscap.  The hand-writing was evidently that of a person who usually wrote a good hand, but who now wrote under great excitement, and in a tremulous, unsteady manner.  It was as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>LUSK:--I am not to be trifled with.  You have not come near me, though I have repeatedly sent for you.  If you do not instantly come, and explain, to our full satisfaction, how you are going to save us from this fix, I will, just as soon as I get back to the jail, make a full confession of everything I know.  You know I can prove to the authorities all I will tell them, and that this will swing you, and save my own life.  So, you now see, I am not to be fooled with.  No letters or promises sent by others will do; so, now, you know what to expect, and who you are dealing with.</P>
181.sgm:<P>WILD.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Ward finished reading, a bitter, sarcastic smile curled his lip, and he said, half-aloud: "The trouble is that <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm: don't know who <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Then aloud, to the boy, he spoke: "Wait a moment, boy, and I will give you the answer; and be sure you make that fellow give you the ounce before you give him the note."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, Captain; I will do that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward remained in thought for a moment, and then walked into a grocery store near by, got a sheet of paper and wrote in the center of it: "I will see you as requested."  And, without signing it, folded the paper, put it in an envelope, and gave it to the boy.  The crowd now came rushing out of the building, and, parting into two bodies, one at each side of the door-way, as if by preconcerted action, until at last came the Sheriff with his prisoners.  Then arose a terrific shout, then a rush, and, in a moment more, the prisoners were flung into the large spring-wagon Ward had just driven up.  The crowd now fell into silence like that of a funeral, and, without an apparent direction from any one, or a visible leader, made off to a well-known tree, with spreading limbs, in the outskirts of the city, near the river.  The wagon halts beneath the beautiful spreading shade of the tree, that is all unconscious of the bloody work it is to be used for.  The ropes necessary are found all prepared in the wagon, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>539</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Only spare my life for five minutes, and I will give you information that will be most valuable to you, and the truth of which I can prove to your full satisfaction."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Hear him!"  "Hear him!" cried out a hundred voices.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Wild spoke, he glanced all around the crowd, and his eyes at last rested on the tall form of Ward, standing near the horses' heads.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There," said Wild, "is the very man I want to tell you about.  He is the Captain of all the Sydney thieves in the State."</P>
181.sgm:<P>All eyes were turned in the direction Wild indicated by his look only, for his hands were pinioned down, and each one, in that part of the crowd, looked at his neighbor with suspicion.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What man do you mean?" called out Ward, boldly, while, as if jumping forward to hear the answer, he pressed against the horses' heads, and, dextrously using his knife, severed the reins.  In an instant, the impatient animals were plunging forward, reckless of everything.  Ward took care to be one of those struck to the ground in the confusion.  Then the two wretched men swung backwards and forwards, writhing in the last agonies of a fearful death, while the crowd looked on in profound silence, with uncovered heads, which made the scene as solemn as it was terrible.  As Ward arose from the ground, his first expression was:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, what a pity that fellow did not get a chance to finish what he had begun to tell us!  But, however," he continued, "it is of no consequence, as I suppose the rascal was only trying to gain time."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, looking up to the two swinging, lifeless bodies, a demoniac smile played around his wolfish eyes, as he said to himself:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"I managed this business well.  That fellow Wild was the only man in my whole gang I feared; but he will never again write me threatening letters or interfere with my plans in regard to this proud beauty, who is to be my future wife, which, if he had lived, he might have attempted.  That fellow McPherson was a sort of useful dog to have about, but I could not save him, and get Wild hung; so I had to let them both swing."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When the crowd rushed from the building after the examination, Minnie and Walter and their friends followed slowly, and, on reaching the sidewalk, they found the street completely deserted.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why!  Where is the immense crowd gone?" exclaimed the ladies, in surprise.</P>
181.sgm:<P>No one could tell, and, without pressing the inquiry, the whole party proceeded to the hotel and ordered refreshments.  A little before sunset, Jerry Brady called to ask if his carriage was wanted to take the ladies back to Colonel Eaton's.  Yes; it was wanted, of course.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Mr. De Forest," said Jerry, "it came out just as I told you it would; that sun we see just setting, is shining on the dead bodies of those two Sydney villains, hanging on the big tree, down close to the river, all alone, without a friend to bury them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The sudden disappearance of the crowd was now explained, and when the ladies were informed of what had happened a sensation of sickening horror completely overcame them.  California, however, was not then the place to brood over the events past, and that could not be recalled.  No; the present and the future were always demanding our time and energy; for on, on, we were rushing, always pressing a month's work into a day's time.  Colonel and Mrs. Eaton insisted on Minnie, Walter and De Forest returning with them that evening, and they yielded, as they found it hard to part with friends who had, even on so short an acquaintance, become so very dear to them.  Then Walter was feverish, and half-sick from his wound, and Mrs. Eaton urged the necessity of absolute repose and quiet, such as he could only have at her house.  So Jerry Brady once more dashed over the road, and, early in the evening of that anxious day, deposited them all in safety at Colonel Eaton's hospitable residence.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>A VISIT FROM CAPTAIN WARD--SOMBER THOUGHTS.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The morning after the execution of Wild and McPherson, Walter found himself so much worse, that it was deemed advisable to send for medical advice.  Dr. White, who came from Sacramento in answer to the call, examined the wound and found it very much inflamed, and the symptoms pointed to the possible danger from erysipelas.  The Doctor privately informed Colonel Eaton and James De Forest of his apprehensions, and of the necessity of using the most active remedies to ward off the disease.  He also counseled the most careful nursing.  This state of things induced De Forest to defer his departure for a day or two longer; for, although Walter had of course the best possible nurses in Minnie and Mrs. Eaton, yet his anxiety for his friend's safety would not permit his leaving until he should feel assured of his safety.  In the course of the morning of that same day, Captain Ward called to pay his respects to the ladies, and inquire for his friend Walter.  The ladies were all very polite to him, and Minnie, after informing him of the Doctor's general injunction against visitors being permitted to see Walter, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But my brother thinks so much of you, Captain, that I think it would do him more good than harm if he were to see you for a few minutes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward looked delighted at this speech from Minnie, as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well; the dear fellow and I have become very much attached to each other; but I feared that my nose was out of joint now that his sweet sister was here to stay by him; for the fact is, I believe, I made my way to his friendship and heart by talking so much of you, Miss Minnie, which I could not help doing after I saw your likeness and heard his description of you, which I find, after all, only told a little of the truth."</P>
181.sgm:<P>To stop these sort of broad compliments, which no woman of sense relishes, for she knows that they generally come from hollow heads and hollow hearts, Minnie arose and said:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"I will lead the way to my brother's room, Captain, if you wish."</P>
181.sgm:<P>James De Forest, who was seated by Walter's bed, recognized Ward's voice, as he followed Minnie up the stairway, and, not wishing to have any conversation with him, arose to go, intending only to bow to the Captain as he passed him; but Ward stopped short, directly in front of him, and reached out his hand, exclaiming:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My dear fellow, how are you after the excitement of yesterday?  I am glad to see you looking so well.  Well, we fixed those Sydney rascals nicely.  I was out there and saw their last kick.  The villains died hard, I can tell you; but die they had to.  Now Miss Minnie here has her revenge.  I kept up the steam among the boys while the examination was going on, so the whole thing went off like a charm."  And Ward, as he stopped speaking, chuckled out what he intended for a laugh.</P>
181.sgm:<P>De Forest withdrew his hand with a feeling of indescribable loathing, while he dropped his eyes on Ward's face, then down his whole person to his feet, and withdrew them, and, without speaking a word, passed quickly down the stairs.  Ward was, of course, disconcerted; for there is no man on earth, be he ever so bold in impudence, so callous to contemptuous treatment, who can stand that sort of a review of his person unflinchingly.  Recovering himself, however, he said to Minnie:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What is the matter with our friend, De Forest?  He has a strange way of acting."  Then, assuming a pleasant voice, and dropping his head very close to Minnie's face, he continued: "Oh, Miss Minnie, I see the poor fellow is jealous, so I forgive him.  Yes; he cannot help it; so, as I said, I forgive him; for I know how I should feel if any good-looking man should successfully get himself between me and your smiles, Miss Minnie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie felt her face burn, while every word the Captain said added to her disgust of the man.  Ward continued, with a sort of knowing smile:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, how I should like to have been in De Forest's place the night before last, to get that reward I saw you give him for saving you.  Oh, Miss Minnie," and here he lowered his voice and tried to give it a love-sick tone, "can I ever hope to deserve such a reward?  It was to win my way with you I worked so hard yesterday in getting those men properly disposed of."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie's horror was now equal to her disgust, and she would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>543</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I am surprised, Captain Ward, how you could for a moment suppose that I, or my brother, approved that horrid proceeding of yesterday."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward bit his lips, as his eyes followed Minnie's retiring figure down the stairway, and then, turning to Walter, he began to express himself as greatly concerned for him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh; do not be alarmed, dear friend; the Doctor says that all I want is quiet and good nursing, both of which I am sure of here."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Ward asked Walter if he would not wish him to stay and help to nurse him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nothing would suit me better, Captain; but I have all the nurses that I want, and I dare not trespass on the hospitality of this good family by encouraging any more persons remaining near me, and particularly when they can do no good."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"When does De Forest return to Oregon?" asked Ward, in a careless tone.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"To-morrow, or the day after at farthest.  My sister will be all the nurse I shall want."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And Miss Fannie?" added Ward, with a knowing smile.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, Captain; and Miss Fannie, as you say; for it will surely do me no harm to know that so sweet a girl is helping Minnie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Not a bit of it!  And I don't blame you, my dear fellow, for being a little soft in that direction.  I might have been so myself if all my attention was not absorbed in another direction."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, indeed," said Walter, not appearing to understand to whom the Captain alluded; "I did not suppose a man like you, who had seen all the beautiful women of the world, you may say, would be easily thrown off his guard, or yield to that sort of feelings."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward now assumed a more serious manner and tone, as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nor am I easily moved, friend Wagner, I can assure you.  I have, as you say, seen many charming women, and, though warm and ardent in my temperament, I assure you, as we are both here alone, and feeling sure you will not doubt your friend's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>544</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>This was too plain a speech for Walter to be able to pretend to wholly misunderstand; so he just said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I see, Captain, you are new in these matters, sure enough; or you would know that these sudden fancies are never lasting."  Ward was going to reply, when Walter added: "But let us change the subject, Captain.  When do you go down to the bay?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I will go in this evening's boat, as I cannot be of any use to you here."  And, as he drew out his watch, he added: "By Jove!  I have not a moment to lose."  And, rising, he took Walter's hand and shook it furiously, saying: "Good bye, my dear friend.  Write to me just as soon and as often as you can.  Direct your letters to the care of McConroy &amp; Co., in San Francisco.  They did all my shipping business, and are first-rate men.  Be sure to let me know as soon as you get back to Downieville, as I have a business proposition to make to you.  So, again, good-by, my dear fellow."  Then, pausing a second, and lowering his voice, he added: "You will one day find, friend Walter, that you did me injustice in supposing that the feeling I alluded to, just a minute ago, can ever change.  No; my life has now a new object, and an object that will spur me on to any sacrifice to attain it.  Be my friend, Walter, in this matter, and you will never regret it; depend on that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward was gone before Walter could say a word in the way of an answer.  On descending to the sitting-room, he found Mrs. Eaton and Fannie there alone, and, in answer to his inquiries, Mrs. Eaton told him that Minnie and De Forest had gone out to walk with Colonel Eaton.  She asked the Captain to take a seat and wait for their return, but he said it was impossible for him to do so, as he had to go to San Francisco that evening, and he feared missing the boat.  In a minute more he was urging his horse towards Sacramento.  As he rode, he talked to himself thus:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The confounded little hussy does not yield a bit.  When she is standing near that fellow De Forest, she looks as soft and gentle as a child of five years, and when he speaks she looks at him with a smile that must bewitch the fellow, and it makes me hate him.  Yes; you can see that she believes all he tells her to be true; but when she is near me, there is something about her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>545</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:whole bearing and manner that says to me, so that I can't misunderstand it: `I understand you, sir.  I have read all about you in your own eyes, and your compliments are disgusting to me.  Take them to the silly women you are accustomed to, who are such fools as to be pleased with them.'  Yes; Brown must be right.  This Yankee girl has read me right through; but I will not give her up, for there was more truth than I believe I spoke in twenty years in what I told Wagner to-day, as to this girl being the only woman who ever touched my feelings.  I see I will have a difficult task to trap her.  Yes; Brown was right.  My villainous father's game was nothing to this that I will have to play.  But I will triumph, for I will stop at nothing to effect my purpose.  Surely the wolf and the lion together ought to be a match for anything that could come from this cool, calculating Yankee stock.  The emblem of the Yankee is the great eagle, that soars so high above all earthly things, that when he gazes at it, away above the dark clouds, he forgets or half despises the natural business of life, which is for every man to outwit his neighbor to the utmost of his ability, and he foolishly begins to think of all that is noble, generous and great.  And those sort of ideas tend to produce such girls as this Minnie Wagner, to the annoyance of all dashing, liberal-minded fellows like myself.  No; give me the lion, with the wolf mixed in, as an emblem to inspire my actions.  They live in dark caves and treacherous jungles, where villainy always has a home; and they, like me, devour the good and the bad, without mercy, for their own gratification.  ` <HI REND="italics">Might,' not `Right</HI>
181.sgm:,' is the motto of monarchs; and I am a monarch in my way, for I acknowledge no superior power.  What chance is there, then, Miss Minnie Wagner, for you to balk my appetite?  I have sworn to marry women that I fancied, and hunted them down to their ruin; but when I swore that, I knew I was lying; but this girl has, in fact, got some unaccountable hold on me.  I love and hate her both.  The idea that I should love anything, living or dead, is an absurdity; but I suppose the wolf part of me hates her, and the lion part of me loves her.  Yes; it is strange.  She comes to me in my dreams, looking so proud and beautiful; and then it appears to me I am a man like other men, and I love her truly and wildly, and I go on my knees to swear that I will be faithful to her; and when I look up, she is gone, and in her place stands a hideous demon, laughing at me.  Or sometimes it is Harry West, the boy I murdered that Sunday morning in the canal, when I was only a boy myself.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>546</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>JAMES DE FOREST AND MINNIE--THE COLONEL'S CATTLE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When James De Forest left Walter's sick-room to let Ward take his place, he repaired to the sitting-room, and there commenced walking up and down with an impatient, quick tread, as he said to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I cannot for the life of me see how it is that Walter has taken such a fancy to that man.  I dislike to tell him what I think of him, lest he should misunderstand my motives, and think I was jealous on account of Minnie.  Jealous, indeed!  If Minnie is the sort of girl that could ever be caught by that heartless fellow, then she is not the girl I take her for.  I believe I will put Minnie herself on her guard, and get her to talk to Walter.  But, no; that will not do either.  How do I know but that she might misunderstand me?  No; I will just let the thing work out its own cure; for I am satisfied that Minnie's own intelligence will guard her.  As for me, there is one thing certain: If I do not marry Minnie, I never will marry any woman on earth.  Yes; that is a fixed fact.  I wonder if she thinks anything about me more than as a sort of a brother?  I know she likes me as Walter's friend, but that is not what I want.  I want her to think of me as I do of her.  I have a mind to come right out to her about it; but if I do, it will look as if I feared this fellow Ward; and then Walter is sick, and she is not fairly settled at home yet, and it would look as if I came down just to take her away from Walter.  No; I will wait for a little time, until they are nicely settled down at home.  Then I will come back, and have a plain talk with her and Walter both, which will decide if I am ever to be married or not."  Then De Forest dropped into a deep reverie, and after a while he murmured: "I wonder if she has that rose-bud yet.  I dislike to ask her, but I would like to know so much."  Then he paused, and then added: "Yes; every day of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>548</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"James, what in the world are you dreaming of?  Just do tell us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>De Forest starts, looks up, and joins in a laugh with Minnie and Colonel Eaton.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I will not tell you what I was thinking of; but I will just say that I take it as a good omen that it was you I first saw when I awoke from a pleasant day-dream."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Colonel then explained that he had come for him to join them in a walk to look at some young cattle he had just imported from Kentucky.  So, off they started, Minnie taking De Forest's arm without waiting to be asked.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Colonel Eaton, who remembered his own young days, very considerately, on some pretence, walked ahead, as he said to himself: "I see that poor fellow is badly in for it, and, to say the truth, I don't much blame him in this case.  So, let him have a chance to tell her what he was thinking of in that brown study we aroused him from.  I know without his telling me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, you won't tell me what you were thinking of that time?" said Minnie, laughing; "but I suppose you were dreaming that Oregon was a great State, just admitted into the Union, and that you were elected her first Governor, and that all the people had assembled to see you inaugurated."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, Minnie; you do not guess one bit right," said James, catching up Minnie's laughing way; "for in my dream <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah, how was that?  Who else was there?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>James dropped his voice lower, and said: "I was there, and Walter and Fannie Eaton were there."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>He felt Minnie's hand start as it rested on his arm.  For a moment her eyes dropped, and she evidently had to make an effort to continue her sportive way of talking.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," she said, "that must have been a tame sort of day-dream.  Why, if I was a man and wanted to indulge in a day-dream, I would fancy myself walking into the White House at Washington, with all the representatives of all the nations of the earth to see me take my seat as President of this great republic.  Or I would see myself a General at the head of a victorious army, with all the people crowding around to do me honor."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And then, without giving James time to say a word as a rejoinder, she withdrew her arm, and, running to where a bunch of beautiful California violets were blooming, she picked a handful.  Returning to De Forest, she selected one out of the bunch, and handed it to him, saying: "Take that; you know you once gave me a rose-bud; so you are repaid, and we are even now."</P>
181.sgm:<P>De Forest took it, and, not knowing exactly how to interpret the gift in the way it was given, said: "Well, I will take it, and if I lose, it I suppose the fate of the flowers will be exactly the same--"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, then you suspect that I lost your gift, I see.  Can you think that I would treat a friend of Walter's that way?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"A friend of Walter's," said De Forest, slowly.  "Supposing Captain Ward, who is a friend of Walter's, you know, was to present you with a flower, would you take care of it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie started at the sound of Ward's name, changed color slightly, and said: "Captain Ward will never give me a flower, or any other gift.  There is no danger of that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, but if he did, Minnie; for he looks to me as if he could command impudence for anything."  De Forest spoke with a warmth that betrayed his dislike to Ward.</P>
181.sgm:<P>A shade of half-regret and perplexity passed over Minnie's face, as she said: "Oh, well, let us not talk of him; for, as you say, he is Walter's friend, and I do not know him much, and, most likely, never will."</P>
181.sgm:<P>James made no reply, but turned his eyes away from Minnie, as if struggling with some inward feeling.  He let them rest for a moment on the violet in his hand.  Then he drew out his pocket-book and placed it carefully between its leaves, saying, in a half-reproachful tone: "Well, Minnie, if that rose-bud had half the value for you that this violet now has for me, there is no danger that it would be lost."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Colonel Eaton was now approaching, and Minnie, without speaking, hurriedly drew from her neck a gold locket, and, with the sweetest smile and a conscious blush, held it up to De Forest's eyes.  It contained a miniature of Walter, and across the miniature lay the pressed rose-bud.  Delighted, De Forest exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank you, Minnie; thank you, from my inmost heart."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Come, Miss Minnie; you are forgetting my cattle," said Colonel Eaton.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no, Colonel; I assure you I could not do that; for handsome cattle always interest me very much."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Minnie said this, she took the Colonel's arm.  She seemed now in the most joyous spirits.  Laughing and talking, she delighted the Colonel by asking him all sorts of questions about the cattle, and appeared deeply interested in everything relating to them.  De Forest walked on with them, but seemed lost in his own thoughts, while his eyes were constantly on Minnie, and, undoubtedly, his day-dreams of orange-blossoms and white dresses had again taken possession of his mind, if one could judge from the happy expression of his countenance.  Minnie's eyes would now and then meet his, notwithstanding that she seemed to be entirely engrossed in admiration of Colonel Eaton's Kentucky heifers.  When they reached home, they found Mrs. Eaton and Fannie in the little sitting-room, who inquired how they had enjoyed themselves.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said Minnie, "we had a delightful walk."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes," said Colonel Eaton; "of course Mr. De Forest had a most charming time; for I behaved myself well and kept out of the way, you know, for a long time."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here Minnie blushed, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Colonel, you are too bad.  The walk would have been nothing if you had not been there to tell us all about those handsome Kentucky cattle of yours; would it, James?" she continued, turning to De Forest.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Cattle, Minnie?" said James.  "Why, did the Colonel show us cattle?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now all laughed, including De Forest, and Minnie dashed upstairs to see Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The next day Walter was much improved; but it was some days before he could leave his room, and he did not find it hard to prevail on De Forest to defer his departure until then.  These <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>551</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The first day Walter found himself able to leave his room, James De Forest bid them all farewell, promising to visit them again as soon as his business would permit.  He parted with the Eatons as if they had been old friends.  To Fannie he whispered:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"In your hands I leave my friend Walter; take care of him, Miss Fannie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Fannie blushed, and was going to reply; but De Forest was gone.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter and Minnie remained four days more with their kind friends, and then they also took their leave.  After a very pleasant trip to Minnie, they arrived safe in Walter's place of business in High Canyon.  Mr. Hilton had a nice room prepared for Minnie, and had also procured the services of a widow who had, a few months before, lost her husband by a painful accident, while mining in that neighborhood.  This lady was a Mrs. Swan, who proved to be a well-educated and sensible person, and an efficient assistant to Minnie, as well as a pleasant companion.  So, dismissing the Chinaman, Minnie took full charge of the housekeeping, and was delighted with her new position.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Soon everything around the little cottage began to wear a new appearance, delightful to both Walter and Mr. Hilton.  Fannie Eaton sent Minnie plants and cuttings from her own garden and from Smith's extensive gardens near the city of Sacramento.  In two or three months, flowers bloomed for her, and the wild rose-bushes and other beautiful climbers she had planted around the cottage began to cover it over and make it look most charming.  Minnie's wildest dreams of the pleasures of a mountain miner's life with Walter seemed now fulfilled.  She reigned queen in that whole mining district.  A smile won from her was more valued by many a young miner than a lucky day's work in the richest claim.  While she was pleasant, cheerful and affable to all, without the least formality or affectation, she ever preserved that quiet dignity of manner that gives such a peculiar charm to the educated American girl.  Her keen discernment recognized merit and worth in the persons introduced to her, as quickly in the rough garb of the practical miner as when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>552</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie wrote long letters to her mother, giving her a description of her mountain life, which showed her to be fully happy.  Oh! it cannot be that her young, light heart, while now so joyous and full of wild happiness, is never warned nor visited by a presentiment of coming evil; or is there something that whispers to her when the sky of the future looks the clearest and the sun of to-day the brightest: "Minnie, be careful, prepare; for a storm is gathering for you to meet that will test your womanhood to its very center?"  Oh, yes; when we see her suddenly stop the gay song that ever cheers her in her daily duties, and look thoughtful and anxious, surely it must be that she has heard the warning whisper; because now her eyes are turned to the heavens above her, and that prayer of prayers taught by God Himself comes in low, sweet accents from her lips.  Then courage seems to throw light at her feet, and with confidence she treads her way, while her joyous song is again resumed, and echoes and re-echoes from rock to rock, each vibration and new echo, like a joy of the past, growing sweeter and sweeter as it dies away in the distance.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>PREPARING FOR SEA--CAPTAIN WARD AND BROWN.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Captain Ward reached San Francisco, he found his gang a good deal demoralized by his absence.  Many of them refused to attend the meetings of the gang, and carried on their depredations on the community on their individual responsibility and profit.  Many had gone to the mines, where good opportunities always offered for stealing gold-dust.  Scarcely a day passed that did not bring us accounts from some mining district of the summary execution of a thief, or of a murderer and a thief both.  This prompt action soon began to turn back the thieves to San Francisco.  Ward saw his position, and understood that his time was short to complete his preparations and carry out his plans.  So, after a consultation with Brown and Jack Lawson, he commenced to select his crew for the Blue Bell, provision her for a long voyage, and put her in fighting trim in every respect.  All this he did in a quiet way, using his own men, of course, to take the supplies to the bark, and no one seemed to observe him, or care to inquire into his business.  Every one in those days was so intent on his own business or speculations that he paid but little attention to what his neighbor was doing.  Brown alone understood the part of his plan that related to Minnie, and, disliking it very much, he made one more effort to dissuade Ward from it; but he found him more determined than ever.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I tell you, Brown," he said, "there is no use in your mentioning the matter to me.  I loved that girl before I saw her.  Now that I have seen her, I love her ten times more.  Yes; I love her with fiercest passion, and yet I hate her with the most deadly hate.  I cannot account for this myself, yet it is true.  My fate is linked with her in some way, and when I am near her I see that she knows it; for she shudders when I speak to her, and she never returns me a smile.  No; her eyes look almost defiant when I strive to draw one from her.  Oh, yes; I both love and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>554</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, have your own way, then; but I have apprehensions in regard to the Lawsons.  I see old Jack is delighted with your attention to Lizzie, and thinks you will surely marry her.  When we were taking goods on board the bark the other day, I was surprised to see on board the lighter, one of those beautiful ladies' Chinese work-tables.  I asked him what in the world he bought it for.  `That,' said he, with a grim smile, `is for the Captain's wife.  I will present it to her as the Blue Bell passes out to sea.'"</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Brown told this circumstance, Ward's face grew dark and serious.  Then he said in a bitter, contemptuous tone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The old rascal fairly loves me, and, if he behaves himself, I will do well for this girl of his; but he must not put on any airs with me, or he will find his mistake; that is all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Brown, "how about De Forest?  He may be in your way far worse than Jack Lawson; for, if he undertakes to hunt up your history, San Francisco might become a little too warm a place for any of us gentlemen to reside in."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Ward, with a laugh; "other places might be more healthy for us; so I intend to save my friend De Forest all the trouble of making such useless inquiries as to my past history."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I thought you were to have attended to that matter long ago, Captain?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; the day I left Colonel Eaton's my intention was that he should never go back to Oregon; but, you see, he hung around Colonel Eaton's four days longer than he said he would, and in that way slipped through the city when `Seagull Tim,' who had taken the job, was not expecting him.  When I found this had happened, I thought at first I would send Tim after him to Oregon; but, on reflection, I thought there would be too much risk in that way of doing up the business, so I determined to wait until he came to California again, which he surely will do, from what Walter Wagner writes me.  Then the job can be done under my own supervision, and there will be no risk or slip-up about it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I think you are right, Captain," said Brown; "for the least mistake might be fatal to us all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That is my view exactly, Brown; and, although I would like my little sweetheart to be thinking as soon as possible of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>555</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"What did Wagner say in his letter, Captain?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, he is coming to it all right."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And, as Ward spoke, he took out of his pocket-book a letter, saying: "Here; I will read you the last part of it.  He addresses me.  `My very dear friend Ward,' and runs on to say:</P>
181.sgm:<P>I delayed answering your last letter until I had fully made up my mind in regard to your very liberal proposition.  I can now say that, on mature deliberation, I have come to the conclusion to accept your offer, if we agree on minor details of the arrangement, of which I have but little doubt.  I find it will be impossible for me to sever my connection with Mr. Hilton before the tenth of May, next.  How will this suit Mr. Brown?  Please see him, and let me know if he can wait so long.  If he can, I will go down to the Bay in the first part of February; then we can come to a complete understanding.  My sister is well, and thanks you for your message.  When I visit San Francisco, she will be with me as far as Colonel Eaton's, to whom she is anxious to pay a visit.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"So you see, Brown, all goes right, so far, with this confiding young gentleman.  I forgot to tell you that I had a long talk with Sam Brannan, whose acquaintance I have been cultivating.  It would make you laugh to hear him, he is so fierce on thieves.  One would suppose Sam was a saint himself, and that he never had anything to do with gobbling up city property.  He and some others are determined to organize a vigilance committee, to hunt out the Sydney thieves.  I agreed with him, of course; and told him to put my name down for two hundred dollars, to help."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, that may make things hot for us here yet; but what would poor Sam do if this vigilance committee, as soon as they got through hanging and banishing the small thieves, should take the bit in their mouth, and just turn around on the big thieves?  The hypocritical villains, who are a sort of legal robbers, as you may say; that nice little gang of delectable spirits, who, sitting in council as the city fathers, the guardians of the people, contrived, by cunningly-devised ordinances, to transfer the city money, by a hundred thousand at a blow, into their own pockets, and for their own aggrandizement despoil the city of her inheritance of real estate.  Yes; where, then, would be many of the fellows, now calling for a vigilance committee, if that was to happen?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"In that respect you are right, Brown; but that will not help <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>556</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, if you were not fascinated by this Yankee girl, we could be off in a week."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What is the use, Brown, in talking to me in that way?  My destiny, I tell you, is no ordinary one.  As a wolf, I have planned and led on to murder and robbery on a small scale, and hunted down such small game as Lizzie Lawson in matters of love.  But now, as a lion, I will take the broad ocean as my field, where I will plunder and murder as monarchs do.  I will stand out boldly, with my bloody dagger in my hand, and call on all who dare to come and take me.  And who will have the impudence to compare me with those low, mean, sneaking thieves who obtain seats in city councils and in legislative halls, by hypocritical and lying pretences, for no other purpose than to enrich themselves and their confederates by betraying every trust reposed in them?  These fellows profess honesty, and even talk and make speeches about religion and God, while living and acting just as much in defiance of all laws, either human or divine, as I do.  They add hypocrisy to their villainy.  I do not; and surely a girl of the noble stamp of Minnie Wagner, if compelled to choose between me and one of those sneaking thieves, would prefer the bold, acknowledged outlaw."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Captain; I believe if compelled, as you say, she would take the bold villain before the sneaking thief.  But the next question is, who is to compel Miss Minnie Wagner to choose the one or the other?  I am satisfied that her clear judgment will enable her to avoid both; and I tell you that you are mistaken if you fancy that her brother will ever attempt to control her, for the fellow fairly worships the girl."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Brown; I do not expect him to control her; and I tell you that I expect to put him in a position where disgrace will stare him in the face, and then I will go to Minnie myself, and I will offer to save him, if she will take me for her husband.  Then my game is made; for she will sacrifice herself to save him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, if you can get him in that position, it will undoubtedly give you an immense power over him; but how you are to do that I cannot understand; for I can see that he is as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>557</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I know all that, Brown; but you shall see when the time comes.  You have nothing in you but the wolf, and he is naturally cowardly, and no match for the wolf and the lion together, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, well, Captain; I don't care to have those sort of compliments; and, if I was inclined to pay them back, I would just tell you that sometimes it comes into my head that you are the child of the arch-fiend himself.  Your appetite for villainy seems so exquisite, and you never seem to suffer from remorse; while I sometimes have turns in which I taste hell itself!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here Ward laughed, as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, you do?  Well, you may as well be getting used to it, old fellow, for that is where you are to go, sure.  No; as you say, I never have such turns while I am awake; but, what is strange, they do come to me sometimes lately in my dreams."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is that so, Captain?  Why, you surprise me!  I did not suppose that, either asleep or awake, you ever knew such a feeling as fear of the future."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Brown; I am not afraid of it; but, as I said, I have lately had strange visions in my dreams.  Now, last night, for instance, I had a vision of hell, and I thought all the people I had ever helped out of the world were trying to drag me into it, and that I resisted them all, until, at last, I was astonished to see Lizzie Lawson come to drag me like the rest.  I thought she gave out a terrible, frightful laugh as she took hold of me, and that I had no power to resist her.  So, into the yawning chasm of molten fire she flung me, and, as I was tumbling in, I heard my mother's shriek as plainly as I used to do, when my father kicked and beat her.  It was that shriek that awoke me.  I was not long in finding that it was a dream, and I laughed at its absurdity.  That was the only effect it had on me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While Ward related his vision or dream, Brown's eyes were fixed on him with a frightened expression.  Then he said, in a loud voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How strange that was about Lizzie Lawson!  Have you and she had any difficulty?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Difficulty!  Of course not.  She fairly fawns at my feet."  Here Ward gave chuckling laugh, as he continued: "Why, she fancies herself my wife, already.  I had to persuade her to that."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Does old Jack know how matters stand between you and Lizzie, Captain?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no; I think she may have told him that I had promised to marry her; that is all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, and how in the mischief are you to manage him when you throw her off?  That is what I don't understand."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I told you before, Brown, that what looks full of difficulty to you, is an easy matter to me.  I have this girl now in my power, so that I can make her lie and deceive her father and brothers in any way I like; and I will not undeceive her, as regards her relations with me, until the last moment.  No; I will say nothing until I have Jack and his boys safe at sea, when they will be in my power, and will not dare to whimper.  Yes; I can see my way clearly in the whole little game I have before me.  So just do as I tell you, Brown, and all will come out right."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, if anything goes wrong, it will not be my fault."</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>CONFESSION OF LOVE--CAPTAIN WARD'S ARRIVAL.</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was on the 19th of February, 1851, soon after the conversation related in the last chapter, between Ward and Brown, that the memorable attack was made on the store of C. J. Janson &amp; Co., in which the robbers got two thousand dollars, and left Mr. Janson for dead on the floor of his store.  This was the most audacious robbery that had yet taken place, and it fired the whole people with indignation.  They rose en masse, as it were, to hunt out the robbers.  Two men were arrested on suspicion, and gave their names as Burdue and Windred.  Mr. Janson thought he recognized these men as the parties who had robbed the store and attacked himself in such a murderous way.  A public meeting was called to devise some means to put a stop to this thieving and robbery, or, at least, to check it, if possible.  In all these movements, Sam Brannan and William T. Coleman took a leading part, and, unfortunately, were too radical in their views.  Brannan did not command much personal respect; but Coleman was then, as he has always been since, universally respected, and he had, therefore, great influence with the conservative part of the community.  He now joined Sam Brannan in urging the people to forthwith hang Burdue and Windred.  Brannan made furious speeches, which were applauded by unthinking people.  Not satisfied with this, Brannan had printed slips circulated among the excited crowd, urging the immediate lynch-law execution of the prisoners.  And to these he affixed Coleman's name with his own, though it was generally believed at the time that William T. Coleman never authorized him to do so.  Be this as it may, it was fortunate these efforts did not succeed, for the prisoners were soon afterwards proven, to the satisfaction of all, not to have been the men who committed the crime.  This blunder checked the Vigilance Committee movement for the next three months, but it gave Ward and his gang a warning which lessened their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>560</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Will you not walk as far as the outside gate with me?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>With a blush, and a little tremor in her voice, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; certainly; with pleasure."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As they now walked along the lane that led from the flower-garden gate to the outside main entrance, Minnie's head leant forward, and her sunshade hid her face.  De Forest gently raised her arm, and placed it within his own.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie," he began, in a low voice, "I was determined not to go away without having had a full talk with you; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>561</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, if I did prevent you from saying all you want to say to me, James, come back as soon as Walter is nicely started in business in San Francisco, and I will listen to all you want to say to me; and we will try to agree, you know, if possible."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But why could we not have had the talk this time, Minnie?  But perhaps you prefer to wait to see if you may not find some one with whom you would like to talk better than you do with me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie at once raised her eyes up to De Forest's face with a reproachful, almost sad look, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And is that the way you think of me, James?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, Minnie; it is not the way I think of you; I did not mean it.  I know you too well for that; and, Minnie, I tell you now what I never told you in plain words before."  As he spoke he clasped the hand holding his arm with his disengaged one, and, putting his head down close to hers, said: "I love you with all my inmost life; I love you so that your happiness is a thousand times dearer to me than my own; I long, I yearn for your love in return; and yet, if you could be happier by giving that love to any one else, I would want you to do so.  If I saw a dark cloud or a shadow on my path, I would never ask you to step beneath it with me; but when I look forward to the future, Minnie, and think of you as by my side in the journey through life, I can see no cloud or shadow, no tarnished name, no ease, no luxury, bought by dishonor, or a breach of confidence reposed either by the people at large or by an individual.  No; I can see no such cloud.  I have been fortunate in business, thank God for it, and what I wanted in seeking a conversation with you was to offer to share all I have on earth with you, Minnie, and to pledge to you the devotion of a life in guarding your happiness."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie, without seeking to withdraw her hand, raised her eyes with steadfast countenance to James' face, as she said, in a voice full of deep feeling:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"James, if the freaks of fortune had thrown a shadow or a cloud on your path, something here," laying her hand on her heart, "tells me that I would fly to your side to strive to clear it away, or by standing beneath it with you to make it easier for you to endure.  Yes; if you came to ask me to share with you a rugged, stormy journey through life, which it was your fate to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>562</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, Minnie, you make me happy and miserable both by what you say.  Yes; and almost make we wish that I had some dark cloud lowering over my future; for then your generous heart would compel you, as you acknowledge, to step beneath it with me.  But, no, Minnie; I am not so selfish as that.  I will try to be as generous as you are, and be satisfied to wait until  I come down in May next for my final answer.  And, now, before parting, Minnie, let me say one word of this man Ward.  I want to tell you that I have the strongest, overpowering dislike to him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As De Forest said this, Minnie involuntarily drew close to him, and he felt a shudder shake her arm as it rested on his.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah! you have the same feeling, I see, Minnie?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, James; I acknowledge I have at times a strange foreboding about him.  Perhaps it is because Mr. Hilton thinks so badly of him; but, you can depend on it, I will be on my guard.  And, now that you have spoken of it, I will tell you that it is an undefined fear of this man that makes me so determined not to leave Walter, or even think of anything that relates to myself, until Ward proves himself to be all he says he is; or until we find his true past history, about which Mr. Hilton insists there is a mystery."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, now that I see you are on your guard, and that I know Isaac Hilton has his eyes open, I will be much easier.  So, good-bye, Minnie, and may God bless you and guard you both; and pray for me!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>As he said the last words, he stooped, and before Minnie knew it he had kissed her cheek, and found it wet with tears.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Good-bye, James," she said, looking up with a smile; "and do not go away thinking I am unhappy; for I am truly very happy, even if there is, in my imagination, a cloud on Walter's path, that must be cleared away."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Again good-bye, Minnie," said De Forest, as he leaped on his horse; and, as both now looked towards the outer gate, there stood Ward leaning over it, with his large, dark eyes full on them.  It was as much as Minnie could do to suppress a scream.  She did, however, command herself in time, and bowed to Ward in recognition of his presence.  Ward had evidently just arrived from Sacramento, and had alighted from his horse to open the gate.  As De Forest approached, Ward threw the gate open, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How are you, De Forest?  I am so glad to see you.  Forgive me, my dear fellow, for intruding on you at such a moment; but I had just reached the gate as you and Miss Minnie came in sight, and, as I saw your conversation was peculiarly interesting to you both, I forbore passing until you got through."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You were most considerate, Captain," said De Forest, in a most sarcastic tone; "but I regret your stopping one moment, for your presence would not have made the least difference to me, one way or the other, I assure you; and it would have saved you a painful watch.  Good afternoon, Captain!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>As De Forest spoke, he drove his long California spurs into his horse's flanks, and was out of hearing before Ward could reply.  As he dashed on his road, he murmured to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I feel easy, now that I know she is on her guard.  What a noble, generous, dear girl she is!  Well, she's as good as acknowledged that she loved me; so I am sure of that, anyway.  May is a long way off, yet it will be here soon, after all; and then I will be, as she said, sitting near her, and then--and then--oh, how happy I shall be!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>When De Forest rode off, Ward walked on through the gate, and soon overtook Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Miss Minnie," said he, "I was just apologizing to our friend De Forest for having come so inopportunely, to disturb that little te&circ;te-a&grave;-te&circ;te between you and him; but he received my apology, I must say, most ungraciously, Miss Minnie.  Have I ever acted towards you in any manner unbecoming a gentleman and a man of honor?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Most certainly not, Captain."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, then, Miss Minnie, all I ask is to be treated by your friends as a gentleman should be treated."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Most certainly, Captain.  Whenever I have influence, you shall be treated in no other way."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Have you no influence with De Forest, Miss Minnie?  I had an idea that the poor fellow was your slave."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are mistaken Captain.  There is no relation between Mr. De Forest and myself, that would authorize me to remark on his conduct towards any one."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No?  Well, then, Miss Minnie, permit me to say that he takes liberties I would not dare to take."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie felt her cheeks burn; but, preserving her calm voice, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. De Forest and myself were brought up from childhood together, and we regard each other as almost brother and sister.  So I am not disposed to quarrel with him because he sometimes seems to forget that we are no longer children, and that, in fact, we are not brother and sister."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward remained silent for a moment as he walked on by Minnie's side, leading his horse.  Then he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Miss Minnie, will you honor me by taking my arm?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie knew that Ward had seen her leaning on De Forest's arm, and, from what he said, saw De Forest kiss her cheek.  She wanted to decline taking his arm, but her doing that would give a marked significance to her free, off-hand treatment of De Forest, which she wished to avoid just now.  So, without any hesitation that was perceptible to Ward, she took his arm until she reached the flower-garden gate, when she made an excuse of picking some flowers, which she was now, apparently, very busy in arranging in a bouquet.  Ward was evidently satisfied with Minnie's behavior to him, and selected some flowers for her, which she placed among the others, saying something complimentary to his taste.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Miss Minnie," he said; "you do not know what a pleasure it is for me to think that flowers I have selected have a place with those gathered by yourself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter's approach at that moment relieved Minnie from the necessity of an answer.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Good morning, Captain," said Walter, walking over and cordially shaking hands; "I am so glad to see you, as we are about to start back to Downieville early to-morrow morning, and I wanted to say a few words to you or to Brown on business which I had forgotten when I was in San Francisco, and of which I could speak better than I could write."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Wagner, that is all right; but I will be candid with you, and tell you that it was not to see you that I came.  I could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>565</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie bowed, and made a good effort at a smile.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That is all right, Captain; you are always so gallant that you could not say less; but business must be attended to.  So, sister Minnie, please excuse us, and we will soon be in."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie was but too glad to excuse them; so, as Walter took the Captain's arm and walked off with him, she dashed into the house, and in a moment more was alone in her room.  She closed the door, and walked quickly across to the open window, and threw the bouquet as far as she could into a field of tall wheat.  As she did so, she said, in a low voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Some of you sweet flowers were innocent, but bad company has made you all intolerable to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then she went to her wash-stand, and, while seemingly absorbed in thought, she poured out some water and carefully washed her hands, saying while she did so:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How foolish I am to have such a terrible dislike to that man; but I cannot control my feelings.  I did not feel easy until I had thrown those flowers away and washed my hands.  I must try, however, to get over it, for he is so attached to Walter."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie now threw herself into an easy chair, and seemed lost in thought.  Then she said, half-aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Poor James!  How lonesome he looked when he was going away, all alone, for such a long journey up there to Oregon!  I could not help shedding tears at the thought of it.  He found that out when he kissed my cheek, and it made him feel worse, I fear; but I told him I was happy, and so I was, and am now.  I did not know I loved him in the way he wishes me to love him.  I knew I loved him as I loved Walter; but when he told me to-day how he wanted me to love him, it made me feel so strange, and, oh, so happy, that it must be that I love him as he wants me to love him.  How generous he was to give up urging me when I spoke of Walter!  Well, he will come back in May, and I have promised to let him then sit near me and say all he wishes to say.  This is February.  March, April, May.  Three months!  That seems a long time; but I suppose it will not be long in passing, after all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then she paused, and then drew from her neck the locket containing Walter's miniature and James' rose-bud.  She smiled as she looked at them, pressed the locket to her lips and replaced it.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>At that moment Fannie opened the door, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"May I come in?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, dear Fannie; come in."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do you know, Minnie, that Captain Ward is here?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; I have had a talk with him, and I will be ever so much obliged to you, dear Fannie, if you will entertain him; and if he asks for me, just say that I have lain down, as I do not feel very well to-day; for such, in fact, is the case.  I was just about to lie on the sofa here when you opened the door."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Minnie spoke she wrapped a shawl around her, and cuddled up comfortably on the sofa.  Fannie smiled archly, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie, would you feel too badly to go down if it was James De Forest who had to be entertained?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie blushed, and half-laughed, as she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Fannie, you are too bad; but if it was James De Forest and Walter who had to be entertained, perhaps neither of us would have to coax the other much to undertake the task."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now Fannie blushed scarlet, while Minnie's eyes lit up with triumphant fun, as she exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There; I am even!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Fannie stooped over her, and whispered:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie, you are a good-for-nothing, mischievous, wicked girl; that is all I have to say."  And she started out of the room, while Minnie laughed heartily.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward found himself compelled to take the excuse Fannie gave for Minnie's non-appearance, and after lunch took his departure, leaving highly complimentary messages for Minnie.  As he rode slowly towards Sacramento, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I caught them nicely; but she turned it off well, and, in fact, it may be, as she says, that there is nothing between them, after all; for his manner to her is more like that of a brother than a lover.  Oh, he can not love her, anyway, as I do; for she haunts me like a phantom day and night.  What a wild, maddening feeling I had while her arm was in mine.  Oh, how near it brought me to acting the madman!  But her taking her arm away just at the time she did, saved us both; and one thing I have decided on: I cannot have this fellow De Forest playing around her any longer.  No; I will put Seagull Tim on his track as he goes back to Oregon.  He always makes sure work of such jobs, and I will trust him this time, let the consequences be what they may."</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>ATTEMPTED ASSASSINATION--A CONSULTATION.</P>
181.sgm:<P>About three days after Walter and Minnie had returned to High Canyon, Walter received a letter from Captain Ward, in which was inclosed a slip cut from the Portland, Oregon, local newspaper.  In reference to this inclosure, Ward said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You will see by the slip I inclose you that our mutual friend De Forest has had a truly wonderful escape from the hands of an assassin.  How glad I am that the fellow paid with his life for his cowardly assault!  We are in a quiet way doing all we can to ferret out who this fellow Lusk can be, that the dying rascal said had instigated him to the horrid crime.  I think I know him, and, if I am right, he is now captain of a schooner which will be back in port in two or three months."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter, in the greatest excitement, called Minnie, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You must not be frightened, Minnie, when I tell you that James De Forest has had an escape from death.  He is, however, well, and perfectly safe--thank God!  Our friend, Captain Ward, sends us the account.  Here it is, in a slip cut from an Oregon paper."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So Walter read the following aloud, while Minnie sat on the sofa, trembling and pale:</P>
181.sgm:<P>In the matter of the inquest held to-day on the body of Timothy Dutton, alias "Seagull Tim," Mr. James De Forest, being sworn, said to the Coroner's jury:  After we were a day at sea, on my last trip from San Francisco, I observed, as I thought, a man watching all my movements, particularly when I was alone, which annoyed me very much, as I was somewhat inclined to be alone on this trip home.  One evening I walked forward, and, as I thought, unobserved by any one, I climbed up and sat upon a furled sail upon the bowsprit, and was lost in thought, with my eyes on the breaking, foaming waves our bark was dashing through.  After a few minutes, I was startled from my reverie by a noise as of a fall behind me; I turned quickly, and, throwing my eyes over the sail I was seated on, I saw the deceased here just jumping up from the deck, where he had evidently fallen from somewhere near my position.  I drew my revolver in an instant, and leaped on the deck beside him.  He looked at me in apparent surprise, saying:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I did not know there was any one up there."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I don't know whether to believe you or not; but I am satisfied that you have your eyes a little too much on me to be comfortable.  Now, once for all, I warn you that if I catch you following me in any way, on this ship or when we get to Oregon, I will blow the top of your head off as sure as you are a Sydney duck; for I know where you come from by the cut of your jib."  The fellow said, in a sullen way, as he walked off:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I meant no harm, and I did not know you were there."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He fell, and we picked him up, and, bringing him in, he proved to be the man who had annoyed me so much on the passage from San Francisco.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>569</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As Walter read the last words Minnie, without speaking, arose and went into her room.  She closed the door and dropped on her knees beside her bed, and, with her face buried in her hands, gave way to her feelings in a burst of thankfulness to God for His wonderful protection of him she so dearly loved.  Her words of praise and thankfulness were accompanied by a flood of tears she could not hold back.  They were tears of gratitude to God and of sympathy for the danger James De Forest had passed through.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Isaac Hilton read the account of the attack on De Forest, he remained in thought for a long time.  Then he said to Mrs. Swan:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I have an idea who this Lusk is, that the robber spoke of; but I do not say a word, for, of course, I might be mistaken; and I hope I am mistaken, for Walter Wagner's sake."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The next day Walter received a long letter from James De Forest himself, giving all the particulars of the attempt on his life, but at the same time making light of it.  The only thing that disturbed him, he said, was to find that he had such a bitter enemy.  He concluded the subject by saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>A horrible suspicion as to who this man Lusk, who seeks my life, is, has forced itself on my imagination.  When I go to the city in May, I will take some trouble to investigate the matter.  I will do this in justice to the party I am forced to suspect.  I will, therefore, mention no names now, particularly as I hope to find that I am totally in the wrong.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>The last few words of the letter seemed to be addressed directly to Minnie, in this way:</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now, my dear Miss Minnie, pray on for me; for I cannot but believe that it was those prayers you promised me that saved me from the assassin's hand, and that makes life sweeter than ever to me; and I want you to consider it all at your service as a matter of right,</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Walter finished reading, he exclaimed:  "Who can it be that De Forest suspects?  I cannot imagine."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie gave a little start and a shudder, but said nothing.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The morning that the news of Seagull Tim's attempt on De Forest's life reached San Francisco, Ward was seated in his room, at the finest hotel in the city, the Oriental, quietly smoking his cigar, when Brown burst into his room in great excitement, closed the door, and said in almost a whisper:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Seagull Tim made a mis-blow, and I fear our game is all up."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"He did!" said Ward, as he turned deadly pale.  "Well, I will sink him with a piece of lead fastened to his neck, in the middle of the bay when the dog gets back."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, you will not; for he is dead."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dead!" repeated Ward.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes.  Here, take this Portland paper and read the account for yourself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Brown handed the paper, he pointed out the place where the account of the Coroner's inquest was given.  While Ward read, he was more agitated than Brown had ever seen him.  When he concluded, he growled out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, all is right.  The miserable villain choked before he betrayed us.  That is first-rate, anyway."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Brown made no remark, and Ward arose and paced the floor in thought for some minutes.  Then he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You see, Brown, I am in luck after all; for, if that dog had lived half a second longer, we would now be in the hands of Sam Brannan and Wm. T. Coleman, and their merciful lambs, on our way, most likely, to ornament some impromptu gibbet, for the amusement of those Yankees.  So, you see, as I say, luck is on our side, or it may be that the devil has too much business for us yet, to let us be caught.  Oh, how glad I am that the fellow choked just as he did!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I was in hopes, Captain," said Brown, in a dogged tone, "that this would show you the necessity of abandoning your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>571</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Pshaw!  Brown; you are a child.  I often told you so before.  You are of the wolf breed, and cannot understand the boldness of the lion.  I have told you three times before that I am, in truth, infatuated by this girl, and can no more draw myself off from pursuing her, no matter what the consequence may be, than I could subdue a storm at sea, that was rushing me on the rocks."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, I hope this passion of yours will not rush <HI REND="italics">us all</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Don't be a coward, Brown.  I tell you that luck is on my side.  See how nicely Tim choked just at the right moment."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I wish he had choked before he mentioned the name of Lusk," said Brown.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; that would, of course, have been better, decidedly, as you say, Brown; but it is all right as it stands.  Was not Wild choked just as he was going to point me out!  One word more, and I would have been gone!"  And here Ward chuckled in his peculiar way, as he continued: "Oh, the old villain! how his eyes leaped out towards me, as it were, when he saw me in the crowd; but his arms being pinioned saved me, and in a moment more he was swinging in fine style.  Oh, yes; I managed that first-rate, and luck is on my side surely, Brown."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I forgot to tell you, Captain, that, at old Jack's request, I called to see his daughter Lizzie yesterday.  I found her well, but very anxious to see you.  She said you had not been there for some days, and told me that if I saw you to ask you to call.  I believe, Captain, that she loves you better than she loves her life; and she is really very handsome, and, in truth, a really educated lady in her manners.  She would go with you to the end of the earth; I could see that.  How I do wish that you could be satisfied with her, and then we could take her on board and be off to sea!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward stopped short in his walk up and down the room, and, turning to Brown, said, in a most angry tone:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"I tell you, Brown, that you must never again suggest my doing what I have so often told you it was impossible for me to do--that is, to give up Minnie Wagner.  Since our last conversation on this subject, I have grown half mad in regard to her.  I think of her all day, and dream of her all night.  When I am near her now, I am a man like other men, it appears to me, and every tone of her voice reverberates through me.  Yes; strange as it is, I love that girl to almost madness.  When she put her arm on mine the other day, a strange feeling I never experienced before took possession of me.  I could not say a word to her.  I had a notion of dropping on my knees before her, and telling her how I loved her, and swearing fidelity to her; and then, if she discarded me, of killing her and myself both on the spot.  Yes; if our walk had been ten yards longer, that is what would have happened; but we reached the garden-gate just in time to save me from the mad act.  Then she took some flowers from me, and spoke so kindly to me that I was in a wild dream of love--yes, love--all the way back to San Francisco.  No, Brown; my fate, as I often told you before, is linked to this girl in some mysterious way, and she shall marry me, or die by my hand; that is decided.  If you admire that girl Lizzie so much, I will turn her over to you, and you are welcome to her.  I want no more of her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, Captain; thank you!  I want nothing to do with her.  I prefer to die some other way than by old Jack's sheath-knife being drawn across my throat some bright morning."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Pshaw!  Brown; his sort have no such feeling as you suppose.  I will take my queen, my empress that is to be, on board the Blue Bell, right before the eyes of old Jack and his two sons, and you will see that they will cringe like wolf whelps before my look, and obey me like kicked dogs."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, a sort of luck does seem to be with you.  So lead on, and I will not flinch."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward did not speak for a few minutes, but continued his walk up and down the room in thought.  At length, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Brown; all you have to do is to follow where I lead, and all will come out right.  In the first place, I will have to see the principal men of the Vigilance Committee, and mislead them as to who this man Lusk is.  I will pretend that I know him, and that he is now at sea in command of a schooner, and you know we can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>573</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>This ended the conference, and Ward carefully pursued the plan he had laid out, and was most successful in deceiving all who took an interest in the matter of the attempted murder.  In a few days, as was always the case in California at that time, the whole circumstance of the attempted assassination of De Forest appeared forgotten.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE ROBBERY--MINNIE'S ENCOURAGEMENT.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The terms of separation between Walter and Hilton were that Hilton was to take the store goods and all moneys due the firm in High Canyon, for which he was to pay Walter nine thousand dollars.  Seven thousand of this was to be cash down, and one thousand in three months, without interest, and one thousand in four months, also without interest.  The date of the dissolution of partnership was to be May 10th.  These terms were satisfactory to both parties, although Hilton very much regretted Walter's withdrawal, and had done all he could to dissuade him from doing so.  Since the date of Minnie's arrival in High Canyon, everything had been so bright and cheerful that Hilton looked forward to her leaving with the most lonesome feeling.  Good Mrs. Swan, too, felt very much down-hearted at the prospect before her.  She really loved Minnie, and found it very had to part from her; and then she must of course lose a nice harbor she had found in her sorrowful widowhood.  One day, as the 10th of May was very near in its approach, Mrs. Swan sat absorbed in sad thoughts of her peculiar position, and tears were flowing down her cheeks.  She gazed out of the dining-room window in a vacant way.  Isaac Hilton, happening to pass, looked up and saw the tears on the widow's face.  He stopped, turned around, and walked towards the dining-room, saying to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, she looks as sad as I have felt all day myself.  I will see what is the matter, for I respect and like her very much."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Well, we will not follow the good Isaac in his mission of charity; for he might prefer to be alone.  But certain it is, that a great improvement in the spirits of both Mrs. Swan and Mr. Hilton appeared that afternoon; so much so that Walter and Minnie remarked it.  The explanation did not fully appear until the morning of Walter and Minnie's departure, when they were surprised to find that Mrs. Swan and Mr. Hilton were unusually <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>575</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Walter had with him the seven thousand dollars in gold-dust, received in accordance with his agreement with Hilton.  Five thousand of this was to be paid in as his share of the capital of the new firm of Wagner &amp; Brown, and two thousand was to be used in furnishing the cottage he had rented in San Francisco.  Brown had already bought the furniture and fitted up the cottage, and Walter was to pay the bills on reaching the city.  Walter and Minnie arrived safely in the city.  Brown and Ward met them at the wharf, as the boat arrived, about half-past nine in the evening.  Captain Ward was all attention, and whispered to Walter:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Give the packages of gold-dust to Brown, and he will put them in our safe at the Oriental Hotel, where we have some twenty thousand belonging to Brown and myself, which was paid to us this evening after banking hours.  It will be perfectly safe, as Brown will stay in the room until I get there, and in the morning we will deposit the whole with Page, Bacon &amp; Co."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As a matter of course, Walter did not hesitate to hand over his two bags of gold-dust to his new partner.  Then, taking Minnie's arm, Walter invited Ward to walk with them to the cottage.  The cottage was situated between two sand-hills on Pine street, a little above Kearny street.  Jane, the hired girl that Brown had procured for Minnie, had some supper all ready for them, and everything looked neat and in order.  The furniture was very handsome, and Minnie felt quite happy in taking possession of her new home.  Ward was less pressing in his attentions and compliments to Minnie than usual, and she thought that, perhaps from this very fact, he never looked to so much advantage before.  However, she did not feel easy in his company; so, making an excuse of fatigue from traveling, she retired almost immediately after their cup of tea.  An hour later, when Ward had left, Walter knocked at his sister's door to wish her a good-night, and, receiving no answer, he gently opened the door and softly advanced, with the light in his hand, close to her bed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>576</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>And now, my dear young readers, I fancy that you stand by Walter at that moment, and that you exclaim:  "Sleep on, poor, dear Minnie; draw all the strength from that sweet sleep you can to invigorate your beautiful physical structure; for you will need it all.  Yes, Minnie; dream of your childhood; your sweet mother; and in your dream sit again in her lap as you used to do.  Throw your arms around her neck; lay your head on her noble bosom; listen again to her wise counsel and earnest teachings; and draw from it a new inspiration of faith and fortitude.  Yes, Minnie; and in that dream drop again upon your knees, and ask a father's and a mother's blessing, as you did long ago; for, oh, Minnie, to-morrow's light will bring to your new home the first chilly blast of the storm that has been gathering and brewing over you.  Yes; a storm so dark and terible that at times you can see no path by which to escape; but your unwavering trust in God will fill your true woman's heart with courage and confidence, as it has in every difficulty; and, though dark the way before you, in the light of His law you will step forward with unfaltering tread, and His angels will guard your feet from every danger, and lead you through every difficulty."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When the brother and sister met the next morning, they were happy and cheerful.  As breakfast was concluded, the bell rang, and, on Walter's going to the door, he found a message form Captain Ward, desiring his presence, as soon as it was possible, at the Oriental Hotel.  In obedience to the summons, Walter took his hat and left immediately.  As soon as Walter had gone, Minnie put on her walking-dress and hat, and, taking the hired girl with her, who was familiar with the way to Father Maginnis' church, near the Orphan Asylum, on Market street, they found the old man very busy about the asylum.  Minnie, without hesitation, opened her business to him, which was to take two seats in his church.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Tut, tut!  Could you not do that, as everybody else does it, on Saturday afternoon?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"I did not know it made any difference, Father, on what day I came."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Difference!  Of course it does.  Don't you see how very busy I am?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Father, I will come on Saturday, as you can not attend to it now," said Minnie, rising to go, and feeling a little mortified at the manner of her reception.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And come all the way here again in this deep sand and wind?  What would you do that for?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, as you are so busy, Father."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I suppose you have business, too; for every one in California has business, and as much as they can do, too, without being bothered to make two journeys about one thing; so come with me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>They entered the church by a side door.  Everything looked calm, still and solemn in the little church.  The Father turned towards the altar, dropped on his knees, and remained a minute with his head bowed down in prayer.  Minnie slipped into an open pew, and followed his example.  The Father arose, and beckoned her to draw near him, and in a whisper said, as he pointed to an open pew:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How would you like your two seats in that pew?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you; that will do nicely, Father;" and Minnie followed the priest out of the church.  As soon as they were outside, she said:  "Now, Father, how much am I to pay?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>He named the sum necessary for three months, and she handed him the money.  As he wrote the receipt, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Wagner--that is an uncommon name for a Catholic, but I knew a worthy couple in Newark, New Jersey, of that name.  I was two or three times at their house with Father Kelly."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Father; and they were my parents."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Your parents!" said Father Maginnis in surprise, looking closely for the first time at Minnie, and continuing:  "Yes; you do look like Mrs. Wagner.  I see it now."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Father; and that was one of the reasons why I came this morning, for here is a letter to you from mother, drawing herself to your recollection."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I recollect her well," said the Father, taking the letter, and continuing:  "And why were you going away a few minutes ago, without handing me this letter?  But I suppose you thought I was a cross old fellow, and that you would not give me the letter?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie was about to give some other excuse, when the Father interrupted her with:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Never mind; when you know me a little, you will find I am not so cross, after all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He read the letter carefully through, and, turning to Minnie, said in a familiar way:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie, bring your brother to see me; and when you write home, say to your mother that I will try to make you and him behave yourselves while you stay in San Francisco."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then looking at Minnie again, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There are a good many fellows here who will try to marry you, Minnie; but don't listen to any of them until you tell me.  Tell your brother Walter I said this."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie blushed, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Father, do not be afraid about that!  I do not want to get married.  But, if I ever do change my mind, I will never take any one who is not approved of by you and Walter both."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie, do you play and sing?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; a little."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I thought so, from your voice.  When you get settled, will you help us with our choir on Sundays?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; with great pleasure."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, come next Sunday, and I will introduce you.  Goodbye, Minnie; I am in a great hurry."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So Minnie was on her way back, well pleased with rough, kindhearted Father Maginnis, and San Francisco began already to feel more like home.  She felt as though she had thrown out an anchor to steady and hold their little craft in case of a storm.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Walter reached the Oriental Hotel, he was shown up to Captain Ward's room.  There he found everything looking in confusion and excitement.  In one corner stood two policemen, talking earnestly, but in low, mysterious voices, to Ward, and to each other.  As Walter entered, the door was locked behind him, and Ward came forward, and, in a sad, dejected tone, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My dear, dear fellow, I have sad news for you this morning; but I hope you will bear it like a man."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Walter, in a bold voice, "out with it, without preface."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right; I see you have the true Yankee pluck about you, Walter.  Well, we were robbed of every dollar we had in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>579</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Walter was stunned for a moment, and remained without speaking; all his hopes and prospects of yesterday he saw now dashed with one blow to the ground.  He tried to rally, but the blow was too severe to be at once overcome.  So, without speaking, he began to walk up and down the room, in deep thought.  His first thoughts were all of Minnie; her comfortable new home, where she and he had both expected so much enjoyment, had vanished.  Then his thoughts ran back to his darling mother, to whom he had just written, urging her to make immediate preparations to join them in San Francisco.  Then Fannie Eaton, somehow, came into his thoughts, and his heart sank very low, and he felt a suffocating sensation, as if half-choking.  Then he made another effort to rally.  He stopped short, and stamped with his foot on the floor, as if out of patience with himself and others, and, looking at the policemen and Ward, he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Let the confounded money go!  But how was it done?  I would like to know that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward started at this sudden address and change in Walter's demeanor; but, recovering himself in a moment, he explained how he had been chloroformed, and how the robbers had taken the key of the safe, which, unfortunately, had only a simple lock, out of his vest pocket, from under his head.  Then he introduced the two policemen to Walter, and told him that they advised that the robbery should be kept perfectly quiet, and that no one, in fact, should be informed of it.  The policemen then explained to Walter that this was their best chance of tracing out the robbers, and that they had great hopes of yet recovering the money; but that it might take days, and even weeks, to do it, and that all would depend on the robbery being kept perfectly secret.  Walter listened to all this, and then said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, in my judgment, the best way is to go right straight to Sam Brannan and William T. Coleman, and lay the case before them, and they will arouse the whole people in a search, and we will be sure to get the robbers, if not the money."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Walter, that would be patriotic, anyway; and I have a mind to agree to it, although I know it would make it perfectly sure that neither you, Brown nor myself would ever recover a dollar of the lost money; for, when the robbers would find themselves run close, they would throw the money in the bay rather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>580</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>So Walter agreed to wait, and in a few minutes more Brown arrived with two men, whom he introduced as detectives of the Vigilance Committee.  As they entered the room, Ward whispered to Walter:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You can rely on these men, Wagner; for it was I who got Coleman to place them in the sevice of the Vigilance Committee."</P>
181.sgm:<P>On being consulted, these men were even more decided than were the city policemen as to the policy of secrecy, and offered to take the matter into their own hands to work up.  The result was that Walter consented to this mode of proceeding.  Ward then took Walter aside, and said, in a depressed voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You will have, my friend, to let your poor, dear sister into the secret; but caution her against mentioning it to any one.  I assure you, my friend, I feel more for her in this matter than I do for any of us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I do not doubt it, Captain; but she is a little soldier from her childhood up, and I am not sure but that she will bear it better than any of us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I trust so, friend Walter; so go and break it to her gently, and, in an hour or so, I will call and consult with you as to what had best be done; for all those bills for your furniture are to come in to-morrow, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter started, turned a little pale, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sure enough; what on earth will I do?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, that is a very hard matter to decide, Walter; but I will call as I said, and we will consult about it.  So go to your poor sister without delay."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter left, and he was no sooner out of the room than a general merry laugh ran round the crowd he left behind him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain," said Brown, "you did that well, as you always do when you hold the helm yourself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"None of your laughing, boys," said Ward; "we have a nice game to play yet, and if you all do your parts as well as you did to-day, all will work to a charm."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Then, turning to Brown, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Go at once and start in all those bills for the furniture, and tell each man to say that he will call to-morrow afternoon for the money, in accordance with terms they sold on.  I will be at the house when the bills come, and will work up this part of my plan."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Walter reached home, Minnie had just taken off her things, and was giving some directions about lunch in a cheerful, happy voice, while the hired girl listened and talked at the same time.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, wasn't the old Father cross at first, though?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, Jane, a little; but it is his manner.  You can see that, and that he has a very kind, loving heart."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, Miss; sure that must be so, or he wouldn't take to caring for helpless children as a business for his whole life; that is plain, Miss."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I was glad to find he remembered mother and father.  It makes me feel as if I had found an old friend here in San Francisco.  He is the first I have found in the whole State, except one gentleman who is now in Oregon, though it is said that San Francisco is the greatest place in the world for meeting with old friends."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Miss; so they say.  But I have only just arrived from the States, and have met no one I knew before, as yet."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie at that moment heard Walter's step in the sitting-room, and went to meet him.  The moment her eyes rested on him, she saw something was wrong.  His step was slow, his eyes turned away from her look, and he was very pale, and looked excited.  She stopped short, as she walked towards him, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter dear, are you sick?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Without at once answering, he threw himself into a chair, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Minnie, dear; I am not sick, but I have some very bad news to tell you, and you must be a brave little woman and stand up against it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>With one bound, Minnie was opposite his chair, with her hands clasped tightly before her, her head leaned forward, her eyes fixed on Walter, and her whole expression of face, that of intense alarm; while the only word that escaped her lips was:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mother!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Minnie, no; I have heard nothing from dear mother, and am sure she is well."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"James De Forest?" said Minnie, without a change of position or countenance, but in a lower and softer tone.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, Minnie; it is not--"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Fannie Eaton?" went on Minnie, without waiting to hear Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, Minnie; it is not the death of any one."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank God! thank God!" said Minnie.  And she stood erect and clasped her hands on her temples, as if to steady her excited thoughts.  Then she threw herself into a chair near her brother, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, dear Walter, I know your news must indeed be bad, for you look so sad and pale.  But I can bear it now with composure, for I know it is not to take away our lives or the lives of loved ones; nor can it tarnish our names; and anything else, Walter, Californians ought not to shrink from.  All last night my dreams were of poor father and darling mother.  I was with them; and oh, so happy!  And they spoke to me of God, of truth, of courage and of fortitude, and smiled and blessed me.  So they were in my mind all day, and when you told me of bad news, I could think of nothing but poor mother."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter took Minnie's hand in his, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Your words have already given me courage, Minnie, so I do not hesitate to tell you that last night we were robbed of every dollar I brought down to the city.  In all, seven thousand dollars."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie stopped for a moment, while her hand grasped her brother's tightly.  Then, looking up calmly in his face, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, it is but a very little time since you arrived in this very city, without a dollar in your pocket, and fifty dollars in debt, and without any experience of California life.  You drove team for White, McGlynn &amp; Co., to make your first start.  Three times since then you made a handsome beginning after a sweeping loss.  You can do the same again.  Yes; and, if I cannot help you in your first move, I will at least be no drawback, for, you know, I can make hundreds of dollars giving music lessons in this city, which I will do until such time as you get a little ahead again."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Minnie, I am ashamed of myself when I hear you speak.  You are always so hopeful, so courageous.  Difficulties appear to be your glory, and somehow you always triumph over them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, I am but your sister in that respect; for every time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>583</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, then, Minnie, let come what will, we will not be discouraged.  Our present greatest difficulty is to pay for this furniture.  Captain Ward says he has something to suggest in regard to this point of the business; so let us hear what he has to say, before we decide what to do."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Walter told Minnie how the robbery had been effected, and all the particulars.  And just as he had concluded doing so, he saw Ward across the street.  Walter went to the door, and, as he reached it, the bell rang.  The Captain was evidently surprised to meet the brother and sister in such calm and selfpossessed spirits.  Minnie extended her hand to meet his, and said, with a smile:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"So you and Mr. Brown lost, too, Captain?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, my dear Miss Minnie; we lost all our ready money."  And then he added, in a low, mysterious voice:  "But I have great hopes, by keeping the matter a perfect secret, that we will recover most of the lost money."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; so my brother tells me.  But I must confess I am not sanguine."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, after some further talk over the robbery, Jane announced that lunch was ready, and the Captain accepted an invitation to join them, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"After lunch I will explain to you, Wagner, how you had better manage these furniture bills."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While they sat at lunch, the bell rang four times, and each time the girl went to the door, she came back with a bill for furniture, and a message that they would call to-morrow, in the afternoon, for the money.  When lunch was over, Ward and Walter lit their cigars, and retired to a little porch at the back part of the house, to smoke.  When seated, Ward began:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Friend Wagner, I see this terrible loss has put you in a tight place, old fellow.  Now, there is but one way out of it.  It is this:  Draw your note for two thousand dollars at sixty days, and get it discounted at Page, Bacon &amp; Co.'s bank."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"In the first place, Captain, they would not discount my note, unindorsed; and, in the next place, I could not meet it in sixty days, even if they did."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well, as to your last objection, Walter, I will have plenty of money by that time; for a five thousand dollar transaction <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>584</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Captain, that would be putting me under too much obligation to you.  I see no show of very soon repaying you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, there will be no difficulty about that, Walter; I may have to call upon you for a favor some time; and I think I see one not far in the distance now, that I will call on you for; so that will make us even, you know.  And when the two thousand dollars that Hilton owes you are paid, you can pay your note due me.  This plan will enable you to live here with your sister for the present, and you will soon find something to do, if we are not lucky in recovering our money from the thieves."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This proposition did look well to Walter; so he told the Captain he would take it into consideration, and call upon him early in the morning.  After the Captain left, Walter explained the proposition to Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Walter dear, you know you are the best judge in all matters of business.  The only objection I see to it, is that I have the greatest dislike to putting ourselves under such an obligation to Captain Ward.  As to meeting the note, why, as you say, the money due from Hilton will do that, after four months.  And then, you know, we can sell the the piano.  It is new, and pianos are scarce in San Francisco.  It was only by a chance Brown succeeded in getting it; so it ought to bring us the money readily."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear sister; we will sell it, or anything that is necessary; but I would rather look around and see what we can do before I sell anything, especially your piano.  I should think, Minnie, that you would now be satisfied that Captain Ward is a sincere friend.  See how, notwithstanding his own great loss, he thinks of us so kindly.  I know both you and De Forest have had a great prejudice against him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I confess, Walter, that you are right in that; but I now begin to hope we were mistaken."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Why, Minnie, how can you hesitate about it?  Look at his generous conduct on this occasion.  What could be more offhand and kind?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Walter, I say I begin to doubt my first impression.  First impressions are often right, but they are sometimes greatly in the wrong, too; and I now begin to hope this is one such case."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Begin</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, I am satisfied to take your view of this matter as the correct one, because the facts before us compel me to do so.  Let that satisfy you, dear Walter."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, that is all right, dear Minnie; and when James De Forest comes, he will be surprised to find how mistaken his judgment was in this case."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just as they had come to this compromise, the bell rang, and another furniture bill was handed in, with the same message that accompanied the others.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Early the next morning, Walter was at the Oriental Hotel.  Ward received him most cordially.  He drew from his desk a blank note, such as was used by the bank of Page, Bacon &amp; Co., and filled it up nicely for two thousand dollars at sixty days.  Walter signed it.  Then Ward told him to remain where he was while he went to get it indorsed by his friend.  In an hour he returned, and as he entered the room he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, did the young man bring the note?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Captain; I have seen no one since."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well," said the Captain, "he will be here in a few minutes.  When I went out that time I was called off, and I gave the note to a young friend of mine to take to Macondray &amp; Co. and request in my name to have that firm indorse it for me; and I told him as soon as indorsed to bring it to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Ward spoke, a not very prepossessing young man walked in, with the note in his hand.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I got here before you," said Ward, addressing the young man.  "Well, did the old Captain indorse it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Otis did, sir," said the young man, as he handed the note to Ward, now indorsed "Macondray &amp; Co."  "When I got there, the Captain was alone, and he said I would have to wait for Mr. Otis, as he never attended to that sort of business.  That was what delayed me."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well, that is all right.  You can go, Henry, as I have some business with my friend here."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, turning to Walter, Ward continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Are you acquainted at the bank, Wagner?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Not in the least."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, you will have to get some one well acquainted there to introduce you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I know John A. McGlynn.  I once worked for him.  I met him yesterday, and he recollected me, and was very friendly.  I am also well acquainted with the firm of Allen, Wheeler &amp; Co."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward thought a moment, and then said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, it is not necessary for you to go hunting up any one.  Let us walk up towards the bank, and I will strike some one just there, who will introduce you on my say so.  I would do it myself, but I have heretofore done my business with Burgoyne &amp; Co., and am not acquainted with the people at Page, Bacon &amp; Co.'s."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So, lighting their cigars, Walter and Ward walked up to Montgomery street, and stood talking at the corner of California and Montgomery.  In a few minutes Michael Reese came along, and, just as he turned to enter the bank, Ward stopped him, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Please let me ask you a favor, Mr. Reese."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Michael looked a little cautious, not knowing what was next coming, and there was a sort of a nervous twitching near his pocket, as if he feared a break was going to be made in that direction, in some way he did not comprehend.  However, as soon as he understood that that was not Ward's intention, an expression of relief and almost pleasure spread over Michael's great, big, always sorrowful-looking, fat face, and Ward went on:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I just want you, Mr. Reese, to recognize my friend, Mr. Wagner, here, in the bank, as he has a little business to do with them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"With pleasure," said Michael; and he walked in with Walter, and introduced him in an off-hand, decided way, as though he was an old acquaintance, and then went into the company's private office to attend to his own business.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The note was examined, found all right, and the money was handed out without hesitation to Walter, who immediately left to pay up his furniture bills, which he did that afternoon, and found that he had just two hundred dollars left.  This put him, for the present, quite at his ease, and he began to plan and make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>587</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie had been to see her old friend, Mrs. Allen, and was by her introduced to two or three families, who had daughters anxious to take music lessons.  So Minnie at once commenced to teach music, and found pupils enough to fill her spare hours.  As she had her own piano, the scholars came to her cottage, and her time passed pleasantly, as well as profitably.  She had one serious annoyance, that sometimes was almost intolerable to her.  It was Captain Ward's constant and devoted attentions.  When polite to him, he seemed to grow wild with excitement, and overwhelming in his devotions to her.  He brought her all sorts of little presents.  She did not want to take them; but yet they were too trifling to refuse.  When she was decidely cold and repelling in her manner, his countenance would often become frightfully dark; so that, in actual fear, she would again smile, and again he would grow fierce in his devotion.  Thus three weeks passed, and it was now the first week in May.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>MORE TROUBLE FOR WALTER--MINNIE'S REQUEST.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Walter walked off from the bank with the money to pay his furniture debts, Ward looked after him with a grim smile, as he muttered to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"He little thinks that he is now a forger in the eyes of the law, and that at any moment I can show him the door of San Quentin, if he refuses any request I make of him.  Oh, yes; my work is as good as done!  I have him now where I want him!  I wonder what would old Captain Macondray, or that sharp young Jim Otis think if they were to see that note discounted to-day, with their indorsement on it?  But it is an excellent imitation of their handwriting; I am proud of the way I executed it.  Yes; my old ability in that line has not left me.  If Jim Otis ever sees it, he will, at first, believe he must have written it himself; but he never will see it if Walter does as I order him to do.  Yes, <HI REND="italics">order</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Ward had now reached the Oriental, and found Brown waiting for him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Brown," said he; "all went off first-rate.  The note is in the bank; he has taken the money.  I have him now where I want him."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, how soon will you open on them, and bring things to a conclusion?  Do not wait too long, for I tell you these Yankee Californians can overcome any difficulty, and this fellow Wagner is one of them, sure.  The first thing you know will be that he has some lucrative speculation on hand, and that he has contrived to get the money to pay that note."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I grant you, Brown, that if you and I were asleep, that might be so.  No; we must watch to prevent his getting into any such good luck.  We can prevent it by throwing out hints, in a private way, to damage his character; but in doing so we must be careful to whom we talk of him, for a discovery that either you or I spoke of him slightingly would be ruinous.  It will not do for me to rush matters with my intended.  No; I must try to win the girl by soft means, so that she will find it easier to save her brother by taking me when the time comes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, how long are you going to fool around here?" said Brown, in a dissatisfied tone of voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I will promise you to bring things to a conclusion by the first week in May."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, Captain; I will hold you to your word."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In about two weeks after this conversation, Brown strolled one morning into Ward's room, and, as he threw himself into a chair.  he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, how do you come on in love matters?  Are you keeping Lizzie quiet, and are you winning your way all right with Miss Wagner?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"As to Lizzie," said Ward, laughing, "she is all right.  No trouble in that quarter, as I often told you before, though Miss Scott had the impudence to tell me, the last day I called there, that she `really thought it was time for me to save Miss Lawson from remark by at once fulfilling my engagement to her.'  I understood the old maid, but I did not pretend to.  She wanted to impress me as to the highly respectable character of her house.  Oh, yes; I understood her perfectly, but I gave her no satisfaction, and gave my usual excuse to Lizzie herself for not bringing the parson."  And here Ward laughed again, and then went on: "As to Miss Wagner, of whom you inquire, I can not say I get on very satisfactorily.  She is making more money than I like at teaching music, and is very independent all at once, as her brother would be, too, if I had not balked some of his plans.  Sometimes Minnie is in one mood, sometimes in another.  I will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>590</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>The last part of this speech was made in the bitterest tone of voice, and with a dark, fierce look.  Brown did not care to pursue the conversation any further; so rising, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I will hold everything about the Blue Bell in perfect readiness for sea."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, Brown; I will give you one day's notice."</P>
181.sgm:<P>On the morning following this conversation between the confederates, as Walter arose from the breakfast table, the bell rang, and he was handed a note.  It was from Ward, and ran in this way:</P>
181.sgm:<P>MY DEAR FRIEND: I want to see you at once.  I have made a painful discovery, which you should at once know of.  Come as soon as you can to my room at the Oriental, but do not let Miss Minnie know that I have sent for you, as we must keep the painful discovery from her.  Your sincere friend,<HSEP>WARD.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie's eyes were on Walter while he read the note, and she saw that he looked surprised and troubled; but she waited in silence for him to speak.  Walter read the note over a second time.  Then, turning to Minnie and handing it to her, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I wonder what in the world that can mean!  He says not to mention the matter to you, Minnie; but Captain Ward does not know that you are my chief of counsel--my first lieutenant, without whom the ship, in the first place, would never have put to sea, and in the next place, without whom it would have gone ashore after it was at sea."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie was too anxious as to the contents of the note to notice Walter's compliments.  She glanced over it quickly; then did as Walter had done--read it slowly over again.  Looking up with the same sort of surprise on her countenance, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I cannot imagine, Walter, but I suppose it must be that they have discovered something that shows the impossibility of your ever getting back a dollar of the stolen money."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Minnie; that must be what it means.  But that does not bother me much, for I had but very little hope left about that money."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, the fact is, I am glad the matter is at an end, Walter, for the hope was a sort of drawback to you.  So go and see what it is, and come and tell me."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Walter at once left for the Oriental Hotel, and Minnie, feeling sure that they anticipated correctly what the trouble was, waited without much anxiety for Walter's return.  In an hour he came, but he was pale and haggard-looking.  His step, as he approached the house, was awkward and unsteady.  Minnie saw all this from the window, and, springing to the door, threw it open, seized Walter's arm, and, looking up into his face with a countenance as pale as his own, but calm, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Speak, darling Walter, speak!  And, whatever it is you have to tell, try and not forget that God is right here by us, and will guard us!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie," said Walter; "the news is surely bad, but, as you say, God can guard us, and to Him alone can we turn."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Go on, darling Walter!  Courage has already come to me to listen."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While speaking, they had entered the parlor, and sat together on the sofa.  Minnie's eyes were fixed on Walter's face, as she listened to what he told her.  He explained in as few words as possible, that Ward had last night discovered that the indorsement of Macondray &amp; Co., on the note Walter had discounted in the bank, was a forgery.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward, he said, had happened to call at Macondray &amp; Co.'s, on some business, and was surprised when Mr. Otis began to explain to him why it was that he could not comply with his request the other day, and indorse that note he had sent them for indorsement.  Ward said he saw at once that something must be wrong, but did not let Mr. Otis observe this, but returned home, and, with Mr. Brown's assistance, hunted up the young man who took the note to Macondray &amp; Co., and was astonished when the fellow acknowledged that the old Captain himself and Mr. Otis had both refused to indorse the note, and that it was he himself who had written the indorsement.  The young fellow's only excuse for this act of villainy was that he wanted to borrow a twenty from Ward, and feared Macondray &amp; Co.'s refusal would put him in such bad humor, that he would not lend the money.  Walter now continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Of course the way would be for me to take this note up at once and destroy it; but where is the money to do it with?  Ward has not got it, Brown has not a dollar, and of course I have not."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Walter spoke, he sank back, pale and irresolute, and then added in a low voice:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Minnie, I could have faced anything but this danger of disgrace!  Can you see any way of escape, Minnie?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie, while Walter was speaking, was sitting erect; her eyes were all bright; she was, perhaps, pale, but there was a tinge of red in her cheeks.  As Walter addressed these words to her, she pushed back her clustering hair with both hands from her temples; then arose to her feet, and, turning towards him, she stood her full height, and, letting one hand rest on his shoulder, she said, evidently under great excitement, but perfectly calm, while a smile of confidence and courage lit up for a moment her beautiful face:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"See a way out of it, Walter?  I may not at this moment see the way; but, my brother, we both know in our hearts that our name is untarnished.  God knows it, too; and do not, Walter, for one moment, doubt that He, in His goodness and mercy, will show us the way out.  This false position you have fallen into, without its being your fault, undoubtedly gives us a great difficulty to overcome; but, Walter, we are not the children of affluence, ease and luxury.  No; from our earliest childhood we have had to battle for every inch of our way in the world.  Shall we now falter when the greatest difficulty of our lives is before us?  No, no!  We will not falter; we will do our best, and put our unwavering trust in that God who has never failed us!  It may be His holy will that our worldly goods be taken from us, perhaps, for our good, but do not doubt, my darling Walter, that, in His watchful care of us, if we do our part He will guard our name from the designs of wicked men!  Our poor father was struck down to a bed of painful sickness; but he was honored by all who knew him to the last, for his unsullied good name.  Our dear mother was once a stranger in the great city of New York; avoided and mistrusted on account of her religious faith; but God, from among those who did not believe as she believed, raised up to her as loving and true a protector as ever stood by wife.  When I myself was threatened, God raised up a kind and generous deliverer, from among the very men who sought my destruction.  No, my dear brother; we will ask of God nothing on earth but the continuance to us of our untarnished name, that with it we may serve Him with brighter honor.  And, though the struggle grow ever so dark around us, let us not dare to doubt the result, for to doubt would be ingratitude to God.  Yes, Walter, we are both Californians in heart and soul, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>593</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As Minnie spoke, Walter's expression of countenance entirely changed.  It no longer expressed doubt and fear, but resumed its wonted bold, confident look, and, grasping Minnie's hand, he kissed it, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Minnie, you have brought me to myself!  We have an unsullied name, and, with God's help, we will save it.  I no longer doubt, for, as you say, the same good and merciful Being who guarded our darling parents in all their life-long struggle, and saved you on that terrible night, will not now desert you in this danger; nor me either, I trust."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, dear, it is easy to speak brave words; but remember, we will have to follow them with brave actions; and on you all depends, not on me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Minnie spoke, she raised one hand to her forehead and let her eyes drop on the floor, as if in thought.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, have you any, the least, suspicion of Captain Ward's truth and honesty in this matter?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter started and looked surprised, as he said, in a halt annoyed tone: "Minnie dear, you, De Forest and Hilton have never liked Ward from the first, and that is the only reason why such thoughts come into your head.  Of course I have not the least doubt of him.  No; I have no more doubt of him than I have of myself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Walter dear, I do not like to annoy you by seeming to doubt any one you have such an undoubted confidence in; but recollect, this position of ours is no child's play.  We must look at every point in it carefully; and the fact that two such clear-sighted men as Hilton and De Forest both did doubt Ward's honesty of intention makes it no more than prudent of us to take their opinions into consideration.  And, Walter, I will now tell you that lately I find myself thinking of the strange circumstances of that robbery, and the way they got you to keep it a secret.  And, somehow, a frightful idea that they themselves were the robbers comes forcibly to my mind."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter, who had been walking up and down the room, now stopped short, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Minnie, you astonish me!  What on earth could be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>594</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, Walter, I know all that; but the more I think of it the more the conviction forces itself on me.  I cannot shake it off, and all I want of you, Walter, is that in all your intercourse with these men, for the next few days, you will keep my view of the matter before your eyes.  That will put you on your guard; for, if I am right, our position is a terrible one, for they will prevent you, if possible, from raising the money to take up that note.  If they are honest, we can, in some way, get the money; but if they are not, it will be mighty hard; but yet we will do it in some way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Minnie, I will do as you say; but it pains me to harbor a doubt of two such friends as I have always found Ward and Brown to be."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I do not want you, Walter, to harbor a doubt; but just to recollect that I <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, dear Minnie, I promise; so that is agreed on.  Now, the next consideration is, what shall be our first move to get the money?  All I have in this world is this furniture and those two Hilton notes, which draw no interest, and have so long to run yet, that here in California they would be counted as almost worthless; for four months are four years here with us in California."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Where are those notes, Walter?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, they are all right.  The robbers did not look on them as of any value, so they left them where they were in Ward's safe."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And is that where they are now?" said Minnie, looking alarmed.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, of course, Minnie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Well, Walter dear, go at once and possess yourself of the two notes, and if Ward undertakes to make excuses and put you off, I want you to promise me that nothing he does or says will prevent you getting the notes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Minnie, of course I will get the notes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, Walter; but promise me that you will bring them here this very evening, even if you had to quarrel with Ward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>595</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, Minnie, you are a great girl," said Walter, half laughing; "so I suppose I must promise you again, and I do; so now be satisfied."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I am satisfied, dear Walter; and now, while you are away, I will think and think, and tell you what comes into my head when you come back."</P>
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181.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>ARRIVAL OF JAMES DE FOREST--MINNIE'S GENEROSITY.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After Walter had left to get the notes from Ward, Minnie retired to her bed-room, and dropped on her knees near her bed.  Leaning forward, she covered her face with her hands, and then her whole inmost thoughts were with God.  Oh, yes; prepare, Minnie, for another trial for you is at hand that will test your power of will and your self-control to the utmost, and bring an ache of sympathy to your heart that it never felt before.  For ten minutes Minnie remained without a perceptible movement.  Then, suddenly, she starts to her feet, her hands clasped together, her head bent forward, in a listening attitude; for she has heard a step on the front porch that has made her heart leap to her throat so as to almost choke her.  She is now pale as death, as she heard her name pronounced by a manly, firm voice, saying to Jane, who opened the door:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is Miss Minnie Wagner at home?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Yes; her heart had told her truly it was he.  She could not move.  The door opened, and Jane said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Miss Minnie; a gentleman, who gives his name as Mr. De Forest, is in the sitting-room to see you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie made no answer, but as the girl left she again dropped on her knees, and again for a moment rested her face in her hands, while her frame trembled and shrank together, as if enduring or struggling against some inward pain.  Then relief seemed to come, and, drawing a long breath, she wiped away with her handkerchief the cold perspiration from her forehead, and, rising to her feet, said, half-aloud:  "There, I can go through it now."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Without even a glance at her mirror, she walks into the sitting-room.  James heard her step, and, his face beaming with smiles and joyous excitement, advanced to meet her.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, James, I am so glad to see you," she said, taking his outstretched hand.  "How are you?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"I am first-rate, Minnie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He stopped, he started a little, and, looking into her face while he still retained her had in his, he added:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But, dear Minnie, you do not look well, and your hand is so cold.  Are you sick, or what is the matter, Minnie?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My health is perfectly good, James, and I am only a little out of sorts this morning; but don't mind that.  When did you get here?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>James, now feeling half-alarmed, he could not tell why exactly, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I got here, Minnie, about two hours ago, and, as fast as I could, put myself in a fit rig, found this cottage of yours and came to see you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that was so good of you, James, to come so soon."</P>
181.sgm:<P>De Forest looked puzzled, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Minnie; it was not good of me, for I could not stay away if I tried ever so hard."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here Minnie tried to laugh, but her laugh was a failure, and evidently forced, and did not sound the least like her natural sweet, musical laugh.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Have you seen Walter, James?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No," said De Forest; "I have not, Minnie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>De Forest's manner now grew serious in spite of himself, and, turning towards Minnie, he looked her full in the face, endeavoring, if possible, to read its meaning, while he asked two or three common-place questions, such as how she liked living in San Francisco, and if she had made many new acquaintances in the city.  Minnie answered all his questions nicely, and fully, but De Forest saw that her manner had a quiet, subdued sadness about it, and when she spoke his name, he thought she somehow seemed to linger on it, with a peculiar, sweet intonation.  He could no longer hold out.  He stood up, and walked over and took a chair close to hers; then said, in a voice of deep feeling:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie, something is the matter with you.  Can you tell me what it is?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie did not speak; she seemed to be making a desperate effort for command over herself.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Minnie, speak!  In mercy tell me!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie recovered her quiet manner, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"James, I cannot if I would, deceive you.  Walter and I have a serious trouble to overcome, which I cannot disclose just now to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>598</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>590</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Not to explain to me!  Minnie, who have loved you as a child, a girl and a woman, with unwavering fidelity!  If some cloud, Minnie, has fallen on your path, will you not allow me to stand by your side and share it with you?  I care not how heavy or how dark it is, if I am sharing it with you, and perhaps making it lighter to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While De Forest spoke, Minnie's eyes, full of the saddest light, were on his face, and, with a look and tone of earnest entreaty, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, James, I cannot accede to your request, for to do so would lower myself in my own estimation, and if I did that, I would not be the girl that James De Forest loved in his boyhood and his manhood.  No, James, I will die before I let myself do one act that in my own judgment would make me less worthy of the love you have offered to shield my path through life with.  Even if I am forced to turn that love away, I will never be unworthy of it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Forced to turn it away!  Oh, my God, Minnie, what can all this mean?  I came here to claim you for my bride.  I have had Walter's consent long ago, and when I parted with you last, you gave me to understand in your own sweet way that you loved me.  Oh, Minnie, have I done anything to forfeit that love, which is life itself to me?  Oh, yes, and more than life a thousand times; because if you discard me, every day of the future of this life is intolerably dark to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie preserved her calm, quiet demeanor, but looked intensely miserable, as she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Done anything, James, to forfeit my love!  No, James; you have done nothing to forfeit it, and it grieves me to pain you, as I am now obliged to do.  Your name and your honor are untarnished, and you are entitled to a partner through life with as fair a name as your own."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie stopped speaking, seemingly overpowered with her feelings, and De Forest saw, as he looked in her face, an expression of almost agony, and that she was evidently struggling against some powerful emotion of her heart.  He was startled, and, hardly knowing how to act, he took her hand in his.  It was cold as ice, and in a low, trembling, sad voice, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie, is there not some strange infatuation about all this?  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>599</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>591</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie sat up erect, and, in a clear, steady voice, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"James, you are not acting selfishly; you are the same generous man to me to-day that you were long, long ago, as a boy, when we were children together; and I am grieved to be obliged to trespass on your generosity by asking you to do what I want you to do now."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Speak, Minnie, speak; what you say shall be law to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will ask you, James, to defer this subject for one month, leaving each of us perfectly free."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will so defer it, and leave you perfectly free, Minnie; will not that do?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, James; that is not the way I want it to be."  And Minnie was now paler than ever, and her lips quivered as she spoke.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Minnie, then it shall be as you say; one month, and you will accept my love, or fully explain to me why you cannot do so?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, James; that is the promise between us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I am satisfied, Minnie; and now I will return to Oregon by the steamer that leaves here early in the morning; for, oh, Minnie, I could not endure to stay here under these circumstances."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Forgive me, James, for the pain I give you; but you will yet understand me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are freely forgiven; and forgive me, dear Minnie, for the pain I gave you."  And, obeying a sudden impulse, De Forest snatched her up in his arms and kissed her, and whispered: "God bless you, and keep you safe, Minnie!"  And in a moment more James De Forest was hurrying down Kearny street towards the hotel.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As De Forest disappeared, Minnie went quickly to her room, closed the door, and, throwing herself into a chair, gave way to a fit of uncontrolled weeping.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh!" she exclaimed, while interrupted by choking sobs, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>600</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>592</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:"how miserable I have made him!  But what could I do?  If I had disclosed our trouble to him, it would be the same as asking him to help Walter out of it with his money, and that would kill poor Walter; for he could never brook the idea that his name should be saved from dishonor by the man to whom he was about to give his sister for a wife.  Oh, no; if James De Forest was only seeking to be a friend, and nothing more, I would have told him all, and be glad to have him assist us; but, as it was, I could not do that.  No; before ever I consent to be his bride, <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
181.sgm:<P>The night is closing in on this eventful day.  Jane has just rapped at Minnie's door, to tell her that tea is all ready to bring in.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Hold it back a little, Jane, until my brother comes back," Minnie answers; and then she wipes away all traces of her tears, as far as it was possible, and returns to the sitting-room.  She had not long to wait, for Walter's step was on the porch just as she had thrown herself on the sofa.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, dear Walter," she exclaims, "did you get the notes?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Minnie, I did; but I fear I hurt the feelings of both our friends, Ward and Brown; and if it had not been for the promise I made you, I certainly should not have insisted on getting the notes to-night."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, then, they <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Minnie, you should not be so suspicious of friends."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, did you do as I asked you to do while you were talking to these men?  Did you keep my suspicions in your thoughts?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Minnie; and I did not notice anything to be suspicious about.  The only thing you were right in was in regard to the notes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, how was it about the notes?  Tell me every word that passed about the notes, dear Walter."</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>593</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>594</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, this conduct of these men is only to be accounted for on my theory, that Ward and Brown are leagued against us for some purpose."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But Minnie, what possible purpose can they have in view?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I cannot exactly say now; but, Walter, you cannot be too much on your guard; for, recollect there is more than life at stake, and you see that, so far, I was correct, for I told you that they would make difficulties about surrendering those notes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Minnie, I confess I am puzzled, and I acknowledge that things do look as if you must be right.  Yet I cannot bring myself fully to believe so, but it puts me much more on my guard."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That is all I want, dear Walter.  Let us now take our tea, for it has been ready a long time; and after tea I have something to tell you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Minnie spoke, she took Walter's arm, and they went into the dining-room and sat down, and talked cheerfully while they disposed of their evening meal.  Minnie's manner was not what you would call excited, but was such as a person has, who is hard pressed with business, and who eats and sleeps as a matter of duty, to enable him to physically endure what he is called on to go through.  This evening she seemed to sit higher and more erect than Walter had ever seen her.  Her voice was as sweet as ever, but it was bold and decisive in its intonation.  Walter remarked all this, and said to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; she has been planning some decisive action for to-morrow; I know her manner so well.  I suppose she will tell me after supper."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Tea over, they retired to the little sitting-room.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Come, Walter," Minnie said, "and sit down near me on the sofa, and let me rest my head on your shoulder, while I tell you what I want to tell you."</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>595</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear sister Minnie, come and sit just as you say, and tell me all you want to tell me, for you have had an excited day of it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Walter spoke, he took his seat on the sofa, and Minnie sat close to him, holding the arm next to her with both her hands, and laying her head against his shoulder, her eyes looked downwards as she said, in a soft, low tone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"James De Forest was here; did you know it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, no, Minnie; is it possible; and where is he gone?  Why did he not wait to see me?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie did not change her position, but said, in a yet lower voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"He is going back again to Oregon in the morning, and will not be here again before he leaves."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Not be here again, Minnie?  And why so, for mercy sake?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie, for a moment, was silent, and Walter felt her struggling to overcome some emotion; then, in the same low voice, and yet in the same position, but that Walter felt her hands grasp his arm yet closer, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, James said he had your consent to talk to me of his views of the future, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Minnie, darling, he had my full consent; and he told me he had a half-sort of an understanding with you that he was to propose matters to you in relation to his and your future on his visit to us this May.  Was that your understanding?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, that was our understanding, Walter dear," said Minnie, in the same subdued voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And has he left without doing so, Minnie?" said Walter, in an angry tone, evidently mistaking the cause of Minnie's dejected manner.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, dear Walter; he begged and implored of me to share with him all he had in the world, and was terribly miserable when I had to turn him away."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The last words were spoken so low that Walter could only just hear them, and Minnie trembled with agitation.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Had to turn him away?  Minnie, you astonish me, for I thought he was just the sort of man you would be sure to admire, and value, and he has been our friend from childhood, you know."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, dear Walter; so I do, but with this danger hanging over our good name, how could I consent to listen to him until that danger was past?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Walter at once threw his arm around his sister's waist, and, stooping, kissed her forehead, saying in a low voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, I understand darling Minnie, your view of your duty under the circumstances, and I suppose you could give him no explanation of your refusal to listen to him, and that he went off considering himself rejected for good.  Oh, darling sister, how sorry I am for you both!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am sorry for poor James, Walter; but he was so generous that he said he would come for a final answer in one month."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, then he will come back for your answer in a month.  How noble of him!  What reason did you give him for not explaining to him what your difficulty was?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I told him I could give him none, and he forebore to ask me further."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear Minnie, he is indeed generous and truly noble; and God grant that we may be able when he comes back to explain all to his full satisfaction."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then, dear Walter, you approve of all I did, and think I could not have done otherwise? for I have kept thinking and thinking of poor James.  He looked so sorrowful and hurt, when I told him it was impossible for me to explain, and it gives me comfort to have you think I could not have acted in any other way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, dear Minnie; you could not have acted differently, no matter what the consequences were.  I understand your views fully, Minnie, and it is my own.  If James De Forest was to come forward to-morrow and take up that note, and in that way destroy all evidence against me, a lingering doubt might remain in his mind of my truth, even against his own will; and that would be intolerable to both of us.  No, when my darling Minnie consents to change her name, all shall know that the one she lays aside is as bright and untarnished as the one she accepts in its place."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie now sits up, and, wiping away tears that had forced themselves on her cheek, she turned to her brother, and, pushing back his clustering brown hair from his forehead, kissed it, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Walter, I feel so much better since I have had this understanding with you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Minnie, this is a terrible time of trial for you; but you must try and bear up and be the brave little woman you always <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>605</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>597</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter dear, a woman was not given physical strength to battle and fight in the world and overcome great physical difficulties, as men can; but our dear mother always taught me that the woman's place was to stand close to the father, husband, or brother, in all dangers, and inspire them with moral courage and confidence in God, to the utmost of her ability; and that God had gifted her with peculiar power to enable her to fulfill this, her destiny; and that a woman who shrank from this duty, or failed in this, her part, was just no woman at all.  So, dear Walter, if I sometimes have been of some use to you, when you were beset by difficulties, I deserve no credit for it; for I but did my simple duty, the neglect of which would have been criminal."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, how clearly I see that our dear mother was right, Minnie; and yet there are foolish men, and foolish women, too, who would, if they were permitted, drag women away from this holy and `better part' she has been assigned to, and in their pride and folly would rush the whole sex into the field of party politics, with all its bitter dissensions, often corrupting and degrading to the strongest men, whose duty compels them not to flinch from the necessary contest, be it ever so fierce, rough, or distasteful to them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I trust, dear Walter, the number of such misguided persons of either sex is very small, and may long continue so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I heartily join with you in that wish, dear sister; and now, to go back to our own immediate business, I was just reminding you that it was your time of trial; and I want you to prepare for a disagreeable scene sure to come before you to-morrow."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah!" said Minnie a little startled, sitting up and looking into Walter's face:  "What is it, dear Walter?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, dear Minnie, not to keep you in suspense, Captain Ward to-day intimated to me that he was a suitor for your hand.  I at once told him that in that matter you were your own mistress.  `Then,' said he, `you have no objection to my speaking to Miss Minnie herself?'  I said, `None in the world.'  So he will undoubtedly see you on the subject to-morrow."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Walter, the man cannot have common sense to make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>606</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>598</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, dear Minnie, you will have to give him an answer he cannot misunderstand; and that will end it, of course."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Walter, I am glad you told me, because I will prepare myself, and I will try not to wound his feelings more than I can help."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Minnie proposed to Walter that he and she should go together and see Father Maginnis, and disclose to him, as a friend, their exact position in regard to this note, and tell him of the security they could give to raise the two thousand dollars.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And," said Minnie, "he will know we are telling him the truth, and perhaps he will find some one who has the money who will be willing to lend it to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>After a moment's reflection, Walter agreed to the proposition, and the more they discussed it, the more hopes they had of its success.  So the brother and sister separated that evening; if not in happy spirits, yet hopeful, and were both soon resting in sweet, refreshing sleep, which they so much needed after the excitement of the day, and yet more to bring physical strength for the more terrible struggle of to-morrow.  But let no one fear that our little heroine will falter, let the trials impending be ever so great; for she is of the true type of our California pioneer women, of whom we are proud to think; for they are the glory of California's early history as an American State.</P>
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181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>A NOTE FROM CAPTAIN WARD--"A BOAT AHOY!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter and Minnie arose early in the morning following their consultation in regard to the note, as related in the last chapter, and Walter started out at daybreak to see De Forest, before he left for home.  He was only just in time to have a shake-hands, and to exchange good wishes, as the steamer shoved off.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Tell Minnie," said De Forest, in a whisper, "I will be here on the appointed day, if she does not call me sooner, through you, Walter."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, all right, James.  God bless you and bring you back safe!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>And now the steamer was dashing out towards the Golden Gate.  After they had passed out into the open sea, while De Forest was walking the quarter-deck, lost in his thoughts of Minnie, a sailor came up to him, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Excuse me, sir; is your name De Forest?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; what do you want with me?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, nothing, sir; but a gentleman gave me this letter and told me to give it to you before the steamer should leave the wharf; but I forgot it, sir."</P>
181.sgm:<P>James took the letter, tore it open, and read in astonishment as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>FRIEND DE FOREST:--I know you are mortified at my having won, in the contest between us for the hand of a lovely girl, and I write this to assure you that I have no ill-will towards you, and, as you are an old friend of my wife, that is to be, I would be very glad if you would stay over just two days, and favor us with your company, on the occasion of the interesting ceremony which is to unite Miss Minnie Wagner and myself in bliss for life.  If Minnie was near me while I write, I know she would join with me in this request.  Hoping you will remain and favor us, I subscribe myself</P>
181.sgm:<P>Your obedient servant.</P>
181.sgm:<P>JOHN WARD.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>As De Forest finished reading this note, he flung it on the deck and stamped on it, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are a lying villain!  What you write is false!  Yes; as false as Satan is himself!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then he threw himself on the gunwale of the steamer, with his head resting against the main rigging, while over and over he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Of course it is false!  Of course there is not a word of truth in it!  No; it is just written to annoy and worry me; but I don't mind it in the least, for I <HI REND="italics">know</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Then he turned to look where the note yet lay on the deck, saying, as he reached for it:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Let me see what the vile wretch does say; I almost forget already."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then he read it over carefully twice, and, while doing so, turned pale, and again red.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I do not doubt Minnie.  No; I cannot doubt her; but I fear some infernal plot against her; something that she has some knowledge of, but could not tell me without violating somebody's confidence.  Oh, why did I not stay in San Francisco?  Yet the villain expected me to get this note before the steamer left; so he does not fear my presence there.  Oh, can or could there be any truth in it?  Great Heavens! it is impossible!  No, no; poor Minnie is the victim of some infernal plot!  Oh, why am I not back in San Francisco?  I will question the fellow who handed me the note; he may be in with this villain, Ward.  I must get it all out of him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>De Forest now put the letter in his pocket, and went to the Captain's office.  The Captain invited him in, and, after some conversation, the Captain sent for the sailor who had handed the note to De Forest.  The sailor appeared, and looked frightened.  The Captain, showing him the letter he had given De Forest, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I want to know the exact truth about this letter.  Where did you get it? who gave it to you? and what did the person say when he gave it?  Nothing but the truth will save you from trouble; so out with it!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain, I do not know the man who gave me the letter; but he paid me five dollars to hand it to this gentleman, and told me not to give it until we were outside the heads, but to tell the gentleman that I had forgotten to give it to him, as I was told to do, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>609</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"No, no," said De Forest; "keep the five dollars; I am satisfied with your story, as you now tell it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So the sailor was dismissed, and De Forest, thanking the Captain, left to think over the matter under this new light.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah!" said he, as he paced the quarter-deck, "I now see the fellow did not expect or wish me to stay in San Francisco.  Oh, it must be that there is some infernal plot against Minnie; for, as to her every marrying that fellow, that is out of the question; she would die first; I have not a shadow of a doubt about that.  Oh, I must get back in some way and somehow!  Oh, God will save her!  But my heart aches.  I must get back.  Oh, how can I do it?  Yes, I will see the Captain; for I cannot endure this terrible uncertainty."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So De Forest had another interview with the Captain of the steamer, which resulted in the Captain's agreeing to put him on board the first craft they met bound for San Francisco.  Early the next morning they fell in with a vessel bound for San Francisco.  She was the brig May Day, Marshal, master.  De Forest was soon on board of her, and was politely received by both the Captain and his wife, whom he found to be a very agreeable lady.  De Forest still continued in great anxiety of mind, but felt better satisfied, now that his face was turned towards Minnie, who, it appeared to him, was in some great trouble, contending against some terrible wicked plot of Ward's.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh!" he would exclaim as he reflected on it, "when I saw her in such an agony of mind that night before I left, why did I come away?  Oh, I fear I was selfish.  Poor Minnie!  Poor Minnie! can you ever forgive me?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then sometimes he would fall into deep thought, and Ward's terrible, wolfish eyes would gleam before him as plainly as he ever saw them.  And then he would fancy he heard Minnie scream, and her cry would seem to come over the dark waters to him, calling for help, just as he heard her the night he saved her from Wild.  Then he would leap to his feet and gaze all over the waters around him, so fearfully lonesome, and listen and listen, as if in fact he expected to hear Minnie's wild call for help to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>610</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, why did I leave!  Oh, why did I leave!" he constantly repeated, as he tried to overcome the increasing alarm that seemed to gather around his heart, in spite of himself.  So passed the first, second and third days on board the May Day.  Night closed in, and De Forest was in a feverish excitement.  He tried to argue with himself of the absurdity of his fears and feelings; but he could not command calmness of thought or mind.  He lay down in his berth to sleep, but his eyes and ears were nervously sensitive, and, if he but dozed, a frightful vision of Ward with Minnie in his power came with such vividness before him, that he would start up, sitting erect in his berth, covered with cold perspiration, repeating as he wiped it away:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Minnie!  Poor Minnie! why did I leave you? why did I leave you?  Can you ever forgive me?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then he would lean his head over the side of his berth, and, peering with his eyes wide open through the darkness up the cabin hatchway, he would listen and listen, though his common sense told him he could hear nothing of her, who now so mysteriously haunted his imagination.  As the first ray of the morning light appeared, De Forest left his berth, and now as he walked the quarter deck, he was yet feverish and almost wild with excitement.  There was a dense fog on the sea, so that it was impossible to see any object twenty rods from the vessel.  He suddenly stopped in his walk, dropped his head to a listening attitude, and, laying his hand on the arm of the Captain, who happened to be passing, he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Hark! Captain.  Did you hear nothing?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain stopped, and listened also; but could hear nothing but the dashing of the waves around the brig</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What do you think you heard?" asked the Captain.  "Not breakers, surely; for, by my reckoning--and I know my reckoning is all right--I am far out at sea, safe from all such dangers."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no, Captain; not breakers; but I thought I heard a loud, terrible cry, as if of some one calling for help; and," continued De Forest, lowering his voice, "it seemed to me as if a woman's voice was there."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, it must be imagination, Mr. De Forest; you do not look well.  You slept badly, for I heard you groan two or three times, and my wife says you cried out loudly in your sleep.  You had better take something to steady your nerves, Mr. De Forest.  Suppose we have a glass of brandy?  I have some that is very nice."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank you, Captain, I am all right; I suppose it was a fancy; yet, strange, I heard it very plainly."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Mr. De Forest, we cannot see any distance through this fog; but, as soon as ever it rises, we will take a good look all around; for, of course, many a poor fellow has been starved to death in an open boat before now."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The breakfast bell rang, and De Forest followed the Captain to the table, swallowed two cups of coffee, one after the other, while scarcely eating anything, and then returned to the deck, which now seemed to have a sort of fascination for him.  Again he suddenly stops from his walk, and, throwing himself into the same listening attitude as before, he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My God!  I heard it again!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What was it like?" said the Captain.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, it seemed like a woman's cry for help.  I am sure I heard it; I cannot be mistaken."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Mr. De Forest, my ears are good sea-ears, and I heard nothing.  However, the fog is clearing away; so we will soon see."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The fog now raised, and the whole expanse of the sea was visible; but nothing appeared in sight.</P>
181.sgm:<P>De Forest still looked with intense excitement in all directions, and to satisfy him, more than from any lingering doubt that De Forest might be right, the Captain ordered a man up in the rigging with a glass in hand, telling him to take a careful look around the whole distance in sight.  De Forest watched the sailor, as he slowly passed the glass around the horizon, as though his own life depended on the result.  At length the sailor cried out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"A boat ahoy!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"A boat?" exclaimed the Captain and De Forest, in one breath.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; a boat with a red signal out, but nothing to be seen stirring.  Aye, yes; something now moves in the bow of the boat."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>De Forest became as pale as death, as the sailor spoke, and, without saying a word, he turned his eyes on the Captain.  The Captain understood him, and instantly called to the look-out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Hold the boat in view until I get the brig in the right course to overhaul her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, aye, sir," came back from the look-out.  In five minutes more the May Day was bearing down on the boat, now plainly in sight to all, and all saw a figure, like that of a man or boy, jumping up and down in the boat as if frantic with joy, and then a wild cry is heard by every one on the May Day.  De Forest leans over the the side of the brig, his eyes fixed on the boat, his arms outstretched, unconscious of everything around him, saying all the time, he knew not why: "Poor Minnie! poor Minnie! why did I leave you?  Oh, why did I leave you?"</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>A VISIT TO FATHER MAGINNIS--CAPTAIN WARD'S PROPOSAL.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As soon as Walter returned from seeing De Forest off in the Oregon steamer, Minnie and he ate their breakfast, and then started arm-in-arm to see Father Maginnis.  They found him as usual busily engaged about the asylum.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, well," said he, "what is it that brings you both here this morning, when you know how my time is taken up?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The brother and sister did not mind this sort of reception, as they now understood the good man perfectly.  They knew he was rough in manners, but kind in heart to overflowing.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Can you give us half an hour of your time, Father?" said Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Half an hour; tut, tut!  What do you want of so much?  But go on, and I will stay, if I can, to hear you out; only be as quick as possible."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Walter gave him a history of the robbery and the forged note, and of his present position.  Father Maginnis kept his eyes on Walter the whole time he was speaking, as if he wanted to read every expression on his face.  As Walter finished, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, you are very simple.  If your story is true, and I believe it is, these fellows Ward and Brown have your lost gold; and if this note is a forgery, they have fixed the whole thing up to get more money out of you, or get some hold on you for some purpose."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Father, I find it hard to think so badly of these men as that!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Tut, tut!  There are bad men in the world, as well as good.  Ward and Brown are the men who took your money, as sure as you are sitting there; and they are after something now, so look out for them; and, if I am right, they will try and get this note out of the bank before you can pay it.  Then they will have a power over you that might give you great trouble."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Father, you surprise me, and the more so because sister Minnie here takes your view of the matter."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter then explained that he had the Hilton notes, and all their new furniture, to secure the payment of the two thousand dollars, if he could find some one who had it to lend.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Walter, I will ask John Sullivan to let you have the money, and I think he will do it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just then the bell rang, and Father Maginnis went to the door himself.  It was some fifteen minutes before he reappeared.  As he entered, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The person whom I have just let in is an old sea Captain of the name of Fitzgerald.  He is a good man, and is rich, and has not much to do with his money but to live on it.  He often lends me money when I want it for the asylum, so I have just asked him to lend you the two thousand dollars, and he says he will if I say so.  I will bring him in, Walter, and let you speak to him yourself, as to how you propose to secure the money."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Father; I will do so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So Father Maginnis called his visitor in, and introduced him to Walter and Minnie.  He was a fine-looking old man, and seemed robust in health, and had a very benevolent countenance.  Walter showed the Hilton notes, explained all about them, and gave Edmund Allen as reference as to Hilton's standing, and stated besides that he would store their piano at a warehouse, and give the warehouse receipt to the Captain as additional security.  The Captain said he would not take the young lady's piano; but Father Maginnis said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Captain, you must, or I will not let you lend the money."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So it was all settled, and Captain Fitzgerald agreed to call that afternoon at Allen Wheeler &amp; Co.'s and make the necessary inquiry of them as to Hilton's standing; and if all was satisfactory, he promised to take up the note at the bank the first thing in the morning, and Walter gave him a written order on the bank for the note.  Thanking Father Maginnis and the Captain both, they were about to leave, when Father Maginnis said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Come back here, Minnie, and sing some of those Irish songs you have for the Captain."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Minnie, she was not much in singing humor; but, with a bright smile, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Certainly, if the Captain would like to hear them."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Of course, Miss Minnie, I would like to hear a good Irish song at any time."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So the Father led the way into the Sisters' Orphan Asylum parlor, where there was a handsome piano.  The very fact that Minnie's heart was sad and anxious filled her fine voice now with the deepest melody.  At the Captain's request, she sang some of Moore's beautiful songs, and others that the Captain called to her mind, concluding with the "Wearing of the Green."  The Captain seemed enraptured, and often had much to do to conceal his emotion.  When Minnie had concluded, he took her hand to wish her good-bye, and, as he did so, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Miss Minnie, have you any Irish blood in your family?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, Captain; my mother was born in Ireland, and I learned all those songs from her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, Miss Minnie, you do not know what a strange feeling came over me while you were singing; for, when I was young, I had a dear sister who used to sing those very songs, and I could almost believe that you were she while you sat at the piano."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The good Captain could not command his voice further, so he turned away.  Father Maginnis, seeing the state of things, broke in with:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, well; I have lost too much time; so be off with you all."  And, turning to Walter, he continued: "Be sure and not forget to send the warehouse receipt to the Captain; and, Walter, look out for those men I told you about."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Walter was about to answer, he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Be off, I tell you; I have something else to do besides talking."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain now stepped up, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Wagner, you need not trouble yourself about the piano or warehouse receipt.  I will not touch it, no matter what Father Maginnis here says.  I know my own business, and I will not touch the warehouse receipt."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter was about to remonstrate, but the Captain waved his hand, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no; I would even lend you the money without those notes, if that was necessary.  Do not touch your sister's piano, or I will not lend the money."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, well," said Father Maginnis, "let him have his own way.  There is no managing an Irishman anyway.  They are all as obstinate as mules.  So be off!"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Captain Fitzgerald laughed, and said in a half-whisper to Minnie: "Father Maginnis was never obstinate himself, we all know, Miss Minnie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Minnie again reached her hand to the Captain, saying with the sweetest smile:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Will you not come and see us, Captain?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, my dear young lady.  It will make me most happy to do so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Be off, be off!" shouted Father Maginnis.  And so they parted.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As the brother and sister walked home, they were silent for a while.  Then Minnie looked up into Walter's face, and he saw tears on her cheek, as she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What a good, kind friend God has sent us!  I feel so much encouraged, Walter, and so much more happy, now that we are almost sure of the payment of the note."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear Minnie; I understand your feelings perfectly, God is surely with us in our trouble."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As soon as they reached home, they found dinner ready, and enjoyed it with good appetites, feeling well satisfied with their morning's work.  After dinner, Walter left to keep an appointment with John A. McGlynn, who was yet his warm friend, and was actively at work for him in efforts to get him once more in business.  As he was leaving, he kissed Minnie, and said: "I am sorry, darling Minnie, that you are to be troubled with Ward; but I think he will try to act the gentleman and not press his suit after he finds it disagreeable to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie remained sitting for a moment after Walter walked out; but, suddenly, a lonesome, almost frightened feeling came upon her, and she started up to recall Walter, and ask him not to go until after Ward had paid his announced visit; but, on reaching the street, Walter was nowhere to be seen.  So, returning, she went into the kitchen and told Jane that she expected a visitor she did not like that afternoon, and that while he was in the sitting-room, not to be far out of the way.  Jane promised, so Minnie tried to compose herself as well as she could to go through the ordeal before her.</P>
181.sgm:<P>She had not long to wait.  The bell rang, and Jane went to the door, and showed Captain Ward into the sitting-room.  Up to this time Minnie had been shrinking and almost trembling in anticipation of the visit; but, now that she was called on to speak and to act, her true womanhood of character seemed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>617</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Miss Minnie, I am so glad to see you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>His voice was low and soft, and Minnie thought it trembled a little.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Captain," was her only reply, and they both sat down.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward tried to enter into conversation on indifferent subjects, and Minnie did all she could to help him to do so, in a half-hope of leading him away from his intention as announced to Walter.  After a few minutes of this sort of effort, Ward turned to Minnie, and suddenly said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Miss Minnie, I came to see you to-day, with your brother's consent, to speak to you on a subject that is life or death to me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He paused, and breathed hard.  Minnie promptly said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain Ward, I would be sorry to believe that the result of any conversation with me would be of much consequence to you one way or the other."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then Miss Minnie, you are totally mistaken, for I will be perfectly candid with you, and tell you what I had hoped you already knew; that I love you with the fiercest passion.  You have a power over me no other woman ever had.  Yes, Miss Minnie; our fates are linked together.  Yes," said he, moving close to her, while his large, dark eyes fell on hers; "I feel it in my whole system; my fate is your fate.  Yes, Miss Minnie; I loved you before I saw you.  I now love you as no mortal man ever loved woman before.  There is a mystery in it I do not pretend to understand."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie's eyes never flinched under his terrible gaze, and he continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, Miss Minnie; our fates are linked together.  You cannot live and reject me; I cannot live and be rejected by you.  I have property in other lands, and gold and diamonds, all to place at your feet.  I will swear to be your slave for life.  I will humble myself to the dust, if you but reach out your hand and save me from the fate that is sure to befall me if you reject me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie now, in a proud, almost commanding, voice, and with her eyes yet fixed on his with unfaltering steadiness, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain Ward, save such extravagant talk for those who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>618</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Ward's eyes now sank away from hers, as in a low voice he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I implore you not to scorn my love.  It is wild and passionate; it is deep and fervent; and what I say is true, that my fate is linked to your life--yes, the lives of us both, as I see it, hangs on your answer."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain Ward, I again beg of you to desist from addressing me in that sort of language, or in any language on this subject.  I have always tried to show you by my manner that I had no feeling orinterest in common with you, and you should have spared me the necessity of being so plain with you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, you were always cold; but the colder you were the fiercer I became in my love.  Yes; while you were cold, I was on fire.  I will ask you now, Miss Minnie, in a respectful manner, the direct question, and beware how you answer me: Will you be my wife, Miss Minnie Wagner?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Never, while a sense of understanding, or life, remains."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And that is your unalterable answer?" said Ward, rising to his feet, while the tone of his voice changed from the humble, suing lover's to haughty boldness.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir; my answer now, and forever more."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Then I have to tell you, haughty Miss Minnie, that within two days you will change your haughty answer, or see your brother ignominiously condemned to State Prison for forgery."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah," said Minnie, "then you are his accuser; I always thought so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, I am not; but Brown and another friend of mine desire me to say to you that, unless you marry me within the next two days, they will bring the matter before the authorities, and then there will be no escape for him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Leave my presence, instantly, shameless villain!" said Minnie, rising to her feet, and confronting Ward with as bold a mien as though armed with physical strength and weapons that would command his obedience.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Ward looked at her a moment, as if uncertain what to do, then said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I give you one more chance to relent, and then, if you do not do so, it is not love that will pursue you any more."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And as he said this, he stepped forward so as to bring his face close to her, while his eyes gleamed like a wolf's about to spring on its prey; his lips shrank back from his large, white teeth, while he hissed into her ear the last part of the sentence:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No; it is not love any more.  You have scorned that; but hate--the deadliest that ever prompted to blood or vengeance-- <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie, undaunted, looked more than her full height as she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Coward, to threaten a woman!  God is my shield, and I fear you not!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, we will see; we will see.  I tell you that you will crouch at my feet, and beg to be my wife, before you are two days older.  Good-night, proud girl; we will soon meet again, and then--and <HI REND="italics">then, my time</HI>
181.sgm:<P>As he said the last words, he rushed from the house.  Minnie walked after him with a firm step, she knew not why, exactly, and locked the door.  As she returned, she met Jane coming into the sitting-room with a frightened look.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Jane," she said, "come and sit near me.  I am trembling all over.  That terrible man, or fiend, or whatever he is, has frightened me out of my senses!  Oh! if you had seen him, Jane, when I rejected his offer.  Oh, he looked like anything but a man!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Minnie spoke, she held Jane tightly by the arm, and, as they sat together, rested her head on her shoulder.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Say some prayers, Miss Minnie, and you will get over it.  Sure, that never fails me, and a poor girl, the likes of me, has often nothing else to comfort her, and God always somehow takes care of her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now both were silent, and then Minnie's lips moved in obedience to Jane's suggestion, and tears stole down her cheeks.  As Jane had predicted, courage had come back to Minnie, and, as she sat up and wiped her eyes, she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Did you hear what passed, Jane?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Only the last part of it, Miss.  As I came into the little entry I heard you say, so brave like, that you defied him, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>620</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie shuddered, as she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Jane; you are a brave girl."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now they both grew calm, and Jane resumed her work, preparing the evening meal, and Minnie busied herself in doing up some housework she had left undone in her hurry in the morning.  She was startled, while thus engaged, by hearing a heavy, excited step on the front porch; the door flew open, and Walter stood before her, with an expression of excitement in his face she had never seen there in her life before.  It was an expression of the fiercest and most uncontrolled anger.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>WALTER AND WARD--CAUGHT IN A TRAP.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Walter left Minnie to go to see John McGlynn, he was calmer in his mind than he had been at any time since the discovery of the matter of the forgery.  He found John in accordance with the appointment, and had a long, friendly talk with him.  He found him so willing to take an interest in his welfare that he at length said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I have made up my mind, Mr. McGlynn, to disclose to you the real cause of my present position, as I believe you will have faith in my truth, and, perhaps, you can the better help me when you know all; and then I begin to doubt men I have heretofore believed in without a shadow of a doubt.  I have believed in them against my sister's judgment, and against the judgment of other friends.  I would like to have your views in a confidential way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Walter, you must be your own judge.  Two heads are better, the saying is, than one, even if one is a sheep's head."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Walter gave John a full account of the robbery, the note indorsed by forgery and all, and about Father Maginnis getting Captain Fitzgerald to agree to take up the note.  John said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Does that fellow, Ward, want your sister, Walter?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; he is furiously attached to her, and got my consent to ask her to-day.  I gave it, as I thought it the best way of ending the matter."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What view does your sister take of Ward?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, she cannot endure the sight of him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, said John, "I think the whole thing is very clear.  This fellow Ward and his friend Brown are two confidence villains, working into each other's hands.  I have seen them both, and there is nothing honest about either of them; they are both from Sydney, and the chances are that they are escaped convicts.  They have all your money, and they now want your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>622</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"My God!" exclaimed Walter, "if you are right, Mr. McGlynn, I never should have given my consent to Ward's making a proposal to Minnie!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, as to that, perhaps it was best that she should herself give him his dismissal."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Walter, "I will at once go and throw myself in the way of those fellows, and see what I can make out of them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, do," said John; "and be sure and keep cool.  It is your only chance of discovering their plots and plans.  I will call to-morrow afternoon at your house, if you wish, and we will compare notes, and may be we can trap the rascals in some way yet.  Anyway, I will try and help you work the case up; and I am glad you told me all, for I think I see daylight for you not far ahead."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Walter walked along Montgomery street, intending to go to the Oriental Hotel, he reflected on all the incidents of the robbery, and of his whole connection with Ward, from the first day he met him in Downieville, and light seemed to dawn on many heretofore unaccountable circumstances, and the conviction forced itself on his mind that McGlynn was right in his theory of the whole thing.  Just as he came to this conclusion, he looked up, and there stood Ward, directly in front of him, apparently waiting for his approach.  Walter's brow knit into almost a frown in spite of himself, as he acknowledged Ward's salute.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Wagner," said Ward, "I would like to see you in my room.  Have you any objection to coming with me?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"None," said Walter, in a more formal manner than he had ever used when speaking to Ward before.  And, without uttering further words, they walked down Bush street, and were soon in Ward's handsome room, at the Oriental Hotel.  Ward threw himself into an easy chair, and pointed out a seat to Walter, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Please be seated, for I have an important communication to make to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter took the seat Ward indicated, without saying a word; but his eyes were fixed on Ward with almost sternness.  Ward avoided Walter's look, as he commenced:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Friend Walter, you may observe that I am a little excited; and, perhaps, you think it is because your sister has just scorned the love and devotion I laid at her feet; as, of course, she did this with your full knowledge that she was to do it, and, I suppose, your approval."</P>
181.sgm:<P>This sort of a way of opening the conversation was offensive to Walter, and seemed to arouse him; for he now sat erect, and looked full in Ward's face, with an angry expression, as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Go on, sir."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward, still averting his look from him, continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I was saying, Wagner, that you might suppose it was because of this contemptuous treatment I was excited; but you are mistaken, if you think so.  I am excited entirely on your account, as you shall hear; though, by your manner and look, I see very little friendship for me on your part this morning; but never mind, I will act the friend to you, if you will let me, in this great difficulty you are in."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I do not understand, Captain, what you are driving at.  Please be explicit, and you will find me no less so."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, you do not understand me, Mr. Walter Wagner," said Ward, rising from his seat, and commencing to pace up and down the room, while his voice grew bitter and contemptuous in its tone.  "You do not understand, sir, that in the eyes of the law you are a forger, sir, and that if I--yes, I--do not reach out my hand to help you, you will very soon wear the uniform of San Quentin.  Do you understand that, Mr. Walter Wagner?  Say `Yes' or `No!'"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter was held silent by a rushing tide of passion that almost blinded him, and Ward went on:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that is a new light to you, is it?  Well, I have to tell you plainly that Brown, and Jack Lawson, the first mate of my vessel, both know of your unfortunate position, and they both declare that in the State Prison you shall go, or perhaps to the merciful protection of the Vigilance Committee, with Sam Brannan at its head, if your sister Minnie does not marry me tommorrow--yes, to-morrow."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And now as Ward said this, he seemed to lose all control of himself, and ran on, in a sort of wild fury, never once looking towards Walter, whose eyes he could not summon courage to meet, and Walter yet listened in silent fury as Ward continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; and as I have gone so far, I will say to you that I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>624</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Just as these last words came from Ward's lips, his eye caught the sight of Walter reaching for a bowie-knife that hung in a belt on the wall, and his ear caught a sound coming from Walter like the stifled yell of a man in a fit.  The truth flashed on him in an instant, and, without a look towards Walter, he made one bound for the door, and cleared it, just as the knife in Walter's hand passed close to his back, and was broken in the panel of the door, as it lay back against the wall.  In two bounds more Ward cleared the long flight of stairs, with Walter just one bound behind him, with the broken knife yet in his hand.  As quick as a flash, Ward brought the outside door to, and turned the key in the lock.  The lock was a large-sized one, and at first resisted Walter's terrible wrench, but yielded to his second furious effort, and he leaped on the street in front of the hotel, but Ward was nowhere in sight.  As Walter looked all around, he said, half-aloud: "Oh, you miserable fiend, you shall not escape me in this way!  I will go home and see that my dear, darling Minnie is all safe; then I will get my own revolver and bowie-knife, and this wretch shall not live another day to repeat this vile language in regard to my angel sister!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>So on he almost ran, until he reached his cottage, when he threw open the door and stood before Minnie, almost insane with the passion of revenge.  Minnie stood before him, calm; but she turned deadly pale as she observed the fearful excitement of Walter's look and manner.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank God, you are safe, my darling!"  he exclaimed, as he threw his arms around her.  Kissing her forehead and then both her cheeks, he continued:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, you are safe; and you shall remain so, Minnie darling; so do not be afraid, and look so pale.  Oh, he shall pay for what he said!  Yes; dared to say to me of you, Minnie!  I will not tell you, Minnie, what he said.  No, no; for the wretch is to pay for it with his life!  Yes, Minnie, with his life!  This very night shall shut down on his dead body, and this is the hand!"  Here he raised his right arm and shook it with a fierce gesture, while the other was yet around Minnie's waist.  "Yes, Minnie; there is the arm that shall avenge the insult!  I care not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>625</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As he spoke, he withdrew his arm from Minnie, and, walking to where his belt, with knife and revolver, hung, he took them down and buckled them on his waist.</P>
181.sgm:<P>While Walter was addressing Minnie in this wild manner, she held his arm grasped tightly with both hands.  She still held it as he armed himself, while trembling in every limb.  Now, with quivering lips, she exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, my darling brother, what can all this mean?  Do not, I beseech you, Walter, harbor such terrible feelings of revenge.  If this man has made a vile threat, do not let that turn you into a revengeful murderer.  Let him go; we will both in the future avoid him, and God will save us from his threats, as sure as there is light at noonday."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Minnie, do not talk to me in that way.  You are often right; but you cannot, as a woman, understand this case.  Oh, no, Minnie; oh, no, he has dared to insult my darling pet."  And here again he threw his arm around her, and, looking down on her with the tenderest, compassionate love, as he continued: "Yes; he has insulted my darling, sweet sister, that all her life has stood close to me in every trouble, whether as a boy at school or a man in the worid, always sacrificing herself for me!  But I will avenge the insult dearly, as it is my duty to do!  Yes, Minnie; my duty!"  And now Walter's words were slow and distinct, and in a low tone, he continued: "I will strike this wretch down on sight, like the wolf that he is.  I will then cut his false, vile heart from his body, and throw it to some dog to devour, and then I will kill the brute that holds a thing so vile!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie was now terribly alarmed for the state of Walter's mind, and, summoning all the powers of her noble womanhood to aid her in the struggle she saw before her, she turned to her brother, and standing erect, laid a hand on each of his shoulders, as she exclaimed in a voice of the sweetest entreaty, and yet of decision and firmness:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, my darling brother, calm yourself; calm yourself, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>626</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Walter shrank from his sister's look, and, turning away, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Your destruction, Minnie!  Your destruction!  Oh, Minnie! how can you speak so?  What do I care for myself in comparison to my love for you?  Your safety and your honor have been threatened, Minnie; and reproach me not that, in defiance of all the world, I go to strike down the man who has dared to make the threat!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Minnie! this day had tested the strength of every nerve in her system, and every faculty of her mind, and well had they stood it up to this point.  As Walter now turned away with words of half-reproach, her arms suddenly started out to him; but she could not move, and an expression of almost agony appeared on her face as she struggled for words.  Walter marked the silence, and, turning, raised his eyes; then his arms were outstretched, too, and, for an instant of time, each, with quivering lips, gazed in the other's face; then, a wild cry from poor Minnie, and they are locked in each other's arms.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, darling brother," Minnie exclaimed, in a voice choked with sobbing and hysterical weeping, "you will not leave your poor Minnie to do this terrible act which God forbids!  No, no; you will not leave her all alone here in California to be pointed at in shame, and with no power to defend her darling Walter's good name.  Father gave me to you; mother sent me to you!  Oh, Walter, will you blacken our honored name, and leave your darling Minnie, that could not live without your love, to wither and die in shame?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>While Walter struggled for a voice to answer, Minnie's form became heavy in his arms; her hands dropped from around his neck, her head fell back, and she was still, lifeless, and as white as if dead.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Great Heavens!" he exclaimed, "I have killed her!  Oh, merciful God, forgive me, forgive me! and, oh, save my sister, and I will with humility bear the insults of the whole world!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>And, as he spoke and prayed, he laid her on the sofa, and called loudly for Jane.  Rushing in, Jane loosened Minnie's dress, and did all that was possible to restore her, while Walter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>627</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"All is right, Mr. Wagner," said the girl; "she is coming to nicely."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Walter poured out his thanks to the Giver of all good, and renewed the promises he made while in the agony of his fright.  He seated himself near Minnie, took her hand in his, and, kissing it, retained it.  Minnie opened her eyes, and sadly smiled as she looked at her brother; then she shut them again, and remained some minutes perfectly quiet.  Again she opened her eyes and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I fear I frightened you, poor Walter.  I recollect now what happened.  What a weak thing I was to give way; but it came on me so suddenly."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter's whole manner was changed, as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie, it was not half so strange as the fit I had on me; but it is all over, thank God!  I see now clearly what a blind, furious passion I had been plunged into by the sudden discovery of that man's villainy, and of his terrible language about you; but, as always, you saved me, Minnie.  Yes; saved us both.  I believe I could now meet that wretch of a man with perfect composure."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie, without speaking, reached out her arm, and, slipping it gently around her brother's neck, drew him down to her, and fondly kissed him.  Now, as Minnie remained cuddled up on the sofa, Walter retained his seat near her, and they talked over their position, and Walter repeated his interview with John McGlynn, which very much pleased Minnie.  He then told, in a calm, quiet way, all that had passed with Ward, and they both wondered what Ward could have meant by saying that he would soon have another hold over Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said Walter, "I think it is but an idle boast.  However, be careful, Minnie, and do not go out alone until we get the fellow completely exposed."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I think you are right, Walter; for, you know, he threatened me in much the same manner before he saw you.  But, with good John McGlynn's help, I think we will be able to expose him.  And do you know, Walter, that Isaac Hilton and I always believed that it was Ward who instigated that man to try to murder James De Forest?"  And Minnie shuddered as she spoke.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Walter remained in thought for some minutes, and then said: "I can now believe anything of him, and the more I look back the more light seems to come to me.  I recollect, too, that one day I strolled into Ward's room, and was surprised at seeing, written across a paper folded like a bill of items, the name `John Ward Cameron Lusk.'  I recollect the name well, on account of `Lusk' being a part of it.  Ward saw that I read the indorsement, and, taking up the paper, whatever it was, said:  `I was trying my pen with all the odd names I could string together, and the last I thought of, as you see, is the name of De Forest's enemy.  He ought to be in port soon, and arrangements are made to nab him the moment his vessel arrives.'  Then he went to the stove, and threw the paper into the fire.  So, at the time, I thought nothing more about it; but now it is a circumstance to strengthen Hilton's and your suspicions, and I will draw McGlynn's attention to it to-morrow."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jane now appeared, with a cup of tea for Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, thank you, Jane," said Minnie, as she sat up and took the cup; "that is just what I was wishing for."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I believe I will take one also, Jane," said Walter, "just to keep Miss Minnie company."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jane looked pleased, and brought Walter his cup.  As they sipped their tea, they enjoyed each other's company until Jane announced the evening meal.  As they left the tea-table, a gentleman and lady called to see about their daughter's taking music lessons.  Minnie, with pleasure, accepted the new pupil, and was very much pleased at the call, as it helped to calm herself and Walter, and restore them to their usual current of thought and feeling.  The visitors seemed very much attracted by the brother and sister, and extended their visit until bedtime.  After the visitors left, the brother and sister, as was their habit, joined in their devotions; and on that night, instead of the usual kiss at parting, Walter threw his arms around his sister and kissed her over and over.  Without a word being spoken on either side, except the low-murmured "God bless you, darling!" from each to the other, they parted for the night.  There was an undefined fear lingering around Minnie's heart, most likely from Ward's threats.  After turning from side to side for half an hour, she arose from her bed, lit her lamp, and went to Jane's room.  She asked her to come and sleep with her, and Jane at once complied.  Minnie's nerves grew quiet, and she <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>629</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie started up in her sleep, and called aloud:  "Mother! father! kiss me! bless me!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jane now started up, saying:  "Miss Minnie, you must have had a terrible dream!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, Jane, I had.  Please join me in some prayers," and Minnie was trembling in every limb, "that I may have courage and be a woman; for surely something terrible is coming upon me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Miss, do not let dreams frighten you so.  You know we must not mind dreams.  They are all foolishness."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no, Jane; I do not mind dreams, but yet I am frightened; and surely there is no harm in praying to God to strengthen me, if harm <HI REND="italics">does</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no; of course not, Miss Minnie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And, as always, her prayers seemed answered, and courage and confidence were restored to her.  For the remainder of the night, she slept soundly, and arose in the morning strengthened and refreshed.  Walter, too, felt composed, and willing to meet any trouble that might come with cool courage.  This was soon tested.  As the banking hour approached, he thought it best to go and see Captain Fitzgerald, to make sure that he would take up the note the moment the bank opened.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Good-bye, dear Minnie," said he; "I will be back in a little while.  I am only going to Captain Fitzgerald's and will come directly back.  If that villain, Ward, should call on any pretence, do not let him in, or show yourself, and do not leave the house until I come."</P>
181.sgm:<P>On receiving Minnie's assent, Walter took his way to Stockton street, where Captain Fitzgerald lived.  He had not gone more than a block when he observed two men following him.  He put back his hand to see if his revolver was all right in place, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>630</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Good-morning, Mr. Wagner," said one of the men.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter returned his salutation, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What is new, boys?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, nothing, Mr. Wagner; but we have an unpleasant duty to perform."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And what is that?" said Walter, a little startled.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then the fellow acting as spokesman explained that they had a warrant for his arrest on the charge of forgery, and, on Walter's asking on whose complaint the warrant was issued, he was told on that of Macondray &amp; Co.  He then said he would go with them, but that he wished first to go back to his own house to inform his sister.  This they positively refused to let him do.  Then he said he wanted them to take him first to the law office of Hall McAllister.  This they also refused, saying their instructions were positive to take him to the County Prison direct, and that from there he could send for any one he wanted to see.  They then asked him for his revolver, which he unbuckled from his waist and handed over.  They continued along Stockton street west, until they reached the corner of Broadway.  Then, just as they were apparently turning towards the prison, a boy stepped up to them, and, addressing the policemen, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The Chief wants you to bring your prisoner to the blue cottage on Telegraph Hill, where he can stay until he gets his bail bonds."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, aye," said the policemen.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then turning to Walter, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I suppose the Chief wants to spare you from going to the common jail until you get your bonds.  That is all."</P>
181.sgm:<P>There was a confused idea in Walter's mind that something was wrong.  So he stopped short, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I demand to see your warrant before I stir another foot, and I have some doubts as to your being policemen."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, you doubt us, do you?  Well, here is the warrant, all in due form.  And look here," said the policeman, as he threw open his coat and displayed the city police star on his breast.  "Do you now doubt, Mr. Wagner?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter read the warrant for his arrest over, and could see nothing wrong about it.  So, without further words, he resumed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>631</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Wagner, I am sorry for your trouble, I assure you; but Captain Ward will be here soon, and will, he tells me, propose a way of settling this disagreeable business."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter now comprehended his position.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I see I am the victim of Ward's and your villainous treachery, which may end in my death and that of my sister; but, in that event, I have the satisfaction of knowing that the world is not large enough for you and your cowardly villains to hide yourselves in; for my countrymen will pursue you by land and sea, until they avenge our fates."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Wagner, the time to talk that stuff has passed.  So I advise you to take things coolly.  I have nothing whatever to say to you.  My duty is to keep you safe until Captain Ward comes, and to do that I will have to request you tolet these men put those irons on," pointing, as he spoke, to a pair of shackles and handcuffs lying on the floor.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Villain, you dare not!" said Walter, as he threw himself into an attitude of defence, with his back to the wall.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In an instant, half a dozen revovers were aimed at his body.  Brown gave a chuckling laugh, as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do you want to die right now, Wagner, or wait to have a talk with Ward?  You can do just as you prefer, my dear sir.  Those irons will go on, or you die now, sure."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"If I were alone in the world, I would die right here in a fight with you and your Sydney hounds, but--"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You have no need to finish the sentence, Wagner, I know what you would say, and your conclusion is a correct one; you wish to live to save your sister, if possible.  Boys, put the irons on."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Two of the ruffians laid their revolvers aside, took up the irons and fastened them on Walter's legs and wrists.  While this was doing, Walter made no resistance whatever, not even speaking; but seemed lost in thought.  Brown then turned to his men and said:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Put up your revolvers, boys."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And all obeyed, and resumed their former crouching positions around the room.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Wagner," said Brown, "if you were not such a powerfully-built man, I would have spared you this indignity; but Ward is now in a game that will not allow us to run the least risk; so you must excuse us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Miserable, cowardly, treacherous wretch, do not again dare to address me a word!  I would rather be here in ignominious irons, in the power of murderers and robbers like yourself and Ward, than to be either of you and free, a thousand, a thousand times!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that is all a matter of taste, Wagner; but I advise you to keep hard names to yourself, and act more patiently."  And again Brown laughed.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter turned away, and seated himself near a window.  He remained gazing out, in anxious and terribly mournful thoughts of Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! what if they seize her in the house!" he kept repeating to himself.  "They might kill the hired girl, and no one would hear Minnie's screams."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And now he recollected Minnie's warning words: "Never to lose confidence in God."  So with his whole heart he implored God for her safety, asking nothing for himself.  Now he sees a hack winding slowly up the hill, in the direction of the blue cottages.  His heart leaps with convulsive terror, he knows not why.  Brown has observed thehack also, and, turning to Walter, says:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Wagner, prepare yourself for a surprise; for that hack, if I am not much mistaken, contains your sister!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter leaped to his feet, and, raising his shackled arms above his head, struck them with all his force against the cottage wall, exclaiming:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Great, merciful God! guard and save her!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Not a hair of her head shall be harmed," said Brown, "if you and she comply with an honorable proposition Captain Ward will make you this evening on board the Blue Bell; for now we have to be off there."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter groaned, as he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I told you, villain, not to speak to me!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>His eyes remained riveted on the carriage.  It now neared the rickety cottage steps.  Brown threw open the door, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Here, Wagner, take a seat by your sister; there is not a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>633</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As Walter hobbled down, thus supported, his heart sank within him, for he hears a suppressed cry of agony from the carriage.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Darling Minnie," he exclaims; "how did the villains deceive you, so as to get you into their power?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, dear Walter, did you not send for me?  Did you not write this?" handing Walter a note as she spoke.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Minnie, it is a vile, wicked forgery!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"In with you!" cries Brown, laughing.  "You can talk over that matter with your sister in the carriage."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In Walter was helped, or thrust; Brown and two of his gang taking seats in the hack also.  Down the hill they now dashed, until they reached the beach, where Meiggs' wharf was afterwards built; then along the shore, westward, they drive, until they come to a little cove, where a boat and four men were found, evidently waiting for them.  Minnie and Walter were hurried into the boat, and, just as they were ready to shove off, Brown said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Wagner, it is my duty to tell you, that if you or your sister cry out while we are passing either ship or boat, I will order you gagged in the roughtest way.  And if I should fail in that, I will not hesitate to have you shot dead in your seats, for we are engaged in no child's play now, you understand?"  Then he continued to the driver of the carriage:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Tom, return that carriage to Orrick Johnson's stable, on Kearny street, and answer no questions as to where you have been; and then send Johnny Lucky to the Captain, and let him tell the Captain that all worked to a charm--the warrant for arrest, and his note to the lady; and that we have gone on board all right."  To the crew of the boat he then gave the order:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Shove off, my lads, and give way!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>As the boat shot out into the bay, Minnie sat close to Walter, with one arm around his waist, and the other crossing his breast, her hand resting on his opposite shoulder.  While thus fondly holding him, she looked up into his face, her eyes burning bright with the light of faith and hope, as she whispered:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Courage! darling; courage!  God is near us in His almighty power, and will not fail us if we trust Him with unfaltering faith."</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>MISS SCOTT AND LIZZIE--THE STRUGGLE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Let us be lookers-on for an hour or so in Miss Scott's highly respectable boarding-house.  Miss Scott, a most estimable maiden lady, with the true American spirit of enterprise, came, late in life, to San Francisco, in the eventful days of which we write, and opened a fashionable boarding-house on Montgomery street.  She was good-hearted and kind in her disposition, made many friends in her new home, and was more than usually successful in the sort of enterprise she undertook.</P>
181.sgm:<P>We now stand in the entry of her nicely-furnished house, the evening of the day before Walter and Minnie were kidnaped, as related in the last chapter.  It is candle light, and after the evening meal Miss Scott, as it should appear, was just closing a conversation with a nice-looking young English girl.  It is hard to judge with certainty, as we look at this young person, whether she is a young married lady, or an unmarried young lady; but a lady judge would say she was the former.  She is in fine health, and has a very interesting expression on her handsome face.  Miss Scott says:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am sorry, Miss Lawson, to press the matter, because I never had a boarder I liked better than yourself; but three of my lady boarders have drawn my attention to the matter, and I can no longer be blind to the fact that Captain Ward should fulfill his promise to you, and have the marriage ceremony openly acknowledged by him, or that you should find a new boarding-house.  You say he is coming here to-morrow.  Tell him what I say, and he will undoubtedly come to a conclusion.  Tell him if there is one day's more delay about it, that I will send for your father and brothers, and request them to find you a new boarding-house; for I am too poor, Miss Lawson, to be able to run any risk about the character of my boarding-house."  With trembling, quivering lips, and in a very low voice, Miss Lawson answers:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, Miss Scott, I will do as you say; but, dear Miss Scott, do not let them talk badly of me; it almost kills me to hear such things as you have to-day told me of.  To-morrow I will either show you the certificate of marriage, or I will quietly change my boarding-house."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And Lizzie, raising her handkerchief to her eyes, and sobbing audibly, entered her room.  Lizzie Lawson had always the best of everything in Miss Scott's boarding-house; she had a nice parlor, or sitting-room, of her own, besides a snug bed-room, both on the first floor of the house; all of which was regularly paid for in advance by her father.  She now passed through her little sitting-room into her bed-room, and, throwing herself into a chair, seemed for awhile in an agony of grief.  Then she drops into deep thought, and seems to grow more calm.  After awhile, she arose, bathed her face, and took pains to arrange her toilet properly.  She has made up her mind not to join the other lady boarders for that evening, in the parlor, as she had always done heretofore.  So she threw herself into a chair, and took a book to read.  But this was a failure, for she could not understand one word she read.  So, laying her book down, she is lost in thought.  Now, she starts; for she hears the front door bell ring.  In a moment more a knock comes on her sitting-room door.  She knows the knock well, and flies to the door to admit her father.  He is dressed in his best, as he always is when he comes to see Lizzie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Father," she says, in a deep, soft voice, as she draws him in by the hand she has caught in both of hers.  She closes the door, and then flings both arms around his neck and whispers, as she kisses his hard, brown cheek over and over:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Darling, darling father!  I am glad you came."  The old seaman's arms clasped her close, as he says, in a low, but half alarmed voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is anything the matter with my little Lizzie?  Has any one dared to harm my little queen?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, dear father; but I am so glad you came, I don't know exactly why, but I am so glad."  And, as they are both seated on the sofa, she kisses him and again clasps his great, huge frame, in her delicate, white arms, while she lets her head rest on his bosom.  Lizzie, though always kind and affectionate to her father when they met, had never been so demonstrative before, and Jack had always considered his daughter so far above himself in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>636</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Tell me, Birdie," he said, "who has frightened my little craft so that it runs into this rough harbor for shelter?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, dear father," she said, smiling sadly; "the harbor might be rough to a craft that did not know it and had no pilot to steer it in, but here is the pilot of your little craft."  And, as she spoke, she laid her hand on her heart, "and to-night I but obey the helm in that pilot's hands when I run into this harbor for shelter; for oh, dear father, something tells me that to-morrow will be for me a storm from daylight until dark, that is to decide my fate in this world!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Strange, Birdie, why you should have such thoughts; but one thing is sure, what decides your fate decides mine also.  But tell me, Birdie," and now a dark, uneasy look came in Jack's face as he spoke, "why do you fear, and what do you fear?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Lizzie did not at once answer; but, wiping the moisture from her forehead with her handkerchief, she seemed trying to collect her thoughts.  Then she said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Does the Blue Bell sail to-morrow, father?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, of course Birdie; but surely the Captain has told you, and--"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"He has told me nothing, father, and has not been to see me for ten days."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ha!" said Jack, rising to his feet, with his clenched right hand lifted, as if to strike, "does he dare to think that he can slight--but no, no, he cannot; for, Birdie, I would tear him limb from limb, if he did, and he must know that I would."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Dear father, be calm.  Sit by me, and advise me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Birdie, I will; and let me ask you now, has he never asked you to be his wife?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Asked me, father!" exclaimed Lizzie, in sudden excitement.  "Oh, yes; over and over again.  And when I consented, I wanted to tell you and the boys, but he would not let me, and made me promise not to tell you or the boys; and then he was so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>637</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As Lizzie ceased to speak, she covered her face with both of her hands, and gave way to a fit of uncontrolled weeping.  Jack clasped her in his arms, exclaiming:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Birdie, darling, do not cry in that way.  It is all my fault.  The boys warned me, but I would not believe them."  Then in a husky, low voice, he added: "The parson shall come tomorrow, and the ceremony shall be performed, or the sharks will fight for his body in the bay.  This I swear to you, my poor Birdie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, father, I do not want that, for--for he may yet do right, as I got a note from him to-day, saying he would be here to see me to-morrow morning."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! then he wrote to you that he would be here to-morrow, did he, Birdie?  That looks better, and as you say, he may do right yet.  Yes, yes; it must be that he intends to bring the parson with him, for he dare not take the Blue Bell out of the Heads, if you do not walk the quarter-deck his wife, and queen of our ship.  So, have courage, Birdie; all may yet be right, and the boys and I will see you through."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Lizzie now grew more calm, and Jack walked up and down the little parlor, as if in thought of all he had heard; and sometimes there was a terrible, fierce expression on his countenance.  At length he stopped, and, turning to Lizzie, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I tell you, Birdie, I will not let the boys know this, until after you see the Captain, to-morrow, and then, if all goes right, we will never tell them."  Then Jack leaned his head down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>638</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well, dear father, to-morrow will decide all; I did love him once, but now some way I have a terrible fear of him, but I may be wrong, and he may be all right yet; but to-morrow will decide, as I said before.  So come, dear father, in the afternoon, and bring the boys with you, for I so long to see them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All right, Birdie, I will, I will; and now you must have courage, and when you are talking to the Captain you must be bold and plain with him; and recollect that you have a father and brothers who will stand by you to the last.  And here," continued Jack, taking from his belt a beautiful ivory-handled dagger, sheathed in a red morocco case, mounted with gold, "I bought this for you to wear when you were installed queen of our ship, but you may as well take it now, for it is not out of place with any lady here in a new country."  As Lizzie eagerly reached for the dagger, her hand slightly trembled, and her cheek grew a little pale.  She laid it on the table, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, father; it is beautiful."  Then, seeing that Jack was preparing to leave, she said: "Have you to go so soon, father?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Birdie; I am going on board the Blue Bell to-night, for I do not want the Captain to know I was here."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, good-night, darling father," said Lizzie, in a low, half-faltering voice, as she laid her hand on his shoulder, "and--and--well, I just wanted to say, that if anything did happen, you know, to either of us, so that--so that we never did happen to meet again, you know," and now both her arms were around the old man's neck, and her lips were close to his ear, as she went on: "I want to tell you that you must never think that I did not love and thank you, every day of my life, for all your hard work for me to make me happy, and that with my last breath I will bless and pray for you.  I could not let you go, darling father, to-night, without telling you this; but do not mind, for all may be well yet, you know."  The old man tried to control his voice to speak, but something choked it down, and he could not utter a word.  "Do not fear for me, darling father, and feel so badly," Lizzie murmured, while floods of tears ran down her cheeks.  "Your Birdie will be brave; so do not fear.  This horrid fear that haunts me to-night will pass away, and, when you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>639</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Not a word could Jack utter; one long, silent embrace, and he was making his way towards the city front, where the boat of the Blue Bell was awaiting him.  As Lizzie now stood alone, near the table, with the dagger drawn from its sheath in her hands, there was a strange, bitter smile in her face, as she touched her finger to its sharp, needle-like point.  Then, with a start, as if some horrid thought had crossed her mind, she returned it to its case, and hurriedly thrust it into the drawer of her work-table.  Then she walked up and down the room with folded arms, in deep thought, saying to herself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; he may only be trying me, and all may go right yet, as father says.  Oh! merciful God, grant it!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Poor Lizzie little knew that she prayed to be allowed to share a merciless pirate's life.  A fate a thousand and a thousand times worse than the worst of deaths.  As she continued to walk, she thought aloud:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will be calm, and give him no excuse.  I will coax, will beg; and if he but openly acknowledges me his wife, I will not care what comes then.  I am so glad that father came.  Now that he knows all, I feel so much better.  And I have wished him good-bye, too, if anything should happen.  Oh, yes; I feel so much better!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The night was now well advanced, and Lizzie, after her usual devotions, retired to her bed.  For long hours she slept a deep, heavy sleep, as one does whose mind has been overtaxed with some absorbing grief or trouble.  When she awoke, it was one of San Francisco's pleasantest days.  The sun shone brightly into her little bedroom and parlor.  A moment's thought recalled to her mind everything; the terrible struggle before her and all.  But now her true English courage was in her heart to face it, and, when she appeared at the breakfast table, she seemed to Miss Scott, and to all, just the same as usual.  After breakfast she returned to her room, and made herself busy in putting everything in the neatest order.  She then took uncommon care in making her toilet, evidently anxious to look her very best.  When all was completed, the hour for Ward's promised visit was at hand.  Sometimes her hands and feet were icy cold; sometimes they seemed all on fire.  She is resolved to be calm, and now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>640</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Captain, how do you do?  I am so glad you have come, for your friend, Miss Lawson, is expecting to see you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, she is, eh!  Well, I came to see her, because I am about to be absent from the city for awhile; so I wanted to say goodbye."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Miss Scott was about to open on him, and give him a little of her mind in regard to his treatment of Lizzie; but, on a second thought, she determined not to do so, but to leave him to the lady herself.  So she just said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You will find her in her own parlor, Captain."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Captain Ward stepped to the door, and knocked.  It was at once opened, and Miss Scott heard Lizzie's cordial reception of her visitor, while he seemed to treat her in a careless, cavalier manner.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will just go to my own room," said Miss Scott to herself; "and then I can hear all that passes between them, as the partition is only cotton cloth.  I know it is not right to listen in this way, but in this case I am excusable; for, God knows, all I want is to help this poor girl out of a terrible position, and I must know how that rascal treats her; for I am myself going to expose him to her father, if he does not do what is right, for she will not have the courage to do it, I am afraid."</P>
181.sgm:<P>If a good motive could excuse Miss Scott for eavesdropping, she undoubtedly had one, and was actuated by no other.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Lizzie, my girl, how do you get on these times?" said Ward, throwing himself into a rocking-chair.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, first-rate, Captain; except that I have been very lonesome at times.  I am always so, when you stop away so long, Captain."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, you flatter me, Lizzie.  But Lizzie, by Jove, you look first-rate.  Do you know that you have grown handsomer than ever?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am glad you think so, Captain; for you are the only one in the world I care to look handsome to."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"None of that soft solder, Lizzie; for I came to tell you that I am going away for awhile."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"To sea?" said Lizzie, anxiously.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, to sea; and for a good, long time, too, I rather think."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Do my father and brothers go with you?" said Lizzie, in a quick, excited voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; of course they do!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well, you will take me with you, too, because father told me you would ask me to go, and said I must go; and of course I will go."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no, Lizzie, my girl, of course you will do nothing of the sort.  Your old father knows nothing about it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why!  I told father that we were engaged to be married, and he was very glad, and said it was all right, and that he supposed you would have the ceremony performed the day we sailed; and he and the boys brought me some handsome wedding ornaments, and a beautiful dress, which I will show you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I do not care to see either dress or ornaments."  And, looking fiercely at the now trembling girl, he continued: "Did I not tell you never to tell your father or brothers anything that passed between you and me!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But they questioned me closely, and I hated to tell them what was false."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Nonsense!  You ought to be ashamed of yourself!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, forgive me, Captain!  I will not do it again.  But you will take me, your little, lovig wife, with you, Captain?"  She gave her voice all the coaxing sweetness, that was natural to it in happy moods, and laid her hand gently on his shoulder, as she went on: "And you will have the ceremony performed to-day or to-morrow?"  As she spoke, she trembled with emotion, and her voice was as low as a whisper.  Ward, with an impatient movement, shook her hand from his shoulder, as he said, in a rough voice he had never used to her before:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will do neither the one, nor the other.  Make up your mind to that, girl!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Captain, Miss Scott told me to-day that, unless you married me within two days, I must leave her house; and that would disgrace me!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"How nice she is getting here in California, all at once!  If Miss Scott does not want your money, there are plenty of boarding-houses that do."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Captain, you do not mean to leave me and go away, before you have the ceremony performed?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Nonsense, girl; don't put on airs, yourself.  You did not really think that I intended to marry you?  You cannot be such a fool as that!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Not marry me, Captain!" said Lizzie, looking astonished and frightened.  "Did you not swear to me, over and over, in the most solemn way, that we were as good as married in the eyes of God, who heard your vow of fidelity and truth to me.  And that the exact day the ceremony was performed was of no consequence; and that it should be performed some day, very soon!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Lizzie, you are really very amusing," said Ward, with a chuckling laugh.  "Of course I swore all manner of things to overcome your fanatical scruples; but what of that?  It is a way we men have, as you will find out when you have a little more experience."  And he laughed in a mocking sort of a way.  "No, Lizzie; the next chap you have to deal with you will have more experience."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Lizzie grew deadly pale, and, half-gasping for breath, she arose from her seat, and then threw herself back again, as she cried out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Captain!  Captain! do not talk to me in that way.  I know you do not mean what you are saying; but you will drive me mad if you talk so to me!  No, no, no!  You will not let me be disgraced!  I know you love me; you have sworn you did; so I know you will pity me, and not let me be disgraced here before them all!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>She now dropped her head forward, resting it between her hands on the center-table, and, in a terribly mournful, beseeching voice, went on:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I could tell you something! oh, I could tell you something! and, oh, I thought it would make you so happy!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward gave a half-frightened start, arose from his rockingchair, took another seat, and, with a struggle, composed himself, and now regarded Lizzie with a sort of a contemptuous, careless smile.  Oh, he comprehends the news the miserable girl wished to tell.  That strange, mysterious news, that, when whispered by trembling, agitated, but joyous lips, into the ear of the young husband, seems to awaken and arouse into active life every noble sentiment of his nature; and, though the news be joyous, yet with it comes an awe, as though a voice from on high had announced a mighty trust reposed in him, for which he will one day be held responsible.  Yes; to the worthy husband it is news that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>643</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:flings out his interest in life, in country, in everything around him, a whole generation beyond his own, and fills his heart with overflowing gratitude to God, and the most fervent love and tenderness for the partner who is the messenger and bearer of the glad tidings.  Yes; Lizzie's words of agony are comprehended by Ward; and even he, the murderer and blasphemer, hears in it <HI REND="italics">God's</HI>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that is it, is it?  I understand you now.  Well, I will send you a person who will arrange all that for you!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>And again he laughs, stands up and looks out the window, as though he had not much interest in what he was talking about.  Lizzie's breath seemed to choke her, as she now struggle for calmness to speak.  She threw herself back in her chair, her temples clasped tightly with both hands, her eyes wild and unsteady.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Merciful God!" she murmurs to herself, "help me!" as she drops on her knees for a last humble, touching appeal for mercy and compassion.  Her hands are clasped in supplication; her voice is full of wild, earnest entreaty, as she exclaims:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh!  Captain Ward, you do not mean, you cannot mean the wicked thing you hint at!  Oh! you cannot mean murder! and, oh, God! such a murder!  Oh! do not use such horrid language, or I will die at your feet!  You know, that in the eyes of <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<P>Ward, who continued to look out the window, while tapping the sash in a careless sort of a way, as if keeping time to his thoughts, now exclaimed, in a tone of impatience:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Pshaw!  Lizzie, you are acting and talking like a fool!  If you want to let out your relations to me, I do not care a fig.  I only spoke for your good, and I will now tell you the whole truth, to show the folly of expecting me to marry you.  I am going to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>644</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As these words fell on Lizzie's ear, a sudden and terrible change came like magic on her countenance.  The quiet, humble, beseeching expression vanished, and in its place came one of dark defiance and of the fiercest hate.  Her eyes were all fire; her cheeks were as pale as white marble; her lips were quivering and apart, showing her ivory teeth, set hard together.  In one instant she was on her feet; her motions now being that of a stealthy cat; she was at her full height; her bosom heaved, but yet she did not seem to breathe; with an impatient shake of her head she threw back the hair from her temples, and the whole mass now fell loose behind her shoulders; with one more soft, noiseless movement she opened the drawer of her work-table and grasped the dagger her father had given her the night before; and now came hissing through her teeth close to Ward's ear:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are a liar, villain, for to-morrow you will burn in hell!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>As quick as a flash Ward comprehended his danger, and his face was to Lizzie's just in time to ward off a blow from her up-lifted dagger.  When foiled, she stepped back, and, crouching as a panther might, to gather strength for a new onset, with a cry of despair and rage, she bounded on her destroyer, who, now pale with abject fear, seized a chair to defend himself.  She missed her blow, and, with the chair, he struck the dagger from her hand.  Then she flew at his throat with the fury and strength of insanity, which, for a moment, seemed to overpower Ward.  In the struggle, his neckkerchief, vest, shirt and all were torn away.  With a last terrible, maniac effort, she brought him staggering on one knee, and, with one arm around his neck, she tried to hold him down, while she reached out for the fallen dagger; but poor Lizzie's strength was now fast on the wane, and, with a desperate effort, Ward freed himself from her hold.  She sprang on him once more, but now Ward grasped her delicately formed neck, with both his hands, with a terrible iron grip.  His thumbs sank in on her throat; she chokes; her eyes start open with a dead stare; her jaw drops, blood spouts from her nose, and her arms fall powerless by her side.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Ward sees that she is vanquished, and, with all his might, he pitches her backwards from him, and, without looking to see the consequences, dashed out of the house.  As he hurried along Montgomery street, he tried to conceal from view his bloody, torn vest and shirt, while he muttered to himself:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There was a little more of that than I bargained for.  A little more and she would have spoiled my wedding, after all.  That is two escapes within two days.  If I escape one more struggle, nothing can hurt me.  The Devil is good to his own, they say.  Yes; one more escape, and Old Nick can put up his bottom dollar on me.  I must get old Jack and the boys on board at once, before they hear of this, or I might have trouble; but I do not fear them, anyway, I so completely own them."</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Lizzie was hurled backwards by Ward, she went against the center-table, which fell over, and with it she came heavily to the floor, striking her head with great force against the edge of the sofa, which cut a terrible gash in her temple.  As Ward rushed out, Miss Scott dashed in, and was horrified at the sight of Lizzie lying senseless and bleeding on the floor.  In answer to her loud cry for help, the hired girl and two lady boarders came running in.  Poor Lizzie was soon laid on the bed, and cared for with the kindest attention.  When first she came to her senses, she was wild and incoherent, but gradually became composed, and had a full sense of her misery.  She was suffering intensely from the bruises on her head and shoulders.  Miss Scott, to soothe the pain, bathed the injured places with laudanum, which seemed to give some relief; but a raging fever now set in, and Lizzie became perfectly wild.  Miss Scott grew alarmed, and left the room for a moment to send for medical aid.  As she did so, Lizzie leaped from the bed, seized the vial of laudanum, and swallowed its contents, and then lay back in her bed, as if in a faint.  When Miss Scott returned, she found her in a stupor, which, in an hour, ended in her death.</P>
181.sgm:<P>From the time Lizzie came to her senses, until the stupor overpowered her, she was earnestly praying for mercy and forgiveness.  She called for her book of common prayer; but, finding she could not read it, she kissed it and laid it near her.  The doctor Miss Scott had sent for gave a certificate that Lizzie Lawson died from an accidental over-dose of laudanum; and so it went to the public.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just as she expired, Johnny Lucky called, as he did every day, "to see," as he said, "if Miss Lizzie wanted anything."  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>646</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>In the afternoon they arrived.  Their grief was terrible to behold.  They kissed her cold lips, the wound on the temple, and the black marks of Ward's fingers on her neck, over and over, while sobbing as if their hearts would break.  This excessive grief looked the more terrible because it was rough, strong men that yielded to it.  The father and brothers now arose from their crouched position, near the bed upon which Lizzie was laid out, and retired with Miss Scott into the sitting-room, where she gave them a brief account of the last terrible scene between Lizzie and Ward.  The old man then said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Miss Scott, for all your good and kind ways to poor Lizzie; and I have one thing more to ask you.  The boys and I have to put to sea this afternoon or to-night, but I will leave five hundred dollars for you in Burgoyne &amp; Co.'s bank, and we want you to see that our poor Lizzie is nicely buried, and that she has a minister of her own religion at the funeral; and we want the grave nicely fixed up, you know, with a nice head-stone, with her name on it, all nice, like the best of them; for it is all I can do, anymore, for my poor little Birdie."  Then, turning to the boys, he said: "Let us go back, boys, and wish our poor Lizzie good-bye."</P>
181.sgm:<P>They go in, and again they passionately kiss her cold, dead face.  Now they kneel and hold each other's hands over the dead girl.  But, oh! let us shut the door and stop our ears, for their words, spoken in that terrible hour and position, are not words of prayer and submission.  Oh! no; in defiance of God's holy law, it is a frightful oath of vengeance they swear!</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>ANXIETY FOR WALTER AND MINNIE--ON THE TRACK.</P>
181.sgm:<P>As John McGlynn had agreed to do, he called at the appointed hour at Walter's cottage, and was surprised to find neither Walter nor his sister at home.  The girl said that Mr. Wagner had sent a hack for his sister in the forenoon, and that neither of them had come back; but that a boy soon after called, and told her that Mr. Wagner and his sister had gone to Sacramento, and would not be back for two days; and that she might shut up the house and go to her sister's until then.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I cannot understand their going off in that sort of way," said Jane; "but I suppose it's all right; people do such strange things here in California."</P>
181.sgm:<P>John went away with a strange feeling of doubt in his mind; so much so that he went to the Chief of Police, and told him of the matter, that officer said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, I will have the house closely watched; for, if there is anything wrong, the rascals will come at night to gut the house."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And so it was arranged.  For two mornings McGlynn called on the Chief, but he reported that all at the cottage remained undisturbed.  McGlynn now, somehow, felt himself growing excited over the mystery, and could think of little else.  He called on Father Maginnis, and was surprised to find him hardly less hardly less excited than he was himself.  The good Father exclaimed, when he heard all the girl Jane had related in regard to the brother and sister:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"What can all this mean?  Where can they have gone?  What makes it so very strange is that I am attending to a matter of business for Wagner, and I cannot understand his going off without seeing me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said McGlynn, "he told me in confidence about that note.  Was it taken up?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Yes; Captain Fitzgerald took it up, and the clerk at the bank told him that half an hour before a man called there, and wanted to pay the note; but the clerk would not give it without a written or personal order from Wagner."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That goes to show," said John, "that this Captain Ward, whom Wagner thought his friend, was the real enemy."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I told him so, and was sure of that; and Minnie, his sister, fully agreed with me," said the Father.</P>
181.sgm:<P>While McGlynn and Father Maginnis were thus comparing notes, Captain Fitzgerald made his appearance.  He came, he said, to ascertain if the Father had yet seen Wagner.  Now all three talked for some time over the mystery of the sudden disappearance of the brother and sister.  The more they talked and discussed it, the more they all grew excited.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why," said Captain Fitzgerald, "I dreamed of them all night; at one time Minnie was singig for me the song she sang the other day, at other times I thought she was my sister, and so I was disturbed all night.  The fancy that she was my sister must have come from the wonderful likeness between this Miss Wagner and my poor sister Ann.  Ever since I saw her I keep thinking of my sister.  Is it not strange?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Are they not relations of yours, Captain?" said John McGlynn.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why, no, Mr. McGlynn.  Why do you ask the question?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Because," said John, "their mother's name was Ann Fitzgerald."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ann Fitzgerald!" said the Captain, looking quite agitated.  "How do you know that, Mr. McGlynn?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I recollect when Walter was driving a team for us, when first he came to California, in '49, he told me all about his mother; and how she came from Ireland with a family of emigrants, and then what a hard fight she had to get on; and how his father defended her before he ever knew her; and how they got acquainted, and were married; and I know her name was Ann Fitzgerald.  He told me, too, how his little sister got the fifty dollars to enable him to come to California."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! can it be possible," said Captain Fitzgerald, now in great excitement, "that their mother is really my long lost sister?  And yet it must be; Minnie is so very like her."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You can depend," said Father Maginnis, "on what John tells you; for he knows every man's history in this city for at least a generation back."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Well," said John, "there is nothing strange in such a discovery, for such are occurring every day here in California."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And they report their mother alive and well?" said the Captain.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, Captain.  And, by the way, I have a letter of introduction Minnie brought me from her mother," said Father Maginnis, rising from his seat and taking the letter from his desk and handing it to the Captain.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh! merciful Providence! it is my sister's handwriting, surely."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Father Maginnis, "you can soon settle the question, if we ever find the dear children."</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was then agreed between McGlynn and Captain Fitzgerald that they should go together and work up the case to the best of their ability.  The first place they went to was the Oriental Hotel; and there they were surprised to learn that Captain Ward had paid up his bills, given up his room and left, as the clerk said, for Sacramento on the afternoon of the day Walter and Minnie had disappeared.  The clerk saw they looked excited, and asked them some questions.  They avoided decided answers.  The clerk said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"After the Captain left, the girl who makes up the rooms found something very strange stowed away under the bed."</P>
181.sgm:<P>McGlynn immediately asked what it was, and the clerk brought out of the baggage-room a package done up in a newspaper.  He opened it, and exhibited a shirt, vest and neckkerchief, all covered with blood; and the shirt was torn, and the vest had no buttons, being evidently pulled out.  Fitzgerald became very much excited, but John remained apparently cool, as he said to the clerk:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, there is a little mystery we are on the hunt about, so I will get the Chief of Police to call and see those articles; so please lay them away carefully."</P>
181.sgm:<P>They now proceeded to the office of the Chief of Police, and told him of the discovery of these clothes.  The Chief thought the business looked very serious, and advised perfect secrecy, and promised to put his best men on to work it up.  At the very outset, it was discovered by the detectives, on inquiry at the Custom House, that the British bark Blue Bell, Captain Ward, master, had cleared the day before Walter's disappearance, for the Sandwich Islands, and, on further inquiry, they found that the Blue <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>650</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>When evening came, McGlynn and a police officer took their stations on the wharf, to await the arrival of the Sacramento boat; for this was the day Walter should have returned, if the story was true that he had gone to Sacramento.  The Chief himself and Captain Fitzgerald went to the cottage.  They found Jane there in great agitation and alarm.  They told her they would remain until the boat was reported in, and then see her safe home if the brother and sister did not arrive.  While Captain Fitzgerald sat waiting in the cottage, he looked at everything with the greatest interest, as he was now almost sure the two absent ones were of his own blood.  He was soon relieved of the last lingering doubt in this respect, from his eyes resting on a prayer-book that lay on a side table.  He took it up, and, opening it, found, to his astonishment, his own name, written in his own handwriting, on the first blank page; and on the second was written as follows:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"MY BELOVED SON WALTER: I give you this prayer-book as you are going so far away from me, for it is far more precious than any I could buy with money.  It once belonged to my poor, darling brother, who was driven by persecution out of poor Ireland, and I suppose lost his life among strangers.  Always pray for him, darling son, as well as for your devotedly attached mother.<HSEP>ANN WAGNER."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The Captain could not restrain his emotion on reading this evidence of his sister's unchanged love.  He arose, went out on the porch, and walked up and down, lost in thoughts of long, long ago.  Soon McGlynn and the policemen came, and reported no arrival by the boat.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now the Chief took a careful survey of everything in the house.  It was evident that the occupants had suddenly and unexpectedly left, as the girl had all the time stated.  All Walter's and Minnie's clothes were there, as if in every day use; a hundred dollars in gold was found in Walter's trunk.  The Chief took down the girl's statement in writing, which included the scene of Ward's proposal to Minnie, and her rejection of him.  Jane cried bitterly all the time, exclaiming:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Poor Miss Minnie; oh! that villain has murdered her for not marrying him, as he said he would."</P>
181.sgm:<P>It was a dark and disagreeable night, and the most intense and fearful mystery seemed to pervade the whole cottage.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>651</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>On the morning of the fourth day, the papers reported the British bark Blue Bell lost.  She had, it would seem, left without a pilot sometime during the night of the day after she cleared at the Custom House, and had gone ashore outside the heads, was a total loss, and it was supposed all on board had perished.  It was believed there was no insurance.</P>
181.sgm:<P>When, late that day, John McGlynn and Captain Fitzgerald called at the office of the Chief of Police, to ascertain what progress had been made in unraveling the mystery, the Chief said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, yes; some progress.  I have discovered enough to convince me that the brother and sister were both kidnapped by this Captain Ward and taken on board the Blue Bell; and I fear there is little doubt but that they were both lost with the illfated bark.  I see no other solution of the mystery.  So far, I have kept the matter from the public, but there is no use in secrecy any longer; and, if nothing turns up to-day, I will report it all to the press, and see if outsiders can give us any information."</P>
181.sgm:<P>McGlynn and his friend turned away disheartened and downcast, with hardly a hope left for the safety of the young people in whom they had become so intensely interested.  As they walked slowly along Kearny street, too sad in thoughts to speak, they saw a police officer they knew to be at work on the case, hurrying toward them.  As he passed, them he said: "Come, come to the office of the Chief of Police; I have news, news!"  And on he darted, and they in hot pursuit after him.</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>THE PRISONERS--CAPTAIN WARD'S HORRID FATE.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now, my dear readers, let us return to Walter and poor Minnie, as we left them seated together in a boat rowed by six cut-throat looking villains, under the command of Brown.  Minnie's brave words of courage are not lost on Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, darling Minnie," he says, "if you were but safe out of their hands, what a Heaven it would be to me, even if my fate was to be thrown, with these manacles on my limbs, into the bay; but when I think of you in the power of that black-hearted villain, I confess I quail to the very inmost recesses of my heart!  And yet when I see you near me, Minnie, and looking and speaking so courageously, I too feel a confidence that God will, in some way, aid us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Walter, we have no power of our own to escape; I do not see, or try to see any."  Now Minnie sat up erect, and, raising one hand up, as if to emphasize her words, she continued: "No; I do not pretend to see a way, but I do not dare to doubt but that God will open some way and save us.  So, Walter, let us be what we pretend to be--Christians and Californians.  If it is God's holy will that we should this day go to Him, do not fear, my brother, that He will allow our honor to be sullied.  The reason I speak so much to you, Walter, of confidence and courage, is because I know that it is for me you fear."  Walter's eyes were on Minnie while she spoke, and her noble, courageous words and whole bearing filled him with admiration, and with confidence in the result of the contest before them, whatever it might be.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Minnie, darling," he said, "while your courage lasts, you will, I trust in God, not see mine give way; and I will pray to God for faith, like you, Minnie, and that I may be able to realize that He is near us all the time, dear sister, as you say."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Now they began to come in plain sight of Saucelito, and see the Blue Bell anchored in Richardson's bay, not far from where the railroad depot is now located.  The afternoon's chilly wind was beginning to blow, a heavy, dark fog was, as usual, setting in from the sea, the rough-looking mountains and hills of Marin County around Saucelito looked terribly dark and lonesome.  The point of land on which now stand two beautiful and charmingly located hotels, with many private residences near by, and the busy railroad depot was at that time without a house of any description, or mark of man's presence.  A half mile to westward was the famous water depot, where nearly all the pioneer ships of California get their supply of fresh water, when about to put to sea.  But even at this water depot there was no regular settlement.  There was erected there a huge tank, for the reception of the water, and whatever men were necessary to do the work of supplying the ships lived near by, and no more.  The low hills and points of land around Saucelito were at that time, as they are partly now, covered with oaks and a scrubby growth of timber.  As Minnie and Walter were entering all these dark and lonesome surroundings, the prisoners of cut-throats, Walter felt Minnie's arm draw close around his waist, and a shudder or chill seemed to shake her frame.  He dropped his head until it rested lightly on hers, as he whispered:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Courage, darling Minnie, courage!"  She turned her look on his face, and with a calm smile, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, don't fear, dear Walter; it was only a chill from the cold fog."</P>
181.sgm:<P>On, on, the boat dashes, through the dark, rough water.  They  are now alongside, and, in a few minutes more, on the deck of the vessel they so feared.  Every one on board seems to obey Brown.  He orders Walter and Minnie to be conducted to the cabin, and they soon found themselves alone.  In a few minutes more, Brown makes his appearance, and says:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Wagner, Captain Ward may not be on board for two hours yet.  The cook has some dinner all prepared, and I would advise you and your sister to eat of it; for, after all, you and the Captain may come to some compromise; and, it may be, part friends.  Who knows?"  He paused, and Walter said, with his eyes on Minnie's face:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Are we to be permitted to eat alone?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Certainly; that is what I meant."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Then we will be obliged,"  said Walter, without looking toward Brown.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now a disagreeable-looking young man, whom Walter at once recognized as the boy who brought the note from Macondray &amp; Co. the morning of the forgery, entered with some broiled fowl, vegetables, and a bottle of claret wine.  They ate but sparingly, though each urged the other to eat; but they were under too intense an excitement to have much appetite.</P>
181.sgm:<P>About four o'clock, they heard a bustle on deck, and Minnie's heart sank, for she knew their hour of trial had come; but she almost at once recovered herself, and as Ward entered the cabin she had nothing but proud scorn on her lips as she sat near Walter, with her arms folded across her breast.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Good afternoon, Walter; good afternoon, Miss Minnie," said Ward, throwing himself on the sofa; and without waiting for any recognition of his salutation, he continued: "Walter, my friend, I was sorry to have had to order those little inconveniences put on your limbs; but if we come to terms they shall be removed at once, and I shall make any and every reparation for the indignity in my power."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Please to state your intentions with regard to my sister and myself," said Walter in a firm voice.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah; that is coming right to business.  Well, that is our California way, and the best way of proceeding.  I hate a round-about way of doing business.  Well, Walter; that was a close shave you made yesterday; if I had been six inches further behind, that knife you broke in the door would have ended my career."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"My only regret is that it did not.  But go on and tell us your intentions, sir.  The less I talk with you the better I feel."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"All you say is natural, but friend Walter," and here Ward arose from his seat and walked close to the brother and sister, while a bitter, sardonic smile spread over his face, "be cautious; take my advice, and do not be too short in your speech; for you know you are now in my power out here in this ship; and what is far better, this little beauty here is just as much in my power as you are."  And, as Ward spoke, he put his hand under Minnie's chin before she saw his intention.  She instantly knocked his hand away with the hardest blow she could give, and jumped to her feet.  Walter, too, started to his feet, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Coward!  you dare not, if I had not these irons on!"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Ward shrank back, and laughed a mocking laugh, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well; I will not bother you until you decline my proposition.  Only, you must take my proposition in a business way, and accept or reject it.  I will now tell you what I will do if you accept it; and then, if you wish, I will tell you what to expect if you reject it.  I want Miss Minnie Wagner to marry me; and, if she consents, we will go from here to the Bay of Monterey, and I will send on shore for the priest of that place to perform the ceremony; and until the ceremony is performed she shall be treated like a queen under your own eyes.  I will then, or now, if you both consent here to-night, give you twenty thousand dollars in gold to start business with in San Francisco, while I will trade on the coast with the ship, and neither of you shall ever have any cause to complain of me as a man or a husband."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter answered: "Set us both free on shore in San Francisco, and we will take that proposition under consideration, and give you a respectful answer; and we will pledge ourselves never to reveal your vile act of kidnapping us to-day."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Wagner, do not put me up for a fool.  I have you now where I have a fair show of making good terms, and I will not relinquish my advantage, you may be perfectly sure.  Perhaps you might now like to hear what I will do if you reject my offer.  But, before I tell that, I want a `Yes' or a `No' to the proposition I made you.  You know, Miss Minnie, that when I saw you last I told you I would pursue you in the future with deadly hate; but if you and friend Walter accept my proposition, I take all that back, and I will swear to love you forever more.  Yes; to love you as I do now, while I look on you; for I never loved a woman before as I love you; I cannot shake it off.  Yes, I cannot live without you, and have you I will, one way or the other; so say the word, `Yes' or `No.' </P>
181.sgm:<P>"Only I am in your power, I will tell you that, no matter what the consequences may be, if we are to die, roasted alive, we would not accept your proposition."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is that your answer, too?" said Ward, in a bitter tone, turning to Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"There are no torments ever yet invented I would not go through before I would accept such a degrading proposition."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, well, we shall see, dear Minnie, how you will like the choice you have made; for now I will tell you what I will do if you do not change your mind before night.  I will have the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>656</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"I do not fear you, monster as you are!  God is here near us!" said Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I will show you all about that, this very night, Miss Minnie; and if you give me too much trouble, you know, I will ornament the yard-arm with this brother of yours.  So you will have to be moderate, you know, if you want to save him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While Ward spoke, he let his dark, wolfish eyes glare on Minnie with the most fiendish look Minnie now sat close up to Walter, with her arm around his waist, and her head leaning against his shoulder.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Villain, thief and robber that you are!" said Walter, "talk no more.  Your words are as bad as your actions can be."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, no; Mr. Walter Wagner, you are not a good judge of that yet.  To-morrow you will be a good judge."  And here Ward chuckled his frightful laugh.  "Yes, Walter; as I told you yesterday, your sister will beg for marriage yet, and I may then be in the humor to refuse it."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The sister and brother made no answer, but their lips moved, as if in prayer to God, while their eyes were turned on each other.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Consider this matter, friend Walter.  Consider it well!  I am in a humor to be friendly; for the fact is, I am desperately in love, and I hate to get into bad temper.  You never saw me in a bad temper, Walter, my boy."  And Ward gave out a mocking laugh, as he continued:  "And if you ever do see me in a bad temper, the chances are you will never see that manner of mine a second time.  Oh, yes; that once will be enough for you.  And I would advise Miss Minnie, if she loves you, never to let that humor come on.  Oh, no; she had better never let it come on!  But excuse me for a moment; I have to give some orders on deck."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And now the brother and sister found themselves alone.  The first impulse was to embrace each other.  Walter raised his shackled arms over Minnie's head, and, dropping them to her waist, drew her to his bosom in a wild excitement, while he kissed her over and over, as he murmured:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Darling! darling!"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie returned his embrace, and whispered back, in a firm voice, while her breath came fast and hot against Walter's cheek:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, darling brother, do not give way!  All may depend, you know, on our courage and presence of mind."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie's words came just in time, and Walter made a desperate effort to recover his self-control, and, disengaging her, he said in a composed voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, yes, Minnie; what you say is true.  I will be firm, and presence of mind may save us yet; but these terrible shackles will unman me if I do not keep a constant watch upon myself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Walter darling, I will tell you that after I read that forged note asking me to come immediately to you, I never suspected the forgery, for the resemblance to your writing was perfect."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; perfect," said Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, I never had a doubt in regard to the note; but a sort of apprehension seized me, I knew not why," and here her voice sank to a whisper in his ear, "which caused me to place Uncle John's dagger in my bosom.  I know how to use it, you know; he showed me, as I believe I told you before."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here Minnie looked all around the cabin, and was going to draw the dagger from her bosom;  but Walter stopped her, and whispered in her ear:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Be careful; there may be eyes or ears near us, darling.  So be careful not to put your hand near where the dagger is."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are right, Walter.  Well, what I was going to say was this: That the moment they attempt to take me away from you, I will pretend to hesitate and half yield, and in that way get Ward off his guard, and then I will use it, Walter, and trust to God for the result."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter, in the same whispering way, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That will be the best way, darling, for you to act.  You know the place to strike at?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; Uncle John showed me."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Minnie spoke, her frame shook with a shudder, but she remained firm.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"God save you, darling sister, from the necessity; but risk anything, and do anything, before you let them take you away from me; and even with these shackles on, I may help and be of some use to you in the struggle."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Here he comes!  Oh, God!  assist us and give us both <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>658</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>When Ward reached the deck, on leaving Walter and Minnie, he called out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is Mr. Lawson yet on board?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir," said the second-mate; "he and his sons have just come on board."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Here I am, Captain," said Jack, stepping forward.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Where have you been, Mr. Lawson, all the day?  You should have been here attending to your duties as first officer of this ship, sir.  I looked for you on shore, but I could find nothing of you sir."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Captain, you must excuse me; for, it being the last day on shore, you see, my boys had to get an outfit for themselves, and visit their sweethearts for the last time, you know;  and I hurried them all I could, and we did not even take time to go and see Lizzie, as we intended to do."</P>
181.sgm:<P>As Jack said this, Ward started, and his frame visibly shook a little.  And Jack's eyes fell on him with a peculiar, wild gleam; but, letting them at once drop on the deck, he ran on in a careless tone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"But I promised the boys, if you put off sailing for one day more, I would go on shore with them and spend a half day or so with Lizzie; for she will be so lonesome, you know, Captain, at our going away."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, well; that is all right, Jack; and if I do defer sailing, you and the boys shall have  half a day on shore to spend with Lizzie.  I left her a handsome present of money in the hands of Macondray &amp; Co. just before I came on board; so she will have a good time while we are away."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, Captain; I have no doubt she will; that is all right.  And I hear that you have trapped a handsome piece for the voyage."  And Jack gave a meaning, chuckling laugh, intended to make the Captain think he approved of the little maneuver.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, Jack; I have; and I will have to get you to perform the marriage ceremony this evening, as you have a right by law to do, you know at sea, under certain circumstances; and one of these circumstances is, when the Captain is the man to be married, as in this case."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, we will have some fun, then," said Jack, with the same peculiar laugh.  "Is it to be to-night, Captain?"</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes; this very night."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Is she willing, or are we to have the fun of making her your wife whether she likes it or not?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, she is as obstinate as a mule, and as fiery as a wildcat."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And her brother is on board, they say?" said Jack.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Jack; he is, in irons, sitting with her in the cabin now." </P>
181.sgm:<P>"And will he not advise her to yield to save himself?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Jack; the fellow is such a fool that I believe he would tell her to hold out if we were roasting him to death."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, he is that sort, is he?  Well, well; how strange.  Well, we will see this evening; for you must not lose your game, Captain, under any circumstances."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Thank you, Jack.  And now get the boat ready to go on shore to dig up that box, you know; and give me four good men and a small crowbar, a spade, and a rope to rig the box with, so that we can bring it over the hills the same way we took it up, you recollect."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, aye, sir; all will be ready in fifteen minutes," and Jack left, and the Captain returned to the cabin.  As Ward entered the cabin, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now I have to go on shore here at Saucelito, on some business.  I will be absent for perhaps three hours, and while I am gone I want you both to take what I have said into consideration; and I advise you not to be such fools as to hope for a miracle to save you.  The days of miracles, you know, have passed; and I defy any power, above or below, to come between you and me, Minnie.  I told you our fates were linked together, you know; and now you see I was right.  I felt it in my bones ever since I saw you.  I have told you what I will do if you hold out, and as sure as we are in this cabin I will do just as I have said.  You cannot and will not escape me; but, if you accept my proposition, I will leave nothing undone to make everything agreeable to you.  So have your minds made up when I come back."</P>
181.sgm:<P>While thus addressed, Walter and Minnie remained seated as before, with a composed, unchanged look; but made no reply whatever.  Just then Brown appeared, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Did you send for me, Captain?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Mr. Brown; I want you to stay here on guard." And, as Ward spoke, he unbuckled the belt from around his waist, in which hung a revolver and bowie-knife, and, handing it to Brown, continued: "I see you are unarmed; put this on, I will get one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>660</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>So saying, he left the cabin.  As he ascended the hatchway, he said to himself:  "Why, old Jack is in great good humor, though he knows that I have the proud Yankee bird caged on board, and he actually agrees to help me to make her yield.  What a fool Brown was to think that such as he and his boys had feelings worth regarding.  Well, everything succeeds with me to a charm.  If she holds out, I will have a chance to outdo the most villainous acts ever committed by my worthy villainous father, and old Sir John will have the honor I have always promised him, of being the grandfather of the greatest rascal of modern times."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Please, Captain, the boat is all ready," said the second mate.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward now, in great good spirits, threw himself on the side-ladder, and descended into the boat before he saw who manned it.  He half started as he now saw Jack himself, his two boys, Ike and Mike, Yellow Dick and the boy Johnny Lucky, as the crew.  A suspicion shot through his mind, and his first impulse was to leap back on the ladder and call for another crew; but the boat was instantly shoved out by a quick movement of Ike's and he, disliking to betray fear or suspicion, and perceiving that none of the crew were armed, he quietly took his seat as helmsman, and said in a careless way:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why did you come yourself, Lawson?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Captain," said Jack, in a half-confidential tone, "the boys here and I have a small matter of money buried under a certain tree that we want to get, so we had to come."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that is all right," said Ward, feeling now entirely relieved, though he felt a little disagreeable as he recollected that he had forgotten to arm himself, as he intended to do when he left the cabin.</P>
181.sgm:<P>They soon reached their destination, and all jumped on shore.  Lawson said to Yellow Dick:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Stay in charge of the boat, Dick, until we come back to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, aye, sir," answered Dick.</P>
181.sgm:<P>The place where they landed was a little cove, a short distance west of the common landing used at that time for the water depot.  Captain Ward took the lead, following a trail that led <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>661</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Yes, this must be the place; let us look for the old oak tree."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walking through the small timber, they came to an open spot, covered with a mat of half-dried grass, entirely clear of timber, except one old oak tree.  This tree grew on the very outer edge of the cliff.  It had partly yielded, it would seem, in its struggles with the ever-prevailing winds from the west; for it was bent over eastward almost to the ground, and its upper side was without a branch, and those on the lower side were nearly destitute of leaves.  At this point the cliff was perhaps two hundred feet high above the water of the bay, which rushed foaming against its base all day and all night, as the ocean tide set in and out, in obedience to the laws that govern the great waters of the earth.  A huge rock seemed to shelve out over the water, and form a foundation for this little spot of open, grassy land, upon which Ward and his men now stood.  The view of the bay and surroundings far out to sea from here was magnificent beyond description.  As the party gained the opening, Ward stopped short, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, we are right.  There, yonder, is the very tree described in my memorandum."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are right, Captain; and it is under that old oak our little matter of money is buried.  Come over, Captain, and see us take it from its hiding-place."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, no," said Ward in an impatient, hurried voice; "do that yourself, after we have got through.  Somehow I hate the sight of this place to-night; to me it looks horribly cheerless and cold.  What Brown admires about it I don't see; for that frightful precipice is all that I can see, and I am near enough to that now to suit me; so let us go back here into this timber and dig up the box while we have daylight, and be gone from this cursed looking place."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Aye, here is the spot, sure enough," said Ward, pointing to a little mound well covered with grass; "and here are the four trees marked just as noted in my book; so off with your coats and to work lively, as I want to get out of this dismal place before dark."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ike and Mike obeyed without hesitation, and fell to work with a will.  Soon the box came to view.  Ward and Jack stood close to each other with their eyes fixed on the work.  Ike now threw the crowbar, with which he had been trying to move the box, behind him and behind his father also, and dropped on his knees as if to examine the box, while he exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Look, Captain Ward; I fear it has been opened and robbed!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Ward stooped to look, and, as he did so, Jack, with a movement as noiseless and stealthy as a wildcat when preparing to spring on its prey, picked up the crowbar, and, whirling it in the air, made a blow at Ward's head.  The pirate's quick eye caught the shadow of the uplifted weapon, just in time to move his head and receive the terrible iron on his left arm, breaking it short off at the elbow.  Now all three men sprang on Ward.  He is borne down to the ground; but with almost superhuman strength he throws back his assailants with terrible blows from his only arm.  The Lawsons are covered with their own blood, flowing from nose and mouth.  There is no outcry heard from the terrible struggle--nothing but the quick, hard breathing and hoarse growling sound, sometimes taking form in words of muttered imprecation and hate.  The contest is as noiseless as that of bulldogs in their fiercest fights.  Ward is dragged, foot by foot, towards the cliff.  Every yard of the ground is marked by the struggle.  Nearer and nearer to the fearful precipice they approach.  Johnny, wild with excitement, holds the rope in his hands, while he jumps up and down, and makes all sorts of contortions, in sympathy with the changes in the struggle.  Now the cliff is almost gained.  Ward is on his face, held down by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>663</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"The rope, Johnny, the rope!" cries Jack.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Quick as a flash, Johnny hands it to Ike, with the noose all prepared.  Ike jumps from his position, slips the noose over Ward's head, and stoops while he fastens the end of the rope to the butt of the oak tree.  Ward, who seems to have been gathering all his strength for one mighty effort, gives a sudden bound, and clears himself of both Jack and Mike.  In an instant more, he seizes Ike by the belt on his waist, and now, with his only arm, he holds him over his head, crying out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Back, you murderers, or he goes over the cliff!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jack and Mike utter a fearful yell, and spring on him.  Then Ike goes whirling over Ward's arm from the cliff.  Now Ward fastens a despairing death grip on the Lawsons, and all three seem sure to go together over the cliff.  But no; by kicks and blows they force Ward over the edge.  Then he grasps the rope near the end fastened to the tree, and slides slowly down half its length, until, sailor-like, he clasps it with his feet, and, using his teeth as a second hand, he begins to ascend again.  Jack and Mike stand over him, watching, in their wild, savage fury, his desperate struggle for life.  Now his ascent is stopped; for his teeth give way, and blood streams from his mouth.  He looks up and sees Jack above him, with a fragment of rock in his hand, and about to hurl it upon him.  In a hoarse, half-stifled voice, he cries out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Jack, take me up, and I will marry Lizzie, and make you all rich!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Ah, villain, Lizzie is dead, and I swore to send you to her; for she is waiting for you to fling you into the infernal regions, where you belong!  Yes; here is Lizzie's answer and the message she sends you!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>While Jack spoke, Ward's eyes were fixed, staring on the rock in Jack's hands, and his eyes and head never moved as the terrible messenger of death came, with unerring aim, rushing through the air.  Then the skull crushes in, the eyes leap from their sockets, the bloody jaw drops and the hideous, mutilated mass falls to the full length of the rope with a horrid thud!</P>
181.sgm:<P>It is almost night.  The fog is now dense and dark, and the wind is rushing with a lonesome moan through the timber on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>664</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Oh, society, society! are not your ways, modes and worldly teachings responsible for this woeful scene of here to-day at Saucelito?</P>
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181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>AT SEA IN AN OPEN BOAT--RESCUED BY DE FOREST.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After Ward had left the cabin to go on shore at Saucelito, Walter and Minnie remained seated together in a terrible state of suspense, yet careful to show no sign of fear to Brown's eye.  They seldom spoke, and then in whispers.  Brown walked up and down, but did not attempt to address them.  Time passed, and it grew almost dark.  Brown ordered the cabin lamps lit; he took out his watch, and began to look very uneasy, and once said aloud: "I cannot understand what detains the Captain so long."  Then an undefined hope came to the brother and sister; but so faint that they did not dare to express it to each other.  Brown grew more and more uneasy.  He went to the upper steps of the cabin stairway, and called for the second mate.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Where," he asks, "is Mr. Lawson?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"With the Captain, on shore, sir."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh," said Brown, with a start, "and who are the other men with the Captain and Mr. Lawson?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Mr. Lawson's two sons, sir, Yellow Dick and the boy Johnny Lucky."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Brown grew deadly pale, and became so faint that he had to sit down on the stairway.  The second mate, not observing his agitation, retired.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, it must be," murmured Brown; "old Jack has him sure.  Yellow Dick is Jack's cousin, and Johnny Lucky would cut any fellow's throat for them.  Was the Captain mad when he left with such a boat's crew?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just as Brown got back to the cabin, he heard the noise of a boat alongside.  He again turned deadly pale, and threw himself on the sofa, repeating over and over:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, he's got him, he's got him, and I am lost!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now he plainly hears men leap on deck, and an order given out in Jack's voice, with the answers from the second mate, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>666</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Faith in God, Minnie; courage!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, darling; that tremor is over, thank God!"  And she smiles in her brother's face and is a woman once more, ready to face any danger.</P>
181.sgm:<P>She averted her eyes from the stair-way when she heard the steps, and so did Walter, and now they are surprised and startled by hearing Jack's voice close to them, and, looking up, they see him, and three stout men, standing before Brown with revolvers in hand, while Jack says: "Mr. Brown, sir, throw up your arms!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Brown obeys, crying out piteously: "Oh, Jack, spare my life, and I will serve you like a slave.  I had nothing to do with Lusk's treachery to poor Lizzie."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Hold, villain, hold!  Do not dare to speak her name again, or I will first cut out your tongue and then cast you ironed into the sea!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Now Brown cringed to the floor with abject fear.  He tried to speak; he tried to beg for life, and his jaws opened and shut, but not a word could the wretch articulate.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Take that belt off him, Mike," said Jack.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Brown, with trembling hands, unbuckled the belt himself and handed it to Mike.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Where is the key to those shackles?" continued Jack, pointing to Walter, while he looked at Brown.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Still trembling, Brown drew the key from his pocket and gave it to Mike.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Take those shackles off, Mike, and put them on this fellow."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, aye, sir," answered Mike, as he approached Walter, who now began to yield to a feeling of hope that was like a dream, and Minnie could hardly contain herself, there was such a rush of hope and joy about her heart.  She did not yet understand how it was that Ward was not to come back, and that Jack seemed to have command of everything.  Nor did Walter exactly comprehend it, and they both looked on in amazement, sometimes doubting if they really were awake.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jack continued: "As soon as you have the irons on, take the fellow and put him in the hold, all secure, until I have time to attend to his case."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, mercy, mercy, Jack!  I have $10,000, and you can have it all, if you will let me live and go on shore, and I will never betray you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Away with the howling hound!" cried Jack, fiercely; and, moaning and begging, and shackled with the irons taken from Walter, Yellow Dick and Mike dragged Brown up the stairs and out of hearing.  Now Jack turned to Walter, and said: "Young man, can you row a boat?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I think so," said Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Would you venture to attempt, in this dark night, to row a boat to San Francisco, if I give you one to take your sister there?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will try, anyway, and be most grateful to you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"As to your gratitude, young man, it is of no consequence to me now.  I feel that my career is over.  I have done things in my life that it will not do to even talk of.  I am sorry for them, and I will do as poor Lizzie always wanted me to do--I will pray every day to God and the Savior to forgive me.  Do you know, lady," continued Jack, turning to Minnie, "I once had a daughter as dear to me as you are to your brother?  I educated her like a lady.  I had her taught the religion of my country.  She looked to me so sweet and beautiful, and I only lived to love her.  I used to dream of her all night, and every day I would laugh to myself when I thought of her.  Well, well; this morning the man I had served all my life murdered her.  Yes; Lusk--or Captain Ward, as we used to call him here--murdered her, after first proving false to her; and, having no power to get the law to punish him, we hanged him this evening by the neck from the cliff yonder.  And my poor boy Ike lost his life in the struggle; for we had a fearful fight."  Here Jack stopped, shuddered, and turned away for a moment, as if to get command of his voice.  After pacing up and down the cabin for a minute, he continued: "I once loved this man Lusk better than I loved any one in the world not of my own blood.  I served him in every way, without asking the why or the wherefore; and, in return, he murdered my darling pet, my sweet child!  But he is dead, on the cliff yonder, and I have no more to say of him."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie said, in her own sweet voice: "I wish I could say a word that would give you any comfort."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Comfort!  Oh, no, lady; no comfort for me!  My last hope <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>668</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Then Minnie, in the gentlest way, told him what she thought he ought to do, and how he ought to pray.  He listened attentively, and promised to do as she told him.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"One thing more I will ask of you to do, for Lizzie's sake," said Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"And what can that be?" said Jack, looking surprised.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will ask you to spare the life of that wretched man Brown."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why," said Jack, "that was the fellow that helped Lusk in his game about poor Lizzie, and to trap you and your brother.  Do you know that?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes; I know it all.  But the Christian religion requires us to forgive all our enemies, if we expect to be forgiven ourselves."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jack hesitated, and then said: "Would Lizzie agree with you?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Most certainly she would."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, then, I will spare his life; for I want to do what you think Lizzie would wish me to do.  And now I have a request to make of you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well," said Minnie, "I am glad of that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I want you to go to Miss Scott's boarding-house, and find where Lizzie is buried.  And I want you to go yourself and put some flowers and little ornaments around the grave for me."  And then the old man's voice choked, and for some time he did not speak.  Minnie, in earnest language, promised to attend to the grave.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Not only now," she said, "but on every Christmas eve."  A promise she never forgot to this day.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jack now turned to Walter, saying: "I will send Johnny Lucky on shore with you, and he will be of some help in working the boat.  He is a good sailor, and Mr. Wagner, if it comes in your way, give him a helping hand to get employment and the like.  I will give the poor boy some money to start with, and I want you to advise him to be good, as Lizzie used to do."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Here the old man again paused, and continued: "I would keep you until daylight, but we have to weigh anchor right off and put to sea; for I must avoid some ten men, who are to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>669</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>As Jack spoke, he left the cabin, and the brother and sister again found themselves alone.  And now they yielded to their first impulse, and poured out their thanks to the Almighty Giver of all good for their deliverance.  Eatables were now before them, and with a good heart they ate, to give them strength for the work before them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a few minutes Jack announced the boat ready, saying to Walter: "I have put a demijohn of water on board, plenty of hard bread, three blankets, and something else that you will find when daylight comes, that belongs of right to you; so that if you do miss your reckoning to-night, you will not starve or freeze."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And now old Jack stooped down and whispered to Minnie: "Pray for me, for I have no one on earth to do it, now that Lizzie is dead."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You shall have my poor prayers as long as life lasts," answered Minnie, as she stepped on the ladder and committed herself to the protection of a stout sailor, who descended it with her and placed her in safety in the boat.  Then Walter took his place at the oars, and Johnny Lucky, with a lantern and a small pocket compass he got from Jack, took his place at the tiller.  The night was dark, dismal and foggy, and, manned as the boat was, the situation of our friends was truly dangerous; but this they did not see.  No; all they thought of now was their wonderful deliverance from the power of Lusk.  They did not fear to face the danger of death in an ordinary way.  Walter, too, was confident that he could row the little boat with perfect ease.  Jack had instructed Johnny as to the course the boat should hold to make San Francisco; so Walter did not fear tke result, and with a light heart shoved off, and was soon out of hearing of the terrible bark they had that day approached with such fear.  Johnny Lucky was a strange acting and looking boy.  He had always a wild, scared look about him.  He seldom spoke, except when compelled to by the business in hand.  Then he said but little; not a word more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>670</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>Minnie sat in the bow of the boat, with one of the Blue Bell's new red blankets, which Jack had given them, wrapped around her.  For the first half hour, no one spoke, though Walter's and Minnie's thoughts were all wild and joyous at their recovered freedom.  Then Johnny, in a quick, sharp tone, said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You let your oars go too deep, Captain; you never will hold out that way."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter corrected the fault without speaking.  Then, in a little while, Johnny covered his lamp with his handkerchief, so as to hide its light, and dropping on his knees peered close down over the water as far as he could see in the darkness, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"The fog is lifting a little, and I think I can see land, and I think it is Alcatraz Island, and that the tide is taking us out towards the Golden Gate.  We must make to the east of the island, Captain, or we may get out to sea."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, Johnny, you keep her heading right and I will do my best," said Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Aye, aye, sir," came from Johnny.</P>
181.sgm:<P>In a few minutes more, Johnny is again on his knees, peering over the water, and now exclaims:</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, if I am not mistaken about that land being Alcatraz, we are losing instead of gaining."  Then, rising quickly, he said: "Lady, come and take my place; I will show you how to handle the tiller and look at the compass, and I will take the other pair of oars."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie instantly, with Walter's help, was by Johnny's side.  He showed her what to do, and Minnie at once comprehended her duty.</P>
181.sgm:<P>And now Johnny threw himself into a seat in front of Walter; threw out the other pair of oars and worked in time with Walter.  Now the boat seemed to fly through the water, and so they worked for perhaps twenty minutes.  Walter said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Look again, Johnny."</P>
181.sgm:<P>In an instant he was on his knees, and exclaimed:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, we cannot make it.  Our only chance now will be to head our boat a point or two to the westward and try to make the main land east of the Fort.  If we can catch that point, it is as much as we can do now.'</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then turning to Minnie, he showed her the required change in the compass, and dropped back into his place.  And now they both pulled with all their might.  Not a word was spoken for another half-hour.  And now the fog again became so thick that they could not see five yards from the boat.  Johnny again breaks silence by saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"We will be either out to sea or close on land by the Fort in fifteen minutes.  Can you hold out pulling for that time, Captain?" turning his head to Walter as he spoke.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Johnny, I can hold out if you can."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I will do so if it kills me," was Johnny's reply.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why do you say fifteen minutes, Johnny?" said Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Because, Captain, I know about what time it takes to cross the bay, in any way you can take it, and I have had two such scrapes as this before, and we saved ourselves by an oar's length."</P>
181.sgm:<P>No more was then said, and Walter and Johnny pulled as men pull for dear life.  Johnny soon began to duck down his head in a  listening attitude, but made no remark until the full fifteen minutes were passed.  Then he said, in a low, disappointed tone:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"We must have missed it, Captain; the ebbing tide was too much for us."</P>
181.sgm:<P>No one spoke for ten minutes more, and Walter and Johnny <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>672</CONTROLPGNO>
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181.sgm:<P>"Oh, we are out beyond the Heads, sure; for here are the big waves and swells.  I must take the tiller, or we may be capsized."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And poor Minnie, with her heart sunk low, but courageous, took a seat in front of Walter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Take it easy now, Captain; for we must cruise here till day-light," was Johnny's first remark after taking his new position.  Minnie asked him, in a low voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Can a boat as small as this live at sea?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, lady; in moderate weather we might live a month, if well managed, and even longer."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Johnny," said Walter, "you know a hundred times more about the sea than I do; so I will be guided in what I do by what you say."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, if you can row on, in an easy sort of a way, for about twenty minutes, do so.  Then I can judge where we are by the motion of the water.  I know now that we have crossed the bar, and that we are at sea; but I cannot yet tell our relative position to the harbor."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So Walter rowed on as advised by Johnny, while he spoke cheerfully to Minnie.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, Walter," she said, "I am not frightened.  Our situation out here on this dark water is surely fearful but, oh, how little I mind it, compared to the terrible danger we were delivered from this very evening."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Walter; "I do not mind this in the least, though we may be in danger; but it is danger from death, and death only.  The frightful position we escaped from I cannot, even now, on this dark, dismal sea, bear to think of in comparison."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"No, Walter; somehow I feel and seem to realize that here we are, if I may so express it, in God's especial keeping!  That He holds us in his hand, as it were, to do with us as He sees fit.  So let us bow cheerfully to His will, whatever that may be."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Darling Minnie, it makes me feel happy to hear you talk so bravely, and I hope I will set you no bad example.  I wish I could know that that note was really taken up and paid, and then, it appears to me, I would feel perfectly satisfied; for then, if anything was to happen to us out here, there would be no danger of disgrace to our name."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>"You mean the forged note in Page, Bacon &amp; Co.'s bank?" said Johnny.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Johnny.  What do you know about it?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, I know all about.  That was the way they were to send you to State Prison, if your sister did not marry Captain Lusk; and they tried to get the note out of the bank.  But the bank would not give it up without an order from you; and then Lusk forged a letter from you, telling the bank to give it up.  But just as Brown got to the bank, he saw the clerk handing the note to a man by the name of Fitzgerald.  When Lusk heard that he swore, and was very mad."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, that is glorious!" said the brother and sister.  "Thank you, Johnny, thank you."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now," said Johnny, "let us not talk, but listen.  Stop rowing, Captain."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then Johnny threw himself on the side of the boat, and letting his head drop near the water, remained listening for five minutes, while he seemed hardly to breathe.  He then sat up erect, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, Captain, lay up your oars.  We are over a mile from land, anyway, and it may be that the ebb tide has taken us miles out.  So now make a place for the lady to lie down on, and you and I will take watch about, until daylight."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"I am satisfied," said Walter, "and I will take the first watch.  So tell me what it is necessary for me to do while on the watch?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>"You are to keep the tiller in your hand, and keep the boat heading towards the swells and waves, as I am doing; and you must keep your ears sharp open, to catch the sound of breakers, in case we should drift in shore, or on the rocks."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now," said Minnie, "if that is all there is to do, I insist on taking a watch, so that you two, who are so terribly tired from rowing, can get some sleep.  I am fresh, and could not sleep if I were to lie down now.  so I entreat to be let do this, dear Walter."</P>
181.sgm:<P>At first Walter would not listen to the proposal, but at length he yielded to her earnest request, and it was agreed that she was to take the first two hours, as her watch, on condition that she should lie down for the remainder of the night.  Walter now gave Minnie his time-piece, putting the guard-chain around her neck, and Johnny and he wrapped themselves in their blankets and were soon asleep at her feet.</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Now, my young readers, let me ask you to stop with me and look at Minnie as she sits upright, with unflinching courage, in the stern of that boat, with both her little hands grasping the tiller.  There is no covering on her head but her own luxuriant hair, for her ears must be kept free to hear every uncommon sound.  Her form, from her waist down, is wrapped in the red blanket, got from the pirate ship.  Her large, bright eyes are wide open, trying to pierce the darkness around her.  She scarcely breathes, she is listening so for the dangers she is warned of.  Her brother and the boy are sleeping at her feet, wrapped in their blankets.  Now and then she glances at them, and a smile of satisfaction, though sad it may be, passes over her face, and then her gaze is upwards for a moment, and her lips quiver and move, as if in earnest supplication to Him in whose keeping she knows their frail bark rides the dark, fearful ocean beneath her.  Boys and girls of California pioneer parents, be proud, for such were your mothers!  Aye, and to you men of the California Pioneer Society, we will say shame! for such are the women your constitution excludes from membership.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Just at one o'clock Minnie called Walter, as had been agreed on, and then laid down herself in his place, and was soon rocked to sleep by the great waves of the mighty waters of the Pacific.  Walter's watch was three hours, Johnny then took his turn, while Walter slept soundly until after the approach of daylight.  The only land in sight as light spread over the ocean, was a mountain, far to the north of them; and they found it impossible to judge in what position they were to the harbor of San Francisco.  However, after some discussion, they put the boat on a course they thought most likely to be correct, and rowed slowly on in that direction.  Then breakfast was made on hard bread and a drink of the water from the supply Jack had given them.  They had made an unexpected discovery this morning.  They found, in the bottom of the boat, the two buckskin bags of gold-dust that had been stolen from Walter the night of his arrival in San Francisco from Downieville.  The bags were exactly in the condition they were when Walter handed them to Brown for safe-keeping, sealed as Walter had sealed them, and each seal was marked: "Wagner and Hilton.  $3,500."  Johnny gave a smile as the discovery was made, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Those two sacks went on board the Blue Bell the night you gave them to Brown."</P>
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181.sgm:<P>Walter threw them down again, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That was what Jack alluded to last night, when he said he put something on board belonging to us of right.  And they will be nice to have if we get safely home."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Walter, dear," said Minnie; "and I take our finding them as a good omen."</P>
181.sgm:<P>The gold was not thought of again for some time.  The sea was calm, and the day proved intensely hot.  They were all feverish from the excitement and hard rowing of the night before, and Walter, particularly, drank water very often.  Johnny at length said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"That will not do, Captain; we must drink as little as possible, for we may get out of water before we get out of this scrape, and then we die sure!'</P>
181.sgm:<P>This caution startled Walter and Minnie, as they had never thought of such a chance as that before.  So now all drank sparingly.  The whole day passed, but no land came in sight in the direction in which they were rowing.  Nor did a sail show itself.  The night closed in, and was gone through just as the night before had been.  They were now very sparing of the water, and Johnny measured out each one's allowance with an old tin cup he found in the boat.  Minnie wanted to take less than Walter and Johnny, insisting that they needed it more than she did; but to this they would not listen, and insisted on her taking her full share with them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Yes, Minnie," said Walter; "while the water lasts, we will share and share alike, and trust in God for the rest!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>The morning of the second day came, and was, like the first, hot and parching; and no land yet appeared in sight.  They now materially changed their course, and rowed on in a slow sort of a way.  They reduced the allowance of water to the very lowest living quantity, and all were suffering terribly from thirst.  They had plenty of the hard bread, but they dare not eat it, because it increased their thirst to drink.  Sometimes they broke crumbs of the bread in a few drops of the water, and took both together in that way.  Three or four sails appeared in sight this day, but, though they kept their red blankets up as a signal, no notice was taken of it, and the sails disappeared, one after another, leaving them almost in despair.  At four o'clock, land came plainly in sight, but they were unfit to row in consequence of their want of water, for every drop was now gone. and their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>676</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>668</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"Darling Walter, try and control yourself."</P>
181.sgm:<P>He would put his hand over his eyes, saying: "Yes, dear Minnie, you are right; I will, I will."  Then, in a little while, he would begin to sing, saying: "We may as well sing, Minnie.  There is no harm in that."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then again Minnie would control him, and so the fearful third night was spent.  Day light came; but an intense, dark fog was on the sea.  Johnny raised up from where he lay, and said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Now, let us all join in one long, loud cry.  It may be some ship is lying very near us, and will hear it.  I have known of such a cry at sea being heard a great distance through a fog like this."</P>
181.sgm:<P>So they all joined in the cry, and it was beyond description mournful to hear.  Minnie joined, but her cry was all to God, asking for Walter's safety far more than her own.  They sat back, Johnny and Walter with their heads resting on the side of the boat, almost gasping for breath.  Minnie sat erect, as calm and composed as ever; but her lips were apart, and her breath was hard and short.  After awhile, Johnny gave the signal, and one cry more went out into the fog, with a yet more terrible and mournful sound.  Walter now threw himself into the bottom of the boat, and laid his head in Minnie's lap, looking up in her face, as with a smile, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Poor Minnie!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>She stooped her head down, and kissed him, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Walter, darling, say `Thy will, not mine, be done, my God.'"</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>677</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>669</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Walter instantly repeated the words after her, and, closing his eyes, he seemed sometimes half-asleep, and sometimes a choking spasm shook his frame; but he never moved his head from Minnie's lap, and she continued to every now and then change the wet cloth on his neck.  Suddenly Johnny cries out:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, we are saved! we are saved!  A brig! look, a brig!  A brig!  Oh, we are saved! we are saved!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>And he leaps up and down, and then gives a loud cry, and drops back into the bottom of the boat in a half-stupor.  Walter started at Johnny's cry, raised his head and sees the brig; then dropped it back into the same position, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Why won't they let us die in peace?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie hears the cry, raises her head, and sees the ship coming directly for them.  Her eyes are fastened on it.  Now she sees a boat lowered.  Now the ship and boat look to her all on fire, and in the bright fire-light she plainly sees James De Forest.  Now her senses seem to be all confused.  She laughs aloud, leans her head down over Walter, and, with her hand turning back his hair from his forehead, she murmurs: "Darling, darling!" and continues laughing hysterically.  The ship's boat is now alongside, and Minnie hears a well-known voice close to her, saying:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, darling Minnie, you are saved!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>She turns her head with a sudden start, and says:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, James; I knew we would find you in heaven before us.  Poor Walter and I died last night.  How long have you been here?"</P>
181.sgm:<P>Frightened and shocked, De Forest trembled at the sight before him, and only said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Darling Minnie, Walter and you are both saved.  Try and compose yourselves."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, James; but if you were here when we died, you would have been so sorry."  Then suddenly she calls loudly: "Water, water, for Walter!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>They were now alongside the brig, and De Forest, catching Minnie in his arms, scrambled up the side in sailor fashion, and laid his precious burden safely down on the deck of the May Day.  The sailors did the same for Walter and the boy.  The Captain now took charge of restoring the sufferers, and would allow no interference.  Water was given to them by spoonfuls only.  The boy recovered first, and, as he came to himself, he suddenly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>678</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>670</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"News! news!  Come to the Chief's office!"</P>
181.sgm:<P>As soon as the May Day had touched the wharf, De Forest had Walter and Minnie conveyed in a carriage to their cottage; and Mrs. Marshall kindly accompanied them, as Minnie's fever continued to increase.  Minnie now lay in bed in her own, sweet, little room, but in a burning fever.  Jane was soon back at her post, and Dr. Coit was called, and did all that was possible to subdue the fever that raged in her veins.  All night Jane and Mrs. Marshall watched by Minnie; but morning found her no better.  Walter and all her friends were in the greatest alarm.  A nurse was procured, as good Mrs. Marshall had to return to her husband.  Then the news reached Colonel Eaton's of Minnie's great danger, and Mrs. Eaton and Fannie both came in haste to see her, which ended in their staying to nurse her.  Nine days; and yet poor Minnie seemed to linged between life and death, and Dr. Coit would give no opinion.  A council of physicians was called, and Dr. Coit's treatment was approved.  Another day, and all is joy and happiness, for Dr. Coit, as he leaves Minnie's room, says:</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>679</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>671</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>"The crisis is past, Mrs. Eaton.  She is safe, if properly cared for.  Visitors kept away, and all allusions to the terrible scenes she has lately gone through should be carefully avoided."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter and De Forest, who were crouched down in their chairs in the little sitting-room, waiting for the doctor's words, which they knew were to announce Minnie's life or death, heard what he said to Mrs. Eaton with feelings of joy that no one can describe.  But we know that in their ecstasy of joy, they did not forget to acknowledge with overflowing gratitude from whence the blessing came.  Yes, dear Minnie; the storm that was so long gathering over you has spent its force, and has now cleared away, leaving not a trace of a cloud behind to cast a shadow on your future California life.  You are not only uninjured, but you have proved yourself to be a Christian in faith and fidelity, and every inch a true woman; a worthy daughter of the great Republic that gave you birth; a worthy child of the young giant State you have adopted as your own, and that you love so devotedly.  Yes, Minnie; the clouds are all gone, and we have not a doubt but that your faith in <HI REND="italics">God</HI>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>680</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII.</HEAD>
181.sgm:<P>HAPPY EVENTS--CONCLUSION.</P>
181.sgm:<P>A few words more and my little history must end, for I cannot intrude further on friends by going into their after lives, even if their career among us be ever so prosperous.</P>
181.sgm:<P>While Minnie was so sick Walter was surprised one morning by a visit from Johnny Lucky.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Captain," said he, "you see, I was walking along the shore, beyond the Presidio, just to look at the place they say the Blue Bell went ashore the night we left her, and I suddenly came on two dead bodies that were washed on shore, and I turned them over, and one was old Jack sure; so I thought I would ask you to help me to get it nicely buried near poor Miss Lizzie's grave."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And here the boy turned away and wiped his eyes.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Walter at once gave the necessary assistance.  So, for long years, a marble head-stone stood in the Yerba Buena Cemetery, with two names handsomely engraved on it; one was Elizabeth Lawson, the other was John Lawson, and the grave was always handsomely decorated with rose-bushes and geraniums, evidently well guarded and cared for by some unknown hand.</P>
181.sgm:<P>At this interview with Johnny, Walter inquired if he knew anything of what became of the body of Lusk.  The boy told him that the next day after leaving the May Day he went to Saucelito to see if he could find any traces of the body of Ike Lawson; but that he did not find a trace of it, and that when he visited the spot where they had hanged Lusk he found that the rope had been cut by its friction on the rocks, and that the body had disappeared in the sea.</P>
181.sgm:<P>During the following year Walter often met with John Lucky; but he was always reticent, and at length disappeared altogether from his view; and, though many knew him and had often listened to his strange stories, yet, when he finally disappeared,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>681</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>673</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>When once Minnie passed the crisis, she regained her health and strength rapidly, and on the third day of her convalescence Mrs. Eaton and Fannie left for their own home, as the Colonel expressed himself very lonely without them.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie was now overrun with congratulations from all her friends.  Captain Fitzgerald was installed as a member of her family, and the evening of his life was rescued from its lonesome outlook.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie and James De Forest have had their full explanation, and he is entirely satisfied with her reasons for not being more open with him when such grave difficulties began to gather around Walter -- but then he hints to her that perhaps she was a little too proud in the matter.</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, dear James," she says, "perhaps that was so, and that I was punished for my pride."</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Well, never mind, darling Minnie," he says; "all is well that ends well, you know; and if I had not started for Oregon just as I did, perhaps no one on board of the May Day would have heard your cry for help."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And then they closed the discussion in a way to suit themselves, and settled the matter as sweetly and innocently as they had often made up disputes when children together.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Captain Fitzgerald is preparing to start for New York to bring out his long-lost sister.  Then Walter and Minnie give the Captain a power of attorney to join with their mother in making a deed of their sweet little Newark homestead to Uncle John Wagner.  Then James De Forest goes to Oregon, to return by the time Captain Fitzgerald gets back; and he does return all right, after having prepared a beautiful residence in his Oregon home in every respect as he knew Minnie's taste to be.</P>
181.sgm:<P>After Fanny Eaton returned home with her mother, Walter very soon found he had pressing business in the neighborhood of Sacramento.  Fannie's heart bounds when she hears his voice in the parlor.  She is pale and scarlet by turns.  She cannot stay out of the parlor, though she did not wish to appear to be in a hurry to go in.  As she enters, she intends to look surprised when she sees Walter, but she makes an egregious failure of it -- and finds she cannot possibly ask him, as she intended to do, what he came for; for she knows right well what he came <HI REND="italics">for</HI>
181.sgm:<P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>682</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>674</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>Early the next morning Walter takes a chance to talk to Fannie.  He tells her of Minnie's engagement and impending marriage with James De Forest, and goes on to tell her how terribly lonesome and miserable he will be when Minnie is gone; and draws such aghast picture that Fannie's tears flow fast, and then her heart throbs -- oh, so hard, that you could hear it across the room -- and she lets Walter take her hand, for the poor fellow is so sad and lonesome talking of Minnie; and then, as he whispers something, very low, to her, she looks up.  then their eyes meet, and then -- and then -- yes --- and then -- well, I cannot tell a word more without a breach of confidence; so excuse me, my dear young readers; but one thing I will tell you, though strange it may appear, after such depression and sadness:</P>
181.sgm:<P>When Walter and Minnie appeared at breakfast they were both -- yes, both -- though Minnie was to go to Oregon so soon -- in the wildest and most joyous spirits; and the happy feeling seemed to have a contagion about it; for Colonel and Mrs. Eaton acted as happily and frolicsome as if they were only just married that day themselves, or going to be, instead of the staid old couple they were the night before when Mrs. Eaton had such use for her handkerchief.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then, after Walter gets back to San Francisco, comes a letter to Fannie from Minnie, full of joyous congratulations and lighthearted fun, and it concludes:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"So you see, Miss Fannie, I am not the mischievous, wicked, good-for-nothing girl you once called me, after all.  And now, Fannie, darling sister, as from this day I call you, I want you to get your dear parents to consent that we be married the same day, here in San Francisco."</P>
181.sgm:<P>And so it was in the end arranged.  Then came good Isaac Hilton to San Francisco; and, after due consideration, articles of partnership between him and Walter were agreed on, to do business in San Francisco.  Walter's recovered gold gave him sufficient capital to do this, and Captain Fitzgerald put twenty thousand dollars into the concern as a silent partner.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then came the realization of James De Forest's day-dream; but even brighter and more joyous than he had dared to dream it.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>683</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>675</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>The little church in Market street is crowded with friends on that early morning.</P>
181.sgm:<P>James De Forest and Minnie, Walter and Fannie, stand before the altar.  Father Maginnis is there to perform the double marriage.  Walter and Minnie's beloved mother is there, as well as Colonel and Mrs. Eaton, Captain Fitzgerald, Isaac Hilton and his good wife, John A. McGlynn, James Becket, Mr. and Mrs. Edmund Allen, with their two beautiful eldest children.l</P>
181.sgm:<P>Jerry Brady had come on a special invitation from Minnie to be master of ceremonies in the carriage line -- and it is my opinion that General Sherman did not look half so proud when he was marching through Washington City, at the head of a victorious army at the close of the war of rebellion, than Jerry Brady did that wedding day while giving orders in regard to the carriages.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Captain Fitzgerald had presented Jerry with a fine gold watch and chain.  The chain was in length and fashion of the regular log-chain style, and no horseman in the State could show one to excel it.</P>
181.sgm:<P>I will just mention here that Jerry found himself greatly disturbed and made very unhappy by the many attractions of Jane (Minnie's faithful hired girl) and, seeing that she was attracted by the display of gold across his breast, he though it a favorable moment to tell Jane of his desolate and unhappy feeling, and of the nice little home he had in Sacramento to share with somebody; and she listened until Jerry slyly got a turn of the gold chain around her neck; and the consequences was that Jerry Brady wrote to his dear, old mother in Ireland and countermanded the order for "the girl that was to be shipped for him around Cape Horn, with a bit of a bill of lading, all properly signed by the Captain of the ship," as he had told the gamblers that morning on the Marysville road, when he was so gallantly aiding in Minnie's rescue.</P>
181.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>684</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>676</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>As Father Maginnis was wishing Minnie good-bye, he said:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"Minnie, child, you are too much dressed to-day.  Take off those things," pointing to her gay bridal dress and ornaments, "as soon as you can, and put on your every-day, useful clothes."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Minnie laughed, and then,  she saw big tears in the old man's eyes as he continued in a low, hurried voice:</P>
181.sgm:<P>"God bless you, Minnie; be as good as you always were.  Good-bye, good-bye.  I am in a hurry to be off."</P>
181.sgm:<P>Then came a magnificent breakfast given to that joyous wedding party by Captain Fitzgerald and his sister, Mrs. Wagner.  As at that time I was a reporter for one of the daily papers, I had an invitation, and enjoyed the whole scene with a zest a pioneer Californian alone could feel.  I marked well the company, and I felt proud of our people and of our young State.  And, as I walked home, I could not help exclaiming: "Oh, California! California!  if your acquisition has cost treasure and valuable lives, you have flung broadcast over your sister States gold by the million and the million, that has cheered many and many a weary heart!  And you have, besides, enriched the National treasury, which may yet save the nation, if endangered by foreign foe, or civil feud.  Yes; if your coming has brought sorrow to some hearts, you have also brought joys to many, with no sparing hand.  If, in the wish to possess themselves of your treasures, villains and hypocrites have come to the surface, and fed for a time on the vitals of the people, you have also drawn forth from obscurity a hundred times the number of as brave and noble a race of men as ever trod the earth; and, above all, you have drawn forth for our administration and love, a race of women unsurpassed, the world over, in every quality that makes women dear to men, and fit mothers for children of this republic.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Yes; California, you have drawn forth in '47, '48, '49, '50 and '51, pioneer women worthy of a place in history alongside those who accompanied the English emigrants to Plymouth Rock, and Lord Baltimore to the shores of Maryland.  Yes; whose history will serve to arouse emulation among the true daughters of America and shame away luxuriant idleness from the precincts of their houses.</P>
181.sgm:<P>Yes; dear California, we may be proud of your men, your climate,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>685</CONTROLPGNO>
181.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>677</PRINTPGNO>
181.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
181.sgm:<P></P>
182.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-182</TITLE>
182.sgm:<TITLE>Notes of two trips to California and return, taken in 1883 and 1886-7, by Solomon Mead: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
182.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
182.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
182.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
182.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
182.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
182.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
182.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>18-15287</LCCN>
182.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
182.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>252087</COPYRIGHT>
182.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>NOTES OF TWO TRIPS</P>
182.sgm:<P>TO</P>
182.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA AND RETURN,</P>
182.sgm:<P>TAKEN IN</P>
182.sgm:<P>1883 and 1886-7,</P>
182.sgm:<P>BY</P>
182.sgm:<P>SOLOMON MEAD</P>
182.sgm:<P>WITH APPENDIX.</P>
182.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<HEAD>Daily Notes of a Tour of Eight Weeks, taken <LB>by Solomon Mead, across the <LB>Continent in 1883.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 3d, 1883.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Left Greenwich, Ct., at 7 a.m., for New York city, where we are to join one of Cook's excursion parties, consisting of the following sixty-six persons: Edward Rowen, Philadelphia, Pa.; Miss Emily H. Rowen, Philadephia, Pa.; Miss Clarissa Hall, Philadelphia, Pa.; Sylvanus W. Fisk, Morganville, N.Y.; Elisa Roberts, Moorestown, N.J.; Mrs. Roberts, Moorestown, N.J.; D. H. Beecher, Philadelphia, Pa.; Miss E. L. Beecher, Philadelphia, Pa.; Mattison Koons, Camden, N.J.; Mrs. Koons, Camden, N.J.; Miss Koons, Camden, N.J.; Mrs. Dr. Jane E. Hunter, New York city; Mrs. C. R. Lockwood, New York city; Ethan Rogers, Asbury Park, N.J.; Mrs. Rogers, Asbury Park, N.J.; Andrew Findlay, New York city; W. E. Nichols, East Haddam, Ct.; Miss Mary C. Nichols, East Haddam, Ct.; Mrs. E. W. Chaffee, Moodus, Ct.; J. G. Tunny, Edinburgh; W. J. Robinson, Moncton, N.B.; Mrs. Robinson, Moncton, N.B.; Philip J. Ritter, Philadelphia, Pa.; Mrs. Ritter, Philadelphia, Pa.; Charles F. Ritter, Philadelphia, Pa.; William H. Ritter, Philadelphia, Pa.; Charles Sweron, Frenchville, Me.; Chr. Rine, Lancaster, Pa.; Mrs. Rine, Lancaster, Pa.; M. Anker Heigaard, New Britain, Ct.; Benj. Haigh, Bradford, England; A. Wilt, Philadelphia, Pa.; Mrs. Wilt, Philadelphia, Pa.; Miss Mary F. Wilt, Philadelphia, Pa.; Alexander Strachan, Mrs. Strachan, Robert Montgomery, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:Liverpool, England; R. M. Brown, Brooklyn, N.Y.; W. H. Sayre, Jr., Bethlehem, Pa.; W. H. Tantum, Trenton, N.J.; Joseph Stokes, Trenton, N.J.; David Taylor, Trenton, N.J.; Rev. R. S. Howland, D.D., New York; Rev. S. H. Weston, D.D., New York; F. G. Mariage, England; Thomas C. Else, Philadelphia, Pa.; Mrs. Else, Philadelphia, Pa.; Dr. A. H. Halberstadt, Pottsville, Pa.; Rev. Daniel C. Weston, D.D., New York; James Moore, Raleigh, N.C.; J. T. Monroe, Philadelphia, Pa.; Mrs. Monroe, Philadelphia, Pa.; Frank H. Hurd, Medina, N.Y.; Edward Davey, Medina, N.Y.; William Goulding, Solomon Mead, Greenwich, Ct.; S. C. Mead, Greenwich, Ct.; E. B. Woodhead, Huddersfield, England; Miss Woodhead, Huddersfield, England.  The whole expense for each member for the entire trip, including conveyance, hotel charges, as described in the itinerary, is $500.  The distance to be traveled is nearly 9,000 miles.  We took a parlor car from Jersey City, on the Pennsylvania Railroad.  Only eighteen persons of the party started from this point.  The balance of the party is to join us at different places between this and Washington.  As the train speeds its way through New Jersey we find vegetation much farther advanced than in Greenwich.  Trees are putting on their foliage and cherry trees are in blossom.  The Pennsylvania Railroad may be considered as an excelsior road, for the roadbed is very straight and smooth, and the cars frequently run sixty miles an hour.  This part of New Jersey is very level.  The fences are built of posts and rails, some in the old style of worm-rail, some of boards, some of hedges, but I saw none built of stone.  Many teams were busy plowing, but all were horse-teams.  The landscape between New York and Philadelphia is much the same.  Wilmington and Havre de Grace are cities of considerable importance.  Outside a car factory in Wilmington we saw several new cars standing, with the name of the New York and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 4th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>I was refreshed by a good night's rest, and on awakening was greeted by a pleasant morning.  I anticipated a great deal of pleasure in revisiting the chief places of interest in the capital of our nation, having visited it previous to this once only, and that some twenty-six years ago.  The first place that we saw was the Patent Office.  From this we went to the Capitol, where we went into the Senate Chamber and that of the House of Representatives.  The floor under the dome of the rotunda is made of marble slabs, two of which, near the centre and about sixteen feet apart, are so situated that if two persons stand, one upon each slab, and converse together, a very singular echo may be heard.  After looking at the paintings and statuary which adorned the room, we ascended to a balcony near the top of the dome, between three and four hundred steps from the base of the building.  The view from this balcony is very extensive and includes the city and surrounding country, together with the Potomac River.  Some nine or ten avenues diverge from the Capitol into all parts of the city, like the spokes of a wheel.  While viewing the city from this place we met with a Mr. C. Mayo of New York, whom we found to be a very agreeable companion for the remainder of the day.  From here we had rather a warm walk to the White House, the thermometer being over 70 degrees.  Entering at the front door we took seats in the East Room <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:to rest while we viewed the likenesses of distinguished men and the six large mirrors and the three magnificent chandeliers suspended from the lofty ceiling.  After having refreshed ourselves with a drink of ice water we waited a short time at the suggestion of the person in charge of the house, and then were conducted first into the Blue Room, then into the Green Room, then to the Red Room, three rich and beautifully furnished private parlors.  From thence we went into a room in which were beautiful plants, likenesses, etc.  From the White House we walked down in the direction of the Washington Monument, which was commenced about thirty years ago.  Passing through the beautiful grounds of the Capitol, we reached the lofty marble and granite shaft, now 340 feet high, which is still being carried up to its ultimate height, and is to be 555 feet. Immense quantities of large marble blocks lie about the monument, ready to be hoisted to their lofty positions.  From the monument we went to the establishment of the Government for making internal revenue stamps, greenbacks and bills for national banks.  These are all completed here for use.  They go through a great many hands in the process of making.  Twelve hundred persons, male and female, are employed in the building.  They all appeared to be very intently engaged in their work.  We next visited the Government Agricultural Museum, which holds a place of the first importance among our national institutions.  We next visited the Smithsonian Institute.  The city of Washington has been greatly improved and beautified since the War of the Rebellion.  Some of our European friends of the party remarked that it could not be equaled by any city except Paris.  From this place we made our way back to the hotel and took our dinner and made preparations to leave the city on the Chesapeake &amp; Ohio Railroad.  As I entered the depot I saw a metal star sunk in the floor, which marks the spot where President Garfield stood when he was shot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 5th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>When the day dawned upon us we found ourselves among the mountains of West Virginia.  Our road runs through a valley and by the side of a river, with mountains on either side, some of which rise to a considerable height and are of divers shapes.  Occasionally a gorge runs into them.  The scenery is grand.  The bed of the river is stony and the water is much disturbed by its rapid descent among and over the rocks.  There is great similarity in this scenery for many, many miles.  While the general course is the same, there are curvings and windings in the river, and here and there were huts or small habitations at the base of the mountains, built upon the river's edge, where a little space could be found, although it be very small.  But sometimes cultivation is extended up the side of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:mountain to the extent of perhaps an acre or more of ground, every inch of which seemed to be utilized by these simple dwellers.  The shore, in places, is lined with driftwood, brought down by Spring freshets.  We have now advanced far down the valley, where it widens somewhat, and have come to a place called Kanahwa Falls, West Virginia, at which place we breakfasted at a hotel about 9 o'clock.  Soon after we took the cars and sped down the valley, where we saw increasing signs of improvement in many respects.  We saw how coal was brought out of the mines.  About one-third up the side of the mountain, some two or three hundred feet above the river, was an opening like a door, from which cars of coal rolled out every two or three minutes.  The car ran rapidly down a track on the side of the mountain until it reached a screen, on which it was dumped, and from which it ran into a spout which conveyed it into a car standing upon a switch ready to receive it.  At the same time the loaded car descended an empty car was drawn up.  How far into the bowels of the mountain the miners were at work did not appear, but one thing was certain, it was brought out very rapidly and in great quantities.  Scows and flat boats were also receiving it in the same way at various other places on the river.  This work of mining and transporting the coal was carried on at different places along the railroad for many miles, even after we passed into the State of Kentucky.  We saw many log houses in this part of Kentucky.  They had no glass windows, and the chimneys were built outside at one end.  They were only one story in height and small in size.  The occupants seemed to be contented and happy, with healthy-looking children about them.  In the mountains of West Virginia and Kentucky the railroad ran through numerous tunnels.  As we pass on we see evident signs of a richer soil, with large oak trees in the forests.  We are now in what is called the Blue Grass Section of the State of Kentucky.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 6th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The next morning, being the Sabbath, we attended a Baptist Church and listened to a good sermon, delivered quite rapidly, but with much earnestness.  In the afternoon we walked down to the Ohio River, where we observed a ferry plying between Jefferson, on the Indiana shore, and this place.  The height to which the Ohio River rose last Spring was pointed out to us, and it now seems almost incredible that such a height could have been reached.  Great damage was caused by the freshets.  Dust and smoke, caused by the burning of soft coal, are disadvantages to the South and West generally.  They not only affect the air, but give to buildings, sidewalks and almost everything that they come in contact with a dark, dingy and dirty appearance.</P>
182.sgm:<P>The hotel, the Galt House, at which we are stopping, is one of the finest in this city, and perhaps can hardly be equaled in all the South.  It was built in 1869 at a reputed cost of $1,500,000.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Monday, May 7th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the morning we visited one of the markets, and I bought a cane for myself and one for Cristy.  At 12.45 p.m. we left our hotel in three carryalls, with four horses each, for the Louisville &amp; Nashville Railroad Depot, to visit the Mammoth Cave.  It was a genial and jolly party.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Tuesday, May 8th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Arose refreshed.  After breakfast we took a stage, at about 8 a.m., and reached Cave City at 10 a.m.  We took the cars for Louisville at 10.45 and arrived there at 3 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Wednesday, May 9th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>This morning we found ourselves in Illinois, where large fields of wheat were growing, and equally large tracts were being plowed and planted with corn.  We frequently passed through flourishing villages, and finally reached St. Louis about 8 a.m., having crossed the Mississippi River upon the great iron bridge and passed through a tunnel under the city to the depot.  We found stages and carryalls ready, as usual, to convey us to our hotel, the Laclede.</P>
182.sgm:<P>After breakfast we visited the bridge, paying five cents toll for each pedestrian.  On our return we visited the City Hall, or Courthouse.  We went nearly to the top of the dome, from which a good view of the city may be had, but on account of the hazy and smoky atmosphere of that day, the view was not as distinct as it otherwise would have been.  Still, we had quite a good view of the city.</P>
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182.sgm:<P>The smoke of the city makes everything outdoors somewhat the color of chocolate.  Painting the buildings is said to be useless as far as looks are concerned, for the smoke soon discolors them.  The weather to-day in St. Louis is very warm, the thermometer standing about 86.  We left at 9 p.m. for Kansas City, upon the Chicago &amp; Alton road.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Thursday, May 10th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The morning's light found us near the middle of the State of Missouri.  This section of the country is not remarkably good, but as we proceed on our journey it improves until we pass the Missouri River, where it is very good, surpassing any through which we have yet passed.  Peach trees were large and of thrifty appearance.  Cribs the size of ordinary houses were filled with corn in the ear; herds of cattle, noble and fine, were grazing in the fields; groups of horses, colts and pigs were frequently seen in great numbers.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Immense mounds of straw, left from former years' threshing, were seen in the fields.  Illinois is a good farming State, but Missouri appears to be better.  Of the towns that we pass through, Sterling and Marshall appeared to be most prominent.  For the first time a dining car was attached to our train, and we were served with breakfast while the train continued on its way.  It stopped at a place called Odessa for water, which is quite a large village.  Here, as in many other places in this region, many buildings are in process of construction.  We are now about twenty miles from Kansas City, and the train is running with great speed.  We reached Kansas City about 8 o'clock a.m.  This city is quite hilly, and our time did not allow us to see much of it.  I doubt if many other cities exceed this as a railroad centre.  Numerous trains were arriving and departing and throngs of people were changing cars.  As we proceed westward the atmosphere has become much cooler.  We left Kansas City between 9 and 10 and crossed the line into the State of Kansas, first changing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>Here and there we saw families residing in wagons and tents until they could erect more substantial habitations.  The road runs near the Kansas River, of which we had an occasional view.  This is a river of considerable size, is navigable for vessels of light draft for a considerable distance and empties into the Missouri River near Kansas City.  The soil in this State is very good and the surface is more diversified by hills than that of most of the prairie States.  This State, for the length of time of its settlement, appears to have made greater advance in improvements and education than any other State of the Union.  Passing on we reached Lawrence, a large and growing place.  From there we went on to Topeka, the capital of the State.  The State House is situated upon an elevation to the right of our road.  Before our train fairly came to a full stop we saw a man ringing a bell, summoning us to dinner, to which we did ample justice.  From this place we soon reached an extensive region which is underlaid with a vein of coal at the depth of about thirty feet from the surface, in quantities probably sufficient to last for centuries.  In the distance of ten to twenty miles we saw many scores of openings from which they were hoisting out coal and loading cars.  Thus, here two crops are obtained, one from a rich soil upon the surface and the other from a vein of coal some twenty feet in thickness and about the same distance below the surface.  Mining and agriculture both flourish here.  We next reached Osage City.  The extent of territory and resources of the West are almost beyond comprehension.  It seems to me if the soil and capabilities of the whole United States and its Territories were utilized to their fullest extent it might possibly sustain the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>In this section there are also extensive stone quarries, which are of excellent quality and of great utility.  The stone is carried to different parts of the State in great quantities for every purpose for which stone is required.  There are also extensive marble quarries in the section near Strong City.  There are also lime quarries, at which lime was being burned.  Further on we passed through Florence, and as we advanced on our way we observed many more quarries great extent and value being worked.  While in the midst of a rich and fine agricultural country the shades of night came over us and shut it out from our view.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Friday, May 11.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>I awoke to look out upon a vast plain stretching in every direction as far as the eye could reach, relieved only by vast herds of cattle.  Many in these herds were poor in flesh, owing to the Winter which had just passed, and occasionally a carcass was seen.  Many calves and colts were among these herds.  As the train approached they would run from it, and then, as if amazed, turn and look at it.  We occasionally saw prairie dogs, fleeing to their habitations in the earth.  Very few birds of any kind are ever seen, as there are few or no trees.  Animals here live both Summer and Winter upon a short grass called buffalo grass, which grows upon these plains, and, although short, is said to be very nutritious.</P>
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182.sgm:<P>We occasionally saw small huts, which are sometimes occupied by cowboys.  At this moment I hear a sharp blow of the whistle, and, upon looking out, see cattle fleeing from us, some of which seem to enjoy the sport while others look at us as if amazed.  Our route now is in sight of the Arkansas River, a crooked, sluggish stream.  The present and chief use of this vast plain over which we have just passed is to furnish flesh for the world; but it is said when the land is irrigated and cultivated it produces large crops.  This vast plain impresses one with the immensity and greatness of the works of the Creator.</P>
182.sgm:<P>As we pass from this plain into a more diversified country, we notice in the distance to the right quite a number of large buildings, which we find belong to the Government, and have been used in the past as a post of defense against hostile Indians.  We took breakfast at a place called La Junta, which is near the 36th degree of latitude and 4,000 feet above the level of the sea.  The climate of this place is good for pulmonary complaints.  In conversation with the man who claimed to be the founder of this place, he said that when the wind blew with sufficient force to blow things over in other places it would not do it here on account of the lightness of the atmosphere.  In regard to the lightning, he said it might play around you and you would feel it, but it would not hurt you, and never struck anything.  Before leaving the plains we saw in the distance a drove of buffalo playing and kicking up the dust.  Cottonwood trees grow very generally along the banks of the Arkansas River.  Pike's Peak now appears in view.  We have now reached a point where the land is irrigated and cultivated to some extent and the soil looks rich and fertile.  Only water is wanted here to raise good crops.  We have now reached a region where sage grass prevails.  This grows in bunches about two feet in height.  Dugouts seem to be common as residences.  We arrived at Pueblo, which is something of a railroad place, about 11 a.m., where we took dinner.</P>
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182.sgm:<P>The Denver Iron and Steel Company's Works, which we visited, are at this place.  These works are very extensive.  We saw the process by which crude iron ore is taken as it comes from the mines, and made into steel rails for railroads, ready for use.  These rails are thirty feet in length.  The works turn out 100 tons of rails per day.  A branch of their business is making nails, the process of which was new and interesting to us.</P>
182.sgm:<P>We left Pueblo for Manitou, fifty miles distant.  We passed through a region not very much improved.  On our way we saw prairie dogs in greater numbers than we had as yet seen.  Our train stopped a little while, and some of our party got out and gave chase after the prairie dogs, but were unable to catch them.  The dogs were too smart, and their holes in the ground furnished safe retreats.</P>
182.sgm:<P>The only place of much importance that we passed through was Colorado Springs, which is some eight miles from Manitou.  We reached Manitou about 5 p.m., and put up at the Manitou House.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Saturday, May 12th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Manitou is much sought by invalids on account of its healthful atmosphere and the excellency of its mineral springs.  It has several hotels and a number of churches.  From this place, which is situated in a gorge in the mountains and at their base, parties go upon mules or horses to visit Pike's Peak.  The expense of the trip, including guide, conveyance by horse or mule, and toll, is $6.  It takes about nine hours to make this trip.  It is said that some invalids who came here years ago and still remain, are now perfectly well and healthy.  We visited the wonderful Garden of the Gods.  Wonderful on account of the shape, height and colors of single rocks.  It took its name from the fact that the Indians used to resort here to worship these remarkable formations.  From here we went to the Uta Pass, a place well worth visiting.  Being overtaken by rain, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sunday, May 13th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>This being the only chance for visiting Pike's Peak, and a clergyman of our party remarking that one could worship God as well there as anywhere, nine of our party, Cristy among the number, set out upon mules or horses to visit it.  They returned about 5 o'clock p.m.  The depth of the snow and a very high wind prevented them from reaching a higher altitude than the timber line.  Cristy brought back with him several smoky topaz stones which he found upon the mountain.  There are three churches in the village--Methodist, Episcopal and Congregational.  I attended services at the Congregational.  Bears are said to come to the outskirts of this village at night for something to eat.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Monday, May 14th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We left Manitou by a special train at 8.30 a.m. for Denver, a distance of seventy-five miles.  The country here appears to be much better for agriculture and under better cultivation, with better fences, buildings and improvements than any we have passed through in Colorado.</P>
182.sgm:<P>We arrived at Denver at 12.30 and found carriages waiting to take us to the St. James Hotel.  After dinner I went out with Cristy, and on returning to our hotel we found letters from home, the first which we have received since we left.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Tuesday, May 15th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>As usual, I rose early and wrote home to mother and Everett.</P>
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182.sgm:<P>After breakfast I met a man engaged in cattle raising in this State.  He said that the cattle business had been very profitable and is growing more so; that very little capital is required, the chief expense being to handle the cattle, and that the demand for cattle is greater than the supply can meet.</P>
182.sgm:<P>The wealth and pecuniary resources of Colorado appear to be derived very largely from this source and from the mining business.  We visited the reading room of the Young Men's Christian Association, but were disappointed in not finding any newspaper from New York or the Eastern States.  We also visited the branch mint of the United States.  We saw the process by which the gold was separated from the alloy and run into gold bars in different sizes, according to the sizes of the deposits.  After this a small piece is cut off each end, which are assayed and the true value of the metal is determined, after which it is bought by the Government.</P>
182.sgm:<P>During the course of an hour, while we were at the mint, they refined five deposits, varying from $150 to over $1,200 in value.  About $1,500,000 worth is assayed annually.  We were told that it was the most prefect and complete mint in all its departments in the world.  In the evening I went with Cristy to the Opera House, which is claimed to be one of the finest in the world, to see which was the chief inducement for me to go.  The play was called "Cheek."  The music was good and attendance fair.  Upon the drop curtain was the representation of some ancient castle in ruins.  Where the floor ought to have been there was a pool of water, while in the background the mountains tower as firm and stable as ever.  Underneath was inscribed this quotation from Kingsley:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"So fleet the works of men back to the earth again.<LB>Ancient and holy things fade like a dream."</HI>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Wednesday, May 16th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>This morning we clubbed together with three others of our party, hired a carriage and took a ride for three hours.  We visited the Argo Smelting Works, which are very extensive and situated about two miles from the city.  Here large quantities of crude silver ore are brought on cars from different mines.  The quality of the ore varies largely in value.</P>
182.sgm:<P>We rode through North Denver and passed the residence of Brick Pomeroy, which is situated upon elevated ground upon the outskirts of the city.  We saw men at work sinking artesian wells.  These wells are now being sunk in different parts of the city.</P>
182.sgm:<P>The streets in this city are made from the natural earth only, are very fine to drive upon and are said to be always in the same condition.  This city is lighted by electric lights, which are placed in towers about 150 feet high and located upon elevated ground upon the outskirts of the city.  There are about six of these towers, with six lights on each.  They are made of iron.  In this way the city is lighted, superseding the necessity of street lamps.  We crossed the Platte River twice and passed to elevated ground in the east part of the city, where the finest residences are located.  Here the Governor, the judges of the courts, the Mayor of the city and other noted personages reside.  The cemetery, which is about three miles out and which is considered very beautiful, we did not visit.  The public schoolhouses, as, indeed, all the public buildings, are very fine and substantial.</P>
182.sgm:<P>We got back to the hotel about 12 o'clock.  In the afternoon we visited the County Courthouse, which I believe is one of the finest in the United States, and in the building of which it is said there was no fraud or peculation and that the money expended was the most honestly used of any in the United States for similar purposes.  After we returned we packed our trunk and left at 8 p.m. for La Veta.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Persons without suspecting are sometimes interviewed by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>"SEEING THE WEST.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"Arrival of the Continental Excursion Party at St. Louis--Chat with Some of Them as to Whence They Came and What They Saw.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"The Continental Excursion Party, under the guidance of Cook &amp; Son, arrived yesterday at the Laclede.  The party passed through on a special train, being provided with three sleepers, so that each one has a double berth.  They are much pleased thus far with the trip, and unite in saying that Mr. Cook is carrying out his agreement in providing the best railroad and hotel accommodations to be obtained on the route.  The party left New York on the third of May, but Washington was really the starting point, where they all united.  They stopped over on Sunday at Louisville, and on Monday they made a long trip to the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, having to ride nine miles from Cave City, after leaving the train, over bowlders and stones which shook them up considerably.  They were unable to proceed to the river which runs through the cave, on account of the water being in flood.  The party spent five hours in exploring the cave.  They were disappointed, but found some compensation in visiting the Star Chamber, which is truly worth going to see.  A day was spent in this city in taking a view of the bridge, the steamers along the wharf, etc.  Some paid a visit to the elevators, while others went out to Shaw's Garden, each one following his own bent in sightseeing.  The ladies of the party, who are arch, lively and good looking, are not afraid to go about and see what is to be seen.  There are twenty Europeans in the party, embracing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:English, Scotch, Irish, Danes, Swiss and Germans, the others being Americans of the different States.  A Republican reporter met a group resting at the Laclede, after a jaunt about the city.  There were a Scotchman, an Englishman, a Yankee and a Dane, the latter being master of five languages.  The Yankee, Mr. Mead, was a Connecticut man, having been born in Greenwich and residing there still.  He remarked that Put's Hill is at one end of the town.  It was down this hill that Gen. Putnam, in the Revolutionary War, plunged on horseback when chased by a squad of British light horse, who came very near capturing the old hero at his headquarters.  Mr. Mead said he recollected the old church, when it was still standing on the hill, and one side of it still showed the marks of British bullets.  Greenwich is on the extreme southwest corner of the State, on Long Island Sound, and adjoins Westchester, New York.  It was included in what was known as the neutral ground when the British occupied New York, and raids were so frequent in the place by the British Tories and refugees, who carried off everything, that the patriots had to flee to Danbury and other neighboring towns for refuge.  In the War of 1812 Mr. Mead was old enough to remember when a supposed British expedition landed at the point and the inhabitants fled in alarm, until they found out it was a friendly force of Americans, then the population returned to their homes very much rejoiced.  Greenwich is one of the oldest towns in the State, having been settled 250 years ago, yet there are towns in the West only a few years old that have far outstripped it in population, wealth and enterprise.  Mr. Mead stated that among the noted men who resided at Greenwich was the late Mr. Tweed, who expended money very freely.  He purchased ground, paying whatever was asked for it, and expended in buildings and other ways over $300,000, which were sold a few years ago for about $50,000.  The Connecticut gentleman remarked that St. Louis <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>"The route is rough and stony in some places, but it was found that the fatigue was not greater than if they had walked the same distance upon the upper surface.  The party left last night for Kansas City, and to-morrow they will take a run down to Manitou Springs, where they will spend Saturday and Sunday.  They then go to Denver, where they pass Tuesday, and next to Santa Fe, where they will stop over one day.  Taking the Southern Pacific route, they go direct to California, resting four days at Los Angeles, and three days will be spent in visiting the Yosemite Valley, Mariposa and big trees.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Thursday, May 17th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We arrived at La Veta at 7 a.m.  Having traveled during the night into a mountainous region, we found ourselves in a much cooler atmosphere, the altitude being about 7,500 feet.  It was so cold that fires were necessary in the cars.  The cars ran slow much of the time, on account of the heavy grade, some of it being about 240 feet to a mile, with many short curves, one of which is said to be the shortest in the world, which is thirty degrees.  The cars were drawn by two engines, and the highest altitude reached was said to be 12,000 feet, at which point the cars stopped, and the boys and girls got out and went to snowballing.  From this point on a clear day, it is said that objects 200 miles distant can be seen, but we are in the clouds and in the midst of a heavy snowstorm, while it is probably pleasant and the sun shining in lower altitudes.  I see smoke coming from the chimneys of the log cabins, and men standing in their doorways, out of the storm, looking at us as we pass.  In this high altitude it is said that it snows every month in the year.  In some of the gorges a high board fence is built upon the side of the track to prevent the snow from drifting upon it.</P>
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182.sgm:<P>There is considerable timber in these mountains, mostly pine.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Returning from the Toltec Gorge, the extent of our journey in the mountains, we passed through San Luis Valley, 70 miles by 250 miles.  This valley is said to be 8,000 feet above the level of the sea.  We struck the Rio Grande River, which rises in the mountains in Colorado.  We saw a fine herd of horses and cattle.  This immense plain is surrounded by large mountains, with snow-covered tops.  The windings and twistings among the mountains are grand in scenery, the peaks and valleys, hundreds if not thousands of feet in height, almost perpendicular, and the railroad running upon the verges of them, form scenery which is perfectly grand and wonderful.  While we were at the Toltec Gorge and near one of the tunnels, of which there are five or six, which we passed through during the day, we saw a very fine granite monument erected as a memorial to James A. Garfield, at a celebration held here in the Spring of 1882, by the ticket agents and employees of the railroads in the United States.  The scenery of this day is worth the cost of the whole trip.  On our return to La Veta we took supper on the way at Almosa.  We thus spent this day in traveling among the mountains, which was not a part of the direct route.</P>
182.sgm:<P>We left Almosa at 8 o'clock p.m., and found ourselves next morning, which was beautiful and clear, at El Mora, after a whole night's run.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Friday, May 18th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We passed through Trinidad, and, reaching Baton, we took breakfast there.  Baton is quite a village and something of a railroad centre.  From Los Vegas we took a branch road six or seven miles, to Hot Springs, which we reached about 1 p.m.  The hotel and grounds are first-class.  They are both extensive and well managed, for the comfort and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Saturday, May 19th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>I enjoyed a good night's rest, having spent the two previous nights on the cars.  The country in and about Las Vegas is being settled rapidly, but in the outskirts of the villages many of the poor live in huts which in the East would not be considered fit for domestic animals.  The name of the hotel at Hot Springs is Montezuma.  We passed through a number of minor places, such as Bernal, Peas, Fulton, Clorita and Lamy.  At one of these places there is a church which is said to be 430 years old.  We took a branch road to Santa Fe and arrived there about 2 p.m. and put up at the Palace Hotel.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Santa Fe is the most curious city in the United States.  After dinner we started out to see the city.  This city is said to be the oldest town in the United States, and to contain the oldest church.  It was settled by a former race, before the Spaniards took it.  The buildings, which are mostly one story in height, are built of adobe or mud.  Those of the first settlers are said to still exist, although they look very ancient and very much dilapidated, but they are still inhabited by a degraded-looking people.  Some of our party made the acquaintance of the Methodist missionary stationed at this place, to whom we are under much obligation for kindly piloting us to the various places of interest in the city.  He first took us to the jail, then to his neat little adobe house and chapel, then to a museum, where Indian curiosities were on exhibition, at which place I observed a stone axe <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>The Governor's palace is a large, long, one-story adobe building, coated white, with a broad veranda running the whole length.  This building is said to have been occupied by all the Spanish Governors, from the Conquest by Spain to the present time.  Its rooms are comfortable and pleasant.  The Governor received us very courteously, and, taking us into his parlor, made a speech to us, in which he spoke of the greatness in extent and resources of this nation, and said, in the course of his remarks, that whenever the Anglo-Saxon race wanted the world they could take it.  The people here, and their surroundings, manners and customs are the same as were their ancestors, generations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sunday, May 20th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>I attended church in the morning at a Presbyterian chapel, while some of the party attended Church at the old adobe Catholic Cathedral, said to be the oldest church in America, and others went to hear Dr. Weston, one of our party, preach at the Episcopal Church.  I spent the rest of the day quietly, wrote a letter home and retired early.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Monday, May 21st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>At 8 a.m. we returned from Santa Fe on a branch line back to the main road, and proceeded on our way through New Mexico.  Saw on the plains, for the first time, some antelope.  They are very beautiful animals and swift at running.  As we proceed on our way we pass several river beds, which are now dry.  We saw breakwaters being built by the railroad company on the banks of the rivers to prevent their tracks being washed away in times of freshets.  The mode of constructing them is by driving two rows of piles a few feet apart and filling in with stones the place between them and the bank.  We stopped at a place called Wallace for lunch, at the depot of which place I saw a large company of Indians, who appeared to be there for the purpose of seeing the whites, and for receiving presents from them.  They were very poorly clothed and had no covering for the head except their long, straight, thick, black hair.  As we passed on along the Rio Grand River we saw quite a village of Indians, the houses of which were built of adobe and the grounds about them cultivated, indicating an approach to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>We reached a large village called Albuquerque.  As we pass on in this valley we see vast herds of cattle, horses, mules, sheep and goats, the like of which for numbers we have not seen before on our trip.  We also saw vineyards and more Indian villages.  We stopped at Los Lunas, and at a place called the Valley of Death, at which place the earth has the appearance of having passed through the heat of intense fires, and being thrown up in small waves or ridges, and the stones appear like the cinders which are thrown out from a furnace.  This barren waste continues for seventy miles, where there is no vegetation and no water unless transported there.  We stopped at a place called Rincon, fifty-two miles from Deming.  A small bush grows here called the mosquite wood, the roots of which are used for fuel and the pods for food.  For the first time for a long distance we begin to see some few birds.  We reached Deming about 7 p.m., where we took supper.  The junction of the Santa Fe and Southern Pacific is at this place, which is a place of some importance.  We left at 8 p.m. on a splendid moonlight night, but saw little of the country until we reached Tucson, Arizona Territory, the next morning, 220 miles distant.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Tuesday, May 22d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We spent the day at Tucson.  As they were constructing some adobe buildings, I had the curiosity to see them make the adobe and carry up the walls of their buildings with it.  The earth is first mixed to a proper consistency, with short pieces of straw intermixed; then it is shaped in a mold and turned out and dried in the sun.  The process is much the same as that of making bricks.</P>
182.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>After they are sufficiently dried they are ready for use.  The same material is used as mortar to lay them in.  All classes here seem to construct their houses to some extent of this material, which appears to be well adapted to last in this climate, and probably will never go entirely out of use.  Insead of making roofs of this material, as formerly, they are now using shingles.  This is a very old place and contains a population of 10,000.  A considerable portion of the inhabitants is from the North, who are rapidly increasing and bringing with them Northern improvements, such as gas and water.  I noticed on the streets good carriages with fine horses.</P>
182.sgm:<P>We stopped at the Porter Hotel, and the thermometer, while we were there, ranged from 85 to 90 degrees.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Wednesday, May 23d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We left Tucson in the evening of May 22 for Los Angeles, one of our chief stopping places.</P>
182.sgm:<P>After a run of several hundred miles through the night we reached the Western portion of Arizona.  Here, in the early morning, we saw beds upon the housetops and in the yards, apparently just vacated.  The inhabitants which we saw here were chiefly Indians or Mexicans.  We took breakfast at a Yuma Hotel, on the banks of the Rio Colorado River, which is the dividing line between Arizona and California.  The hotel at which we stopped was new and commodious and belongs to the Southern Pacific Railroad Company.  The table was loaded with all the substantials and delicacies of the season in that part of the country.  This place is near the Mexican line.  Soon after entering the cars, a boy passed through with San Francisco and Los Angeles papers for sale.  The river, which we crossed, was of considerable size, with a very swift current.  After crossing this river into California we commenced running in a great sandy desert.  This desert is from twelve to fifty miles in width and 185 in length.  The sand in some parts drifts like waves of the sea, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>This desert is thought to have been once a part of the ocean.  Some portions are 260 feet below the level of the sea.  The deepest hollows contain rock salt of the finest quality.  It is supposed that a bar was formed which cut this off from the ocean, and gradually the water evaporated from it until it became dry.  Before the railroad was constructed it was suggested by some that a channel be cut into this from the ocean, thus making it again part of the ocean in the interests of commerce.  We stopped at a telegraph station and found the operator to be a woman.  We saw distinctly at a short distance what appeared to be a beautiful lake of water, but there was no water there.  The deception was perfect.  It was simply a mirage.  We took dinner at a hotel at Indio, in the yard of which place we saw an Indian family, parents and three children, the youngest of whom, a year or two old, in its mother's arms, interested our party considerably in grasping pieces of money handed to it and very cunningly handing them to its mother.  The tribe to which they belong was said to live a short distance from this place, and the chief is 130 years old, but was very feeble.  At times when the wind blows hard the sand is nearly blinding, but we were greatly favored, having only a light breeze, just sufficient to fan us.  12 m.  While the thermometer is 100 degrees here we plainly see snow upon the mountains.  As we run up out of the desert verdure and vegetation begin to appear, which gradually increase.  Beautiful flowers begin to make their appearance.  The change from the parched sand of the desert to the beautiful green fields is very exhilarating and refreshing and led some of our party to burst out into singing as we came into this beautiful land of fruit and flowers.  We now begin to meet with pleasant-looking homes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>Large herds of cattle and other animals are feeding in some of the fields, while in other fields men are making and drawing hay, and in some others harvesting various grains.  Orchards of fruit trees look thrifty.  We stopped at the City of Colon for a few minutes.  While our trip thus far has been very interesting, it is now becoming more so.  We frequently pass extensive vineyards and fields of Indian corn, and as we near Los Angeles we begin to see fine residences and groves of orange trees, which are laden with tempting yellow fruit.  As we were being conveyed to the Pico House a band was playing upon the balcony of the hotel.  The Pico House was named after a Mexican General who owned the property, the descendants of whom still own it.  Owing to the large number of guests at the hotel, all of our party could not be accommodated there, so we were assigned a room in another house upon a hill, where we found very good and pleasant accommodations.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Thursday, May 24th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We were greeted by a pleasant morning after a good night's rest.  We went down the hill to breakfast, after which several of us engaged a carriage to drive us to places of interest about the city, paying $1 apiece.  We visited several fine residences, beautifully laid out, about which were orange orchards and vineyards.  The business of raising oranges and making wine is probably carried on more extensively in this part of the State than in any other.  Likewise lemons are raised to some extent.  Large quantities of oranges were lying on the ground in piles, as well as upon the trees.  The best orchards and vineyards are valued at $1,000 an acre, and real estate has recently advanced very materially in value.  Fig trees flourish here, but bananas can hardly be brought to maturity.  Some of these places are remarkably beautiful, being adorned with fruit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>The Jesuits called this city Los Angeles, meaning the city of the angels, because the people were so easily influenced for good.  Although they have no rain here for the most part of the year and have to depend largely upon irrigation, still there is a mist which comes from the Pacific during the night which is doubtless very beneficial to vegetation.  One of the finest places which we visited belonged to Mr. Hollenbrech, and was called "Brooklyn Heights."  We saw large cactus trees.  Some grow in this region from fifty to eighty feet in height.  The climate near the Pacific coast may not be as desirable as in the interior, on account of the greater dampness and lower altitude.  Altitude has much more influence upon the atmosphere, both in regard to temperature and to lightness, than latitude.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Friday, May 25th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Thirteen of our party left the hotel this morning to visit Sierra Madre Villa, sixteen miles distant, and situated at the foot of the mountains.  Much of the way we passed through orchard groves and vineyards, covering hundreds of acres.  We reached the villa about 11.30 and took dinner about 12.  This villa is a beautiful place and is a favorite resort for visitors.  I met at this place Mr. Decker of the firm Decker, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Saturday, May 26th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>I wrote a letter home to Abie.  I bought six stereoscopic views.  We frequently meet with Chinamen about the streets, who appear to be orderly and quiet.  They seem to be very faithful and intent upon whatever they are employed about.  We left the hotel at 5.30 o'clock for the Yosemite Valley by way of Madera or Merced, on the Southern Pacific Railroad.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sunday, May 27th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Seven o'clock in the morning found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Monday, May 28th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>I awoke in the morning to look upon a pleasant opening of several acres in the wilderness, in the centre of which was a fine, commodious and comfortable hotel, at which we stopped.  The name of the hotel is Clark's.  We left this place in the stages and entered the wilderness about 7 o'clock for a journey of thirty miles to the valley.  On our way we saw two wild deer going up from a stream of water.  A rattlesnake, whose rattles showed it to be eight years old, was killed.  While coming down into the valley we saw the Cascade Falls, the Ribbon Falls, the Tube Falls, the Bridal Veil Falls, the Yosemite Falls, besides El Capitan, Three Brothers, Cathedral Dome, Cloud's Rest, Half Dome, Sentinel Dome.  These vary from three to six thousand feet in height.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Tuesday, May 29th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went with a party to visit Nevada Falls.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Wednesday, May 30th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The heights of the different falls are as follows:</P>
182.sgm:<P>Bridal Veil, 940 feet; Nevada, 605 feet; Vernal, 343 feet; Yosemite, 2,550 feet; Sentinel, 3,270 feet.</P>
182.sgm:<P>The names and heights of the mountains which surround the valley are as follows:</P>
182.sgm:<P>El Capitan, 3,330 feet; Cathedral, 2,600 feet; Three Brothers, 4,000 feet; North Dome, 3,700 feet; South Hali Dome, 5,000 feet; Round Tower, 2,400 feet; Cap of Liberty, 3,000 feet; Cloud's Rest, 6,000 feet; Sentinel Dome, 4,000 feet; Glacier Point, 3,100 feet.  Although these are the heights which are given, yet no one would think from their appearance that they are so high.  Distances, in all these high altitudes, are very deceptive, whether horizontal or vertical.  Cristy, with some others, walked to Mirror Lake this morning, a distance of about three miles up the valley, in which the mountains, about sunrise, are reflected as in a mirror.  These mountains are one vast rock of granite, their sides being perpendicular and many of them domed.  This being Decoration Day, a flag was flying on Glacier Point.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Thursday, May 31ST.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>This morning we left the grand and awe-inspiring valley, in which the power and grandeur of the Creator are so wonderfully manifested, in view of which we are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Friday, June 1ST.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We left Clark's at 6 a.m. for Madera.  We changed horses at Bufford Station.  The road has been much improved by being worked since we went over it a few days ago.  We saw many natural beds of beautiful flowers of all colors.  We passed to-day a large herd of goats and two immense herds of sheep.  We stopped for dinner at Coarse Gold Gulch, and in the afternoon passed great numbers of ground squirrels.</P>
182.sgm:<P>We reached Madera, or Merced, at 6, having traveled by stage nearly eighty miles during the day.  Spent the night at Madera.</P>
182.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Saturday, June 2d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The morning was pleasant, except for a strong, cool wind.  At this place is the termination of a flume, which is supported by timbers and extends fifty-five miles back into the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  The descent is gradual, so that lumber in clamps floats down unaided.  It is here piled in a large lumber yard, with which a steam mill is connected, which stands on the line of the railroad.  In this mill the lumber is manufactured for different building purposes, then it is transported by rail in different directions for great distances.  We took a train from this place at 6.50 a.m. for San Francisco.  We stopped at a place called El Capitan and also at Lathrop.  We saw great fields of wheat.  Crossed San Joaquin River and reached Oakland at 3 p.m.  We passed from the cars into a beautiful waiting room of the Central Pacific Railroad Company's ferry, which crosses the bay to San Francisco.  After a short delay we boarded the ferryboat, which landed us in San Francisco, where we found stages waiting to convey us to the Palace Hotel.  Room No. 704 was assigned us.  This hotel is said to be one of the finest and largest in the world.  The total number of sleeping rooms is 1,025, more than one-half of which are double rooms, elegantly furnished.  It surpasses all others that I have seen in elegance, convenience and comfort.  Here we found a letter from home.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sunday, June 3d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the morning we attended service at the Emeritus Congregational Church, of which Dr. Stone was formerly pastor.  Dr. Barrows is the present pastor, but he being absent on his vacation, Dr. Stone preached.  His text was, "That I might Touch Him."  Subject, What is necessary for a vital union with Christ.  The church edifice is elegant and the congregation large.  Excellent music was rendered by a quartet.  In the afternoon we visited the Chinese quarter, which is quite central and contains many streets, lanes and alleys, and is very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Monday, June 4th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went with several of our party to visit the United States Mint at this place.  Only silver dollars and $20 gold pieces are coined here.  The process of coining is very complete and perfect.  This mint is said to have three times the capacity of any other mint in the world.  The superintendent informed us that there were $30,000,000 in two safes which he pointed out to us.  I noticed a seal across the doors of the safes.  A German society of the Ancient Order of Workingmen marched through the streets led by a band of music this afternoon.</P>
182.sgm:<P>The United States and German flags were carried side by side.  As usual on every Monday evening the band played in the courtyard of the hotel.  Quite a collection of people were assembled.  In the afternoon we went to the top of the hotel, from which I had a very extensive view of the city in all directions.  Wrote a letter home.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Tuesday, June 5th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Called on H. D. Bacon, 305 Sansome street, on business relating to the Magdalene mine, and likewise on H. J. Booth &amp; Co., in the Merchant's Exchange, room 419.  Having a letter to Mr. Haggen, called on him, Nos. 47 to 51 Nevada Block.  In the afternoon I remained in the hotel, the thermometer being 95.  The people here say that it is the warmest weather, with the exception of one instance, some twenty years ago, that they have ever had.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Wednesday, June 6th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>This morning our party was taken to the Cliff House, a distance of six miles, on the Pacific Ocean, passing through Golden Gate Park.  At that place, a short distance from the shore, are great rocks, on which we saw sea lions congregated in great numbers, howling and barking and having a general frolic among themselves.  There were also sea fowl, pelicans, etc., in large numbers perched upon the upper part of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>I here saw for the first time the broad Pacific Ocean.  We returned to our hotel about 1.30 o'clock.  A party of us visited an underwriters' patrol house.  They went through with their performance the same as though an alarm of fire had been given.  The place is only two or three blocks from the Palace Hotel.  There are four trained horses there.  It was very interesting to see how horses could be trained to perform at the stroke of a bell.  They have their harness on and dash to their places, which they reach sooner than the men.  The men, who are upstairs, come down a slide like lightning.  They claim they have been ready and started in seven seconds from the first alarm of the fire.  We went upstairs to see the rooms of these men, and found them very pleasant, with birds, etc., to amuse themselves with.  Mrs. Lockwood, one of our party, received a New York Times, which she lent me.  It was quite a treat, as it was a long time since we had seen any Eastern papers.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Thursday, June 7th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The temperature to-day is cooler and more comfortable.  Visited the California Market in California street and saw the finest array of fruits and vegetables that I have ever seen.  Called on J. H. Booth.  Through the kindness of Dr. Halberstald, I, with about a dozen others, took a sail on California Bay on a splendid yacht belonging to a friend of the doctor living in San Francisco.  We had a splendid breeze all the afternoon.  We sailed around an island occupied by the United States as a military station.  We passed the State Prison, which is situated upon the shore.  Passed near the Golden Gate, through which the wind pressed with great force.  Saw many large ships moored <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Friday, June 8th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Six of our party left yesterday for the geysers, to return this evening.  Informed at a ticket office that the time required to travel from New York to San Francisco by the Central Pacific is nearly one day shorter than by the Southern Pacific.  Having a letter of introduction from Miss Amanda L. Mead to Dr Stone.  I called on him this afternoon.  His residence is 1822 Washington street, which was quite a long walk from our hotel.  The house is situated upon a hill.  From the top of the house a fine view is obtained of the Golden Gate.  The house and surroundings are very fine.  Had a very pleasant interview with the doctor and his family.  We also met a Miss Fischer there.  Many inquiries were made about the friends at the East.  Miss Fischer said that she was under great personal obligations to Miss Amanda L. Mead.  We returned to our hotel about 7 p.m.  After supper Mr. Finlay, Cristy and myself visited the Diamond Palace.  Diamonds sparkled from every part, even from the ceiling.  The room was brilliantly lighted.  Saw a pair of diamonds worth $8,200.  We received a letter from Emma, sent to Los Angeles and remailed to us here.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Saturday, June 9th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Took a walk this morning through the Chinese quarter of the city.  The dwellings and streets seemed to be filled with the Chinese.  The population is very dense and is said to number 50,000.  They are very exclusive and retain the customs and habits of their native country, which render them very obnoxious to the rest of the inhabitants.  This afternoon four of us, with a guide, visited the basement of the hotel, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sunday, June 10th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the morning attended the United Presbyterian Church, of which Dr. Gilson is pastor.  His text was, "Hold On and Not Let Go."  Several infants were baptized.  The singing was all vocal, no instruments being allowed.  In the evening attended service at the same church.  The text was from the Psalms, where David would not give sleep to his eyes until he had found a place for the mighty God of Jacob to dwell in.  The keynote of the sermon was that no one should delay for an hour without making his heart a temple for God to dwell in.  The discourse was delivered with great force and power.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Monday, June 11th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the morning I attended a confirmation service at a Jewish synagogue in Sutter street, at which fourteen girls and two boys were confirmed.  The girls were neatly dressed in white, with bouquets in their hands.  The services commenced by frequent reading and singing in Hebrew, German and English.  The candidates went through a long exercise of being catechized from the Scriptures.  The Ten Commandments were recited in Hebrew and English.  A beautiful prayer was offered by one of the girls in English.  The whole service was very solemn, but lacking the warmth of Christian feeling.  We left before the services were entirely completed, having to leave for Monterey.  The congregation at the synagogue was large, many not of the Jewish faith being present.  We packed our trunk, to be left in our room during our absence at Monterey.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Tuesday, June 12th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The Del Monte Hotel at Monterey, at which we are stopping, is a very fine place and is surrounded by grounds of more than 100 acres in extent.  It is situated in easy walking distance from the depot in a natural grove of live oaks, from the limbs of which hang great quantities of gray moss.  The grounds are most beautifully laid out with flower beds and shrubbery.  To entertain their guests they have numerous free accommodations for playing games.  It is a very delightful place to visit and has peculiar attractions, which they are still improving and enlarging.  At 9 in the morning our party left for a drive of eighteen miles on the Pacific coast.  Passing through the village and by a beach we then visited Moss Beach, where we found shells.  We next went to Pebble Beach and Cyprus Point, etc., getting out at some of the places and looking for shells and stones.  We had a fine view of the vast Pacific Ocean and of the sea lions and fowl upon its rocks.  An improvement association has bought this neck of land of 9,000 acres and are improving it by making drives and laying water pipes so as to sell building lots for Summer residences.  The water is brought some twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Wednesday, June 13th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Took a walk to the village, going to which we walked on the beach at the head of the bay.  The place has but two wharves, extending into the bay, but no vessels were lying at them.  The place, though very old, contains but about 16,000 inhabitants.  Met in the streets an Indian said to be 104 years old.  The sidewalks of the village are generally made of the vertebrae of whales, put down endways.  Visited also the old Catholic Mission Church, which, although very ancient, is in good condition and still used as a house of worship.  We returned to the hotel by a different route, passing a large cemetery, which did not appear to be much filled.  When we got to our hotel some of our party were playing lawn tennis, which we watched with great interest, it being entirely new to me.</P>
182.sgm:<P>There were two games which were being played in different parts of the ground.  There is also a labyrinth, or puzzle, which consists in walking through paths without stepping over the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Thursday, June 14th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Took a walk down to the village of Monterey with Mr. Finley.  Stopped at the bath house to take a view of the swimming tanks.  We met in the village a man formerly of Massachusetts, who was a magistrate and lumber merchant.  He said that more business was done in the place than appeared, and that two or three coast steamers stopped there weekly.  We also stopped at a photograph and drug store kept by a physician, who was formerly of Michigan and came here to improve his health, which was broken down in the Union army during the late war.  He spends some part of the year camping out in the mountains, but he still looks delicate.  I made some small purchases of the doctor and returned to our hotel about 12.30 and went up into the cupola to take a view.  Took a walk into the vegetable garden.  We then took lunch and left at 1 o'clock for San Francisco, a distance of about 125 miles.  We traveled all the afternoon through the same beautiful fertile valley which we went through on our way to Monterey.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Friday, June 15th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the forenoon we walked about the city.  Called to see Mr. Holbrook, but didn't find him.  In the afternoon went up to China Town with Cristy and Mr. Robinson  Made a purchase at a Chinese store--a breastpin, a fan, a top, a Chinese egg toy and a scratcher.  In going about the city we had occasion to ride on the cable roads, on which the cars are drawn by stationary steam power.  There are several of them in the city.  Some of them ascend and descend hills which I think are so steep that horses could not draw cars over.  They do not vary their speed in crossing the hills.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Saturday, June 16th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Visited the office of the Central Pacific Railroad Company, opposite the Southern Pacific Railroad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sunday, June 17th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Attended church both morning and evening at the First Congregational Church, of which Dr. Stone was pastor.  Heard two very able, practical sermons by Dr. Stratton, president of Santa Clara College.  His discourse in the morning was on the prayer of Solomon, who came to the throne when he was but 19 years of age.  He asked God for neither riches nor honor, but for wisdom, which God gave him, together with both riches and honor, showing, especially to young men, that the wisdom which God alone can give adds vastly to success in any calling in life.  The text in the evening was, "He that doeth My will shall know of the doctrine."  Subject, deduction and induction.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Monday, June 18th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the morning went out and bought a breastpin for mother and Hannah and packed our trunk ready to start on our journey on the Central Pacific.  Our way for a long time was by the Sacramento River.  Many flags were floating on the breeze in San Francisco commemorating the anniversary of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Tuesday, June 19th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>After a comfortable night's rest we arose to see a town of 2,000 inhabitants.  Observed to the left of us a building of fine appearance, and on inquiry found it to be a college.  This region is said to be well adapted to small fruits, such as raspberries, strawberries, cherries, etc., which are raised extensively.  After breakfast at a hotel we resumed our journey, passing through some of the grandest mountain scenery that the eye ever looked upon.  Took dinner 5,600 feet above the level of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Wednesday, June 20th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>At the appointed time our cars were attached to the express train and we were on our way before we got out of our berths and soon crossed the line into Nevada.  Reached the village of Reno, where we took breakfast at the Depot Hotel, about 7 a.m.  This is a place of considerable size, handsomely laid out.  For some distance on our way in Nevada <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>Twelve o'clock.  Still running on the desert.  There is very little variety of scenery.  We have just seen in the distance to our left what appeared to be a cone-shaped volume of steam, but some said it was simply mirage.  A dinner ticket has just been handed me, from which I infer a hotel is not far distant.  Just observed in the distance on the desert what appeared to be another geyser.  To our delight and surprise we came upon an oasis in the desert.  It contained an acre or more, beautifully laid out with trees, both fruit and ornamental, shrubbery and flowers.  A fountain was playing in the yard.  The grass was a beautiful green, a complete contrast to everything surrounding.  Before our train fully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Thursday, June 21st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Awoke early, as usual, and spent some time in my berth looking out of the car window before any of the passengers appeared to be astir.  We left the State of Nevada and entered the Territory of Utah some time before daylight this morning.  After running a time this morning we came in view of Salt Lake, lying to our right.  This lake is much larger than I had supposed, being ninety miles long by ten to twenty miles wide.  Salt Lake City is situated opposite the southern portion of the lake, at some distance to the east of it, but still in plain view.  Observed before leaving the Central Pacific Railroad a roadbed graded for a narrow gauge road extending for a considerable distance.  It now belongs to the Central Pacific road.  The land, as we approach Ogden, looks better for agricultural purposes.  It continues to improve as we pass into the Salt Lake Valley, where it appears to be very fertile and rich.  Crossed a stream near the village of Cirenicie.  Observed salt made by evaporation, and salt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Friday, June 22d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the morning went with Mr. Sweron and Mr. Young on the horse cars to the hot spring and took a sulphur bath.  The distance was about a mile and a half.  When returning, my attention was attracted by a very aged man as he came into the cars.  On inquiring of him as to his age, he said that if he lived eight months longer he would be one hundred years old, and that he came from England fourteen years ago and had been a Mormon for thirty years, and that he now lives with a daughter.  He was now on his way to his barber, who had promised to shave him gratuitously as long as he lived, if he would come on Fridays.  A large part of the houses are of one story, and that not very high, with from one to seven front doors at equal distances apart.  Each door is supposed to open into a separate apartment.  The number of doors indicates the number of wives.  After leaving the cars we took a circuitous walk in the southeastern part of the city, and did not return to the hotel until twelve.  While upon the street we met several ladies, to whom Mr. Young ingenuously introduced the subject of plurality of wives, and from whom we obtained interesting information, but not very favorable to the system, although they would not say it was wrong in all cases.  Some of the leaders say that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>The Mormon Church is by far the largest one.  They claim that they have 40,000 children in their Sunday-schools in the Territory, and three colleges, which contain 1,000 students.  It is said that there is but one town in the Territory in which the majority is not Mormon, but all other denominations have established churches to some extent.  They will probably grow much faster relatively in the future than the Mormon Church.  The products of the soil are fine and abundant and below the price which they bear in New York City, the result of a fruitful soil and a salubrious climate.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Saturday, June 23d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>After breakfast I took a walk with Cristy to see the grave of Brigham Young.  It is in a small plot of ground fenced in by a stone wall, situated on a hill a short distance east of the Tabernacle.  There is but one other grave in the plot--that of one of his wives.  His grave is covered by a very large granite slab from six to eight feet square, being nearly level with top of the ground, and there is no inscription on it.  It is said to weigh several tons.  Perhaps it is an intended base for a monument at some future day.  There was no monument for his wife.  She died more recently.  The ground is nicely laid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>Took dinner at one of the stopping places in this valley, at which we heard of some extraordinarily large families.  At no very great distance from that point we left the valley and entered a hilly region, leading into the mountains.</P>
182.sgm:<P>I omitted the name of the place where we had dinner, which is Provo.  The dinner was good and well served.  For fruit we had excellent strawberries and peaches.  Before leaving the valley we passed four emigrant wagons, and at Springville, a large village, we saw extensive works, where they were making brick.  At 2 p.m. we were fairly out of the valley and among the mountains again, passing at times through deep and narrow can&tilde;ons, with lofty mountains, whose sides were solid rock.  They were nearly perpendicular and perhaps from one to two thousand feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>We reached another desert in the State of Utah, in which we are to travel ten hours during the night,.  Retired about 10 p.m.  The train ran very steadily during the night.  We crossed Green River.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Sunday, June 24th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>This is the second Sunday during our journey which we have traveled.  About 7 o'clock a.m. we found ourselves among the mountains, winding about on very steep grades, 280 feet to a mile.  In a vale in the mountains we took breakfast at a hotel.  The Gunnison River was very full, being fed by springs and snow from the mountains.  We soon entered the Blue or Black Cantilde; on, and then the Royal Gorge.  Although we had seen many grand and awe-inspiring sights, which we thought could not be equaled, still we had to admit that this surpassed them all.  It was about ten miles long and very narrow, perhaps three to five rods, with walls of rock rising on either side probably from one to two thousand feet high, affording scarcely room enough for the river and our narrow-gauge road.  Sometimes our road was partly over the river, and over which we crossed three times before leaving the cantilde;on.  Before entering the cantilde;on, an open car was attached to our train, which seated the whole party.  When we had passed through, the open car was detached.  This car was evidently built to be attached to trains passing through this gorge for the purpose of giving passengers a full view of the scenery.  We occasionally saw a person spending his Sunday in fishing along the banks of the river.  The railroad, after it leaves the cantilde;on, follows the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>This is the highest point that any railroad in the world has ever reached.  At this place we were 6,000 feet higher than at the commencement of the day.  While noting this down in the cars, I observed quantities of snow at a considerable distance below us.  While at this point our train stopped a few minutes, and several of us went out and brought handfuls of snow into the cars.  As I ate some, I perceived no difference from the snow which we have at home.  From this summit the water descends both to the Pacific and Atlantic oceans.  The air to-day has been just right for comfort.  Enjoyed to-day in the cars some singing appropriate for the Sabbath.  Although we have passed some distance from the summit, still the altitude is very high and the scenery sublime.  The danger of a descending grade is greater than that of an ascending one.  In descending, we have all the brakes on the wheels and the steam shut off.  Going zigzag down the mountain, sometimes with very short turns, we are enabled to see the same tracks several times over which we have traveled.  Soon after reaching the plain we came to a large village called Animousa.  The river running through that place was very full, occasioned by several warm days which had melted the snow.  Although we have passed through many wonderful gorges, still, the Royal Gorge, through which we passed last, is the most wonderful for awe-inspiring scenery.  Passed through Cantilde;on City, which is quite a place.  Reached Peublo at 8 p.m. and stopped twenty minutes for supper.  This evening Mr. Brown, from Brooklyn, left our party to engage in the mining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Monday, June 25th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The morning was very pleasant and balmy, as appears to be usual in this region.  The thermometer at 7 a.m. was at 66.  The time spent in Denver was only sufficient to permit us to eat our breakfast and to change our baggage from the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad to the Burlington and Quincy.  Leaving Denver, we at once found ourselves speeding on our way over the Great American Plains, which comprise one extended stretch covered with grass which looked quite fresh and green.  Saw three antelopes, very beautiful and sleek animals.  The road is straight and the cars run smoothly and fast.  Stopped for dinner at a place called Akron, which is 112 miles from Denver.  I understood that this place is half way across the plains.  The grass still looks fresh and green, and affords good pasture.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Rains are said to be more frequent than formerly, which fact is attributed to the planting of trees, the stirring of the soil and the telegraph wires and steel rails, which cross the continent and are supposed to attract electricity.  Just passed a long freight train of thirty cars going west.  We reached the Republican River and ran in sight of it for a long time.  Saw immense herds of cattle in or near the river during all the time that we were in sight of it. Saw to the south of us a heavy thunder cloud, from which rain was falling.  Its cooling effect is very perceptible to us.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Stopped at a village, where I observed that they were laying pipe to supply the place with water.  We have now reached a region where they have had abundance of rain.  This, with a rich soil, makes this region very productive in agricultural products, affording a striking contrast to the country through which we have traveled the last seven weeks, where irrigation is resorted to in order to raise crops.  Observed several places where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Tuesday, June 26th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>At 6 a.m. took breakfast at the depot dining room.  At 7 our train started on its way to Chicago.  Passing on, we are still in an exceedingly fertile country, but the crops are, to some extent, on the lowlands, submerged with water.  The banks of the Platte River, by which we are traveling, are overflowed, thus making the river very wide.  Find our track still somewhat damaged by the freshets, and many men are busily engaged repairing them and removing land slides.  Our train was run very cautiously.  The people here in Nebraska say that they have not had such a flood for many years.</P>
182.sgm:<P>At 10 a.m. we crossed the Missouri River, at a place called Plattsmouth.  The bridge over which we passed was made of iron and quite high from the river.  We now enter into the State of Iowa, and as we proceed through it we see immense numbers of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Wednesday, June 27th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Passed the very fine city of Aurora.  Reached Chicago about 7 a.m., having made the journey from Denver to that place in about forty-eight hours.  Nearly all of our way was through a very rich and fertile country, with many fine villages, as well as many fine country residences.  We stopped at the Sherman House.  After breakfast, although it rained slightly, which was the first we had seen for about eight weeks, we took a walk in the city, passing through a tunnel under the Chicago River.  We visited the elevators for storing grain.  We then extended our walk down the long wharf to the lake, where numerous vessels were discharging cargoes of lumber.  Some of the logs were being sawed into short blocks, to be used for paving streets, and being loaded into cars for transportation.  In returning, we crossed the river on a drawbridge and as the draw was about being opened, we remained on it until it was closed again, meantime two vessels passing through.  The wind blew considerably, and the lake was quite rough.  I returned to our hotel, and after dinner stepped out with Cristy to find a place to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Thursday, June 28th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the morning we found our train running through Canada.  The night had been somewhat rainy.  Here, as farther west, there appeared to have been an excess of rain.  The country of Canada appears to be mostly level, though somewhat rolling.  Crops look well, but more backward than those further west.  Much of the country appears to have been cleared recently, the stumps still standing.  It has evidently been a heavily timbered country.  Stopped at the city of London, which has a population of 34,000.  After leaving London, the country becomes more hilly and rolling.  We next stopped at Hamilton, where we had breakfast.  We reached Niagara Falls about 10 a.m.  Here our car was switched off, to be taken up by another train later in the day.  We started out sight-seeing and crossed the suspension bridge, paying twenty-five cents toll.  We next visited Goat Island.  From two points of this island we passed down two flights of stairs to the water.  Heavy rains having fallen during the last few weeks, the volume of water was very great.  This island divides the Falls, and is right on the precipice.  In some places the water is of a blue color, in others green, and still in others muddy.  Probably throughout the world there is no equal to these Falls for volume.  Returning to our train, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Friday, June 29th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the morning we found ourselves in the southern part of the State of New York, near New Jersey.  Crossed the ferry to New York City about 9 a.m.  Spent several hours in the city and took the 12 o'clock train from the Grand Central Depot for home.</P>
182.sgm:<P>This completes the journey, during which nearly ten thousand miles were traveled, all by rail, with the exception of about three hundred miles traveled by stage.  The time occupied was eight weeks and one day.  It extended into or through twenty-four States and Territories, in which many of the principal towns and cities were visited and generally time enough spent in the various places to gain considerable knowledge of them.  The principal ones were Washington, D.C.; Lexington and Louisville, including the Mammoth Cave, Ky.; St. Louis and Kansas City, Mo.; Pueblo, Manitou and Denver, including the Garden of the Gods, Col.; Hot Springs, in Las Vegas, and Santa Fe&acute;, N.M.; Los Angeles, Yosemite Valley, San Francisco, Monterey and Sacramento, Cal.; Ogden and Salt Lake City, Utah; Chicago, Ill.; Niagara, N.Y., and others of less note.  Our route was beside the principal rivers for long distances, such as the Rio Grande, Colorado, Arkansas, Kansas, Green and Republican.  Several of them we crossed repeatedly, the Mississippi and Missouri each twice.  I met with and saw representatives of many nationalities that I had not met before, such as the Spanish with the Indian mixture, in New Mexico, retaining the habits and customs of their ancestors, while the persevering Yankee who has settled among them retains his own just as tenaciously.  I had some acquaintance with the American Indian, as found settled in villages, and becoming civilized and Christianized to some extent, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Daily Notes of a Trip to California and Return, taken by Solomon Mead, in 1886=7.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 8th, 1886.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Left Greenwich, Ct., to take train to New York.  Our horse being lame, I walked to the depot, carrying a valise and bundle weighing about forty pounds.  The morning was clear and pleasant, sufficiently cool to make exercise enjoyable.  I met Clarence Mead at the depot, who is to go with me.  Reached the Grand Central Depot, New York City, about 9 A.M.  There we met Clarence's father, Mr. Frederick Mead, who accompanied us on the 42d street cars to 10th avenue.  At this point Clarence's mother and sister met us and accompanied us on the cars to the Pacific Mail Steamship Company's pier, near Canal street, where we were to embark for San Francisco, on the ship Colon, by way of Aspinwall and Panama.  Found the agent of the Pacific Mail line, who weighed our baggage and conveyed it to our stateroom.  The ship was to sail at 12 M., but the time was extended to 1 P.M.  Our stateroom, which had been selected some days previous, was room No. 13, on the main deck, which was quite comfortable, and convenient to other parts of the ship.  It had three berths--the lower one we found convenient to store our baggage in.  The price paid for passage was seventy dollars each.  This included baggage of two hundred pounds each, as well as transportation.  The cabin passengers numbered about forty-five, and there were about twenty-five or thirty in the steerage.  Many friends of the passengers were on the wharf to see the vessel sail and to express <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 9th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>As usual, I arose early and went on deck in time to see the sun rise.  I found the hands clearing up and washing down the deck.  Yesterday was a busy day with them, making everything ready for the sea.  To-day, at 1 p.m., the captain said, we have made 236 miles, which is at the rate of 10 or 11 miles per hour.  He has the reputation of being one of the best navigators in the Pacific Mail service.  In talking with me, he said he had followed the sea 45 years.  Breakfast was served this morning at 9 o'clock.  A cup of coffee can be had by those who desire something earlier.  Much of our time has been spent on the upper deck, where I have jotted down most of this journal.  After breakfast I observed sea fowls, or gulls, in large numbers, picking up bits that were thrown overboard.  Some of the bolder birds would fly near the stern of the vessel in order to obtain an advantage over their fellows in picking up the best pieces.  After finishing their meal they mostly disappeared.  In conversation this morning with the first officer of the ship, I spoke to him about my son, who went out in this same ship last April.  He asked me his name.  I told him it was Mead.  He at once replied that he remembered him well, and said he was a fine fellow, too.  He charged me to give him his best respects.  I spoke to him regarding my son's attempt to carry some maple <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 10th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Up to this time we have experienced light winds and very smooth sea.  I have known worse seas in Long Island Sound.  But, as we have now entered the Gulf Stream, the vessel has a considerable roll, so that we have to use much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 11th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>There has been no abatement of the gale, and not more than half the passengers appeared at the breakfast table.  The waves seem to resemble snow-clad hills, which give the effect of light and shade, reflecting the light from their tops, and seemingly disclosing patches of bare earth in the valleys.  At 12 m., as usual, the captain took his reckoning, finding the run for the last 24 hours to be 260 miles; latitude, 28 degrees N.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 12th. Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Last night the roll of the ship was heavier than at any time during our voyage, in consequence of the course of the ship being in the trough of the sea.  I saw a rainbow this morning which, for size and brilliancy, was perfect; it extended from horizon to horizon, surpassing incomparably anything of the kind I have ever witnessed.  Its brightness was such that it cast the reflection of another, almost its equal, directly under it.  The gale has subsided for some time, so that the ship now rolls much less.  At 11 a.m. the captain read the Episcopal service in the saloon, at which about one-third of the passengers were present.  Showers are frequent, but short, and the air is very moist.  We have just seen land for the first time.  It is Watkins Island, belonging to England, about 10 miles by 5, of coral formation, supporting a few inhabitants.  A lighthouse is building on the highest point, which the captain says is greatly needed.  At 12 m., we have run 240 miles; latitude, 24 degrees N.; thermometer, 77 degrees.  At 9 p.m. we passed Birds Island light.  There is a group of three islands of that name, extending about 40 miles.  They belong to England.  Most of these West India Islands extend north and south.  We also passed one named Castle Island.  While running between these islands the sea is quite smooth and the heavy roll of the ship has ceased.</P>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 13th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went on deck at 5 o'clock, and observed two men on the lookout at the bow and an officer on the bridge.  Some were hoisting sails and some putting up awnings to protect the passengers from the sun.  We saw a large schooner at some distance.  Sea smooth.  Vessel proceeding without much rocking.  The past night has been the best, for sleeping, that we have had during the voyage.  Wind about east; sails set.  8.30 a.m., thermometer, 79 degrees.  We are passing Cuba on our right.  This island is 700 miles long by 300 wide, extending northwest and southeast.  Much of the island is quite high, and some of it which we saw seemed to be unimproved.  10.30, we ran quite close to the island, and observed a lighthouse on the shore.  Latitude to-day, 20 degrees N.; longitude, 74 degrees W.; distance run, 272 miles.  At 2 p.m. we passed the Pacific Mail steamer Acapulco.  Since last evening Clarence has been somewhat indisposed with a sore throat.  At 10 p.m. we passed Navassa Island on the west and Hayti on the east, but too far distant to be distinctly seen in the night.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 14th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We have now entered the Caribbean Sea.  We have the benefit of the trade winds, blowing steadily from the east.  Have a moderately rough sea, and more rolling of the ship than we have had for the last 48 hours.  The sky is overcast by drifting clouds, such as are produced by heat, wind and water acting together.  7 a.m.--The sailors are engaged in unfurling and adjusting the sails, to take advantage of the trade winds.  11 a.m.--The sun has dried up the clouds.  Clear and smooth sea.  At 11 a.m. each day the passengers have access to their baggage stored in the hold.  Latitude at 12 m., 16 degrees N.; longitude, 75 degrees W.; distance run, 257 miles.  A fire drill was gone through with this afternoon.  The fire alarm was the quick, sharp ringing of the bell for a short time, when all the men attached to the ship hastened to their position in line-- <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 15th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>I left the warm, uncomfortable stateroom at 5 o'clock, and went on deck.  I found one person stretched out on chairs, where he had spent the night.  The air on deck, though warm, was pure and balmy.  There is a steady, strong breeze blowing from the east--the trade wind, which continues to blow steadily for months.  This wind is a great aid to sailing vessels.  The chief engineer on this vessel informed me that the revolutions of the wheel had averaged 50 1-10 revolutions per minute.  He calculates how much coal and water it takes to make a pound of steam.  Notice is put up that all check baggage in staterooms must be removed to the baggage-room before 3 o'clock to-day.  Latitude, 12 degrees 9 minutes N.; longitude, 78 degrees 19 minutes W.; distance run, 279 miles, the longest distance made in any one day during the voyage.  No vessels seen from dawn till night.  I have looked this evening, to find the north star, but without success, for I find we are too far south, and that where we are it is below the horizon.</P>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 16th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rising as usual and going on deck, I find we are nearing land and Aspinwall Bay.  Reached the wharf about 7 a.m.  Several sea vessels of different nationalities were moored in the bay, and others were lying at their wharves, receiving and discharging their cargoes.  After breakfast we went ashore.  Aspinwall is built on low, flat, marshy ground, little higher than the sea, said to have been formed by the sea.  A very large proportion of the inhabitants are negroes.  It contains but few women or children.  It is a place where few care to live, except as business draws them.  About all the business comes comes the railroad, which transports freight and passengers across the Isthmus, from ocean to ocean.  At Aspinwall the tide rises three feet; at Panama twenty feet.  There is considerable business done by this railroad, for all nations, in transporting freight.  The building of the ship canal at the present time brings a large amount of business.  Most of the laborers on this canal, it is said, come from Jamaica and Cuba.  While walking in Aspinwall, we called on Mr. Stavey, who holds the position of paymaster in the Panama Railroad Company, and who received us with the greatest hospitality and kindness, conducting us about the portion of the city belonging to the railroad company, which is very handsomely improved, and is used for shops, etc., and residences for the employees.  This city is named from its founder, a man from New York.  The life of the city is entirely dependent upon the railroad.  I saw, for the first time, cocoanut trees with the fruit growing upon them, and other tropical products.  We spent seven hours in the city, from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., when our train started for Panama.  In crossing the Isthmus, we pass nearly all the way through low, wet, marshy ground, covered with dense vegetation; one continuous jungle.  I saw some of the most miserable habitations I ever set my eyes upon, and their occupants correspondingly miserable.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 17th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Arose early, as usual.  The coast of Central America here is bordered by ranges of high mountains.  Observed seven head of fat steers and eight or ten fine, fat sheep, beside large coops of turkeys, fowls and ducks, to be killed as needed, to supply the ship with fresh meat and poultry.  To-day's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 18th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Clear and a fine, steady breeze.  The surface of the ocean smooth, and the air balmy.  The regular routine of daily morning work is to wash down and polish up the ship.  Cleanliness is carefully attended to.  The ship's crew appear to be all Americans, except the waiters, who are Chinese.  This ship, the Colima, is larger than the Colon, and is very roomy; a fine, noble vessel.  She is somewhat old, runs quite steadily and smoothly, and makes but about ten miles per hour.  Perfect discipline and order prevail here, as was the case on the Colon.  This ship has but one cat, while the Colon had four.  The coast is still lined with mountains.  Honduras and the other Central American States are all being passed on our right.  At 11 a.m. the sailors are at work tarring the rigging.  They are distributed over all parts of it, from the masthead to the deck.  There seems to be no time for idleness or loafing for them on shipboard.  They are painting, cleaning, mending sails or ropes, together with the regular routine duties, which devolve on them, day and night, in their regular watches.  At 1 p.m. a large volume of smoke is seen issuing from the peak of a high mountain in Costa Rica.  If it were in the night, I think fire could be seen, as well as smoke.  The reckoning to-day shows latitude 9 degrees 22 minutes N.; longitude 85 degrees 17 minutes W.; distance run, 264 miles.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 19th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Sunday. Arose and went on deck about a half hour before sunrise, in order to avail myself of the sweet air of the Pacific in this tropical climate, and to greet the sun as it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 20th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>This morning we are sailing off the coast of Guatemala.  Its coast, like that of the other Central American States which we have passed, is bordered by mountains.  The Central American States, I am informed, are all independent of each other, and the mass of the people are poor, illiterate, and governed mostly by chiefs, called presidents, who rule with unlimited power.  Legislators are elected by the higher classes, but suffrage is not allowed to the masses.  The thermometer has recently averaged about 80 degrees.  The mountains of Guatemala are much higher on the coast than any I have observed as we have passed the other Central American States.  Clouds resting on them give the appearance of smoke.  On passing a certain port at 11 a.m., our vessel hoisted its colors.  A large business is done here in the coffee trade by the Pacific Mail steamships, the coffee being carried both to New York and San Francisco, by way of Panama.  It is a rule on these ships that the children shall take their meals, under charge of the chambermaid, before the adults.  Latitude to-day, 14 degrees N.; longitude, 92 degrees W.; distance run, 239 miles.  Course is northwest.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 21st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>It is said that in passing across the Gulf of Tehuantepec a gale is met three times out of four.  It began blowing last evening about 6 o'clock, and the gale has continued up to the present time, 6 a.m.  We found the change from the monotony which we have had for some days previous rather pleasant than otherwise.  No expense or pains seem to have been spared by the company in providing for the safety and comfort of the passengers.  Each stateroom is amply provided with life-preservers for each inmate, in case of sudden <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 22d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>With the exception of a few small showers near Aspinwall we have met with no rain since leaving Greenwich.  The atmosphere now seems to have more moisture in it.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 23d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>At 10 a.m. we passed the Pacific Mail steamer Guatemala, bound for Panama.  Latitude, 17 degrees N.; longitude, 101 degrees W.; distance run, 137 miles.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 24th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The sun arose this morning at 6.40.  At 7 a.m. the ship is entering the port of Manzanillo.  This town, like Acapulco, is built at the foot of mountains, on the shore of the bay.  It appears to be more advanced in modern improvements than Acapulco.  There is a railroad entering the town <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:through a gorge in the mountains about wide enough to admit the road, running back into the country about 40 miles.  The City of Mexico is distant from this place about 250 miles.  The trees on the mountains are much larger and of more luxuriant growth than I have yet observed on the Pacific coast, giving the town a more beautiful appearance than any I have yet seen.  On the peak of one of these mountains, which overlooks both the coast and the town, is a humble looking building, with a mast surmounted by a cross set up near it.  I was told that this is a place sacred for prayer and intercession for the sins of the people, and, that there might be no interruption, night or day, the priests take turns.  No one is allowed to intrude upon this place; but it is kept sacred as a place of humiliation and prayer.  Near the foot of this mountain of prayer is a neat, modest looking church.  Standing about near it, without much appearance of regularity, were neat-looking houses, which seems to be the fashionable part of the town.  Extending to the east, in a semi-circular shape, runs the bay, the railroad entering near the circle.  The poorer classes seem to have their dwellings in the rear, but in close proximity to the town.  The ship is discharging a large amount of merchandise, which is brought from New York, consisting of boxes, bales, coils of barbed wire for fencing, etc.  The only means of transferring freight from the ship is in lighters, as there seem to be no wharves on this coast.  The tide at this port is said to rise and fall ten feet.  I observed but one other sea vessel in the harbor.  This was a very handsome Danish brig, named Doran Fano.  Numbers of the natives came on board, some to sell their wares and trinkets, others, of the better classes, to see the ship.  Among these I observed a gentleman, with his wife and two or three children, all richly dressed in silks and jewels, evidently those of first standing in society.  The ship was no doubt a great curiosity <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 25th.  Christmas.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We passed a large number of peculiarly repulsive looking fish, which some of the crew called devil-fish.  I had a conversation with a German Jew, with whom I formed a pleasant acquaintance, and whom I found to be a genial, kind-hearted man, evidently a person of strong mind.  He is on his way to his family, in San Francisco, where he spends part of the year.  The rest is spent in Panama, where he has a jewelry store.  His name is Broma.  We were seated together <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 26th. Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The natural world here is beautiful.  The village, the sky, the air and water, all combine to raise the thoughts of man to that Being whose goodness is over all His works.  The work of discharging the cargo into lighters continues the same on this day as on any other, and there is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 27th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Just before the sun arose we entered the harbor of Mazatlan.  At the entrance there is a large, cone-shaped rock called the "Lion's Head Rock," from its resemblance to a lion's head.  There is a lighthouse, and other high and prominent rocks on either side of the entrance of the harbor.  At 9 a.m. I set off in a rowboat, with a number of others, to visit the town, which is situated about three miles distant.  The price of the round trip is 75 cents Mexican money, which is equivalent to 60 cents United States money.  We went through several of the principal streets of the town.  We found this place much in advance of anything we have seen in Mexico.  Among other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 27th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>I observed a larger number of the African race in this place than I have seen anywhere since leaving Panama.  At 3 p.m. the ship again hoisted her anchor and got under way, having now made the last port before reaching San Francisco, which place we expect to reach next Monday.  Our course now is due west, on which I understand we are to run for six or seven hundred miles, after which our course will be about due north.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 28th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>I have observed that since we have passed the tropics we have heavier dews.  At 10 a.m. passed Cape St. Lucas.  We saw several whales at a distance.  The coast of Lower California appears to be a barren, sandy, rocky coast.  The thermometer to-day stands at 70 degrees, and the atmosphere is very comfortable for sleeping at night.  The instrument used to take the reckonings is called the sextant.  Latitude 23 degrees N.; longitude, 110 degrees W.; distance run, 218 miles.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 29th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Strong headwind all day.  No land or anything worthy of note sighted during the day.  Latitude, 25 degrees N.; longitude, 113 degrees W.; distance run, 232 miles.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 30th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The sky, which has been clear for so long, has now become overcast with clouds, reminding us that we are approaching a change in climate.  Witnessed a rainbow this morning; not brilliant as those seen in the tropics, but resembling those at home.  At midday the clouds are gone.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 30th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Latitude, 25 degrees N.; longitude, 115 degrees W.; distance run, 207 miles.  The past twenty-four hours we have had a strong headwind.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>December 31st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The wind has abated.  Latitude, 31 degrees N.; longitude, 118 degrees W.; distance run, 227 miles.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 1st, 1887.  Saturday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>As we are sailing along the coast we see the coast range of mountains, which extend about the whole length of California.  For the last few days an instrument called a log has been attached to the stern of the vessel.  It consists of an instrument on the end of a long cord, which keeps revolving with varying rapidity, according to the speed of the vessel, and records the speed on a dial placed at the stern.  Observed the sea gulls about the ship in much larger numbers than heretofore.  They fly quite close to the ship, as no one is allowed to molest them.  Latitude, 34 degrees N.; longitude, 121 degrees W.; distance run, 255 miles.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 2d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>During last night we had a strong wind and a heavy sea.  The ship rolled quite heavily.  Thick fog this morning.  The ship stops occasionally and runs at slow speed.  The captain was on the bridge all night.  At 8 a.m. the vessel stopped.  A fog horn was heard to our left, said to be on an island off the coast.  At 9 a.m. a pilot was taken on board.  He came from the island in the direction of the fog horn sound.  Passed a lighthouse on our right, likewise the Seal Rocks and Clift House.  Also passed a fort on our right while sailing through the Golden Gate.  The fog has lifted now so that objects on the shore are more discernible.  The sea gulls which have accompanied us in very large numbers now, as we come to the wharf, light on the roof of the building which covers it, and almost conceal it, evidently without any fear of molestation, and as tame as our pigeons.  We landed at 10 a.m.  Our first business was to find a boarding place for our short stay in San Francisco.  Our baggage was inspected by a custom house officer.  As we emerged from the covered dock we were beset by runners from the different hotels.  After some time spent in looking about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 3d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went out to make some calls on some people I knew.  At the request of Mr. Fosdick, I called on Maim &amp; Winchester, 220 Battery street.  I bought a copy of Van Dyke's "Southern California" to present to my son.  We made inquiries concerning the best way to go to Southern California.  Took extensive walks with Clarence about the city.  Being desirous of finding some New York papers, we went in search of them in the evening, and were informed that they could be found at the Mercantile Library and Reading Room, which is in Brush street, near Kearney, over the California Theatre.  We found here a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 4th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>After due consideration we decided that it would be best to take the coast line steamer, which sails to-morrow morning at 9 a.m.  At the office of the company we bought our tickets for $15 each.  We returned to our rooms at 11 a.m.  After dinner I took a walk with Clarence about the city; went into the Stock Exchange.  The excitement seemed to equal that in the New York Stock Exchange.  The exchange is near Nevada Block.  After this we walked up California street, ascending some very high and steep hills, over which the cable roads run with perfect success.  Saw several fine residences, with grounds and lawns beautifully laid out.  We packed our baggage for tomorrow's passage on the steamer, which leaves at the foot of Broadway at 9 a.m.  It stops at several ports on the California coast, as far as San Diego.  The passage includes board.  I am told that the present season is the coldest of the year, and it is just comfortable to walk without overcoats.  The people appear to enjoy fine physical health as I observed them passing about, owing, no doubt, to plenty of exercise in the open air, and not having to be shut up in heated rooms in Winter time.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 5th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Took breakfast at 7 a.m.  Left our hotel at 8 a.m., with baggage in hand.  Having some distance to walk to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 6th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>About daylight this morning we reached the port of San Luis Obispo, 200 miles from San Francisco.  We landed at a commodious wharf, with vast storehouses to correspond.  Freight was discharged and received at this port.  Spent less than an hour's time, after which the ship moved out of the harbor and proceeded on her way.  Noticing the healthy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 7th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>At daybreak we reached Wilmington and San Pedro, the port where we landed.  Our breakfast was kindly furnished at an early hour.  This appears to be quite a business place, being the seaport of Los Angeles.  Started on the cars for Los Angeles about 7 a.m., which place is about thirty miles distant.  The railroad runs for considerable distance on piers and low ground, and across the bay on spiles.  From Wilmington we proceed at a more rapid rate of speed.  We pass through fields where the stalks of last year's corn crop are still standing.  Our train stopped at Compton, which appears to be quite a village.  Saw plowing going on, and considerable quantities of alfalfa growing along the railroad, also extensive rows of evergreens.  Reached Los Angeles at 8.30 a.m..  Here Clarence and I were to go in different directions, he to take the train to Orange, I to go on to San Gorgonio on the Southern Pacific.  His train was to leave at 9.30 a.m., giving him time to get his baggage changed and to purchase his ticket.  As the train on the Southern Pacific didn't leave till 2.40 p.m., I had to wait until that time.  While waiting some five hours in the depot, I met with a number of others who were going to different points in Southern California.  Some go on account of their health, to find a more genial and salubrious climate, and some to better their condition in places where the comforts and requirements of life are easily met.  After leaving, at 2.40 p.m., the first village of any importance was Pomona.  We passed through some fields of dry mustard stalks.  The next place we came to was Ontario.  This is a large place, and is well laid out.  It contains a fine hotel, and is fast improving, promising to become a favorite place.  Next place was Colton, where a branch road to Riverside intersects and a branch road runs to San Diego.  After leaving this place we ran up a steep grade at a low rate of speed.  We reached San Gorgonio between 6 and 7 p.m., the place where we were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 8th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Took a walk around to see the place and to find Mr. Edwin Mead's residence.  I soon found it, without any difficulty, situated about a quarter of a mile from the village, on Central avenue.  As I approached the house, I saw a carpenter at work outside, whom I found to be Mr. Mead's son-in-law, Mr. MacBeth.  Knowing each other by reputation, we felt like old friends.  He invited me into the house, where I met Mrs. Mead and her daughter, Sarah, from whom I received a very cordial reception.  Mr. Mead came in soon after, and he, with Mr. MacBeth, invited me to take a walk around the village, during which they introduced me to many of the inhabitants.  As I then wished to go to my son's place, a man in the village very kindly offered to take me out.  It is a distance of about three miles out, on what is called the mesa land.  After proceeding part of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 9th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Last night was cool.  Ice formed about the thickness of a window pane.  In the morning I attended a union service of the Congregationalists and Methodists, held in the latter's church.  Miss Miller, an evangelist, is holding protracted meetings in this place.  She is a person of very winning manners and of much zeal and ability.  She came from the East.  The Rev. Mr. Palmer, who was formerly a settled preacher here, but has now become a local preacher, delivered a sermon.  His text was, "It must needs be that offenses come, but woe unto that man by whom they come."  There are three churches in the place--Methodist, Congregationalist, and a Holiness church.  I was introduced to the Congregational minister, Mr. McCunn, and several others after the service.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 10th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode with my son to see the tract of land, consisting of 3,000 acres, belonging to the Fairview Land and Water Company.  This tract is also called "Florida."  The company furnishes water to all those buying land of it.  The tract is partially divided up into town plots, and the rest of it divided into 20-acre farms.  To any one who will put up a house of a certain value, on certain town lots, they will give the lot, in order to start the town.  This tract is near the mountains, from which the water is brought down through a ravine.  The water is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 11th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village and to various other points in the valley with Abie.  Met many people of the place, whom I found very sociable and agreeable.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 12th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode with Abie to Mr. MacBeth's, who, with Mr. Edwin Mead, accompanied us to the Fairview tract.  There we found the only orange orchard which I have seen in the valley.  It looked thrifty, and the trees had a fair quantity of oranges on them.  It was situated in a gorge of the mountain and well protected.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 13th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode most of the day with Abie.  Received a letter from Mr. Frederick Mead.  Observed on the plain many holes in the ground, the homes of gophers and coyotes.  These animals are considerable of a pest and annoyance.  The gophers gnaw the roots of trees and the coyotes take fowls, etc., and are usually heard at night near the house.  My son's two dogs keep them off.  A still more annoying and destructive animal is the jack-rabbit, which also lives in holes in the ground.  They are about three times as large as the cotton-tail.  They do great damage at certain seasons by gnawing the bark off young trees, which have to be protected from them.  They are so swift that scarcely any common dog can overtake them in a fair race.  But one man, who owns several greyhounds, makes quite a sport of catching them.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 14th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village in the morning.  In the afternoon, I went out with Abie to get a load of dry wood, in the timber belonging to the box factory, which is given for the getting.  So many had preceded us in this that we found very meagre <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 15th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went to the hot springs this morning with Abie.  They are situated some two miles from the village, on the side of the mountains.  These springs are much resorted to for bathing.  The water is quite warm as it comes from the mountains.  To me the water was too warm to be comfortable, but it became very comfortable as I became accustomed to it.  The water is impregnated with borax, iron and sulphur, which is said to be beneficial for many complaints.  The land around the spring, about 100 acres, has been purchased by two or three individuals, for the purpose of putting up a hotel.  In going to the spring, the bed of a wide river, which is now dry, must be crossed.  We returned home about 7 p.m.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 16th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Sunday. Attended the Congregational Church in the morning.  A commodious hall is now used as a place of worship.  The congregation has no church edifice of its own, it being at present under the Home Missionary Society.  The pastor, Rev. Mr. McCunn, preached from the text, "Who is on the Lord's side?"  The church has 22 members and two deacons, Edwin Mead and Mr. Barber.  The Sunday-school has about 50 members.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 17th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The appearance of much-needed rain has passed.  There was some frost last night.  Went with Abie to Mr. Edwin Mead's this morning.  Stopped on our way to see a well belonging to Mr. Olmstead, said to have the greatest flow of any well in the valley.  He is carrying water by a nine-inch iron pipe on to the mesa land, to be run into a reservoir, the surface of which is to be 1 square acre.  It is to be 9 feet deep.</P>
182.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 18th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village with Abie, and from there we went to the timber portion of the valley, to look at a ten-acre piece of timber belonging to a man named Carpenter.  Had the refusal of it at $67.50 per acre.  A fire to-day burned over some of the land I have bought.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 19th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Busy most of the day on Abie's place.  Edwin Mead called in the afternoon.  Abie began harrowing, in preparation for plowing.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 20th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Abie began plowing.  Some rain has fallen which has made the ground suitable for tilling.  Sent a letter of eight pages to Mr. Frederick Mead.  Rode to the village in the afternoon.  Mr. Webster came to see about renting some of Abie's land for pasture for four months, at 30 or 40 cents per acre.  The Webster family consists of a mother, a daughter and three or four sons.  They own large numbers of cattle and large tracts of land.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 21st and 22d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Spent part of the time in looking over land which I have recently bought.  Went to look at some timber land about two and a half miles from the village.  Received a letter from Augustus I. Mead.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 23d.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Clear and cool.  A light rain last night, but no rain to amount to anything has fallen since last Spring, about ten months ago.  The present year has proved one of the driest known in California, and the Winter one of the coldest, ice having formed one-fourth of an inch thick in San Jacinto.  The frost soon disappears after sunrise.  The frost is heavier in this place than in those of lower altitude.  The altitude of San Jacinto is 1,400 feet, and it is situated fifty miles from the coast; it is nearly surrounded by mountains, whose tops are more or less covered with snow, in plain view.  Attended the Congregational Church in the morning.  Reached the village in time for Sunday-school, which was taught both by the minister and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 24th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Drove to town to take Lillian to school.  Assisted Abie in making a hayrack for his wagon.  The hopeful signs of rain have failed again.  There have been but two moderate rains in ten months, and in this time every day has been a good day for outdoor work.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 25th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Ice again this morning.  Abie is drawing alfalfa hay, which he bought of Mr. Inwall.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 26th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Assisted Abie in drawing dirt to fill up around the house.  Received a letter from Emma.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 27th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In my walk to-day I found a dead jack-rabbit, caught in the picket fence of the vineyard.  He was caught while trying to get into the vineyard.  Witnessed the operation of baling hay.  It is pressed into a small compass quite hard, and bound with wire.  It is done by two-horse power.  There are four or five men working on it.  Six tons are an ordinary day's work.  Abie raises water by a windmill, which is so constructed as to afford him two good rooms, one above the other.  The lower room is used for storing provisions, and the upper as a storeroom, but might be used as a bedroom.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 28th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The day spent in observing the Messrs. Todd repair the windmill.  Frost last night.  Sent a letter to Emma.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 29th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went to the hot springs and took a bath.  Received deeds for land bought on the mesa tract.  Abie is making a sewer, or drain.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 30th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Attended the Congregational Church.  The pastor being absent, an Episcopal clergyman named Mr. Anderson read the Episcopal service, and preached.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>January 31st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Observed Webster's cattle, consisting of some 500 head, which are daily in view.  At night they are shut up, but during the day they are kept in limits by horsemen and dogs.  Abie cemented the room under the windmill.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 1st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the morning I drove to the village.  In the afternoon I walked to see the excavation for a new reservoir, which is being made by Mr. Olmstead.  It is for irrigating the mesa land.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 2d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>At the request of Mr. Kerr, I went to see his place, of about 130 acres, all fenced in.  He has a brick house, with all the modern improvements, and a windmill for raising water.  Two-thirds of the property is in alfalfa land, and there is some timber along the river.  His price for the place, stock and implements, is $24,000.  Visited Edwin Mead and took dinner with him.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 3d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Worked with Abie, building a chicken yard.  One of Abie's horses cut his hind leg by jumping over a barbed wire fence.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 4th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Abie's colt Dixie was wounded on the knee by a kick from one of Webster's horses.  Webster has sixty horses on the plain, where they live on the wild grass.  Dixie got among them.  The grass is very nutritious and abundant.  Cows do well on it, and their milk makes fine butter, which makes Abie's butter much sought for by families in the village, who are regular customers and pay an extra price.  I visited Mr. Warner's place, about a mile from Abie's, but in plain view.  He has extensive orchards and vineyards set out.  No one in the valley appears to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 5th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Some frost last night.  Call from Mr. Thurston to take me to see a tract of land, consisting of 440 acres, which he wishes to sell at $17 per acre.  Abie and I went with him around the whole tract.  At the corners of the piece he has placed good-sized stones.  It is between one and two miles west of Abie's, and runs up to the mountains.  We returned about noon.  Mr. Thurston stayed to dinner.  In the afternoon I took a walk with Abie to Mr. Warner's, to consult him about the selection of trees for setting out.  We found him very cordial and willing to give his advice.  He has about forty acres in fruit and vineyard.  We walked with him to see Mr. Edwin Mead's vineyard, which is but a short distance from his place.  We returned home about 5 p.m.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 6th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Some rain fell last night, which, as usual, falls in the form of snow on the mountains, on which there is more now than we have observed at any time during the Winter.  In the afternoon Mr. and Mrs. MacBeth called at the house and took tea.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 7th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rain through most of the day, came in showers, but not enough to prevent Abie from plowing.  Walked to the village.  Called at Mr. Edwin Mead's and borrowed an umbrella of them.  Had my account balanced at the bank.</P>
182.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 8th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village in the morning.  Lillian is to board at Mr. Edwin Mead's for a week or so, as Abie is too busy plowing to take her to school.  Made a number of calls in the village, and returned about 1 p.m.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 9th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>A rainy night, followed by a rainy day.  This is the first day which has been stormy enough to prevent one from working outdoors for the last nine months.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 10th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Clear, after yesterday's rain.  Started to walk to the village, but Mr. Fairchild overtook me, and I had a ride with him part of the way.  After spending several hours in the village, I returned through Mr. Estidillo's land and woods.  I reached Abie's about 4 p.m.  Called at the new house, which is building opposite Mr. Edwin Mead's, and asked the cost of such a house, consisting of two stories, and found that it was $1,900.  Received a letter from Emma, and likewise one from Clarence, from Orange, where he is at work, and seems to be doing well.  Also received a paper from San Francisco.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 11th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Spent the day in sowing wheat and barley for Abie.  I did a good, full day's work, in order to help along.  Was thoroughly tired.  A man, who has come out to get things ready to bring his family from Iowa, is building a house west of Abie's and setting out a vineyard.  He expects to bring his family out next Fall.  He returns to Iowa in the Spring to improve a farm which he owns there.  Observed a new method of sowing grain.  It is to ride in the back of a wagon and sow the grain; a person in the front drives the wagon.  It was John Mead.  He sowed twenty acres in one day.  There is a great deal of snow on the mountain tops, which is very beautiful, as contrasted with the grotesque-shaped rocks protruding from it.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 12th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Walked west across my land to the new house being built by the Iowa man, and made a call on him.  Mr. Ryan, the furniture dealer, came out from town to have a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 13th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Considerable rain fell during the past night.  Attended church in the morning.  The text was: "Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might."  After church we made a call at Mr. MacBeth's.  Abie and I took dinner there, and Mrs. Mead and Lillian at Mr. Edwin Mead's.  Reached home about sundown.  The roads are quite muddy in places.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 14th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>More rain during the night.  Walked to the village.  Met Mr. Kerr, Mr. Thurston, Mr. Barber, Mr. Green, Mr. Kerr and Rev. Mr. Anderson.  Rode back with Mr. MacBeth, who went with me to see a tract of twenty acres of land adjoining mine, which I bought at $45 per acre, he to have the crop of barley now growing on it.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 15th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Heavy rain fell last night, with a strong wind from the southeast.  The earth is now thoroughly saturated with moisture, and much snow rests on the mountains.  Rode to the village.  Called on Mr. Barber, and took dinner with him.  Received a letter from Emma.  Abie received a letter from Jas. Rundle, of South Norwalk, Conn.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 16th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rainy weather still continues.  Rode out with Mr. Thurston to look at land.  Wrote letters to Cristy, Emma and Clarence.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 17th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Weather clear and cool after the rain.  Started to walk to the village, but got a ride part of the way.  Observed that Mr. Olmstead had started the engine to pump <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 18th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Spent the day in sowing barley.  Sowed about six acres.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 19th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Clear and cool.  In the morning I rode to the village with Abie.  In the afternoon I walked out to the west on the mesa land.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 20th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Some frost.  Abie's horses needed rest, so we didn't go to church to-day.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 21st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Walked to the village and back, a distance of three miles each way, which took me three and a half hours.  Found the Tribune, from Emma, in the postoffice.  In the afternoon I walked out on the mesa land, and toward evening I saw such large flocks of wild geese flying northward as I have never seen before.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 22d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Sowed barley in the forenoon.  After dinner walked over to see some land belonging to Mr. Mitchel, which is being plowed.  Stopped on my way to see the Iowa man.  A Mrs. Seaman and daughter called on Mrs. Mead, also Sarah Mead, daughter of Edwin Mead.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 23d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Walked to the village and back.  Abie hard at work plowing.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 24th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Busy about the place.  Called at Mr. Butler's.  Noticed the clouds resting below the mountain tops, obscuring them from view.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 25th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In the morning I walked to the village and back.  In the afternoon I walked over to one of the mountains and climbed to its top.  Part of the mountain is included in land that I own.  Observed on its sides quails in great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 26th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Assisted in work about the place.  In the afternoon I rode to the village and met several real estate agents, who had land to sell in larger or smaller quantities.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 27th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Attended church in the morning.  Mr. McCunn preached on "Sowing the Seed."  The subject was probably suggested by the season, which is the sowing time for this part of the country.  He preaches in Paris, about sixteen miles distant, on Sunday evenings, and he gave out notice that a church was to be formed there to-day.  Afternoon and evening I rested at home.  The weather is getting quite dry again.  Smallpox has broken out in Los Angeles, and a man took it there and died about eight miles from this place.  It has caused some alarm.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>February 28th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Walked to the village.  Took dinner at the Glendale Hotel.  Bought two lots, with a house on one of them, in the village, each 60x150 feet; price, $500; near the centre of the village.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 1st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Sowed six acres of barley.  Finished about 3 p.m.  Mr. Ryan came out again to-day, with his greyhounds, in a wagon, after jack-rabbits.  Abie is harrowing in barley.  The roads are growing quite dusty.  Received two newspapers from Emma.  In sowing barley to-day I came across a large snake stretched out in one of the furrows.  He was of beautiful colors.  Having no means of making a successful combat with him, I told him that if he would not molest me I would not molest him, so I passed on sowing barley.  But when I came in calling distance of Abie, I told him to bring some weapon, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 2d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Walked to the village.  Rode out with several real estate agents to look at different pieces of land which they had to sell.  My time was thus occupied from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.  Abie bought a span of three-year-old black mares somewhere below the village, with a good double harness, for $375.  I rode with Dr. Merchant to see a tract of woodland which runs down to the box factory.  There is a flowing well on it, and it is fenced in.  There is another tract, which was a part of this, lying on the south.  This is also for sale.  It has a house on it, with some fruit.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 3d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Signs of rain have failed.  Abie is trying his new team at the plow.  Two of the Websters rode from their large herd of cattle to the house for a drink of water.  They were accompanied by their six dogs, which not only keep the cattle together, but also catch jack-rabbits.  They had two which were caught that day.  A Mr. Barrett, who was with us to-day, says that the best hotel in San Diego is the Commercial.  In my walk to-day I saw large quantities of white sage bordering the mountains.  It is from the flower of this that the bees are said to make their best honey, for which Southern California is noted.  Its excellence I can attest to from experience.  It is often as low here as 4 cents per pound.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 4th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Walked to the village in the morning.  Mr. Warner called on me to-day to see if he couldn't borrow some money.  There seems to be considerable activity in the sale of real estate at this time, caused, no doubt, by a rumor of a railroad coming into the place.  This is uncertain, and may be a premature report, but it all helps the sale of real estate, which is the leading business of the place.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 5th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Abie went to Beaumont early this morning to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 6th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>All nature seems to raise our thoughts to the great Creator of all, especially so in presence of mountains in their grandeur.  And shall not man, the noblest of all His works, praise Him?  I attended church in the morning.  The pastor preached from the text, "I am the Rose of Sharon," showing how Christ resembles the rose in comparison.  He spiritualized the subject.  Wild geese continue their flight to the north in vast numbers, taking advantage of a fair southerly wind.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 7th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village in the morning with Abie, who brought back with him fifty posts for fencing.  Wild geese continue to fly, giving warning of their approach by their peculiar quack.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 8th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village in the morning.  Took dinner at the French Restaurant.  The family to whom I have rented my cottage in the village has moved in.  Rode out with Mr. Kerr, the agent of the land company, to see some land which is laid out for a town on the mesa.  But the expectation of securing an artesian well having failed, after sinking a drill 900 feet, the place has not built up.  Rode with him to see other 20-acre plots in that neighborhood, toward the mountains.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 9th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village and bought two more village lots.  Price, $310 for the two.  Spent the day in the village.  Called on Mr. MacBeth and took dinner with him.  After dinner I took a ride with a real estate agent, Mr. Beal, to view land <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 10th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Took a walk over the mountains, and also over my 160-acre tract.  From the top of the mountain I had a fine view over the valley and surrounding country.  Called on a man named Swope, who has a residence in one of the notches of this mountain.  He came here on account of his health, which is quite poor; he appears to have consumption.  He came from Missouri.  His aged father and some of his sisters are with him.  On his place is a spring, coming from the base of the mountain, of no very great flow, but said to be perennial.  This Mr. Swope is of the opinion that the chief village of the valley will ultimately be on the mesa land.  This has almost invariably happened in other places, the town changing from the lower to the higher elevation.  He also thinks that the spring on his place is forced up through seams from some subterranean river.  A man by the name of Dodd, from Glenview, who has bought a lot of barley and barley hay from Abie, came to-day to take a load of it.  Mr. W. W. Willard, who had been staying at Compton, Cal., came to Abie's this evening.  He was in poor health, and desired to make a beneficial change of locality, further from the ocean.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 11th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Sowed the lawn in front of the house this morning.  Rode with Abie and Mr. Willard to the village.  Mrs. Miller and Mrs. Lamb spent the day at Abie's.  They are neighbors living about six miles south, in the valley.  They were sociable, intelligent ladies.  Rode to the village in the afternoon.  A Mr. Blackman, from Kansas City, who had bought a five-acre plot of unimproved ground in the village, wishes to sell it to me.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 12th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went with Abie to get a load of alfalfa.  I loaded it, and found by weight we had 2,600 pounds.  Signs of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 13th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Mr. Willard and I rode to church together.  None of the rest of the family attended.  Mr. McCunn's text was, "Arise, thou that sleepeth, and Christ will give thee life."  The morning is clear and cool, but grows warmer as the day advances.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 14th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Drove to the village, and spent most of the day there; walked back.  Sent a letter to Augustus I. Mead.  Took dinner at the Glendale Hotel.  Went to see a place of five acres in a grove near the brick kilns.  Mrs. Mead, in riding the horse Kate after the cows, got a fall.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 15th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village with Abie and Mr. Willard.  Came back by way of the box factory to look for firewood.  Bought five acres of land in the woods, near the brick kilns, with house, barn and outbuildings on it.  On the track are about 100 large forest trees.  Vast flocks of wild geese continue to fly over the valley in the same direction as before.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 16th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village in the morning.  Spent the afternoon in making trenches for water around the alfalfa patch.  In the evening we attended a supper given by the ladies for the purpose of paying for a plot, bought to build a Congregational church on.  It was largely attended.  Many who attended did not belong to that society.  The ladies did themselves great credit.  Price of supper, 50 cents each.  The net proceeds amounted to $80.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 17th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went to the village in the morning.  Returned by way of Mr. Inwall's alfalfa stacks, to assist Abie in loading <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 18th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went to the village in the morning.  Rode about the valley with real estate agents.  Took Mr. Blackman's contract off his hands for the block in the village, at the price which he had agreed upon, $2,200.  Paid $300 down, and the balance due any time before February.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 19th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Spent most of the day at the village.  Took dinner at the Glendale Hotel.  Returned with Abie in the evening.  Mr. Willard appears to be slightly better.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 20th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Attended church in the morning.  Mr. McCunn preached on the subject of the Children of Israel giving one-tenth of their income.  He thought, with other requirements, this amounted to one-quarter.  In the afternoon rode down with Abie and family and Mr. Willard to Mr. Lamb's.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 21st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>About the place in the morning.  Walked to the village, and rode back.  Sent a letter to Mr. Frederick Mead. No. 1 West 58th street, New York City.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 22d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>A heavy easterly gale began blowing last evening, and continued through the day with increasing strength driving the dust-like clouds through the air.  It was unobstructed in its course across the plains until it reached the mountains.  People mostly kept within doors, but Abie and I rode to the village and plowed a furrow on the line of my village lots, and did a little repairing on my stable.  Returned about 11 a.m.  Went to work with Abie to brace the roof of his barn to prevent its blowing off.  Abie bought a riding plow from Mr. Gaston, for which he paid $45, and brought it home.  In the evening I received a letter from the Rev. Thomas B. Palmer of Fall Brook.  Saw notice of the death of Harry Peck, of Greenwich, Ct., who died suddenly on the 14th.</P>
182.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 23d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Yesterday's gale was the heaviest ever experienced here, according to those who have lived in the valley thirty years.  The roar in the mountains, as we heard it, might be compared to several trains of cars, or thunder, as it was heard in the valley.  Two or three frail barns were blown down.  Abie is setting out strawberry plants, shrubbery and trees.  Had the bounds of my block in the village defined.  Call in the evening from Mr. MacBeth.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 24th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Signs of rain have again failed.  Call from Mr. Smyers, a real estate agent, with a Mr. Tucker, from Boston.  Abie is trying his second-hand riding plow.  Lillian brought home a young goat, which somebody gave her in the village.  Received a letter and papers from Emma.  The family, with Mr. Willard, drove to the village.  Mr. Willard wished to consult a doctor.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 25th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The sun looks somewhat watery.  Rain is greatly needed for vegetation.  Took a walk out on the mesa with Mr. Willard for about half a mile.  He had to stop frequently to gain his breath.  Spent some time in watering the lawn and the alfalfa.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 26th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>A moist, misty morning, equal to a light shower.  Busy about the place in the morning.  In the afternoon drove to the village.  Received a deed for my town block and paid the balance due on it.  Went with Rev. Mr. Anderson to my lot in the woods to have the bounds defined.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 27th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The nights are cool, as usual, but as the sun comes up it grows warmer.  Attended church in the morning Mr. McCunn preached on the character of Joseph.  He said that, though he was not particularly sensitive, yet when he was quite young he could not read the story of Joseph without bringing tears to his eyes.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 28th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>In accordance with a previous arrangement, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:Mr. MacBeth came, with his buggy, about 10 o'clock this morning, to go with me to the village of Fall Brook, about forty-five miles on the California Southern road.  Mrs. Mead and Willard drove to the village.  Passed around from Abie's to the north of the mountain, and drove through the next valley, called Pleasant Valley, where there are several houses and ranches.  The next valley we came to was Don Magolia's Valley.  He keeps large herds and supplies San Jacinto butchers with beef cattle.  Here we passed on, through a gate, in a southwesterly course, until we came to a ranch, where we found water and a barn is which to feed our horse, and eat our lunch.  The man of the house treated us very hospitably.  After an hour's stop we passed on our way.  This place is said to be fifteen miles from San Jacinto.  We drove on at a steady gait of four or five miles per hour, until we reached Temecula, which place we reached at about 3 p.m.  This is a railroad station on the California Southern Railroad, and the largest and greatest business place on our line to Fall Brook.  After leaving this place and traveling about two miles, we entered a narrow gorge in the mountains, extending about three miles.  The road, though narrow and of short turns, was well worked.  After passing through this, we reached a village of a few houses and a small schoolhouse.  From this place to Fall Brook we passed, here and there, a dwelling, but previous to this we had seen immense herds of sheep and swine on our route.  We also observed considerable horehound growing, and also wild flowers of various shapes and hues, and the general appearance of vegetation shows us that we have got beyond where there is frost, and where there is more moisture.  The soil on this route appears to be unadapted to alfalfa, and flowing wells could probably not be obtained, but water can be obtained by digging to the depth of six to eighty feet, and from the broken, hilly character of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 29th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>I omitted to mention that we called on the Rev. Mr. Palmer last evening, who came this morning, according to agreement, with his horse and carriage, to take us to see a place about three miles distant, of 150 acres, with large quantities of fruit of all kinds; probably more extensive than any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 30th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>This morning we continued our walk of last evening about the place.  After breakfast, took a walk with Mr. Johnson to see a forty-acre piece of land about one and one-fourth miles south of the village, on a hill.  This he wishes to sell.  It appears to be cheap at the price at which it was offered.  After some consultation between Mr. MacBeth and myself, we concluded to purchase it.  We left the place on our return to San Jacinto at 9 a.m., over the same road which we passed in coming out.  Having gained some familiarity with it, it did not seem quite as bad as before.  Reached San Jacinto about 6 p.m.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>March 31st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Arose as usual, not feeling at all fatigued by yesterday's journey.  Went to the village in the afternoon, and found papers from Emma.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 1st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went to the village in the morning.  Sent seven deeds to San Diego to be recorded with the County Clerk.  Had my bankbook balanced at the San Jacinto bank.  Also sent a deed for Mr. MacBeth, and one for Mr. Underwood, from Pasadena.  In the afternoon I assisted Abie in setting out fruit trees and grape settings.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 2d</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P> Spent the day in setting out grape vines and irrigating trees, etc.  Rain threatens this evening.  Mr. Willard's trunk arrived from Compton.  Lillian's pet kid improves finely, and is quite cunning.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 3d.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Attended church in the morning.  Mr. McCunn's subject was on Nathan, the leper.  Willard did not attend church this Sunday or the Sunday before.  Abie's windmill brings large quantities of water, sufficient for all purposes.  Much of it is conducted about in ditches, for irrigating the soil.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 4th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>A moist, foggy morning.  Received a letter from A. I. Mead; a paper from Clarence, and one from Emma, containing a copy of Oliver Mead's will.  Abie got a load of wood.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 5th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Assisted Abie in building a post and board and wire fence, and in irrigating.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 6th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Went with Abie to the box factory to get a load of wood, which is all prepared for burning in the stove.  Returned about 9 a.m.  In the afternoon worked at fence and irrigating.</P>
182.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 7th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Received a letter from Frederick Mead.  Received a deed from Mr. MacBeth for the twenty-acre piece.  Irrigated trees till a shower came in the evening.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 8th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>About three-eighths of an inch of rain fell last evening.  Rode to the village in the morning.  Sent a San Jacinto paper to Col. T. A. Mead, also one to Augustus I. Mead.  Willard went to the village to see his doctor.  Returned by way of the Stoddard place in order to see it.  It is on Central avenue and is for sale.  In the afternoon hoed potatoes and strawberries in the garden, etc.  Abie put wire doors on his house to keep flies out.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 9.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Some more rain last night, which continued during the forenoon.  Abie oiled harness.  I overhauled papers and put things in order generally.  Willard is not feeling as well as usual.  Rode to the village in the afternoon.  Found a letter in the office from Clarence, who is still in Orange.  Left the deed from Mr. MacBeth with Mr. Kerr, to be sent to San Diego to be recorded in the county records.  Bought stamped envelopes.  Saw Mr. MacBeth about going to Fall Brook again, to finish up matters concerning the forty-acre tract of land we bought there together.  Quite a cool snap.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 10th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Damp and chilly day.  None of us went to church.  Fire was kept in the fireplace, principally on Willard's account.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 11th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Yesterday's strong, damp wind has ceased but little.  Signs of more rain.  Abie had a fine colt added to his stock last night.  Rode to the village and back this morning.  Had an application to rent my cottage in the village.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 12th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village with a Mr. Clark, who called at Abie's, and I walked back.  While in town agreed on the rent of the cottage.  Mr. Edwin Mead, wife and daughter Sarah, spent the day till about 3 p. m., at Abie's.  Received a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 13th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village and repaired the roof of my barn.  Drew $275 out of the bank to pay for my half of the lot at Fall Brook.  Lease made out and signed for the lease of my house by W. H. Green, revokable by either of us by giving fifteen days' notice in writing.  Rent, $8 per month, in advance.  Returned by walking from the village.  Abie is painting his house.  Most of Abie's young trees are putting out buds and leaves, promising to live and grow.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 14th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Light rain last night.  Left at 7 a.m. with Mr. MacBeth for Fall Brook to attend to unfinished business there.  Proceeded on our way over the plains and over the same route we traveled before.  Rain soon came upon us, but having a top buggy, we continued without any great discomfort, though we had the wind in our faces.  The rain finally came on so hard that we turned into a barn, near a small house, in a narrow gorge in the mountains.  The house was on one side of the road and the barn on the other.  We put up our horse and buggy without permission.  The man came out and invited us into the house, built up a good fire, which we enjoyed for an hour in drying and warming ourselves.  He treated us in the usual hospitable California manner.  Our horse was fed, and after eating our own lunch we proceeded on our way.  This place, I judge, is about three miles from Temecula, in the mountains.  We continued on our way, but the rain did not cease till we neared Fall Brook.  We arrived at 4 p.m., and then went with the owner of the land to look at it more carefully than we had previously done.  After this we returned to our hotel and hung up our overcoats to dry, and having a good fire and good company, made ourselves quite comfortable until about 10 p.m., when we retired.</P>
182.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 15th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We completed the purchase of the forty acres of land this morning.  Also called on Mr. Palmer, and went to see a man who owns land near that which we bought, a Mr. Dorbin.  It is quite a fine place, on elevated ground, about one mile southeast of the village.  There were a good house and improvements.  We then left Fall Brook on our return journey.  The morning was pleasant, though there were some indications of rain.  We found it necessary to use much caution and care while going over the mountains and through the mountain passes.  Stopped at a place about ten miles this side of Fall Brook, called Vista, to call on Mr. Rainbow, who resides about half a mile from our route.  He had a large quantity of bees, an orange orchard and some lemon trees, well lodged with fruit, olive trees, peach, apricots, apples, pears and fine vineyard of a number of acres.  His wife showed us a box of excellent raisins of their own make.  The vineyard is only four years from the cutting, and last year bore many tons of grapes of the best quality.  Irrigation is not needed on account of the moisture which comes down from the mountains.  All the suroundings and soil are peculiarly favorable for raising bees and fruits of all kinds.  We can attest to the excellence of the oranges and raisins from our own experience.  We spent an hour at this place.  It became necessary to hasten, as we had about thirty miles to travel before night.  Passed through some light showers.  Finding an oak tree beside a stream of water, which runs between Vista and Temecula, we rested there for about half an hour.  We gave our horse a bait of barley, ate our lunch, which consisted of cakes, cheese and canned apricots.  Mr. MacBeth had brought a jar of the latter from home.  From here we proceeded, making only one stop, at Mr. Carpenter's to give our horse water.  This is fifteen miles from San Jacinto, and is our usual stopping place when we come this way.  We reached the village of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 16th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Found that much rain had fallen in San Jacinto during our absence.  In the afternoon I rode to the village and collected one month's rent, $8, from Mr. W. H. Green, for rent of house.  Was told in the village that Mr. Estidillio had sold his large property, consisting of 11,000 acres of land, to a land company, most of the parties being from Louisiana, price $13,500.  Returned from the village, after which I had a call from Mr. Stephen Mead, who took dinner with us.  Willard is fast failing.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 17th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The damp, cloudy weather still continues.  Willard seems to be sinking fast, and it was thought best to send for the doctor to see him.  I made all possible haste in driving to the village for him.  He came immediately, reaching Abie's nearly as soon as I did, but we found that Willard had passed away soon after I left, at 10 a.m.  At 12 I left to make arrangements for the funeral, which is to be to-morrow at 2 p.m., at the house.  Went first to see Mr. MacBeth, who has charge of the cemetery, to obtain a plot of ground.  On my way called on Rev. Mr. McCunn, who agreed to attend the funeral to-morrow.  From here we drove to the cemetery.  I selected Lot No. 6, 20 feet square, price $5.00.  We returned by an unusual route, across the plains, through Mr. Estidillio's gates, and arrived about 4 p.m.  Mr. MacBeth came back with me, and we found his wife and Miss Sarah Mead there.  Mr. and Mrs. MacBeth returned home, but left Miss Mead, who remained till after the funeral, to assist Mrs. Mead. Mr. MacBeth kindly agreed to supply conveyance for the coffin, and to attend to having the grave dug, which was done by his brothers-in-law, John and Stephen Mead.  Mr. Butler, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:neighbor prepared the body for burial, and kindly offered to sit up half the night.  He came accordingly, at about 8 p.m., but it was thought best to dispense with any watch, so he returned home about 10 p.m., and we all retired as usual.  The deceased's name was William W. Willard, aged 25 years, and had no nearer relatives than cousins.  He was a most estimable, worthy and able young lawyer of New York city.  His complaint was catarrhal bronchial consumption, as pronounced by his doctor.  He came to California in hope of being benefited by the climate.  He had suffered from this trouble for about six years, and the disease had so fastened itself upon him that it had doubtless become incurable.  On his way from New York he stopped at New Orleans for nine days, where he contracted a cold, which much aggravated his complaint, so that he was unable to speak in a louder tone than a whisper.  He spent a few weeks at first in Compton, Cal.  Receiving no benefit he decided to try a town further inland, and being acquainted with Abie and his wife, he wrote to them, asking if he might come there.  They invited him to come.  He reached there March 10th.  For some weeks he seemed to grow no worse, but fully held his own while the dry, clear weather lasted.  But after this, a damp, wet, chilly spell of weather came, which shut him in from walking and driving in the open air, and he gradually grew worse.  This weather continued about a week or ten days, and he died on the last day.  The next day of the funeral, it became clear and salubrious and continued so.  His characteristics were those of a dignified, kind gentleman, always the same.  Polite without affectation, with a clear discriminating mind which was well stored with legal knowledge, a person rarely to be equaled in these respects.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"So fades the Summer cloud away,<LB>So dies the wave along the shore."<LB></HI>
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182.sgm:<P>Last evening Miss Sarah Mead wrote several letters to different friends.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 18th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>During the morning I assisted in getting ready for the funeral.  The day being fine, there was a large attendance at the funeral, consisting of the best people in town.  There were two deacons and a Sabbath-school superintendent.  The text Mr. McCunn preached from was: "Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord, for they rest from their labors, and their works do follow them."  Three hymns were sung by a quartet from the choir.  One hymn was, "Nearer, My God, to Thee."  The service was very appropriate.  Fourteen carriages made up the procession to the grave, where we laid the body quietly to rest.  A beautiful wreath and two other floral decorations were presented by the ladies and laid on the grave.  We returned home about 6 p.m.  On our return, and within a half mile of Abie's house, we saw a wild animal the size of a large dog.  Within a few days I have seen flocks of birds which are new to me.  They belong to the blackbird family and are very beautiful.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 19th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>It is bright, clear weather, which promises to be permanent.  Another colt was found this morning.  Went to the mountain for stone to place at the corners of the tract of land near the brick yard.  Also did the same with my two tracts on the mesa land.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 20th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Arose early and drove to the village to bring up a squaw, whom Mrs. Mead was expecting to wash for her, but she did not make her appearance, so I returned.  About 9 a.m. I drove to the box factory with Abie, to get a load of wood, and returned at noon.  As we did not succeed in getting the washer-woman we expected, Mrs. Inwall told Mrs. Mead about taking washing to the Indian village, where washing was done very nicely and satisfactorily, and she kindly offered to show us the way.  So after dinner we set out together--Abie, Mrs. Mead, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 21st.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>This morning I walked to the mountains where my land is, and went up to the top.  Called on the man whose land joins on the south.  Returned home about noon.  In the afternoon I hoed in the garden, and about the trees, and puttied over the nail heads on the house, preparatory to painting.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 22nd.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Drove to the village to consult Mr. Kerr concerning the government section lines, and the land company's lines.  He said we must go by the land company's lines.  Returned about 11 a.m.  In the afternoon I resumed my work of puttying.  A Miss Caldwell, who lives north of the mountain, called on Mrs. Mead.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 23rd.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Mr. Swope came to take me to run out the line between his land and mine on the mesa.  Starting at the east corner of my division, we measured 160 rods, the length of my land, in a straight line.  Then, continuing on a straight line <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 24th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Attended church in the morning.  Mr. McCunn's text was "The kingdom of heaven is like leaven, which a woman hid in three measures of meal till the whole was leavened."  In the afternoon I called, with Mrs. Mead, on the Swopes and Caldwells, our nearest neighbors in the mountains.  While we were away Mr. and Mrs. MacBeth called.  Mr. Caldwell has a very fine spring in the side of the mountain, a few rods back of his house.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 25th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Drove with Abie and his wife to the Indian village, and thence to the hot spring.  Stopped in the village and took dinner with Mr. MacBeth; received from the County Clerk's office the mortgage from Mr. MacBeth; also authorized him to act as an attorney for me in collecting the rent from my two lots, with houses, during this Summer.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 26th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Rode to the village; had bank book balanced and also left at the bank forty-three shares of stock of Fairview Land and Water Company for safe keeping.  Mr. Kerr is to collect dividends, if there be any, on the same.  A Mr. McKenzie, a cousin of Mr. Willard, who resides in Los Angeles, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 27th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Overhauled baggage and papers, putting them in shape to return East.  Mr. McKenzie left on his return to Los Angeles this morning.  His full name is Stuart McKenzie.  Irrigated and attended to various other matters on the place. Abie is working with his team on the road for Mr. Inwall.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 28th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>The morning is damp and foggy.  I rode to the village for the last time before leaving.  Saw Mr. MacBeth, Mr. Andersen, Mr. Parrh, Van Waters, Smith, Dr. Merchant, Kerr and others.  Abie and his wife are busy to-day making preparations for their trip to Orange to-morrow.  Abie and Mrs. Mead rode round to find some one to take charge of the place during their absence.  After seeing several they met Mrs. Hallack and her son, with whom they made a satisfactory arrangement.  They engaged board for Lillian at Mr. Edwin Mead's, which is convenient for her to the schoolhouse. </P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 29th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Left at 5 a.m. for Orange, by way of Riverside.  Our wagon was well loaded with provisions for ourselves and feed for the horses during our absence.  We drove to the north from Abie's, taking a short cut by the way of Webster's, to the right of the house, passing his copious springs of water.  We passed through fields and gates rather uncertainly, but came out about right on Central avenue.  We passed the house of Mr. Pico, a Mexican, I believe, which house is situated on an elevated spot.  He has a large herd of cattle, some 1,200 head.  We then passed a lake of considerable size, and the lime quarries and kilns, where lime is obtained for San Jacinto.  Continuing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>April 30th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>About sunrise, after a refreshing night's rest, after caring for the horses and getting our breakfast, we started <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:at 8 a.m.  I must mention the fact that we found another team and congenial company, who camped with us during the night.  The company consisted of two doctors from Riverside, Dr. Ball and Dr. H. L. Macy.  Rincon is a place with several hundred acres in vineyards, and has buildings for heating and curing raisins.  Eleven thousand boxes of raisins are yearly marketed from this vineyard.  As the railroad is being built from Riverside to Orange, and runs right through this vineyard, it has been laid out in town lots, which are put at high prices.  Going on from this place, in sight of the Santa Ana River, which is graded on one side, our road lay on the other.  It was narrow and cut through the sides of the mountains, too narrow for two carriages to pass.  Occasionally turnouts have been made.  The most careful driving was necessary in order to avoid accident.  Within eight or nine miles of Orange we came to a large ditch leading from the river to supply the valley with water for irrigating.  In this valley are the towns of Orange and Santa Ana.  The water flows very slowly and steadily in this ditch.  It is about twelve feet wide.  Before reaching Orange we camped beside this ditch at a spot where there was plenty of grass for the horses, while we took dinner.  This spot is about five miles out of the town.  From here on we saw extensive vineyards along this ditch.  We reached Orange about 2 p.m.  After some inquiry we found the place of Clarence Mead's employer.  Seeing a man at work in the fields, Abie left the carriage and found it to be Clarence.  In the mean time I went in and saw Mr. Taft and his son, and was much pleased with the family and their place.  Mrs. Mead, not wishing to wait, drove on to the Meads' place, about two miles distant.  After spending a short time at Mr. Taft's, he took me down to the Meads' in his carriage, Clarence and Abie walking down.  We found the Meads pleasantly situated, having about fifteen acres of ground under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 1st.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>A fine, clear morning.  Did not go to church, but rode about the country most of the day with Abie and Clarence, not, however, without some hesitation.  In the morning we drove to the east, up a can&tilde;on, to an oak grove about eight miles distant, said to be a place much resorted to by picnic parties.  In the afternoon we drove to Orange village.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 2d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>We rode to Orange, Santa Ana and Tustin City, all fine, large villages.  Santa Ana is the largest.  The distance from Orange to Tustin is about nine miles.  The whole country through Tustin City, which we passed, is under a very high state of cultivation, largely covered with orange orchards and vineyards.  The orange trees are somewhat damaged in places by a scale bug.  Occasionally a grape stand dies from what some call sour sap.  An immense amount of capital has evidently been invested in the grape and orange culture in Southern California.  Though the thermometer rose to 88 degrees, the weather was not at all oppressive.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 3d.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Spent the forenoon on the Meads' place.  David was busy trimming the dead branches from the Orange trees, and Theodore was drawing off the brush.  There were about 200 orange, 2 lemon, 200 apricot, about 30 English walnut, some peach and apple trees.  In the afternoon we left on our return to Riverside, over the same route by which we came.  Clarence goes back with us for a week's visit with Abie at San Jacinto.  Left Orange at 1.30 p.m.  We proceeded on our way without any incident of special interest.  Reached Rincon, the place where we stopped before, a little after sundown.  After getting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 4th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Arose before the sun and prepared our morning meal.  One of our horses becoming somewhat ill, we had to proceed from Rincon at a slow rate, so that it took from 5 a.m. till 11 a.m. to travel eighteen miles.  On entering the village we called on one of the doctors whom we met on our trip out.  He invited us in, and as we could not stop, he picked us some oranges from his orchard and put them in the carriage.  Abie put up his horses in a livery stable, and we took our dinner at the Rowell Hotel.  I then hunted around and found a ticket agent, who was agent for an excursion party to start from Los Angeles.  From him I bought a ticket through to New York for $62.50.  After bidding good-bye to Abie and Mrs. Mead and to Clarence, I started on the train at 1.40 p.m.  We reached Colton at 2.15 and had to wait till 4 p.m. for the train on the Southern Pacific Railroad.  Left Colton for Los Angeles, passing through Ontario and several other fine villages until we reached Los Angeles at 7 p.m.  After waiting here about an hour we left for Sacamento via the Southern Pacific Railroad.  There being a large number of passengers on the train, there was some difficulty in finding berths, but all were finally accommodated.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 5th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Reached Tulare about 9 a.m.  The train was one hour behind time.  The train consisted of fourteen cars.  We stopped here for breakfast.  I unexpectedly met a Mr. Sayers and wife, from San Jacinto, with whom I was acquainted, and was much pleased to find them.  They were going back to their former home in Ohio for a visit.  Passed Merced about noon.  The car I was in was sleeper 26, Southern Pacific Railroad.  The train stopped at Lathrop at 3.30 p.m. for dinner.  Reached Sacramento at 6 p.m. and left at 7 p.m.  I retired at 9 p.m.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 6th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Stopped for dinner at Humboldt.  There is some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 7th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Came in view of the north end of Salt Lake about sunrise.  Arranged baggage for the change of cars at Ogden, from the Central Pacific to the Denver &amp; Rio Grande Railroad.  Our party was made up of over 100, whose object was sightseeing and enjoyment on their excursion.  They were kind and helpful toward each other.  Reached Ogden at 9 a.m.  We had to wait about two hours to make up a train, on account of the extra number of passengers.  We left for Salt Lake City at 11 a.m.  After reaching Salt Lake City we took a walk around.  I observed a large concourse of people going through the gates up to the Mormons' Winter Temple.  I passed along in with the crowd.  I found the building packed with men, women and children.  It appeared to be an annual church business meeting.  Reports were made for different branches and officers appointed for the various wards and institutions of the church, Sabbath-school teachers, missionaries, etc., to the number of two or three hundred.  The nominations were made by the leading members beforehand.  No one nominated made any objection to serving, and no remarks were made on the nominations.  The presiding officer always led the voting, which was done by uplifted hands, and there was no opposing.  Women and children appeared to vote fully as much as men.  The services were quite lengthy, interspersed by singing and prayer, and an address by their delegate to Congress, who said that the acts of Congress directed against them did not amount to anything.  He gave an account of an interview with the President, in which the President said he did not approve of all that Congress had done.  He was satisfied that the President was well disposed toward them.  Left at 7.30 p.m. for Denver.  We ran through the night and reached Greene River at 6 a.m.</P>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 8th.  Sunday.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Stopped at this place forty-five minutes for breakfast, having run 190 miles during the night, from Salt Lake City.  My watch in California was three and one-half hours behind San Francisco time, but at this place it is only two and one-quarter hours behind.  We reached Grand Junction about 12 midnight, 425 miles from Denver.  Left at 7 a.m.  We averaged eighteen miles an hour without stops.  Our road followed the Grand River for a long distance.  Passed Montrose in going up the Grand Can&tilde;on.  Much snow on the mountains.  At 4.45 p.m. we are passing through the Black Can&tilde;on, sixteen miles in length.  It is very grand and inspiring.  We now have sixteen miles in which to asend a mountain at a grade of between 200 and 300 feet to the mile, accomplishing it in a zig-zag course.  There are two engines and only four cars.  Stopped at Salida at 10 p.m., where we remained until next morning.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 9th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Left this place at 7 a.m. for Denver.  The descent of the mountain was 3,808 feet in twenty-five miles.  The party consists of 120 persons, mostly from Riverside and Pasadena.  Crossed a bridge where the cars had stopped for thirty minutes to permit the passengers to get out and walk across, to see the most grand and beautiful scenery in the world.  Rocks on either side rising perpendicularly for 500 feet, some even projecting over our heads, with space between them only for the Arkansas River and a narrow gauge road.  The distance through the canon is ten miles, and the name of the canon is the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas.  After emerging from the canon we came out to a place called Can&tilde;on City.  Noticed the State prison at the place.  Here the train stopped by the side of three celebrated mineral springs, to give the company an opportunity to get out and drink of the water.  I drank nearly three cups of it, and found the taste to resemble that of some of the springs at Saratoga.  Snow is plenty on many of the mountains.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 10th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Passed many flourishing towns in Nebraska, on what was once called a barren desert.  The Pacific and Western States appear to produce considerable coal.  Observed a large increase in villages, both in size and numbers, since I passed through four years ago.  Reached the Missouri River at about 7 p.m.  Crossed over and stopped at the station called Pacific Junction.  Here I changed a ticket from Chicago to New York.  Train left for Chicago in about thirty minutes.  Retired early.  Train is somewhat behind time, and runs very fast, forty-five or fifty miles per hour.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 11th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Reached Bennington at an early hour.  After a short stop we crossed the Mississippi River.  The country looks charming, as we pass along, from its freshness and luxuriance of vegetation.  Reached Chicago at 2 p.m.  Here the excursion party broke up and dispersed in different directions.  We had to wait here till 6 p.m. for our train on the Lake Shore &amp; New York Central Railroad, giving us six hours for going about the city.  We left at 6 p.m. and reached Toledo at 5 a.m.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 12th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Passed through the "Western Reserve," or Northern Ohio.  It has the appearance of a rich, thrifty section.  Although I have had a favorable opinion of Northern Ohio, still it exceeded my expectations.  We are passing through fine villages and cities.  Arrived at Buffalo at 4 p.m.  Immediately made my way to the New York Central cars, which left at 4.20 p.m.  Reached New York city at 6 a.m.</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>May 13th.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>Took the 8 a.m. train on the New Haven Railroad, and reached home after 9 a.m.  Busy throughout the day.</P>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ADDENDA.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Some facts that fell in my way while on the ship Colon, from New York to Aspinwall, not embraced in my daily diary, the recital of which may not be without interest, though not found in their proper order.</HI>
182.sgm:<P>The name of the captain of the ship Colon is Charles C. Lima.  I am informed that he is a native of Brazil.  I learned in conversation with him that he has followed the sea forty years, and is 57 years old.  He says that the responsibility resting on him is such that he seldom gets good, sound sleep on shipboard, but when he gets on shore and at home, he sleeps through forty-eight hours.  In two or three years he intends to leave the sea.  He says that at the present time there are very few sailors of American birth; they go into other occupations.  Sailors are now made up from almost all other nationalities, and very few of the boys on the United States training ships follow the sea after they leave the ship.</P>
182.sgm:<P>The first officer's name is Charles W. Scott.  He is a young man but 26 years old.  Though so young, very few of any age would fill his position with such credit and ability.  He is a person of great physical strength and activity.  That he should have risen from the position of a common sailor to that which he now holds shows the superiority of his character.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Thomas Wright, the chief engineer, has some peculiar facts in his history.  He is 47 years old.  Born in Princess Anne County, Virginia, he was a neighbor of Henry A. Wise, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>More about the Isthmus.  In passing across the Isthmus on the Panama Railroad, few birds or animals of any kind are visible from the cars.  We heard a parrot or two chattering in the thicket.  I am told that they keep at some distance from the road.  About a mile from the road, on either side, parrots and birds are numerous, and are of beautiful plumage and voice.  Deer, also monkeys, abound in great numbers.  The undergrowth is so dense and thick it is quite difficult to capture them, as one can travel only in the beaten paths.  A class of human beings, but little in advance of the beasts, are seen in great numbers on either side of the line of the road.  They come in crowds to work on the canal.  The death rate is said to be large, especially so with the French population, and greater in Panama than in Aspinwall.  The yellow fever always exists in the former place.</P>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.<LB>The following articles contain some Facts of Historical Interest. <LB>Feb. 26, 1779-1879.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CENTENNIAL COMMEMORATION<LB>of the<LB>RIDE OF GENERAL ISRAEL PUTNAM,<LB>at<LB>GREENWICH, CONN.<LB>ADDRESS OF MR. SOLOMON MEAD.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>"Greenwich in the Revolution," was the toast to which Solomon Mead, Esq., responded:</P>
182.sgm:<P>On the 20th day of August, 1824, Put's Hill was crowded with people.  A few of the noble men who participated in the struggle for independence were then still among us and were present on that memorable occasion.  The people came together to honor these patriots of the Revolution, and especially one who was to be present on that day, the true friend of our country in the days of its weakness and peril, who, like Washington and Putnam, was first in war, first in peace and first in the hearts of the people--Gen. Lafayette.  After some waiting, he reached the hill, escorted by a military guard of honor, and met his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>The last of those who were in active life during the war of independence have long since passed away.  But the names of such patriots as Abraham Mead, who was a captain in the War of the Revolution, and Isaac Lewis, D. D., who was a chaplain, also Richard Mead, Zaccheus Mead, Andrew Mead, Humphrey Denton, Job Lyon and others are worthy of honorable mention.  With most of these men I was personally acquainted, and well do I remember many of their recitals of the transactons of those trying times.  This town, being situated, as it was, between the lines of the contending forces, probably suffered more than any other town in the State.  Law afforded no protection for life or property.  Some fled with their families to distant towns for safety; some remained to protect their homes as best they could; others, possessing no high degree of patriotism, resorted to the expedient of "buying their peace," as it was then termed, paying the Tories a stipulated price on condition that they might remain in their homes unmolested in person and property; while others, devoid of patriotism and tempted by the love of British gold, gave aid and comfort to the enemy by robbing and pillaging.  To accomplish their purposes they even entered the homes of their neighbors and stripped them of their contents, drove off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>It must have taken a quarter of a century to restore the improvements and prosperity that existed before the war.  Could those who submitted to toil, privation, and even death, to lay the foundation of our prosperity, return to-day, with what surprise and delight would they witness the change that has taken place since those dark days!  Truly, they would not know the place but from the few remaining landmarks, like Put's Hill, Long Island, and the beautiful Sound that lies between.  If in the past one hundred years such great changes have taken place, who of us, to-day, is able to predict the changes and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Speech at the 177th Annual Meeting of the Second Congregational Church, January 10th, 1893.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P>After the roll call the Rev. Mr. Hall, as chairman of the evening, said that Mr. Solomon Mead would make a speech; also that there were five persons on the roll who had been members of this church since 1828, and one of this number was Mr. Solomon Mead.  Mr. Hall called upon him to give some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>"Some of the earliest recollections of my childhood are of seeing Dr. Isaac Lewis, Sr., standing in the pulpit, with his spectacles pushed back on his forehead, as they now appear in his likeness in the lecture room of this church.  He was the pastor of this church thirty-two years, and settled October 18, 1786, and was dismissed December 1, 1818.  Of Dr. Lewis and his family I have many precious recollections.  He was a person of commanding presence, six feet in height, well proportioned, a strong man physically, mentally and morally; a wise counsellor and leader.  A circumstance which shows very clearly the high standing of Dr. Lewis in the Christian and literary world is that, a vacancy occurring in the presidency of Yale College, the corporation, in looking for a man to fill that position, fixed their choice on either Dr. Lewis or Dr. Timothy Dwight.  At the final election by the Fellows, Mr. Dwight received one more vote than Dr. Lewis, upon which Dr. Lewis moved to make the choice unanimous, which was done.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"At that period French infidelity was rapidly spreading in this country, probably owing much to the friendly aid which that nation gave us in our struggle for national independence.  Even a majority of the students in Yale College were said to have become avowed infidels.  And it needed a man to be at its head of the most commanding ability and influence.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"The practice of warming churches was not then adopted.  I have often seen a lady pass her foot-stove to her neighbor in an adjoining pew, and complaints about a cold house were seldom heard.  One of the attendants, a Mr. Halstead, of Rye, remarked that he was never hungry nor cold when hearing Dr. Lewis preach.  Many of the congregation came long distances <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<P>"At that day Christian people, alarmed at the progress infidelity was making, and fearing that a time might come when the Gospel ministry could not be supported, resorted to a plan of raising money by subscription, such money to be invested and held as a permanent fund, the income from which should ever after be applied to that purpose.  This is the origin of the present society's fund of about $3,000.  This was before the day of Sabbath-schools, but the Bible was daily read and prayer offered in most all Christian homes.  The Assemblies Catechism was taught in families and in the public schools.  In the school that I attended, the first lesson on Monday mornings was from the catechism.  The teacher, being a pious man, would make remarks on the lesson, which made a strong and abiding impression on my mind.  A visit from the minister was expected to the school some time each year.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"All the public religious services held at that day were those on the Sabbath.  The preparatory lecture on Friday, the missionary concert of prayer held on the first Monday afternoon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>"Standing was the position during prayer time.  The time of holding the annual society's meeting was changed from Monday to Tuesday, to give place to the monthly concert of prayer.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"At that day, with many families, the Sabbath commenced on Saturday at sundown.  Many objected to the name Sunday being applied to the Christian Sabbath, or Lord's Day, because on that day the heathen worshiped the sun, and that gave the day its name.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"In looking over the way in which the Lord has led this church, let us, with devout gratitude and full purpose of heart, resolve, the Lord helping us, that we will transmit a still richer inheritance to who shall come after us."</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>(Greenwich Graphic, 1896.)<LB>HE SAW LAFAYETTE.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P><HI REND="bold">Mr. Solomon Mead Tells the Graphic That He Was at Put's Hill in 1824.</HI>
182.sgm:<P>The article in last week's Graphic about Gen. Lafayette's visit to Greenwich in 1824 was read with a good deal of interest, judging from the letters sent to the Graphic, and one or two old inhabitants wrote that they remembered this noted event.  It was a gala day for Greenwich, and Gen. Lafayette was welcomed with great enthusiasm all along the line of march.</P>
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182.sgm:<P>Mr. Solomon Mead was one of those who saw him, and he said, in an interview with the Graphic, that he remembered the day well.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"I was but a lad," he said, "about sixteen years of age.  I stood upon Put's Hill and saw him pass down.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"He came in a coach from the city, accompanied by soldiers.  He alighted at the top of Put's Hill, and his son Washington was with him; he was named after Gen. Washington.  As I remember them both, Gen. Lafayette was a tall man, of splendid figure, perhaps a little spare; his son, Washington, was a stocky, well-built man.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"They both alighted from the coach and held an informal reception at the top of the hill, many people going up to them and shaking hands.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"The Rev. Isaac Lewis, and his son, Rev. Isaac Lewis, Jr., walked down the hill with them, the father with Gen. Lafayette and the son with Washington Lafayette.  All uncovered their heads and walked hand in hand.  At the bottom of the hill the General and his son stepped into the coach again and passed on to Stamford.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"A company of artillery came as an escort, and, instead of taking down the bars leading into the lot on the south side of the road, they pulled down the stone wall, and, planting their cannon on the top of the hill where the church stood, and where the British stopped to see Putnam at the bottom of the famous stone steps, they fired a salute.  At the same time the bell on the Congregational Church rang out long and loud in honor of the General.  There was quite a crowd on the hill, and the arch was beautifully decorated with flowers.  This event was impressed vividly on my mind, for I was but a boy, but I remember it well.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"It was a great event for Greenwich, and I think that almost everybody that could get out, came to the hill to welcome the General.  Of course, Greenwich didn't have so many inhabitants as it has to-day.</P>
182.sgm:<P>"The Rev. Isaac Lewis had carried a gun and was a soldier in the war, and was a fitting man to accompany Gen. Lafayette down the hill.  He was pastor at the Congregational Church, and his son was also a minister at that church a few years later."</P>
182.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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182.sgm:<HEAD>Greenwich, Conn., April 17th, 1885.</HEAD>
182.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">My dear daughter Hannah</HI>
182.sgm:<P>For some time past I have thought of writing to you.</P>
182.sgm:<P>This life to each one is a school, where the discipline is intended to bring its learners into harmony and sympathy with the great Master and Teacher, and happy will it be for those who, under its discipline, are brought into the right attitude in their relations to God.  Then their true and highest interests are all secure and in accord with His laws and government.  All things are theirs and shall conspire for their best good.  They always have reason to be happy and joyful, whatever their outward condition may be.  Their highest ambition and delight should be to have some humble part in gratefully bearing forward that kingdom which brings peace and righteousness wherever it touches the hearts and lives of men.  My thoughts sometimes run back to your earliest days.  We were then living in the old house.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Of the old house and its surroundings you may not have any very distinct recollections.  I will attempt to give some description.  Its style was that of houses built about a century and a half ago, but few of which now remain.  The house sold by the Sniffin estate to the Presbyterian Society is one.  Before many years they will probably be sought as rare curiosities, so few of them will remain.</P>
182.sgm:<P>This house stood in the southeast corner of our present plot of ground, fronting the south and the Long Island Sound, and about thirty-five feet from the parsonage fence.  The east end was about six feet from the street fence; the garden lay west <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>The house, yard and barn took up the whole of the front to within a few rods of Seaman's line.  The buildings and fences were all old and poor.  Then there was a lot of about three acres extending back to Seaman's orchard, with here and there a few big old apple trees scattered about.  The land was filled with rocks, both large and small, which, when taken out, I suppose would more than cover the entire surface of the lot.</P>
182.sgm:<P>I bought the place of the Seymour heirs, on December 16, 1830.  It consisted of land on both sides of the highway to the amount of about sixteen acres.  I sold the land on the east side, keeping about six acres on the west side of the road, on which I commenced building the stone house we now live in in the year 1858.</P>
182.sgm:<P>But to return from this digression.  Your first Winter was spent in the old house, and a cold one it was, too.  Several times in the course of each night I arose, and, after warming milk over a nursery lamp, gave it to you from a bottle, which you enjoyed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>As time passed on, you continued healthy, growing and improving, both physically and mentally, becoming steadily more and more attractive and interesting.  Those were inspiring, happy days  In the course of human events a name had to be chosen for you.  There was only one name that I could entertain the thought of.  Even though there had been many persons in the town by the name of Hannah, I could not have given you any other but that of my departed mother.  And here I cannot refrain from speaking of her life.  Her Christian character, for beauty and symmetry or for modesty, meekness, gratitude and benevolence, is rarely equaled by any person.  Her conviction of unworthiness, as a sinner, was deep, but her faith in Christ was firm, and the key to her whole life.  Cheerful and happy, without worry or apprehension, trusting with unswaying confidence in an ever overruling Providence, living the life of a true child of God, she was uniformly the most fearless person that I have ever known; even in death, with an unclouded intellect, she was no less fearless and cheerful than in life.  Her life shone with all the traits of the true Christian, which was exemplified still more beautifully in her death.  She was fully ripe for the heavenly world.  She feared only evil beings, as I have heard her frequently remark.  The scenes of lawlessness and robbery which she witnessed during the Revolutionary War, in this town, gave her a greater detestation of the character and deeds of wicked beings.  She was then about twelve years of age.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
182.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
182.sgm:<P>As time in its ceaseless course brought you from one stage of childhood to another, and finally to womanhood, I saw developing in you many characteristics of my glorified mother.  This above all things else made you doubly precious to me.  Consequently, I have been especially careful and interested in whatever might affect your future well-being, progress and usefulness in the world.  And now my advice to you is that you evince, to all you come in contact with, that with you religion is no superficial thing, that it springs from the heart, and is your life--your being.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Actions and demeanor often have far more potent influence than words.  We probably little realize the effect of this upon others.  Even our walk, the tone of our voice, the expression of our eyes and countenance, as we meet persons in different ways, or pass them in our walk on the streets, may lift them to a higher plane and send to them cheer and joy.  But this, in order to be effectual, must spring spontaneously from a kind, warm, benevolent heart.</P>
182.sgm:<P>Yours affectionately,</P>
182.sgm:<P>SOLOMON MEAD.</P>
184.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-184</TITLE>
184.sgm:<TITLE>The sunset land; or, The great Pacific slope.  By Rev. John Todd, D.D: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
184.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
184.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
184.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
184.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
184.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-890</LCCN>
184.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
184.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
184.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>THE</p><P>SUNSET LAND;</p><P>OR,</p><P>THE GREAT PACIFIC SLOPE.</p><P>BY</p><P>REV. JOHN TODD, D.D.</p><P>BOSTON:</p><P>LEE AND SHEPARD.</p><P>1870</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by</p><P>JOHN TODD,</p><P>In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.</p><P>ELECTROTYPED AT THE</p><P>BOSTON STEREOTYPE FOUNDRY,</p><P>No. 19 Spring Lane.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TO JAMES LAIDLEY, ESQ., SAN FRANCISCO.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>MY DEAR SIR:</p><P>When you met me on the steamboat, on the Sacramento River, an entire stranger, as I supposed, and when you claimed acquaintance from having been--long, long ago--a member of my Sabbath School, I had no thought that you were to be the representative of the kind friends I was to find in California.  But yours was a true specimen of their kindnesses; and I have no way of letting you and them know how deeply I remember all they did to render my visit one of the most delightful periods of my life, then, and in memory, except thus to make my grateful acknowledgments.</p><P>THE AUTHOR.</p><P>PITTSFIELD, September, 1869.</p></DIV>
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184.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>THE CLIMATE, SOIL, AND NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, WHICH MAKE CALIFORNIA WHAT IT IS<HSEP>9<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>MINES, MINING, AND THEIR EFFECTS ON THE WORLD<HSEP>38<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>THE BIG TREES AND YO-SEMITE VALLEY<HSEP>76<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OF CALIFORNIA, INCLUDING A VISIT TO THE GEYSERS<HSEP>121<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>MORMONS AND MORMONISM<HSEP>161<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>THE HIGHWAY OF NATIONS, OR THE CONTINENTAL RAILROADS<HSEP>213<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>THE FUTURE OF THE PACIFIC SLOPE, AND THE CHINESE QUESTION<HSEP>263<LB>APPENDIX<HSEP>315</p></DIV>
184.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>THE SUNSET LAND.</p></DIV>
184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>THE CLIMATE, SOIL, AND NATURAL PRODUCTIONS WHICH MAKE CALIFORNIA WHAT IT IS.</p><P>CALIFORNIA is a study.  On visiting it, the stranger is, at first, utterly bewildered, finding everything so entirely different from anything he expected or ever saw before.  He seems to have alighted on some new planet; the points of compass seem to have swung wrong, and the winds, the trees, the shrubbery, the hills, and valleys, all conspire to confound and mock him, and to enjoy his confusion.</p><P>It is on account of what I deem the great FUTURE before California, and the vast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:problems there to be solved, that I desire to have my reader understand what Nature has done to make this State so peculiar, and to give her a position of so much importance.  How different in all respects from our New England!  Here the winds hurry, and scurry, and change, often many times a day; there they unchangingly blow in one direction for six months, and then the opposite for six months.  Here the earth rests in winter; there they have no winter, and her rest is in the summer.  Here we have storm, and heat, and cold; there they have no storms or rain in summer, and only rain in winter.  Here our trees shed their leaves; there they wear their varnished covering the year round, while some of them, like the bronzed madrona, shed their <HI REND="italics">bark</HI>
184.sgm: annually, and keep on their bright, green, waxen leaves.  Here the woodpecker goes to the old tree and knocks and wakes up the worm, and then pecks in and gets him; there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
184.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
184.sgm:the woodpecker bores a thousand holes in the great pine tree, into each of which he thrusts an acorn, into which the miller deposits her egg, and which the woodpecker calls and takes, after it has become a good-sized worm.  The blue jay is arrayed in a strange dress, and chatters in notes equally strange.  The lark sings in sweeter notes, but they are all new.  Here the owl lives in the hollow tree; there he burrows in the ground with the strange gray, ground-squirrel, or in the hole of the rattlesnake, or in that of the prairie dog.</p><P>Here the elder is a bush; there I have seen it a tree whose trunk is a foot in diameter.  Here the lemon-verbena is a flower-pot plant; there it is a bush nine feet high.  Here the mustard-seed yields a small plant; there it is a tree, often seventeen feet high.  Here we have a few grape-vines in a grapery; there you will find five thousand acres in a single vineyard.  Here you will see a single oleander <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:beautifying a single parlor; there you will find a hundred clumps in full blossom in a single yard, amid what looks like showers of roses.  Here we make the Ethiopian calla bloom in the conservatory; there it blossoms in every graveyard, and at the head of almost every grave.  Here we have the thick green turf on our soil; there they have no turf, and not a dandelion, daughter of the turf, grows in all California.  Here the sun paints the grass green; there he turns it brown.  Here you see the farmer carefully housing his hay, and little patch of wheat; there he cuts no hay except to supply the cities, and reaps and threshes his wheat in the fields, and throws the bags down to lie all summer, sure that neither rain nor dew will hurt it.  Here you have scores of trees out of which you make your tools; there you have no tree out of which you can make a wagon-hub or spoke, a plough, a harrow, an axe-helve, or a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:hoe-handle.  Here everything is small; there the trees and all the vegetable world are so large, that you are tempted to doubt your own eyes.  Now, what makes the climate--the creator of all these strange things--so peculiar?  Be patient a few minutes, and I will try to tell you.</p><P>California is a little over eight hundred miles long and over two hundred wide--a territory out of which you could carve Massachusetts twenty times.  Full two thirds of all this is mountain.  For our purpose at the present time, we may say the State lies north and south.</p><P>As you go from the valley of the Mississippi west, you rise till you cross the Rocky Mountains, over eight thousand feet above the ocean, at the point of crossing.  This is the back-bone of the continent.  You then come to a desert of some four hundred miles.  Then you meet the Wahsatch Range of mountains, parallel with the Rocky Mountains; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:then another vast desert, much larger than the first, and then the Nevada Mountains--the eastern boundary of California.  This is the Sierra Nevada, running the whole length of the State, nowhere less than four thousand feet high, up to fifteen thousand feet, with a hundred peaks, each of which is over thirteen thousand feet.  For two hundred miles along its northern part, there is no spot where it could be passed under eleven thousand feet altitude.  The width of this range is eighty or one hundred miles, --running nearly in a straight line, --and the whole ridge is covered with snow over eight months in the year.</p><P>On the west side of the State, holding the old Pacific in its place, is the Coast Range of mountains, still parallel with the Sierra Nevada; or, rather, several ranges of these mountains, parallel with one another, as well as the Nevadas.  This Coast Range, or ocean-barrier, is from say twelve hundred to ten <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:thousand feet high, and about forty miles wide.  Between these two great ranges of mountains lies a great valley, made by two rivers, the Sacramento and San Joaquin, --the first running south and the other north, --meeting and emptying in a bay in about the middle of the State, and forming a great valley, --though usually called two, --about five hundred miles long and fifty miles wide.  This great basin was evidently once a vast inland sea, which, by some convulsion of nature, broke through the Coast Range of mountains, in the centre of the State, by wearing a channel into the ocean about a mile and a third wide.  This outbreak is the "Golden Gate."  Out of this great valley there were little bays and coves between the spurs of the Coast Range.  These are now beautiful little valleys, about fifty in number, and from five to a hundred miles long.  Among the most beautiful of these--and upon more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:beautiful the sun never shone--are the Napa, the Sanoma, the Russian, and the Santa Clara valleys.  As you stand on the mountains, and look down into these valleys, they look like lakes turned into land.  Now, leave the land a moment, and look at the ocean.</p><P>Near the equator, in the Pacific as well as the Atlantic, starts a stream or a river in the ocean.  It runs along up the coast of China till it reaches Behring's Straits.  Into those straits it rushes, meets and melts the icebergs, so that there are no icebergs in the Pacific.  In doing this, it gets immensely chilled, and turns down towards our coast.  It strikes the Aleutian Islands, and a part is deflected and makes towards the Sandwich Islands, carrying cool waters to make temperate what would otherwise be uninhabitable.  A part of this now cold river comes down along the coast of Oregon and California, the cold water, of course, down on the bottom, wherever the water is blue.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>As the waters come near the shores, they become shallow and green, and the cold waters are forced up to the surface; these chill the vapors hanging in the air, condense them, and in the night create a heavy fog, which hangs along the whole coast of California.  Now, why does not this sea-fog roll over all the land, and cover it?  I reply, it never rises over one thousand feet high, and as the Coast Range of mountains is higher than this, they shut it out.  But at the Golden Gate, where it has a chance, it <HI REND="italics">does</HI>
184.sgm: pour in every day, and envelop the city of San Francisco from about four o'clock in the afternoon till about nine in the morning.  There is another reason why the fog does not cover the land.  The great valley, of which I have spoken, is the great laboratory of the State.  There the sun pours down his strength, and the heated, rarefied air rises up, and drinks up all the vapor which the ocean can send inward, long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:before it can become a cloud.  Owing to the position and the rotation of the earth, the winds from the Pacific blow from the west, one half of the year, towards the east, and the other way the other half.  This would be easy to explain, were it not the explanation would be too long.  The heat of the Sacramento and San Joaquin valley, often 110&deg; to 120&deg;, would be intolerable, were it not for these unseen mists that flow over them from the ocean.  These meet the cool streams of air which every night pour over the snowy Nevadas, and they drop down, not in rains or dews, but in coolness; so that the nights, through the State, are always cool, requiring the same amount of bed-clothing in summer and in winter.  Man and beast are refreshed by the cool night.</p><P>The atmosphere is so dry during the day, that the moisture which would otherwise be perspiration on the body, is at once dried up, and both man and beast can endure more and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:do more work than in any other climate I ever knew.</p><P>I saw a team which had been driven over lofty mountains, a distance of twelve miles, three times, or thirty-six miles, in a single day, and not apparently especially fatigued; and I saw a man (Foss, near the Geysers) who drove a stage one hundred and sixty miles in a single day--with relays of horses of course--this summer.  The horses have a speed and an endurance that amazes a stranger.  You would think these rich, deep-soiled, fertile valleys would abound in fevers.  Nothing of the kind.  I doubt whether on the face of the globe there is a healthier region.</p><P>On inquiry as to the healthiness of a particular village, they said it was so healthy that when they had finished laying out their new cemetery, they had to kill a man to put into it!</p><P>In the summer these valleys are so turned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:up to the sun, that everything matures and ripens quickly and early.  They were gathering in their crops in the middle of May.  But the gentle winds that climb over the Coast Range of mountains go over the valley, and fan the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevadas.  From May to November there is no rain or dew in California.  The wheat, the barley, and everything has ripened.  The grass has dried up, all seeded, and still making rich pasture for the cattle, --and there is no part of the year when the flocks fatten so fast as when they eat what we should call the dried-up grass in the fields, good for nothing here, but full of seed and nourishment there, --and the ground on the surface parches, and cracks, and wrinkles, and rests till the fall rains.  The beautiful green of field and meadow, of landscape, hill, and dale, which makes New England so lovely, is all gone.  You must wait till next winter, when <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
184.sgm: are covered <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:with snow, to see <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
184.sgm: creation all fresh and green.  February is their month of beauty and of glory, as June is ours.</p><P>I have spoken of the great ranges of mountains.  At the base of these, are smaller mountains, called foot-hills, in all shapes and of all sizes, mingled and joined together by spurs, very much as the bars of pig-iron are in the furnace.  As you stand on one of these, you see gulches scooped out on all sides, and the spurs running in every direction.  It is easy to see that from these gulches came the soil which has been washed down and made the valleys, which everywhere push up among the foot-hills and spurs.  You cannot climb a mountain by a railroad, as you would one of our mountains, by gradually going up its side; for you would find that you would have to go round one spur and gulch, and far in round another, only to meet, perhaps, a dozen more, jutting out or drawing in, in all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:directions.  In one instance I noticed the Central Pacific Railroad went six miles to get round a gulch, in order to gain one mile.</p><P>As there are no clouds, so, of course, there is no thunder in California, --at least none above ground.  In the midst of this great valley, or land lake, the Bay of San Francisco sets up directly east as it passes through the Golden Gate, and then, turning south round the peninsula, at the end of which the city is built, making a harbor of sixty-five miles in extent, and deep enough to receive all the ships of the world.</p><P>It was a long study before I could make up my mind what caused the narrow gorge from the bay to the ocean to be called the "Golden Gate."  It had nothing to do with the <HI REND="italics">gold</HI>
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184.sgm:like a gate, and as you look in through the fog, you see the yellow sun-light resting upon this fog, bright and golden, just about the narrowest part of the channel.  Here the fort stands, and hence the name "Golden Gate."  It often looks like a pillar of fire hanging over the gate.</p><P>I have said that the summer is so long and dry, that the wheat--the finest the world ever saw--is left in sacks, in the fields, for weeks.  As a fact, it becomes like kiln-dried wheat, and the only difficulty with it is, it is too dry to grind.  The English millers carry it to England, and mix it with their damp wheat, and it grinds admirably.  In California, they dampen it, either by passing it through a kind of screw, like the perpetual screw of a propeller, letting in a little stream of water as the wheat enters the screw, or they let a small stream into the hopper when grinding.  If you ask how big the stream <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:should be, the answer is, that must be decided by the judgment of the miller.  But as every pound of water he uses adds just so much weight to the flour, it is to be hoped his judgment and conscience will both be good.</p><P>As to the natural scenery of California, it is so peculiar that art injures it.  If you want to see it in its beauty, look at it before man touches it.  In no spot in the State can you stand without seeing mountains, near or remote; and very few where you cannot see the long, western, snow-capped ridge of the Sierra Nevadas.</p><P>Now, let us once more take our stand on the Nevadas, and look around.  At the east, lie the great alkali deserts, --once the bottom of a great, inland, salt sea, but, at some remote period, heaved up by volcanoes with this range of mountains.  As you look north or south, you see the ridge and the jagged peaks along which a hundred volcanoes once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:blazed.  Here are twenty thousand square miles most plainly of volcanic origin.  These mountains bear up great forests, without which the railroad could never have been built.  East of this ridge lies Silver Belt, beginning far up, perhaps in Alaska, and running down into Mexico and South America.  It is as much as three hundred miles wide, certainly, at times.  Now let the eye turn west.  You see a narrow strip under the brow of the Sierra, of not much account.  Then comes a strip, or belt, twenty miles wide, of most magnificent pine forests.  Here, in this belt, stand the sugar pines, often full three hundred feet high, and the Sequoia gigantea, or "Big trees," still loftier.  No finer pine timber than that which grows on this belt need be desired.  Then comes a belt, about forty miles wide, beginning far north of Oregon, even in British Columbia, which may be denominated the auriferous or Golden belt.  It has gold under the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:soil, and the most wonderful fruit-bearing power above the soil.  Here the fig yields her three crops a year; here the pomegranate and the almond, the nectarine, the peach, the cherry, the apple, the pear, and, above all, the grape, have their home, and grow with a rapidity, and bear with a profusion, that is almost beyond belief.  I do not believe a more wonderful belt, of the same extent, can be found on the face of the globe.  I shall, of necessity, have to touch upon this topic again, when I come to speak of mining.</p><P>As you pass through these belts, you see the mountains and hills dotted and spotted with pines, with cattle-paths on their sides, just far enough apart to let these natural engineers crop every handful of wild oats; or if you look into the valley, the bright, green, live oak stand just near enough to look like a park of a very tasteful gentleman.  On these hills grows that peculiar bush, the manzanita <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:(or little apple), whose fruit the Indians have for generations gathered, to give a kind of zest to their poor acorns.  The winds that come over the mountains, leaving the fogs behind them, fan and cheer all.</p><P>Then come the great valley of the Sacramento (you are moving westward, remember), and the little valleys, and the Coast Range of mountains.  Pass over them, and you find the Ocean kissing their base, save now and then a little clipping out of the mountain, to create a little valley.  On that western side of the mountain, amid the fogs, grows that remarkable tree, the "redwood," often yielding boards six feet wide.  It is a species of cedar, and is more used in building houses than all other woods put together.  Still south is the other half, or Lower California, Los Angeles, --the Land of the Angels, --where are the fertility, the beauty, the fruits of the tropics; where enterprise will find a thousand sources <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:of wealth; where wealth may sleep in the lap of beauty--a vast region hardly yet taken into account, but which is to be inferior to no part of the State.</p><P>Still beyond, are quite a number of islands, some covered with birds, from which millions of eggs have been brought to the city; others inhabited by the sea-lion, a species of seal, weighing, when grown, from two thousand to five thousand pounds.  On the rocks near the shore we saw perhaps a hundred of these awkward, tawny creatures, one of which they have named after a member of Congress-- <HI REND="italics">why</HI>
184.sgm:, I did not ask; but I noticed that he was very pugnacious, very arbitrary, very noisy, and that he made a great splashing when he dove.  On some of the islands are thousands of sheep kept, yielding the choicest wool.  One man has a flock of two hundred thousand.  There is one great fact, not hitherto noticed, and which is yet to have a great influence on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:California; and that is, the want, the necessity, and the use of water.  During the long, dry summer, without water, the gardens, the flowers, and all vegetation die.  With water, you have a fertility, a beauty, and an abundance, hardly to be conceived.  Hence a ranche, with a stream of water running through it, is of great value.  Hence the windmills everywhere, near almost every house, drawing up water for the family, for the cattle, and for the garden.  It should be noted, however, that all vegetables and trees have a long tap-root, which pierces the soil deep to find moisture; and also, that it is the <HI REND="italics">top</HI>
184.sgm: of the soil that is so dry.  But, after all, irrigation must and will come into use more and more.</p><P>Now, at the foot of the Sierra Nevada Mountains God has provided for all this.  There are over two hundred lakes and ponds, natural reservoirs, where the waters are stored up, --enough to turn a vast territory into a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:garden fair as Eden.  These waters have hitherto been used almost solely in mining, but in time they will be led, in little channels, far and wide, and be a source of wealth far greater than what the mines yield.  The power of water as a fertilizer is beyond anything that we, in this land of clouds and showers, have ever witnessed.  For thousands of years this power has made Egypt the garden of the world.  I shall have occasion to refer to this again, when I come to speak of Salt Lake City.  But in these reservoirs there sleeps a power which will one day drive mills and factories, and then spread over the soil, and create plenty and beauty of which this generation little dream.</p><P>In looking at the scenery of California, we must not forget the can&tilde;ons.  When a gorge is so deep and so steep that you cannot climb up the mountain on either side, it is called a "can&tilde;on."  If you can climb up on one side, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and not the other, the impassable side is called a bluff.  If you can climb up both sides, it is called a gorge.  Sometimes the English word "valley" has superseded that of can&tilde;on.  Thus the wonderful Yo-Semite can&tilde;on bears the name of valley.</p><P>Before the railroad was opened, the course of the emigrants was over the arid deserts for months; and then, when over the Nevada heights, through some one or more of these can&tilde;ons.  Death's Valley, whose bottom is nothing but soft alkali mingled with sulphur, --whose bottom is also one hundred and fifty feet below the level of the sea, --whose length is from forty to one hundred miles, --is one of these can&tilde;ons.  It received its name from the fact that no living thing is to be found in it; and also because, a few years since, a party of emigrants got in it, and from which not a man or a beast ever came out.  Their wagons and kettles were found strung along <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:on the sides of the can&tilde;on, as were also their bones, where they fell, in their vain endeavors to get out.</p><P>The highest pass through which the emigrant went is ten thousand seven hundred and sixty-five feet above the ocean; and there are several small lakes, also, not less than seven thousand feet above the ocean.  Such is Lake Mono, fourteen miles long and nine miles wide, slumbering among the tokens of volcanoes, and inhabited only by myriads of the most noisome flies.</p><P>Lake Tahoe, fifteen miles from the railroad, is already becoming a favorite resort of the Californians in the summer.  It is twenty-three miles long, fifteen wide, six thousand two hundred and eighteen feet above the sea, walled in by mountains from one to four thousand feet, and in places, the lake is sixteen hundred feet deep.  Its waters are pure as crystal, and it is a place of unsurpassed beauty.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>As the traveller emerges from the tunnel on the Sierra Nevada, looking from the cars, in their ascent eastward, on the left hand, he will see a charming little lake, fifteen hundred feet or more below him, calm, blue, and beautiful.  It is about five miles long, and one mile wide.  It is "Donner Lake."  And who has not heard of Donner Lake?  A little over twenty years since, an emigrant train of fifty men and thirty women and children encamped on the borders of this lake, late in the season, under the leadership of a Captain Donner.  A heavy snow, of twenty feet in depth, shut them in the can&tilde;on, and prevented their advance or retreat.  Their cattle died, and they ate them to the very last string of their skins.  Then famine came upon them, and hunger and starvation stared them in the face, --nay, pressed upon them with maddening power.  They could hardly wait for one another to die before they consumed the body.  They would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:kindle their night-fires in their several little huts, crouch around them, creep toward each other, and glare into each other's eyes with a maddened glare, like that of starving wild beasts.  From hut to hut exchanges of limbs and parts of the human body were carefully made, payment to be made when the next one died.  One man boiled and consumed a girl, nine years old, in a single night.  One girl made a soup of her lover's head.  A woman is still living who ate her own husband.  A young Spaniard confessed that he "ate baby raw, stewed some of Jake, and roasted his head."  I have seen one who was in that horrible party.</p><P>In the mean time, as we are told, there lived in the Napa Valley, not far from San Francisco, an old hunter by the name of Blount.  He dreamed that there was such a party suffering and dying in the mountains.  So deeply was he impressed with the dream, that in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:morning he went twenty-three miles to see another old hunter.  In describing his dream, he drew a picture of the can&tilde;on so plain that the hunter recognized it as the can&tilde;on of Donner's Lake.  Immediately they set out, organized a party, waded through the deep snows, found the Donner party, and ultimately, thirty out of the eighty were rescued, though many of them frost-bitten and crippled for life.  But the most awful part of the tragedy was, that during these dreadful weeks, they became so besotted, that when found, --filthy beyond description, with parts of their undevoured friends around them, --they were so maddened, like wild beasts that have once tasted human flesh, that they had to be literally torn away from this food, and most reluctantly ate the food which their deliverers brought.  One German, still living, was found, after being supplied, cooking human flesh, all smeared with its blood.  It was thought that this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:ghoul had actually committed murder, in order to have one more feast!</p><P>Among the foot-hills of the Nevadas, I found a Minister laboring among the scattered sheep, who was eleven months in getting over from Illinois.  He and his wife, and a little child four years old, having lost their cattle, and all the rest of the party leaving them, actually walked five hundred miles before they came to a human habitation.  They are all now living.</p><P>I have attempted, thus far, to help you to look over the landscape, and see California as God made it.  I have thought that this introduction was necessary in order to show you, in filling up the picture, where and how everything has its place.  In the vast and lofty mountains, in their round, beautiful foot-hills, in the bewitching valleys, that sleep in beauty through the country, in the peculiarity of climates, in the gorgeous drapery of trees <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and flowers, in the sleeping gold and silver yet unfound, in the fertility of soil and the great wealth yet to come from it, in its relations to the Orient, --not yet touched upon, --I see a future for this part of our land, great in results, wide in their reach, fearful for good or for evil to the human family, but all, all under the orderings of a God infinite in wisdom.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>MINES, MINING, AND THEIR EFFECTS ON THE WORLD.</p><P>BEFORE the Mexican war, California was an unknown land-- <HI REND="italics">terra incognita</HI>
184.sgm:.  The various tribes of filthy Indians occupied, but neither improved nor enjoyed, her beautiful valleys: the wild horse and cattle, the elk, the deer, and the bear, roamed unmolested.  The mountain-quail called to his mate, and the valley-quail heard no gun: the mourning dove cooed in his loneliness, and the rattlesnake basked in the sun, without fear.  The forests stood as if listening to coming footsteps, and beauty and plenty seemed to be waiting for the tread of destiny.  The indolent Mexican had his rancho, of almost unlimited extent, his cattle, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:which he killed only for their skins, and a few beans for his soup.</p><P>The Missions established by the monks had partially tamed a part of the savages.  These missions were strong in cattle, in the labor of the Indians, and in the rude abundance of a very rude state of society.  But a stronger race was on its way, whose indomitable energy was to sweep off imbecility, and drive out everything that could not compete with it.  After Mexico became independent of Spain, she plundered these missions, took their property, and destroyed them forever; and, for evil or for good, Mexico alone is answerable for the wreck of all the Catholic Missions in California.</p><P>While the Spaniards held possession of the country, wanderers on the ocean, weary of wandering, fur traders, trappers, and adventurers, gradually came in; and though the Mexicans made repeated attempts to drive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and keep them out, they might as well have attempted to drive away bees from the honey which they could not cover up.</p><P>Captain Sutter had a large Spanish grant, on the Sacramento River, and there he planted himself, built a fort, and called it New Helvetia.  The fruit was ripening, and was ready to fall into the hands of those who were ready to catch it.  In 1845, Congress declared (Mexico owing Jonathan some millions of dollars, which she could neither pay nor repudiate) Texas to be annexed to our country.  The war which followed clinched the nail, and the American flag was planted in California.  But not until terrible battles had been fought, and vast wisdom and courage had been shown by John C. Fremont and Commodore Stockton, did the land have rest.</p><P>No novel could be more thrilling than the history of the fearful struggles to decide the question who should own California?  In 1845, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:it was estimated that the population of California was eight thousand whites, perhaps ten thousand domesticated Indians, and from one to three hundred thousand wild Indians.  In 1847, the emigrating wagons over the mountains had poured in a great stream, while confidence in the safety which the American flag gave, had drawn in people from all nations till the population had increased to twelve or fifteen thousand in the whole State.  But now an event was to take place which, beyond all others unparalleled, was suddenly to change the face of a country, electrify the world, and jerk forward the progress of civilization, at the rate of a century in a few years.</p><P>In the winter of 1847-8, Sutter was building a saw-mill on the south branch of the American River, a branch of the Sacramento.  Mr. James W. Marshall, the contractor to build the mill, one day let water into the tail-race, in order to deepen the channel.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:water carried sand and mud, which it soon deposited.  On looking down, Marshall discovered something bright among the sand.  At once, on feeling of its weight, he was convinced that it was gold.  Eager with excitement, he hastened to tell Sutter.  On seeing his excitement, and hearing his story, Sutter thought he had gone mad, and kept his eye on his loaded rifle.  Marshall tossed an ounce of gold on the table, and they were equally excited: they hastened to the spot, vowing secrecy.  But as they continued to search under an excitement they could not conceal, a Mormon soldier watched them, and soon possessed the secret.  He told his companions, who had been with him in the Mexican war; and now the cat was fairly out of the bag.  Warm rumors flew in every direction, --exaggerated, of course.  Gold--gold was to be had for the picking up, on "the Rio de los Americanos."  The population rushed in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:a swarm.  In a few days, more than twelve hundred people were at the saw-mill, digging with shovels, spades, knives, sticks, wooden bowls, and everything else.  Infants were turned out of cradles, that the cradles might be used for washing gold.  The husband left his wife; American, Spaniard, and all rushed, helter-skelter, to the diggings.  Towns were depopulated, ships left sailorless, --everything thrown away--all feeling sure, if they could only reach the diggings, they would return <HI REND="italics">millionnaires</HI>
184.sgm:.  In the mean time, other streams and gulches were found to contain gold.  It seemed as if the whole Nevadas might be only a thin crust over mountains of gold.  A few ships got away, and letters and gold dust went with them: the excitement widened its circle.  On rushed the nearest people, the Mexicans; then all the nooks and corners of California poured out their population.  Oregon on the north, the Sandwich Islands on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:the west, Peru and Chili on the south, poured in their eager diggers.  Then China felt the thrill, and her people flocked over.  Australia sent her convicts and rascals; and adventurers from all parts of the earth, having nothing to lose, flew to California.  The Mexican war had just been closed, and thousands of young men from the soldiery went to the land of gold.  The East caught the fever, and emigrant wagons uncounted, hastened over the deserts, leaving the bones of men and of animals to bleach along their path.</p><P>On--on to the land of gold!  Ho! for California!  Ships went tossing round Cape Horn full of young men.  England, Germany, France, and Italy sent multitudes.  At once the East was aroused, and sent fifty thousand a year, for five successive years, and invested ninety-two millions of dollars before any return was made.  In a time incredibly short, there were at least a quarter of a million of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:wildest, bravest, most daring, and most intelligent young men digging gold.  There was no female society, there were no homes to soften or restrain, no laws, and no magistrates.  From the lakes of the north to the Gulf of Mexico, from the lumber-mills of Maine to the settler on the Indian territories, the whole land was moved.</p><P>It was a far-off land, where there were neither houses, nor clothing, nor food.  As a rare luxury, a saloon, composed of cloth only, could now and then hang out the sign "potatoes this day;" and it was crowded.  Apples sold at five dollars apiece in gold.  Everybody had a flush of gold.  Fortunes were made in a day, and lost in gambling at night.  It was mean not to spend all as it came.  Every man was loaded with gold, revolvers, and bowie-knives.  Nothing was valued; nothing was sacred.  It will be readily seen how it was that this mining population could be so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:easily excited by rumors of new and rich diggings.  Tell them that at such diggings every man can obtain, at the lowest mark, five hundred dollars a day, and all would rush thither.</p><P>At one time, gold was discovered up near Oregon, in the black sand on the sea-shore.  Letters came saying that every pound of sand would yield from three to ten dollars.  One gentleman, who had been sent to view it, wrote that their claim would yield them forty-three millions each!  In two days eight vessels were advertised from San Francisco to the Gold Bluffs.  But the excitement died at once when thousands had been disappointed.</p><P>At one time, led by false reports, a great current set down to Peru--to find nothing.  At another time, the report declared that wonderful deposits were found on Kern River, and at once five thousand were on the spot, and five thousand more were ready to follow.  It lasted a few weeks--but long enough to ruin hundreds.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>Who has not heard of the Fraser River excitement?  This river was more than a thousands miles away, up in British Columbia.  No matter.  The miners were spoiling for excitement.  In March, the account of the mines was published; by the 20th of April, five hundred were on their way, two thousand in May, nine thousand five hundred in June; and in three months from the first notice, eighteen thousand had arrived, by the aid of nine steamers and twenty sailing vessels.  Every sixth voter in the State had gone.  Real estate fell from twenty-five to seventy-five per cent.  Lots that had been sold for fifteen hundred dollars, could be bought for one hundred.  After one steamer had been wrecked, and millions of money lost, the miners, too late, found nothing worth staying for, and so, in the course of the season, nearly all found their way back to "God's land," as they called it.  In 1860, the mania for silver mines began.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:On one mine, --the Washoe, --buying rights with no titles, sending out men who knew nothing about the business, jumping to conclusions by seeing a small sample of ore, hearing great stories of the richness of the mine, led the population to be almost crazy.  Thirty millions of dollars were sunk and lost in this one excitement.  Thousands of families were reduced to poverty; but as a few were made rich, and the city which furnished the supplies was, on the whole, a gainer, I do not see why the same experiment may not be repeated again and again.</p><P>In mining, the first requisite and essential, after finding evidences of gold, is water--water to wash out the soil and sand, leaving the gold behind.  When they first began, they carried the earth on their backs, or on pack-horses, two or three miles to the nearest water.</p><P>You are a miner, we will suppose, of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:poorest and simplest working power.  In that case, you have a pan in which you shovel the earth, and then wash it till the soil is out, and the gold left on the bottom.  But the gold, for the most part, is very fine.  It is mere dust.  Then you put quicksilver in the bottom of your pan; that attracts the gold, and forms what is called an amalgam.  If you have got beyond the simple pan, you have the rocker, --a larger vessel, round on the bottom, and long, like a hollow log split lengthwise; this you put under running water, and while one shovels in the earth, you rock and wash it.  Or, you make a trough, with little slats nailed across the bottom inside.  Here, above the slats, you put your quicksilver, and let in a stream of running water, while you shovel in the earth.  All the day long you do this, and at night gather out your amalgam.  Now, the gold is scattered through all the gulches of the foot-hills, and the necessity of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:running water has created Water Companies, who bring it along on the sides of the mountains in ditches, and across ravines in troughs held up on trestle-work.  Sometimes this water is brought one hundred and forty miles, and the right to use it is sold to the miner by the square inch.  A more productive way is what is called the hydraulic method.  This is now the most expensive, and for the placer mining the most profitable.</p><P>Suppose you are to get the gold out of a hill or flat where the soil is sixteen or twenty feet deep before you come to the bed-rock, which underlies all the hills.  You bring water from any distance, however great, and let it fall, say fifty feet, through a hose six inches in diameter.  This hose must be encased in iron rings, --rings, so that you can bend it, --and very near each other, to prevent its bursting.  Or, better still, in place of the hose, you have iron pipes, through which the water <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:rushes, and which is safer than the hose, which is apt to "buck," as they call it; i.e., twitch and jerk as would a live buck, if held by the hind leg.  Let in a stream through your pipe, as big as your wrist, upon the bank, and it washes it down with amazing rapidity.  Being dissolved, it flows through the long trough, where the quicksilver lies in wait to court and embrace, and retain it.  The more soil you can thoroughly dissolve, the more gold you get.  After all, with your utmost skill, you lose at least thirty-three per cent. of all the gold you move in the soil.</p><P>At some remote period, when all the rock under the soil was melting, the gold seems to have been melted and mingled with the quartz.  Some of this quartz is very hard, some very soft.  From this soft, or "rotten quartz," as they call it, this detached gold comes sometimes in nuggets worth from twenty dollars to fifteen hundred, but more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:generally in very fine particles.  It is the fine dust that escapes in the water running through the trough, and is lost.  I have seen nuggets worth from fifty to one hundred dollars each.  These pieces of gold are found in the sands and beds of ancient rivers, and are as plainly washed and rounded by the action of running water for ages, as were the five smooth stones which David took out of the brook for his sling.</p><P>Follow up one of these beds of an ancient river, and very likely you will find a mountain heaved up and thrown directly upon it.  Then, up and over that mountain, very likely, you will find the river-bed running at right angles with its old channel.</p><P>Although it <HI REND="italics">seems</HI>
184.sgm: as if every gulch and ravine had been explored, yet doubtless a multitude of unknown deposits, remain yet to be found.  As thirty-three per cent. of all the washings is lost, the Chinese, indefatigable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:gleaners, come after all other miners have left, and make it a profitable business to gather what remains.</p><P>Nothing can be more dreary than a territory where the soil has been washed out as low as the water will run off.  Ten thousand rocks of all shapes, and forms, and sizes are left; acres and acres, and even miles, of the skeletons of beauty, with the flesh all gone, and nothing but hideousness remaining.  I have heard it asserted, that the placer mines are about exhausted, and that, hereafter, nothing but the rich companies, who have great mills to crush the quartz rock, can gain a living.  I do not believe this is true.  While capital and skill can gain much faster in quartz-mining, I have no doubt that it will take generations, if not a thousand years, before the gold is so washed out of the soil of California, that mining will not be a paying business.  In the quartz mines, a very huge water-wheel, made to turn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:by the smallest amount of water possible, pumps the water from the mine as fast as it accumulates; the ore is then dug or blasted out, broken into pieces about as large as the fist, then put into an iron mortar, and stamped with iron pestles, till it is so reduced to powder, that water will wash it out in the trough, where the quicksilver lies in wait to catch the gold.  This amalgam, quicksilver and gold, is next put into a covered retort of iron, with a a pipe allowing the fumes of the quicksilver to escape, which pipe is cooled by passing through cold water, till the quicksilver fumes are condensed, and it drops down, the pure metal it was, leaving the gold in the retort.  In this process, about twenty-five per cent. of the quicksilver is lost.  There are about four hundred and fifty quartz mills already in operation in the State, and the number is constantly increasing.  In the placer mines the poorest man may go to work, only paying for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:the use of water.  In the quartz-mining, vast capital can and must be employed.  When the little claims on mining land have been staked out, the spirit of speculation comes in to buy and sell these claims.  I have seen many houses bought for the sake of the soil that might be dug out under them.  The useless house is left standing on sticks.</p><P>As I have mentioned quicksilver, this will be the proper place to lead you to its source.  Leaving San Francisco, and going south in the Santa Clara valley, nearly seventy miles, you come to the Almaden mines, the largest quicksilver mines in the world.  It is a wild, weird-looking place.  Up, up the round hills, three miles from the gorge, are the mines, nine hundred and forty feet perpendicular height.</p><P>The history of this mine is curious.  In 1845, a Mexican officer met a tribe of Indians, with their faces painted with vermilion, which they had obtained from the cinnabar or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:quicksilver ore.  By bribery he induced the Indians to show him the place.  The mines are on a spur of the Coast Range of mountains.  The Indians had dug fifty or sixty feet into the mountain, when first discovered by Captain Castellero, with their hard-wood sticks.  Probably they had known the mines for many generations.  A quantity of skeletons were found in a passage, where life had undoubtedly been lost by the caving in of the earth.  Up the mountain, and near the mouth of the mines, are the cabins of the miners--all Mexicans.  For a time after the discovery, it was supposed the ore contained gold, or at least silver; but a gentleman who procured a retort, and applied fire at the bottom, soon found, by the pernicious effects of the fumes on his system, that he had caught a tiger.</p><P>A company was organized, but up to 1850 they had expended three hundred and eighty-seven thousand eight hundred dollars over all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:receipts.  It was then that a blacksmith, named Baker, introduced a new process of separating the metal from the hard stone in which it is imbedded.</p><P>Suppose you want to get the quicksilver out of your ore.  You will build a brick building, two hundred feet long, the rooms of which are divided by thick walls, each room eighteen feet high, and fifteen wide, and thirteen in number.  In the first room you pile in your ore, fifty little car loads, of three hundred pounds each, or seven and a half tons.  Outside of the ore you have your furnace, with holes, many in number, through which the flames are drawn, so as to heat every pound of ore.  The fumes, which are quicksilver, rise to the top of the room.  There they find an opening of about a foot, the whole length of the partition.  They then drop down into the second room, to find an opening at the bottom of the next wall.  Through this they rush, alternately, going <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:over one wall and under the next, through all the thirteen compartments.  By this time the fumes are cool, and drop on the bottom of the room, out of which, on the floor, a little inclined to one side, the metal rolls, through holes, into a trough, which conveys them into a great iron kettle, holding probably a ton.  Out of this it is dipped into strong iron flasks, containing seventy-six and a half pounds each, and the flasks weighing thirty-six pounds each.  Each flask must have an iron cap or stopper strongly screwed on; and the flask must not be full, else, on exposure to the sun and heat, the quicksilver will ooze through the iron.  This is now ready for market, and you send it all over the world.  Much of it goes to China, and comes out again in vermilion paint.  While you have this furnace and set of chambers cooling off, which it has taken you ninety hours, without ceasing, to burn, you must have a second set of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:chambers in the process of burning.  The chimneys must be two hundred feet high.  After all, the fumes will be so penetrating and pervading, that your men often sicken, and must stop, and new men take their places.  With four hundred men at three dollars each a day, to mine and run the ore down to the valley on a little railway, and to burn and bottle, you make two and a half million pounds of quicksilver, at forty cents a pound, wholesale.  This gives you an income of one million dollars annually.  The ore contains from fourteen to forty per cent. of metal.  Your monthly payments are forty thousand dollars.  As the ore bed is two miles wide, you have no fear of exhaustion.  In the dark chambers of the mine, running in all directions like the streets of the city, you want sixty pounds of candles daily for your workmen; i.e., for twenty-four hours, for so you keep the work going, and it is always night there.  A pair <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:of trousers, a felt hat or cap, and leathern sandals tied about the ankles, constitute the clothing of your miners.  Each man makes about thirty trips a day down into the deep, deep chambers of the mines, bringing up about two hundred pounds of ore on his shoulders, held there by a strap over the forehead, whilst his hands grasp the ladders that he must climb or descend, in order to get his ore to the little cars that go singing off down to the smelting-rooms.  From this greatest of quicksilver mines comes the metal that enables the miners to gather the silver and gold all through California and Nevada.  There are several other quicksilver mines in California, the united produce of which was, previous to the last year, six hundred thousand flasks of seventy-six and a half pounds each, and in the aggregate worth over eighteen million dollars at wholesale.</p><P>The silver mining is of more recent date in these parts than the gold.  The silver belt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:lies on the east side of the Nevadas, commencing, probably up in Alaska, and running south, down through Mexico, and into South America.  This belt is about three hundred miles wide, and may be two thousand, and even more, in length.  It is quarried, broken, and crushed very much as the gold quartz.  Like all that is money, it is very uncertain.  You may have a claim to-day, that is rich and promises well, and you could sell it for a hundred thousand dollars; but to-morrow the rock may stop, or you lose the lode.  You may find it again after you have excavated your mine one hundred or three hundred feet, and you may never find it.  In seeking for it you may expend all you have in the world, and never find it, and you are a poor man.  You rush to find another claim, but you may try twenty and not find silver.  So you buy claims, and probably not one in hundreds is of any possible worth.  Indeed, those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:who understand the thing--and there is scarcely a man in California who does not understand it by bitter experience, first or last--say that it is like a lottery where there is one prize to about five thousand blanks.</p><P>As to the amount of precious metals that have been dug out of the soil of California during the twenty years, it is difficult to form an estimate on which you can rely.  As near as I can judge, I should put the gold at one thousand millions of dollars.  This, if all brought together, would weigh just about two hundred tons.  The silver mining is now in its infancy, but the yield is enormous.  You go into the express office on the arrival of the daily steamer, and you are amazed at the enormous amount of huge silver bars that have just come in, --sometimes three tons of these in a single day!  These are almost all sent off in the bars to China, and other parts of the world.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>The amount yet to be obtained will be, I have no doubt, prodigious; and yet I would advise every one to let mines alone, unless he is thoroughly acquainted with the business, unless he is on the ground, and also, unless he can stay and watch it, with a great capital to invest, and has a faith that makes him willing to run great risks.  The first opening of the silver mines, and the haste with which the Californians plunged into the excitement, cost them thirty millions before they had learned the business.  Of course, disappointment, and poverty, and suffering, wide and deep, were in the path of such a sinking of property.  The effects of mining are most sad on the miners.  In their commencement they had to associate with the greatest number of vagabonds, hardened villains, and consummate rascals, that were ever assembled together.  They had to associate with such, away in a new land, away from all the restraints of home and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:of civilized life, --where they had no inducements to save their money, --where comforts and luxuries were rare, and all combined to make them esteem money as of no consequence beyond the present hour, and hence they recklessly threw it away in gambling and drinking.  They were mean in each other's eyes unless they spent all.  Hence they, as a class, are poor, and I fear always will be poor.</p><P>In the period of the greatest excitement, it seemed foolish to value money, when you had to pay three dollars apiece for eggs; for poor sugar, adulterated tea and coffee, four dollars a cup; for laudanum a dollar a drop, and forty dollars for enough to put you to sleep; ten dollars for a single pill, and from thirty up to one hundred dollars, if swallowed by the advice of a physician.  Even toothache was expensive, when the luxury of having it taken out cost you fifty dollars at least.  Shovels were fifteen dollars each, and a common tin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:pan eight dollars.  No man would help another for ten minutes under five dollars, and a day's work was valued at thirty dollars.  Is it any wonder that the poor miner made little effort to save anything?  They can have no homes, because, as they exhaust one mine, they must move off to another.</p><P>In Nevada the County town and place of holding the Courts may be here to-day, and next year this town may be deserted, and the County town be a hundred miles off.  The County officers and lawyers all follow.  It is not strange, then, that the miner has little inducement to lay aside any part of his earnings.</p><P>One of the greatest blessings that could be conferred on the miners, would be to have a kind of missionary, in whom they could confide, reside among them, and induce them to put their money in a Savings Bank.</p><P>It is a curious indication of the state of society, to look over the names which the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:miners give to their towns and mining camps, some of which have been abandoned, and some still occupied.  I select a few specimens of the names actually given to mining towns, viz.: Yankee Jim, Red Dog, Loafer Hill, Gouge Eye, Garotta, Last Chance, Ragtown, Git-up-and-git, Puppytown, Nary Red, Paint-pot Hill, You Bet.</p><P>If I be asked, Has not all the gold cost, in time, labor, and tools, all that it amounts to, dollar for dollar?  I reply, Not unlikely; but suppose it has; the time and the toil of these tens of thousands have been turned into permanent property.  It is all in existence; the world is just so much richer for the mines.  I might say here, that though the miners are usually, or too often, awfully profane, yet I received nothing but most respectful and kind treatment in my intercourse with them.</p><P>Nor is it to be disguised, that the natural result of an unnatural state of society, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:unnatural creation of property, is to make a people nervous, active, excited, wanting and determining to make money fast, ready to speculate, to run risks, and expect to fall and rise, and rise and fall.  If they don't speculate in mines, they are tempted to do so in stocks, in real estate, and in anything that gives them an opportunity.  At the same time, it naturally creates a generation of men whose activity is a marvel, whose impulses are all generous and noble, who share their last dollar with distress, and who, rightly directed, will give way to nothing short of the noblest emotions of the human heart.</p><P>Now, then, let us look at the opening of these great, golden deposits, in the light of an overruling Providence.</p><P>The quicksilver mines were discovered and worked just in season to be ready for the opening of the gold mines.  Without this, the gathering of gold and silver had been vastly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:retarded, and the percentage secured very small.</p><P>Then came the news of the discovery of gold, and what had been called the Golden Gate was now really the entrance to untold treasures.  The news rocked the continent.  The rush for the mines was without a parallel.  In self-defence, to protect their own lives, they formed a provisional government; and before the infant had time to pass through childhood or youth, it stood up a full-grown man, and knocked at the door of Congress for admission.  It had not had time to be a territory.  California came, the daughter of the sunset, with her garments bright and heavy with gold, and asked to be admitted into the sisterhood of States; and who could refuse her?  The first result, then, was to create a new, strong, noble State, and to stretch the dominion of the Republic from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>A second result was, that the productions of these mines did very much to steady the nation, and carry it forward during a war, unprecedented in the annals of the human race, look at it from any point you choose.  While Government had to fly to paper money, stretch its credit to the utmost limits, and pawn the property of posterity, to enable it to move on to victory and triumph, and while I know how much we owed to the mowing, the reaping, and the sewing machine, and to our factories with their machinery, --equal to the labor of a million of men, --to carry us through the war, and without which we could never have succeeded, still, there was the great fact before the minds of all, that there was an enormous amount of gold in the land, above ground and beneath the ground; and these mines were a Confidence-bank, that did much, as it seems to me, to hold the nation quiet, when the very foundation-stones of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:Government seemed to be torn up by the awful convulsions of war.</p><P>Again, at this very hour, when the confidence of the whole world is every day becoming stronger, that we shall pay every farthing of our national debt, we must feel, that this confidence rests very much on the fact, that we have so much gold in our vaults, and can dig it and coin it almost without limits.  Steadily the old ship moves on, amid squalls and storms, because she has so much gold for ballast.  Every man in the United States is the richer for the confidence, now strong and universal, that we shall never repudiate our debt--an event which, were it to take place, would fill the world with misery; and all this security rests very much on the mines of California.</p><P>Again, that Railroad that has climbed and laid the Rocky Mountains under its feet, that spans the continent, that brings China and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:Asia to be door neighbors, of whose influence I am yet to speak, could never have been built, would never have been built, had it not been for these mines.  The people had not been there, the energy and mind had not been there, nor had the means with which to achieve that stupendous work.  That is not to be a pleasure path for the summer tourist, nor a highway for enterprise and commerce, merely, but a pioneer for inaugurating a system of influences whose greatness we cannot yet begin to comprehend.</p><P>The discovery of gold, and the amount obtained, have given a stimulus to commerce, to agriculture, to every department of life.  They have created impulses that have advanced civilization, and shaken up nations, and poured one country into another, till we hardly know what will be next.  The arts have advanced, architecture has made new discoveries in applying its skill, manufactures have been called upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:to supply more people, and with better garments; and if a few have played the fool by sudden riches, the great mass of the people have been greatly benefited.  If it be said that the silver and the gold have made us extravagant and vain, --and it undoubtedly is true, --yet things will come right of themselves in a little time, and when silver dishes in our houses become as common as pewter were in the days of our fathers, we probably shall be no more vain of them than were our fathers and mothers of their pewter.  It is already vulgar to consider these things as marks of gentility or wealth.  Since this outpouring of the silver and the gold from the mines, we are every way improved; we have better clothing, better houses, better carriages, better school-houses and churches, and schools and colleges, better books and libraries, better ships and steamboats, better goods manufactured, and everything better.  Not only so, but where one used <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:to have these good things, ten have them now.  The whole plane of human comforts and enjoyments has been raised up many degrees.  The last twenty years have seen the world moved ahead in Christian civilization farther than in any century before.  Whether all this is for the good or for the injury of this and coming generations, we can't help it.  The world is shoved ahead a full century; but I am not to sit down and mourn over the departure of old ways and things, so long as I feel confident that all this is under the Divine direction, and that the wires are all held in his hand, and will vibrate to God's glory.  There will be no going back to old prices, and for the simple reason, there is so much more gold and silver in the world.  You cannot bury it in the mines again; and thus money will be plenty and everything else dear.  There is not a child in the land, nor a woman with her increasing wardrobe, who is not far better dressed to-day than at any former <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:period.  We may talk of the good old times, but all times are good, if we use our mercies feeling our accountability to God, and to our brethren, the human family.</p><P>Can we not see now that the discovery of gold on the Pacific slope evinces a strong evidence of an overruling Providence?  There the precious metals were created and laid away in the dark, till the human family had migrated westward from their starting-point in Mesopotamia, till they had a new continent in their hands, till human civilization had advanced, till there was not a circulating medium to move its property and supply its wants, till the world was ready to leap up for a new race in human improvement; then the gold on which the savage foot had trodden for ages, which his taste valued less than the fish-bone ornaments which he strung around his neck, flashed out of its dark hiding-place; and this continent has a new and an awful power <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:for good or for evil, a power with which it may roll down woes on unborn generations, or by which it may bless all the families of the earth, and bring glory to God on earth, and deepen and multiply the anthems of heaven to all eternity.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>THE BIG TREES AND YO-SEMITE VALLEY.</p><P>THERE is a natural tendency to disbelieve the traveller who comes back and reports things which he has seen, that are very unlike our own experience.  We think he must have been in a kind of mental fog, in which everything looked large; or he must have been credulous and easily imposed upon; or that he comes home wishing to be a hero, and is therefore tempted to exaggerate.  It is also an acknowledgment of our own ignorance and want of enlargement, to own that another has seen what we never saw, and can tell us of things which we cannot deny, but which we <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
184.sgm: doubt.</p><P>I am about to speak of things, which, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:according to what we have seen and known, cannot be true; and all we can do, in such cases, is to shake the head gravely, look wise, and feel that we know it all.  Now, I shall not, probably, state a fact which has not been stated before, and which will not be tested hereafter by many of my readers; and yet I shall not be surprised if what I say shall be doubted.  But we have no time for moralizing.  Who has not heard of "the Big Trees" of California?  In 1830 we heard of trees in that land whose height was nearly three hundred feet.  These, however, were the common sugar pines of the region; they were not <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
184.sgm: big trees since discovered, and which no visitor of California should fail to see.  Though the name of "I. M. Wooster, 1850," is carved on one of these trees, it was not till 1852 that a hunter, by the name of Dowd, having wounded a bear, which he followed till he came to a group of these huge trees, made them known.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:Forgetting his bear, he gazed in astonishment, and finally returned to the camp, where men were constructing water-works.  His tale was received with shouts of laughter and derision.  A few days afterwards, having, as he said, wounded a huge grizzly bear, he induced the whole company to go and help him get the beast.  Thus he led them over hill and gorge, till they stood among "the big trees," and were convinced, that if Dowd had deceived them in regard to the bear, he had not in regard to the trees.  If, then, "Wooster," whoever he may be, first saw them, Dowd was the first to make them known to the world.  "The big tree" is evidently a species of cedar, though it has cones like a pine.  It also seems to have leaves like the cedar.  Its wood is hard and brittle; the heart is red and fine-grained, like our red cedar.  These trees have drawn pilgrims from every part of the world, and their fame is all over the globe.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:Noble men and titled ladies have gazed at them with wonder.</p><P>There are several groves of them, such as the Calaveras, the Mariposa, the South Grove, the Frezno Grove, and probably many not yet discovered.</p><P>About eight miles south of the Calaveras is a grove five miles long, and containing a great number.  I have heard seven different groves mentioned by name.  In one grove over six hundred of these trees have been counted.  I visited two different groves, in each finding the same huge, century-looking minarets, towering up in unconscious grandeur, and impressing upon the beholder the feeling that they must be the relies of some former world.</p><P>Among all the groves (and only two or three can yet be visited without great discomfort), the Calaveras grove is the most beautiful.  It is about two hundred miles east of San Francisco, and the last fifteen miles is a ride <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:over mountains, amid scenery exceedingly beautiful.  On reaching the spot, you find a charming valley four thousand three hundred and seventy feet above the level of the sea, and three hundred and seventy feet higher than our Greylock, the highest mountain in Massachusetts.  You rise over two thousand feet in the last fifteen miles.  The grove is a spot of unrivalled beauty, containing a grand old forest of sugar pines, scattered among which, on an area of fifty acres, you find one hundred and three of these Sequoia gigantea of the Taxodium family.  But now you are disappointed; the trees do not look as you expected; they are not as large; their bark is unlike what you imagined; they look as if somebody had stripped off their clothing and left them in their night dress.  You wonder what the matter is, and you soon discover that the whole forest is gigantic.  The sugar pines shoot up nearly or quite three hundred feet, with trunks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:in proportion.  You see a yellow pine cut down near by, out of which, the last winter, they wrought thirty-five thousand feet of boards, clear stuff, and stopped when the tree got down to only four feet in diameter.  Thus you find you have no means of comparing.  It is like comparing a man six feet six with men six feet five and four.  You must walk among them, and around them, and take out your marked tape-line and measure them again and again, before you can begin to get the right impression.  It was a matter of amazement to us that they could grow so much in a single night.  But the height of enjoyment is to lie down on your back in the twilight of evening or under the full moon, and look up, say, ten feet at a look, till the eye has travelled all the way up to the top--over three hundred feet.  We forget, too, when looking at a tree thirty feet in diameter, and wonder why it is not larger, that a pine tree <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:with us, which is five feet in diameter, is a monster.  I never saw but one of that size at the North.  Let us now walk into the grove: the first impression you receive, is, that these giants must be very old; how old you cannot possibly say.  By counting the concentric circles in the tree, some will count thirteen hundred, and some near three thousand--making the tree as many years old.  For my own part, though I have heard it claimed that they are four thousand years old, yet I should not be willing to certify for more than half that age.  You are struck unpleasantly that the names of men, such as modern generals and colonels, should be screwed to trees that have been living and bearing the storms of earth centuries before these men were ever heard of.  Why should such names as "Phil Sheridan" be attached to a tree that perhaps saw light before the star arose over Bethlehem, or Titus besieged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:Jerusalem?  But there they are, and you may speak to "George Washington," "Abraham Lincoln," "Daniel Webster," "W.H. Seward," and even "Andrew Johnson," and a host of other names; or, if you want to address whole States, there  is the "Granite State," "Vermont," "Old Dominion," "Old Kentucky," and, not least, the "Old Bay State," and many others.</p><P>Now for measurements: some of these trees, probably a quarter in all the groves, are over twenty-five feet in diameter, scores that are thirty feet, and I know of at least half a dozen that are thirty-two or thirty-three feet in diameter.  You see that huge log lying near the hotel, whose stump, close by, has a house built over it; that tree was perfectly sound, thirty-two feet in diameter.  Five men worked twenty-five days with pump-augers before they could cut it down.  The stump is cut five feet from the ground, and a cotillon party of thirty-two have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:danced four sets of cotillons on it at once, not counting musicians and spectators, who were also on it.  Twenty feet in length of this log, which you can mount only by wood steps, twenty-eight in number, and long ones too, would make forty-nine thousand feet of boards, worth, at our prices, over two thousand dollars.  But to get an idea of the diameter of one of these trees, take a cord and measure off thirty-two feet, and see who has a parlor as large as the diameter of that tree.  "Abraham Lincoln" is three hundred and twenty feet high.  The "Mother of the Forest," three hundred and twenty-seven feet high, has had the bark stripped for one hundred and sixteen feet.  The bark, in places, was two feet thick.  I have before me a piece of it, two feet long and a little over one wide, or deep.  The diameter of this tree at the base was thirty feet.  Thus one tree, it has been computed, would have made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:five hundred and thirty-seven thousand feet of one-inch lumber.  This, as lumber is selling with us, would amount to the modest sum of twenty-four thousand, one hundred and sixty-five dollars.</p><P>Near by is the "Father of the Forest," prostrated for generations, half buried in the soil, yet a mighty wreck.  His circumference was one hundred and twelve feet at the base, his diameter thirty-seven and one third feet.  The first limb was two hundred feet from the ground.  This is now a knot-hole, through which I easily crept, and after me my friend, --far more of a man than I am, though I am not sure that he is aware that it was my hand that placed the ladder at the hole, without which neither he nor I could have reached it.  This tree was broken by the fall three hundred feet from its roots, and was eighteen feet in diameter at the breach.  It is estimated that this tree could not have been less than four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:hundred and fifty feet high!  Truly he deserves the name of the "Father of the Forest."  Around this fallen monarch stand many other graceful trees of his species, as if they were his children, as they probably are, watching over the great sleeper.  I should love to describe to you the "husband" and "wife," each twenty feet in diameter, most gracefully leaning towards each other, as if, in their age, they felt the need of mutual sympathy and support.</p><P>Then there is the "Pride of the Forest," and the "Three Graces," and the "Two Sentinels," under whose dome you want to linger.  The largest tree yet found in all these groves, is a noble old hero, --charred, bark and limbs gone, yet its upturned base measuring thirty-three feet without the bark.  In its vigor, with its heavy bark all on, it must have measured forty feet in diameter, and one hundred and twenty in circumference, and at least four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:hundred feet high.  I have before me a picture of the "Grizzly Giant," at least thirty feet in diameter.  Straggling hunters report groves where the trees are even of still larger dimensions.  I would add that among these groves are a multitude of young trees, not more than five hundred or a thousand years old, and which promise, if nothing happens, some fifteen hundred years hence, to become very respectable trees.  Many now standing have been sadly injured by the fires which the Indians, in former years, built against them.  It makes one feel almost indignant at a stupidity which could see nothing in these trees but a good back-log for their fires.  Nothing in the future is so much to be dreaded, in regard to them, as forest fires.  These trees are the only <HI REND="italics">living</HI>
184.sgm: things that connect us back to ages that are gone.  Perhaps before Rome was ever named, and long, certainly, before men dreamed of this continent, these minarets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:of the solitudes, unchecked in their growth by cloudy days or deep frosts, were lifting up their young heads, to be ready and waiting for eyes that could appreciate them, when the men of the nineteenth century should gather around them.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"These giant trees, in silent majesty,<LB>Like pillars stand 'neath heaven's mighty dome.<LB>'Twould seem that, perched upon their topmost branch,<LB>With outstretched finger man might touch the stars;<LB>Yet, could he gain that height, the boundless sky<LB>Were still as far beyond his utmost reach,<LB>As from the burrowing toilers in a mine.<LB>Their age unknown, into what depths of time<LB>Might Fancy wander sportively, and deem<LB>Some monarch-father of this grove set forth<LB>His tiny shoot, when the primeval flood<LB>Receded from the old and change&acute;d earth?<LB>Perhaps coeval with Assyrian kings,<LB>His branches in dominion spread; from age<LB>To age his sapling heirs with empires grew,<LB>When Time those patriarchs' leafy tresses strewed<LB>Upon the earth, when Art and Science slept,<LB>And ruthless hordes drove back Improvement's stream,<LB>Their sturdy head-tops throve, and in their turn<LB>Rose when Columbus gave to Spain a world.<LB>How many races, savage and refined,<LB>Have dwelt beneath their shelter?  Who shall say</HI>
184.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">(If hands irreverent molest them not)<LB>But they may shadow mighty cities, reared<LB>E'en at their roots, in centuries to come,<LB>Till with the everlasting hills they bow,<LB>When time shall be no longer."</HI>
184.sgm:</p><P>Groves of Mariposa and Calaveras, farewell!  We never before saw ages of time stamped upon a tree; never conceived in what forms greatness that awes, and grandeur that humbles, could be thus embodied; never before stood before living age so marvellous that one wanted to take off the hat, and look solemnly around, to see if the mighty Hand, that has so long upheld these wonders, is not now visibly upon them!</p><P>About the middle of the State of California, stands her loftiest mountain, Mount Whitney, fifteen thousand feet above the ocean, and within seven hundred feet as high as Mont Blanc, in Switzerland.  Near this central region, also, are some of the most remarkable depressions, gorges, can&tilde;ons, or valleys ever found.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:About one hundred and fifty miles easterly from San Francisco, and about thirty miles from the summit of the snow-covered Nevada Mountains, four thousand and sixty feet above the sea, is the "Yo-Semite Valley," unlike anything else you ever saw, and so peculiar, that probably no attempts to make it understood, without seeing it, <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
184.sgm: be successful.  You will see at once that the bottom of the valley is five hundred feet higher than our Greylock.  Other valleys you expect to enter and pass through.  To get into this you must climb <HI REND="italics">down</HI>
184.sgm: three thousand feet, and when you have seen it, climb <HI REND="italics">up</HI>
184.sgm: out of it again.  We will suppose you have come from the Big Trees, have crossed the most curious ferries of the Stanislaus and Tuolumne Rivers, passed through the Chinese Camp, ascended and descended mountains, till you have come to Harding's ranch, where you must take the saddle.  You will mount a lean, hard-going, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:but most sure-footed animal, and if you can fortunately have Hutchings--one of Nature's noblemen--for guide, you enter the forests, ascend vast mountains, go down long ridges, gaze at myriads of the most glorious pines the eye ever saw, pass over snow-drifts on the mountain for perhaps a couple of miles, and which you are ready to take your oath are at least four miles, --the trail sometimes plain and sometimes lost, --baiting your poor horse at a little green spot on the top of the mountain, taking a lunch out of Hutchings' capacious saddle-bags, which he took care to provide at Harding's, --laughing as the Old Bachelor from New York takes out his little flask of brandy, insinuating that it is <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
184.sgm: superior, and Hutchings, wearying the poor flask, declaring that if ever he " <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
184.sgm: allow himself to touch a drop, <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
184.sgm: was just the very time."</p><P>So we move on, seldom out of a walk, till, at the end of the twenty-five weary miles' ride, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:we look down from the brow of the hill three thousand feet into a valley.  You pause and hold your breath.  You are looking down a can&tilde;on, whose opening at your right hand is only wide enough for a fierce, foaming, roaring river to rush out.  You are looking east.  The valley looks like the opening made by the parting of the mountains, and you almost expect to see them snap together again.  Far up between the rock-walls on either side, hangs a thin mist, as if the falling waters had hung the thinnest possible veil over the valley.  This, then, is the "Yo-Semite Valley."</p><P>You begin to descend the bridle-path, so steep that it must be zigzag, and so fearful that you must get off and walk most of the way, --the path now crossing a mountain torrent, and now on the very brink of a precipice, where should you go over, --and I think a foot out of the way would often do it, --you will go fifteen hundred or two thousand feet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:before stopping.  Add to this--if your experience is like mine--you have, in going down, to pass a great number of the hideous, naked, horrible Mono Indians, frightening the very horses you are leading.</p><P>In two and a half miles you have come down three thousand feet, over rocks, and ledges, and water, and where you wanted the poor horses' legs insured.  You are now in the valley, --eight miles long, and from half to a mile wide.  Through it runs a river seventy feet wide, pure and clear, and about twelve feet deep.  It is the "Merced," daughter of the snows, and falling about fifty feet during its course in the valley.</p><P>Now, how can I give you any idea of what we see?  You will just forget our valley, come back to the place where you now sit, and turn your face to the East.  Now, draw a line at your right hand, a quarter of a mile off, from east to west, eight miles long.  Now, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:a quarter of a mile at your left, draw another line, of the same length.  Now, go a mile north and south of these two lines, and draw two more lines.  You have now three spaces, one, the centre, half a mile wide, and the outer spaces a mile wide each, and all, eight miles long.  Now, turn all this into rock, solid rock.  Next, lift up these two outside spaces perpendicular, a mile high, and also a rock, at the east end, equally high.  You have now a basin, eight miles long and about half a mile wide, and a mile deep.  Now, raise all the country outside of these walls as high as they are.  Now, let this great, solid rocky basin lie for ages, and slowly form.  At the head of the basin, on the mountains around, snows annually fall and melt.  The waters wind and wear a channel till they find the head of our basin, and then hurl themselves down into it.  On the sides of this great basin other rivers are formed, and also push away the barriers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and leap over.  Then the rains and the frosts work with the water, and wear away the rocks on all sides of our basin, till the hardest parts are left perpendicular, or are rounded off into domes, or left standing up in pinnacles, like those of a cathedral.</p><P>In the course of time, this debris of the rocks washes down, leaving a pile at their base some four hundred feet high, and making a soil at the bottom of the basin.  The basin is gradually filled up, the river is raised up, trees are sown and grow up; and so, in 1869, we find it the walled, beautiful valley, whose sides are all rock, averaging not less than three thousand five hundred feet high, --three quarters of a mile, --while some of the domes and pinnacles are much higher than this.</p><P>And now comes the trial.  There is no way by which you can make yourself realize the wonders on your right hand and on your left.  You are told that if these rocks should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:fall, they would reach across and cover the valley; but you cannot realize it.  You are told that if they should fall at the same moment and meet in the middle, there would be an arch over your head half a mile high; but you cannot realize it.  There is nothing but air and the dome of heaven with which to make comparison or measurement.  If you look at the trees, on an average two hundred feet high, they look like mere shrubs.  You have no measure by which you can tell a thousand feet from four thousand.  This is the only disappointment you feel, and this you feel bitterly.</p><P>We are now in the valley, just having descended the mountain, and we are looking towards the East.  The river is on our right, the waters meeting us.  We find eight or ten high summits on the sides, prominent, dissimilar, and peculiar.  We find, also, five or six rivers, or streams, pouring down in different places, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:besides smaller streams that come down like ribbons.  It is the first of June, when the snows are melting, the streams the fullest, and the falls the largest and the grandest of any part of the year.</p><P>As you now move east, the first thing that strikes is Lung-oo-too-koo-ya--"Tall and slender Fall," or "Ribbon Fall," which pours, and creeps, and rushes over the face of rocks to which it seems to cling, three thousand three hundred feet.  You look at the ribbon on the rock, and then the brook you cross, and are amazed at the quantity of water that came down as that ribbon.  As you go along up the valley, you see a mighty buttress rising up on your left.  You are close to it, and yet you do not reach it.  That is "Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah," "Great Chief of the Valley," --English, "The Captain," --three thousand three hundred feet high; top nearly flat and bare.  You stand at its foot and look up, and the last fifteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:hundred or two thousand feet are perpendicular, and you feel that the great mass is falling on you.  You gaze upon it, --so great, so high, so bare, so solid and hard, that you feel it might be the corner-stone of a world.  Nearly opposite, on the other side of the river, and on the south side, you see the "Po-ho-no" Falls, "Spirit of the Evil Wind," --English, "Bridal Veil," --a sheet of water most exquisitely beautiful, falling nine hundred and forty feet, thundering and foaming, waving and shooting out great showers of snowy rockets, as it falls into a great caldron, surrounded by huge bowlders.  Well may it be called the "Bridal Veil," from its waving, feathery, gauze-like veil, as if trying to conceal the face and form of beauty.  The stream is forty feet wide, and out of the mighty spray that rises upon the bowlders on which it is dashed, the sun constantly weaves and hangs rainbows over the abyss.  The river that ends in Po-ho-no Falls, rises from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:a lake about thirteen miles off, and as the winds there draw around the great rock that rises out of the lake, thus making it rough, and having caused several Indians to lose their lives there, and as an Indian woman, in gathering herbs on the banks of the river, fell in, and was carried over these falls, and never seen again, so the Indians have a superstitious dread of them.  "The Spirit of the Evil Wind" resides there; and they will never pitch their camp, nor could they be induced to sleep, within sound of its waters.  To point the finger at these falls is certain death--as they believe.  They hear the voices of those who have been drowned there, whenever they hear the sound of these Falls.</p><P>A little to the west of Po-ho-no, are the rocks called Wah-wah-le-na, the "Three Graces"--huge masses shooting up far into the sky; and still farther on, the "Cathedral Spires," that look not much larger than men, albeit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:they stand up naked hundreds of feet.  Then come the Great Cathedral Rocks, --"Poo-re-nah," "large acorn eache;" i. e., "hiding-place for acorns," --looking like the ruined spires of some vast edifice.</p><P>Farther east still, and you come to Pom-pom-pa-sus, "Mountains playing Leap-frog," --English, the "Three Brothers," --three remarkable summits, which cannot be described, but which will never be forgotten, if once seen.  Directly opposite are the "Three Sisters," graceful in beauty.</p><P>You are now in the centre of the valley.  Still looking east, on your left are the Yo-Semite Falls, or rather three falls, --the first sixteen hundred and fifty feet perpendicular, the second four hundred and thirty, and the third six hundred and fifty feet.  "Yo-Semite" is the Indian name, now given to these Falls, and to the Valley.  "Yo-Semite" means Grizzly Bear.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>Directly opposite these falls is "Sentinel Rock," three thousand two hundred and seventy feet high; Indian, Loya.  It is said that a lady (I wish I knew her name) once actually climbed to the top of Sentinel Rock, on a Fourth of July, and there, alone, took her lunch!  Just at the foot of that wonderful rock is "Hutchings' Hotel," where you stay, and where you hear, day and night, the roar of the mighty waterfall.  You get up at night to gaze upon it.  You never weary of it.  I am told that in the winter, the spray from these falls freezes, and piles up and freezes again, till there is a hollow pillar hundreds of feet high.  Into that pillar the waters pour, and bound up like silver balls.</p><P>In the Spring, there is a moment when the roar of the cataract ceases, and the few people rush to the door to see what the silence means.  Shortly as it appears, the floods have undermined the pillar, and are preparing to wrench it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:from its foothold.  It is giant struggling with giant.  The wrestling is not long; for suddenly the ice gives way, and is tossed up high in the air, in ten thousand fragments, to glisten for a moment high up in space, when it falls and is gone, and the cataract again takes up its loud song for another year.  This white river thus pouring down, the first leap nine times the height of Niagara, seems to the eye to be about two feet wide at the top; but Mr. Hutchings, who has been on the mountain over which it leaps, assures me that it is at least forty feet wide at the top.  At the time I visited it, the river made by it in the valley was, at the bridge, forty feet wide and seven deep; but the wasters were abundant at that time.</p><P>Let us pass on towards the head of the valley.  Up near the head, the valley forks into two short can&tilde;ons, into which the two branches of the Merced pour, uniting just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:below the great bluff which seems to be pushing down the valley between them, but finds itself arrested and chained down.  We will take the right can&tilde;on, following up the great branch of the river.</p><P>We leave our horses and ascend the side of the very steep mountain, afraid every moment lest the foot slip, and we are pitched into the boiling, leaping river below.  We come into the spray, --the Pi-iwy-ach Falls (meaning "Cataract of Diamonds," --English "Vernal Falls"), and are soon drenched to the skin.  Around us are little rainbows, hovering and playing around our footsteps, about six or eight feet in diameter.</p><P>We are now at the foot of the Falls, and are about two thousand feet higher than the lower end of the valley.  These glorious Falls, the largest of all as respects quantity of water, are three hundred and fifty feet high.  Now for the top of them.  On the perpendicular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:side of the rock, they have built a ladder, the sides of which are so near each other that only one foot can stand on a round between the timbers.  The ladder <HI REND="italics">seems</HI>
184.sgm: to hang in the air, and you wonder if your nerves will hold out while you ascend.  But you climb the slats and mount; the wall being on your right side, and space, and the falls, and death on your left.  If you are wise, you will shut up the left eye, and keep the right eye fixed on the wall.  When you get to the top, you breathe easier, and can now go to the very brink of the precipice, and where your feet touch the water, can lean on a parapet of rocks, which seems to have been thrown there on purpose.  You can look straight down the falls, three hundred and fifty feet, and see the very mysteries of their power, as the waters plunge into the caldron below.</p><P>You may congratulate yourself on your great courage, but don't be too self-complacent; for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:on returning to your hotel, a refined and delicate lady casually informs you that she once went up those ladders alone, except her baby, which she tucked under her arm!</p><P>We now go up the river half a mile farther, and we come to the Yo-wi-ye, or Nevada Falls, seven hundred feet; and when the waters are full, as I saw them, I unhesitatingly pronounce it the most beautiful water-view I ever beheld.  It unites strength, power, and majesty with every outline of beauty.  It seemed to quiver in its own song, as it tossed its myriads of diamonds high in the air, shooting out masses of jewels, as the rocket sends out its brilliant creations in the night.  I feel sure that its equal for marvellous beauty cannot be found on the face of the globe.</p><P>In the left can&tilde;on is another fall, Tu-lool-we-ach, six hundred feet, having features and beauties, which, anywhere else, would be a wonder.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>There are several more lofty "Summits" not yet noticed, among which is the "Cap of Liberty," two thousand feet above the upper falls.  "Mount Starr King," and above all, the "North" and "South" Domes.  The "North Dome," To-coy-&aelig; (Shade to Indian Baby Basket), three thousand seven hundred and twenty-five feet high.  Before it stands Washington's Pillar, looking strong, calm, and lofty.  The North Dome is round, smooth, bare, and very beautiful.  I believe the foot of man has been on its top.  The South Dome is a marvel; it was once a round dome, most plainly in the shape of an egg, the big end uppermost.  It is four thousand five hundred and eighty feet--nearly a mile--high.  By some convulsion of nature, this solid rock was cleft in two, one half left standing up almost perpendicular, the other half dashed down in the can&tilde;on below, now covered, and buried, and lost out of sight, but undoubtedly damming up the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:river, and making the little lake which we now find, the pure waters of which are Nature's mirror, in which these wonderful mountains are reflected, and reflected with a precision and a beauty which we cannot conceive excelled.  It is called "Mirror Lake," and greatly admired.  The Indian name of this half dome is "Tis-sa-ach"--Goddess of the Valley.</p><P>Now take your stand for a moment in front of this Goddess of the Valley.  It is early in the morning, and a thin haze covers the valley, and slowly creeps up the mountain sides; the clifts upon our left are all in deep shadow, the outline of their summits cutting darkly and strongly against the brilliant light of the unclouded sky.  Great streams of sunlight come pouring through the openings in the clifts, illuminating long, radiating belts of mists which extend clear across the valley, and are lost among the confusion of rock and foliage forming the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
184.sgm: on the opposite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:side.  Directly in front of us, and about three miles distant, is Mount Tis-sa-ach, the highest mountain in the valley, as well as the boldest and most beautiful in outline.  Its base is shrouded in the hazy mystery which envelops everything in the valley.  Numerous little white clouds, becoming detached from the misty curtain, are sailing up the mountain side, dodging about among the projecting spurs, intruding their beautiful forms slowly into the dark caverns, puffed out again in a hurry by the eddying winds which hold possession of these gloomy recesses, and then resume their upward flight, each following the other with the precision and regularity of a fleet of white-winged yachts rounding a stake-boat, and each eaten up by the sun with astonishing rapidity, as they sail slowly past the angle of shadow cast across the lower half of the mountain.  High above all this, in the clear, bright sunshine, towers the lofty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:summit, every projection and indentation, weather and water stain, fern, vine, and lichen, so clearly defined that one can almost seem to touch its surface by merely extending the arm."<ANCHOR ID="n0105-01">*</ANCHOR>
184.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="N0105-01">Tirrel.</NOTE>
184.sgm:<P>On the crown of this dome the foot of man has never been placed.  Great efforts have been made to reach its summit, but hitherto abortive.  And here is the place to introduce an Indian legend, connecting Tis-sa-ach with the great Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah.  I think you will pronounce it too beautiful to be omitted.</p><P>A long, long time ago, the children of the setting sun dwelt in the Yo-Semite Valley: they had peace and plenty, and the glorious Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah, their chief, dwelt upon the great rock that now bears his name.  One glance of his eye saw all that his people below were doing.  Swifter on foot than the elk, he herded the wild deer as easily as if they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:were sheep, and gave his people meat.  He roused the grizzly bear from his cavern in the mountains, and sent his young men to hunt him.  From that lofty rock so near heaven, the Great Spirit could easily hear his prayer, and send rain upon the valley.  The smoke of his pipe curled up in the sunshine that gladdened his tribe.  When he laughed, the river below rippled and smiled in sympathy.  When he sighed, the pines caught up the sigh, and repeated it from tree to tree.  When he spoke, the cataract hushed his voice, and listened.  When he whooped over the bear that he had slain, all the mountains echoed the shout from summit to summit, till it was lost in the distance.  His form was straight like the arrow, and elastic as the manzanita bow.  His eye flashed like the lightning, and his foot outstripped the wind.</p><P>But once, when hunting, his eye moistened at the vision of a beautiful maiden sitting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:alone on the very summit of the South Dome.  Unlike the dark maidens of his tribe, her golden hair rolled over her dazzling form, as waters of gold would linger over silver rocks.  Her brow was like the moon hanging in a soft mist, and her eyes gleamed like the far-off blue mountains bathed in sunset.  Her little foot shone white and bright as the silver waters of the Yo-Semite Falls.  She had small white wings on her shoulders, and her voice was like the silvery tones of the night-bird on the hill-side.  She softly pronounced the name of "Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah," and was gone out of sight.  Flashing was the eye, swift the foot, as Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah sprang from crag to crag, leaping over gorges and across streams; but he only felt the down of her wings filling his eyes, and he saw her no more.  Every day did the young chief wander up and down the mountains, leaving sweet acorns on her dome.  Once more his ear caught her footstep, light <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:as the falling snow-flake.  Once more he caught a glimpse of her form, and saw a silver beam fall from her eye.  But he had no power to speak to her, and her voice was drowned in the river of silence.  She was sitting on her dome.  In his love for the maiden he forgot his people; the valley became parched; the beautiful flowers laid down their heads and died; the winds lost their strength, and could no longer fan the valley; the waters dried up, and the beaver came on the dry land to die.  Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah saw nothing of this; he kept his eyes on the maiden of the rock, and saw nothing else.  Early one morning, as she stood on her dome and saw the valley neglected and perishing, her soft eyes wept; then kneeling down, she prayed the Great Spirit to pity the valley, and bring again the green grass, the green trees, and sweet fruits, and the yellow flowers, and especially the beautiful white mariposa.  In a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:moment, the great dome on which she was kneeling was cleft asunder, and fell down, down, deep into the valley.  At the same time the melting snows of the Nevada Mountains sent the River of Mercy (the Merced) down the cliffs and through the valley, while the fallen rock stopped the waters just enough to make the Mirror Lake.  All was altered; the waters now murmured; the fish leaped up in their joy; the birds hastened back with song; the flowers sent out their sweets, and hung them on the wings of the wind; the sap bounded up to give the tree new life, and busy life was everywhere at work.  But in that awful convulsion which rent the mountain, the maiden disappeared forever.  But the half dome bears her name, "Tis-sa-ach," forever, and the little lake catches and mirrors her dome forever.  The morning and the setting sun place their rosy mantle on that dome every day, and as she flew away, the downy feathers from her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:wings fell on the margin of the lake; and there you may see them still, --in the form of a thousand little white violets.</p><P>When Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah found that she had gone forever, he forsook his lofty home, and having carved his head and form on the side of his rock, a thousand feet above the valley, that the people of his beautiful valley might never forget him, he went in search of his lost one.  On reaching the other side of the valley, loath to leave it, he sat down, looking far away towards the setting sun, where he thought she had gone; and there his grief was so great that he turned into stone, and there every visitor of the valley may see him still, looking off for the loved and the lost!  So the legend.</p><P>If any one doubts this story, I can only say, I have seen the split dome, and the lake with white violets, the white mariposa, and face of Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah on the rock that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:bears his name, and his form turned into stone, sitting on the summit of the opposite mountain!</p><P>In grandeur, sublimity, and beauty, the Yo-Semite Valley stands alone.  At the upper end there have been shakings and rendings, rocks thrown down on either side, sometimes as large as a great church, as if demons had been breaking up and hurling the mountains at each other.  The river dashes and bounds among these fragments, as if frightened and infuriated; and then half an hour's ride brings you to the oaks, and pines, and lawns, smooth as a garden, wild as nature, not showing the mark of axe, or anything to alter this park from what it was when the eye of man first looked into it.</p><P>Everything to eat or use must be brought over and down these mountains on pack-horses; and so difficult is the carriage, that five different cooking stoves had to be procured before a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:sound one, divided in parts, could be brought here.  And here live the educated and refined Mr. and Mrs. Hutchings, the latter a true lady, from Worcester County, Massachusetts.  Here they have lived for five years; never at home in California till they found this spot, where they have been ever since, she without going out, contented and happy.  They have a well-selected library of about six hundred volumes, and for intelligence, need not blush before any guest.</p><P>The only spot that I have ever seen which could in any wise be compared to it, is the Lauterbrunnen Valley, in Switzerland.  They are both of about the same length and breadth; they both have walls on each side; they both have waterfalls; they both have great beauty.  But here the comparison ends.  The Lauterbrunnen has <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
184.sgm: waterfall, -- the Staubbach, or "Dust Brook," with a leap of nine hundred and twenty-five feet.  The Yo-Semite <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:has half a dozen, two of which are higher than this, with many times the volume of water.  The Staubbach empties itself in the air, and is turned into mist, and is lost to sight long before it reaches the ground.  The Pohono, and the Yo-Semite, and the three upper falls come thundering down, their column undiminished, their force augmented every foot they fall.  And in the Yo-Semite there are other falls, much greater in volume, if less in height, than even these.</p><P>In the Lauterbrunnen the sides are cliffs, twelve hundred or fifteen hundred feet high, it may be.  In the Yo-Semite they rise three, four, and four thousand five hundred and eighty feet above the level of the valley.  The eye wearies by looking up, and the mind staggers in trying to take in the vastness of the creations before it.</p><P>Whether you stand still in any part of the valley, or whether you stand amid the spray of the Yo-Semite or the Pohono, or beating <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:your way up over rocks and hill, and up the ladders, to gaze upon the Nevada Falls, flowing like the mane of the white horse in the Apocalypse, you feel sure that you are in a strange region.</p><P>As to the how, or by what convulsions of nature, this marvellous valley was created, I have found no theory that begins to be satisfactory, and I shall not venture to give my own, aware that it is, and can be, nothing but a theory.</p><P>Who should visit the valley?  I answer, Every one who possibly can.  No one will ever regret it; but in order to do it, I would recommend that you take time enough; that you carry all the health and vigor you can, for both will be severely tried.  I would recommend a pretty heavy purse, and, if <HI REND="italics">perfectly</HI>
184.sgm: convenient, I would recommend that you be not <HI REND="italics">much</HI>
184.sgm: over sixty-eight years old.  But whatever your fatigue or age, you will, most assuredly, long to go again.</p><P>The United States have ceded this valley <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:to the State of California, on condition that it be forever kept as a natural park.  I am glad of it, and yet I have no doubt the time is near when Art will be sent in there to improve Nature.  As it now is, it is all Nature.  There, encamped under the trees, with no other covering, I saw the wild children of the forest, the Pono Indians; their arms, bows and arrows with flint heads; their food, acorns pounded in a rock hollowed out ages ago for the same purpose; their kettles and furniture, only willow baskets; their method cooking, heating stones, and throwing them, when heated, into the water till it boils; their ornaments, faces tattooed and painted; their life, aimless and brutal; and their enjoyments, nothing above those of the beasts.</p><P>The great impression which you receive on visiting this valley, is that man is small and God is great.  We see here the foot-prints of his presence, and the finger-marks of his power; but <HI REND="italics">when</HI>
184.sgm: He was here, wonderful in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:working, <HI REND="italics">how</HI>
184.sgm: He chiselled out this wonderful spot!  When the first rush of waters was heard, as they leaped down into this deep basin; when the first sun peeped over the rim, and hung the first rainbow over the boiling waters; when the first human eye saw it, and the first human step trod it, --we do not know.  But we know that particle by particle these solid rocks will crumble off and fall, till that valley shall be even with its rim, should the world continue long enough.  But we know also, that when myriads of eyes have gazed upon these marvels, and when the highest peaks of earth's mountains have become a level plain, our God will remain the same, unaltered, with a wisdom to devise new creations, and a power to execute new plans, surrounded by a family so advancing in knowledge, that they can admire his works, and so grown in what is good, that they can adore and worship and praise Him in notes higher and purer than any that are earthly.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OF CALIFORNIA, INCLUDING A VISIT TO THE GEYSERS.</p><P>WERE two islands to be thrown up from the bottom of the ocean, one fertile, abounding in grains, cattle, sheep, green fields, and food in abundance, for man and for beast, --the other, a hundred miles or more from it, barren, treeless, herbless, and without soil, but abounding in mines of silver and gold, very rich and inexhaustible--in a few years the cultivated island would be rich, and the other poor; the one would have a sober, staid, healthy population; the other, most likely, one that was uneasy, excited, generous, and prodigal, gambling and unscrupulous; and that because we must, to be prospered, follow the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:great leading and laws of divine Providence in every thing; and He has made the <HI REND="italics">soil</HI>
184.sgm: to be the source of material prosperity.</p><P>Everything in this world that has <HI REND="italics">life</HI>
184.sgm:, whether it be animal or vegetable, must draw that life from the earth.  The gentle one, who can hardly bear the sight of the silk-worm, is proud to wear the silk which that worm has manufactured out of the mulberry leaf.  The city dandy, who is shocked at seeing a heap of compost, feels proud to eat the mushroom that grows in it.  It is very plain that man, and the horse, the cow, the sheep, the insect, nay, the king himself, is "served by the field."  It is probable that there is not a fish in the waters, nor a living thing on the globe, that lives not by the soil, directly or indirectly.</p><P>In the cold heights of the Alps, and in the colder regions of the Arctic seas, --those great repositories of the ice-glaciers, --these torrents and glaciers are all the time travelling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:slowly down towards the sea.  They grind the mountains through which they pass, and bring down rocks, and stones, and earth in powder, and in unmeasured quantities, and shoot off into the sea, unless they are dissolved before they reach the sea.  As soon as these glaciers break off and fall into the sea, they are called icebergs, and the matter they bring from the far-off mountains is food for fish.  They come careering along, loaded with rocks and earth, and flow off into the Gulf Stream, where they melt and deposit their load; and there, where for ages the iceberg has found its grave, does the insatiable cod find his living.  Around the mouths of our rivers, where food is abundant, brought fresh by the running waters, do the oyster, the eel, the clam, the duck, and the fish gather, and make it their home.  Seldom, indeed, are fish found in the solitudes of the ocean.  The whale goes among the floating ice, to gather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:the little insects by myriads, for his food.  Thus from the bosom of mother earth, all draw their nourishment.  Does your table groan with luxuries? does your coat keep you warm, or make you feel that you are well dressed? does the bride blush under her gossamer veil, or the orange blossoms in her hair? does the old bachelor sit down to his real Havana cigar (grown and made in the valley of the Connecticut)? does the lover of wines sip his glass? --all must come out of the earth.  Out of the earth grow our clothing, our food, our fuel, our houses, the pen with which we write, the paper on which we write, and everything we use.  Nature finds materials, and it is for man to take and improve them.  We do not know at this day what the wheat, the oat, the rice, the apple, the onion, the potato, or the domestic fowl were, in their wild state.  The wild sheep of the mountains, and the merino and south-downs, seem very little related.  If <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:the Baltimore Oriole can gather straws, hair, wool, and the waste thrums of the factory, and build her curious hanging house, --if the little coral insect can take the alumen which comes from the Amazon, and the lime which comes from the waters of the Missouri, and the coloring matter which comes from the Nile, and with these build her crimson, coral reefs, and build islands in the ocean, --are we to wonder that man can turn the coarse ore of the pit into the hair-spring of the watch, or be able to take Nature in her wild state, and turn her wastes into gardens of beauty?</p><P>The question as to what population a country can feed and clothe, as to what are her capabilities of soil and climate, and <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
184.sgm: what her mines will yield, is by far the most important question you can ask.  It is of little consequence what a State is to-day, in comparison with the question, What is she to become?</p><P>In regard to California, her produce of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:to-day, either from soil or mines, in bushels, in tons, or in dollars, is of very little consequence, except as they bear on the future, and as they are an indication of what the plans of God are in the future, in regard to that territory.</p><P>We have no other State or section which has so great a variety of soil and climate as California, and no State which can yield such a <HI REND="italics">variety</HI>
184.sgm: of products.  All that can be raised in the temperate zone, or in the semi-tropical climate, will grow here in the greatest profusion.  The soil and climate are such that the same amount of labor will yield more than anywhere else, and of a quality unsurpassed.  Instead of planting your seed and waiting years before you can eat your apple or your pear, you may feel sure of a good crop the third year.  The rapidity of growth will astonish you, and not less, the early day at which you get returns.  I saw in Oakland, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:in the garden of Mr. Hunt, formerly of Springfield, a large area of dwarf apple trees, none of which were much over two feet high, literally loaded with fruit, and off which his son assured me, that in the second year, they gathered apples which weighed twenty ounces each; and I saw, also, a limb of a fig tree, which he said he cut off the last fall and stuck into the ground, and which, this summer, is bearing figs.  In the same garden is a century plant, whose stem was as large as a man's leg, and then, when I saw it, twenty-one feet high.  It had grown fourteen feet in seven weeks.  He predicted it would grow twenty feet more, and then blossom.  How amazed we should be to see beets that will weigh a hundred and twenty-seven pounds each, onions a foot across the top, cabbages weighing eighty pounds each, and other vegetables in proportion!  The great trouble there about fruit is, that, it is so easily raised, it has no market.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>The first steamboat we entered on the Sacramento River had twelve tons of salmon, caught that day, and which she was carrying, as her daily allowance, to the city of San Francisco: the fish would weigh twenty pounds each, and they were retailing at six cents the pound, but can often be bought for twenty-five or thirty cents, the whole fish.  The cars that come up from the Santa Clara valley, bring twelve tons of strawberries daily; and this fruit is in market every month in the year.  The potato will yield at least two annual crops; and such huge potatoes!  You can hardly persuade yourself that they were not at least four years in growing; the fig tree yields three crops.  The long, dry summer allows the farmer to take his own time to harvest his wheat and his barley, and to let them lie in the field as long as he chooses.  The mildness of the climate saves him the necessity of building barns or raising hay.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:He harvests his grains in the latter part of May, or the beginning of June; and one peculiarity is, that the dryness of the atmosphere causes the capsule of the wheat to contract and hold in the great plump kernel of wheat, or else there would be a great loss.  The very thing which would shell out our wheat here, retains it there; so that, if your wheat stands uncut for two months after it is ripe, you sustain no loss.  So you thresh it and put it into sacks in the field, and let it lie till convenient to carry it to market.</p><P>You know how, in our climate, immediately after a shower, the sun often pours down upon us, with a heat almost insupportable.  The reason is, the air is full of moisture.  But in the valleys of California, where there is no rain or moisture, though the thermometer stands high, yet the heat causes no suffering--scarcely inconvenience.  Another thing to be mentioned is the very superior quality of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:the wheat that grows there.  There is nothing like it known in the world.  They claim, too, that the great number of insectivorous birds, such as the beautiful valley-quail, protected by law, keep down the insect world.  And the very dryness of the wheat, almost as if kiln-dried, preserves the berry well for exportation, and defends it from the weevil and other insects.</p><P>The average bushels of wheat to the acre, through the State, is less than it should be, from the fact, that it has been the fashion, after the first ploughing, which gives forty or fifty bushels to the acre, just to brush over the stubble, in the fall, with a bush-harrow, and trust that enough seed has been dropped to insure a crop.  The ground was not probably moved an inch deep, and yet the second crop would be from twenty to twenty-five bushels to the acre.  And so the third year, the crop would be from twelve to fifteen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:bushels.  The system is exhaustive of the soil, and suicidal of the future; and this accounts for the low average per acre.  They have been in the habit, too, of just clipping off the heads of the wheat and barley by a peculiar reaper, and then burning the stubble in the field.  They are beginning to learn that this is poor economy, and are now ploughing in their stubble.</p><P>The annual produce of wheat, now, is about twenty million of bushels, and about half that amount in barley.  This often yields, by the large field, eighty and even one hundred bushels to the acre.  It is used chiefly for feed; for though Indian corn can be raised to great advantage, they find the barley better feed in their climate, and much more easily raised.  Of oats they raise two millions of bushels, of superior quality; but this is not a favorite crop.</p><P>To show you on what a scale things may <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:be and are done by our friends there, I would state, that Mr. Jones, on his ranch, in the neighborhood of Stockton, in San Joaquin valley, has, this year, sixteen thousand acres of wheat; to prepare the ground for which, he had nine hundred horses ploughing at the same time; thus, calling his yield but half a crop, he will have three hundred and twenty thousand bushels of wheat, and that the cost of the sacks to put it in will be thirty thousand dollars: that a Mr. Hathaway raised twenty-one tons of beets on an acre, among which was one beet that weighed one hundred and seven pounds: that the same gentleman also gathered one hundred and thirty-two bushels of oats from an acre: that General Bidwell, in one year, raised thirty thousand acres of grain.</p><P>We found one ranch, ten miles by thirty in extent, or nineteen thousand two hundred acres; also another, the owner of which has one hundred thousand head of cattle, to say <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:nothing about sheep.  He numbers only ten thousand calves this spring.  He delivers by contract twenty thousand head of cattle at San Francisco this season, at thirty dollars a head, yielding him the pretty sum of six hundred thousand dollars.  Probably these are not the largest ranches.  Two men in San Francisco own eight hundred thousand acres of land, which they wisely intend to break up into small farms.  These great ranches and these monstrous herds of cattle are a nightmare upon the prosperity of a country.  It can be prospered, in the long run, only by having small farms.  There should be no great, over-grown estates.  Every farmer should <HI REND="italics">own</HI>
184.sgm: his farm.  He is then at the head of a little kingdom, and has every inducement to manage it well and make it beautiful.  Then, every meadow reclaimed, every hill made fruitful, and every conquest over Nature is a benefit to himself.  The owning the soil in fee simple <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:is what has done much for the development of soil and of character in New England, and it is an essential element of permanent prosperity.</p><P>Another production for which California is peculiarly adapted, is the <HI REND="italics">hop</HI>
184.sgm:.  The climate and soil of her valleys prevent loss by blight, insects, or winds.  So far the yield, on the average, has amounted to two thousand pounds to the acre, while even four thousand have been gathered.  They have a method of drying, which prevents the breaking of the blossom, by which the lupuline, or heavier and most valuable part of the hop, has hitherto been mostly lost.  The quality, therefore, ranks high, and will be an article of large export.</p><P>Wool is becoming a mighty production in California.  There are two gentlemen in Santa Barbara, --and old Spanish mission three hundred miles down on the coast from San Francisco, --who own two hundred thousand sheep, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:producing nearly one and a quarter million of pounds of wool.  The estate of these gentlemen is twelve miles square.  Another gentleman owns an island thirty miles long and twenty wide, stocked with ten thousand head of cattle, and fifty thousand sheep, while the hogs have so multiplied that they are considered a nuisance, and a war of extermination is waged against them.  The natural increase of sheep through the State is full one hundred per cent., and seventy-five after deducting all that are used for food.  Some flocks have yielded one hundred and twenty-five per cent. increase.</p><P>The Cotswold breed is the one usually preferred.  The last year yielded thirteen million of pounds, at seventeen cents in gold, and wool of a finer quality need not be desired.  They shear by machinery, much to the comfort of the animal, and to the expedition of the process.  Though we saw vast flocks on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:foot-hills and mountains, yet the lower part of the State seems to be the favorite place for raising the sheep.  The flock is sheared twice a year, though I am told the second crop is not so convenient for the manufacturer.</p><P>The soil and climate are also so admirably adapted to the raising of silk, that I shall be greatly disappointed if this does not become an extensive and profitable business.  The large Japan variety of worm has been introduced, and cocoons of a mammoth size are the result.  They have nearly twelve hundred thousand mulberry trees already growing, and the past year yielded thirteen hundred thousand cocoons, eight hundred ounces of eggs, at four dollars the ounce, were exported, the last year, to France and Italy.  The Japanese are coming in colonies, having purchased great tracts of land for the purpose of cultivating silk; and they, probably, are the most skilful raisers of silk in the world; so that, in all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:probability, this is soon to become a great business.  They also propose to add the cultivation of the tea-plant to that of the mulberry.</p><P>Now comes the question of the vine and the wine.  Whether wine will increase or decrease the amount of intoxication, --and I am very sure it will increase it, or, at least, the temptation to it, --yet it is a fixed fact that more wine is now raised in California, than in all the rest of the United States.  When inquired of, if I saw much drunkenness in California, I used to say I saw no drunkenness, but I saw a great deal of hard drinking, and drinking-places were so abundant, that it seemed as if they must be one of life's essentials.</p><P>There is not a variety of grape known on the face of the earth, which will not grow in perfection here.  Over the gold belt, thirty or forty miles wide, running the whole length of the State, the soil, being volcanic, exactly meets the wants of the vine.  The wine-raising <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:regions, properly speaking, are three, --Lower California, four or five counties, where the grape is not pressed till fully ripe, and which produces a wine with little flavor, highly charged with alcohol, and heady.  A great portion of the brandies distilled in California, are from the Los Angeles region.</p><P>The next region of wine is the west Coast Range, in the valleys made by these mountains, among which Sonoma valley is most noted.  Here the vineyards are very large, --one of which contains five thousand acres, and here the most capital is invested.  There are nearer the European wines, and are in great favor.</p><P>The third region is the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada.  Here, probably, the grape reaches its highest perfection; and here, too, they have already learned to make the raisin, equal, it is said, to any that can be imported.  There are in the State not far from thirty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:millions of vines already growing, producing annually nearly seven millions of gallons of wine, and over one hundred and fifty thousand gallons of brandy.  The increase of vines is about three millions a year.  However much we may regret the abuse of the vine, from the days of Noah to the present hour, the fact seems to be a fixed one, that the vine will accompany civilization, and we must meet it as well as we can--consider it one of the trails of our moral strength, one of the temptations we must meet, and to which no man is obliged to yield unless he chooses.  Riceland exists in abundance, but it has not yet been cultivated.</p><P>From what has been said, you cannot doubt that California is to be, at some future time, like the garden of the Lord.  There are sixty-five millions of acres of land that can be cultivated and made most productive; while there are thirty-three or thirty-four millions of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:acres, --about one third of the whole State, --which is too mountainous to be cultivated.</p><P>There are only a little over four hundred thousand people there yet, to occupy it, and nearly half of these are in the city of San Francisco.  Only seven per cent. of the land is yet fenced in at all, and not over three per cent. is cultivated.  When the ninety-seven parts remaining shall be cultivated, what may it not produce?  A short time since it was thought that wheat would grow only in the rich valleys.  But over the hills, and far up too, grows a little bush, called the "Tar Bush," with a beautiful leaf; but it sticks to and defiles whatever touches it.  Hence its name.  But it is found that wherever the "tar-bush" grows, the soil is suitable for wheat.</p><P>Eastern mind, and skill, and perseverance, will meet ample reward.  My travelling companion met a Massachusetts gentleman, who, seven years ago, bought his lands for one dollar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:per acre, and last year produced twenty thousand gallons of wine, two hundred thousand cocoons, has fifty thousand vines, and a garden filled with all kinds of fruits.  Lower California has a climate that never freezes, and the thermometer seldom rises, even in summer, higher than 65&deg; or 70&deg;.  I know of no climate in the world more beautiful, and no region so inviting to enterprise as that.</p><P>The coast of Alaska, fifteen hundred miles distant, is to furnish all California with abundance of cod, furs, and ice, for every family who wish it.  I am believing, too, that a new stimulus to industry will be given when it is known by trial that their delicious fruits--the cherry, the peach, the pear, and the grape, can be brought eastward, and in unmeasured demand all along the railroad, and still more in all New England.  Any fruits that will bear six or eight days' travel will come, to the benefit of the valleys of the Golden <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:State, and to the intense delight of ourselves and our children.</p><P>The rapidity with which manufactories have arisen and multiplied in California is probably without a parallel in a new State.  The peculiarities of her situation brought many of the most intelligent men to her shores.  These had been accustomed to comforts and luxuries, and those they must have.  At first they had to import even their lime and brick, and indeed everything except meat.  Soon they found the necessity of tools and mining machinery, and then of steam engines and steamships.  These they sought for first: then, as their steamships had to travel seventy thousand miles each during a year, it was found that they must have new copper sheathing every year.  This led them to build a dry dock, probably inferior to none in the world, where the huge ship can be floated into her bed in a few minutes; where the monster engine can pump out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:eighty-four thousand gallons of water a minute, and exhaust the dock in two hours; where in three days she can be re-covered, at a dock-rent of three thousand dollars a day.  These two docks, one floating, and the other stone, are four hundred and fifty feet long, one hundred and twenty-five wide, and thirty-one deep.  No visitor at San Francisco should fail to see them.</p><P>At first, nobody expected to stay in California only long enough to obtain gold; nobody thought the soil capable of producing anything.  So that it was not till about eleven years ago that men felt safe to go into manufacturing: and so much afraid were they of dishonesty in companies, that it is said two thirds of all the manufacturing done in the State is done by less than one hundred owners.  The nearness to China and Japan has done much to stimulate machine-shops and mills for rolling iron.  At the time when the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:commerce of the world is increasing beyond all precedent, God is opening new sources of industry.  Ship timber is becoming scarce on the Atlantic coast; but go north of California, and there is Puget Sound, unequalled for timber, where ships can be built better, and stronger, and cheaper than anywhere else in our country, or in the world; and where, not unlikely, within a very short time, the ship-building of this continent will be transferred and carried on, and whence, every ship, for any part of the world, can start loaded with lumber.</p><P>Still nearer California are the iron mines of the Willamet, in Oregon, besides iron, copper, manganese, and plumbago mines, in different parts of California--inexhaustible in extent; and there is half-civilized China, just beginning to rub her eyes open, which will want a vast amount of steam shipping on her great internal waters; and then the enormous amount <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:of iron railing for roads already built and constantly wearing out, and for the almost interminable lines yet to be built as a necessity, --all this must make a demand for iron manufacturing, to an extent almost unheard of before in our country.  The carrying-trade in lumber and grain from the Pacific coast is yet in its infancy; but I feel safe in predicting that in a very short time it will be so great as to baffle all our present calculations.  Already they have lead and shot works, and the bells cast in San Francisco are heard ringing all over the State, and their gongs are screaming in China.  You would tire and wonder to be led through the mills where industry and skill are creating such a hum--in the works in broom-corn of the first quality, in the chemical works where they themselves have no conception of what they will yet be called to do, in the jewelry manufactories, where they astonish you by the quantity and richness of their productions, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:in the manufacturing of leather, boots, shoes, hose, saddles, and harnesses, even to the making of organs and musical instruments, --you see the foundations of future success already laid.  The manufacturing of flour, of the very best quality, has already been felt over the world.  I am sorry to say that the ease with which barley is raised, and its superior quality, have erected a brewery in almost every town through the State; but of the one hundred and fifty thousand barrels of ale brewed the last year, very little found its way beyond their own boundaries.  It will, however, probably very soon be an article of export.  The nearness to China brings in an immense amount of sugar in its crude state; this has necessitated the business of sugar refining, and their works are very perfect and large in extent.  If they can raise the sugar-beet to the almost incredible weight already attained, I see not why they cannot make sugar enough from that root to supply the Mississippi Valley.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>Our woollen manufacturers will expect me to say something about that branch.  Hitherto these factories have had to depend on steam as the motive power; but when railroads shall be opened up to the Stanislaus, the Tuolumne, or the Merced Rivers, one of which is already begun from Stockton to Copperopolis, there will be a water-power enough to create scores of Lowells.  In San Francisco there are thirty-nine sets of machinery in operation.  The Pioneer and the Mission mills operate thirty-one sets, one hundred and twenty broad looms, and about five hundred hands.  They consume two million pounds of wool annually, make eighty thousand blankets, one hundred and twenty-five thousand yards of broad-cloth, fifty thousand yards of three quarter flannel: whole value one million of dollars in gold.  Chinese labor--none better--one dollar per day; foreman, from four dollars fifty cents to five dollars; cost of fuel and water <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:rents in both mills, forty-seven thousand dollars.  The other mills in the State use one million of pounds additional annually.  Add to all this, gold, not less than twenty-five millions dollars; silver, still more; so that the shipments of gold and bullion amount to not less than a million a week the year round.  Merchandise exported, nearly twenty-two millions dollars, viz.: wheat, ten millions six hundred and thirty-six thousand dollars; wine, three hundred thousand dollars; wool, two millions three hundred and seventy-eight thousand dollars; hides, three hundred and fifty-seven thousand dollars; leather, two hundred and sixty-eight thousand dollars; furs, mostly from Alaska, a little short of one million dollars; quicksilver, besides what is used in the mines, about the same amount--one million.</p><P>There is another branch of business to which I have barely made allusion.  Let us now make a little excursion.  We take the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:steamboat at the city, pass over the bay, enter the San Puebla Bay, take the cars, and go up the incomparably beautiful Napa Valley.  You stop at Calistoga, where are hot springs, boiling hot if you want, and sulphur springs to your heart's content.  An early ride the next morning, of about twenty miles, brings you to the foot of a great mountain, over which you are to ride.  This is called "Foss' Station," where you eat the best breakfast in California, because the morning ride has given you an appetite.  "Foss" is an institution himself--a huge, well-proportioned, uneducated New Hampshire man, endowed with qualities which in any condition would make him a marked man; and you look at his brawny arms and powerful body almost with envy.  But he has his six-horse team harnessed to an open wagon, and you are now off for the Geysers.  You ascend a mountain five thousand feet high, up which you wind and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:creep, till you come to a ridge about two miles long, and so straight that you can see the road two miles ahead.  It is just possibly wide enough to let the wagon run on its edge, though to look at it in front, it looks as if you were to ride on the edge of a rusty case-knife.  Down upon this ridge the horses dash, and you see, if the wheels should vary a foot either side, you would roll down into a gulf that makes you quiver to look at.  But over it you pass; and now you are to go down the mountain into the can&tilde;on below.  You are to descend one thousand nine hundred feet in two miles.  You tremble for the Pittsfield lady sitting calmly by the side of Foss, where she sees every danger, and shows no other effect of the strange situation than the brightening of the eye.  Crack goes the whip, and the trained horses dash down upon the quickest gait horses ever did go, and after making thirty-five short turns, a failure at any one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:which would break your limbs, if not your neck, you are at the bottom--just eleven minutes in coming down, holding your breath, throbbing with excitement, glad you have taken the awful leap once, and feeling very sure that whoever takes it hereafter must be a fool!</p><P>You are now in a deep can&tilde;on, on every side of which the beautiful mountains rise up three thousand feet or more.  Nothing can exceed their beauty.  A large trout brook runs through the can&tilde;on, stony, but the water is clear, cold, and beautiful.  You go down and cross this brook at right angles, just where, out of another can&tilde;on at right angles to this, you see another little brook meeting you.  On either side of it the mountains rise high and steep.  The bed of this can&tilde;on and along this little brook is the home of the Geysers.  The Geysers were originally found in Iceland, and the word <HI REND="italics">Geyser</HI>
184.sgm: is Icelandic, meaning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:"vehement," or "urgent," because a Geyser spouts out water, hot or cold, and sometimes mud with the water.  You now feel that you are in a strange place; the ground burns your feet, the air chokes and suffocates you.  The atmosphere is filled with the smell of sulphur, nitric acid, and every other disagreeable smell you can imagine.  At your feet boils out a stream of alum.  Perhaps two feet from that is anothe rof nitric acid, or Epsom salts, or soda, or pure sulphur, or sulphuric acid, or ammonia.  Here is a deep-mouthed opening, up which is boiling a huge volume of liquid as black as ink.  It is called the "Devil's Inkstand."  The ink with which I am now writing this manuscript came from this inkstand, and I am using it just as it was made there.  A little above is the "Witch's Caldron," perhaps seven feet in diameter, black, boiling, spouting, and raging.  Its depth is unknown.  All these are boiling, steaming hot; more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:a thousand of these steam-holes are in this can&tilde;on.  On your left is the "Steamboat," where, high above your head, the steam spouts and roars like the letting off the steam when the steamboat stops.  Thrust your stick into the side of the hill anywhere, and the steam will rush out.  You seem to be treading on the very borders of the infernal pit.  What with the steam, the heat, the smells, your head grows dizzy and whirls, you pant for breath, and you hasten to get out.  But you must stop at one more spot.  It is called the "Devil's Tea-kettle," where the steam intermits, and sputters, and wheezes, as if groaning in chains.  You stick your cane into it, and, whew! it roars and sputters like a huge cat when a strange dog comes into the room.  You almost expect to see the horns of the Evil One thrust up next.  The place is so strange that you want to stay longer, but feel that it would kill you.  You can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:compare it to nothing but hell.  It is called, "the Pluton Can&tilde;on."  In the cool of the evening or morning, or in cold weather, the steam of this great concealed furnace rises up, and is seen afar off.  Were a dome of ice to be thrown over it, the steam would be so suffocating that nobody could go near it.  There are probably hundreds, if not thousands, of orifices in which you could roast eggs.  It is said that you might stand at the mouth of the can&tilde;on and hook a trout in the big brook, and by turning round in your tracks, you could let him down and boil him in one of these little natural kettles.</p><P>By all I had read or heard, before visiting the Geysers, I had supposed them to be volcanic, and that <HI REND="italics">fire</HI>
184.sgm: was the cause of all this heat, and that it must be not very far from the surface of the earth, and that the Geysers were really safety-valves for the prevention of earthquakes.  A very short <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:examination convinced me that my notions were all wrong, --that they are not volcanic, <HI REND="italics">but a great chemical laboratory</HI>
184.sgm:.</p><P>I found here iron, --that which makes the inky water, --alum, ammonia, sulphuric acid, nitric acid, sulphur, Epsom salts, in large crystals; acid water, which, sweetened a little, makes good lemonade; magnesia, soda, and one spring said to be extraordinary in its effects as an eye-water.  The alum spring is one hundred and seventy-six degrees by the thermometer, and the Witch's Caldron, one hundred and ninety-five and one half degrees.  Now, fill these great mountains with these several chemicals, and let in the water upon them, and let what is left of it make this little Pluton Brook, and you have all the phenomena which you find here.  The whole region, abounding in sulphur springs and hot springs, is a hidden treasury of chemistry.  Not far from the Geysers is Clear Lake, where they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:dredge up the bottom-mud and find clear, beautiful, crystallized borax, and can get, if they can sell, six tons a day.</p><P>There is no place in the world where borax so pure and so abundant can be found; that found in Thibet comes nearest to it, but the borax is far inferior in quality and in quantity, and so in China.</p><P>To me it seems clear that the day is coming when Science will come here and uncover these hidden things, and bring out, most likely, in almost fabulous quantities, the treasures here now concealed.  I can almost imagine some Yankee standing over the Devil's Inkstand and dipping up ink enough for the use of a continent.  Here, or near here, undoubtedly, is sulphur enough to furnish a nation with gun-powder; and I write down the Geysers, not merely as a place where men will go to be horrified, but where they will go, at a future day, for materials to be used for the good of men; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and these that now seem to be the breathing-holes of the pit, are only the way-marks by which God shows us where to look for these chemicals, laid up till called for.</p><P>I am aware that this view destroys much of the romance of the thing; for it is far more romantic to feel that we have stood over a volcano, just ready to burst out, or over regions infernal, where demons are panting, and struggling, and groaning, and you can almost hear the clanking of their chains, than to feel that you are in a huge chemical shop, where the chemicals have got thrown together, and water from the hydrant has broken out, and continues to run in among them.  But that under this covering there are rich hidden treasures, which will one day bless the world, I have not a doubt.</p><P>I have thus given you a bird's-eye view of the capabilities of California--where nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:that man has done is over twenty years old, --and yet he has achieved wonders, --where the hand of man has yet touched but three per cent. of her rich soil, where everything is and grows, and is to be and grow, on a scale unexampled, and where the invitations for men to go are loud.  But the men to go there should be men of industry, men of intelligence, men who only want opportunity and materials with which to work, and if they can carry capital, so much the better; but it is not the place for drones, or those who want to live without labor.  Such are not welcomed; but the right kind of men are welcomed with a cordiality that is beautiful.</p><P>The inhabitants gathered there are from all parts of the world, and they all understand that they are to lay aside their prejudices, and melt into a new and homogeneous society; and they do so.</p><P>The country is a new field for human <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:industry, and experiments new and great are there to be made.  God has reserved all this for designs which I shall hint at hereafter.</p><P>Mines of the precious metals there are, and mines of iron, and lead, and copper, and quicksilver; mines of coal and tin there are; but after all, the deep, rich soil of the State will be the great source of wealth, and will call in a population that will carry there all that is good in the old States, leaving behind, I trust, what is evil.</p><P>I stand on the Nevadas, and look off over this strange country; and I am not looking at so many acres of grain, so many mines, so many factories, but I am looking at a territory now embraced in a single State, which, when filled up as Massachusetts is to-day, will contain twenty millions of people, --where generation after generation is to come up and pass away, --where art, and mind, and wealth, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and skill, and luxury, and ambition, and education, and religion will all struggle together for supremacy, but through it all, will roll the River of God to make glad the cities of our God, and to cool the passions, and moderate the spirits, and fit the unborn multitudes for a higher end than can be attained on any, even the most favored spot, in this world.</p><P>Our Schools and Colleges, our Churches and our Institutions, will live again in all those beautiful valleys, and a tide of living joy will continually roll through them, and the song of praise and gratitude will go up to heaven--"loud as from voices without number."  That wonderful region is to be another monument raised to the honor of the Pilgrims, and of that wisdom which was born in the cabin of the Mayflower.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>MORMONS AND MORMONISM.</p><P>It is very difficult, if not almost impossible, to speak of the Mormons with feelings perfectly balanced.  In their history there is the romance of fanaticism and the romance of suffering.  You pity them for the cruel persecutions which they claim to have endured; you are amazed at their credulity; you are in admiration over their industry, and you are indignant at their assumptions of religion, under the name of which they glory in practices for which the whole civilized world send men to the State Prison.  They claim that theirs is the new, the last, the most perfect Dispensation, --revealed from Heaven; that they are "the Latter-Day Saints," are the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:special and only favorites of Heaven, and are directly inspired by God.</p><P>They claim that one Joseph Smith dug brass plates out of a hill, in the State of New York, which hill they call Cumorah; that these plates were in an ancient, unknown language; that Joseph Smith, Jr., was inspired to translate the writings engraven on these plates, and that the Book of Mormon is this translation.  How these plates were put into that spot, how kept from corroding, how they could make a book of five hundred and sixty-three pages, very closely printed, I cannot ascertain.  In the beginning of the book, is the certificate of several that they had <HI REND="italics">seen</HI>
184.sgm: these plates.  Three of these testify that an angel from heaven brought and showed them to them.  The others, among which is the testimony of Smith, Sr., merely assert that they had seen them in the hands of the translator, Joseph Smith, Jr.  I could not find any one among <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:them who had ever seen the plates, though I found a man, stone blind, who assured me that he had seen the <HI REND="italics">hole</HI>
184.sgm: out of which the plates were dug.  They claim that as soon as Smith had fairly got the plates, he began to be persecuted, and had to flee from place to place while translating them; that he had to meet vexatious lawsuits, more than fifty in number; and that he paid out in these lawsuits, first and last, the sum of one hundred and thirty-one thousand dollars!</p><P>He was the first Prophet.  They claim that, for his religion, the Prophet, and his brother Hiram, and some others were imprisoned, and at one time actually fed on human flesh.  For myself, I cannot see why a divinely inspired man should not know what flesh he was eating.  They claim that the saints first undertook to settle in Ohio, but were driven out by a mob.  They then went to Missouri, and made two several attempts to settle; had purchased <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:farms, built mills, churches, &amp;c., and were driven out by violence, and outrage, and murder.  They then went to Illinois, into a swampy, unhealthy region, and made it into a garden.  This was their Nauvoo, where they built an immense temple.</p><P>Here, too, they were persecuted, driven out by armed men, and their city bombarded by at least five hundred remorseless, armed men.  The story of their exile, their persecutions, and their sufferings, is most painful.  Of course, I take their own accounts, for the other side of the story has never been written, or if it has, I have never seen it.  But it will be written, and we shall then have both sides of the story.  I am assured that the other side view will be very different, and will make fearfully against their own history.  We shall see.  But, taking <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
184.sgm: version, I hesitate not to say, that the treatment which they received in Illinois was not merely unjust <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and unkind, but it was cruel to a degree that ought to make savages blush.</p><P>It was in the year 1845 that the mob began to burn their houses, pillage their property, shamefully treat their women, and finally murdered Joseph Smith and his brother Hiram.  What it was that so exasperated the community I cannot see.  It was <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
184.sgm: polygamy, for at that time, they had had no revelation allowing more than one wife.  In their "Book of Doctrines and Covenants," containing the revelations made to Smith and many others, men and women, they say positively (page 331), "Inasmuch as this Church of Christ has been reproached with the crime of fornication and polygamy, we declare that we believe that one man should have one wife, and one woman but one husband, except in case of death, when either is at liberty to marry again."</p><P>It seems to have been one of those periods of frenzy, like that which burned the witches <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:at Salem, and which sometimes unaccountably sweeps through a community.  The community of Mormons, being once more expelled from what they supposed their homes, now set their faces westward.  As many as twelve hundred wagons had been built by February, 1846, when the strongest and healthiest set forward and crossed the Mississippi on the ice.  The feebler portion were left to come in the spring.  But violence came upon them, and they had to winter on the bottom-lands of the river, enduring famine, sickness, and death.  Here they claim the Lord interposed, and sent them such clouds of quails, and so tame, that they had but to knock them down with a stick.  On these they lived for months.</p><P>The whole number of Mormons now was about twenty thousand.  They claim that in every persecution they endured, ministers of Christ--Methodist and Presbyterian--were the instigators and the ringleaders.  <HI REND="italics">Credat Jud&aelig;us Apella</HI>
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184.sgm:<P>They were now scattered all through the country between the Mississippi and the Missouri, and a more affecting picture of their being spoiled and of sufferings--as drawn by General Kane, the brother of Dr. Kane, of Arctic fame--can hardly be found.  Gradually the whole multitude worked their way westward, through the country of the Pottawattamie Indians, three hundred miles, to the Missouri River.  The Pottawattamies had just sold their lands to the United States, and were to give possession the coming season; and, of course, there the Saints could find no home.  They had now to build ferry boats, by which to cross the Missouri.  They crossed chiefly at Omaha, near which, they say, they found "some missionaries and Indian traders, who occupied their time principally in selling whiskey to and swindling the Indians."  Who these whiskey-selling and swindling missionaries were, we are not told.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>Such assertions remind one of the prophets described by Jeremiah: "They are prophets of the deceit of their own hearts."  The Mormons also claim, that at the Missouri River an officer met them with a requisition for five hundred men to go to the Mexican war; that in three days that number left their families, and were on their march; that they were infantry, and passed over the deserts, and through pathless mountains, and made the unexampled march of two thousand and fifty miles, to San Diego, California, most of the time on half, and often on quarter rations.</p><P>Brigham Young was now the prophet and leader, in the place of Joseph Smith.  He now had a revelation allowing, if not enjoining, polygamy.  While waiting for those left behind, covering a path of two hundred miles, Young built over seven hundred log-houses for the next winter quarters; also water and horse-power mills, and one hundred and fifty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:of what they call "dug-outs," i.e., huts in the ground, and only the roof above the cellar.</p><P>In the spring of 1847, Brigham Young, who bears the title of President, left his twenty thousand at or near the Missouri, and with one hundred and forty-three men, set forward on an exploring expedition.  My belief is that he intended to find a path over the unknown deserts into Oregon.  Starting before the grass had grown, they carried their food, and fed their cattle on the bark of the cotton-wood tree, till the grass should spring up.  For six hundred and fifty miles they made their own road, and for four hundred more they followed a trapper's trail.  This one thousand and fifty miles brought them to a valley.  This valley was barren, and covered with crickets; but here Young had a revelation that he was to stop, and this was to be the home of the Mormons.  The valley was about twenty-eight miles by twenty-five.  Notwithstanding his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:revelation, he sent out his men in exploring parties, in all directions, to see if they could find a spot more to their minds.  This was just twenty-two years ago this very month, i.e., July, 1847.  His messengers returned, finding no spot so good as the one divinely pointed out.  Here they began to plant the few potatoes they had brought, and sowed a little grain.</p><P>The valley was barren, covered with the wild sage bush, which grows only in alkaline soils.  Nothing could be more forbidding.  Not a tree grew for shade, not a green thing for the eye.  With characteristic energy, Young went back to his people, starting them onward and seeing that they took all the food they could.  Now, for years, the work was to get all the multitude--the old, the young, and the infant--on to the new home.  Wagons and teams by the hundreds, handcarts conveying the sick and children, often drawn by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:women, new graves of the pilgrims, strung all along their route, marked this epoch.  The first year after their arrival, the large mountain crickets came down in such multitudes as to threaten to eat up everything.  Just as they began to despair, the white gulls from the rocks in the Salt Lake came in vast flocks, and with an appetite so insatiable, that they arrested the ruin, and were their deliverers.  Notwithstanding, before they had learned how to manage their soil, they came so near starvation, that they had to dig wild roots with the Indians, eat every hide and skin they had, and everything that was possibly eatable.</p><P>The Mormons <HI REND="italics">claim</HI>
184.sgm: that they carried the first printing press that ever crossed the Missouri; that they raised the first national flag that ever waved in Utah; that they made the first brick ever made in California; that they carried there the first emigrant ship and the first printing press; that they discovered and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:dug the first gold; that they discovered their valley where the foot of only one trapper had ever gone before.  They claim that during the four months' trail, in 1849, when the old and the young died most fearfully, the spinningwheel and the loom, set up in wagons, never stopped a single day!  They claim that the first newspaper published west of the river, and also the first in San Francisco, was published by the Mormons.</p><P>Though in 1850 there was not a shingled roof (all being cloth) among them, yet the emigrant wagons, as they stopped on their way to California, never lacked hospitality and kindness; their sick never lacked care and nursing, and never had or took occasion to complain of heavy charges.  Such is a brief history of the beginning of Mormonism, as <HI REND="italics">they</HI>
184.sgm: give it.</p><P>Now, for a few minutes, forget the history of the Mormons, and go with me to a spot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:in the far interior of North America.  In the midst of the fearful desert, between the Rocky Mountains and the Nevada Range, rises up the Wahsatch Range of Mountains, running parallel with the other two ranges, north and south.  It is not a single peak or ridge, but a range of ridges and spurs, with little valleys between them.  You are now in one of these valleys, with high mountains all around you: one turret before you is eleven thousand seven hundred feet high, and snow hangs and covers their tops the year round.  The air is so clear that these mountains, fifteen miles off, do not look to be over four or five.  The air is soft, and it seems as if summer had contrived to hide and play under the mantle of winter.  In the midst of this valley is a gentle swell of ground.  Turn your face north, and you see, twelve miles distant, a great blue sheet of water; and on your right, a mile or two distant, a sweet river, making towards that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:greater water.  On that gentle swell stands a city, laid out in squares.  The streets run east and west, north and south, and each four miles long.  They are each one hundred and thirty-two feet, or eight rods, wide.  On each side of every street flows a brook of clear, pure mountain water, and rows of trees are planted along every watercourse.  It seems to you that some of these streams must be running up hill.  But there they are, in full speed, running through every street in the city.  The squares of the city are laid out so as to have just ten acres in each square, and these ten acres again divided up into eight squares, so as to give one and a quarter acre to each house.  These little squares are all made into gardens, planted with trees, bearing all manner of fruits and vegetables.  Among this shrubbery, is the dwelling-house, built of adobe brick, --i.e., clay unburnt, --the bricks smooth, well-shaped, and of an olive or gray color, --the houses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:often two stories high, and very neat in appearance.</p><P>In one of these squares, rises up a huge building, oval in shape, two hundred and seventy-one feet long, one hundred and seventy-one wide, and seventy high, with a roof that resembles one of the metallic, oval covers with which we cover our dinner platters.</p><P>Every garden is watered or irrigated by a little stream drawn from the street-brook nearest to it.  The abundance and constancy of water make the trees and the vegetation dance in a halo of green.  In the most busy street, these acre-and-a-quarter squares are cut up, and store joins store, and shop joins shop, as in any other city.  The population of the city is about twenty thousand people.</p><P>This, then, is "Salt Lake City," the centre of Mormonism--a city and a people unlike anything else in the wide world.  That huge building is their Tabernacle, or church.  You <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:gaze upon the mountains rising up all around you like a rim of rock--not a tree on them; at the Great Salt Lake, twelve miles off; at the River Jordan, on your right; at the rushing of the mountain torrent, pouring in a paved channel through the middle of a central street, that seems to sing as he goes, "I am what is left of the mountain stream, after the city has drank all that it wants;" and you gaze at the soft, hazy atmosphere around you, and feel that you are on one of the most beautiful spots on which the sun shines.  Can this be the desert which, twenty-two years ago, was covered with wild sage?  What master mind planned, laid out this city of the desert, and made it what it is to-day?  You soon learn that this is only <HI REND="italics">one</HI>
184.sgm: among many evidences of the workings of a very shrewd mind.  When you get out of the city, you find the whole Territory surveyed off, first into five-acre lots; and then the next tier, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:ten acres; the third, twenty; and the most remote forty acres, which is the highest amount any one man may own.</p><P>You now find that among the spurs of this great range of mountains, there are many little valleys creeping up among them, for a long, long distance.  You find the Territory of Utah to contain sixty-five thousand square miles; or about nine times as large as Massachusetts.  This, in acres, is forty-one million six hundred thousand.  Of this, not over five hundred thousand acres are supposed to be capable of cultivation, leaving forty-one millions of acres not cultivable; i.e., only one acre in eighty-three can ever be cultivated.  The inhabitants in Salt Lake City amount to about twenty thousand, Mormons and "Gentiles," as they call all who are not Mormons.</p><P>They have one hundred and thirty cities and villages scattered among these valleys, to the distance of four hundred miles one way, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and two hundred the other way, and in all about one hundred thousand people.  They are industrious and frugal to a wonderful degree, and have one hundred and sixty thousand acres, or one third of all their land, under cultivation.  Of this, ninety-four thousand acres are cultivated by irrigation, bringing in an annual water-rentage of two hundred and seventy-four thousand dollars.  They have eighty thousand acres in grain, two thousand in coarse sugar-cane, six thousand eight hundred in roots, two hundred in cotton, nine hundred in orchards, one thousand in peach, seventy-five in grapes, one hundred and ninety-five in currants, and thirty thousand in grass.</p><P>When, in 1847, they first raised the American flag, the Territory belonged to Mexico.  In it are mines yet to be worked, of iron, coal, and gold, and probably silver.  Their valleys extend, north and south, eight hundred miles.  All around these valleys are deserts of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:hundred miles in every direction.  The climate is dry and hot, but exceedingly pleasant, and mild in winter.  The property expended in aqueducts is estimated at ten million five hundred and eighty-eight thousand seven hundred and eighty-two dollars.</p><P>Salt Lake has a City Hall which cost seventy thousand dollars, and the city has no debt; and the Territory has actually a surplus of seventeen thousand dollars in its treasury; they have one hundred and eighty-six school districts, two hundred and twenty-six schools, eighteen thousand children, and three hundred and six teachers, at an annual expense of sixty-one thousand dollars.</p><P>They are taking measures to make a canal from the Utah Lake, forty miles distant, at an expense of about five hundred thousand dollars; which will enable them to irrigate fifty thousand acres more; for nothing can be raised there without constant and careful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:irrigation.  But with it, everything is raised in the greatest profusion and abundance.  They boast of a theatre, churches in all the villages, debating clubs, and Female Relief Societies.  Wherever mountain streams are found, they are conducted to the soil, and if, for a single day, it should be shut off from their gardens, they would suffer, if not perish.  Sometimes, in dry seasons, the water is allowed but half the day, and often they must get up at midnight to let it on.  In the intensely Salt Lake, twelve miles off, ninety miles long and fifty wide, there shoot up sharp mountains, bare rock, not a living thing on them, unless it be gulls, making an addition to the dreariness of the scene.</p><P>This lake has risen nine feet during the last two years, and is now three hundred feet lower than the water-marks on the surrounding mountains show it once to have been.  Is there any probability that it will ever rise up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:to its old place?  Who knows?  It has the Bear and the Jordan, and I believe other rivers, emptying into it; but it has no visible outlet.  How are we to account for the rise of the lake?  Have the cultivation of the land, the growth of trees and vegetation, been sufficient to increase the rain so as to raise the waters of this great lake?  I doubt it.</p><P>Who make Mormons, and whence come they?  I reply, they are mostly foreigners, from the lowest, most illiterate strata of society in Europe.  They are from the quarries in Wales, from Norway, Sweden, and especially from Denmark.  At a period as early as when they were on the banks of the Missouri, Brigham Young sent what they call missionaries to Europe, and began system of Emigration and filling up his society from abroad.  I do not know what arguments such a recruiting officer would use, but doubtless he would tell those who were almost starving, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:that here they would find food enough; those who wore wooden shoes, that here they would wear leather; those who never aspired to own anything in the shape of property, that here they would actually become land-holders, and own real estate!</p><P>In the mean time he started a Permanent Emigration Fund, to which every emigrant was to contribute at least enough to pay his own passage, as soon as he was able.  Out of this fund they have, up to the present time, expended more than five million dollars in bringing emigrants over the ocean.  So perfect was the system arranged, that when the emigrants landed on the banks of the Missouri, there would be five hundred wagons of four yokes of oxen or mules each, and carrying ten in a wagon, waiting to put them on to their new homes.  A committee of the British Parliament has sat at the feet of the Mormons, to learn their system of aiding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:emigration.  At the present time, when the Railroad brings on a new colony, they have everything arranged most curiously.  Almost all who now come, have relatives or friends among the Mormons, who have written to them; for they assured me of the astonishing fact, that there is not a Mormon who cannot read and write in his own native language--which I am compelled to doubt.  Long before the emigrants arrive, the Rulers receive a list of the names of those who are coming.  This list is posted up on the walls near the Tabernacle, and the time mentioned when they will arrive.  Now, suppose an arrival of eight hundred on Wednesday evening.  It is all known who are coming, and when.  From the distant valleys, all through Mormondom, the teams have gathered, and by breakfast time next morning, they are all carried out of the city, to visit a few days with their friends, and then they get on their little tracts of land, build a cayote <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:house, which a man can build in a day, and begin life.  A cayote house is a small cellar dug in the sand, and a few boards set up over the hole as a roof.  The hole into it is like the hole of the cayote wolf's burrow; and hence the name.  The emigrant stays in the cayote till he has the means of building an adobe dwelling.  As fast as he is able, he pays back what has been advanced for his passage.  In the construction of the Railroad lately, these were let out to work, and the emigration fund was paid in rapidly.  Still, there are due this fund, at the present time, the Rulers tell me, not less than six hundred thousand dollars.  I suppose this debt, when paid in, would remove six thousand people from Europe to Utah.  I met three hundred on a single train, on their way, as I came eastward.</p><P>Among a thousand men or more, who worked on the railroad, from the Mormons, there were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:no murders, no drunkenness, and no fightings.  In the streets of the city are no brawls, or intoxication.  In all Mormondom there is but one place where intoxicating liquors are sold; and that favored man, who sells them, has to pay for a license, seven thousand two hundred dollars annually, paying one thousand eight hundred dollars, in advance, every quarter!  Such a license law would do the business in Massachusetts, or anywhere else.</p><P>The government of the Mormons seems to consist of a President and Prophet, united, who is Brigham Young--the receiver of revelations, and the vicegerent of heaven.  With him are associated three chief councillors, then twelve apostles, then bishops enough to be scattered through every town and village, giving one to each.  The Bishop is a kind of judge, ruler, alealde, teacher, preacher, magistrate, and sometimes the miller, or the storekeeper, or the raiser of cattle, or cotton, or the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:manufacturer, or the hotel-keeper of the village.  He is selected for his self-control, shrewdness, and ability to manage men.  He is the man-- <HI REND="italics">omnis homo</HI>
184.sgm: --of the village.  Then there are subordinate officers, like the Israelites of old, down to rulers of tens.</p><P>The greatest shrewdnesss is shown in putting the right man in the right place; and as the keen mind of Young can appoint and remove, and not a soul ever ask a question, he is sure to make a wise selection, first or last.  He appoints the officers, and if, for any reason, he thinks it best to remove a man from the territory for a time, he has only to tell him it is thought best for him to go on a Foreign Mission, and that he will buy his house, setting his own price on it, and the man bows in silence, and does it all.  There are what they call Gentiles among them; but, taking the whole population, they do not exceed two and a half per cent.  I ought also <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:to say that they claim that their treatment of the Indians has ever been just and kind, acting on the principle, that it is cheaper to feed them than to fight them, and that they have never had their emigrant trains molested, or lost a life or a dollar of property by the Indians.  Nor is it too much to say, that, had it not been for the Mormons to furnish labor and food, the Pacific Railroad could not have been built, at present, even if it ever could have been done.  The bee-hive, painted on the wall which surrounds the offices and dwellings of Young, is a good emblem of that industry which is everywhere most apparent.  If there are more men in the city than are needed to do the work of the city, they are sent out.  You will wonder to see an uncouth adobe wall at the foot of the mountains, about twelve feet high, stretching round the city for miles.  It is in ruins, and never was of any earthly use.  It was built at a time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:when the population had nothing to do, under pretence of guarding against the Indians; but in reality, it was to keep the people employed.  Nor are you surprised, either, to learn that canals, to the amount of a thousand miles in length, have been dug, in order to bring water into the city and over their house lots.</p><P>This untiring industry is manifested also by the one hundred and fifty grist and saw-mills, three cotton, and four woollen factories, twenty-five tanneries, besides the making of shoes, hats, wagons, nails, furniture, and the like.  The theory of the leading mind among them is, that they shall raise and manufacture everything they use, and thus be, and continue to be, a community, distinct and separate from all others, having their own standard of civilization and religion.</p><P>I have thus far given you what I deem a candid view of the <HI REND="italics">best</HI>
184.sgm: side of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:picture, such as the stranger gets on a single day's visit.  Here is a community gathered from different parts of the world, brought and cemented together, a perfect outward fusion, making them a unit, differing from all other people in government, domestic habits, and religion.  Has that community been thus cemented by religion, as they claim, or by something else?  Will that system be permanent, or has it the seeds of death within itself?</p><P>Now, I am going to say frankly, but I hope kindly, what other impressions were made upon my own mind.</p><P>(a.) I think the government is a despotism, rigid in its exactions, omnipresent in its watchfulness, far-seeing in its plans, and unscrupulous in using means to attain its ends.  I do not deny, may, I have said, that it has done a great amount of good, in gathering the poor of the earth, melting them together, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:making them earn their bread, and giving them a civilization as high as it is.</p><P>But this ignorant mass is clay in the hands of the master spirit.  The presiding Genius wields, in their view, all the authority that earth and heaven can give him.  He is prophet and king.  When I see that not a man among all his subjects dares disobey any order of his, when their amiable Delegate to Congress tells me that when he is elected, it is done on this wise: In the Assembly Young says, "Brethren, we are now to elect a member of Congress; our Brother, Mr. Hooper, has done very well, and I think we cannot do better than send him again;" and that decision gives a unanimous vote; and when the same amiable Member tells me that were he, when in Congress, to receive a telegram from Young, saying, "Your presence is needed in London," he would pack up and be off within three days; and when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:they all tell me no man has yet ever refused to go on a Foreign Mission, when the Chief told him to go, and when they admit that when a man dies his will or wishes go for nothing, his property all goes to the church, --can I doubt that here is a despotism beyond anything elsewhere in the world?  He becomes offended with a large mercantile house in his city; they do not pay as much for tithes as he demands; he excommunicates them from his church.  He then opens what he calls "co-operative" stores, one in every ward of the city, with the blasphemous sign over each, --a great staring Eye, and "Holiness to the Lord," in large letters.  To them, this blasphemy, as it seems to me, is religion.  Then there is a system of watching, <HI REND="italics">espionage</HI>
184.sgm: over everybody and everything.  You cannot stay in the city three days without feeling that you are watched; the air is close, you cannot breathe easy; hear two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:strangers talk together, and you will soon see some one cautiously listening.  You learn to speak low, and if you talk with a resident, not a Mormon, you will see him cautiously looking around, and very likely getting up and closing the door; and you soon get to have the feeling, that were you to speak out, and tell just the impressions that are made upon you, your life would not be safe for twenty-four hours.  A gentleman who resides among them, tells me that this is true in regard to himself; and not a Mormon would dare trade at any other store, save one of the "Mount Zion" stores, as they are called.  If you say I got wrong impressions, and was frightened at shadows, I have only to say, that I tried hard to get <HI REND="italics">right</HI>
184.sgm: impressions; and those who know me best, do not believe I am often frightened at shadows.  That this power is wielded so as to keep these people in perfect subjection, and much for their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:good, I do not deny; nay, so far, praise it; but it is, after all, a despotism which native Americans would not endure a single month.  And this is one of the elements that has given strength to Mormonism.  The stories about the murder of the physician at the Sulphur Spring, the secret whispers about the presence and deeds of the "Destroying Angels," of the "Danites," and their deeds of darkness when they come in the form and dress of Indians, may not all be true; but they are received as truths, and convey impressions about the government there which no government can afford to have believed.</p><P>(b.)  My impression is, that this people are under the power of a fanaticism most remarkable for this age of the world.  When they build their faith and hopes, for this life and the next, on what none but men in a peculiar state of mind can believe, I call it fanaticism.  For example: that Smith, in 1826, dug up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:brass plates that had been preserved for ages and ages, by a perpetual miracle, in the State of New York, in the town of Palmyra; that these plates, so ancient that nobody, not miraculously endowed, could read the language, were found in a common, coarse box, such as had been used for window glass; that Smith interpreted them with a stone in his hat and his hat drawn over his face, while another man wrote down the revelation; and that the contents of these plates filled the Book of Mormon, --taxes credulity to the point of fanaticism.  That book lies before me, a series of weak, puerile romances, with a poor imitation of an Eastern dress thrown over them, without dates, without localities, with an abundance of names, an ape of Hebrew names, and of the style of the Bible.  Nothing but fanaticism can swallow such stuff; common sense is outraged by its pretensions.  And when I hear, as I did hear, the Vice President, on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:the Sabbath, declare before thousands, that Brigham Young had a revelation from heaven which introduced polygamy, and when I hear him further declare that he had "known" --(this was to show that the Mormons are the Latter Day Saints, and have new revelations), "that in more than <HI REND="italics">ten thousand instances</HI>
184.sgm: he had known the sick to send for the Apostles and Elders, and they had gone and anointed them with oil, and prayed for them, and they <HI REND="italics">all recovered</HI>
184.sgm:," I can only say, I do not believe it; and I do not believe he does; or, if he does, he is under the full power of fanaticism.  They suffered outrages in Missouri and Illinois which I deplore and condemn with abhorrence; but I cannot shut my eyes to the fact that the whole system was begotten by an arrant impostor, or else the judgment of all the rest of our age is lost.  Let me add, too, that in conversing with the Mormons you receive the impression continually, that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:are under the power of a strange spell.  It creates an unwavering faith, so that they talk of the certainty of their individual salvation, when <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
184.sgm: feel that, at the very time, they are living in the habitual violation of some of the plainest precepts of the Bible.  It does not alter the case, that they have suffered, and are willing to suffer, for their belief.  Fanaticism cannot be distinguished from religion, if you look only at its martyrs.</p><P>On arriving at a certain age, all the youth, of both sexes, are baptized publicly, by immersion, with peculiar rites; and then they have what is called the "endowment" system--rooms in which the sexes, at the right time, are initiated into the secret mysteries of Mormonism.</p><P>"Do you know," I asked a shrewd one of the creed, "what the `endowment' system means?"</p><P>"Certainly I do."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>"Could you explain it?"</p><P>"I suppose I could."</p><P>"Will you be good enough to do it?"</p><P>"Why," said he, with a peculiar twinkle of the eye, "it is the way to make a Mormon!" and that was all I could get out of him.  "O my soul, come not thou into their secret; unto their assembly, mine honor, be not thou united."</p><P>But there is a step beyond this; they also are "baptized for the dead," on this wise: You are a Mormon; you have had a parent, an uncle, an aunt, or some other dear relative, who died before the Latter Day Dispensation, or, at all events, without becoming a Mormon.  You now come forward as the <HI REND="italics">proxy</HI>
184.sgm: of that relative, are baptized again, and in heaven this is credited to your friends, and insures their salvation.  How many you may thus deliver from purgatory, or raise up to higher glory, and how often the charm will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:work, I do not know.  You may say they are honest in all this; it may be so, but it is the darkest fanaticism, notwithstanding.</p><P>(c.)  It is a system of irresponsible power; no one knows the secrets of the ledger.  But through our whole nation, Brigham Young is supposed to be the richest man in the United States.  In the first place, accountable to nobody, not even to tell what becomes of the money, there are the hundreds of thousands of dollars for the use of water; there is so much for the surveying of every lot sold; and then there are "tithing-houses," one or more in every city and village of the one hundred and thirty towns.  In these is gathered annually one tenth of all that the ground yields, of all that every man or woman raises by skill, by labor, by trade, by mechanics, or any other method; not one tenth of the <HI REND="italics">gains</HI>
184.sgm:, but one tenth part of <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
184.sgm: that human industry produces.  I need not say that this sum must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:be enormous.  You receive the impression that Brigham Young owns the whole, the soil, the machinery, the industry, the cattle, and all the Mormons besides; and practically he does.  As he is a prophet, inspired of heaven, he can do no wrong, and is too sacred to be questioned; and as President and Governor, he has the power of handling the property as he pleases.  The question is not, whether he is the most honest man in the world or not, but whether he has not an irresponsible power, such as is safe in no man's hands.  I do not take or receive the things that are said and printed about him, and language said to fall from his lips, for they would not be endured to be repeated here; but I take the great and admitted facts of his position, and say that if he does not abuse human nature, and wrench from toil and poverty enough to make him rich beyond all other men, it is not for want of opportunity, or power, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:temptation to do it.  I am sure I don't know any other man who would not, as I should fear, be overcome by a temptation so great.</p><P>(d.)  I regard the Mormon system as a system of insupportable licentiousness.  It is well known not only that Polygamy is allowed, but is woven into their religion, and sanctioned thereby as the perfection of all religion.  They not only have a plurality of wives, but, like the Indians in owning horses, seem to feel that they are to be esteemed and honored in proportion to the number they have.  In the first house I entered, the man has five wives.  The man at the house at which we stopped, has four; the first seemed to be grieving and hiding in her chamber, the second waiting on the public tables, the third taking care of her baby, and the fourth playing honey-moon.  In the same street lives a man who has four wives, the mother and her three daughters!</p><P>We were told that Young has three daughters, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:all the wives of one man.  I talked with an Apostle who has but five wives, and twenty-four children.  I saw a Bishop who has nine wives, and one of three councillors who has nine, and children, I don't know how many.  By no possible means can you learn how many wives Brigham Young has, even if he knows himself; and they do not hesitate to say he does not always know his own children.  It was a matter of wonder to me how a man could support so many wives.  I told them it put us upon the strain to support one.  But their reply was, that <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
184.sgm: wives supported themselves: they make gloves, knit, dry figs, peaches, and apples, put up garden seeds, spin and weave linen, and are always busy about something that will yield a little.  But if you think, as a community, these wives have many fashionable bonnets, many silk dresses, many gold watches, or rich furs, a single glance over the assembly, when they are gathered together, will undeceive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:you.  Their rule is, when the husband takes a second wife, the first wife shall solemnly give her husband away to the new wife, and so she to the third; and so on through the list.  If you ask if this is done <HI REND="italics">cheerfully</HI>
184.sgm:, they will tell you, Yes.  I say I don't believe it!  It is not human nature, nor woman's nature, to do so, and all the testimony in the world would not convince me to the contrary.  I questioned one of the Apostles on this point, and his reply was, "O, our wives understand this, and do it."</p><P>"Yes; but suppose the wife don't want to do it--what then?"</p><P>"O, the man is the glory of the woman, and this glory is not to be tarnished by the notions of the woman."</p><P>Then, when you know what the human heart is, and when you know of the case in point, where the second wife went to get the first wife to join with her to prevent the coming in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:of the third wife, and receiving the answer, "No! you broke my heart, and I don't care how soon yours is broken," you are more than certain that the instincts of woman's heart must be eradicated or killed before she can ever submit to a degradation so terrible.</p><P>Add to this, their "marrying by proxy;" i.e., like the baptism described, as a matter of religion, a man marries, and raises up a family of children, not, forsooth, because he wants to, but so as to have this wife and children passed over to some relative or kinsman in the next world, who was so unfortunate as to have but one wife in this world; and thus they become his crown of glory!  If you don't call that charity "in the long run," pray what is it?  Abomination, if not charity!</p><P>The fact is, these second, third, and ninth wives are nothing but concubines, and they very well know it.  A well-dressed woman, and one who had been highly educated, came <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:to me, and introduced herself as "Mrs. Cobb, from Boston;" and then went on to tell me how she had forsaken her husband and children, and come away from them, when her eyes became opened to see the spirituality of Mormonism.  This shameful tale she called "bearing testimony to a Massachusetts Minister."  I afterwards learned that she is one of Brigham Young's wives, or concubines, --not calling herself Mrs. Young, but "Mrs. Cobb."</p><P>You will want to know how such a fifth or ninth part of a wife looks and acts.  I reply, the elder women look sad and worn, as if the path had been and is a weary one, --a path of thorns and disappointments, --and when age creeps on, and they have to reap neglect, --being not now necessary to the husband, even from habit, --solitary and alone, with nothing divine to support or cheer them.  The young women look as they are, brazen-faced and stupidly bold--very much as wrong-doers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:of their sex appear in every part of the world.  As for that purity which William Hepworth Dixon ascribes to them, and which they claim, I have only to say, that the Gentiles who dwell there, and know them well, scout at the idea; and if you want further evidence, go into their market-house, and you will hear language from these young Mormon women, which, for obscenity and vileness, can hardly be equalled in the vilest alley in New York.  It would take a great amount of rhetoric to make you forget what you may there hear in half an hour.</p><P>As for their plea that this system is in the order of nature, and it would be a blessing to introduce it into Massachusetts, where we have so many more females than males, let me simply say that if the system were not abhorrent to the Bible and to the best instincts of our nature, the fact that in India, where polygamy prevails, and has done so for generations, and in Mormondom, where it prevails, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:females born are altogether out of all proportion to the males, and that, were the system to prevail during a few generations, the disparity of the sexes would be still greater, and the evil sought to be remedied, greatly increased.</p><P>What will be the end of these things?  Will Mormonism, increased continually by emigrantion, be perpetual?  Or how will it terminate?  It is very plain that we cannot, and shall not, persecute a hundred thousand people; we shall not make war upon their homes.  But as for receiving a community, almost every leading member of whom we should shut up in the penitentiary, if they should come here and do as they do there, into the sisterhood of States--we never shall do that.  Mormonism is a blotch on the civilization of this age, a mockery of the affections of the human heart, a caricature of the family relation, and a burlesque on the religion of Jesus Christ.</p><P>They are building a railroad to join the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:Pacific Railroad at Ogden, forty miles.  I hope it will be like the hole which the Irishman dug into his cellar--"good to let the darkness out, and the light in."  Isolated as they were in their mountain valley, they might have lived longer, had not the iron horse climbed over the mountains and snorted at their door.  They can't keep their people there.  As for the vauntings of Brigham Young, that he will resist the United States authority as much and as long as he pleases, he is too shrewd a fellow not to know better.  He tried the patience of the country once, when he built and armed forts in the Echo Can&tilde;on to resist our troops, and when our General actually treated with him, and agreed that if he would go home and call off his men, he would not pitch his tents within fifty miles of Salt Lake City!  He tried the patience of our country in resisting the United States courts and their operations, when by his influence he kept a Mormon jury from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:rendering a righteous and legal verdict.  The Judge kept them before him and at work on that verdict eleven months, and then, from sheer exhaustion, had to discharge them, and justice had to fall in the streets!  Nor will the country forget that at this very hour, he is setting the authority of the United States at defiance, in creating, by his Legislature, and at his bidding, "a Court of Probate," and declaring it "co-ordinate" with the "United States Court."  Instead of having the United States Marshal select the grand and traverse juries, as is law, and as is done in other territories, <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
184.sgm: Mormon court makes the selection and appointment, and thus the United States court plays second fiddle to the Mormon "Probate Court."  I don't believe Congress knows that such a game is now being played.</p><P>A little out of the city, up on the edge of the foot-hills, is "Camp Douglas," and there are United States troops, commanded by a most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:judicious, gentlemanly, as well as brave, General.  He knows very well that he is there as a little army of observation, a kind of moral power.  And he knows, and Young knows also, that after the terrible conflict we have had to establish the supremacy of our government, rebellion will never again be allowed; and that the first motions of resistance to this government which Young makes, will recoil and crush him.  Time, moving on, creating public opinion, will sweep Mormonism away.  While isolated in the deep valley, everywhere shut away by great deserts, a thousand miles from mankind, they could uphold their anomalous community; but the railroads have brought the world to them, and their mines will be sought and opened, and commerce and business will compete with their attempts to shut them away by high-handed laws.  There is no great, bright future for Mormonism.  It is like one of those poisonous mushrooms that spring up in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:night, which men shun, and which die away, nobody knows or cares how.  The instincts of the heart, the experience of the past, the civilization of the present, the spirit of this century, and the plain teachings of the Bible, are all against it.  There are not enough unbalanced minds created, who can get together, and long hold together, or make a great community.  My own firm impression is, that Brigham Young will shortly have a revelation that polygamy is no longer to be permitted.  And the sooner he receives this revelation, the better.  My honest belief too, is, that there is not a woman among them who is not conscious of degradation, and who would not exult at deliverance, and who is not a victim of the deepest shame, even though they try to make her believe that her shameless life is sanctioned by religion, and that her heaven will be glorious in proportion as she ministers to the lust of the other sex here.</p><P>God has created the world, and put it under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:certain laws, on the obeying or breaking of which, our happiness or misery depends.  In Eden, when and where he created man in the fulness of happiness and perfection, he gave man and woman to each other--one husband and one wife.  These, with their children, make the family, the home.  And whoever, in his wisdom or in his wickedness, tries to be wiser than this, will find that he is wrestling against the eternal laws which God has ordained, and he can never succeed.  God will vindicate his own wisdom.  Silently and secretly he puts causes in operation which men cannot detect or counteract, and which bring down our Babels, which undermine our strongholds, and which mock our wisdom.  I pretend not to say in what manner the power will come, which will make this horrible system of open licentiousness to be a thing of the past; but that it is on the way, I have no doubt.  Outraged decency will demand redress.  Open defiance of the piety of the earth and the will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:of God will meet a rebuke that will bring it to nought, and this stain upon our name, this plague-spot of Sodom, that makes a great nation blush, will be removed.  And may God speed the day.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>THE HIGHWAY OF NATIONS, OR THE CONTINENTAL RAILROADS.</p><P>LET us go back twenty years.  Then the cry of "gold," "gold," on the Pacific, had rung through the land.  Ships were urging their way around Cape Horn, and emigrants were thronging their way westward, regardless of comfort, and even of life.  Over the burning deserts, over the snowy Nevadas, down into the deep can&tilde;ons they poured.  In a single summer the overland emigration was estimated at thirty thousand people, and with their cattle, computed at one hundred thousand, and their wagons, would have made a continuous train of more than seven hundred miles in length!  It took six months to go from the Missouri to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:California, --a journey of the most intense suffering to men and to animals, from hunger, and still more from thirst.  It is estimated that the wagon-freights across the mountains, before the commencement of the railroad, amounted to full thirteen million dollars in a single year.</p><P>If the emigrant was caught out in the winter, it took him five months longer, and with sufferings and dangers still increased.</p><P>In ten years after gold was discovered, California gained three times as large a population as the entire nation did the first sixty-eight years after the landing of the Pilgrims on Plymouth Rock.  A very great part of this overland route was over the great deserts, where there were no towns to supply wants, no tree to shade the weary, and for hundreds of miles, no water but the intolerable alkali water, for man or for beast.  Though, in the midst of these deserts, sharp, flinty, naked rocks, shot up by volcanoes, are seen here and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:there, yet they only make the landscape the more dreary.  As the emigrant crept along, from ten to twenty miles a day, under the burning sun, and in the cloud of alkaline dust which his team made, the scene grew more awful as he went westward.</p><P>One man, who had thus passed, twenty years ago, told us that he walked alone thirty miles for one drink of water; and Dr. Harkness, of Sacramento, told us that he actually walked sixty miles to find a drink of water, and then could get only a spoonful at a time.  All along on this alkaline region, often white as chalk, you still see the bones of cattle, forsaken wagons, chains, kettles, and the like, strung along the trail of the emigrant.  When these poor wanderers came in sight of Truckee River, the men and women would raise a shout of joy, and the poor cattle would gather up their remaining strength, and rush into the stream--maddened and uncontrollable.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>When they reached the pass through which they were to make a path over the Nevada Mountains, and as they came to the brow of the mountain, till they reached the valleys of the Golden State, they had to let their wagons down the mountain side by ropes coiled around the trees, and thus, step by step, and tree by tree, they let their wagons down; the trees showing to this day the cuts of the ropes through the bark, and often into the wood.</p><P>What with building bridges and rafts to get over the streams, making paths on the mountain side, where no path was, --what with watching against the inroads of the Indians by night, and what with hunger, and thirst, and sickness, and deaths, we need not wonder that it was a formidable thing to emigrate to California.  And yet, what a magnet was gold to draw them there!</p><P>In 1846, just twenty-three years ago, when Fremont was making his explorations over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:these desolate regions, and was burying his faithful Indian guide, "Truckee," on the banks of the river that now bears his name, and at a spot where the town "Truckee" now stands, there was a Welshman at Dubuque, Iowa, by the name of John Plumbe (educated in our country), who began to talk and write about a railroad from the Great Lakes, across the continent, to Oregon and the Pacific Ocean.  He was an engineer by profession.  When he first broached the subject, there was scarcely any railroad; and only a very thin population, west of Ohio.  Chicago was a little, unknown village in the centre of a vast, unoccupied prairie.  No railroad had been made between the Atlantic and the great basin of the interior.  A few trappers and hordes of Indians seemed to claim all west of the Mississippi.  West of the population, lay an unknown land of two thousand three hundred miles, over which the dream-railroad of Plumbe was to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:traverse; unscaled mountains, awful deserts, and wide rivers lay between the basin of the Mississippi and the Pacific.  Yet never, till the day of his death, did Plumbe relinquish his favorite plan, and he actually lived to see his dream being wrought into reality.  Asa Whitney was the next earnest and great toiler to start the enterprise, and did more than any other man to make the nation think whether the thing were possible.</p><P>When our friends in California came to understand that they were to stay there, find their homes there, build up a great city and State there; that they were five thousand miles from the East, and it took nearly a month to get to or from New York, and forty cents to get a letter; and that they were, in case of a foreign war, peculiarly exposed, --they began to move in the matter of testing the practicability of a railroad across the continent.  When it was brought before Congress, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:whatever shape it came, the South were a unit against it.  They had already laid their plans to divide the country into three parts, the North, the South, and the West.  In that case, California, with its virgin soil and tropical climate, would fall to them; but if a railroad were built, it would most naturally connect the Pacific with the arena of freedom.  Hence, it was not till the young State had grown up into manhood, and not till we were actually involved in the late war, that our government felt the importance of having a railroad connecting the West with the rest of the continent, so that, in case of a new war, we could get to them.  The war seems to have been the weight that turned the scale.  Hence it was, that though the ground had been thoroughly surveyed in 1853 and 1854, the government had not felt ready to take hold of it.  Congress had, however, appropriated two hundred and forty thousand dollars <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:for surveys, and six surveying parties were sent out in 1853, and three more in 1854, composed almost entirely of men belonging to the corps of topographical engineers, among whom was General George B. McClellan.  These parties surveyed <HI REND="italics">ten</HI>
184.sgm: different routes, beginning at Fulton, Arkansas, up to Minnesota on the east, and from San Diego to Puget Sound, Washington Territory, on the west.  These surveys were carefully and elaborately reported and published in thirteen quite thick quarto volumes, and very beautifully illustrated by drawings.  Let us now briefly follow the middle route, or the one finally adopted.  The surveying party, which we will now join in imagination, start at Omaha, on the Missouri River, nine hundred and eight feet above tide-water, passing through the valley of the Platte River, crossing it once, till they reach the highest summit of the Rocky Mountains, Sherman, eight thousand four hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and twenty-four above the ocean.  This is the highest point in all the survey; but the rise has been so gradual, that you can't realize that you are on the summit of the Continent.</p><P>You now pass over what is mostly a desert plateau, four hundred and twenty-one miles, to Echo Can&tilde;on, from five thousand to seven thousand five hundred feet elevation.  You begin to understand what a desert means.  It is a plateau, once the bottom of an ocean, heaved up by volcanic agency, while here and there in it, is a sharp thrusting up of rocks in ridges, looking as if they belonged to some world, worn out, and left.  Passing through that wonderful place, Echo Can&tilde;on, on each side of which the mountains rise to a grand and even awful height, bare, crumbling, decaying, now composed of pudding-stone, filled with holes like a honeycomb, now blushing red with red sandstone, here and there rocks left standing, looking like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:forts, or towers, or churches, or men and women turned into stone and standing in groups, and now a curious place, rocks perhaps five feet thick, thrust up, thirty feet high, twenty apart, and extending parallel up the mountain eight hundred feet.  This is called the "Devil's Slide."  And then you come to a place where the River Weber rushes out of the can&tilde;on at a spot where the mountains close up together, giving space that must be enlarged by tunnels and a bridge to let the railroad out and over the fierce, maddened Weber River.  This is called the "Devil's Gate."  You now enter another plateau, about five hundred miles in extent, but ribbed with naked mountains, rising from five thousand to seven thousand feet.  This second and last plateau brings you to the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  Where you cross over this lofty ridge, at the pass, near Donner Lake, is seven thousand and sixty-two feet above the sea.  You must now descend two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:thousand five hundred and seventeen feet in the next fifty miles.  In the next ninety-eight miles you must descend six thousand nine hundred and sixty-six feet more.  You are now over and in the valley of the Sacramento.  This was the path marked out, when, in 1862, Congress passed the Pacific Railroad Bill, to connect the Atlantic and the Pacific.</p><P>At that time, the five hundred miles from Chicago to Omaha had to be built by private enterprise, in order to connect the two systems, this five hundred miles being not before constructed.</p><P>Having "surveyed" the route, let us now build the two roads, the one commencing at the Missouri and the other at Sacramento.  We will begin at our end.  You notice a great number of huge cast-iron tubes lying on the banks of the river.  Those are to be used in constructing the great bridge, not yet built.  Those hollow tubes are seventy feet long and eight feet in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:diameter.  They are to stand, one below low-water mark, and the other above it, most firmly riveted together.  This will give each tube one hundred and forty feet in length.  They are to be placed, eighteen in number, and weighing two thousand five hundred tons, upright, and then all the water is to be pumped out, and then each filled with solid masonry.  The expense will be two million dollars, and it may take them two years yet to complete it.  And now, under the iron energy and indomitable will of our own townsman, Thomas C. Durant, the men, the materials, the teams, the tools, the ties, and the rails, begin to accumulate at Omaha.  Eighteen thousand men and six thousand teams are ready.  At first, everything, even their locomotives, have to be brought from one to two hundred miles on wagons, the railroad from Chicago not being built.  Every mile requires six hundred tons of rail.  The ties are laid quite near to each other, being two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:thousand six hundred and fifty ties to a mile, while our roads in this part of the country average but one thousand seven hundred to the mile.  There is no timber, not even a tree, on the route, and the ties must be collected from six different States and two Territories.  Every rail is riveted on both sides with the next, with wrought iron plates.  For the first five or six hundred miles, the road is so straight, that as you look back or forward between the telegraph poles, it seems as if you were looking between two streets.</p><P>More than fifty temporary bridges have to be built, while the permanent ones are being carefully and strongly made, at Chicago.  One of these bridges, the North Platte, two hundred and eighty-two miles west of Omaha, is to be of iron, three thousand feet long, estimated at a cost of one million dollars.</p><P>And now we come to the rough, strange camp life of the workmen.  Cars containing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:provisions, cooking apparatus, and beds for these eighteen thousand men, supply their wants.  Tents, like those of an army, also accompany the working multitude.  The greater part of the workmen have been soldiers in the war, and are accustomed to habits of obedience and camp life.  Nine out of ten of all the workmen had been in the army.  They had learned to love out-of-door life, and were initiated to hardships.  They knew how to burrow their temporary houses in the most sheltered spots.  They laid down the sleepers, having first graded the ground fifty miles ahead, spike down the rails, rivet them, and press on from two to four miles a day.  The whole thing must be so managed that there shall be no waiting for timber, ties, or rails.  When all ready, four rails were drawn from the cars, and laid in their places in a minute.  Ten spikes to a rail, and three blows upon the spike, and four hundred rails to the mile, and twenty-one million of times <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:must these ponderous hammers fall upon the spike heads, before the road is done!</p><P>So they gradually rise up, ninety-two feet to the mile, from Cheyenne to the summit of the Rocky Mountains, when they chisel a path through, and press onward.  Men from all countries and nations are among the workmen.  They are beyond laws and magistrates, civil officers, and restraints of civilized society.  Worse than all, the gamblers, the cutthroats, the convicts escaped from prisons, the vilest and the most atrocious men and women, congregate where are fifteen or eighteen thousand men, each receiving four dollars a day.</p><P>When a point is taken for a new terminus, say fifty or eighty miles off, these rascals rush there, lay out the tent city, open their grogshops, filled with the vilest stuff that ever entered a man's throat, open their gambling-houses, their theatres, and their hell-houses, filled with shameless women; and they now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:proceed to organize a city government, elect their own men to the office of Marshal and the like, and by the time the workmen get there, they have everything their own way.  They would rob and garrote a man for ten dollars.  The consequence was, that violence and lawlessness had to be met with their own weapons.  Every man was expected to carry at least one revolver.  The workmen had, in self-defence, to form Vigilance Committees, and make and execute law.  They would spot these villains, and when any one's cup was full, would send an armed band into the gambling or drinking saloon, march him quietly out, impanel a jury, try him, give him an hour or two to prepare for death, and before morning light he was hanged.  As many as twelve have been found thus suspended in a single camp, in a single night.  At the Idaho mines, one hundred and twenty of these cutthroats were thus hanged in three months.  At two places, at which our train <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:stopped, on two successive nights, a man was murdered at each place, and was buried before breakfast in the morning, without judge or jury.  It would be impossible to say how many murders were committed, or how many the Vigilance Committee avenged.  Probably they hanged very few who were not murderers.  The rope was the only thing the villains feared.  When an inquiry was made about any one so disposed of, they would say, "I understood he broke his neck in climbing a tree."</p><P>A curious feature, unprecedented in railroad making, was, that the Printing press accompanied the working trains, and three daily papers were constantly issued!  These temporary cities, built of cloth, or, at best, a few boards and a cloth roof, would have drug-shops, whiskey-saloons, and all manner of goods; the occupants paying from fifteen hundred to two thousand dollars to the railroad company for ground enough to place his tent on.  As the road <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:moved on, these cities would pull up and move on, and be abandoned.  You now see only empty tin cans where they stood.  In one of these, lands to the amount of thirty thousand dollars were sold, where not an inhabitant now remains.</p><P>In the first of these plateaus through which we pass, is a low kind of mountain, that looks like a huge rhinoceros, which had lain down to die, and which had died and shrivelled up, till his skin settled down upon him, bare, rough, and full of wrinkles.  Strange as it may seem, in this treeless, herbless, dreary place, these hills are full of bituminous coal, soft, of fair quality, and good for the locomotive.  It is so near, that it can almost be shovelled into the cars, as they stop before the mines.  They have been dug only to draw from the top, where the air has had access to it; but when they come to get down deeper, the coal will doubtless be of a better quality.  I mention this coal, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:because without this, I do not see how the road could ever have been built, or kept running when built.  So destitute of wood is the whole route, that in going from Omaha, the builders passed one thousand miles before they came to a tree!  That stands marked--"The Thousand Mile Tree!"</p><P>So they build, pushing on, summer and winter, with an energy never equalled.  I have often heard it said, the ties are nothing but cotton-wood, which is a species of poplar.  This is true only to a limited extent, till they could get oak ties; and even the cotton-wood was carefully <HI REND="italics">Burnetized</HI>
184.sgm:, as it is called, which makes them as durable as any other wood used, --as they claim.  The rest are oak, or a species of fir, very much like our larch, or tamarack.  Where it was built in the summer, it will compare well with any other road; and where it was built in the winter, it is being rapidly made good.  I was surprised to find it as good as it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:is.  For three hundred miles west of Omaha the cars run at the rate of thirty-four miles to the hour, and fifty-five an hour have been run, which no engineer would dare do on a poor road.</p><P>I may mention, in passing, that Brigham Young, in order to keep his people secluded from the world, took a large contract to build, each way in front of his people, and thus for a time effected his object.  Another strong reason probably was, it was the first good opportunity he had had of drawing money into his settlement, i.e., into his own hands; for he received very much of it in pay for their emigration, as one of his confidential friends told me.</p><P>Let us now build at the other end, beginning at Sacramento, under the supervision of Charles Crocker, a second Durant, and appropriately called a railroad King.  On the anniversary of the battle of New Orleans under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:General Jackson, eighteen months earlier than we commenced at Omaha, ground was broken at Sacramento, and Governor Stanford, amid nods and smiles of incredulity, shovelled the first dirt from a wagon into a mud-puddle, where the road was to commence.  This was in 1863.  And now the same unconquerable energy was needed, for the difficulties in the way seemed insuperable.  Eight thousand Chinamen--and better workmen could not have been found--were put to work.  Among all these there were no murders, no vigilance committees needed, no riots, no whiskey-shops, and no drunkenness.  These children of heathenism put our race and religion to the blush.  Besides these the company often had five thousand men at work elsewhere.</p><P>The work was to be done on hills and mountains, some of which were so soft and sliding that they were almost impassable in the rainy season, and some were rocks so hard that it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:seemed impossible to drill them.  The rails and most of the materials had to be shipped at New York, and carried nineteen thousand miles around Cape Horn.  It was all a very high grade, some of it as high as one hundred and sixteen feet to the mile.  Here, too, we ought to say, the road could never have been built without the Chinamen.</p><P>At one time thirty-one vessels were urging their way round Cape Horn, laden with iron, locomotives, and materials for this road.  On the Sierra Nevadas were twenty-five saw-mills, yielding six hundred and twenty-five thousand feet of lumber daily, supplied by the axes of a thousand men, as they rang up over places where the axe had never been heard before.  More than one hundred miles of ties were always in advance.  The almost inaccessible mountains poured down timber and stone without measure.  The two roads handled and laid down about seven hundred tons of iron daily, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:during the six days in the week, and once, on a strife, one road actually laid over ten miles of rail in one day, and the other one eleven miles, --together making a distance farther than an emigrant team could travel in a day!</p><P>The whole State was moved and straitened to gather all the supplies needed.  Up, up crept the road.  They meet a mountain which they can neither climb nor bore.  So around it and up it the road winds, till it gets high enough to move off on the ridge of another mountain; and as you wind around this new Cape Horn, you look down fifteen hundred feet, and yet see the peak still five hundred feet above you, and feel that you ought not to be safe.  Over deep gulches (a California word), by high and giddy trestled work, the foundations most carefully laid against the rush of waters, and often the waters turned off and away from the abutments, --the road goes.  They come to solid mountains, and they blast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:them away, so that the locomotive can cling to their sides, or they push a tunnel through them.  There are fifteen of these tunnels, and, united, would amount to six thousand two hundred and sixty-two feet, or more than ten times the tunnelling between Boston and Albany.  Down the sides of the Cape Horn Mountain rushes the American River, looking like a mere brooklet, while all around the mountains rise, till they terminate in perpetual snows.</p><P>Nestled in, under the eye of everlasting snows, lies the little "Summit Valley," a mile long and half a mile wide, --as if a child of sunshine had crept up to see how it would seem to summer among the desolations of broken rocks, and volcanic mountains, and eternal snows.</p><P>At an altitude over seven thousand feet, far higher than Mount Washington, in New Hampshire, and twice or three times higher than any other railroad in this country, is the long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:tunnel, bored through rock as hard as porphyry, and then the road clings to the mountain-side in a place that had to be blasted out--not by gunpowder, --for that had lost power, --but by glycerine.  Just at the dusk of evening, when life would be least exposed, you might have looked up a thousand feet above Donner Lake, and seen the workmen fire their glycerine blasts, when huge masses of rock and a world of powdered <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
184.sgm: poured out of the mountainside like the explosions of a score of thunderclaps, as all this came thundering down, and rolling down the deep declivities, while the echoes rolled and ree&die;choed from can&tilde;on to can&tilde;on, till they were lost upon the distant mountain-tops.</p><P>No finer, more sublime scenery can be found than that seen from the different points of this Central Pacific Railroad.  Huge battlements were laid, deep gorges spanned, mountains climbed and bored, till the home of eternal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:winter was invaded.  The sixteen tunnels tell the story of the rocks.  And here, where the avalanche slides and thunders, are the sheds, strong, and inviting for him to slide over.  And where the snow falls from twenty to forty feet deep, are sheds supported by mighty timbers, the full round trees used, and these sheds already nearly forty miles in length--the grandest specimens of timber-strength I ever saw.</p><P>And now we have climbed the Nevadas, and again come to the everlasting deserts.  We have met with one covered with alkali, white as snow, and forty miles wide.  I have studied not a little to ascertain to what use these vast beds of alkali can ever be put; can they, should it be possible to sink artesian wells through the alkali and bring up pure water, ever be washed free from the salts, and made fruitful?  How deep is the deposit?  The Mormons inform me that in such alkaline <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:deposits, the deeper they go, the stronger the salts, and that they cannot be made fruitful by irrigation.  Of what possible use can they ever be, then, to the human family?  Can they be used for manure to enrich other portions of our country?  My friend and travelling companion<ANCHOR ID="n0236-01">*</ANCHOR>
184.sgm: brought some of it home, and put it into the hands of a skilful expert to find if it would make soap, and if so, what would be its worth <HI REND="italics">here</HI>
184.sgm:.  The result is not so favorable as I supposed possible, inasmuch as there are other ingredients mixed with the soda.  Still, I am not quite sure that those vast repositories of alkaline matter will not hereafter become an article of commerce.  May it not yet be, that, as the cars pass up the valley of the Truckee, the traveller will look out and see a huge, broad building, occupied by some Yankee, with a glaring sign, "The Desert Universal Soap Factory?"</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n0236-01">Thaddeus Clapp and lady, of Pittsfield.</NOTE>
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184.sgm:<P>As to which railroad deserves the more credit, it is not easy to say.  They are both the products of great skill, energy, and labor.</p><P>The Pacific is the more thoroughly built, the Union is by far the longer, and began much later.  They are built in a time for shortness unparalleled in the history of railroads.  They are monuments of wonderful achievement, even in the nineteenth century.  But they are done, and we will now attend a wonderful wedding on the great plateau of the mountains.</p><P>It is Monday morning.  We are in the first cars that ever crossed the continent of America!  We have crossed over fifty temporary bridges, one of which had just broken down.  It was over a swift, rushing river, with a fall of sixty-five feet just below the bridge.  It had been mended, and we reached it in the darkness of night.  They were afraid to let the engine rest on it, and so they back us up to the bridge, and very carefully unfasten the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:coupling, and let our cars, one by one, run over.  We are in the big, heavy car, and we stand on the platform, see the foaming waters, fifty feet below us, and hear their savage roar, and we hold our breath, till we are over.</p><P>But now we are on a plateau, surrounded by dreary mountains.  That bold headland yonder is the object at which thousands of men, on both roads, have been looking for six years.  It is "Promontory Point," on the very back-bone of the continent.  Engines and trains from the East, and engines and trains from the West, some covered with flags, stand facing each other.  A rod or two between them has, as yet, no ties and no rails,</p><P>One man, West Evans, who had furnished the Central company with two hundred and fifty thousand ties, and who had furnished the first tie put down, was there with the last, a beautiful specimen of the California laurel, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:was duly laid down, and then taken up and preserved.  The ties of the Central road were all sawed, of red wood; those of the Union were hewed.</p><P>At the appointed time, the Master Spirits of the two roads meet.  White workmen from the East and olive Chinamen from the West meet, bearing the last sleepers and the last rails.  A few boards, set up like a roof, is the telegraph office.  A few tents, bearing the sign of "Saloon," or "Restaurant," compose the place.  A rough flag-staff, with our dear old flag on it, tells us we are yet in our country, and the glorious flag is a witness of the scene.  A regiment of soldiers, on their way to Alaska, are present to see the occasion.  Telegraph arrangements have been made, so that every telegraph in the land shall be connected.  A skilful officer has been detailed by the Government to carry the wire down to the "Golden Gate," below San Francisco, and attach it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:to a fifteen-inch Parrott gun, to see if a gun <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
184.sgm: be fired eight hundred miles off.  At the appointed hour, the last tie is laid; and now, before the rails are laid, the telegraph flashes through the country, "Are you all ready?"  Back, from scores of cities comes the echo, "All ready."  Again the telegraph says, "At the third tap" it will be done.  "We understand," say the wires.  In Washington, Cincinnati, Chicago, all the western cities, in New York, Boston, even in Halifax, in all the Pacific cities, people stand grouped and breathless around the telegraph offices.  "We are now going to attend prayers--hats off," say the wires, and in all these places they take off hats and listen to the prayer as it leaps over the wires, sentence by sentence, to places four thousand miles apart.  The officer at the fort at the Golden Gate can hardly retain his seat for excitement.  What a place in which to pray!  Was prayer ever offered there before?  Was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:ever prayer heard by mortal ears four thousand miles away, before?  The occasion would have been overwhelming, had we not felt that God, who had lifted up this continent, and had placed us on the summit, and who had given to man his skill, --God, God alone is great!  The Governors of four States or Territories, with their gold and silver spikes, are there--each golden one having nearly four hundred dollars in it.  And now the last rail is laid and spiked.  A telegraph wire is coiled around a silver hammer, and the President of the Central Pacific just taps the head of the golden spike!  That tap proclaimed to the country, and through Europe, that the work is done!  The railroads are wedded into one!  That gentle tap fired the big gun which the officer was watching at the Fort, and instantly set all the bells in the land a ringing, and announced that the greatest work ever attempted in railroads was a success!  In three minutes the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:telegrams came back from all the cities--"The bells are ringing, and the people rejoicing."  The whole thing seemed a wild dream.  The telegraphing seemed to magic, and we could hardly realize that creatures so small and feeble as men, had accomplished a work so great.  It made all other works of the kind seem small and insignificant.  This was May 10, 1869.  The little ring on my finger, bearing the significant words, "The Mountain Wedding, May 10, 1869," and presented me in commemoration of the occasion, was made, as I know certainly, from a piece of one of the golden spikes.<ANCHOR ID="N0242-01">*</ANCHOR>
184.sgm: And thus the marriage was consummated, under the bright sun, in the desert place, and under the eye of Promontory Point--hereafter to become historical.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="N0242-01">Presented by David Hewes, Esq., of San Francisco.</NOTE>
184.sgm:<P>Perhaps there were three thousand men, including workmen, present, besides a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:sprinkling of ladies; but in reality, the millions of our country were present.  I understand there is to be an historical painting of the scene.</p><P>If you ask how I came to be there, and be a participator on the occasion, I can only say, that as it was without my expectation or seeking, I do not feel especially to blame; and as for my participating, you know that when men cannot get better materials, they have to use such as they can obtain.</p><P>Allow me, now, to attempt to convey to you my own impressions as to the <HI REND="italics">results</HI>
184.sgm: of this great work--premising, that I consider railroading but just in its infancy, and that we have no conception of what the system is to become.  I do not look at it merely as a new and short pathway by which we may visit that wonderful land, California--as a means of bringing us fruits that have ripened under their rich sunlight--and as an advance in the progress of civilization; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:as giving all the institutions of the east power to kiss the young sister at the West, and breathe our love upon her, as she "sits, the highway of nations."</p><P>There were two minds that saw this result many years ago; I mean the Rev. Theron Baldwin, of New York, who has planted and matured, as the exponent of the College Society, more Colleges and permanent Literary Institutions, than any other ten men that ever lived.  More than ten years ago he saw this railroad, and called it "the highway of nations."  He looked over these vast heights, and began to dig Jacob's wells on the Pacific, not waiting for the road to be built.  The other was Thomas H. Benton, who, twenty years ago, urged this work upon his country with an eloquence worthy of the man.  I wish I had time and space to quote his own beautiful language.</p><P>This remarkable speech of Mr. Benton was made at the first <HI REND="italics">National</HI>
184.sgm: Convention in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:behalf of a railroad to the Pacific, held at St. Louis, October, 1849.</p><P>The HON. THOMAS ALLEN, of Pittsfield, wrote the call for this Convention, addressed to the people of the United States; also the address of the Convention to the Nation; also the Memorial to Congress.  He started the first Pacific Railroad ever actually commenced, now running from St. Louis to Sheridan, six hundred and ninety-five miles, --was its President over three years, -- took the first locomotive ("Pacific No. 3") from Taunton, Massachusetts, that ever crossed the Mississippi: he also wrote the Memorial to Congress, urging them to grant lands and loan bonds.  The plan thus suggested was adopted, and is the basis of the Pacific Railroads.</p><P>Thus two Pittsfield men, Allen and Durant, have been very prominent in these great works.  Can any other town claim like or equal honors?</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>Benton pleads that the nation shall build the railroad from the Missouri to the Pacific.  He seems to stand higher than any one of his fellows.  He looks back three hundred and fifty years, and sees the great Columbus, sent out by a King and Queen, searching for the East by sailing west.  He sees him checked by a continent which he had discovered, and from which he was afterwards carried home in chains.  But the great thought--"find the east by going west"--has never died.  The Franklins, the Kanes, and the other navigators who have perished in the attempt to solve the problem, have kept the thought active.  It has been reserved for our day and this Republic to complete the great design of Columbus, by making a highway over a continent, turning the ship into a steam-car, and every day launching the true ship of the desert westward, every way larger, more costly, and freighted with more mind, than Cook's ship ever had, though she <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:sailed round the globe.  This car-ship starts from Boston, joins hands at New York, looks in at the half-way house at Omaha, and passes on.  And Benton in his vision saw all this, and on the heights of the Rocky Mountains, he seemed to see a Statue of Columbus, chiselled from the everlasting rock, with his face looking westward, and his arm outstretched, saying to every passing car, "There is the East! there is India!"  On these sublime heights the traveller sees a great, awful Rock, lofty and square, like a great fort.  Who knows but, coming in sight of that Rock, now called "Watch Rock," the eye of the traveller may yet moisten as he sees such a Statue of the Great Navigator, with a scroll in one hand and the other pointing towards the setting sun, and saying, "Eureka!  I have found my passage to the East!"</p><P>One of the immediate results, I have no doubt, of the successful termination of this great enterprise will be the construction of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:three more such roads--the Southern, from San Diego to Fulton, in Arkansas, and thus to New Orleans; the second, from St. Louis to San Francisco; and the Northern, from the northern lakes to Puget Sound, or to Oregon.  The country will never rest till all this is done.  In thinking of what has been done, you must bear in mind that this whole thing has been <HI REND="italics">against</HI>
184.sgm: nature.  It is easy to build railroads north and south, for so run the rivers and the valleys.  But go from Boston to Albany, east and west, and how is it?  We had to <HI REND="italics">cross</HI>
184.sgm: the continent, where mountains and deserts had risen up to the snow regions, as if forever to keep the two oceans apart.  Skill hath laid his iron hand on the mane of the everlasting mountains, and, grinding flinty rocks to powder beneath his heel, hath leaped over the barriers of nature.  Is it possible that the Prophet caught a glimpse of the iron horse, thousands of years ago, when he says, "The chariots shall be with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:flaming torches in the day of his preparation, and the fir trees shall be terribly shaken.  The chariots shall rage in the streets; they shall jostle one against another in the broad ways; they shall seem like torches; they shall run like the lightnings"?</p><P>There is another text also, quoted by the Rev. Dr. Dwinell, of Sacramento, in his most beautiful sermon on the completion of this railroad, most expressive of the thought I now wish to convey.  "Prepare ye the way of the Lord, make straight in the desert a highway for our God.  Every valley shall be exalted, and every mountain and hill shall be made low, and the crooked shall be made straight, and the rough places plain, and the glory of the Lord shall be revealed, and all flesh shall see it together, for the mouth of the Lord hath spoken it."<ANCHOR ID="N0249-01">*</ANCHOR>
184.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="N0249-01">I have not hesitated to use some of my brother's beautiful thoughts as they lie in my memory, having lost the sermon.  But the beauty, I fear, I have lost.  It is an exquisite specimen of occasional sermonizing.  I really do not know how much or little I am indebted to Dr. D.</NOTE>
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184.sgm:<P>Had a company of angels been sent to fling that great highway across the continent; had they put down the stakes where cities and villages should spring up, and be strung along like pearls on a dark string; had they been the Directors, and laid the plans to make it a highway for our God, --I cannot see that it would have evinced a higher end than that we now see.  Did it not seem like God's coming to take possession of it, when he so ordered it that a Minister of the Gospel should be on the ground to consecrate it to his glory, ere the last spike should be driven? that this minister should be in the first car that ever passed the continent, and preach the first sermon in the Golden State, on arriving there, of any one ever thus to arrive? that he should find at Sacramento nine Christian people, most of them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:missionaries from the Sandwich Islands, waiting to take the first cars that would come the other way?  When I look at the barrels, the boxes, and the passenger-cars on this road, I look at them with a Christian's faith, and see them as so many instrumentalities to carry out my Father's plans.  I see that by this pathway hearts that have been long separated, faces that are to be washed with tears of joy, homes that have been broken up, are again to meet and be reunited.  The cold iron is to be kept warm by the bounding hearts that are flying over it to meet kindred hearts.  It was the last link needed to belt the globe.  You leave New York by steam to Liverpool; by steam on land you spin through France; by steam you go from France, on the water, to Alexandria; from Alexandria, on rail, steam takes you to Suez; from Suez to China or Japan, on water, by steam; from China to San Francisco by steam; and now again the last link is supplied; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:over land by rail, to New York, about one sixth of the whole distance by this new channel.  Now the couriers of civilization can go round the earth in three months.  And this earth-born Daughter of Strength wends her way, as we should expect, among and through the highest, most civilized nations of the earth.  There is England, a hive of industry on a little earth-spot in the ocean, made brilliant by a galaxy of talent, planting her colonies all over the earth, aggressive, massive, the true successor of the Roman power.  There is France, with her artistic civilization, the creator and umpire of taste, the queen of fashion, and the wonder in the workmanship of what is beautiful.  There is Egypt, a land that ever has been, and ever will be, a puzzle.  There is China, with its immovable, half-civilization, abiding her time; and old India, waiting for the British people to do for her what she cannot do for herself; and here is the New World, working out for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:human race the great problem of human governments, individual freedom, the highest civilization, and the problem of human responsibilities, and aspirations, and achievements, --this New World, having been the last nation to take the torch of freedom directly from the hand of God, and in the best possible position, to hold it up in the presence of earth; and here is the Church of God, sublimated and set free from the materialism of past ages, and leaning on the breast of her Beloved as no church ever did before!  Why, it seems as if around this great "highway of nations," God had gathered the wealth, the population, the intelligence, the civilization, and the religion of the earth; and here are to run the shuttles that shall weave the garments of peace and good-will, which all nations shall soon put on.  Here, on this pathway, are to be found the elasticity of the temperate zone, the institutions of learning which are to be the school-house of the nations, and also <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:the pure Christianity which is to be the leaven that is to leaven the whole lump.  Whatever of education, learning, intelligence, virtue, progressive thought, human freedom, power to plan and power to do, which earth possesses, is on this line of quick communication.</p><P>And can you see nothing but freight and cars, and the smoke of the locomotive?  Humanity now revolves around this great axis created by man, and it is to be the centre for the re-construction of humanity.  It will be the highway of commerce and of learning, of brotherly kindness, of the messengers of peace, and of the Gospel of Christ.  It is not an evidence of decay, but of new life, --this mingling of blood; and when I see this great link supplied, letting in <HI REND="italics">our</HI>
184.sgm: east, and bringing the <HI REND="italics">old</HI>
184.sgm: east--China and the like--to be <HI REND="italics">their</HI>
184.sgm: west, I can see a future for the Atlantic slope, for the Inland mighty valley, and for the Pacific slope, such as I never saw before.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>California, cradled in excitement, and now giving promise of a rapid and great growth, must have been dwarfed, had she forever been isolated and shut away from the rest of us, and she must have degenerated.  Human beings must mingle with others, or they become inbred, and degenerate.  That downward tendency which seems to be a part of all that is human, is arrested by contact with what is vigorous and healthy.  Our gardens and flower-beds must have their seed changed.  And at this hour, and by the means of steam, God is pouring one nation into another, and mingling languages and tongues.  Over the snowy summits of the Nevadas we shall pour our people, creating new homes, and villages, and cities, like those we have here, --starting on a new race of improvement.  And this railroad makes our country one.  It can now never divide, creating a government off on the Pacific slope by itself; but all will unite in one grand effort to make our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:nation great at home, and a leader in the world's march after improvement.</p><P>Said William H. Seward, when that road shall have been extended to the Pacific Ocean, "disunion will be rendered forever afterwards impossible.  There will be no fulcrum for the lever of treason to rest upon."</p><P>There was a time when old Paganism stood trembling, on feeble limbs, and looking, with anxious eye, for something better; and then God lifted up the Star of Bethlehem, and the world advanced.  There was a time when the eye of science was dim, and the word of God, whose "entrance" everywhere "giveth life," was shut up and away; and then God gave the printing-press, and knowledge and truth were unbound, to walk together among men.  There was a time when the population of the earth needed more comforts, and better material things, and the opening of the coal mines, and the putting the spindles and the looms of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:factories in motion, created the supply needed.  Brain was worth more than mere muscle, for brain could turn wood and iron into muscle.</p><P>There are epochs in the world's history, and in the advancement of our race.  Our day is the day for making the earth smaller, by creating speed; and I see in it a Divine plan; and I hear His voice, saying, "Prepare ye the way of the Lord; make straight in the desert a highway for our God; and the glory of the Lord shall be revealed."  All the discoveries which men make, all the inventions which they bring out, all the facilities for intercourse which they create, be it rushing over a vast continent, bringing Commerce to move her burdens on the land instead of on the water; flashing thought along on the bed of the ocean, --all are taken up in God's plans, and made to reveal his glory.  It is taking the materialism of earth, and sanctifying it, and making it not merely harmonize with, but be the carrier of spiritual things.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>It may take a century, or three centuries, before men will understand the full import and power of the railroad; but this we do know--that a road which goes into the far west of the Pacific, does not stop there.  In ways that we do not know, it reaches into the spiritual world, and is the bearer of spiritual good to our race.  It already melts away our prejudices, and brings us into brotherhood with all the nations.  I may not be able, and I am not able, to point out all the bearings which this one new road will have on the kingdom of light and mercy; yet I feel just as sure that it will have mighty results upon that kingdom, as if I had seen the Divine hand swing this great enterprise over the mountains, and press it down there with his foot.</p><P>China is our neighbor now.  The East and the West embrace; nay, we hardly know which is East or which is West.  This one road has turned the world around.  Thus beneath all this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:labor, and toil, and skill, in the cry of Commerce for new working-ground, and in the rising up of myriads to find better homes, we see the Divine Mind urging it all on, and forward, for the good of that race, which His Son hath redeemed, by becoming one of them.</p><P>That great dome of heaven, which our Heavenly Father hath hung over all the earth, covers one great family, and their means of intercommunication are creating a warmer brotherhood, and thus causing us to feel that we are at home anywhere beneath that mighty dome.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>THE FUTURE OF THE PACIFIC SLOPE, AND THE CHINESE QUESTION.</p><P>ON the Pacific shores are three harbors, conveniently located to meet the wants of commerce--on the north, Puget Sound; on the south, San Diego; and in the centre, San Francisco Bay.  The latter is the queen of harbors, and has a great headway in advance of the others.  As you come into the bay, passing the Golden Gate, you are sailing directly east.  After passing east a few miles, you turn to the south, around the point of a peninsula.  On the end of that peninsula is San Francisco--a city built on and among the most dreary sand-hills.  Originally no spot could be more uninviting.  But in twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:years the high hills have been cut down and carted into the water, rocks blasted, sloughs filled up, till now you find a wondrous city, with nearly one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, with architecture which would honor any city; with nothing that looks young, green, or unfinished; and kept in order by its police, superior to any other city in the land.  You are amazed at seeing a city looking old, and ripe, and finished, having twelve daily papers, and many of them of mammoth size; having six miles of wharfage already built; having huge steamships, that run regularly, not only every day and hour through the harbor, but on the New York line, and on the lines for China, Japan, Sandwich Islands, and Oregon.  In this city capital has centred, and has been wisely and generously used to build public institutions, free schools, hospitals, asylums for the blind, for the deaf and dumb, for the orphans, and for all in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:distress.  San Francisco is, by her position, by her energy and wisdom, to be the Elect Lady of the coast, and nothing but earthquakes will interfere with her growth.  In the centre of mines which have but just begun to be developed, in the midst of a region unequalled in the world for agricultural productiveness, with unexplored mines of coal and of iron, with unmeasured forests of the finest timber ever found anywhere, with one continental railroad already built, and another--that to St. Louis--which will be built, she must become a great commercial and manufacturing city.</p><P>California can support twenty millions of people by her own resources, and the whole Pacific slope twice that number, at least.  One eighteenth of all the land in the State was given by Congress, to be devoted, as fast as sold, to public schools.  In addition to this, Congress gave her five hundred thousand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:acres of land, to be devoted to internal improvements; and the State has wisely decided that the inside of the human head is the place to begin improvements, and has set this also aside for schools and public education.  She also taxes all the property of her people for schools.  The free-school system of Massachusetts is adopted, and there is not a child in the State which may not be educated at public cost.  These schools are established as fast as population requires, and are already of a high order.  This free-school system is justly the pride of the State, and no new State can boast of better.  And as goes California, so will go all the Pacific slope.  There will be no better schools in the land than these will be.  Both California and Oregon have determined to have a College or University that shall be like a steam engine on the top of a hill, to draw up what is at the bottom of the hill.  In every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:neighborhood, it is already true, that the schoolmaster is abroad.  The churches, of course, must be in their infancy, but they are well organized, manned with an able, devoted, and talented ministry.  They have the right ring to them.<ANCHOR ID="N0264-01">*</ANCHOR>
184.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="N0264-01">Among these ministers I found Rev. Drs. Stone, Scudder, Eels, Wadsworth, Moar, Dwinell, Professors Durant, Willey, and many others like them--inferior, certainly, to no men in the land.  The other denominations are equally fortunate in their clergymen--all wide-awake men.</NOTE>
184.sgm:<P>The Sabbath is far better observed than I expected; and while six military companies march through the city, to fife and drum, every Sabbath, and strike the stranger very unpleasantly, yet they go out into the country to spend the day.  I am happy to say that they are Germans or Italians.  No company of Americans thus desecrates the day.</p><P>And as to Sabbath Schools, they are perfectly bewitching.  I have never seen so large a proportion of the population gathered into Sabbath Schools, nor finer schools.  Whatever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:these people take hold of, they do it with a heartiness that is truly refreshing.  I attended the State Convention of Sabbath Schools, and also the State Convention of the Young Men's Christian Association, and was most highly gratified and satisfied with the earnestness, the judiciousness, and the success, with which the working power of those churches is brought out.  There is no narrowness or bigotry of denomination apparent.  They work together in the common cause, and for the common Master.</p><P>I may say, too, that, probably owing to the climate, you find the finest set of children in that country that you ever saw--the fairest, fullest, and most perfect physical development.  I was struck with this, and feel assured that here will be developed a physical manhood, such as has nowhere yet been found.  It can hardly be otherwise, when every child can live out of doors more than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:half of every year, and will prefer to do so.  The question they ask is, not, to what denomination does a man belong, not what his attainments, but, "What can the fellow <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
184.sgm:?"  And this standard of <HI REND="italics">doing</HI>
184.sgm: something and much, with the climate and the thousand incentives to effort, will, in the future, I have no doubt, produce, not giants, but a noble race of men, if not superior to any now in the world.</p><P>On the great Eastern continent, west of the Yellow Sea, is a great plateau of the most fertile land, surrounded by mountains, watered by vast rivers, connected by a canal seven hundred miles long, teeming with multitudes of human beings, packed together, and hardly getting food enough to sustain life.  Nearly a third of earth's population are crowded together there.  The people are almost as ancient as the flood, and were probably there when Abraham was in Canaan.  Two strong men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:have tried to impress their own minds upon the people--Buddha, in India, who lived about six hundred years before Christ, and Confucius, in China, who lived about a century later.  You now understand me to be speaking of China and the Chinese.  The latter of these men gave laws and religion; but the laws were barbarous, and the religion had no stamp of divinity upon it, carried no divine sanctions with it, and only <HI REND="italics">set</HI>
184.sgm: human character, like mortar, without elevating or advancing it; the most it hoped to do, was to stand still.  So the generations have come and gone--now and then a vast revolution; but as President Hopkins, in his admirable sermon before the College Society, says, it was "the mountain-pressed giant simply turning over."  "There have been," he also says, "stability and order, but a stability without growth, and an order without progress."  Such is the amount of human life in China, that men take the place of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:beasts, and a dozen men will do the work of a single horse, for the wages which one horse ought to earn.  The result is, that this people, half starved from generation to generation, are dwarfed--not larger or heavier than our women.  Still the Chinaman is lithe, strong, active, enduring, quick to imitate, quick to learn, mild in disposition, taught to respect law and obey magistrates, kind to animals, industrious, willing, economical, and able to live on very little.  His religion is gloomy, and suicide is more common than with other races.  The overgrowth of population induces infanticide and a disregard to human life.  The Chinaman has very little self-respect, and is, of course, tricky, deceitful, and untruthful; but he is never malicious or revengeful.</p><P>I am speaking of the mass.  Among the educated and mercantile classes, there are fine specimens of integrity and all the commercial <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:virtues.  The following beautiful speech was made a few days ago, by a pure-blooded Chinese merchant, Choy-chew, at an entertainment in Chicago:--</p><P>"Eleven years ago I came from my home in China to seek my fortune in your great Republic.  I landed on the golden shore of California, utterly ignorant of your language, unknown to any of your people, a stranger to your customs and laws, and in the minds of some an intruder, one of that race whose presence is deemed a positive injury to the public prosperity.  But, gentlemen, I found both kindness and justice.  I found that, above the prejudice which had been formed against us, there flowed a deep, broad stream of popular equality; that the hand of friendship was extended to the people of every nation; and that even Chinamen must live, be happy, successful, and respected in `free America.'  I gathered knowledge in your public schools; I learned to speak <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:as you do, to read and write as you do, to act and think as you do; and, gentlemen, I rejoice that it is so; that I have been able to cross this vast continent without the aid of an interpreter; that here in the heart of the United States, I can speak to you in your own familiar speech, and tell you how much, how very much, I appreciate your hospitality, how grateful I feel for the privileges and advantages I have enjoyed in your glorious country, and how earnestly I hope that your example of enterprise, energy, vitality, and national generosity, may be seen and understood, as I see and understand it, by our government.  Mr. Burlingame has done much to promote good feeling in China towards the American nation.  He made himself well acquainted with the authorities at Pekin.  He won their confidence to a remarkable degree.  He is an excellent man, and, I believe, if his advice is received and acted upon, China will soon be the cordial friend of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:all the commercial powers of the earth.  Already we are doing something in the way of progress in modern improvements.  Steamboat lines have been established on our rivers, and the telegraph will soon connect us with the wonderful sovereignty of the Western Hemisphere, where the people rule, where everything proclaims peace and good-will to all.  China must brush away the dust of her antiquity, and, looking across the Pacific, behold and profit by the new lessons of the new world.  We trust our visit, gentlemen, may be productive of good results to all of us; that the two great countries, East and West, China and America, may be bound forever together in friendship, and that a Chinaman in America, or an American in China, may find like protection and like consideration in his search for happiness and wealth."</p><P>The Chinaman will often learn our alphabet, and even to put syllables together, at a single <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:lesson.  He is a good washer and cook, and will make a little go a great way for himself, or for his employer.  Such is the Chinaman, when I have added that he is an idolater, is superstitious, carries his temples and gods with him, lives upon rice and tea, and smokes opium with his tobacco when he can get it.</p><P>Though I went into their Joss-house, or Temple, yet, not being able to communicate with the old priest, I could not understand much of their worship.  There seemed to be two parts or rooms.  In the first were various hieroglyphics, in large gilt letters, and images, and abundance of little Joss-sticks, or candles, which are to be bought and burnt before the idol, to take away sin; the sins are removed as the stick burns.  I was told that these are very much sought after by dissolute women.</p><P>In the second room, was a kind of table or altar, on which lay two pieces of wood, flat on one side and rounded on the other, very much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:like a pea-pod split open.  These the priest takes up, the faces meeting, and drops them on the table.  If they fall and remain on the <HI REND="italics">round</HI>
184.sgm: side, you are to have good luck; if on the <HI REND="italics">flat</HI>
184.sgm: side, bad luck; and they fall so, nineteen times, at least, out of twenty.  You may now buy "good luck," by paying the priest a small sum of money.  Beyond that table, and behind a kind of screen, were three idols, bedizened by gilt, and each in a kind of niche or recess.  The left hand one was the god of medicine or health; the middle one, "the best woman that ever lived," i.e., the goddess of purity; and the third one, on the right, the god of gold, or riches.  There was a large handbell, used, it would seem, to wake up the god, before propitiating him, by burning sticks or gilded or silver paper before his little shrine.  There was no provision for social worship, or teaching of any kind.  All seemed planned to let the votary go directly to the god whose favor <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:he was most anxious to obtain.  It seemed to be the lowest kind of idolatry, the very gods being hideous in shape and countenance.</p><P>When the gold mines were discovered, their report went out into all the earth.  Thousands of Chinamen were soon scattered over California, digging gold.  When the railroad was to be built, they were on hand and ready to engage by thousands.  The more they are known, the more their labor is in demand; and now, there are at least one hundred thousand already on our shores, and within a year that number is to be doubled, and they will probably be numbered by millions in a very few years.  They could send out forty millions, equal to the population of our nation, and be benefited by the depletion.  They can all, without exception, read and write in their own language.</p><P>The great besetting sin of the Chinese, is their inordinate love of gambling.  Every evening, as you pass along a Chinese street, you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:will hear, here and there, a strange din, which you suppose is meant for music.  The doors and windows of every shop are wide open.  That shop where you hear music is a gambling shop.  As you enter, you notice, on the right hand and on the left, a high counter, nearly as high as the chin.  In the centre of the counter is a place marked out, four square, perhaps ten inches square.  The sides of this square are numbered one, two, three, and four.  You want to try your fortune.  You put down, say four bits, i.e., fifty cents, or silver half dollar.  That must be laid at the side numbered four.  A man sits by, having copper coin before him about as large as our old-fashioned cent piece.  He has quite a heap of them, each with a square hole in the middle of it.  With a little square stick, about as long as a goose-quill, he now counts these coins, carefully putting the end of the stick in the square hole.  If, when he has counted up to a certain number, --which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:he does with astonishing rapidity, --there be a remainder, --one, two, three, or four, --the man who put down the silver, gains so many bits, but loses his forfeit, --on some principle which I could not comprehend.  I could see, however, that the bank or saloon had decidedly the lion's share.  On both sides these gamblers stand.  At the end of the room, behind a partition, about a yard or four feet high, sit the musicians, who both play and sing.  But of all musical instruments ever invented, of all sounds ever put forth as music, of all contortions of faces ever made, you now see the superlative.  The music wails at times like a sick animal, or screeches like cats under your chamber-window, in a dark night.</p><P>Just in front of the half dozen musicians, who often relieve one another, is a table with a huge tea-pot on it, holding, perhaps, two gallons of most delicious tea, --free to all, --and which they quaff out of little shallow, china <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:bowls, without cream or sugar.  But whether they sing, or drink tea, or gamble, they smoke their long pipes, with tobacco medicated with opium.  The fumes fill the room; your head begins to swim, and to grow dizzy; your stomach grows nauseated, and you are glad to get out into the open air, satisfied that most who gather there, will spend all their day's earnings before they leave the hideous place.</p><P>Thus far they feel that they are strangers, and intend and expect to go back to their country.  All their dead are carried back for burial.  Over twelve hundred bodies, as is estimated, are now annually carried back to China, at a cost of one hundred dollars each, in gold.  The State of California has a law that every man who works in the mines shall pay a tax of four dollars a month, unless he is a citizen, or declares his intention to become one; but no Chinaman has, so far, ever signified his purpose or wish to become a citizen, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:there are thousands engaged in gold-digging.</p><P>And where and what is to be the end of this thing?  Our Irish friends in California have risen up against the Chinese, and abused them, and declared they shall not come to our shores.  They might as well go down to the Golden Gate, and say that the tide shall not come in, with the Pacific Ocean behind it.  They can no more be stopped than water can be prevented from running down hill.  Intercommunication is such, that labor will go where it is best paid.  Nothing can keep back the myriads of starving people in China.  And besides, the thing that we now want, --the great material want of the country, --is cheap labor.  And whoever will furnish that, will find enough to employ him.  A few years ago, and the employees in the factories at Lowell were all American girls.  They determined, and the owners determined, that none but American help <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:should be employed.  But now, there is not over one American girl, we are told, to a thousand Irish.  That is all right, and is in accordance with unalterable laws.</p><P>Now, as to our Irish friends saying "the Chinese shall not come," I should like to talk with an honest, warm-hearted Irishman on this point.  I would say, "Now, look here, friend; I know, and you know, that all that the Irishman is to-day, is what our country has made him.  He came here poor, scorned, and oppressed.  We have lifted him up to be a citizen, --to be on an equality with ourselves.  He owns farms, has millions of money in the Savings Banks, has a good home, and his children are educated at the public expense; and now, for <HI REND="italics">him</HI>
184.sgm: to rise and say that any other poor, oppressed people shall not come here and receive the same blessings, is a meanness so despicable, that no Irishman ought ever to be guilty of it.  He ought to blush to name the thing."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>But what is to be the result of this influx of Chinamen?  No mortal can say.  The first effect will be to expedite the building of railroads and developing the resources of our country.  Already all the railroads west of Chicago are negotiating at what price they will transport them, and have fixed upon a cent and a half a mile.  Another effect, immediate, will be to stop the strikes among workmen--a curse to themselves and a curse to the community.  In the factories of San Fracisco they had none but Irish, paying them three dollars a day in gold.  They struck, and demanded four dollars.  Immediately their places, numbering three hundred, were supplied by Chinamen at one dollar a day--and superior workmen they are.  So it will be all over the country; for all over the country they will come, and be welcomed.  Well, you will ask, won't this be a great injury to our Celtic and Teutonic workmen now among us?  I answer, no: I believe it will be a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:great blessing to every mother's son of them.  And how do I make that out?  I will tell you.  It will show them that the sooner they cease to be Irishmen or Germans, and become Americans, the better.  It will put them to educating their children.  It will scatter them on our farms, and on farms of their own.  It will be a power under them to lift them up.  It will be a power behind, to push them forward.  They will see that they must rise or sink.  They must gain intelligence and skill enough to employ this new power, or they must work for it.  The question cannot be settled by the shillaleh or the fist, the dirk or the pistol, but by intelligence and manly character.  And if any one doubts which race wins, he does not look at it as I do.  What will be the effect on the negro?  Good, I have no doubt.  It will make him feel the necessity of working, not by fits and starts, but continuously, and of being economical and frugal.  Placed side by side, the Chinese will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:be the educator, and the negro will rise.  But what, say you, will be the result on the government of this country--creating here a conglomerate mass, such as our form of government never contemplated?  Will not these Foreigners at some day, perhaps not distant, be able to take this nation into their own hands, and become its Rulers?  I reply, <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
184.sgm:, and that because there are some things that will prevent it, deeper than numbers or votes.  There are certain organic laws that override all human plans and notions, and to these I want now briefly to allude.  Will you follow me?</p><P>The great colonizers of the earth are the Anglo-Saxons.  They scatter and plant themselves in any climate, create a government, and retain their ground.  This implies character--to plan, perseverance to carry out the plans, and the power of governing.  East, West, in India, or in America, the results are the same.  And when the question is, will this race retain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:its supremacy in this land, the answer must be found in the peculiar character of this race--the Anglo-Saxon.</p><P>We are far less imaginative than the races around us, and, of consequence, far less impulsive.  That fiery eloquence which is found in the Welsh and in the Irish, and those picture-words which make the Scotch language so fascinating, we know nothing about.  Even the tragedies of Shakespeare are calm, sober, strong utterances in pure English, compared with the every-day language of the Highlander.  The Celtic people love to follow leaders in politics, priests in religion, and to be superstitious, while we want to be self-reliant, self-asserting, and have individuality, in every possible way.  The French are mercurial.  They are more lively, more impulsively eloquent, more easily excited to enthusiasm, and more successful in matters of taste.  Educate the French mind thoroughly, and it becomes a wonder in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:metaphysics, mighty in abstract speculations, but wholly <HI REND="italics">unpractical</HI>
184.sgm:.  The Anglo-Saxon says, "Bring on your theories; but <HI REND="italics">cui bono</HI>
184.sgm: --what's the use?"  Then he calmly thinks and balances matters, and lets the judgment come in, cool and sober.  He puts his imagination in abeyance.  He has his eye intently fixed on what is practical.  Others may have more dash, but he has pluck.  In the battle of Waterloo, the Anglo-Saxon stood in solid, immovable columns, and let the French dash on him with the finest cavalry the world ever saw.  The cavalry of Wellington were drawn up where they could overlook the whole battle-field, and were commanded to--do nothing but wait!  There they <HI REND="italics">did</HI>
184.sgm: wait, cool, collected, calmly abiding their time.  The very horses seemed to feel the occasion, and hardly champed the bit.  There they waited for eight long hours, when the word "charge" came; and charge they did, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:scattered their foes like chaff.  No other race would have done so.  "I abide my time" is the motto of the race--persevering, and ever guided by "common sense."  You will notice, too, that it is the Latin races who have, as a whole, stuck to Popery--a system that gratifies the imagination, gratifies the taste, and abounds in superstitions, as much certainly as they can swallow, let their capacity be what it may.  Against all this, our race early rebelled.  Long before Luther was born, our own glorious Wickliffe, the Father of our Reformation, thundered in his own country from the pulpit, and gave his wonderful translation of the New Testament to the world, as the strong pillar against which men might lean.</p><P>We complain that our Congress and our Legislatures meet and spend their time in speech-making.  Why, they can't help it!  It is a part of the very nature of the Saxon race, to get together, to discuss and plan, and act <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:together.  You may trace it back to our early ancestry.  Trial by jury grew out of this, and so did Parliaments.  This leads us to discuss, to respect one another's opinions, whether we are in the Senate Chamber, in the town meeting, or in the little school district meeting.  It leads us not only to plan, but to act together for a common object, which is for the good of all.  We may add to this, it causes us to reverence and obey the laws which we ourselves have enacted, and which have proceeded from ourselves.  To respect our own laws, becomes self-respect.  There is a great amount of dormant will in the Saxon, and sooner or later, he makes it felt.  The little boy who requested the teamster to stop, that he might ride, and, on being refused, threw himself coolly down on the track where the wheel must go over and crush him, if it did not stop, --was a true Saxon.</p><P>Now it seems to me that these umistakable, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:natural endowments fit our race remarkably for colonizing the earth, for enlargement, and for governing.  The one involves the other.  While other races are often convulsed, --(see the twenty-two revolutions in China without a particle of progress, the violent and bloody revolutions in France, Spain, Italy, and South America, --you see that while they are unable to hope for any change for the better, except by wading in blood), --our race effects the greatest changes, amounting to a revolution in results, by means entirely peaceful.  The recent disinthralment of the church-establishment in Ireland, is an example of what I mean.  In all other races, when such changes are made, you expect riot, bloodshed, and anarchy, more or less.  I have said, that we are the great colonizers of the earth.  The French, the Spaniards, the Italians, the Irish, have never established great colonies, and managed and governed them; they are not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:the races to do it.  No other race would have gone to California, and to Oregon, and there created their own government so peacefully, and there waited in patience till the nation was ready to cast the folds of its flag over them, and still wait and work, till their railroad brought them to us.</p><P>The Englishman asks, "What would the Irish be in the United States as rulers?  What would they be without the Anglo-Saxon?  They are useful elements of society, but alone they would cut a sorry figure.  If Ireland could be towed off into the middle of the Atlantic, and its northern parts emptied of its population back into Scotland, and left to manage its own affairs at its own cost, we should have a sorry specimen of what such a people would do in the way of government."  It is not necessary for me to indorse or refute these sentiments; they are the words of a great and a good man.  You can judge <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:of their correctness, and of the allowance, if any, to be made, for the English feeling.  But this I may say, that it does not seem very likely to me that the Anglo-Saxon race, having founded and created this government, and having the original traits of character which they have, will ever yield this government to any other race.  I plant myself there.  Add to this, that God hath given us a language that seems fitted to become almost universal.  Men won't ride in an ox-cart when they can go in the stage, nor in the stage when they can go in the cars, nor in a scow when they can go in a steamboat.  It is found that there is no language in the world, so terse and so condensed as the English.  It is becoming the language of the ocean telegraph all through Europe, and probably will be through the earth.  They won't write messages in any language but the best.  And what is best for the telegraph, will be the best medium by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:which to convey all thought; the world cannot use any instrument but the quickest, and thus the simple wires on the poles, stretching round the world, may change the language of a world, and bring one race to be uppermost.  Or, if you say they use the English language because the English Operator is so superior to any other, then the argument accumulates for the superiority of the race in handling the world.</p><P>God, in his providence, reserved the great western slope of this continent, looking off on the Pacific, till the Atlantic States had become settled, their soil much exhausted, their institutions planted and tried, their population flowing out, and carrying their habits, and schools, and churches, into the great Interior Valley, and made that great basin safe; and then he suddenly swept off the imbecile races that roamed over that slope, and annexed it to our inheritance.  It was a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:new world, having a new climate, a new soil, new and unfailing mines, forests that over whelmed the spectator with awe, fertility scarcely equalled in the annals of the world, and peopled with the most energetic men that could be culled from the civilized world, our own people vastly preponderating.</p><P>And what are the plans of Infinite Wisdom in all this?  I believe, to give us an opportunity to work out a higher civilization, more and better means of educational development, a nobler exposition of human capabilities, and a loftier type of spiritual Christianity.  I believe that vast slope, so rich in mineral, agricultural, and manufacturing wealth, so little that is wasteful in climate, is put into the hands of men who will never do what is mean, never settle down into sloth, never refuse to meet responsibilities, and never be satisfied with a meagre development.  I believe, too, that God has pity for other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:portions of his great family, and is bringing here, by thousands, and most likely by millions, that race who must be, from their past, life-long minors, intrusted to our care, making us responsible for their receiving kind treatment, careful training, and, above all, the Gospel of His mercy.  What shall we do with the Chinese? is said to be the great problem of this generation.  I answer, it is a problem we cannot solve, nor are we called to do it.  God is sending them here, and we cannot stop the stream.  Their industry will add immensely and rapidly to our wealth; they will have their idol temples through California, in New York, most likely in Boston, and very likely in our villages; that we cannot help.  If they are to let us, by treaty, build churches and enjoy our religion in China, we must allow them to enjoy their idolatry here.  And no one can certainly say that this new element will not change the centre of power in the world.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>But won't the Chinese be abused, outraged, and almost reduced to slavery here?  I answer, no.  We have Associations to protect the dumb beast from cruelty, and, if necessary, we shall organize similar associations to protect the Chinaman.  Cruelty and barbarism will not be tolerated at this day; the press will make the groans of the distressed ring through the land.</p><P>You will see, now, why I look upon the Pacific slope as so important.  Our gold is there!  Our silver is there!  Commerce is making herself a great place there!  Noble men and beautiful children are there!  Multitudes are gathering there!  Free schools are there!  Colleges are being planted there!  And a great future <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
184.sgm: be there!</p><P>I stand on the heights of the Nevadas, and I look off over mountain and valley, till I see the blue waters of the Pacific, and I see centuries crowding into single years, and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:see showers of mercy, which have hung up in the dry air, descending upon that wonderful region.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Tyrants! in vain ye trace the wizard ring,<LB>In vain ye limit mind's unwearied spring.<LB>What! can ye lull the winge&acute;d winds asleep,<LB>Arrest the rolling world, or chain the deep?<LB>No! the wild wave contemns your sceptred hand;<LB>It rolled not back when Canute gave command."</HI>
184.sgm:</p><P>From the place where the sun rises, have our race been travelling, towards where the sun sets, to the present time.  Every generation has seen <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Westward the star of empire take its way,"</HI>
184.sgm:</p><P>till that star can no longer guide the poor wanderers farther.  In that long march of ages, what cities and nations have halted long enough to grow, and mature, and die! what graves have belted the earth!  But the West is found, and the Star pauses.  Seventy-five years ago, probably before any one of my readers was born, 1794, there lived a clergyman in one of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:the smallest parishes in Connecticut.  While in this position he wrote a poem.  He was afterwards known as Timothy Dwight, President of Yale College. It would seem as if he must almost have been a prophet, and seen what we see, when he penned the following lines:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"All hail, thou western world! by Heaven designed<LB>Th' example bright, to renovate mankind.<LB>Soon shall thy sons across the main land roam,<LB>And claim on far Pacific's shore their home;<LB>Their rule, religion, manners, arts, convey,<LB>And spread their freedom to the Asian sea.<LB>Where erst six thousand suns have rolled the year<LB>O'er plains of slaughter, and o'er wilds of fear,<LB>Towns, cities, fanes, shall lift their towery pride;<LB>The village bloom on every streamlet's side;<LB>Proud Commerce' mole the western surges lave;<LB>The long, white spire lie imaged on the wave;<LB>O'er morn's pellucid main expand their sails,<LB>And the starred ensign court the Korean gales.<LB>Then nobler thoughts shall savage trains inform,<LB>Then barbarous passions cease the heart to storm:<LB>No more the captive circling flames devour;<LB>Through the war path the Indian creep no more;<LB>No midnight scout the slumbering village fire,<LB>Nor the scalped infant stain his gasping sire;<LB>But peace and truth illume the twilight mind,<LB>The Gospel's sunshine, and the purpose kind.</HI>
184.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">Where marshes teemed with death shall meads unfold;<LB>Untrodden cliffs resign their stores of gold;<LB>The dance refined on Albion's margin move,<LB>And her lone bowers rehearse the tale of love.<LB>Where slept perennial night, shall Science rise,<LB>And new-born Oxfords cheer the evening skies;<LB>Miltonic strains the Mexic hills prolong,<LB>And Louis murmur to Sicilian song.<LB>Then to new climes the bliss shall trace its way,<LB>And Tartar deserts hail the rising day;<LB>From the long torpor startled China wake,<LB>Her chains of misery roused Peruvia break;<LB>Man link to man, with bosom bosom twine,<LB>And one great bond the house of Adam join;<LB>The sacred promise full completion know,<LB>And peace and piety the world o'erflow."<LB></HI>
184.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="N0296-01">*</ANCHOR>
184.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="N0296-01"><P>EXPLANATORY NOTES BY THE AUTHOR.</p><P>Asian Sea.  "Pacific Ocean."</p><P>Korean.  "Korea is a large peninsula on the eastern shore of Asia."</p><P>Albion.  "New Albion; a very desirable country, on the western shore  of America, discovered by Sir Francis Drake."  (See p. 4.)</p><P>Mexic hills.  "A range of mountains [evidently the Rocky], running from north to south, at the distance of several hundred miles westward of the Mississippi."</p><P>Louis.  "The Mississippi."</p><P>Sicilian song.  "Pastoral poetry."</p></NOTE>
184.sgm:<P>There have been attempts made to keep our foreign population separate, --to have schools in German, and churches in German; and in the great settlements of Pennsylvania this has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:been done; but the railroads that have been pushed through that State, are letting in the English language, and in a very few years nothing but English will be spoken.  It is inevitable.</p><P>Our nation is a universal solvent.  Put the children of a dozen nations into our free school, and they will all come out Americans.  And when I see the Germans in Hartford and New York setting up and demanding German schools, it does not worry me in the least, for I know it cannot come to anything.  Those who enjoy our privileges and breathe our air, <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
184.sgm: become Americanized.  They cannot help it; and that for a strong reason, viz., that <HI REND="italics">the American character impresses itself upon whatever it touches</HI>
184.sgm:.  It is strong, intelligent, active, direct, practical, and is everywhere a power.  I assert that it is <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
184.sgm: boasting, but a simple truth, to say, there is no character on earth so certain to impress itself on the world, as the American.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>Thrown into a war, in 1860, with a population of only thirty-one millions, with no Army and no Navy, the free States, in four years, put one and a half million of armed men in the field, fought two hundred and twenty-five battles, raised the navy up to six hundred and eighty-four vessels and fifty-one thousand men; invented the Monitor, that nondescript power; laid the nation under a terrible debt, and came out of the war victorious, richer in men and in property than when we began; and to-day are a power in the earth, at least fifty fold greater than ever before.</p><P>Despotism has learned that there is no people so powerful as a free, intelligent people, who make their own laws, create their own institutions, and, if necessary, fight for them.  Mind you, eighty per cent. of all who were in our armies were native-born Americans.  At this hour, England congratulates herself that she is emancipating her Catholic Ireland noiselessly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and without blood.  I may safely ask if she ever could or would have done it, had there not gone over the water an influence from this country, which she is quick to feel and slow to acknowledge?  Even Napoleon, at this hour, feels the air of this free country, and is trying to loosen the ropes by which he has held the elephant, which he is afraid to hold and afraid to let go.  Other nations do and must cut one and another rope, and let the ship of State swing and ride easier, or she will blow up.</p><P>The Chinese must and will learn our language, gradually adopt our dress and customs, and when he reads our Bible, and learns our religion, in laying aside his own language it will be comparatively easy to drop his idolatry, and become a Christian believer.  In two Sabbath Schools, I have seen, on an average, a hundred Chinamen in each, delighted to learn to read in English, and having the Bible for their reading-book.  The force, the cool energy, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:the persistent power of the American character, is something which makes a deep impression upon weaker races.</p><P>If, then, I am told, as I am almost every day, that this conglomerate mass, made up of Anglo-Saxons, Europeans, Africans, Chinamen, and a sprinkling of all nations, is hereafter to cement into a sort of pudding-stone race, I reply, it may be so, but I do not believe it.  God has given this continent to the strongest race on earth, and to the freest and best educated part of that race, and I do not believe he is going to let it drop out of hands that can handle the globe, and put it into hands that are hands without educated brains.</p><P>It is putting our government, and our civilization, and our Educational Institutions, and our Protestant religion, to a test more severe than was ever put upon a people.  England, the old hive, is full, and there can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:be no such influx of foreign elements there; but here they come, and will come--to be scattered over a vast territory, to be instructed in human rights, and human responsibilities, and, be the risk great or small, hanging over us like an avalanche, threatening to fall on us and grind us to powder, or hanging over us like a cloud, to be disolved in fruitful showers to gladden every part of the land, --be it the chest into which the giant is to be pressed, and the lid shut down, and the chest thrown into the sea, or be it the treasure-box, out of which uncounted blessings will flow, --we must accept it, and feel, that for wise and good purposes, God has opened the door of hope to other portions of his family, and is sending them here to share our inheritance, and to be enlightened and blessed by our sympathy and kindness.</p><P>You now see why I have attached so much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:importance to the slope west of the Rocky Mountains.  <HI REND="italics">On that slope hangs the future of this country</HI>
184.sgm:!  Heretofore we have said that the Great Valley of the Mississippi is to contain the numerical population of the country, and guide its destiny; and so it would, had it not been that the whole thing is altered by settling California, and bringing the ocean Isles, and China, and Japan, and all the East to our very door, and had it not been that the swarming, teeming population of those countries have found out that here is food, and here labor is needed, and will be rewarded, and hence they are to flow in, like the waves of the Pacific, unceasingly, till the demands for labor are satisfied; this is inevitable.  I have seen single steamers come into San Francisco, with from twelve hundred to fourteen hundred Chinamen on board, --once a fortnight each; and hereafter there must arrive two such ship-loads weekly, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:to meet the engagements already made.  Thus the Golden Gate has become the gate-way of a living stream of humanity, in the form of a half-civilized heathenism.  We have now to learn--God is forcing it upon us--that they, as well as we, are a part of God's family, and must be cared for accordingly.  They may seem like the two barley loaves that tumbled into the camp of the Midianites; they may be for our food or for our ruin.  And who, at this hour, tries to cast the horoscope of his country, without taking this new element into the account, will make a terrible mistake.</p><P>And here comes in a thought that I deem of great importance, and that is, <HI REND="italics">the destiny of the human race is every day becoming more and more closely linked together</HI>
184.sgm:.  A few days since, and we talked of the Sandwich Islands as a far-off people; now they are our next-door neighbors, and we hardly know whether to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:think of them as Americans or as Foreigners.  The eighty thousand English and Americans in Paris cannot be forgotten in the plans and measures of the French Government.</p><P>Oceans and mountains were made to keep nations apart, so long as the world knew no power but the brute power of war; but since the Prince of Peace hath created such facilities for travel, that, practically, there "is no more sea," and the everlasting mountains have bowed before his chariot, and the nations are poured into each other as water, the whole human family are to work out the same destiny and have a like inheritance.  Everything points that way.  Everything works that way.  I look upon the generation now living, and soon to live, as called upon to decide questions wide as the earth, and to solve problems that will affect the whole human family.  Whether we will, or no, we are linked in with all the rest, and we cannot rise without lifting them up with us.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:means something to live now--far more than ever before.</p><P>I must add, too, that the world is rushing on its own destiny with a rapidity never before known.  The earth is becoming smaller, and time is becoming longer.  A month now is a year, compared with a century ago.  The man who builds his hopes for the elevation of his race on science, sees science advancing as never before.  The man who looks to politics and human governments to create a millennium on earth, sees the principles of human rights steadily marching on, and threatening shortly to tread tyranny under foot.  The man who looks to education to renovate the world, sees free schools everywhere spreading, and Colleges endowed most richly, and springing up like mushrooms.  And the man who looks to the Bible and the Church of God to usher in the day of "good will to men," and the day of God's glory, sees that everything there is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:advancing; that three fourths of the population of this country are under the dominant influence of the chief Protestant churches; that the largest increase of Christianity in the world, during the present century, has been in the United States; that every church reaches a population about four times as large as its membership; that the increase of our church members, notwithstanding the great influx of foreign and Papal population, has greatly outrun the increase of the people; that in 1800, with a population of about five million, the church members were three hundred and fifty thousand; while in 1860, with a population of thirty-one million four hundred and forty thousand, we had over five million church members, i. e., the ratio of professed Christians to the population was one to fifteen in 1800, while in 1860 it was one to six.  We may add, the vast preponderance of talent, skill, enterprise, wealth, and manhood of the nation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:is under the direct influence of the Gospel of Christ.</p><P>The church Edifices in this country in 1860 amounted to fifty-four thousand, at a value of one hundred and seventy-one million dollars, and the number had increased fifty per cent. in the ten years preceding that.  The edifices averaged, for the Methodist, two thousand dollars each church; the Baptists, one thousand seven hundred dollars each; the Presbyterians and Congregationalists, five thousand five hundred dollars each; and the Roman Catholics, three thousand seven hundred and ninety-five dollars.  Between 1860 and 1866, the contributions of the Protestants in this country, for benevolence, were two million two hundred and fifty thousand dollars annually; in 1866, over five million dollars; and the sums given to Colleges and schools of a high grade, have been over a million a year for the last eight years.  And all this relying on the voluntary principle, amid the burdens of a great war.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:<P>Now then, kind Reader, if I fail to make the right impression on you during the few minutes that remain before I close, I have lost the great object of these pages.</p><P>I believe this nation has a mighty destiny before it; that the tide of time rushes as never before; that our dangers and our responsibilities are inconceivably great; that the Gospel, in its power and purity, going to the heart and guiding the conscience, and controlling the passions, and bringing out the man to individual responsibility to God, is the great power on which we are to rely.  The Church of God is called upon for money, for labor, for thought, for faith, and for love.  We ought to see that every child in the land is in the Sabbath School; --one school in every neighborhood; that the Home Missionary is all over the land, treading every mountain, visiting every glen, on the banks of every river, preaching Christ, planting churches, and lifting up humanity.  We ought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:to see that there are free schools everywhere, as free as the air we breathe, and Colleges to educate and prepare the mind to act in clear light, with expanded views, and with noble ends.  We must cast up and "prepare a highway for our God," and then occupy that highway.</p><P>You will say, perhaps, that all this is calling for money, money, to flow like water!  Truly it is!  Truly it is!  But can you travel fast, on land or on water, without spending money?  Can you live at this day without spending money?  Would you go back to the days of the spinning wheel, and saddle and pillion, because you could live cheap?  Why, there is not a man among us, who may not be, and if true to himself, will not be, older at fifty, than Methuselah was at nine hundred and fifty years.  You tell me I lived fast during my journey to California; truly I did.  I travelled fast, saw fast, made friends fast, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:and lived longer in two months than during any other period of two years of my life.  We are all living at the same rate.  It would once have cost me five years to obtain the information contained in these pages.  The Church is living centuries in a generation, and what matters it, if she is called upon to give her labors and money in proportion?</p><P>I want my generation, and I want the generation coming after me, to rise up in views, and in heart, in proportion to their opportunities and responsibilities.  To be a Christian in this country now, is to be lifted up to fly with the angel that hath the everlasting Gospel to preach to every creature.  I had rather live with my generation now, than to live the life of Methuselah.</p><P>O my country! the names of thy great sons will hang over thee like so many bright stars; the great spirit of our fathers lives, and will live, and the Sun of Righteousness himself is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:rising on thee with warmer and warmer beams.  God's great plans move on, and the roar of the ocean, and the stern silence of the flinty mountain, are waiting at His feet.  Those plans, like the century plant, are now unfolding, in their beauty and in their richness.  We have bled for thee, O my country, and we will now pray and labor for thee, and we will raise up sons and daughters worthy of our fathers, and worthy the inheritance which they have left us.  Over all the land their spirit lives!  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The Pilgrim <HI REND="italics">spirit</HI>
184.sgm: has not fled;<LB>It walks in noon's bright light,<LB>And it watches the bed<LB>Of our glorious dead,<LB>With the holy stars by night!<LB>And it watches the bed<LB>Of the brave who have bled,<LB>And shall guard this wide-spread shore,<LB>Till the waves of the bay<LB>Where the Mayflower lay,<LB>Shall foam and freeze no more!"</HI>
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184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.<LB>THE visitor in California should not fail of going to the following places:--</HEAD>
184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>1.  ALMADAN MINES.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>     These are the Quicksilver Mines, about seventy or seventy-five miles from San Francisco.  You can go in the morning on the San Jose&acute; Railroad; but it is better to leave in the afternoon, go to San Jose&acute;, and stay over the night, enjoying the beautiful Santa Clara Valley, through which you pass.  Early in the morning take a carriage, and go to the mines, twelve miles, and spend the day there, getting back to San Jose&acute; in the evening.  Go up to and into the mines, and see the whole.</p></DIV><DIV><HEAD>2.  VERA CRUZ.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>Stop at Santa Clara, and take the stage over the mountains--a wild and beautiful ride; and the old city is so Spanish, that it will pay well for the visit.  Observe the Redwood tree, the Madrona, and the beautiful landscape view from the mountain.  You can, if you choose, return in a steamer; but I would not, unless it is very hot and dusty.  The steamers are too small.</p></DIV>
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184.sgm:<HEAD>3.  THE GEYSERS.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>Take the afternoon boat to Vallejo, and then the cars up through the exquisite Napa Valley--beautiful beyond description.  Stop, and spend the night at Calistoga.  Make all your arrangements to leave in a carriage (open wagon), at five o'clock, next morning.  Ride twenty miles to Foss's to breakfast; and <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
184.sgm: an appetite, and <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>4.  YO-SEMITE VALLEY.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>Leave the city at four o'clock, P.M., for Stockton--a beautiful sail, as long as you are on deck.  Arrive at Stockton at six o'clock next morning.  From Stockton there are two routes to the Valley.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:As I wanted to see the Calaveras big trees, I took the left route--the shortest and cheapest, when I was there.  Now stage--a miserable old wreck of a wagon--to Copperopolis to dinner, and thence to "Murphy's Camp" to lodge--a hard day's ride of sixty-five miles.  Go to Sperry's, where your accommodations are good, and your stay made pleasant.  You are now among the foot-hills, and the mines, both placer mines and quartz, and can examine either or both.  Next morning take stage over the mountain, fifteen miles, to the Big-Tree Grove--a very romantic ride.  At the grove you will find Mr. Perry's hotel--of the same comfortable stamp as Sperry's.  Take your time here.  The trees will have to grow much before you will realize their greatness and grandeur.</p><P>Leave in the morning, and return to "Murphy's Camp," dine, and in stage; press on over the wild Stanislaus River and fearful mountain gorges, passing Columbia and the amazing relics of the miners, lodge at Sonora.  In the morning, on through the "Chinese Camp," over the mountain and the Tuolumne River, through Garotta, to Harding's Ranch.  Stop over night.  Now get the best horse you can, and, with a guide, set out with good courage for an awfully hard day's ride in the saddle.  Through parks of Nature's planting, over mountains, and through deep banks of snow (supposing it to be about the first of June, which is the best time), you at last come to the spot where you stop on the trail, and look down into the chasm below, three <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:thousand feet.  Such a vision you never had before!  Go down the mountain--getting off to walk is best--two and a half miles; and descending three thousand feet, brings you into the Valley.  Don't be discouraged now, but make your way, some miles yet, to the very centre of the Valley, and go directly to Hutchings'; put yourself under his care and direction; let him furnish you guides and horses, and mark out each day's work for you.  <HI REND="italics">Don't hurry, now</HI>
184.sgm:.  His charges are reasonable; and if you are not satisfied with the treatment at his house, and what you see in the Valley, you must be hard to please.  Visit all the falls and Mirror Lake, and climb the mountains, if you have strength.  Get the geography of every fall, and peak, and pinnacle well fixed in your mind.  Stop days here, and don't hurry any part of your visit.  You are receiving impressions that are to be a life-long source of joy.  In returning, you will not go out of the way to the Calaveras Grove, but from the Chinese Camp direct to Stockton.  You can get a ticket for the whole route, via the Grove, at Stockton; and this is the best way.  You can examine the Chinese at their camp, where you will stop over night in coming out.</p><P>The journey to and from the Yo-Semite is a hard one; but, <HI REND="italics">as you value your peace of mind the rest of your life, don't fail to make it</HI>
184.sgm:.  You will need <HI REND="italics">not less</HI>
184.sgm: than a fortnight to make the tour, and may reckon the expense at one hundred and twenty dollars in gold.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:</p><P>When you get back to San Francisco, and get rested, make directly for " <HI REND="italics">Watkins's Gallery</HI>
184.sgm:," and see his magnificent Views, large, and most beautifully executed, of the Valley.  The climate in California makes the best photographs in the world.  These, of the Yo-Semite Valley, excel anything I ever saw.  There are about fifty of them, and I urge you to buy just as many of them as your purse will possibly allow, and then sigh that you cannot buy them all.  You will bring home nothing from California so beautiful as these large Photographs.  Mr. Watkins spent years to take the Views, and to admiration has he succeeded.</p><P>Next I advise you to go to " <HI REND="italics">Mr. Houseworth's</HI>
184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>5.  THE GOLD AND SILVER MINES.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>Visit these, --the Gold, in Grass Valley, near Nevada City, asking advice and direction of Edwin F. Bean, Esq.; the Silver Mines, at Virginia City, or White Pines.  If you stop at Nevada City, get "Bean's History" of the County.  You will want it when you get home.</p></DIV>
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184.sgm:<HEAD>6.  THE SEAL LIONS.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>These are about seven miles from San Francisco, over a beautiful road.  Stop at the Cliff House, and watch the lazy, quarrelsome, uncouth monsters at your leisure.</p></DIV>
184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>7.  DOWN THE COAST.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>You should take the steamer, and go down to Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, &amp;c., and get a correct idea and picture of Lower California.  It will take a week or more.</p></DIV>
184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>8.  THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>When at San Francisco, you are only fourteen days from the Sandwich Islands by steamer; and if you can go, you will enjoy a trip there exceedingly; where you will find two races mingling, an old religion and system of things vanishing away, and a new one taking their place; and where scenery unsurpassed, and in some respects, never equalled, will abundantly compensate you for the voyage.</p></DIV>
184.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>9.  HUNTING AND FISHING.</HEAD>
184.sgm:<P>I have been asked repeatedly about these; and I can only say, that the grizzly Bear is retiring, and seldom shows himself now; that the Elk has forsaken the valleys, and gone north; that the Buffalo seems never to have crossed the mountains; that the Deer are still plenty in the mountains, and in the little wild mountain valleys; that the Antelope is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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184.sgm:found only on this side of the Nevadas, as also the Sage-hen (a species of the grouse); that the Mountain-quail, the Mourning-dove, and the large Hare meet you everywhere; that in the mountain streams Trout are very abundant, but the meat is white, soft, and very inferior to the trout on the Atlantic coast; that Foxes and Lynxes are very plenty in some parts; and that, on the whole, it is a region abounding in wild game.</p><P>You will hear the old pioneers describe their encounters with Indians, robbers, and grizzly bears, in days gone by, with a warm eulogium upon the Winchester or Improved Henry Rifle.  Indeed, they place it above all other weapons of defence; and, rather than be without his "Winchester," the pioneer would deny himself anything.  The accounts of the power and safety procured by this arm make you cease to wonder at the universal admiration expressed in its favor.</p><P>This Rifle, as now perfected, is, as all who have used it think, the very best gun in this country, and probably unsurpassed by any yet made.</p><P>In crossing the continent--a long and weary journey--don't fail, by letter or by telegraph, to secure a place in one of "Pullman's sleeping cars"--a palace on wheels.  Nothing can exceed them, unless Pullman should excel himself.  He has a capital of a million in this manufacture--has already one hundred and twenty of those "sleeping cars" running, seven "dining cars," and eight "hotel cars."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-185</TITLE>
185.sgm:<TITLE>California notes.  By Charles B. Turrill: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
185.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
185.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
185.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
185.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
185.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-893</LCCN>
185.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
185.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>70289</COPYRIGHT>
185.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>FIRST VOLUME.</p><P>CALIFORNIA NOTES.</p><P>BY</p><P>CHARLES. B. TURRILL.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O California, prodigal of gold,<LB>Rich in the treasures of a wealth untold,<LB>Not in thy bosom's secret store alone<LB>is all the wonder of thy greatness shown.<LB>Within thy confines, happily combined,<LB>The wealth of nature and the might of mind,<LB>A wisdom eminent, a virtue sage,<LB>Give loftier spirit to a sordid age."</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO:</p><P>EDWARD BOSQUI &amp; CO., PRINTERS, COR. CLAY &amp; LEIDESDORFF STS.</p><P>1876.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, by CHARLES B. TURRILL, in the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED TO</p><P>H. A. ADAMS,</p><P>AS A TOKEN OF ESTEEM,</p><P>BY THE AUTHOR.</p></DIV>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P>THE SERIES, of which this present volume is the initial number, is designed to take a place hitherto unoccupied in the literature of California.</p><P>The author treats of sections made familiar from personal observation, coupling with his notes of travel such information, gleaned from standard sources, as the size of this work would permit.  He fully credits all his authorities, and wishes publicly to acknowledge the obligation.  He desires also to thank many friends for their kind assistance.</p><P>It is hoped that this little book may prove a useful guide to the Tourist, and a storehouse of facts for the Resident.  Like the tiny seeds, in whose close bonds the germs of our giant trees lie folded, these fragmentary notes may, perchance, usher in more finished descriptions of the resources and beauties of our Coast.</p><P>C. B. T.</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO, JULY, 1876.</p></DIV>
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185.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>TABLE OF CONTENTS.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.<LB>INTRODUCTION.<LB>Boundaries and area of California, 1; Topographical features of the State, 2; Coast Ranges, 3; Coast Valleys, 4; Sierra Nevada, 4; West Slope of the Sierra, 5; Great California Valley, 5; Central River System, 5; Mountain Rivers, 6; Vegetation of the Plains, 6; Timber on the Coast Ranges, 6; Sierra Nevada timber-belts, 8; California wild flowers, 10; Climate of Pacific Coast, 11; Rains, 11; Low temperature on the Coast, 12; Various Climates along the Coast, 13; Storms, 13; San Francisco summer winds, 14; Fog, 15; California winter, 17; Annual rainfall at San Francisco, 1849-50--1876, 18; Mean temperature at San Francisco, 19; Means of temperature throughout the State, 20.<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>SAN FRANCISCO--PAST AND PRESENT.<LB>First dwelling in San Francisco, 22; Yerba Buena, original name of the settlement, 22; The water front in 1835, and at the present time, 23; Founding of the Mission Dolores, 23; Second house in Yerba Buena, 25; First official survey of the town, 25; Hudson's Bay Company, 26; San Francisco, substituted for the name, Yerba Buena, 26; City in 1847, 27; Rapid growth, 27; Area of San Francisco, 28; Early explorations of the Coast of California, 29; California ceded to the United States--opposition of native Californians, 30; Exports from San Francisco--last three months of 1847, 32; Imports--same period, 32; Total imports 1874-75, 32; Total exports, 1875, 33; Production of California, 1875, 33; Production of gold and silver in the State, 1848-1876, 34; Wheat yield of California, 1855-1876, 35; Exports of wool from San Francisco, 1859-1876, 35; Total exports from San Francisco, 1848-1876, 36.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>CHAPTER III.<LB>DAYS AROUND SAN FRANCISCO.<LB>Cliff House, 38; Routes thither, 38; Saturday afternoon, 39; Golden Gate, 40; Seal Rocks, 40; Sea lion--value, size, 41; Habits, 43; Food, 45; Northern fur seal, 46; Description of same, 47; Value and plentifulness, 48; Cemeteries of San Francisco, 48; Golden Gate Park, 49; Size and improvement thereof, 50; Other Parks, 52; Portsmouth Square, 52; California occupied in the name of the United States, 52; The Plaza, 53; Telegraph Hill, 53; Early great tires in San Francisco, 54; Woodward's Gardens--situation, etc.--museum, conservatories, aquarium, and other attractions, 55; Exotic Gardens and nurseries, 57; Church of Mission Dolores, 58; Dry Docks, 58; United States Branch Mint, 59; Hotels--Palace, Grand, Lick, Occidental, etc., 59; Places of amusement, 63; Chinese Theatres--location, actors, performances, 63; Chinese Joss Houses, 65; Chinatown, 65; Churches, Educational Institutions and Libraries of San Francisco, 66.<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>INTO THE HEART OF THE FOOT-HILLS.<LB>Departure from the city, 67; Views from the ferry boat, 68; Railway journey from Oakland to Stockton, 70; Railroad journey--Stockton to Milton, 72; Gopher Hills, 73; Copper mining region, 74; Copperopolis, 74; Salt Spring Valley, 75; Nut pine, 76; Fruit of the Foot-hills, 78; The Pliocene Skull--the relic of a former race, 80; Vallecito, 82.<LB>CHAPTER V.<LB>CALAVERAS COUNTY.<LB>Boundaries, area, and rivers of the county, 84; Topography, 85; Limestone belt, 85; Murphy's to Mammoth Trees of Calaveras, 87; Description of trees and shrubs--sugar pine, yellow pine, manzanita, buck-eye, 88; Ditches, 91; Flumes, 91; Iron pipes, 92; Moonlight ride through a California forest, 93.<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>CALAVERAS MAMMOTH TREES.<LB>Location of the Grove, 95; First impressions, 95; Young trees, 96; Soil, 96; Dog-wood, 97; Walk through the Grove, 97-103; Age of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Mammoth Tree, 103; Size of trees, 103; "Sequoia gigantea"--description of the tree, bark, wood, cones, leaves, 103; Places of interest in the neighborhood, 105; Later impressions, 105.<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>SOUTH GROVE.<LB>Location and manner of reaching the Grove, 107; Shakes and shake-making, 108; Sylvan scenery, 109; North Fork of the Stanislaus, 110; Basaltic cliffs, 111; Beaver Creek, 111; Chaparral, 112; Ride through the South Grove--trees of interest, 112-116; Characteristics of this Grove, 117; Scenery among the trees, 118.<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>MAMMOTH CAVE OF CALAVERAS.<LB>Location of Cave City, 119; Horseback ride from Mammoth Tree Grove to the Cave, 119; Foot-hill scenery, 120; Sheep in the Sierras, 121; Town of El Dorado, 122; Cave City, 123; Exploration of the Cave--its principal passages and chambers, 124.<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>GOLD MINES.<LB>Extent of California gold field, 129; Gold districts, 130; Geology of gold section, 130; Fineness of California gold, 131; Division of the auriferous belt, 132; Southern Mines--location, 132; Mother lode, 134; Other quartz veins, 136; Dead rivers, 137; Sierra Nevada during the Ice age, 137; Volcanic period, 138; Lava-flow in Northern California, 139; Extinct rivers--their courses and characteristics, 140; Theories of origin, 140-43; Formation of gold nuggets, 144.<LB>CHAPTER X.<LB>GOLD MINING.<LB>Different classes of gold mines--their location and manner of working them, 149; Manner of deposit of gold dust, 150; Formation of river bars, 151; Modes of working various kinds of mines, 152; The pan, 154; Cradle, 155; Pudding-box, 156; Board sluice, 156; Hydraulic mining--its origin and growth, 157; The nozzle, 58; Ditch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Three Brothers, 206; Sentinel, 207; Debris, 207; Trees on the debris, 208; Sentinel Fall, 209; Virgin's Tears Fall, 209; Agassiz Column, 209; Meadows, 209; Merced River, 210; Yosemite Fall, 211; Indian Canon, 213; Yosemite Creek, 213; North Dome, 214; Royal Arches, 215; South Dome, 215; Legend of Totokonula and Tesaiyac, 216; Mirror Lake, 217; Glacier Point, 219; Illilouette Fall and Creek, 219; Route to Vernal and Nevada Falls, 220; Merced River, 220; Vernal Fall, 221; Nevada Fall, 222; Snow's, 223; Cap of Liberty, 223; The Indians and how they make bread, 223; Inspiration Point, 225; Union Point, 225; Glacier Point, 226; Sentinel Dome, 226; Divisions of the Yosemite Valley, 226; Level portion, 226; Debris, 226; Cliffs, 227; Theories for the formation of the Valley, 227; Climbing at Yosemite, 228; Length of visit, 228.<LB>APPENDIX.<LB>Routes, Distances, etc., to the Yosemite Valley, 229; map of routes, 232.</p></DIV>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CALIFORNIA NOTES<LB>CHAPTER I.<LB>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P>THE State of California is, in shape, an irregular parallelogram extending from the boundary line between the United States and Mexico on the south to the parallel of 42&deg; north latitude; and from Nevada and Arizona on the east to the Pacific Ocean.  A straight line drawn from the north-west corner to the south-east corner of the State would be a little over eight hundred miles long.  The average width of the State is about two hundred miles.  The coast line is a broad irregular curve, about 1,100 miles long.  The eastern boundary follows longitude 120&deg; W. between the parallels 42&deg; and 39&deg; north latitude; at the latter parallel it turns east (at an angle of about 50&deg; with the line of long. 120&deg; W.) and advances straight to a point on the Colorado River a short distance below Fort Mohave.  From that place the Colorado River divides California from Arizona.  The area of the State is variously estimated at 155,000 and 188,981 square miles.  The latter number is that given at the General Land Office at Washington.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Professor Whitney writes.<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "In order to bring vividly before the mind the grand simplicity of the topographical features of California, we may draw on the map of the State five equidistant, parallel lines, having a direction of N. 31&deg; W., and 55 miles apart.  Let the middle one of these be drawn at the western base of the Sierra Nevada, touching the edge of the foot-hills, as it will be found to do with the given direction, from Visalia to Red Bluff, the first parallel line east of this, drawn at 55 miles distance, will pass through or very near the highest points of the Sierra, beginning with Mount Shasta, on the north, and touching in succession towards the south, first Lassen's Butte, then Spanish Peak, Pilot Peak, the Downieville Buttes, Pyramid Peak, Castle Peak, Mount Dana, and beyond this, keeping close along the main crest of the Sierra, across the culminating points of the chain which lie to the south of Mount Dana."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Geological Survey of California.  Geology, Vol. 1.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"The next parallel line east of this, still at the same distance of 55 miles, crosses a series of depressions, mostly occupied by lakes, which we may consider as representing the eastern base of the Sierra.  These lakes are the Klamath, Wright, Pyramid, Walker, Death Valley, and Soda Lake, the sink of the Mohave.  At its southern extremity, it marks the confluence of the Colorado and Gila Rivers.</p><P>"The first line to the west of the central one, or that drawn at the western base of the Sierra, will be found to follow very closely the eastern edge of the Coast Ranges, from the neighborhood of Kern Lake <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:to that of Clear Lake, a distance of over 300 miles.  The second line west of the central one, and the last of the series of parallel, equidistant ones, represents, as nearly as possible, the coast line of the Pacific; or, in other words, the western base of the Coast Ranges.  By this curious arrangement, which must be due to the working of great cosmical forces, and which is evidently not the result of chance, we have the State, at least that portion of it between Fort Te&acute;jon and Red Bluff, divided into four belts of nearly equal width (a portion of the most easterly one, however, falling within the limits of the State of Nevada), which are designated as follows, naming them in order from east to west: the Eastern Slope, the Sierra, the Great California Valley, and the Coast Ranges.</p><P>"This arrangement of the physical features of the State holds good for a length of 400 miles, in the direction of the main axial line, and this division of California is the largest and by far the most important, comprising almost the whole of the agricultural and the greater part of the mining districts, and may be designated as Central California; that portion to the south of a line drawn at right angles to the main axial line, or N. 59&deg; E.--S. 59&deg; W., through Fort Te&acute;jon, may be called the Southern Division; that north of a parallel line passing through Fort Reading, may be also designated as the Northern Division of the State."</p><P>The designation, Coast Ranges, includes the many mountain ridges, mostly parallel, which, with an average breadth of forty miles, extend along the coast from the northern to the southern boundary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:of California.  These separate ranges are known by a multitude of names.  There does not appear in these ranges, as in the Sierra Nevada, to be any bond of connection between the highest peaks.  The entire range is a series of mountain knots and spurs, which stretch in every direction, yet with a general trend, some uniting with neighboring spurs, while others sink into fertile plains.  The entire system of mountains is dotted with small valleys of great beauty.</p><P>These valleys are largest in the vicinity of the Bay of San Francisco and its tributaries.  Here there is a break in the mountain chains.  As the spurs from the north trend toward the bays of Suisun, San Pablo, and San Francisco, they spread out like the fingers of a rocky hand.  Between these giant digits lie some of the most picturesque valleys in the State.  Among these may be mentioned Petaluma, Sonoma, Napa, Suisun and Vaca; while further north, where the fingers unite with the palm, Clear Lake, surrounded by little valleys, reposes in the embrace of the mountains.  South of the Bay of San Francisco, the two main ridges of the Coast mountains stand back from the bay, forming the fertile Santa Clara Valley.  In Contra Costa County the Mount Diablo group is flanked on all sides by numerous productive valleys.</p><P>The ridges of the Sierra Nevada, seventy miles in breadth, extend along the eastern side of the State, from latitude 35&deg; to 40&deg;.  At these points they become so merged in the complicated groups of the Coast Ranges that nothing but an extensive examination into the geology of the ridges will reveal which peaks belong to the eastern and which to the western range.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>A long axial line extends through the Sierra Nevada.  Mount Shasta is the northern terminus of this line, while the southern extremity passes through that knot of high mountains (altitude 10,000 feet and over) which has been designated as the Californian Alps.</p><P>The western slope of the Sierra is gradual, sinking into retreating foothills which finally glide into the level plains of the Great California Valley.  The eastern descent is more abrupt.  As we look at the Sierra from the east it seems like a long, high, rocky coast, against which strange seas have beaten for ages, and on retiring have disclosed the rocky ripples which diversify the surface of the ground in the State of Nevada.</p><P>Between the two grand mountain systems of California lies the Great California Valley, about three hundred and fifty miles long and from forty to fifty miles broad.  The northern half of this plain is the Sacramento Valley, while the Valley of the San Joaquin forms the southern portion.</p><P>Through this central plain, about equidistant from the mountain walls, flow the two great rivers of California.  The Sacramento from the north brings down the water from the northern and western portion of the Sierra and the east slope of the Coast Ranges.  The San Joaquin from the south drains Kern, Buena Vista and Tulare Lakes, and receives as tributaries all the streams from the western watershed of the lower end of the Sierra Nevada.  At the center of the valley the twin rivers empty their united waters into Suisun Bay, whence they reach the ocean through the narrow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Straits of Carquinez, by way of the bays, San Pablo and San Francisco.</p><P>On the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada there are comparatively few rivers, all of which lose themselves in the dry lands of Nevada.</p><P>The rivers of the west side of the Coast Range are mostly short and are not navigable, with the exception of the Salinas.  The rivers north of the Bay of San Francisco are frequently impeded by sand bars thrown across their mouths by the ocean tides.</p><P>Regarding the vegetation of the plains of California, Professor Whitney writes:<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "These are the most park-like valleys in the world.  By far the largest number of trees in these valleys are oaks, and they grow, not uniformly distributed over the surface, but in graceful clumps, just as if arranged by the most skillful landscape gardener.  The burr oak ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus lobata</HI>
185.sgm: ) is the one which gives, in the central California Valley, the most character to the landscape; it grows to a great size, and has the peculiar, gracefully drooping branches of the American elm; some of the noblest specimens of it are to be found in the Napa Valley.  Other conspicuous oaks are the live oak ( <HI REND="italics">Q. agrifolia</HI>
185.sgm: ), a puzzle to botanists from the variability of its foliage, the white ( <HI REND="italics">Q. Garryana</HI>
185.sgm: ), the black ( <HI REND="italics">Q. Sonomensis</HI>
185.sgm: ), and the chestnut ( <HI REND="italics">Q. densiflora</HI>
185.sgm: ).</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">The Yosemite Guide Book, pocket edition of 1874, p. 45.  The author would refer to this valuable work all who desire a fuller account of the Yosemite Valley than our limited space will allow.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"As we rise above the valleys, and especially in the vicinity of the ocean, and in the deep shaded can&tilde;ons which intersect the mountains, and where the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:moisture brought by the winds from the sea is not too rapidly evaporated, we find a more considerable growth of forest trees in the Coast Ranges, and especially as we proceed toward the northwest.  Pines and oaks, however, everywhere greatly predominate.  Of the pines, <HI REND="italics">Pinus Coulteri</HI>
185.sgm: is remarkable as having the largest and most beautiful cones of all the pines; <HI REND="italics">P. Sabiniana</HI>
185.sgm:, the digger pine, or silver pine, a very characteristic tree of the foot-hills, especially of the Sierra Nevada, up to 2,000 feet elevation, and also on the dry southerly hillsides of the Coast Ranges; <HI REND="italics">P. insignis</HI>
185.sgm:, the well-known ornamental `Monterey pine,' quite limited in its distribution to some thousands of acres about Monterey and Carmelo; <HI REND="italics">P. muricata</HI>
185.sgm: is another Coast Range species, and <HI REND="italics">P. ponderosa</HI>
185.sgm: (the yellow pine) and <HI REND="italics">P. Lambertiana</HI>
185.sgm: (the sugar pine) are found in both Sierra and Coast Ranges.  The redwood ( <HI REND="italics">Sequoia sempervirens</HI>
185.sgm: ) is also one of the grand characteristic trees of the California Coast Ranges, to which it is exclusively confined; with it grows frequently the well-known Douglas fir ( <HI REND="italics">Abies Douglasii</HI>
185.sgm: ).  Besides these there are the laurel ( <HI REND="italics">Tetranthera Californica</HI>
185.sgm: ), of which the wood is now coming into use for ornamental cabinet work; the madrona, <ANCHOR ID="n1-3">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: a very characteristic and beautiful tree with its red bark and glossy leaves.  The Monterey cypress ( <HI REND="italics">Cupressus macrocarpa</HI>
185.sgm: ) is another magnificent tree, greatly resembling the cedar of Lebanon; but strictly confined to one locality at Cypress Point, near Monterey.  Of the shrubby undergrowth, the chamiso ( <HI REND="italics">Adenostema</HI>
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185.sgm:<HI REND="italics">fasiculata</HI>
185.sgm: ), the manzanita ( <HI REND="italics">Arctostaphylos glauca</HI>
185.sgm: ), and different species of the <HI REND="italics">Ceanothus</HI>
185.sgm:, called `California lilac' by settlers from the Eastern States, on account of the resemblance of its perfume to that of the Eastern lilac, are the most prominent.  These shrubs, separate or mingled together, and associated with a variety of shrubby oaks, each furnished with as many thorns as there are points to leaves or branches, make what is universally known in California as `chaparral'; and large regions, especially near the summits of the mountains in the Coast Ranges, are often densely covered with this abominable undergrowth, utterly preventing free circulation, and rendering parts of the State quite inaccessible."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3">Properly the `madron&tilde;o,' but the name is everywhere pronounced and spelled as written above."</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"There are four pretty well marked belts of forest vegetation on the west slope of the Sierra, and that of the eastern slope would make a fifth for the whole range.  These belts, however, pass gradually into each other, and are not so defined that lines can be drawn separating or distinctly limiting them, and the division into groups or belts here proposed will only be found to hold good in the central portion of the State; as we go north all the groups of species gradually descend in elevation, especially in approaching the coast.</p><P>"Of the four belts on the western slope of the Sierra, the lowest is that of the foot-hills, extending up to about 3,000 feet in elevation; its most characteristic species are the digger pine ( <HI REND="italics">P. Sabiniana</HI>
185.sgm: ) and the black oak ( <HI REND="italics">Q. Sonomensis</HI>
185.sgm: ) these stand sparsely scattered over the hillsides, or in graceful groups, nowhere forming what can be called a forest.  ** <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:The small side valleys, gulches or can&tilde;ons, as they are called in California, according to their dimensions, are lined with flowering shrubs, of which the California `buck-eye' ( <HI REND="italics">&aelig;sculus California</HI>
185.sgm: ) is, at this altitude, by far the most conspicuous, gradually giving place, as we ascend, to the various species of the delightfully fragrant <HI REND="italics">Ceanothus</HI>
185.sgm:, or California lilac.  Manzanita and chamiso are, of course, abundant everywhere, and especially on the driest hillsides and summits.</p><P>"The next belt is that of the pitch pine, or <HI REND="italics">Pinus ponderosa</HI>
185.sgm:, the sugar pine ( <HI REND="italics">P. Lambertiana</HI>
185.sgm: ), the white or bastard cedar ( <HI REND="italics">Libocedrus decurrens</HI>
185.sgm: ), and the Douglas spruce ( <HI REND="italics">Abies Douglasii</HI>
185.sgm: ); this is peculiarly the forest belt of the Sierra Nevada, or that in which they have their finest development.  The pitch pine replaces the digger pine first, and more and more of the sugar pine is seen from about 4,000 feet on to 5,000, at which altitude the last-named noble and peculiarly Californian tree is most abundant.  ** It is also in this belt that the `Big Trees' belong.</p><P>"The third zone of forest vegetation is that of the firs ( <HI REND="italics">Picea grandis</HI>
185.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">amabilis</HI>
185.sgm: ), with the tamarack pine ( <HI REND="italics">P. contorta</HI>
185.sgm: ) taking to a considerable extent the place of the pitch and sugar pines.  This belt extends from 7,000 to 9,000 feet above the sea, in the central part of the State. *** These firs, especially the <HI REND="italics">amabilis</HI>
185.sgm:, which is distinguished by the geometrical regularity with which its branches are divided, are most superb trees; they attain a large size, are very symmetrical in their growth, and have a dark green brilliant foliage, which is very fragrant.  A pine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:called <HI REND="italics">Pinus Jeffreyi</HI>
185.sgm:, by some considered a variety of the <HI REND="italics">ponderosa</HI>
185.sgm:, is also a characteristic tree of the upper part of this belt; and above this sets in the <HI REND="italics">Pinus monticola</HI>
185.sgm:, which takes the place of the <HI REND="italics">Piceas</HI>
185.sgm: at a high elevation.</p><P>"The highest belt of all is that of the <HI REND="italics">Pinus albicaulis</HI>
185.sgm: (or <HI REND="italics">flexilis</HI>
185.sgm: of some botanists), which marks the limit of vegetation in the middle and northern Sierra, <HI REND="italics">Pinus aristata</HI>
185.sgm: taking its place in the more southern region, about the head of King's and Kern Rivers.  The <HI REND="italics">albicaulis</HI>
185.sgm: generally shows itself at the line just where vegetation is going to give out altogether."</p><P>Regarding the less imposing vegetation of the valleys and hillsides, Thomas Starr King wrote:</p><P>"Early in May**the country is at the height of its brief bloom.  California has often been compared with Palestine and Syria for scenery.  The passages in the Psalms and the New Testament which describe the fleeting beauty of the flowers and the grass, are certainly applicable here.  `For the sun is no sooner risen with a burning heat, than it withereth the grass, and the flower thereof falleth, and the grace of the fashion of it perisheth.'  Indeed, there is no grass, properly speaking, native to the landscape.  The green of early May on the uncultivated plains and slopes is mostly that of the wild oats.  As the summer sun rises, and the rains cease, they ripen into a golden tinge, which, at a distance, is the hue of sand, and their seed drops into the parched and crackling ground for new crops when the rain returns.  By the middle of June all the wild fields that are destitute of trees look sandy with this harvest of indigenous and self-sowed grains."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>The wild flowers of California are not only very abundant but of great variety.  The botanist is delighted as he gathers one new treasure after another, until after a few hour's walk he has found material for a long study.  In April and May the hillsides around San Francisco are clothed with a myriad-hued robe of flowers.  In June the Yosemite Valley, and the Sierra Nevada generally, are carpeted with those "autographs of angels," as a poet has prettily styled them.</p><P>In relation to the climate of California, a few extracts from the writings of Lorin Blodget will be of interest.<ANCHOR ID="n1-4">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "The Pacific coast of this continent differs from the west coast of Europe in some conspicuous points, though the two are generally similar, in accordance with the analogies of continental position.****The winter and cooler months are delightfully equable on the whole coast, but the summer is harsh, and widely different from the summers of Europe which have the same temperature for the winter.  This reduction of temperature is due to the joint action of the heated surface of the interior and the cold mass of waters off the coast, the last being peculiar to the western coasts of this continent, and unknown to the corresponding coasts of the old world."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-4">Climatology of the United States.  Lorin Blodget.  Phila. 1857.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"The rains of the Pacific coast are periodic,**and in this respect they differ entirely from those of the west of Europe in corresponding latitudes.  It is not easy to account for this difference, and particularly for the fact that this periodicity is continued to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:the 48th parallel.  At Sitka, lat. 57&deg;, it almost disappears, however, and the year is nearly equally rainy throughout."*******</p><P>"The rains of this best known portion of the Pacific coast, are***peculiar in regard to the attending winds, which from San Diego to Puget's Sound, are, in nearly all cases, from the south-east and south with a strong and steady force.  There are, also, simply <HI REND="italics">attendant</HI>
185.sgm: winds, and not those which may be said to bring the rains, --the course of clouds above the local or surface wind being quite regular from the west.  But no sooner is precipitation begun than the attendant southeast wind sets in, to be continued steadily to the end of the rain in most cases."**</p><P>"Apparently an immense cold current approaches the coast here at 35 to 45 degrees of latitude, which in summer exercises a wide and decisive influence on all the included coast, its maximum and central point being nearly at San Francisco.  The temperature is not only kept at the average of the earlier months of the summer, but it is made to fall below that temperature at exposed points.  This anomaly appears most distinctly at San Francisco, where October is equal to July, and September the warmest month of the year.  The range between the months of January and July is 8.3&deg; only, while at Washington it is 44.2&deg;, or more than five times as great.</p><P>"The coast atmosphere, though of low temperature, does not appear to be as humid as that of England and France, notwithstanding the large quantity of sensible moisture, fog or mist, on the sea winds at San Francisco.  Below or south of the Columbia River it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:is mainly dry and bracing at all seasons, or the general climatological effect is such, in contrast to that of Sitka where the saturation is excessive, and the quantity of rain like that at Bergen, in Norway.  The low temperature southward is a single and distinct condition, as it appears; and if it were removed the whole coast would much more nearly correspond with that of Europe, where, as along the west of Spain and of Portugal, the prevailing features for the season are dryness and serenity.</p><P>"Thus the Pacific coast climates are Norwegian, English, and Spanish or Portuguese; with the intermediate France blotted out, and an anomalous temperature substituted, so cold at midsummer as to cut off the vines and corn which ought to be found there.  All these are confined to narrow districts or lines also, throughout the entire extent of coast, and they never penetrate the interior or influence very large islands, except that of Vancouver, and no peninsulas."*******</p><P>"Dr. Gibbons has recently defined some points quite carefully in the course of observations at San Francisco.  (Am. Jour. of Science.)  He says in regard to storms: `The easterly storms which form so prominent a feature of the Atlantic climate are unknown here; there is nothing that bears any resemblance to them.  The rains from the southeast are often attended with high gales, which extend over a large portion of the western coast of North America and inflict some injury on shipping, but these gales are less violent than the severe easterly storms of the Atlantic coast.  The direction of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:cloud producing the rain is often of greater importance than of the lower atmospheric current.  There are usually two strata of clouds, the lower concurring with the wind on the earth's surface and seldom supplying rain, and the higher, which is the true rain-cloud, varying in its course from the lower, and sometimes having the very opposite direction.'"</p><P>"`In almost every month of the year, even during the dry season, the clouds put on the appearance of rain and then vanish.  It is evident that the phenomena which produce rains in other climates are present in this, but not in sufficient degree to accomplish the result except during the rainy season, and then only by paroxysms with intervening periods of drought.'"********</p><P>"The proportion of cloudy days at San Francisco is stated by the same authority (Dr. Gibbons) as very low.***Farther in the interior it is well known that the clouds still more completely disappear, giving, for the valleys of the San Joaquin and Sacramento, a sky remarkably free from clouds.**</p><P>"The most remarkable phenomenon there, (in California) is the summer coast wind and its attendant mists.  This seems to be due solely to the proximity of districts of great heat and sudden rarefaction on the land, to the cold mass of waters off this coast, and to its refrigerated surface atmosphere.  A maximum dry temperature of 110&deg; is often experienced at Fort Miller, a point in the San Joaquin Valley, when at the same time off Monterey and San Francisco the sea and sea wind are at 55&deg;.  Such extreme contrasts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:existing at sea level and not far apart must be expected to originate violent winds, and it is only wonderful that they are not more severe at the passes giving access to the interior."*****</p><P>"Dr. Gibbons describes these winds as follows:</p><P>"`Whatever may be the direction of the wind in the forenoon, in the spring, summer, and autumn months, it almost invariably works round to the west in the afternoon.  So constant is this phenomenon that in the seven months from April to October inclusive there were but three days on which it failed to do so, and these were rainy.  The sea winds are moderate until May, when they begin to give trouble.  In June they increase in force, reaching their greatest violence at the beginning of July.  In August they decline in force but not in constancy; in September they continue steady though moderate; and in October they lose their annoying qualities and become gentle and agreeable.'"***"The winds of five months of the summer are * almost wholly from the sea.</p><P>"The attendant mist is peculiar, and it is evidently a condensation produced by contact of the cold air alone, and not by natural condensation in the volume coming from the sea.  The air out at sea is usually clear and the mist only forms a narrow rolling line along the place of contact of the volumes differing so widely in temperature.  Any cold jet of air intruded into a mass having a high temperature will produce a similar condensation.  To quote again from the graphic accounts of Dr. Gibbons:</p><P>"`The sun shines forth with genial warmth, the mercury rising generally from 50&deg; at sunrise to 60&deg; or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:65&deg; at noon, but when the sun has reached the zenith the wind rapidly increases, coming down in gusts from the hills which separate the city from the ocean, and often bringing with it clouds of mist.  But the dampness is never sufficient to prevent the elevation of clouds of sand and dust which sport through the streets in the most lively manner.  The mercury falls suddenly, and long before sunset fixes itself within a few degrees of 50&deg;, where it remains pertinaciously till next morning; often not moving a hair's breadth for twelve hours.***The mist often increases towards evening and when the wind falls remains all night in shape of a heavy fog.  Sometimes, when the sun has been shining brightly the mist comes in from the ocean in one great wave and suddenly submerges the landscape.  In short there is no conceivable admixture of wind, dust, cloud, fog, and sunshine that is not constantly on hand during the summer at San Francisco.'</p><P>"Sometimes this mist falls in a palpable fine rain, and it generally gravitates towards the earth as fast as formed.  It is evidently the condensed moisture of the heated air of the interior, which though intensely dry when at its very high temperature, must necessarily condense moisture in cooling 30&deg; or 40&deg;, and to little more than half its measure of heat on the surface and in the full exposure to the sun."</p><P>***"It is in summer only that these effects are felt, and that the local peculiarity exists in the temperature of the sea.  In winter the water is actually warmer than in July, apparently because the force driving the cold current from the northern seas <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:has become greatly weakened, and the current being less, it is perhaps overlaid by the warm waters of the average of that sea in those latitudes.  In winter, therefore, the disturbance or anomaly ceases which forms so singular a feature of the climate of the warmer months for near twenty degrees of latitude."</p><P>"The elastic atmosphere and bracing effect of the Pacific climates constitutes a striking difference from those of the Eastern States.  Whether due to the absence of humidity alone is not clear, but to whatever cause it is due, it is a notable practical feature.  The interior valleys where the heat is excessive are similar to the cold coast also, and there is no climate which is not the reverse of enervating.**The heat of the south, where the peculiarities of Spain are reproduced, is never enervating, and that of the excessively hot valleys of the interior is singularly endurable."</p><P>Regarding the rains of the State, Dr. Gibbons writes:</p><P>"It is a striking feature of the winter of California that when the weather puts on its rainy habit, the rain continues every day for an indefinite period; and when it ceases there is an entire absence of mist for a long time."</p><P>The amount of rain which annually falls in California is extremely irregular.  The following table of the yearly rain fall at San Francisco, from the observations of Mr. Thomas Tennent, will be of interest to some readers:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>YEAR<HSEP>INCHES</p><P>1849-50<HSEP>33.10</p><P>1850-51<HSEP>7.40</p><P>1851-52<HSEP>18.44</p><P>1852-53<HSEP>35.26</p><P>1853-54<HSEP>23.87</p><P>1854-55<HSEP>23.68</p><P>1855-56<HSEP>21.66</p><P>1856-57<HSEP>19.81</p><P>1857-58<HSEP>21.88</p><P>1858-59<HSEP>22.22</p><P>1859-60<HSEP>22.27</p><P>1860-61<HSEP>19.72</p><P>1861-62<HSEP>49.27</p><P>1862-63<HSEP>13.62</p><P>1863-64<HSEP>10.08</p><P>1864-65<HSEP>24.73</p><P>1865-66<HSEP>22.93</p><P>1866-67<HSEP>34.92</p><P>1867-68<HSEP>38.84</p><P>1868-69<HSEP>21.35</p><P>1869-70<HSEP>19.31</p><P>1870-71<HSEP>14.10</p><P>1871-72<HSEP>34.71</p><P>1872-73<HSEP>18.02</p><P>1873-74<HSEP>23.98</p><P>1874-75<HSEP>18.40</p><P>July 1, 1875, to April 30, 1876<HSEP>25.81</p><P>N.B.--Observations from July 1st to July 1st.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>MEAN TEMPERATURE AT SAN FRANCISCO.</p><P>From data furnished by Thomas Tennent, San Francisco (three observations daily).</p><P><illus entity="a185-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
185.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>The following table of mean temperatures will convey an idea of the climate of California.  The authority is Lorin Blodget's Climatology of the United States:</p><P>TABLE OF MEAN TEMPERATURES. (CALIFORNIA.)</p><P><illus entity="a185-0002" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
185.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>TABLE OF MEAN TEMPERATURES.  (CALIFORNIA.)--Continued.</p><P><illus entity="a185-0003" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
185.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.<LB>SAN FRANCISCO--PAST AND PRESENT.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P>IT IS not unusual to hear exclamations of surprise from the visitor in San Francisco when he sees for the first time this young city of the Pacific.  To an inhabitant of the Old World, or even to a resident of the longer-settled districts of our country, it is a source of wonder to contemplate the rapid growth from one dwelling--a large tent<ANCHOR ID="n2-1">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: in 1835, to a city with an estimated population of two hundred and thirty thousand<ANCHOR ID="n2-2">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: in 1875.<ANCHOR ID="n2-3">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-1">Annals of San Francisco.  N.Y. 1860. p. 163.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-2">Municipal Reports of San Francisco 1874-75, p. 111.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-3">Estimated Population (March 1st, 1876,) Langley's Directory, 272,345.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Our space will permit but a brief <HI REND="italics">re&acute;sume&acute;</HI>
185.sgm: of the development of San Francisco.  Its political history possesses but small interest for the tourist, and we will, therefore, refer to but a few of the more important events.</p><P>The original name of the little hamlet which afterwards became this city was Yerba Buena.  This name was also applied to an island in the Bay of San Francisco--now called Goat Island--and to a small cove in the peninsula, opposite that island, along which a few rude buildings were scattered.  This minor bay extended between Clark's Point and Rincon Point, a distance of little more than half a mile.  A few rocks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:at Clark's Point afforded the only landing for small boats.  The water was shallow within the cove, and at low tide an extensive mud flat was here disclosed.  Many who to-day visit the Post Office, at the corner of Washington and Battery streets, little think that this building with all in the vicinity is built upon soil over which the waters of the bay once flowed.  The bay originally extended to a point on the present Jackson street, midway between Montgomery and Kearny.  To-day the water front is nearly six blocks, more than half a mile, farther toward the east, thus reaching deep water.  The greater number of the importing and wholesale houses stand where during the "Fall of '49 and the Spring of '50" large vessels were anchored."</p><P>The Mission of San Francisco was founded October 9th, 1776.<ANCHOR ID="n2-4">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: The original designation was Mission de los Dolores de Nuestro Padre San Francisco de Assisi, which dwindled first to Mission Dolores, and then to the "Mission."  The Mission was named in honor of the sufferings of Francisco of Assisi, the founder of the Order of Franciscans.  It was first located "near the `lagoon,' back of Russian Hill; but the winds were so bitter there that soon it was removed to the spot on the creek where the crumbling old church and some of the houses that surrounded it still stand."<ANCHOR ID="n2-5">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-4">History of California, Franklin Tuthill. S.F. 1866, p. 85.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-5">History of California, p. 86.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>A land expedition from Monterey arrived at a point near the northern end of the peninsula of San Francisco, June 27th, 1776.  "Some soldiers, and a few families from Sonora, as intending settlers, had accompanied the expedition.  They carried with them a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:number of black cattle and sheep, horses, mules, field and garden seeds, and other necessary means of stocking and making the settlements a profitable investment.  While waiting the arrival of the store-ship from Monterey, which, owing to foul winds, did not take place till the 18th of August following, the expedition began to make preparations for their permanent abode by cutting down timber, and selecting what appeared to be the most eligible site for a settlement.  On the 17th day of September, solemn possession was taken of the Presidio, `the day,' according to Father Palou, the historian of the achievements of Father Junipero,<ANCHOR ID="n2-6">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: `being the festival of the impression of the sores of Saint Francis, the patron of the port.  After blessing, adoring, and planting the holy cross, the first mass was chanted, and the ceremony concluded by a <HI REND="italics">Te Deum</HI>
185.sgm:; the act of possession in the name of our sovereign being accompanied with many discharges of artillery and musketry by sea and land.'"<ANCHOR ID="n2-7">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-6">Father Junipero Serra was one of the most energetic of the founders of the California Missions.  He was, although in wretched health, one of a land expedition to Alta California in 1769.  He made the mission on the Carmel River his home, after its founding.  He was the founder of eight missions.  Father Junipero was "the President of all the missions in Upper California until his death," in 1784.--See History of California, Franklin Tuthill, chap. 6.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-7">Annals of San Francisco, p. 47.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Besides the Presidio and Mission, a fort was also built.  This was constructed on the rocky hight which was afterward leveled off when the brick fort which now commands the entrance to the bay of San Francisco was erected.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>"Before 1835, the village of Yerba Buena had neither name nor existence."<ANCHOR ID="n2-8">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: In that year Captain W. A. Richardson, manager of two schooners doing business between the missions around the bay, was appointed first Harbormaster.  He erected a tent, which was the nucleus of the future city.  Whale ships began to visit the port for supplies in 1822, and continued so to do until the days of the gold excitement.  At that time they refitted at the Sandwich Islands, partly with a view to prevent their crews from deserting <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
185.sgm: and rushing to the gold fields.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-8">Annals of San Francisco, p. 162.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The second house erected in Yerba Buena--a frame building, sixty feet long and twenty-five feet broad--was completed July 4th, 1836.  This stood at a point which was afterward the corner of Clay and Dupont streets.  The day that this house was finished was made a holiday, and the American flag was then raised for the first time on the shores of Yerba Buena.<ANCHOR ID="n2-9">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-9">Annals of San Francisco, p. 169.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The first regular survey of the plain and cove of Yerba Buena was made in 1839, by order of Don J. B. Alvarado, Constitutional Governor of California.  "It included those portions of the present city which lie between Pacific street on the north, Sacramento street on the south, Dupont street on the west, and Montgomery street on the east."<ANCHOR ID="n2-10">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: This last street then formed the beach of the cove.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-10">Annals of San Francisco, p. 172.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Until 1841 the history of this small village is of little interest.  It was separated by a barrier of sand hills from the Mission Dolores, about three miles distant, and was also divided from the Presidio by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:another range of hills.  In 1841, the Hudson's Bay Company bought the frame house before mentioned, and continued in possession until 1846, in which year they sold their property and removed from Yerba Buena.  In 1844, the place contained about a dozen houses and boasted a population of fifty.  In 1846, the number of inhabitants is stated to have increased to two hundred,<ANCHOR ID="n2-11">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: and from that time the progress of the settlement was more marked.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-11">Annals of San Francisco, p. 173.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>On January 30th, 1847, the following important ordinance appeared:</p><P>"WHEREAS, the local name of Yerba Buena, as applied to the settlement or town of San Francisco, is unknown beyond the district; and has been applied from the local name of the cove on which the town is built:  <HI REND="italics">Therefore</HI>
185.sgm:, to prevent confusion and mistakes in public documents, and that the town may have the advantage of the name given on the public map,</p><P>"IT IS HEREBY ORDAINED, that the name of SAN FRANCISCO shall hereafter be used in all official communications and public documents, or records appertaining to the town.</p><P>"WASH'N A. BARTLETT, Chief Magistrate.</p><P>"Published by order,</p><P>"J. G. T. DUNLEAVY, Municipal Clerk."<ANCHOR ID="n2-12">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-12">Annals of San Francisco, pp. 178, 179.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>At the end of April, 1848, at the time the rush to the newly discovered gold mines began, the population of San Francisco was about one thousand.  Those were days of excitement.  Ship loads of gold hunters were almost daily arriving, and every day witnessed the departure of miners to the new El Dorado.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>In 1847, the principal parts of the town were laid out in fifty vara lots (137 1/2 feet square).  These sub-divisions, of which six formed a block, sold for less than sixteen dollars each.  The land farther from the water front was sold in one hundred vara pieces (four fifty vara lots) for less than thirty dollars each.  Prior to this time, on July 20th, 1847, about two hundred water lots, which have since been filled in as has been before mentioned, were sold "for the benefit of the Town of San Francisco."  These lots were about 45x137 1/2 feet, and the prices paid ranged from fifty to one hundred dollars each.  Such was the value of real estate in the "town" of San Francisco previous to the days of gold excitement.</p><P>In regard to the rapid growth of San Francisco at this time, the following extract from Bayard Taylor's El Dorado (Household Edition, N.Y., 1873, pp. 109-110) is of interest.  The writer was returning from a hasty excursion to "the mines," and mentions the changes which had taken place during his absence of three weeks: "The town had not only greatly extended its limits, but seemed actually to have doubled its number of dwellings since I left.  High up on the hills, where I had seen only sand and chaparral, stood clusters of houses; streets which had been merely laid out, were hemmed in with buildings and thronged with people; new warehouses had sprung up on the water side, and new piers were creeping out toward the shipping; and the noise, motion and bustle of business and labor on all sides were incessant."</p><P>It was many years after its permanent settlement before the property holders formed any idea of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:area over which the city of San Francisco would soon extend.  This is what was written in 1853.<ANCHOR ID="n2-13">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-13">Annals of San Francisco, p. 160.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"The deepening water will prevent the city from moving much farther into the bay, while the steep rising grounds in the rear will equally prevent it from climbing and spreading over the sandy, irregular country beyond them.  The city will probably, therefore, be forced to proceed northward towards the North Beach, where there is already a long pier formed, but where there is remaining but limited building room at best.  It will also spread, as it is beginning to do, over the extensive and comparatively level tract of ground lying to the south-west, on the banks of Mission Creek, and in the direction of the Mission Dolores.  Perhaps not many years hence the whole shores at North Beach and South Beach (Mission Bay), and the bay itself to a considerable distance from the present high-water mark, will be covered with streets and houses, quays and long-piercing piers, just as now is the cove of Yerba Buena."</p><P>To-day the "City and County of San Francisco" covers an area of 26,861 acres, of which 1,500 acres, constituting the Presidio reservation, belong to the United States Government.<ANCHOR ID="n2-14">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: The city has been "forced to proceed northward towards North Beach," and has extended "over the comparatively level tract of ground lying to the southwest."  But the "steep rising ground in the rear" has not prevented the extension of the city westward "over the sandy irregular country."  The entire County of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:Francisco is laid out in building lots, the smallest and most remote of which sell for more than the lots at the first sale of real estate in "the Town of San Francisco, Upper California."  Many of the hills that formerly stood in the way of improvement have been removed, and where a mountain of sand towered in 1849 the Lick House is located to-day.  Immense amounts of money have been expended in leveling hills and filling in the bay, but the work has scarcely more than begun.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-14">Natural Wealth of California, p. 644.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>A digression may be pardoned here.  It is well known that the territory at present embraced in the State of California was discovered in 1542 by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese by birth, sailing in the service of Spain.  "He discovered and named the Farallone Islands," and also a cape, which he named Mendosa, in honor of his friend the Viceroy of Mexico, under whose auspices he had sailed from Navidad, Mexico.<ANCHOR ID="n2-15">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-15">Natural Wealth of California, p. 5.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The cape which Cabrillo discovered is now called Mendocino.</p><P>Sir Francis Drake discovered a bay at lat. 38&deg; (Drake's Bay) in 1578.  He was not aware that the Spanish had landed on this coast thirty-six years previous.  He accordingly took possession of the land in the name of Elizabeth, and called the country New Albion.</p><P>General Sebastian Viscaino, sailing under orders from Philip III.<ANCHOR ID="n2-16">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: of Spain, in 1602 explored the coast of Upper California, discovering the harbor of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:Diego, November 10th: the bay of Monterey<ANCHOR ID="n2-17">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: December 16th of the same year; and subsequently the islands in the Santa Barbara channel.  Viscaino also anchored behind a point of land which he named Punta de los Reyes.  He there (in Drake's Bay) found the wreck of a Spanish vessel lost in 1595.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-17">Named in honor of Gasper de Zunniga, Count de Monte Rey, at the time Viceroy of Mexico.  The bay was first called Port of Pines.--Natural Wealth of California, p. 6</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Numerous attempts were made from 1610 to 1660 to explore the country, in which it was thought that valuable mineral deposits were to be found.  These expeditions all set out from Mexican ports.</p><P>In 1767 the Fathers of the Order of St. Francis began their work of founding Missions in Alta California.  The missionaries effected the restoration of the country to Spain.</p><P>The names, "New Albion," and "Drake's Land back of Canada" were discarded, and the former name, California, again was used to designate a territor of immense extent, but uncertain boundaries.  California had so long been used to characterize the peninsula alone, that the territory to the north was denominated New, Upper, or Alta California.</p><P>When Mexico became a separate government the large tract of California was a part of her territory.  At the conclusion of the Mexican war it became a portion of the United States.  During these early days there was a bitter feeling against the Americans in some quarters, and some leading men among the number, the then Territorial Governor--Pio Pico, a native California--favored annexation to England.  The Governor, in addressing the Departmental <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Assembly, in May, 1846, said.<ANCHOR ID="n2-18">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "We find ourselves threatened by hordes of Yankee emigrants, who have already begun to flock into our country, and whose progress we cannot arrest.  Already have the wagons of that perfidious people scaled the almost inaccessible summits of the Sierra Nevada, crossed the entire continent, and penetrated the fruitful valley of the Sacramento.  What that astonishing people will next undertake, I cannot say; in whatever enterprise they embark, they will be sure to be successful.  Already, these adventurous voyagers, spreading themselves far and wide over a country which seems to suit their tastes, are cultivating farms, establishing vineyards, erecting mills, sawing up lumber, and doing a thousand other things which seem natural to them.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-18">Natural Wealth of California, p.51.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Yes, "hordes of Yankee emigrants" have flocked into California.  No longer do the Mission form the centres of civilization.  Immense herds of wild cattle have ceased to roam over the valley lands.  The adventurous voyagers are indeed "doing a thousand things which seem natural to them,"  Another race, or more properly a combination of races, now possesses the lands once held by the native Californians.  American enterprise has wakened the country from is lethargy, the hills open their treasure vaults to the miners' repeated knockings, and wild oats have been superceded by more fruitful cereals.  Commerce has visited the port of St. Francis.  Manufactories are transforming the new raw products of the State into a variety of useful forms.  Yes, the California of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Pio Pico's time exists no longer; but a grand commonwealth has risen to take its place.</p><P>The total exports from the port of San Francisco for the last three months of 1847 are reported at $49,597.53; imports for the same period at $53,589.73.  Of the amount exported $30,353.85 represent the native produce of California.<ANCHOR ID="n2-19">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-19">Annals of San Francisco, p. 198.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"The total importations for the years 1874 and 1875 stands thus:<ANCHOR ID="n2-20">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-20">San Francisco Journal of Commerce, January 12, 1876.  Vol. 6, No. 2.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>1874.<HSEP>1875.</p><P>Foreign<HSEP>$26,867,696<HSEP>$29,424,200</p><P>Domestic via Panama<HSEP>8,713,862<HSEP>4,797,258</p><P>Domestic via Railroad<HSEP>16,000,000<HSEP>20,000,000</p><P>Domestic via Clipper<HSEP>25,000,000<HSEP>27,500,000</p><P>Totals<HSEP>$76,581,558<HSEP>$81,721,458</p><P>76,581,558</p><P>Increase over 1874<HSEP>$5,139,900</p><P>"In this, where no account of Coin and Bullion is taken, the increase by clipper and by railroad is quite as remarkable as the decrease by steam via Panama.  Of these imports much larger stocks are carried forward into 1876 than were carried forward a year ago into 1875, but there is no doubt that there will be an increased consumption, and imports in the early part of the year will probably be light.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Total exports during 1875:</p><P>Total exports of Foreign commodities<HSEP>$3,528,588</p><P>Total exports of Domestic commodities<HSEP>31,288,424</p><P>Total exports of Domestic commoditiesvia Panama to Atlantic ports of United States<HSEP>1,948,625</p><P>Total exports during 1875<HSEP>$36,765,637</p><P>The production of the State of California for 1875 is shown in the following table.<ANCHOR ID="n2-21">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><P>Articles.<HSEP>Value.</p><P>Wheat<HSEP>13,000,000 lbs<HSEP>$26,000,000</p><P>Gold and Silver<HSEP>26,000,000</p><P>Wool<HSEP>48,183,017 lbs<HSEP>8,450,000</p><P>Wine<HSEP>10,000,000 gallons<HSEP>3,000,000</p><P>Fruit Crop<HSEP>2,000,000</p><P>Barley Oats, Hay, etc<HSEP>5,000,000</p><P>Dairy Products<HSEP>5,000,000</p><P>Lumber<HSEP>5,000,000</p><P>Coal<HSEP>1,250,000</p><P>Quicksilver<HSEP>2,000,000</p><P>Cooper, etc<HSEP>250,000</p><P>Manufactures (value of labor added)<HSEP>41,000,000</p><P>Total<HSEP>$124,950,000</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-21">San Francisco Journal of Commerce, Jan. 12, 1876.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The following table shows the estimated production of gold and silver in California since 1848.  These figures can be only approximated, as large sums have been removed from the State of which no record can be obtained (S. F. Journal of Commerce):</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Year<HSEP>Amount.</p><P>1848<HSEP>$   5,000,000</p><P>1849<HSEP>23,000,000</p><P>1850<HSEP>59,000,000</p><P>1851<HSEP>60,000,000</p><P>1852<HSEP>59,000,000</p><P>1853<HSEP>68,000,000</p><P>1854<HSEP>64,000,000</p><P>1855<HSEP>58,000,000</p><P>1856<HSEP>63,000,000</p><P>1857<HSEP>64,000,000</p><P>1858<HSEP>59,000,000</p><P>1859<HSEP>59,000,000</p><P>1860<HSEP>52,000,000</p><P>1861<HSEP>50,000,000</p><P>1862<HSEP>51,500,000</p><P>1863<HSEP>50,000,000</p><P>1864<HSEP>35,000,000</p><P>1865<HSEP>35,020,000</p><P>1866<HSEP>26,000,000</p><P>1867<HSEP>25,000,000</p><P>1868<HSEP>22,000,000</p><P>1869<HSEP>21,000,000</p><P>1870<HSEP>25,800,000</p><P>1871<HSEP>25,850,000</p><P>1872<HSEP>21,450,000</p><P>1873<HSEP>20,000,000</p><P>1874<HSEP>26,000,000</p><P>1875<HSEP>26,000,000</p><P>Total<HSEP>$1,153,620,060</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>The following table shows the wheat yield for each successive year since 1855:<ANCHOR ID="n2-22">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><P>Year.<HSEP>Centals.</p><P>1855-56<HSEP>3,500,000</p><P>1856-57<HSEP>3,250,000</p><P>1857-58<HSEP>3,000,000</p><P>1858-59<HSEP>3,000,000</p><P>1859-60<HSEP>3,700,000</p><P>1860-61<HSEP>5,500,000</p><P>1861-62<HSEP>4,500,000</p><P>1862-63<HSEP>4,750,000</p><P>1863-64<HSEP>5,000,000</p><P>1864-65<HSEP>4,000,000</p><P>1865-66<HSEP>5,000,000</p><P>1866-67<HSEP>9,000,000</p><P>1867-68<HSEP>9,000,000</p><P>1868-69<HSEP>10,000,000</p><P>1869-70<HSEP>10,500,000</p><P>1870-71<HSEP>9,750,000</p><P>1871-72<HSEP>7,750,000</p><P>1872-73<HSEP>16,000,000</p><P>1873-74<HSEP>14,500,000</p><P>1874-75<HSEP>21,000,000</p><P>1875-76<HSEP>17,000,000</p><P>Total<HSEP>169,700,000</p><P>California previous to 1855<HSEP>500,000</p><P>Total<HSEP>170,200,000</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n2-22">San Francisco Journalof Commerce, Jan. 12, 1876.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>There has been exported from San Francisco in seventeen years, as shown in the following table, 248,668,590 lbs of wool, worth $52,822,018:</p> <P>Year.<HSEP>Pounds.<HSEP>Value.</p><P>1859<HSEP>2,378,050<HSEP>$  356,790</p><P>1860<HSEP>3,055,325<HSEP>   297,193</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>1861<HSEP>3,721,998<HSEP>507,271</p><P>1862<HSEP>5,990,300<HSEP>1,068,872</p><P>1863<HSEP>4,268,480<HSEP>1,225,415</p><P>1864<HSEP>5,935,670<HSEP>1,254,778</p><P>1865<HSEP>6,549,931<HSEP>1,334,425</p><P>1866<HSEP>4,662,629<HSEP>897,908</p><P>1867<HSEP>7,057,631<HSEP>1,143,571</p><P>1868<HSEP>13,225,181<HSEP>2,404,399</p><P>1869<HSEP>13,263,662<HSEP>2,370,065</p><P>1870<HSEP>19,399,209<HSEP>3,718,493</p><P>1871<HSEP>22,485,443<HSEP>6,748,824</p><P>1872<HSEP>24,578,980<HSEP>7,750,000</p><P>1873<HSEP>29,235,376<HSEP>6,430,352</p><P>1874<HSEP>34,678,308<HSEP>6,863,662</p><P>1875<HSEP>48,183,017<HSEP>8,450,000</p><P>Totals<HSEP>248,668,590<HSEP>$52,822,018</p><P>The total exports from San Francisco, reported since 1848, have been as follows:</p><P>Year.<HSEP>Value.</p><P>1848-50<HSEP>$  60,900,000</p><P>1851<HSEP>  45,989,000</p><P>1852<HSEP>  45,779,000</p><P>1853<HSEP>  54,968,000</p><P>1854<HSEP>  52,045,633</p><P>1855<HSEP>  45,161,731</p><P>1856<HSEP>  59,697,434</p><P>1857<HSEP>  48,967,692</p><P>1858<HSEP>  47,548,026</p><P>1859<HSEP>  47,640,462</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>1860<HSEP>  42,325,916</p><P>1861<HSEP>  40,676,758</p><P>1862<HSEP>  42,561,761</p><P>1863<HSEP>  46,071,920</p><P>1864<HSEP>  55,707,201</p><P>1865<HSEP>  44,426,172</p><P>1866<HSEP>  44,365,668</p><P>1867<HSEP>  40,671,797</p><P>1868<HSEP>  36,358,096</p><P>1869<HSEP>  37,287,114</p><P>1870<HSEP>  32,983,139</p><P>1871<HSEP>  17,253,346</p><P>1872<HSEP>  29,330,436</p><P>1873<HSEP>  24,715,125</p><P>1874<HSEP>  30,050,632</p><P>1875<HSEP>  36,765,637</p><P>Total<HSEP>$1,110,247,656</p><P>This of course does not include mail shipments, shipments East direct from the mines, nor treasure carried away by individuals.</p></DIV>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.<LB>DAYS AROUND SAN FRANCISCO.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P>ALMOST the first place which the tourist visits after his arrival in San Francisco is the Cliff House.  It is situated on a high rocky bluff a short distance south of Point Lobos,<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: the southern doorpost of the Golden Gate.  The distance of this house from the old City Hall, on the corner of Kearny and Washington streets, is called six and a half miles.  The Cliff House may be reached by three routes.  One of these is the old road that begins at the Mission and winds over the hills, affording many attractive views of the city, and the bay beyond, the Contra Costa Hills, and Mount Diablo towering in the remote east.  This road descends to the ocean beach, passing near Merced Lake--Laguna de la Merced--the largest lake in the county.  From the Ocean Side House to the Cliff House, a distance of some two and a half miles, the road follows the sandy beach.  As this route is quite long, and the latter part of the road is very heavy, but few follow it.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1"><P>Punta de los Lobos--Wolves' Point.  "The south head of the entrance into the Bay of San Francisco is formed by this point, 375 feet high." --Davidson's Report.  U.S. Coast Survey.</p><P>"The desolate neighborhood of Point Lobos was infested with numberless wolves in bygone days." --The Golden Gate.  James Linden. S.F. 1869.</p></NOTE>
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185.sgm:<P>Another route is by Point Lobos Avenue, a broad, well macadamized street, commencing at the western end of Geary street and continuing in a straight line to the ocean beach.  This was for many years the fashionable drive for San Franciscans.  Since the Golden Gate Park has been opened, and its serpentine drives to the beach completed, the Point Lobos Road has fallen into disuse.  By far the pleasantest drive to the Cliffs lies through the Golden Gate Park, from every point of which fine views of the city and adjacent country may be enjoyed.  As we drive down the long winding road across the waste of sand west of the city, on a clear day, we can plainly see the Farallones on the western horizon.</p><P>The Cliff House may be reached by street cars and omnibuses running along Point Lobos Avenue.</p><P>Saturday afternoon is, in San Francisco, a time of almost universal recreation.  The banks and more than half of the large wholesale houses close at noon.  During the afternoon streets leading the Golden Gate Park, as well as the park drives, are thronged with unbroken lines of buggies, phaetons, rockaways, coupe&acute;s, drags, dog-carts, and in fact almost every style of conveyance that the ingenuity of man has contrived.  Gay couples on horseback and energetic pedestrians are all moving toward the "Cliff."  Numerous four-in-hands appear among the motley throng, where Patrick is also seen with his spose and children going to the "Cliff" in his express wagon, which happens to be disengaged this afternoon.  As we ride along we see one millionaire after another, until the mind is confused with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:calculation of the many millions represented.  Young clerks with small salaries are the gayest of the throng, and obtrusively suggest the question, how can a young man with small wages afford to dress expensively, hire showy turn-outs, give costly suppers, and spend much money in other ways?  It would be perhaps unjust to hint any graver wrong than the prevailing extravagance of the age.  Yet, how fast young men live on small salaries, is one of the marvels of our time.</p><P>When we have enjoyed a pleasant morning drive and a breakfast at the "Cliff," we are ready to notice other interests which cluster around this locality.</p><P>Immediately north is the Golden Gate, and the sight of the incoming and outgoing vessels is worth the exertion of reaching this point.  To the south of the rocky bluff on which the Cliff House stands, the broad, low, sandy beach stretches for miles away.  On this beach the occasional fragment of a vessel suggests the story of shipwreck.  During a clear day the Farallone Islands, about twenty miles westward, are clearly seen, while at night the lighthouse that is located there sheds its ruddy flames from the western horizon.</p><P>The most prominent object of interest is the Seal Rocks.  These are a cluster of conical rocks projecting to a height of fifty feet above the surface of the water, at a short distance from the bluff on which the Cliff House stands.  These rocks derive their name from their being inhabited by the seals and sea lions which abound along the entire western coast of the American continent.  While we sit in the broad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:hotel porch and watch through field-glasses the movements of these interesting animals, protected here from destruction by law, we may read with interest the following extracts from that interesting work, "The Marine Mammals of the Northwestern Coast of North America," by Charles M. Scammon:</p><P>"Among the numerous species of marine mammalia found upon the Pacific Coast of North America, none excite more interest than the Sea Lion; even the valuable and almost domesticated Fur Seal of the Pribyloff group of islands fails to equal it in utility to the Aleutians, who depend upon it not only as a staple article of food, but obtain, by the sale of its silky skin, their foreign luxuries of every nature" (p. 124).</p><P>"The extreme length of the full-grown male Sea Lion of the north may be set down at sixteen feet from tip of nose to end of posterior flippers, and yield of oil at forty gallons; but it is seldom they are found measuring twelve feet from tip of nose to tip of tail, and the individual yield of oil throughout the season would not exceed ten gallons.  Its greatest circumference would not be over eight feet, and its weight about one thousand pounds.  Its head and neck are more elongated, and the latter is destitute of the mane which is characteristic of the Lion of the southern seas.  Its mouth is armed with strong, glistening, white teeth.  Its projecting upper lip is furnished, on each side, with strong, flexible whiskers, which are generally of a white, or yellowish-white color, some of which grow to the length of eighteen inches.  When the animal is either excited by curiosity or anger, its eyes are full of expression; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:and at such times they appear large, but when the creature is dozing, these members have quite the opposite appearance.  Its ears are cylindrical at the root, tapering to a point, are covered with short, fine hair, and lie nearly in a line with the body.  Its limbs, which are incased with a sort of thick shagreen, combine the triple functions of legs, feet, and fins, and are far better adapted to locomotion in the watery element; where, when excited, its movements are swift and graceful, while on the land, the creature's imposing, though awkward traveling, requires great effort.  Its body is covered with short, coarse, shining hair.  The color of the adult males is much diversified; individuals of the same rookery being quite black, with scattering hairs tipped with dull white, while others are of a reddish brown, dull gray, or of light gray above, darker below.  The adult female is not half the bulk of the male, and its color is a light brown.  One of the average size, taken at Santa Barbara Island, coast of California, in the spring of 1871, measured six feet four inches from tip of nose to tip of posterior flippers, and weighed one hundred and eighty-two pounds."</p><P>"Both males and females have a double coating of fat or blubber, lying between the skin and the flesh of the body.  These coatings are separated by a thin layer of muscular tissue.  The fat yields the oil of commerce, although inferior in quality to that of the Sea Elephant.  The young pups, or whelps, are of a slate or black color, and the yearlings of a chestnut brown.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>"The habits of the Sea Lion exhibit many striking features.  It not only dwells near the Arctic and Antarctic latitudes, but it basks upon the glittering sands under an equatorial sun.  On approaching an island, or point, occupied by a numerous herd, one first hears their long, plaintive howlings, as if in distress; but, when near them, the sounds become more varied, and deafening.  The old males roar so loudly as to drown the noise of the heaviest surf among the rocks and caverns; and the younger of both sexes, together with the `clapmatches,'<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: croak hoarsely, or send forth sounds like the bleating of sheep or the barking of dogs; in fact, their tumultuous utterances are beyond description.  A rookery of the matured animals presents a ferocious and defiant appearance; but usually, at the approach of man, they become alarmed, and, if not opposed in their escape, roll, tumble, and sometimes make fearful leaps, from high precipitous rocks, to hasten their flight.  Like all others of the seal tribe, they are gregarious, and gather in the largest numbers during the `pupping season,' which varies in different latitudes.  On the California coast it is from May to August, inclusive, and upon the shores of Alaska it is said to be from June to October; during which period the females bring forth their young, nurse them, associate with the valiant males, and both unite in the care of the little ones, keeping a wary guard, and teaching them, by their own parental actions, how to move over the broken, slimy, rock-bound shore, or upon the sandy, pebbly beaches, and to dive and gambol amid the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:surf and rolling ground-swells.  At first the pups manifest great aversion to the water, but soon, instinctively, become active and playful in the element; so, by the time the season is over, the juvenile creatures disappear with the greater portion of the old ones; only a few of the vast herd remaining at the favorite resorts throughout the year.  During the pupping season, both males and females, so far as we could ascertain, take but little, if any, food, particularly the males; though the females have been observed to leave their charges and go off, apparently in search of subsistence, but they do not venture far from their young ones.  That the Sea Lion can go without food for a long time is unquestionable.  One of the Superintendents of Woodward's Gardens informed me, that in numerous instances they had received Sea Lions into the aquarium, which did not eat a morsel of nourishment during a whole month, and appeared to suffer but little inconvenience from their long fast.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2">Name given females of Northern Fur Seal.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"As the time approaches for the annual assemblage, those returning or coming from abroad are seen near the shores, appearing wild and shy.  Soon after, however, the females gather upon the benches, cliffs, or rocks, when the battles among the old males begin for the supreme control of the harems; these struggles often lasting for days, the fight being kept up until one or both become exhausted, but is renewed again when sufficiently recuperated for another attack; and, really, the attitudes assumed, and the passes made at each other, equal the amplifications of a professional fencer.  The combat lasts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:until both become disabled, or one is driven from the ground, or perhaps both become so reduced that a third party, fresh from his winter migration, drives them from the coveted charge.  The vanquished animals then slink off to some retired spot, as if disgraced.  Nevertheless, at times, two or more will have charge of the same rookery; but, in such instances, frequent defiant growlings and petty battles occur.  So far as we have observed upon the Sea Lions of the California coast, there is but little attachment manifested between the sexes; indeed, much of the Turkish nature is apparent.  But the females show some affection for their offspring: yet, if alarmed when upon the land, they will instantly desert them, and take to the water.  The young cubs, on the other hand, are the most fractious and savage little creatures imaginable, especially if awakened from their nearly continuous sleeping."</p><P>Continuing his very interesting sketch, Capt. Scammon says:</p><P>"They live upon fish, mollusks, crustaceans and sea-fowls; always with the addition of a few pebbles or smooth stones, some of which are a pound in weight."</p><P>It is claimed by some that the Sea Lions at the entrance to the Golden Gate are responsible for the diminished fish supply in the Bay of San Francisco and its tributaries.  It is said that quite a large number of the salmon caught on the Sacramento River bear the scars where they have been bitten by their unwieldy enemies.  We are to consider, however, that the number of Sea Lions in this vicinity is, at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:least, probably no greater than it was before the law was passed that protects these monsters.  We are also inclined to think that the large amount of earthy matter, in suspension, continually brought down by the Sacramento from the mining districts, has much to do with diminishing the number of salmon in these waters.  Any one who witnesses the wholesale manner in which fish are drawn from the Bay of San Francisco; or any one who has an opportunity of noticing the number of tons of dried fish sent from this port to China by every steamer, will feel inclined to exonerate the Sea Lions in part, at least, from the charge brought against them.</p><P>Associated with the Sea Lions we find the Northern Fur Seal (Callorhinus ursinus-- <HI REND="italics">Gray</HI>
185.sgm:.)  I cannot better do this animal justice than by continuing to quote from Capt. Scammon's very valuable work:</p><P>"The Fur Seals have so wide a geographical range, extending nearly to the highest navigable latitudes in both the northern and southern hemispheres, and are found assembled in such countless numbers at their favorite resorts, that they become at once a source of great commercial wealth.***Captain Fanning--one of the noted sealing-masters in early times--distinguishes the different ages and sexes as follows: `Full-aged males, called wigs; the females, clapmatches; those not quite so old, bulls; all the half grown of both sexes, yearlings; the young of nearly a year old, called gray, or silver pups; and before their coats are changed to this shade, called black pups.'</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>"The color of the full-grown males, or `wigs,' is dark brown--with scattering hairs of white about the head, neck, and anterior portion of the body--and, in some instances, nearly approaches to black.  At a distance, it is difficult to distinguish between an old `wig' and a full-grown male Sea Lion of the California coast, the former being frequently found measuring nine feet from tip of nose to extremity of posterior flippers.**When in full flesh, the adult females weigh about eighty-five pounds.***The pups, when first born, are about one-third the length of the mother.<ANCHOR ID="n3-3">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: They are covered with a thick mat of coarse fur, which changes to a finer texture and lighter shade as the animals mature."***</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-3">Length of five female seals as given by Capt. Scammon, respectively in feet and inches: No. 1, 4-0; No. 2, 4-7; No. 3, 4-0; No. 4, 4-9; 5, 3-6</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"The flippers of the Fur Seal are destitute of hair, being covered with tough, black skin, similar to shagreen, which is very flexible about the terminations of their extremities; the side limbs are shaped much like the fins of the smaller Cetaceans; the posterior ones have each five distinct toes, or digits, and three nails, or claws, project from the upper sides, four inches or more from the tips, according to the size and age of the animal.  The tail is extremely short and pointed.  The ears are quite pointed also, slanting backward, and are covered with short, fine hair.***The number of whiskers on each side of the face may average twenty; they are of different shades, from blackish-brown to white, and frequently attain the length of seven inches.  The eyes are invariably dark and glistening, and have a human-like expression.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>"The intrinsic value of the animal does not depend upon the price of the skin alone; for the layer of fat adhering to it yields the oil of commerce, and supplies light and heat to the natives in their dismal winter quarters.  The flesh, likewise, affords them a staple article of food."*****</p><P>"Some idea may be had of their numbers in former years, when on the Island of Masafuero, on the coast of Chili (which is not over twenty-five miles in circumference), the American ship <HI REND="italics">Betsey</HI>
185.sgm:, under the command of Captain Fanning, in the year 1798, obtained a full cargo of choice skins.  It was estimated at the time that there were left on the island at least five hundred thousand seals.  Subsequently, there were taken from the island but little short of one million skins."</p><P>The cemeteries of San Francisco are mostly situated west of the city, and are passed on the way to the Cliff House.  To many these "cities of the dead" possess much interest.  The tourist who has the time seldom leaves San Francisco without visiting Laurel Hill Cemetery (formerly called Lone Mountain Cemetery, from the fact of its location near the foot of a solitary hill).  Here are the finest specimens of mausolean architecture in the State.  Ornamental trees of many varieties combine to render the spot picturesque.  At the western end of the enclosure is the Chinese Cemetery, which is an interesting locality.</p><P>The four principal cemeteries of San Francisco surround Lone Mountain, lying but a short distance from its base, and all within a circle described from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:its apex with a radius of a mile.  On the north, as we have noticed, is Laurel Hill Cemetery.  On the east of the mountain is Calvary Cemetery.  This burial ground is the property of the Roman Catholic Church, and contains several beautiful private vaults.  On the southern slope of Lone Mountain is an irregular cemetery belonging to the Free Masons; while on the west side is the Odd Fellows' necropolis.  The City Cemetery is on the headland, back of Point Lobos, lying along the southern entrance of the Golden Gate.  The Hebrew Cemetery is near the Mission.  At the old Mission Church (Mission Dolores) is the old Spanish burial ground.</p><P>Of these spots, how true are the poet's words:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Here come the argosies<LB>Blown by each idle breeze,<LB>To and fro shifting;<LB>Drifting forever here<LB>Barks that for many a year<LB>Braved wind and weather;<LB>Shallops but yesterday<LB>Launched on yon shining bay,--<LB>Drawn all together."</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>In describing the ride to the Cliff House, we have mentioned the Golden Gate Park.  San Francisco has been more backward than many other cities in providing a place where her citizens can enjoy the hours of relaxation amid counterfeit rural scenes.  In the early building of the city there was no thought of parks, drives, fountains,architectural monuments, and the numerous similar charms of Eastern cities.  The majority of those who came to San Francisco, in its infancy, intended to be mere sojourners.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:came to reap a golden harvest, and intended to carry the fruits of their industry away.  But the attractions of climate exercised a strong influence over them, and the few months of their intended stay lengthened into years.  They invested their earnings permanently here and built homes in the sunset land.  In the rapidly-enlarging city of San Francisco land was considered too valuable to be set aside for mere purposes of recreation and enjoyment.</p><P>On April 4th, 1870, and Act which had passed the Legislature of the State of California was approved by the Governor.  This was entitled "An Act to provide for the Improvement of Public Parks in the City of San Francisco."<ANCHOR ID="n3-4">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: This Act provided that a Board of Park Commissioners should be appointed by the Governor of the State.  Their term of office was to four years.  The Act further provided that this Board should "have full and exclusive power to govern, manage and direct these Parks."  For these services the Commissioners were to receive no compensation, except the earnest thanks of the people.  Well might each, with Hamlet exclaim, "Of the cameleon's dish; I eat the air."  The maximum amounts to be expended by the Park Commissioners, according to the provision of the Act creating their office, were--for the first year, $100,000; for the second year, $75,000; and for the next three years, $50,000 per annum.  The Commissioners were authorzed to issue bonds, bearing six per cent., for the creation of a "Park Improvement Fund," the Park <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:lands being "pledged as security for the redemption of said bonds."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-4">Statutes of California, 1869-70.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The lands described in this statute are two parcels west of the densely settled portions of the city, and were each designated on the official map by the word "Park."  The larger one of these tracts, which in the Act was called "Golden Gate Park," is a parallelogram, about three miles long and half a mile wide.  This Park is reached by an avenue 275 feet wide and 3,834 feet long.  The area of the Park is about 1,019 acres.  The eastern portion consists of rolling ground, which was covered by a compact growth of shrubby oaks.  The western end of the Park is a waste of drifting sea sand of 740 acres.  Much has been done to beautify and utilize this unattractive district.  Several roads have been constructed through it, and others are contemplated.  These highways have been macadamized and brought into excellent driving condition.  The hills at the eastern end of the reservation have received much care. The stunted oaks have been trimmed and a large number of other trees have been set out in the openings.</p><P>Pines with <HI REND="italics">eucalypti</HI>
185.sgm: and other trees of foreign origin already strikingly diversify the landscape.  Beautiful lawns and sequestered arlors exhibit the combined attractions of art and nature.  The western wastes have been in a great measure reclaimed.  Barley and lupine seed were sown on these drifting sands; the barley soon sprouted under the autumnal rains, and presently the downs were clothed with green; the young plants of the lupine grew more slowly, but, long before the summer winds swept in from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:ocean, a healthy growth of vegetation very effectually checked the drifting of the sands.  Trees have since been planted on these barren downs, and it is probable that the time is not far distant when a thrifty young forest will extend along all the Park drives.</p><P>The second piece of land mentioned in the legislative Act, previously quoted, is Buena Vista Park, an irregular plat 36.22 acres in extent.<ANCHOR ID="n3-5">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: It includes the cluster of high hills a short distance south of the entrance to the avenue of the Golden Gate Park.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-5">Municipal Reports of San Francisco, 1872-73, pp. 519, 520.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>At the southern boundary of the "Presidio Reservation," and partly within it, lies Mountain Lake, an irregular sheet of water, about a mile in circumference.  On the border of this lake is located the Mountain Lake Public Square, which has an area of 19.93 acres.<ANCHOR ID="n3-6">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-6">Municipal Reports of San Francisco, 1872-3, pp. 524, 525.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>There are several "Squares" in different parts of San Francisco.  The most noted of these is Portsmouth Square, with an area of 275 feet by 204 feet 2 inches.  July 8th, 1846,<ANCHOR ID="n3-7">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "Captain Montgomery, of the United States sloop-of-war <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
185.sgm:, then lying in the bay," at the command of Commodore Sloat, raised the American flag "in the plaza, or public square of Yerba Buena."  Captain Montgomery was "accompanied by a party of seventy sailors and marines," and a salute of twenty-one guns from the <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
185.sgm: proclaimed the occupation of Northern California by the United States.  At Monterey, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Commodore Sloat raised the national flag on the same day.  On the 10th of July following, the same ceremony was performed at Sonoma, and soon after the Stars and Stripes floated over every settlement in the northern portion of the State.  The plaza on which the American flag was first raised in San Francisco<ANCHOR ID="n3-8">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: was named in honor of the sloop-or-war <HI REND="italics">Portsmount</HI>
185.sgm:, and at the same time Montgomery street received its name.  To the old Californian many associations cluster around this small open space, almost lost among crowded buildings, and he still calls it <HI REND="italics">the plaza</HI>
185.sgm:.  By its side stood the adobe offices of the Alcalde and other early municipal dignitaries.  Here stood the first Custom House, the Parker House, and later the Jenny Lind Theater (sold in 1852, for $200,000, to the municipality for a City Hall, which purpose, after being refitted, it has since served).  Here were the gambling saloons, in which many a miner, about to leave California for the Eastern States, lost the means of returning home.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-7">Annals of San Francisco, p. 185</NOTE>
185.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-8">Mention has previously been made of the raising of this flag on the first house in Yerva Buena, July 4th, 1836.  It was then raised with the Mexican flag, and now superceded the latter.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>A few public spirited individuals have very recently purchased and donated to the city a tract, 275 feet square, on the summit of Telegraph Hill, for a perpetual park.  This elevation is dear to every Californian.  Early in 1849,<ANCHOR ID="n3-9">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: a signal station was here erected, and a well understood system of signals conveyed to the inhabitants the intelligence of an approaching vessel.  Afterward the range of observation was extended by the construction of an outer station <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:on Point Lobos, at a later date, September 22d, 1853, an electric telegraph (the first in California) was opened between these two stations.  How eagerly have many of the Argonauts of '49 watched for the signal on this hill which should indicate the entrance of another steamer into port.  And then how spedily did the anxious exile fall into the long line of equally eager inquirers for letters at "the little Post Office, half way up the hill," which "was almost hidden from sight by the crowds that clustered around it."<ANCHOR ID="n3-10">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-9">Annuals of San Francisco, p. 465.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-10">El Dorado, Bayard Taylor, Household Edition, N.Y., 1873, p. 61.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>To many the thought of Telegraph Hill recalls the frightful conflagrations<ANCHOR ID="n3-11">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: which during about eighteen months successively reduced the business and most densely populated parts of the city to ashes, although new buildings arose before the embers of those destroyed had become cold.  Yes, dear will Telegraph Hill ever be to the "old Californian," and he will gladly clim its steep flanks, arm in arm with the new comer, and recount the story of early Californian life, when they have suffciently admired the extensive view from its summit.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-11"><P>The extensive fires which devasted the young city in its early days were as follows:</p><P>December 24th, 1849--First great fire (although some buildings had previously been burned).  More than $1,000,000 worth of property was then destroyed.</p><P>May 4th, 1850--Second great fire.  Three blocks of buildings destroyed.  Loss $4,000,000.</p><P>June 14th, 1850--Third great fire.  The ravages of the flames exceeded those of the two previous conflagrations.  Loss $5,000,000.</p><P>September 17th, 1850--Fourth great fire.  An extensive area of comparatively inexpensive buildings was laid desolate.  The loss was from $250,000 to $500,000.</p><P>December 14th, 1850--Several stores and stocks of merchandise were destroyed on Sacramento street, below Montgomery.  Loss, $1,000,000.  This is not usually classed among the great fires of early San Francisco.</p></NOTE>
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185.sgm:<P>San Francisco possesses but one "Central Park."  In various districts of the city are located many so called "gardens," where a copious supply of unwholesome liquors is sold and a floor for dancing gives opportunity for that amusement.  Woodward's Gardens, containing about six acres, are situated on the west side of Mission street, between Thirteenth and Fourteenth.  They are reached by means of street cars.  The admission fee to the grounds is twenty-five cents, and admits the visitor to all that is to be seen.  Once within the high fence, and strolling among the choice trees dotting the grounds, that are entirely screened from the wind, one observes many interesting objects.</p><P>An extensive Museum, occupying the building, formerly the residence of Mr. R. B. Woodward, the proprietor, fronts the main entrance.  This building contains a large and valuable collection of zoological specimens from all parts of the world.  Here the naturalist will find abundant material for study, while the mineralogist will discover in an extensive collection of Japanese minerals much that will interest him.<ANCHOR ID="n3-12">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-12"><P>May 4th, 1851--Fifth great fire.  Eighteen entire blocks and portions of six others were destroyed.  In this area less than twenty buildings were saved.  The length of the burnt district was three-quarters of a mile, and its width half a mile.  Loss, $10,000,000 to $12,000,000.</p><P>June 22nd, 1851--Sixth great fire.  Ten blocks and parts of six others destroyed.  Estimated loss, $3,000,000.</p><P>--A bridged from Annals of San Francisco.</p></NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Adjoining the Museum is an extended series of Conservatories.  In these fairy-like apartments beautiful exotics greet the visitor with sweet perfume, while in one room a wilderness of ferns challenges observation.  They are of numerous varieties and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:from widely separated localities.  Connected with the largest Conservatory, through which the visitor enters, is a small but select Art Gallery, reached through a vestibule, which is frescoed in imitation of Pompeian art.  In this ante-room the numismatist will find objects of great interest.</p><P>Near the Conservatories are two large ponds, with rock work at the center of each.  Here numerous seals and sea lions live.  Here is an opportunity for near observation of their strange habits.  Various water fowl live along a small stream running through the grounds.</p><P>A feature of great interest to the visitor is the Marine Aquarium.  This is not as complete as a few of the more magnificent European ones, but, nevertheless, is noted as being, at the present time, the largest aquarium in this country.  Several tanks contain the inhabitants of salt and fresh water respectively, and give rare opportunities to watch the antics of those little-known members of the animal kingdom.  A few tanks contain handsome brook trout, and as the visitor watches these speckled beauties securely swimming among the rock-work, a thrill of excitement recalls the pleasures which the angler feels by the still pool in the woods where tall pines shut out the sunlight.  Over the Aquarium is a hall, the walls of which are covered with large-sized photographs of California scenery, affording much pleasure either to him who has seen the original landscapes or to him who has those delights yet in anticipation.</p><P>A tunnel under Fourteenth street conducts us to the Zoological Gardens.  Here are the greater <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:number of the animals.  In this enclosure are a large bear pit and yards for camels, deer, buffaloes and other similar quadrupeds.  Many varieties of domestic fowls form interesting groups, while the heterogeneous happy families and the out-door gymnasium are sources of delight to the younger visitors.</p><P>Re-entering the main grounds, we ascend by a winding path, along which numerous rustic seats are placed, and, on the summit of a hill, find a pavilion one hundred and fifty feet long, one hundred and thirty feet wide, and fifty feet high.  It will seat six thousand persons, while in the center of the hall a smooth, open floor, one hundred and ten by ninety feet, is the scene of numerous acrobatic feats, as well as an arena for dances and skating tournaments.</p><P>A part of this building is devoted to the purposes of a restaurant, while tables among the native trees on the hilly slopes offer accommodation to those who prefer to bring lunch with them.</p><P>Altogether Woodward's Gardens afford much pleasure and profit to one who spends even a short time there.  They also are a credit to the private citizen whose wealth has constructed them.</p><P>Across the street from the main entrance to Woodward's Gardens, Messrs. Miller, Sievers &amp; Co. have opened an Exotic Garden.  Admission to these very extensive greenhouses is free, and the admirer of plants will gladly avail himself of this opportunity to see the many rare and beautiful specimens of the vegetable kingdom growing there.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Numerous nurseries of plants in different parts of the city will interest the horticulturist, and will repay him for the time employed in visiting them.</p><P>A few blocks beyond Woodward's Gardens is the old Church of Mission Dolores.  This building has been partly rebuilt, and its front differs from that of the original church.  The interior has also been somewhat altered, but still the painting on the walls and many relics of early days recall the times of the early Fathers.  Around the old Church sleep many of those who lived here in former times, and as we thread our way among the dilapidated tombstones and falling fences, we notice many holy texts "that teach the rustic moralist to die."  One of the epitaphs deserves, perhaps, to be chronicled here:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"All you that now are standing by,<LB>As you are now, so once was I,<LB>As I am now, so you must be,<LB>Therefore, prepare to follow me."</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>A few old adobe buildings, with their red tiled roofs, still cluster around the antiquated Church and contrast strangely with more modern surroundings.  The Spanish scholar will be much interested in the old records of the Church.  One to whom such a treasure is accessible will spend much pleasant time in poring over these quaint and curious volumes.</p><P>Five miles south-east from the old City Hall, on the shores of the bay, is Hunter's Point.  At this place is a capacious stone Dry Dock, dug out of the solid rock.  It is 421 feet long, 120 feet wide at the top, and 60 feet wide at the bottom.  It is sunk 22 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:feet below mean high tide.  One can here examine the large China steamers as they lie in the dock for repairs.  Near by is a floating dock.  The cost of the two docks was $2,000,000.  This point may be reached by taking the street cars which run to the Potrero, and by then making use of a light wagon that runs from the Potrero to the docks.</p><P>At Clark's Point other floating docks are to be seen.</p><P>The tourist will enjoy a forenoon spent at the United States Branch Mint, on Fifth street near Market.  Here he will have abundant opportunities of observing the <HI REND="italics">modus operandi</HI>
185.sgm: of money making.  The massive and costly machinery will distract his attention even from the glittering coin.  In early days, before the establishment of a Branch Mint in this city, several private mints were opened, and did considerable business in providing a circulating medium easier to handle than the then common currency of gold dust.  This dust was, in the early days of Californian history, weighed out in payment for value received.</p><P>The hotels of San Francisco scarcely come within the province of this work.  Yet, a few words in regard to the principal ones may not be considered out of place.  Much might be written relating to the old caravansaries which formerly were open to the traveling public.  Many interesting incidents took place there, which will not now engage our attention.</p><P>The Palace Hotel takes the first place on the list, being one of the largest and best appointed buildings of the kind in the world.  The reading public has been treated, <HI REND="italics">ad nauseum</HI>
185.sgm:, to descriptions of this hotel.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Yet as some may wish to refresh the memory in regard to the more important details of construction, we will state a few facts relating to the building, using, as authority, the survey made in order to obtain insurance thereon.</p><P>The building occupies an entire block--344 by 265 feet--bounded by New Montgomery, Market, Annie and Jessie streets.  It is seven stories high, with an <HI REND="italics">entresol</HI>
185.sgm: on the New Montgomery street front.</p><P>The height of the various stories is as follows:</p><P>First story<HSEP>27 feet 3 inches.</p><P>Second  "<HSEP>15  " 9  "</p><P>Third  "<HSEP>14  " 7  "</p><P>Fourth  "<HSEP>14  " 0  "</p><P>Fifth  "<HSEP>13  " 6  "</p><P>Sixth  "<HSEP>13  " 9  "</p><P>Seventh  "<HSEP>16  " 6  "</p><P>The base of the exterior foundation wall is 12 feet wide, while the bases of foundation of the interior walls vary from 6 to 12 feet in width.  "The foundation walls, at their base, are built with inverted arches.  All exterior, interior and partition walls, at every five feet, commencing from the bottom of the foundation, are banded together with bars of iron, forming, as it were, a perfect iron basket-work filled with brick.  The quantity of iron so used increases at every story towards the roof, and in the upper story the iron bands are only two feet apart."</p><P>The entire hotel was constructed "by the day," so that its thoroughness is thereby secured.  An idea of the magnitude of the building may be formed, when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:it is remebered that, in its construction, 24,660,596 hard bricks, 28,393 barrels of cement, and 22,160 barrels of lime were used.</p><P>The building is admirably arranged for protection against fire.  The roof is covered with tin, through which all the brick partitions extend.  The partitions are so constructed that, if one room takes fire it cannot communicate the flames to others.  Four Artesian wells, with a capacity of 28,000 gallons per hour; together with the City Water Works supply a large reservoir, (107 by 64 feet and 20 feet deep) in the basement, which has a capacity of 630,000 gallons.  On the roof are seven tanks, constructed of boiler iron, with an aggregate capacity of 128,000 gallons, which supply the rooms in the hotel with water.  Several steam pumps, of sufficient size for the work demanded, are used in pumping the water from the wells to the tanks and are also intended for throwing water in case of fire.  An extensive fire-alarm communicates from every room in the building with the general office, and registers any unusual heat.  "It is the opinion of the Chief Engineer of the San Francisco Fire Department, that with the three large steam fire pumps always maintained in working order; keeping a constant pressure of 140 pounds on the water mains, together with all the extraordinary precautions and most complete fire apparatus ever introduced into any building on the continent, it is an utter impossibility to burn the building, or any adjacent property."</p><P>This architectural masterpiece cost, in construction, nearly $3,000,000.  To the architect, as well as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:sight-seer, this building is of great interest.  Its solid construction, complete equipment, and elegant appointments are very creditable to all who were instrumental in its building.  It stands to-day a grand monument to the energetic and public-spirited gentleman--the late William C. Ralston--who projected the enterprise and brought it to a successful issue.</p><P>Next to the Palace, the best known hotel in the city is the Grand, situated immediately opposite, on the east line of New Montgomery street.  The building is three full stories and a mansard in height.  It fronts for 205 feet on Market street, and for 325 feet on New Montgomery street.  This hotel contains about four hundred rooms, and by many is preferred to the more imposing structure opposite.</p><P>The Lick House fronts on Montgomery and Sutter streets.  This is not as large as the neighboring hotels just mentioned, and boasts of less external ornament.  This is rather a house for families than for travelers.</p><P>On the other side of Montgomery street, extending from Sutter to Bush streets, is the Occidental Hotel, which is also well known and extensively patronized.</p><P>In the same block, on the corner of Bush and Sansome streets, is the Cosmopolitan, frequented by business-men, from interior towns, who visit San Francisco for the purposes of trade.</p><P>A large hotel, on the corner of Powell and Market streets, is at present in course of construction, and many others may be begun and completed within a few months.</p><P>In a work of this class it would be impossible to give more space to the subject of hotels.  Further <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:information in this regard may be gathered from the City Directories, the Traveling Guides, and the regular advertisements in the daily papers, which can inform the stranger in such matters much more accurately and thoroughly than a note-book like the present.</p><P>San Francisco has no lack of Places of Amusement.  Several theaters of the first order are open together with a multitude of less reputable places of entertainment.  The San Franciscans are entertained, to quote the words of Polonius, by "The best actors in the world, either for tragedy, comedy, history, pastoral, pastoral-comical, historical-pastoral, tragical-historical, tragical-comical-historical-pastoral, scene individable, or poem unlimited."  A reference to the daily papers will inform the tourist where he can spend his evenings pleasantly.</p><P>There are, however, two theaters which the tourist should visit.  These are on Jackson street between Kearny and Dupont; one on the north, and one on the south side of the street.  The actors in these theaters are Chinese and the plays which sometimes require several weeks for representation are exclusively Oriental, and frequently include the events of a dynasty of several hundred years.  The strange appointments of the stage, the costumes and gestures of the performers, and their wonderful acrobatic feats, well repay the visitor for the annoyance occasioned by the incessant din of gongs which accompanies the greater part of the performance.  There is no danger in attending these places of amusement.  If ladies are among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:visitors, it is better for one of the gentlemen of the party to engage a private-box during the day, by which only a small additional expense is incurred.</p><P>The stage is devoid of scenery beyond a few scrolls that are hung against the wall.  The orchestra is at the back of the stage in an alcove, each side of which is an ordinary door-way over which hangs a red curtain, that the performers move aside as they enter or leave the stage.  At the sides of the stage stand the large trunks in which the actors' wardrobes are kept.  A Saratoga trunk is insignificant beside them.  By these stand small tables and chairs where some of the Chinese players are lounging.  During the performance one of these rectangular tables, about three feet long and one and a half feet wide, is placed in the middle of the stage directly in front of the musicians.  Beside this table one or more chairs are placed.  These are substantially made of thick boards.  The shifting of "property" is all done by one or more Chinamen, in full sight of the audience.  In fact, if the expression may be allowed, every-thing is done "above board."  During the play when an actor commits suicide, or is murdered, he lies perfectly still for a moment or two to impart to the spectators the conception that the vital spark has fled, and then he jumps up and runs off the stage.  We are reminded, in witnessing such a scene, of the fact that after the culmination of the tragedy, the Hamlet or Richard of our own theaters comes smiling before the curtain, at a summons from the audience.  The costumes of the actors are interesting and the remarkable association of colors in these dresses delights the artist.  But the play is not all.  There is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:something more to be seen than the wooing of an Oriental Juliet, or the mock battles in which one is a match for ten thousand.  Acrobatic feats are a very striking feature of the performance.  All the actors are males and by long study have gained the power of counterfeiting a woman's voice.</p><P>The Chinese Temples, or Joss Houses, should by all means be visited.  The chief one is on Clay street, opposite Portsmouth Square; it may be entered by any one unattended.  If any visitor should be so barbarous as to injure the furniture or ornaments of the temple, a Chinaman, who is otherwise always invisible, will politely usher him down the two long flights of stairs to the street.  This room contains some magnificent specimens of Chinese carved work overlaid with gold, as well as beautiful banners of silk, embroidered with figures of dragons and gods in parti-colored silk and gold and silver threads.  Elegant specimens of bronze ware also stand on tables in front of the main altar.  From these bronzes numerous sticks of incense send up a cloud, fragrant to the Oriental sense.  It is also supposed to propitiate the god who, made of paper and elegantly attired, sits in state on a richly carved altar.  Any person who will conduct himself in this temple as he would in churches of a faith less strange can gain a very desirable acquaintance with Chinese carving, bronzes, and other tokens of Chinese art.</p><P>A detective may be obtained who will take gentlemen, desiring the interesting but somewhat unpleasant visit, through parts of the Chinese quarter which they could not otherwise see.  The Chinese quarter is situated in the heart of the city, on Sacramento, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Washington, Jackson and Dupont streets; and for the area of a few blocks the city is a veritable counterpart of China.</p><P>The Churches of San Francisco will afford an opportunity to all to attend the services to which they have been accustomed.</p><P>Educational and municipal institutions have all necessary appointments.  It is not our province to give information in regard to such matters.  The limits of this volume forbid such a design.</p><P>Reference to the City Directories will furnish much information in regard to the location of various literary, scientific, and benevolent institutions.  The intelligent traveler is also always welcomed at the numerous manufactories of the city, and should he desire to witness the fabrication of different products, every courtesy will be extended to him.</p><P>San Francisco possesses several large and valuable libraries, at the head of which stands the Mercantile library.  The collection of books belonging to the Order of Odd Fellows is next in extent.  To this library all members of the Order, and their families, have access.  The Mechanics' Institute library stands third, and this like the Mercantile is an institution by subscription.  The California Academy of Sciences, to whose rooms all visitors are welcome, possesses valuable scientific works.  The California Pioneers own a large number of rare historical volumes; and other societies have books more or less numerous and valuable.  Of private libraries we may only mention that of Mr. H. H. Bancroft, which contains about 16,000 volumes relating to the Pacific Coast alone.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV<LB>INTO THE HEART OF THE FOOT-HILLS.<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I put aside the forms of men,<LB>And shun the world's consuming care;<LB>Come green and honest hills again!<LB>For ye are free and fair."</HI>
185.sgm:<P>IT should be explained that, when the author made his last trip over this route, passengers left San Francisco in the morning, dined at Lathrop, and reached Murphy's about eight o'clock in the evening.  This arrangement has since been changed, as will be seen by the Appendix.  It has been thought expedient to describe the trip as formerly made, in order that the matter might be more conveniently introduced, especially as the time of departure from San Francisco, as well as the places at which the tourist spends the nights, are frequently changed.</p><P>The last morning of May had arrived and many tourists had taken their departure from the city and others were preparing to follow.  As far as Stockton we were to travel in company with our friends bound overland to the East.  Stepping on board the Oakland ferry boat the journey was begun.</p><P>No finer morning for starting on a pleasure trip could have been desired.  No fog obscured the pleasing and extensive view.  A gentle breeze fanned our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:cheeks and roused the tiny wavelets that broke on the rocky shores of Goat Island with a gentle murmur.  Looking back at the city sparkling on the hillsides in the welcome morning sunshine we obtained what is probably the best view that it presents.  In the foreground lay the convex crescent of wharves at which were moored vessels from every port of the world.  Beyond these the eye glanced over long warehouses and streets of stores, behind which rose Telegraph hill.  To the south we saw long rows of black foundries and machine shops.  The several hills over which the city is rapidly advancing stretched away in the background.  Beyond South San Francisco rose the San Bruno Mountains, treeless but covered with verdure.  As other ridges rise in the south and their elevation becomes greater the distinguishing tree of the Coast Ranges, the red-wood ( <HI REND="italics">Sequoia sempervirens</HI>
185.sgm: ), twin brother of the mammoth tree, makes its appearance, at first in straggling clumps but farther on forming dense forests.</p><P>Extending between these hills and the spur of the Monte Diablo range usually called the Contra Costa Hills, for a distance of about fifty miles to the south lies the Bay of San Francisco, the ripples that stir its surface glistening in the morning sunlight.  The borders of the bay are mostly low marsh lands.  These districts further to the south are bordered by the broad and fertile Santa Clara Valley, and on the east and west by two narrow strips of agricultural land that extend from this valley, the one to San Pablo Bay and the other to the "City of the Golden Gate."</p><P>To the left of the boat rises Goat Island, containing about three hundred and fifty acres, on which we see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:the barracks of the United States troops.  Beyond Goat Island (Yerba Buena) is the rock Alcatraz surmounted by the red-brick fort and white light-house around which cluster the numerous buildings used by officers and soldiers.  To the west we see the Golden Gate<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: with the fort on one side and abrupt mountain walls on the other.  Beyond, in Marin County, appears the group of mountains, so picturesque to the gazer and enchanting to the rambler, among which Tamalpais, the culminating peak of the group, lifts his dark gray summit.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">Named "Chrysopaloe," or Golden Gate, by Col. Fremont in the "Geographical Memoir of California" (1848).  Named on account of the commercial advantages of the bay, before gold was discovered.  Had he known of the deposits soon to be found, he could not have named it more appropriately.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>In front of the boat in the immediate foreground appears the long wharf which the Central Pacific Railroad Company has constructed to reach deep water.  Nestling among the <HI REND="italics">encinals</HI>
185.sgm: (oak groves) along the shore we notice Oakland and further south Alameda almost hidden among the oaks ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus agrifolia</HI>
185.sgm: ).  North of Oakland, at the base of the Contra Costa Hills, which form a barrier to the view in this direction, stand the two buildings of the State University facing the Golden Gate.</p><P>While we have been admiring the view our point of observation has been steadily moving forward, so that we have now reached the extremity of the "Long Wharf" and prepare to disembark.</p><P>We find the train waiting, and a few moments suffice to obtain seats and compose ourselves for the ride.  For more than a mile we traverse this long <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:wharf, and in doing so see many groups of men and boys fishing from the piles.  Reaching land, we ride through the outskirts of Oakland, traversing streets that, with oaks scattered through them, look like country lanes.  Pursuing our course, we notice little orchards and grain fields, where farmers are cutting wheat and barley.  At a small station on the left, named Decota, is a fine orchard of the Australian Gum tree ( <HI REND="italics">Eucalyptus</HI>
185.sgm: ), planted here by the Decota Land Company.  On the other side of the road extends a broad field of California mustard--a golden sea rippling in the breeze.  Our road leads us through similar scenes until we reach Niles, twenty-nine miles from San Francisco.  At this place the road turns from the plain, which has an average width of five miles, and we enter by a narrow pass the Livermore Valley.  Through this defile the Alameda Creek, at this season a broad shallow stream, winds toward the bay.  Its banks are overhung with blooming alders and buckeye trees.  The steep hillsides are dry, and the grass looks as if a blighting wind had swept over it.  The dry season of California has begun here.  In a few steep gullies an occasional yellow or crimson <HI REND="italics">mimulus</HI>
185.sgm:, or bright blue lupine, amid a bed of green grass, adds a pleasing variety to the view.</p><P>After winding for twelve miles among these hills, we arrive at Pleasanton, in the border of the Livermore Valley.  On our left towers the mountain from which all the ridges around take their name, Monte Diablo.  We have traversed one of its spurs--the Contra Costa Hills--and must cross another before entering the San Joaquin Valley.  The ascent of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:ridge is very steep and the slackening of speed is perceptible, although two massive engines drag the long train.  This is Livermore Pass, the lowest in the Mount Diablo range (altitude 686 feet).  Our road lies beneath the summit, through the first tunnel on the Central Pacific Railroad, and on emerging from the darkness, we obtain a fine view of the broad Valley of the San Joaquin.  On the hill-sides the ground is perfectly honey-combed with squirrel holes.</p><P>Entering the large valley, we find it at this season quite dry, although the river which we shall presently cross is higher than usual.  In the middle of this great valley the view is magnificent.  About twenty or thirty miles from us on either hand a continuous mountain wall hems in the valley, which extends north and south much farther than the eye can reach.  The barrier on the east is hazy and indistinct, and its upper portion resembles an enormously broad white and irregular ribbon lying against the sky.  This range, which appears to be only one ridge, is, in fact, formed of many parallel ones of complicated shapes and grand dimensions.  These several ridges are not less than seventy miles in breadth.  On the west the view is equally fine, the culminating masses of the Diablo Range surrounded by their spurs forming a series of ridges as peculiar as those on the opposite side of the valley.  Fading away in the south and lost in the mass of mountains nearer the ocean, the Diablo Range aids in forming the mountainous belt forty miles wide, which extends along the greater part of western California, and is popularly known as the Coast Range.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Eighty miles from San Francisco we cross the San Joaquin River, which is, at this season, quite high.  On either side we see low, marshy land.  To cross this a trestle-work several miles long has been constructed.  At times the water overflows, and without this extensive fabric travel would frequently be interrupted at this point.  The bridge and trestle-work are both built on piles driven into the marsh lands.  Soon after reaching <HI REND="italics">dry</HI>
185.sgm: land, we arrive at Lathrop, eighty-one miles from our point of departure.  Here we dine.  Permit me to give a word of advice to those who may travel in California.  Always eat when you get a chance, whether hungry or not, for there is no telling when you may have another opportunity.</p><P>Lathrop is the point of departure for those that visit Yosemite by the Merced route.  A ride of ten miles brings us to Stockton.  We notice as we advance that the heat increases to an uncomfortable degree.</p><P>At Stockton we leave the Overland train and enter the cars of the Stockton and Copperopolis Railroad.  Passing out of the city, we travel directly east for about thirty miles to Milton.  For the first few miles the ride is through a portion of the valley that presents a very park-like appearance.  The ground is nearly level, and at intervals appear beautiful oaks, in picturesque solitude, or in small groups.  These trees attract our attention by their fine masses of foliage, in which a great variety of birds find homes.  Leaving the oaks, we emerge at Peter's upon a dry and increasingly undulating plain that becomes more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:broken the further we proceed until the rolling land, which takes the place of the plain, gives way itself to the more elevated foot-hills, that are in turn succeeded by the many parallel ridges which make up that grand range, the Sierra Nevada.</p><P>The rolling land materially differs from the plain we have left.  There the soil was fertile, the oaks thrifty, and beneath these a fine crop of grain was waving its yellow spikes.  Here the soil is composed almost entirely of small pebbles, which in the general erosion of the western slope of the Sierra, on account of their greater weight, did not advance as far as the fine particles of soil, and, consequently, remain nearer their points of departure.  Nothing grows here, save a sparse covering of stunted grass, upon the seeds of which countless numbers of ground birds subsist.  On this land, useless as it may seem, large droves of sheep are pastured during a part of the year.  Along the road we notice the rude shanties in which the herders live, while near at hand are the <HI REND="italics">corrals</HI>
185.sgm: where the sheep are gathered.</p><P>At Milton we are but three miles from the base of the foot-hills, or, as this particular ridge is called, the Gopher Hills.  Stepping from the cars and entering a stage, we soon traverse this space.</p><P>The Gopher Hills, a well defined and continuous range, the summits of which are about 1,400 feet above sea level, form an important feature in the topography of this district.  Running nearly parallel with this ridge, and about six miles north-east, is another range called Bear Mountain, about 2,000 feet high.  At its south-western base lies Copperopolis, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:the projected terminus of the railroad.  For several miles north-west of Copperopolis, Bear Mountain has along its south-western base an outlying low, but tolerably distinct, ridge of hills, between which and the main mountain a continuous but narrow valley extends.</p><P>What was once the great copper mining section of the State lies here almost forgotten.  Two nearly parallel, well defined copper veins extend from the Calaveras to the Stanislaus rivers, one following the narrow valley between Bear Mountain and the neighboring ridge, and the other, which is more irregular and less valuable, extending along the Gopher Hills.</p><P>The most valuable portions of each of these ledges are at the eastern extremity.  These, as in the case of most copper deposits in California, are not regular fissure veins, but appear to contain independent masses of metal.  They do not exhibit all the characteristics of true veins, but the deposits are frequently of enormous dimensions and great purity.<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: Now that the copper excitement has subsided here, these mines are almost valueless and are mostly abandoned.  In 1864, 14,315 tons of copper ore, valued at $1,094,660, were shipped from the State, of which the greater portion came from these mines.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">See Geological Survey of California.  Geology, Vol. 1, p. 255.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Copperopolis was the trade center for this region.  Large stores, extensive hotels and costly hoisting works arose above the dry plains with scarcely less rapidity than Aladdin's famous palace.  The great expense of transporting the ore to where it can be worked has now rendered the mines worthless.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Extensive fires have swept over the place, removing all traces of many of the largest hotels and stores, and were it not for the dryness of the soil, grass would grow in the streets.  To-day Copperopolis mourns over the bright days of past prosperity, while the "dead-broke" miners, who are unable to get away, congregating in the bar-room of the shabby hotel, talk over incidents of former times, discuss the merits of respective shafts and long for a renewal of their previous success.  As they sit beside the round baizecovered table, on which lie a greasy pack of cards and a few newspapers at least a week old, and as they talk over their bright imaginary prospects, the lusterless eyes of these men occasionally gleam with something of the old light of their former enthusiastic and reckless life.</p><P>Between the Gopher Hills and Bear Mountain extends a valley from four to six miles wide and at an elevation of about 1,000 feet above the sea.  This, on account of numerous alkaline springs in various portions of it, has been named Salt Spring Valley.  Near Copperopolis it ends, being there succeeded by low hills that are separated by a confused number of steep and narrow gulches.  At the other end, near the Calaveras River, the valley also rises into hills.</p><P>Our road leads us over the Gopher Hills, across the Salt Spring Valley in its broadest place, and then over Bear Mountain; as we cross the first ridge the view is good, but it is not so fine as from the second range.  From the summit of the former, looking behind us, we see Milton, which consists of a few buildings grouped at the railroad terminus.  The heat in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:this so-called town is intolerable, there not being a tree or shrub in its neighborhood to form a shelter from the sun's rays.  As we look upon it, we see the hot air rising from the plain as from a furnace.  At our left, in regular rows, as the ledges of rock are followed, between which some moisture may be retained, grows the nut-pine--that representative of the cone-bearing trees which is found along the dryer portions of the western slope of the Sierra.</p><P>"The nut-pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus Sabiniana</HI>
185.sgm: ) is remarkable as a conifer for its spreading top, and for its large cones full of edible seeds.  It branches out somewhat after the manner of a maple; is rarely more than sixty feet high, though often with a trunk four feet in thickness--a thickness of trunk that with most conifers would give more than double its height.  About half way from the ground to the top, the trunk divides into a number of branches, which grow upward.***The seeds are larger than the common white bean and are very palatable, with a slight terebinthine taste.  The leaves are from four to ten inches long and grow in groups of three.  The foliage of the tree, when seen from a distance, resembles that of the willow, both in color and distribution."<ANCHOR ID="n4-3">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: The Indians subsist in a great measure on the seeds of this tree, so that in some sections of the State it has been called the "digger pine."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-3">Resources of California.  J. S. Hittell, S.F., 1874 p. 358.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Descending the Gopher Hills and entering the Salt Spring Valley, the first object that greets our eyes is the Salt Spring Valley Reservoir.  Here is collected water to be used for the purposes of mining and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:agriculture.  The water-shed being so favorable to accumulation of the fluid a comparatively short dam is required to form this large artificial lake.  Whenever the owners choose to raise their dam to the height allowed by their charter, it is estimated that this sheet of water will not cover less than 1,600 acres and will be over thirty feet deep in the center.</p><P>Riding through Salt Spring Valley we notice numerous veins of a thin-bedded, fine-grained and agrillaceous slate.  These veins are exposed to a height of two or three feet above the surface and run parallel with the ridges on either hand.  This slate frequently divides readily into very thin sheets.  The thinnest bedded varieties are exceedingly fragile and their structure is frequently wavy.  In some places the rock possesses sufficient strength to be used for roofing.  It is said that at one time in the southern portion of this valley considerable capital was invested in the working of these slate mines, an industry which, according to report, is about to be renewed.</p><P>We can easily perceive the manner in which this valley has been formed.  During the age of erosion, perhaps when the great ice sheet began to melt, that once overspread the entire Sierra to an immense depth, the soil which for two or three thousand feet in depth covered this section, was carried down to fill up the great inland sea and form the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin.  The slates of this valley, less solid than the harder and more metamorphic rocks of the hills on either side, were more easily eroded and carried away.<ANCHOR ID="n4-4">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-4">See "Salt Spring Valley and the Adjacent Region in Calaveras County," W. A. Goodyear.  Proc. Cal. Ac. Sciences, Vol. III, pp. 387-399.  Subject very fully treated.</NOTE>
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185.sgm:<P>Before beginning the ascent of Bear Mountain we pass through Tower and Bisbee's Ranch--the most fertile portion of the valley.  In the other parts the soil is shallow and very poor, being strewn with small and partly rounded quartz pebbles.  Even the dry grass of the San Joaquin Valley is not found there.  On this ranch, however, a good quality of fine hay is raised.  But, owing to the dryness of the air, it is necessary to stack this in very large cocks until it is baled, in order to prevent its becoming too dry and brittle for use.</p><P>As we wind up Bear Mountain the vegetation constantly changes.  Oaks and nut-pines are around us, while occasionally we notice a yellow pine.  ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus ponderosa</HI>
185.sgm: ).  The view becomes more and more extensive, first embracing the Salt Spring Valley in its whole length and breadth, a large ranch on the one side and an extensive reservoir on the other.  But, as our point of view becomes more elevated, we begin to look beyond and over the Gopher Hills upon the broad Valley of the San Joaquin.  At the summit of Bear Mountain the view is particularly fine.  Behind us lies the valley through which we have just passed, bounded by the hills, beyond which extends California's lower great valley.  In some portions, more particularly at the upper end, we see an undulating green expanse which closely resembles the distant bay.  It is not without difficulty and the use of the field glass that we are convinced that this mass is an ocean of green oaks.  On the western border of the broad expanse stands Monte Diablo--monarch of the plain.  Just beyond, blue against the bluer sky stretches the long, wavy ridge of the Coast Range.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Before us how different the view!  A great district of the Sierra ranges extends before the eyes like a grand panorama.  The foreground consists of pineclad hills that, in the distance, give place to high peaks where the fleecy snow lingers alike in July and in January.  Easily distinguished among the mass of lofty summits stands "Clouds' Rest," at the foot of which the Yosemite Valley nestles among the mountains.</p><P>At our present stand-point we are but a few feet less in altitude than at Murphy's, yet to reach that place we are obliged to descend this mountain and cross still another range of hills.  In the valley we change horses, the four that we have thus far had having brought us about half way--seventeen miles--on our journey from Milton to Murphy's.  With fresh horses we easily cross the remaining ridge that lies before us.</p><P>On our descent we pass through Altaville, situated in a steep gulch, through which the road runs, while a row of houses extends on either side.  This place was once of some note, but now scarcely merits a passing notice.  Still farther down the ravine we observe many places along its sides where the red soil has been digged over in search for particles of gold.  We soon reach Angel's Camp.  Numerous quartz mills around the town indicate a former thrift that it no longer possesses.  We were informed that in 1861, thirteen of these mills were working in the immediate vicinity.  We stop long enough to change mails, the general distributing office of this section of the country being located here.  While waiting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:we stroll through the building, which, at the same time, is post-office, express-office, grocery, and also drug, seed, and hardware store.  The back door opens upon a porch overhung with vines; between this and the hill-side opposite, flows a small stream, which trickles musically over the stones.  On the hill-side lives the proprietor, who, as his shop indicates, is a model of neatness and order.  His home is surrounded by grape vines and fruit trees, which are irrigated by trenches running along the hill-side.</p><P>We may here remark the superiority of the fruit raised on the foot-hills, in what is called the gold belt, over that produced in the valleys near San Francisco.  In the former localities the fruit sometimes is not so large, but what is lost in size is more than made good by the superiority of flavor.  Flowers, also, particularly roses and oleanders, thrive on the red soil of this district better than anywhere else in the State.  We have seen oleanders, near the Tuolumne River, that were eight and ten feet high, and completely covered with blossoms, which freighted the air with sweet perfume.  So dense was the mass of bloom that the leaves were scarcely to be seen among the dense clusters of pink flowers.  And this was out of doors where, at some seasons, the frosts are very severe.</p><P>It will be interesting to some tourists who have read Bret.  Harte's poem addressed "To the Pliocene Skull," which begins:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Speak, O man, less recent!  Fragmentary fossil!<LB>Primal pioneer of pliocene formation,<LB>Hid in the lowest drifts below the earliest stratum<LB>Of volcanic tufa,"</HI>
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185.sgm:<P>to know that we are now within two miles of the place where that interesting relic was exhumed.  Professor Whitney thus writes of this fragment of a human cranium.<ANCHOR ID="n4-5">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "The skull was found at a depth of about one hundred and thirty feet, in a bed of gravel five feet in thickness, above which are four beds of consolidated volcanic ash, locally known as `lava,' these volcanic beds are separated from each other by layers of gravel.****A careful inquiry into all the circumstances of the alleged discovery, and an interview with all the persons who had been in any way connected with it, impressed upon my mind the conviction that the facts were as stated above, and that there was every reason to believe that the skull really came from the position assigned to it.****This relic of human antiquity is easily seen to be an object of the greatest interest to the ethnologist, as well as the geologist.  The previous investigations of the Geological Survey have clearly demonstrated the fact that man was contemporaneous with the mastodon and elephant, since the works of his hands have been repeatedly found in such connection with the bones of these animals that it would be impossible to account for the facts observed on any other theory.<ANCHOR ID="n4-6">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: **But in the case of the skull now laid before the Academy, the geological position to which it must be assigned is, apparently still lower than that of the mastodon, since the remains of this animal, as well as the elephant, which are so abundantly scattered over this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:State, are always (so far as our observations yet extend) limited in their position to the superficial deposits, and have never been found at any considerable depth below the surface.  There is every reason to believe that these great proboscidians lived at a very recent date (geologically speaking), and posterior to the epoch of the existence of glaciers in the Sierra Nevada, and also after the close of the period of activity of the now extinct volcanoes of that great chain.  In fact, they belong to the present epoch.  The bed, on the other hand, in which this skull was found, must have been deposited at a time when the volcanoes of the Sierra were still in vigorous action, and, as it seems to us highly probable, from a careful consideration of the geological structure of the region, previous to the glacial epoch of the Sierra, and also previous to the erosion of the can&tilde;ons of the present rivers."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-5">Proceedings California Academy of Sciences.  Vol. III, pp, 277-278.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-6">See that portion of Chapter XI, which relates to the region around Table Mountain, Tuolumne County.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>A short ride brings us to Vallecito (Little Valley).  Here are situated numerous deep mines--the gold being found beneath three layers of lava.  This mining camp was in its most prosperous condition in 1852 and 1853.  On the left side of the road, for quite a distance, we see a cliff of volcanic breccia, a portion of the great lava flow that at a former time occurred in this region.</p><P>Two miles before reaching Murphy's, the end of our journey, we pass through Douglass Flat, at which place a particularly fine field of grain appears in striking contrast to the reddish hill-sides that nearly enclose the little valley.  The sun is fast sinking behind Bear Mountain, producing strange effects as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:it lights up the fleecy clouds and shines through the varied foliage on the mountain top.  The blushing clouds are quickly changing to a slatey color, and then to a black hue.  The stars begin to twinkle, and as the moon serenely glances over the hill-tops, we enter Murphy's, and the day and our journey have closed together.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.<LB>CALAVERAS COUNTY.<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"All hail to the grand old mountains,<LB>With their green and glittering dress,<LB>Fit type for a youthful country,<LB>In its pride and loneliness."</HI>
185.sgm:<P>WE ARE now in Calaveras County, which we entered when we descended the Gopher Hills into the Salt Spring Valley.  It may, therefore, be well for us to have a general idea of the country before going further.  Calaveras is separated from Amador County on the north-west by the Mokelumne River; and is bounded on the east by Alpine County.  On the south-east it is divided from Tuolumne County by the Stanislaus River; while the two counties of San Joaquin and Stanislaus form the western boundary.  It derives its name from the Calaveras River, which drains the entire region lying between the Mokelumne and Stanislaus.  The name, Calaveras, originally meant a skull.  Calaveras County is shaped much like a pear, the base being the south-western boundary.  It contains 1,140 square miles, of which, from the scarcity of water, only 98 are agricultural land.  The bounding rivers are the only permanent ones, except some small streams which are confined to the high mountain region.  The Calaveras River, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:as well as the San Antonio, although a large stream in spring, is entirely dry late in the year.  The water of the former is almost exhausted for mining purposes before it reaches the foot-hill section.  When this supply fails, the miners are obliged to have recourse to the extensive system of ditches that conveys water from the highest mountain districts.</p><P>The entire county is mountainous.  Bear Mountain, which extends from the Stanislaus to the Mokelumne, divides it into two portions.  The district on the south-west belongs to the foot-hill section, while the second division forms a part of the Sierra proper.  A portion of the latter region, about twelve miles east of Bear Mountain, was once one of the richest gold mining sections of the State.  As there is a tolerably abundant supply of water for the purposes of irrigation, a part of the land is quite well cultivated, and in certain places produces excellent fruit.</p><P>An extensive limestone belt extends through Calaveras County, which appears to be made up of numerous immense, detached masses, entirely severed from each other and lying in an east and west direction.  This detachment has probably been caused by the great physical disturbances which have occurred in this section.  The limestone belt is first seen near Douglass Flat, then at Murphy's, and again at Cave City.  How much farther it may continue we cannot say from personal observation.</p><P>The limestone at Murphy's projects from the surface of the earth to a great height, and in an exceedingly picturesque manner, at the east and north of the town.  This is the naked expanse of bluish-gray <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:rock visible from the hotel.  The same belt extends beneath the town, and may be seen around it wherever the soil has been washed off.  Upon examination we find the rock of a light bluish-gray color, in striking contrast to the reddish-brown of the auriferous slate-formations, as well as to the universal red dirt which covers it, and which occurs throughout the gold bearing belt.  The rock which lies in the valley is worn into deep cavities by the action of water.  How long ago this was done it would be difficult to determine.  In these natural "riffles" lies the golden <HI REND="italics">detritus</HI>
185.sgm:, and from these little cavities large amounts of the precious metal have been taken.  While the processes of Nature's hydraulic activities were going on, this was one of her ground, or, more properly speaking, rock sluices, through which the soil from the regions around was carried down to fill up a great inland sea and form the broad plain between the Sierra Nevada and the Coast Range.</p><P>At Murphy's the limestone belt is about a mile and a quarter wide.  Its southern boundary is slate, which contains several quartz veins.  This slate dips to the north-east at an angle of about 70&deg;.  On the northern boundary the limestone passes through an intermediate stage of calcareous sandstone into a silicious slate.  Near the line of contact between the limestone and the slate extensive deposits of hematitic iron ore have been discovered.  A remarkable characteristic of the limestone in this vicinity is the gold-bearing quartz veins that it contains.  Some of these have been found of sufficient extent and value to warrant working.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Murphy's lies in a little valley nearly surrounded by the red hills of the region, on which grows the manzanita, together with pines, and occasionally an oak.  As might be inferred, it was at one time a place of considerable importance.  The various kinds of mining in the neighborhood had the effect of building up a town, that had as bright prospects of future wealth and importance as almost any other in the State.  The pockets in the limestone are nearly exhausted, the quartz veins do not pay sufficiently to warrant great expenditures in opening them, and agriculture is not generally followed.  Fire also has endeavored to destroy the town, and Murphy's stands a shabby memorial of the illusive hopes of its early days.  The only edifice of importance in the place is the hotel, a large two-story brick building with iron shutters.</p><P>It is about sixteen miles from Murphy's to the Mammoth Grove of Calaveras.  In accomplishing this distance we rise about 2,300 feet.  The road follows Murphy's Can&tilde;on for about three miles and then winds over rolling hills and along the sides of pretty valleys for the remainder of the distance.  The can&tilde;on road is quite steep, and the scenery is charming indeed.  Below the road, in the can&tilde;on bed, flows a copious stream over which droop many beautiful trees, shrubs, ferns and flowers.  The side-hills are steep and are covered with a fine growth of trees, mostly coniferous.</p><P>Let us examine a few of the trees around us, as they are such as we shall frequently see in other portions of the State, and the sooner we learn to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:recognize them, the more varied will be the pleasure of our journeyings.</p><P>The most stately tree of all, next to the mammoth and red-wood, is the sugar pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus Lambertiana</HI>
185.sgm: ), which closely resembles the white pine ( <HI REND="italics">P. strobus</HI>
185.sgm: ) of the Atlantic States, though "like all the conifers on the Pacific Coast, it exhibits a symmetry and perfection of growth not attained by the trees of any other part of the world."<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: This tree has been known to reach a height of three hundred feet, and a diameter of twenty, but its ordinary height is about two hundred feet.  A sweet resin, that can with difficulty be distinguished from the manna of the drug-store, exudes from the hard wood and gives a name to the tree.  This tree, perhaps better than any other, exhibits the prevailing characteristic of the cone-bearers, the great development of the trunk at the expense of the branches.  Almost the whole growth is confined to the trunk, and this stands as free from flaws and as perpendicular as the columns that support the <HI REND="italics">facade</HI>
185.sgm: of some massive temple raised by man in imitation of the grander handiwork of Nature.  As we walk or ride among the trees, where their giant trunks stand near together, and the mingling boughs largely shut out the sunlight, it is not difficult to imagine that we are strolling through some Egyptian city of the past, where "Nile reflects the endless length of dark red colonnades."  The slender branches above, the sparse foliage, and the cones, frequently eighteen inches long by four in thickness, suspended from the extremity of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:limbs in small clusters, all produce a very striking effect.  The leaves are of a dark bluish-green, about three inches long, and grow in groups of five.  The wood, which is used to finish the interior of houses, is similar to that of the white pine.  It is white, soft, straight-grained, free from knots, and splits freely.  This is the chief building material of the Sierra Nevada.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">Dr. Newberry.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The next tree in stateliness, found both in the Coast Range and the Sierras, is the Western yellow pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus ponderosa</HI>
185.sgm: ), which is sometimes found seven feet in diameter.  The leaves, which are a dark, yellowish-green, grow in triplets, forming tufts at the ends of the branches that give the foliage a very peculiar appearance.  The bark is of a light yellowish-brown color, and looks something like cork.  It is divided into smooth plates, which are from twelve to twenty inches long, and from four to eight wide.  The yellow pine is valuable for lumber, and also for the turpentine that exudes when the tree is cut.</p><P>On the hill-sides we see that distinguishing shrub of California, the manzanita ( <HI REND="italics">Arctostaphylos glauca</HI>
185.sgm: ).  This grows in the coast valleys and up to the limits of perpetual snow in the Sierra Nevada.  This shrub is very dense, and is sometimes as high as twelve feet, with almost the same width.  The trunk, which is extremely crooked, divides near the ground into several branches that terminate in a countless multitude of twigs.  On these sprays grow thick, shiny, pea-green leaves which, in shape, are oval, about an inch and a half long, and set vertically on the stems.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:The branches are very crooked, and it is with the greatest difficulty that a straight piece of proper size for a cane can be found.  The wood is very dense and hard, and dark red in color.  The bark is smooth and red, forming a pretty contrast to the leaves.  This sometimes peels off and shows the new light-green bark, which soon turns to the color of that which is older.  The flowers are pinkish-white and grow in clusters.  The berries, which are food alike for the grizzly and the Indian, are round, red, and half an inch in circumference.  These berries have a pleasant acidulous taste, and in appearance resemble miniature apples, from which the shrub derives its name, as manzanita, in Spanish, means little apple.</p><P>On the banks of the creek grows the "buck eye" ( <HI REND="italics">&AElig;sculus Californica</HI>
185.sgm: ).  This is a spreading shrub, found on rocky ledges, in steep ravines, and along the banks of streams.  It grows to the height of fifteen feet, and its dense foliage presents the contour of a hemisphere.  The leaves grow in sets of five on a stem.  The shrub is covered from early spring to late fall with flowers, which are white, arranged on a crescent-shaped stalk, and diffuse a very agreeable odor.  The fruit is large and plentiful.</p><P>The water which we see, first on one hand and then on the other, has been brought fifty miles, to serve the purposes of mining and agriculture.  It is conveyed in ditches for the greater part of the distance.  Here, however, the bed of a former stream has been utilized, to save expense.  These ditches belong to the Union Water Company, which has its office in Murphy's.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Ditches are the arteries through which flow vital currents, without which large portions of California would be of little value either for mining or agriculture.  The ditches in this county alone are over three hundred miles long, and have cost in construction more than two million dollars.  In the valleys and foot-hills of the Sierras, the stratification of the rock is nearly perpendicular, so that all moisture sinks to the lowest levels, and goes to form those underground water-courses from which Artesian wells draw their supply.  As the season advances, almost all the water through this section disappears, and the land becomes dry and parched, till the coming of the rainy season.  The auriferous belt, where most of the gold has been found in placer or hydraulic mines, lies in this region.  To work these mines an abundant supply of water is of paramount importance.  How is this to be obtained?  The only way is to convey it from sources high in the regions of perpetual snow.  This has been done by flumes and by ditches.  The former means are more expensive and less satisfactory than the latter.  The lumber of which a flume is constructed costs more than a trench in the ground, and while a flume is growing weaker day by day, a ditch is constantly improving.  A flume is a box of rough boards, generally about four feet broad and three deep; at intervals of four feet it rests on a sill four inches square, and its sides are strengthened by two upright stakes of the same dimensions, mortised into the sill.  These stakes are bound together, and the whole structure made strong by caps ten inches thick and four wide, which are mortised on the side <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:supports.  When a can&tilde;on intervenes, it being necessary to carry the flume in nearly a level position, a sustaining framework is required.  This is built much like a railroad bridge in a similar position, although no so strongly.  Some high flumes, as these structures are called, are more than two hundred feet above the gorge below, and those which have not been broken down by the winds and snows, now stand as conspicuous specimens, both of engineering skill and useless extravagance.  Iron tubes, made in the form of inverted siphons, are now used in these localities, and as they lie against the ground, the snow cannot break them down.  The iron pipes are in the first place cheaper, and when we consider the expense of repairs and the frequent entire reconstruction of wooden flumes, we can only wonder that people have for so long a time expended thousands where hundreds would have been equally efficient.</p><P>A ditch is a deep, broad trench, cut along the mountain sides and around the heads of ravines, to serve the purposes of a flume.  For the first few years much trouble is experienced, as the water escapes through the loose soil and numerous squirrel holes.  Great vigilance must, therefore, be exercised.  But as the ditch becomes older, the ground under and around it grows more and more compact, and the squirrel holes are filled, so that the loss of water is, at least, no greater than from a flume.  The seeds of pines and other trees and bushes, blown by the wind or lodged from the water, take root and grow into fine trees, frequently forming a perfect hedge.  The roots serve to bind together the soil and make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:the ditch more secure from year to year.  In a flume, unless the water is constantly running, the sun so warps and cracks the boards that the structure is rendered useless, while a ditch may remain dry for months and suffer no such injury.</p><P>A flume under the most favorable circumstances will last only about ten years, and must then be renewed.  A ditch, on the other hand, if it receives proper care, will remain a permanent feature of the landscape.</p><P>As before mentioned, for about three miles after leaving Murphy's, we ascend a picturesque ravine.  The water of the creek rushing over its polished rocky bed, the drooping dog-woods, maples and buckeyes along the stream, the tufts of giant ferns growing amid the sparkling waters, the steep hill-sides clothed with dense pines and manzanitas, vividly contrasting in color with the red earth, all these form a picture of striking beauty.  After leaving this can&tilde;on the road forks, but either branch will take us to our destination, and both lead over the rolling mountain land and along the sides of quiet valleys.  At some points the view is very attractive, and at the summit of one hill we see at a glance a great part of central California.</p><P>Having taken this trip (Murphy's to the Grove) in the public conveyance, as well as on foot, it was with pleasure that the writer accepted the invitation of a San Francisco gentleman to travel over this road by night in a private carriage.  Starting at half past six, the ride through the ravine was made during the twilight and presented no unusual attractions.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:the half-way house we waited about an hour for the full moon to rise before taking the remainder of the journey through the deep forests.  Poetry only can portray the impressions of sublimity and beauty received in the course of a moonlight journey through California forests.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Shapes which have no certainty of shape,<LB>Drift duskly in and out between the pines,<LB>And loom along the edges of the hills,<LB>And lie flat curdling in the open ground."</HI>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.<LB>CALAVERAS MAMMOTH TREES.<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Here aged trees cathedral walks compose,<LB>And mount the hill in venerable rows."</HI>
185.sgm:<P>THIS Grove is situated in Calaveras County, near the line of Tuolumne, in a small valley which extends in a north-west and south-east direction.  It includes ninety-three mammoth trees ( <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
185.sgm: ) and more than one hundred sugar pines ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus Lambertiana</HI>
185.sgm: ) and yellow pines ( <HI REND="italics">P. ponderosa</HI>
185.sgm: ).  It occupies a belt 3,200 feet in length and about 700 feet in breadth, at an elevation of 4,759 feet above the sea.  The Calaveras Grove and the South Grove, seven miles distant, are private property.</p><P>The San Antonio, one of the largest streams of Calaveras County, flows at the distance of a mile north of the hotel which adjoins the former grove.  The scenery on the banks of this creek is often beautiful, and is especially attractive at one point where there is a water-fall about 150 feet in height.</p><P>The first view of these trees is generally attended with extreme disappointment.  They by no means equal expectation.  But, as the observer becomes familiar with them, his chagrin subsides.  If he measures their circumference, or, lying upon his back, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:looks up noticing that he is obliged to look long and repeatedly before the height of their towering summits is properly comprehended, he will begin to appreciate their huge dimensions.  His disappointment is the result of various causes.  The trees are so admirably proportioned that they do not appear as large as they would were they less symmetrical.  The surrounding sugar pines are giants of their kind, and do not afford as correct measures for comparison as pines of the usual size would supply.  The longer one lingers among "these giants of the ancient world" the more completely does the feeling of disappointment give way to impressions of mingled awe and admiration.</p><P>The full grown <HI REND="italics">Sequoias</HI>
185.sgm: are not the only representatives of their species that here abound.  Numerous young trees--perhaps a thousand years old--stand near the border of the grove.  While groping among the undergrowth, which in some places is quite thick, I found infant trees, from one to three feet in height, of such a size as those that are sold in the nurseries of San Francisco.  If these youngsters are not arrested in their development, they will, in ten or twenty centuries, reach very respectable dimensions, and will become worthy successors of those now standing in full vigor, or, by tardy decay, returning to their mother earth from which they have been as slowly reared.</p><P>The soil of the little valley is very fertile.  Where the sun sheds his rays through small openings in the roof of green, beautiful wild flowers spring into life and brighten the sombre vistas of the forest.  In <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:cool spots where the ground is moist, and even on dryer hill-sides, the Snow plant ( <HI REND="italics">Sarcodes sanguinea</HI>
185.sgm:, Torr.) appears, which is allied to the Beach-drops ( <HI REND="italics">Orobanche</HI>
185.sgm: ) of the Eastern States.  It pushes through the loose soil its fleshy pink-white stalk, surmounted by slightly drooping cup-shaped flowers of a blood-red color.</p><P>The dog-wood ( <HI REND="italics">Cornus Nutallii</HI>
185.sgm: ) supplies another attractive feature to the grove.  It is a tree from ten to fifteen feet in height, with bright green leaves and small flowers, which are surrounded by broad, white and showy bracts.  The dog-woods are abundant beside some of the paths in the grove near the hotel, and alleviate the dark shadows, which, even at mid-day, suggest the approach of night.</p><P>While strolling through the grove, one is pained by observing that many trees bear marble tablets on which the names of generals and politicians of ephemeral notoriety have been inscribed.  Why should these living monuments, reared by the hand of Nature to commemorate past ages, be connected also with the memories of our little-great men?  Heaven forbid that these glorious trees should continue to be made bulletin-boards upon which are emblazoned the names of those who have won a transient renown on the field of war or the arena of polities.</p><P>A walk of about one hundred and eighty yards brings one to the first <HI REND="italics">Sequoia</HI>
185.sgm: of note--the "Pride of the Forest"--situated on the right hand side of the path.  This tree is forty-eight feet in circumference and one hundred and eighty high.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
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185.sgm:smaller than some of its companions, a healthier and more noble tree cannot be found in the grove.  To the right lies what remains of the trunk of a prostrate giant, the greater portion having been transformed into pretty little mementoes of the spot that are taken away by visitors.  On our way hither, about sixty yards back, we passed under a trio of trees that bear the names of noted generals.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">All the measurements of trees in this grove are taken from the report of the State Geologist.  The circumferences were measured six feet above the ground.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The next tree of interest is the "Miner's Cabin," which in November, 1860, yielded to the fury of the tempest.  About one hundred and fifty feet from the roots this tree fell across the trunk of one that may have lain there when sturdy pioneers were disembarking on the bleak, inhospitable shores of New England.</p><P>The "Three Graces," that have been extensively represented by engravings and photographs, are conceded to form the finest group in the grove.  They are ranged in a perfectly straight line, and are noted alike for height and symmetry.  Each is about thirty feet in circumference, while the tallest is two hundred and sixty-two feet high.</p><P>Some little distance farther on stands a tree forty-eight feet in circumference and two hundred and sixty-two feet high, bearing the name of "William Cullen Bryant," together with the legend, "The groves were God's first temples."  This tree has been injured by fire to a great extent, and several apertures in its trunk, over which the bark has partially grown, are large enough to admit a full grown man.</p><P>In about the centre of the grove we find the "Pioneer's Cabin," one of the largest trees.  The entire heart has been burned out for a considerable height, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:and only a comparatively small shell supports the immense weight of the massive trunk.  On one side, near the top of the blackened cavity, an opening has been burnt.  Where this hole now is a branch probably once existed, which in the conflagration was entirely destroyed.  Standing within this tent-shaped opening and looking first through the entrance upon the thrifty young trees at hand, and then through the "chimney" at the blue sky, framed in a border of green boughs, one may see that this tree has not been inappropriately named.  A short distance to the right stands "Pluto's Chimney," the north side of which has been hollowed out by fire for a height of ninety feet.  Scarcely more than one-third of the base section remains, yet the branches are thrifty, and viewing the uninjured side one would pronounce this one of the best preserved trees in the grand old Sequoia Grove.  Near the "Pioneer's Cabin," on the west, stand two vigorous trees of the same species, each about seventy-five years old, while around it are many older ones that mingle with pines, cedars, and firs, forming a varied and beautiful spectacle.</p><P>When we have walked about two hundred and fifty feet further we find, on the right, the uprooted base of a mammoth trunk that appears to have lain there for centuries.  The log is now eighteen feet in diameter without the bark, which long since mingled with the fertile soil around it.  This has been called the "Fallen Monarch."  Who can say at what time in the distant past some angry tempest hurled to the ground this forest-king that for so many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:centuries breasted the fury of the storms?  Where the top must have fallen, pines stand that now seem fast approaching the noon of their life.  As we stand upon the prostrate trunk more than a dozen <HI REND="italics">Sequoias</HI>
185.sgm: are visible, their reddish-brown trunks beautifully contrasting with the brilliant green of the young firs that surround them.</p><P>We now approach the north end of the enclosure, beyond which only three unimportant mammoth trees are found.  Before us, just here, is the "Mother of the Forest," three hundred and fifty feet high, which, though destitute of bark, measures sixty-one feet in circumference.  This tree ranks third in height, lacking but ten feet of being as tall as the loftiest of the grove.  It stands first in size of trunk.  The bark, which is said to have been eighteen inches in thickness, was stripped from the tree for one hundred and sixteen feet, by a Mr. Gale.  The only excuse for this act of vandalism, which soon caused the death of the finest tree in the grove, is that he wished to exhibit the bark in the East.  On one of the topmost branches a small tree, supposed to be a sugar pine, has sprung, and is endeavoring to draw life from the dead and bleaching trunk.</p><P>The "Mother," with naked, outstretched arms, and with portions of the scaffolding that was used in her destruction still cleaving to her sides, stands, in seeming mute appeal, that her children, who cluster around, may be protected from the ruin that has fallen upon herself.</p><P>We stroll along, and reaching the roots of the prostrate "Father of the Forest," pause to look around us.  Glancing back over the path we find the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:view obscured by the dense shadows of giant trees, while in the distance stands the "Mother," her bare, white arms and scathed trunk painfully visible against the green background.</p><P>Around us is the densest portion of the grove, and <HI REND="italics">Sequoias</HI>
185.sgm: only are to be found in the immediate vicinity.  The "Father of the Forest" probably fell centuries ago.  In falling, at the height of about three hundred feet, he struck the trunk of another tree, and at that point all trace of the top disappears.  Some maintain that the "Father," according to the general rate of tapering observed in his companions, was not, when uninjured, less than four hundred and fifty feet high.  The State Geologist, however, taking the height of the tallest standing tree--three hundred and twenty-five feet--as a basis, argues that it is not likely that this one towered one hundred and twenty-five feet above his compeers.  For a distance of about two hundred feet one is able to ride on horseback through this trunk, which has been burnt out, and emerge from a knot-hole, that has been slightly enlarged, the height, but not the width, being somewhat increased.</p><P>Several children of this great tree shelter his fallen trunk.  These form the "Keystone State Group," of which cluster the "Keystone State" is the tallest tree upon this continent that has been accurately measured.</p><P>Passing on we come to a tree that, until it fell, in 1862, was the largest standing of the grove.  This tree--"Hercules"--leaned about seventy feet from the perpendicular, and fell across the little rill that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:meanders through the grove, striking against the hill-side with such force that the top is completely shattered.  A long ladder takes us to the top of the trunk, and the view fully repays the exertion of climbing.  One can have no idea of the size of these trees until he stands on the side of a fallen one and looks at the ground beneath.  It is quite a walk from the roots to the top of this tree along the trunk, and back.  We would have to perform this task only eight times to walk a mile.</p><P>We follow the beaten track back to the hotel, and in doing so pass many large trees that want of space does not permit us to mention individually.  Less shaded than that on the other side of the valley, this path is very pleasant.  We notice in many places beautifully painted butterflies dancing merrily on the sunbeams.</p><P>On our way back we reach the main wagon-road to the hotel and walk between the "Sentinels," which are only far enough apart to allow a carriage to pass.  They incline at a gentle angle toward each other, and their tops almost meet.</p><P>Near the "Sentinels" stands the "Stump-house," erected over the stump of the tree that was cut down at the same time that the "Mother of the Forest" was robbed.  This tree, which was probably the largest in the grove when it was discovered, was felled by another act of forest sacrilege.  After having been severed from the base with great labor, by boring with pump augers, the trunk refused to fall, and wedges were driven in to throw it off its balance.  So evenly poised was it, however, that after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:a work of three days in driving wedges, the wind did what man had failed to accomplish, and the mighty tree lay on the ground a shattered wreck.</p><P>The stump, when leveled off, was found to be twenty-four feet one and a half inches across its longer, and twenty-three feet across the shorter diameter.</p><P>By the "Stump-house" lies the "Chip-of-the-Old Block," a portion of the base section of the fallen tree.  This chip is about thirty feet long and twenty-four feet in diameter.  At the upper end the annual rings of growth, excepting in a small cavity at the heart, were counted by members of the State Geological Survey.  The number of perfect concentric rings was found to be 1,255, and probably enough are obliterated in the cavity to bring this number up to 1,300.  The tree is thus proclaimed to be 1,300 years old.  In the first one hundred years the width of the annual rings measured but three inches.  In the twelfth century of this tree's life this width was increased to thirteen inches, and during the last fifty-five years the total increase was nine and four-tenths inches.</p><P>There are in the grove four trees more than three hundred feet high, and ten higher than the tallest in the Mariposa Grove, which is two hundred and seventy-two feet in height.  Eighteen trees are over forty feet in circumference.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
185.sgm:, as well as its brother, the redwood ( <HI REND="italics">Sequoia sempervirens</HI>
185.sgm: ), is found in California only, although fossil wood, closely allied to it, has been found in Greenland.  The former occurs in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:comparatively small "groves" on the Sierra Nevada, while the latter extends along the west side of the Coast Range through nearly the entire length of the State.</p><P>The bark of the mammoth tree has deep longitudinal corrugations--and the interstices are filled with an elastic, spongy substance, from which pin-cushions of excellent quality may be made.  The bark is reddish-brown, generally very thick, reaching in a few exceptional cases the thickness of twenty-four inches.  The most common thickness on the large trees is about eighteen inches, although on some it is not more than three or four.  The wood, which is red in color and closely resembles red-cedar, is straight-grained and soft, and very light when dry.  It takes a fine polish.  It may be easily split, and, like the red-wood, is exceedingly brittle.</p><P>The <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
185.sgm: bears two sets of leaves, those on the young trees being about five-eighths of an inch long and one-eighth of an inch wide.  They are set in pairs on small stems opposite each other.  The other set grows on the branches that have borne flowers, and are triangular in shape, about an eighth of an inch long, and they lie close to the stem.  The cone, which is nearly smooth, is about the size of a hen's egg, although on one tree, "The Beauty of the Forest," I found them of about twice the ordinary size.  The seed, of a light straw color, is exceedingly minute, some fifty thousand being required to weigh a pound.  They are as thin as writing paper, about a quarter of an inch long and an eighth of an inch wide.  Joined with the seed is a peculiar substance, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:apparently a gum, which drops out when we shake a dry cone.  About twenty cones are required to furnish an ounce of this material, which in the drying appears to have shrunk alike from seed and cone, and falls out in broken grains, with brilliant conchordal fractured surfaces.  The color is purplish-black by reflected light, and bright carmine-red by transmitted light.  This gum tastes somewhat like tannin.  It may be dissolved in water and ordinary alcohol, and gives the solution a brilliant claret color, which darkens on exposure to the air.</p><P>A long stay at this grove is by no means tiresome.  There are many ways in which one may spend the time both pleasantly and profitably.  Excellent hunting and fishing grounds abound at no great distance.  Pleasant roads along the mountains disclose grand views of the surrounding peaks, and shady trails leading to sylvan glades, invite the equestrian to the saddle.</p><P>Every time we stroll among these gigantic trees we see new beauties, whether in the early morning while the dew-drops still linger on the slender grasses and delicate flowers; or, at noonday, when we retreat from the heat into the still cool shades; or, again, when at night the deep recesses grow darker and yet more dark; or when, through the "dim-lit wood" the moonbeams fall, lighting up the depths where the forces of light and darkness are ever battling for supremacy.  It is pleasant to-day to notice the bud of some strange plant, and to-morrow to wander to the same spot and examine the fullblown flower.  When we tire of noticing the flowers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:and butterflies, we may count the annual rings of growth on some of the fallen trees, and as the increasing numbers carry us gradually back into the remote past, it is pleasant to remember or fancy the consecutive events which have happened since these giant denizens of the forest sprouted from their minute seeds.  Meanwhile the gentle breeze, swaying the top-most branches, whispers of a mighty future co-equal with the limitless past.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.<LB>SOUTH GROVE.<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Here centuries have chronicled their years,<LB>Yet left these grand old forms, still hale and strong,<LB>And rich in waving boughs and emerald leaves."</HI>
185.sgm:<P>ABOUT seven miles south of the locality described in the preceding chapter and a short distance beyond the boundary of Calaveras, in Tuolumne county, stands a group of over thirteen hundred <HI REND="italics">Sequoias</HI>
185.sgm:.  This is called the South Grove, or sometimes the South Park Grove, and is by far the largest cluster of <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
185.sgm: that has as yet been discovered.  Like those before described, these trees are also in a small valley, which has a greater length than that in which the Calaveras trees are found, although it is not so wide.  The locality is at present reached by a trail, but a good wagon road to this grove is contemplated.  Should this be built, it will do much to make this place better known, and would fully remunerate those incurring this expense.</p><P>Leaving the hotel, after an excellent breakfast to which we brought a good appetite from a previous stroll through the grove, we set out over the hills, carrying a good lunch with us.  Just beyond the "Sentinels" we begin to ascend the hill that walls in the valley on one side.  Reaching the summit, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:come to the road to Silver Mountain, where, at one time, very rich mines were thought to exist.  From this point the view is grand; before us extend the pine-clad hills, separated by narrow valleys, beyond snowy peaks "in the wild pomp of mountain majesty" glisten in the early sunlight.  To the right may be seen the San Joaquin Valley, and beyond that the azure-hued Coast Ranges.</p><P>From this point the descent is very abrupt, after which we travel for quite a distance beside a little streamlet.  This part of the road is through a fine growth of beautiful trees, most of which are dogwoods.  As we ride under this natural arbor, we feel in the cool air a desirable change from the heat we encountered while descending to this pleasant valley.</p><P>Here we notice where the shake-splitters have been at work.  Shakes are split out of pine logs, and are about four feet long, six inches broad, and between half and a quarter of an inch in thickness.  They are used for roofing houses, being attached to the roof in the same way as shingles, the place of which they supply.  Frequently buildings are wholly covered with them, the shakes being used in place of clap-boards.  Shake making is quite an industry throughout the Sierras, and, as there are many who have never seen the process, we will describe it.  A fine large and symmetrical pine is found and felled.  The trunk up to the point where the branches begin is cut with a cross-cut saw into sections about four feet long.  These sections, which are of the length of the required shakes, are placed on end and the bark is chipped off with an axe.  The process of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:splitting now begins.  The circumference of the upper base of this cylinder is then divided into arcs, about six or eight inches long, by splitting in the direction of the radii of the circle.  This done, these sectors thus formed are cut off, so that the radii measure each about four inches, that being the width of the required shake.  The pieces thus obtained are split to the desired thickness, the blade of the axe being applied in the line of the radii of the original circle.  After what we might call one layer has been taken from the block, the same process is continued until the heart of the tree is neared, when work on that particular block ceases.  Should a piece with a knot be found, it is thrown aside, as shakes must be perfectly straight and free from flaws.  After splitting, the shakes are corded up with weights on the ends to prevent their warping.  The heart, upper portion of the trunk and the branches are left on the ground to decay.</p><P>After riding through the low valley for a considerable distance, we ascend a small hill where beautiful wild flowers of many hues line the side of the trail.  A little farther we see on the left that the tiny stream by the side of which we have been riding, falls over the rocks a distance of about fifty feet.  The water strikes on one ledge and bounds merrily to another.  The stream is not large, or the fall high, yet there is a peculiar beauty in the cascade.  From the trail, its sparkling waters, seen through the openings in the trees, form a pleasing picture.  But the other attractions in the vicinity are so much more engaging, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:the time allotted to the trip so short that, if this fall is seen at all, it excites but a careless remark, or receives but a casual glance.</p><P>We are descending the hill, at the foot of which flows the North Fork of the Stanislaus River, that partly forms the boundary between Calaveras and Tuolumne counties.  The bed and sides of the river are granite.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The channel worn<LB>By ever-flowing streams--"</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>Is in some places as smooth as glass.  The waters are very swift, and should a person fall into the ice-cold torrent, his chances of escape would be very few, indeed.  The smooth, slippery sides would mock his efforts to grasp them, while the eddying waters would with frightful rapidity hurry him to destruction.</p><P>At this point the stream is crossed by a bridge about four feet wide.  At each end log abutments are built to the water's edge.  Extending from one to the other of these are two pine logs that form the timbers upon which the floor is laid.  At first sight this structure looks very insecure.  The pine logs having great elasticity cause the bridge to vibrate to a noticeable degree when one crosses.  But the fibres of the logs being tough and the flooring securely fastened, the danger is not greater than on an ordinary bridge.</p><P>Above the bridge, a hundred feet or more, the river falls a few feet over a ledge of rock.  The roar as we cross is deafening.  At one end of this miniature Niagara a boulder juts into the torrent of eddying waters.  On this it is pleasant to lie and watch the rushing stream.  Near by, in a crevice in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:rock, grow beautiful red <HI REND="italics">pentstemons</HI>
185.sgm:, that are more noticeable by contrast with the gray granite.  Many rich ferns and rare flowers grow high on the river banks and among the trees in the immediate vicinity, making this a spot where the botanist, or lover of Nature may spend many pleasant hours.</p><P>On the north side of the river, about half a mile below the bridge, rises a ridge of basaltic cliffs to the height of about one hundred feet.  No similar rocks occur in the vicinity.  They add a charm to the view wherever they form a part of the landscape.</p><P>From the river, for a considerable distance, the road is steep and rocky.  Further on it winds along near the top of the ridge through noble groves, and descends abruptly to Beaver Creek.  This is at some seasons a large, swift stream, and as there is no bridge over it, the stream then forms a barrier to horse-back travel to the South Grove.  But it need never arrest the progress of pedestrians, as several large trees have fallen across the creek and make secure bridges.  Along the stream where we cross is a dense growth of willows, and in some places a few cotton-woods appear.</p><P>After fording Beaver Creek we come to a new kind of vegetation--chaparral.  This is a general name given to several shrubs that in growth are very similar, and cover extensive portions of California.  Just above the ground the stalk divides into hundreds of wiry branches, that again separate into thousands of twigs.  All these are exceedingly tough and elastic.  Many of the bushes are armed with unpleasant looking thorns that make progress through the mass <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:impossible.  The bushes grow about three feet high--some higher than this, others shorter--and so thick are they that the branches generally are closely interlaced.  The attempt, therefore, to force one's way through, proves utterly impracticable.  Neither can one crawl over the ground, as the branches frequently lie flat on the earth.  The only passage through chaparral is made by fire.  The shrubs are very hardy, and after the tops are burnt off new sprouts will start from the roots in the following spring.  Many square miles of California are covered with these shrubs, and have therefore never been explored.  Among them large numbers of quails find a home, and to them the grizzly bear retreats before the advance of his enemy.</p><P>A few hundred yards from the creek the trail forks.  Wishing to see as much as possible on our trip, we take the right hand branch, or the one lower down the hill.  We leave the belt of chaparral and ride among grand pines.  This is less traveled than the other trail, but we will find no difficulty in keeping our course, being guided by the "blazes," or axemarks on the trees.</p><P>The growth of timber is remarkable.  Did time permit we would gladly sketch this rock, that tree, or the graceful shrub by which we ride.  What a landscape is here spread before us, and what a picture it would make!--the distant mountains veiled deeply in purple haze, and the nearer hills clothed with pines of various shades.</p><P>We enter the South Grove by this trail, near its lower end, and almost without knowing it find ourselves among the giants of the vegetable world.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:the right of the path stands a tree that lightning has riven from top to bottom, and two trees now stand there, the sundered halves of the original stock.  All the branches are thrifty, as if a bolt had never fallen on the trunk through which they draw their life.</p><P>After riding a long distance, with mammoth trees on either hand, we arrive at a clearing near the centre of the tract.  At one side, where the other trail from Beaver Creek enters the grove, lies a giant <HI REND="italics">Sequoia</HI>
185.sgm:.  When this tree was blown over a large mass of soil and rocks adhered to the sundered roots.  Enough earth to furnish sustenance to a tree of large dimensions still fills the cavities between the dead roots, that look more like individual trees than the channels through which the sap was drawn.  Here we notice the same appearance that we have observed in the Mammoth Grove and elsewhere.  Where this soil has been torn out by the falling of a tree, a large semicircular cavity exists.  When the tree and roots decay, the earth held together by the latter will form a large mound.  There are several of these pits, having a bank on one side, which much resemble redoubts.</p><P>We have abundant examples of the slowness with which the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia</HI>
185.sgm: decays.  In this grove stands a kingly tree, ten feet in diameter and one hundred and fifty feet high, growing from the soil held among the roots of a fallen giant twenty-eight feet in diameter.  The fallen tree is almost perfectly sound.  By using as a standard the data obtained from the measurement of the felled tree in the Calaveras Grove, we are enabled to approximately determine the age <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:of this thrifty young Hercules, and to conjecture the length of time the trunk has lain there.  When the original "Mammoth Tree" in the other group had attained a diameter of ten feet, the rings declare that it was about one thousand years old.  Therefore, for ten centuries, with their various changes of climate, this great tree has lain prostrate, and the bark only has disappeared.  Using the same data to determine the age of the prostrate tree, we find that when it bowed before the tempest it was not less than two thousand years old.  More than three thousand years have therefore passed since the prostrate trunk began its career of growth.  What better place than the trunk of one of these young trees could be found in which to deposit the records of to-day.  They would remain there long after corner-stones had mouldered to powder, and the annals and learning of to-day had been handed to the <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"generations<LB>That, as yet unborn, are waiting<LB>In the great, mysterious darkness<LB>Of the speechless days that shall be."</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>Fire has held high carnival in this grove, as well as in all others.  Still, the proportionate amount of injury done here, compared with the number of trees, is much less than in the Calaveras Grove, and very much less than in that of Mariposa.</p><P>One tree, estimated to be three hundred and twenty-five feet high, contains at its base several burnt cavities, one of which measures seventeen feet by twenty-seven, and is about thirty feet in height.  Although the entire heart is destroyed and only the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:outer portion of the trunk remains, pierced by burnt openings that communicate with the chambers, this tree has a hearty life, and may continue to breast the storms long after the majority of those now living lie sleeping in forgotten graves.</p><P>Another giant, "Cyclops," has been greatly damaged.  The cavity in this tree is of sufficient size to contain eighteen horses.</p><P>Near the upper end of the grove there is another standing tree containing an immense cavity.  This, like all the others, is thrifty, and unless the arched opening that leads to the interior is seen, one would pronounce this tree uninjured.  The cavity, which is quite lofty, is twenty-seven by seventeen feet.  An old hunter and trapper--Andrew Jackson Smith--made this tree his home for a long time, and from this fact it bears the name, "Smith's Cabin."</p><P>Like the tree that was his abode, Smith is a curiosity.  Reared in the woods, he regards them as his own.  He is familiar with the beasts and birds in the vicinity of his adopted home, and describes them eloquently in his plain, homely language.  S. at one time cut bark in this grove for the proprietors, but at the time I met him he was splitting shakes on the San Antonio Creek, about a mile and a half from the Mammoth Grove Hotel.  He came one day to the hotel, bringing the nest of the Water Ousel ( <HI REND="italics">Hydrobata Mexicana</HI>
185.sgm: ), a member of the Thrush family, and was referred to the writer as a probable customer.  He told where he had found the nest, and complained of the wantonness with which fishermen destroy all they can reach with their poles.  He described how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:the mother builds her home of soft moss, under the ledges of rock where the constant dripping will keep it green, thus making the home cool and pleasant, and misleading the passer-by.  Five little ousels were in the nest.  When these would utter their plaintive "peep, peep," he would speak to them as tenderly and with as much solicitude as a mother to her rosy, dimpled infant.</p><P>One of the most remarkable objects in the grove is a prostrate trunk called "Noah's Ark."  This is nearly four hundred feet long and about thirty-five feet in diameter.  For over two hundred feet this trunk has been hollowed out by fire, and only a thin shell left uninjured.  Through this, for about half that distance, three horsemen may ride abreast.  The entrance is through an opening in the side, around which is a rank growth of beautiful wild flowers and feathery ferns.</p><P>Another fallen tree of note lies near "Smith's Cabin," and has been called the "Stable," from the fact that in the sides of the hollow extending about forty feet toward the top, pegs are driven, and there is sufficient room to fasten several horses.  But, it is not the burnt cavity that makes this tree so interesting.  The wood of the <HI REND="italics">Sequoia gigantea</HI>
185.sgm: being exceedingly brittle, almost all the fallen trees are more or less injured by the concussion.  The "Stable" is not in the least broken.  This would induce the belief that this tree fell at a different season, and under extraordinary circumstance.  The time of the fall was probably deep winter, and a heavy coat of snow, doubtless, lay on the ground, upon which it struck.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:The shock of the fall was, therefore, not severe, and the tree gradually sank through the yielding snow, until it lay uninjured at full length on the ground.  A fact in favor of this theory is that the trunk is not imbedded in the soil as is a fallen tree in almost every case, and frequently to the depth of several feet.</p><P>In this grove the proprietors cut the bark that is sold at the Mammoth Grove Hotel.  That here obtained is thick and of good quality--and equal, if not superior, to any found elsewhere in the groves, with the exception of that of a single tree, "Andrew Jackson," in the Mariposa Grove.  The bark from that tree is much finer in texture than any I have seen from other districts.  When the bark is sawed, it presents the appearance of fine velvet.</p><P>This grove differs from the one we have first described in many particulars.  While in the Calaveras group there are ninety-three trees, thirteen hundred and eighty have been counted here.  Fewer trees have been injured by fire and, with the exception of the instances mentioned, they have suffered but slightly.  The fallen trees in the South Grove are surprisingly few in number, compared with those in the Calaveras.  The number of baby trees is much greater here, and in some places they are exceedingly numerous.  At one place, where half the shell of a burnt out trunk lies on the ground, hundreds of these trees, from two to three inches to as many feet in height, line the side of the wreck and grow in a line through the center where the trunk has split apart, and left the ground exposed.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>One other distinguishing feature of this grove is its varied vegetation.  Under all the trees the ground is completely covered with a dense growth of flowers, vines, and ferns, which ordinarily grow to the height of about a foot.  By the sides of the fallen trunks, and where the ground contains the most moisture, the verdure, in its luxuriance, presents a tropical appearance.</p><P>Before me, as I write, is a little picture.  In the middle of the grove is a glassy pool, over which droop beautiful flowers, slender grasses, with large, full heads, and feathery ferns that lie on the surface of the water.  Behind the pool a sparkling little rill springs over a mossy bank, and pours liquid diamonds into the quiet waters below.  In the distance are long tree vistas, while over the pool slowly float great black butterflies, and a merry bird, after sipping the cool draught, carols forth his satisfaction, as he sits with half unfolded wings on a swaying spear of grass.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>MAMMOTH CAVE OF CALAVERAS.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P>CAVE City is seven miles north of Murphy's, and fourteen miles west of the Mammoth Trees.  At this town one of the detached masses of limestone before mentioned is found, and from the discovery of an extensive cave in this rock a few dilapidated houses located here derive a name.</p><P>Although this locality is not as generally visited as many other places, it is quite curious and interesting.  There are no means of reaching it but by private conveyance, and probably this fact more than any other has been the cause of its long obscurity.  A wagon road lies between this place and the Calaveras Grove, while it may also be reached by trail from Murphy's.  At either of these latter places horses for the trip can be procured.</p><P>Having determined to see this wonder, and as no one could be induced to accompany him, on a bright, clear morning, in early June, the writer set out alone on horseback to visit Cave City, and thence to proceed to Murphy's.</p><P>Having followed the main road to Murphy's for about a mile, I reached one (Dunbar's Road) which branches off to the right, and winding through a picturesque country finally unites with the old road at the half-way house.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>This road was followed for some distance and then abandoned for one which turned into a little valley on the right, through which flows the San Antonio.  This valley is divided from the one in which the Mammoth Grove is situated by the thickly wooded ridge that lies at the back of the hotel.  In this depression Dunbar's Mill formerly stood.  Now nothing remains as a landmark except a few burnt timbers, some scattered buildings, a great amount of refuse lumber, and part of a long flume.</p><P>From the "mill" I ascended the ridge to the west of the San Antonio, and for several miles traveled along the summit.  A fine growth of young pines perfumed the pleasant morning air.  Nothing disturbed the stillness but the occasional bleat of a sheep feeding in the valley below, or <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A song of birds and a sound of bees<LB>Above in the boughs of the sugar-pine."</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>So much that was beautiful was not to be passed, so my horse, unguided, unurged pursued his own pace.</p><P>As I reached an opening on the ridge an excellent view presented itself.  The day was hazy.  Features of the landscape that had been seen in clear daylight or bright moonlight, were now half mantled in shadow.  The high snow-clad peaks, pine-covered hills and quiet dales, the broad, brown valley, and the distant mountains that hold the westward ocean at bay, were all blended in one grand, glorious, harmonious picture that, once seen, can never be forgotten during life.  It was one of those views that forbid description.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:</PAGEINFO><P>After traversing the mountain ridge for several miles, I descended into a small green valley, and followed the bed of a dry creek for some distance.  Arriving at a roughly-constructed house, which bears the name Swiss Ranch, I found that I had added unnecessarily several miles to my journey by the route I had taken.  At Dunbar's Mill I should have turned to a ridge farther toward the left than the one I followed.</p><P>The only men I saw before reaching Swiss Ranch were herders, who were tending many thousands of sheep scattered throughout these hills, where the grazing was good.  They were waiting for the snow to melt and the grass to start on their "ranges" or pasture-lands high up among the mountains.</p><P>California is becoming an important wool-producing State.  In the central section of the State the sheep are mostly raised in the northern portion of the San Joaquin and the southern part of the Sacramento Valleys.  In most of this region by June the ground is dry and baked, and the grass dead.  No new supply is to come till the fall rains moisten the ground, in the crevices of which the wind has sown the seed, thus protected from countless swarms of little birds.  To obtain fresh feed the herders drive their flocks up into the valleys of the Sierra Nevada, where the grass is ever green and plentiful.  The shepherds have free use of this grass, as most of it grows on unsurveyed government land.</p><P>As the season advances the sheep are driven out of the mountains to escape the inclemency of the winter.  The loss to the flocks by these migrations is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:sometimes very great, being caused by over-driving and carelessness of the herders.  These men, being frequently hired by the month, often care little for the interests of their employers.  In order to protect themselves against these losses, some sheep owners build <HI REND="italics">corrals</HI>
185.sgm: and sheds in the mountain valleys, and there keep the sheep through the winter on hay cut in the vicinity.  Ordinarily money is saved by this method.</p><P>One winter, however, a few years ago, was very severe.  The owner of large flocks had gathered his sheep into ample sheds, stored with what was considered a very abundant supply of hay.  The rigor and long continuance of the winter exhausted the feed supply, and nearly all the flock perished.</p><P>From Swiss Ranch (so named in honor of a few Swiss who reside there) a rough and poorly-marked trail leads over the mountains about three miles to Cave City.  It was near noon, and many miles yet lay between me and Murphy's.  It seemed, therefore, inexpedient to try this trail and run the risk of being obliged to abandon the way through the chaparral, and to return to the main road.  Therefore, I followed the road to El Dorado, distant about six miles, and then traveled back to Cave City, three miles farther.</p><P>It is half-past two when I reach El Dorado.  I enter the only saloon in the place.  A large room contains a very dilapidated billiard-table.  A poor apology for a counter stands in one corner.  Behind this a dozen bottles, partly filled with cheap liquor, are ranged along a shelf.  The paper on the walls is extremely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:fragmentary and dirty.  At a round table on one side of the room sit two roughly-dressed, ill-looking men.  A pack of greasy cards, with worn corners and edges, lies on the table.  An old man enters with gray beard and halting step.  The Rip Van Winkle of the Sierras, awakened from the sleep of many years, seems to stand before me.  How well does Irving's description apply to him: "Having nothing to do at home, and being arrived at that happy age when a man can be idle with impunity, he took his place once more on the bench at the inn door, and was reverenced as one of the patriarchs of the village, and a chronicler of the old times."  The two men, who had in turn been silently fingering the dilapidated cards, requested Uncle Bill--for such his name proved to be--to join them in play.  His clear eyes understood the speech which the deafened ears refused to admit, and he joined them in a silent game of "seven-up."  After a few moments, I withdrew, leaving them to the reflections which the magic of the cards and the surroundings might recall respecting the busy days when the large bar-room was filled with a jolly, noisy throng that adverse fortune had scattered.</p><P>Along the way from El Dorado to Cave City were many mining ditches through which the thick yellow water ran slowly.  On the left were numerous hydraulic mines, in some of which men were working.</p><P>The town is at the bottom of a valley through which extends a broad belt of limestone.  Great boulders are piled here in fantastic forms.  One rock on the top of a limestone mass resembles, in a remarkable degree, a carved lion of some old Oriental city.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Cave City contains scarcely more than a dozen buildings, and several of these are vacant.  The appellation "city" is, therefore, a misnomer.  There did not appear to be more than fifteen people in the place, Chinamen included, and not more than one-third of these were at work.  With all its drawbacks the town has still some advantages which more flourishing ones do not possess.  The first man I met was the one whom I was seeking (Mr. Geo. E. Nicholas, proprietor of the cave), and as he was doing nothing he had plenty of time to give to me.</p><P>Reaching the entrance of the cave, Mr. N. pointed out a spot where a hotel formerly stood, which has been entirely destroyed by fire.  His house now serves in place of a hotel, and, unless the travel greatly increases, will prove a sufficiently extensive caravansarie for years to come.</p><P>Unlocking the door built over one of the apertures and lighting our candles we begin our exploration.  The first twenty or thirty feet are rather difficult to travel.  The passage is not unlike a natural staircase, being a crevice that has been enlarged by blasting.  Here, as throughout the entire cave, we are at times forced to stoop low, in order to avoid large masses of projecting rock.  At the foot of the steep narrow passage we rest a moment that our eyes may become familiar with the darkness.  Here our guide gave an account of the discovery and exploration of this place.</p><P>The cave was discovered by accident in the fall of 1850.  After dinner, some miners were shooting at a target near by.  One of the party proposed a longer <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:range, and was seeking a tree on which to place a mark, when he came to an opening in the rock.  An exploration was made, and the cave was soon opened to the public.</p><P>Since its discovery, although many persons have visited it, tourists have not generally made this cave a place of resort, as it is off the main course of travel.  The amount of money obtained from visitors has not warranted a great outlay, and much remains to be done in blasting new passages to chambers yet unexplored, and in improving the means of communication between those already opened.</p><P>Probably as interesting a room as any is the "Odd Fellows' Hall."  Here is a slab about ten feet square, uneven on the upper face, but perfectly smooth and level on the under surface.  This slab is not more than ten inches thick at the edge and extends directly from the wall at a point about two feet above the floor of the room.  When struck, it gives out a dull ringing sound, while it is so firm and solid that it will support a great weight.  "The goat," so called, is found at the back of this slab, in a passage that leads to a chamber not yet fully explored, but of great beauty.  This "goat" is a mass of rock which strikingly resembles that animal in size and shape.</p><P>In one chamber a calcareous formation presents the appearance of a water-fall, and has been called the "Cataract."  From a point apparently far beyond that to which the dim light of our candles can pierce there seems to proceed a foaming mass of water, dashing silently down from ledge to ledge.  So nearly does this mass of limestone resemble a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:cascade with its foam and sparkling drops that it is with difficulty we are convinced that the illusion is not a reality.</p><P>One room has received the name, "The Cathedral," so accurate is the likeness to one of those grand buildings through whose long drawn aisles for centuries have floated hymns and dirges.  Gothic windows are around us, and the vaulted roof rises high into the mantling darkness.</p><P>Caves generally have a "Bridal Chamber," and this is not without one.  In this room the cold, gray walls are covered with a delicate tracery of stalactites, while around the ceiling, and here and there along the sides, heavy, snowy draperies, conceal or relieve the sharp outlines elsewhere found.</p><P>While the "Bridal Chamber" is beautiful, apartments are found here which are dreary and repulsive.  There are rooms whose naked walls remind one painfully of-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Chillon's dungeons deep and old,<LB>Dim with a dull imprisoned ray,<LB>A sunbeam which hath lost its way,<LB>And through the crevice and the cleft<LB>Of the thick wall is fallen and left;<LB>Creeping o'er the floor so damp,<LB>Like a marsh's meteor lamp.</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>Perhaps the most curious chamber is the "Music Hall."  On one side stands a peculiarly-shaped rock that answers the purpose of a sounding board.  From this hangs a row of stalactites.  At one end of the room they are small, but gradually increase in size <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:and length as they near the opposite extremity.  These differ from ordinary stalactites in that they are flat, from a quarter to half an inch in thickness, and appear to be folded together in such a manner as to resemble box-plaiting.  When these pendants are properly struck with the fingers, or with a stick or a stone, a clear musical sound is produced.  Each stalactite gives out a different tone, so that a musician can play almost any tune on these natural keys.</p><P>One chamber contains a lake of fair proportions, while in another a well, said to be over a hundred feet deep, has been discovered.  The water, which is quite pleasant to the taste, is coated over with a thin scum that causes it to resemble in color the floor of the cave.  Had not timely warning been given by the guide as we neared the well, the consequences might have been unpleasant.</p><P>Almost every apartment is entirely different from the others.  Some of the rooms have walls of bare bluish-gray limestone, while others are resplendent with countless stalactites and stagamites of various forms.  The ceilings of some of the rooms are perfectly smooth, and look as if they had been smoothed with a trowel when in a plastic state.  In some of the chambers we find cracks that extend to the surface of the earth, and admit a dim, unnatural light.  Through some of these clefts seeds have fallen into the cave and are striving to grow against most adverse circumstances.  On an old ladder near one of these openings, beautiful white <HI REND="italics">fungi</HI>
185.sgm: were growing, so delicate that a breath was sufficient to destroy some of them.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>The floors of the cave are mostly of the native earth, a yellowish clay, while many of the walls are of the same material, either partially or wholly coated with lime formations.</p><P>It would seem that in some mighty convulsion, these masses of limestone were greatly rent.  Through the fissures thus formed water has coursed for a long time, wearing out the chambers and passages, sculpturing the walls, and leaving the deposit of clay that forms the floors.  Since then, from moment to moment, the dripping process has continued, each little drop contributing to build up fantastic forms, or to restore those that vandal visitors have partially destroyed.</p><P>I left Cave City as the sun was nearing the horizon, and a ride of two hours brought me to Murphy's.  The trail passes through a pleasing country.  The hills are very steep, and are furrowed along their sides by a net-work of ditches.  In the valleys fertile spots surround scattered houses, while here and there winding roads lead to towns nestling among the rolling hills.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.<LB>GOLD MINES<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Gold is the strength, the sinews of the world;<LB>The health, the soul, the beauty most divine;<LB>A mask of gold hides all deformities.</HI>
185.sgm:<P>BEFORE beginning that part of our journey which leads through the extensive mining district lying all around us, and stretching far away along our route to the Yosemite, it will not be out of place to take a comprehensive view of this section.</p><P>In regard to the extent of the gold field in California and the geology of this region, I will quote from the report of the Commissioner of the State at the Paris Exposition of 1867:</p><P>"The principal gold region of California is upon the western slope of the mountain chain of the Sierra Nevada, and is nearly co-incident with it in extent.  Commencing at the south in Tulare and Kern counties, nearly under the parallel of 35&deg;, it extends northwards through the whole range of counties of the State to the Oregon line--the parallel of 42&deg;--thus extending over seven degrees of latitude, or about 500 miles.</p><P>"The great bulk of the gold is, however, obtained from the central counties: Mariposa, Tuolumne, Calaveras, Amador, El Dorado, Placer, Nevada, Sierra, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Yuba, Butte, and Plumas, lying between the parallels of 37&deg; and 40&deg;.  This is the region of the most extensive and productive placers.  Gold is also found upon the coast in Del Norte County, and at several places in the Coast mountains southward.</p><P>"At San Francisquito, in Santa Barbara county, south of the main gold field, placer gold was discovered as early as 1838, and gold was known to exist along the Colorado river as early as 1775.  Gold is not confined to the western water-shed of the Sierra, for it is found at many places on the eastern side as well as near the summit."****</p><P>"The principal rocks of the gold belt on the west slope are clay-slates, sandstones, and conglomerates of the Secondary period, uplifted at high angles and dipping east.  They are generally much altered--metamorphosed--and are associated with serpentine; also a metamorphic rock.  Gold-bearing veins occur in or are closely associated with all these rocks, and in hard and compact granite, in greenstone and dioritic rocks, and in dolomite and metamorphic limestones.  They are found even in the partially metamorphosed stratified formations of the Cretaceous period in the Coast mountains, and they may also be found in the Tertiary strata."</p><P>"The gold-bearing veins of California are largest and most extensive in the region of the metamorphosed Secondary rocks.  They generally conform to the dip and strike of the strata, and vary in width from a few inches to 20 or 30 feet.  When they traverse granite or metamorphic rocks, in which the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:stratification is nearly or quite obliterated, they are generally narrower and more uniform in width than when in the softer rocks or slates.  The most extensive vein of the State, and perhaps in the world, is known among the miners as the `Mother vein,' and extends, but with some considerable breaks and interruptions, from Mariposa northwestward for 80 or 100 miles, following a zone or belt of Jurassic slates and sandstones, and closely associated with a stratum of dolomite or magnesian rock, often a magnesite, filled with reticulations of quartz veins, and charged with pyrites.  The outcrops of this rock are generally very rusty and porous in consequence of the decomposition of the pyrites, and show green films of an earthy mineral containing chromium.</p><P>"Nearly all of the auriferous veins of California are composed of white, or bluish-white quartz, with, in general, not over two per cent. of sulphurets.  These sulphurets are chiefly ordinary iron pyrites, with, occasionally, a little galena and blend.  In some veins iron pyrites is replaced by arsenical pyrites or mispickel."*******</p><P>"The average fineness of California gold was formerly about .885.  For a few years past it has not averaged so high, ranging from .865 to .870, and containing about one per cent. of the base metals; its composition being, nearly, .87 gold, .12 silver, and .01 base metals.  This decrease of fineness is due, undoubtedly, to the increased quantity of gold from veins, and, perhaps, to the mingling of gold from Idaho, which contains a large amount of silver."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>The auriferous belt in California is so extensive, that, in common description, it has been divided into two districts, denominated, respectively, the Northern and Southern Mines, although the exact location of the dividing line is uncertain.  This latter section is thus described by R. W. Raymond, U.S. Commissioner of Mining Statistics:<ANCHOR ID="n9-1">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1">Silver and Gold, Rossiter W. Raymond, Ph. D. N.Y., 1873, p. 46.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"The term `southern mines' is an indefinite one, but is generally understood to embrace the country between the Cosumnes River on the north and the Chowchilla River on the south, a distance of one hundred miles, and to include the counties of Mariposa, Tuolumne, Calaveras and Amador.  In width the mineral belt extends from the eastern edge of the San Joaquin Valley to an average altitude of 2,500 on the Sierras, a distance of forty miles east and west, thus embracing an area of 4,000 square miles.</p><P>"This region of country was the scene of the earliest mining operations in California, as the surface placers were here more accessible and productive than further north; and within its limits are found the once populous and thriving mining towns of Mokelumne Hill, Columbia, Sonora, and Mariposa.  Its population, as estimated in 1851, by Abbe&acute; Alric, then parish priest of Sonora, was not less than 50,000, nearly all of whom were engaged in mining.</p><P>"This extensive territory is cut and eroded to great depths by four principal streams, running from east to west, and crossing the course of the ancient streams, viz: the Merced, Tuolumne, Stanislaus, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Mokelumne Rivers, which, with their tributaries, have acted as distributors of the auriferous deposits, and carried the gold from its original place of deposit to the banks and bars which yielded such enormous sums during the early days of mining.  The waters of these rivers have since been diverted into ditches and flumes for mining purposes, and their principal tributaries run dry in the summer, giving the country a parched and desolate appearance during the greater part of the year.</p><P>"Within the area above described, scarcely a square mile can be found in which, even at this late day, a `prospect' cannot be obtained, although placer mining, as a business, has ceased to yield large returns, except in the opening of new ground at points where water has been lately brought in, or in the development of the ancient channels.  Superficial placer, as well as river and bar-mining, may be considered as practically exhausted, although operations are still prosecuted, on a small scale, on the limestone belt, and on the rivers during the short season of abundant water.</p><P>"The principal mineral resources of the southern mines, at the present time, are vein-mining in the gold-bearing quartz belts, and gravel-mining on the ancient channels."</p><P>At present placer mining has indeed well-nigh eased.  Through the auriferous belt Chinamen, with their rockers, pick up scanty gleanings after the golden harvest that the white miner long ago gathered.  The white-veined rock now reluctantly gives up its golden flakes under the pulverizing energy of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:the mill.  What a transition from the comparatively easy labor of the pick, shovel, and pan, to the complicated engineering and exact mechanism of the twenty, forty, or sixty-stamp quartz-mill!</p><P>Extending through the Southern Mining District is one of the most wonderful quartz-veins in the world.  This is called the "Mother lode."  R. W. Raymond writes.<ANCHOR ID="n9-2">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "The Mother lode of California is a vein, or, more properly, a series of veins of quartz which has been traced on a longitudinal line, with occasional interruptions, for a length of about seventy-five miles, from Bear Valley, Mariposa County, to Amador City, Amador County.  Throughout the entire distance it has a general north-west and south-east course, and an almost uniform dip to the north-east of eighty degrees."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-2">Silver and Gold.  R. W. Raymond. pp. 48-49.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"The most southerly well-defined out-crop of this remarkable vein is at the Pine Tree and Josephine mines, on the Mariposa estate, at an elevation of about 2,500 feet above sea-level.  From this point it takes a north-west direction, striking across the numerous spurs of the Sierras which form the divides between the Tuolumne, Stanislaus, and Mokelumne Rivers, and their tributaries, and terminates in the foot-hills of Amador County, the most northerly deep-developed claims being the original Amador and Keystone, at Amador City, although many locations between these mines and the Cosumnes River are supposed to be on the same lode.  Beyond the Cosumnes the lode is not traceable.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>"Between its southern and northern extremities it is frequently broken up and lost (invariably so at the intersection of the principal rivers), making its appearance again at a distance of several miles, frequently in the form of a solid wall of quartz on the summits of isolated hills on the line of its strike, these croppings being visible for many miles.  The most prominent of these hills are Pin&tilde;on Blanco, Quartz Mountain, Whisky Hill, and Carson Hill."</p><P>"The longest break of the lode is between Angel's and Jackson, a distance of twenty-three miles, on which only one mine, the Paloma, near the south bank of the Mokelumne River, is generally acknowledged to be on the lode, though recent discoveries tend to prove the continuity of the lode between these points.  At various other points the lode `dive's for several miles, and at one point, between Whisky Hill and the Rawhide mine, it is covered by the lava flow which constitutes Table Mountain."</p><P>J. Ross Browne writes:<ANCHOR ID="n9-3">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "The Mother lode is in many respects the most remarkable metalliferous vein in the world.  Others have produced and are producing more, but no other has been traced so far, has so many peculiar features, has exercised so much influence on the topography of the country about it, or has been worked with a profit in so many places.  The great argentiferous lodes of Mexico and South America, the most productive of precious metal of all known in history, can be followed not more than six <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:or eight miles; while this California vein is distinctly traceable on the surface***more than sixty miles."***"The chief peculiarities of the Mother lode are its great length, its great thickness, its uniform character, the near proximity of large companion veins, of which at least one is usually talcose, and the richness of the talcose veins."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-3">Resources of the Pacific Slope.  J. Ross Browne.  S.F., 1869. pp. 14, 15.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>There are in this section other quartz mines than those on the Mother lode.  An extensive series of veins exist on the Sierra at an altitude of about 4,000 feet.  Raymond writes:<ANCHOR ID="n9-4">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "The veins here present many striking features of interest.  Like many of the most noted veins in California, they occur in fissures which have been opened in the earth's crust by the rending asunder of the rock formation across its stratification.  The country rock is slate.  This contains numerous dikes of traps, porphyritic green-stone, etc., occupying fissures which run transversely across the slate.  There are several parallel fissures, nearly vertical, having a course of N. 40&deg; E., with very solid and smooth walls, and from five to twelve feet wide.  In these occur the quartz veins, the quartz occupying only a portion of the space (three to nine feet), the balance being filled by an accompanying vein matter differing from the country rock, and not found outside of the fissure walls.  The whole of this vein matter is full of base metals, particularly the sulphurets of iron, deposited in a way that indicates a previous state of solution, or possibly vapor; for besides beig disseminated throughout the body of the rock, the faces of broken pieces, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:which had no seams visible to the eye, are often found coated with particles of metal, forming flakes which can be removed with a knife-blade.  All of this material contains some gold, but the pay-rock proper occurs in chutes of a peculiar kind of quartz, which is held by many of the miners to belong to the true chimneys of the precious metals.  It is so thoroughly impregnated with the various base metals, especially the sulphurets of iron, lead, and zinc, that not an ounce of it can be found destitute of these.  The gold is diffused in fine particles through the ore, as if an element of its composition.  The ore in these lodes is of high grade."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-4">Silver and Gold.  R. W. Raymond.  pp. 50-51</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Extending through the entire Californian gold region, at various depths beneath the present surface, the beds of an extensive system of water-courses, called by some "Dead Rivers," have been traced.  The beds of these former streams furnish some of the richest placer diggings in the State.  To fully understand the geological formation of these interesting localities, it will be necessary to imagine, by the help of geology, an ancient landscape, and to trace the various changes that have occurred to the time that the scenery of the present day spreads itself before us.</p><P>Writing of this former time, John Muir uses the following words:<ANCHOR ID="n9-5">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "In the beginning of the long glacial winter, the lofty Sierra seems to have consisted of one vast undulated wave, in which a thousand separate mountains, with their domes and spires, their innumerable can&tilde;ons and lake basins, lay <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:concealed.  In the development of these, the Master Builder chose for a tool, not the earthquake, nor lightning to rend and split asunder, nor the stormy torrent, nor eroding rain, but the tender snow-flowers, noiselessly falling through unnumbered seasons, the offspring of the sun and sea.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-5">Overland Monthly, Vol. XII, pp. 393, 394.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"When the great cycle of icy years was nearly accomplished, the glacial mantle began to shrink along the bottom; domes and crests rose like islets above its white surface; long, dividing ridges, began to appear, and distinct glacier rivers flowed between.  These gradually became feeble and torpid.  Frost-enduring carices and hardy pines pushed upward along every moraine and sun-warmed slope, closing steadily upon the retreating glaciers, which, like shreds of summer clouds, at length disappeared from the young and sunny landscape."</p><P>The frigid winter was terminated.  The ice sheet had completed its mission of grinding, crushing, and breaking.  Ice streams had continued the work of mountain sculpture.  Their task was finished.  Rivers of water were completing the allotted labor.  At this time hundreds of peaks in the Sierra Nevada burst into active volcanoes, and ruddy streams of lava ploughed their courses through the still lingering snows on the mountain sides.  Converging, and following the beds of the former rivers of ice, these streams of molten matter lapped up the water flowing there, and filled the atmosphere with clouds of steam.  Over immense tracts animal and vegetable life was completely destroyed.  Gradually the lava cooled.  A more terrible scene of devastation, a more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:impressive desolation, it would be difficult to conceive.<ANCHOR ID="n9-6">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-6">A larger lava-flow of the same character took place further north, and is thus described by Joseph Le Conte, Professor of Geology in the University of California.--Proceedings of the California Academy of Sciences, Vol. V, p. 215.  "Issuing from fissures in the Cascade and Blue Mountain ranges, it spread over nearly the whole of Oregon, Washington, and Idaho, and far into California on the south, Montana on the east, and British Columbia on the north.  Its area is certainly 200,000 to 300,000 square miles.  Its thickness in the axis of the Cascade Mountains, where it is cut through by the Columbia River, is more than 3,500 feet.  The section shown by the Des Chutes River, fifty miles from the axis, is 2,000 to 3,000 feet.  The average thickness over the whole Cascade region (100,000 square miles) is probably not less than 2,000 feet."</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The steam which had been generated by the heated lava in contact with the water of lakes and rivers, gradually collecting, formed large clouds, which, becoming at last overcharged, copious rains were poured down on the cooling mass.  For a time the water was vaporized almost as soon as it touched the heated rock.  At length, as the lava-flow decreased in temperature, ever-enlarging pools accumulated in the depressions.  The cooled lava was harder than the dividing ridges which formerly lay between the streams whose courses it had filled, so that in seeking its way to the ocean the water wore for itself courses through the less solid matter.<ANCHOR ID="n9-7">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-7">Professor Whitney estimates the amount of denudation which has taken place in this section since the great lava-flow at not less than 3,000 or 4,000 feet of vertical height.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Thus it happens that the streams of the present day do not pursue the courses which the ancient rivers followed.  Here, also, we discover the origin of the lone basaltic mountains, which have received the designation, Table Mountains.  They are the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:streams of lava which flowed between hills that have since been worn away.  On our ride to the Yosemite we will travel many miles with one of these lava ridges in view.</p><P>Among the sand and gravel of these ancient, or "Dead" rivers, great amounts of gold have been obtained.  At Table Mountain, and in that vicinity, tunnels are pushed under the lava, and the auriferous gravel is mined out.</p><P>These extinct rivers ran generally parallel to the direction of the mountain range, and in some places at almost right angles to many of the present streams.  Their course may be traced by the stumps of trees imbedded in the sand, while their size and velocity can be estimated by the broad belts of water-rounded cobble-stones and pebbles which mark their track.</p><P>John S. Hittell, speaking of one of these rivers, says:<ANCHOR ID="n9-8">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "The greatest dead river of California, in length, breadth, depth, and wealth, is `The Dead Blue River,' as I call it.  Some gentlemen, connected with the State Geological Survey, have denied the correctness of my assertion, that there is such a stream; and they claim that the gravel deposits which I include in it, were not made in a river-bed; but I adhere to my opinion.  A line of placer mining towns extends from Forest Hill, on the southern line of Placer County, to the northern line of Sierra County, a distance of sixty-five miles in a north-north-west direction, intersected by the live streams, some of which run in can&tilde;ons 2,000 feet deep.  These towns are situated at the points where the auriferous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:deposits of the Dead Blue River are accessible.  The gravel is uniform in its character, and rich wherever the lower strata have been reached.  The name was suggested by the general bluish color of the sand mixed with the pebbles and boulders, most of which are of quartz.  The term `gravel' is applied to the material found in these dead rivers, though in it we often find boulders a foot, or three feet, or six feet through.  The lower the strata, as a general rule, the larger, rougher, or less regular the pieces of stone.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-8">Resources of California.  J. S. Hittell.  6th edition.  pp. 338, 339.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"The abundance of quartz in the Dead River is astonishing and inexplicable.  In the large live streams running through the quartz districts we find, perhaps one per cent, or one-fifth of one per cent. of the gravel and boulders composed of quartz, and we know that in the rock eroded by the live streams running down the Sierra Nevada, quartz does not form one-twentieth of one per cent.  But in the Dead Blue River, we find that fifty or seventy per cent. of the gravel is quartz.  And its absolute quantity is not less wonderful than the proportion.  The Dead Blue River contains a hundred fold more quartz in its pebbles and boulders than we could get from all the known quartz veins in the Sierra Nevada, if we should dig them out through their entire length to the depth of a mile.</p><P>"This Pliocene river was a quarter of a mile wide on an average, was parallel with the Sacramento, but fifty miles farther east, and carried ten or twenty times as much water.  The current ran southwards, as that of the Sacramento does.  We know this fact from the present elevations, from the manner in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:which the flat boulders lie pointing down stream, from the direction in which the branches--which, like the main stream, are filled with gravel--enter it, from water-worn pieces of driftwood, and from drift trees with the tops pointing down stream.  We find such marks in live streams, and they cannot be attributed in the Dead Blue, as it is sometimes called, to any influence save that of a strong current flowing southward.</p><P>"It was a stream of wonderful force, far exceeding in power any of its size now known.  The miners find strata of boulders, many of which weigh a ton, deposited over a width of a quarter of a mile, and a length of sixty miles; above that is another stratum of boulders, in which half-a-ton is a common weight, and so on, until ten feet above the bed-rock we find boulders a foot through.  We do not know, nor are we justified in supposing, that the Columbia or Mississippi could distribute such boulders with such regularity.  The entire depth of the gravel is from 200 to 400 feet, averaging 300.</p><P>"The bed of the Dead Blue, at Forest Hill, is 2,700 feet, and at Little Grizzly, the most northern point to which it has been distinctly traced, 4,700 feet high--a descent of 2,000 feet in 65 miles, or 37 feet in a mile.  A fall of five feet in a mile makes a swift river; with one foot in a mile, a canal eats away its banks.  The country in which the Dead Blue runs has been raised by subterranean forces, or contractions of the earth's crust, and the upper end may have been elevated more than the lower; though the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:Sierra Nevada down to 36&deg; has been raised more than that to the northward.</p><P>"North of Sierra County, the Dead Blue River is covered with lava, or otherwise hidden, while south of Placer, it has been washed away or covered with later alluvium."</p><P>In regard to this interesting subject, Prof. George Davidson, writes:<ANCHOR ID="n9-9">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-9">Proceedings California Academy of Sciences.  Vol. V., p. 146.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"So far as I have examined them, I see in these great gravel deposits the result of one mode of production.</p><P>"The `hydraulic' method of working is being pursued systematically and with increased intelligence, so that in a few years we shall be able to trace the bedrock over areas sufficient to determine what was the power of disintegration and of subsequent movement.</p><P>"My examinations were made incidentally in the course of more urgent duties, and were limited; but, so far as they went, I became satisfied that the chief power in disintegrating the materials and moving them was that of glaciers, aided in small amount by the water from the ice.</p><P>"At Smartsville, there is a hill of auriferous gravel over 400 feet in height, lying between the hills of rock that have not `the color' of gold about them; these rocks are not of a character to retain for ages the marks of ice-action, and are, moreover, rarely exposed.  The gravel about Smartsville is cemented together so compactly as to require the use of gunpowder to shake and shatter great masses sufficiently to be acted upon by hydraulic piping with a head of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:two hundred and fifty feet.  Through the cemented mass are found fossilized oak trees of two and three feet diameter, and a close-grained tree completely blackened, and reaching fifteen feet in diameter.</p><P>"So far as I could judge from its position and configuration, this hill formed a great glacial terminal moraine.  I could not see how the action of water could produce it, or leave it where it was: the gravel, boulders, and cement do not bear the appearance of being formed by moving waters; and the gold particles, instead of being rounded, are flattened.  Nor could I see how volcanic action could account for it; tufaceous lava may be part of the cementing material, but I could not appreciate it.  Higher up this ancient bed, there are said to be no gravel deposits for fourteen miles; but I had neither time nor opportunity to examine their relation to the adjacent hills.</p><P>"At Cherokee Flat, Dr. Waldehr, Superintendent of one of the gravel mines, assured me that in running a tunnel for their work upon the bed-rock, he has detected well-marked glacial markings."</p><P>I cannot better close this chapter than by quoting the following passages, in regard to the "origin of gold nuggets and gold dust," from an article written by Mr. Andrew Murray, F.L.S., published in the London Scientific Opinion, in 1870, and inserted by Commissioner Raymond in his volume, "Mines, Mills and Furnaces:"<ANCHOR ID="n9-10">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-10">Pp. 508-509.</NOTE>
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185.sgm:<P>"The origin of gold nuggets and gold dust is not so simple or clear as at first sight it appears to be.  The natural explanation of the production of gold dust is, that it is the golden portion of the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm: of rocks, which have originally had gold disseminated through them.  As the wear and tear of ages have crumbled into dust mountains so composed, part of the dust becomes sand, or quartz, or whatever else the basis of the rock may be, and the other part is the liberated gold, from which the quartz has been rubbed away; and if we accept this as the explanation of the production of gold dust, the same hypothesis should explain that of gold nuggets, which are found associated with it.  But there are various circumstances which it is difficult to reconcile with this theory.  One of these is the occurrence in the drift of nuggets of a larger size and less intermixed with foreign substances than have yet been discovered in any quartz reef; as most people are aware, the gold in reefs is usually disseminated in particles and strings through the quartz-veins or rock, instead of lying in pockets or masses.  Another still more remarkable fact, applicable both to gold dust and gold nuggets, is that alluvial gold is generally of a higher standard than that obtained from the reefs.  It is needless to say that if it is merely the gold washed or crumbled out of these reefs, it ought to be of identically the same standard and quality.  Another objection to the dust being merely the degraded particles released from the rock, is the size of the particles--not nuggets, but particles of dust.  Gold being so much softer than quartz, its particles, after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:being subjected to the same degree of attrition, ought to be vastly smaller.  Although of greater toughness than quartz, and possessed of ductility and tenacity, which quartz wholly wants, it is very soft, and, under the influence of the attrition from running water and its accompaniments, ought to be pounded and torn into the minutest fragments; but this is not so.  There is, moreover, a marked difference in the appearance of the gold dust from different drifts in different countries.  In some it is like dust or sand, in others it is like scales.  If subjected to the same influences in all, there seems no reason why the same shape should not obtain in all cases.</p><P>"These peculiarities would suggest that some other influence than mere degradation of gold-charged rocks has been the agent in producing gold dust; but in any and every view, we think it cannot be disputed that degradation must have had some share in the work.  It is plain that if a gold-charged rock is reduced to gravel, sand, or powder, particles of gold, of some size or other, or gold in some shape or other, must form part of the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm:.  These gold remnants should be found in greater quantity, and in greater size, the nearer they lie to the source from which they were drawn, and this we believe also to be the case.***We imagine that the truth will be found to be that the result is referable to two causes, only one of which may in some cases have been present, in others, both.  The first, the ordinary process of degradation and grinding the rocks to fragments; the other, as suggested by Mr. Selwyn, the government geologist of Victoria, that gold has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:also been taken up in solution by the water permeating the gold-bearing rocks, and that in passing through the drift, in which minute particles of gold lay, it has, from some cause, become decomposed, and the gold held in solution been precipitated and deposited around the most congenial <HI REND="italics">nuclei</HI>
185.sgm: presented to it, which would undoubtedly generally be the particles or pieces of reef-gold, or any other metallic substances for which it had an affinity.</p><P>"We find an interesting paper on this subject in the Transactions of the Royal Society of Victoria, 1867, by Mr. C. Wilkinson, in which he mentions some facts bearing on the subject.  It appears that Mr. Daintree, formerly of the geological survey of Victoria, had on one occasion prepared for photographic uses a solution of chloride of gold, leaving in it a small piece of metallic gold undissolved.  Accidentally some extraneous substance, supposed to be a piece of cork, had fallen into the solution, decomposing it, and causing the gold to precipitate, which made a deposit in the metallic state, as in the electroplating process, around the small piece of undissolved gold, increasing it in size to two or three times its original dimensions.  Considering this accidental experiment of Mr. Daintree's as in some measure supporting Mr. Selwyn's theory, Mr. Wilkinson followed it up by a few simple experiments in the same direction, which he details in his paper.  In his experiments a small chip of wood was generally used as the decomposing agent.  In one instance he used a piece of leather.  All through the wood and leather gold was disseminated in fine particles, and, when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:cut through, the characteristic metallic luster was highly reflected.  From various experiments it would appear that organic matter is the necessary chemical agent for decomposing a solution of the chloride of gold in order to precipitate the gold as a coherent coating around a nucleus; and that, so far as Mr. Wilkinson had yet tried, iron, copper and arsenical pyrites, galena, antimony, molybdenite, blende, wolfram, and metallic gold constitute essentially favorable <HI REND="italics">nuclei</HI>
185.sgm: to determine this chemical reaction.  It is to be observed, too, that organic substances, such as fragments of wood, roots of trees, etc., occur abundantly in the gold drifts of Australia.<ANCHOR ID="n9-11">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: If water holding gold in solution circulates through the rocks and drifts, all the conditions necessary for the production of gold dust and nuggets by deposit are present."</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-11">The fossil trees in the hydraulic mines at Dutch Flat and in other parts of the State are so abundant that they form a serious impediment to the miner.--C.B.T.</NOTE>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.<LB>GOLD MINING.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P>IN California, where mining has been the leading, and sometimes, almost the only industry, the tourist naturally desires a clear and concise statement of the means employed in obtaining the precious metal.  The following table may aid him:</p><P>GOLD MINES IN CALIFORNIA ARE:</p><P>Placer--gold imbedded in clay, sand, gravel.</p><P>Quartz--metal encased in rock.</p><P>We will in this volume treat only of the former.</p><P>PLACER MINES ARE:</p><P>Shallow--"pay-dirt" near surface.</p><P>Deep--"pay-dirt" over twenty feet beneath surface.</p><P>LOCATIONS OF "SHALLOW MINES."</p><P>Beds of ravines, or gulches; shallow flats; sand bars in rivers.</p><P>LOCATIONS OF "DEEP MINES."</p><P>Hills, deep flats.</p><P>Placer mines are also classed according to topographical position, and the methods employed in working them.</p><P>TOPOGRAPHICAL CLASSIFICATION.</p><P>Hill Claims--"pay-dirt" in, or under a hill.</p><P>Flat Claims--"pay-dirt" found on flats.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Bench Claims--"pay-dirt" found in narrow tableland on hill-side, above a river.</p><P>Gulch Claims--"pay-dirt" found in gullies destitute of water during part of the year.</p><P>Bar Claims--gold in low collections of sand, or gravel, in rivers--exposed at low water.</p><P>River-bed Claims--gold in beds of rivers--access gained by turning river from its course.</p><P>Ancient River-bed Claims--gold found in beds of rivers now extinct.</p><P>OPERATIVE CLASSIFICATION.</p><P>Sluice Claims--worked with sluices.</p><P>Hydraulic Claims--worked by hydraulic power.</p><P>Tunnel Claims--auriferous earth taken out of tunnels and subsequently washed.</p><P>Dry Diggings--earth excavated in summer and washed in winter, when water is plenty.</p><P>Dry Washing--fine soil blown away, leaving the gold.</p><P>Knife Claims--gold dug from crevices with knife, or spoon.</p><P>The gold was probably all originally encased in veins, which varied in width and extent in different localities.  The breaking and grinding of the glacial epoch, and the disintegration of more recent ages, has partially or wholly freed the gold from its rocky bonds.  The eroding streams have dislodged the particles of gold from the place where they were previously deposited, and have carried them with the current until some rock, sand-bar, or hollow basin, has offered them a resting place.  Here we find the principles of the two kinds of mining which have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:been employed in California.  The glacier was the prototype of the quartz mill; while aqueous erosion is but Nature's system of hydraulic, or placer mining.</p><P>The present streams still continue their work of depositing the foreign matter which, either by natural causes, or the labor of man, enters their waters.  The nature of the substances which the current carries down stream regulates, in a great measure, the manner and location of deposit.  If large boulders are transported, they are pushed by the current along the bed of the stream until they reach a point where they successfully resist the diminished force of the water, or become lodged against some impediment in the stream-bed.  If logs, or tree trunks, are carried away, they float on the surface until the stream widens and becomes so shallow that they are imbedded in the bottom, or on the banks.  When boulders, or tree-trunks, lodge at the bottom of a stream, they form <HI REND="italics">nuclei</HI>
185.sgm: for collections of pebbles, sand, or mud, and begin the formation of sand-banks and bars.  When logs lodge in such a manner that they permit stony and earthy matter to pass by them, and only intercept objects floating on the surface, they produce the snags which interfere with inland navigation, and form the jams on logging streams.  Thus river-bars are formed around a nucleus--either organic, or inorganic.  The coarser gravel only is first detained, and as the structure progresses, sand and mud are added.  Along the upper end of these bars floating particles of gold find a lodgment.  Thus originate the "river-bed claims," to mine which the streams are turned from their courses; "bar-claims," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:where the gold is mined at low water; "bench-claims," where the bars are on narrow table-lands, once the beds of rivers; and "flat-claims," where the wash of rivers has been spread over a level space of country.  Some "hill-claims," or mines in which the gold-bearing dirt lies under an accumulation of nonauriferous soil, have evidently been formed as bars, and, in the changes of time, have been covered to a great depth by the wash of other streams.  "Gulch-claims" are formed, as are those of river beds, with the exception that a small quantity of water has been the agent.</p><P>According as the "pay-dirt" is near the surface, or remote from it, placer mines are shallow, or deep.</p><P>The manner of working these various claims demands notice.  The beds of streams along which auriferous-earth is carried are more or less rich in gold.  Owing to the swiftness of the mountain streams the only way of reaching these "river-bed claims" is to turn the water into some other channel.  In working on river-bars it is not usually necessary to turn the course of the river, as work is deferred until late in the season, when the streams are low.  Deep claims are reached by shafts, or, more generally, by tunnels, through which the auriferous soil is transported, and it is afterward washed at some convenient locality.  Ancient river-beds are also reached by tunnels, the gold being treated in the same manner as that obtained in the hill-claims.</p><P>In the early days of mining in California "river-bed" and "bar-claims" were called "wet-diggings," in contradistinction to the "gulch" and "flat-claims," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:denominated "dry-diggings," where water was obtainable during but a part of the year, if at all.  When the "deep placers" began to be worked, and the extensive and complex system of ditches and flumes, which now traverse the Sierra foot-hills, was first planned, the names "wet" and "dry-diggings" were discarded, and others more appropriate substituted.  In the early days of mining in this State, when "gulch," or "flat-claims," were found very rich, and no water was obtainable to dissolve the soil, a mode of working, since discarded, was employed, and called "dry-washing."  The richest dirt was placed on a raw-hide that was laid on the ground.  The miner then pulverized the earth, throwing out all the pebbles with which gold-bearing soil is filled.  This done, the fine dust was put into his pan, and by repeatedly throwing the dirt into the air and catching it in its descent, the earth was all blown away, and the metal remained.</p><P>The tunnels which are run into hills are usually seven feet high, and about five wide.  The drift is generally run on a level, or with a sufficient ascent to facilitate the draining of the claims and the excavation of earth.  Occasionally a tunnel is run down so as to avoid some rock ledge above, but unless there is a draining tunnel beneath, much difficulty is experienced from the water which may be in the hills.  Tunnels generally require timbering to prevent the earth from caving, and it is frequently necessary that heavy planking be placed against the side walls also.  Thus it will be seen that a tunnel is an expensive structure in some places, especially <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:where timber is scarce.  Shafts are usually dug for the purposes of prospecting.  But in some localities, where the "pay-dirt" cannot be more easily reached with a tunnel, the auriferous soil is hoisted through a shaft.</p><P>Before describing the modes of mining at present generally adopted, it will not be amiss to state the methods of obtaining the gold in the "Fall of '49 and the Spring of '50."  It was not until about 1852 that what has become known as hydraulic mining was begun.  The crushing of the rock to free the metal was a feature of Californian mining of still later introduction.  Those who first came to the State were usually supplied with three tools--a pick, a shovel or spade, and a pan.</p><P>The pan is usually made of sheet iron, which does not amalgamate with mercury and is stronger than tin.  Its diameter is about twelve inches, while the sides are six inches high, rising from the bottom at an angle of about forty-five degrees.  The pan is the simplest instrument employed in the separation of gold from the soil in which it is found.  It is partly filled with dirt and held under water.  A gentle shaking aids in dissolving the dirt.  Thus a thin mud is formed which is carried away by the clear running water.  The gold dust and pebbles settle to the bottom, where quicksilver is frequently placed, and the gold is retained by amalgamation.  The pebbles are thrown out, and the metal removed.  An inexperienced hand loses considerable gold, but an expert in this process can make a good living in many parts of the State at the present day, although "shallow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:mines" are not generally regarded as "paying."  Except for the purposes of prospecting, the pan has passed out of general use, and the rocker, a later invention, has also with it gone into disuse.</p><P>The cradle or rocker looks somewhat like a child's cradle, and is provided with two rockers.  The instrument consists of a box about three and a half feet long, nearly two feet wide, and four inches deep.  One end, which is open so as to allow the escape of water and earth, is lower than the other.  Across this "cradle-box" two riffle-bars are placed.  These are strips of board, about one inch square, which are fastened in the bed of the cradle--one near the middle and the other at the end of the box--for the purpose of catching and retaining the particles of gold.  At the elevated end of the cradle is the "hopper."  This is a square box with a length equal to the width of the cradle, and it is about four inches deep.  It is not securely fastened to the cradle, but may be lifted off when desirable.  The bottom of the hopper or "riddle-box" is of sheet iron, perforated with holes, that, in diameter, do not exceed half an inch.  Under the hopper an "apron" of either wood or leather is securely fastened to the sides and inclines toward the upper end of the cradle.  The miner places dirt in the riddle-box.  The "cradler" sitting beside the machine, with one hand rocks it gently as with the other hand he dips water from the stream or pool by which he works, and pours it upon the earth in the hopper.  The soil is dissolved, and the muddy water sinks through the bottom of the riddle-box upon the apron, which, by its inclination, sends it to the upper <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:end of the cradle-box.  Hence it flows over the riffles and escapes through the open lower end.  The gold, together with the heavy black sand, is retained by the riffles.  The traveler will, in mining districts, see many Chinamen patiently working over the "tailings" or refuse left years ago by Caucasian miners.</p><P>Another instrument which is used in but a few parts of California at the present day is the "pudding-box."  This is made of rough boards.  It is about six feet square and a foot deep.  Very tough clay that cannot be worked successfully otherwise, is thrown into this box together with water.  A man stirs this mass until it is thoroughly dissolved.  He then removes a plug, a few inches above the bottom, and allows the thin mixture of earth and water to escape.  The heavier portion with the gold remains, more water is added, and the process repeated.  When sufficiently separated in this manner, the pan or rocker is called into requisition to complete the work of parting the gold from the tenacious earth.</p><P>The board-sluice was, for a time, an important auxiliary in gold mining.  A trough of rough boards is constructed, not less than fifty feet long, and often several hundred or even thousand feet in length.  The maximum width is one foot, and it varies from one foot to five feet in width.  Riffles in the sluice serve to detain the gold which is also held by quick-silver.  Through the sluice a stream of water constantly runs, the dirt is shoveled in, and as the soil dissolves and is carried away, the gold sinks to the bottom.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>Hydraulic mining is now extensively used.  Early in 1852 the miners in the Sierra foot-hills were generally impressed with the fact that some other mode of obtaining the precious metal must speedily be adopted.  Many had made money by picking the gold from crevices with knives and spoons, but this could no longer be done.  The earth near the water-courses had been mined over with pan or rocker.  The sluice had been employed for ground more remote from water, but that means of mining had ceased to make a rich return.  Many had discovered by shafts and tunnels that very valuable deposits were to be found in strata deeper than those which they could readily reach.  "In the spring of 1852, a miner, whose name is not remembered, put up a novel machine on his mining claim at Yankee Jim, in Placer County.  This machine was very simple.  From a small ditch on the hill-side a flume was built towards the ravine, where the mine was opened; the flume gained height above the ground as the ravine was approached, until finally a `head' or vertical height of forty feet was reached.  At this point the water was discharged into a barrel, from the bottom of which depended a hose, about six inches in diameter, made of common cow-hide, and ending in a tin tube, about four feet long, the latter tapering down to a final opening or nozzle of one inch."<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">Charles Waldeyer, of Cherokee, Butte County, California, in United States Mining Industry.  Raymond, N.Y., 1874, p. 390.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Thus, like all great things, did hydraulic mining have its small beginning.  The hose made of raw leather soon rotted, not only becoming very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:offensive, but also utterly useless.  Some sailors adopted canvas, and that has since continued to be used in many places, for conducting the water; in other localities iron pipe has superseded sail cloth.</p><P>The nozzle has undergone many changes and improvements.  Inventive genius was immediately called into requisition to perfect the instruments of the new method of mining, which was attracting universal attention.  The nozzle received a great share of notice.  Numerous nozzles are in use, but the detailed description of their various styles would occupy too much space here.  The general form is that of a tapering metallic tube, which moves in a ball and socket joint in the metallic end of the pipe or hose which conducts the water upon the auriferous earth.</p><P>When a way was opened to the miners by which the "deep placers" could be profitably worked, it was but natural that many should eagerly engage in the enterprise.  But there were many items of heavy expense that appeared to only a few of the more far-sighted speculators.  These were not slow to avail themselves of all the advantages which the new system placed at their disposal.  Large Ditch Companies were organized, surveys were made, water rights located, and mammoth ditches, and extensive flumes constructed.  Miniature rivers brought in artificial channels, down the mountain sides from the regions of never-failing snow, were led to every mining camp.  When a system of ditches was first instituted in 1852, investments in it brought large returns.  Water was scarce in the mining sections, from the fact that the stratification of the slate-rock had made springs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:impossible here.  A bountiful supply now enabled the miners to work their claims more extensively.  But when one large ditch scheme was superseded by a grander, the supply began to exceed the demand.  Immense expense had been incurred in the construction of uncalled-for ditches.  Labor was high, and extravagant wages were paid by rival companies desiring to first reach a common destination.  Costly flumes were built, which, owing to subsidence and decay, as well as to their frequent destruction by snow-storms, cost large amounts for repairs.  Bad engineering also caused much unnecessary expense.  The companies who had engaged in the construction of these works became bankrupt, with liabilities of several millions of dollars.  "It is estimated by competent men that not less than $20,000,000 have been invested in the mining ditches of California, and that their present (1868) cash value is not more than $2,000,000."<ANCHOR ID="n10-2">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: In many localities the high water-rates prevented the miners from working their claims, and in others when the miner had become indebted to the Ditch Companies for water, beyond his capacity to pay, he transferred his claim to cancel the obligation.  Thus Ditch Companies became owners and workers of mining territory.  In some parts of the State one Ditch Company has absorbed one after another of its less prosperous rivals until it has become a gigantic monopoly.  We may, as an example, mention the California Water Company of El Dorado County.  This company has obtained possession of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:very extensive water privileges as well as other valuable property.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-2">Resources of the Pacific States and Territories, J. Ross Browne. S.F., 1869, p. 180.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>We have thus far mentioned two of the important requisites of hydraulic mining; gold-bearing earth, and an abundant supply of water.  The third indispensable necessary is facilities for the outlet and deposition of the great amount of tailings, or <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm:.  As a ton of earth returns but a very small amount of gold, when we consider the large quantities of precious metal which has been obtained by washing earth, it will be evident to the most casual observer that the tailings which have been washed from the hill-sides down into the valleys and rivers, have been enormous in amount.  Here a question of grave import arises, which has led to long and bitter contentions between the miners and agriculturists of California.</p><P>The agriculturist affirms: that prior to the extensive removal of soil from the hill-sides, many rivers of the State flowed through alluvial bottoms; that these meadow-lands were extremely fertile; that the washing of tailings in the rivers has resulted in filling up their beds, until in the overflows large quantities of volcanic <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm:, gravel, and sand, have been deposited on productive agricultural lands; that the lands have thus become impoverished; that the loss to the State by the ruin of these farming lands, and the destruction of the improvements thereon, has reached many millions of dollars; that the transient gain from the mines has been far less than the constant returns from the lands would have been had they not been rendered valueless.  He also asserts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:that large tracts of forest land have been destroyed, the State being thus deprived of much valuable timber; that the soil has been washed away to the bedrock in vast areas; that these tracts are useless for all purposes, and are rapidly enlarging; and that many streams, formerly navigable, have been filled up to such an extent as to stop navigation, and necessitate extensive canals and railroads; that the bays of California have been impeded by the deltas from these mountain streams, and in a comparatively brief period the greater portion of these bays will be useless for the purposes of commerce.</p><P>The miner pleads: that mining was the first great interest in the State, and that to which California owes its rapid growth; that as the miners came before the farmers, they have a prior right; that unless outlets are granted the mines cannot be worked, and the State will thus be deprived of many millions annually furnished by the hydraulic mines.  He also claims that fine gold has been deposited in these alluvial bottoms until they should be considered rather as mineral than farming lands.  The miner also pleads, that if an outlet for the tailings is denied him, his expensive ditches and other structures will be useless.</p><P>Careful legislation is required to adjust these counter-claims.  The mining interests should not be overlooked, neither should the soil of the State be irreparably injured for the gold which is obtained by hydraulic mining.  A loss of the many millions annually added to its wealth by mining cannot affect the State of California as materially as the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:permanent forfeiture of large forest belts, and of thousands of acres of valuable farming lands, with consequent loss to commerce.</p><P>We may well consider a few of the mechanical appliances used in hydraulic mining.  Mention has already been made of the flumes, ditches, and iron pipes which conduct the water to large reservoirs, from which it is drawn in desired quantities, and conducted through iron pipe to the nozzles, through which it rushes with terrible force against the bank to be excavated.</p><P>We will now, as briefly as possible, describe the sluice-boxes which carry the water and earth away from the mine, catch the gold, and conduct the tailings out of the miner's way.  A sufficient fall from the head to the bottom of the sluice-box is an all-important consideration.  This grade varies from three inches, in twelve feet, where an abundant and cheap supply of water is at hand, to nine inches, in the same length of sluice-box, when the supply of water is limited.  These grades may be considered as extremes.  From four and a half to six inches fall in twelve feet is about the normal grade.</p><P>In arranging the grade of a sluice-box many important questions are involved.  One of the greatest being the establishment of "under-currents."  These are large, flat boxes, generally varying from thirty to fifty feet in length, and from ten to twenty feet in width, and often containing a surface of from 500 to 1,000 square feet.  These boxes are provided through their whole extent with riffles, as we have seen in the rocker, which catch the gold, or amalgam.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:"under-current" is beside and a little below the main sluice-box.  An opening from fifteen to eighteen inches in width is cut in the bottom of the sluice-box.  Over this a frame-work of steel bars, about one inch square, and an inch apart, allows the fine particles of sand and metal to drop into a sloping box.  This box has a pitch of about one inch in a foot.  Through this box the finer materials reach the broad area of riffles, while the coarser gravel and cobble-stones are carried down in the main sluice-box.  The water which flows into the "under-current" afterward unites with that in the sluice farther down from the mine.  The cobbles and small boulders are next disposed of by "a grizzly," or a grate of parallel bars which permits the finer particles to pass down through the sluice, while all stones are thrown out of the sluice altogether.  If a "grizzly" is used, a drop of a few feet is necessary, as the material which passes through the grating must drop into a series of sluice-boxes underneath, and is thus carried farther from the mining ground.  Should a precipice be along the line of sluice-boxes, a "grizzly" may be most profitably constructed, but otherwise the accumulation of refuse thus thrown out of the sluice soon prevents farther deposits.  When a "grizzly" is made, and a precipice is at hand, a great amount of wear on the sluice-boxes below is prevented.  Then a frame of iron bars, which may be condemned iron rails, is made, extending beneath the end of the higher sluice-box and above the drop-box, into which the finer matter falls.  The bars of the frame-work are placed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:parallel to each other, towards the cliff, and about six inches apart.  The whole frame slopes at an angle of about 30&deg; towards the cliff, over which stones of more than six inches in diameter may be rolled, while strong wooden sides prevent their escape in any other direction.</p><P>A sluice is constructed of boards resting on strong sills, laid four feet apart.  These sills are usually four inches by six, and for a double sluice, about fifteen feet long.  The advantage of a double sluice is that the mining can be prosecuted at the same time that one of the sluice-boxes is "cleaned up."  The sluice-box is from four to six feet wide, and for the latter width, about three feet deep.  The sides are supported by posts, four by five inches, and strongly braced.  The floor and sides of the sluice-box are made of plank one and a half inches thick.</p><P>The paving of the sluice next requires attention.  This is sometimes done with hard, flat rocks, standing on their edges, and so placed as to be least effected by the flow of water.  These rocky pavements are from ten to twelve inches thick.  Separate compartments, formed by pieces of stout plank permanently fixed across the bed of the sluice-box, from six to eight feet apart, prevent a great displacement of the rocky pavement, should any stone give way.  Above the stone pavement the sides of the sluice-box are lined to the height of about a foot with two-inch plank, to save the real sluice from the wear of the gravel.  Square blocks, about ten inches deep, are also used for pavement, especially where the sluice is in a tunnel, as the work of taking out the pavement, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:for the purpose of obtaining the gold there retained, is, in this way, greatly facilitated.  These blocks are made of wood and fastened together in sections, with a space of an inch and a half, extending across the sluice, between the rows of blocks.</p><P>In hydraulic mines the work is done by the united forces of water and powder.  The latter is employed only to shake the bank, so that water will more easily effect its removal.  The hydraulic nozzle is directed against the bank of earth, and a strong head of water is turned on.  A stream, from five to seven inches in diameter, apparently as rigid as a bar of steel, plays against the yielding earth.  A hole, which rapidly enlarges, is ploughed out of the soil, until at length a portion of the bank caves, and is washed down into the sluices.  If the earth is very tenacious, a tunnel is dug into the mine, and cross-drifts, of various forms, connected with it.  In these drifts large quantities of powder, from a few hundred, up to two thousand, twenty-five pound kegs, are placed; connection is made by electric fuses, the mouth of the tunnel filled up, and the blast set off.  The soil thus shaken can be removed by the stream of water.  To work some mines, extensive tunnels must be dug through the wall-rock to reach the rich deposits in former river-beds.  From the tunnels, drifts, or chimneys, are dug into the rich deposit, and a shaft is excavated.  The earth is then washed down from above into the shaft, and is carried away in a series of sluices extending through the tunnel.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>We have mentioned that quicksilver is put into sluices to detain the gold.  The minute particles of gold form an amalgam with the mercury.  The quicksilver, therefore, must be exposed to the gold as much as possible.  With this intent, at first only a small amount of washing is done through the sluices, that the spaces between the stones, or blocks, of the pavement, may become partially filled with earth.  The quicksilver is then introduced.  It is scattered in a light spray all along the sluice.  The first charge of quicksilver is between five and six hundred pounds for five thousand feet of sluice.  After that the daily charge, applied twice a day, is about one hundred pounds.  Much of the quicksilver is regained when separated from the gold.</p><P>"Cleaning up" is done usually once or twice a month, though in some places it is performed oftener.  The pavement of the sluice is gradually taken out, while a small stream of water is applied to move the sand and fine gravel.  The amalgam is scraped up, and put into iron, or wooden buckets.</p><P>The quicksilver is then separated from the gold.  A quicksilver bath divides the gold from any base metal which may have combined with it.  The free mercury may then be obtained by straining through a filter of canvas.  After this the amalgam is washed in a bath of water and sulphuric acid, when the mercury is considered pure.  The gold and remaining quicksilver is now placed in a retort.  The mercury is vaporized by heat, and after passing through a tube, is condensed in water.  The pure gold is then removed.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>A considerable percentage of the gold is lost in hydraulic mining, in great measure on account of the rapidity with which the work is prosecuted.  Fine flour gold has not time to settle through the thick water, and is carried off in the tailings.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.<LB>TO THE YOSEMITE.<LB></HEAD>
185.sgm:<P>IN the preceding pages we have described at considerable length the rail-way ride to Stockton, which is the same for all the routes to Yosemite, except that those who journey to the Valley by way of Mariposa, or Coulterville, change cars at Lathrop, and thence proceed to Merced.  We have noticed the points of interest along the Stockton and Copperopolis Railroad, as far as Milton, as well as scenes along the stage route to Murphy's, and thence to the Calaveras Mammoth Trees.  At the latter place we stopped, and subsequently visited the South Grove, and Cave City, thus gaining many views of fine scenery, as well as an opportunity of witnessing the utter desolation of some mining camps, that in former days were flourishing towns.  We have spent a part of our time in this section in making a brief survey of the gold-mining districts of the State, and have noticed some interesting theories relative to the formation of this section of the country, as well as to the origin of gold mines, and the manner in which the golden <HI REND="italics">detritus</HI>
185.sgm: has been deposited in the placer-mining section.  We have studied the methods by which the gold has been mined, tracing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:water from the time it left crystal springs in the lofty regions of perpetual snow, through ditches, flumes, and pipes, until we have seen it tearing down banks of red earth, leaving the bed-rock bare, except in places where piles of rock have been thrown aside, or where, perchance, on some untouched pinnacle of earth a dead pine stands--a monument to the departed grandeur of the virgin forest.</p><P>We are now prepared to proceed on our journey, which will first lead us through the section of the Southern Mines, and afterward among the imposing forests of the heavy timber belt of the Sierra Nevada, until suddenly we emerge at the brink of a narrow, rocky gorge, and look down more than three thousand feet upon the green meadow-lands of the Yosemite Valley.  There to trace the wandering Merced, as it glides from one thicket to another, and finally disappears from sight as it dashes over immense boulders through the can&tilde;on which is the western continuation of the valley.</p><P>All the routes to the Yosemite must of necessity be very similar in many respects, traversing as they do for a great portion of their length the region of the foot-hills.  Each, however, possesses points of interest peculiar to itself, and the tourist will do well to travel by more than one of them.  Having visited the Calaveras Mammoth Trees, we will continue our journey by what is called the Big Oak Flat route.  This has become more generally known than the other roads to the Yosemite, because the Calaveras Trees were the first large ones discovered and made accessible, and travelers after seeing them journeyed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:over the mountains to the Yosemite.  This road has also always been more generally traveled, because for a number of years it presented the least distance to be passed on horseback, and also because it lies through what is usually conceded to be the most interesting country in the vicinity of the famous cataract.</p><P>The distance from Murphy's to the hotels in the Yosemite Valley is eighty-five miles, all of which is traveled by stages.</p><P>After leaving Murphy's, we retrace our steps as far as Vallecito.  From this point we begin to wind through the foot-hills clothed with chaparral, rich also in a growth of fragrant wild lilacs ( <HI REND="italics">Ceanothus</HI>
185.sgm: ) and gnarled manzanitas.</p><P>As we wind up the browned mountain side, where at this time--the first of June--but a few scattered wild flowers relieve the stretches of dry grass, we notice in the can&tilde;on below, Coyote Creek, along which much mining has been done, and where still a few claims yield a profitable return to labor.  Joaquin Miller's words are very applicable to this stream apparently lying motionless between the baked hillsides:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Here winds a thick and yellow thread,<LB>A moss'd and silver stream instead;<LB>And trout that leap'd its rippled tide<LB>Have turned upon their sides and died."</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>Coyote Creek is so similar to many streams that are found in the foot-hill region that it seems to scarcely merit notice.  Yet, down in that can&tilde;on, unvisited and generally unknown to the tourist, are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:two interesting curiosities.  Some one may notice as the stage passes a board sign on a tree, at the right, which points down a winding trail, and bears the inscription, "To the Natural Bridges."  Should you be fortunate enough to have the seat with the driver, which you should always secure when possible, he will probably give you an account of the bridges.</p><P>As the stage does not stop, few ever visit these spots.  Although that form of Nature's masonry called a bridge is found in almost every section of the country, each possesses some charms particularly its own.  These bridges are not without special attractions.  Following down the course of the stream, we approach a fine Gothic arch, spanning the creek.  This arch rises in the centre about thirty feet above the Tiber-like stream.  The distance from pier to pier is perhaps twenty-five feet.  Above this vaulted entrance lies a thick mass of stone and earth, crowned with shrubs, which conceal the hard lines of rock.  We pass under this stone entrance, following the side of the creek, and soon find ourselves walking through a noble and natural Gothic vestibule, which opens into a room about forty feet wide and fifty feet high.  This large cavity strikingly resembles a Gothic cathedral.  At some places along its wall masses of limestone look like dilapidated stone altars, while a few stalagmites resembling half-consumed candles, and a spring of clear water bubbling, as if for baptismal purposes, into a natural stony font, heighten the illusion.  The sediment from the muddy stream has, during high-water, been deposited on the altar-like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:projections, and might almost be mistaken for the accumulated dust of some deserted apartment.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Nature played with the stalactites<LB>And built herself a chapel."</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>As we proceed under this natural bridge we notice around us many interesting objects, among which is a mass that greatly resembles a boisterous cascade instantly stiffened with ice.  As we approach the lower end of the passage, the roof gradually nears the water until, at the place where we emerge, it is not much over five feet above the stream.  This bridge is nearly three hundred feet wide.</p><P>The second bridge is about half a mile farther down stream.  This is somewhat similar to the one above described.  The entrance is less Gothic, more nearly resembling a large arch.  The interior chamber is not as high, the roof being but about fifteen feet above the floor, and shaped like a dome.  These bridges form part of the limestone belt which has been before mentioned, and will afford much pleasure to the traveler.</p><P>We now return to our main journey and climb the side of Table Mountain.  Occasionally unique views of foot-hill scenery present themselves.  The next ride is down the mountain to Abby's Ferry, on the Stanislaus River, the boundary line between Calaveras County, which we are just leaving, and Tuolumne County, through which the remainder of our journey will mostly lie.  While waiting for the ferry boat to be brought across the river, a digression in relation to this interesting section may be pardoned.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>There are in California many flat-topped ridges, which have been styled table-mountains.  The particular one of which we write is thus described in the California State Geological Survey Report.<ANCHOR ID="n11-1">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1">Geology.  Vol. I., p. 243.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"The Table Mountain of Tuolumne County is a flow of lava originating in the lofty volcanic region, beyond the Big Trees of Calaveras.**It comes down to the north side of the Stanislaus, forming a nearly continuous ridge, elevated more than 2,000 feet above the river.  Just below Abby's Ferry, the Stanislaus has broken through the once continuous basaltic ridge, which has been irregularly worn away for some distance from the river, but which re-appears as a continuous mountain a little southwest of Columbia, and continues on the south side of the river, forming a conspicuous feature of the scenery as far as Knight's Ferry, a distance of about twenty miles from the point where it crosses the river and enters Tuolumne County.  As seen from a distance, this Table Mountain reveals its origin at once in the contrast between the long straight line of its upper edge, and the broken and curving ones which the eroded hills of the auriferous slates every-where exhibit.  Its dark color and the comparative absence of trees or shrubs on its top and sides, also indicate very clearly that the material of which it is composed is very different from that of the surrounding hills."</p><P>In a previous chapter we have spoken of the large lava-flows which, during a former age, have buried immense areas of the Sierra Nevada to a great depth; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:not only, as in Northern California and Oregon, extending over broad tracts, but, also, in some parts of California, filling up former river-channels, and at the present day appearing as long walls of compact lava.  It may well be our pleasure, while in so favored a locality, to study more closely some of the many interesting features of these stone rivers.</p><P>The summit of the Table Mountain, which we see at this point, is a cap, from one hundred and forty to one hundred and fifty feet in thickness, of very dark colored lava, with a dense texture.  No divisions are noticeable in its structure, the entire mountain ridge seeming the result of one great and uninterrupted volcanic flow.  The width of this lava band is about 1,700 feet.  The upper surface is almost perfectly smooth, and nearly level, with but a gentle slope from its source.  But little soil has accumulated on its summit, and the vegetable growth there has been restricted to a few stunted shrubs.  The lava appears but little affected by time.  Its nearly perpendicular walls have been but slightly worn, except in a few places, where, as near Abby's Ferry, the Stanislaus has broken through the stony levee which checked its course.  At some points, as we ride along, we see where the softer material beneath the lava has been worn away by water, exposing masses of the porous rock, some of which are still overhanging the tide, while others have fallen.  Probably in this way the greater amount of dilapidation has been accomplished.</p><P>Beneath the lava a deposit of fine-grained sandstone is usually found.  This latter is not very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:compact, and generally disintegrates when exposed to the air.  These sand-stone deposits are distinctly stratified, and lie in nearly a horizontal position.  Among the lower strata are deposits of nearly white, and frequently beautifully laminated shales and clays.  Also, in this location, are beds of gravelly materials, which adhere closely together, forming what the miners call "cement."  Beneath all is the bed of the ancient river, or the "channel," where the "pay-gravel" is found.  These beds of former streams present all the characteristics of recent riverbeds.  At one part of the Table Mountain of which we write the total thickness of the detrital masses directly beneath the centre of the lava deposit is stated by Professor Whitney to be fully two hundred feet.  At the sides the thickness is less, owing to the rise of the auriferous slates which formed the banks of the Pliocene river, and which are called by the miner "rim-rock."  Through this rock he frequently tunnels to reach the rich gravel-deposit in the bed of the former stream.</p><P>To the geologist, Tuolumne County presents a rich field for study.  Many of the most interesting fossil remains which have been discovered in the State have been found here.  In the strata of detrital material underlying the lava, pieces of wood, and sometimes entire trunks of trees, are found.  These are almost always silicified, being changed into an opaline substance, sometimes called wood-opal.  Among thin layers of "pipe-clay" impressions of leaves are occasionally found.  These are said, on good authority, to belong to a flora entirely different from that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:of California at the present time.  These vegetable remains are believed to belong to the Tertiany period.  This date for the deposits in the ancient river-beds, not at this place alone, but in other parts of California, is corroborated by the animal remains also found beneath the lava.  Although these specimens are generally in a fragmentary condition, and are often entirely destroyed by the carelessness with which they are exhumed, enough has been learned to convince Professor Whitney, that prior to the great lava-flow the country then desolated was inhabited by "the rhinoceros, an animal related to the hippopotamus, an extinct species of horse, and a species allied to the camel," all of which, it would appear, became extinct during that great terrestrial revolution.  Later, a new fauna appeared in the changed landscape.  The mastodon and elephant, together with the tapir, bison (buffalo), and two species of horse, the latter undistinguishable from the present mustang, or Indian horse, at that time inhabited this section, and their remains have been found in great abundance in the more recent detritus of the gold region.  The remains of these latter animals have not, so far as known, been found beneath the lavas: those overflows marking a distinct transition for this section from one fauna to another.  The works of man have here, as in Europe, been found in close proximity to the remains of these animals.  The inference can hardly be escaped that man made his appearance here during the age of the elephant.  Mining is actively carried on beneath Table Mountain, where large quantities of gold have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:obtained.  These mines were accidentally discovered in 1854.  Up to this time almost a million dollars have been expended in tunneling under the lava.</p><P>We have been for some time discussing the formation of this interesting mountain ridge and looking at specimens of silicified wood and lumps of finegrained "pipe-clay," containing leaf impressions, and kept for sale at extravagant prices in the little house by the river side.  Meanwhile, the ferry boat has been brought across the river, and its prow has just touched the sandy beach.  This swift river, like all the foot-hill water-courses of California, is very dangerous from the strong under-current that gives rise to the swift eddies visible at different points.</p><P>The ferry boat is made much like a common lighter, with flat bottom, square ends, and of light draft.  A railing prevents accidents, for should man or beast fall overboard, death would be almost certain.  But it is not so much the shape of the boat as the manner in which it is navigated that interests us.  A very strong cable is stretched across the river, about five feet above the surface of the water, and is securely fastened to either bank.  At each end of the ferry boat a strong rope is wound around a belaying pin and is also fastened to a pully that runs freely on the cable stretched across the stream.  When crossing the river, the rope attached to the prow is lengthened and the stern rope shortened.  This allows the current to bear against the stern of the boat and push it across, while the pulleys attached to the ropes that prevent the craft from being carried down stream present no obstacle to the onward motion.  The speed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:of the boat may, of course, be accelerated or retarded by lengthening or shortening the forward line.</p><P>After crossing the Stanislaus, we begin a long winding ascent.  We get out and walk, thus relieving our cramped limbs, and the tired horses, and, as amateur botanists, taking great delight in gathering specimens of the flora of this region as we climb the mountainous road.</p><P>Reaching the summit of the hill, we make a slight descent and then wind among rolling lands, seeing around us multiplying tokens of mineral research.  Presently we reach Gold Springs, formerly a noted mining camp.  This is, indeed, an oasis in the desert of dry, rolling, chaparral-covered hills.  On the left of the road is a copious spring, a very rare feature in auriferous districts, shaded by a large and symmetrical weeping-willow.  The water is cold as ice and very refreshing.  Professor Whitney supposes that this spring existed here during the period of the mastodon, and has continued to flow ever since.  Considering it a favorite resort of those huge animals, he accounts for the abundance of their remains in the vicinity.</p><P>A fine orchard surrounds the spring and a comfortable farm-house is seen under the trees a few hundred yards off.  The excellence of the fruit raised on the red earth of auriferous regions has been mentioned in a former chapter.  The tourist will here have an opportunity of tasting the cherries and currants, or, at another season, the peaches and grapes.</p><P>We are now in an essentially mineral country.  On all sides traces of hydraulic mining appear.  Large <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:boulders have been uncovered in the artificial denudation of the country, and lie glistening in the strong sunlight.  The "bed-rock" is seen exposed for large areas.  Indeed all the beautiful superstructure of soil and trees has been removed, and nothing remains but the uneven underlying rock.</p><P>This apparently uninteresting bed-rock proves far from unattractive to a student of geological problems.  This rock is a part of the great limestone belt which we have seen at Murphy's and Cave City.  It has here been laid bare by mining to such an extent as to attract notice in several respects.  Deep irregular cavities extend even to fifty feet in depth, which are seen to be longest in the direction of the stratification of the rock.  These cavities have been greatly worn by water.  In these fissures, which have an average depth of from ten to twenty feet, much gold has been found, for the rock has served the purpose of the pavement in a sluice.  Another noticeable feature of this limestone region is the dikes of trap which, piercing the limestone, stand almost perpendicular, extending nearly at right angles across the trend of the limestone formations.  These dikes are frequently many feet thick, and are confined to the limestone belt, not reaching into the slates lying near by.  The limestone is, at one point, quite extensively quarried, and is valuable for monuments and for building.</p><P>We soon reach Columbia, having traveled fourteen miles from Murphy's, and find another mining town that has seen more prosperous days.  The town was built in a beautiful vale.  The earth around has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:mined off, and many of the houses and stores have been pulled down that the soil under them might be washed over.  This village is, however, not as desolate as many of the towns through which we have passed.  From 1853 to 1857, the amount of $100,000 in bullion was weekly sent from this place.  "Columbia is noted for having produced more large nuggets than any other district of the State, and also for the high fineness of its gold."<ANCHOR ID="n11-2">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: The mines in the vicinity alone sustain this tottering town.  Perhaps no more appropriate place may be found than the present for speaking of the great decrease in population throughout mining districts.  While agriculture has been developing other parts of California and adding a permanent population, the mining area of the State has "been running down," the shallow placers have been nearly exhausted and a large number of men who, in early times, found employment here have drifted away to other localities.  Many have rushed to Nevada, Idaho and Montana, while some have adopted more steady occupations.  The following tables, compiled from the United States census of 1860 and 1870, will exemplify the decrease in six counties in which the leading industry is mining, and also the increase in the same number of agricultural counties:</p><P>Counties.<HSEP>1860.<HSEP>1870.</p><P>Calaveras<HSEP>16,299<HSEP>8,896</p><P>El Dorado<HSEP>20,562<HSEP>10,326</p><P>Placer<HSEP>13,270<HSEP>11,376</p><P>Tuolumne<HSEP>16,229<HSEP>8,171</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>Tulare<HSEP>4,638<HSEP>3,782</p><P>Yuba<HSEP>13,668<HSEP>10,865</p><P>Total<HSEP>84,666<HSEP>53,416</p><P>53,416</p><P>Decrease<HSEP>31,250</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-2">Resources of the Pacific Slope, J. Ross Browne, p. 35.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>In other portions of the State the increase has been as great as the decrease in the six counties enumerated:</p><P>Counties.<HSEP>1860.<HSEP>1870.</p><P>Contra Costa<HSEP>5,328<HSEP>8,468</p><P>Humboldt<HSEP>2,694<HSEP>6,109</p><P>Los Angeles<HSEP>11,333<HSEP>15,100</p><P>San Joaquin<HSEP>9,435<HSEP>21,064</p><P>Solano<HSEP>7,169<HSEP>16,396</p><P>Stanislaus<HSEP>2,245<HSEP>6,510</p><P>Total<HSEP>38,204<HSEP>73,647</p><P>38,204</p><P>Increase<HSEP>35,443</p><P>Four miles beyond Columbia we come to Sonora.  This town was first settled by a party of miners from the State of Sonora, Mexico, in the summer of 1848.  The rich placers around it caused the little settlement to grow very rapidly, so that in the next year its population was estimated at nearly 5,000.  Many fires have swept over the town, and this fact will explain the number of brick stores with iron shutters, and many other precautions which are here used <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:against fire.  At the present time the mines in the immediatevicinity are generally exhausted.  Still Sonora presents a much better appearance than most towns in the mineral belt.  It is the trade-center for a large extent of country, and its principal long crooked street is lined with various and apparently prosperous stores.  The heat in Sonora is excessive during the middle of the day.  Should the tourist linger three or four hours in the place, he will find the high temperature not much alleviated by broad awnings and frequently sprinkled streets.  He will have a good opportunity of estimating the summer heat of a foot-hill town, and will sigh for-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A little one-story thermometer<LB>With nothing but zeros all ranged in a row."</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>But when we think how exhausting is travel over the dry hill-sides, we do not regret that the stages wait here until the heat has in a measure abated.  The traveler through this region will find a supply of good lemons desirable.  Throughout the foot-hills the water is usually warm, and lemon juice renders it more palatable.</p><P>Sonora is the county-seat of Tuolumne County.  This county is quite irregular in shape.  Its northwestern boundary is the Stanislaus River and its north fork, which separates this district from Calaveras County.  Alpine County lies along the northeastern line.  Mono County bounds Tuolumne on the east.  Fresno and Mariposa Counties lie to the south.  Mariposa and Stanislaus Counties lie along its western border.  The average length of Tuolumne County is sixty miles, its average width thirty-five, and its area <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:is 915,000 acres.  Mining has been extensively followed in the western portion of the county.  The eastern part lies in the heavy timber belt of the Sierra Nevada.  There lumbering has been extensively carried on.  At present but a small part of the county is under cultivation, although the soil of the western portion, from the foot-hills to an elevation of 2,500 feet in the Sierras, is unequaled in the productiveness of its orchards and vineyards, and the flavor of fruit is here remarkably good.</p><P>Charles Nordhoff<ANCHOR ID="n11-3">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: has made an observation true not only of Sonora but of many other towns to which fine farming lands are adjacent, but around which the gold is still so abundant that a little exertion will furnish pocket money for some time.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-3">California for Health, Pleasure, and Residence.  Charles Nordhoff, N.Y., 1874, p.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>"The gold is still a curse, a clog; if it were gone, men, women, and boys would cease to think of it, and the four bits and the circus money would be earned by some industry useful to the general public.  But now they live on in careless ease, enjoying their delicious climate, eating in the season the finest fruit of California; careless of the future, for there is no winter, and a miner can live comfortably in the hills for ten dollars a month; and recounting to each other the past and faded glories of Sonora, and their hopes that by the success of quartz-mining and the development of agriculture, its prosperity may some day be revived."</p><P>There is little new to interest us in the twelve miles' ride to Chinese Camp.  We see on the right <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:the long wall, Table Mountain, the most striking feature of the landscape.</p><P>Chinese Camp, another decaying mining town, is situated in a basin or flat east of Table Mountain, at an elevation of 1,300 feet above sea level.  The Mother Lode, previously mentioned, lies about a mile east of the town.  The chief industry here has been placer mining.  The gold is very fine, but the supply has been mostly exhausted.  Like all the towns of the region this one has a peculiar history.  The early events of nearly all mining camps posses a tragic interest.  Persons from all parts of the world flocking hither formed a strange population.  Many brought their vices with them, and left their virtues at home.  Each of these towns had its John Oakhurst and its "Cherokee Sal," but in almost every camp the noble qualities of an occasional "Kentuck" gave some light amid the general moral darkness.</p><P>Chinese Camp is the point where those passengers by the Big Oak Flat route, who do not visit the Calaveras Mammoth Trees on the way to the Yosemite, take the main stage from Murphy's and Sonora.  By this route the traveler passes through a part of the Salt Spring Valley, before described, and stops a few moments at Copperopolis.  The ride is mostly over a dry and uninteresting country, while its only recommendation is that those who travel by the Big Oak Flat route save both time and distance if they do not care to go to the Calaveras Mammoth Trees, and the interesting mining region around Sonora.  There is a good hotel at Chinese Camp, where those who leave <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:the Yosemite by the route we are describing spend the night.</p><P>After leaving Chinese we climb a gentle slope passing under one of the high flumes of the section, in which water is conveyed to mining camps in the neighborhood.  We then wind down a steep hill-side and at its base ford Wood's Creek, which, a short distance to the right, unites with the Tuolumne River.  Along Wood's Creek much mining has been done.  The Mother Lode is intersected by this stream, and in 1861 several quartz mills along the creek were engaged in crushing rock from neighboring mines.</p><P>Jacksonville is on the banks of the Tuolumne River, near where Wood's Creek empties into the former stream.  Of this town only a hotel and a few other buildings remain.  At this point the Tuolumne makes a sharp turn to the left.  During the high water of 1862, the Tuolumne became so much swollen that the narrow can&tilde;on through which it flows, just below Jacksonville, did not permit the accumulated water to escape with sufficient rapidity.  The stream backed up into the mouth of Wood's Creek and speedily the Tuolumne at this point was thirty feet above high water mark.  The hotel-keeper will show the tourist a mark, made by him at the time, to indicate the height of the water, on one of the large oak trees which surround his house and prevented its being washed away by the flood.  He will also tell of the livery stable and church carried away among other buildings, and that some miners' cabins were swiftly borne away by the tide, while their tenants were employed in cooking breakfast.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>For about two miles after leaving Jacksonville we ride along a well-graded road cut in the hill-side a short distance above the Tuolumne.  The river is here a broad muddy stream, apparently almost motionless, except where underlying rocks cause dangerous eddies.  A mile from Jacksonville we reach Pray's Garden.  Here fine fruit trees are growing, and apricots and cherries are for sale.  In the first part of this volume mention is made of oleanders near the Tuolumne River.  It is at Pray's Garden that these fragrant trees were seen.  Here also, as at Columbia and throughout thefoot-hills, roses abound.</p><P>A mile beyond Pray's Garden we come to Stephen's Bar, on the Tuolumne.  At this place we cross the river by ferry, the boat being of the same description which we noticed on the Stanislaus.  A place is pointed out on the other bank of the river, where quite a town once stood, of which not a single vestage remains.</p><P>Soon after crossing the Tuolumne, we ride in the bed of Moccasin Creek.  In the summer this broad water-course is nearly dry.  In winter the creek is very wide, and at some times is impassable from the amount of water and the frequency with which the channel changes.  The stream-bed is covered with flattened cobbles, averaging six or eight inches in diameter.  Moccasin Creek is a type of many streams in California, that, during the rainy season, are rushing torrents and in summer are completely dry.  Such a stream is here called an <HI REND="italics">arroyo</HI>
185.sgm: (ar-ro&acute;-yo).</p><P>For about three miles we follow the bank of Moccasin Creek, and after crossing a bridge we draw up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:at Newhall and Culbertson's Vineyard, where the horses rest before beginning the ascent of the longest grade of this road.  The vineyard is quite extensive, and about one thousand gallons of white and red wine are here manufactured every year.</p><P>We presently begin the ascent of Rattlesnake Hill.  The grade here is nearly three miles long.  Many prefer to walk part of the way.  Along the hill-side we notice granite wood, Indian arrow, manzanita, pipe-wood, mountain mahogany, and various shrubs which, when cut at the proper season admit a very high polish.  Here also, as in many other localities, we see the soap-root.  This is a peculiar plant with a bulbous root surrounded by tough fibres.  The outer portion is sometimes divided from the bulb and sent to San Francisco for the manufacture of hair-mattresses.  The bulbous root contains a great amount of <HI REND="italics">saponine</HI>
185.sgm:.  If rubbed in water a soapy lather is produced.  The root was used by the Indians and early Spanish settlers for removing dirt.  The flower stalk is sometimes four feet high, destitute of leaves, but plentifully supplied with branches about eighteen inches long, from which many flowers are suspended.  The flowers are small, white, and revolute.  The species here seen, which is abundant throughout a great part of the State, is <HI REND="italics">Chlorogalum pomeridianum</HI>
185.sgm: (Kunth).  Another species, <HI REND="italics">C. angustifolium</HI>
185.sgm: (Kellogg), is found near Mount Shasta.  The root of the latter is not as long as that of the other variety, and is destitute of the fibrous texture which distinguishes the former.<ANCHOR ID="n11-4">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-4">Proceedings California Academy of Sciences, Vol. II., p. 106</NOTE>
185.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>As we ascend, the rolling hills on the other side of the can&tilde;on look like beautifully clipped lawns, so evenly does the dense chaparral grow.</p><P>At the summit of the hill we find a neat and comfortable hotel--Priest's.  From the porch a grand view is presented of the dark green, rolling foot-hills and the Sacramento Valley in the hazy distance.  This is a pleasant place in which to spend the night, and at some seasons the stage makes Priest's the end of the day's journey.</p><P>Leaving this house--the Yosemite Hotel--we begin another ascent, not so long as Rattlesnake Hill, but in some places steeper.  As we ride along, we see the remains of an old arastra.  This was a Mexican contrivance for pulverizing quartz ore.  A circular bed of stone from eight to twenty feet in diameter was laid down, sometimes of unhewn flat stones imbedded in clay, and again made of carefully dressed blocks set in cement.  A short distance outside the circumference of the bed two stout posts, about ten feet high, were set in the ground on a line with the centre of the circular area, one post being on either side of it.  From the centre of the rock-bed a post extends to a timber, the ends of which are securely fastened to the uprights just outside of the circular bed.  The centre timber revolves on a pivot at the top and bottom.  Fastened to this, a short distance above the lower end, is a long beam, to one extremity of which a horse or mule is hitched.  At the other end a large flat stone, frequently weighing four or five hundred pounds, is attached by a chain in such a manner that the forward end is raised a few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:inches above the bed, while the other drags along over the flat stones, thus crushing whatever may be beneath it.  The Mexican breaks the rock into comparatively small pieces, and throws them in the way of the flat stone on the revolving beam.  A new style of quartz mill has been recently invented, which works on the principle of the arastra.  It is claimed for this addition to mining machinery that it can be constructed for much less money than an ordinary stamp mill, and also that there being no wear from incessant jarring, the machine will last much longer.</p><P>A mile beyond Priest's we come to Big Oak Flat.  This was formerly also a rich mining region.  The place took its name from an immense oak--supposed to be the largest in California--about thirty-six feet in circumference.  Rich earth surrounded this large tree, and the miners did not hesitate to dig close to the great roots and even to cut these off when in their way.  The branches were afterward sawed off.  On the first of January, 1872, the dead trunk was blown over during a severe gale.  Big Oak Flat was formerly quite a large town.  The tourist may see in some of the hotels along the route lithographs of the settlement in the days of its glory.  As in many other mining towns fire has destroyed the greater part of the place, and business has not warranted reconstruction.  A little south of Big Oak Flat a large quartz vein passes through the county, cutting at a small angle the strata of slate in which it is contained.  This vein differs essentially in dip and strike from the inclosing rocks, and will, therefore, interest the geologist.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>Two miles beyond, is First Garrote, the second town of this name being still two miles farther along the road.  At Garrote there is an excellent hotel.  Few country hotels are as well kept.  The fruit and vegetables of the vicinity are among the finest in the State.  Rich quartz mines are worked near by, and the tourist will see many fine mineralogical specimens obtained therefrom.</p><P>In cages we see some of the Mountain Quails of California.  These are among the most beautiful birds in the State.  This bird, also called the Plumed Partridge, is common in the high mountain ranges of California and Oregon.  It is not, however, found in the vicinity of San Francisco, nor is it certainly known to exist in the Coast Ranges south of that city.<ANCHOR ID="n11-5">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: Neither is it thought to live north of the Columbia River.  In summer these quails abound in the Sierra Nevada to an elevation of 7,000 feet, and in winter are known to descend to lower altitudes.  Their color is ashy-gray, with patches of reddish-chestnut on the throat and breast, and strips of the same color on the sides of the body.  The body is stout, the bill large, the tail short and broad.  On the head is a crest of two straight feathers, about three inches long turned backwards.  The habits of the bird are similar to those of other quails, but their cries are different.  A rather faint chirp is their note of alarm.  When disturbed they disperse in all directions, and afterward call each other together by a whistle much like that of a man calling his dog.  There are seldom more than fifteen or twenty birds in a flock.  They find <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:hiding places in the dense chaparral, and come out into roads and openings to feed in the early morning.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-5">Geological Survey of California.  Ornithology, Vol. I., pp. 545-547.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The reader feels a natural desire to know how this town received its name.  The act of garroting is usually performed by three highwaymen, the victim being seized by the throat from behind, strangled and robbed.  In early days, this region was infested with foot-pads and many travelers were garroted.  From the frequency of these occurrences the two towns derived their name.  Unsuccessful efforts have been made to alter the lugubrious appellation.</p><P>The topographical nomenclature of California is interesting.  Localities have at different times received various names, some of which, if we may be allowed to use the expression, have "stuck"; others have been changed.  Placerville was formerly called "Hangtown," from the large number of disreputable persons hanged on the trees near the early settlement.  We may divide the names of places into four classes: First, those given by the Indians, comparatively few of which are retained; second, the names selected by the Missionary Fathers and their followers (especially the names of towns in Southern California), which usually are found in the calendars of saints; the third class includes the names given by miners during a few years after the discovery of gold and, in occasional instances, at a later date; last, are the names bestowed upon places recently built up, and which may be styled modern names.  A few examples of these will close this digression:</p><P><HI REND="italics">Indian Names</HI>
185.sgm:.--Klamath, from a tribe of that name; Ukiah, from an Indian tribe called Ukiahs; Napa, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:from a tribe in the valley of that name called Napas; Carquinez, the Karquines<ANCHOR ID="n11-6">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: formerly lived on this strait; Shasta, from a tribe of that name; Cosumnes, from an Indian tribe inhabiting the Sacramento Valley called Cosumne; Suisun, Colusa, Yuba, Sonoma, Tulare, and Petaluma, are also Indian names.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-6">Native Races of the Pacific States, H. H. Bancroft, Vol. I., p. 363.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Spanish Names</HI>
185.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n11-7">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: --San Felipe, St. Philip; San Lorenzo, St. Lawrence; San Buenaventura, St. Good Fortune; Santa Cruz, the Holy Cross; San Juan Bautista, St. John the Baptist; Hornitos, Little Ovens; Buena Vista, Good View; Del Norte, of the North; El Dorado, the Golden Land; Placer, Gold Diggings; Contra Costa, Opposite Coast ( <HI REND="italics">i.e.</HI>
185.sgm:, from San Francisco); Monte Diablo, the Devil's Mountain.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-7">The author is indebled for the interpretation of these Spanish names to Resources of California, J. S. Hittell. S. F., 1874.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Miner's Names</HI>
185.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n11-8">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: --Nary Red, Hungry Camp, Slap Jack Bar, Last Chance, Quail Hill, Brandy Gulch, Seven-By-Nine Valley, Poker Flat, Mud Springs, Happy Valley, Dead Mule Can&tilde;on, Shin Bone Peak, Rough and Ready, Red Dog, Rat Trap Slide, Sonora, Dutch Flat, Greasers' Camp, Nigger Hill, Mormon Island, Paint Pot Diggings, Rag Town, Chinese Camp, One Eye, Paradise, Fiddle Town, Mosquito Gulch, Dry Town, Rich Gulch, Poverty Bar, Piety Hill, Git-Up-and-Git, Skinflint, Petticoat Slide, French Gulch, Bogus Thunder, Dog Town, Shirt Tail Can&tilde;on, Spunk Town.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-8">The origin of many of these names is very uncertain, and the history of those that are known is too voluminous for our space.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Modern Names</HI>
185.sgm:.--Mostly those of towns along the lines of the railroads, as Lathrop, Colfax, Niles, Stockton, Milbrae.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>From Garrote the remainder of the ride to the Yosemite Valley is through a different class of country.  We soon leave the mineral belt, and continuing onward over the rolling hills find ourselves in the timber region.</p><P>At Second Garrote, two miles beyond our last stopping place, we see where quite a considerable town has been reduced to two or three houses.</p><P>Five miles farther on is Sprague's Ranch.  This is the type of many farms of the Sierras.  A small fertile valley encompassed by pine-clad hills is "taken-up" by a settler, a house is built, and the rich alluvial soil is cultivated.  An abundant yield repays the hardy pioneer.</p><P>We now enter upon the finest portion of our ride.  A constant rise is before us, and as the stage winds up the grade a great number of grand views present themselves.  We have, a little way back, crossed the Gold Rock Canal, one of the large ditches of the region, and a short distance beyond Sprague's Ranch we see here a high flume, formerly used to conduct this water across a deep ravine, was destroyed several years ago.  A few miles beyond we traverse a well-graded road along a steep mountain side.  In the gorge, about two thousand feet below us, the South Fork of the Tuolumne River dashes over its rocky bed.  In the distance a white speck against the dark green hill-side is a waterfall about one hundred feet high.</p><P>Sixteen miles from Sprague's Ranch is Hodgden's, where dinner is taken and where tourists sometimes spend the night.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>From Hodgden's, the remaining thirteen miles of our journey continue to be all up-hill.  Riding among the dense forests of sugar pines, yellow pines, Douglass firs, and cedars, one cannot fail to be impressed.  The undergrowth found in some parts of the State is wanting here, and we look along the hill-side through grand tree vistas that seem to have no end.  The side-hills appear admirably adapted to the growth of these noble trees, as by their arrangement each individual tree receives a goodly portion of sunshine.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Side by side their ranks they form<LB>To wave on high their plumes of green,<LB>And fight their battles with the storm."</HI>
185.sgm:</p><P>While riding among these lordly pines, before suspecting their presence, we find ourselves surrounded by a group of about thirty-five <HI REND="italics">Sequoias</HI>
185.sgm:.  This is the Tuolumne South Grove.</p><P>We pass on through grand forests, admiring the symmetry and dimensions of the individual trees.  We have at last attained an elevation of 7,000 feet, and are riding over a comparatively level section where the forest is less dense.  Immense granite boulders lie on the surface of the ground either alone or in great masses.  We cross a foaming torrent that not far away leaps over a succession of rocky ledges to the river below.  We are nearing the brink of the Yosemite Valley.</p><P>As we wind down the road from Gentry's--one corner of the Yosemite Grant--to a point near the foot of El Capitan, many grand views present themselves, notwithstanding that all the more noted points of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:interest are hidden behind the rocky portals of the Valley.</p><P>Our space will allow only a brief mention of the other routes to the Yosemite.  We have been particular in describing one of the roads, as it was possible by so doing to incorporate more information regarding the section of the country traversed, which for a considerable area differs only in the less important details, than could otherwise have conveniently been done.</p><P>By either the Mariposa or Coulterville routes the town of Merced (137 miles distant from San Francisco, on the line of the Central Pacific Railroad,) is made the railroad terminus.  The tourist remains here over night and continues the journey by stage.</p><P>We will first describe the "Coulterville Route."  The greater portion of the first day's stage ride is over the San Joaquin Valley and the chaparral covered foot-hills.  The scenery along the road during the journey of the second day is more varied and interesting.  By this route we pass through Coulterville, which, like Big Oak Flat, six miles north, is in a mining district.  Extensive outerops of quartz are seen near the town, while two miles north one of these forms is quite noted, on account of its striking appearance.  This is Pin&tilde;on Blanco (White Rock), a large mass of white quartz surmounting one of the chaparral covered hills of the region.  We spend the night at Dudley's Mill, a short distance beyond Coulterville.</p><P>The chief objects of interest during the second day's stage ride are a fine grove of <HI REND="italics">Sequoias</HI>
185.sgm:, through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:which the road passes, and Bower Cave.  The latter is a cleft in the limestone, about 133 feet long, 86 feet wide, and 109 feet from the crest of the overhanging roof to the surface of a small lake, which fills its lowest drifts.  A fine opportunity is afforded for the study of the formation at the same time one is resting in the cool recess.</p><P>By this route the Yosemite is entered through the steep rocky can&tilde;on of the Merced.  The scenery along this portion of the journey is particularly pleasing.</p><P>The "Mariposa Route" traverses much the same kind of country as does the one just mentioned.  The chief point of interest near this road, which is the most southern of all to the Yosemite, is the Mariposa Grove of Mammoth Trees.  This grove was granted to the State of California at the same time as the Yosemite Valley, and is under the charge of the same Board of Commissioners.  The grove is situated about six miles from the main road, and is reached by trail from Clark's.  It is unfortunate that there is no hotel at the grove for the accommodation of travelers.</p><P>From Clark's a trail formerly led over the mountains and entered the Valley by way of Inspiration Point; the wagon road, although following much the same route, enters the Yosemite nearer the river and below the point where the visitor formerly came in sight of the Yosemite.  This route passes through a region rich in grand views, and possesses many strong points which should not be overlooked while making a selection.  We would reiterate the advice, visit the Valley by one road and return by another.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>It may not be amiss to close this chapter with a few facts relating to the county in which we are now tarrying.  Mariposa extends from the summit of the Sierra Nevada Range to the San Joaquin Valley.  The divide between the Tuolumne and Merced Rivers forms its northern boundary.  Fresno County lies on the south-east and Merced on the south-west.  The length of the county is about 65 miles, and its width 30.  The area is 1,884 square miles.  The western portion of the county consists of low rolling hills, covered with chemisal, with here and there an oak-dotted dell.  Farther east the elevations become greater, and at an altitude of about 3,000 feet moist and fertile valleys are found.  Still farther east the county enters the heavy timber section of the Sierra Nevada.  The Merced River is the only permanent stream in the county.  Mariposa possesses but few large ditches, and placer mining has, therefore, not been extensively engaged in.  Very rich deposits were worked by "dry washing," and where nuggets abounded the gravel was scratched over with knives.  The great place of interest in this county is the Yosemite Valley.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.<LB>THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P>THE Mecca of our pilgrimage has been reached.  The Yosemite Valley with its myriad charms lies before us.  We hesitate as we contemplate the task of attempting to portray its grandeur or its beauty.  There is a something there beside the towering cliffs and impetuous mountain torrents eagerly leaping from dizzy heights; there is yet more than the wandering river, mutely creeping beneath o'er-arching boughs, or noisily hurrying over massive boulders; there is a something beyond the quiet beauty of Mirror Lake, in whose reflecting depths the Morning Light depicts the forms of mountain peaks that cluster near; there is a subtle, mysterious, indescribable feeling of awe, native to the spot, which fascinates the lover of Nature.  The cares of the world of business fade away, and one seems transported to a grander sphere.</p><P>Only those who have viewed face to face the noble forms in this Valley, and in their stately presence felt the deep emotions of a thoughtful mind, can fully appreciate the difficulty of imparting by mere words even a faint idea of the scenery.  We can, at best, but lightly shadow forth the outline of an imperfect skeleton, leaving each individual imagination <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:to round out its living lines of complete fullness and quicken it into the true "eloquence of beauty" which Nature possesses.</p><P>The Yosemite Valley is a narrow gorge, about six miles long, and varies from half a mile to a mile in width.  The floor of the Valley is an almost level stretch of meadow, 4,060 feet above the sea, and sunk nearly a mile below the summits of the surrounding mountains.  This Valley, distant one hundred and fifty miles nearly due east from San Francisco, is about mid-way of the State, north and south, and near the axis of the Sierra Nevada Range.  The Yosemite is not a mere trough cut through the granite mountains, for, although it retains that general appearance and lies nearly at right angles with the axis of the range, a reference to the accompanying map will show that a great number of square recesses and re-entering angles heighten the beauty of its walls.</p><P>The rock mass El Capitan, standing out boldly from the northern wall, and the jutting cliff of the Three Graces opposite, form a grand portal to the Valley proper.  Only two of the most noted attractions are found without this rocky gateway--Inspiration Point and the Bridal Veil Fall.  By no means are either of these or other less noted features to be passed as unworthy of attention.  They, in a small degree, prepare us for the grander scenery within the almost perpendicular door-posts.</p><P>As we enter the Valley the first permanent fall which attracts our notice is Pohono, or, as more generally known, the Bridal Veil.  One of the charms <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:of this interesting cataract is an Indian legend.  In the Yosemite, but one object of note--the Yosemite Fall--retains the title bestowed by the former inhabitants.  A few cling to the Indian names, but the many know only the more recent terms.  The poetic legends of the Valley have been mostly forgotten with the departure of those who had for every rock a story.  We fondly cling to the few mystic tales that relate to some leading points of interest.  The Indians tell of one of their women, who, gathering berries by the creek above this fall, slipped into the hurrying torrent, was swept over the brink, and seen no more.  They dare not sleep near the cataract, and in passing quicken their pace, for, in their superstitious dread, they hear the lost maiden ever warning them, with plaintive wail, to beware of Pohono--the Spirit of the Evil Wind.</p><P>The ledge from which the water leaps is 900 feet above the Valley floor, but, owing to the mass of <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm: at the base of the cliff, only 630 feet are perpendicular fall, the remaining height being completed by a series of cascades, which from some locations are entirely hidden by surrounding trees.  Like all the falls in the region, this one, in a great measure, depends for its volume on the snow in the immediate vicinity.  A few weeks suffice to greatly change its appearance.  When the water is abundant it is precipitated in a bold curve over the crown of the cliff, but by the middle of July a mere thread, as it were, trickles down the wall.  When the stream is of medium volume its picturesque effect is finest.  As it leaps over the wall, the water is caught by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:strong wind and drifted in folds of spray to the moss-covered rocks below; and when the afternoon sun sinks behind the opposite cliffs, myriad rainbows dance among the mist.</p><P>In early spring, the snow, which during the winter has accumulated on ledges, cliffs and domes around the Valley, melts and trickles over the granite walls, in some places as a single slender thread, and at others forming a consecutive series of minor falls.  A day or even an hour sometimes is the time of duration of these transitory cascades, while all of them entirely disappear in a few weeks after the snow begins to thaw.  Thus, when with deafening roar the larger streams are pouring their swollen torrents over the cliffs, the entire rocky wall is, in places, pencilled with a maze of less noisy rills.  These form a liquid lace-work, hanging, as it were, over the precipitous cliffs and gently swayed by the restless breeze.</p><P>Once passed within the eastern division of the Valley, the walls become generally higher and more irregular, while a smaller quantity of <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm: lies at the foot of the cliffs.  From this more interesting portion two can&tilde;ons penetrate the mountain fastnesses beyond.  One of these passes between the South Dome and Washington Column, divides Cloud's Rest from Mount Watkins, and forming the can&tilde;on of the Tenaya Creek looses itself among the spurs of Mount Hoffmann.</p><P>The other is less steep and much shorter, being merely a recess in the south wall of the Valley, which terminates at a nearly perpendicular cliff, over one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:part of which the Illilouette, or South Fork of the Merced, pours the waters from the eastern slope of Buena Vista Peak, while at another point the Nevada and Vernal Falls on the Merced River are situated.  The Merced conveys the water from the eastern slopes of Mount Starr King and Mount Clark, the western flank of the range of high mountains that extend from Cathedral Peak, south-east to Mount Lyell and the northern side of the elevated ridge stretching thence to the Mount Clark group.</p><P>Back and to the left of the Bridal Veil is a group of rocks that resemble partly demolished sugar loaves.  These are the Three Graces, a picturesque portion of the Valley's southern door-post.  Back of these, and visible only after the upper portion of the Valley has been entered, are the Cathedral Rocks, which constitute the eastern side of this impressive granite mass.  These rocks present the finest appearance when seen from about the middle of the Valley.  The principal mass stands out from the valley-wall, showing two nearly perpendicular faces, which meeting almost at right angles attain a height of 2,660 feet.  The upper portion closely resembles the ruined towers of some medieval church.  On the summit, as well as in the crevices where a little earth has accumulated, stately pines are growing, which from the plain seem but a few inches in height.  Comparatively little <HI REND="italics">talus</HI>
185.sgm: is found at the base of the cliffs, and except when the observer is on the spot, this is entirely concealed by a fine growth of trees that skirt the river.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:<P>To the east of this interesting rock-mass is a steep defile filled with huge blocks of fractured granite.  Here, as in all similar localities in the Yosemite, and as along most of the mountain ledges, at every point where they can find nourishment, trees are growing.  It is these verdure-clothed ledges which, in a measure, hide the jagged lines of mountain fracture, and beautify the stern gray walls.</p><P>Each mountain, dome, fall and rock-mass presents an almost entirely different appearance from variant points of view.  Gladly, therefore, does the enthusiastic lover of scenery avail himself of each opportunity to follow some unfrequented defile over masses of broken granite to an unvisited ledge on the mountain wall whence new beauties in the everchanging landscape repay his exertion.  Pleasing is it ever to watch the contest of lights and shadows as they battle along the cliffs, pursuing each other up and down the walls, around every crag and behind each towering pinnacle.</p><P>At the east of the Cathedral Rocks, where the valley-wall recedes, we see, among a group of pointed peaks, two that have, from their especial formation, been styled the Cathedral Spires.  There were formerly three of these, but, a few years since, the most easterly one was thrown down by an earthquake.  The slope at its base was covered with tons of shattered granite, while the whole region felt the force of its fall.  The place where it formerly stood is plainly seen from the floor of the Valley.</p><P>The Indians named these spires <HI REND="italics">Posinaschucka</HI>
185.sgm:, a term interpreted to mean a large cache-basket, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:the rocks greatly resemble.  The Indians store their food--in this section mostly acorns--in large baskets sometimes in trees and often on poles stuck in the ground, while over the basket they build a thatch of pine branches.</p><P>We have extendedly dwelt upon the features of the southern gate-post of the Valley, in order to give them a prominence commensurate with their attractions, because they are usually slighted by the visitor when first entering the Yosemite.  The stupendous granite mountain on the opposite wall generally so moves the beholder that, howsoever interesting neighboring objects may be, all sink to insignificence before the towering majesty of El Capitan.</p><P>El Capitan is a solid mountain of granite, standing boldly forth from the northern rim of the Yosemite Valley.  Like Cathedral Rock, little <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm: is at its base, and its almost vertical sides<ANCHOR ID="n12-1">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: meeting form a well-defined angle.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1">Although the face of El Capitan appears nearly vertical, it is far from it, as the base stands 1,200 feet in advance of the brow.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>One who has not seen this mass can have but a faint idea of its immensity.  Riding through the Valley and looking up at the dwarfed trees on the crest of El Capitan, mere specks against the transparent blue of the sky beyond, or from that summit looking down into the narrow valley, one cannot be unmoved.  Other peaks attain much greater altitudes, but seldom is a persom more impressed with the feeling of magnitude.  As, in our dwarfed understanding, we cannot conceive the immensity of space or eternity, neither do we form an idea of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:massiveness of those granite mountains until we see the section of one exposed from crown to base.</p><P>The face of this rock is 3,300 feet in height.  In New York the spire of Trinity Church is looked upon as almost piercing the clouds, yet it would require twelve such spires placed on the top of each other to equal in height El Capitan.  The extremity of the cross on St. Peter's, at Rome, is 448 feet above the pavement.  El Capitan is nearly eight times as high.  The spire of that masterpiece of Gothic architecture--Strasburg Cathedral--is 468 feet high, and still the compound height of seven such structures would not equal the height of this rock mass.  If a line of men of ordinary height were standing in the Valley, with another row standing on their shoulders, and on their shoulders another line, before the last man could reach the summit of El Capitan, there would be more than 1,300 men in the group.</p><P>The Indian name for this mountain is <HI REND="italics">Totoko&acute;nula</HI>
185.sgm: (usually spelt Tutocanula).  Several interpretations of its origin have been suggested, one of which is that the word was thought by the aboriginies to resemble in sound the cry of the sand-hill cranes that sometimes, flying over this mountain, enter the Valley.  Still another rendering is that a fancied image on the mountain wall has long limbs, and in that respect resembles a crane.</p><P>Riding up the Valley, the next chief object of interest, on the northern side, after passing El Capitan, is a granite mass which, shelving backward, appears from the plain to form a series of three steps, tilted considerably to the right.  These bear a faint <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:resemblance, especially the middle one, to frogs about to jump; hence, they may have derived their name, Leaping Frog Rocks.  Another interpretation is that they somewhat resemble boys in the act of playing leap-frog, and that their designation should be, "Mountains Playing Leap-Frog," but this is a questionable rendering.  The Indian term, which is claimed to admit either of these translations, is <HI REND="italics">Pompompasus</HI>
185.sgm:.  Perhaps a more authentic appellative is <HI REND="italics">Wawhawke</HI>
185.sgm:, or "Falling Rocks."  They are, however, commonly known as the Three Brothers, and form a very impressive group.  The highest peak, sometimes called Eagle Point, is 3,830 feet above the Valley.  The back of the group is a nearly perpendicular wall, broken by occasional ledges on which grow clumps of trees.</p><P>On the southern wall, and almost opposite the Three Brothers, stands the Sentinel, or, as sometimes called, Sentinel Rock.  The latter name is applied to distinguish it from one of the round-topped mountains of the region, which stands behind it, and is styled Sentinel Dome.  The Sentinel is an interesting feature, and attracts attention as well by its form as by its dimensions.  It is shaped much like an obelisk, the face of the upper portion being nearly vertical.  The apex is 3,043 feet above the Valley, and 1,000 feet above the southern wall of which it forms a part.  A considerable amount of <HI REND="italics">talus</HI>
185.sgm: lies at its foot.  We can see where large blocks of granite have been loosened from the cliffs by the action of the elements.  The rock is frequently so fractured that the whole looks like an immense structure of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:brickwork.  When such a mass is severed from the wall and slides to the valley, it breaks into a multitude of smaller pieces, which pour down over the cliffs in regular channels.  Many such may be seen in the vicinity, being easily traced by the worn cliffs as well as the pulverized granite, which, remaining on the ledges, attracts attention by the glare of its whitish color.  At the foot of the Sentinel the soil is very sandy.  This sand is coarse, and consists of disintegrated granite.  Growing on the soil we notice the bastard cedar ( <HI REND="italics">Libocedrus decurrens</HI>
185.sgm: ), the yellow pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus ponderosa</HI>
185.sgm: ), and the black oak ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus Sonomensis</HI>
185.sgm: ).  The large acorns of the latter are the chief food of the Indians.  Of less stately representatives of the plant world, we find the common brake ( <HI REND="italics">Pteris aquilina </HI>
185.sgm: ), the <HI REND="italics">Pentstemon lactus</HI>
185.sgm:, which never fails to attract attention by its beautiful blue flowers, and another plant, both pretty and interesting, the <HI REND="italics">Spraguea umbellata</HI>
185.sgm:.  The <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm: at the base of the cliff is covered with a compact growth of evergreen-oaks, maples, laurels, and manzanitas.  Along the ledges above the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm:, pines are growing.  The three principal hotels are near the base of the Sentinel.  It affords one much pleasure to watch the effects of lights and shadows on the face of this obelisk, especially when the large fleecy clouds, sometimes seen, slowly float overhead.  The Indians call this rock <HI REND="italics">Loya</HI>
185.sgm:, a word supposed by some to mean "camp-fire" or "signal-station," and it is thought that they may have used the summit for an outlook, as it commands a great area of country.  Mr. Hutchings says <HI REND="italics">Loya</HI>
185.sgm: means a medicinal shrub.  This shows the difficulty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:of arriving at the real meaning of Indian names at the Yosemite.</p><P>On the right side of this interesting rock-mass is the Sentinel Fall, which consists of a series of beautiful cascades and cataracts.  The stream that pours over the rocks here is one that flows but a short time in the spring.  We have omitted another similar fall, just west of El Capitan--the Virgin's Tears--which is directly opposite the Bridal Veil.  During the brief period of its existence the waterfall presents one of the most beautiful objects in the Valley.  It is more than a thousand feet high, and is situated in a deep recess in the northern wall.</p><P>To the left of the Sentinel, on the Valley rim, we notice a peculiar rock, resembling a boulder, which, standing on the brink of the precipice, appears ready to fall at any instant; nevertheless, it has held its giddy post for ages, and appears no less secure than it may have been a century ago.  This curious rock has been named Agassiz Column.</p><P>We are now in the most interesting portion of the Valley, many of the leading points of interest are in the immediate vicinity, while on all sides hundreds of objects excite the curiosity of the visitor and the ever changing aspects of the scenery surfeit his love for the grand and beautiful.</p><P>It is in this section that the greater portion of meadow-land is situated.  The soil is of a peaty nature, and sustains a rank growth of vegetation.  In the spring the Merced is so swollen that the main channel proves insufficient to carry the increased amount of water, which, backing up, overflows this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:meadow.  When the water subsides, in the quiet pools we see beautiful reflections.  These mirror-views are a constant source of delight.  Not only are the grander outlines of the mountains reproduced, but every crag, ledge and line of fracture, every shade and shadow, each tree, flower and blade of grass--all are faithfully photographed.  Another feature of these meadows are the mounds of fertile earth which are covered with a dense growth of pink columbines, and larkspurs of various shades of blue, varying from indigo to a delicate bluish-white.  Together with these are large brakes and a pretty native lily, which we will describe.  This is the <HI REND="italics">Lilium parvum</HI>
185.sgm: of Kellogg.  It usually grows to a height of eighteen inches, but is in these favored localities much taller.  The leading characteristics of the plant are partially erect flowers and scattered leaves.  The flowers, which are abundant, are small and bell-shaped.  These plants resemble tiger lilies in the marking on the petals.</p><P>The Merced, or, as the Spanish settlers called this stream, <HI REND="italics">el Rio de los Merced</HI>
185.sgm: --the River of Mercy--is noted in this locality for the many picturesque grove by its banks.  The river flows over a sandy bed, and winds through the meadow in a series of broad curves.  The stream is as clear as crystal, and one can easily see the fish quickly gliding from one deep pool to another.  This water, like all the Sierra streams, is icy cold, for it should be remembered that it is but a few hours since the genial sun wakened it to life on the granite slopes of the higher peaks.  The Balm of Gilead poplar ( <HI REND="italics">Populus balsamifera</HI>
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185.sgm:grows abundantly along its banks in this part of the Valley.  Indeed, the clumps of trees add manifold charms to the stream.  These sequestered regions of the Merced are ever adorned with a varying beauty.  A wild, impetuous torrent appears to have become exhausted in leaping from one boulder to another, and placidly glides into the rest that an almost level course permits, before it is again lashed to foam in the rapids at the western end of the Valley.  Flowing through the meadows, the surface of the river is unruffled, save by occasional eddies where it hurries around some jutting point, or by ripples when it glides over sandy bars.  As he writes, the author has before him one of Mr. J. J. Reilly's beautiful photographs, bearing the title "Day Dawn in the Yosemite Valley."  This is a view on the Merced.  The foreground is filled by a large bend in the stream, which issues from behind a clump of trees.  Its right hand foreground is flecked with fleecy foam, but near the outer bank a rippling tide reflects the sun's warm rays with silvery sheen.  The North and South Domes form the background.  Their steeply sloping cliffs are obscured in deepest shade, while fragmentary clouds, floating overhead, wrap this part of the picture in additional gloom.</p><P>All of the hotels, except Snow's, are near the south bank of the river in this part of the Valley.  The visitor may thence make many pleasing short excursions, while from the porches of the houses a majority of the leading objects of interest are in sight.  From the verandas the chief attraction is the Yosemite Fall.  This is not one unbroken descent, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:consists of a perpendicular plunge of 1,500 feet, a series of minor cataracts aggregating a vertical height of 626 feet, and a final fall of about 400 feet.  These falls are in almost the same vertical plane, so that the whole is quite as effective, and perhaps more picturesque, than would be the case were the total depth accomplished in one plunge.  The first descent is made over an almost vertical wall.  The rim of the cliff is slightly concave, the most remote portion being that over which the water is poured.  The most easterly extremity of this precipice rises to a height of 3,030 feet above the Valley.  The water pours through a deeply cut channel and over the lip of the highest fall, and about a hundred feet below strikes on a projecting ledge from which it shoots out in a fine curve.  From rough points on this ledge sprays of water are shot into the air in the shape of cones, and in descending so nearly resemble rockets as to warrant this appellation.  Many of these "rockets" continue in this form until they strike the rocks below.  The wind exercises a potent influence on this long, slender fall, almost always swaying it from side to side, and occasionally carrying it so far from the line of perpendicular descent that, for a few seconds, no water falls into the basin, but is all dashed against the cliff and seeks the Valley through unusual channels.</p><P>The upper fall strikes on a sloping ledge that, from the Valley, seems very narrow.  This, however, is about a third of a mile wide.  The creek traverses this bench in a deeply worn channel, in which several fine cataracts cut their grooves.  Some of them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:may be seen from different localities, but from most points these cascades are completely hidden.</p><P>The lower fall is scarcely affected by the currents of air.  When the water is abundant, it is thrown over the rim of the cliff in a large curve, and strikes on huge blocks of granite with sullen roar.  As the stream diminishes, and scarcely more than spray reaches the large granite basin at the foot of the upper fall, the water runs over the steeply-sloping face of the lower precipice until it strikes a sloping ledge, which carries it considerably to the left.  At the base of the lowest fall the creek divides into several channels, which ultimately form one stream.  A good trail leads to the foot of the upper fall, and the fine views obtained while making the ascent amply pay for the time and effort expended.  It is to be hoped that at no distant day this trail may be continued to the top of the cliff over which the upper fall leaps.</p><P>East of the Yosemite Fall is a steep defile, called Indian Can&tilde;on.  This ravine is filled with <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm: to a great height, many pieces of the granite being more than ten feet square.  A trail formerly led over these fragments.  This has been in places destroyed, so that the excursion can, at present, be made only on foot.  This trail should be repaired.  When that is done, the one previously mentioned continued, and the Yosemite Creek bridged above the fall, this part of the Valley will be more frequently visited and appreciated.</p><P>The Yosemite Creek rises on the western slope of Mount Hoffmann, ten miles distant, in a north-easterly course from the Valley.  The stream, which is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:supplied by the melting snows on the mountain side, follows the bed of an ancient glacier.  At many points one can see where the granite has been polished by slowly moving ice.  The bed of the creek above the fall is a narrow granite valley, with steeply-sloping sides.  At many points along this valley we see immense boulders that have been brought from the mountains beyond by the ice river.  Late in the year one may follow the bed of the Yosemite Creek nearly to the lip of the upper fall.  The rocks are very smooth and the verge of the cliff so curved that we cannot safely approach it.  As we stand in that rocky gateway, how grand is the view of the Valley below, dotted with miniature trees--how impressive the face of the Sentinel opposite, and how beautiful is the coloring on the cliffs down the Valley, where they are painted by the rays of the fast declining sun!</p><P>Just east of Indian Can&tilde;on, and towering above the Valley wall, of which its base forms a part, stands the North Dome.  The summit may be reached by way of that defile, and the grand views disclosed, as well as the opportunity of studying the rock structure of the region, amply repay the fatiguing climb.  The Indians call this mountain <HI REND="italics">Tokoya</HI>
185.sgm:, a word which is translated to mean "the basket."<ANCHOR ID="n12-2">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: Mr. S. M. Cunningham kindly acted as interpreter for the author, his familiarity with the Indian language affording an opportunity of obtaining much information relating to the legendary lore of this rapidly disappearing tribe.  On one occasion the Chief stated that <HI REND="italics">Tokoya</HI>
185.sgm: means in his language, a "pap," and, because of its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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185.sgm:close resemblance to the female breast, the dome-shaped mountain received its name.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-2">Yosemite Guide Book, J.D. Whitney, Pocket Edition of 1874, p. 22.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>A portion of the Valley side of the base to the North Dome has been removed, thus exposing its structure.  From the face of this almost perpendicular cliff large blocks of granite have slid down, leaving arches formed by the convex shells that compose the mountain.  These fine arcs attract much attention, and have received the name Royal Arches.  The Indians call them <HI REND="italics">Sohokoni</HI>
185.sgm:, a word meaning the wicker-work shade over the top of the baskets in which their children are carried.  When the snow melts along the cliffs, tiny rills trickle over this wall, and follow the ledges, keeping alive brilliant bands of purple lichens<ANCHOR ID="n12-3">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: that add much to the picturesque effect of the bare granite.  This cliff terminates abruptly where the Tenaya Can&tilde;on begins.  Washington Column, a singular tower-like mass of striking appearance, stands at the end of the northern wall of the Valley.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-3">Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada, Clarence King, Boston, 1874, p. 143.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The grand feature of this section is the South, or, as sometimes called, the Half Dome.  This impressive land-mark which is seen from almost all the elevated points of view is hidden by nearer cliffs as we ride through the door-posts to the Yosemite, and not until the visitor gains the meadows does it enter his range of vision.  From nearly every different location this mountain presents a dissimilar appearance.  Where its long steeply sloping base is seen, its height is apparently lessened, but when only the more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:elevated portion is in view, its lordly summit towers in solitary majesty above every point in the Valley.<ANCHOR ID="n12-4">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: The crest is 4,737 feet above the meadow.  The shape of the South Dome is such that but one party has ever succeeded in reaching the summit, an undertaking few will care to attempt, and a still smaller number can accomplish.  The side that faces the North Dome is an absolutely perpendicular wall for 1,500 feet down from the apex.  It then slopes at an angle of from 60&deg; or 70&deg;<ANCHOR ID="n12-5">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: to the bed of the can&tilde;on.  This steep slope is not composed of <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm: as are many in the vicinity, but is solid granite.  The opposite side consists of a sharp curve and a slope of perhaps 80&deg;, which continues to the line where the mountain unites with the elevated granite wall.  Though not as abrupt, the other parts of the mountain are scarcely less difficult of ascent.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-4">Cloud's Rest, back of the South Dome, seems to more properly belong to the High Sierra than the Yosemite, and is here, so regarded.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-5">Yosemite Guide Book, J. D. Whitney, Pocket Ed., 1874, p. 96.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The Indians have coupled with El Capitan and the South Dome one of their most pleasing legends.  The former was the abode of the Semi-Deity of the Valley-- <HI REND="italics">Totoko&acute;nula</HI>
185.sgm: --who supplied their earthly wants.  The South Dome was the habitation of a super-natural maiden, <HI REND="italics">Tesaiyac</HI>
185.sgm: (frequently spelt Tisayac.)  Each mountain received the name of the being supposed to abide there.  <HI REND="italics">Tesaiyac</HI>
185.sgm: is described as a sea-nymph from the south, endowed with wings, and partially enveloped in a floating cloud.  Her fine golden hair hung in long wavelets.  Her eyes of heavenly blue heightened the charm of a lovely face.  <HI REND="italics">Totoko&acute;nula</HI>
185.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:became enamored of her beauty and followed her from crag to peak in vain pursuit.  Without his care the inhabitants of the Valley were menanced with many dangers; the waters wasted away, the herbage withered, the leaves dropped from the oaks and the acorns ceased to grow.  In their distress they vainly prayed to their infatuated guardian.  <HI REND="italics">Tesaiyac</HI>
185.sgm: heard their cries and, repenting the evil she had caused them, disappeared from the South Dome forever.  At that instant a severe earthquake was felt, and the South Dome was rent in twain, half of it disappeared, and the cooling waters from Lake <HI REND="italics">Tenaya</HI>
185.sgm:, which had previously emptied into the Tuolumne, filled the parched bed of the Merced, and refreshed the thirsty land.  The song of babbling waters and the drooping willows' soft replies again were heard, the herbs revived, the oaks resumed their robes of green, the needed acorns reached a full fruition, and plenty filled the happy land.  The night was approaching its noon, the cliffs were wrapped in darkness and the embers of the camp-fire were slowly dying away, as the old Indian added, that <HI REND="italics">Tesaiyac</HI>
185.sgm: lowered a cloud on which <HI REND="italics">Totoko&acute;nula</HI>
185.sgm: mounted to the regions of the blest.  The Indians aver that the little white violets, scattered through the meadow-lands, had their origin in the down from <HI REND="italics">Tesaiyac's</HI>
185.sgm: wings that the breeze wafted thither when the maiden departed.</p><P>Proceeding up the Tenaya Can&tilde;on--that branch of the Yosemite Valley which has its mouth between the North and South Domes--we reach a beautiful sheet of water, about two acres in extent, called <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:Mirror Lake.  This is chiefly noted for the beautiful reflections it gives of the surrounding mountains.  When its surface is unruffled, we see in the clear depths the inverted pictures of all the objects around.  The most favorable time in the day for visiting this lake is before sunrise, which, owing to the high wall of the South Dome, does not, in June, take place, until nearly eight o'clock.  The water is then usually placid and the reflections finest.  As the rising sun peeps over the mountain wall, a bright fiery ball appears to gradually roll up through the water over the reflected cliff, and dazzles our eyes with its brilliancy.  Presently the full reflected sun shines from the water, and in a few seconds later the original comes into full view.  When a breeze comes down the can&tilde;on and hurries across the pool, "the polish'd mirror of the lake" is shattered.  Standing by the mountain lake, admiring the varied foliage of the trees that deck its margin, we feel the deep emotions naturally evoked by the impressive scenes that surround us.  Pleasant are the author's memories of nights spent here, when, rolled in comfortable blankets by a friendly log, he watched the sparks from a crackling camp-fire floating among the trees, and the dancing shadows playing beside the boulders.  The full bright moon shed her cool light over the mountain peaks and the nestling lake, where <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Every wave with dimpled face,<LB>That leap'd into the air,<LB>Had caught a star in its embrace,<LB>And held it trembling there."</HI>
185.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>It has been stated that the southern fork of the Yosemite Valley is merely a recess in the valley wall, which is separated from the Tenaya Can&tilde;on by the high bluff at the foot of the South Dome.  A little more than a mile east of the Sentinel the cliffs, of which that forms a part, turn abruptly to the south, making almost a right angle.  The summit of this bend is Glacier Point.  It faces to the east and drops in a perpedicular wall, about half the distance to the meadow, terminating in a steep smooth slope.  Numerous pinnacles surmount the mountain wall which faces the Yosemite Fall.</p><P>The Valley at the foot of these cliffs is level and dotted with clumps of trees, and in some places adorned with dense thickets of fragrant azaleas ( <HI REND="italics">Azalea occidentalis</HI>
185.sgm: ), which grow to the height of three or four feet.</p><P>Continuing along the trail through the southern arm of the Valley, the ground is strewn thick with granite fragments.  We soon cross Illilouette Creek, sometimes called the South Fork of the Merced.  A glance at the map will show the course of this stream.  Passing from the elevated region to the south, the Illilouette flows through a V shaped valley until it reaches the southern wall of the Yosemite.  It here makes a plunge of about six hundred feet, and then hurries over masses of boulders until it unites with the Merced.  The tourist, who follows the trail from Glacier Point to the Little Yosemite, will see on the side of the can&tilde;on, through which the Illilouette flows, an immense furrow ploughed down the mountain slope.  This was caused by a cloud burst.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:<P>The over-laden cloud struck the sharp crest and broke.  The torrent grooved a wide, deep channel down the mountain side; trees, boulders and earth were hurried into the creek and onward over the fall, covering the Valley at its foot with tons of <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm:.  Here a fine growth of conifers, so great was the shock of the raging waters, were overwhelmed.</p><P>The trip to the Illilouette Fall is toilsome and seldom undertaken, as no trail has been built thither.  A fine view of the cataract is obtained from the Mirror Lake trail.  The volume of water is about equal to that in the Yosemite Creek, and the height of the fall nearly the same as the lowest leap of that stream.</p><P>Soon after crossing the Illilouette we reach the base of the southern wall.  Leaving our horses, and following a foot-path for a few hundred feet, we come in view of the Vernal Fall--the lower of the two main cataracts of the Merced.  The path continues along the sloping mountain side to the foot of the cliff over which the water leaps, thence a series of ladders lead to the summit of the fall.  This was formerly the only way of reaching the Nevada Fall, about a mile further up stream.  The journey is now made by horse, a good trail having been cut along the Valley wall.  As we ascend a multitude of commanding views present themselves.  Reaching Snow's, near the foot of the Nevada Fall, we lunch and then leisurely survey the scene.</p><P>Let us first preface our remarks relating to the falls by a few words as to the river itself.  The Merced gathers the melting snows from the semicircle of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:elevated mountains, of which Cathedral Peak, Mount Lyell, and Mount Clark are the dominating points.  Having its head in the region of perpetual snow, although suffering some diminution, in no season is the volume of water exhausted.  The stream traverses the Little Yosemite, which at some points presents a striking counterpart to its better known namesake, and pours over the southern wall in two separate falls and a long series of rapids.  The river accomplishes in the distance of two miles a perpendicular descent of 2,000 feet.<ANCHOR ID="n12-6">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: The two main falls aggregate a vertical height of 1,000 feet, and the beautiful rapids between them 300 feet more.  The remaining 700 feet of descent is made by the stream before reaching the meadow land.  The Merced at this part seems to be a river of foam, while from other points it resembles a rift of snow clogging the narrow gorge.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-6">Yosemite Guide Book, J. D. Whitney, Pocket Ed., 1874, p. 99.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>The Vernal, or lower fall of the Merced, differs widely from any in the vicinity, the dissimilarity of these cataracts being a characteristic of the region.  Approaching the fall from below, whence it presents the finest appearance, if the water is abundant, we see a powerful stream swiftly pouring over a slightly concave wall.  From a distance the fall seems a white ribbon stretched over the cliff.  It is not easy to ascertain the height of this cataract, for, although the wall is vertical for a considerable distance from the top, its base is a steep slope.  Prof. Whitney writes.<ANCHOR ID="n12-7">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "Our measurements give all the way from 315 to 475 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:feet as the vertical height of the fall, between the months of June and October."  He approximates its height in round numbers at 400 feet.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-7">Yosemite Guide Book, J. D. Whitney, Pocket Ed., 1874, p. 99.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>From Snow's we approach the fall from above.  Leaning against a natural parapet on the face of the cliff, and looking over, we see the water striking the angular rocks, while clouds of spray deluge the lower slopes of the mountain, where a few pines are growing and the rocks covered with rank mosses and ferns.  At some times the water, as it curves over the cliff, has a beautiful green tint, from which its name probably originated.  The general appearance is that of a mass of diamonds set in frosted silver.  The Indians call this fall <HI REND="italics">Peiwayak</HI>
185.sgm:, a name translated as "white water," "sparkling water," or "a shower of crystals."  From the parapet the ladders before mentioned lead to a grotto in the mountain wall at the side of the fall.  Along ledges of rock are numerous large and beautiful ferns ( <HI REND="italics">Adiantum pedatum</HI>
185.sgm: ).  The botanist at Yosemite in June will find many additions worthy of his herbarium.</p><P>At the summit of the Vernal Fall the granite is generally smooth and slopes to the stream.  The river between the two falls is a foaming torrent.  About midway of this distance, and near where the bridge to Snow's crosses it, the stream rushes through a narrow crevice, its abrupt descent causing beautiful rapids, which are called the Diamond Race.</p><P>The Nevada Fall is in some respects the finest in the region.  It carries a greater volume of water than any of its height in the neighborhood.  The descent is not a perpendicular plunge, for part way down the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:sparkling stream strikes a projecting ledge, which sends a portion back toward the lip of the fall.  From this ledge the torrent seems to slide down the steep slope like a perpetual avalanche.  At high water the blinding spray prevents an accurate measurement, while late in the year it is almost impossible to decide exactly where the fall terminates and the rapids begin.  Prof. Whitney says:<ANCHOR ID="n12-8">*</ANCHOR>
185.sgm: "Our measurements made the Nevada Fall 591 to 639 feet at different times and seasons."  He places the average height at 600 feet.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-8">Yosemite Guide Book, Pocket Ed., 1874, p. 101.</NOTE>
185.sgm:<P>Snow's Hotel, on the rocky plateau between the Vernal and Nevada Falls, is a very comfortable hostelry, and the scenery will richly repay a few day's rest, even if the visitor's time be limited.  From this place many delightful rambles may be had along the cliffs, as well as into the Little Yosemite.</p><P>The Cap of Liberty is a striking rock-mass, which stands alone.  The summit, which is 2,000 feet above its base, may be reached by a tiresome climb from Snow's.  The Cap of Liberty is scarcely less interesting than the South Dome.  Whether seen from below the Vernal or Nevada Falls, its effect is much the same.  When we stand at the base, and look up the almost perpendicular side, from which large fragments appear to have been chipped by some Titan's hammer, the immensity of this stupendous mass is thoroughly appreciated.</p><P>Our space permits only a few remarks about the Indians.  Indeed, we fear this is a subject few tourists wish closely to investigate.  Degraded as they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:are, and filthy, too, yet it is not uninteresting to study the prehistoric traditions, origin, and manners of these wrecks of former powerful tribes, stranded on the shores of the nineteenth century.</p><P>The Yosemite Valley seems to have been the resort of outlaws from numerous tribes.  The depredations of these outcasts proved the immediate cause of their overthrow as well as the discovery by the white man of their stronghold.  The more powerful Monos, smarting under many grievances, at last dealt a blow that almost annihilated the tribe, scarcely more than a score remaining at the present day.  These few have been partially civilized, but still live in rude huts, and, when they cannot beg their food, subsist on fish and acorn-flour.  The process of making their bread is interesting.  The acorns are gathered in large cone-shaped baskets, carried on the backs of squaws.  The outer covering is broken off, and the lobes of the seed thrown into large baskets.  These are carried to a flat rock in which natural or artificial hollows--about four inches in diameter--are found.  The nuts are put into these holes and pulverized with round stones.  The flour is taken to a spot near running water, where the soil is sandy.  A hole, shaped like a saucer, about three feet in diameter, is scooped in the fine sand.  The Indian women are very handy in making these sand-saucers, and the circle is scarcely less perfect than would be the case were it drawn with an instrument.  The flour is placed in this basin of sand to the thickness of about an inch on sides and bottom.  Water is poured over the flour, and, as it perculates through the sand, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:seems to carry away the bitter principle of the acorn.  When sufficiently prepared in this way, the squaw scoops out the dough with her hands and puts it into a basket about eighteen inches in diameter.  The portion to which sand adheres is placed in another basket, and the sand washed away.  During the time that these operations have been going on, a fire near by has heated a number of smooth stones of about two pounds weight.  These are taken from the fire with long sticks and dropped into the basket full of thin acorn dough.  The heat from the stones cooks the bread--which is about the consistency of mush.  The stones are then taken out and the bread removed with the hands, and in the shape of large lumps is placed in the cold water near.  This food tastes much like cornmeal gruel that is not seasoned.  The baskets in which the cooking is done are water-tight.</p><P>A pleasing excursion is that to Inspiration Point, on the south wall, west of the Bridal Veil and near where the cliffs approach to form the Can&tilde;on of the Merced.  The views obtained are grand, and the many opportunities for studying such points as we have noted in the beginning of this chapter will repay the visitor for the time consumed.</p><P>The finest trip of all is a ride along the southern wall from Glacier Point to Cloud's Rest.  By this trail we ascend the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm: at the base of the Sentinel and thence to Union Point, 2,300 feet above the Valley, from which eminence we can study that curious rock, Agassiz Column, now just below us.  From Union Point we climb the steep mountain slope, covered with dense chaparral, and reach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:Glacier Point.  From no part of the Valley wall, so easy of access, can such extensive and varied views be obtained.  The Vernal and Nevada Falls are seen below us to the right, while back of them in the distance towers Mount Clark.  We next ascend Sentinel Dome, an altitude of 4,150 feet above the Valley.  From this elevation the South Dome, towering 587 feet above the summit on which we stand, looms up in grander appearance than from any other locality.  We here have a rare opportunity of studying the topography of the country, but the High Sierra to the east kindles eager longings for a trip among their fastnesses.  From Sentinel Dome we ride near the south valley wall, crossing the Illilouette and Merced, and descending by a steep grade to Snow's.  Thence the ride to the summit of Cloud's Rest consumes but a few hours, and the grand views of the high peaks of the California Alps form one of greatest attractions near the Yosemite.</p><P>We have thus briefly surveyed the charms of the Valley, but before leaving its mystic precincts let us review a few of its leading characteristics.</p><P>The Yosemite Valley consists of three portions.  The first of these is a nearly level area, which is about four and a half miles long and extremely variable in width.  It is only 35 feet higher at the mouth of the Tenaya Can&tilde;on than at the foot of the Bridal Veil Fall.</p><P>The second important section of the Valley is the piles of <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm: which line the base of the wall at all but a few points.  Notwithstanding the large quantities of <HI REND="italics">talus</HI>
185.sgm: at their base, the height of this broken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:mass shows but an inconsiderable altitude when compared to the walls themselves.  The most <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm: is at the base of the cliff between the Sentinel and Glacier Point, while at the foot of El Capitan and the Yosemite Fall this ever-present feature of the landscape is scarcely noticed.  While describing the Sentinel we have mention the leading trees on the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
185.sgm:.  It should be observed that the vegetation is greatly affected by the physical features of the Valley, so that for the limited area the flora is very extensive.</p><P>We have described the salient features of the third portion of the Yosemite--the cliffs.  These are nearly or quite vertical.  Our space has permitted mention of only the leading points.  When it is remembered that the narrow valley is entirely surrounded by precipices, varying from two to four thousand feet high, cut by a few steep and difficulty traversed defiles, the reader will understand how the Indians were able for so long a time to defy entrance and assault.  The cliffs are a cold gray color, and present a dazzling appearance in a bright sunlight.  Their chief charms of color lie in the contrasts between the rock, striped in places with bands of warmer color and the brilliant green of the vegetation along rocky ledges, or by the banks of the river that winds through the meadow.</p><P>Several theories as to the formation of the Yosemite have been advanced, and each has its partisans.  It is not the province of this volume to enter into any such geological controversy, and we can only state that some urge that the Yosemite is but a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:fissure formed by an earthquake; others claim that a part of the mountain chain has subsided; while still others assert that glacial-action only accounts for the formation of this curious valley.  Each theory is, perhaps, correct in some features, but it is evident that ice has performed an important part.</p><P>Climbing along the walls is an arduous but instructive method of studying the chief points of interest.  The ambitious tourist should remember, however, that when at the base of the cliffs he is about 4,000 feet above sea level, and that in reaching many of the coveted stations he doubles this height.  Although these pedestrian excursions are enjoyable, they are not necessary.  All the leading points of view are reached by trails that are well built and kept in good condition.</p><P>The length of the visit depends entirely with the tourist himself.  A general idea of the Valley may be gained in three days; still, he should not so limit himself, for the excursions are attended with a certain amount of fatigue which materially interferes with the pleasures of the trip.  The student of Nature will find abundant material to occupy him for weeks or months.  The more prolonged the stay, the greater becomes the appreciation of enjoyment.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"While nature's pulse shall beat the dirge of time,<LB>Thy domes shall stand--thy glorious waters chime.<LB>Farewell, Yosemite; thy falls and sunlit towers<LB>Will rise like visions on my future hours."</HI>
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185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX<LB>Various Routes to the Yosemite Valley, Distances,<LB>Time Schedules, and Points of Interest</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P>[NOTE.--For the assistance of those about to visit Yosemite, we append a list of the principal routes.  In these estimates no time is allowed for stopping over, except at regular terminal stations.  It is very difficult to arrive at the exact distances, as many are only approximated, and also on account of the fact that the stages often follow different roads, thus varying the distance.  We number the roads simply as a matter of convenience, and not with regard to their respective merits, beginning with the most northerly one.]</p><DIV><HEAD>FIRST ROUTE.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Via Calaveras Mammoth Trees</HI>
185.sgm:.--Leave San Francisco at 4 P.M., by Central Pacific Railroad, and arrive at Stockton at 8:30 P.M.; distance, 91 miles.  Stop over night at Stockton.  Leave Stockton at 8 A.M., and arrive at Calaveras Mammoth Trees at 3 P.M.; distance, 74 miles (28 miles by Copperopolis Railroad, remainder by stage).  Stop over night at Mammoth Trees.  Leave Calaveras Mammoth Trees at 3 P.M., and arrive at Murphy's at 6 P.M.; distance, 16 miles.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:Stop over night at Murphy's.  Leave Murphy's at 6 A.M., and arrive at Priest's at 7 P.M.; distance, 37 miles.  Stop over night at Priest's.  Leave Priest's at 6 A.M., and arrive in Yosemite Valley at 4 P.M.; distance, 50 miles.  Total distance, 268 miles.  Actual traveling time, 37 1/2 hours.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Attractions of this Route</HI>
185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SECOND ROUTE.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Via Big Oak Flat</HI>
185.sgm:.--Leave San Francisco at 4 P.M., by Central Pacific Railroad, and arrive at Stockton at 8:30 P.M.; distance, 91 miles.  Stop over night at Stockton.  Leave Stockton at 8 A.M., and arrive at Priest's at 7 P.M.; distance, 67 miles (28 miles by Copperopolis Railroad, remainder by stage).  Stop over night at Priest's.  Leave Priest's at 6 A.M., and arrive in Yosemite Valley at 4 P.M.; distance, 50 miles.  Total distance, 208 miles.  Actual traveling time, 25 1/2 hours.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Attractions of this Route</HI>
185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THIRD ROUTE.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Via Coulterville</HI>
185.sgm:.--Leave San Francisco at 4 P.M., by Central Pacific Railroad, and arrive at Lathrop at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
185.sgm:8:15 P.M.; distance, 82 miles.  Change cars to the Visalia Division, and arrive at Merced at 10:35 P.M.; distance, 57 miles.  Stop over night at Merced.  Leave Merced by stage at 6 A.M., and arrive at Dudley's at 5 P.M.; distance, 50 miles.  Stop over night at Dudley's.  Leave Dudley's at 6 A.M., and arrive in Yosemite Valley at 5 P.M.; distance, 37 miles.  Total distance, 226 miles.  Actual traveling time, 28 3/4 hours.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Attractions of this Route</HI>
185.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FOURTH ROUTE.</HEAD>
185.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Via Mariposa</HI>
185.sgm:.--Leave San Francisco at 4 P.M., by Central Pacific Railroad, and arrive at Merced at 10:35 P.M. (railroad ride same as in previous route); distance, 139 miles.  Stop over night at Merced.  Leave Merced by stage at 6 A.M., and arrive at Clark's at 8 P.M.; distance, 63 miles.  Stop over night at Clark's.  Leave Clark's at 7 A.M., and arrive in the Yosemite Valley at 12 M.; distance, 25 miles.  Total distance, 227 miles.  Actual traveling time, 25 3/4 hours.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Attractions of this Route</HI>
185.sgm:.--Scenery of the Foot-Hills, the Mariposa Mammoth Trees (which are six miles from Clark's, and are reached by horse from that place), the Timber Region of the Sierras, and an abundance of sublime mountain views.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
185.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-187</TITLE>
187.sgm:<TITLE>The expedition of the Donner party and its tragic fate, by Eliza P. Donner Houghton: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
187.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
187.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
187.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
187.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
187.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
187.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>11-35962</LCCN>
187.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
187.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 303233</COPYRIGHT>
187.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>THE EXPEDITION</P>
187.sgm:<P>OF THE DONNER PARTY</P>
187.sgm:<P>AND ITS TRAGIC FATE</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>THE EXPEDITION</P>
187.sgm:<P>OF THE DONNER PARTY</P>
187.sgm:<P>AND ITS TRAGIC FATE</P>
187.sgm:<P>BY</P>
187.sgm:<P>ELIZA P. DONNER HOUGHTON</P>
187.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATED</P>
187.sgm:<P><illus entity="a187-0002" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
187.sgm:<P>A. C. McCLURG &amp; CO.</P>
187.sgm:<P>1911</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Copyright</P>
187.sgm:<P>A. C. McCLURG &amp; CO.</P>
187.sgm:<P>1911</P>
187.sgm:<P>Published November, 1911</P>
187.sgm:<P>M. F. Hall Printing Company</P>
187.sgm:<P>Chicago</P>
187.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">To</HI>
187.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">My Husband and my Children</HI>
187.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">and to</HI>
187.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">My Sister Georgia</HI>
187.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">This Book is Lovingly Dedicated</HI>
187.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>OUT of the sunshine and shadows of sixty-eight years come these personal recollections of California--of the period when American civilization first crossed its mountain heights and entered its overland gateways.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I seem to hear the tread of many feet, the lowing of many herds, and know they are the re-echoing sounds of the sturdy pioneer homeseekers.  Travel-stained and weary, yet triumphant and happy, most of them reach their various destinations, and their trying experiences and valorous deeds are quietly interwoven with the general history of the State.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Not so, however, the "Donner Party," of which my father was captain.  Like fated trains of other epochs whose privations, sufferings, and self-sacrifices have added renown to colonization movements and served as danger signals to later wayfarers, that party began its journey with song of hope, and within the first milestone of the promised land ended it with a prayer for help.  "Help for the helpless in the storms of the Sierra Nevada Mountains!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>And I, a child then, scarcely four years of age, was too young to do more than watch and suffer with other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Scenes of loving care and tenderness were emblazoned on my mind.  Scenes of anguish, pain, and dire distress were branded on my brain during days, weeks, and months of famine, --famine which reduced the party from eighty-one souls to forty-five survivors, before the heroic relief men from the settlements could accomplish their mission of humanity.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Who better than survivors knew the heart-rending circumstances of life and death in those mountain camps?  Yet who can wonder that tenderest recollections and keenest heartaches silenced their quivering lips for many years; and left opportunities for false and sensational details to be spread by morbid collectors of food for excitable brains, and for prolific historians who too readily accepted exaggerated and unauthentic versions as true statements?</P>
187.sgm:<P>Who can wonder at my indignation and grief in little girlhood, when I was told of acts of brutality, inhumanity, and cannibalism, attributed to those starved parents, who in life had shared their last morsels of food with helpless companions?</P>
187.sgm:<P>Who can wonder that I then resolved that, "When I grow to be a woman I shall tell the story of my party so clearly that no one can doubt its truth"?  Who can doubt that my resolve has been ever kept fresh in mind, by eager research for verification and by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>And now, when blessed with the sunshine of peace and happiness, I am finishing my work of filial love and duty to my party and the State of my adoption, who can wonder that I find on my chain of remembrance countless names marked, "forget me not"?  Among the many to whom I became greatly indebted in my young womanhood for valuable data and gracious encouragement in my researches are General William Tecumseh Sherman, General John A. Sutter, Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant, Mrs. Jessie Benton Fre&acute;mont, Honorable Allen Francis, and C. F. McGlashan, author of the "History of the Donner Party."</P>
187.sgm:<P>My fondest affection must ever cling to the dear, quaint old pioneer men and women, whose hand-clasps were warmth and cheer, and whose givings were like milk and honey to my desolate childhood.  For each and all of them I have full measure of gratitude, often pressed down, and now overflowing to their sons and daughters, for, with keenest appreciation I learned that, on June 10, 1910, the order of Native Sons of the Golden West laid the corner stone of "Donner Monument," on the old emigrant trail near the beautiful lake which bears the party's name.  There the Native Sons of the Golden West, aided by the Native Daughters of the Golden West, propose to erect a memorial to all overland California pioneers.</P>
187.sgm:<P>In a letter to me from Dr. C. W. Chapman, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"The Donner Party has been selected by us as the most typical and as the most varied and comprehensive in its experiences of all the trains that made these wonderful journeys of thousands of miles, so unique in their daring, so brave, so worthy of the admiration of man."</P>
187.sgm:<P>ELIZA P. DONNER HOUGHTON.</P>
187.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA,</P>
187.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">September, 1911</HI>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I<LB><HSEP>PAGE<LB>THE PACIFIC COAST IN 1845--SPEECHES OF SENATOR BENTON AND REPORT OF CAPT. FRE&acute;MONT--MY FATHER AND HIS FAMILY--INTEREST AWAKENED IN THE NEW TERRITORY--FORMATION OF THE FIRST EMIGRANT PARTY FROM ILLINOIS TO CALIFORNIA--PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY--THE START--ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF CIVILIZATION<HSEP>1</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER II<LB>IN THE TERRITORY OF KANSAS--PRAIRIE SCHOONERS FROM SANTA FE&acute; TO INDEPENDENCE, MO.--LIFE <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm: --THE BIG BLUE--CAMP GOVERNMENT--THE <HI REND="italics">Blue Rover</HI>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER III<LB>IN THE HAUNTS OF THE PAWNEES--LETTERS OF MRS. GEORGE DONNER--HALT AT FORT BERNARD--SIOUX INDIANS AT FORT LARAMIE<HSEP>21</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER IV<LB>FOURTH OF JULY IN AN EMIGRANT PARTY--OPEN LETTER OF LANSFORD HASTINGS--GEORGE DONNER ELECTED CAPTAIN OF PARTY BOUND FOR CALIFORNIA--ENTERING THE GREAT DESERT--INSUFFICIENT SUPPLY OF FOOD--VOLUNTEERS COMMISSIONED BY MY FATHER TO HASTEN TO SUTTER'S FORT FOR RELIEF<HSEP>30</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER V<LB>BEWILDERING GUIDE BOARD--SOUL-TRYING STRUGGLES--FIRST SNOW--REED-SNYDER TRAGEDY--HARDCOOP'S FATE<HSEP>39</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VI<LB>INDIAN DEPREDATIONS--WOLFINGER'S DISAPPEARANCE--STANTON RETURNS WITH SUPPLIES FURNISHED BY CAPT. SUTTER--DONNER WAGONS SEPARATED FROM TRAIN FOREVER--TERRIBLE PIECE OF NEWS--FORCED INTO SHELTER AT DONNER LAKE--DONNER CAMP ON PROSSER CREEK<HSEP>54</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VII<LB>SNOWBOUND--SCARCITY OF FOOD AT BOTH CAMPS--WATCHING FOR RETURN OF MCCUTCHEN AND REED<HSEP>64</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VIII<LB>ANOTHER STORM--FOUR DEATHS IN DONNER CAMP--FIELD MICE USED FOR FOOD--CHANGED APPEARANCE OF THE STARVING--SUNSHINE--DEPARTURE OF THE "FORLORN HOPE"--WATCHING FOR RELIEF--IMPOSSIBLE TO DISTURB THE BODIES OF THE DEAD IN DONNER CAMP--ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF FIRST RELIEF PARTY<HSEP>68</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER IX<LB>SUFFERINGS OF THE "FORLORN HOPE"--RESORT TO HUMAN FLESH--"CAMP OF DEATH"--BOOTS CRISPED AND EATEN--DEER KILLED--INDIAN <HI REND="italics">Rancheria</HI>
187.sgm: --THE "WHITE MAN'S HOME" AT LAST<HSEP>77</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER X<LB>RELIEF MEASURES INAUGURATED IN CALIFORNIA--DISTURBED CONDITIONS BECAUSE OF MEXICAN WAR--GENEROUS SUBSCRIPTIONS--THREE PARTIES <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:ORGANIZE--"FIRST RELIEF," UNDER RACINE TUCKER; "SECOND RELIEF," UNDER REED AND GREENWOOD; AND RELAY CAMP UNDER WOODWORTH--FIRST RELIEF PARTY CROSSES SNOW-BELT AND REACHES DONNER LAKE<HSEP>91</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XI<LB>WATCHING FOR THE SECOND RELIEF PARTY--"OLD NAVAJO"--LAST FOOD IN CAMP<HSEP>100</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XII<LB>ARRIVAL OF SECOND RELIEF, OR REED-GREENWOOD PARTY--FEW SURVIVORS STRONG ENOUGH TO TRAVEL--WIFE'S CHOICE--PARTINGS AT DONNER CAMP--MY TWO SISTERS AND I DESERTED--DEPARTURE OF SECOND RELIEF PARTY<HSEP>104</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIII<LB>A FATEFUL CABIN--MRS. MURPHY GIVES MOTHERLY COMFORT--THE GREAT STORM--HALF A BISCUIT--ARRIVAL OF THIRD RELIEF--"WHERE IS MY BOY?"<HSEP>109</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIV<LB>THE QUEST OF TWO FATHERS--SECOND RELIEF IN DISTRESS--THIRD RELIEF ORGANIZED AT WOODWORTH'S RELAY CAMP--DIVIDES AND ONE HALF GOES TO SUCCOR SECOND RELIEF AND ITS REFUGEES; AND THE OTHER HALF PROCEEDS TO DONNER LAKE--A LAST FAREWELL--A WOMAN'S SACRIFICE<HSEP>115</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XV<LB>SIMON MURPHY, FRANCES, GEORGIA, AND I TAKEN FROM THE LAKE CABINS BY THE THIRD RELIEF--NO FOOD TO LEAVE--CROSSING THE SNOW--REMNANT OF THE SECOND RELIEF OVERTAKEN--OUT OF THE SNOW--INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY--JOHNSON'S RANCH--THE SINCLAIR HOME--SUTTER'S FORT<HSEP>123</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XVI<LB>ELITHA AND LEANNA--LIFE AT THE FORT--WATCHING THE COW PATH--RETURN OF THE FALLON PARTY--KESEBERG BROUGHT IN BY THEM--FATHER AND MOTHER DID NOT COME<HSEP>132</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XVII<LB>ORPHANS--KESEBERG AND HIS ACCUSERS--SENSATIONAL ACCOUNTS OF THE TRAGEDY AT DONNER LAKE--PROPERTY SOLD AND GUARDIAN APPOINTED--KINDLY INDIANS--"GRANDPA"--MARRIAGE OF ELITHA<HSEP>138</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XVIII<LB>"GRANDMA"--HAPPY VISITS--A NEW HOME--AM PERSUADED TO LEAVE IT<HSEP>147</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIX<LB>ON A CATTLE RANCH NEAR THE COSUMNE RIVER--"NAME BILLY"--INDIAN GRUB FEAST<HSEP>156</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XX<LB>I RETURN TO GRANDMA--WAR RUMORS AT THE FORT--LINGERING HOPE THAT MY MOTHER MIGHT BE LIVING--AN INDIAN CONVOY--THE BRUNNERS AND THEIR HOME<HSEP>165</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXI<LB>MORAL DISCIPLINE--THE HISTORICAL PUEBLO OF SONOMA--SUGAR PLUMS<HSEP>181</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXII<LB>GOLD DISCOVERED--"CALIFORNIA IS OURS"--NURSING THE SICK--THE U.S. MILITARY POST--BURIAL OF AN OFFICER<HSEP>192</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXIII<LB>REAPING AND THRESHING--A PIONEER FUNERAL--THE HOMELESS AND WAYFARING APPEAL TO MRS. BRUNNER--RETURN OF THE MINERS--SOCIAL GATHERINGS--OUR DAILY ROUTINE--STOLEN PLEASURES--A LITTLE DAIRYMAID--MY DOGSKIN SHOES<HSEP>200</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXIV<LB>MEXICAN METHODS OF CULTIVATION--FIRST STEAMSHIP THROUGH THE GOLDEN GATE--"THE ARGONAUTS" OR "BOYS OF '49"--A LETTER FROM THE STATES--JOHN BAPTISTE--JAKIE LEAVES US--THE FIRST AMERICAN SCHOOL IN SONOMA<HSEP>214</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXV<LB>FEVER PATIENTS FROM THE MINES--UNMARKED GRAVES--THE TALES AND TAUNTS THAT WOUNDED MY YOUNG HEART<HSEP>226</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXVI<LB>THANK OFFERINGS--MISS DOTY'S SCHOOL--THE BOND OF KINDRED--IN JACKET AND TROUSERS--CHUM CHARLIE<HSEP>232</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXVII<LB>CAPT. FRISBIE--WEDDING FESTIVITIES--THE MASTERPIECE OF GRANDMA'S YOUTH--SENORA VALLEJO--JAKIE'S RETURN--HIS DEATH--A CHEROKEE INDIAN WHO HAD STOOD BY MY FATHER'S GRAVE<HSEP>242</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXVIII<LB>ELITHA, FRANCES, AND MR. MILLER VISIT US--MRS. BRUNNER CLAIMS US AS HER CHILDREN--THE DAGUERREOTYPE<HSEP>251</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXIX<LB>GREAT SMALLPOX EPIDEMIC--ST. MARY'S HALL--THANKSGIVING DAY IN CALIFORNIA--ANOTHER BROTHER-IN-LAW<HSEP>255</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXX<LB>IDEALS AND LONGINGS--THE FUTURE--CHRISTMAS<HSEP>264</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXI<LB>THE WIDOW STEIN AND LITTLE JOHNNIE--"DAUGHTERS OF A SAINTED MOTHER"--ESTRANGEMENT AND DESOLATION--A RESOLUTION AND A VOW--MY PEOPLE ARRIVE AND PLAN TO BEAR ME AWAY<HSEP>269</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXII<LB>GRANDMA'S RETURN--GOOD-BYE TO THE DUMB CREATURES--GEORGIA AND I ARE OFF FOR SACRAMENTO<HSEP>282</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXIII<LB>THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF SACRAMENTO--A GLIMPSE OF GRANDPA--THE RANCHO DE LOS CAZADORES--MY SWEETEST PRIVILEGE--LETTERS FROM THE BRUNNERS<HSEP> 289</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXIV<LB>TRAGEDY IN SONOMA--CHRISTIAN BRUNNER IN A PRISON CELL--ST. CATHERINE'S CONVENT AT BENICIA--ROMANCE OF SPANISH CALIFORNIA--THE BEAUTIFUL ANGEL IN BLACK--THE PRAYER OF DONA CONCEPCION ARGUELLO REALIZED--MONASTIC RITES<HSEP>296</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXV<LB>THE CHAMBERLAIN FAMILY, COUSINS OF DANIEL WEBSTER--JEFFERSON GRAMMAR SCHOOL--FURTHER CONFLICTING ACCOUNTS OF THE DONNER PARTY--PATERNAL ANCESTRY--S. O. HOUGHTON--DEATH TAKES ONE OF THE SEVEN SURVIVING DONNERS<HSEP>30</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvii</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXVI<LB>NEWS OF THE BRUNNERS--LETTERS FROM GRANDPA<HSEP>316</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXVII<LB>ARRIVAL OF THE FIRST PONY EXPRESS<HSEP>321</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXVIII<LB>WAR AND RUMORS OF WAR--MARRIAGE--SONOMA REVISITED<HSEP>324</P>
187.sgm:<P>APPENDIX<LB>I<LB>ARTICLES PUBLISHED IN <HI REND="italics">The California Star</HI>
187.sgm: --STATISTICS OF THE PARTY--NOTES OF AGUILLA GLOVER--EXTRACT FROM THORNTON-- RECOLLECTIONS OF JOHN BAPTISTE TRUBODE<HSEP>335<LB>II<LB>THE REED-GREENWOOD PARTY, OR SECOND RELIEF--REMINISCENCES OF WILLIAM G. MURPHY--CONCERNING NICHOLAS CLARK AND JOHN BAPTISTE<HSEP>345<LB>III<LB>THE REPORT OF THOMAS FALLON--DEDUCTIONS--STATEMENT OF EDWIN BRYANT--PECULIAR CIRCUMSTANCES<HSEP>352<LB>IV<LB>LEWIS KESEBERG<HSEP>360<LB>INDEX<HSEP>373</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xix</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV TYPE="listill"><HEAD>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>S. O. Houghton<HSEP><HI REND="italics">Frontispiece</HI>
187.sgm:<LB>Eliza P. Donner Houghton<HSEP>vii<LB>The Camp Attacked by Indians<HSEP>8<LB>Our Stealthy Foes<HSEP>9<LB>Governor L. W. Boggs<HSEP>18<LB>Corral Such as was Formed by Each Section for the Protection of its Cattle<HSEP>19<LB>Fort Laramie as it Appeared When Visited by the Donner Party<HSEP> 26<LB>Chimney Rock<HSEP>27<LB>John Baptiste Trubode<HSEP>34<LB>Frances Donner (Mrs. Wm. R. Wilder)<HSEP>35<LB>Georgia Ann Donner (Mrs. W. A. Babcock)<HSEP>35<LB>March of the Caravan<HSEP>56<LB>United States Troops Crossing the Desert<HSEP>57<LB>Pass in the Sierra Nevadas of California<HSEP>70<LB>Camp at Donner Lake, November, 1846<HSEP>71<LB>Bear Valley, from Emigrant Gap<HSEP>78<LB>The Trackless Mountains<HSEP>79<LB>Sutter's Fort<HSEP>92<LB>Sam Brannan's Store at Sutter's Fort<HSEP>93<LB>Arrival of Relief Party, February 18, 1847<HSEP>106<LB>Donner Lake<HSEP>107<LB>Arrival of the Caravan at Santa Fe<HSEP>118<LB>On the Banks of the Sacramento River<HSEP>119<LB>Elitha Donner (Mrs. Benjamin Wilder)<HSEP>134 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xx</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<LB>Leanna Donner (Mrs. John App)<HSEP>134<LB>Mary Donner<HSEP>135<LB>George Donner, Nephew of Capt. Donner<HSEP>135<LB>Papooses in Bickooses<HSEP>158<LB>Sutter's Mill, Where Marshall Discovered Gold, January 19, 1848<HSEP>159<LB>Plaza and Barracks of Sonoma<HSEP>174<LB>One of the Oldest Buildings in Sonoma<HSEP>175<LB>Old Mexican Carreta<HSEP>186<LB>Residence of Judge A. L. Rhodes, a Typical California House of the Better Class in 1849<HSEP>187<LB>Mission San Francisco Solano, Last of the Historic Missions of California<HSEP>194<LB>Ruins of the Mission at Sonoma<HSEP>195<LB>Gold Rocker, Washing Pan, and Gold Borer<HSEP>206<LB>Scene During the Rush to the Gold Mines from San Francisco, in 1848<HSEP>207<LB>Post Office, Corner of Clay and Pike Streets, San Francisco, 1849<HSEP> 218<LB>Old City Hotel, 1846, Corner of Kearney and Clay Streets, The First Hotel in San Francisco<HSEP>219<LB>Mrs. Brunner, Georgia and Eliza Donner<HSEP>256<LB>S. O. Houghton, Member of Col. J. D. Stevenson's First Regiment of N.Y. Volunteers<HSEP>257<LB>Eliza P. Donner<HSEP>257<LB>Sacramento City in the Early Fifties<HSEP>278<LB>Front Street, Sacramento City, 1850<HSEP>279<LB>Pines  of the Sierras<HSEP>290<LB>Col. J. D. Stevenson<HSEP>291<LB>General John A. Sutter<HSEP>291<LB>St. Catherine's Convent at Benicia, California<HSEP>298<LB>Chapel, St. Catherine's Convent<HSEP>299 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xxi</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<LB>The Cross at Donner Lake<HSEP>310<LB>General Vallejo's Carriage, Built in England in 1832<HSEP>326<LB>General Vallejo's Old Jail<HSEP>327<LB>Alder Creek<HSEP>340<LB>Dennison's Exchange and the Parker House, San Francisco<HSEP>341<LB>View in the Grounds of the Houghton Home in San Jose<HSEP>356<LB>The Houghton Residence in San Jose, California<HSEP>357</P>
187.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<HEAD>NOTE</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>I WISH to express my appreciation of the courtesies and assistance kindly extended me by the following, in the preparation of the illustrations for this book: Mr. Lynwood Abbott, "Burr-McIntosh Magazine," Mr. J. A. Munk, donor of the Munk Library of Arizoniana to the Southwest Museum, Mr. Hector Alliot, Curator of the Southwest Museum, the officers and attendants of the Los Angeles Public Library, Miss Meta C. Stofen, City Librarian, Sonoma, Cal., Miss Elizabeth Benton Fre&acute;mont, Mr. C. M. Hunt, Editor "Grizzly Bear," the Dominican Sisters of St. Catherine's Convent at Benicia, Cal., and Mrs. C. C. Maynard.</P>
187.sgm:<P>E.P.D.H.</P>
187.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>1</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>THE PACIFIC COAST IN 1845--SPEECHES OF SENATOR BENTON AND REPORT OF CAPT. FRE&acute;MONT--MY FATHER AND HIS FAMILY--INTEREST AWAKENED IN THE NEW TERRITORY--FORMATION OF THE FIRST EMIGRANT PARTY FROM ILLINOIS TO CALIFORNIA--PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY--THE START--ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF CIVILIZATION.</P>
187.sgm:<P>PRIOR to the year 1845, that great domain lying west of the Rocky Mountains and extending to the Pacific Ocean was practically unknown.  About that time, however, the spirit of inquiry was awakening.  The powerful voice of Senator Thomas H. Benton was heard, both in public address and in the halls of Congress, calling attention to Oregon and California.  Captain John C. Fre&acute;mont's famous topographical report and maps had been accepted by Congress, and ten thousand copies ordered to be printed and distributed to the people throughout the United States.  The commercial world was not slow to appreciate the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>After careful investigation and consideration, my father, George Donner, and his elder brother, Jacob, decided to join the westward migration, selecting California as their destination.  My mother was in accord with my father's wishes, and helped him to carry out his plan.</P>
187.sgm:<P>At this time he was sixty-two years of age, large, fine-looking, and in perfect health.  He was of German parentage, born of Revolutionary stock just after the close of the war.  The spirit of adventure, with which he was strongly imbued, had led him in his youth from North Carolina, his native State, to the land of Daniel Boone, thence to Indiana, to Illinois, to Texas, and ultimately back to Illinois, while still in manhood's prime.</P>
187.sgm:<P>By reason of his geniality and integrity, he was widely known as "Uncle George" in Sangamon County, Illinois, where he had broken the virgin soil two and a half miles from Springfield, when that place was a small village.  There he built a home, acquired wealth, and took an active part in the development of the country round about.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Twice had he been married, and twice bereft by death when he met my mother, Tamsen Eustis Dozier, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>My father had two sons and eight daughters when she became his wife; but their immediate family circle consisted only of his aged parents, and Elitha and Leanna, young daughters of his second marriage, until July 8, 1840, when blue-eyed Frances Eustis was born to them.  On the fourth of December, 1841, brown-eyed Georgia Ann was added to the number; and on the eighth of March, 1843, I came into this world.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I grew to be a healthy, self-reliant child, a staff to my sister Georgia, who, on account of a painful accident and long illness during her first year, did not learn to walk steadily until after I was strong enough to help her to rise, and lead her to a sand pile near the orchard, where we played away the bright days of two uneventful years.</P>
187.sgm:<P>With the approaching Winter of 1845 popular interest in the great territory to the west of us spread to our community.  Maps and reports were eagerly studied.  The few old letters which had been received from traders and trappers along the Pacific coast were brought forth for general perusal.  The course of the reading society which met weekly at our home was changed, in order that my mother might read to those assembled the publications which had kindled in my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">The Springfield Journal</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. James F. Reed, a well-known resident of Springfield, was among those who urged the formation of a company to go directly from Sangamon County to California.  Intense interest was manifested; and had it not been for the widespread financial depression of that year, a large number would have gone from that vicinity.  The great cost of equipment, however, kept back many who desired to make the long journey.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As it was, James F. Reed, his wife and four children, and Mrs. Keyes, the mother of Mrs. Reed; Jacob Donner, his wife, and seven children; and George Donner, his wife, and five children; also their teamsters and camp assistants, --thirty-two persons all told, --constituted the first emigrant party from Illinois to California.  The plan was to join the Oregon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The preparations made for the journey by my parents were practical.  Strong, commodious emigrant wagons were constructed especially for the purpose.  The oxen to draw them were hardy, well trained, and rapid walkers.  Three extra yoke were provided for emergencies.  Cows were selected to furnish milk on the way.  A few young beef cattle, five saddle-horses, and a good watch-dog completed the list of live stock.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After carefully calculating the requisite amount of provisions, father stored in his wagons a quantity that was deemed more than sufficient to last until we should reach California.  Seed and implements for use on the prospective farms in the new country also constituted an important part of our outfit.  Nor was that all.  There were bolts of cheap cotton prints, red and yellow flannels, bright-bordered handkerchiefs, glass beads, necklaces, chains, brass finger rings, earrings, pocket looking-glasses and divers other knickknacks dear to the hearts of aborigines.  These were intended for distribution as peace offerings among the Indians.  Lastly, there were rich stores of laces, muslins, silks, satins, velvets and like cherished fabrics, destined to be used in exchange for Mexican land-grants in that far land to which we were bound.</P>
187.sgm:<P>My mother was energetic in all these preparations, but her special province was to make and otherwise get in readiness a bountiful supply of clothing.  She <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>A liberal sum of money for meeting incidental expenses and replenishing supplies on the journey, if need be, was stored in the compartments of two wide buckskin girdles, to be worn in concealment about the person.  An additional sum of ten thousand dollars, cash, was stitched between the folds of a quilt for safe transportation.  This was a large amount for those days, and few knew that my parents were carrying it with them.  I gained my information concerning it in later years from Mr. Francis, to whom they showed it.</P>
187.sgm:<P>To each of his grown children my father deeded a fair share of his landed estate, reserving one hundred and ten acres near the homestead for us five younger children, who in course of time might choose to return to our native State.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As time went on, our preparations were frequently interrupted by social obligations, farewell visits, dinners, and other merrymakings with friends and kindred far and near.  Thursday, April 15, 1846, was the day fixed for our departure, and the members of our household were at work before the rosy dawn.  We children were dressed early in our new linsey travelling suits; and as the final packing progressed, we often <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>In the first were stored the merchandise and articles not to be handled until they should reach their destination; in the second, provisions, clothing, camp tools, and other necessaries of camp life.  The third was our family home on wheels, with feed boxes attached to the back of the wagon-bed for Fanny and Margaret, the favorite saddle-horses, which were to be kept ever close at hand for emergencies.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Early in the day, the first two wagons started, each drawn by three yoke of powerful oxen, whose great moist eyes looked as though they too had parting tears to shed.  The loose cattle quickly followed, but it was well on toward noon before the family wagon was ready.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then came a pause fraught with anguish to the dear ones gathered about the homestead to say farewell.  Each tried to be courageous, but not one was so brave as father when he bade good-bye to his friends, to his children, and to his children's children.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I sat beside my mother with my hand clasped in hers, as we slowly moved away from that quaint old house on its grassy knoll, from the orchard, the corn land, and the meadow; as we passed through the last pair of bars, her clasp tightened, and I, glancing up, saw tears in her eyes and sorrow in her face.  I was grieved at her pain, and in sympathy nestled closer to her side and sat so quiet that I soon fell asleep.  When I awoke, the sun still shone, but we had encamped for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Reed and family, and my uncle Jacob and family, with their travelling equipments and cattle, were already settled there.  Under father's direction, our own encampment was soon accomplished.  By nightfall, the duties of the day were ended, and the members of our party gathered around one fire to spend a social hour.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Presently, the clatter of galloping horses was heard, and shortly thereafter eight horsemen alighted, and with merry greetings joined our circle.  They were part of the reading society, and had come to hold its last reunion beside our first camp-fire.  Mr. Francis was among them, and took an inventory of the company's outfit for the benefit of the readers of <HI REND="italics">The Springfield Journal</HI>
187.sgm:<P>They piled more wood on the blazing fire, making it a beacon light to those who were watching from afar; they sang songs, told tales, and for the time being drove homesickness from our hearts.  Then they rode away in the moonlight, and our past was a sweet memory, our future a beautiful dream.</P>
187.sgm:<P>William Donner, my half-brother, came to camp early next morning to help us to get the cattle started, and to accompany us as far as the outskirts of civilization.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We reached Independence, Missouri, on the eleventh of May, with our wagons and cattle in prime condition, and our people in the best of spirits.  Our party <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CAMP ATTACKED BY INDIANS</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OUR STEALTHY FOES</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Good fellowship prevailed as strangers met, each anxious to learn something of those who might by chance become his neighbors in line.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Among the pleasant acquaintances made that day, was Mr. J. Q. Thornton, a young attorney from Quincy, Illinois, who, with his invalid wife, was emigrating to Oregon.  He informed us that himself and wife and ex-Governor Boggs and family, of Missouri, were hourly expecting Alphonso Boone, grandson of Daniel Boone; and that as soon as Boone and his family should arrive from Kentucky, they would all hasten on to join Colonel Russell's California company, which was already on the way, but had promised to await them somewhere on the Kansas River.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It was then believed that at least seven thousand emigrant wagons would go West, through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>As we drove up Main Street, delayed emigrants waved us a light-hearted good-bye, and as we approached the building of the American Tract Society, its agent came to our wagons and put into the hand of each child a New Testament, and gave to each adult a Bible, and also tracts to distribute among the heathen in the benighted land to which we were going.  Near the outskirts of town we parted from William Donner, took a last look at Independence, turned our backs to the morning sun, and became pioneers indeed to the Far West.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>IN THE TERRITORY OF KANSAS--PRAIRIE SCHOONERS FROM SANTA FE&acute; TO INDEPENDENCE, MO.--LIFE <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm: --THE BIG BLUE--CAMP GOVERNMENT--THE <HI REND="italics">Blue Rover</HI>
187.sgm:<P>DURING our first few days in the Territory of Kansas we passed over good roads, and through fields of May blossoms musical with the hum of bees and the songs of birds.  Some of the party rode horseback; others walked in advance of the train; but each father drove his own family team.  We little folk sat in the wagons with our dolls, watching the huge white-covered "prairie schooners" coming from Santa Fe&acute; to Independence for merchandise.  We could hear them from afar, for the great wagons were drawn by four or five span of travel-worn horses or mules, and above the hames of each poor beast was an arch hung with from three to five clear-toned bells, that jingled merrily as their carriers moved along, guided by a happy-go-lucky driver, usually singing or whistling a gleeful tune.  Both man and beast looked longingly toward the town, which promised companionship and revelry to the one, and rest and fodder to the other.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We overtook similar wagons, heavily laden with goods bound for Santa Fe&acute;.  Most of the drivers were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Early on the nineteenth of May we reached Colonel Russell's camp on Soldiers' Creek, a tributary of the Kansas River.  The following account of the meeting held by the company after our arrival is from the journal of Mr. Edwin Bryant, author of "What I Saw in California":</P>
187.sgm:<P>May 19, 1846.  A new census of our party was taken this morning; and it was found to consist of 98 fighting men, 50 women, 46 wagons, and 350 cattle.  Two divisions were made for convenience in travelling.  We were joined to-day by nine wagons from Illinois belonging to Mr. Reed and Messrs. Donner, highly respectable and intelligent gentlemen with interesting families.  They were received into the company by a unanimous vote.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our cattle were allowed to rest that day; and while the men were hunting and fishing, the women spread the family washings on the boughs and bushes of that well-wooded stream.  We children, who had been confined to the wagon so many hours each day, stretched our limbs, and scampered off on Mayday frolics.  We waded the creek, made mud pies, and gathered posies in the narrow glades between the cottonwood, beech, and alder trees.  Colonel Russell was courteous to all; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The government of these emigrant trains was essentially democratic and characteristically American.  A captain was chosen, and all plans of action and rules and regulations were proposed at a general assembly, and accepted or rejected by majority vote.  Consequently, Colonel Russell's function was to preside over meetings, lead the train, locate camping ground, select crossings over fordable streams, and direct the construction of rafts and other expedients for transportation over deep waters.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A trumpet call aroused the camp at dawn the following morning; by seven o'clock breakfast had been cooked and served, and the company was in marching order.  The weather was fine, and we followed the trail of the Kansas Indians, toward the Big Blue.</P>
187.sgm:<P>At nooning our teams stood in line on the road chewing the cud and taking their breathing spell, while families lunched on the grass in restful picnic style.  Suddenly a gust of wind swept by; the sky turned a greenish gray; black clouds drifted over the face of the sun; ominous sounds came rumbling from distant hills, and before our effects could be collected and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>We were three hours' distance from our evening camp-ground and our drivers had to walk and face that buffeting storm in order to keep control of the nervous cattle.  It was still raining when we reached the knoll where we could spend the night.  Our men were tired and drenched, some of them cross; fires were out of the question until fuel could be cut and brought from the edge of a swamp a mile from camp.  When brought, the green wood smoked so badly that suppers were late and rather cheerless; still there was spirit enough left in those stalwart hearts to start some mirth-provoking ditty, or indulge in good-natured raillery over the joys and comforts of pioneering.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Indians had followed our train all day, and as we had been warned against leaving temptation within reach, the cattle were corralled early and their guards doubled.  Happily, the night passed without alarm or losses.  The following day we were joined by ex-Governor Boggs and companions, and lost Mr. Jordan and friends of Jackson, Missouri, who drew their thirteen wagons out of line, saying that their force was strong enough to travel alone, and that Captain Russell's company had become too large for rapid or convenient handling.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We covered fourteen miles that day over a beautiful rolling prairie, dotted with Indian lodges.  Frequently their owners walked or rode beside our wagons, asking for presents.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Mrs. Kehi-go-wa-chuck-ee was made happy by the gift of a dozen strings of glass beads, and the chief also kindly accepted a few trinkets and a contribution of tobacco, and provisions, after which he made the company understand that for a consideration payable in cotton prints, tobacco, salt pork, and flour, he himself and his trusted braves would become escort to the train in order to protect its cattle from harm, and its wagons from the pilfering hands of his tribesmen.  His offer was accepted, with the condition that he should not receive any of the promised goods until the last wagon was safe beyond his territory.  This bargain was faithfully kept, and when we parted from the Indians, they proceeded to immediate and hilarious enjoyment of the unwonted luxuries thus earned.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We were now in line with spring storms, which made us victims of frequent downpours and cyclonic winds.  The roads were heavy, and the banks of streams so steep that often the wagons had to be lowered by aid of rope and chain.  Fortunately our people were able to take these trying situations philosophically, and were ever ready to enjoy the novelties of intervening hours of calm and sunshine.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The staid and elderly matrons spent most of their time in their wagons, knitting or patching designs for quilts.  The younger ones and the girls passed theirs in the saddle.  They would scatter in groups over the plains to investigate distant objects, then race back, and with song and banter join husband and brother, driving the loose cattle in the rear.  The wild, free <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Edwin Bryant, Mr. and Mrs. Thornton, and my mother were enthusiastic searchers for botanical and geological specimens.  They delved into the ground, turning over stones and scraping out the crevices, and zealously penetrated the woods to gather mosses, roots, and flowering plants.  Of the rare floral specimens and perishable tints, my mother made pencil and water-color studies, having in view the book she was preparing for publication.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On ascending the bluff overlooking the Big Blue, early on the afternoon of the twenty-sixth of May, we found the river booming, and the water still rising.  Driftwood and good sized logs were floating by on a current so strong that all hope of fording it vanished even before its depth was measured.  We encamped on the slope of the prairie, near a timber of cottonwood, oak, beech, and sycamore trees, where a clear brook rushed over its stony bed to join the Big Blue.  Captain Russell, with my father and other sub-leaders, examined the river banks for marks of a ford.</P>
187.sgm:<P>By sunset the river had risen twenty inches and the water at the ford was two hundred yards in width.  A general meeting was called to discuss the situation.  Many insisted that the company, being comfortably settled, should wait until the waters receded; but the majority agreeing with the Captain, voted to construct <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The assembly was also called upon to settle a difference between two members of our Oregon contingent, friendly intervention having induced the disputants to suspend hostilities until their rights should be thus determined.  The assembly, however, instead of passing upon the matter, appointed a committee to devise a way out of the difficulty.  J. Q. Thornton's work, "Oregon and California," has this reference to that committee, whose work was significant as developed by later events:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Ex-Governor Boggs, Mr. James F. Reed, Mr. George Donner, and others, myself included, convened in a tent according to appointment of a general assembly of the emigrants, with the design of preparing a system of laws for the purpose of preserving order, etc.  We proposed a few laws without, however, believing that they would possess much authority.  Provision was made for the appointment of a court of arbitrators to hear and decide disputes, and to try offenders against the peace and good order of the company.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The fiercest thunderstorm that we had yet experienced raged throughout that night, and had we not been protected by the bluff on one side, and the timber on the other, our tents would have been carried away by the gale.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The Big Blue had become so turbulent that work on the prospective craft was postponed, and our people proceeded to make the most of the unexpected holiday.  Messrs. Grayson and Branham found a bee tree, and brought several buckets of delicious honey into camp.  Mr. Bryant gathered a quantity of wild <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The evening was devoted to friendly intercourse, and the camp was merry with song and melodies dear to loved ones around the old hearthstones.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, Captain Russell had drawn a plan of the craft that should be built, and had marked the cotton-wood trees on the river bank, half a mile above camp, that would furnish the necessary materials.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Bright and early the following morning, volunteer boat-builders went to work with a will, and by the close of day had felled two trees about three and a half feet in diameter, had hollowed out the trunks, and made of them a pair of canoes twenty-five feet in length.  In addition to this, they had also prepared timbers for the frames to hold them parallel, and insure the wagon wheels a steady place while being ferried across the river.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The workers were well satisfied with their accomplishment.  There was, however, sorrow instead of rejoicing in camp, for Mrs. Reed's aged mother, who had been failing for some days, died that night.  At two o'clock the next afternoon, she was buried at the foot of a monarch oak, in a neat cottonwood coffin, made by men of the party, and her grave was marked by a headstone.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The craft being finished on the morning of the thirtieth of May, was christened <HI REND="italics">Blue Rover</HI>
187.sgm:, and launched amid cheers of the company.  Though not a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0006" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GOVERNOR L. W. BOGGS</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0007" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CORRAL SUCH AS WAS FORMED BY EACH SECTION FOR THE PROTECTION OF ITS CATTLE</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The only unforeseen delay that had occurred was occasioned by an awkward slip of the third wagon while being landed.  The <HI REND="italics">Blue Rover</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Much anxiety was experienced when the cattle were forced into the water, and they had a desperate struggle in crossing the current; but they finally reached the opposite bank without accident.  Each family embarked in its own wagon, and the last was ferried over in the rain at nine o'clock that night.  The ropes were then detached from the <HI REND="italics">Blue Rover</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Captain Russell had despatched matters vigorously and tactfully, and when the labors of that day were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>IN THE HAUNTS OF THE PAWNEES--LETTERS OF MRS. GEORGE DONNER--HALT AT FORT BERNARD--SIOUX INDIANS AT FORT LARAMIE.</P>
187.sgm:<P>WE were now near the haunts of the Pawnee Indians, reported to be "vicious savages and daring thieves."  Before us also stretched the summer range of the antelope, deer, elk, and buffalo.  The effort to keep out of the way of the Pawnees, and the desire to catch sight of the big game, urged us on at a good rate of speed, but not fast enough to keep our belligerents on good behavior.  Before night they had not only renewed their former troubles, but come to blows, and insulted our Captain, who had tried to separate them.  How the company was relieved of them is thus told in Mr. Bryant's Journal:</P>
187.sgm:<P>June 2, 1846, the two individuals at variance about their oxen and wagon were emigrants to Oregon, and some eighteen or twenty wagons now travelling with us were bound to the same place.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It was proposed in order to relieve ourselves from consequences of dispute in which we had no interest, that all Oregon emigrants should, in respectful manner and friendly spirit, be requested to separate themselves from the California, and start on in advance of us.  The proposition was unanimously carried; and the spirit in which it was made prevented any bad feeling which otherwise might have resulted from it.  The Oregon emigrants immediately drew their wagons from the corrals and proceeded on their way.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The Oregon company was never so far in advance that we could not hear from it, and on various occasions, some of its members sent to us for medicines and other necessaries.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our fear of the Pawnees diminished as we proceeded, and met in their haunts only friendly Indians returning from the hunt, with ponies heavily laden with packs of jerked meats and dried buffalo tongues.  At least one brave in each party could make himself understood by word or sign.  Many could pronounce the one word "hogmeat," and would show what they had to exchange for the coveted luxury.  Others also begged for "tobac," and sugar, and generally got a little.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A surprising number of trappers and traders, returning to the United States with their stocks of peltry, camped near us from time to time.  They were glad to exchange information, and kept us posted in regard to the condition of the migrants, and the number of wagons on the road in advance.  These rough-looking fellows courteously offered to carry the company's mail to the nearest post-office.  Mr. Bryant and my mother availed themselves of the kindness, and sent letters to the respective journals of which they were correspondents.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Another means of keeping in touch with travelling parties in advance was the accounts that were frequently found written on the bleaching skulls of animals, or on trunks of trees from which the bark had been stripped, or yet again, on pieces of paper stuck <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Early June afforded rarest sport to lovers of the chase, and our company was kept bountifully supplied with choicest cuts of antelope, deer, and elk meat, also juicy buffalo steak.  By the middle of the month, however, our surroundings were less favorable.  We entered a region of oppressive heat.  Clouds of dust enveloped the train.  Wood became scarce, and water had to be stored in casks and carried between supply points.  We passed many dead oxen, also a number of poor cripples that had been abandoned by their unfeeling owners.  Our people, heeding these warnings, gave our cattle extra care, and lost but few.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Through the kindness of the Hon. Allen Francis, U.S. Consul at Victoria, British Columbia, for a long term of years, and in his earlier career editor of <HI REND="italics">The Springfield Journal</HI>
187.sgm:, I have in my possession two letters written by my mother for this paper.  They give a glimpse of the party <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<P>The following was published on the twenty-third of July:</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>NEAR THE JUNCTION OF THE NORTH</P>
187.sgm:<P>AND SOUTH PLATTE, <HI REND="italics">June 16, 1846</HI>
187.sgm:<P>MY OLD FRIEND:</P>
187.sgm:<P>We are now on the Platte, two hundred miles from Fort Laramie.  Our journey so far has been pleasant, the roads have been good, and food plentiful.  The water for part of the way has been indifferent, but at no time have our cattle suffered for it.  Wood is now very scarce, but "buffalo chips" are excellent; they kindle quickly and retain heat surprisingly.  We had this morning buffalo steaks broiled upon them that had the same flavor they would have had upon hickory coals.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We feel no fear of Indians, our cattle graze quietly around our encampment unmolested.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Two or three men will go hunting twenty miles from camp; and last night two of our men lay out in the wilderness rather than ride their horses after a hard chase.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Indeed, if I do not experience something far worse than I have yet done, I shall say the trouble is all in getting started.  Our wagons have not needed much repair, and I can not yet tell in what respects they could be improved.   Certain it is, they can not be too strong.  Our preparations for the journey might have been in some respects bettered.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Bread has been the principal article of food in our camp.  We laid in 150 pounds of flour and 75 pounds of meat for each individual, and I fear bread will be scarce.  Meat is abundant.  Rice and beans are good articles on the road; cornmeal, too, is acceptable.  Linsey dresses are the most suitable for children.  Indeed, if I had one, it would be acceptable.  There is so cool a breeze at all times on the plains that the sun does not feel so hot as one would suppose.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We are now four hundred and fifty miles from Independence.  Our route at first was rough, and through a timbered country, which appeared to be fertile.  After striking the prairie, we found a first-rate road, and the only difficulty we have had, has been in crossing the creeks.  In that, however, there has been no danger.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I never could have believed we could have travelled so far with so little difficulty.  The prairie between the Blue and the Platte rivers is beautiful beyond description.  Never have I seen so varied a country, so suitable for cultivation.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Since we have been on the Platte, we have had the river on one side and the ever varying mounds on the other, and have travelled through the bottom lands from one to two miles wide, with little or no timber.  The soil is sandy, and last year, on account of the dry season, the emigrants found grass here scarce.  Our cattle are in good order, and when proper care has been taken, none have been lost.  Our milch cows have been of great service, indeed.  They have been of more advantage than our meat.  We have plenty of butter and milk.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We are commanded by Captain Russell, an amiable man.  George Donner is himself yet.  He crows in the morning and shouts out, "Chain up, boys!" chain up!" with as much authority as though he was "something in particular."  John Denton is still with us.  We find him useful in the camp.  Hiram Miller and Noah James are in good health and doing well.  We have of the best people in our company, and some, too, that are not so good.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Buffaloes show themselves frequently.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We have found the wild tulip, the primrose, the lupine, the eardrop, the larkspur, and creeping hollyhock, and a beautiful flower resembling the blossom of the beech tree, but in bunches as large as a small sugar loaf, and of every variety of shade, to red and green.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I botanize and read some, but cook "heaps" more.  There are four hundred and twenty wagons, as far as we have heard, on the road between here and Oregon and California.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Give our love to all inquiring friends.  God bless them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Yours truly,</P>
187.sgm:<P>MRS. GEORGE DONNER.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The following extract is part of a letter which appeared in <HI REND="italics">The Springfield Journal</HI>
187.sgm: of July 30, 1846<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">When Mr. Francis was appointed U.S. Consul by President Lincoln, he stored his files of <HI REND="italics">The Springfield, Illinois, Journal</HI>
187.sgm:, and upon his return from Victoria, B.C., found the files almost destroyed by attic rodents, and my mother's earlier contributions in verse and prose, as well as her letters while <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>SOUTH FORK OF THE NEBRASKA,</P>
187.sgm:<P>TEN MILES FROM THE CROSSING,</P>
187.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Tuesday, June 16, 1846</HI>
187.sgm:<P>DEAR FRIEND:</P>
187.sgm:<P>To-day, at nooning, there passed, going to the States, seven men from Oregon, who went out last year.  One of them was well acquainted with Messrs.  Ide and Cadden Keyes, the latter of whom, he says, went to California.  They met the advance Oregon caravan about 150 miles west of Fort Laramie, and counted in all, for Oregon and California (excepting ours), 478 wagons.  There are in our company over 40 wagons, making 518 in all; and there are said to be yet 20 behind.  To-morrow we cross the river, and, by reckoning, will be over 200 miles from Fort Laramie, where we intend to stop and repair our wagon wheels.  They are nearly all loose, and I am afraid we will have to stop sooner, if there can be found wood suitable to heat the tires.  There is no wood here, and our women and children are out now gathering "buffalo chips" to burn, in order to do the cooking.  These chips burn well.</P>
187.sgm:<P>MRS. GEORGE DONNER.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On the eighteenth of June, Captain Russell, who had been stricken with bilious fever, resigned his office of leader.  My father and other subordinate officers also resigned their positions.  The assembly tendered the retiring officials a vote of thanks for faithful service; and by common consent, ex-Governor Boggs moved at the head of the train and gave it his name.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We had expected to push on to Fort Laramie without stopping elsewhere, but when we reached Fort Bernard, a small fur-trading post ten miles east of Fort Laramie, we learned that the Sioux Indians were gathering on Laramie Plain, preparing for war with the Crows, and their allies, the Snakes; also that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0008" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FORT LARAMIE AS IT APPEARED WHEN VISITED BY THE DONNER PARTY</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHIMNEY ROCK</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, Messrs. Russell and Bryant, with six young bachelor friends, found an opportunity to finish their journey with pack animals.  They exchanged with traders from New Mexico their wagons and teams for the requisite number of saddle-horses, mules, pack-saddles, and other equipment, which would enable them to reach California a month earlier than by wagon route.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Both parties broke camp at the same hour on the last day of June, they taking the bridle trail to the right, and we turning to the left across the ridge to Fort Laramie.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Not an emigrant tent was to be seen as we approached the fort, but bands of horses were grazing on the plain, and Indians smeared with war-paint, and armed with hunting knives, tomahawks, bows and arrows, were moving about excitedly.  They did not appear to notice us as we drove to the entrance of the strongly fortified walls, surrounding the buildings of the American Fur Company, yet by the time we were ready to depart, large crowds were standing close to our wagons to receive the presents which our people <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Bourdeau, the general manager at the fort, explained to us that the emigrants who had remained there up to the previous Saturday were on that day advised by several of the Sioux chiefs, for whom he acted as spokesman, "to resume their journey before the coming Tuesday, and to unite in strong companies, because their people were in large force in the hills, preparing to go out on the war-path in the country through which the travellers had yet to pass; that they were not pleased with the whites; that many of their warriors were cross and sulky in anticipation of the work before them; and that any white persons found outside the fort upon their arrival might be subject to robbery and other bad treatment."  This advice of the chiefs had awakened such fear in the travellers that every camp-fire was deserted before sunrise the ensuing morning.  We, in turn, were filled with apprehension, and immediately hurried onward in the ruts made by the fleeing wagons of the previous day.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Before we got out of the country of the Sioux, we were overtaken by about three hundred mounted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>FOURTH OF JULY IN AN EMIGRANT PARTY--OPEN LETTER OF LANSFORD HASTINGS--GEORGE DONNER ELECTED CAPTAIN OF PARTY BOUND FOR CALIFORNIA--ENTERING THE GREAT DESERT--INSUFFICIENT SUPPLY OF FOOD--VOLUNTEERS COMMISSIONED BY MY FATHER TO HASTEN TO SUTTER'S FORT FOR RELIEF.</P>
187.sgm:<P>ON the second of July we met Mr. Bryant returning to prevail on some man of our company to take the place of Mr. Kendall of the bridle party, who had heard such evil reports of California from returning trappers that his courage had failed, and he had deserted his companions and joined the Oregon company.  Hiram Miller, who had driven one of my father's wagons from Springfield, took advantage of this opportunity for a faster method of travel and left with Mr. Bryant.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The following evening we encamped near the reenforced bridle party, and on the morning of the Fourth Messrs. Russell and Bryant came over to help us to celebrate our national holiday.  A salute was fired at sunrise, and later a platform of boxes was arranged in a grove close by, and by half-past nine o'clock every one in camp was in holiday attire, and ready to join the procession which marched around <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>We had on many occasions entertained eastward-bound rovers whose varied experiences on the Pacific coast made them interesting talkers.  Those who favored California extolled its excellence, and had scant praise for Oregon.  Those who loved Oregon described its marvellous advantages over California, and urged home-seekers to select it as the wiser choice; consequently, as we neared the parting of the ways, some of our people were in perplexity which to choose.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On the nineteenth of July we reached the Little Sandy River and there found four distinct companies encamped in neighborly groups, among them our friends, the Thorntons and Rev. Mr. Cornwall.  Most of them were listed for Oregon, and were resting their cattle preparatory to entering upon the long, dry drive of forty miles, known as "Greenwood's Cut-off."</P>
187.sgm:<P>There my father and others deliberated over a new route to California.</P>
187.sgm:<P>They were led to do so by "An Open Letter," which had been delivered to our company on the seventeenth by special messenger on horseback.  The letter was written by Lansford W. Hastings, author of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The proposition seemed so feasible, that after cool deliberation and discussion, a party was formed to take the new route.</P>
187.sgm:<P>My father was elected captain of this company, and from that time on it was known as the "Donner Party."  It included our original Sangamon County folks (except Mrs. Keyes and Hiram Miller), and the following additional members: Patrick Breen, wife, and seven children; Lewis Keseberg, wife, and two children; Mrs. Lavina Murphy (a widow) and five children; William Eddy, wife, and two children; William Pike, wife, and two children; William Foster, wife, and child; William McCutchen, wife, and child; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>While we were preparing to break camp, the last named had begged my father for a place in our wagon.  He was a stranger to our family, afflicted with consumption, too ill to make the journey on horseback, and the family with whom he had travelled thus far could no longer accommodate him.  His forlorn condition appealed to my parents and they granted his request.</P>
187.sgm:<P>All the companies broke camp and left the Little Sandy on the twentieth of July.  The Oregon division with a section for California took the right-hand trail for Fort Hall; and the Donner Party, the left-hand trail to Fort Bridger.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After parting from us, Mr. Thornton made the following note in his journal:</P>
187.sgm:<P>July 20, 1846.  The Californias were much elated and in fine spirits, with the prospect of better and nearer road to the country of their destination.  Mrs. George Donner, however, was an exception.  She was gloomy, sad, and dispirited in view of the fact that her husband and others could think of leaving the old road, and confide in the statement of a man of whom they knew nothing, but was probably some selfish adventurer.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Five days later the Donner Party reached Fort Bridger, and were informed by Hasting's agent that he had gone forward as pilot to a large emigrant train, but had left instructions that all later arrivals should follow his trail.  Further, that they would find "an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>At Fort Bridger, my father took as driver for one of his wagons, John Baptiste Trubode, a sturdy young mountaineer, the offspring of a French father--a trapper--and a Mexican mother.  John claimed to have a knowledge of the languages and customs of various Indian tribes through whose country we should have to pass, and urged that this knowledge might prove helpful to the company.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The trail from the fort was all that could be desired, and on the third of August, we reached the crossing of Webber River, where it breaks through the mountains into the can&tilde;on.  There we found a letter from Hastings stuck in the cleft of a projecting stick near the roadside.  It advised all parties to encamp and await his return for the purpose of showing them a better way than through the can&tilde;on of Webber River, stating that he had found the road over which he was then piloting a train very bad, and feared other parties might not be able to get their wagons through the can&tilde;on leading to the valley of the Great Salt Lake.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He referred, however, to another route which he declared to be much better, as it avoided the can&tilde;on altogether.  To prevent unnecessary delays, Messrs. Reed, Pike, and Stanton volunteered to ride over the new route, and, if advisable, bring Hastings back to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0010" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>JOHN BAPTISTE TRUBODE</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FRANCES DONNER (MRS. WM. R. WILDER)<HSEP>GEORGIA ANN DONNER (MRS. W. A. BABCOCK)</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>While exploring on the way back, Mr. Reed had become separated from Messrs. Pike and Stanton and now feared they might be lost.  He himself had located landmarks and blazed trees and felt confident that, by making occasional short clearings, we could get our wagons over the new route as outlined by Hastings.  Searchers were sent ahead to look up the missing men, and we immediately broke camp and resumed travel.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The following evening we were stopped by a thicket of quaking ash, through which it required a full day's hard work to open a passageway.  Thence our course lay through a wilderness of rugged peaks and rockbound can&tilde;ons until a heavily obstructed gulch confronted us.  Believing that it would lead out to the Utah River Valley, our men again took their tools and became roadmakers.  They had toiled six days, when W. F. Graves, wife, and eight children; J. Fosdick, wife, and child, and John Snyder, with their teams and cattle, overtook and joined our train.  With the assistance of these three fresh men, the road, eight miles in length, was completed two days later.  It carried <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Fortunately, we here met the searchers returning with Messrs. Pike and Stanton.  The latter informed us that we must turn back over our newly made road and cross a farther range of peaks in order to strike the outlet to the valley.  Sudden fear of being lost in the trackless mountains almost precipitated a panic, and it was with difficulty that my father and other cool-headed persons kept excited families from scattering rashly into greater dangers.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We retraced our way, and after five days of alternate travelling and road-making, ascended a mountain so steep that six and eight yoke of oxen were required to draw each vehicle up the grade, and most careful handling of the teams was necessary to keep the wagons from toppling over as the straining cattle zigzaged to the summit.  Fortunately, the slope on the opposite side was gradual and the last wagon descended to camp before darkness obscured the way.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The following morning, we crossed the river which flows from Utah Lake to Great Salt Lake and found the trail of the Hastings party.  We had been thirty days in reaching that point, which we had hoped to make in ten or twelve.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The tedious delays and high altitude wrought distressing changes in Mr. Halloran's condition, and my father and mother watched over him with increasing solicitude.  But despite my mother's unwearying ministrations, death came on the fourth of September.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Suitable timber for a coffin could not be obtained, so his body was wrapped in sheets and carefully enclosed in a buffalo robe, then reverently laid to rest in a grave on the shore of Great Salt Lake, near that of a stranger, who had been buried by the Hastings party a few weeks earlier.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Halloran had appreciated the tender care bestowed upon him by my parents, and had told members of our company that in the event of his death on the way, his trunk and its contents, and his horse and its equipments should belong to Captain Donner.  When the trunk was opened, it was found to contain clothing, keepsakes, a Masonic emblem, and fifteen hundred dollars in coin.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A new inventory, taken about this time, disclosed the fact that the company's stock of supplies was insufficient to carry it through to California.  A call was made for volunteers who should hasten on horseback to Sutter's Fort, procure supplies and, returning, meet the train <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>In addressing this letter to Captain Sutter, my father followed the general example of emigrants to California in those days, for Sutter, great-hearted and generous, was the man to whom all turned in distress or emergencies.  He himself had emigrated to the United States at an early age, and after a few years spent in St. Louis, Missouri, had pushed his way westward to California.</P>
187.sgm:<P>There he negotiated with the Russian Government for its holdings on the Pacific coast, and took them over when Russia evacuated the country.  He then established himself on the vast estates so acquired, which, in memory of his parentage, he called New Helvetia.  The Mexican Government, however, soon assumed his liabilities to the Russian Government, and exercised sovereignty over the territory.  Sutter's position, nevertheless, was practically that of a potentate.  He constructed the well-known fort near the present site of the city of Sacramento, as protection against Indian depredations, and it became a trading centre and rendezvous for incoming emigrants.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>BEWILDERING GUIDE BOARD--SOUL-TRYING STRUGGLES--FIRST SNOW--REED-SNYDER TRAGEDY--HARDCOOP'S FATE.</P>
187.sgm:<P>OUR next memorable camp was in a fertile valley where we found twenty natural wells, some very deep and full to the brim of pure, cold water.  "They varied from six inches to several feet in diameter, the soil around the edges was dry and hard, and as fast as water was dipped out, a new supply rose to the surface."<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1">Thornton.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>Close by the largest well stood a rueful spectacle, --a bewildering guide board, flecked with bits of white paper, showing that the notice or message which had recently been pasted and tacked thereon had since been stripped off in irregular bits.</P>
187.sgm:<P>In surprise and consternation, the emigrants gazed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Spurred by her zeal, others also were soon on their knees, scratching among the grasses and sifting the loose soil through their fingers.  What they found, they brought to her, and after the search ended she took the guide board, laid it across her lap, and thoughtfully began fitting the ragged edges of paper together and matching the scraps to marks on the board.  The tedious process was watched with spellbound interest by the anxious group around her.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The writing was that of Hastings, and her patchwork brought out the following words:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"2 days--2 nights--hard driving--cross--desert--reach water."</P>
187.sgm:<P>This would be a heavy strain on our cattle, and to fit them for the ordeal they were granted thirty-six hours' indulgence near the bubbling waters, amid good pasturage.  Meanwhile, grass was cut and stored, water casks were filled, and rations were prepared for desert use.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We left camp on the morning of September 9, following dimly marked wagon-tracks courageously, and entered upon the "dry drive," which Hastings and his agent at Fort Bridger had represented as being thirty-five miles, or forty at most.  After two days and two nights of continuous travel, over a waste of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Reed now rode ahead to prospect for water, while the rest followed with the teams.  All who could walk did so, mothers carrying their babes in their arms, and fathers with weaklings across their shoulders moved slowly as they urged the famishing cattle forward.  Suddenly an outcry of joy gave hope to those whose courage waned.  A lake of shimmering water appeared before us in the near distance, we could see the wavy grasses and a caravan of people moving toward it.</P>
187.sgm:<P>"It may be Hastings!" was the eager shout.  Alas, as we advanced, the scene vanished!  A cruel mirage, in its mysterious way, had outlined the lake and cast our shadows near its shore.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Disappointment intensified our burning thirst, and my good mother gave her own and other suffering children wee lumps of sugar, moistened with a drop of peppermint, and later put a flattened bullet in each child's mouth to engage its attention and help keep the salivary glands in action.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then followed soul-trying hours.  Oxen, footsore and weary, stumbled under their yokes.  Women, heartsick and exhausted, could walk no farther.  As a last resort, the men hung the water pails on their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Thirty-six head of cattle were left on that desert, some dead, some lost.  Among the lost were all Mr. Reed's herd, except an ox and a cow.  His poor beasts had become frenzied in the night, as they were being driven toward water, and with the strength that comes with madness, had rushed away in the darkness.  Meanwhile, Mr. Reed, unconscious of his misfortune, was returning to his family, which he found by his wagon, some distance in the rear.  At daylight, he, with his wife and children, on foot, overtook my Uncle Jacob's wagons and were carried forward in them until their own were brought up.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After hurriedly making camp, all the men turned out to hunt the Reed cattle.  In every direction they searched, but found no clue.  Those who rode onward, however, discovered that we had reached only an oasis in the desert, and that six miles ahead of us lay another pitiless barren stretch.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Anguish and dismay now filled all hearts.  Husbands bowed their heads, appalled at the situation of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>It was plain that, try as we might, we could not get back to Fort Bridger.  We must proceed regardless of the fearful outlook.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After earnest consultation, it was deemed best to dig a trench and cache all Mr. Reed's effects, except such as could be packed into one wagon, and were essential for daily use.  This accomplished, Messrs. Graves and Breen each loaned him an ox, and these in addition to his own ox and cow yoked together, formed his team.  Upon examination, it was found that the woodwork of all the wagons had been shrunk and cracked by the dry atmosphere.  One of Mr. Keseberg's and one of my father's were in such bad condition that they were abandoned, left standing near those of Mr. Reed, as we passed out of camp.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The first snow of the season fell as we were crossing the narrow strip of land upon which we had rested and when we encamped for the night on its boundary, the waste before us was as cheerless, cold, and white as the winding sheet which enfolds the dead.</P>
187.sgm:<P>At dawn we resumed our toilful march, and travelled until four o'clock the following morning, when we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>While on the desert, my father's wagons had travelled last in the train, in order that no one should stray, or be left to die alone.  But as soon as we reached the mountainous country, he took the lead to open the way.  Uncle Jacob's wagons were always close to ours, for the two brothers worked together, one responding when the other called for help; and with the assistance of their teamsters, they were able to free the trail of many obstructions and prevent unnecessary delays.</P>
187.sgm:<P>From the Valley of Fifty Springs, we pursued a southerly course over more hills, and through fertile valleys, where we saw Indians in a state of nudity, who looked at us from a distance, but never approached our wagons, nor molested any one.  On the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>After another long day's drive, we stopped on a mountain-side close to a spring of cold, sweet water.  While supper was being prepared, one of the fires crept beyond bounds, spread rapidly, and threatened destruction to part of our train.  At the critical moment two strange Indians rushed upon the scene and rendered good service.  After the fire was extinguished, the Indians were rewarded, and were also given a generous meal at the tent of Mr. Graves.  Later, they settled themselves in friendly fashion beside his fire and were soon fast asleep.  Next morning, the Indians were gone, and had taken with them a new shirt and a yoke of good oxen belonging to their host.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Within the week, Indians again sneaked up to camp, and stole one of Mr. Graves's saddle-horses.  These were trials which made men swear vengeance, yet no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Conditions now were such that it seemed best to divide the train into sections and put each section under a sub-leader.  Our men were well equipped with side arms, rifles, and ammunition; nevertheless, anxious moments were common, as the wagons moved slowly and singly through dense thickets, narrow defiles, and rugged mountain gorges, one section often being out of sight of the others, and each man realizing that there could be no concerted action in the event of a general attack; that each must stay by his own wagon and defend as best he could the lives committed to his care.  No one rode horseback now, except the leaders, and those in charge of the loose cattle.  When darkness obscured the way, and after feeding-time, each section formed its wagons into a circle to serve as cattle corral, and night watches were keenly alert to give a still alarm if anything unusual came within sight or sound.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Day after day, from dawn to twilight, we moved onward, never stopping, except to give the oxen the necessary nooning, or to give them drink when water was available.  Gradually, the distance between sections lengthened, and so it happened that the wagons of my father and my uncle were two days in advance of the others, on the eighth of October, when Mr. Reed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>On the morning of October 5, when Mr. Reed's section broke camp, he and Mr. Eddy ventured off to hunt antelope, and were shot at a number of times by Indians with bows and arrows.  Empty-handed and disappointed, the two followed and overtook their companions about noon, at the foot of a steep hill near "Gravelly Ford," where the teams had to be doubled for the ascent.  All the wagons, except Pike's and Reed's, and one of Graves's in charge of John Snyder, had already been taken to the top.  Snyder was in the act of starting his team, when Milton Elliot, driving Reed's oxen, with Eddy's in the lead, also started.  Suddenly, the Reed and Eddy cattle became unmanageable, and in some way got mixed up with Snyder's team.  This provoked both drivers, and fierce words passed between them.  Snyder declared that the Reed team ought to be made to drag its wagon up without help.  Then he began to beat his own cattle about the head to get them out of the way.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Reed attempted to remonstrate with him for his cruelty, at which Snyder became more enraged, and threatened to strike both Reed and Elliot with his whip for interfering.  Mr. Reed replied sharply that they would settle the matter later.  This, Synder took as a threat, and retorted, "No, we'll settle it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Mrs. Reed, who rushed between the two men for the purpose of separating them, caught the force of the second blow from Snyder's whip on her shoulder.  While dodging the third blow, Reed drew his hunting knife and stabbed Snyder in the left breast.  Fifteen minutes later, John Snyder, with his head resting on the arm of William Graves, died, and Mr. Reed stood beside the corpse, dazed and sorrowful.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Near-by sections were immediately called into camp, and gloom, consternation, and anger pervaded it.  Mr. Reed and family were taken to their tent some distance from the others and guarded by their friends.  Later, an assembly was convened to decide what should be done.  The majority declared the deed murder, and demanded retribution.  Mr. Eddy and others pleaded extenuating circumstances and proposed that the accused should leave the camp.  After heated discussion this compromise was adopted, the assembly voting that Mr. Reed should be banished from the company.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Reed maintained that the deed was not prompted by malice, that he had acted in self-defence and in defence of his wife; and that he would not be driven from his helpless, dependent family.  The assembly promised that the company would care for his family, and limited his stay in camp.  His wife, fearing the consequence of noncompliance with the sentence, begged him to abide by it, and to push on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The group around my father's wagon were deeply touched by Mr. Reed's narrative.  Its members were friends of the slain and of the slayer.  Their sympathies clustered around the memory of the dead, and clung to the living.  They deplored the death of a fellow traveller, who had manfully faced many hardships, and was young, genial, and full of promise.  They regretted the act which took from the company a member who had been prominent in its organization, had helped to formulate its rules, and had, up to that unfortunate hour, been a co-worker with the other leading spirits for its best interests.  It was plain that the hardships and misfortunes of the journey had sharpened the tempers of both men, and the vexations of the morning had been too much for the overstrained nerves.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Reed breakfasted at our tent, but did not continue his journey alone.  Walter Herron, one of my father's helpers, decided to accompany him, and after hurried preparations, they went away together, bearing an urgent appeal from my father to Captain Sutter for necessary teams and provisions to carry the company through to California, also his personal pledge in writing that he would be responsible for the payment of the debt as soon as he should reach <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Immediately after the departure of Messrs. Reed and Herron, our wagons moved onward.  Night overtook us at a grewsome place where wood and feed were scarce and every drop of water was browned by alkali.  There, hungry wolves howled, and there we found and buried the bleaching bones of Mr. Salle&acute;, a member of the Hastings train, who had been shot by Indians.  After his companions had left his grave, the savages had returned, dug up the body, robbed it of its clothing, and left it to the wolves.</P>
187.sgm:<P>At four o'clock the following morning, October 10, the rest of the company, having travelled all night, drove into camp.  Many were in a state of great excitement, and some almost frenzied by the physical and mental suffering they had endured.  Accounts of the Reed-Snyder tragedy differed somewhat from that we had already heard.  The majority held that the assembly had been lenient with Mr. Reed and considerate for his family; that the action taken had been largely influenced by rules which Messrs. Reed, Donner, Thornton, and others had suggested for the government of Colonel Russell's train, and that there was no occasion for criticism, since the sentence was for the transgression, and not for the individual.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The loss of aged Mr. Hardcoop, whose fate was sealed soon after the death of John Synder, was the subject of bitter contention.  The old man was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The following morning, he again started with Keseberg, and when the section had been under way only a short time, the old man approached Mr. Eddy and begged for a place in some other wagon, saying he was sick and exhausted, and that Keseberg had put him out to die.  The road was still through deep, loose sand, and Mr. Eddy told him if he would only manage to go forward until the road should be easier on the oxen, he himself would take him in.  Hardcoop promised to try, yet the roads became so heavy that progress was yet slower and even the small children were forced to walk, nor did any one see when Mr. Hardcoop dropped behind.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Eddy had the first watch that night, and kept a bright fire burning on the hillside in hopes that it would guide the belated into camp.  Milton Elliot went on guard at midnight, and kept the fire till morning, yet neither sign nor sound of the missing came over that desolate trail.</P>
187.sgm:<P>In vain the watchers now besought Keseberg to return for Hardcoop.  Next they applied to Messrs. Graves and Breen, who alone had saddle horses able <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>This exposition of undeniable facts defeated the plans of the would-be rescuers, yet did not quiet their consciences.  When the section halted at noon, they again begged, though in vain, for horses which might enable them to do something for their deserted companion.</P>
187.sgm:<P>My father listened thoughtfully to the accounts of that harrowing incident, and although he realized that death must have ended the old man's sufferings within a few hours after he dropped by the wayside, he could not but feel deeply the bitterness of such a fate.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Who could peer into the near future and read between its lines the greater suffering which Mr. Hardcoop had escaped, or the trials in store for us?</P>
187.sgm:<P>We were in close range of ambushed savages, lying in wait for spoils.  While the company were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>INDIAN DEPREDATIONS--WOLFINGER'S DISAPPEARANCE--STANTON RETURNS WITH SUPPLIES FURNISHED BY CAPTAIN SUTTER--DONNER WAGONS SEPARATED FROM TRAIN FOREVER--TERRIBLE PIECE OF NEWS--FORCED INTO SHELTER AT DONNER LAKE--DONNER CAMP ON PROSSER CREEK.</P>
187.sgm:<P>ALL who managed to get beyond the sink of Ogden's River before midnight of October 12, reached Geyser Springs without further molestation, but the belated, who encamped at the sink were surprised at daylight by the Indians, who, while the herders were hurriedly taking a cup of coffee, swooped down and killed twenty-one head of cattle.  Among the number were all of Mr. Eddy's stock, except an ox and a cow that would not work together.  Maddened by his appalling situation, Eddy called for vengeance on his despoilers, and would have rushed to certain death, if the breaking of the lock of his rifle at the start had not stopped him.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Sullen and dejected, he cached the contents of his wagons, and with a meagre supply of food in a pack on his back, he and his wife, each carrying a child, set forth to finish the journey on foot.  To add to their discomfort, they saw Indians on adjacent hills dancing and gesticulating in savage delight.  In relating the above occurrence after the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:journey was finished, Mr. Eddy declared that no language could portray the desolation and heartsick feeling, nor the physical and mental torture which he and his wife experienced while travelling between the sink of Ogden's River and the Geyser Springs.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">Thornton.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>It was during that trying week that Mr. Wolfinger mysteriously disappeared.  At the time, he and Keseberg, with their wagons, were at the rear of the train, and their wives were walking in advance with other members of the company.  When camp was made, those two wagons were not in sight, and after dark the alarmed wives prevailed on friends to go in search of their missing husbands.  The searchers shortly found Keseberg leisurely driving toward camp.  He assured them that Wolfinger was not far behind him, so they returned without further search.</P>
187.sgm:<P>All night the frantic wife listened for the sound of the coming of her husband, and so poignant was her grief that at break of day, William Graves, Jr., and two companions went again in search of Mr. Wolfinger.  Five or six miles from camp, they came upon his tenantless wagon, with the oxen unhooked and feeding on the trail near-by.  Nothing in the wagon had been disturbed, nor did they find any sign of struggle, or of Indians.  After a diligent search for the missing man, his wagon and team was brought to camp and restored to Mrs. Wolfinger, and she was permitted to believe that her husband had been murdered by Indians and his body carried off.  Nevertheless, some suspected Keseberg of having had a hand in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Three days later Reinhart and Spitzer, who had not been missed, came into camp, and Mrs. Wolfinger was startled to recognize her husband's gun in their possession.  They explained that they were in the wagon with Mr. Wolfinger when the Indians rushed upon them, drove them off, killed Wolfinger and burned the wagon.  My father made a note of this conflicting statement to help future investigation of the case.</P>
187.sgm:<P>At Geyser Springs, the company cached valuable goods, among them several large cases of books and other heavy articles belonging to my father.  As will be seen later, the load in our family wagon thus lightened through pity for our oxen, also lessened the severity of an accident which otherwise might have been fatal to Georgia and me.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On the nineteenth of October, near the present site of Wadsworth, Nevada, we met Mr. Stanton returning from Sutter's Fort with two Indian herders driving seven mules, laden with flour and jerked beef.  Their arrival was hailed with great joy, and after a brief consultation with my father, Stanton and his Indians continued toward the rear, in order to distribute first to those most in need of provisions, also that the pack animals might be the sooner set apart to the use of those whose teams had given out, or had been destroyed by Indians.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Stanton had left Mr. McCutchen sick at Sutter's Fort.  He brought information also concerning <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARCH OF THE CARAVAN</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>UNITED STATES TROOPS CROSSING THE DESERT</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>In camp that night, Mr. Stanton outlined our course to the settlement, and in compliance with my father's earnest wish, consented to lead the train across the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  Frost in the air and snow on the distant peaks warned us against delays; yet, notwithstanding the need of haste, we were obliged to rest our jaded teams.  Three yoke of oxen had died from exhaustion within a week, and several of those remaining were not in condition to ascend the heavy grades before them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On the twentieth, Mr. Pike met death in his own tent by the accidental discharge of a six-shooter in the hands of Mr. Foster, his brother-in-law.  He left a young wife, and two small children, Naomi, three years of age, and Catherine, a babe in arms.  His loss was keenly felt by the company, for he was highly esteemed.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We broke camp on the twenty-second, and my father and uncle took our wagons to the rear of the train in order to favor our cattle, and also to be near families whose teams might need help in getting up the mountains.  That day we crossed the Truckee River for the forty-ninth and last time in eighty miles, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The train took the trail early next morning, expecting to cross the summit of the Sierras and reach California in less than two weeks.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The following circumstances, which parted us forever from the train which father had led through so many difficulties, were told me by my sister, Mrs. Elitha C. Wilder, now of Bruceville, California:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our five Donner wagons, and Mrs. Wolfinger's wagon, were a day or more behind the train, and between twelve and sixteen miles from the spot where we later made our winter camp, when an accident happened which nearly cost us your life, and indirectly prevented our rejoining the train.  Your mother and Frances were walking on ahead; you and Georgia were asleep in the wagon; and father was walking beside it, down a steep hill.  It had almost reached the base of the incline when the axle to the fore wheels broke, and the wagon tipped over on the side, tumbling its contents upon you two children.  Father and uncle, in great alarm, rushed to your rescue.  Georgia was soon hauled out safely through the opening in the back of the wagon sheets, but you were nowhere in sight, and father was sure you were smothering because you did not answer his call.  They worked breathlessly getting things out, and finally uncle came to your limp <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Much as we felt the shock, there was little time for self-indulgence.  Never were moments of greater importance; for while father and uncle were hewing a new axle, two men came from the head of the company to tell about the snow.  It was a terrible piece of news!</P>
187.sgm:<P>Those men reported that on the twenty-eighth of that month the larger part of the train had reached a deserted cabin near Truckee Lake (the sheet of water now known as Donner Lake) at the foot of Fre&acute;mont's Pass in the main chain of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  The following morning they had proceeded to within three miles of the summit; but finding snow there five feet in depth, the trail obliterated, and no place for making camp, they were obliged to return to the spot they had left early in the day.  There, they said, the company had assembled to discuss the next move, and great confusion prevailed as the excited members gave voice to their bitterest fears.  Some proposed to abandon the wagons and make the oxen carry out the children and provisions; some wanted to take the children and rations and start out on foot; and some sat brooding in dazed silence through the long night.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The messengers further stated that on the thirtieth, with Stanton as leader, and despite the falling sleet and snow, the forward section of the party united in another desperate effort to cross the summit, but encountered deeper drifts and greater difficulties.  As darkness crept over the whitened waste, wagons <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>After the messengers left, and as father and Uncle Jacob were hastening preparations for our own departure, new troubles beset us.  Uncle was giving the finishing touches to the axle, when the chisel he was using slipped from his grasp, and its keen edge struck and made a serious wound across the back of father's right hand which was steadying the timber.  The crippled hand was carefully dressed, and to quiet uncle's fears and discomfort, father made light of the accident, declaring that they had weightier matters for consideration than cuts and bruises.  The consequences of that accident, however, were far more wide-reaching than could have been anticipated.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Up and up we toiled until we reached an altitude of six thousand feet, and were within about ten miles of our companions at the lake, when the intense cold drove us into camp on Prosser Creek in Alder Creek Valley, a picturesque and sheltered nook two and a half miles in length and three-quarters of a mile in width.  But no one observed the picturesque grandeur of the forest-covered mountains which hem it in on the north and west; nor that eastward and southward it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>A piercing wind was driving storm-clouds toward us, and those who understood their threatening aspect realized that twenty-one persons, eight of them helpless children, were there at the mercy of the pitiless storm-king.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The teams were hurriedly unhooked, the tents pitched, and the men and the women began collecting material for more suitable quarters.  Some felled trees, some lopped off the branches, and some, with oxen, dragged the logs into position.  There was enough building material on the ground for a good sized foundation four logs deep, when night stopped the work.  The moon and stars came out before we went to bed, yet the following morning the ground was covered with snow two or three feet in depth, which had to be shovelled from the exposed beds before their occupants could rise.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I remember well that new day.  All plans for log cabins had to be abandoned.  There was no sheltered nook for shivering children, so father lifted Georgia and me on to a log, and mother tucked a buffalo robe around us, saying, "Sit here until we have a better place for you."  There we sat snug and dry, chatting and twisting our heads about, watching the hurrying, anxious workers.  Those not busy at the wagons were helping the builders to construct a permanent camp.</P>
187.sgm:<P>They cleared a space under a tall pine tree and reset the tent a few feet south of its trunk, facing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>To keep the beds off the wet earth, two rows of short posts were driven along the sides in the tent, and poles were laid across the tops, thus forming racks to support the pine boughs upon which the beds should be made.  While this was being done, Elitha, Leanna, and Mrs. Wolfinger were bringing poles and brush with which to strengthen and sheath the tent walls against wind and weather.  Even Sister Frances looked tall and helpful as she trudged by with her little loads.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The combination of tent and hut was designed for my father and family and Mrs. Wolfinger.  The teamsters, Samuel Shoemaker, Joseph Reinhart, James Smith, and John Baptiste, built their hut in Indian wigwam fashion.  Not far from us, across the stream, braced against a log, was reared a mixed structure of brush and tent for use of Uncle Jacob, Aunt Betsy, and William and Solomon Hook (Aunt Betsy's sons <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Before we two could leave our perch, the snow was falling faster and in larger flakes.  It made pictures for Georgia and me upon the branches of big and little trees; it gathered in a ridge beside us upon the log; it nestled in piles upon our buffalo robe; and by the time our quarters were finished, it was veiling Uncle Jacob's from view.  Everything within was cold, damp, and dreary, until our tired mother and elder sisters built the fire, prepared our supper, and sent us to bed, each with a lump of loaf sugar as comforter.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>SNOWBOUND--SCARCITY OF FOOD AT BOTH CAMPS--WATCHING FOR RETURN OF M'CUTCHEN AND REED.</P>
187.sgm:<P>WHEN we awoke the following morning, little heaps of snow lay here and there upon the floor.  No threshold could be seen, only a snow-bank reaching up to the white plain beyond, where every sound was muffled, and every object was blurred by falling flakes.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Father's face was very grave.  His morning caress had all its wonted tenderness, but the merry twinkle was gone from his eye, and the gladsome note from his voice.  For eight consecutive days, the fatal snow fell with but few short intermissions.  Eight days, in which there was nothing to break the monotony of torturing, inactive endurance, except the necessity of gathering wood, keeping the fires, and cutting anew the steps which led upward, as the snow increased in depth.  Hope well-nigh died within us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>All in camp fared alike, and all were on short rations.  Three of our men became dispirited, said that they were too weak and hungry to gather wood, and did not care how soon death should put an end to their miseries.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The out-of-door duties would have fallen wholly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Axes were dull, green wood was hard to cut, and harder to carry, whether through loose, dry snow, or over crusts made slippery by sleet and frost.  Cattle tracks were covered over.  Some of the poor creatures had perished under bushes where they sought shelter.  A few had become bewildered and strayed; others were found under trees in snow pits, which they themselves had made by walking round and round the trunks to keep from being snowed under.  These starvelings were shot to end their sufferings, and also with the hope that their hides and fleshless bones might save the lives of our snow-beleaguered party.  Every part of the animals was saved for food.  The locations of the carcasses were marked so that they could be brought piece by piece into camp; and even the green hides were spread against the huts to serve in case of need.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After the storm broke, John Baptiste was sent with a letter from my mother to the camp near the lake.  He was absent a number of days, for upon his arrival there, he found a party of fourteen ready to start next morning, on foot, across the summit.  He joined it, but after two days of vain effort, the party returned to camp, and he came back to us with an answer to the letter he had delivered.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>We then learned that most of those at the lake were better housed than we.  Some in huts, and the rest in three log structures, which came to be known respectively as the Murphy, Graves, and Breen cabins.  The last mentioned was the relic of earlier travellers<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">Built by Townsend party in 1844.  See McGlashan's "History of the Donner Party.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>Different parties, both with and without children, had repeatedly endeavored to force their way out of that wilderness of snow, but each in turn had become confused, and unconsciously moved in a circle back to camp.  Several persons had become snow-blind.  Every landmark was lost, even to Stanton, who had twice crossed the range.</P>
187.sgm:<P>All now looked to the coming of McCutchen and Reed for deliverance.  We had every reason to expect them soon, for each had left his family with the company, and had promised to return with succor.  Moreover, Stanton had brought tidings that the timely assistance of himself and comrade had enabled Reed to reach Sutter's Fort in safety; and that McCutchen would have accompanied him back, had he not been detained by illness.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Well, indeed, was it that we could not know that at the very time we were so anxiously awaiting their arrival, those two men, after struggling desperately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>It was also well that we were unaware of their baffling fears, when the vigorous efforts incited by the memorial presented by Reed to Commodore Stockton, the military Governor of California, were likewise frustrated by mountain storms.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>ANOTHER STORM--FOUR DEATHS IN DONNER CAMP--FIELD MICE USED FOR FOOD--CHANGED APPEARANCE OF THE STARVING--SUNSHINE--DEPARTURE OF THE "FORLORN HOPE"--WATCHING FOR RELIEF--IMPOSSIBLE TO DISTURB THE BODIES OF THE DEAD IN DONNER CAMP--ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF THE FIRST RELIEF PARTY.</P>
187.sgm:<P>MEANWHILE with us in the Sierras, November ended with four days and nights of continuous snow, and December rushed in with a wild, shrieking storm of wind, sleet, and rain, which ceased on the third.  The weather remained clear and cold until the ninth, when Milton Elliot and Noah James came on snowshoes to Donner's camp, from the lake cabins, to ascertain if their captain was still alive, and to report the condition of the rest of the company.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Before morning, another terrific storm came swirling and whistling down our snowy stairway, making fires unsafe, freezing every drop of water about the camp, and shutting us in from the light of heaven.  Ten days later Milton Elliot alone fought his way back to the lake camp with these tidings: "Jacob Donner, Samuel Shoemaker, Joseph Rhinehart, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:James Smith are dead, and the others in a low condition."<ANCHOR ID="n8-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n8-1">Patrick Breen's Diary.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>Uncle Jacob, the first to die, was older than my father, and had been in miserable health for years before we left Illinois.  He had gained surprisingly on the journey, yet quickly felt the influence of impending fate, foreshadowed by the first storm at camp.  His courage failed.  Complete prostration followed.</P>
187.sgm:<P>My father and mother watched with him during the last night, and the following afternoon helped to lay his body in a cave dug in the mountain side, beneath the snow.  That snow had scarcely resettled when Samuel Shoemaker's life ebbed away in happy delirium.  He imagined himself a boy again in his father's house and thought his mother had built a fire and set before him the food of which he was fondest.</P>
187.sgm:<P>But when Joseph Rhinehart's end drew near, his mind wandered, and his whitening lips confessed a part in Mr. Wolfinger's death; and my father, listening, knew not how to comfort that troubled soul.  He could not judge whether the self-condemning words were the promptings of a guilty conscience, or the ravings of an unbalanced mind.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Like a tired child falling asleep, was James Smith's death; and Milton Elliot, who helped to bury the four victims and then carried the distressing report to the lake camp, little knew that he would soon be among those later called to render a final accounting.  Yet it was even so.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Our camp having been thus depleted by death, Noah James, who had been one of my father's drivers, from Springfield until we passed out of the desert, now cast his lot again with ours, and helped John Baptiste to dig for the carcasses of the cattle.  It was weary work, for the snow was higher than the level of the guide marks, and at times they searched day after day and found no trace of hoof or horn.  The little field mice that had crept into camp were caught then and used to ease the pangs of hunger.  Also pieces of beef hide were cut into strips, singed, scraped, boiled to the consistency of glue, and swallowed with an effort; for no degree of hunger could make the saltless, sticky substance palatable.  Marrowless bones which had already been boiled and scraped, were now burned and eaten, even the bark and twigs of pine were chewed in the vain effort to soothe the gnawings which made one cry for bread and meat.</P>
187.sgm:<P>During the bitterest weather we little ones were kept in bed, and my place was always in the middle where Frances and Georgia, snuggling up close, gave me of their warmth, and from them I learned many things which I could neither have understood nor remembered had they not made them plain.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Just one happy play is impressed upon my mind.  It must have been after the first storm, for the snow bank in front of the cabin door was not high enough to keep out a little sunbeam that stole down the steps and made a bright spot upon our floor.  I saw it, and sat down under it, held it on my lap, passed my hand <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PASS IN THE SIERRA NEVADAS OF CALIFORNIA</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>From an old drawing made from description furnished by Wm. G. Murphy.<LB>CAMP AT DONNER LAKE, NOVEMBER, 1846</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>up and down in its brightness, and found that I could break its ray in two.  In fact, we had quite a frolic.  I fancied that it moved when I did, for it warmed the top of my head, kissed first one cheek and then the other, and seemed to run up and down my arm.  Finally I gathered up a piece of it in my apron and ran to my mother.  Great was my surprise when I carefully opened the folds and found that I had nothing to show, and the sunbeam I had left seemed shorter.  After mother explained its nature, I watched it creep back slowly up the steps and disappear.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Snowy Christmas brought us no "glad tidings," and New Year's Day no happiness.  Yet, each bright day that followed a storm was one of thanksgiving, on which we all crept up the flight of snow steps and huddled about on the surface in the blessed sunshine, but with our eyes closed against its painful and blinding glare.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Once my mother took me to a hole where I saw smoke coming up, and she told me that its steps led down to Uncle Jacob's tent, and that we would go down there to see Aunt Betsy and my little cousins.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I stooped low and peered into the dark depths.  Then I called to my cousins to come to me, because I was afraid to go where they were.  I had not seen them since the day we encamped.  At that time they were chubby and playful, carrying water from the creek to their tent in small tin pails.  Now, they were so changed in looks that I scarcely knew them, and they stared at me as at a stranger.  So I was glad <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Father's hand became worse.  The swelling and inflammation extending up the arm to the shoulder produced suffering which he could not conceal.  Each day that we had a fire, I watched mother sitting by his side, with a basin of warm water upon her lap, laving the wounded and inflamed parts very tenderly, with a strip of frayed linen wrapped around a little stick.  I remember well the look of comfort that swept over his worn features as she laid the soothed arm back into place.</P>
187.sgm:<P>By the middle of January the snow measured twelve and fourteen feet in depth.  Nothing could be seen of our abode except the coils of smoke that found their way up through the opening.  There was a dearth of water.  Prosser Creek was frozen over and covered with snow.  Icicles hung from the branches of every tree.  The stock of pine cones that had been gathered for lights was almost consumed.  Wood was so scarce that we could not have fire enough to cook our strips of rawhide, and Georgia heard mother say that we children had not had a dry garment on in more than a week, and that she did not know what to do about it.  Then like a smile from God, came another sunny day which not only warmed and dried us thoroughly but furnished a supply of water from dripping snowbanks.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The twenty-first was also bright, and John Baptiste went on snowshoes with messages to the lake camp.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The number to consume the slender stock of food had been lessened, however, on the sixteenth of December, some six weeks previously, by the departure of William Eddy, Patrick Dolan, Lemuel Murphy, William Foster, Mrs. Sarah Foster, Jay Fosdick, Mrs. Sarah Fosdick, Mrs. William McCutchen, Mrs. Harriet Pike, Miss Mary Graves, Franklin Graves, Sr., C. T. Stanton, Antonio, Lewis, and Salvador.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This party, which called itself "The Forlorn Hope," had a most memorable experience, as will be shown later.  In some instances husband had parted from wife, and father from children.  Three young mothers had left their babes in the arms of grandmothers.  It was a dire resort, a last desperate attempt, in face of death, to save those dependent upon them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Staff in hand, they had set forth on snowshoes, each carrying a pack containing little save a quilt and light rations for six days' journeying.  One had a rifle, ammunition, flint, and hatchet for camp use.  William Murphy and Charles Burger, who had originally been of the number, gave out before the close of the first day, and crept back to camp.  The others continued under the leadership of the intrepid Eddy and brave Stanton.</P>
187.sgm:<P>John Baptiste remained there a short time and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>This rekindled hope in us, even as it had revived courage and prolonged lives in the lake cabins, and we prayed, as they were praying, that the relief might come before its coming should be too late.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Oh, how we watched, hour after hour, and how often each day John Baptiste climbed to the topmost bough of a tall pine tree and, with straining eyes, scanned the desolate expanse for one moving speck in the distance, for one ruffled track on the snow which should ease our awful suspense.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Days passed.  No food in camp except an unsavory beef hide--pinching hunger called for more.  Again John Baptiste and Noah James went forth in anxious search for marks of our buried cattle.  They made excavations, then forced their hand-poles deep, deeper into the snow, but in vain their efforts--the nail and hook at the points brought up no sign of blood, hair, or hide.  In dread unspeakable they returned, and said:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"We shall go mad; we shall die!  It is useless to hunt for the cattle; but the <HI REND="italics">dead</HI>
187.sgm:<P>"No," replied father and mother, speaking for themselves.  "No, part of a hide still remains.  When it is gone we will perish, if that be the alternative."</P>
187.sgm:<P>The fact was, our dead could not have been disturbed even had the attempt been made, for the many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>It was a long, weary waiting, on starvation rations until the nineteenth of February.  I did not see any one coming that morning; but I remember that, suddenly, there was an unusual stir and excitement in the camp.  Three strangers were there, and one was talking with father.  The others took packs from their backs and measured out small quantities of flour and jerked beef and two small biscuits for each of us.  Then they went up to fell the sheltering pine tree over our tent for fuel; while Noah James, Mrs. Wolfinger, my two half-sisters, and mother kept moving about hunting for things.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Finally Elitha and Leanna came and kissed me, then father, "good-bye," and went up the steps, and out of sight.  Mother stood on the snow where she could see all go forth.  They moved in single file, --the leaders on snowshoes, the weak stepping in the tracks made by the strong.  Leanna, the last in line, was scarcely able to keep up.  It was not until after mother came back with Frances and Georgia that I was made to understand that this was the long-hoped-for relief party.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It had come and gone, and had taken Noah James, Mrs. Wolfinger, and my two half-sisters from us; then had stopped at Aunt Betsy's for William Hook, her eldest son, and my Cousin George, and all were now on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The rescuers, seven in number, who had followed instructions given them at the settlement, professed to have no knowledge of the Forlorn Hope, except that this first relief expedition had been outfitted by Captain Sutter and Alcalde Sinclair in response to Mr. Eddy's appeal, and that other rescue parties were being organized in California, and would soon come prepared to carry out the remaining children and helpless grown folk.  By this we knew that Mr. Eddy, at least, had succeeded in reaching the settlement.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>SUFFERINGS OF THE "FORLORN HOPE"--RESORT TO HUMAN FLESH--"CAMP OF DEATH"--BOOTS CRISPED AND EATEN--DEER KILLED--INDIAN <HI REND="italics">Rancheria</HI>
187.sgm:<P>ALTHOUGH we were so meagrely informed, it is well that my readers should, at this point, become familiar with the experiences of the expedition known as the Forlorn Hope,<ANCHOR ID="n9-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1">The experiences of the Donner Party, to which he refers in a footnote, suggested to Bret Harte the opening chapters of "Gabriel Conroy"; but he has followed the sensational accounts circulated by the newspapers, and the survivors find his work a mere travesty of the facts.  The narrative, however, does not purport to set forth the truth, but is confessedly imaginative.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>Words cannot picture, nor mind conceive, more torturing hardships and privations than were endured by that little band on its way to the settlement.  It left the camp on the sixteenth of December, with scant rations for six days, hoping in that time to force its way to Bear Valley and there find game.  But the storms <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>On the third day, Stanton's sight failed, and he begged piteously to be led; but, soon realizing the heart-rending plight of his companions, he uncomplainingly submitted to his fate.  Three successive nights, he staggered into camp long after the others had finished their stinted meal.  Always he was shivering from cold, sometimes wet with sleet and rain.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It is recorded that at no time had the party allowed more than an ounce of food per meal to the individual, yet the rations gave out on the night of the twentysecond, while they were still in a wilderness of snowpeaks.  Mr. Eddy only was better provided.  In looking over his pack that morning for the purpose of throwing away any useless article, he unexpectedly found a small bag containing about a half-pound of dried bear-meat.<ANCHOR ID="n9-2">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-2">Mr. Eddy had killed the bear and dried the meat early in the winter.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BEAR VALLEY.  FROM EMIGRANT GAP</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE TRACKLESS MOUNTAINS</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The following morning, while the others were preparing to leave camp, Stanton sat beside the smouldering fire smoking his pipe.  When ready to go forth, they asked him if he was coming, and he replied, "Yes, I am coming soon."  Those were his parting words to his friends, and his greeting to the Angel of Death.<ANCHOR ID="n9-3">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-3">His body was found there later by the First Relief Party.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>Twenty-four hours later, the members of that happless little band threw themselves upon the desolate waste of snow to ponder the problems of life and death; to search each the other's face for answer to the question their lips durst not frame.  Fathers who had left their families, and mothers who had left their babes, wanted to go back and die with them, if die they must; but Mr. Eddy and the Indians--those who had crossed the range with Stanton--declared that they would push on to the settlement.  Then Mary Graves, in whose young heart were still whisperings of hope, courageously said:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I, too, will go on, for to go back and hear the cries of hunger from my little brothers and sisters is more than I can stand.  I shall go as far as I can, let the consequences be what they may."</P>
187.sgm:<P>W. F. Graves, her father, would not let his daughter proceed alone, and finally all decided to make a final, supreme effort.  Yet--think of it--they were without one morsel of food!</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Even the wind seemed to hold its breath as the suggestion was made that, "were one to die, the rest might live."  Then the suggestion was made that lots be cast, and whoever drew the longest slip should be the sacrifice.  Mr. Eddy endorsed the plan.  Despite opposition from Mr. Foster and others, the slips of paper were prepared, and great-hearted Patrick Dolan drew the fatal slip.  Patrick Dolan, who had come away from camp that his famishing friends might prolong their lives by means of the small stock of food which he had to leave!  Harm a hair of that good man's head?  Not a soul of that starving band would do it.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Eddy then proposed that they resume their journey as best they could until death should claim a victim.  All acquiesced.  Slowly rising to their feet, they managed to stagger and to crawl forward about three miles to a tree which furnished fuel for their Christmas fire.  It was kindled with great difficulty, for in cutting the boughs, the hatchet blade flew off the handle and for a time was lost in deep snow.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, every puff of wind was laden with killing frost, and in sight of that glowing fire, Antonio froze to death.  Mr. Graves, who was also breathing heavily, when told by Mr. Eddy that he was dying, replied that he did not care.  He, however, called his daughters, Mrs. Fosdick and Mary Graves, to him, and by his parting injunctions, showed that he was still able to realize keenly the dangers that beset them.  Remembering how their faces had paled at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>About ten o'clock, pelting hail, followed by snow on the wings of a tornado, swept every spark of fire from those shivering mortals, whose voices now mingled with the shrieking wind, calling to heaven for relief.  Mr. Eddy, knowing that all would freeze to death in the darkness if allowed to remain exposed, succeeded after many efforts in getting them close together between their blankets where the snow covered them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>With the early morning, Patrick Dolan became delirious and left camp.  He was brought back with difficulty and forcibly kept under cover until late in the day, when he sank into a stupor, whence he passed quietly into that sleep which knows no waking.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The crucial hour had come.  Food lay before the starving, yet every eye turned from it and every hand dropped irresolute.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Another night of agony passed, during which Lemuel Murphy became delirious and called long and loud <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Eddy now fed his waning strength on shreds of his concealed bear meat, hoping that he might survive to save the giver.  The rest in camp could scarcely walk, by the twenty-eighth, and their sensations of hunger were deminishing.  This condition forebode delirium and death, unless stayed by the only means at hand.  It was in very truth a pitiful alternative offered to the sufferers.</P>
187.sgm:<P>With sickening anguish the first morsels were prepared and given to Lemuel Murphy, but for him they were too late.  Not one touched flesh of kindred body.  Nor was there need of restraining hand, or warning voice to gauge the small quantity which safety prescribed to break the fast of the starving.  Death would have been preferable to that awful meal, had relentless fate not said: "Take, eat that ye may live.  Eat, lest ye go mad and leave your work undone!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>All but the Indians obeyed the mandate, and were strengthened and reconciled to prepare the remaining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Hitherto, the wanderers had been guided partly by the fitful sun, partly by Lewis and Salvador, the Indians who had come with Stanton from Sutter's Fort.  In the morning, however, when they were ready to leave that spot, which was thereafter known as the "Camp of Death," Salvador, who could speak a little English, insisted that he and Lewis were lost, and, therefore, unable to guide them farther.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Nevertheless, the party at once set out and travelled instinctively until evening.  The following morning they wrapped pieces of blanket around their cracked and swollen feet and again struggled onward until late in the afternoon, when they encamped upon a high ridge.  There they saw beyond, in the distance, a wide plain which they believed to be the Sacramento Valley.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This imaginary glimpse of distant lowland gave them a peaceful sleep.  The entire day of December 31 was spent in crossing a can&tilde;on, and every footstep left its trace of blood in the snow.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When they next encamped, Mr. Eddy saw that poor Jay Fosdick was failing, and he begged him to summon up all his courage and energy in order to reach the promised land, now so near.  They were again without food; and William Foster, whose mind had become unbalanced by the long fast, was ready to kill Mrs. McCutchen or Miss Graves.  Mr. Eddy confronted and intimidated the crazed sufferer, who next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>January 1, 1847, was, to the little band of eight, a day of less distressing trials; its members resumed travel early, braced by unswerving will-power.  They stopped at midday and revived strength by eating the toasted strings of their snowshoes.  Mr. Eddy also ate his worn out moccasins, and all felt a renewal of hope upon seeing before them an easier grade which led to night-camp where the snow was only six feet in depth.  Soothed by a milder temperature, they resumed their march earlier next morning and descended to where the snow was but three feet deep.  There they built their camp-fire and slightly crisped the leather of a pair of old boots and a pair of shoes which constituted their evening meal, and was the last of their effects available as food.</P>
187.sgm:<P>An extraordinary effort on the third day of the new year brought them to bare ground between patches of snow.  They were still astray among the western foothills of the Sierras, and sat by a fire under an oak tree all night, enduring hunger that was almost maddening.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Jay Fosdick was sinking rapidly, and Mr. Eddy resolved to take the gun and steal away from camp at dawn.  But his conscience smote him, and he finally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>With a thrill of emotion too intense for words, with a prayer in his heart too fervent for utterance, Mr. Eddy turned his tearful eyes toward Mary and saw her weeping like a child.  A moment later, that man and that woman who had once said that they knew not how to pray, were kneeling beside that newly found track pleading in broken accents to the Giver of all life, for a manifestation of His power to save their starving band.  Long restrained tears were still streaming down the cheeks of both, and soothing their anxious hearts as they arose to go in pursuit of the deer.  J. Q. Thornton says:</P>
187.sgm:<P>They had not proceeded far before they saw a large buck about eighty yards distant.  Mr. Eddy raised his rifle and for some time tried to bring it to bear upon the deer, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>He brought the gun to his face the third time, and elevated the muzzle above the deer, let it descend until he saw the animal through the sight, when the rifle cracked.  Mary immediately wept aloud, exclaiming, "Oh, merciful God, you have missed it!"  Mr. Eddy assured her that he had not; that the rifle was upon it the moment of firing; and that, in addition to this, the animal had dropped its tail between its legs, which this animal always does when wounded.</P>
187.sgm:<P>His belief was speedily confirmed.  The deer ran a short distance, then fell, and the two eager watchers hastened to it as fast as their weakened condition would allow.  Mr. Eddy cut the throat of the expiring beast with his pocket-knife, and he and his companion knelt down and drank the warm blood that flowed from the wound.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The excitement of getting that blessed food, and the strength it imparted, produced a helpful reaction, and enabled them to sit down in peace to rest a while, before attempting to roll their treasure to the tree nearby, where they built a fire and prepared the entrails.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Eddy fired several shots after dark, so that the others might know that he had not abandoned them.  Meanwhile, Mr. and Mrs. Foster, Mrs. McCutchen, and Mrs. Pike had moved forward and made their camp half-way between Mr. Eddy's new one and that of the previous night.  Mr. Fosdick, however, being too weak to rise, remained at the first camp.  His devoted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The sufferer had heard the crack of Mr. Eddy's rifle at the time he killed the deer, and said, feebly, "There!  Eddy has killed a deer!  Now, if I can only get to him I shall live!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>But in the stillness of that cold, dark night, Jay Fosdick's spirit fled alone.  His wife wrapped their only blanket about his body, and lay down on the ground beside him, hoping to freeze to death.  The morning dawned bright, the sun came out, and the lone widow rose, kissed the face of her dead, and, with a small bundle in her hand, started to join Mr. Eddy.  She passed a hunger-crazed man on the way from the middle camp, going to hers, and her heart grew sick, for she knew that her loved one's body would not be spared for burial rites.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She found Mr. Eddy drying his deer meat before the fire, and later saw him divide it so that each of his companions in the camps should have an equal share.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The seven survivors, each with his portion of venison, resumed travel on the sixth and continued in the foothills a number of days, crawling up the ascents, sliding down the steeps; often harassed by fears of becoming lost near the goal, yet unaware that they were astray.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The venison had been consumed.  Hope had almost died in the heart of the bravest, when at the close of day on the tenth of January, twenty-five days from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The following morning the chief sent his runners to other <HI REND="italics">rancherias, en route</HI>
187.sgm: to the settlement, telling his people of the distress of the pale-faces who were coming toward them, and who would need food.  When the Forlorn Hope was ready to move on, the chief led the way, and an Indian walked on either side of each sufferer supporting and helping the unsteady feet.  At each <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
187.sgm:<P>On the seventeenth, the chief with much difficulty procured, for Mr. Eddy, a gill of pine nuts which the latter found so nutritious that the following morning, on resuming travel, he was able to walk without support.  They had proceeded less than a mile when his companions sank to the ground completely unnerved.  They had suddenly given up and were willing to die.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The old chief sent an Indian with him as a guide and support.  Relieved of the sight and personal responsibility of his enfeebled companions, Mr. Eddy felt a renewal of strength and determination.  He pressed onward, scarcely heeding his dusky guide.  At the end of five miles they met another Indian, and Mr. Eddy, now conscious that his feet were giving out, promised the stranger tobacco, if he would go with them and help to lead him to the "white man's house."</P>
187.sgm:<P>And so that long, desperate struggle for life, and for the sake of loved ones, ended an hour before sunset, when Mr. Eddy, leaning heavily upon the Indians, halted before the door of Colonel M. D. Richey's home, thirty-five miles from Sutter's Fort.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The first to meet him was the daughter of the house, whom he asked for bread.  Thornton says:</P>
187.sgm:<P>She looked at him, burst out crying, and took hold of him to assist him into the room.  He was immediately placed in bed, in which he lay unable to turn his body during four days.  In a very short time he had food brought to him by Mrs. Richey, who sobbed as she fed the miserable and frightful being before her.  Shortly, Harriet, the daughter, had carried the news from house to house in the neighborhood, and horses were running at full speed from place to place until all preparations were made for taking relief to those whom Mr. Eddy had left in the morning.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>William Johnson John Howell, John Rhodes, Mr. Keiser, Mr. Sagur, Racine Tucker, and Joseph Varro assembled at Mr. Richey's immediately.  The females collected the bread they had, with tea, sugar, and coffee, amounting to as much as four men could carry.  Howell, Rhodes, Sagur, and Tucker started at once, on foot, with the Indians as guides, and arrived at camp, between fifteen and eighteen miles distant, at midnight.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Eddy had warned the outgoing party against giving the sufferers as much food as they might want, but, on seeing them, the tender-hearted men could not deny their tearful begging for "more."  One of the relief was kept busy until dawn preparing food which the rest gave to the enfeebled emigrants.  This overdose of kindness made its victims temporarily very ill, but caused no lasting harm.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Early on the morning of January 18, Messrs. Richey, Johnson, Varro, and Keiser, equipped with horses and other necessaries, hurried away to bring in the refugees, together with their comrades who had gone on before.  By ten o'clock that night the whole of the Forlorn Hope were safe in the homes of their benefactors.  Mr. Richey declared that he and his party had retraced Mr. Eddy's track six miles, by the blood from his feet; and that they could not have believed that he had travelled that eighteen miles, if they themselves had not passed over the ground in going to his discouraged companions.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>RELIEF MEASURES INAUGURATED IN CALIFORNIA--DISTURBED CONDITIONS BECAUSE OF MEXICAN WAR--GENEROUS SUBSCRIPTIONS--THREE PARTIES ORGANIZE--"FIRST RELIEF," UNDER RACINE TUCKER; "SECOND RELIEF," UNDER REED AND GREENWOOD; AND RELAY CAMP UNDER WOODWORTH--FIRST RELIEF PARTY CROSSES SNOWBELT AND REACHES DONNER LAKE.</P>
187.sgm:<P>THE kindness and sympathy shown Mr. Eddy by the good people in the neighborhood of the Richey and Johnson ranches encouraged his efforts in behalf of his fellow-sufferers in the mountains.  While the early sunlight of January 19 was flooding his room with cheer and warmth, he dictated a letter to Mr. John Sinclair, Alcalde of the Upper District of California, living near Sutter's Fort, in which he stated as briefly as possible the conditions and perils surrounding the snow-bound travellers, and begged him to use every means in his power toward their immediate rescue.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Bear River was running high, and the plain between it and Sutter's Fort seemed a vast quagmire, but John Rhodes volunteered to deliver the letter.  He was ferried over the river on a raft formed of two logs lashed together with strips of rawhide.  Then he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>It was dark when he reached Sutter's Fort, nevertheless from house to house he spread the startling report: "Men, women, and little children are snowbound in the Sierras, and starving to death!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>Captain Kerns in charge at the Fort, pledged his aid, and influence to the cause of relief.  Captain Sutter, who had already twice sent supplies, first by Stanton and again by McCutchen and Reed, in their unsuccessful attempt to cross the mountains, at once agreed to coo&die;perate with Alcalde Sinclair.</P>
187.sgm:<P>While Captain Kerns at Sutter's Fort was sending messengers to different points, and Mrs. Sinclair was collecting clothing to replace the tattered garments of the members of the Forlorn Hope, her husband despatched an open letter to the people of San Francisco, describing the arrival of the survivors of the Forlorn Hope, and the heart-rending condition of those remaining in the mountains.  He urged immediate action, and offered his services for individual work, or to coo&die;perate with Government relief, or any parties that might be preparing to go out with Messrs. Reed and McCutchen, who were known to be endeavoring to raise a second expedition.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The letter was taken to the City Hotel in San Francisco, and read aloud in the dining-room.  Its contents <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S FORT</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0019" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SAM BRANNAN'S STORE AT SUTTER'S FORT</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Existing war between Mexico and the United States was keeping California in a disturbed condition.  Most of the able-bodied male emigrants had enlisted under Captain Fre&acute;mont as soon as they reached the country, and were still on duty in the southern part of the province; and the non-enlisted were deemed necessary for the protection of the colonies of American women and children encamped on the soil of the enemy.  Moreover, all felt that each man who should attempt to cross the snow belt would do so at the peril of his life.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Reed, who in the late Autumn had sent petitions to the Military Governor and to Lieutenant Washington A. Bartlett of the United States Navy, Alcalde of the town and district of San Francisco, but as yet had obtained nothing, now appeared before each in person, and was promised assistance.  Captain Mervine of the United States Navy, and Mr. Richardson, United States Collector, each subscribed fifty dollars to the cause on his own account.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>As a result of these appeals, Alcalde Bartlett called a public meeting; and so intense was the feeling that Mr. Dunleary, "the first speaker, had scarcely taken his seat on the platform, when the people rushed to the chairman's table from all parts of the house with their hands full of silver dollars," and could hardly be induced to stay their generosity until the meeting was organized.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A treasurer and two committees were appointed; the one to solicit subscriptions, and the other to purchase supplies.  The Alcalde was requested to act with both committees.  Seven hundred dollars was subscribed before the meeting adjourned.  Seven hundred dollars, in an isolated Spanish province, among newly arrived immigrants, was a princely sum to gather.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Messrs. Ward and Smith, in addition to a generous subscription, offered their launch <HI REND="italics">Dice mi Nana</HI>
187.sgm:<P>It was decided to fit out an expedition, under charge of Past Midshipman Woodworth, who had tendered his services for the purpose, he to act under instructions of the Military Governor and coo&die;perate with the committee aiding Reed.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Soon thereafter "Old Trapper Greenwood" appeared in San Francisco, asking for assistance in fitting out a following to go to the mountains with himself and McCutchen, Mr. George Yount and others in and around Sonoma and Napa having recommended him as leader.  Donations of horses, mules, beef, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Greenwood urged that he should have ten or twelve men on whom he could rely after reaching deep snow.  These, he said, he could secure if he had the ready money to make advances and to procure the necessary warm clothing and blankets.  He had crossed the Sierras before, when the snow lay deep on the summit, and now proposed to drive over horses and kill them at the camps as provisions for the sufferers.  If this scheme should fail, he and his sons with others would get food to the camp on snowshoes.  Thornton says:</P>
187.sgm:<P>The Governor-General of California, after due form, and trusting to the generosity and humanity of the Government which he represented, appropriated four hundred dollars on Government account toward outfitting this relief party.  Furthermore, in compliance with an application from Alcalde Bartlett (for the committee), Captain Mervine, of the U.S. frigate <HI REND="italics">Savannah</HI>
187.sgm:, furnished from the ship's stores ten days' full rations for ten men.  The crews of the <HI REND="italics">Savannah</HI>
187.sgm: and the sloop <HI REND="italics">Warren</HI>
187.sgm:, and the marines in garrison at San Francisco, increased the relief fund to thirteen hundred dollars.  Messrs. Mellus and Howard tendered their launch to carry the party up the bay to Sonoma, and Captain Sutter proffered his launch <HI REND="italics">Sacramento</HI>
187.sgm:<P>It was now settled that the "Reed-Greenwood party" should go to Johnson's ranch by way of Sonoma and Napa, and Woodworth with his men and supplies, including <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, before Alcalde Sinclair's letter had time to reach San Francisco, he and Captain Sutter began outfitting the men destined to become the "First Relief."  Aguilla Glover and R. S. Moutrey volunteered their services, declaring their willingness to undertake the hazardous journey for the sake of the lives they might save.</P>
187.sgm:<P>To hasten recruits for service, Captain Sutter and Alcalde Sinclair promised that in case the Government should fail to grant the sum, they themselves would become responsible for the payment of three dollars per day to each man who would get food through to the snow-bound camps.  Accordingly, Aguilla Glover and R. S. Moutrey, driving pack animals well laden with warm clothing, blankets, and food supplies, left the Fort at sunrise on the morning of February the first, and on the third reached Johnson's ranch, where they joined Messrs. Tucker, Johnson, Richey and others, who, being anxious to assist in the good work, had killed, and were fire-drying, beef to take up the mountains.  Here two days were spent making pack-saddles, driving in horses, and getting supplies in shape.  Indians were kept at the handmill grinding wheat.  Part of the flour was sacked, and part converted into bread by the women in the vicinity.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On the morning of the fifth of February, Alcalde <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Racine Tucker, Aguilla Glover, R. S. Moutrey, John Rhodes, Daniel Rhodes, Edward Coffemeir, D. Richey, James Curtis, William Eddy,<ANCHOR ID="n10-1a">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: William Coon, George Tucker, Adolph Brenheim, and John Foster.<ANCHOR ID="n10-1b">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1a n10-1b">Of the Forlorn Hope.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>This party is generally known as the "First Relief."  Their route to the snow-belt lay through sections of country which had become so soft and oozy that the horses often sank in mire, flank deep; and the streams were so swollen that progress was alarmingly slow.  On the second day they were driven into camp early by heavy rains which drenched clothing, blankets, and even the provisions carefully stored under the saddles and leather saddle-covers.  This caused a delay of thirty-six hours, for everything had to be sun or fire dried before the party could resume travel.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Upon reaching Mule Springs, the party found the snow from three to four feet deep, and, contrary to expectations, saw that it would be impossible to proceed farther with the horses.  Mr. Eddy was now ill of fever, and unfit to continue the climb; whereupon his companions promised to bring out his loved ones if he would return with Joe Varro, whom Mr. Johnson <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>At Mule Springs, the party built a brush storehouse for the extra supplies and appointed George Tucker and William Coon camp-keepers.  Then they prepared packs containing jerked beef, flour, and bread, each weighing between forty and seventy-five pounds, according to the temperament and strength of the respective carriers.  The following morning ten men started on their toilsome march to Bear Valley, where they arrived on the thirteenth, and at once began searching for the abandoned wagon and provisions which Reed and McCutchen had cached the previous Autumn, after their fruitless attempt to scale the mountains.  The wagon was found under snow ten feet in depth; but its supplies had been destroyed by wild beasts.  Warned by this catastrophe, the First Relief decided to preserve its supplies for the return trip by hanging them in parcels from ropes tied to the boughs of trees.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The ten kept together courageously until the fifteenth; then Mr. M. D. Richey, James Curtis, and Adolph Brenheim gave up and turned back.  Mr. Tucker, fearing that others might become disheartened and do likewise, guaranteed each man who would persevere to the end, five dollars per diem, dating from the time the party entered the snow.  The remaining seven pushed ahead, and on the eighteenth, encamped on the summit overlooking the lake, where the snow was said to be forty feet in depth.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The following morning Aguilla Glover and Daniel Rhodes were so oppressed by the altitude that their companions had to relieve them of their packs and help them on to the cabins, which, as chronicled in a previous chapter, the party reached on the nineteenth of February, 1847.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>WATCHING FOR THE SECOND RELIEF PARTY--"OLD NAVAJO"--LAST FOOD IN CAMP.</P>
187.sgm:<P>AFTER the departure of the First Relief we who were left in the mountains began to watch and pray for the coming of the Second Relief, as we had before watched and prayed for the coming of the First.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Sixteen-year-old John Baptiste was disappointed and in ill humor when Messrs. Tucker and Rhodes insisted that he, being the only able-bodied man in the Donner camp, should stay and cut wood for the enfeebled, until the arrival of other rescuers.  The little half-breed was a sturdy fellow, but he was starving too, and thought that he should be allowed to save himself.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After he had had a talk with father, however, and the first company of refugees had gone, he became reconciled to his lot, and served us faithfully.  He would take us little ones up to exercise upon the snow, saying that we should learn to keep our feet on the slick, frozen surface, as well as to wade through slush and loose drifts.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Frequently, when at work and lonesome, he would call Georgia and me up to keep him company, and when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>For the time, he lived at Aunt Betsy's tent, because Solomon Hook was snow-blind and demented, and at times restless and difficult to control.  The poor boy, some weeks earlier, had set out alone to reach the settlement, and after an absence of forty-eight hours was found close to camp, blind, and with his mind unbalanced.  He, like other wanderers on that desolate waste, had become bewildered, and, unconsciously, circled back near to the starting-point.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Aunt Betsy came often to our tent, and mother frequently went to hers, and they knelt together and asked for strength to bear their burdens.  Once, when mother came back, she reported to father that she had discovered bear tracks quite close to camp, and was solicitous that the beast be secured, as its flesh might sustain us until rescued.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>As father grew weaker, we children spent more time upon the snow above camp.  Often, after his wound was dressed and he fell into a quiet slumber, our everbusy, thoughtful mother would come to us and sit on the tree trunk.  Sometimes she brought paper and wrote; sometimes she sketched the mountains and the tall tree-tops, which now looked like small trees growing up through the snow.  And often, while knitting or sewing, she held us spell-bound with wondrous tales of "Joseph in Egypt," of "Daniel in the den of lions," of "Elijah healing the widow's son," of dear little Samuel, who said, "Speak Lord, for Thy servant heareth," and of the tender, loving Master, who took young children in his arms and blessed them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>With me sitting on her lap, and Frances and Georgia at either side, she referred to father's illness and lonely condition, and said that when the next "Relief" came, we little ones might be taken to the settlement, without either parent, but, God willing, both would follow later.  Who could be braver or tenderer than she, as she prepared us to go forth with strangers and live without her?  While she, without medicine, without lights, would remain and care for our suffering father, in hunger and in cold, and without her little girls to kiss good-morning and good-night.  She taught us how to gain friends among those whom we should meet, and what to answer when asked whose children we were.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Often her eyes gazed wistfully to westward, where sky and mountains seemed to meet, and she told us <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The last food which I remember seeing in our camp before the arrival of the Second Relief was a thin mould of tallow, which mother had tried out of the trimmings of the jerked beef brought us by the First Relief.  She had let it harden in a pan, and after all other rations had given out, she cut daily from it three small white squares for each of us, and we nibbled off the four corners very slowly, and then around and around the edges of the precious pieces until they became too small for us to hold between our fingers.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>ARRIVAL OF SECOND RELIEF, OR REED-GREENWOOD PARTY--FEW SURVIVORS STRONG ENOUGH TO TRAVEL--WIFE'S CHOICE--PARTINGS AT DONNER CAMP--MY TWO SISTERS AND I DESERTED--DEPARTURE OF SECOND RELIEF PARTY.</P>
187.sgm:<P>IT was the first of March, about ten days after the arrival of the First Relief, before James Reed and William McCutchen succeeded in reaching the party they had left long months before.  They, together with Brit Greenwood, Hiram Miller, Joseph Jondro, Charles Stone, John Turner, Matthew Dofar, Charles Cady, and Nicholas Clark constituted the Second Relief.</P>
187.sgm:<P>They reported having met the First Relief with eighteen refugees at the head of Bear Valley, three having died <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Consequently this Reed-Greenwood party, realizing that this was no time for tarrying, had hurried on to the lake cabins, where Mr. Reed had the happiness of finding his children still alive.  There he and five companions encamped upon the snow and fed and soothed the unfortunates.  Two members continued on to Aunt Betsy's abode, and Messrs. Cady and Clark came to ours.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This Relief had followed the example of its predecessor in leaving supplies at marked caches along the trail for the return trip.  Therefore, it reached camp with a frugal amount for distribution.  The first rations were doled out with careful hand, lest harm should come to the famishing through overeating, still, the rescuers administered sufficient to satisfy the fiercest cravings and to give strength for the prospective journey.</P>
187.sgm:<P>While crossing Alder Creek Valley to our tent that first afternoon, Messrs. Cady and Clark had seen fresh tracks of a bear and cubs, and in the evening the latter took one of our guns and went in pursuit of the game which would have been a godsend to us.  It was dark when he returned and told my mother that he had wounded the old bear near the camp, but that she had escaped with her young through the pines into a clump of tamarack, and that he would be able to follow her in the morning by the blood-stains on the snow.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, the two men who had come to Aunt Betsy's with food thought it best not to tell her that her son William had died <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm: to the settlement with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Thirty-one of the company were still in the camps when this party arrived, nearly all of them children, unable to travel without assistance, and the adults were too feeble to give much aid to the little ones upon the snow.  Consequently, when my father learned that the Second Relief comprised only ten men, he felt that he himself would never reach the settlement.  He was willing to be left alone, and entreated mother to leave him and try to save herself and us children.  He reminded her that his life was almost spent, that she could do little for him were she to remain, and that in caring for us children she would be carrying on his work.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She who had to choose between the sacred duties of wife and mother, thought not of self.  She looked first at her helpless little children, then into the face of her suffering and helpless husband, and tenderly, unhesitatingly, announced her determination to remain and care for him until both should be rescued, or death should part them.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0020" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>From an old drawing made from description furnished by Wm. G. Murphy  ARRIVAL OF RELIEF PARTY, FEBRUARY 18, 1847</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Photograph by Lynwood Abbott.<LB>DONNER LAKE</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Perplexities and heartaches multiplied with the morning hours of the following day.  Mr. Clark, being anxious to provide more food, started early to hunt the wounded bear.  He had not been gone long, when Mr. Stone arrived from the lake cabins and told Mr. Cady that the other members of the Relief had become alarmed at gathering storm clouds, and had resolved to select at once the ablest among the emigrants and hasten with them across the summit, and to leave Clark, Cady, and himself to cut the necessary fuel for the camps, and otherwise assist the sufferers until the Third Relief should reach them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Cady and Stone, without waiting to inform Clark, promptly decided upon their course of action.  They knew the scarcity of provisions in camp, the condition of the trail over the mountains, the probability of long, fierce March storms, and other obstacles which might delay future promised relief, and, terror-stricken, determined to rejoin their party, regardless of opposition, and return to the settlement.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mother, fearing that we children might not survive another storm in camp, begged Messrs. Cady and Stone to take us with them, offering them five hundred dollars in coin, to deliver us to Elitha and Leanna at Sutter's Fort.  The agreement was made, and she collected a few keepsakes and other light articles, which she wished us to have, and which the men seemed more than willing to carry out of the mountains.  Then, lovingly, she combed our hair and helped us to dress quickly for the journey.  When we were ready, except <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Frances was six years and eight months old and could trudge along quite bravely, but Georgia, who was little more than five, and I, lacking a week of four years, could not do well on the heavy trail, and we were soon taken up and carried.  After travelling some distance, the men left us sitting on a blanket upon the snow, and went ahead a short distance where they stopped and talked earnestly with many gesticulations.  We watched them, trembling lest they leave us there to freeze.  Then Frances said,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Don't feel afraid.  If they go off and leave us, I can lead you back to mother by our foot tracks on the snow."</P>
187.sgm:<P>After a seemingly long time, they returned, picked us up and took us on to one of the lake cabins, where without a parting word, they left us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The Second Relief Party, of which these men were members, left camp on the third of March.  They took with them seventeen refugees--the Breen and Graves families, Solomon Hook, Isaac and Mary Donner, and Martha and Thomas, Mr. Reed's two youngest children.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>A FATEFUL CABIN--MRS. MURPHY GIVES MOTHERLY COMFORT--THE GREAT STORM--HALF A BISCUIT--ARRIVAL OF THIRD RELIEF--"WHERE IS MY BOY?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>HOW can I describe that fateful cabin, which was dark as night to us who had come in from the glare of day?  We heard no word of greeting and met no sign of welcome, but were given a dreary resting-place near the foot of the steps, just inside the open doorway, with a bed of branches to lie upon, and a blanket to cover us.  After we had been there a short time, we could distinguish persons on other beds of branches, and a man with bushy hair reclining beside a smouldering fire.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Soon a child began to cry, "Give me some bread.  Oh, give me some meat!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then another took up the same pitiful wail.  It continued so long that I wept in sympathy, and fastened my arms tightly around my sister Frances' neck and hid my eyes against her shoulder.  Still I heard that hungry cry, until a husky voice shouted,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Be quiet, you crying children, or I'll shoot you."</P>
187.sgm:<P>But the silence was again and again broken by that heart-rending plea, and again and again were the voices hushed by the same terrifying threat.  And we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>We were cold, and too frightened to feel hungry, nor were we offered food that night, but next morning Mr. Reed's little daughter Mattie appeared carrying in her apron a number of newly baked biscuits which her father had just taken from the hot ashes of his camp fire.  Joyfully she handed one to each inmate of the cabin, then departed to join those ready to set forth on the journey to the settlement.  Few can know how delicious those biscuits tasted, and how carefully we caught each dropping crumb.  The place seemed drearier after their giver left us, yet we were glad that her father was taking her to her mother in California.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Soon the great storm which had been lowering broke upon us.  We were not exposed to its fury as were those who had just gone from us, but we knew when it came, for snow drifted down upon our bed and had to be scraped off before we could rise.  We were not allowed near the fire and spent most of our time on our bed of branches.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Dear, kind Mrs. Murphy, who for months had taken care of her own son Simon, and her grandson George Foster, and little James Eddy, gave us a share of her motherly attention, and tried to feed and comfort us.  Affliction and famine, however, had well nigh sapped her strength and by the time those plaintive voices ceased to cry for bread and meat, her willing hands were too weakened to do much for us.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I remember being awakened while there by two little arms clasped suddenly and tightly about me, and I heard Frances say,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"No, she shall not go with you.  You want to kill her!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>Near us stood Keseberg, the man with the bushy hair.  In limping past our sleeping place, he had stopped and said something about taking me away with him, which so frightened my sisters that they believed my life in danger, and would not let me move beyond their reach while we remained in that dungeon.  We spoke in whispers, suffered as much as the starving children in Joseph's time, and were more afraid than Daniel in the den of lions.</P>
187.sgm:<P>How long the storm had lasted, we did not know, nor how many days we had been there.  We were forlorn as children can possibly be, when Simon Murphy, who was older than Frances, climbed to his usual "look out" on the snow above the cabin to see if any help were coming.  He returned to us, stammering in his eagerness:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I seen--a woman--on snow shoes--coming from the other camp!  She's a little woman--like Mrs. Donner.  She is not looking this way--and may pass!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>Hardly had he spoken her name, before we had gathered around him and were imploring him to hurry back and call our mother.  We were too excited to follow him up the steps.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She came to us quickly, with all the tenderness and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>She had watched the fall of snow, and measured its depth; had seen it drift between the two camps making the way so treacherous that no one had dared to cross it until the day before her own coming; then she induced Mr. Clark to try to ascertain if Messrs. Cady and Stone had really got us to the cabins in time to go with the Second Relief.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We did not see Mr. Clark, but he had peered in, taken observations, and returned by nightfall and described to her our condition.</P>
187.sgm:<P>John Baptiste had promised to care for father in her absence.  She left our tent in the morning as early as she could see the way.  She must have stayed with us over night, for I went to sleep in her arms, and they were still around me when I awoke; and it seemed like a new day, for we had time for many cherished talks.  She veiled from us the ghastliness of death, telling us Aunt Betsy and both our little cousins had gone to heaven.  She said Lewis had been first to go, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I asked her if Sammie had cried for bread.  She replied, "No, he was not hungry, for your mother saved two of those little biscuits which the relief party brought, and every day she soaked a tiny piece in water and fed him all he would eat, and there is still half a biscuit left."</P>
187.sgm:<P>How big that half-biscuit seemed to me!  I wondered why she had not brought at least a part of it to us.  While she was talking with Mrs. Murphy, I could not get it out of my mind.  I could see that broken half-biscuit, with its ragged edges, and knew that if I had a piece, I would nibble off the rough points first.  The longer I waited, the more I wanted it.  Finally, I slipped my arm around mother's neck, drew her face close to mine and whispered,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"What are you going to do with the half-biscuit you saved?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I am keeping it for your sick father," she answered, drawing me closer to her side, laying her comforting cheek against mine, letting my arm keep its place, and my fingers stroke her hair.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The two women were still talking in subdued tones, pouring the oil of sympathy into each others' gaping wounds.  Neither heard the sound of feet on the snow <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Each received the same sorrowful answer--"Dead."</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>THE QUEST OF TWO FATHERS--SECOND RELIEF IN DISTRESS--THIRD RELIEF ORGANIZED AT WOODWORTH'S RELAY CAMP--DIVIDES AND ONE HALF GOES TO SUCCOR SECOND RELIEF AND ITS REFUGEES; AND THE OTHER HALF PROCEEDS TO DONNER LAKE--A LAST FAREWELL--A WOMAN'S SACRIFICE.</P>
187.sgm:<P>IT will be remembered that Mr. Eddy, being ill, was dropped out of the First Relief at Mule Springs in February, and sent back to Johnson's Ranch to await the return of this party, which had promised to bring out his family.  Who can realize his distress when it returned with eighteen refugees, and informed him that his wife and little Maggie had perished before it reached the camps, and that it had been obliged to leave his baby there in care of Mrs. Murphy?</P>
187.sgm:<P>Disappointed and aggrieved, the afflicted father immediately set out on horseback, hoping that he would meet his child on the trail in charge of the Second Relief, which it seemed reasonable to expect would follow closely in the footsteps of the first.  He was accompanied by Mr. Foster, of the Forlorn Hope, who had been forced to leave his own little son at the camp in charge of Mrs. Murphy, its grandmother.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On the evening of the second day, the two reached <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>After much deliberation, Woodworth and his men agreed to start out next morning for the mountain camps, but tried to dissuade Mr. Eddy from accompanying them on account of his apparent depleted condition.  Nevertheless both he and Mr. Foster remained firm, and with the party, left the relay camp, crossed the low foothills and encamped for the night on the Yuba River.</P>
187.sgm:<P>At dusk, Woodworth was surprised by the arrival of two forlorn-looking individuals, whom he recognized as members of the Reed-Greenwood Relief, which had gone up the mountain late in February and was overdue.  The two implored food for themselves, also for their seven companions and three refugees, a mile back on the trail, unable to come farther.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When somewhat refreshed, they were able to go more into detail, and the following explanation of their plight was elicited:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"One of our men, Clark, is at Donner's Camp, and the other nine of us left the cabins near the lake on the third of March, with seventeen of the starving emigrants.  The storm caught us as we crossed the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Woodworth and two followers went at once with provisions to the near-by sufferers, and later brought them down to camp.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Messrs. Reed and Greenwood stated that every available means had been tried by them to get the seventeen unfortunates well over the summit before the great storm reached its height.  They said the physical condition of the refugees was such, from the very start, that no persuasion, nor warnings, nor threats could quicken their feeble steps.  All but three of the number were children, with their hands and feet more or less frozen.  Worse still, the caches on which the party had relied for sustenance had been robbed by wild animals, and the severity of the storm had forced all into camp, with nothing more than a breastwork of brush to shelter them.  Mrs. Elisabeth Graves died the first night, leaving to the party the hopeless task of caring for her emaciated babe in arms, and her three other children between the ages of nine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>When Messrs. Reed and Greenwood closed their account of the terrible physical and mental strain their party had undergone, "Mr. Woodworth asked his own men of the relay camp, if they would go with him to rescue those unfortunates at `Starved Camp,' and received an answer in the negative."<ANCHOR ID="n14-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1">Extract from Thornton's work.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>The following morning there was an earnest consultation, and so hazardous seemed the trail and the work to be done that for a time all except Eddy and Foster refused to go farther.  Finally, John Stark stepped forward, saying,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Gentlemen, I am ready to go and do what I can for those sufferers, without promise of pay."</P>
187.sgm:<P>By guaranteeing three dollars per day to any man who would get supplies to the mountain camps, and fifty dollars in addition to each man who should carry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0022" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ARRIVAL OF THE CARAVAN AT SANTA FE</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ON THE BANKS OF THE SACRAMENTO RIVER</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:a helpless child, not his own, back to the settlement, Mr. Eddy<ANCHOR ID="n14-2">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-2">Thornton saw Eddy pay Hiram Miller the promised fifty dollars after the Third Relief reached the settlement.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>Meanwhile how fared it at Starved Camp?  Mr. and Mrs. Breen being left there with their own five suffering children and the four other poor, moaning little waifs, were tortured by situations too heart-rending for description, too pitiful to seem true.  Suffice it to relate that Mrs. Breen shared with baby Graves the last lump of loaf sugar and the last drops of tea, of that which she had denied herself and had hoarded for her own babe.  When this was gone, with quivering lips she and her husband repeated the litany and prayed for strength to meet the ordeal, --then, turning to the unburied dead, they resorted to the only means left to save the nine helpless little ones.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When Mr. Eddy and party reached them, they found much suffering from cold and crying for "something to eat," but not the wail which precedes delirium and death.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This Third Relief Party settled for the night upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:the snow near these refugees, who had twice been in the shadow of doom; and after giving them food and fire, Mr. Eddy divided his force into two sections.  Messrs. Stark, Oakley, and Stone were to remain there and nurture the refugees a few hours longer, then carry the small children, and conduct those able to walk to Mule Springs, while Eddy and three companions should hasten on to the cabins across the summit.<ANCHOR ID="n14-3">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-3">See McGlashan's "History of the Donner Party."</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>Section Two, spurred on by paternal solicitude, resumed travel at four o'clock the following morning, and crossed the summit soon after sunrise.  The nearer they approached camp, the more anxious Messrs. Eddy and Foster became to reach the children they hoped to find alive.  Finally, they rushed ahead, as we have seen, to the Murphy cabin.  Alas! only disappointment met them there.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Even after Mrs. Murphy had repeated her pitiful answer, "Dead," the afflicted fathers stood dazed and silent, as if waiting for the loved ones to return.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Eddy was the first to recover sufficiently for action.  Presently Simon Murphy and we three little girls were standing on the snow under a clear blue sky, and saw Hiram Miller and Mr. Thompson coming toward camp.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The change was so sudden it was difficult to understand what had happened.  How could we realize that we had passed out of that loathsome cabin, never to return; or that Mrs. Murphy, too ill to leave her bed, and Keseberg, too lame to walk, by reason of a deep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Nor could we know our mother's anguish, as she stepped aside to arrange with Mr. Eddy for our departure.  She had told us at our own camp why she would remain.  She had parted from us there and put us in charge of men who had risked much and come far to do a heroic deed.  Later she had found us, abandoned by them, in time of direst need, and in danger of an awful death, and had warmed and cheered us back to hope and confidence.  Now, she was about to confide us to the care of a party whose leader swore either to save us or die with us on the trail.  We listened to the sound of her voice, felt her good-bye kisses, and watched her hasten away to father, over the snow, through the pines, and out of sight, and knew that we must not follow.  But the influence of her last caress, last yearning look of love and abiding faith will go with us through life.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The ordeal through which she passed is thus told by Colonel Thornton, after a personal interview with Mr. Eddy:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mrs. George Donner was able to travel.  But her husband was in a helpless condition, and she would not consent to leave him while he survived.  She expressed her solemn and unalterable purpose, which no danger or peril could change, to remain and perform for him the last sad office of duty and affection.  She manifested, however, the greatest solicitude for her children, and informed Mr. Eddy that she had fifteen hundred dollars in silver, all of which she would give him, if he would save the lives of the children.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He informed her that he would not carry out one hundred dollars of all she had, but that he would save her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>After remaining about two hours, Mr. Eddy informed Mrs. Donner that he was constrained by force of circumstances to depart.  It was certain that George Donner would never rise from the miserable bed upon which he had lain down, worn by toil and wasted by famine.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A woman was probably never before placed in circumstances of greater or more peculiar trial; but her duty and affection as a wife triumphed over all her instincts of reason.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The parting scene between parent and children is represented as being one that will never be forgotten, so long as life remains or memory performs its functions.</P>
187.sgm:<P>My own emotions will not permit me to attempt a description which language, indeed, has not power to delineate.  It is sufficient to say that it was affecting beyond measure; and that the last words uttered by Mrs. Donner in tears and sobs to Mr. Eddy were, "Oh, save, save my children!"</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>SIMON MURPHY, FRANCES, GEORGIA, AND I TAKEN FROM THE LAKE CABINS BY THE THIRD RELIEF--NO FOOD TO LEAVE--CROSSING THE SNOW--REMNANT OF THE SECOND RELIEF OVERTAKEN--OUT OF THE SNOW--INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY--JOHNSON'S RANCH--THE SINCLAIR HOME--SUTTER'S FORT.</P>
187.sgm:<P>WHEN we left the lake cabin, we still wore the clothing we had on when we came from our tent with Messrs. Cady and Stone.  Georgia and I were clad in quilted petticoats, linsey dresses, woollen stockings, and well-worn shoes.  Our cloaks were of a twilled material, garnet, with a white thread interwoven, and we had knitted hoods to match.  Frances' clothing was as warm; instead of cloak, however, she wore a shawl, and her hood was blue.  Her shoes had been eaten by our starving dog before he disappeared, and as all others were buried out of reach, mother had substituted a pair of her own in their stead.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Foster took charge of Simon Murphy, his wife's brother, and Messrs. Eddy and Miller carried Georgia and me.  Mr. Eddy always called Georgia "my girl," and she found great favor in his eyes, because in size and looks she reminded him of his little daughter who had perished in that storm-bound camp.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Our first stop was on the mountain-side overlooking the lake, where we were given a light meal of bread and meat and a drink of water.  When we reached the head of the lake, we overtook Nicholas Clark and John Baptiste who had deserted father in his tent and were hurrying toward the settlement.  Our coming was a surprise to them, yet they were glad to join our party.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After our evening allowance of food we were stowed snugly between blankets in a snow trench near the summit of the Sierras, but were so hungry that we could hardly get to sleep, even after being told that more food would do us harm.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Early next morning we were again on the trail.  I could not walk at all, and Georgia only a short distance at a time.  So treacherous was the way that our rescuers often stumbled into unseen pits, struggled among snow drifts, and climbed icy ridges where to slip or fall might mean death in the yawning depth below.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Near the close of this most trying day, Hiram M. Miller put me down, saying wearily, "I am tired of carrying you.  If you will walk to that dark thing on the mountain-side ahead of us, you shall have a nice lump of loaf sugar with your supper."</P>
187.sgm:<P>My position in the blanket had been so cramped that my limbs were stiff and the jostling of the march had made my body ache.  I looked toward the object to which he pointed.  It seemed a long way off; yet I wanted the sugar so much that I agreed to walk.  The wind was sharp.  I shivered, and at times could hardly lift my feet; often I stumbled and would have fallen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Nor did I waken happy next morning.  I had not forgotten the broken promise, and was lonesome for mother.  When Mr. Miller told me that I should walk that day as far as Frances and Georgia did, I refused to go forward, and cried to go back.  The result was that he used rough means before I promised to be good and do as he commanded.  His act made my sister Frances rush to my defence, and also, touched a chord in the fatherly natures of the other two men, who summarily brought about a more comfortable state of affairs.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When we proceeded on our journey, I was again carried by Mr. Miller in a blanket on his back as young children are carried by Indians on long journeys.  My head above the blanket folds bobbed uncomfortably at every lurch.  The trail led up and down and around snow peaks, and under overhanging banks that seemed ready to give way and crush us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>At one turn our rescuers stopped, picked up a bundle, and carefully noted the fresh human foot prints in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The spoons and smaller articles were now stowed away in the pockets of our rescuers for safekeeping on the journey; and while we little girls dressed ourselves in the fresh underwear, and watched our discarded garments disappear in the fire, the dresses, which mother had planned should come to us later in life, were remodelled for immediate use.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Thompson pulled out the same sharp pocket-knife, coarse black thread, and big-eyed needle, which he had used the previous evening, while making Frances a pair of moccasins out of his own gauntlet gloves.  With the help of Mr. Eddy, he then ripped out the sleeves, cut off the waists about an inch above the skirt gathers, cut slits in the skirts for arm-holes, and tacked in the sleeves.  Then, with mother's wish in mind, they put the dove-colored silk on Frances, the light brown on Georgia, and the dark coffee-brown on me.  Pleats and laps in the skirt bands were necessary to fit them to our necks.  Strings were tied around our waists, and the skirts tacked up until they were of walking length.  These ample robes served for cloaks as well as dresses for we could easily draw our hands <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Before noon we overtook and passed Messrs. Oakley, Stone, and Stark, having in charge the following refugees from Starved Camp: Mr. and Mrs. Patrick Breen and their five children; Mary Donner, Jonathan Graves, Nancy Graves, and baby Graves.  Messrs. Oakley and Stone were in advance, the former carrying Mary Donner over his shoulder; and the latter baby Graves in his arms.  Great-hearted John Stark had the care of all the rest.  He was broad-shouldered and powerful, and would stride ahead with two weaklings at a time, deposit them on the trail and go back for others who could not keep up.  These were the remnant of the hopeful seventeen who had started out on the third of March with the Second Relief, and with whom mother had hoped we children would cross the mountains.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It was after dark when our own little party encamped at the crossing of the Yuba River.  The following morning Lieutenant Woodworth and attendants were found near-by.  He commended the work done by the Third Relief; yet, to Mr. Eddy's dismay, he declared that he would not go to the rescue of those who were still in the mountains, because the warmer weather was melting the snow so rapidly that the lives of his men would be endangered should he attempt to lead them up the trail which we had just followed down.  He gave our party rations, and said that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Our party did not resume travel until ten o'clock that morning; nevertheless, we crossed the snow line and made our next camp at Mule Springs.  There we caught the first breath of springtide, touched the warm, dry earth, and saw green fields far beyond the foot of that cold, cruel mountain range.  Our rescuers exclaimed joyfully, "Thank God, we are at last out of the snow, and you shall soon see Elitha and Leanna, and have all you want to eat."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our allowance of food had been gradually increased and our improved condition bore evidence of the good care and kind treatment we had received.  We remained several days at Mule Springs, and were comparatively happy until the arrival of the unfortunates from Starved Camp, who stretched forth their gaunt hands and piteously begged for food which would have caused death had it been given to them in sufficient quantities to satisfy their cravings.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When I went among them I found my little cousin Mary sitting on a blanket near Mr. Oakley, who had carried her thither, and who was gently trying to engage her thoughts.  Her wan face was wet with tears, and her hands were clasped around her knee as she rocked from side to side in great pain.  A large woollen stocking covered her swollen leg and frozen foot which had become numb and fallen into the fire one night at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Her brother Isaac had died at that awful camp and she herself would not have lived had Mr. Oakley not been so good to her.  He was now comforting her with the assurance that he would have the foot cared for by a doctor as soon as they should reach the settlement; and she, believing him, was trying to be brave and patient.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We all resumed travel on horseback and reached Johnson's Ranch about the same hour in the day.  As we approached, the little colony of emigrants which had settled in the neighborhood the previous Autumn crowded in and about the two-roomed adobe house which Mr. Johnson had kindly set apart as a stopping place for the several relief parties on their way to and from the mountains.  All were anxious to see the sufferers for whose rescue they had helped to provide.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Survivors of the Forlorn Hope and of the First Relief were also there awaiting the arrival of expected loved ones.  There Simon Murphy, who came with us, met his sisters and brother; Mary Graves took from the arms of Charles Stone, her slowly dying baby sister; she received from the hands of John Stark her brother Jonathan and her sister Nancy, and heard of the death of her mother and of her brother Franklin at Starved Camp.  That house of welcome became a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Before our short stay at the Johnson Ranch ended, we little girls had a peculiar experience.  While standing in a doorway, the door closed with a bang upon two of my fingers.  My piercing cry brought several persons to the spot, and one among them sat down and soothed me in a motherly way.  After I was myself again, she examined the dress into which Messrs. Thompson and Eddy had stitched so much good-will, and she said:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Let me take off this clumsy thing, and give you a little blue dress with white flowers on it."  She made the change, and after she had fastened it in the back she got a needle and white thread and bade me stand closer to her so that she might sew up the tear which exposed my knees.  She asked why I looked so hard at her sewing, and I replied,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"My mother always makes little stitches when she sews my dresses."</P>
187.sgm:<P>No amount of pulling down of the sleeves or straightening out of the skirt could conceal the fact that I was too large for the garment.  As I was leaving her, I heard her say to a companion, "That is just as good for her, and this will make two for my little girl."  Later in the day Frances and Georgia parted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Oh, the balm and beauty of that early morning when Messrs. Eddy, Thompson, and Miller took us on horseback down the Sacramento Valley.  Under the leafy trees and over the budding blossoms we rode.  Not rapidly, but steadily, we neared our journey's end.  Toward night, when the birds had stopped their singing and were hiding themselves among bush and bough, we reached the home of Mr. and Mrs. John Sinclair on the American River, thirty-five miles from Johnson's Ranch and only two and a half from Sutter's Fort.</P>
187.sgm:<P>That hospitable house was over-crowded with earlier arrivals, but as it was too late for us to cross the river, sympathetic Mrs. Sinclair said that she would find a place for us.  Having no bed to offer, she loosened the rag-carpet from one corner of the room, had fresh straw put on the floor, and after supper, tucked us away on it, drawing the carpet over us in place of quilts.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We had bread and milk for supper that night, and the same good food next day.  In the afternoon we were taken across the river in an Indian canoe.  Then we followed the winding path through the tules to Sutter's Fort, where we were given over to our half-sisters by those heroic men who had kept their pledge to our mother and saved our lives.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>ELITHA AND LEANNA--LIFE AT THE FORT--WATCHING THE COW PATH--RETURN OF THE FALLON PARTY--KESEBERG BROUGHT IN BY THEM--FATHER AND MOTHER DID NOT COME.</P>
187.sgm:<P>THE room in which Elitha and Leanna were staying when we arrived at Sutter's Fort was part of a long, low, single-story adobe building outside the fortification walls, and like others that were occupied by belated travellers, was the barest and crudest structure imaginable.  It had an earthen floor, a thatched roof, a batten door, and an opening in the rear wall to serve as window.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We little ones were oblivious of discomfort, however.  The tenderness with which we were received, and the bewildering sense of safety that we felt, blinded us even to the anguish and fear which crept over our two sisters, when they saw us come to them alone.  How they suffered I learned many years later from Elitha, who said, in referring to those pitiful experiences:</P>
187.sgm:<P>After Sister Leanna and I reached the Fort with the First Relief, we were put in different families to await our parents; but as soon as the Second Relief was expected, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I went in, kindled the fire, and gave you supper.  I had a bed of shavings hemmed in with poles for father and mother.  They did not come.  We five lay down upon it, and Sister Leanna and I talked long after you three were asleep, wondering what we should do.  You had no clothes, except those you wore, so the next day I got a little cotton stuff and commenced making you some.  Sister Leanna did the cooking and looked after you, which took all her time.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The United States Army officer at the Fort had left orders at Captain Sutter's store, that we should be furnished with the necessaries of life, and that was how we were able to get the food and few things we had when you arrived.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Messrs. Eddy and Thompson did not tell my sisters that they had no expectation of father's getting through, and considered mother's chance very slight, but went directly to the Fort to report to Colonel McKinstry and to Mr. Kerns what their party had accomplished, and to inform them that Lieutenant Woodworth was about to break camp and return to the settlement instead of trying to get relief to the four unfortunates still at the mountain camp.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Very soon thereafter, a messenger on horseback from the Fort delivered a letter to Lieutenant Woodworth, and a fourth party was organized, "consisting of John Stark, John Rhodes, E Coffeymier, John Del, Daniel Tucker, Wm. Foster, and Wm. Graves.  But this party proceeded no farther than Bear Valley on account of the rapidly melting snows."<ANCHOR ID="n16-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n16-1">Thornton.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>The return of the party after its fruitless efforts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Neither fear nor misgivings troubled us little ones the morning we started out, hand in hand, to explore our new surroundings.  We had rested, been washed, combed, and fed, and we believed that father and mother would soon come to us.  Everything was beautiful to our eyes.  We did not care if "the houses did look as if they were made of dry dirt and hadn't anything but holes for windows."  We watched the mothers sitting on the door sills or on chairs near them laughing as they talked and sewed, and it seemed good to see the little children at play and hear them singing their dolls to sleep.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The big gate to the adobe wall around Captain Sutter's home was open, and we could look in and see many white-washed huts built against the back and side walls, and a flag waving from a pole in front of the large house, which stood in the middle of the ground.  Cannons like those we had seen at Fort Laramie were also peeping out of holes in these walls, and an Indian soldier and a white soldier were marching to and fro, each holding a gun against his shoulder, and it pointing straight up in the air.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Often we looked at each other and exclaimed, "How good to be here instead of up in the snow."  It was hard to go back to the house when sisters called us.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0024" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ELITHA DONNER (MRS. BENJAMIN WILDER)<HSEP>LEANNA DONNER (MRS. JOHN APP)</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MARY DONNER<HSEP>GEORGE DONNER, NEPHEW OF CAPT. DONNER</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Once a tall, freckle-faced boy, with very red hair, edged up to where I was watching others at play, and whispered:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"See here, little gal, you run get that little tin cup of yourn, and when you see me come out of Mrs. Wimmer's house with the milk pail on my arm, you go round yonder to the tother side of the cow-pen, where you'll find a hole big enough to put the cup through.  Then you can watch me milk it full of the nicest milk you ever tasted.  You needn't say nothing to nobody about it.  I give your little sister some last time, and I want to do the same for you.  I hain't got no mother neither, and I know how it is."</P>
187.sgm:<P>When I got there he took the cup and, as he sat down under old Bossy, smilingly asked if I liked lots of foam.  I told him I did.  He milked a faster, stronger stream, then handed me the cup, full as he could carry it, and a white cap of foam stood above its rim.  I tasted it and told him it was too good to drink fast, but he watched me until it was all gone.  Then, saying he didn't want thanks, he hurried me back to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Every day or two a horse all white with lather and dripping with sweat would rush by, and the Indian or white man on his back would guide him straight to Captain Kerns' quarters, where he would hand out papers and letters.  The women and children would flock thither to see if it meant news for them.  Often they were disappointed and talked a great deal about the tediousness of the Mexican War and the delays of Captain Fre&acute;mont's company.  They wanted the war to end, and their men folk back so that they could move and get to farming before it should be too late to grow garden truck for family use.</P>
187.sgm:<P>While they thus anxiously awaited the return of their soldiers, we kept watch of the cow-path by which we had reached the Fort; for Elitha had told us that we might "pretty soon see the relief coming."  She did not say, "with father and mother"; but we did, and she replied, "I hope so."</P>
187.sgm:<P>We were very proud of the new clothes she had made us; but the first time she washed and hung them out to dry, they were stolen, and we were again destitute.  Sister Elitha thought perhaps strange Indians took them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>In May, the Fallon party arrived with horses laden with many packs of goods, but their only refugee was Lewis Keseberg, from the cabin near the lake.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It was evening, and some one came to our door, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>ORPHANS--KESEBERG AND HIS ACCUSERS--SENSATIONAL ACCOUNTS OF THE TRAGEDY AT DONNER LAKE--PROPERTY SOLD AND GUARDIAN APPOINTED--KINDLY INDIANS--"GRANDPA"--MARRIAGE OF ELITHA.</P>
187.sgm:<P>THE report of our affliction spread rapidly, and the well-meaning, tender-hearted women at the Fort came to condole and weep with us, and made their children weep also by urging, "Now, do say something comforting to these poor little girls, who were frozen and starved up in the mountains, and are now orphans in a strange land, without any home or any one to care for them."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Such ordeals were too overwhelming.  I would rush off alone among the wild flowers to get away from the torturing sympathy.  Even there, I met those who would look at me with great serious eyes, shake their heads, and mournfully say, "You poor little mite, how much better it would be if you had died in the mountains with your dear mother, instead of being left alone to struggle in this wicked world!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>This would but increase my distress, for I did not want to be dead and buried up there under the cold, deep snow, and I knew that mother did not want me to be there either.  Had she not sent me away to save <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Intense excitement and indignation prevailed at the Fort after Captain Fallon and other members of his party gave their account of the conditions found at the mountain camps, and of interviews had with Keseberg, whom they now called, "cannibal, robber, and murderer."  The wretched man was accused by this party, not only of having needlessly partaken of human flesh, and of having appropriated coin and other property which should have come to us orphaned children, but also of having wantonly taken the life of Mrs. Murphy and of my mother.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Some declared him crazy, others called him a monster.  Keseberg denied these charges and repeatedly accused Fallon and his party of making false statements.  He sadly acknowledged that he had used human flesh to keep himself from starving, but swore that he was guiltless of taking human life.  He stated that Mrs. Murphy had died of starvation soon after the departure of the "Third Relief," and that my mother had watched by father's bedside until he died.  After preparing his body for burial, she had started out on the trail to go to her children.  In attempting to cross the distance from her camp to his, she had strayed and wandered about far into the night, and finally reached his cabin wet, shivering, and grief-stricken, yet determined to push onward.  She had brought nothing with her, but told him where to find money to take to her children in the event of her not reaching them.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Keseberg's vehement and steadfast denial of the crimes of which he stood accused saved him from personal violence, but not from suspicion and ill-will.  Women shunned him, and children stoned him as he walked about the fort.  <HI REND="italics">The California Star</HI>
187.sgm: printed in full the account of the Fallon party, and blood-curdling editorials increased public sentiment against Keseberg, stamping him with the mark of Cain, and closing the door of every home against him.<ANCHOR ID="n17-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1">See Appendix for account of the Fallon party, quoted from Thornton's work.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>Elitha and Leanna tried to keep us little ones in ignorance of the report that our father's body was mutilated, also of what was said about the alleged murder of our mother.  Still we did hear fragments of conversations which greatly disturbed us, and our sisters found it difficult to answer some of our questions.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, more disappointments for us were brewing at the fort.  Fallon's party demanded an immediate settlement of its claim.   It had gone up the mountains under promise that its members should have not only a <HI REND="italics">per diem</HI>
187.sgm: as rescuers, but also one half of all the property that they might bring to the settlement, and they had brought valuable packs from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Keseberg did not deny that this money belonged to the Donners, but asserted that it was his intention and desire to take it to the Donner children himself as he had promised their mother.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Eventually, it was agreed that the Donner properties should be sold at auction, and that "one half of the proceeds should be handed over to Captain Fallon to satisfy the claims of his party, and the other half should be put into the hands of a guardian for the support of the Donner children."  Hiram Miller was appointed guardian by Alcalde Sinclair.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding these plans for our well-being, unaccountable delays followed, making our situation daily more trying.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Elitha was not yet fifteen years of age, and Leanna was two years younger.  They had not fully recovered from the effects of their long privations and physical sufferings in the mountains; and the loss of parents and means of support placed upon them responsibilities greater than they could carry, no matter how bravely they strove to meet the situation.  "How can we provide for ourselves and these little sisters?" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>They had no way of communicating with our friends in Eastern States, and the women at the Fort could ill afford to provide longer for us, since their bread winners were still with Fre&acute;mont, and their own supplies were limited.  Finally, my two eldest sisters were given employment by different families in exchange for food, which they shared with us; but it was often insufficient, and we little ones drifted along forlornly.  Sometimes home was where night overtook us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Often, we trudged to the <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
187.sgm:<P>The pond also, with its banks of flowers, winding path, and dimpling waters, had charms for us until one day's experience drove us from it forever.  We three were playing near it when a joyous Indian girl with a bundle of clothes on her head ran down the bank to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia and I saw her lean over and stretch out her hand as far as she could reach; saw the poppies drift just beyond her finger tips; saw her lean a little farther, then slip, head first, into the deep water.  Such shrieks as terrified children give, brought the Indian girl quickly to our aid.  Like a flash, she tossed the bundle from her head, sprang into the water, snatched Frances as she rose to the surface, and restored her to us without a word.  Before we had recovered sufficiently to speak, she was gone.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Not a soul was in sight when we started toward the Fort, all unconscious of what the inevitable "is to be" was weaving into our lives.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We were too young to keep track of time by calendar, but counted it by happenings.  Some were marked with tears, some with smiles, and some stole unawares upon us, just as on that bright June evening, when we did not find our sisters, and aimlessly followed others to the little shop where a friendly-appearing elderly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"Grandpa, please give us a little piece of meat."</P>
187.sgm:<P>He looked at us, and inquired whose children we were, and where we lived.  Upon learning, he turned about, lifted a liver from a wooden peg and cut for each, a generous slice.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On our way out, a neighbor intercepted us and said that we should sleep at her house that night and see our sisters in the morning.  She also gave us permission to cook our pieces of liver over her bed of live coals.  Frances offered to cook them all on her stick, but Georgia and I insisted that it would be fun for each to broil her own.  I, being the smallest child, was given the shortest stick, and allowed to stand nearest the fire.  Soon the three slices were sizzling and browning from the ends of three willow rods, and smelled so good that we could hardly wait for them to be done.  Presently, however, the heat began to burn my cheeks and also the hand that held the stick.  The more I wiggled about, the hotter the fire seemed, and it ended in Frances having to fish my piece of liver from among the coals, burned in patches, curled over bits of dying embers, and pretty well covered with ashes, but she knew how to scrape them away, and my supper was not spoiled.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our neighbor gave us breakfast next morning and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Tears came also to the child-wife's eyes as she clasped her arms about us soothingly, assuring us that she was still our sister, and would care for us.  Nevertheless, she and her husband slipped away soon on horseback, and we were told that we were to stay at our neighbor's until they returned for us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This marriage, which was solemnized by Alcalde John Sinclair on the fourth of June, 1847, was approved by the people at the Fort.  Children were anxious to play with us because we had "a married sister and a new brother."  Women hurried through noon chores to meet outside, and some in their eagerness forgot to roll down their sleeves before they began to talk.  One triumphantly repeated to each newcomer the motherly advice which she gave the young couple <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Then the speakers wondered how soon Elitha would be back.  Would she take us three to live with her on that cattle ranch twenty-five miles by bridle trail from the Fort?  And would peace and happiness come to us there?</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>"GRANDMA"--HAPPY VISITS--A NEW HOME--AM PERSUADED TO LEAVE IT.</P>
187.sgm:<P>WE were still without Elitha, when up the road and toward the Fort came a stout little old woman in brown.  On one arm she carried a basket, and from the hand of the other hung a small covered tin pail.  Her apron was almost as long as her dress skirt, which reached below her ankles, yet was short enough to show brown stockings above her low shoes.  Two ends of the bright kerchief which covered her neck and crossed her bosom were pinned on opposite sides at the waist-line.  A brown quilted hood of the same shade and material as her dress and apron concealed all but the white lace frill of a "grandma cap," which fastened under her chin with a bow.  Her dark hair drawn down plain to each temple was coiled there into tiny wheels, and a brass pin stuck through crosswise to hold each coil in place.  Her bright, speaking eyes, more brown than gray, gave charm to a face which might have been pretty had disease not marred it in youth.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As she drew near, her wonderful eyes looked into our faces and won from our lips a timid "Good morning, grandma."</P>
187.sgm:<P>That title, which we had been taught to use when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Seeing how thin and hungry we looked she gave each a piece of buttered bread before going with us to our neighbor's house, where she left the food, with instructions, in broken English, that it was for us three little girls who had called her "grandma," and that we must not be given too much at a time.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When next grandma came she took puny Georgia home with her, and left me hugging the promise that I also should have a visit, if I would await my turn patiently.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Who can picture my delight when Georgia got back and told me of all she had seen?  Cows, horses, pigs; and chickens, but most thrilling of all was about the cross old sheep, which would not let her pass if she did not carry a big stick in sight.  Still, I should not have been so eager to go, nor so gleeful on the way, had I known that the "good-bye" kiss I gave my sister Frances at parting that day, would be the last kiss in five long years.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandma was as happy as I.  She could understand English better than she could speak it, and in answering my questions, explained largely by signs.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Then she laughed, and explained that he was thus accomplished because she and Christian Brunner, her husband, and Jacob, her brother-in-law, had come from a place far away across lands and big waters where most of the people spoke both French and German and that they had always talked to Courage in one or the other of these languages.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As soon as we got into the house she opened the back door and called "Jacob!"  Then turning, she took a small cup of rennet clabber from the shelf, poured a little cream over it, put a spoon in it, and set it on the table before me.  While I was eating, a pleasant elderly man came in and by nods, motions, and words, partly English and partly something else, convinced me that he liked little girls, and was glad to see me.  Then of a sudden, he clasped his hands about my waist and tossed me in the air as father did before his hand was hurt, and when he wanted to startle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Everything about the house was as Georgia had described.  Even the big stick she had used to keep the old sheep from butting her over was behind the door where she had left it.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When Christian Brunner got home from the Fort, grandma had supper nearly ready, and he and I were friends the instant we looked into each other's face; for he was "grandpa" who had given us the liver the evening we did not find our sisters.  He had gone home that night and said: "Mary, at the Fort are three hungry little orphan girls.  Take them something as soon as you can.  One child is fair, two are dark.  You will know them by the way they speak to you."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandpa had now hastened home to hold me on his lap and to hear me say that I was glad to be at his house and intended to help grandma all I could for being so good as to bring me there.  After I told how we had cooked the liver and how good it tasted, he wiped his eyes and said:  "Mine child, when you little ones thanked me for that liver, it made me not so much your friend as when you called me `grandpa.'"</P>
187.sgm:<P>As time went on, grandma declared that I helped her a great deal because I kept her chip-box full, shooed the hens out of the house, brought in the eggs, and drove the little chicks to bed, nights.  I don't recollect that I was ever tired or sleepy, yet I know that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>It was after one of these reminders of a new day that I saw Leanna.  I don't know when or how she came, but I missed Frances and Georgia the more because I wanted them to share our comforts.  Nevertheless a strange feeling of uneasiness crept over me as I noticed, later, that grandpa lingered and that the three spoke long in their own tongue, and glanced often toward me.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Finally grandpa and Jakie went off in the wagon and grandma also disappeared, but soon returned, dressed for a trip to the Fort, and explained that she had heard that Georgia was sick and she would take me back and bring her in my place.  I had known from the beginning that I was to stay only a little while, yet I was woefully disturbed at having my enjoyment so abruptly terminated.  My first impulse was to cry, but somehow, the influence of her who under the soughing pines of the Sierras had told me that "friends do not come quickly to a cry-baby child" gave me courage, and I looked up into the dear old face before me and with the earnestness of an anxious child asked, "Grandma, why can't you keep two of us?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>She looked at me, hesitated, then replied, "I will see."  She kissed away my fears and rode off on old Lisa.  I did not know that she would ride farther than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Leanna washed the dishes and did the other work before she joined me in watching for grandma's return.  At last she came in sight and I ran up the road craning my neck to see if Georgia were really behind on old Lisa's back, and when I saw her pinched face aglow with smiles that were all for me, I had but one wish, and that was to get my arms around her.</P>
187.sgm:<P>One chair was large enough to hold us both when we got into the house, and the big clock on the wall with long weights reaching almost to the floor and red roses painted around its white face, did not tick long before we were deaf to its sound, telling each other about the doings of the day.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She knew more than I, who listened intently as she excitedly went on:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Me and Frances started to find you this morning, but we wasn't far when we met Jacob in the wagon, and he stopped and asked us where we was going.  We told him.  Then he told us to get in by him.  But he didn't come this way, just drove down to the river and some men lifted us out and set us in a boat and commenced to paddle across the water.  I knew that wasn't the way, and I cried and cried as loud as I could cry, and told them I wanted to go to my little sister Eliza, and that I'd tip the boat over if they did not take me back; and one man said, `It's too bad!  It ain't right to part the two littlest ones.'  And they told me if I'd sit still and stop crying they would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"Then they taked us to that house where we sleeped under the carpet the night we didn't get to the Fort.  Don't you remember?  Well, lots of people was there and talked about us and about father and mother, and waited for grandma to come.  Pretty soon grandma come, and everybody talked, and talked.  And grandma told them she was sorry for us, and would take you and me if she could keep Leanna to help her do the work.  When I was coming away with grandma, Frances cried like everything.  She said she wanted to see you, and told the people mother said we should always stay together.  But they wouldn't let her come.  They've gived her to somebody else, and now she is their little girl."</P>
187.sgm:<P>We both felt sorry for Frances, and wished we could know where she was and what she was doing.</P>
187.sgm:<P>While we were talking, grandma kept busily at work, and sometimes she wiped her face with the corner of her apron, yet we did not think of her as listening, nor of watching us, nor would we ever have known it, had we not learned it later from her own lips, as she told others the circumstances which had brought us into her life.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Some days later Georgia and I were playing in the back yard when Leanna appeared at the door and called out in quick, jubilant tones: "Children, run around to the front and see who has come!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>True enough, hitched to a stake near the front door <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Elitha could not persuade Leanna or Georgia to go with her, nor was I inclined to do so when she and grandma first urged me.  But I began to yield as the former told me she was lonesome; wanted at least one little sister to live with her, and that if I would be that one, I should have a new dress and a doll with a face.  Then my new brother settled the matter by saying: "Listen to me.  If you'll go, you shall have the pinto colt that I told you about, a little side saddle of your own, and whenever you feel like it, you can get on it and ride down to see all the folks."  The prospects were so alluring that I went at once with Leanna, who was to get me ready for the journey.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Leanna did not share my enthusiasm.  She said I was a foolish little thing, and declared I would get lonesome on such a big place so far away; that the colt would kick me if I tried to go near it, and that no one ever made saddles for colts.  She was not so gentle as usual when she combed my hair and gave my face a right hard scrubbing with a cloth and whey, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding these discouragements, I took my clothes, which were tied up in a colored handkerchief, kissed them all good-bye, and rode away sitting behind my new brother on the spotted horse, really believing that I should be back in a few days on a visit.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>ON A CATTLE RANCH NEAR THE COSUMNE RIVER--"NAME BILLY"--INDIAN GRUB FEAST.</P>
187.sgm:<P>WE left the Fort and grandma's house far behind, and still rode on and on.  The day was warm, the wild flowers were gone, and the plain was yellow with ripening oats which rustled noisily as we passed through, crowding and bumping their neighborly heads together.  Yet it was not a lonesome way, for we passed elk, antelope, and deer feeding, with pretty little fawns standing close to their mothers' sides.  There were also sleek fat cattle resting under the shade of live oak trees, and great birds that soared around overhead casting their shadows on the ground.  As we neared the river, smaller birds of brighter colors could be heard and seen in the trees along the banks where the water flowed between, clear and cold.</P>
187.sgm:<P>All these things my sister pointed out to me as we passed onward.  It was almost dark before we came in sight of the adobe ranch house.  We were met on the road by a pack of Indian dogs, whose fierce looks and savage yelping made me tremble, until I got into the house where they could not follow.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The first weeks of my stay on the ranch passed quickly.  Elitha and I were together most of the time.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:She made my new dress and a doll which was perfection in my eyes, though its face was crooked, and its pencilled hair was more like pothooks than curls.  I did not see much of her husband, because in the mornings he rode away early to direct his Indian cattle-herders at the <HI REND="italics">rodeos</HI>
187.sgm:<P>The pinto colt he had promised me was, as Leanna had said, "big enough to kick, but too small to ride," and I at once realized that my anticipated visits could not be made as planned.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Occasionally, men came on horseback to stay a day or two, and before the summer was over, a young couple with a small baby moved into one part of our house.  We called them Mr. and Mrs. Packwood and Baby Packwood.  The mother and child were company for my sister, while the husbands talked continually of ranches, cattle, hides, and tallow, so I was free to roam around by myself.</P>
187.sgm:<P>In one of my wanderings I met a sprightly little Indian lad, whose face was almost as white as my own.  He was clad in a blue and white shirt that reached below his knees.  Several strings of beads were around his neck, and a small bow and arrow in his hand.  We stopped and looked at each other; were pleased, yet shy about moving onward or speaking.  I, being the larger, finally asked,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"What's your name?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>To my great delight, he answered, "Name, Billy."</P>
187.sgm:<P>While we were slowly getting accustomed to each <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The squaw set the basket on the ground, reached up, and carefully lifted from a board laid across the top of the hopper, several pans of clabbered milk, which she poured into the basket.  Instead of putting the pans back, she tilted them up against the hopper, squatted down in front and with her slim forefinger, scraped down the sides and bottom of each pan so that she and Billy could scoop up and convey to their mouths, by means of their three crooked fingers, all that had not gone into the basket.  Then she licked her improvised spoon clean and dry; turned her back to her burden; replaced the band on her forehead; and with the help of her stick, slowly raised herself to her feet and quietly walked away, Billy after her.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Next day I was on watch early.  My kind friend, the choreman, let me go with him when he carried the lye from the hopper to the soap fat barrel.  Then he put more ashes on the hopper and set the pans of milk in place for the evening call of Billy and his companion.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He pointed out the <HI REND="italics">rancheria</HI>
187.sgm: by the river where the Indian herders lived with others of their tribe, among <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PAPOOSES IN BICKOOSES</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SUTTER'S MILL, WHERE MARSHALL DISCOVERED GOLD, JANUARY 19, 1848</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Billy and I might never have played together as we did, if my brother-in-law had not taken his wife to San Francisco and left me in the care of Mr. and Mrs. Packwood.  Their chief aim in life was to please their baby.  She was a dear little thing when awake, but the house had to be kept very still while she slept, and they would raise a hand and say, "Hu-sh!" as they left me, and together tip-toed to the cradle to watch her smile in her sleep.  I had their assurance that they would like to let me hold her if her little bones were not so soft that I might break them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>They were never unkind or cross to me.  I had plenty to eat, and clean clothes to wear, but they did not seem to realize how I yearned for some one to love.  So I went to Mr. Choreman.  He told me about the antelope that raced across the ranch before I was up; of the elk, deer, bear, and buffalo he had shot in his day; and of beaver, otter, and other animals that he had trapped along the rivers.  Entranced with his tales I became as excited as he, while listening to the dangers he had escaped.</P>
187.sgm:<P>One day he showed me a little chair which I declared was the cunningest thing I had ever seen.  It had a high, straight back, just like those in the house, only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Gradually, Billy spent more time near the ranch house, and learned many of my kind of words, and I picked up some of his.  Before long, he discovered that he could climb up on the hopper, and then he helped me up.  But I could not crook my fingers into as good a spoon as he did his, and he got more milk out of the pan than I.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We did not think any one saw us, yet the next time we climbed up, we found two old spoons stuck in a crack, in plain sight.  After we got through using them, I wiped them on my dress skirt and put them back.  Later, I met Mr. Choreman, who told me that he had put the spoons there because I was too nice a little girl to eat as Billy did, or to dip out of the same pan.  I was ashamed and promised not to do so again, nor to climb up there with him.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As time passed, I watched wistfully for my sister's return, and thought a great deal about the folks at grandma's.  I tried to remember all that had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I still feel the wondrous thrill, and bid my throbbing heart beat slower, when I recall the joy that tingled through every part of my being on that evening when, unexpectedly, Leanna and Georgia came to the door.  Yet, so short-lived was that joy that the event has always seemed more like a disquieting dream than a reality; for they came at night and were gone in the morning, and left me sorrowing.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A few months ago, I wrote to Georgia (now Mrs. Babcock), who lives in the State of Washington, for her recollections of that brief reunion, and she replied:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Before we went to Sonoma with Grandma Brunner in the Fall of 1847, Leanna and I paid you a visit.  We reached your home at dusk.  Mr. McCoon and Elitha were not there.  We were so glad to meet, but our visit was too short.  You and I were given a cup of bread and milk and sent to bed.  Leanna ate with the grown folks, who, upon learning that we had only come to say good-bye, told her we must for your sake get away before you awoke next morning.  We arose and got started early, but had only gone a short distance when we heard your pitiful cry, begging us to take you with us.  Leanna hid her face in her apron, while a man caught you and carried you back.  I think she cried all the way home.  It was so hard to part from you.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Packwood carried me into the house, and both he and his wife felt sorry for me.  My head ached and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"Come look, see squaw, papoose! Me go, you go?" exclaimed Billy excitedly one soft gray morning after I had regained my spirits.  I turned in the direction he pointed and saw quite a number of squaws trudging across an open flat with babies in bickooses, and larger children scampering along at various paces, most of them carrying baskets.</P>
187.sgm:<P>With Mrs. Packwood's permission, Billy and I sped away to join the line.  I had never been granted such a privilege before, and had no idea what it all meant.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As we approached the edge of the marsh, the squaws walked more slowly, with their eyes fixed upon the ground.  Every other moment some of them would be down, digging in the earth with forefinger or a little stick, and I soon learned they were gathering bulbs about a quarter of an inch in thickness and as large around as the smaller end of a woman's thimble.  I had seen the plants growing near the pond at the fort, but now the bulbs were ripe, and were being gathered for winter use.  In accordance with the tribal custom, not a bulb was eaten during harvest time.  They grew so far apart and were so small that it took a long while to make a fair showing in the baskets.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When no more bulbs could be found, the baskets were put on the ground in groups, and the mothers <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>That done, the squaws built a roaring fire, and one of them untied a bundle of hardwood sticks which she had brought for the purpose, and stuck them around under the fuel in touch with the hottest parts of the burning mass.  When the ends glowed like long-lasting coals, the waiting crowd snatched them from their bed and rushed into the low thicket which grew in the marsh.  I followed with my fire-brand, but, not knowing what to do with it, simply watched the Indians stick theirs into the bushes, sometimes high up, sometimes low down.  I saw them dodge about, and heard their shouts of warning and their peals of laughter.  Then myriads of hornets came buzzing and swarming about.  This frightened me so that I ran back to where the brown babies were cooing in safety.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Empty-handed, but happy, they at length returned, and though I could not understand anything they were saying, their looks and actions betokened what a good time they had had.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Years later, I described the scene to Elitha, who assured me that I had been highly favored by those Indians for they had permitted me to witness their annual "Grub Feast."  The Piutes always use burning fagots to drive hornets and other stinging insects from their nests, and they also use heat in opening <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>With the first cold snaps of winter, my feet felt the effect of former frost bites, and I was obliged to spend most of my time within doors.  Fortunately Baby Packwood had grown to be quite a frolicsome child.  She was fond of me, and her bones had hardened so that there was no longer danger of my breaking them when I lifted her or held her on my lap.  Her mother had also discovered that I was anxious to be helpful, pleased when given something to do, and proud when my work was praised.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was quite satisfied with my surroundings, when, unexpectedly, Mr. McCoon brought my sister back, and once more we had happy times together.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>I RETURN TO GRANDMA--WAR RUMORS AT THE FORT--LINGERING HOPE THAT MY MOTHER MIGHT BE LIVING--AN INDIAN CONVOY--THE BRUNNERS AND THEIR HOME.</P>
187.sgm:<P>THE Spring of 1848 was at hand when my brother-in-law said to me, "Grandma Brunner wants you to come back to her; and if you would like to go, I'll take you to the Fort, as soon as the weather changes, and leave you with the people who are getting ready to move north and are willing to take you with them to Sonoma, where grandma now lives."</P>
187.sgm:<P>The storm was not over, but the day was promising, when my bundle of clothes was again on the pommel of the saddle, and I ready to begin my journey.  I was so excited that I could hardly get around to say good-bye to those who had gathered to see me off.  We returned by the same route that we had followed out on that warm June day, but everything seemed different.  The catkins on the willows were forming and the plain was green with young grass.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As we neared the Fort we passed a large camp of fine-looking Indians who, I was told, were the friendly Walla-Wallas, that came every spring to trade ponies, and otter, and beaver-skins with Captain Sutter for provisions, blankets, beads, gun caps, shot, and powder.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>A large emigrant wagon stood near the adobe house where my new brother-in-law drew rein.  Before dismounting, he reached back, took me by the arm and carefully supported me as I slid from the horse to the ground.  I was so stiff that I could hardly stand, but he led me to the door where we were welcomed by a good-natured woman, to whom he said,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Well, Mrs. Lennox, you see I've brought the little girl.  I don't think she'll be much trouble, unless she talks you to death."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then he told her that I had, during the ride, asked him more questions than a man six times his size could answer.  But she laughed, and "lowed" that I couldn't match either of her three boys in asking questions, and then informed him that she did not "calculate on making the move until the roads be dryer and the weather settled."  She promised, however, that I should have good care until I could be handed over to the Brunners.  After a few words with her in private Perry McCoon bade me good-bye, and passed out of my life forever.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was now again with emigrants who had crossed the plains in 1846, but who had followed the Fort Hall route and so escaped the misfortunes that befell the Donner Party.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Supper over, Mrs. Lennox made me a bed on the floor in the far corner of the room.  I must have fallen asleep as soon as my head touched the pillow, for I remember nothing more until I was awakened by voices, and saw the candle still burning and Mrs. Lennox and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Lennox, we've got to get out of here right away, for I heard tell at the store before I come up that there's bound to be an Injun outbreak.  Them savages from Sonora are already on their way up, and they'll kill and scalp every man, woman, and child they can ketch, and there's nothing to keep them from ketching us, if we stay at this here little fort any longer."</P>
187.sgm:<P>I lay awake a long while.  I did not dare call out because I imagined some of those Indians might have got ahead of the rest and be sneaking up to our house at that very moment.  I wondered where I could hide if they should climb through the window, and I felt that Georgia would never know what had become of me, if they should kill and scalp me.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As soon as Mrs. Lennox stirred in the morning, I ran to her and had a good cry.  She threatened all sorts of things for the man who had caused me such torture, and declared that he believed everything he heard.  He did not seem to remember how many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>After breakfast her younger boys wanted to see the Walla-Wallas, and took me along.  A cold breath from the Sierra Nevadas made me look up and shiver.  Soon Captains Sutter and Kern passed us, the former on his favorite white horse, and the latter on a dark bay.  I was delighted to catch a glimpse of those two good friends, but they did not know it.  They had been to see the Indian ponies, and before we got to the big gate, they had gone in and the Walla-Wallas were forming in line on both sides of the road between the gate and the front of the store.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Only two Indians at a time were allowed to enter the building, and as they were slow in making their trades, we had a good chance to see them all.  The men, the boys, and most of the women were dressed in fringed buckskin suits and their hands and faces were painted red, as the Sioux warriors of Fort Laramie painted their cheeks.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The Lennox boys took greatest interest in the little fellows with the bows and arrows, but I could not keep my eyes from the young princess, who stood beside her father, the chief.  She was all shimmering with beads.  They formed flowers on her moccasins; fringed the outer seams of her doeskin trousers and the hem of her tunic; formed a stripe around her arm holes and her belt; glittered on a band which held in place the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>We started back over ground where my little sisters and I had wandered the previous Spring.  The people whom I remembered had since gone to other settlements, and strangers lived in the old huts. I could not help looking in as we passed, for I still felt that mother might not be dead.  She might have come down the mountain alone and perhaps I could find her.  The boys, not knowing why I lagged behind, tried to hurry me along; and finally left me to go home by myself.  This, not from unkindness, but rather love of teasing, and also oblivion of the vain hope I cherished.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mrs. Lennox let me dry the dishes for her after the noon meal, then sent me to visit the neighbor in the next house, while she should stow her things in the wagon and get ready for the journey.  I loved this lady<ANCHOR ID="n20-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: in the next house as soon as she spoke to me, and I was delighted with her baby, who reached out his little arms to have me take him, and raised his head for me to kiss his lips.  While he slept, his mother sewed and talked with me.  She had known my parents on the plains, and now let me sit at her feet, giving me her workbox, that I might look at its bobbins of different-colored thread and the pretty needle-book.  When I told her that the things looked a little like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n20-1">Mrs. Andrew J. Grayson, wife of the well-known ornithologist, frequently referred to as the "Audubon of the West."</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>Only she, the baby, and I sat down to tea, yet she said that she was glad she had company, for baby's papa was away with Captain Fre&acute;mont, and she was lonesome.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After I learned that she would have to stay until he came back, I was troubled, and told what I had heard in the night.  She assured me that those in charge of the Fort heard every day all that was going on for miles and miles around, and that if they should learn that fighting Indians were coming, they would take all the white people and the good Indians into the fort, and then shoot the bad ones with the cannon that peeped through its embrasures.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The dainty meal and her motherly talk kept me a happy child until I heard the footsteps of the Lennox boys.  I knew they were coming for me, and that I should have to sleep in that dark room where I had been so afraid.  Quickly slipping from my chair, under the table, and hiding behind my new friend's dress skirt, I begged her not to let them know where I was, and please, to let me stay with her all night.  I listened as she sent the boys back to tell their mother that she would keep me until morning, adding that she would step in and explain matters after she put her baby to bed.  Before I went to sleep she heard me say my prayers and kissed me good-night.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>When I awoke next morning, I was not in her house, but in Mrs. Lennox's Wagon, on the way to Sonoma.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The distance between the Fort and Sonoma was only about eighty miles, yet the heavy roads and the frequent showers kept us on the journey more than a week.  It was still drizzling when we reached the town and Mrs. Lennox learned where the Brunners lived.  I had been told that they would be looking for me, and I expected to go to them at once.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As we approached the west bank of the creek, which winds south past the town, we could see the branches on the trees in grandma's dooryard swaying.  Yet we could not reach there, because a heavy mountain storm had turned a torrent into the creek channel, washed away the foot bridge, and overflowed the low land.  Disappointed, we encamped on high ground to wait for the waters to recede.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Toward evening, Jackie gathering his cows on the opposite side, noticed our emigrant wagon, and oxen, and as he drew nearer recognized Mrs. Lennox.  Both signalled from where they stood, and soon he descried me, anxious to go to him.  He, also, was disappointed at the enforced delay, and returned often to cheer us, and to note the height of the water.  It seemed to me that we had been there days and days, when a Mission Indian on a gray pony happened to come our way, and upon learning what was wanted, signalled that he would carry me over for a Mexican silver dollar.  Jakie immediately drew the coin from his pocket and held it between thumb and forefinger, high above his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Quickly the Indian dismounted, looked his pony over carefully, cinched the blanket on tighter, led him to the water's edge, and turned to me.  I shuddered, and when all was ready, drew near the deep flowing current tremblingly, yet did not hesitate; for my loved ones were beyond, and to reach them I was willing to venture.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The Indian mounted and I was placed behind him.  By sign, he warned me not to loosen my hold, lest I, like the passing branches, should become the water's prey.  With my arms clasped tightly about his dusky form, and his elbows clamped over them, we entered the stream.  I saw the water surge up around us, felt it splash over me!  Oh, how cold it was!  I held my breath as we reached the deepest part, and in dread clung closer to the form before me.  We were going down stream, drifting past where Jakie stood!  How could I know that we were heading for the safe slope up the bank where we landed?</P>
187.sgm:<P>The Indian took his dollar with a grunt of satisfaction, and Jakie bade me wave to the friends I had left behind, as he put me on old Lisa's back and hurried off to grandma, Leanna, and Georgia, waiting at the gate to welcome me home.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia had a number of patches of calico and other trinkets which she had collected for me, and offered them as soon as we had exchanged greetings, then eagerly conducted me about the place.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Grandma was more energetic and busier than at the Fort, and I could only talk with her as she worked, but there was so much to see and hear that before night fall my feet were heavy and my brain was weary.  However, a good sleep under the roof of those whom I loved was all the tonic I needed to prepare me for a fair start in the new career, and grandma's assurance, "This be your home so long as you be good," filled me with such gladness that, childlike, I promised to be good always and to do everything that should be required of me.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Most of the emigrants in and around the Pueblo of Sonoma were Americans from the western frontiers of the United States.  They had reached the province in the Summer or early Autumn of 1846, and for safety had settled near this United States Army post.  Here they had bought land and made homes within neighboring distance of each other and begun life anew in simple, happy, pioneer fashion.  The Brunners were a different type.  They had immigrated from Switzerland and settled in New Orleans, Louisiana, when young, and by toil and economy had saved the snug sum of money which they brought to invest in California enterprises.</P>
187.sgm:<P>They could speak and read French and German, and had some knowledge of figures.  Being skilled in the preparation of all the delicacies of the meat market, and the products of the dairy, they had brought across the plains the necessary equipment for both branches of business, and had already established a butcher shop <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Jakie was busy and useful at both places, but grandpa was owner of the shop, and grandma of the dairy.  Her hand had the cunning of the Swiss cheesemaker, and the deftness of the artist in butter moulding.  She was also an experienced cook, and had many household commodities usually unknown to pioneer homes.  They were thus eminently fitted for life in a crude new settlement, and occupied an important place in the community.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A public road cut their land into two unequal parts.  The cattle corrals and sheds were grouped on one side of the road, and the family accommodations on the other.  Three magnificent oaks and a weird, blackened tree-trunk added picturesqueness to the ground upon which the log cabin and outbuildings stood.  The trim live oak shaded the adobe milk-room and smoke-house, while the grand old white oak spread its far-reaching boughs over the curbed well and front dooryard.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The log cabin was a substantial three-roomed structure. Its two outer doors opened with latch strings and were sawed across just above the middle, so that the lower sections might be kept closed against the straying pigs and fowls, while the upper part remained open to help the windows opposite give light and ventilation.  The east end formed the ample store-room with shelves for many stages of ripening cheese.  The west end served as sleeping apartment for all except Jakie.  The large middle room was set apart as kitchen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PLAZA AND BARRACKS OF SONOMA</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ONE OF THE OLDEST BUILDINGS IN SONOMA</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The adobe chimney, which formed part of the partition between the living and the sleeping apartment, gave a huge fireplace to each. From the side of the one that cheered the living room, swung a crane worthy of the great copper cheese kettle that hung on its arm.  In tidy rows on the chimney shelf stood bottles and boxes of medicine, two small brass kettles, and six bright candlesticks with hoods, trays, and snuffers to match.  On the wide hearth beneath were ranged the old-fashioned three-legged iron pots, dominated by the large round one, used as a bake oven.  Hovering over the fire sat the iron tea-kettle, with its slender throat and pointed lips, now warmed to song by the blazing logs, now rattling its lid with increasing fervor.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A long table with rough redwood benches around it, a few straight-backed chairs against the wall, and Jakie's half-concealed bed, in the far corner, constituted the visible furnishings of this memorable room, which was so spick and span in German order and cleanliness, that even its clay floor had to be sprinkled in regular spots and rings before being swept.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It was under the great oaks that most of the morning work was done.  There the pails and pans were washed and sunned, the meats chopped, the sausage made, head-cheese moulded, ham and bacon salted, and the lard tried out over the out-door fires.  Among <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Grandma, stimulated by the success of her mixing and moulding, and elated by the profit she saw in it, was often too happy and bustling to remember how young we were, or that we got tired, or had worries of our own to bear.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our small troubles, however, were soon forgotten, when we could slip away for a while to the lovely playhouse which Leanna had secretly made for us in an excavation in the back yard.  There we forgot work, used our own language, and played we were like other children; for we owned the beautiful cupboard dug in the wall, and the pieces of Delft and broken glass set in rows upon the shelves, also the furniture, made of stumps and blocks of wood, and the two bottles standing behind the brush barricade to act as sentries in case of danger during our absence.</P>
187.sgm:<P>One stolen visit to that playhouse led me into such disgrace, that grandma did not speak to me the rest of the day, and told Jakie all about it.</P>
187.sgm:<P>In the evening, when no one else was near, he called me to him.  I obeyed with downcast head.  Putting his hand under my chin, and turning my face up, he made me look straight into his eyes, as he asked,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Who broke dat glass cup vat grandma left on die <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I tried to turn my eyes down, but he would not let me, and I faltered, "The chicken knocked it off, --but he left the door open so it could get in."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then, he raised his other hand, shook his finger, and in awe-inspiring tone continued: "Yes, I be sure die chicken do dat, but vot for you tell grandma dat Heinrick do dat?  Der debil makes peoples tell lies, and den he ketch sie for his fire, und he vill ketch you, if you do dat some more.  Gott, who you mutter telled you 'bout, will not love you.  I will not love you, if you do dat some more.  I be sorry for you, because I tought you vas His little girl, and mine little girl."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Jakie must have spent much time in collecting so many English words, and they were effective, for before he got through repeating them to me, I was as heart-sore and penitent as a child could be.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After he had forgiven me, he sent me to grandma, later to acknowledge my wrong to Hendrik, and before I slept, I had to tell God what a bad child I had been, and ask Him to make me good.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I had promised to be very careful and to try never to tell another lie, and I had been unhappy enough to want to keep the promise.  But, alas, my sympathy for Jakie led me into more trouble, and it must have been on Sunday too, for he was not working, but sitting reverently under the tree with his elbows upon a table, and his cheeks resting in the hollows of his hands.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia and I standing a short distance from him, listened very intently.  Not hearing a single English word, and not understanding many of the German, I became deeply concerned and turning to her asked,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Are n't you awful sorry for poor Jakie?  There he is, reading to God in German, and God can't understand him.  I'm afraid Jakie won't go to heaven when he dies."</P>
187.sgm:<P>My wise little sister turned upon me indignantly, assuring me that "God sees everybody and understands everybody's talk."  To prove the truth of her statement, she rushed to the kitchen and appealed to grandma, who not only confirmed Georgia's words, but asked me what right I had to believe that God was American only, and could not understand good German people when they read and spoke to Him?  She wanted to know if I was not ashamed to think that they, who had loved me, and been kind to me would not go to Heaven as well as I who had come to them a beggar?  Then she sent me away by myself to think of my many sins; and I, weeping, accepted banishment from Georgia, lest she should learn wickedness from me.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia was greatly disturbed on my account, because she belived I had wilfully misrepresented God, and that He might not forgive me.  When Jakie learned what had happened, he declared that I had spoken like a child, and needed instruction more than punishment.  So for the purpose of broadening my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>It was about this time, that Leanna confided to me that she was homesick for Elitha, and she would go to her very soon.  She said that I must not object when the time came, for she loved her own sister just as much as I did mine, and was as anxious to go to Elitha as I had been to come to Georgia.  She had been planning several weeks, and knew of a family with which she could travel to Sutter's Fort.  Later, when she collected her things to go away, she left with us a pair of beautifully knit black silk stockings, marked near the top in fine cross-stitch in white, "D," and under that "5."  The stockings had been our mother's.  She had knit them herself and worn them.  Georgia gave one to me and kept the other.  We both felt that they were almost too sacred to handle.  They were our only keepsakes.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Later, Georgia found a small tin box in which mother had kept important papers.  Recently, when referring to that circumstance, Georgia said: "Grandma for a long time had used it for a white-sugar box, and kept it on a shelf so high that we could see it only when she lifted it down; and I don't think we took our eyes from it until it was put back.  We felt that it was too valuable for us ever to own.  One day, I found it thrown <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>MORAL DISCIPLINE--THE HISTORICAL PUEBLO OF SONOMA--SUGAR PLUMS.</P>
187.sgm:<P>GRANDMA often declared that she loved me, and did not want to be too severe; but, for fear that I had learned much wickedness from the little Indians with whom I had played after I left her at the Fort, she should watch me very closely herself, and also have Georgia tell her whenever she should see me do wrong.  Consequently, for a while after I reached Sonoma, I was frequently on the penitential bench, and was as often punished for fancied misdoings as for real ones.  Yet, I grant that grandma was warranted in being severe the day that she got back from town before I was ready for her.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She had left us with the promise that she would bring us something nice if we would be good children and do certain work that she had planned.  After we had finished the task, we both became restless, wondered how soon she would come back, and what we could do next to keep from being lonesome.  Then I espied on the upper shelf the cream-colored sugar bowl, with the old-fashioned red roses and black foliage on its cover and sides.  Grandma had occasionally given <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"There, you know I did n't want you to do it, and now you will get a good whipping for breaking grandma's best sugar bowl!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>I replied loftily that I was not afraid, because I would ask God to mend it for me.  She did not think He would do it, but I did.  So I matched the broken edges and put it on the chair, knelt down before it and said "Please" when I made my request.  I touched the pieces very carefully, and pleaded more earnestly each time that I found them unchanged.  Finally, Georgia, watching at the door, said excitedly, "Here comes grandma!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>I arose, so disappointed and chagrined that I scarcely heard her as she entered and spoke to me.  I fully believed that He would have mended that cover if she had remained away a little longer; nevertheless, I was so indignant at Him for being so slow about it, that I stood unabashed while Georgia told all that had happened.  The whipping I got did not make much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Later, when I was called from my hiding-place, grandma saw that I had been very miserable, and she insisted upon knowing what I had been thinking about.  Then I told her, reluctantly, that I had talked to God and told Him I did not think that He was a very good Heavenly Father, or He would not let me get into so much trouble; that I was mad at Him, and did n't believe He knew how to mend dishes.  She covered her face with her apron and told me, sobbingly, that she had expected me to be sorry for getting down her sugar bowl and for breaking its cover; that I was so bad that I would "surely put poor old grandma's gray hair in her grave, who had got one foot there already and the other on the brink."</P>
187.sgm:<P>This increased my wretchedness, and I begged her to live just a little longer so that I might show her that I would be good.  She agreed to give me another trial and ended by telling me about the "beautiful, wicked angel who had been driven out of paradise, and spends his time coaxing people to be bad, and then remembers them, and after they die, takes them on his fork and pitches them back and forth in his fire."  Jakie had told me his name and also the name of his home.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Toward evening, my head ached, and I felt so ill that I crept close to grandma and asked sorrowfully if she thought the devil meant to have me die that night, and then take me to his hell.  At a glance, she saw that I suffered, and drew me to her, pillowed my head against <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding my shortcomings, the Brunners were very willing to keep me, and strove to make a "Schweitzer child" of me, dressed me in clothes modelled after those which grandma wore when she was small, and by verse and legend filled my thoughts with pictures of their Alpine country.  I liked the German language, learned it rapidly and soon could help to translate orders.  Those which pleased grandma best were from the homes of Mr. Jacob Leese, Captain Fitch, Major Prudon, and General Vallejo; for their patronage influenced other distinguished Spanish families at a distance to send for her excellent cheese and fancy pats of butter.  Yet, with equal nicety, she filled the orders that came from the messroom of the officers of our own brave boys in blue, and always tried to have a better kerchief and apron on the evenings that officers and orderly rode out to pay the bills.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Visitors felt more than a passing interest in us two little ones, for accounts of the sufferings of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Marked attentions were also shown us by officers and soldiers from the post.  The latter gathered in the evenings at the Brunner home for social intercourse.  Some played cards, checkers, and dominoes, or talked and sang about " <HI REND="italics">des Deutschen Vaterland</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Nor were these odd bits of knowledge all we gained from those soldier friends.  They taught us the alphabet, how to spell easy words, and then to form letters with pencil.  They explained the meaning of fife and drum calls which we heard during the day, and in mischievous earnestness, declared that they, the best fighters of Colonel Stephenson's famous regiment of New York Volunteers, had pledged their arms and legs to our defence, and had only come to see if we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OLD MEXICAN CARRETA</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RESIDENCE OF JUDGE A. L. RHODES, A TYPICAL CALIFORNIA HOUSE OF THE BETTER CLASS IN 1849</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>On those evenings when grandma visited the sick, or went from home on errands, we children were tucked away early in our trundle bed.  There, and by ourselves, we spoke of mother and the mountains.  Not infrequently, however, our thoughts would be recalled to the present by loud, wailing squeak-squawk, squeak-squawks.  As the sound drew nearer and became shriller, we would put our fingers in our ears to muffle the dismal tones, which we knew were only the creakings of the two wooden wheels of some Mexican <HI REND="italics">carreta</HI>
187.sgm:, laboriously bringing passengers to town, or perhaps a cruder one carrying hides to the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
187.sgm:, or possibly supplies to adjacent <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
187.sgm:<P>We rarely stayed awake long enough to say all we wished about the Spanish people.  Their methods of travel, modes of dress, and fascinating manners were sources of never-ending discussion and interest.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>We had seen princely dons of many leagues ride by in state; dashing <HI REND="italics">caballeros</HI>
187.sgm: resplendent in costumes of satin and velvet, on their way to sing beneath the windows of dark-eyed <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
187.sgm:; and had stood close enough to the wearers of embroidered and lace-be-decked small clothes, to count the scallops which closed the seams of their outer garments, and to hear the faint tinkle of the tiny silver bells which dangled from them.  We had feasted our eyes on magnificently robed <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;oras</HI>
187.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Such frequent object-lessons made the names and surroundings of those grandees easy to remember.  Some lived leagues distant, some were near neighbors in that typical Mexican Pueblo of Sonoma, whose adobe walls and red-tiled roofs nestled close to the foot of the dimpled hills overlooking the valley from the north, and whose historic and romantic associations were connected with distinguished families who still called it home.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Foremost among the men was General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, by whom Sonoma was founded in 1834, upon ground which had twice been consecrated to Mission use.  First by Padre Altemera, who had, in 1823, established there the church and mission building of San Francisco Solano.  And four years later, after hostile Indians had destroyed the sacred structures, Padre Fortune, under protection of Presidio Golden Gate, blessed the ashes and rebuilt the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The Vallejo home covered the largest plot of ground on the north side of the plaza, and its great house had a hospitable air, despite its lofty watchtower, begrimed by sentry holes, overlooking every part of the valley.</P>
187.sgm:<P>During the period that its owner was <HI REND="italics">commandante</HI>
187.sgm:<P>A historic souvenir greatly prized by Americans in town and valley was the flag pole, which in Sonoma's infancy had been hewn from the distant mountain forest, and brought down on pack animals by mission Indians under General Vallejo's direction.  It originally stood in the centre of the plaza, where it was planted with sacred ceremonials, and where amid ringing cheers of " <HI REND="italics">Viva Mexico</HI>
187.sgm:!" it first flung to the breeze that country's symbolical banner of green, white, and red.  Through ten fitful years it loyally waved those colors; then followed its brief humiliation by the Bear Flag episode, and early redemption by order of Commodore Sloat, who sent thither an American flag-bearer to invest it with the Stars and Stripes.  Thereafter, a patriotic impulse suggested its removal to the parade <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>But the Mexican landmark which appealed to me most pathetically was the quaint rustic belfry which stood solitary in the open space in front of the Mission buildings.  Its strong columns were the trunks of trees that looked as though they might have grown there for the purpose of shouldering the heavy cross-beams from which the chimes hung.  Its smooth timbers had been laboriously hewn by hand, as must be the case in a land where there are no saw mills.  The parts that were not bound together with thongs of rawhide, were held in place by wooden pegs.  The strips of rawhide attached to the clappers dropped low enough for me to reach, and often tempted me to make the bells speak.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mission padres no longer dwelt in the buildings, but shepherds from distant folds came monthly to administer to the needs of this consecrated flock.  Then the many bells would call the faithful to mass, and to vespers, or chime for the wedding of favored sons and daughters.  Part of them would jingle merrily for notable christenings; but one only would toll when death whitened the lips of some distinguished victim; and again,while the blessed body was being borne to its last resting-place.</P>
187.sgm:<P>During one of my first trips to town, Jakie and I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:were standing by grandpa's shop on the east side of the plaza, when suddenly those bells rang out clear and sweet, and we saw the believing glide out of their homes in every direction and wend their way to the church.  The high-born ladies had put aside their jewels, their gorgeous silks and satins, and donned the simpler garb prescribed for the season of fasts and prayer.  Those to the manor born wore the picturesque <HI REND="italics">rebosa</HI>
187.sgm: of fine lace or gauzy silk, draped over the head and about the shoulders; while those of humbler station made the shawl serve in place of the <HI REND="italics">rebosa</HI>
187.sgm:<P>The town seemed deserted, and the church filled, as we started homeward, I skipping ahead until we reached a shop window where I waited for Jakie and asked him if he knew what those pretty little things were that I saw on a shelf, in big short-necked glass jars.  Some were round and had little "stickers" all over them, and others looked like birds' eggs, pink, yellow, white, and violet.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>He told me the round ones were sugar plums, and the egg-shaped had each an almond nut under its bright crust; that they were candies that had come from France in the ships that had brought the Spanish people their fine clothes; and that they were only for the rich, and would make poor little girls' teeth ache, if they should eat them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Yet, after I confided to him how mother had given me a lump of loaf sugar each night as long as it lasted, and how sorry we both felt when there was no more, he led me into the shop and let me choose two of each kind and color from the jars.  We walked faster as I carried them home.  Jakie and grandma would not take any, but she gave Georgia and me each a sugar plum and an egg, and saved the rest for other days when we should be good children.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>GOLD DISCOVERED--"CALIFORNIA IS OURS"--NURSING THE SICK--THE U.S. MILITARY POST--BURIAL OF AN OFFICER.</P>
187.sgm:<P>IN the year 1848, while the settlers and their families were contentedly at work developing the resources of the country, the astounding cry, "Gold discovered!" came through the valley like a blight, stopping every industry in its wake.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Excited men, women, and children rushed to town in quest of information.  It was furnished by Alcalde Boggs and General Vallejo, who had been called away privately two weeks earlier, and had just returned in a state of great enthusiasm, declaring that gold, "in dust, grains, and chunks had been discovered at Coloma, not more than a day's journey from Sutter's Fort."</P>
187.sgm:<P>"How soon can we get there?" became the all-absorbing problem of eager listeners.  The only hotel-keeper in the town sold his kettles and pans, closed his house, and departed.  Shopkeepers packed most of their supplies for immediate shipment, and raised the price of those left for home trade.  Men and half-grown boys hardly took time to collect a meagre <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Crowds from San Francisco came hurrying through, some stopping barely long enough to repeat the maddening tales that had started them off to the diggings with pick and shovel.  Each new rumor increased the exodus of gold-seekers; and by the end of the first week in August, when the messenger arrived with the long-hoped-for report of the ratification of the treaty of peace, and General Mason's proclamation officially announcing it, there were not enough men left in the valley, outside of the barracks, to give a decent round of cheers for the blessing of peace.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandpa brought the news home, "California is ours.  There will be no more war, no more trouble, and no more need of soldiers."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Yet the women felt that their battles and trials had just begun, since they had suddenly become the sole home-keepers, with limited ways and means to provide for the children and care for the stock and farms.  Discouragement would have rendered the burdens of many too heavy to carry, had not "work together," and "help your neighbor," become the watchwords of the day.  No one was allowed to suffer through lack of practical sympathy.  From house to house, by turns, went the strong to help the weak to bridge their troubles.  They went, not with cheering words only, but with something in store for the empty cupboards <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Grandma was in such demand that she had little time to rest; for there was not a doctor nor a "medicine shop" in the valley, and her parcels of herbs and knowledge of their uses had to serve for both.  Nights, she set her shoes handy, so that she could dress quickly when summoned to the sick; and dawn of day often marked her home-coming.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia and I were led into her work early, for we were sent with broths and appetizers to the sick on clearings within walking distances; and she would bid us stay a while at different houses where we could be helpful, but to be sure and bring careful reports from each home we entered.  Under such training, we learned much about diseases and the care of the suffering.  Anon, we would find in the plain wooden cradle, a dainty bundle of sweetness, all done up in white, which its happy owner declared grandma had brought her, and we felt quite repaid for our tiresome walk if permitted to hold it a wee while and learn its name.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We were sent together on these missions, in order that we might help each other to remember all that was told us; yet grandma had us take turns, and the one whom she commissioned to make the inquiries was expected to bring the fuller answers.  Sometimes, we played on the way and made mistakes.  Then she would mete out to us that hardest of punishments, namely, that we were not to speak with each other until she <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MISSION SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO, LAST OF THE HISTORIC MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RUINS OF THE MISSION AT SONOMA</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Each cow wore a bell of different tone and knew her own name; yet it was not an easy task, even in pleasant weather, to collect the various strings and get them home on time.  They mixed, and fed with neighbors' cattle on the range, and hid themselves behind clumps of trees and other convenient obstructions.  Often grandma would get her string in by the main trail and have them milked before we could bring up the laggards that provokingly dawdled along, nibbling stray bunches of grass.  When late on the road, we saw coyotes sneaking out for their evening meal and heard the far-away cry of the panther.  But we were not much afraid when it was light enough, so that imagination could not picture them creeping stealthily behind us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our gallant Company C, officered by Captain Bartlett and Lieutenants Stoneman and Stone, was ordered to another post early in August; and its departure caused such universal regret that no one supposed Company H, under Captain Frisbie, could fill its place.  Nevertheless, that handsome young officer soon found his way to the good-will of the people, and when Captain Joe Hooker brought him out to visit grandma's dairy, she, too, was greatly pleased by his soldierly bearing.  After he mentioned that he had heard of her interest in the company which had been called <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Notable among mine was the old darkey cook at headquarters, from whom Georgia and I tried to hide, the first time she waddled out to our house.  She searched us out, saying:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Now, honeys, don't yo be so scared of dis ole Aunt Lucy, 'cos she's done heared Captain Hooker tell lots 'bout yos, and has come to see yos."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Her face was one great smile, and her voice was so coaxing that she had little difficulty in gaining our favor, the more so, as upon leaving, she called back, "I's surely g'wine ter make dat little pie and cake I's promised yos, so yos must n't forgit to come git it."</P>
187.sgm:<P>On one occasion, when I was sent to the post on an errand, she had no pie or cake; but she brought out a primer and said thoughtfully, "I's g'wine ter give yo dis A-B-C book, 'cos I want yo should grow up like quality folks."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Its worn leaves showed that its owner had studied its first few pages only; and when I replied, "Grandma says that I must not take everything that is offered me," she chuckled and continued:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Lawd, honey, yo need n't have no 'punctions 'bout takin' dis yer book, 'cos I could n't learn to read nohow when I was a gal, and I's too ole to now.  Now, I wants yo to be nice; and yo can't, lessen yo can <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I was delighted with the book, and told her so, and hugged it all the way home; for it had a beautiful picture near the back, showing a little girl with a sprinkling pot, watering her garden of stocks, sweet-williams, and hollyhocks.  Her hair was in four long curls, and she had trimming on her dress, apron, and long pantalets.  I was also impressed by the new words which I had heard Aunt Lucy use, "'punctions," and "quality folks."  I repeated them over and over to myself, so that I should be able to tell them to Georgia.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our last visit to Aunt Lucy must have been prearranged, for as she admitted us, she said, "I's mighty glad yos done come so soon, 'cos I been 'specting yos, and mus' take yos right in to de General."</P>
187.sgm:<P>I had never seen a general, and was shy about meeting one, until after she assured me that only cowards and bad men feared him.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We walked down the corridor and entered a large room, where an elderly gentleman in uniform sat writing at a table.  Aunt Lucy stopped beside him, and still holding each by the hand, bowed low, saying, "General Smith, I's brung der two little Donner gals in to see yo, sah"; then she slipped out.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He was as courteous to us as though we were grown ladies, shook hands, asked how we felt, begged us to be seated, and then stepped to a door and called, "Susan! Susan!"  I liked the name.  A sweet voice answered, "Coming!"</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Presently, a pretty dark-eyed Southern lady appeared, who called us "honeys," and "dear little girls."  She sat between us, joining with her husband in earnest inquiries about our stay in the mountains and our home with grandma.  Georgia did most of the talking.  I was satisfied just to look at them and hear them speak.  At the close of our visit, with a knowing look, she took us to see what Aunt Lucy had baked.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The General and she had recently come to pay a last visit to a sick officer, who had been sent from San Francisco with the hope that our milder climate would prolong his life.  They themselves stayed only a short time, and their friend never left our valley.  The day he died, the flag swung lower on the staff.  Soldiers dug his grave on the hillside north of town, and word came from army headquarters that he would be buried on the morrow at midday, with military honors.  Georgia and I wanted to know what military honors were, and as it came time for the funeral, we gathered with others on the plaza, where the procession formed.  We were deeply impressed.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The emigrants uncovered and bowed their heads reverently, but the soldiers in line, with guns reversed, stood erect and motionless as figures in stone, while the bier of the dead was being carried through open ranks to the waiting caisson.  The coffin was covered with a flag, and upon it lay his chapeau, gauntlets, sash, and sword.  His boots, with their toes reversed, hung over the saddle of a riderless horse, led behind the caisson.  The solemn tones of fife and muffled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>REAPING AND THRESHING--A PIONEER FUNERAL--THE HOMELESS AND WAYFARING APPEAL TO MRS. BRUNNER--RETURN OF THE MINERS--SOCIAL GATHERINGS--OUR DAILY ROUTINE--STOLEN PLEASURES--A LITTLE DAIRY-MAID--MY DOGSKIN SHOES.</P>
187.sgm:<P>REAPING and threshing were interesting events to us that summer.  Mission Indians, scantily clothed, came and cut the grain with long knives and sickles, bound it in small sheaves, and stacked it in the back yard opposite grandma's lookout window, then encircled it with a rustic fence, leaving a wide bare space between the stack and the fence, which they swept clean with green branches from live oak trees.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After many days, Mexican drivers brought a band of wild mares to help with the work.  A thick layer of unthreshed grain was pitched on to the bare space surrounding the stack and the mares were driven around and around upon it.  From time to time, fresh material was supplied to meet the needs of the threshers.  And, at given signals from the men on the stack, the mares were turned out for a short rest, also in order to allow the Indians a chance to throw out the waste straw and to heap the loose grain on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>When the threshing was finished, the Indians rested; then prepared their fires, and feasted on the head, feet, and offal of a bullock which grandpa had slaughtered.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Like buzzards came the squaws and papooses to take what was left of the food, and to claim a share from the pile of worn-out clothes which grandma brought out for distribution.  Amid shouts of pleasure, gesticulations, and all manner of begging, the distribution began, and when it ended, our front yard looked as though it were stocked with prize scarecrows.</P>
187.sgm:<P>One big fellow was resplendent in a battered silk hat and a tattered army coat; another was well dressed in a pair of cast-off boots and one of grandma's ragged aprons.  Georgia and I tried to help to sort the things as they should be worn, but our efforts were in vain.  Wrong hands would reach around and get the articles, and both sexes interchanged suits with apparent satisfaction.  Grandma got quite out of patience with one great fellow who was trying to put on a petticoat that his squaw needed, and rushed up to him, jerked it off, gave him a vigorous push, and had the garment on his squaw, before he could do more than grunt.  In the end they went away caring more for the clothes that had been given them than for the money they had earned.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Before the summer waned, death claimed one of our own brave women, and immigrants from far and near <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Her family and nearest neighbors left the house afoot, behind the wagon which carried the plain redwood coffin.  At the cross-road several fell in line, and at the grave was quite a gathering.  A number came in their ox wagons, others on horseback; among them, a father afoot, leading a horse upon whose back sat his wife with an infant in arms and a child behind clinging to her waist; and several old nags, freighted with children, were led by one parent, while the other walked alongside to see that none should lose their balance and fall off.</P>
187.sgm:<P>No minister of the Gospel was within call, so, after the coffin was placed upon the bars above the open grave, and the lid removed, a friend who had crossed the plains with the dead, offered a prayer, and all the listeners said, "Amen."</P>
187.sgm:<P>I might not have remembered all these things, if Georgia and I had not watched over that grave, when all others seemed to have forgotten it.  As we brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>About the middle of October, 1848, the last of the volunteers were mustered out of service, and shortly thereafter the excess of army stores were condemned and sold.  Ex-soldiers had preference over settlers, and could buy the goods at Government rates, plus a small cost of transportation to the Pacific coast.  Grandma profited by the good-will of those whom she had befriended.  They stocked her store-room with salt pork, flour, rice, coffee, sugar, ship-bread, dried fruit, and camp condiments at a nominal figure above what they themselves paid for them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This was fortunate, for the hotel was still closed, and the homeless and wayfaring appealing to grandma, easily persuaded her to make room for them at her table.  The greater the number, the harder she worked, and the more she expected of us.  Although we rose at dawn, and rolled our sleeves high as she rolled hers, and like her, turned up our dress skirts and pinned them behind under our long belt aprons, we could not keep pace with her work.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Nevertheless, we were pleasing reminders of little <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Marvellous accounts of the extent and richness of the gold-diggings were now brought to town by traffickers in provisions for mining-camps.  This good news inspired our home-keepers with renewed courage.  They worked faster while planning the comfort they should enjoy after the return of the absent.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The first to come were the unfortunate, who sought to shake off rheumatism, lung trouble, or the stubborn low-grade fever brought on by working in the water, sleeping on damp ground, eating poorly cooked food, or wearing clothing insufficient to guard against the morning and evening chill.  Few had much to show for their toil and privation; yet, not disheartened, even in delirium, they clamored to hasten back for the precious treasure which seemed ever beckoning them onward.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When wind and weather drove them home, the robust came with bags of gold rolled in their snug packs.  They called each other "lucky dogs," yet looked like grimy beggars, with faces so bewhiskered, and clothing so ragged, or so wonderfully patched, that little children cried when they drew near, and wives threw up their hands, exclaiming, "For the land's sake! can it be?"  Yet each home-comer found glad welcome, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Now each home-cooked dish was a feast for the camp-fed to contrast with their fare at Coloma, Wood's Camp,<ANCHOR ID="n23-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-1">Now Jamestown.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>The homeless, who in the evenings found comfort and cheer around grandma's table, would take out their treasure bags and boxes and pour their dust and grains of gold in separate piles, to show the quality and quantity, then pass the nuggets around that all might see what strange figures nature had moulded in secret up among the rocks and ravines of the Sierras.</P>
187.sgm:<P>One Roman Catholic claimed as his choicest prize a perfectly shaped cross of free gold, which he had cradled from the sands in the bed of a creek.  Another had an image of the Virgin and Child.  A slight stretch of the imagination turned many of the beautifully fretted pieces into miniature birds and other admirable designs for sweetheart brooches.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The exhibition over, each would scrape his hoard back into its receptacle, blow the remaining yellow particles on to the floor so that the table should not show stain, and then settle himself to take his part in relating amusing and thrilling incidents of life in the mining camps.  Not a window was closed, nor a door locked, nor a wink of sleep lost in those days, guarding bags of gold.  "Hands off" was the miners' law, and all knew that death awaited him who should venture to break it.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Heavy purses made willing spenders, and generous impulses were untrammelled.  Nothing could be more gratifying or touching than the respect shown by those homeless men to the pioneer women and children.  They would walk long distances and suffer delays and inconveniences for the privilege of passing a few hours under home influences, and were ever ready to contribute toward pleasures in which all might participate.</P>
187.sgm:<P>There were so few young girls in the community, and their presence was so greatly desired, that in the early winter, Georgia and I attended as welcome guests some of the social gatherings which began at early candle-light, and we wore the little white dresses that were so precious in our eyes.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Before the season was half over, heavy rain was followed by such bitter cold that all the ground and still waters were frozen stiff.  Although we were well muffled, and grandma warmed us up with a drink of hot water and sweetened cream before starting us out after the cows, the frost nipped at our feet until the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GOLD ROCKER, WASHING PAN, AND GOLD BORER</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SCENE DURING THE RUSH TO THE GOLD MINES FROM SAN FRANCISCO IN 1848</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>We were glad to be together, even in misery, and all things considered, were perhaps as useful in our crippled condition as before, for there was enough to keep our hands busy while our feet rested.  Grandma thought she made our work lighter by bringing it to us, yet she came too often for it to seem easy to us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>First, the six brass candlesticks, with hoods, snuffers, and trays had to be brightened; and next, there were the small brass kettles in which she boiled the milk for coffee, to be polished inside and out.  However, we did not dread the kettles much, unless burned, for there was always a spoon in the bottom to help to gather the scrapings, of which we were very fond.</P>
187.sgm:<P>But when she would come with a large pan of dried beans or peas to be picked over quickly, so that she could get them soaked for early cooking, we would measure its contents with critical eyes to make sure that it was not more than we had had the previous day.  By the time we would get to the bottom of the pan, she <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The redeeming work of the day was sorting the dried fruit for sauce or pies.  We could take little nibbles as we handled it, and knew that we should get an extra taste when it was ready for use.  And after she had put the upper crust on the pies, she would generally permit us to make the fancy print around the edges with a fork, and then prick a figure in the centre to let the steam escape while baking.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Sometimes she received a dollar apiece for these pies; and she had so many customers for them and for such loaves of bread as she could spare, that she often declared the farm was as good as a gold mine.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We were supposed not to play with dolls, consequently we durst not ask any one to step around and see how our little house in the back yard was weathering the storms, nor how the beloved nine in it were getting along.  Though only bottles of different sizes, to us they were dear children, named after great personages whom the soldiers had taught us to honor.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The most distinguished had cork stoppers for heads, with faces marked on the sides, the rest, only wads of paper or cloth fastened on the ends of sticks that reached down into the bodies.  A strip of cloth tied around each neck, below the bulge, served as make-believe arms, suitable for all ordinary purposes, and, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>We worried because they were clothed in fragments of cloth and paper too thin for the season; and the very first chance we got, we slipped out and found our darlings in a pitiable plight.  Generals Washington and Jackson, and little Van Buren were mired at the foot of a land slide from the overhanging bank.  Taylor, Webster, Clay, and Benton had been knocked down and buried almost out of sight.  Martha Washington's white shawl and the chicken plumes in her hat were ruined; and Dandy Jim from North Carolina lay at her feet with a broken neck!</P>
187.sgm:<P>Such a shock!  Not until we realized that everything could be restored was our grief assuaged--that is, everything but Dandy Jim.  He was a serious loss, for he was our only black bottle and had always been kept to wait on Martha Washington.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We worked fast, and had accomplished so much before being called into the house that we might have put everything in order next day, had Georgia not waked up toward morning with a severe cold, and had grandma not found out how she caught it.  The outcome was that our treasures were taken to the storeroom to become medicine and vinegar bottles, and we mourned like birds robbed of their young.</P>
187.sgm:<P>New duties were opened to me as soon as I could wear my shoes, and by the time Georgia was out again, I was a busy little dairymaid, and quite at home in the corrals.  I had been decorated with the regulation salt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>When I could sit on the one-legged stool, which Jakie had made me, hold a pail between my knees and milk one or more cows, without help, they both praised my cleverness--a cleverness which fixed more outside responsibilities upon me, and kept me from Georgia a longer while each day.  My work was hard, still I remained noticeably taller and stronger than she, who was assigned to lighter household duties.  I felt that I had no reason to complain of my tasks, because everybody about me was busy, and the work had to be done.</P>
187.sgm:<P>If I was more helpful than my little sister, I was also a source of greater trouble, for I wore out my clothes faster, and they were difficult to replace, especially shoes.</P>
187.sgm:<P>There was but one shoemaker in the town, and he was kept so busy that he took a generous measure of children's feet and then allowed a size or more, to guard against the shoes being too small by the time he should get them finished.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When my little stogies began to leak, he shook his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"I would rather go barefooted and get snags in my feet than have so much bother about old shoes that are worn out and no good anyway!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was still crying when Hendrik, a roly-poly Hollander, came along and asked the cause of my distress.  Grandma told him that I was out of humor, because she was trying to keep shoes on my feet, while I was determined to run them off.  He laughed, bade me cheer up, sang the rollicking sailor song with which he used to drive away storms at sea, then showed me a hole in the heel of the dogskin boots he wore, and told me that, out of their tops, he would make me a beautiful pair of shoes.</P>
187.sgm:<P>No clouds darkened my sky the morning that Hendrik came, wearing a pair of new cowhide boots then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>He had brought a piece of tanned cowhide for the soles of my shoes, an awl, a sailor's thimble, needles, coarse thread, a ball of wax, and a sharp knife.  The hair on the inside of the boot legs was thick and smooth, and the colors showed that one of the skins had been taken from the body of a black and white dog, and the other from that of a tawny brindle.  As Hendrik modelled and sewed, he told me a wondrous tale of the great North Polar Sea, where he had gone in a whaling vessel, and had stayed all winter among mountains of ice and snow.  There his boots had worn out.  So he had bought these skins from queer little people there, who live in snow huts, and instead of horses or oxen, use dogs to draw their sleds.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I liked the black and white skin better than the brindle, so he cut that for the right foot, and told me always to make it start first.  And when I put the shoes on they felt so soft and warm that I knew I could never forget Hendrik's generosity and kindness.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The longer I wore them the more I became attached to them, and the better I understood the story he had told me; for in my musings they were not shoes, but "Spot" and "Brindle," live Eskimo dogs, that had drawn families of queer little people in sleds over the frozen sea, and had always been hungry and ready to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>When I needed shoestrings, I was sent to the shoemaker, who only glanced up and replied, "Come tomorrow, and I'll have a piece of leather big enough."</P>
187.sgm:<P>The next day, he made the same answer, "Come tomorrow," and kept pegging away as fast as he could on a boot sole.  The third time I appeared before him, he looked up with the ejaculation, "Well, I'll be damned, if she ain't here again!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was well aware that he should not have used that evil word, yet was not alarmed, for I had heard grandpa and others use worse, and mean no harm, nor yet intend to be cross.  So I stood quietly, and in a trice he was up, had rushed across the shop, brought back two round pieces of leather not larger than cookies, and before I knew what he was about, had turned them into good straight shoestrings.  He waxed them, and handed them to me with the remark, "Tell your grandma that since you had to wait so long, I charge her only twenty-five cents for them."</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>MEXICAN METHODS OF CULTIVATION--FIRST STEAMSHIP THROUGH THE GOLDEN GATE--"THE ARGONAUTS" OR "BOYS OF '49"--A LETTER FROM THE STATES--JOHN BAPTISTE--JAKIE LEAVES US--THE FIRST AMERICAN SCHOOL IN SONOMA.</P>
187.sgm:<P>BY the first of March, 1849, carpenters had the frame of grandma's fine new two-story house enclosed, and the floors partly laid.  Neighbors were hurrying to get their fields ploughed and planted, those without farming implements following the Mexican's crude method of ploughing the ground with wooden prongs and harrowing in the seed by dragging heavy brush over it.</P>
187.sgm:<P>They gladly turned to any tool that would complete the work by the time the roads to the mountains should be passable, and the diggings clear of snow.  Their expectations might have been realized sooner, if a bluff old launch captain, with an eye to business for himself and San Francisco, had not appeared on the scene, shouting, "Ahoy" to everybody.</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I say, a steamship anchored in the Bay of San Francisco two days ago.  She's the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
187.sgm:.  Steamed out of New York Harbor with merchandise.  Stopped at Panama; there took aboard three hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>By return boat, farmers, shopkeepers, and carpenters hastened to San Francisco.  All were eager for supplies from the first steamship that had entered the Golden Gate--the first, it may be added, that most of them, even those of a sea-going past, had ever seen.</P>
187.sgm:<P>During the absence of husbands, we little girls were loaned separately nights to timid wives who had no children to keep them company.  Georgia went earlier and stayed later than I, because grandma could not spare me in the evenings until after the cows were turned out, and she needed me in the mornings before sunrise.  Those who borrowed us made our stays so pleasant that we felt at home in many different houses.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Once, however, I encountered danger on my early homeward trip.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I had turned the bend in the road, could see the smoke curling out of grandma's chimney, and knew that every nearer house was closed.  In order to avoid attracting the attention of a suspicious-looking cow on the road, I was running stealthily along a rail fence, when, unexpectedly, I came upon a family of sleeping swine, and before I was aware of danger from that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Quivering like a leaf and for a time unable to rise, I lay upon the green earth facing the morning sky.  With strange sensations and wonderment, I tried to think what might have happened, if I had not rolled.  What if that space between fence and ground had been too narrow to let my body through; what if, on the other hand, it had been wide enough for that enraged brute to follow?</P>
187.sgm:<P>Too frightened to cry, and still trembling, I made my way to the end of the field and climbed back over the fence near home.  Grandma was greatly startled by my blanched face, and the rumpled and soiled condition of my clothes.  After I related my frightful experience, she also felt that had it not been for that fence, I should have been torn to pieces.  She explained, however, that I probably would not have been attacked had I not startled the old mother so suddenly that she believed her young in danger.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When our menfolk returned from San Francisco, they were accompanied by many excited treasure-seekers, anxious to secure pack animals to carry their effects to the mines.  They were made welcome, and in turn furnished us news of the outer world, and distributed worn copies of American and foreign <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Those light-hearted newcomers, who danced and gayly sang,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>O Susannah, don't you cry for me!<LB>I'm bound to Californy with a tin pan on my knee,</HI>
187.sgm:<P>were the first we saw of that vast throng of gold-seekers, who flocked to our shores within a twelvemonth, and who have since become idealized in song and story as the "Argonauts," "the Boys of '49."</P>
187.sgm:<P>They were unlike either our pioneer or our soldier friends in style of dress and manner.  Nor had they come to build homes or develop the country.  They wanted gold to carry back to other lands.  Some had expected to find it near the Bay of San Francisco; some, to scoop it up out of the river beds that crossed the valleys; and others, to shovel it from ravines and mountain-sides.  When told of the difficulties before them, their impatience grew to be off, that they might prove to Western plodders what could be done by Eastern pluck and muscle.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Such packing as those men did!  Mother's Bible, and wife and baby's daguerreotype not infrequently started to the mines in the coffee pot, or in the miner's boots, hanging across the mule's pack.  The sweetheart's lock of hair, affectionately concealed beneath the hat lining of its faithful wearer, caught the scent of the old clay pipe stuck in the hat-band.</P>
187.sgm:<P>With the opening season all available Indians of both sexes were hired as gold-diggers, and trudged <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>San Francisco had a regular post office.  One day its postmaster forwarded a letter, addressed to ex-Governor Boggs, which the latter brought out and read to grandma.  She did not, as usual, put her head out of the window and call us, but came from the house wiping her eyes, and asked if we wanted to be put in a big ship and sent away from her and grandma and Jakie.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Greatly alarmed, we exclaimed, "No, no, grandma, no!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>Taking us by the hand, she led us into the house, seated herself and drew one of us to each side, then requested the Governor to read the letter again.  We two did not understand all it said, but enough to know that it had been written by our own dear aunt, Elizabeth Poor, who wanted Governor Boggs to find her sister's three little orphaned girls and send them back to her by ship to Massachusetts.  It contained the necessary directions for carrying out her wish.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandma assured the Governor that we did not want to leave her, nor would she give us up.  She said she and her husband and Jakie had befriended us when we were poor and useless, and that we were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>POST OFFICE, CORNER OF CLAY AND PIKE STREETS, SAN FRANCISCO, 1849</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OLD CITY HOTEL, 1846, CORNER OF KEARNEY AND CLAY STREETS, THE FIRST HOTEL IN SAN FRANCISCO</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>219</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The Governor spoke of schools and divers matters pertaining to our welfare, then promised to explain by letter to Aunt Elizabeth how fortunately we were situated.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This event created quite a flutter of excitement among friends.  Grandpa and Jakie felt just as grandma did about keeping us.  Georgia and I were assured that in not being allowed to go across the water, we had escaped great suffering, and, perhaps, drowning by shipwreck.  Still, we did wish that it were possible for us to see Aunt Elizabeth, whom mother had taught us to love, and who now wanted us to come to her.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I told Georgia that I would learn to write as fast as I could, and send her a letter, so she would know all about us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We now imagined that we were quite large girls, for grandma usually said before going away, "Children, you know what there is to do and I leave everything in your care."  We did not realize that this was her little scheme, in part, to keep us out of mischief; but we knew that upon her return she would see, and call attention to what was left undone.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Once, when we were at home alone and talking about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>220</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"I heard at Napa that you lived here, and my pony has made a hard run to give me this sight of you."</P>
187.sgm:<P>We were surprised and delighted, for the speaker was John Baptiste who had wintered with us in the Sierras.  We asked him to dismount, take a seat under the tree, and let us bring him a glass of milk.  He declined graciously, then with a pleased expression, drew a small brown-paper parcel from his trousers pocket and handed it to us, leaned forward, clasped his arms about his pony, rested his head on its neck, and smilingly watched Georgia unwrap it, and two beautiful bunches of raisins come to view, --one for each.  He would not touch a single berry, nor let us save any.  He asked us to eat them then and there so that he could witness our enjoyment of the luxury he had provided for this, our first meeting in the settlement.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Never had we seen raisins so large, translucent, and delicious.  They seemed far too choice for us to have, and John was so poorly dressed and pinched in features that we hesitated about eating them.  But he would have his way, and in simple language told us that he wanted them to soften the recollection of the hungry time when he came into camp empty-handed and discouraged.  Also to fulfil his assurance to our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>He was gone when grandma got back; and she was very serious when told what had occurred in her absence.  She rarely spoke to us of our mother, and feared it might lessen our affection for herself, if others kept the memory of the dead fresh in our minds.</P>
187.sgm:<P>There were many other happenings before the year closed, that caused me to think a great deal.  Grandpa spent less time at the shop; he bought himself a fleet-footed horse which he named Antelope, and came home oftener to talk to grandma about money they had loaned Major Prudon to send to China for merchandise, also about a bar-room which he was fitting up near the butcher-shop, for a partner.  Next, he bought faithful Charlie, a large bay horse, with friendly eyes, and long black mane and tail; also a small blue farm wagon in which Georgia and I were to drive about the fields, when sent to gather loose bark and dry branches for baking fires.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We were out for that purpose the day that we saw grandpa ride away to the mines, but we missed seeing Jakie steal off, with his bunch of cows.  He felt too badly to say good-bye to us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was almost heart-broken when I learned that he was not coming back.  He had been my comforter in most of my troubles, had taught me to ride and drive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>When the season for collecting and drying herbs came, Georgia and I had opportunity to be together considerably.  It was after we had picked the first drying of sage and were pricking our fingers on the saffron pods, that grandma, in passing, with her apron full of Castilian rose petals, stopped and announced that if we would promise to work well, and gather the sage leaves and saffron tufts as often as necessary, she would let us go to a "real school" which was about to open in town.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Oh, dear! to go to school, to have books and slate and pencil!  What more could be wished?  Yes, we would get up earlier, work faster before time to go, and hurry home after lessons were over.  And I would carry the book Aunt Lucy had given me.  It was all arranged, and grandma went to town to buy slates, pencils, speller, and a stick of wine-colored ribbon to tie up our hair.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>When the anticipated hour came, there were great preparations that we might be neat and clean and ready on time.  Our hair was parted in four equal divisions; the front braids, tied with ribbon, formed a U at the back of the neck; and we wore new calico dresses and sunbonnets, and carried lunch for two in a curious little basket, which grandma must have brought with her from Switzerland.  Joyfully we started forth to the first American school opened in Sonoma.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Alas! it was not what our anticipations had pictured.  The schoolroom was a dreary adobe, containing two rows of benches so high that, when seated, we could barely touch the earthen floor with our toes.  The schoolmaster told us that we must hold our slates on our laps, and our open books in the right hand, and not look at the pictures, but study all the time, and not speak, even to each other, without permission.  His face was so severe, his eyes so keen, and his voice so sharp that I was afraid of him.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He had a chair with a back to it, and a table to hold his books; yet he spent most of his time walking about with a narrow strap of rawhide in his hand, and was ever finding some one whose book drooped, or who was whispering; and the stinging bite of that strap would call the erring to order.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The Misses Boggs, Lewis, Smith, and Bone were pretty young ladies, and brought their own chairs and a table to sit around; and when they whispered, the master never saw them; and when they missed in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I learned my lessons well enough, but grandma was terribly shocked because I got strapped nearly every day.  But then, I sat between Georgia and the other little girls in our row, and had to deliver messages from those on both sides of me, as well as to whisper a little on my own account.  Finally, grandma declared that if I got a whipping next day, she would give me a second one after reaching home.  So I started in the morning with the intention of being the best girl in school; but we had hardly settled in line for our first lesson, when Georgia whispered behind her book, "Eliza, see!  Mary Jane Johnson has got my nice French card, with the double queens on it, and I can't get it."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Forgotten were my good resolutions.  I leaned out of line, and whispered louder than I meant, "Mary Jane Johnson, that is my sister's card, and you must give it back to her."</P>
187.sgm:<P>She saw the master watching, but I did not, until he called me to hold out my hand.  For once, I begged, "Please excuse me; I won't do it again."  But he would n't, and I felt greatly humiliated, because I knew the large girls had heard me and were smiling.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After recess, a new boy arrived, little Willie McCracken, whom we had seen on the plains, and known at Sutter's Fort, and he knew us as soon as he reached his seat and looked around.  In a short time, I nudged Georgia, and asked her if I had n't better roll him the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Instead of his getting it, however, the master stepped down and picked it up, with the hand that did n't have the strap in it.  So, instead of being the best, I was the worst child in school, for not one had ever before received two strappings in a forenoon.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It must have been our bad day, for Georgia felt her very first bite from the strap that afternoon, and on the way home volunteered not to tell on me, if grandma did not ask.  Yet grandma did, the first thing.  And when Georgia reluctantly said, "Yes," grandma looked at me and shook her head despairingly; but when I announced that I had already had two strappings, and Georgia one, she burst out laughing, and said she thought I had had enough for one day.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A few weeks later, the large boys drove the master out of school on account of his cruelty to a little fellow who had played truant.</P>
187.sgm:<P>In that dingy schoolroom, Georgia and I later attended the first Protestant Sunday school and church service held in Sonoma.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>FEVER PATIENTS FROM THE MINES--UNMARKED GRAVES--THE TALES AND TAUNTS THAT WOUNDED MY YOUNG HEART.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A SHORT experience in the mines cured grandpa's "mining fever," but increased his rheumatism.  The accounts he brought of sufferings he had witnessed in the camps prepared us for the approaching autumn's work, when many of the happy fellows who had started to the gold-fields in vigorous health and with great expectations returned haggard, sick, and out of luck.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then was noble work done by the pioneer women.  No door was closed against the needy.  However small the house might be, its inmates had some comfort to offer the stranger.  Many came to grandma, saying they had places to sleep but begging that she would give them food and medicine until they should be able to proceed to San Francisco.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Weary mortals dragged their aching limbs to the benches under her white oak tree, dropped upon them, with blankets still across their shoulders, declaring they could not go another rod.  Often, she turned her face aside and murmured, "God help the poor wanderers"; but to them she would say encouragingly, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Ere long, beds had to be made on the floor of the unfinished house.  More were needed, and they were spread under the great white oak.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On a block beside each fever patient stood a tin cup, which Georgia and I were charged to keep full of cold water, and it was pitiful to see the eyes of the sick watch the cooling stream we poured.  Our patients eagerly grasped the cup with unsteady hands, so that part of its contents did not reach the parched lips.  Often, we heard the fervid prayer, "God bless the women of this land, and bless the children too!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>Soon we learned to detect signs of improvement, and were rejoiced when the convalescents smiled and asked for more to eat.  Grandma carried most of the food to them and sent us later for the empty dishes.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Of the many who came to us that season, there was but one who never proceeded on his way.  He was a young German, fair of face, but terribly wasted by disease.  His gentle, boyish manner at once made him a favorite, and we not only gave him our best care, but when a physician drifted into town, grandma sent for him and followed his directions.  I remember well the day that John seemed almost convalescent, relished his breakfast, wanted to talk a while, and before we left him, had us bring him a basin of warm water and his beflowered carpet bag, from which he took a change of clothing and his shaving outfit.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>When we saw him later, his hair was smoothly combed; he looked neat and felt encouraged, and was sure that he should soon be up and doing for himself.  At nightfall, grandma bade us wipe the dishes quickly as possible, at which Georgia proposed a race to see whether she could wash fast enough to keep us busy, and we got into a frolicsome mood, which grandma put an end to with the sobering remark:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Oh, be not so worldly-minded.  John ist very bad to-night.  I be in a hurry to go back to him, and you must hold the candle."</P>
187.sgm:<P>We passed out into the clear cold starlight, with the burning candle sheltered by a milk pan, and picked our way between the lumber to the unfinished room where John lay.  I was the last to enter, and saw grandma hurriedly give the candle to Georgia, drop upon her knees beside the bed, touch his forehead, lift his hand, and call him by name.  The damp of death was on his brow, the organs of speech had lost their power.  One long upward look, a slight quivering of the muscles of the face, and we were alone with the dead.  I was so awed that I could scarcely move, but grandma wept over him, as she prepared his body for burial.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The next afternoon, we three and grandpa and a few friends followed him to his final resting-place.  After he was gone, grandma remembered that she did not know his name in full, the land of his birth, nor the address of his people.  Expecting his recovery, she had not troubled him with questions, and the few <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>229</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>We had patients of every type, those who were appreciative and grateful, and those who rebelled against confinement, and swore at the pain which kept sleep from their eyes, and hurled their things about regardless of consequences.  The most trying were the chronic grumblers, who did not know what they wanted, nor what they ought to have, and adopted the moody refrain:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>But the happy times are over,<LB>I've only grief and pain,<LB>For I shall never, never see<LB>Susannah dear again.</HI>
187.sgm:<P>The entrance of Georgia and myself would occasionally turn their thoughts into homeward channels, and make them reminiscent of their little children and loved ones "back in the States."  Then, again, our coming would set them to talking about our early disaster and such horrible recounts of happenings in the snow-bound camps that we would rush away, and poor Georgia would have distressing crying spells over what we had heard.</P>
187.sgm:<P>At first no tears dimmed my eyes, for I felt, with keen indignation, that those wounding tales were false; but there came hours of suffering for me later, when an unsympathetic soldier, nicknamed "Picayune Butler," engaged me in conversation and set me to thinking.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>230</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>He was a great big man with eyes piercing as a hawk's, and lips so thin that they looked like red lines on his face, parting and snapping together as he repeated the horrible things he had read in <HI REND="italics">The California Star</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Too young, too ignorant, and too distressed to disprove the accusations or resent his individual views, I could only take refuge behind what I had heard and seen in camp, and declare, "I know it is not true; they were good people, and loved their babies, and were sorry for everybody."</P>
187.sgm:<P>How could I believe his cruel words?  While I had come from the mountains remembering most clearly the sufferings from cold, hunger, thirst, and pitiful surroundings, I had also brought from there a child's mental picture of tenderest sympathies and bravest self-denials, evinced by the snowbound in my father's camp, and of Mrs. Murphy's earnest effort to soothe and care for us three little sisters after we had been deserted at the lake cabins by Cady and Stone; also <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Oh, how I longed to be grown, to have opportunities to talk with those of the party who were considered old enough to remember facts, and would answer the questions I wanted to ask; and how firmly I resolved that when I grew to be a woman I would tell the story of my party so clearly that no one could doubt its truth!</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>THANK OFFERINGS--MISS DOTY'S SCHOOL--THE BOND OF KINDRED--IN JACKET AND TROUSERS--CHUM CHARLIE.</P>
187.sgm:<P>GRANDMA had a fixed price for table board, but would not take pay for medicines, nor for attendance on the sick; consequently, many of her patients, after reaching San Francisco, sent thank offerings of articles useful and pleasing to her.  Thus, also, Sister Georgia and I came into possession of pretty calico, Swiss, and delaine dresses, and shoes that filled our hearts with pride, for they were of Morocco leather, a red and a green pair for each.  We had seen finely dressed Spanish children wear such shoes, but never supposed that we should be so favored.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After the first dresses were finished, there came a Sunday when I was allowed to go to the Mission Church with Kitty Purcell, the baker's little daughter, and I felt wonderfully fine in my pink calico frock, flecked with a bird's-eye of white, a sunbonnet to match, and green shoes.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The brilliantly lighted altar, decked with flowers, the priests in gorgeous vestments, the acolyte with the swinging censer, and the intoned service in foreign tongue, were bewildering to me.  My eyes wandered from the clergy to the benches upon which sat the rich <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>Gifts which grandma considered quite unsuitable came one day in two neat wooden boxes about thirty inches in length, and eight in width and depth.  They were addressed to us individually, but in grandma's care.  When she removed the cover and a layer of cotton batting from Georgia's, a beautiful French lady-doll was revealed, exquisitely dressed, with a spray of flowers in her hair, and another that looped one side of her lovely pink skirt sufficiently high to display an elaborately trimmed petticoat.  She was so fine in lace and ribbons, yes, even watch and chain, that grandma was loath to let us touch her, and insisted she should be handled in the box.</P>
187.sgm:<P>My gift was a pretty young Swiss matron in holiday attire, really more picturesque, and quite as costly as Georgia's, but lacking that daintiness which made the lady-doll untouchable.  I had her to hug and look at only a few moments; then both boxes with their precious contents were put away for safe keeping, and brought forth only on state occasions, for the inspection of special visitors.</P>
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187.sgm:<P>Grandma did not want any nonsense put into our heads.  She wished us to be practical, and often quoted maxims to the effect that, "As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined"; "All work is ennobling if well done"; "Much book-learning for girls is not conducive to happiness or success"; and "The highest aim of a girl should be honesty, chastity, and industry."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Still, she was so pleased when I could write a little with ink and quill, that she dictated several letters to Jakie, who was in the dairy business near Stockton; and in an unguarded moment she agreed that I should attend Miss Doty's school.  Then she hesitated.  She wished to treat us exactly alike, yet could not spare both at the same time.  Finally, as a way out of the difficulty, she decided that we should attend school alternate months, during the summer; and that my sister, being the elder, should begin the course.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It seemed to me that Georgia's month at school would never end.  My own sped faster than I wished.  Miss Doty helped me with my lessons during part of the noon hour, and encouragingly said, "Be patient, keep trying, and you will gain your reward."</P>
187.sgm:<P>While still her pupil, I wrote my long-planned letter to Aunt Elizabeth.  Georgia helped to compose it, and when finished, we carried it to our friend, the postmaster.  He banteringly held it in his hand, until we told its contents and begged that it go to Aunt Elizabeth as fast as possible.  He must have seen that it was incorrectly addressed, yet he readily promised that if an answer should come addressed to "Miss <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>After many fruitless trips to the post-office, we were one day handed a letter for grandma.  It was not from our aunt, however, but from our sister Elitha, and bore the sad news that her husband, while on the range, had been thrown from his horse, and lived but a few moments after she reached him.  She also stated that her little daughter Elisabeth and her sister Leanna were with her on the ranch, and that she was anxious to learn how Georgia and I were getting on.</P>
187.sgm:<P>By advice of short-sighted friends, grandma sent a very formal reply to the letter, and told us that she did not want Elitha to write again.  Moreover, that we, in gratitude for what she had done for us, should take her name and call her "mother."</P>
187.sgm:<P>This endeavor to destroy personal identity and family connection, met with pathetic opposition.  Of our own accord, we had called her grandma.  But "mother"--that name was sacred to her who had taught our infant lips to give it utterance!  We would bestow it on no other.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Under no circumstance was there difficulty in finding some one ready to advise or help to plan our duties.  With the best of intentions?  Yes, but often, oh, how trying to us, poor little waifs of misfortune!</P>
187.sgm:<P>One, like a thorn in the flesh, was apportioned to me at the approach of the Winter of 1849 and 1850.  We needed more help in the dairy, but could get no one except Mr. Marsh, who lived in bachelor quarters <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>At a loss what to do, she discussed the situation with a neighbor, who after reflection asked,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Why not dress Eliza in boy's clothes and put her on old Charlie?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandma threw up her hands at the bare suggestion.  It was scandalous, improper!  Why, she had even taught me to shun the boys of the village.  However, she felt differently later in the day when she called me to her.  But in vain was coaxing, in vain was scolding, I refused positively to don boy's clothing.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then she told in strictest confidence that Georgia was very frail, would probably die young, certainly would not reach twenty-five; and I ought not to hesitate at what would make her life easier.  Still, if I had no regard for my sister's comfort, she would be compelled to send us together afoot after the cows, and the exposure might be very bad for Georgia.  This was enough.  I would wear the hated clothes and my little sister should never learn from me the seriousness of her condition, lest it should hasten her death.</P>
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187.sgm:<P>My suit of brown twill, red flannel shirt, boots, and sou'wester, with ear muffs attached, were ready for me before the heaviest winter storm.  The jacket and trousers were modelled for a boy of nine, instead of a girl not yet eight, but grandma assured me that being all wool, the rain would soon shrink them to my size, also that the boots, which were too wide in the heel and hurt my toes, would shape themselves to my feet and prevent the old frost bites from returning.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was very unhappy while she helped me to dress, and pinned up my braids, and hid them under my storm hat; and I was absolutely wretched when she kissed me and said,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"It would be hard to find a prettier little boy than you are."</P>
187.sgm:<P>After again admonishing me to let no one on the range know I was a girl, and to answer all questions civilly and ride on quickly after my string of cows, she promised that if I helped her thus through the short days of the rainy season, she would give back my "girl clothes" in the Spring, and never again ask me to wear others.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She led me to where Charlie was tied to a tree.  I stepped on to a block, from there to a stump, put my foot into the stirrup, and clumsily raised myself into the seat of an old dragoon saddle.  My eyes were too full of tears to see, but grandma put the reins in my hand and started me away.  Away where?  To drive up the cows?  Yes, --and into wider fields of thought than she recked.</P>
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187.sgm:<P>After I got beyond our road, I stopped Charlie, and made him turn his face toward mine, and told him all that had happened, and just how I felt.  The good old horse seemed to understand, for no friend could be more faithful than Charlie thenceforth proved to me.  He learned to separate our cows from the many strange ones on the plain; to move faster when it rained; to choose the crossings that were safe; and to avoid the branches that might scrape me from his back.  Grandma was pleased to learn that drivers on the range, when inquiring about strays, addressed me as "Bubbie."  My humiliation, however, was so great that, though Georgia and I were room-mates, and had secret day meetings, I never went near her when others were by.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She was allowed to play oftener with neighbors' children, and occasionally spent a week or more with Mrs. Bergwald, helping her to care for her little daughter.  While away, she learned fine needlework, had fewer crying spells, and was more contented than at home with grandma.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This happiness in her life added much to mine, and it came to pass that the duty which had seemed such a bitter task, became a pleasure.  As the days lengthened, chum Charlie and I kept earlier hours, and crept closer to the heart of nature.  We read the signs of the day in the dawn tints; watched the coyotes and other night prowlers slink back to their lairs; saw where the various birds went to housekeeping, and how they cared for their young; knew them also by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>The aged boughs heaped by the wind in wild confusion about the maimed and storm-beaten tree-trunks seemed to assume fantastic shapes and expressions as we approached from different directions, or viewed them under light and shadow of changing weather.  Gnarled and twisted, they became elves and goblins, and the huge piles of storm wreckage were transformed into weird old ruins and deserted castles like those which grandma had described to me in legends of the Rhine.  At twilight I was often afraid to pass, lest giants and ghosts should show themselves between uncanny arches.  Then all that was needed was a low cluck to Charlie, and off he would start on a run past imaginary dangers.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It was late in the Spring when grandma gave back my "girl clothes" and wearily told me she had hired a boy to drive in the cows, and a man to help to milk; and that Georgia was to look after the house, and I to take her own place in the corrals, because she was sick and would have to be cupped and bled before she could be better.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandpa came home early next day and everything was ready for the treatment immediately after the noon meal.  Grandma looked so grave, and gave so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>As soon as her illness became known, neighbors came from far and near to help with the dairy work or nursing; and keen was their disappointment when she replied, "I thank you for your kind offers, but the children are handy and know my ways."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Regularly she asked me about the cows, and if the goats had been milked, the eggs gathered, and the pigs fed.  She remembered and planned the work, but did not regain strength as rapidly as she wished; nor did she resume her place in the corrals, even after she was up and around, but had a way of coming unexpectedly to see if her instructions were being carried out.</P>
187.sgm:<P>One day she became quite angry on finding me talking with a stranger.  He was well dressed and spoke like a gentleman, touched his hat as she drew near and remarked, "This little girl tells me she is an orphan, and that you have been very kind to her."  Grandma was uncivil in her reply, and he went away.  Then she warned me, "Beware of wolves in sheep's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>CAPT. FRISBIE--WEDDING FESTIVITIES--THE MASTERPIECE OF GRANDMA'S YOUTH--SENORA VALLEJO--JAKIE'S RETURN--HIS DEATH--A CHEROKEE INDIAN WHO HAD STOOD BY MY FATHER'S GRAVE.</P>
187.sgm:<P>CAPTAIN FRISBIE spent much time in Sonoma after Company H was disbanded, and observing ones remarked that the attraction was Miss Fannie Vallejo.  Yet, not until 1851 did the General consent to part with his first-born daughter.  Weeks before the marriage day, friends began arriving at the bride's home, and large orders came to grandma for dairy supplies.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She anticipated the coming event with interest and pleasure, because the prolonged and brilliant festivities would afford her an opportunity to display her fancy and talent in butter modelling.  For the work, she did not charge, but simply weighed the butter for the designs and put it into crocks standing in cold water in the adobe store-house where, in the evenings, after candle-light, we three gathered.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Her implements were a circular hardwood board, a paddle, a set of small, well pointed sticks, a thin-bladed knife, and squares of white muslin of various degrees of fineness.  She talked and modelled, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>In exuberant delight we exclaimed, "Oh, grandma, how did you learn to make such wonderful things?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I did not learn, it is a gift," she replied.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then she spoke of her modelling in childhood, and her subsequent masterpiece, which had won the commendation of Napoleon and Empress Josephine.</P>
187.sgm:<P>At that auspicious time, she was but eighteen years of age, and second cook in the principal tavern of Neuchatel, Switzerland.  Georgia and I sat entranced, as with animated words and gestures she pictured the appearance of the buglers and heralds who came weeks in advance to announce the date on which the Emperor and Empress would arrive in that town and dine at the tavern; then the excitement and enthusiastic preparations which followed.  She described the consultations between the <HI REND="italics">Herr Wirth</HI>
187.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Frau Wirthin</HI>
187.sgm: and their maids; and how, finally, Marie's butter-piece for the christening feast of the child of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:the Herr Graf was remembered; and she, the lowly second cook, was told that a corner in the cellar would be set apart for her especial use, and that she should have her evenings to devote to the work, and three <HI REND="italics">groschen</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Five consecutive nights, she designed and modelled until the watchman's midnight cry drove her from work, and at three o'clock in the morning of the sixth day, she finished.  And what a centrepiece it was!  It required the careful handling of no less than three persons to get it in place on the table, where the Emperor might see at a glance the groups of figures along the splendid highway, which was spanned by arches and terminated with a magnificently wrought gateway, surmounted by His Majesty's coat of arms.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We scarcely winked as we listened to the rest of the happenings on that memorable day.  She recounted how she had dropped everything at the sound of martial music and from the tiny open space at the window caught glimpses of the passing pageant--of the royal coaches, of the maids of honor, of Josephine in gorgeous attire, of the snow-white poodle snuggled close in the Empress's arms.  Then she told how she heard a heavy thud by the kitchen fire, which made her rush back, only to discover that the head cook had fallen to the floor in a faint!</P>
187.sgm:<P>She gave the quick call which brought the Frau Wirthin to the scene of confusion, where in mute <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>Then she went on to say that while the dinner was being served, the Emperor admired the butter-piece, and on hearing that it was the work of a young maid-servant in the house, commanded that she be brought in to receive commendation of himself and the Empress.  Again the Frau Wirthin rushed to the kitchen in great excitement, and--knowing that Marie's face was red from heat of the fire, that she was nervous from added responsibilities, and not dressed for presentation--cried with quivering lips:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Ah, Marie! the butter-piece is so grand, it brings us into trouble.  The great Emperor asks to see thee, and thou must come!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>She told how poor, red-faced, bewildered Marie dropped her ladle and stared at the speaker, then rolled down her sleeves while the Frau Wirthin tied her own best white apron around her waist, at the same time instructing her in the manner in which she must hold her dress at the sides, between thumb and forefinger, and spread the skirt wide, in making a low, reverential bow.  But Marie was so upset that she realized only that her heart was beating like a trip-hammer, and her form shaking like an aspen leaf, while being led before those august personages.  Yet, after it was all over, she was informed that the Emperor and Empress had spoken kindly to her, and that she, herself, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>To impress us more fully with the importance of that event, grandma had Georgia and me stand up on our cellar floor and learn to make that deferential bow, she by turns, taking the parts of the Frau Wirthin, the Emperor, and the Empress.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She now finished her modelling with a dainty centrepiece for the bride's table, and let me go with her when she carried it to the Vallejo mansion.  It gave great satisfaction; and while the family and guests were admiring it, Sen&tilde;ora Vallejo took me by the hand, saying in her own musical tongue, "Come, little daughter, and play while you wait."</P>
187.sgm:<P>She led me to a room that had pictures on the walls, and left me surrounded by toys.  But I could not play.  My eyes wandered about until they became riveted on one corner of the room, where stood a child's crib which looked like gold.  Its head and foot boards were embellished with figures of angels; and a canopy of lace like a fleecy cloud hovered over them.  The bed was white, but the pillows were covered with pink silk and encased in slips of linen lawn, exquisite with rare needlework.  I touched it before I left the room, wondering what the little girl dreamed in that beautiful bed; and on the way home, grandma and I discussed all these things.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The linen pillow-slips were as fine as those Sen&tilde;orita <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>I have a faint recollection of listening to the chimes of the wedding bells, and later, of hearing that Captain Frisbie had taken his bride away; but that is all, for about that time dear old Jakie returned to us in ill health, and our thoughts and care turned to him.  He was so feeble and wasted that grandma sent for the French physician who had recently come among us.  Even he said that he feared that Jakie had stayed away too long.  After months of treatment, the doctor shook his head saying: "I have done my best with the medicines at hand.  The only thing that remains to be tried is a tea steeped from the nettle root.  That may give relief."</P>
187.sgm:<P>As soon as we could get ready after the doctor uttered those words, Georgia and I, equipped with hoe, large knife, and basket were on our way to the Sonoma River.  We had a full two miles and a half to walk, but did not mind that, because we were going for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>The plants towered luxuriantly above our heads, making the task extremely painful.  No sooner would I commence operations than the branches, slipping from under the stick, would brush Georgia's face, and by the time we had secured the required number of roots, we were covered with fiery welts.  We took off our shoes and stockings, waded into the stream and bathed our faces, hands, and arms, then rested and ate the lunch we had brought with us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As we turned homeward, we observed several Indians approaching by the bushy path, the one in front staggering, and his squaw behind, making frantic motions to us to hurry over the snake fence near-by.  This we did as speedily as possible, and succeeded none too soon; for as we reached the ground on the safe side, he stopped us, and angrily demanded the contents of our basket.  We opened it, and when he saw what it contained he stamped his wabbling foot and motioned us to be off.  We obeyed with alacrity, for it was our first experience with a drunken Indian, and greatly alarmed us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The tea may have eased Jakie's pain, but it did not accomplish what we had hoped.  One morning late in Summer, he asked grandpa to bring a lawyer and witnesses so that he could make his will.  This request made us all move about very quietly and feel very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>Grandma put on deep mourning, but Georgia and I had only black sunbonnets, which we wore with heart-felt grief.  The following Spring grandpa had the grave enclosed with a white paling; and we children planted Castilian rose bushes at the head and foot of the mound, and carried water to them from the house, and in time their branches met and the grave was a bed of fragrant blossoms.</P>
187.sgm:<P>One day as I was returning from it with my empty pail, a tidy, black-eyed woman came up to me and said,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I'm a Cherokee Indian, the wife of one of the three drovers that sold the Brunners them long-horned cattle that was delivered the other day.  I know who you are, and if you'll sit on that log by me, I'll tell you something."</P>
187.sgm:<P>We took the seats shaded by the fence and she continued with unmistakable pride: "I can read and write quite a little, and me and the men belong to the same tribe.  We drove our band of cattle across the plains and over the Sierras, and have sold them for more than we expected to get.  We are going back the same road, but first I wanted to see you little girls.  I heard lots about your father's party, and how you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>So earnest was she, that I believed what she told me, and was sorry that I could not answer all her questions.  We parted as most people did in those days, feeling that the meeting was good, and the parting might be forever.</P>
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187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>ELITHA, FRANCES, AND MR. MILLER VISIT US--MRS. BRUNNER CLAIMS US AS HER CHILDREN--THE DAGUERREO-TYPE.</P>
187.sgm:<P>THE Spring-tide of 1852 was bewitchingly beautiful; hills and plain were covered with wild flowers in countless shapes and hues.  They were so friendly that they sprang up in dainty clusters close to the house doors, or wherever an inch of ground would give them foothold.</P>
187.sgm:<P>They seemed to call to me, and I looked into their bright faces, threw myself among them, and hugged as many as my arms could encircle, then laid my ear close to the ground to catch the low sound of moving leaf and stem, or of the mysterious ticking in the earth, which foretells the coming of later plants.  Sometimes in my ecstasy, I would shut my eyes and lie still for a while, then open them inquiringly, to assure myself that all my favorites were around me still, and that it was not all a day-dream.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This lovely season mellowed into the Summer which brought a most unexpected letter from our sister Frances, who had been living all these years with the family of Mr. James F. Reed, in San Jose.  Childlike, she wrote:</P>
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187.sgm:<P>I am happy, but there has not been a day since I left Sutter's Fort that I haven't thought of my little sisters and wanted to see them.  Hiram Miller, our guardian, says he will take me to see you soon, and Elitha is going too.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After the first few days of wondering, grandma rarely mentioned our prospective visitors, nor did she show Georgia or me the letter she herself had received from Elitha, but we re-read ours until we knew it by heart, and were filled with delightful anticipations.  We imagined that our blue-eyed sister with the golden curls would look as she did when we parted, and recalled many things that we had said and done together at the Fort.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I asked grandma what "guardian" meant, and after she explained, I was not pleased with mine, and dreaded his coming, for I had not forgotten how Mr. Miller had promised me a lump of sugar that night in the Sierras, and then did not have it for me after I had walked the required distance; nor could I quite forgive the severe punishment he administered next morning because I refused to go forward and cried to return to mother when he told me that I must walk as far as Georgia and Frances did that day.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Autumn was well advanced before the lumbering old passenger coach brought our long-expected guests from the <HI REND="italics">embarcadero</HI>
187.sgm:, and after the excitement of the meeting was over, I stealthily scanned each face and figure.  Mr. Miller's stocky form in coarse, dark clothes, his cold gray eyes, uneven locks, stubby beard, and teeth and lips browned by tobacco chewing, were not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>Elitha, well dressed, tall, slender, and regular of feature, had the complexion and sparkling black eyes which mark the handsome brunette.  I was more surprised than disappointed, however, to see that the girl of twelve, who slipped one arm around Georgia and the other around me in a long, loving embrace, had nothing about her that resembled our little sister Frances, except her blue eyes and motherly touch.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The week of their visit was joyous indeed.  Many courtesies were extended by friends with whom we had travelled from time to time on the plains.  One never-to-be-forgotten afternoon was spent with the Boggs family at their beautiful home amid orchard and vineyard near the foothills.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On Sunday, the bell of the South Methodist Church called us to service.  In those days, the men occupied the benches on one side of the building, and the women and children on the other; and I noticed that several of the young men found difficulty in keeping their eyes from straying in our direction, and after service, more than one came to inquire after grandma's health.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Miller passed so little time in our company that I remember only his arrival and his one serious talk with grandma, when he asked her the amount due her on account of the trouble and expense we two children had been since she had taken us in charge.  She told him significantly that there was nothing to pay, because we were her children, and that she was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>It pictured herself comfortably seated, and one of us standing at either side with an elbow resting upon her shoulder, and a chubby face leaning against the uplifted hand.  She was arrayed in her best cap, handsome embroidered black satin dress and apron, lace sleeve ruffs, kerchief, watch and chain.  We were twin-like in lace-trimmed dresses of light blue dimity, striped with a tan-colored vine, blue sashes and hair ribbons; and each held a bunch of flowers in her hand.  It was a costly trinket, in a case inlaid with pink roses, in mother of pearl, and she was very proud of it.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandma's answer to Mr. Miller was a death-knell to Elitha's hopes and plans in our behalf.  Her little daughter had been dead more than a year.  Sister Leanna had recently married and gone to a home of her own, and the previous week the place made vacant by the marriage had been given to Frances, with the ready approval of Hiram Miller and Mr. and Mrs. Reed.  She had now come to Sonoma hoping that if Mr. Miller should pay grandma for the care we had been to her, she would consent to give us up in order that we four sisters might be reunited in one home.  Elitha now foresaw that such a suggestion would not only result in failure, but arouse grandma's antagonism, and cut off future communication between us.</P>
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187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>GREAT SMALLPOX EPIDEMIC--ST. MARY'S HALL--THANKSGIVING DAY IN CALIFORNIA--ANOTHER BROTHER-IN-LAW.</P>
187.sgm:<P>MRS. BRUNNER has become too childish to have the responsibility of young girls," had been frequently remarked before Elitha's visit; and after her departure, the same friends expressed regret that she had not taken us away with her.</P>
187.sgm:<P>These whispered comments, which did not improve our situation, suddenly ceased, for the smallpox made its appearance in Sonoma, and helpers were needed to care for the afflicted.  Grandma had had the disease in infancy and could go among the patients without fear.  In fact, she had such confidence in her method of treating it, that she would not have Georgia and me vaccinated while the epidemic prevailed, insisting that if we should take the disease she could nurse us through it without disfigurement, and we would thenceforth be immune.  She did not expose us during what she termed the "catching-stage," but after that had passed, she called us to share her work and become familiar with its details, and taught us how to brew the teas, make the ointments, and apply them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I do not remember a death among her patients, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The other was our arch-enemy, Castle, who seemed so near death that one night as grandma was peering into the darkness for signal lights from the homes of the sick, she exclaimed impulsively, "Hark, children! there goes the Catholic bell.  Count its strokes.  Castle is a Catholic, and was very low when I saw him to-day."  Together we slowly counted the knells until she stopped us, saying, "It's for somebody else; Castle is not so old."</P>
187.sgm:<P>She was right.  Later he came to us to recuperate, and was the most exacting and profane man we ever waited on.  He conceived a special grudge against Georgia, whom he had caught slyly laughing when she first observed the change in his appearance.  Yet months previous, he had laid the foundation for her mirth.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He was then a handsome, rugged fellow, and particularly proud of the shape of his nose.  Frequently had he twitted my sensitive sister about her little nose, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MRS. BRUNNER, GEORGIA AND ELIZA DONNER</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>S. O. HOUGHTON, Member of Col. J. D. Stevenson's First Regiment of N.Y. Volunteers<HSEP>ELIZA P. DONNER</P>
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187.sgm:<P>Georgia fled, and cried in anger over this indignity, declaring that she hated Castle and would not be sorry if something should happen to spoil his fine nose.  So when he came to us from the sick-room, soured and crestfallen because disease had deeply pitted and seamed that feature which had formerly been his pride, she laughingly whispered, "Well, I don't care, my nose could never look like his, even if I had the smallpox, for there is not so much of it to spoil."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our dislike of the man became intense; and later, when we discovered that he was to be bartender at grandpa's bar, and board at our house, we held an indignation meeting in the back yard.  This was more satisfaction to Georgia than to me, for she had the pleasure of declaring that if grandma took that man to board, she would be a Schweitzer child no longer, she would stop speaking German, make her clothes like American children's; and that she knew her friend Mrs. Bergwald would give her a home, if grandma should send her away.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Here the meeting was suddenly interrupted by the discovery that grandma was standing behind us.  We did not know how long she had been there nor how <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>A few moments later Georgia came up to our room, and found me dressing myself with greatest care.  In amazement she asked, "Eliza, where are you going?" and was dumbfounded when I answered, "To find another home for us."</P>
187.sgm:<P>In the lower hall I encountered grandma, whose anger had cooled, and she asked the question Georgia had.  I raised my sleeve, showed the welt on my arm, and replied, "I am going to see if I can't find a home where they will treat me kindly."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Poor grandma was conscience-stricken, drew me into her own room, and did not let me leave it until after she had soothed my hurts and we had become friends again.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia went to Mrs. Bergwald's, and remained quite a while.  When she came back speaking English, and insisting that she was an American, grandma became very angry, and threatened to send her away among strangers; then hesitated, as if realizing how fully Georgia belonged to me and I to her, and that we would cling together whatever might happen.  In her perplexity, she besought Mrs. Bergwald's advice.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Now, Mrs. Bergwald was a native of Stockholm, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Thereafter grandma changed her methods.  She gave us our dolls to look at, and keep among our possessions, likewise most of our keepsakes.  She also unlocked her carefully tended parlor and we three spent pleasant evenings there.  Sometimes she would let us bring her, from under the sofa, her gorgeous prints, illustrating "Wilhelm Tell," and would repeat the text relating to the scenes as we examined each picture with eager interest.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We were also allowed to go to Sunday school oftener, and later, she sent me part of the term to the select school for girls recently established by Dr. Ver Mehr, an Episcopalian clergyman.  In fact, my tuition was expected to offset the school's milk bill, yet that did not lessen my enthusiasm.  I was eager for knowledge.  I also expected to meet familiar faces in that great building, which had been the home of Mr. Jacob Leese.  But upon entering I saw only finely dressed young ladies from other parts of the State promenading in the halls, and small girls flitting about in the yard like bright-winged butterflies.  Some had received letters from home and were calling out the news; others were engaged in games that were strange to me.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I made several life-long friends at that institute; still it was easy to see that "St. Mary's Hall" was established for pupils who had been reared in the lap of wealth and ease; not for those whose hands were rough like mine.  Nor was there a class for me.  I seemed to be between grades, and had the discouragement of trying to keep up with girls older and farther advanced.</P>
187.sgm:<P>My educational advantages in Sonoma closed with my half term at St. Mary's Hall, grandma believing that I had gone to school long enough to be able to finish my studies without teachers.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia was more fortunate.  When Miss Hutchinson opened "The Young Ladies' Seminary" in the Fall, grandma decided to lend it a helping hand by sending her a term as a day scholar.  My delighted sister was soon in touch with a crowd of other little girls, and brought home many of their bright sayings for my edification.</P>
187.sgm:<P>One evening she rushed into the house bubbling over with excitement and joyously proclaimed: "Oh, Eliza, Miss Hutchinson is going to give a great dinner to her pupils on Thanksgiving Day; and I am to go, and you also, as her guest."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandma was pleased that I was invited, and declared that she would send a liberal donation of milk and cheese as a mark of appreciation.</P>
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187.sgm:<P>I caught much of Georgia's spirit of delight, for I had a vivid recollection of the grand dinner given in commemoration of our very first legally appointed Thanksgiving Day in California; I had only to close my eyes, and in thought would reappear the longest and most bountifully spread table I had ever seen.  Turkey, chicken, and wild duck, at the ends; a whole roasted pig in the centre, and more than enough delicious accompaniments to cover the spaces between.  Then the grown folk dining first, and the flock of hungry children coming later; the speaking, laughing, and clapping of hands, with which the old home customs were introduced in the new land.</P>
187.sgm:<P>There, I wore a dark calico dress and sunbonnet, both made by poor Mrs. McCutchen of the Donner Party, who had to take in sewing for a livelihood; but to the Seminary, I should wear grandpa's gift, a costly alpaca, changeable in the sunlight to soft mingling bluish and greenish colors of the peacock.  Its wide skirt reached to my shoetops, and the gathers to its full waist were gauged to a sharp peak in front.  A wide open V from the shoulder down to the peak displayed an embroidered white Swiss chemisette.  The sleeves, small at the wrist, were trimmed with folds of the material and a quilling of white lace at the hand.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On the all-important morning, grandma was anxious that I should look well; and after she had looped my braids with bows of blue ribbon and fastened my dress, she brought forth my dainty bonnet, her own gift.  Deft fingers had shirred the pale-blue silk over a frame <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Did I look old fashioned?  Yes, for grandma said, "Thou art like a picture I saw somewhere long ago."  Then she continued brightly, "Here are thy mits, and thy little embroidered handkerchief folded in a square.  Carry it carefully so it won't get mussed before the company see it, and come not back late for milking."</P>
187.sgm:<P>The Seminary playground was so noisy with chatter and screams of joy, that it was impossible to remember all the games we played; and later the dining-room and its offerings were so surprising and so beautifully decorated that the sight nearly deprived me of my appetite.</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Mumps.  Bite a pickle and see if it ain't so!" exclaimed a neighbor to whom Georgia was showing her painful and swollen face.  True enough, the least taste of anything sour produced the tell-tale shock.  But the most aggravating feature of the illness was that it developed the week that sister Elitha and Mr. Benjamin W. Wilder were married in Sacramento; and when they reached Sonoma on their wedding tour, we could not visit with them, because neither had had the disease.</P>
187.sgm:<P>They came to our house, and we had a hurried little talk with a closed window between us, and were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>263</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Though not a wealthy man, he had a competency, for he and his elder brother were owners of an undivided half of Ranchos de los Cazadores (three leagues of land in Sacramento Valley), which was well stocked with horned cattle and good horses.  He was also interested in a stage line running between Sacramento and the gold regions.  He encouraged Elitha in her wish to make us members of their household, and the home they had to offer us was convenient to public schools; yet for obvious reasons they were now silent on the subject.</P>
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187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>264</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>IDEALS AND LONGINGS--THE FUTURE--CHRISTMAS.</P>
187.sgm:<P>AT the time of which I now speak, I was in my eleventh year, but older in feelling and thought.  I had ideals and wanted to live up to them, and my way was blocked by difficulties.  Often, in the cowyard, I would say to the dumb creatures before me,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I shall milk you dry, and be kind to you as long as I stay; but I shall not always be here doing this kind of work."</P>
187.sgm:<P>These feelings had been growing since the beginning of grandpa's partnership in that bar-room.  Neither he nor grandma saw harm in the business.  They regarded it as a convenient place where men could meet and spend a social evening, and where strangers might feel at home.  Yet, who could say that harm did not emanate from that bar?  I could not but wish that grandpa had no interest in it.  I did not want to blame him, for he was kind by nature, and had been more than benefactor to Georgia and me.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Fond recollection was ever bringing to mind joys he had woven into our early childhood.  Especially tender and precious thoughts were associated with that night long ago when he hurried home to inspect a daguerreotype that had just been taken.  Grandma <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Grandpa looked at it in silence, observing that grandma's likeness was natural, and Georgia's perfect, in fact, pretty as could be; while I, not being tall enough to rest my elbow comfortably upon grandma's shoulder, stood awkwardly with my flowers drooping and eyes turned, intently watching in the direction of the operator.  Regretfully, I explained:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Grandpa, mine was best two times, for Georgia moved in the first one, and grandma in the next, and the pictureman said after each, `We must try again.'  And he would have tried yet again, for me, but the sun was low, and grandma said she was sorry but this would have to do."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Lovingly, he then drew me to his side, saying, "Never mind, <HI REND="italics">mein Schatz</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Being younger than grandma, and more fond of amusements, he had taken us to many entertainments; notably, Odd Fellows' picnics and dinners, where he wore the little white linen apron, which we thought would be cute for our dolls.  He often reminded grandma that she should teach us to speak the high <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>Still, not even those tender recollections could longer hold in check my resentment against the influences and associations which were filtering through that bar-room, and robbing me of companions and privileges that I valued.  More than once had I determined to run away, and then desisted, knowing that I should leave two lonely old people grieving over my seeming ingratitude.  This question of duty to self and to those who had befriended me haunted my working hours, went with me to church and Sunday school, and troubled my mind when I was supposed to be asleep.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Strange, indeed, would it have seemed to me, could I then have known that before my thirtieth year, I should be welcomed in the home of the military chief of our nation.  Strange, also, that the young Lieutenant, William Tecumseh Sherman, who when visiting in Sonoma, came with his fellow-officers to the Brunner farm, should have attained that dignity.  Equally impossible would it have been then to conceive that in so short a time, I, a happy mother and the wife of a Congressional Representative, should be a guest at the brilliant receptions of the foreign diplomats and at the Executive Mansion in the city of Washington.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia's return from Mrs. Bergwald's before Christmas gave me a chance to talk matters over with her, and we decided that we must leave our present surroundings.  Yet, how to get away, and when, puzzled us.  Our only hope of escape seemed to be to slip off together some moonlight night.</P>
187.sgm:<P>"But," my sister remarked gravely, "we can't do it before Christmas!  You forget the white flannel skirt that I am embroidering for grandma, the pillow-slips that you are hemstitching and trimming with lace for her; and the beautiful white shirt that you have for grandpa."</P>
187.sgm:<P>She was sure that not to stay and give them as we had planned, would be as bad as breaking a promise.  So, we took out our work and hid ourselves to sew a while.</P>
187.sgm:<P>My undertaking was not so large or elaborate as hers, and when I finished, she still had quite a piece to do, and was out of floss.  She had pin-pricked from an embroidered silk shawl on to strips of white paper, the outline of a vine representing foliage, buds, and blossoms; then basted the paper in place around the skirt.  The colors were shaded green and pink.  Unable to get the floss for the blossoms, she had bought narrow pink silk braid and outlined each rose and bud, then embroidered the foliage in green.  Some might have thought it a trifle gaudy, but to me it seemed beautiful, and I was proud of her handiwork.</P>
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187.sgm:<P>I washed, starched, and ironed the pillow-slips while grandma was from home, and they did look well, for I had taken great pains in doing my work.  Several days before the appointed time, grandma, in great good humor, showed us the dresses she had been hiding from us; and then and there, like three children unable to keep their secrets longer, we exchanged gifts, and were as pleased as if we had waited until Christmas morning.</P>
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187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>THE WIDOW STEIN AND LITTLE JOHNNIE--"DAUGHTERS OF A SAINTED MOTHER"--ESTRANGEMENT AND DESOLATION--A RESOLUTION AND A VOW--MY PEOPLE ARRIVE AND PLAN TO BEAR ME AWAY.</P>
187.sgm:<P>ON the first of September, 1855, a widow, whom I shall call Stein, and her little son Johnnie, came to visit grandma.  She considered herself a friend by reason of the fact that she and her five children had been hospitably entertained in our home two years earlier, upon their arrival in California.  For grandpa in particular she professed a high regard, because her husband had been his bartender, and as such had earned money enough to bring his family from Europe, and also to pay for the farm which had come to her at his death.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mother and son felt quite at home, and in humor to enjoy their self-appointed stay of two weeks.  Despite her restless eye and sinister smile, she could be affable; and although, at first, I felt an indescribable misgiving in her presence, it wore away, and I often amused Johnnie while she and grandma talked.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As if to hasten events, Mrs. Bergwald had sent for Georgia almost at the beginning of the visit of the Steins; and after her departure, Mrs. Stein insisted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>She seemed deeply interested in California's early history, and when I would stop talking, she would ply me with questions.  So I told her how poor everybody was before the discovery of gold; how mothers would send their boys to grandma's early morning fire for live coals, because they had no matches or tinder boxes; how neighbors brought their coffee and spices to grind in her mills; how the women gathered in the afternoons under her great oak tree, to talk, sew and eagerly listen to the reading of extracts from letters and papers that had come from friends away back in the States.  I told her how, in case of sickness, one neighbor would slip over and cook the family breakfast for the sick woman, others would drop in later, wash the dishes, and put the house in order; and so by turns and shares, the washing, ironing, and mending would be done, and by the time the sick woman would be up and around, she would have no neglected work to discourage her.  Also we talked of how flags were used for day signals and lights by night, in calls for help.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our last talk was on Saturday morning between work.  She questioned me in regard to the amount, and location of the property of the Brunners, then wanted to hear all about my sisters in Sacramento, and wondered that we did not go to live with them.  I explained that Elitha had written us several times asking us to come, but, knowing that grandma would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>Finally, having exhausted information on several subjects, Mrs. Stein gave me a searching glance, and after a marked silence, continued: "I don't wonder that you love grandpa and grandma as much as you tell me, and it is a pity about these other things that aren't pleasant.  Don't you think it would be better for you to live with your sister, and grandma could have some real German children to live here?  She is old, and can't help liking her own kind of people best."</P>
187.sgm:<P>I did not have an unkind thought in mind, yet I did confess that I should like to live well and grow up to be like my mother.  In thoughtless chatter I continued, that more nice people came to visit grandma and to talk with us before the town filled with strangers, and before Americans lived in the good old Spanish houses, and before the new churches and homes were built.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She led me to speak of mother, then wondered at my vivid recollections, since I had parted from her so young.  She was very attentive as I told how Georgia and I spoke of her when we were by ourselves, and that friends did not let us forget her.  I even cited a recent instance, when the teacher had invited us, and two other young girls, to go to the Vallejo pear orchard for all the fruit we wished to eat, and when he offered the money in payment, the old Spanish gentleman in charge said, "Pay for three."</P>
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187.sgm:<P>"But we are five," said the teacher.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then the Don blessed himself with the sign of the cross, and pointing to Georgia and me, replied, "Those two are daughters of a sainted mother, and are always welcome!</P>
187.sgm:<P>At noon grandma told me that she and the Steins would be ready to go down town immediately after dinner, and that I wash the dishes and finish baking the bread in the round oven.  We parted in best of humor, and I went to work.  The dishes and bread received first attention.  Then I scrubbed the brick floor in the milk-house; swept the store-room and front yard; gathered the eggs, fed the chickens, and rebuilt the fire for supper.  I fancied grandma would be pleased with all I had accomplished, and laughed to myself as I saw the three coming home leaning close to each other in earnest conversation.</P>
187.sgm:<P>To my surprise, the Steins went directly to their own room; and grandma did not speak, but closed her eyes as she passed me.  That was her way, and I knew that it would be useless to ask what had offended her.  So I took my milk pails, and, wondering, went to the cow corrals.  I could not imagine what had happened, yet felt hurt and uncomfortable.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Returning with the milk, I saw Johnnie playing by the tree, too near the horse's feet, and warned him.  As he moved, grandma stepped forward and stood in front of me, her face white with rage.  I set my buckets down and standing between them listened as she said in German:</P>
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187.sgm:<P>"Oh, false one, thou didst not think this morning that I would so soon find thee out.  Thou wast not smart enough to see that my friend, Mrs. Stein, was studying thee, so that she could let me know what kind of children I had around me.  And thou, like a snake in the grass, hast been sticking out thy tongue behind my back.  Thou pretendest that thou art not staying here to get my money and property, yet thou couldst tell her all I had.  Thou wouldst not read all in the letters from thy fine sisters?  Thou wouldst rather stay here until I die and then be rich and spend it with them!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>She stopped as if to catch her breath, and I could only answer, "Grandma, I have not done what thou sayest."</P>
187.sgm:<P>She continued: "I have invited people to come here this night, and thou shalt stand before them and listen while I tell what I have done for thee, and how thou hast thanked me.  Now, go, finish thy work, eat thy supper, and come when I call thee."</P>
187.sgm:<P>I heard her call, but don't know how I got into the room, nor before how many I stood.  I know that my head throbbed and my feet almost refused to support my body, as I listened to grandma, who in forceful language declared that she had taken me, a starveling, and reared me until I was almost as tall as she herself; that she had loved and trusted me, and taught me everything I knew, and that I had that day blackened the home that had sheltered me, wounded the hand that had fed me, and proved myself unworthy the love that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I remained silent until the latter had announced that almost the first thing that she had noticed was that we children were of a selfish, jealous disposition, and that Georgia was very cross when her little Johnnie came home wearing a hat that grandpa had bought him.  Then I turned upon her saying, "Mrs. Stein, you forget that Georgia has not seen that hat.  You know that grandma bought it after Georgia went away."</P>
187.sgm:<P>She sprang toward me, then turned to grandma, and asked if she was going to let an underling insult a guest in her house.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I did not wait for the reply.  I fled out into the dark and made my way to the weird old tree-trunk in the back yard.  Thence, I could see lights from the windows, and at times hear the sound of voices.  There I could stand in the starlight and look up to the heavens.  I had been there before, but never in such a heart-sick and forlorn condition.  I was too overwrought to think, yet had to do something to ease the tension.  I moved around and looked toward Jakie's grave, then returned to the side of the tree-trunk which had escaped the ravages of fire, and ran my finger up and down, feeling the holes which the red-headed woodpecker had bored and filled with acorns.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A flutter in the air aroused me.  It was the old white-faced owl leaving the hollow in the live oak for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The spell was broken.  I grew calmer and began to think and to plan.  I pictured Georgia asleep in a pretty house two miles away, wondered how I could get word to her and what she would say when told that we would go away together from Sonoma, and not take anything that grandpa or grandma had given us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I remembered that of the fund which we had started by hemming new, and washing soiled handkerchiefs for the miners, there still remained in her trunk seven dollars and eighty-five cents, and in mine seven dollars and fifty cents.  If this was not enough to take us to Sacramento, we might get a chance as Sister Leanna had, to work our way.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was still leaning against the tree-trunk when the moon began to peep over the eastern mountains, and I vowed by its rising that before it came up in its full, Georgia and I should be in Sacramento.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I heard grandma's call from the door, which she opened and quickly closed, and I knew by experience that I should find a lighted candle on the table, and that no one would be in the room to say good-night.  I slept little, but when I arose in the morning I was no longer trouble tossed.  I knew what I would say to grandma if she should give me the chance.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandpa, who had come home very late, did not know what had happened, and he and I breakfasted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>"On account of thy bad conduct, Mrs. Stein is going to shorten her stay.  She is going to leave on Tuesday, and wants me to go with her.  She says that she has kept back the worst things that thou hast told about me, but will tell them to me on the road."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Trembling with indignation, I exclaimed, "Oh, grandma, thou hast always told us that it is wrong to speak of the faults of a guest in the house, but what dost thou think of one who hath done what Mrs. Stein hath done?  I did say some of the things she told thee, but I did not say them in that way.  I did n't give them that meaning.  I did n't utter one unkind word against thee or grandpa.  I have not been false to thee.  To prove it, I promise to stay and take care of everything while thou goest and hearest what more she hath to tell, but after the home-coming, I leave.  Nothing that thou canst say will make me change my mind.  I am thankful for the home I have had, but will not be a burden to thee longer.  I came to thee poor, and I will go away poor."</P>
187.sgm:<P>The Brunner conveyance was at the door on Tuesday morning when grandma and her guest came out to begin their journey.  Grandpa helped grandma and the widow on to the back seat.  While he was putting Johnnie in front with the driver, I stepped close to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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187.sgm:<P>On the way back to the house grandpa asked why I did not treat the widow more friendly, and I answered, "Because I don't believe in her."  To my surprise, he replied, "I don't either, but grandma is like a little child in her hands."</P>
187.sgm:<P>I felt that I ought to tell him I should soon go away, but I had never gone to him with home troubles, and knew that it would not be right to speak of them in grandma's absence; so he quietly went to his duties and I to mine.  Yet I could not help wondering how grandma could leave me in full charge of her possessions if she believed the stories that had been told her.  I felt so sure that the guilty one would be found out that it made me light-hearted.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mrs. Blake came and spent the night with me, and the following morning helped to get the breakfast and talked over the cleaning that I wished to do before grandma's return on the coming Saturday morning.  But <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>God moves in a mysterious way<LB>His wonders to perform,</HI>
187.sgm:<P>and unseen hands were shaping a different course for me!  I had the milk skimmed, and a long row of clean pans in the sunshine before time to hurry the dinner for grandpa and the three men.  I was tired, for I had carried most of the milk to the pig troughs after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>278</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>My thoughts followed the travellers with many questions, and the wish that I might hear what Mrs. Stein had to say.  I might have overstayed my time, if the flock of goats had not come up and smelled my hands, nibbled at the hem of my apron, and tried to chew the cape of my sun-bonnet.  I sprang up and with a shout and clap of my hands, scattered them, and entered the log kitchen, reclosing the lower section of the divided door, to keep them from following me within.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I prepared the dinner, and if it lacked the flavor of grandma's cooking, those who ate it did not tell me.  Grandpa lingered a moment to bestow a meed of praise on my work, then went off to the back corral to slaughter a beef for the shop.  I began clearing the table, and was turning from it with a vegetable dish in each hand when I caught sight of the shadow of a tall silk hat in the open space above the closed half door.  Then the hat and its wearer appeared.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Leaning over the edge of the door, he gazed at me standing there as if I were nailed to the floor.  I was speechless with amazement, and it seemed a long while before he remarked lightly, "You don't seem to know me."</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Yes, you are Mr. Wilder, my brother-in-law," I stammered.  "Where is Elitha?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>He informed me that she and their little daughter <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0040" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SACRAMENTO CITY IN THE EARLY FIFTIES</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FRONT STREET, SACRAMENTO CITY, 1850</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>In surprise he listened, then asked, "But are n't you at all anxious to see your sister and little niece?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>Most earnestly, I replied that I was.  Nevertheless, as grandma was away, I could not leave the place until after the day's work was done.  Then I enumerated what was before me.  He agreed that there was quite enough to keep me busy, yet insisted that I ought to keep the appointment for four o'clock.  After his departure, I rushed out to grandpa, told him who had come and gone, and what had passed between us.  He too, regretted the situation, but promised that I should spend the evening at the hotel.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I fairly flew about my work that afternoon, and my brain was as active as my hands and feet.  I was certain that brother and sister had come for us, and the absorbing query was, "How did they happen to arrive at this particular time?"  I also feared there was more trouble before me, and remembered my promise to grandma with twinges of regret.</P>
187.sgm:<P>At half-past four, I was feeding the hens in the yard, and, looking up, saw a strange carriage approaching.  Instantly, I guessed who was in it, and was at the gate before it stopped.  Elitha greeted me kindly, but not cordially.  She asked why I had not come as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>280</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>In my nervous haste I could not find the thimble, but carried out the necklace.  She next bade me take the seat beside her, thus disclosing her intention of carrying me on, picking up Georgia and proceeding to Sacramento.  She was annoyed by my answer and disappointed in what she termed my lack of pride.  Calling my attention to my peculiar style of dress and surroundings, to my stooped shoulders and callous hands, she bade me think twice before I refused the comfortable home she had to offer.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When assured that I would gladly go on Saturday, but was unwilling to leave in grandma's absence, she did not urge further, simply inquired the way to Georgia, and left me.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was nursing my disappointment and watching the disappearing carriage, when Mr. Knipp, the brewer, with his load of empty kegs drew up, and asked what I was thinking about so hard.  It was a relief to see his jolly, good-natured face, and I told him briefly that our people were in town and wished to take us home with them.  He got down from his wagon to say confidentially:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Thou must not leave grandpa and grandma, because the old man is always kind to thee, and though she may sometimes wag a sharp tongue, she means well.  Be patient, by-and-by thou wilt have a nice property, the country will have more people for hire, and thou wilt not have so hard to work."</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>281</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>When I told him that I did not want the property, and that there were other things I did care for, he continued persuasively:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Women need not so much learning from books.  Grandma would not know how to scold so grandly if she remembered not so many fine words from `Wilhelm Tell' and the other books that she knoweth by heart."  And he climbed back and drove off, believing that he had done me a good turn.</P>
187.sgm:<P>To my great satisfaction, Georgia arrived about dark, saying that Benjamin had brought her and would call for us later to spend the evening with them.  When we reached the hotel, Elitha received us affectionately, and did not refer to the disappointments of the afternoon.  The time was given up to talk about plans for our future, and that night when we two crept into bed, I felt that I had been eased of a heavy burden, for Benjamin was willing to await grandma's return.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He also told us that early next morning he would go to Santa Rosa, the county seat, and apply to be made our guardian in place of Hiram Miller, and would also satisfy any claim grandma might have to us, or against us, adding that we need not take anything away with us, except our keepsakes.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>282</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>GRANDMA'S RETURN--GOOD-BYE TO THE DUMB CREATURES--GEORGIA AND I ARE OFF FOR SACRAMENTO.</P>
187.sgm:<P>MEANWHILE, grandma and her friends had reached Bodego and spent the night there.  She had not learned anything more terrible that I had said about her, and at breakfast told Mrs. Stein that she had had a dream foreboding trouble, and would not continue the journey to the Stein home.  The widow coaxed and insisted that she go the few remaining miles to see her children.  Then she waxed indignant and let slip the fact that she considered it an outrage that American, instead of European born children should inherit the Brunner property, and that she had hoped that grandma would select two of her daughters to fill the places from which Georgia and I should be expelled.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandma took a different view of the matter, and started homeward immediately after breakfast.</P>
187.sgm:<P>That very afternoon, on the Santa Rosa road, whom should she pass but our brother Ben.  They recognized each other, but were too astonished to speak.  Grandma ordered her driver to whip up, saying that she had just seen the red-whiskered imp of darkness who had troubled her sleep, and she must get to town as fast as as possible.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>283</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>She stopped first at the butcher shop.  Before grandpa could express surprise at her unexpected return, she showered him wiht questions in regard to happenings at home, and being informed, took him to task for having permitted us to visit our people at the hotel.  He innocently remarked that he knew of no reason why we should not see our relatives; that Georgia was spending the day with them; and that we both had his permission to go again in the evening.  In conclusion he said that I had been a faithful, hard working little housekeeper, and she would find everything in order at home.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Grandma arrived at home before sunset, too excited to be interested in dairy matters.  She told me all about her trip, even to the name she had called my brother-in-law, adding that she knew he was "not red-whiskered, but he was next door to it."  Later, when he came, she did not receive him pleasantly, nor would she let us go to Elitha.  Brusquely, she demanded to know if I had written to him to come for us, and would not believe him when he assured her that neither he nor our sisters had received letter or message from us in months.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After his departure, I could see that she was no longer angry, and I dreaded the ensuing day, which was destined to be my last on that farm.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It came with a rosy dawn, and I was up to meet it, and to say good-bye to the many dumb creatures that I had cared for.  The tension I was under lent me strength to work faster than usual.  When the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>284</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"Come, Eliza, and eat thy breakfast."</P>
187.sgm:<P>I looked up and replied,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Grandma, I ate my last meal in thy house last night.  Dost thou not remember, I told thee that I would take care of everything until thy return, and then would not be a burden to thee longer?  I have kept my word, and am going away this morning."</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Thou are mine, and canst not go; but if thou wilt not eat, come and help me with the dishes," she replied nervously.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I had planned to slip off and change my dress before meeting her, but now, after a breath of hesitation, I went to dry the dishes, hoping that our talk would soon be over.  I knew it would be hard for both of us, for dear, childish grandma was ready to forgive and forget what she termed our little troubles.  I, however, smarting under the wrong and injustice that had been done me, felt she had nothing to forgive, and that matters between us had reached the breaking point.</P>
187.sgm:<P>She was still insisting on her right to keep me, when a slight sound caused us both to turn, and meeting Georgia's anxious, listening gaze, grandma appealed to her, saying,</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>285</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"Thou hast heard thy sister's talk, but thou hast not been in this fuss, and surely wilt not leave me?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Yes, I am going with Eliza," was the prompt answer, which had no sooner left her lips, than grandma resorted to her last expedient: she ordered us both to our room, and forbade us to leave it until she should hear from grandpa.</P>
187.sgm:<P>What message she sent him by the milker we never learned.  Georgia, being already dressed for the journey, and her trunk containing most of her possessions being at Mrs. Bergwald's, had nothing to do but await results.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I quickly changed my working suit for a better one, which had been given me by a German friend from San Francisco.  Then I laid out my treasured keepsakes.  In my nervous energy, nothing was forgotten.  I took pains that my clothes against the wall should hang in straight rows, that the folded ones should lie in neat piles in my pretty Chinese trunk, and that the bunch of artificial flowers which I had always kept for a top centre mark, should be exactly in the middle; finally, that the gray gauze veil used as a fancy covering of the whole should be smoothly tucked in around the clothing.  This done, I gave a parting glance at the dainty effect, dropped the cover, snapped the queer little brass padlock in place, put the key on the table, and covered the trunk so that its embossed figures of birds and flowers should be protected from harm.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We had not remembered to tell Elitha about the hundred dollars which Jakie had willed us, so decided to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>286</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>With the bundle containing my keepsakes, I now sat down by Georgia and listened with bated breath to the sound of grandma's approaching footsteps.  She entered and hastily began,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Grandpa says, if you want to go, and your people are here to take you, we have no right to keep you; but that I am not to part with you bad friends.  So I came to shake hands and say good-bye.  But I don't forgive you for going away, and I never want to see you or hear from you again!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>She did not ask to see what we were taking away, nor did her good-bye seem like parting.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The fear that something might yet arise to prevent our reaching brother and sister impelled us to run the greater part of the distance to the hotel, and in less than an hour thereafter, we were in the carriage with them on the way to Mrs. Bergwald's, prior to taking the road to Sacramento.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Off at last, without a soul in the town knowing it!</P>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia, who had neither said nor done anything to anger grandma, was easier in mind and more comfortable in body, than I, who, fasting, had borne the trials of the morning.  I could conceal the cause, but not the faint and ill feeling which oppressed me during the morning drive and continued until I had had something to eat at the wayside inn, and a rest, while the horses were enjoying their nooning.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>287</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I had also been too miserable to feel any interest in what occured at Mrs. Bergwald's after we stopped to let Georgia get her keepsakes.  But when the day's travel was over, and we were comfortably housed for the night, Georgia and I left our brother and sister to their happy hour with their child, and sat close together on the outer doorsteps to review the events of the day.  Our world during that solemn hour was circumscribed, reaching back only to the busy scenes of the morning, and forward to the little home that should open to us on the morrow.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When we resumed travel, we did not follow the pioneers' trail, once marked by hoof of deer, elk, and antelope, nor the winding way of the Spanish <HI REND="italics">cabellero</HI>
187.sgm:<P>On reaching the ferry across the Sacramento River, I gazed at the surrounding country in silent amazement.  Seven and a half years with their marvellous influx of brawn and brain, and their output of gold, had indeed changed every familiar scene, except the snow-capped Sierras, wrapped in their misty cloak of autumnal blue.  The broad, deep river had given up both its crystal floods and the wild, free song which had accompanied it to the sea, and become a turbid waterway, encumbered with busy craft bringing daily supplies to countless homes, and carrying afar the long hidden wealth of ages.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The tule flat between the water front and Sutter's Fort had become a bustling city.  The streets running <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>288</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>As we crossed from J Street to K, brother remarked, "Our journey will end on this street; which of you girls will pick out the house before we come to it?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>Elitha would not help us, but smiled, when, after several guesses, I said that I wished it to be a white house with brownish steps and a dark door with a white knob.  Hence, great was my satisfaction when near the southeast corner of Eighteenth and K streets, we halted in front of a cottage of that description; and it was regarded as a lucky omen for me, that my first wish amid new scenes should be realized.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The meeting with Sister Frances and the novelty of the new situation kept up a pleasurable excitement until bed-time.  Then in the stillness of the night, in the darkness of the new chamber, came the recollection that at about that hour one week ago, I, sorrowing and alone, had stood by a weird old tree-trunk in Sonoma, and vowed by the rising moon that before it should come up again in its full, Georgia and I would be in Sacramento.  I did not sleep until I had thanked the good Father for sending help to me in my time of need.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>289</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF SACRAMENTO--A GLIMPSE OF GRANDPA--THE RANCHO DE LOS CAZADORES--MY SWEETEST PRIVILEGE--LETTERS FROM THE BRUNNERS.</P>
187.sgm:<P>IT is needless to say that we were grateful for our new home, and tried to express our appreciation in words and by sharing the household duties, and by helping to make the neat clothing provided for us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The first Monday in October was a veritable red-letter day.  Aglow with bright anticipations, we hurried off to public school with Frances.  Not since our short attendance at the pioneer school in Sonoma had Georgia and I been schoolmates, and never before had we three sisters started out together with books in hand; nor did our expectations overreach the sum of happiness which the day had in store for us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The supposition that grandpa and grandma had passed out of our lives was soon disproved; for as I was crossing our backyard on the Saturday of that first week of school, I happened to look toward Seventeenth Street, and saw a string of wagons bringing exhibits from the fair grounds.  Beside the driver of a truck carrying a closed cage marked, "Buffalo," stood grandpa.  He had risen from his seat, leaned back against the front of the cage, folded his arms and was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>290</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"The old gentleman is lonely, and may have come to take you girls back with him."</P>
187.sgm:<P>His presence in Sacramento so soon after our reaching there did seem significant, because he had bought that buffalo in 1851, before she was weaned from the emigrant cow that had suckled and led her in from the great buffalo range, and he had never before thought of exhibiting her.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The following afternoon, as we were returning from Sunday school, a hand suddenly reached out of the crowd on J Street and touched Georgia's shoulder, then stopped me.  A startled backward glance rested on Castle, our old enemy, who said,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Come.  Grandpa is in town, and wants to see you."  We shook our heads.  Then he looked at Frances, saying, "All of you, come and see the large seal and other things at the fair."</P>
187.sgm:<P>But she replied, emphatically, "We have not permission," and grasping a hand of each, hurried us homeward.  For days thereafter, we were on the alert guarding against what we feared might happen.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Our alarm over, life moved along smoothly.  Elitha admonished us to forget the past, and prepare for the future.  She forbade Georgia and me to use the German language in speaking with each other, giving as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I was never a morbid child, and the days that I did not find a sunbeam in life, I was apt to hunt for a rainbow.  But there, in sight of the Sierras, the feeling again haunted me that perhaps my mother did not die, but had strayed from the trail and later reached the settlement and could not find us.  Each middle-aged woman that I saw ahead of me on the street would thrill me with expectation, and I would quicken my steps in order to get a view of her face.  When I gave up this illusion, I still prayed that Keseberg would send for me some day, and let me know her end, and give me a last message.  I wanted his call to me to be voluntary, so that I might know that his words were true.  These hopes and prayers were sacred, even from Georgia.</P>
187.sgm:<P>On the twenty-fourth of March, 1856, brother Ben took us all to pioneer quarters on Rancho de los Cazadores, where their growing interests required the personal attention of the three brothers.  There we became familiar with the pleasures, and also the inconveniences and hardships of life on a cattle ranch.  We were twenty miles from town, church, and school; ten miles from the post office; and close scrutiny far and wide disclosed but one house in range.  Our supply of books was meagre, and for knowledge of current events, we relied on <HI REND="italics">The Sacramento Union</HI>
187.sgm:<P>My sweetest privilege was an occasional visit to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>She did not understand me.  I was light-hearted because I was old enough to appreciate the blessings that had come to me; old enough to look ahead and see the pure, intelligent womanhood opening to me; and trustful enough to believe that my expectations in life would be realized.  So I gathered counsel and comfort from the lips of that sympathetic cousin, and loved her word pictures of the home where I was born.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Nor could change of circumstances wean my grateful thoughts from Grandpa and Grandma Brunner.  At times, I seemed to listen for the sound of his voice, and to hear hers so near and clear that in the night, I often started up out of sleep in answer to her dream calls.  Finally I determined to disregard her parting <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"I'm off to Sacramento, Eliza, to bring you that long-expected letter.  It was misdirected, and is advertised in <HI REND="italics">The Sacramento Union's</HI>
187.sgm:<P>He left me in a speculative mood, wondering if it was from grandma; which of her many friends had written it for her; and if it was severe, as predicted by Georgia.  Great was my delight when the letter was handed me, and I opened it and read:</P>
187.sgm:<P>SONOMA, <HI REND="italics">July 3, 1856</HI>
187.sgm:<P>TO MISS ELIZA P. DONNER:</P>
187.sgm:<P>CASADOR RANCHO, CONSUMNE RIVER</P>
187.sgm:<P>NEAR SACRAMENTO CITY.</P>
187.sgm:<P>DEAR ELIZA:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Your letter of the fifteenth of June came duly to hand, giving me great satisfaction in regard to your health, as well as keeping me and grandfather in good memory.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I have perused the contents of your letter with great interest.  I am glad to learn that you enjoy a country life.  We have sold lately twelve cows, and are milking fifteen at present.  You want to know how Flower is coming on: had you not better come and see for yourself?  Hard feelings or ill will we have none against you; and why should I not forgive little troubles that are past and gone by?</P>
187.sgm:<P>I know that you saw grandfather in Sacramento; he saw you and knew you well too.  Why did you not go and speak to him?</P>
187.sgm:<P>The roses you planted on Jacob's grave are growing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>294</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>In parental affection,</P>
187.sgm:<P>MARY AND CHRISTIAN BRUNNER.</P>
187.sgm:<P>(Give our love also to Georgia.)</P>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia was as much gratified by the contents of the letter as I, and we each sent an immediate answer, addressed to grandpa and grandma, expressing our appreciation of their forgiving words, regret for trouble and annoyances we had caused them, thanks for their past kindness, and the hope that they would write to us again when convenient.  We referred to our contentment in our new home, and avoided any words which they might construe as a wish to return.</P>
187.sgm:<P>There was no long waiting for the second letter, nor mistake in address.  It was dated just three days prior to the first anniversary of our leaving Sonoma, and here speaks for itself:</P>
187.sgm:<P>SONOMA, <HI REND="italics">Sept. 11, 1856</HI>
187.sgm:<P>GEORGIA AND ELIZA DONNER.</P>
187.sgm:<P>MY DEAR CHILDREN:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Your two letters dated August thirty-first reached us in due season.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We were glad to hear from you, and it is our wish that you do well.  Whenever you are disposed to come to us again our doors shall be open to you, and we will rejoice to see you.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We are glad to see that you acknowledge your errors, for it shows good hearts, and the right kind of principles; for you should always remember that in showing respect to old age you are doing yourself honor, and those who know you will respect you.  All your cows are doing well.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I am inclined to think that the last letter we wrote you, you did not get.  We mention this to show you that we always write to you.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Your mother desires to know if you have forgotten the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0042" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Photograph by Lynwood Abbott.<LB>PINES OF THE SIERRAS</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0043" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GENERAL JOHN A. SUTTER<HSEP>COL. J. D. STEVENSON</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Your grandfather informs you that he still keeps the butcher shop, and bar-room, and that scarcely a day passes without his thinking of you.  He still feels very bad that you did not, before going away, come to him and say "Good-bye, grandfather."  He forgives you, however, and hopes you will come and see him.  When you get this letter you must write.<HSEP>Yours affectionately,</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHRISTIAN BRUNNER,</P>
187.sgm:<P>MARY BRUNNER.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Letters following the foregoing assured us that grandma had become fully satisfied that the stories told her by Mrs. Stein were untrue.  She freely acknowledged that she was miserable and forlorn without us, and begged us to return to the love and trust which awaited us at our old home.  This, however, we could not do.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Before the close of the Winter, Frances and Georgia began preparations for boarding school in Sacramento, and I being promised like opportunities for myself later, wrote all about them to grandma, trusting that this course would convince her that we were permanently separated from her, and that Elitha and her husband had definite plans for our future.  I received no response to this, but Georgia's first communication from school contained the following paragraph:</P>
187.sgm:<P>I saw Sallie Keiberg last week, who told me that her mother had a letter from the old lady (Grandma Brunner) five weeks ago.  A man brought it.  And that the old lady had sent us by him some jewellery, gold breast-pins, earrings, and wristlets.  He stopped at the William Tell Hotel.  And that is all they know about him and the presents.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIV</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>TRAGEDY IN SONOMA--CHRISTIAN BRUNNER IN A PRISON CELL--ST. CATHERINE'S CONVENT AT BENICIA--ROMANCE OF SPANISH CALIFORNIA--THE BEAUTIFUL ANGEL IN BLACK--THE PRAYER OF DONA CONCEPCION ARGUELLO REALIZED--MONASTIC RITES.</P>
187.sgm:<P>TIME passed.  Not a word had come to me from Sonoma in months, when Benjamin handed me the <HI REND="italics">Union</HI>
187.sgm:<P>From the lurid details published, I learned that the Brunners had asked this nephew to come to them, and had sent him money to defray his expenses from Switzerland to California.  Upon his arrival in Sonoma, he had settled himself in the proffered home, and at once begun a life of extravagance, at the expense of his relatives.  He was repeatedly warned against trifling with their affection, and wasting their hard-earned riches.  Then patience ceased, and he was forbidden the house of his uncle.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, his aunt became seriously ill, and the young man visited her secretly, and prevailed upon her to give him, in the event of her death, certain cattle and other property which stood in her name.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>This almost incredible news was so harrowing that I could scarcely think of anything, except grandpa chained in a prison cell, grandma in hiding away from home, and excited groups of people gathering about the thoroughfares of Sonoma discussing the tragedy.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was not sorry that at this time an epidemic of measles broke out in Sacramento, and Georgia became one of its early victims.  This brought both girls back to the ranch, and during Georgia's convalescence, we had many serious talks about the Brunners' troubles.  We wrote to grandma, but received no answer, and could only wait to learn what would be done with grandpa.  He was arraigned and held; but the date set for trial was not fixed before Benjamin took Frances and Georgia to Benicia, to enter the September term of St. Catherine's Convent School.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Upon Ben's return, I observed that he and Elitha were keeping from me some mysterious but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Friends who had religious prejudices advised Ben against putting us under Catholic influence, but he replied good-naturedly: "The school is excellent, the girls are Protestants, and I am not afraid.  Besides, I have told them all the horrible and uncanny stories that I have heard about convents, and they will not care to meddle with anything outside of the prescribed course of study."</P>
187.sgm:<P>He was twenty years older than I, and had such conservative and dignified ways, that I often stood in awe of him.  So when he let the convent gate close behind us with a loud click and said, "Now, you are a goner," I scanned his face apprehensively, but seeing nothing very alarming, silently followed him through the massive door which was in charge of a white-robed nun of the Dominican order.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Presently Mother Mary Superior and my two sisters came to us in the reception room and my brother <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ST. CATHERINE' CONVENT AT BENICIA, CALIFORNIA</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0045" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CHAPEL, ST. CATHERINE'S CONVENT</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"Your sister Georgia cried twice as long as expected when she came; still I will allow you the regular five minutes."</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I don't wish to cry," was my timid response.</P>
187.sgm:<P>"But," she insisted, "you must shed a few entrance tears to--" Before she finished her sentence, and without thinking that it would be overreaching a stranger's privilege, I impulsively threw my arms around her neck, laid my cheek against hers, and whispered, "Please don't make me cry."</P>
187.sgm:<P>She drew me closer to her, and her lips touched my forehead, and she said, "No, child, you need not."  Then she bade me go with my sisters and become acquainted with my new surroundings.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was at once made to feel that I was welcome to every advantage and privilege accorded to Frances and Georgia.  The following Monday, soon after breakfast, I slipped unobserved from the recreation room and made my way to the children's dormitory, where Sister Mary Joseph was busily engaged.  I told her that I had come to help make beds and that I hoped she would also let me wash or wipe the silverware used at the noon and evening meals.  She would not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>By the end of the week I knew the way to parts of the buildings not usually open to pupils.  Up in the clothes room, I found Sister Mary Frances, and on assuring her that I only wanted occupation for part of my leisure time, she let me help her to sort and distribute the clothing of the small girls, on Saturdays.  Sister Rose let me come to her in the kitchen an hour on Sundays, and other light tasks were assigned me at my request.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then did I eat the bread of independence, take a wholesome interest in my studies, and enjoy the friends I gained!</P>
187.sgm:<P>My seat in the refectory was between my sister Georgia and Miss Cayitana Payn&tilde;e, a wealthy Spanish girl.  Near neighbors were the two Estudillo sisters, who were prouder of their Castilian lineage than of the princely estate which they had inherited through it.  To them I was in a measure indebted for pleasing conversation at table.  My abundant glossy black hair and brunette type had first attracted their attention, and suggested the probability of Spanish blood in my veins.  After they had learned otherwise, those points of resemblance still awoke in them an unobtrusive interest in my welfare.  I became aware of its depth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I was near Miss Dolores Estudillo, and overheard her say quietly to her sister, in Spanish, "Magdalena, see how care-free the young girl at my side seems tonight.  The far-away look so often in her eyes leads me to think that our dear Lord has given her many crosses to bear.  Her hands show marks of hard work and her clothing is inexpensive, yet she appears of good birth and when I can throw pleasure in her way, I mean to do it."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Whereupon Miss Magdalena turned to me and asked, "Do you live in Sacramento, Miss Donner?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>"No, I live on a ranch twenty miles from the city."</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Do your parents like it there?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I have no parents, they died when I was four years old."</P>
187.sgm:<P>She did not ask another question, nor did she know that I had caught the note of sympathy in her apology as she turned away.  From that time on, she and her coterie of young friends showed me many delicate attentions.</P>
187.sgm:<P>While still a new pupil, I not infrequently met Sister Dominica resting at the foot of the steps after her walk in the sunshine, and with a gracious, "Thank you," she would permit me to assist her up the flight of stairs leading to her apartment.  Bowed by age, and wasted by disease, she was patiently awaiting the final summons.  I became deeply interested in her before I learned that this wan bit of humanity was the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:once winsome daughter of Commandante Arguello, and the heroine of a pathetic romance of Spanish California's day.<ANCHOR ID="n34-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n34-1">The subject of a poem by Bret Harte, and of a novel by Mrs. Gertrude Atherton.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>The hero was Rezanoff, an officer of high repute, sent by Russia in 1806 to inspect its establishment at the port of Sitka, Alaska.  Finding the colony there in almost destitute condition, he had embarked on the first voyage of a Russian vessel to the port of San Francisco, California.  There being no commercial treaty between the two ports, Rezanoff made personal appeal for help to Governor Arrillago, and later to Commandante Arguello.  After many difficulties and delays, he succeeded in obtaining the sorely needed supplies.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, the young officer frequently met in her father's house the vivacious Don&tilde;a Concepcion Arguello, and Cupid soon joined their hearts with an immortal chain.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After their betrothal, Rezanoff hastened back to the destitute colony with supplies.  Then he sped on toward St. Petersburg, buoyant with a lover's hope of obtaining his sovereign's sanction to his marriage, and perhaps an appointment to Spain, which would enable him to give his bride a distinguished position in the country of her proud ancestors.  Alas, death overtook the lover <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<P>When Don&tilde;a Concepcion learned of her bereavement her lamentations were tearless, her sorrow inconsolable.  She turned from social duties and honors, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>367</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>303</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Early in her sorrow, she had prayed that death might come to her in the season when the snow lay deep on Siberia's plain; and her prayer was realized, for it was on a bleak winter morning that we pupils gathered in silence around the breakfast table, knowing that Sister Dominica lay upon her bier in the chapel.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The meal was nearly finished when Sister Amelda entered, and spoke to a couple of the Spanish young ladies, who bowed and immediately withdrew.  As she came down the line selecting other Spanish friends of the dead, she stopped beside me long enough to say:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"You also may go to her.  You comforted her in life, and it is fitting that you should be among those who keep the last watch, and that your prayers mingle with theirs."</P>
187.sgm:<P>After her burial, which was consecrated by monastic rites, I returned to the schoolroom with reverential memories of Sister Dominica, the once "beautiful angel in black."</P>
187.sgm:<P>The school year closed in July, 1858, and I left the convent with regret.  The gentle, self-sacrificing conduct of the nuns had destroyed the effect of the prejudicial stories I had heard against conventual life.  The tender, ennobling influences which had surrounded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>My sister Frances and William R. Wilder, who had been betrothed for more than a year, and had kept their secret until we three returned from the convent, were married November 24, 1858, and soon thereafter moved to a pleasant home of their own on a farm adjoining Rancho de los Cazadores.  The following January, Georgia and I entered public school in Sacramento, where we spent a year and a half in earnest and arduous study.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>305</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXV</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>THE CHAMBERLAIN FAMILY, COUSINS OF DANIEL WEBSTER--JEFFERSON GRAMMAR SCHOOL--FURTHER CONFLICTING ACCOUNTS OF THE DONNER PARTY--PATERNAL ANCESTRY--S. O. HOUGHTON--DEATH TAKES ONE OF THE SEVEN SURVIVING DONNERS.</P>
187.sgm:<P>OUR school home in Sacramento was with friends who not only encouraged our desire for knowledge, but made the acquirement pleasant.  The head of the house was Mr. William E. Chamberlain, cashier of D.O. Mills's bank.  His wife, Charlotte, was a contributor to <HI REND="italics">The Sacramento Union</HI>
187.sgm:<P>In addition to their superior personal attainments, Mr. and Mrs. Chamberlain, each--for they were cousins--had the distinction of being first cousins to Daniel Webster, and this fact also served to bring to their home guests of note and culture.  Georgia and I were too closely occupied with lessons to venture often beyond the school-girl precinct, but the intellectual atmosphere which pervaded the house, and the books to which we had access, were of inestimable advantage.  Furthermore, the tuition fees required of non-resident <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Several resident families had also taken advantage of this privilege, and elected to pay tuition and place their children under his instruction, thus bringing together forty-nine energetic boys and girls to whet each other's ambition and incite class rivalry.  Among the number were the five clever children of the Hon. Tod Robinson; three sons of Judge Robert Robinson; Colonel Zabriskie's pretty daughter Annie; Banker Swift's stately Margaret; General Redding's two sons; Dr. Oatman's son Eugene; beloved Nelly Upton, daughter of the editor of <HI REND="italics">The Sacramento Union</HI>
187.sgm:<P>At the end of the term, <HI REND="italics">The Daily Union</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Even this cursory reference was a matter of regret to Georgia and me.  We had entered school silent in regard to personal history, and did not wish public attention turned toward ourselves even in an indirect way, fearing it might lead to a revival of the false and sensational accounts of the past, and we were not prepared to correct them, nor willing they should be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>307</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Almost coincident, however, with the foregoing circumstance, Georgia came into possession of "What I Saw in California," by Edwin Bryant; and we found that the book did contain many facts in connection with our party's disaster, but they were so interwoven with wild rumors, and the false and sensational statements quoted from <HI REND="italics">The California Star</HI>
187.sgm:<P>The language employed in description seemed to us so coarse and brutal that we could not forgive its injustice to the living, and to the memory of the dead.  We could but feel that had simple facts been stated, there would have been no harrowing criticism on account of long unburied corpses found in the lake cabins.  Nor would the sight of mutilated dead have suggested that the starving survivors had become "gloating cannibals, preying on the bodies of their companions."  Bare facts would have shown that the living had become too emaciated, too weak, to dig graves, or to lift or drag the dead up the narrow snow steps, even had open graves awaited their coming.  Aye, more, would have shown conclusively that mutilation of the bodies of those who had perished was never from choice, never cannibalistic, but dire necessity's last resort to ease torturing hunger, to prevent loss of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Fair statements would also have shown that the First Relief reached the camps with insufficient provision to meet the pressing needs of the unfortunate.  Consequently, it felt the urgency of haste to get as many refugees as possible to Bear Valley before storms should gather and delays defeat the purpose of its coming; that it divided what it could conscientiously spare among those whom it was obliged to leave, cut wood for the fires, and endeavored to give encouragement and hope to the desponding, but did not remain long enough to remove or bury the dead.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Each succeeding party actuated by like anxieties and precautions, departed with its charges, leaving pitiable destitution behind; leaving mournful conditions in camp, --conditions attributable as much to the work of time and atmospheric agencies as to the deplorable expedients to which the starving were again and again reduced.</P>
187.sgm:<P>With trembling hand Georgia turned the pages, from the sickening details of the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
187.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n35-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n35-1">See Appendix for extract from <HI REND="italics">The California Star</HI>
187.sgm:<P>A halt was called for the purpose of interring the remains.  Near the principal lake cabin I saw two bodies entire, except the abdomens had been cut open and entrails extracted.  Their flesh had been either wasted by famine or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The body of (Captain) George Donner was found in his camp about eight miles distant.  He had been carefully laid out by his wife, and a sheet was wrapped around the corpse.  This sad office was probably the last act she performed before visiting the camp of Keseberg.  He was buried by a party of men detailed for that purpose.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I knew the Donners well; their means in money and merchandise which they had brought with them were abundant.  Mr. Donner was a man of about sixty, and was at the time of leaving the United States a highly respectable citizen of Illinois, a farmer of independent means.  Mrs. Donner was considerably younger than her husband, an energetic woman of refined education.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After Georgia left me, I reopened the book, and pondered its revelations, many of them new to us both; and most of them I marked for later investigation.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Bryant found no human bones at Donner's camp.  His description of that camp was all-important, proving that my father's body had not been mutilated, but lay in his mountain hut three long months, sacred as when left by my little mother, who had watched over him to the pitiful end, had closed his eyes, folded his arms across his breast, and wrapped the burial sheet <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The book had also a copy of Colonel McKinstrey's letter to the General Relief Committee in San Francisco, reporting the return of the first rescuers with refugees.  In speaking of the destitution of the unfortunates in camp, he used the following words sympathically:</P>
187.sgm:<P>When the party arrived at camp, it was obliged to guard the little stock of provisions it had carried over the mountains on its back on foot, for the relief of the poor beings, as they were in such a starving condition that they would have immediately used up all the little store.  They even stole the buckskin strings from the party's snowshoes and ate them.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I at once recognized this friendly paragraph as the one which had had its kindness extracted, and been abbreviated and twisted into that cruel taunt which I had heard in my childhood from the lips of "Picayune Butler."</P>
187.sgm:<P>A careful study of Bryant's work increased my desire to sift that of Thornton, for I had been told that it not only contained the "Fallon Diary," but lengthier extracts from the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0046" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Photograph by Lynwood Abbott.<LB>THE CROSS AT DONNER LAKE</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>311</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Shortly before school reopened, Georgia and I spent the day with cousin Frances E. Bond; and in relating to her various incidents of our life, we spoke of the embarrassment we had felt in class the day that Mr. White asked every pupil whose ancestors had fought in the war of the American Revolution to rise, and Georgia and I were the only ones who remained seated.  My cousin regarded us a moment and then said:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Your Grandfather Eustis, although a widow's only son, and not yet sixteen years of age, enlisted when the Revolutionary War began.  He was a sentinel at Old South Church, and finally, a prisoner aboard the <HI REND="italics">Count d'Estang</HI>
187.sgm:<P>She would have stopped there, but we begged for all she knew about our mother's people, so she continued, mingling advice with information:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I would rather that you should not know the difference between their position in life and your own; yet, if you must know it, the Eustis and the Wheelwright families, from whom you are descended, are among the most substantial and influential of New England.  Their reputation, however, is not a prop for you to lean on.  They are on the Atlantic coast, you on the Pacific; so your future depends upon your own merit and exertions."</P>
187.sgm:<P>This revelation of lineage, nevertheless, was an added incentive to strive for higher things; an inheritance more enduring then our little tin box and black silk stockings which had belonged to mother.</P>
187.sgm:<P>An almost indescribable joy was mine when, at a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>312</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>To me, Captain Sutter had long been the embodiment of all that was good and grand; and now I longed to touch his hand and whisper to him gratitude too sacred for strangers' ears.  But the opportunity was withheld until riper years.</P>
187.sgm:<P>During our last term at school, Georgia's health was so improved that my life was more free of cares and aglow with fairer promises.  Miss Kate Robinson and I were rivals for school honors, and I studied as I never had studied before, for in the history, physiology, and rhetoric classes, she pressed me hard.  At the close of the session the record showed a tie.  Neither of us would accept determination by lot, and we respectfully asked the Honorable Board of Education to withhold the medal for that year.</P>
187.sgm:<P>About this time Georgia and I enjoyed a rare surprise.  On his return from business one day, Mr. Chamberlain announced that a distinguished-appearing young lawyer, S. O. Houghton by name, had stopped at the bank that afternoon, to learn our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Although letters had passed between us, up to this time we had known little of Mary's girlhood life.  After we parted, in 1847, she was carried through to San Francisco, then called Yerba Buena, where her maimed foot was successfully treated by the surgeon of the United States ship <HI REND="italics">Portsmouth</HI>
187.sgm:.  The citizens of that place purchased and presented to her the one hundred <HI REND="italics">vara</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Some weeks later, we took Mr. Houghton's report home to Elitha.  We also showed her a recent letter from Mary, sparkling with bright anticipations--anticipations never to be realized; for we girls were hardly settled on the ranch before a letter came from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Next, a note from San Jose informed us that Mrs. Mary M. Houghton died June 21, 1860, leaving a namesake, a daughter two weeks old, and that her brother had reached there in time for the funeral.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Of the seven Donners who had survived the disaster, she was the first called by death, and we deeply mourned her loss, and grieved because another little Mary was motherless.  The following August, Mr. Houghton made his first visit to Rancho de los Cazadores, and with fatherly pride, showed the likeness of his little girl, and promised to keep us all in touch with her by letter.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Houghton was closely identified with pioneer affairs, and we had many friends in common, especially among officers and soldiers of the Mexican War.  He had enlisted in Company A of Stevenson's Regiment of New York Volunteers when barely eighteen years of age; and sailed with it from his native State on the twenty-sixth of September, 1846.  After an eventful voyage by way of Cape Horn, the good ship <HI REND="italics">Loo Choo</HI>
187.sgm:, which bore him hither, cast anchor in the Bay of San Francisco, March 26, 1847, about the time the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVI</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>NEWS OF THE BRUNNERS--LETTERS FROM GRANDPA.</P>
187.sgm:<P>MORE than two years had elapsed since we had heard directly from Sonoma, when, on the day before Thanksgiving, 1860, Judge Robert Robinson and wife, of Sacramento, came to the ranch, and he, in his pleasing way, announced that he and Mrs. Robinson had a little story to tell, and a message to deliver, which would explain why they had arrived unexpectedly to spend the national holiday with us.  Then seating himself, he bowed to his wife, and listened in corroborative silence while she related the following incident:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Last Summer when the Judge went on his circuit, he took the carriage, and I accompanied him on his travels.  One day we stopped for dinner at the stage station between Sonoma and Santa Rosa.  After we had registered, the proprietor approached us, saying: `I see you are from Sacramento, and wonder if you know anything about a couple of young girls by the name of Downie, who spent some time there in the public school?'  He seemed disappointed when we replied, `We know Donners, but not Downies.'  `Well,' he continued, `they are strangers to me; but I am interested in them on account of their former connection <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"He introduced her as Mrs. Brunner, told her where we were from, and asked her to show us the picture of her little girls.  After shaking hands with us, she took the seat offered, and nervously drew from her reticule a handsomely inlaid case, which she opened and handed to us.  An expression of pride and tenderness lighted her worn features as Judge and I at once exclaimed, pointing to one and then the other, `Why, this is Georgia, and this, Eliza Donner.  We know them well and call them "our girls" in Sacramento!'"</P>
187.sgm:<P>"She sprang from her seat, and stood with one hand on Judge's shoulder, and the other on mine, saying earnestly,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"`Yes!  You do know my children?  Be they well, and doing well?'</P>
187.sgm:<P>"We had to talk fast in order to answer all her questions, and a number of listeners drew nearer and were considerably affected as the poor old soul said, `Please shake hands with me again for them, and tell them that you talked with their old Grandma <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"Judge and I assured her that we would deliver her messages in person, as soon as we should get time to look you up.  After dinner we saw her reseated in the stage, and the black silk reticule containing the picture was upon her lap as the stage carried her homeward."</P>
187.sgm:<P>We learned from them further that grandpa had been convicted of manslaughter and sentenced to San Quentin Prison for a term of eleven years, and that grandma had been granted a divorce, and awarded all the property, but was having great trouble because it had since become involved and was being frittered away in litigation.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The information given by the Robinsons increased our uneasiness for our trouble-worn friends.  Since the tragedy, Georgia and I had often spoken of them to one another, but to no one else.  We knew that few could understand them as we did, and we refrained from exposing them to unnecessary criticism.  Anxious as we were to comfort them, it was not in our power to do more than endeavor again to reach them by letter.  The first was despatched to grandma at Sonoma, the day after the departure of our guests; and shortly before Christmas I posted one to grandpa.  The former was answered quickly, and so pathetically that brother Ben offered to take us to Sonoma for a visit in the early Spring and then to see what could be done for grandma.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The letter to grandpa did not reach him until January 27, 1861, but his reply left San Quentin by Wells-Fargo Express on the twenty-eighth of January.  It was a brave letter, closing with the following mystifying paragraph:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Though I may be confined by prison walls, I wish those dear to me to be happy and joyous as they can, and I trust in God to open a way for me out of here, when I can see you all; which will make us all very happy.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Your affectionate grandfather,</P>
187.sgm:<P>CHRISTIAN BRUNNER.</P>
187.sgm:<P>His next communication contained a thrilling surprise which cleared the lurking mystery of his former letter, and expressed such joyous appreciation of his regained privileges that I once more quote his own words, from the letter yellowed by age, which lies before me.</P>
187.sgm:<P>SONOMA, <HI REND="italics">March 25, 1861</HI>
187.sgm:<P>DEAR ELIZA AND GEORGIA:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Your kind and friendly letter reached me about ten days ago, and I would have responded to the same right away, but waited a few days, so that I could give you some good news, over which you, my dear little girls, will surely rejoice, as you take so much interest in everything which myself concerns.  This news is that I am free again.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Last Tuesday I received, through the influence of friends, from the Governor of the State of California, a full pardon, and am again in Sonoma; and as soon as I have my business affairs in such a way settled that I can leave for a week or two, I will come up and see you.  I have much to tell you which you will better understand through a personal interview than by writing.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Yours friendly,</P>
187.sgm:<P>C. BRUNNER</P>
187.sgm:<P>Georgia and I felt this news was almost too good to be true.  We wondered how soon he would come to see <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"What next?" was the pertinent question uppermost in our minds.  We found the answer in <HI REND="italics">The Sacramento Daily Union</HI>
187.sgm:<P>This gratifying circumstance made our long intended trip to Sonoma unnecessary, especially since the reunited couple seemed to have retained the sympathy and loyalty of those who had known them in their days of prosperity and usefulness.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>ARRIVAL OF THE FIRST PONY EXPRESS.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I HAPPENED to be in Sacramento on the thirteenth day of April, 1861, and found the city full of irrespressible excitement.  Men on gayly caparisoned horses galloping hither and thither, unfurled flags, and a general air of expectancy on eager faces everywhere betokened an occasion of rare moment.  At times hats were swung aloft and cheers rang out tumultuously, only to be hushed by the disappointing murmur, "Not yet."  But an instant's quiet, and there was a mad rush of the populace toward Sutter's Fort; then again enthusiasm died, and the crowds ebbed back up J Street, which, some eight or ten feet higher than any other street in the city, extended straight as an arrow from the fort to where the bay steamer lightly hugged the water front, puffing and impatient to be off to San Francisco.</P>
187.sgm:<P>So the anxious waiting continued until the day was well on to its close, when suddenly, vociferous cheers again rent the air, and this time knew no cessation.  What a din!  With leap and outcry, all faced Sutter's Fort.  That was a spectacle to be remembered.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Pony!  The pony, hurrah, hurrah!  We see a dark <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>387</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The baffling problem is solved; the dream of years is realized; expeditious mail service with the East is an accomplished fact.</P>
187.sgm:<P>No wonder the people cheered!  It was a gigantic scheme, well conceived, magnificently executed.  Think of it, a stretch of two thousand miles of mountain wild and desert plain covered in twelve days!</P>
187.sgm:<P>How was it done?  Horses were tested and riders selected by weight and power of endurance.  The latter were boys in years--Bill Cody, the youngest, said to be only fourteen years of age.  The pouch was light, its contents were limited--but how gladly five dollars per letter was paid for those precious missives.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Every detail was carefully arranged.  The first mount left St. Joseph, Missouri, April 2; relay camps were established ten miles apart, with a horse ever in readiness for instantaneous exchange, and a fresh rider, mounted for the next run, was waiting at each successive hundred-mile station along the entire route.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Small wonder those pioneers were beside themselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVIII</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>WAR AND RUMORS OF WAR--MARRIAGE--SONOMA REVISITED.</P>
187.sgm:<P>THE Summer of 1861, now well advanced, was rife with war and rumors of war, and foreshadowings of coming events.  The old and the young were flushed with patriotism, each eager to help his country's cause.  I, remembering grandma's training, was ready to give my services to hospital work.  Earnest as was this desire, however, I was dissuaded from taking definite steps in that direction by those who knew that my slender physique and girlish appearance would defeat my purpose before the board of appointing physicians.  Moreover, Mr. Houghton's visits and frequent letters were changing my earlier plans for the future, and finally led to my naming the tenth of October, 1861, as our wedding day.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The ceremony was solemnized by the Rev. J. A. Benton, of Sacramento.  The event is also noteworthy as being the occasion of the first reunion of the five Donner sisters since their parting at Sutter's Fort in June, 1847.  Georgia's place was by my side, while Elitha, Leanna, and Frances each grouped with husband and children in front among friends, who had come to witness the plighting of vows between my hero <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Nature's wedding gift to us was a week of glorious weather, and its first five days we passed in San Francisco, the bustling, historic city, which I knew so well, yet had never seen before.  Then we boarded the afternoon boat up the bay, expecting to spend the evening and following morning in Sonoma with Grandpa and Grandma Brunner, but the vessel failed to reach Lakeside Landing in time to connect with the northbound coach.  This mischance necessitated our staying overnight at the only hostelry in the place.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The cry, "All aboard for Sonoma!" hurried us from the table next morning, and on reaching the sidewalk, we learned that the proprietor of the hotel had bespoken the two best seats in the coach for us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was too happy to talk until after we crossed the Sonoma River, shaded by grand old oak, sycamore, and laurel trees, and then onward, I was too happy to remain silent.  Before us lay the valley which brought back memories of my childhood, and I was in a mood to recall only the brightest, as we sped on to our destination.  My companion shared my delight and gave heed to each scene I called to his attention.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The coach stopped in front of the hotel, and we alighted upon almost the same spot from which I had climbed into the carriage to leave Sonoma six years earlier.  But, oh, how changed was everything!  One sweeping glance at the little town revealed the fact that it had passed its romantic age and lost its quickening spirit.  Closed were the homes of the old Spanish families; gone were the <HI REND="italics">caballeros</HI>
187.sgm: and the bright-eyed <HI REND="italics">sen&tilde;oritas</HI>
187.sgm:<P>"The carpet on this floor, the chairs in this room, and the pictures on these walls were in place in grandma's home when I left her--perhaps she is no longer living."</P>
187.sgm:<P>He left me again to make inquiry concerning those whom we had come to see, and ascertained that the Brunners had remarried for the purpose of facilitating the readjustment of their property rights, and of rescuing them from the hands of a scheming manager, who, with his family, was now living on the estate, and caring for grandma, but would not permit grandpa to enter the house.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After sending a messenger to find grandpa, I led the way to the open door of the old home, then slipped aside to let my husband seek admission.  He rapped.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I heard a side door open, uneven footsteps in the hall, and him saying quietly, "I think the old lady <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0047" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GENERAL VALLEJO'S CARRIAGE, BUILT IN ENGLAND IN 1832</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0048" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GENERAL VALLEJO'S OLD JAIL</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>She came and rested her head against my bosom and I folded my arms about her just as she had enfolded me when I went to her a lonely child yearning for love.  She stirred, then drew back, looked up into my face and asked, "Who be you?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>Touched by her wistful gaze, I exclaimed, "Grandma, don't you know me?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Be you Eliza?" she asked, and when I had given answer, she turned from me in deepest emotion, murmuring, "No, no, it can't be my little Eliza!"  She would have tottered away had I not supported her to a seat in the well-remembered living room and caressed her until she looked up through her tears, saying, "When you smile, you be my little Eliza, but when you look serious, I don't know you."</P>
187.sgm:<P>She inquired about Georgia, and how I came to be there without her.  Then she bade me call my husband, and thanked him for bringing me to her.  Forgetting all the faults and shortcomings that once had troubled her sorely, she spoke of my busy childhood and the place I had won in the affections of all who knew me.</P>
187.sgm:<P>A tender impulse took her from us a moment.  She returned, saying, "Now, you must not feel bad when you see what I have in the hand behind me," and drawing it forth continued, "This white lace veil which I bought at Sutter's Fort when your mother's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>She appeared proudly happy; but a flame of embarrassment burned my cheeks, as she handed him the picture wherein I showed to such disadvantage, with the question, "Now, does n't she look lovely?" and heard his affirmative reply.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Upon the clock lay a broken toy which had been mine, and in childlike ecstasy she spoke of it and of others which she had kept ever near her.  When invited to go to luncheon with us, she brought first her bonnet, next her shawl, for me to hold while she should don her best apparel for the occasion.  Instead of going directly, she insisted on choosing the longer road to town, that we might stop at Mrs. Lewis's to see if she and her daughter Sallie would recognize me.  Frequently as we walked along, she hastened in advance, and then faced about on the road to watch us draw near.  When we reached Mrs. Lewis's door, she charged me not to smile, and clapped her hands when both ladies appeared and called me by name.</P>
187.sgm:<P>As we were taking leave, an aged horseman drew rein at the gate and dismounted, and Mrs. Lewis looking up, exclaimed, "Why, there is Mr. Brunner!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>It did not take me long to meet him part way down the walk, nor did I shrink from the caress he gave me, nor know how much joy and pain that meeting evoked in him, even after he turned to Mr. Houghton saying <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>My husband's reply seemed to dispel the recollections which had made the reunion distressing, and grandpa led his horse and walked and talked with us until we reached the turn where he bade us leave him while he disposed of Antelope preparatory to joining us at luncheon.  Proceeding, we observed an increasing crowd in front of the hotel, massed together as if in waiting.  As we drew nearer, a way was opened for our passage, and friends and acquaintances stepped forth, shook hands with me and desired to be introduced to my husband.  It was apparent that the message which we had sent to grandpa early in the day, stating the hour we would be at the hotel, had spread among the people, who were now assembled for the purpose of meeting us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Strangers also were among them, for I heard the whispered answer many times, "Why, that is little Eliza Donner, who used to live with the Brunners, and that is Mr. Houghton, her husband--they can only stay until two o'clock."  The hotel table, usually more than ample to accommodate its guests, was not nearly large enough for all who followed to the dining-room, so the smiling host placed another table across the end for many who had intended to lunch at home that day.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Meantime, our little party was seated, with Mr. Houghton at the head of the table, I at his right; grandpa opposite me, and grandma at my right.  She was supremely happy, would fold her hands in her lap and say, "If you please," and "Thank you," as I served her; and I was grateful that she claimed my attention, for grandpa's lips were mute.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He strove for calm, endeavoring to eat that he might the better conceal the unbidden tears which coursed down his cheeks.  Not until we reached a secluded retreat for our farewell talk, did his emotion express itself in words.  Grasping my husband's hand he said:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"My friend, I must leave you.  I broke bread and tasted salt with you, but I am too heartsick to visit, or to say good-bye.  You bring back my child, a bride, and I have no home to welcome her in, no wedding feast, or happiness to offer.  I must see and talk with her in the house of strangers, and it makes me suffer more than I can bear!  But before I go, I want you both to make me the promise that you will always work together, and have but one home, one purse, one wish in life, so that when you be old, you will not have to walk separately like we do.  You will not have bitter thoughts and blame one another."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Here grandma interrupted meekly, "I know I did wrong, but I did not mean to, and I be sorry."</P>
187.sgm:<P>The pause which followed our given promise afforded me the opportunity to clasp their withered hands together between mine, and gain from grandpa <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>My husband followed him from the room to bestow the sympathy and encouragement which a strong man can give to a desponding one.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When the carriage was announced, which would take us to Benicia in time to catch the Sacramento steamer to San Francisco, I tied on grandma's bonnet, pinned her shawl around her shoulders, and told her that we would take her home before proceeding on our way, but she crossed her hands in front and artlessly whispered:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"No; I'd like to stay in town a while to talk with friends; but I thank you just the same, and shall not forget that I am to go to you, after you be settled in the new home, and his little daughter has learned to call you `mother.'"</P>
187.sgm:<P>We left her standing on the hotel piazza, smiling and important among the friends who had waited to see us off; but grandpa was nowhere in sight.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The steamer was at the landing when we reached Benicia so we hurriedly embarked and found seats upon the deck overlooking the town.  As the moon-light glistened on the white spray which encircled our departing boat, the sound of the Angelus came softly, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX</HEAD>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Though the mills of God grind slowly, yet they grind exceeding small;<LB>Though with patience He stands waiting, with exactness grinds He all.</HI>
187.sgm:<P>FRIEDRICH VON LOGAU.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>335</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>I</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>ARTICLES PUBLISHED IN <HI REND="italics">The California Star</HI>
187.sgm:<P>IN honor to the State that cherishes the landmark; in justice to history which is entitled to the truth; in sympathetic fellowship with those who survived the disaster; and in reverent memory of those who suffered and died in the snowbound camps of the Sierra Nevadas, I refute the charges of cruelty, selfishness, and inhumanity which have been ascribed to the Donner Party.</P>
187.sgm:<P>In this Appendix I set forth some of the unwarranted statements to which frequent reference has been made in the foregoing pages, that they may be examined and analyzed, and their utter unreliability demonstrated by comparison with established facts and figures.  These latter data, for the sake of brevity, are in somewhat statistical form.  A few further incidents, which I did not learn of or understand until long after they occurred, are also related.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The accounts of weather conditions, of scarcity of food and fuel, also the number of deaths in the camps before the first of March, 1847, are verified by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>336</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The following article, which originally appeared in <HI REND="italics">The California Star</HI>
187.sgm:<P>A more shocking scene cannot be imagined than was witnessed by the party of men who went to the relief of the unfortunate emigrants in the California Mountains.  The bones of those who had died and been devoured by the miserable ones that still survived were around their tents and cabins; bodies of men, women, and children with half the flesh torn from them lay on every side.  A woman sat by the side of the body of her dead husband cutting out his tongue; the heart she had already taken out, broiled, and eaten.  The daughter was seen eating the father; and the mother, that [ <HI REND="italics">viz</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Calculations were coldly made, as they sat around their gloomy camp fires, for the next succeeding meals.  Various expedients were devised to prevent the dreadful crime of murder, but they finally resolved to kill those who had least claims to longer existence.  Just at this moment some of them died, which afforded the rest temporary relief.  Some sank into the arms of death cursing God for their miserable fate, while the last whisperings of others were prayers and songs of praise to the Almighty.  After the first few deaths, but the one all-absorbing thought of individual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>337</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>So changed had the emigrants become that when the rescuing party arrived with food, some of them cast it aside, and seemed to prefer the putrid human flesh that still remained.  The day before the party arrived, one emigrant took the body of a child about four years of age in bed with him and devoured the whole before morning; and the next day he ate another about the same age, before noon.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This article, one of the most harrowing to be found in print, spread through the early mining-camps, and has since been quoted by historians and authors as an authentic account of scenes and conduct witnessed by the first relief corps to Donner Lake.  It has since furnished style and suggestion for other nerve-racking stories on the subject, causing keener mental suffering to those vitally concerned than words can tell.  Yet it is easily proved to be nothing more or less than a perniciously sensational newspaper production, too utterly false, too cruelly misleading, to merit credence.  Evidently, it was written without malice, but in ignorance, and by some warmly clad, well nourished person, who did not know the humanizing effect of suffering and sorrow, and who may not have talked with either a survivor or a rescuer of the Donner Party.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When the Donner Party ascended the Sierra Nevadas on the last day of October, 1846, it comprised eighty-one souls; namely, Charles Berger,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1a">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Patrick Breen, Margaret Breen (his wife), John Breen, Edward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>338</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:Breen, Patrick Breen, Jr., Simon Breen, James Breen, Peter Breen, Isabella Breen, Jacob Donner, <ANCHOR ID="na1-1b">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:  Elizabeth Donner<ANCHOR ID="na1-1c">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: (his wife), William Hook,<ANCHOR ID="na1-2">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Solomon Hook, George Donner, Jr., Mary Donner, Isaac Donner,<ANCHOR ID="na1-2a">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Lewis Donner,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1d">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Samuel Donner,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1e">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: George Donner, Sr.,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1r">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Tamsen Donner<ANCHOR ID="na1-1f">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: (his wife), Elitha Donner, Leanna C. Donner, Frances Eustis Donner, Georgia Anna Donner, Eliza Poor Donner, Patrick Doland,<ANCHOR ID="na1-2b">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: John Denton,<ANCHOR ID="na1-2c">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Milton Elliot,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1g">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: William Eddy, Eleanor (his wife), Margaret Eddy,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1h">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: and James Eddy,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1i">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Jay Fosdick<ANCHOR ID="na1-2d">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: and Sarah Fosdick (his wife), William Foster, Sarah Foster (his wife) and George Foster<ANCHOR ID="na1-1j">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Franklin W. Graves, Sr.,<ANCHOR ID="na1-2e">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Elisabeth Graves<ANCHOR ID="na1-2f">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: (his wife), Mary Graves, William C. Graves, Eleanor Graves, Lovina Graves, Nancy Graves, Jonathan B. Graves, Franklin W. Graves, Jr.,<ANCHOR ID="na1-2g">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: and Elizabeth Graves, Jr., Noah James, Lewis S. Keseberg, Philippine Keseberg (his wife), Ada Keseberg<ANCHOR ID="na1-2h">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: and Lewis S. Keseberg, Jr.,<ANCHOR ID="na1-2i">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Mrs. Lovina Murphy<ANCHOR ID="na1-2j">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: (a widow), John Landrum Murphy,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1k">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Lemuel Murphy,<ANCHOR ID="na1-2k">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Mary Murphy, William G. Murphy and Simon Murphy, Mrs. Amanda Mcutchen and Harriet McCutchen,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1l">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Mrs. Harriet Pike (widow), Nioma Pike and Catherine Pike,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1m">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Mrs. Margaret Reed, Virginia Reed, Martha J. Reed, James F. Reed, Jr., and Thomas K. Reed, Joseph Rhinehart,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1n">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Charles Stanton,<ANCHOR ID="na1-2l">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: John Baptiste Trubode, August Spitzer,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1o">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: James Smith,<ANCHOR ID="na1-1p">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Samuel Shoemaker, Bailis Williams<ANCHOR ID="na1-1q">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: and Eliza Williams (his sister), Mrs.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na1-1a na1-1b na1-1c na1-1d na1-1e na1-1f na1-1g na1-1h na1-1i na1-1j na1-1k na1-1l na1-1m na1-1n na1-1o na1-1p na1-1q na1-1r">Died while in the mountain camps.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na1-2a na1-2b na1-2c na1-2d na1-2e na1-2f na1-2g na1-2h  na1-2i na1-2j na1-2k na1-2l">Died <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Stated in brief, the result of the disaster to the party in the mountains was as follows:</P>
187.sgm:<P>The total number of deaths was thirty-six, as follows: fourteen in the mountains while <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<P>The total number who reached the settlement was forty-five; of whom five were men, eight were women, and thirty-two were children.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The family of James F. Reed and that of Patrick Breen survived in unbroken numbers.  The only other family in which all the children reached the settlement was that of Captain George Donner.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Fourteen of the eighty-one souls constituting the Donner Party were boys and girls between the ages of nineteen and twelve years; twenty-six ranged from twelve years to a year and a half; and seven were nursing babes.  There were only thirty-four adults, --twenty-two men and twelve women.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Of the first-named group, eleven survived the disaster.  One youth died <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<P>Twenty of the second-named group also reached the settlements.  One died <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm: with the First Relief; two at Donner's Camp (in March, 1847); two at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Two of the seven babes lived, and five perished at the Lake Camp.  They hungered and slowly perished after famine had dried the natural flow, and infant lips had drawn blood from maternal breasts.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The first nursling's life to ebb was that of Lewis Keseberg, Jr., on January 24, 1847.<ANCHOR ID="na1-3">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<P>Harriet McCutchen, whose mother had struggled on with the Forlorn Hope in search of succor, breathed her last on the second of February, while lying upon the lap of Mrs. Graves; and the snow being deep and hard frozen, Mrs. Graves bade her son William make the necessary excavation near the wall within their cabin, and they buried the body there, where the mother should find it upon her return.  Catherine Pike died in the Murphy cabin a few hours before the arrival of food from the settlement and was buried on the morning of February 22.<ANCHOR ID="na1-4">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na1-3">Report brought by John Baptiste to Donner's Camp, after one of his trips to the lake.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na1-4">Incident related by William C. Graves, after he reached the settlement.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>Those were the only babes that perished before relief came.  Does not the fact that so many young children survived the disaster refute the charges of parental selfishness and inhumanity, and emphasize the immeasurable self-sacrifice, love, and care that kept so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0049" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>Photograph by Lynwood Abbott.<LB>ALDER CREEK</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DENNISON'S EXCHANGE AND THE PARKER HOUSE, SAN FRANCISCO</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Mrs. Elinor Eddy, who passed away in the Murphy cabin on the seventh of February, was the only wife and mother called by death, in either camp, before the arrival of the First Relief.  Both Patrick Breen's diary and William G. Murphy, then a lad of eleven years, assert that Mrs. Eddy and little Margaret, her only daughter, were buried in the snow near the Murphy cabin on the ninth of February.  Furthermore, the Breen Diary and the death-list of the Donner Party show that not a husband or father died at the Lake Camp during the entire period of the party's imprisonment in the mountains.<ANCHOR ID="na1-5">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na1-5">Franklin W. Graves and Jay Fosdick perished in December, 1846, while <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<P>How, then, could that First Relief, or either of the other relief parties see--how could they even have imagined that they saw--"wife sitting at the side of her husband who had just died, mutilating his body," or "the daughter eating her father," or "mother that of her children," or" children that of father and mother"?  The same questions might be asked regarding the other revolting scenes pictured by the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
187.sgm:<P>The seven men who first braved the dangers of the icy trail in the work of rescue came over a trackless, rugged waste of snow, varying from ten to forty feet in depth,<ANCHOR ID="na1-6">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: and approached the camp-site near the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na1-6">One of the stumps near the Breen-Graves cabin, cut for fuel while the snow was deepest, was found by actual measurement to be twenty-two feet in height.  It is still standing.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>True, their hands were grimy, their clothing tattered, and the floors were bestrewn with hair from hides and bits of broken bullock bones; but of connubial, parental, or filial inhumanity, there were no signs.</P>
187.sgm:<P>With what deep emotion those seven heroic men contemplated the conditions in camp may be gathered from Mr. Aguilla Glover's own notes, published in Thornton's work:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Feb. 19, 1847.  The unhappy survivors were, in short, in a condition most deplorable, and beyond power of language to describe, or imagination to conceive.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The emigrants had not yet commenced eating the dead.  Many of the sufferers had been living on bullock hides for weeks and even that sort of food was so nearly exhausted that they were about to dig up from the snow the bodies of their companions for the purpose of prolonging their wretched lives.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Thornton's work contains the following statement by a member of one of the relief corps:</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>On the morning of February 20,<ANCHOR ID="na1-7">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: Racine Tucker, John Rhodes, and Riley Moutrey went to the camp of George Donner eight miles distant, taking a little jerked beef.  These sufferers (eighteen) had but one hide remaining.  They had determined that upon consuming this they would dig from the snow the bodies of those who had died from starvation.  Mr. Donner was helpless, Mrs. Donner was weak but in good health, and might have come to the settlement with this party; yet she solemnly but calmly determined to remain with her husband and perform for him the last sad offices of affection and humanity.  And this she did in full view that she must necessarily perish by remaining behind.  The three men returned the same day with seven refugees<ANCHOR ID="na1-8">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na1-7">Thornton's dates are one day later than those in the Breen Diary.  Breen must have lost a day <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na1-8">The First Relief Corps took six, instead of seven, refugees from Donner Camp, and set out from the lake cabins with twenty-three, instead of twenty-four, refugees.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>John Baptiste Trubode has distinct recollections of the arrival and departure of Tucker's party, and of the amount of food left by it.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He said to me in that connection:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"To each of us who had to stay in camp, one of the First Relief Party measured a teacupful of flour, two small biscuits, and thin pieces of jerked beef, each piece as long as his first finger, and as many pieces as he could encircle with that first finger and thumb brought together, end to end.  This was all that could be spared, and to last until the next party could reach us.</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Our outlook was dreary and often hopeless.  I don't know what I would have done sometimes without the comforting talks and prayers of those two women, your mother and Aunt Elizabeth.  Then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:evenings after you children went to sleep, Mrs. George Donner would read to me from the book<ANCHOR ID="na1-9">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na1-9">The journal, herbarium, manuscript, and drawings of Mrs. George Donner were not among the goods delivered at the Fort by the Fallon Party, and no trace of them was ever found.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>"I dug in the snow for the dead cattle, but found none, and we had to go back to our saltless old bullock hide, days before the Second Relief got to us, on the first of March."</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>THE REED-GREENWOOD PARTY, OR SECOND RELIEF--REMINISCENCES OF WILLIAM G. MURPHY--CONCERNING NICHOLAS CLARK AND JOHN BAPTISTE.</P>
187.sgm:<P>ON the third of March, 1847, the Reed-Greenwood, or Second Relief Corps (excepting Nicholas Clark) left camp with the following refugees: Patrick Breen, Margaret Breen (his wife), Patrick Breen, Jr., Simon Breen, James Breen, Peter Breen, Isabella Breen, Solomon Hook, Mary Donner, Isaac Donner, Mrs. Elizabeth Graves, Nancy Graves, Jonathan B. Graves, Franklin W. Graves, Jr., Elizabeth Graves, Jr., Martha J. Reed, and Thomas K. Reed.  The whole party, as has been already told, were forced into camp about ten miles below the summit on the west side of the Sierras, by one of the fiercest snow-storms of the season.</P>
187.sgm:<P>All credit is due Mr. and Mrs. Breen for keeping the nine helpless waifs left with them at Starved Camp alive until food was brought them by members of the Third Relief Party.  Mr. Breen's much prized diary does not cover the experiences of that little band in their struggle across the mountains, but concludes two days before they started.  After he and his family succeeded in reaching the Sacramento Valley, he gave <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:his diary (kept at Donner Lake) to Colonel George McKinstry for the purpose of assisting him in making out his report to Captain Hall, U.S.N., Sloop of War <HI REND="italics">Warren</HI>
187.sgm:<P>James F. Reed of the Reed-Greenwood Party, the second to reach the emigrants, has been adversely criticised from time to time, because he and six of his men returned to Sutter's Fort in March with no more than his own two children and Solomon Hook, a lad of twelve years, who had said that he could and would walk, and did.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Careful investigation, however, proves the criticism hasty and unfair.  True, Mr. Reed went over the mountains with the largest and best equipped party sent out, ten well furnished, able-bodied men.  But returning he left one man at camp to assist the needy emigrants.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The seventeen refugees whom he and nine companions brought over the summit comprised three weak, wasted adults, and fourteen emaciated young children.  The prospect of getting them all to the settlement, even under favorable circumstances, had seemed doubtful at the beginning of the journey.  Alas, one of the heaviest snow-storms of the season overtook them on the bleak mountain-side ten miles from the tops of Sierra Nevadas.  It continued many days.  Food gave out, death took toll.  The combined efforts of the men could not do more than provide fuel and keep the fires.  All became exhausted.  Rescuers and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>In those days of affliction, it were well nigh impossible to say who was most afflicted; still, it would seem that no greater destitution and sorrow could have been meted to any one than fell to the lot of Mrs. Murphy at the lake camp.  The following incidents were related by her son, William G. Murphy, in an address to a concourse of people assembled on the shore of Donner Lake in February, 1896:</P>
187.sgm:<P>I was a little more than eleven years of age when we all reached these mountains, and that one-roomed shanty was built, where so many of us lived, ate, and slept.  No!--Where so many of us slept, starved, and died!  It was constructed for my mother and seven children (two being married) and her three grandchildren, and William Foster, husband of her daughter Sarah.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Early in December when the Forlorn Hope was planned, we were almost out of provisions; and my mother took the babes from the arms of Sarah and Harriet (Mrs. Pike) and told them that she would care for their little ones, and they being young might with William (Foster) and their brother Lemuel reach the settlement and return with food.  And the four became members of that hapless band of fifteen.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. Eddy being its leader, his wife and her two children came to live with us during his absence.  When my eldest brother, on whom my mother depended, was very weak and almost at death's door, my mother went to the Breens and begged a little meat, just a few mouthfuls--I remember well that little piece of meat!  My mother gave half of it to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Catherine Pike, my absent sister's baby, died on the eighteenth of February, only a few hours before the arrival of the First Relief.  Thus the inmates of our shanty had been reduced to my mother, my sister Mary, brother Simon, Nioma Pike, Georgie Foster, myself, and little Jimmy Eddy.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When the rescuers decided they would carry out Nioma Pike, and that my sister Mary and I should follow, stepping in the tracks made by those who had snowshoes, strength seemed to come, so that I was able to cut and carry to my mother's shanty what appeared to me a huge pile of wood.  It was green, but it was all I could get.</P>
187.sgm:<P>We left mother there with three helpless little ones to feed on almost nothing, yet in the hope that she might keep them alive until the arrival of the next relief.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Many of the survivors remember that after having again eaten food seasoned with salt, the boiled, salt-less hides produced nausea and could not be retained by adult or child.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I say with deep reverence that flesh of the dead was used to sustain the living in more than one cabin near the lake.  But it was not used until after the pittance of food left by the First Relief had long been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>349</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Both were widows; the one had three, and the other four helpless children to save.  Was it culpable, or cannibalistic to seek and use the only life-saving means left them?  Were the acts and purposes of their unsteady hands and aching hearts less tender, less humane than those of the lauded surgeons of to-day, who infuse human blood from living blood from living bodies into the arteries of those whom naught else can save, or who strip skin from the bodies that feel pain, to cover wounds which would otherwise prove fatal?</P>
187.sgm:<P>John Baptiste Trubode and Nicholas Clark, of the Second Relief, were the last men who saw my father alive.  In August, 1883, the latter came to my home in San Jose.</P>
187.sgm:<P>This was our second meeting since that memorable morning of March 2, 1847, when he went in pursuit of the wounded mother bear, and was left behind by the relief party.  We spoke long and earnestly of our experience in the mountains, and he wished me to deny the statement frequently made that, "Clark carried a pack of plunder and a heavy shotgun from Donner's Camp and left a child there to die."  This I can do positively, for when the Third Relief Party took Simon Murphy and us "three little Donner girls" from the mountain camp, not a living being remained, except Mrs. Murphy and Keseberg at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>350</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>The Spring following my interview with Nicholas Clark, John Baptiste came to San Jose, and Mr. McCutchen brought him to talk with me.  John, always a picturesque character, had become a hop picker in hop season, and a fisherman the rest of the year.  He could not restrain the tears which coursed down his bronzed cheeks as he spoke of the destitution and suffering in the snow-bound camps; of the young unmarried men who had been so light-hearted on the plains and brave when first they faced the snows.  His voice trembled as he told how often they had tried to break through the great barriers, and failed; hunted, and found nothing; fished, and caught nothing; and when rations dwindled to strips of beef hide, their strength waned, and death found them ready victims.  He declared,</P>
187.sgm:<P>The hair and bones found around the Donner fires were those of cattle.  No human flesh was used by either Donner family.  This I know, for I was there all winter and helped get all the wood and food we had, after starvation threatened us.  I was about sixteen years old at the time.  Our four men died early in December and were buried in excavations in the side of the mountain.  Their bodies were never disturbed.  As the snows deepened to ten and twelve feet, we lost track of their location.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When saying good-bye, he looked at me wistfully and exclaimed: "Oh, little Eliza, sister mine, how I suffered and worked to help keep you alive.  Do you think there was ever colder, stronger winds than them that whistled and howled around our camp in the Sierras?"</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>420</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>351</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>He returned the next day, and in his quaint, earnest way expressed keenest regret that he and Clark had not remained longer in camp with my father and mother.</P>
187.sgm:<P>"I did not feel it so much at first; but after I got married and had children of my own, I often fished and cried, as I thought of what I done, for if we two men had stayed, perhaps we might have saved that little woman."</P>
187.sgm:<P>His careworn features lightened as I bade him grieve no more, for I realized that he was but a boy, over-burdened with a man's responsibilities, and had done his best, and that nobly.  Then I added what I have always believed, that no one was to blame for the misfortunes which overtook us in the mountains.  The dangers and difficulties encountered by reason of taking the Hastings Cut-off had all been surmounted--two weeks more and we should have reached our destination in safety.  Then came the snow!  Who could foresee that it would come earlier, fall deeper, and linger longer, that season than for thirty years before?  Everything that a party could do to save itself was done by the Donner Party; and certainly everything that a generous, sympathizing people could do to save the snow-bound was done by the people of California.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>352</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>THE REPORT OF THOMAS FALLON--DEDUCTIONS--STATEMENT OF EDWIN BRYANT--PECULIAR CIRCUMSTANCES.</P>
187.sgm:<P>THE following is the report of Thomas Fallon, leader of the fourth party to the camps near Donner Lake:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Left Johnson's on the evening of April 13, and arrived at the lower end of Bear River Valley on the fifteenth.  Hung our saddles upon trees, and sent the horses back, to be returned again in ten days to bring us in again.  Started on foot, with provisions for ten days and travelled to head of the valley, and camped for the night; snow from two to three feet deep.  Started early in the morning of April 15 and travelled twenty-three miles.  Snow ten feet deep.</P>
187.sgm:<P>April 17.  Reached the cabins between twelve and one o'clock.  Expected to find some of the sufferers alive.  Mrs. Donner and Keseberg<ANCHOR ID="na3-1">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm: in particular.  Entered the cabins, and a horrible scene presented itself.  Human bodies terribly mutilated, legs, arms, and skulls scattered in every direction.  One body supposed to be that of Mrs. Eddy lay near the entrance, the limbs severed off, and a frightful gash in the skull.  The flesh was nearly consumed from the bones, and a painful stillness pervaded the place.  The supposition was, that all were dead, when a sudden shout revived our hopes, and we flew in the direction of the sound.  Three Indians who had been hitherto concealed, started from the ground, fled at our approach, leaving behind their bows and arrows.  We delayed two hours in searching the cabins, during which we were obliged to witness sights from which we would have fain turned away, and which are too dreadful to put on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>353</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na3-1">Should be spelled Keseberg.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>April 18.  Commenced gathering the most valuable property, suitable for our packs; the greater portion had to be dried.  We then made them up, and camped for the night.</P>
187.sgm:<P>April 19.  This morning Foster, Rhodes, and J. Foster started, with small packs, for the first cabins, intending from thence to follow the trail of the person that had left the morning previous.  The other three remained behind to cache and secure the goods necessarily left there.  Knowing the Donners had a considerable sum of money we searched diligently but were unsuccessful.  The party for the cabins were unable to keep the trail of the mysterious personage, owing to the rapid melting of the snow; they therefore went directly to the cabins and upon entering discovered Keseberg lying down amid the human bones, and beside him a large pan full of fresh liver and lights.  They asked him what had become of his companions; whether they were alive, and what had become of Mrs. Donner.  He answered them by stating that they were all dead.  Mrs. Donner, he said, had, in attempting to cross from one cabin to another, missed the trail and slept out one night; that she came to his camp the next night very much fatigued.  He made her a cup of coffee, placed her in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>354</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Before leaving the settlement, the wife of Keseberg had told us that we would find but little money about him; the men therefore said to him that they knew he was lying to them, and that he was well aware of the place of concealment of the Donners' money.  He declared before Heaven he knew nothing concerning it, and that he had not the property of any one in his possession.  They told him that to lie to them would effect nothing; that there were others back at the cabins who unless informed of the spot where the treasure was hidden would not hesitate to hang him upon the first tree.  Their threats were of no avail.  He still affirmed his ignorance and innocence.  Rhodes took him aside and talked to him kindly, telling him that if he would give the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>355</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>April 20.  We all started for Bear River Valley, with packs of one hundred pounds each; our provisions being nearly consumed, we were obliged to make haste away.  Came within a few hundred yards of the cabins and halted to prepare breakfast, after which we proceeded to the cabin.  I now asked Keseberg if he was willing to disclose to me where he had concealed that money.  He turned somewhat pale and again protested his innocence.  I said to him, "Keseberg, you know well where Donner's money is, and damn you, you shall tell me!  I am not going to multiply words with you or say but little about it.  Bring me that rope!"  He then arose from his hot soup and human flesh, and begged me not to harm him; he had not the money nor goods; the silk clothing and money which were found upon him the previous day and which he then declared belonged to his wife, he now said were the property of others in California.  I told him I did not wish to hear more from him, unless he at once informed us where he had concealed the money of those orphan children; then producing the rope I approached him.  He became frightened, but I bent the rope around his neck and as I tightened the cord, and choked him, he cried out that he would confess all upon release.  I then permitted him to arise.  He still seemed inclined to be obstinate and made much delay in talking.  Finally, but without evident reluctance, he led the way back to Donner's Camp, about ten miles distant, accompanied by Rhodes and Tucker.  While they were absent we moved all our packs over the lower end of the lake, and made all ready for a start when they should return.  Mr. Foster went down to the cabin of Mrs. Murphy, his mother-in-law, to see if any property remained there worth collecting and securing; he found the body of young Murphy who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>356</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Tucker and Rhodes came back the next morning, bringing $273.00 that had been cached by Keseberg, who after disclosing to them the spot, returned to the cabin.  The money had been hidden directly underneath the projecting limb of a large tree, the end of which seemed to point precisely to the treasure buried in the earth.  On their return and passing the cabin, they saw the unfortunate man within devouring the remaining brains and liver left from his morning repast.  They hurried him away, but before leaving, he gathered together the bones and heaped them all in a box he used for the purpose, blessed them and the cabin and said, "I hope God will forgive me what I have done.  I could not help it; and I hope I may get to heaven yet!"  We asked Keseberg why he did not use the meat of the bullock and horse instead of human flesh.  He replied he had not seen them.  We then told him we knew better, and asked him why the meat on the chair had not been consumed.  He said, "Oh, it is too dry eating; the liver and lights were a great deal better, and brains made good soup!"  We then moved on and camped by the lake for the night.</P>
187.sgm:<P>April 21.  Started for Bear River Valley this morning.  Found the snow from six to eight feet deep; camped at Yuma River for the night.  On the twenty-second travelled down Yuma about eighteen miles, and camped at the head of Bear River Valley.  On the twenty-fifth moved down to lower end of the valley, met our horses, and came in.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The account by Fallon regarding the fate of the last of the Donners in their mountain camp was the same as that which Elitha and Leanna had heard and had endeavored to keep from us little ones at Sutter's Fort.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0051" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW IN THE GROUNDS OF THE HOUGHTON HOME IN SAN JOSE</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<illus entity="a187-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE HOUGHTON RESIDENCE IN SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>357</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>It is self-evident, however, that the author of those statements did not contemplate that reliable parties<ANCHOR ID="na3-2">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na3-2">General Kearney and escort, accompanied by Edwin Bryant.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>It is also plain that the Fallon Party did not set out expecting to find any one alive in the mountains, otherwise would it not have taken more provisions than just enough to sustain its own men ten days?  Would it not have ordered more horses to meet it at the lower end of Bear Valley for the return trip?  Had it planned to find and succor survivors would it have taken it for granted that all had perished, simply because there was no one in the lake cabins, and would it have delayed two precious hours in searching the lake camp for valuables before proceeding to Donner's Camp?</P>
187.sgm:<P>Had the desire to rescue been uppermost in mind, would not the sight of human foot-tracks on the snow half way between the two camps have excited hope, instead of "suspicion," and prompted some of the party to pursue the lone wanderer with kindly intent?  Does not each succeeding day's entry in that journal disclose the party's forgetfulness of its declared mission to the mountains?  Can any palliating excuse be urged why those men did not share with Keseberg the food they had brought, instead of permitting him to continue that which famine had forced upon him, and which later they so righteously condemned?</P>
187.sgm:<P>Is there a single strain of humanity, pathos, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>358</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Here is the statement of Edwin Bryant, who with General Kearney and escort, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
187.sgm:<P>The body of (Captain) George Donner was found in his own camp about eight miles distant.  He had been carefully laid out by his wife, and a sheet was wrapped around the corpse.  This sad office was probably the last act she performed before visiting the camp of Keseberg.<ANCHOR ID="na3-3">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na3-3">McGlashan's "History of the Donner Party" (1879).</NOTE>
187.sgm:<P>After considering what had been published by <HI REND="italics">The California Star</HI>
187.sgm:, by Bryant, Thornton, Mrs. Farnham, and others, I could not but realize Keseberg's peculiarly helpless situation.  Without a chance to speak in his own defence, he had been charged, tried, and adjudged guilty by his accusers; and an excited people had accepted the verdict without question.  Later, at Captain Sutter's suggestion, Keseberg brought action for slander against Captain Fallon and party.  The case was tried before Alcalde Sinclair,<ANCHOR ID="na3-4">*</ANCHOR>
187.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="na3-4">The old Alcalde records are not in existence, but some of the survivors of the party remember the circumstance; and Mrs. Samuel Kybert, now of Clarkville, Eldorado County, was a witness at the trial.  C. F. McGlashan, 1879.</NOTE>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>359</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>There were other peculiar circumstances connected with this much accused man which were worthy of consideration, notably the following: If, as reported, Keseberg was in condition to walk to the settlement, why did the First Relief permit him to remain in camp consuming rations that might have saved others?</P>
187.sgm:<P>Messrs. Reed and McCutchen of the Second Relief knew the man on the plains, and had they regarded him as able to travel, or a menace to life in camp, would they have left him there to prey on women and little children, like a wolf in the fold?</P>
187.sgm:<P>Messrs. Eddy and Foster of the Third Relief had travelled with him on the plains, starved with him in camp, and had had opportunities of talking with him upon their return to the cabins too late to rescue Jimmy Eddy and Georgia Foster.  Had they believed that he had murdered the children, would those two fathers and the rest of their party have taken Simon Murphy and the three little Donner girls and left Keseberg <HI REND="italics">alive</HI>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>360</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV</HEAD>
187.sgm:<P>LEWIS KESEBERG</P>
187.sgm:<P>IN March, 1879, while collecting material for his "History of the Donner Party," Mr. C. F. McGlashan, of Truckee, California, visited survivors at San Jose, and coming to me, said:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Houghton, I am sorry that I must look to you and your sisters for answers to the most delicate and trying questions relating to this history.  I refer to the death of your mother at the hand of Keseberg."</P>
187.sgm:<P>He was so surprised and shocked as I replied, "I do not believe that Keseberg was responsible for my mother's death," that he interrupted me, lost for a moment the manner of the impartial historian, and with the directness of a cross-questioning attorney asked:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Is it possible that Mrs. George Donner's daughter defends the murderer of her mother?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>And when I replied, "We have no proofs.  My mother's body was never found," he continued earnestly,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Why, I have enough evidence in this note book to convict that monster, and I can do it, or at least arouse such public sentiment against him that he will have to leave the State."</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>361</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Very closely he followed my answering words, "Mr. McGlashan, from little girlhood I have prayed that Lewis Keseberg some day would send for me and tell me of my mother's last hours, and perhaps give a last message left for her children, and I firmly believe that my prayer will be granted, and I would not like you to destroy my opportunity.  You have a ready pen, but it will not be used in exact justice to all the survivors, as you have promised, if you finish your work without giving Keseberg also a chance to speak for himself."</P>
187.sgm:<P>After a moment's reflection, he replied, "I am amazed; but your wish in this matter shall be respected."</P>
187.sgm:<P>The following evening he wrote from San Francisco:</P>
187.sgm:<P>You will be glad to know that I have put Harry N. Morse's detective agency of Oakland upon the track of Keseberg, and if found, I mean to take steps to obtain his confession.</P>
187.sgm:<P>In less than a week after the foregoing, came a note from him which tells its own story.</P>
187.sgm:<P>SACRAMENTO, <HI REND="italics">Midnight, April 4, 1879</HI>
187.sgm:<P>MRS. E. P. HOUGHTON,</P>
187.sgm:<P>DEAR MADAM:--</P>
187.sgm:<P>Late as it is, I feel that I ought to tell you that I have spent the evening with Keseberg.  I have just got back, and return early to-morrow to complete my interview.  By merest accident, while tracing, as I supposed, the record of his death, I found a clue to his whereabouts.  After dark I drove six miles and found him.  At first he declined to tell me anything, but somehow I melted the mood with which he seemed enwrapped, and he talked freely.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He swears to me that he did not murder your mother.  He declares it so earnestly that I cannot doubt his veracity.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>362</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:To-morrow I intend plying him closely with questions, and by a rigid system of cross examination will detect the falsehood, if there is one, in his statement.  He gives chapter after chapter that others never knew.  I cannot say more to-night, but desire that you write me (at the Cosmopolitan) any questions you might wish me to ask Keseberg, and if I have not already asked them, I will do so on my return from San Francisco.<HSEP>Yours respectfully,</P>
187.sgm:<P>C. F. McGLASHAN.</P>
187.sgm:<P>After his second interview with Keseberg and in response to my urgent appeal for full details of everything relating to my parents, Mr. McGlashan wrote:</P>
187.sgm:<P>I wish you could see him.  He will talk to either you or me at any time, unless other influences are brought to bear upon him.  If I send word for him to come to Sacramento, he will meet me on my return.  If you and your husband could be there on Thursday or Friday of this week, I could arrange an interview at the hotel that would be all you could wish.  I asked him especially if he would talk to you, and he said, "Yes."</P>
187.sgm:<P>I dared not tell you about my interview until I had your permission.  Even now, I approach the task tremblingly.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Your mother was not murdered.  Your father died, Keseberg thinks, about two weeks after you left.  Your mother remained with him until the last and laid him out tenderly, as you know.</P>
187.sgm:<P>The days--to Keseberg--were perfect blanks.  Mrs. Murphy died soon after your departure with Eddy, and he was left alone--alone in his cabin--alone with the dead bodies which he could not have lifted from the floor, because of his weakness, even had he desired.  The man sighs and shudders, and great drops of agony gather upon his brows as he endeavors to relate the details of those terrible days, or recall their horrors.  Loneliness, desolation was the chief element of horror.  Alone with the mutilated dead!</P>
187.sgm:<P>One night he sprang up in affright at the sound of something moving or scratching at a log outside his cabin.  It was some time before he could understand that it was wolves trying to get in.</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>363</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>One night, about two weeks after you left, a knock came at his door, and your mother entered.  To this lonely wretch her coming seemed like an angel's.  She was cold and wet and freezing, yet her first words were, that she must see her children.  Keseberg understood that she intended to start out that very night, and soon found that she was slightly demented.  She kept saying, "O God! I must see my children.  I must go to my children!"  She finally consented to wait until the morning, but was determined that nothing should then prevent her lonely journey.  She told Keseberg where her money was concealed, she made him solemnly promise that he would get the money and take it to her children.  She would not taste the food he had to offer.  She had not tasted human flesh, and would hardly consent to remain in his foul and hideous den.  Too weak and chilled to move, she finally sank down on the floor, and he covered her as best he could with blankets and feather bed, and made a fire to warm her; but it was of no avail, she had received her death-chill, and in the morning her spirit had passed heavenward.</P>
187.sgm:<P>I believe Keseberg tells the truth.  Your mother watched day and night by your father's bedside until the end.  At nightfall he ceased to breathe, and she was alone in the desolate camp, where she performed the last sad ministrations, and then her duty in the mountains was accomplished.  All the smothered yearnings of maternal love now burst forth with full power.  Out into the darkness and night she rushed, without waiting for the morning.  "My children, I must see my children!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>She arrived at Keseberg's cabin, overwrought mentally, overtaxed physically, and chilled by the freezing night air.  She was eager to set forth on her desperate journey without resting a moment.  I can see her as he described her, wringing her hands and exclaiming over and over again, "I must see my children!"</P>
187.sgm:<P>The story told by Mrs. Farnham and others about finding your mother's remains, and that of Thornton concerning the pail of blood, are unquestionably false.  She had been dead weeks, and Keseberg confessed to me that no part of her body was found by the relief (Fallon) party.</P>
187.sgm:<P>My friend, I have attempted to comply with your request.  More than once during this evening I have burst into tears.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>364</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Keseberg is a powerful man, six feet in height, with full bushy beard, thin brown locks, and high forehead.  He has blue eyes that look squarely at you while he talks.  He is sometimes absent-minded and at times seems almost carried away with the intensity of his misery and desolation.</P>
187.sgm:<P>He speaks and writes German, French, Spanish, and English; and his selection of words proves him a scholar.  When I first asked him to make a statement which I could reduce to writing he urged: "What is the use of making a statement?  People incline to believe the most horrible reports concerning a man; they will not credit what I say in my own defence.  My conscience is clear.  I am an old man, and am calmly awaiting my death.  God is my judge, and it long ago ceased to trouble me that people shunned and slandered me."</P>
187.sgm:<P>He finally consented to make the desired statement, and in speaking of your family he continued: "Some time after Mrs. George Donner's death, I thought I had gained sufficient strength to redeem the pledge I had made her before her death.  I went to Alder Creek Camp to get the money.  I had a difficult journey.  The wagons of the Donners were loaded with tobacco, powder, caps, school-books, shoes, and dry goods.  This stock was very valuable.  I spent the night there, searched carefully among the bales and bundles of goods, and found five hundred and thirty-one dollars.  Part of this sum was gold, part silver.  The silver I buried at the foot of a pine tree, a little way from camp.  One of the lower branches of another tree reached down close to the ground, and appeared to point to the spot.  I put the gold in my pocket, and started back to my cabin; got lost, and in crossing a little flat the snow suddenly gave way, and I sank down almost to my arm-pits.  After great exertion I raised myself out of a snow-covered stream, and went round on a hillside and continued my journey.  At dark, and completely exhausted, and almost dead, I came in sight of the Graves's cabin, and sometime after dark staggered into my own.  My clothes were wet, and the night was so cold that my garments were frozen stiff.  I did not build a fire nor get anything to eat, just rolled myself up in the bed-clothes, and shivered; finally fell asleep, and did not waken until late in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>436</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>365</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"I told them they ought to give me something to eat, and that I would talk with them afterwards; but no, they insisted that I should tell them about Donner's money.  I asked who they were, and where they came from, but they replied by threatening to kill me if I did not give up the money.  They threatened to hang or shoot me.  At last I told them that I had promised Mrs. Donner that I would carry her money to her children, and I proposed to do so, unless shown some authority by which they had a better claim.  This so exasperated them that they acted as though they were going to kill me.  I offered to let them bind me as a prisoner, and take me before Alcalde Sinclair at Sutter's Fort, and I promised that I would then tell all I knew about the money.  They would listen to nothing, however, and finally I told them where they would find the silver, and gave them the gold.  After I had done this they showed me a document from Alcalde Sinclair, by which they were to receive a certain proportion of all moneys and properties which they rescued.  Those men treated me with great unkindness.  Mr. Tucker was the only one who took my part or befriended me.  When they started over the mountains, each man carried two bales of goods.  They had silks, calicoes, and delaines from the Donners, and other articles of great value.  Each man would carry one bundle a little way, lay it down, and come back and get the other bundle.  In this way they passed over the snow three times.  I could not keep up with them, because I was so weak, but managed to come up to their camp every night."</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>366</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>Upon receipt of this communication I wrote Mr. McGlashan from San Jose that I was nerved for the ordeal, but that he should not permit me to start on that momentous journey if his proposed arrangements were at all doubtful, and that he should telegraph me at once.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Alas! my note miscarried; and, believing that his proposal had not met my approval, Mr. and Mrs. McGlashan returned to Truckee a day earlier than expected.  Two weeks later he returned the envelope, its postmarks showing what had happened.</P>
187.sgm:<P>It was not easy to gain the consent of my husband to a meeting with Keseberg.  He dreaded its effect on me.  He feared the outcome of the interview.</P>
187.sgm:<P>However, on May 16, 1879, he and I, by invitation, joined Mr. and Mrs. McGlashan at the Golden Eagle Hotel in Sacramento.  The former then announced that although Keseberg had agreed by letter to meet us there, he had that morning begged to be spared the mortification of coming to the city hotel, where some one might recognize him, and as of old, point the finger of scorn at him.  After some deliberation as to how I would accept the change, Mr. McGlashan had acceeded to the old man's wish, that we drive to the neat little boarding house at Brighton next morning, where we could have the use of the parlor for a private interview.  In compliance with this arrangement we four were at the Brighton hotel at the appointed time.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Mr. McGlashan and my husband went in search of Keseberg, and after some delay returned, saying:</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>438</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>367</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>"Keseberg cannot overcome his strong feeling against a meeting in a public house.  He has tidied up a vacant room in the brewery adjoining the house where he lives with his afflicted children.  It being Sunday, he knows that no one will be about to disturb us.  Will you go there?"</P>
187.sgm:<P>I could only reply, "I am ready."</P>
187.sgm:<P>My husband, seeing my lips tremble and knowing the intensity of my suppressed emotion, hastened to assure me that he had talked with the man, and been impressed by his straightforward answers, and that I need have no dread of meeting or talking with him.</P>
187.sgm:<P>When we met at his door, Mr. McGlashan introduced us.  We bowed, not as strangers, not as friends, nor did we shake hands.  Our thoughts were fixed solely on the purpose that had brought us together.  He invited us to enter, led the way to that room which I had been told he had swept and furnished for the occasion with seats for five.  His first sentence made us both forget that others were present.  It opened the way at once.</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Mr. McGlashan has told me that you have questions you wish to ask me yourself about what happened in the mountain cabin."</P>
187.sgm:<P>Still standing, and looking up into his face, I replied: "Yes, for the eye of God and your eyes witnessed my mother's last hours, and I have come to ask you, in the presence of that other Witness, when, where, and how she died.  I want you to tell me all, and so truly that there shall be no disappointment for me, nor remorse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>439</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>368</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I took the chair he proffered, and he placed his own opposite and having gently reminded me of the love and respect the members of the Donner Party bore their captain and his wife, earnestly and feelingly, he told me the story as he had related it to Mr. McGlashan.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Then, before I understood his movement, he had sunk upon his knees, saying solemnly,</P>
187.sgm:<P>"On my knees before you, and in the sight of God, I want to assert my innocence."</P>
187.sgm:<P>I could not have it thus.  I bade him rise, and stand with me in the presence of the all-seeing Father.  Extending my upturned hand, I bade him lay his own right hand upon it, then covering it with my left, I bade him speak.  Slowly, but unhesitatingly, he spoke:</P>
187.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Houghton, if I had murdered your mother, would I stand here with my hand between your hands, look into your pale face, see the tear-marks on your cheeks, and the quiver of your lips as you ask the question?  No, God Almighty is my witness, I am innocent of your mother's death!  I have given you the facts as I gave them to the Fallon Party, as I told them at Sutter's Fort, and as I repeated them to Mr. McGlashan.  You will hear no change from my death-bed, for what I have told you is true."</P>
187.sgm:<P>There, with a man's honor and soul to uncover, I had scarcely breathed while he spoke.  I watched the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>369</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I felt the truth of his assertion, and told him that if it would be any comfort to him at that late day to know that Tamsen Donner's daughter believed him innocent of her murder, he had that assurance in my words, and that I would maintain that belief so long as my lips retained their power of speech.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Tears glistened in his eyes as he uttered a heartfelt "Thank you!" and spoke of the comfort the recollection of this meeting would be to him during the remaining years of his life.</P>
187.sgm:<P>Before our departure, Mr. McGlashan asked Keseberg to step aside and show my husband the scars left by the wound which had prevented his going to the settlement with the earlier refugees.  There was a mark of a fearful gash which had almost severed the heel from the foot and left a troublesome deformity.  One could easily realize how slow and tedious its healing must have been, and Keseberg assured us that walking caused excruciating pain even at the time the Third Relief Corps left camp.</P>
187.sgm:<P>His clothing was threadbare, but neat and clean.  One could not but feel that he was poor, yet he courteously but positively declined the assistance which, privately, I offered him.  In bidding him good-bye, I remarked that we might not see one another again on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>441</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P>I did not see Keseberg again.  Years later, I learned that he had passed away; and in answer to inquiries I received the following personal note from Dr. G. A. White, Medical Superintendent of the Sacramento County Hospital:</P>
187.sgm:<P>Lewis Keseberg died here on September 3, 1895; aged 81 years.  He left no special message to any one.  His death was peaceful.</P>
187.sgm:<P>THE END</P>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
187.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>373</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<LB>Academy of Pacific Coast History, 336.<LB>Altemera, Padre, 187.<LB>American Fur Company, 27.<LB>American Tract Society, 10.<LB>Arguello, Dona Concepcion, 302, 303.<LB>Bartlett, Washington A., 93, 94.<LB>Benton, Rev. J. A., 324.<LB>Benton, Thomas H., 1.<LB>Boggs, ex-Governor of Missouri, 9, 14, 26, 218.<LB>Bond, Frances, 292, 311.<LB>Boone, Alphonso, 9.<LB>Breen, Patrick, 32, 119; diary of, 68, 336, 345.<LB>Brenheim, Adolph, 97.<LB>Brunner, Christian, 150, 173, 296, 297, 318-320.<LB>Brunner, "Grandma," 147-149, 317, 327; and Napoleon, 243-246.<LB>Bryant, Edwin, 12, 16, 27, 30, 307-310, 358.<LB>Cady, Charles, 104.  <LB><HI REND="italics">California Star</HI>
187.sgm:, 140, 307, 336.<LB>Camp of Death, 83.<LB>Chamberlain, Charlotte (Mrs. Wm. E.), 305.<LB>Chamberlain, William E., 305.<LB>Church, Mission service, 233.<LB>Civil War, 324.<LB>Clark, Nicholas, 104, 349.<LB>Cody, Bill, 322.<LB>Coffemeir, Edward, 97, 134.<LB>Coon, William, 97.<LB>Curtis, James, 97.<LB>Del, John, 134.<LB>Denison, Eliza, 306.<LB>"Diary of Patrick Breen, One of the Donner Party," 336.<LB>Dofar, Matthew, 104.<LB>Doland, Patrick, 33, 73, 80, 81.<LB>Donner, Elitha, 3, 132-137, 145, 253, 262.<LB>Donner, Frances, 3, 251, 304.<LB>Donner, George, 2, 4, 25, 137, 250, 309.<LB>Donner, Mrs. George, 2, 5, 33, 102, 111, 137, 309; letters, 24-26.<LB>Donner, Georgia, 3, 161.<LB>Donner, Jacob, 2, 4, 8, 60, 68, 69.<LB>Donner, Leanna, 3, 132-137, 153, 254.<LB>Donner, Mary, 128, 313.<LB>Donner Party, 32, 33, 337, 338.<LB>Dozier, Tamsen Eustis, <HI REND="italics">see</HI>
187.sgm: Donner, Mrs. George.<LB>Eddy, William, 32, 73, 78, 97, 119.<LB>Fallon, Thomas, 134; diary, 310, 352-356.<LB>Fitch, Capt., 184.<LB>"Forlorn Hope" Party, 73, 76-90.<LB>Fortune, Padre, 187.<LB>Fosdick, Jay, 35, 73, 87.<LB>Foster, John, 97.<LB>Foster, William, 32, 73, 119, 134.<LB>Francis, Allen, 4, 6, 8, 23.<LB>Fre&acute;mont, John C., 1, 4.<LB>Frisbie, Capt., 195, 242; marriage of, 247.<LB>Fuller, John, 94.<LB>Glover, Aguilla, 76, 342.<LB>Gold, discovery, 192; early minings, 204-206; seekers, 217.<LB>Graves, W. F., 35, 79-81, 134.<LB>Grayson, Mrs. Andrew J., 169, 170.<LB>Great Overland Caravan, 4.<LB>Greenwood, "Old Trapper," 94, 95.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>445</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>374</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<LB>Halloran, Luke, 33, 36, 37.<LB>Hardcoop, --, 33, 50.<LB>Hastings, Lansford W., 4, 31.<LB>Herron, Walter, 33, 49.<LB>Hook, Solomon, 117.<LB>Hooker, Capt. Joe, 195.<LB>Houghton, S. O., 312, 314, 315, 324.<LB>Independence, Mo., 8, 10, 11.<LB>Indians, as guides, 15; Sioux, 26, 28; on raids, 54; as saviours, 88; at "grub-feast," 162-164.<LB>James, Noah, 70.<LB>Jondro, Joseph, 104.<LB>Josephine, Empress, 243.<LB>Kerns, Capt., 92.<LB>Keseberg, Lewis, 32, 136, 139-141, 230, 355, 360-370.<LB>Land-grants, Mexican, 5.<LB>Leese, Jacob, 184.<LB>"Life and Days of General John A. Sutter," 336.<LB>Maps of territory, 1, 3.<LB>Maury, William L., 95.<LB>McCoon, Perry, 145.<LB>McCutchen, William, 32, 37, 66.<LB>McGlashan, C. F., 360-369.<LB>McKinstrey, Col. George, 310, 346.<LB>Mervine, Capt., 93, 95.<LB>Mexican War, 93, 193.<LB>Miller, Hiram, 104, 119, 141, 251.<LB>Moutrey, R. S., 96.<LB>Murphy, Mrs. Lavina, 32, 110.<LB>Murphy, William G., 347.<LB>Napoleon, 243.<LB>Oakley, Howard, 119.<LB>Oatman, Eugene, 306.<LB>"Oregon and California," 17.<LB>Packwood, Mr. and Mrs., 157.<LB>Pike, William, 32, 36, 57.<LB>Pony Express, first, 321-323.<LB>Poor, Elizabeth, 218; letter to, 234.<LB>Prudon, Major, 184.<LB>Reed, James F., 4, 8, 48, 66, 313.<LB>Relief Party, First, 97, 341.<LB>Relief Party, Fourth, 134.<LB>Relief Party, Second, 104, 345.<LB>Relief Party, Third, 119.<LB>Rhinehart, Joseph, 33, 68.<LB>Rhodes, Daniel, 97.<LB>Rhodes, John, 97, 134.<LB>Richardson, --, 93.<LB>Richey, D., 97.<LB>Richey, Col. M. D., 89.<LB>Robinson, Kate, 312.<LB>Robinson, Judge Robert, 306, 316.<LB>Robinson, Hon. Tod, 306.<LB>Russell, Col., 9, 10, 12, 25-27.<LB>Sacramento, 288.<LB><HI REND="italics">Sacramento Union</HI>
187.sgm:, 291, 296, 305, 306, 320.<LB>School, first in California, 223, 225; Miss Doty's, 234; St. Mary's Hall, 260; Miss Hutchinson's, 260; St. Catherine's, 297; Jefferson Grammar, 306.<LB>Schoonover, T. J., 336.<LB>Sherman, Gen. Wm. T., 266.<LB>Shoemaker, Samuel, 33, 68.<LB>Sinclair, John, 91, 96, 145.<LB>Sloat, Commodore, 188.<LB>Smallpox, 255-257.<LB>Smith, General, 197.<LB>Smith, James, 33, 69.<LB>Snyder, John, 35, 48.<LB>Sonoma, 187-191; last visit to, 326-331.<LB><HI REND="italics">Springfield Journal</HI>
187.sgm:, 4, 8, 23.<LB>Stanton, Charles, 33, 36, 37, 79.<LB>Stark, John, 118, 134.<LB>Starved Camp, 119.<LB>Stone, Charles, 104, 119.<LB>Sutter, Captain John A., 37, 38, 92, 96, 311.<LB>Sutter's Fort, 131-138.<LB>Swift, Margaret, 306.<LB>Thanksgiving celebration, 261, 262.<LB>Thornton, J. Q., 9, 16; extracts from journal, 39, 54, 85, 87, 89, 95, 121, 342.<LB>"Thrilling Events in California History," 310.<LB>Toll, Agnes, 306.<LB>"Topographical Report, with Maps Attached," 4.<LB>"Travels Among the Rocky Mountains, Through Oregon and California," 4, 32.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
187.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>375</PRINTPGNO>
187.sgm:<LB>Trubode, John Baptiste, 34, 62, 220, 343, 349, 350.<LB>Tucker, Daniel, 134.<LB>Tucker, George, 97.<LB>Tucker, Racine, 97.<LB>Turner, John, 104.<LB>Upton, Nellie, 306.<LB>Vallejo, Mariano G., 95, 184, 187.<LB>Webster, Daniel, 305.<LB>"What I Saw in California," 12, 307.<LB>White, Dr. G. A., 370.<LB>White, Henry A., 306.<LB>Wolfinger, --, 33, 55.<LB>Woodworth, Midshipman, 94, 116, 127.<LB>Yost, Daniel, 306.<LB>Yount, George, 94.<LB>Zabriskie, Annie, 306.</P>
188.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-188</TITLE>
188.sgm:<TITLE>A year of American travel. By Jessie Benton Fre&acute;mont: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
188.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
188.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
188.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
188.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
188.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>18-2864</LCCN>
188.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
188.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>5657</COPYRIGHT>
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188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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188.sgm:.  25c.<LB>27.  VIRGINIA.  A Roman Sketch.  25 cents.<LB>28.  THE JEWS AND THEIR PERSECUTORS.  By EUGENE LAWRENCE.  20 cents.<LB>29.  THE SAD FORTUNES OF THE REV. AMOS BARTON.  By GEORGE ELIOT.  20 cents.<LB>30.  MR. GILFIL'S LOVE STORY.  By GEORGE ELIOT.  20 cents.<LB>31.  JANET'S REPENTANCE.  By GEORGE ELIOT.  20c.<LB>32.  THE ABC OF FINANCE.  By SIMON NEWCOMB.  25 cents.<LB>33.  A PRIMER OF MEDI&AElig;VAL LITERATURE.  By EUGENE LAWRENCE.  25 cents.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:34.  WARREN HASTINGS.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>35.  THE LIFE AND WRITINGS OF ADDISON.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>36.  LORD CLIVE.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>37.  FREDERIC THE GREAT.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>38.  THE EARL OF CHATHAM.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>39.  WILLIAM PITT.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>40.  SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL.D.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>41.  JOHN HAMPDEN.--LORD BURLEIGH.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>42.  SIR WILLIAM TEMPLE.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>43.  MACHIAVELLI.--HORACE WALPOLE.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>44.  JOHN MILTON.--LORD BYRON.  By Lord MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>45.  MY LADY'S MONEY.  Related by WILKIE COLLINS.  25 cents.<LB>46.  POOR ZEPH!  By F. W. ROBINSON.  20 cents.<LB>47.  SHEPHERDS ALL AND MAIDENS FAIR.  By WALTER BESANT and JAMES RICE.  25 cents.<LB>48.  BACK TO BACK.  A Story of To-Day.  By EDWARD EVERETT HALE.  25 cents.<LB>49.  THE SPANISH ARMADA FOR THE INVASION OF ENGLAND.  1587-1588.  By ALFRED H. GUERNSEY.  20 cents.<LB>50.  DA CAPO.  By ANNE ISABELLA THACKEBAY.  20 cents.<LB>51.  THE BRIDE OF LANDECK.  By G. P. R. JAMES.  20 cents.<LB>52.  BROTHER JACOB.--THE LIFTED VEIL.  By GEORGE ELIOT.  20 cents.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:53.  A SHADOW ON THE THRESHOLD.  By MARY CECIL HAY.  20 cents.<LB>54.  DAVID'S LITTLE LAD.  By L. T. MEADE.  25 cents.<LB>55.  COUNT MOLTKE'S LETTERS FROM RUSSIA.  Translated by GRACE BIGELOW.  25 cents.<LB>56.  CONSTANTINOPLE.  By JAMES BRYCE.  15 cents.<LB>57.  ENGLISH LITERATURE: ROMANCE PERIOD.  By EUGENE LAWRENCE.  25 cents.<LB>58.  ENGLISH LITERATURE: CLASSICAL PERIOD.  By EUGENE LAWRENCE.  ( <HI REND="italics">In Preparation</HI>
188.sgm:.)<LB>59.  ENGLISH LITERATURE: MODERN PERIOD.  By EUGENE LAWRENCE.  ( <HI REND="italics">In Preparation</HI>
188.sgm:.)<LB>60.  THE TENDER RECOLLECTIONS OF IRENE MACGILLICUDDY.  15 cents.<LB>61.  GEORGIE'S WOOER.  By Mrs. LEITH-ADAMS.  20 cents.<LB>62.  SEVEN YEARS AND MAIR.  By ANNA T. SADLIER.  20 cents.<LB>63.  A SUSSEX IDYL.  By CLEMENTINA BLACK.  25 cents.<LB>64.  GOLDSMITH.--BUNYAN.--MADAME D'ARBLAY.  By LORD MACAULAY.  25 cents.<LB>65.  THE YOUTH'S HEALTH-BOOK.  25 cents.<LB>Published by HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, New York.  <HI REND="italics">Any of the foregoing vols. sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of the price</HI>
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188.sgm:<P>A YEAR</p><P>OF</p><P>AMERICAN TRAVEL</p><P>BY</p><P>JESSIE BENTON FRE&acute;MONT</p><P>NEW YORK</p><P>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS</p><P>FRANKLIN SQUARE</p><P>1878</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by</p><P>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS,</p><P>In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.</p></DIV>
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188.sgm:<P>A YEAR OF AMERICAN TRAVEL.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Je divague fort, mais j'y retourne."</HI>
188.sgm:</p><P>--MONTAIGNE.</p><P>THERE are some years of our lives that compare with the others as our October days do with those of the rest of the year.  They follow the fitful, doubting spring and the heat of summer, and beyond them lie the short cold days of winter; but they themselves are perfect rest, and their still, gentle influence is made perfect by the merciful veil of mist that shuts out past and future, and leaves only the serene present.</p><P>In such an October-time we had made our charming visit to Denmark--itself a little mist-enveloped bit of fairy-land to us; for there we had walked upon the very rampart where the buried majesty of Denmark <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:had walked before us.  By so much were we closer to Shakespeare's Hamlet--not the Hamlet of the foot-lights, but Hamlet the Dane.  And we had heard the low lapping of the waves on the sands of Elsinore, and thought <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"of them that sleep,<LB>Full many a fathom deep,<LB>By thy wild and stormy steep,<LB>Elsinore."</HI>
188.sgm:</p><P>And, in short, we had been where centuries of tradition and fancy and fact had blended into an atmosphere that shut out ordinary ideas, and left us in that charmed and dream-like state of mind which I am afraid can only belong with an old country where everything "stays put," where the word "fixed" has its corresponding meaning in facts.</p><P>One of our little party, perhaps because of always living in such an atmosphere, argued against "the good" of this, but she had never known the ordeal of being uprooted and transplanted.  My wider experience had taught me "the large grief that these infold."  I knew the good and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:necessity of progress in a nation, but I knew also what it cost the individual to make part of this progress.  This question of <HI REND="italics">haute politique</HI>
188.sgm: --whether the nation should be for the good of the individual, or the individual for the good of the nation--was one that often came up for discussion at the "family hearth."  We christened our compartment of the railway carriage by this name, for the hours we were seated there gave us the best opportunity for talking over what we saw and the many ideas suggested.</p><P>Just out of Hamburg our train halted at a station where an emigrant train was ready to go off to connect with the steamer for America.  The people were all gathered at the village station.  The afternoon sun came bright on their uncovered heads as they knelt in a parting prayer; their pastor, standing with uplifted hands, in the dress we know from the pictures of Luther, was giving them his farewell blessing.  Back of him was a young woman of better dress and appearance than the more simple class in front, and by her a fine-looking white-haired old man.  As the prayer ended, she fell across <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:his breast; it was the helplessness of exhausted, unavailing grief; and hold her and grieve over her as he might, yet the father had to give her up, for the parting hour had come.</p><P>We saw this picture as we moved slowly past.  It was the constantly recurring domestic tragedy of emigration.  I could have called out to her to stay; for in that instant I saw back into the time when I had learned to know how painful is the process of founding a new country.  What loneliness, what privations, what trials of every kind, went to the first steps of even that rich and lovely country of California--an experience which made one sure that what cost so much to build must not be broken up; an experience, too, which was in such strange contrast to all that belonged before and since in my life that it stands apart, and never loses its own outlines and color.</p><P>The many memories this gave rise to unfolded themselves in long talks constantly renewed, until they crystallized into what we named the year of American travel:  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:something necessarily personal and narrowed to personal experience, but interwoven with a period of governing importance to our country.</p><P>When it was first planned that I should go to California, in the spring of 1848, the gold discoveries had not been made.  In August of that year was the first finding, and with the uncertain, slow communications then had with that coast, it was nearly winter before the news reached us in Washington.  It seems odd to recall now the little vial of gold-dust so carefully brought as voucher for the startling story.  A long sail down the coast to Mazatlan, then the crossing through Mexico, then another sailing vessel to New Orleans, made the chance mail-route: only a strong party could risk itself overland, and few ventured into the winter.</p><P>For reasons which belonged with the military history of California, our whole plan of life was changed, and I, too, decided to go to the newly acquired Territory and live on some lands we had there.  It would be too long here to go into these reasons, but those <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:who may share my wish always to know "why," and get completed ideas, I would refer to my father's <HI REND="italics">Thirty Years' View</HI>
188.sgm:,<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
188.sgm: the second volume, and the chapters that treat of the acquisition of California.  Judge Black said to me lately that my father's work "had the privilege of standing uncontradicted."  He was exact in facts, and had the habit of a good lawyer "to secure evidence when it presented itself;" and in that way from the best official and personal sources, he gives the exact record of that period.  Since then there have been such great events that even important matters of that time have been overlaid and obscured, except to those who lived through them.  And lately two works have been published by writers of distinction which show this, as they have just reversed some of the most prominent facts relating to the early history of California.<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
188.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Senator Benton.</NOTE>
188.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">Colonel Higginson's <HI REND="italics">Child's History of America</HI>
188.sgm:.  General Sherman's <HI REND="italics">Memoirs</HI>
188.sgm:<P>Nothing could have been more complete than the arrangements which were to make <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:this journey delightful as well as comfortable.  By waiting until March my father would be free to go with me after the session of Congress was ended.  He looked forward with eagerness to this journey over the track of the early Spanish conquests.  His large knowledge of Spanish history upon our continent, aided by his knowledge of the Spanish language, gave this part of the voyage a peculiar interest to him.</p><P>My father's French and Spanish clients from the later acquired Territories of Louisiana and Florida became his friends also.  He not only comprehended, but strongly felt for, their bewilderment at finding themselves under new and strange laws.  He knew that this condition must obtain in California also.  He wished to know personally the newly acquired country, its people, and its needs.  Should it remain a Territory, he, as Senator from Missouri, had the neighbor's right to look out for its interests; and from many causes, personal, political, and geographical, this friendly representation would have been for him, as a queen of Spain said of something akin to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:this, <HI REND="italics">mi privilegio, prerogativa, y derecho</HI>
188.sgm: --my privilege, my prerogative, and my right.</p><P>But not even my father foresaw how much they would need this, nor the shameful injustice of our government in disregarding its treaty stipulations, and despoiling them.</p><P>General Herran, then minister from New Granada, gave us letters to his friends in Panama, although it was not probable that we should be long enough there to use them.  Mr. William Aspinwall, who was much in Washington on business connected with his new enterprises of mail steamers to the Pacific and the projected Panama Railroad, was a great favorite with my father, who gave him a standing invitation to dine with us whenever he could, and talk over at that leisure time the large interests opened by these new channels for Oriental commerce.</p><P>Coming to us in this familiar way, Mr. Aspinwall entered into the family anxieties regarding my journey with all the sympathies of his kind nature.  His experience taught him how to render these sympathies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:efficient, and he made the most thorough arrangements for my comfort and security.  In short, everything that foresight and friendship could do was planned: how events disposed of our well-laid plans was another thing.</p><P>I have been reading lately a reprint of the letters of the Hon. Miss Eden, who was with her brother, Lord Auckland, when he was Governor-General of India.  She says that although only family letters, they will have more interest on that account, as giving the details of their two years' journey of inspection, and the contrast of that past time--when to seven persons belonged a retinue of twelve thousand people, with elephants, camels, and horses to match--with the present condition of India, where now railroads have reduced the Governor-General to a first-class passenger with a traveling-bag.</p><P>In the same way I look back to my preparations for that voyage into the unknown--all the planning and reading and grief and fears--in contrast with the seven days' pleasure trip of to-day.  Mr. Aspinwall, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:had so large a part in making things smooth for me on that first journey, was near me at a morning wedding when, quite simply, and in the same tone with which he had been speaking of the bride and the flowers, he said, "Have you any messages for San Francisco?  We leave for there to-night to be gone six weeks."  Only twenty years had brought about this wonderful change.</p><P>It is easy to resume situations into a paragraph when they are ended; to live through them day by day and hour by hour is another thing.</p><P>I look up at the little water-color which is my <HI REND="italics">re&acute;sume&acute;</HI>
188.sgm: of that time of severance from all I held indispensable to happiness--it was made for me on the spot, and gives my tent under the tall cotton-woods, already browned and growing bare with the coming winter winds.</p><P>Mr. Fremont was to make a winter crossing of the mountains, and I went with him in October to his starting-point, the Delaware Indian reservation on the frontier of Missouri, to return when he left, and remain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:at home in Washington until my time came to start in March.</p><P>Of everything in the Centennial Exhibition, I think nothing interested me so much as the display made by Kansas.  It seemed so few years since I had been there, when only a small settlement marked the steamboat landing where now Kansas City stands.  Looking at its silk manufacturers, its produce of not only essentials, but luxuries, it was hard to realize the untracked prairie of my time, with only Indians and wolves for figures.</p><P>I had been there before to meet Mr. Fremont on his return from different journeys; this time it was to stay with him until the last preparations were completed.</p><P>The party was gone.  Major Cummings was to take me the next day to connect with the river steamer at Westport Landing (now Kansas City).  He had been annoyed by a wolf, which carried off his sheep to her cubs, and had just succeeded in following up her trail and destroying her young ones; and as the place was not far, the good major took me over for a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:"pleasant change of ideas."  I was sorry for the wolf, "still for all sins of hers," with the mother nature, coming back to her ruined place and her dead cubs.</p><P>We came back by way of the deserted camp, which did not lessen my sympathy for the wolf; the ashes of the morning's fire were still warm.  Altogether nothing alleviated the lonely impression of the evening, which closed in on the old gentleman moaning with a toothache, while the creak of his wife's rocking-chair was the only other break to the silence.</p><P>I was glad to go off to sleep.  While one is young, that comes with surprising readiness.  The house was a succession of log-cabins, set, some gable end on, some facing front, making a series of rooms alternating with open places, having only the connecting roof.  These frontier houses grow as the family requirements increase; the timber and the strong willing hands are there, and the getting a new house costs no heart-burnings or cares.  This establishment of Major Cummings's, who had been for thirty years superintendent of Indians there, was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:of many years' growth, and my room was the extreme end of the last added wing.  A stone chimney built up on the outside gave an ample fire-place, where the great fire of logs made a cheerful home light in the great clean room.</p><P>My good "Aunt Kitty" was in my room, and we were both fast asleep, when I was awaked by a sound full of pain and grief, and wild rage too--a sound familiar enough to frontier people, but new to me.  It was the she-wolf hunting her cubs; there followed with it, as a chorus, the cry of the pack of hound puppies--they were young, and frightened.  As for me, with nerves already overstrained, a regular panic came on.  I knew hunters built fires to scare off wild things; but after Kitty had made a great blaze, a new fear came.  The windows were near the ground, and without shutters or curtains.  What if the blaze only served to guide the wolf!  More than once I had seen dogs go through a pane of window-glass as safely as circus-riders through their paper hoops; so shawls were quickly hair-pinned over the windows, and by that time men's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:voices and the angry sounds from older dogs gave a sense of being protected, and sleep came again, to be broken again by a big dark object, rough-coated, and close to me.  It was a speaking wolf too, but not exactly like Red Riding-hood's, although it was hungry.  Camp had only been moved about ten miles, and a fast ride through and back before sunrise would give us another hour together, "and would Kitty make tea?"  And so, with our early tea for the stirrup-cup, "he gave his bridle-rein a shake," and we went our ways, one into the midwinter snows of untracked mountains, the other to the long sea-voyage through the tropics, and into equally strange foreign places.</p><P>The question of a servant to go with me to California was a serious one.  The elder women could not leave their families, and after much thinking, a younger one was set apart, and each of us was considered a victim selected for a sacrifice.  Although I was born and brought up among slaves, the servants in my home were all freed people, their children had grown up with us, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:there was great attachment between us.  One of these whom I particularly liked was decided upon and agreed to go and remain with me.</p><P>Not only had none of us ever been to sea, but we knew but very few people who had made a real sea-voyage.  This to California was to be very much like the old journeys to India, and a friend who had been with her husband in China was called in for consultation, while an old-fashioned book, <HI REND="italics">The Lady of the Manor</HI>
188.sgm:, really gave us some most useful details.  Only we followed our models too literally, and made absurdly large preparations.</p><P>I must remind that this was before sewing-machines, that we were in Washington, and that it was quite before the day of ready-made outfits in our country, so that we busied ourselves with preparations for the heat of the tropics, with refreshing my Spanish, and I, for my part, chiefly in reconciling myself to the fact that in a few months I should be cut loose from everything that had made my previous life.</p><P>March came, and the start had to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:made.  My father came with me to New York, although by this time the original plan had lost its best point to me, for he found himself unable to go from home.</p><P>A brother-in-law (Governor Jacobs, of Kentucky), who had been ordered a sea-voyage for his health, and was going to Rio Janeiro and back, changed his plan, and started with me for California instead.  At the Astor House, where we were staying, we found a large party of favorite relations, my cousin General William Preston and his family, assembled to welcome back from Europe a member who had been away for years.  I was much in the position of a nun carried into the world for the last time before taking the veil.  All the arguments, all the reasons, all the fors and againsts, had to be gone over with this set of friends; all the griefs opened up again, and the starting made harder than ever.  While we were talking, Mr. Stetson came in and spoke to my father, who went out with him, soon returning to call me out also, and explain a new break in our plans.  It seemed my maid, "young Harriot" (to distinguish her from the elder <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:Harriot, who was our dear old nurse), was, at the last, not to be permitted to go with me by her New York friends; and as one of them was the man she was to marry, he spoke with authority.  All this had been considered and arranged; but at the last he withdrew his consent.</p><P>She stood true to me; she knew that never in my life had I had a strange servant about me, that I was already as much grieved as I could endure, and she would not add to it by leaving me without her care, and as much of home as she could represent to me.</p><P>Finding that no argument prevailed on her to stay, he hit upon an idea which was successful.  He went off and raised the whole force of people who were allied for rescuing colored people being carried off to the South against their will, and they poured into the Astor House, filling the lower halls, and raising such a commotion that Mr. Stetson came for us to see what could be done.  The cry of "carrying off a free colored girl against her will" had the same effect in those days as an alarm of fire.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>Looked at by all of our lives, it seems incredible that a colored mob should have assembled against my father and myself on such a hue and cry, but they would not be reasoned with.  It was true that we were Southerners, it was true that Harriot was a free colored girl, although it was not true that she was being carried off against her will.  The trouble was that she had no will; she had only affections, and these pulled her in contrary directions.  When she appealed in tears to us to decide what she should do, we told her to stay.  So I was not only to be without my father's care, but I had lost my last fragment of home.  Mr. Stetson and my father tried at once to find some one going out on the same steamer who would be glad to have the place; and this was done: "a reliable middle-aged New England woman, far more useful than Harriot, who could only sew and dress hair."</p><P>I barely looked at her, and saw she was a hard, unpleasing person to my mind; but the steamer sailed next day, and there was no time for any choice.  She was only an item in the many griefs that seemed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:accumulate on me at this time.  My father's going with me would have made it a delightful voyage for both of us; without him, it was, in all its dreary blankness, my first separation from home.  I had never lived out of my father's house, nor in any way assumed a separate life from the other children of the family--Mr. Fremont's long journeys had taken him from home more than five years out of the eight since we were married; I had never been obliged to think for or take care of myself, and now I was to be launched literally on an unknown sea, travel towards an unknown country, everything absolutely new and strange about me, and undefined for the future, and without even a servant that knew me.</p><P>The first night out, when the numbness of grief was over, I put my little girl to bed; for she would have nothing to do with the new woman, and I myself pretended to be asleep in order not to have to speak to her.  Later on in the night this woman came into my cabin and looked at me, to make sure that I was really sleeping.  Being satisfied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:that such was the case, she opened my trunk, and commenced a leisurely examination of its contents, laying aside in a small heap such articles as she preferred; at the same time she lifted off her dark wig, and gave her head a little shake, and stood there, not the dark-haired, middle-aged woman who was to be so much better for me than my Harriot, but a light-haired woman under thirty, with an expression of hardness that puzzled me then, and frightened me too, so that I kept as much asleep as possible, and let her help herself to all she wanted from the trunk.  When she left the room, with an armful of undergear, I jumped up and bolted the door after her, and remained blockaded until morning, answering none of her knocks or calls.</p><P>When I recognized the clear voice of the stewardess in the morning, I let her in.  She was that good Mrs. Young, with the gray hair and fine teeth, that we all knew so well when she was with Captain Lines on the <HI REND="italics">Humboldt</HI>
188.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Arago</HI>
188.sgm:.  Then I was safe, for Mrs. Young brought the captain, and the woman was put into a separate cabin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:under guard for the journey.  In brief, this person should never have been allowed to go with me.  She was a <HI REND="italics">prote&acute;ge&acute;e</HI>
188.sgm: of an authoress who believed in certain moral reforms, and who thought that by giving her a start in a new country she would carry out her promises of good conduct.  This lady, well known in New York, had given her such credentials that Mr. Stetson chose her from other applicants on those recommendations.</p><P>My brother-in-law was thoroughly seasick, and I was naturally supposed to be so, because I kept my room and had no appetite.</p><P>But the stewardess saw it was not so, and made me go into the air.  We were through with the rough weather off Hatteras, and were in the Gulf Stream.  I had never seen the sea, and in some odd way no one had ever told me of the wonderful new life it could bring.  It stays with me in all its freshness, that first recognition of the ocean which came to me when I went on deck; that grand solitude, that wide look from horizon to horizon, the sense of space, of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:freshness, the delightful power and majesty of the sea--all came to me as necessities; I loved it at the first look, and I am never fully alive without it; sometimes I cannot get to it when I need it, but when I can, I go there, and am soothed and calmed and comforted if I am in trouble; if I am happy, it is only there that I feel completed by the exultant, abounding vitality and keen happiness which it alone brings to me.</p><P>The ship was crowded, but I was too worn down and silenced to care to know strangers.  The captain, Captain Schenck, who was a naval officer, was in every way kind, and very wisely so in securing me entire quiet while on deck, so that the "healing of the sea" soon began to revive my health, and the silent teaching of sky and sea lifted me from morbid dwelling on what was now ended.</p><P>The young think each thing final--they cannot well see that <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I shall outlast this stroke, I know,<LB>For man is conquered by the mighty hours,"</HI>
188.sgm:</p><P>must be true for them too.  Perhaps the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:sharpest lesson of life is that we outlast so much--even ourselves--so that one, looking back, might say, "when I died the first time--"</p><P>But the sea asserts its mighty power also, and no one ends an ocean voyage in the same state of mind with which he began it.</p><P>In this gentle state of mental convalescence I remember how persistently my mind pictured scenes of my childhood and early girlhood.  Especially the many charming things belonging with our constantly recurring long journeys to and from our homes.  For we had three homes: the winter home in Washington, which was "ours;" that in St. Louis, which was "our father's home;" and that of our grandfather in Virginia, which was my mother's dearly loved home, and my birth-place as well as hers.  This was near the beautiful mountain town of Lexington, best known of late from both General Lee's and "Stonewall" Jackson's connection with its great colleges.  These were widely apart, and before the day of railways, made travel serious; taking so much time that it divided our lives into <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:distinct parts, but broke up nothing of family life, and did not interrupt, although it altered, the form of our studies.  A certain little English valise held the maps and books, and our school-room was improvised anywhere--on the "guard" of a river steamboat or in its cabin, or resting under trees.  It trained us to holding on to our thoughts through interruptions; it trained us to much for which I can never be grateful enough, for then my father himself was our teacher--to his real pleasure, and our endless regrets when we had to drop back to regular teachers, who could not enrich and illuminate every topic as he did.  He suited the books to his own tastes; and though much was above our comprehension, yet we grew into them.  Especially we never got away from Plutarch and the Iliad.  The gods and goddesses descended on us everywhere.</p><P>The little invalid of our family was not let to brave the harsh prairie winds of early spring in St. Louis, so we took New Orleans first on the alternate years when we went to the West.  It was thousands of miles out of our way, but water transportation made it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:no trouble, while the eight days on the Mississippi was as welcome a rest for my parents as we now find our Atlantic crossing.  Ours was a constant changing from an English-Protestant into a French-Catholic atmosphere, to find them blended in Washington through widely various representations, and by the diplomatic corps, which was a more permanent body than now, when steam and telegraphing have nearly abolished diplomacy.</p><P>It had been but few years since the Louisiana Territory had been ceded to us, greatly to the indignation and regret of most of its settlers.  It was an article of faith with these to alter nothing in their habits, not even to learn the language of the country of which they had become unwilling citizens:  <HI REND="italics">Je suis francais, et je parle ma langue</HI>
188.sgm:, was a common expression among them.  Among these we came into an atmosphere thoroughly foreign--dress, cookery, all domestic usages and ideas, as well as their language and religion.  St. Louis being a so much smaller place, the American element told there more quickly, especially as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:it was also the frontier garrison and the head of the fur business.  From the broad gallery of my father's house in St. Louis there was always to be seen in my earlier day a kaleidoscopic variety of figures; the lower classes of the French still wore their peasant dress, and its bright and varied colors and the white caps belong as much to the remembrance of that time in St. Louis as they do to my earlier visits in France; now it is hard to find a peasant costume even in their own countries on travelled routes; the sewing-machine has abolished picturesqueness in dress.  When I was first in France, even in Paris the streets were animated by the pretty white caps and gray gowns of the working-women; now a pall of black alpaca has hidden all this, though the greatest desecration I have seen is a Tyrolese mountaineer in a ready-made business suit.</p><P>There were also long files of Indians stepping silently by, the squaws and babies bringing up the rear--real Indians in real Indian dress, or real Indian want of dress; any number of Catholic clergy in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:clerical robe; hunters and trappers in fringed deer-skins; army officers in worn uniforms going by on horseback.</p><P>Our house in Washington was a headquarters for the varied interests from all these places, while about my mother there collected and shaped itself a circle which formed for many years really a <HI REND="italics">salon</HI>
188.sgm:, to be broken up only by her loss of health.</p><P>This life rubbed out many little prejudices, and fitted us better than any reading could have done to comprehend the necessary differences and equal merits of differing peoples, and that although different, each could be right.  The manner in which my father taught us also led us up to the same ideas.</p><P>The French language was a necessity, and that we acquired without any trouble, because we had a nurse who began us with it as soon as we could speak; whatever governess or teacher we had, my father always was our real teacher, my mother reserving one day and one line of instruction, which, like the red strand in English navy cables, marked us for her own.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>While in Washington we had our routine of studies and town life, in New Orleans my elder sister and myself rose to the proportion of members of society, for my father's clients, when on their visits to Washington, were pleased to have us for their little interpreters, and when we would be in New Orleans they would insist on treating us as grown people, inviting us formally to dinners, where we would be taken in formally by grown gentlemen, and sit through the whole entertainment.  There was great inherited wealth among these planters; they were generally educated in Paris; and with the combined resources of climate, taste, and wealth, their mode of living was beautiful as well as luxurious.</p><P>One detail I have never met since in any country, that of having the dinner and the dessert in different dining-rooms.  With us this classic custom has faded into the after-dinner coffee of the drawing-room, but it was completely carried out in these great houses.</p><P>One occasion I remember especially.  While the earlier part of the dinner was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:in a spacious and splendid room, and served with plate enough to satisfy even English ideas, the next room was more charming, for its furniture, as well as that of the table, was suited to the grace and fragrance and lightness of the dessert.  The crystal service and the wax-lights in their glass shades were reflected in great mirrors on three sides of the room, while the fourth was open to a court of grass and flowers, where the moon shone on the sparkling spray of a large fountain.  The <HI REND="italics">punkah-wallahs</HI>
188.sgm:, as they would be called in India, had great fans of peacock feathers.  I do not wonder it fitted into the Arabian Nights' entertainments in my mind.</p><P>In St. Louis, where our house stood among its great trees, in a square of its own, we had, to a large degree, a pleasant out-door life: our lessons always were given on the broad gallery running around the house, and in every way we had a great deal of open-air life; but our true delight in out-of-doors was only to be had at my grandfather's place in Virginia.  When going there from Washington we used no public <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:conveyances beyond Fredericksburg; there the carriage and saddle-horses met us, my mother as well as my father often making the journey back on horseback, while the carriage was there for us children, and for her to return to when tired--a London-built travelling coach which gave all the rest one looked for--large, high swung, and with so many springs that the jolting from the execrable roads was lessened.  Its pale yellow body and scarlet morocco lining made us children christen it "Cinderella's pumpkin;" maybe, too, an underlying consciousness of unlimited indulgence associated with those who sent it.</p><P>There was always a sense of freedom and expansion of mind connected with the arrival at my grandfather's.  His was one of the crown grants of the colonial time, and had been given, for military service, to his father, an English officer, who was killed in the early Indian wars, but not before he had planted his old-country ideas upon his home.  The oaks here were especially beautiful; they had been preserved, and made a noble park.  Leading straight through this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:park to the large hospital-looking house was a planted double avenue of cherry-trees, which had been arched on the inner boughs and trimmed up straight on the outer side; these had grown to the height and thickness of forest trees by my time, and made a lovely vista, whether they were in blossom or red with fruit, or their naked boughs glittering with ice.  On the lawn about the house some remarkable oaks had been kept, and some sycamores of really giant proportions.  There were beautiful old-fashioned gardens to the south, and masked by the tall hedge of holly and privet were the cabins of the house servants.  These were comfortable, clean cottages, but forbidden ground to the children of "the Big House" unless they were with some of the family.</p><P>The land patent gave the ownership of all the lands in sight from a certain point in the valley, and we knew, as we crossed the last hill before entering this valley, that we were monarchs of all we surveyed, including the grandparents.</p><P>On this travel we rarely stopped at a public place; it was held as an unkindness to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:pass a relative's home, so our journey was a progress along a cordon of great estates of this kind, where everything had so long been going along in an established way that it was small wonder they believed in predestination and fore-ordination.</p><P>Everywhere among them was inherited property--their houses, their servants, the cattle and sheep on a hundred hills, were theirs by descent.  Nothing varied much--things were all in the deep lull of secured prosperity.</p><P>The life on these estates will not be lived over.  With the introduction of railways, the war, and the termination of slavery, this phase of living has completely passed away; it lies back in my memory like a sunny, peaceful landscape, and I am as thankful for having been born in that atmosphere of repose as De Quincey says he was for having been born in the country in England.  It was to us what Hawthorne and so many others have found England, "the old home," with soothing influences that go always with its memory.</p><P>When we would return to this place of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:my grandfather's, each resumed the delights belonging to it.</p><P>The grown people would go to the White Sulphur Springs, then the Saratoga for the North as well as the South.  I always had the pleasure of being left with my grandmother, and went with her on that daily round of inspection which made one of the necessary duties of a Southern lady.  This included not only the immediate household, but the cabins of the house servants, the gardens--to see, in short, that all had been faithfully attended to; and then into the spinning and sewing rooms, and always into the large room used as a day nursery and hospital for the infants of women who were employed about their different work.  I can hardly get to the end of all the duties that filled up the busy mornings.  I know that the garden and the nursery are the points that remained most in my memory as the place where my grandmother gave the most time; the dairy was all right under the care of its presiding head, "Aunt Chloe," who was the wife of "Uncle Jack," shoe-maker to the plantation, and Methodist <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:preacher to his own people.  It was not considered respectful in us children to address the elder slaves by their name merely; there was always the prefix of "aunt" or "uncle;" to the head nurse always "mammy."  Occasionally there were inspections at a longer distance from the house--to the weaving-rooms, the shoe-maker's, etc.  Everything that was worn was grown and made on the place, except the finer woollens and linens for family use which came from Richmond.</p><P>The various stages of woollen fabries, from the sheep on the hill-sides, and the dyes taken from the sumac bushes and the green bark of walnuts, all the details of buzzing wheels, and carding wool, and winding hanks, were part of the object-teaching of my childhood.</p><P>The interval between the close of the long session and the winter was too short for the long, tedious journey to St. Louis and back.  We only made that on alternate years after the short session, when high waters gave us large steamboats and comfortable transportation for our little crowd.  What <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:we do now in two days required then several weeks.</p><P>My father knew no plan of life that separated him from his family; so we led this charming nomadic existence, with its fixed points in such contrast to the trouble of travel and distance between them.  Washington was in one way work, and St. Louis and New Orleans had their sides of political work and his duties as a lawyer.  But it was all holiday here, and my father enjoyed it thoroughly.  Especially he liked the autumn shooting.  The birds were most plentiful in certain large wheat-fields, which, in their warm tints of stubble, undulated over the south face of the hills, the trees of the "little orchard" and the park making a good screen to the north.</p><P>Here and there through the fields were good apple-trees; under one of these we would rest, and eat our luncheon of a biscuit and some fruit taken from the tree above us; and then my father would take a book from his pocket, usually a classic in a French translation, from which he would read aloud for me to translate.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>There were plenty of ideas, even words, that I did not understand; if it had been a description of the steam-engine, I should have gone through it with equal good-will and docility; but much of it remained in my memory, and I grew into it.  Hard words and hard ideas tired my mind as the long tramps and ploughed fields tired my young feet, but with time I grew used to both, and the benefit of both remained with me: these long sunny mornings in the open air were the most delightful phase in which my lessons came.  In winter I had my corner at the library table.  No matter how good our teachers were, my father had us always prepare our lessons with him.</p><P>About a year after I was married, my father sent for me one morning, and pointing to my old place at the end of the library table, said, "I want you to resume your place there; you are too young to fritter away your life without some useful pursuit."  So back I went to my mornings of work and readings and translations, which brought with them the scraps of talk and connected interest on all subjects which can only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:exist where lives are passed together in that pleasant intimacy.</p><P>As I have said, the long expeditions which Mr. Fremont made took him from home five years of the first eight after we were married, and I remained in many respects in my old place as one of the children of the family.  My mother's long illness deprived my father of her companionship to a great extent, and made him turn to me still more.  How great a loss this was to him and to us can only be known to those who knew her; but I do not speak of that life, for it is not, like mine, in a manner public property.  For myself, so much good-will and warm feeling have been given me during the public portions of my life that it does not seem more intrusive to talk of myself to my unknown friends than to those I know personally.</p><P>As my mind turns back to that time, so much crowds upon it that I can neither tell it in its fulness, nor can I bring myself to leave it a mere skeleton.  I think there could hardly have been a happier life than mine as a child, and in all my youth; it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:would be a full volume, to be bound in white and gold, and red-lettered throughout, and full of lovely pictures, and everywhere and in all of them my father the prominent figure.  He made me a companion and a friend from the time almost that I could begin to understand.  We were a succession of girls at first, with the boys coming last, and my father gave me early the place a son would have had; and my perfect health--without a flaw until I was twenty-four--gave me not only the good spirits but the endurance and application that pleased him.</p><P>When we reached Chagres, if it had not been for pure shame, and unwillingness that my father should think badly of me, I would have returned to New York on the steamer, as the captain begged, putting before me such a list of dangers to health, and discomforts and risks of every kind, as to kill my courage.  One often gets credit for what he does not really deserve, and it would hardly do to tell the whole truth about everything; but I have since confessed that when I first saw land my pleasure in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:first sight of palm-trees and the tropical growth was lost in the feeling that I had to make another separation from what had grown to be something of a home.  Captain Schenck had made everything as pleasant as possible for me.  My large double cabin, which at first seemed like a closet, had grown home-like.  Never having been on a ship before, I had only a house to compare it with, and felt choked on first going into it; but I have learned since to know that a double cabin, with a large square port, is a luxury.</p><P>The little tender on which the passengers and mails were landed was as small as a craft could well be to hold an engine, and was intended to go as high as possible up the Chagres River.  It seemed like stepping down upon a toy.  But even this had to be exchanged, after the first eight miles, for dug-out canoes, the shallows and obstructions of every kind making it impossible to use the little steamboat.</p><P>Here Mr. Aspinwall's care secured for me what was, by the contrast to what the other travellers had to endure, luxury.  While <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:they had to take the dug-out canoes, with their crews of naked, screaming, barbarous negroes and Indians, I was put in the "company's" whale-boat, with a responsible crew in the "company's" service; this was a difference which I learned to appreciate more thoroughly on hearing afterwards of the murder of passengers by their crews.  With all our advantages, we only made a few miles each day, taking three to reach Gorgona, where we were to exchange our boats for mules, on which we crossed the mountains.  This travel is so changed by the railroad that it may be interesting to know just how we made the crossing in 1849.  The other passengers took their chances of sleeping on the ground or in the huts of the Indians, and in that way contracted fevers from the night air, the tropical mists, and all causes of ill-health that were so well known, while I was protected from all this through Mr. Aspinwall's care.  He had sent with me one of his trusted employe&acute;s, a captain of a vessel in the mahogany trade, who had had his wife with him on his different journeys on that coast, and knew just what to do for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:the health and safety of a lady.  When Mr. Aspinwall told him that he was to see me across, and leave me in safety at Panama, his wife objected, because, she said, I would be a Washington fine lady, and make objections to the Indians having no clothes on, and make him a great deal of trouble altogether, and he had better ask Mr. Aspinwall to have some one else do this; but after Mr. Aspinwall introduced him to me at his house, the captain, as he told me afterwards, told his wife he would take care of me; "that I was not a fine lady at all; that I was a poor thin pale woman, and not a bit of a fine lady; that he would see me through.  And she agreed to it."</p><P>While the sun was still bright we made our landing.  One needs to realize it in the tropics to know how true is the line,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Down dropped the sun, up rose the moon;"</HI>
188.sgm:</p><P>and with the dropping of the sun, rose not only the moon, but the discordant noises of night in the tropical forests; a hideous, confusing rush of sound without, which made more comfortable the pleasant interior of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:our tent, with its canvas floor and walls, lit up by the great fire outside, which was our protection not only against wild animals, but the deadly dews, which were so heavy that they had obliged the further protection of a fly tent.  Persons sleeping on shore even one night forfeited their lifeinsurance.  Within, it was ready for us with all the comforts the "company" could provide, and our clean linen cots were very welcome after the fatigue of the day, with all its excitement and new ideas.  Among all the passengers there was but one other lady.  I invited her to go with me; I could not leave her to meet all the exposures and risks, when I had such care taken of me.  I am sorry to say that I was also obliged to have with me my "reliable maid."  The captain had treated her "man-of-war" fashion, and put her under lock and key while we were on the steamship, and intended taking her back to New York; but she refused to go.  She claimed not only her rights as an American citizen to travel where she pleased, but to say what she pleased, and created a sort of public opinion for herself among the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:steerage passengers, who, hearing only her side of the story, looked upon her as an ill-used woman, and it was thought best that I should at least take her as far as Panama.  She too had the benefit of all this friendly and delicate care.</p><P>Each camping-place was provided for in the same way, always one or two of the army officers connected with the survey that was being made for the railroad were there to see that everything was right, and to have the pleasure of home talk with a lady.  It took a long time to make these thirty miles of river travel, for we were only poled along against the stiff current of this mountain river.  Though we made but a few miles each day, they were full of novelty and interest.  Sometimes for nearly a mile we would go along gently; the men could use oars, and we would be sometimes out in the stream, sometimes close to the bank under the overarching branches of trees, bent into the water, and so matted by masses of flowering creepers that we seemed at times to glide along an aisle of flowers through a great conservatory.  There I first saw the white and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:scarlet varieties of the passion-flower, and many flowers, both fragrant and brilliant, for which I know no name.  Then we would have to put out into the stream from under this shade, and the sun <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
188.sgm: hot.  At times we would have to get out while the men would be busy with their long knives clearing a little pathway for us through the dense growth, where some point put out in such a shallow that we could not get the boat round it.  We hardly felt the heat more than in our own hot weather; but the effects of the sun were very different upon white people.  The Indians and Jamaica negroes, of whom our crew was composed, tumbled from the boat into the water, giving it a shove, and leaping back, as much at home in the water as porpoises.  We were near to the close of the last day's journey, within an hour of Gorgona, when my brother-in-law, being young and strong and a Kentuckian, in his impatience at the delay on one of those sand spits, jumped into the water and dragged the boat, in spite of the men, who told him that it would kill him.  We did get off sooner than usual through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:his help, and he was very triumphant about it, when suddenly his eyes rolled back in his head and he fell prostrate from sunstroke just as we reached Gorgona; and throughout that whole night the physician with the engineering corps was doubtful if he could live.</p><P>I will say here that this deprived me of his care, for the illness that followed was such that he was taken back in the next steamer to the United States, as he could not recover in a hot climate.  His illness kept us at Gorgona some days, the officers of the engineering corps all begging me to return to the United States, telling me that I had no idea of what I was to go through.  In fact, at each step of my journey I was told, like the young man in "Excelsior," that the thing was impossible; and quite secretly to myself I said so too when I began to see what the emigrants suffered.  There were hundreds of people camped out on the hill-slopes at Gorgona in apologies for tents, waiting for a certainty of leaving Panama, from which as yet there was no transportation.  There were many women, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:some with babies, among these; they were in a hot, unhealthy climate, and the uncertainty of everything was making them ill: loss of hope brings loss of strength: they were living on salt provisions brought from home with them, which were not fit for such a climate, and already many had died.</p><P>Some pleasant English people, returning from South America, were, like myself, guests at the headquarters of the engineer corps.  The alcalde of the village invited us all to a breakfast, where I had a caution given me just in time to prevent my showing my horror at the chief dish, a baked monkey which looked like a little child that had been burned to death.  The iguana, or large lizard, of which we had seen so many along the river, was also a chief dish.  This is held to be very delicate, and its eggs are esteemed as much as certain eggs are among us.  The alcalde's house was a thatched roof on poles, with wattled sides, like a magnified vegetable crate.  Unbleached sheeting had been tacked over this, in our honor, and the wall further adorned by four colored lithographs.  There <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:were the "Three Marys," and although mere daubs, had at least the garments and attributes of their subjects.  The fourth was a black-haired, red-cheeked, staring young woman in a flaming red dress and ermine tippet, and a pink rose in her hand, under all,</p><P>MARY,</p><P>WIFE OF JAMES K. POLK,</p><P>President of the United States.</p><P>This, he evidently thought, was the Mary of our worship.  When we went back, Mrs. W-- said, "We will have our breakfast now," and had her own tea-pot and tea brought out.  When she found that I was too young a traveller to know the necessity of carrying these with me, she gave me hers, with a warning, which I have heeded to my great comfort, never to separate from my own tea equipage again.</p><P>The distance from Gorgona to Panama was about twenty-one miles.  It was <HI REND="italics">distance</HI>
188.sgm:, not a <HI REND="italics">road</HI>
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188.sgm:enough for a single animal--the same trail that had been followed since the early day of Spanish conquest; and this trail followed the face of the country as it presented itself--straight up the sides of the steepest heights to the summit, then straight down them again to the base.  No bridges across the rapid streams.  These had to be forded by the mules, or, when narrow, the mule would gather his legs under him and leap it.  If one could sit him, so much the better; if not, one fell into the water; and in this way many emigrants got broken bones, and many more bruises and thorough wettings.  There was no system about the baggage; people generally had taken the largest trunk they could find, because the journey was to be a long one; there was no provision for taking these across other than by hand; and when the trunk was absolutely too large, mules and cows were pressed into the service.  My invaluable Captain Tucker had made all arrangements for me, and I knew nothing of these troubles on my own behalf, but even the civilized "baggage-smashing" of our railroads <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:was nothing compared to the damage done in that Isthmus transfer.  The slender Indians bending under the weight of a trunk carried between them on poles, and the thin, ill-fed little mules which almost disappeared under the load of trunks, valises, and bags, both got rid of their load when tired of it.  There were very narrow defiles worn through the rock where we could only go in single file, and even the men sat sidewise, because there was not room to sit as usual.  At one of these we came upon a cow loaded with trunks and bags.  She was measuring her wide horns against the narrow entrance of the defile, as her load prevented her twisting through.  There we had to wait until some solution of the difficulty was found, which she reached by rubbing off all her load, leaving us the <HI REND="italics">de&acute;bris</HI>
188.sgm: of the broken trunks and smashed baggage to climb over.  We had two days of this before reaching Panama.</p><P>A fine mule is really a delightful animal to ride, especially in a mountain country; but these very small, badly fed, ungroomed, wretched little creatures that we had were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:full of viciousness, and they resented the unusual work required of them.  I had been, as usual, provided with the best--a fine mule belonging to the "company;" and Captain Tucker was exultant that I was neither ill nor tired, nor in any way broken down by the unusualness of the whole thing, and repeated his constant expression, "I told my wife you were not a bit of a fine lady."  He judged, as we all judge, by appearances.  As there were no complaints or tears or visible breakdown, he gave me credit for high courage, while the fact was that the whole thing was so like a nightmare that one took it as a bad dream--in helpless silence.  The nights were odious with their dank mists and noises; but there was compensation in the sunrise, when from a mountain-top you looked down into an undulating sea of magnificent unknown blooms, sending up clouds of perfume into the freshness of the morning; and thus from the last of the peaks we saw, as Balboa had seen before us, the Pacific at our feet.  There I felt in connection with home, for Balboa and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:Pizarro meant also Prescott's history of the conquest, and family readings and discussions in a time that seemed so far back now, for it lay before the date which should hereafter mark all things--before and after leaving home.  Panama, too, was the first walled city I had ever seen; and its land gate and water gate, and its old cathedral, with the roof and spire inlaid with mother-of-pearl, all made me feel that I had come to a foreign countru.</p><P>My stay at Panama was not all one-sided; it had its very pleasant aspects.  General Herran's letters made his family accept me as one of themselves.  One of them, an elderly lady, a widow, made me come to her house and remain with her during my whole stay; there, with her daughters and her nice old servants, I had none of the forlornness which belongs to being in a hotel, and quickly slipped into a routine very much like my ordinary life, only with very different scenery and actors.  I learned the reality of Spanish hospitality, and that "La casa y todo que tiene es a&acute; su disposicion" is not merely a phrase.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>Many of the young people had been educated in London and Paris, but there was no want of topics in common, and of interest, even with those who had never left their country.</p><P>I had plenty of books with me; there were interminable letters to be written home, visits to receive and visits to return; and delightful walks on the ramparts in the cool of the day just before sundown, often ending in going to dine or have an evening of music with the ladies of native or foreign consular families, who also had their exercise there.</p><P>When I was in Paris in 1852, I thought I recognized in a carriage that passed me in the Bois de Boulogne a beautiful face with those eyelids the Spanish call <HI REND="italics">durmididos</HI>
188.sgm:, a peculiarity I had first seen in one of the most beautiful girls in the Hurtado family.  The Empress had those eyelids, and as she was then in the first blaze of her new distinction, Spanish beauty was in fashion.  It was among her beauties commented on and praised.  This expression, <HI REND="italics">durmididos</HI>
188.sgm:, or sleepy eyelids, is a characterization given to the long, heavily fringed, slowly moving <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:eyelid, where the eye is more open at the inside than at the outer corner, and where the eyelid descends with a sweep, giving that look that we see in a child when it is struggling against sleep.</p><P>I ventured a bow, which was quickly returned, and we drew up beside each other and renewed acquaintance.  I was so pleased to find I could be of any service to them in Paris, helping to decide on a school for the young girls, and in every way I could think of taking from them in turn the sense of being far from home.</p><P>On Sundays we had the service of our own church.  Mr. Aspinwall had looked to the starting of the Episcopal Church in California, and sent out the Rev. Mr. Minor to plant it.  It was liberal and kind of some Catholic Panama ladies to give the use of their large rooms for a Protestant service.  They not only did this, but every Sunday we found the room arranged with as many seats as it could contain placed in aisles, a temporary altar made by a table covered with the finest linen and decorated with flowers, while they themselves, although <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:they could not join our service, stayed just without the door, and made us feel welcome in that way.  Some passengers had a melodeon, and not a bad improvised choir chanted the responses.  It was a sincerely religious gathering, and I recall no other service like it for simple, genuine impressiveness.</p><P>The best rooms in that climate are always on the upper floor, their only windows being as large as our barn doors, which, in this room, when slid aside, gave us a broad view over the bay.  Mr. Minor, in his orthodox robes, at the flower-decorated table, the melodeon with its little choir around it on one side, the space at the other side remaining open for the ladies of the house who were in the doorway of an adjoining room, where theu, with their idea of respect, sat in full evening dress--satin slippers, fan, lace mantillas, and flowers in the hair--everything in the old Spanish style; the few American ladies in the front row of chairs in their morning suits and bonnets, while the rest of the room was crowded with men in every variety of dress and want of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:dress.  No one had anticipated such detention, and the small outfit intended for rapid travel was pretty much used up, while at that time there were no means of replacing it; red-flannel shirts and corduroy clothes seemed to be the only thing to be had in Panama, and so made a picturesque though uncomfortable wear for the tropics.</p><P>Some observances of the Catholic Church, of which I had only read, I saw here.  The house where I was staying was on the great square where the cathedral and customhouse and other large buildings are; my rooms were about twenty feet above the ground, one a corner room; the broad covered balcony that ran around both sides gave me a look out on the whole active life of Panama.  Sometimes it was a church procession to the ramparts to bless the waters and pray for a favorable season; very picturesque from the brilliant awnings carried over the heads of the officiating priests, in their splendid lace robes over the red under-dress, and followed by a long array of ladies in the old Spanish costume--lace mantillas on the head, bright silk and satin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:gowns, and satin slippers, all carrying flowers to be cast in the water; they in turn followed by gentlemen in full European evening dress; and then a long crowd of Indians and women, looking like pictures because of their very odd and scanty garments; these would have not only the music of the church service, as it was chanted by the priests and taken up by the people, but at the end of the procession nearly every man had a rude form of guitar on which he played, and sang, while women danced along at the end of the procession, reminding one of Miriam's dancing in the early Jewish ceremonials.</p><P>On Good-Friday the search for the body of the Saviour made another very striking church occasion; the usual persons were in the formal procession, led by priests, but they were in funeral vestments, the ladies all in the deepest mouring, with black veils over their heads, and every one carrying a lighted candle.</p><P>Often and often the Rev. Mr. Minor, our Episcopal clergyman, with white robes and bared head, followed a solitary rough coffin, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:attended by a few men in red-flannel shirts, making their way to the temporary burial-place just beyond the land gate, where the graves were growing thick.  Just by was the entrance to the calaboose.  The soldiers on guard, who had muskets, and hats with feathers, but no shoes, whiled away their time by fighting chickens.  I became, in spite of myself, expert in judging these; there was a constant bringing in and comparing; it was the high exchange for fighting-cocks.  Those, and a shrivelled little man who carried on his business as jeweller in the open air, just as in the <HI REND="italics">Arabian Nights</HI>
188.sgm:, a bench and stool his only shop, I saw all the time.  My Panama Tiffany's best effort was the making of filigree crosses with the imperfect Panama pearls interwoven, for which I became one of his customers.</p><P>One morning I heard a voice of lamenting, a voice of real sorrow.  Looking down, I saw walking to and fro in the shade beneath my balcony, a young Indian man, carrying a child of about three years old, both of them with the least possible clothing on--country Indians, evidently.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:face of the child shocked me, and I called to the man that it was very ill; to bring it in and let us do something for it.  He interrupted his wailing to say, "No, no; ya se murio&acute;" ("It is dying now").  He had been with it to the Cathedral near by.  Candelaria, one of the servants of the house, a quick, sympathetic Spanish Indian, ran down to the man at my asking, and brought them in and cared for them; but the child was really in the agonies of death, and only lived a little while.</p><P>The next morning the tinkle of the little bell announcing that the Host was passing through the streets drew me to the balcony.  I saw for the first time, in action, the theory that the death of an infant is a cause for thankfulness.  People often say this with us; it is the religious belief of the Catholic Church, and here, where the people were simple and acted their belief, it was being carried into practice.  It was an Indian funeral, and on a very humble scale.  The priest led the way, as usual, preceded by the Host, chanting a service for the dead, but with a quick, glad intonation, which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:was taken up by the Indian women following.  The little child, robed in white, with ruffles and lace and ribbons and wreaths of flowers, lay on an open bier carried by men singing loudly and cheerfully.  Next the child was its father, now dressed out in a shirt and pantaloons, with a haggard face, and wistful eyes fixed upon his child, but singing also.  Behind them a long crowd of women in their holiday dresses; violins and guitars were playing cheerful, quick music, and they followed them dancing.  But for the dead child one would not have known that it was not a marriage procession.  When we realize our utter helplessness to shield those we love from the chances of life, can we say that these people are wrong?</p><P>This was April of 1849, and only one steamship had preceded ours.  Its passengers had been taken up the coast to San Francisco on the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
188.sgm:, the first of the line sent round the Horn; she was to have returned and been at Panama to connect with us.  A second steamship, the <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
188.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:had also left New York on her way round, but was not to reach Panama until a month later.  It could only be conjectured why the <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
188.sgm: did not return, and it was supposed, as was afterwards proved, that all her crew had deserted to go to the mines, and no men could be induced to take their places.  The madness of the gold fever was upon everybody up there, so we were detained in Panama seven weeks before the relief came.  Seven weeks of tropical climate in the rainy season was hard upon those who had even the best accommodation, but simply fatal to those who had only tents and no resources against the climate.  Another monthly steamer, and sailing vessels from all our ports, brought in accessions, until there were several thousand Americans banked up in Panama, and none of them prepared for this detention.  The suffering from it was great, and one of the greatest troubles was that, though the mails continued to arrive, which would contain not only their family and business news from home, but in many cases money remittances which were very much needed, no one was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:authorized to open them, as they were made up for San Francisco.  Our consul, who was, of course, a foreigner, acred more for the technical offence he might give to the government than for the actual good he might do to the Americans.  Our people met the emergency in their national way: they called a public meeting, where it was decided that a committee of twelve should be chosen, to be agreed upon by all present; that these twelve persons before all should open the mails and distribute them.  This committee was selected from among the government officials there--the American commissioners for running a boundary line between Mexico and California, the custom-house officers, officers of high rank in the army, and persons of political and personal distinction well known to all who were there.  From among these the committee of twelve was made up.</p><P>The newspapers brought over by the steamer passengers gave me my first information of the sufferings of Mr. Fre&acute;mont's overland party, and with these were rumors still more painful than the reality.  I knew <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:that in those mail-bags were letters from my father giving me the truth, and bringing such comfort as could be sent through letters, yet for want of them I was left to the horrors of imagination.  This, added to the effects of the rainy season, began to make me ill.  When the bags were opened, they quickly came to letters with my father's well-known frank upon them, which were as quickly brought to me, and passed up to the balcony on the end of a split sugar-cane--the sugar-cane for my little girl, the letters for me.  Then I only thought of my letters; now I can see in it the intelligent results of self-government, making our people do the right thing under unusual circumstances.  Hundreds were suffering for want of proper food and accommodations, which they could not have without money, while in these closed bags lay the letters containing their drafts, which could be exchanged by the company's agents or express company; so they made their laws as they went.</p><P>This was the governing letter brought me by the mails.  I do not apologize for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:giving it in full, for it is a necessary "supplement and complement" of this narrative of personal experience of the impediments to reaching California at that period:</p><P>LETTER FROM COLONEL FRE&acute;MONT TO HIS WIFE.</p></DIV>
188.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>"TAOS, NEW MEXICO,<HI REND="italics">January</HI>
188.sgm:<P>"I write to you from the house of our good friend Carson.  This morning a cup of chocolate was brought to me while yet in bed.  To an overworn, overworked, much-fatigued, and starving traveller these little luxuries of the world offer an interest which in your comfortable home it is not possible for you to conceive.  While in the enjoyment of this luxury, then, I pleased myselfin imagining how gratified you would be in picturing me here in Kit's care, whom you will fancy constantly occupied and constantly uneasy in endeavoring to make me comfortable.  How little could you have dreamed of this while he was enjoying the pleasant hospitality of your father's house!  The furthest thing then from your mind was that he would ever repay it to me here.</p><P>"But I have now the unpleasant task of telling you how I came here.  I had much rather write you some rambling letters in unison with the repose in which I feel inclined to indulge, and talk to you about the future, with which I am already busily occupied; about my arrangements for getting speedily down into the more pleasant climate of the lower Del Norte and rapidly through into California, and my plans when I get there.  I have an almost invincible repugnance to going back among scenes where I have endured much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:suffering, and for all the incidents and circumstances of which I feel a strong aversion.  But as clear information is absolutely necessary to you, and to your father more particularly still, I will give you the story now instead of waiting to tell it to you in California.  But I write in the great hope that you will not receive this letter.  When it reaches Washington you may be on your way to California.</p><P>"Former letters have made you acquainted with our journey so far as Bent's Fort, and from report you will have heard the circumstances of our departure from the Upper Pueblo of the Arkansas.  We left that place about the 25th of November, with upwards of a hundred good mules, and one hundred and thirty bushels of shelled corn, intended to support our animals across the snow of the high mountains, and down to the lower parts of the Grand River tributaries, where usually the snow forms no obstacle to winter travelling.  At the Pueblo I had engaged as a guide an old trapper well known as `Bill Williams,' and who had spent some twenty-five years of his life in trapping various parts of the Rocky Mountains.  The error of our journey was committed in engaging this man.  He proved never to have in the least known, or entirely to have forgotten, the whole region of country through which we were to pass.  We occupied more than half a month in making the journey of a few days, blundering a tortuous way through deep snow, which already began to choke up the passes, for which we were obliged to waste time in searching.  About the 11th of December we found ourselves at the north of the Del Norte Can&tilde;on, where that river issues from the St. John's Mountain, one of the highest, most rugged, and impracticable of all the Rocky Mountain ranges, inaccessible to trappers and hunters even in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:summer-time.  Across the point of this elevated range our guide conducted us, and having still great condidence in his knowledge, we pressed onward with fatal resolution.  Even along the river-bottoms the snos was already belly-deep for the mules, frequently snowing in the valley and almost constantly in the mountains.  The cold was extraordinary; at the warmest hours of the day (between one and two) the thermometer (Fahrenheit) standing in the shade of only a tree trunk at zero; the day sunshiny, with a moderate breeze.  We pressed up towards the summit, the snow deepening, and in four or five days reached the naked ridges which lie above the timbered country, and which form the dividing grounds between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.  Along these naked ridges it storms nearly all winter, and the winds sweep across them with remorseless fury.  On our first attempt to cross we encountered a <HI REND="italics">poudrerie</HI>
188.sgm:, and were driven back, having some ten or twelve men variously frozen--face, hands, or feet.  The guide became nigh being frozen to death here, and dead mules were already lying about the fires.  Meantime it snowed steadily.  The next day we made mauls, and, beating a road or trench through the snow, crossed the crest in defiance of the <HI REND="italics">poudrerie</HI>
188.sgm:, and encamped immediately below in the edge of the timber.  The trail showed as if a defeated party had passed by--pack-saddles and packs, scattered articles of clothing, and dead mules strewed along.  A continuance of stormy weather paralyzed all movement.  We were encamped somewhere about 12,000 feet above the sea.  Westward the country was buried in deep snow.  It was impossible to advance, and to turn back was equally impracticable.  We were over taken by sudden and inevitable ruin.  It so happened that the only places where any grass could be had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:were the extreme summits of the ridges, where the sweeping winds kept the rocky ground bare, and the snow could not lie.  Below these, animals could not get about, the snow being deep enough to bury them.  Here, therefore, in the full violence of the storms, we were obliged to keep our animals.  They could not be moved either way.  It was instantly apparent that we should lose every animal.</p><P>"I determined to recross the mountain more towards the open country, and haul or pack the baggage (by men) down to the Del Norte.  With great labor the baggage was transported across the crest to the head springs of a little stream leading to the main river.  A few days were sufficient to destroy our fine band of mules.  They generally kept huddled together, and as they froze, one would be seen to tumble down, and the snow would cover him; sometimes they would break off and rush down towards the timber until they were stopped by the deep snow, where they were soon hidden by the <HI REND="italics">poudrerie</HI>
188.sgm:.  The courage of the men failed fast; in fact, I have never seen men so soon discouraged by misfortune as we were on this occasion; but, as you know, the party was not constituted like the former ones.  But among those who deserve to be honorably mentioned, and who behaved like what they were--men of the old exploring party--were Godey, King, and Taplin; and first of all Godey.  In this situation I determined to send in a party to the Spanish settlements of New Mexico for provisions and mules to transport our baggage to Taos.  With economy, and after we should leave the mules, we had not two weeks' provisions in the camp.  These consisted of a store which I had reserved for a hard day--macaroni and bacon.  From among the volunteers I chose King, Brackenridge, Creutzfeldt, and the guide <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:Williams; the party under the command of King.  In case of the least delay at the settlements, he was to send me an express.  In the meantime, we were to occupy ourselves in removing the baggage and equipage down to the Del Norte, which we reached with our baggage in a few days after their departure (which was the day after Christmas).  Like many a Christmas for years back, mine was spent on the summit of a wintry mountain, my heart filled with gloomy and anxious thoughts, with none of the merry faces and pleasant luxuries that belong to that happy time.  You may be sure we contrasted much this with the last at Washington, and speculated much on your doings, and made many warm wishes for your happiness.  Could you have looked into Agrippa's glass for a few moments only!  You remember the volumes of Blackstone which I took from your father's library when we were overlooking it at our friend Brant's?  They made my Christmas amusements.  I read them to pass the heavy time and forget what was around me.  Certainly you may suppose that my first law lessons will be well remembered.  Day after day passed by, and no news from our express party.  Snow continued to fall almost incessantly on the mountain.  The spirits of the camp grew lower.  Proue laid down in the trail and froze to death.  In a sunshiny day, and having with him means to make a fire, he threw his blankets down in the trail and lay there till he froze to death.  After sixteen days had elapsed from King's departure, I became so uneasy at the delay that I decided to wait no longer.  I was aware that our troops had been engaged in hostilities with the Spanish Utahs and Apaches, who range in the North River Valley, and became fearful that they (King's party) had been cut off by these Indians.  I could imagine no other accident.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:Leaving the camp employed with the baggage and in charge of Mr. Vincenthaler, I started down the river with a small party, consisting of Godey (with his young nephew), Mr. Preuss, and Saunders.  We carried our arms and provisions for two or three days.  In the camp the messes had provisions for two or three meals, more or less, and about five pounds of sugar to each man.  Failing to meet King, my intention was to make the Red River settlement, about twenty-five miles north of Taos, and send back the speediest relief possible.  My instructions to the camp were that if they did not hear from me in a stated time, they were to follow down the Del Norte.</p><P>"On the second day after leaving camp we came upon a fresh trail of Indians--two lodges, with a considerable number of animals.  This did not lessen our uneasiness for our people.  As their trail when we met it turned and went down the river, we followed it.  On the fifth day we surprised an Indian on the ice of the river.  He proved to be a Utah, son of a Grand River chief we had formerly known, and behaved to us in a friendly manner.  We encamped near them at night.  By a present of a rifle, my two blankets, and other promised rewards when we should get in, I prevailed upon this Indian to go with us as a guide to the Red River settlement, and take with him four of his horses, principally to carry our little baggage.  These were wretchedly poor, and could get along only in a very slow walk.  On that day (the sixth) we left the lodges late, and travelled only some six or seven miles.  About sunset we discovered a little smoke in a grove of timber off from the river, and thinking perhaps it might be our express party on its return, we went to see.  This was the twenty-second day since they had left us, and the sixth since we had left the camp.  We found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:them--three of them, Crentzfeldt, Brackenridge, and Williams--the most miserable objects I have ever seen.  I did not recognize Creutzfeldt's features when Brackenridge brought him up to me and mentioned his name.  They had been starving.  King had starved to death a few days before.  His remains were some six or eight miles above, near the river.  By aid of the horses, we carried these three men with us to Red River settlement, which we reached (January 20) on the tenth evening after leaving our camp in the mountains, having travelled through snow and on foot 160 miles.  I look upon the anxiety which induced me to set out from the camp as an inspiration.  Had I remained there waiting the party which had been sent in, every man of us would probably have perished.</p><P>"The morning after reaching the Red River town, Godey and myself rode on to the Rio Hondo and Taos in search of animals and supplies, and on the second evening after that on which we had reached Red River, Godey had returned to that place with about thirty animals, provisions, and four Mexicans, with which he set out for the camp on the following morning.  On the road he received eight or ten others, which were turned over to him by the orders of Major Beale, the commanding officer of this northern district of New Mexico.  I expect that Godey will reach this place with the party on Wednesday evening, the 31st.  From Major Beale I received the offer of every aid in his power, and such actual assistance as he was able to render.  Some horses which he had just recovered from the Utahs were loaned to me, and he supplied me from the commissary's department with provisions which I could have had nowhere else.  I find myself in the midst of friends.  With Carson is living Owens, and Maxwell is at his father-in-law's, doing a very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:prosperous business as a merchant and contractor for the troops.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Evening</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P>"Mr. St. Vrain and Aubrey, who have just arrived from Santa Fe&acute; on the 15th of February for St. Louis, so that by him I have an early and certain opportunity of sending you my letters.  Beale left Santa Fe&acute; on his journey to California on the 9th of this month.  He probably carried on with him any letters which might have been at Santa Fe&acute; for me.  I shall probably reach California with him or shortly after him.  Say to your father that these are my plans for the future.</p><P>"At the beginning of February (about Saturday) I shall set out for California, taking the southern route by the Rio Abajo, the Paso del Norte, and the south side of the Gila, entering California at the Agua Caliente, thence to Los Angeles, and immediately north.  I shall break up my party here, and take with me only a few men.  The survey has been uninterrupted up to this point, and I shall carry it on consecutively.  As soon as possible after reaching California I will go on with the survey of the coast and coast country.  Your father knows that this is an object of great desire with me, and I trust it is not too much to hope that he may obtain the countenance and aid of the President (whoever he may be) in carrying it on effectually and rapidly to completion.  For this I hope earnestly.  I shall then be enabled to draw up a map and report on the whole country, agreeably to our previous anticipations.  <HI REND="italics">All my other plans remain entirely unaltered</HI>
188.sgm:.  I shall take immediate steps to make ourselves a good home in California, and to have a place ready for your reception, which I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:anticipate for April.  My hopes and wishes are more strongly than ever turned that way.</p><P>"<HI REND="italics">Monday</HI>
188.sgm:, 29.</p><P>"My letter now assumes a journal form.  No news yet from the party.  A great deal of falling weather; rain and sleet here, and snow in the mountains.  This is to be considered a poor country--mountainous, with severe winters and but little arable land.  To the United States it seems to me to offer little other value than the right of way.  It is throughout infested with Indians, with whom, in the course of the present year, the United States will be at war, as well as in the Oregon Territory.  To hold this country will occasion the government great expense, and certainly one can see no source of profit or advantage in it.  An additional regiment will be required for special service here.</p><P>"Mr. St. Vrain dined with us to-day.  Owens goes to Missouri in April to get married, and thence by water to California.  Carson is very anxious to go there with me now, and afterwards remove his family thither, but he cannot decide to break off from Maxwell and family connections.</p><P>"I am anxiously waiting to hear from my party, in much uncertainty as to their fate.  My presence kept them together and quiet, my absence may have had a bad effect.  When we overtook King's starving party, Brackenridge said that he `would rather have seen me than his father.'  He felt himself safe.</p><P>"Taos, New Mexico, <HI REND="italics">February</HI>
188.sgm: 6, 1849.</p><P>"After a long delay, which had wearied me to a point of resolving to set out again myself, tidings have at last reached me from my ill-fated party.  Mr. Haler came in last night, having the night before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:reached the Red River settlement, with some three or four others.  Including Mr. King and Proue, we have lost eleven of our party.  Occurrences after I left them are briefly these, so far as they are within Haler's knowledge.  I say briefly, because now I am unwilling to force myself to dwell upon particulars.  I wish for a time to shut out these things from my mind, to leave this country, and all thoughts and all things connected with recent events, which have been so signally disastrous as absolutely to astonish me with a persistence of misfortune, which no precaution has been adequate on my part to avert.</p><P>"You will remember that I had left the camp with occupation sufficient to employ them for three or four days, after which they were to follow me down the river.  Within that time I had expected the relief from King, if it was to come at all.</p><P>"They remained where I had left them seven days, and then started down the river.  Manuel--you will remember Manuel, the Cosumne Indian--gave way to a feeling of despair after they had travelled about two miles, begged Haler to shoot him, and then turned and made his way back to the camp, intending to die there, as he doubtless soon did.  They followed our trail down the river--twenty-two men they were in all.  About ten miles below the camp, Wise gave out, threw away his gun and blanket, and a few hundred yards farther fell over into the snow and died.  Two Indian boys--young men, countrymen of Manuel--were behind.  They rolled up Wise in his blanket, and buried him in the snow on the river-bank.  No more died that day--none the next.  Carver raved during the night, his imagination wholly occupied with images of many things which he fancied himself eating.  In the morning he wandered off from the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:party, and probably soon died.  They did not see him again.  Sorel on this day gave out, and laid down to die.  They built him a fire, and Morin, who was in a dying condition, and snow-blind, remained.  These two did not probably last till the next morning.  That evening, I think, Hubbard killed a deer.  They travelled on, getting here and there a grouse, but probably nothing else, the snow having frightened off the game.  Things were desperate, and brought Haler to the determination of breaking up the party in order to prevent them from living upon each other.  He told them `that he had done all he could for them, that they had no other hope remaining than the expected relief, and that their best plan was to scatter and make the best of their way in small parties down the river.  That, for his part, if he was to be eaten, he would, at all events, be found travelling when he did die.'  They accordingly separated.  With Mr. Haler continued five others and the two Indian boys.  Rohrer now became very despondent.  Haler encouraged him by recalling to mind his family, and urged him to hold out a little longer.  On this day he fell behind, but promised to overtake them at evening.  Haler, Scott, Hubbard, and Martin agreed that if any one of them should give out, the others were not to wait for him to die, but build a fire for him, and push on.  At night Kern's mess encamped a few hundred yards from Haler's, with the intention, according to Taplin, to remain where they were until the relief should come, and, in the meantime, to live upon those who had died, and upon the weaker ones as they should die.  With the three Kerns were Cathcart, Andrews, M`Kie, Stepperfeldt, and Taplin.</p><P>"Ferguson and Beadle had remained together behind.  In the evening Rohrer came up and remained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:with Kern's mess.  Mr. Haler learned afterwards from that mess that Rohrer and Andrews wandered off the next day and died.  They say they saw their bodies.  In the morning Haler's party continued on.  After a few hours Hubbard gave out.  They built him a fire, gathered him some wood, and left him, without, as Haler says, turning their heads to look at him as they went off.  About two miles farther, Scott--you remember Scott, who used to shoot birds for you at the frontier--gave out.  They did the same for him as for Hubbard, and continued on.  In the afternoon the Indian boys went ahead, and before nightfall met Godey with the relief.  Haler heard and knew the guns which he fired for him at night, and, starting early in the morning, soon met him.  I hear that they all cried together like children.  Haler turned back with Godey, and went with him to where they had left Scott.  He was still alive, and was saved.  Hubbard was dead--still warm.  From Kern's mess they learned the death of Andrews and Rohrer, and a little above met Ferguson, who told them that Beadle had died the night before.</p><P>"Godey continued on with a few New Mexicans and pack-mules to bring down the baggage from the camp.  Haler, with Martin and Bacon, on foot, and bringing Scott on horseback, have first arrived at the Red River settlement.  Provisions and horses for them to ride were left with the others, who preferred to rest on the river until Godey came back.  At the latest, they should all have reached Red River settlement last night, and ought all to be here this evening.  When Godey arrives, I shall know from him all the circumstances sufficiently in detail to enable me to understand clearly everything.  But it will not be necessary to tell you anything further.  It has been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:sufficient pain for you to read what I have already written.</p><P>"As I told you, I shall break up my party here.  I have engaged a Spaniard to furnish mules to take my little party, with our baggage, as far down the Del Norte as Albuquerque.  To-morrow a friend sets out to purchase me a few mules, with which he is to meet me at Albuquerque, and thence I continue the journey on my own animals.  My road will take me down the Del Norte about 160 miles below Albuquerque, and then passes between this river and the heads of the Gila to a little Mexican town called, I think, Tusson; thence to the mouth of the Gila and across the Colorado, direct to Agua Caliente, into California.  I intend to make the journey rapidly, and about the middle of March hope for the great pleasure of hearing from home.  I look for a large supply of newspapers and documents, more, perhaps, because these things have a home look about them than on their own account.  When I think of you all, I feel a warm glow at my heart, which renovates it like a good medicine, and I forget painful feelings in a strong hope for the future.  We shall yet enjoy quiet and happiness together--these are nearly one and the same to me now.  I make frequently pleasant pictures of the happy home we are to have, and oftenest and among the pleasantest of all I see our library, with its bright fire in the rainy, stormy days, and the large windows looking out upon the sea in the bright weather.  I have it all planned in my own mind."</p><P>Now friends and strangers both rose to protest against my going any farther; every one was convinced that, after such <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:fatigues and starvation, Mr. Fre&acute;mont would not succeed in making his way through an unknown country to California, and that I should find no one to meet me when I did reach there.  This decided me to go on, for I could not accept that idea.</p><P>The ladies in whose house I was were as kind as possible to me, and fortunately I could speak Spanish with them.  All this time there was no steamer either from round the Horn or from California, and the only way of leaving the Isthmus was to return to New York, which was insisted upon by friends who thought that I ought not to wait any longer, with such uncertainties of transfer, and the greater uncertainty ahead.  It was a forlorn situation.  On the yellowed leaf of a "little well-worn book," in faded ink, I see now the words, "Alone.  Panama, May, 1849," and the quotation,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"On a narrow strip of land,<LB>`Twixt two unbounded seas, I stand."</HI>
188.sgm:</p><P>Mr. Gray, one of the Boundary Commissioners, came to me early one morning with a newspaper containing a long letter from my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:father regarding the expedition, in which he gave, for the benefit of the friends of those with Mr. Fre&acute;mont, all that was known positively of the expedition, and the most reasonable and reasoning conjectures as to the safety and results of that which had just started again from New Mexico.  About sundown Mr. Gray came back with another newspaper, with still more on the same subject.  He found me where he had left me in the morning--sitting upon the sofa, with the unopened paper clasped in my hand, my eyes closed, and my forehead purple from congestion of the brain, and entirely unable to understand anything said to me.  All the long train of troubled feeling and uncertainties and discomforts, aided by the climate, had culminated in brain-fever.</p><P>Now came all the benefit of being in a private family; Madame Arce&acute; cared for me as though I had been her own child, and so conscientiously that she summoned an American, although her own preference was for her Spanish family physician.  His course of treatment was to exclude all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:outer air, and follow the old Spanish practice of bleeding, and hot water internally and externally.  The American physician (attached to the Boundary Commission) was for iced drinks, cooling applications to the head, currents of fresh air, and blisters.  These two, with their contradictory ideas and their inability to understand each other fully, only added to the confusion of my mind, and became part of my delirium.  My lungs were congested, and it was needed to apply a blister all over the chest.  No leeches could be had, and croton-oil, which would have answered the purpose without leaving disfiguring marks, was not to be found anywhere.  And here I had another of the kindnesses done me, of which I have had so many before and since, from American men, who deserve fully their reputation for disinterested kindness and care towards women.  No one ventured willingly into the sun; but a gentleman had himself rowed out to an English man-of-war which lay in the bay, and found in their medicine-chest the croton-oil that was needed.  This was no small thing to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:do.  The reef in the harbor at Panama is so far extended that vessels had to lie out about three miles; the tide rises twenty-five feet, so that not only was it a protracted exposure to the sun, but dangerous from the impetuosity with which the tide came in.</p><P>My brother-in-law all this time remained dangerously ill from the effects of his sun-stroke, and as he had to be taken back to the United States, even my new Spanish friends thought I too should return at the same time.  I had become well enough to walk as far as the ramparts, which were very near the house.  All the Americans came there the hour before sunset, the only cool time of the day.  They were an eager, animated set of people when first there, but the failure of the steamers to arrive had told upon every one.  They felt, like ship-wrecked people, that there was no escape from there; every sailing vessel that could be chartered had been to carry up the people.  Those who had their through tickets still held to the hope that one steamer might come round the Horn if the other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:did not return.  The first time I went to the ramparts after my illness the sight of this discouraged set of people almost decided me to go home, all the more that with the natural kindliness of fellow-countrymen in a distant place many of them came up, as I sat upon the old brass gun in an embrasure, to tell me how glad they were I had not died, and begged me not to stay there any longer, but to go back.  I was spared the necessity of deciding for or against by the simultaneous arrival of the two steamers, one from California, the other from around the Horn, both getting there in the night within an hour of each other; so that their guns were mistaken for a second fire--it was supposed the first steamer had fired again.  Every one had been listening for weeks for these guns.  It was a splendid moonlight night, about two o'clock, and in a few minutes all the Americans had crowded to the ramparts, and the native people were up and talking on the streets.  All the passengers were landing, but the interest concentrated on those from California.  Straightway men <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:forgot all the trials connected with the crossing and the waiting, for there was the stream of returning gold-diggers, bringing with them the evidence that in the new country was more than justification for all the trials they were going through with to reach there.  Of course I was up, dressed, and looking at all this busy throng crowding the great square which was in front of our house.  I heard my own name, and caught sight of a familiar face and uniform as two gentlemen turned into the entrance below the balcony.  One of them was saying, "Mrs. Fre&acute;mont here!  Heavens, what a crib for a lady!"  The naval officer<ANCHOR ID="n1-3">*</ANCHOR>
188.sgm: was on his way direct to Washington with official statements and gold specimens forwarded to the government.  Here was the hardest trial for me.  This time I was not advised but ordered to go home, and everything short of force was used to make me return, under their care.  I had only a few hours to decide, for at the earliest light they had to leave to connect with the returning steamer.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3">Edward F. Beale, late minister to Austria.</NOTE>
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188.sgm:<P>In the chronicle of the conquest of Mexico there is one night of disaster and massacre which Bernal Diaz records under the head <HI REND="italics">tristi&acute;sima noche</HI>
188.sgm:; I had had many sad nights since leaving home, but after my old friends left I think I could name this my saddest.</p><P>After this I did no more deciding, but let myself go with the current.  The <HI REND="italics">Panama</HI>
188.sgm:, having just come round the Horn with but few passengers, and having had for its commander Lieutenant (now Admiral) Porter, was in admirable condition, and I was put upon her.  Her sister steamer was in all the disorder and discomfort resulting from the want of a proper crew and servants.  Lieutenant Porter left the ship here, and the captain who took charge broke down on the voyage from fever, and died shortly after.  There were accommodations at most for eighty passengers; we had over four hundred.  The ship's steward gave us scanty fare, reserving the canned provisions to sell for his own benefit.  For a piece of gold he would sell a little can of vegetables or preserved meat.  As <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:usual, I, however, was thoroughly well taken care of.  My cough was incessant and racking, and I saw so many eyes turned to me with pity in them that I left the deck and went to my cabin to be where I would disturb no one.  The gentleman in the next state-room became alarmed by the peculiar sound of the cough which he understood better than I did, and getting no answer to his knock opened the door and found me, as he feared, with a broken blood-vessel.  After that I was better off than before, for they made me a room on the quarter-deck with the big flag doubled and thrown over the boom.  Everybody contributed something to make me comfortable: one a folding iron camp-bedstead--some, guava jelly--some, tea--while one of my fellow-passengers gave me from his own private stores delicate nourishing things which brought back my strength, and personally superintended their preparation.  That this was kindly felt as well as well done will be understood by all who know him--Mr. Samuel Ward.  There were several ladies, and one of them, the wife of an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:officer, shared my deck tent.  The ship was so crowded that the whole floor of the deck was chalked out into measured spaces allotted to persons who slept there.  My state-room was kept merely for a dressing-room, and I let a good quiet woman who was out of money, and whose husband was working his passage up, sleep there.  My "reliable woman" claimed her place in it, but she had to go up in the steerage.  I had paid all her expenses in Panama at the hotel, and through to San Francisco, on condition that she never came in my sight.  The seven weeks in Panama had proved that new scenes brought no desire for reformation, and by this time there was no popular opinion to sustain her.  To dismiss her with a completed record, I will add that one of the great fires in San Francisco in 1851 was traced to her, where she had set fire to her dwelling-house in revenge on Mr. DeLessert for having refused to permit her to remain as his tenant.  The Vigilance Committee, as she was a woman, disliked to punish her as they did other criminals; so she was only sent out of the country.  It must have been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:some comfort to her to know that my house was burned in the fire she had started.</p><P>The first voyage had only made me know the ocean by day, but on this journey up the Pacific I learned to know it by night also.  My flag tent on deck first taught me the luxury of sleeping in the open air, <HI REND="italics">a&grave; la belle e&acute;toile</HI>
188.sgm:, truly; and the still greater delight of watching the night through all its phases, and seeing the sun rise from the ocean: it was full compensation for all the discomforts of the voyage.  As I have said, the deck was parcelled out into sleeping-places; nearest us were the gentlemen of our more immediate party and acquaintance.  I overheard among these one night a stir and murmuring which took shape to my mind as the announcement of some impending danger; I caught the sense that the captain would not open his door, that the captain would not answer any one, and then the quick decision to do themselves what was necessary.  A new sound was added to that made by the steamer's way through the water--a low, busy, grating, whispering sound of waters--and I could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:see long broken lines of foamy white, which even my inexperience told me were unusual.  Seeing that we were sitting up and listening, we were told not to be alarmed, although we were in sound of the breakers, that there was time yet to work the ship off, and that Captain Ringgold had taken command.  I was too ignorant to be alarmed.  To me it was only a beautiful new phase of the sea.  It was fortunate for us that we had experienced naval officers on board, for the captain remained ill, and they proved a safe dependence.</p><P>As our voyage wore on, the lack of reading-matter began to be felt; we had all exhausted our supply during the long detention at Panama before getting on ship-board, and there was nothing to be exchanged, for each one had the same thing.  Everybody had a Shakespeare and not much besides.  Something was said among us one day about this: how people inevitably read the same books, thought the same thoughts, and used the same expressions; how rare it was under the sun to find anything new or fresh; whether from want of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:courage to do our own thinking, or unwillingness to make the breach in received usages, we continually would follow in grooves laid for us.  The first school of whales we met illustrated this.  I sent different gentlemen about the deck to quietly ascertain what the people were writing in their note-books, for every one had produced a little note-book as soon as the whales were seen.  I was sure that the greater number would put it, "This morning, for the first time, we met the leviathan of the deep disporting himself in his native element," or, "Glorious sight! huge monsters at play!"  I was sure very few would call a whale a whale, and it proved so.  It was a morning's fun for us to watch the different ambassadors on their missions: they would draw out the unsuspecting writer, saying "there was a fine sight;" "something to write home about;" "it was very hard to keep a journal on a monotonous sea-voyage," etc.  Then the writer would proudly read out what he had been preparing for home.  In almost every case it was the stereotyped sentence.  When the returns <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:were in, we found "the leviathan" had it by an immense majority; very few whales.</p><P>For myself, I did not miss books.  I was in the languid content of convalescence, and it was enough to lie still and take in so much that was new and, as a German friend of mine puts it, "harmonious" to me.  From my flag tent on deck I loved to look out, myself in shadow, to the deep blue of the ocean, stretching far, far, to where it joined with the line of the cloudless blue sky--to the calm splendor of the bronze and golden sunset clouds at that grand moment of the sun's setting in the ocean.  I had never before seen the stars all through a night.  I had not known how close, how animated, they could be.  I had never watched the paling of the stars before the coming day, nor that beautiful ripple that, just at sunrise, comes with the first breath of morning.  Like nothing else in nature for its suggestion of freshness and new happy life, except the smile that sometimes comes on the face of a sleeping baby about to wake.</p><P>There was no need to keep a journal  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:Everything burned itself in its own image on my mind, and all settled there as part of the endless talks I should have when, returned home, like Sindbad, I should relate my voyages.</p><P>Against all adverse circumstances was the pure air of the ocean coming into my lungs night and day and healing them.  By the time we reached San Diego I was fairly well; but I do not know how it would have been if fresh discouragements had reached me there.  At this point I was to learn whether Mr. Fre&acute;mont had or had not arrived in California.  As we dropped anchor, and boats put off to us from the shore, I went below.  If I had needed any proof of the universal good feeling and interest in me, it came now, for I think the whole ship's passengers crowded to my door.  "The Colonel has come!"  "The Colonel is safe!"  "It's all right now, madam!"  "The Colonel was in the Angeles three weeks ago," and had gone up overland to meet the steamer, which was overdue.  Then their fears and sympathies were openly expressed to me.  No one had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:thought it possible that a party so broken down with hardships could force its way in the winter months through the then unknown country, and they dreaded the result for me.</p><P>The few remaining days of the journey were completely charming.  We had come into bracing cool air, which repaired the damage done by the tropics, and every one was eager and confident of success in the now certain gold country.  Major Derby ("John Ph&oelig;nix") gave way to his wildest fun and high spirits, and organized a series of <HI REND="italics">tableaux vivants</HI>
188.sgm: and theatricals that were acted every night on deck in a way that would have made the fortune of a theatrical manager--there were many cultivated and charming people among the passengers--and altogether life seemed very bright and full of happy possibilities as we entered the Golden Gate.<ANCHOR ID="n1-4">*</ANCHOR>
188.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-4"><P>"Called <HI REND="italics">Chrysopyl&oelig;</HI>
188.sgm: (Golden Gate) on the map, on the same principle that the harbor of <HI REND="italics">Byzantium</HI>
188.sgm: --Constantinople afterwards--was called <HI REND="italics">Chrysocer&oelig;</HI>
188.sgm: (Golden Horn).  The form of the harbor and its advantages for commerce, and that before it became an entrepo&circ;t of Eastern commerce, suggested the name to the Greek founders of Byzantium.  The form of the bay of San Francisco and its advantages for commerce, Asiatic inclusive, suggest the name which is given to this entrance."</p><P>This is a foot-note occurring in "Senate Document, Miscellaneous, No. 148, Thirieth Congress, First Session."  A resolution dated "June 5, 1848," ordered the printing of this document, which is called "Geographical Memoir upon Upper California in Illustration of his Map of Oregon and California, by John Charles Fre&acute;mont."</p><P>There have been various versions of the naming of the entrance to the bay of San Francisco.  This was the origin of the name given on the map published in June of '48.  The first gold was found in August of that year.<HSEP>J.B.F.</p></NOTE>
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188.sgm:<P>We found a bleak and meagre frontispiece to our Book of Fate.  A few low houses, and many tents, such as they were, covered the base of some of the wind-swept treeless hills, over which the June fog rolled its chilling mist.  Deserted ships of all sorts were swinging with the tide.  A crowd of men swarmed about what is now Montgomery Street, then the mud shore of the bay.  It was Aladdin's old lamp, however, homely as it seemed, and fortune was there for those who had what my father used to call "a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:stomach for a fight," or for those who, born lucky, succeed by virtue of the unknown force to which we concede that term.</p><P>The mere landing of the passengers was a problem.  The crews who took boats to shore were pretty sure not to come back.  The <HI REND="italics">Ohio</HI>
188.sgm:, Captain Ap Catesby Jones commanding, was there.  Captain Jones very kindly invited me on board to remain until Mr. Fre&acute;mont should arrive, for I had the disappointment of finding he was not yet here.  Mr. Howard, a wealthy merchant, had brought out his boat, and I accepted his invitation, as after so much sea travel the land was best for me.</p><P>There were then some three or four regularly built houses in San Francisco, representing the Hudson Bay and the Russian hide business; the rest were canvas and blanket tents.  Of course there was no lumber there for building, and there were not even trees to be cut down; nor would any man have diverted his attention from the mines to go to house-building.  A little later, when they found the hardships of mining life too great and the returns too <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:uncertain, the tide turned, and many men came back to make fortunes at steady work in building up the town.  Sixteen dollars a day was ordinary pay for carpenters.  The young officers of the army and navy there used to lament to me that their business was so far less profitable.  One of them turned to profit his having been on the Wilkes surveying expedition, and made really a great sum of money by piloting in the thick incoming fleet of vessels of all sorts.</p><P>I was taken to one of these houses, which had been the residence of Liedesdorff, the Russian consul, who had recently died there.  It was a time of wonderful contrasts.  This was a well-built adobe house one story high, with a good veranda about it, and a beautiful garden kept in old-world order by a Scotch gardener.  Luxuries of every kind were to be had, but there were wanting some necessaries.  Fine carpets and fine furniture and a fine Broadwood piano, and no house-maid.  The one room with a fire-place had been prepared for my sleeping-room, and had French furniture and no end of mirrors, but lacked a fire.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>The June winds were blowing, and I felt them the more from recent illness, which had left the lungs very sensitive.  There was no fuel proper; and little fagots of brush-wood, broken-up goods boxes and sodden ends of old ship timber were all that could be had.</p><P>The club of wealthy merchants who had this house together had excellent Chinese servants, but to make everything comfortable to me they added the only woman that could be procured, who accepted a temporary place of chamber-maid at two hundred and forty dollars a month and perquisites.  One of the perquisites was the housing of her husband and children as well as herself.  She had been washer-woman to a New York regiment, and was already the laundress of these gentlemen.  She was kind enough to tell me that she liked my clothes, and would take the pattern of certain dresses, and seemed to think it a matter of course that I would let her carry off gowns and wraps to be copied by her dress-maker, a Chinaman.  I declined this as civilly as I could, but the result was that she threw up the situation.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>The only really private house was one belonging to a young New-Yorker, who had it shipped from home, house and furniture complete--a double two-story frame house, which, when in place, was said to have cost ninety thousand dollars.  At this price, with the absence of timber and the absence of labor, it will be seen that it was difficult to have any other shelter than a tent.  The bride for whose reception this house was intended arrived just before me, but lived only a few weeks; the sudden and great changes of climate from our Northern weather into the tropics, and from the tropics again into the raw, harsh winds of that season at San Francisco, were too much for her, even with all the comforts of her own beautiful home.  At a party given to welcome her the whole force of San Francisco society came out, the ladies sixteen in number.</p><P>Visits in the daytime were held as a marked attention.  I was told that "time was worth fifty dollars a minute," and that I must hold as a great compliment the brief visits which were made to me constantly through the day by busy men.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>There was not only gold to be had at the mines, but a golden shower was falling for whoever had wit to catch it.  I heard of many marvellous strokes of fortune, which caused elevated eyebrows when I repeated them on my return.</p><P>Our steamer was to have put in at Monterey, but her fuel was so nearly exhausted that we made straight for San Francisco.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont had ridden up from the Angeles to Monterey to meet me, and, after waiting there a little, and no steamer arriving, came on to San Francisco, getting there about ten days after I did--fortunately for me, for I was already getting ill again with morbid imaginings that I had been deceived, and that he had not arrived in the country at all.  Now that we have the telegraph and railroad, as well as our steamer connection, only those who experienced the want of all these can realize the dead blank absence created then.</p><P>The winds of San Francisco had renewed the trouble with my lungs, and we went down by steamer to Monterey, where there was a very different climate.  Bayard <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:Taylor has celebrated the noble pine-trees that border the Pacific here.</p><P>There was none of the stir and life here which made San Francisco so remarkable.  There was a small garrison of married officers with their families, but no man of any degree voluntarily kept away from the mines or San Francisco; it was their great opportunity for sudden money-making.  Domestic matters were even more upset than in San Francisco, where Chinese could be had.  Here it was like after a shipwreck on a desert shore; the strongest and the most capable was king, and, to produce anything like comfort, all capacities had to be put to use.  The major-general in command of the post, General Riley, was his own gardener.  He came to me, proud and triumphant, with a small market-basket on his arm, containing vegetables of his own raising.  And as we would bring roses of our cultivation, so he brought me a present of a cabbage, some carrots, and parsley.</p><P>The French ships brought cargoes of everything that could be sealed up in tin cans and glass, but the stomach grows very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:weary of this sort of food.  It was barely a year since the gold had been discovered, but in that time every eatable thing had been eaten off the face of the country, and nothing raised.  I suppose there was not a fowl left in the northern part of the state, consequently not an egg; all the beef cattle left had been bought up by "Baron" Steinberger in San Francisco; there were no longer vaqueros or herdsmen, and flocks and herds had dispersed.</p><P>There were no cows, consequently no milk.  Housekeeping, deprived of milk, eggs, vegetables, and fresh meat, becomes a puzzle; canned meat, macaroni, rice, and ham become unendurable from repetition.  There were only the half-domesticated Indians as servants--poor cooks at best; and while wood was abundant around here, there was no one to cut it.  Mrs. Canby, wife of one of the officers, was fortunate in having an attached as well as capable servant, a Mexican mulatto who had been with General Canby through the Mexican war, and who remained with them against all temptations.  This man was a very capable baker, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:and until I was fortunate enough to chance upon a cook, Mrs. Canby sent me daily a fragrant loaf of fresh bread, wrapped in its clean napkin and on a beautiful china plate.  Nor was I the only one who felt the great kindness of this lady; she was kind and thoughtful for all--the children of the soldiers, any one; wherever she could give help, she did so.</p><P>General Canby was one of those modest officers whose promotion fell behind his merits.  My father was for twenty-eight years chairman of the Senate Military Committee, and while the Secretary of War changed with the changing political fortunes of the day, he remained fixed, the comprehending and thorough friend of the army.  Understanding army interests, and having his friendships with officers, he was its intelligent and useful friend.  I think it is to him that is due the longevity ration.  When, my voyage over and myself safe back at home, I told of this among the many other kindnesses shown to me, my father quietly looked up General (then Major) Canby's position, had him written to, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:the result was promotion and a more congenial post.  Both himself and his wife were so good and gentle, and thorough in their kindness to others, that it seemed unnatural he should meet a cruel death.</p><P>Monterey was quite a town, with many good houses.  Their adobe walls looked like rough stone, while the red-tiled roofs gave color and picturesquenes--the finer houses built with a disregard of space, a long front to the street, and short wings running back at either end, while the remainder of the square was a large garden, shut in by high adobe walls with a coping of red tiles.</p><P>Travel teaches one that there <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
188.sgm: nothing new under the sun.  In all the different countries in which I have been, and in all grades of society, everywhere I have seen certain characteristics inevitably repeated.  There are women in all classes upon whom every advantage is thrown away; while there are as certainly to be met with in every grade women who seem to have a creative faculty for embellishing life; they seem to have the power of not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:only using to the best advantage what they have, but even to create resources about them.  I could see this even in the village of Digger Indians who were my nearest neighbors on the Mariposas; one woman would have her baby in a frightful condition of dirt, the coarse black hair matted into its eyelashes; while another would have hers clean, and hung about with necklace and decorations of bits of polished bone, beads, ends of red tape, even wax seals which she had cut from envelopes thrown away, while her shock of black hair was comparatively tidy and in some order.  This difference of capacity was eminently noticeable at this time in California, where all usual surroundings were not to be had.</p><P>Among the California ladies were some married to Americans, and they came at once to see me; others, who were thoroughly Californian, and to whom my name represented only invasion and defeat, did not come at first, but after a little were among the kindest people I knew there.  The only cow in the town belonged to one of these, and she sent me daily a portion of the milk, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:because I too had a little child.  They had very much the life of our Southern people; their household, their children, their domestic surroundings, filled their days busily and contentedly.  Their houses were charmingly neat and orderly, and when I made a visit I generally found the lady of the house sitting in the inner court, shaded by the projecting roof, and surrounded by domesticated Indian girls at their sewing.</p><P>They seemed to have the passion of Hollanders for the accumulation of household linen; also for satin dresses, which they bought in number, and had made up without any reference to style or fashion, and packed them away in huge Chinese trunks.  These trunks were painted bright reds, greens, and yellows, with well-executed wreaths of flowers upon them, and were kept as ornamental pieces of furniture in the sitting-rooms, along with French clocks, no end of chandeliers, and other handsome things.  Pictures of church subjects and English hunting-scenes were to be met everywhere.</p><P>In making a visit, one of the first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:attentions was to hand you the cigarette, both made and unmade, in order that you might "consult your habit."  This part of the entertainment was a failure with me, and I had always to explain that I inherited an inability even to endure the smell of tobacco.</p><P>As we show a photographic album, they would open these huge trunks and show the satin dresses.  The Fourth of July made the occasion for a grand ball; there were some Californians in town, and there was a man-of-war, and the post furnished some dancing men, among them a long thin young Captain, since General, Sherman.</p><P>The dressing for this ball was a serious matter to these native Californian ladies.  They had already all these expensive gowns, but they wished something absolutely new and in our fashion--as they expressed it, "as they wore them in the States."  An American who had lived there many years asked me to show her "in strict confidence" my ball dresses; she did not believe me when I told her I had none with me; she said that she would show them to no one else, that only her dress-maker and herself <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:should see them (the dress-maker was the wife of a corporal).  I could not convince her that it was not unwillingness on my part to share "the fashions" with her; she looked upon it as an excuse.  When I said "really I had no evening dresses with me," she broke out with "What have you got in all those trunks, then, for I know you have many trunks?"  I told her to come and see, and insisted that she should look.  When she saw only morning and walking dresses and under-wear, she exclaimed, as though it had dawned upon her that I was a sort of social impostor: "Why, you was <HI REND="italics">pore</HI>
188.sgm: when you left the States!  Why, I have thirty-seven satin dresses, and no two off the same piece."</p><P>The evening of the ball was to disclose the secret of the toilets of the native ladies; each had had a new dress that was to be a surprise to the others; the merchant who sold the goods and the dress-maker who made them were each pledged to let no one know about the others' dress.  When the company assembled, eight of these ladies had gowns exactly alike: a <HI REND="italics">cafe&acute; au lait</HI>
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188.sgm:Chinese satin, with a large pattern on it, making the effect of what we use for furniture covering.  On no account would they have worn a low-necked and short-sleeved dress; so while the sleeves were long, the corsage was completely covered by a large Madras silk handkerchief, pinned down Quaker fashion.</p><P>The largest and best building in the town was the Governor's residence; it occupied double the usual space, and was really a good building, with very thick walls, and a charming great garden, surrounded by a hedge of roses.  I was fortunate to have one wing of this, where I made my first housekeeping.  The large window of one room looked into the bay, with its great crescent-shaped sweep towards Santa Cruz; the boom of its long rollers was with me all the time.  For furniture we had what could be gathered in San Francisco and shipped down by steamer.  Beautiful Chinese matting of varied colors, whole pieces of French and Chinese furniture damask, and Chinese bamboo furniture.  An exquisite circular table of carved and inlaid work made a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:dining-table, and we had beautiful Chinese, French, and English china.  There was no toilet china, but a punch-bowl makes a good basin; the best wax candles, but flat tin candlesticks.  We had one great luxury, a large fire-place for a wood fire, but no shovel, tongs, or andirons, and no wood to be had for money.  Here friendship stepped in, and supplied me bountifully with wood of the right kind and cut in the right way, for the government teamsters were ordered to supply me as they did the ladies of the Post.  I had no servant at all.  A woman with a baby in her arms came to the open door one day, and asked me if I wanted a cook; on being told that I did indeed, she asked, "Would you take one from Sydney?  Because I am from Sydney, and am off the ship that came in yesterday."  She was under the influence of some hurt feeling, and went on: "I have been to the General's and to the Consul's, and they would not have me because I was from Sydney and on that ship.  Why are you not, too, afraid to take me?"  I said, "Because your baby is so clean, so well-kept, and looks so well" (a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:child eighteen months old); "he answers for it that you are clean, patient, and kind."  "You will not repent taking me," the woman said.  And I never did.  She went into place at once, and made me wonderfully comfortable as long as I remained.  She was a thoroughly trained English servant, who had lived in Australia with the wife of the Chief-Justice.  She had all her credentials, and deserved them.</p><P>This need of a cook had been provided for in a man who had already travelled with Mr. Fre&acute;mont, and who had come with him again this time.  He had been cook on a man-of-war, and we knew him and all his people, most respectable colored people in Washington.  With him, and my own woman Harriot, I had the nucleus of a good household.  The mission Indians made good women-servants, as Mr. Fre&acute;mont had seen in the many California households with which he had been familiar, so we had never foreseen any trouble on this account.  In fact, I had grown up to such a fixed order of things in all domestic arrangements that ideas of this kind had never come to my mind.  But <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:I lost my Harriot in New York in the way I have told, and Saunders was in the mines.  Although a free man himself, his wife and children were slaves, because of the law that children of a slave mother were also slaves.  He had now the opportunity of making quickly the money with which to buy their freedom.  He had been offered "the lot" for seventeen hundred dollars, and Mr. Fre&acute;mont equipped him and sent him off to our mines, on their first arrival at San Francisco, to gather this.  He really did not like to leave me, but we would not have allowed him to stay under such circumstances.</p><P>Up to a certain point everything seemed to be against us.  Then the tide turned, and it was indeed a flood of good fortune.  When we left home it was on the plan of a seven years' absence, amounting to exile; into an unkwon country, without mail communications; and upon the slow process of the increase of flocks and herds was based the possibility of a journey back to revisit my people.  The gold discoveries made rapid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:the advance in travel and mail facilities which would otherwise have been of gradual, slow growth.</p><P>General Taylor was at this time President.  His was a direct, brave, and single nature.  What he thought just and right he did, irrespective of usage or politics.  His brother, Colonel Taylor, had been upon the court-martial which made the decision upon which Mr. Fre&acute;mont refused the promotion given him, and resigned from the army.</p><P>Colonel Taylor was one of the four officers who said that the oldest officer in the army would have been puzzled how to act upon the question which Mr. Fre&acute;mont had been called upon by his superior officers to decide for them--the question of the relative rank between a commodore and a general.</p><P>Quite without my father's knowledge, the President offered to Mr. Fre&acute;mont a government employment of dignity, and one for which his past life had fitted him--the place of Commissioner for the United States to run the boundary line with Mexico under the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo.  This, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:President told my father, was intended to express his personal feeling in regard to that harsh finding of the military court.</p><P>As may be imagined, the arrival of the mail was <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
188.sgm: event to all.  This was among the things we learned by the first mail that reached us after my arrival.  Mr. Beale, a young naval officer, was sent out with special despatches from the government, and was also given this commission to bring to Mr. Fre&acute;mont.  We thought we had nothing more to ask of fate when we found that we too had our proportion in the great stream of wealth, which meant for us independence, and its first use the return home; but this unlooked-for and gracious act of justice crowned our content.</p><P>My father was especially touched by it.  Apart from personal gratification, he had been too long a leader in the triumphant and fierce Democratic party not to feel the full value of this unlooked-for giving of a high post outside of the President's party.  The commission sent in such a way had to be accepted for a time at least; but as it would have involved some years of stay out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:there, there was no hesitation about not holding it.  Our new independence was too complete and too sweet to be given up for any cause.  That long white envelope, with its official stamp in the corner, which brings such terror into officers' families, and sounds the note of separation to so many, was not again to come to us; henceforth we were to direct our own movements.  That was what <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
188.sgm: proposed.</p><P>Mr. Beale was from Washington, and a young favorite of my father's.  He, too, had had his part in the early California conquest.  For the few months he remained on that coast he made part of our little household.  With a friendly captain (also from Washington), and really no service to be done, as his ship lay at anchor in the bay, renewed leaves of absence were very easy to get.</p><P>All our plans had been made before the discovery of gold.  We had expected to live the usual life of people going to a new country, and had sent round all manner of useful things, from a circular saw to a travelling carriage.  All these, except the latter, were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:stored in the company's warerooms in San Francisco.</p><P>While the fine weather lasted I travelled wherever wheels could go, and lived night and day in this carriage.  Mr. Aspinwall had it built under his own directions in New Jersey, and a sliding bottom to the seats and double cushions made an excellent sleeping-place.  We had this and double and single harness in quantity, but no horses, no one to drive, and no made roads to drive upon; we just followed bridle-paths among the trees, and where the ground was very sloping the Indian men put their " <HI REND="italics">riatas</HI>
188.sgm: " around the carriage, keeping it up until we came to level ground again.  Mine was the first carriage that had ever been in the country, and horses had not been used in harness there.  Low-hung wagons with solid wooden wheels, drawn by oxen, made the transportation for ladies who wished to go by wheel-- <HI REND="italics">carretas</HI>
188.sgm:, they called them.  Our experiences in gathering a team were unusual and rather trying to a woman's nerves; an Oregon mare, warranted gentle, was harnessed in with a rather <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:old California riding-horse, which was supposed to be tamed by time and work.  Mr. Beale, who had in him the traditions of his boyhood in Maryland, and the remembrance of reins handled there, felt sure that he could drill these into an efficient pair of carriage-horses: he was very strong, and he had that confidence in himself which belongs under twenty-five.  I wonder now, when I remember, that I got into that carriage with those horses.  The Oregon mare rose straight on her hind-legs, while the California horse, slower to understand, stood quiet for a little, and then commenced the favorite local habit of "bucking."  And this they kept to, getting frightened and obstinate.  I too was frightened, and begged for mules, which we tried.  There were only pack-mules, and these considered harness as an unpleasant pack, and tried to rub it off against every object--trees and whatever offered them a surface to rub against.  I do not know what we should have done, but we came upon a camp of Texans who had just arrived, and were a short distance out of Monterey; they had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:with them a number of fine-looking mules, which Mr. Fre&acute;mont found had been used in wagons, and he tried, at first quite in vain, to buy some of these for me.  They were men of means, "liked their animals, and had no reason to part with them."  I caught the name of one of the party as they spoke to each other, and told Mr. Fre&acute;mont to ask him if his mother was not from North Carolina, and if her name was not Caroline; the young man came up to the side of my carriage, very much astonished, and we found he was the grandson of old friends of my father's; so I had again, through friendship, what money alone could not have bought me--a comfortable pair of harness mules.  They were mismatched in size; the larger was white, slow, and a very patient creature; we named him Job; while his companion, which was small enough to deserve the name of Picayune, was a brisk little animal that made up in work and nerve force for lack of size.</p><P>Mr. Fre&acute;mont had with him two of the better class of Mission Indians, who had been with him for years, coming and going <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:between the United States and California.  These men, Juan and Gregorio, were the most graceful horsemen I have ever seen, even in their country of graceful horsemen.  When we came to a good bit of open country, and could go at speed, they would fasten to the carriage the long <HI REND="italics">riatas</HI>
188.sgm:, which were always carried at the saddle-bow, and in this way I would have two postilions riding abreast in front of my mules.  The men wore the old picturesque California dress, and their regular rythmed movement as they moved gracefully with their horses made it a picture I always loved to watch.  How I enjoyed that out-door life!  In this way we went from Monterey to San Francisco and back again from San Francisco to Monterey, stopping at different ranchos and farms to see and be seen by the people who wished Mr. Fre&acute;mont to bring me to them.  We would turn out of our way to accept the invitation of some of the old Californians to visit them at their ranchos.  At one of these we came to where the whole family connection had assembled to meet me.  Families of fourteen, eighteen, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:even to twenty, children were not uncommon.  And one Madame Castro had twenty-six children, nearly all sons.  At this rancho, which belonged to one of the many Castros, they had collected in force, the married members coming in also, while the grandmother was the one to bid me welcome.  There was nothing about these homes or people to remind us that we were in a new country, nor was anything lacking to comfort and well-being.  The buildings were spacious and beautifully clean, while the physical advantages of the people were beyond doubt.  The old lady, though herself past eighty, was like the portraits of Catherine of Russia.  Her thick snow-white hair was turned back in a natural cushion upon her head, while her bright eyes, fine teeth, and clear color belonged to youth.</p><P>It was very agreeable to me to make these visits.  They had learned that my father understood and protected the new citizens of the United States in Louisiana and Florida, and that they could rely upon him as a friend at the seat of government; and already there was sufficient evidence that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:Americans who were coming in were to be the source of great trouble to them.  They would also tell me of their gratitude to Mr. Fre&acute;mont--"Don Flemon," as they called him--for having protected them from all rudeness or unneccessary loss of any kind during the progress of his battalion through the state when it passed from their ownership to ours.  Our own war has taught us there was a difference in commanding officers in that respect.</p><P>As Mr. Fre&acute;mont neared California he met a large party of Sonorians, some twelve hundred, including women and children, who were going up into California to the mines; from these he first knew of the discoveries of gold.  The American crowds pouring in looked very unfavorably upon these as Mexicans, and resented any nation but ours having the good of the gold.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont joined his little party to theirs to protect them from this feeling, and arranged with them to work upon his lands at the Mariposas, from which they could not be driven off, as it was private property: he knew the gold must be found there as well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:as farther north in the same mountain range.  The Sonorians were accustomed to mining-work, particularly gold-washings, and he arranged that they should work for him, giving the lands and the protection, and they giving him half the results.   Already we had had the astonishment and pleasure of receiving buckskin bags filled with gold-dust and lumps of gold as an instalment on this arrangement.  I remember the first came to us at San Jose&acute; where we had stopped over.  Our means and our surroundings were in sharp contrast.  It was good fortune to get even one room in a house, and I had one room <HI REND="italics">pour tout partage</HI>
188.sgm:, but I had learned by this time that it was great good luck to have a whole room.  One bedstead and one table made the furniture, each the simplest and crudest construction of rough wood; the bed was at least clean, as it was fresh straw sewed up in clean cotton cloth.  I had my large grass hammock, which not only made a sleeping-place at night, but in the morning it was triced up higher, while Mr. Fre&acute;mont and our midshipman coachman, with their high <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:boots drawn outside of their trousers, deluged the room with hot water to put an end to that day's supply of fleas.</p><P>Our food, such as it was, was supplied by a man who kept a restaurant in the town, and who, having once been cook on a whaler, considered himself equal to any occasion.</p><P>We were at this place when our first convoy of gold reached us.  The buckskin bags, containing about a hundred pounds of gold, were put for safety under the straw mattress.  There were no banks nor places of deposit of any kind.  You had to trust some man that you knew, or keep guard yourself.  We sent this back to Monterey, and it accumulated in trunks in our rooms there.</p><P>When those Sonora people wanted to go back to their country, at the end of some months, they sent one of their number to say to Mr. Fre&acute;mont that they were going, and that their share came to a certain amount.  We were in San Francisco then, and it was not convenient for Mr. Fre&acute;mont to go back to Monterey, so he sent them the keys of our rooms and of the trunks, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:leaving it to them to make the division.  This they did with scrupulous honor, not taking an ounce more than their stipulated portion.</p><P>Sydney Smith tells of a merchant who bought a lottery ticket for himself and one for a friend, and, marking on them their names, put them by in a drawer without further thought.  Some time after, he saw that one of these numbers had drawn a great prize, and going to look, found that it was his friend's ticket, and turned over to his friend the prize.</p><P>Sydney Smith said he never thought of this without feeling an emotion of gratitude and pride that such an act could be done.  I think that our Sonorians take rank with the London merchant.</p><P>We were in the most delightful season of the year; no rains, no heavy dews; the wild oats were ripe, and gave the soft look of ripe wheat-fields to all the hill-sides; the wild cattle were feeding about or resting under the evergreen oaks, which looked so like orchard trees that one was disappointed not to find the apples on the ground <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:beneath them; the sky was a deep blue, without a cloud.  We were young and full of health, and in all the exhilaration of sudden wealth which could enable us to realize our greatest wishes.  The continued life in the open air night and day in this balmy climate completely healed my lungs.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont knew the country thoroughly well, and we made our camp each evening at some place where he was sure of good water, as well as trees and a good view.  I am very sorry that in the burning of my father's house all my letters home at this time were lost with everything else: one cannot give afterwards the freshness of impression that belongs with the actual day's experience.  But I was charmed with every detail of my camping-life.  To be sure, it was in an unusual form, with most unusual people, in a most unusual country and climate.</p><P>Knight, one of Mr. Fre&acute;mont's old guides--a man almost the equal of Carson in fine qualities--came down from his ranch to see him again, and we took to each other so kindly that it was nearly two months before <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:he left us.  Like Captain Tucker, he had thought I would prove "a fine lady," and unable to live in an unusual way; but he too gave me his hearty approval.</p><P>These, with myself and my little girl, made the party.  We had two Indian men, Juan and Gregorio, who knew exactly what to do, as they had crossed and recrossed the continent with Mr. Fre&acute;mont.  They were Indians, but they were men, and the presence of a lady in the camp kept them all the time in their best clothes and best behavior.  The old California dress was very like that that we know in Spanish pictures, and made them look like figures out of the scene of an opera.  They rode well ahead, following Mr. Fre&acute;mont; then came the carriage, all its curtains rolled up, freighted with youth and health and happiness and hopefulness; after us, at a little distance, was our baggage train--a string of mules packed with our cooking apparatus, our grass hammocks, and such clothes as we could pack in those square leather panniers which the Spaniards call <HI REND="italics">alforjas</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>Mr. Fre&acute;mont and Mr. Knight--"Old Knight" every one called him--rode ahead, looking out the best road for the carriage, or going back to ride beside it.  We used to make a very early start.  My early cup of tea was brought to the carriage to me at dawn.  We always camped by the side of a brook, and a dressing-tent was quickly made for me with a pair of blankets; I had a tin basin, plenty of towels, plenty of French soap and Cologne-water, and running water in plenty.  Diana never had such advantages.  We were usually on our way as the sun rose, and we travelled along, very often at a good gait, until eleven, when we always stopped for the long noon halt.  Then was our breakfast, and this we made exceedingly good, notwithstanding the scarcity of fresh provisions in the country.  "An army travels on its stomach."  Many years of camping experience taught our chief how to provide for this.  From the ranches we passed near would be procured half a sheep and green corn, some of the large Spanish onions, and such vegetables as could be had, and always an abundance of sweet red <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:pepper; of these the <HI REND="italics">guisada</HI>
188.sgm: of the country would be made, which answers to the <HI REND="italics">pot au feu</HI>
188.sgm: of the French, only more warmly flavored with this pepper.  The grass hammocks would be spread out on the ground, on them the morocco carriage cushions piled into a good seat for me.  My share of the duty was to take the result of all the others' preparations--to eat with all the appetite I could gather, to grow well, and be happy.  After some hours of rest we would go on, stopping before sundown to make our camp for the night.  This was always well chosen in advance.</p><P>Here the carriage made an admirable sleeping-place for myself and my little girl, while the gentlemen stretched their hammocks to the trees, and the supper was a duplicate of the breakfast.  They had excellent claret and coffee and tea, and the best French sweet things for the little one.  The camp-fire lit up the whole scene with a beauty that only those who have seen it can realize.  What talks we had around those camp-fires!  Knight was a mighty hunter, and Mr. Beale, midshipman as he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:was, had the same vocation.  Each of the three had had large experience of a kind only known to me through books: from Indians, from wild animals, and from war; while I gave the element of society.  About nine o'clock all would be still; only the sounds of the logs and boughs as they crackled and burned, and the steady munching of the animals over their feed, with occasionally a disturbance from a coyote that would come and try to steal his supper; but a coyote is only a little wolf at best, and though they would stay off at a little distance and howl and bark, yet the noise was only laughable, not like that strange howl of the wolf of the prairies: and how changed the circumstances!</p><P>I was left at San Jose&acute; for a week at one time, as it was found that each visit to San Francisco renewed the irritation of the lungs.  It was here I saw something of the local life of the people.  Before we brought taxes and litigation upon them, the Californians were a wholesome and cheerful people, going about their pleasures not sadly, as is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:the inherited wont of our nation, but making a joyful noise.</p><P>I found in their folk-music a connecting link between themselves and the Panama street people; in the swift yet plaintive airs so characteristic, which the Spaniards kept, together with many other things belonging to the Moors--irrigation, for example, which they did not originate, but for which they get credit.</p><P>The voices of the Panama street people had a slow, almost melodious, accent that was very agreeable.  They used to collect on the square in the nights and sing, accompanied by a sort of tambourine, which kept up a low drumming rhythmed movement.  One air and some of its words I heard so frequently that they fixed themselves in my memory as part of Panama, evidently of Moorish origin, coming through Spanish channels across to this people.  In the <HI REND="italics">Traviata</HI>
188.sgm: Verdi has introduced a Spanish folk-song, which is the polished twin of my Panama street song.  I only know the words of one verse, for I could get no one to give me the rest, the servants saying that it was not for a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:lady to know the words.<ANCHOR ID="n1-5">*</ANCHOR>
188.sgm: (Evidently there was no <HI REND="italics">ope&acute;ra bouffe</HI>
188.sgm: there to educate that public.)  It is a minor key, and its abrupt turns and vague unterminated effects are eminently Oriental.</p><P><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-5"><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A&acute; los frailes no me quiere confesar,<LB>Porque se enojan que me guste bailar,<LB>Bailar!<LB>Bailar!<LB>Con Francico, mi Francico,<LB>Francico Cuman&tilde;a."</HI>
188.sgm:<LB><HSEP>Even the educated people in South America countries drop much of the Castilian nicety of pronunciation, giving the hard sound to the <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
188.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">c</HI>
188.sgm:, which so altered the language to me that I had almost to acquire another in order to feel at home with the Spaniards I met there.  In addition to that, the illiterate people drop and misplace the <HI REND="italics">s</HI>
188.sgm: exactly as a London cockney does the <HI REND="italics">h</HI>
188.sgm:; for example, the first line of this verse, "A&acute; los frailes no me quiere confesar," they give, "A&acute; lo fraile no me quiere confear."  This was evidently their favorite song, to which their strongest expression of excitement fitted itself.<LB><HSEP>The night the two steamers got in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:together, not only the Americans flocked to the ramparts, but the whole Indian population were out in the bright moonlight, and the sound of the deep rub-a-dub-dub and that constantly recurring chorus of "Cuman&tilde;a!" Cuman&tilde;a!" filled the air until sunrise.<LB><HSEP>Another of these Moro-Spanish airs, not so vivacious or clean in its outlines, had grafted itself among the Californians, and had, as all gypsy music has, the governing qualities of swiftness and sadness combined.  This last I could not choose but learn: I heard it whistled, sung, played upon guitars and violins, wherever Californians were.<LB><HSEP>During this time I was in San Jose&acute; I saw in perfection the good riding of the country.  From my hammock, swung under the open gallery of the house where we were fortunate enough to have a room, I heard and saw the festivities of a California wedding.  These lasted three days.  It was a wedding among the vaqueros, and attended, therefore, by good riders.  The bride's house was not much of a building, but extensive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:temporary shelter had been put up for dancing-rooms, covered over with green boughs--a <HI REND="italics">ramada</HI>
188.sgm:.  But the point of rivalry among the guests was more in riding than in dancing, though after riding all day they would dance all night; and all day and all night that one air was repeated by violins, guitars, and voices, until the drone of it got into the air, and made as much part of it as does the whir of locusts in the autumn months.  The first day the procession started for the church where the marriage was to take place--to go down and along the Alameda, a beautiful double avenue of willows, three miles in length, planted by the early fathers.  The first day was to go to the church for the marriage ceremonies; the second, to take out the bride for a general <HI REND="italics">pasear</HI>
188.sgm: through the town; and the third, a series of contests and rivalries in feats of horsemanship.  There were about five hundred horses; the riders were more.  In many cases they had with them a woman mounted on the horse; the woman sat on the man's saddle, while behind her, with his arm around her waist, and holding the reins, sat the man--just <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:the reverse of our country habit.  They advanced in regular order, eight abreast, the musicians, also on horseback, playing their violins and guitars as calmly as though they had a floor under them.  The bride sat alone on her horse, under an arch of flowers and ribbons, which was carried by a groomsman on either side, the ends of the arch resting on their saddles, and on either side of them her bride-maids; the bridegroom, on an exceptionally fine horse, surrounded by his friends; and then the rest of the company, most of the men riding singly, but many riding as I have described, with a girl on the saddle--a bright glittering mass of ribbons, flowers, bright beads, gold-lace; the women in satin dresses and slippers, the men in the dress of the time in California, which is exactly that we see in Spanish pictures--short velvet jackets covered with braid and gold embroidery, the velvet trousers open over full white drawers, while a string of bells down the seam jingled even more than do the bangles of ladies in church.<LB><HSEP>The starting-point was almost facing my place of observation.  They would form in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:great order and quiet, the horses knowing the order of the proceedings evidently as well as their masters, and the signal for starting was the exploding of fire-crackers by the hundred boxes under the feet of the horses.  What with the sparks and noise, it looked as if the whole thing had gone up like the close of a pantomime.<LB><HSEP>It was a point of honor to show which horse behaved best under these circumstances.  The horses were trained in the way that has always been favorite with Spanish people, to make any number of dancing movements in imitation of progress, while in reality they do not go forward at all.  I think they are trained to this by having weights tied to their legs.<LB><HSEP>Each one was a perfect horseman.  Each man did not simply ride his horse, but was in the habit of living with it and upon it, and was consequently in perfect <HI REND="italics">rapport</HI>
188.sgm:.  Each one of these put in force every art known to him exhibit the spirit and the beauties of his horse.  As they passed down the one street of the town the correct thing was for people from the side to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:advance and throw fire-crackers in mass under the horses' feet; the firing of pistols was of course; no end of little shrill screams, laughter, voices in every varying intonation, couplets sung to the air which was being played, and taken up with shouts of laughter; the chorus by every one who took the local allusions.  With all this the musicians played with as much steadiness and animation as though seated on a platform instead of the saddle.<LB><HSEP>The third day I feel myself incompetent to describe.  They had their field-sports for that day on the large open green just by my perch in the hammock.  And here the evolutions in a small space--the rush with which they would go, as though shot from a bow, across the plain; the bringing-up all standing, without any slacking of the speed, leaving them motionless as an English Horse-guard on duty; the continuous whirls in a small circle, winding nearer and nearer in towards the central point, until it seemed as though man and horse must fall from sheer dizziness; the mounting of a vicious, screaming young horse, which would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:spring like a cat into the air, with all its legs stiffened out and its back bowed, making one jump this way, another that, until it would seem as though everything would dislocate in its rider--were a part of the exhibition which perfectly fascinated me.<LB><HSEP>We travelled about in this delightful manner, putting into San Francisco for news, or San Jose&acute; for soft weather.  We made one halt at San Jose&acute; to get our clothes washed.  We thought this could be done there because there were a number of emigrant families; but they were rolling in their own money, and none of ours was a temptation to them.  Juan and Gregorio undertook to find some Mission Indians who could do it for us.  When these women brought the things back, they came in a body as a family, the relations and men of the family lounging in the rear and looking on; they were evidently proud of the work, and wanted to see the impression it should make.  It made a decided impression on me.  Their only method of washing was to put the clothes in a brook and pound them between flat stones, using as soap a native <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:bulb called <HI REND="italics">amole</HI>
188.sgm:.  Everything looked very white and smelled fresh, but they had been merely washed and dried; there was no starching, no ironing, and a very distorted-looking lot of garments they were.  I made the women my compliments, seeing that was expected, and asked when the linen would be ironed, and found that ironing was neither known nor would it be attempted.  "Everything was clean," that was enough in their ideas; nor could any bribe or persuasion make any difference.  They accepted their fee and went off gravely, with the usual "Dios te le paga, sen&tilde;ora" (God will repay you, madam).  Rough-dried <HI REND="italics">lingerie</HI>
188.sgm: is not comfortable, nor is it pretty.  We looked so crumpled and askew that we could not forget the subject, and it was with delight that we accepted the offer of a negro woman to wash and iron for us; but when with this was coupled the obligation to buy her, we gave her up.  It required no thinking or effort to make this decision: it was simply following out the habit of mind which came from my education and the example shown me at home.  All the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:necessary thinking and deciding had been done a generation before, when my mother gave freedom to her slaves because of her conscientious feeling on the subject.  I have always thought it one of the most unusual of the many unusual high qualities in my father, that while he did not share these ideas from the same religious and logical thoughts that made them obligatory on my mother, he yet made it thoroughly easy for her to carry out her feelings.  My father himself had refused two large inheritances because he would have had to take the slaves with the lands.  It was not an open question, but one that had been settled, and I merely followed in the home ideas and example; and it was not merely as a domestic, but a political question that I had often heard it gone over.  The more intimate friends, John Randolph, Chief-Justice Marshall, and many Virginia gentlemen of great estates, were united in their intention to bring slavery to an end.  Some, as the Fairfax family and my mother, put this intention into force, and not only gave freedom to their inherited slaves, but maintained <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:them and their children until they were self-supporting, sending others to Liberia and maintaining correspondence with them.<LB><HSEP>I go into this laundry incident a little fully because, simple as it seemed, it soon after became of political importance.  The Convention had met at Monterey to settle the Constitution of the state, and the question whether slavery should or should not be admitted was, as every one remembers, the exciting feature.  With slave labor there would be no delay in opening up the mineral wealth of the country, and to the fabulous profits of the owners.  Slave-holders and speculators in slaves only waited the decision to bring them overland in great droves.  Paid labor must necessarily be scanty in numbers, very expensive, and equally unreliable.  There was also the consideration, which is strong when you are made to feel it, that it would put an end to the great discomfort of being without a class to attend to the daily necessities of life.  The want of proper food, proper clothing, were the sources of ill-health as well as discomfort, and there seemed no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:way to get at a class to attend to this where no one would work for wages, for they could be too independent in other ways.  Of course, with time, this would be righted, but to people suddenly possessed of great wealth the impatience to enjoy it without care is equally great.  These were a troublesome class in the Convention.  To these might be added nearly every woman in the country, who lifted up her voice and wept over her discomforts.  The government patronage was on the side of slavery.<LB><HSEP>Every one knows the important part of a good dinner in diplomacy.  The great Napoleon knew and acted on this.  The very badly prepared food with which the members of the Convention had to be content during their work made them ready to cry out for cooks at the price of any principle.  Here it was my good fortune to be of service, and come in aid to the serious work being done by men opposed to slavery.  Our rooms in the Castro house were very pretty, with their French and Chinese fittings.  My army and navy allies helped me to keep them orderly; and although I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:had then only the two Indian men, we managed to be very comfortable.  We had the grand wood fires; everybody sent me birds and squirrels of their shooting, and these are never so good as when broiled on the coals.  Each of our travellers was capable of directing, and the men of making, the Spanish <HI REND="italics">pot au feu</HI>
188.sgm: "guisada."  We had every good thing in fruits, vegetables, and sweets that France puts up for transportation, and all served on beautiful Chinese and French china and glass (I had to get used to Juan and Gregorio breaking a great deal of this).<LB><HSEP>Old Knight, who believed in me, brought in his friends to be convinced from myself, by talking with me, that I really did not want slaves, and would never own them.  Our house and table were open, after the hospitable fashion of a new country, to all who had been, or would like to be, friends, and they saw for themselves that it was quite possible for the most cheerful hospitality to exist without the usual working forces.  Here, again, I got credit for what was no effort.  I was not let to do anything that would fatigue me.  Ideas and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:decorative touches I was allowed to give--draperies and "effects" were my department--and the two Indian men had perfect good-will and eagerness to serve me in every way.  I should have liked my clothes ironed, otherwise I felt the need of nothing.  In short, my pretty rooms were the headquarters of the antislavery party, and myself the example of happiness and hospitality without servants.  I did not mind about the housekeeping, for all that would right itself, and I was really let to have no cares and no fatigues.<LB><HSEP>But we did think and consult over this question of slave labor because of a far greater which it involved.  Our property was chiefly in mines, by this time proved to be of the richest quality.  The difficulties of working them by paid labor or bodies of men working on shares had been experienced and were fully understood.  Only a slight portion of the gold taken out could be counted on as ours in this way of working them.  We could not often hope for such honor as our Sonorians had shown.  With slaves in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:mines, as our Southern friends constantly urged upon us, we would have certain and immediate wealth by millions.  We had just come through the ordeal of want of income.  It had involved separation from each other, from home, exposure to many forms of danger to health and life.  This <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
188.sgm: a subject for serious consideration.<LB><HSEP>Our decision was made on the side of free labor.  It was not only the question of injustice to the blacks, but of justice to the white men crowding into the country.  Here was a field where labor was amply repaid, where man's energy, his physical as well as mental strength, could bring him a great return.  We were in the rebound from our own plan of patient waiting and slow gains to all the immediate happiness and power given by the new order of things.  Slave labor would shut off this happiness from those who had only their labor to depend upon.  It would have been a very poor return for the good fortune that had come to us if we had taken part in shutting it out from these.<LB><HSEP>I was going over this with an English <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:officer whom I knew very well when I was at Nassau; it came up in connection with our talks over the war.  He was thoroughly English, thoroughly antislavery; but when I finished, he sprang up and walked about the room, exclaiming, "He ought not to have done so!  He ought to have let the blacks wait another thirty years; they were used to it!"  With Mr. Fre&acute;mont it was the abstract idea of justice and equal rights, but with me only the following a habit of mind in which I had been nurtured.  I think I may claim--as I have said to our Northern friends--to belong to the "aristocracy of emancipation," for with my people it has always entailed voluntary sacrifices--moneyed, political, and social; not as with most emancipationists at the North, where it was a local strength and advantage.<LB><HSEP>We went into San Francisco shortly before the rainy season--about three months after I had first seen it.  Already it was changed out of recognition by the crowds of people added, and the buildings which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:had gone up.  Houses were rapidly going up for the winter; night and day and Sundays the sounds of hammers never ceased.  Ready-made houses were to be had, and some very pretty little ones from China.  One of these was bought and put up for me on a lot we had in what was then called Happy Valley, next to where is now the Palace Hotel.  It was put up without nails, except the shingling on the roof, all the rest fitting in together like a puzzle, and was of pretty smooth wood, making a very good temporary lodging.  Forty-eight hours at the chief hotel had convinced us that it was neither a pleasant nor safe place for a lady.  The partitions between the rooms were only of thin cotton cloth stretched on a light frame, yet thirty-six thousand a year was given as rent for this building.<LB><HSEP>Our little house had but two rooms, but they were large and clean, and we had what were luxuries--a wood fire burning in front of the cottage, and clean food well cooked.  We did not attempt furniture, for we were only going to stay ten days.  Two bundles of unused shingles made a very good table, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:while I was absolutely clear of unpleasant sights and sounds inevitable from such a crowd as there was in the town.  A friend thought this was too rough for me, and much to my regret made us exchange it for a house he had recently built and furnished in the usual expensive, commonplace way.<LB><HSEP>Now my open fire was a luxury counter-balancing carpets, curtains, and finery, and our men, who knew exactly how to roast meat on sticks before the wood coals, or between hot stones, and in hot wood ashes, and who were at home in making guisada--swinging in its kettle from a tripod of green sticks in true gypsy style--were lost when confronted with a cooking-stove.  There was a great slamming and banging of the iron doors, and many a " <HI REND="italics">caramba</HI>
188.sgm:!"  So we fell back on supplies from a French restaurant.  We were all pleased when the word was given for another start.  The drive back from San Francisco to Monterey in the loveliest October weather, through a country now so familiar to San Francisco people as the San Matteo Road, was the last of our charming out-door life.  After the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:rains began I had to remain at Monterey; not only the rainy season, but the approaching elections, interfered with our ownership of our time.  We lingered over this part of our travelling, knowing it was to be the last, for the political duties claimed now the first place.  <HI REND="italics">Rien n'arrive que Vimpre&acute;vu</HI>
188.sgm:.  We had planned to stay in California about seven years, the world forgetting, by the world forgot, our first object to live our lives in independence, and with the animating motive and object, to me, that in about seven years I should return to my people.  The "unforeseen" in this case was the discovery of gold.  That delightful factor changed our calculations, abolished all our plans, and substituted a power to live where we pleased and do as we pleased, when close upon this came another unforeseen force which made it impossible to put our own will and pleasure first.<LB><HSEP>What we had done in Monterey when the State Constitution was being framed there had enrolled us on the antislavery side.  It would have been deserting not to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:go through with the work.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont could have been either Governor or first Senator from the state.  As Governor he could have overlooked his private interests to the greatest advantage--in certain ways have been of most use to the state; but, on the other hand, as Senator he could defend the interests of the state in Congress.  To me the overruling consideration was that what I so much wished myself would be rendered obligatory, and that we should have to return to Washington, and our old home life be restored.<LB><HSEP>It was foreseen that the antislavery clause would be opposed, and need a positive defender, but no one foresaw the prolonged opposition and bitterness of the contest which did follow, Mr. Calhoun leading the opposition.<LB><HSEP>The first Legislature met in San Jose&acute;, but I was taken back to Monterey because of my comfortable rooms there; they and the climate there would keep the good health I had gained.  Some rain had already fallen, and the creeks were up on the broad plains, so broad that there would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:scarcely an undulation in twenty miles, but occasionally seamed by a creek-bed or "gulch."  Even in the dry season these dry creek-beds and gulches had been a trial to nerves only accustomed to regular roads.  The last camp we made was on the Salinas River, after crossing the Salinas plain.  There was not much timber here, and we had only a thicket of tall brush for shelter.  The carriage was well closed with its strong leather curtains, and made an admirable shelter; but they were wise in leaving me in Monterey, for camping in wet weather is very different from the summer travel we had had, and this was not yet heavy weather, only the gathering for rain.  But it had its own picturesque elements, and I remember giving them that night the substance of George Sand's <HI REND="italics">Mare au Diable</HI>
188.sgm:, of which the place reminded me.<LB><HSEP>Even the little rain that had fallen during the night had so swollen the Salinas River that it was found I could not cross it in the carriage.  The animals and the pole were taken out, the harness and cushions securely lashed on the roof, and strong ropes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:passed around the carriage to lower it properly into the stream.  Other strong ropes were attached to it, together with the men's lariats; the men themselves, swimming their horses across, took their places on the opposite bank, which was nearly upright, ready at the word given to start the horses off.  The carriage lowered, off galloped the horsemen, shouting and cheering their horses, and so the equipage was whipped through the stream and up the bank.<LB><HSEP>So few horses swim level that I was not put upon one to cross.  Our midshipman took soundings by walking across the river at a point that promised something of a ford, and found the water nowhere above his waist.  Fortunately I weighed but little then, and Mr. Beale carried me across on his outstretched arms; and we accomplished our object of outriding the storm, and were safe in the comfortable rooms at Monterey before night, housed, dry, warm, and well-fed--the four luxuries of travellers.  Our Englishwoman was a most efficient housekeeper: we had sent an Indian ahead, and she had had some hours to prepare.  We <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:found everything thoroughly warm; a great wood fire; dry clothes laid out for each one; the round table, with its gleaming damask and glass and china and delightful good food, ready for us.  We thought this the best camp we had made yet.  After a little rest I was left alone here; politics and business belonged in the busy American towns to the north.<LB><HSEP>The rains set in furiously, and I was completely house-bound; but I could see the bay, and even through the closed windows I could hear the delightful boom of the long rollers falling regularly and heavily on the beach.  Near by I had my wood fire, and plenty of reading, such as it was: a collection of the <HI REND="italics">Merchant's Magazine</HI>
188.sgm:, five bound volumes of the London <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
188.sgm:, including the period of the Spanish marriages and the political history of Europe for as many years, and an "unabridged Byron"--the whole library of a great flour merchant, who said he "had no time to read himself, but thought I might find some of those interesting."  The <HI REND="italics">Merchant's Magazine</HI>
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188.sgm:and gained a great deal of knowledge that has since fitted itself into more than one ocassion of my life.  Also, I had the first solid experience in the more usual feminine pursuit of sewing.  A large part of my wardrobe had been left in San Francisco at the company's warehouse--all the heavier things that had been needed in leaving New York and would be required again for the return voyage; in one of the many fires this warehouse went, and while my loss was comparatively small, it was important to me, for it obliged me to make up some warm dresses.  That I had never made a dress did not trouble me; I had done so many things that I had never done before that a new sense of power had come to me, and I had no hesitation in undertaking that.  But the only stuffs to be had were Chinese satins and the harshest English merinoes.  I got these in the darkest colors that could be found, and ripping up a faithful old black silk, made a <HI REND="italics">fac-simile</HI>
188.sgm: of it in the new stuffs.  We knew an old lady at home who never shaped the stockings she knit, but knit straight in one size to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:heel, saying it was a badly shaped leg that could not shape a stocking: I think my dresses were somewhat on this plan.  But I was in the happy age when figure graced the dress, and queer as they must have been, they looked very well when once on.  And I gained another warm gown by cutting off the extra length of my riding-habit.  But even with reading and sewing and writing, the time would have been too still, if there had not been some human voice to break it.  The heavy rains made getting about impossible, and I had practically no carriage, as there was now no one to drive me.  Mrs. M'Evoy, my cook and prime-minister, had lived in Australia with the wife of the Chief-Justice; it interested me very much to have her tell in detail the domestic life of that new country.  She was an intelligent woman, who had been in a position to see a great deal, and when the evening closed in I made it a regular custom that she should bring in her own sewing, and her pretty, clean baby had its evening roll on the great grizzly bear skin that was stretched in front of the fire; my own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:little girl played herself into early sleeps.  The other wing of the house was occupied by Madame Castro herself, and her very nice little girls made charming playmates for mine.<LB><HSEP>Some years before, I had read in <HI REND="italics">Littell's Living Age</HI>
188.sgm: the account of a trial before Sir Joseph Forbes, the Chief-Justice with whose wife my woman had gone out to Australia.  The sentence of the judge reviewed the case, and dwelt especially upon one statement of the man who was being sentenced, and whose own chief view of his crimes seemed to be that they were so easy to commit that therefore they were matter of course.  We had talked this over at our dinner-table at home--"a table round" over which everything of interest was discussed.  Among us it was the family habit to keep for the diner-table subjects of interest, and equally forbidden ever to allow any disagreeable topic to come up; this was a law of my father's to which we had complied so long that the mind obeyed it unconsciously.<LB><HSEP>The man under sentence had committed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:eleven murders before being detected; there was no escape for him, and he confessed, and described the first murder.  He had a way-side stopping-place, and victims easily came in his way.  He said that this first man he meant to rob only; but he let him leave his house and get to a certain point on his journey, where he knew he would have to stop and water his horse.  He was there before him, in hiding, and as the man leaned over to get water for himself, he gave him a blow on the back of the neck; this quite killed him.  He made no movement, and was dead.  Then this murderer said he " <HI REND="italics">had not known before how easy it was to kill a man; he didn't think it was so little trouble</HI>
188.sgm:.  After that he always killed them when he found they had money with them."  But eleven such murders brought on the investigation which terminated his career.  Mrs. M'Evoy knew all about this case, and many incidents belonging to it and to the great excitement it created.<LB><HSEP>It is one of the odd things that come up in life that I should have found here a living link with what had been heretofore <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:only a matter of reading and family discussion.<LB><HSEP>The time was monotonous, and seemed long.  The <HI REND="italics">Merchant's Magazine</HI>
188.sgm: is instructive, but not exciting or amusing when one is young.  One evening of tremendous rain, when we were, as usual, around the fire, Mrs. M`Evoy, with her table and lights, sewing at one side, myself by the other, explaining pictures from the <HI REND="italics">Illustrated Times</HI>
188.sgm: to my little girl, while the baby rolled about on the bear-skin in front of the fire, suddenly Mr. Fre&acute;mont came in upon us, dripping wet, as well he might be, for he had come through from San Jose&acute;--seventy miles on horseback through the heavy rain.  He was so wet that we could hardly make him cross the pretty room; but "beautiful are the feet of him that beareth glad tidings," and the foot-marks were all welcome, for they pointed home.  He came to tell me that he had been elected Senator, and that it was necessary we should go to Washington on the steamer of the 1st of January.<LB><HSEP>At daylight the next morning he was off again, having to be back in San Jose&acute;.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:young sorrel horse, of which Mr. Fre&acute;mont was very fond, brought him down and carried him back this one hundred and forty miles within thirty-six hours, without fatigue to either.<LB><HSEP>The few intervening weeks went by quickly now, and we were all ready for the 1st.  Mrs. M`Evoy grieved to lose me, but Saunders was there, happy, with more than money enough to buy the freedom of his family and secure them a home also.<LB><HSEP>When we heard the steamer's gun, Newyear's night, the rain was pouring in torrents, and every street crossing was a living brook.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont carried me down, warmly wrapped up, to the wahrf, where we got into a little boat and rowed out.  I have found that it changes the climate and removes illness to have the ship's head turned the way you wish to go.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<HSEP>We had on board some of our fellow-passengers who had made the journey up with me in June, six months before--Dr. Gwin, who was elected the other Senator from the state, and Mr. Ward.  Our first stop was at Mazatlan.  At Chagres, at Panama, at San Francisco, the getting to and from the steamers was very unpleasant and even dangerous: queer boats with undisciplined boatmen, no wharves or steps; but at Mazatlan we found the solid stone pier with proper steps, such as the English are sure to build wherever they establish themselves.  An English man-of-war was at anchor, and learning that the newly elected Californian Senators were on the steamer she paid us the compliment of a salute of honor, and put the captain's gig at our service.  In place of the dangerous landing and heavy swell, as at the mouth of the Chagres, or being carried through the water on the back of an Indian over the reef, as at Panama, or in the same way up the mud bank, as at San Francisco--here the tide being so out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:that the boat could not quite reach the steps--the sailors jumped into the water and laid their oars in a compact bridge from the bow of the boat to the steps, standing on either side with their elbows out, making a living parapet to the improvised bridge.  I felt that we had already returned to civilization.  On the pier waited the barouche and fine horses belonging to the English consul-general.  His were orthodox harness horses, and I could enjoy my drive.  His house was interesting.  There were accumulations made during many years' residence of beautiful things, modern as well as old Mexican curiosities, and interesting things from both shores of the Pacific.  Even the well-served dinner and trained servants had their own charm, from my long absence from such things.  The house was of stone, and the walls many feet thick, making it delightfully cool.  We had felt the heat before reaching Mazatlan, and to do honor to Mr. Forbes (and also because I distrusted the effect of my Monterey gowns on ladies) I took off warmer clothing, and dressed myself in one of my best white gowns, in which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:I felt orthodox, as my English woman had put these and all my "frills" into lovely condition.<LB><HSEP>We met a norther in coming out of the Gulf of California, and had some days of great discomfort--waves breaking on deck, every one having to remain below under closed hatches.  Each of us had taken cold from the imprudent change of dress at Mazatlan.  Added to this was the bad air from the necessarily closed hatches.<LB><HSEP>As I am fortunate enough not to be subject to sea-sickness, I have the corresponding disadvantage of being awake to everything that goes amiss; in this case the consequence was an illness which took a form that put me in danger of dying.  Here again my usual good fortune showed itself.  There was a regular ship surgeon, for whom I could have no deference; but among the passengers was a really good physician--a navy surgeon who had made his studies in Paris.  Dr. Bowie had me immediately moved up to the captain's state-room on deck, where his skill, aided by the great physician, pure air, kept me alive.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<HSEP>There was no stewardess, and only one woman passenger; no ice.  Perfect quiet and freedom from all motion was the first requisite for me.  This was, of course, impossible; but, against all disadvantages, I lived on, although when we reached Panama I was too exhausted to make the land crossing.  There was only a monthly steamer at that time.  No one would tell me that I should have to miss this and stay in Panama over the next month; on the contrary, little sketches were made of ships' hammocks on stretchers, and all devices for getting me across without danger or fatigue were constantly talked over to me, and I believed that I should go straight through.  "English Tom"--a big quiet-faced old man-of-war's man--carried me down the gang-plank, and took me ashore without a rough motion.  I noticed that Saunders was not about, nor Mr. Fre&acute;mont, and asked for them; but my physician had taken the precaution to give me an opiate, and I slept for a long time, waking to find myself again under the hospitable roof of Madame Arce&acute;, who claimed me as hers.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<HSEP>Mr. Stephens (generally known as "Central America Stephens") was in Panama attending to the affairs of the future Panama Railway, of which he was vice-president.  We had known him well in Washington.  On learning that I was on board and so ill, he knew I would be unable to cross, and had at once told Madame Arce&acute;, who said that I belonged to her by right.  When I waked it was to find myself again on a sick-bed, with her kind face near me; but in the next room was another sick person, over whom the doctor was standing; and then I learned for the first time that Mr. Fre&acute;mont was perfectly crippled with rheumatic fever.  The thorough chilling he had received in Mazatlan had brought on rheumatic fever in the leg which had been frost-bitten the winter before.  This turned my mind from my own disappointment.<LB><HSEP>Our good friend and physician remained with us until the last moment in which he could connect with the steamer at Chagres, and would have remained the month if we had needed him.  It was hard every way to give him up, but we were where we could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:have very good care, medical and personal.<LB><HSEP>Madame Arce&acute; had moved into the house of a daughter who had recently died, and the views were quite different this time, looking across the garden of an adjoining convent to the open blue sea.  The early church buildings in Panama were in keeping with the wealth of the Spaniards and their need for repentance; but many were now roofless, and all except the cathedral itself in a state of decay.  The roof and spire of this great building were completely inlaid with mother-of-pearl shells, which gave out wonderful colors under sunlight, especially when sunshine followed rain, and they had the added beauty of water in the shells.  The convent buildings, which made the nearest foreground, were only the more picturesque from being in decay.  The bell tower, with its crumbling arched openings around the bell, through which showed the background of deepest blue sky, made a beautiful frame for the picture one saw when the bells had to be rung, especially at vespers, the time at which I saw it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:oftenest.  The machinery for ringing the bell was gone, and it was sounded by striking it with stones.  The laughing young Indian girls who went up to do this wore the usual fluttering loose ruffled garments of Panama, and they were near enough for us to see the glitter of their eyes and teeth as they were pounding away at the bell in their unorthodox and unmusical fashion.<LB><HSEP>This was a picture of which I never got tired, and it grew to be a mixture of reading and realities which, when the fever was on me, would take shape; the "unabridged Byron" which had been lent me at Monterey had given me the story of Parisina, and the execution of Hugo framed itself in this convent tower.<LB><HSEP>In California we were well off when we had one room, and luxurious with two.  Here Madame Arce&acute; had given us the largest and coolest rooms in her house, and my cot was placed in the large ballroom, which opened from the bedroom where Mr. Fre&acute;mont lay.  In that warm climate very little furniture is used.  This ballroom was eighty feet long, and high and wide in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:proportion, and the chairs and sofas were set in compact rows around the room.  The floor was of dark polished wood, and the walls and ceiling painted darkish blue, to which the furniture corresponded.  There was one sofa, or rather a sofa-divan, on which I lay in the day, while a linen cot, with one sheet under and one sheet above, made all that was necessary for the night.  There were no glass windows; great doors, like barn doors, slid back and left huge openings which let in the view, and, from the height we were above the ground, I was in the neighborhood of the bell in its tower, and of the tops of the thicket of young cocoanut-trees, which kept waving and fanning to and fro between me and the waters of the bay.  Stephens was the first to notice the effect of these trees upon me, seeing my eyes follow their balancing movements from side to side.  He came everyday, and often during the day, to be with us; sometimes putting his chair where he could command both of our positions, saying, in his cheerful way, "I have come to take my chill with you," and proceeding to shake <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:with those violent chills which he had contracted there, and which not long after killed him.<LB><HSEP>I astonished them one day declaiming the execution of Hugo, which had gradually come out from its place in my memory, and embodied itself with the vesper ringing of this bell and the general sunset and tropical effect of the whole view before me:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The convent bells are ringing,<LB>But mournfully and slow;<LB>In the gray square turret swinging,<LB>With a deep sound, to and fro.<LB>Heavily to the heart they go!<LB>Hark! the hymn is singing--<LB>The song for the dead below,<LB>Or the living who shortly shall be so!"</HI>
188.sgm:</p><P>My illness had taken the form of intermittent fever, as most things do in the ague climates, and regularly as the fever hour came, Hugo came up with it.</p><P>Although not well enough to sit up, we saw very pleasant people, among them the Governor of New Granada, and the officers of one of our men-of-war, while the old servants Narcissa and my former favorite, Candelaria, dosed and petted us and brought <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:us nice things, as though we were babies that had to be brought back to life by unremitting care.</p><P>Every day the kind nuns from the convent sent me over some delicate preparation of fruits.  A smiling Indian girl, with soft drawling accent, would give the little message with it, which was always to the same effect, "that they prayed I might not die so far from my own country."  It was some delicate preparation of preserved fruit, and the pretty china plate on which it was sent was always surrounded by blossoms of some white flower, orange or jasmine; from these they would take away every green leaf and stem, and set the flowers around thickly, one against the other.  We saw here a flower called the "variable," or "mujercita" (young woman), because it changed three times a day--in the morning pure white, at noon rose color, and at sundown deep red, which a botanist once told me was nature's mourning.</p><P>There was a man-of-war in the harbor, and its captain planned for me a palanquin in which I could be taken across in perfect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:safety from any jarring or the weather; this was a ship's cot swung to two poles, and carried by four men, with a light awning over a frame, and its white duck curtains could roll up or lower at pleasure.</p><P>Stephens, the Governor, and Mr. Fre&acute;mont had many talks over the Isthmus railway which was just then being built, and over the future railways across the continent, which are now completed, but which then were only believed possible by the few who were working for them.  I had seen enough of the suffering of the emigration, when I crossed the Isthmus in going out, to be able to realize the terrible loss of life required to build this Isthmus road.  The first eight miles go over marsh ground which gave very poor foundation.  The difficulty of planting the piles was just then the uppermost subject.  I remember Stephens saying that as yet they stood only on human bones.  This was not literally, but figuratively true, for the climate cost many lives.  The terms of agreement on which laborers came out were three months' work and their free passage back to New York or to California, as they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:chose.  Only about thirty per cent claimed this passage, and almost all of those went back to New York; the rest were buried where they had fallen, from the climate; and Stephens himself contracted such a deadly form of chills and fever that he lived but a few years after this.  He is best known by his writings and travels in Arabia and Central America; but his friends knew also how far-sighted he was in practical matters.  His was one of the impelling minds towards building the Croton Aqueduct.  When we were first in New York, in '48, he drove us to what was then a country spot surrounded by trees and open meadows--the reservoir on Forty-second Street--and from the top of it pointed upward to the fields and rocks that lay beyond, telling us that he was so convinced that the near future of New York lay there that he had invested in lands which would make the fortune of some one else; that he would not live to see it, because, naturally delicate, his health was too broken for him to look forward to any length of life.  He told us of the contempt with which his belief was received by the wealthy citizens <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:of his acquaintance, who scouted the idea of entering into any such "wild speculations" as that; told us of calculations they had made how the interest on the money which he had expended would overbalance any profits before those lots could be built upon.  He said that he had made his will, giving that property to young relations, who would certainly have the benefit of his foresight--as they have had.</p><P>The steamers were then a month apart.  We were both comfortably well long before the time for starting came.  I was not strong enough to leave my room, but Mr. Fre&acute;mont, in spite of prophetic warnings in regard to the influence of the climate, made daily excursions in the neighborhood with Saunders, searching about the country, with its new and interesting botany.  We had not a bad time at all.  February is one of the best months in the tropics.  We had lots of books, and saw intelligent and pleasant people; everything about us was beautiful and comfortable, and our minds were entirely content with our own affairs, and it was a novelty to be quietly together, without a separation in prospect.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>My palanquin was ready and was brought up for me to see.  It looked like the illustration to "Madagascar" in an old-fashioned geography.  We had to time starting so as to avoid being detained in Chagres, and we had also to have a sufficiently strong party to meet a new danger which had grown up with the travel on the Isthmus--a regular banditti force, which waylaid and robbed, and sometimes murdered, passengers; this was recruited from our country, Australia, and especially Jamaica.</p><P>It had never come in my way to meet a man entirely without personal courage.  It was such a matter of course to me that men took care of women, and could not be frightened by anything, that it came to me, as a young friend of mine says, "a rev'lation, a perfect rev'lation," to come upon such an instance of want of courage as we met at this time.  Our party had been carefully chosen; competent persons had looked out for every belonging--good men to carry my hammock, and good reliable men for the baggage; and, in short, a good fighting as well as travelling force had been put together.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:<P>The California steamer was in, and one of its passengers, having his gold with him in a small trunk, actually came to us not only to ask us to take him across in our party to protect this gold, but to keep it for him until the following day, when we were to start.  He was an entire stranger to us, but was an educated man, and appeared to be, what he said he was, a physician.  He said he heard of my being ill there, and of the strength of our party, and that he thought he could go as my physician, and not be suspected of having treasure with him.  He was in an anguish of terror about his gold.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont let him join us.  We were only to cross the plain a few miles, and make our camp at the foot of the hills that first night.  I was put in my hammock and carefully carried down into the street, after a leave-taking with our dear, kind friend which left me shaken.  Her hospitality and motherly goodness and care had been vital to me now on two occasions, and she herself was so intelligent and charming that it had been a pleasure to know her, apart from this.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:and herself had had long talks on all subjects, and it was a pain to each to lose the other.  My men were very proud of my new equipage, the first of its kind ever seen there, and the people flocked around to look as it as they would to any other show; the men would halt to explain it, and expatiate upon its merits, while equally free explanations of myself were asked and given at the same time.  Among a colored race I would have seemed fair at any time, but now, whitened by long illness, they thought me dying, and said so.  They hardly offered bets that I would not reach the other side, but something to the same effect, while the compassionate women would make prayers over me that I might at least get to my own country before dying.  "La pobrecita! morir tan lejo de su pais!" (Ah, the poor young thing--dying so far from her own country!)</p><P>When we came to our halting-place for the night, I was already so excited that an opiate was given me; this had only the effect of making me quiet and dumb, but did not make me sleep.  I lay in my hammock watching all things; I wanted to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:rouse some one to take care of a white horse which had a great vampire bat upon its neck, fanning it with its wide wings and sucking its blood, so that next day we could not use it, but I was tongue-tied.</p><P>The next day we had a longer pull, and here the physician who had asked our protection could in turn have been of some use by keeping near me, and seeing that I received at once any care that might be needed; this he offered to do, and so was put nearest me in the file when we started.  I fell asleep, and they made a little halt that I might have my sleep unbroken; the baggage escort was at some little distance, so as not to disturb me.  "The doctor" thought too much time was being lost, and that his dear trunk would be exposed to more evil chances as dark fell, so he gave an order to the men to go on with the baggage; and they not doubting his authority, went on, leaving us just the palanquin and its bearers, with Mr. Fre&acute;mont and my little girl, to follow through the most dangerous part of the route, all defiles and thickly wooded mountain-sides; also, he carried off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:with him my medicines.  Saunders had been charged not to lose sight of the baggage, and, suspecting nothing, was giving his whole attention to that, so was off with it.</p><P>Our punishment to the doctor was not to let him have our care on the descent of the river.  We left him to take his chance there.  They told us at Gorgena of the recent murder of thirteen persons, the whole of a party, by the Jamaica negroes who had brought them up.  We took care this story should be repeated, with details, to him, and then refused him the protection of our boat, which he shamelessly begged for.</p><P>Going down the river was much easier than coming up it; we had only to float, and keep the boat off from the sunken trees and points of land; occasionally the men used their long sweeps.  It took but two days, as we went with the stream, and we had in that way but one night on the river.  We took all the best precautions of thorough shelter from the night dews, and a great fire to purify the air about us, and kept to our quinine and coffee.  The heat did not seem very great, and I was absolutely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:comfortable in my hammock, which made a sort of gondola of our canoe, and the Scotch plaid stretched over it made a cool shade beneath.  We were in such content that the beauty of the tropical growth, with all its strange shapes and splendid coloring, its giant creepers and masses of blossoms, gave us the delight that we ought to have had in them, but which I could not feel fully when I was going up the river.  I saw it all now with new eyes.</p><P>Towards the close of the second day, as we neared the mouth of the river, across a bend which stretched before us green and feathery with its palm-trees, I caught sight of a dark straight line pointing upward.  If I had known what I was doing, it would have been unpardonable, but too much fever had unhinged me; and in my excitement at recognizing the mast of a steamer, I sprang up, crying there was the ship that was to take me home, and so undid all the good work that had been done by the month of quiet at Panama.  This time the fever set in for good.  The climate had told on us too, and even the one night on the river <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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188.sgm:was sure of bad results.  But here I came on one of my best pieces of good fortune.  At that time this steamer line was officered from our navy.  The percentage on the treasure carried gave them each month more than their usual year's pay, while the owners of the steamers and treasure had the certainty of brave as well as honorable men to protect their property.  After all, it was not so long since the Gulf had been the scene of a great deal of piracy, and with this new stream of gold pouring into that lonely region, there were rumors of a renewal of the old pirate business.</p><P>Commodore Porter, father of the admiral, had distinguished himself so much in the Mediterranean by his services in helping to put down piracy there that he was sent to the West Indies to stop it in those waters.  Lafitte's men were then (1824) the terror of commerce.  He succeeded in doing this thoroughly.  There was more than suspicion that it was connived at by the Spanish authorities in the West India Islands, and at one of these ports--Porto Rico--the resentment for disturbing their profits <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:took the form of an insult to our flag; this Commodore Porter compelled them to atone for.  But even then we had a habit of studying Spanish feelings first, and our national feeling after; so Commodore Porter was court-martialled on some point involving the letter of the law.  The finding of the court-martial was against him.</p><P>One can imagine the feeling of an officer who knew that he had performed unparalleled services, and been of greatest benefit to his country.  He must have looked at this sentence by the light of the eighty odd whale-ships which he had burned in the Pacific Ocean, inflicting immense loss on British commerce, and making the streets of London "burn dark for a year," as was said in Parliament; there must have crowded on him the memories of years of isolation and separation from home, all the weary, unshared hours that go to make up the hardest side of a naval officer's life, his joy and pride in his service to his country; and then to strike, as it were, on a sunken rock in this cold, bloodless interpretation of a treaty stipulation discriminating in favor of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:enemy!  It was no wonder that the old officer broke his sword and threw it away, vowing never to draw it again in defence of a country that would let him be treated in that manner.  This was under the administration of Mr. Adams.</p><P>Diplomatic relations were opened with Turkey in General Jackson's administration.  It was necessary to send some one who should be suitable in all respects.  Commodore Porter's name was already known there from his exploits in his young days; it was synonymous with the power and the dignity of our flag.  This led to looking into the reasons for his resigning from the navy, and renewed the indignation wihch those who had followed the court-martial at the time felt at its cold, ungenerous treatment of one of the country's most efficient officers.</p><P>My father was a born redresser of wrongs, and General Jackson was not the man to bother over a technical detail where the honor of the flag was concerned.  With him the honor of the flag came first, after that the sensibilities of other nations.</p><P>Commodore Porter, then living on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:Mediterranean, was old and broken with exile and many cares when there reached him the respectful and flattering request to be our first representative to the Turkish Empire.  He made the long journey to the United States--by sail then--to give his thanks in person to those who had done him this late act of justice.  Finding that my father, who had never seen him, had most information regarding, and the keenest interest in redressing, this wrong, he gave him his warm friendship.  During the time he remained in Washington he was constantly with my mother as well as my father, and in this way an intimacy was commenced which lasted through his life.</p><P>It was his eldest son who had command of this steamer, with a staff under him of his young naval friends, among them a good surgeon, who said I must have at least some hours of absolute repose.  The ship was light, and out of coal, and rolled heavily in the swell off the mouth of the Chagres.  The coming on board of the passengers would necessarily make a great noise.  The captain was not then, any more than now, a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:laggard in his decisions.  He steamed down to Portobello, where the waters were calm, and gained for me the freedom from all motion and quiet on the ship.  The passengers were furious at being delayed, and having to come that distance on the little tender.  After the fashion of our people, they immediately held a public meeting, passed a vote of censure on the captain, and adopted resolutions recommending the company to remove him, under penalty of the displeasure of the California travel.  Having done this in their haste, they immediately undid it as soon as they learned the reason for the captain's conduct, and followed another and better fashion of our people in undoing an injustice, and did all in their power to help him take care of me.  In every part of my journey I came upon proof upon proof of this manly kindness and care for women among our American men.  To travel alone in Europe is impossible; even travelling with one's children and a maid you do not receive the respect or attention that you have if there is a gentleman in the party.  But in our country <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:it is exactly different.  The need of attention or assistance draws out that instinctive sense of protection which seems to be innate in our people.  To be in mourning, or look ill or sad, or to be encumbered with children, is a sure appeal to the exercise of this instinct.</p><P>A part of the main cabin had been portioned off with sheets and table-cloths tacked to the ceiling and floor, and to keep me from being thrown off I was lashed to the sofa, for it was now March, and we were already in a norther, and continued in one gale after another until we reached New York.  When I was able to understand again, I found myself tightly lashed to this sofa, the ship rolling and pitching tremendously.  The officers would come to look after me often--sometimes in their "rain clothes," icicles on their beards and eyelashes, and very glad at last to find me not only alive, but able to ask questions and understand everything again.  I have been told since that by all the laws of medicine I should have died then, but the greatest physicians maintain that there are more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:resources in nature than are yet dreamed of in their philosophy, and this was a case in support of that idea.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont also was extremely ill; perhaps we had all been undermined by the month's stay on the Isthmus and the river travel, and the anxieties about my illness added the feather's weight.</p><P>A beautiful English copy of Lane's translation of the <HI REND="italics">Arabian Nights</HI>
188.sgm:, with fine English illustrations, was among the books that had been put up for my little girl.  Grown people were very thankful for it on the ship going up from Panama, and then, and later in our camping-life, when it was read aloud to her, fragments of it interwove themselves with our daily experience, and it was the child's idea that when we reached home we should relate to her grandfather our voyage, as Sindbad related his; we too had had our dangers by sea, and seen strange beasts and birds; we had found our "valley of diamonds," and the alternations and sudden transitions in climates, languages, people of every varying rank and dress, our unusual modes of travel--all seemed nearer to fiction than to the formal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:routine life to which we had belonged, and which shortly before had been to us the only way of living.</p><P>During the Mexican war, a Mexican who had brought through secret despatches at great risk, in telling my father of the difficulties he encountered, said he had to leave ordinary travelled routes, and make his way as he best could by mule or horse, or at times on foot, through to Vera Cruz--as he put it in his broken English, "on horse-back or mule-back, and many times on foot-back."  We could include this last mode of travel among the many ways in which our year's journey had been made.  Starting by railway from Washington, then the ocean steamer, then the little whale-boat on the Chagres, then the mules of the land crossing, with again a steamship, followed by such experiments in carriage-horses that driving became a novelty, always walking in hard, troublesome places, and then with my ship's hammock as a palanquin; on the return across the Isthmus, together with the varied peoples we had seen, ranging from the highest to the lowest in intelligence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:and cultivation, differing languages, color, and any number of new and startling phases.  Of social observances and want of observances we had a great deal to tell--talks that were never to end, for we were not to go back to California; <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
188.sgm: was settled.  The risks to health were too certain and too great; the trial of separation unnecessary, now that Mr. Fre&acute;mont's place as Senator would keep him in Washington through the winters.</p><P>Having just gone through the experience that all our "best laid plans had gone agley," and that it was of no use for man to propose when the whole chapter of accidents lay open to dispose of you otherwise, I would lie contentedly making plans for the long peaceful time ahead of me in Washington.  This was early in March.  In October of that year I was again at sea, had again a touch of fever at the Isthmus in crossing, and it was three years before I again saw any of my home people.  But it is only the Immortals who read the Book of Destiny.  Fortunately for us, we live our lives only as we see the days.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:<P>We were a sorry-looking lot when we landed; even my little girl had had some of the fever of the Isthmus.  Her splendid hair had been cut close, and its loss, with a silk handkerchief knotted about her head to take its place, altered her almost beyond my own recognition.  When we reached our rooms at the Irving House, we laughed at our own appearance: we looked as though we had been taken off a wreck, so thin and haggard were we, and in such odd dress.  Jenny Lind was in her progress through the country at that time, and we had the rooms that had been beautifully fitted up for her at the Irving House, then a fashionable up-town hotel opposite Stewart's Chambers Street warehouse.  How good it was to get to regular things again!--the warm, carpeted rooms, the large bath, the white roses and my dear violets, with which Mr. Howland never failed to welcome me to New York.</p><P>Of all my carefully prepared outfit, fire and the accidents of travel had left me only this ridiculous toilet which I saw reflected in the long mirrors on every side--my dark blue cloth riding-habit, cut short, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:hanging as straight and shapeless about my ankles as the clothes on the women in a Noah's ark; black-satin slippers; a Leghorn flat, tied down with a China crape scarf; doubled and folded about me, the faded Scotch plaid which had served as a carpet in camp and an awning on the river Chagres.  Just opposite, at the door of Stewart's we saw a match-girl dressed very much in this way, except that her shoes were better for the weather.</p><P>We took two days of needed rest and refitting.  There were not the resources in New York then that we have now, but forty-eight hours restored us, and sent us on our way equipped like other people.</p><P>As in the old ballads, I <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Had been gone but a year and a day,"</HI>
188.sgm:<LB>when I was again back in my father's house.</p><P>THE END.</p></DIV>
188.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:<DIV><AD><P><HI REND="bold">GEORGE ELIOT'S NOVELS,</HI>
188.sgm:</p><P>LIBRARY EDITION.</p><P><HI REND="italics">ADAM BEDE</HI>
188.sgm:.  Illustrated.  12mo, Cloth, $1 50.</p><P><HI REND="italics">DANIEL DERONDA</HI>
188.sgm:.  2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 00.</p><P><HI REND="italics">FELIX HOLT, THE RADICAL</HI>
188.sgm:.  Illustrated.  12mo, Cloth, $1 50.</p><P><HI REND="italics">MIDDLEMARCH</HI>
188.sgm:.  2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $3 00.</p><P><HI REND="italics">ROMOLA</HI>
188.sgm:.  Illustrated.  12mo, Cloth, $1 50.</p><P><HI REND="italics">SCENES OF CLERICAL LIFE, and SILAS MARNER, The Weaver of Raveloe</HI>
188.sgm:.  Illustrated.  12mo, Cloth, $1 50.</p><P><HI REND="italics">THE MILL ON THE FLOSS</HI>
188.sgm:.  Illustrated.  12mo, Cloth, $1 50.</p><P>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS <HI REND="italics">also publish Cheaper Editions</HI>
188.sgm: of GEORGE ELIOT'S NOVELS, as follows:</p><P>DANIEL DERONDA.  8vo, Paper, 50 cents.--FELIX HOLT.  8vo, Paper, 50 cents.--THE MILL ON THE FLOSS.  8vo, Paper, 50 cents.--MIDDLEMARCH.  8vo, Paper, 75 cts.; Cloth, $1 25.--ROMOLA.  8vo, Paper, 50 cents.--SCENES OF CLERICAL LIFE.  8vo, Paper, 50 cents.--SILAS MARNER.  12mo, Cloth, 75 cents.</p><P><HI REND="bold">Published by HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, N.Y.</HI>
188.sgm:</p><P><HI REND="italics">Either of the above books sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price.</HI>
188.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:<P>BY VIRGINIA W. JOHNSON.</p><P><HI REND="italics">A Sack of Gold</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P>A Novel.  8vo, Paper, 35 cents.</p><P>A novel which places the author among the foremost writers of the day.-- <HI REND="italics">Evening Post</HI>
188.sgm:, N.Y.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Joseph the Jew</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P>The Story of an Old House.  8vo, Paper, 40 cents.</p><P>It is well written, and abounds in startling situations, hair-breadth escapes, counterplots, and feminine fidelity.-- <HI REND="italics">Albany Evening Journal</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Miss Nancy's Pilgrimage</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P>A Story of Travel.  8vo, Paper, 40 cents.</p><P><HI REND="italics">The Calderwood Secret</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P>A Novel.  8vo, Paper, 40 cents.</p><P>Will advance the reputation of the author.-- <HI REND="italics">Saturday Evening Gazette</HI>
188.sgm:, Boston.</p><P><HI REND="italics">The Catskill Fairies</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P>Illustrated by ALFRED FREDERICKS.  Square 8vo, Illuminated Cloth, Gilt Edges, $3 00.</p><P>Miss Johnson tells a fairy story to perfection.-- <HI REND="italics">Christian Intelligencer</HI>
188.sgm:, N.Y.</p><P><HI REND="bold">Published by HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, New York.</HI>
188.sgm:</p><P>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS <HI REND="italics">will send either of the above works by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:<P>HARPER'S LIBRARY</p><P>OF</p><P>SELECT NOVELS.</p><P>THIS favorite series of novels, begun more than thirty-five years ago with the publication of Bulwer's <HI REND="italics">Pelham</HI>
188.sgm:, now contains over six hundred volumes, and the names of the most popular novelists of England and America, whose works, in this neat and inexpensive form, have been a source of pleasure and culture in thousands of American households.  No other collection of novels in the world presents so varied, so rare, or so large an amount of excellent and entertaining literature.  Each volume has been carefully selected; and so rigid has been the supervision of the list, that the admission of a work into the series has been, as it will continue to be, an ample guarantee of rightful claim to public favor and of its entire suitableness for family reading.</p><P>For list of volumes published, address</p><P>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,</p><P>FRANKLIN SQUARE, N.Y.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
188.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
188.sgm:<P>HARPER'S PERIODICALS.</p><P><HI REND="italics">HARPER'S MAGAZINE</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P>That <HI REND="italics">Harper's Magazine</HI>
188.sgm: has become a literary institution and an educator of the people a half million of readers know to-day.-- <HI REND="italics">Boston Transcript</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P><HI REND="italics">HARPER'S WEEKLY</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Harper's Weekly</HI>
188.sgm: should be in every family throughout the land, as a purer, more interesting, higher-toned, better-illustrated paper is not published in this or any other country.-- <HI REND="italics">Commercial Bulletin</HI>
188.sgm:, Boston.</p><P><HI REND="italics">HARPER'S BAZAR</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P>A weekly devoted to various departments of literature, fashion, and domestic arts.  It is an admirably conducted illustrated paper, containing essays, editorials, stories, and general information of a superior order.-- <HI REND="italics">Brooklyn Eagle</HI>
188.sgm:.</p><P>One copy of either will be sent for one year, <HI REND="italics">postage prepaid</HI>
188.sgm: by the Publishers, to any Subscriber in the United States or Canada, on receipt of Four Dollars.</p><P>HARPER'S MAGAZINE, HARPER'S WEEKLY, and HARPER'S BAZAR, for one year, $10 00; or any two for $7 00: postage prepaid by the Publishers.</p><P>An Extra copy of either the MAGAZINE, WEEKLY, or BAZAR will be sent gratis for every Club of FIVE SUBSCRIBERS at $4 00 each, in one remittance; or Six Copies for $20 00, without extra copy: postage prepaid by the Publishers.</p><P>Address<HSEP>HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, New York.</p></AD>
189.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-189</TITLE>
189.sgm:<TITLE>Life and adventures of Col. L. A. Norton: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
189.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
189.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
189.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
189.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
189.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
189.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
189.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>13-5722</LCCN>
189.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
189.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>30435</COPYRIGHT>
189.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P><illus entity="a189-0001" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>LIFE</P>
189.sgm:<P>AND</P>
189.sgm:<P>ADVENTURES</P>
189.sgm:<P>OF</P>
189.sgm:<P>COL. L. A. NORTON.</P>
189.sgm:<P>WRITTEN BY HIMSELF.</P>
189.sgm:<P>OAKLAND, CAL.,</P>
189.sgm:<P>PACIFIC PRESS PUBLISHING HOUSE.</P>
189.sgm:<P>1887.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1887,</P>
189.sgm:<P>BY L. A. NORTON,</P>
189.sgm:<P>IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS, AT WASHINGTON.</P>
189.sgm:<P>THE PACIFIC PRESS,</P>
189.sgm:<P>Printers, Electrotypers, and Binders,</P>
189.sgm:<P>OAKLAND AND SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>AUTHOR'S PREFACE.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>IN unveiling my life to the public gaze, I am not actuated by any eulogistic or mercenary motives.  Nor do I think that the life of any man in the ordinary walks of life is going to electrify the world, or even be extensively circulated or generally read, in this day and age when so many are rushing into print.  And as evidence that this sentiment is honest, the small edition of one thousand copies is sufficient.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding this declaration, I imagine I have a history, and in many respects a remarkable one; and that it is fraught with interest which will repay the reader for his labor, and more especially the young American who is so unfortunate as to be turned out on the world without a penny or influential friends to aid him.  It will at least show him what one waif, cast out upon the stormy billows of life, has accomplished; or, in other words, what a determined spirit, possessed of energy and perseverance, may accomplish.  But my principal object in writing these sketches is to leave my record with my children and friends.  And I will further say that I have long hesitated before publishing, and it is now with a feeling of great diffidence that I permit the work to go to press.  Not that I fear that it does not possess interest sufficient to warrant its reading, but from the extent and strangeness of many incidents that it contains.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>But facts are stranger than fiction, and there are so many living witnesses to the most remarkable scenes and events here narrated that I take courage, although I have omitted many things that have occurred, and sights which I have seen, because I felt that they would not be credited.  For instance, in writing up my memoirs, in one place I had stated that, at the ancient city of Pueblo Viejo, Lieutenant Conkling and myself lay beneath the shade of a castor-bean tree which was more than thirty feet in height, and more than eighteen inches at the butt, and which was undoubtedly more than thirty years old.  A friend at my elbow said, "Norton, strike it out; I know that your statement is true, but you cannot make the Northern world believe it."  I struck it out, and yet when any of my readers go to Los Angeles, if they will go down in the old Spanish portion of the town they will find a castor-bean root with four branches coming from it, either of which is over six inches through; and any one who will go to Anaheim, Los Angeles County, and travel a mile northeast from that place, can credit my cactus story.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But enough of this; no man should apologize for telling the truth; for "he who most investigates will most believe."  Read my whole volume, skeptic, then reply.  I have often heard it remarked that the preface to a book is seldom read, hence I refer the reader to the contents of the work.</P>
189.sgm:<P>L. A. Norton.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE.</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I.--History of the Norton Family--Parentage and Birth of the Subject of This Volume--Leaving Home at the Age of Eleven Years--Journey to Upper Canada<HSEP>9</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER II.--Life Affected by Circumstances in Youth--A Night of Fearful Suspense in a Strange Hotel--A Lucky Escape<HSEP>14</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER III.--A Perilous Voyage--Working Passage toward Home on a Lake Ontario Schooner--Arrival Home<HSEP>21</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER IV.--A Terrible Storm at Buffalo--Recovering a Longabsent Brother--A Terrible Night in a Canadian Forest<HSEP>25</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER V.--The Canadian Rebellion of 1837-38--Enlistment in the Spartan Rangers--The First Skirmish--The Force Deserted by the Commander--Attempt to Reach Home<HSEP>31</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VI.--A Prisoner of War--Assisting Others to Escape--Held without Bail, on Various Charges<HSEP>36</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VII.--Thrilling Incidents of Prison Life--Hard Fare--A Postal Arrangement--A Free Fight<HSEP>42</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER VIII.--Fruitless Efforts to Escape--Bribing a Sentinel--A Female Spy--The Populace of London Frightened by Harmless Indians<HSEP>53</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER IX.--From Prison to Hospital--The Devil Cheated--Final Release on a Sentence of "Voluntary Banishment"--A Ninety-mile Tramp<HSEP>62</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER X.--Experiences in Michigan and Illinois--Medicinal Discovery--Attempt to Inaugurate an Invasion of Canada--Frustrated by the U.S. Marshal--Narrow Escape from a Flood--Marriage<HSEP>68</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XI.--Memoirs of the Mexican War--Raising a Company in Kane County, Illinois--Arrival at Carlton, Louisiana--Down with the Measles--Arrival at Tampico, Mexico--The "Green Sucker" Who Called at the British Consulate for Beer--"Pat's" First Duty on Guard--The Girl Recruit<HSEP>78</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XII.--The Mexican War, Continued--The Denizens of the Chaparral--Expedition up the Panuco and Tamosee Rivers<HSEP>89</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIII.--The Mexican War, Continued--A Daring Exploit at Rancho Ratonus--Pueblo Viejo--A Great Festival<HSEP>104</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIV.--The Mexican War, Continued--An Exciting Cock-fight--Trial of an Irish Soldier for Killing a Mexican--Disobedience of Orders--Expedition to the Sierra Madre&grave; Country--Ruins of an Ancient City<HSEP>117</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XV.--The Mexican War, Continued--The Story of a Tiger--A Weary Tramp on Top of the Chaparral<HSEP>138</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XVI.--The Mexican War, continued--Winter Quarters--Expedition to Tampico el Alto-Capturing the Town with Twenty Men--Reprimanded by General Gates<HSEP>144</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XVII.--The Mexican War, Continued--Colonel Walker, the Texan Ranger--Fall of the National Bridge--Battle of Cerro Gordo--Perote Mountain<HSEP>153</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XVIII.--The Mexican War, Continued--From Huamantla to the City of Mexico--Observations in the City--Convent of San Domingo--Hand-to-hand Conflict with a Lancer Chief<HSEP>172</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XIX.--The Mexican War, Continued--A Mysterious Lady--Removal to Puebla--Return to Mexico--Narrow Escape on the Battle-field of Contreras--Avenging an Outrage by Guerrillas<HSEP>180</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XX.--The Mexican War, Continued--The City of Puebla--Riding Out for Adventure--The Mexican Rheumatism--The City of Cholula--Unexpectedly Meeting a Brother<HSEP>191</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXI.--The Mexican War, Continued--Senor Queretaro's Family--Another Interesting Female<HSEP>202</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXII.--The Mexican War, Continued--Another Visit to Cholula and Its Great Pyramid--Frustrating a Criminal Plot among U.S. Officers<HSEP>207</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXIII.--The Mexican War, Continued--Capturing a Guerrilla Rendezvous--Preparations to Evacuate Mexican Territory--Threefold Duties and Their Perplexities<HSEP>216</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXIV.--The Mexican War, Continued--Superseding the Quartermaster-General--Arrival at New Orleans--General Jollification--Sharpers "Bucked and Gagged"--Voyage up the Mississippi and Trouble with the Steamboat Captain--Reception at Home--Letter from Colonel Hicks<HSEP>227</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXV.--Subduing a Noted "Bully."<HSEP>237</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXVI.--The Restoration of a Stolen Corpse--Studying Law--Dispelling a Mob<HSEP>242</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXVII.--Departure for California--Fruitless Attempts at Detention<HSEP>248</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXVIII.--The Journey as Far as Carson Valley--Adventure at the Missouri River--The Indians on the Plains Demand Toll<HSEP>252</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXIX--Relief Train from California--Military Men and the Regulation Ration--A Fright While on Guard--Crossing the Mountains<HSEP>257</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXX.--Initiated as a Mountaineer--A lonely Journey Across the Sierras<HSEP>263</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXI.--Another Trip from Carson to Placerville--Forcing a Toll-bridge<HSEP>270</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXII.--Experience as a Miner--Supporting a Sick Crowd through the Winter--A Muscular Contest Over a Claim--Resuming the Law<HSEP>274</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXIII.--Lawyer and Merchant--"Uncle Billy's" Larceny<HSEP>279</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXIV.--An Exciting Horse-stealing Case--Some Peculiarities of "Early Days" Practice<HSEP>285</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXV.--Opposition to Lynch Law--Formation of Society--Outgeneraling a Mob--The End of the "Hangtown Oak."<HSEP>291</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXVI.--A Mysterious Robbery, and the Robber's Confession<HSEP>294</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXVII.--Placerville Guards--The County Seat Question<HSEP>303</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXVIII.--A Trip to Monterey County--San Luis Rancho--Shaved by a Blacksmith<HSEP>312</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XXXIX.--District Attorney in Western Utah--In Camp with the Mormons--Cheating the Fleas--Letters from Elder Orson Hyde<HSEP>321</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XL.--Fire in Placerville--Removal to Healdsburg--The Squatter War<HSEP>333</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XLI.--The Squatter War, Continued<HSEP>342</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XLII.--The Squatter War, Continued<HSEP>350</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XLIII.--Election as Colonel of an Illinois Regiment--A Steamboat Wheel<HSEP>357</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XLIV.--A Visit to the East--The Departure--"Two Ladies Leff"--Arrival at St. Charles, Illinois--Not Recognized by Old Acquaintances--Chicago--Detroit--On to London, Canada<HSEP>361</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XLV.--Visit to the East, Continued--Old-time Haunts in Canada--Only One Norton Left--On to Ogdensburg, New York--To Norton Creek, in Lower Canada--Childhood's Landmarks all Obliterated<HSEP>369</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XLVI.--Visit to the East, Continued--Montreal--Notre Dame--Victoria Bridge<HSEP>380</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XLVII.--Visit to the East, Continued--Vermont and New Hampshire--Boston--Albany--The Hudson<HSEP>383</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XLVIII.--Visit to the East, Continued--New York--Invulnerable to the Arts of New York Sharpers--Various Attractions<HSEP>390</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER XLIX.--Visit to the East, Continued--Philadelphia--Baltimore--Washington--Mount Vernon<HSEP>400</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER L.--Visit to the East, Continued--"On to Richmond"--The City's Prospects--Evidences of the Civil War Obliterated, but Relics of the Revolution Carefully Preserved--Condition of the Negroes<HSEP>411</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER LI.--Visit to the East, Continued--Homeward Bound--Three Winters in One Year--The Californian's Pride in Presenting His State to Fellow-passengers<HSEP>418</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER LII.--My California Home--The Attractions in and around Healdsburg<HSEP>423</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER LIII.--Return to Business--Over a Thirty-foot Precipice with a Team and Three Fellow-passengers--A Desperate Attempt at Assassination--Death of Mrs. Norton, and Subsequent Marriage<HSEP>428</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER LIV.--Political--Letter to Hon. John Bush, of Placerville<HSEP>434</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER LV.--Complimentary--Letter from Gen. R. Patterson, U.S.A.<HSEP>439</P>
189.sgm:<P>CHAPTER LVI.--A Sea Voyage to Santa Barbara--An Enchanting Sunset--A Tour around the Valley, and Description of Prominent Places<HSEP>442</P>
189.sgm:<P>POEMS.<LB>To Miss Minnie Molloy, Santa Rosa, Cal<HSEP>449<LB>To My Wife<HSEP>450<LB>To Mary<HSEP>450<LB>Respectfully Addressed to One of the American Officers in Mexico<HSEP>452<LB>To My Truest and Best Friend<HSEP>454<LB>To A. C. Barry, Esq<HSEP>454<LB>Black Eyes<HSEP>455<LB>To the One for Whom It Was Intended<HSEP>456<LB>Lines to Mrs. Elizabeth Hall<HSEP>457<LB>Midnight and the Grave<HSEP>459<LB>Lines Regarding a Flower Kept Ten Years<HSEP>459<LB>The Sylphide<HSEP>462<LB>Ode to the Rt. Rev. J. K. Barry<HSEP>463<LB>Montega's Adieu to the Fox<HSEP>464<LB>Lines<HSEP>465<LB>On Slander<HSEP>466<LB>Lines Respectfully Addressed to --<HSEP>467<LB>The Will of Leonatus<HSEP>469<LB>Written on the Summit of Fitch Mountain, While Sitting on an Anthill<HSEP>470<LB>A Dream<HSEP>471<LB>A Dialogue between the Head and Heart, as to Which Had the Stronger Claim upon the Soul<HSEP>476<LB>Lines<HSEP>481<LB>The Rio Grande Shore<HSEP>482<LB>The Patriot's Dream<HSEP>484</P>
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189.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>HISTORY OF THE NORTON FAMILY.</P>
189.sgm:<P>THE history of the Nortons, of which I am about to write, antedates the Revolutionary War, how long, I do not know, but the traditions of our branch of the family commence with a sea captain, an Englishman, who owned and sailed his ship.  This man had two sons, both of whom he settled in America, one in what is now the State of Connecticut, and one in Virginia.  As to the Virginia stock, I know nothing about it; as to the Connecticut settler, tradition follows back six generations, commencing with Eleazer, and passing down successively with John, Mirum, Daniel, Lewis, and Lewis Adelbert--the subject of this sketch.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Daniel Norton, my grandfather, at an early day moved from some of the Eastern States back into Lower Canada, near the line of New York State, in the town shire of Hemmingford, upon a stream called Norton Creek, named after him.  The country was very heavily timbered and sparsely settled.  At the time of which I write, he had made considerable improvements in clearing, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>After the close of the War of the Revolution, however, he removed back to Lower Canada, and again settled on his old farm in Hemmingford, and remained there until 1808 or 1809, when he emigrated to Upper Canada and located, with the younger portion of his family, in London, a district town of Westminster.  At this place he remained up to his death.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In the meantime my father, Lewis Norton, had married <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:Elizabeth Burhart, who was of German extration, having been born and raised in Pennsylvania.  On their marriage they settled in the State of New York, near Chautauqua, close to the Canada line, where they remained until the war of 1812.  When the British had massacred the inhabitants of Black Rock and Buffalo, the New York militia was called out, my father among others.  At this time he removed his wife and three children to the village of Batavia, Genesee County, New York.  He was engaged in the affair of the destruction of Black Rock, and also at the burning of Buffalo.  When the enemy's forces were at last driven out, they were concentrated against the garrison of Fort Erie, which was on the Canadian side of the Niagara River and occupied by the Americans.  A call was now issued to the New York militia for recruits to join the regular force for the defense of Fort Erie.  My father volunteered, and in the three days' fight before Fort Erie, at a <HI REND="italics">sortie</HI>
189.sgm:<P>Soon after the war, my grandfather gave my father the old homestead in Hemmingford, the buildings and other improvements having been destroyed during the war.  My father returned to Chautauqua, Franklin County, New York, in 1818, where he resided at my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>As my parents were poor and had a large family, I was determined to look out for myself.  Early on the second day of May, 1829, I tied my worldly possessions in a pocket handkerchief, strung it over my shoulder, and, like a young quail with a shell on its back, I left the nest with twenty-five cents in my pocket, and "dug out" on foot.  The second day I arrived at the Read Mill, St. Lawrence County, New York, where I hired to a man by the name of Tibbits, at four dollars per month, and I worked four months.  At the end of that time I again shouldered my pack, with my sixteen dollars, and went to Ogdensburg, where I crossed the St. Lawrence River and took a Canadian steamer to Queenstown, <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
189.sgm:<P>It was claimed that the vessel was loaded with brick; I have since been of the opinion that it was a smuggler.  On our way up we encountered a heavy gale, but at length we landed in the woods at an anchorage they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I had been told that I would have to go by the way of Cettle Creek, and when I had journeyed about half a day, I commenced making inquiries for Pot Creek; but I was made all right on that point by a party informing me that it was Cettle, not Pot, Creek that I wanted.  In due time I reached my uncles in Westminster, and found them to be close-fisted, thriving farmers.  I was well received and went to work for one of my uncles; no wages was named.  I worked for him four months, for which he gave me a pair of sheep's-gray pants and made all square by so doing.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I will here take occasion to say that, during all my perambulations, I never lost an opportunity to learn to read and write.  On leaving my uncle's I went to London Gove, where I made arrangements with an old Dutchman to do chores night and morning and go to school.  Here I got three months' schooling, and, being quick to learn and having a retentive memory, I advanced with my reading, writing, and spelling very fast.  As spring approached I hired to a man by the name of Perkins, for six months at six dollars per month.  From him I got only a small portion of my wages, and that in store pay.  I continued to work that summer and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>LIFE AFFECTED BY CIRCUMSTANCES IN YOUTH.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I HAVE come to the conclusion that there are circumstances in early life which color our future existence and stick to us like the shirt of Nessus until the day of our death.  About the year 1832, when a mere youth, I found myself, after eighteen months' rambling over the wilds of Canada, some seven or eight hundred miles from home.  The country, at that time, was sparsely settled.  Travel was almost entirely local, farmers traversing the country with ox-carts or wagons, from their homes to the small market towns.  Mails, in most instances, were carried on horseback, with once in awhile, on the more frequented thoroughfares, a stage-coach.  But if a man wished to make a journey of any distance, it was generally performed on foot.</P>
189.sgm:<P>For the year past I had been working by the month, at eight dollars per month, and at the end of that time found myself in possession of what then seemed to me to be all the wealth I needed.  I accordingly resolved to visit my home in Lower Canada, near Montreal.  I therefore invested about twenty dollars in a nice suit of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Paris was then a small town, on the west bank of that stream.  The town was mostly composed of wooden buildings, but as I entered the place, somewhat remote from other buildings, I noticed quite a large stone structure, upon one side of which I saw a large bonnet pictured.  In fact it was the picture of the bonnet that particularly attracted my attention to the house.  I passed it and continued my tramp down a slope to near the river, where I found a hotel, the "Travelers' Home."  I entered the house, and deposited the bundle with the landlady, who seemed to be the "man of the house."  She was, I should suppose from her appearance, about forty years old, short and florid, with a light complexion, and an immense amount of carrot-colored hair, that looked as though it and a comb had been strangers for months.  I judged her complexion more from the color of her hair than from the color of her face, as that was extremely streaked.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In receiving my pay from Falin, I had got a London one-pound note, and, boy like, rather to make a show than through fear that the bank would break before morning, I called for a glass of beer and got my note changed into silver, when I soon noticed that this action caused the garrulous woman to commence plying me with questions regarding my trip, and where I was going.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>She called on a couple of men, I think she called them James and John, and told them to "take that boy to bed."  It struck me as strange.  I took a glance at the two worthies and found them, in appearance, a couple of as well-defined cut-throats as it was ever my misfortune to have seen (in fact they were all foreigners, Irish or Scotch, I should think).  The men lit a lantern and told me to come with them.  I began to be frightened and rather hesitated; but one of them casually observed that they had lately moved there and their beds were not yet removed to that house, when I reluctantly followed them.  We proceeded along the road by which I had entered the town, to the large stone structure with the big bonnet painted on the outer wall, heretofore mentioned, which we entered.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The first room seemed to have been used as a barroom, although at the time it was wholly divested of furniture.  We crossed the room to a landing.  A door opened to the left of the landing, which revealed a large room which seemed to have been used as a dining-room; that was also unfurnished.  We stepped upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The two worthies retired to an adjoining room, which had a board partition between them and myself.  I pulled off my boots, took up the candle, and first examined the door to see if it could be fastened, but found nothing but a common latch on it.  Having heard of dead-falls and trap-doors, I next commenced an examination of the room, but found nothing unusual in the floor.  I next investigated my bed, to see if it stood on a trap, but nothing suspicious presented itself.  I then took a peep from my lofty roost out of the window, but it was far down to the hard street, and a leap from there would be attended with sure death.  I then returned to my bed and examined it to see if the bedstead contained a cord.  I found it did.  Then my next thought was to take it out and place the bedstead by the window, and tie the cord to it to aid my flight, if necessary; but pride and shame again carried the sway, and I resolved to go to bed and await results.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I had not so much as a penknife in case of necessity; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>So time passed on until nearly two o'clock, when I heard some person ascending the stairs.  The step came up--up--up.  I lay intently listening, most devoutly hoping that it would stop short of my room; but such was not the case.  On came the light-tread, until my door was quietly pushed open and a man entered the room with a bull's-eye lantern in his hand.  He was a man of about thirty years of age, well dressed in a business suit, and had nothing of the villainous appearance of the other two  He stopped at the door and turned his lantern until he threw the light full upon me.  He stood and looked steadily at me for a time that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>But I could tell, first by the step and then by the light that penetrated to my room through the crevices heretofore mentioned, that he had entered the room of my two first-named companions.  He remained there some little time, when I heard him descending the stairs, but could see that a light had been left burning in their room, which to me, in my affrighted state, was no good omen.  While I lay considering what to do, the downward step seemed to stop at the second landing, and apparently entered a room; and presently, from the same direction, I heard a kind of ticking sound which I could not describe until many years after, when I heard it repeated by water dropping on an uncarpeted floor from a table.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I now formed a resolution to attempt my escape from the den.  I think the light left burning in the room where the two men were had much to do with my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:determination.  I stepped quietly out of bed, put on my coat, vest, and hat, took my boots in my hand and moved towards the door, the room being quite light, as the full moon shone straight into the window.  And here was something that I have never been able to account for.  As I approached the door I noticed it was ajar, in fact, open about four inches.  I carefully pushed it open and saw something black beyond, coming clear unto the threshold.  I put out my foot and found it was a hole in the floor!  The thought flashed across me that I assuredly came through a hall before coming into the room.  But I seated myself on the door-sill and felt around with my feet for the stairs; but there were none, and this fact further increased my terror.  I thought I was fastened in; but, to my relief, on further examination, I found the door through which I had entered, shutting on the same jamb, and swinging the other way, closed, but not fastened.  I left the room, passed noiselessly through the hall and down the stairs through the old bar-room.  I found the outer door locked, but the key was in the door.  I soon passed out, slamming the door behind me.  Then I did some good, lively running for about a block, when I sat down, pulled on my boots, and made for the hotel.  No one can tell the joy I felt at my escape.  I went and rapped at the hotel door.  The landlord, whom I had not seen before, got up, let me in, and asked me what I wanted.  I told him I wanted to pay my bill and be going; that I heard the blacksmiths at work and thought it was time for me to be traveling.  He remarked that it was only between two and three o'clock, and that the ferryman would not be out for some time, and that I had better take a rug and lie down by the fire, and he would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I found my bundle, as per directions, apparently all right, excepting that a woman's stocking was protruding from it.  I pulled it out, threw it on the floor, and bade good-by to the "Travelers' Home."  I asked the ferryman what kind of a house they kept at the "Travelers' Home," and he said it had a bad reputation.  I then told him my story.  He simply remarked that he thought me in luck to get away as well as I did.  I gave him the facts just as they occurred, without comment.  Whether any reasonable explanation could be given to the appearance of things and the conduct of the parties, I do not know; but there is one thing I do know, and that is, that from the effects of that night's scare, no person can enter my room, even in his stocking feet, without awaking me.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>A PERILOUS VOYAGE AND ARRIVAL HOME.</P>
189.sgm:<P>ON leaving the ferry, I trudged along until I arrived at Hamilton, where I soon made arrangements with the captain of a schooner to work my passage (as cook) down to Prescott.  I went down in the forecastle, where the mate was shaking with the ague, and pulling off my coat (which contained my money in a side pocket) some change rolled out as I threw it upon a coil of ropes.  I replaced it and went to work, helping about loading the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>There were two "fresh water" sailors on board, who soon gave up and went below, and no threats or persuasions could get them upon deck.  Night came on and we were running under the bare poles without a rag of canvas.  Every man had a line around his middle and fastened to the mainmast.  The sea was constantly breaking over.  We had a deck load of flour, but the waves had carried away our bulwark 'midship, together with the deck loading; also my galley and stove.  At about ten o'clock at night I went to my berth, my hands having been all blistered and the blisters worn off to the bare meat.  I could not sleep, and it was with difficulty that I could keep myself in the berth; the wind had not abated its fury in the least.  The captain was swearing because he had not sea-room.  He and the mate and one sailor did all that men could dare and suffer; but about noon the second day the wind howled so that we could neither hear nor see anything save snow and sleet everywhere.  Ropes and shrouds were covered with ice, and the captain exclaimed, "D--n her, she will go to the bottom."</P>
189.sgm:<P>I had attempted to set the table once, but it was no go; the cloth would slide from the table, and about this time the blind light in the stern was burst in, and the lockers were all drenched, the water being knee deep in the cabin.  They got planks and spikes and temporarily stopped the water from coming in behind; but there was one thing that they protected, that was one jug of spirits.  They had that lashed to a berth and made frequent visits to it.  When the captain said the vessel would go to the bottom, they put her square before the wind and let her take her chances.  They dare not attempt to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We dropped down the St. Lawrence, and the next morning we lay off Prescott.  They hitched lines to the anchor, and we were compelled to pull the schooner ashore by the line (they called it working it in).  When we had landed I got my breakfast--some "hard-tack"--on board, and invested my ten cents in a passage to Ogdensburg, and from there I soon made my way down to Tibbits' place, six miles.  They were delighted to see me, and at once gave me work.  I worked there until I had earned sufficient money to take me home, when I continued my journey on foot to Norton Creek, where the family had removed.  When I joined them, and as soon as we could make preparations so to do, we all returned to Upper Canada.  For the next three years I worked by the month for the most of the time, doing a man's work and receiving from thirteen to fifteen dollars per month, after which I engaged with my oldest brother in a fishery business.  On what is known as Catfish Creek, or rather its mouth where it empties into Lake Erie, we ran one season and made several hundred dollars each.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>A TERRIBLE STORM, AND A NIGHT IN A FOREST.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I HAD one brother who had left home at early age, and from whom we had not heard for six or seven years.  At length we received a letter from a lady in Buffalo, stating that my brother was seriously afflicted with the hip complaint and in indigent circumstances; that she had interested herself on his behalf until she could hear from his friends.  The next day after receiving the letter, I was on my way to find my brother.  That was in the latter part of October, 1837.  I went to Buffalo, where I soon found him, and after compensating the lady for her trouble, I had him removed to a hotel until I could find some way of transporting him up the lake.  Finding a schooner that was going part way, and would land near the mouth of the Grand River, I determined to get my brother on board and take chances of getting him from there by land.  His condition was such that he could only be moved on a bed or stretcher.  Well, I got him on board in the forenoon, and we were to sail the next day.  The schooner lay at the wharf in Buffalo Creek; the weather for the time of year was calm and pleasant, a breeze being scarcely perceptible.  The sky was clear, the sun shone brightly, and everything looked fair for a prosperous trip.  But about two o'clock P.M. the water commenced rising in the creek, and a mighty tide seemed pouring in from Lake Erie; it soon crept up on Lighthouse Point, nearly covering the seawall, which at that time was but partially constructed, and the water in the creek raised until it was nearly up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We had an experienced captain on our little craft, who seemed to comprehend what the signs of the times predicted.  He ordered the moorings to be made more secure by stanchions, and as the water continued to rise he had several spars run down perpendicularly between the schooner and the wharf, and firmly lashed to the vessel above, so as, in case of emergency, to prevent its passing over the wharf; and this foresight saved us.  Presently the wind came on in fitful gusts constantly increasing in frequency and violence; and ere the sun was below the horizon a thick gloom and darkness pervaded everything, while a regular tornado was raging with such force that it was almost impossible for one to keep his feet even when supported by the stays of the vessel.  The waves seemed to be lifted by the fury of the wind from the surface of the boiling flood and dashed in spray upon surrounding objects, while on the land, church towers and building roofs were whirled through the air like feathers.  Ere darkness had closed in upon the scene, Buffalo Point had entirely disappeared beneath the flood, and the waves of Lake Erie rushed in upon the city.  The storm increased until midnight, carrying a general wreck and ruin with it, a perfect devastation marking its track.  From Buffalo Point there were eleven residences washed out, and as the water commenced receding, floated out of Buffalo Creek and down the Niagara Falls.  In these houses alone it was estimated that over sixty persons perished.  Eight or ten canal boats broke from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The storm began to lull about midnight and by morning had entirely abated, and at noon the lake had rocked itself to sleep.  There was just sufficient breeze to leave a smile on its silver lips.  Nor would you have supposed that such a passion as had raged in its breast during the night could ever have so distorted its placid brow.  But 'tis ever thus.  Deception is found everywhere, in nature as well as in art.  And frequently that which we most admire is the first to wound.  We loosed from our moorings, and, with a light breeze, made the best of our way for Port Dover, on the Canada shore, which place we reached the second day in the evening.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I tried to hire a conveyance to take my brother home, a distance of about fifty miles by the lake shore, but over seventy-five miles by the main road.  The roads were next to impassable for a team; the mud had frozen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I got started about ten o'clock in the forenoon, traveling some of the way by trail and sometimes by wagon road, through a new and sparsely settled country of dense forests and small clearings:  Along in the afternoon I fell in with an old pioneer of the country, who told me that I would arrive about night-fall at a certain small log-house, and that I must stay all night there, as that would be the last house and clearing for fourteen miles, and that there was no road but a very faint trail, as during the summer there was a beach upon which all the travel was turned, but which, during the fall, was washed away.  "But," I said, "perhaps he will not keep me."  His reply was, "He must keep you, for you could not make it in the night.  You would break your neck over a precipice, if nothing else."  I parted with the old man and continued my tramp, arriving at the log-hut, in a small clearing, just as the sun was setting.</P>
189.sgm:<P>It was clear, cold, and frosty.  I stepped to the door and asked the man for lodging for the night.  He replied that he could not keep me.  At that age I was very diffident.  I was about turning from the door when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>As I had no means of making a fire, I dared not lie down to wait for morning, but pursued my toilsome march.  Exhausted by fatigue and chilled by frost, I still traveled on until I came upon a stream about a hundred feet wide.  This brought me to a stand.  It was now, as near as I could judge, about midnight.  I crept along up the stream in hopes of finding it narrow, and perchance a log upon which I could cross.  But I could find nothing of the kind, and discovered that I must either wade or swim across.  I got hold of a strong pole, and feeling the bottom with it, waded in.  Fortunately I did not have to swim, but found it in the deepest place a little more than waist deep.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>After reaching the opposite shore I climbed a precipitous bank and continued my journey.  I found the woods a little more open, and consequently fewer obstructions.  But now the wolves set up such a howl, as though ten thousand devils had broken loose.  They seemed to be but a little distance from me.  (These wolves are of the large gray kind, but they seldom attack a man, unless in depth of winter, when the snow is deep and they are nearly starved.)  I continued to make my way as fast as the rough condition of the country and my exhausted strength would permit, for about two hours, when I came to another stream similar to the one already described.  I crossed it as before.  There was a small open flat on the west side of the stream, and looking down towards the lake I saw a light.  Oh, blessed sight!</P>
189.sgm:<P>I made my way down to the lake, where I found that there was a narrow beach and some men fishing.  They stared at me at first as though I were some apparition or goblin from the forest.  Their conduct was so strange that I was really afraid of them.  I merely asked them about what time of the night it was, and how far before I would come to a house.  They informed me that it was about two miles to a house, and about two o'clock at night.  I asked them if they would let me have a brand of fire, which they did.  I went on about half a mile, kindled a fire, upon which I piled a lot of driftwood, and stretched myself alongside of it in the sand, and was soon asleep.  I awoke about sunrise.  My fire had burned down, and I found myself very cold.  My clothes next to the fire were dry, but on the opposite side were frozen stiff.  I replenished my fire, thawed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>THE CANADIAN REBELLION OF 1837.</P>
189.sgm:<P>BEFORE leaving home in search of my brother Clark, I had enrolled myself as a minute-man, to turn out with the Patriot forces; or, in other words, in the rebellion against the British Government.  The arrest of Lount and Mathews at Toronto had forced the rebellion, and on the twelfth day of November, 1837, we were called out to form a company under Joshua Done to be known as the "Spartan Rangers."  We assembled at the village of Sparta, in the town of Yarmouth, where we organized, choosing Joshua Done as our captain, and at once commenced our march for Otter Creek (a village of Richmond).  Here we encamped for the night, and stationed our sentinels.  Of course we were but crudely armed, our arms consisting of rifles, shot guns, old muskets and pistols, knives, swords, and dirks.  We had no drill or discipline.  We were perfectly raw, and I do not believe that there was a man in the entire company who even understood the manual of arms.  Yet we were informed that we were marching out to meet an enemy drilled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>News came in during the night that the enemy had rallied quite a force and were tearing up the bridge on Otter Creek, and intended to meet us there in the morning.  We sent out some scouts, however, and a guard to protect the bridge.  The next morning we commenced our march, crossing the bridge without opposition, and had marched a couple of miles beyond it when we were fired upon from ambush.  A ball pretty well spent struck me in the muscles of the back, just grazing the spine.  The enemy had waited until we had passed, before firing.  I forgot my wound, and, with the others, rushed into the woods pell-mell, firing at the twenty-five or thirty fellows who had ambushed us.</P>
189.sgm:<P>When the skirmish was over I was the most delighted fellow you ever saw--my legs had not run away with me.  My wound proved not to be serious, and I continued my march the entire day.  At night we arrived at Norwich, where we met Doctor Duncombe and  his forces, who informed us that they were retreating before a superior enemy, led by Sir Allen McNabe; that we would move on to Dorchester Pines, and would there make a stand, where the enemy could not play upon us with their artillery.  We got some food, rested for an hour, and again took up our line of march.  We went through the pines, and encamped for the balance of the night at a little place called Sodom.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The next morning, when I awoke, our command had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The snow was about eight inches deep, hence it was desirable to take the road, and we accordingly took up our line of march for Durham Forge.  We had advanced but about three miles, when I saw the glitter of arms in advance of us, moving in our direction.  Evidently we had not been discovered, so we stepped outside of the road into the brush, and presently an armed squad passed by.  When they had passed out of sight, we again pursued our journey, and had made some ten or twelve miles when we arrived at Squire Dobie's.  The house stood close to the road, and as we passed the door out sprang three men, all with arms in hand, and exclaimed, "We know you, you are some of Duncombe's rebels.  Surrender or we will blow the tops of your heads off!"  In an instant both our rifles covered them.  I said, "But raise a muzzle and you are dead men."  They replied, "We will have you before you go a mile!"</P>
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189.sgm:<P>We pushed on and had advanced through alternate woods and fields for about three miles, when I heard a great clatter of hoofs behind us.  I turned and saw a squad of horsemen rapidly advancing upon us.  We immediately left the road, and as we were mounting the fence to take to the woods, they fired a volley at us, one of the bullets coming in very close contact with my skull, having just grazed my head and passed through my cap.  We discharged our pieces at them and took to the woods, I minus my cap, which had fallen on the wrong side of the fence.  Ben loaned me his handkerchief, which answered the double purpose of staunching the blood and making a covering for my head.  We found it would no longer answer to keep the road, so we steered through the forest for Otter Creek.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In the middle of the day the snow had thawed on the top, but when the sun went down, it had frozen such a crust that at each step it would break under foot and crack like the report of a pistol.  We took our course by the stars and continued our tramp until late in the night, when we came to a house which we entered, weapons in hand.  We aroused the family, whom we discovered to be loyalists, and demanded something to eat.  We got a cold lunch and warmed ourselves by a log fire.  The man exhibited the Queen's proclamation offering a free pardon to all who had been engaged in this "unnatural rebellion," and had not been guilty of arson or murder, if they would lay down their arms and return peaceably to their homes.  I took the proclamation, and we continued our journey, following a road which they said led to Richmond.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But we soon discovered that the road was patrolled, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Now we were satisfied that the place we saw above was on Talbot Street (a Government road running through the province), but what was the town?  If Richmond, we wanted to cross above it; if it was Troy or Almer, we wanted to cross below it.  At any rate we wanted to cross Talbot Street, as it runs east and west, and we were making south; and if we could get across the road and into the Quaker settlement, we would be safe.  Ben and I disagreed as to where we were.  While thus consulting, there was a general rush and clattering through the snow's crust and in a minute's time our grove was surrounded by a band of armed men far too numerous for us to cope with.  We saw at once that we would of necessity be compelled to surrender, so we immediately hid our arms and walked out.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>A PRISONER OF WAR.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I FOUND that I was acquainted with the militia captain who was in command, and on arriving at the hotel I found old John Burwell, a cowardly, pompous old Tory magistrate.  He raved, ranted, and charged, declaring that he never would lay down his sword until every radical was exterminated.  I was suffering very much, and succeeded in getting a bed, when I went to sleep and lay until about 9 o'clock in the morning.  I now found my wounds very much inflamed, and I was also tired out and hardly able to get up.  But Smith got some hot water and soap and to the best of his ability dressed my wounds.  That upon my head was a mere scratch, the bullet little more than cutting through the skin.</P>
189.sgm:<P>When my wounds were dressed I came down-stairs, where I found almost our entire command prisoners, having been picked up in attempting to make their way to their homes; and in fact many were arrested who had not turned out at all.  Among others were David Sturges, a merchant, and William Herrington, a tailor.  One had kicked old John Burwell, and the other had cowhided him.  But now it was Burwell's turn, for, as a cruel magistrate, and captain of the militia, he almost held the power of life and death in his hands so far as these men were concerned.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I got myself somewhat strengthened up, had procured a hat, and had improved my personal appearance by a wash.  When thus refreshed I took the Queen's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Simcoe jail was a new building, in fact the scaffolding was still up, and guards were stationed on the inside.  They gave me the name of Davey Crockett, and insisted that Tory bullets would not penetrate my hide.  Although a prisoner, and very young(having just entered my seventeenth year), from some cause, I know not what, these proscribed men seemed inclined to place confidence in me.  They came to me and explained everything; said their lives were worth nothing unless they could escape, and that they could not escape without assistance.  In return, I told them that they could depend upon me; that I would look around and see if any opportunity offered for their escape.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Now the room in which we were quartered was the court room, and from that, in the shape of an L, was a small room to be used as a jury room.  There was a low trestle-work, covered with boards, where we slept--some sleeping below on the floor, while others slept up on the boards, stretched out like a long table.  In looking out of the window I noticed that the scaffolding poles were still standing, with the planks forming the scaffold all intact.  But I found that the windows were solidly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I now notified Herrington and Sturges of my plan, which was as follows:  Blake was to get up a regular entertainment to attract the attention of the prisoners and guard while I went into the jury room to break the window, and prepare for their exit.  All worked like a charm, with one exception; there was a young fellow a little older than myself lying in the jury room, and I could not get rid of him; hence I had to make a confident of him.  Sturges was a large man and I was compelled to cut the munnion of the window to let him have the space of two lights.  So I got the young man to pound with his heels on the boards, while I broke the glass and cut the munnion.  When all was accomplished, in the midst of old man Blake's dancing, I gave them the wink, and in ten minutes they were safe out on the staging and slipping down the staging poles.</P>
189.sgm:<P>They went to the stable and stole their own horses and saddles, and rode them until they could go no farther, and then pressed others, on the plea that they were riding Queen's Express.  All that was necessary to prove their loyalty was to tie some red ribbon or red <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>When the fugitives left the jail, and while yet on the scaffolding, they advised "Davey Crockett" to accompany them.  I declined, thinking that as I was but a boy they would turn me out in a few days.  Delusive hope! the Tory magistrates called all the boys before them for examination in regard to the escape of their leaders.  I was examined among the others, and the most important query among the many was, Who aided Herrington and Sturges to escape?  It was evident from all the circumstances that they must have had inside aid, and unfortunately for little "Davey Crockett" the young man who pounded with his heels while "Davey" broke the glass, peached.</P>
189.sgm:<P>My friends had been mourning me as dead, as my cap had been shown to persons who knew it well, the parties who exhibited the bullet hole in the cap stating that a company had attempted to arrest me, but I had resisted to the last, and was shot through the head.  So when my friends received a letter from me, and learned that I was still alive, they came immediately and tendered bail for my release.  But it was no use; bail in my case was refused.  The charges stood thus:  I had, by force of arms, resisted arrest at Squire Dobie's; had again resisted in the pine woods; had fired upon the squad sent out to arrest me, and had aided and abetted the escape of David Sturges and William Herrington.  While all under the age of twenty-one years were to be discharged, the boy of sixteen was held a prisoner without bail.</P>
189.sgm:<P>This made a kind of hero of me in the eyes of my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>My condition was not different from evil-doers generally.  My reputation followed me and I was sent to the cells; and now a word regarding our treatment.  While cooped up in Simcoe jail we had a large-sized sheet-iron stove (a common heater) in our apartment for our sixty prisoners to cook their own rations upon, and one thin blanket at night, and this in the midst of a Canadian winter.  But this was comfortable when compared with our condition in the cells of London prison.  When I say the cells, of course I don't mean the cells proper.  Each cell was filled, but that was scarcely a beginning, as there were over six hundred prisoners in the castle.  Every hall was crowded full, and there were no blankets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>About this time occurred a circumstance that much added to my comfort.  One year before I had resided a short time in London, where I made the acquaintance of three ladies, sisters, one single and two married.  I made the acquaintance of the two elder sisters through the younger, as she and I had become acquainted and were on terms of mutual friendship.  They were all estimable ladies.  The eldest married a merchant named O'Brien, and the next one also married a merchant, by the name of Olvero Ladd, and my little friend had in the meantime married Samuel Parks; the jailer.  The Tories had also imprisoned Olvero Ladd, on suspicion of treason, and thus Mrs. Parks' attention was drawn to me.  She still proved to be a good and true friend, and as long as I could get the privilege of the hall I was all right, as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>THRILLING INCIDENTS OF PRISON LIFE.</P>
189.sgm:<P>THE authorities had now organized a Board of Examiners (we called it the "pecking machine"), which consisted of four magistrates and the lawyers, who sat every day and had prisoners brought before them for examination.  For nearly two weeks I was brought before the Board daily.  At first I attempted to play the fool, and would answer their questions just as it happened, or as thoughts would strike me, without rhyme or reason.  I continued this course for three or four days, when at last one of the commissioners spoke up and said, "Look here, young man, we have your history, and it is useless for you to assume to be a fool.  Your former operations give that the lie."</P>
189.sgm:<P>They continued to recall and dismiss me from day to day, but at length they changed their tactics, and patronizingly said to me:  "You are very young, and have doubtless been led into this by men that are now enjoying their liberty, while you are here lying in prison.  Now all we ask of you is to disclose the names of your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>At last I got out of patience, and turned upon them and said:  "Yes, I am very young, perhaps too young; for I have not lived long enough to learn to turn traitor to my friends.  And what I know, will never benefit you, for before I would betray one of my unfortunate companions, to use the language of another, "I would lie here until the vermin should carry me through the keyhole."  Upon this retort, one of the Board exclaimed, "Let that fellow go back where he came from."  I said, "Thank you, gentlemen; then I shall soon be in the State of New York."  "No," he exclaimed, "we mean to your room, and give us no more of your insolence, sir, or you will go to the cells."  I quietly asked, "Can you get me any lower than the cells?"  The reply was, "Remember this, your life depends upon your future conduct."  I said, "I have one consolation, however:  you are mean understrappers, and can neither take my life nor save it!"  They little knew what a boon they were conferring when they sent me to the cells, where I could get something fit to eat, from Mrs. Park's kitchen.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But the next time my friends came there was another tearful petition went before the commissioners to release me from the cells.  Their petition prevailed and I was again sent to my room.  By this time my wound had healed, and I was as lively and active as a cat--a tall, slender boy, height nearly six feet, and weight one hundred and thirty pounds.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We used to indulge in all kinds of athletic sports for exercise.  We had a regular caravan; each had the name <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Thus things ran along.  The prison became less crowded, many having been tried, and either convicted and banished to the penal colonies, hung, or acquitted.  Our food was so meager that had it not been for aid from friends, and the privilege of purchasing what we got by way of notions, it would scarcely have sustained life.  Each man was entitled to eight ounces of meat per day, and one pound of bread.  But contractors were as rascally then as now, and the meat was saved up for outsiders, while enormous bones were weighed out to the prisoners.  And as for bread, the stuff furnished us was a burlesque upon the name of bread.  All the wheat in Upper Canada in the fall of 1836, owing to the long-continued rains about harvest-time, had sprouted in the fields, not only that which was in stack, but also wheat standing in the fields.  Some of the sprouts were from one to two inches long.  After the rains were over, this grain was dried and threshed, generally for feed; but it was deemed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I remember on one occasion that we took a loaf of bread, broke it open and elongated it for about ten feet; then we tied a lot of bones together, decked them out with red flannel strings as evidence of their loyalty, and hung them from the window fronting a public square, where all might see them.  Among the more humane citizens, even of the Tory party, they created quite a sensation.  We claimed that it was unhealthful, and it was submitted to a Board of Physicians, who decided that the bread was perfectly healthful, but not fit to eat; that it might do for hogs to masticate, but not for men.  The effect was that we were served with a little better quality of bread.  Those who were able to purchase supplies did so, and those who had neither money nor friends were helped to a more bountiful supply by taking the rations of those who could purchase food.</P>
189.sgm:<P>And food was not the only thing that was purchased; they were in the habit of paying the turnkeys to smuggle in liquor, the effect of which finally resulted in a disastrous row.  One afternoon some of the prisoners sent out and had a twelve-quart pail full of whisky brought in instead of water, and before night some of them got pretty "mellow."  We had a violin in the room, and a very good violinist.  The music was started up, and dancing commenced, and everything was jubilant.  The dancing was continued until after nine o'clock at night, when they were notified to stop, but this they declined doing.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In a short time the janitor came up with a sergeant's guard, with guns and bayonets.  The prisoners instantly formed in front of the music, each man seizing a billet of wood.  The guns and bayonets were unwieldy in the room, so they were ordered out and in a few minutes the guards returned with their bayonets in their hands, in charge of a captain.  The prisoners again took their position, and the soldiers also formed in line, and the skirmish began.  Alexander Nealy, one of the prisoners, happened to be fronting the little English captain; he had an iron fire poker, which the captain ordered him to lay down.  Nealy refused and placed himself in an attitude of defense, when the captain made a pass with his sword and gave Nealy a very severe scalp wound.  Before the captain could recover his guard, Nealy dealt him a terrific blow on the head with the poker, which felled him like a beef.  Nealy sprang upon the captain like a tiger, and would have dispatched him had I not sprang in and interfered.  I had not drank any liquor, hence I was sober and did not take any hand in the row until my interference was necessary to save life.  The boys had driven the soldiers back to the prison entrance, but Sam Parks, the jailer, had got through the ranks and was making for the violin, when Bronger discovered his object.  They were both tall, powerful men; Parks prided himself on being the best man in the country, but he found his full match in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Hostilities ceased as by common consent.  They picked up the captain and helped him out, and when all was settled down they returned and arrested Bronger with his half of the fiddle (which he still retained), and a few others whom they recognized, including myself, although I was only acting to stop the row, as before stated; yet in the excitement I was mistaken for one of the active participants.  We were all shoved down into the cells, the most of us, in our shirt sleeves, left in the hall without bed or bedding, or clothes to keep us warm.  So the only thing we could do was to make night hideous, which we did to perfection, by hoots, yells, and howls.  Bronger fastened the fiddle strings to the fingerboard, stuck a jack-knife under them for a bridge, and with the bow made such a horrid noise that no one could sleep in the lower part of the prison.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In this situation we spent the night; but the next morning we were marched back to our room, without any attempt at further punishment.  I am of the opinion that they had come to the conclusion that they had exceeded their duty in thus assaulting the prisoners when there was no attempt to escape, and were therefore quite willing to let the matter rest.</P>
189.sgm:<P>When the prisoners were first incarcerated at London, the guards were all raw militia and were not at all acquainted with fire-arms, and through their awkwardness several guns had been discharged in the prison.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Every little while there would be new prisoners brought in, and we were always very anxious to hear from the outside world.  One day the turnkey of our room had informed us that several wounded prisoners were brought in from "Point O'Play," where there had been a severe battle on the ice (in which the British got the worst of the fight).  We were all anxious to communicate with them, but how?  At last some one suggested the bullethole through the plaster and floor.  I think our room was about twelve feet from floor to ceiling.  We had several pieces of four-foot lath brought from the upper part or garret of the building.  We sharpened one end of a lath, split the small end, and inserted a paper on which was written the words, "Ream out the hole;" then, by means of a high bench, we were enabled to stick the point of lath containing the paper through the jagged hole in the ceiling and upper floor.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The prisoners above readily took the hint, and with a knife enlarged the hole to the size of an ounce ball, which enabled us to roll a half sheet of paper around the stick and slip it up to them, which they could answer by running a dispatch back in the same manner.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>But that was not the full extent of our communication.  I suppose it will be understood that the turnkeys were stationed outside of our rooms, and when our friends would come to see us we would be called for by name (that is when a permit was granted, which was not always the case), and an officer would stand by to hear all that was said and see all that was done.  So it was but very seldom that anything could be slipped from one to the other.  But one time when my sister visited me, on bidding her adieu on her departure, I got her back turned towards the officer in charge, gave her a knowing look, and, as I took her hand, I slipped a little paper into it telling her that she could come and talk at any time through the little hole that we had drilled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>After that we would hear much that was occurring outside, and our friends could know all from the inside.  A dispatch received at the door would be immediately forwarded to the proper room and address, and an answer returned to the messenger.  For instance, John Doe, "House of Lords," East Room; Richard Roe, "House of Lords," or "House of Commons."  Ours, being below, was called the "House of Commons." that above, the "House of Lords."</P>
189.sgm:<P>Where I was located, in the "House of Commons," the room was about eighty feet long and about sixteen feet wide, with several windows about eighteen inches wide, with one single two-inch bar running up and down through the center.  In hours of idleness men must be thinking, and seeking some employment or amusement.  So, among other things, our boys made investigations in regard to moving the caps from off the window-sills.  We soon discovered that the lower ends of the bars were split in the center about six inches and then turned at right angles, forming a T reversed, the upper end being passed through the caps above and spiked down in the brickwork below with six-inch spikes, holes having been punched into the split ends of the irons for that purpose.  Then a notch having been sawed out of the window caps the size of the bolt, the cap was slipped back and nailed down, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In the room where I was quartered, there were two small fire-places, in which were wrought-iron fire-dogs, the ends of which had been burned off.  One day when we had one of the bars exposed by having the cap off, I took an andiron, placed the end of it in the notch of the bar, and getting a lever purchase, without difficulty raised the bar, the spike being quite easily drawn down from the brickwork.  When I moved the bar up a little they swung it into the room and it came right out.  Then we put it back just as it was before, and concealed our work; and in less than a week every bar in the room was loosened and left for some future occasion, but with very little prospect of ever being available to us for any purpose.  We were some twenty-five feet from the ground, and the walls being white would show every object that came in contact with them; besides, there was a sentinel at every angle of the building, and there being fifty angles, we were very well guarded.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But I must not forget to notice a little incident which occurred during my stay in the "House of Lords."  The British officers were in the habit of punishing the soldiers very severely for drunkenness, and of course <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>FRUITLESS EFFORTS TO ESCAPE.</P>
189.sgm:<P>AS time passed on the number of prisoners became so reduced by bail, death, trail, transportation, and removals to other prisons, that at last there were but nine left in our room.  We were known as the "old stock."  We had a guard who had been attending on us for a long time, and with some of its members we had struck up quite an acquaintance.  As on petition we were now permitted to have our outside door chained open nine inches for fresh air, we had an opportunity to converse freely.  I had become quite familiar with one of the guards, and in the course of conversation, on his inquiry, I told him my story.  He said it was a shame, and had he lived in the country he doubtless would be where I then was.  He was an Irishman and a Catholic, and the most of that class sympathized with us.  He remarked that if he could he would willingly leave the door open and let us walk out.  I caught at it.</P>
189.sgm:<P>It was a dark, cloudy day, with a drizzling rain falling.  I said, "You will be outside to-night on guard; it doubtless will be rainy and the sentries will be in their boxes; now, sir, here is a new English lever watch worth at least sixty dollars; you say you come on at midnight under our northeast window.  If you will be snugly stowed away in your sentry-box at one o'clock in the morning, and not discover us nor make an outcry, the watch is yours."  He readily acceded to the proposition.  I gave him the watch; we agreed upon everything, and I informed him that we would tear up blankets to make a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>At length the hour came.  I mounted on a jury table and stuck the blanket rope out of the window and commenced letting the end run down the white wall, when bang! went an old musket from below, the ball passing my breast and striking the face of the window-jamb, knocking off a lot of brick and mortar, which fell to the ground with a thud.  The cry then came, "Is he dead?"  The reply was, "Yes, the poor fellow is dead;" but they soon discovered that the falling body was but brick and mortar.  The whole command, apparently, came rushing up-stairs like a band of sheep, but after a little the excitement subsided, and the authorities entered our room to find us all lying under the jury tables "fast asleep."  But the tell-tale bar and blanket-rope lay on the top of the table.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The officers began cursing us for rebels and ordered us out.  We crept forth, rubbing our eyes.  They hastily counted us, but could make out but eight.  Where was the other?  The officer in command ordered the men to fire up the chimney, but the mouth of the chimney was so low, and the throat so small, that it was impossible to insert a gun at the required angle; but they unfixed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>They kept us a few days in the cells, when we were taken out and promoted to the "House of Lords," which by this time was almost deserted, and the few tenants already there, with our force, did not at all crowd the room.</P>
189.sgm:<P>There had been several attempts to rescue the prisoners, on the part of a lot of braggarts that ranged up and down the St. Clair River, boasting what they were going to do.  The Tories were really frightened, and were resolved that we should not be released.  So they excavated below the building in which we were confined, and deposited many barrels of powder, I do not know how many, but enough to send us to glory anyhow.  They covered a train to the barracks and gave public notice that if an attempt should be made to rescue us, they would fire the train and blow us all up.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I must say for a few days after this I was not anxious to be released; but as time rolled on, the news reached us that a large force had crossed into Canada and was advancing on London.  Scouts were sent out, but were afraid to go out of sight of the city.  They would retire to some secluded place and ride their horses until they would get them in a perfect foam; then come rushing in and report the rebels surrounding all sides of the town.  Another would come in and report them nearer.  At <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>During the excitement, Mrs. O'Brien came rushing into our room, and the moment the door was closed behind her, she commenced jumping up and down, clapped her hands and exclaimed,  "They are coming!  They are coming!  They are coming! and they dare not blow you up; I've heard them say so."  The truth of the matter was, that an unusual number of Indians had collected at Maldon, and the word went out that they were rebels, and as the report traveled, the number increased until it swelled to a prodigious army.  Mrs. O'Brien said to me, "I had a terrible time to reach you; I went to Sam Parks [he was her brother-in-law and the jailer], and he said that he dare not let me in, that I must go to the sheriff, Colonel Hamilton.  He said that times were so trouble-some that I must go to the commanding officer, Colonel Maitland; and he would not give his consent.  I then went back to Sam Parks, and told him that unless he let me in to see those poor prisoners I would make O'Brien commence a foreclosure suit against him in less time than twenty-four hours.  I did not like to do this," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Well, the imaginary army did not appear, and as there were no signs of the approach of the enemy, and a teamster having arrived with his team direct from Maldon, everybody commenced plying him with questions as to the position, number, and equipment of the rebel army.  The poor fellow was taken aback, and could not for a moment imagine what the people were after.  The "rebel army!" he had seen none.  There was no unusual excitement more than that a large number of Indians and squaws were holding one of their annual festivals near Maldon.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Thus the bubble had bursted and an investigation proved that the whole story had originated in the gathering of the Indians for the green-corn festival, and some shrewd, patriotic parties had spread the story of the invasion, until the people had been so scared that a handful of brave spirits, properly led, could have taken London.</P>
189.sgm:<P>About this time there was a great deal of nervousness and unrest in the country, owing to the excitement and rumors of invasion from the Patriot sympathizers on the American side of the line; and the Patriots were ready to make another move whenever a rallying point should be indicated.  The Scotch were all rebels, as we were called.  I had two uncles living on Westminster Street, six miles from London, and there were many staunch Patriots in the neighborhood; and, besides, my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In this connection I will introduce a very remarkable character, Mrs. Anna Burch.  She was my father's sister, and was, of course, my aunt.  At the time of the rebellion she was between thirty-five and forty years of age, but would not have been taken for more than thirty.  She was of a very fair complexion, with auburn hair, and coal-black eyes, and I thought her the prettiest woman I ever saw.  Her weight was probably about one hundred and twenty pounds; she was as agile as a cat, brave as a lion, and one of the finest female equestrians that I ever met.  She was, to all intents and purposes, a rebel spy.  She assumed the character of a doctress, rode from one end of Upper Canada to the other, had a very good idea of the use of herbs and simple medicines, and with an unusual amount of shrewdness and daring she mingled with all classes and complexions of political creeds.  Thus she managed to be in possession of much valuable information from both sides.  And what was more singular than all, she managed for several months to avoid suspicion.  She notified many a Patriot who was to be arrested, in time to allow him to escape, and in her labors in the cause she seemed to be almost ubiquitous, and always to be found when most needed.</P>
189.sgm:<P>One day, just before our attempt to escape, my aunt <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>On reading the letter which she had passed to me at the door, it notified me that on a certain day (I do not now remember the exact time), at three o'clock in the afternoon, Colonel Maitland, commanding the Thirty-second Regiment, who was then guarding London, would start on a march down the river to Delaware, and another command, with a large supply of military stores for London, would, by a night's forced march, reach London about six o'clock the next morning.  When Colonel Maitland should evacuate the town there would be but thirty raw recruits to guard the town from three o'clock in the afternoon until six o'clock the next morning; and if my uncle could be encouraged to sound his trumpet, assemble the Scotch and the little band of Patriots on Westminster Street, they could make a night attack, capture London, and release the prisoners.</P>
189.sgm:<P>It was a bold conception for the woman, but another plan struck me.  Oh! how I wished for my liberty, if but for twelve hours.  At this time the road leading from the east to London ran through what was known as Dorchester, or Buckwheat Pines.  The road the soldiers would have to travel passed through this pinery for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I noticed when I went up that the guards were changed, and that the militia had taken the place of the regulars.  It was not long until I saw the baggage wagons drive in.  The command was formed with the artillery in advance and marched out of town.  Oh, could I only escape, what might I not do for my adopted country!  I knew that in one hour or thereabouts the guard would be relieved.  The last sentinel was close to the trap that admitted us to the roof, and in my soft listing slippers I could walk close to the hole undiscovered, and might catch the countersign.  I resolved to make the attempt, and waited until I heard the relief coming long the hall, when I crept close to the hole and caught the countersign without the least trouble.  It was quite loudly and distinctly given.</P>
189.sgm:<P>One point was gained.  I had the countersign; now no time was to be lost in trying to use it to my advantage.  I waited till it was dark, when I walked boldly down the corridor and down the stairs until within twenty feet of the front door.  I could not see any sentinel.  I watched for about fifteen minutes, when I advanced towards the door, and when within six or eight feet of the door the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Had I succeeded in my efforts to escape, I would today have been able to tell a more brilliant story, or else I would not be in existence at all.  And this was my plan: As before stated, my uncles were at the head of some four hundred brave men.  All that was necessary to call them forth was a leader and a reasonable hope of success.  I should have made my way to my uncles' as fast as my legs could carry me; aroused the Scotch, took about fifty ax-men to the Buckwheat Pines and felled trees across the road, to make a barrier in front of the soldiers.  The road was cut out four rods wide, and the trees were very thick.  Then I would have cut trees on both sides of the road ready to fall, with drivers back to force them across the road.  Then I should have cut a barrier ready to fall in the rear to hem in the whole command; and when they should have been hemmed in by the barricades, the ax-men could have hurled the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We must have inevitably won an easy victory.  We could have marched into London the next morning, and taken it without firing a gun.  And such a victory as we could have won there, with the ammunition and supplies, would have given us the principal city, with vast military stores, and would have enabled us, with the forces we could command, to follow up Maitland and capture him and his army before they could reach Delaware, and before they would be aware of any force in their rear.  And I could not bring myself to believe but what some bold spirit would see and take advantage of the opportunity, until the next morning when I saw the troops come gallantly marching into London.  Poor aunt Anna had exerted her energies in vain, and I could not escape to reward her efforts.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>FROM PRISON TO HOSPITAL.--FINAL RELEASE.</P>
189.sgm:<P>ABOUT this time I was taken down with a fever that prevailed in the city, and which had at last reached the prison.  The physicians pronounced it bilious, inclined to typhus.  The last thing I remembered, for some time, was holding onto a broom handle, and the physician bleeding me; and the next thing I remembered was seeing my fellow-prisoners, with my mother and sister around me crying.  I thought to myself, I must be very sick, and will probably die, but I will be out of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Being acquainted in London, I tried to make out what part of town they were taking me to.  Then all was again a blank, until one day I saw Doctor Moor by my side, with a snuff-box in his hand, as usual.  He said, "Well, young man, you have cheated the devil this time."  I had previously been acquainted with him.  A year or more before this, while he was courting Prie t Cronin's daughter, and they were engaged to be married, on one of his calls she attempted to talk French to him and made a terrible blunder, which caused an estrangement between them for some months.  The matter was finally explained to his satisfaction, a reconciliation ensued, and they were married.  I had heard the joke, and when he told me that I had "cheated the devil this time," I thrust his wife's French at him.  He appeared startled, stepped back, and exclaimed, "Who the devil are you?"  My mother and sister seemed frightened at the recognition, but the joke passed off, and after the doctor had left his directions and departed, I again sank away.  My sister told me that an hour after the doctor had gone, I commenced shaking so violently that she could hardly hold me on the bed.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I have neglected to mention that on removal from the prison I was taken to the hospital, where I was confined.  The doctor, on leaving, promised to return in an hour, and when he did so, he found me in the condition referred to.  He said that was the turning point in my disease.  When the shaking had subsided, I recovered, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I was improving very fast, and had a good appetite.  I would cry for food, and my sister would cry because she dare not let me have it.  I drew my rations of beef, and as I could not eat it, it was hung up near the fire-place to dry; and while my attendants were in another room, I raised myself up, took hold of the bedstead, and tried to pull myself up so I could reach the beef.  But as I got partially straightened up, I lost my balance and down I came, measuring my length on the hard, uncarpeted floor.  As I was but a mere skeleton, the skin was peeled from my bones in several places.  My mother and sister rushed out, gathered me up, and put me to bed again, where I lay for several days pretty quietly, until I got over my bruises, and had from time to time been helped up to a chair by the fire.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>But one morning they left me sitting in a chair while they ate breakfast in another room.  The meat that still hung above my head was too tempting for me, and I stuck my fingers through a knot-hole in the lath where the plaster was off and pulled myself up.  But not yet being strong enough to steady myself, I lost my balance and away I went.  There were no banisters around the well-hole of the stairway, and in my efforts to recover my lost balance I got so near the opening that when I fell, I went thumping and bumping to the bottom.  The Irish sentinel exclaimed, "And what are ye doin' there?"  I answered, "Trying to break jail!"  By that time my attendants were at the head of the stairs nearly frightened out of their wits.  The sentinel helped them carry me to bed, and I was not trusted alone again for a long time.</P>
189.sgm:<P>When I had sufficiently recovered to walk about and begin to think, I discovered that my mind was almost a blank, and things came back to me quite tardily.  I was also left with a severe cough.  In fact, the doctor told my sister, who was still with me, that though I had weathered that attack, I could not live a year--that I would die of consumption.  But I got so much better that the authorities began talking of sending me back to prison.  I did not want to go back, and commenced thinking once more of escape, this time, by dressing up in my mother's clothes and passing out before the sentry in the evening.  Now my mother was called a tall woman, but when I got on one of her dresses my long spindle-shanks stuck through a foot, and I soon discovered that the plan would not work, and I was forced to abandon it.  I had been indicted for high <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>It was not more than a month, however, after my return from the hospital until we received our sentence.  It was rather a peculiar sentence, too, being a decree of voluntary banishment.  This was judgment and sentence without a trial; but it was a kind of sentence by agreement, as each prisoner was asked the question, "Do you accept the sentence?"  When it came to me, and the question was asked with all solemnity, I answered, "Would a man refuse to be banished from hell to heaven?"  Our final sentence was that if caught in Her Majesty's dominion after the expiration of three days we were to be taken as felons and suffer death.  The doors were then opened, and we were permitted to pass out without a guard.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I had about two dollars in my pocket, and my friends lived in the opposite direction from which to go to get out of the country.  Mrs. Parks was present, and I bade her good-by.  Mrs. O'Brien insisted that I should go home with her, which was but a short distance, and get a good meal before starting on my journey, and I readily complied.  She gave me a good dinner, with all the port wine I dared drink, and offered to give me money, but I was too proud to take it.  I thanked her kindly, and in taking leave of her she said, "Lewis, something tells me that you will one day return in triumph; and if you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We had ninety miles to make on foot to get out of the country, and I think that the Tories devoutly hoped we would fail.  I fell behind, and at dusk of evening I could just discern my companions in the dim distance.  They had found a hotel, and I came up, dragging my limbs after me.  I got some refreshment and stretched myself on the soft side of a long bench, where I spent the night.  I awoke the next morning a little sore, but on the whole much refreshed.  We got some breakfast and about seven o"clock we again started on our journey.  That day I kept up with my companions, walking over thirty miles.  We passed the second night at a kind of wayside hotel, having about thirty miles to go the next day to reach the St. Clair River.  The exercise, bracing air, and good food, had temporarily revived me, and the third day I was one of the leaders in the march, and when we reached the river bank our companions were just coming in sight, trudging along, almost tired out.  The last day we had suffered terribly for want of water, and at one time I was nearly blind from thirst.  But near the road, in a swale where a tree had been uprooted, there was a muddy pool filled with midges, tadpoles, and lots of little red bugs; from this pool I took a refreshing drink, and was thankful for my good fortune in finding it.  As soon as all the company had arrived on the bank of the river, a boat was secured, we exhibited our passes, and in an hour we were at Black River in Michigan, I having borrowed eight cents to pay my passage.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>EXPERIENCES IN MICHIGAN AND ILLINOIS.</P>
189.sgm:<P>THERE was a good deal of sympathy expressed for the poor Patriots, who had been released from a Canadian prison, and who had been banished from the Canadas, and their property confiscated.  There were constant arrivals, from Black River to Grand Rapids, of persons seeking employment on the railroad, but there was an offer of work to our boys in preference to all others.  As for me, I looked like the wandering "ghost of Colitus," and a single glance would have convinced the most casual observer that I could not go into the forest and wield the ax or the pick and shovel.  But the contractor was very kind, and gave me employment as boss of a job of grubbing and clearing for the laying of the track through the Black River Swamp.  My condition at this time was such that I could not sleep lying down, but had to assume a half-reclining and half-sitting position, coughing all night.  The people where my washing was done remarked that the poor fellow would not come for his washing many times more.</P>
189.sgm:<P>There was a garrison of United States troops close by, and there was considerable talk of war with England on account of the burning of the steamer <HI REND="italics">Caroline</HI>
189.sgm:; and I thought if I could only enlist, and live until we could attack the British forces, I would sell my life as dearly as possible, and die content.  I tried to enlist, but the examining physician told me that I had better seek a hospital rather than the barracks.  As they would not receive me, I returned to our camp and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>One day shortly after this occurrence, the men cut a large pine tree, at the heart of which there appeared a kind of acid.  It bubbled up out of the center of the stump as clear as spring water, and as sharp as the strongest vinegar.  Among others, I tasted it, and it seemed to go right to the affected part, throwing me into the most violent paroxysms of coughing.  With me it was anything that would kill or cure, and I had the boys scallop out the stump so as to hold the liquid, which I continued to use as a constant drink.  And about the same time I commenced chewing spikenard root, which grew there in abundance.  I also collected hemlock gum and made plasters, which I applied externally to the region of the pains.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I continued this treatment about two weeks, and felt the beneficial effects very sensibly.  When we struck another pine producing a like acid, I continued to drink it, still using the spikenard root, and applying the hemlock plasters.  At the end of a month I was, so to speak, a new man.  I had had a little property at Jamestown, in Canada, which was confiscated, and I was solely dependent on my wages for a living.  But as soon as my family heard of my whereabouts, they disposed of their property and left the country, emigrating to Illinois.  My brother called for me where I was at work, and I joined them, and we all reached Chicago, Illinois, late in the fall of 1838.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The Michigan canal was then in course of construction from Chicago to La Salle, where we all found employment; but as my health improved, my military <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Chicago at that time did not contain over fifteen hundred inhabitants; in fact, it was but a village.  There was an arsenal with a few hundred small arms and two six-pound brass cannons, with some fixed ammunition, but not enough to carry out my plans, which were as follows: I would first arm and equip the men comprising the expedition, and also provide a supply with which to arm others after landing in Canada.  I intended to lease a good large steamer, ship my command, and land them at Maldon, on the Canada shore; then commence a rapid march to the interior, sweeping through the settled parts of the country, compel every able-bodied man to join our standard, forage on the country for supplies, and leave nothing in our rear to oppose us.  My march was to be so rapid as to give no time for plotting treason in the ranks, and but little time to array forces in front.  Expecting by the time I reached London, Canada West, that I would have at least ten thousand men, I intended to garrison all captured towns with them and men loyal to our cause; for I was confident that at least two-thirds of the inhabitants of the entire country would be in sympathy with the move.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>But it is useless to give the plans of an exploded expedition in detail; suffice it to say it was my intention to sweep the Canadas, manufacturing my broom from their own timber.  But while corresponding with parties at Detroit regarding arms and munitions of war at that place, the United States Marshal, one morning, tapped me on the shoulder and said, "Young man, several of the contractors on the canal have been making complaints against you, charging you with the intention of invading Canada.  These men are acting from interested motives, as in case you carried out your scheme it would leave their jobs without hands.  I am frank to admit that I sympathize with your cause, but unless you disband and abandon the expedition I shall be compelled to arrest you; so you had better take warning in time to avoid trouble."  I remonstrated with him, and asked him if he could not take a journey, or volunteer and go with us; but he declined all overtures, saying, "I will do better than that, I will keep you all from getting your throats cut."</P>
189.sgm:<P>Through the vigilance of the contractors and the marshal, our expedition came to an end.  I worked that fall and winter on the canal, and the next spring drifted up to Warrenville, Du Page County, Illinois, where I remained some time with Harvey T. Wilson, who was very kind to me, and put me on track of some vacant Government land, of which I located one hundred and sixty acres.  I gave my brother-in-law an equal interest in the land, and, being a good sawyer, my services were soon called into requisition at Garey's sawmill, at thirty dollars a month.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I worked there several months, during which time I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>At first my mare found good footing, the water only coming half way up her sides, and I was congratulating myself that it was not much of a feat, notwithstanding all the cautions I had received.  But suddenly the noble animal dropped into the boiling current and went under, head and ears; however, she soon came to the surface, and gallantly stemmed the flood with her ears and eyes out of water.  The rushing current carried us rapidly down stream, but she continued to swim for the opposite shore; yet I could see that she was beginning to fail, that the effort was too much for her, and I was seriously thinking of throwing myself off from her back when she struck bottom.  About this time I saw an old gentleman by the name of Hill running down to the river for his boat.  The mare continued to wade toward the shore, which was yet at a considerable distance; but having gone some forty or fifty yards, down she went again and had to swim for dear life.  I now saw that there was but one show for her or me, so I slid off <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The next afternoon I went back home, but not by the same road; I went by way of Elgin.  I resumed my work at Garey's; the thaw continued, the ice was broken, and we expected, with the force of the ice and the immense flood of water rushing upon the mill-dam, that the dam must give way, although we were making almost superhuman efforts to save it.  Several of the hands, myself among them, had been all day on the lookout, and wherever a hole was discovered we would stuff in straw and dirt.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Night came on and I remained with a lantern to watch for breaks in the dam.  Next to the mill there was a large bulkhead, and fifty feet from that, out near the middle of the dam, was a second bulkhead, and between the two there was a low place, about four feet lower than the rest of the dam, which was called the "roll-way."  Over this roll-way, where the surplus water escaped over the dam, was extended a small log, about eighteen inches at the butt, running to about six inches at the top.  We used to walk this timber to get from the mill to the middle of the dam, which was the highest part and was above water, making a little island; and as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>All on shore had been aware of my danger for hours.  I could not hear anything that was said on the shore, but they were gesticulating violently and beckoning with lights for me to cross the log.  But I felt that it was impossible for me to accomplish the feat.  But I must do something, and that seeming to be the only chance, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>My little island in the middle of the dam was constantly growing less as the flood arose.  But there was one hope still left, and I lost no time in trying to take advantage of it.  The water was waist deep where it was pouring over the dam on the west side.  I took a long pole and ran it down in the water on the upper side of the dam, and commenced wading and feeling with my feet for the edge of the plank, steadying myself with the pole, and in this way I waded some fifteen rods to the west shore, where I arrived without a dry thread on me, and chilling from the icy coldness of the water.  I was safe from the perils of the flood, but there was no house or habitation on that side of the stream within two miles.</P>
189.sgm:<P>What was to be done?  I dare not attempt to reach a house on that side, and I concluded to try to cross the stream.  There was a bridge below the mill, but covered at this time with three or four feet of water.  I took my pole and wading in to the approach of the bridge, found that the planking had been all floated off, but the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The next spring, that of 1839, I went over to St. Charles, on Fox River, on a fishing excursion, and there met an old gentleman by the name of Calvin Ward.  He wanted to hire a man to work as a common laborer, offering fair wages.  I soon struck up a bargain and went to work for him, continuing about three months, when the old gentleman wanted me to cut prairie hay for him and in payment he would sell me town lots.  I made another agreement with him and commenced cutting hay.  At this I made about five dollars a day, and soon found myself the owner of thirteen town lots in St. Charles.  It was a growing little town, and in one year my lots had quadrupled in value.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In the meantime I had made the acquaintance of a young lady by the name of Fisk, and married her in the fall of 1840.  Fisk was a native of Massachusetts, and had come out to the West for the purpose of locating in the country, and Christianizing the heathen, as well as improving his worldly condition; and, to use his own language, he thought he "would find the people poor, ignorant, and honest."  He said he "found them poor enough, and ignorant enough, but could not boast of their honesty."  He brought five thousand dollars out with him, and the poor, ignorant, and honest inhabitants of the West had got it all from him, and all that he had to show for it was a settler's claim to a beautiful piece of prairie land about two miles east of St. Charles.  However, his father was a wealthy man and he was heir expectant.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>We soon arranged matters; I was to go onto the farm, extinguish a small lien upon it, and, when the land came into market, pay the Government and then we would own the place in equal shares.  I took possession of the farm, and Deacon Fisk went back East to visit his parents.  I cleared the indebtedness from the farm and deeded it, and at the end of a year the deacon returned, but not wishing to farm it he settled in Geneva, selling me his interest in the place.</P>
189.sgm:<P>At this time money was very scarce in Illinois, and nearly all business transaction was in trade.  It happened that I turned out to be a pretty good trader, and at the end of the year I owned my prairie farm and about eighty acres of timber land situated on a small creek, when I took it into my head to erect a saw-mill on the creek, to the infinite mirth of my neighbors generally.  And many of my sympathizing friends remonstrated against my folly, telling me that it was a pity that I should squander my property, for which I had struggled so hard, on so foolish a project.  Notwithstanding the many cautions, I struggled on, completed my mill, and made it a paying institution; and instead of its ruining me, I paid for it in the first four months run.</P>
189.sgm:<P>My wife was a little, fragile woman, and sick much of the time.  She was an only child, and her mother insisted on her remaining with her most of the time, which broke me up very much--so much that in fact I was in a worse condition than I would have been if I had had no wife at all.  I was leading a miserable existence, when circumstances occurred which for a time changed my whole course of life.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR.</P>
189.sgm:<P>ALL will remember, on the declaration of war by the United States against Mexico, how nobly the State of Illinois responded to that call.  Thousands of her citizens left their various occupations and offered their services to maintain the honor of their country; and this outburst of patriotism was not confined to class or creed; the artisan, mechanic, laborer, and professional man alike, rushed to the field to swell the ranks of our citizen soldiery; and at very short notice six regiments marched to the seat of war, from that State.  Kane County soon furnished her company, which was fortunate enough to be received as Company I, Twenty-second Illinois Volunteers; term of enlistment, during the war.  I say fortunate, for many companies were too late to be permitted to join in that struggle.  I raised the company referred to, and having been promised the position of quartermaster, I refused to be elected captain, from which a suspicion arose among my men that I did not intend to accompany them to Mexico.  I assured them that I would go if they had to carry me on a litter.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We took steamer at St. Louis for New Orleans, and <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
189.sgm: I was taken down with the measles.  A person could not well imagine a more uncomfortable spot to encounter such an enemy, crowded as we were between the decks of a Mississippi steamer, in the month of July, in that climate; and when we reached Carlton, seven miles above New Orleans, where we were to await a ship for our transportation, the measles had broken out <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I remonstrated, but in vain; he was inexorable, and I ordered the driver to take me to the next, and only other hotel in the place.  There, after informing the landlord of my true condition, I was taken in, and after being seated in my room I rang for a pitcher of ice water, when not the ice water, but the landlord put in an appearance and informed me that it would be impossible for him to keep me in his house, for if he should do so his guests would all leave him; this information, sick as I was, very much irritated me.  I asked the landlord if there was any military hospital in the place.  He replied in the negative.  I then asked him if there was any officer of the quartermaster department there.  He informed me that he believed there was a quartermaster-sergeant there.  I requested that he be sent to me.  He soon called.  I related to him the condition of things, and asked if there were any arrangements made by the quartermaster department for the accommodation of the sick.  He told me that a building had been rented for that purpose, and a few cots provided--nothing more.  I informed him that I was acting quartermaster of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>When we arrived at the place I threw myself down on a cot, and that was the last I remembered for about eight days.  On my returning to consciousness I was informed that a lady living near the place had been my nurse, and gave me all the attention that could have been bestowed on me at my own home.  With careful nursing and the attention of our surgeon, Wm. B. Whitesides, and aided by youth and an excellent constitution, I was enabled to weather the blast.  When very weak and scarcely able to stand alone, I was informed that a ship had arrived to transport us to the seat of war, and that our place of destination was Tampico; but to my chargrin, I learned that the doctor had declared that it would be wholly impossible for me to stand the sea voyage, and that the colonel had ordered me to remain in the hospital until I had recovered my health sufficiently to stand the trip.</P>
189.sgm:<P>When I was informed of that fact I was very much disheartened, and resolved to go at all risk.  I accordingly sent for my colonel and the surgeon, and begged of the colonel to countermand his order.  He said he had acted with a view to my good, but if I insisted on going he had no objections.  The doctor (I suppose for my consolation) informed me that if I made the attempt they would have to bury me at sea.  I could not see it in that light, but told the doctor that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We had a pleasant voyage, in due time arriving at Tampico, which lies on the north side of the Tampico River, about six miles from its mouth, in the State of Tamaulipas.  This has the reputation of being the most sickly place in the world.  Yellow fever and black vomito sweep off its hundreds yearly.  The place is almost surrounded by stagnant pools and lagunas.  On our arrival I was not only alive, but was able to walk the decks of the vessel.  We had no fighting at this place.  Captain Chase was the American consul, and on the first arrival of the American ships of war, Mrs. Chase hoisted the stars and stripes at their residence, and Tampico surrendered at discretion.  I was soon domiciled at the St. Charles Hotel, kept by Mexicans, of course.  They spoke no English, and I could not speak a word of Spanish; the consequence was that I would call for one thing and they would bring me another; but we managed to get along for three or four days, while my quartermaster-sergeant, under the supervision of Dr. Whitesides, was perfecting our hospital arrangements.</P>
189.sgm:<P>About this time the doctor called in to see me, and announced the fact that they had so far progressed as to get a building; had supplied the more urgent necessities <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The morning after my interview, Mr. Chase, hospital steward, came down to the hotel to see me; I requested  him to allow me to lean on his arm and I would attempt to go with him to the hospital.  He consented, and when arriving there I did not feel exhausted, and asked him to walk along with me and we would try and procure a glass of strong beer or ale, as I felt somewhat thirsty.  We had not advanced far before I noticed, sitting in well-furnished apartments, an elderly man of rather light complexion, who, as I thought from his appearance, was not a Mexican, and perhaps could speak our language.  Being on the sick list I was attired in citizen clothes, and looking in sharply at the old gentleman, he arose and in good English asked what I wanted.  At that I turned in towards his door and infomed him that I would prefer a glass of strong beer or ale to anything else at that time.  He remarked, "Pretty well, that a British consul should be called on so early Sunday morning for beer."  I quietly informed him that if he had not got it, I should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Time rolled on; I had recovered my health, and as my quartermaster duties were light and many of our officers were then sick, I volunteered to do duty in the lines; and as I was riding my rounds as officer of the day near the western defense of Tampico, one evening, I fell in with the British consul.  He seemed very affable, and among other things asked to what command I belonged.  I informed him that I belonged to the Illinois regiment, when he observed, "I have a good joke to tell you of one of those green 'suckers.'"  He then proceeded to narrate the beer story, stating that he though to awe the man by informing him who he was, but observed that the cool answer of the fellow amused him.  I asked him if he would know that green `sucker' were he to meet him again.  He said, "No; how should I know him when there are so many calling on me every day for something?"  I raised my cap and said, "Behold in your humble servant the green `sucker' that called on you for the beer."  He seemed somewhat surprised, and then added, "Why didn't you tell me who you were?  I had no beer, but I possessed some very nice wine and good old brandy," and at his earnest solicitation I was induced to accompany him home to take the proof of his assertion, when we made a night of it.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I though no more of the matter until the next Saturday, when a paragraph appeared in the Tampico <HI REND="italics">Sentinel</HI>
189.sgm: giving the anecdote of the green "sucker" calling on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Colonel Gates, with brevet rank of brigadier-general, was military governor at Tampico, and commander of the forces stationed at that place, being about two thousand five hundred in all; and by his orders our regiment, or rather battalion (as one battalion of our regiment was ordered to join General Scott), was stationed on the north side of the city, when we first began to enjoy the beauties of camp life.  We were quartered in our tents, and compelled by orders of the commander to maintain a guard around our encampment, making a regular detail of about thirty men.  Owing to the great number sick, and the small numerical force, together with the extreme heat, the duties were very exhausting and laborious, and our colonel had made several efforts to obtain an order reducing or entirely abolishing the guard, but without success.  After things had continued in this state from four to six weeks, an occurrence took place which entirely relieved us of this guard duty; it happened thus:  We had enlisted a man by the name of Tubs, who was of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The general replied, "A friend."  Tubs said, "Advance and give the countersign!"  The general replied, "I am General Gates, commander of this post."  Tubs again ordered him to stand.  The general was furious, and made a move as though he would force the guard, and again reiterated, "I tell you, I am General Gates, commander of this post!"  When click, click, went the old musket, and Tubs said, "Advance a step, and I will blow your head off!  I don't know General Gates, commander of this post, but I know I am commander here."  The general was compelled to stand; trembling with rage, he said "Call the sergeant of the guard!"  Tubs replied, "I don't want the sergeant of the guard, and do you remain where you are until the relief comes; and if you make any attempt at escape I will shoot you!"  He then kept the old general frothing and swearing an hour and a half until the relief came, when Tubs remarked to the sergeant, "I have a prisoner there who could not give the countersign; he says he is General Gates, commander of this post, but any man could say that."  The sergeant advanced to the general, saluting him.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The colonel apologized and said it was impossible for the sentry to know him.  The general swore vengeance against poor Tubs, and declared he would have him severely punished.  He then turned to Colonel Hicks and said, "Remove this guard; it is of no earthly benefit, and is becoming a nuisance."  The order was promptly obeyed; Tubs was never punished, but was drunk as a lord the next three days, the boys furnishing all the liquor he could drink.  His dissolute course at last proved too much for his organization, and in about two months after the occurrence referred to, the boys fired a farewell shot over his grave, and we left him to take his final sleep in the lowlands of Mexico.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Things began to assume shape; we had strengthened the western defenses of the city by erecting strong field batteries commanding commanding the Altamira road on the north and the Panuco River, above Tampico, on the south side, the two principal points from which an attack could be made from the interior.  On the north side of the river and to protect us from attack from Pueblo Viejo or Tampico el Alto, we had erected heavy batteries below or east of the city in such a manner as to protect the east and south.  This measure was deemed highly essential as we were informed that there was a heavy force of Mexicans and Indians stationed at Tampico el Alto meditating a descent upon Tampico.  This information <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>But all commands have their exceptions; we had our awkward squad, and some had been sick ever since landing in the country having had no opportunity to improve as soldiers.  I found a laughable case in our command; he was an Irishman belonging to Company A.  Pat had been in the hospital most of the time since our arrival in Mexico, but had recovered and was reported for duty.  The first time he mounted guard, being wholly ignorant of the duties or responsibilities of his position, or the penalties attached thereto, he comfortably seated himself beneath a shade and went to sleep.  The relief, it appears, found him in that condition, stole his gun, awakened him, and placed him under arrest; but finding him so wholly ignorant of the consequences of his act, the officers of our command concluded not to prefer charges against him.  His captain gave him a severe reprimand, and assured him that if he was ever again found asleep at his post, or even allowed any one to get possession of his gun, he would certainly be shot.</P>
189.sgm:<P>One night, not long after Pat received his reprimand, I was on duty as officer of the day, and Lieutenant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>While speaking of different characters, perhaps it would not be out of place to give a passing notice to our New Orleans recruit.  At Carlton, a quite boyish and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>IN writing this memoir it is not my intention to reproduce the written history of the war between the United States and the Republic of Mexico, nor any part of it; but merely to refer to scenes in which I was the principal actor, or which came under my immediate notice.  Being so intimately connected with self, it presents an appearance of egotism that I most keenly feel, but cannot avoid; hence I hope those who may think it worth their while to trace me through our campaign <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In a previous chapter I referred to Tampico as being the most sickly place in the world; but that is not all I have to complain of.  There is scarcely anything that can affict humanity but what is found there.  In the first place there are alligators of enormous size; they line the banks of every stream and bayou; land crabs are on every side and around you; lizards and swifts run before you in armies of thousands, and when you are seated they are running over you in all directions.  They run over your food, your bed, and every other place; in fact, they are literally your bosom companions; while the mosquitoes and gnats are inhaled at every respiration; wood-ticks of several different kinds will attach themselves to your person, and serve your very badly; the jigger is a perfect bore, of which I ofttimes had the most painful evidence; and centipedes were our frequent bed-fellows, but they were small and their bite not fatal, though very painful; the tarantulas are there, not numerous, but very deadly in their sting; these and the scorpions are, of all the poisonous insects, the most dreaded by the natives.  To protect us against the mosquitoes, Government issued single mosquito-bars to the men; each was furnished with four pins, one at each corner; the pins were stuck into the ground and sufficiently raised to allow a man to lie under it, and the flaps on both sides would lie on the ground; this did very well for mosquitoes, land crabs, and lizards, but it was no protection against gnats.</P>
189.sgm:<P>After we had been stationed at Tampico about two months, I became very bilious, and was attacked with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The first day I rode along the avenue in a most lovely soft twilight, entirely shut out from the sun, in one unbroken mass of chaparral or jungle, I should suppose about five miles; then I returned to camp and related my adventures, and we all speculated over the strange tunnel through the dense vegetable mass; but I had as yet formed no conception of its use, and my curiosity was at flood tide.  I was resolved to further prospect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Not having seen anything larger than a lizard in all my ride, I turned my horse's head once more towards the camp.  I had retraced my steps about four or five miles, when I came to one of those little paths closed by a dry bush, which nearly concealed it.  I made up my mind to venture on an exploration of its mystery.  Accordingly I hitched my horse and removed the obstacle.  Following the little trail, I had advanced about one hundred yards, when all of a sudden I emerged into an open space or clearing, and was surprised to see before me an adobe house,  out-sheds, etc., and a field of about two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:acres under a high state of cultivation.  There were nice corn, sweet potatoes, beans melons, etc.  A large blood-hound was in sight, but he was chained; he barked, growled, and made a desperate effort to get at me; his noisy demonstrations brought a man out of the house, who was, as near as I could guess, about fifty years of age, and to all appearances much more intellectual and fairer that the general race of Mexicans.  He was unarmed and seemed friendly; I asked him by motions and imperfect Spanish for a drink of water; he got a gourd, and, stepping to a well, drew the water with an earthen bucket, having a hole on each side, in which a rope was fixed as a bail.  I noticed that the well was about twelve feet deep, and the water seemed purer than that which we generally got at Tampico.  He maintained a gentlemanly but dignified demeanor, and I could see that his astonishment was equal to my own.  I returned to my horse and made my way home to camp, and again reported.     After this I daily prosecuted my chaparral rides alone, as before, as none seemed to care for such adventures.  I not only went over my old grounds, but followed up the newly discovered tunnel in an easterly direction until I came out into open ground at Altamira, fourteen miles from Tampico, and afterwards followed the other branch in an easterly direction until I came out at the pilot station at the mouth of the Tampico River, on the Gulf of Mexico; but it was much farther than to reach the same point by the regular Tampico road; however, it was so much cooler and pleasanter than riding in the the hot sun that it became almost my daily resort while riding for my health.  I now began to prospect my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:footpaths more thoroughly, and I found quite a numerous settlement a short distance back in the chaparral from the main tunnel or road; but after prosecuting this source of amusement for some time, I had occasion to cut it short.  I had from time to time penetrated the small foot-paths, and visited the strange people who seemed buried from the outer world.  They seldom went beyond their small domains; this idea was strengthened by the fact that I never met one in the main tunnel, or hollow pass; each place had its rocks and fixtures for grinding up corn for <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
189.sgm:<P>But, as I said, I had occasion to cut short my visits to these strange hermitages; it happened that one day I followed one of the little paths to an inclosure, and found the occupant with a long cane knife, the blade of which was about the length of an ordinary sword blade.  He seemed to be hacking away at some chaparral that was invading his domain; and he had two ferocious blood-hounds with him.  As he saw me approaching, he seemed much excited, and at a word from him the two dogs came bounding at me with their big red mouths open.  I dared not retreat further than where the trail opened into the clearing, as they were too near upon me to allow of escape to my horse; I accordingly placed myself in the entrance of the trail, facing the enemy.  I drew my revolver, and as the foremost one advanced to within about fifteen feet of me, I shot him.  He fell and began yelping, turning round and round upon the ground; at this the other retreated a few paces.  When the Mexican saw that I had fired, seeming to think <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Very willing to leave him master of the field, I mounted my horse at the main alley, and soon reached quarters at Tampico.  I related my adventure of the day, and curiosity regarding these strange people ran so high that we made inquiries of the people of Tampico as to who or what they were, but they seemed ignorant of their very existence.  About this time Capt. C. L. Wight, of Company A, concluded to accompany me on my chaparral ride; he said he would go out with me in the morning, as he had an appointment at the pilot station at two o'clock P.M. of that day, and that he must return in time to keep it.  We started out and he penetrated the chaparral with me for about six miles, when he drew rein and said, "Norton, this is wonderful, but for God's sake let us return!  I don't believe that white man's horse's hoofs ever pressed this soil before; and you recollect my appointment at the pilot station."  I begged him to give me just one-half hour more of his company, assuring him that he should be at the station in time, as the day was yet young.  He consented, and before the half hour had elapsed I brought him out to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Information reached Tampico one evening that a noted guerrilla chief with his band had made a descent upon Tankesneca, a small trading-post some sixty or seventy miles in the interior, and were robbing the inhabitants of that place.  Our commander was resolved to send out a detachment to quell them, and Company I was so fortunate as to be selected for that duty.  All was hurry and bustle in our camp, as we were preparing to leave in the morning.  The expedition was a leap in the dark, for all we knew.  We had to ascend the Panuco River in large dug-outs, to the mouth of the Tamosee (by our geography called the River Lemon), and then follow up that stream.  A lofty butte stood far in the west-a spire-like peak.  I had often looked upon it in the blue distance as it reflected the last rays of the setting sun.  It was pointed out as the terminus of our trip; we were, however, provided with a guide.  I say <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
189.sgm:<P>The officers consisted of Capt. A. Harvey, Lieut.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We ran up the Panuco to the mouth of the Tamosee in about three hours.  The country on both sides of the river for two or three miles was low valley land, and extremely fertile, occupied by a mixed race of Mexicans and Indians.  A great portion of the land was cultivated in sugar-cane.  I was told they planted about once in seven years, and as fast as the cane was cut it sprouted up from the root and produced another crop.  But, like Tampico and neighboring towns, it was very sickly.  The alligators were lying all along the shores, basking in the sun, looking like so many old gray logs; rolling into the water with a splash at our approach, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The stream was running like a mill-race; it ran with such rapidity that we consumed the balance of the day in getting our canoes over the bar and into the deep water above.  The shells were so yielding that we displaced many tons of them with our paddles in propelling the canoes up the swift current over the bar.  I saw that the wheels of a steamboat constantly worked would soon, together with the action of the water, remove the obstruction to navigation, and so reported on my return; upon which report the authorities at Tampico acted, and the <HI REND="italics">Red Wing</HI>
189.sgm:<P>After all were safely over the bar, we made preparations for camping, Conkling and myself occupying a small wall tent.  While Captain Harvey and Fullerton, and their convivial crowd, camped at a short distance above us.  They had a regular spree, and made the night hideous by their jubilant hurrahs and laughter.  Next morning Captain Harvey's orderly came to our tent and wanted to know if we had any liquor; that the captain was very sick and wanted some.  Conkling replied, "Tell Captain Harvey that he cannot get a drop here."</P>
189.sgm:<P>Our hasty meal over, we were soon aboard and underway.  The stream was smooth, deep, and sluggish, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>But I must attempt to give the reader some faint idea of what I saw.  Along each shore there was a species of reed, the stocks from one to four inches through, some of them perhaps more, and growing to the height of seventy or eighty feet.  Up these reeds ran flowering vines of all kinds and descriptions, to their very tops; and over these hung long festoons, the heft of which bent the tops of the reeds toward the stream.  These vines were perennial, were clad in flowers of every color and hue, and appeared as though planted by art; once in every sixteen or twenty feet a squash vine could be seen running to the top, mingling with the other vines, and forming the festoons spoken of; about a foot apart were hanging little yellow squashes, some four inches in diameter, looking like so many golden bells, and wherever there happened to be a small space in the reeds, there would be a most lovely and picturesque bower, the recess being completely covered with vines.  This canopy wholly sheltered us from the sun, and continued for many miles.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Emerging from the scene just described, the face of the country considerably changed; the inhabitants were very few, the valley was narrow, and the wooded country <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The forest on both sides of the river seemed alive with game; the armadillos swarmed upon the shore, looking like pigs with shells on their backs; parrots of several kinds, and paroquets without number made the woods resound with their incessant chattering.  Monkeys of three or four species could be seen capering in the trees and cutting all the antics peculiart to their nature; wild turkeys were in great abundance, to which our boys helped themselves without stint; wild hogs abounded, and were next in ferocity to the jaguar or tiger.</P>
189.sgm:<P>There being no current along that portion of the river, the boys made a good run until about two o'clock in the afternoon, when we were informed that it was much farther by water than by land--the river making a large bend.  It was therefore concluded that we would march across the country, and leave a sufficient guard to protect the canoes.  On the trip around by water, Lieutenant Conkling took charge of the canoes, while I marched accoss the country with the men.  Harvey got a horse and found himself able to ride.  I took <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The next morning at day-break we renewed the march, and arrived at Tankesneca about seven o'clock, taking the people by surprise, and the guerrilla chief prisoner, together with some of his men; but I soon let the men go and held on to their leader.  The canoes ran most of the night, and arrived soon after us.  Captain Keneday, who was also of the quartermaster department, and a volunteer in the expedition, walked with me to the river, and while looking across at a great distance I saw an animal; I called his attention to it, and remarked that it was a deer.  He laughed at me and said it was a calf.  I knew better; I could see that wild motion of the head, differing from all tame animals.  He had his carbine in his hand, and  I asked him to take a shot at it any way, but he declined to do so.  I then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>While the men were resting I had an opportunity of looking about me, and formed some idea of the place.  My first discovery was that the Tamosee had entirely changed its character at that place.  From a deep, sluggish stream it was transformed into a rapid mountain torrent; a ledge of rocks was entirely across it, making a natural dam about six feet high, forming a splendid water-power.  Around us was a large and fertile valley, and about two miles distant, like a vast tower, stood the butte, the famous landmark toward which we had been traveling for so long a time.  There was a green, grassy slope all around it for about half a mile from the pinnacle of rock.  The slope where it joined the base of the column was probably five hundred feet above the level of the plain.  Then the mighty giant rose so perpendicularly that no one could ascend it; in fact, it was the most remarkable formation of the kind that I ever saw--similar in form to the granite columns at Slippery Ford, in the Sierra Nevada, only much higher and with greater uniformity of shape.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Tankesneca was a collection of rude huts, occupied by a half-civilized mixed breed of Mexicans and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>AFTER having straightened matters at Tankesneca as well as was possible in the time we were permitted to remain there, we took to our dug-out at about two o'clock P.M. of the fourth day from Tampico, and commenced our descent of the river.  A severe catastrophe now befell us: we had run out of rations, and the country was so sparsely settled along the river in that part that it was difficult foraging; but at night-fall we tied up at the bank of the river where there were a couple of small ranches, made friends with the inhabitants, and set the women to work making <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
189.sgm:; with the scanty supply they furnished by working all night, the next morning we were enabled to advance on our homeward trip.  No incident of note occurred the next day, and about an hour before sundown we again tied up for the night at a small ranch.  This was the fifth day out from Tampico, and the next day at two o'clock P.M. Captain Keneday and myself were to receive five hundred wild mules, at Tampico, for the United States Government, and receipt for the same.  No one there was authorized to do it.  What was to be done?  We did not expect to be absent more than four days, and that was the extent of our leave of absence; it was impossible to reach Tampico in less than two days by the river.  General Gates was of the regular army, a harsh, strict disciplinarian, and did not like the volunteers.  On our part there was no love lost; we had asked no odds and expected no favors, and if we had we would have been disappointed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The canoe was a little toppling thing, and didn't seem capable of carrying over two persons, but our guides kept the balance, and a little after dark we arrived at what they called the Point.  But we were doomed to a disappointment here, for there was nothing at the Point but squalid young ones and cross dogs.  The children informed us that the folks had gone to the Rancho Ratonus, to  a fandango.  We inquired of our guides how large a place Ratonus was; they informed us that it was but small.  We then directed them to lead on to Rancho Ratonus, which they said was two leagues.  We told them that any attempt to betray us would cost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Our guides suddenly disappeared in the crowd, and without their pay.  A great confusion ensued--a hurrying and screaming of the women, and men going and coming; the music ceased and in fifteen minutes there was not a woman there.  It was "presto change;" instead of the jolly dance and music that greeted our first appearance on the scene, there was now only armed men, with dark brows and glaring eyes, and gestures that would indicate that our dooms were sealed, at least in the estimation of that crowd; and I began most seriously to concur in that opinion myself, for in every face I could read that of my executioner.  We were now completely surrounded by nearly a hundred of as well-appointed, dark-visaged cut-throats as I ever saw, and all armed; some with escopets, some with swords, and others with long cane knives.  Their declaration of war on us was so unequivocal that we made no secret of our intentions, each drawing and cocking a revolver and facing in opposite direction--we were determined to sell our lives  for the greatest possible number of dead Mexicans.  The most superficial glance at the faces of the demons that surrounded us showed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We remained in this unenviable position for fifteen or twenty minutes, when an idea crossed my brain which I must ever believe saved  our lives.  I said, Have you an alcalde here?  They replied in the affirmative.  I told them I wanted to speak with him.  A little fat, greasy old Mexican came forward and announced himself that functionary.  I informed him that we were American officers; that our command had encamped at that river, and were to be at that place at ten o'clock in the morning, and that he would be held responsible for our safety; if any harm befell us there, that the entire place would be massacred; that we wanted horses and saddles and a guide to conduct us to Tampico, for which we would liberally pay.  He retired into the crowd, and after a few moments I noticed that those human devils increased the distance between us by falling back a little, which seemed to be a favorable omen.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In a little time the alcalde again made his appearance (and no doubt he had been consulting our treacherous guides as to the truth of my statements about the troops); he said they had the horses, but he did not think he could get the saddles.  I replied that it was rather singular as large a place as Ratonus could not furnish three saddles.  He said he would try and procure them, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>After we were fairly out of Ratonus we came to a halt and examined our guide; he was a young fellow, not more than twenty years of age, and, like many others of the inhabitants of those parts, a mixture of Mexican and Indian.  We told him that any movement on his part engendering a suspicion that he intended to betray us, or any attempt to desert us, would most assuredly cost him his life; but if he took us through to Altamira all safe, we would give him five dollars extra.  Through fear of punishment on the one hand and hope of gain on the other, the fellow seemed to identify himself with our cause.  He then told us that the mule on which I was riding was very old, and he did not think it could stand it to go to Altamira in the way that we expected to ride.  We now understood our situation so far as our guide was concerned, but I could not divest my mind of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>"Do you see that fellow?"</P>
189.sgm:<P>I replied that I saw something.  Keneday said he had just rode behind a clump of brush to the left of the road.  The old scabbard rang, and sword in hand I charged around the brush, and sure enough there was a man.  As I came up to him he took off his hat, and in the cringing manner peculiar to his race, said, "Sen&tilde;or."  I asked him in <HI REND="italics">my best</HI>
189.sgm: Mexican (which, no doubt, was bad enough) what he was doing there.  He said he was hunting his horses.  I remarked that twelve o'clock at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We rode in this order about half a mile, where a grove of small trees appeared on our left, when all of a sudden there was a general rush, rattling of arms, and excitement, close to where we were passing.  The old scabbard rang, and my horse sprang forward; I gave the old mule a whack, as I came up to him; he sprangaside, and away we went, but we presently got a volley by way of salute from the rear, followed by the clatter of horses' hoofs.  We put our horses to the top of their speed for the next hour, having discharged our carbines in the rear at the first sound of hoofs behind us.  We now reached a deep, sluggish stream, the ferryman, house, and boat all on the opposite bank.  We hallooed and awoke the ferryman, who soon took us across in a dugout, swimming our horses.  When once across, we seized the canoe and, making the ferryman and guide assist, drew it out of the water, and up the bank so far from the water that a single man could not get it back in an hour.  We then thought of tying the ferryman, but time was precious with us, and we concluded on the whole that it would do very well as it was.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>We continued our trip for about two hours unmolested, when we came to another stream (or perhaps the same) with a ferry like the first.  As in the first instance, we got across and secured the boat.  We now rode on feeling very safe.  There were no towns and but few inhabitants along the route we were pursuing, and presently the wolves began to howl as though they would howl a man off his horse.  I knew then there were no Mexicans around, and those brindle devils, for once, made music to my ears.</P>
189.sgm:<P>It was now about three o'clock in the morning, and at eight we reached Altamira without further incident worthy of note.  We met our friend Major Jerolt just in time to take a nice breakfast with him.  The major wanted to know where we had dropped from.  We told him we had come from Rancho Ratonus, relating the whole adventure.  The major exclaimed, " The Rancho Ratonus!  Well, the devil surely protects his own!  Why, that Rancho Ratonus is the worst guerrilla hole in all Mexico!  It is not two weeks since I was forced to send out two companies of cavalry to quiet that same Rancho Ratonus.  They were robbing and murdering their own inhabitants, and how you ever escaped with your lives is a miracle."  Refreshed with a good breakfast and a cigar, we were again prepared for action.  We discharged our guide, and paid him off with the five dollar bonus promised him.  Major Jerolt furnished us a couple of fresh horses and we arrived at Tampico at one o'clock P.M., received and receipted for the mules, and thus ended one of the most dangerous adventures ever undertaken by me in Mexico.</P>
189.sgm:<P>On my return from the exciting expedition narrated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The town of Pueblo Viejo is situated upon a narrow neck of land running between the gulf and Tampico Lake, with a large level country lying to the north, interspersed with lakes, rivers, and chaparral; while to the south and east it is protected from the coast by a point of land, rising several hundred feet above the level of the sea.  The site of the town is from ten to fifty feet above the lake, commencing near the water and sloping back to the hills; but the acclivity is so gentle that it would hardly be noticed, and the whole town is situated in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>There is one relic of the ancient greatness of Pueblo Viejo that seems to bid defiance to decay--that is the extensive baths; a stream of pure water is brought from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:the hills and emptied into a series of stone vats, twelve to fifteen feet wide and about thirty long.  They number about forty, and each is situated a little lower than the other, say six inches, and as the water fills the upper one, the masonry being a little the lowest next to the adjoining reservoir, or vat, with the two outer walls higher, it flows to the next, and so on till they are all filled, being six or seven feet deep.  There is a rock terrace, or pavement, about twenty feet wide, running the whole length of these reservoirs and below the top of the water wall about three feet.  Standing on this terrace, or pavement, were frequently hundreds of Mexican women and girls, some washing their linen, but the major portion engaged with large brown earthenware vessels, holding from five to seven gallons, smaller at the base than at the center, bulging outward, then contracting to about eight inches across the top.  These contained corn, soaked in alkali to start the hulls.  They fill the vessel with water, set it on the pavement, and, putting both feet into the small opening, perform a regular treadmill operation; they stamp away until the hulls are loosed from the corn, then set the vessel on the massive stone wall, about two and a half feet thick, making a solid base of operations, where they wash the corn; it is rubbed and put through a great number of washings, until it is cleansed and all hulls removed; then it is deemed ready to be manufactured into <HI REND="italics">tortillas</HI>
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189.sgm:<P>I started in to tell of the great fandango, or festival, to come off a Pueblo Viejo.  First, imagine a very large and smooth plaza, with two rows of booths around the outer edges, presenting everything in the shape of edibles and drinkables in the Mexican market, and the balance of the plaza covered by awnings of palmetto leaves, so as to shelter it from the sun by day and shield the lamps from the wind at night.  Next, the musicstands were arranged at suitable distances, so to accommodate the whole grounds, with the gambling tables.  The music generally consisted of violins, guitars, and some other stringed instruments, but what they lacked in variety they made up in quantity.  On this occasion I suppose there were not less than seven or eight thousand and perhaps more, men, women and children of all ages mingling together, seeming to have but one object in view, and that enjoyment.  It was a pleasing spectacle to see thousands at once in the giddy whirl of the waltz, and such waltzing I never saw before.  The Mexicans, both men and women, excel in the grace of that art.  Some were dancing, some eating, some drinking, and some gaming; in the latter amusement, the padres took a prominent part.  Monte cards and dice were the principal agents used; but there were dozens of different games that I never observed before nor since.  Little boys, five, six and seven years old, would be seated on mats with the regular games of monte, playing where the stakes were stubs of cigars or some trifling trinket, while among the more aristocratic the old don would be risking several ounces on the turn of a card.  But I have noticed that in all the playing that I ever saw at monte, the "cabala" is the favorite card with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The police regulations are conducted with a great deal of propriety and vigor.  During this fandango, a noted robber chief found his way into the crowd, but was recognized by the police.  I saw quite a rush and excitement of parties running to a certain point.  Curiosity prompted me to follow, as well as several other officers.  On arriving at the place I discovered a regular sword combat between two expert swordsmen; they seemed to be about equal in strength and skill, and each evidently meant death to his antagonist.  There did not seem to be any one inclined to interfere, and the contest was long and desperate; both had received several slight wounds; finally one made a desperate lunge at his opponent, which was skillfully parried by the other, and before the thrusting party could fairly recover, the other ran him through the body, and in fact shoved the hilt of his sword nearly to the breast of his foe, who fell, the blood spurting from his mouth and nostrils, and expired without uttering a word or even a moan.  I then for the first time got an opportunity to take a fair look at the successful gladiator, and to my astonishment there stood before us as fine a native of Erin's green isle as ever crossed the briny ocean.  Light blue eyes, a rather florid complexion, light chestnut hair, sandy whiskers, with full red lips, and a certain undefiable air that is impossible to mistake in a regular Irish countenance.  Some of our officers addressed him in English, of which he did not seem to understand a single word; but through an interpreter we learned that he claimed to be a Mexican, was born in the country, and looked upon his ancestors as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>WE had all returned from Pueblo Viejo, each one having his private adventures of the fandango treasured up to communicate to some of his favorite companions-in-arms, which was calculated to swell the budget of camp news, when it was announced that a great cock-fight was to come off the next evening, and that Colonel Derusa of the Louisiana regiment, and Lieutenant-Colonel Marks, who were both sporting men, had each procured a very fine fowl, and that the birds were to be pitted against each other on that occasion.  I walked into the cockpit in company with Captain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>As I have commenced this chapter with an anecdote, I believe I will continue it by relating one or two that I have heretofore not noticed.  When we had been in Tampico about six weeks, an Irishman, a private in Company A, got into a row with a Mexican; an altercation ensued, and the Irishman killed the Mexican; was arrested, and imprisoned to await trial.  Our judiciary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>After the testimony was in, the attorneys made their arguments; and when Colonel Hicks came to the part of the Mexican's testimony where he testified that the prisoner spoke good Spanish, Hick's remarked:  "And they swear that he spoke good Spanish; I suppose that he talked Spanish about as well as one of my cavalrymen did who was out with me last year; the fellow's horse had escaped; seeing a Mexican sawing wood on the side of the street, he exclaimed: `Halloo!  <HI REND="italics">hombre</HI>
189.sgm:, did you see a bobtailed <HI REND="italics">cabello vamosing</HI>
189.sgm: down the street, without any saddle on him?'  `No intende' (I do not understand), was the response.  The soldier indignantly replied: `Confound you, can't you understand your own language?'--forgetting that he had used but three words of Spanish in the whole lingo."  He then went on to show that the soldier came from Ireland about three years before, and had worked in the Galena lead mines until he volunteered to come to Mexico; that he was an uneducated man, and probably never saw a Mexican in his life before landing in Tampico, and at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I have heretofore remarked that General Gates was of the regular army, a great stickler for military discipline, and most cordially hated the volunteer service; consequently we did not entertain a great amount of love for him.  As for myself, I procured a copy of the Regulations of the United States Army, and made myself thoroughly acquainted with my rights and obligations under them, fully intending to discharge every duty enjoined by them, and as fully determined to submit to no impositions on the part of others.  While these feelings were yet being nursed by me, a favorable opportunity occurred to beard the old lion and show him that I wasn't the tamest of beasts myself.  I was sitting in my quarters one day, when a detail was served on me; I did not read it, supposing it was to act as officer of the day.  I dressed myself to obey the detail, and walked down to meet the relief.  On my arrival I found Lieutenant Sampson--a second lieutenant--there to take his position as officer of the day.  I turned to the adjutant, and asked him what it meant; he replied, "You are detailed as officer of the guard!"  I consigned both him and his detail to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>GATES--"What is your present rank, sir?"</P>
189.sgm:<P>"First lieutenant in the line, captain by virtue of quartermaster's appointment."</P>
189.sgm:<P>GATES--"Now, sir, what were your reasons for disobeying the orders of your colonel?"</P>
189.sgm:<P>"If permitted I will give my reasons, sir."</P>
189.sgm:<P>GATES (peremptorily)--"I want your reason, sir."</P>
189.sgm:<P>I again replied that I would give my reasons if permitted.  I had noticed that my friend Tracy seemed very nervous and affrighted on my account, fidgeting in his seat and giving other demonstrations of uneasiness, and seeing the old general getting in a passion, remarked to him that perhaps I might have more than one reason.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>Thereupon the old general growled, "Then give me your reasons, sir."</P>
189.sgm:<P>I replied I was acting quartermaster of the command, and could not be compelled to do field duty.</P>
189.sgm:<P>GENERAL--"How is this, Colonel Hicks?"  The colonel replied that it was true, but that during the sickly season I had volunteered to do duty in the line.</P>
189.sgm:<P>GENERAL (turning to me)--"That is no excuse, sir; so long as you volunteered to do line duty, you cannot escape it by throwing yourself behind the shield of a disbursing officer."</P>
189.sgm:<P>At this point Tracy looked so badly scared that I really felt worse on his account than for my own fate, for I knew my defense and he did not.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The general again growled out, "Have you any other defense?"  "Yes, sir.  I am in command of a company, and on no occasion has a company commander been called on to act as officer of the guard, and this detail is without precedent."</P>
189.sgm:<P>Again he turned to Colonel Hicks and asked him as to the fact claimed by me.  The colonel admitted that the present case was the only one, and that it was inadvertently done.  The old general was like an enraged tiger, and exclaimed, "Young man, this is no excuse; don't talk of precedents; your colonel has the right to make precedents."</P>
189.sgm:<P>Tracy was more uneasy than ever, and absolutely looked like a condemned criminal awaiting execution.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The old general roared out again, "Have you anything further to offer in defense?"</P>
189.sgm:<P>I quietly replied that I had, but had hoped the two reasons already given would have been satisfactory; that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>At this the old general was more furious than ever, and said that it was not for Colonel Hicks to withdraw the charges; that he sat as a court of inquiry that the whole matter was in his hands, and unless I clearly purged myself of the charge, I would be cashiered and reduced to the ranks.</P>
189.sgm:<P>By this time I had become perfectly aroused, and retorted by saying I was aware that I was standing before a tribunal that would only be too willing to convict, but I thanked God that there was some things that that court could not do with impunity; and I therefore offered as my last and perfect defense, that "I was detailed to act as officer of the guard while an officer inferior in rank was detailed to act as officer of the day."</P>
189.sgm:<P>The old general turned full around upon Colonel Hicks, and exclaimed, "How is this, Colonel Hicks?"</P>
189.sgm:<P>The colonel admitted the truth of the statement.</P>
189.sgm:<P>"Oh, tut-tut!  Colonel Hicks, that will never do, that will never do!"</P>
189.sgm:<P>At the last defense I saw Tracy brighten up, and when the old general turned to me again, it was with a very different air.  He said, "Young man, you are discharged; but you have run a fearful risk; it is very unsafe, sir, to take the law into your own hands.  You had far better suffered the indignity than to have taken the chances that you have taken;" and then turning to Colonel Hicks, he said, "I hope, colonel, that neither you nor I will ever be subjected to a like temptation."  And I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The forces stationed at Tampico were the only ones on the part of the United States to hold in check the Mexicans in the Sierra Madre&grave; country.  And now rumors began to be circulated that the Mexicans were beginning to organize at or near the ancient city of Panuco.  Accordingly it was determined to send a scouting part through the country, up the Panuco River, to that point, and Company A, of our regiment, was selected for that service.  The company was commanded by Capt. C. L. Wight, who, though young, was a brave and discreet officer.  I volunteered as quartermaster and assistant commissary of the command, and we commenced our march without any camp or garrison equipage or commissary stores futher than what the knapsacks and haversacks of the men furnished, trusting to the country to furnish rations; when the people were friendly we would pay for them, of course; when they were hostile, we would borrow from them, or pay in powder and bullets, as the necessity of the case demanded.  Twelve miles from Tampico, up the Panuco River, was what is known as the Lafler place.  I think Lafler was an American; he had a very fine tract of land, large in dimensions and extraordinarily fertile.  Upon this he had a very large coffee plantation.  I think he had from six hundred to seven hundred acres in coffee--the first that I ever saw growing; it grows upon a shrub or bush ranging from eight to fifteen feet high; the leaves are dark green and the coffee grains grow two together, and are covered with a hull or skin that is red, presenting the appearance of red berries.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>We encamped at Lafler's that night.  During the night a tiger attacked and killed an ox on the opposite side of the river, and his deep growls seemed to jar the earth where we were; it was unlike anything I ever heard before; the next day we continued our march, passing for several miles through an unbroken forest of lime trees, the yellow limes lying so thick all over the ground that you could scrape them up by the bushel, and the forest extending in every direction as far as you could see.  There were but very few inhabitants on this route, although there were plenty of evidences that at some former day the whole country had been well populated, for mouldering ruins and broken potteryware were to be seen on all sides.  The water was very bad, being strongly impregnated with alkali, and was only rendered drinkable by squeezing lime juice into it.</P>
189.sgm:<P>About an hour before sunset we arrived at the old city of Panuco.  I was somewhat disappointed with the appearance of the place, as I had heard and read of it as presenting so many evidences of former greatness.  A brief examination showed me that the ruins in and about Panuco could not be compared with those of Pueblo Viejo; notwithstanding I had not heard any comment in regard to the latter.  The ruins of Panuco seemed to be of more recent date than those of Pueblo Viejo; less extensive, and less architectural beauty displayed in the construction of the buildings, less of heavy masonry and more of the adobe buildings.  On our approach we saw a few armed Mexicans, who kept at a respectful distance.  We crossed the river to the main portion of the town, where we took possession of a public building that furnished us with ample and complete  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>We had now been long enough in Mexico to learn that we had to watch the treacherous Mexicans, as several of our men had been poisoned by provisions obtained from the markets in Tampico (though none of them fatally).  So I bargained for a live beef and had it slaughtered by our own men; then set a lot of Mexican women to manufacturing <HI REND="italics">tortillas y frijoles colorado negro</HI>
189.sgm:<P>As soldiers are not overly scrupulous, especially when in an enemy's country, there was no lack of provisions.  About one o'clock in the afternoon we tied up under the bank and sought a shade to take a lunch, but I soon saw that the boys were hunting wood, building fires, etc., and in about one hour there were added to the <HI REND="italics">tortillas y frijoles</HI>
189.sgm: several roast fowls, in the disposition of which the officers were cordially invited to participate.  When interrogated as to how they came into possession of them, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Rounding a bend, below us something over a mile, in the center of the stream, like a dolphin resting upon the water, lay a beautiful schooner.  Captain Wight had a small field-glass, and readily discovered that the vessel was an armed craft, as the glass showed the brass pieces on the side.  This was something for which we had not bargained, but we kept steadily pulling towards her.  Presently we could, with the naked eye, see great activity on board of her, and before we had fully made up our minds what to do, we saw a puff of smoke, and a round shot came skipping over the water some distance on one side of us.  At that moment up went the flag; a glance was sufficient to show us that it was our own stars and stripes.  As it happened we had a little company flag with us, which we waved in return, and pulled to the schooner.  We all went aboard and received a hearty welcome.  Everything about her was as neat as a pin.  Her decks were as clean as a good housewife's table, and her guns shone like mirrors.</P>
189.sgm:<P>After we were on board, and had exchanged greetings with the officers, came the explanation.  We having been sent across the country, and not knowing what we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>We continued to descend the river, notwithstanding night was upon us; but it became necessary that we should reach some place that could feed us, as our dinner had exhausted our supplies.  Thus we continued our voyage until about ten o'clock at night, when we reached the little town of Agua Cotta.</P>
189.sgm:<P>This was a small town on the south bank of the Panuco River, I think about twenty-five miles from Tampico.  There had not been the least caution used in landing, and no danger anticipated; the canoes were run into the bank just as it happened, and the men, excepting a very few who were left in charge of the boats, had straggled up town in pursuit of supper--doubtless something to drink, also.  However, I had made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>There were fifteen or twenty of the boys near me awaiting supper, and several of the officers.  Captain Wight cried out: "Boys, defend the boats!"  We made a grand rush for the boats; and none too soon, for we were in rear of about fifty Mexicans, rushing on to the guards; the latter instantly formed and delivered a fire upon the advancing enemy.  The volley was returned by them, with considerable spirit, although with little apparent effect on either side.  It was night, though not very dark, and we could recognize their relative positions.  As the foe was between us and our guard at the boats we could not fire without endangering our own men.  We were compelled to make a rapid oblique march to the right, and then we delivered a volley in their flank, for which they were not prepared.  We then rushed on them with fixed bayonets and compelled them to retreat in disorder.  Our boats now being safe we turned our attention to the desultory firing up town.  We left the guard strengthened, and with about twenty men rushed back to relieve the stragglers, who seemed to have rather a hot time of it.</P>
189.sgm:<P>As we advanced, the men continued to fall into position and we soon had our little command reduced to something like order, and in possession of the eastern portion of the village.  The Mexicans continued a brisk fire, secreted behind buildings and fences, but their weapons were the old clumsy escopets, from which there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Our men were drawn up on the bank for roll-call, to ascertain the amount of damage and loss to our command, when two men came scuffling down to the bank, or rather one of them was dragging the other after him.  We were soon enlightened as to the cause.  It was our green Irishman; the one who stuck his gun down the bore of the field-piece, in Tampico, to "keep the spalpeens from getting it."  He had captured a prisoner, and was bringing him along to the boats.  He explained that as he was trying to get a drink, the Mexican rushed on him with a big knife; and as he was about running the fellow through with his bayonet, he was interfered with by the priest; and to use Pat's own language, as nearly as possible, "his riverence rushed up and sthuck the crosh in my viry face; when instead of killing him, I took the spalpeen by the neck, and jist brought him wid me."  He was directed to let the fellow go.</P>
189.sgm:<P>On examination we found that we had not lost a man.  Two were seriously wounded, and several slightly; we had captured thirty or forty stands of arms, several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I was awakened the next morning by Capt. C. L. Wight.  I found the morning sun shining full in my face.  The captain informed me that he had taken the liberty of interfering with my duties as A.C.S., and had made such arrangements as best he could for breakfast for the men; for which I returned him my thanks, and as that duty was off my mind, I had resolved to visit the man who could speak our language; not so much for the gratification of meeting the man, as to obtain some information regarding ancient ruins that, from "Norman's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>After breakfast I returned to the command, and obtained permission from Captain Wight to retain a canoe and four men, and lay over at this point until the next day, as I had learned the ruins I was so anxious to visit were but a short distance down the river from us.  Kier had agreed to accompany us as a guide.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In the meantime the command had got under way for Tampico, and about ten o'clock in the forenoon we embarked in the canoe, and being provided with edibles by our kind host and guide, we descended the river for about two miles, to where there was another considerable river emptying its clear waters into the Panuco; here we landed.  Mine host had brought with him two Mexican servants, and an immensely large amount of provisions for a single day.  On my expressing surprise, he informed me that a day's sport there would give me but a faint idea of the place; and that he, presuming that my stay was only limited by my inclination, had provided for our immediate necessities by bringing along such things as he thought we might need during our stay among the ruins.</P>
189.sgm:<P>On my way down to the landing I gained something of my companion's early history.  He was a German by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:birth; came to New York when very young; at sixteen commenced life before the mast, as a common sailor.  Left his ship at Vera Cruz; worked around the docks for some time, learned to speak Mexican, and at twenty years of age he landed at Tampico.  He finally became acquainted with an old don, went up the Panuco, where I found him, and in due course of time married the old don's daughter, by whose <HI REND="italics">death</HI>
189.sgm: he got a <HI REND="italics">living</HI>
189.sgm:.  He further informed me that upon commencing business for himself he had a great disgust for the Mexican mode of farming; he said they used a wooden shovel plow, which would merely root up the earth, without any pretense of turning a furrow; and the rest of the labor was performed with heavy, awkward, Mexican hoes.  But he went East, procured steel plows and the most improved implements for working the soil; such as harrows, cultivators, etc., and was determined to show the "greasers" how to farm it.  His plows did excellent work, turning up the virgin soil from depths that no Mexican system had ever reached, and his improved harrows were a source of amazement to the Mexicans.  His cultivators had superseded the clumsy hoe, and he could show such a cornfield as had never before been seen on the shores of the Panuco.  "But," said he, "what do you think; my corn became like young trees, from twenty to twenty-five feet high, and without any ears whatever, and my experiment cost me my entire crop."  "Well," I said, "what did you do? did you throw away your late improvements and return to the Mexican system?"  "Oh, no!" he said, "the next season I did not plow the ground at all.  I planted, after harrowing the field, using the cultivator to keep the weeds down, and took off a good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>As stated, we had landed and were at the base of our operations.  It was a pleasant day, and along the immediate shore, at the upper portion of the grounds we were to explore, there were a few acres of open ground studded with large mesquite trees, which made a very nice shade; and the water of the nameless river was pure, sweet, and fitted for ordinary domestic uses.  Hence we determined to make our camp at this point, and my four men in connection with the two Mexicans soon constructed a temporary encampment.  Really, it was an attractive spot; the ground raised gently from the shore of the Panuco and sloped back to the south, where far in the background, terrace mounting upon terrace, rose the Sierra Madre&grave; Mountains to the probable height of two thousand feet; while to the north lay the flat and fertile valley between the Panuco and Tamosee Rivers.  We took a hasty meal in our new quarters, as it was now past midday, and commenced our march inland and up the nameless stream.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We had landed right among the mouldering ruins, which approached the very bank of the river.  Here were piles of adobe walls yet maintaining their identity, and there broken columns of granite rock giving unmistakable evidence of the labors of men upon their surface, by the yet visible marks of the artisan's chisel, undefaced by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>We proceeded about four miles up the stream, covered here by a heavy mesquite forest and there by patches of chaparral, interspersed with open ground, carpeted with a heavy and uncropped growth of grass.  This place seemed to be a favorite retreat for the feather tribes; parrots and paroquets swarmed in the trees.  Several black pheasants sprang up before us, one of which Kier brought down with his fowling-piece; while snipe and beautiful plumaged cranes lined the shore and pools along the stream.  There were a few monkeys chattering in the trees, but they had ceased to be a novelty.  We found the stream to be the outlet to a lake that lay between the Panuco River and the mountains.  It was a lovely sheet of water, with a pebbly shore, shallow at the edge and gradually deepening until its blue waves entirely hid the bottom of the immense depth.  The ruins extended all the way from the Panuco to the lake.  The width of the lake at this point, as I observed, was about six miles, but I could not see its eastern extremity; and the question arose in my mind whether or not this was not an arm of Lake Tampico--which problem I never had an opportunity of solving.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Everywhere covering the ground and mingling with the ruins were large masses of broken potteryware; statuary of men, quadrupeds, and fowls, all broken and ruined, yet giving evidences of the skill and taste of the race who had some day peopled that lovely place.  The statuary and figures seemed to have been attached to the buildings, standing out in bold relief, sustaining cornices <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>It was difficult to say whether the ruined city was confined to the river as a port, or whether its commercial advantages also connected it with the lake; there was one thing very evident, that there had been many massive and elegant buildings on the lake shore, and I think they compared favorably with the ruins on the river.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Night was now closing in on us, and we returned to the river, where we had established our base of operations.  After supper, I seated myself on a fallen column of granite and sank into profound meditation.  It was hard to realize that, where I sat at the time, more than a thousand years ago a mighty city, which now lay in ruins at my feet, had teemed with commerce, life, and action; its busy streets had one day swarmed with thousands of human beings, whose impulses and feelings probably differed but little from our own.  There, had mingled the man of business, the devotee, the pleasure-seeker, the layman and the clergy; men of wealth and station, with rank and power; and vice and squalid misery had alike swarmed in the thoroughfares of this once mighty emporium.  But who were they? where did they come from, and whither did they go?  What great devastating power or destructive calamity had overtaken them?  Were these the works of the Toltecas nation, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>The next morning we took a trail through a patch of chaparral; all the way the path was rendered uneven and rough by leading over mounds, formed by fallen walls, and blocks of stone of various shapes and sizes, until we reached that part of the ruins particularly referred to by "Norman's Travels and Explorations in Mexico," where we found the large tortoise mentioned by him.  It rests upon a pedestal, and is about four feet across the base.  It is still perfect, excepting the nose, which is partly broken off.  It is a well-wrought piece of sculpture, and is a perfect tortoise, shell, legs, and tail, but the head that protrudes from the shell is that of a man.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>My attention was called to a place where there had been an excavation; and about two feet below the surface of the ground there was, beyond any doubt, a paved street, as regularly flagged as the streets are at the present day.  With the short time that I had to spend, and the limited means for prosecuting my researches, I, of course, formed but a vague idea of the interests that labor must develop to the scientific world.  But what struck me with more force than all the rest was the extent of territory covered with buildings, and the architectural skill used in beautifying them.  It was here Captain Chase, American Minister to Tampico, procured the statue of a man about which there was so much speculation and comment by the press in 1847.  It was the statue of a man, apparently cut from solid rock, as no evidence whatever appeared indicating that it was composite.  It was so ingeniously finished and arranged that water poured into the mouth would escape at the extremities.</P>
189.sgm:<P>After spending a couple of days among the ruins, I bade farewell to my friend and guide, and in a few hours after reported myself safe and sound in Tampico.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>IT had long been reported that there was a ravenous tiger which had his lair on the peninsula between Lake Tampico and the Gulf of Mexico, ending on the Tampico River, and that he was in the habit of making nocturnal descents upon the stock of the ranchers located <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:on the borders of the lake.  He had become a terror to the inhabitants of that community, and for want of something better to do I concluded that a tiger hunt would be a pleasant adventure.  I got six adventurous spirits to join me in the expedition, and we asked and obtained leave of Colonel Hicks to make a descent upon this renowned denizen of the chaparral.  I was the only officer, and was dressed like the rest, in the uniform of a private.  We provided ourselves with canteens, haversacks, short Roman swords, muskets, and bayonets.  Each took a lunch in his haversack, and water in his canteen.  All were ready for a start at about eight o'clock in the morning, and we crossed the river and traveled on to where the land commenced to rise abruptly to a plateau, say two hundred feet above the level of the plain.  At the base of this rise we found a nice cold spring, from which we replenished our canteens.  Then ascending the plateau, we proceeded in an easterly direction, across an open country, and soon came to a ruined <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:, an orange orchard long neglected, and a forest of cactus.  The latter was the most extraordinary I ever saw, covering an area of some ten acres; the trees were some thirty to forty feet in height, and as dense as a hay-stack.  (I would not dare tell this in a cold climate!)  We made our way around it (an army of ten thousand men would have had to do the same), and passed through alternate patches of open ground and chaparral, with here and there a few mesquite trees, making our way towards the coast.  But the further we went, the more chaparral and less open ground, until in many places we had to pass over the tops of large masses of chaparral, it being so dense that we could sustain ourselves, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>As I could see the tops of some mesquite trees in advance of us, I called out, to encourage the boys, that there was open ground ahead.  We continued our toilsome march, ever and anon losing our footing and falling down among the thorny mass eight or ten feet, the thorns tearing our flesh and clothes; but we would again scramble up and push ahead for the timber.  At last we reached it, and finding open ground, congratulated ourselves on having at last overcome the principal obstacles in the way, and hoped to soon reach the coast, as we could hear the surf beating on the shore very distinctly.  We were all perfectly exhausted and suffering with thirst, and sat for a few minutes in the shade while we ate a little lunch; it was but little, as we were all too thirsty to eat much.  At three o'clock in the afternoon we again commenced our march for the gulf; but we had not proceeded more than half a mile before we discovered that the open ground was but an island in a dense sea of chaparral, and nothing but death or the most desperate exertion was before us, as we must reach water or die.</P>
189.sgm:<P>My feelings were anything but pleasant.  Not so much for myself did I care, as for the poor fellows that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>At last the shore burst upon our view.  More dead than alive, we threw ourselves down upon the beach, and dug holes in the sand, hoping to get water that would to some extent alleviate the thirst that was consuming us.  But this was to no purpose; the briny of the Gulf of Mexico was a poor substitute for water.  In that condition we lay for about one hour.  The damp <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I noticed on arriving at the station that our coming was an enigma to the parties occupying it, and that there was something wrong generally at that place.  There were four Americans at the station, while all their assistants, servants, etc., were Mexicans.  This was at a time when many rumors were afloat, and it was generally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>The next morning I remarked to Captain--(I forget his name), who was in charge, that they had had quite a night of suspense.  He remarked that they had, and a night of danger, too; but for our timely arrival they might all have had their throats cut; but as there was no officer with us they did not tell us of the danger, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>IT was now advancing toward the rainy season, and it became necessary, for the protection of the troops, that we should furnish better shelter than our canvas tents, from the storms that were likely to ensue.  Accordingly it devolved upon me, as quartermaster of the command, to provide quarters suitable for the rainy season.  After consultation and advice, I erected sheds covered with palm leaves, under which we could pitch our tents, and be dry and comparatively comfortable.  This kept me employed for some time, but rumors began to reach us that there was a large force organizing at Tampico el Alto numbering five thousand or more, and meditating a descent on Tampico.  Our effective force being now reduced to less than two thousand men, an express messenger was dispatched to Washington to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>This was in the fall of 1847; the murky clouds were gathering, and for the first time since landing in Tampico, in July, the sun was obscured.  Company I broke camp, and we all embarked on board of such small boats and crafts as were at our command, and commenced our expedition.  In three or four hours we landed at Pueblo Viejo, found quarters for the men, and made such necessary arrangements for the comfort of the command as was thought advisable for the short sojourn we were to make at that place.  Captain Harvey was nominally in command of the company, but as  soon as we had landed he called upon the alcalde, was a willing recipient of his bounties, and engaged in imbibing copious libations of <HI REND="italics">muscal</HI>
189.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">aguardienta</HI>
189.sgm:<P>Night was approaching; there had been a smart shower of rain in the afternoon, making the ground <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:quite wet and the streets slippery.  Conkling and myself had made our arrangements thus:  We were to establish a local guard in the town, I was to take command of a small scouting party, and under cover of night, advance on the road to Tampico el Alto, while Conkling held command of the balance of the company.  The local guard was stationed; among them was a boy by the name of Spalding Lewis; he was a tall lad of sixteen, and was determined to go to Mexico with us from St. Charles.  His mother was a widow, and I think Conkling, as well as myself, promised the mother that we would, as far as possible, protect and guard her son from all harm.  Well, when Spalding was placed on guard, I directed him to challenge all who approached him, and stop them.  But, said he, if they will not stop, what then?  I replied, you know your duty, <HI REND="italics">stop them</HI>
189.sgm:<P>The guard had been stationed half an hour.  I had my scouting party all in line, when I heard the report of a musket.  I ordered the scouting party on a double-quick, and we soon reached the spot from whence the report proceeded.  There I saw Lewis deliberately ramming home his cartridge.  I said, "Spal., what are you shooting at?"  He quietly pointed down the street, remarking, "That fellow came up; I challenged twice, when he started to run, and I slapped it to him."  I looked in the direction, and saw a Mexican lying on his face, making some feeble attempts to raise himself.  I approached him, and found that he was shot through the heart, and in less than two minutes he was quite dead.  I handed him over to the alcalde, assuring him that unless he took more pains and kept his men within their proper limits, more of them would share a like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>On our return to camp, I found Captain Harvey, who immediately assumed command of the company, and wanted to know what I was going to do with so many men.  I informed him that I was about complying with the orders of General Gates, by throwing a scouting party out on the road to Tampico el Alto.  I had intended to take thirty men, but he blustered around, and said he could not spare so many men from the command, as it would endanger its safety.  But the gallant captain had forgotten that I was placing myself between him and all danger.  After considerable wrangling, it was agreed that I might take twenty, and I was to select my men.  (But my young blood was up, and I cursed him, and called him a drunken coward.)</P>
189.sgm:<P>I selected Sergeant Efner to take charge of the men, and took Lesser Lebenstein, my interpreter; the alcalde furnished me with what he claimed to be a trusty guide.  The information we had received regarding the enemy was that they numbered about five thousand, and were comprised of Mexicans and Indians.  But whether the force was reduced to anything like discipline or not we had no means of knowing.  I had supposed them to be a kind of wild and roving band, assembled for marauding purposes, rather than an organized force to be dreaded by a well drilled and disciplined command.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Night had set in, and it was intensely dark, owing to the cloudy and misty weather; and about half-past eight we took up our line of march, following the main road, leading up the mountains toward Tampico el Alto.  Not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:a sound was to be heard, save the tramp of the men and an occasional low curse or growl at the steep and slippery condition of the roads.  In this way we had continued an unbroken march for about an hour and a half, when I called a halt to allow the men a short rest.  They had scarcely come to a stand, when I heard an unusually heavy peal of a bell in the distance, that told the hour of ten.  It then, for the first time, crossed my brain that Tampico el Alto might be something more than a collection of huts.  I called the guide, and through my interpreter, interrogated him as to the size of the town of Tampico el Alto.  He informed me that it was a large place; and when asked how many inhabitants it contained, he replied, over four thousand.  The thought flashed through my mind that there was a chance for me either to distinguish or extinguish myself and the twenty brave companions that were with me.  But I hesitated.  My life was my own, and if I saw fit to barter it for that bubble called fame, the trade was mine, and none could complain.  But the other twenty; had I a right to hazard them on a desperate venture? that was the question.  My order was to throw out a scout in the direction of Tampico el Alto, to prevent our little command being surprised.  Surely my orders would not justify the rash scheme that I was contemplating, to wit, the assault upon, and capture of Tampico el Alto, under cover of this dense darkness, with my little force of twenty men.  I gave my orders for a forward march and began maturing a mode of attack on the place, and calculating my chances of success.  It ran something like this:  The soldiers are probably camped out of the town, and are controlled by the civil authorities of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>On the southern slope of the mountains, and within one mile of us, lay the information wanted; and for one, I thought the bait too tempting to be denied.  I ordered a halt, called the command around me, and told them there was a great mystery hanging over the command at Tampico as to whether or not there was an organized enemy at Tampico el Alto, and if so, as to their real numbers and probability of an attack upon our forces; what should we do?  Before us lay the long lines of light, showing to a certain extent the size of the town.  I asked the men what their feelings were on the subject; should we make the attempt to dispel the mystery?  when with one accord they said, "Lead on, and we will follow wherever you think best to go!"  I then called my guide, and from him I learned that there were two alcaldes and many priests in town.  I directed him to lead me to the principal alcalde, and we commenced a rapid march for the city.  As we entered the suburbs, I ordered a double-quick, and we went thundering down the rough-paved streets like a command of cavalry.</P>
189.sgm:<P>After marching for some distance down the street, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:the guide pointed out a large building as the residence of the principal alcalde.  As we were rapidly approaching it, I saw something white flit across the street before us, and, on approaching the house, we were informed, on inquiring, that his highness had just stepped out.  Thinking he had slipped through our fingers, I directed the guide to lead us to the principal priest.  He at first resisted, but I admonished him of danger more near than priest's curses, when he led off.  We caught his holiness just as he was retiring, and informed him that he was wanted--that we were Americans.  He seemed to be very much affrighted at the name <HI REND="italics">Americanos</HI>
189.sgm:<P>I trudged along with the priest up to the public square, or plaza, where there was a large building, inclosed by double walls.  We entered the gates, and in a short time his holiness had opened rooms sufficient to quarter at least five hundred soldiers.  When I informed him that the room already at our command was sufficient for our troops, and seeing that we had a position where we could, for a time, resist Santa Anna and all his forces, I released the padre, and threw myself down to attempt to get a little rest.  Before retiring, however, sentinels had been placed at both outer and inner gates, thus <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>In less than an hour there was a challenge at the outer gate; I hastened to ascertain the cause, and found a delegation from the alcaldes, saying that they wished to see the commandant.  I well knew that it was no time to show the white feather.  I thrust a revolver in my pocket, buckled on my sword, and taking Lebenstien, my interpreter, followed the delegation across the plaza to what seemed to be a large council hall.  Here I found assembled the two alcaldes, the priest we recently had under arrest, and about twenty of the principal officers of the town.  On our entrance, the ordinary salutations being over, some remark was made by the principal alcalde to Lebenstien, to which he replied, evidently in not the purest Spanish.  The alcalde, then, in good King's English, asked him if he spoke English.  I then advanced and told him if he spoke that language, I could answer for myself; if not as fluently as Paul did before Festus and Agrippa, at least sufficiently so to make myself understood.  Upon this, he remarked that I must be aware that the entering of their town by an armed force required some explanation.  I promptly answered that my mission was, if they offered no resistance, to protect; but if hostile, to reduce their city.  He said, "By what authority?"  I answered, "By the authority of the American Republic, and a force of one hundred men, sufficient to reduce any city in Mexico."  A smile crossed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>The principal priest then filled a large foot glass, the largest I had ever seen, with wine (and as I thought, resembling the "cup of Hercules"), and presented it to me to drink.  I gave them to understand they must first try their own poison, which the alcalde readily understood; and after drinking to our commander, passed it, in which I pledged the alcalde and officers of Tampico el Alto.  The alcalde then asked if they could be of any service to our command; I told him if he would furnish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I took my leave of him about one o'clock, and assured him that I should return with my force early the next morning as quietly as I had entered the place.  This I did, and at eight o'clock in the morning was with Company I at Pueblo Viejo.  The same afternoon I reported myself to General Gates, together with the facts heretofore stated.  I was severely reprimanded, and threatened to be cashiered, for disobedience of orders.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Perhaps it served me right for bursting the bubble, as General Gates' report showed that Tampico el Alto had fallen into the hands of the Americans, and there being now nothing to threaten Tampico, so large a force was no longer needed; consequently we soon received orders to join General Scott before Vera Cruz.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>AMONG the troops concentrated and designed to march upon the Mexican capital, was the regiment under Walker.  The command was known as the Texas Rangers.  I had often heard Walker spoken of as a daring officer, and one who had long been imprisoned by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I find that history has said but little in regard to him, and I cannot throw much light on the subject further than this: I know that he led the advance in the line, captured San Juan, routed a small band of guerrillas at the Robber's Bridge, sacked and partly demolished Santa Anna's <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:<P>During the war between Texas and Mexico, Walker and his brother were attached to a command who were captured and made prisoners by the Mexicans, and after a long and harassing march and untold privations, reached the castle of Perote, where they suffered a long and solitary imprisonment, until at length the prisoners became a burden to the powers that were, and they finally came to the determination to rid themselves of the burden.  There being no exchanges to be made of prisoners, with that wanton cruelty and hatred at that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Walker, before leaving the castle at the dead hour of night, deposited a ten-cent piece beneath the foot of the main flag-staff of the castle, and, with uncovered head, upon his bended knees, in the presence of his God and the stars that twinkled above him as solemn, silent witnesses, there he registered his vow that, should his life be spared, at some future day he would come in triumph or die in the attempt.  The war between the United States and Mexico had offered him the opportunity to make an attempt to carry out his pledge, an opportunity he was not slow to embrace.  After the castle was taken and after blood and carnage were stayed, our hero again, with reverential awe and uncovered head, devotedly knelt at the foot of that flag-staff and removed his talisman of evil (to the Mexicans) amid the congratulations and cheers of his companions-in-arms, as the stars and stripes, the emblem of America's great nation, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>To the right of the road leading to Puebla, about twelve miles distant, lies the important town of Huamantla, where was garrisoned quite a force of Mexicans, and it was thought proper to reduce the place.  Colonel Walker, with his rangers, was ordered to advance upon the town, throw out a skirmish line and contrive to occupy the Mexican force until the infantry and artillery should arrive; but contrary to orders and caution against recklessness, Walker, in approaching the city, charged, sword in hand, when a sharp conflict ensued.  The Mexicans were routed, and Walker took possession of the place.  But at this juncture Santa Anna, with eighteen hundred black horse cavalry, made his appearance over the hill from the north side of the town and made a desperate attack upon Walker's command.  But Walker was not found napping.  He met the charges in battle shock, and in a few minutes a large number of the Mexicans was placed <HI REND="italics">hors du combat</HI>
189.sgm:, while the balance left the field in the utmost confusion and with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Now, having gone forward to dispose of poor Walker, I will return to the main thread of my story.  The little town of San Juan was situated on a small creek twenty-one miles from Vera Cruz, on the road leading by the way of the National Bridge.  On our arrival at San Juan we found nothing but blackened embers where the town had once stood.  Walker was in advance.  It was a very good camping-place and we were camped there for several days.  It was at this place that our regiment lost its first man after landing at Vera Cruz.  Up the creek about a mile and a half, in a beautiful wooded country, was situated one of Santa Anna's many <HI REND="italics">haciendas</HI>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>The buildings had become the head-quarters of a band of guerrillas, numbering about one hundred and fifty, who came down and made a sudden descent upon us at break of day.  The pickets were driven in, the camp was astir, and the long roll was sounded; soon all were under arms and ready for fight, but no enemy was to be found.  The menace was harmless, as no one was hurt.  One company of our regiment was camped a little below us, towards the creek.  There was a grove just out of musket range of this company.  This company had been recruited in the southern part of the State of Illinois.  The captain was sixty-five years of age (I have forgotten his name), and his company looked upon him as a kind of father to them, rather than as a commanding officer.  About four o'clock the next afternoon this band of lanceros filed out from the grove and made a sudden dash on the old man's company, and, forming a line, by a skillful maneuver, nearly half the command poured a shower of escopet balls into the camp.  The casualty was small, one man being shot through the head, while some three or four were slightly wounded.  The company was not, as you might suppose, thrown into confusion, but delivered into the ranks of the running enemy a well-directed fire, which sent some five or six horses away riderless, while one horse did not get off the ground.</P>
189.sgm:<P>As soon as the enemy had made good their retreat, the old captain came rushing into the main camp, his eyes almost starting from their sockets, his nostrils expanded, his face flushed, and great drops of perspiration rolling down his cheeks, exclaiming, "Now something must be done; they have killed John; they have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>On consultation it was thought most advisable to send out spies, and, if possible, find their rendezvous, which was accordingly done, when we ascertained that they had possessed themselves of the <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm: before referred to.  Accordingly two companies were detailed for a night expedition.  Companies I and G were detailed for the service, and as soon as night had fairly set in, the command was on the march.  We had procured a plan of the grounds and the situation of the stables, as well as their relation to the <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:.  The command was to be divided.  One company was to go on the east side of the mansion and slip in between the shrubbery and the house, and the other company was to come up on the south side and make a bold attack, the force on the east side to prevent them from reaching their horses.  But, by some mistake, the company that was to attack from the south side, got clear around on the west side, and from some cause, I know not whether from a sentinel or by accident, the alarm was given.  The guerrillas, as might have been supposed, rushed for their horses, while our men, on the east, attempted to cut them off from their stables.  The affair was of short duration.  The party which was to have kept <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>The building was then entered and proved to be well filled with beautiful and very valuable furniture, containing.  French mirrors, glass more than a half inch in thickness, inclosed in beautiful mahogany and black ebony frames, fine rosewood and mahogany chairs, sofas, ottomans, etc.  The building was a rather rumbling structure and apparently fitted up in haste, and seemed to be a favorite resort of the one-legged veteran.  But we made short work of things there.  We gathered together the most combustible portion of the furniture, piled it in a large room and then applied a match to it.  We also burned the barn and out-houses, leaving no shelter for guerrillas.  From the light made by the burning, we picked up six dead and dying Mexicans.  We returned to camp well satisfied with the first lesson of our guerrilla hunting on the route to Mexico.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In a few days we broke up camp and moved on to the Robber's Bridge, when the Mexicans showed themselves in considerable force.  But a few shot and shell completely dislodged them.  We continued our march until within a short distance of the National Bridge, when we were opened upon by a strong fort just above the bridge, on the river and on the opposite side from us.  Their position was a very strong one, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>As we advanced on the Plano del Rio, the Mexicans blew up the bridge and we were compelled to dig a road down a steep hill, or rather mountain, in order to cross the stream.  However, General Hardy made the Mexicans perform the principal labor.  We crossed the stream and encamped on the opposite side, in a small valley that extended up and down the river at the base of the Cerro Gordo Mountains.  The country hereabout is very rough and rugged, interspersed with deep and dark <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Our principal forces were concentrated at this point, meditating a descent on Santa Anna in his favorite stronghold.  In speaking of our operations here, it is not my intention to reproduce a history of the many hard-fought fields or glorious victories achieved by our soldiery in the war with Mexico; but these are portions of the history of that war that have never been written.  And perhaps I might go much further, and with a great degree of justice, and say that the history of the Mexican war never was written.  Though the historian has dwelt upon the achievements of our forces on many a bloody field; has eulogized the acts of those whom fame has proclaimed immortal, other important events of that history are wholly omitted.  The deeds of daring of those who had influential friends at home to raise their standards for them, have had their colors flying to the breeze and their names emblazoned upon the pages of history; but who shall chronicle the record of the friendless captain, lieutenant, non-commissioned officer or private, who there offered up his life as a sacrifice upon the altar of his country?  Nor is this the only unwritten history.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I presume there are many who will remember our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Scott hastened on and assumed command and continued the countermand until he matured his plans of attack, and with the consummate skill for which he is so justly renowned, he soon discovered that the mountain <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>But before passing entirely from Cerro Gordo, I cannot help mentioning one fact connected with Scott's order for the battle fought at that place, and the way it was carried out.  Of course it was published and reached the House of Lords in England.  When the Duke of Wellington read it, he uncovered his head and arose in his place in the House and said:  "England in her more prosperous days has achieved victories; France, under Napoleon, was the pride of the world; but Winfield Scott, of the United States Army is the first man who has ever reduced war to a science."</P>
189.sgm:<P>That general order was not the only thing that should have called forth the admiration of the whole civilized <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>They not only placed obstructions to prevent our advance, but literally blocked up the roads behind us; in fact, this practice was carried on to such a state of perfection by the Mexicans, that when we compelled them to open the road to admit our trains, it was easier in many places to construct a new road than to clear out the old one.  It was the uniform boast that not one of us should live to tell the story; yet still we pressed on until victory, on many a hard-contested field, at last enabled us to make ourselves masters of their capital, where our flag proudly waved over the halls of the Montezumas, and "these northern barbarians," as they termed us, dictated terms of peace, and settled our troubles with the erring sister republic with honor to our nation and a laudable pride to the actors in the scene.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Under General Scott's general order, Cerro Gordo was fought, and one of the most brilliant victories obtained over a largely superior force, over one-half of the army of the enemy on the field being captured.  It was Scott's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>At Cerro Gordo and near the telegraph station, for more than a month after the great battle, the boys might be seen exploring the dust in quest of Mexican dollars, with which they replenished their purses.  Santa Anna fell back upon Jalapa with a remnant of his defeated and demoralized army, reporting a great victory over the enemy, and making a forced loan of the Mexican merchants at that place, to entirely annihilate the Yankee army.  But he was not permitted to remain long with his shattered forces at that point, but was compelled to make a hasty retreat along the road leading to the city of Mexico, while the victorious Scott occupied Jalapa.  Here our regiment was left to guard and hold the post for some time, while the main army was encamped outside the town.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In this connection, I would remark that there is a most lovely mountain stream flowing to the west of the city, upon which an English company had erected a large woolen factory, employing a great number of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>After leaving this point, we pursued our march <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
189.sgm: for the city of Mexico.  Through a deep gorge at first, then descending quite a high range of mountains, we at length reached the famous pass of Tahoya or Black Pass.  Here the Mexicans rallied and attempted to make a stand.  That point is well calculated to oppose any advancing enemy, as the pass seems to be through the exhausted crater of a volcano, and the whole country for miles around is covered by a sharp <HI REND="italics">pedregal</HI>
189.sgm:<P>The Perote Mountain exhibits one of the most peculiar freaks of nature that I ever saw.  At one point it forms a cone-like peak, upon the top of which is an immense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>This place is remarkable for sudden changes of weather and is consequently very sickly.  The sun may be shining brightly and in fifteen minutes afterwards the rain may be pouring in torrents, and again clearing up as if by magic.  These changes frequently occur a dozen times daily.  The city of Perote contains several thousand inhabitants, yet it presents but a squalid appearance, being built principally of adobe, and the houses generally but one story, rough and hovel-like in their structure.  The castle is about a quarter of a mile from the city and upon a level with it.  The whole works are situated upon a level plain.  Around the castle is a deep moat, which in times of peace is dry, but which is so arranged as to be filled with water at very short notice in case of necessity.  All around inside of the outer wall are immense lions' heads, with their huge mouths open, and at a given signal they vomit forth immense volumes of water to fill the moat.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>The country around, as before stated, being one vast level plain, up to the base of the mountain, and the mountain being beyond range of artillery, there is nothing to command it, and, therefore, in the hands of a careful garrison, it would be a place of great strength, but of no possible strategic value.  The town is of no importance, and both town and castle, from the nature of the country, are easily turned, and there are passes in advance that would be easily fortified, avoiding the danger of guerrilla access or leaving an enemy in your rear; in fact, I could not see what was to support so large a town in that place.  It is too much elevated to produce tropical fruits, and I saw but little cultivation of the soil.  In fact, the plain looked to me to be rather sterile and to be adapted to grazing purposes only.  For aught I know, it may be supported, in part, by mines in the Perote Mountains, but I had no evidence of this.</P>
189.sgm:<P>From Perote, many miles west of us, to the right of our road, lay Mount Santa Cruz, or Mount of the Sacred Cross.  This landmark, as it rises from the level of the plain to a height of some three thousand feet, may be seen for many leagues around, and we tramped a long and tiresome day's march to reach it, finally encamping about three miles to the south of its base, which seemed to be scarcely half a mile distant.  Upon its lofty peak which shot up into the heavens like a spire, had been erected a cross, when the country was invaded by Cortez.  It looked from the plain like two straws placed at right angles, and as we were marching along during the day, a discussion arose among the officers as to how long it would take a man to ascend to the top and bring down a piece of the holy cross.  Some thought two weeks to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>We closed our day's march and camped at a Mexican village of about two thousand inhabitants, called Tepeaca.  When I had finished my supper the sun was almost an hour high.  I went to one Henry Stickler, a member and private of my company, and asked him if he would like a little adventure, stating to him at the same time that I proposed that night to climb the Santa Cruz, and to bring down a piece of the holy cross before morning.  Henry was a well-knit, daring man of about twenty-three years of age, and always ready for an adventure; consequently our arrangements were soon made and we took up our line of march for the base of the mountain, which we expected to reach in about twenty minutes; but as we proceeded the mountain seemed to recede, and night had fairly set in before we really commenced our ascent.  But while there was the least streaking of twilight in the west we shot up the steep ascent like two young eagles.  The full moon was up, but it gave us little light, and as we were on the west side of the mountain, the moon being in the east, it brought the mountain between us and the light.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Still we held our course for the lofty summit, clambering over the immense rocks and bowlders which time had reft from the mountain-side, not knowing but we might start them from their long-used bed and precipitate them and ourselves from their airy station to the plain below.  About two hours' labor brought us to a shoulder of the mountain where we stopped to take a rest, and, with that rest, a general view of our position.  Before us lay the shadows of the mountain stretching <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>But that was not all that we did.  Our command was escorting what was known as the big train, and the Mexicans swore in their wrath that it should never go through.  They had made several raids, but were always defeated, and we knew that guerrillas were hanging on each flank.  As I stood on the summit of Mount Vera Cruz, apparently right at my feet burned our camp-fires.  To the left and over low ranges of hills, burned the enemy's camp-fires; and yet, from appearances, their camps were larger than ours.  We commenced our descent from the mountain, and at half-past four o'clock in the morning we passed through our lines and reported ourselves in camp, bringing the evidence that the cross could be reached in less than twenty-four hours, as well as the important discovery that the Mexican forces were hovering on either flank of our command.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>AS I am writing my own memoirs, and not the history of the Mexican War, I pass on in our advance march by Agua Caliente Huamantla, to the right twelve miles (this is where Walker was killed), and taking Puebla, San Martine, and other villages on the west, from Puebla to the City of Mexico, and at length arrive at a stream high up in the mountains called Rio Frio, or Cold River.  I have seen snow on its banks in the summer.  There is quite a valley in the gorge of the mountains, and, in fact, from the immense height of the Popocatepetl Range, it is comparatively a very low pass that we cross to reach the City of Mexico.  The altitude from the summit to the base I never knew; but it is about that of perpetual snow in that climate.  There is quite a village at Rio Frio, and we stationed our troops there during the war.  The aspect of the place is cold and rather forbidding.  Among other troops stationed there were the Texas Rangers under Col. Jack Hays.  After Walker's death they were of but little importance to the service.  They were not uniformed and but little drilled, but they were rather dreaded by non-combatants of all classes.  Colonel Irwin's right and Captain Little's company of cavalry were also stationed at this place for a long time after the fall of Mexico.</P>
189.sgm:<P>When we had crossed the mountains at this point, we descended into the valley in which is situated the City of Mexico.  I cannot recollect the distance from the base of the mountain to the City of Mexico; but I remember distinctly that there was no town of any note on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Scott's keen perceptions convinced him that it was useless to attempt to enter the city in that way; hence he kept up a feint before Pin&tilde;on, and marched the command around to the south, at the base of the mountains, a distance of sixty miles, when Santa Anna awoke to a realizing sense that he and the fortifications at Pin&tilde;on were "left out in the cold," and that the "northern barbarians" had whipped their forces at Contreras, and were likely to enter the capital on the west, instead of on the east side.  And after taking San Angelo and whipping them at Churubusco, Molino del Rey, and Chapultepec, we did absolutely enter the city from the west, in the face of a large square battery, hastily erected to give us a suitable reception.  And they did make it so warm for us that we were compelled to order up sharp-shooters to run from the pier of the aqueduct until they had the parties within easy range and picked them down from their guns.  As the Mexicans marched out on one side of the city, we marched in from the other, and from the evidence of joy at meeting us, I could not help thinking that they thought we must have been there before.  White flags were waving from every window, and every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>After quiet was restored in the city, I quartered my regiment in the convent of San Domingo, with many others, establishing my office as acting quartermaster and acting assistant commissary at the custom house.  True, the women were all lovely and kind, but many of the men were jealous and hostile, though it was soon discovered that there were a great many Mexican men who got badly pricked with the side-arms of officers, and that called forth an order forbidding officers off duty to wear their swords, which order was strictly enforced; yet there was a fine lot of 5x8 steel bars in the city, and when polished and pointed and ingeniously fixed into a hilt, they made a very fair defense against toads, and each of us soon had a toad-stabber.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The city is built on a square, with streets generally of a respectable width, and also contains several public squares or plazas, which is one of the prettiest features of Mexican towns of any note.  The drainage of the city is below and along the center of each street, and discharges the contents into the moat that surrounds the city.  The present State house, or palace, is a very imposing structure, and is situated on the east side of the main plaza, and almost adjoining this is the museum in which is deposited many robes of fine texture and furs of every description, bows, arrows, javelins, and other weapons, they being arms and clothing claimed to have been preserved from the days of the Aztec race; but what struck me as the most curious of all the relics, was an immense copper man and horse, standing on a pedestal of colossal size, the whole weight of which must be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>There is a series of galleries from the bottom to the top, the rooms all fronting inwards on this immense court; around which verandas are built, as before stated.  The rooms run through to the outer walls, through which many of them are lighted by windows.  The inner porches or verandas, as well as many of the rear rooms, are filled with gaming tables, which as a general thing are filled each night with players.  I have often witnessed the old don marching ahead of his servant, who followed with his small iron trunk loaded with its golden freight of doubloons.  On one occasion I watched the betting of one who came in thus provided for, at a monte table, and remained a quiet observer from nine o'clock in the evening till two in the morning.  The old fellow was out of luck, and I saw his sack of doubloons gradually melt away.  I saw him stake seventy-two doubloons on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>The south side of the plaza was principally occupied by stores, while on the north side was situated the famous cathedral of Mexico.  I never made myself thoroughly acquainted with the outside of the city.  There were three things which prevented it:  First, though the city was in the hands of the Americans, it was all that a man's life was worth to ramble off in the outskirts alone; secondly, I was very busy while there; and thirdly, my right arm was in a sling, and I was not very well able to defend myself in case of trouble.  And hereby hangs a tale which I thought I would leave untold, or rather leave it for others to tell; but as I am writing of my own personal adventures, perhaps it would not be right for me to omit it.</P>
189.sgm:<P>There was no one better acquainted with the fact than the Mexicans, that commissary and quartermaster stores were hard to get by an American army invading Mexico, and, consequently, they were ever on the alert to cut them off.  I was acting quartermaster, and, following up our brilliant successes with our supply train, with a mounted guard of two hundred men <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
189.sgm: from Contreras to Churubusco, when at a short distance from San Angelo, I saw a command of from five hundred to six hundred lancers coming up on a brisk trot and their leader bravely riding in advance of the column.  In fact, he was so far in advance that I thought he wanted a parley.  I rode out towards him, when he immediately drew and charged out to meet me.  I drew my saber <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>His first attempt was to cut my rein.  Finding that I was no novice in the art, and I, about the same time, discovering that I had more in my man than I had bargained for, business commenced in earnest.  We both held ourselves close on our guard, while we rapidly plied our cuts and parried with all our skill.  I pinked him a little in the right side by an interpoint that he had not fully parried, when he rose in his stirrups, dealt me an over-hand cut, which I had not found laid down in our tactics (hence I claimed it out).  I tried to parry, but his blade followed mine down to the hilt, severing my guards like straws, and buried his blade deep in my wrist and palm, severing the cords and pulsating artieries of the palm, and being heated by my exertions in the fight the blood spurted for many feet, and full in the face of my adversary; but, unfortunately for him, he had buried his blade so deep in my guards that he could not immediately withdraw it, and by suddenly turning my arm and by a rapid motion of my left hand, retaining my rein, I seized my revolver and opened fire.  When <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:I had discharged four shots in rapid succession, such had been his exertions that he had withdrawn his blade to within six inches of the point.  During this contest, there had been no advance, nor was one shot fired by either command; but when they saw his saddle empty a most deafening shout went up from my men.  I wheeled my horse, ordered an advance, and rode through the lines to the rear.  The first volley from our carbineers was at point blank range.  Still advancing and drawing their holster pistols, they literally fired into the enemies' faces, while they were blazing away with their old escopets with but slight damage to my command, and by the time we came to the saber, the foe was in rapid but demoralized retreat.  My boys would have pursued their advantage further but I did not allow them to do so, as my duty only extended to the protection of my train.  As it was, I never saw as many men <HI REND="italics">hors du combat</HI>
189.sgm: for the length of time and numbers engaged, the whole affair after their leader fell, not occupying more than ten minutes; but I could no longer keep my saddle, and was borne to the rear, when it was discovered, from the great loss of blood, that they could not take up the arteries, and the surgeon was compelled to give me alcohol to raise a pulse so as to enable him to take them up.  It was found on examination that twenty-seven of the enemy were dead on the field, beside fifty-two wounded prisoners.  And thus ended the hottest little time I ever experienced in Mexico.  And though I never have been able to boast of much good luck, I congratulated myself here as having made a very lucky escape with the comparative loss of the use of my right hand.  It is true that it was unfortunate for me, and equally so for those who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Our command was stationed in the convent of San Domingo, near the custom house.  This is one of the most perfect labyrinths that I ever saw.  A regiment of men could be lost in it.  I made it a point never to occupy more space than was needed to quarter my men; and this fact was always appreciated by the padres.  Consequently, they and myself were on the best of terms.  I always guarded as much as possible against that spirit of vandalism that pervaded the army.  The building covers two blocks, having been arched over a street which runs under a portion of the vast structure.  In discussing the magnitude of the building, I heard a wager offered and refused that a man could not step into and write his name in each room, in twelve hours.</P>
189.sgm:<P>One of my friends, a principal among the padres, kindly offered to take me through and show me the chapels.  The day was appointed, and we commenced our tour of inspection.  I went through nine different chapels in the building, but I was so much indisposed that I was forced to quit my promenade for that day, and I never afterwards had an opportunity to finish up the exploration.  The chapels which I visited were ornamented with great taste and the appointments without regard to cost.  There were many of the most beautiful chandeliers that I ever saw, with many other cut-glass ornaments, which I was assured were all the handi-work of the padres.  There was also a great number of exquisite paintings adorning the walls, which were also the work of the padres and the nuns.  While passing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>IN the City of Mexico I was filling three important offices, to wit, acting quartermaster, acting assistant commissary of subsistence, and ordnance officer, yet I had much of my time to myself while in camp or garrison.  The condition upon which I accepted the appointments was that I should have the privelege of going into the command and selecting therefrom just such assistance as I needed; accordingly I had selected three clerks, one for the quartermaster department, one for the commissary, and one for the ordnance department, and they were all men much more competent in a practical business sense than myself.  Consequently I had but little more to do than to sign vouchers and make my reports to Washington.  We had not been in the city more than a month, when, during my leisure, I had visited the cathedral, the halls of the Montezumas, Chapultepec, the aqueduct, and other prominent places in and about the the city, with various other adventures unimportant to my narrative.  But at last I stumbled upon one which I think is worthy of relating, and consequently I give it a place.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Near the center of the city is a magnificent plaza, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:public square, ornamented with low shrubbery, water fountains, flagged walks, low palms, and rustic seats; and outside of these is a nice flagged walk for pedestrians; then, outside of that, a small border of grass, about four feet wide, with low curbing, some four to six inches above the level; and again, outside of all, is a lovely carriage drive, where myriads of fine carriages are, through the day and until late in the evening, constantly driving.  One pleasant afternoon I was strolling leisurely around this plaza, when I noticed a magnificent carriage drive past quite close to where I was walking, and I also noticed that, as it approached me, the horses (two beautiful blacks) slackened their pace and kept along on a walk for some time.  But as I was lounging and stopping every few steps, admiring shrubbery, etc., I paid but little attention further than to notice that the carriage mended its pace as soon as it passed me.  I thought no more of it, and had commenced retracing my steps, when again I was attracted by the splendid equipage, and, as before, when it approached the spot where I was, again the pace was slackened.  I then noticed that there were but two persons connected with the vehicle--the driver outside, and a female dressed in black, and shrouded in a thick black veil.  As before, after they passed me, the carriage increased its pace.  By this time my curiosity was thoroughly aroused.  I continued for some time in the place where they passed me, when I slowly continued my walk, and, for the third time, I noticed the carriage approaching, and again slackening its pace.  This time, when it came opposite to me, the lady passed her white handkerchief before her face, and quite naturally dropped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I made my way to head-quarters, called my man Lebenstein, my interpreter, and the card proved to be a request to call at a certain street and number that evening.  Lebenstein insisted that I must not go, as there was treachery at the bottom of the matter.  I pretended to coincide with his views, although secretly determining to investigate the matter.  Accordingly, the first thing I did was to find the street and number, and discovered that it was in the most fashionable part of the town, and but a short distance from my quarters.  My next move was to confide the matter to two trusty friends, Sergeant Efner and Henry Stickler, and, after some deliberation, it was arranged that they were to patrol in front of the building, ready to catch the first alarm in case of treachery.</P>
189.sgm:<P>At nine o'clock sharp, we all went on the ground; I rang the bell at the outer gate, and was promptly admitted by a female servant, who conducted me through an arched passage to an inner court.  I was not long in discovering that I was entering the premises of wealth and luxury.  The court was large and commodious, with a beautiful jetting fountain in the center, statuary stationed at intervals, and two or three orange trees, which are quite common in that country.  All around this court were projecting balconies, covered over by the upper roof, with hanging lamps that lighted up the whole place.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I followed the servant up a flight of stairs to the first floor, where I was ushered into a most magnificent drawing-room, when the girl informed me that her mistress would be in presently.  She withdrew, and in less than a minute the object of my adventure made her appearance, and, O ye gods! what an appearance!  I had seen women in dreams, in story, and in reality; but nothing in point of beauty and loveliness equal to the being that now stood before me.  Remember that I was young and impressible, and internally exclaimed, "A goddess!"  She moved toward me with all the grace of a sylph, with embarrassment upon her countenance offering an apology for her seeming boldness in inviting a stranger to call on her at that hour, and assured me that secresy in the matter could only secure her protection.  I stammered out something, I know not what, in reply.  But she soon made me understand that business also had dictated her course, and when seated, she attempted to enter upon a more elaborate explanation, stating that her business was of such a nature that, in those troublesome times, she could not entrust it to the Mexican authorities, and that she had no friend among the Mexicans to whom she could confide her troubles; that being near my quarters she had often seen me, and had made up her mind that if I would befriend her, she would confide in me.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I assured her of my willingness to do all in my power to aid and protect her against wrong and intrigues; but as she spoke no English, and I but little Spanish, it was impossible for me to learn the true condition of things, except through an interpreter.  She had already informed me that she had been a wife; that her husband <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>At eleven o'clock I took leave of my goddess, with many kind assurances, and met my companions at the street gate, who scolded me for keeping them on guard so long.  To satisfy the boys, we repaired to an oyster saloon, took a stew, and then went to quarters, where an adjutant from General Butler bore marching orders for our regiment, the next morning at five o'clock.  I shall not attempt here to analyze my feelings.  I first rushed to Colonel Hick's headquarters and begged him to let me remain on leave for two days, when I would follow.  But, as I expected, my efforts were unavailing; for as acting quartermaster the regiment could not move until I had put it in motion.  I then flew back to the house of my angelic one, range the bell several times, but could get no response, and was compelled to give the matter up at least for that time, trusting to the chapter of accidents to make it right.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Our destination was the city of Puebla, where we arrived on the sixth day, and it took me about one week to get the regiment fairly quartered.  At the end of that time I applied to Colonel Childs, military governor at Puebla at that time, for permission to return to the City of Mexico on an eight-day furlough.  He refused to let me return to the city, saying that I could have my business done through the department at the city.  I then forwarded a like request to General Scott (who had always been my friend).  He gave me leave of absence for eight days.  I joined a party of officers, and in three days thereafter I was in the City of Mexico.  I waited until nightfall and then repaired to the residence of my lovely unknown.  I rang the bell, but to no purpose; and after a long investigation and thorough exploration of the surroundings, I became fully satisfied that I was the only person about the premises, and that the house was closed.  The three weeks that I had been unavoidably detained, I found had separated me from my fair one forever.  Of her fate and fortune I have never learned a word; but such beauty as hers, her pleasing manner and address, would be sure to command friends everywhere.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I was determined, while on this trip, to revisit the battle-field of Contreras.  In accordance with that notion, I tried to raise a small party of officers to accompany me from the city.  The distance, as well as I can now remember, was about nine miles.  After considerable effort I failed to get any one to venture out; consequently, I thought I would venture as far as San Angelo, that being our outpost, and trust to luck to get company from there.  I therefore mounted my horse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>But I had made up my mind to go, and go I did, against the remonstrances of all.  I rode out there without adventure, and when I reached the field, I dismounted and unbuckled my sword and fastened my sword-belt around the horn of my saddle, and was leading my horse over the field on the east side of the sod embankments, looking for some memorial to take from the battle-field.  As I stooped to pick up some brooches from a Mexican cap, two shots were fired in rapid succession.  My horse sprang, reared, and pulled away from me, and ran like a frightened deer towards San Angelo, which, by the way I passed in coming to Contreras, caused him to perform quite a circuit in following the road around the hill, while I ran straight down the hill and attempted to intercept him.  When about half-way to San Angelo, I met a non-commissioned officer with twelve men, who had been sent out to look for my body.  They were leading my horse, but expected that if they found me, they would find me dead.  The shots were fired from quite a distance, and I thought no more of the matter.  The horse in running had thrown out one of my holster pistols, which, of course, was lost.  With that exception, all was right.</P>
189.sgm:<P>When I reached San Angelo I treated the boys at the post and took my departure for the city by the way of Tacuba, which place I had passed about one mile, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I exhibited the rent to some brother officers, and told them of the occurrence, when one of them asked me if my horse was not struck, causing him to jump and run away from me as he did.  I said I had not examined him.  We went to the stable, and upon examination we found that a bullet had passed across his rump, cutting about half the thickness of the ball, making an ugly wound about four inches long.  While we were yet conversing, a courier arrived from Tacuba, stating that a band of guerrillas had murdered a major and captain, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Major Young and a party of officers being about to return to Puebla, I joined the party, making six of us, all told.  We set out on a return trip, and about six o'clock in the evening we arrived at a little wayside inn or half-way place, in the foot-hills of the Popocatepetl, at or near the entrance of the pass across the mountains by way of Rio Frio.  At this place we found a small number of Frians and others in a state of great excitement.  On inquiry, we learned the following facts: Lieutenant Marsden and wife, with an escort of three mounted men, while on their way to the City of Mexico, and within half a mile of that place, were assaulted; the lieutenant was lassoed, pulled from his horse, and dragged to death, and at the time of the lassoing a volley was fired from the brush, wounding one of the soldiers in the side and breaking one horse's leg, while the assailants rushed in, seized the lady's horse by the bridle, and soon disappeared in the hills, with the lady a prisoner.  The other soldiers, with their wounded companion, reached the station, and the party returned and found the body of the lieutenant partly stripped and rifled of all valuables.  The body was bruised and mutilated, and in a horrible condition.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We soon determined to pursue the villains, and rescue the lady if possible.  From what we could learn, there were not more than a dozen of them at most.  Our little party numbered six, and the two troopers swelled our efficient force to eight.  There was one old peon, who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:informed us that he knew the location of one guerrilla rendezvous; that it was at an old <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:<P>We gained the rear of the building and discovered a large orange orchard at our left.  Coming up close to the house, there was light proceeding from a broken window.  We ventured a short distance from the window, and after a hasty consultation, we cocked our carbines, and five of us were to approach the window, that being as many as could do execution through the narrow casement, and that only by firing over each other's shoulders, while two gained the front, where we expected them to fly to make their escape.  When all was ready, the signal was given, and we simultaneously discharged our five carbines in their midst.  At that instant a terrific scream was heard inside.  It was by a woman.  As we had anticipated, there was a rush for the front door, where we heard two more shots in rapid succession.  We sprang to the front, saber in hand; but the guerrillas were tearing through the orchard like frightened deer.  Upon entering the house, our passage was obstructed by a dead "greaser" in the doorway.  On entering, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>The next morning, after giving the remains of Marsden as decent a burial as the condition of things would admit, we took our departure and were again on our way to Puebla.  After consultation with Mrs. Marsden, we took her under our charge, and with us she returned to Rio Frio, where she had some acquaintances in the command stationed at that place.  We saw her safely in charge of her friends, when we again pursued our journey without further adventure, till within a few miles of Puebla.</P>
189.sgm:<P>It was dark and we were hastening on to reach the city that night, when, in the distance, we heard what we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>OUR command had now their regular station at Puebla, placed there as a portion of the defense of that city.  This is a most lovely place, situated as it is upon the high table-lands about six thousand feet above the level of the ocean, in the midst of a vast plain, with brooks and rivulets of pure water running through it, and surrounded by snow-capped mountains.  To the west is Mount Popocatepetl and the White Lady, on the same range.  To the southeast is the Orizaba, with its spirepeak, already mentioned.  In this same valley are situated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I have seen, in the city of Puebla, a most beautiful picture of the founding of that town by the angels, some with their tape-lines measuring off the ground, and showing a lovely stream running through its site, while four other angels are descending from heaven and bearing to earth the cathedral of Puebla, one at each corner of the immense edifice.  It is firmly believed by the ignorant Mexicans that the cathedral was erected in a single night by the angels, and a contradiction on that subject renders them very hostile, notwithstanding the fact that it took more than fifty years to complete the structure, while the "northern barbarians" would have completed the work in five or six years.  I was told by parties who pretended to know, that the entire cost of the edifice was something over sixteen million dollars.</P>
189.sgm:<P>There were, at the time I sojourned there, about 80,000 inhabitants in the city, and a prettier, cleaner city I never saw, containing every evidence of wealth and luxury.  The buildings and architecture compared favorably with those of the City of Mexico; but notwithstanding its wealth and beauty, over two-thirds of the whole wealth in buildings and lands is owned by the churches, of which, I believe, there were eighty-seven; in fact, it is the great city of churches.  I do not believe there was ever three minutes, day or night, in which you could not hear the ringing of bells.  In Puebla the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>We had been stationed but a short time in this convent, when one day I felt a severe pain in my throat, the glands about my neck becoming very much inflamed, and I made complaint to our surgeon, Dr. W. B. Whitesides, who was my bosom friend and who had saved me once at Tampico.  I told him I was suffering very much, and if it was popular to die of sore throat, I believed that it would kill me.  The doctor did not seem to know anything about the disease.  My throat continued to swell until it and my chin were even, and I kept scolding about it and rubbing it with opodeldoc and other powerful liniments that I found among the doctor's medicines.  At length it became so swollen that I could scarcely breathe at all.  Night came on and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>There were few attractions in the city for wild, adventurous spirits; but there was one never-failing source of enjoyment, and that was the Passo, or species of plaza.  There were beautiful walks, choice shrubbery, fragrant flowers, and bright, sparkling fountains.  One evening, as Lieutenant Poleon and myself were walking in the Passo, we discovered two men in what appeared to be a deadly combat, one being armed with a saber, the other with a heavy knife, resembling, in breadth and weight, a butcher's cleaver.  We stepped up each behind one of the combatants and pulled them asunder, and arrested both of them.  They yielded to the arrest and we marched them into quarters and placed them under guard.  The one with the saber turned out to be a member of the Mexican police force; the other a noted cut-throat.  The policeman died at the end of two days, and I had the satisfaction of seeing the other hanged.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The monotony of the city finally became unendurable, and one fine morning in the month of April, I rode out of town, resolved upon an adventure of some kind.  I went out of the city on a well-traveled road, not knowing to what point it led.  In fact I never thought of making an inquiry; but it led through a lovely plain, well-settled, with large and handsome houses and well-cultivated fields, bearing orange groves, bananas, plantains, alfalfa, and waving grain, while here and there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I continued my ride to a distance of at least sixteen or eighteen miles, seeing nothing but peons and laborers of different grades; but presently, in the distance, and at the edge of a grove, I noticed what first seemed to be a low grove of small bushes, with a most singular foliage; I continued to ride in that direction, and the nearer I approached, the more singular the appearance.  But in a few minutes the mystery was solved; it was a group of lances stuck in the ground with their streamers waving in the breeze; and I had no sooner discovered the character of the object of my curiosity than the lanceros had discovered and made me out.  While I sat on my horse watching them, the group of lances were hurriedly pulled up from the earth and in the hands of Mexican warriors; and, each mounting a mustang, disclosed the fact that a regiment of lanceros had been luxuriating in the shade of the grove, their horses secreted in the grove, and all taking a rest.  As soon as they were mounted, they made a furious dash across the field for the highway, where I sat upon my horse looking at them as they advanced.  I would have told them, if I had had an opportunity, that they need not hurry so on my account.  They must have held me in high respect; for when I drew my saber and waved them a salute, they returned it by the discharge of a hundred escopets.  I did not wait for further compliments, but concluded I would go back home.  I was mounted on my favorite horse, which was fleet as the wind; and although they were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>As soon as I was entirely safe from their careless shooting, on coming to a little eminence, I wheeled my horse and again waved my saber at them, when they made another vigorous dash for me, when I retreated again in good order.  I thus amused myself beckoning them on to follow me for several miles, until passing a <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:<P>About this time Lieutenant Conkling and myself were taken down with Mexican rheumatism.  It is one of those diseases that seems to be peculiar to the highlands and table-lands of Mexico, and it is one of the most terrible and painful diseases that ever afflicted humanity.  There are hundreds of men in Puebla whose limbs are drawn into all conceivable shapes.  I have seen some poor creatures stalking through the streets with their shoulders drawn down at right angles with their legs; others crawling along the streets upon all fours.  I suffered in every limb and joint the most excruciating <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>We became cross, irritable, and reckless.  I recollect that it was a little cool, and I sent my servant out to get a pottery charcoal furnace to warm the room.  My man got it up, kindled and ready for a warming process; but it did not work to suit friend Conkling.  He picked it up, walked to the balcony and threw it down on the sidewalk, to the infinite amusement of a crowd of beggarly peons, and sent his servant out for another.  He brought it in, and started the fire, when I deliberately picked it up and dashed it from the balcony to the street and immediately sent for another, which was brought, but shared the same fate as the first and second.  We amused ourselves and the street Arabs in this way for a couple of hours, until we had smashed up some twelve or fifteen, when that sport became monotonous (the furnaces only cost about eight cents apiece) and we commenced throwing them <HI REND="italics">clacos</HI>
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189.sgm:<P>We next began to heat the <HI REND="italics">clacos</HI>
189.sgm:.  We would make them red hot, and then throw them to the sidewalk, and it was rare sport to see them grab them and then drop them, until at length they hit upon an expedient.  They would pick them up with the corners of their blankets in their hands, this preventing them from burning themselves.  We ran this for some time, until it began to be stale, when we got another crotchet in our heads.  We heated a shovelful of <HI REND="italics">clacos</HI>
189.sgm:, and dropped them down from the balcony, and when the general rush was made, we emptied a pailful of flour over them.  By this time the street was blockaded for several rods by all classes of the community, all seeming to enjoy the joke.  They would look up at us and call out " <HI REND="italics">mas clacos</HI>
189.sgm:."  We proceeded to heat another shovelful and prepared a pail of flour and a pail of water; and first we threw the <HI REND="italics">clacos</HI>
189.sgm:<P>One afternoon I was suffering outrageously, and I felt discouraged and desperate.  I dressed myself in full uniform, ordered my horse (old Selim), and rode out of the city alone (I never did take my servant, as I would not subject any one else to the risks I ran in those wild rides).  I took the road for Cholula, without any definite idea how far I would ride, or where I would eventually bring up.  When some five or six miles from the city, I began to meet peons, packing large sacks of wood on their backs, going to Puebla.  They viewed me with perfect amazement, and one of them exclaimed, " <HI REND="italics">Donde</HI>
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189.sgm:<HI REND="italics">va V. Sen&tilde;or</HI>
189.sgm:?"  I replied, "Almost anywhere."  They informed me in their lingo that there were many cut-throats and robbers, and that unless I returned, I would be killed.  But as I saw nothing alarming, I continued on my course, passing <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
189.sgm: many ranches and <HI REND="italics">haciendas</HI>
189.sgm:<P>I could not with any safety dismount; consequently I did not try to examine the pyramid, but rode straight on to the city, which, like Puebla, is situated on a vast plain; in fact, the country is one immense plain from the base of the Popocatepetl Mountains to the foot-hills of the Oriazaba Mountains.  I rode straight down the main street of the dilapidated city until I reached the plaza, which lay on the north side of the street.  When at that point, I drew rein on my favorite and took a survey of the place.  The sun was just sinking behind the crest of the Popocatepetl Mountains at the time.  The Mexicans who watched my advent into the town seemed staring more in the direction I had come than at me, when a series of howls and whistles reached me from the populace.  I soon discovered what it meant.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>When I asserted that I had visited the city of Cholula alone, my statement was far from being credited by my fellow-officers who had visited it in company with a strong expedition organized for that purpose.  But I soon convinced them of the truth of my statement by minutely describing the road by streams, hills, and bridges, the location of the pyramid, and more than all, the plaza and some burned buildings on the north side of it, when they with one accord said, "He must have been there."  Conkling, who lay upon his cot groaning, exclaimed, "Yes, if he says he has been there, you may depend upon it, as the d--d fool goes everywhere safely, when one of us would get his throat cut."</P>
189.sgm:<P>A surprise met me on my arrival at quarters, that was very pleasant in some respects and mortifying in others.  The officer said that a young man had called to see me who seemed to have some important business with me, and said that he would be back in a short time.  I was not kept in suspense long, for the visitor was presently announced, and to my astonishment my youngest brother, John, whom I had left at home in charge of affairs, seized me by the hand, the tears rushing to his eyes as he did so.  The story was soon told.  The old abolition party, who opposed the war, and threw all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Our Mexican rheumatism still continued to afflict us.  But there was residing in Puebla an artisan who worked gilt ornaments, and whom I had served by filling a commission entrusted to me on my trip to the City of Mexico, and who had through me become acquainted with several of our officers, after which he often visited our quarters.  On being informed of our condition, he called on me and said if I would furnish the cost of the medicine he would provide a remedy that would cure us.  I did not have much confidence in it, but in our extremity we were prepared to try almost anything.  He bought the medicine; it was a transparent liquid and very penetrating, and was almost strong enough to blister.  In this we both bathed our limbs, and the result was that in less than ten days we were entirely cured of the dreadful scourge.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>IN Mexico, the ideas of family residences are unlike our own notions.  We prefer living on the ground floor of our residences; they like to live as high up as they can get.  My quarters in Puebla were in the third story of an extensive building, with stairs leading to the roof.  I could not utilize one-half of the vast structure, so I assigned quite a large portion of it to officers of our regiment.  There are, as a general thing, ornamental balconies at each story of the buildings; and that was the case with our quarters.  Immediately across the street from us lived an aristocratic Castilian, whose name I learned was Queretaro.  He was President of the Mexican Senate, and was absent on his official business.  We formed a kind of eye acquaintance with the family from the opposite balconies, and in a short time I was honored with a visit by a boy about fourteen years old.  He informed me that his name was Edwardo Queretaro, and the son of the gentleman who lived across the way.  He had picked up a very few words of English, and with my few words of Spanish, we managed to understand each other very well.  He was delighted with our military trappings, such as sabers, sashes, epaulets, and many other things which were new and strange to him; and, in return, I was much pleased with young Edwardo.  He was very expert with the lasso, and we amused ourselves hours at a time by his throwing the lasso and my attempting to guard against it with my saber; but I must say I found it impossible <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Things continued in this way about three weeks, only Edwardo became so attached to me that he was with me two-thirds of the time.  At length he became very solicitous that I should visit him.  I assured him that I could not on his invitation, as I was an entire stranger to his family; but before this time he had told me the family at home was composed of his mother, a sister nine years old, and his Aunt Amelia, who was twenty years old.  In three or four days after this, Edwardo told me his aunt wished me to visit them.  I told him if I visited their house the invitation must come from his mother.  The next day he informed me that his mother wished me to visit them.  Consequently I resolved to do so, as I could not doubt that they were ladies and moved in the best society.  I took my interpreter and went over, and was introduced by the boy to his mother and aunt, as his friend.  I remained an hour and was delighted with the ladies; but it was hard to tell who were the most disgusted with my interpreter, the ladies or myself.  He all the time indulged in a twaddle about himself, and failed to interpret one-half of what we wished to say to each other.  When the time came for leave-taking, they warmly insisted on my coming again, and in these words, that the house was mine.  In return, I assured them that I would avail myself of their kind invitation, and that I should bring no interpreter, but that they should all act as my interpreter.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In the first interview they asked me if I was married, and I assured them that I was.  But the next day Edwardo asked the same question of Lieutenant Conkling, and of other officers; they; supposing that they were playing into my hand, assured him that I was not married, and was only joking with them when I pretended to be married.  So when I called again, several days afterwards, I was warmly received by the whole family, and more especially so by Miss Amelia, who took upon herself the task of teaching me to speak their language, and no one ever had a more zealous teacher.  I would frequently get off some Mexican phrases, when she would check me and say, " <HI REND="italics">Este no bussna; este lingua lotros indu</HI>
189.sgm:<P>Amelia was very pretty.  She was of medium height, well formed, with a light and elastic step.  In complexion she was a blonde, with a full, deep, blue eye, and as fair as a lily; but I do not pretend to dwell on her perfection, further than to distinguish her from the "greaser" horde.  I had introduced her to a few superior officers, and it was amusing to me to hear Amelia's perfections set forth by them.  The Spanish are a very jealous <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>As I convalesced, one morning I took a walk in the Passo, and had a little chat with an early walker who, as well as myself, was out to take the air.  She was a young Mexican girl of the better class.  She arranged a button-hole bouquet and pinned it on the breast of my uniform.  On my return I met Amelia, and as soon as she saw the flowers her eyes flashed with fury.  She sprang to my breast like a tigress, seized the flowers, dashed them on the floor, stamped them beneath her little feet, and exclaimed in her own language, "You have no love for me."  She seized her diamond-handled stiletto, passed it to me; and exclaimed, "Here; kill me; I have nothing to live for."  I finally got her quieted down, and asked her what she meant; that I was not conscious of having done anything to offend her or any injustice to her.  She said that a woman had placed those flowers on my breast.  I admitted it, but assured her that I gave the matter no consideration, and did not know that it meant anything more than a little coquetry.  But I then, for the first time, learned that the Spanish language of flowers is more read and better understood than ours.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>After I had quite recovered my health, and was about to return to my own quarters, I told her that they had been at a large outlay for me, and I wished to compensate them for my trouble and expense while there.  Amelia treated my offer with contempt and scorn at first, but soon changed to a flood of tears and assured me that money was the least of her care; that she had plenty of money; she threw me her keys, saying, "Here are the keys of my coffer, if you want money, help yourself; I do not want yours; I did not take care of you for money."  She was an heiress; she and her brother owned three large <HI REND="italics">haciendas</HI>
189.sgm:, and one fine day she asked me to visit one of them with her.  I entered one of their clumsy carriages, and we drove out there.  I was amused and yet perplexed at her, for all that was to be seen or enjoyed was us and ours.  The place was a lovely one; the buildings were magnificent, situated upon a lovely plateau of about one thousand acres.  They were of adobe, containing an inner court with plats of grass and fountains inside.  The whole was inclosed with a high adobe wall, with broken glass cemented in the top, which all the way around inclosed the premises.  This was for protection against the assaults of ladrones and guerrillas.  It was just the place where a man, with that beautiful creature, might content himself to while away a life-time.  She wished me to visit her other two <HI REND="italics">haciendas</HI>
189.sgm:; but I never went out to see them.  The whole family were good and kind people to me, and at the close of the war, when the order came for us to take up our line of march, I hardly knew how to break the news to Amelia; for the four months of our acquaintance seemed to her, so she told me, to be as one bright vision.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>DURING the time I was stationed at Puebla we had had little active service more than scouting and keeping that place and the surrounding country in subjection.  Many of the officers who had never visited the pyramids of Cholula were anxious to do so, and at length we raised a company of commissioned and non-commissioned officers, amounting to about seventy-five or eighty, and one fine morning set out to visit the pyramid and city of Cholula.  We swept over the level plains, and two hours and a half brought us to the city, where I was, on my second visit, in a condition to take notes of the place and surroundings, and soon learned what I had failed to discover on my first visit, that Cholula was the head-quarters of the Catholic clergy.  As we all rode up to the plaza, I noticed a large number of boys, about one hundred and sixty, all swinging censers, and, at the head, two mitred priests.  They were in two files and presented quite an imposing sight.  It must have been some holiday with them.  There was a ditch between us and them; I clapped spurs to old Selim, we scaled the ditch, and in less time than I am writing it, were at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We then made a general circuit of the town; but could see but small evidence of that grandeur we read of at the time of the Spanish conquest.  There were no moss-covered piles or mound walls to impress the minds of the traveler that it had ever been the seat of a mighty empire or the home of kings, outside of the vast ruins of its pyramids; and to this I never gave my attention.  I obtained through my interpreter, from an aged Mexican, this tradition: When the pyramid was intact, it was very high; and long ago the city of Cholula was destroyed by a vast flow of lava from the crater of the Popocatepetl, situated some thirty-six miles west of the city; that Cholula was afterwards rebuilt, and, as there was no hill to escape to, the people built the pyramid to have a retreat in case of another inundation from the fiery flood; that after it had stood for many years, there came a great earthquake and shook it down; that before the earthquake the Popocatepetl was in an active state of eruption, with the lava streams flowing to the valley, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I am aware that some historians speak of a second and smaller pyramid at Cholula; but as for myself I saw but one, and what their imagination has pictured to be a small pyramid, I am fully satisfied is but a portion of the great and only one.  On a close examination, I am convinced that the pyramid of Cholula was once at least three times as high as it is now, and that it has fallen to the north and left quite a long mound, which, if solid, would be a cone with its base to the standing part of the pyramid.  I was more fully convinced on examining the corresponding parts of the pyramid and comparing them with the fallen portion.  It is asserted by most writers on the subject that the pyramid is built of unburned brick; as to the truth or falsity of this allegation, I cannot say, as I could at no point discover any shape of adobe or brick; but the principal ingredient forming this immense pile is a hard clay, resembling in texture the adobe used by the Mexicans in constructing their houses; but it is no harder than the uncultivated earth of the valley in summer; but there is one thing that I think is not noticed by any writer, and that is that mingled with the general mass composing the pyramid are thousands and probably millions of small images of everything that walks, hops, creeps, swims, and flies, that is known to that country.  I commenced digging with a short sword, and in an hour's time I had dug out of the standing pyramid and <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
189.sgm: of the fallen portion, at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The location of the town of Cholula was well chosen, the soil in the vicinity is fertile and productive, with brooks of clean, fresh water wending through the valley; and while I say that the town was never of the magnitude that writers claim for it, yet there are evidences to show that it has been much larger and more flourishing than it is at the present time.  After having spent the day in investigating the town and pyramid of Cholula, our company returned to Puebla without accident or adventure further than related.</P>
189.sgm:<P>At the entry of the Americans into Puebla, or the "city of churches," the immense wealth of the clergy has been hastily considered, the wealth consisting of gold and silver plate, ornaments, and jewels, which amounted in value to many millions of dollars.  This wealth found hiding-places inside and outside of the city limits at the time of the capitulation of the city to the Americans.  The bishop had a palatial mansion about three miles south of the city, where it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>At this juncture a padre came up, who said "that the grounds were private and strangers were not admitted."  I apologized and said I was attracted to the spot by the beauty of the grounds and had no idea of interfering with private property, and it was sufficient for me to know that the public were excluded.  Whereupon the padre very courteously invited me to dismount, and ordered the peon to take charge of my horse.  We walked together over the most artistically arranged grounds that I had ever visited since my arrival on Mexican soil.  There was a beautiful grove of orange trees loaded with ripe, yellow oranges, interspersed with green fruit and blossoms.  On the other side of the walk was a large grove of lemon and lime trees; and further along the walk was on one side a grove of olives, while upon the other side were bananas and other fruits.  At the end of the walk we came to the baths, which were supplied <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Probably about four weeks after the adventure last narrated, one night about nine o'clock the colonel's orderly came to my quarters with a note requesting me to call at the colonel's quarters forthwith, on a matter of importance.  I complied with the request.  On my arrival there I found about twenty-five commissioned officers in attendance, who I soon learned had been called together for a business meeting, which had been for some little time in session; and when introduced, I was requested to pledge myself upon the honor of an American officer that, in case I should not be in sympathy with the move about being inaugurated, I would not expose the scheme, or the name of any individual connected with it.  To this I gave a qualified consent, stating that unless there was something treasonable in it, or involving my honor as a man, I would remain silent and ignorant of everything that occurred there that evening.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>Upon this promise I was let into the secret of the meeting, or rather organization, which I found to be as follows:  They had learned, by information entirely reliable, that the diamonds and most valuable portion of the church wealth at Puebla had been collected together and deposited at the bishop's <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:; that some time before, the padre had been corrupted by some of the officers, and at their instigation had wound himself into the good graces of the bishop and the attaches of his <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:, and now was resident there; that he, for a stipulated fee, was to give the parties in the plot access to the inside as well as outside, and that it was, in reality, a kind of second Gibraltar; that there was an abundance of arms and ammunition, and about twenty resolute men to use them; that the plan, as far as developed, was that every one there was to make one of a party to attack and rob the bishop's <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:<P>All this was minutely detailed to me, showing that their plans had been well matured, and they further assured me that in case success crowned our efforts we should all be millionaires; that there had been several meetings, and the thing had been fully discussed; that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I was perfectly astounded at the idea of the thing, and the cool atrocity contemplated, as well as the proposition that I should become the leader of a band of thieves; for I could not bring myself to look upon it in any other light.  I told them that under any other circumstances I should be very thankful to them for the honor that such an appointment would confer, but that I could not thank them for such an offer of preference, and that, under no circumstances, could I be induced to take any part in the matter; that I held a commission under one of the proudest Governments in the world, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I took leave of the party, returned to my quarters, and that was the last of the expedition; but since that time and since the close of the war, I have ofttimes been thanked by my companions for the stand I took on that occasion.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>ABOUT the latter part of April, 1848, as the war was drawing to a close, there was a considerable force of Mexican and American deserters assembled in a large <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:, on the east side of the Orizaba Mountains, and were making constant incursions into the surrounding settlements, robbing Mexicans and small detachments of troops, and we came to the conclusion that it was necessary to dislodge them.  For this purpose a small volunteer force from the command stationed at Puebla determined to perform that service.  The volunteer command consisted of about two companies of the Sixth Illinois Infantry, which, under Colonel Collins, composed the expedition.  We were to be guided by a woman and her son, who claimed to know the country and the exact location of the robbers' den, which was said to be some forty miles from Puebla.  Accordingly the command took up its line of march about daylight, under the guidance of the woman and her son.  Lieutenant Poleon and myself were to be of the expedition, but were detained in settling up some matters in connection with a court-martial held on the previous day, until about nine o'chock in the morning.  But, having learned that the command would pass <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
189.sgm:<P>The first whom we overtook were Lebenstein and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:wild Irishman, whom we called the "flying dispatch."  A Mexican was pleading with the Irishman to give him his <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
189.sgm: (a blanket with a hole in the center to go over the head).  I said to him, "Have you got the Mexican's blanket?" seeing he had a Mexican <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
189.sgm: hanging over his arm.  He replied, "No; shure, I have not."  I asked, "Where did you get that blanket?"  "And is it the blanket you mane?  Shure, I bought it of Captain Wight, and gave him two dollars and a quarther for it."  About this time another "greaser" crawled out of the brush, and, " <HI REND="italics">Si Sen&tilde;or, la serape es el otros hombres</HI>
189.sgm:<P>We were within the walls of a town of considerable size, all of whose inhabitants were hostile to us, and before we were settled in our quarters, news was brought in from the rear that one man had been picked off and killed by the Mexican marauders.  Some eight or ten of us remounted our horses, and rode back to where we found the man shot and his skull crushed in by a rock.  Continuing our ride to the rear, we immediately gave chase, but took no prisoners.  Captain Armstrong (not of our command), one of the party, was slightly wounded in the leg by an escopet ball.  We returned to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The next morning we resumed our march for our destination.  We marched all day until night, when we began to suspect our guides.  The woman and young man were called to a counsel, when they declared they were lost.  We placed them under guard and continued our march, soon coming to a Mexican hamlet, where we found that we were within two leagues of the place we were seeking.  We pressed a Mexican into our service as guide, and continued our march, which had become very laborious; the roads were rocky and we were winding up through ravines and continuously up the spurs of the Orizaba, and ere we were aware, our last guide had deserted us; but we continued to follow the road, when about two A.M. we came in front of a large <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:, where we halted to make further inquiries.  I had dismounted and thrown myself upon the ground near the walls of the place, holding my horse by the bits, when all of a sudden I heard the report of a gun above me, and a bullet struck the ground about three feet from me.  My horse sprang back and jerked me to my feet, and about this time the bullets from the <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:<P>It was useless for us to return their fire, as they were wholly protected by the walls.  The officers held a hasty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I forgot to state that during the first firing our surgeon came rushing up to me and said, "My horse has broken <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:from me, and run in that direction," indicating by pointing his finger.  I charged off in the direction indicated, and had not ridden more than one hundred yards when a gun cracked beneath a bush, a bullet came whizzing past my ear, and a Mexican started to run!  I charged after him and delivered my holster fire.  He evidently was a guerrilla chief, as he wore a very rich pancho.  I had it for many years; it was stolen from me in Placerville in 1863.  I did not find the surgeon's horse.  We erected a temporary barricade at the front entrance where we had broken down the gate, placed our sentinels, and quartered for the balance of the night.  The Mexicans and deserters kept up a desultory firing all night from the brush and outer walls; we could easily distinguish the Mexican shots from the whiz of the American cartridge in possession of the deserters.  The old don that we had captured, after finding that he was in no immediate danger, became quite cheerful and communicative, informing us that his name was Pedro Sanchez; that a scout had been sent from Tepeaca informing him that a band of Americans was <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
189.sgm: to attack and sack his <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:<P>Thus we learned to a certainty that we had been betrayed by our guides.  The old man denied that he was a robber or that he had harbored any deserters, but that there was a band of Americans about four miles from their encampment in the mountains.  The truth may as well be told here; we had expected to capture a booty of at least forty thousand dollars at this <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:, of which the inhabitants had been robbed.  The premises <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I found a very remarkable picture hanging on the wall.  It was in a heavy black ebony frame with French glass in front of it.  I mashed the glass and took the picture.  It was worked on silk, and was a marvel of artistic needle-work.  I made inquiries of the old don regarding the picture, telling him at the same time that I had robbed his establishment of that alone, as I did not believe that either he or his kind had much use for the Holy Virgin.  He said the picture was quite famous for its antiquity; that it had been wrought by the nuns of the convent of San Domingo in 1675, and was taken by his father in a raid on the City of Mexico, about thirty years before.  I have ever since cherished the picture as a choice gem of antiquity, and have preserved it in all my wanderings, and it is now hanging in my parlor.  The silk upon which it is wrought is cracking and giving way under the destroying hand of time.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But I soon had something of more importance to attract my attention than Mexican works of art, or pretty sen&tilde;oras.  It soon became a fixed fact and known to all, that the great war which had been raging between the republic of Mexico and the United States of America had come to a close, and preparations had to be made for evacuating the Mexican territory.</P>
189.sgm:<P>About the last of May, 1848, as quartermaster, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:received orders to prepare my supply train for the march; to turn over all my camp and garrison equipages, not imperatively necessary for the march, to the quartermaster-general, that they might be destroyed; to prepare a supply wagon for each company, and one for officers' baggage of each company; also, as acting assistant commissary of subsistence, to accumulate such provision as was necessary for supply on the route; and as ordnance officer, to turn over all arms to the general department and take receipts therefor.  I had about forty-eight hours to accomplish this pretty little duty, which would have employed a Hercules for a week; but I was young, active, and energetic, hardly knowing what fatigue was, and I never slept from the time I received the order until we were on the march.  But a little incident occurred, just as we were ready to take up our line of march, which I ought not to omit.  I was in my saddle (and so were most of the infantry officers, many of them having purchased Mexican horses) when I discovered that the baggage wagon of Company K, Second Illinois Volunteers, had disappeared.  I rode up to the captain of that company and rather authoritatively demanded what had become of the wagon.  He replied that he had ordered it to drive on.  I addressed a coarse remark to him, and demanded what right he had to order the wagons to drive on.  He replied with a taunt.  Our sabers sprang from their scabbards the same instant and we made a rush at each other.  We had just crossed swords, when Lieutenant-Colonel Hicks threw his blade between ours, and ordered us both under arrest, and took our swords.  Here everything came to a standstill, as I was the moving spirit of the command, and could not be immediately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>At this time I was discharging the threefold duties of acting quartermaster, acting assistant commissary of subsistence, and ordnance officer of my regiment and six attached companies; and I now took charge of Col. Charles Bruff's brigade, he having been breveted brigadier-general, and we were all of General Patterson's division, of which Colonel Wyncoop was the acting officer.  Bruff's brigade took the advance, and I soon discovered that many of the men who had been taken from the hospitals, and others from having lain long in camp, were giving out on the march, and it was necessary that we have more transportation.  Consequently, I started for the rear, to make arrangements for the wagons.  I then made a ride which I deemed a somewhat famous one, making one hundred and thirty miles, and only out of the saddle long enough to change horses.  I had left the quartermaster's arrangements in the hands of my quartermaster-sergeant, so far as the Illinois Volunteers regiment was concerned.  On my return late at night, I found my quartermaster-sergeant under arrest, by order of Col. James Collins.  On inquiry I found that a lieutenant had attempted to force himself into one of the sick wagons.  The quartermaster-sergeant had resisted his effort.  The sergeant drew his pistol on him, and on complaint of the lieutenant, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The next morning I was out as usual, at three o'clock, waking all the wagon masters excepting those of Collin's regiment, and directing them to wake the teamsters to feed and harness.  All was ready at half-past five o'clock, when we took up our line of march, leaving Colonel Collins and regiment in camp, who began to stir about the time the rest of the command was starting.  I informed Colonel Bruff as to what I had done, and the reason for my action.  He said I was right; that if Colonel Collins saw fit to take the responsibility of interfering with my department, the safe way for me was to let him alone.  I replied to Bruff that Colonel Collins had a right to interfere in my business, as he was my superior officer, but he was responsible to the Government for any injury accruing to the service from such interference, and that I intended to report him in case any damage accrued.  It was not long after this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:conversation when an orderly rode up to me with a note from Colonel Collins, requesting me to return and take charge of the regiment, and bring it up to the rest of the command.  I handed Bruff the note, and said, "General, if you order me to go, I will go; otherwise Colonel Collins must come in person and make the request."  He laughingly remarked, "Do as you please, it is not my quarrel."  I then penned a note to Colonel Collins, to the effect that if he would come to the front, we would negotiate.  In the course of a couple of hours, the old colonel put in an appearance.  It was soon arranged that he was to release Norris, my quartermaster-sergeant, and I again took charge of the regiment.  I found two wagons broken down, and the balance of the wagons that I had procured the day before were filled with soldiers who thought that poor riding was better than the best walking.  I ordered them out, and placed some timber under the hind axles of the broken wagons, and loaded them with hard beef and other light articles, and managed to get through the <HI REND="italics">pedregal</HI>
189.sgm:<P>Nothing further occurred of importance until our arrival in Vera Cruz, when one of my wagon masters came riding up to me, bare-headed, with a deep sword cut in his forehead, the blood running down his face and neck.  He saluted, and said, "This, captain, is what I got for obeying your orders."  I asked him to explain, when he said that he was taking his train of wagons to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MEMOIRS OF THE MEXICAN WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>WE arrived in Vera Cruz about the 12th of June, 1848.  Now all was hubbub and confusion.  On the breaking up of the army of occupation of Mexico, a commissioner had been sent from Washington to assign ships for the transportation of the various commands to New Orleans, and, as acting commissary of subsistence, there was assigned to me the charge of a ship.  Accordingly I reported myself to the commissioner for that purpose.  The commissioner asked for the date of my appointment.  On examining it he said, "Yours is the senior appointment of all who have applied, and hence you will have the choice of ships."  Now Captain Blanding was the acting commissary-general of the command, and had gone aboard of the <HI REND="italics">Massachusetts</HI>
189.sgm: the flag-ship, with General Patterson, without reporting himself to the commissioner.  A brilliant idea struck me.  I replied, "I will take charge of the <HI REND="italics">Massachusetts</HI>
189.sgm:<P>With my receipts in my pocket, and sailing orders for the ship, I repaired to the wharf, where Captain Daniels, quartermaster-general, was superintending the embarkation.  After warmly thanking me for the efficient service I had rendered him, he remarked to me, "I believe you are also commissary of subsistence."  I replied in the affirmative, when he asked me what ship I took charge of.  I replied, "The <HI REND="italics">Massachusetts</HI>
189.sgm:."  He said, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In this connection I may be permitted to say that to Captain Daniels' efforts the army was more indebted for the safe-conduct of the camp and baggage equipments of the army, from the City of Mexico to Vera Cruz, than to any other one officer.  He was active, energetic, and untiring in his line of duty.  And, by the way, I met Captain Daniels in San Francisco about two years ago, and I could hardly bring myself to realize in the old, decrepit, and hoary veteran before me, the active, untiring Captain Daniels of the army in Mexico, in 1848.  But the hand of time rests heavily on all of us, and the probabilities are that he discovered as great a change in me as I did in him.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But to return to my narrative.  The captain said, "I will send you a board with flying colors, in my best cutter.  But I want you, if possible, to report yourself to the captain of the ship <HI REND="italics">Massachusetts</HI>
189.sgm:, and when we meet in New Orleans, tell me how Blanding took the matter."  I gave him my promise, shook his hand, threw a last look back upon Vera Cruz, entered the boat, and was soon skimming over the bright water to the ship, which lay anchored in the roadstead.  When I came on board the ship, I saw General Patterson, Captain Blanding, and a person whom I supposed to be the captain of the <HI REND="italics">Massachusetts</HI>
189.sgm:, all in conversation upon the quarter-deck <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We had a pleasant trip across the Gulf of Mexico, and up the river to New Orleans.  After we had landed, the officers generally took up their quarters at the St. Charles Hotel.  There I met General Taylor, Stephen A. Douglas, and many other notables.  We had a jolly time.  Some one of the officers referred to the joke of the "green sucker" as applied to myself--and heretofore explained--when Stephen A. Douglas remarked that "a few years ago, the `green suckers' would come floating down the Mississippi with their flat-boats loaded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Our command was sent up the river a short distance, and formed an encampment until they were discharged and paid off.  And the first thing we knew, there came a gang of sharpers from the city, waylaying by their runners every soldier who had received his pay and discharge, inveigling him into some low groggery or den, where they would get him drunk and for a few dollars get him to sign away his discharge, with an agreement and power of attorney to collect back pay, and bounty, and all rights and interests that the soldier had in expectancy on account of services rendered the Government.  This was reported at head-quarters, and we received an order to arrest them and turn them over to the civil authorities, as swindlers.  General Taylor remarked, "I think that as they, just at this time, seem anxious to dabble in military affairs, we will give them a small experience, just to initiate them; see that they are `bucked and gagged' for four hours each."  And in less than two hours there were nine of them rolled up, each chewing a bayonet.  This caused quite a sensation among the civilians; but they were soon pacified on Taylor's informing them that, without warrant of law, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>During our stay in New Orleans, Uncle Sam must have footed up some pretty good bills; for about a week all was mirth and hilarity in the city.  Parties were given by the aristocracy of New Orleans every night, and the military officers were all welcome guests; and all of the wealthiest inhabitants seemed to vie with each other in showing the returned soldiers that they were welcome home.  But their glorification came to an end and vanished like a bright elysian dream, for then came the fraternal hand-shaking and heart-burning of separation.  The different commands were each sent home on their proper lines of travel, and in many instances the parting was like that of the nearest and dearest of kin, to say nothing of the hearts that were left and brought away from New Orleans through love's passion during our short stay there.  There was a general order left in New Orleans that no expense be spared in transporting men and officers to their homes.  Accordingly there was an agreement entered into with Captain Taylor, of the steamer <HI REND="italics">Illinois</HI>
189.sgm:, to take our regiment up the river to Alton.  The captain agreed to transport us to that point and give us <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
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189.sgm:<P>We steamed up the Mississippi for two days without an incident worth mentioning.  The third day a circumstance occurred that marred the hilarity and harmony of the remainder of the trip.  The command was under the charge of Lieutenant-Colonel Hicks, a small, wiry man, weighing about one hundred and thirty pounds, while Captain Taylor was a man that stood something over six feet, and weighing about two hundred and twenty pounds.  Hicks had boxed up some specimens of earthenware and other novelties that could be easily broken; and it appeared he had given the captain especial caution regarding them, and the captain had promised to see that they were carefully handled.  I was in the cabin playing a game of cards, when I heard a great noise and excitement on the lower or boiler deck, and the word was passed up that Colonel Hicks and the captain were fighting.  I dropped my cards, sprang to my feet, and rushed out to the forward deck, when I saw Hicks coming up the stairs, looking somewhat pale, followed by the captain.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I said, "Colonel, what is the matter?"  "Well," he replied, "when I put my boxes on board, I told the captain that I wanted them handled carefully, which he promised me should be done, but when below I saw the men on the lower deck knocking them about in such a manner as to break everything in them.  I called the captain's attention to it, and reminded him of his promise to me.  He indignantly asserted that I had told him nothing of the kind, and I called him a liar."  At this the captain sprang forward and exclaimed, "And why did you call me a liar?"  Upon which the colonel retorted, "Because you are one."  The words had scarcely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I now discovered that the colonel had an ugly cut on his forehead.  He then called out, "Norton, where are your pistols?"  I ran and got my hoslter pistols and placed myself in the gang-way, the captain having run to the stern of the boat, as I supposed to arm himself.  At this time the mate and other officers of the boat came up to me and said, "For God's sake, help us to stop this."  I replied, "Take care of your captain; I will vouch for the colonel."  I continued, "The captain has doubtless gone to arm himself, and as soon as he returns, I shall shoot him."  The mate rushed off to the stern of the boat, but presently returned and informed me that the captain would not again interfere with the colonel; and, further, that he was then washing himself.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Thus ended what bade fair to be a most bloody fight, as there was a large crew of hands on the boat.  But on our side there were over three hundred soldiers, well armed.  The colonel and the captain could not meet after this, except as strangers, and it became necessary for the management of affairs that each should be represented.  The result was, I took command, at the request of the colonel, and the mate represented the captain, and everything went along as usual.  In due time we arrived at St. Louis.  I made arrangements for the boat to stop at St. Louis for half an hour, as it became necessary for me to report to Captain Lyon, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>235</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>On my arrival at Geneva, in Kane County, Illinois, I heard the cannon boom at St. Charles--a distance of two miles--and in a very short time a carriage arrived for myself and wife (whom I had met at Geneva), with a large delegation of my fellow-citizens, who escorted me home to St. Charles.  On arriving at the west end of the bridge across Fox River, there was a densely packed crowd, and I thought I had never found the bridge so long, as we were two hours in crossing it, a distance of about four hundred feet.  And I had by this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>MT. VERNON, ILL., April 24, 1856.</P>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">My worthy and ever to be remembered and respected old friend, Capt. L. A. Norton</HI>
189.sgm:: It was with pleasure, indeed, that I, yesterday, read your kind letter of the 13th of August.  When I looked at the superscription, I was somewhat surprised.  I knew the handwriting, but seeing it was sent from California, was a thing I was not looking for.  On the receipt of your letter, how vividly my mind was carried back to that long and tedious campaign that we made together.  And how many reminiscences presented themselves to my mind.  How fresh it brought to my mind the many sufferings we had to witness and endure.  When you spoke of the couch of the sick soldier, tears involuntarily rose in my eyes.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I want you to let me hear from you often; for it does my heart good to keep up a correspondence with you.  Let us keep it up.  After wishing you health, wealth, and happiness, I subscribe myself, your old and sincere friend and companion-in-arms,<HSEP>S. G. HICKS.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>SUBDUING A NOTORIOUS "BULLY."</P>
189.sgm:<P>ON my return from Mexico I found my little wife much improved in health.  I met her in Geneva, the county seat of Kane County, Illinois, at the residence of her parents, where I remained several days with her before taking her home to St. Charles.  About two days after my arrival home, an incident happened that made me quite notorious in the northern portion of the State, and although it may make me appear as a braggart and boaster, yet this history would be incomplete without the story.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I must preface it by saying that on my arrival in Du Page County, Illinois, I made the acquaintance of a young fellow by the name of Frederick Lord, a son of Dr. Lord; I think I was about one year his senior.  It was the custom of that country every Saturday afternoon to meet on the common and wrestle, and all who ever knew me in my younger days can testify that I was an expert wrestler; in fact, I threw all the young men in that vicinity.  I was light, but tall and very active.  On the other hand Fred Lord was a powerfully built young fellow, but with my skill and action I could always handle him.  Our acquaintance extended over a period of more than ten years.  When Fred had matured he was a perfect giant, standing six feet six inches and weighing two hundred and sixty pounds; and for about four or five years before the Mexican War he had been leading a very dissolute life, horse-racing, gambling, and bullying his way through the world to that extent that he had become the terror of several counties.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>After I had taken my departure for the seat of war, Fred volunteered and went out as a private; and owing to his natural insubordination, he had been frequently punished, and had imbibed such a hatred to army officers that when he returned home he declared that he had whipped every officer of the army in Mexico that he had met after the disbanding of the troops, and he intended to whip Norton and Conkling (one of my lieutenants who lived in St. Charles), and then he would be satisfied; Fred and I had always been friendly, and there was no cause for the threat.  But when it was reported to me, I sent him word that he had better commence on me, as I was the smaller of the two, and perhaps when he had whipped me he might not want to attack the other.</P>
189.sgm:<P>It was Monday morning, and the Circuit Court of Kane County was to commence its session that day.  The Geneva Hotel was packed with people, and about eight o'clock I walked over to the hotel to get my morning "cocktail."  I met J. Y. Scammonds (author of "Scammond's Reports") and an eminent attorney from Chicago by the name of Brown.  After some conversation, Scammonds asked me if I made the acquaintance of General Taylor (the men were canvassing for Taylor).  I informed them that I had.  They asked me when I had last seen him.  I replied that I left Taylor at the St. Charles Hotel in New Orleans, on the 29th of June last.  Just as I made the reply, Fred Lord stepped out of the parlor, where he had been carrying on a flirtation with some girls, and said, "Where do you say you saw General Taylor last?"  I repeated, "In New Orleans, on the 29th of June last."  He said, "General Taylor was not in New Orleans on the 29th of June last."  I replied, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I attempted to fend the blow, and at the same time threw my foot back to kick him; but his arm was so heavy and the blow so powerful that I did not entirely escape.  He struck the upper part of my forehead, my head striking some one in the crowd.  Bringing my foot back to kick him threw me from my balance and made it a very pretty knockdown.  But it was of such a nature that it did not in the least stun me.  He knew that if he whipped me he must work lively, and at once bent over me, and, thrusting his hand in my face, attempted to gouge my eye out.  His thumb nail missed my eye but cut my eyebrow.  At this I grabbed his neck-tie with my left hand, took a twist and sprang up, raising him with me, and when we struck the floor again it was fourteen feet (by measurement) distant through the crowd.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I retained my grip on his throat, coming on top of him; but he had thrown his immense legs tight about my loins and had clutched both hands tight in my hair, where he held me as in a vise, while my right hand was at liberty until it was all stove up.  (I remember they applied oil of wormwood after the fight, to take the swelling out.)  Finally I thought to myself, I can't get to strike your face to spoil that, but I will mark you anyway.  So I reached up and clawed down his face a couple of times  It looked very badly for a while.  At this stage of the game I found his hands getting very loose in my hair, and some one in the crowd said, "Take Norton off; see how black Fred is in the face," when a man by the name of McMear caught a fire-poker and declared that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>At this the crowd concluded to release Fred.  They caught hold of me and in attempting to pull me off they pulled Fred up to a sitting posture, but could not get my hand free from his neck-tie; so they procured a knife and cut the tie, and after throwing a few pails of water over him, he came to, and evinced himself satisfied.  Though a powerful man myself, I look upon my victory as a mere accident, as I could not compare with him in physical powers.  But the accident had its effect.  I have many times been in a crowd and have heard men say, "That is the man who whipped Fred Lord."</P>
189.sgm:<P>In this connection I may add that, after a time, Fred made his way out to the Missouri River and, at Traders' Point, married a French lady who was possessed of quite a fortune; but he soon went through with that, and when I was on my way to California I stopped a few days with my brother, who lived but a short distance from Traders' Point, and he and Fred were very good friends.  My brother told me that Fred was at the Point, and was in company with a big half-breed Indian burning lime; that he had often expressed a desire to see me, saying that I had served him right, for he had no cause of quarrel with me.  So I finally decided to go down to the Point with my brother and call on Fred.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>When we arrived at the Point and inquired for him, some of his crowd said he had been gambling the night before and was across the street taking a sleep.  I went over, the crowd following me.  (I suppose my brother had told them about the affair.)  I found him fast asleep, and as I walked up to him, he looked like a great giant.  He was dressed in buckskin, in regular frontiersman style, with a revolver and knife in his belt.  I shook him and called out, "Fred."  He awoke, looked me full in the face and exclaimed, "Lew Norton, by G--d!"  He sprang to his feet, took me by the hand and said, "Here, boys, is the only man that ever whaled me; and no man ever deserved it more than I did; let's go and take a drink."</P>
189.sgm:<P>I pursued my journey to California, but not more than three weeks after the occurrence above narrated, Fred got into a quarrel with and whipped his half-breed partner.  The next day afterward, as he was hauling limestone to the kiln, the half-breed secreted himself in the brush near the road, with an old-fashioned Yager, and when Fred had got past him he fired, tearing an enormous hole through the vitals of his victim.  Fred turned his head and exclaimed, "D--n you; I would make you pay for that if I could live an hour."  He then fell over on his load and expired in a few minutes.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>THE RESTORATION OF A STOLEN CORPSE.</P>
189.sgm:<P>WHEN I returned from the Mexican War I had large unsettled accounts with the United States Government, and pending the settlement I entered the law office of W. D. Barry, Esq., at St. Charles, and commenced the study of law.  During my absence in the service, Dr. Richards had established his medical institute at St. Charles, and, by the way, from that establishment were turned out some of the most eminent practitioners of our day, among whom are Dr. Boice, of Santa Rosa, Dr. Obed Harvey, and others.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I had heard many complaints in regard to resurrectionists and body-snatching throughout the adjoining country, and one day I was awakened from my studies by a party rushing in and informing me that Professor Richards and John Rood, one of the students, had been shot by a mob, or company of riflemen from De Kalb County, numbering about eighty.  I dropped my book and, on inquiry, learned that a young married woman, the daughter of a respected farmer by the name of Churchill, had suddenly died in full flesh, and that the body had been stolen, the effect of which was to craze the mother and so exasperate the father and his neighbors that, in their wrath, they had armed themselves and, in a perfectly organized state, had marched upon the institute and demanded from Richards the remains of their dead.  Richards and the students indignantly denied having the remains, or knowing aught of them.  This denial was anything but satisfactory to them, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The crowd, however, persisted in the demand, and became very clamorous, while Richards and Rood, who stood with their guns in their hands in the door, became very insolent, Richards telling the father of the deceased that if they did not leave he would have a better subject.  At this, several shots were fired almost simultaneously by both parties.  Richards was struck by a rifle ball in the right hand, while his shot-gun was still raised, the bullet passing through just below the knuckles, out at the wrist, and then penetrating his right shoulder, close to the chest.  Rood was also struck by a rifle ball on the right side, the ball following a rib round to the back, not entering the chest.  Rood survived five or six days only, the concussion having caused such internal injuries that mortification ended the chapter of his life.</P>
189.sgm:<P>On my arrival upon the ground, I found the sheriff of the county and several prominent citizens attempting to quiet the then exasperated rioters, who were determined to demolish the buildings, and amid the howl and fury it was next to impossible to be heard.  Several attempts having been made by the sheriff and others to calm them, I saw the condition of things at a glance, sprang upon a horse-block and, after several efforts, succeeded in making myself heard.  I told them that, as citizens, we deeply felt and acknowledged the outrage that had been committed, and that they had our fullest sympathy; that we were ready and willing, in every <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:legitimate manner, to aid them in prosecuting the search for the body; but we could not, and would not, suffer them to go into the destruction of property to gratify revenge.  I then said, "I have this proposition to make you:  select from your body a committee of five to search the premises, and every bolt and bar shall yield to your touch, and if the body is here you surely can find it."  From the crowd there was a universal acclaim that the proposition was fair.  They selected their committee.  I called Professor Hall, son-in-law of Richards, to bring the keys of the establishment.  The sheriff, Hall, and myself went through the whole establishment, prosecuting the most vigilant search, not neglecting out-buildings, barns, and stables, but nothing was to be found.  The day was now far advanced.  The search was abandoned and the crowd retired.  The institution was broken up and Richards was removed to Chicago; but this did not end the excitement.  The public press was full of reports and comments and dire vengeance was threatened to all who were suspected of having a hand in the outrage.  On the other hand, Richards had at once commenced suit for damages, and retained W. D. Barry, my preceptor, as counsel.  All this had occurred in less than a week from the time of the outrage, when one day Judge Barry came into the office, evidently with something on his mind.  He walked the floor for a few minutes, when he suddenly turned to me and said, "Norton, I know your sympathy is with those people.  Now I will give you a chance to show it.  You have been to the wars and have seen many men killed and have had much to do with dead folks.  I want to restore that body, but I have not the nerve to do it.  You are a clerk in the office <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>246</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I unhesitatingly agreed to do anything that I could to, restore the body.  He then gave me these instructions.  "At twelve o'clock to-night, go to a certain point [describing it] in town, and you will find a span of horses and a spring-wagon, with a shovel in the wagon.  Take the horses and first drive to Geneva [this was a town two miles below, on Fox River]; go to Danforth's shop, where two men will bring you a coffin.  You need not speak.  Then drive to Cedar Bluff [describing the point], where you will hitch the horses.  On examination, you will see the white bones of a horse's head at the commencement of a path, and strewn along the path, you will find white bones until it leads you through the woods, to the head of a ravine, near Otto Perkins' fence; thence follow down the ravine about three-fourths of a mile, where you will find the tops of the bushes all broken in toward each other.  There dig."</P>
189.sgm:<P>At midnight I was at the point, found the horses hitched, untied them, drove to Geneva, and to Danforth's shop.  Two men emerged from the shop, carrying a coffin.  They placed it in the wagon without a word.  I glanced at it and saw that the lid was screwed down, when I remarked, "Bring a screw-driver."  One of them soon returned and placed a screw-driver in the wagon, when, without another word, I drove back to Cedar Bluff, where I hitched the horses, and soon found the horse's skull, with other marks indicating my path through the woods.  I followed it with the shovel on my back.  I do not remember whether I whistled to keep up my courage or not; but as I am a poor whistler and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>There was no moon, but a starlight night.  Owing to the thick woods and heavy foliage overhead, it was very dark.  When I commenced digging, I found the bed of the gulch very wet and muddy.  I had not prosecuted my labors very long, until my shovel struck something yielding.  I cleaned the dirt away as well as I could, put my hand down and got hold of a sack.  I pulled it out, found that it contained the body, shut up like a jack-knife, having the limbs from the hips bent forward so that the face and feet were together.  I took the body from the sack and found that the oozy mud had settled all over it.  I wiped it off as best I could, shouldered it, and made my way back to Cedar Bluff.  There was a small creek of pure water, and I washed the body clean.  I found that they had cut through the skin and flesh on the forehead and skinned it down till it fell like a flap over the eyes.  I placed it back as smoothly as I could, preparatory to putting it into the coffin; but here was a dilemma!  No one had thought of a shroud, and I could not think of placing the body in the coffin in a nude state.  While revolving the matter in my mind, I happened to think of my outer shirt.  I at once pulled it off and put it on the corpse.  I then gathered some moss, placed it in the coffin for a pillow, placed the body in the coffin, screwed down the lid, and drove the wagon back where I found it, according to directions.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>Now, I do not believe that I am more cowardly than most of the human family, and probably as far removed from superstition as any one; but when I found myself away in the woods, in the depth of night, with all its surrounding gloom, trudging along with a cold, clammy corpse on my back, I plead guilty to having felt a kind of involuntary shudder pass over me, and undefined something--not fear, but a species of desolation and awe wholly indescribable.</P>
189.sgm:<P>As I started in to give a simple recital of facts, I have wandered a little; but please excuse the digression.  After hitching the horses where I found them, I pushed on toward home, but could not repress my curiosity to dodge around a corner and watch to see what would become of the wagon.  I saw a man unhitch the horses and drive through Fox River at the ford, making his way west in the direction of the home of the distressed parents and friends of the deceased.  I returned home and thought I would slip into bed and that my wife would not discover the missing shirt; but not so.  She threw her arm over me and exclaimed, "Oh! my God, Lewis; what has become of your shirt!"  I was compelled to deceive her and pretend that I had been out fishing; that it had caught fire and I had to tear it off.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Two days elapsed, when news came from De Kalb County that the missing body had been restored; that it was found in a coffin, sitting on the father's porch, and that there was great rejoicing.  But there was one feature they could not understand--the body had a man's shirt on, for a shroud!  The friends proposed to remove it, and put a different shroud on the corpse before the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>When my wife heard the story, she remarked to me, "That, my dear, was your shirt; and had they removed it, they would have found your name on the bottom of it."  There are many living, doubtless, even in this State, who knew of the occurrence and have often heard the query, "Who restored the body?" and, as it is no longer a secret, and after the lapse of a third of a century, I give the world the facts.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>DEPARTURE FOR CALIFORNIA.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I CONTINUED reading law and was admitted to the Bar of the Superior Court of Illinois, before Trumble, Treat, and John Dean Caton.  At this time my wife's health was so poor that she remained with her mother constantly.  A household counsel was called, and it was finally arranged that I should let her remain with her mother.  I divided my property with her, paid for a divorce, and prepared to leave for California.  (This was my second trip, the first being uneventful.)</P>
189.sgm:<P>Before leaving for Mexico my wife's uncle came to me and, with tears in his eyes, said, "I have to ask a favor of you, and I hate to do it, as I know how much you have lost by assisting your friends; but I was sued in the circuit court, have there lost my case, and want to appeal to the Supreme Court.  I have a meritorious defense to the action, and am, assured by my attorney that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Now I had paid every cent that I was indebted, had started my teams a week before, and had told everybody that I should start myself the next Thursday, when I was brought up standing by an officer serving me with a summons--suit brought upon the appeal bond.  I went immediately to Howard and asked him what it meant, reminding him of his promise.  He assured me that he meant all that he had promised, and in order to protect his bondsmen had turned over all his property exempt from forced sale to Dearborn, the sheriff, to pay judgment and costs of suit.</P>
189.sgm:<P>At this time there was a Democratic Convention at Springfield, the State capital, about eighty miles distant, and the sheriff, county judge, and in fact nearly all the county officers, were in attendance as delegates.  Howard claimed to feel very badly over the matter, while Farnsworth, the opposing attorney, gave me to understand that unless I settled the matter before leaving, a State's warrant would be issued against me for leaving the State without paying my debts.  The county judge being absent, they would of course hold me a prisoner until he returned, which would be about ten days, when I could be released by showing that I was leaving an abundance of property to pay any judgment which they might obtain against me.  I refused to pay the debt of Howard, and they swore out a bench warrant.  Howard went to Farnsworth and stated his arrangement with the sheriff, and asked him not to proceed against me.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The affair was generally talked of, and I had the sympathy of the community.  I then went to Randal, the under-sheriff, and said, "Randal, I have lived among you for twelve years and have tried to be a good citizen; a child could at any time have arrested me.  Now you hold papers for my arrest, but this is such a bare-faced imposition that I will never submit to an arrest on the warrant you hold while I have life to resist, so do not attempt it."  He replied, "Captain, if that is your resolution, I am sick."  Farnsworth then went to Geneva, the county seat, and got two deputy sheriffs to come up to arrest me.  They called on Randal for the papers, but, after some conversation with him, they were taken suddenly ill and did not make the attempt.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Time passed on until Thursday noon, when I mounted my horse, in full uniform, my sword by my side and my pistols in the holsters, and rode around town, taking leave of my friends.  I then turned my horse's head to the west, rode across Fox River, and ascended the hill on the west side.  As I passed Mr. Farnsworth's office (now General Farnsworth) he was standing in the door.  I raised my cap and said, "Good-by, Farnsworth; I told you I should leave to-day at twelve o'clock."  He said, "Then you are really going?  Good-by, and God bless you!"  When on top of the hill, which commanded a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I had rode less than a mile when I noticed a couple of men on horseback, loitering along the road ahead of me.  I immediately recognized them; they were two constables--one, Orange Bayard, whom I had rendered many essential services; the other's name I do not remember.  I readily comprehended their business.  I spurred up my horse and rode up between them, and as I approached them I said, "How are you, gentlemen?  Well, Orange, which way are you bound to-day?"  He replied, "We are going out into the Bur settlement."  I said, "Are you not afraid to ride unprotected in this murderous country?" to which they returned rather a cynical laugh.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Now my road, in a short distance from where we were, turned to the right and theirs to the left.  I said, "As you are friends of mine I will ride over to the Bur settlement with you, and protect you; but I wish you to keep a little in advance.  So I rode with them five or six miles to the Bur settlement to where there was a by-road which led across the country and joined my road, some distance ahead.  I said, "Now, gentlemen, I think you are safe, but you ride on and I will wait here a few minutes and watch to see that no harm befalls you, when I shall go my own way, as I am bound for California."  I waited until they had rode beyond all danger to me, when I sped swiftly along on my own route, and in a couple of hours joined my company.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>THE JOURNEY AS FAR AS CARSON VALLEY.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I HAD two four-horse wagons, and our party organized, calling ourselves the "Rough and Ready Company," of which I was unanimously elected captain.  We pushed along all right to the Missouri River without any serious difficulty.  But on arriving at Traders' Point, where we were to cross the river, we found an immense crowd waiting transportation across the stream.  There was but one small scow, which would only convey a single wagon at a time, and at that rate it would take about six weeks to ferry the crowd across the river.  But the man (Stokes by name) who owned the boat entered into an agreement with us that he would, with our aid, build another boat, and my company was to be crossed first.</P>
189.sgm:<P>There was also a large Missourian company with ox-teams waiting, and I noticed that they were also working on a new boat; and at length it leaked out that Stokes was playing us falsely, and had made the same promise to the Missourians that he had to us.  Ours was but a small company, thirteen wagons, and we said nothing, but kept to work.  The boat was completed and launched, and before it was through its oscillations I sprang into the stern and seized the rudder.  My men, who understood the situation, sprang into the boat with their poles, and I gave the order to shove down to a second landing (only a few yards) where one of our wagons was ready to come aboard.  All was so well arranged that before the other party was aware, our first wagon was on the boat, and we ran across the river and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I called to our boys on the bank to bring a wagon to the other landing.  They did so; but before we got it on the boat a crowd from the Missouri company came to take possession of the boat, and a powerful-looking young man, who claimed that I, as commissary, had issued him rations in Mexico, was at the head.  I took my position near the bow of the boat, and told the parties to keep off; that we had an arrangement with Stokes that we should be the first to cross on the new boat, when Red-shirt gave me the lie.  Somehow his foot slipped and he fell on the side of the boat.  The next moment I felt some one buckling a belt around me, and I discovered a revolver in one side and a knife in the other.  I raised the revolver, and fully persuaded the crowd to stand back until the boys could run the wagon on the boat.</P>
189.sgm:<P>As my red-shirted friend stepped overboard, I looked around to see if I was alone in the muss, when I saw Sponable and J. L. Mack, who were both powerful men.  As I looked around, they exclaimed, "Give them h--l, Cap., we are here."  I stood to the helm all that night, and the next day until ten o'clock, when our wagons were all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Now all went well with us until, far out on the plains, they began to find fault with me as captain of the train.  And it was not long until there was not a man, woman, or child but what knew more about encamping and camplife generally than I did.  There was constant quarreling and bickering among them, with innumerable lies, which prejudiced them one against another until the best of friends were ready to fight.  At length we overtook some Dutchmen, with several head of cattle, and the Indians were hanging on their flanks.  These men, for some cause, had been separated from their company; I have forgotten how it happened, but I saw that the Indians intended to rob and probably murder them.  I told them that I would regulate our travel to their pace until they could fall in with some other company, or to a place where it was safe for them to encamp until they should be overtaken by ox-teams.</P>
189.sgm:<P>This proposition met with a most stubborn opposition by my company.  Some asserted that I was crazy, to take those Dutchmen on my back, and others proposed to depose me and elect a man by the name of White, who had crossed the plains before.  I was indignant to think that my company wanted to leave the unprotected men to their fate, and told them to go on, if they were disposed to do so, but I would remain with the Dutchmen and share their fate.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We continued our journey for two days, when I think they had decided to elect White that night, and the next <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>256</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>White's team was in advance, and some of the chiefs stopped him, and said they wanted toll for going through their country.  White gave them five or six dollars and they let him go on, which he did, and kept going.  The next one was Fred Parker.  The Indian said, "Me chief; me want money."  Parker replied, pointing to me, "That is our chief; go to him if you want money."  I was dressed in uniform as a United States officer, and rode with my sword on, and my pistols in the holsters.  I did this at the request of the company, as the Indians had great respect for army officers.  The chief started to make his demands on me, when I drew my sword and charging to the rear ordered the Indians, who were closing in upon us, to leave the road and take to the river bank, when their spokesman, in fair English, told me that they had as good a right to travel the road as I had.</P>
189.sgm:<P>At this I called to the company in advance to seize their rifles, and to form in line.  At the same time I whipped out a pistol, rode right up to the Indians, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>257</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We continued our weary march across the plains with the usual experiences that have been written and rewritten, and in the course of time we reached Carson Valley, poor and jaded--that is to say, those of us who were not left on the desert to feed the wolves and buzzards.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>RELIEF TRAIN--A FRIGHT--CROSSING THE MOUNTAINS.</P>
189.sgm:<P>WE had passed the sink of the Carson River and were proceeding up that stream, when we came to an encampment in a very pleasant valley, and on inquiry learned that it was a relief train sent out from California to aid the immigration.  We encamped but a short distance from the relief train, and I walked over to the camp to make some inquiries regarding their object and the nature of their supplies.  I was soon introduced to Gen. James Estel, who I learned was first in command.  I found him very affable, and apparently ready and willing to do all in his power to aid immigrants.  The supplies, he informed me, were intended for those who had no money to purchase what they needed.</P>
189.sgm:<P>He then introduced me to Gen. J. W. Denver, General Price, and some others holding subordinate positions.  I then informed him that we could not claim to be without funds, yet we needed some articles for the use of some of our party who were sick, for which I was ready and willing to pay.  General Estel said, "We cannot take pay, but that is all right; make out your requisition."  I said, "General, shall I make my requisition in bulk or by ration?"  He replied, "Oh, make it out in detail."  I went to camp and made a regular requisition in accordance with the regulations of the United States army, as follows:  Twenty men, ten days' tea, 200; twenty men, ten days' coffee, 200; twenty men, ten days' sugar, 200--and so on until the requisition was filled.  I chose William Brophey, a shrewd fellow, and told him to take a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>"I presented your requisition to General Estel as you directed.  He took it and commenced reading, `Twenty men, ten days' tea, total two hundred pounds; coffee, twenty men, ten days, total two hundred pounds;' and so on through the requisition, reading all pounds.  Finally the old general said, `I don't understand this; take it to General Denver.'  I handed it to General Denver, who it seems was issuing commissary, and he read it the same as General Estel,--instead of number of rations, as carried out, he read it all pounds.  But they were puzzled to know why you had put all two hundred pounds--tea, coffee, pickles, and potatoes.  They called in General Price; he read it the same.  They finally said to me, `Is your captain a military man?'  I informed them he was; that he had served almost fourteen months in Mexico, and then added, `I think the captain intends the two hundred at the right hand as the total number of rations, and not pounds.'  General Estel said, `Ah! yes, yes, I understand it; twenty men, ten days, two hundred rations; yes, yes, that's all right; General Denver, issue the rations.'"</P>
189.sgm:<P>General Denver did issue the rations, and in addition, I received a very polite note from General Estel, saying that they had issued on my requisition, but they were sorry that, owing to their limited means, they were not able to fill it.  And now the cream of the joke was, they had issued at least four times what my requisition called for; thus proving to my satisfaction that the military <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We rested a few days where we met the relief train, and continued our journey.  Nothing of importance occurred until we reached the lower end of Carson Valley, I think it was the first day out from Mormon Gulch, when I got about the greatest fright of my life.  We found several camps in the valley where there were wounded men, whose wounds had been inflicted by Indians in their attacks on immigrants.  From them we learned that the Indians were very hostile in the valley, and also learned that the attacks had been made from the willows and timber growing along the banks of the river.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Now the only grass for our stock was in the valley lying along the river, and the stock must have feed; we were compelled to let our teams graze there or they would starve.  We turned them out about sunset to graze for the night.  But when I called for volunteers to guard the stock next to the river, I could not find a man who was willing to take that dangerous position.  I finally told the men that I would take that post myself.  Accordingly I repaired to the spot, and continued to march between the stock and the brush, with my holster pistols.  The animals were scattered along the valley for about half a mile, and I concluded to march up and down between them and the brush until midnight.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>In making my beat I returned to the lower end, where I found that some of the horses were close to the edge of the brush.  I went around to start them back, when all of a sudden I saw the willows commence shaking and bending right in front of me.  My first thought, of course, was Indians.  I cocked my pistols, presented them at the point of commotion, and commenced running backwards, expecting momentarily to feel the point of an arrow.  Presently I struck my heel against a little hillock and keeled over on the ground.  I did not attempt to rise, but kept my eyes steadily fixed on the brush.  But the shaking of the brush soon stopped, and I saw one of my horses walking out onto the open ground.  In an instant I recognized the cause of my fright.  To the horse was attached a long lariat, which had got caught in the willows, causing the commotion.  I got up, and after thinking over my ludicrous position, I had to laugh over the farce, but thought I would keep it to myself.  The next morning I was congratulated by my men on having my scalp-lock preserved; but the joke was too good to keep, and in a few days I related my adventure, which caused great merriment in camp.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We continued our journey to the upper end of the valley, where there were some settlers.  Here I found Captains Bolch and Parker, with a drove of cattle which they had brought across the plains; and they had encamped to rest the stock.  I made an arrangement with them to leave my teams and wagons in their care, and took my riding-horse and joined a company of horsemen to cross the mountains to California by way of old Emigrant Can&tilde;on, where hundreds of wagons had passed.  And such a road!  Many places the wagons had to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I wandered up a small stream at the east end of the valley, where I discovered immense deposits of marble.  The marble bowlders in the head of the stream had been washed for ages by the water as it had been poured upon them by the rushing mountain torrent, until they had received a polish that could not be surpassed by the most ingenious workman, bringing to view all their inherent beauties.  Whether the quarry has since been utilized or not, I have never learned.</P>
189.sgm:<P>From this place we wended our way up a steep mountain until we reached the summit of the Sierras.  We had passed the summit but a short distance when we came into an immense field of small red flowers, many of them just peeping up through the snow.  I mention this because these hardy little plants were the only things, save the mountain forests, that gave any evidence of vegetable life to relieve the eye in this desolate waste.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We now commenced descending the mountain by an easy grade towards the Pacific, and that night reached Leak Springs, where we encamped with a large crowd of immigrants, all bound for the valleys in California.  This was the point I had reached in 1850, when I was compelled to return, owing to a family of friends having lost a husband and father by death.  I have omitted reference to that trip in this history, as there were but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>As already stated, at Leak Springs we encamped for the night, with many other immigrants.  There was a station at this place, a mere booth of brush and shakes.  Under the counter and about one foot from the top was a shelf, upon which was a large cheese and many other things, and under this was the proprietor's sleeping bunk, or, rather, a nest.  Now at that time the western slope of the mountains was filled with grizzly bears; and during the night a large grizzly came into the place, ate up the big cheese, and made off, without awaking the proprietor.  This is rather a hard story, but I know it to be a fact.  I saw the mess he had made by scattering crumbs, and also the print of his immense feet in the soft earth, as well as the nest where the man slept.  A lucky thing it was for the store-keeper that he did not awake while old bruin was taking his meal.</P>
189.sgm:<P>This may strike the eye of some one who was present at the time, as many beside myself had ocular demonstration of the fact.  It occurred about the first of September, 1852.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Nothing further worthy of note occurred, and I arrived safely in old "Hangtown" (now Placerville).  Of course at that day I thought of nothing but money, and I firmly expected, with my superior genius, that I would make the rivers and gulches yield up their treasures in untold thousands.  But there was something to be done.  My teams were yet in Carson Valley, and I must get them over the mountains, and dispose of them before finally settling down.  Accordingly, after selling my "alkalied" horse, and purchasing what I supposed to be a fresh one, I prepared to resume my travels.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>INITIATED AS A MOUNTAINEER.</P>
189.sgm:<P>IN a previous chapter, the reader will remember that I incidentally mentioned having met Gen. J. W. Denver in Carson Valley.  After my arrival in Placerville, I became more intimately acquainted with him.  He was at that time smarting under the effect of the duel between himself and young Nelson, editor of the <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
189.sgm:<P>When I spoke of having to return to Carson Valley, he also expressed an anxiety to make a trip across the mountains; and it was finally agreed that he should return to San Francisco to enlist a party of friends who he thought would like to go along, and among them was a young lawyer, whose name, I think, was Snyder.  He was a man of great promise, but was fast going to a drunkard's grave, and the excursion was as much to get him sobered up as for any other purpose.  We had set the fourth day of July as the time for leaving Placerville.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We were going to cross by the Johnson Cut-off, a mere bridle train across the mountains, where even the fallen timber was not cut from the trail.  The entire route was an unbroken wild, inhabited only by grizzly bears, California lions, and wild Indians.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Well, the day arrived for starting, but the night before I had received a line from Denver saying that his party could not get ready for some time to come.  But I had made full preparations for the trip, purchased what I supposed to be a fresh pony, got my blankets, and a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I commenced ascending the mountain on the opposite side and had nearly reached the summit, when I met a lot of my acquaintances who had crossed the plains with me to Carson Valley, and were footing it over the mountains.  Their provisions had given out, and they were nearly starved.  Well, I opened my provision kit, and before their appetites were satisfied, they and myself had exhausted my slender store.  I then took leave of them, and started on my lonely trail, with nearly one hundred miles of unbroken forest before me, without an ounce of provisions, my revolver and hooks and lines being my only dependence wherewith to gain a sustenance.  I jogged along on my pony, as I supposed all right, when all of a sudden he gave out.  Although he was fat and apparently in good condition, he refused to carry me further, and would have lain down had I not dismounted.  I soon discovered that he had been recently alkalied, and hence the deceptive appearance.  I let him rest a little, then drove him before me, with nothing on him but my blankets and saddle, and we made a few miles only before the sun went down and darkness came creeping over us.  We were threading our way through a dense forest of lofty pines, redwood, and mountain cedar, whose tops reached some three hundred feet into the air, and in the gray light giving <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I now began to look about for a place to sleep.  I found a fallen tree about five feet in diameter, with large slabs of bark that had fallen from the log.  I also found some dry poles and placed them one end on the ground, with the other leaning against the log; then I laid the bark on the poles, thus making for myself a shelter.  I had plenty of matches, and could have built a fire; but then came the question, was it policy to do that?  It was true it would keep off wild beasts; but, on the other hand, it would attract the attention of Indians if they were about, and I chose to risk savage beasts rather than savage men.  So, with my saddle for a pillow, I crept into my frail shelter, and placing my revolver under my head, was soon in a sound sleep, from which I was awakened about ten or eleven o'clock by the cracking of brush.  I grasped my pistols and listened; it seemed to be approaching me.  I sat up, watching further developments, when, all of a sudden, something larger than a dog sprang upon the log about forty feet from me.  I leveled my pistol and fired, when the beast did some good running.  I did not then know, but afterwards ascertained that it was a California lion.  But that shot rang through the little valley and far into the mountains, and if there were any Indians about they would be sure to hear the report, and perhaps see the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Next morning I was up with the sun, saddled my pony, which had had a good feed, tied my blankets to the saddle, and once more finding the trail, prosecuted my journey.  I could travel only at a pace of about two miles an hour, on account of the horse (which I wished to save), but I trudged on until about nine o'clock, when I felt very hungry, having had no supper and no breakfast as yet.  In an opening among the pines, where the sun's rays penetrated, I found some grasshoppers, which I pocketed and went my way.  About noon I came upon the bank of the south fork of the American River, at what is now known as Strawberry Valley, where I got out my fishing tackle and grasshoppers, and soon caught trout enough for a good meal.  I built a fire, and roasted and ate trout until I felt like a new man.  They were excellent, although I had no salt for them.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Between two and three o'clock in the afternoon, I again resumed my journey, the trail following up the river; but, as before, my progress was very slow, sometimes leading and sometimes driving my horse before me.  About an hour before sundown, finding good grass for my horse, and a chasm in the rocks for my own nest, I concluded to camp for the night.  So I cut a fishing pole, went down to the stream and took out enough trout for my supper, which I roasted as before.  By this time it had grown quite dark.  My den was between a rift in the rocks, about three feet in width, and some ten or twelve feet long, the bottom being a natural receptacle <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:for leaves and small twigs, which had accumulated to such a depth as to make me a nice, soft bed.  I now commenced to roll in a quantity of loose rocks to fill the chasm at my head, which was about five feet deep, and then to cover the top with green brush, which I cut with my Bowie-knife.  When my nest was completed it was quite dark, and I seated myself upon a rock to survey the scene, which was the most gloomy (yet in some respects sublime) that I ever gazed upon.  The eye could not reach the lofty heads of the monarchs of the forest that surrounded me; in front of me, not fifty yards distant, were three pyramids, to which Cleopatra's Needle would be as a cambric needle to a crow-bar, rising abruptly from the valley to a height of seven or eight hundred feet, while every brush and old stump of a tree was transformed into an Indian, and every rock that rose above the surface wore the garb of a grizzly bear or a crouching panther, and the sense of loneliness that crept over me called to mind Cowper's verse:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh, solitude!  where are the charms<LB>That sages have found in thy face?<LB>Better live in the midst of alarms<LB>Than reign in this horrible place."</HI>
189.sgm:<P>Nevertheless, I got a good night's sleep, and was out early in the morning with my rod and line, pulling out the finny denizens of the stream until I had plenty of provisions for my onward trip.  I got my breakfast, and about nine o'clock went back to my grotto to get my blankets and prepare for my journey.  But on my approach I discovered that my possession was disputed and my claim had been jumped, for within three feet of the entrance lay, coiled in the sun, a huge rattlesnake, which warned me on my approach.  Here was an enemy I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Again I was under way, and about noon I crossed the river at what is now known as Slippery Ford, and followed the trail along the north bank of a small creek (which empties into the river) for several miles.  As I was leading my horse along I saw ahead of me some small animal coming in the path directly toward me.  I halted, drew my revolver, and when it got within about thirty feet of me I fired, shooting it through the head.  It fell in the path; I hastened forward and discovered it to be a large groundhog.  It would weigh, when dressed, ten or twelve pounds.  I soon removed the entrails, letting the skin remain on to keep the meat from getting dirty, and hung him on the saddle to balance my string of fish; then who was happier than I?</P>
189.sgm:<P>But it soon become camping-time again.  There was plenty of grass on the banks of the creek, and in looking around I soon found a long, hollow tree, which at some time had been burned out at the roots, leaving a doorway into which I could crawl.  Here I resolved to pass the night.  As the night closed in it became very cold, as I was then high up the mountains, in fact, upon the summit of the Sierras; and in order to keep warm, was compelled to build a fire in front of my hole in the tree, in defiance of the savages.  But I very properly reasoned that they would not be likely to camp where it was so cold.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>I found my scalp all right in the morning, and my horse where I had left him; and, after breakfast, I again pushed forward.  But before noon, I met some packers and purchased a piece of salt, half as large as a hen's egg, for fifty cents.  Then I was fixed!  A couple of miles farther brought me to where I commenced my descent from the mountains; and before sundown I was in Lake Valley and across the first summit.  Here I met a lot of immigrants packing through.  They had plenty of crackers, but no meat.  Hence a bargain was soon struck; my groundhog was put in the camp-kettle and stewing in short order, and we all had a feast that night.  They cooked the most of my trout for breakfast, I reserving a few for an emergency and taking my pockets full of crackers.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I camped the next night at the lower end of Lake Valley, and the day after reached Mormon Station, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>ANOTHER TRIP FROM CARSON TO PLACERVILLE.</P>
189.sgm:<P>ON arriving in Carson Valley, I again met my old friends Bolch and Parker; found that my teams had sufficiently improved to be able to cross the mountains, and had arranged to start in a few days on the return to Placerville, with my wagons.  One day as Captain Parker and myself were talking with one of the men who owned the toll-bridge across the south branch of Carson River, away up near Emigrant Can&tilde;on, some immigrant wagons came up where we were conversing.  The bridgeman stepped up to one of the immigrants and said, "I am one of the owners of the toll-bridge about five miles ahead, and I want you to pay your toll here."  The man hesitated a little and then, while taking out his purse, asked the tollman how he should know but that he might find a man again at the gate who would demand toll.  The fellow assured him that he would find no one at the bridge, as the Indians were troublesome in that vicinity, and the owners had left and come to the valley.  There being two travelers together, the other man asked, "Have you a charter for your bridge?"  The bridgeman replied in the affirmative, when the immigrant paid his toll and went on.</P>
189.sgm:<P>As they left, the tollman addressed himself to Parker, saying, "If those fellows had asked me to show my charter [clapping his hand on his revolver, suggestively] I would have shown it to them."  Presently the fellow went away, when I remarked to Parker, "When I start across the mountains with my teams, I will make that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Joseph Stone drove one of my teams and a young man, whose name I do not remember, drove the others.  We went on until we reached the aforesaid bridge, or rather two or them close together, when my boastful toll-taker came out and demanded his toll.  I said, "Sir, have you a charter authorizing you to receive toll for the crossing of these bridges?"  He hesitated a moment, and then said, "No, I have not."  "Then," said I, "I will not pay to cross."  At this his partner stepped out of the toll-house.  The first one pulled out a long spring dirk-knife and commenced whittling as he talked, leaning up against a long pole that laid in two crotches, making a barrier to prevent driving across the bridge.  He said he had no charter; that the bridge was not in California, as the lines had not been run.  I asked, "Why, then, did you not get a charter from Brigham Young?  I have been recognizing his charters ever since we reached Utah."  I then peremptorily demanded, "Get away from there and take down that pole, so I can cross, or I will pitch it into the river."  He replied, "You must not touch that pole, and you cannot cross this bridge unless you pay your toll, as this is our property; you shall not interfere with it, and we will defend it."  I retorted, "Look below your bridge; do you not see that it is placed exactly over the immigrant ford?  I want you to remove your nuisance at once, or I shall drive over it."  He again replied that I could not cross the bridge without paying toll.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>I then stepped forward and pitched the pole into the stream and called out, "Drive on, boys."  I remained with our two heroes, one of whom said that if they knew my name they would prosecute me; that I had taken the advantage of them and forced the bridge by superior numbers.  In reply I said, "I do not think I have much the advantage of you, there are two of you and but one of me, as my teamsters are entirely beyond my reach for aid.  So I do not see where the advantage comes in.  But," said I, "listen to me; in this matter I have not acted without an object.  So far as my name is concerned, you shall have that."  I handed him my card, saying, "I shall be found in Placerville whenever you want me, and now for my reasons."  I then referred to the boast of some days before to Parker, about showing their charter, and also told them what I had said to Parker regarding their charter; and clapping my hand on my pistol, I said, "I always carry a pass for all such charters as yours, and wish you to learn this lesson: it is the easiest thing in the world for a man to be mistaken.  You undoubtedly can boast of being 'old forty-niners,' and imagine that all the immigrants are a set of submissive cowards; but to rectify that mistake, I want you to distinctly recollect that I am an immigrant!"</P>
189.sgm:<P>During our controversy, a couple of packers came along and crossed the bridge, going to Carson Valley; of course they met the immigrant trains and told them that the bridge had been forced, and after that no one would pay toll.  The next day the fellows burned their bridge and left, and I never saw them afterward.  But, by the way, when I came up to the wagons, which were awaiting me about two hundred yards distant, I found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We proceeded on our journey, and in time, without further adventure, we reached Placerville, which, outside of San Francisco, was then the town of the State.  The streets were crowded with people of all classes, and all nationalities, and all professions.  Men of industrious habits were generally in the mines, and those who lived by their wits were looking for a chance to make money by adapting themselves to anything that might be learned easy.  Lawyers found a very fair field for their wits in defending mining suits, under the district mining laws, and physicians were generally employed in their legitimate profession.  But the preachers; ah! there came the rub; what should they do?  There were no churches; at that day the body was to be cared for, but the soul was seldom thought of.  Hence, like black Othello, they had to own their occupation gone.  And I have seen many a divine change the pulpit for the monte table or the faro bank, while another would get up and air his eloquence in a gambling hell, warning the occupants of their wicked ways, and if he happened to take with the crowd, he would reap a rich harvest for the labor thus bestowed.  I was intimate with one of that class, who often remarked to me that preaching was easier than handling the pick and shovel.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MY EXPERIENCE AS A MINER.</P>
189.sgm:<P>AFTER disposing of my teams, Joe Stone and myself went down on the south fork of the American River, where we purchased a claim and went to work mining.  The sun was very hot and the shade was cool and pleasant, and Joe was a good hand to tell stories; consequently sometimes the claim did not pay very well, and we came to the conclusion that the thing would not pay anyhow.  So I bought Joe out, and he sought other fields of labor.  I soon sold the claim and took up other claims, all of which I sold to "forty-niners."  I would not sell an immigrant a claim.</P>
189.sgm:<P>After making a few thousand dollars by the sale of claims, I finally located what was known as Prospect Flat, or rather that was what I named it.  I had erected a cabin and struck moderate pay.  Doctor Morse, P. F. Adams, and several others were with me.  They had nowhere else to go.  Winter came on--the terrible winter of 1852-53.  The whole crowd was sick, save "Doc." and myself, and he and I worked our mine to feed the sick ones.  It paid tolerably well, and when we cleared up for the night the only question was, Have we made enough to-day to purchase grub for the crowd? when we would shoulder our picks and make for the cabin, through the slush of snow and mud, all dripping wet.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Thus we worked the whole winter to supply our comrades with necessary food; and we were doing well at that, as all that winter flour was a dollar a pound; bacon, a dollar and a half a pound; potatoes, one dollar, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>But about this time an incident occurred which caused me to change my occupation.  I had organized a mining district known as Prospect Flat Mining District, and had taken up a claim in a gulch; but there were three men working a claim below mine, and I could not get fall enough to work my claim until they had worked theirs out; so I put just the required amount of work on my claim to hold it under the district laws.  But when the men below me had worked up the gulch to the boundary of my claim, they did not respect it, but continued to work right along.  I remonstrated with them, but they would not listen to anything I said.  I then notified them that I should call a miners' meeting to decide who the claim belonged to.  They said they did not care for me nor the miners' meeting.  They declared that they would not attend the meeting, and that they would work the claim or die over it; that they came from "Old Kentuck by G--d."  I told them that I didn't come from "Old Kentucky," and that, like all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>On Saturday night I attended the miners' meeting, and introduced my evidence showing that I had done the requisite amount of labor to hold the claim, when the miners decided the case in my favor and offered to send a committee to place me in possession of my claim on Monday morning.  I told them that in case I wanted a committee to place me in possession I would call upon them; but I would ask the president of the meeting to let the secretary go with me, and read the proceedings of the meeting to the adverse party.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Accordingly on Monday morning I was on the ground, with my pick, shovel, and long-tom, at work uncovering a space to get to the wash dirt.  Charley Barney, a friend, accompanied the secretary and myself; and in about half an hour my antagonists put in an appearance.  They came right upon the ground and commenced work with me.  I quietly notified them that I should not pay them for their labor, and they returned the compliment, telling me that they would not pay me for mine.  I told them that unless the Government paid me I should not expect any pay.</P>
189.sgm:<P>After thus working for a time, the secretary having in the meantime read the decision of the meeting giving me the ground, I said to Charley Barney, "Charley, will you help me to set my tom?"  We took the tom and jumped down into the trench where they had worked to, which was about four feet deep, with a straight face up to where they had quit work.  As we jumped down and took the tom with us, one of the contestants, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>At this moment one of his partners rushed up and with one of the long-handled mining shovels struck at me a terrific blow.  As quick as thought I threw the man I was holding right under the descending shovel, which must have split his head open had not Dr. Morse, the secretary, caught another shovel and raised it so as to receive the blow in time to save my man's life.  When the fellow saw what he would have done, he turned deathly pale and sank down upon the grass, making no further effort to aid his friend.  But an overgrown fellow that would have weighed over two hundred pounds, the third partner, stepped up with a spade in his hand and said, "Release that man or I will split your head open."</P>
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189.sgm:<P>But by this time I was ready for almost anything, and the shovels did not seem to me to be more than so many straws whirled about my head; and as he advanced on me, I exclaimed, "You coward, you dare not strike any one," and dealt him a kick that wilted him at my feet.  Then my "companion-in-arms" began to come to his reason and asked me to let him go, as the claim was not worth fighting for.  I told him that he should have thought of that sooner!  "But," I said, "you have a plaything in your side-pocket that I want for a minute."  He, without further resistance, permitted me to put my hand into his pocket and take out his revolver.  I removed the caps, threw it out onto the bank, and told them all to get out of there.  They helped out the man I had kicked, and all marched off, leaving their tools, for which they returned in three or four days.</P>
189.sgm:<P>As for myself, in jerking the pick away from the fellow (whose name I afterwards learned was Hendricks), I had so strained my right wrist that I could no longer use it.  Hence I quit mining and went to San Francisco to purchase a law library.  I called on my friend E.D. Baker, who was then practicing law with Judge Crockett, and they kindly assisted me in selecting my books, when I returned to Placerville, stuck out my shingle, and commenced the practice of law.  But it was many months before my arm got well, as the muscles were badly strained.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>LAWYER AND MERCHANT--UNCLE BILLY'S LARCENY.</P>
189.sgm:<P>AFTER practicing a while, I was compelled to take a stock of goods, on which I had advanced money, and for some time I ran an auction and commission business, in connection with my legal profession.  But after trying to conduct both for a time, I came to the conclusion that I had too many irons in the fire, and disposed of my goods.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But while I was still trying to conduct a mercantile business in connection with the legal profession, a happy-faced old gentleman came into my store one day and wished to know if my name was Norton.  I informed him that it was.  "Well," said the old gentleman, "I have got into a little trouble and John Frink told me to come and employ you and you would get me out of it."  I replied that I thanked my friend Frink for his confidence in my ability.  I then asked him his name.  He said his name was Billy Sutton, but they all called him Uncle Billy.  "Will," I said, "Uncle Billy, what is the nature of your case?"  He replied, "They have arrested me for stealing Aunty Crowley's turkey."  I said, "Well, Uncle Billy, did you steal Aunty Crowley's turkey?"  He said, "Yes."  "Well," said I, "can they prove it?"  "Yes," said he, "there was a man with me when I took it, and they have got him for a witness."  "Well," said I, "how do you expect me to clear you when they have an eye-witness to your guilt?"  He said, "I don't know, only Frink told me to employ you and you would get me out of it."  I then interrogated him further and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The turkey was taken home and cooked, the boys undoubtedly enjoying the feast.  But after a time the young fellow "leaked," and Aunty Crowley, learning what had been the fate of her turkey, made complaint and had Uncle Billy arrested for stealing it; and he was then under an arrest and permitted to come and get counsel, the boys having bailed him; for, as I afterwards learned, they all liked Uncle Billy, and he was anything but a thief.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I soon found that they had the young man who was with Uncle Billy under summons as a witness and were keeping a close lookout for him.  The justice who issued the warrant of arrest was Esqurie Vernon, of upper Placerville.  He was an old hard-shell Baptist deacon, and was very much down on any infraction of the criminal code.  I accompanied my man, Uncle Billy, up to the room where I found the court, Johnson, prosecuting attorney, Cock-eyed Jack Johnson, an assistant (being a good friend of Aunty Crowley), and the constable (L. B. Hopkins, I believe), Hopkins or Charley Trueman; but I am satisfied it was Hopkins.  (Now, friend <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Well, Johnson (the prosecutor), who was one of those well-bred, pompous men, with a great corporosity, sat back in his chair, with his thumbs in the sides of his vest, believing that he had the case dead; but for once he was destined to learn that "dead things sometimes crawl."</P>
189.sgm:<P>I walked up to the justice, to whom I was an entire stranger, and asked to see the papers in the case.  He passed them over to me, I examined them, saw that they were all in form, that the charge was petit larceny for feloniously taking, stealing, and carrying away one turkey, being the property of Mary Ann Crowley, of the price and value of five dollars, all of which was, etc.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I asked that the prisoner be arraigned, and he pleaded not guilty.  I had before this time had Uncle Billy point out to me the witness, who sat on a bench not far from the door.  I said, "Your honor, we will take a jury in this case."  A <HI REND="italics">venire</HI>
189.sgm: was issued and Hopkins went out to summon the jury.  As soon as he was gone, I stepped along to where the witness sat, gave him a tip and walked downstairs.  He was not long in following.  When we got to the bottom of the stairs, I remarked, "Well, you are the witness who is going to swear against Uncle Billy to send him to jail."  He began to half whimper and said, "I did not want to, but they made me do it."  I now remarked that it was unfortunate, as I understood from Uncle Billy that he had carried the turkey part of the way.  He said, "Yes, I carried it a piece."  "Well," said I, "if you send Uncle Billy below for stealing the turkey, I shall have to send you along to keep him company; for, if he is guilty, you are <HI REND="italics">particeps</HI>
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189.sgm:<HI REND="italics">criminis</HI>
189.sgm:<P>There was a round hill less than half a mile distant, and on the other side was what was known as Long Can&tilde;on, that led off in a westerly direction, very brushy and rough.  I said to him, "All right; I will act as your counsel.  Do you see the top of that hill, yonder?"  "Yes," said he.  "Then let that portion of the floursack on the opposite side to your face disappear behind that hill as soon as your legs and God will let it be done."  He said, "They will see me."  I replied that the coast was clear, and bade him go.  And it was one of the prettiest against time (uphill at that) that I ever saw.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I immediately walked upstairs.  Cock-eye Johnson (or Jack Johnson) saw me return alone, when he exclaimed, "Where is the witness?  I will bet a hundred dollars that cuss has run him off."  At this he looked through the window, through which I was watching the progress of my friend, when he exclaimed, "Yes; by G--d, there he goes!"  Hopkins had just stepped into the room, when he and Jack Johnson took after him; but my young racer soon distanced them and they returned panting.  (Don't think that L. B. was then the venerable, white-whiskered Hopkins of to-day, in San Francisco; oh! no; he was spry as a cat and lively as an eel.)</P>
189.sgm:<P>Then the prosecuting attorney arose in dignity and addressed the court, asking for a continuance of the case, as I had undoubtedly tampered with the witness and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The same day of the race, in the evening, I received a note from my runaway client, then at Coloma (ten miles distant), asking me when he could come back; he was afraid some one would jump his claim.  I wrote to him to stay there, as he valued his liberty, until I told him to come, and that I would look out for his claim (which I did).</P>
189.sgm:<P>The two days elapsed and no witness!  I again moved to discharge the prisoner.  Johnson asked for another continuance of two days, which was granted.  At the end of the two days, I demanded trial; but the court granted continuance till the statute of rights was exhausted, and no witness being heard of, I forced them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Well, Uncle Billy was one of the fortunate miners.  His claim turned out to be one of the richest in that section of the country, and, as Uncle Billy often renewed his visit to the widow's, some of the miners were wicked enough to assert that one of two things was certain:  that Uncle Billy either was paying for the turkey in installments, or else he was hanging around to steal another.  But it turned out different from what they expected; for at the end of six months Uncle Billy stole the widow, turkeys and all; and true to her opinion of Uncle Billy's honesty, she brought no action for the last larceny.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>AN EXCITING HORSE-STEALING CASE.</P>
189.sgm:<P>ABOUT the time of the occurrence mentioned in the preceding chapter, a party by the name of Higgins came to me and wanted to retain me to defend him and three associates, charged with stealing eight head of mules and horses.  The parties had been arrested in Placerville, but the offense was charged to have been committed in Sacramento County; hence, under the statute, the prisoners would have to be tried in that county, and be examined for committal before the nearest and most accessible justice.  I allowed myself to be retained for their defense, and the whole city was very indignant to think that I would defend them--even threatening to hang the prisoners and their attorney with them.  Threats were freely exchanged, and finally the officers in charge of the prisoners, in their zeal, boasted that they would take the prisoners before N. Greene Curtis, who was then recorder of Sacramento City, where they would be prosecuted by James Hardy, the "bull-dog" prosecuting attorney, and Norton would get into deep water, where he could neither wade nor swim.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I came to the conclusion that I would block their little game, if possible, and get an examination before the first justice that we came to in Sacramento County.  The officers were going to take the prisoners down by stage, at five o'clock in the morning.  I went to the livery stables to procure a team to go to Salmon Falls, but to my surprise I could not get a team or horse, for love or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>When the stage arrived I got aboard, and found my four prisoners, with their hands bound behind them, in charge of two officers.  I had subsequently learned that the next hotel was kept by a justice of the peace of Sacramento County, and finding an opportunity to whisper to one of the prisoners, whose name was Wilson, I told him to tell the rest of the boys, when he came to the hotel, to insist on getting out to get a drink.  Accordingly, on arriving at the house, they all claimed to be very thirsty and were permitted to get out of the stage and go into the house for a drink.  I followed the officers with their prisoners into the bar room, and asked the landlord, "Are you a justice of the peace of Sacramento County?"  He answered, "Yes."  I asked, "Are you duly elected and qualified?"  He replied, "I am."  I further inquired, "Are you ready to take jurisdiction of this case?"  He answered, "Yes."</P>
189.sgm:<P>I then turned to the officers and prisoners and said, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>On our arrival at Sacramento the prisoners were taken before Judge Curtis, recorder of the city, whereupon I moved to dismiss the prisoners, as the court had no jurisdiction of the case, and the court sustained my motion.  Hardy, the prosecuting attorney, asked the police to guard the prisoners until he could make a new complaint; but in the hurry of writing his complaint, he omitted to state the venue, and I again moved that the case be dismissed, as the prisoners might have stolen the horses in South America, where that court would have no jurisdiction.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The prisoners were again discharged, and were again <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:guarded by the officers until Hardy drew another complaint, and they were once more arrested.  Not having the name of the prosecutor before him, he omitted to insert his name in the complaint, and I took it up and read, "Blank paper being duly sworn, deposes and says"--and added, "I suppose your honor cares to hear no more of this.  I move that the prisoners be discharged."  The order was made, dismissing the prisoners, whereupon Hardy swore roundly, and dashed off another complaint; this I examined, as before, and found that he had omitted to attach any value to the stolen property.  I read the complaint to the court, and remarked that in order to maintain larceny the thing taken must be of some value; if petit larceny, it must be under the value of fifty dollars, and if grand larceny, it must be over the value of fifty dollars; but as no value was stated, the court must presume that the animals alleged to have been stolen were <HI REND="italics">ferce naturoe</HI>
189.sgm:<P>By this time Hardy had become perfectly cool, and now said, "Gentlemen, I propose to draw up a complaint;" and he did.  This time the document was in every way sufficient, and I demanded an examination.  The prosecution asked for a continuance.  The court, after argument, and on the showing of the prosecution that there were four others engaged in the larceny, that the officers were after them, and that there was informatin that they had been arrested, decided that the examination might go on, but should it appear that there was evidence in the case which could not then be obtained, then he would grant a continuance, giving opportunity to produce it.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>The examination was then opened, and the prosecution called Murphy, the constable, who was present at the arrest, to the stand.  He swore that he was present and assisted in the arrest of the prisoners; that the horses and mules were not found in their possession, but that Higgins had confessed to the officers and parties connected with the arrest that they, the four prisoners, were implicated in the stealing, and that the animals were in possession of the other four partners in the matter.  In cross-examining the witness I asked him if Higgins, on his first interrogation, had admitted the taking of the animals.  He replied, "No; at first he denied it."  I then asked him how he had come to admit it afterward.  He said that they had put a rope around his neck, drew him up on a limb, and let him hang for a while, then let him down asked him if he was ready to confess the crime.  The accused again told them in reply that they had not taken the horses.  Then the party proceeded again with the hanging, and continued the process until the third time, when a full confession was made, as heretofore sworn to.  Upon this statement, I moved to strike out the entire testimony of the witness, as the confession had been extorted by duress.  The motion was sustained.  The witness also swore that the other four prisoners were in possession of the animals, and that they were expected to be in the next day; whereupon the court continued the case, and sent the prisoners to the prison-brig to await the arrival of the other parties.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I made my way to the brig, and directed the prisoners that when their associates arrived they must be entire strangers to them, and leave the rest to me.  I watched the arrival of the other prisoners, and found an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>My instructions were strictly carried out.  The last lot employed Abe Ward to defend them.  He was, I think the most eloquent man I ever knew.  I was also retained to assist him in their defense.  I asked to sever in the examination, and to arraign the four men for whom I had first been employed as counsel, and continue their examination.  There was no opposition and the examination proceeded.  The prosecution immediately called the four parties last arrested: each one as he took the stand was asked if he knew the prisoners, and each answered that he had never seen them until they met them on the prison-brig, and knew nothing of them nor their antecedents.  I again asked that the prisoners be discharged, and asked the court to furnish an escort of police to guard them out of the city, as they were threatened by a mob.  The court granted the motion, I bade the poor devils good-by, and they departed.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But it was not thus with the other four; the property was found in their possession, and there was no means by which we could account for that possession; and Abe and myself, after fighting the thing for three days, had the satisfaction of seeing them held for trial, a result which I did not expect.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>291</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>OPPOSITION TO LYNCH LAW.</P>
189.sgm:<P>IN the spring of 1853, society commenced forming, and as permanent settlements were made in and about the mines, the civil law began to be appealed to in the settlement of difficulties between the inhabitants of the country, and during that summer many of us concluded that the "Hangtown Oak" needed no further ornamenting with human bodies dangling from its limbs; accordingly we organized, some eighty in number, in the interest of law and order, and determined that promiscuous hanging should be stopped, and that the laws of the country should be enforced in all cases, criminal as well as civil.</P>
189.sgm:<P>A short time after this organization was consummated one Hughes, living on Hangtown Hill, near Coon Hollow, in a fit of jealousy, killed a man with an ax, both of the parties being drunk.  The murderer was arrested and brought over to Placerville by the civil authorities, and lodged in Squire Doyle's office for examination.  He had been there but a short time when the miners from Coon Hollow and the surrounding country gathered in and demanded the prisoner, which of course was refused.  The parties to our organization were scattered through the crowd, and in an unorganized state.  The justice's office was in a two-story building, on the second floor, with a balcony in front.  The sheriff and myself were quietly left to guard the stairs, while several of our organization went out to hunt up the rest and organize.  We stood upon the stairs while an infuriated mob, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>A big butcher from Coon Hollow, who was in advance, attempted to wrest my arm from the banister where I had stretched it out to prevent their coming up, when I presented my pistol and told him that I would kill him unless he desisted.  In this manner we held them back for about half an hour, when our boys were fully organized and made their way through the crowd.  A portion of them took possession of the stairs to keep the crowd back, and the others stationed themselves in the court room to insure order, while the prisoner was having his preliminary examination.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Suddenly there was a bed-cord, with a noose, thrown over the prisoner's head, and the other end quickly thrown from the balcony down among the excited crowd.  The prisoner was dragged up to the banisters of the balcony and in an instant more would have been over the balcony and down amongst the crowd, when R. M. Anderson (afterward lieutenant-governor of the State) jerked a Bowie-knife from his boot and cut the rope.  We then hustled the prisoner into a small back room and thence up a back stairway, where he was disguised in a different suit of clothes, which had been smuggled in for the purpose.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We had in the meantime procured ten saddle-horses, which ten of our organization mounted and rode up in front of the justice's office.  One man, of course, did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>293</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>There was now at least ten thousand men in the crowd, which literally packed the plaza, and as they rushed forward every one of us on horseback drew our revolvers and presented them, when the crowd began to surge backwards; and the throng was so dense and the press so sudden that men were pushed with great violence through the store windows on the opposite side of the plaza, causing a fearful crash.  We then, with the prisoner, taking advantage of the confusion, charged through the crowd and dashed off for Coloma, the county seat.  We arrived safely, with our prisoner, and I do not think that any man was ever more anxious to get out of prison than he was to get safely in.  To conclude this sketch, Hughes was tried, convicted, and hanged at the same time that Logan was hanged at Coloma, we having had a somewhat similar experience with Logan.</P>
189.sgm:<P>There was no more lynching in El Dorado County.  The old Hangtown Oak was cut down and principally manufactured into canes, which are carefully kept in remembrance of the days of gold excitement, riot, and blood-shed.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MYSTERIOUS ROBBERY, AND THE ROBBER'S CONFESSION.</P>
189.sgm:<P>AT the time referred to in the preceding chapter, I was a widower, and had erected a nice dwelling-house in the center of Placerville.  Before erecting the building I had boarded at the Eagle Hotel, kept by Mrs. E.W. McKinstry, and, by the way, she had a history.  She had a fine education and commanding appearance, was a lady in demeanor, and at the time of her marraige with McKinstry was the widow of Professor Webb, of Indianapolis, Indiana.  She came to California in 1850, with her husband, who soon sickened and died.  She was rather a devotee of the church.  Being left with but little means, she was compelled to do something for the maintenance of herself and little child, and engaged in baking pies.  Having the sympathy of the community generally, she was extensively patronized, and at the end of two years had accumulated about nine thousand dollars in gold-dust, when a man by the name of McKinstry, rather pleasing in appearance, having the reputation of being wealthy, was introduced to her by the clergyman of her church as being a good and pious man.  He was represented as one that would make her happy and be a father to her child, and his suit was so insidiously pressed that she was at length induced to marry him.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The marriage proved to be an unfortunate and unhappy one for her.  It came to light that the preacher was unscrupulous villain, and that McKinstry, in order to induce him to further his interests, had paid him five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>295</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>She conducted the hotel about two years, when, from excitement and excessive labor, she had very much wrecked her constitution and nerves, and she and her husband had lived a "cat and dog life."  At length she found an opportunity to rent the hotel, and sought another residence.  McKinstry came to me and proposed that if I would let them go into my house, which was well furnished, I should have my room and board with them as rent, to which I readily consented.</P>
189.sgm:<P>They had remained several months in my house, when the Kern River gold excitement arose, and McKinstry decided to go to the new mines.  He asked me if it would be agreeable to have his family remain in my house while he was absent, about four months.  I at first objected to the arrangement, but on his insisting I finally acceded to his wishes, and his wife and her little son, some twelve years of age, continued to reside in the house.</P>
189.sgm:<P>When McKinstry had been absent some two months, two or three letters arrived from his mother and other friends, who resided in the East.  Woman-like, his wife <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>296</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Time rolled on, and McKinstry did not return until the expiration of eight months.  During this time my sister and her husband, one Dr. Alexander, a man whom she had married at Oshkosh, Wisconsin, and who was keeping a large drug store there at the time, visited me at Placerville.  They had been there some two weeks, when I thought it would be a good opportunity, they remaining in the house with Mrs. McKinstry, for me to go and visit a ranch for which I had traded property in Placerville.  It was situated in Monterey County, and the trip occupied about ten days.</P>
189.sgm:<P>On my return home I found Mrs. McKinstry almost crazy, from the fact that she had been robbed, the night before, of all her gold-dust, amounting to about seven thousand dollars, including a lot of fine specimens and some valuable jewelry.  Her gold-dust was stored in bottles, while the specimens and jewelry were in a small tin box, and as at that day there were no safes or places of deposit, when McKinstry left she requested me to secrete her gold-dust and jewelry.  She had made this request because of an attempted robbery a few nights after her husband had left home.  It was between nine and ten o'clock, just before I had retired to bed, Mrs. McKinstry having gone to bed.  She and Livey, her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>297</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I quietly slipped out around the house, and as I turned the corner I received a blow from a slung shot, or some other missile, that made me "see stars."  The blow did not knock me down, but staggered me.  I turned and ran into the house for my rifle, and rushed out again, but could see no one.  However, on examination, I found a wash-tub turned bottom side up beneath their window, with a bar lying across it.  So the next day Mrs. McKinstry requested me to secrete her dust, speciments, and jewelry.  I took the gold-dust in the bottles, ripped off a portion of the lining in the kitchen and slipped the bottles in between the wash-board and the studding, and carefully put back the lining as before.  It was a story-and-a-half house, with box cornice.  I took the box of jewelry and specimens to my room and slipped them in between the plate and the rafters, down into the box cornice.</P>
189.sgm:<P>On the night of the robbery, Dr. Alexander had invited my sister and Mrs. McKinstry and son to go to the theater.  They had gone from the house some little distance, when Dr. Alexander remarked that he had forgotten his purse, having left it in the pocket of another pair of pants, and he returned to the house to get it.  He was gone but a few minutes when he joined the party again and they together proceeded to the theater.  On their return home, on entering the house the first thing noticed was that the lining in the kitchen was slit, and next the gold missing.  Mrs. McKinstry went into her bedroom to take off her wraps, and there found <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>298</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>These were the circumstances attending the robbery, and the woman was almost frantic over her losses.  I did not know what to think about it, but had a vague idea that no stranger could have committed the robbery, as she did not believe she had confided to any person where the money was hid.  But as fate would have it, McKinstry had arrived the same evening that I did.  It struck me as possible that he might have come to town the night before, and in their absence had perpetrated the robbery.  And yet I could not conceive how it was possible for him to have any idea where the treasure was hid.  His wife refused to have anything to say to him when he returned further than to inform him of the infamous letters she had received.</P>
189.sgm:<P>My suspicions were divided between Alexander and McKinstry.  However, I said nothing to any person as to my ideas of the matter, but went quietly, after dark, and scattered ashes upon the paths leading to and from the house, so that in case anybody should go in or out they would leave the impress of their feet upon the paths.  I believed that if any person about the premises had taken the money it would have been secreted at no great distance from the house.  The next morning I examined my traps of ashes and discovered that no person had entered or left the house by any of the regular avenues.  On the following morning I commenced a close search of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>299</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>There had been an old wash-tub sunk in the well, by placing in it, to keep it from falling to pieces by the drought.  I commenced punching into the well and also into the tub with the pole, to see whether I could feel anything in the bottom, when the doctor, some distance off, exclaimed, "I have found it!  I have found it!"  I immediately left the well and went over to where he was, and found that he had turned over a flat stone beneath which were two big toads.  He commenced laughing, and turned it off as a capital joke.  I did not return to the well, and we soon abandoned our search in the yard.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Time passed by, and when it became known that the money was stolen, speculation became rife as to who were the guilty parties.  In a short time Dr. Alexander and his wife moved to Santa Clara County, and there established themselves in a hotel.  When they left and had got as far as Stockton I procured a warrant of arrest and had them and everything about them thoroughly searched; but there were no traces giving any evidence to hold them.</P>
189.sgm:<P>When the affair had been thoroughly discussed by the community at large, and all the circumstances of the robbery were known, it was generally believed that I had been at the bottom of the robbery; that I had got Alexander and his wife there, had disclosed to them the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>300</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>McKinstry continued to come around, and he and his wife were in a perpetual quarrel, she utterly refusing to live with him.  Finally Mrs. McKinstry requested me to institute suit for a bill of divorce on the ground of extreme cruelty, he having struck her and choked her on several occasions.  This I declined to do, on account of my having been mixed up in her affairs, but I advised her to get a good lawyer and proceed to obtain a bill if she so wished.  She took my advice, employed W. H. Brumfield, and procured a bill.  But before proceeding she left my house and occupied a room in her hotel.  There were several parties, including some of the first men of the town, who proposed to marry her; but their proposals being rejected, and finding that she thought a great deal of me, and considering previous circumstances, I proposed, was accepted, and married her.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We had lived together about a year, when I received a letter from my sister, Mrs. Alexander, stating that Alexander was the robber; that he had confessed the whole thing to her.  He said that on one occasion the cat had attempted to get through the lining of the house where a small hole had been gnawed by a mouse, which caused Mrs. McKinstry to become quite excited and rush for the cat to drive it away.  And knowing that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>302</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>301</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>He further stated that I had come very near finding it, and had he not attracted my attention by unearthing the toads, I would have found the treasure; and as it was, I punched several holes in the handkerchief.  But a few days afterward, when all were absent, he ventured to take the dust out of the well and put it and the specimens all into a buckskin sack together, hiding the jewelry under some of the top stones of the well.  In case of accident the dust and specimens could not then be so readily identified.  He therefore hid the buckskin sack outside the yard.  But a few nights afterward, when the women thought he was down town, he took the dust and carried it to Prospect Flat, about four miles from Placerville, and buried it in the bank of the South Fork Canal, under the end of the bridge where the road crossed.</P>
189.sgm:<P>My sister then went on to say that she told her <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>303</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>302</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>After his wife discovered that he was not coming back, she wrote to me, giving me the foregoing information, that we might go and find the gold.  The first thing I did was to go to the old well.  I lifted a few stones, and soon found the jewelry.  I then took the old tub out of the well and there found the truth of Alexander's assertion that I had punched holes in his handkerchief, as there was about seventy-three dollars' worth of the gold-dust left in the tub.  I then got my brother William to accompany me, and went in the night to the South Fork Canal, to the place described, and made a vigorous search for the money; but we found nothing.  We then went into the ditch and into the water in hopes of finding the prize, supposing that it might have slid down from the bank into the ditch, but were again unsuccessful.  We then made arrangements with the ditch-tender at Negro Hill to shut off the water at night and give us an opportunity to hunt.  But, to make a long story short, we never found the dust, and the only conclusion we could arrive at was that Alexander had carried it off.  Subsequently my wife lost her little boy, when she became nearly broken-hearted; and, having been for some years afflicted with tape-worm, she sank by degrees and died at the end of four years after our marriage.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>PLACERVILLE GUARDS--COUNTY SEAT CONTEST.</P>
189.sgm:<P>THERE had been considerable difficulty on the plains from the frequent attacks of Indians upon the immigrant trains; and it was thought proper at Placerville to raise a military company to be ready in case their assistance should be demanded.  Consequently, under the order of Governor Bigler, I proceeded to raise and organize a company, known as the "Placerville Guards," and was commissioned captain.  It being the third military company raised in the State, we were attached to no other command.  We were uniformed and armed by the State, were well drilled, and maintained our organization about two years, having been called out on many occasions to preserve order in times of excitement.  Amongst other special duties, we were called out to act as guard at the execution of Mickey Free and Crane.  We also received orders to proceed to San Francisco, on behalf of the State government, in the vigilance committee affair; but some opponents of the move stole our arms, and thereby stopped the expedition, after which I resigned my command, but not until the trouble was over and the arms had been restored.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Placerville at this day was one of the leading cities of the State, and there was a great contest between it and Coloma, Placerville claiming that the county seat should be located there instead of at Coloma.  There was no doubt that a large portion of the voting population was in favor of Placerville, but the county officers were nearly all located at Coloma, most of them being <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>304</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>We were in the habit each year of circulating petitions to present to the legislature, asking an act of that body removing the county seat from Coloma to Placerville, and each year I was called upon to canvass the northern part of the county.  My beat included Georgetown, and I knew that the leading men of that place were opposed to the removal.  So, upon the occasion to which I now refer, I went to every tunnel and can&tilde;on, around the place, where the miners did not care a cent whether the county seat was at Placerville or Coloma, or whether or not we had any county seat at all.  Soliciting in this way, I obtained a large list of names, and about the third day entered the town, where I obtained but very few signatures.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In the evening I went to the hotel and put up for the night, and between eight and nine o'clock I was called upon by a deputation from Mr. Conness and others, requesting me to call upon them, as they were holding an impromptu meeting.  I walked over to the hall where they were assembled, and there found Conness and several other leading magnates of the town, about fifty in all.  When I inquired their pleasure, Mr. Conness informed me that I had been reported as a spy in camp and as I was a military man I probably knew the fate of spies in general, when taken, and, though they did not intend to inflict the extreme penalty on me, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I saw their trap, and knowing that the people of El Dorado County were bitterly opposed to a division of the county, I replied, "Mr. Conness, I am not blessed with such pleasing powers; I haven't even the honor of belonging to the county seat committee; but if you will kindly put your proposition in writing, under the signatures of your committee here, I will submit it to our county seat committee for their action.  Then they "put their foot in it," and drew up and signed their proposition.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I returned to the hotel at once, paid my bill, mounted my horse and was off.  I arrived at Placerville about midnight, immediately called up Dr. Obed Harvey, and the committee soon assembled.  I then produced the proposition of the Georgetown committee for their action.  They said, "Well, what do you want to do about it?  What do you wish us to do?"  I said, "Give it an emphatic refusal, by resolution."  They could not see what object there was in it.  I told them that the fate of our petition in the western townships of the county depended upon prompt action.  They finally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>306</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I drew up a resolution refusing to comply with the request of the Georgetown committee, rushed to the printing office, and had a thousand extras struck off; and at half-past four in the morning was in my saddle, and with about half a dozen of our most enterprising citizens, rode through Diamond Springs distributing the extras containing the proposition of Georgetown and the refusal of the county seat committee at Placerville.  When we arrived at Mud Springs we met Mr. Conness, who, with his crowd from Georgetown, was assiduously distributing the news that the Placerville county seat committee were going in for a division of the county.  When we came up they positively denied having ever made such a proposition, and that the extras were all a lie; where-upon I pulled out Mr. Conness' proposition, in his own handwriting, and showed the truth of our statements.  Mr. Conness and his crowd sneaked back to Georgetown, and the result was that we got the signatures of three-fourths of all the voters of the southern and western parts of the county.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The legislature was soon afterward convened, Conness being a member, and the petitions were presented.  Now the rule in presenting petitions was that each party should verify under oath the genuineness of the signatures; so when Mr. Conness, who was opposed to the movement, was reported to have said that the petition from Georgetown was a libel and a forgery, and that he had said it to John O'Connell, of course all eyes were turned upon me to know what I would say <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>"To the Honorable John Conness, Legislative Hall, Sacramento City:--I have been informed that you stated on the floor of the legislature that the petition purporting to come from the people of Georgetown was a libel and a forgery.  I hope that the Honorable John Conness did not so say.  If he did, I say that John Conness is a liar, a paltroon, and a coward, and if he takes exceptions to this I refer him to my friend Dr. Keene, of the Senate."</P>
189.sgm:<P>I passed the note to the county seat committee, with instructions to do with it as they pleased.  Everybody was crying out, "A duel!" and I expected myself that I should have to stand up to the rack; but, to my surprise, at the end of two days I received a note from Mr. Conness, in which he denied having used the language, but stated, "What I did say was that I did not see the names of any of the prominent citizens of Georgetown on the petition, and I thought there must be some mistake about its being a petition from the citizens of Georgetown; and this I did not say on the floor of the legislature, but I said it to an intimate friend, John O'Connell, and did not expect him to tell it."</P>
189.sgm:<P>The next day I received another letter from Conness, stating, among other things, that when I came to know him better, perhaps I would not think him as big a liar as I then did.  The petitions were presented to the legislature and the best that the friends of Placerville could do was to get a bill passed submitting the location of the county seat to a vote of the people of the county at a special election, the day being fixed by the legislature.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>During the interim both parties were electioneering their best.  The night before the election I was in Clarksville at the western boundary of the county, when a courier brought me a note, saying, "Hasten to White Oak Township; Constantine Hicks is preparing to practice a mammoth fraud upon the ballots of that precinct."  I accordingly lost no time in getting upon the ground.  Now there was a valley about one mile wide, through which the road ran, crossing the valley at right angles.  Hicks kept a hotel on the hill on the east side of the valley, and there was another hotel on the hill on the west side of the valley, the two houses being one mile apart.  The note I had received informed me that the committee had sent a man over from Placerville to assist me in guarding the polls.  I came in on the west side and stopped at that hotel to observe how things were going.  I there met Gage, who was drunk as a fool.  He staggered up to me and, with a drunken hiccough, said, "We have got Hicks; he is all right."  I looked at him and replied, "I guess Hicks has got you."  I then charged him not to touch another drop of liquor until the polls closed the next day.  He promised that he would not.  The sun had set before my arrival; I saw by the notices of election that the place of holding the polls was fixed at Hicks', but written underneath was, "Changed to this place, by order of the board of supervisors."  But no one had signed the writing to show authority for the change.  I then directed Gage to return to Hicks' and stay all night, which he did.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The next morning I was up in good time, and believing that there was no danger excepting where Hicks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Presently a big, rough, blustering fellow came in and personally addressing me, said, "What the h--l are you doing here?  We miners generally do as we please; we don't want any of your kind sneaking about here."  I replied, "I can't help what you want, I shall sneak around as long as I please."  He retorted, "I'll be d--d if you do," and commenced drawing his six-shooter.  I immediately covered him with a cocked revolver and told him to "put that thing back."  He proceeded to do so, when another one, pretending to be drunk, staggered up to the table where the ballot-box stood, brought down his fist and smashed it to pieces, saying, "D--n the ballot-box! who wants an election?"</P>
189.sgm:<P>During the confusion I had lost track of Hicks, and rushing to the door, I looked down the road and there I saw Hicks on his little black mare, going at the top of her speed, being near his own place.  I started right away after him as fast as I could travel; but when I got there I found the polls open and parties proceeding with the voting.  I hurried to the polls and tendered my vote, and counting the votes said, "Gentlemen, my vote <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>310</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>We returned to the house; I sauntered around and went into an unoccupied room where there was a table and several benches, with papers scattered over the floor.  It looked as though there had been some caucasing done there.  I examined the papers on the floor and discovered some long slips of passenger lists cut from newspapers.  I quietly gathered them up and put them in my pocket, and again mingled with the crowd around the polls.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>Now the White Oak precinct would legitimately poll from one hundred and sixty to one hundred and eighty votes.  I stepped to the table where they were voting, stuck my fingers beneath the sheets where the legitimate votes were recorded and raised them up, showing sheet after sheet with long lists of names.  I said to the board, "Are you going to count these out on me to-night?"  They hung their heads, but made no reply.</P>
189.sgm:<P>At the proper time the polls were closed, and they commenced counting the votes, turning back to the commencement of the spurious list.  I then remarked to them again, "Gentlemen, before I would be guilty of such an action as this, I would suffer my right arm to be cut off at the shoulder."  They made no reply, but went on with their count.  Hicks gave to Coloma his one thousand votes, and something over.  During the progress of the count I noticed several names which I had on the steamboat list in my pocket.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Placerville was beaten, when charges of fraud were brought before the grand jury against Constantine Hicks and the election board of White Oak Township.  I was summoned before the grand jury and made my statement.  I told the jurors that if they would examine the returns (one copy of which had to be filed, and as the old doctor's was the only one that was legible, it had been forwarded), at about number 850 on the poll-list, they would find where they commenced numbering from one to fifteen votes, and that the figures would be blurred upon the paper by something having been rubbed over them while they were yet wet; and at this point the legitimate voting had commenced.  The grand jury sent for the list and upon examination found it just as I had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>It is needless to say that the grand jury found a true bill against Hicks and his associates, but the case never came to a trial.  The county judge and the district attorney were residents of Coloma, with their interests all centered in that place, and when the case was called for trial, the district attorney moved to enter a <HI REND="italics">nolle pros</HI>
189.sgm:<P>The next year Placerville was again before the legislature with sufficient influence to get another bill passed submitting the county seat question to a vote of the people of the county, when from some strange influence Hicks had become converted from the errors of his way, and White Oak Township cast a very large vote for Placerville, which, having a majority of the votes cast, was declared to be, and still is, the county seat of El Dorado County.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVIII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>A TRIP TO MONTEREY COUNTY.</P>
189.sgm:<P>IN a previous chapter I have incidentally mentioned a business tour to Monterey County, and I will now devote a short chapter to some incidents of the trip.  It was in the summer of 1853, while I was living at Placerville, that a man came in from South San Juan, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>But as I did not start in to write the history of my horse, I will proceed with my story.  I had passed Stockton, and in making inquiries as to the route was informed that I had better, probably, cross at Firebaugh's Ferry and go down to and through the San Juan Valley.  But there was a shorter, though dangerous route; I could cross by a ferry higher up the San Joaquin, pass up the southerly bank of that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The ferryman had a small skiff in which he said he could get me across; but how about the horse?  I informed him that Billy would take care of himself.  I removed the saddle, bridle, and blankets, put them into the skiff, and we were soon on the opposite shore.  As <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I continued up the stream for a long distance, in search of a certain unoccupied house, where I was to leave the river and strike across the plain to the San Luis Rancho.  After many miles of travel, I concluded I must soon reach a habitation, as I saw far in the distance a large flock of sheep, as I supposed; but, on a nearer approach, I discovered that they were not sheep, but antelope; in fact, it was the largest band of antelope I ever saw.  But in course of time, without further adventure, I came to the old house and there found a trail leading across the valley, said to be twenty-one miles, to the San Luis Rancho.  I had not rode far until I saw a vast band of wild horses that came running directly towards me.  They came to within twenty or thirty rods of me, with heads and tails in the air, snorting and playing.  Then they commenced running around me and fairly encircled me, but always keeping at a respectful distance.  This operation they kept up for an hour or more, when they beat a hasty retreat towards the San Luis Rancho, at which place I arrived just before sunset.</P>
189.sgm:<P>There I found a boy about twelve years of age, who spoke very good English.  I asked him if I could turn my horse out to feed and stay all night at the ranch.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:informed me that I could, and showed me where to turn my horse out.  I noticed that there was a very nice house on the place, and another quite large but rough structure.  He took me to the latter place and told me that was the men's quarter, and that I could get my supper there.  When he left me I walked round the premises, and noticed some very long poles, or small-sized trees, with the bark peeled off, placed in crotches set in the ground.  Each of these poles was from sixty to seventy feet long, lying in the crotches horizontally and parallel with each other.  I could not imagine what they were for; but presently up rode a Mexican, armed with revolver and knife.  Dismounting he took off the saddle and put it on one of these smooth poles; then came another and another until the poles were filled with saddles, and before the night fairly closed in, there were filled with saddles, and before the night fairly closed in, there were swarming around the yard fifty or sixty as positive specimens of Mexican bandits as one ever saw, all armed like the first.  I was astonished and scared.  In fact, I did not know what to do.  The boy came around, and I asked him who owned the place.  He informed me that his father owned it.  I asked his father's name.  He told me that it was Joaquin Balara.  That was sufficient.  Joaquin Murietta had just been killed and a part of his band captured, and the name Joaquin was all I sought to know.  But what was I to do?  The "Robber's Pass" lay before me through the mountains.  Escape would be impossible.  At last I concluded that the only thing that I could do was to take my chances among them.  I had in my life wormed out of many a tight spot, and perhaps I might, by hook or crook, get out of that.  But one thing I had resolved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In a short time there were immense kettles of bacon and beans produced, with tin plates to eat from, and tin cups for coffee, and bread but no butter.  I joined in and made a very satisfactory meal.  The crowd soon commenced singing, and seemed to heartily enjoy themselves.  I could understand much of their conversation, but when they addressed me, I pretended not to understand one word.  The evening wore on, and I began to look for a place to roost.  I noticed that there was a space under the stairs about seven feet long, where my head would be close to one wall, my feet to the stairs, and a wall back of me, leaving only the front for an attack.  Between nine and ten o'clock all had retired, the greater number going up-stairs. I was very tired from the day's exertions, and about ten or eleven o'clock I forgot myself, and was disappointed to awake in the morning without having my throat cut.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I got up and started out, and in a short time the boy of the previous evening came around.  I then for the first time made inquiry as to those men.  Before this I had not deemed an inquiry necessary.  I thought I understood what they were.  But the young fellow soon enlightened me.  He said they were his father's rancheros; that his father had about 10,000 head of sheep and 10,000 head of cattle, and about 8,000 horses; that the reason the men were so heavily armed was to protect the sheep and calves from the wild beasts.  He then showed me the skins of wolves, panthers, California lions, and two grizzly bears.  This showed me the necessity of arming the men, and that I had been "badly sold," <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We had a very pleasant trip.  My companion gave me the benefit of what little English he possessed; while in exchange, I gave him my best Spanish.  After we reached the valley lying between the foot-hills and San Juan, we struck a forest of mustard in which a man on horseback could have easily got lost had it not been for the trail.  I was on a fair-sized horse, but the mustard was several feet above my head and very thick on the ground.  After passing through that, we reached the wild-oats country, and the oats were so rank in many places that they had fallen down.  From the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>From this valley I crossed a rolling country for a short distance, when I brought up at San Juan, which then consisted of a hotel, store, and blacksmith shop.  I put up my horse, and, as I had a four or five days' beard on my face, my next inquiry was for a barber.  The landlord informed me that there was no barber in town, but the blacksmith would shave me.  I walked over to the shop and asked him if he shaved.  He was a Frenchman, and answered, "Oh yas, I shaves sometimes."  And when he had drawn his hot iron on the anvil, he threw down his hammer and tongs and directed me to sit down on the little bench used for sharpening horseshoe nails, when he took from the jamb of his forge a huge razor.  It looked more like a cleaver than a razor, and I never knew whether the blacksmith forged it out or whether it was Vulcan's first attempt at edge tools before the siege of Troy.  At least, it was a hard-looking specimen.  He gave it a few rakes over a strop nailed to the wall, daubed some lather on my face, and commenced operations.  The first rake over my face brought the beard out by the roots, with my tears, which had the effect to make me jump about a foot from my seat; then another and another in rapid succession, when I exclaimed in no very gentle voice, "For God's sake, hold on!" and he said, "Vat ish de matter--he bool?"  "Pull," roared I, "pull is no name for it!"  "Oh vell I trish another."  He then took down its twin brother, went through the same whetting process as before, and again commenced  work, when I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I took a run over the rancho, placed it in the hands of an agent, and returned to Placerville by the same route that I came, having a narrow escape from a set of cut-throats on returning through the Pacheco Pass.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I will here take occasion to say that, in 1883, on a journey from Los Angeles to San Francisco, as we came flying along on a Southern Pacific Railroad train, I could but wonder at the change in the San Joaquin Valley.  Now, as we approached, it opened out before us in all its beauty and grandeur--with its snug and cozy farmhouses, and cities, towns, and villages on every side.  Yes, thirty years have changed the face of the entire valley.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIX.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>DISTRICT ATTORNEY IN WESTERN UTAH.</P>
189.sgm:<P>IN 1855, the Mormons came into Carson Valley in force to make a settlement, claiming it to be a portion of Utah.  They organized and established themselves in Carson County.  Elder Orson Hyde was sent out as the leading spirit of the enterprise, and, by the way, they could not have sent a better man for the position.  The third judicial district of Utah was organized, and W. W. Drummond was appointed judge of the United States district court.  Orson Hyde was elected probate judge, but they had no district attorney, and Hyde came to Placerville and insisted upon my taking the appointment.  I consented and accompanied him to Carson Valley.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Genoa was a little center, where Col. John Reese resided; there was a store, a saw and grist-mill, and the place was dignified with the title of the village of Genoa.  On our arrival I found some two hundred Mormons camped, with tents, covered wagons, and shanties.  I soon found myself surrounded with Mormons, and my blankets, saddle-bags, overcoat, and traps generally were stripped from my horse and thrown down in a large tent which, from the appearance of things, seemed to be the tent of Hyde; and all seemed ready to perform the duties of body-guard generally to Hyde.  They rushed around and soon had a substantial meal prepared, to which the elder and myself did ample justice.</P>
189.sgm:<P>After dinner I went back to the big tent (which, by the way, was subdivided), and commenced looking for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>This was in the latter part of August, 1855.  The weather was warm, and the old elder, or rather the probate judge of Carson County, and myself stowed ourselves away in the tent, rolled in our blankets for the night.  We had not lain long before we had a realizing sense that there were about as many fleas as there were grains of sand under us, and that we were surrounded and covered with them to that extent that we were compelled to beat a hasty retreat and seek other quarters.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Now there was a beautiful cold mountain stream flowing through the place, running and sparkling over its sandy bed, and a large bowlder had parted the stream a short distance above our quarters, and left a little island of sand about ten feet wide and twenty feet long, with a nice flow of water each side of it.  I told the judge that I thought we might yet get the best of the fleas; that we could put a couple of armfuls of hay in the stream long enough to get the fleas out of it, then take it out onto the little islet, spread it out in the sun and let it dry; then soak our blankets for an hour, wring them out and let them dry; then put some poles and brush on the sand and put our hay onto that, and thus fortify against the fleas.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The idea struck the old judge favorably, and before night his slaves had carried the whole thing out to perfection, and it proved a success.  And before the week had elapsed there at least a dozen little islands with similar sleeping arrangements in the stream, made by throwing in rocks above and sand below.  It worked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>After a time our court was fairly organized, and when the business of the term was concluded, Orson Hyde and myself had become fast friends.  I found that the old man possessed a fine intellect, and a kind and genial disposition, all backed up by a liberal education.  He had a versatile mind, and was possessed of great energy of character.  This was about the time when there was quite a dispute regarding the location of the line between California and Utah.  The old man and myself took observations by the north star, not through a goose-quill.  but an instrument about as simple.  I say <HI REND="italics">we</HI>
189.sgm:<P>CAPT. L. A. NORTON-- <HI REND="italics">My Dear Sir</HI>
189.sgm::...To illustrate the present state of political affairs, allow me here to relate an anecdote.  Several years ago, a young lawyer in the little town of K--, in Ohio, by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:name of N. M., got very drunk, and cast anchor under the lee of a worm fence by the roadside, to snooze off the great quantity of steam which the fire of alcohol had raised or caused to generate in his boiler.  After enjoying this repose for a time, he was abruptly disturbed in his spirit dreams by the rough "hallo" of a passing stranger.  "Get up here," said the stranger, "who are you?"  The inebriate answered (rubbing his eyes and scratching his head, with an occasional yawn), "When I lay down here, I was N. M., the young lawyer; but now I don't know whether I'm Joe Smith, the prophet, or Sidney Rigdon, his spokesman."  The old political landmarks are broken down, and the lines of distinction cannot be traced.  A general <HI REND="italics">melee</HI>
189.sgm:<P>Our citizens bitterly complain about paying one-half per cent county tax upon a very low assessment, and one-fourth per cent territorial tax even after our legislature has appropriated the territorial tax to the use and benefit of this new county.  The citizens here are rather generous and public-spirited!  You may expect to see Carson County "excelsior" under this order of things.  They still claim, that is, some of them, that they are in California, though the line has been correctly established, I believe.  At the Lawson diggings, manifestly in California, they claim that they are in Utah, for the sole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I am a conscientious Mormon.  I live and practice that religion, expect to live and die in that faith, because I believe it to be true; and whatever faults its professors may have, however exaggerated, shakes my faith no more than the murders, thefts, robberies, and the vast catalogue of crimes that come in every week's papers from the Golden State, shakes yours in the political economy or code of California enactments.  I believe that the only crime (if crime it is) that the good people of this country can lay to my charge is, that I am a Mormon.  Some, however, care nothing about it.  Others think it a damning sin to be suffered in the midst of their profanity, general gambling, and horse-racing on the Sabbath and other days.  Still, the people are kind and neighborly.  But I have been very careful not to dishonor any of these entertainments, by being a participant, or even to be present; and I never intend to dishonor any such amusements, here or elsewhere, by my presence, when I can reasonably avoid it.  If mine <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>But I must stop talking to you so freely about things directly and indirectly connected with my religion, lest some may think, from the liberty I take with you in writing, that you also are a little tinctured with Mormonism.  But the freedom that I have indulged in with you arises from that natural friendship which I feel towards every frank and generous-minded man who, if he prefer to eat his goose, is equally willing that I should eat my turkey.  On this principle alone have I reason to claim a reciprocal affinity.</P>
189.sgm:<P>If, however, any man can take the good old-fashioned Bible, which all Christendom extols (but not too highly), and point out to me my error, philosophically and scripturally, he will bring me under an obligation which I should be happy to discharge by a renunciation of that error.<HSEP>Respectfully, your obedient servant,</P>
189.sgm:<P>ORSON HYDE.</P>
189.sgm:<P>GENOA, February 28, 1856.</P>
189.sgm:<P>CAPT. L. A. NORTON-- <HI REND="italics">My Dear Sir</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O my Father, thou that dwellest<LB>In the high and glorious place!<LB>When shall I regain thy presence,<LB>And again behold thy face?<LB>In thy holy habitation<LB>Did my spirit once reside?<LB>In my first primeval childhood<LB>Was I nurtured near thy side?<LB>"For a wise and glorious purpose<LB>Thou hast placed me here on earth,<LB>And withheld the recollection<LB>Of my former friends and birth;<LB>Yet ofttimes a secret something<LB>Whispered, You're a stranger here;<LB>And I felt that I had wandered<LB>From a more exalted sphere.<LB>"I had learned to call thee, Father,<LB>Through thy Spirit from on high;<LB>But until the key of knowledge<LB>Was restored, I knew not why.<LB>In the heavens are parents single?<LB>No! the thought makes reason stare;<LB>Truth is reason; truth eternal<LB>Tells me I've a mother there.<LB>"When I leave this frail existence,<LB>When I lay this mortal by,<LB>Father, mother, may I meet you<LB>In your royal court on high?<LB>Then, at length, when I've completed<LB>All you sent me forth to do,<LB>With your mutual approbation,<LB>Let me come and dwell with you."</HI>
189.sgm:<P>When the number of spirits destined from the beginning to emigrate to this world, ere the morning stars sang together or the sons of God shouted for joy, shall have obtained earthly tabernacles, or bodies of flesh and blood (and God grant that the purity, integrity, and devotion of thy conjugal atmosphere may be such as to invite a liberal number of the higher orders or grades of those spirits to seek an earthly home with you), then will be completed the great revolution of nations and kingdoms, and the kingdom of our God cover the earth <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The tide of immigration to this lower world has not been (mathematically speaking) in a ratio equal to the square of the distance from the creation (counting time for distance), in consequence of, perhaps, the know-nothings of California, who, I believe, are opposed to the influx of foreigners, preferring a life of "single blessedness," through the strange desire for gold, and who thereby check the tide of immigration by practically carrying out their principles.  Add to this the great drawback by premature deaths in wars, etc.  Yet wisdom, justified by her children, may have disclosed a partial remedy.  But why should I trouble you with that which may generally be considered a delusive fancy?  I will not trespass further with this subject.  Forgive the foregoing!</P>
189.sgm:<P>The last mail brought us the long-looked-for message of President Pierce.  I consider it a good one--plain, pertinent, reasonable, dignified, and true.  On the subject of our foreign relations, his reasoning is unostentatious, clear, generous, firm, and conclusive.  His remarks touching home affairs are highly conciliatory and just--even such as we might expect from a father who felt a deep solicitude for the welfare of every part of his family.  In short, it is just such a message as the condition of the country, both at home and abroad, requires.  In many sections, President Pierce has not had credit for his talent, ability, and statesmanship, to which the evidences in his late message justly entitle him.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But that the interests and honor of the American people should be so ingloriously tampered with at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:present critical state of affairs, by the political factions now in Washington, to whom that interest and honor have been generously and sacredly confided, is humiliating and mortifying in the extreme!  Quite too many are eager to carve out of the Constitution portions which their own selfish and disordered appetites may direct them to appropriate to personal aggrandizement or sectional party interests, while the great <HI REND="italics">Magna Charta</HI>
189.sgm:<P>There appears to be no lack of courage to defend party politics and interests; but who, and how many among them all, possess courage enough to yield a point, and "stoop a little to conquer"?  There is one striking instance on record clearly demonstrating that by yielding a most essential point both honor and the desired object were obtained.  In the days of Solomon, the wise king of Israel, two women claimed an infant child as its mother.  Of course only one of the women could be its mother.  Hence a serious dispute arose, the final adjustment of which was referred to the king.  He called for a sword to divide the child, with a proposition to give half to each claimant, as it was so very difficult to determine to which of the women it really did belong.  She who was not the mother would not yield, but consented to take half the child inasmuch as she could not have it all.  She sanctioned the proposal of Solomon!  But the other, with all the tender sympathies that swell <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>If our political men at Washington had really drawn from the breast of the Constitution the pure milk of sound policy, and had been raised to political manhood by its kindly nourishing properties, could they be so tardy in organizing the House?  Why profess friendship for the Constitution and deny the rights which it secures?</P>
189.sgm:<P>I was born and raised in the free States of the North, and have no personal predilection in favor of slavery.  Yet the terms of the original compact, to which the North and the South voluntarily subscribed, ought not to lose their binding force upon either party, only by the vluntary consent of both.  Through all the extension of territory subsequently acquired by the mutual exertions and enterprise of the northern and southern States, the rights of the South should run parallel with those of the North.  Take it up on one side and down on the other, and I can see no injustice or inequality in allowing the citizens of each new State to determine, by vote, whether it shall be a free or a slave State.  Any other course would savor too strongly of foreign legislation.  The Yankees of the North are about as quick to take up the line of march towards a new territory as the slave-holders of the South.  If they are not, it is their own fault.</P>
189.sgm:<P>It is agreed that liberty is national, and slavery <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>But for years I have marked the tide of events, and carefully noted the progress of affairs; and have beheld, in the foreground, with painful anxiety, the crisis that must be met.  I have also contemplated in sorrow and regret some of the causes that have indirectly and providentially led to the present political embarrassments that now threaten to afflict the country--causes which, though on record, are measurably lost sight of and forgotten by the nation; and yet, if fresh in the memory of all, they probably would not be believed.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>I am no politician; still I can hardly avoid entertaining some views upon every subject that commends itself to my attention.  If you shall consider them to contain anything curious, amusing, or beneficial, you are at liberty to use them as you may deem proper.</P>
189.sgm:<P>It becomes every man to act well his part, in these as well as in all other times, in the sphere in which he is destined to move--praying that an overruling Providence may guide our destiny in mercy, and crown the efforts of the just with glorious victory!</P>
189.sgm:<P>Till I see you, believe me as ever your friend and obedient servant,<HSEP>ORSON HYDE.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XL.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>REMOVAL TO HEALDSBURG--THE SQUATTER WAR.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I HAD built up quite a practice in the vally, and one day as I was on the floor addressing a jury in the United States district court, a friend stepped up to me and said, "Give them h--l, Norton, you are gone in at home."  When I had finished my argument, I asked my friend what he meant.  He replied, "Placerville is entirely wiped out by fire; nothing has been saved."  I returned home, and learned that a fire had broken out near the Carey House, at the foot of Main Street, at the west end of the city, and as the town was in a can&tilde;on running nearly east and west, and there being a strong west wind, and everything very dry, the flames would leap forty and fifty feet from building to building, firing the roofs, and in less than thirty minutes the town was all in flames.  It was Sunday, and my wife was in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>This fire occurred on the 5th of July, 1856.  In the course of a couple of months I had filled the burned space in my tract with a block of cheap buildings, and again continued my business till the summer of 1857, when I found that many of the mines were exhausted, and that Placerville had seen its best days.  And I had further become satisfied that every blow struck in a mining county was exhausting the native wealth of the county, while each blow struck in an agricultural county was increasing its wealth.  Hence I was resolved to seek a location in an agricultural region, and having favorable reports from Sonoma County, I made up my mind to visit that quarter with a view to finding a location.  Having relatives living in Green Valley, Sonoma County, I mounted my horse and set out for that point.  I had paid them a flying visit in 1855, but saw very little of the country.  On my second visit I spent a short time with my friends and in the coast country, when A. J. Steele, my brother-in-law, suggested that we visit the Geysers, which we accordingly did.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>Returning from this tour, I became favorably impressed with the then small hamlet of Healdsburg, and the broad acres of Dry Creek and Russian River bottomland lying on each side of the town site, while the little town itself was embowered in and overshadowed by a luxuriant shade of native oaks, with its varied and picturesque scenery, with water as pure as ever flowed from a crystal fountain, a healthful climate, without sand-flies, gnats, or mosquitoes to afflict humanity.  I resolved to settle in Healdsburg, and take my chances to make a living at my profession.  Among the first to renew an acquaintance at this place was "old man" Forsee, with whom I had been acquainted in El Dorado County.  The old man informed me that there was a fine opening in Sonoma County, but that I must not go in with the land-grabbers.  This was all new to me, and I was led to make inquiries as to what he meant by land-grabbers, when he proceeded to inform me that the country was covered with spurious grants, purporting to be Mexican grants, but which were all fraudulent; and that he (Forsee) had united himself with the settlers to resist the claimants under Mexican title, both legally and forcibly.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Judge Forsee also said that the Fitch or Sotoyome Rancho was a fraud, that the patent issued therefor was a fraud, that on two sides there were no boundaries, etc., etc.  I visited Santa Rosa for the purpose of learning the facts from the records, when, instead of finding the grant without boundaries, I found the entire estate defined by the most substantial lines, and that the United States patent had been on record for more than five years.  I returned to Healdsburg and opened an office, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The first case in which I was engaged was, The People of the State of California <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
189.sgm:<P>About this time a gentleman stepped into the office and introduced himself as Egbert Judson, of San Francisco, and said: "I am part owner and agent of the new Sotoyome Rancho.  The ranch is covered with redwood timber, and is only valuable for the timber, and I am being robbed by more than a hundred trespassers, who are cutting down and carrying away my timber in lumber, pickets, shakes, rails, and for other uses.  The entire valley has been and is being fenced from my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Judson returned to San Francisco, and I was in somewhat of a quandary how to commence my task, being fully alive to the magnitude of the undertaking; I was aware that about a month before my arrival in Healdsburg, a mob had taken and destroyed the field notes of Surveyor-General Tracy, gave him four hours to leave or hang, and that a like mob had chased Dr. L. C. Frisbie, he only escaping by being mounted on a fleet horse, and from the known character of some with whom I had to deal, I could scarcely hope to come out of the contest alive.  First I thought I had better commence in the district court and call to my aid a sheriff's <HI REND="italics">posse comitatus</HI>
189.sgm:, and again I feared that that course would induce the trespassers to think that I was personally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The notice which I received informed me that, if I dared to show myself in the redwoods, I would be hanged to the first tree.  Accordingly the next day I loaded myself down with iron and steel, got a horse, and started for the redwoods alone, having previously learned that their leader was a six-foot-and-a-half Irishman, a perfect giant, by the name of McCabe, who would sally forth from his mountain hiding-place, come to Healdsburg, get half drunk, whip out the town, and return to the redwoods, where he had his family.  On my approach to the redwoods I inquired for McCabe's shanty, and on reaching it I found him seated on his shaving-horse making shingles.  I dismounted, hitched my horse, advanced toward him and said, "Is your name McCabe?"  He replied in the affirmative.  I added, "Fighting McCabe?"  "They call me so sometimes."  I then said, "Well, sir, I am that detested Judson's agent that you propose to hang to the nearest limb, and have come to surrender myself for execution; my name is Norton."  He dallied a moment with his drawing-knife and then said, "Suppose we carry our threat into execution?"  I made answer that no doubt they had force enough in the woods to do it, but there would be some of them that would not be worth hanging by the time it was done.  He then queried, "Well, Norton, what do you propose to do with us?"  I replied, "Mack, I intend to put every devil of you out of the woods, unless you carry your threat into execution."  He was silent for a minute, then said:  "Well, you look and act as if you meant all you say."  I answered, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>339</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I then went out into the woods where the axes were cracking on every side, some chopping, some splitting rails, others sawing bolts; in fact, it was a busy place.  When I approached them I asked what they thought they were doing there, if they did not know they were trespassers?  They wanted to know who I was and what business I had there.  I answered, "I am the agent of Egbert Judson, the owner of this land and timber, and I forbid you to cut another stick, and intend to make you pay for the trespass already committed.  They commenced to gather around me, using the most insulting language; one of them, pointing to a large limb on a spreading oak, said, "We will give you just two minutes to get out of this, and, unless you are gone by that time, we will string you up to that limb."  I drew a revolver and cocked it, and told them to keep their distance, that I would kill the first one that attempted to advance.  I then asked them to give me their names, as I intended to prosecute them, each and every devil.  They gave me a laughable list, which I will not attempt to copy here.  After informing them that they were a set of cowardly scoundrels and not a gentleman in the crowd, I left them and returned to Healdsburg.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Johnson Ireland was the justice of the peace, and a firm, positive, hones man; and being satisfied that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>340</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:could trust him, I brought about a hundred suits, using all the <HI REND="italics">aliases</HI>
189.sgm:<P>Their spokesman called out, "Well, old fellow, there is a friend of mine up in the redwoods who wants to compromise with you."  I inquired his friend's name.  He replied:  "D--n you, if you want his name find it out the way you found ours."  I said, "It is very unkind in you not to give your friend's name, but as the business of the day is over with me, I will attend to it; I think, however, you are mistaken in your man.  It is not Norton you are hunting; it is Surveyor-General Tracy, or Dr. Frisbie that you are after; but as you will not give your friend's name, I will accompany you to see him.  I will go with one of you, two of you, or three of you, or I will go with your crowd; or I will be fairer still, I will agree to come down there and whale any one of you so blind that your wife will not know you when you get home again.  I know your kind better than you know yourselves."  Instead of rushing for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>341</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>My next adventure was in removing squatters from the east side of Russian River.  Judson had sent a man by the name of A. J. Soules with a flock of sheep on his own land on the Sotoyome Rancho, to pasture.  The squatters (numbering sixteen families) went and removed Soules and the sheep from the grant, admonishing him that it would not be safe to return.  Judgement in ejectment was obtained against those men in the federal court at San Francisco, but no one had dared to attempt to enforce it.  Having been successful in driving the trespassers from the redwoods, Judson came to the conclusion that perhaps I might gain possession of his other land.  After consultation, I directed him to send me a deputy from the United States marshal's office, with the writs of ejectment, which he did.  We went over to the field of our new labors about five o'clock in the evening, having previously sent them notice of my intention to remove them unless they would enter into a lease, and recognize our title.  We found them all at the house where we proposed to commence, all armed with knives or pistols.  Over an hour was consumed in trying to get the party to sign a lease, but to no purpose.  The evening was chilly, and I could not think of throwing a woman and small children out at that time of the evening.  Accordingly, I told them that I would be there at eight o'clock the following morning to put them out.  At the appointed hour we were on hand, and found them all there.  I again tendered the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>342</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>THE SQUATTER WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>THE Russian River and Dry Creek valleys at this time were nearly all in the hands of the squatters, which territory was covered with Mexican grants, as follows: Sotoyome or Fitch Grant, eight leagues; New Sotoyome, three leagues; the Tzabaco Grant, containing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>343</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Things were in this condition when Dr. L. C. Frisbie of Vallejo, employed me to look after his interests in the Sotoyome Rancho.  I took his business in hand, and succeeded in making some sales and getting along pretty smoothly for a few months; but it became necessary to bring several suits in ejectment, which I prosecuted to judgment.  One of them was against Riland Arbuckle, on a portion of the Sotoyome Rancho, and as he was a boastful, blowing fellow, I thought I would go for him first.  The sheriff dispossessed the party, and levied upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>344</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>We then made breast-works of the sacks of barley in the house, with loop-holes through the thin siding, and before it was quite dark I placed patrols up and down the road with intructions, if they should see the enemy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>345</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I continued to eject the squatters from Frisbie's tracts, with greater or less resistance, until I had reduced the whole to possession.  It now seemed to be the general opinion that I was the only one who could successfully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>346</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>A few months afterward I received a letter and power of attorney from Mr. Bailhache at Fort Yuma, giving me full authority to enter upon any and all his lands in Sonoma County, and expel squatters, etc.  I commenced operations under this power, but not until after I had convinced the sheriff that his was not much of an office anyhow, and he had agreed to turn it over to his under-sheriff in case he could furnish the necessary bonds, which I believe were about thirty thousand dollars; and I agreed to furnish ten thousand, in consideration of having the privilege of selecting my own deputy for Healdsburg.  This was carried out, and I chose J. D. Bins, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>347</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Until this murderous attack I had not been thoroughly aroused, but after the death and burial of young Ferguson I took a <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
189.sgm: of ten men, all thoroughly armed, and went with them in person.  Stationing a few outposts to prevent any further shooting from the brush, I commenced throwing out goods from the houses and burning the buildings to the ground.  In this way I went from house to house, until I burned down all the dwellings on the Bailhache premises occupied by squatters.  They followed us up <HI REND="italics">en masse</HI>
189.sgm:, and at length one of them said, "I would like to know who sets those buildings on fire; I would make them smart legally."  I replied, "What, you appeal to the law, who have so long trampled law and justice beneath your feet!  You shall be gratified!"  I said, "Jim Brown, fire that house."  The house was soon in flames.  I then said to the squatters, "Now take your legal remedy."  Brown (a brother of Mayor Brown, of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>348</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:Santa Rosa) was indicte, but a <HI REND="italics">nol. pros</HI>
189.sgm:<P>Although I had reduced the dwelling to smouldering ruins, the squatters continued to hang around, like the French soldiers around a burning Moscow, until the elements drove them away to the hills, where some of them put up temporary abodes on the adjacent Government land.  In our attempt to keep the raiders from the different places, we had only been successful in gaining possession of a small portion, and in order to perpetuate my possession, I commenced repairing the fences, and on two or three occasions in the night they fired them.  But I was ever on the alert, and discovered the fire in time to prevent much damage.</P>
189.sgm:<P>My next effort was to find some one who would dare take possession of some one of the places.  At last I found a man by the name of Peacock, a powerful, resolute fellow, who proposed to purchase a piece of the land which a man by the name of Clark had been claiming, and whose house had been burned down.  He contracted and entered into possession, and guarded a fine lot of hay, a volunteer crop growing on the place.  The hay had matured and he had cut and cocked it, but in the meantime, contrary to my counsel, he had made great friends with and confidents of the squatters who had been evicted, and among other things told them that he was going to see my brother the next day, to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>349</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>On Peacock's return it was impossible to convince him that the Prouses had any hand in this, or that they knew anything of it.  He continued his former relations with them for about a month after this time, having gone to board with them.  One day a dispute arose at the dinner table, and the two Prouse brothers set upon him, one of them armed with something that the evidence afterwards disclosed as being somewhat like a butcher's cleaver.  They cut and hacked Peacock up in a terrible manner, so that for a long time his life was despaired of.  For this offense I had Daniel Prouse sent to the penitentiary, and we continued to hold possession.  The land being desirable farming land, others, seeing that our title could be maintained, commenced purchasing; and thus Bailhache was restored to his possession, which put an end to the squatter diffculty on the Sotoyome Rancho.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>350</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>THE SQUATTER WAR--CONTINUED.</P>
189.sgm:<P>ABOUT time I was requested to take charge of the Tzabaco Rancho, by John B. Frisbie and W. H. Patterson, of San Francisco, sending the request by James Clark, then sheriff of Sonoma County, who held writs of ejectment against all the settlers on the Russian River side of the grant.  I had been acting for them for more than two years as their agent, selling and leasing the Dry Creek portion, where they met with but little opposition to their title.  But before stating my action on the Russian River Valley, I must state one incident that occurred on the Dry Creek portion.  I had been up Dry Creek serving some notices on parties who had not paid up, and was returning, mounted on a gentle little mare; and while jogging along, right opposite the widow Bell's old place, where there was an old watering trough and spring at a large redwood stump, surrounded by dense growth of redwood sprouts, a shot was fired.  I felt a concussion, and at the same instant my mare made a jump sideways, nearly throwing me from my saddle.  I recovered myself and dismounted.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I saw the brush wiggle and shake, and made for the point.  The party took to his heels, running through the thick brush and up a very steep hill, and I only got a sight of his back.  He wore a bluish-gray coat and a low black hat, and was rather a short man, and that was all I could tell of my would-be assassin.  I was unarmed and had no way of stopping him.  On examination, I discovered that the bullet had passed through both sides <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>351</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>And now to the squatters on the Russian River side of the grant, hostile almost to a man.  When the sheriff informed me that he was under my instructions, I told him to go home and if I needed him I would let him know.  I then wrote to Frisbie and Patterson, and told them that in case I entered upon the hazard of attempting to manage the squatters, they must give me an unconditional power to survey, segregate, and sell all the lands upon such terms and time as I should deem proper, being accountable to no one for my actions in its disposition.  They immediately sent me the power, which was communicated to the settlers in a very exaggerated manner, they being led to believe that I would eject them from their homes without an opportunity of purchasing at any price.  Whereupon their secret organization met, I having two trusty friends in that organization, who hastened to me and communicated to me so much of the proceedings as in their judgment was necessary to preserve my life.  I was told by them that it was determined in counsel that my death was essential in order to defeat the measures about to be carried into effect; and they had adopted a resolution that if I ever showed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>353</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>352</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>After due reflection, I resolved to "beard the lion in his den," and to fight the devil with fire, and when I was all ready, I hitched my pony to the buggy, and started for the Tzabaco Rancho.  After placing a quart bottle of old Bourbon under the buggy seat, and arming myself in case of trouble, I drove to the ranch, which is about six miles from Healdsburg, following the Geyserville road, and adjoining the Sotoyome Rancho on the west.  I drove up opposite the house of one Captain Vessor, then living close to the line, and saw the old captain in his yard hewing out a plow-beam.  I stopped my horse, and called out, "Captain Vessor, will you step this way?"  He dropped his ax, and came to the road; when about five or six feet from the buggy he raised his spectacles, and recognizing me, he instantly became as black as a thunder-cloud.  I jumped out of the buggy, and confronting him, said, "I am informed that you men have in solemn conclave determined to shoot and scalp me if I ever came on this grant, and as shooting is a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>354</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>353</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>At this place I met Dr. Ely, who I had good reason to believe was the brains and managing man of the squatters, he being a man of intellect, and a fair-minded, reasonable man upon all subjects excepting the one at issue.  I disnissed Vessor, "shot" Ely, and took him in the buggy, and continued my journey through the Tzabaco Rancho.  I informed the doctor that I came up to sell them their lands, and that I proposed to give every man a reasonable chance of paying for the farm I sold him.  I was aware that the lands had been held too high; that the owners were honest in their convictions of the value of the land, but were mistaken; and for that reason I had refused to take the agency until they gave me <HI REND="italics">carte blanche</HI>
189.sgm: to dispose of them according to my own judgment.  "But," he said, with apparent surprise, "you do not propose to sell me my place?"  "Why not?" I asked.  He replied, "I have always heard that you said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>355</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>354</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>The doctor frankly admitted that if that was my intention, then I had been greatly misrepresented to them.  I told him that, having unlimited power, I intended to be a benefactor and not an oppressor of the people.  The doctor took me at my word, rode through the settlement with me, and advised the settlers to purchase their homes, which seemed to them unusual advice.  I notified them that, on the following Thursday, I would be at Captain Vessor's for the purpose of going with them over every man's place, and fixing a price upon it per acre.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>355</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I was there at the time appointed, and met the entire settlement, and went over every place, fixing my price upon the land as I passed over, and to my surprise and satisfaction every one of them thought that I had put a fair price upon his neighbor's land, but had got his a <HI REND="italics">little too high</HI>
189.sgm:<P>But before dismissing the subject I must say, in justification of these men, that the most of them, in my judgment, were honest in their convictions that the claimants either had no title to the lands, or if they had a title it was fraudulent; and that many of them to-day are among our most respected and prominent citizens.  Our old feuds are now looked upon as a feverish and disturbing dream, or treated as a subject of mirth, and as for myself, the most of the men who once wanted to see my throat cut are among my warmest friends.  I will here append a set of resolutions, expressing their feelings toward me after our fight was over:--</P>
189.sgm:<P>"At a meeting of the citizens of Washington Township, and on the `Tzabaco Grant,' held this day, without distinction of party, the following preamble and resolutions were unanimously adopted:--</P>
189.sgm:<P>"Whereas, It having become known to us that statements are being publicly made to the effect that Capt L. A. Norton, of Healdsburg, is regarded with unfriendly feelings by the citizens and settlers of this township, and knowing such statements to be wholly untrue and unjust to Captain Norton, it is hereby</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>356</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
189.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
189.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
189.sgm:, That the Secretary forward a copy of the proceedings of this meeting to the <HI REND="italics">Sonoma Democrat</HI>
189.sgm:, and one to the <HI REND="italics">Russian River Flag</HI>
189.sgm:<P>"(Signed)<HSEP>DOWNING LAMB, <HI REND="italics">President</HI>
189.sgm:<P>"ELISHA ELY, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
189.sgm:<P>I can now look back with surprise at many of my foolhardy adventures while engaged as Egbert Judson's agent on the Sotoyome Rancho.  I had occasion to cross Russian River to look after his interests and went over in the morning, crossing the ferry then owned by a man by the name of Kibbe.  It was lowering weather when I went over, and as the day advanced it set in a drizzling rain.  I was absent the whole day, and as I came back at night to the river it was getting a little dusky.  The ferry-boat was kept on the opposite side of the river.  I commenced hallooing for the boat, but no one paid any attention to me.  I know they must have heard me, for I could hear them talking on the opposite side; could hear the chopping of wood at the house.  Well I hallooed and bawled at them until I got tired, and began to consider what I was to do.  There was no house nearer than the Fitches, and they were entire strangers to me.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The river was much swollen by recent rains and the flood-wood was coming down the stream pretty freely.  I was somewhat wet by the falling rain, and at last made up my mind to attempt to ford the stream.  I hunted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>358</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>357</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>CLIPPINGS.</P>
189.sgm:<P>[From the "History of Sonoma County."]</P>
189.sgm:<P>IN 1861 or '62 there was a regiment of volunteers organized in Kane County, Illinois.  They met in companies at Batavia to perfect the organization; they first proceeded to elect their major; second, their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>358</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:lieutenant-colonel, when, on motion, a recess of fifteen minutes was taken, when it was proposed that the health of Captain Norton be drank standing, which was informally carried out.  When the meeting resumed business it was moved and carried that Capt. L. A. Norton be elected colonel of the regiment by acclamation, which motion was put and carried unanimously.  Whereupon Capt. P. J. Burchell moved that a copy of the proceedings of this meeting be forwarded to Colonel Norton, by its secretary, with the request that he come home and take charge of his regiment, which his situation in this county forbade him doing, for at that time the captain (or more legitimately the colonel) had his hands full at home.  We are informed by reliable persons that the northern part of Sonoma County is much indebted to the firmness and energy of the colonel in keeping down an outbreak, as that portion of the county boasted a strong secession element, and when it was asserted that no recruits to join the Federal army would ever live to cross Russian River, he organized and secretly drilled the Union forces, and was at all times ready to meet the threatened outbreak.  And when it was said that no Union flag should ever float in Healdsburg, he went immediately to Petaluma, purchased one, placed it on the top of his carriage, carried it through the country to Healdsburg, and nailed it to his balcony, where it continued to wave.  When it was reported that a rebel flag was floating from the top of a high tree, between Santa Rosa and Sonoma, Norton made it his business to go down there, in open day, climb the tree and remove the flag.  And we are informed that it is now in the possession of Mrs. Molloy, of San Francisco, the colonel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>360</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>359</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>[From the San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Alta California</HI>
189.sgm:<P>"HEALDSBURG, November 12, 1861.</P>
189.sgm:<P>EDITORS ALTA: On yesterday the citizens of our town were called to the banks of Russian River to witness the launching of a small boat, built by Mr. Johnson, for the trial of Capt. L. A. Norton's newly invented wheel.</P>
189.sgm:<P>"The boat is nineteen feet long with four feet beam; the wheels are four feet in diameter, with eight buckets each.  Each bucket is composed of five paddles, which are perpendicular to the shaft, worked by simple machinery, so that each bucket is a full, solid bucket, by the folding together of the paddles when it strikes the water; and on leaving the water it is again thrown open, lifting no dead water, nor offering any resistance to the air until it is ready to perform labor again.</P>
189.sgm:<P>"When a large crowd had convened at the place, the craft was named by Mr. Norton after W. W. Stow of San Francisco, who was present, and made a few brief remarks.  The <HI REND="italics">W. W. Stow</HI>
189.sgm: was then launched upon the water, and propelled by two men, at a crank on the shaft.  She moved off gracefully, amid the cheers of the crowd, and the thrilling music of the Russian River Brass Band, which attended to enliven the occasion.  After she had run up and down the river for several hours, exhibiting great speed and beauty and regularity of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>361</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>360</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:motion, the crowd dispersed, satisfied that the new wheel must undoubtedly prove a success, and that it is the very thing for which the world has been experimenting for the last thirty years.<HSEP>W.A.M."</P>
189.sgm:<P>Subsequently the annexed notice appeared in the "City Items" department of the same journal:--</P>
189.sgm:<P>"NOVEL EXHIBITION--ANOTHER CALIFORNIA INVENTION.--Quite a number of persons on Steuart Street wharf, yesterday afternoon, were surprised at seeing a Whitehall boat shoot from under the pier propelled by muscle brought to bear on a pair of novel paddle-wheels.  It appears that a Mr. Norton, of Sonoma County, has for some years past been endeavoring to improve upon the present paddle-wheels.  He believes that his invention is calculated to effect the needed improvements in these respects, viz., that whilst the speed of the ordinary paddle-wheel is limited, this is limitless, and that to any extent the power can be applied, in like proportion will additional speed be obtained.  Furthermore, he contends that his wheel avoids not only the lift, but drag of back water.  The wheel is composed of a series of paddles forming a bucket, the paddles being hung upon pivots, and opened and closed by a shacklebar, which has a friction roller on each end, fastened to the bucket by knees.</P>
189.sgm:<P>"The wheel, whilst undergoing the rotary motion, brings the friction roller in contact with cams, which open and close the bucket.  The moment the latter has performed its labor, the paddles make the open revolution until they again touch the water.  The inventor contends that in navigating the ocean in a heavy sea, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>362</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>361</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>"The experiment tried yesterday seemed successful so far as the working of the wheels and speed are concerned.  The two men at the crank propelled the craft quite as fast as two oarsmen another boat, with which a trial of speed was had.</P>
189.sgm:<P>"The inventor has filed his caveat, and formally applied for a patent.  A model is now being constructed in this city."</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>A VISIT TO THE EAST.</P>
189.sgm:<P>SINCE the events recorded in the foregoing chapters, I made, in 1874, a lengthy tour to the East, visiting the scenes of my early life and adventures in Canada, and also many of the States of the Union.  I kept a diary of my travels, and the prominent occurrences of the journey, from which I take the facts herein set forth.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I started out of San Francisco on "All Fools' Day" on an eastern-bound train.  Among the passengers was a Mrs. G. and her little son, aged about eight years.  Her husband, who was an official of Alameda County, sought an introduction, and placed his wife and son under my care.  We were soon settled in one of the commodious palace cars, and all within the car soon became acquainted and, in fact, constituted a little social community.  In reading, talking, playing cards, and looking from the windows at the various external objects <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>363</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>362</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>When we arrived at the county seat of Humboldt County, and when the cars stopped at the depot, the conductor walked through the cars and announced that we had twenty minutes to exercise our limbs.  I asked Mrs. G. if she would like to walk out, and she replied in the affirmative.  I looked at my watch, and we walked to the court house, less than a five minutes' walk, exchanged a few words with the clerk, and started back, when the whistle blew, the bell rang, and away went the cars.  The woman was perfectly frantic, and screamed, "My child! my child!"  I consoled her as well as possible, telling her that I would telegraph to the next station and have the boy and baggage left.  In the meantime the cars had gone out of sight and hearing.  I had restored the lady to quiet, and was meditating a suit against the company for damage, when to my surprise the cars hove in sight, and some one on the back step was waving a handkerchief most furiously.  We rushed on and were soon on board again.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Then came the secret: The first day out, a small specimen of California's best production passed from my possession to that of the negro steward, with the understanding that he was to consult my best interests while it should be my good fortune to travel in his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>364</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>363</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:society; and when it was announced that I was left, he made a furious dash at the bell-rope, pulling it in two the first effort.  He then rushed through the cars, reached the engine, and yelled to the engineer, " <HI REND="italics">You mus' go back! two ladies leff, and two suckin' babies on board</HI>
189.sgm:<P>I will not attempt to describe a route that has already been described a hundred times, but will content myself with a truthful detail of what came under my observation as a traveler, that has not been chronicled by more able pens.  The journey was without accident or further mishap until we reached Aurora, Kane County, Illinois, where I left the train to visit my old home at St. Charles, on Fox River.  I returned to St. Charles after an absence of twenty-two years, almost to a day.  I entered the town an entire stranger, knowing no face that I met and none knowing me.  I had an intimate friend, one Colonel Burchell, who, at the time of my leaving St. Charles, was a merchant, and had rendered me many favors.  I left him an active business man in manhood's prime.  I was informed that he now kept the St. Charles Hotel.  Accordingly I put up at that house, and found my friend of other days a decrepit old man, whom I could not recognize as being my old friend of twenty-two years before.  I engaged him in conversation; ate supper with him and a half dozen former friends, but none knew me.  Presently the conversation turned on California, and "Captain Norton" was the first one inquired for.  I told Burchell that I knew him very well; that he lived in my town, and, after answering many inquiries regarding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>365</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I next went to the office where I had read law and met my old preceptor, Judge Barry.  He also had grown very old.  He asked me to be seated.  I told him that I had a little matter of business that I wished to call his personal attention to, and handed him my card.  The old man looked at the card, and then at me.  In a moment he dropped the card, sprang forward, seized me by both hands, and exclaimed, "Great God, Norton, is this you!"  He then commenced rubbing my head and running around me like a child.  The news soon spread that I had returned, and then dozens of acquaintances of former years came rushing in, calling me by name, whose faces were as strange to me as though I had never seen them before.  There was but one among all of them that I could have recognized; that was my old friend, W. G. Conkling, who served as lieutenant with me through the Mexican War (now Major Conkling).  We were as brothers through that long and trying campaign, and our relations were so intimate that time and change could not deface that recollection.  I spent three days, among the happiest of my life, with old friends at St. Charles, making at least twenty promises to dine, visit, or lodge with my old friends.  I absolutely had to run away to prosecute my journey.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>Leaving St. Charles, Illinois, I descended Fox River, one of the most lovely streams in the world, to its confluence with the Illinois, passing the cities of Aurora and Oswego and many other lovely towns on its banks.  Then, going through Ottawa and crossing the Illinois and Vermilion Rivers, I visited the great coal-fields of the West at Streater, La Salle County, Illinois.  This place is but about four years old, and contains from six thousand to seven thousand inhabitants.  It very much reminds the California traveler of a mining town in 1852.  It is principally a wooden town, sprung up as by magic, and bright new shanties meet the eye in all directions.  They seem to have a well organized city government and all is one wild rush and bustle.  There are now five railroads centering in the town, with coal-cars leaving in all directions, while the various hoisting works, propelled by steam, are tugging and puffing on all sides.  There are three distinct strata of coal, lying from eighty to four hundred feet below the surface.</P>
189.sgm:<P>From this region I retraced my steps to Aurora, and went thence to Chicago.  I will give but little space to a description of this great mart of the West, as, especially since its recent disaster, it has so often been described that all who read know what Chicago was before and at the time of the great fire.  All that it is necessary to say here is that it has arisen from its ashes more beautiful than before, and all the evidences that are left of its calamity are here and there a scar that looks as though there had been a local fire.  Chicago is the shining light of the West.  It owes its present existence to the East, to whom it is mortgaged.  There are two places that the traveler should be sure to visit--the tunnel under the Chicago River and the Lake Water Works.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>I cannot leave the great West without speaking generally of the improvements of the great Mississippi Basin.  I visited Chicago in the fall of 1837 for the first time, when but a boy.  It was but a small village then.  The frame of the old United States House had just been raised at the west end of Randolph Bridge.  Colonel Bobion lived near the old fort on the lake shore, in his log-cabin lined inside with birch bark, and Lake Street was a first-class mud-hole.  Now (1874) the city boasts about a quarter million inhabitants.  At the time to which I refer, the whole country lying between the great lakes and the base of the Rocky Mountains was comparatively an unbroken wild, with only here and there the rudely-built shelter of the early pioneer or hunter, and the only guides from the settlements to their new homes were the trails left by General Scott's troops and the brands of their camp-fires while marching to chastise the hostile tribes of the West.  But what a change!  The human mind can hardly comprehend it.  In the short space of thirty-seven years this mighty empire of the West has sprung into existence.  And what a change even from twenty years ago, where the little "balloon frame" or log-cabin, with a hovel for stock, covered with straw or prairie grass, where the fierce winds of our Western winters would penetrate every pore as they howled over the vast prairies, without a tree or bush to check them!  Now, where stood the lowly cabin, you may see a noble building two or three stories in height with a beautiful observatory covering its top; and where stood the straw-thatched hovel, you may see clustered splendid granaries and stock barns, all well sheltered and protected with a fine, thrifty grove of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I continued my journey eastward by the Michigan Central road, April 11.  It was exceedingly cold in Chicago when I left.  It seemed as though the north wind from Lake Michigan would cut a Californian in two, and, in fact, I had not been out of sight of snow from the time I reached the summit of the Sierra.  I reached Detroit about two o'clock Sunday morning, April 12.  Detroit is a splendid city.  It is beautifully located on the St. Clair River, and is among the oldest towns of America, settled by the French.  This is the town that was surrendered to the British by General Hull, in the war of 1812, at the time of "Hull's Surrender."  There is a very fine depot there, and the city contains many beautiful public buildings, handsomely flagged sidewalks, and many ornamental trees.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>369</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>On the morning of the 13th I crossed the St. Clair River into Upper Canada, taking the Grand Trunk road, and arrived in London about four o'clock in the afternoon.  Again in London!  After an absence of thirty-seven years I was again visiting the spot where I had been a prisoner for nine months, indicted for high treason, and banished from her Britannic majesty's dominions during my natural life.  I left, a boy in my seventeenth year; I returned, a gray-headed man!  At my banishment I had left many warm friends in London.  "Where are they now?"  was the first question that came to my mind on my return, for among those friends were some who had watched over the sick couch of the young rebel and to whose kind care perhaps I owed my life.  I asked an old settler of London, "Where is O'Brien, the merchant?"  He replied, "He is dead!"  "And Mrs. O'Brien?"  "Also dead!"  "Where is Sam Parks, the former keeper of the London prison?"  "Dead!"  "And his wife?"  "She is also dead!"  None who had lifted a hand or voice in my defense were left.  It was one universal reply, "Dead, all dead!"</P>
189.sgm:<P>But there was one thing to console me: times had so changed in the Dominion that the old Tory party of 1836-37 was at a discount, and the reform party was in power, the British Government having granted a general amnesty, and conceded every reform asked by that party.  I next visited the old prison where I had lain so long, but there the hand of time had made no change.  I found everything in the rooms where I had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>VISIT TO THE EAST--OLD-TIME HAUNTS.</P>
189.sgm:<P>BEFORE my final departure from London (Canada), I went up to Westminster, where I had left four uncles and about thirty cousins.  In fact, Westminster Street was settled by Nortons and their descendants; but among all the kin that I had left, only one remained to tell the fate and whereabouts of the rest.  This was Frank D. Norton.  He was wealthy and a prince among good fellows, and spared no pains to make me enjoy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>This general clearing up of the country has given it an entirely new face.  Those who have seen the emigrant who crossed the plains from '49 to '60, before going to the barber shop and after his return from it, may, from that metamorphosis, form some faint idea of the change in the face of a timber country by being shorn of its forests.  The climate of Upper Canada has also greatly changed since cutting off the timber.  There used to be but little wind before the country was cleared up, and now it is swept by heavy and frequent winds from the northern lakes.  The land in Canada West, like that of the Western States, is much worn, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Taking leave of my "coz.," I took a side train, connecting with the Grand Trunk at St. Mary's, and after a few hours' ride brought up at Toronto.  We made no stay at this place, farther than the usual halt for meals, but even this enabled me to discover that Toronto had grown much since I last saw it.  Indeed, it is now a very pretty city, the site sloping to the south with a gentle descent to the lake shore.  From Toronto our trip to Prescott was performed in the night.  Passing Kingston and other noted points, we arrived at Prescott at the break of day, at which place we changed cars for Ottawa, the seat of the Dominion Government.  Ottawa is situated on the Grand Ottawa River, some ninety miles above the confluence of that river with the St. Lawrence.  The city is divided into the upper and lower towns by the Rideau Canal, which gives an internal communication between Kingston and Lake Ontario and the Ottawa River.  This town has been selected by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>373</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The Russell House is a fine hotel, situated in the center of the town in juxtaposition with the Sappers' Bridge, the Rideau Canal, Parliament House, etc.  A few minutes take the traveler to the suspension bridge, from which a fine view of the city can be obtained, as well as of the celebrated Chaudier Falls, which are almost a second Niagara.  The Government timber slide, Table Rock, suspension bridge, etc., are well worthy of note by the tourist.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Returning by way of Prescott, I crossed the St. Lawrence River to Ogdensburg, New York.  This is a city of considerable trade.  It is an old town founded by Colonel Ogden, an Englishman of great wealth.  There is an amusing anecdote connected with the early settlement of the place, calculated in some degree to illustrate the different ideas of the English and Americans as to the relations of master and servant.  After Ogden had founded his town and was yet largely engaged in building, business called him back to England and he left an Englishman in charge of his works, who held the common English ideas of the servile condition of the common laborer.  The hands were principally brought from England, but through sickness or some other cause, it became necessary to hire a few native Americans.  Among them was a little American to mix mortar.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>374</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In time Ogden returned and was riding out with the old boss in his coach, when they met a Yankee teamster who gave one-half of the road.  "How different," said Colonel Ogden, "in England a teamster would give the whole road and take off his hat to a gentleman."  "Ah," replied the boss, "but in this country he will pull off his coat instead of his hat."  The mortarman had taught him something.</P>
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189.sgm:and arrived at Malone the same evening, passing Potsdam and other small places on the way.  I had now arrived at the base of my communications, and heard from home for the first time since leaving London.  On leaving home I had directed all my correspondence to be sent to Wm. P. Cantwell, Esq., of Malone, New York.  He and I were little children together at Norton Creek, Lower Canada.  Thomas Cantwell, his father, was among the earliest settlers at "The Creek."  He was our merchant and, in fact, the main man of the place.  He was noted for his integrity, and commanded the respect of all who knew him, and prospered as such men should.  Where even the advantages of a common school education were denied to many, Mr. Cantwell's children were sent abroad to school and received liberal education.  My friend, Wm. P., chose the profession of law and is now a successful lawyer, standing at the head of his profession in Malone, and, like his father, noted for his integrity as well as his ability.  He is blessed with an amiable wife and family, with family, with all the home comforts and endearing associations that make home happy.  Though my visit with them was a very short one, it was of that pleasing character that will ever keep its remembrance fresh in my mind.  Mr. Cantwell's family could tell me more about my old home than all others combined, but I hastened forward that I might see for myself.  I was then about forty miles from my old home at Norton Creek, in Lower Canada.  I took the cars for the Summit, and from that place I hired a buggy to take me across the line into Canada to the little town of Franklin, where I remained a couple of days to visit friends and get <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>376</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>At Franklin I chartered a buggy to take me to Norton Creek.  And now I was to visit a place, after an absence of forty years, the most cherished to me of all spots on earth.  It was there I had spent my childhood's hours, and there centered all that was pleasant to reflect upon; it was my thoughts by day and dreams by night.  Every play-ground was vivid in my memory and the enthusiasm which I felt upon the subject I cannot better express than in the words of Norton the poet:-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Canada's wilds my early home,<LB>I think of thee where'er I roam!<LB>The lonely crag to me endeared,<LB>Its mossy brow my childhood cheered;<LB>The rising hill, the creek, the dell,<LB>The ancient tree, the pond, the well--<LB>All these endeared that land to me,<LB>Home of my youth and infancy!</HI>
189.sgm:<P>But what a disappointment was in wait for me!  When I came into the range of my childhood's acquaintance the first place I recognized was the Proper farm, where I requested my driver to wait until I made a reconnoissance of the premises.  My rap at the door was answered by a French woman who couldn't speak a word of English, but she called her son, who spoke English.  I asked him who lived there.  He informed me that it was the widow St. John.  I then asked him where the folks had gone who lived there before them.  He didn't know; he was born on the place, raised there to manhood, and never heard of any other person having owned it but his father.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>I then determined to go to Mr. Seivers', two miles further on, and make that my head-quarters while I remained in the vicinity, remembering that forty years ago they kept a very respectable hotel and but one mile distant from my father's farm--my early home.  We trudged along through a slushy mixture of snow and mud until we reached the Seivers place, but here I was again disappointed.  The old sign was gone and the house much smaller than when I left that country.  I entered the house and inquired for Mr. Seivers.  Quite an old lady answered me that her son would be in in a minute.  I asked, "Is this Mrs. Seivers?"  She answered in the affirmative.  I then asked her if they kept a hotel, and she replied that they did not.  I told her that I was a stranger wishing to spend a few days in that neighborhood, and would like to stay with them.  She said they were not prepared to keep travelers.  I insisted upon staying, and told her that any accommodations would answer me.  In the meantime her son came in, and I saw that I was likely to fail in my efforts, when I made the fact known that I was a son of Lewis Norton.  I needed no further passport, and a nice, clean room was assigned me.  On inquiry, I found that the former house had been burned down and replaced by the present smaller one; that old man Seivers and wife had both been dead for many years, and that the old lady before me was the wife of John Seivers, who was a young married man when I left Lower Canada; that he also was dead, after having raised a large family of children, who were all married off and now had families of half-grown Canadians in their turn.  Our school-house was near by and on the Seivers farm.  I noticed that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>378</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>After becoming domiciled in my temporary home, I set out on foot to visit the old homestead.  I well knew every foot of the ground, and a fifteen minutes' walk brought me to the corner of our old field; but to my amazement I found the field a forest!  It was covered with a thick growth of cedars,six and eight inches in diameter and from forty to fifty feet in height.  I took the second look at the old rock monument at the corner, and satisfied myself that I was not mistaken as to locality.  The next search was for my father's cooper shop, which used to stand close by.  All traces of it were gone, except a few foundation stones that marked the spot where it had stood.  I next pushed my way through the cedar forest for the old house; but alas! the house had not only disappeared, but all evidences that a human habitation had ever been there.  A stone quarry had been opened precisely where the house had stood.  When a child I had set out an orchard of apples, which, when we left, had grown to be quite respectable little trees.  I had since always thought I would like to revisit the old orchard to see how it flourished, and my longings were now to be gratified.  But when I reached the lot, not an apple tree was there, nor the slightest evidence that there ever had been one planted on the ground.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>While I was meditating upon the general change, mortified, sick, and dispirited to see all of my high hopes and bright dreams of a pleasant visit to my old home dashed to the earth, a stern-visaged, hard-faced old woman made her appearance upon the scene, looking for her sheep.  She seemed to look upon me with surprise and distrust.  I stepped up to her and said, "My good woman, can you tell me who owns these premises?"</P>
189.sgm:<P>"`Tis meself, shure, but me husband is over the hill at the house beyont.  I'll show you."  I followed the crone and found that the portion of the farm which was a forest when I left was now cleared up, cultivated and contained the residence of the family.  At dark I returned to my friend Seivers', with years of romance and bright dreams dashed to the earth by an experience of a couple of hours.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I wandered in the neighborhood of Norton Creek a week before it was generally known who I was, and I learned that all kinds of surmises and supicions had been entertained as to who and what I was.  I found once in a while an old citizen who remembered our family, but everything on the face of nature was so radically changed that I could not have recognized the place had I been set down there without explanations.  The stream had been dammed below, entirely changing its features; the big marsh--my old fishing ground <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>380</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Coming to the conclusion that I had had enough of my old Canada home, I began to think about emigrating again.  I was told that I could take the stage and go to St. Rama, whence I could go by rail to Montreal.  The stage passed Mr. Seivers' at about five o'clock in the morning.  I was accordingly up, dressed and ready for the trip.  The "stage" came!  I found that it consisted of a one-horse buggy, with a lantern lashed on the dash-board and a little French pony in the fills.  As it happened, it wasn't loaded; that is to say, the only seat for a passenger was vacant, but the driver insisted that he couldn't take me, owing to the condition of the roads.  I paid but little attention to his remonstrances, piled in my valise and lunch-basket and directed him to drive on.  In course of time I reached St. Rama without accident, took the cars and safely arrived at Montreal to await the final breaking up of winter.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>VISIT TO THE EAST--MONTREAL.</P>
189.sgm:<P>WELL, here I am in Montreal, one of the prettiest cities in North America; and how little we Americans know of it!  It is the largest and most populous city, in fact the commercial metropolis, of British North America.  Situated upon an island at the base of Mt. Royal, it occupies a very commanding position.  The island is from twenty-five to thirty miles long, by ten or twelve broad.  Montreal possesses all the advantages both of an inland and a commercial city.  It is accessible to steamships and other vessels of three thousand tons burden, and, commanding the trade of the canals and lakes, its position with reference to Quebec, Ontario, the Great West, New York, Boston, Portland, Albany, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, Prince Edward Island, and many minor points, makes it, by water and railroad communication, a great center and commercial emporium.  They have gone largely into manufacturing in Montreal.  The city was founded in 1642 and for many years bore the name of Ville Marie, having been originally settled by the French, and for a long time it was the head-quarters of the French forces in Canada, but was surrendered to the English in 1763.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I have not started out to write up the history of Montreal, but cannot in justice dismiss the subject until I have partially described two of the most magnificent works of art upon the American continent, viz., Notre Dame, and Victoria Bridge.  Notre Dame, the parish <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The Victoria Bridge spans the St. Lawrence at Montreal.  The cost of this bridge was $6,250,000.  It contains 25,000 tons of stone and 7,500 tons of iron.  The iron superstructure is supported on twenty-four piers and two abutments.  The center span is 330 feet, and there are twelve spans each side of the center, 242 feet each; extreme length, including the abutments, 7,000 feet; height of the bridge above low water, sixty feet in the center, descending towards each end at the rate of one inch in 130 feet.  The contents of the masonry are 3,000,000 cubic feet; weight of iron in the tubes, 8,000 tons.  The tubes through which the railroad trains pass, are at the middle span twenty-two feet high and sixteen feet wide, and at the extreme ends nineteen feet high and sixteen feet wide.  The total length from the river banks is 10,284 feet, or a little less than two miles.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I shall not attempt to describe the public buildings, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Leaving Montreal by cars, we crossed Victoria Bridge and took the railroad for St. John's, that being the point where I expected to connect with the Vermont Central road, on which my fare was paid to Boston, Massachusetts.  I presented my ticket and the conductor refused to recognize it, owing to the fact that it was but a branch road of the Vermont Central and leased to outside parties.  I refused to pay and the conductor said he would have to put me off.  I told him that was all right, but that he must forcibly expel me from the cars; that I shouldn't resist, but wished to reserve my legal rights.  He treated me very gentlemanly, but said that under the rules he would have to put me off at the next station.  In the meantime he conversed with the Hon. M. Mower, of the Canadian Parliament, in regard to the matter.  Mr. Mower admitted that the conductor's instructions would require him to put me off, but he thought the company would finally be compelled to transport me over their road, and perhaps be mulcted in damages for their refusal to take me through, and for expelling me from the cars.  Mr. Mower informed me that he was personally acquainted with the conductor and knew him to be an honorable man, etc.  He also said that the managing agent of the road was at the next regular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>VISIT TO THE EAST--BOSTON--THE HUDSON.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I HAD now crossed the Vermont line.  We passed along the foot of Lake Champlain, up Onion and White Rivers, crossed the Green Mountains to the east of the Camel's Back, crossed New Hampshire, passing through Concord, Lowell, and many other places of note, and reached Boston about eleven o'clock at night.  As to the country embraced in the trip from Montreal to Boston, it appeared that the inhabitants had first tried agriculture, then grazing and stock-raising, and finally, in many places, they were abandoning the soil to a second growth of timber, and gathering themselves up into manufacturing villages and cities, resorting to the mechanical arts and manufacturing almost exclusively for a living.  They seemed to have come to the conclusion that they could not compete with the more favored portions of the United States in agricultural pursuits.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>385</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>My arrival at so late an hour in the night was the most unfortunate of all the incidents attending my advent in Boston.  The next morning I sallied forth to reconnoiter the city.  Coming in so late I had not observed any landmarks, but with a bold spirit of adventure I pushed along through the labyrinth of buildings, without a blazed tree, chart, or compass, with the intention of finding the docks, that I might get a view of Massachusetts Bay and Boston Harbor, where there was a great tea party about a century since.  A smart walk of half an hour brought me--not to the docks, but to the place from where I started.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Having procured fresh directions, I again started out on my search.  This time, after an hour's ramble, I found myself at West End, instead of at the docks.  Here I made more inquiries, and among them I asked whether there was any street or road that led out of Boston except the railroad by which I entered the city.  I was told to go to Bowdoin Square, where I could gain the information.  I took the direction pointed out for Bowdoin Square and followed the devious streets for another half hour, but finding nothing that looked to me like a square, and meeting a street-car, I jumped aboard and asked the conductor where that car was going.  He informed me that it was going to Bowdoin Square.  This I thought was a point gained; but after several twists and turns I came to the conclusion that I was again duped, and that the car was returning by another route to the point where I had got on.  I was about leaving it for the purpose of throwing myself under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>386</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In a short time we arrived at what I should call five points, where all alighted from the car.  I asked my friend if this was what they called Bowdoin Square, and he said it was.  I was somewhat surprised, as I had brought up at the same place three or four times in the course of my ramble, but never would have taken it to be a <HI REND="italics">square</HI>
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189.sgm:<P>I don't propose to describe the monument, as every school-child not only knows all about Bunker Hill Monument (which is not on Bunker Hill at all, by the way), but everything else in and about Boston, and much that never was there, for the innumerable presses of Boston, continually harping upon its beauties, have made it rather an ideal than a real city.  They have told the world not what it was in fact, but what their imaginations picture it.  In claiming that the picture of Boston is generally overdrawn, do not understand me to say that Boston is not a great city, and that there are not many things in it worthy of admiration.  But to return to Bunker Hill Monument.  It costs the visitor twenty cents for admittance, and ten cents for a little "guide" of two leaves about one and one-half by two inches, not costing one-fourth of a cent each, making a charge of thirty cents to enable an Englishman to see the place where his ancestors were slain, or the American to see the place where the immortal Warren and his compatriots fell.  This fee must produce a revenue of more than two hundred dollars per day.  By what authority is this toll demanded?  and to what fund do the proceeds belong?  If I mistake not, the ground was a gift to the public, for the purpose to which it has been appropriated, by the Masonic fraternity, and the building fund, or the larger portion thereof, was raised by public subscription, the residue having been obtained through the influence of the ladies by subscription and other ways.  If I am mistaken in the above statement, I beg pardon; if not, I reiterate the question, Who has a right to demand a fee from the visitor, further than enough to provide a fund for keeping the monument and grounds in proper repair?</P>
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189.sgm:<P>From what I had read of Boston I had been led to believe that I should find a city of granite, marble, and brick, but, on the contrary, I found more common wooden structures than in any city of its population through which I passed on my journey.  Boston Common is a very pretty place, though much smaller than I had expected to find it.  It was pretty in its natural state and has been much beautified by art.  Connected as it is with the National Gardens, it makes a very fine pleasure-ground; but were I the manager of the premises, I should either remove the tombs which it contains or make a cemetery of the whole.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But there is one thing for which I give the Bostonians credit:  instead of paying men to cut down, dig up, and destroy the old forest trees on the public grounds (as our wise men of Healdsburg did), they have carefully protected, cultivated, hooped, and canvased the old monarchs of the forest, preserving them as landmarks of early days.  Faneuil Hall still stands, well preserved.  As unpretending as its appearance may seem, it was the nest where was hatched the bird that wrested a people's rights from the grip of the British Lion.  The State House stands fronting the Common, and is a fine structure.  The legislature was in session, and the Rotunda was closed to visitors, but by the kindness of the sergeant-at-arms I was permitted to visit it.  He also furnished me a guide.  From the top of this building I had a fine view of the city and its surroundings, and my guide pointed out many objects of interest.</P>
189.sgm:<P>From Boston I went west by the way of Springfield to Albany, New York.  Along that route I found, as a general thing, that agriculture, as in New Hampshire <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>389</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Albany, the capital of New York State, is a flourishing city at the head of navigation on the Hudson River.  It is the oldest city in the United States.  The first white man who ever visited the spot where Albany now stands was Hendricke Chrystance, who was sent up the river to explore by Henry Hudson, in 1610.  Between the Indians and the Dutch the place boasted a multitude of names, but in the year 1664, it was named Albany, in honor of James, Duke of York and Albany, who afterwards ascended the English throne as James II.  The town was incorporated as a city in 1686, under Governor Dougan's administration.  A portion of the town is situated upon the flat running to the water's edge and a portion on the bank, which rises about one hundred and fifty feet above the water.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The present capitol is situated at the head of State Street, on a fine elevation overlooking the whole of the lower portion of the city.  This building was erected about 1835, and is now (1874) being eclipsed by a more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>390</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>A Hogg, a Scott, a Burns, and others, in their brilliant productions with pen and pencil, have made classic each tiny stream, every heath-clad hill and shady glen of Scotland, while farther south the early poets have sung the praises of the Po, the Rhine, Tiber, and Danube, until they have become as familiar to the present generation as household words; but on visiting those scenes the traveler frequently finds that the genius of the poet has overdone his subject.  But here the case is completely reversed; nature has seemed to mock the genius of man; for no human pencil can paint, nor the pen of mortal describe, the beauties of the Hudson.  And where an Irving, a Willis, a Clark, and a Drake have failed, with their descriptive powers, to paint this lovely panorama of nature, I should not attempt it.  Lovers of the beautiful seek the banks of the Hudson that their senses may drink in their beauties, but the tongue can never express them.  We passed the magnificent residences of Church, the great artist, Longfellow, Washington Irving, and many others whose fame is world-wide.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The Banks of the Hudson are completely lined with cities, villages, and lovely country seats.  Prominent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVIII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>VISIT TO THE EAST--NEW YORK.</P>
189.sgm:<P>ON the second day after leaving Albany we landed on Manhattan Island, which contains the great storehouse of the world, and I was soon lost in the swaying and jostling masses on Broadway.  I put up at the St. Nicholas, and was not long in finding out that in New York style costs as much as living.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The next morning after breakfast I thought I would take a "promenade down Broadway" and call upon my banker.  I had not proceeded on my walk more than two blocks when I was accosted by a gentleman who evinced great pleasure in meeting me.  He rushed up furiously, seized me by the hand and exclaimed, "How are you, Mr. Jones," or some other name which I do not now remember.  I remarked to him that he had probably mistaken his man; that that was not my name, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I pursued my way, chuckling to myself on his discomfiture, as I had from my infancy heard of New York sharps, and longed for the day when they would have an opportunity to try their skill on me, believing that there was one man at least that was invulnerable to their arts.  I walked along in a very happy frame of mind, exulting over my victory, when a young man of prepossessing appearance and manner rushed from the throng of pedestrians and exclaimed, "Captain Norton, how do you do! when did you leave San Francisco?"  I took his extended hand, but told him that he had the advantage of me; that I failed to remember him.  "Why," said he, "don't you know David, of the Western Union Telegraph Company, of San Francisco?"  I replied that I didn't remember him; that there were about a dozen of the boys and I should fail to recognize any one of them.  He said he knew me very well, having met me often in San Francisco.  I told him that I was pleased to meet him, or, in fact, any one from California.  He said that he had just got in the night before; was putting up at the Astor House, and asked me where I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>We were admitted by a negro usher into the presence of the lottery man, who was seated behind a long table.  He arose and David presented his ticket.  The man remarked, "I suppose you think you have drawn a fortune."  The young man replied that he didn't know how much he had drawn.  The lottery man said, "You have drawn $401," and handed the young man eight fifty-dollar greenbacks and a ticket, saying, as he did so, "This dollar ticket is all the percentage that the company has in this matter, and that ticket will be drawn at the large hall on Tuesday next."  "I shall not be here on Tuesday," said David, "I am going right back to California."  I said, "What do you care about the dollar ticket?"  and he answered that he would like to know whether it drew anything or not.  The lottery man suggested, "Perhaps your friend will be here."  David turned to me and asked if I would be in the city on Tuesday.  I replied that I should, and would see if his ticket drew anything, and report on my return to San Francisco.</P>
189.sgm:<P>But the lottery man remarked that he had the scheme <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:of the drawing and that if David preferred, he could have a private drawing then and there; that they did so sometimes where men were going to leave the city.  After an exhibition of his scheme, it was agreed that David should avail himself of the private drawing.  Among other things it was explained that where the party throwing the dice threw any number other than a prize number, it was called a "star," and the party neither won nor lost, but would be compelled to represent the ticket by putting up a dollar first, and then doubling the sum as often as he threw "stars," and that the money so put up was not forfeited, but at the end of seven throws the party putting up took all of his money so put up, together with his prize in case the ticket won.  David threw a "star" and "antied" his dollar; the second throw was the same and he put up two dollars; the third throw was another "star," and he put up four dollars.  Each time that David put up the engineer of the game gave him a ticket.  After the third throw David remarked that he seemed to be out of luck and asked me to throw for him.  I did so and won eight dollars.  He seemed pleased and requested me to throw again, he putting up eight dollars to "represent."  I threw again, and won four hundred dollars.  The money was paid, two hundred dollars on each ticket, to abide the issue of the throwing; but we were informed that we must come up twenty dollars apiece.  I was inclined to draw out, but David offered to put up for me, assuring me that he "saw into it," and that under any contingency we were to take down the money that we "represented" with.  I told him that I couldn't permit him to put up for me, so I put up the twenty dollars.  I threw and it was a "star."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>It was sometime before I could really realize that I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>396</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Through the kindness of the manager of that mammoth establishment, I was shown through Stewart's wholesale house, from basement to uppermost room.  I think it is six stories high, with a large elevator to hoist up and let down customers.  The retail store covers an entire block, and I believe the wholesale house does also--at any rate it is very large.  One floor is filled with domestics, another with prints, another with woolen fabrics, carpets, etc., another with silks, fancy goods, etc.  Mr Stewart consumes the entire product of fourteen large factories of cotton fabrics.  When I was there the store contained between $8,000,000 and $10,000,000 worth of goods; so I was informed by the foreman.  I next visited the retail store, which is six stories high, exclusive of the basement, and has street entrances on all four sides.  I do not know how to make one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I next visited the gold rooms on Wall Street, to see the "bulls" and "bears" fight, and to me it was a very great curiosity.  In fact, after having visited as many lunatic asylums as I have, had I been set down in the gallery blindfolded, and had the bandage removed from my eyes, I should have taken them for a set of maniacs, and should have fully expected to see them pitch into one another and fight to the death.  Such shouting, screaming, shaking of fists and fingers, jostling and pushing, I never before saw without its ending in a fight.  I was asked by a friend who sat at my side, what I thought of it.  I told him if they were in California a commission of lunacy would be issued against the whole crowd and they would be landed in the Stockton asylum in less than twenty-four hours.  Nevertheless there was method in their madness, for they seemed to understand one another perfectly.</P>
189.sgm:<P>In my first day's exploration of New York, I owed much to Mr. Steinhart, of the firm of Dinkelspiel, Bloom &amp; Co.  I had expected to meet my old friend, Joseph Bloom, in New York, but in this I was disappointed, as he had left for California two days before my arrival; but Mr. Steinhart was master of the situation, and rendered me all the assistance that I could have asked of my friend, for which I felt very greteful.  Among the public grounds which I visited in New York--all of which are very beautiful--were Central Park, Union Square, Madison Square, Steuben Square, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>397</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Croton River has been a God-send to New York City.  I do not know what they would have done without it.  That stream has been brought into New York by canals and aqueducts, and is now emptied into what is known as the old and new Croton Lakes, both of which are artificial excavations.  I could not learn the area of either, but they are both large ponds of water and are indispensable to the comfort and beauty of the city.  I shall attempt no description of buildings, further than to say that the new post-office is of most ample proportions, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Among the curiosities that I visited in New York (for I can only mention some of the most prominent) was Barnum's hippodrome which was the wonder of the day.  It had been open but three weeks and I was informed by good authority that it had taken in over sixty thousand dollars.  It had the effect of closing the theaters and other places of amusement.  California's favorite, McCullough, was then in New York, performing with scarcely a corporal's guard attending.  The hippodrome is an immense institution; it is to ordinary circuses and theaters what a steam locomotive would be to a handcart.</P>
189.sgm:<P>At the end of four days I had visited various points of interest in New York, from Castle Garden to Sixty-fifth Street, north and south, and from North to East Rivers, east and west; had made the discovery that Manhattan Island was divided up into one hundred and forty-one thousand, four hundred and eighty-six lots, and that of that number, about sixty-two thousand contained buildings of some kind.  I then turned my attention to the surroundings of New York.  Sunday morning, instead of going to Brooklyn to hear Beecher explain the most approved mode of "nest hiding," I took the boat for Staten Island.  I had no acquaintance on the boat, and having met with so many rebuffs from men of whom I had made inquiries, by their going down into their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>On further inquiry I found that my new friend (for such he proved himself), was John H. Parsell, of the New York City Post-office.  From this urbane gentleman I obtained more valuable information in regard to New York and its surroundings than from any other source.  On our return he accompanied me into the city, pointed out many relics of Revolutionary days, instructed me in my future researches, and gracefully extended me all those delicate attentions that can only be found in a heart of refinement and a mind of enlarged views.  He even followed me with his kindness, promptly forwarding all my letters after I had left New York.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I visited in detail, Jersey City, Hoboken, Williamsburg, Hell Gate, Blackwell's Island, Governor's Island, and Brooklyn.  The last named is one of New York's lodging-houses.  Brooklyn is a large city, containing about five hundred thousand inhabitants, and is famous for its fine avenues, public grounds, and the far-famed Greenwood Cemetery.  The highest point of Greenwood commands a pretty view of Governor's Island and the southern portion of New York.  I had heard so much <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>401</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Prospect Park is a lovely place from its natural beauties, and its elevated position gives a perfect view of the eastern slope of Long Island, Coney Island, and the surrounding country.  The Brooklyn people are firmly in the faith that in a few years it will eclipse Central Park.  Taking New York and its surroundings as a whole, the American people may justly be proud of the great great metropolis.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIX.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>VISIT TO THE EAST--PHILADELPHIA AND BALTIMORE.</P>
189.sgm:<P>AFTER having spent eight days in New York, and familiarized myself with the city, and having visited both Barnum's great hippodrome and the old Bowery theater, besides various works of art and many other places of interest, I resumed my journey, passing through New Jersey, Delaware, Pennsylvania, and Maryland, my objective point being Washington.  The route lay through an undulating country, showing great thrift in an agricultural point of view.</P>
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189.sgm:<P>We rushed on "o'er river, plain, and hill," until we reached Philadelphia--the "Quaker City."  It is situated on the Delaware River, a short distance above the bay of the same name.  The selection of the town site gives evidence of good taste, as it is located in the midst of a rich agricultural district and commands superior advantages as a seaport.  There are many historic memories that cling to the old town, and I regretted that I had no more time to spend there.  I was much disappointed in not finding my old friend, General Patterson, who was out of town.  The city extends along the Delaware River from five to six miles and extends west to and beyond the Schuylkill River.  It is the second city in population in the United States, containing some seven hundred thousand inhabitants.  Though it is about ninety-six miles from the ocean, by the river, the tide flows some distance above the city.  The soil in and about the city is generally of a gravelly character, yet there are some bold rocks in the immediate vicinity.  The old State House (now Independence Hall) is still standing and well preserved.  The old bell that first rang out the joyful notes of the birth of the American Republic still has a tongue to speak.  It was in this hall that the Declaration of Independence was signed, and it was also the nation's capitol, with a slight intermission, up to 1800, when the capital was removed to Washington.  The old capitol stands near the center of the city, and Philadelphia may justly be proud of her relic of continental days.</P>
189.sgm:<P>At Philadelphia the water off the pier-heads is from forty to fifty feet deep, and the shoalest place on the bar below the city is nineteen feet at low tide, which allows <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Girard College is a grand institution, and some of its regulations coincide with my notions.  One is that when the student leaves college he must be bound out to learn some useful trade or profession.  The structure is of enormous proportions.  The building alone was erected at a cost of over two million dollars, together with an immense outlay of money on the surroundings and fixtures, with a large fund to run the institution.  All tuition there is free.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Another great beauty of Philadelphia is its fine water works.  Though it has no Croton River, or stream that can be brought on a sufficient elevation to water the city, yet I have hardly found a city better <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The whole route from Philadelphia to Baltimore presents to the traveler a bright and lively picture.  The soil seems to be generally productive and the whole line of road is studded with fine buildings, orchards, lawns, parks, and all the conveniences that should surround happy homes.  On arriving at the depot I could understand what to me before was a mystery; that is, how it was possible for the Baltimoreans to so seriously annoy the Massachusetts Regiment in the cars while passing through that city at the commencement of the Rebellion.  I found that the locomotive was detached and a large number of horses hitched to the cars to draw them up a steep incline, about a mile and a half, to the second depot.  Hence the opportunity for the prolonged attacks with paving-stones and brickbats.  This route is still adhered to by the Pennsylvania Central Railroad.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Baltimore claims to be the third city in point of population in the United States.  Such <HI REND="italics">was</HI>
189.sgm:<P>I can say but little of the public buildings, as I could not afford the time to make a general survey of the city, although there were two structures that came particularly under my notice.  One was Washington's Monument and the other the Vernon Church.  They are both situated on a commanding eminence, and from the top of the monument you have a beautiful view of both the city and harbor.  The monument is round, one hundred and eighty feet in height, built of granite with a colossal statue of Washington on top.  The Vernon Church (Episcopal) is the prettiest thing of the kind I ever saw.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In penning this I am not unmindful that it must meet the eye of many who have visited our national capital, among whom may be some who hold different views of Washington City from mine; but I always exercise the right of seeing with my own eyes, and I give my own estimates of men and manners.  When I arrived at my hotel (Willard's) I was soon surrounded by darkey porters who vied with each other to see who should get my luggage and quarter.  My experience had been, during the whole trip, that if a man didn't make up his mind to bleed freely, he had better dodge first-class hotels.  The one who takes your valise expects his quarter; the one who brushes your dusty back counts on a "piece;" the one who takes your soiled linen to the laundry looks for his fee, and the one who returns it expects you to "see" him; you ring for a pitcher of ice-water and it costs you some fractional currency; the hand that manages the elevator becomes very sore unless it receives a "shin plaster;" the waiter at table cannot hear or understand your order unless you open his understanding by opening your purse--in a word, you must subsidize <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Montreal, New York, and Washington are, in my estimation, the three prettiest cities that I visited.  They show more taste and architectural beauty, with wide streets and white walls, less filth and more life, without that somber appearance that characterizes many cities of our Union.  I had often heard Baltimore praised for its pretty women, but I saw none there.  At the time I could not account for it, but on arriving at Washington the mystery was solved; for when I saw the array of beauty there I came to the conclusion that the pretty women had all moved to Washington during the session of Congress.</P>
189.sgm:<P>After dinner I ventured out into the strange city.  It was a clear, pleasant night, with brilliant moon, which made it nearly as light as day.  I looked up the long avenue to Capitol Hill, and there before me, like a specter in white, stood the national capitol, with its lofty dome extending its dark shadow along the background, resembling a stern warrior posted as a sentinel, with his plume unstirred by a single breeze, keeping his night watch over that lovely city lying below, which was lit up by thousands of gas jets, and mirth and pleasure held their revels.  Government officials, clerks, and employes have completed their labors for the day and are now out in force.  Gray-headed statesmen, pleasure seekers, and gallants are now to be seen threading their way through the beautiful grounds and parks, escorting the softer sex of all ages and conditions, ranging from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>408</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:the most transcendent beauty down to mere bundles of paint and powder.  Some are seated in retired nooks beneath lovely green shades, where the moonbeams never stray.  Near a babbling fountain, where the voice is almost drowned by the sound of many waters, may be seen sighing lovers pouring their plaints into ears of willing listeners.  In these public grounds there are lovely walks for the pedestrian, drives for those who cannot afford to walk, seats for those who cannot stand, shade for the retiring, and lights for the student.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"For oh! if there be an Elysium on earth, It is this, it is this."</HI>
189.sgm:<P>The public buildings in Washington are all white.  The capitol, post-office department, and some others are at the east end of the city, while the President's mansion and the remainder of the public buildings are at the west end, near the Potomac River.  Millions upon millions of public money have been expended to make Washington what it is; but this is as it should be; we have a national reputation to sustain, and how could it better be done than by beautifying our capital and grounds.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I cannot convince myself that the site for the Washington monument was wisely chosen.  It is situated upon a point (once an island) commanding an extensive view of the Potomac River and western shore; but the ground where the monument stands is so much lower than the capitol grounds and those of the other public buildings that the monument, from a land view, is entirely dwarfed when compared with its surroundings.  The monument is an imposing structure.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The next morning I called on my friends J. K. Luttrell and Frank Page, both faithful representatives of our State in Congress.  I was much annoyed to learn that they were not friends, not even on speaking terms, and that the subject of their disagreement was such that I could offer no mediation; and this was rendered still more vexatious to me, as I found them both apparently laboring faithfully (but each in his own way) for the interests of their constituency.  Mr. Page was domiciled at Washington, had his family with him, his own house, carriage and complete outfit for driving and entertaining friends and guests.  In calling at his house I was made to feel as though I was once more among friends.  As to the quarters of Luttrell, they seemed unpretending and looked more like the workshop of the laborious student and statesman than a hall of pleasure; and I was not long in finding out that he was a general favorite in Congress, and the defeat of many of his prominent measures for California was neither owing to his want of perseverance or popularity, but was rather owing to a combination in the East against the entire delegation from the Pacific slope.  Luttrell seemed to know everybody and perfectly confused me with introductions to notable characters whom I could not describe were I disposed to make the attempt.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I had long had a desire to see Gen. Ben Butler, and it was now gratified.  He was quietly listening to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I saw the negro orator, Fred Douglass.  I should suppose from his complexion, that he probably is a quadroon and that he owes his intelligence to white ancestors; at least, he has more ability than full-blooded negroes ever fall heir to.  His head is as white as a sheet, and age seems to be telling upon him.  I also met Gen. J. W. Denver, an old Californian, who told me that he was practicing law in Ohio.  Senator Cole was also at the capitol, looking as though he was very much at home in its halls.  But enough of this, for I met no one in Washington unknown to fame--even Grant is known throughout the land--and they are all "written up" by more able pens than mine, and as this is a simple story of a traveler I leave biography to others.</P>
189.sgm:<P>From the time I left home it had been my intention to visit Mount Vernon.  I accordingly took passage on a steamer that made daily trips to that sacred place.  I believe we started about seven o'clock in the morning and returned at four in the afternoon, and that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:distance is about twenty-five or thirty miles from Washington.  It was a lovely morning as we steamed down that wide and beautiful river.  There was not a ripple on the water and it reflected objects from its smooth surface with all the truthfulness of a mirror.  We swept down past Alexandria and numerous fortifications on either shore, and in due time landed at Mount Vernon.  A beautiful custom here strikes the visitor.  Every steamer that passes down the river commences tolling its bell before reaching Washington's burial place, and continues the solemn tolling until the vessel has passed the spot.  Mount Vernon is on the west bank of the Potomac, on a high commanding point.  The river, whose general course is north and south, then makes a bend to the west, which gives a grand view up and down the stream.  The close observer will soon learn on landing at Mount Vernon that, though he is standing, as it were, on holy ground, though pressing the soil so often trod by the "father of his country," yet there is but little there that Washington could recognize, were he permitted to pay it a visit; for the evidences of former neglect and recent repairs are too apparent at every glance to admit of doubt or contradiction.  The late improvements have been made by the Ladies' Mount Vernon Association.  Washington's tomb is between the house and river.  It is large, but unpretending, and is composed of brick-work with iron gratings in front.  It contains the remains of others of the family, besides several graves and monuments near by, of other noted persons.  The residence is a common two-story building, with porches above and below.  Some books and paintings of the Washington family <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER L.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>A VISIT TO THE EAST--"ON TO RICHMOND!"</P>
189.sgm:<P>AFTER having taken the principal cities of the Union by storm (for up to this time there had been but little fair weather), and wishing to emulate the heroes of other days, I was determined to push my conquests south.  Accordingly on the 24th of May, 1874, after arming myself with a box of cigars, a flask of old Bourbon and a box of Brandreth's pills, I opened the campaign by chartering a steamer (or at least two dollars and a half's worth of one) and steamed boldly down the Potomac, passing Alexandria and other places of less note.  In about two and a half we landed at Quantico, where we took the cars for Richmond.  Whether from our approach or some other cause, I found the country pretty generally deserted, excepting by a few contrabands who attacked the train, but by bestowing quarters they were easily captured.  The country through which we passedat some time had been cultivated and very well improved, but the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>In due time we reached Fredericksburg, a small town pleasantly located on the south bank of the Rappahannock.  It was at this point that Joe Hooker made his big fight, and where Stonewall Jackson and many other brave men fell; but not a sign is left to tell of that sanguinary struggle; not a fortification, trench, or earthwork is now to be seen.  I took the town entirely by surprise, as there was not a soul in the place aware of my approach.  There were but two shots fired, and those were fired by me.  I shot Mr. Barbour, an old citizen of Fredericksburg, and his companion.  Both shots took effect in the neck, and the enemy surrendered at discretion.  After the capture we were soon on board the cars and arrived at Richmond about four o'clock in the afternoon, where a short struggle ensued, but I was again victorious.  The city surrendered and I established my head-quarters in the Ballard and Exchange, having accomplished in one day what cost the United States two years of bloody war and untold millions of treasure to do, and that "without the loss of a man on our side."  I wonder if history will do me justice.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Richmond is a beautiful city.  On entering it, the cars ran out to the bridge spanning the James River, and before me, spread out for nearly half a mile in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>During my visit to Richmond I tried to trace some evidences of the great struggle, but in vain.  There is scarcely a mark or a scar left to give evidence of the sanguinary conflicts that raged in and about the city.  My first and greatest curiosity was to visit the old Libby prison, which is situated between Cary Street and the river.  I found it now, as it was before the war, an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>415</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>While all reasonable efforts have been made to obliterate the recollections of our late civil strife, it is pleasing to see how carefully everything has been preserved that relates to the great Revolution of our forefathers.  Not only the residence of Washington is faithfully preserved, but standing on Libby Hill is the venerable St. John's Church, in which Patrick Henry delivered his philippics against the English Government, and where with matchless eloquence he urged our patriotic sires to take up arms in defense of infant liberty.  It is true the church is somewhat like the boy's jackknife which had been rehandled and rebladed, yet it was the knife his grandsire gave him.  St. John's Church, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>415</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>In the State House grounds stands the finest equestrian statue of Washington that I saw on my journey, and, it is said, the finest in the world.  Around on the projecting pedestal,stands, in life size, Virginia's statesmen and heroes.  Among them are Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, Crawford, Mason, and several others.  But it would take a large pedestal to contain the statues of all the great men Virginia has produced.  Inside the State House there are many things that to the lovers of early American history are worthy of observation.  There is a great mass of documents relating to revolutionary days which reach back even to the first settlement of America, for be it remembered that the city of Richmond is one of the oldest cities of America.  Among other things in the State House, I found the parole of honor of Lord Cornwallis, upon which he was released for exchange.  It was dated October 28, 1781, and permitted Cornwallis to return to England either by way of New York or Baltimore, and he pledged his honor to report himself for exchange any place dictated by His Excellency, George Washington, commander-in-chief of the United States forces.  I also saw, preserved under glass, the original draft of the Declaration of Rights, by Mason.  There are also many ancient books there preserved, and some of them are great curiosities.  One was published over five hundred years ago--of course before the art of printing, but I am certain that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>417</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>416</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>But, by the way, speaking of water puts a man in mind of fishing.  I have a fine production of the art and genius of this same John Smith.  It is nothing less than a correct and well-executed engraved map of the survey of the State of Virginia, made by him.  The survey was made while in the colony and the map was engraved at London, England.  Smith did not live to enjoy the fruits of his labor or to even exhibit to the people of England his map of the new world; but a traveler discovered the plate among some old rubbish that was being exposed for sale at auction, and bought it.  The copy in my possession was kindly presented me by the superintendent of public printing in Virginia--Mr. Walker.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The mass of the inhabitants of Richmond are negroes, or more or less mixed with negro blood.  I found them employed as barbers, mechanics of different kinds, house servants and common laborers, but I never in one instance saw one of them in a store, either as clerk or principal; and the matter struck me as being so strange that I gave it my particular attention. Notwithstanding the great negro majority in Richmond, the city officers are all Democrats, many of the negroes esteeming the carpet-baggers worse than do the whites; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>417</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I had intended going farther south, but was dissuaded from my purpose by the Richmond people, who assured me that my trip would be anything but pleasant or instructive.  The seasons are just about as early in Richmond as they are in this part of California.  Richmond, with her boundless water-power, her advantages as a shipping point, together with a fertile country surrounding <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>418</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>On Sunday morning I ascended the hill and took a last look at the city of Richmond, packed my traps, bade good-by to the Ballard and Exchange Hotel, and at half-past one o'clock took the cars on my back track, arriving in Washington about six in the evening.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>A VISIT TO THE EAST--HOMEWARD BOUND.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I HAD now become very anxious (I do not like to say homesick) about home, and took my way through Harrisburg, Pittsburg, Columbus, and "all intermediate points" to Cincinnati.  I would like to tell you something about the city of Pittsburg, but the smoke was so dense that it was absolutely impossible to see enough to form any opinion further than to say that coal, smoke, and iron were the principal things with which I came in contact.  As to Columbus, it is only remarkable from the fact that it is the capital of Ohio.  We landed from the cars at  at Cincinnati in the night, and I probably never shall know just how I did get in, as we went a great distance around the city before the hackmen assailed us; but at last I brought up at the Burnett House, where I got good accommodations at four and a half dollars per day.  I remained but one day, although I regretted that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>420</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>419</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I went to see the inclined plane that is constructed to ascend the bluff overlooking the city.  It is so arranged that when one car runs up the steep incline another runs down, operating like a couple of well buckets, one at each end of the rope.  The rope is made of wire and is about an inch and a half thick.  The motive power is a large steam engine on the hill.  The enterprise is still young, although they have a large pavilion, restaurant, saloons, etc., and the place is intended to be to Cincinnati what Woodward's Garden is to San Francisco, with some exceptions.  From this elevated position you have a magnificent view of the city which lies at your feet, and a long stretch of the Kentucky shore.  Standing on this commanding position, it is difficult to realize that three hundred thousand inhabitants are at once beneath the vision's range.  Cincinnati is a great horse market, and many hundreds of fine horse are sold there daily.  Real estate was very low while I was there, magnificent brown stone fronts being sold at auction.  The city has a very fine park, several public squares, and many handsome public buildings.</P>
189.sgm:<P>As I am homeward bound, my route lies through the southern part of Indiana after leaving Ohio.  This portion of Indiana has been heavily timbered, and the soil does not compare very favorably with the middle, or prairie, portion of the State.  We passed Vincennes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>420</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Leaving St. Louis we traveled across Missouri, visiting Kansas City on our route, but in reaching that point we passed through a level, fertile, and what looked like a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>421</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>From this point I made a night trip to Omaha, arriving there about ten o'clock in the morning, after some delays on the east side of the Missouri River.  About eleven we were on our way for California, having been fortunate enough to secure a good lower section in the palace sleeping-car.  We rolled along over every variety of country of which the mind could conceive, but the general topography was barren and uninteresting after leaving the Platte River.</P>
189.sgm:<P>When I left home for my Eastern visit, I left behind me green fields and buds and blossoms of spring; but on nearing the Sierra I merged from spring into winter, and continued to encounter winter weather through Nevada, Utah, and, in fact, through all the Western States, Upper and Lower Canada, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Massachusetts.  I found spring again in New York City, and it continued until I reached Richmond, where I found summer, which held on until I reached Omaha, when I again came into the season of spring.  This lasted until I came to the Sierra Nevada on my homeward journey, and there I found my third winter in one year.  But on commencing the descent of the western <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>423</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>422</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>As far as the eye could extend, we could see spreading out before us the ripe, waving fields of grain, gently undulating in one of California's soft and delicious breezes, reflecting back its rich golden hue in the brilliant rays of a California summer sun.  The passengers were perfectly delighted, each calling the attention of fellow travelers to the opposite side of the cars, and each believing that he or she had discovered a prospect surpassing in loveliness all others.  To those who had never witnessed it before the sight was equaled only by that of Balboa on discovering the Pacific.  Presently we came in full view of the Sacramento River.  From our elevated position it looked like a silver thread winding its way through bright green pastures until it lost itself in the distant windings among the foot-hills of Mount Diablo, which are kissed by the ever restless waves of San Pablo Bay.  In this instance Campbell is wrong.  "Distance" does not "lend enchantment to the view," for as we approached Sacramento the scene became more lovely still.  Broad, spreading vineyards, well-cultivated gardens, orchards loaded with fruit, long and shady avenues, and palatial residences were constantly passing before us in this beautiful panorama.  All on board seemed not only happy, but jubilant.</P>
189.sgm:<P>We arrived at Sacramento, the capital of California, and, after twenty minutes for lunch, were off again on the southern route for San Francisco.  This route gave us an excellent view of California's capitol, and as I viewed that massive pile, with its ample and lofty dome <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>423</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>MY CALIFORNIA HOME.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Breathes there a man with soul so dead<LB>Who never to himself has said,<LB>This is my own, my native land!<LB>Whose heart has ne'er within him burned,<LB>As home his footsteps he has turned<LB>From wandering on a foreign strand!"</HI>
189.sgm:<P>HAVING led my California friends through a long journey a longjourney over several States, and through the principal cities of the Union, I will now, as a closing scene, devote a short chapter to a description of my California home and its surroundings, for the benefit of my Eastern friends, to whom I hope it may not be entirely uninteresting.  The last chapter closed with my arrival at San Francisco.  That city I shall not attempt to describe.  Though but twenty-five years old, it is the Hercules of the Pacific.  In 1849 it was Yerba Buena.  The pueblo of Yerba Buena contained the Mission Dolores and little more.  Now, in 1874, it is the great mart of the Pacific, and boasts a population of two hundred thousand inhabitants.  It would take a respectable volume instead of a single chapter to describe that flourishing city and its surroundings.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>424</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>At San Francisco I met my family, and, after remaining a short time to enable them to finish up their visit, one bright day in June we took passage in the steamer <HI REND="italics">Antelope</HI>
189.sgm: and crossed the bay <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
189.sgm:<P>A ride of sixteen miles from Petaluma, through a very pleasant valley, brings us to Santa Rosa.  This fine little city is situated near the center of the lovely valley of that name.  The surrounding country is generally fertile, producing wheat, barley, oats, and all the family of root vegetables in great abundance, but it is most remarkable for its immense yields of hay.  The valley lying between Santa Rosa and Petaluma is very rich in soil, but rather low, and it has received but little at the hands of art to develop or to beautify its natural resources.  The valley was, unfortunately, a Mexican grant, and has never been divided up into farms, but the whole constitutes an immense stock ranch.  Santa Rosa is the county seat of Sonoma County, and for the last two years has made a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>425</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Fifteen miles in a northeasterly direction lies the town of Healdsburg, my home.  Healdsburg is situated on the bank of Russian River, between that stream and Dry Creek.  The land upon which the town is built is dry and gravelly, with the Russian River Valley on the east and the famous Dry Creek Valley west and north of the city.  The town is also about two miles above the confluence of the two streams.  No more lovely spot was ever selected for a town site.  The soil in the valleys surrounding Healdsburg is probably the finest in the world, the banks of the Nile not excepted.  And the best feature in the case is the fact that artificial fertilization is not needed, as nature has provided a fertilizer in the flood that visits us in our winter season.  Sometimes it is much greater than it is at others, owing to the can&tilde;on some twelve miles below Healdsburg, which in a very heavy flood backs the water over our valleys to a depth of from three to four feet.  There is then but little current and the rich vegetable deposits washed from the surrounding hills are allowed to settle on the surface of the ground.  These floods run off very soon and never overflow the land more than from twenty-four to thirty-six hours, and, though the grain crops may be sowed, and all green, they are not injured, but frequently improved by their inundation.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Sonoma County is the garden of California, and Russian River and Dry Creek Valleys are the garden spots of Sonoma County.  One remarkable feature is that since the county's earliest settlement we have never lost <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>426</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Healdsburg is within seventeen miles of the great Geyser Springs, over one of the finest mountain roads in the world.  The view of the valley and streams below from this road beggars all description.  Skaggs Springs are situated fourteen miles up one of the loveliest drives in the world.  Lytton's Soda and Seltzer Springs are distant three miles from here.  A large hotel is being built at these springs, and next year it will be opened to the public.  This will at once become one of the most popular watering places in the State.  Sulphur Flat Sulphur Spring is within two miles, Fitch Mountain Sulphur Spring within one mile and a half, and many others of less note are within a short distance of this place.</P>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>427</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Our climate cannot be surpassed in the world.  We have some hot days during the summer, but they are very few and easily endured when we take into consideration the fact that such a thing as a hot night is unknown with us.  We can always sleep under a couple of blankets during the warmest summer nights; and we are never troubled with mosquitoes or gnats.  The fogs and cold winds from the ocean have but little effect here, as the winds in crossing the Coast Range for about forty miles become so modified and softened as to be only cool and pleasant.  During my long residence in this town, I have never known a case of chills and fever, or fever and ague, or any other malarious disease, unless brought here from some other part, and then it would soon disappear.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Our scenery is the admiration of all visitors.  It is, in fact, one extensive valley from the bay to and far beyond Healdsburg.  As the town is approached it seems an amphitheater surrounded in the background by lofty hills and mountains.  At the east, just raising its high head and prominent nose above Fitch Mountain, may be seen Mount St. Helena, some fifteen miles distant.  To the northeast is Pine Mountain, crowned with a dense forest, while north is Sulphur Peak, raising its bald head high above the surrounding hills.  Fitch Mountain, within a mile of the City, is a prominent landmark by which we can for many miles around locate the exact position of Healdsburg.  At the west the hills gradually rise until, far in the distance, between us and the ocean, they assume the magnitude of mountains and present to the eye one of the loveliest pictures imaginable.  The first belt of hills, ranging from three to four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>428</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIII.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>RETURN TO BUSINESS--MORE THRILLING INCIDENTS.</P>
189.sgm:<P>ON my return from the East, I once more settled down to my profession.  As to my family relations, on the first day of September, 1865, I had married Miss Minnie Molloy, daughter of Dr. E. B. Molloy, and she proved a most kind and affectionate wife, wholly domestic in her nature, and, thanks to her parents, had been the recipient of a first-class education.  Her affections were of that warm and engaging nature that she looked upon the happiness of her husband and children as her only aim in life.  She bore three children, the eldest a girl.  However, I held her but for the short space of six years, and her death left me with an infant boy eight months old.  In the early months of our marriage an accident happened to me, which I will here record.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I was engaged on part of the plaintiff in the case of Bennet <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
189.sgm:. Bennet, for divorce, having made an application for the custody of the children.  The case was tried in Mendocino County, and it was necessary for four of us, the plaintiff, her two witnesses, and myself to go from Healdsburg to Ukiah, and that necessitated a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>429</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>As we were returning over the old toll-road on the west side of Russian River, the high hills on our right and a perpendicular precipice of thirty feet on the left, and a road-bed of about fifteen feet, winding up the mountain, on turning a bend, we suddenly met a team.  The bank side was ours by right of way, but the other parties took it, throwing us on the side next the precipice.  They halted to let me pass (I was driving), but as I attempted to drive on I discovered the limb of an oak tree projecting over the road, that came so far out as to fence me off, so that I could not swing in behind them.  Coming to a halt, I told them to drive ahead; but before they could understand what I wanted, my horses commenced backing, and the wagon pulled on them, inclining to run down the grade.  I readily comprehended the situation and urged my horses to advance, striking them with the whip; but the more I urged them, the faster they backed.  At this place there was a bend in the bank, forming a horseshoe, the toe running to the precipice.  I saw that we were destined to go over the precipice back foremost.  As the grade got steeper in our downward descent, I whirled my horses, facing the precipice, and noticed a jack-oak growing below the precipice, whose branching, feathery top came up even with the top of the bank.  It was now so steep that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>430</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>I had been there but a few minutes when I heard some one say that Bennet, the defendant in our case, had run off with the children, and it was supposed that he was taking them to Oregon.  When I heard this I asked MacDonald if he had any brandy.  He answered in the affirmative, when I asked for a glass.  After drinking it, I dictated dispatches to Chief Burke, of San Francisco, and to the Sacramento police, and all was a blank for some time.  The next thing that I realized was that Dr. Pike was present (the local physician).  Word was sent to Healdsburg for Dr. O. S. Allen, my family physician, and Dr. Molloy, my father-in-law.  On the way down the man reported the accident in Cloverdale, and Dr. Weaver, from the State of Nevada, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>431</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>They went to work in good earnest, gave me a thorough examination, found that two ribs had been stove in near the backbone, that the point of the left shoulder was broken, that my head was badly cut in several places and full of gravel-stones, and that the nervous system was badly shaken.  My neck and all around the top of my shoulders assumed an inky blackness, but I had become entirely conscious.  Night was coming on, and they were desirous of getting me into the house.  They attempted to move me on the mattress, and carry me in, but the instant they commenced raising me on the mattress the breath would leave me, and I would faint, the pain was so excruciating.  They had to leave me where I was, and I was compelled to remain there with an awning over me for three days, when I called MacDonald to me and asked him if he had any wide boards about the place, from sixteen to eighteen inches wide.  He said that he had, when I asked him to cut off a piece seven feet long and bring it there.  Some thought I was losing my mind, but he complied with my request.  "Now," said I, "nail a bracket on one end, four inches high."  He again complied.  "Now," said I to Dr. Allen, "carefully shove that board under my mattress, and let the bracket come up to my feet."  This was done.  "Now," I continued, "go to my head and raise the board."  I found that my plan was a success; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>432</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>The doctors unanimously agreed that I would never get entirely over the injuries, but would be able to get around, and might survive for several years.  But they were mistaken, as I have had occasion to try my manhood several times since, and could not see that I had lost much of my former elasticity.</P>
189.sgm:<P>Subsequent to the foregoing event, there was a desperate attempt made upon my life; I was seated in a chair, when the would-be assassin drew a cocked revolver, clapped it to my ear and fired.  I saw the pressure of his fingers upon the trigger of the revolver, and throwing my head back and my hand up, the bullet crashed diagonally through the hand.  I sprang to my feet and with my other hand reached for my revolver; but it was in the scabbard, buttoned down.  My assailant had a long navy revolver, and continued his fire at close range, the muzzle of his pistol never four feet from me during the fire.  He continued to fire in the most excited manner until he had emptied his weapon, when I had succeeded in getting my revolver with my one hand.  He then started to run, when I hastily fired as he was about to escape through a door.  I fired a little too quick, and just barked his neck with my bullet.  I then sprang forward and drew a bead on his back as he was running; but from some cause the hammer of my revolver came down between the tubes.  I cocked again, and would have got him before he escaped from the building, had it not been that a pretended friend sprang forward and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>434</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>433</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>This last occurrence left me in rather a bad situation, having comparatively lost the use of my right hand by a saber cut in the Mexican War, and now my left shattered by an assassin's bullet, left me crippled in both hands.  And this combination of circumstances has clearly demonstrated to me that the old adage, "Truth is stranger than fiction," has been verified.  But this was no secret; the whole town of Healdsburg well knew of the affair, which occurred in the very place where this is written; and there were over twenty persons in the room when the would-be murderer commenced shooting.  I lay for three months with my hand-wound, and some portion of the time in a critical condition; but at last it healed, and I again continued my practice.</P>
189.sgm:<P>About a year after the death of my wife, I found it necessary to again marry, as raising a family of small children alone was anything but pleasant.  Hence, on the 14th of January, 1872, I married the daughter of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>434</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LIV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>POLITICAL.</P>
189.sgm:<P>AS I have, in this volume, made no reference to my political creed, and as such a work would be incomplete without some allusion to that feature of my career, I here reproduce a short letter which has heretofore been published.  This letter will not only explain itself, but will suffice to indicate my political predilections in a general way.</P>
189.sgm:<P>HEALDSBURG, CAL., June 27, 1868.</P>
189.sgm:<P>HON. JOHN BUSH, Placerville, Cal.-- <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
189.sgm:<P>To begin: As an American I am proud of my country, and love its many glorious institutions; and hope that my highest ambition always shall be, as it always has been, to add to rather than diminish her honor and glory.</P>
189.sgm:<P>At the Presidential election in 1860, as a Democrat, I supported that party.  At the Charleston convention a portion split off from the party and organized what was known as the Baltimore convention.  The Charleston <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>436</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>435</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>On the 8th of November, 1863, President Lincoln issued his proclamation, offering to send any seceded State a provisional governor when that State would make the request known by one-tenth of the votes, taking the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>436</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>The South at this time was disarmed and powerless, while the conquerors possessed all the vast armament of the great American nation; hence no fear of treachery could reasonably be suspected, and hence the country had a right to rejoice in the happy termination of the fratricidal war, and a restoration of peace and tranquillity to our bleeding nation.  Under this new organization the representatives of these reconstructed State <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>438</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>437</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>But, thank God, the people still forbore, and the horrid impositions of that body calling itself a Congress of the United States have continued.  They have recklessly trampled the constitution under their feet at every turn.  They have sent the bayonet in times of peace into the Southern States--overturned State governments in violation of the constitution (and these the governments they themselves had once recognized by the votes on the amendment to the constitution of the United States, and the only means by which that amendment carried), and have, for political purposes alone, disfranchised a large portion of the white, law-abiding voters, and enfranchised an ignorant, savage and lawless herd of blacks.  By the aid of the Freedmen's Bureau they have placed thousands of emissaries in these ill-fated States to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>439</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>438</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Now, my dear friend, you will do me the justice to admit that I denounced Jefferson Davis and his horde as rebels, and wished them punished as traitors for rebelling against the laws of the United States, though this rebellion was conducted by open enemies and brave men; then why should you think it inconsistent that I should oppose rebels and traitors to the institutions of our fathers, who have not manhood enough to decide their fate by the wager of battle, but who are fast accomplishing by fraud and evil legislation, what the former rebels failed to do by force of arms.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I can readily understand why you think me inconsistent; it is owing to your standpoint, and the reflection of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>439</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>Your sincere friend, and obedient servant,</P>
189.sgm:<P>L. A. NORTON.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LV.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>COMPLIMENTARY.</P>
189.sgm:<P>PHILADELPHIA, Pa., 1200 Locust Street, July 26, 1880.</P>
189.sgm:<P>L.A. NORTON, ESQ.-- <HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
189.sgm:: Your favor of the 26th ult. is duly received.  I regret that among our losses by fire were your letters and many others.  I very well remember our meeting at Vera Cruz, and our first meeting at the <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:<P>I am, dear sir, with great respect, sincerely yours,</P>
189.sgm:<P>R. PATTERSON.</P>
189.sgm:<P>THE above brief letter would be incomplete without some explanation.  Our command, several thousand strong, was encamped on the bank of a lovely little stream which takes its rise in the Orizaba Mountains, rushing from the mountains in a tumbling and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>441</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>440</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:tumultuous torrent, then flowing placidly through the valley for several miles, when it comes to an abrupt depression in the valley and takes a perpendicular leap of one hundred and fifty feet.  Our camp was some two or three miles above this fall.  We were a portion of General Patterson's division, and his head-quarters were at Santa Anna's <HI REND="italics">hacienda</HI>
189.sgm:<P>Now it so happened that we needed some commissary supplies, much of which had to be procured from the country through which we passed, and in many instances by forced purchase.  That is, we would take what we wanted and leave the owners a fair compensation in coin.  I had detailed a force of about one hundred and fifty men and quite a wagon train, to go down the river in quest of rations.  I had proceeded about eight miles, having left the direct line of the river and main valley, and was some two miles east of it, among some low, rolling hills and small valleys, when my advance reported horsemen and lancers in our front.  My force were all mounted men.  I halted immediately and sent out a small scouting party, under cover of a brushy hill.  As the enemy evidently had not yet discovered us, we had but little difficulty in getting their course.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>My scouts reported the party to be a battalion of lancers, from two hundred and fifty to three hundred strong.  Their object was quite evident to me, and if I was to save our men and stock I must act promptly.  I left ten men to guard the wagons and put the rest of the command in rapid motion, keeping behind the low hills; and when we broke upon the Mexicans over the brow of the hill, we were not five hundred feet from them.  We charged for the center, dashed through, and, wheeling to the right and left, rolled their two flanks up like a scroll.  They stood the shock for a moment, and ordered their fire with more coolness than I had expected; but they could not stand our carbine and holster fire, and broke and scattered in all directions.  They left twenty-three upon the ground, seven dead and sixteen badly wounded--seven fatally.  We had three killed and seven wounded, most of them slightly, and I lost my favorite horse.  After the fight I ordered up the wagons, we loaded our dead and wounded, and the wounded Mexicans, into them, returned to camp, and reported to Colonel Collins (who was no friend of mine).</P>
189.sgm:<P>The affair caused a great commotion in camp.  Colonel Collins ordered me under arrest for acts of war in time of peace, and I demanded to be taken before the commanding-general (Patterson).  On inquiry, among the wounded Mexicans was found a lieutenant, who acknowledged that they had arranged to attack the camp and capture the stock.  After a full hearing, the general dismissed the charge, highly complimented me, and said he wished they had more like me.  And this is what <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER LVI.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>A SEA VOYAGE TO SANTA BARBARA.</P>
189.sgm:<P>IN a previous chapter I have incidentally referred to a homeward trip from Los Angeles, through the San Joaquin Valley, by rail.  In this I will give a short sketch of my journey thither, down the coast.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I left Alamdea, November 25, 1883, and took passage on the steamer <HI REND="italics">Ancon</HI>
189.sgm:, which sailed at nine o'clock in the morning, with a sharp wind from the northwest.  Contrary to our expectations, as we passed through the Golden Gate the water was without a ripple, but when fairly at sea, the wind being N.N.W., the vessel was thrown into the trough of a long and heavy swell.  Erelong I saw the most vivacious and happy faces blanch, while a general movement on deck led me to conclude that all the passengers excepting myself had near and dear acquaintances on board; for I saw ladies and gentlemen rushing into each other's arms.  Still I noticed that the embraces bestowed had nothing of tenderness or affection, since they generally fled from the embrace of the first to the next they met.  I noticed, too, that youth and age embraced each other alike as lovers, while I remained a melancholy spectator of the scene, burning tears fast running down my face because no one addressed me.  On reflection, I was consoled by the discovery that I was on the windward side; hence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>The night was rough, but the morning was smooth and fair.  The wind and waves had subsided and as general settlements seemed to have been obtained, all went "merry as a marriage bell."  Of course we kept near the coast, which was rough and generally precipitous, while the valleys along the coast lay back of a bluff range, with small outlets to the shore.  I found my notions of the bay and town of Monterey far from correct.  The bay makes a deep, horseshoe-like indentation into the land.  The town, instead of being at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>445</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>From San Francisco to point concepcion, our course is nearly south; at that point we turn directly east, and on that course we reach Santa Barbara, at which place we found ourselves on the second day out at eight o'clock in the evening.  Before speaking of this place, I must refer to a very strange phenomenon which occurred at sunset, before our arrival.  As thousands have heretofore written of the lovely sunsets at sea, the subject having been handled by wit, genius, and ability, in colors more than the sun itself ever presented, I shall not, at this late day, enter the arena and compete for the prize.  And though it is of a sunset at sea that I speak, it is not the bare sight of seeing it lave its brilliant disk in the briny wave.</P>
189.sgm:<P>I heard an exclamation from one of the passengers:  "Oh! look at the sun."  I turned my eyes to the west, where a huge, bright golden block presented itself.  It was perfectly square, and seemed to be about three feet across, and not more than ten minutes above the water.  As I was watching and marveling at the strange appearance of the scene, the base of the perpendicular seemed stationary, while the upper portion commenced sinking until it presented the appearance of a large cheese, with the edge towards us.  The lower portion or base then began to sink, while the upper portion appeared stationary till it formed the most perfect picture of a mammoth wash-bowl, with its broad top and graceful curving in and usual swell of the bowl, while there was the usual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>As before stated, the coast at Santa Barbara runs nearly east and west.  The town is situated upon a channel which separates the mainland from the four islands that lie immediately north of the place some twenty miles distant.  These islands seem to form almost a continuous belt, running nearly parallel with the mainland, thus breaking, in a great degree, the fury of southern storms.  The town spreads out over the mouth of the valley, where it reaches the ocean, extending up the valley about two miles.  I should think the ground rises, from the ocean to the upper end of the town, about one hundred feet.  The town is a good deal scattered, covering an area usually occupied by a city of 10,000 inhabitants, while it had at that time less than 5,000.  What is peculiar is that the valley is not situated on any stream emptying into the ocean, and the town is watered from Mission Can&tilde;on, the only water upon which the inhabitants rely for fire or domestic uses; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>447</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>Yes, Santa Barbara is a pretty place; but she is a parasite, not living upon any innate resources of her own, but upon foreign substance.  It will ever be the stopping-place of the invalid and the temporary home of the pleasure-seeker, while the denizens of the town will take good care that sojourners pay for all they get.  But, on the whole, I think that in case one wants a holiday, there is no lovelier place to take it than in Santa Barbara.  As to the inhabitants, they are about one-third native Californians, wholly strangers to energy or progress, still living as their fathers lived sixty years ago.  The Arlington Hotel is the finest and, in my opinion, the best kept of any on the coast.</P>
189.sgm:<P>The valley in which Santa Barbara is situated is small, not more than eighteen miles long, with an average bredth of from two to two and one-fourth miles.  I drove out to the place of my old friend Sherman Stowe, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>448</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P>I remained in Santa Barbara four days, leaving on December 1st for Santa Monica, and thence by rail to Los Angeles, returning home by the Southern Pacific Railroad route.</P>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>POEMS.<LB>BY COLONEL L. A. NORTON.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TO MISS MINNIE MOLLOY, SANTA ROSA.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I AM thinking of thee, dear Minnie,<LB>I am thinking of thee now,<LB>While thou art gently sleeping,<LB>With a calm and cloudless brow;<LB>For 'tis noon of night, dear Minnie,<LB>And the fleecy clouds do fly,<LB>Shown by the moon's uncertain light,<LB>Like some giant of the sky,<LB>With just enough of borrowed light<LB>Sweetly resting on the plain,<LB>To change each shadow to a sprite<LB>To people this earth again.<LB>Among these sylphs I seem to see<LB>Little Minnie, bright and fair,<LB>With her large and lustrous eyes,<LB>And her light-brown braids of hair.<LB>Full well I know 'tis fancy all,<LB>Yet is it not sweet to feel<LB>That fancy can somewhat supply<LB>What we so much wish was real?<LB>So sleep, dear Minnie, gently sleep,<LB>With no shade upon thy brow.<LB>There is one sentinel on his beat<LB>Who is thinking of thee now.</HI>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TO MY WIFE.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I AM thinking of thee, dear Emma,<LB>Alone thinking of thee;<LB>While you in your home are waiting,<LB>And are watching for me.<LB>You will claim it was a weakness,<LB>That I should never know;<LB>But, my dear, it is a weakness<LB>I am proud to have you show.<LB>You are never demonstrative,<LB>Or at least so you would seem,<LB>But all through your seeming coldness,<LB>I see affections gleam.<LB>So now, down life's path together,<LB>We hand in hand will roam,<LB>Until time and age shall call us<LB>To dark oblivion's home.<LB>But until we rest together,<LB>We'll make the best of life,<LB>Though I make a rough old husband,<LB>You are a loving wife.</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TO MARY.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">MARY, I am now alone;<LB>The midnight hour has long since flown,<LB>Yet visions haunt my sleepless mind,<LB>In search of what I cannot find.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Oh, vain the search; the efforts vain;<LB>The prize I seek, I cannot gain;<LB>For that I've sacrificed my rest,<LB>And climbed the rugged mountain's breast.<LB>I've stemmed the stream where torrents roll,<LB>A terror to the bravest soul;<LB>Panuca's course I've traced alone,<LB>Where cities were long since o'ergrown<LB>With a dense growth of chaparral,<LB>Without a tongue their fate to tell;<LB>Where panthers crouch and tigers growl;<LB>Where leopards hide and lions howl;<LB>Tarantulas, whose fatal sting<LB>On man and beast destruction bring--<LB>I've faced death in a thousand forms,<LB>Mid battle's glare and frightful storms.<LB>I've floated on the ocean's wave<LB>When every surge my breast would lave;<LB>From stranded ship I've sought the land<LB>Where earthquakes shook the very sand.<LB>From battle-field I bear the scars<LB>Those dealt me by the sons of Mars,<LB>And all for what?  Why did I roam?<LB>To trace each clime, why leave my home?<LB>For happiness! but ah; to me<LB>How transient must that name e'er be;<LB>While hopeless here I journey on,<LB>I feel, I know, I am alone.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Who see me smile can never know<LB>The yet unfathomed depths of woe,<LB>The anguish of this bitter strife<LB>That rends my soul and poisons life.<LB>For happier lots that have been cast,<LB>They cannot feel the withering blast<LB>That breaks my heart, that kills my frame,<LB>And makes me loathe my very name!<LB>But would to God my heart were steel,<LB>To oppose the bitter pangs I feel,<LB>And check the sigh that e'en would start<LB>They very cords that bind my heart.<LB>To one on earth the power is given<LB>To make this hell eternal heaven;<LB>If she would now but smile on me,<LB>And bid me henceforth happy be!</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>RESPECTFULLY ADDRESSED TO ONE OF THE AMERICAN OFFICERS IN MEXICO.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">"THIS Northern girl, I fear her not,<LB>Though brave and fair thou art;<LB>My shadow stands as sentinel<LB>To my loved captain's heart.<LB>"That guarded palace mocks thy siege,<LB>Its gates thou canst not win;<LB>Go sighning round his home at night,<LB>But dare not enter in!</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">"He told me you were beautiful,<LB>But I am well content;<LB>My form alone has charms for him,--<LB>He swore it when he went.<LB>"Let welcome, in its softest tones,<LB>Its dearest secret tell,<LB>Such welcome e'en cannot efface<LB>The sound of my farewell."<LB>Thus spoke Amelia, sitting lone<LB>On Mexico's wild shore;<LB>The foaming waves of that wide gulf<LB>Her dark eye traveled o'er.<LB>She spoke it with a steadfast trust--<LB>Oh! trust that vain must prove;<LB>She spoke it with the curling lip<LB>Of proud, triumphant love.<LB>Poor girl! at that same sunset hour,<LB>In the distant Northern land,<LB>The captain knelt and pressed his lips<LB>On a white, bejeweled hand,<LB>Then clasped the lady in his arms--<LB>His vows of yore forgot;<LB>His heart withdrew itself from hers,<LB>But Amelia knew it not.</HI>
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189.sgm:<HEAD>TO MY TRUEST AND BEST FRIEND.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">HOW sweet it is for us to know<LB>That there are hearts that burn<LB>With love for us, where'er we go,<LB>And sigh for our return.<LB>Then, though the world is cold and drear,<LB>And gives the bosom pain,<LB>We've but to turn to scenes more dear,<LB>And all is bright again.<LB>But sad must be the home of those<LB>Condemned to live alone,<LB>With none to cheer amid life's woes,<LB>And none to call their own.<LB>No season sweet of joy doth come<LB>To shed its fragrance there;<LB>No sunshine to disperse the gloom<LB>That broods a dark despair.<LB>The heart can ne'er be truly blest<LB>Unless it can recline<LB>On some congenial, faithful breast,<LB>Where love's sweet tendrils twine.<LB>Then we can brook life's many ills,<LB>Its sorrow and its woe,<LB>For love its soothing balm distils<LB>To cheer us while below.</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TO A. C. BARRY, ESQ.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">ADIEU, dearest friend!  I must bid you adieu.<LB>I cannot, I will not, ask you longer to stay.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Remember there's one friend that ever is true,<LB>And his heart is with you, wherever you stray.<LB>With steps fast receding, when thy native shore,<LB>Like some longed-for haven, shall burst on thy view,<LB>When thy heart it shall throb like the cataract's roar,<LB>To again greet thy friends that are constant and true,<LB>Where beauty will smile and where maidens will love,<LB>Where a fond mother will greet her wandering boy,<LB>Where sounds that are soft as the coo-cooing dove<LB>Will start tears of regret that will dampen the joy,<LB>Thy heart will then heave for a friend that's not there,<LB>With a pang that no vulgar affection can feel;<LB>A friend that thy weal or thy woe would fain share,<LB>And a friend that loves thee with woman-like zeal.<LB>Though barren and cold is the world without thee,<LB>I can ask thee, in justice, no longer to stay.<LB>But with thee, my friend, my heart ever shall be,<LB>To blend with thy visions by night or by day.<LB>May blessings of Deity rest on thy head,<LB>To shield thee from sickness, harm, death, and the grave.<LB>May Heaven combine to strengthen life's thread,<LB>To shield thee, dear friend, from the merciless wave.</HI>
189.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>BLACK EYES.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">SOME worship a brow that is ever serene,<LB>Like the lifeless sky of a painted scene,<LB>Where the sunshine sleeps and the clouds are still,<LB>Just as calmly as gushes the mountain rill.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">There are hearts that can worship the soft, pale dye,<LB>And passionless hue of a tame, blue eye;<LB>But such eyes to me are too patient, too true;<LB>I love not their sleepy, inanimate hue.<LB>But give me the glance with the soul in its rays,<LB>An eye that can flash, and a brow that can blaze.<LB>For one, my dear girl, is the still, smooth lake,<LB>That no winds can ruffle and no storms can shake;<LB>The other, the foam of the cataract's dash,<LB>The darker the water, the brighter the flash.</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>TO THE ONE FOR WHOM IT WAS INTENDED.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">SOME are charmed with the view and passionate hue<LB>Of a dark and rolling eye,<LB>But mine is the charm, without fear or alarm,<LB>Where all is calm as a summer sky.<LB>As deep as the sea, let that eye be to me,<LB>Then I know the affection is true;<LB>I can read in that face, displeasure or grace,<LB>When lit up by an eye of blue.<LB>If you wish to disclose your sorrows or woes<LB>To friends that are constant and true,<LB>Take the clear open brow, requesting no vow,<LB>That's lit up with an eye of blue.<LB>And if sympathy's tear should ever appear,<LB>You'll then take my statement as true;<LB>Nines times out of ten, be it ladies or men,<LB>'Twill be found in an eye of blue.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Yet 'tis not the eye that can whimper or cry,<LB>When danger approaches in view,<LB>But as firm as the arch, sustaining time's march,<LB>The eye of unfaltering blue.<LB>An eye that is blue, a heart that is true,<LB>Shall hence be the drift of my dream;<LB>And a lady most fair with lightish brown hair,<LB>In song shall henceforth be my theme.</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LINES TO MRS. ELIZABETH HALE.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">THIS rose to me is passing fair,<LB>Fresh from the donor's hand;<LB>Its fragrance floats as rich and rare<LB>As any in the land.<LB>Upon the plain, the rose we hail,<LB>The daisies on the mount,<LB>We pluck the lily from the vale,<LB>The cresses from the fount.<LB>The glory of the morning fair,<LB>First hails us when we wake,<LB>We're greeted by the violets rare,<LB>As morning walks we take.<LB>And thus we find our path is spread<LB>With sweetness and perfume,<LB>And odors of the flowerets shed<LB>Throughout the month of June.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">But when they fade, the withered stalk<LB>Is shaken by each blast,<LB>Each time enfeebled by the shock,<LB>In winter sinks at last.<LB>An emblem this of man's sad fate,<LB>A floweret here below;<LB>In spring he blooms with joy elate,<LB>And sinks in winter's snow.<LB>The rose that blooms upon his cheek<LB>Will wither and decay,<LB>When the fond pleasures that we seek<LB>By magic fade away.<LB>It bends the stalk in silent gloom,<LB>All withered by the blast,<LB>And, like the flower, cut down at noon,<LB>At evening's shade 'tis passed.<LB>Unlike the rose, there's some below<LB>When earthly beauties fade,<LB>Sweeter perfumes around them throw,<LB>Approaching evening shade.<LB>And when the stalk is bleak and bare,<LB>Shook by winter of age,<LB>A bright halo will hover there,<LB>That mocks to us the sage.<LB>The word, with magic in its charms,<LB>That bids the soul aspire,<LB>Snatches a brand from nature's arms,<LB>To light the poet's fire.</HI>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MIDNIGHT AND THE GRAVE.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">THE lover's lute is hushed and still,<LB>The moon has sought the western hill,<LB>The breeze now holds its balmy breath,<LB>All silent as the cells of death.<LB>The nightingale, whose ceaseless note<LB>Would seem to rend his tiny throat,<LB>Now for a moment's hushed and still;<LB>You scarce can hear the murmuring rill.<LB>The dewdrop on the violet's brow<LB>Would seem devoutly waiting now,<LB>As if its fall upon the ground<LB>Might break the silence thus profound;<LB>Where midnight, with dark pinions spread<LB>Her gloom o'er living and o'er dead--<LB>A gloom that all erelong must feel,<LB>Humanity's eternal seal;<LB>Where innocence in silence sleeps,<LB>Where guilt no more its vigils keeps,<LB>Where toil and strife will be at rest,<LB>Where peace will calm the troubled breast,<LB>And where the high and low shall be<LB>Forever on equality.<LB>There glitt'ring wealth and boasted fame<LB>Shall, cank'ring, lose their worthless name,<LB>By mouldering time beneath the sod,<LB>And all true merit go to God.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>On my return from Mexico at the close of the war, our command was mustered out of service at Alton, Illinois; but I was compelled to remain there a few days <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>461</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">One single leaf I send to thee,<LB>Of what in jest you threw at me.<LB>But when ten years have passed and flown,<LB>I'll then return to thee thy own.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>My life for the ensuing ten years was adventurous and somewhat roving; but I retained the flower, and the expiration of the time found me in California, whence I returned it with the following lines:--</P>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Here is thy flower, though rudely pressed<LB>'Tis as I clasped it to my breast.<LB>And, like some sentinel at his post,<LB>For ten long years I've guarded close<LB>This little talisman of thine,<LB>That I would fain have claimed as mine,<LB>But would not 'vantage by my wrongs--<LB>To thee and thine the pledge belongs;<LB><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>462</CONTROLPGNO>
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189.sgm:And when I raised it from the dust,<LB>I only held the flow'r in trust.<LB>But oh! how faded is the flower,<LB>Compared with what it was that hour<LB>When I received it at thy hand,<LB>And bore it to this distant land.<LB>Yet not more faded than the one<LB>That bore it from its native home;<LB>For each the burning deserts passed,<LB>And each has felt the mountain's blast;<LB>Together bound and ever one,<LB>We both have felt a tropic sun;<LB>Together we have sallied forth<LB>To frozen regions of the North;<LB>Together in the forest wild,<LB>Where civil life had never smiled,<LB>We've rested from our toil and care--<LB>Our sentinel the grizzly bear.<LB>Thus, guarding it as my own life,<LB>I've borne it through this world of strife<LB>Until, at last, the hour has come<LB>To send the little traveler home.<LB>And when its pallid form you view,<LB>Remember that my words were true.<LB>Although the pledge in jest was given<LB>Its place of register was Heaven.<LB>And now one boon I ask alone,<LB>That this you'll guard as I have done;<LB>And when you view its petals fair,<LB>For its poor guardian breathe one prayer.<LB>This from your friend and servant true.<LB>So, lady fair, a long adieu.</HI>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE SYLPHIDE.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">ALL hail to thee, sylphide, fair queen of the mountain;<LB>Let angels thy dew-gleaming footsteps sustain,<LB>Whose impress a shadow ne'er made on the fountain,<LB>Whose footfall no imprint e'er left on the plain.<LB>Seraphic in form, and surpassing in beauty,<LB>Her sex are all pigmies in honor and worth,<LB>So constant in love, in affection and duty,<LB>Earth never before to such graces gave birth.<LB>But why so dejected, my day-star of glory?<LB>Oh! why art thou doomed thus to sigh when alone,<LB>While pensively gazing on mountain-tops hoary,<LB>Or lulled to repose by the rill's mellow tone?<LB>Have the hopes of thy youth all like angels departed<LB>And left thee to mourn the deep blight on thy soul?<LB>Has fortune thy fond expectations deserted,<LB>O'er which now nor beauty nor charms hold control?<LB>Or by destiny doomed to still deeper dejection,<LB>By stern, unrelenting fate's crushing decree,<LB>That places a barrier between thy affection<LB>And the one of all others the dearest to thee?<LB>If so, I can sympathize with thy condition,<LB>Although my poor heart has long since ceased to love;<LB>To soothe the afflicted of earth is my mission--<LB>A delegate sent from the high court above.<LB>So look upon me as a friend and a brother;<LB>Believe me that such I shall ever remain.<LB>In truth, you may say we have not the same mother,<LB>Yet friendship's kind impulse is warming each vein.</HI>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ODE TO THE RT. REV. J. K. BARRY.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">WAFT, ye winds, some fitting strain<LB>From mountain crest, from hill or plain,<LB>His praise to sing who here has come,<LB>And left his family and home,<LB>And crossed the deep where billows roar,<LB>Then sought the California shore.<LB>Were it for gold he crossed the main<LB>I should not write this feeble strain.<LB>But how delightful 'tis to feel<LB>That one from love and Christian zeal<LB>Should cross the deep where billows roll,<LB>His only gain, the immortal soul.<LB>Now in the halls that long have rung<LB>To Bacchanalian's thickened tongue,<LB>By him, that sacred truth is taught,<LB>That souls by Jesus' blood were bought.<LB>He labors hard, he's labored long,<LB>And in the cause is waxing strong;<LB>But where are Zion's sons to aid?<LB>Have they not down the cold stream strayed?<LB>Has not that filthy lucre, gold,<LB>Made many a Christian heart grow cold?<LB>But bid them listen to thy call,<LB>And sound the trump from Zion's wall.<LB>And when thy limbs enfeebled grow,<LB>From godly labors here below,<LB>May peace and quiet close thy eyes,<LB>And angels bear thee to the skies,</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Where brighter gold than mortals coin<LB>Shall in thy crown of glory shine!<LB>A passport, in the halls above,<LB>To the eternal throne of love.</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MONTEGA'S ADIEU TO THE FOX.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">ADIEU to this valley--the sweetest on earth,<LB>Adieu to the ashes that first gave me birth,<LB>Adieu to the Fox, with her green shaded shore,<LB>For thy crystal waves I shall visit no more.<LB>Adieu to the islands that dot thy bright strand,<LB>Adieu to thy scenery so varied and grand.<LB>Though the white man may dot the country around,<LB>And cities may rise on my old hunting-ground,<LB>Where the red man sported in innocent glee,<LB>The breeze of the morning ne'er floated more free.<LB>Their day-dreams were happy, their visions were bright,<LB>And in their rude shelter their slumbers were light;<LB>But where's now the odor of wild rose perfume,<LB>That swept o'er the plain in the bright month of June?<LB>Now adieu to that council hearth ruined and cold,<LB>Where burned the war-fire of the Fox chieftain bold.<LB>Adieu to the graves of our fathers who've fled,--<LB>We would not recall them again from the dead,<LB>To witness the sorrows of those that are left;<LB>Our kindred, our country, of all we're bereft.<LB>Who pities the red man?--his rights are unknown,<LB>He wanders dejected--no kindred nor home.<LB>The white man knows naught of his sorrows nor pain,<LB>And the son of the forest scorns to complain;</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">For soon I will pass o'er that river so bright,<LB>That I have surveyed in the visions of night,<LB>Where pale-faces' knives are no longer than mine.<LB>To fight the great battle all red men combine;<LB>Montega will join them, with quiver and bow,<LB>To the land of the spirits I'm anxious to go.</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LINES</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">OH! list, ye nymphs of grace divine<LB>Not to an idle tale,<LB>But list ye to this lay of mine,<LB>As borne thee on the gale.<LB>I speak to thee of beauties rare,<LB>Not faded yet by time,<LB>And beauties that you cannot share,<LB>Or I'd be claiming mine.<LB>Another claims that lovely cheek,<LB>Where richest crimsons flow,<LB>And eyes that kindness doth bespeak,<LB>A bosom white as snow.<LB>Of gentle mien, of graceful form,<LB>And manners much refined,<LB>To grace the fate for which you're born,<LB>So, Mary, be resigned.<LB>The day it came, the die was cast,<LB>Thy fortune it was made;<LB>So, mourn you not for scenes now past,<LB>Nor fortune yet upbraid.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">It was yourself that played the game,<LB>And sealed it with a <HI REND="italics">smack</HI>
189.sgm:,<LB>And, as you did not like your name,<LB>You changed it into <HI REND="italics">Mack</HI>
189.sgm:.<LB>So, Mary, now be kind and true<LB>Unto the choice you've made,<LB>And when these lines you come to view,<LB>Just think on what I've said.<LB>Whilst passing down life's eventide,<LB>We'll see the heads of flax,<LB>And, asking what we have espied,<LB>You'll say, They're little <HI REND="italics">Macks</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ON SLANDER.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I'M seated by the babbling brook<LB>To read a page from nature's book,<LB>And trace each evil from its birth,<LB>That can afflict this mortal earth;<LB>And in their various stages trace<LB>Which most affects the human race.<LB>First in my catalogue I'll bring<LB>What mankind deems the greatest sin--<LB>He who has slain his fellow-man--<LB>Inhuman brute! him let us scan.<LB>He's taken that which God has given,<LB>And robb'd earth of a gift from Heav'n.<LB>But one received the fatal thrust;<LB>But one heart mingled with the dust.<LB>This crime is known as <HI REND="italics">mal in se</HI>
189.sgm:,<LB>So <HI REND="italics">mal in factum</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Next jealousy, with eye of green,<LB>Within my catalogue is seen;<LB>It binds the sense, makes man a slave,<LB>And is more cruel than the grave.<LB>A family circle feels the sting,<LB>And yields to that despotic king.<LB>But last of all, and worse I claim,<LB>Is slander.  Oh, that cruel name;<LB>Its poisonous breath pervades the land.<LB>It chills the heart, benumbs the hand;<LB>Its fatal fang and poisonous breath<LB>Are to be dreaded more than death.<LB>It will its horrid form intrude<LB>'Mid circles gay or solitude.<LB>The maiden's fame lost in a day,<LB>Nor will it spare the matron gray;<LB>For which they must a by-word lay,<LB>From youth till resurrection day.<LB>The hand that would donate most free<LB>Is struck down by this calumny.<LB>I ask you one and all to tell<LB>Which crime is most deserving hell?</HI>
189.sgm:<P>LEONATUS.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LINES RESPECTFULLY ADDRESSED TO --.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I WISH the world to understand<LB>And they who raise opposing hand<LB>Shall meet my lasting frown.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">A friend that is not my friend's friend,<LB>He scarcely can be mine,<LB>And he who would my friend offend,<LB>Our friendship can't combine.<LB>Some wish to choose for me my friends,<LB>Say who are fit and true;<LB>But this will never suit my ends,<LB>No; this will never do.<LB>Because I will not sell a friend,<LB>Let him be high or low;<LB>To whom I shall my hand extend,<LB>I am the one to know.<LB>Perhaps a friend of worth to me<LB>May be of different grade,<LB>By other friends may seem to be<LB>A dead weight on me laid,<LB>Although that friend may still be true,<LB>With heart as pure as snow:<LB>Shall I discard him to please you?<LB>I proudly answer, No.<LB>But when I see a want of worth,<LB>My confidence betrayed,<LB>I then rebuke the erring earth,<LB>Withdraw all pledges made.<LB>For if my dog should chance to be<LB>By all my friends despised,<LB>My dog my only friend should be--<LB>The rest all sacrificed.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>THE WILL OF LEONATUS.<LB>I DIP my quill to write my will,<LB>As slander has me slain.<LB>Let this attest my last bequest<LB>Is made with feeble frame.<LB>By wish inclined, and strong in mind,<LB>My will I thus have planned:<LB>Bequeath and give to those that live<LB>Within this Western land,<LB>Good-will to all, both great and small,<LB>For this they surely need;<LB>And love I'll add--they want it bad--<LB>So now let me proceed.<LB>A patent plan I'll give to man<LB>For saving of his lungs--<LB>When scandal rolls, let honest souls<LB>Just halter-break their tongues.<LB>And here's a sword that e'er will guard<LB>All those who choose to wield,--<LB>'Tis for the youth, its name is Truth.<LB>To fend, you need no shield,<LB>For it will slay or so dismay<LB>Each falsehood, as it flies,<LB>That ere you know you've dealt a blow--<LB>The foe before you lies.<LB>A measure small I'll give to all,<LB>A little balance scale,<LB>Justice its name, from whence it came,<LB>To tell you I shall fail.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">To be sincere, I hold it dear,<LB>And make a small reserve,<LB>But feel inclined to ease my mind<LB>By giving who deserve.<LB>There's one gem more I hold in store.<LB>It is so rich and rare<LB>I do intend to recommend<LB>That ladies take a share.<LB>You wait to see what it can be--<LB>Charity is the name.<LB>If each will share the gem to wear,<LB>You'll save each other's fame.<LB>If this small store is rightly wore<LB>Within the human breast,<LB>This bitter strife would lose its life,<LB>And man would find a rest.<LB>In witness here that I'm sincere,<LB>My name is written thus,<LB>My usual hand I still command,</HI>
189.sgm:<LB><HSEP>0L. A. LEONATUS.</P>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>>WRITTEN ON THE SUMMIT OF FITCH MOUNTAIN WHILE SITTING ON AN ANT-HILL.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">LITTLE ant, come, tell me why<LB>Thou hast built thy home so high;<LB>These high cliffs why didst thou scale<LB>And leave the warm and pleasant vale?<LB>Has the same God that gave thee breath<LB>Inspired in thee the thoughts of death,</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Like man, creation's lord while here,<LB>And fitted for another sphere?<LB>Like his, doth thy ambition rise,<LB>To endless life beyond the skies?<LB>And is this mound, on which I've trod,<LB>A temple of the living God?<LB>And didst thou choose this mountain high<LB>To bring thy worship near the sky?<LB>And didst thou tread, as Moses trod,<LB>With priestly step, the mount of God?<LB>Methinks I hear the answer, "Yes;<LB>As creatures we could do no less<LB>Than offer from this lofty shrine<LB>To our Creator praise divine."<LB>If so, I'll heed thy warm appeal;<LB>I reverence and respect thy zeal,<LB>And peaceful leave thy busy home<LB>Wiser than ere I hence had come,<LB>In knowing that beneath my feet<LB>Worshiping congregations meet,<LB>Serving with thought sublime, as we,<LB>In their own way, the Deity.</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A DREAM.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">MY drooping lids o'erhung by care,<LB>I fell asleep whilst in my chair.<LB>I dreamed as man has seldom dreamed,<LB>Was omnipresent, as it seemed.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">And backward rolled the wheels of time<LB>To early Asia's sunny clime.<LB>I stood by Moses, side by side,<LB>And saw the visions he espied.<LB>In fancy then I saw the stroke<LB>That in his wrath the tablets broke;<LB>Though vexed was he, it made me laugh<LB>To see poor Aaron's golden calf.<LB>I stood upon the Red Sea coast,<LB>There saw the tide sweep Egypt's host.<LB>I saw Alexander's archer train<LB>Take the rock Ardes of the plain.<LB>I next saw the immortal birth<LB>Of the Messiah come to earth;<LB>I saw him, when a babe, indeed,<LB>He seemed the nurse's aid to need.<LB>Whilst in his youth I passed that way,<LB>Saw parchments there before him lay;<LB>I saw China's Confucius' name<LB>Inscribed upon the parchments plain.<LB>I read in those the source and fount<LB>Of Christ's great sermon on the mount;<LB>A doctrine taught in days of yore<LB>By Chinese prince long years before.<LB>I traced him through this lower clay,<LB>And watched each mesmeric display;<LB>I saw him manlike meet his doom,<LB>And godlike rise from Joseph's tomb.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I knew that I was not deceived;<LB>Unlike the Jews, I then believed.<LB>I saw his doctrines then advance<LB>From bloody Rome to skeptic France.<LB>With Bible doctrine it was hurled<LB>To every nation of the world,<LB>Where men prepar'd all to receive,<LB>Need only hear it to believe.<LB>Soon I beheld another scene,<LB>That changed the aspect of my dream;<LB>From Ishmael there sprung a light<LB>That even pierced Arabia's night.<LB>I saw a caravan depart,<LB>Journey'd with it to Smyrna's mart;<LB>I saw one sit beneath yew<LB>That by the way for ages grew.<LB>But the old tree had quite decayed,<LB>Refused to man or beast its shade;<LB>But when great Allah sat him there,<LB>The tree spread forth with foliage fair.<LB>The prophet then the desert bless'd,<LB>As many Arabs will attest,<LB>And a hardened wretch was I<LB>Not to believe in great Allah.<LB>But when I saw him raise his brand,<LB>Defeat his foes by blowing sand;<LB>As well as illustrations given<LB>Of midnight trips to seventh heaven;</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">And when I saw the murderous snare,<LB>And saw the holy prophet share<LB>The poisoned meat, that harmed him not,<LB>Though others to the grave it brought,<LB>A convert to his faith was I,<LB>And shouted for the great Allah.<LB>I saw him bend each tot'ring shrine,<LB>I saw him march to Palestine.<LB>Against the Turks he took the field,<LB>I saw Constantinople yield,--<LB>Where'er Mahomet stretched his hand,<LB>The nations fell at his command,<LB>And scepters they were worthless then,<LB>For all became good Musselmen,<LB>And when his frame by death was bound,<LB>He could not rest upon the ground.<LB>His coffin sought the ceiling high,<LB>And would have flown into the sky,<LB>But no attraction called it forth<LB>To leave behind its native earth.<LB>Content with man, his power to show,<LB>Mahomet wisely stayed below,<LB>And left with us his mighty shade,<LB>His friends to soothe and doctrines aid.<LB>'Twas then I saw a star arise<LB>Beyond the sea in western skies;<LB>I asked permission then to go<LB>See what that satellite would show.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The land I saw was far away;<LB>I read its name--AMERICA--<LB>And when I reached the distant ground,<LB>I heard a low, unearthly sound.<LB>In accents soft, but very clear,<LB>It came unto my startled ear,<LB>"The book of Mormon has been found,<LB>And excavated from the ground.<LB>"Great Joseph Smith, it is decreed,<LB>The only man the book shall read."<LB>And Joseph to his task then went,<LB>A prophet he, in pity sent.<LB>Joseph the words of Mormon told,<LB>From hieroglyphics wrought in gold;<LB>But, oh! the wicked heart of man,<LB>They scoffed at Mormon and his plan.<LB>Joseph his sword, like Allah, drew,<LB>And mustered all the Mormon crew.<LB>Rushed forth to combat, sword in hand--<LB>Alas, they lacked Arabia's sand.<LB>And these brave, warlike Mormon sons<LB>Were driven out by Missourians;<LB>Then Illinois, that bloody State,<LB>To Mormon's prophet owed a hate.<LB>And it was in these wicked lands<LB>That Joseph healed with righteous hands,<LB>Or so his twelve apostles said--<LB>I, by their word, was convert made.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">But soon these wicked men conspired,<LB>Their minds with indignation fired,<LB>When they in secret laid their plan,<LB>Went forth and slew this holy man.<LB>By his death groans I was awoke;<LB>My very frame in terror shook;<LB>I thought upon the vision past;<LB>I conn'd it o'er from first to last.<LB>I scann'd at length our Christian views,<LB>I turned me back to skeptic Jews,<LB>I traced Mahomet from his birth,<LB>Throughout his wild career on earth.<LB>On Mormon's book I some time thought,<LB>And viewed the changes it had wrougth,<LB>And asked myself, as well as you,<LB>Which of these creeds, if any's true.<LB>As they will show to men of sense,<LB>Their proof's internal evidence;<LB>That all are right, these proofs will show.<LB>If all are right, why differ so?</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A DIALOGUE BETWEEN THE HEAD AND HEART, AS TO WHICH HAD THE STRONGER CLAIMS UPON THE SOUL.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">A STRANGE dispute arose one day,<LB>Or so I've heard old people say;<LB>Between the heart and head the strife,<LB>The fount of reason and of life,</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">As to which had the strongest claim<LB>Upon the soul, the heart or brain.<LB>The heart now vindicates his cause,<LB>By logic backed, and nature's laws.<LB>HEART.<LB>I claim the soul of man is thought,<LB>And that is by pulsation wrought;<LB>The blood is oxidized by me,<LB>And 'genders thought, as you may see.<LB>And in addition to this plea,<LB>All sacred history doth agree;<LB>That the heart is good or evil,<LB>Works for God, or for the devil.<LB>HEAD.<LB>To your first position I'll concede,<LB>In acquiescence to your creed,<LB>That the immortal mind's the soul,<LB>That governs and that guides the whole.<LB>I further grant what you maintain,<LB>To wit, the blood assists the brain;<LB>But when you claim the heart alone<LB>Doth set King Reason on his throne,<LB>I will take issue with you there,<LB>And try to shew by reason fair,<LB>That blood is but a single spring,<LB>That doth the brain to action bring;<LB>And, by its convolutions wrought,<LB>The brain itself engenders thought.<LB>And to maintain the grounds I take,<LB>A small experiment I'll make:</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Detach intellect from the brain,<LB>And let the animal remain;<LB>Then let the blood as usual rush,<LB>With warm and animating gush,<LB>Through all the chambers of the brain,<LB>When back it will return again;<LB>And when it has its functions wrought,<LB>I ask, Will it engender thought?<LB>Decide that point before I go.<LB>The answer's now resounding, No!<LB>Then in this argument you'll find<LB>That blood cannot engender mind.<LB>Regarding what the Scriptures state,<LB>Those records of more ancient date,<LB>And also wrote on the best plan<LB>That could reveal the truth to man;<LB>The heart being the seat of life,<LB>Man thought it, too, the seat of strife;<LB>And that mankind might but believe,<LB>Their teachers would not undeceive;<LB>But led them on as linguists would,<LB>By language that they understood.<LB>HEART.<LB>Your reasons are so wisely chose,<LB>I hardly know how to oppose;<LB>And I'll admit what you maintain,<LB>That the blood works upon the brain,<LB>As farmers work the sterile soil,<LB>That yields its fruit, but with his toil;<LB>And, as experiments you've brought<LB>To prove that brain produces thought,</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I'll offer one that will suffice<LB>To show where that great lever lies.<LB>I'll stay the blood in the left lung,<LB>And let the venous current run,<LB>Unoxidized, upon the brain,<LB>And there behold the creature's pain;<LB>Witness, yourself, his dying groan,<LB>And see Reason's deserted throne!<LB>As in this dying state he lies,<LB>The blood again I'll oxidize;<LB>Now Reason to his seat is brought,<LB>And Reason only lives by thought!<LB>HEAD.<LB>Indulging in such wanton strife,<LB>I'll own you might destroy life.<LB>By pouring a destructive flood<LB>Of grosser matter with the blood<LB>Upon the unresisting brain,<LB>It must create disorder, pain,<LB>And drive Thought from his dwelling-place,<LB>To seek a rest in open space.<LB>But by your power to inundate,<LB>That will not prove you can create;<LB>For the tornado sweeps the plain<LB>Without power to restore again.<LB>When the infuriated blast<LB>Assails the ship and springs the mast,<LB>It sinks upon the Ocean's breast,<LB>Its fury spent, and it must rest<LB>Without the power or strength to aid<LB>To destined port the wreck it made.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">But I'm not competent, I find,<LB>To argue causes for the mind;<LB>I'll own myself a blundering elf,<LB>And leave the cause with Thought himself.<LB>THOUGHT.<LB>I've listened to your pleas at length,<LB>Their ingenuity and strength;<LB>And I must say I feel some pride<LB>In being called on to decide.<LB>And I shall thus decide the strife,--<LB>The Heart's the sire, the Head's the wife.<LB>For me, 'tis plain you both have toiled;<LB>I own myself to be your child;<LB>And I am much inclined to see<LB>You both unite in harmony.<LB>But you're are mistaken in your creed--<LB>A point on which you both agreed--<LB>You grant me superhuman power,<LB>That I can only claim as <HI REND="italics">dower</HI>
189.sgm:.<LB>I feel myself but mortal earth,<LB>And can't inherit by my birth.<LB>I, by your combined power was made,<LB>And can't exist without your aid;<LB>I'm not the soul, as you have said,<LB>Though to the soul, perchance, I'm wed.<LB>This seems to be quite strange to you,<LB>But 'tis no stranger than 'tis true.<LB>Pray do not seem to be thus riled,<LB>For parents oft mistake their child;<LB>So let me introduce my guest,<LB>Judge Reason, for he knows the best.</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">REASON.<LB>With Thought for many years I've been,<LB>I'll say, e'er since the world began.<LB>Her power the earth will e'er control,<LB>But still I think she's not the soul.<LB>The truth it is quite plain to all,<LB>Souls e'er exist, or not at all;<LB>And if we argue on that plan,<LB>All brutes have souls as well as man;<LB>For where's the brute to action wrought,<LB>Unless it is by force of thought?<LB>Has not the beast that stores his grain,<LB>Some thought of winter's snow or rain?<LB>Does not the bee that sips his sweet<LB>Lay up in store his winter's meat?<LB>If mind's the soul, the little bee<LB>Has future claims on Deity.<LB>But now all ask me in one breath,<LB>"What is the soul that lives in death,<LB>That flies from earth to hell or Heaven,<LB>To meet its doom in justice given?"<LB>My answer is, "'Twill ne'er be known<LB>Whilst earth's encircled by a zone."</HI>
189.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>LINES.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>[Written on seeing Capt. C. L. Wight, of the Second Regiment of Illinois volunteers, sleeping on the brick floor of the Guard House, Tampico, Mexico, after having spent the night with him as officer of the day.]</P>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">SLEEP on, youthful hero, in quiet reposing,<LB>Thy sleep it is sweet and refreshing to thee,<LB>Each quick beating pulse to thy watcher disclosing<LB>His heart that's as buoyant--his spirit as free--</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">As the first morning zephyr that sweeps o'er the main,<LB>Or thy country's flag that is floating on high,<LB>Or the swift bounding deer that skips over the plain<LB>That glides from pursuit when danger is nigh.<LB>Yes, calm thy repose--that heart seems at rest,<LB>With naught but a damp, cold tile for thy pillow;<LB>But the fond tint of hope, it has softly impressed<LB>A glow on that cheek, pale though not sallow.<LB>Yes, he sleeps, and that in an enemy's land,<LB>Where many a hero has slept in his gore;<LB>Gallant young warrior, though born to command,<LB>Thou soon mayst sleep to awaken no more;<LB>Where no ties of affection nor angelic charms<LB>Shall hasten the brave, youthful hero to greet;<LB>No battle's loud roar, nor display of arms,<LB>Shall stay his advance, or shall prompt his retreat.<LB>Their mem'ry alone to his friends could portray<LB>That heart sympathetic, both gen'rous and great,<LB>That by war and disease had sunk to decay,<LB>Where courage and manhood both yielded to fate.</HI>
189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE RIO GRANDE SHORE.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">THE war-cry is sounding once more in our land,<LB>Each brave heart is bounding to make a bold stand;<LB>The youth of our country in armor shine bright,<LB>Determined on victory, they haste to the fight.<LB>The cannons roar louder, each brave heart seems prouder,<LB>And loud shouts of vict'ry burst forth from the plain,</HI>
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189.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The Mexicans wheeling, their broken ranks reeling,<LB>Though vain is the effort to rally again.<LB>Now some eyes are weeping, and some hearts are leaping,<LB>Palo Alto's red field is now covered with gore,<LB>Where many brave heroes lie silently sleeping,<LB>To awake to the call of their country no more,<LB>Whilst the foemen now stand on the broad Rio Grande<LB>Their boats not sufficient to ferry them o'er;<LB>Their terror increasing, equipage releasing,<LB>They have plunged and are lost in the torrent's loud roar.<LB>The cry, "They are drowning," through the camp is now sounding;<LB>But our boats were removed ere the battle was o'er,<LB>And with faces dejected, our heroes collected<LB>To witness the scene from the Rio Grande shore.<LB>TAYLOR victorious, no name more glorious<LB>Could cheer the brave hearts of Columbia's sons.<LB>Our victory complete, to our foes a defeat,<LB>Come, now shout it aloud with a trumpet's strong tones.<LB>Adieu to those heroes who sank to repose,<LB>Who fought their last battle, and conquered their foes,<LB>Who bravely in action, with the saber in hand,<LB>Sank to rest with the foes near the Del Norte strand.<LB>And to you that survive, who fought sword in hand,<LB>Who obeyed the first call of Columbia's land;<LB>Who fought for your country where the cannons loud roar,<LB>Amid sabers' bright flash on the Rio Grande shore,<LB>Your fame is untarnished, your honor as fair<LB>As the maiden's first blush, or the bright morning-star.<LB>On earth to reward you no power is given,<LB>Immortal of birth, its reward is in Heaven.</HI>
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189.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE PATRIOT'S DREAM.<LB>INTRODUCTION.</HEAD>
189.sgm:<P>1<LB><HI REND="blockindent">SOULS of the brave, who, passed and gone<LB>Beyond the praise of mortal tongue,<LB>No longer lead your legions on,<LB>Like the immortal WASHINGTON!<LB>No thrilling shout to freedom's son,<LB>To gird his glittering armor on;<LB>No victory now is lost or won,<LB>Nor battle stayed at setting sun;<LB>Nor no terrific cannons roar,<LB>To rouse the dreadful god of war.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>2<LB><HI REND="blockindent">But would to God the trump could sound,<LB>For those now in oppression bound,<LB>And let them pass the watchword round,<LB>To <HI REND="italics">Canada's</HI>
189.sgm: remotest bound;<LB>That freedom's sons might catch the tone<LB>All Tory faction to put down;<LB>While rushing on to liberty,<LB>Their only watchword--victory.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>3<LB><HI REND="blockindent">The patriot then did heave a sigh,<LB>That's wafted by the breeze on high;<LB>Likewise the spirits of the slain,<LB>"Revenge!" they one and all proclaim.<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>486</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>485</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:Arrayed before their God, they stand,<LB>And retribution there demand.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>4<LB><HI REND="blockindent">And now, methinks, I do behold<LB>Bright swords of steel, and crowns of gold,<LB>Descending near with a proud crest,<LB>The haughty tyrants to arrest.<LB>I saw them, marshaled one by one,<LB>In single file come marching down;<LB>I saw their gallant leader mount,<LB>And well I knew the murdered LOUNT.<LB>Then next to him, in this bright train,<LB>Behold the bleeding MATHEWS came.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>5<LB><HI REND="blockindent">The next I saw was freedom's son,<LB>A warlike, bold Kentuckian;<LB>With rifle long and steel all bared,<LB>For deadly conflict then prepared;<LB>And on his breast he wore a star,<LB>That marked him as a man of war;<LB>His step was measured, firm, and slow--<LB>In him I recognized MORROW!</HI>
189.sgm:<P>6<LB><HI REND="blockindent">And then the next I did descry<LB>Was WILLIAM PUTNAM'S eagle eye.<LB>I saw his form erect and fair,<LB>His dauntless look and manly air;<LB>I saw him marching to the field,<LB>With vengeance written on his shield.</HI>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>487</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>486</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>7<LB><HI REND="blockindent">VAN SCHOULTS next came to grace the band,--<LB>An exiled son of Poland's land;<LB>Well trained to arms in days of yore--<LB>A military air he bore!<LB>And as I stood there, quite amazed,<LB>Upon the motley crowd I gazed;<LB>But soon I turned my eye again<LB>From the bright legions of the plain--<LB>When at my side and all alone,<LB>In armor bright, stood captain DONE.<LB>He waved a banner in his hand,<LB>An emblem of the <HI REND="italics">Spartan band</HI>
189.sgm:,<LB>Who yielded not to Britain's power--<LB>Who scorned to flee in danger's hour.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>8<LB><HI REND="blockindent">And then I turned to look again<LB>On the bright legions of the plain;<LB>I heard a bugle's distant peal,<LB>I heard the clang of hoof and steel!<LB>I saw the warlike hosts did kneel;<LB>And their bent forms did then reveal<LB>Fair freedom's noblest, bravest son--<LB>The great, immortal WASHINGTON!<LB>He made a signal with his hand--<LB>Each chief arose at his command;<LB>Loud shouts burst from the sceptered crowd,<LB>The echo came both long and loud;<LB>Again the hero waved his hand,<LB>Again the crowd obeyed command.</HI>
189.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>488</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>487</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>9<LB><HI REND="blockindent">His dress was as in days of yore;<LB>A uniform of blue he wore,<LB>A plume of white his cap it bore,<LB>That high above the rest did soar.<LB>His face was pale, though calm his eye--<LB>He looked around, then heaved a sigh;<LB>Bowed to the crowd with a caress,<LB>And thus commenced his last address.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>10<LB><HI REND="blockindent">WASHINGTON.<LB>"Chieftains of war, in battle tried--<LB>Your country's care, your nation's pride!<LB>Who fought not for an empty name,<LB>Nor shed your blood for gold or fame;<LB>But from the rise to set of sun<LB>Stood as your country's champion;<LB>Who deepest hewed where despots stood,<LB>On plains Canadian shed their blood;<LB>Ye noble shades of earthly dust,<LB>Well might your country in ye trust!<LB>And ye have passed death's stormy waves,<LB>Your bodies rest in earthly graves;<LB>But there they will no longer feel<LB>Oppression's hand nor traitor's steel.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>11<LB><HI REND="blockindent">"Our country's bound in servile chains,<LB>And pampered despots hold the reins;<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>489</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>488</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:With bitter cries our country groans--<LB>Her fairest daughters make their moans;<LB>Her noblest sons have exiles fled,<LB>Or rest with the forgotten dead,<LB>Or groan within some prison cell,<LB>Or in some secret cavern dwell,<LB>Or in a menial, servile way,<LB>For clemency to despots pray;<LB>Or start forth with a stalwart hand,<LB>Strike down some leader of their band,<LB>And then, unaided, he must fly,<LB>Or like a felon he must die.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>12<LB><HI REND="blockindent">"But haste! ye heroes of the past,<LB>At God's command, shout forth the blast;<LB>Call forth the dead, in battle slain,<LB>And let them all return again,<LB>To meet in field their country's foe,<LB>And deal to them a deathly blow,<LB>And hurl Great Britain from the land<LB>Where freedom's flag has made a stand.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>13<LB><HI REND="blockindent">`But unto me no power is given,<LB>From the great Judge or court of Heaven,<LB>Now to descend to earth again,<LB>On battle-fields to witness pain--<LB>Else with the sword I once did wield,<LB>I'd march with you into the field;<LB>And then in conflict dread to see,<HI REND="italics">Strike</HI>
189.sgm: for a nation's <HI REND="italics">Liberty</HI>
189.sgm:!<LB>But at the bar of God I'll stand<LB>And plead for that devoted band."</HI>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>490</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>489</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>14<LB><HI REND="blockindent">The heavens rang, so loud they cheered;<LB>I looked again, he'd disappeared;<LB>The bugle sounds its lofty strains,<LB>One living sea now spreads the plains;<LB>All in bright armor now arrayed,<LB>Marshaled for war and on parade.<LB>I saw their glittering armor flash,<LB>I saw their noble chargers dash;<LB>I watched them long with startling eyes,<LB>As fast to earth the legion flies.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>15<LB>When I <HI REND="italics">awoke</HI>
189.sgm: I was alone,<LB>My seat was a moss-covered stone;<LB>The leaves in listless silence hung,<LB>The night insects around me sung;<LB>The sun had sought the western hill,<LB>Throwing its last rays on the rill,<LB>That murmured on in music sweet,<LB>And played in gambols at my feet--<LB>Then hurrying on in swift retreat,<LB>Some other listening ear to greet;<LB>Or the broad <HI REND="italics">Fox's</HI>
189.sgm: stream to meet,<LB>And roll on with that crystal sheet--<LB>But still my mind will oft revert<LB>To scenes the nearest to my heart.</P>
189.sgm:<P>16<LB><HI REND="blockindent">Canadian wilds! my early home,<LB>I think of thee whene'er alone;<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>491</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>490</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:An exile now compelled to roam<LB>In a strange land, to all unknown;<LB>None to extend a genial hand--<LB>A pilgrim in a stranger land.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>17<LB><HI REND="blockindent">The lonely crag to me endeared--<LB>Its mossy brown my childhood cheered.<LB>The rising hill, the creek, the dell,<LB>The ancient tree, the pond, and well,<LB>The field my youthful hand did till,<LB>The plowman's song, the clattering mill:<LB>All these endeared this land to me--<LB>Home of my youth and infancy.<LB>Thy stumpy fields I fain would sow,<LB>The growing thistle up I'd hoe;<LB>Protect my corn against the crow,<LB>And in the depths of winter go<LB>To hunt the deer 'mid four feet snow.<LB>With all those hardships I'd comply,<LB>And labor until called to die,<LB>If but one boon could granted be,<LB>My country's rights,--her liberty.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>18<LB><HI REND="blockindent">But oh! how could I longer stand,<LB>And see a ruthless Tory band,<LB>Without an order or command,<LB>Wide ravaging my native land.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>19<LB><HI REND="blockindent">Age was then no guard 'gainst wrong,<LB>Weakness protected not the young;<LB>For them did beauty have no charms,<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>492</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>491</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:Save while within the ruffian's arms:<LB>To justice blind, in manners base--<LB>A curse unto the human race!<LB>In parlors grand their horses eat;<LB>Behold their inmates in the street;<LB>Behold that mother far and near<LB>Seeks shelter for her offspring dear,<LB>And when successful, she at last<LB>Can shield them from the winter's blast;<LB>But driven from affluency,<LB>To most degrading misery.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>20<LB><HI REND="blockindent">While the sire, flying from his home,<LB>Now in a foreign land to roam,<LB>With a sad and troubled mind,<LB>To leave his dearest ones behind:<LB>And rude the shelter they would find<LB>'Mid tyrants who, to justice blind,<LB>Had robbed him of that much-loved home,<LB>And then compelled him far to roam.</HI>
189.sgm:<P>21<LB><HI REND="blockindent">But hark! again they come--they come,<LB>The bugle sounds, the rattling drum--<LB>Now, <HI REND="italics">Spartans</HI>
189.sgm: bold, defend your home!<LB>But ah, behold in prison den,<LB>Where lies her noblest, bravest men.<LB>With galling chains their limbs are bound,<LB>And, closely pinioned to the ground,<LB>In vain for justice there they cry,<LB>Without a trial doomed to die.</HI>
189.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>493</CONTROLPGNO>
189.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>492</PRINTPGNO>
189.sgm:<P>22<LB><HI REND="blockindent">While you rule with mighty sway,<LB>Now, Britain, list to what I say:<LB>You'll think of it some coming day,<LB>When colonies are swept away;<LB>And when your empire, proud and vast,<LB>Is blotted from the light of day,<LB>Some passing traveler will say,<LB>"Here was an empire of renown,<LB>That ruled and wore Britannia's crown;<LB>But <HI REND="italics">she</HI>
189.sgm:, like other nations past,<LB>Is crushed by her own guilt at last."</HI>
189.sgm:<P>23<LB><HI REND="blockindent">But she sinks not to oblivion shade,<LB>Where fated Rome and Greece are laid;<LB>But rises from her fallen state,<LB>With sister nations to be great.<LB>With tyranny no longer wed--<LB>No longer bow to crowned head;<LB>But freedom's living light now shed,<LB>Where tyranny in darkness fled.<LB>Now peace and plenty kindly smile<LB>Where want and misery frowned erewhile.<LB>How cheerful is each village clan,<LB>The boon from God bestowed to man;<LB>How happy then old England's shore,<LB>When despots rule her courts no more!</HI>
192.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-192</TITLE>
192.sgm:<TITLE>Far-West sketches, by Jessie Benton Fre&acute;mont: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
192.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
192.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
192.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
192.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
192.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
192.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
192.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-744</LCCN>
192.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
192.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>29333</COPYRIGHT>
192.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>FAR-WEST SKETCHES</P>
192.sgm:<P>BY</P>
192.sgm:<P>JESSIE BENTON FRE&acute;MONT</P>
192.sgm:<P>Author of "SOUVENIRS OF MY TIME," Etc., Etc.</P>
192.sgm:<P>BOSTON</P>
192.sgm:<P>D. LOTHROP COMPANY</P>
192.sgm:<P>WASHINGTON STREET OPPOSITE BROMFIELD</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1890,</P>
192.sgm:<P>BY</P>
192.sgm:<P>E. BENTON FRE&acute;MONT.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>I.<LB>CHRISTMAS IN LOTOS-LAND<HSEP>13<LB>II.<LB>HOW THE GOOD NEWS CAME OUT FROM THE WEST<HSEP>29<LB>III.<LB>MY GRIZZLY BEAR<HSEP>42<LB>IV.<LB>BESIEGED<HSEP>53<LB>V.<LB>THE HOUSE THAT JACK BUILT<HSEP>84<LB>VI.<LB>SIERRA NEIGHBORS<HSEP>108<LB>VII.<LB>CAMPING NEAR THE GIANT TREES<HSEP>136</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>VIII.<LB>THE BALL<HSEP>152<LB>IX.<LB>THE CAMP ON MT. BULLION<HSEP>167<LB>X.<LB>A "FAR COUNTREE"<HSEP>182</P>
192.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>FAR-WEST SKETCHES</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<HEAD>I.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>CHRISTMAS IN LOTOS-LAND.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"<HI REND="italics">Kens't du das land</HI>
192.sgm:."<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<P>A CHRISTMAS day all sunshine and roses--a Sunday and Christmas-day in one; peace within, and all about us good-will.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We got in the night before, Christmas Eve, and now with the long journey across our huge continent ended in safety for our invalid, and this sunshine-land for ally, our anxieties could cease.</P>
192.sgm:<P>It seemed like the waking from a bad dream.  Back of us lay the sudden illness, the warning to "get away to a warm climate, while it is yet time, and risk no more Northern winters."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We had known well where to go:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"There are no rough breezes blowing<LB>In that fair land where we are going"<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<P>The cold black Atlantic was washing against the snow-covered Jersey coast as we ran up to New York, and cold and snow were with us in the early, early drive across Washington, not too early to find dear baby faces watching for us at the window--rushing out regardless of weather with shouts of welcome to bring us in close to the bright fire, to pour out a happy confusion of joy and eager hospitality--"right <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"Next Sunday," says accurate Jack.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"Yes, next Sunday," echoes Baby Juliet, "Christmas soon, next Sunday, yes-ter-day," her one date.</P>
192.sgm:<P>They were so full of joyful pride in welcoming us to their house, after the happy seaside summer with us, and so beautifully intent on their young hospitality that we all met it in the same spirit.  That one day of halt in the journey should also be a day of rest from troubled thought.  "Do not poison to-day with tomorrow," a wise kind physician told me long ago, so we were led by a little child and made it Juliet's "yesterday"--a home-day that keeps always "the tender grace of a day that is gone."</P>
192.sgm:<P>One little one declared she would go with us.  She was staggered when it was represented to her that she would then miss the Christmas-Tree <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"Then I will wait," she said, climbing to the arms always so glad to hold her; and nestling her pink cheek against the gray moustache she gave her plan (in that bright lexicon of babyhood there is no such word as impossible).  "As soon as I wake after the Tree I will go to the engine house and tell the driver to hurry and catch up--oh!--please tell your driver to drive slow, because I am coming as soon as the Tree is over, and when we catch up with you I will say thank you, and get on your train and go on with you."</P>
192.sgm:<P>Later the nurse came for help to stop the little one from "rummaging the closets and drawers."  She had decided that "eight dresses will do, but they must be my best," and her slim hands were busy "packing" them.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We had to go on.  Night settled on us installed in warmth and the luxury of comfort American travel has devised.  Our immense <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We looked back through the gathering night and falling snow to the dome of the Capitol, so often our last land-mark of home, and though we spoke bravely of its welcoming us back on many happy returns, yet of what we felt most just then we did not speak.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Soon came new ideas.  A stop for supper was called out at "Manassas Junction," and at that name the years rolled back to that ordeal of the nation--that time of partings--of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>And so, on and on, down the valley of the rushing Kanawha where I as a child had so often traveled among welcoming relations from one Virginia home to another, through Kentucky past more battle memories and more names recalling family homes and united feelings; then the straight descent of the noble Mississippi valley--to me inseparable from my father.</P>
192.sgm:<P>You come upon the Great River just above Memphis.  A swell of far-past but never dimmed memories came with the view of the mighty stream, its tawny waters shining in the glow of the setting sun.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Because I was fortunate in living from my youth up with the prophets and wise men of the Great West I see it and know its conquering growth as I would have you young people of the East see it.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We had come into softer drier air after the Alleghanies made our shelter from Atlantic winds, and in pleasant Kentucky we saw no snow; instead the trees and pastures were still green.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We had not dared to look back or question the wisdom of our sudden move.  Now we saw it was being justified by improving conditions.  And the interest in unfamiliar country traveled over was great.  Especially when we ran along between level rich sugar estates; but even here the winter began to overtake us.  We drove across New Orleans and crossed the river in a driving sleet storm.  Harsh weather was a new feature there, but again familiar names of streets recalled a far past and my father, and the high-walled gardens of Esplanade street still had their orange-trees though the oranges now glistened through icy coating.</P>
192.sgm:<P>From here, on, through Louisiana, through Texas and New Mexico, even through heated lower Arizona it was a neck-and-neck race with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:our enemy winter.  A winter so exceptional and cruel that even in these low latitudes sleet, ice, driving cold winds and rains kept pace with us.  Long icicles fringed the water tanks.  We needed our furs and winter wraps although a soft warmth kept the Pullman car healthily comfortable.  Even at Yuma, which disputes with Aden the palm for heat, there was skimice about the grounds of the hotel where we breakfasted; but the blue sky, and orange-trees loaded with fruit promised return to usual conditions.  Then followed the dip of over three hundred feet below the sea level; usually a stifling passage across the desert sandy basin of what was once the head of the Gulf of California but just now only agreeably warm.  Farewell now to winter, for we were safe at last in the summer land!  Coming up on the far side of the Basin we met the fresh yet soft air of the Pacific Ocean and entered a region of rich valleys and gentle hills with pastures and orchards and pretty farmhouses and, what as night <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>And into the town we ran, Christmas Eve--only two hours behind time on the long journey from sea to sea.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Before we were fairly in dear friends had met us and we realized by their sympathy of look and manner what a haggard-looking lot we were.</P>
192.sgm:<P>From the railway carriage which had been our secluded quiet home for a week we emerged into a glare of gas and electric lights, the noise, the crowd, the crush of a busy city--a stunning change.</P>
192.sgm:<P>It was a long drive to the hotel, but every image of repose was waiting us.  Real beds, large separate rooms, tea by a quiet stationary table, and to feel we were no longer attached to a time-table made us gratefully content.  For <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Christmas morning came with warm blue sky and sweet sunshine.  Up the street between tall business houses we could look to Fort Hill, where forty years before our rescued invalid had planted a battery and raised our Flag.  And where the loveliness of nature and climate entered his heart and never left it.  To come back here was to renew younger life and find new strenght.</P>
192.sgm:<P>What a <HI REND="italics">wonderscho&die;n</HI>
192.sgm: drive we had that Christmas-day--all manner of surprises delighted us.  It was only eight years since I had seen it--a very quiet little town still in its cocoon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:of Californian indifference to American push.  "Why trouble for more, when we have enough?"  But transcontinental railways push too hard for inertness or resistance, and now it was a big city never to know quiet again.  The low hills and flowery plains browsed over by countless sheep had become a spreading city with outlying villages and farmsteads and market gardens, and everywhere the once open view was broken by long avenues and thickets of the tall Australian gum-tree, its marked blue-green (peacock-blue) in contrast with the rich darkgreen of the orchards on orchards, and avenues of the orange now covered with its golden fruit, and the exquisite feathery pale-green of the pepper-tree which makes here, as in modern Athens, the chosen shade-tree.  Pretty cottages--very "seaside" many of them--were everywhere on smooth lawns of blue grass, their piazzas veiled by fragrant roses climbing to the roof--the pure white Lamarque, the yellow Mare&circ;chal Neil, saffron, red and rich pink roses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The abundant water runs in these fixed open channels at fixed rates and times under the active supervision of a "zanjero"<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
192.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">The Moors left their enduring mark on Spain in their system of irrigation reproduced here by the early Spanish priests, and keeping through time and changes of all kinds the original Moorish names of "zanja and "zanjero" for the open water-conduits, and the official charged to oversee their proper use.</NOTE>
192.sgm:<P>Flowers we coddle in warm rooms were here small trees with the birds going about their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>It was wonderfully gay and inspiriting to see all this beautiful life in contrast to the winter just behind us.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The lovely valley is rimmed about by ranges of mountains rising from green foot-hills to the dark Sierra, snow-crowned.  Its glittering summits made the culminating touch of beauty--and the defense for us--"so far, but no farther," its snow-peaks said.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Even the trees were in color.  The pimento--pepper-tree--has feathery fern-like foliage of tender white-green with long clusters of berries, the size and clear color of red currants.  It is such a fresh, refined and graceful tree that I do not wonder it was chosen as the decorative tree in the new Athens where it borders the avenues and parks.  By it, here, grows the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We were now in the new and broader residence quarter, the avenues of orange, of pepper-trees, of fan-palm became longer, the lawns spread into greater size, and the large houses back in their grounds were pictures of beauty from the masses of delicate foliage and lovely color about them.  Turning into the gates of one of these our friend said it was growing too warm for our wraps, and we would leave them at that house.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"But can we?"</P>
192.sgm:<P>"O, yes!  I know them there.  they will be very glad to have you drive through, or, if you will, come in."</P>
192.sgm:<P>We drove very slowly up a long carriage-way bordered by a hedge of glowing geraniums, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Fancy this, after the black Atlantic and the pursuing snow and cold.</P>
192.sgm:<P>And all this growth, from grass to trees, was not yet eight years old.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We were so entranced we did not notice the carriage had stopped by the lotos-pond.  Our friend had taken out the wraps and a lady was coming down the steps with a smile of welcome in her gentle blue eyes.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"Yes," she said, "you are to get out--and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>My letters home that evening were all out of shape with rose-leaves and violets and such-like sweet vouchers that we were safe where winter could not follow, and in their own dear silent way carried messages of comforting and hope.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>HOW THE GOOD NEWS CAME OUT FROM THE WEST.</P>
192.sgm:<P>EDISON says he will work at his latest invention "until it registers sounds now lost to our grosser senses."</P>
192.sgm:<P>I would like to tell you of a singular transmission of knowledge between far distant points, which he may yet be able to explain.  For it was akin to the telephone, only sublimated.</P>
192.sgm:<P>It would have been a ghost story pure and simple in older times; but to be in keeping with to-day it is but a beautiful fact, which Science may yet reduce to useful practice.</P>
192.sgm:<P>I was so used to his safe returns from every danger that I had become fairly reasonable about Mr. Fre&acute;mont's journeys, and my wise loving father took care I should have my mind and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>This time it came upon me as a fact I could not turn from.  It fairly haunted me for nearly two weeks, until, young and absolutely healthy as I was, it made a physical effect on me.  Sleep and appetite were broken up, and in spite of my father's and my own efforts to dissipate it by reasoning, by added open-air life, nothing dulled my sense of increasing suffering from hunger to Mr. Fre&acute;mont and his party.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>This weight of fear was lifted from me as suddenly as it had come.</P>
192.sgm:<P>My house was near that of my father's, and the younger part of his family when returning from parties often came to me for the remainder of the night that the elders might not have their sleep broken.  In this way one of my sisters and a cousin came to me after a wedding ball at General Jessup's.  The drive home was long and over rough frozen streets, and it was nearly one o'clock when they came in--glad enough of the bright room and big wood fire waiting them.  As girls do, they took off their ball dresses and made themselves comfortable with loose woollen gowns and letting down their hair, while I, only too pleased just then to have an excuse for staying up with others, made them tea as we talked over the evening and the bride.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The fire was getting low and I went into the adjoining dressing-room to bring in more wood.  It was an old-fashioned big fireplace and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Silently I went back into the girl's room with the wood, but before I could speak my sister, looking up to take a stick from me, gave a great cry and fell in a heap on the rug.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"What have you seen?" called out our cousin, Mary Benton, the most steady-nerved, even-natured of women then as now.</P>
192.sgm:<P>I had not yet spoken; this was all in a flash together.  When I said it was Mr. Fre&acute;mont--that he touched my shoulder for me to "keep still and let him scare Susy"--then the poor child screamed again and again.  We crushed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The girls had been distressed by my fixed idea of danger to Mr. Fre&acute;mont and knew how out of condition it had made me.  Their first thought now was that my mind had broken down.  They soon realized this was not so as we discussed the strange fact of my knowing--knowing--and so surely that peace came back to me--that whatever he had had to bear was over; that he was now safe and light of heart; and that in some way he himself had told me so.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We talked long and the girls were too excited for sleep, though the unrelible little French clock chimed three.  But a blessed rest had fallen on me and I went off to "a sleep that sank into my soul" deep and dreamless, from which I did not wake until ten the next day, when my eyes opened to see my father sitting by my bedside.  He had been guarding my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The girls had watched near me until morning when they went over and told my father, who had in our family physician, Dr. Lindsley, to look at me.  But both recognized it to be healthy refreshing sleep; my color had returned and the strained anxious expression was gone--more than any words this told to practiced eyes that some electric change had restored "the peaceful currents of the blood."</P>
192.sgm:<P>With sleep and appetite strengh soon returned, but the true "good-medicine" was my absolute certainty of safety for Mr. Fre&acute;mont.</P>
192.sgm:<P>My father's first words to me had been, "Child, you have seen a vision?" and lawyerlike he questioned and cross-questioned me thoroughly (as he had already the two girls).  This vision, as he named it, interested him deeply.  He knew me to be soundly healthy; he had seen the sudden genuine fear holding and altering me as an illness would, and now, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We all talked it over with friends, often.  There was no way to verify what Mr. Fre&acute;mont's part had been during those two weeks.  We must wait until, his journey over, by summer at the earliest, he should reach San Francisco, and then the only mail was nearly a month, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
192.sgm:<P>But in early April there came to Washington, overland, a Mormon elder, named Babitt, from the settlement of Parowan in (now) South Utah.  Mr. Babitt brought us letters from Mr. Fre&acute;mont written at Parowan, and added many details of personal intelligence.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The winter had been very harsh, and much snow falling drove off the game.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont had in his party but few of his old companions--men whose experience and nerve gave them resource and staying power in emergencies.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Most of the party were unwilling to go farther, and remained there, for whites and Indians agreed that no one had ever been heard of again who had tried to cross into California on that line.</P>
192.sgm:<P>As Mr. Fre&acute;mont persevered, Mr. Babitt aided him in all ways to refit, and cashed his personal draft on a San Francisco bank, a trust never before shown a Gentile by a Mormon.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Now the fact was verified that there had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>This fortnight was the period during which I knew of their starving.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The relief came to them when they got into Parowan--the evening of the sixth of February--when I was made to know that also, that same night.  Every family took in some of the men, putting them into warm rooms and clean comfortable beds, and kind-faced women gave them reviving food and pitying words.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont's letters could not say enough of the gentle, patient care of these kind women.  And of his own "great relief of mind."</P>
192.sgm:<P>After this we heard no more until the twenty-fifth of May when he telegraphed from New York as his steamer got in from Aspinwall, and by set of sun he was again at home.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Soon he was told by my father of what I have been telling you here.  His lawyer-habit of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>As nearly as we could settle it, two A.M. was the hour I had the flash of information that all was well again.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The girls had stayed out later than usual as it was an assembly of family friends for a marriage festivity, and the long rough drive over frozen mud of the old Washington streets was necessarily slow.  Our old coachman objected to being out after twelve and we saw with a little quake that it was nearly one when they came in.</P>
192.sgm:<P>After that came the undressing, the leisurely hair-brushing, the long gossip over the evening as they took their tea; and this brought it to about two o'clock.  Time did not enter much into our former easy-going Southern lives, and we were three young women amused, comfortable--and what did it matter an hour more or less?</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>After the shock we were too deeply moved to do other than feel.  Properly, we should have looked at the clock, made a minute of the facts, signed it, and put it on record.  But we did not know about all that, those days.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We only knew it was "nearing one" when the girls came home, "about two" when the fire grew low, and "quite three" when overpowering sleep sent me off to bed.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Next morning when the baggage came, the journal of that time was taken out and we read the entry for the night of their arrival at Parowan, the bringing up of the journal to the latest waking hour being a fixed habit.  We read:</P>
192.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Parowan, February</HI>
192.sgm: 6, 11<SUPERSCRIPT>h</SUPERSCRIPT>
192.sgm: 30' <HI REND="italics">p.m</HI>
192.sgm:.," and the brief record of the arrival, their safety and comfort, and the goodness of every one to them.  He had been around to each of his party for a thankful good-night, and had seen them each in warm beds; he wrote of the contrast to the bad days just past and of his own quiet room with its fire of logs and "the big <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Then there followed the wish that I could know of this comfort and of his mind at ease.</P>
192.sgm:<P>And, at that moment, I did know.</P>
192.sgm:<P>For the difference of longitude makes Washington two hours and twenty-three minutes later than Parowan, so that 11<SUPERSCRIPT>h</SUPERSCRIPT>
192.sgm: 30' <HI REND="italics">p.m</HI>
192.sgm:. there, would be in Washington 1<SUPERSCRIPT>h</SUPERSCRIPT>
192.sgm: 53' <HI REND="italics">a.m</HI>
192.sgm:<P>They have here in California, a lovely custom of a Festival of Flowers each year while the wild flowers are in beauty and roses and other planted flowers are literally in countless number and splendor.  These flowers that "toil not" yet do noble work, for the annual flower-fe&circ;tes have built up Orphan Asylums and Homes for Working Women throughout the State.</P>
192.sgm:<P>In the spring of 1888 we were guests of the beautiful rich town of San Jose&acute; during its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>But a dawning memory was coming up and the General asked "Was it not in snow-time?" and both said "Parowan."</P>
192.sgm:<P>And so it was--the very man at whose house he had been so hospitably cared for--from whose hearth in Utah had flashed to me in Washington that strange message of peace.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>MY GRIZZLY BEAR.</P>
192.sgm:<P>BEAR VALLEY was the name of the busy mining town nearest us on our mining place in the Lower Sierras.  It troubled our sense of fitness to call a town a valley, but it was fixed by custom and fitness; for this had been a happy hunting-ground of the grizzlies.  Acorns of the long variety, tasting like chestnuts, abounded here as well as the usual smaller varieties, while the rich oily nut of the pin&tilde;onpine made their delight.  These acorns and pin&tilde;ones were the chief bread-supplies of the Indians also who did not give them up easily, and consequently bear-skeletons and Indian skulls remained to tell the tale to the miners who came in to the rich "diggings" there.  American rifles, then the pounding of quartz <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>To my objection of using "valley" and "town" as one and the same, I was told best let it alone or worse would follow, for there was a strong party intending to change the name of the place to "Simpkinsville," and how would I like that?  The postmaster was the Simpkins--a tall, "showy" young man with an ambitious wife much older than himself; he was a London footman and she Irish, active, energetic, with a good head, and with ambitions for her Simpkins.  That neither of them could read or write was a trivial detail that did not seem to disturb the public.  Men would swing down from horse or wagon-box, go in and select from the loose pile of letters their own and those of their neighbors, and have their drink at the bar over which Simpkins presided (they kept a tavern and the post-office was only a little detail).</P>
192.sgm:<P>But with the instinct of a man who "had seen the world" toward people of somewhat the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:same experience, the postmaster treated us with the largest courtesy, for everything with a capital "F" on it was laid aside for us.<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
192.sgm: Isaac, our part-Indian hunter, who generally rode in for the mail did not read either, and often had to make return-trips to give back what was not ours.  It was in the time of Mr. Buchanan's administration, and had Simpkins sent in a petition signed as it would have been by the <HI REND="italics">habitue&acute;s</HI>
192.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1">This "F" was the brand on all the tools and belongings of the works--in these countries whatever else was defied the brand had to be respected.</NOTE>
192.sgm:<P>I had never before gone up to this property, and now it was chiefly as a summer open-air and camping-out tour to be over in three months, when we were to return to Paris where all arrangements had been made for a three-years stay.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Although the bear had long disappeared from this favorite old haunt I felt nervous about horseback excursions.  Mountains are grim things at best, but all those deep clefts and thickets in ravines and horrid stony hill-slopes barred me from any but the beaten stage and wagon-roads, with our cool, brave Issac to drive me.  However, there was one view Mr. Fre&acute;mont wanted me to see which we could get to only on horseback, with a short climb at the peak of the mountain.  From the summit we could see eighty miles off the line of the San Joaquin River, defined by its broad belt of trees, running north and south parallel to our mountains; connecting the two were many mountain rivers crossing the broad plain and glittering like steel ribbons in the afternoon sun--the Merced, the Stanislaus, the Tuolumne and others; a turn of the head showed the peaks of the Yosemite thirty miles off, and lines of blue mountains back to the everlasting snow of Carson's Peak--a stretch of a hundred and fifty miles.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>It was a rough ride up, and rougher climbing after the horses could go no further and had to be left tied to trees with one man to watch them--only one other was with us; our party was only myself and my daughter with her father and the two men.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We were growing more and more enthusiastic as glimpses of this rare view came to us.  Mr. Fre&acute;mont told us the distances, which only singularly pure mountain air could have let the eye pierce.  "And the ear, too," I said.  "We must be three miles from the village and yet how near sounds the barking of that dog!"</P>
192.sgm:<P>Dead silence fell on our animated people.  They listened, as the rough, low bark--broader and rougher even than that of a bull-dog--rose again, sounding really close to us.</P>
192.sgm:<P>I never question any acts of some few people but I was surprised, and not too pleased, to find myself hurried back down the steep, stony peak with only, "It is too late to finish the climb--we must hurry--do not speak--keep all your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>47</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Without a word I was lifted into the saddle--Mr. Fre&acute;mont gathered up my reins himself and kept close to my side--and we fairly scurried down the mountain, I shamelessly holding to the saddle as the steep grade made me dizzy.  This dizziness so preoccupied me with the fear of fainting that I felt nothing else.  We gained the stage-road by the shortest cut, and then a loping gallop soon brought us home, where I was carefully lifted down and all the consideration and care which they dared not give me on the hurried ride was now lavished on me.  I had been seriously ill not long before and could not understand why I was so roughly hauled along.</P>
192.sgm:<P>There was reason enough.</P>
192.sgm:<P>It was no dog, but a grizzly bear that made that warning bark, and we were very close to it.</P>
192.sgm:<P>My ignorance spared me the shock of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Very quickly our bright drawing-room filled with eager men gun in hand.  Armed men rode down the glen intent on that bear--first coming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Lights frighten off wild beasts.  I had no shame in illuminating the house that night.  Men laughed kindly over it, but they all felt glad I had come off so safely, and next day I was early informed that the cubs were all killed.  The bear went as usual to Quigley's for her raw pork supper, the digestion of a bear making this a pleasure without drawback, but the stir about the place was evident to the keen senses of the grizzly and the men watched that night in vain.  Her tracks were plain all around about, and the poor thing was tracked to her return to her cubs.  She had moved <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The watch was kept up, but she was wary and kept away.</P>
192.sgm:<P>At length one dark night the Quigley people heard sounds they were sure came from the bear though the hogs in the big pen were quiet.  They were stifled sounds blown away by a high wind.  There was but one man in the house, and he said his wife would not let him go after them; it was so desperately dark the odds would be all against him.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The woman said she was not sure it was a bear.  She half thought it was men fighting, and equally great danger in that isolated way of living.  So they shut their ears and their hearts although human groans and stifled blown-away cries made them sure it was no animal.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The sounds passed on.  In the morning they went to the wagon-road which ran near their inclosure and found a trail of blood.  Followed up it led to a little creek close by with steep <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>He had not been torn by a bear as was first thought, but by a ball from his own pistol.  This was found, a perfectly new pistol, in his trousers pocket; the scorched clothing showing it had gone off while in the pocket.  The trail was followed back, leading to a brook where he must have stooped to drink when the pistol, carrying a heavy ball, went off.  Yet such was his courage and determination that he crawled that long way in a state plainly told by the places where he had rolled in agony--the last was where he made his vain appeal for help at the Quigley house.  Perhaps he fell face downward into the shallow stream and was mercifully drowned.</P>
192.sgm:<P>His good clothing, a geologist's hammer, and some specimens of quartz wrapped in bits of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The grizzly had disappeared and was, I am told, the last ever known in that valley, which still has as postmark for the town, "Bear Valley;" it is to be presumed the succeeding postmasters have been men who knew the whole of the alphabet as well as the letter "F."</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IV.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>BESIEGED.</P>
192.sgm:<P>COLONEL, the Hornitas League has jumped the Black Drift!"</P>
192.sgm:<P>"What does that mean?"  I asked.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"Only mining work," was the answer.  "You had best go to sleep again."</P>
192.sgm:<P>And in my blissful ignorance go to sleep I did.  It was in the hot summer weather, that furnace-like heat of the dry season in a deep valley of the Sierras where the only touch of cooler air comes after the night has shaded the heated earth; and it was in the dim dawn of this fresher hour that the cautious, low-spoken call was made to "the Colonel."<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
192.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">Richard Dana of <HI REND="italics">Two Years Before the Mast</HI>
192.sgm: made us a delightful visit in our mountains.  He told us that while every man he met was a colonel who was not a judge, yet from Stockton up " <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>As Mr. Fre&acute;mont often rode to the mines, three miles away, before the sun was over the range, it was no surprise to find on waking that he had had his coffee and gone.  How early I was not told; nor was I let to know anything of the danger that was calling out the best thinking and best action of all our people.</P>
192.sgm:<P>In my ignorance, we went about our day as usual.  We could drive out quite late after the sun was well behind the western range, but all the long day we had to find in-door resources.  This was to the advantage of the young people, for we had found some regular occupation necessary and made it of what was around us.  Our agent had left an unusually good collection of books (he had recently died) and though it was a very irregular course, yet we secured a lot of amusement as well as instruction from these.  In French there were several fine histories of France illustrated from historical portraits and pictures, and good memoirs on the French Revolution.  Both the young people <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We were only three, but our differeing ages and countries made variety in thinking.  An English friend had asked us to let his son, a delightful lad of seventeen, go with us for the few months we were to be absent from New York--the boy had outgrown his strength and was ordered travel and rest.  My daughter was much younger, but accustomed to grown-up minds, as she had never been sent from home.  These two followed eagerly and intelligently my hap-hazard lead and we all found real pleasure <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>This day we settled to our talk-lesson, but soon I noticed their hearts were not in it.  And at luncheon their wholesome young appetites had failed them.  The two little boys were also restless, for "Isaac wouldn't let them go out to play in the barn," and it was not possible for them to play out of doors during the fierce heat of the day.</P>
192.sgm:<P>It does not take long for the mind to group little things into proofs of some larger disturbance.  Too soon I had to know that that early morning messenger was a herald of danger--of almost inevitable conflict and loss of life.</P>
192.sgm:<P>It is too long to explain here; but a bad local <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>These outsiders had organized into a League and were bound to help one another.  Property-holders, surprised by such a construction, were not ready on their side with organized resistance.  And the chief Judge<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
192.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">Judge Terry.</NOTE>
192.sgm:<P>Now Americans much prefer to live peaceably, but they will not give up their rights.  If it comes to trying force you know their record <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We had in California at that time a bad element of foreigners.  It was believed the English authorities over the convict settlements of Australia did not "take notice" of the shiploads of escaping convicts crowding into California.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We had enough bad Americans, but they, being American, had not that long inheritance of want and crime known to older countries.  These criminal outcasts, exulting in their escape from Botany Bay and Sydney, finding themselves in such thinly scattered and far-apart settlements without any visible officers of the law, felt free to follow every bad impulse.  Many honest but misled men were at first in this League, men who believed all the lands free because we had bought the country and they were told Mexican titles were of no value and only actual settlers could hold lands and mines.  To this ignorant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>On our place was a fairly orderly industrious and prospering people in settlements of small towns and mining camps scattered over a dozen miles of mountain country, isolated in sudden emergencies.  And our nearest large town and first telegraph was eighty miles away, at Stockton on the Bay of San Francisco.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The invading party numbered over a hundred.  They came from Hornitas, a place of evil fame just below our mountains--a gambling nest such as Bret Harte tells of--a place "where everything that loathes the law" found congenial soil and flourished.</P>
192.sgm:<P>These men announced we should get no help from outside, for they would let no messenger go through; they had guarded every ford and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>You must know it is very dangerous to displace the "shoring"--the timbers that protect sides and roof of the long tunnels--but the Hornitas men cared nothing for the future of the mine; no picks and slow work for them.  They put in shallow blasts wherever gold showed and were already ravaging the Black Drift.</P>
192.sgm:<P>In the two other mines luckily six of our men had been still at work, so that the League could not enter them even under its own unjust law.  This angered them, and they determined to starve these miners out and so compel the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Remember that this property had been bought, paid for, and worked for years under a United States patent.</P>
192.sgm:<P>These three mines opened out high up the precipitous mountain-side, close together, on a small space leveled out to receive the "dump" and allow the ox-wagons to load and turn easily; they were reached only by one road (with a few turn-outs) cut into the face of the mountain.  Sixteen hundred feet below was a ravine opening to the Merced River where were the mills with water-power.  The opposite mountain rose so near and so high that it was always dark down below in the deep, deep ravine with its jagged walls of rocks and stunted shrubs.  Its appropriate name was Hell's Hollow.  A fall into it was death.  Bad ground for a fight, you see.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Yet on this confined space were gathered the men of the League; and for our side, only the Colonel and a few of our friends.  Knowing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The captain of the miners was one of the six, an excellent quiet American who had a slim little bright wife from Virginia and a brood of small children who played like chamois on the sharp mountain back of their cottage near the mines.  This little woman bore the waiting and the threats quietly and bravely; doing her part to "help the Colonel."</P>
192.sgm:<P>Above all Mr. Fre&acute;mont wished to prevent violence--the first shot would have brought out all the delayed evil of one side, all the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>63</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>He hoped that by quietly talking with them, by keeping off new sources of dispute, above all by keeping away drink from them they would, as there were Americans among them, come to a better mind and see violence would not ultimately profit them.  Our men who had rapidly held a council with him (while I was asleep!) saw this necessity for silence and forbearance and seconded him in every way.  They guarded the road and the only path anything but a goat could move on, leading along from the village to the mines; the enemy had cut off communication from the mines, and our men claimed it fair play to cut off communication to the mines.  So the danger from whiskey was kept back, in spite of various efforts to get it through.</P>
192.sgm:<P>An express through to Stockton to rouse good friends there to telegraph to the Governor for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Our two brave, faithful colored men, Isaac and Lee, were our guard--this duty the Colonel trusted to them--and as strange horsemen were riding all around firing off pistols, the little boys too were not to leave the house.  This arranged rapidly, in the early dawn--while I slept--he was off to the mines.</P>
192.sgm:<P>When a danger is safely over only those who wore through its agony of suspense can realize <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>It seemed unreal--impossible, that in my own country, in the State for which my father and my husband had done so much, on our own ground and in our own home I and my young children should have to face such a condition.  And have to bear it all so helplessly; without knowledge even of what was going on but three miles from us.  The only certainties to give comfort were that no firing had been heard, and no whiskey allowed to get through.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Towards evening the policy of moderation and patience began to tell.  Standing under a sun of over a hundred degrees, with no space to move about and no food to eat, had tamed the enemy into offering a truce for the night.  Doubts and disagreements were at work among them.  The better men would not join in violence, without which they now saw they could not carry out their plan of holding these mines.  They proposed to "sleep on it" and begin afresh next day, demanding everything should remain as they left it.</P>
192.sgm:<P>But little Mrs. Caton rose against this.  She said her husband should have food.  She made her way through the packed crowd, a little creature but a great heart, carrying a big basket of provisions and--a revolver.  Her finger was on the trigger as she pushed forward.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"I shoot the first man that hinders me.  You wouldn't like to be shot by a woman!  But I'll shoot to kill.  You've just got to let me carry his supper in to Caton.  You have your quarrel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>And with her uplifted revolver waving like a fan towards one and then another, they fell back and let her enter the mine--some laughing, some praising her, some swearing at her.  She carried not only food but ammunition; and three revolvers hung from her waist under her skirts.  She "stood by Caton."  Then the League set their watch at the mouths of the mines and returned to the village for the night.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The rush of relief at seeing the Colonel made me realize what I had been fearing--and it was all to begin again with morning!</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>He had to stand by his men on the spot.  He felt it already a victory to have warded off action by discussion, to have carried them through a day without violence and without drinking.  All we could do was not to distress him by showing our fears but to help him to go, quietly, and refreshed by sleep and home, to another day of chances.  Then to wait--to wait with a brain growing hot and benumbed with one fixed terror!</P>
192.sgm:<P>If only we could get word to the Governor.</P>
192.sgm:<P>But our expresses had all been turned back and warned that any fresh attempt would be met by a rifle ball.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Then I was told what my two young people had done.</P>
192.sgm:<P>They had had many climbing walks up the mountain back of our house--many rides all about the country-side and with good glasses had studied out future rides on the eastern face of the mountain, from whose uppermost narrow level the Yosemite Falls showed glittering and seemed near, though thirty miles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Douglass had been refused permission to go in the early dawn with the Colonel--his friend's son must not be risked--but stay inactive he could not while danger pressed on us, and so the two thought up this move to the northeast while all the watching was directed west and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:south.  With Isaac abetting, the best route had been studied out, and as dusk fell the dear boy had got off, leading my daughter's sure-footed mountain-bred mare "Ayah."<ANCHOR ID="n4-3">*</ANCHOR>
192.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-3">The Hindoo name for bearer or nurse; <HI REND="italics">Little Henry and his Bearer</HI>
192.sgm:<P>But we both felt deeply his devotion to us.</P>
192.sgm:<P>And it was another strength for Mr. Fre&acute;mont to hope that by way of Coulterville a messenger could get off without suspicion; a day's hard riding to Stockton "eighty miles away"; the brief delay for the Governor's answer--then the swift ride back with announcement of his support.  Fresh horses everywhere were only a matter of money; all lay in the success of the first messenger getting away from our place and the besieging League.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The safe hours of kindly night went all too fast.  With the rising of the sun we were again left to watch and fear; with now the added anxiety for Douglass.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>From one window was a long stretch of view, past the steam-mill and up the mountain-side to where a sharp bend in the road from the mines was clearly defined, its yellowish level and the side-cut glaring out in the hot sunshine.  Often, at the usual hour for the return from the mines, the little boys vied in watching that point where just one flash of the swift horse showed black against the sunset sky, and the level tawny road then was lost in the chapparal, hiding the descent into the valley; "Father's coming!  I saw him first!" was the glad cry.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Now, at this window, with sight and feeling concentrated on this bend of the road, I stayed while the dreadful time moved slowly on.  Isaac permitted my little men to comfort themselves by climbing into a thick-leaved oak, where they obeyed the order for silence--the hush of dread was on us all.</P>
192.sgm:<P>While we watched the mountain-road a new danger came up from the village.</P>
192.sgm:<P>A note was brought from there by a man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>It was addressed to me, and informed me that at a meeting held at Bates Tavern the night before it had been "Resolved" that I should be allowed twenty-four hours to leave the place--that an escort would see me across the mountain down to the plain--that no harm should be done to us and that I could take my children and my clothes.  But that if I was not gone within the twenty-four hours the house would be burned and I must "take the consequences."</P>
192.sgm:<P>This was signed: "For all prisnt"</P>
192.sgm:<P>"DENIS O'BRIEN,</P>
192.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Presdint</HI>
192.sgm:<P>Even in the first moment I felt pleased it was not an American name signing this document.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"They mean mischief," Isaac said.  "They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>He was sorely angered and troubled.  His Indian blood boiled for revengeful action, but Indian tactics made him submit--apparently--for we were at a woful disadvantage.  Myself and my young daughter, two little boys and the two good women who had come with us from home, with only Isaac and Lee and the dogs for guard; that was the whole garrison.  That revenge would be sure and wide-spread was a comfort to Isaac--but revenge cannot restore.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Isaac learned there had been decided opposition to this move against the family, but the better men had gone to the mines.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Mr. O'Brien, President, and his faction remained at the tavern, and if they should grow wild from drinking the lookout for us was bad.  The near chance of meeting a grizzly bear had unnerved me, but a wild animal is a simple danger compared with the complicated horrors of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>To gain time I sent word that an answer would be given them.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Then, back to my watch.</P>
192.sgm:<P>At least the brain had been stirred, and a tide of anger had displaced the benumbing fear.</P>
192.sgm:<P>And later in the day, not from mountain or village, but from the Indian encampment back of us in the hills came our dear English boy, looking fresh and leisurely as though just in from the usual ride.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"Douglax! Douglax!" shouted the boys (what does not the small boy see!) as they caught the first glimpse of his white turbaned head.  An East Indian muslin "puggaree" wound round his hat had been agreed on as the signal of victory--and he sang out a cheery "all right!" as tired "Ayah" made for her stable.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Then, horse and man refreshed, we had details; the main facts of safety and success were so good we made him wait until he had eaten.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>He had started as soon as dusk set in, Isaac's directions and the stars guiding, following up the ravine where overhanging bushes hid "Ayah" as she very unwillingly was led up the mountain at her regular time for rest.  After the crest was turned he could mount; then along shelving slopes with steep descents, to the river; keeping to it as well as giant bowlders and steep, projecting spurs of hills with rolling-stone-faces allowed, he came, towards midnight, to the bend and little meadow where cabins and tents and a smouldering fire showed he had reached the camp, which roused at the sound of his approach; but Isaac's name was the countersign and brought out the friend asked for.  Istantly the news was given it was met by heartiest sympathy and action.  Only the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Bret Harte has peopled this country with creations "founded on fact," doubtless--men with "a single virtue and a thousand faults" (fault is good), but to me the ferries of the Stanislaus and the Tuolumne, the lonely mining camp of the Merced and the remote mining towns tell a better story; of patient courage in work, and a brotherhood for maintaining order and the law--quick as the minute-men of our Revolution in united support of the right, and with a largeness of good-humored generosity special to our far-West life.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Coultervile had this stamp.  They had lately raised there and equipped a uniformed Home Guard, to prevent disturbances and maintain order, and this body volunteered to march over at once, taking the nearer stage-road.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Before sunset they would be on the ground at the mines.  By sunset our express to Stockton would be there; the telegrams to and from the Governor sent and answered; and return messengers would ride through the night so that another day would open upon the arm of the law outstretched in protection over our far-away mountain home.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Our book-keeper had given Douglass blank orders for all outlays throughout--but all would have gone well even without this, for everywhere we had struck the right kind of men--"the true vein."  Men, who at every risk and sacrifice, in those early days built what was best in Americans into the very foundations of this empire of California; not amusing to read of as the Bret Harte characters, but the men who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>How we watched now for that horse at the turn of the road!  How glad came the shout from the oak-tree--how blushing, yet proud and glad, was that refined English lad as we made him tell, himself, the modest brief story of his night ride, alone, with the stars for guide--how our chief relaxed into himself in this atmosphere of home love and support--all was good, too good for words to tell.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"They also serve who wait."  The difficult waiting was almost over and still violence was kept at bay.  Now, the glad news that our expresses had gone through and were already on the return was spread abroad.  It was the best--the only answer to Mr. O'Brien.  During the night we heard angry voices of horsemen riding around, firing pistols, and otherwise exhaling disappointment and defiance.  But our tired chief slept, and so did Douglass; while Isaac <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>As we did.  The better men refused to act longer with the disorder-loving faction.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"When I go gunning next time I'll make sure first if we are after wild-duck or tame-duck," said an Arkansas man noted and feared as a reckless leader; he came to say to the Colonel that as he saw they were in the wrong, he wanted to stay on the place and would do hauling of quartz, "and help put down that Hornitas crowd if they stay fooling around where they've no business."  This alliance was a great gain, and as effective in its way as the arrival of the fine Coulterville Guard.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Soon came the expresses, tired but triumphant.  The Governor had telegraphed that the Marshal of the State would start immediately with a force of five hundred men.  That, if needed, he would come up himself, with all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We had put up a big barn and a store-room my French cook always called " <HI REND="italics">le grocerie</HI>
192.sgm:."  Supplies for months, and for undefined numbers of friendly visitors, were the necessity up there.  These barrels and sacks and many tins and much glass were now piled on planks laid across barrels under the shade of oaks and giant pines (black pepper by the quart scattered on the planks to head off the ants).  Our long French trunks and boxes of delicate clothing (the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Of course there were lingering threats and more or less disorder, but it retreated into more congenial quarters.  And in a brief time all was again safely back in smooth working order; even the Black Drift.  For of what use was the mine when they could not carry off or crush the ore?  Not at our mills--nor in our wagons--nor on the long private road belonging with the works.  So the trouble all vanished like a bad dream.  But it had developed far more good than evil; and organized the good against the evil.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The heat and the nervous strain had told against me and as Mr. Fre&acute;mont had to go to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>As everything ends--" <HI REND="italics">tout passe</HI>
192.sgm: "--I got well, and refused out-and-out to stay in San Francisco.  As we had to remain until the unjust law was repealed,<ANCHOR ID="n4-4">*</ANCHOR>
192.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-4">By Judge Stephen Field.</NOTE>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>To wind up more fully, the year brought round poetical justice; for the judge whose known prejudices caused the expression of this "law" caused also his own downfall by an act of violence.  "Hoist by his own petard" he had to fly for life from outraged public feeling.  The new election gave us a judge who respected justice as well as law.</P>
192.sgm:<P>All the same our three-months summer tour had to stretch into two-years residence; in a country more remote, more isolated, more without any resources familiar to me than I should have chosen, but for all that full of interest and lasting usefulness, and teaching me effectually what one can do, and what one can do without.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>V.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>THE HOUSE THAT JACK BUILT.</P>
192.sgm:<P>NOW that we were to make a long stay the cottage that had served well enough for a few summer months seemed too cramped for winter quarters.  Two boys driven in by stress of weather use up space.  "You can calculate to a fraction the displacement caused by a man-of-war, but there is no calculating the displacement caused by a baby."</P>
192.sgm:<P>Just how, or why, small boys fill up and overflow usual spaces I do not know; I only know they do.  And I know that it is a sad time when they grow up and leave only silence and order in the empty home.</P>
192.sgm:<P>It was planned we should stay on in the charming San Francisco house with its gardens and views of the bay while a "suitable" house <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The local idea of the "suitable" house was the horrid Philistine brick two-story concern out of all harmony with the grand and rugged scenery, the great masses of gray rock and the noble pines and oaks--its pert snug petty-suburb effect would have offended and depressed me.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The Colonel understood this and let me have my own idea, which was to be a surprise for them all, for I was to go up ahead and have everything ready for their coming for Christmas.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The bad decision of the State Court kept every mine-owner in the position of a sentinel, for though the first confusion and violence had been sternly met and put down yet in many vexatious law proceedings both troublesome and expensive to meet, the League continued to harass and hinder peaceful occupation.  This made necessary frequent going to and fro between our county court and that in San Francisco, and I took advantage of a coming absence of this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>All my plans were ready and fully thought out in detail.  I had the experienced aid of the silent book-keeper, the only one to whom I told my idea--the Colonel was content to accept whatever my surprise should prove to be, only asking a certain limit to be observed, to which the book-keeper and myself gravely answered that the thousands named would be enough, and as soon as he drove away we all went to work.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The agent had some years before built a roomy one-story cottage and fenced in about twelve acres, an expensive luxury where labor and lumber were both so costly.  But the result was lovely park-like grounds where the protected grass and wild flowers were in beauty and perfection, and where well-laid-out paths and a carriage-drive looked orderly, and kept order.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Fine use had been made of natural clumps of flowering shrubs and these gave a look of long cultivation to the grounds.  The noble evergreen oaks and towering huge pines needed no care of man to make them beautiful.  Also there was a fine garden; and everywhere, in the garden, on sunny slopes, and all around the cottage was the beautiful pink rose of Castile.  This sweet rose was planted everywhere in old California and grew larger and more fragrant than I had ever known it, even in old gardens in Virginia where it was always profusely grown for the rosewater every good housekeeper made at home.</P>
192.sgm:<P>My idea was to bring together and add to the cottage several large detached buildings of one room each which were in our inclosure; rooms needed for the agency, well built and little used.</P>
192.sgm:<P>By careful management of the ox-teams these could be moved on rollers (the smooth logs were ready and waiting) without sacrificing the beautiful grass and millions of wild flowers just coming up with the rains.  The roofs could be kept to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The silent book-keeper had picked his men, and they were ready; the steady grizzled man from Maine who with his sons had the hauling of wood for the mills--his long gray beard and bunchy clothes making him look like Kriss Kringle as he walked by the oxen of his long team; the capable carpenter directing the placing of all the planks and shingles where they should not break the edges of the drive or hurt the grass; the men who sewed sacks for the ores on hand to make the new carpets and curtains.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>I had had all measures taken, and bought in one of our own towns on the place all that was needed.  The prosperous miner loves an occasional plunge into luxury and nothing is too good for him; hence the stores in mining towns are curiously supplied with beautiful things and luxuries of all kinds.  I had found there fine French wall-papers, fine carpeting and rugs, and rolls of wollen and silk curtain-stuffs.  The dining-room was made the workroom where I directed, and cheerful, pleased men helped willingly "to get the Madam's Christmas-box ready."</P>
192.sgm:<P>Indoors and out it was all activity and gayety.  I had brought up only one small boy, the eldest, whose positive genius for getting into accidents made it best to keep him near me (and I liked to have him).  It was a good sight to see his wild joy over the traveling house ( <HI REND="italics">une maison qui voyage</HI>
192.sgm:!) with its long team of docile oxen minding the <HI REND="italics">gee-haws</HI>
192.sgm:! and <HI REND="italics">wo-ahs</HI>
192.sgm:! of Kriss Kingle as surely as a cat-boat minds her helm <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:in the hands of a good sailor.  And his pride was immense at knowing what not papa, not any of the family, were to know until <HI REND="italics">le fe&circ;te de noel</HI>
192.sgm:<P>We two did the errands--with the best planning something gets forgotten.  Early in the cool December mornings we would go off to the largest town, twelve mountain-miles away, in a strong light carriage, Isaac giving a last look to his revolvers as he put one on, and the other under the cushion beside him.</P>
192.sgm:<P>My shopping was varied.  The large supplies were on their way up, but meantime the book-keeper sent a list one morning in which steel bars to sharpen picks and a keg of gunpowder had part; myself I needed more pretty tea-cups and table-glass and some ribbons and colored glazed cambrics and dotted muslin for toilet-tables.</P>
192.sgm:<P>On the way back Isaac spied a hunter coming down a mountain-side with a deer on his back.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>There was a brick chimney to be built--we had already a large one of stone--and the best bricklayer of the country-side came to put it up.  Everything was ready for him as his time also was limited; it was only as a personal favor to me that he came at all from his other work--everybody was nice and helping to me.  The foundation had been made ready, and willing hands aided him so the chimney rose steadily from the moment of his coming.  He would not come down even to eat, but a hod lined by a napkin carried up all he would take, and when a light rain fell a big umbrella was held over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"No money would ever get such work out of these men," the book-keeper told me.</P>
192.sgm:<P>There was no plastering; the climate did not require it; and canvas well-stretched took papering well; so ceilings were made of it and the wood walls covered by it.  A young man who had been scene-painter at the St. Charles theater in New Orleans had skill and great taste and made clever effects with the really fine wall-papers I had found; cream white and gold with deep borders of dull-reds and gold for the large parlor which was to be also dining-room for the winter as it had a fire; pale blue with white roses for my own room, and charming cretonne papers for the others.  I had found cretonnes and silk and woollen curtain stuffs beautifully matching all these wall-papers.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We made an imposing, irregular, invaluable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The Tree was the bushy top of a fine long-coned pine.  It was another rare joy for the small boy to help choose this and see it cut--see it carefully loaded on to a wood sled and brought into the dining-room to be decorated--to help brush over the long cones with mucilage on which we pressed thin gilt paper, making a cluster of glittering golden cones to each bough.  Then it was lifted into place and made firm and secure--a beautiful fragrant glittering tree with the gold star crowning its rich dark green.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>There were so many and such varied things to do and see to that it was a pleasant confusion and reminded me of an old fairy tale where the Princess has to marry a little deformed Dwarf--who is however an Enchanter--and is really a beautiful young Prince and is just trying her by his disguise.  She walks, crying, in the garden of his palace and suddenly hears sounds from underground--the hurry of preparation for a great wedding feast.  What she hears dries her tears, for she finds he is beloved by the fairies who are all helping and praising him, so she is no longer afraid.  "Where is the largest cake pan?" she hears; "and the largest egg pan, the one that holds a hundred eggs beaten to a froth? for he shall have the largest cake and the most beautiful ever made."</P>
192.sgm:<P>We had the most beautiful cakes that could be made--though none had a hundred eggs in it.  In our village was a thoroughly first-class Vienna baker; the Colonel would not employ men who drank but, knowing good food was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Its fruitage was all ready in the big out-door store-room; cases of candied fruits, boxes of toys and games and picture-books, boxes of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>While all else was going on the piano had to be tuned.  With the family was to come up a very dear friend of mine from New York who was making a short visit to her brother in San Francisco.  Her happy temper, her lovely gift of song and sweet ways, made her coming a great Christmas-gift to me.  Music was with her a natural expression, but the piano was long unused and wildly out of tune, and the nearest tuner was in Stockton, eighty miles away.  Sidney Smith thought he had touched bottom when he was twelve miles away from a lemon--eighty miles divided us from the lemon and many other fruits of civilization.</P>
192.sgm:<P>But we found some new strings and the big <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>97</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The tenth day all was entirely complete and in working order.  Fire was lit on the new hearth and no smoking followed; the bricklayer said "it was a good job if it was so hurried."</P>
192.sgm:<P>The walls and ceilings had a look of solid elegance and the unity of effect made by the same red Brussels carpeting everywhere aided the appearance of a large and quiet house.  A fresh outer layer of overlapping narrow planks had put a uniform appearance over all the outside of the house and the painters followed up closely the men nailing up the boards.  It was "a quick job" all round.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>98</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>But my chief pride was in the windows.  Only the common small-paned sashes were to be had ready made.  I bethought myself of old English engravings, and by putting these small windows by side, as many as a wall would take, we rose from mean commonplace windows to the quaint Queen-Anne effect, and secured a wide look-out to glorious views.  Full straight curtains with a deep frill at top framed these by day, and when drawn close at night with woodfire and waxlights, piano and books, there was rest and comfort for a tired wet horseman to find at close of day.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Everything was now in readiness.  All traces of work had been carried off, and smooth order and quiet replaced the busy little crowd of the past ten days.  There was a smell of paint, and to say the least an odor of much freshness; but good fires counteracted this, and we kept fragrant cedar pastils burning in each one of the rooms.  Everywhere were wreaths of ground-pine, with wild-rose-haws on duty for holly berries, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>99</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>It was the triumph of "making the best of things" we had, and using good taste in place of mere spending.  And it broadened the circle of local good feeling to have our own neighborhood furnish all supplies; so we were pleased with our work and ourselves.  And now impatient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>100</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:to see "the Colonel's" pleasure and his astonishment, for <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"In such place, 'twas strange to see,"<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<P>a home that was full of comfort and <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>..."beautiful exceedingly."<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<P>The Christmas-eve closed in dark and misty before our travelers at last arrived.  They had been delayed on the mountains by a thick falling mist which obliged them to great caution, for shelving rocks and deep gorges bordered the winding road.  Mounted men with torches, and giving cheery hails, had gone far to meet them, and once down into our valley the blaze of lights from our broad Queen Anne windows made a welcoming beacon.</P>
192.sgm:<P>It was a home-coming of delighted surprises--what a happy clamor it was!  And my "surprise" was approved and praised to my heart's content.</P>
192.sgm:<P>My New York friend had no words to express <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The two days travel across solitary plains with frontier stopping-places closing with the risky mountain crossing in the dark made it, as she said, "a transformation-scene" to come out of the night and the mist into this vision of a New York home--enriched by a frontier welcome.</P>
192.sgm:<P>There was but one family of children within miles of us.  They were few even in the town and large mining settlements near us; in the village close by I knew of none, but between us and the village was a log-cabin overflowing with them.  It stood on a little mound where the waste water from the mill flowed by and might have been made a pretty place.</P>
192.sgm:<P>But no ideas of beauty belonged among its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>They were entirely useless but equally harmless people, neither bad nor good, nor anything.  Quite contented in their own way, undisturbed by knowledge of any kind and satisfied with their idle life where a little gold-digging and hunting provided for all they knew of as comforts.</P>
192.sgm:<P>If anything more was wanted they asked for it from those able to give.  Her baby was ill and she sent a big boy running for me.  "Mam wants you to come right away--the baby's in a fit."</P>
192.sgm:<P>Luckily a hot bath put it right.  She was quite silent and impassive as I bathed and rubbed the struggling little thing and only spoke after nausea had relieved it of a long slip of salt pork, and left it again comfortable:  "Well, you air smart.  Your boys look so hearty I thought you'd know all about fits."</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>She laughed to scorn my saying a baby not a year old could not manage solid food, and pointed to her little crowd--huddled around us, watching: "They always eat everything I did, coffee and pork and everything, and I never buried one!"</P>
192.sgm:<P>What can one do with such chaos?</P>
192.sgm:<P>These were the only children within reach.  Christmas and its meaning was unknown to them, but I went to the cabin and told the mother I wanted them to see the Tree lighted and get from it some presents they would find upon it.  She had a dim memory that it was a season of feasting--nothing more--a more complete yet contented blank could hardly be.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Near by was a large Indian village, some hundreds settled there.  The young women from it came constantly to our house and sat about on the grass chatting together of us and laughing as they watched our doings with frank curiosity.  We were their matine&acute;e.  Often we stopped at their village on our rides and watched them in turn as we sat on our horses.  Their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:ways all had object and meaning--the sewing of squirrel skins together, the pounding of acorns into meal for bread, the basket weaving, and they were fairly clean and very gay.  It was a pleasure to give them beads and such things as they found good to eat or pretty to wear and now we told them--with some Spanish words they understood, and much pantomime that they must come to see the <HI REND="italics">festa</HI>
192.sgm: of the Tree they had watched being cut and carried to the house; that they must bring baskets to carry home <HI REND="italics">mucho mucho</HI>
192.sgm:<P>When I put the Cross in the window soon it drew its little following of girls, and some of the gray-headed women; coming out to them they pointed to it with their long-drawn deep <HI REND="italics">eh-eh-eh</HI>
192.sgm:! and signed themselves on forehead and breast.  They had evidently some dim traditional memory from the old Missions and, liking and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>It was hard to induce her young ones to come in to the Tree.  Its lights shone out through the broadside of window and we saw them clustered outside, like lunar moths, their white heads bobbing about as they ran around in hushed surprise.  At last we got them in, hanging together like bees around the tallest boy, silent, but open-mouthed and staring.</P>
192.sgm:<P>All boys fraternize.  Mine began giving to these a lot of Nuremberg pine-wood animals, the first of such things ever seen by them.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"A hog," cried out the big boy as he seized the hyena.  His eyes glittered as he hugged the bow-backed beast to his bosom, and no other of the gifts so roused him.</P>
192.sgm:<P>They made off early to their "mam" with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>As my youngest boy was but three, it was to him also a first Christmas.  He had heard so much of it that his naturally investigating, doubting tone of mind had shaped his own ideas.  When all was ready and the candles lighted he was sent alone into the large quiet room where rose the strange Tree covered with gilded cones and candles and glittering fruits and toys.  He was quite silent.  With his curly head a little to one side and hands locked behind his back he walked around the strange growth; then going to his special ally he put his hand into his father's and said in his French-English " <HI REND="italics">Koom see. Kreesmas haze koom</HI>
192.sgm:<P>Our Christmas opened old memories near and far.  Some weeks after three women came on horseback from a mining camp deep in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"If you had gone away then, the men would have begun fighting and these hills would have run blood.  And now we sleep safe over at our camp because the Colonel stands up for stopping the jumping of our mine.  And now you have come to stay he'll see us safe through."</P>
192.sgm:<P>They could stay but a few hours, but they did enjoy going over my patch-work house, and appreciated all my arrangements and contrivances.  All was as pretty as a picture--and an assurance in widening circles of gentle influences for peace and good-will.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VI.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>SIERRA NEIGHBORS.</P>
192.sgm:<P>WE had not easily reached this condition of orderly comfort.  Our earlier housekeeping had presented difficulties which would have dismayed regular forces, but we were the kind of volunteers "who did not know when they were beaten."  And by keeping on trying against all failures, we won at last, and made the domestic wheels go round with smooth regularity.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Labor was all concentrated into the one channel of mining work, and so long as canned and salted things, easily kept and easy of transportation, suited the miners, no effort was made to give them fresher food.  Consequently we found some unusual conditions for housekeeping; fancy going about it with no milk, no eggs--no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Our garden was run wild except the unfailing cabbage patch.  That had been cared for.  My friend, Miss Seward, has laughed with me over this inevitable around-the-world vegetable--"we left it in fields on fields in our own Mohawk Valley, and saw it everywhere, even in the Valley of Cachemire"; but <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Thy sweet vale, Cachemire,"<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<P>had not sweeter roses than we found taking care of themselves and spreading over the rioting artichokes which claimed their birthright as thistles to possess the land.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Even water, that life-blood of all growths, was hard to get at.  Large clear springs were many, welling up from under projecting rocks, but it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Perhaps the laundry work was our most serious question; for though the two nurses had taken the kitchen and laundry, the heat made both hard for them at best, and this novel bother about water made it harder.</P>
192.sgm:<P>And no money could prevail on any of the very few women up there to work; they were too much at ease in this prospering mining commumity to fatigue themselves, which was good for them while it was trying for us.  Whatever men could do was quickly accomplished.  A big barn and stable, a fine hen-house, a duck-pond, made by leading the water of several springs to a depression and there damming it, quickly gave proper living to our animals and the load of fowls we had sent up from Stockton.  But the clothes began to accumulate into an alarming mound.</P>
192.sgm:<P>At last we got a laundress.  Hearing of our <HI REND="italics">carte-blanche</HI>
192.sgm: offers, there came a group of a man, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Thankfully we accepted all demands: a separate lodging, and their separate cooking establishment; provisions for all the party, and feed and pasture for the horse; and a hundred dollars a month in money.  As an incident, when her health, her housekeeping and her baby permitted, she was to do the washing.</P>
192.sgm:<P>I had difficulty in suppressing my French nurse, who was fortunately not fluent in English--" <HI REND="italics">des voleurs</HI>
192.sgm:<P>"He" was a surly creature, holding himself high above our two colored men because he was white; but not above living off his wife's work.  She looked timidly at me while the unpleasant young man dictated his terms.  Her wistful look and the thin little dirty baby made all of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>But before the month ended, she came to me, crying; "He" said she was well enough to go on, that she could make money now by her washing while he worked in the diggings at Walker's Creek (the last new excitement) and must come then--that day.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We could not help her any further.  It had been to her a paradise of friendly helping, of care such as she never dreamed of for her baby as well as for her own young ignorant self, and now she knew the difference, while we hated to see her dragged back into that fagging tramplife; but he strode off, gun on shoulder, leading the horse, and she trailed after him, head down, carrying the baby.</P>
192.sgm:<P>After this I boldly utilized Indian girls from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>As water will not run uphill, we built the laundry down the hill, over a spring; lining the spring with smooth planking, and leading its gathered waters by a trough into large tubs, each a grade below the other, the water let on by a plug from above, and off by others in the bottoms of the tubs--the whole running off into a little ravine to the happiness of our ducks and geese.  A discarded invention for roasting crushed ore made a capital hot-water boiler, with the advantage of standing outside under a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:spreading oak.  The spring gave its own freshness to the large laundry-room where, after work had grown to smooth habit in her domain, Rose could sit in comfort at the mending, or reading her beloved "David Copperfield," and govern her dusky crew by a shake of the head and an exhibit of the smallest coin, or an encouraging smile and " <HI REND="italics">beuno beuno</HI>
192.sgm:<P>They looked of a different race after they had seen the advantage of cleanliness, and learned to plait their thick hair in a club.  Starch in their own calico skirts was the crowning touch of finery.  A clean white under garment, a bright-colored cotton skirt, with a large gay cotton handkerchief pinned across the shoulders, and the tidy club of plaited hair tied with a bright ribbon, made them into picturesque peasants.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>I had grown up among slaves and could make allowance for untutored people, as I knew them of all grades, from the carefully trained and refined house-servants to the common field-hands; and knew that with them, as with us, they must have nature's stamp of intelligence and good-humor, without which any teaching and training is not much use.  As the early Mission Fathers had taught weaving and cooking to the women, and simple agriculture and the care of flocks and herds to the men, and left in the fine mission buildings proof of their capacity as workmen, so I experimented on these Indian women with advantage to them as well as to ourselves.</P>
192.sgm:<P>And later we had our reward from Indian men also.  Often on our rides, as I have said, we would stop in the Indian village and watch them as we sat on our horses.  The center of the village was their open-air work room and salon, where they seemed always cheerfully busy and useful--the women, I mean--the men went too much to the whites' village; but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We noticed one very old body, too old to pound acorns or gather sticks--she looked herself like a fagot of dried sticks--who was always peeling mushrooms, or carefully peeling the oily pin&tilde;on-nut, which they grind and mix with acorn flour into a cake.  Her one only garment was a scant and ragged old cloak of squirrel skins that did not meet around her.  We carried her and made her put on a woollen undershirt and a warm scarlet balmoral skirt, and shortly after saw this striped skirt worn as a hussar jacket, jauntily, one bare arm and shoulder free, by a young Indian man going into our village.  And he only shook his head <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Their babies had, I thought, a roughish life.  You can't fondle a cradle as well as a baby, and these little ones, tight-swaddled and strapped to flat osier cradles, with a little wicker hood to them, were carried on the mother's back when she went about the country, and just hung up on trees when she was at home.  The flies bothered them sadly; they were not clean, but they were stoically quiet--no one ever heard an Indian baby cry.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Some of their baskets they wove so compactly that they were used to boil waterin--basket-work <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:tea-kettles; others, long and wide-mouthed cones with one flat side, were carried on the back by a strap around chest and forehead, and were of the exact shape and uses of the <HI REND="italics">hotte</HI>
192.sgm:<P>People who of their own accord did these things, could do more when instructed, encouraged and rewarded.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The elder women dearly loved their pipes and delighted in the tobacco we carried them; they added it in small proportion to the customary dried leaves and herbs in regular use.  Great as was their interest in our visits and though they were sure of beads and tobacco and other treasures from us, yet they never failed in genuine politeness; never crowding, or even looking eager, but gaily welcoming us, and offering us pin&tilde;on-nuts or whatever berries were in season with native good manners.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>It was exactly the Bible picture of the "two women shall be grinding corn," to see them pounding acorns into meal for bread (how they did prize a real sieve), a flat stone with a vigorous woman either side squatted on the ground, lifting her pounding stone with both hands, the arms of the two rising and falling alternately in accurate time and even stroke.  The younger women and girls wove baskets, sewed skins and calico skirts and made nets of twine and beads for the men, as well as for their own manes of hair--in their way they were comfortable and industrious and had useful purpose and forethought in their occupations.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Our house, ourselves and our kitchen remained of endless interest to them.  They would drop in a ring on the grass near the open door of the kitchen, and follow all Me&acute;me&acute;'s doings with laughing comments, she with true French good humor indulging them and by lively pantomime explaining--often following up by a portion for them to taste.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Their soft voices would chorus out the " <HI REND="italics">eh-eh-eh!</HI>
192.sgm: " which expressed by its intonation wonder, sorrow or pleasure.  Beef-suet was to them what chocolate bonbons are to our girls--they shredded it daintily, laughing with each mouthful.  The cook kept it all for them, melted into cakes, and to combine enjoyments they would flock over to the tree under which lessons generally went on, pleased and quiet unless Douglass in a boyish fit of fun recited poetry with gestures, when the " <HI REND="italics">eh-eh-eh!</HI>
192.sgm:<P>They quickly saw our love of wild flowers and brought the first of each--even some of their young men brought flowers that grew in difficult places, to the amazement of the white people who met them carrying wild jasmine and larkspur and the tulip-like mariposas-flower to "Fle&acute;mon" as they named us all.  "I'd <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Quite our nearest white neighbors, occupying each a small "rise" by which flowed the wastewater of the mill, were on one an Italian with his wife and baby, and on the other the family I have spoken of--a typical family of a kind now impossible, "the poor whites of the South."  Deprived there by surrounding influences of all advantages, of all chances, their whole pride concentrated in the fact that they were white; this, by the curious alchemy of ignorance and self-conceit, endowed them with complacent superiority.  The swarthy, black-eyed, black-haired Italians they looked down upon with contempt because they were so dark, and because "that Eye-talian worked like a niggar."  He worked a great deal harder.  He had put a fence around his few acres, saved some of the fine trees, and was already raising cabbages and beans when I first went up to the place.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>His small cabin solidly plastered and white-washed outside and in, with its door, and a glass window with a white curtain, showed their industry and neatness in contrast with the dingy log-cabin and hard bare ground of the next knoll.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The "Eye-talian" had behaved well during the mining trouble; he produced a long gun shaped like a wide-mouthed trumpet and reported for defensive duty at our house or the mill; further he would not go from his wife.  Not only for prudent care of her but, he was known to be wildly jealous.  She was many years younger than himself, and really beautiful.  When I first saw her in her picturesque peasant dress, her own young beauty and the noble baby in her arms made a vision of artistic beauty, and Old World art-associations--a true peasant Madonna and Child.  She was never let to leave their little inclosure, but her picture-like beauty attracted me often, and the baby was a little Murillo.  Seeing the man so industrious <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>As for their scornful neighbors, the <HI REND="italics">calhoons</HI>
192.sgm:," my one look in upon them when they called me in to help the baby through " a fit" was enough.  Theirs was a hopeless case of contented ignorance of better things.  There, where every one was getting rich simply by easy work, they lived for mere existence.  Deer and hares and birds they could have in quantity, for hunting was not "work."  The father prided himself on <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
192.sgm: working unless when he wanted a little more money than his fitful gold-digging gave him.  He had made a short dam and collected the water running by his door, and by its aid could always wash out enough "pay-dirt" for their pork and coffee and tobacco; if he needed more he came to the mill and asked a job of wood-cutting, and always got it; the Colonel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The climate was easy, and there was no end to the fine fuel to be had for the gathering, and with a little industry he and his boys could have gathered gold as easily; but they toiled not, nor did they care to adorn themselves even with cleanliness, though nature had fairly endowed both man and woman; both were tall, erect, and easy in motion, with good straight features, and large,clear eyes.  Yet their small log-cabin had an earth floor; the windows mere gaps left between the mud-chinked walls; the bedstead low stakes with a hide stretched across, and a dreadful-looking feather bed and old quilts made the bed.  A wide, yawning rough chimney of stones made a fine fireplace, but furniture there was none beyond some blocks of wood for seats.  <HI REND="italics">On mangeait sur la pouce</HI>
192.sgm:<P>They were utterly without the most simple <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:instruction, and still this woman had some of the instincts and feminine little arts belonging to high training.  Once <HI REND="italics">Cal</HI>
192.sgm:<P>In his place came Mrs.  <HI REND="italics">Cal</HI>
192.sgm: -hoon with her following of children.  Easy, unconcerned, with quite the manner of any morning visitor of society, she walked in upon me and installed herself in an arm-chair: the Colonel being out she told me I might just go on teaching my little girl--"she liked to hear me"; then tilting back her sunbonnet proceeded to nourish the baby and issue orders to the children who stuck to her: "You jest set down there, and don't scrape your feet ag'in the carpet" (down settled many little boys in high-necked tow trousers, only these and nothing more).  "You," to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>All obeyed her.  I went on with the French reading while the cake I had sent for was being quietly eaten by the little ones and the mother, who in one lank garment of calico lay back in the chair and stretched her long limbs, showing brogans without stockings, but as simply content listening to our reading as any lady might listen at a concert.</P>
192.sgm:<P>She did not rise when the Colonel came, for the baby was asleep, but she was so natural and direct, so instinctively sure of disarming displeasure, that she carried the day and left us amused and pleased by her native tact.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"Kurnel, I hearn you was mad at <HI REND="italics">Cal</HI>
192.sgm: -hoon for cuttin' them oaks, and I come over to tell you 'twa'n't him, 'twas <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
192.sgm: did it.  You see he'd got a big job o' cuttin' while you was down to 'Frisco ef he could git it done up right away, and <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
192.sgm: " (with a little feminine toss of the head) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:"tole him, jest take the little grove on the stage road and you'll haul it in quick--an' he done it because <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
192.sgm: tole him.  So it's <HI REND="italics">me</HI>
192.sgm:<P>The absurd contradiction between her looks and her falling back on the privileges of an irresponsible fine lady who feels no barrier to her caprices, fetched us; and she went off satisfied with herself, though promising for the future to keep her husband to the trees marked out for cutting.</P>
192.sgm:<P>These were our immediate neighbors.  In the large town twelve miles away were, as one is sure to find in our frontier towns, an advanceguard of exceptional men strong in heart and purpose, and some fine, patient, hoping women who tell well in forming the community.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Among these connected with our own works were men of education and travel, and already travelers came up with letters of introduction to visit the mines and works, and from us go on to the Yosemite region near by.  In this way <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>But months of isolation from such women as one needs for human nature's daily food, made the long visit of our friend Hannah beyond telling precious.  With her Quaker name and complexion she had their sweet even domestic nature, and a happy overflowing wit and gayety of heart all her own.  Like Charles Lamb's Hester,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Her parents held the Quaker rule<LB>Which doth the passions train and cool;<LB>It could not Hester,</HI>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">For she was trained in Nature's school<LB>And Nature blest her."<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<P>With all, she had the gift of song and a musical organization, which with high training and the best associations in music made of her the most complete, the most enjoyable musical person I have ever known.  We had met often in the usual society ways in New York and our mutual love of music brought us together at many intimate musicales, but now in this odd framing her talent came out resplendent.  And in all ways it became a friendship for life.  The delightful long days in the open air, the charming evenings of music, the appreciative zest with which she entered into the novel interests of the work on the place, were helping and refreshing to the Colonel, while I was in a long good dream of content.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We would make an early start, Hannah driving the light strong mountain-wagon, a man following on horseback in case of need, and go wherever wheels could carry us; making <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We came once on a place that looked as though a woman's care had shaped things; the grass was cut short, and a clean path led up to a wide porch with seats and a table, and the great oaks all around and overhanging the house and corral were very different from the usual stumps which make our national frontier decoration--and behold! there was not a woman around there.  Only men--but Frenchmen.  And a "hard lot" as we learned afterwards.  Isaac, who knew every one, was not with us that day, only a man we had brought up from San Francisco.  But the "hard lot" came forward <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>As soon as the snows were enough off we were to go to the Yosemite, only thirty miles away in an air line, but about seventy by the best trail then open.  It was to be a horseback camping-out excursion, and very careful and experienced men were selected to go with us and make all safe and comfortable.  A pack-mule carried some light baggage, as we were to be away a week.</P>
192.sgm:<P>But when the morning came for the start with it arrived three lawyers to stay a few days on business.  This ended my going.  It was very hard to lose this delightful bit of travel in such companionship, and not to see the new wonderland together.  But I was needed at home for manners, as well as for housekeeping, good as my women were.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>They started without me, all, even my accident-boy; and then later in the day, but quite too late to overtake them, we found I might have gone, after all.  For some requirement obliged the case to come up in the San Francisco courts, not, as they expected, in our own county court.</P>
192.sgm:<P>This was a double disappointment, but I had to put myself down and be hospitable and as agreeable as possible; for the lawyers were really sorry about my lost pleasant outing.</P>
192.sgm:<P>They were taking leave to join the stage which passed through our village about sunset, when I felt something was wrong--there were looks of alarm, more people than usual were coming and going--rapidly.  Though they tried to engage my attention, I quickly found my youngest boy was missing and no one could find him.  The mill, even the village was roused by the alarm, and men on foot and on horseback were searching, but could find no trace.  "Lost child" is a note of woe anywhere, but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Singly, then all together, many strong voices called the dear name.  Horsemen zigzagged around shouting it--myself, holding on to his father, running to Calhoun's little dam where men tore it down and let out the water.  Then we ran away from that terror, again to the mill-road where sometimes he was let to go to meet his father, though never alone--he was so young.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Drowned!--Stolen!--Rushing crowds of terrors pictured themselves to me as I ran over rocks and tree roots, frantic, but dumb.  "For Heaven's sake scream or cry or call the boy!" one of the lawyers said to me, seeing I could not speak; in rough kindness he grapsed my hands trying to break the silent horror that he saw had mastered me.  I saw it growing darker.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Then a cry, "Look up!" and with a mighty shout all cried, "There he is!" and against the red bar was outlined a horse with its harness knotted up about it, the teamster holding high in his arms my baby.</P>
192.sgm:<P>For the first and only time in my life I felt that cruel force, that cyclone of the true hysteric passion.  For days after my throat and chest remained weak and bruised by the prolonged, repeated wild screams that no reasoning or comforting--not even the little tender arms around me could stop.  Then the rough lawyer wet my face and head and tried to make me swallow water--I saw his face and that his eyes were filled with tears.  "Let her scream--let her cry--don't you see she was going mad in that silence?"</P>
192.sgm:<P>And then the rain of saving tears came to me.  How good the men all were; the kindest gentle words.  They carried me to the house, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>And after all it was the mistaken kindness of a passing teamster who seeing the child perched on a gate-post, offered him a ride, keeping the little fellow after it, while unharnessing his team, and not conscious of anything unusual until the calls of the mounted men reached him, when he jumped on one of the horses and came fast, holding the boy aloft.</P>
192.sgm:<P>This incident and the good personal feeling it drew out bound us all together in a way nothing else could.  The protecting instinct is wonderfully strong in American men toward women, children, and those struck by calamity.  Now any leaven of hard feelings as to much land to some and little to others was wiped out by the touch of nature which made us all one that brief, but horribly long, time of fear for the lost child.  And after that I felt encompassed by the delightful atmosphere of kindly good-will.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VII.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>CAMPING NEAR THE GIANT TREES.</P>
192.sgm:<P>BY way of making up to me for the disappointment of not going to the Yosemite Falls we went to the Great Trees near there, a place so beautiful, so unique, that it has now been made a National Reservation.  Then it was a far solitude.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Driving over to the town of Mariposas we left there the carriage and next morning made a sunrise start on horseback with some experienced men to look out for us, and enough pack-mules to carry camp-equipage, blankets, and light supplies for the week's outing.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We were a very light-hearted party.  The Colonel had to stay at home, and made himself responsible for no adventures for the youngest boy who, to his bitter indignation, had to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We were charmed by the pure exquisite morning air growing sweeter, more incense-bearing, as we advanced through the splendid gloom of this pine forest which makes a fitting approach to the Giant Trees.</P>
192.sgm:<P>All a long lovely spring day we traveled through it, stopping about three o'clock where a fine spring and a farm clearing made desirable camping-ground.  We had made only about fourteen miles, but we had to travel step by step in Indian file along the narrow mule-trail, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>They made stretches of clear blue far into the forest shades.  The odor of vanilla was everywhere and we soon fixed it as coming from a low orchid-like plant whose brown sheath of narrow leaves inclosed a single white flower the shape and size of a pigeon's egg.  We were constantly delighted with new flowers, and as we ascended came to the red spike of the snow-flower.</P>
192.sgm:<P>As our day wore on and a little fatigue was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The grandeur of this silent forest, this "green solitude where awful silence dwells," told on us all; trees of six and eight feet in diameter, rising straight as masts over a hundred feet, the golden-green canopy through which high above only a mist of sunlight came, made a cathedral dignity that hushed us.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"This is the forest primeval."<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<P>We came on the farm-clearing toward three o'clock, where the raw plank house, the huge stumps of felled trees, were in shocking contrast, nor did we care to be near the barn-yard.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"Do make the camp out of sight and sound <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>How Hannah rejoiced in it all!  So did I, but I had my long, charming experience of the coast-country camping in 1849, and there is a delight to a first experience that is charming, which does not fully come again.  Our beds were made of fresh hay; on the hay were piled many layers of hemlock boughs--the soft outer ends; one gets critical of quality in tree boughs as bedding; then new uncut blue blankets were unrolled and laid full length across the high elastic pile where we were to sleep in a long row, Hannah, myself, and the children, with little "Fan" as postscript.  It was so high a pile we had to take it with a running jump.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>What a good feast we made.  What appetites, what sleep!  Big stars were close overhead, perfumed mountain air was blowing soft around us--it was too bad we knew so little of it, for I think we all fell asleep while exclaiming in delight over our springy bed, most welcome after the day in the saddle, when immediately it was again day; the tender, serene baby-hour of opening day.  A screen of blankets made our dressing-room where plenty of fresh water with French soap and Russia towels took off the rough edge (and dust) of camp-life.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Then for the breakfast.  A good camp cook can make excellent bread midway between the Spanish <HI REND="italics">tortilla</HI>
192.sgm: and the Australian "damper" by kneading well flour and water and a little salt--no sort of yeast or baking stuff, but strong working of the dough which is baked in thin cakes on a griddle, a most palatable, wholesome bread eaten when hot and brittle, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Then again to our saddles.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We had thought nothing could be more nobly beautiful than the forest we crossed the day before, but the new day brought us into enchanting natural parks of grassy uplands and fir and hemlock growths in varying stages; the layered boughs, tipped with the lighter green of the spring growth, rested in tent-like spread on soft young grass and wild flowers.  It was all gracious and open and smiling with, at times, a break in the trees giving us a glimpse across the valley below of the near Yosemite range.  And in the fresh stir of morning air we laughed and sang and "were glad we were alive," when--</P>
192.sgm:<P>"What is that?  Is that?" and hush of wonder and awe subdued us.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>There, blocking the way as a light-house might, rose the mighty bulk of a tawny-barked tree over thirty feet in diameter.  Solid, straight, uprearing its wonderful column unbroken by any limb for a hundred feet.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Standing apart, with natural clearings round about them, and contrasted by the smiling young firs, they were overwhelmingly grand.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The impression was absolutely new--and without comparison.</P>
192.sgm:<P>That day we only rode near them, taking them in from various points of view.  Extending our ride to where by climbing higher we saw the near outline of the Yosemite range with its further background of the snow-covered Sierra, and beyond, the white glitter of Carson's Peak.</P>
192.sgm:<P>It was after seeing this country that Starr King said to me he felt there that that was the original conception of the Deity--"the first rough sketch of our world--but, remembering <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Our return led through a tract lately burned over in a forest fire, and by the time we got down to our camp at Clarke's Meadows by the bank of the rushing Merced River, we were completely blackened with the charcoal dust.  We had begun with veils, but they interfered with clear sight and were soon in the saddle pockets, and this charcoal penetrated everything--gloves and sleeves were hardly a barrier as our horses' feet continued stirring up the sooty dust.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"Clarke's Meadows," then a far-off and solitary spot, was made a National Park, and Clarke its first guardian.  He welcomed us to his domain and had been shooting us birds and young squirrels, and cutting hemlock tips for our night's rest.</P>
192.sgm:<P>But first we had to get rid of our charcoal coating.  The Merced up here comes down foaming and tumbling over great bowlders of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We had appetites that would have given flavor to our gloves, but the birds and tender young squirrels broiled on sticks before the fire were really delightful, and with pride Clarke drew from the hot ashes potatoes of his own growing.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Again stretched on a luxuriously fragrant elastic hay and hemlock bed, with the tumble and rush of the mountain torrent for music, it was almost too much delight when Hannah's lovely voice breathed out, soft and lingeringly sweet the serenade from <HI REND="italics">Don Pasquale</HI>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O, summer night,<LB>So softly bright."<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<P>Refreshed and full of new life we gave the next day to leisurely enjoyment of this <HI REND="italics">wonderschu&die;n</HI>
192.sgm: land (avoiding the charcoal district).  Before leaving our horses to explore on foot, the cavalcade rode through a fallen tree, the men on horseback having space above their heads as we filed through this tunneled trunk hollowed out by fire.  There were other fallen trees not burned.  One had fallen very recently; the earth was still fresh about its singularly shallow roots.  With a surveyor's tape we measured a hundred and twenty-six feet of bare trunk before the first bough put out.  Walking along the tree to its base we dropped the line which ran out to thirty-two and a half feet, after deducting three feet above the base as allowance for the roots and very slight irregularities where it had rested on the ground.  Other measurements gave a gradual but gentle tapering, but it was eighteen feet in diameter where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>As we wanted to return in one day we were early asleep and on the way by fair daybreak.  It was only about thirty-six miles in all, and for the last twelve we would have the carriage.</P>
192.sgm:<P>That early morning of the return through the great pine forest was something to remember gratefully.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The friendly people of the farm were horrified by our sunburned faces, scorched and peeling on cheeks and noses from the direct light and heat of the thin rarefied air.  "Well, well," one said, "you looked like real ladies, but now you look like movers," and they saw no compensation for such roughing-it.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We kept as good pace as the broken country allowed, and one of our party rode ahead and had the carriage waiting us at the ford below the town of Mariposas.</P>
192.sgm:<P>There was a village of some eighteen hundred Chinese just there by the ford.  They were not allowed to live within a mile or so of the town limit.  Hannah fancied driving through this Asiatic settlement, and it was certainly a very foreign unusual village with perfectly Chinese aspect.  We trotted along its narrow lane of a main street almost brushing the long pendant signs on either side, when we saw a shop-front filled with coarse but gay and pretty crockery.  Our escort had gone on into the town of Mariposas and only one horseman remained; the children were on horseback, and my friend and myself in the carriage with only its English coachman.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The alert Chinese shopman answered our signs and brought out to us bowls and jars--we had bought a lot of pretty common-ware <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>What had we done?  What was the matter?  Burke who had advised our not going through the village made no pause to question "Why?" but rode quickly to the rear of the carriage, making his horse's heels clear the way by digging spurs into it.  He shouted to the children to ride ahead "fast," snatching "Fan" from her little master and throwing her in to my care, as he ordered the coachman to use his whip right and left on the crowd and "get off," while he, revolver lifted, waved them back.  They only fell back as he aimed into the nearest group.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We dashed off as we were ordered; the cries grew fainter, but we heard no shot, and soon had the relief to see Burke following us up the hill, looking back, revolver lifted.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Nothing more came of it than a big fright to us, and for us, and a wholesome lesson not to intrude among such people.  These were miners--mostly the tall muscular mountain-Chinese, such as were afterwards used in tens of thousands in building our overland railways.</P>
192.sgm:<P>What was the matter we never knew.  Luckily we had paid for our bowls, but a complaint from me would have quickly resulted in the destruction of their village and the whole of its people being driven away--when we were to blame for going into their village--this is the law of the strong against the weak, especially where any pretext would have been welcome to race-prejudice.  So we kept silence and would let nothing be said of it.</P>
192.sgm:<P>As we turned into our own gates the moon was shining bright over the bungalow and the Colonel's white summer clothes made him into a statue by the fountain, where he had waited, listening, and relieved enough to have us all back in the fold; and not even too tired--for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We found waiting us an invitation to a ball.  A regular ball, with a printed invitation and a committee of one to explain that our acceptance would certify to its opening a new era of good order and decorum.  The Odd Fellows Association had built a Hall and Club rooms in Mariposas, and in giving this opening ball wished our aid in behalf of their good intentions.  Of course on this idea we accepted willingly.</P>
192.sgm:<P>But was there ever a Ball Committee that did not get into hot water?</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VIII.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>THE BALL.</P>
192.sgm:<P>WE quite looked forward to this Ball and were glad of it as visible evidence of the new reign of order, and respect for the established usages of neighborly intercourse.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We had out our prettiest gowns and decided what to wear, and as the town of Mariposas was twelve miles distant we arranged to stay over night and next morning visit some ladies there, and receive any who might want to visit us.  Altogether it was to be a bright festival time.</P>
192.sgm:<P>When the whole clouded over.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"The Colonel" was in San Francisco and in his absence something went amiss between the superintendent of the mills and one of the men, who did a most shabby and unmanly thing in revenge.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The superintendent was a cultivated New York man, but with the defect of thinking himself, therefore, superior to "Western" men, and betraying this provincial idea by small airs of superiority.  The blacksmith was a young Kentuckian of good family but "wild," who had brought such a letter from Senator Crittenden that he was at once given employment.  As health, size and strength were his chief qualifications he took what he could do and became expert in smithy work on machinery and tools.</P>
192.sgm:<P>There were chiefly first-rate men in all the governing positions, but this superintendent lacked that crowning merit, which comes from nature to some and through experience to many, of taking a man at his best and making allowance for what's lacking; not requiring all to come up to an arbitrary standard.  Where a narrow-natured man from the East sets his standard in place of the more easy larger limit obtaining in the West, trouble follows.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>It did here.  But what was unpardonable was the manner of resenting it.</P>
192.sgm:<P>When the superintendent went, as was his habit at the mid day hour of rest, to botanize along the creek, the blacksmith set upon him and beat him cruelly; not only making an assault on a man he knew carried no weapons, but having with him two of his friends from the village to aid him if needed.</P>
192.sgm:<P>But it was quickly overheard and stopped, and the facts reported to me in the absence of "the Colonel."</P>
192.sgm:<P>I sustained the book-keeper in his intention of immediate dismissal of the Kentuckian--it was absolutely necessary in order to maintain discipline, though as the offender was a "popular man" and the superintendent decidedly not so, there was sure to be personal feeling against this step.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Soon a protest reached me and I was asked to stay proceedings until the Colonel's return.</P>
192.sgm:<P>This I refused, admitting the vexations given, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Then came the further complication that this young Kentuckian was not only an Odd Fellow but very active about the Ball and one of the Committee of Reception.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Hannah felt as I did, that it would be impossible for us to go now.  To go, knowingly, to be received by and entertained by a man who had made a singularly cowardly attack on the chief man of our mills, whose conduct had deserved and received instant dismissal from the works, was a contradiction not possible.  And yet it was very hard on the other young men that they should lose guests they so much wished to have.</P>
192.sgm:<P>I had to write to the Head of the Order giving him these reasons why we should not be able to attend the Ball, and telling him of the sincere regret it was to me not to be able to take my part in what was a good event in our frontier society.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>They are quick to think and quick to act "out West."</P>
192.sgm:<P>Quickly the answer came, fully appreciating my reasons, and asking again that we would come as "the Committee of Reception had been changed."</P>
192.sgm:<P>These thorough people had had other invitations immediately printed, omitting the name of the offending Kentuckian.</P>
192.sgm:<P>An authorized person told me the man's act was strongly condemned and he would most probably not be present; but that he was a very popular man and had a following of friends who were angrily excited and might make trouble if we came.  So that it was fair to let us know there might be something unpleasant--not if the better-minded could prevent, but it was in the chances.</P>
192.sgm:<P>I heartily wished we could keep away, but when all the body of Odd Fellows had gone such lengths to meet my feeling, it seemed I must take my risks to show I valued their approval.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>So we went.  Our good gowns sent forward in the morning to the nice village inn where we were to stay the night, ourselves following in the cool of the afternoon; Hannah and myself in the carriage and, riding ahead on horseback, my daughter with the superintendent, and our invaluable Burke.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We were not in a very holiday humor.  The "superior" tone of the superintendent seemed to have increased and be, as it were, justified.  The committee had renewed their invitation to him and with it sent a manly letter of regret that one of their Order should have so misconducte himself.</P>
192.sgm:<P>I thought nothing obliged him to go.  But he chose to do so and to go with us--though it was flaunting the red flag at the bull.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We were nearing the end of our drive when round the turn of a sharp hill came a small band of horsemen.  At their head the tall, broad-shouldered Kentuckian.</P>
192.sgm:<P>I must say "my heart jumped to my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>To recognize he had done wrong, to accept punishment and to give this evidence that no further disturbance should be made was truly manly.  We felt why he was a "popular man."</P>
192.sgm:<P>We dressed ourselves carefully and behaved our nicest at the Ball.  I had asked Burke to let the committee know how sorry I was to break up any part of their ball, and how right and manly I thought it of the Kentuckian to give me this evidence of his intention to prevent trouble.</P>
192.sgm:<P>And then I did my best to make my being there agreeable.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Such healthy, happy-faced young wives and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>An atmosphere of constraint had prevailed in the beginning, but the good music and the growing enjoyment of the guest changed that into a more natural heartiness and soon it was as animated as need be.  The hall was really fine, and though flowers were not yet grown there, native evergreens and artificial flowers, our flag, and abundant lights in handsome chandeliers made it a pretty hall for any place.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The supper was really beautiful as well as excellent.  Only those who knew frontier life in those chaotic times realize what unexpected <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Hannah's outspoken delight and surprise pleased every one--her charming manners and sincere enjoyment of this "wild West" episode propitiated all and effaced any soreness that might have lingered among the friends of the absent.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The german was not a part of the programme, but Hannah suggested a Virginia reel after the supper and it was danced with great spirit, and a gayety, added to by some of the young men--unmarried you may be sure--who had seized the chance while the mothers were at supper to change the cloaks and wraps on the babies and then transfer them to opposite beds, in short, to "mix them babies up."  The scene of confusion this created was full of fun, even the bewildered young mothers joining in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We came away about twelve, but the others kept it up stoutly until daylight did appear.</P>
192.sgm:<P>And so ended happily what had seemed must inevitably be a big disturbance.  It was a fine advance in popular feeling since the year before when violence had been accepted as the normal condition, and the sheriff had declined to do his duty and call out a <HI REND="italics">posse</HI>
192.sgm:<P>We had our pleasant morning of visits, and making acquaintance with outlying neighbors, and were pressed to visit around to their homes, but the time had come for my friend to return to New York and we had to go home.</P>
192.sgm:<P>She said then and says yet it was, all told, the most delightful three months of her life--that it was so new, so full of large ideas, rubbed out so much ignorance and gave such different views of life, was so full of keen delight in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>It was flat without her.  The lovely voice was only one of the charms lost to us.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Now the weather was growing into the depressing summer heat.  Only heat is too tepid a word to use.  Our valley was a trough between high mountain ranges and the only winds came over the treeless hot plains like a furnace blast.  Even on a marble-topped table many layers of newspaper had to be put between my arm and the table when I wrote, for flesh could not stand the contact of the heated marble which could not cool off in the hot nights--often it was over ninety degrees at midnight.</P>
192.sgm:<P>As I would not go to San Francisco a camp was made for me on the mountain just back of us, in a spot Isaac knew.  It was a steep stony hard climb of nearly five thousand feet, but across the summit, and a little below on the eastern face was a spring of great size, and fine cold <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:water--a miniature lake; and on the long bench or <HI REND="italics">plateau</HI>
192.sgm:<P>A ride up, and inspection decided "the Colonel" and in a few days we were comfortably installed there.  This place had not only the shade and water needed, but a glorious view of the Yosemite which seemed not over ten miles off, though really thirty.  The pure and rarefied air destroyed the distance to the sight.  This eastern face of our mountain, Mt. Bullion, was in benches with straight steep descents, presenting almost a flat face to the immediate valley thousands of feet below; from which rose opposite in successive curves, like some giant amphitheater, firs the low hills then the grand rock-formation of the Yosemite country.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Beyond that still was the snow-capped Sierra <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>We were in real nature.  The birds so unknowing that even woodpeckers sat near on the same fallen trunk, watching us intently and curiously.  And a quail led her young brood regularly every morning to pick up the rice and crumbs scattered about the camp fire.  Isaac was our camp-cook, and like a true hunter protected the creatures he did not need to kill for food.  Incessant, causeless shooting, betrays the novice or a cold hard nature.</P>
192.sgm:<P>We had our riding horses up there and found superb views and most pleasant rides along the level crest of the ridge.  Once up there, a fairly easy way for horses could be followed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The beautiful golden pheasant with its two long glittering tail feathers dragging (as a turkey does) in sign of agitation, did not fly, but just moved aside from our horses; and the pretty crested quail with its tuft of velvety black feathers was not frightened.  We gathered the most lovely wild flowers, fresher, more vivid and larger than those in the valley.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Not a human sound to mar the beautiful nature.  But near sunset a welcome <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>On Sundays we had lots to talk of and to read together--I being an idler had all the time for reading, and there was much to read.  The Sadowa campaign was in progress and we had our English and French journals, war-maps and illustrated papers, and the home mail, and some good books.  Buckle's <HI REND="italics">History of Civilization</HI>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>IX.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>THE CAMP ON MT. BULLION.</P>
192.sgm:<P>AS we were to remain up here until the rains began much trouble was taken to make it comfortable camping.  A board floor, raised well above the ground to disconcert frogs and snakes and such forest creatures, was pronounced indispensable.  But how to haul planks where it was hard scrambling for mountain-bred horses and mules?</P>
192.sgm:<P>Planks were hauled on the mining road to the mines, three miles from the village.  Here there was a dip in the range and the crest of the ridge could be met and followed back three miles to our camp, which was abreast of the village.  Some clearing work was done to open the way, then the planks were lashed to the sides of oxen used to mountain work, and this way the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The canvas roof was secured to four young oaks growing near together; their inner boughs were lopped back leaving only a leafy dome which not only kept us cool with the thick large leaves, but their dancing shadows frescoed our ceiling beautifully.  One wall we lowered and fastened to the floor, but the other three sides were stretched out to trees--giving broad piazzas where on the well-cleared ground our steamer-chairs, camp stools and folding-tables (by oxtrain), made luxurious comfort.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Mattresses also were brought up and were laid on piles of fragrant heather.  A plank set edgewise across the floor restrained the heather and kept tidy the open part of the broad, raised floor.  Experts in tent-life will recognize this was elegance combined with comfort.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Smaller canvas houses with no floor or roof, other than spreading oak boughs, made <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The growth of fine deciduous oaks covered a long space, some miles, and was a famous resort for grizzly bears; their "wallows" were all around about.  With the acorns, the great spring and the fresh cool air, it was a fixed resort for them in the acorn season, which, fortunately, was not near.  For animals are more bound by the "correct season" in their migrations than even fashionables on their tours.  It would not have been amusing to come back from a ride and find the Great Bear, the Middle-sized Bear and the Teeny-weeny-little Bear sitting in our chairs.</P>
192.sgm:<P>But it was all peaceful and beautiful beyond telling.  The grand beauty of the Yosemite country, lying just across from us like a great panorama in a vast amphitheater, was of endless attraction.  Sunrise and sunset made marvels <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The rides were always a delight.  Nature could not be more beautiful and had also the rare charm of being untouched.  It was indeed <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>......"a land<LB>Where no man had been since the world begun."<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<P>With the milk and eggs and freshly-killed chickens came up--on horseback all--the daily mail.  The progress of the Sadowa Campaign became increasingly interesting.  The lowered wall of our canvas house was soon papered over with war maps and likenesses of men making the names since so famous.  Bismarck was lifting the crowns from the heads of smaller kings and making ready to place the Imperial Crown on the head of his own German king.  And we began then the personal interest in the young Crown-Prince who had so lately given the bit of white heather to the Daughter of England.  From his father decorating him with the Cross <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Apart as we were from ordinary life and lifted above detail, great events and figures of history found themselves on natural surroundings among these grand features of nature.</P>
192.sgm:<P>To the great delight of the little boys the service-berries were getting ripe; a larger, more juicy, richer-flavored form of our whortle-berry.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Children who have the disadvantage of only town-life, or the opera bouffe life of "summer resorts," know nothing of the many and progressive delights of country children.  To the town boy an apple is represented by pennies and a fruit stall.  He knows nothing of the education in weather, in patience, in observation of the many phases that lead from the icicled tree to its rosy blossoms, and the little green knobs he eyes without fingering, on to the fully-ripened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>One day in the early morning first one then many Indian women climbed into view from below on the eastern side; smiling, pointing to the big, conical baskets strapped to their backs, and settling to work to gather the berries which they did in orderly busy fashion; going down to their valley at nightfall with full baskets.  But leaving untouched the bushes near our camp, which I thought very nice of them as this was their harvest of a luxury.  They were not the Indians we knew, but even more Indian, so to speak.</P>
192.sgm:<P>They were so pleased with an impromptu luncheon of hot rice with sugar, and a dessert of jam on crackers.  They squatted around the spring--in Scotland it would have been called a "tarn"--eating slowly with many soft laughs of pleasure.  Something sweet to eat and pictures to look at made for them ideal delight.  Pictures of horses in the illustrated papers, especially battle-scenes, excited them intensely.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>This was all that broke our quiet, until one morning after "the Colonel" had gone down to the mines there came a group of Indian men, who made for Isaac's part of the camp and soon were in earnest conference.</P>
192.sgm:<P>I was not paying attention to this, but presently Burke the invaluable (who was always on guard when the Colonel was off) came over with a disquieting message.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The taller of the three Indians was a young chief and warrior of renown belonging to a restless and fighting tribe of Indians to the southwest of us.  The others were his aids-de-camp; they all knew some English and Spanish and our men understood some local Indian words and both were familiar with sign-language.</P>
192.sgm:<P>After many annoyances from, and smaller conflicts with the whites, this chief's tribe had <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>All the Indians their side the range must stand by one another.  Their runners were out assembling the young men.  The long bench on which our camp was, lay on one line they must travel in assembling as they were to come from across the Merced (our boundary).  This young chief was also from an outlying tribe, but, as he said, his people knew about "Don Flemon" and that he was a friend to Indians, and that his women were up in the mountain by the big spring (Indians always know all they need to know).  For that, he came to say we must go down and be safe in our house by the mill and village.  For the Indians coming to join him might not be good to any whites.  They did not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>This was a break-up.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Our own men saw the risk was too great.  "There's always enough ornery Injuns," Isaac said, "to try a little stealing--horses, or anything they fancy--then there'd be trouble."</P>
192.sgm:<P>It was contrary to his ideas to take a woman into council, but the young chief was so anxious to make us safe that he came over with Isaac and Burke when they crossed to tell me of this.</P>
192.sgm:<P>He remained standing too, as they did, with his eyes a little turned away but listening and noticing intently, his whole young lithe bronze figure rigid from intentness.  Perhaps he had some Spanish blood, for he was of higher breed and more commanding air than any Indian I had seen up there.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The one drawback to our beautiful camp, for me, was the rarefied air at this elevation which made me often very dizzy and faint; lying down <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"How soon must we go?  To-day? the night? or to-morrow?"  I spoke in Spanish.  <HI REND="italics">Man&tilde;ana</HI>
192.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Cuando vamos--ahora? la noche? o' man&tilde;ana</HI>
192.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Man&tilde;ana</HI>
192.sgm:," spoke up the bronze, but without looking at me; then to Isaac with one finger lifted from his closed hand: " <HI REND="italics">Una noche--no mas</HI>
192.sgm:."  Pointing over and downwards to our valley: " <HI REND="italics">Anda man&tilde;ana</HI>
192.sgm:<P>"The Colonel" found it wise to move us back home, though the heat was cruel.  But we had had about six weeks of real camping in the solitudes of most beautiful and grand nature.  Enough to leave unequalled pictures forever in memory.</P>
192.sgm:<P>The awful heat was too much and we were all sent down to the cool sea air of San Francisco, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Here the war found us in 1861.</P>
192.sgm:<P>When I came back into my old home at St. Louis to find such discord, such dangers and such malice, envy and all uncharitableness, that the Sierra life with its mining riot, the Indian troubles, all the things that seemed hard to bear there were light by comparison.</P>
192.sgm:<P>I had thought I was done for always with frontier and camp experiences, but there is no "never" and no "forever."</P>
192.sgm:<P>After many years of repose we were again in old familiar scenes, but wilder, more fantastically dreary, more truly remote from civilization than I had ever before met with.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>The sparse settlers always spoke of "going inside" when they went into California, for Arizona was truly "outside" of all usual life.  Now a brief ten years has changed all that; one transcontinental railway crosses it at the southern and another at its northern end, and shorter lines of railroad connect them.  So this old travel is only the memory of a troubled dream.</P>
192.sgm:<P>But there was not a mile of railroad within the Territory when we went there; the Southern Pacific ended with the railway bridge spanning the Colorado--the dividing line between California and Arizona.  A question of taxes rose between the Territory and the Railway so they built no more road until that should be fairly settled.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Meantime you dropped from the travel of full civilization to untouched nature, at Yuma.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Strange-looking nature to American eyes,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A dreary waste of stagnant sand<LB>Stretching afar like ocean's strand;"<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>the tawny yellow of the sand-waste cut by the deep-rolling, dull-yellow waters of the Colorado; scattered about in irregular lines and groups the brown-yellow adobe houses, one-storied, flat-roofed, with door and window mere gaps left in the wall; over all the fierce red-yellow glare of sun-fire rather than sunshine.  Not a tree, not a bush, nor a blade of grass.</P>
192.sgm:<P>It looked like far-away heathen lands--awfully lonesome from the absence of every accustomed home-sight.  But to us came a familiar and dear object--the blue uniform of our army; like our flag it only makes the true feeling it has earned when we come upon it in far-away places.  It meant now a host of delightful things.  We found waiting a comfortable ambulance with its big handsome mules, and the officer in charge of the Quartermaster's Station at Yuma took us to his quarters, where we found everything that intelligence, order, cleanliness and kindness could do against conditions the most unfavorable.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Throughout our far wild Western countries these military outposts are the beacon lights of civilization; they, in their way, do missionary work too--and are not without their own form of martyrdom.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Here we rested two days; then a long farewell to all "use and wont" and a plunge into the untried.  Into an experience that cannot be repeated, for all is changed now that the solitudes are crossed by railways, and with them have come people and busy life.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Deep down in the silent depths of the hearts of most women who have had the life of uprooting and transplanting that goes to make the new life of far countries, must lie the Scotch wail:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"<HI REND="italics">Oh it's hame! hame!  I fain would be</HI>
192.sgm: <HI REND="italics">Hame again to my ain countree</HI>
192.sgm:."<LB></HI>
192.sgm:<P>Often and often I have met this.  Though it was but a passing phase with me yet the chances of separation add to its pain, and these patient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>X.</HEAD>
192.sgm:<P>A "FAR COUNTREE."</P>
192.sgm:<P>YOU frighten me.  You talk as though we were going to the hot place itself."</P>
192.sgm:<P>"So you are, nearly.  A&die;den, may be hotter, but the sea helps it--Yuma is the hottest, I rather think."</P>
192.sgm:<P>Of the four men at table three knew Yuma and two had also been at A&die;den, so their comparisons were from personal experience.  It was a hot night of summer, in Washington, itself a most uncomfortable summer climate, but the heat was alleviated in every possible way.  The dining-room looked into a square where old trees and lawns, and a generous fountain freshened the night air.  A parasol shade of fringed green silk kept in its cool shade those sitting around the table and left <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>Three of these present knew the realities of Arizona and Yuma, and General Sherman, who was about making an inspection tour that would carry him there again, heartily pitied me while he and our host devised means to mitigate the inevitable suffering from the heat.  Beyond Yuma there was no railway, and the most elementary forms of transportation only, but it was the Government's depot for all military <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>A perfect "outfit" was ready for us, and when we saw the mail and passengers started off in the only local transportation to be had we realized the kind forethought of General Sherman and General Beale.  By comparison we should be like Elijah taken up in a heavenly chariot--that "sweet charrut" I used to hear the plantation negroes sing of.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Passengers and mail bags, and express boxes, were closely packed on an uncovered buckboard with four horses, such haggard, overdriven bronchos that Mr. Bergh would have had their ragged harness taken off immediately.  On this machine of torture, open to the blinding glare of sun and sand, the passengers stayed night and day, only getting off for meals or to be robbed.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Seeing this I looked back no more, though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>As we had neared Arizona our train had met that with General Sherman on board.  Our trains halted a little for him to come for a talk with us.  He was just from Prescott (our destination) and had come down from that mountain part of the country in the delightful new ambulance prepared for us, and told us the driver was the best and most careful they had in Arizona.  "And you'll need all the care he can use.  I pity you--I pity you.  Going over that road there were places where I shut my eyes and held my breath.  You will cry, and say your prayers."  He was through the rough part of his inspection tour and waved us a farewell from the platform of his special car as it whirled him back to accustomed ways of living.</P>
192.sgm:<P>Such a journey as we made then cannot be repeated; for two great overland railways now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>PRESCOTT, Arizona Territory.</P>
192.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">November</HI>
192.sgm:<P>"You know something of rough travel in our western country, but never have you seen such difficulties surmounted as bar the way between us up here on this eagle's perch and Yuma where the railway ends.  It is but two hundred and thirty miles of distance, but distance is not the matter.  Sand, rock, heat, sharp flinty tablelands between sharper, rock-covered mountains--always climbing up and up--no water anywhere except at wells ling distances apart, until about thirty miles from here when the small creeks and pine timber begin.  We are over <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:six thousand feet up and a profile of the route would be like giant steps with few and shallow landings--you can picture the climb from the base at Yuma, sixty feet above sea level, to this six thousand feet of elevation at Prescott.  The <HI REND="italics">mesas</HI>
192.sgm:<P>"Begin with us at the military quarters at Yuma; thick-walled adobe building with broad verandas and real windows and doors--very needed against sand storms.  These are on a low bluff above the swift muddy Colorado, while below to the land side lies the mud-built ancient Indian-Mexican pueblo, looking like a damaged brick-kiln, and nearly as heated.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"We stayed with the pleasant lonesome young <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"Our ambulance was a large, high, well-swung coach for four, with the driver's seat for two, all under the same projecting roof.  Six of the finest possible mules, nearly sixteen hands high bright bays, and in every way perfectly matched, made our team.  The quartermaster might well be proud of them--so was the head teamster `Mac,' who was deserving of all General Sherman's praise and who did take all care possible to avoid rough jerks but-- eren't we bruised.  All army things keep to the blue and our coach with its blue body, canvas sides, and russet leather lining was worthy the United States coat of arms painted on the driving box.  A less new and handsome but excellent ambulance with six strong brown mules was for others of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:our party and light baggage, while another six mule wagon-ambulance carried heavier baggage, kegs of water and feed for the mules, and our tent and camp equipage; for we were to eat, sleep and be in the open for eight days and nights.  The teams having to go through without change could only make thirty miles a day; the heat, the want of water and shade, and the hot sand and then rocky way made these thirty miles very wearing.  The whole `outfit' was as complete and comfort-giving as the quartermaster's experience and good-will, and the resources of `Uncle Sam' could furnish.  We made an imposing procession as we wound from among the low-built mud houses out upon the trackless sands of the Gila plain piloted by Major Lord driving himself in a small buckboard with two gay young horses.  Then came the halt for good-by and many thanks for all his thought and trouble for our comfort.  His eyes were nearly destroyed by several years at Yuma.  He had reported their condition to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"We had made a very early start, but it was hot and blinding notwithstanding our thick blue veils and the lowered canvas curtains.  We had dropped into silent attention, to avoid the jerking and rolling which stones and roots and want of any road must bring, when the grinding was changed for a forward rush of the mules, cheers and calls of encouragement from the teamsters, and behold we had plunged into the broad Gila River and the teams were all swimming, scrambling, snorting, the teamsters talking to them a language they understood, and quick all hands were ready for accidents, for the wide Gila is famous for quicksands, shifting sands and treacherous undercurrents.  I know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"We made our first camp on the bank of the full rolling Colorado.  It was good to see even its discolored waters where all else was sand.  As it was still hot we were sent to wait inside the `hotel' until the sun was lower and the camp in order; a small one-story plank building, but with board floors freshly sprinkled.  It had the fine name of `Castle Dome,' but was lodging-house, mail station, store and mining <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:depot for all the mines near around.  To one of these mines was bound a most agreeable New York man to whom we had offered a seat in our conveyance; and in the Castle Dome we came upon traces of another.  We were shown into his room as the coolest place -- the roof and sides were interlaced cactus; the <HI REND="italics">ocotilla</HI>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"Good cologne water and bay rum were by the tin washing basin, and the writing table had a Russia leather blotting book and writing appointments that made you sorry to see such habits fastened to such a spot--more so when there caught my eye over the writing table, nailed to the mast that propped the sloping roof, a little half-worn bronze kid slipper with its tarnished steel buckle and frayed bow.  We said at once `He has nailed his colors to the mast--he will not give up until Victory or Death ends the fight with Fortune--the little shoe must have its path made smooth, and this exile is here to battle bravely, bearing the brunt alone that she may not know the rough ways of life.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"The owner of the room was, we found, managing a mine some miles off. He had lived there nearly a year!</P>
192.sgm:<P>"While we waited I wrote at his table a word back to my own young people, and then wrote our thanks to the unknown for the shelter of his room, and told him what his writing things and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:the slipper said to us--the pretty footprint on these far sands--with a `Take heart, Brother.'<ANCHOR ID="n10-1">*</ANCHOR>
192.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">Two years after I met a lady who introduced herself as "the mother of the bronze slipper," the nicest kind of nice New York woman.  Her son had sent them my note because it was, he said, so curiously true to his feeling about the slipper and to his work.  It is pleasant to know the mine had sold well and it was all smooth for the little shoe.</NOTE>
192.sgm:<P>"By this our tent was set and the sun sinking, and we could go out to our camp where we found it very nice and home-like.  Our capable Chinese, a good cook and a good man of the upper class of trained Chinese servants, had been given to us in San Francisco, by an army family `ordered East.'  Major Lord had had prepared a most comfortable complete `outfit' of folding table and camp chairs, and now by the tent the blue-painted table held its block tin tea equipage, while Mary, trim and tidy as always (with even a white apron on), handed us afternoon tea.  She would come, though we told her it was all so new and different.  `If you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:can stand it sure I can stand it too,' and she has most helpingly.<ANCHOR ID="n10-2">*</ANCHOR>
192.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-2">"Mary," still "on duty," is now in her twenty-fourth year of service with us.</NOTE>
192.sgm:<P>"The young New York man who was to leave us here had recently been two years in Spain as attache&acute; to our Legation there.  We knew his people on Stuyvesant Square in New York and we were all amused by the contrast of our talk with its framing.  The teamsters had made a settlement with the ambulances and animals and their fire, farther back from the river, and off from our fire and tent.  As the shadows fell and the moon came up the sound of the river was cool and gave a respite from the day's glare and wide blank.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"Chung proved to be an expert in preparing tinned things and his grave decorous manner and Chinese dress made him a good accessory in our desert picture.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"I had the ambulance cushions, the others just rolled in their blankets and lay on the sand, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"Each morning (while we were fresh) the great novelty of the whole thing was delightful, but with advancing day and heat I fear there was but the one idea--the getting through to the day's end.  The stern black mountains like monster coal heaps and the strange cactus growths were soon all shimmering in a hot haze and one's eyes burned with looking out, but they were sights to be remembered.  Fancy columns of gray-green growths twenty, thirty feet high all about like obelisks--others like giant candelabra, some like a skeleton apple-tree tipped with tattered old palm-leaf fans.  All these spiky with thorns.  There was one cactus I quite hated, it looked so silly--a column six, ten, and more, feet high, with just one projecting limb--a stupid finger-post pointing to nowhere.  I saw, on the second day, one of these that seemed to move--`the shimmering from the heat makes that cactus seem to sway.'  It did move and as we neared lifted its hat.  It was a man in dust-colored flannels covered with gritty dust who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"The water stations were not pools and fountains with palm-trees and green grasses around--but usually a `bush-arbor' covering a well-mouth with a small shanty alongside--all out on the bare plain; very ugly, but vitally necessary.</P>
192.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"At one place we found the man of the station either had not the water in his well, as he said, or he had sold it--any way we could not camp there.  That was bad, but the mules must have their water; so we pushed for a place he told us of, off to the side of the traveled route, among hills of rock where were some natural reservoirs, `the Horse Tanks.'  Also some Indians, who looked on this natural water supply as theirs and resented its being interfered with.  Our eighteen mules and thirteen people would be a big `interference.'  `They won't like it,' said the water-man, `but there's enough of you to have your way'--a nice prospect for us!</P>
192.sgm:<P>"It was but four miles, but the roughest sort of broken gullied foot-hill country once we left the level skirting it.  It seemed the poles must break in the abrupt descent and steep climb of the narrow gullies that seamed the way.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"The Tanks were in a narrow pocket among steep hills, and as we neared them the mules smelled the water and hurried most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"The three gentlemen to whom we had offered place upon our transportation, the Cactus-man, the General and Frank were all for the time active aids to the teamsters.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"It would never do to let a mule get loose; the Indians hidden all about in the rocks would make short work of it.  We helped Chung get the tea.  There was no wood--it was funny to see us grappling with the tough roots of bushes, for daylight was going fast and we were not to show a light after dark.  Poor Thor was wretched.  His feet got filled with cactus thorns--he tried to pull them out with his mouth and got them in his tongue and through the night his young mistress was patiently getting them out from his mouth and soothing him with arnica.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"All night the men kept guard.  The mules were tightly fastened and watched and were rampageous.  We made off at earliest light with only a cold mouthful all round, but an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"Our last night out it was so bitterly cold in the narrow defile where we camped that no one slept well.  Men were moving about and keeping up the fires all through the night.  It was an uneasy camp.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"The mail stage coming along the next night was waylaid in that defile, the horses cut out and carried off, and several persons badly wounded in the fighting.  Two of the higwaymen were caught and punished.  They confessed having been ready the night before to attack our party, but we were too many, and too much on the alert; not only from the cold, but because it was a place of evil fame (which I was not let to know) and our excellent head teamster was relieved in the morning when we got beyond the long defile into the wide open country."</P>
192.sgm:<P>From that old letter let me tell something of what we found in this mountain town; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:"Far West" has its oases of pleasant people even in its wildest wilds.  We had come the last morning through what is in local parlance "a white man's country"--timber and creeks, fenced-in lands, cattle farms and saw-mills, and as we neared Prescott comfortable farms and country homes; to be met near the town by a most pleasant welcome--quite a procession in carriages and on horseback.  As it was Sunday the people along the unpaved mountain street just waved hats and handkerchiefs, but we felt welcomed.  And when we stopped at a small cottage a real surprise waited us.  Its kindest of owners had moved into a neighboring house and theirs was to be ours until we found what suited us.  (The "hotel" was impossible.)  Imagine the contrast to our camping--the utmost elegance and comfort and such beauties as a grand piano, a harp, pale blue satin hangings and furniture, books in number, engravings, sketches in water-colors, every appointment of a lovely home.  A big key was laughingly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"There is a wonderfully good small society here--people who would be agreeable to know anywhere.  The head-quarters of this department are here which adds the officers and their families.  Some are unusually agreeable.  These, with some of the citizens and leading lawyers, have made up a really remarkable Dramatic Club.  They have built a pretty theater that seats about four hundred people.  The Post band is orchestra.  There are some well-trained voices, and with a grand piano, a harp, and a violinist of real skill, occasional concerts are given.  The stock company numbers several really beautiful and charming women--officers' <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"Imagine this up here where the real savage Indian still lives, moves and takes the being out of white people.  Six years ago they scalped people on this spot.  The outposts of our skimp little army had long and hard work to bring about the present safety to settlements and miners--it was real tragedy then.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"Now a fine brick schoolhouse with a roll of two hundred scholars stands secure, where the Indians held rule....This school and its scholars interest me.  I go every Friday and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
192.sgm:<P>"You know the kind of young men in our Far West who really toil to reach knowledge and training; there are some of these, up to twenty and older, who have only their elementary knowledge of experience in this untouched country.  To them history and biography are fairyland.  You can imagine how grateful it is to me to be welcomed into the class-room by their clear eager eyes, to be asked such intelligent question and to know I have added to their thoughts and ideas in a wholesome way, and that they are spurred to new effort by my interest in them.</P>
192.sgm:<P>"Strangely different, and without new force as this life is for me, I can impart grace and warmth to these aspiring young American minds, and that makes me like my Fridays.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
192.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-193</TITLE>
193.sgm:<TITLE>A tenderfoot in southern California, by Mina Deane Halsey: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
193.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
193.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
193.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
193.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
193.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
193.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
193.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>09-11523</LCCN>
193.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
193.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
193.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>A TENDERFOOT</P>
193.sgm:<P>IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<P>A TENDERFOOT</P>
193.sgm:<P>IN</P>
193.sgm:<P>SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA</P>
193.sgm:<P>BY</P>
193.sgm:<P>MINA DEANE HALSEY</P>
193.sgm:<P>NEW YORK</P>
193.sgm:<P>PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR</P>
193.sgm:<P>BY</P>
193.sgm:<P>J. J. LITTLE &amp; IVES CO.</P>
193.sgm:<P>1909</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1908, BY M. D. HALSEY</P>
193.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1909, BY MINA DEANE HALSEY</P>
193.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">All rights reserved</HI>
193.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">SIXTH EDITION</HI>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>This is an autograph edition of "A Tenderfoot in Southern California," the number of this copy being.....</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<DIV><p>TO GENE</p>
193.sgm:<P>And to the thousands of Angels (without wings) who are contentedly floating through life out in God's country, and to the thousands who live in hopes of some day doing likewise, I dedicate this little book.</P>
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193.sgm:<P>Much has been written about California, and Southern California in particular, as the native or the average citizen sees it.  To the tourist, spending the winter in this garden spot, many little occurrences happen daily, that pass unnoticed by those living here, and to this end, this small volume is offered in memory of the many joys and trials combined, experienced by one of the ever-present Tenderfeet.</P>
193.sgm:<P>THE AUTHOR.</P>
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193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD><HI REND="italics">CONTENTS</HI>
193.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE <HI REND="italics">I.  A Flea Bitten Tenderfoot</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>13 <HI REND="italics">II.  When it Rains</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>21 <HI REND="italics">III.  Auctions</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>29 <HI REND="italics">IV.  Pasadena</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>37 <HI REND="italics">V.  When East Comes West</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>49 <HI REND="italics">VI.  Los Angeles Streets</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>55 <HI REND="italics">VII.  Mt. Lowe</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>65 <HI REND="italics">VIII.  Theaters</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>71 <HI REND="italics">IX.  Through Tourists' Glasses</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>79 <HI REND="italics">X.  Hollywood and Baldwin's Ranch</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>87 <HI REND="italics">XI.  California Yarns</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>93 <HI REND="italics">XII.  Bargain Sales</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>101 <HI REND="italics">XIII.  Arrowhead Hot Springs</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>111 <HI REND="italics">XIV.  Some Things I Bought in Los Angeles</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>117 <HI REND="italics">XV.  Just Dreaming</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>125 <HI REND="italics">XVI.  Catalina Island</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>139 <HI REND="italics">XVII.  Homesick</HI>
193.sgm:<HSEP>147</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<illus entity="a193-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"I staked out a `mountain canary' to bring you for a souvenir, Bill, but I never could get near enough to the ornery cuss again, to untie him."</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<p>A FLEA BITTEN TENDERFOOT</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>WHEN I came out to California, Bill, some blamed idiot who knew it all, advised me what to bring.</P>
193.sgm:<P>He said--(and I'll bet my old pair of suspenders he never <HI REND="italics">saw</HI>
193.sgm:<P>"Don't take any winter clothes out there with you, its such a hot country you wont need 'em."</P>
193.sgm:<P>Wall, I didnt, and by gum, I like to froze to death.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>All I had in that blamed trunk of mine was some peek-a-boo underwear and drop stitched stockings.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I wore a summer suit and a straw hat out on the train, to keep cool, and was snow bound on the way to Los Angeles, and frost bitten, by gum, after I got here.  It sure was a cold night when we pulled in, and as the train was four or five hours late, I footed it up town, to a hotel.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I didnt put up at Mr. Alexandria's or the Van Noose, as I heard on the train they charged you extra to blow your nose, if you stopped there.  So I found a room on Main Street (which is nothing to be proud of) and the landlady hollered after me, as I went up the stairs, not to blow out the gas.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>I didnt.</P>
193.sgm:<P>By gum, I was so stiff with the cold, I kept it burning all night to melt the icicles I knew must be hanging to the end of my nose.  There was only one measley pair of summer blankets on that bed, and the pillows were so small, I came blamed near losing 'em in my ear before morning.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I went to bed with all my clothes on, and the rest of the night I laid there and shook until I jarred the bed, and some fellar who had a room under mine, pounded on the ceiling, and told me to make less noise up there.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I couldnt help it--the slats in the old bed were loose and rattled, any way.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>If ever I was lonesome, Bill, and wanted to go home, I did that night.</P>
193.sgm:<P>It wasnt because I was alone, either--no, not that, for I'll bet I held up over one hundred fleas in different sections of that bed and on me, before morning, and every one of 'em was as big as a rat.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Now of course I dont really mean to say that they were that big, but by gum, they looked so to me that night.  You know I never saw a real, healthy, hustling California flea before.  I could see their eyes shine as they looked at me, and I'll swear some of 'em had on glasses and carried lanterns so they could find me easier.</P>
193.sgm:<P>There were old gray beards among 'em that had voted for years, and I'll <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>I found out afterwards, that they dont bite the natives--skins are too thick--but a real tender, juicy down easter, is a much of a treat to 'em, as a porterhouse steak is in a bum boarding house.</P>
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193.sgm:<p>WHEN IT RAINS</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>THERE are three things in California that are different from the same three things any where else on earth.</P>
193.sgm:<P>They are sunshine, moonshine, and rain.  I might add the biggest liars for the fourth, but that is another story.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I've seen it rain some in my time, but by gum, when it rains in California, its got all the rest of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>It rains in sheets, in blankets, and in comforters, and then some.  Every drop certainly must be a comforter, for you never saw people so tickled to death over a rain-storm as these Californians are.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Every blamed man, woman and child, acts like they'd struck a gold mine in their own back yard.</P>
193.sgm:<P>The kids dance up and down and cry, "Now we can get our red wagons"; the wife will smile and say, "This will bring the automobile the old man promised me", and the old man--if he's a farmer, he's out talking it over with his nearest <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>They aint out here, any of 'em, for their health, altho many a one has found it.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Health is laying around loose anywhere in Southern California.  Its here in chunks, and if you've got life enough in you to draw a long breath, you wont have to draw very many, before you begin to realize, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>California air kinder gets you all over.  Your musty old lungs aint had such a treat in all their life before, and they are already beginning to open up and grow larger, same as everything else does in California.</P>
193.sgm:<P>And when after one of these glorious rains, the sun comes out--I mean the real California sunshine, not a blinking, watery-eyed sun, peeking around the corner of a cloud, and then dodging back for fear some one saw it--(the back home kind)--no sir-ree, I mean the real thing that just beams on you, and throws a shine over everything until your eyes hurt, and you wonder if it aint made of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>It makes the trees come back to life and grow young again, the flowers open up in brighter colors than before, and the hills are carpeted with green velvet, as far as the eye can reach.</P>
193.sgm:<P>And a funny feeling comes creeping over you--they've all got it out here--but for the life of me, I can describe it to you.  You'll have to come out and feel it for yourself, Bill.</P>
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193.sgm:<p>AUCTIONS</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>MUST say I never saw such a town for having auctions as Los Angeles.</P>
193.sgm:<P>For a fact, I counted nineteen auctions one night on the two main streets inside of eight blocks.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Most of 'em were Japs selling out, going home, they said, but inside of a week, these same fellows were having an "Opening" giving away presents, further up town in another block.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>They aint the only heathens selling out in that town, either.</P>
193.sgm:<P>One night when I was bumming around town I just naturally strolled into a jewelry auction.</P>
193.sgm:<P>That auctioneer was sure a dandy.  He sold those suckers--(men suckers I mean)--solid gold watches for $1.95 <HI REND="italics">guaranteed</HI>
193.sgm:<P>There were plenty of women suckers there; yep, bunches of 'em, and they bit harder than any man in the crowd.</P>
193.sgm:<P>They bid as high as five cents at a jump, and bid right over their own bids, until the auctioneer tickled so hard, he had to blow his nose to hide the laugh.</P>
193.sgm:<P>His face was as red as a beet, and he nearly busted holding in, while he kept on saying,</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<P>"Lady, dont let it get away from you for only half a dime.  If you cant use it for cake spoon, you can use it to spank the baby with."</P>
193.sgm:<P>Then some reckless woman would risk five cents more, and get it.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Mebbe when she counted out her change, it was all in nickels and dimes, and the old pocketbook was busted at both ends and mighty flat in the middle, but she held her head high as she sailed out of the store, with a silver plated baby spanker, and ten chances to one, she was an old maid, with no immediate prospects.</P>
193.sgm:<P>But there were others in that crowd--not old maids, but suckers.  Yep, he hooked me, all right, and before I knew it, I had paid $1.75 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>I met Jones as I came out of the auction, and as he had been lingering in Jim Jeffries Saloon (all in big electric lighted letters) I could plainly see that a few more smiles on his part, would make that diamond scarf-pin I had just bought, look like Jeffries sign on a foggy night.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Yep, they have fog in Los Angeles.</P>
193.sgm:<P>The Angels will tell you its "Unusual," but by gum, it fogs so hard here sometimes, that you have to follow the car tracks to find your way home.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I had to pay for several glasses of "Oh-be-joyful," before I could convince Jones that he needed that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<p>PASADENA</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>IN Pasadena, meaning "Crown of the Valley," they have a street called Orange Grove Avenue.  I dont know why.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I didnt see any orange groves when I drove through there.</P>
193.sgm:<P>The avenue is also called "Millionaires Row," and "A Mile of Millionaires," for there are more millionaires on that avenue, than any other street of its length in the country.</P>
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193.sgm:<P>The houses are certainly mighty fine--the fat pocketbook of the owners giving free rein to the builders of the castles, and the glorious sunshine of Southern California, doing the rest, in the way of flowers and beautiful lawns.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Yep, I paid a dollar a head for one of those two horse rigs that stand four deep at every street corner and nail a tourist the minute he steps off the street car.  You know, Californians seem to know us, I dont know why--mebbe we look easy, or again mebbe its the cut of our trousers--still, they spot a women tourist just as easy, so of course that cant be the reason, because--well, any way, they catch a tenderfoot with, "Carriage to all the interesting parts of the City, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>So you dump your overcoat, and your kodak and your lunch basket and your umbrella, and a bunch of wilted poppies, you've been carting around for two solid hours (to please some fool woman who "just couldnt resist gathering the beautiful things") you dump all of these into the nearest rig and also four or five hard earned dollars into the driver's pocket, and set back and make a bluff at enjoying yourself.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Speaking of California poppies.  Of course, as I say, after you've carted a wilted bunch around for a few hours, you aint much stuck on 'em, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>In color and shape they look like our eastern buttercup, only their color is a brighter orange, and one flower is as big as twenty of 'em put together.</P>
193.sgm:<P>And say, Bill, when you look ahead of you, up on the side of a little sloping hill, at the foot of the mountains, and see a solid carpet of these flowers as big as a city block, and bigger--it kinder makes you draw a long breath, and feel funny inside.</P>
193.sgm:<P>You know the feeling you get when some one flings the old "Stars and Stripes" out in a good stiff breeze--you know Bill, something kinder <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>This last dont apply to the golden beauties on trees--California oranges.  To these you are <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
193.sgm: welcome, not even if it would give you the pleasure of saying "you picked them off the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>You know, its a surprise to me that these Californians who are eternally hooping up the glorious climate, on paper and otherwise, and spending a whole lot of money shipping East printed folders by the carload, to get the California Bee, buzzing in your head, until you'd almost give the farm away to get rid of it--you want to go to California so bad--you know, its a wonder to me that some of the fellars that have the most say so in the Angel City, dont buy an orange grove at some bargain sale price, and allow all tourists holding return tickets East, the privilege of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>That would be the biggest advertisement Los Angeles ever dreamed of, and it would beat reading over a lot of some other fellars ideas, all to holler.</P>
193.sgm:<P>New Years day I went over to Pasadena to the Tournament of Roses.  This is a "doings" held in the Crown City every year, and the natives and tourists for miles around come to admire the show.  Just why it is called the Tournament of Roses, I dont know.  To be sure, there are some roses, more carnations, and mostly geraniums.  But right here let me say that the geraniums in California, are the finest flowers you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>A hedge of these scarlet beauties beat a hedge of bum roses any time and any where, even back home in Illinois.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Them's my sentiments, only dont let the editor of the home paper get hold of it, Bill.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I owe him a little money and I dont want to get him riled up.</P>
193.sgm:<P>The floats were all right, and some pretty girls, a few, were mixed in among the flowers, but Los Angeles flowers and Los Angeles girls knock 'em all to holler.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>45</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>The Tournament or the flowers or the girls aint a smell side of the Fiesta the Angel City hands out to visitors each year in May.  It's the prettiest thing you could ever dream about, Bill, and that aint no printed folder talk either.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I've seen two of 'em and hope to see a good many more before I die.  In some few ways Pasadena is ahead of Los Angeles.  Its the only spot in the country whose citizens, as a whole, think there is no place like it.  A while back they had a revival meeting in town.</P>
193.sgm:<P>There was a good sized attendance and after they had all got pretty well worked up, the preacher shouted, "Now all you folks that want to go to Heaven, stand up."</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>46</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>All jumped to their feet, except one little fellar, who stuck his hands in his pockets, and kept his seat.</P>
193.sgm:<P>The preacher looked at him mighty hard and called out,</P>
193.sgm:<P>"Do you mean to tell me you dont want to go to Heaven?"</P>
193.sgm:<P>"Nope," he answered, "Pasadena is good enough for me."</P>
193.sgm:<P>And that is about the way they all feel that live here--good enough for them.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I heard one of 'em say once he'd rather be a California jackrabbit, than a New York millionaire.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<p>WHEN EAST COMES WEST</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>THE N.E.A. was out here a year or so ago, and they certainly had a great time.  They were all in on anything that was free, and almost everything was open to them, and no questions asked.  A fellar that runs a tamale wagon told me a good story about them while they were here, and I'll tell it to you.</P>
193.sgm:<P>A bunch of women members went into a cheap popular resturant, where <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>"Needn't a told me," he grunted.</P>
193.sgm:<P>"And we are here with the N. E. A.," was added.</P>
193.sgm:<P>"Sure," he said, without taking any interest.</P>
193.sgm:<P>"We would like to patronize your resturant," she continued.</P>
193.sgm:<P>"All right," he said, looking out of the window.</P>
193.sgm:<P>"We shall remain here about two weeks, and if we come here we would like to get rates."</P>
193.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Rates</HI>
193.sgm:?  On a ten cent meal?  Soup, meat, vegetables, ice cream and coffee?  Say woman, I've seen cheap guys in pants, but a female what will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
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193.sgm:<p>LOS ANGELES STREETS</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>I GOT into Los Angeles in ample time to go through their annual tearing up period.</P>
193.sgm:<P>You know, there is something funny about this.  Just as soon as winter comes, Los Angeles begins to tear up its streets from one end to the other.</P>
193.sgm:<P>All summer long, when mighty few strangers are in town, there is nothing doing.  But just as sure as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>It is just the same, year in and year out.  Its got to be a joke with the tourists, for Los Angeles wouldnt look natural to 'em, when they come out to spend the winter, if the whole shopping district wasnt well nigh impassable.</P>
193.sgm:<P>They will finish putting down a macadamized street one day, and by jingo, during the following night, I'll be hanged if some fellar hasnt figured out how to tear it up.  Needn't take my word for it, Bill.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Here's another fellar kicking through the columns of a Los Angeles paper.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>57</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>SPEED THE DAY!<LB>Will there ever come a season,<LB>When the workmen will abstain<LB>From ripping loose the asphalt<LB>On Broadway, Spring and Main?<LB>Speed the happy, gladsome morning,<LB>When with joy our brimming cup<LB>Will slop over, with this edict:</HI>
193.sgm:<P>DO NOT TEAR</P>
193.sgm:<P>THIS</P>
193.sgm:<P>PAVEMENT UP!</P>
193.sgm:<P>After you've cussed yourself sick, trying to squirm your way under horses' noses and women's four-story hats--falling over a couple of hundred little wooden saw-horses the workmen stick up any old place in the middle of the street, while they patch up a few dozen holes--go and hire an automobile at $4.00 per hour <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>58</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>The country and residence portion is all right--glorious sunshine and views, and the finest, clearest air that ever dusted out the cobwebs in your lungs, but suffering Peter, the roads--the roads!!  Bill,  I never worked so hard and paid $4.00 an hour for the privilege of doing so, in all my life--never!</P>
193.sgm:<P>We hit every chuck hole from Pasadena to the ocean.  Now, when I tell you this, it means a whole lot more to me, than it does to you, for it is a sore subject to look back on, I tell you.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>59</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>They have more varieties of "Bullyvards" around Los Angeles, than that man Heinz has pickles--57 varieties wouldnt cover 'em.</P>
193.sgm:<P>There are little holes and big holes, long holes and short holes, holes you fall in all over, and the kind you pull in after you, on your way down.  There are mud holes, water holes, oil holes, dust holes, in fact, Bill, every known variety of chuck holes you ever thought of, can be found in and around Los Angeles.</P>
193.sgm:<P>And mud?</P>
193.sgm:<P>You have to spell the Los Angeles kind M-u-d-d, to have anyone half realize the meaning of the word.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Some of the wholesale streets of Los Angeles can boast of mud that will reach the hub of any ordinary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>60</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>The Suburban cars have to pass through these streets, on the way to Los Angeles.  I heard a native and a tenderfoot talking on a Pasadena car one day, while the car was going through Aliso street.</P>
193.sgm:<P>The native was telling what a great and wonderful city Los Angeles was--all true, every word of it.</P>
193.sgm:<P>While he was talking, he happened to get a side view of the quiet listeners face.  He saw that his eyes and mouth were wide open in amazement at the numerous mud-stuck wagons by the side of the road, and quickly said,</P>
193.sgm:<P>"You see, we Californians never <HI REND="italics">dreamed</HI>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>61</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>And the little fellar answered, "Wall, stranger, its about time for some one to box your ears and tell you to wake up."</P>
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193.sgm:<p>MT. LOWE</P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>AS all tenderfeet are expected to do, I took the trip up Mt. Lowe.  Its all right, that trip is, except that it makes you feel that if you ever get down on the level again you'll go to church a little oftener, and be prepared for the next world.</P>
193.sgm:<P>By gum, there are spots on that trip, and then some!</P>
193.sgm:<P>I went up with a fellar named <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>You see, Bill, at the bottom of that incline, there's a solid wall of rock, fifty feet high, not more than twenty-five feet from where those cable cars stop.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Yes-sir-ree, I got to thinking that if anything busted, and we shot back down hill, they would never be able to tell which was me and which was Smith when they gathered us up to ship back East in the baggage car.</P>
193.sgm:<P>You bet I kept my mouth shut and I guess I held my breath too, for someway I kinder felt that too much laughing and loud talking would jar that dinky car and mebbe loosen something.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>I was mighty glad when I reached level ground at the top of the incline.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Then began a foot race for another dinky car, a bobbed tail electric this time, that takes you on further up the mountain to Mt. Lowe.  There were about seventy-five people all trying at once to get into one lonesome little car, that groaned with only twenty-five aboard, but they all got on somehow or somewhere, and the rest of the ride we wiggled up and down, in and out, around corners and across squeaking little bridges, that looked like they'd go down for a cent and a half, and all the time everybody was "oh-ing" and "ah-ing" and no wonder.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Say Bill, if you ever get to California, dont miss this trip.  They <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Be sure and take your mother-in-law along, Bill, and half way up that incline, if there's anything on earth you want, ask her for it, while you are hanging onto the side of the mountain at an angle of 65 degrees.</P>
193.sgm:<P>You'll get it all right, if she's got wind enough left to say, "Yep!"</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<p>THEATERS</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES has a lot of theaters all the way from 5 cents to $2.50 a seat.  I took in more of the 5 cent kind than the $2.50 variety.</P>
193.sgm:<P>There are two Opera Houses in town, one on Main Street and one on Broadway, and you get a good deal more for your money at the Main Street show, than at the other.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I blew myself just once for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>The only thing I remember, worth remembering at that Broadway Opera House, were two white cardboard signs 3 x 5 feet, one on each side of the house, where everybody up stairs, down stairs and in the "lady's chamber" could read them, saying,</P>
193.sgm:<P>NOTICE</P>
193.sgm:<P>DONT SPIT ON THESE FLOORS</P>
193.sgm:<P>They say they are great spitters, these Californians--mebbe they are, I dont know.</P>
193.sgm:<P>They also have little metal boxes on the back of each seat, and by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>By gum, I played that machine in front of me, three times--thirty cents--and nothing happened.  So I tried the next one, and got a box of chocolates, that, honest, Bill, if one of 'em hit you, it would knock you down.</P>
193.sgm:<P>They had been there, well, some fellar said, since the Opera House was built.  I dont know.  I gave them to a kid in front of me that had the "wiggles" and they kept him busy the rest of the show.</P>
193.sgm:<P>They say a Los Angeles man will sell everything he owns if he can get his price for it, and b'gosh, I believe it.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Yes sir, everything he owns, except his wife, and between you and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Los Angeles is a great town for "swaps."</P>
193.sgm:<P>The papers every Sunday are full of 'em.</P>
193.sgm:<P>They'll swap anything from a half worn out tooth brush or a moth eaten angora cat, to a ten acre orange grove with a nine thousand dollar mortgage on it, and some of 'em would sell the shirt on their back, if they could make a profit on it.</P>
193.sgm:<P>You know, Bill, I believe you could even make a good trade on your mother-in-law out here--nothing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Of course that might seem awful cheap for her, but old hens aint worth much out here--market is overstocked, and besides, Californians aint looking for trouble.</P>
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193.sgm:<p>THROUGH TOURISTS' GLASSES</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>I HEARD two tenderfeet talking on the way up town from the depot the other day.</P>
193.sgm:<P>At almost every street corner in Los Angeles, you'll find little tamale wagons standing.</P>
193.sgm:<P>One fellar saw the sign, "Tamales" and asked the other one what they were.</P>
193.sgm:<P>"Oh, they're a kind of bird they have out here," he said, looking very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>"Figueroa Street," jerked out the conductor, and the tourist nodded wearily, as he grunted something about "the damned dago names out here, anyway."</P>
193.sgm:<P>Speaking of street cars, Bill, I've got to give Los Angeles the whole palm tree for having the finest street car service in the country.</P>
193.sgm:<P>There are more cars, going in more directions, than you can imagine, and they also have more home made rules, than any street car company in the country.</P>
193.sgm:<P>When tourists come to town they sit up and take notice of the wonderful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>If you should forget to ask for a transfer the minute you drop a nickel into the dirtiest paw you ever saw on a man, then you've paid your way into the circus, and the fun begins.</P>
193.sgm:<P>If the passenger happens to be a big fellar, and could without any effort knock the smart conductor down, he'll only get a hard look and his transfer--if its a little fellar, that couldn't lick a fly that was stuck on sticky fly paper, he'll shrivel him up to the size of a peanut in just about two seconds.</P>
193.sgm:<P>If its a woman, and a fat and sassy one, he'll kinder back off and tell her to ask for her transfer when she pays her fare, and all he'll get out of it, is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>But the tired little woman, with a lot of "cash and no delivery" groceries piled up in her lap, who is getting home from work, and who is so done up, she hasnt got life enough left in her to care whether a man smokes in her face or not--she gets hers in bunches, and then some.</P>
193.sgm:<P>After he has jawed until his tongue aches, and has spit out everything he has in his mouth, except a big chew of tobacco, he shoves the transfer under her nose, and leaves her wondering why the good Lord ever made such a thing and called it "Man."</P>
193.sgm:<P>The other day I heard a smart aleck say to a woman passenger, "I dont remember getting any fare from you."</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>"Dont you," she snapped back, "Wall <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
193.sgm:<P>He didnt have anything further to say, and went back and knocked down a few more fares.</P>
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193.sgm:<p>HOLLYWOOD AND BALDWIN'S RANCH</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>HOLLYWOOD is another mighty pretty place just out of Los Angeles.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Beautiful homes and well kept places are plentiful there.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Of course the town has its drawbacks--all little towns that are run by some of its prominent citizens, do have.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Say, Bill, you have to get a prescription from the doctor, before you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Fact!</P>
193.sgm:<P>Cant even drink home made "Hires Root Beer" in your own house unless you ask a trustee about it, and honest, he'll help you drink a bottle of it, and then haul you off to jail for treating him.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Now out at Lucky Baldwin's Ranch its different.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Everybody knows of Baldwin's Ranch and the town of Arcadia he's laid out.</P>
193.sgm:<P>If I was a poet, Bill, I could write poetry about Baldwin's Ranch, but I aint, so let it go at that.</P>
193.sgm:<P>You can drive for miles and miles in any direction, and they'll tell you, you are still in Baldwin's Ranch.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>They make the finest apricot brandy out there, and sell the best beer, I've tasted in many a day.</P>
193.sgm:<P>You dont have to get a doctor's prescription to get a glass of it, either--you may need a doctor before you've been there very long, for everything is open house at Baldwin's, and its "eat, drink and be merry" in Arcadia.</P>
193.sgm:<P>He's got a race track, called Santa Anita Park, thats worth travelling some to see.  Its big and broad in every way, just as everything else is the old man has a hand in.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I believe the view from that grand stand cant be beaten on earth, and it must tickle the old fellar to look over it and say "Its all mine."</P>
193.sgm:<P>They say it was the dream of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Yep, I won instead of lost, the day I went out to see the ponies run--mebbe things out there wouldnt have looked so fine to me, if I had come home busted.</P>
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193.sgm:<p>CALIFORNIA YARNS</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>YOU know, Bill, California has the name of being the home of the biggest liars on earth, but that dont mean the "birthplace" of 'em, b'gosh.</P>
193.sgm:<P>When you come to think of it, most of the people out here came from the East and they are the ones that are doing the lying, not the natives.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Old Sam Watkins, who used to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>94</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>He told me more double-back-action lies in five minutes, than you could count on both hands, and feet, too, and sir, he never turned a hair doing it.</P>
193.sgm:<P>When he told me about "oysters growing on trees" out here, somewhere, I had to say, "Why, Samuel!  How can you lie so!"</P>
193.sgm:<P>He says its a fact!</P>
193.sgm:<P>Mebbe it is--I dont know.</P>
193.sgm:<P>He also told me of a fellar out here, who planted some pumkin seeds, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>95</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Well, now you know, Bill, when a deacon of a church, tells you such fairy tales as that, you can imagine what an every day citizen of Los Angeles can fire at you.</P>
193.sgm:<P>He told me one more.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Once when they had a thunder storm out here, the lightening struck a mother hen, with eight little chicks under her, and killed every blamed one of 'em, but never hurt the old hen a bit.</P>
193.sgm:<P>By gum, now I come to think of it, I'll bet a doughnut, that was the very old hen I had served to me one day, out at Casa Verdugo, for a spring chicken.  Casa Verdugo is a mighty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>96</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>No-sir-ree, thunder and lightening wouldnt have any effect on that hen, for I tried every thing from a pocket knife to a saw, I tipped the waiter for, and then couldnt see where I had made any headway, even on the white meat.</P>
193.sgm:<P>After I'd sweat so you could wring out my undershirt, I gave up, and ordered some tamales.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I got 'em, and they were bully but only those who have eaten "hot tamales," at Casa Verdugo, will understand and marvel how I could have lived to tell the tale, when I say I ate six of 'em, before I threw up my hands and told the waiter to turn on the hose.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:<P>If the place that never freezes over, is any hotter than those tamales were, I'm going to travel the "straight and narrow path," mighty carefully the rest of my days.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I aint going to take any chances--no-sir-ree.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I'll send one home for your mother-in-law, Bill.  Put in a little extra cayenne pepper, and a dash of Tobasco sauce,--as the cook books say--then take a trip out of town for a few days, until the hot spell blows over.</P>
193.sgm:<P>One of 'em <HI REND="italics">ought</HI>
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193.sgm:<P>BARGAIN SALES</P><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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193.sgm:</PAGEINFO>	</DIV><DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES is the greatest town for bargain sales.  One store or another, has 'em every day out here.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I got into the middle of a stocking sale once, and when I got out, and took account of stock, I didnt have all the clothes on I started in with, but I had two pairs of women's polka dotted stockings wound around my neck, and another pair in my pocket.</P>
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193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Its a wonder I wasnt arrested for shop-lifting.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I never saw such actions in all my life, Bill.  Women, big and little, grabbed and pulled and hauled, and grunted and groaned, and seesawed back and forth, each one trying to spend some poor devil-of-a-husbands' hard earned dollars, while he was racing around town trying to "do" some other poor devil, to make both ends meet.  Mebbe the hat he wore was last years and his shoes were out at the sides, and run down at the heels, but his wife was a close buyer and would, no doubt, bring him home a pair of light green socks, embroidered in yellow polka dots.</P>
193.sgm:<P>In the scramble, one woman got hold of a single stocking, and another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>103</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>And do you think either woman would give up her stocking?</P>
193.sgm:<P>Not much!</P>
193.sgm:<P>The clerk called the floor walker and he called the manager, but there was nothing doing.  One of 'em said "she wouldnt let that piefaced female have that stocking if they called the police."</P>
193.sgm:<P>So they each paid for one stocking and kept it.</P>
193.sgm:<P>One woman bought seventeen pairs.</P>
193.sgm:<P>"A woman cant have too many pairs of stockings," I heard her say.  "This nasty yellow pair, I'll save until next Christmas and give 'em to Mrs. Brown, to pay her for that old <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>104</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Think of it, Bill--seventeen pairs of stockings these hard times--I'm glad I aint married, b'gosh.</P>
193.sgm:<P>The Angel City has plenty of mighty fine stores, barring a few whose bargain sales (in big red letters) are carried on midway a dinky little entrance door, where customers have to crowd and push their way through a bunch of half baked females buying real lace at 2 cents a yard.</P>
193.sgm:<P>For a solid half hour, these women will stand, first on one foot and then on the other, hanging onto their bargain like a bull pup to an unwelcome pair of pants, waiting for a not over bright, gum chewing girl, who is frantically trying to add up nine times <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Oh, I tell you Bill, its all very well to make fun of women going to bargain sales.  If they <HI REND="italics">do</HI>
193.sgm:<P>Just one genuine bargain sale would lay out any strong man in about thirty seconds, and yet a frail and delicate woman, who cant possibly do her own housework, will get up before daylight so she can be down to the stores before the doors open, and for two mortal hours, she'll push and shove and squirm her way through a barricade of bargain crazy females, the sight of which would turn back a crowd of husky football players any day.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Packed in like sardines, around a 2 x 4 table, grandmothers and grandchildren, wedged in three and four deep, are panting and struggling, as they blindly push an arm through a small opening and grab hold of anything they can reach on the table.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Whatever they grab, they hold onto, for fear they wont get hold of anything else.</P>
193.sgm:<P>And when they get it home, and come to their senses, they wonder what in thunder they bought it for, anyway.  The poor over worked husband uses a stronger word than "thunder," but her word means just as much to her, Bill, and its more ladylike.</P>
193.sgm:<P>And for a free sample of "Zee-Nut" she will charge to the front of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>You never saw a woman get three feet beyond a "Free" sign, Bill, without turning around and going back, to ask, "What is?"</P>
193.sgm:<P>No-sir-ree.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Its just as impossible for her to do it, as it is for her to rub her eye, without opening her mouth at the same time.</P>
193.sgm:<P>They <HI REND="italics">have</HI>
193.sgm:<P>Zee-Nut is a Los Angeles production, and only one of the many good things she has a right to swell up over.  Its a mixture of popcorn, cocoanut and honey, and will shut up a snarling kid, and take the kinks out of a mean disposition, at the first bite.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>True, I broke a tooth off once, eating some of it, but a "Didnt hurt a bit," dentist, whose smiling face I'd know if I met it in a custard pie, in a "come-back" resturant--dug out the roots for me, and didnt hurt a bit--mebbe!</P>
193.sgm:<P>Once when I felt he had gone down about three feet, and was still going, I asked him if he thought he was boring for oil, or just digging post holes.</P>
193.sgm:<P>That fellar ought to strike oil some day, for he certainly wasnt afraid of work.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I'll bet, Bill, if he ever finds a fellar with a big enough mouth, he'll get into it with a pick and shovel and locate some mining claims before he quits.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<p>ARROWHEAD HOT SPRINGS</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>ARROWHEAD Hot Springs is another place I visited.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Its a beautiful spot--aint no place up there to spend your money, except to give it to the landlord, and anyone else standing around.  Funny--the hotel folder reads, "No tips allowed.  Any employee accepting same will be fired."  But they were all fire proof, I found.</P>
193.sgm:<P>No, there aint much excitement <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>By gum, Bill, you have to hold your nose to get any where near the dipper.</P>
193.sgm:<P>The water is scalding hot, and they said you could boil an egg in it.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Of course they didnt, Bill, but I'm only trying to give you a faint idea of how bad that water smells.</P>
193.sgm:<P>The Arrowhead itself is worth going miles to see, and some day the hotel people will make every tourist that arrives put on blinders and charge 'em two bits for a view of it.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<p>SOME THINGS I BOUGHT IN LOS ANGELES</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>I BOUGHT a set of monkey triplets in a Japanese store for two bits.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Two bits, Bill, is Californese for twenty-five cents.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I got bit on 'em, too, for they sold 'em as low as five cents a set, later in the season, and at last gave 'em away with a package of Japanese incense.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Now, Japanese incense, Bill, is a lot of stuff pressed together hard, like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>118</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Glue, old rubber boots, out of date eggs, last years hamburger and over ripe limburger--all these and a few more, were never in their most "smelly" days, guilty of "acting up," like real Japanese incense burning.</P>
193.sgm:<P>These little monkeys I bought, come in all sizes, from the little baby monks, to the old grandaddies.  They all sit up in a row, three of 'em, and one has his hands over his ears, the second covering his eyes, and the third has his hands over his mouth.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>I say "his," Bill, because they must certainly be boy monkeys--a girl monkey, would never live long enough to have her first picture made, if she had to close her mouth, and her ears, and her eyes.  You know that yourself, Bill.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I asked the grinning Jap, I bought em of, what they were up to.  All I could get out of him was, that they were the "three wise monkeys," and meant, "I hear no evil, see no evil, and speak no evil."</P>
193.sgm:<P>Mebbe they dont--I dont know.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I also bought a flea scratcher, at the same store.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Never heard of one, did you?</P>
193.sgm:<P>Waal, they are little carved ivory hands about as big as a half dollar, with the fingers drawn up, ready for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>They are fashionable down there, and I heard that some of the society leaders gave "scratcher" parties, the most graceful handler of the scratcher, winning the prize.</P>
193.sgm:<P>When you are in San Diego, they'll tell you this same story on Los Angeles.</P>
193.sgm:<P>With the exception of San Francisco, San Diego and Los Angeles love each other more than any two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Speaking of fleas, you know, Bill, there are some people in this world who are so blamed mean, a flea wouldnt bite 'em.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I met the meanest man in California the other day, and if I ever set eyes on him again, I'll bust him up in business, buying arnica and court plaster.</P>
193.sgm:<P>That man told me the very first chance I got, to pick a ripe olive and eat it.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I did.</P>
193.sgm:<P>All I've got to say is, if ever I lay my hands on that critter, it will take <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>122</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>There are some things in this world that seem to stick right in your throat, no matter how much you swallow over 'em and I'll bet, I'll never be able to get the taste of that olive, below my wind-pipe.  I'll send a couple of 'em home, Bill,--give 'em to your mother-in-law, and tell her to put 'em both in her mouth at once--that they have to be eaten in pairs, and if she lives through it, and still believes in you, she'll stand by you till your money gives out.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<p>JUST DREAMING</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>BILL, didnt some fellar ask another fellar once, "what was more rare than a day in June?"</P>
193.sgm:<P>If he'd asked me, I'd told him, "a winter in Los Angeles."</P>
193.sgm:<P>If there's any place nearer Heaven on this earth, than a sunny winter day in Southern California, when as far as you can see, the grass is like a great green rug, and flowers of every color and kind, are in bloom--when you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Like the little fellar from Pasadena, this is good enough for your Uncle Eben.</P>
193.sgm:<P>If you didnt have a calendar in your vest pocket, and didnt see a newpaper every day, you'd forget what month it is out here.</P>
193.sgm:<P>To-day is the 9th of March, and its so hot, Bill, that if I was a dog, my tongue would be hanging out, and you could hear me pant clear across the street.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>There's a little spot near Los Angeles called Oneonta Park, named by the big fellar Huntington and owned by him, too.  His home place is called Oneonta, back in York state, and he gave this beauty spot the same names.</P>
193.sgm:<P>If the good people back in the original Oneonta could wake up some warm sunny morning in midwinter, and find themselves in the midst of roses and orange blossoms stretching out as far as they can see, instead of ice and snow, likewise stretching out further than they <HI REND="italics">wish</HI>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Wonder where the fellar was located, that wrote the song called, "Listen to the Nightingale."  He wouldnt had to worked so hard, if he'd been sitting here under this old oak tree with me.  He would have had to put on the brakes, to keep from writing too many verses, for he couldnt have told it all in one or two.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Now, I'd kinder like to write a song called, "Listen to the Turtle Doves," for there are twenty of 'em in the branches over my head, holding a concert with the same number of mocking birds, and I'll bet my bottom dollar, I could kill enough quail--if I was mean enough--within a hundred feet of me, to be arrested for having too many in my possession.</P>
193.sgm:<P>These quail are so tame, Bill, they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>This aint no lie.</P>
193.sgm:<P>You know yourself, I aint been out here long enough to get this everlasting lying desease in my system, and I'm willing to sit on top of a whole Bible factory and say what I've written is the truth, the whole truth and nothing but.  I may be getting a little daffy on California, Bill, but there are two things I havn't got yet--bitten by a tarantula or acclimated.</P>
193.sgm:<P>From some half baked farmers back home, who came to see me, when they heard I was going "clear way out to Californy," I expected to be dodging tarantulas the biggest part of the time.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>One of 'em heard they crawled into bed with you--another that you'd find 'em in your boots in the morning and that if you didnt shake your boots hard before you put 'em on they'd bite your big toe and you'd have to have your toe cut off, or turn 'em up for good and all.</P>
193.sgm:<P>The first night, when the fleas got after me, I thought of old Slim Peters, and remembered he said to take my jack knife and cut the toe off, just as soon as I felt the sting.</P>
193.sgm:<P>But when I started to get it, I remembered again, I traded it to an Indian on the way out to California for a string of glass beads and that was the only thing, I guess, that saved my toe.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I havent seen a tarantula yet, Bill, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>The natives tell you it takes a year to get acclimated--that means, Bill, getting the "back East" out of you, and the "California" into you.  This has to happen to every one that stays here, just as the mumps and the measles are bound to come to every youngster, before he's been on earth very long.</P>
193.sgm:<P>There are so many things to make you wish you was young again, out here.  When I was a young fellar and took the girls home from prayer meetings and quilting parties, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>That's the only kind of posies there was in the old garden at home, but what a wonderful chance a fellar in California has, to court a girl!</P>
193.sgm:<P>Flowers are dirt cheap everywhere, and Bill, its good for sore eyes to get a squint at the baskets of flowers you can see any day on the street corners of Los Angeles.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Carnations, all colors, for ten cents a dozen--think of it, and this in mid-winter, when back home you folks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>And they grow out of doors, acres of 'em, and in the sweet pea fields, they mow 'em down for market instead of cutting 'em.  Life is too short to count 'em--one--two--three; there are millions of 'em and violets--you just never saw such a sight!</P>
193.sgm:<P>Solid banks of these purple blossoms are tucked into vacant spaces, up against the buildings, everywhere throughout the business district, and only five cents for a generous bunch, while each blossom is as big as a quarter, and has a stem on it a quarter of a yard long.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>You neednt snicker, Bill, at what I've just said, for it's the truth, cross my heart.  I know what I said about the biggest liars coming from back East, but you know me, Bill, and you know I've never lied to you yet, excepting on that horse trade last summer.  These baskets of flowers on the street corners in the middle of winter, are the biggest boost to the Angel City it could possibly have.  They speak louder to "the stranger within the gates," than all the printed stuff the Chamber of Commerce could hand out in a year.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Nothing but SUNshine and balmy air can bring forth such glorious flowers in mid-winter, and the stranger jots these beautiful sights down in his memory, and they live and are talked <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<p>CATALINA ISLAND</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>CATALINA Island ought to be called the "Island of Beautiful Dreams."</P>
193.sgm:<P>"Catalina" dont do it justice.  But I bet a cookie whoever named it took their first trip over to the island on a rough day, and didnt feel very flowery.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Catalina is an island out at sea--way out--and between it and the mainland, there are more kinds of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>It only takes two hours to make you feel that life aint so much after all, and you'd just as soon quit now as any old time.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Some fellar told me not to miss the trip, so I took it, and I didnt miss anything but home and mother all the way over and back.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Oh, my!  Oh, my!  Bill, you've seen how a cork on the end of a fishline bobs around when a big wave strikes it, aint you?  Well, that tug-boat I went over in, had a cork beaten to death.</P>
193.sgm:<P>It acted more like a bucking broncho than anything I've seen before or since.</P>
193.sgm:<P>It bucked sideways, and humped <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>I dont remember much about the beautiful view, and I havn't much to write about the "Grand old ocean" but I can truthfully say I parted with everything I had eaten in the last three years.</P>
193.sgm:<P>I laid down and threw up, and I stood up and threw down, until the elastic in my suspenders refused to work any longer, and I crawled under a settee and hoped some one would take pity on me, and knock me in the head.</P>
193.sgm:<P>There are times in a man's life when he has had enough, and had it rubbed in, too.  I got mine on that galloping tug-boat, and I'll bet there are some of those passengers I went <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>I'd 'a been there yet if I hadnt found a feller with a hypodermic syringe, and gave him a couple of dollars to make me forget my troubles, and steer me to my room when I landed in Los Angeles.</P>
193.sgm:<P>On the boat going over, was a bride and groom.  The bride looked very pretty as she tripped lightly down the gang-plank, and came aboard at San Pedro.  But when we reached Catalina Island, I managed to pull the corner of one eye open long enough to get my bearings, and I saw the bride again--all that was left of her.  Her beautiful curly locks were sewed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>The weak kneed groom half carried her through the crowd of gaping summer visitors, who line up on both sides of the wharf at Catalina just to guy the poor seasick things that crawl off the boats.  They guyed us all and had all the fun they wanted to, with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<p>HOMESICK</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>147</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>
193.sgm:<P>CALIFORNIA is called the land of flowers, and the first fellar that called it so, was no liar.</P>
193.sgm:<P>He must have been a native--a truthful man, and likewise a "Booster."  You never heard a native knock California--no--sir--ree.  They're always a boosting, and crowing, and swelling out like pouter pigeons, as soon as they begin to see us sit up and take notice.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>Huh! dont they love to see our eyes stick out, and our mouths come open, while we gap at some of the glories of California--the land of sunshine--the land of gold.</P>
193.sgm:<P>And when we get homesick and say "Good bye, we're going home," they only laugh at us--and Bill, its a kinder mean laugh, too--and they'll say "Oh, you'll come back, they all do.  I'll give you just six months at the most, and I'll bet you'll come back with all your relations, and stay next time for good."</P>
193.sgm:<P>So they slap you on the back, and give you a mighty warm handshake and say,</P>
193.sgm:<P>"Good by, pardner, tell all the good folks back there to come out to God's country, and be glad they're <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>And I'll be hanged, Bill, before you know it, you're so darned homesick you'd give your old trunk if you hadnt bought your ticket East.</P>
193.sgm:<P>You dont <HI REND="italics">want</HI>
193.sgm: to go home--you want to <HI REND="italics">stay!</HI>
193.sgm:<P>And when the train pulls out for back east, and you're on it, b'gosh, there's something inside of you that begins to swell up like a sponge, as you look out of the car window and see the flowers and orange groves slipping by.</P>
193.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
193.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
193.sgm:<P>You are only beginning to realize you are leaving it all, and may never come back again.</P>
193.sgm:<P>Sure, Bill, a man's a fool to cry, but I'd 'a dropped a few tears if I hadn't blown 'em out through my nose.</P>
193.sgm:<P>And let me add, Bill, as I am taking one last look out of the car window, at the fast disappearing, familiar sights I have learned to love, like a native born--let me add, God never fashioned another such wondrous spot, on the entire surface of this old earth.</P>
193.sgm:<P>There is only one <HI REND="italics">real</HI>
193.sgm:<P>THE END.</P>
194.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-194</TITLE>
194.sgm:<TITLE>My own story.  By Fremont Older: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
194.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
194.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
194.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
194.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
194.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
194.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>19-1807</LCCN>
194.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
194.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>A 509761</COPYRIGHT>
194.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>MY OWN STORY</P>
194.sgm:<P>BY</P>
194.sgm:<P>Fremont Older</P>
194.sgm:<P>Editor</P>
194.sgm:<P>The San Francisco Call</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE CALL PUBLISHING CO.,</P>
194.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO</P>
194.sgm:<P>1919</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>Copyright by The Call Publishing Co., 1919</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>By JOHN D. BARRY</P>
194.sgm:<P>"MY OWN STORY" could hardly have been a simpler or a more appropriate title for the series of reminiscences by Fremont Older, following as it did so many stories about other people that he had helped to inspire.  Those stories prepared the way for this swift narrative, scene after scene almost bewildering in variety and interest.  Whatever else life may have been for Older it has never been dull.  The excitement and the glow are reflected in every chapter.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Writing about oneself is pretty difficult business.  There are so many pitfalls.  Few could hope to escape them all.  Older wrote as if he thought very little about them one way or the other.  He was concerned mainly with the story as something to be told concisely, directly and frankly.  There were times when another writer would have spared himself and he spared himself not at all.  Each scene he described as he saw it and felt it and he let it go at that.  There are not many who would have dared to speak so freely.  And yet it was this freedom that did most to make his work valuabble.  He wrote out of a full mind, like one that found expression easy.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Long before "My Own Story" was begun some of us had tried again and again to persuade Older to write his memories.  But he never showed much interest.  When he withdrew from the Bulletin, however, he felt that he had made a break in his career.  He had reached a point where he was tempted to look back.  His quarter of a century spent in building up the paper was full of dramatic incidents.  They were associated with an important period in the history of San Francisco.  They involved the earthquake, the fire, the political corruption that led to the graft prosecution, the emancipation of California from forces that had so long preyed on her political and social life, the imprisonment of Ruef.  For Older all the incidents had a deeper meaning than was revealed on the outside.  They helped to open his eyes.  They trained his understanding.  They widened his sympathies.  They gave him his social vision.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Any self-revelation worth being published at all has two phases, the one that presents the outer circumstances and the one that gives the inner reactions.  Many autobiographies are insignificant because they have one of these two phases only.  In "My Own Story" both phases are remarkable.  The surface narrative alone is absorbingly interesting.  It offers us intimate glimpses into public characters and public events associated with San Francisco during the past twenty-five years.  Every figure presented is lifelike.  Every incident rings true.  The conversations are to the last degree realistic.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>If Older had not gone from reporting into editing he might have developed into a writer of distinction.  He had all the qualities requisite for the making of a novelist.  Those first chapters show how strongly life attracted him, how he reveled in it as he sought his material for writing.  Chance that made him a reporter with a nose for news might just as well have made him a story teller with a genius for characters that expressed themselves in dramatic plots.  But if he had became a story teller he would probably have withdrawn from active participation in public life; he would have missed much of the experience that made this record so rich.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While the story ran in The Call it was interesting to all of us associated with the paper to observe the way it affected readers.  As might have been expected, it attracted notice at the start and had a wide reading.  No surprise was felt at the excellence of the narrative style.  Hadn't Older been a newspaper man all his life?  Yes, but for many years he had been concerned mainly with planning for his paper and directing the work of others.  Only those on the inside knew that in an almost incredibly short time he had dictated most of the narrative to a stenographer.  He had gone at the job like a whirlwind, as he usually did when he became interested in any job.  His newspaper sense made him feel that he must keep it moving and moving fast.  Only an accomplished writer could have reached such speed and, at the same time, kept the continuity so clear and the incidents so realistic.  Throughout the reader could have the feeling of intimacy, always so attractive in writing, as if the writer were addressing the talk to him personally.</P>
194.sgm:<P>As the story went on public interest grew.  Those who missed issues of the paper began to ask for back numbers at the office.  Readers who began late wanted to go back to the start.  Then some of us suggested that the series ought to be brought out in book form.  But Older didn't agree.  Newspaper publication was enough, he insisted; the book wouldn't make any appeal.  Already he was planning for the next serial feature, to be started soon after his story ended.  As usual, his mind was galloping ahead.  From day to day his argument was refuted by the letters that came in expressing interest and urging book publication.  It became plain that this record would have to be preserved.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I don't think that Older had any idea, as he wrote, of working for cumulative interest.  While the chapters toward the end were running, those about his interest in prisoners and his efforts to understand them, he was astonished by the public response.  Of all the chapters they made the biggest hit and caused most discussion.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I suspect that one explanation of the cumulative interest in the narrative was due to its being the record of a mind that kept growing.  The Older reflected in those first chapters was a very different Older from the man in the last chapters, and yet with essentially the same qualities, softened and broadened through experience and reflection.  The man of action became the philosopher without losing any of his vitality and enthusiasm.  One of the younger attorneys in the Mooney case tells about the end of a day spent with Older in work that had worn out everyone concerned, except Older himself.  At bed time, Older ran his hands over his face, yawned and exclaimed, "I'm losing my pep."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I predict that he will never lose his pep.  No one can read this story without finding it there and finding with it a mellowness that gives it a rare flavor.  Something of the Older the public hasn't known in the past and is just finding out and that those of us who work with him know has got into those memories.  The last chapters are Older to the life as he is today, the doer and the philosopher who looks at the world with intense curiosity and with a good deal of sadness over what he sees and frankly says he doesn't know how we can make it what it should be.  He is bewildered by the plight of those people who can't keep out of prison and by those who, while keeping out of prison, help to make the world ugly.  But if he has no solution to offer he lets us see that he is still bent on finding a solution and he makes us want to help.  That eager mind of his still has some tall traveling to do.  There is big work for him ahead.</P>
194.sgm:<P>San Francisco, January 3, 1919.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FOREWORD</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>FOR some years I have wanted to write a frank story of my experiences as an editor of a newspaper in San Francisco.  I couldn't.  I was not allowed to.  Such a story, to have any value, implied a confession, and I was not free to confess.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This I learned when in an address before the Council of Jewish Women, in March, 1914, I approached as near as I dared in a statement of a part of the truth.  Guarded as that attempt was, a lifting of the curtain the least little bit, my temerity was bitterly resented.  The owners of the paper I served wished to cling to the halo the Bulletin had set upon us all in the graft prosecution.  No doubt entered our minds.  We had performed a high public service.  The dark forces of corruption had fought us savagely.  We had encountered danger, financial reprisal, and the cold stare of former friends and acquaintances.  We had bravely faced it all.  Why shouldn't we enjoy the daily thrills, and proudly wear the decoration bestowed upon us by a righteous people?  But time and reflection cooled me until the poor little halo had lost its value.  I wanted to strike deeper, and dig at the very roots of the causes of evil which I had become convinced jails would not cure.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I wanted to tell why I was making so hard a fight for the parole of Abraham Ruef.  I couldn't.  I realized that I was in an utterly false position, and I couldn't say so.  Not the owners alone deterred me from frank expression, but I knew my old associates would resent any word of mine that would taint the glory they felt they had achieved in so hard a struggle.  Also the people who had been sympathetic with the prosecution had a fixed opinion that newspapers that made their kind of fight were incapable of doing wrong.  If the end we were striving for was "noble," we also were "noble."  Unconsciously the old idea that the king can do no wrong had been handed down to us, and is made to apply to those who lead and win a popular fight.  That is why I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>That wasn't the whole truth.  Fighters, fanatically sure they are right, are likely to be without the restraint of conscience, and in battling against evil, become careless of the methods employed, firmly believing that the means justify the end.  Thus we, the reformers and the lawyers, and the officers of the court, and the detectives, the courts and the law had to do whatever it seemed necessary to do to win.  I realized that we had to get down once or twice to Ruef's level to prove him guilty and get him into the penitentiary, where later I hated to see him, knowing what I knew, knowing what I propose now to tell.  For with Ruef out of the penitentiary, and I myself out of my prison, I can tell this and all the other stories of my life as an editor.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It is difficult, it is almost impossible, for any one to talk about himself and his actions without unconsciously trying to excuse wrong doing or to exaggerate his better motives.  I may not be able to entirely avoid these errors, but I shall try to avoid them.  I shall try to tell without concealment or evasion, either for myself or others, the whole truth behind the most important chapters in San Francisco's life as a city.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While I shall call this my own story, it will be the story of many editors, many reformers, many righteous crusaders against graft and crime, vice and bad people.  I shall start the story when I became editor of the Bulletin in 1895.  Worldly success was my only ideal.  I knew nothing of life as it is really lived.  I saw only shadows of men, believing that the villain, as in the plays of that day and, unfortunately, of this day, was thrown from a bridge, and the hero in evening dress married the perfect lady in the last act.  Passionately fighting in many battles what I conceived to be evil, I gradually discovered that it was the evil in me that brought defeat.  It was evil fighting evil.  This truth took possession of me.  I wanted others to know it.  I believed it could best be understood by asking bad people who knew they were bad, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>For some years I devoted much time and energy to this work.  Their stories took on the character of confessions and were published as serials in the Bulletin.  In this confessional have stood Abraham Ruef, political boss; Donald Lowrie, ex-prisoner; Jack Black, ex-prisoner; A Baptist Clergyman; Alice Smith, a prostitute; A Sure-Thing Gambler; A Bunko Man; A Prominent Physician, and Martin Kelly, political boss.</P>
194.sgm:<P>These confessions were all intended to help other people to see themselves and to recognize themselves, but there were always some who thought I inspired these confessions, and wondered why I, too, did not confess.  I received many letters asking me why I didn't tell my story as fully and frankly as I urged others to do.  I invariably replied that I wanted to, but that I couldn't.  But now that I am free to write it, I hope that my readers will try to find themselves in my story and recognize that it is really the story of all of us.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>CHAPTER<HSEP>PAGE<LB>I  THE BEGINNING<HSEP>13<LB>II  MY FIRST POLITICAL FIGHT<HSEP>16<LB>III  MY MISSION A FAILURE<HSEP>19<LB>IV  PHELAN FOR MAYOR<HSEP>23<LB>V  MY DIFFICULTIES IN CHARTER FIGHT<HSEP>27<LB>VI  TOBIN-WELLS-SCHMITZ CAMPAIGN<HSEP>31<LB>VII  TRICKING THE CITY<HSEP>36<LB>VIII  ON THE SCENT<HSEP>40<LB>IX  A CHINESE WHO WOULD NOT SQUEAL<HSEP>43<LB>X  THE STORY OF LILY<HSEP>47<LB>XI  TRAPPING FOUR SENATORS<HSEP>50<LB>XII  PARTRIDGE IS NOMINATED<HSEP>53<LB>XIII  PLAYING MY LAST CARD<HSEP>57<LB>XIV  PLANNING THE GRAFT PROSECUTION<HSEP>61<LB>XV  LINING UP FOR THE FIGHT<HSEP>65<LB>XVI  GETTING UNDER WAY<HSEP>69<LB>XVII  THE CARMEN'S STRIKE<HSEP>72<LB>XVIII  LEADING UP TO CALHOUN<HSEP>76<LB>XIX  CALHOUN IS THE HERO OF THE CITY<HSEP>79<LB>XX  "KEEP AWAY FROM THE BEACH"<HSEP>83<LB>XXI  CALHOUN GROWS DESPERATE<HSEP>87<LB>XXII  PLOTTING WITH ROY<HSEP>90<LB>XXIII  MAKING TAYLOR MAYOR<HSEP>93<LB>XXIV  PLOT AND COUNTERPLOT<HSEP>96<LB>XXV  IN CALHOUN'S CLUTCHES<HSEP>100<LB>XXVI  RESCUED AT SANTA BARBARA<HSEP>103<LB>XXVII  EFFORT TO SAVE FORD<HSEP>106<LB>XXVIII  CONVICTION OF RUEF<HSEP>109<LB>XXIX  RUEF SENT TO THE PENITENTIARY<HSEP>112<LB>XXX  JIM GALLAGHER WEAKENS<HSEP>114<LB>XXXI  GHOST OF THE TOBIN-WELLS FIGHT<HSEP>117<LB>XXXII  FICKERT PLAYS HIS ROLE<HSEP>120<LB>XXXIII  MY ATTITUDE ON RUEF<HSEP>123<LB>XXXIV  RUEF BREAKS DOWN<HSEP>126<LB>XXXV  FIGHTING FOR RUEF'S PAROLE<HSEP>129<LB>XXXVI  PAT SULLIVAN'S STORY<HSEP>132<LB>XXXVII  CHARLEY THE STAGE ROBBER<HSEP>136<LB>XXXVIII  CHARLEY MAKES HIS ESCAPE<HSEP>139<LB>XXXIX  CHARLEY'S ROMANCE<HSEP>142<LB>XL  THE GOING OUT DINNER TO CHARLEY<HSEP>146<LB>XLI  THE QUEERNESS OF FRITZ<HSEP>150<LB>XLII  THE STORY OF GEORGE<HSEP>154<LB>XLIII  TIM O'GRADY<HSEP>157<LB>XLIV  CHARLES AUGUSTUS BOGGS<HSEP>160<LB>XLV  PEDRO<HSEP>164<LB>XLVI  DOUGLASS<HSEP>167<LB>XLVII  LOVE TRIUMPHS<HSEP>171<LB>XLVIII  HUGO AND RUTH<HSEP>174<LB>XLIX  TWO TRAGEDIES<HSEP>178<LB>L  JACK BLACK<HSEP>183<LB>CONCLUSION<HSEP>194</P>
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194.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>THE BEGINNING</P>
194.sgm:<P>I BECAME managing editor of the Bulletin in January, 1895. Before that time I had been a reporter on various San Francisco newspapers, and had acquired a local reputation as a young man with a "nose for news."  In addition to this news instinct, I had a great deal of enthusiasm for my work, a persistent desire to run down every story until I had exhausted every possible angle of it.  As an alert and enterprising young newspaper man, I had been chosen by R. A. Crothers to be city editor of The Morning Call.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At that time The Call and the Bulletin were both owned by the estate of Loring Pickering, the estate of a man named Simonton, and George K. Fitch, then living.  There was a great deal of friction between Fitch and R. A. Crothers, who represented the Pickering estate, and shortly after I went on The Call as city editor, Fitch brought proceedings in the Federal court to have both papers sold at auction, as a means of settling the difficulties.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I had been on The Call less than a year when the sale occurred.  The Call was sold to Charles M. Shortridge for $361,000.  A few days later R. A. Crothers bought the Bulletin for $35,500.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The paper was at very low ebb, having a circulation of perhaps nine thousand, and advertising insufficient to meet the expenses.  I think it was losing about $3000 a month.  But Loring Pickering, before his death, had expressed a wish that his widow should hold the Bulletin for their son, Loring, then about 7 years old.  The father's idea was that The Call in competition with the Examiner would be a difficult property to handle successfully, and he felt that the Bulletin could be developed into a paying paper.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Before Loring Pickering died he gave his brother in law, Crothers, a very small interest in The Call, a twelfth of his one-third interest, which, when the paper was sold, realized a few thousand dollars.  This sum, added to Crothers' savings as a lawyer in Canada, was sufficient to enable him to pay one-half of the Bulletin's purchase price.  The other half was paid by his sister, Mrs. Pickering, who held her share in trust for her son, Loring.  The purchase was made in Crothers' name and he became the ostensible owner of the paper.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After the sale he found himself in possession of a property which was losing a large sum monthly.  It was necessary <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>As I remember, at that time I had no ideals whatever about life, and no enthusiasms beyond newspaper success.  I was vain of my newspaper talent; that is, the talent that made it possible for me to succeed in getting hold of news and features that would interest the public and increase circulation.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Neither Crothers nor myself had any other view in the beginning than to make the paper succeed financially.  It had to be done quickly, too, because Crothers had no money and the Pickering estate consisted largely of real estate, so that we could get no help from that source.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The office of the Bulletin was on Clay street, between Sansome and Montgomery, in an old building that was almost on the verge of tumbling down.  It had been there for more than thirty years.  We had only one old press that was wholly inadequate for handling a circulation of any size, and our type was set by hand.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was almost impossible to make any improvements, because we had no money.  We were running so close on revenue that Crothers was constantly worried for fear we would encounter losses that would entirely destroy our hopes of success.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I worked desperately hard in the beginning.  I had a staff of only five men besides myself, and I acted as managing editor, city editor, book reviewer, dramatic critic and exchange editor, thus doing the work of several men.  I lived, breathed, ate, slept and dreamed nothing but the paper.  My absorbing thought was the task of making it go.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was perfectly ruthless in my ambition.  My one desire was to stimulate the circulation, to develop stories that would catch the attention of readers, no matter what was the character of the stories.  They might make people suffer, might wound or utterly ruin some one; that made no difference to me, it was not even in my mind.  I cared only for results, for success to the paper and to myself.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was not long before the paper began to respond to the strong pressure I put upon it.  We had only two competitors in the evening paper field, the Post and the Report, and I had the satisfaction of seeing our circulation slowly creep upward, until we had passed the Post and were becoming a serious rival of the Report.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Meanwhile I had been urging that we move away from the old quarters, to get a new press and install linotype machines.  Crothers and I decided that five linotypes would do the work of twenty-six compositors, and that the saving made would perhaps help to keep us on the right side of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>In my ceaseless efforts to make the paper attractive and to do unusual things, I undertook art work on chalk plates, which was a novelty at the time.  A plate of chalk was used, the artist making his drawing upon it with a steel tool.  With Will Sparks as artist, we produced some very good effects.  This was before we were able to install a photo engraving plant.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was working under heavy pressure, trying to overlook nothing that would help the paper.  I watched the circulation, the street sales, the art work; I wrote several departments of the paper myself, and I was avid in my search for news scoops.  One of my typical stories, through which ran the same overwrought enthusiasm that characterized the later and more important ones, was the fight against the pastor of the First Congregational Church, Reverend C. O. Brown.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Brown had been accused of having improper relations with a young woman, a member of his church, and we made quite a scandal about it.  The preacher, of course, denied the story, but I was able to stir up enough discord in his church to cause some of the members to ask for an investigation.  The investigation resulted in a trial of Brown by a jury of preachers from other churches.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I made desperate efforts to get condemning evidence, and succeeded to quite an extent, running big stories with flaring headlines daily during the trial.  During this fight Brown, in order to frighten me into abandoning the fight against him, caused to be written to me a forged letter signed by John J. Valentine, the manager of the Wells Fargo Express Company and a prominent member of his church.  The letter asked me to drop the matter, saying that Brown was a very fine man, and undoubtedly innocent and persecuted.</P>
194.sgm:<P>As soon as I received the letter I immediately rushed down to Valentine with it.  He said that it was a forgery, that he had never written it.  This made what I considered a great story.  I published a facsimile of the letter, with a heading across the page, "Brown, the Penman," and a handwriting expert's testimony added.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Brown was acquitted by the friendly jury of preachers, resigned and went East, and nothing was heard of him for more than a year.  Then he reappeared in San Francisco, hired a hall, and in a public speech admitted his guilt.  No one seemed to know why he made the confession.</P>
194.sgm:<P>By this time, however, my work as an editor was beginning to involve me in larger questions.  I had come into direct contact with national politics, and my first experiences were illuminating.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>MY FIRST POLITICAL FIGHT</P>
194.sgm:<P>IN 1895, during my first year as managing editor of the Bulletin, McKinley was beginning his campaign for the Presidency.  In our harassing need for money to keep the paper going, searching in every possible direction for means of increasing our slender revenues, Crothers insisted that some money ought to be forthcoming from the McKinley forces.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In my endeavor to make this money as legitimately as possible, I hit upon the idea of getting out a special McKinley edition.  Fifty thousand extra papers, boosting McKinley, distributed throughout California, should be worth $5000 to the Republican committee.  Crothers had always been a Republican; so far as I had any political convictions they were in harmony with those of the Republican party.  The special edition would not only be in line with the Bulletin's editorial policy, but with its business needs.  I eased my conscience with the thought that we were only asking the normal price, 5 cents a copy.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Crothers approved the idea, and I went to Chicago, where I saw Mark Hanna and urged the plan.  He was willing; the matter was referred to Judge Waymire, who was in charge of the campaign on the Coast, and on my return to San Francisco he approved it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Before we could print the edition, however, a tremendous protest went up from other San Francisco papers, led by the Argonaut.  They were getting no money; they violently opposed our getting any.  Senator Proctor of Vermont came West, representing the National Republican committee, and there was a vigorous controversy which ended by our being paid $2500, half the sum agreed upon.  The other $2500 was repudiated.  But Judge Waymire said he would personally assume the debt.  He failed soon after, leaving the balance unpaid.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Dropping into my office, one day, during the course of these negotiations, Judge Waymire showed me a letter which he had received from Mark Hanna, in which the great Republican boss promised Waymire an appointment in McKinley's Cabinet as Secretary of the Interior.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I had a brilliant idea.  If the Bulletin were to come out editorially urging Waymire's appointment we would gain immensely in prestige when later he was appointed.  It would appear that we had waged a successful political fight for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I set to work on the editorial, was engaged in finishing it, when Senator Perkins came in to bid me goodby before leaving for the East.  I showed him the editorial.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Fine!" he said.  "I love Judge Waymire.  He's the dearest friend I have in the world.  There's nothing I wouldn't do for him.  I'm just on my way East now; I'll stop off at Canton, if you like, see McKinley, and urge him personally to appoint the judge."  He was most enthusiastic.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I told him he need not do that.  I was satisfied to know that he would be strong for Waymire.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Much encouraged by his enthusiasm, I ran the editorial, while Perkins went on to Washington.  Immediately upon his arrival there, the Associated Press brought back an interview with the senator in which he declared himself for Horace Davis for the Cabinet position.  Davis had been president of the University of California and was a commanding political figure.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This jarred me considerably.  I was not yet accustomed to the ways of politics, and I was astounded by Perkins' action.  Moreover, the Bulletin was committed to Waymire's cause, and I began to be troubled with fears that he would lose the appointment.  Rumors came to me that Judge McKenna, then occupying the Federal bench here, was also a candidate for the position, and had good hopes of getting it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I had become very well acquainted with Waymire and when he learned that Judge McKenna was likely to be appointed to the Cabinet, instead of himself, he told me that, of course, the Southern Pacific railway was the controlling influence.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He told me that when McKenna was first appointed to the Federal bench, he also had been a candidate for the same position, and knowing that Leland Stanford, at that time a United States Senator, would say the ultimate word in the appointment.  Waymire had called on Stanford and asked him if he would not consider him for the place.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Senator Stanford was very frank," Waymire said.  "He told me that he liked me very much indeed, admired me greatly.  He also liked and admired McKenna equally with me.  The senator said, `If all things were equal, I would have difficulty in deciding which one should have this position of Federal judge.  But while I like you both, I can't overlook the fact that your mind leans more to the protesting people, the people who have made it difficult for our corporations to be successful here in California.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`You tend more to the side of the agitating public than McKenna does,' Stanford said.  `McKenna is equally honest, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"So," Waymire concluded, "if McKenna is appointed Secretary of the Interior, no doubt it will be for the same reason, because he is friendly to the Southern Pacific organization."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Apart from my personal feeling toward Judge Waymire, I might have wished myself well out of the situation, for the Bulletin was in no condition to make a losing political fight.  However, we were definitely committed to Waymire's candidacy, so friendship and self-interest pulled together.  I determined to do my utmost to force his appointment.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Judge Waymire thought McKinley would hesitate to appoint McKenna to a Cabinet position which was connected with the schools, because of his religion.  McKinley was a devout Methodist, and Waymire sought a prominent local Methodist clergyman and asked him if he would be willing to help.  The clergyman at once called upon Bishop Newman of the Methodist Church, who was at that time in San Francisco.  He was keen to help, and wrote a stinging letter to McKinley, rebuking him for having even entertained the idea of McKenna for such an important position.  He even told him that he should not listen to either Archbishop Ireland or C. P. Huntington, both of whom the bishop said had called on him in McKenna's behalf.</P>
194.sgm:<P>With this letter in hand, I telegraphed McKinley, asking for an appointment.</P>
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194.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>MY MISSION A FAILURE</P>
194.sgm:<P>ARMED with the letter from Bishop Newman, I went East to see McKinley personally in regard to Waymire's appointment as secretary of the interior.  McKinley had most cordially telegraphed me the time at which he would see me, and upon my arrival in Canton he received me at his home, in his drawing room.  I had traveled through ice and snow across the continent for this interview with the future President, and was nervous and keyed up with excitement.</P>
194.sgm:<P>McKinley's face lighted up when I mentioned Judge Waymire.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes, the dear judge!" he said.  "How is he?  I love Judge Waymire."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I seemed to hear a sinister warning in these words.  I had heard them before.  Senator Perkins had used them.  They had cheered me then, and I had believed them, but now I was doubtful.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Waymire is one of my dearest friends," said McKinley.  "How is he getting along?  Tell me all about him!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>I approached the question of the appointment to the cabinet, and McKinley, saying that we could talk better upstairs, led me up to his bedroom and closed the door.  I produced the scorching letter from Bishop Newman, protesting against the appointment of McKenna.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The dear old bishop!" said McKinley.  He read the letter without a change of expression, bland and smiling.  "Now he raises here what seems to me a very trivial point," he said.  "Of course, I'm a deacon in my church--I love Newman, I love the dear old bishop--but he says here that I should not appoint McKenna because he is a Catholic.  Would that make any difference to you, Mr. Older?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Not any at all," I said.  "But that's because I have no feeling about any church.  They all mean the same to me.  Of course I believe in the doctrines of Christ.  I consider His message the most beautiful ever given the world.  But I have no feeling about sects.  However, if I had--"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Now, the bishop says here that Archbishop Ireland has been to see me--and that Huntington has been to see me.  That is true, and I have talked with them both.  But they have had no influence with me, no influence at all.  You know, Mr. Older, a Cabinet is a family matter--one might <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"You have McKenna in mind, no doubt," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes," he replied.  "When I was chairman of the Ways and Means Committee, McKenna, then in Congress, was on the committee with me.  Thus coming in close contact with him I came to know him well.  If you were going to employ a writer on the Bulletin, Mr. Older, wouldn't you pick a man whose work you knew?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Probably not," I said, "if there were two men whose work was equally good, and this man had tried to prevent me from holding the position that made it possible for me to give him the job."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What do you mean?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"McKenna was against you for the nomination," I said.  "He openly urged his political friends in California to support Tom Reed."</P>
194.sgm:<P>For just an instant this seemed to disconcert McKinley, but he rallied quickly and said, "No doubt Reed at some time has done McKenna a favor.  That should not count against him."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Then I spoke about Waymire and his ability and talents.  McKinley agreed to all I said, and repeated that he loved Waymire.  He said also that he had not fully decided to give McKenna the place.  McKenna would not take it unless the President would promise to put him on the Supreme Bench later.  McKenna would not give up a $6000 a year life job on the Federal bench for a four-year job at $8000 a year as Secretary of the Interior.  He would not take the Cabinet position unless McKinley would promise him a life job later, which McKinley told me he hesitated to do.  However, he would make no promises for Waymire.</P>
194.sgm:<P>McKinley later appointed McKenna attorney general, thus avoiding offense to his Methodist friends who didn't want McKenna in the Department of the Interior, which has something to do with the schools.  He subsequently elevated him to the Supreme bench.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I wired Waymire the result of my interview and he advised my seeing Mark Hanna.  I went on to Cleveland and called on Hanna.  I told him what McKinley had said about McKenna and Waymire.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Why do you come to me?" he inquired.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Because," I replied, "you wrote a letter to Waymire before the election saying he would get a Cabinet position, and knowing that you are the politician of the firm, I thought you would decide it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"So I am the politician of the firm, am I?"</P>
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194.sgm:<P>"You are so regarded all over America."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Hanna rose from his chair and came over close to me and said: "Mr. Older, I am a baby in politics compared with our good friend in Canton.  He has already decided upon McKenna.  If you had understood the language of politics you would have saved yourself this trip.  Give my love to Waymire and tell him I am sorry, but it can't be helped."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I returned to California.  My first experience in politics had ended disastrously for my hopes.  But the local election of 1896 brought me other and more encouraging experiences.  It was an important election from my point of view, because from the beginning of the campaign I felt that it would help the Bulletin tremendously if I could win a political victory in which a mayor would be elected.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The entire state at that time was politically controlled by the Southern Pacific.  In order thoroughly to dominate the state it not only controlled the Legislature, the courts, the municipal governments, the county governments, which included coroners, sheriffs, boards of supervisors, in fact, all state and county and city officials, but it also had as complete a control of the newspapers of the state as was possible, and through them it controlled public opinion.</P>
194.sgm:<P>There was hardly an editor who dared criticise to any extent the railroad domination.  Country editors, many of them, were satisfied with an annual pass for the editor and his wife.  Some of the larger ones expected and got money for advertisements.  Some of the metropolitan papers fared better, and among these was the Bulletin.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This use of money and favors was quite open.  No one seemed to criticise it.  At every session of the Legislature, in addition to the secret money that was distributed, blue tickets were openly handed about.  On Friday or Saturday when the Legislature adjourned until Monday, railroad lobbyists passed these blue tickets around among all the members and all the newspaper men and all the attaches of both houses.  These tickets entitled the holder to a free passage to San Francisco and return.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Even Supreme Court judges traveled on annual passes and made no secret of it, and all influential people traveled to and from the East without any cost.  I have been on an overland train when there were only three or four people on the entire train that had a ticket they had paid for.  In the Pullman I was in none had even paid for their berths.  One man, a cigar drummer, had a pass for meals at the eating stations.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I remember one session of the Legislature in the early nineties, when a certain assemblyman from San Francisco told me that all of his leading constitutents had told him to get all he could up there, and he was quite open in taking money, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>No fight of any consequence had been made against this state of affairs.  Corporations were regarded as legitimate business enterprises bound up with the welfare of the community, and people believed that they should have special privileges, that they must have special privileges in order to succeed, and that they must succeed if the community was to be prosperous.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was the state of affairs when I began casting about for a candidate for mayor who could make a conspicuous, winning fight, and reflect credit upon the Bulletin.  I had sense enough to know that there would be nothing brilliantly conspicuous in getting behind Herrin, the railroad boss, and helping him to put his mayor in.  What I wanted was a fight against the machine, and it must be a winning fight.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Earnestly considering the situation, I thought of James D. Phelan.  He was rich, which gave him leisure and made him independent of money considerations; he was of Irish stock and a Catholic.  I thought that if the Bulletin, which had been a very solemn, conservative paper under the old management, were to take up a political fight for a popular, clean young rich man, it would help the paper tremendously.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>PHELAN FOR MAYOR</P>
194.sgm:<P>AT that time the Southern Pacific Railroad dominated not only the Republican party, but also, to a large extent, the Democratic organization.  Practically every one of influence supported the railroad, because it was in control, and thus the sole dispenser of political favors.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A man who wanted anything that political power could give went to Bill Higgins, the Republican boss, who responded to Herrin, or to Sam Rainey, the Democratic boss, who responded to Herrin, or he went to Sacramento to the railroad lobbyists, who were henchmen of Herrin.  The rest of the people did not count.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The Southern Pacific was openly the Republican party.  When there was a Republican governor in Sacramento the office of the governor was Herrin's office in San Francisco.  If a group of men wanted anything from the governor, they did not go to see the governor; they went to see Herrin.  He would put it through for any one whom he liked; that is, for any one who would be useful to him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>So far as I know, this control of Herrin's was absolute in California except in San Francisco.  Here there was a small rebellious group of Democrats, headed at that time by Gavin McNab, a young and ambitious clerk in the Occidental Hotel, who was studying law in his spare time.  He had a great deal of energy and dash and spirit, and was strong against crooked politics.  While he was a hotel clerk, with no money except his salary, he already had a small but growing influence, and I took him into account in considering my problem.</P>
194.sgm:<P>There were many angles to my difficulty.  Politically, the Bulletin had always been Republican.  R. A. Crothers had very strong Republican convictions, and, as I have said, so far as I had any political opinions at the time, they were also Republican.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In addition to this, the Bulletin was on the payroll of the Southern Pacific Railroad for $125 a month.  This was paid not for any definite service, but merely for "friendliness."  Being always close to the line of profit and loss, it was felt the paper could not afford to forfeit this income.  Yet I felt strongly the advantage to our circulation which would come from a startling political fight in which we should be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>It was a delicate situation.  However, I reasoned that I could count upon a certain indifference to purely local affairs on Herrin's part, and I believed that if I could find the right candidate I could make the fight successfully.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At this time I had never met Phelan, but I knew that he had taken considerable interest in civic affairs.  He had been a director of the World's Fair at Chicago; he had made some contributions of works of art to San Francisco; he was a good public speaker, and a very rich man.  I felt that his being wealthy would prevent him from following the corrupt practices that had always been in vogue in San Francisco, would enable him to make a fight against the Republican machine, and would leave him free, if elected, to give the city an independent government.</P>
194.sgm:<P>With these things in mind, I called upon Phelan in his office and introduced myself.  I told him that my name was Older, that I was managing editor of the Bulletin, and that I thought he ought to run for mayor.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He looked at me sharply and said, "Why, what put that in your head?  What gave you that idea?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said that I understood that he was a man of leisure with an interest in civic affairs, that he had ability, that he would give the city a good, clean government.  I made a strong plea to him to run for the nomination.  I told him that I knew it would be very difficult to persuade the owner of the Bulletin, Crothers, to permit the paper to support any one not a Republican, but I thought it could be accomplished if he would ask a friend of his who had great influence with Crothers to talk with him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Phelan was noncommittal, but I saw that I had made an impression on his mind.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A few days later Phelan's friend called at the Bulletin office and talked with Crothers.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After he had come and gone I approached Crothers myself and urged that the paper support Phelan.  At first he demurred at leaving the Republican party and supporting a Democrat, but I insisted that the election was only local.  We could still be Republican nationally and in state affairs; we could go so far as to be Democratic locally and it would not be held against us.  I argued strongly that a successful city campaign would largely increase our circulation and aid in putting the paper on its feet.  I minimized the possibility of resentment on the part of the railroad.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Finally he reluctantly consented, and on the following day I published the first article suggesting Phelan for mayor.  His being a millionaire, of course, made him popular at once.  All the politicians felt it would be a fat <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>This feeling permeated Crothers' mind also.  He felt that our scant finances should be somewhat improved by our support of Phelan.  I feared this thought in Crothers' mind because of the public-spirited attitude I had taken with Phelan.  I felt ashamed that Phelan should ever know that we would take money from political candidates or from any source other than the so-called legitimate sources.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I hoped to convince Charley Fay, Phelan's manager, to accept the same plan in Phelan's fight that I used in the McKinley campaign; that is, to get Phelan to buy a certain number of extra Bulletin editions.  I suggested the idea to Fay that if I could be allowed several 10,000 editions of the Bulletin in addition to our regular circulation, for which we would charge $500, I thought I could hold the paper in line throughout the campaign.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Fay agreed to the plan, and it was understood that a certain number of Saturday nights would be selected for this extra Phelan edition of the Bulletin.  I promised him that we would have our regular carriers distribute them and the cost to Phelan would only be 5 cents each, our regular retail price on the streets.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This arrangement seemed to me quite legitimate.  I trusted that it might meet Crothers' hope that some money would flow in from Phelan.  As the campaign progressed this sum did not entirely satisfy him.  It was not the custom at that time to give something for nothing in political affairs, and he felt that the Bulletin's support was worth more than an occasional $500.</P>
194.sgm:<P>His pressure upon me for more money finally became so strong that I called on Charley Fay and told him that I would have to get out another extra edition to the number agreed upon between us.  Otherwise I was afraid that Crothers could not be restrained from sending some one from the Bulletin office to make a demand upon Phelan personally.  Fay agreed to allow me to get out the extra edition, and by doing so I prevented Phelan from being directly importuned for money.  We got through the campaign with no other contributions from Phelan except the payments for these editions.</P>
194.sgm:<P>For years a great many people believed that Phelan had subsidized the Bulletin.  Many thought he owned it.  These amounts, however, were the only sums paid the Bulletin by Phelan through that campaign.  He was elected and, as I had hoped, the fight gave us some standing in the community and materially increased our circulation.  Many of our readers believed that we were a free newspaper, as free, that is, as any newspaper could be.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The campaign had not been so seriously opposed by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>A situation was coming, however, that was much more difficult to meet.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>MY DIFFICULTIES IN THE CHARTER FIGHT</P>
194.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, of course, was locally controlled by the corporations, which, while they worked in harmony with the Southern Pacific machine, had their own separate organizations in the city.  The labor unions were quite strong and were gaining in strength, but as yet they had made no determined effort to dispute the power of the corporations.</P>
194.sgm:<P>So far as I had any attitude toward labor unions at that time I was against them, because they annoyed the paper with demands, and, in my narrow view, made our success more difficult.  They insisted upon more money than I thought we could possibly afford to pay.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When we put in linotypes the work seemed so simple and easy that Crothers regretted that we were compelled to pay men four dollars a day.  "It's a girl's work," he said.  "We could get women to sit there and tap those keys for $1.50 a day.  That would be ample.  Think of those creatures getting $4 a day for that."  I had been a printer in my younger days and had sufficient trade sympathy with the men to resent this suggestion.  In the main, however, I held at this time the employer's views on union labor.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was Phelan's administration that gave me my first social sense.  It was not a conspicuously revolutionary administration, but it was conventionally honest, and Phelan felt a genuine desire to serve the people and safeguard their interests.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A Board of Supervisors had been elected with him who responded to him and were incorruptible in the sense of not taking bribes, as nearly all boards prior to this time had done.  The administration was based on economy and upon constructive work for the city, for beautifying the streets, building, parks and playgrounds, putting up fountains.  Phelan had a deep love for San Francisco and dreamed of making it a clean, beautiful city, worthy of its magnificent natural advantages, its hills and its great bay.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Nearly every step brought him into contact with the old regime.  For example, the gas company in lighting the streets charged excessive rates, and the more lights there were the more money flowed in.  Naturally it had put in as many gas lamps as it could possibly plant.  Phelan in one stroke eliminated 600 of them, cutting the gas company's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>However, he continued to watch the people's interests, building better streets, better pavements, striking at graft wherever it showed its head, scanning city contracts closely, and keeping the railroad's hand out of the Board of Supervisors as much as possible.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I began to admire his attitude greatly.  Up to this time I had concealed from him and his followers the fact that the Bulletin was not free, that we were on the payroll not only of the railroad, but of the gas company and the water company.  I wanted Phelan to think that I was an honest newspaper man.  Of course, I dimly realized that I was not, because part of my salary came from these corporations.  However, I had it in mind to try to eliminate these subsidies if I were ever able to do so.  Meantime my earnest effort was to keep them from coming to Phelan's knowledge.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Then Phelan began his fight for a new city charter.  He had found that the old charter was inadequate for the reforms he contemplated, and he proposed the election of a Board of Freeholders who would draft a new one.  His administration was popular with the people, and their support was behind the plan for a new charter.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The railroad immediately came into the fight with a nominated Board of Freeholders, known as the Martin Kelly Board, but in reality controlled by Herrin.  The Bulletin supported the board nominated by Phelan and it was elected.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The Phelan board drafted the charter, and then came its election.  By this time the railroad was really fighting in earnest.  The new charter, as drafted, spread political power too much for the Southern Pacific's purposes.  It provided for many commissions--the police commission, election commission, and others--which would be difficult to control.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The fight had barely started when Crothers came to me and said that W. H. Mills, who handled the newspapers of California for the railroad company, had agreed to raise the Bulletin's pay from $125 to $250 a month if we would make only a weak support of the new charter.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I saw that it would be almost impossible for me to maintain my reputation for honesty with Phelan and his followers and at the same time not offend Mills to the point of his withdrawing his subsidy.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went ahead desperately, doing my best to satisfy both sides, and daily feeling more self-contempt.  Phelan, expecting me to be loyal to the charter, forced me by his very expectation to run several editorials supporting it.  I was checked by Crothers, who told me that Mills had complained.</P>
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194.sgm:<P>Then I killed several articles that had been prepared by the editorial writer favoring the charter.  For several days we were silent.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This brought Charley Fay up to the office.  He said: "What the hell's the matter with the Bulletin?"  That frightened me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went to the editorial writer and told him to write a strong editorial supporting the charter.  He looked at me strangely and said: "What's the use?  It will be killed."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No," I replied.  "It will not be killed.  This one won't.  You write it and I'll publish it tomorrow."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The next day I published it in the Bulletin without consulting the owner.  The campaign was so nearly over that I was able to finish it without any further complaint from Mills.  We won the charter fight and the paper and I came out of it clean, so far as Phelan's knowledge went.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Phelan's first administration was a huge success.  The people greatly appreciated the little he had been able to do for them and he became very popular.  He was elected a second time under the new charter, to administer it, and then he was elected a third time.  It was during these years that Henry T. Gage was picked by Herrin as Republican candidate for governor.</P>
194.sgm:<P>By this time the Bulletin was prospering.  The circulation had gone over 20,000; we had cut out the losses and were showing a profit every month.  So when it came to a question of supporting Gage, although the Bulletin was a Republican paper and Gage was the nominee of the Republican party, Crothers felt that the influence of the Bulletin was worth more than the Southern Pacific had been paying.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He insisted that I go to Mills and demand $25,000 from the railroad for supporting Gage.  I told him that this was ridiculous, that they wouldn't consider such a sum for a minute.  He insisted that he would have $25,000 or he wouldn't support Gage, and demanded that I tell Mills that.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I knew Mills very well socially and liked him.  In fact, our families were friends.  Mills knew how I felt about this sort of thing and he knew Crothers' attitude, so I could be perfectly frank with him.  I called on him and said, laughingly, "How much do you think Crothers wants to support Gage?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said, "I haven't any idea.  Why, how much?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Twenty-five thousand," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Mills laughed aloud.  He said, "He's joking, isn't he?"  I said, "No, he wants that."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well," he said, "he won't get it.  You can tell him that from me.  I'll see Boyle, the business manager, and fix things up a little better for him."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I learned later that they increased the Bulletin's subsidy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>We were in this position, and I was still maintaining my reputation for honesty with Phelan and his group, when the teamsters' strike occurred, out of which came Eugene E. Schmitz as a political figure in San Francisco.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>THE TOBIN-WELLS-SCHMITZ CAMPAIGN</P>
194.sgm:<P>IN THE teamsters' strike in 1901, Phelan was put in a very embarrassing position.  The Teamsters' Union, striking for better conditions, had tied up all the teams in San Francisco.  Business was practically stopped.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The merchants, also strongly organized, found non-union men to put on the wagons, and demanded police protection for them.  They insisted that the streets were made for traffic, that the teams should be allowed to move upon them, that no power on earth should be permitted to delay them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Phelan hesitated, but the pressure upon him from his old friends and associates was strong; they urged their opinion, which to a certain extent was Phelan's also, as a member of his class.  In the end he reluctantly yielded, putting policemen on the wagons with orders to protect the drivers and see that the teams were kept moving.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The strikers formed in mobs and attacked the wagons and the police.  There were riots in the streets, men were killed and crippled, goods were destroyed.  There was a miniature reign of terror, and armed conflicts raged daily.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The leading merchants urged the Bulletin to stand for "law and order," and against the strikers.  It was our inclination to do so anyway, but the merchants held out high hopes for the future of the people if we would stand "right" in the fight.  When the Examiner took the side of the strikers our business office had visions of a harvest of advertising contracts.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The merchants immediately undertook to boycott the Examiner for its stand.  They tentatively organized for the purpose, but one or two of the business houses refused to sign the agreement, and so defeated their purpose.  However, the largest advertising firm in town did withdraw its advertisement from the Examiner for a short time.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At length the strike ended, with a compromise.  The teamsters did not get all they had demanded, but they went back to work after having gained a part of it.  Labor was enthusiastic for the Examiner, which had fought the labor fight, and that paper's circulation was larger than ever.  Immediately the largest advertising firm in town went back, increasing its advertising space there and cutting down the space formerly given us.</P>
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194.sgm:<P>When our advertising manager remonstrated, he was told, "Business is business.  We are advertising strictly on a proposition of circulation, and your circulation has gone down."</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was true.  We had come out of the strike boycotted by labor union men.  And we had gained nothing from the business men who had promised to support us.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The trouble had stirred workingmen more deeply than any previous labor trouble.  They were advised by the Rev. Father Yorke, who had their confidence, that the thing for them to do was to go into politics and elect a mayor.  They organized politically, held a convention, and selected as their standard bearer Eugene E. Schmitz.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Schmitz was at that time a member of the Musicians' Union and leader of the Columbia Theater orchestra.  He was every inch the right looking man for a candidate.  Tall, well formed, handsome, always well dressed and self-possessed, he was a commanding figure of a man, the center of all eyes in a crowd.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The campaign was a three-cornered one.  Asa R. Wells was the Southern Pacific candidate; Schmitz ran as a labor party man; Joseph S. Tobin was the Democratic nominee.  The Democrats had tried to persuade Phelan to run, but he had been mayor three times and refused.  The best man that could be selected from his group of reformers was Tobin.  He had been a supervisor under Phelan, had always fought with the reform element, and had a fine record.  He was considered a strong character and a capable, honest man.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Of course, I was very anxious that the Bulletin should pursue the same course it had followed since Phelan first ran for mayor.  I wanted to stand firmly by the group of men who had worked with him through the charter fights and through the various reform movements they had undertaken here.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I felt that my personal honor, or rather, their belief, in my honesty and my efforts to deserve that belief, was involved in my fighting for these men, whom I respected and in whom I believed.  But I was afraid that I would not be able to hold the paper for Tobin because of the money question.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I could not go to Phelan and ask him for money, because I had never betrayed to him that the Bulletin took money; nor could I go to Tobin, who was close to Phelan.  But I knew that I must get some money in order to hold the paper to the Phelan group.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went to Prince Poniatowski, brother in law of Will Crocker, who was a close friend of Tobin.  I told him my predicament in confidence and insisted that he must get some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Poniatowski said: "I will do all I can, but the best I can do personally is $500 a month for three months through the campaign.  I will put up the $1500 out of my own pocket."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I did not dare to go to anyone else, and I hoped, but faintly, that this would be enough.  I went to Crothers with the information that I had got $1500 to support Tobin, and he said, "It isn't enough."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was in despair.  Only one other ruse remained by which I might hold him.  I asked former Mayor E. B. Pond, banker and millionaire; James D. Phelan, mayor and millionaire, and Franklin K. Lane, then a rising power in California, to call on Crothers and see if they could not prevail on him to stand by Tobin.  Always greatly impressed by wealth, I felt that their prominence and financial standing might hold him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>They called, and did their best, but made no impression.  Then I wrote an editorial which committed the paper mildly to Tobin, but I did not dare publish it without Crothers seeing it.  He was keen on the money scent by this time.  When I showed it to him, he said: "The article commits the paper to Tobin."  He took a pencil and marked out certain phrases, so that the editorial left the paper on the fence, in such a position that it could support any of the three candidates.  I published the editorial as corrected.  It was the best I could do.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A few days later the railroad paid Crothers $7500.  It was paid to him by a man not openly connected with the railroad.  I learned of it almost instantly.  The report was confirmed by Crothers ordering me to support Wells.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Tobin learned of the payment of the money and severely criticised me.  Then I went to Tobin and told him frankly what had happened, and that I had done all in my power to hold the paper for him.  He apologized and said that he was very sorry, that he did not blame me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Thomas Boyle, the business manager of the Bulletin, at that time was a strong advocate of Schmitz.  I, of course, was for Tobin.  Crothers was for Wells.  The Call facetiously printed an item to this effect:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Boyle is out for Schmitz, Older is out for Tobin, and Crothers is out for the stuff."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The situation, of course, became well known to the men on the inside of the political situation, but equally, of course, it was not known to the mass of our readers.  Our very action <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>At the time of Schmitz' appearance in politics, Abraham Ruef was a power in the Republican party ring.  After Schmitz' nomination, however, Ruef was shrewd enough to divine that in all likelihood labor, being indignant over the treatment given it in the teamsters' strike, would rally to Schmitz and elect him in a three cornered fight.  Ruef, therefore, broke from the Republican ring and went over to Schmitz, taking with him many strong political influences.  He and his group knew the political game, knew the ropes, controlled the bosses in many districts of the city, and Ruef's going over to Schmitz turned the tide in his favor.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Schmitz was elected.  I was furious.  While at that time I was not greatly in sympathy with labor, I felt that Schmitz did not even represent labor, that he would not be true even to the men who had elected him, and I was doubly indignant.  I smarted under the belief that the Bulletin had betrayed San Francisco, had helped destroy all that Phelan had done for the city.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was perfectly sure that if we had supported Tobin he would have beaten Schmitz, and I still believe this.  Ruef's going to Schmitz, and the Bulletin's going to Wells, undoubtedly defeated Tobin, and we were as much responsible for Schmitz' election in his first campaign as any other force in San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>My experience in this election had enlightened me considerably.  I had begun to feel a disinterested enthusiasm for decent government, and a genuine hatred of graft.  I thought I saw a great opportunity for Schmitz, and, sending for Thomas Boyle, business manager of the Bulletin, who was a great friend of Schmitz', I gave him this message to take to the newly elected mayor:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Tell Schmitz that while I fought him in the campaign not to let that linger in his mind, but to remember this, that he has in his hands the greatest opportunity that any politician has had in America for many a long year.  If he will be really true to labor, to the people that elected him, and not associate himself with the evil forces in San Francisco, there is nothing that he can not achieve politically in the United States.  He can become governor, he can become senator, can have a very brilliant political career.  Tell him that, and warn him against associating with Abraham Ruef, for Ruef will lead him astray."</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>Schmitz' return answer was that he thanked me very much for my advice, but that Ruef was his friend and they were going to stand together.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was the beginning of the struggle that led into every corner of San Francisco life, into the depths of the underworld, to attempted murder and dynamiting and assassination, that involved some of the biggest men in the American business world, and wrecked them; that ended by filling San Francisco with armed thugs and overturning the Southern Pacific rule of California.</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>TRICKING THE CITY</P>
194.sgm:<P>IMMEDIATELY after Schmitz' installation as mayor of San Francisco petty graft began to crop up on every side.  Scraps of talk, small bits of evidence, little intimations, came in to me at my office.  I heard of bootblack stands, houses of prostitution, gambling joints, that were being forced to pay small graft money.  Nothing definite, merely hints here and there, a glimpse of something not quite clearly seen, an atmosphere that began to envelop the city.  The big graft did not develop at once, but the times were ripening for it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>From the time of Schmitz' message to me I was bitterly in pursuit of him, doing my utmost to get hold of something he had done or was doing that would uncover the underground truth of his activities.  It was something like playing blindman's buff.  Constantly I clutched at something that I could feel, but could not quite get hold of.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The graft within the Bulletin office was a different matter.  I saw it clearly, and I felt more and more intensely that we must clean our own hands if we were to be at all consistent in our attitude toward other grafters.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The fact that we were taking money from the railroad, the gas company and other public-looting corporations was known in the business office.  As a result that department had become permeated with an atmosphere of chicanery and dishonesty.  There was petty graft in the circulation department as well as in the business office.  Bulletin men, by various shady pretexts, were getting rugs, pianos, bicycles, furniture, jewelry, everything they could get hold of, in trade for advertising.  The books were juggled.</P>
194.sgm:<P>That this was a more or less common practice at that time made no difference to me.  I was intensely desirous of cleaning up the whole office, in all its departments, so that I could go after Schmitz with clean hands.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Every step I took was combated, within our own organization, by Crothers.  He took that attitude not for any reason of inherent dishonesty, but because, like all men, he wanted money, and because he was by temperament opposed to any change in existing conditions.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He came from the middle class in Canada, of a family that was well enough off to educate him at McGill University.  He graduated from McGill with high honors, excelling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>He had nothing but disdain for men in his employ who were not university men.  He overlooked the fact that I was a printer boy in early life, and had been working ever since I was old enough to work, excusing it on the ground that I was unusually clever in making a paper go, and in making money for him.  He forgave me for not being a university man, but he had no great respect for my way of thinking.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The methods to which I was opposed were established methods, and he saw no reason for changing them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At that time the Evening Post was owned by the Southern Pacific Railroad, under cover of an ostensible ownership in the name of Hugh Hume.  Hume had bought the paper some years earlier on a very narrow margin of money, and, being unable to swing it financially, he had finally turned it over to the railroad company.  W. H. Mills, controller of California's newspapers for the railroads, became absolute director and editor of the Post.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One day Mills suggested to the Bulletin's business manager that there was no sense in a fight between the two papers for the city printing.  He offered a plan, which our business manager laid before Crothers.  The plan was this: The Bulletin should bid for the printing at a higher rate than the Post, the Post bidding 20 cents a square, and thus getting the city printing.  The 20 cents should then be divided between the two papers, the Bulletin getting 9 cents and the Post 11 cents, the Bulletin performing no service for the 9 cents other than the collusive bidding.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was a felony, and I protested with all the vigor that I could summon, using every possible argument against it.  I feared that the thing would become known, ruining the paper, and that what little reputation I had acquired as an honest journalist would be destroyed.  I argued with Crothers that we would gain very little in money, perhaps a few thousand dollars, and that the risk was too great; but neither Crothers nor the business manager would listen to me.  They insisted that it was a perfectly good business venture, and the paper needed the money.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The agreement was entered into.  Subsequently Mills died and the Post was sold to Thomas Garrett, who promptly discovered the felonious agreement, which appeared in the books.  He refused to carry out the contract with us, would pay us no money, so that the dishonest deal had only brought us a few hundred dollars.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Later Garrett put in a good sized bid for the city printing.  The Bulletin bid under him.  But Garrett produced to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>I still hoped and struggled to make the Bulletin an honest paper, according to my definition of honesty at that time.  It had long been customary for San Francisco newspapers to issue what was called an "annual edition."  It was always, and still is, largely a holdup.  The corporations and wealthy individuals were always bled for sums as large as they could be induced to give up, and they received nothing of value in return, save a vaguely defined "friendliness."  We had an annual edition under way at this time, and I went personally to the various corporations and urged them not to contribute.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went to Tirey L. Ford, general counsel for the United Railroads, and asked him if he had promised any sum of money to our special edition.  He replied that he had agreed to pay $1000 for certain publicity.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I asked, "Is there anything you really want to advertise?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No," he said, "I am only doing it as a favor to the paper."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well," I said, "it won't do you any good, Mr. Ford.  You'd better save your money, because I shall criticise the United Railroads if I think they deserve it, no matter what you pay.  If you do what is right toward the people, you will receive commendation; otherwise you will receive condemnation, and your money will be wasted.  I want you to understand that thoroughly."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He smiled and said: "That settles it.  I won't pay the thousand dollars."  I said: "I'd rather you didn't."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I then called on the manager of the gas company and had the same conversation with him.  He had promised our business manager to contribute quite a large sum, and he withdrew the promise.  I visited others for the same purpose, so that when I had finished there was little left of our special edition except violent indignation from the men who were working on it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was fully awake by this time to the grafting idea and saw the inconsistency of my hammering away at Ruef and Schmitz for doing the same thing that we were doing.  I wanted to be clean, and I wanted the paper to be clean.  I was dimly conscious that I was as bad as Ruef, as long as I was taking part of my salary from the same source, and I felt it keenly.</P>
194.sgm:<P>About this time I encountered the coming into San Francisco of the Home Telephone Company.  They wanted a franchise, and they had millions back of them.  One day Mark Gerstle, a prominent local capitalist, called on me in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>I told him he could not have an inch of it, not for $200 a line.  Our columns were not for sale.  If he incorporated we would publish the news of the incorporation, free; we would publish all legitimate news concerning the company, and if they treated the people well we would commend them editorially.  But that was all the reading matter he would get from us.  If he wanted to advertise with us he could get display advertising.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said that he had a contract with the business office for reading matter.  I told him that if any reading matter was sent up to me I would refuse to publish it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Our talk resulted in his going downstairs and breaking his contract.  He did not advertise at all in the Bulletin.  He did use other papers in the way he had hoped to use us, and later, in the graft fight, the fact came out in his testimony before the grand jury that he had done so.  The fact also came out, testified to by Gerstle, that the Bulletin had refused to take his money for the use of our columns.</P>
194.sgm:<P>If Gerstle's testimony had been otherwise, at that crisis in the graft fight, it would have done us incalculable harm, utterly destroyed our usefulness in the fight.  Of course, I had no anticipation of the importance of my attitude at the time I took it.  It was merely in line with the policy I was trying to establish.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Meantime, I was continuing my hammering away at Ruef and Schmitz, and although I had accomplished little I had succeeded in enraging them.  Suddenly one day our newsboys struck.  Without warning, as our papers were coming from the presses, ready to go out on the streets, the waiting crowd of boys turned into a howling mob, storming our windows with sticks and stones.</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>ON THE SCENT</P>
194.sgm:<P>GANGSTERS in touch with Ruef and Schmitz had organized a newsboys' union, held a rousing meeting and declared a strike against the Bulletin.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The excuse was a pretty thing, merely a subterfuge.  Like the other evening papers, we were selling the boys two papers for a nickel.  They demanded three for a nickel.  But we did not learn even this until after they had descended on us, a storming mob, breaking our windows, attacking our clerks, besieging the office.  Policemen stood idly on the corners and watched this, doing nothing, under orders.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was impossible to get a Bulletin out on the streets for sale.  Gangs cut the harness from the horses on the delivery wagons that we tried to get out.  They stormed our drivers.  Professional thugs broke the arms of loyal carriers, beat up our solicitors with brass knuckles.  Word had come down from above that the Bulletin must be forced to stop publication in San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It did not take me long to suspect the origin of all this trouble.  It lasted, however, for several days before I was able to get hold of the men who could stop it.  On those days, coming out of the office, I was met by a storm of stones, bricks, bits of wood, everything that could be found and thrown.  Whenever I appeared on the sidewalks I was surrounded by a clamoring mob, and had to fight my way through it at every step.  I enjoyed it immensely, and had the time of my life handling the situation.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Within a few days I was able to put my hand on the leaders of the framed-up strike.  They were well known tenderloin characters, inspired (as I knew) by Ruef and Schmitz.  I sent for them to come to my office and said to them: "Twenty-four hours and a thousand dollars to break the Bulletin strike."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Their leader said, "I've got to have more time than that."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No," I said.  "Twenty-four hours."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He thought it over.  "A thousand dollars?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes," I said.  "Tommorrow at this time, if the strike is over."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said he would see what next could be done, and left.  The next night the boys who had been attacking us went in a mob to Ruef's house and threatened him with violence.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>In the midst of all this I had a vague intimation that Ruef and Schmitz and the chief of police were taking money from the Chinese gamblers.  I could not prove it, but I felt that they were.  I was so angry at the whole situation that I printed on the first page of the Bulletin pictures of the chief of police, Ruef, Schmitz and Police Commissioner Drinkhouse, surrounded by a big frame of hands pointing to them, with a caption saying, "One or more of these men are taking bribes in Chinatown."</P>
194.sgm:<P>There was something of a sensation when this appeared.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ruef immediately ordered the Police Commission to subpena me to appear before that body and testify as to my knowledge.  I went down, and they demanded that I tell them what information I had as to their taking money.  I said, "I haven't any, except my belief.  I am positive that some one of those four is taking money.  I am not prepared now to say which one, but I am going to find out."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The situation stood at this deadlock when one day Grant Carpenter, an attorney for the Chinese Six Companies, came to my office and told me that Chan Cheung was the paymaster of the police department.  Carpenter said that Chan was responsible for several murders, that he knew the highbinders whom Chan had hired to commit these murders, and that, by putting pressure on Chan with this knowledge, we could make the Chinese reveal what he knew of the police graft.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This sounded good.  I was delighted.  However, before putting the screws on Chan Cheung I determined to work on Sergeant Tom Ellis, who was in charge of the police squad in Chinatown.  I believed that with this information as to Chan we might be able to induce Tom Ellis to confess.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I sent for Captain John Seymour, who had been at one time chief of police, but who was now working for the Fair estate, and asked him to tell Tom Ellis that if he would confess to having been bribed, and would tell us where the money came from, that I would put him on the Bulletin payroll for two years at $125 a month.  If he confessed he would, of course, lose his job, and this salary from me would protect him against loss.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Seymour undertook to do this, and succeeded in getting a statement from Ellis that he had been paid $200 a week for seven weeks prior to this time, by Chan; that he did not know who paid other policemen or whether or not Ruef or Schmitz were paid.  He understood that ordinary patrolmen got $40 a week, but he did not know whether Schmitz or Ruef or Chief Whitman were getting money, although <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>Accordingly, one afternoon at 2 o'clock, when the grand jury was in session, Ellis walked into the room, laid $1400 in bills on the table and said, "I received that from Chan in Chinatown.  That's seven weeks' pay to overlook Chinese gambling.  I don't know about the others.  I only know about myself.  There's the money."  Then he walked out.</P>
194.sgm:<P>That was the end of that.  I had done nothing except to put Tom Ellis on my payroll for two years.  I had not got Schmitz or Ruef or Whitman or any one of the commissioners.  I had simply landed $125 a month on the Bulletin payroll.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Then I determined to get the truth out of Chan.  There was a man on the grand jury, Ed Bowes, who was a good fighter and a loyal friend of mine.  I sent for Grant Carpenter and arranged with him to program the highbinders, the murderers, to testify against Chan before the grand jury.  Then Carpenter and Ed Bowes and I planned a Belasco drama effect.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I decided that we would take Chan down to the grand jury room, in impressive silence, and at the proper moment the district attorney, who was friendly to us, should walk in solemnly and say:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Chan Cheung!  You think that you are going home to China to spend the rest of your days in ease and comfort, with your family and your children, but you are not.  You are going to be hanged."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Then he would turn toward the door, and through it would come the highbinders, one by one.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Is this the man that hired you to kill so-and-so?" the district attorney would ask each highbinder as he faced Chan.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes, that is the man."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Several times this would be done, one after the other, and when it was finished the district attorney should turn to Chan and say:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"We don't want to hurt you.  We don't want to harm you at all.  All we want to know is the amount of the money that you pay the police department and public officials and to whom you pay it.  Then you can go free, go back to China and spend your old age in comfort and plenty."</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was the plan, the stage was set, the district attorney and the highbinders coached and rehearsed.  Everything was ready.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Then I found that Chan Cheung was aware that I was trying to get him, and that he would not come out of his room.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>A CHINESE WHO WOULD NOT SQUEAL</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE trap was all set and baited, the trap that we hoped would catch Ruef and Schmitz and Whitman, or at least one of the three, and Chan Cheung, in his room in Chinatown, lay low, refusing to come out.</P>
194.sgm:<P>For several days we had a man watching and waiting for him, with no result.  Then one Sunday afternoon I got Ed Bowes up in my room at the Palace Hotel and said to him: "Something must be done.  Now, Ed, we've got to have a friend of Chan ring him up on the telephone and tell him to come downstairs to meet him.  Can you fix that?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes, I'll do that," he said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I want you to be waiting with a hack, and the minute Chan appears to throw him into the hack and drive off.  Tell him you are an officer of the grand jury.  Carry him off to the Occidental Hotel, put him in a room, and stay there with him.  See that he doesn't have any opium, and don't give him the slightest hint of what is going to happen to him.  Tommorrow morning take him to the Mills building and up to the grand jury room, and we'll do the rest."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ed Bowes did this, succeeding in kidnaping Chan without a slip, and sixteen hours later brought him into the grand jury room.  The old Chinese was shaking and nervous, excited, not knowing what would be done to him, and suffering from having no opium for sixteen hours.  The district attorney came in solemnly, and our whole program was carried out as completely as a play on the stage.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Chan Cheung," said the district attorney, "you think that you are going back to China, to live the rest of your days in comfort and prosperity, with your children around you.  This will never happen.  You will be hanged."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Chan did not say a word.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One by one the highbinders slid in like ghosts, without a sound, and to each one as he came in the district attorney said: "Is this the man that hired you to kill so-and-so?"  Each highbinder looked at Chan for a long moment, then bowed his head and said: "This is the man."</P>
194.sgm:<P>When the murderers had come and gone the district attorney made his solemn speech: "Chan Cheung, we don't want to hang you.  We don't want you to die in a prison, on a scaffold, with a rope around your neck.  Tell us who takes the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>44</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>Chan listened to this in silence, without moving a muscle.  Then he said, looking around the room: "Where your nineteen men?  One, two, three, four--grand jury nineteen men.  I no sabe."  He shut up and would not say another word.  He had met only the police committee of the grand jury.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was reported to me, in another room, and I was savage.  "Well, put him back in the room at the hotel.  We'll give him nineteen men," I said.  "Put him back.  And give him no opium."</P>
194.sgm:<P>On Tuesday morning I got a courtroom, a Superior Court room, with the big mahogany desk and the trappings and properties of the courtroom all there, rich and impressive.  The grand jury was there, in the jury seats, nineteen men, all looking very solemn.  The foreman sat on the judge's bench in state.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Chan Cheung was brought from the Occidental Hotel and marched in silence through the big room to a place before the judge's bench.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Now," the foreman said, severely, "tell us.  Give us this information about paying money to the police, Chief Whitman, and so on."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Chan would not speak.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"All right.  You don't tell us, we will indict you for those murders and hang you."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No sabe," Chan said.  It was impossible to get another word from him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The handcuffs were clapped on him, he was indicted for the murders, and still he would not talk.  "No sabe," he said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Then he was thrown into a patrol wagon and taken away to the county jail.  Locked up in the county jail in a small cell, he was given the worst kind of treatment, of course.  But never a word.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He had come from China to learn some of the white man's ways, but he had not learned all of them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>And all the while Chief Whitman and Ruef and Schmitz were smiling around the streets of San Francisco.  They knew the Oriental.  They knew we could boil him in oil and he would not talk.  They knew the Oriental, and I didn't.  But I learned to know him then.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The thing ended with nothing accomplished, except Tom Ellis on the Bulletin payroll for $125 a month.  Chan was released on a writ of habeas corpus and has since died.  By that time the matter had dragged on and on until every one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Of course, I did not give up.  I had to abandon the Chinese gamblers, but I began again on the municipal crib.  I thought that if I could only link the administration up with taking money from the women at 620 Jackson street, at last I would have something to wake up the people of San Francisco.  They surely would not stand for a mayor who took money from prostitutes.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This house, that I called "the municipal crib," had been built by Schmitz contractors, Schmitz had been interested in the construction of it, and there were all the earmarks about the whole affair that would indicate that the administration had knowledge of the use of the place, and would also have some control over the revenue.  There were sixty or seventy women in the place, and I was positive that they were all paying revenue to Schmitz.</P>
194.sgm:<P>But all my efforts at getting positive evidence of it were fruitless.  I had the grand jury raid the place two or three times, take the women and question them.  I exhausted every expedient I could think of, without result.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One morning when I had practically given it up, a quite attractive young girl came into my office at the Bulletin and said:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'm from 620 Jackson street, Mr. Older, `the municipal crib,' and I want to help you.  I haven't very much information, but I have a little I'll gladly give you, if you will see that I'm protected.  Of course, they will be very angry when they find out that I have come to you, and I don't know what may happen.  If you will hide me somewhere until it's over, and then give me money to leave town, that's all I want."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Of course I agreed to this, and she told me what she knew, enough to confirm my suspicions, but hardly enough to take into court.  She saw herself that she did not have very definite legal evidence, and said: "I have a very dear friend over there, Clara, who knows more than I do.  She is quite intimate with one of the men who collect for the higher-ups, and she could tell you something worth while."</P>
194.sgm:<P>That evening she brought Clara up to my office.  Clara, a startling-looking girl, black haired and black eyed, dressed in black velvet, flashed up and down the office, panting with indignation, furious, abusing me for even thinking that she would turn on the people who ran the place.  Lily tried to calm her, but she raged, calling us both everything she could think of.</P>
194.sgm:<P>However, at last we quieted her, and prevailed upon her to promise to go before the grand jury the following day.  She <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Those who were interested in the municipal crib had learned immediately that Lily had come to my office.  They hunted the town over until they found the hotel in which I had placed her, registered under an assumed name.  When she came out of this hotel next morning to keep her appointment with me at 10 o'clock, there was a coupe waiting at the curb before the door, and in it a landlady who had once been kind to Lily when she was ill.  They had taken the trouble to search for this landlady, to find her and send her there.</P>
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194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>THE STORY OF LILY</P>
194.sgm:<P>LILY, hurrying to keep her appointment with me, was stopped by this landlady who had been kind to her.  The landlady urged her to get into the coupe and drive away with her.  She promised Lily that she should to given ample money, sent anywhere in the world that she wanted to go, and provided for.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You can go to China, to Japan, wherever you like, and live like a lady," she said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No; I've got to keep my appointment with Mr. Older," Lily said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"But he's the very man we don't want you to see!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I've got to go.  I told him I would," Lily insisted.  She refused to get into the carriage, and hurried to my office.</P>
194.sgm:<P>She and Clara went before the grand jury, and Lily told all that she knew, simply and directly.  But Clara had turned on us again and would tell nothing of any value.  Lily's testimony alone was not sufficient to warrant issuing an indictment, and so that hope was destroyed as so many had been.</P>
194.sgm:<P>According to my promise, I gave Lily a small amount of money, enough to take her to some town in Nevada, to which she wished to go, and she dropped out of sight.  Many years later, when I had long forgotten the incident, I received a frantic telephone message asking me to come at once to an address far out on Mission street.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went, and found Clara, very much changed, quietly dressed and pale, in a comfortable, plainly furnished flat.  She told me that Lily was dead, shot by a drunken man in a house in the interior of the state.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'm sending her body back to her people," Clara said.  "They don't know that she's been out of town; she's kept them thinking that she's here working.  I don't know what to tell them.  I wrote a letter to her mother, saying that she had died of typhoid fever.  Then I was afraid they would see the bullet holes, so I wrote another, and said she had been shot by accident, on the street.  I don't know which one to send."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I told her to send the second one.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I asked Clara for the details of Lily's death.  She told me that a wealthy oil man shot her and then killed himself.  "He wanted Lily to marry him," Clara said, "and he killed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>We talked for a few minutes, and she said: "Do you notice how much I've changed?  I'm married now to a man I knew when I was a little girl."  She seemed very contented and happy.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After the failure of that attempt to produce evidence for the grand jury, my struggle with Schmitz became for a time purely political.  The campaign of 1905 was approaching, the legislature was in session in Sacramento, and political events were becoming most interesting.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Gavin McNab had been having a violent quarrel with the Examiner.  The Examiner was opposing McNab's domination of politics in San Francisco, and in the course of their investigation of his affairs they had discovered that the manager of one of McNab's building and loan associations was an embezzler and had done many a dishonest thing.  The Examiner was making a strong fight against this man, in order to attack McNab, who kept him in his position.  In an effort to discredit McNab by bringing out more fully the story of this man's dishonesty, the Examiner was working through the building and loan committee in the Senate.</P>
194.sgm:<P>McNab was attorney not only for this particular building and loan association, but also for the Phoenix, which was under fire.  The man in charge of this second company was Clarence Grange.  By forcing an investigation of these companies through the building and loan committee of the Senate, then in session, the Examiner hoped to bring out the facts behind McNab's control of the two associations.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Grange had not been personally attacked, but he feared that any hostile investigation of the two companies might result in harm to them, and McNab shared his apprehensions.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While the companies were under investigation by the committee, a newspaperman named Joseph Jordan, who had become a lobbyist in Sacramento, came down to San Francisco one Sunday morning and called on Grange.  He told Grange that for $1650 he would guarantee that Senators Emmons, Bunker, French and Wright, members of the committee, would vote to whitewash the companies.  He had to pay each of them $350, and he wanted $250 for himself.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Grange agreed to give him the money, but, before doing so, sent for Gavin McNab.  McNab had a brilliant idea, but, saying nothing of it to Grange, he agreed to the plan.</P>
194.sgm:<P>That evening he telephoned me, saying that he had something of importance to tell me, and wanted me to come immediately to my room in the Palace Hotel.  When I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"Now," he said, "I've got this thing all figured out.  Tomorrow a man will come up to your office with a package.  You have $1650 ready in greenbacks, before he comes, and you mark them yourself.  When this man comes with the package, you take it from him, step into the next room and take his money out of the package.  Put your marked bills inside, give him the package.  Then put your money back into the bank and leave the rest to me.  I'll see that each of those committee members gets his money, and I'll have them watched so we can prove that they received it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "But--but Grange thinks he's bribing them, doesn't he?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>And McNab gave a step or two of the "Highland Fling," crying: "Yes!  That's the beauty of it.  He does think so.  Isn't it great?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>The next day, as agreed, I procured the money and marked it, taking photographs of the marked bills.  The man arrived, I took the package from him, changed the money, returned the package to him, and he went out.  Then I set to work to prepare the story.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I made a four page layout of it, with pictures of the marked money, pictures of the four Senators, flaring headlines, and every detail of the story.  I was obliged to trust thirty men in the Bulletin office with the story, and not one of them let out a word of it to the other papers.  We worked all one Sunday, printing 20,000 copies of this extra, and I hired a special train on the Southern Pacific Railroad, placed the papers in the car, and held it for orders.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Meantime McNab had the money paid, covering every move in the transaction by witnesses.  He employed Frank Nicol, a prominent attorney of Stockton, to prepare a statement disclosing the bribery, and arranged that he should rise to a question of privilege in the Senate and read this document on the floor.  The four Senators who had received the money would be at their desks, and this would be their first knowledge that they had been caught.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Everything was arranged when I left for Sacramento.  Franklin K. Lane happened to be here, and Arthur McEwen, a well known writer.  I told them about it and they went with me, to see the fun.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>TRAPPING FOUR SENATORS</P>
194.sgm:<P>ON MONDAY, when the Senate opened, McEwen, Lane and myself were sitting in the Senate chamber, well up in front, so that we could watch the expressions of the four Senators when the story of the bribery was read.  I had a reporter at my side, and as soon as the Senate convened he opened a telephone line to the Bulletin office in San Francisco, and kept it open.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The Senate opened with the usual solemnity and prayer.  As soon as possible Nichol rose to a question of privilege, spread open his document, and began to read.  I whispered to the reporter to telephone to San Francisco, and the special train started, bringing the Bulletin extras.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The four Senators went white when they realized the meaning of Nichol's statement.  Lane, McEwen and I watched their changing expressions.  When Nichol had finished each one of them rose and stammered a feeble and blundering reply, pale and trembling.  Then uproar broke loose in the Senate.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Stormy speeches were made.  An investigation was demanded, a committee was appointed.  By the time the Senate adjourned newsboys were swarming into the lobby with the Bulletins, carrying the story.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Joe Jordan was there.  He rushed to the telephone and called up Grange in his office in the Mills Building, where he had been sitting all day unconscious that he had not committed a felony.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Have you seen the Bulletin?"  Jordan demanded, wildly excited.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Grange said: "No.  Why?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Go out and get one!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Grange did so, and discovered that he was a hero, a social reformer, a public spirited citizen.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He was subpenaed to appear before the investigating committee of the Senate, and at the hearing he said that he felt that the corruption of the senatorial body of California was an outrage; that it was an offense to every honest citizen; that he had felt it his duty to his state to devise this method of disclosing the corruptibility of the elected representatives of the people.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Of course, I knew the truth.  I knew that he had intended to bribe those Senators, that he had been surprised <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>All four of the Senators were indicted.  Bunkers went to San Quentin for a term of years.  Emmons also became a convict.  Wright fled to Mexico, and French was acquitted and ran again for the Senate, getting 3000 votes in his district.</P>
194.sgm:<P>My knowledge of the truth of this matter was of great value to me later, resulting, indeed, in the nomination of a candidate for Mayor against Schmitz in the approaching election.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Herrin had become fearful of Ruef's growing power in San Francisco.  He saw in Ruef a rival who was becoming dangerously strong, so he agreed with us, the reformers, that the Schmitz machine must be defeated in the coming primaries.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At about this time Fairfax Wheelan, a prominent merchant here, became imbued with the idea that he should take a hand in reforming San Francisco, and the first move that he made was to organize the San Francisco Republican League.  The purpose of this organization was to bring about a coalition of the Democrats and Republicans in the mayoralty election, so that there would not occur again a three cornered fight, during which Schmitz could slip into office.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Wheelan appointed on this league a number of well known men.  He gave me one man, Ed Bowes; he appointed one for De Young of the Chronicle, one for Herrin, and the rest of the league was made up of well known politicians.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This group agreed to give me the power of bringing together the two groups, the McNab group and the Fairfax Wheelan group.  They also agreed that if Herrin would play fair and join them in the fight to beat Ruef in the primaries they would work harmoniously with the railroad organization.  I was friendly to all the factions and undertook the task of unifying them in the approaching fight.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The railroad people, Jerry Burke, Arthur Fisk and George Hatton, representing Herrin, told me that I should have the negative power on the candidate for mayor; that is, that they would not insist on any candidate whom I opposed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The three groups agreed that the Republicans should have the mayor and the Democrats should have the other offices.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The first name that Burke and Hatton presented to me was that of Judge Sloss.  I told them that I did not think he could be elected.  He was a good man, but he was not a good mixer, not a good campaigner, not the kind of man who could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I then suggested Colonel Kirkpatrick, manager of the Palace Hotel.  I knew that he was a Herrin man, but I also knew that he was financially incorruptible.  He was a good mixer, fond of horses, a good story teller, a man about town, who drank a little, had a lot of magnetism, possessed all the qualities that I thought a candidate must have in order to be elected.  Burke and Hatton were glad to accept him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Before presenting the name of Kirkpatrick to McNab, I went down to his office with Thomas Hickey and said: "Mr. McNab, very soon I am going to bring you a name from the Republicans for you to indorse in your Democratic caucus, and I want you to accept it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You mean on sight, and unseen?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said, "Yes."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You mean that you will put the name in an envelope, seal the envelope and give it to me, and that whatever name I find I'll accept it?"  I said: "Yes, if you want to put it that way."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said: "All right.  I'll do it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The next day I brought him the name of Kirkpatrick.  He flew into a violent rage and said that Kirkpatrick was a Herrin man.  I admitted that he was, but pointed out my reasons for urging him as a candidate.  "I want you to accept him.  I want you to do it," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I left, with no definite assurance from him, and I was suspicious from that moment that McNab had some candidate of his own that he was planning to nominate in conjunction with Fairfax Wheelan of the Republican League.  In fact, I had heard rumors to that effect, and the man had been mentioned--Harry Baer, who was at that time the Republican auditor of San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>However, the good faith of McNab and Wheelan was pledged to the agreement with the railroad people, and I made one more effort.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>PARTRIDGE IS NOMINATED</P>
194.sgm:<P>I FELT that our hope of preventing Schmitz from again becoming mayor lay in combining all the Republican and Democratic forces behind one man, to be the opposition candidate.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It seemed to me that success had been almost in my hand.  Wheelan of the Republican League, McNab, controlling the Democratic strength, and Herrin, dictator of the Southern Pacific machine, had all agreed to back the man I chose.  When I saw that McNab and Wheelan were conspiring to defeat that agreement, I was in a cold, fighting rage.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went to the railroad people and suggested, since McNab objected to Kirkpatrick, that we substitute John Lackman.  He had been supervisor and sheriff, and, justly or unjustly, he had been given the title of "Honest" John Lackman.  I knew that he was a railroad man, but I thought that he was as good as anything we could get for mayor.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When I suggested "Honest" John to Jerry Burke and Hatton they said, "Surely.  He is all right.  We will stand for him."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I telephoned to San Anselmo, where he was staying, and asked him to come over at once, without a moment's delay.  He hastened to Hatton's office in the Crocker building, and I explained the situation to him, saying that we would run him for mayor, with both the Democratic and Republican nominations.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He agreed to run, and Jerry Burke said to him, "All we ask of you, John, speaking for the Republican party, is that when you are elected you give us an even break."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Lackman replied, "Why, certainly.  I will do that.  It's a fair request."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I hurried from Hatton's office to McNab and told him that I had hit upon John Lackman for the coalition candidate.  He considered the suggestion for a moment, and said, "I think maybe something can be done with Lackman.  We'll all meet you in your office tomorrow morning at 10 o'clock and talk it over."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The next morning at 10 o'clock Wheelan, McNab and one or two others came to my office.  Wheelan began the conversation by laying on my desk a typewritten sheet, containing the names of every office in the mayor's power to fill, with the name of a man for each.  He asked me whether <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>When I had read that paper I leaned across my desk and looked at him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"That's a felony!"  I said.  "Isn't it?  You're a lawyer, Mr. McNab.  Isn't that a felony?"  McNab hesitated.  Then he said, "Yes, Older is right.  It is a felony.  A pre-election bargain is a felony."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Wheelan was momentarily staggered by the situation.  He said that perhaps we had better wait a while, and discuss the matter later.</P>
194.sgm:<P>They left my office, and went to see Lackman.  They told him that I had suggested him as coalition candidate for the nomination.  Then, pulling out this list of offices, they asked him if he would appoint the men whose names they had chosen.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said, "I certainly will not.  The railroad people haven't asked anything of me but a square deal, and I'm going to give it them, and to you, and to all the others.  I promise that, and that's all I promise.  This thing you're talking about is against the law."</P>
194.sgm:<P>They came back to me that afternoon and refused to accept him as their candidate.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The Republican League was to meet next morning, and by this time I had learned definitely that McNab, in league with Wheelan, had decided to nominate Harry Baer, breaking their agreement with the railroad people.  I spent the night thinking it over.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Early next morning I sent for John S. Partridge, a young and promising lawyer, fairly well known in politics, and a member of the Republican League.  He was an upright, upstanding young fellow, known to have lived a clean life and to be thoroughly reliable.  I invited him into my office and said to him, "John, it's you for mayor.  Don't say a word about it to any one."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He was stunned.  He said, "You don't mean it.  You are joking.  Why--how could it be done?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Never mind how it can be done.  You go up to the meeting and sit in there.  Don't say a word, just watch it work out."</P>
194.sgm:<P>When he had gone I got in touch with the railroad people again and asked them if they were satisfied with Partridge.  They immediately said that Partridge was all right.  Then I sat down and wrote an editorial.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In it I revealed every detail of the attempted felony of Wheelan and McNab, denounced them for it, washed my hands of the entire crowd, and cast them to the wolves.  With this editorial in proof, I sent for Ed Bowes, my man in the Republican League, and one other member of the league.</P>
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194.sgm:<P>"I want Partridge nominated by 2 o'clock today.  If he is not endorsed at 2 o'clock, this editorial will be published.  Read it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>They read it.  They were very much excited, and rushed out of the office with hardly a word.  At 1 o'clock Bowes came back, perspiring, and asked me if I would make it 2:30.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No.  Two o'clock, or the editorial goes.  That is our press time."</P>
194.sgm:<P>At 2 o'clock Bowes rang me up and told me that Partridge had been selected by the Republican League.</P>
194.sgm:<P>McNab had felt that some embarrassing situation might arise during the day, so he had told his friends that he was going to Sacramento to try a case in the Supreme Court.  Then he remained all day buried in his office here, thinking that the Harry Baer scheme was going through as programmed, without a hitch.  Early in the day Hugh Burke, a reporter for The Call, called at his office and McNab saw him, knowing that Burke was not in on the fact that he was supposed to be in Sacramento.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burke asked, "Who's the man for mayor, Mac?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Baer," said McNab.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burke said, "What about Older?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Oh, to hell with Older!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>At 3 o'clock, after Partridge had been nominated.  Burke dropped into McNab's office again, and, supposing that McNab knew what had happened, remarked, "Well, I see it's Partridge."</P>
194.sgm:<P>McNab, startled, said, "Partridge?  Oh, yes--you mean for chairman of the Republican convention."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No! mayor," said Burke.  "He's been endorsed by the Republican League."</P>
194.sgm:<P>McNab, wholly unprepared, leaped from his chair and exploded.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When I came into his office at 5 o'clock the "old guard" was all lined up against the wall in a row.  McNab was purple in the face.  He said to me:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"So it's that foul bird, Partridge, is it?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes, it's Partridge," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, let's see you nominate him.  Let's see you get him through the conventions."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"But," I said, "he's my man and you agreed to nominate the man that I brought you."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Just let's see you put that bird in!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>That frightened me.  The Republican convention met that evening and I feared McNab might have sufficient influence in the convention to defeat Partridge.  I went out and hunted up Partridge and told him that he must nominate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>The convention met in old Pioneer Hall.  When it assembled I was walking up and down in a dark alley beside the building.  Through the window I saw hats going up in the air and heard a roar of cheers, and I knew that Partridge was in.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I walked out on to Market street, and found McNab standing there with Fay and Braunhart.  "Partridge is nominated," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You aren't going to get him through the Democratic convention," McNab said.  "If you put him over on us it will be over my dead body."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said good night, and walked away.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Note--John Lackman, in a letter, objects to my saying that I knew him to be a railroad man, and adds that "there is not a single vote or action of mine on record, or destroyed, upon which any one could put the construction that I was a railroad man."  He also denies that McNab was one of the men who wanted to pledge him on patronage.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When I said I knew Lackman was a railroad man I based my statement upon the fact that Arthur Fisk, George Hatton and Jerry Burke, all representing Herrin, told me that Lackman was all right and would be acceptable to Herrin.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I did not say that McNab called on Lackman in the matter of patronage.  My recollection is that Rich and Wheelan called on him.  McNab did not.</P>
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194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>PLAYING MY LAST CARD</P>
194.sgm:<P>I WAS considerably disturbed by McNab's threat concerning the Democratic nomination.  With Partridge nominated by the Republicans, it needed only the nomination of another man by the Democrats to kill absolutely our hopes of defeating Schmitz.  Another three-cornered fight would inevitably put him back in office.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Now, McNab and Wheelan were not a whit less sincere than I in a desire to thrust Schmitz out of the mayor's chair.  Whatever motives actuated them--and we were all impelled by desire for power, prestige, success--they were earnest and sincere reformers in politics.  They wanted to clean the grafters out of San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>But when they went into politics they went into a dirty game, and they found it must be played in a dirty way.  They did not trust a railroad man to play fair with them, so they did not play fair with the railroad.  They did not know that nowhere in the world is honesty more necessary than among thieves.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The railroad did know this, and never, in my whole relations with them, did the Southern Pacific politicians break a promise.  The reformers did.  Wheelan and McNab had broken their agreement with me; they had broken their agreement with the railroad.  And the only hope of defeating Schmitz lay in standing shoulder to shoulder with the railroad in this fight.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was in despair.  If McNab, furious at my putting Partridge over on the Republican convention, nominated another man for the Democrats, the fight was lost before it began.  And I did not believe that there was any possible way in which I could nominate Partridge in the Democratic convention.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In this mood, I received a subpena from the Superior Court in Sacramento citing me to appear the following day as a witness in the Emmons case.  Emmons was on trial for accepting bribe money from Grange in that affair of the building and loan committee.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The subpena reached me late in the afternoon, and that night the Democratic caucus met to nominate its candidate for mayor.</P>
194.sgm:<P>That evening my wife and I were at the Palace Hotel.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"My God!  That's an awful thing to ask me to do," Dodge replied.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I know it.  But you must do it, doctor.  I'm desperate.  I must have Partridge nominated.  I tell you we've got to beat Schmitz."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"All right," he said.  "I'll do it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He went away, and shortly afterward Mrs. Older and I went down to dinner.  We were sitting at our table, in the old Palm Court of the Palace, when I happened to look up.  Through the glass that surrounded the court I saw the white face of Dr. Dodge.  I rose and went out to him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He was much agitated.  He said: "I gave the Scotchman your message."  I waited, and he went on.  "His reply was: `Tell that long-legged blank blank blank that if I am alive at 8 o'clock tonight Partridge will be nominated."</P>
194.sgm:<P>At 8 o'clock, with wild enthusiasm, Partridge was endorsed by the Democrats as the reform candidate for mayor.</P>
194.sgm:<P>That was a jubilant night for me.  The Bulletin next day was full of rejoicing in the prospective victory of right over all the powers of graft and corruption.  And this was sincere on my part, for I honestly believed that Ruef and Schmitz were the bad forces in San Francisco, and that when they were eliminated we could have a clean city.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I plunged immediately into a most malignant campaign against Schmitz.  The Bulletin was filled with cartoons showing Schmitz and Ruef in stripes.  Our editorials declared that these men should be in the penitentiary and would be put there eventually.  I spared no effort in running down and printing news stories to their discredit.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At this time I used to dine frequently at Marchand's a famous restaurant here, controlled by Pierre.  One evening when I entered Pierre met me with a face of despair and said: "Mr. Older, I'm a ruined man.  They're going to put me out on the sidewalk after all these years building up this business."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Why, Pierre, what is the trouble?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>He told me that the French restaurants were threatened with loss of their licenses.  I said, laughingly: "Why don't you see Ruef?"</P>
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194.sgm:<P>But he was utterly hopeless.  He said that nothing could save him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A few days later a friend telephoned my office and told me that the French restaurants had paid $10,000 for protection, and that they would not lose their licenses.  I rushed over to Marchand's.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Pierre was seated at a side table, his spectacles on his nose, contentedly reading his Chronicle and sipping black coffee, apparently at peace with the world.  I said to him, "You look happy, Pierre!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>He replied: "Yes, Mr. Older.  My troubles are over.  You know, when you are seeck, send for the doctor.  Well, and I send for the doctor--Dr. Ruef--and everything is all right."</P>
194.sgm:<P>This confirmed the information I had received over the telephone, and that afternoon the Bulletin printed the story with a flaring headline across the front page.  My recollection is that all the other papers permitted me to have this scoop without protest, and made no effort to follow up the story in their own columns.</P>
194.sgm:<P>My old hope of basing some criminal charge against Ruef and Schmitz flamed again and I interested the foreman of the grand jury in it.  He employed a well known lawyer and paid him a fee to look up the law and see if there was basis for criminal prosecution in the French restaurant story.  The lawyer put in two weeks on the case, wrote a report and sent it in with a bill to the grand jury, advising that nothing could be done.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Meanwhile the Partridge campaign was being waged with great enthusiasm on my part.  I did not for a moment believe that he could be defeated.  I was so wrought up that I could not believe that labor would stand by men so discredited as Schmitz and Ruef, and it was far out of the range of my thought to imagine that any great number of the business men would vote for them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Of course, McNab and Wheelan were deeply angered by the enforced nomination of Partridge and there were rumors that secretly they were working against him, but I had no evidence that they were.  Certainly they did nothing for him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I made what I considered at the time a very strong and effective fight.  Partridge campaigned the city, speaking in all the districts.  The burden of all his talks was the shameless graft that was going on.  The billboards were covered with his utterances, headed always with a big, attractive line, "Partridge Says--"  The Bulletin hammered ceaselessly at Schmitz.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Even on the day of election I could not be convinced that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Even one who was deaf and dumb and blind should have known the truth, but I didn't.  I went to my office on election night confident that we would win.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>PLANNING THE GRAFT PROSECUTION</P>
194.sgm:<P>AT SEVEN o'clock that night I sat in my office watching the news of our defeat flashing on the bulletin boards.  Schmitz was elected.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was incredible to me.  I could not believe it, though I knew it was true.  I could not believe that the people of San Francisco had again chosen the Schmitz-Ruef crowd to rule the city.  But they had.  The fight was over, and we were overwhelmingly defeated.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Crowds of Schmitz-Ruef enthusiasts were marching up and down the streets beneath the windows, yelling, half mad with excitement.  Rockets were going up, whistles were shrieking.  It seemed that all the powers of bedlam had broken loose.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Out in the local room the reporters were working at fever heat, checking up the returns and writing bulletins, in a confusion of noise and hurry and excitement.  In the earlier part of the evening various men who had been in the fight dropped into my office to say a word or two: "Well, we're beaten."  After a while they stopped coming.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Mrs. Older was with me, and Arthur McEwen, a well known writer, who had been helping make the fight on the Bulletin.  We did not say much.  We just sat there in despair.  McEwen said he was through.  He would not remain in the rotten town.  He was going back to New York the next day.  I could not do that.  I had to stay.</P>
194.sgm:<P>About 10 o'clock the mob outside, going mad with victory, attacked our office and smashed the windows.  They screamed and jeered, howling insults while the glass crashed.  When Mrs. Older and I came out of the office we were assailed with yells and hooted all the way down Market street to the door of our hotel.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went to bed feeling that the world, so far as we were concerned, was a hopeless place to live in.  At a late hour I fell asleep, only to be awakened almost immediately by the shouts of bellboys in the corridors.  They were calling that the Chronicle building was burning, that all the guests must rise and dress; the fire might extend to the Palace.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We hurriedly threw some thing into a dress suit case and rushed out into the hall.  Others were doing the same.  With other hastily dressed, excited, half delirious persons <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>62</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>A victorious skyrocket had been shot up into the sky, and descending on the Chronicle tower had set it on fire.  But against the blackness and excitement of that night it seemed like the breaking loose of unearthly fiends, as though the powers of darkness had clutched the city and were destroying it, as though the end of the world was upon us.  Overwrought as I was from the long fight and our defeat, nothing was too wild for me to imagine.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When, after some weeks, my mind returned sanely to the fight that I had lost, I reasoned this way about it: The people of San Francisco did not believe me.  They thought I had some ulterior political motive in fighting Ruef and Schmitz so desperately.  There was only one way in which they could be convinced that I was telling the truth.  I must prove my charges in court.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I recalled a speech Francis J. Heney had made one night during the election, in the Mechanics Pavilion.  He had said: "If the people of San Francisco ever want me to come back here and put Abe Ruef in the penitentiary, I'll come."</P>
194.sgm:<P>My mind dwelt on that.  I thought, "If I could only get Heney--"  He was at that time a conspicuous prosecutor of land frauds in Oregon, and had acquired considerable national reputation in this work.  If only I could get him--There was the French restaurant case.  Something could surely be done with that.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In my mad desire to get Schmitz and Ruef I conceived the idea of going to Washington and asking Heney to come to San Francisco to start a case in the courts.  I knew, of course, that he was working for President Roosevelt at that time in the Oregon land fraud cases, but my own obsession was so great that I believed I could convince Roosevelt that the graft in San Francisco was far more important than the land fraud cases in Oregon.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At any rate, I told Mrs. Older and Crothers that I was going.  They both said, of course, that it was a crazy thing for me to do, but I was much disturbed and excited, and the trip would perhaps be good for me.  They both believed that my plan was an idle dream, that nothing could come from it.  But I would rest and become calm, maybe, and the journey could do no harm.</P>
194.sgm:<P>So without letting anyone know, other than Crothers and Mrs. Older and Eustace Cullinan, who at that time was editorial writer on the Bulletin, I departed for Washington.</P>
194.sgm:<P>By appointment I met Heney at luncheon at the Willard Hotel, and told him my mission.  I also told him that I thought I had one definite case that he could make good on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>He asked me to meet Burns in his rooms that afternoon.  I did so, and we had a long talk.  Burns was eager to come and so was Heney, but Heney said: "We'll need some money."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "How much?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>He thought about a hundred thousand dollars would be as little as we could afford to begin work with.  In my desperate frame of mind I said: "Well, I'll take care of that.  I'll arrange it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The following morning I saw President Roosevelt, who said that he was in sympathy with what I was trying to do and would do all in his power to help, but that he could not see his way clear to release Heney and Burns.  Perhaps, he said, something could be done later.</P>
194.sgm:<P>With these half-satisfying assurances I returned to San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When I had so rashly promised to raise a hundred thousand dollars I had in mind James D. Phelan and Rudolph Spreckels.  I came back, revolving all the way across the continent the probabilities of being able to get such a sum from them for this purpose.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Immediately upon my return I had a visitor who gave me the first ray of hope that had shone for me since the election.  This visitor was Langdon, the newly elected district attorney.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The Ruef ticket had been made up rather loosely, with a number of men more or less connected with labor as supervisors, and Langdon for district attorney.  Langdon up to that time had been superintendent of schools.</P>
194.sgm:<P>His opponent was Henry Brandenstein, one of the strongent figures, from our point of view, in San Francisco.  He had rendered excellent service as a supervisor, and as chairman of the finance committee, and had stood for all the reform measures we were interested in.  Under the old system of voting, I think undoubtedly he would have defeated Langdon.  But, for the first time, in this election voting machines were used, and no one understood them very well.  In order to scratch a ticket one had to understand these machines better than most voters could understand them, so, rather than not vote for Schmitz, the voter banged one key and voted the whole ticket in.  This was the reason for Langdon's election.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I had not thought much about Langdon, assuming, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Shortly after I returned from Washington, however, I called upon him at his office.  We talked for a moment or two, and he said:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Mr. Older, I think perhaps you misunderstand me because of my affiliations in the election.  I want you to know that I am the district attorney of San Francisco.  My duty is to enforce the law."  He picked up a copy of the penal code that lay on his desk and, holding it in his hand and looking me in the eye, he said: "My job is to enforce all of the laws in that book.  I mean to prosecute any man, whoever he may be, who breaks one of those laws.  Any man.  No matter what happens.  Do you understand me?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said that I understood and that I congratulated him.  From that moment I knew that at heart Langdon was with us.  Ruef soon learned that he was.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Meantime I set to work to get the hundred thousand dollars that I had promised to finance the prosecution of Ruef and Schmitz.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>LINING UP FOR THE FIGHT</P>
194.sgm:<P>WHEN I said I thought I could raise a hundred thousand dollars I had in mind James D. Phelan and Rudolph Spreckels.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Phelan, as I have said, was a rich man.  He had always been wealthy, had been brought up in an atmosphere of wealth, as his people had money.  He had toward the city somewhat the attitude of a rich man toward a great business in which he is interested; his life had always been identified with that of San Francisco, he loved the city, and he wished to see it a clean and beautiful place, efficiently administered.  I knew that he was eager to see the grafters cleaned out of the city government, and thought that he would contribute toward that end.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Rudolph Spreckels also had come of a wealthy family, but he had quarreled with his father when he was 17 years old.  The quarrel was caused by Rudolph's standing by his brother, Gus, when their father had quarreled with Gus and cast him out.  Rudolph said to his father: "Even though this causes a break between us, I am going to stand with Gus.  I think Gus is right.  Father, I am always going to stand for the right all my life."</P>
194.sgm:<P>His father ordered him out of the house, and he went.  From that time on, with scarcely any one to help him, Rudolph made his own way and accumulated a fortune by his own efforts.  His father, in his old age, relented, forgave him, and left him a big part of his estate.  But Rudolph Spreckels was a big man without his father.</P>
194.sgm:<P>His actual contact with political affairs had been very slight and, such as it was, it had grown out of his efforts to improve the Sutter street car line, some time prior to my trip to Washington.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The Sutter street line was an old, ramshackle cable system, owned by the United Railroads.  It not only ran out Sutter street, passing some of Rudolph Spreckels' property there, but it turned up Polk and rounded on to Pacific avenue, where it passed his residence.  The line was so dilapidated that the United Railroads was considering changing it into an overhead trolley system.</P>
194.sgm:<P>To this, naturally, Rudolph Spreckels was opposed.  He thought that if a change was to be made, the new system should be the most modern that any city had.  He had in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>In order to force the installation of this system, he formed an organization of property owners and made a very intelligent campaign in favor of the underground conduits.  But Patrick Calhoun, president of the United Railroads, considered the improvement too expensive.  He said that it was impossible because of the grades.  Spreckels met all his objections intelligently, offering himself to pay for any work required on the grades in order to make the system practical.  But Calhoun refused to listen, or to have anything to do with the conduit system.  He insisted on the overhead trolley, which cost less.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Then Spreckels conceived the idea of organizing a separate streecar company, obtaining franchises on certain streets without car lines, and building up a system with the underground conduit in use, which would compete with the United Railroads and by superior service and quality force the United Railroads to abandon the hideous cheaper system and install the underground conduit.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This attempt gave Rudolph Spreckels his first practical experience of politics.  He organized the company, with his father and, I think, James D. Phelan.  Rudolph and his father called on Mayor Schmitz in regard to the proposed franchises.  Of course, Schmitz would not listen to any such proposition.  He was definitely tied up with the Calhoun interests and the United Railroads, although at this time Calhoun had not yet bribed him to grant the overhead trolley franchise.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Rudolph Spreckels retired from this attempt with a considerably increased knowledge of underground conditions in San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I knew this, and I felt that his public spirit had been awakened to such an extent that he would, perhaps, go further and back a big fight against graft in San Francisco.  I did not have Calhoun in mind, because at that time I did not know that he had done anything unlawful.  However, I felt that Spreckels was a man upon whom I could call for help.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I first visited Phelan and told him what I had done.  I informed him that I had seen Heney and Burns and Roosevelt, and I felt that if I could raise a hundred thousand dollars Heney and Burns could be gotten out here to investigate the graft and punish those guilty of it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Phelan was very much in favor of the attempt, and said he would help to raise the money.  Then I called on Rudolph Spreckels and told him how matters stood.  He was most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Later, when the fight was on, it was charged that Spreckels' motive for going into it was his antagonism to the United Railroads, because he had organized a rival company.  This was wholly untrue.  He had organized a railway company for the reasons I have stated, but it had nothing to do with his going into the graft prosecution, because at that time none of us knew anything that Calhoun had done unlawfully.  As a matter of fact, at that time--December, 1905--Calhoun had not yet bribed the supervisors.  That occurred later.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Assured of Phelan's and Spreckels' support, I got into communication again with Heney, and in the following February he came out to San Francisco.  I had him meet Phelan and Spreckels at luncheon at the University Club, and there we had a preliminary talk.  I had nothing definite to offer as an entering wedge beyond the fragments of evidence in the French restaurant case, but we were all confident that if this were followed up it would lead to deeper disclosures, perhaps in the end even to Herrin himself.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Heney said that he had to go on with his government work for the present, but as soon as there was a lull in it he would make the investigations and the prosecutions, if there were any to be made.  We parted with this understanding, and three weeks later came the great fire.</P>
194.sgm:<P>San Francisco was destroyed.  I was in the midst of the cataclysm, working, as all men did in those feverish days and nights, first to save what I might of the Bulletin, and later to help others who needed help.  But my mind was so filled with one idea that even in the midst of fire and smoke and heaps of ruins, I thought of our plans to get Ruef and Schmitz, and mourned the delay I feared the fire had caused.  I worked frantically, feeling that this overwhelming disaster must be met and handled, so that we could go on with our hunt of the grafters.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The Bulletin staff was gathered in Oakland, and we managed to get out the paper, printing it in the plant of the Oakland Herald.  Many of our files had been destroyed, our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>As soon as possible we returned to San Francisco and found temporary quarters on the roof of the Merchants' ice house, at the northern end of Sansome street, at the foot of the Telegraph Hill cliffs.  Here we built temporary editorial and linotype rooms on the roof.  The pressroom was in a shack on the ground below.  With these makeshift expedients we resumed publication in the city.  All around us San Fracisco was a heap of blackened ruins.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Walking on Fillmore street one day, I met Heney, who had come out on a flying visit.  We shook hands and I said: "I'd like to have a talk with you."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Where can we talk?" he said.  I took him into a tent on Fillmore street, and we each got a cracker box, turned it on end and sat down.  "How about the graft prosecution?" I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'm ready to go ahead," he replied, "any time you people are.  Let's go down and see Spreckels."</P>
194.sgm:<P>We started to make our way through the mass of wreckage in search of Spreckels.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>GETTING UNDER WAY</P>
194.sgm:<P>RUDOLPH SPRECKELS had rigged up a little temporary office, roughly built of boards, in the ruins of his bank on Sansome street.  Heney and I found him there, surrounded by miles of burned brick and tangled steel girders.  At once we plunged into discussion of our plans.  It had already been agreed that we should borrow Burns from the United States secret service.  Spreckels undertook to raise the necessary money to finance the investigations.  He had already secured thirty or forty thousand dollars in the fund.  Spreckels said:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Now that we have made terms about Burns, what is your fee to be, Heney?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Heney said: "Well, I was born in San Francisco and raised here.  I have always felt that it was my city.  I have a little money, enough so that I am not going to be in need of money very soon, and I am willing to put my time and services against your money.  I'll do it for nothing."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"That's very fine of you," Spreckels answered.  "But it's more than we should ask."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Heney looked out at the ruins of the city and said: "No, I think I ought to do it, for San Francisco.  It's my town.</P>
194.sgm:<P>From that day to this Heney never received one cent for his work in the graft prosecution.  Even when he was appointed deputy district attorney in order to operate in the courts, he paid the salary of $250 a month to the man that was displaced in order to allow him to come into the office.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We ended the interview with Heney's promise to bring Burns here and begin definite work as soon as possible.  I returned to the office on the roof of the ice plant, a happy man.  After five years of hard work on the trail of Ruef and Schmitz I felt that at last the real fight was beginning.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Shortly afterward, Heney and Burns arrived here, ready for business.  They established themselves in what was later known as "The Red House" on Franklin street between Post and Geary.  Heney took Charles W. Cobb, a brilliant San Jose lawyer, into partnership with him, and also engaged the services of Joseph J. Dwyer.  Burns had brought with him a small number of assistant detectives, and later added others to this nucleus of a strong detective force.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The first move had to be the appointment of Heney as deputy district attorney.  At that time the giving of such an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Before this had become public I made a move in the direction of getting rid of what I considered a crooked grand jury.  I told Judge Graham that I was associated with a group of men who meant business in their fight on the grafters.  I went into the matter so forcefully that the Judge finally consented to dismiss the grand jury.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Two days later I got information of a definite case of bribing Ruef.  Four prize fight promoters had raised $20,000 and it was given by an emissary to Ruef for prize fight permits.  This was the first definite information that we had received.  Heney, however, had meanwhile been working on the French restaurant story, and had decided that he could make a case out of it.  This was encouraging.  But of all the big briberies that we suspected, there was as yet not a shred of evidence.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When Heney's appointment as deputy district attorney became public, however, things began to happen.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was living in San Rafael at the time.  Late one night, after I had gone to bed, I was called to the long distance telephone.  Rudolph Spreckels was speaking from San Mateo.  He said: "Ruef has removed Langdon and appointed himself."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What!"  I said.  This was incredible.  However, Spreckels insisted that it was true.  At the alarm, the acting mayor, doubtless at Ruef's command, had removed Langdon from his place as district attorney, and put Ruef himself into it.  The brazen effrontery of this staggered us.  Immediately, however, we perceived the danger in which we stood.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Graham had discharged the old grand jury, and we were insisting upon the drawing of a new one.  With Ruef as district attorney, our chance of getting a friendly grand jury was removed from the realm of the possible into that of the fantastic.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I took the first boat for the city in the morning, in a desperate frame of mind.  The morning papers carried the story of Ruef's appointment.  Crossing the bay on the deck of the ferryboat, I made up my mind that there was only one thing to do.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At 2 o'clock Judge Graham was to decide whether he would recognize Ruef or Langdon as district attorney.  By 11 o'clock that morning I had 20,000 extras on the streets stating the facts and calling on all good citizens to rally to the synagogue on the corner of California and Webster streets, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Long before 2 o'clock thousands of people were congregated around the synagogue.  The streets were jammed with them, traffic was at a standstill.  Indignation was running high against Ruef and Schmitz.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At that time even our so called "best people" were with us in the fight.  On a bit of lawn, outside the windows of Judge Graham's chambers, a large group of influential persons were gathered, silently glaring through the windows, just steadily glaring, without a sound, as though to say, "Don't you dare!"  Some of these were the people who later when we touched Calhoun fought us so desperately, but at that time they were with us, and that bit of lawn looked like a first night at the opera.</P>
194.sgm:<P>On the street sides of the synagogue there was pandemonium.  The crowds surged this way and that, cheering, hooting and yelling, dangerous, in a mood for anything.  Ruef not only controlled the city government, but the sheriff as well, and the sheriff's deputies were there in full force, but they could not control the crowd.  They could only center upon certain men, throwing us about, handling me as roughly as they dared.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Heney and Langdon appeared on the steps and were wildly cheered.  Ruef came out and was roughly handled by the mob.  He bravely held his ground, protecting himself as best he could, never losing his nerve or showing fear for an instant, though he was in danger of his life.  He was rescued by the deputies, and the roars of the crowd subsided into mutterings.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Then Graham arrived.  He passed through the black mass of people, heard their mutterings and disappeared into the courtrooms.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>THE CARMEN'S STRIKE</P>
194.sgm:<P>THAT day was long known in San Francisco as Black Friday, the day when, in the silence of the courtroom, besieged by the aroused crowds outside, Judge Graham recognized Langdon as district attorney of San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Whatever the thoughts of any man present in that courtroom, they were overshadowed by the knowledge of the mob outside, waiting to see that Ruef was dethroned, that Langdon was recognized.  The days of the Vigilantes, of riots and lynchings, were not so long past that any one could fail to recall them, and the temper of the crowd around the synagogue was unmistakable.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Every one in the courtroom knew the temper of that crowd.  Excitement was at fever heat.  The Bulletin had two men there throughall the proceedings, trained newspaper reporters, and neither of them telephoned a line to the paper.  They decided that the situation was too big, too overwhelming, to be reported at all.  They must have felt that they were at the center of the universe, that all the people in the world had gathered, that every one knew what was happening.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After Judge Graham recognized Langdon there came the drawing of the grand jury.  Old fashioned methods were, of course, employed.  The names in the box had been prepared for the drawing, the bits of paper bearing the chosen names being folded together, so that the searching had of the clerk could feel a thick bunch and draw from that.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Knowing this, I had managed to force my way into the courtroom, in spit of the efforts of a big fat push bailiff, who tried to throw me out.  When the drawing of names was about to begin I rushed up to the judge's bench and loudly demanded that the names be emptied out of the box and separated.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was done.  The prepared bunches of papers were broken up and scattered through the others.  Then the Oliver grand jury was drawn.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was a triumph for us, for with Langdon as district attorney, and an honest grand jury, we had in hand all the weapons we needed.  All that was necessary was to furnish legal evidence of the crimes that we knew had been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>After I had furnished Heney with the evidence of the bribery of Ruef in the matter of the prizefight permits, there was a long interval of searching and investigation without results.  Spreckels was somewhat discouraged.  At length, however, the evidence secured by Burns was presented to the Oliver grand jury, and early in the fall of 1906 Schmitz and Ruef were both indicted for extortion in the French restaurant cases.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We all felt these cases to be a side issue.  We had already suspected something in regard to the bribery of the supervisors for the overhead trolley franchise, and our principal efforts were spent in trying to get at those facts.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Up to this time there is no question that public opinion was with us.  Public opinion was with us until we began to touch the big fellows.  We could have gone on, uncovering petty graft, saloon graft, tenderloin graft, convicting and punishing men even to the extent of exposing the police department, and the city, that is, the powerful men of the city, would have been with us.  But the moment the big men were in danger their support left us overnight.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Black Friday had alarmed Calhoun.  The indictments of Ruef and Schmitz were final danger signals to him.  He was a very brilliant man, clever, resourceful, daring, of a temper that stopped at nothing.  He knew what we did not know at that time.  He knew that he had paid $200,000 to Abraham Ruef through his attorney, Tirey L. Ford, for the purpose of bribing the supervisors to give the United Railroads the overhead trolley franchise.  He knew, when Heney was appointed and upheld by Judge Graham, that he stood in danger of being exposed.  Sooner or later, the trail we were following would lead to him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>His first move was characteristically clever and unscrupulous.  He precipitated the streetcar strike.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Some time previous to Heney opening headquarters here in commencing operations against the grafters, the United Railroads carmen had made a demand for an increase in pay.  The United Railroads prevailed upon them to submit their grievances to arbitrators.  Probably suspecting that Heney in his investigation might uncover the United Railroads bribery, Calhoun offered to make Francis J. Heney one of the arbitrators.  Possibly Heney might have accepted the position.  He had it under consideration when Burns came excitedly into his office and told him not to accept it, because he had just learned through an employe of the mint that Calhoun had transmitted $200,000 through the mint in this city to Tirey L. Ford to be used to secure the overhead trolley <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>There was a long investigation made of the claims of the carmen for more pay, a lot of testimony was taken and it occupied some time before the matter was adjusted.  The men were not satisfied with the terms that the United Railroads was willing to make.  Calhoun seized upon the situation to bring on a strike among the carmen.  The deal was made in Mayor Schmitz' house, with Bowling, secretary-treasurer of the carmen's union, acting with Calhoun and Schmitz.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Cornelius, the president of the Carmen's Union; Michael Casey, Andrew Furuseth and other labor men were anxious to prevent the carmen from striking, fearing they would lose and hoping that Heney's investigation would lead to the discovery of the bribery of the supervisors by Calhoun.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In this situation, Cornelius stood against the strike and Bowling for it.  Our plan was to try to bring about a secret ballot, reasoning that if the men voted secretly they would vote against the strike.  Bowling was advocating an open ballot, counting on the men's fear to vote openly against the strike.  Bowling won out.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We so nearly succeeded that I still believe that if we had been able to get a secret ballot in the meeting which declared the strike, we would have averted it.  But Bowling's influence and strategy were too much for us.  He succeeded in putting the question to a viva voce vote.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The question of striking was trembling in the balance.  But many men were not brave enough to rise and openly vote "No" against a strike for higher wages.  Bowling, working with Calhoun and Schmitz, had so inflamed certain elements in the union that others did not dare openly to stand against them.  The men rose, one by one, and voted "Yes."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Immediately the streetcars were tied up.  This second calamity, falling upon the disaster of the fire, halting the city's attempt at rebuilding, infuriated the businessmen and property owners of San Francisco.  Calhoun knew the city; he knew what would influence the powerful men of the city.  He knew that San Francisco was in ruins and that the businessmen above all things wanted the street cars to run, otherwise they would be utterly ruined.</P>
194.sgm:<P>With the entire approval of the businessmen of San Francisco, he imported professional gangs of strike breakers, headed by Farley, and attempted to run the cars.  The strikers attacked these strike breakers viciously.  Rioting broke out on the streets, men were beaten, crippled, killed.  The city was in a turmoil.  In the midst of it, in the most picturesque way, Calhoun rode up and down Market street <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"There's a man who isn't afraid of anything!  He's for San Francisco and the rebuilding of San Francisco.  He'll break this strike and save us, if any man can," they said on every hand.  Calhoun could not have made a better move than to secretly force this strike, and then boldly and openly to break it, by force.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was the one brilliant move by which he could have endeared himself to the powerful people of San Francisco, who hated labor unions anyway, and particularly at this time, when the hard work of rehabilitation and desperate task of keeping business going depended on the street cars moving.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While the strike was in progress the men were receiving $5 a week each in benefits, and one week the money did not come, $5000 for a thousand men.  The international president, McMahon, was away from his home office and had failed to send it.  The labor men who had been with me in the fight to prevent the strike came to me and said: "If we don't have $5000 by 1 o'clock today, the strike will be broken.  If the men don't get their $5 apiece at 1 o'clock they'll give in and go back to work, and all their efforts and suffering will come to nothing."</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVIII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>LEADING UP TO CALHOUN</P>
194.sgm:<P>WHILE I had exerted every effort of which I was cacapable, in trying to prevent the calling of the street-car strike, still I did not want to see the strike lost now and the men who had already been led into so much suffering forced to lose their chance of getting something out of it all.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Since it was necessary to have the $5000 by 1 o'clock that afternoon, if these men were to get their strike benefits and be held in line, I determined to do my utmost to provide the five thousand.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I found two friends who were willing to lend me $2500 each.  I had the money changed into $5 gold pieces, put it in a sack and sent it out to the headquarters of the Carmen's Union.  Bowling, the traitor secretary-treasurer who had planned the strike with Calhoun, was there.  The sack was given to him and he was told to distribute the money to the men.  He was obliged to do so, but he kept the sack and carried it to Calhoun as evidence that I had saved the men from losing the strike at that time.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Shortly afterward Calhoun, by using a force of strike-breakers, succeeded in crushing the strike he had begun, and the men went back to work, beaten.  Calhoun was the hero of the day.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In the meantime, however, we had struck a trail that was leading us hot on his track.  We were getting closer to him every day.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While we were in the midst of our investigations, Schmitz suddenly left for Europe.  The day after he left it was announced in the newspapers that he had dismissed the president of the Board of Works, Frank Maestretti.  The news came as a thunderbolt.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Could it be possible that Ruef and Schmitz had dared to dismiss Frank Maestretti, a man who, we felt convinced, was in on all the city graft, or at least knew of it?</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was very much excited and sent for Maestretti and Golden M. Roy.  Roy I knew to be a close friend of Maestretti.  They were partners in Pavilion Skating Rink.  They came to my office and I talked with them about the removal of Maestretti.  They still hoped that he would be reinstated by wire from Schmitz.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "Well, if he is not, perhaps you will be willing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>The following day I called on them in their office at Pavilion Rink.  I told them that I represented powerful interests in San Francisco who were going to get the facts of the graft, and that I thought they would do well to get in on the ground floor with me.  They admitted that they could tell me some very interesting things, but they put me off, saying that they would see me again.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Maestretti followed me out of the office and warned me against Roy, saying that he was a Ruef man and could not be trusted.  When I reported this to Burns he very cleverly analyzed it as meaning that Maestretti wanted the whole thing to himself and wanted Roy shut out.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I carried to Rudolph Spreckels the news of the possibilities that I thought lay in Roy and Maestretti, and Spreckels said: "Can you trust them?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "Well, unfortunately, Rudolph, the crimes that were committed here were not known to respectable people like Bishop Nichols or our leading prelates.  If we are going to get anywhere, we've got to get our information from crooks."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burns had many meetings with Maestretti, and he soon discovered that Roy was the man who knew it all, and that unless we could get Roy we could get nowhere.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Work on Roy," he said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In my eagerness to get information from Roy my mind went back to the days before the fire.  At that time Roy owned a jewelry store on Kearny street near the Bulletin office.  A friend of his called on me and said that Schmitz had offered Roy a position as police commissioner.  Having a wife and family whom he dearly loved, Roy did not want to take the place if I were going to attack him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "Well, tell him to come up and see me."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy called and I told him that if they offered him this position, they expected him to take their program, and that if he took their program it would be a crooked program, and therefore it would come under my criticism.  It was impossible, in my judgment, that they would appoint him with any other idea than that he would stand in with their graft.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He insisted that he could be honest, even though a Schmitz police commissioner.  But I remained unconvinced, and in the end he did not accept the position.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Later, in the Schmitz campaign, Roy organized what he called the "Schmitz Business Men's League," and I published an article that was really gentle, coming from me at that time, in which I reproved Roy for having anything to do with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I learned that this criticism worried him tremendously, and this gave me an idea.  I had a very violent personal attack written on Roy.  It was a page article, embellished with pictures.  I raked up everything in Roy's activities that could place him in a discreditable light before the community.  Then I had a proof page of this article printed secretly in the Bulletin office, and when it was ready I laid it face down on my desk and sent for Roy.  Burns was waiting in an adjoining room.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy came into my office.  He said: "Well, what can I do for you, Mr. Older?" in what I thought was a patronizing tone.  I was very much excited.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You can't do anything for me," I said, "but I'm going to put you in the penitentiary."  I picked up the page and handed it to him to read.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He began to read it, turned pale, and reeled on his feet.  "Read it all," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'm reading it all."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He finished, laid it down and said: "What do you want me to do?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I want you to tell the truth."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"All right," he said.  "I'm willing to tell you the truth--everything."  I pressed a button and Burns came in.  I turned Roy over to Burns and left the room.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In a little while Burns called me and said: "Roy wants to see his friends before he talks."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "I don't think we ought to let him see his friends.  It's a friend, it isn't friends.  It's Ruef he wants to see."  Roy sat there without saying a word.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No," Burns said, "I think it best to let him see his friends."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said nothing more, and after a moment Roy got up and walked out.  He was shadowed, of course.  He went directly to his home, where his wife and children were, and stayed there, sending no messages and telephoning nobody till midnight.  Then he telephoned Burns and asked to see him.  When they met he told Burns much that he knew about the Ruef briberies, and this interview led directly to the confessions of the eighteen supervisors who had taken money in the overhead trolley franchise deal.  We had reached Calhoun at last.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIX</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>CALHOUN IS THE HERO OF THE CITY</P>
194.sgm:<P>ALL this time the street car strike was going on, with almost daily violence and bloodshed, and Calhoun was riding up and down Market street, to the admiration of all who saw him.  His ruthlessness in dealing with the strikers and his terrific efforts to quell the storm he had raised were having exactly the effect he had desired when he plotted to cause the strike.  He was daily becoming more of a hero to the big men of San Francisco who controlled public opinion.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Meantime it became known to Ruef that Roy had come over to our side, and in order to frighten him into silence Ruef had introduced into the Board of Supervisors an ordinance making it illegal for any girl under eighteen years of age to visit a skating rink without her mother.  If this became a law, Roy and Maestretti's business, Dreamland Rink, was doomed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy, far from being intimidated, responded to this threat with a brilliant idea.  He suggested to us that by means of this proposed ordinance we could trap the supervisors.  His plan was to bribe them to kill the ordinance, have them caught taking the money, and terrorize them into confessing the overhead trolley briberies.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We rehearsed for the plan in Roy's office at Pavilion Rink.  There was another room next to his office, in which we planned to hide and watch the bribery.  Burns borrowed a gimlet from a nearby grocery store, and we bored three holes through the door, so that three people could look into Roy's office.  When this was done, Burns and I stood on the other side of the door and looked through the holes, while Roy rehearsed the coming scene.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy sat at his table with imaginary bills in his hand, and the chairs placed in such a position that we could see him.  Then, leaning toward the empty chair in which the unsuspecting supervisor was to be placed, Roy began, pretending that Supervisor Tom Lonergan was present.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Tom, I want that skating rink bill killed.  If it goes through--"</P>
194.sgm:<P>We would interrupt.  "A little louder, Roy--" "Move over to the right.  Now go ahead."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Tom, I want that skating rink bill killed.  I'm willing to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>The rehearsal was perfect.  It was beyond my imagination to conceive of anything like that being fulfilled, and I said to Roy, "It's too much of a melodrama for me.  I can't believe it's possible that anything like this will ever happen."  Roy replied, "Don't worry.  It will happen exactly as we have planned it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>And it did.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Two days later Supervisor Tom Lonergan came into the office, while Burns and two other witnesses stood behind the door.  He took the chair that had been placed in position, listened to Roy's talk pitched in a key that the witnesses could overhear, took the money and pocketed it.  After him came two others, one at a time, I have forgotten which two they were.  We were elated and were arranging to trap the others speedily, when the Chronicle got a tip that something was happening, and ran a story which scared them all.</P>
194.sgm:<P>So we worked on the three, and finding that we had the goods on them, they confessed to everything, including the overhead trolley deal.  And their confessions involved the others, and the others got scared and got in line.  The whole eighteen made their confessions as quickly as they possibly could, one after the other hurrying into safety, with the promise given them by Heney and Burns and Langdon that they would not be prosecuted if they testified.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We had in our hands all the evidence that I had been combing the town for, during many years.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burns later got the whole credit for obtaining these confessions, but the trap which caught them was entirely Roy's idea, planned by Roy and carried through by Roy.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While these confessions were being taken down, Ruef had hidden himself away in a roadhouse at Trocadero.  He was out on bail, under indictment in the French restaurant case.  Burns was searching for him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He finally found him, brought him back into custody, and put him in the Little St. Francis Hotel, a temporary structure put up after the fire in Union Square.  Here Ruef learned for the first time of the supervisors' confessions, and Burns believed that he could be induced to make one himself.  But Burns said that Heney was so exalted over his success with the supervisors that he would not listen to any confession from Ruef.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Let the blankety-blank go over the bay!  We won't allow him to confess and have immunity.  We've given the eighteen supervisors immunity, and we'll make him sweat!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burns shook his head, and said to me, "That's the way it always is when you haven't got complete control.  You see, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Sure enough, in less than two weeks Burns was hard at work trying to get a confession from Ruef.</P>
194.sgm:<P>By connecting up with Rabbi Kaplan and Rabbi Nieto, he managed to secure a confession from Ruef on the overhead trolley bribery, on some understanding with Ruef that he was not to be prosecuted at all, not even in the French restaurant case, which was then pending.  Burns told me little, almost nothing, about the details of his arrangement with Ruef.  It was not until much later that I learned the facts.  At that time I knew only that Burns was well along toward pulling Ruef through.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One day Burns came to me and asked me to go with him to Judge Lawlor and try to convince Lawlor that if Ruef was a good witness in all the big bribery cases he should be allowed to go free in the French restaurant case.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We found Lawlor in his room at the Family Club.  Burns presented the case to him.  Lawlor flatly refused to have anything to do with any such program.  He said that the city would not stand for Ruef's not going to the penitentiary, that Ruef must be put in stripes.  Anything less than that would mean the failure of the graft prosecution.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"We've already given immunity to eighteen supervisors," said Lawlor.  "Now to give full immunity to Ruef would mean our ruin.  This must be done: Let him be a witness in all the big bribery cases.  Let the French restaurant case be pending the while, and then when he has made a good witness, let him come into court and plead guilty on the French restaurant case, let the district attorney state to the judge that Ruef has been a good witness for the state and ask leniency for him, and then the judge will let him off with a year.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"But one year at least he must serve in the penitentiary, to save our reputations."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I agreed with Lawlor, and Burns went away much disappointed.  Later, there came the well known midnight meeting between the rabbis and Heney, and the obtaining of such concessions as the judges would make, sufficient, apparently, to satisfy Ruef.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ruef then appeared before the grand jury, and gave the evidence necessary for the indictments of himself, Schmitz, John Martin, De Sabla, Frank Drum, and Patrick Calhoun, and some others, on the big bribery charges.  That day the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>After he was indicted, however, he crushed the strike.  The men went back to work, the streetcars were running again, and Calhoun had become a great, public-spirited figure in men's eyes.  He loomed as the savior of the city, once ruined by fire and threatened again by labor-unionism.  His indictment made no dent at all upon his popularity.  The prominent men of San Francisco stood before him and said: "Let's see you convict him!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"But don't you want him convicted if he is guilty?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"NO!" one of them said.  "If I were on the jury I'd vote to acquit him if he were guilty as hell!  He's the man that saved San Francisco!"</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XX</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>"KEEP AWAY FROM THE BEACH"</P>
194.sgm:<P>WHEN the streetcar strike had successfully been engineered and broken, Bowling, the secretary-treasurer of the Carmen's Union, was placed on the payroll of the United Railroads.  However, after Calhoun had been indicted, Bowling became dissatisfied with the amount of money he was getting.  He must have felt that he had been unfairly treated by Calhoun, or, perhaps, he endeavored to get more than Calhoun was willing to pay.  At any rate, he finally came to Burns and offered, for $10,000, to give us the evidence that Calhoun, Schmitz and he had planned and caused the streetcar strike.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burns, being employed by the District Attorney, was not in a position to negotiate with him directly, and sent him to me.  He sketched roughly this story of the making and breaking of the carmen's strike, and offered to put himself on record, to make an affidavit to it, for $10,000.  Burns got him to finally agree to $6000.  I consented to this, and arranged to meet him the following day.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Next day I met Mr. Bowling in an office in the Spreckels Building, with a stenographer.  I had arranged for the $6000.  Bowling had with him a man who had participated with him in the deal with Calhoun.  The stenographer was ready, waiting.  I said, "Go ahead.  Everything is arranged.  Tell your story."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said, "Well, we met at Calhoun's house."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said, "Go on.  Who was present?  Calhoun?  Schmitz?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>There was a long silence.  He turned white.  Finally he stammered that he couldn't go on.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Why?  Don't you want the money?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes," he said.  Then he said, desperately, "But they--they'll kill me!"  He meant the carmen he had betrayed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said, "All right.  Good day."  Bowling left the room.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burns bitterly reproached me for this action later.  He said I should have coaxed him along, given him a little money, played him from day to day until he was ready to talk.  But I was not experienced in such matters.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Next morning there appeared in one of the morning papers a story, backed by an affidavit by Bowling, charging me with attempting to bribe him with a sum of money to tell a lie against Calhoun.  Then he proceeded to tell the story of the sack of money I had taken to union headquarters to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I had in fact first attempted to prevent the strike that Calhoun had ordered, and then I had helped to hold the men steady by paying their benefit money, which was afterward repaid to me, in the hope that if they held together they could save something from the ruin in which Calhoun had involved them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>But in the eyes of the powerful people of the city I was branded as a dangerous agitator, plotting against the city's peace, while Calhoun was surrounded by a halo.  I had no recourse except to continue as best I could to help in uncovering the truth in the courts.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Tirey L. Ford had been indicted with Calhoun.  He was chief counsel for the United Railroads and was the man who had passed the $200,000 from Calhoun to Ruef for bribing the supervisors.  He was placed on the calendar for trial before Calhoun, in the hope that if he were convicted he might come through with some confession involving Calhoun, in return for some leniency in his sentence.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While these cases were pending, and San Francisco people in general were absorbed with their own personal affairs, the city became filled with armed detectives, employed either by Burns or by Calhoun.  To one who knew the inside facts, the very air of the streets became tense.  Every few feet one met a man who was working for one side or the other, and many men of prominence were constantly shadowed by both sides, and even the men who were following them were also followed and watched.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Shortly after Calhoun's indictment he sent a mutual friend to see me to ask me to name my price to quit the fight.  I replied, "Tell Mr. Calhoun that I have no price, that nothing will stop me until he has been convicted and sent to the penitentiary."</P>
194.sgm:<P>In my relentless pursuit of him I stopped at nothing.  I learned of a suit that a maiden sister had brought against him for having fleeced her out of $60,000.  Calhoun had settled the case quickly when he found that Heney was working out here, but there was a court record in Atlanta, Georgia, and I went back to Atlanta personally to get it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>On this trip I spent my own money, $700, saved out of my salary.  I had a transcript made of the case and certified to by the county clerk in Atlanta, and when the county clerk handed it to me and I paid his fee, he said:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I don't know what you are going to do with this, but I imagine that you are going to take it to San Francisco to use <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>From the time I returned to San Francisco I was never without a shadow.  I never left my office that one or two men did not follow me to my hotel, which was the Fairmont.  All sorts of traps were set to catch me.  Women would call me upon the telephone and tell me that if I would come to such and such a room, in such and such an apartment house, I could get some very valuable information.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I avoided all these traps.  The stress was very great and I was living under great excitement and worry.  In the midst of this Mrs. Older and I were ostracised by many who had formerly been our friends.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After the indictment of Calhoun--who was a descendant of Patrick Henry, a Southern gentleman with a great deal of social prestige in the East, and necessarily here as well, pampered in our best clubs, entertained by our "best people," a man, moreover, who had "saved" San Francisco's business interests when they were endangered by the car strike--local sentiment toward the graft prosecution changed overnight.</P>
194.sgm:<P>People who had known me quite intimately stopped speaking to me.  Labor fell away from us because Eugene E. Schmitz was labor's mayor and they did not like to see him discredited by a group of men whom they considered to be hostile to labor.  The wealthy people fell away from us because we were attacking one of their own class, Calhoun.  So we were left between the two.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Up to this time I had been a fairly popular member of the Bohemian Club and used to greatly enjoy going there; but after we touched Calhoun there was hardly any one in the club who would speak to me.  The ostracism became so acute that I finally resigned.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Mrs. Older and I had known and liked quite a few members of what is known as "society" in San Francisco, and they, of course, dropped us.  One of the women called on Mrs. Older and told her that many of her friends liked her very much and would like to continue their friendship, but that they could not stand for the attitude of her husband.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Mrs. Older replied that she did not care for their friendship in that case; that she was perfectly willing to be ostracised with me; that she believed me to be right, and that was the only thing to be considered.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In the stress and strain of those days Mrs. Older and I tried to escape from it all every evening by going to the beach, where we had a tiny car-house attached to a restaurant managed by Mrs. Gunn.  It was our one pleasure, just about <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>One evening, as I came from the office and crossed the sidewalk to the machine where Mrs. Older was waiting, a very good friend of mine, who had deep connections in the underworld, passed by me, and said warningly: "Keep away from the beach."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He did not stop to be questioned, but went quickly past me, as though he had not spoken to me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The following letter has been received from Mr. John S. Irby, surveyor of customs, in the federal service here:</P>
194.sgm:<P>Mr. Fremont Older, Editor The Call--Dear Mr. Older: If your "My Own Story," which I am reading with avid interest as the most informing narration of my experience, is to be published in book form, may I not invite your attention to an error.  You stated that Patrick Calhoun is related to Patrick Henry, the orator and patriot of our revolution, one of the early governors of Virginia.  I am sure it was a lapsus calami.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While a man is not responsible for his relatives, only his friends, as a Virginian I am loath to allow Patrick Henry's memory to be thus impugned.  Patrick Calhoun is related to John C. Calhoun, the South Carolina senator who died in 1850, known as "the great nullifier" because of his advocacy of the nullification act.</P>
194.sgm:<P>John C. Calhoun's father was named Patrick Calhoun.  Thus the man who figures so prominently in your histories is named for the father of the South Carolina Senator.  Very truly yours.</P>
194.sgm:<P>JOHN S. IRBY.</P>
194.sgm:<P>San Francisco, Nov. 8, 1918.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Patrick Calhoun often made the statement that he was related to Patrick Henry, and I based the statement in my story on Calhoun's assertion.</P>
194.sgm:<P>FREMONT OLDER.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXI</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>CALHOUN GROWS DESPERATE</P>
194.sgm:<P>THIS warning, "Keep away from the beach," I knew to be important.  The man who had given it to me was my friend, and a man who was not given to false alarms.</P>
194.sgm:<P>But I was very angry at the thought of giving up my one pleasure, that daily swim in the surf with Mrs. Older and our quiet little dinner later in Mrs. Gunn's small restaurant.  I determined that I would continue to have it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>So I secure two plain clothes men from the police department and went to the beach as usual, leaving the two officers sitting in the machine on the beach, watching.  Nothing happened.  Still I knew that the warning was not without significance, and so each day I took the plain clothes men with me, and never while we were at the beach allowed them to get out of sight.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Later I learned that Calhoun's men had employed a half-breed Mexican gunfighter to come from Arizona to San Francisco to "get" me.  The day before my friend warned me, this Mexican was standing opposite the Bulletin office in front of the Phelan building, which was then in course of construction, when another well known gun fighter, who knew him very well, came along.  He asked: "What are you doing here?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>The Mexican answered: "I'm waiting to see Older when he comes down."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What's the idea?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, I am supposed to get him.  They want me to go up into the Phelan building and shoot him through his window in the Bulletin office.  They told me the noise of the steam riveters would sound so much like a rifle shot that it wouldn't be distinguished, but I'm leary of that.  If it didn't, I wouldn't have any chance to get away.  So I'm going out to get him at the beach, where he dines every night with his wife."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What are you staying here for, then?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, I don't know him.  I am waiting here till he comes down.  There's a man over there who will lift his hat when Older comes through the door, and that will give me the signal who he is."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The man to whom the Mexican confided was a friend of the man who warned me.  I had done favors for both of them <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>It was some years later that I heard from Peter Claudianos, now doing life in San Quentin for dynamiting the house of one of our star witnesses, Gallagher, of another plan which was spoiled by the plain clothes men.  He told me that when plans were made for dynamiting Gallagher they thought they might as well dynamite me at the same time.  So Felix Padauveris, who was in charge of the job, rented the cottage just below mine at the beach, and stored in the basement of it fifteen pounds of dynamite.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He and Claudianos visited the beach, breakfasted in Mrs. Gunn's restaurant, looked the situation over, and made all their plans for placing the dynamite.  But the presence of the two plain clothes men frightened them and they abandoned the idea.</P>
194.sgm:<P>These things seem so melodramatic that it is almost incredible that they could have occurred in a peaceful city, whose people, most of them, were going about their ordinary routine affairs, and who, when they read of the graft prosecution, saw only the surface facts that were printed and were probably bored by them long before the fight ended.  But the plots and counter plots of that time were innumerable.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Calhoun's detectives filled the city.  Calhoun was desperate.  He saw the penitentiary doors opening before him, in spite of his utmost efforts, and he stopped at nothing to save himself or to get revenge upon his implacable enemies.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After Roy had become friendly with me we all felt very grateful to him and used to dine or lunch in his restaurant as often as we could.  The restaurant was on Van Ness avenue near Sutter street, Van Ness avenue being at that time the center of the city, since downtown San Francisco was not yet rebuilt.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One morning about 11 o'clock I dropped into Roy's restaurant for breakfast.  I always wanted to have a chat with him, and, not seeing him, I asked the waiter where he was.  The waiter said: "He's over there in the corner.  Don't you see him?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy was sitting with his back to me, talking to a strange man.  After a moment he rose, and, coming over to me, handed me an envelope, with an affable smile, saying: "Look at this.  Pretend.  As soon as that man goes out I have something to tell you."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He went back.  When the man went out Roy came over and told me that he was Luther Brown, whom Calhoun had brought from Los Angeles to head his force of detectives.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Roy asked: "What do you want me to do?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"We want you to be with us."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, in that case I want to see Calhoun.  I want to talk to him."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"All right.  I'll see him tomorrow and make the appointment."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy reported this to Burns, as well as to me, and Burns suggested that he keep the appointment, which he did.  He called at Calhoun's house and found Calhoun out in his garden, picking roses.  He met Roy very cordially and asked him into the house, where he took him into a room and closed the doors.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy said: "Well, what is it?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Roy, I want you to ship with me for the whole trip."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, what do you want me to do?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I want you to name your price for testifying that Spreckels is to pay Older $15,000 and Heney $15,000 the day that I am convicted; that Spreckels also offered you $15,000, and $10,000 each to Gallagher and one or two of the other supervisors for testifying that I had bribed them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy said: "What about my friends?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Calhoun replied: "I'll take care of your friends.  You mean Dr. Poheim and Frank Maestretti.  I'll take care of Poheim, and Maestretti is all right because Herrin is handling him.  At any rate, I want to see you tomorrow.  If you will take a certain boat, go to Oakland, you will find an automobile waiting at a certain place.  Get in that automobile, and you will be driven out to where I am.  I am going to handle this thing, Roy.  I don't want any more Fords handling my affairs.  From now on I'm going to handle this myself."</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>PLOTTING WITH ROY</P>
194.sgm:<P>ROY was by this time sincerely devoted to the graft prosecution and in entire sympathy with our purposes.  If coercion had been necessary at first to bring him into line--and I do not know that it was necessary; I only know that I used it--persuasion of that kind was no longer necessary to keep him with us.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He reported to us his conversation with Calhoun, and with Burns' advice he followed the instructions that had been given him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Next morning, with Dr. Poheim, he took the ferry Calhoun had suggested, found an automobile waiting for them in Oakland, and got into it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The machine took them to Luther Brown's father in law's house, near San Leandro.  In the yard were Calhoun, with several of his attorneys, Luther Brown and some of Brown's detectives.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy said, "Well, Calhoun, I am not going to allow any Tirey L. Ford to handle my affairs either.  I'm not going to talk before all these people."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Calhoun said, "Come upstairs and we will talk alone.  He took Roy into an upstairs bedroom, and they sat down on the edge of the bed.  Calhoun said, quietly, "Roy, what do you want?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well," Roy said.  "I've got to be made whole on my investments in San Francisco.  I'm connected with some pretty big people, and if I throw them down San Francisco will be no place for me.  I'll have to leave town."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"All right.  What are your investments?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, there's my restaurant."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What does that stand you?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Thirty-two thousand," said Roy.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'll take care of that," said Calhoun.  "What else have you got?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"A skating rink."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What does that amount to?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Twenty thousand."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'll take care of that.  Anything else?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ray enumerated various interests that had to be covered.  In all, they amounted to $80,000.  Calhoun agreed to pay him that amount.  In return Roy was to go on the stand and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"Well," said Calhoun, "we've got to arrange this thing in some way so that it won't be subornation of perjury.  But that can be arranged.  That's only a matter of detail.  Now as to Poheim."</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was agreed that Poheim was to have $25,000.</P>
194.sgm:<P>All this Roy immediately reported to us.  But a few days later he met Calhoun, and Calhoun said, "There's a little hitch in this plan of mine.  I told it to John Garber, and he told me we were heading for the penitentiary on this stuff.  It rattled me a little, what he said.  Still, I'm convinced that I'm right, and I'm going ahead with it.  But I want a little time to think it over."</P>
194.sgm:<P>John Garber was a very famous lawyer here.  His advice undoubtedly disturbed Calhoun.  Later, Roy learned that he had acquainted others of his attorneys with the negotiations thus far, and they had told him it was undoubtedly a Burns trap, so the matter hung fire for some time before Calhoun reopened it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, we were hammering at Ruef and Schmitz in the courts.  The Bulletin was printing all that it dared to print of the truth, and San Francisco was divided into two violently opposing camps, one believing that we were pure white crusaders, endeavoring to rid the city of evil men, and the other declaring that we were henchmen of Spreckels, persecuting the man who had saved the city from ruin at the hands of the unions.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We had brought Schmitz back from Europe, arrested him and tried him, while he was still Mayor of San Francisco.  He stood in the dock as Mayor of San Francisco, and he went out from the dock to the Mayor's office and conducted the affairs of the city as a suspected criminal.  He was proved guilty of bribery in the French restaurant cases and sentenced to San Quentin for five years.  After his conviction he was taken to the Ingleside jail, and proceedings were brought to remove him from the Mayor's chair.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The city was then without a Mayor.  It fell to us to choose one, because the man to fill the empty place was to be chosen by the Board of Supervisors, and we held eighteen of them in the hollow of our hands on account of their confessions.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The matter hung fire for some time while we tried to decide who should be Mayor of San Francisco.  Spreckels, Heney, Langdon and I were busy trying to find a suitable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>The first name suggested was that of Dr. Gallwey, a very popular physician here.  Some one went down to Santa Barbara, where he was staying, to ask him if he would be Mayor.  He refused.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Other names were mentioned, but we could not all agree upon one.  E. J. Livernash was at that time working with me.  He was a writer on the Bulletin, and I had him as my adviser in all my activities in the graft prosecution.  One day he said to me that Phelan ought to be appointed.  I agreed.  Livernash said: "Of course, labor has been against him, but that can be arranged.  I think we can induce labor to accept him."</P>
194.sgm:<P>With this idea in mind, we drove out to Phelan's residence, where Rudolph Spreckels was dining.  Just as we stopped in front of the house, Phelan and Spreckels came out together and walked toward our automobile.  Livernash said: "We have decided that Phelan is the man for Mayor."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Spreckels said instantly: "I won't stand for him."  That angered us both.  I said: "Why not?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Spreckels replied: "Because he is too close to me."  He meant, of course, that Phelan was so closely associated with him that his appointment would make it appear that Spreckels was choosing the Mayor.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Livernash became very angry and said: "Well, then, I'm done with the whole thing.  I'll have nothing more to do with it!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>We drove away in a huff.  We were both so angry that it appeared that there was a split between the few men in whose hands the selection of a Mayor lay.  But San Francisco was without a Mayor, and something had to be done.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>MAKING TAYLOR MAYOR</P>
194.sgm:<P>ON THE following morning Livernash and I met as usual.  A night's sleep had cooled us both.  Livernash said it was a pity to quarrel with Spreckels at such a critical time.  I agreed with him and hastened away to find Spreckels.  I met him at Heney's office and assured him that we would continue to co-operate with him and try to find a suitable man for Mayor.  All along Livernash had been strong for Michael Casey, president of the Teamsters' Union.  At that time Casey was a big figure with the labor men.  He and Andrew Furuseth had fought Bowling's crowd in the Carmen's Union, trying to defeat Calhoun's movement to bring on a strike.  They knew that Calhoun had his strike-breakers here ready to break the strike, so that Calhoun might gain the applause of the powerful people of the city.  But Spreckels would not stand for Casey.  He did not share the confidence that Furuseth, Livernash and I had in him.  And we were compelled to abandon him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After leaving Spreckels I returned to Livernash's office and together we searched our minds for the name of a man that the people would accept.  I remembered the old Board of Freeholders that had framed the Phelan charter, and it occurred to me that perhaps some of those names would do.  I asked Livernash if he had a copy of the charter which contained the names of the Board of Freeholders, most of whom we had forgotten.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said he didn't know.  He had moved to temporary quarters after the fire, his books were disturbed, and if he had one he didn't know where it was.  He went over to a corner of his office, where a lot of pamphlets and odds and ends of papers had been dumped, and pawed them over.  He finally found a ragged copy of the charter, knocked the dust from it against a corner of his desk and handed it to me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I looked over the names of the freeholders, and when I came to E. R. Taylor I said: "Dr. Taylor is the man."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Wonderful," said Livernash.  "But he's dead."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "No!  Is he?  He can't be!  I saw him in a Sutter street car not over a month ago."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Then," said Livernash, "he's the man, by all means."</P>
194.sgm:<P>We both reasoned that Dr. Taylor was eminently respectable.  He was a lawyer and a physician and a poet, and, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I said: "Dr. Taylor is the man."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Just the man!" he said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He called Langdon on the telephone within a minute and said: "Dr. Taylor."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Langdon said: "Just the man!" Every one agreed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>That night the puppet Board of Supervisors met and Dr. Taylor was made mayor of San Francisco.  He was an admirable mayor for our purposes, eminently just and inoffensive to every one.  The city seemed fairly well pleased with the selection.  He took office immediately.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Meanwhile we continued our fight against the grafters.  We had the confessions of the eighteen supervisors, and of Ruef.  We had promised the supervisors immunity, because we knew that behind them were Ruef and Schmitz and Ford.  We had promised to let Ruef off with one year's sentence, because we knew that behind him were men still higher up, Calhoun and others, more influential and thus infinitely more dangerous.  These were the men we wanted to get.</P>
194.sgm:<P>But while we were engaged in tracking down Calhoun, Calhoun and his hired force of detectives were not idle.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One day a man called at my office and told me that he had been in the employ of the Pinkertons, but had been dismissed.  The reason he gave was that a number of Pinkerton detectives had organized, demanded more money, and struck.  The local manager, in retaliation, had reported these men to the Eastern headquarters as having falsified their reports, and the men were dismissed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>My informant said that he had then gone to work as a Pullman conductor on the Southern Pacific.  Knowing that Pinkertons were doing work for the Southern Pacific, he had put in a knock against them with the superintendent in San Francisco, and this had resulted in his being discharged by the railroad company.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Those--Pinkertons have got me fired twice," he said bitterly.  "Now, Mr. Older, I don't want any money for the service that I can render you.  I just want to get evened up with the Pinkertons.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"There is a prominent labor leader, affiliated with the Water Front Federation of Labor, who is a Pinkerton spy, employed by Pinkerton to betray labor.  He makes it a business to keep watch on the docks, and whenever he hears any one advocating higher wages or shorter hours, or in any way objecting to the present condition of affairs, he reports <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"Now, I can get the originals of those reports, and I'll be glad to do it for you.  I want to show those Pinkertons that they can't ruin a man like me without any comeback."</P>
194.sgm:<P>His statement was so startling that I wanted time to think it over.  If it were true, and he could obtain those reports for me, it would be one of the biggest labor stories that had ever been published in San Francisco.  All my newspaper instincts were aroused.  I asked the man to call again next day at 12 o'clock.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIV</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>PLOT AND COUNTERPLOT</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE next day the Pinkerton man called, bringing another man with him.  I had also asked a man, a friend of mine, to be present during the interview.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The detective introduced the man he brought as "Mr. So-and-So, who is still employed by Pinkerton.  But he is as sore at them as I am."  He said: "This man can get those reports for you."</P>
194.sgm:<P>They both went over the statement he had made to me the day before.  A prominent labor leader was betraying his followers to the Pinkertons, his reports were obtainable, and these men could get them for me, and would.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "How?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>He replied: "By opening the safe after office hours and taking them."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "Do you know the combination of the safe?  Are you sure you can get them?"  I knew this would be a tremendous story for the Bulletin.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The two men explained how they would get the reports, the original reports, signed by this man who was betraying labor.  But while they talked the friend that I had asked into the room looked at me, caught my eye, and I saw in his face that he suspected a trap.  I got the two men out of my office as best I could, saying as little as possible.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After they had gone, I sent for Detective Burns and told him what had happened.  He said: "My God, you had a narrow escape.  Were you thinking of taking those documents and printing them?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "I had in mind that he had a big newspaper story in his possession, and I hadn't stopped to consider any further than that."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said: "Well, this is what would have happened if you had gone on with it.  The safe in the Pinkerton office would have been blown.  You wouldn't have known that until after you had printed the documents.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Then you would have been arrested for burglary.  The two men who called on you would testify that you had employed them to burglarize the safe in the Pinkerton office.  They would testify that they had only carried out your orders.  They would have turned state's evidence on you, and you would have gone to San Quentin."</P>
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194.sgm:<P>It was the narrowest escape from the penitentiary that I ever had.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ruef had been tried, the jury had disagreed, and we were holding him for his second trial.  Calhoun's turn was approaching.  Again Calhoun sent for Roy.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Luther Brown came to see him, and took him to Calhoun.  Calhoun said: "Now, Roy, I want you with me in this trial.  I can make you a rich man without leaving this chair.  I can manipulate common stock of the United Railroads so that you can make $150,000 easily.  I will fix up Poheim, too.  Now I want an affidavit from you, testifying to the bribery of Older, Burns and Heney by Spreckels."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy pretended to agree, and as he was going out of the room Luther Brown handed him $3000, carelessly, as a sort of token of good will.  Roy brought this money to Burns, and Burns told him to go on with the negotiations.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A few days later Brown sent for Roy.  When Roy entered Brown had just finished an affidavit on the typewriter.  This affidavit implicated Burns, Heney, Gallagher and myself as having been bribed by Spreckels.</P>
194.sgm:<P>To gain time, Roy said: "This is an affidavit, a pretty serious thing.  I'm liable to be caught up for perjury in an affidavit.  Make it in the form of a statement.  Give me a copy of it and let me think it over."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Brown gave him the copy, and Roy brought it right down to me.  I made a copy of it instantly and put it in Phelan's safe.  It is still there.  I did this to protect myself.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy went back, under instructions from Burns, and put over a very clever move.  He said: "Now this is not to be used unless I give my consent.  Is that right?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Brown replied: "Yes, I'll agree to that."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Very well, then, just write that down on the bottom there and sign it," said Roy, and Brown wrote it in his own handwriting and signed his name to it.  Roy carried this away with him and we put it in Heney's safe.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A little later Brown said to Roy: "Some one has peached on us."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy said: "I don't think so.  What do you mean?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`Well,' said Calhoun to me: `Some one is leaking in your camp.'  I asked him what he meant.  He said: `Well, now here's something.  You haven't told anybody that you signed your name to a statement of Roy's, have you?'  I told him no.  He said: `Well, you did, didn't you?'  I said yes.  Calhoun came back at me: `Well, you see, I know it.  How do I know it if somebody hasn't leaked?'"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"That stumped me," said Brown.  "Somebody is leaking.  Who do you suppose it is?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy said: "I can't imagine."</P>
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194.sgm:<P>Brown was furious, because this leak had destroyed the whole scheme.  He had arranged to get $150,000 from Calhoun for Roy and $50,000 for Poheim.  Brown was to have half of these sums, or $100,000 for himself, out of the deal.  He had counted on making a cleanup.  Now this leak had wrecked the whole thing.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy came to Burns and me about this.  Burns immediately said: "Didn't you show that affidavit to your lawyer?"  Roy said that he had.  "Well," Burns said, "he's the one that told Calhoun."</P>
194.sgm:<P>According to Roy, Brown blamed his failure to one of Calhoun's attorneys.  "He's got a nerve," Roy quoted Brown as saying, "to queer my game, when he came near putting ropes around all our necks."  Roy assumed that Brown was referring to the dynamiting of Gallagher's house.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This will give an idea of the web of plot and counterplot in which we were struggling.  In spite of our effort to keep the one issue clear before the people, they were confused by the multitude of persons involved, the innumerable conflicting stories set afloat.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The prominent people of San Francisco had deserted us when we attacked their savior, Calhoun.  Now, through the long delays of the courts, and the confusion, a general weariness was beginning to spread through the city.  People were tired of hearing about the graft prosecution.  We encountered apathy on one hand and on the other the relentless determination of powerful men who were fighting for their lives.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The United Railroads people had tried innumerable plans to get me out of their way.  By this time they had become desperate.  We were trying Ford, and Calhoun's turn was approaching.  At this juncture, inadvertently, I turned Luther Brown's hatred of me into a murderous rage.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The United Railroads were making an attempt to involve Supervisor Tom Lonergan with a woman, in order to break him down as a witness in the Ford trial.  In uncovering the story, one of the Bulletin reporters in writing it made the mistake of using Luther Brown's name instead of that of another Brown, who was also a detective in the employ of Calhoun.  The following day I corrected the error and forgot the incident.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A few days later I was waiting for Rudolph Spreckels in Heney's office.  I was talking with Charley Cobb, Heney's partner, when the telephone rang.  I lifted the receiver.  A voice said: "Is Mr. Older there?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I am Mr. Older."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I am Mr. Stapleton, Mr. Older.  If you'll come to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I asked him if he could not come to Heney's office.  He said it was impossible.  He was being watched, and it would not be safe.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "Very well.  I'll come to the Savoy Hotel."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The voice insisted that I come immediately, and I agreed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Before leaving the office I turned to Charley Cobb and said: "This may be a trap.  If I am not back in half an hour, you may be sure that it is.  Tell this to Spreckels."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Then I went out and started toward Van Ness avenue.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXV</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>IN CALHOUN'S CLUTCHES</P>
194.sgm:<P>I WALKED direct down to Van Ness avenue from Franklin, and turned down Van Ness.</P>
194.sgm:<P>As I turned I noticed an automobile with four men in it that looked to me like pretty tough characters.  They were all looking at me, and the machine seemed to be hovering along close to the sidewalk as I walked.  Suddenly it stopped and two men jumped out.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One of them stepped up to me.  He was very pale and nervous; his hands trembled as he pulled out of his pocket a paper which he said was a warrant for my arrest on a charge of criminal libel.  He said the warrant was issued in Los Angeles.  He then showed me a constable's star and told me to get into the machine and go with him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I told him that I wanted to see my lawyer and arrange bail.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said: "We will go to Judge Cook's chambers.  Judge Cook has vised this warrant, and you can get out an order for bail through him."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "Very well, I'll go."  But I was very apprehensive.</P>
194.sgm:<P>As I stepped into the machine one of the men that was on the sidewalk rubbed his hands over my hips, obviously to see whether I was carrying firearms.  This made me still more suspicious.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I sat in the machine on the right hand side of the tonneau.  Next to me was a young man who had not got out of the car when it stopped.  Next to him on the left sat one of the men who had got out.  The constable sat in the front seat with the chauffeur.  The car started down Van Ness at great speed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was after the fire, when the various departments of the Superior Court were scattered, and I had no accurate knowledge of the location of Judge Cook's court.  But when the car swung out Golden Gate avenue I noticed Luther Brown, Calhoun's chief detective, and Porter Ashe, one of Calhoun's lawyers, in a car, leading the way.  They were looking back.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I became greatly excited.  When we got to Fillmore street I said: "Where are Judge Cook's chambers?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>The man in the front seat turned and said: "We are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>101</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>Then I knew that it was a trap.  The car was speeding faster and faster out Golden Gate avenue toward the park.  I started to rise, looking sharply up and down the street to catch the eye of someone I knew or to attract the attention of a policeman.</P>
194.sgm:<P>As I arose the man next to me pressed against my side a pistol that he had in his right hand coat pocket.  He said: "If you make any attempt to escape I'll shoot you."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I could not possibly have been more frightened than I was then.  I felt quite sure that they were going to take me out to some lonely spot on the beach or in the San Bruno hills and murder me.  The car kept on, following the Luther Brown car, and I knew that Luther Brown had planned the expedition and that he was capable of almost anything.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I began trying to summon what philosophy I could.  I felt that I was going to die very soon.  My only hope was that death would be quick.  I feared, however, that they might torture me, in order to get some kind of statement from me before killing me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>However, being an inveterate cigar smoker, I took a cigar out of my pocket and lighted it.  My lips were dry, my tongue was parched; but I made a fairly good effort at a careless air, and said to the dark man on the front seat:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"This is a job put up by the United Railroads.  I don't blame them for fighting me.  It is quite natural that they should.  I have been fighting them pretty hard.  But this kind of a deal isn't fair.  It isn't sportsmanlike.  They are dealing the cards from under the table."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I noticed a slight expression in the corner of the dark man's eye that gave me a little hope.  He looked like a sport.  I thought perhaps my appeal had struck home.</P>
194.sgm:<P>On we went down the road, past San Bruno, past the Fourteen Mile House, on down through Burlingame and San Mateo, at fully forty miles an hour.  After we had passed Belmont it grew too dark to travel without lights.  Both cars stopped.  Luther Brown's car perhaps 200 feet in advance.  The chauffeur got out and lighted the headlamps, and we went on to Redwood City.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Both cars stopped a little distance from the station, in the shadow of the freight shed, and waited.  When the Los Angeles Lark stopped I was asked to get out, and was taken into the train and into a stateroom that had been previously provided in San Francisco.  Only the two constables accompanied me.  The chauffeur and the gunman did not join us.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Dinner was being served.  After an interval they took me to the diner.  We three sat at one table.  During the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>102</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>"I don't care a damn about myself.  I am quite well along in years and have lived a pretty full life.  But I am concerned about Mrs. Older.  She will be in a terrible state of mind over my disappearance.  She undoubtedly is in that condition now, because this is just about the time that we were to be together at a little dinner party at the Francisco cafe on Van Ness avenue.  By this time the news of my disappearance has spread and no doubt the police department is looking for me.  She will think I have been murdered.  I don't ask any mercy from the United Railroads for myself, but I don't think it is quite fair to make her suffer, too."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The dark man said: "By God, you write a telegram to her or to any one you like, and I'll file it at San Jose.  I won't stand for this thing unless you are allowed to communicate with your friends!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>He pushed a telegraph blank over to me, and sitting at the table in the diner I wrote a telegram to Rudolph Spreckels to this effect:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'm being spirited away on a south bound coast train.  I don't know where I am going or what is going to happen.  It is a United Railroads job."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The dark man said he would file this dispatch at San Jose.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He got off the train at San Jose, was gone two or three minutes and came back, saying the telegram would go within an hour.  There was a telegraphers' strike on, and there might be some delay.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I did not know whether or not to believe him.  It was not until later that I learned that Luther Brown had taken the message from him, read it, and torn it up.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After dinner we returned to the stateroom, talked until midnight, and went to bed, the two constables in the lower berth and I in the upper.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVI</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>RESCUED AT SANTA BARBARA</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE train was nearing Santa Barbara when the constables rose in the morning.  We went into the diner for breakfast and returned to the stateroom.  A little later the train stopped at Santa Barbara,  and looking out of the window I thought that all of Santa Barbara was there at the station.</P>
194.sgm:<P>There were many automobiles filled with people, ladies with their parasols, chauffeurs, boys and men crowding the platform.  It was a gay looking party.  I thought they must be seeing a wedding party off to Los Angeles.  I did not relate the crowd to myself at all.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Suddenly there was a loud rap on the stateroom door.  The constable opened it, and a man appeared and served them both with subpenas and told me to go with him.  The dark man accompanied us.  The other man disappeared.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We were driven to the sheriff's office in the courthouse, and I learned that a writ of habeas corpus had been issued by the judge of the Superior Court in Santa Barbara, upon the telephonic request of Rudolph Spreckels and Francis J. Heney.  The legal point was that I had asked for bail in San Francisco and had not been given a chance to obtain it, and the taking me out of the city and county of San Francisco was a felony.  Spreckels had employed a Santa Barbara lawyer to look after the case.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The case was called immediately upon the arrival of the judge.  I took the witness stand and told my story.  The United Railroads had employed a lawyer, and the legal point was threshed out by the two attorneys.  During my testimony I saw the United Railroads lawyer talking to the dark man and saw him shaking his head.  The judge saw this, too.  He looked at the attorney and said:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I see in the courtroom the constable who accompanied Mr. Older, who has not been called to testify.  Unless he takes the stand and denies that Mr. Older asked for bail in San Francisco I shall release Mr. Older on bail."</P>
194.sgm:<P>There was another whispered conversation between the attorney and the dark man, and another shaking of the dark man's head.  The attorney said: "There is no evidence.  We have no witnesses."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The judge thereupon released me on bail.  There were <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>After being released I joined the dark man and walked out of the courtroom with him, and he said: "You remember the remark you made in the automobile, that it wasn't sportsmanlike?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "Yes."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, that kind of got me, and so when it came to the point of testifying to a lie, to have you held, I refused to do it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I thanked him very cordially for what he had done.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I did not realize till later in the day what a shock it had all been to me.  Lane and I went out to the beach and had a swim and everything around me seemed queer.  I couldn't realize anything very definitely.  I was stunned, and I must have been very much more alarmed than I had seemed to be when I was in the greatest danger.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I learned later that the only reason why I am now alive to tell my story is due to the lack of nerve of the man who sat next to me with the gun.  He was told, so he has since informed the chauffeur of the car, that he would be paid $10,000 if he killed me on the trip.  The plan was that I should be taken from the train at San Luis Obispo, taken through the mountains in an automobile, and killed there.</P>
194.sgm:<P>They were relying on the evidence of the constables and the gun man and the chauffeur that I tried to escape while under arrest, and was killed in an attempt to prevent my succeeding.  Luther Brown was from Los Angeles, and he had got a friendly justice of the peace to issue a secret warrant for me, so that they would have acted under a color of law.  But the gunman said that he lost his nerve.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was still in the dark as to how the warning had been given my friends.  After I returned to San Francisco I learned that a young lawyer was in the diner when I was sitting there, next to the table where Porter Ashe and Luther Brown were.  He overheard Porter Ashe's conversation, and it led him to believe that something unusual was happening, that they had someone on the train who was important, and were spiriting away.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He followed Ashe outside the diner and asked, "Who have you got?"  Ashe said, "We've got Fremont Older."</P>
194.sgm:<P>This young man had overheard in the diner something about taking me from the train at San Luis Obispo and giving me a run through the mountains, and he surmised that if that happened I would probably never be seen alive again.  He was very much alarmed, and though he had intended to go on to Los Angeles, he got off the train at Salinas at 1 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>105</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>This was the first news my friends had of what was happening.  They busied themselves preparing the writ of habeas corpus, which was telephoned to Santa Barbara.  The Santa Barbara morning papers had the story, and that was why the crowd had assembled at the station.  All the trainmen were placed under arrest, and the train searched for me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This young lawyer would not let his name appear in the affair, either then or later.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The two constables turned state's evidence before the grand jury, and the grand jury indicted both Ashe and Brown for felony.  Both of the chauffeurs disappeared, and also the man with the gun.  Luther Brown was tried in Judge Dunne's court, not by Dunne, but by a visiting country judge, and was acquitted, which was an indication of how unpopular the graft prosecution had become.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The story of this affair spread around the world, and the London Times printed a two column story about it.  Sometime later I met a member of the English Parliament.  I asked him if he had ever been in San Francisco before.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said, "No.  It's a very interesting city.  I've read some very strange stories about you people, but the incredible one I read in the London Times, a paper that I had always regarded as a truthful journal."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What was the story?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"It was an amazing story," he said.  "It was a story of the kidnaping in broad daylight of an editor.  He was carried away in an automobile at the point of a pistol."</P>
194.sgm:<P>And I said, "Why, that's a true story.  I'm the editor."</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>EFFORT TO SAVE FORD</P>
194.sgm:<P>AS I have said, Tirey L. Ford, chief attorney for the United Railroads, who had passed the bribery money from Calhoun to Ruef, was indicted with Calhoun.  He was put on the calendar for trial before Calhoun, because we hoped after convicting him to make him confess and turn evidence against Calhoun.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A short time before his case was to be called in Lawlor's court, an old friend of mine called on me at the Bulletin office and asked if I was still friendly to Ford, as I used to be.  Suspecting that something was about to develop that would be helpful, I dodged the direct answer and said that I was sorry for him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Why?"  I asked.</P>
194.sgm:<P>My friend said: "Well, I thought if you were still friendly with him you might be willing to sit down with him and talk this thing over."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I told him I would be very glad to talk with Ford, and I would go still further.  If Ford was willing to make an affidavit that he had received money from Calhoun for the purpose of bribing the supervisors through Ruef for the overhead trolley franchise, I would guarantee that he would never be tried at all.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said that I was strong enough with the other members of the graft prosecution to promise this without consulting them.  My friend replied that he would arrange a meeting between me and Ford very soon.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A few days later my friend returned, and said: "We have decided that it is dangerous for you and Ford to meet.  Ford is being shadowed by Calhoun.  Calhoun is fearful that Ford is about to make some statement.  We have decided that a very close relative of Ford will call on you.  He has full authority from Ford; everything he says will be just the same as though Ford said it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"All right, have him call," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The close relative and friend of Ford was Louis F. Byington, a well known attorney of San Francisco.  He came into my office not long afterward, and asked me what I wanted from Ford.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said I wanted the truth about Ford's connection with the bribery of Ruef and the supervisors for Calhoun.  Byington said: "Ford is perfectly willing to give you that.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>I was very indignant.  No one could possibly believe such a story as that, I said.  Every one knew that Calhoun had intended to bribe the supervisors, that he had paid the $200,000 to Ford knowing that it was bribe money; that Ford had paid it to Ruef knowing it; that Ruef had paid it to the supervisors knowing it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>And now Ford came forward with this story of Ruef being employed as an attorney, and paid an attorney's fee.  Even if I were willing to accept a statement like that, none of my colleagues would consider it for an instant.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"It is the truth," Byington insisted.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I told him the story was useless to us.  We might as well stop negotiations right there, if they began that way.  I promised him, however, that I would not publicly use the statement he had made to me, and I never did.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After Judge Lawlor refused to agree to Burns' plan to let Ruef go free on the French restaurant case, Burns had gone ahead and with the help of Dr. Nieto and Dr. Kaplan the two Jewish rabbis, he had succeeded in obtaining a statement from Ruef which involved the big magnates of San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I knew nothing of the details of obtaining this statement, and nothing of the inducements held out to Ruef, until during the Schmitz trial.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One day while Schmitz was being tried Burns and I were sitting in an automobile in front of the courtroom.  Ruef was on the witness stand, and Burns was uneasy, nervous and absentminded.  At last he said: "I hope to God they don't ask Ruef anything about what he has been offered in this case."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said: "What has he been offered?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burns replied: "He has an immunity contract in all the big cases."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You don't mean that he has in his possession written and signed a contract giving him immunity on all the big cases?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Burns, "that's the truth.  I am afraid they will bring it out in court.  If they do, we're gone."</P>
194.sgm:<P>But they did not bring it out, and Schmitz was convicted and sentenced to five years in the penitentiary.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After this it was Heney's intention to use Ruef as a witness against Ford, but suddenly, without explanation to me, he changed his mind.  All that he told me was that he had a new plan for trying Ford.  I said: "In what way?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'm going to use Ruef as a witness," Heney said, "I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I wondered at this.  It seemed to me strange that Heney should cut Ruef's evidence.  I asked Burns why Heney was doing this.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burns said that Ruef had fallen down, had broken his agreement with us.  Jim Gallagher had taken a letter from Ford to Ruef warning Ruef of the possibility of a grand jury investigation of the United Railroads, and warning Ruef to beware, to be on his guard.  Ruef had testified to this letter before the grand jury, but when the evidence was being worked up against Ford, Ruef said he couldn't recall the letter.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was Burns' story to me, and I accepted it without question.  I felt that Ruef had played us false, and I was in favor of prosecuting him most bitterly, giving him as long a sentence as possible.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ford was tried without Ruef's evidence, and was acquitted.  Ruef was tried, the jury disagreed, and he was held for a second trial.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was in this second trial that the greatest sensation of the graft prosecution occurred.</P>
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194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXVIII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>CONVICTION OF RUEF</P>
194.sgm:<P>DURING the second trial of Ruef, we received several intimations that men on the jury panel had been approached and bribed to vote for acquittal.  We were unable to get hold of facts that would definitely prove this, until we came to Haas.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Haas was an ex-convict, and a lover of a married woman.  Bragging to her one day, he told her that he was to be on the Ruef jury, and would get several thousand dollars out of it.  She repeated this to her husband, and he, furious with rage and jealousy against Haas, sent the information to District Attorney Langdon.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When Haas was placed in the jury box for examination, Judge Lawlor called him up and asked him if there was any reason why he should not serve as a juror.  Haas replied that there was not.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Heney, not wanting to waste a peremptory challenge upon him, and seeing that he would not take advantage of the loophole given him, then exposed the fact that he had done time in the penitentiary, and he was dismissed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He was shamed and humiliated by this exposure.  The United Railroads detectives seized on this fact, taunted and laughed at him for lying down under such an injury, and at last worked him into a desperate frame of mind.  He became obsessed with the idea that he could wipe out the injury only by killing Heney.  Just before the court was called to order after recess, he walked up behind Heney and shot him through the head.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The town went wild with excitement at the news.  Haas was carried off by policemen and thrown into jail.  Heney was placed in an ambulance, supposed to be dying, and was heard to say in the ambulance, "I'll get them yet!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was, of course, pretty nearly insane.  I followed the ambulance to the hospital and got such news as I could of Heney's condition.  The surgeons could not say whether or not he would live.  I rushed back to the hall that was being used by Judge Lawlor as a courtroom, crying out for Ruef, trying in my half-mad condition to further infuriate the already infuriated crowd there into taking some violent action.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The streets were flooded with extras, and the city was for once thoroughly aroused.  Crowds gathered on the streets <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>San Francisco's mood was dangerous that night, and the slightest impetus would have precipitated the crowds into mobs, ready for lynching.  A wildly excited mass meeting was held.  However, cooler counsels prevailed, and nothing was done.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We made every effort to get a statement from Haas as to who had inspired him to do what he had done, but a few days later he was found shot in his cell in the city prison.  He had obtained a gun from some source and committed suicide.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The town was still aroused to a point where it seemed we could go ahead with the trial of Ruef and convict him.  Hiram Johnson and Matt I. Sullivan volunteered their services in Heney's place, and the trial went on, while Heney lay on his back at the Lane Hospital.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burns had reported that four of the jurors had been fixed, and he gave us their names.  Hiram Johnson made most effective use of this information in his dramatic talk to the jury.  He called each of these men by name, pointing to him, and said, "YOU, you DARE NOT acquit this man!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>We hoped to get a quick verdict, but we didn't.  The jury retired to a room over the courtroom in Carpenters' Hall and were out all night.  There was a meeting that night and all sorts of wild plans were discussed, but nothing came of it.  None of us slept.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The next morning the jury was still out.  After a sleepless night I went to the courtroom, in a very overwrought condition of mind, and insisted upon the making of an outcry in the court in case the jury came in to ask for instructions.  I would demand that justice be done, and the crowded courtroom should let the jury see its temper.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was talked out of this foolish idea by another man no less overwrought than myself, who ended by saying that he would make the outcry himself.  But the jury was not brought in.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The day dragged on.  The jury was still out in the afternoon.  At about 2 o'clock Heney telephoned me that he was well enough to come down to the courtroom and pay his respects to Judge Lawlor.  I thought I saw in this a chance to get a verdict.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I telephoned Heney to wait until I came for him.  Then I telephoned to the League of Justice, a group of people organized to support the graft prosecution.  They had a number of men, called "minute men," whom they could get at a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I reasoned that while the shout could be considered merely a welcome to Heney, it would have the effect of so thoroughly scaring the jury that it would bring in a verdict.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Heney came.  I walked in with him, and I have never heard such a roar as went up.  It lasted for five minutes.  Twenty minutes later the jury came in, some of them white, shaking and with tears on their cheeks, and returned a verdict of guilty.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was our first big victory.  We had convicted Ruef.  Judge Lawlor gave him fourteen years at San Quentin, the utmost penalty the law allowed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ford had been acquitted of the charge of giving the bribe money to Ruef, but Ruef had been convicted of taking it.  It only remained to try Calhoun.  This was to be our big star performance.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXIX</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>RUEF SENT TO THE PENITENTIARY</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE conviction of Ruef was our first great definite triumph.  It exalted us.  For days I refused to entertain any misgivings, or allow anxiety to dilute the unrestrained pleasure I felt.  Soon, however, came the worry about the upper courts.  Would the appellate or supreme court dare to upset our work of years and save Ruef from the penitentiary?  We hoped not, but we feared.  Their previous rulings had all been against us.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Henry Ach was Ruef's leading attorney, and we knew his remarkable ability and resourcefulness.  He prepared the appeal to the appellate court, working on it for months.  It was said to contain more than a million words.  It had the record for size and hair splitting technicalities.</P>
194.sgm:<P>To our astonishment and satisfaction, the appellate court made short work of it.  In an amazingly brief space of time after the case was submitted, a decision came down upholding the verdict in the lower court.  This lessened our fear of the supreme court.  We reasoned that it would not have the courage to interfere.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In time Ach petitioned the supreme court for a rehearing, and to our horror it was granted, four of the seven justices voting for it.  Were we to be thus balked of our prey?  Enraged, I assigned several men to the work of attacking the decision, the justices, the lawyers, and everyone remotely connected with it.  I realized that it would accomplish nothing in legally altering the status of the case, but perhaps I could arouse public indignation, and failing in that, at least I could have revenge.  The article that I prepared covered every possible angle of the case, including interviews with attorneys favorable to our side, and vicious attacks upon the justices.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At an early hour on the morning following this publication, Charles S. Wheeler, the well known attorney, called on me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said, "I read the article in the Bulletin last evening, and I have come to you because you are the only member of the graft prosecution in the city.  Spreckels and Heney are in the East.  Do you want to send Ruef to the penitentiary on a technicality?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes, I do," I replied.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I think myself that it is only poetic justice that he should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"I think he ought to go," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Very well, then," said Wheeler.  "Make an appointment for me with Governor Johnson in Sacramento for this evening and have Attorney General Webb present, and I will explain how it can be done.  In your paper last night you had a story that after Justice Henshaw signed the order granting a rehearing, he left for the East, and when the decision was rendered he was not in the state.  You probably are ignorant of the legal significance of that fact, but it means that when Henshaw left the state, he was legally dead.  Therefore, only three members of a court of seven justices affirmed the decision.  It required four.  I will explain it all to the governor and the attorney general this evening."</P>
194.sgm:<P>At that time the legislature was in session and John Francis Neylan was the Bulletin's legislative correspondent.  I telephoned him to make the appointment.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Wheeler and I took the 5 o'clock train, and we were in the governor's office a little after 8.  The governor and the attorney general were waiting for us.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was, of course, in a great state of excitement.  In a few words I explained the reason for our visit and asked Wheeler to state the case.  He was very cool, calm and brilliant.  In the fewest words possible, he outlined the law pertaining to the absence of Henshaw from the state and he made it quite clear to Governor Johnson that the decision of the supreme court was worthless, and that if the attorney general would follow his instructions, it would be upset.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The governor and I were enthusiastic.  The attorney general was not.  He raised many objections.  This aroused the governor and in one of his characteristic speeches, he pointed out to Webb just what his duty was in the matter, and that this was not the time to quibble or hesitate.  When the governor finished, I broke into the discussion with a violent tirade about the enormity of Ruef's crimes, and being very angry at Webb's apparent hesitancy, said many foolish things which later I regretted.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The meeting ended, however, by Webb agreeing to do what Wheeler said could be legally done, which was to appear before the supreme court and point out to that body that Henshaw's signature to the order was non-existent after he left the state.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The attorney general carried out the program to the letter, and the court, with Henshaw acting, reversed itself.</P>
194.sgm:<P>All obstacles were thus cleared away and Ruef entered the penitentiary under a fourteen year sentence.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXX</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>JIM GALLAGHER WEAKENS</P>
194.sgm:<P>JIM GALLAGHER was our big witness in the trial of Calhoun.  Shortly before the case came to trial, Gallagher's house was dynamited, at a time when he and seven other people were in it.  No one was killed, although the building was wrecked.  Almost immediately afterward, some flats he owned in Oakland were dynamited.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Gallagher began to waver.  There was no question that he stood in hourly danger of death because of his value to us in the Calhoun case.  He was badly frightened.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We were doing our best to hold him in line, but this was naturally somewhat difficult.  Burns said that if something was not done to satisfy him, Gallagher would go away and leave us in the lurch, and we would fail in the Calhoun trial, our biggest case.  I asked what I could do, and Burns said that Gallagher felt he should at least be reimbursed for the destruction of his flats.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He wanted me to promise that after the Calhoun case was finished, Calhoun either convicted or acquitted or dismissed, that I would pay Gallagher $4500 for the destroyed flats.  Neither the district attorney, nor Heney, nor Burns, nor anyone officially connected with the prosecution, could offer Gallagher that money, but as a free lance I could do so.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I asked Burns if Gallagher would take my word for it.  Burns said he would.  So I sent for Gallagher and promised him the $4500 definitely, and he said, "I'll take your word, Mr. Older.  I'll remain and testify."</P>
194.sgm:<P>In doing this, I was not troubled by any finely construed points of law.  We knew that Calhoun was guilty, we felt that he ought to be punished.  If we could have convicted him without using any questionable methods, openly and above board, of course we would have preferred to do it that way.  But we could not, and since we had to fight fire with fire, and meet crookedness with devious methods, we did that.  The big thing, the only important thing, was to convict.  Everything else was lost sight of in that one intense desire, born of the long, hard fight.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When Calhoun came up for trial, Gallagher stayed with us, and testified.  The case dragged on, through all the delays and vexations and squabbles of such a case.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was very anxious that Roy tell on the stand the story <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>He said: "If they bring it out in questioning me, I'll tell the whole story; but if they don't I'd rather not."</P>
194.sgm:<P>They didn't, of course.  Calhoun's lawyers treated him very gingerly.  His examination was continued from one day to another, and before he was to go on the stand the second day I talked with him very earnestly.  I urged him to blurt out the whold affair, and I thought that I had got him to the point where he would do it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went with him into the courtroom.  When Calhoun's attorneys saw me in the court, they felt sure that I had persuaded Roy to tell the story, and they did not call him to the stand at all.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The jury finally came in with no verdict.  They stood 10 to 2 for acquittal, and were unable to reach a nearer agreement.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was hard to say why juries do these things.  The long, tiresome delays and arguments over minor and confusing points of law, the innumerable wearisome details, questions of exact time, of the character of witnesses, of precedents and procedures, undoubtedly wear out a juror's patience and exhaust him mentally.  But in this case there is no doubt money was used.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In addition to this, the excitement over Heney's shooting, and over the dynamiting of of Gallagher's house, had long died down when at last the Calhoun case went to the jury.  The graft prosecution had been fought for two long years.  People had tired of it.  They wanted it ended, no matter how, only that it was finished and done with.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The property owners of the city still regarded Calhoun as something of a hero for killing the street car strike, and also they felt that all this agitation about graft was not good for San Francisco's reputation.  Public opinion was setting hard against us.  The Calhoun disagreement really ended the graft prosecution, although we did not know it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was the fall of 1909.  The city elections were coming on, and again the fight became a political one.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The Calhoun people brought Charley Fickert into the fight as candidate for district attorney, obviously with the understanding that if he were elected he would dismiss the charges against Calhoun and all the other defendants.  Francis J. Heney ran against him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>For mayor, those favoring the grafters put up William Crocker, a planing mill man.  He was a Republican and it was thought by the powerful people here that he would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Crocker's candidacy brought the fight into my own office, and I found myself beset from both sides, trying to contend against enemies both outside and inside the Bulletin.  The trouble ran back directly to the old Tobin-Wells fight for mayor.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXI</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>THE GHOST OF THE TOBIN-WELLS FIGHT</P>
194.sgm:<P>DURING the entire progress of the graft fight the ghost of the old Tobin-Wells fight for Mayor haunted me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In my arrangements with Spreckels, before he agreed to help finance the graft fight, he insisted that he would not go into it unless it led to Herrin.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Herrin is the man behind the corruption of our whole state," he said.  "Herrin is the man who has broken down the morals of thousands of our young men, debauched our cities and our towns and our villages, corrupted our legislatures and courts.  I will not go into this thing unless it is understood that it doesn't stop short of dethroning Herrin."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I had promised that the trails would be followed, clear to their center in the Southern Pacific ring, and from that it followed naturally that the Bulletin was making a vigorous campaign against the head of the law department of the Southern Pacific.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Crothers became very nervous about it and suggested several times to me that he didn't want Herrin attacked.  I felt then that he feared Herrin would expose the Wells money paid the paper, but in spite of that power which Herrin held over us, I continued to go on with the campaign against him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Frequently Crothers would go into the printing office and look over the headlines himself, and if he discovered Herrin's name, would insist on its being lifted out of the paper, but even with this interference I managed to keep up the fight.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Finally, he told me flatly that he wanted the attacks on Herrin stopped, the criticism of Herrin to cease.  I replied frankly that it was impossible for me to do that, that the entire reportorial force was under full headway in the fight, and they were writing, all of them, from the angle of the paper's policy as it appeared to them, and I could not go to each man and tell him that he must not criticise Herrin.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I can't do it, Mr. Crothers, because I am ashamed for you.  If it's to be done, you'll have to do it yourself.  I can not."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He did not have the courage to do it, and it was never done.  However, all the time our opponents were trying to reach into the office.  They succeeded in getting the business manager at that time to undertake to break me down, but I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>After the friends of the big grafters put up Crocker for Mayor I heard that some of them were working on Crothers to get him to support Crocker.  Again I found myself in the same position I was when I opposed the Bulletin's supporting Wells.  I was quite sure Crothers would not switch the course of the paper in the midst of a big fight such as we were waging, for any other reason than the old reason.</P>
194.sgm:<P>However, as he said nothing to me about it, I hoped for the best.  Then one day he told me he thought we ought to support Crocker.  To do it meant to go over to the enemies of the graft prosecution, meant to support men who were pledged to dismiss our indictments and destroy the result of all our labor.  I told Crothers that I would not do it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He replied that he owned the Bulletin, and that it would support whomever he chose.  I grew very angry and excited and replied, "Yes, what you say is perfectly true.  You do own the Bulletin, but you don't own me, and I won't stand for Crocker."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I walked out of the room, very angry, determined never to return.  I went to my wife and told her that I was through with the Bulletin.  She wanted to know the reason, and I told her that Crothers had gone back to his old methods.  He was determined to get behind the candidate who represented the men we had been fighting, and I could not bring myself to continue in my position.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Later I had a talk with our attorney, who was a friend both of Crothers and myself, and he persuaded me to talk again with Crothers.  This time Crothers spoke in a very mollifying way, urging that we ought not to quarrel over such a small matter.  We were both very nervous.  What he said at the time gave me the impression that he had abandoned Crocker, but a day or two afterward he brought Crocker up to my office and introduced him to me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I asked Crocker whether or not he would support the graft prosecution if he were elected.  He evaded the subject, quibbled and dodged, while I became more insistent upon a direct answer.  He would not give it, and at last I lost my temper and dismissed him very curtly.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The interview was so stormy and I was so determined not to stay with the paper if I were to be forced to change my attitude, that Crothers finally yielded and I had my way.  The Bulletin supported Heney and Leland, the opponents of Fickert and Crocker.  Leland wrote for us a strong, unqualified endorsement of the graft prosecution, and I felt that he would be sincerely with us.</P>
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194.sgm:<P>So we went into the final battle of the graft prosecution.  It was fought bitterly.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Labor, because their Mayor, Schmitz, had been exposed by our investigation, was, I think, largely on the side of Fickert.  The bribery and graft and rotten city conditions that we had revealed did not greatly concern them.  It was too far removed from their own personal, immediate interests for them to become partisans in the struggle.  And the clear issues had been very skillfully clouded by Calhoun's efforts.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Of course, we believed that two-thirds of San Francisco would be in our favor.  We did not dream until the day of the election how greatly mistaken we were.  All through the campaign our meetings were largely attended.  Heney spoke to packed audiences in every district in the city.  There was great enthusiasm wherever he appeared, and he was working like three men in his enthusiasm for our cause.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The United Railroads made a wonderful campaign.  Money was poured out with no thought of cost.  The Post and the Oakland Tribune issued big editions which were left at every doorstep in San Francisco.  Women's clubs were organized and women went about among the people whispering the vilest scandal about Heney.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The United Railroads had a complete card index of every voter in the city, and toward the close of the campaign the betting at the poolrooms should have shown us that Fickert would win.  But we could not believe it; I refused to believe it.  I still had too much faith in the people to believe that such a calamity could possibly happen, that any city could actually vote for men who had been proved to be exploiting it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Up to the day of election I was certain that Heney would win.  Late in the afternoon, however, Burns and Spreckels came into my office, both of them white.  They had been out in one of the Mission districts where only laboring people lived, and they had been jeered from the sidewalks as they drove along in an automobile.  That convinced them that we had lost.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was a terrible blow, but we bore it as best we could.  The returns came in that evening, showing Fickert far in the lead.  Heney, I think, polled only 26,000 votes; Fickert beat him by ten or twelve thousand.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>FICKERT PLAYS HIS ROLE</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE election of Fickert was really the end of our hopes of convicting the men who had debauched San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Hardly had the election results been announced when Gallagher's brother came to me and demanded the $4500.  I had promised to pay Gallagher for the flats that Calhoun's men had dynamited.  I told him that we were not through with Calhoun yet.  The jury had disagreed at the one trial, but there were still other indictments, and other trials.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The bargain was that your brother was to stay with us till the case was definitely ended.  It has not ended yet.  When it does, I'll pay him the money."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Gallagher's brother left, dissatisfied.  It was too well understood that Fickert was to take program from the Calhoun crowd for him to have any faith in our ability to try Calhoun again.  I was still doggedly hanging on, hoping in spite of hopelessness, but he may have believed that I was about to break my promise.  I do not know.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I only know that a very short time after this interview Gallagher disappeared.  None of us knew where he was, or could locate him.  No doubt he received help from someone and went away and kept away until Fickert had carried through the Calhoun program.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Fickert went into court with a written document, obviously prepared for him by the attorneys for the United Railroads, asking the dismissal of the Calhoun cases, and they were dismissed.  All the other big defendants were also dismissed.  The graft prosecution was over.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It had been a hard three years' struggle, three years of incessant effort, battling against every kind of opposition.  It was over, and we had just one thing to show for it--Ruef in jail.  Of all the men who had sold and bought San Francisco and the people of San Francisco, we had put just one behind bars, in stripes.</P>
194.sgm:<P>To this end Heney had given three years of his life, of hardest possible work, without receiving one penny for it, paying his own living expenses from money he had saved.  He had been shot through the head and made deaf in one ear.  He finished the fight almost without money, with his practice gone, and nothing but defeat at the hands of the people of San Francisco to repay him for it all.</P>
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194.sgm:<P>He stood stripped, but still full of fight and fire, with a determination to succeed in life.  The contest, of course, had increased the national reputation he had begun to earn in the Oregon land fraud cases.  Though rejected by San Francisco, he had become a national character, which he still is, with a large following all over America.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Roy was ruined by the powerful people behind Fickert, who were interested in clearing Calhoun.  His restaurant failed, his skating rink failed, he lost all his money.  He had quite a large family on his hands, to which he was deeply devoted, and without money, ostracised by the business men who might have helped him, he became so desperate that he disappeared from San Francisco.  He went without a word, and not even his family knew where he was.</P>
194.sgm:<P>But he had not lost heart.  He knew what he was going to do.  He found employment in the East, and when he was established there he communicated with his family.  In time he made a moderate success, and later returned to California and became a prosperous vineyardist in the Santa Clara valley.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burns, who received all the credit for obtaining the confessions of the eighteen supervisors--the feat that made the graft prosecution possible--became the nationally known figure that he is today, and accumulated a large fortune.  So far as I know Roy has never received the smallest credit for his work, though he not only formed the plan which trapped the supervisors, but carried it out himself in every detail.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The failure of the graft prosecution was a bitter disappointment to me.  I had hoped that we would be able to reach the big men, the men at the top of the whole pyramid of civic corruption.  I felt that they were the men responsible for the shameful conditions in the city, and I was not satisfied that we had been able only to get Ruef, one of the less important men.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Still, I was glad that we had got him.  That was a small triumph.  I felt that our efforts had not been without some result, though we had failed in our real endeavor.  This feeling, hardly formulated, lasted in my mind for some time after the end of the graft prosecution.  Then one day in New York I learned something that had upon me the effect of an earthquake.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was standing in the lobby of the Waldorf-Astoria, idly talking with Burns and S. S. McClure, the publisher, when McClure happened to inquire, "Why did you fellows break the immunity contracts with Ruef?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Because he refused to play fair with us," I said.  And I told about the letter that Gallagher had carried from Ford <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"Hell, no!" said Burns.  "That wasn't the reason at all.  Where did you get that story."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You told it to me," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Oh, I never told you a story like that!  That didn't have anything to do with our breaking the immunity contracts."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You did tell it to me," I insisted.  "And I've told it to a hundred others.  What was the reason, then?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Ruef wouldn't testify that the money was paid him to use in bribing the supervisors.  He wouldn't testify that Ford had ever said anything to him about bribing.  He insisted on going on the stand and saying that the money was paid him as an attorney's fee."</P>
194.sgm:<P>A light burst upon me.  I remembered the message Louis Byington had brought me, from Ford.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Maybe it was," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Burns would not listen to it a minute.  He insisted that there must have been some verbal understanding that the money was to be paid as bribes to the supervisors.  Anyway, he said, such testimony from Ruef would have been ridiculous.  Of course the money was not paid to him as an attorney's fee.  Of course it was bribe money, even though they had called it an attorney's fee.  But Ruef had been stiffnecked, and had refused to swear that Ford had said a word to him about bribery.  For that reason the immunity contract had been broken, and Ruef had been sent to San Quentin for fourteen years.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I returned to San Francisco with a great deal to think about.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>MY ATTITUDE ON RUEF</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE longer I considered the story Burns had told me, coupling it with Byington's statement, and with other small incidents that now occurred to me, the more convinced I became that Ruef had not broken faith with us, but that we had broken it with him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It became apparent to me that Ruef had promised to tell the truth, in return for the promise of immunity, and that later, when he refused to tell more than the truth, the immunity contract with him was broken, and he was sent to the penitentiary.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This seemed to me a terrible thing.  Yet I could not escape the conclusion that we, who had been working to purify the city, had done this terrible thing.  And as I thought more about it, other things that we had done came into my mind, and I could not deny that in themselves they were not virtuous or praiseworthy acts.</P>
194.sgm:<P>But, I reasoned, we were intent upon doing a praiseworthy thing.  It was our intention to rid the city of men who were corrupting every nook and corner of it, who were linking up the lowest dives with the highest places in the community, who were selling the rights of our children, and the morals of our young men and women.  If, in the heat of our enthusiasm, we had done questionable things, at least we had done them for a good cause, and with a good end in view.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It came to me then that doubtless other men justified themselves in the same way.  I thought of Ruef in a new light.  I thought of him as a young man, just out of college, ambitious, clever, energetic, desiring to make a place and an honorable name for himself in the world's affairs.  I thought of the conditions he had found around him, of the price he saw other men paying for success, of the temptations pressing upon him to win popularity, honor, and acclaim by the only methods open to him, methods that he saw used by other men who were successful and admired.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was not Ruef who had made those conditions.  It was we, the people, who had made them.  We had made money our measure of success, careless how the money was acquired; we had been bad citizens, careless who controlled our city or how they controlled it, if only each of us was left alone to bend all his own energies toward getting wealth and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>We did not question the methods by which a man got money; we only demanded that he get it.  Even now, we were not punishing Ruef so much for what he had done as for being found out.  Other men, equally guilty, were walking abroad in the light of day, enjoying friends, success, popularity.  We had not altered the conditions in the least; we had not changed our standards of value; we had not ceased to flatter and fawn upon the man who had got hold of money, no matter how he got it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It came to me that Ruef, seeing these things, justified to himself the things he had done, just as I justified to myself the things that I had done.  I had been fighting for a clean city, but my motives had not been all pure, civic devotion.  I had not been unaware that I was making a big and conspicuous fight, that it was making me a big figure in men's eyes, and that if I won I would be something of a popular hero.</P>
194.sgm:<P>All these motives had mingled to give me one strong, burning desire--to win the fight.  It had seemed to me that many questionable acts were justified if they would contribute toward that end.  I knew Ruef and Ford and Calhoun and Schmitz were guilty; I wanted them convicted, and I had not greatly cared how it was done.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Now, thinking of Ruef, I believed I saw that he had felt the same way.  No doubt many motives had entered into his desire for success.  He had wanted to stand well in men's eyes, he had wanted to repay the affection of his people by making them proud of his achievements.  He had come from college, a young man, to find San Francisco what it was, and he had made his place in it, doubtless justifying himself at every step.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When I thought of Ruef in this way, I felt a change in my attitude toward him.  I thought of the years I had spent, doggedly pursuing him, with the one idea of putting him behind bars, and it seemed to me that I had been foolish and wrong.  It came to me that I should not have directed my rage against one man, human like myself, but that I should have directed it against the forces that made him what he was.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Those forces were not changed by our putting Ruef in San Quentin.  Money was still the only standard of success, the only measure of power, and it still is; great corporations still continued to control an apathetic people; all the influences that had made Ruef were still busy at work making more Ruefs.  We had done nothing but take one man from beneath those influences, leaving an empty place that another <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I began to feel that I should ask Ruef's pardon for the harm that I had done him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At last one day I went across the bay to San Quentin to do this.  It took all the philosophy I could summon to uphold me on the trip.  It was a difficult thing, after three years of bitter enmity, to go to Ruef and tell him that I was sorry I had taken the stand I had taken.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The thing I had come to do grew harder every moment while I waited for Ruef to come into the visitors' room at San Quentin.  The captain had sent a man to tell him that a visitor was waiting.  At last Ruef came in.  His eyes fell upon me, and went past me, looking for someone he thought wanted to see him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went over to him then and held out my hand.  I told him that I had come to see many things differently, that I was sorry for much that I had done, and I asked him to forgive me.  We talked for some time.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Later, when he had become convinced of my sincerity, he told me his own story of the breaking of the immunity contract.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIV</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>RUEF BREAKS DOWN</P>
194.sgm:<P>RUEF'S own story of the making and breaking of the immunity contract was this:</P>
194.sgm:<P>He had known nothing of the confessions of the supervisors until after he was brought back from the Trocadero and lodged in the Little St. Francis Hotel.  Then, the graft prosecution, feeling that it could not trust the sheriff as his custodian, Judge Dunne appointed an elisor, William J. Biggy, to take charge of him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In order to keep him entirely away from his friends and associates a big residence was rented on Fillmore street, and Ruef was lodged there under the constant supervision of the elisor.  No one was allowed to see him save by permission of the graft prosecution.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Here he was informed of the confessions of the eighteen supervisors.  He was shown that he was doomed, that his only hope lay in appeasing us by confessing his own share in the briberies.  Rabbi Nieto and Rabbi Kaplan were allowed to see him, and they pleaded with him to yield.  However, he steadfastly refused to do so.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"At last one day they told me that my mother was very ill, seriously ill, that she was calling for me.  They said I might go to see her.  Rabbi Nieto came to accompany me, and I was taken home.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"When I entered the room my mother was lying in bed.  She was pale and very much changed.  My old father was standing beside her.  She stretched out her arms, with tears pouring down her cheeks, and said, `Oh, Abraham, Abraham!'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The rabbi said, `You see what you have done to your mother, and to your gray-haired father.  It is because of what you have done that your mother lies here, as you see her now.  Will you not try to spare them further shame and disgrace?'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"My mother said, `Listen to our friend, my son.  Do as he tells you, for my sake.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Then for the first time I broke down.  I wept, and I said that I would do anything they wanted me to do.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"After that Rabbi Neito and Rabbi Kaplan saw Burns and Heney and Spreckels and made the arrangements.  I was to be given immunity if I would tell the truth.  So I told them everything.  I felt bitter humiliation as I did it.  I knew that I was betraying my old associates.  I was torn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"Then before the Ford trial, when the evidence was being arranged, I was told that I must testify that Ford had given me the money for the purpose of bribing the supervisors, that something had been said between us to that effect.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"This was not true.  Nothing whatever was ever said as to the way in which the money was to be used.  We spoke of it always as an attorney's fee.  The understanding between us was never put into words.  I assumed that Ford supposed that I was to use the money as bribes wherever it was needed to get the overhead trolley franchise; I knew that he did not pay me $200,000 in the belief that I would keep it all, myself, as my fee.  But nothing was ever said that indicated this understanding.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I was willing to go on the stand and tell the whole truth.  But I would not go beyond the truth.  I felt bitterly ashamed that I had gone so far as I had, and nothing would persuade me to go further.  I had betrayed my old associates badly enough, without swearing to falsehoods against them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I refused to testify that Ford had ever said anything in regard to bribing the supervisors, and for this reason the immunity agreement with me was broken, and I was sentenced to San Quentin for fourteen years."</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was Ruef's story, and I believed it absolutely.  I began at once, through the Bulletin, to plead for mercy for Ruef.  I wanted to tell this story fully and publicly, and base my demand for Ruef's parole on the ground of simple justice.  But I was unable to do so.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Crothers was unwilling that the halo which rested upon us for our share in the graft prosecution should be disturbed.  We had won considerable credit in the fight, we were looked upon as disinterested, ardent crusaders, incapable of any wrongdoing.  With all his power as owner of the paper, Crothers refused to allow this impression to be disturbed.  So I was obliged to make my appeal for Ruef on purely sentimental grounds.</P>
194.sgm:<P>My changed attitude on Ruef displeased all of my former associates in the graft prosecution.  Suddenly for me to ask for mercy for Ruef caused them to say, and perhaps to believe, that I had in a measure renounced the fight that was so dear to them all.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This was Judge William P. Lawlor's attitude.  Shortly after his last election to the superior bench he called to thank me for the help the Bulletin had given him in his campaign, and to say goodby.  He was about to go East to visit his old home.  During this interview the judge said with a good deal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I quite lost my temper at this remark.  "I have not been unfaithful," I replied.  "But now that I have cooled off, I can see and think more clearly.  I don't like many things we did to convict these men.  I approved of all of Burns' methods at the time, but upon reflection I can't help thinking that we sometimes turned just as sharp corners as the defendants and their detectives."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Mr. Burns is an honest man," said Lawlor with considerable heat.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At this I lost control of myself.  "You say he was honest?  I know he was not," I declared.  "You must remember Captain Helms, one of our witnesses in your court in the trial of Calhoun."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Very well," Lawlor replied.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You probably also know that Helms had been one of Calhoun's detectives doing his dirty work.  After he finished his testimony, Burns came to me with Helms and wanted me to get $10,000 for him from Rudolph Spreckels.  Burns then left me alone with Helms.  I asked him if Burns had promised him $10,000 before he testified.  Helms told me that he was living on a ranch in Humboldt county when Burns' men came to him and offered to pay his mortgage of $7500 and give him an additional $2500 if he would come to San Francisco and testify against Calhoun.  This was the felonious bargain that Burns had made and which he turned over to me to carry out.  I sent Helms away and later told Burns that if he had made such a promise he should fulfill it.  I would have nothing to do with it."</P>
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194.sgm:</DIV><DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXV</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>FIGHTING FOR RUEF'S PAROLE</P>
194.sgm:<P>WHEN I finished telling Lawlor the Helms story, he started with, "If Burns did that--"</P>
194.sgm:<P>He got no further.  In a frenzy, I shrieked at him, "How dare you say `If Burns did that!'  How dare you question what I am telling you occurred in this room?  Further than this, you committed perjury yourself when you made an affidavit that you were impartial and could give Ruef a fair trial.  Only a short time before you made the affidavit you told me in your room at the Family Club that the dirty blankety-blank should be made to crawl down on his hands and knees from the county jail and be put on trial on one of the big indictments.  I think I agreed with you at the time and rejoiced in your attitude, but I see it differently now that I have had time to reflect."</P>
194.sgm:<P>My voice carried far out into the local room and alarmed the reporters.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Of course, I was soon sorry for what I had said, and it is humiliating to tell it, but it is necessary in order to make clear the meaning I wish this story to have.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Lawlor left my room with foam on his lips.  He has never forgiven me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went on with my efforts to accomplish the parole of Ruef, but owing to Governor Johnson's attitude toward him I could make no headway.  I criticised the Board of Prison Directors for nullifying the statute that provided for the parole of any first offender who received less than a life sentence at the end of one year.  The board had made this law inoperative by passing a rule that each prisoner must serve half of his net sentence before his petition for parole would be given a hearing.  Prior to my efforts in Ruef's behalf this rule had been frequently broken, but as soon as I tried to make it apply to Ruef the board endeavored to live up to the letter of their rule, and only in rare instances violated it.  The power against me was too great to overcome.  The Governor insisted that Ruef should serve half of his "net" sentence, four years and five months.  Not a day was subtracted.  The fight to free him was long and bitter.  In the midst of it I was invited to address the Jewish Council of Women.  Having nothing in my mind but the Ruef case, I chose that as my subject, hoping against <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"I shall never forget the morning that Ruef started for the penitentiary.  All the bitterness and hatred of all the years of pursuit came into my mind to reproach me.  I thought, `Is this success, or is it utter failure?  Is this a real victory or an appalling defeat?  After all the years of mad pursuit, is this the harvest?  The imprisonment and branding of one poor, miserable, helpless human being.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"In imagination I followed Ruef on his journey to the prison.  I saw him being shaved, and photographed and striped and numbered, and degraded and humiliated.  I thought of his tears, and of his suffering, and of those who were near and dear to him.  And then it dawned upon me for the first time that my life, too, had been filled with evil; that I had done many cruel things; that I had at no time been fully fair to him, or to the others who were caught with him; that I had been striving, as he had, for success, that I had been hunting others in order to make money out of a successful newspaper; that I had been printing stories that made others suffer that I might profit; pandering to many low instincts in man in order to sell newspapers; that I had told many half truths and let many lies go undenied.  And when I thought of all that Ruef had done and of all that I had done, I could not see that I had been any better than Ruef, and so I asked for and pleaded for mercy for him with the best arguments that I could command.  I asked for his parole at the end of one year.  I urged it on the ground that it was a legal thing to do, that the State's statute provided for the parole at the end of one year.  In making the plea I encountered a rule of the prison board which forbade any prisoner applying for parole until he had served half of his net sentence.  That, according to my view, nullified the spirit of the law, and was, therefore, illegal and wrong.  The campaign went on for his parole.  I was met on every hand with protests and objections, expressions of hatred, and at best this, `He is not repentant.  Why doesn't he repent?'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I wonder if any of us has repented.  What is repentance?  Certainly no man can fully repent in prison.  Repentance must be free and voluntary.  The state can not force it by locking a man up in a cell for a term of years.  It can make him suffer; it can make him weep; it can make him a craven; or it can make him bitter and resentful and vicious, and make him desirous of wreaking vengeance upon society that is wreaking vengeance upon him.  But it can not give him humility, which is the essence of true repentance.  I wonder how many of those who are hating Ruef and who are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"You can imagine how Ruef and the other men who were indicted with him viewed us, who were in hot pursuit.  You can imagine that they knew enough of us to know that we were not what we pretended to be; that we were not fit to preach to them from a pedestal.  They knew that we were full of evil, too.  They knew that our lives had not been perfect and you can well understand how deeply they resented our self-righteos attitude toward them, and our abuse of them, and our hatred of them, and our intemperate invective and relentless warfare upon them.  They knew us because they knew we were human, and that it is human to err.  They knew that we were no better, and no worse, than the average human being, and while they perhaps were conscious that they had done wrong, they knew we were bad, too; but we had not been found out.  Perhaps our misdeeds may not have involved the breaking of the Penal Code.  But perhaps they had, and we had escaped detection.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Ruef and the others had merely been found out and caught.  Being found out was Ruef's chief crime.  I feel sure that if he had escaped detection, even though we were possessed of a general knowledge of all that he had done, he would still be honored and respected in this community.  So Ruef, after all, was punished for his failure, not for what he did."</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVI</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>PAT SULLIVAN'S STORY</P>
194.sgm:<P>AFTER Ruef and I became friends, I used frequently to to go to prison to see him.  On one of my visits, I had to wait a little while for Ruef, and while I was waiting Warden Hoyle handed me a typewritten article to read.  It was about the indeterminate sentence.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I read it through with great interest and asked him who wrote it.  He said it was written by a prisoner named Donald Lowrie, who had written many other things that were quite good.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At once I became interested in Lowrie.  I asked to see him.  The warden called him in from an adjoining office, where he was acting as bookkeeper.  He was in stripes.  I told him that I had read his article and thought he had great possibilities as a writer.  I said: "If you could get out of here I would take you on The Bulletin."</P>
194.sgm:<P>His face brightened.  "If you can get me out on parole, I will be glad to try writing," he said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I appealed to the Board of Prison Directors and they said they would be glad to parole him.  Thereupon, I visited Lowrie and told him he was going to be paroled, and I thought the best thing for him to do was to write an honest, straightforward story of his life in prison.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said that he would be glad to do it, except that his mother would object; that she was conventionally minded and thought that the family had been disgraced by his misconduct.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I told him to suit himself about that, but that I thought he could get rid of the stigma of the prison immediately if he were frank about himself.  Otherwise, he would continually be pointed out as an ex-convict.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He finally decided to write the story, under his own name, and when he came out of prison he had already written the first two chapters of his now famous book, "My Life in Prison."  I started the story as a serial in The Bulletin, and it made an instantaneous sensation.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Within two weeks after it started, Lowrie was the speaker before the Commonwealth Club at the Palace Hotel, and from that time he was in great demand all over California, speaking before women's clubs, in high schools and in churches.  His story was largely responsible for the prison reforms in California and also for the great changes in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>My faith in Lowrie recalled and reawakened an old interest I once had in prisoners.  Many years before when I was a police reporter on one of the city papers a patient in the Emergency Hospital asked me to write a letter for him to his wife.  The man was Pat Sullivan.  He was recovering from an attack of delirium tremens.  He was one of the strongest men physically I had ever seen.  He had a massive frame, broad shoulders and a thick neck.  His brow was low and his eyes were small.  His face was unpleasant, but I became interested in the story he told me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He was born in Ireland and when quite young came to America and became a stoker in the American Navy.  For many years he held this job and when he quit in San Francisco, he had saved $7000.  He wanted to go into business for himself, and being attracted by the red lights, he bought a dive on the Barbary Coast.  Women had never come into his life up to this time, but in the saloon he had bought there was a woman hanging around attracting other men.  She was 35, divorced, with a son 10 years old.  The court in granting the divorce had given the child to the father on account of the loose habits of the mother.</P>
194.sgm:<P>She was a dream of loveliness to Sullivan.  He fell in love with her at first sight, married her and established a little home of his own.</P>
194.sgm:<P>She drank a great deal and ran about with other men.  Sullivan took to drink and he soon lost his saloon.  He went to work as a laborer, still trying to cling to the woman he loved.  Frequently, she would disappear while Sullivan was at work.  He would come home at night, find her gone, the few sticks of furniture sold, the house empty and deserted.  Then he, too, would get drunk, lose his job, hunt her up, take her back and try it again.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was after one of these disasters that I found him in the city prison.  In the letter I wrote for him he pleaded with her to brace up.  He would get another job and they would again try to be happy together.  As the case interested me, and as I had a little influence with the Republican boss, I got Sullivan a job as a coal heaver on the State tug.  He went to work, rigged up a flat, got his wife back and tried it again.  In a few months, another crash came.  The woman was back "cruising" on the Coast, and Sullivan was in the gutter.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Coming down town one morning on the dummy of the California street car, the gripman said cheerily, "Good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>He answered my inquiring look with, "Well, we are all right again, Mr. Older.  I have got a little flat and some furniture and we are living together.  She has promised never to leave me again."  He was full of confidence.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I lost track of him for a year or more.  Meanwhile, I had become city editor of the Post.  One morning I picked up the morning paper to read that a ghastly murder had been committed.  A man had lain in wait for a woman on Pacific street, had jumped upon her from a dark doorway with a knife, and had cut her to pieces.  The man was described as a hardened, degenerate brute.  Arrested, he had shouted blasphemies, declared he was glad he had murdered the woman, that he would do it again if he had the chance.  The man was Sullivan.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went to the city prison to see him.  Long before I entered the barred enclosure around the tiers of cells I could hear him yelling, raving, shouting oaths.  He was walking up and down his cell.  He was a hideous-looking sight, his eyes bloodshot, the hair matted over them, and his jaw covered with unshaven beard.</P>
194.sgm:<P>As soon as he saw me he stopped raving.  He became quite calm.  The prison keeper allowed Sullivan to pass out into the corridor to visit with me.  We sat on a bench in an open space opposite the cells.  I asked him how he he came to do it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"She drove me mad," he said.  "I kept on forgiving her time after time, and she grew steadily worse.  Finally I decided to try it with her in the country.  Perhaps away from temptation she would do better.  I rented some land near Fresno with the idea of going into truck gardening.  She refused to go without her boy.  I went over to Oakland and stole the boy from his father and together we went down to the farm.  It was all right for a few months, but one evening when I came home from town I saw a man leaving the cabin.  I went in and found her dead drunk.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"In the morning when she was sober I told her we couldn't stay there any longer.  Country people wouldn't put up with that sort of thing.  I gave her some money and sent her back to the city.  I remained, settled up my affairs and followed her in a day or two, still hoping that we might make a go of it.  But she was off again.  I tried to find her, drinking hard while I was searching for her.  I finally found her in a saloon on the Barbary Coast, drinking with some men.  I asked her to come home with me.  And she laughed at me!  She threw back her head and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>We were sitting together on the bench while he said this, outside his cell in the corridor.  He had got this far when two or three nicely dressed ladies came in, with some religious tracts that they were distributing to prisoners.  One of them came up to us, and recognizing Sullivan from the story and pictures in the paper, she held out a tract to him, and said, "Poor man, aren't you sorry for the dreadful thing you've done?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Sullivan rose from that bench like a wild beast.  He yelled, "Sorry?  No, I'm not sorry.  I'm glad!  I'm glad!  I'm glad!  If she came back to earth I'd kill her again!  It's all over now but hanging me, and I want it done quick!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>It took five men to handle him and get him back into his cell again.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went to the office and wrote the story, and in it I told what I knew of Sullivan's life, of how many times he had forgiven the woman, and tried again to make a decent life with her, of how many times he had failed, and still tried.  It was a sympathetic story, and at that time, nearly thirty years ago, a sympathetic story about a murderer was practically unknown.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Sullivan made no attempt to escape hanging.  He went into court and pleaded guilty, and asked only one thing of the judge, that there should be no delay.  He was speedily hanged.</P>
194.sgm:<P>So when I came back to my interest in forsaken and suffering people, it was no new thing to me.  It was rather a return of a train of thought never wholly forgotten, now brought strongly to the surface of my mind by my experience with Ruef and Lowrie.  I became very much interested in prisoners, believing that they were only men like other men, who by some accident of fate had fallen upon harder lives than others.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The next few years were to alter considerably that point of view.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>CHARLEY THE STAGE ROBBER</P>
194.sgm:<P>LOWRIE and I organized a little relief bureau in the Bulletin office.  We aimed to help men who came out of prison.  We did help many.  We got positions for paroled men and for men who had done their time, and in that way I became acquainted with many of the desperate characters of California.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In the beginning, before I understood as much as I do now, I believed that the men in prison were just like the men out of prison, except that something had gone wrong in their affairs at some period of their lives.  Some accident had overtaken them, and they had been caught.  It still seems to me true that very few men out of prison have escaped doing something, at some time, that broke one of our many laws.</P>
194.sgm:<P>With other convicts, I felt that environment, drunken parents, or poverty, had caused them to drop out of line with the rest of us.  I felt that they had had no opportunity to develop into what we call normal human beings.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It took a long time for me to learn differently, and I still am not sure just what it is that causes men to become professional criminals.  But I am convinced that they are men who are in some way different from the rest of us.  They see life from a different angle.  There is something peculiar, some twist in their brains.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We can not see what it is, because men's brains are hidden by a cap of bone.  We can not look into a man's mind and see what is happening there.  We can see a club foot, for instance.  We can see that a club-footed man is not normal; we do not expect him to walk like other men.  But when a man has some abnormality in his brain we can not see that.  We expect him to act like the rest of us, and, when he does not, we punish him.  But that is because we do not understand.  We do not punish a club-footed man because he does not walk normally.</P>
194.sgm:<P>For many years I have known criminals intimately, watched and studied them.  Many of my first beliefs have been altered or destroyed in those years.  Now I can only say I do not understand their motives, I do not know what makes them what they are.  Until we do understand, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>The story of Charley comes to my mind.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I used to visit the prisons often and talk to the men.  On one occasion I was shown into the hanging room of San Quentin by Warden Hoyle.  A prisoner made a little talk to me, explaining the various trappings of death.  He talked in a mechanical, sing-song way, as if he had made the speech many and many a time.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He started with the rope, which was tied to a heavy weight.  He said this weight was kept at the end of the rope for a certain length of time to take all the elasticity out of it, so that when the man dropped throught the trap the rope would not stretch.  It would hold firm and crack his neck quickly.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He went from this rope to other features of the death process, explained the trap and how it was sprung by three men cutting three different cords, so that no one man knew that he had been the one to do it.  His matter-of-fact manner made the death scene very vivid and terrible.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was interested in him.  He was an old man, very fine looking, erect, strong, notwithstanding his age--he was nearly seventy.  I asked the warden who he was.  He said: "That's Charley.  He's in for life for murder.  He was a stage robber, one of the most desperate men among the criminals of California.  He's been here twenty-nine years."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I said, "My God, why isn't he paroled?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Warden Hoyle replied: "I wish you could get him paroled.  He's a fine character.  I would trust him with a million dollars to go around the world with it, and I know that he would keep his word and return when he said he would with every dollar intact."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I talked with Lowrie about him, and it turned out that he and Lowrie were great friends.  Lowrie was very eager to have him paroled.  I found this was quite difficult to accomplish.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley and his partner had robbed a Nevada county stage in the late seventies.  They had taken $15,000 from the strongbox.  The money was owned by a banker, who was a passenger on the stage.  When he saw the money in Charley's hand he could not control himself.  He leaped from the stage and tried to grab this money.  He threw his arms around Charley.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley's partner told him to stand back.  The banker continued to struggle with Charley, and Charley's partner shot him dead.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This banker had been a prominent man in Nevada City and the whole country rose in pursuit of the two men.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Charley went to a little town on the border line of Indiana and Ohio and went into business there.  He bought a small lumber yard, worked hard and prospered.  He became quite successful and was very popular.  In fact, he was spoken of as a candidate for mayor of the town.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Meanwhile, of course, the Wells Fargo detectives had not ceased to hunt him.  They had not been able to locate him, until his partner committed some other crime in St. Louis and was arrested.  While under the influence of liquor in his cell he told his cellmate the story of himself and Charley, and the cellmate, hoping to get some of the reward, notified the officers.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Chief of Police Lees of San Francisco and Wells Fargo's chief detective went on to the little town in Indiana.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXVIII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>CHARLEY MAKES HIS ESCAPE</P>
194.sgm:<P>CHIEF OF POLICE LEES and the Wells Fargo detectives came upon Charley without warning, in his little lumber yard in the Indiana town.  He was sitting in the office with some of his friends, and they were discussing his coming election as mayor.  The policemen entered and arrested him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>They loaded him down with forty pounds of iron, an Oregon boot and handcuffs, marched him to the little station, and brought him back to Nevada City for trial for murder.  The partner was tried also, sentenced to death, and hanged.  Charley escaped by one vote.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The juror who held out for life imprisonment was an old Confederate soldier, and it was the old sympathy between these comrades that saved his life.  The jury finally came over to the one man and agreed upon a verdict of life imprisonment, and Charley was sentenced to San Quentin for the rest of his days.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He had not been there long before he began to plan an escape.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At that time, while there was terrible cruelty in San Quentin, and horrible punishments were inflicted, the prison was loosely run.  Prisoners were not compelled to wear a complete suit of stripes, only trousers.  They might wear any kind of shirts, coats or hats that they had or could obtain.  They were also allowed to have on their persons whatever money they brought in with them, or could get after they were locked up.  Charley had about $165.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He noticed that a prisoner drove a cart out of the prison grounds down to San Quentin Point two or three times a day.  He also observed that when it was raining there was a tarpaulin over the cart, and by watching he found that the man at the gate looked under the tarpaulin about once in every four times the wagon passed him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley figured that if the driver of the wagon were a friend of his, he would have three chances to one of making his escape when it rained.  Charley did not know the man who drove the cart, but he found in the prison a man who wanted to escape and was willing to take a chance.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley unfolded his plan to this man, and said, "If you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>His friend said, "That's easy."  Immediately he began work on a beautiful inlaid cribbage board.  When it was finished he presented it to Director Filcher.  Filcher was delighted and said, "I'll make my wife a Christmas present of this.  Is there anything I can do for you?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well--yes."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What is it?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'd like to have the job of driving the cart."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Sure!" said Filcher.  "I'll get it for you in fifteen minutes."</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was done.  Then Charley got an extra pair of striped trousers, took them to the tannery and had them dyed.  He put them on under his striped trousers and wore them constantly.  His partner had only striped trousers, but he wore high boots, and had a raincoat that came to the top of his boots.  Charley said, "Now all we have to do is to wait for a rainy day."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The rainy day came.  It rained nearly all winter.  The state was flooded.  The first day that it rained heavily, Charley told his partner that they would make their attempt that day.  At the proper moment, he crawled under the tarpaulin, and they started.  On the way the driver said, "I'll have to stop at the commissary office.  They may have something to take down to the Point."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"My God!" said Charley from under the tarpaulin.  "Why didn't you tell me that?  We're caught."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, maybe they won't have anything."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley lay hidden in the cart while the driver went into the office.  The commissary did not have anything to send to the Point.  The driver went on toward the Point.  As they approached, he saw a guard, and reported this to Charley.  Charley was directing the escape from under the tarpaulin.  He said, "Make a detour.  Drive over to Mrs. Mahoney's and ask her if she doesn't want some coal."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Mrs. Mahoney did not want any coal.  Her suspicions were aroused immediately.  She said, "No, I don't want any coal, and you know very well I don't want any coal."</P>
194.sgm:<P>By this time the guard had disappeared, and Charley whispered, "Drive on to the Point."</P>
194.sgm:<P>When they reached it, they both jumped out and disappeared around the Point and along the bay shore, toward San Rafael.  They broke quickly into a barley field, wandered into some deep ditches, and covered themselves with barley and straw.  Within an hour they heard the guards on the hills.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The guards were out with guns, combing the country.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>They continued this for several days and nights, in the rain, without food.  They became desperately hungry, and one evening about 6 o'clock Charley made an attempt to get some food.  He walked toward a little cottage.  A woman was standing in the door, calling her husband to supper.  Charley could smell the hot food, and through the window he saw the table spread.  It drove him frantic, but he did not dare go nearer, for he knew that by this time the whole state was placarded with notices of a reward.  The desperate Charley was at large, the most dangerous man ever known in California.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He lay hidden until the husband went in to supper.  Then he crept to the chicken house, grabbed two chickens by the neck without letting them make a sound, wrung their necks and carried them off.  His partner had found a few potatoes in a garden, and together they went away with the chickens and potatoes.  In the brush they found an old tin can built a fire, and boiled the food.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley was so hungry that he drank from the can.  There was a scum on it, and he became deathly sick, with terrible pains.  He probably had ptomaine poisoning.  His partner, seeing his agony, said, "Well, Charley, I guess we better go into San Rafael and give ourselves up.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley was able to say, "Give ourselves up, HELL!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What can we do?" said the partner.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Die in the brush, of course."</P>
194.sgm:<P>All night and all the next day he was desperately ill.  The next night he was able to go on.  He had now eaten nothing for almost a week.  They made their way to Benicia, stole a boat and crossed to Port Costa.  Here they hid in the railroad yard among the freight cars.  In their wanderings, his partner had lost one of his boots in the mud, and the stripes on one trouser leg showed beneath his coat.  About 9 o'clock Charley walked up into the little town of Port Costa and went into a little shop, run by a woman.</P>
194.sgm:<P>There were several men standing around the stove, discussing the escape of Charley.  He walked bravely up to the counter and said, "I want a pair of 28 overalls and a pair of number 8 shoes."  The woman eyed him suspiciously and said, "You don't wear 28 overalls."</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XXXIX</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>CHARLEY'S ROMANCE</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE men in the little store had stopped talking and were looking at Charley.  When the woman said, "You don't wear 28 overalls," he thought that everything was ended for him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>However, he flipped a $20 gold piece on the counter and said coolly, "I don't know, but my sheep herder does."</P>
194.sgm:<P>His manner and the show of gold quieted the woman's suspicions, and she sold him the shoes and the overalls.  He also bought some cigars and lighted one before he left the shop.  In another place he bought a flask of brandy and some food and then went back to his partner in the freight car.  Charley took one swallow of the brandy.  His stomach settled at once, the last of the ptomaine symptoms disappeared, and he was able to eat heartily.</P>
194.sgm:<P>They took the midnight train to Sacramento, one getting on at one end of the smoker and the other at the other end.  Charley sat with a passenger.  They began to talk, and before they got to Sacramento became good friends.  The passenger invited Charley to his house in Sacramento to spend the night.  Charley said, "No, my wife will be at the station to meet me."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Arriving at Sacramento, he rejoined his partner and went to a saloon, bought a couple of drinks, and looked at all the papers of the last few days to see whether or not the detectives were on their trail.  They found they were not.  Then Charley bought a pistol, a .44, and some cartridges.  The partner said, "Let's go out and get a decent meal, Charley, for once."</P>
194.sgm:<P>In telling the tale, Charley said, "In a weak moment I consented.  We went into a restaurant on K street.  No sooner were we seated than two policemen walked in, stepped up to the counter and lighted their cigars, and stood there talking.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I got my .44 and laid it on my knee under the edge of the table and kept it there.  The policemen walked out.  When we finished our meal we went out and walked toward the railroad yard.  On the way I saw a policeman following us.  I drew my gun, hid it under my coat and turned and said to him, "Are you following us?"  The officer said, "Where are you going?"</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"I said, `We are going home'."  The officer walked away.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"That man never knew how close he came to Kingdom Come."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The two went on to the American river and located themselves in an old hut in a deserted vineyard.  They lived there all winter, going over to a little town occasionally, pretending to be wood-choppers, and buying such food as they needed.  In the spring they boarded a freight car, made their way to New Mexico and from there to Chicago, where they separated.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley went to work, saved his money, and finally went into business.  He accumulated $800 in money, and bought a gold watch and chain.  He was doing well.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In the family where he boarded there were two sisters.  One of them Charley fell in love with, and she with him.  She was a good girl, and pretty.  They became engaged to be married.  Charley was prospering.  He was going to build a little home and settle down.  They picked out a lot, and Charley bought it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Then his partner was caught in a robbery, and in order to save his credits in San Quentin he confessed to where Charley was, and Wells Fargo detectives arrested him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Up to this time Charley's girl did not know that he was a fugitive, but as soon as he was arrested he sent for her.  She came to the city prison, and there Charley gave her the lot, the $800 in money and the gold watch and chain.  He told her what he was, that he had to spend the rest of his days in San Quentin.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The officers brought him back to the prison, and when I saw him he had been there twenty-nine years.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When I undertook to get him paroled, I found it necessary to get some signatures in Nevada City, the district attorney and others.  There was still a great deal of feeling against him.  It was most difficult to get the signatures, but finally I managed to prevail upon them to sign, and Governor Johnson, as a Christmas present to me, paroled Charley.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The day he came out of prison he dined with Mrs. Older and me at the Fairmont, and in our rooms after dinner he told us the story of his escape.  I asked him about the girl in Chicago, what had become of her.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said that she had corresponded with him for eleven years, but that finally he had written her and told her that some day she might want to marry some good man, and that if he learned of this correspondence it might cause trouble.  So he had advised her to stop writing.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"That," said Charley, "was eighteen years ago, and since that time until you came into my life, I have never heard from a living human being."</P>
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194.sgm:<P>I said, "Were you very much interested in the girl?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes; we intended to marry.  I think I've got her picture here with me now."  He put his hand down in his inside pocket and drew out a photograph.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He thought he had it!  He knew he had it.  It was the only thing he did have, the only thing he had brought with him out of prison.  It was the picture of a gentle, sweet-looking girl.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He looked at it for some time, and mused, more to himself than to us, "Of course, she doesn't look like that now.  She's probably an old woman now.  That was thirty years ago.  I wish I knew what has become of her."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Mrs. Older and I had taken up our residence on a ranch in Santa Clara county, in the foothills near Saratoga.  It comprised 200 acres.  It was a fruit ranch, and there was a great deal of work to be done upon it.  It served a good purpose, because I could take men from prison down there and help them to regain their foothold.  I made Charley foreman of this ranch.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He was 71, but one of the strongest men I ever saw.  He plowed from daylight to dark, never seeming to tire.  He ran everything connected with the ranch, made all the purchases, paid all the bills.  He was perhaps one of the most exacting men in the way of honesty that I ever encountered.</P>
194.sgm:<P>There was a young man working on the ranch, not a prisoner, just an ordinary citizen, whom Charley soon discovered was what he called a petty pilferer.  He had no use for that young man.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"That kind of a fellow," he said, "would get a whole neighborhood in trouble.  He'd steal a whip, or a buggy robe, or some little thing."  His contempt was indescribable.  "If he'd go out and get some big money, I wouldn't mind it so much, but he's just a petty thief," he said with scorn.  "They're the curse of the earth."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley and I were living in a tent at this time, and I had a community box of cigars there; that is, I told Charley they were as much his as mine, and to smoke them whenever he wanted to.  He was working up on the hill one day, and he saw this young man smoking a cigar down in front of the tent.  He knew that it had come from this box.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said that he thought of a necklace that Mrs. Older had left on the table Sunday evening before she went to San Francisco.  He had put it in a bureau drawer under some clothing, and when he saw the young man smoking that cigar he thought of the necklace.  He rushed down to the tent, went in and opened the bureau drawer, and the necklace was there.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"It was a good thing it was," said Charley, "because if <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Whatever we may wish to believe, the criminal has a different psychology from the rest of us.  His motive may be the best in the world, but his mental reactions are not what we call normal.</P>
194.sgm:<P>As my acquaintance with these men grew, I observed many puzzling things.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XL</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>THE GOING OUT DINNER TO CHARLEY</P>
194.sgm:<P>THERE was another stage robber of a similar type to Charley, also in San Quentin, sentenced to life--Buck English.  He was a great friend of Charley, and also of Lowrie, and through them I became interested in Buck, and finally succeeded in getting him paroled.  He, too, went straight as long as he lived.</P>
194.sgm:<P>After he came out he told me much about Charley, for one thing, the story of the going-out dinner that the prisoners gave when Charley was paroled.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Buck English and Lowrie were roommates in the prison.  They had a room with a bathroom, had accumulated a good library, and were very comfortable together.  The reason that Buck was allowed to occupy this room was that he was not locked up at night.  He was in charge of the electric lights, and, as they might go out at any time, it was necessary that he be able to attend to them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>So when Buck heard that Charley was going out, he was in a position to celebrate the great occasion.  He got together his friends among the prisoners, and it was decided to give Charley a farewell dinner.  Each prisoner was detailed to get some portion of the feast by stealth from the prison kitchen; one man the roast beef, another the potatoes, another the soup meat, another the vegetables, another the pies, another the cigars.  Buck said, "I'll provide the drinks."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Having access to the kitchen at night, he took several pounds of dried apricots to his room, boiled them, squeezed them and bottled the juice.  In some way he got hold of some hops and put them in, with other things that I have forgotten.  After the job was done he corked the bottles, tied string around the corks to hold them in, as is done with champagne, and put them away for the great event.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The night before Charley was to go out the guests assembled quietly Buck's room.  At midnight, when all the prison was asleep, the feast began.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"It was some dinner!" said Buck in relating it.  "We opened up with soup, wound up with dessert, black coffee and cigars.  Then I stepped into the closet and brought in the bottles and cut the cord.  The corks hit the ceiling.  Then I poured our glasses full and served the drinks."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Standing, they gave Charley a toast, and the more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"Charley sat back then, lighted his cigar, and with the influence of the apricot wine or brandy, or whatever it was, he glowed and talked," said Buck, "more interestingly and fluently than he had talked in the twenty-nine years.  He told the story of his life, and of his different escapades.  It was a great evening.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The old man had never talked much in all the years, but now he opened up.  He told one story that might interest you.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"He had held up a stage in the Sierra Nevada Mountains and was in hiding until the trouble blew over.  Making his way through the mountains, he came across a cabin where the man was sick in bed.  There was a wife and several children without money and without food.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"So Charley went down in the night to a nearby town, stole a team, broke into a warehouse and loaded the wagon up with all kinds of food, bacon, ham, flour, sugar, coffee, and such other things as he thought they would need.  He took some calico for dresses, and some ribbons for the children.  He drove up with these things to the famishing family.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"In telling the story, he said that he felt they now had everything but money.  He was thinking this, when a Chinese vegetable wagon came along, and the peddler displayed $40 or $50 in gold.  When he had gone on, Charley went down a short cut through a gulch, intercepted the Chinaman, held him up, took the money and carried it back to the family.  He now felt that they were well provided for, and he could leave, so he went on his way through the mountains."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I tried frequently to find what started Charley off wrong.  He was not very clear himself on the subject, except that when he was a young man he enlisted in the Confederate Army and became a member of the famous Quantrelle Brigade.  Quantrelle headed quite a large body of very carefully selected men, good shots, good horsemen, keen, quick and ready for anything that came along.</P>
194.sgm:<P>They were marauders, carrying off whatever they needed for themselves or for other troops.  Charley liked the life, so when the war was ended he went right on with it single-handed.  He came West in '65 and became a stage robber.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He was a man of violent temper, but with great strength of character, and if he had been able to control his roving disposition he might well have become a king of finance.  He certainly had the ability.  As it was, I should say that of his long life fully two-thirds was spent in prison or as a fugitive from justice.  He must have spent nearly forty years in San Quentin prison.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Buck English joined Charley at our ranch.  Their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>A short time before Buck's death, when Charley was with him, he said, "Charley, I am going over the hill."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, what of it, Buck?  That's nothing.  Death is only a leap into the dark.  Why regret it?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I don't," said Buck.  "I don't care anything about that, Charley.  But I owe you $80, and I would like to get well and work long enough to get the money and pay you back.  I don't like to go out without doing that."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley took Buck's hand and said, "Buck, you know damn well you don't owe me a cent.  Forget it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Buck smiled and seemed happy.  A day or two later he died.  On the day of the funeral Charley appeared in my office with his best suit on a rose in his button-hole.  "Everything is arranged, Mr. Older.  Buck will have as good a funeral as any man ever had.  I've taken care of that.  The services are up at the undertaker's at 10 o'clock.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"It's 10 now," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I know," he said.  "I know.  I want to be a little late.  Some of Buck's friends have stuck a preacher in, and I can't stand preachers, so I'm going to hang around outside till he's through."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley saved his money and prospered.  He grew too old for farm work, but I got him some work in San Francisco that he could do, and he continued to save money, to live frugally and do well.  After he left the ranch he still had a very kindly interest in our affairs, and was very strict as to what kind of prisoners we allowed to come there.  He had a stern social code.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While he was still at the ranch I brought down a Mexican who had just come out of the penitentiary.  He was what Charley regarded as a petty larceny thief.  Mrs. Older and I had moved up the hill into the new house, and Charley had refused to take his meals with us there.  He said the new house was too stylish for him, and he preferred to cook for himself down in the cabin.  After the Mexican came, however, he appeared at our house for dinner.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We were surprised, and asked him why he had changed his mind.  He said, "Well, you know I can't eat with that Mexican.  He's a low-down thief; he's not in my class.  You know, over in San Quentin there are just as many classes as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>So after he moved to the city he still endeavored to care for the social standing of our guests, and in this connection some interesting incidents occurred.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLI</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>THE QUEERNESS OF FRITZ</P>
194.sgm:<P>AFTER Charley came to the city and went to work in his new position, a burglar who was living with me came to the city one Sunday for a little recreation.</P>
194.sgm:<P>During the day he got to drinking, and that evening he went to Charley's room to call on him.  Because he was drinking, he probably was more talkative than he would otherwise have been.  He told Charley that he had just robbed a woman of the underworld of six dollars.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley said, "Where are you going tonight?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Back to Older's ranch."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Charley was in bed. He sat up, and said, "Don't you DARE!  Don't you dare go to Older's ranch with stolen money in your pockets.  You come with me."  Charley leaped out of bed, dressed himself and made the burglar go with him to the woman and give back the money.  Then, with a warning, he allowed the burglar to come back to our place.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ordinarily, Charley was quite sympathetic with ex-prisoners; that is, if they were of his class, had never been stool pigeons, and had played the game according to his code of how it should be played.  He loved Lowrie, Buck English and Jack Black.  There was nothing he would not do for them.  Loyalty was very strong in him, and a kind of character that held him sternly to his own code of morality.  The difference was that his code was not the code of ordinary men.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In San Francisco he was highly regarded by everyone who knew him.  Finally, Governor Johnson pardoned him and he again became a citizen and a voter.  He never let it be known who he was, he kept his history secret from all his new friends.  More than a year ago he located in Texas and the last I heard from him he was well and happy.</P>
194.sgm:<P>During my acquaintance with Charley a number of things had vaguely disturbed my belief that men in prisons are just the same as men outside.  But it was perhaps Fritz Bauer who was first to shake that belief deeply.  Fritz certainly was not like normal men.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He was a big, fine, well built German, about 30 years old, apparently a perfect specimen of a man.  He came to my office after having been out of prison for a few days.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I told him that I had no place for him there, but he was so insistent that I said I would take him down anyway and let him work on the ranch roads, that I would give him $30 a month and board, although I really had all the help that I could afford.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He was very glad to go.  The first month he behaved so well that Mrs. Older felt that he was a really normal human being.  There did not seem to be the slightest kink in his mental makeup.  I said, "We can't be sure until the first pay day.  Let's see how he acts when he gets his money.</P>
194.sgm:<P>On Saturday night I paid him $28.  He had drawn $2 in advance.  I said to Mrs. Older, "Now, we'll see if anything happens."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Fritz was all right on Sunday, amused himself about the ranch.  On Monday night when I came down he was acting queerly--sullen and sulky, avoiding looking at me.  I asked him what was the matter, and he said, "Nothing."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The next morning he didn't come up to breakfast.  I asked the ex-prisoner who usually came up with him, "Where's Fritz?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>He said, tapping his forehead, "Brain storm."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went down to the farmhouse, found Fritz and asked him, "What's the matter, Fritz?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Nothing."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Oh, yes there is.  Has anyone hurt your feelings or wounded you in any way?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, why don't you go up to breakfast, and go on with your work as usual?  Of course, if you don't want to stay, I don't want you.  You're free to go; I'm not getting any advantage out of your being here.  But why don't you stay and have another month's pay?  Then you'll have $58, instead of $28.  You know you were near starvation when I met you, and another month will put you just that much farther away from a similar situation."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He would not answer.  I urged him again to tell me what the matter was, if anything had happened that he didn't like.  He finally said, "Well, I boiled up."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I didn't understand what he meant, and he made no further explanation.  However, he stayed at the ranch, and next day was eating as usual.  The following Sunday Jack Black came down to visit us, and when Fritz saw Jack, his face lighted up.  He knew that Jack would understand.  He said, "Jack, you know, I boiled up.  You know.  Don't you understand?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes," said Jack.  "I understand."</P>
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194.sgm:<P>Later, Jack explained to me that men in prison frequently get into a state of mind where they will not talk to anyone for a week or more, and sometimes will not eat.  Jack did not know what happened to them, but he knew that it was a common occurrence.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Fritz stuck it out for twenty days and then quit.  I brought him to the city with me and paid him.  A few days later, a policeman rang me up and asked me if Fritz Bauer had ever worked at my ranch.  I said, "Yes; why?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, we think he stole a suit of clothes from a ship."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Fritz was a sailor and had been down to the waterfront.  Being an ex-convict, of course, he had been suspected when the theft was discovered.  He may have been guilty.  I don't know.  At any rate, I got him out of the scrape.  Later he was arrested again, and I got him out again.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He met Jack Black one day in front of the Bulletin office and said, "The big fellow may have to get me out again," and Jack said, "You keep this up, Fritz, and the first thing you know the big fellow will stop getting you out.  Then you know what will happen.  You'll get twenty years when he gives you up."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Later I got Fritz a job as a sailor on a sailing vessel, and he seemed quite pleased.  This seemed to be the thing he needed.  Months afterward, he came up from Central America and brought us a parrot, which showed that in his muddled head and through all his boilings up, he remembered the kindness we had shown him.  Later in his voyages he sent postal cards to Mrs. Older and me, always remembering us on Christmas day.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I don't know what became of him.  I am still puzzled as to why he acted as he did.  He had a comfortable place on the ranch; he had all the chance that Charley had to save money and to make his way in the world; he certainly hated prison, and had no desire to be hungry and cold and friendless.  Nor was there anything vicious about him.  There seemed simply to be a flaw, something lacking, in his mind.  If we only knew what it was, we might have better knowledge of how to treat men who violate the law.</P>
194.sgm:<P>George was another ex-prisoner who increased my doubt of getting very far in determining why men break the penal code and seem unable to keep pace with the rest of us.  An old cellmate of George's interested me in his case.  He insisted that George was 100 per cent right.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I know him," he said.  "I lived in the same cell with him for three years, and we never had a cross word.  A loving husband and wife could hardly pass that test, locked up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I secured a parole for George and he came to the ranch to work.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>THE STORY OF GEORGE</P>
194.sgm:<P>GEORGE was about 40 years old.  He had a fine face, mild blue eyes, a gentle, kindly manner.  He loved little children, and his sympathies for suffering people were very keen.  He had never drunk liquor or used tobacco.  Yet he was a burglar and had served four terms in the penitentiary.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Mrs. Older was puzzled "Here's one of your prisoners that I can't make out," she said.  "That is, I can't understand how he ever did anything that would get him into prison."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The children at the ranch were very fond of George.  They did not know that he had been in prison.  We thought it best for them not to know.  It might prejudice them, and they might thoughtlessly tell the neighbors.  George was very sensitive about his past life.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One evening Mrs. Older and I returned from the city.  We asked the children how they had amused themselves while we were away.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Oh, we had such a good time!" they said.  "George showed us such wonderful secrets!"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What secrets?" we asked, full of curiosity.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"He took us up into the forest and showed us a beautiful little waterfall that he had built.  He called it his `little Yosemite.'  Then he showed us where he had planted a peach tree and an almond tree in the woods, and he told us lovely names he has for the trees and the little hollows.  He told us not to tell anyone because those are his secrets.  He goes there all by himself to look at them, and nobody knows.  We promised him we wouldn't tell, but we know you won't tell if we tell you."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The wild animals on the ranch all seemed to love George, and had no fear of him.  The beautiful bushtailed tree squirrels came to him when he gave a certain rap on the base of their favorite tree.  He always carried nuts in his pockets for them.  Nothing wild was afraid of him, and all the domestic animals loved him.  The cows and the pigs came to him whenever they could, and he petted them and stroked their backs.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One evening, as I was returning from the city Mrs. Older met me on the road.  She was very much excited.  Her hands were trembling.</P>
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194.sgm:<P>"George has turned queer," she said.  "You know you told me to tell him to turn the calf into the pasture; you said I had kept it in the pen too long and it was time for it to learn to eat grass.  I told George what you said, and he refused to do it.  I urged that you wanted it done.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"George said, `I know he wants it done, but I won't do it for him or for anyone else.  The calf might eat too much grass, take sick and die.'  He absolutely refused to obey me."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I asked Mrs. Older not to be perturbed, to let George have his way.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The cellmate who had said that George was 100 per cent right came to visit us, and one evening after dinner, as he was going down to the farmhouse to see George, I decided to let him discover for himself George's queerness.  I did not want his mind to be influenced by any prejudiced word from me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The pump was run by electricity, and forced the water up to the top of the hill above our house.  It furnished our house supply, and we used a great deal of it for watering the flowers.  Starting it involved no work, just pushing in the switch.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Next morning the ex-cellmate came to me and said, "Mr. Older, George is 90 per cent wrong.  I asked him to start the pump.  He said he wouldn't do it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`Mr. Older wants you to start it.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`I don't care if he does.  I won't.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`Why not?'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`Because they're using too much water on the hill.  They're using too much on the flowers.  Besides, they will wear out the pump.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`That's none of your business,' I said.  `They wouldn't live here without some flowers and if the pump wears out they will buy another one.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"George said, `I won't do what's wrong for Mr. Older or anyone else.  Supposing he were to order me to kill Frank, the horse.  Do you suppose I would do it?  Of course not.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`I would,' I said. `I wouldn't care what his reason was.  He might want to stuff the hide and put it in a museum.  I'd burn his house if he asked me to.  There isn't anything I wouldn't do for him.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"George said, `I won't start the pump.'  That was his final answer.  "I tell you," said his old cellmate, "George is off his head."</P>
194.sgm:<P>George stayed on until he expressed a desire to leave.  When he left I got him a job in the city.  Finally, he decided to go East.  He came down to the ranch to say good-by to us and his wild animal friends and to leave with us Bessie, his beloved dog.</P>
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194.sgm:<P>He was very sad.  He rapped on the tree and no squirrels came.  They had all been shot by thoughtless boys.  His chipmunks, grown older, did not come at his call.  He visited his "little Yosemite" and his secret places in the forest.  As we drove away from the ranch, his dog was sobbing on the hilltop and looking lovingly after him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He is in the East now, and every Christmas comes a box.  Everyone is remembered, everyone he ever met at the ranch, and Bessie, his dog.  Her present is usually a box of chocolates, of which she is very fond.  Bessie never seems to be her old self since George left.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I am sure the penitentiary never reached George's trouble.  It is beyond us all, and until we know why he is so different from the rest of us, the best we can do is to be kind to him.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>TIM O'GRADY</P>
194.sgm:<P>THERE were other characters as baffling as George.  Tim O'Grady was one of them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Tim walked into my room in the Bulletin office one morning early.  A linnet was perched on his shoulder.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'm just from Quentin, Mr. Older, and I brought my little friend with me.  Of course I know I can't keep the bird now that I am out.  I didn't like to leave him in the prison, and so I said to myself I'll give him to Mr. Older.  Perhaps his wife will like him.  So here he is."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The bird hopped from Tim's shoulder to my desk and chirped gaily.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"He's been a great comfort to me," said Tim.  "The only friend I had in the world.  I raised him from the nest, and trained him.  When I left the cell in the morning, the bird flew away over the wall and played all day with other birds, but as soon as the bell rang for the lockup he'd fly in and light on my shoulder and go to the cell with me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Take him to your home, Mr. Older.  I'm sure Mrs. Older will take good care of him."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Tim was a thief and had been in San Quentin twice.  Not at all a bad fellow.  Kindly, full of fun and mischievous.  For his pranks in prison he had spent a lot of time in the dungeon and in the "sash and blind," the old house of torture that Governor Johnson abolished.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What are you going to do, Tim?  Have you a trade?"  I asked.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes," he replied.  "I am a good waiter, and I guess I can get a job all right.  I'll go out now and hunt one and leave the bird with you."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I sent out and bought a cage and put the bird in it with water and food, and left it on my desk.  It remained there over night.  That evening I told the story to Mrs. Older and she urged me to bring it home.  When I entered my office in the morning I was startled to find the cage empty.  I thought some one in the office had stolen it.  But in a few minutes Tim entered, smiling, with the bird on his shoulder.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I was lonesome last night, Mr. Older, and hated to go to bed alone, and so I came into your room after you had gone and took him with me to my room.  But I won't do it again.  You take him home with you and then I can't."</P>
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194.sgm:<P>"How about the job, Tim?" I asked.  "You must get work, you know.  If you don't you'll be tempted and the first thing you know you'll be back in jail."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Tim assured me that nothing of that kind would ever happen again.  He was through with stealing forever.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Mrs. Older was delighted with the bird.  "Little Tim," she called him.  We soon grew very fond of him.  He sang two or three beautiful little songs and flew from her shoulder to mine in the happiest way.  At night he made his bed in a geranium pot.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Meanwhile Tim disappeared.  One morning I saw in one of the papers that he had been arrested for attempted theft.  I told Mrs. Older that evening that Tim was in jail.  While she had never seen him her sympathy went out to him because of his bird.  She looked over at Little Tim, through her tears, and said, "Poor Little Tim, your father is in jail."  Then she turned to me and said, "You must get him out."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The following day I called on Chief White and told him Tim's story and the story of the bird.  He sent an officer for Tim.  He was brought into the chief's room in handcuffs.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Take off those handcuffs," said the chief to the officer.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Now, Tim, sit down.  You are with friends who want to help you.  I'll get you a good job in a work camp in the mountains and will pay your way up there.  You may go tonight.  Try to make good, Tim," said the kindly chief, "and I'll do everything I can for you."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Tim was strong with promises, and no doubt he meant them at the time.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Chief," he said, with tears streaming down his cheeks.  "I'll never steal again, so help me God."</P>
194.sgm:<P>There were tears in the chief's eyes, too, as he sent for an officer to take Tim back to the city prison.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Let me go back to the jail alone, chief.  PLEASE do.  Let me go on my honor.  I want to show you I can be square."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The chief dismissed the officer who had come to take him, and Tim started down the corridor alone, with his head high and his chest out.  He went up in the elevator and gave himself up at the prison.</P>
194.sgm:<P>That afternoon he was free and on his way to his new job in the mountains.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I took the good news home to Mrs. Older.  My first words were when I entered her room, "Tim is out."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"So is Little Tim," she said.  "He flew out the window an hour ago.  I am sorry to lose him, but I am glad he is free.  He'll join the other linnets and make his way."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Tim held his job for a few weeks, but finally quarreled with the Chinese cook and had to quit.  He returned to the city.  I saw him a few times, and then he disappeared.</P>
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194.sgm:<P>A few weeks later I received a postal card from him sent from a little town in Iowa.  "Kind regards to you, Mr. Older, and thanks for your help.  Love to Donald Lowrie.  I shall be here for about four weeks.  Yours, Tim."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I showed the card to Lowrie.  He smiled and said, "He'll be there four weeks.  To me that sounds like `thirty days'."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Lowrie was right.  Tim had taken to stealing again.  Later we heard from him from other jails, and if he is alive is probably in one now.  He just can't keep step with the rest of us.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIV</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>CHARLES AUGUSTUS BOGGS</P>
194.sgm:<P>ONE evening about dinner time, Boggs suddenly stepped out of the darkness into our kitchen at the ranch.  Mrs. Older and I were away, and Lowrie and George were in charge.  The boys recognized Boggs at once as an exprisoner.  They knew him by the cut of his suit of prison made clothes and the squeak of his prison brogans.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I have walked over from San Jose," said Boggs.  "I haven't had anything to eat in three days.  I know Older will give me a meal and put me up for the night."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Sure he will," said Lowrie.  "He isn't here, but George and I will cook a dinner for you."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The boys started a fire in the cook stove, and began preparing the potatoes.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"By trade I am a cook," said Boggs.  "Let me get the dinner."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Lowrie and George stepped aside and Boggs soon had a fine dinner under way.  He ate ravenously, proving at least that he was very hungry.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When the dishes were washed and the kitchen swept, Mrs. Older arrived from the city.  Lowrie presented Boggs to her as a starving man they had just fed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Mrs. Older asked them to give him a room at the farm house, and they went away together.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In the morning, after breakfast, Boggs insisted to Mrs. Older that he wanted to do some work to pay for the two meals.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What can you do?"  Mrs. Older asked.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"By trade," said Boggs, "I am a locomotive engineer."</P>
194.sgm:<P>There being no locomotives on the ranch, Mrs. Older was puzzled.  "I have only gardening work here," she said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I am a professional gardener," said Boggs.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Doubting, but curiously interested in this new type of "nut," she said, "Very well, I want some flower beds made."  She pointed out the spot.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Boggs seized a spade and Mrs. Older left him at work and went about her own affairs.  Later he asked if she wanted the flower beds in the form of stars or heart-shaped.  She looked down at the garden and saw that he was making both designs, and executing them beautifully.  For the first time, she realized that he had done landscape gardening in prisons.</P>
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194.sgm:<P>She told him she wanted just the ordinary flower beds, and he quickly transformed them to suit her taste.  He was wonderfully skillful, and when I returned from the city that evening Mrs. Older excitedly related to me the story of Boggs and admiringly pointed out the work he had done.  He was undoubtedly a genius gone wrong.  She was glad to employ him permanently at good wages.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A few days later as I was motoring home, George, excited, stopped me at the barn.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The yearling steer has broken his leg.  What are we to do?" said George.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Knowing no answer, I made none, but drove on up the hill to the house.  I met Boggs coming down.  I told him my trouble.  He was smilingly calm.  "Don't worry, Mr. Older.  By trade I am a butcher.  I'll take care of the steer."</P>
194.sgm:<P>An hour or two later he showed me the carcass, hung on a tree, dressed as might be for a Christmas stall in a city market.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"If we leave it here over night, Boggs," I said, "the coyotes will get it.  We would better hitch up the team and haul it to the farm house."  The farm house was two hundred yards distant.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"It will not be necessary," said Boggs, buoyantly.  "I am a trained athlete; been in the professional game for years."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The steer weighed 240 pounds.  Boggs, 5 feet 6 in height, swung it lightly on to his back and trotted away with it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The plumbing in the house went wrong.  The nearest plumber was four miles away.  We consulted Boggs.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Don't distress yourselves," he said cheerily; "by trade I am a plumber."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He did the work easily, skillfully and quickly.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When the first rain came water in torrents poured down the hill, threatening the very foundations of the house.  Frightened, we summoned Boggs.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I have specialized in cement work."  In a day he had made a long cement drain at the back of the house, which carried away the water.  It is still in operation and in perfect condition.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The paint in the dining room needed retouching.  It was a delicate shade of gray.  Mrs. Older approached Boggs.  There was genuine doubt in the tone of her voice.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Mr. Boggs, you don't happen to know anything about painting, do you?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Four years' experience as an interior house painter and decorator," he said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Boggs mixed the paint, caught the shade exactly and painted the dining room.</P>
194.sgm:<P>One of the cows was taken ill.  Boggs was called in.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Late Christmas Eve we heard Friend, the dog, barking violently on the porch.  He barked so earnestly that we thought there must be some one in front of the house.  There was.  When we went out in the morning we saw stretched across the front of the house the words "Merry Christmas."  They were done in red toyone berries, surrounded by garlands of leaves gathered from the hillsides.  Boggs had done it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We were delighted, thanked him for the surprise and complimented him on his skill in lettering.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"It comes easy to me," he said.  "I am a woodcarver by trade."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Of course, we wanted Boggs to stay with us forever and ever, but we were sure he wouldn't.  He had been with us nearly two months, when he suddenly told Mrs. Older that he never stayed anywhere more than two months.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Why not remain with us?" she urged.  "We like you, and will pay you well.  You could save some money."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No," he said.  "I feel I must go.  I came up here to get away from pursuing women.  I thought if I grew a full beard, perhaps I wouldn't be so attractive and they would let me alone.  My beard is grown now, so I'll leave when my month is up."</P>
194.sgm:<P>We paid him, and parted with him sorrowfully.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Two weeks later little Mary, a member of our household, was reading a San Jose paper.  She suddenly looked up, startled.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Older, was Mr. Boggs' first name Charles Augustus?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes; why?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"He's in jail," said Mary.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Boggs had attached himself to a matrimonial bureau in San Jose in the role of a professional husband.  He had married a young woman with intent to swindle her out of a sum of money.  He got out of the scrape, but did not return to the ranch.  He was evidently ashamed of what he had done.  A few weeks later he called on me at the Bulletin office and wanted to come back.  In fact, he agreed to go down with me that afternoon.  But he did not appear.  There were two ex-burglars with us at that time, and Boggs, I reasoned, feared to face them, knowing that his was a kind of crime that even burglars would not forgive.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Some time later he wrote me from Lodi.  He was in jail on a serious charge.  He asked me to help him.  But his was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Boggs was one of the most useful men I have ever known.  He could do so many things that are necessary to be done, and could do them well.  He said he had been a woman's dressmaker and had taken prizes for his skill.  He had given us such proof of his ability in so many ways that we were in clined to believe that he could even make women's dresses.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Boggs has the misfortune to have some twist in his mental processes that he is in no way responsible for.  Whatever the twist is, it is as yet far out of the reach and beyond the knowledge of science.  Being abnormal, he does abnormal things, is judged by the standards of normal men, condemned and sent to prison to be corrected and made better by a stupid form of punishment.  In fact, a sick man is subjected to a treatment that would make a sound man ill.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Thus, in this cruel way, the human race slowly gropes toward the light.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLV</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>PEDRO</P>
194.sgm:<P>PEDRO had the soul of a poet and the habits of a sybarite.  His eyes were large, dark and languorous.  His skin was olive, his features regular, his figure perfect.  He dressed in excellent taste and simulated the air and manner of a young man of wealth and leisure.  He was 26 years of age when I met him in my office eight years ago.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I live in Los Angeles, Mr. Older," Pedro began.  "On the train coming north, I met a young man who is a very dear friend of mine.  He was in great trouble, and wholly trusting me, he told me his story.  Two years ago he forged a check, for a small sum, was caught, tried, convicted and sentenced to five years in the Colorado pentitentiary.  His conduct in prison was excellent.  His youth and good behavior appealed to the kindly warden, who paroled him after he had served one year of his sentence.  He was allowed to return to Los Angeles, where his father and mother lived.  They did not know he had been in prison, and he determined they never should know.  He got a job in a laundry and was earning $75 a month.  In a short time, a deputy sheriff in Los Angeles who knew he had been in prison and was out on parole called on him and threatened him with exposure if he didn't give him $60.  My friend paid the money.  A month later the deputy sheriff made another demand for money.  This he also met, although he had to borrow a part of the sum.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The deputy sheriff waited a month or two and made another demand for money.  This time he wanted $90.  My friend did not have it and could not borrow it.  He was desperate, and fearing immediate exposure, he passed a forged check and paid the man what he asked.  Feeling this new crime would soon be discovered, my friend bought a bottle of poison, removed all identification marks from his clothing and took the train for San Francisco.  Arriving here he intended to commit suicide.  His body would not be recognized.  It would be buried in an unknown grave, and his parents would never know what had become of him.  On the train he read a chapter of Donald Lowrie's story, `My Life in Prison.'  Believing that the editor who was publishing Lowrie's story might be sympathetic with him, he decided to call on him and tell him his story."</P>
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194.sgm:<P>"I am sympathetic," I said, "and will help him.  Where is your friend?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"It is my story," said Pedro.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I called in Lowrie.  I wanted him to hear the tale and pass his expert judgment on it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Pedro told his story over again to Lowrie.  Lowrie believed it and confirmed me in my judgment that I should go at once to Los Angeles with Pedro, expose the deputy sheriff, pay the man who had cashed the forged check, reinstate Pedro in his job, and give him a chance to make good.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Pedro agreed to go with me on the Lark that evening.  He had only $8 in money.  I told him he could pay for his berth with $5 and I would provide the railroad tickets.  We were to meet at the station in time for the Lark.  Meanwhile, Lowrie took Pedro over to the Argonaut Hotel and got him a room so that he could change his clothes.  He had a long talk with Pedro and was further convinced that he was telling the truth.  He took the bottle of poison away from Pedro and brought it to my office.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The train for Los Angeles left at 8 o'clock.  I arrived there at a little before 8.  I saw Pedro walking up and down the waiting room, immaculately dressed, his hands gloved.  He was carrying a very large and very beautiful bouquet of roses.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was staggered, but I had said goodby to Mrs. Older, and had also confided my errand to my friends, and I still hoped in spite of the bouquet of roses and the gloved hands, that his story might stand up.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I have your ticket, Pedro.  Come with me and buy your berth," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I am sorry," he said, "but I have spent the eight dollars that I had this afternoon.  I needed a new pair of gloves, and I am very fond of roses, and I couldn't resist this bouquet."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Still I didn't weaken.  I bought his Pullman, and we went to Los Angeles together.  Arriving there in the morning, I sent Pedro to the law office of a friend of mine and instructed him to remain there until he heard from me.  I would go first and settle with the manager of the taxicab stand at the Alexandria Hotel, who had cashed the bogus check.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I called at the hotel and introduced myself to the taxicab man.  I told him I had come from San Francisco to straighten out the Pedro transaction.  He stared at me as if he thought I were mildly insane.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What do you mean by straightening it out?" he asked.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I mean," I replied, "I am ready to pay the $90 Pedro owes you.  You probably know the boy was hard pressed for money."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Hard pressed, hell," he said.  "He's a crazy fool.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"Where did he go?" I asked.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Oh, nowhere in particular.  Down to Santa Monica and back and then around town, showing off.  He owed me $60 for the machine for two days.  He gave me a check for $90 and I, thinking he was the son of a rich man, out for a time, accepted the check and gave him $30 change."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Did he seem to have been drinking?" I asked.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No; he showed no signs of liquor.  He is just a damned fool."</P>
194.sgm:<P>So the taxicab man was the cruel deputy sheriff who was threatening with exposure a poor, hard working boy if he didn't pay him hush money.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was pretty weak by this time, but I took a taxicab from the hotel and drove out into the suburbs and found Pedro's brother.  I asked him if he knew what his brother had done.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes," he said, "the poor boy flooded the town with bogus checks and skipped out."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Pedro had bought the poison to be used as an effective part of the story he had planned to tell me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I rang him up at the attorney's office and told him what I had learned, and added that I could do nothing for him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I took the train home that evening feeling rather cheap.  A day or two later I received a bill for $90 from the Alexandria taxicab man.  He had evidently become convinced that I was insane.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I have never heard from Pedro since.  I suppose some prison warden has him and is solemnly at work trying to make Pedro walk straight by a form of punishment which would make a strong man stagger.</P>
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194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVI</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>DOUGLASS</P>
194.sgm:<P>WHILE visiting Donald Lowrie at San Quentin, a short time before he was released, Warden Hoyle showed me some excellent verse published in one of the magazines and written by a prisoner.  Douglass was the name signed to the poems.  It was not the author's right name, but it is the name I shall use in this story.</P>
194.sgm:<P>There was a rare poetic quality to the lines.  Douglass had interpreted the sufferings of men in prison in a very dramatic way.  He had caught the prison atmosphere as no other writer to my knowledge had ever done.  This perhaps was more clearly shown in a poem of his the warden showed me, "The Garden of Death."  It was a passionate protest against capital punishment.  I give it here:</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE GARDEN OF DEATH <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Safe bound by locking waters<LB>Within the Golden Gate<LB>A fortress stands, remote and gray,<LB>A prison of the state.<LB>The flanking walls that round it sweep<LB>A massive portal scars,<LB>Where warders grim their vigils keep<LB>With locks and bolts and bars.<LB>In old San Quentin's garden<LB>The morn is sweet with blooms;<LB>A little square in God's pure air<LB>Amid a thousand tombs;<LB>And in a fountain's mirrored depths,<LB>As you are passing by,<LB>Bare, mocking walls on either hand<LB>Seem reaching to the sky--<LB>And through that glimpse of paradise<LB>A youth was led--to die.</HI>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P> <HI REND="blockindent">Above San Quentin's garden<LB>The loophole grates look down,<LB>Beyond the walls and castled keep<LB>Where shotted cannon frown;<LB>And just within a little gate<LB>Along a steel-bound tier,<LB>In cells of death men hold their breath<LB>When unseen steps draw near,<LB>For death is in the air they breathe<LB>And in each sound they hear.<LB>Through old San Quentin's garden<LB>They led him to his doom,<LB>While rose and lily sighed for him<LB>An exquisite perfume;<LB>And in the prison yard beyond,<LB>Men spoke with bated breath,<LB>Of laws that mock the law of God<LB>And strangle men to death.<LB>Of men who send God-given life<LB>To godless, brutal death.<LB>O'er old San Quentin's garden<LB>A stately pine tree sighs,<LB>A lonely captive from the wild<LB>Where Tamalpais lies;<LB>And seated by its rugged trunk<LB>A convict, old and wan,<LB>Was reading from a little book<LB>He held in palsied hand:--<LB>And on the title page I read:<LB>"The Brotherhood of Man."</HI>
194.sgm:<P>At once I became deeply interested in Douglass and asked the warden about him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"It was drink that brought him here," said the warden.  "Running out of money while under its influence, he would forge a check for a small sum, pass it on a barkeeper and continue his spree.  When sober he is a fine, honorable man, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>Douglass was brought into the warden's office at my request.  He seemed very nervous and embarrassed and not inclined to talk.  He told me his time would be up in another month, and he intended to make a supreme effort to conquer the habit that had so wrecked his life.  I asked him to call on me when he was released and I would help him to make a new start.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He came directly to my office from the prison.  He was still very nervous.  His lips twitched, and his voice was broken.  But there was a resolute look in his eyes which reassured me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Are you quite sure you can hold out this time, Douglass?" I asked.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I am positive," he said.  "I shall never drink again."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"It will be a hard fight," I said.  "You have fallen so many times, you know, and each fall makes your will weaker."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"That is true, but this time I have the sustaining influence of a woman's love.  This woman has stood by me through two prison sentences, and now, I am going to make the battle for her sake."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Somehow his words convinced me and gave me perfect confidence in him.  Ordinarily I should not have been so easily convinced, because I personally knew how insidious the habit is and what tricks the mind would play in its behalf.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Douglass had no money.  He needed fifty dollars to tide him over until he could get a position.  A portion of the money he wanted to use to pay the expenses of a visit to the woman he loved.  I gave him the money and asked him to dine with Mrs. Older and me at the Fairmont that evening at 6 o'clock.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He did not appear at the hour appointed.  We both became nervous with fear that he had fallen.  I reproached myself for having given him such a large sum of money.  We waited hopelessly until 6:30.  He came at that hour, but was quite drunk.  We made the best of it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>He could eat nothing.  When we had finished we took him to our rooms and kept him in conversation for several hours until the effect of the liquor had partly passed away.  He promised me faithfully that he would go to his room in a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>Early on the following morning, however, he called me up on the telephone.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I am drunk in a Barbary Coast dive, Mr. Older," he said.  "I am right on the verge of sliding back into hell again.  Will you hold out your hand and help me?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>He gave me the location of the saloon.  I sent a reporter for him with instructions to rent a room, put him to bed and keep him there until he heard from me.  This was done.</P>
194.sgm:<P>That evening I had him removed to the Emergency Hospital.  He passed the night there.  Early the following morning I called on him.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Douglass," I said, "you are again heading straight for the penitentiary.  I know of only one way to save you.  That is to have you committed to the alcoholic ward of the Stockton asylum for six months.  I'll see that you have good treatment."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He was glad to go.  He left that evening.  Each Sunday Mrs. Older and I motored to Stockton to see him.  Meanwhile, Donald Lawrie had been paroled and was writing his story for the Bulletin.  Having similar literary tastes, Lowrie and Douglass had become fast friends in prison.  On one of our visits to the asylum, we took Lowrie with us.  Douglass was overjoyed to see Lowrie.  He was getting strong again.  In fact, he was quite himself, and being normal, the queer people he was compelled to associate with in the asylum began to affect his nerves.  He longed to get out and go to work.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In a short time after this visit, I secured a suitable position for him in a nearby dry town.  I had him discharged from the asylum as cured and took him to his new job.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Now, Douglass," I said, "this is your last hope.  You can't get a drink in this town, and I want your word of honor that you won't leave it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Of course, he solemnly promised, and meant to keep his word.  He did for several weeks.  He had made some kind friends in the town and they helped him to make the fight.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The evil day finally came.  He found a bottle of wood alcohol in the office where he worked and drank it.  The effect of it on him was dreadful.  For days it was thought he would become totally blind.  Fortunately, he recovered, resumed his work and kept straight for a short time.  He fell again, this time in a nearby city which he visited.  He spent all of his money, borrowed all that he could, sold his clothes and went down into the gutter.  But the battle was to go on.</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>LOVE TRIUMPHS</P>
194.sgm:<P>WE put Douglass on his feet again, only to find that his employer, disgusted, had discharged him.  But his friends paid all of his bills and this made the employer feel that he, too, should do his part, and he took him back.  He not only did this kindly act, but, in order to strengthen him in the fight, arranged to publish Douglass' prison poems in book form.  We all became very much interested in preparing the book, Lowrie especially so.  It finally made its appearance under the title of "Drops of Blood," Lowrie writing for it the following foreword:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"A strain of music, the scent of a flower, the ripple of running water--how often they sweep a chord, mute but yet attuned, awakening the pent floods of memory.  It is thus with this little book of verse, wrung from the silent gloom of unending prison nights--nights we spent together in the semidarkness of a forgotten world.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Behind the graven figures `19173,' I see you tonight as I saw you then, seated at the tiny deal table in our little eight by four cell, the dim light from the smoky oil lamp falling fitfully upon your face as you wrote in silence line after line, page after page--and I, lying on the narrow bunk against the wall, wondering what your were wresting from the Universal Source and setting into words amid such sombre surroundings.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"To all the art of `setting words prettily together,' as Ruskin puts it, you have added the color which can be drawn only from the fountain of hard experience.  May the message you are sending out find its way to the heart of the world, and there plant the seed of a deeper, larger and kindlier understanding.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"In those years of the past, we studied the theme of life together.  Today we labor apart, and yet together as before--you in your way and I in mine--to turn the thoughts of men and women toward the needs of the `proscribed,' seeking to redeem ourselves, and in so doing to encourage others."</P>
194.sgm:<P>It is rare, indeed, for a book of verse, even though of fine quality, to have a large sale.  Only a few hundred copies of "Drops of Blood" were sold.  Perhaps this fact discouraged Douglass.  He fell again.  It was then that the woman who loved him, and who had never lost hope, decided to marry <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>It was decided that Douglass' wedding should be held at Medora's home in the mountains, in the open air and under the trees that she loved.  Douglass at last was to be reclaimed.  This was to be be our triumph.  We all motored over for the great event--Donald Lowrie, Buck English, old Charlie, Clarence Darrow, Mr. Barry, Mrs. Older, and myself.  The aged father, and the other members of Douglass' family that had been estranged from him for nearly a quarter of a century, were there.  Douglass and they were friends again.  The simple ceremony under the trees was very impressive.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At last the young woman who had never lost faith, who had unfalteringly stood by while the man she loved served two terms in the penitentiary, was also to justify the faith he had in her when in his prison cell he wrote the "Open Road."  Here are the lines:</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE OPEN ROAD <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Where wends the road beyond these walls?<LB>I do not know--I may not see;<LB>But every hour its freedom calls<LB>And leads me, spirit free.<LB>So swift it sweeps in curving gleams,<LB>So clear beneath the sun and moon,<LB>It calls me from my work and dreams,<LB>At midnight and at noon.<LB>A clanging bell! The bolts fly back<LB>As each day brings its task anew;<LB>A purr of wheels--the looms' "click-clack"--<LB>I see--the road and you.<LB>To know this helpless, hopeless throng--<LB>This bar-bound death in life--the prayer--<LB>The muttered curse of nameless wrong--<LB>The silence of despair!<LB>And yet--a garden blossoms there<LB>That breathes of Omar's roseblown bower;<LB>And love's blood-rose set in your hair<LB>Perfumes my every hour.</HI>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Where wends the road beyond these walls?<LB>I know not whither it doth wend;<LB>But this I know: whate'er befalls,<LB>You're waiting at its end.</HI>
194.sgm:<P>She was waiting at the end.  And here in this lovely mountain setting the ceremony took place that testified to her faith and long devotion.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The happy affair over, we all returned to the city.  A day or two later the old father called on me at my office.  He tried to speak, but instead he wept like a child.  Becoming calmer, he said between his sobs: "You have saved a brand from the burning.  I cast him off, I turned him out of the house, and sent him away from his mother who loved him."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I told him I had only extended to his son the hand of friendship.  "It is as little as one can do, and as much as need be done in most cases," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes," he said, "I realize it all now when it is too late."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I assured him that it was not too late, that there were many years of happiness in store for them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The battle was not yet entirely won.  Douglass fell occasionally, but the distances between the bad spells were widening with the years.  He and his devoted wife often visited us at the ranch, and when Mrs. Older and I complimented him on how well and strong he seemed, he would look at her through his happy tears and say: "She has done it all."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Love has done it all for Douglass, as it would for all of us if we would only give it a chance.  It is the greatest force in the world.</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLVIII</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>HUGO AND RUTH</P>
194.sgm:<P>HUGO had the weakest face of any of the men who came to me from prison.  He had a receding chin and forehead and pug nose.  He had served a three years' sentence for passing counterfeit money.  His wife came with him and did most of the talking.  She was young, not more than twenty, and quite pretty.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Hugo, she said, was a fairly good musician, and if he could get a trombone and join the musicians' union, he would be able to make a living for them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Lowrie had acquired a small fund to be used for this purpose, and together we started Hugo on the way to making his own living.  His weak face, however, prevented me from having much faith in his making good.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I never saw Hugo again, but learned through Lowrie that he was not doing well.</P>
194.sgm:<P>More than a year afterward, a young, over-dressed woman called on me.  Her face was painted, and diamonds worth several thousand dollars glittered on her fingers.  The brand of the underworld was on her.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You don't remember me," she said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No," I replied.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"My husband and I called on you more than a year ago.  He was the one you bought the musical instrument for."</P>
194.sgm:<P>With difficulty, I recalled her.  She had completely changed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"What has happened?" I asked.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I have gone into a sporting house," she said.  "My husband left me to starve.  I stood by him all the time he was in prison.  I worked in Oakland as a waitress, earning very little.  I went over to the prison every visitors' day all the time he was there.  I was as faithful to him as a wife could be.  When he came out, I brought him to you, but even with the help you gave him, he could not make a go of it.  He took to drink, left me at home frequently without food.  Finally he disappeared altogether.  I was so disheartened that I didn't much care what became of me.  I am now in an uptown house and doing very well.  I have $1300 in the bank and $3000 worth of diamonds.  I'm all right now, I guess."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ruth mentioned the name of the house she was living in.  I had just been reading a wonderful life story written by a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>At 17, Babe chose the course that forever shut her out of the respectable world.  Once under way she went rapidly.  In her story she did not spare herself.  She told the truth, all of it.  In the course of her narrative, she gave a vivid picture of the horrors of her life in the house in which Ruth was living.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Let me read you a chapter out of a story I have here," I said to Ruth.  I took the manuscript from a drawer and began reading aloud.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Before I had finished, Ruth leaped to her feet and shrieked: "Stop!  Stop!  I can't hear any more.  It's all so horrible.  I never dreamed it was as bad as that."  Sobbing and almost hysterical, she left the room.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A few days later, Ruth called me on the telephone and asked for an appointment.  Her voice betrayed excitement.  I told her I would see her at once.  She came rushing into my office, out of breath.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The story you read me the other day has haunted me.  I have made up my mind to quit the life forever.  Thinking perhaps I had some dramatic talent, I went immediately to a school for acting and I am studying for the stage.  The manager tells me I have real ability and is very much interested in me.  He is going to cast me for a leading role in a comedy.  He wanted to know my address.  Of course.  I couldn't tell him.  I am still in that house.  I told him I lived in Oakland.  He asked me who I knew in San Francisco and I gave him your name.  He says he is going to ring you up.  I gave him my name as Ruth Maynard.  I was afraid he would call you before I could see you, and you would say you didn't know me."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ruth made rapid progress, and in two weeks the play in which she was cast for the leading part was put on at the naval station in a big hall with fifteen hundred young men as an audience.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Our little group accompanied Ruth to the island.  Donald <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>That night Ruth left the house, took an apartment by herself.  We all hoped she would succeed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>At about this time, Pantages was planning to put on a new one act play.  I succeeded in having Ruth employed in it to play a minor part.  She did well in rehearsal, the manager was satisfied, and her new career began.  The play ran two weeks at Pantages and then went on the circuit for several months.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I heard nothing from Ruth in the meantime.  When the play was dropped, she returned to the city and called on me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I noticed her lips were scarred.  I asked her the cause.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I took carbolic acid several weeks ago," she said.  "They thought I would die.  I was saved by a young physician who attended me.  He said my recovery was a miracle."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I couldn't believe her.  She told the story lightly and laughingly.  She seemed happy enough.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Why did you do it, Ruth?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Oh, I slipped once.  I became intoxicated.  It discouraged me and I wanted to die.  But I am all right now.  I have a little play of my own.  There are three of us in it, and Pantages is going to put it on.  I am to be the star.  You'll see Ruth Maynard up in the electric lights, Sunday night."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I couldn't reconcile her manner as she sat talking to me of her future with the attempt she had made on her life only a short time before.  I decided to disbelieve the story.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When her engagement at Pantages was ended, she took the play and the little company to New York.  It was an ambitious venture and ended in failure.  The money she had saved melted and the diamonds went to the pawn shop.</P>
194.sgm:<P>She had been educating her 12 year old brother and caring for a younger married sister whose husband was unable to support her.  She wrote me from New York that her play was a failure and that she was leaving for New Orleans to be with her sister, who had typhoid fever.  When the sister recovered, she brought her and her little girl to California with her.  She left them in Pasadena and came alone to San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>She called on me to tell me that she had gone back into the old life, and into the same house which she had left in such horror only a year before.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Why did you do it, Ruth?  You have talent enough to make a living on the stage.  You could have got a position.  Why didn't you ask me to help you?  I am sure I could have found a place for you."</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>"I was out of money.  I had to have $50 a month for my brother, and my sister is on my hands.  I was desperate for money.  I won't stay there long.  As soon as I get a little money ahead, I'll go back to the stage."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I did not hear from her again for three months.  I came into my office one day and found a note on my desk, saying, "Ruth Maynard called up.  She is dangerously ill.  She wants to see you."</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XLIX</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>TWO TRAGEDIES</P>
194.sgm:<P>I CALLED at the address Ruth had given in her telephone message.  It was a large apartment house in an uptown street.  I assumed that it was the sporting house to which she returned after her failure in New York.  I took the elevator and asked for apartment 64.  I pressed the button at the door.  A pretty, little 4 year old girl opened it.  I was shocked to find a child in such a place.  A woman appeared.  I asked for Ruth.  "She is very ill in bed," she said.  The woman took me to Ruth's room.  She was propped up on pillows.  Her face was thin and pale and her eyes seemed large and unnatural.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"This is a strange place for a little child," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ruth laughingly asked me if I thought I was in a sporting house.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes, I had thought so," I said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Well, you are not.  You are in a perfectly respectable apartment house.  This is my sister's apartment, the little girl you met is her child, and it was my sister you saw when you came in."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Ruth said she was better.  In fact, she was getting well.  She had been ill, dangerously so, for a month.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I had a nervous breakdown," she said.  "To deaden the remorse I felt for having returned to the life, I commenced taking morphine and cocaine.  I had always felt that I had too much sense to fall for the habit.  But I saw other girls around me taking it.  It did not show in their manner, or, so far as I could see, in their health.  Finally, I decided to try it.  It braced me up for a time, and I daily increased the doses, until I completely collapsed.  The doctor thought I would die, but I am too wicked to die, I guess."</P>
194.sgm:<P>I tried to cheer her by urging her to keep away from the drug, and when she was well enough, I would try to get her a place in a theatrical company that was then playing at one of the local theaters.  She agreed to make another effort, and before I left she had again become quite interested in life and expressed a hope that she might yet succeed as an actress, and break away from the life that brought her so near to death.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In a day or two I telephoned her that if she were well enough she could commence rehearsing for a small part on the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>Coming up from the ranch on Friday morning I read in one of the papers that Ruth had killed herself the night before.  She had made sure work of it this time.  In the midst of her dinner with her sister, Ruth suddenly left the table and ran into the bathroom.  A few minutes later her sister found her there dead.  She left a note saying that it would be useless to try to save her.  This time, she said, she had made sure to take a poison that no physician could overcome.  She was 23 years of age.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Babe, whose chapter had driven Ruth out of the life a year before, was also dead.  When I learned that she was writing her story, I wanted her to come to the Bulletin office.  I knew that Bessie Beatty could help her, not only with the writing of the story, but with her wonderful sympathy.  I neither knew her name nor her address, but I wrote her a letter and Mrs. O'Connor, the policewoman, delivered it to her.  This was the answer I received:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"My Dear Mr. Older:--I received your kind note through Mrs. O'Connor, and I want to thank you for your kind thought of me.  I have every confidence in you, but I can't possibly trust any living being further.  I can tell my story better and honester when I think I don't have to face any person who knows me.  Just put yourself in my place and honestly ask yourself if I am to blame.  If my story comes out people are bound to suspect, and what protection would I have if I went to your office and was seen?  You know we are a novelty even if we are shunned.  But, Mr. Older, if ever the time occurs when I can leave this life I will come to your office and see you if possible under some guise or another.  I never want to discuss it with any person or want to go where any person will know my history.  I have perfect confidence in Mrs. O'Connor, and if she fails me I don't think I would want to live.  If the time ever comes that I can see my way out it will be under her directions.  Miss -- has offered me a home with her, but I have had to refuse, as I once lived on charity and it is one reason why I am what I am today.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I am continuing my writing as you told me, and have let no person influence me.  No person except Mrs. O'Connor and Miss -- knows I am writing.  So I am perfectly safe.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"If you print my story you will be doing something for every young girl in San Francisco that even thinks of entering this life, and as I write my story something seems to be at my back urging me on.  I can't sleep nights thinking about it.</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>"Mr. Older, urge the people to leave us unfortunates alone.  We can't leave the life.  If they didn't have the traps could we poor rats crawl in?  And now we are in why make us squeal?  Mr. Older, we are done for.  But try to keep others out of the life.  Let the people who have the bringing up of children tell them the truth.  Tell the boy.  Preach to him as you would tell him not to kill.  Tell him not to go near a girl only as he would his sister.  Tell the girl what the life means.  Don't be afraid to preach it from the housetops.  We are the most miserable creatures on God's earth.  Talk about the black slaves!--free the white slaves.  If we are a necessity, then give us a crown of roses, for we are certainly martyrs--martyrs to men.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I have every faith in your loyalty.  Believe me when I say I thank you from the bottom of my poor heart.  Sincerely,<HSEP>BABE."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Shortly after Babe had completed her story, the life she was living began to undermine her health, although at the time she was only 22.  Mrs. O'Connor, the policewoman, was Babe's only woman friend.  She dearly loved Mrs. O'Connor and fully trusted her.  Mrs. O'Connor had the girl examined by a physician, who reported that she was far gone with tuberculosis.  Her life might be prolonged, the doctor said, if she were sent to the country and lived in the open air.  Mrs. O'Connor interested an Eastern woman in the case.  This woman had some money, and she was glad to provide means for Babe's care.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Together, the two women looked for a suitable place, and finally decided upon a farm near Napa.  The woman who owned it agreed to take her.  There was a tent on the place that she could occupy.  Mrs. O'Connor did not dare tell the country woman all of the truth about Babe's life, for fear she would not receive her.  She was merely told that she had made one false step, and the man who was responsible for the wrong had deserted her.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We learned afterward that the woman who received Babe could have been trusted to be kind to the girl if she had been told everything.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Babe was very weak when she arrived and rarely left her bed.  The kind woman from the East provided her with everything she needed and wrote her almost daily.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Suddenly, news came to Mrs. O'Connor that Babe was dead.  Mrs. O'Connor first learned of it in a letter written to her by the woman in whose care she had been.  The letter is here given:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Dear Mrs. O'Connor--It is with a sad and a very lonesome heart that I write to you and try and tell you about our dear child that has passed to a higher and better life.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>"I am so thankful for having had the chance of knowing and loving her, and to have been in the position to be able to return to God one of his little children, for she was well prepared to meet him.  She would lie for hours and never a word.  I always said she was praying.  I will try and tell you all that will interest you, for she loved you and the young lady who was so kind and good to her.  She never discussed her friends to me, only an occasional word; she was so quiet and close about everything connected with her.  You understand that she had been moved from the tent to the house ten days before she passed away, and was to go back to her tent the next day, before the fatal illness that had taken her from us.  We had moved her much against her wishes.  She did not want to come into the house, she so loved her tent--they are taking it down as I am writing.  We felt after the last hemorrhage that at any time she was liable to have another, so we were afraid to leave her alone; it was well we had insisted as it all happened for the best.  The last I saw of the child was last Sunday, as I was ill on Monday and unable to leave my room.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"When I saw her on Sunday she was very cheerful--all that worried her was to get back to the tent, and I had promised to ask the doctor on Monday--he being satisfied, she was going back the next day.  My nurse was last to talk to her on Monday evening about 9 o'clock, when she was playing cards.  Taking the cards from her, she fixed her for the night, leaving her door open so if she called she could answer.  The last thing, in fact, all she talked of that evening, was `When I go back home!'  She called her tent `home.'  She wanted to go early in the morning, as she had a letter to write and wanted to be back in the tent before writing it.  I awoke and called the nurse about 12 o'clock, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>"If she had recovered from this illness she would have been paralyzed, so God was good to take her.  Think how bad she would have felt to be in that position along with her other handicap.  On Friday morning I tried to get you on the wire; was unable on account of your being out of town.  I talked with your husband, and on his advice I have taken on myself all the arrangements to bury her.  I felt in your nervous state you were better not coming here and taxing yourself more than necessary.  You did all you could for her when she needed you.  We buried her on Friday afternoon.  We kept her home until she went to her last resting place.  I did not want to take her to an undertaker's parlor, so the early funeral, when I heard you were unable to come.  I was able to place your flowers on her casket--so peaceful--just a mass of flowers.  I was unable to get the violets Miss -- wanted, as the message came while we were gone with her.  May the child's soul rest in peace!  I will see that the violets are placed on her grave, so kindly tell Miss--.  I can not write much more, as I am not strong and these last days are telling on me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Now, Mrs. O'Connor, I want you, if you know of another girl like this dear child, I would like to help another just for her dear sake.  Maybe take her up here or help financially.  Please help me to help some girl for her sake and my own, for I feel I should try to do something for others, but my health being so poor I am not able to come in direct contact with them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I am going to send you a few trinkets and some pictures and books that were hers.  You will be better able to know what to do with them.  There are some clothes and things you will be able to give some one.  There were some letters she had in bed with her and a letter which came on Monday.  We burned them.  Mrs. O'Connor, I would like to hear from you after you read this, as I feel I should help some other girl again.  I must not learn to love them as I did this poor child, as I feel it too keenly.  God bless you, and pray for me."</P>
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194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER L</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>JACK BLACK</P>
194.sgm:<P>IN PREVIOUS chapters I have presented the stories of Fritz, George, Tim, Boggs, Pedro and Douglass as types of ex-prisoners who would best explain how I came to realize that many prisoners were in some ways different from ourselves.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Jack Black does not belong to that class.  He is in a class by himself.  That is why he is so interesting.  I first met him when he was a prisoner at the Ingleside Jail.  Before the fire Jack had been convicted of highway robbery and sentenced to twenty-five years in the penitentiary.  He had appealed his case to the appellate court.  The fire came in 1906, and all record of his case was burned.  After the fire there were so many things to be done more important than restoring the records of prisoners' cases that were on appeal that it was neglected.  As a result, Black lay buried and forgotten in Ingleside Jail.  When I met him he had been there seven years.  He had no hope at all.  He hadn't sufficient faith in the ultimate result of his appeal to take much interest in having the record restored.  He knew if the appellate court denied him a new trial there was nothing left for him but the rock pile at Folsom for twenty-five years.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In my first talk with him he told me frankly that his case was hopeless, and that he did not believe it possible for me or any one else to help him.  He had been sentenced by Judge Dunne.  I told Black that I knew Dunne very well, and that it was barely possible I might persuade him to let him go on probation.  I was willing to try.  Black did not discourage me, but I could see by his manner that he had no faith whatever.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I went direct from the jail to Judge Dunne's chambers.  In fact, I hadn't much more faith than Black had, but I thought I ought try.</P>
194.sgm:<P>When I suggested to Dunne in a tone of voice as casual as I could make it, that I thought he ought to let Black go on probation, he stared at me as if he thought I had gone suddenly insane.  I have forgotten the exact language used by the judge in making his reply, but I haven't forgotten that it was very forceful, emphatic, and in spots, picturesque.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I argued the matter for an hour, I told him I was sure that Black would make good if given a chance.  Mrs. Older <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>I telephoned the dismal news to Black at the jail, and he at once began preparations for his escape.  With the help of outside friends he succeeded and made his way to British Columbia.  He eluded the police for some months, but was finally caught and brought back to San Francisco heavily ironed.  He was placed in the city prison en route to Folsom, where he was to serve his sentence of twenty-five years.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Before he left, Maxwell McNutt, then a deputy district attorney in Judge Dunne's court, called on me and said that Judge Dunne had decided that Jack Black had done about time enough, and if he would agree to withdraw his appeal, and plead guilty in his court, he would let him off with a year or two.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I hurried down to the jail to tell the good news to Black.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"That's great," said Black, joyously.  "If I had known that, I would have come voluntarily from Canada, and paid my own fare.  A year or two!  Why, I can do that standing on my head."</P>
194.sgm:<P>We then had a long talk about crime and criminals, and I was so struck with Black's original observations and insight into human nature that I asked him if he wouldn't make a speech in the dock after he had received his sentence.  I could use it effectively in the Bulletin, which was at that time trying to modify the severity of the penal system.  Black replied that he would be glad to do so if I wished it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Write it this afternoon," I said, "and I'll call this evening and read it."</P>
194.sgm:<P>When I saw him that evening he had written only about three hundred words.  I read it.  "Isn't it rather stilted, Jack?"  I asked.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Yes; I know it is," he replied.  "If you don't mind, I'd rather not write it.  Just let me get up and ramble.  I am sure I can do better that way."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Accompanied by a stenographer, Mr. Barry and I went to court to hear the speech.  The judge sentenced Black to serve one year in San Quentin.  After the judge finished, Black arose in the dock with all the ease and grace of an experienced speaker, and talked quietly, most interestingly, for about ten minutes.  It was by far the best short speech I had ever heard.  It was published in the Bulletin that afternoon, and Black went to San Quentin.  He said he would gladly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>His speech had interested many people.  Congratulatory letters poured in on him from all over California.  Among those who wrote him was a well known San Francisco physician, whose home has ever since been Black's home whenever he was in the city.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In ten months Jack was released.  Two months were forgiven for good behavior.  That was five years ago last October.</P>
194.sgm:<P>From the prison he came to our ranch.  He had spent a great many years in prison, and had been severely punished, had endured the agony of the strait jacket, and other harsh methods employed by prison officials.  The life had left him pretty nearly a physical wreck.  His body was emaciated, his face thin and heavily lined.  But his sense of humor lived through it all.  His wit was keen and his humor delightful.  He soon became a favorite at the ranch.  We all liked him immensely.  He was one of the few ex-prisoners I had that would joke about his past.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We were building our house on the hill while Jack was with us.  He took the keenest interest in it and was busy every minute of his time in work that he could do.  After the floors had been laid, Mrs. Older said to him laughingly, "Mr. Black, I want you as an expert burglar to walk over the new floors and find the squeaks."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"In order to do that properly," Jack replied, "I'll have to take a lantern and walk on them in the night in my stocking feet.  You know there are squeaks in floors at two in the morning that you can't hear at any other time."</P>
194.sgm:<P>After the house was finished and we had moved in, we invited a couple of our city women friends to visit us.  The night they came a mighty storm blew across the hills from the southeast.  It was the worst we had ever experienced.  It was made more terrifying because the new house had not been tested by storm and wind.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Jack, who had been dining with us, was about to leave for his room in the farm house, when Mrs. Older, fearing that the storm might blow the roof off or pitch the house down into the gulch, asked him to sleep in one of the spare rooms.</P>
194.sgm:<P>We all went to bed filled with fear.  At about 11, just after we had fallen asleep, we heard a startling crash.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"There goes a window," I said.  "I rushed out into the storm.  The women were shrieking for Black.  It was their window that had blown away.  Black jumped through the open window into the court.</P>
194.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"Get a hammer and nails and a ladder, Jack," I said.  "And perhaps we can nail the window back in place."</P>
194.sgm:<P>He got the hammer and nails.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I don't need a ladder."  He went up on top of a pergola fifteen feet high like a circus acrobat.  From there he walked out on the narrow window ledge, balancing himself while I handed him the window.  He nailed it on while the women looked on admiringly.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The wind was blowing seventy miles an hour and in another minute it might have torn through the open window and destroyed that portion of the house.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While Jack was putting the hammer back in its place in the basement, I joined Mrs. Older in the living room.  We were both laughing.  "Isn't it great to have a porch climber about at a time like this?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I was just thinking the same thing," she replied.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The women were enthusiastic over Jack's skill and complimented him when he came in.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You people all go to bed," said Jack.  "I'll keep watch until morning."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The next day Mrs. Older said to Jack, "You were a hero last night, Mr. Black."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Was I?"  Jack replied.  "The night time is my time, you know."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Christmas morning, Marie, a French maid, and little Mary wanted to go to Saratoga, four miles away, to Christmas mass.  I said I would motor them over.  They both liked Jack very much.  They did not know he had been in prison.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"You come along, too, Jack," said Marie.  "You were born a Catholic."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"No," said Jack.  "I won't go.  A church is no place for a sinner."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Oh, come on, Jack," the girl pleaded.  "It will be a sin on your soul if you don't go."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Jack finally compromised by agreeing to go along and sit in the machine with me, outside the church, while the girls attended mass.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was raining a little, but we put up the top of the machine and talked and smoked comfortably.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I had been very much interested in the underworld story that had been running in the Bulletin, and I turned the conversation to that subject.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I don't like women of that kind," said Jack.  "None of them are any good."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I wouldn't say that, Jack.  They are a mixture of good and bad, like the rest of us, aren't they?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Perhaps I am prejudiced," said Jack.  "Years ago, I knew one quite well and liked her.  I called on her one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"I had only a couple of dollars in my pocket, but I knew where I could get more.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`I'll be back in an hour,' I said, and left her.  I got some money in the only way I could in those days, hurried back to the girl's room, and dumped it on the table.  There were $60 or $70 in the pile.  She knew it was a burglary.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`I'll cut this even with you,' I said, `and we'll get some food and a doctor.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`I think I ought to have more than half,' she said.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I looked at her in amazement.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`If you don't give it all to me,' she went on, `I'll call the police.'"</P>
194.sgm:<P>Just at this moment, Marie and little Mary came running from the church toward the machine.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"To cut a long story short," said Jack, "I left it all."</P>
194.sgm:<P>A prominent superior judge came on Sunday to visit us.  He had been there before, knew Jack quite well, believed in his reformation, and was at ease in his presence.  After luncheon we all sat together in the living room discussing crimes and criminals and groping about for some remedy.  Jack was giving us the benefit of his wealth of experience.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Suddenly the dogs began to bark.  There was an automobile coming up the hill.  Jack and I stepped out on the porch to welcome the visitors.  I peered closely at the driver and the occupants of the car as it approached the house.  I said to Jack, "They are strangers."  Jack's practiced eye made out the driver.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Oh, it's the doctor," he said, with a glad ring in his voice.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The "doctor" stepped out of the car.  "Mr. Older, this is Dr. Mack," said Jack.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I quickly recalled the doctor.  I had met him before in my office.  He was an old prison pal of Jack's who had made good.  His wife and young children were with him.  He escorted them all into the house and introduced them to Mrs. Older and the judge.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The conversation about prisons and prisoners was not resumed.  The talk became general, the judge showing the deference to the doctor that his title and honored profession deserved.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Finally the judge said:  "Doctor, I don't want to put Mr. Older to any unnecessary trouble.  Perhaps you wouldn't mind taking me in your machine and dropping me at the station."</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'll drive you home," said the doctor, with great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>"San Jose," said the judge.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"I'll take you there with the greatest of pleasure," was the doctor's polite answer.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Jack looked at me, his eyes dancing with the humor of the situation.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The judge took a seat next the ex-burglar, and they drove away, chatting together pleasantly.</P>
194.sgm:<P>As the car disappeared down the hill I asked Jack to tell me the story of the doctor's change in occupation.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"Justice," said Jack, "is a word that resides in the dictionary.  It occasionally makes its escape, but is promptly caught and put back where it belongs.  It was while it was making one of its short flights that Mack made his getaway.  He was a three-time loser, and was in again for burglary, and the cops had him right, with the goods on him.  Apparently there was no escape.  The district attorney told Mack that he didn't have a chance to beat the case, and advised him to plead guilty.  `If you do that,' said the prosecutor, `you may get off with five years on daylight burglary, as you were arrested about sundown.  If you fight the case the judge will be angry and he will construe it as night burglary and you will get fifteen years.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The difference between fifteen and five years appealed to Mack and he pleaded guilty.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"As soon as he had made his plea his lawyer hopped up and said:</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`Your honor, it was daylight burglary, and for that five years is the limit.'  This angered the judge.  He reached for an almanac, looked up the date of the crime and announced that Mack had been arrested five minutes after the sun had set.  Therefore, it was night burglary.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`But,' argued the attorney, `the crime had been committed prior to that time He had to get out of the house he had burglarized and walk several blocks to the point where he was arrested.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"This further angered the judge.  He told the lawyer to sit down, and proceeded to sentence Mack to fifteen years in the penitentiary.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The lawyer waited until the stenographer had taken down the court's language.  When he had finished the lawyer said: `You can't alter that record now, your honor.  You forgot to arraign him.  It's a felony to alter the record.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The judge realized he was caught.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"`If you'll give him five years I'll let him go over, but if you insist on the fifteen I'll fight you.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The judge was too angry to relent, and Mack was sent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>"`Jack,' said Mack to me, `that was a close call.  The lightning never strikes twice in the same place.  I'm through with stealing.  I am going straight.'</P>
194.sgm:<P>"He went to work, educated himself, studied medicine, graduated, and now has a practice of $5000 or $6000 a year.  I don't think he would have made it except for the help of the girl he married.  She stood by him and her love and devotion held him up."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Jack finally left us to go to work in the city.  He is still regarded as one of our family and he spends many of his weekends at our ranch.  He loves the place and regards it as his home, which it is, and will be until the end.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Jack has been reading my story and feels that my readers may get a wrong impression of ex-prisoners from the stories of Tim, Boggs and the other weak ones.  There are some really bad ones who make good, and as he regarded himself as one of the most hopeless that ever came out of prison he has written me the following letter:</P>
194.sgm:<P>Fremont Older, The Call-Post, San Francisco.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Dear Friend of Mine: I have been reading your story in The Call.  The last chapters, portraying the "nuts" that have ripened on your ranch, have got me so wrought up that I feel that I must express myself.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Your name is at the top of this letter, but I suspect I am writing to myself.  You may never get it.  It may prove to be one of those things we write after midnight and tear up after breakfast.  Your collection of "nuts" would not be complete without me and I want to sign up right here and now.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Your stories take me back seven years.  Do you remember our meeting at the Ingleside Jail, where you visited me at Lowrie's request?  You did not ask me if I were guilty, or if I wanted to go to work or if I thought I could make good You said, "What can I do?"</P>
194.sgm:<P>I told you that nothing could be done; that I was convicted of highway robbery; that I had committed the still greater crime of retaining a highway lawyer to object and obstruct, and delay the swift and sure processes of justice.  I told you I was plastered over with prior convictions; that the police hated me, not for the things I had done, but for not pleading guilty and saving them the bother of proving them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I told you the judge was sore, that the police were sore, and the jailers were sore, and that I was sore; that the whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>You said, "It looks pretty tough, but I'll try."  I've often wondered what the judge said when you approached him for me.  He probably thought you were crazy.  You did try and you learned that nothing could be done and told me so.</P>
194.sgm:<P>But your trying meant as much to me as if you had succeeded.  When you were unable to help me, I realized that it was tough indeed, and I said to myself: "Here's where I make them put another red line under my name," and so, with the help of friends from life's other side, I left the jail by the window--and began again where I left off.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Soon came the inevitable "pinch" and I found myself back in San Francisco.  You came again, saying, "What can I do?"  This time you did do something.  You got my sentence changed from twenty-five years to one year.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Dear friend, that one year, the minimum, stopped me, and whatever I've done in the way of redeeming myself dates from the day I got that one year.  It was the first time I ever got anything but the worst of it in a court of law.  When I first met you, my mind was closed against any kindly impulse.  I wanted no help except what I could take by myself.  When I came back from the year in Quentin, my mind was open.  I went to you, and then to your country place for six months.  It is the only six months of my life I would care to live over again.  Mrs. Older, little Mary, and yourself "eased" me away from the last bitter thought.  And one day when you said you had a job for me in town, I was surprised to feel that I rather liked the notion of going to work.  I had for twenty years been sidestepping work, not that I was lazy, but that there was "no class" there.  That's five years ago.  It did not take me long to learn working.  Now I like it and there isn't a day's work out of which I don't get a "kick."</P>
194.sgm:<P>Enough of this "I" and "me" stuff.  I must get to the point.  You have a big, true story with one hundred thousand readers.  Tell them all how to help the under dog.  They are willing, but they don't know how.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Policemen, prosecutors, judges and jurors are reading your story.  Tell them the time to start helping the so-called criminal is when he is arrested, not when he is released.  They will never get anywhere so long as the "cop" clubs them with his night stick and turns them in to a judge who finishes the job by giving them five, ten or twenty years in prison.  They are all wrong and they are making it worse.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This "crime" thing is just a boil on the social body.  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>Point out to them the value of probation, of paroles, of kindness and helpfulness to the fellow with a bow-legged mind.  And take another slam at the case of John Byrne--something might come of it.  But I doubt if it's well to make the point that he is innocent.  With the effort and time and money spent by you and James Wilkins and Theodore Roche, we could have got out half a dozen guilty prisoners.  Every day guilty prisoners are released on technicalities by the courts, but if you mention innocence, they bristle like badgers.  They can't be wrong.  From the copper on his beat to the Supreme Court, they are all infallible and incorruptible.  Give any of them the "right," "honest," or "square" test and he will show a triple X positive certification.</P>
194.sgm:<P>If you every try again to get a pardon for Johnnie Byrne, just remember that he is 45 years old.  Forget that he is innocent and that he has been in jail since 1906.  You ask for his pardon on the grounds of extreme youth and the Board of Pardons will let him go.  When I submitted proof of his innocence to the Board of Pardons three years ago, they held a sage and serious session and I said to you, "Byrne has a good chance of getting out."  Later, I learned that they had turned him down, and that the only thing the Board of Pardons wanted to determine was whether I was a lunatic or just an ornamental liar who ought to be locked up.</P>
194.sgm:<P>These have been five full years for me--a wholesome home and a nice little job.  It's true that I had to fight with my two fists to hold that job, but when you get one that way, you hold it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I called on the judge some time ago, the one who sentenced me.  He has traveled some himself in the last five years.  "What can I do?" he said.  I told him there was a boy in his court charged with robbery; that it was a tough case, but not so tough as mine had been.  I told him if he could consider favorably a motion for probation for the boy that I would get him a job.  The judge said, "I'll try to do something," and he did.  The boy is working now and reporting to me.</P>
194.sgm:<P>If there is a thought in this letter that will help you in your fight for the outcast, the ex-prisoner, the prostitute--take it and use it as only you know how.  They all love you and are for you, "chaps," "taps," and rawhide riata.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Sincerely,<HSEP>JACK BLACK.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Reconstructed Yegg.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I was once discussing criminals with a woman who is an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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194.sgm:<P>"For instance, you and I sit here enjoying our food.  If there was a starving woman at the next table, a starving woman right under our eyes, we could not eat.  We would have to give her our food.  Now, if there were starving people at the other end of this room, out of sight, and we knew of them, we would still be unable to eat until we had fed them.  Even though we did not see them, if we knew they were there, we would be able to visualize them, just as though we did see them.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"But over in Poland and Russia and Palestine there are millions of starving women and children right now.  We know it, but still we enjoy our food.  That is because, while we know they are starving, we don't realize it.  They are too far away.  It's good that we can't realize all the misery in the world, for if we could, no human brain could endure it.  We would go mad.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"The criminal has this same inability to realize absent objects and facts, but he has it in a greater degree.  He knows when he steals that he is doing wrong, he knows that he will probably be caught and sent to prison and made to suffer.  But he cannot realize it, any more than we can realize the sufferings of peoples on the other side of the world.  All he can see is something he wants, and all he knows is that he wants it.  He cannot realize anything else.</P>
194.sgm:<P>"That is what makes the criminal.  It is a mental abnormality, just as definite as a crippled arm, only we can't see it as we can see crippled arms."</P>
194.sgm:<P>It may be that this is the explanation.  I do not know.  I only know that in all my experience with criminals I have come to the conclusion that their minds in some ways work differently from the minds of what we call normal men.</P>
194.sgm:<P>So, while my original opinion about them has changed, it has changed only to increase my abhorrence of our system of punishment for crime.  We need the aid of science here.  Punishment--revenge--is not the solution of the problem.</P>
194.sgm:<P>THE BYRNE CASE</P>
194.sgm:<P>The case of John Byrne, referred to in the published letter of Jack Black, has attracted wide attention.  Although striking evidence has been disclosed showing Byrne to be an innocent victim of circumstantial evidence, he is serving a life sentence at San Quentin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>Byrne, who had lived in San Francisco many years, was a printer in Nevada at the time of the fire of April, 1906.  Soon after the disaster he came to San Francisco in search of the body of his father, who he learned had been burned to death.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Lodgings were scarce at that time.  Byrne had many friends in the south of Market street district.  One of them, Patrick Sullivan, proprietor of a saloon at Sixth and Brannan streets, offered Byrne a room in the back of his place.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Byrne was in this room one night soon after his arrival when two bandits held up a saloon diagonally across the street.  George O'Connell, a former policeman, who was in the place, opened fire on the robbers.  A fusillade followed in which O'Connell, one of the bandits and a third man was killed.  The other robber escaped.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Evidence since has shown that this man came to the door of the saloon where Byrne was staying and was rushed away by friends.  A search of the neighborhood was made by the police.  Byrne was taken from his room as the escaped bandit and charged with murder.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The only evidence against him was that he had a bandana handkerchief in his pocket.  Both of the bandits wore bandanas.</P>
194.sgm:<P>A jury returned a verdict of guilty and Byrne was sentenced to death by Judge William P. Lawlor.  His attorney, Theodore Roche, carried the case to the state Supreme Court, but admitted that there was grave doubt of Byrne's guilt.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Captain of Police Thomas Duke, who had conducted the investigation of the entire case, later made a statement admitting there was grave doubt of Byrne's guilt.</P>
194.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<HEAD>CONCLUSION</HEAD>
194.sgm:<P>AFTER having related many of my experiences of the past twenty-five years I should like to be able to say in this, the concluding chapter of my story, that from those experiences I had learned of some way to correct the wrongs and injustices that continue to menace our social life.  I can not, because I have gained no such knowledge.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Economists who have specialized in socialism, single tax or co-operation are sure they have solved the perplexing problem.  There is no ill that now besets man that Socialism will not cure, says the Socialist.  The single taxer is even more confident that he has the remedy.  The more ardent of them declare that single tax will not only bring about a perfect economic condition, but will rid the world of all contagious diseases.  Even measles, whooping cough and scarlet fever will disappear from the face of the earth.  I cannot help believing that they claim too much.  But even if one or the other of these social doctrines contained all of the curative properties that their advocates invest them with, the entrenched wealth that is opposed to any radical alteration of the present social system has sufficient power to make the approach to either one of them very slow, indeed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The change must necessarily be slow.  Man is prone to the belief that the way of the world into which he is born is the conclusion of all of the wise men of the preceding ages, and, as a result has become the fixed plan of the universe.  This conviction man will not easily surrender.  I used to think otherwise.  In the days of the graft prosecution I believed that the people once convinced that there was corruption in their government would take the same interest in correcting it that the merchant does when he finds his till is being tapped by a dishonest clerk.  I was soon to learn how slight the people's interest is in public affairs.</P>
194.sgm:<P>The campaign of reform made by Hiram W. Johnson as governor of California is a good illustration of this point.</P>
194.sgm:<P>While the graft prosecutors, after three years of work, only succeeded in putting one man in prison, it was evident that the exposures that were made had to some extent aroused the people of the state.  Encouraged by this knowledge a movement was inaugurated to destroy the political power of the Southern Pacific Railroad--a power that had controlled the government of California for more than forty years.  Johnson was the leader of this movement.  After his election as governor he soon learned how slow and hesitant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>This work accomplished, I became impatient to strike deeper into what I thought were the causes of an imperfect and unjust social system.  I was convinced that the remedies we were applying reached only to symptoms.  The real, underlying disease had not been attacked.  I wanted to hurry on, heedless of the knowledge we had all acquired that the people were slow moving and suspicious of new ideas hurled at them by those they did not fully trust.</P>
194.sgm:<P>My experiences in the graft cases had awakened in me a deep interest in labor.  I had been fighting the rich men of San Francisco, that is, the employing class, because as soon as Calhoun was threatened with punishment for his crimes that class stood almost solidly with him.  The street car strike, made to order by Calhoun, had naturally aroused my sympathies for labor, and brought me more closely in touch with their leaders.</P>
194.sgm:<P>In addition, I thought that an expressed sympathy with labor would sweep working men over onto the subscription list of the Bulletin.  I reasoned that they failed to support the paper more liberally because we had been antagonistic to them in the teamsters' strike of 1901.  I felt now that I had come to believe in their cause, that I need only convince them of my sincerity and they would stand loyally by me and help to make the Bulletin tremendously successful.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I held this idea for many years, but in time I found that the fact that a man belonged to a labor union did not change his nature or his psychology at all.  He was just a human being like the rest of us, controlled by motives as mixed.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I discovered further that labor would never have been in the position of the under dog, as it was, if laboring men had realized their opportunities and been a little more wide awake to their own interests.  If they had been able to stand solidly with men who believed in their cause and had the power to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>I found that the labor policy of the Bulletin did not bring us the circulation I had expected.  Working men bought the paper that amused them, or that published things that interested them, rather than the paper that stood for their cause.  But by this time I had become interested in the cause itself, regardless of whether or not it brought us circulation.</P>
194.sgm:<P>This led me into an attempted explanation of the background in the desperate crime of the McNamaras.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I tried to show that it was the culmination of many years of bitter fighting between labor and the steel trust, in which the International Structural Iron Workers had been forced to the wall, their unions defeated by the employers time and again, their wages forced down, and their cause defeated to the point that not even shops handling the by-products of steel were allowed to employ union labor.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was only when labor had been defeated in every legitimate attempt, and crushed to hopelessness, these particular men began in despair to use dynamite against the property of their enemies.  They used it at first in destroying girders and bridges and other beginnings of structures in which iron and steel were used, but as time went on and the fight became increasingly bitter and desperate, their rage finally culminated in the destruction of the Times building and the accompanying deaths.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It seemed to me that a blind outburst of murderous rage on the part of the public would not help this situation.  I felt that people should understand the background of this violence, if similar crimes were to be stopped.</P>
194.sgm:<P>Oppression beyond a certain point will always result in violence, and however great our abhorrence of violence, we do not stop it by increasing the oppression.  When steam pressure in a boiler goes beyond a certain point the boiler bursts.  No one wants the boiler to burst, but nothing is gained by heaping more fuel on the fire beneath it.</P>
194.sgm:<P>It was this attitude that I tried to make clear to the readers of the Bulletin.  I was bitterly condemned for not taking the same attitude that all the other papers took, and a feeling grew in San Francisco that I was a dangerous person.  This feeling has been further intensified by my activities in the Mooney case.  For months after the commission of the Preparedness Day crime I believed Mooney and Billings to be guilty.  I continued in this belief until I saw the Oxman letters.  They convinced me that at least Oxman was a suborner of perjury, if not himself a perjurer.  Upon investigating the testimony of the important witnesses I found it to be false.  None of the five people who were arrested for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>My resolute advocacy of justice in these cases was an outgrowth of an intense interest I had acquired through the years in prisons and prisoners, and in that practically unexplored half-world inhabited by men and women who had been cast out and abandoned as hopelessly bad.  Experience has convinced me that there are no wholly good nor wholly bad people.  I do not believe anyone starts out in life making a deliberate decision to be bad.  I am sure everyone prefers goodness to badness, but life puts a heavy strain and pressure on some of us, and unconsciously we find ourselves departing from the conventional standards set up by those whom nature, or the chance of birth, has favored.  Not one of us is pure white nor solid black.  We are a blend--a gray; rather a dark shade of gray at that.  I believe the worst of us are blindly groping toward the good.</P>
194.sgm:<P>I have said before I am not at all sure about remedies.  An intelligent, economic readjustment will help, but I cannot resist the belief that the ill-working of our social system is due to causes that are deeply rooted in ourselves.  Malice, hate, envy, greed and hypocrisy, and a desire to get even for wrongs--real or fancied--are deep-seated qualities that make it impossible for us to achieve a higher and a finer life.  The task of overcoming these persisting traits of character is a discouraging one, and it is a task that belongs to each one of us.  Constant vigilance and effort is necessary, even through a long life, to materially lessen these qualities in ourselves.  To make any progress at all it would require all of our time, and unless we loafed on the job we would have none to devote to the conduct of the other fellow.  If we undertook this struggle in real earnest we should soon discover in ourselves the same attributes we had condemned in our neighbor, and we should no longer judge, "leaving justice to God, who knows all things, and content ourselves with mercy, whose mistakes are not so irreparable."</P>
194.sgm:<P>The End.</P>
194.sgm:<BACK><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
194.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
194.sgm:<P>THE JAMES H. BARRY COMPANY, SAN FRANCISCO</P>
196.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-196</TITLE>
196.sgm:<TITLE>Report of the debates of the Convention of California, on the formation of the state constitution, In September and October, 1849: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
196.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
196.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
196.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
196.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
196.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>10-13893</LCCN>
196.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
196.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
196.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>REPORT</P>
196.sgm:<P>OF</P>
196.sgm:<P>THE DEBATES</P>
196.sgm:<P>IN THE</P>
196.sgm:<P>CONVENTION OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
196.sgm:<P>ON THE</P>
196.sgm:<P>FORMATION OF THE STATE CONSTITUTION,</P>
196.sgm:<P>IN SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>BY J. ROSS BROWNE.</P>
196.sgm:<P>WASHINGTON:</P>
196.sgm:<P>PRINTED BY JOHN T. TOWERS.</P>
196.sgm:<P>1850.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Entered according to act of Congress, by J. ROSS BROWNE, in the Clerk's office of the District</P>
196.sgm:<P>Court of the District of Columbia, 1850.</P>
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196.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>PROCLAMATION OF THE GOVERNOR,</HEAD>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Recommending the formation of a State Constitution, or a plan of a Territorial Government.</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Congress having failed at its recent session to provide a new government for this country to replace that which existed on the annexation of California to the United States, the undersigned would call attention to the means which he deems best calculated to avoid the embarrassments of our present position.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The undersigned, in accordance with instructions from the Secretary of War, has assumed the administration of civil affairs in California, not as a <HI REND="italics">military</HI>
196.sgm: Governor, but as the executive of the existing civil government.  In the absence of a properly appointed civil Governor, the commanding officer of the Department is, by the laws of California, <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
196.sgm: civil Governor of the country, and the instructions from Washington were based on the provisions of these laws.  This subject has been misrepresented or at least misconceived, and currency given to the impression that the government of the country is still <HI REND="italics">military</HI>
196.sgm:.  Such is not the fact.  The military government ended with the war, and what remains is the <HI REND="italics">civil</HI>
196.sgm: government recognized in the existing laws of California.  Although the command of the troops in this Department and the administration of civil affairs in California, are, by the existing laws of the country and the instructions of the President of the United States, temporarily lodged in the hands of the same individual, they are separate and distinct.  No military officer other than the commanding General of the Department, exercises any civil authority by virtue of his military commission, and the powers of the commanding General as <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The laws of California, not inconsistent with the laws, Constitution and treaties of the United States, are still in force, and must continue in force till changed by competent authority.  Whatever may be thought of the right of the people to temporarily replace the officers of the existing government by others appointed by a provisional Territorial Legislature, there can be no question that the existing laws of the country must continue in force till replaced by others made and enacted by competent power.  That power, by the treaty of peace, as well as from the nature of the case, is vested in Congress.  The situation of California in this respect is very different from that of Oregon.  The latter was without laws, while the former has a system of laws, which, though somewhat defective, and requiring many changes and amendments, must continue in force till repealed by competent legislative power.  The situation of California is almost identical with that of Louisiana, and the decisions of the Supreme Court in recognizing the validity of the laws which existed in that country previous to its annexation to the United States, were not inconsistent with the Constitution and laws of the United States, or repealed by legitimate legislative enactments, furnish us a clear and safe guide in our present situation.  It is important that citizens should understand this fact, so as not to endanger their property and involve themselves in useless and expensive litigation, by giving countenance to persons claiming authority which is not given them by law, and by putting faith in laws which can never be recognized by legitimate courts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>As Congress has failed to organize a new Territorial Government, it becomes our imperative duty to take some active measures to provide for the existing wants of the country.  This, it is thought, may be best accomplished by putting in full vigor the administration of the laws as they now exist, and completing the organization of the civil government by the election and appointment of all officers recognized by law.  While at the same time a convention, in which all parts of the Territory are represented, shall meet and frame a State constitution or a Territorial organization, to be submitted to the people for their ratification, and then proposed to Congress for its approval.  Considerable time will necessarily elapse before any new government can be legitimately organized and put in operation; in the interim, the existing government, if its organization be completed, will be found sufficient for all our temporary wants.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A brief summary of the organization of the present government may not be uninteresting.  It consists 1st, of a Governor, appointed by the Supreme Government; in default of such appointment the office is temporarily vested in the commanding military officer of the Department.  The powers and duties of the Governor are of a limited character, but fully defined and pointed out by the laws.  2d.  A Secretary, whose duties and powers are also properly defined.  3d.  A Territorial or Departmental Legislature, with limited powers to pass laws of a local character.  4th.  A <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:Superior Corut ( <HI REND="italics">Tribunal Superior</HI>
196.sgm: ) of the Territory, consisting of four Judges and a Fiscal.  5th.  A Perfect and sub-Perfects for each District, who are charged with the preservation of public order and the execution of the laws; their duties correspond in a great measure with those of District Marshals and Sheriffs.  6th.  A Judge of First Instance for each District.  This office is by a custom not inconsistent with the laws, vested in the 1st Alcade of the District.  7th.  Alcades who have concurrent jurisdiction among themselves in the same district, but are subordinate to the higher judicial tribunals.  8th.  Local Justice of the Peace.  9th.  <HI REND="italics">Ayuntamientos</HI>
196.sgm:<P>In order to complete this organization with the least possible delay, the undersigned, in virtue of power in him vested, does hereby appoint the first of August next as the day for holding a special election for Delegates to a general Convention, and for filling the offices of Judges of the Superior Court, Prefects and sub-Prefects, and all vacancies in the offices of 1st Alcade (or Judge of First Instance,) Alcades, Justices of the Peace, and Town Councils.  The Judges of the Superior Court, and District Prefects are by law executive appointments, but being desirous that the wishes of the people should be fully consulted, the Governor will appoint such persons as may receive the plurality of votes in their respective districts, provided they are competent and eligible to the office.  Each District will therefore elect a Prefect and two sub Prefects, and fill the vacancies in the offices of 1st Alcade (or Judge of First Instance) and of Alcades.  One Judge of the Superior Court will be elected in the District of San Diego, Los Angeles and Santa Barbara; one in the Districts of San Luis Obispo and Monterey; one in the Districts of San Jose and San Francisco; and one in the Districts of Sonoma, Sacramento, and San Joaquin.  The Salaries of the Judges of the Superior Court, the Perfects and Judges of First Instance, are regulated by the Governor, but cannot exceed, for the first, $4,000 per annum, for the second, $2,500, and for the third, $1,500.  These salaries will be paid out of the civil fund which has been formed from the proceeds of the customs, provided no instructions to the contrary are received from Washington.  The law requires that the Judges of the Superior Court meet within three months after its organization, and form a tariff of fees for the different Territorial Courts and legal officers, including all Alcades, Justices of the Peace, Sheriffs, Constables, &amp;c.</P>
196.sgm:<P>All local Alcades, Justices of the Peace, and members of Town Councils elected at the special election, will continue in office till the 1st January, 1850, when their places will be supplied by the persons who may be elected at the regular annual election which takes place in November, at which time the election of members to the Territorial Assembly will also be held.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The general Convention for forming a State constitution or a plan for Territorial government, will consist of 37 Delegates, who will meet in Monterey on the first day of September next.  These delegates will be chosen as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The District of San Diego will elect two delegates, of Los Angeles four, of Santa Barbara two, of San Luis Obispo two, of Monterey five, of San Jose five, of San Francisco five, of Sonoma four, of Sacramento four, of San Joaquin four.  Should any District think itself entitled to a greater number of Delegates than the above named, it may elect supernumeraries, who, on the organization of the convention, will be admitted or not at the pleasure of that body.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The places for holding the election will be as follows:  San Diego, San Juan Capistrano, Los Angeles, San Fernando, San Buenaventura, Santa Barbara, Nepoma, San Luis Obispo, Monterey, San Juan Baptiste, Santa Cruz, San Jose de Guadalupe, San Francisco, San Rafael, Bodega, Sonoma, Benecia; (the places for holding election in the Sacramento and San Joaquin Districts, will be hereafter designated.)  The local Alcades and members of the Ayuntamientos or Town Councils, will act as Judges and Inspectors of elections.  In case there should be less than three such Judges and Inspectors present at each of the places designated on the day of election, the people will appoint some competent persons to fill the vacancies.  The polls will be open from 10 o'clock, A.M. to 4 P.M., or until sunset, if the Judges deem it necessary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Every free male citizen of the United States and of Upper California, 21 years of age, and actually resident in the district where the vote is offered, will be entitled to the right of suffrage.  All citizens of Lower California who have been forced to come to this territory on account of having rendered assistance to the American troops during the recent war with Mexico, should also be allowed to vote in the district where they actually reside.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Great care should be taken by the Inspectors that votes are received only from bona fide citizens actually resident in the country.  These Judges and Inspectors previous to entering upon the duties of their office, should take an oath faithfully and truly to perform these duties.  The returns should state distinctly the number of votes received for each candidate, be signed by the Inspectors, sealed, and immediately transmitted to the Secretary of State for file in his office.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The following are the limits of the several Districts:</P>
196.sgm:<P>1st.  The District of San Diego is bounded on the south by Lower California, on the west by the sea, on the north by the parallel of latitude including the mission San Juan Capistrano, and on the east by the Colorado river.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2d.  The District of Los Angeles is bounded on the south by the District of San Diego, on the west by the sea, on the north by the Santa Clara river, and a parallel of latitude running from the head waters of that river to the Colorado.</P>
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196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>3d.  The District of Santa Barbara is bounded on the south by the District of Los Angeles, on the west by the sea, on the north by Santa Inez river, and a parallel of latitude existing from the head waters of that river to the summit of the coast range of mountains.</P>
196.sgm:<P>4th.  The District of San Luis Obispo is bounded on the south by the District of Santa Barbara, on the west by the sea, on the north by a parallel of latitude including San Miguel, and on the east by the coast range of mountains.</P>
196.sgm:<P>5th.  The District of Monterey is bounded on the south by the District of San Luis, and on the north and east by a line running east from New Year's point to the summit of the Santa Clara range of mountains, thence along the summit of that range to the Arroya de los Leagas, and a parallel of latitude extending to the summit of the coast range, and along that range to the District of San Luis.</P>
196.sgm:<P>6th.  The District of San Jose is bounded on the north by the straits of Carquenas, the bay of San Francisco, the Arroya of San Francisquito, and a parallel of latitude to the summit of Santa Clara mountains, on the west and south by the Santa Clara mountains, and the District of Monterey, and on the east by the coast range.</P>
196.sgm:<P>7th.  The District of San Francisco is bounded on the west by the sea, on the south by the Districts of San Jose and Monterey, and on the east and north by the bay of San Francisco, including the islands in that bay.</P>
196.sgm:<P>8th.  The District of Sonoma includes all the country bounded by the sea, the bays of San Francisco and Suisun, the Sacramento river and Oregon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>9th.  The District of Sacramento is bounded on the north and west by the Sacramento river, on the east by the Sierra Nevada, and on the south by the Cosumnes river.</P>
196.sgm:<P>10th.  The District of San Joaquin includes all the country south of the Sacramento District, and lying between the coast range and the Sierra Nevada.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The method here indicated to attain what is desired by all, viz: a more perfect political organization is deemed the most direct and safe that can be adopted, and one fully authorized by law.  It is the course advised by the President, and by the Secretaries of State and of War of the United States, and is calculated to avoid the innumerable evils which must necessarily result from any attempt at illegal local legislation.  It is therefore hoped that it will meet the approbation of the people of California, and that all good citizens will unite in carrying it into execution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Given at Monterey, California, this third day of June, A.D. 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>B RILEY,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Brig. Gen. U.S.A., and Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Official--H. W. HALLECK,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Capt. and Secretary of State</HI>
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196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PROCEEDINGS OF THE CONVENTION.</HEAD>
196.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 1, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In pursuance of Gov. RILEY's Proclamation of the 3d of June last, the Convention for forming a State Constitution for California, met in Colton Hall, in the town of Monterey, at 12 M. on Saturday, the 1st of September, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The following Delegates appeared and took their seats, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">District of San Jose</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">District of Monterey</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">District of Sonoma</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">District of San Joaquin</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">District of San Luis Obispo</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">District of San Diego</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. HALLECK, Kimball H. Dimmick, Esq., was appointed Chariman, <HI REND="italics">pro tempore</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. DIMMICK, Henry A. Tefft, Esq., was appointed Secretary, <HI REND="italics">pro tempore</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Whereupon, it appearing that a quorum was not present, on motion of Mr. HALLECK, the Convention adjourned to meet again on Monday, September 3, 1849, at 12 M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 3,1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by the Rev. S. H. Willey.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The minutes of Saturday's meeting were read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>THE CHAIR announced the receipt of a communication from the Governor, through the Secretary of State, transmitting the election returns from the various Districts of California, together with the names of the Delegates elected.  The communication was read by the Secretary of the Convention, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>STATE DEPARTMENT OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
196.sgm:<P>MONTEREY, SEPTEMBER 3, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Hon. K. H. Dimmick, Chairman of the Convention</HI>
196.sgm:<P>SIR: I have the honor to transmit herewith by direction of the Governor, all the returns which have been received up to this date, of the election of delegates in the several districts for the general Convention.  These papers are numbered from 1 to 51 inclusive.  As they are originals, and contain the vote for district and town officers, as well as for delegates to the Convention, it is hoped that they will be preserved with care, and returned to this office as soon as your honorable body shall have completed its organization.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It appears from the returns that the following regular delegates are elected from the several districts, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From San Diego</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From Los Angeles</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From Santa Barbara</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From San Luis Obispo</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From Monterey</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From San Jose</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From San Francisco</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From Sonoma</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From Sacramento</HI>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Joaquin</HI>
196.sgm:<P>But if only the votes polled on the 1st of August are to be counted, <HI REND="italics">i. e</HI>
196.sgm:<P>This question is left for the decision of your honorable body, which is deemed the proper judge of the election returns and qualifications of its own members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>As the relative population of the several districts has materially changed since the issuing of the proclamation of June 3d, calling for the election of delegates to this Convention, the Governor would respectfully recommend that additional delegates be received from some of the larger and more populous districts.  It should, however, be remembered, that, at the time of holding the election, (on the 1st day of August last,) many of the legal voters were absent from the middle and southern portions of the country; so that the number of votes actually polled, will not serve as a perfect criterion by which to judge of the true relative population of the different districts.  It is hoped that, by mutual concessions, all these questions may be amicably arranged, and that a spirit of harmony and good will may prevail in your councils.  You have an important work before you--the laying of the corner-stone of the State structure; and the stability of the edifice will depend upon the character of the foundation which you may establish.  Your material are good; let it never be said that the builders lacked skill in putting them together!</P>
196.sgm:<P>By order of the Governor:<HSEP>H. W. HALLECK,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Capt. and Secretary of State</HI>
196.sgm:<P>THE CHAIR stated that there appeared to be a question as to the regularly elected delegates from the District of San Joaquin.  It would be for the Convention to decide who were the members elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MR. SEMPLE observed that he would offer, as soon as he could put it in writing, a resolution accepting the whole vote of the district, and admitting the four delegates having the highest number of votes.  From the best information he could collect, he understood it to be a very fair and full election, notwithstanding it had been postponed form the day first designated, to a later period.  He presumed the principal object in view was, that the mass of the people should be fully and fairly represented in this Convention; and he trusted the House would pursue the most liberal course in admitting the additional members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MR. GWIN asked if the gentleman (Mr. Semple,) would introduce his motion in writing.  He had an amendment to offer.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MR. SEMPLE then submitted the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>MR. GWIN would move an amendment to the resolution.  To admit all of the members <HI REND="italics">now present</HI>
196.sgm:<P>MR. HALLECK was opposed to both the resolution and amendment.  He thought the difficulty might be obviated by the appointment of a committee of one delegate from each district, with authority to report to the Convention the number of delegates regularly elected in each district, and the names of the persons entitled to seats.  It was quite probable complete returns had not been received.  Additional returns to the Secretary's office might possibly come in during the day.  The only <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>MR. BOTTS was of opinion that the first question in the meeting of a Convention was, as to the certificates of election.  What certificate of election had been presented here?  He presumed none that could be so called, except the official communication of the Governor, which states that certain gentlemen, naming them, have been duly elected according to the official returns.  These gentlemen, and these only, have a <HI REND="italics">prima facia</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN then submitted his amendment to Mr. Semple's, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said that his colleague (Mr. Botts,) had suggested an amendment to the amendment proposed by him, having in view the appointment of a committee on privileges and elections.  With the permission of that gentleman, he would introduce the following as a substitute for the original amendment:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE, being the proposer of the original resolution, said he would withdraw it, and accept with pleasure the amendment last read.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN having no objection to the appointment of this committee, withdrew his own amendment.  He did not think, however, that the whole day should be lost in waiting for the report of the committee, and would therefore propose that the members present from the San Joaquin District, claiming seats, should be admitted to participate in the organization of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS asked his colleague (Mr. Halleck) what was intended by this resolution.  As it reads, it seemed to confound two very distinct questions.  Was the committee to report what number of regular delegates from each district were to be admitted, or supernumerary delegates?</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the resolution read, "the number of delegates."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS suggested that this matter be made the subject of two resolutions.  He deemed it important that the question should be divided as to the regular and supernumerary delegates, and would therefore make a motion to that effect.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK amended his resolution so as to read, "according to their recommdations as to the number to be received."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said that this was a matter involving a great deal of investigation, and would occupy a great deal of time to report upon.  It would be entirely impracticable for the Committee to report as early as three o'clock.  Another point: the question as to the District of San Joaquin should stand upon its own basis.  It should be decided one way or the other, and not considered in connexion with other district.  This would give rise to much confusion, and greatly retard the business of the House.  He was in favor of the appointment of a committee of one delegate from each district, or such a committee as might be deemed proper, to take this question alone into consideration, and report upon it to the House at as early a period as practicable.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD did not for his part see the object of having several committees.  It was most desirable that the Convention should organize at once and proceed to business without delaying from day to day the question as to what members were entitled to seats.  If in the first place one committee was appointed to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT said that the only districts upon which it was necessary the committee should report, were San Joaquin, San Francisco, and Sacramento.  In regard to all the other districts, he regarded the question as settled by the action of the people themselves, under the recommendation of the Governor's proclamation.  From none of those districts did it appear that there were supernumerary delegates claiming seats.  He would therefore move that the duties of the Committee be explicitly prescribed with reference to these districts.  He believed that two or three supernumeraries had been elected in the District of San Jose; but he understood there would be no attempt made by them to claim seats.  He regarded the representation made by the proclamation as fair and equitable, with regard to every district, except the three named.  He, therefore, thought it best that the Committee should be instructed to report the names of the regularly elected delegates from these districts, who were entitled to seats in the Convention, without reference to the other districts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said his colleague (Mr. Gilbert) was mistaken in one particular.  There were five delegates elected in San Diego, three supernumeraries and two regular delegates.  There was no reason why they, as well as the supernumeraries from San Jose, should not apply for their seats.  It was not probable they would, but the question ought to be decided in advance.  He believed there was also a supernumerary elected in Los Angeles.  He thought the resolution as it stood covered the whole ground, and hoped it would be adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT observed, that if such was the fact, it altered the case.  He was guided by the Governor's message in making the statement, and presumed a clerical error had been committed.  If San Diego claimed additional members, as well as the other districts, the resolution as it stood was correct and proper.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said that the two districts of San Louis Obispo and Santa Barbara had elected the same individual.  He would probably be here this afternoon, and would select from which district he would be received.  From the other district one of the supernumeraries should be chosen to fill his place.  That fact had influenced him in offering the resolution in its present form.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After some further discussion, Mr. Halleck's resolution was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. FOSTER offered the following resolution, which was unanimously adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, the reporters present were invited to take seats within the bar.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR then announced the following as the Committee on Privileges and Elections, namely:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Diego</HI>
196.sgm: --Henry Hill.  <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
196.sgm: --S. C. Foster.  <HI REND="italics">Santa Barbara</HI>
196.sgm: --P. La Guerra.  <HI REND="italics">San Luis Obispo</HI>
196.sgm: --H. A. Tefft.  <HI REND="italics">Monterey</HI>
196.sgm: --H. W. Halleck.  <HI REND="italics">San Jose</HI>
196.sgm: --J. Aram.  <HI REND="italics">San Francisco</HI>
196.sgm: --M. Norton.  <HI REND="italics">Sonoma</HI>
196.sgm: --M. G. Vallejo.  <HI REND="italics">Sacramento</HI>
196.sgm: --J. R. Snyder.  <HI REND="italics">San Joaquin</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Whereupon, on motion of Mr. GWIN, the Convention took a recess till 3 o'clock, P.M.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 3 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL, from the Committee on Privileges and Elections, reported progress and asked for further time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Whereupon, on motion of Mr. GWIN, the convention adjourned to meet again at 8 P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>EIGHT O'CLOCK, P.M.--The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL, from the Committee on Privileges and Elections, submitted the following report;</P>
196.sgm:<P>Your Committee, appointed by the President to ascertain and report to the Convention "the number of delegates which in their opinion ought to be received from each district, and the names of the persons which they deem entitled to seats according to their recommendations as to the number to be received," would respectfully report to your honorable body, that from the best information to be obtained by your committee, the district of San Diego is entitled to two delegates, Los Angeles, four; Santa Barbara, two; San Luis Obispo, two; Monterey, five; San Jose, five; San Francisco, eight; Sonoma, four; Sacramento, eight; and San Joaquin, eight.</P>
196.sgm:<P>And the following named persons having received the greatest number of votes in the respective districts, are entitled to seats, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Diego</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Santa Barbara</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Luis Obispo</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monterey</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Jose</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Francisco</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sonoma</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sacramento</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Joaquin</HI>
196.sgm:<P>And your Committee, having no further business before them, most respectfully beg leave to be discharged.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved that the report be recommitted to the committee, with instructions to report in favor of the admission of every member voted for by a respectable constituency, and now present, claiming a seat.  He would reduce his motion to a more definite form in writing.  According to this report the district of San Joaquin had but three members on this floor.  It was well known to the Convention, that the main communications of this country were of a character not to be relied upon; that San Joaquin was a very remote district; and that the members that were not here, could not get the information contained in the report in time to participate in the deliberations of this body.  It was to be borne in mind, that the district of San Joaquin was larger than any other portion of California represented by twenty members on this floor; that the number of voters was greater.  He did not wish to excite sectional prejudices, but when a manifest act of injustice was about to be committed, it was due to the occasion to speak his opinion freely.  One of the gentlemen excluded (Mr. Wozencraft) represented a mining district into which a large emigration was pouring through Fort Smith and San Antonio.  It was notorious that not less than twenty thousand American citizens were now on the road; and when you send that member back to inform his constituency that he shall not have a seat on this floor, it is proper you should look boldly in the face the consequences.  It was not for the native Californians we were making this Constitution; it was for the great American population, comprising four-fifths of the population of the country.  In this report that majority has been cut off from a representation in the Convention.  A member who had received upwards of eight hundred votes was to be excluded, while there were members on this floor who had received less than one hundred.  It was important that a Constitution should be sent forth which would meet the approval of the great majority <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, it is ordered by the Convention, that the report of the Committee on Privileges and Elections be recommitted, with instructions to report in favor of the election as a delegate of this Convention, of any person present who has received one hundred votes for the same, from any district in California where any election has been held, without reference to the day on which the election may have been held.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL explained the motives which had actuated the Committee in arriving at the conclusions contained in the report.  He did not believe the Committee with the facts before them could have come to any other conclusion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON gave a statistical synopsis of the number of delegates which he considered each district entitled to, with a view of showing that, on the basis assumed by gentlemen from the San Joaquin district, that of Sacramento was entitled to a larger representation than she claimed under the proclamation of Governor Riley.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, those persons excluded from their seats as well as those admitted to seats, by the report, were invited to take seats within the bar, and to participate in the debate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Messrs. Jones, Wozencraft, and Moore, thereupon entered and addressed the Committee in relation to their claims.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES considered it a poor privilege, to which every prisoner at the bar was entitled, that of defending his rights.  He did not come here to subject himself to the discretion of any committee.  He came to represent a large and respectable constituency, by whom he was elected, and he claimed a seat in this Convention, not as a matter of sympathy, but as a matter of right.  His reputation, he trusted was above committees.  In the absence of full election returns, he contended that the word of a gentleman who was deemed worthy of the confidence reposed in him by his constituents, was sufficient to establish his right to a seat in this Convention--at least until the arrival of complete returns.  Mr. Jones proceeded at some length to sustain the position which he had assumed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT entered into an elaborate defence of the grounds upon which he claimed a seat in this Convention.  He had been urged by his friends, much against his will, to submit his name as a candidate.  It was known to many present that he had received a large vote in the district of San Joaquin, there being no opposing candidate.  He came here knowing he had received this vote, and without the slightest expectation of being refused a seat.  He had subjected himself to a great sacrifice of time and money in the hope of being enabled to serve that constituency who had conferred the honor of election upon him.  He had agreed to every honorable compromise proposed by gentlemen on the floor, and had studiously avoided everything calculated to lead to dissention.  It was his sincere hope that the difficulty would be amicably adjusted, and that the House would proceed to business in a spirit of harmony and concession.  Whatever might be its decision he would abide by it, confident that it would be actuated by no other than just and patriotic motives.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE briefly defended his claim, stating that the vote which he had received in the San Joaquin district greatly exceeded that of his colleague (Mr. Wozencraft.)  He did not claim any priority or preference on that account, but merely submitted the fact, in common with others, to show that he did not come here without some ground for supposing that he was entitled to a seat.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS proposed to amend the resolution (Mr. Gwin's) by striking out all after the word "resolved," and inserting the following: "That the report be recommitted to the Committee with instructions to report what members, in addition to those returned by General Riley in his message, are entitled to seats in this Convention, with the facts and circumstances attending their election."  He had seen a good deal of parliamentary bodies, and had read a great many reports made by Committees, but never such a report as that made to this House.  It was, to say the least of it, the briefest and most unsatisfactory report that ever came under his observation.  The Convention was called upon to vote upon a question in which it was utterly in the dark.  This Committee was raised to ascertain the facts that the House might vote understandingly.  Where were the facts?  It was utterly impossible to vote without them.  A great mistake had been committed.  In every parliamentary body something must be taken for granted; some start must be given.  As a constituent part of every election, was the returning officer.  By the adoption of the proclamation of Governor Riley, the people made it their act, and as such it was in full force and effect.  General Riley was made, by the adoption of that proclamation, the returning officer of this Convention.  The judges and magistrates of election were directed to make sealed returns to the office of the Secretary of State.  The inference is conclusive, that the certificates of election were to issue from that department.  It has been done.  That statement has been made to this House.  According to all parliamentary usage, the persons therein named, and no others, have a <HI REND="italics">prima facia</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Messrs. HILL and TEFFT sustained the position taken in the report, and defended the action of the Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS finally withdrew his proposed amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Messrs. McCARVER, SHANNON, GWIN, SHERWOOD, HALLECK, BOTTS, PRICE, GILBERT, and SEMPLE continued the debate, chiefly in relation to the representation of the respective district which they represented.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT regretted exceedingly that the recommendation of the Governor in regard to the supernumerary delegates in the different districts should have brought about the confusion which existed in the Convention.  He was certain that the recommendation was made with the best motives, and having in view the best ends.  He was also satisfied that the Committee, in their report on this case, had done what they conceived to be their duty, and though he regretted that they had not given full statistics opposite the name of each delegate, yet the principal which they had acted upon, of taking the highest number of votes cast for each delegate, as the data upon which to base his election, was the proper one.  The only evidence of a right to a seat in this body, was the election returns, which alone could prove that the delegate claiming admittance had received a majority of the votes of his district over and above a certain number of men who had received a minority of those votes.  For the purpose of keeping the question at issue as distinct as possible, be submitted the following amendment to the motion of the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin:)</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN accepted Mr. Gilbert's amendment as a substitute for his motion, and moved to amend by adding the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN withdrew his amendment to allow Mr. Botts to submit the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That the district of San Diego shall be entitled to 2 delegates, Los Angeles 4, Santa Barbara 2, San Luis 2, Monterey 5, San Jose 5, San Francisco 10, Sonoma 4, Sacramento 15, San Joaquin 15.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A debate of considerable length here arose in relation to the representation of the different districts, in which Messrs. GWIN, McCARVER, SHANNON, SHERWOOD,</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The previous question was called, but the House refused to sustain the call.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment offered by Mr. Botts, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the resolution of Mr. Gilbert, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, so much of the report of the Committee as was not included in the resolution of Mr. Gilbert was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then adjourned to 9 A.M. to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 4, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  The minutes of yesterday were read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the roll would be called according to the communication of the Secretary of State, the delegates therein mentioned being those entitled to seats according to the message of Governor Riley.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that he came so near the mark last night, that he was encouraged to let fly another shaft at the target of reconciliation.  He propesed to move the reconsideration of the vote of last night, by which the amendment of Mr. Gilbert was adopted, fixing a certain representation of the southern districts.  His object was to introduce the following resolution, which he was inclined to think would command the votes of this House, and settle this vexed question:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>He did not think the question needed further debate, and would therefore be content to move a reconsideration of the vote on Mr. Gilbert's resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was taken on the reconsideration, and it was carried.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS then offered his resolution as an amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN hoped there would be a direct vote on this amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER desired to offer an amendment providing that a majority of the members from each district shall control the absent votes.  If this plan was adopted, he thought it would prove satisfactory; but if not, the amendment was a mockery.  He had seen such a course taken in conventions several times.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD sustained the proposition of Mr. McCarver.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARRILL felt a diffidence in addressing the assembly, from his ignorance of the English language.  He claimed its indulgence, therefore, as he was compelled to speak through an interpreter.  He had seen the representation presented in the amendment offered by Mr. Botts, and he was surprised to find that Los Angelos was put upon a level with Monterey.  It was well known that Los Angelos had double the number of inhabitants.  He likewise perceived that Santa Barbara had only three members.  He hoped Mr. Botts would amend his resolution by giving to Los Angelos and Santa Barbara the number of representatives to which they were entitled.  In his opinion Santa Barbara ought to have a number equal to Monterey, and Los Angelos seven members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL moved an additional amendment, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That the district of Los Angelos be entitled to seven delegates instead of five; and Santa Barbara five instead of three.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT hoped the amendment would be taken into consideration and adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said, if it was in his power he would accept the amendment.  He would, however, vote for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment of Mr. Hill, which was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on Mr. Gilbert's resolution as amended by Mr. Botts,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN remarked that it seemed to have been an understanding among those who had compromised this question, that it was intended each district should have the strength to which it was entitled, whether all the members were present or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON objected to any such proceeding.  He thought a proposition of this kind should not be offered for the purpose of riding it in upon another proposition which might possibly meet the wishes of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK also objected.  The Convention would never be able to get through its business, if each delegation was to vote for absent members.  If a few members from one district was to cast fifteen or twenty votes by proxy on any question, members from other districts would naturally and justly object to such a proceeding.  He thought it absolutely essential to the progress of business that each member should do his own voting, and that the delegation from each district should be distinctly determined.  If one member who was present to-day, should be sick to-morrow, he did not think other members had a right to vote for him.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON considered the proposition extremely objectionable.  It was the very worst principle that could be adopted.  The precedent would be most injurious.  For his own part, if he had to vote for any absentee, he wished at least to have the power of attorney.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD presumed if the grounds of the motion were properly understood, his colleague (Mr. Shannon) would not object.  It was generally admitted that the people of Sacramento were entitled to a much larger representation than either San Joaquin or San Francisco.  In order to give San Francisco the votes which it claimed, and at the same time give Sacramento and San Joaquin the number of votes to which they were entitled, this proposition was made.  The ratio of representation was to be fixed upon by the Heuse, and it was important that it should be done on the most liberal terms.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL thought the House was losing time in this discussion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR was of opinion that the discussion was not appropriate to the question before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE understood the question to be on the amendment of Mr. Botts as amended by Mr. Hill.  The primary question before the House, therefore, was, whether this ratio of representation shall be agreed upon.  He intended voting for this amendment, as he believed it to be a fair apportionment.  One additional word.  It was utterly unprecedented in any Convention held in any State, or in any parliamentary body, to vote by proxy.  Where there were different nations to be represented, such a practice might be tolerated, but he hoped there was a general feeling in this Convention against the principle.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN did not wish to be misunderstood on this question.  His only object, as stated in the first instance, was to give the districts of Sacramento and San Joaquin their full complement of votes.  He did not desire that members present should vote for absent members; but if an increase was mad in other districts, he claimed the right of those districts to an additional representation.  He held that the Convention could with perfect propriety give to Sacramento and San Joaquin the power to cast fifteen votes.  It was not bound by the action of any other body.  It was a body composed of the original representatives of the people.  He did not introduce, nor did he favor any proposition to do wrong to any portion of California; but these two mining districts, having the largest population, should have the largest representation.  It was simply from a desire to facilitate the organization of the House that he had submitted the proposition.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the amendment of Mr. Botts as amended by Mr. Hill, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK suggested a slight alteration to the resolution.  That this Committee should report the names of the persons who had received the highest number of votes from their respective districts according to the apportionment agreed upon by the House.  If any person claiming a seat should not be included, the question would come up on his case, and be decided on its own merits.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS accepted the amendment.  The question recurring on the resolution, as amended, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK stated that he had received a few moments since some additional election returns.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, they were received, and ordered to be laid before a committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR appointed, as such Committee, Messrs. Shannon, Hoppe, and Dent.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE suggested that there was a good deal of business to transact, which might be done during the sitting of this Committee.  It was important to determine what officers were necesary.  This could be done while the Committee was preparing its report.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON thought it hardly fair to go into any business whatever until it was first ascertained who were entitled to seats.  It would then be time to go into the election of officers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE said, that if the House proceeded according to any established rules, it had no right to determine on the sitting of members until it was fully organized.  It was necessary that there should be some members at least to proceed to business before this question could be determined.  He did not mean to say that it was absolutely necessary for the House now to commence confining itself to rules before it was organized, but to facilitate business under present circumstances, having gone so far astray from all parliamentary custom, he thought it advisable to determine what officers were necessary, and to elect them without further delay.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN believed the gentleman was entirely mistaken.  It was well known that for weeks and weeks the Congress of the United States was in session under just such a temporary organization, on the famous Jersey question.  He considered the present organization of the Convention perfectly legitimate.  He hoped there would not be a solitary step taken, except on the admission of members, until every member entitled to a seat was admitted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT read a portion of Cushing's Manual on this subject, [page 10, section 6,] which he thought settled the question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the House took a recess of one hour.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 2 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON, from the Special Committee appointed this morning, made a report, which, on motion of Mr. Gwin, was adopted; viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Your Committee has the honor of reporting the following as the "names of the persons who have received the highest number of votes in the several districts, equal to the apportionment adopted by the resolution of to-day," and additional to those already returned as elected by the Governor, to this Convention, viz;--</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Santa Barbara</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Jose</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Francisco</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sonoma</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sacramento</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Joaquin</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT moved that the Convention now proceed to the election of a President.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE suggested the propriety of first determining what officers were necessary to complete the preliminary organization of the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that the election of President was first in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER moved that the election by conducted by ballot.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOBSON submitted the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>1.  In the election of officers of this Convention a majority of all the votes given shall be necessary to a choice.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  In voting for the officers, where several candidates are presented, the lowest on the list shall be dropped until a selection is made.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  In the election of officers of this Convention members shall vote by ballot.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCAVER insisted on his motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS hoped that it would not be the pleasure of the House to vote by ballot.  He thought it a principle that should be observed here, that it was a representative body, and that those who were represented had a right to know the manner in which members disposed of their votes.  They were not here casting their own votes, but the votes of others.  He preferred calling by name the individual for whom he voted, when representing the will of others.  He therefore proposed to amend the resolution by striking out the word ballot, and insert <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD preferred the adoption of the original resolution.  The remarks of the gentleman wer true, as a general rule.  But in the selection of officers where there was no principle involved, and where there might be personal feeling, it was usual to vote by ballot.  He hoped the gentleman would withdraw his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS could not consent to withdraw the amendment.  He did not believe there would be any personal feeling.  As to the principal, he could tell gentlemen there was frequently a great deal of principle involved in the election of officers.  His constituents had a right to know his vote, and he insisted upon his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the amendment was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the original resolution,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved that three tellers be appointed to count the votes, which was agreed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARILLO said there were certain members from below, who were entitled to seats under the resolution adopted by the House.  He moved that they be sent for.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that there was no officer to send for them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved that the Convention take a recess till 3 o'clock, in order that the absent members who were in town might be sent for.  Adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 3 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The roll was read.  Messr. Norton, Snyder and Jones were announced by the Chair as tellers appointed under the motion of Mr. Norton.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A discussion as to which resolution had precedence having arisen,</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the question before the House was on the adoption of the amendment offered by Mr. Hobson to the resolution of Mr. McCarver.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER objected to the amendment on this ground: That it was fixing the rules of the House by resolution.  It also prevented persons from becoming candidates, who might possibly be the ultimate choice of the Convention.  The candidate having the least number of votes could never be reconsidered.  This was forestalling all further action, and was different from any custom with which he was acquainted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE also objected to the amendment.  He thought it was not customary to withdraw the hindmost candidate.  The usual plan was to continue to ballot until some member received a majority of the votes.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS considered this objection unfounded.  The member dropped would have a right to be renominated.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER was of opinion that in passing this resolution a rule of the House was adopted, and the candidate under that rule could not become a candidate again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved to strike out the second article of Mr. Hobson's proposition, which was agreed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the proposition as amended, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then proceeded to the election of a President.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, Messrs. Norton, Snyder, and Jones were appointed tellers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Upon counting the ballots, it was announced to the Convention, by the tellers, that Robert Semple, of the district of Sonoma, was duly elected President.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Messrs. Sutter and Vallejo were appointed a committee to escort the President to his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>PRESIDENT'S ADDRESS.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Fellow-citizens of the House of Delegates of California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>We are now, fellow-citizens, occupying a position to which all eyes are turned.  The eyes not only of our sister and parent States are upon us, but the eyes of all Europe are now directed toward California.  This is the preliminary movement for the organization of a civil government, and the establishment of social institutions.  You are called upon, by your fellow-citizens, to exert all your influence and power to secure to them all the blessings that a good government can bestow upon a free people.  It is important, then, that in your proceedings you should use all possible care, discretion, and judgment; and especially that a spirit of compromise should prevail in all your deliberations.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It is to be hoped that every feeling of harmony will be cherished to the utmost in this Convention.  By this course, fellow-citizens, I am satisfied that we can prove to the world that California has not been settled entirely by unintelligent and unlettered men.  I am sure that the present population of California is well calculated to strike the world with, at least, a degree of that admiration which our rapid progress in wealth and prosperity has done.  Although the progress of California in point of wealth, has been beyond all previous anticipations, yet her progress in population has been still greater.  So far from this population consisting of persons who had nothing to do at home, it had drained from the States many of the best families and most intelligent men in the country.  The knowledge, enterprise and genius of the old world will reappear in the new, to guide it to its destined position among the nations of the earth.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Let us, then, go onward and upward, and let our motto be, "Justice, Industry, and Economy."</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of the PRESIDENT, an invitation was extended to Governor Riley to a seat on the floor of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD offered the following resolution, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved that the rules of the House be suspended, and nominated Mr. Hartwell as Interpreter and Translator.  Adopted, <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The House then proceeded to elect a Secretary and Assistant Secretaries; whereupon Wm. G. Marcy received a majority of votes, and was declared duly elected Secretary.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Caleb Lyon received a majority of votes as First Assistant Secretary, and was declared duly elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>J. G. Field received a majority of votes as Second Assistant Secretary, and was declared duly elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, a committee of three were appointed to report upon the subject of a Reporter for the Convention.  Messrs. Gwin, Dent, and Gilbert, were selected as such committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then preceeded to the election of a Sergeant-at-Arms; whereupon, Mr. Houston, having received a majority of the votes, was declared duly elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the rules were suspended, and Cornelius Sullivan was elected Doorkeeper, <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VALLEJO moved that a Clerk be appointed to assist the Interpreter and Translator.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved the following resolution, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Committee--Messrs. Price, Larkin, and Norton.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN then offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. PRICE, the above resolution was made the special order of the day for to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A motion for adjournment was made and lost.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the rules of the House were suspended, and Mr. W. H. Henrie elected ( <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN then submitted the following resolution, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then adjourned until 10 o'clock, A.M. to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by the Rev. Padre Antonio Ramirez.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN inquired whether there was a quorum present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that, by a resolution passed yesterday settling the ratio of representation in the several districts, the whole number of members who should be here was fixed at sixty-nine.  It would then require thirty-six to form a quorum for the transaction of business, which was about the whole number present.  In all regularly organised legislative bodies, it would be beyond their reach to change this order of things; but the Convention was an original meeting of the people, through their representatives, to form a system of laws, and its organization was legitimately under its own control.  He thought some provision should be made to facilitate business.  It would now require too much time to send emissaries throughout the country to compel the attendance of the members elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said it was for that very reason that he made the inquiry.  He was perfectly confident that no instance could be given of any deliberative body transacting business without a quorum of its own members.  The report of the Committee named the persons elected.  It would be impossible to get over the difficulty by requiring the attendance of these members.  There was but one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK was opposed to any proceeding of this kind.  Although the House might give the votes of a whole district to two or three members of that district, it would be altogether improper, if not impracticable, to make those members serve for fifteen person in forming a quorum.  This difficulty he anticipated at the outset, and had mentioned it to the members, when the committee fixed the number for each district.  To adopt the plan suggested would only get the House into still greater difficulty.  There would be several additional members present in a few days, and with them he thought a quorum could be formed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said if the gentleman would suggest a remedy he would cheerfully agree to it.  He was not personally in favor of the plan which he had thrown out, but it occurred to him as the only alternative within their reach.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK observed that there was a quorum now present, and he hoped the House would proceed to business.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY moved that the officers and members of the Convention first take the oath to support the Constitution of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to postpone the order of the day for that purpose.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN was willing to waive, but not postpone the order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR deemed it necessary that the body should first be organized.  It was for the House to determine whether or not that course should be adopted.  It was either organized, or not organized.  The question would be whether the members should take the oath before proceeding to business as an organized body.  Which was put and determined in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN suggested that the President be sworn by some legal officer of the city.  He thought the Judge of the Supreme Court, who was present, could do it, and then swear in all the other members.  The Judge or Alcade should perform this duty.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR said if it was the will of the House, the Secretary of State could swear in the President, and the President could then administer the oaths to the members as a body.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Which was adopted; and the President of the Convention was duly sworn by the Secretary of State; after which the President administered the oath to the members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ORDER OF THE DAY.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN's resolution being the order of the day, was then taken up and read.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK wished to propose a substitute, for the purpose of getting an expression of the sense of the House on two points.  He had very little doubt as to the result; nevertheless, as many wished their views to be known on that subject, he desired to make the two points separate and distinct.  It was with respect to a State or a Territorial form of government.  He therefore moved that the resolution be so worded as to give a direct expression of opinion on each point, whether the plan of a State Government was desired, or whether the Convention should propose to Congress a plan of a Territorial Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said, that if the question was whether any other than a State Government should be considered, he was willing the vote of this House should be taken to decide it, but he was not willing to sit here and take any other plan into consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the question was on the amendment of Mr. Halleck.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN could not agree to accept this amendment as a substitute for his resolution, because it embodied precisely the same thing.  The resolution submitted by him was open to discussion.  If there be any objection to a State Constitution, the question of a Territorial Government is thrown open.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK's only object was to separate the two questions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN did not think there was a member on this floor in favor of a Territorial Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER proposed moving the question, whether this body proceed to form a State or Territorial Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR considered the question embodied in the resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS was opposed to the resolution last offered, and in favor of the resolution providing for the organization of a State Government.  If it was a State Government it would not be a Territorial Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT, in order to cover the whole, moved the following as an amendment to the amendment of Mr. Halleck:</P>
196.sgm:<P>1.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>2.  <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK accepted Mr. Gilbert's proposition as a substitute for his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN accepted the first resolution offered by Mr. Gilbert as a substitute for his second resolution, and in order to have a direct vote, called the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the previous question was on the original resolution, that being the order of the day.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS moved to amend the resolution by inserting two from each district instead of one.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the motion to add an additional member was within the reach of the House at any time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN accepted the amendment of two instead of one.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. FOSTER suggested that the resolution to appoint a Committee be put in such shape as to give the opinion of the House directly on the subject of the form of government.  Some members were in favor of a Territorial Government.  For one, he was opposed at present to entering into a State Government.  He desired, and so did others, to have the vote separate and distinct.  It appeared to him that Mr. Halleck's amendment to the resolution accomplished the object.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN renewed his call for the previous question; but the motion giving rise to discussion, he finally withdrew it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARILLO said the first question ought to be, whether California was to remain a Territory, or be formed into a State.  Whatever determination there might be on that subject, he thought a Committee ought to be appointed to report upon it, that members might record their votes on that question alone, if they so desired it.  Any step taken contrary to this plan would only involve the Convention in difficulty.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT did not perceive what right the House had to enter into any question of that kind.  The delegates of this Convention were elected for a special purpose--to form a State Constitution.  They were not required to give any expression of opinion as to any other form of government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that Governor Riley, in the recommendation contained in his proclamation, referred to a Territorial as well as a State Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT thought there was another reason why the two questions should be separated.  If gentlemen were honest in stating that the two resolutions would have the same effect, it was yielding nothing to comply with the wishes of those who desired to record their vote in favor of a Territorial Government.  He was compelled, in compliance with the wishes of his constituents, to vote for a Territorial Government.  He considered it due to members who voted under such instructions, that the direct question should be put, whether the Convention should proceed to form a State or a Territorial Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Further dicussion having taken place, Mr. GILBERT called for the reading of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS cordially approved of the sentiments expressed in the resolution of Mr. Gilbert; but strange to say, they led him to entirely different conclusions.  He (Mr. Botts) wanted to see the whole subject discussed by the Convention in Committee of the Whole.  He desired that every member should participate in the discussion.  He was aware it was the wish of the gentleman that this Committee should return immediately with a plan of a Constitution to be laid before the House.  But what does the resolution authorize this Committee to do?  What power does it give the Committee?  The very difficulty which the gentleman sought to avoid was involved in the adoption of the Constitution so reported.  For his own part, he would vote for the resolution which provides for the taking of the test question at once, whether it should be a Constitution for the State or a Territorial Government.  He would then offer an amendment providing that the House go directly into Committee of the Whole for the consideration of a Constitution for that State or Territory; and for precisely the same reasons that the gentleman from San Francisco had offered his resolution, requiring the Committee to report the plan of a Constitution in detached portions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT said his chief motive was the desire to save time--the wish to shorten the sitting of this Convention to the least possible limit.  In all the Conventions of which he had read, a great deal of time had been lost by parcelling out different departments of the Constitution to different Committees.  It was the case in the late Convention of New York.  They had some ten different Committees.  When all the reports were before the House, it took them two months to settle upon a plan of a Constitution.  It was found that the different reports had no co-relative sympathy, and it was almost utterly impossible to unite them.  This Committee, which he proposed, could hold its meetings during the intervals between the sittings of the Convention, and report from time to time such portions of the Constitution as they had adopted.  The House could, meantime, be engaged in debating the articles before it in Committee of the Whole.  He wished it distinctly understood that his object was to save time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARILLO stated that he represented one of the most respectable communities in California, and he did not believe it to be to the interest of his constituents that a State Government should be formed.  At the same time, as a great majority of this Convention appeared to be in favor of a State Government, he proposed that the country should be divided by running a line west from San Luis Obispo, so that all north of that line might have a State Government, and all south thereof a Territorial Government.  He and his colleagues were under instructions to vote for a Territorial organization.  He took this view, because he believed it to be to the interest of his constituents.  And although a gentleman belonging to this body had stated, that it was not the object of the Convention to form a Constitution for the Californians, he begged leave to say, that he considered himself as much an American citizen as the gentleman who made the assertion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said he was very glad that the gentleman had afforded him an opportunity of stating precisely what his meaning was.  He had been very much misunderstood on this point.  What he said was, that the Constitution which they were about to form was for the American population.  Why?  Because the American population was the majority.  It was for the protection of the California population--government was instituted for the protection of minorities--this Constitution was to be formed with a view to the protection of the minority: the native Californians.  The majority of any community is the party to be governed; the restrictions of law are interposed between them and the weaker party; they are to be restrained from infringing upon the rights of the minority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Interpreter having translated this explanation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARILLO expressed himself perfectly satisfied.  He had nothing further to say, except that he conceived it to be to the interests of his constituents, if a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. FOSTER, although acting under instructions similar to those of his colleague, did not believe that a majority of his constituents wished a separation.  There was no doubt they desired a Territorial Government, but he believed they would prefer to bear their share of the burden of a State Government rather than divide the country.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK wished to say a word before the question was put.  He represented a portion of the California population in this House.  The idea was prevalent that the native Californians were opposed to a State Government.  This he did not conceive to be the case.  He was satisfied from the conversations he had had with them, that they were nearly unanimous in favor of a State Government.  As to the line of distinction attempted to be drawn between native Californians and Americans, he knew no such distinction himself; his constituents knew none.  They all claimed to be Americans.  They would not consent to be placed in a minority.  They classed themselves with Americans, and were entitled to be considered in the majority.  No matter from what nation they came, he trusted that hereafter they would be classed with the American people.  The Constitution was to be formed for their benefit as well as to that of the native born Americans.  They all had one common interest at stake, and one common object in view: the protection of government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN would not be misunderstood by any interpretation given to his remarks on this floor or elsewhere.  It was notorious that the citizens of the United States were known as Americans here; and when he spoke of Americans, he spoke of citizens of the old States of the Union, now in California.  He knew no distinction prejudicial to the interests of either.  He had attempted to draw none.  He spoke of them as a matter of numbers; that the citizens from the old States of the Union formed the majority here, and this Constitution was for the protection of the class forming the minority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK desired to say that his constituents claimed no protection under the Constitution of California, which was not guarantied to them by the treaty of peace.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being then taken on the first part of Mr. Gilbert's proposition, the result was as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Crosby, Dent, Dimmick, Ellis, Gwin, Gilbert, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Jones, Larkin, Lippencott, Moore, McCarver, Norton, Ord, Price, Sutter, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Semple, Vallejo, Wozencraft--28.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS--Messrs. Foster, Hill, Reid, Stearns, Pico, Tefft, Carillo, Rodriguez--8.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question as to there being a quorum present having arisen, and being decided in the negative by the President,</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. DENT, the Convention took a recess for half an hour.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON' SESSION, 2 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR remarked that it was desirable to have some known and settled rules for the government of the House.  It was not practicable for each member to determine at any time which was the best rule.  The House should establish proper regulations, and abide by them.  It was true, it had been irregularly organized.  The Territory of California was obtained from another government, differing very materially from ours.  We were to make something out of nothing; to construct organization and form out of chaos.  The object was to produce a good fundamental system of laws; and to accomplish this it was absolutely necessary to adopt some fixed rule of action.  All business should be suspended until the house was properly organized.  It was now in confusion.  By an act of the Convention, it would seem that the number of members was fixed at seventy-three; thirty-eight would, therefore, be necessary to form a quorum.  It would be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>A discussion here arose on the subject of a quorum, and the rules necessary for the action of the House, during which several propositions were offered but not entertained.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On a call of the House, the President declaring a quorum present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to reconsider the report of the Committee on Privileges and Elections, and offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Adopted, <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
196.sgm:<P>A motion to adjourn having been made--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said he hoped the House would first dispose of the resolution in regard to the appointment of a Select Committee on the Constitution, in order that it might report some material upon which the Convention could proceed at its next meeting.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER moved to amend Mr. Gilbert's amendment to Mr. Gwin's resolution by striking out all after the word "Resolved," and insert the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That the Convention do now resolve itself into a Committee of the Whole, and take into consideration the Constitution of the State of Iowa, as a basis for the Constitution of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN remarked, that the motion of the gentleman rendered it proper that he should make an explanation.  Before he (Mr. Gwin) was elected a member of this Convention, a consideration of very great importance occurred to him--the difficulty that would be encountered during the labors of the Convention from the absence of a printing press.  It would be admitted, that it was indispensable that every member should have before him the precise words upon which he was called upon to vote.  He had exerted himself to have a press here, but found it impracticable.  He then took the responsibility, in consideration of the great public necessity of the case, and after consultation with several members, to print a copy of the Constitution of Iowa, in order that every member might have it before him, and write on the margin any amendment that might occur to him.  He had intended, if the Committee had been appointed, to have proposed this paper as a basis; and if it met the approval of the Committee, he would then have moved to come into Committee of the Whole.  No member would be committed to any part or provision.  He had selected the Constitution of Iowa, because it was one of the latest and shortest.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS most heartily approved of the suggestion of the gentleman from San Francisco.  It placed business before the House at once.  As to any particular Constitution, it made no difference.  This paper was well printed and could be taken in hand without further delay.  He suggested to the mover of the proposition the propriety of withdrawing the resolution originally offered by him, in order to permit this to go directly before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN would be glad to do so if it met the wishes of the House.  With the consent of his colleague, he would therefore propose to withdraw it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT could not consent to withdraw his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD was of opinion that there would be enough to do in discussing propositions consolidated by a Committee, without bringing the whole matter before the Convention at once.  It was desirable to have the cream of the whole--the best material of the Constitutions of the thirty States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK asked gentlemen who approved of this idea of taking up an entire Constitution in Committee of the Whole, whether from the experience of the last few days they considered the whole body better calculated to do business than a small committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT remarked that, although in introducing his amendment, he did it to avoid the complicated machinery of a number of committees, he did not suppose any member would be in favor of destroying altogether that principle of legislative action.  It was an established usage in legislative bodies, that matters of great importance should come before the House through a committee.  This committee must digest the material for the action of the House.  He apprehended that when the report of the proposed committee came up for consideration, there would be enough amendments, propositions, and debates to satisfy all.  He was opposed to adopting any one constitution as a basis, unless it came through a committee.  Let this committee take all the constitutions and report what they deemed best.  Each member could then, in Committee of the Whole, propose such amendments as he thought proper.  It appeared to him that there was no other judicious mode of proceeding.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said there was still one difficulty.  He was not opposed to a committee where there were ordinary facilities, but he wanted to know what was to be done with the report of this committee?  Were the members to act upon one copy of the report?  It was impossible for business to progress this way.  If there was a printing press it would be the proper course, but no deliberative body, within his knowledge, ever passed a measure without first having it laid before each member for his examination.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT thought the gentleman overrated the difficulty of getting copies of this report for the use of the members.  It would possibly consist of not more than half a page at a time, which could be copied by the clerks.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK did not see how business could be expedited by adopting, as a basis, the Constitution of Iowa.  It would have to be translated into Spanish, and a sufficient number of copies made for those who only spoke that language.  If, on the other hand, the committee reported, article by article, a plan of a Constitution, it could be translated, copied, and laid upon the tables of the members at the opening of each day's session.  He approved of Mr. Gilbert's resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS would like to know how the House could understandingly vote upon a particular section, when it was ignorant of what was to follow.  Nothing appeared to him more impolitic than the introduction, by piecemeal, of sections upon which others, behind, might be dependent.  All must be acted upon together.  A section, objectionable in itself, in one part of the Constitution, might, in another, be made beneficial.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE said there seemed to be great difficulty in the minds of gentlemen in relation to the mode of getting to work at the business of making a Constitution.  He had a resolution which he thought would be acceptable to the House.  He hoped it would also be satisfactory to his colleague, (Mr. Gilbert.)</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT preferred that the question should come at once between Mr. Gwin's resolution and his own.   As to the difficulty referred to by gentlemen in relation to reporting, from time to time, different portions of a Constitution, it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE objected to making one general committee, as contemplated by the resolution of Mr. Gilbert.  The work of the Convention should be subdivided.  He believed five or seven standing committees should be made.  By adopting this plan, he thought the form of a Constitution could be thrown together much quicker than by putting the whole labor on one committee.  It was with this view that he moved the appointment of a committee to report upon the best mode of proceeding.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Price's amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. BOTTS, the Convention adjourned till 10 o'clock to-morrow morning.</P>
196.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by the Rev. Mr. Willey.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Journal of yesterday's proceedings were read, amended, and adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LARKIN offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Whereupon Messrs. Cabarruvias and De La Guerra were sworn in by the President and took their seats.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT then stated that he was absent when the members were sworn in yesterday, and requested that the oath be administered to him; which was accordingly done by the President.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, an invitation to take seats upon the floor of this House was extended to Col. Weller, Judge Hastings, and Col. Russell.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. HALLECK, Manuel Dominguez ws sworn in by the President, and took his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN reported, as chairman of the Committee on the appointment of a Reporter, against the publishing of the proceedings by the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>He then moved a suspension of the rules, and nominated Mr. J. Ross Browne as Reporter to the Convention, who was elected, <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved a reconsideration of the vote upon the resolution declaring it expedient to establish a State Government, which was received, and ordered to be laid on the table subject to call.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. PRICE,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ORDER OF THE DAY.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE stated that he had drafted a resolution asking for the appointment of six standing committess by the President, to take into consideration the different portions of the Constitution.  There might be special committees appointed from time to time if necessary; but these standing committees would always be ready to perform any duty imposed upon them by the House in Committee of the Whole.  He believed the business of the Convention would be done quicker by the adoption of this resolution than by any other mode uet suggested.  There appeared to be there distinct propositions before the House: One to go at once into Committee of the Whole, and debate, section by section, the entire Constitution.  In addition to the same resolution, it was proposed yesterday to take as a basis one of the State Constitutions.  Mr. Gilbert's resolution proposes to appoint one general committee, to report from time to time the plan of a Constitution.  He would not detain the House by going into a discussion of the merits of these different <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>1st.  Enacting clause and Bill of Rights.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2d.  Legislative Department and qualification of electors.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3d.  Executive and Executive powers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>4th.  Judicial Department.</P>
196.sgm:<P>5th.  Mode of amending and revising.</P>
196.sgm:<P>6th.  General provisions and schedule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK was opposed to this plan, and preferred the amendment of Mr. Gilbert as better calculated to facilitate the business of the Convention.  He knew of no instance of the appointment of a number of committees, where a body of this kind had been enabled to get through its labors short of two or three months.  There was no reason to suppose that six committee would get through any sooner here than in other Conventions.  Great labor would be required in combining the reports of these different committees.  Confusion and difficulty would be the inevitable result.  Moreover, there would be various omissions, as in the case of the Constitution of New York.  He did not know of any State Constitution that contained more admirable provisions than that; nevertheless, there was no Constitution in the States so imperfect; and this fact arose, not from the want of talent in the Convention, but from the appointment of a large number of committees.  He was aware that there were numerous aspirants for the position of chairman to the proposed committee, but he thought that matter might be decided by the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said the gentleman's remarks presented a most irresistible argument against the proposition which he advocated.  The very fact referred to by him showed the impracticability of doing business in the mode proposed, without a printing press.  The experience of forming thirty Constitutions of the States--the result of seventy years of labor--was to be thrown aside, and this Convention was to enter into a new field, to draft a new Constitution.  The gentleman had shown the absolute necessity of taking one of these Constitutions as a basis.  There would then be no necessity for either one standing committee or six special committees.  The entire Constitution could be discussed in Committee of the Whole.  He did not care which Constitution was taken up.  It would be infinitely better to take any one of them than appoint a committee to report upon a form section by section.  It was with the intention of proposing in committee to lay the printed copy, already referred to, before the House, that he had offered his original resolution.  That Constitution was one of the latest, and briefest.  He wanted nothing better than to form a Constitution from the thirty Constitutions of the Union.  Had some standard or plan been taken as a basis, the Convention would now be at work upon it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS rose to protest against the haste apparent in every quarter of the House, to proceed headlong in this important matter of forming a Constitution.  He appealed to members to consider the circumstances under which they were here.  It was to perform the most solemn of trusts--to decide upon the fundamental principles of a Government.  This great question of securing to mankind the prosperity and happiness which can only result from a good Government, now agitates the world.  It occupies the minds of sages, and the discussion of it fills volumes.  Yet gentlemen come here under the expectation of making a Constitution almost in a single day.  He had been present as a spectator in one or two Conventions of the old States.  He was struck with the contrast presented by this; for highly respectable as it was, he could not but be impressed with the absence of those gray hairs which he had seen in assemblies of this solemn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON sustained Mr. Gilbert's proposition.  He thought it would be the only means of advancing the work before the Convention.  It was a great object to expedite business.  The people sent delegates here to form the organic law of what would soon, he trusted, be a great State of the American Union.  The proposition of Mr. Gilbert seemed to him to indicate the most practicable mode of proceeding.  The Committee thus appointed could report, in whole or in part, a form to be acted upon in Committee of the Whole.  He was not prepared to say they could form a Constitution better than those of the several States; but the Committee could select from them such provisions as were most applicable to this country, and by combining the wisdom of the whole, make a better Constitution than could be accomplished in any other way.  The experience of Conventions proved that where several Committees were appointed on the several articles of the Constitution, men of different opinions necessarily presided over them, who deemed themselves bound to sustain their respective Committees.  In the present case the objection would be peculiarly striking, where so many were assembled together coming with conflicting prejudices from different States of the Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN observed that he had lived in three of the old States.  He had carefully examined all the State Constitutions, and he prefered the Constitution of Iowa to that of any other State.  He had no sectional prejudices to gratify here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON did not refer particularly to Mr. Gwin.  That gentleman was not the only member of this House.  Such prejudices existed, and that was sufficient.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS said that all appeared anxious to effect the same great object, but arrived at different conclusions.  It was very important that the work should be commenced at once; yet it was argued that it should not be hastily commenced, because the object was an important one.  He considered that an excellent reason for beginning it without delay.  They were not without a guide; there was one book to which they had access, containing the Constitution adopted by the wisdom of the age in which the framers lived--sanctioned by long experience--pronounced superior to any ever adopted in the known world.  If the lawyer appears at the bar to argue his cause, he knows well where to find the best book extant on human rights and human government--the Constitution of the United States.  The record of the debates on that Constitution embraced the principles of all the State Constitutions.  The best plan would be to take up that great instrument as a guide, and proceed to form a Constitution for the State of California.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>29</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Price's amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on Mr. Gilbert's amendment--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN rose to a question of order, whether his resolution and that of Mr. Gilbert were not precisely the same in effect.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT explained that the Committee proposed by him might report from time to time such articles or sections of a plan as might be passed upon in Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN asked if his was not precisely the same in effect--to report the plan, or any portion of the plan of a State Constitution.  He made it a question of order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided that where two resolutions were the same in substance and effect, the amendment could not be properly considered as before the House.  It was the opinion of the chair that these two propositions did not vary in effect.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT appealed from the decision of the Chair.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK asked if an appeal could be debated.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT called for the yeas and nays on the appeal, which was ordered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS--Messrs. Aram, Carillo, Cabarruvias, Crosby, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Gwin, Hoppe, Hobson, Hastings, Jones, La Guerra, Larkin, Lippitt, Moore, McCarver, Ord, Price, Pico, Rodruguez, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Sherwood, Stearns, Vallejo, Woozencraft--30.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS--Messrs. Gilbert, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Lippincott, Norton, and Teft--6.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on Mr. Gwin's resolution, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the blank was filled with the word two.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. Gwin, the House took a recess of half an hour to allow the Chair an opportunity of appointing the Standing Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 1 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention re-assembled pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The President announced the following as the Standing Committee on the Constitution:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Messrs. Gwin and Norton, of San Francisco; Hill and Pedrorena, of San Diego; Foster and Carrillo, of Los Angelos; De La Guerra and Rodriguez, of Santa Barbara; Tefft and Cabarruvias, of San Luis Obispo; Dent and Halleck, of Monterey; Dimmick and Hoppe, of San Jose; Vallejo and Walker, of Sonoma; Snyder and Sherwood, of Sacramento; Lippencott and Moore, of San Joaquin.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Committee on Rules and Regulations</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved that the Secretary of the Convention have power to employ a clerk or clerks, if such are necessary, and to report to the Convention the name or names of the person or persons he proposes to appoint, for its approval.  Adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. PRICE,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN objected, and the resolution was laid over.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the hour of the assembling of the Convention was fixed at 10 A.M. until otherwise ordered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by the Rev. Padre Ramirez.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. E. Brown, from the District of San Jose, appeared, was sworn, and took his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS offered the following resolution.  He thought it proper that the officers of this Convention should know precisely upon what they were to depend:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Messrs. Botts, Halleck, Vallejo, Brown, and Price, were appointed by the President as such committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, on behalf of the Committee on the Constitution, begged leave to state that the Committee had had the subject under consideration, and during the brief time allowed it, had not been able to prepare any written report.  There had been, in Committee, a great degree of unanimity on the adoption of the first portion of a Constitution; and it was prepared to report this morning, verbally, if the House desired it, a bill of rights.  The Committee were of opinion that the preamble should be postponed until after the form of a Constitution had been agreed upon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS moved that the Committee be permitted to report, when one copy of their report was ready.  Adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, the Chairman of the Committee, then reported as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Select Committee appointed to report a plan, or any portion of "a plan of a State Constitution," having had the same under consideration, respectfully report the following proposed articles:</P>
196.sgm:<P>ARTICLE I.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Declaration of Rights</HI>
196.sgm:<P>I.  No member of this State shall be disfranchised or deprived of any of the rights or privileges secured to any citizen thereof, unless by the law of the land, or the judgment of his peers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>II.  The right of trial by jury shall be secured to all, and remain inviolate forever.  But a jury trial may be waived by the parties in all civil cases in the manner to be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>III.  The free exercise and enjoyment of religious profession and worhsip, without discrimination or preference, shall forever be allowed in this State to all mankind; and no person shall be rendered incompetent to be a witness on account of his opinions on matters of religious belief; but the liberty of conscience hereby secured, shall not be so construed as to excuse acts of licentiousness, or justify practices inconsistent with the peace or safety of this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>IV.  The privileges of the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:<P>V.  Excessive bail shall not be required, nor excessive fines imposed, nor shall cruel and unusual punishments be inflicted, nor shall witnesses be unreasonably detained.</P>
196.sgm:<P>VI.  No person shall be held to answer for a capital, or otherwise infamous crime, (except in cases of impeachment, and in cases of militia, when in actual service; and the land and naval forces in time of war, or which this State may keep with the consent of Congress in time of peace; and in cases of petit larceny, under the regulation of the Legislature,) unless on presentment, or indictment of a grand jury; and in any trial, in any court whatever, the party accused shall be allowed to appear and defend in person and with counsel, as in civil actions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>No person shall be subject to be twice put in jeopardy for the same offence, nor shall he be compelled, in any criminal case, to be a witness against himself; nor be deprived of life, liberty, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>VII.  When private property shall be taken for any public use, the compensation to be made therefor, when such compensation is not made by the State, shall be ascertained by a jury, or by not less than three commissioners appointed by a Court of Record, as shall be prescribed by law.  Private roads may be opened in the manner to be prescribed by law, but in every case the necessity of the road, and the amount of all damage to be sustained by the opening thereof, shall be first determined by a jury of freeholders, and such amount, together with the expenses of the proceedings, shall be paid by the person to be benefitted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>VIII.  Every citizen may freely speak, write, and publish his sentiments, on all subjects, being responsible for the abuse of that right, and no law shall be passed to restrain or abridge the liberty of speech or of the press.  In all criminal prosecutions or indictments for libels, the truth may be given in evidence to the jury; and if it shall appear to the jury that the matter charged as libellious is true, and was published with good motives, and for justifiable ends, the party shall be acquitted; and the jury shall have the right to determine the law and the fact.</P>
196.sgm:<P>IX.  No law shall be passed, abridging the right of the people peaceably to assemble and to petition the government, or any department thereof; nor shall any divorce be granted, otherwise than by due judicial proceedings; nor shall any lottery hereafter be authorized, or any sale of lottery tickets allowed within this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>X.  Any citizen of this State who may hereafter be engaged, either directly or indirectly, in a duel, either as principal or accessory before the fact, shall forever be disqualified from holding any office under the Constitution and laws of this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>XI.  All laws of a general nature shall have a uniform operation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>XII.  The military shall be subordinate to the civil power.  No standing army shall be kept up by the State in time of peace, and in time of war no appropriation for a standing army shall be by the State in time of peace, and in time of war no appropriation for a standing army shall be for a longer time than two years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>XIII.  No soldier shall, in time of peace, be quartered in any house, without the consent of the owner, nor in time of war, except in the manner prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>XIV.  No person shall be imprisoned for debt, in any civil action in mesne, or final process, unless in cases of fraud; and no person shall be imprisoned for a militia fine in time of peace.</P>
196.sgm:<P>XV.  Foreigners, who are, or who may hereafter become, residents of this State, shall enjoy the same rights in respect to the possession, enjoyment, and descent of property, as native born citizens.</P>
196.sgm:<P>XVI.  This enumeration of rights shall not be construed to impair or deny others, retained by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>By order of the Committee.<HSEP>MYRON NORTON, <HI REND="italics">Chairman</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>With regard to this resolution, Mr. GWIN would merely state that the first eight sections of the report submitted by the chairman of the Select Committee, were from the Constitution of New York; all the others were from the Constitution of Iowa.  There were several manuscript copies of the first part, and printed copies of the last, which would enable the Convention to proceed to business at the hour designated.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK stated that the committee did not consider this article (the declaration of rights) complete; but they had agreed upon it in a spirit of compromise, and with a determination to go forward with the work this morning.  If other members united with the committee in this effort, he thought the object could be accomplished.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD moved to amend Mr. Gwin's resolution by laying the report on the table, and making it the special order of the day for Monday, at 10 o'clock, A.M. Rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES suggested that a portion of the House did not understand the language of this bill of rights.  They required time to have it translated.  Besides, it was desirable that the House should have time to examine other Constitutions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN stated that a translation had already been made.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS was not, for his part, prepared to cast any vote that this important committee should dictate to him.  He found, this morning, that the whole power of making this Constitution was consigned to the hands of twenty <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD remarked that this Committee, although composed of twenty members, did not assume to make a Constitution.  No such power was delegated to them.  In conformity with the resolution under which they were appointed, they merely discharged the onerous duty imposed upon them of reporting to the Convention what they deemed to be the best plan of a government for California.  The gentleman from Monterey is one of the members to decide whether the results of the labors of this Committee are worthy to be laid before the people for their sanction.  It is for the purpose of giving work to the Convention, that this material is reported by the Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN then withdrew his resolution and substituted the following in its place:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved to amend Mr. Gwin's resolution, by providing that the House resolve itself immediately into a Committee of the Whole, to take into consideration the reported Bill of Rights.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After debate, the amendment was withdrawn.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question upon the adoption of Mr. Gwin's resolution was then put to the Convention, and carried.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The President then stated that the Secretary had submitted to him for the approval of the Convention, the names of Messrs. J. F. Howe, John E. Durivage, and J. S. Robb, as Clerks.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The President submitted a communication from J. Ross Browne, Reporter to the Convention, which was referred to the Committee on Reporting.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On their own application, Messrs.  Halleck and Vallejo were excused from the Committee of five on Expenses of the Convention, and Messrs.  Crosby and Larkin were substituted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, the Convention adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by the Rev. Mr. Willey.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the daily calling of the roll of members was dispensed with, until otherwise ordered by the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHANNON, Mr. McDougal, a member from Sacramento, and on motion of Mr. VALLEJO, Mr. Walker, a member from Sonoma, were sworn by the President to support the Constitution of the United States, and took their seats as members of the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Journal of yesterday was read, amended on motion of Mr. Botts, and then approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS submitted the following resolutions:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD called for the special order of the day; and, after debate, it was decided by the Chair that the special order was the first business before the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved a reference of his resolution to the Committee of the Whole.  The motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF THE WHOLE.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the Convention resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Lippett in the chair, and took up the special order of the day, being the "Declaration of Rights," yesterday reported by the Select Committee appointed to report "a plan or part of a plan of a State Constitution."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved the following as the first and second sections of the bill of rights:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1. All men are by nature free and independent, and have certain inalienable rights, among which are those of enjoying and defending life and liberty, acquiring, possessing, and protecting property, and pursuing and obtaining safety and happiness.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 2. All political power is inherent in the people.  Government is instituted for the protection, security, and benefit of the people; and they have the right at all times, to alter or reform the same whenever the public good may require it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON stated, on behalf of the Committee, that in making this report, they did not intend that it should comprise the whole bill of rights.  The Committee was forced, by the action of the House, to come in without proper time for deliberation and reflection, and report something.  It was the understanding of every member that they were to have the privilege of introducing other sections.  The first and second sections, introduced by the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Shannon,) he believed the committee had agreed should be incorporated in the bill of rights.  It was the proper place for them.  The declaration of the sovereignty of the people, emanates from the foundation of our Republic.  It has been adhered to ever since, and, he trusted, would be adhered to in all time to come.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK suggested whether it would not be expedient, as the bill of rights introduced by the Committee was imperfect, and new sections must come in, to proceed to act upon those reported.  Such additional sections as were deemed necessary, might then be moved.  It would afterwards remain to determine upon the relative order in which they should appear.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES proposed, as an amendment, to strike out the first section of the bill now before the Committee, and insert the first section of the Constitution of Iowa.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR observed that an amendment to any part, except what was directly before the House, was not in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the first section, proposed by Mr. Shannon,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to strike it out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS was in favor of the amendment suggested by Mr. Jones,  He considered the first section superfluous.  It merely secures to the citizens of the State certain privileges, of which this Convention has no power to deprive them.  It is only by their own act that they can be legally dispossessed of those privileges.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE rose barely to say, that he was opposed to striking out this article.  He considered it an essential principle to be incorporated in a bill of rights.  It takes precedence of all others, and places those that follow it in a higher point of view.  He trusted it would be retained.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After some discussion on the order of amendments, the question was taken on the first section proposed by Mr. Shannon, and it was adopted; the question then being on the second section,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD moved an amendment, which he stated was a literal copy of the second section of the bill of rights of Virginia.  There was some difference between the phraseology of this section and that of the section before the Committee.  It was in the following words:</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  That all power is vested in, and consequently derived from the people; that magistrates are their trustees and servants, and at all times amenable to them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON had carefully examined the Constitutions of the different States, Virginia included, and had been unable to find a more terse, comprehensive, and appropriate section than that which he had proposed.  He did not perceive what Mr. Ord's amendment added to it, or in what respect it was superior.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD explained the difference.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS thought Iowa had the advantage in this case.  She said all in one clause that was contained in the two clauses proposed.  He would vote against the amendment of his colleague (Mr. Ord.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then being on Mr. Ord's amendment, it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the second section proposed by Mr. Shannon, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The next question was on the first section of the report of the committee, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  No member of this State shall be disfranchised, or deprived of any of the rights or privileges secured to any citizen thereof, unless by the law of the land, or the judgment of his peers.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to strike out the word "member," and insert "citizen."  He considered the whole section superfluous, but desired that it should appear in the most acceptable form.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON suggested the word "inhabitant," which amendment was accepted by Mr. Botts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK observed that the clause was properly worded.  The term "inhabitant" would apply to a certain class of people who were not entitled to the rights of citizens, but who were entitled to protection as inhabitants.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES objected to any such interpretation.  The reading of the section is, "no <HI REND="italics">member</HI>
196.sgm: of this State shall be disfranchised."  That is to say, no <HI REND="italics">citizen</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD supposed the word "member" referred not only to Indians, negroes, and Africans, but to citizens; and that the word disfranchised referred particularly to citizens.  "No member," either a citizen or a foreigner, Indian, negro, or African, "shall be disfranchised."  A citizen being the only member who who could be disfranchised, is therefore referred to by that word.  A citizen of the State of New York, by the commission of certain crimes specified in the statute books, is disfranchised by law.  This is intended to secure to him all the rights to which he is entitled, unless by his own act he is disfranchised.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  There is another view of this question.  Whether it is designed or not, the adoption of this section of the bill of rights would secure to certain classes, Indians and Africans, (if Africans are ever introduced here,) precisely the same rights that we ourselves enjoy.  There is no clause in relation to the introduction of slaves or any other class of men.  If you provide that no member of this State shall be deprived of the rights and immunities of a citizen, it is to be presumed that such member enjoys those privileges and immunities.  If you declare that no man shall be decapitated for a certain crime, it may reasonably be presumed that he has a head.  It must be clear, therefore, that that section proposed to be amended, was not designed by the mover to produce an effect of this kind.  The word "inhabitant" would not be proper.  Indians are inhabitants, but they do not enjoy those privileges in any portion of the United States; they are disfranchised.  Yet we declare here, that they shall not be disfranchised without due process of law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS thought the objections of the gentleman who had just taken his seat, to the word "inhabitant," were based upon an erroneous impression of the word "disfranchised."  Every inhabitant of this State is franchised.  It is not the elective franchise that is meant.  The term embraces the general rights of a freeman.  All classes of men possess rights and privileges.  An Indian has rights--he has a right to his life.  There can be no objection to the word "inhabitant."  If the gentleman is correct, and the inhabitant has no rights, of course he cannot be deprived of them.  He (Mr. Botts) would vote against the whole section, because he considered it entirely superfluous.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD could not agree with his colleague (Mr. Botts) as to the meaning of the word "disfranchise."  The popular meaning of the word "franchise" is the right of suffrage.  It is derived from the French, and it would be well to be sure of the precise meaning.  Words are things.  If this is true, we are giving to all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES said that, in France the word franchise is used to express a political right.  In the Constitution of Louisiana it is used in the same sense.  It refers to the right of suffrage.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD quoted from Webster's dictionary:  <HI REND="italics">Franchise</HI>
196.sgm:, N.  <HI REND="italics">Exemption from any onerous duty; privilege; immunity; right granted; a district to which a privilege or exemption belongs</HI>
196.sgm:; V. To <HI REND="italics">enfrachise--to make free</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT differed from his colleague (Mr. Ord) on one point.  If the word "disfranchised" has reference to the right of suffrage and nothing more, what is the meaning of the words following--"or deprived of any of the rights or privileges secured to the citizens thereof."  It appears from this, that the word must have reference to the whole community, and not to a particular class entitled to special privileges; for this class is afterwards defined by the term citizen.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS rose to rescue a good old English word from the hands of the enemy.  In the days of the Anglo-Saxons, a man who had been a serf, was made <HI REND="italics">frank</HI>
196.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">free</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN had some doubts as to the propriety of using this word.  He thought the shortest way of settling the question was to reject the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS suggested that if a gentleman was obliged to take a dose of physic, he had a right to make it as palatable as possible.  He intended to vote against the whole section.  To save time, however, he would withdraw his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to reject the first section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  This is a very excellent provision.  It is drawn up to cover certain rights.  The object is this.  There are two members of a community--one has several rights, another but a single right.  Neither of these members shall be deprived of the one right or of the several rights, unless by the law of the land or the judgment of his peers.  The person possessing but a single right cannot deprived of it except in the same way with the individual who has several rights.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN could not see how a man could be disfranchised of any of his rights except by the law of the land or the judgment of his peers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT would vote for Mr. Botts' amendment, and against the whole.  He thought it was the shortest way of accomplishing the object.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS stated that he had withdrawn his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE could see no necessity for telling people in a bill of rights that their rights are secured to them by law.  They understand that very well.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN asked if there was any Constitution, of all the States, containing anything about franchise, except that of New York.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD had looked over the whole thirty Constitutions, and had found none.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said it was taken verbatim from the Constitution of New York.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER thought it a matter of no importance where it came from.  He was opposed to its adoption.  We designate in this Constitution who are entitled to the right of franchise.  Having given that right, no one under our system of government can be deprived of it except by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON was of opinion that the section defined itself.--"No member shall be disfranchised or deprived of any of the rights or privileges secured to any citizen."  This does not refer to the single right of voting or the elective franchise.  It includes all the rights and privileges secured to citizens.  There can be no understanding here as to the previous existence of those rights.  It is for the very purpose of creating a fundamental law of the land to determine them, that this Convention is now assembled.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON had but a word to say in regard to this section.  It is admitted that there is nothing improper in it.  Objection is made to it on the ground that all American citizens know they possess these rights and privileges, without a formal statement of the fact.  It is necessary, however, that not only citizens should be protected in the enjoyment of their rights, but all who are inhabitants of the State.  Besides a large proportion of the citizens of California have had no opportunity heretofore of knowing so much about the rights and privileges of American citizens, and the protection given to all classes under our laws, as they are now about to have.  It is necessary that they should see upon the face of this Constitution that their rights are to be secured to them.  It will be a guarantee that they will not be deprived of such rights except by the law of the land or the judgment of their peers.  There are foreigners in this country who are entitled to the protection of our laws.  That of itself is a consideration of great importance.  If there is no harm in this provision, and it can do the least possible good, it should be permitted to remain in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN objected to it, not because it was improper, but because everything inserted in this Constitution should be proper, and no negative.  Louisiana had the same descriptive population unacquainted with our laws.  He would also refer to Arkansas, Missouri, and Florida.  Is there anything of the same kind in their Constitutions?  Because it happens to be in one Constitution, it is not necessary to put it in ours.  It is a precedent that should not be established.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  Suppose we pass this provision in the bill of rights, will it not cramp our action hereafter?  Other sections must come up defining who are entitled to certain rights.  Here you declare that no citizen shall be deprived of any of his rights or privileges unless by due process of law.  Particular classes must necessarily be deprived of the right of suffrage.  You proceed in another section to deprive them of that right.  This is not due process of law.  If such a provision is necessary at all, it cannot properly be introduced in this part of the Constitution.  It must be incorporated in that portion which defines the classes entitled to the right of suffrage.  He (Mr. Semple) would therefore vote for the rejection, with the view of considering the proposition in its appropriate place.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK was in favor of having this in the bill of rights, and for this reason.  That nothing should be introduced into the Constitution or the laws of this country, which would disfranchise any person, who, under a particular law, has the right of citizenship.  He had heard gentlemen say that under the Mexican law, there is a class who have the right of elective franchise, and he knew they in favor of prohibiting them from the enjoyment of this right.  He considered the bill of rights the proper place for this section.  In another part of the Constitution it would be easy to determine who were entitled to the right of suffrage, without reference to this.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN wished to know what class under the Constitution of Mexico did the gentleman refer to.  Was it the Indian population?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK stated that the Indians could not vote; but that there was a portion of the population having Indian blood in their veins who were entitled to that privilege.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS renewed his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to strike out the latter clause--"except by the judgment of his peers."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD was not quite satisfied that the meaning of the word franchise was thoroughly understood.  It seemed to him that the latter part of the clause covered the whole ground.  The word "disfranchised" might be stricken out altogether, leaving the other portion of the section to stand.  He therefore moved the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  No inhabitant of this State shall be deprived of his rights or privileges, unless by the law of the land or the judgment of his peers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES expressed surprise at one argument urged in favor of this section; that the original citizens of this country require to be told that they are entitled to the rights of citizenship.  He believed it was no more necessary to tell them that than it was to tell him.  It might be a very charitable concession to award to them in a bill of rights the privileges of citizenship; but he would remind gentlemen that these privileges were already guarantied to them by the treaty of peace and by the Constitution of the United States.  It was unnecessary to patent their rights by a declaration of this kind.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment of Mr. ORD, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment of Mr. BOTTS, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the first section as reported by the Committee,</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, it was stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee then rose, reported progress, and asked leave to sit again.  Report accepted and leave granted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON, from the Committee on Rules of the House, submitted a written report, which, on motion of Mr. GILBERT, was laid on the table, subject to call on Monday morning at 10 o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS desired to draw the attention of the House to a state of things that existed with regard to the Secretaries.  They were up until twelve o'clock every night, preparing manuscript copies of the reports for the House.  There was no printing press.  This was a burden that ought not to fall upon the shoulders of these gentlemen.  He therefore moved the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The resolution was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the House then took a recess till 3 o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 3 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole on the special order of the day.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question came up on the second section of the report of the Committee, and it was adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  The right of trial by jury shall be secured to all, and remain inviolate forever.  But a jury trial may be waived by the parties in all civil cases, in the manner to be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS thought this the place in which Virginia might appear most appropriately.  One of the most eloquent and beautiful clauses in the Constitution of Virginia, was the following, in the bill of rights.  He proposed it as a substitute for the third section reported by the Committee:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That religion, or the duty which we owe to our Creator, and the manner of discharging it, can be directed only by reason and conviction, not by force or violence; and, therefore, all men are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK remarked that this left out a very important provision contained in the article from the Constitution of New York, in regard to witnesses appearing in court.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON was decidedly opposed to the amendment.  He could see no objection to the section as reported by the Committee.  It is plain and explicit.  It not only guarantees to every man his rights in matters of religion, but protects the community from any violation of the peace, and from all acts of licentiousness calculated to impair the well-being of society, or infringe upon the dignity of the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS remarked, that under the clause reported by the Committee, a declaration might be made that the Roman Catholic religion is inconsistent with the safety of the State.  He wanted to prohibit the Legislature from making such a declaration.  He wanted a bill of rights to declare, what the bill of rights of Virginia does, in the most appropriate and beautiful language--the right of man to worship in his own way.  The one does it--the other does not.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD said that the gentleman from Virginia, (Mr. Botts,) was evidently not acquainted with the history of the new sects in the State of New York, or he would see the propriety of the restrictions contained in the section reported by the Committee.  There have been sects known there to discard all decency, and admit spiritual wives, where men and women have herded together, without any regard for the established usages of society.  It was for this reason that the clause was put in the Constitution of New York.  No such thing as an attempt to limit the Roman Catholics to any fixed rules of worship was intended; but it was deemed necessary that society should be protected from the demoralizing influence of fanatical sects, who thought proper to discard all pretentions to decency.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was taken on the amendment of Mr. Botts, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposition of the Committee, and it was adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  The free exercise and enjoyment of religious profession and worship, without discrimination or preference, shall forever be allowed, in this State, to all mankind; and no person shall be rendered incompetent to bear witness on account of his opinions on matters of religious belief; but the liberty of conscience hereby secured shall not be so construed as to excuse acts of licentiousness, or justify practices inconsistent with the peace or safety of this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the fourth section reported by the Committee,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to amend it by introducing, after the words "public safety," the words "in the opinion of the Legislature," as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The privilege of the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER was opposed to leaving to the Legislature the power to suspend the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON was clearly of opinion that the proposed amendment was no improvement upon the original section.  The only way the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm: can be suspended, is by the Executive of the State.  He is the only person who can declare the country under martial law; and this power of suspending the writ is given to him for obvious reasons.  It would be impossible, in many cases, for the Legislature to be convened at a proper time.  It is only in cases of invasion, or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS felt that it was a very idle business to attempt to amend the report of this mammoth Committee.  He was aware that a majority of those present were always ready to support it.  Nevertheless, he begged that gentlemen would consider for a moment what they were doing.  Did they know what it was to suspend the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN read from the Constitution of the United States the following clause:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"The privilege of the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON thought the gentleman's principles (Mr. Botts') beautiful enough in theory, but he was afraid they would be found rather inconvenient in practice.  Instances have occurred where the suspension of the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT conceived that the question was not as to the necessity of this power, but as to the propriety of placing it in the hands of the Executive.  He preferred giving it to the Legislature, as less liable to abuse it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD had very serious objections to the section reported by the Committee, and moved the following amendment, which was accepted by Mr. Botts:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The privilege of the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK considered the last amendment quite as objectionable as the first.  He was in favor of fixing this matter definitely in the Constitution, and not leaving it to the Legislature.  A very serious objection, is the fact that the Legislature cannot provide for emergencies which it knows nothing about.  How can it anticipate under what circumstances the public safety may be in danger?  In cases of rebellion or invasion, it would be impossible for the Legislature to become acquainted with the facts, and provide proper measures, in time to meet the difficulty.  The Executive, from his position, has a better opportunity of acquiring this knowledge in advance, and without waiting for the action of the Legislature, he has power under this provision to take such immediate measures as the public safety may require.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT urged the necessity of proceeding cautiously in this matter.  It was one of incalculable importance, involving the best interest of the people.  Were gentlemen willing to strike out upon this new tack, and leave this sacred writ in the hands of every new Legislature that might think proper to alter it.  He appealed to their good judgment to let it stand as it stands in the Constitutions of twenty-nine States of the Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS remarked that, while he was represented as the enemy of this sacred writ, he went further than its dearest friends.  They were willing that it should be suspended at the pleasure of a single individual; he was unwilling that it should be suspended at all.  He would go for prohibiting any power from suspending it--either the Executive or the Legislature; but if such a provision was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>41</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The fourth section, as reported by the Committee, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the fifth section of the report,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER moved to strike it out.  He wanted no legislative enactments in a bill of rights.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion to strike out was decided in the negative, and the section was adopted without debate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The sixth section was then read, and also adopted without debate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 7th section, reported by the Committee, being under consideration, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>When private property shall be taken for any public use, the compensation to be made therefor, when such compensation is not made by the State, shall be ascertained by a jury, or by not less than three commissioners, appointed by a court of record, as shall be prescribed by law.  Private roads may be opened in the manner to be prescribed by law; but in every case the necessity of the road, and the amount of all damage to be sustained by the opening thereof, shall be first determined by a jury of freeholders, and such amount, together with the expenses of the proceeding, shall be paid by the person to benefitted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD said he considered such a section entirely out of place in the Constitution.  It should be upon the statute books.  He therefore moved to strike it out and substitute the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The power of suspending laws, or the execution of the laws, ought never to be exercised, but by the Legislature, or by authority derived from it, to be exercised in such cases as this Constitution or the Legislature may provide for.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES wished a division of the question on the motion to strike out, and the proposed substitute.  He was opposed to the section reported by the Committee.  The subject of private roads comes peculiarly within the province of the Legislature.  The pages of the Constitution should not be encumbered with regulations in regard to local improvements.  It is a subject belonging to the statute books.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON was also opposed to interfering with the regulation of private roads.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK stated that the object of this section was to carry out that of the preceeding section.  The two are intimately connected.  "Nor shall private property be taken for public use, without just compensation."  There are cases, such as those enumerated, which it was thought necessary to provide for.  He need not tell gentlemen of the abuse of the legislative power in New York.  This very article resulted from it.  It was there determined in Convention that the abuse of power on this subject by the Legislature, was such as to require this restraint.  The section, as reported, may not be well worded; but there seems to be an obvious necessity for some provision of this kind.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN was of opinion that the section should be stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Is this in the Constitution of New York?  If so, I shall vote for it.  I have a very great desire to be in a majority, for the novelty of the thing.  I confess, however, that I can seen no connexion between a McAdamised road and a bill of rights.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being taken on the first clause of Mr. Ord's proposed amendment, it was decided in the affirmative, and the section ordered to be stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the second clause of Mr. Ord's amendment, to insert as above, Mr. Ord withdrew the same.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the following section, and it was adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>8.  Every citizen may freely speak, write, and publish his sentiments on all subjects, being responsible for the abuse of that right; and no law shall be passed to restrain or abridge the liberty of speech, or of the press.  In all criminal prosecutions or indictments for libels, the truth may be given in evidence to the jury; and if it shall appear to the jury that the matter charged as libelous is true, and was published with good motives, and for justifiable ends, the party shall be acquitted; and the jury shall have the right to determine the law and the fact.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The ninth section, as reported by the Committee then came up, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No law shall be passed abridging the right of the people peaceably to assemble and to petition the government, or any department thereof; nor shall any divorce be granted, otherwise than by due judicial proceedings, nor shall any lottery hereafter be authorized, or any sale of lottery tickets be allowed within this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved to strike out all after the word "thereof."  He did not approve of mixing up in a bill of rights, lottery tickets, divorces, and the right of the people to peaceably assemble and petition the Government.  He objected to the theory of creating a bill of rights to legislate on the future Government of this State.  California is yet a Territory.  While taking the first step in the first movement to form the first fundamental law of the new State, it would be improper to insert legislative enactments for her government, five, ten, or twenty years hence.  He proposed the following (being the 20th section of the bill of rights of Iowa) as a substitute for the entire section:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The people have the right freely to assemble together to consult for the common good, to make known their opinions to their representatives, and to petition for redress of grievances.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MR. BOTTS suggested, instead of <HI REND="italics">petitioning</HI>
196.sgm: for the redress of grievances, that the people have a right to <HI REND="italics">demand</HI>
196.sgm: it.  The bill of rights has already declared that all power is inherent in the people.  Shall the people petition their own servants and public trustees?  It is high time to discard the phraseology which belongs to the old system of petitioning a superior power.  The same power that enables the people to govern themselves, surely gives them a right to <HI REND="italics">remedy</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD moved to amend the amendment by inserting instead thereof, the following as a substitute therefor:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The people have a right, in an orderly and peaceable manner, to assemble and consult upon the common good, give instructions to their representatives, and to request of the legislative body, by the way of addresses, petitions, or remonstrances, redress of the wrongs done them, and of the grievances they suffer.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD subsequently withdrew his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to amend the amendment of Mr. Shannon, by substituting therefor the 20th section of the bill of rights of the Constitution of the State of Iowa, in the words following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The people shall have the right freely to assemble together to consult for the common good, to instruct their representatives, and to petition the legislature for redress of grievances.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Jones' amendment to the amendment of Mr. Shannon was agreed to, and as thus amended, the substitute for the original section was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the Committee rose, reported progress, and obtained leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by Rev. Senor Antonio Ramirez.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Journal of yesterday was read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Report of the Select Committee on "Rules and Orders for the government of the Convention," was taken up and read.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to strike out the 30th rule, and to substitute therefor the 127th rule of the House of Representatives of the United States, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No standing rule or order of the House shall be rescinded or changed without one day's notice being given of the motion therefor.  Nor shall any rule be suspended, except by a vote of at least two-thirds of the members present.  Nor shall the order of business, as established by the House, be postponed or changed, except by a vote of at least two-thirds of the members present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being taken, the motion was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The report of the Committee, thus amended, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE submitted the following, which was adopted:</P>
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196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The PRESIDENT appointed, as the Committee under the foregoing resolution, Messrs. Moore, Sutter, Hill, Ord, and Reid.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN submitted the following, which, on motion of the same gentleman, was ordered to lie over:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole.  Mr. Lippett in the Chair.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The tenth section of the report of the Committee being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Any citizen of this State who may hereafter be engaged, either directly or indirectly, in a duel, either as principal or accessory before the fact, shall forever be disqualified from holding any office under the Constitution and laws of this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD spoke in favor of the section, and Messrs. PRICE, McCARVER, HASTINGS, SHANNON, and BOTTS against it, on the ground that it was properly the subject of legislative action.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being taken on the section, it was rejected by a vote of 12 to 18.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The eleventh, twelfth and thirteenth sections of the report were then adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>11.  All laws of a general nature shall have a uniform operation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>12.  The military shall be subordinate to the civil power.  No standing army shall be kept in up by the State in time of peace, and in time of war no appropriation for a standing army shall be for a longer time than two years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>13.  No soldier shall, in time of peace, be quartered in any house, without the consent of the owner, nor in time of war, except in the manner prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE submitted, as an additional section, the following, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P>14.  As all men are entitled to equal political rights, representation should be apportioned according to population.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the fourteenth section of the Committee's report, and it was adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>14.  No person shall be imprisoned for debt in any civil action on mesne or final process, unless in cases of fraud; and no person shall be imprisoned for a militia fine in time of peace.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS submitted the following as an additional section:</P>
196.sgm:<P>15.  No bill of attainder, <HI REND="italics">ex post facto</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Which was agreed to by a vote of 21 to 8.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 15th section of the report of the Committee being under consideration, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Foreigners who are, or who may hereafter become, residents of this State, shall enjoy the same rights, in respect to the possession, enjoyment, and descent of property, as native-born citizens.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to substitute the word "inheritance" for the word "descent," and to insert the word "permanent" before the word "residents."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LARKIN moved to amend the amendment, by striking out the word "residents," and inserting the word "citizen."  The motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL moved to amend the amendment of Mr. Jones, by striking out the word "permanent" before the word "resident," and substituting therefor the words " <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE moved to strike out the entire section.  The motion was decided in the negative, yeas 11, nays 25.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Jones' amendment, as amended, was then agreed to; and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved to insert, as an additional section, the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Neither slavery nor involuntary servitude, unless for the punishment of crimes, shall ever be tolerated in this State.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARVER moved to amend the amendment, by adding thereto the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Nor shall the introduction of free negroes, under indentures or otherwise, be allowed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After debate as to the propriety of a division of the two questions, Mr. CARVER withdrew his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Shannon's amendment then being first in order, Mr. HALLECK, after debate in reference to the particular portion of the Constitution which the provision should appear in, moved that "a declaration against the introduction of slavery into California shall be inserted in the bill of rights," Mr. Shannon temporarily withdrawing his amendments to enable Mr. Halleck to make the motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion of Mr. Halleck was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON then again submitted his amendment, and after further debate as to the expediency of submitting the question to the people in a separate article, the proposed section was <HI REND="italics">unanimously adopted</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee rose, reported progress, and obtained leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT submitted the following, which was considered and adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The President appointed, as the Committee under this resolution, Messrs. Wozencraft, Price, and Hastings.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, from the Committee appointed to report "a plan or a portion of a plan for a State Constitution," made a further report in writing, being Article II of the proposed Constitution; which was read, and on motion referred to the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS submitted a resolution, that when Spanish copies are ordered of any papers before the Convention, the Secretary shall be authorized to contract for the same, as in the case of English copies ordered under a previous resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The President decided that the previous resolution referred to, embraced all necessary authority, and that the Secretary was already fully empowered by that resolution to contract for Spanish as well as English copies.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention then adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by the Rev. Mr. Willey</P>
196.sgm:<P>Journal read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN called for the consideration of his resolution offered yesterday, providing for the appointment of a committee to report the ways and means of defraying the expenses of the State Government which might be adopted by this Convention.  A question as to the order of business arose, and it being decided that the resolution was in order,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that his sole object in offering the resolution, was to collect necessary and important information.  It was absolutely essential that the House should ascertain how the means of supporting this government after its adoption, are to be obtained.  Other means must be provided to pay the expenses, than by taxing the people of California.  The Government of the United States should bear the expenses of the State government for a number of years after its adoption.  Fourteen of the thirty States of the Union--all the new States, except Texas--have had the benefit of territorial government.  The expenditure of public money in sustaining territorial governments has been immense.  There never was a Territory, except California, that had not large appropriations to sustain it.  When Louisiana was purchased from France, the first thing after the ratification of the treaty was a territorial government.  The same was the case with Florida, a Territory purchased from Spain under very similar circumstances to this country.  Florida had the benefit of twenty-four years territorial <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved to amend the resolution, by striking out after the word "report," the words " a plan to defray the expenses," and to substitute therefor the words "on the ways and means of defraying the expenses."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment was accepted by Mr. GWIN, and the resolution adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The President appointed as said Committee, Messrs. Gwin, Hobson, and Stearns.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the Convention resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Lippitt in the Chair.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS moved the following as an additional section:</P>
196.sgm:<P>As the true design of all punishment is to reform and not to exterminate mankind, death shall never be inflicted as a punishment for crime in this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I do not know, sir, what favor this question may meet with here--whether it will have a single supporter but myself.  It has, however, found many supporters at home, in the United States; I believe, in every State of the Union.  And, sir, the time is fast approaching when this great principle will be engrafted into the laws of all the different States.  My opinion is, that this new State should adopt it, and that it should be incorporated in the bill of rights.  It is evident to my mind that we have not the right to take human life.  I arrive at this conclusion from these premises: First, we have no rights, as a Government, other than those derived from the people themselves.  If it be true, then, that the people have not that right, they cannot transfer it.  What, as individuals of the community, they do not possess, they cannot transfer to the Government.  No individual, sir, has the right to take human life, unless in self-defence.  We acknowledge this as a starting point.  It is conceded as a general principle.  If an individual is assailed by an enemy, and his life endangered, he slays his assailant.  He is acquitted by the laws; he is justified by the community.  But if he take the life of a fellow-man without such provocation, he cannot be pursued by his fellow-man, and, in cold blood, slain.  No individual possesses this right, and hence no individual can transfer the right to a Government.  Life is taken; the party is arraigned long after the act is committed.  The Government, in cold blood, pursues, arrests, and murders the criminal.  Why can the Government, the representative of individuals, do this, when the individuals themselves cannot do it?--when it is admitted that no right can be delegated by individuals which they do not possess?</P>
196.sgm:<P>But, sir, I will not detain the House.  I merely wish an expression of opinion on the subject, and I hope the article will be adopted.  Perhaps I am hoping against hope; yet I must say, that in practice, as well as in theory, the principle of taking human life, as a punishment for crime, is wrong.  Our books are full of instances of innocent persons being executed, who are charged with the crime of murder, and, eventually, it is ascertained, entirely to the satisfaction of the law, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Some would argue, undoubtedly, that the great object of punishment is to deter--to prevent the commission of crime.  That is true; it is one great object; but a greater one, or at least as great, is to reform.  These are the two great objects--to prevent the commission of crime, and to reform the criminal.  The latter object is defeated if death be inflicted as a punishment.  It may be argued that the infliction of death would deter to a greater extent, from the commission of crime, than imprisonment during life.  Sir, I do not conceive this to be the case.  Let every man put it to his own heart, and view the subject for himself, and should he ever be so unfortunate as to be convicted of murder, whether innocent or guilty, (for he may be convicted, although innocent,) I venture to say he would greatly prefer the punishment of death to imprisonment during life.  I hope this article may be incorporated in the bill of rights.  With these remarks, I submit it to the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER seconded the resolution, not because he believed the House would adopt it, or that it could be adopted here, but because he considered the question entitled to a fair consideration.  If the gentleman (Mr. Hastings) would devise a plan by which criminals could be properly punished in this country, he would go with him; but as California is situated at present, it is impracticable.  The construction of penitentiaries would be enormously burdensome.  In Iowa prisons were built, but the State could not defray the expense, and was obliged to set the prisoners at liberty.  As to the right to take human life, it is very questionable whether we have that right; but as it has been a practice ever since the world was created, perhaps it would be as well to let it rest awhile longer.  It may be that it is a good old principle established by the experience of ages.  He would vote against the resolution, not because he was opposed to it, but because he considered it impracticable to accomplish the object under existing circumstances.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed section, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD submitted the following as an additional section:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  That perpetuities and monopolies are contrary to the genius of a republic, and shall not be allowed; nor shall any hereditary emoluments, privileges, or honors, ever be conferred in this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE could not permit the proposed section to pass without a few remarks.  It involves a question of great importance--the equal rights of mankind.  It should be in the Constitution.  Monopolies should be prohibited.  No class of men should continue from generation to generation to enjoy privileges given to them by the Legislature, which are not conferred under general law.  The principle of monopolies includes banking privileges.  The Legislature should have no power to grant charters or privileges to certain men to the exclusion of others.  He was opposed to the banking system, as not only contrary to republican principles, but injurious to the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK thought the subject properly came in another part of the Constitution.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES considered the proposed section one of much importance.  It contains a declaration of great general principles, and involves great consequences.  A provision prohibiting banking or other incorporations would come very well under the general provisions.  But a declaration of the genius of a Republic in relation to those equal rights which we claim for all citizens, would come more appropriately in the bill of rights.  A declaration of principle may be either positive or negative.  There have been introduced into this bill of rights many negative declarations; but this is a great positive principle--that no man shall have any rights which are not possessed by the citizens generally.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed section, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD offered the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  Every person has a right to bear arms for the defence of himself and the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER moved to amend by saying, "provided they are not concealed arms."  He did not think, however, that this was a proper subject for the Constitution.  No attempt should be made to prevent the Legislature from regulating matters of this kind.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD was of the same opinion.  To make a positive declaration that a man has not this right would be null and void, inasmuch as it would be in opposition to the Constitution of the United States, which provides that "a well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS was surprised that the gentleman from New York (Mr. Sherwood) should object to any provision here, because it was contained in the Constitution of the United States.  After taking half-a-dozen provisions from that Constitution, word for word, such an objection came with rather a bad grace.  He (Mr. Botts) would himself prefer having this provision under the legislative head.  A bill of rights is a general declaration; the Constitution is a specific declaration.  It is an admitted rule of construction that the bill of rights, or preamble, is of inferior force, and succombs to the Constitution.  If there be in the Constitution a clause which conflicts with the bill of rights, the latter falls to the ground.  He (Mr. Botts) desired to see all great principles involving the rights of citizens brought into direct operation in the body of the Constitution.  He saw no necessity for mere declarations which could have no force or effect.  For this reason he had voted against the subject of monopolies; and for the same reason he would vote against this.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD was not aware of having voted in the bill of rights for any provision which was directly secured to the people of California by the Constitution of the United States.  But if he had done so, it was with the good example before him of the gentleman from Monterey, who had voted for a provision in regard to the law of attainder.  That provision he would find in the Constitution under the limitation of the powers of Congress.  It was introduced here to limit the powers of the Legislature.  But Mr. Ord's proposition directly touches the rights of every citizen.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and both the amendment, and amendment to the amendment, were rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD submitted the following amendment as an additional section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 17.  The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses, papers, and effects, against unreasonable seizures and searches, shall not be violated; and no warrant shall issue but on probable cause, supported by oath or affirmation, particularly describing the place to be searched, and the papers and things to be seized.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to amend the latter part of the amendment by inserting "persons" instead of "papers," so as to read, "and the persons and things to be seized."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS presumed it was a mere clerical error.  Papers and things would just amount to "things and things."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD accepted the amendment.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said this section, as amended, was word for word from the Constitution of the United States, 4th article.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER objected to it in the bill of rights.  He thought it properly belonged to another part of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed amendment, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD offered the following as an additional section:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 18.  Treason against the State shall consist only in levying war against it, adhering to its enemies, or giving them aid and comfort.  No person shall be convicted of treason, unless on the evidence of two witnesses to the same overt act, or confession in open court.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS proposed to strike out the latter clause, commencing "No person shall be convicted of treason," &amp;c.  He thought treason should stand on the same footing with any other crime, and should be proved to the satisfaction of a jury.  It is well known, and is often the case, that circumstantial evidence is the strongest in the world.  It was said by one of the ablest jurists, that it is that kind of evidence which cannot lie.  By this clause two witnesses are required to prove the overt act, when it can be proved without any.  It is a provision which might often prevent crime from being punished.  Besides, if you do not punish a man except upon the evidence of two witnesses, for treason, why will you permit him to go to the gallows for murder, except upon that evidence?  The principle is either true or false.  If you adopt it in one case, why not adopt it in all?  Yet is there a member of this House who would be in favor of saying no crime shall be punished except upon the evidence of two witnesses?  It is a strong incentive to crime to say in this Constitution, that treason, the greatest of crimes, shall have this advantage over all others; and that the prisoner may go scot free, unless this provision is complied with.  He (Mr. Botts) would read a sentence from Blackstone in relation to the punishment of high treason.--[ <HI REND="italics">See Blackstone on high treason</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN considered the Constitution of the United States better authority than Blackstone.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment of Mr. Botts, to strike out the latter clause, and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The original amendment was the adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER had an amendment which he desired to offer as an additional section.  It was in the following words:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 19. The Legislature shall, at its first session, pass such laws as will effectually prohibit free persons of color from immigrating to and settling in this State, and to effectually prevent the owners of slaves from bringing them into this State for the purpose of setting them free.</P>
196.sgm:<P>He deemed this necessary because the House had already made a provision prohibiting the introduction of slavery, the object of which he thought would be defeated by a system already in practice.  He had heard of gentlemen having sent to the States for their negroes, to bring them here, on condition that they should serve for a specified length of time.  He was informed that many had been liberated with this understanding.  After serving a few years, they were to be set loose on the community.  He protested against this.  If the people of this Territory are to be free against the curse of slavery, let them also be free from the herds of slaves who are to be set at liberty within its borders.  He wished to have the sense of the House on this question.  If the subject was neglected now, it would soon be necessary to alter the Constitution.  Illinois, this question was laid before the people in a separate article, and a majority of twenty thousand of the voters of that State supported it.  Have we not greater reason to fear the introduction of free negroes here, than they had in Illinois?  The slave owner, possessed of a hundred negroes, can well afford to liberate them, if they engage to serve him for three years.  What is to support them after that?  Are they to be thrown upon the community?  He believed that if any State in the Union required protection from this class of people, it was California.  It is the duty of gentlemen to make provision in this Constitution against the introduction of negro labor, as well as prohibit the introduction of slavery.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT said:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. President: We have declared, by a unanimous vote, that neither slavery nor involuntary servitude shall ever exist in this State.  I desire now to cast my vote in favor of the proposition just submitted, prohibiting the negro race from coming amongst us; and this I profess to do as a philanthropist, loving my kind, and rejoicing in their rapid march toward perfectability.</P>
196.sgm:<P>If there was just reason why slavery should not exist in this land, there is just reason why that part of the family of man, who are so well adapted for servitude, should be excluded from amongst us.  It would appear that the all-wise Creator has created the negro to serve to serve the white race.  We see evidence of this wherever they are brought in contact; we see the instinctive feeling of the negro is obedience to the white man, and, in all instances, he obeys him, and is ruled by him.  If you would wish that all mankind should be free, do not bring the two extremes in the scale of organization together; do not bring the lowest in contact with the highest, for be assured the one will rule and the other must serve.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I wish to cast my vote against the admission of blacks into this country, in order that I may thereby protect the citizens of California in one of their most inestimable rights--the right to labor.  This right is not only valuable, but it is a holy commandment--"by the sweat of thy brow shalt thou earn thy daily bread."  I wish to inculcate this command, and encourage labor.  I wish, so far as my influence extends, to make labor honorable; the laboring man is the <HI REND="italics">nobleman</HI>
196.sgm:<P>I desire to protect the people of California against all monopolies--to encourage labor and protect the laboring class.  Can this be done by admitting the negro race?  Surely not; for if they are permitted to come, they will do so--nay they will be brought here.  Yes, Mr. President, the capitalists will fill the land with these living laboring machines, with all their attendant evils.  Their labor will go to enrich the few, and improverish the many; it will drive the poor and honest laborer from the field, by degrading him to the level of the negro.  The vicious propensities of this class of population will be a heavy tax on the people.  Your officers will have to be multiplied; your prisons will have to be doubled; your society will corrupted.  Yes, sirs, you will find when it is too late that you have been saddled with an evil that will gall you to the quick, and yet it cannot be thrown off.  You can prevent it now by passing this section.  It should be done now.  Do not wait for legislative enactment--the Legislature may, and doubtless will, pass laws effectually to prevent blacks from coming, or being brought here, but it will be an extended evil even at that date.  When this Constitution goes forth without a prohibitionary clause relative to blacks you will see a black-tide setting in here and spreading over the land; you will see a greater curse than the locusts of Egypt.  This is no fancy sketch--it is a plain assertion, based on a just knowledge of things, which requires no gift of prophecy to foresee.  If you fail to pass this bill you will have cause to revert to my assertions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The future, to us, is more promising than that of any State that has ever applied for admission into the Union.  The golden era is before us in all its glittering splendor; here civilization may attain its highest altitude; Art, Science, Literature will here find a fostering parent, and the Caucasian may attain his highest state of perfectibility.  This is all before us.  It is within our reach; but to attain it we must pursue the path of wisdom.  We must throw aside all the weights and clogs that have fettered society elsewhere.  We must inculcate moral and industrial habits.  We must exclude the low, vicious, and depraved.  Every member of society should be on a level with the mass--able to perform his appropriate duty.  Having his equal rights, he should be capable of maintaing those rights, and aiding in their equal diffusion to others.  There should be that equilibrium in society which pervades all nature, and that equilibrium can only be established by acting in conformity with the laws of nature.  There should be no incongruities in the structure; it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:should be a harmonious whole, and there should be no discordant particles, if you would have a happy unity.  That the negro race is out of his social sphere, and becomes a discordant element when among the Caucasian race, no one can doubt.  You have but to take a retrospective view, and you need not extend your vision beyond our own land to be satisfied of this fact.  Look at our once happy republic, now a contentious, antagonistical, discordant people.  The Northern people see, and feel, and know, that the black population is an evil in the land, and although they have admitted them to many of the rights of citizenship, the admixture has acted in the political economy as a foreign, poisonous substance, producing the same effect as in physical economy--derangement, disease, and, if not removed, <HI REND="italics">death</HI>
196.sgm:<P>I will trespass on the patience of the House no further, Mr. President, than to express the wish that this clause may become an article in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that this was clearly a legislative feature of the Constitution, and should come up in the legislative department.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER had no objection to letting it come up in another part of the Constitution, but as other provisions of a similar character had been placed in the bill of rights, he thought that was the proper position for it.  He would, however, withdraw it, with the understanding that it should come up for consideration in the legislative department.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD had another amendment to offer, providing that no power of suspending the laws shall be exercised, unless by the Legislature or its authority.  It was the same in substance as the amendment which he had offered the other day.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS objected to the proposition.  He was opposed, in the first instance, to giving either the Executive or the Legislature the power to suspend the writ of habeas corpus, but he preferred, of the two evils, that this power should not be placed in the hands of a single individual.  He hoped he was not forbidden to doubt even the propriety of some of the provisions in the Constitution of the United States.  What would be the interpretation of this clause, if adopted in this Constitution?  That the laws of this State, which are, in part, the Constitution, may be suspended by the Legislature; that the Constitution itself may be suspended.  Of course, it cannot be the laws passed by the Legislature that are referred to, because the Legislature has a right to suspend or repeal its own laws.  It is unnecessary to say that the Legislature has power to suspend its own laws.  The right to make laws gives it the right to suspend or repeal them.  What other laws of the land are there, which nobody but the Legislature can suspend.  There is but one other set of laws--those contained in your Constitution.  It is, therefore, inevitable that the Legislature may suspend the laws of this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE asked if the gentleman (Mr. Ord) would withdraw the amendment, and let it come in as a section at the final passage of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD thereupon withdrew his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD submitted the following as an additional section, which was rejected:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 19.  All persons shall, before conviction, be bailable, by sufficient sureties, except for capital offences, where the proof is evident or the presumption great.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD offered the following, which was rejected:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That no free Government, or the blessing of liberty, can be preserved to any people, but by a firm adherence to justice, moderation, temperance, frugality, and virtue; and by a frequent recurrence to fundamental principles.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The last section of the report being now under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>20.  This enumeration of rights shall not be construed to impair or deny others retained by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to amend by striking out and inserting the following, from the bill of rights of Arkansas:</P>
196.sgm:<P>This enumeration of rights shall not be construed to deny or disparage others retained by the people; and to guard against any encroachments on the rights herein retained, or any transgression of any of the higher powers herein delegated, we declare that everything in this article is excepted out of the general powers of Government, and shall forever remain inviolate; and that all laws contrary thereto, or to the other provisions herein contained, shall be void.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS proposed to amend the amendment.  As his present proposition was the only definite one which he had offered in this bill of rights, he hoped it would be treated with some degree of indulgence.  It was not to be found in the bill of rights of New York, or Iowa, or Arkansas; there was that objection to it, but he believed the spirit of it was broached in them all.</P>
196.sgm:<P>As constitutions are the instruments by which the powers of the people are delegated to their representatives, they ought to be construed strictly, and all powers, not expressly granted, should be taken to be reserved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>He (Mr. Botts) considered the original section picked up by the Committee extremely imperfect.  He imagined the Committee had found it somewhere in the Constitution of New York or Iowa.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK stated that it was the closing article of the bill of rights of Iowa.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS suggested that it was probably the people of Iowa who got it in that way.  He submitted to the House, whether this devotion to the particular States from which gentlemen happened to come, was proper here.  No man reverenced the feeling more than himself--attachment to the place of his nativity.  But may not this feeling be carried too far?  Should not gentlemen on this floor remember that they are no longer citizens of New York, or Missouri, Iowa, or Michigan, but citizens of California.  This Convention should not reject the experience of others that had gone before it.  It should draw wisdom from the spirit and meaning of all their constitutions, but not servilely copy them.  He did not see why this Convention was not as capable of being original as any other that had ever met.  He hoped gentlemen would not make a constitution like an old woman's spencer--composed of shreds and patches.  If the amendment which he proposed did not meet the views of the House, let them alter the phraseology, but let there be at least one original section in the Constitution.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS wished to know if the gentleman from Sonoma (Mr. Semple) meant to deny the right of the people to maintain their own power?  If such a doctrine was maintained on this floor, it should be recorded on the journal.  But he (Mr. Botts) thought he knew that gentleman too well in private life, to suppose that upon calm consideration, he would oppose, by his vote, the principle embodied in the last amendment.  The gentleman maintains that all power is in the hands of the people, and if they have not parted with it, it is there still.  No, sir; all power is in the hands of the people, whether they have delegated it to others or not.  The government is subservient to the Constitution, and the ministers of that government are the servants of the people.  They have no power except what they derive from the people.  All the power committed to their hands is delegated to them through the Constitution.  If it does not come through the Constitution, it does not come all.  The Constitution is the message of the people to their servants, and what they do not grant in that way, they do not grant at all.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER thought it would be very easy to make a constitution here that would take away one man's property and give it to another.  The bill of rights declares what powers the people have, and the Constitution of the State consists of restrictions, not of delegated powers.  The difference between the Federal Constitution and that of a State, is that the people of the States in whom all power is inherent, have delegated a certain portion of their State sovereignty to the General Government.  The Constitution of the United States, therefore, consists of expressed delegated powers.  The Constitution of a State is a constitution of restrictions.  By accepting it, the people agree not to exercise the powers therein expressly prohibited.  It is a constitution of restrictions that we should form here.  It is not questioned that the people have a right to pass such laws as they please; but the powers not enumerated here, remain in the hands of the people and their agents.  He (Mr. McCarver) could see no necessity for the amendment.  The bill of rights, already adopted, declares that all power is inherent in the people, and this covers the whole subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said if he understood the gentleman from Sonoma, (Mr. Semple,) the doctrine broached by him, that the people in their legislative capacity have a right to violate the Constitution, was such as he could not sanction.  He would like to see any man go back to his constituents after recording his vote in favor of such a monstrous doctrine.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE claimed to make a few additional remarks.  Although he had as high a regard for the will of his constituents as any gentleman on this floor, he wished it distinctly understood that he contended for the doctrine that the people have a right to do anything which is not a violation of the Constitution; and so long as he could record his vote against any declaration to the contrary, he would do so.  Whenever he was refused that liberty, he would resign his seat and tell the people he could serve them no longer.  He held that whenever the State of California is admitted as a State, her right to legislate for herself is beyond the reach of any other power; that it is beyond the reach of Congress; that Congress is inferior to the State Legislature, because the Legislature is the direct emanation of the people; that Congress is limited in its powers, while the Legislature is no further limited than by the desire of the people.  He would glory in recording his vote upon the principle that the Legislature of California, when formed, is the superior power, and not to be dictated to by any other power than that of the people who constituted it.  The difference between the Constitution of the United States and that of a State is exemplified in the very article under discussion.  The Federal Constitution is a limited Government, granted by certain sovereignties--that is to say by the sovereign people in their sovereign capacity.  The State <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN remarked that all the amendment declares is, that the powers not delegated are reserved.  If it went beyond that he would be unwilling to vote for it.  This is merely to protect the people from the violation of their rights.  The Constitution of the United States has no reference to the question under consideration.  There is nothing in this clause but a great declaration--that all power not specially delegated to the legislature is reserved to the people.  It has nothing to do with Congress--no reference either directly or indirectly to it.  It is a declaration embraced in every Constitution in the United States, and he (Mr. GWIN) would be unwilling to vote for a Constitution that did not contain it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE asked what Constitution contained it?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that he believed that it was in all.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK, in behalf of the Committee, (the chairman of which was absent,) stated that the article from the Constitution of Iowa was selected on account of its brevity.  It was to be found in four other Constitutions of the States, nearly in the same words.  He thought it could not be improved, and hoped that it would be adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS said it occurred to him that there was no necessity for further discussion on this subject, inasmuch as there appeared to be no necessity for the article at all.  Why declare that all rights not herein enumerated are reserved to the people?  Would it not be true without such a declaration?  Does the mere assertion make it any more true?  Gentlemen seem to be afraid that if they omit one right the people will loose it altogether.  He would not attempt to explain his conclusions, lest they might be misunderstood; and would therefore vote for any amendment to leave the article out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Botts' amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE said he was perfectly satisfied to vote for the amendment offered by Mr. Gwin.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN hoped the gentleman would pardon him.  He really thought he was opposed to the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS had just that objection to it--that two gentlemen having precisely opposite opinions could consistently vote for the same amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE did not perceive, upon a more careful examination of the amendment, that there was any difference of opinion after all between himself and the gentleman from San Francisco.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD thought the report of the Committee covered the whole ground.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment offered by Mr. Gwin, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the original section, being the 16th, as reported by the Committee, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the Committee then rose and reported the bill of rights to the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the question would be on the adoption of the report.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said it was not intended that the bill of rights should be adopted now.  He proposed that it should be recommitted to the Select Committee for the purpose of having it made complete and perfect for the future vote of the House, section by section, when the votes would be taken by yeas and nays.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER thought it necessary to make some disposition of it; and he presumed the proper course would be to let it remain in the House, to be called up at any future time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. MCCARVER, the report was received and laid upon the table, subject to call.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS offered the following resolution, which was unanimously adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention then adjourned to 12 o'clock to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 12, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In Convention, prayer by Rev. Senor Antonio Ramirez.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The journal of yesterday was read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GILBERT, it was</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The President appointed as the Committee, Messrs. Gilbert, Dent, and Tefft.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. HASTINGS, it was</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The President appointed, as the Committee, Messrs. Hastings, Sutter, Reid, La Guerra, and Rodriguez.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER submitted the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER said it was true the schedule was to be appended to the Constitution, yet it seemed to him there was no reasonable ground for not allowing it to go before a separate committee.  It would not conflict with the duties of any other committee, and some of the members of the House not engaged upon the business of the Select Committee already existing, could prepare a schedule for the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK desired that the proposed committee should consist of one member from each district.  He thought the districts should be all represented.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER preferred a small committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD hoped the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. McCarver) would not press his motion.  The Select Committee on the Constitution had already laid over a number of articles for the schedule.  He did not think it would be expedient to form another committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN differed entirely from the gentleman last up.  The resolution offered by Mr. McCarver had reference to the apportionment which had never come up in the Select Committee.  It was no portion of the duty of that Committee to report a schedule.  They might report certain provisions to be embraced in the schedule, but he did not think it was their duty to report a schedule, which is a separate and distinct portion of the labors of the Convention.  It evidently did not seem proper that one committee should have the whole labor to perform, while other members were going about doing nothing.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to amend the resolution by providing that a committee be appointed to report a schedule for the Convention, without reference to any particular portion.  His only object was to make it the duty of this committee to report all the legitimate material of a schedule for the action of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD said, that as there seemed to be considerable doubt as to what belonged to the Constitution and what should be embraced in the schedule, he thought the schedule should be referred to the Select Committee.  If another committee was appointed, the Constitution would be garbled and incomplete.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN was in favor of the resolution, and opposed to the amendment offered by the gentleman from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones.)  The original resolution referred a distinct question to a separate committee.  The question of the apportionment was one of vital importance.  It should have the fullest consideration from a committee unembarrassed by other duties.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK would merely ask one question, whether the committee proposed could do anything till the number of members was designated in the body of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER was not satisfied that the people of his part of the country would be willing to accept any report that the Select Committee might choose to make.  It was the largest committee he had ever heard of, in a body of this character.  Gentlemen who supported a measure in this committee, would be very apt to support it in the House; and having the majority, it would of course prevail.  There could be no impropriety in appointing a small committee, as proposed in the resolution.  When that committee made its report, there would be no member to say, you supported that measure in committee, and, therefore, must go for it now.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO remarked, that the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. McCarver) founded his argument on the ground, that each member of this grand committee, consisting of two delegates from each district, felt himself bound to sustain in the House whatever had been acted upon in committee; that consequently, having a majority in the House, they would carry any measure they thought proper to propose.  He (Mr. Noriego) ventured to assert that the members of that Committee considered themselves as free to give their votes on any subject in the House, as they did in committee.  Whatever they objected to there, they would as freely object to here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON said it appeared to him that this matter of the apportionment properly belonged within the body of the Constitution itself, and should not, therefore, be taken out of the hands of the Select Committee and consigned to another.  He contended that even if the House thought proper to appoint another committee, this subject should be embodied in the Constitution, and not in the schedule.  It would be impossible to know what to do, or what to place in this schedule until the Select Committee had reported.  He called the attention of the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin) to some precedents on this subject, as he seemed so extremely anxious to follow precedents.  In the Constitution of New York, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  Gentlemen seem to mistake entirely the ground upon which this resolution is based.  It is the duty of the Select Committee to apportion the number of representatives.  This special committee is to apportion the districts, and say how many representatives each district is to be entitled to.  This certainly will clash with the duties of the Committee already existing, because it is the business of that Committee to state the number of members that shall be sent to the Legislature; to fix the size and general organization of the legislative department of the Government.  That seems to me a sufficient reason why this resolution should not be acted upon now.  Until the report of the general Committee on that subject is made, it would be folly to appoint a special Committee to work entirely in the dark.  As to the fling made at the committee by the gentleman who last spoke, I consider his remarks entirely unwarranted, and unworthy of notice.  I would call his attention to the following quotation from Junius: "There are men who never aspire to hatred--who never rise above contempt."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I call upon the gentleman to put that down in writing.  I think, Mr. President, that any gentleman who is the subject of offensive remarks in a parliamentary body, has a right, with or without the permission of the House, to claim that those remarks shall be put down in writing, that the House may take such notice of them as they think proper.  Such, I believe, is the rule of all parliamentary bodies.  I wish them placed upon the journal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR.  There certainly is a rule prohibiting personal remarks from being made by any of the members.  It was hoped by the Chair that all such remarks would have been avoided; but where offensive remarks are made, they may, at the request of the gentleman, be placed upon the journal, by permission of the House.  The Chair is unwilling, himself, to have these remarks entered upon the journal of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I am merely referring, Mr. President, to that general rule which protects members of a parliamentary body from gross and insulting remarks from any member.  I rise to claim the protection of the House from such remarks, and, I believe, the first thing to be done is to require the Secretary to put those remarks down.  I call upon the Secretary to put them down.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I believe the general practice is to declare the remarks out of order.  The gentleman using the offensive remarks is called to order, and the House decides whether he has exceeded the parliamentary limits.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPETT.  With the permission of the House, I will read, from Cushing's Manual, a passage applicable to this case.  (Mr. Lippett then read the usage as laid down by Cushing)  The above is the course of proceeding established by writers of the greatest authority, and ought uniformly to be pursued.  It might, however, be improved by the member objecting to the remarks, requiring that the words shall be written down at once, and have them entered upon the minutes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The PRESIDENT.  The Chair will adopt the latter suggestion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I do not intend to retract or apologise for anything I said.  I had no idea a simple quotation would have raised such commotion in the House.  The gentleman had taken occasion to do what he had no right to do, to question the motives of every member of the Committee.  I have been laboring under sickness for some days, and did not wish to enter into any long argument on the matter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  Is the House to pause until this matter is disposed of, or are we to proceed?</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR is of opinion that this difficulty must be disposed of before the House can proceed to business.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I will read the remarks, as I have written them down.  I read them for correction: "The gentleman from San Luis Obispo says that the remarks of the gentleman from San Joaquin do not deserve to be noticed, and that he would call his attention to the following passage from Junius--`there are men who never rise to hatred, or reach beyond contempt.'"</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  If the gentleman was better acquainted with the works of Junius, he would not make that as a quotation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I am better acquainted with the duties of a gentleman than with the language of Junius.  Let the gentleman state the words himself.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I will state the words if the House desire it, but not at the instance of the gentleman.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO desired that those who did not understand the English language might be excused from giving any vote on this subject.  The question appeared to be respecting certain English words, which they did not understand, and they desired to be excused from voting.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Spanish delegation were accordingly excused from voting.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I want the words written precisely as I said them.  I referred to the gentleman's reflections on the course taken, and which probably would be taken, by the Select Committee on the Constitution, and I stated that his remarks were worthy of the following passage from Junius: "There are men who never aspire to hatred--who never rise above contempt."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS offered a resolution prohibiting members from indulging in personalities, and requiring them in such cases to apologize to the House.  He thought gentlemen had gone entirely too far in impugning the motives of members.  In the present case, both the gentleman who made the imputation, and the gentleman who threw it back, ought to apologize to the House.  He had been opposed to this Committee himself from the beginning; he had fought it tooth and nail; he had called it the great Committee and the mammoth Committee; but if he had cast any personal reflection upon the motives of members who composed it, he hoped the House would pardon him.  He was not aware of having done so.  He was ready to set the good example, if he had expressed himself improperly, of asking pardon of the House, which he now did in advance.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON suggested that the resolution be offered as an addition to the rules of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR was of opinion, that the rules of the House already existing were sufficient to sustain the object of the resolution.  Where two members are out of order, an apology from both is due to the House.  If in the opinion of the House, the gentleman who impugned the motives of the Committee, and the gentleman who threw back the imputation, were both out of order, it was their duty upon being called upon, to make an appropriate apology to the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN concurred in the remarks of the gentlemen from Monterey (Mr. Botts) on this subject.  He (Mr. Gwin) had seen the bitterest hatred and most ferocious controversy spring from a smaller matter than this.  Every gentleman here should bear in mind that this body is assembled for a great national object; and should be cautious not to wound the feelings of a fellow-member.  He hoped it would be a settled principle that no matter how much excitement--how much difference of opinion might exist, (for it was impossible to form a Constitution without severe collisions, in the heat of debate,) all personalities would be avoided.  If there are collisions, let them be mental and not personal collisions.  He was sure the gentleman who had made use of the words deemed offensive, would not hesitate to say, that if he had misconstrued the remarks of the member from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones,) he would withdraw them.  It is usual in cases of this kind, when one member takes exceptions to the remarks of another, for that member to demand an explanation from the gentleman who makes those remarks.  If the gentleman from San Luis Obispo had applied to the gentleman from San Joaquin to know whether he intended a personal reflection upon this Committee, and that gentleman had replied that he did, then the offensive words might probably be applicable.  That gentleman, however, took it for granted, without demanding any explanation, that the gentleman from San Joaquin was impugning the motives of the Committee.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT doubted very much whether there was any gentleman on this floor more anxious than he was to maintain good order and friendly relations between the members.  He insisted upon it that he had not now transgressed that principle.  He had borne many reflections upon his native State; but he had always kept his seat, in deference to those who were older and more experienced, and whose views he desired to hear in preference to giving his own.  In calling the attention of the House to the remarks of the member from San Joaquin, he did not conceive that he had gone beyond the legitimate bounds of debate.  If it was the opinion of the House that he had done so, he would cheerfully apologize to the House, but not to the gentleman, who, he conceived had impugned the motives of the Committee.  If it was not the intention of that gentleman to impugn the motives of the Committee, then, of course, the offensive quotation was not applicable to him.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES asked if it was possible that he, as a member from San Joaquin, in opposing the principle of allowing smaller districts an equal vote with his own in the formation of this Constitution, should be considered as impugning the motives of any person, or insulting any committee?  Was it possible that the right of speech was so far prohibited on this floor, that he could not advocate the principle incorporated in the bill of rights without having it said that he was impugning the motives of the members of this House who did not happen to represent so large a population as he did?  It was upon the broad principle that the representation here should be according to population, that he had based his remarks; and he had said what he believed to be true, and what he must believe to be true until convinced to the contrary.  It had been said upon the floor of this House, and out of the House, that members of this Committee had been called upon to sustain by their votes the reports of the Committee.  If such was the case, and he believed it to be true, were the people of San Joaquin to be told that they had no right to protest against such a principle as this?  He considered it to be one of their first rights, that they should not be cheated out of their representation in the Convention.  He would not say that it was intended by the appointment of this Committee to do this, but he maintained that no course should be adopted in the House which would have that effect.  He conceived that he had not done injustice to the Committee, because, if fault there was, the whole tenor of his remarks was to attribute the fault to the Convention.  He did not consider that he had injured the feelings of any gentleman on that Committee.  If there was any member who, perhaps, had a right to feel himself aggrieved, it was the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Shannon,) but he (Mr. S.) was too much of a gentleman to rise in his place and--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS here called the gentleman from San Joaquin to order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The PRESIDENT stated that he had seen with deep regret the effect of some very trivial disorders.  He had heard the Committee on the Constitution spoken of in various ways.  Sometimes it had been called the mammoth committee, which was by no means a respectful term; sometimes, the almighty committee, an equally disrespectful term; and various other epithets of opprobrium had been applied to it.  Under the impression that the members of this body had too a high a respect for themselves to cast such reflections upon the Committee as would give offence, the Chair was disposed to allow the fullest liberty of speech, not incompatible with the dignity of the House.  He regarded these remarks as made in a spirit of pleasantry, and with no intention of giving offence.  But it was now evident that too much liberty had been taken with the Committee, and he hoped that both the gentlemen (Messrs. Jones and Tefft) would follow the example of the gentleman from Monterey, and apologize to the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS objected to this view of the matter.  He had never apologized to the House for having called this a mammoth committee; but if the House said that there was anything personal in calling it a mammoth committee, he would amply apologize now.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR did not think it was personal.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD said that, in regard to the difficulty before the House, it seemed to him it could be adjusted in the simplest way imaginable.  If the gentleman from San Joaquin did not intend to impugn the motives of the Committee, he has liberty to make that statement to the House.  The gentleman from San Luis Obispo would undoubtedly meet it by the withdrawal of the offensive remarks.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  The gentleman from San Joaquin, as he conceives, has been grossly insulted by the gentleman from San Luis Obispo.  Is he to get up here and make an apology before that insult is withdrawn?  It is the duty of the House to make these members settle the difficulty here.  There should be no after settlement out of doors--no bloodshed resulting from what has transpired.  The majesty and the power of the House should be brought to bear this case, and it should be settled before these gentlemen are permitted to leave their seats.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR was of opinion that the gentleman from San Louis Opispo had apologized to the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said an apology to the House was not an apology to the gentleman who conceived himself insulted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPETT concurred with his friend from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood.)  He did not see any difficulty in regard to this matter.  The member from San Luis Opispo has already stated to the House that the occasion of his making the offensive remarks was his understanding that the Committee to which he belonged had been attacked, and the motives of the members impugned by what fell from the gentleman from San Joaquin.  The object, therefore, of the offensive remarks, was to throw back this imputation.  Now, it certainly does not appear that there was any intention on the part of the gentleman from San Joaquin to cast any reflection upon the motives of that Committee.  It would be a very simple matter then, for the gentleman from San Luis Obispo to state distinctly and formally to the House, that if the gentleman from San Joaquin did not intend, by anything he said, to impugn the motives of the Committee, he would withdraw his remarks.  The gentleman from San Joaquin makes that statement; the gentleman withdraws his remarks, and the whole difficulty is settled.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT remarked, that the gentleman from San Joaquin had already denied having intended any personal remarks to the Committee.  It was not necessary to call upon him again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE hoped his friend (Mr. Jones) would not require any apology here.  If there was any misunderstanding let it be settled out of doors.  He (Mr. Moore) would not trouble the House, if insulted, by asking any apology here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said it was for that very reason he wanted it settled here.  In all deliberative bodies, when a difficulty occurred, it was usual to close the doors.  Having had some little experience in legislative bodies, he knew the importance of settling questions of this kind before they were permitted to go beyond the House.  Another thing he wished to protest against, and that was, the sacredness of committees.  He desired that there should be unlimited debate on all questions.  This mammoth Committee was able to defend itself.  But personalities should be avoided.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD thought this matter might easily be settled in the mode indicated.  He desired that it should not be permitted to go out of the House.  He trusted that without further words the gentleman from San Joaquin would state exactly what he intended by his remarks.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR said the gentleman had already made that statement.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN then moved that the gentleman from San Luis Obispo be required to withdraw the offensive words.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT said it was strange that he should be called upon to apologize to the gentleman, after having explained the motive which actuated him in using those words.  If the gentleman from San Joaquin did not impugn the motives of the Committee, then the quotation had no bearing upon him.  It was only applied to him on that ground.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPETT moved that the House receive this statement as satisfactory.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE wished to know before this vote was taken, whether this reconciliation was entirely satisfactory to these gentlemen--whether there was anything left upon their minds for an out-door settlement.  He had not yet heard distinctly the perfect withdrawal of the offensive words, and the perfect acceptance of such withdrawal by the other gentleman.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES said the gentleman had apologized to the House, but not to him.  He did not take that as an apology.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK remarked, that when the words read as originally stated, the gentleman from San Luis Obispo had disclaimed applying them to the gentleman from San Joaquin, if that gentleman did not impugn the motives of the Committee.  As he (Mr. Jones) disclaimed having made this imputation, then the offensive words were clearly withdrawn, and the difficulty was settled.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN wished to know if the withdrawal of the remarks was satisfactory to the gentleman from San Joaquin.  [Mr. Jones said it was.]  He wished to know also, if the statement of the gentleman from San Joaquin, that he intended no personal imputation on the motives of the Committee, was satisfactory to the gentleman from San Luis Obispo?  [Mr. Tefft replied that it was.]  He (Mr. Gwin) then moved that the reconciliation be accepted by the House, which motion was adopted, and the difficulty was thus amicably adjusted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the resolution of Mr. McCarver--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said he would vote against it.  The apportionment was, to his mind, one of the most important features of the Constitution.  It was well known that he was opposed to the original formation of the Committee of twenty.  (He hoped there was nothing personal in that.)  But since it had been the pleasure of the House to form that Committee, he did not see how any portion of its work could, with propriety, be taken out of its hands.  He voted for the provision a few days since, that representation should be according to population.  He conceived that in doing so, he was giving instructions to this very Committee, to apportion the representation of this State upon that principle.  It had been well objected here, that it is utterly impossible that this single portion of the forming of the Constitution can be taken out of the whole and submitted to the action of a separate committee, whilst so much depending upon it is in the hands of another.  This is a portion that most requires concert and co-operation.  He hoped it would not be the pleasure of the House to adopt the resulution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the resolution was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, from a majority of the Committee on the Constitution, made a report, which was received and referred to the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN made a minority report from the same committee, which was received and referred to the same committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF THE WHOLE.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. LIPPETT in the Chair, on so much of the report of the Committee on the Constitution as relates to the right of suffrage.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first section of the report of the Committee being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  Every white male citizen of the United States, of the age of twenty-one years, who shall have been a resident of the State six months next preceding the election, and the county, in which he claims his vote twenty days, shall be entiled to vote at all elections which are now, or hereafter may be, authorized by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT moved to amend as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>After the words "United States," and before the word "of," insert, "and every male citizen of Mexico, who shall have elected to become a citizen of the United States, under the treaty of peace, exchanged and ratified at Queretaro, on the 30th day of May, 1848."</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT said he would read from the Treaty of Peace, a couple of sections which explained in full the reasons which induced him to offer the amendment:</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. VIII.  Mexicans now established in territories previously belonging to Mexico, and which remain for the future within the limits of the United States, as defined by the present treaty, shall be free to continue where they now reside, or to remove at any time to the Mexican Republic, retaining the property which they possess in the said territories, or disposing thereof, and removing the proceeds wherever they please, without being subjected, on this account, to any contribution, tax, or charge whatever.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Those who shall prefer to remain in the said territories, may either retain the title and rights of Mexican citizens, or acquire those of citizens of the United States.  But they shall be under obligation to make their election within one year from the date of the exchange of ratifications of this treaty; and those who shall remain in the said territories after the expiration of that year, without having declared their intention to retain the character of Mexicans, shall be considered to have elected to become citizens of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In the said territories, property of every kind, now belonging to Mexicans not established there, shall be inviolably respected.  The present owners, the heirs of these, and all Mexicans who may hereafter acquire said property by contract, shall enjoy, with respect to it, guaranties equally ample as if the same belonged to citizens of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. IX.  The Mexicans who, in the territories aforesaid, shall not preserve the character of citizens of the Mexican Republic, conformably with what is stipulated in the preceding article, shall be incorporated into the union of the United States, and be admitted at the proper time (to be judged of by the Congress of the United States) to the enjoyment of all the rights of citizens of the United States, according to the principles of the Constitution; and, in the meantime, shall be maintained and protected in the free enjoyment of their liberty and property, and secured in the free exercise of their religion without restriction.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It seemed to him (Mr. Gilbert) that the section, as reported by the Committee, providing that "every white male citizen of the United States shall be entitled to the elective franchise," did not cover the whole ground.  We wish to give every Mexican citizen residing in California, who becomes a citizen of the United States, the free right to vote.  Under the 9th article of the treaty it would seem that they are not in fact American citizens, but require some further action of Congress to make them citizens of the United States.  That article says: "shall be incorporated into the union of the United States, and be admitted at the proper time, (to be judged of by the Congress of the United States,) to the enjoyment of all the rights of citizens of the United States, according to the principles of the Constitution."  If the Congress of the United States had done its duty to this country, it would have passed a law at the last session, admitting these citizens to all the powers and privileges of citizens of the United States.  But, as it failed to do so, he (Mr. Gilbert) deemed it absolutely essential, in order to prevent any difficulty, that the amendment which he offered should be inserted in this clause.  The meaning of the word "white," in the report of the Committee, was not generally understood in this country, though well understood in the United States; but that objection would be remove by the adoption of his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said he had risen almost at the same time with his friend from San Francisco (Mr. Gilbert) to offer an amendment nearly, but not quite, indentical with that proposed by him.  It was clear that by the adoption of the clause reported by the Committee, citizens of Mexico would be excluded from voting before they were made citizens of the United States by the Congress of the United States.  His amendment was to insert the word "white" before "male citizens of Mexico."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said he was instructed by the Committee to introduce an amendment to the first section.  The reason why he did not do so, was because the amendment of Mr. Gilbert seemed to him to accomplish the object.  He would read the amendment: after the words "United States," and before the word "of," to insert the words, "and every person who was a citizen of California after the 1st of May, 1848."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that the Committee had made a report; they could not order it to be altered.  If any amendment was made to it, it must be made by the gentleman himself, (Mr. Norton.)  He (Mr. Botts) wanted to come to the main principle--that unless provision is made for these persons the clause does not admit <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO desired that it should be perfectly understood in the first place, what is the true signification of the word "white."  Many citizens of California have received from nature a very dark skin; nevertheless, there are among them men who have heretofore been allowed to vote, and not only that, but to fill the highest public offices.  It would be very unjust to deprive them of the privilege of citizens merely because nature had not made them white.  But if, by the word "white," it was intended to exclude the African race, then it was correct and satisfactory.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS had no objection to color, except so far as it indicated the inferior races of mankind.  He would be perfectly willing to use any words which would exclude the African and Indian races.  It was in this sense the word white had been understood and used.  His only object was to exclude those objectionable races--not objectionable for their color, but for what that color indicates.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT hoped the amendment proposed by the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) would not prevail.  He was confident that if the word "white" was introduced, it would produce great difficulty.  The treaty has said that Mexican citizens, upon becoming citizens of the United States, shall be entitled to the rights and privileges of American citizens.  It does not say whether those citizens are white or black, and we have no right to make the distinction.  If they be Mexican citizens, it is sufficient; they are entitled to the rights and privileges of American citizens.  No act of this kind could, therefore, have any effect.  The treaty is above and superior to it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN would like to know from some gentleman acquainted with Mexican law, whether Indians and negroes are entitled to the privileges of citizenship under the Mexican Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO undestood the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) to say that Indians were not allowed to vote according to Mexican law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that, on the contrary, it was because he believed they were, that the had offered the amendment.  He wished to exclude them from voting.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN asked the gentleman from Santa Barbara (Mr. Noriego) whether Indians and Africans were entitled to vote according to Mexican law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO said that, according to Mexican law, no race of any kind is excluded from voting.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN wished to know if Indians were considered Mexican citizens?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO said that so far were they considered citizens, that some of the first men in the Republic were of the Indian race.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN had learned from the gentleman from Santa Barbara (Mr. Stearns) that there were twenty thousand Indians in Mexico.  He wished to know whether these twenty thousand Indians were allowed to vote?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. FOSTER said that, according to Mexican law, very few of the Indian race were admitted to the right of suffrage.  They are restricted by some property qualification, or by occupation or mode of livelihood.  But they are considered Mexican citizens according to the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS remarked that if, by the treaty of peace, these persons are all entitled to vote, they could not be excluded by this Convention from the enjoyment of that right.  If they are not entitled to vote according to Mexican law, and hence according to the treaty, we should not allow them to vote.  It would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK trusted the motion would prevail, to defer the consideration of the subject.  He held different opinions from some of the gentlemen who had spoken, as to the Mexican law in relation to the citizenship of Indians.  He had supposed that Indians, in order to be entitled to the rights of citizenship in Mexico, were obliged to go through some form of naturalization, by which they became citizens.  He arrived at this fact from having seen papers in the possession of Indians, who had received grants of lands, in which they went through certain forms of naturalization.  He trusted the Convention would not act hastily in this matter; for he would be very unwilling to see the Indians of this country brought to the polls to vote in our elections.  At the same time, where there was here and there a good Indian, capable of understanding our system of government, he had no objection to making such provision as would entitle him to vote.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT had obtained some information in regard to this matter.  He was disposed to differ from the gentleman from San Jose, (Mr. Dimmick.)  The Mexican laws define, in the first place, what is a Mexican citizen; "any person born of Mexican parents, or under Mexican laws;" they declare that all Mexicans shall vote, having an income of $100 in labor, lands, &amp;c.  He (Mr. Tefft) would like to have further time to look into the Mexican laws, and, theretore, hoped the subject would be postponed.  He desired that the House should act advisedly, and according to the treaty of peace.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS had no objection to deferring the consideration of the clause.  He had no doubt in his mind that the statement made by the gentleman from San Luis Obispo (Mr. Tefft) was correct.  But there was one doctrine urged here, that really astonished him--that the treaty of peace between the United States and Mexico, or any other treaty, could prescribe to this Convention what persons it should make voters in the State of California!  The Congress of the United States could not do it.  Were gentlemen not aware of that fact?  They ought to be shouting hozannas to liberty, now that they were informed of it.  The States of this Union are free and sovereign.  They prescribe for themselves the right of suffrage.  Gentlemen need not look to the treaty of peace for authority; it is competent for the people of this country to declare that no man, unless he have black hair and black eyes, shall vote.  If that treaty had said, that none but the citizens of Mexico should vote, the Constitution of the United States prescribes that you shall fix your own elective qualifications.  It particularly guards you against the abuse of the powers exercised by Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN had been endeavoring to get all the information possible on this subject.  He had ascertained the fact, that by the passage of the amendment of his colleague, (Mr. Gilbert,) Indians would be permitted to vote.  He found, that in the Constitution of Texas, (a State somewhat similar in the character of its population to this country,) there is the following restriction:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"Every free male person who shall have attained the age of twenty-one years, and who shall be a citizen of the United States, or who is, at the time of the adoption of this Constitution by the Congress of the United States, a citizen of the Republic of Texas, and shall have resided in this State one year next preceding an election, and the last six months within the district, county, city, or town, in which he offers to vote, ( <HI REND="italics">Indians not taxed, Africans, and descendants of Africans, excepted</HI>
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196.sgm:<P>He did not think the descendants of Indians should be excluded, but the pure uncivilized Indians should not be permitted to vote.  It was stated to him, by an officer of the army, that in California there are a hundred tribes of Indians; that a few white persons control them; and that they would vote just as they were directed.  He did not wish to limit the portion of the population that was in the habit of voting--those having property qualifications--but the restriction should be distinctly understood and defined.  He would be in favor of saying, "Indians, but not the descendants of Indians."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS accepted the suggestion of the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin;) instead of the word "white," to insert, "and every male citizen of Mexico, Indians, Africans, and the descendants of Africans excepted."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT rose to say a word or two in reply to the remarks of the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts.)  He was willing to go as far as that gentleman in defence of State rights, and as far as any member in the House to protect the States from encroachments on the part of Congress, but he differed from him in the reading of this treaty, and in the reading of the Constitution of the United States.  He would call the gentleman's attention to the 6th article of the Constitution, section 2d:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"This Constitution, and the laws of the United States which shall be made in pursuance thereof, and all treaties made, or which shall be made, under the authority of the United States, shall be the supreme law of the land; and the Judges in every State shall be bound thereby, anything in the Constitution or laws of any State to the contrary notwithstanding."</P>
196.sgm:<P>This treaty is therefore the supreme law of the land.  It appeared to him that nothing could more definitely settle the question.  We cannot go beyond this treaty, and disfranchise any man who is admitted under the treaty to the rights of citizenship.  Perhaps, so far as regards the election of Governor and State officers, we might prescribe the rules of voting; but we cannot, in this instance, where the Constitution guaranties certain rights to these persons, who have become citizens of the United States under the treaty, deprive them of those rights.  The only question here is in regard to the proper time when they shall be entitled to vote, and the object of the amendment is to fix the time beyond doubt.  He wished to make no invidious distinctions as to color, but to abide by the treaty of peace and the Constitution of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS said that, upon further reflection, he presumed the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) would observe that if we do not recognize this treaty, no treaty of peace exist.  We are then at war with Mexico.  We have no treaty to protect us.  We are protected by no authority whatsoever but that of physical force.  We came here under this treaty; gentlemen sit in this Convention under this treaty; it is in virtue of this treaty alone that we are possessed of this territory.  If we carry our principle of State rights so far as to say we are wholly independent, and need not regard treaties of the United States, why not, with the same propriety, carry it further, and say we need not regard the Constitution of the United States?  If we violate the stipulations of this treaty, we violate the Constitution.  The gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) asserts that we have a right to declare that no man shall vote unless he have black hair and black eyes.  This is a principle of State rights that cannot be maintained in the present case.  We must include every citizen of Mexico which the treaty of peace admits to the right of citizenship.  It is impossible to arrive at any other conclusion, unless we violate the treaty.  If the principle be well founded, that we may exclude certain persons who are made citizens by the adoption of the treaty, and hence who are entitled to be regarded as citizens, may we not, with the same propriety, exclude every native Californian?  We cannot do it.  We dare not exclude one human being who was a citizen at the time of the adoption of that treaty.  Every man who was a citizen then, is a citizen now, and will be while he lives in California, unless he declares his intention to remain a citizen of Mexico.  Our Constitution must, therefore, conform to the treaty, or it is null and void.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS thought the doctrines which he had just heard urged were at least novel.  He had heard many federal doctrines, but never any like these.  He saw plainly, after all that was said about not having Whigs or Democrats here, that it was a shallow device.  A new party had come up--one beyond the extreme of federalism; a party that contends that there is a power in the Executive of the United States to make a treaty contrary to the provisions of the Constitution.  Were there any three men on this floor ready to record their names in support of this doctrine?  But he desired that his own position should be well understood.  He maintained that this treaty, so far as he knew, is binding in every clause, because it does not contradict the Constitution of the United States; it does not prescribe who shall be our voters.  If it had made those citizens of Mexico directly citizens of the United States, it would not have said that they should be voters of the State of California.  He granted, for the sake of argument, that these Indians are citizens of the United State, because they were citizens in Mexico.  The question is still open whether they shall be voters.  There are thousands of citizens of the United States who are not voters.  Gentlemen should not confound the words.  It does not follow that if a man be a citizen of the United States he shall be a voter.  Was it necessary for him (Mr. Botts) to speak two minutes to put down forever the monstrous doctrine that the treaty-making power can transcend and set at naught the Constitution of the United States; and, least of all, that a citizen of the United States must necessarily be a voter?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that in Virginia there are thousands who spend their lives and die without ever having the privilege of voting.  There is a property qualification required there, as also, he believed, in some other States of the Union.  As the gentleman (Mr. Botts) said, we could exclude all these Californians from the privilege of voting; but that is not our intention.  It would not be right or just.  This is a very important question.  If we permit every Mexican citizen to vote, under our free and liberal system of voting, we would enlarge the vote immensely to what it was under the former Government here.  For instance, there were certain laws, under the Mexican Government, that no man should vote unless he could read and write.  We are to declare who shall have a right to vote.  We only exercise the same privilege that was exercised by the previous Government.  Indians should be excluded, but not the descendants of Indians.  It must be by special enactment if they are permitted to vote.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS asked if the treaty did not design that those citizens referred to should be entitled to all the privileges of free citizens of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT said that according to the principles of the Constitution they should be admitted to all the rights and privileges of free citizens of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE had a different construction of this clause of the Constitution from some of his friends in the House.  His friend from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin) observed that there was a property qualification in some of the States.  He (Mr. Hoppe) admitted that; but at the same time it should be remembered that the States of the Union, and that of California, were admitted into our Republic in a different manner.  California was admitted by a treaty between the United States and Mexico.  Now we have taken a solemn obligation that we will support the Constitution of the United States.  That treaty gives the right to every Mexican citizen, who becomes thereby a citizen of the United States, to enjoy the freedom and privileges which we enjoy.  What does the Constitution say?  It says that all treaties made under the authority of the United States shall be the supreme law of the land.  Suppose we pass a law prohibiting Mexican citizens from the full enjoyment of the free elective franchise.  What will be the effect?  When this Constitution is presented to the Congress of the United States it will be rejected, because it is in direct conflict with the treaty of peace and the Constitution of the United States.  He (Mr. Hoppe) was prepared to vote in favor of Mr. Gilbert's proposition.  He thought the House was fully satisfied on the subject.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said it was very important that this matter should not be misunderstood.  The question raised by gentlemen as to the Constitution of the United States, is not applicable.  Louisiana was purchased precisely as the United States purchased California.  The very same words, in regard to citizenship, that you find in the treaty with Mexico, are in the treaty with France.  Yet when Louisiana formed a State Constitution, she put a restriction upon the right of suffrage; she declared that only such and such persons should vote; and if she violated the Constitution of the United States, she did so according to this construction.  In the old Constitution of Louisiana, it is provided, that no person shall be a representative who, at the time of his election, is not a free white male citizen of the United States, &amp;c.  So much for the representative; now for the voter.  Recollect that Louisiana was purchased from France, and that all the rights were guarantied by treaty to the citizens of Louisiana that are now guarantied to the citizens of California.  There was a great mixture of population in Louisiana as there is here.  The Constitution of that State says: "In all elections held by the people, every free white male, who has been two years a citizen of the United States, who has attained the age of twenty-one years, and resided in the State two <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>In regard to the property qualification, it should be strictly guarded.  Gentlemen had heard of the celebrated Plaquemine vote.  Vast numbers of votes were created there by buying up the public domain, and transferring it to parties who paid the taxes on it.  They were then voters.  It was certainly within the power of this Convention to impose such limitations as it thought expedient.  He (Mr. Gwin) was disposed to adopt the suggestion of the gentleman from Los Angelos (Mr. Foster,) who proposed that those Indians, and those only, who had the right of suffrage in Mexico, should be entitled to the same privilege here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, the Committee, without taking the question, rose, reported progress, and asked leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then adjourned to 8 o'clock, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 8 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Dimmick in the chair, on the report of the Committee on the Constitution relative to the right of suffrage.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The consideration of Mr. Bott's amendment to the amendment of Mr. Gilbert was taken up as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>To insert after the word "Mexico," and before the word "who," the words "Indians not taxed, Africans and the descendants of Africans excepted."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT said it appeared to him, that if the treaty of peace between the United States and Mexico destroyed the right of this House to prescribe the qualifications of the voters of California, a treaty could, upon the same principle, compel us to pass such regulations as it thought proper to prescribe.  It could, in other words, destroy the sovereignty of the State.  California makes application for admission into the Union on the same footing, and on the same conditions, with other States.  She applies, as a sovereign and independent State, exercising undoubted control over matters of this character.  No law that the Government of the United States has made, can interfere with her in the exercise of this right, without depriving her of her sovereignty.  He could not believe that the Government of the United States, at the time of the adoption of this treaty, contemplated establishing the qualifications of voters here; he could not believe that it contemplated the destruction of the sovereignty of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES had been absent during the debate to-day, and had therefore been unable to follow the subject.  According to his construction of the treaty, all those who were citizens of Mexico at the time of the adoption of that treaty, were to become citizens of the United States within one year, if they did not remain citizens of Mexico.  By article 8th, it is provided that--</P>
196.sgm:<P>"Mexicans now established in Territories previously belonging to Mexico, and which remain for the future within the limits of the United States, as defined by the present treaty, shall be free to continue where they now reside, or remove at any time to the Mexican Republic, retaining the property which they possess in the said Territories, or disposing thereof, and removing the proceeds wherever they please, without their being subjected, on this account, to any contribution, tax, or charge whatever.  Those who shall prefer to remain in the said Territories, may either retain the title and rights of Mexican citizens, or acquire those of citizens of the United States."</P>
196.sgm:<P>They may either retain the title and rights of Mexican citizens, or acquire those of citizens of the United States.  The treaty goes on to define the method by which they shall acquire the title and rights of citizens of the United States, in these words:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"But they shall be under the obligation to make their election within one year from the date of the exchange of ratifications of this treaty; and those who shall remain in the said Territories after the expiration of that year, without having declared their intention to retain the character of Mexicans, shall be considered to have elected to become citizens of the United States."</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The clause might possibly be subject to two constructions.  It might be said, that by choosing to become citizens of the United States they so became, or that they showed a disposition to become so.  He (Mr. Jones) thought the 9th article settled the question:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"The Mexicans who, in the Territories aforesaid, shall not preserve the character of citizens of the Mexican Republic, conformably with what is stipulated in the preceding article, shall be incorporated into the Union of the United States, and be admitted at the proper time (to be judged of by the Congress of the United States) to the enjoyment of all the rights of citizens of the United States, according to the principles of the Constitution; and in the meantime, shall be maintained and protected in the free enjoyment of their liberty and property, and secured in the free exercise of their religion without restriction."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now, the treaty provides, that they shall be incorporated into the Union, and be admitted at the proper time.  They must make application for admission.  You do not admit citizens into the Union, and makes them citizens of States by treaty.  This is a union, not of men, but of States.  It has been well said to-day, that a man might be a citizen of the United States, and still not have the right to vote.  It is not Congress that decides--it is the State.  The Constitution gives to the States the right to determine who shall be voters.  The State of Virginia denies to a great portion of its citizens the right of voting.  The State of Louisiana, until lately, did the same.  The State of Massachusetts requires that a man shall pay a stated tax in order to have the right.  He (Mr. Jones) held that the citizens of Mexico, as recognized by the treaty of peace and the Constitution of the United States, are fully represented on this floor, that they have, in accordance with their privilege, voted for members of this Convention, and are, therefore, as much represented as other American citizens; and that the Constitution has given to the Convention the right to declare what shall be the qualification of voters in this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS asked whether the Mexican law had been obtained on this subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES stated that he had the Constitutions of 1824 and 1836.  The Constitution, however, of 1843, established different rights of Mexican citizens, and consequently would govern all previous laws.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER could see nothing in the treaty to give this class of citizens the right of suffrage.  This Convention was perfectly competent to allow or deny them that right whenever it thought proper.  The usual mode is to require from those who desire to become citizens the oath of allegiance.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT was in favor of Mr. Gilbert's amendment.  He thought it covered the whole ground.  It permitted all those persons to vote who enjoyed that privilege under the Mexican laws.  Very few Indians were allowed to vote under Mexican law.  He was quite satisfied this amendment would meet with the approbation of those interested in the matter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE said that his reason for moving to strike out the words "not taxed," was, that the whole Indian race should be excluded from the elective franchise.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD presumed the motion to insert would render a motion to strike out unnecessary.  If the words were not inserted, they would be stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT wished gentlemen to reflect, that there are Indians by descent, as well as full-blooded Indians.  He supposed the majority of the members on this floor were not willing to deprive the descendants of Indians of the elective franchise.  Many of the most distinguished officers of the Mexican Government are Indians by descent.  At the same time, it would be impolitic to permit the full-blooded Indians who held property to vote.  Those who held property, would, of course, be taxed.  Capitalists could, for special purposes, make them purchasers of property.  He was, therefore, in favor of the amendment as first proposed--to exclude all Indians.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS desired to have the sense of the House in regard to the words "not taxed."  He was willing to accept that amendment, if it was the wish of the House; but not otherwise.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the proper course would be, to take the question on the amendment as it originally stood, and then on the words "not taxed," as an additional amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE remarked, that in the district of San Jose there were not less than two hundred Indians who would become taxable.  Was it proper that they should vote?  The consequences of such a provision would be most injurious.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said the gentleman from San Jose (Mr. Hoppe) could accomplish his object by withdrawing his amendment, until the vote was taken on the amendment of Mr. Botts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO desired to say a word in reply to the gentleman from San Jose, (Mr. Hoppe) who stated that there were at least two hundred Indians in that district, who would become taxable.  He (Mr. Noriego) requested that gentleman to place himself in the position of one of those Indians.  Suppose he had to pay an equal tax with all other persons, to sustain the expenses of the State?  Would it not be most unfair to deprive him of equal privileges, when he had to bear an equal burden?  The gentleman, he hoped, would readily perceive the great injustice of such a provision in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment offered by Mr. Botts, to Mr. Gilbert's amendment, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then being on the motion to strike out the words "not taxed,"</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT observed that it might be a weakness in him, but he had always entertained a peculiar deference for the Indians.  They were the original proprietors of the soil.  From them we derived it, and from them we derived many of the blessings which we now enjoy.  They have already been deprived of their original independence.  Why should we pursue them, and drag them down to the level of slaves?  It appeared to him that the Indians should enjoy the right of suffrage, and that they should not be classed with Africans.  He hoped the amendment of Mr. Gilbert, would remain without further alteration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER would vote for striking out the clause allowing Indians who paid taxes the right to vote.  He believed the privilege would be greatly abused.  Many men who wished to carry an election, would pay the taxes of the ranche, and induce the Indians to vote as he directed.  He was in favor of giving this class of people all the protection of our laws, but not the right of suffrage.  As a general thing, the Indian is illiterate, and incompetent to judge of the questions presented in an election.  If he pays taxes, he has an equivalent for it--the protection of the law.  By giving him the right to vote, he would in nine cases out of ten, be placed in the power of crafty and designing men.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the motion to strike out the words "not taxed," and decided in the affirmative--ayes, 25; noes, 15.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT said he could not in justice to his own feelings, allow the motion to pass, without expressing, with the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Dent) the deep sympathy which he felt for this unhappy race.  It might be a prejudice that had grown with his growth, and strengthened with his strength; but from his earliest youth, he had felt something like a reverence for the Indian.  He had ever admired their heroic deeds in defence of their aboriginal homes, their stoicism, their wild eloquence and uncompromising pride.  He was much pleased, when a resident of Wisconsin, to see incorporated in the Constitution of that State, a provision allowing Indians the privilege of voting.  He hoped this question would be considered calmly and dispassionately in all its bearings, and that gentlemen would not, by acting hastily, exclude all Indians, absolutely and entirely, from the right of suffrage.  Were gentlemen aware, that, because a man is two-thirds Indian, he is not an Indian?  Had they considered well the feeling that would go abroad among the native population of California, if unjustice was done to this class of people?  Has not injustice enough already been visited upon the Indian race?  They have been driven back from the haunts of civilization into the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE preferred retaining the words "all free white male citizens."  He could not think that any white man would object to this clause.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved further to amend the amendment of Mr. Gilbert, by striking out all after the word following, and inserting "Indians not taxed, Africans, and descendants of Africans excepted.  His amendment was the same as that of Mr. Botts, but he proposed inserting it in a different place.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said the gentleman was out of order.  The House could not vote upon the same question twice.  The House by its vote has already refused to incorporate these words in the section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question of order giving rise to discussion,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT said he thought that, in offering the amendment this morning, he had sufficiently explained the grounds upon which he did so.  To illustrate his design more clearly, he would read again the 9th article of the treaty, [ <HI REND="italics">see Art</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD disagreed with his friend from San Francisco (Mr. Gilbert) in regard to the construction which he put upon the right of citizenship.  A person may be a citizen of the United States, formerly a citizen of Mexico, but not necessarily a citizen of the new State of California, so far as regards the right of voting.  We are now attempting to establish the qualifications of voters, and we say that a great many good citizens of the United States shall not be voters.  Have we not the same right to say that those who were previously citizens of Mexico, but who under the treaty became citizens of the United States, shall not vote?  If we can debar those who have been previously citizens of the United Sates from this privilege, surely we can debar those who have been previously citizens of Mexico from the same privilege.  We do it in virtue of the right always exercised by the States, to determine the qualifications of their voters.  We say unless a man be a resident so many months, he shall not be a voter.  We may make it a property qualification.  These restrictions would of course debar a great many citizens of the United States from the elective franchise.  Gentlemen will not undertake to say, that because a person was a citizen of Mexico previous to the treaty, and under the treaty comes into the United States and becomes a citizen thereof, he has a right to vote, no matter what may be the restrictions imposed upon other citizens of the State, or of the United States?  In forming a new State, it is clear that we have a right to determine the qualifications of our voters; but we have no right to deprive any man of the common rights of citizenship.  We cannot deprive the Indian, or even the free negro of the right to hold <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>He objected to the amendment: "Indians, Africans, and the descendants of Africans, excepted."  What is meant by the descendant of an Indian, or the descendant of a negro?  Did the gentleman who offered the proposition mean to say that a man who has the least taint of Indian or negro blood shall not vote?  He had never heard such a doctrine in the States.  The word descendant means a person who descends in regular line.  He may be of mixed blood or full blood.  There is nothing specific in the term "descendant."  He (Mr. Sherwood) did not believe the Committee could adopt any better form than the words "white male citizen."  If the word "descendant" is more definite than "white," he would like to know in what particular.  We do not debar the Spanish, or the French, or the Italians from voting by the use of this word.  They are darker than the Anglo-Saxon race, but they are white men.  He was in favor of the distinct expression, "every white male citizen," as used in in the thirty different Constitutions of the Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE was of opinion that every Constitution in the States makes some provision of this kind.  He had a very distinct recollection of the words, "negroes, mulattoes, and Indians excepted," in the Constitution of Kentucky."  They had Indians there as well as here, and they were invariably considered free.  They never had been made slaves of, nor had they ever been allowed the privilege of voting.  He would suggest the same principle here.  He was opposed to taxing them without giving them all the rights enjoyed by others.  It is one of the principles laid down in the Declaration of Independence, that taxation and representation shall go together.  If, then, we levy a tax on the Indian, either a capitation tax or a tax on his property, he should by all means be represented.  He (Mr. Semple) believed that, although we might exclude the native Indian, it was beyond the reach of this Convention to exclude those who might be descended from the Indian race.  He saw no better way of settling the difficulty than by adopting the word "white" before male citizen, which is sufficiently explained in the courts of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT remarked that in so far as the word "descendant" was concerned, to which the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood) objected, he wished it understood that it was not a portion of his amendment; and he agreed with that gentleman that if we strike out the whole of this section as it stands, it is not necessary to insert in the proposed section the words of the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Shannon.)  It would certainly be of no importance, if this section was to stand "every white male citizen of the United States," to insert Indians, Africans, and the descendats of Africans excepted."  Those words were altogether unnecessary.  His (Mr. Gilbert's) intention, in proposing an amendment to the clause, was to prevent any question arising hereafter, from the wording of the treaty of peace, by which Mexican citizens might be debarred the privilege of voting.  He objected to the words "white male citizen" on the ground that they were not sufficiently explicit.  They might be very well understood in our courts, but it was necessary that every citizen should understand the provisions of this Constitution, without going into court to have them explained.  It <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE moved to strike out the words "not taxed" from the proposed amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the question having already been taken and decided on that portion of the amendment, it could not be brought up again.  It was, therefore, out of order, and not before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON insisted upon his right to have the question taken on the amendment as a whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided that the words "not taxed" were out of order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Shannon's amendment, modified in accordance with the decision of the Chair, and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the amendment offered by Mr. Gilbert,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LARKIN proposed to insert "Indians and Africans, and the descendants of Africans to the fourth generation excepted."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS cordially approved of the proposition.  It would make certain that which would probably be uncertain.  Even in our courts there is some uncertainty on this subject.  He thought it well that this assembly should determine the meaning of any doubtful term which it might use.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD was of opinion that no other construction could be placed upon the word white than this: if an Indian is more than half Indian, he is an Indian; if he is more than half white, he is white.  With respect to Africans, he believed that all after the fourth generation are considered white in most of the States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE asked who was to determine, on the day of election, the various grades of color?</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on Mr. Gilbert's amendment, as amended, it was adopted--ayes 20, noes 20--the Chairman giving the casting vote in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then being on the filling up of the blanks,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved to insert "six" in the first blank.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE moved the word "twelve."  He believed the rule was to put the question first on the highest number.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY suggested that the next election ought to be embraced in this section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS remarked that there would be very few to vote if twelve months was the time fixed upon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE said it was well known to almost every member of this Convention that there are a vast number of persons who come to California for no other object than to remain one working season and dig gold.  They are in the mines, and expect to remain but a single season.  About the 1st of November your annual election comes on.  These persons, who have only been in the country three or four months previous to that date, who are on the very eve of leaving California, are qualified voters.  In this just towards the permanent population of California?  Is it politic to permit persons to vote who come here with the avowed intention of digging gold to carry it away and spend their wealth elsewhere?  What interest have they in the welfare of the State?  All persons who are residents of California, no matter when they arrived, at the time of the reception of the Constitution, are, of course, and should be, entitled to vote.  The provision, therefore, making twelve months residence necessary, would not affect a single person who was here previous to the adoption of the Constitution.  It would only operate upon those who come into the country after the adoption of the Constitution, and become a permanent portion of the population.  It seemed to him that twelve months was short enough a period to entitle them to the privilege of voting.  If his own brother was to come here, he would be unwilling to see him participate in the elections any sooner.  It is a necessary protection to the ballot-box that no man shall vote unless he is willing to remain in the country twelve months.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK would merely call attention to a single point.  This section of the Constitution, as reported, does not affect the first election.  It has reference only to the second and those that follow.  The time of residence necessary for the first election must be defined in the schedule, not in the body of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN was astonished that the gentleman from Sonoma, (Mr. Semple,) should insist upon twelve months.  There was not a State in the Union that required so long a time.  The gentleman is in favor of every man who is now a citizen of California voting on the Constitution, but he excludes hereafter all persons who may become citizens, because they are not citizens for twelve months.  He (Mr. Gwin) had heard much said about persons after acquiring welth, returning to spend it elsewhere; but he believed it was seldom the case.  People generally invest their money where they earn it.  Every inducement should be held out to emigrants to remain here, and one of the strongest inducements would be the enjoyment of the right of suffrage.  Where thousands come, it is common to see but very few leaving.  He would vote for three, four, five, or six months.  He thought six months ought to be the limit, but he would prefer three.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS said that two considerations were involved in the proposition of the gentleman from Sonoma (Mr. Semple.)  The first seemed to be, that in forming this Constitution, we return it to the same people who elected us as delegates.  Are we to declare in the Constitution, that they shall not vote upon its adoption?  Most members on this floor occupy their seats in virtue of votes given by constituents, who have resided here less than three months.  When this Constitution comes before them for their ratification, they are not entitled to vote.  But we are relived from this difficulty, because there is to be inserted in some other portion of the Constitution a clause saying, that the people are entitled to vote at the first election.  Will it not be argued, as it was when the proposition to appoint a committee for the purpose of reporting a schedule was made, that the schedule in which this provision is to be made, is a portion of the Constitution?  We cannot say twelve months here and two months there.  We should insert in this article itself, the words, "after the first election."  He therefore submitted a motion to that effect.  Such limitation of time could then be made as the House thought proper.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT said it appeared to him, that Gen Riley had settled this matter in his proclamation.  All who are privileged to vote at the first election are made known in the words of that proclamation.  This Constitution will not be a law until it first receives the sanction of a majority of the people, and is ratified by Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on filling the first blank with the words, "twelve months," and decided in the negative, 15 to 22.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS proposed "nine months."  Rejected, 13 to 24.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved "six months."  Adopted, yeas 30, noes not counted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved to fill the second blank (in relation to a residence in the county) with the words "thirty days."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL moved "ninety days."  Rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Norton's motion and it was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. HOPPE the first section was further amended by inserting after the word "county," "or district."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first section, as amended, was then adoped, by yeas 26, noes 10, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  Every white male citizen of the United States, and every male citizen of Mexico, (Indians, Africans, and descendants of Africans excepted,) who shall have elected to become a citizen of the United States under the treaty of peace exchanged and ratified at Queretaro, on the 30th day of May, 1848, of the age of twenty-one years, who shall have been a resident of the State six months next preceding the election, and the county or district in which he claims his vote, thirty days, shall be entitled to vote at all elections which are now, or hereafter may be, authorized by law.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The following sections were then adopted without debate, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  Electors shall, in all cases except treason, felony, or breach of the peace, be privileged from arrest on the days of elections, during their attendance at such election, going to, and returning therefrom.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  No elector shall be obliged to perform militia duty on the day of election, except in time of war or public danger.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then coming up on the fourth section of the Committee's report, Mr. GILBERT moved the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  For the purpose of voting, no person shall be deemed to have gained or lost a residence by reason of his presence or absence while employed in the service of the United States; nor while engaged in the navigation of the waters of this State, or of the United States, or of the high seas; nor while a student of any seminary of learning; nor while kept at any almshouse, or other asylum, at public expense; nor while confined in any public prison.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment was rejected without debate, and the section of the Committee adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  No person in the military, naval, or marine service of the United States, shall be considered a resident of this State by being stationed in any garrison, barrack, or military or naval place or station within this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to amend the report of the Committee, by inserting between the 4th and 5th sections the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No person living in California, who has left his family elsewhere, shall be considered as a resident of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK wished to know if the persons, to whom the gentleman had reference, were not included under the head of "idiots and insane persons," in the 5th section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT thought it rather unfair that a gentleman who enjoyed the blessing of having his family here, should be so hard upon those who, like himself, had left theirs at home.  The gentleman (Mr. Botts) ought to be content with his good fortune, without compelling others to take a trip home to the United States for their families before they could enjoy the privilege of electors, at the risk of losing it after all by absence from the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS had really supposed that there would not be a dissenting voice to this very plain proposition.  As to the difficulty of the gentleman from San Joaquin, Mr. Wozencraft,) he would answer him as others had been answered--we will provide for him in the schedule.  In serious earnest, the object of the amendment was to have some guarantee, that persons who are to assist in making our laws will remain in the country long enough to be subject to the operation of those laws.  He did not wish any man to have a vote in the formation of a law, and then leave the country to let that law operate on others.  The peculiar condition of California renders such a provision most desirable.  There should be a community of interest among those who are privileged to vote.  The fact that people leave their families elsewhere when they come here, is some evidence, at least, that they do not intend to remain.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SUTTER protested against this proposition.  It would be very hard, if he should, after his long residence here, be deprived of his right to vote because his family was elsewhere.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS thought one more provision ought to be introduced--that all single men should be married in three months.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on amending the report, by inserting the additional section, as proposed, and the amendment was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the 5th section reported by the Committee, it was adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>5.  No idiot or insane person, or persons convicted of any infamous crime, shall be entitled to the privilege of an elector.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to insert the following between the 5th and 6th sections:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Laws shall be made for ascertaining, by proper proofs, the citizens who shall be entitled to the right of suffrage hereby established.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The question being taken, it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the last section of the report of the Committee, and it was carried, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>6.  All elections by the people shall be by ballot.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Thereupon, on motion, the Committee rose and reported the "right of suffrage" to the House with sundry amendments.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the report was received, and ordered to lie on the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by Rev. S. H. Willey.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The journal of yesterday was read, amended, and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN submitted certain maps of California, which were referred to the Committee on the Boundary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON submitted the following, which was adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Dimmick in the chair, upon the report of the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being taken on the first section, it was adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The powers of government of the State of California shall be divided into three separate departments, the Legislative, the Executive, and the Judicial; and no person charged with the exercise of powers properly belonging to one of these departments, shall exercise any function appeartaining to either of the others, except in the cases hereinafter expressly directed or permitted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the next section, and it was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P>LEGISLATIVE DEPARTMENT.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The legislative power of this State shall be vested in a Senate and Assembly, which shall be designated the Legislature of the State of California, and the style of their laws shall commence in the following manner: "The people of the State of California, represented in Senate and Assembly, do enact as follows."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The second section being then under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  The session of the Legislature shall be--, and shall commence on the first Monday in January next ensuing the election of its members, unless the Governor of the State shall, in the interim, convene the Legislature by proclamation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MR. GWIN moved that the blank be filled with the word "biennial."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved the word "annual."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE had no idea that we should be able to make a Constitution here, which would last twenty or thirty years without alteration.  The peculiar condition of the country is such as to render modification in legislation necessary, to meet the progressive changes of circumstances that must take place.  He believed that the Legislature, by meeting only once in two years, would not be able to prepare such a code of laws as would be sufficient for California.  For a few years, at least, it should meet annually.  If a proviso was inserted, that after the first five years, the sessions should be biennial, then there might possibly be no objection.  Gentlemen should remember that we have no organized code of laws.  We are changing from one form of government very different from ours, to another, requiring a complete legislative reorganization.  The Legislature must establish an entire code of laws.  It will be impossible to keep members of the Legislature more than two or three months at the seat of Government.  The rapid progress of affairs in this country, and the great value of time, would render a longer session impractible.  The first winter the Legislature will pass some of the most necessary laws, and probably the next improve and increase the code.  If the people <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said his motion had direct reference to one great question--the enormous expense entailed upon the public, by frequent elections and frequent legislatures.  He knew by experience that the legislative action of all new bodies is hasty, and if we expected to have a correct system of laws, we would be compelled to establish a commissioner or commissioners to prepare a system for the consideration of the Legislature.  It is impossible for us to adopt a system of laws, by frequent sessions of the Legislature.  In the present state of the country, the expense of frequent elections will be so extraordinary, as to give rise to great inconvenience.  The power of convening the Legislature, in all cases of necessity, rests with the Governor.  It can be assembled when required.  Experience has shown the evils of excessive legislation.  Laws should be well tested before changes are made.  All the new States have biennial Legislatures.  We commence with Texas--a Territory somewhat similar in the character of its population to this.  The sessions of its Legislature are biennial.  So also, with Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas, Tennessee, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa, Wisconsin, and Michigan.  All the new border States have biennial sessions.  Look at the difference in the expense there and here.  A member of the Legislature gets but two dollars a day in Iowa.  The Legislature is not permitted to sit more than fifty days, at that rate.  If its sessions are prolonged beyond that period, the members get but one dollar a day.  It has been well demonstrated by experience, that in new States, the hasty passage of laws is a source of great evil.  Of all the States in the confederacy, California requires most an efficient system of laws, and she is the last State that should multiply the expenses of government, by having frequent meetings of the Legislature.  The Government, in the most economical form, will be expensive enough.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT said he had a resolution to offer which he thought would meet the difficulty of the gentleman from Sonoma (Mr. Semple.)  He notified the House that at a suitable time, he would submit a resolution for the appointment of a commission of three persons to form a code of laws, to be submitted to the Legislature at its first session.  He was in favor of biennial sessions.  He thought they would be sufficient, and would avoid the difficulty arising from excessive legislation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON did not see that we had any power to appoint such a commission as the gentlemen proposed.  What authority had members of this Convention to appoint three persons to form a code of laws for the Legislature?  He thought it absolutely essential that the sessions of the Legislature should be annual.  We have no laws here.  It has been impossible to ascertain what the law is, or to enforce it.  The Mexican system, as retained under the existing civil government, is repugnant to the feelings of American citizens.  It is too late for them to learn any other system than to which they have been accustomed.  The Legislature of California will therefore have a great deal of work to do.  It is said that in new States, there is great danger of hasty legislation.  He would ask if there is as much danger in the case of a Legislature that meets once a year, as in that of one that meets once in two years?  If the business of two years is crowded into one session, is there not more danger of imperfect legislation, than when there are two sessions within the same period, to perform the same work?  It is very desirable that the Legislature should meet and proceed at once to form a system of laws, so that the people may know what laws they are living under.  This cannot be done in a country like this, so rapidly increasing in population and wealth, at one meeting of the Legislature.  Another Legislature must soon convene, to complete the work of the last, and provide new laws to meet the exigencies of events.  Gentlemen say there will be great expense in meeting once a year.  What of that?  Our means will be proportionate to the expense.  We have great wealth here.  If it is necessary at all to have a Legislature, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said that the only objection he had to annual sessions of the Legislature was this: there are no lands owned and occupied as yet in California, except a few large tracts.  To place an ordinary tax on these lands would make it very oppressive.  A capitation tax to defray the expense of annual sessions would probably be equally objectionable.  It is revolting to man to be obliged to pay for his head.  For these reasons, he thought it would be better to meet biennially.  The system had been adopted in the new States, and it was found to work admirably.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS wished to know if the gentleman meant to say that his constituents would rather pay two dollars and a half, if it was called a tax upon the man, than two dollars for his head.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER merely referred to the general principle as objectionable.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE rose to pledge his constituents for their share of taxation.  He was sent here by them to assist in making such a Constitution as would protect them in all their rights and property.  Whatever tax was put upon them by their own act, they would never complain of.  It would be easy to make the sessions of the Legislature biennial, when the necessity of such a change was demanded by circumstances.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON would not say a word but for the allusion of the gentleman from Sonoma, (Mr. Semple,) to the people of that district.  His (Mr. Shannon's) constituents, the people of Sacramento, were as willing and as able as any in California to pay taxes.  They wanted a good government, no matter what the expense might be, and he believed they would require annual sessions of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SNYDER stated that he had before him a map of California, and that he understood an effort would be made in this House to establish, as the boundary line of the State, the entire territory known as California.  Now if the boundary line should take in the whole of California, there would be certain members from the Salt Lake region, who never would be able to get home if the Legislature met annually.  At the close of the session they might start homeward, but they would be compelled to turn back before thay got beyond the Sierra Nevada, in order to be at the seat of government in time for the next sessions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT said it seemed to him that this question of annual and biennial sessions was one that admitted of very little doubt in favor of annual sessions.  One of the essential reasons why this Convention was assembled here, was to provide the means of proper legislation.  His colleague from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) cited the examples of the new States in favor of biennial sessions.  From a speech made by that gentleman a day or two since, it would seem that these new States enjoyed from seven to thirty years experience under Territorial forms of government.  There was comparatively but little change to make in their laws.  That very fact would go to show the absolute necessity of annual Legislatures here.  It is notorious that the laws now in force, are repugnant to the feelings, education, and habits of the great majority of the people.  These laws cannot be discontinued, and such laws enacted in their place as the wants of the people may require, by biennial sessions of the Legislature.  It appeared to him that nothing but annual sessions would answer the demands of the community.  It might not be necessary to continue the annual meetings more than four or five years, but it should be left to the people to determine upon the expediency of a change, at the expiration of that time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MR. GWIN did not wish to trespass upon the patience of the House, but as he was contending for an important principle he desired to reply to some remarks which had been made during the debate.  When he spoke of hasty legislation he did not intend to be understood as stating that one Legislature would meet this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER desired to offer a resolution providing that the Legislature shall meet annually for the first three years, and after that biennially.  It seemed to him that would cover the objections of gentlemen who apprehended inconvenience from the want of laws at the present time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK suggested that the motion should be put on the longest time, which was the biennial sessions.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT objected to the proposition of the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. McCarver.)  He thought it would only increase the difficulty.  The facilities for getting to the seat of government after a few years would be much greater than they are at present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on filling the blank with the word "biennial," and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON's motion to insert "annual" was then adopted; and the question being on the second section, it was adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The sessions of the Legislature shall be annual, and shall commence on the first Monday in January next ensuing the election of its members, unless the Governor of the State shall in the interim convene the Legislature by proclamation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The third section was then read, as follows:--</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  The members of the Assembly shall be chosen by the qualified electors of their respective districts on the Tuesday next after the first Monday in November, whose term of office shall continue -- years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT moved to fill the first blank with the word "annually;" the second blank with the word "one," and to strike out the letter "s" in the word "years" at the close of the section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE desired to see as few elections in this country as possible.  He considered every two years often enough to elect members of the Legislature.  There is always excitement in elections.  When too frequent, they are prejudicial to the industrial habits of the community.  He moved that the blank be filled so as to provide that elections shall be held every two years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD said it occurred to him that the day fixed for the election of President of the United States was the Tuesday succeeding the first Monday in November.  All our elections should be held on that day.  He wished to be sure of this before the passage of the section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE informed the gentleman that it was on the Tuesday succeeding the first Monday in November.  He moved further to amend the section by adding after the word "November," "unless otherwise directed by the Legislature."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment was adopted, and the question then being on the adoption of the section as amended, it was adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  The members of the Assembly shall be chosen--annually by the qualified electors of their respective districts, on the Tuesday next after the first Monday in November, unless otherwise directed by the Legislature, whose term of office shall continue one year.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then coming up on the fourth section of the report, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  Senators and members of Assembly shall be citizens of the United States, and be duly qualified electors in the respective counties and districts which they represent.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS thought some provision was necessary to make this section perfect, inasmuch as there seemed to be a good deal of doubt whether a certain portion of the population here were entitled to the rights of citizenship without a special act of Congress.  He desired to see all participate in the first election.  This requires that, in addition to the qualification of elector, a man must be a citizen of the United States.  If, however, those who were most interested in the matter had no objection to the section, he would not press any amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN thought the difficulty could easily be remedied.  The qualification of an elector is that "every white male citizen of the United States," &amp;c.  It is an essential qualification.  It would be easy to strike out citizen of the United States, and say, Senators and members of the Assembly shall be qualified electors.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to strike out the words "citizens of the United States and be."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to amend by striking out the words "United States." and inserting "of the State of California," so as to read, "Senators and members of the Assembly shall be citizens of the State of California," &amp;c.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER did not see the necessity of inserting "California" here.  It seemed to him that they would be citizens of California as a matter of course.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE would modify his amendment so as to read: "Senators and members of the Assembly shall have been citizens of the State two years" in order to be qualified electors.  His object was to give electors a higher qualification than members of the Assembly.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Price's amendment, as modified, and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved "one year" a resident of the State.  Rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON could see no occasion for the introduction of any thing of this kind here.  There could be no substantial reason for striking out the words "citizen of the United States."  They were usual, he believed, in all the Constitutions of the States.  There could be no objection on the score that it would leave out any of the original inhabitants of California.  A previous article has fixed the qualifications of voters.  No person can be a citizen of California, without first being a citizen of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT supposed a person could.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON remarked that supposition would not answer.  Facts were necessary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT said that, according to the clause of the Constitution which was debated last night, he believed persons were sometimes entitled to the elective franchise in States, who could not be considered as citizens of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE was of a similar opinion, and referred to the case of Illinois, which, for many years, made citizens of the State who were not previously citizens of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON was not altogether convinced that this was the case.  It was certain, however, that a great majority of the Constitutions of the United States contained these words.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the motion to strike out the words "citizens of the United States and be," and decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the 4th section, as amended, it was adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  Senators and members of Assembly shall be duly qualified electors in the respective counties which they represent.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The fifth section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>5.  Senators shall be chosen for the term of four years, at the same time and place as members of Assembly.  No person shall be eligible to the office of member of Assembly except he shall have attained the age of twenty-one years, nor to that of Senator except he shall have attained the age of twenty-five years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to strike out the word "four," and insert the word two, which was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to strike out all after the word "Assembly."  His reason for this motion was, that in the previous section the qualifications of a representative were fixed, and therefore he considered the latter clause of the present section useless.  The age of a representative is fixed at twenty-one years, and that of a Senator at twenty-five.  He considered the people as the best judges of these matters, and preferred leaving the age of their representatives unrestricted.  It would be just as well to say Senators and Representatives shall not be over a certain age as to say they shall not be under a certain age.  In fact it would be much better sense, for a young man may correct his errors, but in the case of an old man, there is no remedy.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS not only seconded this motion, but would endeavor to support it.  There had been much discussion in the world as to what that period of life is at which a man arrives at the age of discretion.  The common law has fixed it at twenty-one years, and the civil at twenty-five.  It must be either one or the other.  In the case of the legislator, it seems that the more general rule of twenty-one years is to prevail.  Could any gentleman explain what there is in the Senate to make a member an immature man who was a mature man in the House below?  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER was not satisfied as to the propriety of striking out this clause, and allowing the people to elect persons to the Senate without reference to their age.  He was in favor of leaving everything to the people, as a general rule, but as Constitutions are restrictions imposed upon the people by their own consent, and as this seemed to be a reasonable and proper restriction, he preferred letting it remain in the Constitution.  He thought those gray hairs to which gentlemen so often alluded, were peculiarly appropriate in a body of so grave a character as the upper House of the State Legislature.  When the young and inexperienced members of the lower House passed laws, he desired that those laws should be reconsidered and amended by older and wiser heads.  It is but reasonable to suppose that maturity of judgement is acquired by the experience that age affords, and for this reason, as well as because it was a principle well tested, he would vote against the motion before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON did not know what right this Convention had to put restrictions on the people.  It was a body elected by their votes to carry into effect their wishes, not to prevent them from exercising their rights as freemen.  He was decidedly in favor of the amendment.  He wished the question of age left to the free judgment of the people.  Let them send whom they please, either to the House or the Senate.  They are best qualified to judge as to the capability of members.  He had the pleasure, shortly before he left the United States, of listening to a debate in the Convention of New York on this subject.  The result of it was, that in the new Constitution of that State, all restrictions of this kind were left out.  He trusted the same republican policy would be adopted here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Price's motion to strike out all after the word Assembly, and decided in the affirmative, 15 to 10.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to amend by inserting in place of the words stricken out, the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>And no person shall be a member of the Senate or Assembly who has not been a citizen and inhabitant of the State one year, and of the county for which he shall be chosen six months next before his election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT rose to a question of order.  A proposition had already been voted upon which covered the same ground.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS thought nothing would facilitate the business of the Convention more than a strict observance of the rules.  He would therefore suggest to the Chair that any amendment substantially the same as one already voted upon, was excluded under the rules.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR was of opinion that this became an original proposition when offered as an amendment to a distinct and separate section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the amendment was adopted--15 to 11.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved that the Committee rise and report progress.  His object was to move a call of the House, in order to have a full vote and reconsider the motion last adopted.  It was absurd to attempt to do business where so few members were present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee then rose, reported progress, and asked leave to sit again.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved a call of the House, which was ordered, and twenty-six members answered to their names.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Sergeant-at-Arms was directed to proceed, and require the attendance of the absent members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee took a recess till half-past 2 P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 2 1/2 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, a call of the House was ordered, and twenty-two members answered to their names.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the Sergeant-at-Arms was directed by the President to require the attendance of the absentees.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Gilbert moved an adjournment until 8 P.M., but the motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE submitted the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>THE CHAIR decided that the resolution was not in order, and that the gentleman could accomplish his object without the action of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House resolved itself into Committee of the Whole (Mr. Botts in the Chair) on the 3d Article of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved further to amend Section 5th of Article III, on the "Distribution of Powers," by striking out the entire section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A question of order here arose as to whether the substance of this section as it stood, was embodied in the previous section; when, after some discussion, Mr. Gwin withdrew his amendment, and the section as amended by Mr. Price, was adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>5.  Senators shall be chosen for the term of two years, at the same time and place as members of the Assembly.  And no person shall be a member of the Senate or Assembly who has not been a citizen and inhabitant of the State one year, and of the county for which he shall be chosen six months next before his election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the committee then rose, reported progress, and obtained leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then adjourned to 8 P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 8 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House resolved itself into Committee of the Whole on the report of the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The sixth and seventh Sections of Article III, on the Distribution of Powers, were taken up, and adopted without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>6.  The number of Senators shall not be less than one-third nor more than one half the members of the Assembly, and at the first session of the Legislature after this Constitution takes effect, the Senators shall be divided by lot, as equally as may be, into two classes.  The seats of the Senators of the first class shall be vacated at the expiration of the first year, so that one-half shall be chosen annually.</P>
196.sgm:<P>7.   When the number of Senators is increased, they shall be annexed to one of the two classes, so as to keep them as nearly equal as practicable.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The eighth Section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>8.  Each House shall choose its own officers, and judge of the qualifications, elections, and returns of its own members.  A contested election shall be determined in such manner as shall be directed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE said there seemed to be some clashing in this section between the first and last clause.  Each House shall be the judge of the qualifications and returns of its own members, as provided for in the first part.  The second part gives no force or effect to the section.  He therefore moved to strike out all after the word "members."</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said that, although the necessity of this clause might not have occurred to the gentleman, (Mr. Price,) it had occurred to the framers of nearly all the Constitutions throughout the States of the Union.  Each House should, of course, be the judge of its own members, qualifications, and officers; but the manner of determining a contested election should be fixed by law.  The Legislature, by this clause, determines the manner by law.  It is perfectly consistent with the preceding clause, and simply directs the Legislature to provide the manner in which contested elections shall be decided.  It is not only proper but absolutely necessary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr.PRICE would like the gentleman to give him a better reason for retaining this clause, than the fact that is to be found in the various Constitutions.  He (Mr. Price,) professed to understand the English language, and he really could not see that there was any necessity for words which added nothing to the section in substance.  It amounts to very much the same thing as giving power to the Legislature to form a law by which contested elections shall be decided, after you have already provided that the Legislature shall decide the elections and qualifications of its own members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  This clause does not only provide for contested elections of the members of the Legislature; there may be contested elections in regard to the Governor, or Sheriff, or different county officers.  It provides that the Legislature shall determine by law the manner in which these contested elections shall be decided.  It is necessary to have some system of action laid down for the Legislature, so that proper notice may be given to the person holding the seat or office, and the person claiming it, and the manner in which the witnesses shall be summoned and examined, may be determined.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY remarked that if this last clause was adopted, the Legislature might pass laws that could settle the election of members for succeeding Legislatures.  If its adoption therefore, was insisted upon, he would suggest the propriety of amending it so that all contested elections, except for members of the Legislature, shall be settled by laws passed by the Legislature, and that contested elections of members shall be decided by no law except the decision of the body in which those persons claim seats.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE said that if a contested election in relation to Governor should come up, this clause has no bearing upon it.  It simply provides that the laws shall direct and determine the manner in which a contested election (having reference to elections to the Legislature) shall be decided.  He had no objection, if it was thought necessary, to make a separate section containing a general provision for all elections, except of members of the Legislature; but he did not think it should be included in this section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the 8th section, as reported by the Committee, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The following sections were then taken up in order, read, and adopted without debate:</P>
196.sgm:<P>9.  A majority of each House shall constitute a quorum to transact business, but a smaller number may adjourn from day to day, and may compel the attendance of absent members in such manner and under such penalties as each House may provide.</P>
196.sgm:<P>10.  Each House shall determine the rules of its proceedings, and may, with the concurrence of two thirds of all the members elected, expel a member.</P>
196.sgm:<P>11.  Each House shall keep a journal of its own proceedings and publish the same; and the yeas and nays of the members of either House, shall, at the desire of any three members present, be entered upon the journal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>12.  Members of the Legislature shall, in all cases except treason, felony, and breach of the peace, be privileged from arrest; nor shall they be subject to any civil process during the session of the Legislature, nor for fifteen days next before the commencement and after the termination of each session.</P>
196.sgm:<P>13.  When vacancies occur in either House, the Governor, or the person exercising the functions of Governor, shall issue writs of election to fill such vacancies.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>14.  The doors of each House shall be open, except on such occasions as, in the opinion of the House, may require secrecy.</P>
196.sgm:<P>15.  Neither House shall, without the consent of the other, adjourn for more than three days, nor to any other place than in which they may be sitting.</P>
196.sgm:<P>16.  Any bill may originate in either House of the Legislature; and all bills passed by one House may be amended by the other.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 17th Section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>17.  Every bill which may have passed the Legislature shall, before it becomes a law, be presented to the Governor.  If he approve it, he shall sign it; but if not, he shall return it with his objections to the House in which it originated, which shall enter the same upon the journal, and proceed to reconsider it.  If, after such reconsideration, it again pass both Houses, by yeas and nays, by a majority of two-thirds of the members of each House present, it shall become a law notwithstanding the Governor's objections.  If any bill shall not be returned within ten days after it shall have been presented to him (Sunday excepted) the same shall become a law in like manner as if he had signed it, unless the Legislature, by adjournment, prevent such return.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to amend the section by inserting the word "three," instead of "ten."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON thought it was usual to give the Governor ten days to prepare his veto.  It would be almost impossible to write it out in three days.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES said that many of the States allow five days.  In the Constitution of Iowa the limit is three days.  It is well known that most of the important bills are passed within the last ten days of session.  If the Governor has a right to pass a pocket veto on bills, he has within himself an absolute and uncontrollable veto power.  The Governor is always found where the Legislature sits.  He knows all the reasons for the passage of the law; and is advised of all the initiatory steps which have been taken.  Why then should he not be able within three days to form an opinion upon almost any measure which might be passed through the Legislature?  It is the case in Congress that the most important bills are passed at the close of the session, and would be much more likely to be the case in a State Legislature, where the bills are local and much less important.  He (Mr. Jones) was democratically opposed to giving the Governor any power to pass a pocket veto upon the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said the gentleman's arguments would be very good if he did not base it altogether upon the assumption that the Governor would be a corrupt man.  No Governor would dare to veto a bill in this manner.  If a bill passed during the last few days of the session of the Legislature was radically wrong, the Governor would, in virtue of his power, veto it' but no Governor would assume the responsibility to veto a bill in this manner.  If it is to be assumed that the Governor will violate his oath of office, then he should be deprived of the veto power altogether.  He should either have no such power at all, or sufficient time to present his views, in the exercise of that power</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON suggested five days instead of three.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES accepted the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on striking out the word "ten" and substituting "five," and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 17th Section, as reported by the Committee, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT offered the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No bill shall become a law unless it receive the sanction of a majority of all the members of both Houses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>There might be a quorum which would consist of little more than a quarter of all the members.  He thought no bill should become a law unless it received the sanction of a majority all the members of both Houses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said this might be a very good regulation, but it was utterly impracticable under existing circumstances.  It would be impossible to tell when a majority was voting.  Hence the provision would be a dead letter in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES remarked that, if he remembered rightly, the Constitution of New Jersey said "persons present."  He did not see how it was practicable at all times <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE had the Constitution of Illinois before him, which provides that all bills before they become laws shall be passed on the yeas and nays, and that the yeas and nays shall show a majority vote of all the members elected to both Houses.  It seemed to him that the propriety of such a rule was evident.  In the brief experience of this Convention, important measures had been carried when there was a bare quorum present.  Although this might be admissable in Committee of the Whole, it was objectionable when measures of importance came up for final action.  Very important bills might be passed in the Legislature by some understanding among the members, which would be directly contrary to the wishes of the people.  He had seen it done.  He had seen members invited out on some pretence, for the purpose of getting bills passed.  It seemed to him the best course that could be adopted to avoid what gentlemen were so apprehensive of--too much legislation.  Where the propriety of a measure is at all doubtful, it is better that this restriction should prevail.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said that, from the peculiar character of our population in California, it would be very difficult for the first two or three Legislatures to get together more than a majority of the members elected.  If we require the vote of a majority of those elected on every bill before it becomes a law, it may readily be anticipated that the Legislature will be obliged to home, or sit and talk to the walls.  He thought it would be very impolitic, for this reason, to introduce the proposed section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Dent's proposition, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the adoption of the 18th Section, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>18.  The Assembly shall have the sole power of impeachment; and all impeachments shall be tried by the Senate.  When sitting for that purpose, the Senators shall be upon oath or affirmation; and no person shall be convicted without the concurrence of two-thirds of the members present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to amend by inserting, in place of "Assembly," the words "House of Representatives."  It was the ordinary phraseology, and he thought it would be better.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON stated that the word Assembly was used in the proceding sections, and could not be altered here without changing the whole so as to correspond.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES therefore withdrew his amendment, and the section, as reported by the Select Committee, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 19th Section was then read, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>19.  The Governor,--shall be liable to impeachment for any misdemeanor in office; but judgment, in such cases, shall extend only to removal from office and disqualification to hold any office of trust or profit under the State; but the party convicted or acquitted shall, nevertheless, be liable to indictment, trial, and punishment according to law.  All other civil officers shall be tried for misdemeanors in office in such manner as the Legislature shall provide.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK proposed that the blank should be passed over for the present, as it would be necessary, before filling it, to determine what officers should be created.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER saw no impropriety in creating those officers now, and filling the blank.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said the blank could not filled until the Constitution was formed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK moved to insert the word "honor" before trust or profit; which was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The filling of the blank was then postponed, and the question recurring on the section as amended, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 20th and 21st Sections were adopted without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>20.  So Senator of member of Assembly shall, during the time he shall have been elected, be appointed to any civil office of profit under this State, which shall have been created, or the emoluments of which shall have been increased during such term, except such offices as may be filled by elections by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>21.  No person holding any lucrative office under the United States or this State, or any other Power, shall be eligible to the Legislature.  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
196.sgm:, that officers in the militia, to which there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The 22d Section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>22.  No person who may hereafter be a collector or holder of public moneys, shall have a seat in either House of the Legislature, or be eligible to any office of trust or profit under this State, until he shall have accounted for and paid into the treasury all sums for which he may be liable.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved that the section be stricken out.  He could see no good that could arise from it, and it might be the means of depriving an honest and worthy man of a seat in the Legislature.  Many an honest man may be owing the State.  It may be from no dishonesty on his part, but from various calamities beyond his control.  He (Mr. Price) did not see that this section afforded any protection to the Government--that there was any principle or restriction in it worthy of a place in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON thought it a matter of very serious importance that persons holding office should be made accountable for the money placed in their hands.  It is no small matter that the Government should be protected against dishonest men.  Many public officers hold large amounts of money.  The people should know where that money goes.  If it has been fraudulently disposed of, the officer who commits the fraud should be ineligible to office.  The gentleman says that a person holding public funds may be unfortunate in business, and unable to settle his accounts at the proper time.  If so, he has no business in the Legislature.  He should stay at home, and endeavor, by strict attention to business, to meet his liabilites.  He has no business engaging in political contests.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT wished to know what object a defaulting officer would have in running for the Legislature, unless to propose and probably carry such measures as would free him from his indebtedness.  He considered it a very important provision; that the door should be closed against persons of this character.  Every member had seen the effects of the immense defalcations in the States, and should profit by past experience.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE did not wish to be misunderstood in his remarks on this question.  There was no member who would go further than he would in relation to accountability; but he saw nothing in this section to afford protection to the people of California.  If any man is a defaulter in this country, the people know it.  He is a marked man.  If he has their money in his pocket, they know it, and they can act accordingly.  He never can be supported by the people for any public office.  But he (Mr. Price) contended that a man, by a series of calamities, may be indebted to the State, and at the same time bear as good a character, and be as well entitled to the respect and confidence of his fellow-citizens, as any person in the State.  Yet, by this provision, a man who has not lost the respect and confidence of his fellow-citizens, is to be deprived of a seat in the Legislature, and rendered ineligible to any office of trust or profit.  The people are competent to judge who shall represent them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER was decidely in favor of the section.  It is impossible for the people always to know whether public officers have settled their accounts.  It should be made a constitutional requirement, so that they may be well advised of it at the time of election.  No man should be allowed to be returned as an officer of the Government, if he be a defaulter.  He (Mr. McCarver) was satisfied the community would be in favor of this measure.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the 22d Section as reported, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL thought there was some misunderstanding about this vote.  The motion was to strike out the section, and the question was taken on its adoption.  If the Chair decided that the section was adopted, he appealed from the decision.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON asked whether it was the decision of the Chair that, when a motion to strike out a section is made, that motion cannot be received, but that, in its place, the original question on the passage of the section must be put.  If so, it would give rise to a great deal of misunderstanding.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>THE CHAIR stated that the first question after the reading of the section, was, "Shall this section pass?"  The motion to strike out was unnecessary, because if the House refused to adopt the section, it would of course be rejected or stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL appealed from this decision.  Whereupon, the question on the appeal was put, and the decision of the Chair sustained.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved a reconsideration of the vote on the passage of the section, in order to allow the gentleman rrom Sacramento (Mr. Shannon,) an opportunity of submitting an amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was taken, and the House refused to reconsider the vote on the adoption of the section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 23d Section was the read, and adopted without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>23.  No money shall be drawn from the treasury, but in consequence of appropriations made by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 24th Section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>24.  The members of the Legislature shall receive for their services a compensation to be ascertained by law, and paid out of the public treasury; but no increase of the compensation shall take effect during the term for which the members of either House shall have been elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE had always held the opinion that where time is concerned, it should not reach back beyond the adoption of the Constitution; but in this instance there is an obvious necessity for adding a proviso.  The section itself is very good and should be adopted; but by amending it a little, it would obviate a difficulty upon his mind, and he had no doubt, upon the minds of other members.  He referred to the necessity of this Convention making provision for the compensation of the first Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT suggested the propriety of saying "fixed," instead of "ascertained" by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY enquired of the gentleman (Mr. Wozencraft,) whether the compensation of the next Legislature was to be fixed in the schedule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT said it was.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT supposed it would be much to the interest of the first Legislature that this matter should be settled by this Convention.  He wished to know if the schedule was to be a portion of the Constitution, and whether it was to have the force of law.  If the schedule had not that force, the compensation of members of the first Legislature would not be provided for.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN read the 18th Section of the Constitution of Michigan, from which this section was copied, as follows, omitting the last clause:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The members of the Legislature shall receive for their services a compensation to be ascertained by law, and paid out of the public treasury; but no increase of the compensation shall take effect during the term for which the members of either House shall have been elected; and such compensation shall not exeeed--dollars a day.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the amendment of Mr. Wozencraft to insert "fixed" instead of "ascertained," it was carried, and the section as amended was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 25th and 26th Sections were then adopted without debate viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>25.  Every law enacted by the Legislature, shall embrace but one object, and that shall be expressed in the title; and no law shall be revised or amended by reference to its title, but in such case the act revised, or section amended, shall be re-enacted and published at length.</P>
196.sgm:<P>26.  No divorce shall be granted by the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 27th Section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>27.  No lottery shall be authorised by this State, nor shall the sale of lottery tickets be allowed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to strike out this section.  He believed it to be exceedingly impolitic to prohibit the drawing of lotteries in this country.  It might be made a source of great revenue to this State, and however objectionable the principle was, yet he believed it was better in some cases to legalize immoral acts than to have them done in secret.  He was opposed to restricting future Legislatures in relation to this matter.  He thought it should be left to the people to prohibit lotteries <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER thought it very strange if the people of this golden region could not defray the expenses of a State government without entering into a legalized system of gambling.  If the government that authorizes the sale of lottery tickets, and the purchasers of those tickets were not direct gamblers, they certainly were on the road to professional gambling.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE looked upon this as a very important question.  He admitted the fact stated by his friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Price,) that the State of California would probably receive from the privilege of lottery-drawing, three hundred thousand dollars annually; and he admitted that it was a very desirable acquisition of revenue.  But there is another question involved in the adoption of this section--a question of far greater importance than money.  It concerns the well-being of society, and the permanent industrial interests of the State.  The system is not only objectionable in itself, but it is peculiarly objectionable in this country, where the temptation to gamble is so great.  The effects are most deeply felt by those who are least able to sustain them.  It penetrates to the domestic circle; it destroys the happiness of families, and falls with a peculiar weight upon the widow and the orphan.  He appealed to this House not to sanction a principle so fatal to the best interests of society, by striking out the section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON said he would sustain the motion of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Price,) in accordance with the principle which he had advocated when the subject of lotteries was brought up in the bill of rights.  He thought it should be left to the Legislature.  He did not conceive that there was a greater amount of wisdom, including the gray hairs, in this Convention, than there would be in the future Legislatures of the State; nor was it proper to prevent those bodies from adopting such measures of general policy as they might deem expedient.  He desired to leave the Legislature untrammelled.  It was sufficient to lay down the broad fundamental principles of a republican form of Government, without assuming to deprive the people of the right to pass such laws, not inconsistent with those principles, as they thought proper.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT was opposed to the amendment.  He believed the State should be prohibited from indulging in a practice which was condemned in individuals.  The State should not be permitted to derive its nourishment from the destruction of its members.  If the practice is objectionable in individuals, it is still more so in a Government, which professes to be the guardian of individuals, and the protector of their interests.  He thought other means of obtaining revenue for the support of the Government could be resorted to, more honorable than a legalized system of gambling.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE admitted that he was entirely floored by the remarks of his friend from San Jose, (Mr. Hoppe,) who had posted him up on morals.  He (Mr. Price) contended that the people of California are essentially a gambling people at this period, and it was no use to back out of that position.  Every public house in California has its monte and faro tables, licensed by law, wherever there is law.  Hundreds are to be seen at these houses casting their money on the chance of the game.  He wished to know if lotteries were more immoral than establishments of this kind.  Had the gentleman (Mr. Hoppe) denounced these gambling houses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK agreed with the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Price,) as to the propriety of permitting the people to legislate for themselves; but at the same time the object of this Convention is to limit the powers of the Legislature; and it appeared to him that this very clause fixes a very important limit upon those powers.  We may be a gambling community, but let us not in this Constitution create a gambling State.  If money is necessary for the support of the State government, let us not raise it by means which even the gentleman himself, (Mr. Price) admits to be immoral.  In nearly all the new Constitutions you will find this clause.  It was not contained in the old Constitutions, but in most cases where they have been amended it has been introduced.  In the old Constitution of New York, to which reference has been made in the course of debate, no prohibition was inserted.  Many gentlemen present would remember the famous case of Yates and McIntyre, which involved not only individuals of the State in ruin, but was the occasion of serious embarrassment to the State government itself.  The result so clearly established the evils of the lottery system, that the Convention of New York, in 1846, inserted a clause in the very first article of the new Constitution, (see Sec. 10.) prohibiting lotteries and the sale of lottery tickets.  It appeared to him (Mr. Halleck) that this prohibition was one of the best that could be inserted in the article limiting the powers of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE said he had received no instructions from his constituents directing him to prescribe the particular amusements at which they should pass their time; when they should go to bed, or when they should get up.  He came here to lay down the broad and general principles of religious freedom.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK agreed with the gentleman, (Mr. Moore,) that this Convention met here for the purpose of making a Constitution on the broad principles of religious freedom, but he had yet to learn that the exclusion of a clause which prohibits gambling is religious freedom.  It might be contended that gambling is religious freedom, inasmuch as it takes the largest possible liberties known in any community where religion exists; but it would require a very free interpretation of the gentleman's remarks to bring the practice of gambling within the ordinary bounds of religion.  He trusted it would be a long time before he became a moral man, entitled to membership in any church, by reason of his proficiency in the art of gambling.  It was a new theory of morals, which he thought should be omitted in this Constitution.  The gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Price,) proclaimed this a gambling community.  He (Mr. Dimmick) was not ready to accept the remark as applicable to his constituents.  He trusted such a thing could not be said of all the districts of California, though it might be appropriate as applied to the district which the gentleman represented, and perhaps some other districts.  It might possibly be expedient to license gambling in certain parts of the country but not lotteries.  Other modes, such as have always been customary in the country, might be sanctioned.  But, for his own part, he preferred that gambling of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the 27th Section as reported by the Committee, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 28th and 29th Sections were then passed without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>28.  The enumeration of the inhabitants of this State shall be taken under the direction of the Legislature in the years one thousand eight hundred and fifty two, and one thousand eight hundred and fifty five, and at the end of every ten years thereafter; and these enumerations, together with the census that may be taken under the direction of the Congress of the United States in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty, and every subsequent ten years, shall serve as the basis of representation in both Houses of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>29.  The number of Senators and members of Assembly at the first session holden after the enumerations herein provided are made, be fixed by the Legislature, and apportioned among the several counties and districts to be established by law, according to the number of white inhabitants.  The number of members of Assembly shall not be less than twenty-four nor more than thirty-six, until the number of inhabitants in this State shall amount to one hundred thousand; and after that period at such ratio that the whole number of members of Assembly shall never be less than thirty nor more than eighty.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 30th Section reported, being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>30.  When a Congressional, Senatorial, or Assembly district shall be composed of two or more counties, it shall not be separated by any county belonging to another district; and no county shall be divided in forming a Congressional, Senatorial, or Assembly district.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE inquired of the Chairman of the Committee, (Mr. Norton) where this section came from.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said it came from the Select Committee on the Constitution.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE inquired if the Chairman of the Committee assumed to himself, as Chairman, the authorship?  He would like to know whether the section could be found in any of the Constitutions, and if so, in what Constitution?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK stated that it was from the Constitution of Iowa.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE could not see the use of encumbering the Constitution of California with sections of this kind.  If there was no Legislature ever going to be formed, it might be very well to provide for the districting of the counties; but what this House had to do with it, he could not perceive.  He moved, therefore, to strike the section out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE called the gentleman's attention to a system known as <HI REND="italics">gerrymandering</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the section was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee rose, reported progress, and obtained leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House adjourned to 10 o'clock, A.M., to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 14, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Prayer by Rev. Senor Antonio Ramirez.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Journal of yesterday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS, from the Select Committee to whom was submitted the subject of the proper mode of paying the expenses of the Convention, and the proper <HI REND="italics">per diem</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD moved that forty-three copies of the report, not including the correspondence, be prepared for the use of the Convention.  The motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, it was ordered that twenty copies of the report, without the correspondence, be prepared for the use of the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A motion to prepare copies of the correspondence for the use of the Convention was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to reconsider the vote by which twenty copies of the report, without the correspondence, had been ordered to be furnished.  The motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention adjourned to 3 o'clock, P.M. to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The journal of yesterday was read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to take up the report of the Committee of the Whole on the bill of rights, with a view to action on the amendments.</P>
196.sgm:<P>At the suggestion of Mr. SHANNON, Mr. GWIN withdrew his motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARILLO rose to address the Convention, and the Interpreter and Interpreter's Clerk being absent, Mr. Foster, a member from Los Angelos, was requested to interpret the remarks of Mr. C.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARILLO complained of incompetency and disrespectful language on the part of the Interpreter's Clerk--whereupon</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The resolution was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. HOPPE, Judge White was requested to act, temporarily, as Assistant Interpreter to the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHANNON, the report of the Finance Committee was taken up, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Report of the minority of the Committee of five on the payment of the expenses of the Convention, and the per diem or other allowance of its officers:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee, to whom was referred the subject of the proper mode to be adopted to pay the expenses of the Convention, and who were directed to report the proper per diem or other allowance of its officers, have had the same under consideration and beg leave to report:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That the officers of this Convention are entitled to a per diem allowance, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Secretary, $28 00; Assistant Secretary, $23 00; Sergeant-at Arms, $22 00; Copying Clerks, $18 00; Doorkeeper, $12 00; Page, $4 00; Reporter, $50 00; Chaplain, $16 00; Interpreter, $24 00; Interpreter's Clerk, $21 00.</P>
196.sgm:<P>And the Committee further report that, in the opinion of your Committee, the most feasible and proper mode of paying the expenses of the Convention is in the schedule to provide that the first Legislature that meets under this Constitution shall make early provision for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved that the report be recommitted, with instructions to report the daily pay of the Secretary and Translator at $16, and of the other officers of the Convention in proportion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES could not see what vast difference the lower estimate of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck) would make.  It would not amount to more than a hundred dollars a day at the most.  Moreover, he thought this body should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SNYDER addressed the Committee as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>There are many matters touched upon in that and the accompanying correspondence, which deeply interest us; and particularly that portion which relates to the collection of customs in this country, and the manner in which the money so collected has been appropriated.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I ask the indulgence of this Convention to make a few remarks, which, I think, will not be inappropriate at this time, relative to the financial affairs of this country, and the treatment received from the Government of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question of the expenses of this Convention, referred to in the report of the Committee, very naturally suggests that it is high time the Government of the United States should awaken to a sense of its duty towards the distant Territory of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>There was a time, Mr. President, when emigration to this country was encouraged by a <HI REND="italics">certain power</HI>
196.sgm:<P>I speak, sir, from personal knowledge in regard to this matter, for I was influenced by a gentleman in this country to come to California.  Aye, sir, he is now in this very house.  You well know, sir, we were here but little over one short year before it was understood that despatches had arrived for Capt. Fremont, then on his way to Oregon.  Be that as it may, he returned after accomplishing half his journey, and in a very short time the American flag was seen floating within the walls of this town.  I will not say, Mr. President, nor need I dwell upon the fact how the Government of the United States rewarded that young man--how he was placed between the jealous fire of older and more subtle officers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I will only here assert that the action of the Home Government was, in his case, and in that of the country which he aided to annex to our confederation, in every respect consistent.  They condemned the devoted soldier, and they no less showed their disregard of the rights of Americans, by a total refusal to provide means to pay the expenses incurred in bringing this territory into the line of our government limits.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, California has been abused by the General Government.  The citizens who cast themselves on the hostile shores of the Pacific, have been abused; and chief among them is that young man, who, perilling all for his country, stood shoulder to shoulder with the daring few who crossed the rocky ridges between this and the old States, to add another bright star to our already glorious Confederation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>How appropriate are the words of Byron to this case!  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"He who ascends the mountain tops shall find<LB>The loftiest peaks most wrapt in clouds and snow;<LB>He who surpasses or subdues mankind,<LB>Must look down upon the hate of those below;<LB>Though high above the sun of glory glow,<LB>And far beneath the earth and ocean spread,<LB>Round him are icy rocks, and loudly blow,<LB>Contending tempests on his naked head,<LB>And thus reward the toils which to these summits led."</HI>
196.sgm:<P>It is true, sir, that the great Government of the United States, of which we claim to be a part, should be rebuked by California!  Not only the emigrants to their country, but the foreign residents and native Californians, have suffered from the negligence of the home Government.  I do not make these remarks because I now love my country and her institutions less, but because I love that freedom of speech guarantied by our forefathers more.  And I glory in the privilege which allows the poorest man in our Republic to condemn his rulers when they act unjustly, as they have done toward California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Judging from its acts, it would indeed seem, sir, that Congress believed the assertion of the representative from the little State of Delaware, that there "were not five men in this territory capable of forming a Government for it," and, of course, that there was, in his opinion, as few capable of judging how far their rights were outraged by neglect.  This, sir, is the voice from little Delaware, uttered in that august assembly to which we, the forty members of this Convention, are about to submit a petition for admittance into the Union.  We hope that the distinguished mouth-piece of little Delaware did not entirely exhaust the wisdom of his State or its representative, by this sage remark.  However insulting it may be to this great territory and its inhabitants, we can have no quarrel with the little State of Delaware, for we have here a country which could put both the little State and its wisdom in its pocket, and forget in its vastness that such small things were there.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now then, Mr. President, I will come to the matter which is more immediately connected with what I most wish to say.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>We have had the report of the Committee on Finance, and the letter of Gov. Riley relative to the means of paying the expenses of this Convention, and he feels a delicacy in giving a decisive answer to the inquiries of the Committee.  This does not at all astonish me.  I am too well acquainted with the liberal policy and generosity of Gov. Riley, to suppose for one moment that he would hesitate to pay the expenses of this Convention, were his instructions sufficiently full from his Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>No sir!  The niggardly policy adopted by the Government of the United States towards California, puts it out of her power to keep up such a civil government as this country should have, to say nothing about supporting the citizens of California in establishing a State Government after using the thousands they have collected from customs in California.  I would ask, what has become of the revenue collected in California? although, sir, as we have not laws like our Territories at home, you may ask what right we have to make inquiries.  It is an old saying, sir, "that he that dances must pay the fidler;" and "it is a poor rule that will not work both ways."  Have we not a right to make the fidler play that tune we like best?  Has that revenue been appropriated in accordance with certain stipulations in the Constitution of the United States?  Certainly, if they tax us, they should give us something in return.  Sir, at this very time, there is an officer of the United States Navy surveying and bouying out the channels of San Pablo and Suisun Bays, and who pays for it?  Sir, the people, by <HI REND="italics">subscription</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Still, sir, we must go on as we have done, paying the expenses of the Government ourselves, fighting on our own hook, for the honor of it!  I beg pardon--for the honor of the Government of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, in the Report of the Committee on Finance, in regard to the payment of the expenses of this Convention, the Governor refers to the very delicate situation in which he is placed.  There is no person who sympathi-es with him more deeply than I do; and little do I care whether I receive one cent or not to defray my expenses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, there are now gentlemen in this Convention who have travelled many miles to get here; and many of these gentlemen, who are now serving their country gratuitously, (as they have done before,) have accounts against the Government for supplies furnished during the war, to troops of the United States Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I can point to a gentleman now present, who holds claims against the Government of the United States to the amount of from twelve to fifteen thousand dollars; and there are many more of a similar character.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In this very town, sir, there is, to my certain knowledge, a large bundle of musty papers, claims against the Government of the United States to the amount of $100,000, which, in a few more years, will no doubt be interesting objects for antiquarian research.</P>
196.sgm:<P>All nations are reaping the benefits of the discovery of the gold; and first on the list stands out, in bold relief, the United States.  To whom are they indebted for the discovery?  To the pioneer veteran, Capt. J. A. Sutter, through whose generosity and benevolence, protection and assistance have been afforded to the travel worn emigrants who had toiled through many a weary day, and had passed many an anxious night upon the barren waste of a desolate country.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I need not say how they have been recompenseed for the toils and dangers they encountered in opening the road to the stores of wealth that are now drawn from the inexhaustible placers of California.  Neglect, gross neglect, has been their reward.</P>
196.sgm:<P>What has been the sacrifice?  Look upon the bleached bones of the starved emigrants which now lie scattered in the valley of the Sierra Nevada, where, hemmed in by mountains of impassable snow, they wasted from day to day, struggling with feeble hope against dark despair, until one by one, they drooped and died, leaving but few to tell the sad tale of their suffering.</P>
196.sgm:<P>O! let us draw a veil over the mournful picture, and hope, if nothing else, that a little sympathy may be created for the poor emigrant.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, I hope the time is not far distant when the Government of the United States will cease to neglect a country from which her people, and all other nations, are draining such an immense amount of wealth.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr HALLECK said, as he offered the resolution, he supposed he was bound to defend it.  The object of the resolution was to avoid the difficulties which gentlemen apprehended.  If the expenses of this Convention were limited to a small amount, he had no doubt they would be paid; but it was necessary that the rate of salaries should be economical.  If the expenses exceeded the proper bounds, he was certain they would not be paid, and the result would be, that it would have to be left to the next Legislature to provide for them.  There would be great difficulty in obtaining the adjustment of back claims in this way.  If the salaries of officers were to be fixed at twenty-two to twenty-eight dollars a day, what was the salary of the members to be fixed at?  He had heard thirty dollars a day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES remarked that such was the discursive character of this debate, that he apprehended the original resolution had been forgotten.  There was one great objection he had to the course of the majority of this Committee in getting the money from the hands of the civil government here.  He thought it a greater objection than that argued by his friend from Monterey, (Mr. Botts.)  The objection was this: that it does not appear to be known whether there is any money there or not.  We are told that if you give the officers of this Convention about what they could dig with their picks at the mines, they may in all probability be paid.  He (Mr. Jones) did not suppose that an officer representing the Government of the United States here--an officer high in command--and whose reputation was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said he intended no reflection upon the officer high in command.  He had simply opposed the principle giving the right to any officer, or any power in existence, to dictate to this Convention what should be its necessary expenses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS asked the gentleman to distinguish between the Government and the President.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES resumed.  The only right we can have is the incidental right of the treaty-making power.  We are the conquering power, and make the treaty.  If we acquire territory by cession, we do it under the treaty-making power, and not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS asked if the gentleman meant to say that a clear and plain clause of the Constitution could be violated by the Executive, or by any other branch of the General Government.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK observed, in relation to the instructions as to the use of the civil fund here for the payment of officers of the civil Government, that they were instructions from the former, not the present administration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN asked if they did not apply distinctly to the country when it was in a state of war.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK was understood to say that their application was not limited to any particular period.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER thought gentlemen were taking grounds that should not be taken by this Convention in relation to obtainig the means of defraying its expenses.  He could not see in what way it devoled upon this body to inquire how General Riley came by the funds which he has in his possession, or to ascertain by what authority he proposes defraying the expenses of the Convention.  The citizens of California sent delegates here for a special object--to form a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT said that this report was laid on the table yesterday, with the understanding that that portion should be taken up which relates to the per diem allowance of the officers.  If he had supposed that the minority report, or that part relating to the manner of providing for the payment of the expenses of the Convention, would have come up, he would have moved for its indefinite postponement.  We have no business to take into consideration here, whether the existing civil officer of this Territory has or has not the power to pay these expenses.  This question is foreign to the legitimate object of the Convention, and leads to endless debate.  He now moved to divide the question as to the rate of salaries and the subject of the civil fund, and indefinitely postpone the latter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I desire to make a few remarks on this subject, although the question has been very fully discussed.  There seem to be two reports from this Committee--the majority and minority report; one assuming the ground, founded upon a correspondence with Governor Riley, that we can obtain the means of paying the expenses of the Convention, mostly, if not entirely, out of the funds now in possession of the civil Government of California.  The minority report, on the contrary, assumes the ground that we should not ask Governor Riley for these funds, but leave the payment of the expenses entirely to a future Legislature.  Almost necessarily, this minority report opens the question as to the power of Governor Riley to pay out any portion of the money in his possession.  For myself, I do not think this question should have been brought up here.  There should have been no discussion as to his power in this Convention; and although the minority of the Committee have seen fit to make a report founded upon this correspondence, I entirely disagree with that report in regard to the question of power; at the same time I do not think it should have been brought before the House.  In the first place, we are the representatives of the people, assembled under a call from the Civil Governor of the Territory.  We came here for a specific object--to form a Constitution; and without knowing whether this Constitution will be adopted by the people or not, we cast about us to ascertain how we can pay the ordinary expenses of the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>We have certain officers for whom, if no provision be made now, and the Constitution be rejected by the people, no compensation will be received by them, unless it be defrayed personally by us.  The people of California, if they reject our labors here, are not bound by any law to meet the expenses of the Convention.  They could make a subcription and pay the necessary sum in that way; but the question now is, as to the payment of our officers at this time, for I apprehend they would scarcely be willing to look to a future Legislature for their compensation.  We have, through our Committee, applied to the Governor.  That officer states that he has a civil fund under his control; and for the information of the Convention has laid before us a document in which he defends the right to collect the money in the manner that it has been collected for the purpose of a civil fund.  In a state of war we have collected imposts.  We did it in the last war with Mexico; California came into the possession of our troops.  It is to be pre-supposed that after war shall have ceased, the Government of the mother country will provide a Government for the conquered territory.  A year and a half, perhaps, have elapsed; a long session of Congress has closed, and yet no more than during and after the close of the war has Congress provided for the government <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT had a word to say to gentlemen who were in the habit of preaching economy.  This House was spending day after day at an enormous expense in discussing questions which had no reference to its duties.  He was an economist himself, and he thought the best economy would be for the Convention to confine itself to its legitimate business.  He believed the estimate of salaries was reasonable enough, and he was prepared to vote for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS threw himself on the indulgence of the House to reply to some of the remarks which had been made.  He contended that this money was in the Treasury of the United States; that without an act of Congress, it could not be paid out; that Congress had never appropriated it to pay the expenses of this civil Government.  He had called upon his fellow-members to show him any law for it.  When he asked for bread, they gave him stones.  Gentlemen asserted that this subject was not properly before the House.  He (Mr. Botts,) contended that General Riley himself, by this correspondence, in which he states that his instructions authorize him to make this use of the civil fund, had put the question directly before him, and compelled him to vote upon it.  It was said we were not here to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Prayer by Rev. Mr. Willey.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Journal of Saturday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the report of the Finance Committee was taken up; the following resolution, submitted by Mr. WOZENCRAFT, being first in order:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. WOZENCRAFT, it was ordered that the vote be taken separately on the two clauses of the resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being taken on the first clause of the resolution, it was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT moved that so much of the report as was included by the clause of his resolution just agreed to, be adopted, with the exception of the per diem allowance to the interpreter, and that that be increased to $28.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS submitted the following amendment, as a substitute for Mr. Wozencraft's motion:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The per diem pay of the Secretary, Assistant Secretary, Translator, Interpreter, Clerks, and Members, (excepting the President,) be twenty-five dollars; that of the President and Reporter be fifty dollars; that of the Sergeant at-arms be twenty dollars; that of the Doorkeeper, sixteen dollars; and that of the Page, four dollars.</P>
196.sgm:<P>And the question being on Mr. Hastings amendment, it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON submitted the following amendment, as a substitute for Mr. Wozencraft's proposition:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The per diem allowance, &amp;c., of the officers and members of this Convention shall be as follows: one Secretary, $20; one Interpreter, $20; two Assistant Secretaries, $18 each; one Engrossing Clerk, $18; two Copying Clerks, $16 each; one Sergeant-at-Arms, $16; one Doorkeeper, $12; one Page, $4; one Reporter, $40; one Chaplain, $16; one Interpreting Clerk, $16; forty-three Members, $16 each; travelling allowance of members, at the rate of $16 for every twenty miles travel.</P>
196.sgm:<P>And the question being on the amendment, it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the motion to increase the Interpreter's per diem to $28, it was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved further to amend by providing that the per diem allowance of Mr. Howe, in consideration of his performing the duties of Engrossing Clerk, shall be the same as the Assistant Secretaries.</P>
196.sgm:<P>And the question being on the amendment, it was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. JONES, the per diem of the Reporter was excepted from the report of the Committee, for future consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the report of the Committee as amended--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD asked the yeas and mays; which being ordered, they resulted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Yeas--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Crosby, Dent, De la Guerra, Dominguez, Hill, Hobson, Hastings, Jones, Larkin, Lippett, Moore, McCarver, Ord, Price, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Stearns, Tefft, Vallejo, Wozencraft, President--27.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS--Messrs. Dimmick, Ellis, Given, Gilbert, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Lippincott, McDougall, Norton Sherwood, Shannon, Walker--12.</P>
196.sgm:<P>So the report, as amended, was adopted, and the per diem allowance of the officers of the Convention fixed at the following rates:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Secretary, $28; Assistant Secretaries, $23; Engrossing Clerk, $23; Sergeant-at-Arms, $22; Copying Clerk, $18; Interpreter, $28; Interpreter's Clerk, $21; Chaplain, $16; Doorkeeper, $12; Page, $4.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then being on the second clause of Mr. Wozencraft's resolution, he modified the same, so as to provide that the <HI REND="italics">consideration</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The question being taken on the second clause of Mr. Wozencraft's resolution, as modified, it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS moved the following, which was decided in the negative:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. DENT, it was--</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS, at his own request, was excused from further service on the Finance Committe, and Mr. Walker was appointed by the President to fill the vacancy.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. JONES, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Botts in the Chair, on the report of the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF THE WHOLE.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 31st Section of the report of the Committee being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>31.  Corporations may be formed under general laws, but shall not be created by special act, except for municipal purposes, and in cases where, in the judgment of the Legislature, the objects of the corporation cannot be attained under general laws.  All general laws and special acts passel pursuant to this section, may be altered from time to time, or repealed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to strike out the 31st section, and if in order, the four following, and to insert in lieu thereof, the section 2d of the 9th Article of the Constitution of Iowa, with an amendment, which he would submit in writing.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that, inasmuch as he had made a minority report on this subject, he hoped the gentleman (Mr. Jones,) would withdraw his motion, so as to permit him to offer the following amendment.  He moved to strike out from the 31st to the 36th sections, inclusive, of the majority report, and insert as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  No corporate body shall be created, renewed, or extended, with the privilege of making, issuing, or putting in circulation any bill, check, ticket, certificate, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of any bank, to circulate as money.  The Legislature of this State shall prohibit by law, any person or persons, association, company, or corporation, from exercising the privileges of banking, or creating paper to circulate as money.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  Corporations shall not be created in this State by special laws, except for political or municipal purposes; but the Legislature shall provide, by general laws, for the organization of all other corporations, except corporations with banking privileges, the creation of which is prohibited.  The stockholders of every corporation of joint stock association, shall be personally and jointly responsible for all its debts and liabilities of every kind.  The State shall not, directly or indirecly, become a stockholder in any corporation.  All general laws and special acts passed pursuant to this section, may be altered from time to time, or repealed; and all corporations shall have the right to sue, and shall be subject to be sued, in all courts, in like cases as natural persons.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD inquired if it was in order to move to strike out five or six sections, when only one was under consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR presumed that the whole report was before the Committee, and that it was in order to propose a substitute for several sections, having direct reference to the same subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The point of order giving rise to discussion,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said he would simply move to strike out the 31st section, and insert the amendment which he had just read.  If adopted, the other sections of the report would necessarily be stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES remarked that the first section proposed by the Committee provided that no corporation should be created by special act, unless the Legislature saw fit to create it.  He understood that to be the full scope and meaning of the section.  The clause to which he had reference, was in the following words: "Corporations may be formed under general laws, but shall not be created by special act, except for municipal purposes, and in cases where, in the judgment of the Legislature, the objects of the corporation cannot be attained under general laws."  In any case whatever, where, in the opinion of the Legislature, the object cannot be attained under general law, corporations therefore can be granted.  Take this clause on its own bottom, and it would allow, and in fact, soon suggest the incorporation of banks.  He wished, for that reason, to introduce the discussion of the whole subject at once.  He did not think this article could stand upon its bottom.  Every member in the House would at once see the absurdity of prohibiting the Legislature from passing acts of this kind, unless it thought proper to do so.  He was willing to submit the article to a vote upon that construction; it carried its absurdity upon its face; but if the debate was to be opened, it was necessary to know how far this clause was to be affected by subsequent sections.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPETT.  I agree entirely with the view taken by my friend from San Joaquin, (Mr Jones,) that the clause of this section, which intends to limit the Legislature, is perfectly nugatory, or will be so in effect.  I am opposed to giving the Legislature the power, in any case, to pass special acts for corporations.  For this reason alone, I should vote for the amendment.  But even if I were in favor of granting such power to the Legislature in cases where the object of the corporation could not be attained under general laws, I would object to the section as it now reads, on the grounds stated by the gentleman from San Joaquin--that the language of the clause makes the limitation perfectly nugatory.  The Chairman of the Committee (Mr. Norton,) states that special acts passed by the Legislature where the object could be attained under general laws, would be unconstitutional, and that the courts would decide the question of constitutionality.  I think not.  If such a question were raised in any court of law, it could not be entertained.  From the very reading of the clause, the question of constitutionality is left to the decision of the Legislature itself.  The Constitution, by leaving it to the discretion of the Legislature, settles the question; and it cannot be brought into court.  If that clause was stricken out of the 31st section, so that it would read "Corporations may be formed under general laws, but shall not be created by special act, except for municipal purposes," then it might be competent for a court of law to sit and hear arguments on the question; but as it stands, the right to decide is taken out of the hands of the court.  The very fact of the passage of the law, makes it conclusive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I must say it is very difficult to discuss one part of this subject without going into a discussion of the whole.  It is almost a matter of impossibility to state what effect that particular article will have, if we cannot discuss what effect the succeeding article is to produce.  But, I am, as a general principle, against the creation of corporations by special act.  I think the power is always liable to be abused.  I have seen a corporation under the name of the Sun Insurance Company, in New Orleans, for the sale of pork.  You might with this authority, with all these prohibitions and constructions staring you in the face, incorporate a body for the purpose of moulding tallow candles, and that corporation could next day issue bank notes.  There is no prohibition here, as in the Constitution of Iowa, against the issuing any bill, ticket, check, or promisory note, to circulate as money.  The only prohibition in all the articles reported by the Committee is against the circulation of bank bills.  A bank bill is a specific, determinate object.  It is well known that a bank bill is not a check or certificate of deposite.  Neither one of these would come under that definition.  Suppose a corporation were to be created by special act for the purpose of moulding tallow candles, would it not be competent for that corporation to issue paper payable at par?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I call the gentleman's attention to another section, which says there shall be no corporations for banking purposes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  Does the gentleman call a tallow-candle corporation, a corporation for banking purposes?  They have a right to use their credit.  A corporation for banking purposes is a well known object; that object is to discount paper, to receive deposites and issue notes.  But I presume any corporation has a right to issue its notes, or, if money be deposited in its hands, it has a right to issue certificates of deposite.  Now I wish to call the attention of the gentleman to the reading of this article on banks: "The Legislature shall have no power to pass any act granting any charter for banking purposes; <HI REND="italics">but associations may be formed under general laws for the deposite of gold and silver</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  This section which it is proposed to strike out, was taken literally from the Constitution of New York.  Previous to the adoption of that Constitution there were various projects for corporations before the Legislature every session; sometimes as many as eight or ten for railroads, and sometimes two or three for the formation of Cemetery corporations or Insurance Companies.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then took a recess of one hour.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 3 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JULIAN HANKS, a member from San Jose, came forward, took the oath, and was admitted to his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. JONES, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Botts in the Chair, on the report of the Committee on the Constitution, the question being on Mr. Gwin's amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I have a very few words to say on this subject.  I would call the attention of the House to one point.  There are articles on the subject proposed in the amendment in the original report of the Committee.  The gentleman's minority report proposes to substitute several articles for one.  I object to it on that ground.  I also object to it on the ground that the articles reported by the majority of the Committee are far better, and the same object may be attained under one of the articles reported by the majority, and that is, to prohibit the circulation of any check, bill, promissory note, or paper.  Why strike out one section of the report of the Committee, and then substitute for it an amendment which is afterwards carried in that report?  It seems to me to be an unprecedented proceeding.  It divides the whole subject.  If it is possible to attain the object directly, why not attain it directly, according to the rules of the House?  If we wish to limit the powers of the Legislature as is proposed in this substitute, let the question come under the proper section of the majority report--the section <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I would suggest that the 2d section of the article in the Constitution of Iowa, includes exactly the same subject as the 31st section of the report of the Committee.  I moved it this morning, but withdrew it at the request of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin.)  I now move it again.  It includes all that is in the report of the majority, and is much more to the point, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Corporations shall not be created in this State by special laws, except for political and municipal purposes; but the General Assembly shall provide, by general laws, for the organization of all other corporations, except corporations with banking privileges, the creation of which is prohibited.  The stockholders shall be subject to such liabilities and restrictions as shall be provided by law.  The State shall not, directly or indirectly, become a stockholder in any corporation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  Do I understand the gentleman as proposing this as a substitute for the 31st section?  I think it can only be offered as a substitute for the substitute proposed by the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>After some discussion as to the order of amendments, Mr. Jones withdrew his proposed amendment.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on Mr. Gwin's amendment, Mr. PRICE said:</P>
196.sgm:<P>There is no subject, Mr. Chairman, that has been, or can come, before this House, that has more importance or influence upon the future well-being of the State of California than this.  Sir, it is pregnant with the greatest amount of good or evil.  And if I have been desirous at any time to fasten my views upon this House, I am an hundred fold more desirous to convert those who hold different opinions from me on this subject; for my mind was never more decided that we should prohibit the Legislature, by our Constitution, from creating, by general or special acts, corporations to carry on any species of banking.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Constitution of the State of New York, from which the substance of the sections now under consideration is taken by the Committee, will not, I trust, be considered a guide to us.--We are representing a country and people existing under very different circumstances from what the people of the State of New York were, when they made their revised Constitution.  The people of that State sent their representatives in 1846, to revise and amend their old Constitution, which gave the most unrestrained power to their Legislature to charter banks, and these powers had been used to an unlimited extent.  The number of banks existing in the State of New York at the time (1846) of the adoption of the banking system--which it is now proposed by your Committee to engraft on the Constitution which we are forming for the future State of California--was very great, I believe some hundreds.  I have no statistics to give me the exact number, but the amount of bank notes in circulation at the time is stated to be about $105,000,000.  Now, sir, how very different are the circumstances under which we are assembled, representing as we do the people of a young and virgin territory, without banks, and whose great natural wealth is unparalled.  Her very soil is abundant and prolific in the hard metallic currency, and is now daily adding three hundred thousand dollars to the positive wealth of the country and of the world.  This gives us currency enough, and will more than pay for the supplies that are to be brought to us; and there is no occasion for us to resort to a fictitious currency, such as paper money, with its train of evils, as exhibited in the old States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, this is an original question with us.  Let us appreciate our position, and act accordingly.  The Convention of the State of New York in 1846, were not free to act upon this great principle.  They were saddled with a banking system, which had the immense amount of $105,000,000 paper money in circulation, which it would have been ruinous to their citizens to have contracted or curtailed.  They could not go as far as we can, although such was the desire expressed throughout the debate on this subject in that Convention.  They meant to reform and restrict banking privileges by the general laws which they passed.  But, I trust, sir, that the fact of these sections being found in the New York Constitution, or any other State Constitution, will have no influence here with us, who are dealing with this subject for the first time.  It is most important that we start right.  With the experience we all have, it surely will be our own fault if we do not start right.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This question, sir, is one of great importance, not only to ourselves, but to the whole Union, owing to our circumstances, position, and commercial relations--foreign and domestic.  Our commercial capital, San Francisco, is, in my opinion, destined to be the centre of the exchanges of the world, and is destined to supply the world with a large share of its currency.  With our great natural wealth, we can never want currency.  We will soon have a mint; let us not, then, allow any special privileges to corporations or associations to compete with, or paralyze, individual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>I shall move the amendment necessary to carry out these views at the proper time.  Of the two propositions before the House, I greatly prefer the substitute, or minority report, to the report of the majority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I find that the proposition to amend is so complicated, and presented in such manner, as to confuse and distract the whole matter.  It appears at one time to amend one section, and at another all the sections at once.  The gentleman introduces his proposition in this form to give a wide scope to the discussion.  That is one of the objections I have to it--the scope is too wide.  Let us narrow it down.  I am not disposed to encourage the introduction of any amendment which will bring up at once the entire report of the committee on the subject.  If I could see the whole thing in a few words, I would be willing to vote upon it, but we find in many words in the amendment the same thing set forth precisely that we find in one section of the report of the committee.  In the 34th article we find that the committee have distinctly and positively prohibited banking, and in three short lines, which would not exceed a line and a half in print.  These are the words: "The Legislature shall have no power to pass any act granting any charter for banking purposes."  We find in the proposed amendment six, and perhaps more lines, all amounting to the same thing.  It appears that there is no rule of the House on this subject, but when this portion of the report of the committee was brought before the House, it was moved to be received and taken up article by article.  This is not taking it up article by article.  It is taking up the entire report, so far as relates to corporations, altogether.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that if his motion to insert a substitute for the 31st section prevailed, the other sections, as they came up, would be stricken out as a matter of course--the whole ground being covered by his substitute.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPETT quoted the usages of parliamentary bodies in regard to amendments, and explained their application to the question under consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I have no desire to exhaust the patience of the House by saying anything more on this question; but I conceive it to be so important a subject that I would be willing, and I wish, that the gentlemen who favor the majority report should have every opportunity to discuss it fully and thoroughly.  I cannot well conceive how the question can come up on striking out this single section (the 31st) without bringing up those very points embodied in the succeeding sections.  The clause upon which this debate has principally turned is in the 31st section.  I conceive that it gives to the Legislature the power of passing all special acts, which in their judgment may seem proper.  Gentlemen who sustain the majority report say there is no difference between the two.  I can see a very material difference.  In the 31st section they say the Legislature shall have power to create, by special act, corporations for municipal purposes, when, in their judgment, the object cannot be attained under general law.  In the 32d section they say: "Dues from corporations shall be secured by such individual liability of the corporators and other means as may be prescribed by law."  In the 33d: "The term corporations, as used in this article, shall be construed to include all associations and joint-stock companies having any of the powers or privileges of corporations, not possessed by individuals or partnerships; and all corporations shall have the right to sue and shall be subject to be sued, in all courts, in like cases <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  No corporate body shall be created, renewed, or extended, with the privilege of making, issuing, or putting in circulation, any bill, check, ticket, certificate, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of any bank, to circulate as money.  The Legislature of this State shall prohibit by law, any person or persons, association, company, or corporation, from exercising the privileges of banking, or creating paper to circulate as money.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  Corporations shall not be created in this State by special laws, except for political or municipal purposes, but the Legislature shall provide, by general laws, for the organization of all other corporations, except corporations with banking privileges, the creation of which is prohibited.  The stockholders of every corporation or joint stock association, shall be personally and jointly responsible for all its debts and liabilities of every kind.  The State shall not, directly or indirectly, become a stockolder in any corporation.  All general laws and special acts passed pursuant to this section, may be altered from time to time or repealed; and all corporations shall have the right to sue and shall be subject to be sued in all courts in like cases as natural persons.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now, associations mean corporations.  We say that no such corporations shall be formed.  There is not a single article where the difference is not direct and positive.  I dislike to be obliged to get up here and discuss these articles one by one, to show that they are distinct and separate.  I wish the chairman of the committee would explain to this House the reasons why these articles should be adopted, and show where the restrictions are, show us why we should allow the Legislature to pass these special acts.  I am sorry the gentleman did not think proper to take advantage of the opportunity which was affored when these articles came up, to say something definite in their defence, in order that we who oppose the indecisive and dangerous words, and still more dangerous principles, should not have been compelled to open this debate, and bring forward our objections in the first place.  Now, I must bring forward here, because it cannot be done in any other place, one or two of these objections to the provision allowing these corporate associations.  I ask the gentleman whether the section providing for the incorporation of associations for the deposit of gold and silver, would not permit these associations to issue paper certificates of deposit.  I say if they can enter into any speculation, and take this money deposited in their hands and use it for the purpose of trade, and issue certificates of deposit, probably at par, it is, to all intents and purposes, a bank, and the worst sort of bank.  Where is their stock?  What are the individual speculators liable for?  You bind them by a bond?  What is a bond?  Cannot any lawyer pick a flaw in a bond?  Give me private and individual responsibility.  The whole system is different from the minority report.  I am prepared to go to any extent against banks in this country.  The inhabitants are against them; public opinion everywhere is against them.  We have a metallic currency here, which is worth all the banks in the world.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  It seems to be the determination of the gentlemen who compose the Select Committee, and by whom the majority report was made, not to discuss this question.  It is proper, sir, that I should give the reasons that actuated me in making the minority report, and show why it should be adopted by this House.  I believed that public sentiment was such as to render it impracticable for any provision to be introduced in this Constitution which would countenance, in the remotest degree, the banking system.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I rise to a question of order.  I insist upon it that the Committee have introduced no article in favor of banking, or giving the power to the Legislature to create banks in any form.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  If I do not prove it, then my argument is worth nothing.  I do not intend to consume the time of this House, by going into a discussion of the bank question.  That question, sir, has been settled.  Public opinion throughout the United States is against the banking system.  All I want to show is that there are dangerous provisions in these articles granting privileges to corporations of this character.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It is useless, Mr. Chairman, to fight shy any longer on this question, which has no other effect than to waste the time of the House.  The whole question of corporations and banking is open <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>I was somewhat surprised, Mr. Chairman, that the Chairman of the Committee did not put this construction on my motion, and proceed to defend the position of the majority of the Committee, as embodied in the report on the subject of corporations; this is the usual course in all parliamentary bodies with which I am acquainted.  The Chairman of a Committee, making a majority report upon an important subject, opens the debate, giving the reasons why the Committee came to the conclusion that induced them to present the subject in the shape it appeared before the House.  The minority then have the privilege of reply, and presenting their reasons for differing with the majority.  I had a right to expect that the Chairman would pursue this course, but I waive it, with a single remark in reply to his assertion, that the difference between the majority and minority reports are merely verbal.  There never was a greater mistake; they are as widely separated as if the Pacific lay between, as I will proceed to show.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It is with most unaffected reluctance, Mr. Chairman, that I engage in the discussion of this question at all.  I did hope that it had been completely settled by the advancing spirit of the age, and that no member of this body would bring forward any proposition which could in any form introduce the banking system into this country, and insist upon its insertion in the Constitution which we are about to adopt.  But I am mistaken, and am called on most reluctantly to buckle on my armor, worn in many a hard fought battle on this subject, and which I hoped was laid aside forever, and battle for the rights of the people, against monopoly and the legalized association of wealth to appropriate the labor of the many for the benefit of the few.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I will waste but little time on those sections of the report granting the power to create corporations, and leave the discussion that will no doubt take place on them, to the members of the legal profession, who will participate in this debate, and point out their defects.  Yet I cannot permit the occasion to pass without entering my protest against the discretion given to the Legislature on this subject.  The Legislature is to be the sole judge of the necessity of passing special acts for incorporations.  Constitutional restrictions are not worth a straw, if they can be set aside in this way.  I hope and believe that portion of the section will be stricken out, and what I propose in the minority report may be adopted in its stead.  Nor am I satisfied with the section making stockholders liable only for the amount of stock they may hold in the corporation.  I have so altered my substitute as to make them liable for the whole of its debts, in proportion to the amount of stock held by each party.  If one man hold a hundred shares, he shall be liable for ten times the amount of the debts of the concern as the man who holds but ten shares; but there shall be a direct liability for all the debts.  Without this there is no safeguard for the people against fraud.  Precautions should also be taken against the fraudulent transfer of stock to irresponsible persons.  A man familiar with the affairs of a corporation, aware of its approaching bankruptcy to which he may have contributed and been enriched by it, may go scot free if no guards are placed upon transfers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>But I will not go into the detail of the New York system of corporations proposed to be incorporated in our Constitution, but must declare my opposition to it as unsuited to this country.  There is no similarity in the positions and conditions of New York and California.  In the former, corporations are the institutions of ages, and have become an indivisible portion of its system of government.  What has been incorporated in the Constitution of that State is not to lay the basis of a system of corporations suited to a new country like ours, but to restrict and restrain what has existed for more than half a century.  Do you suppose we should find any thing of the kind in the New York Constitution, if her condition had been as ours is.  Never, sir!  The object of the framers of that Constitution was to correct and restrain a system that could not be eradicated with safety to the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In what respect does our position assimilate to that of New York, that we should so closely adhere to her fundamental law in forming our Constitution.  In none whatever.  We are a new people, creating from chaos a government; left free as air to select what is good, from all republican forms of government.  Our country is like a blank sheet of paper, upon which we are required to write a system of fundamental laws.  Let the rights of the people be guarded in every line we write, or they will apply the sponge to our work.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I now come to what I conceive to be the banking system, to be established by these sections of the Committee's report.  Sir, the Committee speaks out in the boldest language when it places some restrictions upon banking; it is then the bank shall not do this, and the bank shall not do that; but when they wish to steal from the people the nucleus around which a monied oligarchy may be built up in the country, the subject is approached--let me say with all due respect to the Committee, whose motives I in no wise impugn--in real petit larceny style; aye, with the cringing sycophancy of the beggar asking alms while filching your purse from your pocket.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The word <HI REND="italics">bank</HI>
196.sgm: never appears once, no, not even <HI REND="italics">corporation; that</HI>
196.sgm: might alarm the people.  Association is the magic word that is to remove every objection, and do away with every scruple.  Sir, it is a shallow device, and will deceive no one.  It reminds me of the celebrated exchequer brought before Congress after John Tyler had vetoed the United States Bank Bill.  Mr. Sargeant, the Chairman of the Committee of Ways and Means, of the House of Representatives, in introducing the bill, announced with great form and ceremony that the word <HI REND="italics">bank</HI>
196.sgm: could not be found in it; that it was no bank, but simply an exchequer, for the convenience of the Government in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Bank notes are prohibited with great parade, but not a word is said against bank certificates of deposit, with which the country may become flooded, and will be, if this section is not stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, no one familiar with the banking system as it existed in the United States from 1836 to 1840, can have forgotten how the country was flooded with post notes, corporation and individual tickets, and in many instances, certificates of deposit, precisely similar to those which these associations are authorized to issue.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It would be a curious spectacle to exhibit before this Convention the various kinds of paper in circulation, as money, during that memorable period.  I have seen collected, as a matter of curiosity and amusement, upwards of one hundred, and if I had them here, they would be the only argument required to nip this whole system in its bud.  The devices to gull and deceive the people were so many and varied that none could be so blind as not to see that the slightest authority or countenance given in this Constitution, to associations which can assume banking privileges of any kind, will, in times of high speculative excitement, lead to enormous abuses, alike destructive to the happiness and prosperity of the country.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee have not even attempted to restrict the power to issue certificates of deposit, thus in effect expressly sanctioning it.  In this cunningly devised bill, this was no omission or oversight, for the whole scheme bears evidence on its face of having been got up carefully, emasculating the section in the New York Constitution, by striking out all that might alarm the members of this body.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It may be said that no danger can result from the passage of this section; that the restrictions upon banking are so great that it will be impossible to abuse the power granted.  Believe it not.  How do they expect to make money to put the expensive machinery into operation?  How is the costly lot in the centre of the city--the fine fire proof houses--fire-proof vaults--fire proof safes, to be paid for?  The President, Cashier, Teller, Book-keepers, Messengers, &amp;c. &amp;c., to be supported simply upon the per centage charged upon the gold and silver deposit, for you will be gravely told that these associations will charge a per centage upon deposits, and thus make money to sustain themselves.  Nothing can be more fallacious.  Banks, bankers, and merchants, the world over, never charge for deposits; in fact, they seek them, and in many instances, if the amount is large, pay an interest upon them.  My friend and colleague near me, Mr. Hobson, has at time on deposit in his commercial establishment in San Francisco, upwards of one hundred thousand dollars in gold dust, and the gentleman from Monterey, Mr. Dent, says he has had from thirty to forty thousand dollars on deposit, in his store in the mines, and all without expense to the owners.  Some difficulties have doubtless heretofore existed, but they are lessening daily, and very soon deposits of gold dust and coin will be eagerly desired by safe and responsible persons.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>After further discussion on the order of amendments, Mr. GWIN, in order to prevent further difficulty on the subject, withdrew his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT then moved to amend the 31st section by striking out the words, "and in cases where, in the judgment of the Legislature, the objects of the corporation cannot be attained under general laws."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  Before this question is taken, I wish to say a few words in reply to the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Sherwood,) whose views and mine are diametrically opposed in relation to the system proposed in the 34th section of granting general privileges to associations to receive deposits of gold and silver.  Now, sir, we have the practical operation of affairs in California for the last nine months as a guide.  The commercial operations of this country are already very extensive, and the people have not asked for any such privileges yet.  They find that they can conduct their affairs very well without associations of this kind.  I am opposed to granting any privileges here which are not required by the community, and which can only have the effect of consolidating capital.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I call the gentleman to order.  He is not speaking to the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I believe I am entirely in order, sir.  I take the broad ground that the country does not require any general law, as proposed by the 34th section.  We have tried the experiment of depositing without the aid of legislative action, in San Francisco, to the amount of several millions of dollars, and I am not aware that there has been any loss or any inconvenience resulting from the manner in which these deposits are made.  The gentleman (Mr. Sherwood) tells us of the necessity of legalized associations to receive deposits and carry on the exchanges of this country.  We are clearly at issue on this point, for so far as my observation of affairs in this country extends, (and I have had some experience in monetary transactions here,) I believe it to be not only needless to create establishments of this kind, but I believe they would have a most pernicious effect upon the business interests of the community.  In regard to exchanges, I do not see what facilities these institutions would afford to the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  Does the gentleman mean to say that domestic exchanges are not needed here at all.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I say this provision will not facilitate them.  I say that exchanges of every kind, domestic and foreign, can be conducted by individuals; and that no grant should be given to corporations to do this business for individuals.  We have already places of deposit in San Francisco; there are individuals there who have constructed safe places of deposit for gold dust or coin, as may be brought to them.  Now, sir, it is proposed here to give the Legislature power to pass a general law by which persons may associate, under legislative sanction, to compete with these individuals who have already done this business without any enactments of this kind.  I have seen enough to satisfy me that all such privileges have a pernicious tendency, and would be more particularly injurious in California than any other part of the world, because they are less required and less known.  Places of deposit, sir, will keep pace with the requirements of the country, and I trust that no section which has the shadow of a banking institution in it, or which can bear the shodow of a construction under which corporations of this character can grow up, will be adopted by this House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I was with the majority of the Committee who reported this article.  On a careful examination of the subject, I have found reasons why I think <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHANNON, the Committee then rose, reported progress, and obtained leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention then adjourned to 12 o'clock, to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER-18, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In Convention.  Prayer by the Rev. Antonio Ramirez.  Journal of yesterday read, amended, and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL announced the arrival of his colleague from San Diego, Miguel de la Pedronena, and moved that he be qualified and authorized to take his seat.  Whereupon, Mr. Pedronena was duly sworn and admitted to his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL then moved that Mr. Wm. H. Richardson who was one of the five delegates elected in the District of San Diego, be also sworn, and allowed to take his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that the gentleman could not take his seat unless the existing resolution fixing the representation of the several districts was rescinded.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT said that the resolution made the apportionment of two members from San Diego.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT was willing to admit as many members from San Diego as that district was justly entitled to; but he could not see how any, in addition to the two already admitted, could be admitted under the rules of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON regarded the vote of the House upon that resolution as perfectly null and void; that they went beyond any right that they possessed, in declaring that such a district should have so many and no more members.  He believed he expressed his opinion at the time of its adoption as strongly as he could, and he had seen no cause since to change that opinion.  The bad effects of such a course were now evident.  The House was in difficulty.  The people of San Diego, under the proclamation of General Riley, had elected five delegates, and this convention had said they should have but two delegates.  The people of San Joaquin had elected ten delegates; the Convention said they were entitled to fifteen.  He thought the gentleman from San Diego (Mr. Richardson) had a perfect right to come upon this floor, and be admitted as a member.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that this was to be found in a portion of the proceedings of the House, under which they got into a difficulty about a quorum.  He recollected that he had moved a reconsideration of the vote on the resolution, and it was his understanding that the reconsideration was carried.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT explained the circumstances of the vote of the Convention on that subject.  The apportionment finally agreed upon by resolution allowed to San Diego only two members; consequently no other gentlemen could be admitted, unless that resolution was rescinded.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that if the journal proved such to be the case, he would move that the resolution be rescinded, and that the gentleman be admitted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT did not wish the House to proceed without a proper understanding of this matter.  He was in favor of admitting the gentleman, and would vote for the proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin.)  But he denied that the House should not contradict itself by its own action.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Secretary then read from the journal the order of the House fixing the representation from San Diego at two members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved that this order be so amended as to admit the member now claiming his seat, (Mr. Richardson.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR inquiried if there were not other members from other districts claiming seats.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL stated that there were none to his knowledge, except from San Diego.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK said that if this representation was to be increased, he would state, as the Chair had made the inquiry, that there were other members from San Jose who would also claim their seats.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT did not see any better way of settling the difficulty than to take the claims of the gentleman who appeared to take his seat, and settle the case at once, on its own merits.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved a suspension of the rules of the House for the purpose of reconsidering the order allowing the District of San Diego but two members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that it would require a vote of two-thirds to suspend the rule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT remarked that a good deal was said the other day by his friend from Monterey (Mr. Botts) about the elective franchise.  He thought that gentleman would not dispute that, whenever a citizen is elected by the people to any body whatever, that the fact of his election of itself proves that he has acquired a franchise of which he cannot legally be deprived.  Any member who has been elected by his fellow-citizens, and who has received his certificate of election, possesses a franchise in the rights acquired under that election.  It is therefore perfectly competent for the House to entertain a motion that the person elected, be allowed to take his seat.  The House has no right to refuse him admission or deprive him of his franchise, which they would do, if they denied him his seat, whatever may have been the previous action on the subject.  He considered that action of the House null and void, and would therefore vote in favor of whatever method was proposed, in order to meet the difficulty, and accomplish the object he had in view.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS did not intend to enter into any argument on this subject.  He thought that the oldest politician might learn something new in regard to parliamentary rules in this body.  He called the attention of the Convention to the proclamation of the Governor, fixing the ratio of representation in the first place.  Until this House reconsidered and annulled the resolution which it had adopted, it was utterly impossible to admit any delegate from San Diego, other than the two admitted under its existing decision.  The proclamation left this matter to the decision of the House.  He did not consider that either the proclamation or the Convention could deprive any man of a franchise given to him by the people, but the people having in the first place adopted the proclamation, it became their act, and the House having formed certain rules in accordance with the powers conferred upon it, could not adopt an order, and then proceed to violate that order.  It would be necessary to rescind it before any additional members were admitted from the District of San Diego.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN, to prevent further debate, moved the previous question; out at the request of Mr. McCarver, he withdrew it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said that the House must suspend its rules before it proceeded in this matter; and to suspend the rules, would require one day's notice.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved a suspension of the rules so as to admit a motion to reconsider the vote fixing the apportionment of the several districts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was decided in the affirmative, two-thirds of the members present, voting in favor thereof.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Some discussion as to the order of proceeding here took place, when the President decided the question of reconsideration to be first in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON submitted the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON subsequently modified his resolution so as to embrace a reconsideration of the entire action of the Convention on the subject of apportionment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>And the question being on the adoption of the resolution, as modified, it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN submitted the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARVER moved an indefinite postponement of the whole subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The President decided that all further action was precluded by the refusal of the Convention to reconsider the vote fixing the apportionment of the several districts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL submitted the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>And the question being on the adoption of the resolution, it was decided in the affirmative--yeas 19, nays 9.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The President appointed as said committee, Messrs. Tefft, Stearns, Wozencraft, Jones, and Sherwood.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. CROSBY, the President filled a vacancy on the Committee on Finance, occasioned by the absence of Mr. Price, by the temporary appointment of Mr. Aram.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS, from the Committee on the Boundary, made the following report, which was received, read, and referred to the committee of the whole:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. President: The committee, to whom was referred the subject of the boundary of the State of California, in accordance with a resolution of this House requiring the appointment of a committee of five to report what, in their opinion, should constitute the boundary of the State of California, have had the same under consideration, and beg leave to report the following.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Your committee are of the opinion that the present boundary of California comprehends a tract of country entirely too extensive for one State, and that there are various other forcible reasons why that boundary should not be adopted by this Convention.  The area of the tract of country included within the present boundary is estimated to be four hundred and forty-eight thousand six hundred and ninety-one (448,691) square miles, which is nearly equal to that of all the non-slaveholding States of the Union, and which, deducting the area of Iowa, is greater that that of the residue of the non-slaveholding States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Your committee are of opinion that a country like this, extending along the coast nearly a thousand miles (1,000) and more than twelve hundred miles into the interior, cannot be conveniently or fairly represented in a State Legislature here, especially as a greater part of the interior is entirely cut off from the country on the coast by the Sierra Nevada, a continuous chain of lofty mountains, which is covered with snow, and is wholly impassable nearly nine months in the year.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Your committee are also of the opinion that the country included within the boundary of this territory as now established, must ultimately be divided and sub-divided into several different States, which division and sub-divisions (should the present boundary be adopted) would be very likely to divest the State of California of a valuable portion of her sea coast.  Your committee are therefore of the opinion that a boundary should now be fixed upon which will entirely preclude the possibility of such a result in future.  Another important reason which has aided very much in producing the conclusion to which your committee have arrived, is predicated upon the fact that there is already a vast settlement in a remote portion of this territory, the population of which is variously estimated to be from fifteen to thirty thousand human souls, who are not represented in this Convention, and who, perhaps, do not desire to be represented here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The religious peculiarities of these people, and the very fact of their having selected that remote and isolated region as a permanent home, would seem to warrant a conclusion that they desire no direct political connection with us, and it is possible, and highly probable, in the opinion of your committee, that measures have been, or are now being taken by these people, for the establishment of a Territorial Government for themselves.</P>
196.sgm:<P>For the above and foregoing reasons, your committee are of the opinion that the following should constitute the boundary of the State of California, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Commencing at the northeast corner of the State at the intersection of the parallel of latitude forty-two degrees north with the parallel of longitude one hundred and sixteen west; thence south, upon and along that parallel of longitude to the boundary line between the United States and Mexico, established by the treaty of peace ratified by the said Governments at Queretaro, on the 30th day of May, 1848; thence west, upon and along the said boundary line, to the Pacific ocean; thence, in a northerly direction, following the course of the Pacific coast, to the said parallel of forty-two degrees north latitude, extending one marine league into the sea from the southern <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>All of which is respectfully submitted.<HSEP>L. W. HASTINGS, <HI REND="italics">Chairman</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then adjourned to 8 o'clock P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 8 O'CLOCK P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, from the Committee on the Constitution, reported the "Executive Department," which was received, and referred to the committee of the whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. Botts, the House then resolved into</P>
196.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF THE WHOLE,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD in the Chair, on the report of the Committee on the Constitution.  The amendment offered by Mr. Lippett, yesterday, being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>To strike out after the word "purposes," "and in cases where, in the judgment of the Legislature, the objects of the corporations cannot be attained under general laws."</P>
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196.sgm:<P>[Here Mr. Botts read a paper, the substance of which was understood to be, that it should be the duty of the Treasurer of the State to open a place of deposit for gold and silver, and to issue certificates, of suitable denominations, dollar for dollar on the amount deposited, payable on demand, which certificates were to circulate as money, being secured by actual deposits with the Treasurer, and for which the State was to be held responsible.]</P>
196.sgm:<P>The greatest genius of the age, a bank man of the very purest water, declared upon the floor of the Senate, that the greatest evil with which a country could be afflicted, was an irredeemable circulating paper medium.  I do not believe that statesman ever said a wiser or truer thing; I do not believe that any bank paper that the ingenuity of man can devise which is not covered dollar for dollar by actual capital, can be other than the ruinous system to which Mr. Webster alluded.  I do not believe it is possible to pay three dollars with one.  There may be some gentlemen on this floor who have had experience in that experiment; but I consider it the hardest matter in the world.  Now, sir, that is the foundation of all your circulating banks.  I grant you there are times, when these banks have the full faith and confidence of the community, when they can redeem with a certain portion of gold and silver; but when a foreign debt is to be paid, which has usually to be paid with the products of the country; when these products fall short, when your corn crop or tobacco is deficient, there then occurs what is called a run upon the banks.  Individuals who have their debts to pay abroad, unable to purchase cotton or tobacco unless at a very high rate, find it cheaper to export gold and silver.  They come upon the banks, and if, by force of circumstances, the scarcity in the crops should be general, the banks must necessararily fail, being unable to pay three dollars with one.  The consequence is, ruin and desolation are spread throughout the country.  But it is not worth my while here to expatiate on the evils of bank paper.  It has been stated, and I hope it is true that a majority of this House are opposed to the system.  I hope every gentleman on this floor feels as deeply as I do the ruinous effects of bank paper.  I hope there is not a member present who disguises his opinions, or desires to steal through this House a bank in disguise.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I do not propose to discuss at length all the questions suggested by the gentleman, (Mr. Botts.)  I have no particular objection to the amendment propose by my colleague, (Mr. Lippett,) to the section under consideration.  I thought when the report was made, and I still think, that the section as it stands is not only just but a very proper one.  It provides for the passage of general laws granting corporate privileges, and in some cases where, in the judgment of the Legislature, the object of the corporation cannot be attained by general laws, although it may be perfectly legitimate and proper, it provides that special acts may be passed.  I do not believe, sir, that a body of men coming directly from the people are going to do what they know the people do not desire.  They are too closely connected with the people themselves; they come too directly from the people, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I expressly disclaimed any remarks of that kind, in reference to this clause.  I said that banks might steal into our Constitution in spite of the vigilance of the Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I did not intend to say you made any reflection upon the Committee.  In regard to restricting the powers of municipal corporations, to which the gentleman referred, I believe the subject is fully covered in section 37:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"It shall be the duty of the Legislature to provide for the organization of cities and incorporated llages, and to restrict their powers of taxation, assessment, borrowing money, contracting debts, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>That covers the whole ground.  It gives the Legislature the privilege of incorporating, for municipal purposes, towns and villages, and at the same time so to restrict their powers as not to render them oppressive upon the people.  I believe then, with general laws for the purpose of granting corporate privileges, these institutions will not only be a great benefit to the corporators themselves, but to the people at large; and that they will not favor any set of men.  All persons who choose can employ their capital in this way for their own benefit, and for the benefit of the people at large.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I merely rise to say that I am in a quandary, and while the amendment is being translated for the Spanish gentlemen, I will endeavor to explain what it is.  I must protest against the course of my friend from Monterey, (Mr. Botts,) in making his speech this evening.  If he had made it this morning it would have been all right.  I think I have discovered in this article, reported by the Committee, a very fine opening for a small bank.  Now, in pursuance of this idea, I have even gone so far as to draw up a fac simile of one of my bank bills over a certificate of deposit.  If the bank could be got up on this principle, I have no doubt it would be a very respectable fiscal agent.</P>
196.sgm:<P>[Here Mr. Jones exhibited an etching of a bank bill, designed in pursuance of the power which he contended was conferred upon him under this clause.]</P>
196.sgm:<P>This is a bank bill to all intents and purposes, although it professes to be nothing more than a certificate of deposit.  It is a very excellent and beautiful circulating medium; and any number of gentlemen, under the head of an association for the deposit of gold and silver, might very well make and issue such a circulating medium.  No court in the country could condemn them for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I call the gentleman to order.  He is not speaking on the subject before the House.  The debate is on the 31st section, and not upon the section which comes up afterwards, relating to the establishment of associations for the deposit of gold and silver.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that, owing to the latitude of debate customary in Committee of the Whole, it hat not attempted to impose any restraint upon gentlemen who had availed themselves of the privileges usual in bodies of this kind.  The Chair considered that as one part of the subject had a direct bearing upon the other parts, it was not out of order to discuss the whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN had always supposed that the object of a Committee of the Whole was to allow the fullest and widest discussion on all subjects appertaining to the business of the House.  He desired that every gentleman should have liberty to speak his sentiments fully and freely, without the restrains necessarily imposed, when the subjects have been thoroughly discussed in Committee, and come up for final action in the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I hold the whole system to be embodied in the different sections.  The adoption of one leads necessarily to the adoption of another.  I am compelled, in discussing the subject, to take up the entire system.  If I hold the system to be radically wrong, I hold that I have a right to attack it either at the tail or the head.  If I choose to expose the absurdity of the beginning, I have a right to expose the absurdity of the end.  I was going to remark that I thought I had seen in the admendment of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Lippett.) a complete knockdown to all speculations; but a section comes up in the rear of it, which destroys all its force.  Now I have this to say, I will take this circulating medium which I hold in my hand, and make it pass, throughout the State, to all intents and purposes as bank paper, and no Court of Justice will decide it to be illegal or unconstitutional.  It will be the worst and most irredeemable bank paper ever inflicted upon a community.  I can see no difference between certificates of deposit and bank paper.  I should think the man who would vote for these certificates, would vote for a bank.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT called for the question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said he did not believe the House was prepared for the proposition which he had submitted in the course of his remarks.  He would therefore withdraw it, with the intention of offering it in the House instead of the Committee, leaving a few days for reflection.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Lippett's ammendment, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the section as amended, it was adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>31.  Corporations may be formed under general laws, but shall not be created by special act, except for municipal purposes.  All general laws and special acts, passed pursuant to this section, may be altered from time to time or repealed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken without debate on the 32d and 33d sections, and they were adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>32.  Dues from corporations shall be secured by such individual liability of the corporations, and other means, as may be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>33.  The term corporations, as used in this article, shall be construed to include all associations and joint stock companies having any of the powers or privileges of corporations not possessed by individuals or partnerships.  And all corporations shall have the right to sue, and shall be subject to be sued, in all Courts in like cases as natural persons.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 34th section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>34.  The Legislature shall have no power to pass any act granting any charter for banking purposes; but associations may be formed under general laws for the deposit of gold and silver.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to strike out all after the word "purporses," to the end of the section.  He had a substitute to propose, but to avoid embarrassing the question would not submit it until the last section came up for consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I would simply remark, before the vote is taken, that the object of this section is to afford protection to deposits of gold and silver.  I, as an individual, may keep an office of deposit, receive gold and silver, and issue my certificates of deposit.  No Legislature, no Constitution, can prevent me.  Associations may do the same thing, and you cannot prevent them.  Your laws can prevent them, for they have a right to do it.  The object of the section is to give to the Legislature the power of providing, in such manner as it may deem best, for the protection of persons in the deposit of gold and silver.  Now, if laws can be passed affording this protection, rendering the depositories perfectly secure, it is much better than to depend upon individuals, upon whom no restriction is placed by the Legislature.  This is all that the section attempts to attain.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  It covers a great deal more ground than that.  Banks can grow up under it--banks of the worst kind; and for this reason I move to strike it out.  I have heard one argument in favor of it, which may be worthy of notice.  It is said that after we grow up to be a large commercial community, say in two or three years hence, such associations will be absolutely essential to the transaction of business.  Sir, long before this necessity exists the people of California will meet in Convention and make another Constitution.  In the mean time, when there is no pressing necessity for associations of this kind, I think it of the utmost importance that such a provision, upon which there is so great a difference of opinion, should not appear in this Constitution.  I have heard a good deal of the exchanges of the country, and the necessity of these associations to carry them on.  Look at the Island of Cuba, sir; at Havana, where they collect eleven millions annually.  The income of that city is eleven millions; and yet they have nothing of the kind there--nothing in the shape of banking.  The State that includes the great commercial emporium of the valley of the Mississippi has inserted in her late Constitution a provision prohibiting such associations forever.  It is my solemn conviction that banking institutions may spring up under this section.  I look upon it as a duty that we owe to the country to strike it out.  If the people want it hereafter they will put it in another Constitution.  Let us not do it; let us be as nearly unanimous in regard to this Constitution as we can.  There is a solemn conviction on the minds of the members of this Convention that any thing that gives the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I am convinced there is an honest difference of opinion in regard to this matter.  I believe that each member on this floor has the good of California in view.  The Committee, I am sure, had no intention of reporting in favor of the banking system.  There was a general feeling on the part of the members against permitting banks of any kind to be created under the powers granted to the Legislature.  I entertained the belief when the subject first came up, and I still hold the same opinion, that the powers granted under this section cannot be abused.  I believe such associations to be actually necessary in this country at the present period; that we need not wait for any future period to render them necessary.  The fact that associations for the deposit of gold and silver now exist, is sufficient proof that they are necessary.  They will continue to exist; they must continue as long as the community requires them.  I look upon this clause as merely affording the additional security of legislative protection to the individuals depositing their gold and silver.  I should most assuredly vote for the rejection of this article, did I believe for a moment that bank paper could be issued under it; but as I do not believe such to be the effect, I feel constrained to vote for retaining it as a necessary provision of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I agree with the gentleman last up, as to the necessity of this provision.  The Committee were unanimous in their desire to prohibit banks for the circulation of bank paper, properly so called.  When this article was introduced, I made inquiries of persons engaged in business as to the necessity of some legislative action on this point, and the propriety of providing for it in the Constitution.  I was informed that such necessity did exist; and I believe the general feeling of the business community would be in favor of it.  I shall therefore vote against the amendment striking out the last clause of this section.  If it be necessary, in order to prevent the circulation of bank notes springing out of this clause, to add further restrictions, let us do it.  It can very easily be done.  There is an obvious necessity for these associations.  They exist already; and it is proper they should be put under the direction of law, for the security of persons making deposits.  If we pass the section as it stands, we can easily introduce after it such prohibitions against the circulation of paper of any description as the House think proper.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I shall detain the House but a few moments on this section.  I think it hardly fair that two or three should speak on one side without something being said on the other side.  The latter clause of this section contains, in my opinion, a system quite as dangerous to this country as banks.  What responsibility are they to have?  What is to prevent these associations from speculating on the money in their possession?  We are told that there will be guaranties provided by law.  Sir, I don't want to trust it to the Legislature.  If we do, why not trust the whole subject--why put these restrictions upon the Legislature?  Why not submit the whole banking system to the discretion of the Legislature?  We are guarding here against bad Legislature; we are not making provisions for good ones.  If we supposed them to be as wise and virtuous as they are represented to be by some gentlemen, we would put no restrictions upon them whatever.  I want to see restrictions effective, and not merely nominal.  We are told that associations for the deposit of gold and silver must be governed by law--that this subject requires legislative protection.  Sir, it is governed by law; the best kind of law:  it is governed by the law which says that a man shall pay his debts, or loose his property and perhaps his personal liberty.  But you build up an institution by special act; you build a man's reputation up by special act; you say he is entitled to receive deposits.  Sir, a man who has wealth and standing does not require legislative enactments to make the community trust him.  These deposits, if you leave them alone, will go where they ought to go; they will go into the safest and most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The question being on the amendment of Mr. Gwin, to strike out the latter clause of the section, it was decided in the negative, by ayes 18, noes 19.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the adoption of the 34th Section,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN offered the following amendment as a portion of the same section:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"And the Legislature shall pass penal enactments for the punishment of the officers and stock-holders of any association that may be formed under the authority herein granted, or any other person or persons who shall be convicted of making, issuing, or putting in circulation, any bill, check, ticket, certificate of deposit, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of any bank, to circulate as money."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  I had not intended to make any further remarks on this subject, under the impression that it was sufficiently discussed. I voted to strike out the latter clause of this section, but there I must stop.  I cannot support this amendment.  I am in favor of all necessary restrictions to prevent any thing like banking; but I think the present restriction would be utterly impracticable.  If we form associations, it will be absolutely necessary that they should issue certificates.  We must have these evidences of deposit to put in our pockets, and sue them upon if they refuse to pay.  If the managers of these associations choose to put pictures upon their certificates of deposit; if they put the goddess of justice on one corner, and a grizzly bear on another, I would be unwilling to make it a penal enactment, not because I am in favor of the circulation of this sort of money, but because it would be utterly impracticable to prevent the issue of these certificates.  If I had ten thousand dollars which I desired to deposit with a friend, or association, or corporation, I should certainly require some memorandum acknowledging the deposit; and when I had that, it would be very hard indeed if I should not have the privilege of selling it, without subjecting myself to penal law.  Such a restriction would be impracticable.  Suppose I have no other means?  I must sell it to pay my necessary expenses, or dispose of it in some shape or other.  I carry it to some gentleman in town and ask him to give me the money for it.  But, for doing this, I am liable to be put in the penitentiary.  If it be the disposition of the Convention to permit these associations at all, they must be permitted to issue certificates of deposit.  I voted against all the preceding articles because I want no banks or bank paper; but this section would be an absurdity with the restriction proposed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I am sorry the gentleman flinches so soon in the argument.  If it is not intended to pass the certificate of deposit for money, there is no restriction.  No man maintains that it should be used as a currency.  If, therefore, it is not intended to make a currency of it, what objection can there be to provide in this section that no paper shall ever circulate as money, and if it is done, that it shall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I have seen the result of a trial in a court of justice upon exactly such a penal clause as is proposed by my friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin.)  I have seen a penal law which prohibited an individual from issuing his promissory note, check, or bond, for the purpose of circulating as money.  It turned, as it ought to have turned, simply upon the intent.  All the circumstances under which these shinplasters were issued went to the jury.  The individual had issued his checks in printed form, in great numbers, and of small denominations.  From these circumstances it was evident they were intended to circulate as money, and the individual was accordingly fined.  They could come to no other conclusion.  The paying of a washerwoman's bill, or board bill, or any other, such as the gentleman from Sonoma (Mr. Semple) referred to, is not such a circumstance as would lead to this conclusion.  But there may be circumstances, and they do exist, such as every gentleman here seems desirous to provide against.  I look upon that clause, as it stands, as fraught with evil.  It is the wooden horse introduced by the Greeks within the walls of Troy, from the body of which will come forth thousands of armed men.  Sir, I fear the Greeks when they proffer gifts, and I very much fear there are Greeks in the midst of us.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I consider the gist of that amendment, as offered, a fair test of my sincerity.  I am entirely and absolutely opposed to the circulation of any sort of bank paper.  But if I do not misunderstand the effect of the amendment I shall certainly oppose it.  I was in Wisconsin when the first Convention was called to form a Constitution for that State.  In that Convention there were some of the strongest anti-bank men I ever knew, and a clause was inserted in the Constitution providing against the circulation of any kind of bank paper.  They made it a penal offence for any person to have in his possession a bank bill, or attempt to pass it.  That Constitution was rejected by the people.  Another Convention was called, and that Convention inserted in the Constitution an article precisely similar, omitting the penal offence.  Now, I am willing to go as far as the gentleman from San Francisco, or any other gentleman, in prohibiting banks or the circulation of bank paper, but I cannot vote for the amendment making it a penal offence to pass a certificate of deposit.  The question of currency is one of momentous import.  It should never have been made a party question in the States--subject to the fluctuating influences of political factions.  The financial policy of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I do not intend that the vote shall be taken on my amendment under a misapprehension.  Every person who has any knowledge of commercial affairs knows that what the gentleman from Sonoma (Mr. Semple) refers to in the Island of Cuba is a mere matter of convenience in the absence of banks.  It is the commercial way of transacting business, and as a certificate of deposit in a commercial point of view, it has no bearing upon the point at issue.  It is not circulating it as money to transfer it from one portion of the country to another.  It is purely a commercial transaction; it is commercial paper for commercial purposes.  But if the gentleman deposits $1,000 and takes out a thousand dollars in five and ten dollar notes, expressly to circulate as money, and puts them in circulation throughout this country, then it is money, and that is what this amendment is intended to cover.  As to the necessity of these associations for the benefit of the commercial community, it is notorious that they are not wanted.  In San Francisco there are associations now, that, instead of charging for the deposit of gold and silver, are willing to pay a premium on deposits.  No commercial community requires any legislative interference with their manner of depositing.  What the gentleman speaks of as to the convenience, in the case to which he alludes in Alabama, refers merely to a bank check.  It is not money, and it is not circulating it as money to send it from Alabama to be paid in Philadelphia.  This amendment is to prohibit the circulation of certificates of deposit as money.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  Several gentlemen who have agreed to these sections as they were first offered by the Committee, and who are very anxious to obviate the objections which have been made, have proposed an amendment very slightly differing from the amendment of the gentleman from San Francisco, in order that there may be unanimity not only in the Committee, but in the House and out of the House, on this subject.  I now offer it as an amendment to his amendment, putting in the restrictions which he has there, but not making it a penal offence.  This amendment is to commence after the words as they now stand in the section, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>But no such association shall make, issue, or put in circulation, any bill, check, ticket, certificate, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of any bank, to circulate as money.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I should like to know, if that amendment is adopted, what would be the result if any individual should issue paper under these circumstances.  I suppose you would say it was a violation of the Constitution:  that is the only restraint or punishment so far as I can see.  I submit it to gentlemen who honestly want some restraint, if that satisfies them?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  The gentleman will see, upon a little further reflection, in what position that individual would place himself.  He violates the Constitution, it is true; but he is subject to any law that the Legislature may enact to punish him.  The Legislature may make it penal.  We are forming an organic law of the State, and not passing penal enactments.  The Legislature may pass such laws as it deems necessary to sustain the provisions of the Constitution.  We are not legislating; nor were we legislating, as the gentleman from Monterey justly contended, when we were debating the bill of rights.  Has the nature of our duties changed because we have arrived at another part of the Constitution?  I think such a doctrine as that will hardly be maintained.  I am prepared to vote for the amendment as it now stands.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on Mr. Halleck's amendment to the amendment offered by Mr. Gwin, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Gwin's amendment, as amended, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the 34th section, as amended--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  It seems that we have now arrived at the main question before the House.  I am opposed to the adoption of that article.  It introduces a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The section, as amended, was then read by the Secretary and adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>34.  The Legislature shall have no power to pass any act granting any charter for banking purposes; but associations may be formed under general laws for the deposit of gold and silver.  But no such association shall make, issue, or put in circulation, any bill, check, ticket, certificate, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of any bank, to circulate as money.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the adoption of the 35th section, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>35.  The Legislature shall have no power to pass any law sanctioning, in any manner, directly or indirectly, the issuing of bank notes of any description.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS said it contained, substantially, the same prohibition as that which had just been adopted.  He therefore moved to strike it out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK was also of opinion that the two sections covered the same object, and therefore concurred in the propriety of striking out the latter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS compared them; and, the question being taken, the 35th section was stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT offered the following in lieu of the section stricken out:</P>
196.sgm:<P>35.  The Legislature of this State shall prohibit, by law, any person or persons, association, company, or corporation, from exercising the privileges of banking, or creating paper to circulate as money.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I voted in favor of striking out the 35th section for the express purpose of proposing that which my colleague has anticipated me in.  The Committee has at length got itself into the predicament of having prohibited the Legislature from granting any charter for banking purposes; and, at the same time, tacitly allowing any person or persons, associations or companies, except those particular associations named in the article just passed, to exercise any of the privileges of banking.  I claim to understand English when it is read to me plainly; and I think if gentlemen will closely examine this section they will find that interpretation to be a just one.  There is no prohibition against banking, in so far as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The Secretary thereupon read the 34th section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then being on the 35th section, as proposed by Mr. Wozencraft, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 36th section of the report of the Committee being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>36.  The stockholders of every corporation or joint stock association shall be individually responsible to the amount of their respective share or shares of stock in any such corporation or association for all its debts and liabilities of every kind.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to strike out the section and insert the following; which was adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>36.  Each stockholder of a corporation or joint stock association shall be individually and personally liable for his proportion of all its debts and liabilities.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 37th and 38th sections were then passed, without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>37.  It shall be the duty of the Legislature to provide for the organization of cities and incorporated villages, and to restrict their powers of taxation, assessment, borrowing money, contracting debts, and loaning their credit, so as to prevent abuses in their assessments and in contracting debts by such municipal corporations.</P>
196.sgm:<P>38.  In all elections by the Legislature the members thereof shall vote <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD then offered the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No person, while he continues to exercise the functions of a clergyman, priest, or teacher of any religious persuasion, society, or sect, shall be eligible to the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  You might as well say a lawyer should not have a seat in the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  If this question is to be debated, I move the Committee rise and report progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I voted the other day against introducing restrictions of this character in the Constitution.  We have no right to dictate to the people what shall be the professional character of their representatives.  I am in favor of leaving it to themselves to determine from among what classes or professions they shall select persons to represent them in the Legislature.  If they think fit to select a priest, let them do so if they choose.  Why, sir, you are assuming despotic powers when you attempt, through your Constitution, to tell the people they shall not select their own candidates.  This was one of the restrictions contained in the old Constitution of New York; but which, with all other restrictions of that character, was stricken out by the Convention of 1846.  It was regarded there as an anti-republican principle and totally inconsistent with the spirit of our institutions.  Upon this broad principle, that the people of the State have a right to select their representatives from whatever profession or class of society they choose, I shall oppose the introduction of the proposed section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I move to amend it by inserting the words "Lawyers, physicians, or merchants."  If ministers of the gospel are to be excluded, we must act impartially and exclude other classes of men.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  Will the gentleman be so good as to introduce "miners" in his list?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I think, sir, that a minister of the gospel would make a better legislator than a lawyer--far less troublesome, at all events; and probably quite as good as a merchant.  I am opposed to the principle of allowing ministers of the gospel to legislate for me--unless the people elect them.  They must be the judges of these things.  If there is any prohibition against ministers, or priests, it should extend to all other professions.  A good honest preacher, who has the morals of the community at heart, would make one of the best legislators in the world.  To prevent further discussion, however, I withdraw my amendment.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed section, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I have one word to say in regard to an absent member of this House.  General McCarver, who is now absent on account of sickness, has been two or three days watching for the 37th section to come up, so that he could offer his free negro amendment.  It is a subject in which he takes a deep interest, and I hope the Committee, without proceeding any further, will now rise.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was adopted, and the House then adjourned till 12 o'clock to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by the Rev. T. D. Hunt.  The journal of yesterday was read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART, a member from San Francisco, elect, appeared, was sworn, and took his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Some conversation here occurred on a motion of Mr. Shannon, relative to the absence of two members without leave; but the motion was finally withdrawn.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, from the Committee on the Constitution, made a report in writing, being Article VI, on "the militia," Article VII, on "State debts," Article IX, on the "mode of amending and revising the Constitution;" which, on motion of Mr. GILBERT, was received, and referred to the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. McCARVER, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Jones in the Chair, on the report of the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF THE WHOLE.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER then moved the following section:</P>
196.sgm:<P>39.  The Legislature shall, at its first session, pass such laws as will effectually prohibit free persons of color from immigrating to and settling in this State, and to effectually prevent the owners of slaves from bringing them into this State for the purpose of setting them free.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  This is the article which I offered to the House some time ago.  I withdrew it at the suggestion of several gentlemen who thought it would be more appropriate in another part of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I have no doubt, sir, that every member of this House is aware of the dangerous position in which this country is placed, owing to the inducements existing here for slaveholders to bring their slaves to California and set them free.  I am myself acquainted with a number of individuals who, I am informed, are now preparing to bring their slaves here upon indentures and set them free.  I hold it to be a correct doctrine, sir, that every State has a right to protect itself against an evil so enormous as this.  No population that could be brought within the limits of our Territory could be more repugnant to the feelings of the people, or injurious to the prosperity of the community, than free negroes.  They are idle in their habits, difficult to be governed by the laws, thriftless, and uneducated.  It is a species of population that this country should particularly guard against.  I believe large numbers will be brought here and thrown upon the community in a short time, unless we take urgent measures to prohibit their introduction.  No measure would be more effectual, in my opinion, than this provision in our fundamental law.  If it does not produce the desired effect, the Legislature can pass such penal enactments as will enforce it.  In Illinois an effort of this kind was made, and finding they were unable to carry the measure in the Convention, they left it to the vote of the people of the State whether it was to be appended to the Constitution or not.  What was the result?  A majority of twenty thousand of the voters of the State were in favor of it.  And, sir, I am of opinion that a greater number of votes would be given in favor of it here, because the dangers to which this country is exposed, from the superior inducements presented, would be so much greater.  They have not gold mines such as we have here, in Illinois.  Even the slaveholding States have made provisions to prevent the immigration of free negroes within their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I presume, Mr. Chairman, that I shall stand nearly alone in a minority on this subject, but I cannot let it pass without at least expressing some <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  In relation to the gentleman's objections to the latter part of the resolution, I do not see how he arrives at the conclusion that it is nugatory or void of effect.  It is certain that when the slaveholder sees in the Constitution of California a prohibition against the introduction of slavery, he would, in bringing his slaves here, bring them to set them free.  The object of the latter part of the section is to prevent the slaveholder from bringing his slaves here to be set free by the laws of California.  The gentleman cannot conceive what object the slaveholder would have in going to this expense.  If he could make a profitable speculation by working them in the mines for a limited period there would be a very strong inducement; and the very fact that such speculations have been and are about to be commenced, sufficiently demonstrates that they are considered lucrative.  The first view I took was that we should pass a law prohibiting colored persons from being brought here under indentures; but that did not cover the whole ground so well as my present resolution.  What is the condition of some of the States?  Kentucky, I am told, is now holding a Convention for the purpose of setting at liberty their slaves.  How many of my friends there would be glad to come here and get the value of their negroes, before the acts of that Convention <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  The gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. McCarver) has stated that some provision of this kind is contained in most of the State Constitutions of the United States.  I should like to know what Constitutions they are?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  It is a provision of the Constitution of Illinois, and most of the States have made laws for the same purpose--the prohibition of free negroes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I am not surprised that a debate has taken place on this question.  The subject was brought up some time since, and I supposed at the time that it would give rise to considerable difference of opinion.  I am prepared myself to vote without further agitation of the subject.  I voted in favor of the clause introduced in our Constitution prohibiting the introduction of slavery.  I think it equally important that we should exclude the African race; and, strange as it may appear, I wish to do this from philanthropic motives.  I think it better for that race that they should be excluded.  I must say that the gentleman's remarks (Mr. Shannon's) were of the most latitudinarian character when he asserted that in all the States negroes are necessary for society; that they are indispensable to domestic comfort and happiness.  Why, sir, of all the States that I have any knowledge of, either free or slave States, it is admitted by all, whether philanthropists for blacks or for all mankind, that the free negro is one of the greatest evils that society can be afflicted with.  Many of the States have had sad experience in this sort of population, and have made provisions against their introduction.  Ohio has tried the experiment of free black population.  I know an instance there where a quantity of the best land was bought for them, improved and ready for cultivation.  The result was, as stated by the gentleman from Sonoma, (Mr. Semple,) that instead of tilling the soil, they went to stealing, and were soon thrown on the community for support.  I think, if we wish to protect the citizens of California in any thing, we should protect them in the right to labor--one of the most inestimable of all rights.  We should protect them against the monopolies of capitalists who would bring their negroes here.  We should protect them against a class of society that would degrade labor, and thereby arrest the progress of enterprise and greatly impair the prosperity of the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  We have introduced into our bill of rights a clause permitting foreigners to exercise the same rights in reference to holding lands and enjoying the political privileges of this country which we enjoy ourselves.  I shall not discuss that matter.  It stands as a self-evident fact--as an axiom asserted in our bill of rights.  Now it is proposed to do what?  Not to extend to a greater degree this freedem to foreigners; not to extend political freedom further to any class; but to say that a certain class of Americans born in the United States--their forefathers born there for many generations--shall be excluded from entering this Territory at all!  I am not so strenuous, sir, as to this being done by legislative enactment if the people deem it necessary or expedient; but I am clearly opposed to a provision of this kind in the Constitution, on the ground of principle and consistency.  What will be said of our Constitution if we assert one thing in our bill of rights--extend the privileges of our free institutions to all classes, both from foreign countries and our own, and then in another exclude a class speaking our own language, born and brought up in the United States, acquainted with our customs, and calculated to make useful citizens.  We even debar <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I shall not detain the House; but to me this is a very dark subject.  I have some doubts as to the manner in which I shall vote.  Perhaps, when it is known upon what my doubts are founded, some gentleman will be kind enough to enlighten me.  Mr. Chairman, it is a fundamental declaration made by us in our bill of rights, or whether made by us or not it is true, that all men are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL offered the following substitute:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature of this State shall at its first session creat enactments against the introduction into this State of any negro or negroes who has or have been slaves previously in any of the States of this Union, or of any other country, and who are brought here under bonds or indentures of servitude.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr.  BOTTS enquired of the Chairman of the Committee on the Constitution, whether the Committee proposed to introduce any provision in the Constitution with respect to the common law.  He thought this matter should be left in the hands of the Committee, and he desired to know whether they intended reporting upon it, and if so in what part of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said that the Committee had not had the subject under consideration at all.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, the Committee then rose, reported progress, and obtained leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House took a recess till 4 o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 4 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GILBERT, the House resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, (Mr. JONES in the Chair,) on the report of the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The consideration of the motion of Mr. McCARVER, as proposed to be amended by Mr. McDOUGAL, being first in order,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON said: I cannot conscientiously allow this proposition to pass, without answering some of the arguments which have been urged in support of it.  I regret that old Sacramento should be divided on this question; but although there may be a division among her representatives here, it will not prevent me from adhering to what I conceive to be the opinions and sentiments of my constituents.  By what course of argument my colleague from Sacramento (Mr. Hastings) arrived at his conclusions, I am unable to say.  He must reconcile that matter with his constituents as he thinks proper.  The gentleman, although he declared that he was in doubt upon this question--that it was a dark subject--one he could not see through--yet declared that he was determined to vote one particular way, no matter what reasons might be urged in favor of a different course.  With him, and with all who express such a determination, I wish to have nothing to do.  It is useless to attempt to convince them.  I called this morning before the Convention adjourned upon my colleague, (Mr. McCarver,) to inform me what States and what number of States contained in their Constitutions provisions excluding free negroes.  He answered me that it was contained in the Constitution of Illinois, and also that there had been legislative enactments in several of the States--in all, or nearly all, of the slaveholding States, against their admission.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  It is certainly in the Constitution of Illinois.  It was put there by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  One word in relation to this matter of freemen.  I am not fully prepared to advocate the passage of the resolution offered by the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. McCarver,) but I am decidedly in favor of some action in regard to this matter.  I am opposed to the introduction into this country of negroes, p&oelig;ons of Mexico, or any class of that kind; I care not whether they be free or bond.  It is a well established fact, and the history of every State in the Union clearly proves it, that negro labor, whether slave or free, when opposed to white labor, degrades it.  That is the ground upon which I oppose the introduction of this class of persons.  It is said that we have declared in our Constitution, and should adhere to that declaration, that all men are by nature free and independent, entitled to certain inalienable rights.  Most assuredly I believe that to be so.  I believe that all men are free and equally entitled to the enjoyment of liberty and independence.  But does it follow that we are to allow certain objectionable classes of men to emigrate here and settle in California.  What is a sovereign State?  An association of men having the same interests--a family of brothers bound together by the same social and politcal ties.  When the State proclaims all men free and equal, does it follow that all men are to be admitted into this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I presume to tell the gentleman from San Luis Obispo that he has not seen everything in the States in which he resided.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I say that the statement made by the gentlemen is not warranted by the facts.  I contend that they do not understand, and cannot appreciate the blessings of freedom.  I assert it as a well established fact; and the condition of the free negroes in the free States warrants me in making the assertion.  I am utterly opposed to allowing them to come here and settle in California, either as freemen or slaves.  Efforts have been made to make better men of them; but I ask every reasonable man if these efforts have not most signally failed.  Gentlemen are no doubt acquainted with many instances where grants of lands have been made to them, and the result of which has proved an entire failure.  Grants were made to them in Canada.  Many citizens, from mistaken notions of philanthropy, assisted in taking runaway negroes, and carrying them into Canada to make them free.  What has been the result?  I lived in New York close by the line, and I know this to be the fact: that where these communities of free negroes are located on the lands granted to them, they are an idle, worthless, and depraved population.  Instead of tilling the soil, they have taken to stealing; they are too indolent to work, and too depraved to be governed by ordinary laws.  I have no prejudice against the negro because of his color.  I object to their introduction here, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  The amendment of the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. McDougal) has been overlooked in the consideration of the original proposition.  I cannot consent to vote for that amendment.  He makes a distinction between those negroes or colored gentlemen who have always been free, and those who have always been slaves.  I think it hardly necessary to divide the subject in that way; it is rather a nice distinction.  I wish to vote against the admission of all colored men of the African race.  I am not capable of distinguishing between the respective merits of the two classes.  Permit me now to notice a remark of my friend from Sacramento, (Mr. Hastings.)  He asks some gentleman to relieve him in regard to the doubts which he entertains as to the consistency of a provision of this kind, after the broad declaration in our bill of rights, that all men are free and entitled to the privileges of freemen.  If I can in the least remove that troubled cloud that hangs over his mind, I will endeavor to relieve him.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  No, sir, you have already relieved me.  I beg you will not trouble yourself to go into an argument--I am relieved, sir--perfectly relieved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I must explain, nevertheless; it can do the gentleman no harm.  I stated this morning that if we desired that the African should remain free, we had better enact laws to prevent them from coming here.  For, depend upon it, sir, so soon as they come among us, though we have a clause prohibiting slavery, they will be slaves to all intents and purposes.  The African will always be subservient to the Caucasian.  It is his nature to be so--he must be so.  If we wish to avoid placing them in a position of servitude, we must exclude them.  We must never bring them in competition with our own labor, for if we do, they cannot maintain an equality with the white man; and they will either become slaves in effect, or we must give up our white labor.  They are an evil that will grow and become fastened upon us.  I see no act of injustice to any class of men in prohibiting them from coming here; on the contrary, I conceive that we are simply doing justice to ourselves.  I shall vote against the amendment and in favor of the original resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  Of all lands threatened with evils, California seems to be the most unfortunate.  One gentleman tells us that these vagrant negroes, this miserable herd of thieves, are capable of getting the means to come to California.  Another gentleman, or perhaps the same one, intimates that they will work in the mines with all the industry of which man is capable; that they are of industrious habits, and will toil honestly for the precious gold.  Another tells us they will be brought here by their masters who now hold them in servitude, when our Constitution says they are free the very moment they arrive.  A section is now offered as an amendment by which these negroes, now held as slaves, and who may be brought here under bonds to labor, not as slaves, but as apprentices, shall be excluded; and that is objected to on the same grounds.  Now, sir, it is well known that the negroes of the States are incapable of getting to this country.  Their habits of life, their indolence, and deficiency in force of character, render this almost impracticable.  I am not in favor of their coming here; and if we make any addition to what has already been adopted prohibiting slavery, let it be the resolution submitted to the House to prevent them from coming under bonds of apprenticeship.  There is no fear that they will come in any other way, or that they will come at all, unless brought by their masters.  I think that resolution covers the whole ground.  We have nothing else to guard against.  I know that negroes have been induced to run away from the Southern States and seek refuge in Canada, where they obtained their freedom.  But what has that to do with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>It shall be the duty of the Legislature, as soon as may be, to pass such laws as may be necessary to prevent negroes and mulattoes from coming to and settling in the State of California, and shall declare null and void every indenture conditioned for the manumission, or freedom, of such negro or mulatte, or in consideration of any service to be rendered in California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR considered the amendment out of order, as a substitute for the two propositions before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART proposed that it should be offered as a substitute for Mr. McDougal's amendment.  If adopted, the original proposition would then as a matter of course be stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I am very much in favor of the exclusion of free negroes from this country; but at present I would only suggest to the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. McCarver,) whose resolution, or that of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Steuart,) I prefer to the amendment, (Mr. McDougal's,) that the wording should be somewaht in this wise: These objectionable individuals shall not be allowed to enter the State of California under such penalties as the Legislature may hereafter impose.  My object would be to prevent the coming in of any, either those who have always been free or those who have always been slaves.  I think the House will see that there is a difference in the effect that would be produced.  It would be, perhaps, going too far to provide the penalty in the Constitution.  But by your Constitution inhibit them from coming in, and leave the penalty to the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  It has been the pleasure of gentlemen to place a good deal of weight upon precedents in this matter.  I know of no authority, sir, which I hold above that of the people.  I have received special instructions from at least more than half of the voters in my district on this subject.  It is the very best authority I can have; I know of no other entitled to so much consideration as that of the people themselves.  Whatever might be my individual feelings, having been specially instructed by my constituents, I conceive that I have no right to place my own personal wishes in opposition to theirs.  We should prevent the difficulty now.  It is a duty which we owe to the people; it is a duty we owe to our fellow citizens in the States, who are about to send out negroes.  We should not wait till the country becomes full of a population that we have no desire should remain here.  I would rather keep three men, inimical to my interests, out of doors, than one inside.  The gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Steuart) tells you that his friends in Maryland ask his advice as to whether they can bring their negroes here, and what will be the probable effect.  What is his duty, if we omit a provision of this kind in the Constitution?  To write to his friends, and tell them that they can have this privilege--that there is no law against it; that they can bring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I regard the acts of this body as abstract in their character.  We are merely called upon to fix the land-marks of the future legislation of California.  In regard to the suggestion of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts,) I presume, sir, that the power given or the power denied to the Legislature to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>"The citizens of each State shall be entitled to all the privileges and immunities of citizens in the several States."</P>
196.sgm:<P>I contend, sir, that it is an immunity and privilege of a citizen of one State to remove from that State to another--to remove also his goods and chattles and effects; and no law that we can pass can prevent him from doing it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  Are free negroes citizens of the States?</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS asked what was the question before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that it was on the amendment of Mr. Steuart.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I did not think the question would have been sprung so soon upon the House.  It seems to me, sir, that it has been decided by the unanimous vote of this Convention that no slavery shall exist in the State of California.  A portion of the amendment under consideration, (Mr. Steuart's,) which by-the-by I thought he had withdrawn, declares what?  It most directly and positively annuls a section introduced and passed unanimously in the bill of rights; it declares that the Legislature shall pass laws as soon as possible, preventing the emancipation of any slaves introduced into the territory of California.  As I understand it, the slaves of the gentleman's friends in Maryland, of whom he has spoken, can be brought here and introduced under that provision, but they cannot be manumitted within our limits.  It protects these slaveholders; it gives them the right to hold their slaves in defiance of the section which this House has so unanimously adopted in the bill of rights.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I understand the mover of the original resolution is willing to accept my proposition.  I stated expressly in reference to this clause, to which the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Shannon) objects, that it is merely designed to cover the case of individuals who may desire to travel with their negro servants through the State--that while it gives those who have no intention of settling here with their slaves that right, they are prohibited from setting them free here or introducing and retaining them as slaves.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I have no objection to it as an amendment.  I wish my proposition to remain before the House; but if the House think proper to accept the amendment in preference to mine, I shall be satisfied.  I did not withdraw my original resolution, nor do I now withdraw it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I wish to know how this matter stands.  I desire that the effect of the amendment proposed by the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Steuart,) should be distinctly understood.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  Before this question is decided, I wish to correct one statement made on this floor.  I desire that there shall not go forth a wrong impression from the district of San Jose.  Some gentleman, not representing that district, has taken occasion here to state that he is instructed, or in other words requested, by the people of San Jose, to advocate the adoption of this section, or a section involving these principles.  Sir, I beg leave to state that such is not the wish of the people of San Jose.  I profess to know something of the voice of that district.  There were, perhaps, individuals in the district who wished to have such a provision incorporated in the Constitution, but they do not wish it now, or at least the number is very small.  I speak knowingly when I say a large portion of that district do not desire such a provision.  I believe there are none but a portion of the population from the States.  The native inhabitants of the country do not desire it.  I do not wish to be misrepresented here, or to have an impression go forth that I am misrepresenting the will of the people of San Jose.  I rise, therefore, to correct that impression.  I would make one remark more.  If this is to be put upon the statutes, I would suggest to the gentleman the propriety of forbidding the slaveholders from bringing their negroes here, rather than the negroes from coming themselves.  The resolution before the House is directed against the negro, who is utterly helpless, and who is brought here by the slaveholder.  If such a provision is to be incorporated in the Constitution, it would better please me, and seem more appropriate, to direct the prohibition against the slaveholder.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE.  I beg leave to detain the House a few minutes.  I am a delegate from the district of San Jose, and I beg leave to differ (honestly, I hope) from my colleague on this subject.  We have no doubt received our vote from the same <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Steuart's amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being next on Mr. McDougal's amendment, it was also rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on Mr. McCarver's proposition, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then adjourned to 12 o'clock to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The convention was called to order by the President, pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Prayer by Rev. Senor Antonio Ramirez.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN stated that there was not a quorum present, and moved that the Convention adjourn, and that the fact that a quorum was not present be entered upon the journal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN subsequently modified his motion so as to provide merely that the Convention will take a recess, until 7 o'clock P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being taken thereon, it was decided in the affirmative--yeas 9, nays 9--the President giving the casting vote in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>And the Convention took a recess accordingly.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 7 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  The journal of yesterday was read, amended, and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN gave notice of a motion to amend the rules.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES gave notice of a motion to amend the rules.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY, from the Committee on Finance, to whom was referred back so much of the report of said Committee as relates to the communications of Governor Riley on the ways and means of obtaining the funds for paying the expenses of the Convention, and also to report on the proposition of Mr. J. Ross Browne, to furnish printed copies of his report, made a report in writing, stating the form <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT submitted the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL moved to amend the same by striking out the words "and at 8 o'clock in the evening," and the motion was decided in the affirmative, 19 to 16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BROWN moved further to amend, by striking out "10," and inserting "9."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Whereupon, Mr. TEFFT on leave, withdrew his motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, from the Committee appointed to prepare a plan or portion of a plan of a State Constitution, made a further report in writing, being Article VI, on the "Judicial Department," and Article VIII, on "Public Instruction;" which was read, and on motion, referred to the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. COBARRUVIAS submitted the following, which was agreed to:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK gave notice that he would in due time, present a minority report on the "Judicial Department," from the Committee appointed to prepare a plan or portion of a plan of a State Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT from the Committee appointed to ascertain and report to this House who are or shall be the delegates from San Diego, made a report in writing, sustaining the previous action of the House, which was read.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE moved to lay the report on the table, and the motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE submitted the following, which the President decided to be out of order:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN submitted the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the adoption of the resolution, it was decided in the affirmative, and Mr. Richardson took a seat on the floor of the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN stated that Mr. Richardson desired to be heard by counsel, and had requested that the further consideration of the report might be postponed until to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL moved that Mr. Richardson be permitted to have access to the report and to the papers in the hands of the Committee, and that he be required to present in writing any communication which he may desire to make.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. JONES, the further consideration of the report was postponed and made the special order for to-morrow at 10 o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. JONES, the Convention resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, (Mr. LIPPETT in the Chair,) on the 4th article, being the Executive Department of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the 3d article being the Legislative Department of the Constitution, was laid aside to be reported to the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first section of the report was adopted without debate, viz:</P>
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196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The supreme executive power of this State shall be vested in a chief magistrate, who shall be styled the Governor of the State of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 2d section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The Governor shall be elected by the qualified electors at the time and place of voting for members of the Assembly, and shall hold his office two years from the time of his installation and until his successor shall be qualified.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT wished to offer an amendment to this section--to strike out all after the word "office," and before the word "and," and insert "for two years from the first day of January, next ensuing his election."  He apprehended it was the object of the Committee that there should be a concurrence between the election of Governor and the assembling of the Legislature; but he found upon referring back to the Legislative Department, that this would not be the case as the section stands.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The second section of article III, says:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The sessions of the Legislature shall be annual and shall commence on the first Monday in January next ensuing the election of its members, unless the Governor of the State shall in the interim convene the Legislature by proclamation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In section 4th of the present report, it is provided that--</P>
196.sgm:<P>The returns of every election for Governor shall be sealed up and transmitted to the seat of Government, directed to the Speaker of the Assembly, who shall, during the first week of the session, open and publish them in the presence of both Houses of the Legislature, &amp;c.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In that case, of course, the Governor could not take his seat or act as Governor until after the assembling of the Legislature.  He (Mr. Gilbert) would therefore give notice of a motion to amend the second section of the report by inserting instead of the first Monday, the second Monday in January, and to amend the fourth section of the report under consideration, by striking out the whole section and inserting the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The returns of every election for Governor and other State officers shall be sealed up and transmitted as soon as practicable thereafter, to the seat of Government, directed to the Secretary of State, who shall, on or before the fifteenth day of December next ensuing, publish the same in one or more public newspapers.  The person having the highest number of votes for Governor or other office, respectively, as the case may be, shall be declared duly elected; but in case any two or more persons have an equal and the highest number of votes for Governor or other office, respectively, the Legislature shall choose by ballot at its first session thereafter, one of said persons so having an equal and the highest number of votes for Governor or other office, respectively, as the case may be.</P>
196.sgm:<P>By the adoption of these amendments, the Legislature will assemble on the 2d Mondary of January, which will be in no case sooner than the 8th day of the month.  The gubernatorial election will have been decided by the Secretary of State on the 15th of December, and the Governor will have an opportunity of preparing his messsage for the Legislature by the first of January.  He thought it necessary in that view of the case, that these last amendments should be made.  As the section stands, it would make it incumbent on the retiring Governor to send in a message at the opening of the Legislature.  Such, he apprehended, was not the wish of the people or of the House.  Coming into office, the new Governor should have the privilege of laying down the principles that are to govern him during his term of office, and at the same time, a new Legislature may come in of the same political views, and it is desirable that there should be unity of action between the Executive and Legislative Departments of the Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that if that amendment was to be adopted, the gentleman, (Mr. Gilbert,) had better report an entire new article on the subject, because the whole system depends upon each part, and goes through the report.  It is sustained by the experience of many of the States.  In case of a contested election of Governor under this proposition, how is the decision to be made, or by what power?  It is decided here by the Legislature.  If he is to be sworn before the Legislature meets, his election cannot afterwards be contested.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT remarked, that in case of a tie, he should expect the question to remain till the Legislature should act upon it.  If the Legislature could not decide it, it would of course go back to the people.  He was not aware of the course pursued in any of the States in reference to this matter, except the State of New York, which has a board of canvassers, consisting of the officers of the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I congratulate myself that I have arrived at a point for once, when I can give my full assent to the report of the Committee; and I only regret that I cannot at the same time sanction the practice of New York.  I hope it will not be the will of the House to approve of the doctrines proposed by the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gilbert.)  It is to my mind a most important point.  As I understand it, the difference between the two questions is this: To whom shall the power of deciding these elections be left, whether to the Legislature or to a subordinate executive officer of this Government?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  The gentleman mistakes entirely.  I will read the substitute which I propose for the 4th section.  (See amendment to section 4.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Just exactly as I supposed it to be.  Who has the highest number of votes.  That is the question, and that great and important question is to be settled by your Secretary of State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  It is to be settled by the official returns.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  The Secretary of State is to decide who has received the highest number of votes, and if the Legislature is to act at all, it is only to register the decree of the Secretary of State.  He is to decide upon the legality of the returns.  I consider that to be a question of very great importance.  It is scarcely necessary to multiply words on the subject.  I think when my friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Gilbert) sees that such a question will necessarily have to be decided by such an officer, that he will withdraw the amendment.   At any rate, I wish to impress upon the House the effect of this amendment.  The question of the legality of the returns must of necessity, under this resolution, be decided, and that without appeal, by an officer who, I presume, it is not contemplated should hold such a position as to entitle him to this power.  He is called upon to decide not only upon the legality of the election, but upon the legality of the returns.  We have known questions of the most important character to arise in the United States on this subject.  In the celebrated New Jersey case, it was one of the most important questions presented before the House of Representatives as to what were the legal returns.  It was a question that agitated Congress and the country for weeks, and produced a most extraordinary and exciting debate in the House.  And yet this question, which the House of Representatives could hardly decide, the gentleman proposes to leave to an executive officer!</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  Of course the question upon this amendment has no necessary relation to the others that I have offered.  If it be adopted or not, it does not materially change the report.  It is a mere question of words in this section.  But in so far as relates to the remarks of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts) I must say I have arrived at an entirely different conclusion.  It is very possible that the Secretary of State might be a very bad man; but I cannot think there is any danger of his making false returns.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I do not fear that the Secretary of State would be a worse man than any other.  I am afraid of all men.  I do not say he would make a false return; but I fear to trust him with the decisions of the legality of such an important question as the election returns of the Governor--one of such vital importance to the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I am willing to leave it to the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Gilbert's amendment to the second section, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the adoption of section 2d,</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said: I must call attention to one point that did not strike me in Committee, and that is, that a difficulty may arise as to the succession in office.  Suppose a question should occur in regard to the votes, and a month, to the 1st of February, should be occupied in coming to a decision upon it.  The Governor holds on to that time.  The time of the installation of the new Governor may thus pass beyond the time of the meeting of the Legislature, and that might go on for several years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  The Legislature will settle all matters of that kind.  It is a duty that is incumbent upon it.  I do not see how we can remedy the difficulty unless the system be entirely changed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON offered the following amendment: to strike out all from the word "and" to the word "and," and insert in its place, "and shall hold his office two years from the first day of January following his election, and until his successor shall be qualified."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I rise to a question of order; if that is not substantially the same as the amendment which I offered, and which has just been rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I call the attention of the gentleman to the fact that the last part of the amendment is different from that offered by the gentleman from San Francisco.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided that the amendment did not differ substantially from the amendment just acted upon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the 2d section as reported, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the 3d section,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT moved the following as an additional section, to come in between sections two and three of the report:</P>
196.sgm:<P>A Governor, after having served two consecutive terms, shall be, and is hereby, declared ineligible for a third.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  Coming back again to the old ground; throwing restrictions around your Legislature and people that you have no right to impose upon them.  Is this Convention any wiser than the future Legislatures to assemble here, or are the people any wiser now than they will be years hence.  I desire to see no restriction, that we can possibly avoid, thrown around the Legislature; and I desire still more to see no restriction thrown by this Constitution over the people.  I desire to see them left as unhampered as we can possibly leave them.  It is now proposed that we shall declare that whether they choose or not to elect any man they see fit to the office af Governor, they cannot do it, because this Constitution prohibits it.  I regard it as a most improper restriction.  I certainly cannot vote for it, nor can I vote in favor of the limitation in the third section of the report, requiring the candidate to be twenty-five years in order to be eligible to the office of Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I was very much in hopes this section would pass without debate.  I think one of the great principles of a republican government is rotation in office.  As to hampering the people with restrictions, the only restriction here is in regard to succession.  The same person may be elected a dozen times, if he lives long enough.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I can see no necessity for this provision.  There is an obvious necessity in the case of some offices for such restriction--that of Sheriff, for instance--a person who is supposed to have by virtue of his office an immense deal of influence throughout the country; and who has large sums of money in his possession.  If he should be eligible a second term, he might use his influence, or the money in his hands, for the purpose of procuring his re-election.  The people will settle this matter about the Governor.  If they want a certain man to continue as Governor, they will have him; if not they will reject him.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  He may come in for a life time, under this provision, but not in successive terms.  There is no other restriction but that of successive terms.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the proposed section was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The third section of the report being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  No person shall be eligible to the office of Governor, (except at the first election,) who has not been a citizen of the United States and a resident of this State two years next preceding the election, and attained the age of twenty five years at the time of said election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL moved to amend so as to make the section read "ten years a citizen of the United States or of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I trust, sir, that this amendment will not be adopted; for it certainly does appear to me to operate hard upon portions of the people of California.  There are persons in this territory whom I consider justly entitled to be elected to the highest offices within the gift of the people, which this amendment would exclude.  I mean the native Californians, whom I consider equally as well entitled to hold office as the American population.  If it can be so modified as to include only those who become naturalized under the naturalization laws, I have no objection to the amendment; but when I see a proposition brought forward that will cut off the native-born citizens of California, I hope it will not be the pleasure of the Convention to adopt it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I have the same objections.  This amendment will not only cut off all the native Californians, but all those persons not residents of the United States who were here residing in this country before California became a part of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  At the time I offered this amendment, I did not reflect for a moment upon the objections that the gentlemen have urged against it.  I see that their objections are good and valid.  In casting my eye over the section, I thought only of the necessity of requiring that none but a citizen of the United States should be eligible to the office of Governor.  I will therefore amend my motion so as to read, "citizens of the United States, or of California, for the last ten years."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I am afraid the gentleman is running from one extreme to the other.  He will shut us all off if we have to be citizens of California ten years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL explained that it was "of the United States or California."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I consider the resolution still objectionable.  There may be in California English or Scotch people, who have not been residents ten years.  It would deprive them of all right to the office of Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I still find the propositon objectionable, for the same reason that I did at first.  It is well known that there are many citizens in California, who were citizens of Mexico, who have not been in this country ten years.  I think there are some upon this floor, born in Mexico, who were Mexican citizens, but who have not lived in this country quite ten years.  I am certain there are many worthy citizens in this territory who come under this head.  Emigrating here when this country was their own, they surely ought to be entitled to every right and privilege enjoyed by all who have been here the same length of time.  I consider therefore that the amendment still operates unjustly towards a portion of the citizens of California, and I shall vote against it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I wish to put a case to my colleague from Sacramento, (Mr. McDougal.)  I should dislike very much to have any of the Sacramento delegation rendered ineligible to the office of Governor.  Now, the gentleman's friend and my friend, (Captain Sutter,) if we choose to nominate him as a candidate for that position, would come directly under this clause, and be rendered ineligible.  He has not been a citizen of the United States, I believe, ten years; neither has he been a citizen of California quite ten years.  Under the treaty he became a citizen of California; but not being a citizen either of the United States or of California ten years, he is excluded by this section.  If there is any thing to get Captain Sutter out of this dilemma, there are still others who at home are eligible to the office of Governor, who by coming here are rendered ineligible.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I certainly think gentlemen take a wrong view of this amendment.  It strikes me that each gentleman thinks himself specially referred to.  In answer to the case put by my colleague, in relation to Captain Sutter, I can state that he is not cut off by this resolution.  He has been a citizen of California over ten years, and of the United States previously six years.  I offer this amendment making it requisite for the incumbent--the Chief Magistrate of the State--to reside ten years in the United States or California, from the fact that it requires at least that residence to understand our institutions and the principles of our government.  No foreigner can come in here and become thoroughly Americanized under ten years.  I think it should be a constitutional requirement that he should be here at least that period before he is eligible to so high and resonsible a position.  If there is any objection to requiring him to be a resident ten years, there is the same objection to requiring him to be a resident of this State previous to the election.  Both stand upon precisely the same footing; and it was in that view of the case I offered the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT.  If I recollect right, it appears to me that at an early day in the session, it was decided that persons might be citizens either of Mexico or of the United States, without necessarily having the privilege of voting in this State.  I know that such is the case; but lest there may be some doubt in the House relative to the truth of my position, I will read an extract from the treaty of peace between the United States and Mexico which establishes the fact:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"The Mexicans who, in the territories aforesaid, shall not preserve the character of citizens of the Mexican republic, conformably with what is stipulated in the preceding article, shall be incorporated into the Union of the United States, and be admited at the proper time, (to be judged of by the Congress of the United States,) to the enjoyment of all the rights of citizens of the United States, according to the principles of the Constitution; and in the meantime shall be maintained and protected in the free enjoyment of their liberty and property, and secured in the free exercise of their religion, without restriction."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now it is admitted, I believe, that all negroes who came into California previous to the treaty, or lived in California at the time of its adoption, were considered in the light of Mexican citizens, but not having the privilege of voting.  If such is the fact, all of the African race living in California at that time would be included as citizens, and would of course be entitled to aspire to the position of Governor.  I propose therefore that we substitute in place of "citizen of the United States or of California," "shall be a qualified elector of the State of California."</P>
196.sgm:<P>MR. BOTTS.  I am opposed to the amendment of the gentleman, (Mr. McDougal.)  I have not that prejudice against foreigners which seems to inspire some of the members of this House.  I certainly desire that the individual who is to administer this Government shall understand the character and nature of our institutions; but I deny the fact that ten years' residence is necessary to acquire that knowledge.  These principles are based upon truths that are not confined to the United States; they are known throughout the world.  Wherever civilized man exists, the nature and character and celebrity of those institutions are well understood.  It is not a fact that persons on the other side of the Atlantic know nothing about our institutions; they are well known, sir, well understood.  In my opinion, that celebrated French writer, De Tocqueville, has given the most satisfactory evidence that he understood them perhaps as well as nine-tenths of our own countrymen.  That these great principles are not only known and preached but practiced, by that class of individuals whom this resolution would exclude, is proved by the fact that they leave their native land--that they sunder all those ties of kindred--give up all that love of country which is so natural to the heart of man, to come to our shores--thereby evincing their high appreciation of our institutions.  They present, if any thing, stronger claims to understand and appreciate them than any which we have had it in our power to give; and it may be, that that just such an individual as this resolution would have a tendency to exclude, would command the votes of seven-eights of the people to that office.  Why then adopt a provision that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT read his proposed amendment, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No person shall be eligible to the office of Governor (except at the first election) who has not the qualifications of an elector, and been a resident of this State two years next preceding the election, and attained the age of twenty-five years at the time of said election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. McDougal's amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved to strike out all after the word election, being the words "and attained the age of twenty-five years at the time of said election."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 3d section was then adopted without amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 4th section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  The returns of every election for Governor shall be sealed up and transmitted to the seat of Government, directed to the Speaker of the Assembly, who shall, during the first week of the sessesion, open and publish them in the presence of both Houses of the Legislature.  The person having the highest number of votes shall be Governor.  But in case any two or more have an equal and the highest number of votes, the Legislature shall, by joint ballot, choose one of said persons so having an equal and the highest number of votes for Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT said: If now in order, I would move the amendment which I have already referred to, and which I will now explain to the House.  I would state that if the section be adopted as it stands in the report, the Legislature will commence on the first Monday in January, and the returns of the election of Governor will have to go before the Legislature; consequently there will be no Governor until the Speaker of the Assembly shall have declared who is Governor.  There will be an interregnum between the meeting of the Legislature and the decision of the election.  My substitute is designed to obviate this difficulty; that the going out of office of the Governor and the assembling of the Legislature shall be consistent.  I deemed some provision of the kind absolutely necessary.  I am not tenacious that the Secretary of State should be the canvassing officer of the election; there may be a board consisting of all the State officers; but it is necessary that the Governor should go into office on the first day of January.  He would then have eight days to prepare himself for the duties of his office, and to render to the Legislature a proper report or message; under the proposed state of things the Legislature assembles on the 1st day of January, and you have the old Governor in office.  He delivers a message to the Legislature, whereas, I think the new Governor should have that privilege, and not be obliged to sit out a part of that Legislature without the right to present to it any exposition of his views.  You might make a canvassing board consisting of the Attorney General, Surveyor General, Comptroller, or other State officers, if the remarks of the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) have frightened the House.  You will find it you refer further to the report, that these officers are, in the first instance, to be elected by the Legislature, and thereafter by the people.  I now move that section 4th be stricken out, and the following be substituted:</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  The returns of every election for Governor and other State officers shall be sealed up and transmitted as soon as practicable thereafter, to the seat of Government, directed to the Secretary of State, who shall, on or before the fifteenth day of December next ensuing, publish the same in one or more public newspapers.  The person having the highest number of votes for Governor or other office, respectively, as the case may be, shall be declared duly elected; but in case any two or more persons have an equal and the highest number of votes for Governor or other office, respectively, the Legislature shall choose by joint ballot, at its first session thereafter, one of said persons so having an equal and the highest number of votes for Governor or other office, respectively, as the case may be.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY.  I hope this amendment will prevail, as it seems to be of the highest importance that the Governor and the Legislature should go into office at the same time.  Almost always the same policy is agreed to by the Governor and the Legislature, and it is desirable there should be a co-relative agreement in the commencement of their operations.  In addition to the persons named as canvassing officers, perhaps it would be well to have the Supreme Chief Justices added, or have them alone, without the State officers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I believe that in the State of New York all the State officers constitute the board.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I hope this amendment will not be adopted.  My colleague seems to think it of great importance that the new Governor should make a speech.  There is no difficulty about that as the matter stands.  The retiring Governor presents his valedictory--the new Governor his inaugural address.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  After hearing the remarks of my friend from San Francisco on the right, (Mr. Gilbert,) I am decidedly in favor of the proposed substitute.  I think the Governor and other State officers should be aware of the election previous to the hour of their installation.  It seems proper that any officer who has received the vote of the people of the State should know, previous to his installation, whether he is elected or not; and that we should not require officers to come to the seat of Government to inquire whether he has received a majority of the votes, and wait for the Legislature to tell him.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I would suggest to my friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Gilbert,) the propriety of an addition to his amendment.  There is no provision, either in the amendment or in the original report, designating who shall seal up and transmit these election returns to the seat of government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  That will be provided by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I will remark that that subject will be reported upon hereafter by the Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I would simply inquire if it be designed in the resolution that this officer--the Secretary of State--is merely to count the votes as they are sent in, and declare the result, or is a discretionary power left with him to decide whether they are legal or illegal?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  The returns that come to him will come from the duly elected canvassers in the several districts, and of course he will take no returns unless they come under that authority.  The Speaker of the Assembly must act upon the same returns; the Assembly and Legislature must act upon the same returns; they cannot act upon any others.  If these returns are false the Legislature will make a mistake, and be placed just in the same position as the Secretary of State.  The gentleman has conjured up a danger that has no existence in reality.  As a further answer to the objections of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts,) I would remind him that the substitute provides that the returns shall be published fifteen days before the meeting of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed substitute and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The fourth section, as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the fifth section, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>5.  The Governor shall be commander-in-chief of the militia, the army, and navy of this State."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL moved to amend by adding at the end of this section, "except when they shall be called into service by the United States."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER thought the gentleman's amendment was needless.  Who would be commander-in-chief if the Governor was not?  The Governor should be commander-in-chief.  The Government of the United States, in case of necessity, makes a call upon him, and he furnishes the required forces.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON read from the second article, section 2d, of the Constitution of the United States, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"The President shall be commander-in-chief of the army and navy of the United States, and of the militia of the several States, when called into the actual service of the United States," &amp;c.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL could see no necessity then for the section, unless it contained the exception which he had proposed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON remarked that it was usual to have such an article in the Constitutions of the States, and he considered the amendment entirely out of place.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The fifth section was then adopted, without amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, of the report, were then adopted without debate, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>6.  He shall transact all executive business with the officers of Government, civil and military, and may require information in writing from the officers of the executive department upon any subject relating to the duties of their respective offices.</P>
196.sgm:<P>7.  He shall see that the laws are faithfully executed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>8.  When any office shall from any cause become vacant, and no mode is provided by the Constitution and laws for filling such vacancy, the Governor shall have power to fill such vacancy, by granting a commission which shall expire at the end of the next session of the Legislature, or at the next election by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>9.  He may, on extraordinary occasions, convene the Legislature by proclamation, and shall state to both Houses, when assembled, the purposes for which they shall have been convened.</P>
196.sgm:<P>10.  He shall communicate by message to the Legislature, at every session, the condition of the State, and recommend such matters as he shall deem expedient.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the 11th section, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>11.  In case of a disagreement between the two Houses with respect to the time of adjournment, the Governor shall have power to adjourn the Legislature to such time as he may think proper, provided it be not beyond the time fixed for the meeting of the next Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS moved to strike it out.  The motion was decided in the negative, and the section was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17, of the report, were then adopted without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>12.  No person shall, while holding any office under the United States or this State, exercise the office of Governor, except as hereinafter expressly provided.</P>
196.sgm:<P>13.  The Governor shall have the power to grant reprieves, commutations, and pardons, after conviction, for all offences except treason, and cases of impeachment, upon such conditions, and with such restrictions and limitations as he may think proper, subject to such regulations as may be provided by law relative to the manner of applying for pardons.  Upon conviction for treason, he shall have power to suspend the execution of the sentence until the case shall be reported to the Legislature at its next meeting, when the Legislature shall either pardon or commute the sentence, direct the execution of the sentence, or grant a further reprieve.</P>
196.sgm:<P>He shall communicate to the Legislature at the beginning of every session, every case of reprieve, commutation, or pardon granted, stating the name of the convict, the crime of which he was convicted, the sentence, and its date, and the date of the commutation, pardon and reprieve.</P>
196.sgm:<P>14.  There shall be a seal of this State, which shall be kept by the Governor, and used by him officially, and shall be called the great seal of the State of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>15.  All grants and commissions shall be in the name and by the authority of the people of the State of California, sealed with the great seal of the State, signed by the Governor, and countersigned by the Secretary of State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>16.  A Lieutenant Governor shall be elected at the same time and places and in the same manner as the Governor; and his term of office and his qualifications of eligibility, shall also be the same.  He shall be the President of the Senate, but shall only have a casting vote therein.  If during a vacancy in the office of Governor, the Lieutenant Governor shall be impeached, displaced, resign, die, or become incapable of performing the duties of his office, or be absent from the State, the President of the Senate shall act as Governor until the vacancy be filled, or the disability shall cease.</P>
196.sgm:<P>17.  In case of the impeachment of the Governor or his removal from office, death, inability to discharge the powers and duties of the said office, resignation or absence from the State, the powers and duties of the office shall devolve upon the Lieutenant Governor for the residue of the term, or until the disability shall cease.  But when the Governor shall, with the consent of the Legislature, be out of the State in time of war at the head of any military force thereof, he shall continue Commander-in-chief of all the military force of the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 18th section of the report being under consideration, as follows:</P>
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196.sgm:<P>18.  A Secretary of State, a Comptroller, a Treasurer, an Attorney General, and Surveyor General, shall be chosen in the manner provided in this Constitution, and the term of office and eligibility of each shall be the same as are prescribed for the Governor and Lieutenant Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT moved to strike out the words "a Comptroller."  He thought it absolutely necessary that we should have as few State officers as possible.  He could see necessity for having a Comptroller.  Such an officer was not required here where our public improvements and the amount of public funds would be so limited for several years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD hoped the motion would not prevail.  The Comptroller is auditor of public accounts, and is a very important officer in that light.  As for public improvements, he trusted we would have some before long.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER suggested that the Secretary of State be required to perform the duties of Comptroller.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT said that the business of the Comptroller was simply to audit the accounts of the State Treasurer.  In some States there is a Committee of the Legislature to audit the accounts of the Treasurer.  In the State of New York a Comptroller is absolutely necessary.  The Treasurer in that State is a mere Cashier.  The Comptroller is the principal officer.  But in California for many years we shall not need an office of this kind.  He hoped the House would strike it out and provide, if necessary, for a board of officers of both Houses of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER thought this matter should be left to the Legislature.  It is usual in legislative bodies in the States to have frequent settlements with the auditor of public accounts, by a committee appointed for that purpose.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS hoped the motion would not prevail.  He was in favor of retaining this officer, not only because the Constitution of New York has a Comptroller in it, but because his duties are extremely important.  In some of the States they are so important as to be divided between two--a first and second Comptroller.  A most wholesome and useful check is created by the union of the two officers; the one is a check upon the other.  It is absolutely necessary to have some officer to keep a check upon the public accounts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was taken on Mr. Gilbert's motion to strike out the words "a Comptroller," and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 18th section was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 19th section being under consideration, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>19.  The Secretary of State shall be appointed by the Governor, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate.  He shall keep a fair record of the official acts of the legislative and executive departments of the Government, and shall, when required, lay the same, and all matters relative thereto, before either branch of the Legislature, and shall perform such other duties as shall be assigned him by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT moved to strike out all of the first sentence after the word "be," and insert thereof the words "elected by the people."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK suggested that if this amendment was adopted, another should be passed also, providing that the Secretary of State shall not be required to keep the records of the Governor, if he is not to be a confidential officer, appointed under his authority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 19th section, as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 20th and 21st sections of the report were adopted, without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>20.  The comptroller, treasurer, attorney general, and surveyor general, shall be chosen by joint-ballot of the two Houses of the Legislature, at their first session under this Constitution; and thereafter shall be elected, at the same time and places, and in the same manner as the governor andl ieutenant governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>21.  The governor, lieutenant governor, secretary of state, comptroller, treasurer, attorney general, and surveyor general shall each, at stated times during their continuance in office, receive for their services a compensation which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they shall have been elected, but neither of these officers shall receive for his own use any fees for the performance of his official duties.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>'The 22d section of the report being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>22.  The governor may suspend from office the secretary of state, comptroller, treasurer, surveyor general, and attorney general during the recess of the Legislature, until thirty days after the commencement of the next session of the Legislature, whenever it shall appear to him that such officer has in any particular violated his duty, and he shall appoint a competent person to discharge the duties of the office during such suspension, and within ten days after the meeting of the Legislature, or after such suspension; if made during the session, the governor shall lay before that body his reasons for such suspension, and the Legislature shall determine by joint ballot whether the officer so suspended shall be removed or restored to office.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said he thought he would vote for everything brought up to night; but he could not vote for this.  It was putting into the hands of the Governor most extraordinary powers.  Whilst he was not prepared to debate, he was certainly prepared to vote against it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the 22d section was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee then rose, reported the 3d and 4th articles to the House, with sundry amendments, and had leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House adjourned to 10 o'clock A.M. to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by Rev. S. H. Wiley.  Journal of yesterday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN remarked that it was a matter of importance to the reporter that this proposition should be acted upon without further delay.  He regarded it as extremely important that a correct official record of the proceedings of this Convention should be published, both in English and Spanish.  He thought the proposition reasonable enough; and, as it seemed to be the only feasible mode of accomplishing the object, he moved the adoption of the resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY stated that the Committee had taken a great deal of painst to ascertain whether this sum was as low as it could possibly be done for, and they were clearly of the opinion that the proposition was more favorable than any other that had been presented.  Almost the entire expense of printing these Spanish copies is additional; or, in other words, after printing the English edition, it would cost the same to have it translated into Spanish and an edition of two hundred and fifty copies printed in that language.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT called for the reading of Mr. Browne's proposition, which was ordered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER would vote for the adoption of the resolution; but, at the same time, he would greatly prefer that each member should have one copy of the Report instead of the number specified.  It would not look so much like voting themselves books at the people's expense.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS had no great desire to see the debates of this Convention reported at all.  He conceived that questions of the greatest magnitude had been discussed under circumstances of hurry and haste; and that the debates, if correctly reported, would leave the members of the Convention in a very unenviable attitude before the country.  He had no sort of fancy for having the debates laid before the country.  He did not think, from the difficulties experienced by every gentleman who had spoken, owing to the want of books for reference, time for preparation, and a systematic order of things, that they were calculated to do credit to California.  But it was not to that point he wished to call the attention of the House.  If this Convention adopted the resolution, the Reporter was, from that moment, entitled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY explained that the Reporter would be paid in the same manner as other officers of the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS opposed the appropriation of the civil fund for paying the expenses of the Convention, on the ground that neither General Riley nor the President of the United States, had a right to dispose of it, and that it could not be legally so appropriated without special act of Congress.  (See debate on this subject, page 95.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>After further discussion, the question recurring on the adoption of Mr. Gwin's resolution, Mr. GILBERT called for the yeas and nays, which were ordered, and resulted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS--Messrs.  Aram, Brown, Crosby, De la Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Gwin Hoppe, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippitt, Lippincott, Moore, McCarver, Pedrorena Rodriguez, Reid, Snyder, Shannon, Stearns, Steuart, Tefft, Vallejo, Walker, President--28.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS--Messrs.  Botts, Dent, Ellis, Gilbert, Hill, McDougal, Norton, Sherwood, Wozencraft--9.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the Committee proceeded to the consideration of the special order, being the report of the Committee appointed to ascertain and report who are or shall be delegates from San Diego.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The report, on motion, was read.  Whereupon, Col. John B. Weller appeared as counsel for Mr. Richardson, and advocated at length his claim to a seat in this Convention, as a member elect from the District of San Diego.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Further discussion ensued, by Messrs.  Hill, Halleck, Tefft, Botts, Pedrorena, and Shannon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Col. Weller replied--when Mr. GWIN submitted the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The President ruled that the resolution could not be entertained, as the Convention had already decided as to the manner of casting the votes in Convention, and had also fixed the apportionment for San Diego at two members.  A reconsideration of the vote fixing the apportionment of the several districts, and declaring the manner in which the votes shall be cast in this Convention, would be necessary, before the resolution would be in order, as no resolution could be entertained in contravention of the law of the Convention.  As the Convention had already decided that the vote therein shall not be given by districts, but by the members individually, the law of the Convention cannot be disregarded until changed in due process by the action of this body.</P>
196.sgm:<P>From this decision Mr. GWIN appealed, and proceeded to state his reasons for so doing.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being--Shall the decision of the Chair stand as the judgment of the Convention, it was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN requested that the decision of the President should be reduced to writing and entered upon the journal, and the Secretary was directed by the President to take down the words, and enter them accordingly.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN also asked and obtained leave to have entered upon the journal a protest by himself against the decision of the President.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the adoption of the report, Mr. WOZENCRAFT asked to be excused from voting, but the Convention refused so to excuse him.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Messrs. HILL and PEDRORENA were excused from voting on the question of adoption.  Mr. GWIN asked the yeas and nays on the adoption of the report, and they were ordered.  The question was then decided in the affirmative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Cobarruvias, Crosby, De la Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Gilbert, Hanks, Hoppe, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippitt, Lippincott, McCarver, Norton, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Steuart, Tefft, Vallejo, Walker, Wozencraft, President--32.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS--Messrs.  Ellis, Gwin, Moore, McDougal, Ord--5.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS submitted the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. MOORE, the Convention took a recess until 7 1/2 o'clock, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>EVENING SESSION, 7 1/2 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the Convention resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Botts in the Chair, on the report of the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article VI of the report of the Committee was then adopted, without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VI.-- <HI REND="italics">Militia</HI>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The Legislature shall provide, by laws, for organizing and discipling the militia, in such manner as they shall deem expedient, not incompatible with the Constitution and laws of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  The Legislature shall provide for the efficient discipline of the officers, commissioned and non-commissioned, and musicians, and may provide by-laws for the organization and discipline of volunteer companies.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  Officers of the militia shall be elected or appointed in such manner as the Legislature shall, from time to time, direct, and shall be commissioned by the Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  The Governor shall have power to call forth the militia, to execute the laws of the State, to suppress insurrections, and repel invasions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article VII of the report of the Committee then coming up--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved to strike out the word "one," before the words "hundred thousand dollars," and insert the word "five."</P>
196.sgm:<P>By this section we prevent the Legislature from creating a debt of over one hundred thousand dollars, in the aggregate, without submitting it to a vote of the people.  He was in favor of submitting the question of creating a large debt to the people, but it may be necessary in carrying on the expenses of the Government to borrow temporarily more than that sum.  In the State of New York there is a provision of a similar nature in the Constitution, but the amount is one million instead of a hundred thousand.  In his opinion it might be necessary at some period--probably at the very first session of the Legislature, before a tax can be levied and collected, in order to keep the wheels of Government in motion--to borrow more than a hundred thousand dollars as a temporary loan.  He would make it five hundred thousand.  The expenses of this State would be larger than those of any other State, and this sum might be required.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said that the Committee were not particular in regard to the sum, but they thought it necessary to specify some definite amount.  He thought himself that the circumstances of the country required that the sum should be increased, so that the Legislature should have the power to raise such an amount as might be indispensably necessary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD stated further that it was, in the view of the Committee, deemed proper to reconsider this question, and fix the amount at a larger sum than that reported; but from some circumstance or other it was not reconsidered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN was utterly opposed to the amendment, to increase the amount of State debt to $500,000.  If we could not carry on our State Government without contracting a debt of that magnitude, we were certainly starting wrong.  This was a provision of the utmost importance.  He hoped the report of the Committee would be received, or if the amount was to be increased that it would be in a very small ratio.  He was opposed to the principle of permitting the Government to create a public debt at all, and would not go beyond the report of the Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER was of opinion that $100,000 was sufficient to pay the expenses of State Government.  Iowa went into existence prohibiting the borrowing of over a hundred thousand dollars; and he did not see why we should not do so.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS observed that the gentleman seemed to labor under the impression that, if the sum of $500,000 was inserted instead of $100,000, a debt to that extent must necessarily be created.  He conceived it was discretionary with the Legislature, and that probably no debt at all would be created.  If it was necessary to provide for obtaining money when required, it was highly important that we should so form our Constitution that the Legislature might be able to meet the contingency.  He would be willing to rely upon the good judgement of the Legislature.  It could not reasonably be presumed that the Legislature would create a debt to the full amount of the authority given it unless the public necessities demanded it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD said that it would not probably be necessary to borrow money at all after the first organization of the Government.  It would be necessary to raise some fund to put the wheels of government in motion; and to do that would certainly require over a hundred thousand dollars.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on Mr. Sherwood's amendment to insert "five hundred thousand," it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT moved to insert "three" instead of "one."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on this motion, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL moved to amend the latter part of the section so as to read "and such law shall be published in at least one newspaper in each Judicial District, if one is published therein, throughout the State, for three months next preceding the election at which it is to be submitted to the people," which was agreed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article VII, as amended, was then adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>ARTICLE VII.-- <HI REND="italics">State Debts</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall not in any manner create any debt or debts, liability or liabilities, which shall singly or in the aggregate, with any previous debts or liabilities, exceed the sum of three hundred thousand dollars, except in case of war, to repel invasion, or suppress insurrection, unless the same shall be authorized by some law for some single object, or work, to be distinctly specified therein, which law shall provide ways and means, exclusive of loans, for the payment of the interest of such debt or liability as it falls due, and also to pay and discharge the principal of such debt or liability within twenty years from the time of the contracting thereof, and shall be irrepealable until the principal and interest thereon shall be paid and discharged; but no such law shall take effect until at a general election it shall have been submitted to the people, and have received a majority of all the votes cast for and against it at such election; and all money raised by authority of such law shall be applied only to the specific object therein stated, or to the payment of the debt thereby created, and such law shall be published in at least one newspaper in each Judicial District, if one is published therein, throughout the State, for three months next preceding the election at which it is submitted to the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article IX was then taken up and passed, without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>ARTICLE IX.-- <HI REND="italics">Mode of Amending and Revising the Constitution</HI>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  Any amendment or amendments to this Constitution may be proposed in the Senate or House of Representatives; and if the same shall be agreed to by a majority of the members elected to each of the two Houses, such proposed amendments shall be entered on their journals, with the yeas and nays taken thereon, and referred to the Legislature then next to be chosen, and shall be published for three months next previous to the time of making such choice; and if in the Legislature next chosen as aforesaid such proposed amendment or amendments shall be agreed to by two-thirds of all the members elected to each House, then it shall be the duty of the Legislature to submit such proposed amendment or amendments to the people, in such manner and at such time as the Legislature shall prescribe; and if the people shall approve and ratify such amendments, by a majority of the electors qualified to vote for members of the Legislature voting thereon, such amendment or amendments shall become part of the Constitution.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>2.  And if at any time two-thirds of the Senate and House of Representatives shall think it necessary to revise or change this entire Constitution, they shall recommend to the electors, at the next election for members of the Legislature, to vote for or against a Convention; and if it shall appear that a majority of the electors voting at such election have voted in favor of calling a Convention, the Legislature shall, at its next session, provide by law for calling a Convention, to be holden within six months after the passage of such law, and such Convention shall consist of members not less in number than that of both branches of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. WOZENCRAFT, the Committee then rose, reported Articles 6, 7, and 9, to the House with sundry amendments, and had leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then, on motion of Mr. McDOUGAL, resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Botts in the Chair, on the report of the Committee on the Boundary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A sufficient number of copies of the report not being prepared for the use of the members,</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee, on motion, rose and reported progress, and obtained leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to take up the bill of rights, as reported to the House, and commence its consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON thought it proper that the entire Constitution, as passed in Committee of the Whole, should be before the House, before any portion of it was taken up for final action.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK called attention to the fact that each article, as finally acted upon, must be given to the translator after a very careful revision, so that Spanish copies could be made for the use of the Spanish delegates at the same time with the English copies.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS hoped the bill of rights would not be taken up to-night.  He moved that the House adjourn till 10 o'clock to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT suggested that the bill of rights should have its first and second reading, which was merely formal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON hoped that the House would adjourn, in order to afford the Committee on the Constitution an opportunity of holding a meeting.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In Convention.  Prayer by the Rev. Padre Antonio Ramirez.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Journal of yesterday was read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The rules of the House were then amended, in pursuance of notice given by Messrs. Gwin and Jones.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK, from the Committee on the Constitution, made a minority report on the subject of the Judiciary, which was read and referred to the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. BOTTS, the Secretary was authorized to take such measures as he might deem proper to secure the papers and records of the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. McDOUGAL, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Lippitt in the Chair, on the report of the Committee on the Boundary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the adoption of the report of the Committee, which proposes the following as the boundary, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Commencing at the northeast corner of the State, at the intersection of the parallel of latitude forty-two degrees north with the parallel of longitude one hundred and sixteen degrees west, thence south upon and along that parallel of longitude to the boundary line between the United States and Mexico, established by the treaty of peace ratified by the said Governments at Queretaro on the 30th day of May, 1848, thence west upon and along the said boundary line to the Pacific ocean; thence in a northerly direction following the course of the Pacific coast to the said parallel of forty-two degrees of north latitude, extending one marine league into the sea from the southern to the northern boundary, and including all the bays, harbors, and islands adjacent to the said coast; and thence east from the said coast at latitude forty-two degrees north, upon and along that parallel of latitude to the place of beginning.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said: This question is so important that I would suggest some course of action, on the part of the Committee of the Whole, for the purpose of order and convenience in the despatch of business.  I understand that there are a variety of opinions in relation to the proper boundary of this State.  I therefore suggest that gentlemen who intend to introduce propositions on the subject present their various amendments.  Let these amendments be copied by the Clerk, and copies furnished at the earliest practicable moment for the use of the members.  I differ, myself, from the Committee that made this report, as to the line therein proposed.  I shall therefore offer an amendment; and, as I presume others will come up, I hope the course which I have suggested will be pursued.  For the present, without explaining the line which I propose as a boundary, I will simply present my amendment:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That the boundary of the State of California shall include all that tract of country from the 105th degree of longitude west from Greenwich to the Pacific coast, and from the 32d to the 42d degree of north latitude, known as the territory of California; also, the harbors, islands, and bays adjacent and along the Pacific coast; also, to extend three English miles into said Pacific ocean and along the coast thereof from the 32d to the 42d degree of latitude north; but if Congress should not grant or adopt the boundary herein set forth, then the boundary to be as follows, viz: commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d degree of north latitude, and of the 120th degree of longitude west from Greenwich, and running south on the line of said 120th degree of west longitude until it intersects the 38th degree of north latitude; thence running in a straight line in a southeasterly direction to the boundary line between the United States and Mexico as established by the treaty of May 30th, 1848, and at a point where the 116th degree of west longitude intersects said boundary line; thence running west and along said boundary line to the Pacific ocean, and extending therein three English miles; thence, running in a northeasterly direction and following the direction of the Pacific coast to the 42d degree of north latitude, to the place of beginning; also, all the islands, harbors, and bays along and adjacent to the Pacific coast.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR thought it desirable, before the House proceeded any further in this discussion, that every member should clearly understand the different eastern boundaries proposed by the report and the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>[The Chair then read the report and amendment in juxta-position.]</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I have a proposition which I wish to offer as a substitute for the whole.  I was not aware that the subject was to be brought up this morning; and I have drawn up my proposition very hastily here at my desk.  It is as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>[Here Mr. HALLECK read a proposition with a proviso, but withdrew it to allow Mr. GWIN to submit the following, which he accepted as a portion of his amendment, as it accomplished precisely the same object which he had in view.]</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN then offered the following amendment to the amendment, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The boundary of California shall be as follows: beginning at the point on the Pacific ocean south of San Diego, to be established by the Commissioners of the United States and Mexico, appointed under the treaty of 2d February, 1848, for running the boundary line between the territory of the U.S. and Mexico, and thence running in an easterly direction on the line fixed by said Commissioners as the boundary to the Territory of New Mexico; thence northerly on the boundary line between New Mexico and California, as laid down on the "Map of Oregon and Upper California from the survey of J. C. Fremont, and other authorities, drawn by Charles Preuss, under the order of the Senate of the U.S., Washington city, 1848," to the 42d degree of north latitude; thence due west, on the boundary line between Oregon and California, to the Pacific ocean; thence southerly along the coast of the Pacific ocean, including the islands and bays belonging to California, to the place of beginning.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK then submitted his proviso, which he stated was taken nearly verbatim from the Constitution of Florida:</P>
196.sgm:<P>But the Legislature shall have power by the votes of two-thirds of both Houses to accede to such propositions as may be made by the Congress of the United States, upon the admission of the State of California into the national confederacy and Union, (if they shall be deemed just and reasonable,) to limit the eastern boundaries of the State to the Sierra Nevada, and a line drawn from some point in that range to some point of the Colorado or Gila rivers, and to organize, by Congress, a Territorial Government for that portion of California east of these boundaries, or to admit it into the Union as a distinct and separate State.  And the Legislature shall make declaration of such assent by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN accepted the proviso as an amendment to his amendment.  He regarded this question of boundary as the most important that had to be settled in this Convention.  He thought that more important results proceeded from it than from any other.  He had devoted much attention to the subject of the boundary, knowing the difficulties which would arise in connexion with it.  He had maps which he had laid before citizens of California who are well versed in this matter, and they informed him that the boundary which he proposed was that recognised by the Government of Mexico, and he believed it would be recognised by the Government of the United States, and in fact had been recognised by the official documents and maps published by order of Congress.  He believed that we should in the first place fix the boundary definitely in this Constitution, so as not to leave open the question which had heretofore prevented California from having a government; but as this was a fair subject of negotiation between the two high contracting parties, and as Congress had a right to determine what our boundary should be, and might refuse to sanction the proposed boundary, then it was competent for Congress and the Legislature, under this proviso, to change it by their joint action.  Any other course he thought would give rise to a great deal of difficulty in Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>If we include territory enough for several States, it is competent for the people and the State of California to divide it hereafter.  This a privilege guarantied by the Constitution of the United States.  He looked upon it as a matter of great importance that the boundary should include the entire territory, so that there could be no question hereafter.  It was true this proposition embraced an immense unexplored region; that it brings in the Mormon settlement on the Salt Lake.  But the Mormons have already applied for a government, and if they do not desire to remain in the State of California, it is very easy for them to form a separate government.  He was informed that they were already breaking up, and would in a short time dissolve their association.  At all events, we should not jeopard our admission into the Union by omitting them.  If they desire it, they can have a government of their own.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the question would be on the amendment of Mr. McDougal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARVER.  I am decidedly of opinion that it is the duty of this House to fix some permanent line as the boundary of California.  It is the duty of the State of California and the United States, as the two high contracting parties, to fix the boundary; and I believe it is the duty of this Convention to designate some particular limits, so that the people may know where the boundary is.  There has been much collision between the Government and the new Territories that have recently been admitted into the Union; not so much because they were claiming too great an extent of territory, but because the Government wished to shape it in a particular manner.  We may find the same difficulty here.  We may find an attempt on the part of the Government, if we leave this an open question, to make two States bordering on the Pacific.  It is our duty to refuse to come into the Union as Iowa did, unless Congress accedes to the boundary which we deem <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  The proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) including the entire boundary of the territory known as California, has been read.  I have prepared here, sir, an amendment, which I shall offer at the proper time, after the present amendment and substitute have been disposed of.  The amendment which I propose to offer leaves out a great portion of the territory of California as included within the proposition of the gentleman (Mr. Gwin;) and as he has already claimed and received the favor of the House to read his amendment, I shall claim the same privilege.  My amendment is in these words:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE.  I have not made up my mind fully, Mr. Chairman, whether it will be best to include the whole of California as laid down upon this map, (Fremont's,) or to have a fixed boundary defined; but from what knowledge I have of the country, and what I have seen, I think if there is any definite boundary to be made, that that proposed by the Committee is decidedly preferable to any other yet proposed--taking the longitude of 116.  Any person who has been over the tract of country northeast knows that it is nothing but an isolated desert, until you get to the region of the Salt Lake.  The land on this side of the desert is naturally separated from that on the other side, and should be kept so.  On the western side of this boundary line, 116&deg; W. longitude, there is a great deal of desirable land before you reach the base of the Sierra Nevada.  It is supposed by many that it embraces a good deal of valuable mineral land; but if we make the Sierra Nevada the dividing ridge we have no protection from the territory beyond.  Depredations will be committed within our limits.  How will you reach the offenders by process, when all they have to do is to withdraw a short distance on the other side.  They are then out of reach.  We want some line beyond this range of mountains.  My friend from Sacramento (Mr. Shannon) stated that he desired to include the Colorado, because there might be valuable seaports there.  I think we should leave out the Colorado altogether.  The Mormons have settled there, and if they can make a good seaport of it, it will be valuable to the interior, and be of decided advantage to us also in our southern trade.  If the question comes up, unless my mind should be made up to include the whole of the territory of California, I shall vote in favor of 116&deg; west longitude as our eastern boundary line.  I believe there is no other that would suit us so well; and I hope gentlemen will take its advantages into consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I entertain very different views on this subject from most of the gentlemen who have addressed the House.  I think it is true, with my friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) that this is an exceedingly important question, and one that we should exercise due deliberation in considering.  There is but one question, in my mind, in forming this Constitution, that I would condescend to consider with any reference to the views of Congress.  It is the only one that they have a right to exercise any control over in this Constitution; and that question is contained in the clause now under consideration.  All other provisions in our Constitution affect ourselves, and ourselves only, and we have a right to shape them as we think proper; but the question of boundary affects the interests of others whom Congress holds in charge.  It is for this reason that I like so much the character of the amendment proposed a little while ago by the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck,) leaving it to Congress to reduce the boundary to certain limits, if such course be deemed advisable.  This is the only proper subject of negotiation between the people of California and the Congress of the United States.  I say, then, with respect to this eastern line, I am willing after the Spanish fashion, to leave it to those <HI REND="italics">buenos humbres</HI>
196.sgm: in Congress and our Legislature to decide.  Let us define the line; let us, upon our part, claim a line, but let us provide also that that line may be altered by those two high contracting parties.  I would not insist upon two-thirds of the Assembly; I would desire that it should be decided by a majority of the Assembly of the State of California, together with a majority of the Congress of the United States--our Assembly against their Assembly.  When these two agree, the line determined upon by them should be our eastern boundary.  There is one point upon which I entertain very different views from most of the gentlemen on this floor; and that is, that we can be accommodated or benefited in the slightest degree by having a very extensive territory in California.  This thing is better understood at home than here, and the difficulty will be in obtaining what we ought to desire--small and contracted limits.  We claim a representation in the Senate of the United States equal to that of any other State in the Union.  The question will be there, for how small a territory do you claim this power?  Do you remember, Mr. Chairman, that the little State of Delaware, because of her size, is the most powerful State in the Union?  Do you remember that her ratio of representation in the Senate of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I said it was important we should settle it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  As this is a very important question, and several amendments have been proposed this morning, and it is important that the House should understand them before they are voted upon, I propose that the subject be laid aside, and that the Secretary be directed to prepare copies of the amendments to be laid before the members, so that when the subject comes up again we may be prepared to act upon it.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I hope the motion will prevail.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I am of the gentleman's opinion that we had better not take the question this morning; but I do not see why we should yet dispose of it.  I am ignorant of the character of the country proposed to be included, and have not made up my mind definitely as to the proper boundary.  There may be gentlemen here who are prepared to throw some light on the subject.  If it appears that nobody has anything further to remark upon it, I shall be very willing that the Committee rise and report progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  My object is this.  We are to debate certain propositions which different gentlemen have made.  Before we can do so understandingly, we must have these propositions on our tables in writing, in order to comprehend them properly.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  There may be other gentlemen who would be glad to make remarks upon this subject, and throw some light upon it.  I am not prepared myself to do so.  If there are none, I concur with the gentleman.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the Committee then rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. HALLECK, the House resolved that when it adjourn it would adjourn to 10 o'clock A.M. on Monday next.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN then moved that the House now go into consideration of the amendments, adopted in Committee of the Whole, to so much of the report of the Committee on the Constitution as is styled the "Bill of Rights."</P>
196.sgm:<P>After some discussion, as to the propriety of taking up the Bill of Rights before the entire Constitution was passed through Committee of the Whole, the motion was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN, from the Committee of Ways and Means of defraying the expenses of the State Government, made a report, which, on his motion, was laid on the table to be read on Monday next.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then granted Mr. Ellis ten days' leave of absence.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In Convention.  Prayer by the Rev. Mr. Willey.  Journal of Saturday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, Chairman of the Committee on the Constitution, reported the article on miscellaneous provisions; which was read and referred to the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON, on leave, made some verbal amendments to his proposition, and introduced a proviso prohibiting Congress from dividing the State of California by running any line east and west.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN, on leave, made some verbal amendments to his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. WOZENCRAFT, Mr. Vermuele, a member elect from San Joaquin, was introduced, sworn, and admitted to his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Lippitt in the Chair, on the report of the Committee on the Boundary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After some discussion as to the order of amendments, the Chair decided that Mr. Gwin's amendment, with the proviso offered by Mr. Halleck and accepted by Mr. Gwin, was before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES said that he hoped the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck,) would explain the object of the two-third rule adopted in his proviso.  We might, through the absence of one-third of the members of the Legislature, be kept out of a State Government for years.  He could not see what object the gentleman had in view by requiring that two-thirds of the members of the Legislature accede to a proposition passed by a majority in Congress.  He was clearly in favor of a majority himself, ever since Mr. Van Buren was knocked in the head by the two-third rule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said that it was because the first portion of the proviso was taken from the Constitution of Florida, and not a word of objection was made to it by Congress.  Congress admitted the State with that provision, and he thought that was a sufficient reason.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES said it was his understanding of the matter that, if our boundary was not accepted by Congress, Congress should make a proposition to us, and we should accept it or reject it as we pleased.  He thought that the State Government should at least have its boundaries well defined; but in relation to the precedent of Florida, as far as the proposition goes, Congress had nothing to say.  If Florida chose to impose a two-third rule upon her own Legislature, it was not a subject for the consideration of Congress.  He preferred having a majority against a majority, and then <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK had no objection if the original mover of the amendment chose to accept it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN accepted the amendment; and the Secretary then, by order of the Chair, read the three propositions before the Committee, viz: the report of the Committee on the Boundary; the proposition of Mr. McDougal, and the proposition of Mr. Gwin, with Mr. Halleck's proviso.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER wished to offer an amendment to the proposition of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that it would not be in order, as there were three propositions before the Committee.  If the gentleman chose to accept the amendment, it could be introduced in that way.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said he desired to shape it so that the Legislature should not entertain any proposition from Congress, fixing a boundary line.  He thought if the boundary was left open, Congress might cut this State in two by running a line east and west--which he was decidedly opposed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK remarked that no line could come west farther than the Sierra Nevada under this proposition.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said it was his desire to fix a permanent boundary line.  He wished to amend the proposition so that neither Congress nor the Legislature could change that line.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  I desire to state my views in regard to this proposition.  At the proper time, I will offer an ordinance which is equally competent and will ensure the same general result.  If we make no boundary for California at all, the Congress of the United States will fix the boundary.  They are under particular obligations to give us all that California ever had; they will have no right to dismember this territory.  If this be the case, then we will take the entire boundary to New Mexico.  I say then, if we pass an ordinance determining that, in the formation of the new State, they shall not come east of a certain line, it will accomplish the same object proposed by the gentlemen from Monterey and San Francisco, (Mr. Halleck and Mr. Gwin.)  In the first instance, the Constitution of the United States provides that--"New States may be admitted by Congress into this Union; but no new State shall be formed or erected within the jurisdiction of any other State, nor any State be formed by the junction of two or more States, or parts of States, without the consent of the Legislatures of the States concerned, as well as of Congress."  This, then, gives the power to form new States, with the consent of the Legislature, either within the jurisdiction of one State already existing, or a new State to be admitted.  I deny, then, that Congress has a right to dismember California without her consent; and I doubt very much whether we ourselves possess the right to dismember the territory without the consent of Congress.  I contend that Congress must admit us with our whole boundary, or reject our Constitution claiming that boundary.  The gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Halleck) has fully answered the objections which may be urged against including the whole boundary of California.  I think the House is decided in opinion that we should take it all in.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  The gentleman's position is not tenable.  What was the position of Louisiana?  It stood in the same position as California.  The territory included not only Louisiana but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  Before the question is taken on the amendment of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) I should like to give my views on the subject.  If I understand that amendment, it embraces the whole of the Territory of California as ceded by Mexico to the United States; to be embodied as one State; to be under the government of the Constitution that we are about to present to our fellow citizens in Congress.  I am opposed to it; and I will give my reasons for opposition as plainly as I can.  I am no speaker, sir; I have never in my life undertaken to deliver any kind of argument in a deliberative body; and I trust my views will be at least understood, if not properly expressed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Chairman, when we send our Constitution to Congress for ratification, and ask to be admitted as a State into this Confederacy, Congress has no right to consider the local and internal regulations which we have adopted for our government; they simply look over them to see that there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  As to what ought to be our future boundary, I concur fully with several gentlemen who have expressed the opinion that the crest of the Sierra Nevada, or some line of longitude near it should be the future permanent boundary of this State; and if that was the only question before the House, I should, without hesitation, vote for the proposition which embraces these limits.  But there are other questions which ought to influence our action.  We are here now in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Let us draw a definite line for the boundary on the east, and contend for it.  We have no neighbors who can be injured by it; no white men live within a thousand miles of us, and why should we hesitate to adopt at once that line--the Sierra Nevada--that God and nature intended for us.  I can see no advantage in the proposition to take in all and leave Congress to settle the line, admitting that they give nothing less than the country west of the Sierra Nevada, and no more nor less, I think decidedly better.  Mr. Chairman we will suppose a case.  Our Constitution is sent to the United States, with the whole boundary of Upper California with a proviso by which Congress has the privilege of diminishing it.  Then, sir, suppose that the members in Congress from the Southern States should say, If the boundary is not permanently established, why should we not come in for a share of these rich mineral <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>It is a matter of vast importance to the people of this Territory that our Constitution should go to Congress with a boundary for the State that no fault can be found with.  It is of vital importance that this State Government, when fully formed, should immediately go into operation.  We are able, and have an undoubted right to do so; and should the United States not receive us into the Union, are we not able to take care of ourselves?  And does such an event render it incumbent upon us to pause where we stand for one moment.  No, sir.  We have taken the first step towards establishing a government, and I say <HI REND="italics">let it be done, and done speedily</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I desire to ask if gentlemen suppose that this Convention is able to settle a question which all the talent and wisdom in Congress could not settle?  I believe that both parties in Congress would be willing to leave this matter to the inhabitants of California so far as regards the territory that properly comes within the limits of this State; but my colleague from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood, argues that we should settle it to the full extent of the territory acquired from Mexico, known as California.  Not a gentleman here seems to be willing to admit that Congress will sanction a line extending to New Mexico; and the very fact that they give Congress the privilege of reducing it, shows that they prefer the lesser boundary.  The only object, therefore, is to settle the question of slavery beyond that line.  No member desires that we should embrace it within our limits as a State; this is the only point at issue.  I ask gentlemen to reflect on the proposition they make.  Is it at all likely that Congress will permit a handful of men on the remote shores of the Pacific, to determine for them this question over an extent of territory equal to the whole South?  I ask what do we gain by leaving an indefinite boundary?  So far as I can see, we only open the door of debate.  It is impossible for me to arrive at any other conclusion.  Sir, we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  The gentleman (Mr. McCarver) says he is in favor of a permanent boundary.  How is he going to get a permanent boundary by fixing it upon the Sierra Nevada?  Is he sure that Congress will not cut us off on the south?  If the gentleman has that assurance from a majority of the members of Congress, I should like to see it.  I hope he will produce it.  In my opinion, if a majority of Congress are determined to settle the question of slavery, they will give us the whole territory.  If it is objected to by Mr. Calhoun or any other gentleman who is in favor of slavery over a part of California, it will be answered that it is too expensive to establish a Territorial Government on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada; that that territory is for the most part a desert waste, and may rest with California as a part of the State without being expensive to the people of California; but that it would be quite a burden in thirty or forty years at an annual expense to the Treasury of the United States of one or two hundred thousand dollars a year--a large portion of which we would have to pay ourselves.  In regard to preventing our admission into the Union by extending the boundary to New Mexico, we expressly say to Congress, that if they will not give us that, they may cut us down to the Sierra Nevada.  If we cut ourselves down now, gentlemen on the other side will say we have acted very foolishly in not embracing the whole territory, and thus throwing out of the councils of the nation the subject of all the difficulty.  If we are admitted into the Union, and become a constituent part of the great confederacy--a new star in the galazy of stars, we shall always, I trust, have the same desire to keep the Union together; to preserve it in spirit and substance, as we had when we were residents of the older States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  I feel under some obligation to repeat a conversation which has a direct bearing upon this matter.  There is a distinguished member of Congress who holds his seat from one of the States of the Union, now in California.  With a desire to obtain all the information possible in relation to the state of things on the other side of the mountains, I asked him what was the desire of the people in Congress; I observed to him that it was not the desire of the people of California to take a larger boundary than the Sierra Nevada; and that we would prefer not embracing within our limits this desert waste to the east.  His reply was: "For God's sake leave us no territory to legislate upon in Congress."  He went on to state then that the great object in our formation of a State Government was to avoid further legislation.  There would be no question as to our admission by adopting this course; and that all subjects of minor importance could afterwards be settled.  I think it my duty to impart this information to the Convention.  The conversation took place between Mr. Thomas Butler King and myself.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  The gentlemen misunderstood my remarks.  I said that the whole machinery of a Territorial Government from the Governor downwards, including the judiciary, would be more expensive for forty or fifty years, than Congress would desire to make it; but that the State of California, with almost the same number of officers that it would take to govern to the Sierra Nevada, might at the same time extend her laws over the territory to the eastward without additional expense; and that Congress might urge this as a reason against the admission of California without that boundary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I understand the gentleman's argument now to be, that Congress will say, if we do not include this in our limits, that the government of this territory on the eastern side is too expensive for them, and we must take it upon our own shoulders, otherwise they will not admit us.  I think I would have a ready reply to Congress:  Your resources enable you much better to undertake the expenses of this government than the resources of the State of California.  You can better afford to make the appropriation than we can.  I will grant you, sir, that the burden of government would be less, because it would be a much more imperfect government for the people, but it is not the less an appropriation.  Does the gentleman forget that all the great sources of revenue to come from imports levied in California, go into the Treasury of the United States?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  We intend to have a portion of it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I know nothing about the intention of the gentleman; but he tells you that the burden of this government will be less.  I deny it, if you give to this people a government that they will be entitled to; if you do not force them to come a most extraordinary distance to the seat of government, you will be obliged to locate your seat of government somewhere that is as attainable to them as to us; and then, sir, the burden of that government will be felt by every citizen of this country who is compelled to travel to it.  You must extend your judiciary system over that part of the country.  A tax collector must go among them.  These men do not travel for nothing.  You must have many additional judges.  A judge would probably be two, four, or five months in travelling to and fro upon his circuit.  Then he would have to come and sit in your court of appeals.  Is this all to be done without expense?  Let any gentleman run over the whole organization of government and see if it is possible to extend it over this country without expense.  Mr. Chairman, the gentleman has produced by his remarks probably one of the strongest arguments that could be addressed to this House against this eastern boundary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>But there is another.  I believe it is the desire of many members of this Convention to secure for the passage of this Constitution, when it is submitted to the people, as many votes as they can.  I do say that the adoption of that eastern boundary, with the avowed intention as expressed on this floor on the question of slavery, must secure against it the vote of every Southern man in this country who has left a brother or friend at home.  I know they are comparatively few; but, sir, there are others that will unite with them.  There are Northern men who look upon the inhabitants of the Southern portion of this Union as their friends and brothers, entitled to privileges that they are not to be deprived of by any course of this sort.  I know that the two together will form a strong body of opponents to this Constitution, and united with other opponents to the Constitution on other grounds they will form such a body as will prevent the possibility of its receiving the approval of the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I move to rise and report progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I beg leave to make a single remark in answer to that portion of the gentleman's remarks where he referred to my argument that Congress might object on account of the expense of the Territorial Government.  I contend that if we govern that portion as a portion of this State, we must govern it in proportion to population.  If it is five thousand or ten thousand, they will certainly have to pay their proportionate share of taxes.  In the other case, if they are governed by Congress, we will also have to pay a considerable portion of the expense.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then took a recess till half-past seven.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 71/2 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  This question, Mr. Chairman, is a very important one.  I consider the proposition of my colleague from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) the only one that we can act upon legitimately and in good faith.  It becomes us not only to act upon the question as regards the present, but the future.  We are to determine what now is, and what is to be, the future limits of the State of California; and I contend, sir, as a first principle, that we are not at liberty either to take one <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I understand that my friend, Captain Sutter, desires to speak on this question.  The House, I have no doubt, will be much pleased to hear him.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SUTTER.  I speak English so imperfectly that I shall only make a single remark.  Gentlemen who have passed through these deserts and travelled over these mountains, may know something about it; but it is impossible for gentlemen who have come by the way of Cape Horn, to imagine what a great desert it is, and know how impolitic it would be to the State of California to embrace within its limits such a country.  Except a small slip of the great Salt Lake, which is worth something to the people who are living there, but there is such an immense space between us and that part of the country, that I consider it of no value whatever to the State of California.  I believe our limits ought to be just as much as agreed upon by the Committee, with the exception of an amendment which I think it requires to facilitate the trade of the people of San Diego with Sonora and New Mexico, to include that portion, to the confluence of the Gila and Colorado rivers, which it omits.  This is all I have to say.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  There are periods in the proceedings of every delibrative body, when calm investigation should follow the excitement of debate; and if that period has at any time arrived, I believe it is the present.  I consider this question of the boundary decidedly the most important that has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>I believe this proposition will secure the reception of our Constitution.  I am very confident it will receive the support of the Administration, and of all the moderate men of the South.  I am confident it will secure the support of the North; and with these three bodies, there can be no doubt of its success.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Another instance is to be found in the Constitution of Missouri.  No territory had been previously rejected by any act of Congress.  The manner of fixing the boundaries there is precisely similar to what I have presented to the House--following degrees of latitude and taking meridianal lines of longitude.  I hardly believe that gentlemen will maintain any longer that the people of California have no right to fix their own boundaries.  This territory was purchased--how and in what manner?  It was purchased from Mexico and received into the Union, not as Mexican Territory, not as California territory, but as territory of the United States.  It belonged to the United States Government the moment it was purchased, and was therefore entitled to the same privileges which have been enjoyed by other territories.  It is for the people of California to say around what portion of it they shall fix their boundary lines.  The old gray hairs, sir, of the States, sustain me in that position.  Upon this the gentlemen have been changing ground.  We have, then, five propositions before the House.  The first is, the proposition of the Committee; next is, the proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) united with the proposition of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck.)  Now, sir, I do not know whether they call this a partnership concern or not; but that, together with the proposition of my colleague, (Mr. McDougal,) <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:can, I suppose, be classed together.  The only place where they differ is in regard to the proviso, and upon that they seem determined to make a stand.  Let us see precisely upon what they do stand.  The chief argument which has been urged in favor of the extreme boundary, has been, not as to the necessity, not the convenience, not the benefit to be derived from it, not the necessity of including it, but the probability of its passing the Congress of the United States, and the authority of a gentleman from Congress, that if such a proposition was adopted, it would pass.  Sir, I claim for the dignity of the new State of California, that dictation of this kind should not receive a very favorable reception in this House; that we should not listen to the propositions of gentlemen in this matter, however high their characters at home, who shall come here and say to this Convention, gentlemen pass such and such boundaries for the State of California, and you will probably be able to pass through Congress, and become a sovereign and independent State.  If you don't do so, there is danger at hand; you cannot pass.  Sir, this is not only an insult, but it is a threat held out; and I call upon this Convention to have some regard for their own dignity, and for the dignity of the State of California by promptly rejecting such authority.  But who are these authorities?  Are they men who have become, by long life or service in this country, so deeply interested in the welfare of California, that the weal of the new State is alone the dearest object of their aspirations?  Or are they not rather the agents of interested parties, not of Congress?  For they do not speak the will of Congress; a single man cannot speak the will of Congress.  And when the President of this Convention stated this afternoon the expression of Mr. Thomas Butler King--" <HI REND="italics">For God sake leave no territory in California to dispute about</HI>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. Charman, these gentlemen need not tell me that this must close the question which has heretofore prevented us from having a government here, when at the very same time, they provide the means of opening it.  The two ideas are diametically opposed--they cannot exist together.  If the one closes the door, the other opens it.  I leave it to the common sense of gentlemen, if this is not so.  The object of the proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco is defected by the proviso of the gentleman from Monterey.  For these reasons, Mr. Chairman, I go against fixing any boundary line with any proviso, admitting and giving to Congress the right to move it whereever they see fit.  The next proposition to which I would refer, is the boundary proposed by the Committee.  That boundary commences at the intersection of the 116th merician of west longitude, and 42d degree of north latitude, and includes more than one-half the width of the entire territory of California at the north, while at the southern part it runs to less than one degree.  It has the same fault as the proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) including too much territory, only in a slighter degree.  It includes an enormous tract of country, which, from the best information we can obtain, is entirely useless.  It gives us an extent of territory nearly as unwieldly and unmanageable as if we included the whole; while at the southern portion of the country, a source of trade to that portion of California, which has already proved extremely valuable, and which will be greatly enhanced in value when our commerce is fully opened in that direction.  I speak of the trade with the interior provinces of Mexico, passing the Colorado river, together with the navigation of the Colorado, to whatever extent that navigation can be carried.  I cannot, therefore, agree with the report of the Committee.  It includes too much territory that is useless, and omits too much that is valueable.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The proviso of my colleague from Sacramento, (Mr. McDougal,) that in case Congress shall not ratify the boundary including the entire limits of California, then that the summit line of the Sierra Nevada shall form the eastern boundary, I consider, of all the boundaries, the most objectionable.  It leaves out valleys, rivers, streams, places which may afford immense wealth upon the eastern side of the summit.  It is a kind of boundary which must always be indistinct and difficult to determine under the very best circumstances; but here it is most peculiarly so.  However well-determined, however plain and distinct the summit line of the Sierra Nevada may be as far south as it is here laid down in the map of Col. Fremont, you will see that it crosses it only as far south as the 35th degree of N. latitude.  It leaves a great stretch of country at the southern boundary.  Now, I am not aware what the character of that chain of mountains may be, but I think there are gentlemen from the southern part of the country who will sustain me in this, that below that, all southeast and south, there is not a chain of mountains that could be followed as a distinct line.  The whole country there is a region of moutains, shaken down as it were on the face of the earth at random.  There is no regular summit line that could possibly be followed.  Then you have there a most indirect line, you have no boundary at all.  But even if you could find a line of boundary there, it has the same objection which the line proposed by the Committee has--that it leaves out a most important portion of territory in the southern part of California, and gives to the State a sort of three cornered form--a shape most awkward and ungainly.  In making up a State we should look a little to the formation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The proposition which I offer, it seems to me, removes every difficulty of this kind.  Commencing at the intersection of the 120th meridian of west longitude, and the 42nd degree of north latitude, it runs southerly in a direct line about half a degree east of the Sierra Nevada, and always running sufficiently east to include this entire range, until it strikes the meridian at their southeast bend, about the 38th degree of north latitude, then it takes a direct line from that intersection till it strikes the Colorado at a point where the 35th degree of north latitude crosses it; thence down the eastern bank of that river to the boundary line established between the United States and Mexico; and thence following the report of the committee.  This secures to us, in the first place, all that is valuable in the territory.  In the next place, it fixes the boundary within such reasonable limits that Congress can make no objection to it.  It settles the question of slavery within our own territory, and leaves to Congress a matter which ought to be entirely foreign to us--the question of slavery in any further territory.  It will be sustained, too, on the ground that a great portion of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARILLO addressed the Convention, through the interpreter, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>So far as I understand the question before the House, it is as to what are the proper limits of Upper California.  In the year 1768, the Spanish Government formed certain limits for this country.  Afterwards, when the Spanish possessions here fell into the hands of the Mexicans, the Government of Mexico always recognised and respected that as the boundary of Upper California.  I am of opinion that the proposition of the gentlemen from San Francisco (Mr. GWIN) adopts the proper boundary as fixed by old Spain.  I see no reason why it should not continue to be recognised still.  Quite enough has been said on this subject.  Members of this Convention are sent here by the people of California, not to form a State Government for any particular portion of the territory, but for California.  The only question is, what is California?  It is the territory defined as such by the Government of Spain, and always recognised as such by the Mexican Government.  I do not cenceive that this Government has any right whatever to take the least portion away that has been ceded by the Government of Mexico.  You have no right to deprive the inhabitants of any portion of California of the protection of government.  Your duty is to form a constitution for what really is, and always has been, California.  If you do not, your descendants hereafter will have good cause to complain that you have done them injustice.  This State, in a very short time, may become one of the richest States in the Union, and contribute as much to the honor, power, and glory of the United States as any State in the confederacy.  For these reasons, and many other that I do not deem it necessary to urge at present, I hope you will take the vote on the merits of the case without further discussion.  For my own part, I am in favor of the joint proposition of Messrs. Gwin and Halleck.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  Mr. Chairman, after the long discussion we have had this evening and throughout the day upon this question, I confess I am thoroughly exhausted, and will offer but very few remarks.  Before I commence I should like to ask the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Shannon) what was the remark that he made in regard to Louisiana and Missouri--whether he stated that the State of Louisiana picked out her own territory, and that Missouri was admitted without having had a Territorial Government?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I said that the people of Louisiana, in defining the boundaries of the State, took from the whole territory, as obtained by treaty from France, a portion sufficient for the State of Louisiana; and I referred to the first article of the constitution of that State as affording a precedent of the right of States to establish their own boundaries.  I said that in the State of Missouri no portion of the territory had been rejected by any act of Congress previous to the State organization.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I thought it probable I might have misunderstood the gentleman; I merely made the inquiry because I have some knowledge on that question that differs from the gentleman's first statement, which I think he has now modified.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I desire to make a few remarks in answer to the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) in regard to the extent of this territory, and the objection which he urges that the representation in this Convention does not cover this boundary.  If the gentleman was at all familiar with the history of all the new States, where there are Indian tribes, he would know perfectly well that nearly every constitution and every State was formed where there was not, in some instances, one-half of the territory included in the regularly organized counties of the State.  It was so in the State of Mississippi.  For fifteen years more than half of her territory was unrepresented, and not regarded as within the organized limits of the several counties of the State.  So also with the State of Alabama; and nearly every Western State occupied the same position.  They formed State Governments <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>In regard to the extent of this territory, as proposed to be included, a great deal has been said, especially by the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts.)  Now that gentleman knows perfectly well that the "Old Dominion" formerly occupied a great deal larger territory than this.  The State of Virginia at one time covered an extent of territory far beyond that which California will contain within the whole boundary which has been proposed.  So far as the extent of territory is concerned, we can suffer no inconvenience.  As it populates, provision may be made for the inhabitants who will occupy those portions now unsettled.  I do not intend to occupy much time in the discussion of this question, but will proceed briefly to answer some remarks in regard to the Mormon settlements.  Gentlemen proclaim against the injustice of forcing a government upon them.  Great stress is laid upon the fact that they are not represented here.  Why, sir, there is no proposition on the part of the State of California to force the Mormons to become a part of this Government.  We do not propose to extend the laws of the State or any district to them.  We do not propose to send tax collectors or government officers there.  We await their own action.  If they wish the benefits of the Government we are about to establish, let them send a petition to have representatives allotted to them, and judicial districts established.  If they desire the protection of our laws, let them send to us, and it will then be a matter of inquiry on the part of our State Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>But have they any right to complain?  Are we not the majority?  Does any one pretend to say, in this House or elsewhere, that the districts of California established under the proclamation do not contain a population that is not here represented?  Have not thousands reached the country since we were elected?  As a minority are they not bound to submit to the will of the majority?  Sir, are we not here forcing a State Government upon a portion of the people of California whose delegates have, by their recorded votes, stated the fact that their constituents are unanimously against a State Government, and in favor of a Territorial organization.  Do you not expect and require that they shall sustain this Government and become a part of it?  If not, let us require their delegates to retire from this Convention, apply to Congress for a Territorial Government, and exclude them from our State boundary.  Gentlemen affect to believe that in taking in a large extent of territory not represented here, and from which no opposition to our action has become known to us, we are doing a great act of injustice to those people; when, at the same moment, we have here before us the direct protest against a State Government of a portion of the inhabitants of this territory who are represented.  But do we stop--do we refrain from committing this act of injustice?  No, sir; we go on and include them; we never think of excluding them.  They bear the expense of a State Government, while they prefer a Territorial Government; but rather than submit to a separate organization, or run the risk of getting no Government at all, they waive their objection and act with us.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The constitution of Michigan was formed by a political party.  The Democratic party of Michigan determined to form a State Government; the Whig party protested against it.  This is my recollection of the case.  If I am in error I hope some gentleman will correct me.  Thus a single party formed a State Government, the other party refusing to go to the polls or participate in it.  Yet it was recognised as a legitimate Government by the Congress of the United States; and their Senators and Representatives took their seats.  What was the result?  The minority, upon whom a State Government was forced, acquiesced.  It was not the less binding upon them because they did not participate in its formation; nor was it the less binding because they actually took part against it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, it is a new doctrine that every man must be represented within the borders of the new State; a new doctrine, never known or preached before.  It is said here, and I have been informed myself, that the Mormons have petitioned Congress to give them a Territorial Government.  I take it for granted that this is true.  I admit, and argue from it.  If they have petitioned for a Territorial Government, have they any right to complain of the Government which we are about to establish?  They want the benefit of government; and do they suppose that if the Congress of the United States had established the Government that it was proposed to create here, at the last session, that they would have given them a separate Government?  There never was more than one proposition on the subject, and that was to give a Territorial Government to all California; one Territory, not a western one for us, and an eastern one for them.  If the people of California could not get a Territorial Government, how can the Mormons expect to get it?  What superior claims have they?  All they ask for is the protection of government.  What injury do we inflict upon them in forming a State Government, which, if they want protection, affords it to them as well as to us.  Especially, if we are to judge from what has occurred at the two sessions, it is impossible for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>It is well known that the Mormons are a peculiar class of people; that they are a religious sect, professing principles peculiar to themselves.  They sought their present location for the express purpose of getting out of the reach of government; to establish a system of their own; and they have located at an isolated point which cannot maintain a large population.  We do not ask them to pay taxes or support this Government.  We do not ask them to send their representatives here.  If they remain there peaceably, if they want protection from the Indians, let the Government of the United States send its forces and protection to them.  If they want representation, let them send their memorial here and ask for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>If I understood the gentleman from Sonoma, (Mr. Semple,) he stated this morning, that if we establish no boundaries, Congress will be forced to admit us with the boundaries we now have.  I cannot admit the argument.  I do not look upon it, that if we were to send our constitution to Congress they are forced to give us all of the boundary that we have described, or that they are forced to give it to us if we do not describe it.  I think gentlemen are laboring under a great mistake in regard to the power of Congress on this subject when they assume that, if we pronounce a certain line as the boundary of California, it shall be the boundary, notwithstanding any objection of Congress.  I have not the remotest idea that the Congress of the United States would give us this great extent of boundary if it was expected that it should remain one State.  And when gentlemen say that they never will give up one inch of the Pacific coast, they say what they cannot carry out.  So far as I am concerned, I should like to see six States fronting on the Pacific in California.  I want the additional power in the Congress of the United States of twelve Senators instead of four; for it is notorious, sir, that the State of Delaware, smaller than our smallest district, has as much power in the Senate as the great State of New York.  It is not the passage of a bill through the House of Representatives that makes a law; that bill has to go through the Senate, and in that body the State of Delaware has as much power as the State of New York.  And the past history of our country, sir, developes the fact that we will have State upon State here-probably as many as on the Atlantic side--and as we accumulate States we accumulate strength; our institutions become more powerful to do good and not to do evil.  I have no doubt the time will come when we will have twenty States this side of the Rocky Mountains.  I want the power, sir, and the population.  When the population comes, they will require that this State shall be divided.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Will the gentlemen who propose this line tell us what proofs there are on record, anywhere, that it was ever adopted or ever known as the original boundary line of California--that it has ever been recognised as such by the Congress of the United States?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  The only information I have on the subject is that which I obtain from the official documents of the United States, the great umpire to whom we must submit this question.  They have published officially certain maps and laid down certain boundaries.  I take it for granted that Congress will recognise them.  They are official, so far as the Government of the United States is concerned, and I have conversed with gentlemen in California who tell me that it is the precise boundary laid down by Mexico.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I have conversed with the oldest inhabitants, and they have assured me that no such line exists.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The proviso of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck,) was added at his suggestion.  I prefer sending my proposition as I offered it.  We should not mutilate our Constitution on this subject.  We send it to a great power.  Gentlemen deny the right of Congress to interfere with the subject of our limits.  If Congress has not the power to designate what we shall be, why do we send our constitution there?  I was opposed to any other boundary but that of California as recognised by the Governments of the United States and Mexico, for another reason, and I consider it a very important one, that if we leave a portion of territory out, we would necessarily open a question which we here should not interfere with.  We all know what 36 deg. 30 min. is.  It is the great bone of contention.  North of that there is no contest.  South of it there is a contest.  If gentlemen will look where this line strikes the Pacific, they will see that not a solitary vote was cast by a delegate in this Convention south of that line, except those cast against a State Government.  The Representatives here from that region are unanimous in their votes against the establishment of a State Government.  If we include the Territory these Delegates represent on the coast, why exclude the barren waste beyond, where no white man lives?  We take away the substance and leave the shadow.  Let us take the whole territory or stop at that line.  If we stop at that line, we mutilate the Convention by excluding the members south of it.  When we speak of the necessity of having the whole Pacific coast, and especially my friend from Sacramento, (Mr. McCarver,) who says we must have it <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, the gentleman alluded to Iowa this morning, and stated that the Government of the United States had been compelled to grant her eventually such boundaries as she demanded.  The question with Iowa was this: She formed a State Constitution and laid it before Congress.  Now, bear it mind, that most of the new States came into existence by express authority of Congress.  We have none.  The very authority that was granted to Iowa, and which was asked for in the Congress of the United States to permit us to form a State Government, was refused.  Sir, sixty out of ninety days of the last session was occupied in the discussion of this great question, and they refused to pass a bill to permit us to do what we are sitting here now to do--to form a State Government for California.  In regard to Iowa, by authority of the Congress of the United States, she formed a State Constitution, defining certain limits.  What did she do?  She rejected those limits.  Then what did she do?  Did she come in in defiance of Congress?  By no means; she waited quietly under her Territorial Government until Congress thought proper to admit her; then, and not until then, did she come in as a State.  That is the way they do things on the other side of the mountains.  When Louisiana came up, what did Congress say before she permitted her to talk about a Constitution at all?  That State, sir, was admitted in the Union by act of Congress in 1812.  Before her admission, conditions were prescribed, requiring that the laws which the State should pass, and its records of every description, should be preserved in the English language.</P>
196.sgm:<P>You will see something of that kind when you go there, because there are portions of California whose records are published in a different language from our own.  They will require that these records shall be in the same language as ours.  Congress may require us to insert the same provision in regard to the public lands.  Sir, if we look through the history of Territorial Governments and the States that have been admitted from Territorial Governments, you will find that the Congress of the United States assumes a power and control which that body will not lightly surrender.  I know, sir, that we are in a peculiar situation; and as my friend from Sacramento (Mr. McCarver) stated this morning that Congress is in a tight place, and to get clear of the difficulty will probably go farther than they ever did before.  But there is a certain point beyond which they cannot go and do justice to the people of the United States whom they represent.  Sir, a gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. McDougal) stated this morning that probably there were parties on this floor who wished to make boundaries so objectionable, including territory so large, that Congress would eject it; that these gentlemen had friends who have negroes over the way, to whom they were anxious to extend the opportunity of bringing them out here.  Did the gentleman allude to me in that remark?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I am not aware that the gentleman has any friends who own negroes that they wish to bring here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I am glad to hear the gentleman did not allude to me.  So far as I am concerned, I have no fear but that the Constitution which we are about to send to Congress will be accepted, if it has no objectionable provisions; if we do not insert in it that which may be offensive in language, or in restrictions upon the Government of the United States, which we have no right to impose, and which may force them to reject it altogether.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>I have been called upon, sir, to give my sentiments in regard to the question that caused these difficulties--that has prevented California from having a government.  The boundary which I have proposed here, I never for a moment thought would be open to question.  I would scorn to propose a boundary that would deprive of their rights a portion of the people of this Union.  If there is any portion of this country south of 36 deg. 30 min. adapted to slave labor and slave cultivation, I have never heard of it.  The mines are all north of it; south of it, except in a few spots, it is a barren waste.  If any portion of the people south of that line, or those likely to settle there, favor the introduction of slavery, let it be included.  If not, why provide for that which can never happen?  I have no fears but if we send our Constitution to Congress with this boundary, and with no other objectionable features, it will be adopted, to include the Pacific coast and to the Sierra Nevada, if not the whole territory.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, I hear great complaints against the Government of the United States here.  It does no good.  We all know that we ought to have had a government; that such a case never existed before in the history of any Government, that such a great country as this should have been neglected as it has been.  But gentlemen should recollect that there must have been great cause to have produced such a result.  This question, sir, which agitates the Union, may be looked upon by some here as a mere abstract question; but as has been said by a distinguished gentleman, whose name has been used here: "to the North it is a sentiment; to the South, a point of honor."  We all know what a point of honor is in Governments.  A point of honor may dissolve our Confederacy.  It has dissolved nations.  If we make a Constitution with unexceptionable features, and send to the Congress of the United States a State Government for the Territory of California as she is known and recognised, I am not afraid of injustice being done us.  We may be cut down in our eastern boundary to the Sierra Nevada.  I do not expect, nor do I desire that California shall contain all the territory which we include in our boundary.  I want to see many States in it as our population increases.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Chairman, I have stated that we should have had a Government; that we have been treated as no civilized people ever were before by any free Government.  But there have been causes, uncontrollable, to have produced this; and for remarks to emanate from this body, all of which will be published, denouncing the Government of the United States, is not the way for us to obtain that action there which I hope we will obtain.  I believe the time has arrived to settle the question that agitates the Union, or it is in danger.  I believe we can do it if wisdom and moderation govern our action; and I have made it my object, while participating in the formation of this Constitution, to make one that would have that tendency in the Congress of the United States.  As to gentlemen, quoting high authorities in the United States, and reading partisan newspapers to prove that there is no excitement on the question of slavery, no man who looks deliberately at the state of feeling at home can be blind to the fact that the whole public are aroused on this question; that they are preparing for a conflict.  Let us allay this excitement; leave no room to bring it up in the consideration of your Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This has been the cause of my taking so deep an interest in this boundary question, believing it to be one of transcendent importance.  As to the celebrated partnership between the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Halleck) and myself, it was by the merest accident I made any proposition at all.  I had no knowledge of the proposition which the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Halleck) was about to present.  I came into this whole discussion very unexpectedly to myself.  I have not at any time urged my views upon the House.  Not liking any of the propositions which had been submitted, I offered this as a substitute for a part of the proposition of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck,) believing that it would accomplish the object had in view, and he accepted it.  This is the beginning and the end of the copartnership or coalition between us.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I did not expect to have said one additional word on this question; but, sir, there is a secret out.  I wish to say something in relation to it, but not to night.  I rather would urge the committee to rise.  Before doing so, however, I would ask the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin) if there has ever been an instance in which the Constitution of the State, or the boundaries of the State, were not finally admitted by the Congress of the United States, not even excepting Iowa?  For it seems to me that, after all, it was Congress that submitted to include her boundaries.  I shall content myself for the present by moving that the committee rise and report progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I introduced this morning a proviso against dividing the State of California north and south, which I afterwards withdrew.  The gentleman (Mr. Gwin) has just held it out that if we do not include this entire territory, Congress will have the right to run Mason and Dixon's line, or any other line, through our territory.  That is another strong argument why we should define a particular boundary.  The gentleman can point to no instance in which the boundaries of a new State, particularly defined within the Constitution presented to Congress, has not finally been accepted by Congress.  He made one reference and failed in that, for he admitted that Congress had finally to admit the State of Iowa as she at first defined her boundaries.  Now, sir, if we are to follow precedents, and show a proper deference for the gray hairs of the States, it is our policy to fix a permanent boundary, and it follows that the State of California will be admitted.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS hoped the question would not be taken to-night, as several gentlemen were absent who desired to vote on it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK explained that the question was on the amendment of the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin) as amended by himself.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After some discussion it was decided that the question should be put, so as to test the sense of the Committee in regard to which proposition it preferred--the joint propositions of Messrs. Gwin and Halleck, or the amendment of Mr. McDougal, and it was decided in favor of the former by Ayes, 16; Noes, 13.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved as an amendment his proposition.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided it to be out of order, inasmuch as the House had, by the vote just taken, determined to accept the proposition of Messrs. Gwin and Halleck.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS asked if the Chair was very sure of the correctness of this decision?  Were they all substitutes for the report of the Committee?  Was this body entitled to consider no other proposition than that of Messrs. Gwin and Halleck?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Some discussion took place on this point of order; an appeal was taken from the decision of the Chair, and the decision of the Chair was sustained.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment of Mr. Gwin, as amended by Mr. Halleck, to the original report of the committee, and it was adopted, by ayes 19, noes 4--as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The boundaries of California shall be as follows: beginning at the point on the Pacific ocean south of San Diego, to be established by the Commissioners of the United States and Mexico, appointed under the treaty of 30th May, 1848, for running the boundary line between the territories of the United States and those of Mexico, and thence running in an easterly direction, on the line fixed by said Commissioners as the boundary, to the territory of New Mexico; thence northerly on the boundary line between New Mexico, the territory of the United States, and California, as laid down on the "Map of Oregon and Upper California, from the surveys of John Charles Fremont and other authorities, drawn by Charles Preuss, under the order of the Senate of the United States, Washington city, 1848," to the 42d degree north latitude; thence due west, on the boundary line between Oregon and California, to the Pacific ocean; thence southerly along the coast of the Pacific ocean, including the islands and bays belonging to California, to the place of beginning.</P>
196.sgm:<P>But the Legislature shall have power, by the votes of a majority of both houses, to accede to such propositions as may be made by the Congress of the United States, upon the admission of California into the national confederacy and Union, (if they shall be deemed just and reasonable,) to limit the eastern boundary of the State to the Sierra Nevada, and a line drawn from some point in that range to some point on the Colorado or Gila river, or to limit such eastern boundary to a line running from some point on the 42d degree of north latitude, between the Great Salt Lake and the Sierra Nevada, to some point on the Colorado or Gila river, as aforesaid, and to organize by Congress a Territorial Government for that portion of California east of this boundary, or to admit it into the Union as a distinct and separate State, and the Legislature shall make declaration of such assent by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the committee then rose, and reported its action to the House, which report was received and laid upon the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In Convention.  Prayer by the Rev. Padre Antonio Ramirez.  The journal of yesterday was read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:, That this House adjourn <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>He did this because it would give the Committee sufficient time to transact all the business before it, and he thought by having an understanding as to the exact time when it would adjourn, the business could be concluded, and the members return to their homes.  He believed the principal business was finished; and that the Committee on the Constitution had concluded its labors, with the exception of the schedule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES protested against the resolution.  The Convention had not, by any means, decided the most important questions before it; and if it was tied down to a certain time, there might be haste in its action, which would be felt for some time to come.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK believed that a majority of the members were ready to vote upon all questions that might come up hereafter.  He trusted the resolution would be adopted; and that gentlemen would shape their debates accordingly.  For one, he was anxious to get through the business and go home; and he believed the majority of the delegates shared the same anxiety.  The most important question to be decided was the judiciary system.  This would not require debate; it would only be necessary to consider it calmly and deliberately, and then vote upon it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved to amend the resolution by saying Monday at 12 o'clock, so as to give the Convention Saturday night.  By adjourning on that day the Southern members would still have time to go home in the steamer.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT, for one, would be obliged to record his vote against the resolution.  It was the first instance on record, he believed, of a Convention adjourning in this way.  Such things were common in Legislative bodies; but the members of this Convention were not sent here to form acts which might be rescinded or repealed in a few months.  They were sent here to form a permanent Constitution; to settle the great principles upon which legislation itself should be conducted in this State for all time to come.  He thought that a few days more or less, upon questions of such momentous importance, not only to ourselves, but to the millions who are to occupy this country hereafter, was of no sort of consequence when compared with the importance of the object.  He thought it clear that the tendency and necessary effect of the adoption of such a resolution fixing a day so near, must be to hurry measures of great importance through in an imperfect form, and prevent that deliberate exercise of judgment so necessary in forming a fundamental law of government.  If there was any thing that should be deliberately done, it was the revision of the Constitution as partly adopted in Committee of the Whole.  Much time had been spent in debate.  Reason had not had full scope owing to the mists of excitement.  Now was the time, after the excitement of debate, when reason should have its full sway, undisturbed by prejudice or feeling.  For these reasons, he thought it inexpedient to fix a day of adjournment, and would therefore oppose the resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS accepted the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck,) fixing the time on Monday.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK said that some of his friends wished him to make a suggestion.  The business of the Convention could be finished by Monday, and then if any gentleman wished to make long speeches, they could do so after the adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT reminded the House that the Schedule had yet to come up, and there were questions in it which would necessarily give rise to much debate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES referred also to the fact that there was a rule of the House which could not be reconsidered without one day's notice, requiring an entire day for the final reading of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN gave notice of rescinding that rule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to lay the resolution on the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was decided in the affirmative by ayes 18, noes 16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK gave notice that Mr. Pedro Sansevane, a delegate elect from San Jose, was present, and being entitled to take his seat under the report of the Committee on Elections, he asked that Mr. Sansevane be sworn and permitted to take his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SANSEVANE was accordingly sworn, and took his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT offered the following resolution, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said he made a report some days since, from the Committee of Ways and Means.  He now moved that it be taken up and read, which was agreed to, and the report was read by the Secretary as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee appointed to report on the ways and means of defraying the expenses of the State Government to be adopted by this Convention, beg leave to submit the following report:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That the position of California is anomalous and different from that which any portion of the United States ever occupied.  Like Louisiana and Florida, it is a purchase; but while they had the benefits of Territorial Governments, California has been left without any.  A question of exciting interest and importance in the United States has so divided Congress that all attempts to establish a government for this country have failed, and the necessity is forced upon California of forming a State Government in her present unprovided state.  This is no fault of the people of California, nor should they be oppressed by it.  The United States, up to the present time, have always provided governments for their Territories, and paid from the national treasury the expenses incident to the building up of a State in an unsettled country.  Why should this be denied California?  No portion of the territory of the United States ever more needed the paternal care of a Territorial Government.  We are without public buildings, court houses, jails, roads, bridges, or any works of internal improvement.  The prices of building materials and labor of every class <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Ranches that yielded an income equal to six per cent., or $100,000, three years ago, now produce nothing.  The discovery of the gold mines has inflicted the deepest injury on this portion of the Territory, where but two years since were concentrated its wealth and population.  The smallest amount of taxes that would justify the appointment of an assessor and collector would be oppressive to these people, already reduced to poverty, and their ranches going to ruin for want of laborers, and no one can state the time when a different result may be realized.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In the upper and more recently populated districts the vast majority of the people have no property to be taxed, except the gold they dig out of the earth, and which would be difficult, if not impracticable, to reach by taxation.  In the towns that have sprung up, something might be collected; but like all new communities they make the most of their limited capital, and taxes would be severely felt by them.  It is difficult to raise by taxation in these towns where is concentrated most of the active capital of the country, an amount sufficient to support a municipal government, the expenses are so great to get competent persons to hold the offices, administer justice, and collect the revenue.  When laborers and mechanics can command for their services from ten to twenty dollars per day, competent persons to collect and disburse the revenue must be well paid.  These, in a Territorial Government, would be dispensed with, which is one of the great advantages which would accrue to the people of California under such a form of government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee have not access to the proper statistics, to lay before you a general statement of the amount each of the States, who have had a Territorial Government, received in support of such form of government from the Treasury of the United States.  This is much to be regretted, as it would be an irresistible argument in favor of the plan the Committee feel called upon to propose to the Convention to provide ways and means to support the Government we are about to form.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee have attached to their report a statement of the number of years that each of said States, fourteen in number, had the benefit and protection of a Territorial form of Government, in some cases extending to more than thirty years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Without having time to go further into the subject, the Committee recommend that a memorial be prepared to be laid before Congress, with the Constitution we may adopt, showing the necessity we are under of calling on that body to provide for the support of a State Government, by the donation of a portion of the public domain, or by appropriating from the moneys collected in California from the customs and sale of the public lands such amount as may be necessary for that object.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This proposition, in the opinion of the Committee, for reasons herein stated, is based upon a principle of right, and should be insisted upon as such.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In the opinion of the Committee, any system of taxation at present might fail in the object of revenue, and they believe that, when the necessity or policy for adopting this measure may arise, the Legislature will be the proper authority to provide for the case.</P>
196.sgm:<P>All of which is respectfully submitted.<HSEP>W. M. GWIN.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The undersigned, a member of the Committee, finds great difficulty in organizing the "ways and means" best adapted to the present peculiar and unprecedented circumstances in which the State is placed, but would recommend as the most eligible plan, that the Legislature be empowered to raise the proper revenue for defraying the State expenses by levying an Income Land Property Tax, which shall not exceed one quarter per cent.; as likewise a Poll Tax, which shall be left to the Legislature to decide upon, both in relation to the amount as well as the manner of carrying out the same.<HSEP>A. STEARNS.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Lippitt in the chair, on Article VIII, on Education, as reported by the Select Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF THE WHOLE.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first section was read as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The Legislature shall provide for the election by the people of a superintendant of public instruction, who shall hold his office for three years, and whose duties shall be prescribed by law, and who shall receive such compensation as the Legislature may direct.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE had an addition which he wished to append to the report.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL thought this a proper subject for legislative action.  He would therefore move an amendment, that it be left to the Legislature to elect these superintendants.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER was decidedly in favor of placing every thing in the hands of the people, and particularly the subject of School Commissioners.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL withdrew his amendment, and the question being on the 1st section as reported, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 2d section then coming up, as follows, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  The Legislature shall encourage by all suitable means the promotion of intellectual, scientific, moral, and agricultural improvements.  The proceeds of all lands that may be granted by the United States to this State for the support of schools which may be disposed of; and the 500,000 acres of land granted to the new States under an act of Congress distributing the proceeds of the public lands among the several States of the Union, approved A. D. 1841; and all estates of deceased persons who may die without leaving a will or heir; and also such per cent. as may be granted by Congress on the sale of lands in this State, shall be and remain a perpetual fund, the interest of which, together with all the rents of the unsold lands, and such other means as the Legislature may provide, shall be inviolably appropriated for the support of public schools throughout the State:  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I move to strike out the proviso.  It seems to me to be inconsistent with the previous portion of the section.  In one part you say that the proceeds of these lands shall be inviolably appropriated to the support of public schools.  Yet, then turn round and say, provided the Legislature shall not enact laws to the contrary.  Either the first clause or the last should be stricken out.  It is an absurdity in its present shape.  The exigencies of the State, you say, may require it.  You leave the Legislature to judge of what are the exigencies of the State.  The main object of the provision, I presume, is to prohibit the Legislature from appropriating this fund to any thing else.  I cannot see how a friend of this school fund could vote for this proviso.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  The object of the Committee in putting in this proviso was not to prevent the formation of a munificent fund for the support of education, but in case the terms of the act of Congress of 1841, granting five hundred thousand acres of land to the new States, shall not be altered by Congress, that the State should have the power to locate these lands where they please.  If that location covered half a mile or a mile on each side of every river in California, it would give to the State the title to all the principal mining portions of the territory.  This being the case, it is evident that the State Government would have to make some use of these lands on the rivers for the purpose of contributing to the support of the State, from which they would derive  some revenue.  This proviso does not touch all the lands that are granted by Congress for the purpose of schools.  Sections of lands are located in each township by Congress, for the support of schools.  It barely refers to the rents and profits that may be derived from any lands.  The Committee thought that this should be left open to the Legislature, because if you devote it all to the support of education, it might make too large a fund for the support of education.  At any rate, it might deprive the State of the means of supporting itself without too onerous a taxation, because the rent from the gold mines might be conceived to be all that is necessary to impose on the persons engaged in digging the gold.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  The Congress of the United States will never admit a State into the Union, nor never has, since the origin of the territorial system, when Ohio came into the Union, without making it a condition that the 16th section should be reserved and set apart for school purposes.  I do not recollect the amount that is set aside for the benefit of a State when it comes into the Union.  Some few of the States, Iowa the first, I believe, determined that this fund should be placed in the hands of a School Commissioner and held sacred for the purposes of education.  The General Government acquiesced in it, and allowed them this privilege.  Now, sir, if we can locate in the gold mines and procure a fund sufficient to educate our children without calling upon the parents to do so, we should do it.  I am deciedly in favor of placing every farthing that we can, and secure it <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY.  I would suggest to the gentleman who moved to strike out this proviso, that he limit the amount to which the income of these public lands shall go.  He might say one hundred thousand dollars, or any other fixed amount that that the House might desire.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  I had not supposed that there would be much debate on the subject of the school clause in this committee, from the very fact that it seems now to be the almost universal feeling of every American to promote and encourage the system by all possible means.  As to the proposed limitation.  I ask you whether you have ever seen a school fund sufficiently large to answer every purpose, or secure too great a spread of knowledge?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY.  I made the suggestion under the statement of my colleague, (Mr. Sherwood,) that if these lands were located in the gold mines the fund derived from them might rise to such an enormous amount that it might be doing other parts of the State injustice to appropriate all this revenue to school purposes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I regard the education of the youth of this country as highly as the gentleman from Sonoma (Mr. Semple) or any other member upon this floor; but when I am acting for the people of this country, I desire to act for all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I do not think I have been understood by the House in the few remarks that I made on this subject.  I have a tender solicitude for the character and reputation of this Convention, and it is for that reason that I have endeavored to blot from the clause introduced in the report of the committee all evidence of the haste and hurry with which we have adopted this constitution.  That was one great motive that induced me to urge upon this House the striking out of the inconsistent proviso in the last part of this section--either that or the first--so that this five hundred thousand acres of land shall be left altogether at the disposal of the Legislature, or that we tell the Legislature distinctly what shall be done with it.  All I ask is, do one thing or the other clearly and distinctly.  I hope that every acre of that land may be one solid mine of gold.  I am in the habit, sir, of expressing my ideas in as few words as possible, and I hope my remarks may be sufficiently understood without saying any thing more.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I rise, sir, to propose an amendment.  I propose to strike out the word "inviolably" before the word "appropriated," and insert after the word "appropriated" the words "previous to the year 1855."  I think this amendment will effectually do away with all inconsistency upon the face of the clause; and I further think that both the clause itself and the proviso should be retained.  I think the motives of the committee were very proper, for this is a case where we are to legislate for the present as well as the future.  We have now to govern men, not children.  We have a government of men to support which will be costly and burdensome to the State, and we are called upon by the exigencies of the case, until at least a certain time, to appropriate whatever funds may be appropriated by the General Government, to the support of our State Government.  I do not think the school fund is needed particularly at the present period.  There are but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Does the gentleman propose that we, who have children, shall wait until he and all others who have none shall procure such appendages?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  Not at all, sir.  But I do not think such a fund as this is necessary to support one or two children who may be in each district.  I am in favor of public education as much as any man upon this floor.  I think that the Committee, in view of the number of children which we shall have here in the course of time, have very properly placed the whole fund at the disposal of the common schools; but I make this amendment so that the Legislature, until that period, shall have the right to appropriate to the exigencies of the Government whatever fund may not be necessary for school purposes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment of Mr. Jones, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the motion of Mr. Botts to strike out the proviso, and it was decided in the affirmative by ayes 18, noes 17.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the section as amended, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 3d section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  The Legislature shall provide for a system of common schools, by which a school shall be kept up and supported in each district at least three months in every year; and any school district neglecting to keep up and support such a school may be deprived of its proportion of the public fund during such neglect.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS moved to insert the word "six" instead of "three," so as to read "six months in every year."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN hoped the motion would not prevail.  The limit of three months was put in to meet a defective system in the management of the school fund in some of the States.  The school fund arising from the 16th section has been entirely squandered and lost, from a want of a proper administration of the fund.  If you say six months, it might be rendered impracticable to keep up the system.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I hope, Mr. Chairman, that the amendment will be adopted, for I know, sir, from experience, that the people will not go beyond whatever we adopt in the Constitution.  In several States of the Union this provision is adopted, requiring the schools to be kept up three months in the year.  Nine months in the year they are idle.  If there is a probability of our having a fund entirely too large, let us have schools to dispose of that fund nine months in the year.  The people will not go beyond what we require them to do.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I trust this amendment will not be adopted, for I conceive that three months is sufficient for all purposes here.  This is a new country; many of our townships will be unable, at first, to keep up a school for a longer term.  It seems to me, sir, that it would operate unjustly on them.  In a large portion of the old States, where they have become settled and permanent, three months is all that is required.  Gentlemen need not fear but that the Legislature will provide that the whole fund shall be appropriated to its legitimate object; but if you require schools to be kept up at least three months, that will answer every purpose.  If you go farther than this, thinly populated townships will be unable to support a school for a length of time without drawing the money from their own pockets.  Many a township would have but two children.  Much of the country south of this is laid off in large ranches.  The residents of these ranches cannot, at first, support schools without great expense; and I fear, if we place such a restriction upon them as this, they will give up the school system altogether.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  How will this operate hard upon them?  They are to keep up a school provided the Legislaiure furnish the means to enable them to do it.  If the Legislature does not provide the means, then of course, if they have schools, they must defray the expense themselves.  But, by this article, the Legislature is to provide the means; and, if it does not do so, the people are not obliged to keep up a school.  We propose to establish a system of schools which requires that a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  The manner in which the Legislature provides the means is this: they sell lands in each district to keep up the system.  In every township, they have two sections.  Heretofore, it has been the practice of Congress to give a section in every alternate township.  When a Territorial Government was established over Oregon, some able men contended for four sections for each township, and they succeeded in getting two for each township.  I will read an eloquent extract from the report of the Secretary of the Treasury (Mr. Walker) on this subject:</P>
196.sgm:<P>These townships will have two sections.  I do not think it is right that these school sections should lose the privilege of the fund arising out of their own neighborhood.  I think it is very important that it should remain as it is, and not be subjected to the discretion of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment of Mr. Hastings, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the 3d section, as reported, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 4th section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  The clear proceeds of all the fines collected in the several counties, for any breach of the penal laws, shall be exclusively applied in the several counties in which said money is paid or fine collected among the several school districts of said counties, in the proportion of the number of inhabitants in each district, to the support of common schools, or the establishment of libraries, as the Legislature shall from time to time provide by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL moved to amend by striking out the word "inhabitants," and inserting the word "children."  There might be a district with inhabitants, but without a child in it, and there might be another composed entirely of families.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS reminded the gentleman that it sometimes occurred that grown-up men wanted education as much as children.  He hoped the amendment would not prevail.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE said it seemed to him that the fund collected throughout the State should be distributed in proportion to the number of children in each district; that fines and penalties arising from breaches of the law should be paid to the school commissioner, who should have supervision of the whole system of education, and whose duty it should be to regulate the proper appropriation of these funds.  This section provides that these funds shall be distributed in a district when the wants of that district may require it.  This has been the case in Kentucky and other States.  Each district should be allowed a proper proportion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT moved to strike out the 3d section altogether, with a view of offering a substitute.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided that the motion would not now be in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT said his substitute was to this effect: that this fund arising from the proceeds of fines, as herein stated, shall be appropriated for institutions of public charity--for the support of one or more hospitals.  He thought this was a much better channel to turn it into than that proposed.  He knew of no country where there was likely to be a greater amount of suffering than in this, from sickness and distitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said he would vote against the amendment of the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. McDougal,) for this reason, that the provision of the committee was a much simpler, and came to exactly the same thing.  When you have number of inhabitants you have a number of children.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the adoption of the 3d section, as reported--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT said he would simply state that, if all the members had seen as much as he had of the suffering condition of people in this country from the want of some charitable institution, they would see the necessity of the article which he had suggested.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN hoped such a proposition would not prevail.  The establishment of hospitals was a matter that required a large amount of money.  He appealed to every lawyer whether the nett proceeds arising from fines amounted to much.  This was a small fund, which, when added to the immense school fund, might be useful in forming libraries.  The Legislature should have the power to establish hospitals; but let the members of this Convention not attempt to do a thing which it would be impossible to accomplish with so small a fund as that collected from fines.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT admitted that it was but a small fund; but he expected to get other means from other sources.  By getting this it would not exclude every other resource.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD said: In regard to the amount to be expected from this source, the Legislature will establish penalties for the infraction of any of its laws.  It is in their discretion, instead of punishing by imprisonment, to punish by fines.  The revenue derived from fines for the next five years will, I think, be very large.  Therefore I differ in toto from the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin.)  It is frequently left to the discretion of juries to punish by fine <HI REND="italics">and</HI>
196.sgm: imprisonment, or by fine <HI REND="italics">or</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  In reference to striking out this article, I would like to have it stricken out, but not for the same reason.  I think it is perfectly useless, either for school purposes or hospital purposes.  No revenue can be derived from this source.  To draw upon criminals for charitable purposes seems to me a course which we ought not to pursue.  If we depend upon that for our schools, we will have none; and the same objection applies to hospitals.  Those who violate laws are generally men who care but little about fines; they are persons who seldom have the means to pay fines.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  The remarks of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Ord,) although I do not concur in the object, have brought my mind to this conclusion: that punishment by fine will bring a very large fund.  With all my anxiety, which is as great as that of any gentleman on this floor, for the support of common schools, and my desire to furnish a munificent fund for that purpose, still may it not be inexpedient to limit a fund, which may be very large, to that particular purpose.  No person knows how large it may be.  I am perfectly willing that it should be exclusively devoted to the support of schools when the necessities of the country require it; but, when no such necessity exists, I think the surplus should be placed at the disposal of the Legislature, to meet the wants of any other department of the Government that may require it.  I am in favor of devoting it to educational purposes, when the wants of the community demand it; but, before that necessity exists, the Legislature should not be prohibited from appropriating it to meet such exigencies as may arise from the want of sufficient revenue for the support of the Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  The proposition of the gentleman from San Joaquin (Mr. Wozencraft) infringes upon a principle which I have frequently avowed in this Convention.  I do conceive, sir, that there is no subject that more appropriately comes within the province of the Legislature than that of public charity.  I have uniformly voted against all these directions to the Legislature as to what they shall do with the different subjects that come under the general head of charity or morality.  I propose to give the Legislature power to legislate upon them untrammelled, because it better represents the feelings and wishes of the people on these local subjects.  It is a body coming fresh from the people, and it is to be supposed that it understands their desires and necessities.  It is only upon some great and absorbing subject, such as education, that I will consent to lay down rules for the Legislature.  I am not willing to prescribe what it shall do on the subject of roads, asylums, or hospitals.  As to the clause under consideration, I think there is reason in the roasting of eggs.  I think we have already carried this subject of appropriations far enough.  We have made a most munificent appropriation, if the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood) be right in his notions of the mineral wealth of that portion of the country; an appropriation beyond example.  There are other expenses of the Government to be provided for.  Let us leave some remnant of the income of the State to meet these expenses.  Gentlemen here seem to think that no person commits crime but very poor people, who are unable to pay their fines.  Crime, sir, is not confined to the poorer classes.  I deny the doctrine that persons of wealth commit no offences against the law.  They are no more moral than other people.  This fund may be very large.  I would leave it at the disposition of the Legislature, having already sufficiently restricted that body in regard to the school fund.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on striking out the 4th section, and it was decided in the affirmative by ayes 17, noes 11.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE moved the following, in place of the section just rejected:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  All funds collected from any source, intended for purposes of education, shall be paid into the educational fund, and shall be appropriated throughout the State, according to its number of children, in such manner as may be directed by law.  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I hope no such provision will be incorporated in this Constitution.  It goes directly in the teeth of the grant made by Congress of those school lands.  The whole system of education would be changed.  Every thing is to go into this great maelstroom, when we ought to have district school funds.  Congress appropriates certain lands in certain townships for the purpose of school funds in these townships.  Let the Legislature be restricted, in not imposing upon weak townships for the benefit of rich ones.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  It does seem to me the gentleman's last remark is very inapplicable to the present question.  I propose here to put all the wealth of the rich <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  The gentlemen is disingenuous in his remarks in regard to what I said.  He talks about one township that is worthless and the adjoining one rich.  He takes the fund arising from a mineral district and gives it to another.  Where are the children in this country?  In the towns and cities.  The gentleman's own district, Sonoma, will probably have little or no school lands, because the lands there are covered by private claims.  The whole of his system is wrong.  The school fund that we will have here is in that section of the country that is now unsettled.  We ought to hold out inducements to people to settle in these unsettled districts.  If we get what we are entitled to from Congress, these school sections will amount to millions of acres.  I hope the gentleman's proposition will be rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  If the proposed section pass it annuls all the preceding sections of the report.  It entirely everthrows the whole system embodied in the report.  It would be necessary to refer the subject back to the committee.  Moreover, I consider it in direct conflict with the laws of Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  I beg the House to listen to the preceding section, and see if my proposition is at all inconsistent with it.  [Here Mr. Semple compared the two in juxta-position.]  It seems to me that there is no contradiction here.  The proposition which I make carries out the object of that provision.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I shall oppose the proposition of the gentleman from Sonoma, (Mr. Semple.)  In the State of Wisconsin this subject has been agitated more than all others.  I tell the gentleman, and every member of this House, that it is necessary there should be in each county a county system of schools.  I am opposed to placing this immense fund in the hands of any one man.  We must have a county system applicable to that county.  It is the case in Wisconsin and all the new States.  The general Superintendent has the general supervision; but all the funds arising in the county are under the control of the county officers, who are at their own homes, and are interested in the legitimate and proper disposition of these funds.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I think the gentleman's system is in total violation of the established rules in the Atlantic States.  I will not detain the House by any remarks, for I conceive the objections to be perfectly evident.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  The gentleman from San Luis Obispo (Mr. Tefft) objects because this fund, he says, is to be appropriated by one individual.  If he will examine the proposition he will find that the fund is to be appropriated exclusively by the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed section, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The fifth section was then adopted without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>5.  The Legislature shall take measures for the protection, improvement, or other disposition of such lands as have been or may hereafter be granted by the United States, or by any person or persons, to this State, for the use of a University; and the funds accruing from the rents or sale of such lands, or from any other source, for the purpose aforesaid, shall be and remain a permanent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE offered an additional section, making a donation of certain lands for educational purposes, in the vicinity of the town of Benicia.  He observed that, as there appeared to be some objection to introducing names in the Constitution, he would so amend his proposition as to leave out the names of the owners of these lands.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the adoption of the additional section proposed--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE further remarked that the original proprietors of these lands were now present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK begged leave to correct the gentleman.  The original proprietors were a company of Mexican soldiers.  He presumed they were not present now.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE explained the nature of the donation.  He did not ask any appropriation whatever out of the treasury.  It was merely a private donation for educational purposes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL remarked that the gentleman from Benicia (Mr. Semple) was a great public benefactor.  He had devoted a great deal of time and incurred much expense in building up the town of Benicia, and making a ferry there for the accommodation of the public.  It had been a source of great expense to him, and now he asked that the Government of California should bear a part of it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I do not doubt that the motives of the gentleman (Mr. Semple) are perfectly disinterested; but I think he has mistaken the means of arriving at a good object.  It seems to me that the gentleman had as well make his will at once, bestow these lands, and ask this Convention to act as a court of record.  If the House will observe, the arrangement which he desires to make is already provided for in the last clause which has been adopted.  The gentleman will be one of these donors whom the last clause takes care of.  But I rise principally to call attention to a very important point connected with this proposition.  It may produce a result which perhaps the gentleman does not intend.  The salemn sanction of this House is given to a claim that may be a very doubtful one.  I do not believe this is the object for which these gentlemen come here, and seek to obtain the sanction of this House; but I am not prepared to say that they have an inalienable and inherent right to these lands.  I have not looked into the question.  It may be that they have no title at all.  I hope the gentleman will reconsider his proposition and take it back.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  I will take the gentleman's advice, and withdraw the proposition.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion the Committee then rose, reported progress, and had leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House took a recess until half past 3 o'clock P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, HALF PAST 3 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHANNON, (the President not being present,) Mr. F.J. LIPPITT took the Chair temporarily.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT introduced the following, and on his motion it was referred to the Committee of the Whole, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Public Charities</HI>
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196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, the House then went into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Lippitt in the Chair, on the report of the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF THE WHOLE.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY moved that the article on the Judiciary be taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK was of opinion that the proper course would be to take up the majority report, and then decide the question as to which report should be acted upon; which would be best arrived at by a motion to strike out the first section of the majority report, and insert the first section of the minority report.  To take up the minority report first and consider it would be very unfair, and would be doing injustice to the Committee.  That minority report had never been submitted to the Committee, and the majority report had received the sanction of all the members except one.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY had no objection to taking that course.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT rose to a question of order.  The motion of the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood) was to go into Committee of the Whole on the report of the Committee on the Constitution--consequently that report must have precedence of all others.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The majority report was then taken up and read, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee appointed to report "a plan or a part of a plan of a State Constitution," having had the same under consideration, respectfully further report the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>ARTICLE V. -- <HI REND="italics">Judicial Department</HI>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  There shall be a Supreme Court, having general jurisdiction in law and equity.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  This Court shall consist of four judges, each of whom shall be elected at the general election by the qualified electors of the judicial district in which he resides, provided that the Legislature shall, at its first session, elect the judges of the Supreme Court by joint vote of both Houses.  These judges shall hold their office for the term of four years.  On the organization of the court, the judges shall be classified by lot, so that one shall go out of office every year.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  The State shall be divided into four judicial districts, in each of which circuit courts shall be held at stated periods by one of the judges of the Supreme Court.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  There shall be a Court of Appeals formed of any three of the judges of the Supreme Court; but no judge shall sit in the Court of Appeals in any case upon which he has given a judicial opinion in the Circuit Court.  In case of the absence or disability of any of the judges of the Supreme Court from the Court of Appeals, their places shall be supplied in the manner to be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  The Legislature shall have power to increase the number of judges of the Supreme Court, and the number of judicial districts; and whenever it shall deem expedient, it may provide by law for the separation of the Court of Appeals from the Circuit Court, and for the election of the circuit judges by the qualified electors of each judicial district.  And when such separation shall be made, the Court of Appeals shall consist of three judges, who shall be elected by the qualified electors of the whole State.  They shall hold their office for the term of six years, and be so classified that one shall go out of office every two years; and when such separation is made, the circuit judges shall also hold their office for the term of six years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 6.  The Supreme Court shall have the power to issue all writs and processes necessary to do justice to parties, and exercise a supervisory control, under such regulations as may be prescribed by law, over all inferior judicial tribunals, and the judges of the Supreme Court shall be conservators of the peace throughout the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  The Legislature shall provide for clerks of the Court of Appeals and Circuit Courts, and shall fix by law their duties and compensations.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  There shall be elected in each of the organized counties of this State one county judge, who shall hold his office for four years.  He shall hold the County Court and perform the duties of surrogate or probate judge.  The county judge, with two justices of the peace, to be designated according to law, shall hold courts of sessions with such criminal jurisdiction as the Legislature shall prescribe, and shall perform such other duties as shall be required by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  The County Court shall have jurisdiction in cases arising in justices' courts, and in special cases, as the Legislature may prescribe, but shall have no original civil jurisdiction, except in such special cases.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 10.  In the temporary absence or disability of the county judge, his place in criminal cases shall be supplied by the senior justice of the peace of the county.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Sec. 11.  The times and places of holding the terms of the Court of Appeals, and of the general and special terms of the Circuit Court, within the several districts, and of the Courts of Oyer and Terminer, shall be provided for by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  No judicial officer, except justices of the peace, shall receive to his own use any fees or perquisites of office.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 13.  The Legislature may authorize the judgment decrees and decisions of any local and inferior court of record of civil jurisdiction, established in a city, to be removed directly into the Court of Appeals.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  The Legislature shall provide for the speedy publication of all statute laws, and of such judicial decisions, as it may deem expedient, and all laws and judicial decisions shall be free for publication by any person.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 15.  Tribunals for conciliation may be established with such powers and duties as may be prescribed by law; but such tribunals shall have no power to render judgment, to be obligatory on the parties, except they voluntarily submit their matters in difference, and agree to abide the judgment, or assent thereto in the presence of such tribunal, in such cases as shall be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  The Legislature shall determine the number of justices of the peace to be elected in each county, city, town, and incorporated village in the State, and fix by law their power, duties, and responsibilities.  It shall also determine in what cases appeals may be made from the Justices' Courts to the County Court.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 17.  The judges of the Supreme and District Courts shall severally, at stated times during their continuance in office, receive for their services a compensation to be paid out of the treasury, which shall not be increased or diminshed during the term for which they shall have been elected.  The county judges shall also, severally, at stated times, receive for their services a compensation to be paid out of the county treasury of their several counties, which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they shall been elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 18.  The supreme and district judges shall be ineligible to any other office during the term for which they shall have been elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 19.  The style of process shall be: "The people of the State of California," and all prosecutions shall be conducted in the name and by authority of the same.</P>
196.sgm:<P>All of which is respectfully submitted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MYRON NORTON, <HI REND="italics">Chairman</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The minority report was then read.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first section of the report of the Committee being under consideration, Mr. ORD offered a substitute for the whole report, which was read.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD said he offered this substitute because he thought the judicial system proposed by the Committee was unsuited to the wants and the condition of the people of California.  His first objection was that it was too complicated.  There were four tribunals proposed by the Committee: 1st, the Supreme Court; 2d, the Circuit Court; 3d, the County Court; 4th, the Magistrates' Court.  He regarded that as a serious objection.  Another objection: He thought the system an expensive one; that it would be found, when put in practice, extremely costly.  A third objection was, that it would give rise to delays in the administration of justice--delays which he was sure every citizen of California was anxious to avoid.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I think it well to consider the points at issue between the several reports.  Let us bring the matter down to a single point, and confine the debate to that issue--the difference between the majority and minority reports.  The same holds good in regard to the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Ord.)  The Committee had in view to report to this house, if possible, a judicial system, which should be entirely adequate to the present wants of California--simple and economical, at the same time possessed of express powers which would enable it, without any change of the Constitution, to meet the prospective wants of the people of California.  We hope we have succeeded in presenting to the house such a judicial system.  I believe there is an honest difference of opinion in regard to the chief point at issue.  In fact, with that exception, the two systems are nearly identical.  They only differ in regard to the number of officers and judges.  We want a judicial system which is adequate to meet the present wants of California, combining simplicity and economy, and which can be so altered at any time as to meet the future wants of the community.  The question is, whether we shall adopt a system which has less officers, fewer judges, and which is to be carried out afterwards when circumstances may require a change, or one which has a greater number of officers, will cost more, and cannot be changed.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON proposed to amend that section by inserting: "The Legislature may also establish such municipal and other inferior courts as may be deemed necessary."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I accept the amendment.  The phrase municipal and other inferior courts pleases me.  I was about to remark upon the economy of this system.  The objection on that point, in regard to the system proposed by the majority, is this: Judges from the north and south are to be convened at the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY.  I hope the substitute of the gentleman from San Jose (Mr. Dimmick) will be adopted, for I am clearly of opinion that it is a more advantageous plan than that reported by the majority.  I consider it, as the gentleman remarks, of the highest importance that, in the organization of this new State, our judiciary should be fixed and permanent; that we may know what to rely upon in bringing our suits.  It has been my fortune, or misfortune, to see the practice under the new Constitution of the State of New York.  From June to December we had more conflicts of decision in the Supreme Court, (which was precisely organized like this, with the exception that it was extended a little further, having eight circuits,) in that short space of time, more conflicts of decision than we had for years and years before, under the old system, where there were separate judges for the different courts.  I think the proposition of the gentleman from San Jose is more feasible and advantageous in every respect, and I shall vote for its adoption.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  We are considering the first section of the report of the Committee.  I am quite at a loss to vote.  If I vote for the substitute of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Ord,) which, as I heard it read, struck very favorably upon my ear, under the rules of this House, it is not open for amendment.  I would like that proposition with certain amendments.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD.  I should be pleased to receive amendments.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that, according to the rules, amendments could not be made to it at this time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE moved that the Committee suspend the rules, and take up all three propositions at once.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>A discussion here arose as to the rules, in which various points of order were raised, but without coming to any decision.  The Committee, on motion, rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then took a recess till 8 o'clock P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 8 O'CLOCK P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>He moved this for the purpose of uniting those different propositions, and so concentrating the best points of each, as to have a system reported to the House which would combine these advantages, and be liable to none of the objections urged against them now.  He thought this might be the means of facilitating the action of the House, and would probably prevent much confusion and avoid a long debate, which seemed likely to arise if the propositions now before the House were all taken up and discussed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I was about submitting a proposition of the same kind.  My views differ slightly from those of my colleague.  I move to amend his resolution so that instead of a committee of five we make a committee of ten, to be composed of the lawyers of this House.  There is a fine large room below in which they can discuss all the legal technicalities, settle all the knotty points, and then bring in something upon which we can act without further difficulty.  I am always in favor of letting the lawyers fight these abstruse points alone.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I cannot conceive what advantage we are to derive from this proposition.  The members of this committee may adhere to the different plans, and we may have as much confusion and trouble as ever.  For my part, unless the gentleman shows me some better grounds for creating such a committee, I shall go for the House fighting this battle themselves.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I have great respect for the gentleman's (Mr. Crosby's) opinions, but I do not think it advisable to appoint this committee.  Five lawyers have already had this subject in hand.  I think the House will be better able to settle it than any committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  This whole subject was before the Committee of twenty.  The result is the different system presented.  Finally, this majority report was agreed to by all the members except one.  I think the House had better go on and determine on these reports.  If we appoint the committee it will require a delay of at least a day before we can proceed with the consideration of this subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I tell you what was done in the Convention that formed the Constitution of the United States.  Members of the Convention offered resolutions on the subject, which were voted upon, expressive of the sense of the House.  Many sets of resolutions were offered in this way, and after the subject had been fully debated, it was referred back to a Committee.  After we have seen these various propositions, they might be referred back to the Committee, which might then make such a report as they had reason to believe would meet the sanction of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the resolution, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. SHANNON in the Chair, on the report of the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF THE WHOLE.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The article on the Judiciary being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said: My choice lies between the first section of the minority report and the first section of the report of the Committee.  I shall detain the House but a few moments in stating my views--raising my objections upon each particular paragraph as it comes up for consideration.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I rise to a point of order.  My understanding is, that the first section alone is under consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I believe the point of order which the gentleman is about to raise is, that the gentleman from Monterey is about to be out of order.  Mr. Chairman, it is to exactly that first section that I am about to object; and if the gentleman had only waited, I would have told him, in my own poor way, the reasons why I prefer the first section of the minority report in lieu of it.  It will not do for gentlemen to attempt to trammel us within a narrow limit of debate.  It is necessary, in discussing this subject, that I should refer to other parts of the report.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  If the gentleman will give way, I will offer a suggestion by which I think the question may be opened entirely.  It seems to me that the whole difficulty turns upon a single point.  If the decision of the House is to strike out the fourth section of the majority report, with a view to adopting the minority report, the system falls, because that is the section combining the Supreme and District Courts.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I am satisfied of one fact, that we cannot expedite business by debate.  I move now that the Committee rise, in order that an appointment may be made of five or six persons by the Chair for the purpose of perfecting a plan to be reported to this House immediately.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee then rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. BOTTS, the Secretary was directed to furnish each member with a copy of the judiciary system offered by the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Ord.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY suggested that the proposition of the gentleman from San Joaquin was the same as he had offered in the early part of the evening.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I am satisfied that the movement is made for a very laudable object--that of bringing these three systems proposed together in one report; but I do not believe, from what experience I have had in committee, that any special committee can produce a report which can prevent more discussion than what we will have on the propositions now before the House.  I have made up my mind in regard to the matter myself, and after this discussion I think every gentleman will be prepared to make up his mind and vote.  After looking the ground carefully over, I am satisfied that there can be no compromise in the matter; that the House, after a full and free discussion, must choose between the propositions.  I am opposed therefore to its going into any committee.  I know that discussion is to be had, and that many gentleman who are not lawyers have doubts on their minds in regard to which of these propositions should be adopted; but I think they will have the same doubts if this new committe brings in a proposition.  The same views will then be advanced that are now advanced.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  It is my opinion that this matter will be greatly facilitated by the appointment of a committee.  What is now before the House is an undigested medley of propositions.  We find the two systems, as reported, confused.  That of the minority would be a very good one had they continued it, but they have not thought proper to continue it; they have left off at a certain point and taken up the majority report.  From whatever Constitution that system was taken, I think it would have our favor if they had gone through with it.  A special committee could easily digest this matter, and make a report to the House which I have no doubt would be generally approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I am in favor of referring it back to the Committee on the Constitution, with instructions.  The sense of the House in relation to these different propositions can be given in the instructions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved that a committee be appointed, with instructions to report in favor of three courts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I cannot consent to vote for any such instructions, knowing the condition of this country and the difficulty of getting witnesses and jurors far from home.  I would not be in favor of trying criminal cases, which under the instructions must be tried in a District Court, in the mining districts of this State.  They would have to go from fifty to two hundred miles; you could not get your witnesses that distance.  You must have a County Court near to the residence of these persons.  I am in favor of a County Court, which the gentleman would exclude.  When a murder or robbery is committed, if you wish to punish the criminal, you must have his trial where the witnesses against him will attend; but where the witnesses daily labor is one ounce, or sixteen dollars, you cannot get him to go any great distance to wait upon the court.  You must have, as near as possible, justice administered where the crime is committed.  Even all City Courts are excluded by his instructions, when most of the legal business will have to be performed in the City Courts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I think my friend from Sacramento founds his argument upon a false supposition; that is, that these District Courts will be held in one particular place, and cannot be held in any other place.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I would suggest this amendment: "There courts, and such other courts as the Legislature shall think proper to create."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I accept it.  These District Courts, Mr. President, are not necessarily held in one place alone, during the entire year.  A District Court in the district of San Joaquin would not be held at Stockton during the entire year; it would go to every one of the principal mines, and there would be a court there once or twice, or four times, during the year.  These witnesses whom the gentleman speaks of would be brought into that court at their own doors.  Would this County Court be open all the time?  Will the gentleman not give them particular terms?  Where is the difference in convenience.  Such is the object and intention of separating these courts.  It is to give the district judges sufficient time to hold their courts at all the different places in the district.  We have contended here, according to the report of the majority, that it is impossible for the district judge to do justice to his district and hold the Appellate Court.  I certainly cannot agree to the necessity of these County Courts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I move to go into Committee of the Whole on the judiciary bill; and upon that question I call for the yeas and nays.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I wish to call the attention of the House to this point.  It is proposed here to refer these three reports, as they are called, to a Select Committee, or back to the Committee on the Constitution.  I should think it would be very improper to refer it back to the Committee on the Constitution.  That Committee, with the Constitution of every State in the Union before it, has been at work three days on this report, and I think, when they have come to an almost unanimous decision, it would be altogether improper to send back the subject to them, and ask them to come to a reverse decision.  As to a Select Committee, if they make a report, does it exclude all these propositions before the House?  They would all be in order when this report comes in.  Instead of three reports to choose from we would then have four.  That Committee cannot take this subject into consideration, perfect a judicial system, and make their report in less than twenty-four hours and the same length of time will be required to make copies of it for the use of the members.  I really think the motion of the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin) ought to prevail; that we should go into Committee of the Whole, take this question up, and decide it to-night or to-morrow.  Otherwise, we certainly cannot get through until next week; and I do not believe we will be able to keep a quorum here beyond Tuesday.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I shall oppose referring this to a Select Committee.  I would suggest that we take all the various Constitutions and make such a Judiciary system from them as we please.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I believe, Mr. President, that I am inclined to make as much haste as any member of this House, and the object, the great object I have in referring this matter to a Select Committee, is to get them to examine more carefully than I could, from a casual reading in this House, a set of sections or articles that I believe to be valuable, and which I think would meet the wishes of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I ask for the reading of the motion; and I beg leave to say that I am utterly opposed to this being referred back to the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I have a good many reasons against giving these instructions.  I believe every county should pay its own criminal expenses; and that the proper court is the County Court.  I will not go into the reasons, for I think the House is prepared to vote on this question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  Before the vote is taken, I will simply give notice that, if the resolution now before the House is rejected, I shall offer another resolution, that the fifth article, as reported by the Committee on the Constitution, be referred back to the Committee, with instructions to remodel it so as to provide for the establishment of a Court of Appeals separate and distinct from the Circuit Court, and with certain other amendments.  I am satisfied with the report of the Committee as it stands, with the exception that the first four or five sections I conceive to be faulty, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Would it not be well to divide the question as to the appointment of this Committee and the instructions?</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the question before the House was on the appointment of a Select Committee of five.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken and decided in the negative, by ayes 16, noes 19.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT then moved his resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS wished to inquire what was the necessity of pursuing a course of this kind?  Could not the House amend the majority report in the manner suggested as well as the Committee?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD hoped the resolution would not be pressed.  It would not facilitate the action of the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES understood the gentlemen (Mr. Lippitt) that he was satisfied with the report of the Committee, except where it connected the two courts--at least with the first five sections.  He would ask him if he was satisfied with the 11th section.  Those who chose to vote for it might do so; but, so far as he was concerned, he could not sanction it.  He was in favor of no such section.  He was opposed to the whole system.  He moved to amend the resolution by instructing the Committee to report in favor of the establishment of three courts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT said this would defeat the very object he had in view.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the resolution was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole on the Judiciary Bill.</P>
196.sgm:<P>COMMITTEE OF THE WHOLE.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>I will not proceed further in discussing this question.  There are many reasons why I prefer the majority report to either of the reports in question.  I think its advantages go through the entire system.  It elects its clerks and officers, which is not provided for in at least one or perhaps both of the other plans presented to the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK, by permission of the House, made some amendments to his proposition.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I wish to state the reason of the vote which I shall give on these propositions.  I prefer, as a whole, the majority report of the Committee.  There are certainly sections proposed by the gentleman from San Jose (Mr. Dimmick) and the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Ord) which I would prefer, but I find my-self obliged to vote for some system as a whole.  I am compelled to select at once one of these three systems.  I am satisfied with the report of the Committee, with the single exception, that there is no Court of Appeals separate from the Circuit Court provided for.  I have already tested the opinion of the House on this matter, and I find they are not willing to instruct the Committee to provide for the separation.  For that reason, I shall vote against every proposition before the House in its present form.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I wish to know what would be the effect of rejecting the proposition of the gentleman from San Jose, (Mr. Dimmick.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the question would then come up on the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Ord.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY.  I hope there may be some compromise.  The principal question at issue is the propriety of a separate Supreme Court and District Court.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I offer this resolution as a test question:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the resolution was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the amendment of the gentleman from San Jose (Mr. Dimmick) was before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Some discussion took place here as to the order of reports.  Several propositions were made to facilitate the action of the House, when finally, without coming to any decision, the Committee rose and reported progress.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved that a Committee of three be appointed with instructions, in conformity with the resolution adopted in Committee of the Whole, to make the two courts separate, and to bring in a report on the different propositions modeled on that plan, by to-morrow morning at 12 o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL suggested a Committee of five instead of three.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD thought three would perform the business more expeditiously and with less discussion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the highest number, "five," and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A Committee of three was then appointed, consisting of Messrs. Norton, Dimmick, and Jones.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then adjourned till 10 o'clock to-morrow morning.</P>
196.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 26,1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by the Rev. S. H. Willey.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The journal of yesterday was read, amended, and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VALLEJO offered the following, which, being objected to, lies over for one day, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, from the Special Committee on the Judiciary, made a report; which was read and referred to the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. BOTTS in the Chair, on the report of the Select Committee on the Judiciary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was taken on the first and second sections of the report, and they were adopted without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The judicial power of this State shall be vested in a Supreme Court, in District Courts, in County Courts, and in Justices of the Peace.  The Legislature may also establish such municipal and other inferior courts as may be deemed necessary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The Supreme Court shall consist of a Chief Justice and two Associate Justices, any two of whom shall constitute a quorum.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the third section, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  The Justices of the Supreme Court shall be elected at the general election by the qualified electors of the State, and shall hold their offices for the term of six years, from the first day of January next after their election:  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS moved to amend by striking out the proviso.  He desired that the election of justices and other officers should be left to the people.  The people are as well qualified to judge of these officers as the Legislature.  Great abuse would be created by having the Legislature control this matter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  The Committee are as much in favor of the election of judges by the people as the gentleman.  I believe a great majority of the members of this House are in favor of leaving the election of these officers to the people.  But it is well known that, under the peculiar organization and condition of this country at present, it would be almost impossible at an election coming off as soon as the next election necessarily must, that the people could have time to ascertain and fix upon the best men to be elected as judges of the Supreme Court.  The people who are now resident in this country are to a great extent strangers to each other.  They hardly know their next door neighbors, and it is scarcely to be expected that, under such a state of things, they should be prepared so soon to elect the proper persons to these responsible offices.  The Legislature, it is but reasonable to suppose, will be composed of men acquainted with the wants of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the amendment was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section as reported was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The fourth section being under consideration, Mr. LIPPITT moved to insert after the word "thereof," and before the word "shall," the words "as well as all district and county judges;" which motion having passed, the section as amended was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO suggested that the jurisdiction of the Appellate Court should be limited to the sum of $200.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved a reconsideration of the vote on the adoption of the section, in order to test the sense of the House on the proposed limitation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I believe that according to parliamentary usage whenever a motion is made for reconsideration it is in order to go into the consideration of the whole question.  I would simply say, in relation to the amendment proposed, limiting cases to $200, that sometimes questions of the utmost importance--questions of the utmost difficulty--which have embarrassed the highest courts in our country, have turned upon a less amount than $200 or even $50.  I therefore do not think it would be advisable, on the whole, to limit the appellate jurisdiction of the highest court to any amount whatever.  Cases have occurred, and no doubt will occur again, where questions involving principles of the utmost importance have come up upon a paltry matter in amount, involving only ten or twenty dollars.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO.  Among many of the reasons which I have for proposing the amendment, the principal one is, that very often there are rich persons who do not care so much about the decision of the case on account of the amount involved in it, but who make use of their wealth to carry out their caprices; and who thereby compel these judges, who ought to be occupied in higher matters, to attend to these trivial disputes, merely to gratify the whims and caprices of certain men who may be possessed of property.  If the door is left open to appeal in this way, there would be no end to it.  I have known persons to appeal merely on the subject of a calf, and send it up to the Supreme Court of Mexico, not on account of the value of the article, but to gratify a malicious feeling towards the opposite party.  I therefore desire that there shall be some limitation; the judgements will then be properly attended to.  It is very true that often great principles are involved in very small amounts; but I do not consider that this tribunal has the deciding of principles.  Its province is to decide the law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  In regard to the caprices of men, I would remark that there is a check in the costs.  Under any proper system of laws, the costs are thrown upon the appealing parties.  That will operate as a very powerful check in preventing any abuse of the right of appeal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question on the reconsideration of the vote adopting the fourth section was then taken, and decided in the affirmative, by ayes 15, nays 13.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the fourth section, as amended,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO moved to amend by inserting after the word "cases" and before the word "in," the words "where the matter in dispute exceeds $200."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I am in favor of the proposed amendment.  I do not believe that cases, however small in importance or sum, should be brought before the Supreme Court; that sums of five, ten, or fifty dollars, which the desire of litigation might induce any individual to bring before the Supreme Court, should occupy its time and attention.  We all know that there are individuals in a community who care <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I am decidedly opposed to the amendment for two reasons.  The first I have already stated--that all cases under $200 are not petty cases.  There are many cases under that sum which involve most important principles, and require the highest legal wisdom of the country to settle.  The second reason is, that it will work oppressively upon the poor if this amendment is adopted.  They will bring the great mass of suits in cases under $200; it is the poor who will be the litigants.  Then, sir, it this amendment is adopted, you allow the rich man, in all his suits, to go before the highest tribunal; to avail himself of the highest legal wisdom of the land.  At the same time, you tell the poor man he shall have the benefit of only one Court of Appeals; that he shall not have the benefit of any higher tribunal than the District Court.  It is taken for granted that the ultimate Court of Appeals is a wiser, and will decide more correctly than the inferior courts.  Our system, which we are about to establish, supposes that as a principle.  I contend, therefore, that the poor have just as much right to carry up their disputes, and have them settled by the most competent tribunals, as the richest man in the land.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I am in favor of all of this section except the latter part.  The part that my friend from San Francisco (Mr. Lippitt) objects to, I am decidedly in favor of, for the very fact that it stops all unnecessary litigation, and prevents the lawyers of the county, who wish to figure in the Supreme Court, from bringing in every petty case that may occur.  I am also opposed to that part of the amendment that provides for an appeal of criminal cases to the Supreme Court.  If we adopt that system, we may take it for granted that every case will go to the Supreme Court.  Who would suffer himself to be hung in thirty days when he has an opportunity of going to a higher court, with the prospect of a different decision?  The State is at the expense of keeping this individual until his case can be brought into the Supreme Court and decided by that tribunal.  I am in favor of having a fair trial before a jury; and whenever they have decided the case, if they say hang him, then hang him in thirty days, and do not give him an opportunity to escape.  I do not desire that men shall get clear, after they have been found guilty before a jury of their peers, by any quibble of the law.  I wish to see them justly tried, and if found guilty, then justly and properly punished.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I am utterly surprised to hear such a sentiment advanced by my colleague.  He denies to a man who may have been convicted because some techinal point may have compelled the conviction, and who may be as innocent as he who suffered on the cross, the privilege of appearing before a higher tribunal!  Public sentiment throughout the world is gaining ground against punishment by death.  Although I do not go that far, yet I am for affording an innocent man the last possible chance of preserving his life.  If we, upon our Constitution, place the provision that a man shall not have the chance to go to a higher tribunal, what will be the common opinion of the world?  That we are more barbarous than the heathen.  I say, sir, if a man has a chance for his life, take it not away from him.  If he is innocent, and can prove it, or if the court has wrongly construed, through prejudice or any other cause, the law, give him a chance to go <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I am decidedly opposed to the first part of the amendment.  I am willing to allow appeals in criminal cases where they amount to felony.  That, I think, should be provided for.  The argument of the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood) shows that such should be the case.  I am opposed to the remainder of the amendment upon the grounds given by my colleague, (Mr. Lippitt,) and also upon another ground.  It has been stated that this right of appeal is liable to abuse; that men of wealth would carry cases to the highest tribunal, where the poor could not go.  I do not consider this argument to be well founded.  If a decision in the court below is radically right, the party against whom the decision is made, no matter what may be his wealth, if he goes to the highest tribunal of the land, has the case again decided against him.  The cost is thus thrown upon him, and he bears the whole burden of the suit.  It is he who is injured, and not the poor man.  But, sir, if a case is decided by the court below wrongfully, no matter whether against the rich man or the poor man, he should have the right to go to the highest tribunal to get justice, if he cannot get it below.  If he gets a wrong decision against him in a matter not amounting to $200, he should have the same right to go to a higher tribunal and have that decision reversed, as he would if it amounted to more than $200.  He should have the right in all cases--the poor man as well as the rich.  If he is aggrieved in one court, his rights should be protected in another.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I shall feel myself compelled to oppose the amendment as it now stands, although having on a former occasion opposed the infliction of death as a punishment for crime, I would of course here favor any measure that would have that effect.  But the other portions of the amendment I cannot support.  It strikes fatally at another unfortunate class of men--the poor.  By this provision, the poor are deprived of the privilege of maintaining their interests to the same extent that the rich are.  Let us suppose a case.  The amount involved is $199; the parties are both poor.  The court is prejudiced, and decides against the party in favor of whom the decision should have been given.  A friend advises the injured party to appeal.  He replies that he cannot, because the Constitution of the State prohibits him.  But his friend is a rich man, and proposes to advance the money--still the Constitution interferes.  This amendment ought not to prevail for another reason.  So far from encouraging litigation, the section, as it stands, allowing the right of appeal in all cases, avoids that result.  We suppose that a case is pending in court; it is decided unjustly and cannot be appealed.  Now, this same question involves, perhaps, the interests of fifty men in the community, who cannot appeal their cases.  If these parties could come forward and say to the parties whose suit is in court, let this case go up; we will pay part of the expense in order to settle a great principle by which we are all willing to abide.  Your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO.  No doubt this question is a very difficult one to determine.  The gentleman has stated various examples.  Now I propose, in a contra position, to state one or two others of a different kind.  It is said that this provision operates unjustly on the poor--that they cannot appeal, because they have not the means--that the rich man can carry his case to the highest tribunal, while the poor man is denied that privilege.  There are many classes of men who have money, but who have not the capacity to carry on their affairs as they ought.  These classes the lawyers pounce upon like vultures upon dead bodies; and although the lawyers know they cannot succeed in their suits, they urge them to go on.  This is one reason why I offer the amendment.  I think these classes require protection from the ingeunity of men who derive their income from the litigation which they are enabled to produce.  What do they care how long the suit lasts, or what it will cost, provided they make money by it.  There are in California a great many persons who are not in want of money, but who are totally unacquainted with the technicalities of the law, and have not sufficient sagacity to guard against the abuses to which this right of appeal in petty cases would subject them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  The whole scope of the gentleman's argument seems to be that certain classes in California, either poor men or ignorant men, would be left open to the ingenuity of dishonest lawyers.  I can only say that it is perfectly impracticable, by any legislation, or any amendment, or any Constitution, to guard clients against that class of men.  It would puzzle more than a Yankee legislator to do it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I admit there is a great deal of sagacity in that class of men, and that it requires considerable wisdom to guard against them--particularly when they are engaged in forming the organic law of the State.  I fully agree with the gentleman from Santa Barbara, (Mr. Noriego,) in his opinion.  I have seen cases carried to the Supreme Court under the amount of eight or ten dollars, and carried on till the costs reached a thousand dollars.  The poor man is often persuaded to take an appeal, and finally is mulcted in the costs, and ruined forever.  I go for the amendment, with the exception of the provision which I objected to little while ago; with respect to appeals in criminal cases, where the parties have been duly tried and found guilty.  I think the best way is to hang them.  It will be the most effectual way of preventing them from escaping.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  In order to get a direct vote on this subject, if it is susceptible of division, I call for a division.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I have only to remark that the most frequent cases under $200 are cases of wages, the hire of servants and laborers.  The next most frequent cases are small debts due persons in commercial business.  If you give two courts an appellate jurisdiction over cases of this kind, there will be an immense delay in the collection of debts.  The poor man goes to work for the rich man, who does not pay; the poor man carries his case up; the rich man is able to pay the expense, and will carry it to any extent.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  The poor man need not appeal unless he chooses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BROWN.  It frequently happens that the poor man is compelled to follow the rich man, if he cannot get justice in any other way.  The argument of the gentleman from Santa Barbara (Mr. Noriego) is excellent, and I fully concur with him on this subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD.  I will state the result of my experience.  It probably differs from that of the two lawyers on the other side of the House--that nine-tenths of the cases under two hundred dollars are brought by poor men.  They are the plaintiffs; they go to the court and seek redress; and if you give the right of appeal in all cases, whatever the amount in controversy, the rich man can take his appeal; he can keep the poor man out of his wages until it is decided by the Supreme Court.  It may cost the poor man ten times the amount of the original <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  My experience is just the reverse.  It is true that it is the poor man who is under the necessity of instituting suit as a general thing--perhaps for compensation for his daily labor; but what is the result if you deprive him of the right of appeal.  He enters his suit in the County Court, if you please, against an immensely wealthy man.  This court is probably under the immediate influence of wealthy men, and without intending injustice to the poor man, they decide the case against him.  The rich man's influence operates almost unconsciously upon the members of the court.  He is a prominent man in the county, and his name has a controlling power over the County and Circuit Courts.  But give the poor man the privilege of going further, and he goes to a Court that is beyond the influence of the wealthy man.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  My own professional experience certainly confirms the view just stated to the House.  It is a new view, and a very strong one.  I have always found that the influence of the poor man is much greater in the higher than in the lower courts.  The relative influence of the rich and poor differs in the lower courts.  In the highest tribunals there is no difference made between them, in ordinary cases.  If the amendment is adopted, I think that the operation of it will be rather against the poor than the rich.  The whole amendment amounts, as I view it to this: for all time to come, as long as this Constitution lasts, it prohibits the application of the best talent and fairest judgment to all disputes under $200.  It tells the poor that they shall not enjoy the advantages, as long as this Constitution endures, of the best law and justice, but must take up with the second rate.  I shall therefore vote against the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  Does the gentleman remember that these persons have a right to juries in the first court and second court.  If twelve of their peers decide against them, it is not probable that injustice will be done them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I ask the gentleman who it is that introduces and shuts out testimony before these twelve men.  It is the justice of the peace.  He decides what testimony shall be introduced before the court; and he it is who brings the facts before these twelve men.  I concur with the remarks of the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Hastings,) who has well spoken of the influence which the rich man has upon the courts of his neighborhood.  I have seen that influence in my course of life, and I know how often it prejudices the judgement of men.  But here is one thing in favor of the poor man--the lawyer, when he sees that his client is right, does not ask whether he has money or not.  If he knows he is right, and can succeed in gaining his suit, he does not ask whether he has property or not; he knows what the result of the suit will be, and will not advise the poor man to take the appeal, unless he has good cause for believing that it will be decided against the rich man.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  In illustration of my vote to support the right of appeal in all cases, I would simply state what I conceive to be a few practical common sense views.  In the first place, in order to show that the influence of the rich man in the court below is overwhelming, I would ask who controls the elections and appointments of its officers?  It is not the tenants of the houses in the village, but the owners.  With regard to the long course of litigation which my colleague from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones) supposes will be the result of permitting the right of appeal in all cases, does it follow that the poor man can always get that appeal?  If the judge below is an honest man, he will not get the appeal unless it is a just one.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  It will be the duty of the Legislature to limit the right of appeal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  I believe in abstract principles.  I believe in their justice.  If a principle be good in the abstract it must be good in practice; and I believe the right of appeal is a righteous abstract principle.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD.  One word in reply to the gentleman across the way, (Mr. Hastings.)  I think, with regard to the opinion that he expressed different from my own as regards the decisions of lower courts of justice, that probably two of the gentlemen on that side have practiced in a State where these judges are not elected by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  They were elected by the people--the gentleman is mistaken.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD.  No, sir; you had but one, and that was the lowest judicial officer in your State--justices of the peace.  I believe neither of the gentlemen has practiced under that system.  I have practiced under a system where justices of the peace were elected by the people; and I think that the objection urged against the decision of the lower courts is not a valid one.  I think that the people of the district will take care that they elect men who will not be swayed by rich men.  I should be sorry to suppose that the people would, in the exercise of that right, elect men of so little integrity as to be influenced by men of wealth.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  One suggestion.  If the right of appeal be admitted in these small cases, will not the fact, that a supervisory power is vested in the Supreme Court over the inferior courts, make the judges of the inferior courts more careful and correct in their decisions?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  It seems to me that the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Ord) did not carry out his argument.  The justice of the peace is elected by the influence of these wealthy men.  Perhaps he occupies the house belonging to one of them.  He finds one great obstacle, when the case is brought before the court, in arriving at what is termed justice.  When he is required to read the law, he cannot distinctly see it; the golden spectacles is drawn over his eyes.  The great man controls the district in which this small man resides.  Hence the prejudiced decisions, from which the poor man cannot appeal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD.  If I believed that these justices of the peace, and other judges who are elected by the people, could be swayed by one or more rich men, I would vote against the principle which we have adopted, of making them elective by the people.  I think the gentleman's argument strikes at the whole elective system of the judiciary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I am willing to admit an amendment--that in all cases where the justice of the peace is elected, and occupies the house or houses of the plantiff, or in all cases where he is elected by one man in the district, then, that this provision shall be null and void.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  Has not every member of the House who has practiced law, without reference to the States, seen gross and rank injustice done where the amount was less than $200?  I think the proposition is a preposterous one.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I call for a division in reference to civil and criminal cases.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I believe that the latter part of the amendment is entirely unnecessary, and the other is too preposterous to be introduced.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I think a division of the question is unnecessary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  The object of the part of the amendment in relation to criminal jurisdiction is to give the Supreme Court appellate upon questions of law in criminal cases.  As to trying questions of fact tried in the courts below, the Supreme Court has nothing to do with that; and as to the gentleman's ideas of preposterosity-- that this proposition is too prepostorous to be considered for a moment--in more than half the States of the Union, the appellate jurisdiction of the Supreme Court is limited.  I am very much mistaken if there are more than two States where it is not limited.  Therefore, this preposterous proposition is a preposterosity of twenty-eight of the States of the Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I hope the question will not be divided.  If the first part of the amendment is stricken out, the second part will not be required.  If it is the desire of the House, however, I withdraw the objection.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR then stated that the question would be upon the first portion of the amendment offered by the gentleman from Santa Barbara, (Mr. Noriego,) which was taken, and the result was eyes 15, noes 16.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>On motion, there was a re-count, and it was decided by ayes 17, noes 18.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, Mr. Semple and Mr. Hoppe were appointed tellers, and the question being again taken, it was decided by ayes 18, noes 17--so the first portion of the amendment was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the latter portion of the amendment, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the section as amended,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved to strike it out, with the intention of moving a section in its place.  It was of no use in its present form.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I would suggest to my colleague that he reserve this motion till the final action of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I would rather see the motion prevail here.  I wish to strike out the section as it stands, with the intention of offering it as it originally stood.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I rise to a question of order.  I do not believe the gentleman has any such right under the rules.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  The object of the gentleman cannot be attained in that way.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BROWN.  I am not surprised at the excitement this question has made.  The interests it effects are important to two classes in this House; the one are going to be deprived of very important employment or greatly benefited by the decision; and the other must of course pay the profits.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR did not think it exactly in order to charge any gentleman or class of gentlemen on this floor with personal motives.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BROWN.  I do not wish to be understood in that way.  Perhaps my mode of expressing myself is not as distinct as it might be.  There is an interest--a general interest in the decision of this question; and whenever we take an interest in any question, I think our views are apt to be tinctured in some degree by our profession or employment.  I hope I shall not be considered as impugning the motives of any individual or class, by advancing this principle.  There are private interests which affect every man to some extent.  I consider this a question which involves these interests.  Those who have made the law their study, and who gain their living by it, have opinions influenced, no doubt unconsciously, by the interests of that profession.  Others form different opinions based upon different considerations.  The question is one of very great importance.  The experience of fifty years has shown me that lawsuits are unprofitable to the litigants; they are usually attended with costs, loss of time, ill feeling, and many other evil results to both parties.  It is well, therefore, in my opinion, to embrace such features in our judiciary system as will operate as a check upon litigation.  I conceive that it is not to the benefit of the community that these decisions should be carried from court to court at their expense.  The community must suffer for it in the end, for whatever retards or diminishes the productive industry of the people individually, must operate to their disadvantage as a body.  I am opposed to the principle of holding out inducements for appeals in every petty case that may arise.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  I would ask the gentlemen if he does not see here in this body some lawyers who are in favor of, and some against the amendment.  There certainly appears to be as much division of opinion among legal gentlemen as among others in this question, so that they cannot be justly charged with having their own interests in view.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BROWN.  I do not intend to be understood as making that charge.  I said that the views of all men are tinctured more or less by the character of their employment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  I am perfectly satisfied with the gentleman's explanation.  Lawyers are a very useful body of men, and when this Constitution goes forth to the world it will be greatly indebted to them for the part they took in its formation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I am gratified with the result of the vote upon this amendment.  I am satisfied that it is important to check appeals.  The restriction I think is a just and proper one.  I have seen the greatest injury result to parties from these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I hope the House will not strike out the provision which we have adopted.  I have nothing to say as regards the impugning of the motives of the lawyers; but I can say this: that in almost every case of litigation which I ever had in my life, I was persuaded by the counsel that I would succeed if I took an appeal to the Supreme Court.  The counsel almost invariably persuades the party complaining that he will gain his suit by an appeal, and when the matter comes up before the court, he usually finds himself defeated.  The claimant is of course disposed to believe in the justice of his own case, and suffers the appeal to be taken, to his ruin.  I think is the duty of this Convention to protect the community against this abuse.  I do not believe there are lawyers here that have any such object in view; but so far as I have been concerned in litigation, I have always found it the case that the counsel advises this course; and as one of the citizens of the community, and as a guardian of the interests of those who sent me here, I believe it to be my duty to support this restriction.  Whenever the yeas and nays are called, I will be proud to record my vote in favor of it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I have heard some curious arguments brought forward on this subject.  I have heard distinctions drawn between one class of the community and another; I have seen lines drawn between the rich and the poor; between one profession and another; personal allusions made and thrown back.  I think, sir, that a debate of this kind ought to be brought to an end as soon as possible.  I see no cause for such distinctions here; and I thank my friend from San Joaquin (Mr. Vermeule) for meeting them, so far as the profession to which I belong is concerned.  Still, Mr. Chairman, I must oppose the motion of the gentleman (Mr. Norton) to strike this section out, without any reference whatever to rich or poor; to the inability of the poor man to carry his suits up to the ultimate tribunal, or to the ability of the rich man.  I am in favor of including this provision upon what I regard as a principle of common justice.  It is a very proper and necessary limitation.  I do not think it is right, that every petty suit, from five dollars up, should go through two or three or four courts, and go before the Supreme Court, for the grave consideration and discussion of that tribunal.  You will find that the decisions of the justices of the peace, made immediately at home, close by the doors of the parties concerned, where the facts are known, are generally correct.  I am perfectly willing to leave these petty suits to be settled by these decisions.  They have the right of appeal to the District Court in cases of errors of law.  For these reasons, I shall vote in favor of the amendment of the gentleman from Santa Barbara, (Mr. Noriego) and against the motion of the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Norton) to strike out the section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I wish to place one view before the House, and it is this: that, in my observation, the court of last appeal always feels a higher responsibility in its decisions, and is more likely to be correct than where appeal is made in the lower <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY.  One word.  I think the profession will bear me witness that the gentleman's experience has proved entirely contrary to theirs.  If any influence is brought to bear upon these courts, it is generally upon the court of last resort.  An inferior court is always tenacious of its decisions, and takes care that these decisions are made so that they will not be reversed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  If the motion to strike out prevails, no part or portion of the section can hereafter be introduced.  Now there are various parts of this section necessary to the judicial system proposed.  How will the House proceed then, if the motion to strike out prevails?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I withdraw the motion for the purpose and end to this debate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The fourth section, as previously amended, was then adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  The Supreme Court shall have appellate jurisdiction in all cases when the matter in dispute exceeds $200, or concerns the legality of any tax, toll, or impost, or municipal fine, and to all criminal cases amounting to felony, on questions of law alone.  And the said court, and each of the justices thereof, as well as all district and county judges, shall have power to issue writs of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. LIPPITT, the Committee then rose, reported progress, and had leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO expressed a desire to have a recess until 7 o'clock, in order that the translator might have an opportunity of translating the report now before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL alluded to the fact that several members spoke of leaving in the next steamer for the southern districts, and that it was desirable to get through the business of the Convention before its arrival.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS hoped no such consideration as that would influence the House in its action.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR expressed the opinion that it was highly improper for any member or any delegation, to talk about abandoning their seats until the object for which the people sent them here was accomplished.  It was to be hoped that the subject would not be alluded to again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then adjourned till 7 o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>EVENING SESSION, 7 O'CLOCK P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. CROSBY, the House resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. LIPPITT in the chair, on the report of the Special Committee on the Judiciary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections five and six were then adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  The State shall be divided by the first Legislature into a convenient number of districts, subject to such alteration from time to time, as the public good may require; for each of which, a district judge shall be appointed by the joint vote of the Legislature at its first meeting, who shall hold his office for two years from the first day of January next after his election; after which, said judges shall be elected by the qualified electors of their respective districts at the general election, and shall hold their office for the term of six years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 6.  The District Courts shall have original jurisdiction in law and equity, in all civil cases where the amount in dispute exceeds $200, exclusive of interest.  In all criminal cases not otherwise provided for, and in all issues of fact joined in the Probate Court, their jurisdiction shall be unlimited.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section seven being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL offered to amend by inserting after the word "election" and before the word "of," the words "by the people."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  Will the gentleman provide that sheriffs and coroners shall also be elected by the people?</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  Most assuredly.  I propose that the Legislature shall provide for the election of all officers of their courts by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I would ask if the proposition of the gentleman is not provided for in some other part of the report of the Committee?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  The Committee supposed that it was a necessary inference that the election would be by the people.  It was not thought necessary to insert the words, but I have no objection to them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section as amended, was then adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  The Legislature shall provide for the election, by the people, of a clerk of the Supreme Court and County Court clerks, district attorneys, sheriffs, coroners, and other necessary officers, and shall fix by law their duties and compensation.  County clerks shall be ex-officio clerks of the District Courts in and for their respective counties.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I would now state that the majority report contains the remainder of the sections nearly word for word, commencing at the eighth section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16, were then adopted without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  There shall be elected in each of the organized counties of this State, one county judge, who shall hold his office for four years.  He shall hold the County Court, and perform the duties of surrogate or probate judge.  The county judge, with two justices of the peace, to be designated by law, shall hold Courts of Sessions, with such criminal jurisdiction as the Legislature shall prescribe; and he shall perform such duties as shall be required by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  The County Court shall have such jurisdiction in cases arising in Justices' Courts and in special cases, as the Legislature may prescribe, but shall have no original civil jurisdiction, except in such special cases.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 10.  The times and places of holding the terms of the Supreme Court and the general and special terms of the District Courts within the several districts shall be provided for by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 11.  No judicial officer except justices of the peace, shall receive, to his own use, any fees, or perquisites of office.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  The Legislature shall provide for the speedy publication of all statute laws, and of such judicial decisions as it may deem expedient, and all laws and judicial decisions shall be free for publication by any person.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 13.  Tribunals for conciliation may be established, with such powers and duties as may be prescribed by law; but such tribunals shall have no power to render judgment to be obligatory on the parties, except they voluntarily submit their matters in difference, and agree to abide the judgment, or assent thereto in the presence of such tribunals, in such cases as shall be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  The Legislature shall determine the number of justices of the peace to be elected in each county, city, town, and incorporated village of the State, and fix by law their powers, duties, and responsibilities.  It shall also determine in what cases appeals may be made from Justices' Court to the County Court.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 15.  The justices of the Supreme Court and judges of the District Courts, shall severally, at stated times, during their continuance in office, receive for their services a compensation to be paid out of the treasury, which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they shall have been elected.  The county judges shall also, severally, at stated times, receive for their services a compensation to be paid out of the county treasury of their respective counties, which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they shall have been elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  The justices of the Supreme Court and district judges, shall be ineligible to any other office during the term which they shall have been elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD then moved the following as section 17, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 17.  Judges shall not charge juries with respect to matters of fact, but may state the testimony and declare the law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I presume the object of the gentleman is to prevent a custom which I understand prevails in some portions of the world--to prevent the judge from arguing the case before the jury in what is commonly called the summing up.  If that be the object, I think it is wholly defeated by the amendment as it is now stands; because, if the judge is permitted to state the testimony, he can state it exactly in that objectionable way which it is intended to avoid.  It sometimes happens that the judge, in summing up the testimony, takes advantage of this privilege to become a party to the suit before the court.  I do not know that such a practice is common in our own country, but it is in England, and is a very reprehensible one.  I think great injustice may proceed from it.  The judge may give to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD.  The proposed section is taken from the Constitution of Tennessee.  It is rather difficult to distinguish the difference between stating the facts and recapitulating the testimony.  It is usual for the judge to state that such and such are the facts proved.  The amendment prevents him from making such a statement to the jury; he merely states what is the testimony.  I accept the suggestion of the gentleman.  Let the judge merely state or expound the law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I hope no such amendment will prevail.  Juries are differently constituted; in some cases all are well informed men; in other cases a portion of the jury are not so well informed.  In the highest bodies upon earth, there are men of genius who have carried away the majority by the influence of their eloquence.  It is said that when Fisher Ames made his celebrated speech upon the treaty between John Jay and the British Minister, a member who took part in the opposition, moved an adjournment of the House, from the fact that the impression made by the speech was so strong that the House could not come to a just decision at that time.  There are men of talent in the legal profession who may be employed upon both sides of the case.  They may leave doubts upon the minds of the jury both as regards the law and the facts.  It is necessary, therefore, that there should be an impartial umpire, who should state the facts as adduced in the testimony, as well as the law.  Leave the jury to decide upon the facts; but leave the judge at liberty to state them as they appeared in the testimony.  I never knew a judge who attempted to re-state facts in his court, proven by creditable witnesses, where, if he made a mistake, the opposite counsel did not correct him.  The minutes are kept by the counsel.  If the judge makes a mistake, it is at that moment corrected.  There is no fear that this umpire will give a wrong statement to the jury.  After one, two, or three able and eloquent counsel have addressed the jury for many hours, I think it is very proper that the judge should re-state the facts as presented in the testimony, leaving the jury to form their own conclusions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  The gentleman (Mr. Ord) mentions the Constitution from which he got this section.  I am a native of that State, and have some knowledge of the manner in which the section got into that Constitution.  It originated from the acts of two of the judges.  They were impeached on the very charge of having abused the power of making charges to the jury.  The case involved the State in great expense, and caused great excitement throughout the country.  I look upon it as a most important provision, and I hope it will be adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I think if the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) would discriminate between the words <HI REND="italics">charge</HI>
196.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">declare</HI>
196.sgm: in the section, he would arrive at different conclusions.  I hope this provision will prevail.  I do not desire that the judge should have power to charge juries, but that he may have the privilege of <HI REND="italics">declaring</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I am opposed to the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts.) I consider that it takes away from the judge the power which he must necessarily possess, if he charges the jury at all.  That there have been judges who have abused this power is true.  Many gentlemen, I presume, upon this floor, have seen instances of it; but, sir, it has been customary during all time for judges to have this power of charging the jury.  It is necessary after the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I agree with the gentleman that the jury should have an unbiassed and uninfluenced statement of the facts; and if there is any person who can give to the jury such a statement, it is the judge.  He is heard, not as the prisoner or defendant on the one side, or as the prosecutor or plaintiff on the other; he is the impartial umpire of the law, selected by the State.  He is influenced by no possible prejudices; and when he states facts to the jury, the gentleman from Monterey knows very well if they are not to the letter true, he is immediately interrupted by the counsel upon the side against which his statement appears; he is corrected on the spot, and the jury have no misstatement from the judge, because all the facts are before them and the counsel, as well as before him.  The memory of the jury is brought back to the facts, and upon their minds no false impression is left; but if you deny to the judge any such power, if you prevent him from reciting the facts, what is the result?  I need not go further than the members of this body to prove what would be the result, in reading the journal of this Convention.  Can we all remember, even from day to day, the proceedings of the previous day? and gentlemen here are considered to be intelligent, educated men, with good memories.  Much less can you suppose that every jury in the State can remember the proceedings of a whole trial, four or six days, when they have not pen, ink, and paper before them, to note the lengthy discussions and objections interlarding the evidence of the witnesses.  If you refuse to this impartial umpire a recital of the facts after a long trial, and after the eloquent speech of the District Attorney, you probably send an innocent man to the scaffold.  I think it is but justice to the prisoner at the bar, that the judge should recite the facts, and then charge the jury as to the law alone, leaving it to the jury and the counsel to determine whether he stated them fairly or not.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I feel disposed to sustain the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts.)  I am led to this course from the fact of the many abuses I have witnessed, which it is the design of the amendment to prevent.  It has been argued that the court cannot lay down the law without a direct or indirect allusion to the facts.  Let us first determine what is the duty of the court.  Its duty is to declare what the law is.  The judge has nothing to do with the facts or the testimony; it is the business of the jury to take them into consideration.  If he is permitted to state the testimony, he necessarily takes the place of counsel, because the testimony is the very thing about which the counsel is contending.  The legitimate power of the judge is the law; he should never be permitted to interfere with the facts.  I shall therefore support the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  It seems to me this is bringing up an old time-honored question.  The gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) argues principally upon the assumption that the judge will not be an honest judge; that he will be in fact rather a poor sample of an impartial umpire.  He also urges strongly the adoption of this amendment on the ground that it would be easy for him, as a judge, having the right to state the facts to the jury, to change the opinions of that jury.  I am perfectly willing, Mr. Chairman, to accord to the gentleman the high opinion which he seems to have of his own ability, but I think this position goes rather to defeat his own argument.  The jury can resist the arguments of the counsel--they are proof against the eloquent appeals of the counsel; but they cannot resist the statement of facts by the gentleman from Monterey.  They are honest enough for every thing else; but when it comes to the statement of the judge, their honesty takes flight.  They are completely carried away by the ability of the gentleman from Monterey.  Their integrity of character is destroyed altogether when he pronounces his statement.  Up to that period, they have been honest men, with a good reputation in the community, but they are now overcome by the seductive coloring given to the facts by the gentleman from Monterey.  Now, Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  I hope this amendment will prevail; that, in the Constitution of this State, judges may be prohibited from charging juries as to the facts; that their powers may be limited to declaring the law.  If our judges, who are presumed to be men of superior minds, have not such a degree of integrity as to enable them to declare the testimony without giving it a prejudicial coloring, your counsel cannot check them.  You may not have a watchful counsel.  I prefer having this check in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I beg the indulgence of the House for one remark.  I do not know in what court the gentleman has practised--certainly it must have been a different court from any I have ever been in.  I agree with him, that we are not to take every thing because it is old, although the gentleman the other day, urged upon the Convention not to infringe upon the time--honored usage in regard to the <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:.  I go with in him discarding all usages that are not beneficial in the judgment of the Convention.  He says that the case I adduced is an argument on his side of the question; that an eloquent attorney and a weak counsel for the prisoner might produce the conviction of the prisoner.  This seems to me rather to prove the necessity of an impartial umpire.  He reverses the case, and supposes that the counsel for the prisoner is an able man, and that the District Attorney is a weak man.  Then, sir, it requires, to further the ends of justice, a succinct and clear recital by the judge, to bring the facts before the minds of the jury.  In either case, the counsel have the right to object to the charge on the spot.  As to the amendment of the gentleman who submits the proposed section, (Mr. Ord,) that the judge shall charge only as to the law, leaving the facts to be decided by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I am opposed to introducing into our Constitution sections which are more properly matters of legislative action.  Our object is to establish in this article a fundamental judiciary system, and it is not necessary that we incorporate these trivial incidents which belong to the statute books of the State, or the books of the common law.  I am not opposed to time-honored customs or old laws; but I desire to see them in their legitimate places.  Because one or two States have seen the evils resulting from a violation of these rules of law--because one or two of their judges have been impeached, and an excitement has has been produced among the citizens--is that a reason why we should adopt them here.  I do not believe that any danger can arise from permitting the law to stand as it is.  If there is, the Legislature can provide the remedy.  For this reason, I shall vote against both the proposed section and the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Botts' motion, and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 18th section, as submitted by Mr. Ord, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY.  I should like to offer another section to come in last; that the common law shall be the law in all cases not otherwise provided for.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  This question will give rise to a great deal of discussion.  It can come up under the miscellaneous provisions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY.  I withdraw the amendment for the present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 18th section of the report of the Committee was then adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 18.  The style of all process shall be, "The people of the State of California," and all prosecutions shall be conducted in the name and by the authority of the same.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee then rose, and reported the article on the Judiciary, which, on motion, was laid upon the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. LIPPITT in the chair, on so much of the report of the Committee on the Constitution as relates to "Miscellaneous Provisions."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first section thereof being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The first session of the Legislature shall be held in the Pueblo de San Jose, which place shall be the permanent seat of Government until removed by law:  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK offered the following as a substitute:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first session of the Legislature under this Constitution shall be held at Monterey, and the subsequent sessions at the permanent seat of Government, which shall be the Pueblo de San Jose, unless otherwise directed by a majority of all the members elected to each House of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I offer this as a sort of compromise.  By this amendment, the first session of the Legislature under this Constitution is to be held at this place, and the subsequent sessions at San Jose, which is to be the permanent seat of Government until otherwise directed by the Legislature.  If the first Legislature should meet in the latter part of November or in the early part of December, as proposed by many, it would be difficult for the people of San Jose to provide, at so early a date, a suitable place for that body to meet in; whereas, this entire building, I am authorized to say, is placed at the Legislature for that purpose; and there are other buildings in Monterey which are suitable as public offices, and which will be occupied as such until the capital is moved from this place.  I think, moreover, that the friends of the removal of the capital to San Jose, ought to have a little consideration for Monterey, and not take it away instantly.  They should at least give us time to prepare for the change.  This place has been the capital of the country, with the exception of a few years, ever since 1781; and to provide for the instant removal from the old capital of the country by so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I deeply sympathise with the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck;) but, sir, I do not agree with him in his argument.  Monterey is at one side of the geographical centre of the country--far distant from the centre of population.  If the seat of Government has been here since the year 1781--some sixty years--Monterey having enjoyed that privilege during that long period, is it any reason why she should have it still longer.  Because she has had the privilege for a long time, must she continue to have it?  The gentleman's agument amounts substantially to this: that, if a thing has been wrong for a long time, it should continue to be wrong.  I say, sir, let the capital be put at its proper place at once; let it be where it is designed to be permanently.  The gentleman from Monterey says, here is a building which he is at liberty to offer.  Very well.  We have a building at San Jose too, strange as it may seem; and we hope to have more; and if this Legislature is to meet there, I am authorized to say, by the people of the place, that a room shall be furnished free of expense, as good as this.  I do not rise here to complain of the building or accommodations in Monterey, but simply to state that the people of San Jose have offered a suitable building and the best accommodations the place can afford, to the first Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT.  I rise to a rule of order.  I do not believe any proposition of this kind has been received by the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I would not have stated it unless the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Halleck) had rendered it necessary by his statement.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I would ask the gentleman if this is merely held out as a bribe; that the citizens of San Jose will do this now, but not hereafter?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I am not prepared to say that the people of San Jose have offered a bribe as yet; but they have offered between twenty and thirty acres of ground as a site for the State capitol.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I did not consider it as a bribe offered for the first session.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  No, sir, nor for any session.  The building to be occupied as a capitol now, will be completed in time for the first session.  I am authorized to say that it will be ready, free of expense, for the accommodation of the Legislature for the first session, no matter when it meets, whether in November, December, or January--so there is no excuse as to the shortness of time.  The gentleman seems to think the delegates from Monterey deserve some return if they vote with the delegates from San Jose.  The time was when, if such a proposition had been made, it might have been acceded to, but it is now too late.  If the capital is not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Strange as it may seem to you, Mr. Chairman, and to this house, member as I am from the district of Monterey, I do not consider that I am instructed to vote for Monterey.  I consider myself perfectly at liberty to vote for the seat of Government at San Jose, or any other point of the territory that I think best.  I believe our constituents permit us to vote for the good of the whole territory.  When any gentleman can show me here any good and sufficient reason for removing the capital of the State from its present location, I declare myself ready and willing to vote for that place.  Now, sir, I grant you there have been some tolerably potent arguments used here this evening.  We have had a beautiful map introduced, a plan of a beautiful building presented to us.  But this is not exactly fair; this thing has been sprung upon the people of Monterey.  They did not know that maps were to be prepared and buildings to be drawn.  Sir, if you will wait a week, I will pledge the people of Monterey to furnish you with one ofthe most beautiful architectural specimens of a building you ever saw.  Is it seriously proposed, sir, that you shall remove the capital of the Commonwealth upon such grounds as this?  Are these the only reasons that gentlemen have to present here for the removal of the capital of this country?  The gentleman (Mr. Hoppe) does say something about the centrality of the place.  I thought then he had at length got to the merits of the question; but sir, he touched it only.  Centrality of position is one great reason.  I do not maintain that there is a great deal of difference between the centrality of San Jose and Monterey; but if there be a difference at all, it is certainly in favor of Monterey.  I do not want to see maps.  The central place is that which is most accessable to the greatest number of population.  If it was on the extreme verge of the territory, and was more accessible than any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I rise to move an amendment to the substitute proposed by the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck;) to strike out the word "Monterey," and insert "San Francisco."  I think this will be acceptable to the Convention.  There is now some chance for a compromise.  A great deal of sectional and local feeling has arisen on this question.  I am not authorized by my constituents to offer a lot of ground or a building for the accommodation of the Legislature, but I know that legislative halls will be furnished by the citizens of San Francisco, and grounds upon which to erect a permanent building, if the people of this State see fit to make that their capital.  The gentleman who has proceded me (Mr. Botts) has made a good argument in favor of San Franisco.  He tells you that it is the great centre of navigation; that the vessels from the north and the south will be running there constantly--its population and trade being more there than any other part of the country; members of the Legislature while there can attend to other business; the accommodations are better than at any other place in the country; and with a view to the first meeting of the Legislature, whatever may be the future determination of the people, it strikes me as decidedly the most desirable place.  When I first came down here to join this Convention, I had to come in the steamer from San Francisco with sixteen delegates, who had congregated at San Francisco for the purpose of coming to Monterey.  They were obliged to come to this remote place, where no other business can be attended to than their official duties.  I rise altogether in a spirit of conciliation.  I desire to compromise the difficulty between San Jose and Monterey by locating the capital at San Francisco, which I believe every gentleman will admit is the most accessible and therefore the most central point.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I am decidedly opposed to the last amendment, and I am not certain that I can support either of the other propositions.  We ought to be careful that our action upon this subject will be satifactory to the people.  I am opposed to San Francisco for this reason; that it has too much mercantile influence for a legislative body; there is too much of the subsidizing influence to control the votes of members.  The consideration that the gentlemen from San Francisco (Mr. Price) brings forward as to the convenience of having the seat of Government where members can attend to other than their official business, is a strong <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  My opinions coincide substantially with those of the gentleman who has just taken his seat; and in order to meet the views of that gentleman, I am requested by my colleague, and other southern gentlemen, to state that the most appropriate place for the capital is San Luis Obispo.  We have there a most beautiful Mission, which is at the service of the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I have something here which I have no doubt will settle all this difference.  I know it involves a principle which must unite one large portion of the House.  I do it, sir, in the same spirit of compromise in which the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Price) has moved the insertion of that place in the amendment.  I give notice that I shall move, at the proper time, to strike out the words fixing the place, whatever they may be, and insert in lieu thereof, "at some point east of the Sierra Nevada range of mountains, in the Great Basin, as near to the central point defined in the Constitution as possible."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  In the selection of the seat of Government, or any other act of equal magnitude, I think the main considerations are, public necessity and public convenience; and to these ends must give way all private or corporate views.  I am myself in favor of the Pueblo of San Jose as the capital of this country.  I believe it to be more accessible, more salubrious in climate, and possessing greater facilities for the Legislature than any other point near the centre of our territory.  I do not look lightly upon the very liberal donation which the gentleman from San Jose offers to this Convention; it certainly paves the way for what we require at a seat of Government.  But so far as the first session of the Legislature is concerned, an insuperable obstacle has been presented by the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck.)  The public archives and records are kept here, and cannot be removed until the Government is organized and adopted.  I think that the present agitated state of the country with regard to property, and the necessity of frequent reference to these records, would render such a movement extremely inexpedient.  Besides, I ask you, would it not be more in accordance with republican usage, to leave the question of the seat of Government to the people, after the first Legislature?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  In speaking upon this amendment, I would barely give notice, that if Benecia should be substituted as a compromise, I shall feel under the necessity of voting for it.  I am clearly of opinion that the seat of Government should not be too great a commercial emporium; and although that may be regarded as an objection to Benecia--inasmuch as it is becoming a place of great commercial importance--I will only say, that if the members of this Convention desire to make it the seat of Government, I have lots there which the Government can have by paying for them; and they can also have a building there very soon, provided they build it on those lots after they have paid for them.  But I am opposed to the location at San Francisco.  For the present, if any location is made, I am decidedly in favor of the Pueblo of San Jose.  It has many advantages over all others.  In a very short time we shall have the means of going from Benecia to San Jose in four hours.  I shall vote against the amendment of the gentleman from San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>245</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  Can the gentleman give us any statistics of the various improvements and the number of departures by land and water daily?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  I was just coming to that part of the subject, but I shall reserve my remarks for another occasion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  The gentleman proposes Benecia, and states that that remarkable place is the head of ship navigation.  Now, sir, it is well known that Stockton is the head of ship navigation.  It possesses a great many advantages over Benecia, and I should not be surprised if the future Legislature would locate the seat of Government there.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. COBARRUVIAS.  You are now debating a very interesting question--where the capital of California shall be.  I do not believe you can fix upon a more eligible place than Santa Barbara, both because of its eligible position and salubrity of climate.  I hope the Convention will take its advantages into consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment of Mr. Price to insert "San Francisco" instead of "Monterey," and it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I shall vote against the substitute proposed by the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck.)  There is not a single man in my district who prefers Monterey even for the first session.  I look upon San Jose as the proper place for the seat of Government.  If that is to be the seat of Government, let us have it at once.  I have seen more time wasted on questions of the seat of Government than perhaps any others.  If you leave this open, it will give rise to interminable discussion.  I consider San Jose the best location both for the present and the future.  The argument, so far as the archives are concerned, amounts to absolutely nothing.  If we have a Government, we will have the archives; if we have the archives here, we can have them there.  We ought to have once seat of Government, and one only.  If San Jose has the advantage over Monterey, and is to be the permanent seat of Government, we should have it there at once.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT.  I shall vote for the substitute for two very important reasons: the first of which is, that I am so instructed by my constituents; and the second is, because I deem it the proper place for the capital.  I do not believe there is a single individual within the district of Monterey but who is in favor of having the capital at this place; and I do not consider that their wishes should be overlooked by their representatives in this Convention.  I fully agree with them that this is the proper place.  In case, however, we should not be able to retain it here, I sincerely hope the gentlemen who advocate its removal to San Jose, will receive the proposition of my colleague to have it remain here during the first session of the Legislature.  I think the reasons which I have urged, are sufficient to warrant me in taking this ground.  The fact that the public records are here, and cannot be removed at present, is another very forcible reason.  Gentlemen speak of the upper part of the country as the great central point in regard to population.  It should be borne in mind that the prospects of this district are very promising; that discoveries of gold mines are being made; and the probability is, that its mineral resources, when fully developed, will be found equally as attractive as those of the upper portions of country.  Population is moving south.  The climate is more salubrious than it is above, and every day new inducements are springing up for emigration in this direction.  If Monterey is not to be the permanent seat of Government, I hope at least, that the substitute of my colleague will be adopted, providing that the capital shall not be removed until after the first session of the Legislature.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. COBARRUVIAS moved to amend, by striking out all after the words "San Jose."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I have but a few words to offer in relation to the substitute before the House.  With due deference to the opinions and remarks of the gentleman from San Francisco.  (Mr. Gwin,) I would call his attention to one fact.  Look at the constitutions of the different States as made by the Conventions?  Did they not generally provide for the capital at the first session of the Legislature, and insert a provision requiring the Legislature afterwards to provide for it?  Such has been the course of a majority of the States beyond the Rocky Mountains.  One remark more: We have everything here that will be necessary for the use of the Legislature, and I really believe we ought not to make the expenses of this Government greater by removing it immediately to another place, where most if not all the expense would be additional, and where any building erected in the next two months must be temporary.  The Legislature should have time to erect permanent buildings at the place to which the capital is to be removed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  The only obstacle to my vote in favor of San Jose is removed by the statement of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) who says we can get these public documents; and by the admission of the gentleman from Monterey, who, by implication, does not deny it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I am in favor of the immediate removal of the seat of Government to San Jose, because it is the most central point.  The people of Monterey have had it here quite long enough; unless, indeed, we are to be governed altogether by time-honored customs.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  As I failed in my effort, I am bound to take sides in this fight one way or other.  I am decidedly in favor of San Jose.  Under our Constitution the State officers are to be elected.  These State officers are to be located at the seat of Government; they must carry their families there; they must obtain houses there, and locate themselves permanently.  For a temporary meeting of the Legislature they would have to incur a vast amount of inconvenience and expense to do this.  I think it is the best policy to fix the seat of Government permanently at this time--to settle this question for the people at once.  If anything is left at all, I fully concur with the gentleman from San Joaquin, (Mr. Vermeule,) that every future change should left to the people; and if that was the question before the House, I should certainly vote for it.  I am in favor of San Jose being permanently and at once the seat of Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ARAM.  I think that this Convention should decide on some point as the permanent location for the seat of Government.  Judging from the past, we have illustrations enough to satisfy us of the great importance of locating permanently at some central point.  In Ohio they located their capital at Chillicothe.  Afterwards sectional divisions and interests grew up; they abandoned Chillicothe and moved it to Zanesville.  It remained there a few years, and subjected both places to great expense, and was a source of great expense to the State.  Afterwards other interests drew it to the centre of the State, Columbus, where it ought to have been in the first place.  Have we no reason to expect that, unless we select some central point, we will incur the same expense--perhaps a million of dollars?  It is very probable that unless we do adopt that policy, and fix it permanently at this time, we will have to undergo even greater expense and inconvenience than any of the States have experienced from changes of this kind.  San Jose is the geographical centre of this State; it has none of the objectionable features of a commercial town.  Being further inland than San Francisco or Monterey, it possesses the additional advantage of greater security in case of invasion.  History records many instances of the capital of the country being torn down, and the public archives being destroyed.  San Jose is central and salubrious--accessible from all parts of the country; and within a very short time there will be small steamboats plying to the Embarcadera, which is within six miles of the town.  Maps of the plan of the town have not been exhibited here for show--it is a reality.  And let me tell you that Washington square is now composed of some sixty lots that would <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the motion to strike out the words "unless otherwise directed by a majority of both Houses of the Legislature," and it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Halleck's substitute, and it was rejected by ayes 15, noes 23.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first section, as reported, was then adopted--ayes 23, noes 14.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention then rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE then offered the following, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR then announced Messrs. Price, Sherwood, and McDougal, as such committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant of adjournment.  Prayer by Rev. Senor Padre Antonio Ramirez.  Journal of yesterday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART offered the following resolution, which, being objected to, lies over one day, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. BOTTS in the chair, on the report of the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 2d section of the article on Miscellaneous Provisions being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  Any citizen of the State who shall, after the adoption of this Constitution, fight a duel with deadly weapons, with a citizen of this State, or send or accept a challenge to fight a duel with deadly weapons, either within this State or out of it, with a citizen of this State, or who shall act as second, or knowingly aid or assist in any manner those so offending, shall be deprived of holding any office of profit, and of enjoying the right of suffrage under this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT.  No clause that you can introduce in the Constitution will prevent a man from fighting a duel, if it be in defence of his honor.  There are few men who will not risk their lives when their honor is at stake.  If a man be forbidden to hold office because he has too much respect for his honor, we place him in a degraded position.  It may be said that it is a false sense of honor, but there may be circumstances in every man's life to induce him, if he possess one particle of manliness or one principle of liberty, to defend his honor at the risk of his life.  If we we had in the Constitution of the United States a clause like this, Hamilton, Randolph, Jackson, Clay, and Benton, would have been dropped from the roll of American statesmen.  Their eminent services would not have been known to the public.  For this reason, I am in favor of striking out this clause from the Constitution, and I sincerly hope that other members will sustain me.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  There was a remark dropped from the gentleman who last spoke, (Mr. Dent,) which, I think, should claim the attention of this House as one of great force.  It was, after urging in favor of duelling, that it might be from a false sense of honor that persons engaged in a duel.  If this Convention say that it is a false of honor that drives a man to shoot his neighbor--if the people of California say so--then duels should be prevented here.  The gentleman named a distinguished statesman in connection with this subject, the circumstances of whose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>It is no mark of courage for one man to shoot another in a duel.  I have known great cowards to fight duels.  Nor does it sustain a man's honor.  The experience of all the northern States of the Union, proves that the honor of men can be sustained without fighting duels.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I wish to explain the reason why I shall vote in favor of the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Dent) to strike this section out.  I have no doubt but that the disposition of the House will be to reject the amendment.  I regret that the gentleman took the ground in defence of the propriety of duelling--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT.  I did not mean to defend the propriety of duelling, but the propriety of keeping it out of the Constitution.  I said that a man might be placed in circumstances that all the considerations of position, all the prohibitions of the law would not deter him from fighting; and that it would be injustice to deprive ourselves of the services of such a man.  I am opposed to having such a clause in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  Still I regret that the gentleman has thought proper to urge upon this floor any thing in support of his motion, which might go towards <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>"The Legislature shall pass such laws to prevent the evil practice of duelling, as they may deem necessary, and may require all officers, before they enter on the duties of their respective offices, to take the following oath or affirmation: `I do solemnly swear, (or affirm, as the case may be,) that I have not been engaged in a duel, by sending or accepting a challenge to fight a duel, or by fighting a duel, since the first day of January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and thirty three, nor will I be so engaged during my continuance in office.  <HI REND="italics">So help me God</HI>
196.sgm:<P>No man could occupy an official position in that State until he took this oath; and it was with the utmost difficulty that some of the most distinguished citizens afterwards, in violating that law, could get an act of the Legislature passed to exonerate them.  Opposite where I live, in Vicksburg, on the other side of the river, there have been hundreds of duels fought, and many valuable lives sacrificed.  Let us not omit such a valuable provision.  We are a peculiar and isolated people.  No part of the Union cold be more injuriously affected by duelling than this, where there is so large a mixed population.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I am in favor of this provision in the Constitution.  I have contended in this House, not only upon that subject, but many others, that the Bill of Rights was not the proper place for it.  I therefore opposed putting it there, with the view of having it inserted in the body of the Constitution, where it should remain, and where it is a part of the organic law of the State.  I believe that no man, who has been either directly or indirectly engaged in the murder of his fellow man, should be permitted to represent a great free people, or enjoy the elective franchise in a civilized country.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR reminded the House that any motion to amend the paragraph would take precedence of a motion to strike out.  If there were any amendments to be offered, therefore, they must be offered before the vote was taken on striking out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT.  I should be perfectly willing to introduce a clause to this effect: that no man shall be entitled to hold office under the Government, who gives an insult to his fellow man; for where insults are given, duelling is the inevitable result.  The proudest names on the roll of American statesmen are proof of this fact.  Such men as Hamilton and Clay, and others whom I have named, are men possessed of sufficient credit to back out of fighting, if it was necessary.  I say that under peculiar circumstances a man would be damned in the estimation of the public if he did not fight.  Who is to reap the disadvantages of refusing these men who have participated in duelling the right to hold office?  We are ourselves--the people of the State.  The gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) has declared his surprise that such a motion should emanate from me.  Now, sir, I here pledge my honor, that if such a clause is introduced in the Constitution of California, and I should be upon the bench, I shall, to the very best of my ability, carry out that provision of the Constitution.  I do not think the gentleman was right in alluding to me in my official capacity.  I say there are circumstances which may render a duel necessary.  A large man may impose upon a smaller one, in such manner that he can obtain no reparation in law.  I have sworn to support the Constitution of the United States, and I find no provision there to sanction the principle of depriving a man of the right of suffrage because he fights a duel.  I deem it but just that such a clause should be expunged from the Constitution of this State.  Besides it will not prevent the practice.  A man who is willing to risk his life when his honor is assailed, will risk all the rights of citizenship under this prohibition.  If death, or the prospect of death, has no influence upon him, certainly the prospect of being deprived of the rights to hold office will not.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I regret, very much, sir, that this clause has been introduced at all in the provisions of the Constitution.  I need not say that I am always disposed to prevent an evil practice, and that I detest most heartily the practice of duelling; but I would be a hypocrite if I did not say that there are circumstances which compel men to resort to this mode of contest.  I deem it entirely useless to attempt to restrain men by mere laws from engaging in duels, as long as they are not restrained by the general feeling of the community.  Public opinion must be the restraint, and it is the only effectual restraint.  I have always thought that laws of this kind have a baneful tendency--that they only add to the difficulty; but if it should be the determination of the Convention to introduce this provision in the Constitution, I most certainly desire, under the decision of the Chair, that an amendment shall be made to the section.  I see no reason why the words "with any citizen of this State" should be adopted.  Why a citizen of this State?  I would move, therefore, that they be stricken out.  If he is restrained from raising his arm in defence of his honor against a citizen of this State, I see no reason why he should not be prohibited from wreaking vengeance against a foreigner.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  As I was in some degree instrumental in having this section drawn up, I feel bound to defend it.  Although I have been often twitted upon this floor as having a great deference for precedents, still I adhere to this: that when we have the deliberate judgment of those who have great experience on any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  There is certainly no better way of striking at the practice of duelling, than that contained within this section, because it strikes at the very root of the evil.  This deprivation of a citizen of all political rights, touches directly that honor which incites him to fight a duel.  But my argument against this section has been upon the propriety of introducing it in the Constitution at all.  There is now another matter before the House--the amendment of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Steuart.)  I shall vote for that amendment.  I think if we adopt such a provision at all, we should make it do full justice to other men--to the citizens of other States, who are our common fellow-citizens.  Let us not say that the citizens of our sister States can be shot down, can be murdered with impunity, or at least without the guards here imposed upon the citizens of this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE.  There is one advantage to be derived from this provision, if you place it in the Constitution.  It will at least afford men a pretext for not engaging in duels.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER.  I do not think it right that the citizens of California should be deprived of all the rights of citizenship, and persons who come within our State should have the right to call out any of our citizens and shoot them down--that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  It appears, Mr. Chairman, that the whole House is in favor of the amendment, (Mr. Steuart's,) and therefore it would be very useless for me to say any thing against it.  But I must add my mite to oppose a proposition which would throw a citizen of this State, hand and foot, at the mercy of any stranger of any nation who chooses to come among us.  I do not want to see them put upon an unequal footing.  We are making a Constitution for the advantage of our own citizens, and not for the advantage of foreigners.  I do not want foreigners to have the right to insult our citizens with perfect security and impunity; that we should lose our dearest rights of citizenship, and they lose nothing.  They may hereafter become citizen of this State after having, in duels, slain its citizens.  There is no prohibition against them.  They may sit in our Legislature, and even at the head of our Government.  I consider that it would be doing injustice to the citizens of this State to establish any such distinction.  We should stand upon the same footing with them that they stand upon with us.  If they lose no rights or franchise, we should lose none; and I should hesitate long to vote for a proposition that binds us hand and foot.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  The provision now before the House strikes alone at those men who aspire to office; at the same time it leaves the great mass of the citizens the privilege of fighting duels whenever they please.  Why should you put restrictions alone upon men who occupy, or aspire to occupy, certain positions?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCDOUGAL.  It strikes me that this provision itself puts the matter in all the lights in which it can be viewed.  Any citizen of this State, after the adoption of the Constitution shall, if he fight a duel, be deprived from holding any office.  It is not clear but that a citizen of this State may fight a duel with a citizen of another State, or of France, or England; or he may go to Washington and fight all the Senators and Representatives, provided they are not citizens of this State; but if he meets there a citizen of California, they must be friendly.  It won't do for them to fight, because if they do they cannot hold office when they get home.  A man who commits a crime in this State is to be disfranchized; a man who commits a crime anywhere else is also to be disfranchised.  Foreigners may come into this State and fight as many duels as they please among themselves, and with us too, but they may become citizens in twenty-four hours after the duel is fought; and they may occupy the Supreme bench or the gubernatorial chair.  But, sir, this thing is carried still further, in another section which follows; the party who has committed the crime is compelled to be a witness against himself, and swear that he has committed the crime.  Who ever heard of anything like this?  If Louisiana has done it, she has done wrong.  It would be a stain upon our Constitution to insert such a provision, when we have declared in another part of the Constitution that no man shall be a witness against himself.  Both articles ought to be stricken out, for they are both ridiculous.  The Legislature ought to do just what they please about it.  No Legislature can make a party a witness against himself; nor can any Legislature pass a law contradicting itself, as this does.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  The first article which has been read on the subject of dueling is the one under consideration.  The article after that, compelling a man to take a certain form of oath, is separate and distinct.  My own opinion is, that to strike out the words "with a citizen," accomplishes the object.  It prevents a duel between a person not a citizen and a person who is a citizen of this State; that is, a citizen of this State is disqualified if he fights with a person not a citizen of the State.  It prevents duelling entirely, so far as disqualification to hold office can present it.  With that amendment, and without adopting the next section, I think we can cover the whole ground.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I pronounce this clause unconstitutional.  The article proposed to be introduced produces this effect: The party is tried in the State in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT moved to amend by inserting after the words "of this State" the words "who shall have been convicted of fighting such duel."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I did hope that this question was settled when it came up in the Bill of Rights.  It was there objected to, and I regret to see it introduced again.  I am clearly of opinion that no clause should be introduced in this Constitution fixing a penalty to an offence.  We have here a clause against duelling imposing one of the highest penalties known under our system of Government--disfranchisement, prohibition from holding office.  You bring the offender down, sir, to a level with the veriest criminal, whilst the fact of his having fought a duel does not degrade him in the estimation of his fellow-men.  I would leave this for your future Legislature.  We have not the grave-yard of Louisiana here; we have not yet merited the reproach of being known as a duelling people, and I trust we never will.  But it is a stain upon the people of California to engraft upon this Constitution a prohibition against duelling.  It is saying to them that they want this restraint, when they have shown no evidence that they require it.  There is an inconsistency in this which I should regret to see our Constitution contain.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I am very glad my colleague (Mr. Price) has brought forward these views precisely in the way he has.  I do not mean to go into a discussion of the subject, but it is exactly for the reasons stated by the gentleman himself that I shall vote for the section; and it was for these reasons that the section was introduced.  And I presume that, for the same reasons, that a majority of the members of this Convention have made up their minds to vote for it.  What does he state?  He says that any citizen who has committed this offence--for I believe there is not a gentleman here who does not admit either directly or indirectly that it is an offence against society and against God--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE.  I would like to be considered as not in that category.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I should like also to be excepted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  Very good.  The gentleman tells you that he does not wish to have any provision made by law punishing as a crime that which does not involve any social degradation.  That is precisely why we are called upon to introduce such a provision in our Constitution.  It is the reason why ordinary laws passed by the Legislature have not accomplished the object.  Owing to these false notions of honor, which have come down to us from barbarous times, the commission of this offence, I am sorry to say, does not involve social degradation; and as the gentleman observes, one man may in a duel bathe his hands in his brother's blood and still hold up his head as a man--still be considered the same righteous, honorable, just citizen that he has always been.  He loses no character by the act; for precisely that reason, owing to the vitiated state of public opinion, the crime of duelling differs from all other offences known to our code, and for that reason we cannot leave it to the Legislature.  All other crimes to which a stigma is attached, we can leave to ordinary laws passed by the Legislature; they are sufficient to put a stop to the evil.  Why do not constitutions impose certain penalties against murder, or robbery, or any other infamous offence?  Because public opinion stigmatises those offences with infamy, and they are arrested by ordinary laws, which is the object designed to be accomplished.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  It does seem to me that my colleague is misrepresenting his constituents.  He tells them things which must, shall, and will be done; and he admits in his argument that he is opposing public opinion, and hence he is arguing that we are here to restrict and not to act in accordance with the wishes of our constituents.  I contend, sir, that it is our highest duty to carry out public opinion on this and all other subjects.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  One word with respect to misrepresenting my constituents.  I have received no instructions from them to vote against any constitutional provision; and I would only add, that if I had received any such instructions, I should resign my seat in this body before I would carry them out by voting to strike out a clause against duelling.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  Duelling itself is, so far as I am individually concerned, unconstitutional.  My constitution forbids it, and I have resolved never to fight a duel if I can honorably get out of it.  A few remarks as to the propriety of such a measure; In the first place, the penalty here in this clause is the highest punishment that I know of.  Now, I have an instinctive dread of death.  I dislike the idea of dying; but give me my choice, whether I shall be branded with infamy, prohibited from holding any office from under the Government, from that of governor down to a tax gatherer, and never more have the privilege of chosing at the ballot-box the men who shall preside over me, and I should choose death in preference.  The idea of hanging is a little more elevated, but to me more honorable and more to be desired than such a punishment as this.  I would dislike very much to fight a duel, because I might be killed.  I consider that one of the strongest objections to the practice.  To me it is a constitutional objection; but I think to be shot down, or to be hung, is preferable to disfranchisement.  I am opposed to disproportionate punishments.  The man who is convicted of the highest crime known to our laws--the murder of his brother--is only hung, nothing more; barely hung by the neck till he is dead.  But for fighting a duel, carrying or sending a challenge, aiding or abetting in any manner--even for knowing that a duel is fought, you inflict a higher punishment than you do upon the man who has committed murder.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I say, Mr. Chairman, that the very object of punishment is to prevent crime.  Why wreak vengeance upon a man who has committed a crime, unless it have the effect of preventing it.  In all time past, it has been found that an equitable gradation of punishment has had the best tendency to prevent the commission of crime.  When Draco made laws, he was called the bloody law-maker.  And why?  Because even the slightest deviation from right, he maintained, deserved death; and when he had inflicted death, he could do no more.  If Draco had known the privilege of going to the ballot-box--the glorious privilege of exercising the rights of a freeman--he would have made some gradation in his punishment.  He would have made disfranchisement a greater punishment than death.  If you embody this in your Constitution, it is beyond the reach of the Legislature; you say to the Legislature and the people of California, we, your representatives in this Convention, have declared that you shall abide by this clause, and you shall never alter it unless you begin at the foundation and call another Convention.  I am decidedly opposed to duelling, Mr. Chairman; I think it is a wrong mode of settling a difficulty; but I am opposed, also, to such an inordinate punishment; a punishment so infamous that two generations will not wipe it out.  I say, then, pause before you act; reflect upon the stain that you are about to inflict upon your fellow-citizens; remember that even the crime of treason cannot, under the Constitution, work corruption of blood or forfeiture, except during the life of the person so attainted.  I am opposed to both the amendments.  The original clause as reported is greatly superior to them, but I would like, if it is adopted at all, to have a punishment proportionate to the offence.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  The gentleman from Sonoma (Mr. Semple) says he is opposed to this provision only for the reason that the punishment proposed is too great for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr MCCARVER.  On the very ground upon which the gentleman from Sonoma (Mr. Semple) opposes this provision--the deprivation of the right of suffrage--I am in favor of this high penalty.  Suppose an individual calls out his friend and shoots him down, and suppose another murders a citizen for his money, what difference is there in effect between the two cases.  They have both committed murder; the object was different, but the result is the same.  In either case, a citizen of the State is slain.  The one murderer is hung; the other is merely deprived of a political right.  The gentleman says that the penalty of death is not so great.  Why, sir, when a man is hung, he is disfranchised; he can no more exercise the rights of citizenship.  He is deprived both of his life and his political rights; whereas, the other is deprived of his political rights only; he is permitted to live and profit by his punishment.  But the man who is put to death is forever deprived of that opportunity.  I am in favor of putting a restriction in the Constitution to disfranchise any man of his political rights who shall attempt to murder his fellow man.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr CROSBY gave notice that if the amendment before the House was rejected, he would introduce an amendment leaving the punishment entirely to the Legislature, but recognizing in the Constitution a dissent from the custom.  He thought it would satisfy the scruples of those who were opposed to carrying the penalty to the extent provided in the clause as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Steuart's amendment, to strike out the words a "citizen of this State," wherever they occur, and the amendment was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT then offered the amendment of which he had previously given notice.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN gave notice that if this amendment was adopted, he would move to strike out the section, and insert the provision on this subject from the Constitution of Iowa.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE was opposed to the amendment on the ground that it gave foreigners the advantage over citizens of the State.  He moved to strike it out, and insert an amendment requiring the Legislature to pass such laws as effectually to prevent all persons, not citizens of the State, as well as citizens, from engaging in duels within its borders.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT rose to a question of order.  He desired the Chair to state which of the amendments was before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided that the question was on the adoption of the amendment offered by Mr. Wozencraft.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the amendment rejected by ayes 14, noes 20.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY then moved his proposed amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD suggested that his colleague withdraw the amendment, and let the question be taken on the original article.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the original section, as amended by Mr. Steuart, and it was adopted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"Any citizen of this State who shall, after the adoption of this Constitution, fight a duel with deadly weapons, or send, or accept a challenge to fight a duel with deadly weapons, either within this State or out of it, or who shall act as second, or knowingly aid or asist in any manner those thus offending, shall be deprived of holding any office of profit, and of enjoying the right of suffrage, under this Constitution."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 3 then coming under consideration as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"SEC. 3.  Members of the Legislature, and all officers, before they enter upon the duties of their offices, shall take the following oath or affirmation: I (A B) do solemnly swear (or affirm,) that I will faithfully and impartially discharge and perform all the duties incumbent on me as--, according to the best of my abilities and understanding, agreeably to the Constitution and Laws of the United States, and of this State; and I do further solemnly swear (or affirm,) that since the adoption of the present Constitution, I, being a citizen of this State, have not fought a duel with deadly weapons within this State, nor out of it, with a citizen of this State, nor have I sent or accepted a challenge to fight a duel with deadly weapons, with a citizen of this State, nor have I acted as second in carrying a challenge, or aided, or advised, or assisted any person thus offending.  <HI REND="italics">So help me God</HI>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved to strike out the whole section, and insert the following, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"SEC. 3.  Members of the Legislature, and all officers, executive and judicial, except such inferior officers as may be by law exempted, shall, before they enter on the duties of their respective offices, take and subscribe the following oath or affirmation:</P>
196.sgm:<P>`I do solemnly swear (or affirm, as the case may be,) that I will support the Constitution of the United States, and the Constitution of the State of California, and that I will faithfully discharge the duties of the office of--, according to the best of my ability.'</P>
196.sgm:<P>"And no other oath, declaration, or test, shall be required as a qualification for any office or public trust."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said this substitute was the most simple he could find on the subject in any of the Constitutions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCDOUGAL was opposed to it on the ground that the section as reported was necessary to carry out the object of the preceding section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the substitute, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, without debate, on sections 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12, and they were passed, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 4.   The Legislature shall establish a system of county and town governments, which shall be as nearly uniform as practicable, throughout the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  The Legislature shall have power to provide for the election of a board of supervisors in each county; and these supervisors shall jointly and individually perform such duties as may be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 6.  All county officers whose election or appointment is not provided for by this Constitution, shall be elected by the respective counties, or appointed by the board of supervisors or other authorities, as the Legislature shall direct.  All city, town, and village officers, whose election or appointment is not provided for by this Constitution, shall be elected by the electors of such cities, towns, and villages, or some division thereof, or appointed by such authorities as the Legislature shall designate for that purpose; and other officers whose election or appointment is not provided for by this Constitution, and all officers whose offices may hereafter be created by law, shall be elected by the people or appointed, as the Legislature my direct.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  When the duration of any office is not provided for by this Constitution, it may be declared by law, and if not so declared, such office shall be held during the pleasure of the authority making the appointment; but the duration of any office not fixed by this Constitution, shall never exceed four years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  The political year shall begin on the 1st day of January, and the fiscal year on the 1st day of July.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  Each county, town, city, and incorporated village, shall make provision for the support of its own officers, subject to such restrictions and regulations as the Legislature may prescribe.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 10.  The credit of the State shall not, in any manner, be given or loaned to or in aid of any individual, association, or corporation; nor shall the State directly or indirectly become a stockholder in any association or corporation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 11.  Suits may be brought against the State in such manner, and in such courts, as shall be directed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  No contract of marriage, if otherwise duly made, shall be invalidated for want of conformity to the requirements of any religious sect.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK asked the consent of the House to receive the reading of an additional section.  It was drawn up to satisfy the opinions of the southern members in regard to taxation:</P>
196.sgm:<P>All lands liable to taxation in this State shall be taxed in proportion to their value; and this value shall be appraised by officers elected by the qualified electors of the district, county, or town in which the lands to be taxed are situated.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD moved to amend by striking out the word "lands" after the word "all," and insert the words "immoveable and moveable property;" to strike out the word "there" before the word "value," and insert the word "its," and to strike out all after the word "the" and before the word "situated," and insert the words "said property is."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said that this had reference to lands particularly.  There were other provisions in relation to other kinds of property.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Sherwood thought the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Ord) would not operate very well in this country.  Suppose the gentleman had a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>258</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD.  I believe my amendment is not understood by the House.  Assessors, in making their assessments of property, will make general assessments; they will make assessments of all the property at a ranch.  As to the instance of a bag of gold dust, it will be very difficult, whatever law you may form, to draw taxation from property of that kind.  I think, with regard to assessments, that the rule should be uniform.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  There is a custom in California of sending cattle to ranches in one district from other districts, but I do not wish the question of cattle, or other questions of moveable property, to mix up with this.  You cannot conveniently send lands from one district to another.  I wish this to refer to lands merely, and if gentlemen want such a provision as that suggested by the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Ord,) they can put it in a new article.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Ord's amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE could see no use in the section proposed by the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck,) and therefore no reason for inserting it in the Constitution.  The operation of taxation would go on without it, and other provisions of the Constitution provided that it should be uniform.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the additional section proposed by Mr. Halleck was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the thirteenth section--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT said it was a subject of great importance, and as there appeared to be scarcely a quorum present, he hoped the Committee would rise and report progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Committee then rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House took a recess till 7 o'clock, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 7 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, the Committee appointed to report a plan for taking the State census were instructed to report to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Shannon in the Chair, on so much of the report of the Committee on the Constitution as relates to miscellaneous provisions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The thirteenth section of the report being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 13.  All property, both real and personal, of the wife, owned or claimed by her before marriage, and that acquired afterwards by gift, devise, or descent, shall be her separate property, and laws shall be passed more clearly defining the rights of the wife, in relation as well to her separate property as that held in common with her husband.  Laws shall also be passed providing for the registration of the wife's separate property.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I have a substitute to propose for this section.  It is in the following words:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"Laws shall be passed more effectually securing to the wife the benefit of all property owned by her at her marriage, or acquired by her afterwards, by gift, demise, or bequest, or otherwise than from her husband."</P>
196.sgm:<P>It is not my intention at present to enter into any argument upon this question.  I would only state, generally, that I am opposed to the section as it stands, because I think it a matter of great importance, and goes to change entirely the nature of the married relations.  The relative rights of property of husband and wife, I think, are matters involving laws that can more safely be entrusted to the action of the Legislature, than introduced at once into one Constitution, and form part of the fundamental irrepealable law of the land.  I think that we tread upon dangerous ground when we make an invasion upon that system which has prevailed among ourselves and our ancestors for hundreds and hundreds of years.  The married relation is one from which flow all other relations.  It lies at the very foundation of society; the well-being, happiness, and morality of society, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The industrious business man, with his frugal wife, is not in any way affected by it; but if an idle, dissipated, visionary, or impractical man, brings his family to penury and want, then I say it is our duty to put this provision in the Constitution for the protection of that family who are helpless, and who have no other means of subsistence.  I see a disposition on the part of the House to oppose this provision.  Representing, as I do, a constituency entirely of native Californians, because the few Americans in my district are identified with them and may classed as native Californians, I am compelled, not against my wishes, for my wishes coincide with theirs, to advocate it on this floor.  I believe that much opposition to the protection of the separate property of the wife arises from a degree of false pride on the part of man; placing it in the position of a distinct and separate interest on the part of the wife, and regarding any thing that can bear such a construction as a reproach upon himself.  I look upon the marriage contract as a civil contract.  I consider that the wife's interest is the husband's interest; and whatever can afford protection and security to her, must necessarily be to his adtage as well as hers.  I trust, in consideration of the peculiar necessity which must exist here for such a provision, owing to the inducements for wild and hazardous speculations, and the probability of frequent and sudden losses which would otherwise involve families in ruin; in consideration, also, of the native population of California, who have always lived under this system, that it will become a part of our fundamental law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I am not wedded either to the common law or the civil law, nor as yet, to a woman; but having some hopes that some time or other I may be wedded, and wishing to avoid the fate of my friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Lippitt,) I shall advocate this section in the Constitution, and I would call upon all the bachelors in this Convention to vote for it.  I do not think we can offer a greater inducement for women of fortune to come to California.  It is the very best provision to get us wives that we can introduce into the Constitution.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. Chairman, I am so very unwell that I find it utterly impossible to give expression to the opinions that I entertain upon this subject.  I hope that the suggestions which are here thrown out may serve as a basis for some gentleman who coincides with me in opinion, to make such an elaborate argument upon as I find myself entirely incompetent to offer at this time.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  It will be remembered that this section proposed in the Constitution is, and always has been, the law of this country.  When we propose, therefore, to put it in the Constitution, we are not stepping upon untried ground.  We are only reiterating that which is already the law of the country.  For this reason, I am in favor of making it a constitutional provision.  It is no experiment in this country.  The main reason which the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Lippitt,) has so urgently presented against this provision, is that the common law will soon be the established law of this country.  If that is to be so, it will make a great change over the laws as they now exist, and will materially affect <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  Following after my able friend from San Jose, (Mr. Dimmick,) and being on the same side of the question, I feel some difficulty in giving expression to my views.  I shall say but few words on the subject, and, if it were not for hints thrown out from time to time, I should certainly, in my present exhausted state of health, say nothing.  But, sir, to this complexion has it come at last: but yesterday the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) inquired if there was to be an article introduced to adopt the common law, and but to-day the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Lipitt,) another member of the bar, arose in his seat and said this was a strange admixture, some horrible principle of the civil law, that gentlemen were going to incorporate in this Constitution.  Here is to be the battle-ground, and here will I meet the gentlemen.  I have yet to learn <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Will the gentleman permit me to interrupt him?  I was called to order here the other night for something that it was supposed I was going to say out of order.  He is reprehending me for something he supposes I am going to do.  Would it not be well to reserve his strictures until the article is introduced?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I understood the gentleman here and elsewhere to express his entire support of such an article.  The question which I asked was a sort of answer, in a plain way, to what had been adduced here as argument.  If gentlemen have a right to get up here and advocate a principle, and I have no right to get <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Sir, the member from San Francisco (Mr. Lippitt) says that there are two classes of wives--those who wear the breeches, and those who do not.  I admit the distinction; and where the woman wears the breeches, and intends to wear them, she will take advantage of this common law right and secure her property; but, sir, it is to those who do not wear the breeches--it is to those gentle and confiding creatures who do not think of contracts--that the protection of the law is designed to be given.  A man marries a woman of this kind, and owes debt after debt.  She knows nothing of it; she does not stop to inquire whether he owes debts or not.  No, sir, she enters into this contract blindly confident.  There is a true poesy in the confidence with which the woman yields herself to man, believing him to be all that is upright and honorable.  Now, would it not be a very poetical idea for one of these gentle and confiding creatures to ask the man to whom she had given her heart and pledged her hand, whether he owed his tailor or shoemaker? how many small bills he had outstanding? whether he was in the habit of being dunned or not?  Is she to say to him: let us go before a notary, sir, you to whom I have given my heart and hand; let us draw up a certain contract; I want certain lands and tenements secured by marriage contract.  Is not that a regular knock-down to poesy?  Let the law secure to this class of women their rights, for they have no power themselves to secure them.  I would never, under the common law, unite myself to a woman of wealth who would want me to draw up a marriage contract before the notary public.  This much for the rights of women.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, I suppose from the course that has been pursued here, and from the manifestations which I have seen of the sense of this House, that the common law is to be visited upon this country.  Very well, sir; I can stand it; I have practised under it and can comprehend it; but do not, I entreat you, make women the subject of its despotic provisions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I am in favor of the section as reported by the Committee, and being so, am of course, opposed to the substitute of my colleague, (Mr. Lippitt.)  I regret that, during this discussion, gentlemen should have made this a question between the common and the civil law.  It is taken for granted that if we adopt this section, or that of my colleague, we are going to adopt the civil or the common law.  I insist that that question has nothing to do with it; and that the whole course of argument, whether we are to adopt common or civil law is totally irrelevant to the question under consideration.  The question before the Committee is, whether or not we shall adopt a certain section as introduced here, providing for the security of property, both real and personal, of the wife.  The gentleman from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I have lately given to this House sufficient proof that any thing I shall say to-night, will probably be very crude; but, sir, my pulse would have to cease altogether before I could remain silent under such doctrines and propositions as have been broached here.  I find, sir, that the burden of this defence is resting altogether upon the shoulders of myself and the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Lippitt.)  I anticipated as much.  That you may know how it is, Mr. Chairman, that the common law views this contract, I will read you the words of one of the oldest commentators upon it: "By marriage" says Blackstone, "the husband and wife are one person in law."  (See Blackstone in full on this subject.)  This is but another mode of repeating the declaration of the Holy Book, that they are flesh of one flesh, and bone of bone.  That is the principle of the common law, and it is the principle of the bible.  It is a principle, Mr. Chairman, not only of poetry, but of wisdom, of truth, and of justice.  Sir, it is supposed by the common law that the woman says to the man in the beautiful language of Ruth: "Whither thou goest I will go; and where thou lodgest, I will lodge; thy people shall be my people, and thy God my God."  This, sir, is the character of that holy ceremony which gentlemen have considered as a mere money copartnership.  Sir, it is this view of that contract that has produced that peculiar and lovely English word <HI REND="italics">home</HI>
196.sgm:<P>There was one statement of my friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Lippitt,) that under the common law, ante-nuptial contracts were frequent.  So far as my experience goes, they are any thing but frequent.  The man who lacks the spirit of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>It has been my fortune this night, for the first time in my life, to hear the common law reviled; yes, sir, that which has been the admiration of all ages, and of the able and wise and learned of all climes, has been in this House, this night, spoken of with contempt and derision.  Sir, I would as soon think of slandering the mother to whom I owe my life, as I would the common law to which I owe my liberty.  Do you remember, Mr. Chairman, that it is to the common law that you owe the writ of habeas corpus, to which you have already paid the tribute of respect?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  The writ of habeas corpus is contained in the first Justinian.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken upon striking out the 13th section of the report, and inserting Mr. Lippitt's substitute, and it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 13th section was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 14th section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  The Legislature shall have power to protect by law, from forced sale, a certain portion of the property of all heads of families.  The homestead of a family not to exceed three hundred and twenty acres of land, (not included in a town or city,) or any town or city lot or lots in value not to exceed--dollars, shall not be subject to forced sale for any debts hereafter contracted, nor shall the owner, if a married man, be at liberty to alienate the same, unless by consent of the wife, in such manner as the Legislature may hereafter point out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said he thought the Legislature had that power already without any constitutional provision.  He therefore moved to strike out the words "have power to."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to amend by adding the following proviso: Provided, That the creditor who needs the money of the debtor to purchase a homestead, shall be entitled to recover it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  It seems to me that the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey is very reasonable.  I have observed these exemption laws, and am honestly of opinion that it is not right to exempt this homestead property.  It should be susceptible of proof that the debtor whom you propose to protect, is absolutely more in need of the exemption than the creditor.  I think it but fair that if you protect one man, you should also protect another, who is in the same situation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  It certainly is a matter of great surprise to me that a gentleman of such liberal and enlightened principles as he who offers to give his horse-ferry at Benicia to the public, should entertain such views as these.  This is only following out a principle of exemption adopted every where now in this enlightened age--that a man's means of living should be preserved to his family.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Botts' proviso, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT moved to insert after the word city, the word two thousand dollars.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Suppose a man should own a lot in a city worth $5,000, and he should owe a debt of $2,000; can you sell his lot?  I think this law as it is here framed is exceedingly incomplete, and we had better give it up altogether.  The case which I have mentioned does not come within this clause.  The house <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I move to strike out all after the word "families."  The section as it then stands will cover every case that properly comes before the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I shall be in favor of that, because it leaves the matter to the Legislature and people.  It belongs to the people, through their representatives in the Legislature, to say how far the Legislature shall go in this matter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I am really in earnest when I say I am not physically able to sustain my proposition.  I think this clause will protect every interest of the Legislature.  The object of this House is to give to the people certain fundamental principles upon which the Legislature is to act.  I am astonished when I hear gentlemen here so strenuous in their advocacy of the protection of the poor from the rich, that they should advocate a section that will go farther to defeat the adoption of this Constitution than perhaps any that has yet been proposed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I think there is no provision of the Constitution which would better meet the approbation of the mass of the people than this.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I concur with my friend from San Francisco (Mr. Steuart) as to the propriety of this section not being adopted as it stands; but I believe, with the addition of two words, so as perfectly to express the meaning of the section, that it will be acceptable to the house.  If the amendment before this House does not pass, I shall propose an amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENGRAFT.  I am in favor of the amendment of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Steuart,) for I think it is a legitimate subject of legislative action.  There is certainly property much more important to a man than his homestead.  Why do not the Committee go further, and specify his tools, his implements upon which his very existence depends?  In the State of Tennessee, the articles are specified.  This Committee may bring in a bill as long as that which we may expect in the famous schedule.  Why not, then, at once commit it to the hands of the Legislature, and let them say what shall be protected from seizure?</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Steuart's amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I now move to insert after the word "lot," the words "said land or lots not to exceed in value two thousand dollars."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I propose an amendment to the amendment; that these articles shall be included after the words specifying the value, "together with his mechanical tools and farming utensils, household furniture, two cows, two yoke of oxen, and five sheep."  In all seriousness, Mr. Chairman, I offer it.  I do think it is due to the section itself, if gentlemen wish to put it through in complete form, that it should be so.  What would be a man's household, his home to him, if that home was stripped of every thing in it?  What protection do you give to a man in his humble home, if you deprive him of the means of earning a subsistence?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I would remark that, if this amendment is lost, I hope my friend from San Joaquin (Mr. Wozencraft) will present it to the House at the proper time, and ask the yeas and nays upon it.  We will then test the sincerity of gentlemen who profess to be friends of the poor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Wozencraft's amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I regret now that I did not vote for the amendment of the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Steuart.)  I see the difficulty which has since been suggested.  I cannot perceive how it is possible with this provision of the Constitution, as no law of the Legislature can go behind the Constitution, to divide the city or town lot which exceeds in value $2,000.  It may be worth $20,000.  I do not see how it is possible for the Legislature to take from this homestead $2,000 out of the $20,000.  It had better be left to the Legislature to make such guards in relation to it as they deem expedient.  I woud simply make it the duty of the Legislature to pass laws for the protection of the homestead.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE.  I am sorry I voted against the amendment of my friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Steuart,) and that it was not adopted.  I would, if the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Halleck) is not adopted, move this, which I think covers the whole ground: "homestead and other property."  I would observe that there is other property more valuable to the head of the family than his homestead.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I think the Legislature have the power to do this without saying it in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I wish to remark this; I want the amendment which I offer to pass merely as an amendment.  I am not in favor of the original section.  I desire to make it as perfect as it can be, in case the House think proper to adopt it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I am willing to vote for the amendment of the gentleman for that purpose.  If the section is to be adopted, I wish it to be in the least objectionable form.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Halleck's amendment, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  There is no possible way that the Supreme Court can divide at present a lot such as I have mentioned in value, $20,000, or a ranch of three hundred acres, if it is a homestead, although it may be much more valuable than $2,000; but if the Supreme Court could decide it, any attempt to prevent the sale of that valuable property by the Legislature is unconstitutional.  I think the majority of the House agree that a homestead should be free from sale on execution from a debt; and as we are changing year after year in this new State, as the value of property is changing, it may be necessary year after year for the Legislature to amend the acts of the previous year.  Each Legislature will, or ought to know, more than its predecessors; it is to be presumed of course that experience will be gained by future Legislatures; and I think we had better leave the subject open to them, simply directing them to preserve a certain portion of the homestead.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the vote on Mr. Steuart's amendment was reconsidered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the adoption of the section, as amended--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT moved to insert the word "homestead" before property.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I understand the reason the gentleman goes in favor of this section is that the Legislature will be opposed to the object in view, and the provision is therefore necessary in order to compel the Legislature to do it.  Now, sir, if the Legislature, which certainly reflects the will of the people, object to it, if we anticipate such a result, it certainly forms a strong ground of objection.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I would ask why, if gentlemen have such implicit confidence in the Legislature, they voted in favor of prohibiting the practice of duelling and other restrictive clauses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  The reason is that we don't understand the word Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I think it belongs to the members of the Legislature coming directly from the people to say what amount, and precisely what articles, shall be exempted.  The word "homestead" is indefinite.  It may include a homestead to the value of $100,000, or any other amount.  If we insert homestead, we might as well insert cattle, sheep, bottles of wine, and all other kinds of property.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Tefft's amendment, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section as amended was then adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  The Legislature shall protect by law, from forced sale, a certain portion of the homestead and other property of heads of families.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I now wish to introduce in this bill the resolution which has been before the Committee for the last two days, relative to the establishment of hospitals.  It is in the following words:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall at an early day provide for the erection of one or more suitable building or buildings, to be designated and used as a public hospital or hospitals, to be located at such place or places as shall best subserve the good and welfare of suffering humanity; and shall provide for the support and maintenance of the same, out of such funds as are not otherwise appropriated.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I can go for considerable legislation in the Constitution, but I cannot go quite so far as this.  I think that the Legislature ought to entertain all those feeling of charity for suffering humanity that we do; and if they do, and if it is the desire of their constitutents, they will unquestionably raise money enough to provide for the insane, or blind, or sick.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I was much in hopes this would pass without a word of debate, and certainly without a word of opposition.  I think it strange that the gentleman over the way, (Mr. Sherwood,) has no compunctions of conscience in prohibiting the Legislature from relieving suffering humanity.  There are many clauses introduced into the Constitution of minor importance compared with this.  We certainly ought to provide measures of relief for those who are stricken down by disease.  If there is any land where an establishment of this kind is required, it is California.  A great class of persons who have come to California, or are now coming, are exposed to all the vicissitudes of the climate--a climate most trying to the human constitution; and in a country where there is no shelter for the sick, no spot upon which they can lay their heads, I think the sufferings of this class of people appeal to us in the strongest manner.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  It is too late in the day, and certainly too late in the night for us to question the propriety of this species of legislation.  We have been erecting sundry castles in the air, and why not erect the castle proposed by the gentleman from San Joaquin?  Let us go on; let us legislate!  Gentlemen seem to labor under the idea that we are never to have a Legislature.  Then let us go on and make laws complete for black and white, for male and female, for the lame, halt, and blind.  We have provided for the living in every possible form; now let us provide for the dying and the dead.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I have but one word to say.  This is not a castle in the air; it purports to be nothing more than a structure upon earth for the purpose of relieving suffering persons on earth.  It is true we have done much for all classes, but there is still another class whose claims are greater than any who have been provided for--the sick and the destitute.  Let us suppose a case--such a case of suffering as I have myself often seen here.  A poor destitute man, who has been left sick on the way side, is taken by some charitable teamster to the nearest town.  The charitable citizens of that place he probably calls upon to provide him with some place upon which he can lay his head; he asks nothing more; he merely seeks a place of shelter, where nature may produce a restoration of his health.  But they can give him no encouragement, they have no room for him.  If he complains, he is told, do not say so, we have an excellent Constitution; there are plenty of places to put you in if you steal, where you will be boarded for nothing.  If you die, we will take care of your children.  Is there anything airy in that?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  Yes, sir, very.  It looks to me as much like building castles in the air as any proposition I ever heard of.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed section, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I have a very short section to offer here:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No perpetuities shall be allowed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It is to prevent perpetuity of lands from families to families.  It is upon perpetuities that aristocracies are built up.  Democracy would soon be overturned if this was allowed.  The principle is so well established that all our courts of law have made it a rule, in the absence of any statute upon the subject.  Whenever they could possibly put any such construction upon any deed or instrument they have deemed themselves bound to do it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 15,16,17, and 18 were then adopted without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 15.  Every person shall be disqualified from holding any office of profit in this State who shall have been convicted of having given or offered a bribe to procure his election or appointment.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>SEC. 16.  Laws shall be made to exclude from office, serving on juries, and from the right of suffrage, those who shall hereafter be convicted of bribery, forgery, perjury, or other high crimes.  The privilege of free suffrage shall be supported by laws regulating elections, and prohibiting, under adequate penalties, all undue influence thereon from power, bribery, tnmult, or other improper practice.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 17.  Absence on the business of this State, or of the United States, shall not forfeit a residence once obtained, so as to deprive any one of the right of suffrage, or of being elected or appointed to any office under this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 18.  A plurality of the votes given at an election, shall constitute a choice, where not otherwise directed in this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO offered the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>All laws, decrees, regulations, and provisions emanating from any of the three supreme powers of this State, which from their nature require publication, shall be published in English and Spanish.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I believe a section has already been adopted, providing that all laws, &amp;c., shall be published in Spanish as well as in English.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  We must take care what we are doing here.  If I understand the resolution, as I heard it read, it is to engraft in the Constitution that all laws shall be published in Spanish and English.  That is a necessity so clear that the Legislature must at once perceive and provide for it; but we cannot but foresee here, that the day will soon arrive when every man in the State will understand the English language.  If you engraft this upon the Constitution, you impose an immense and permanent expense upon the people--an expense for which there will be no necessity in a few years.  The Legislature will provide for the translation and publication of these laws in Spanish as long as it is necessary.  It is one of those things that are vacillating, and should not be put in the permanent fundamental law of the land.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO.  The reason why I make this proposition is, that since this country has been under the American Government, in general all decrees have been published in English.  In Santa Barbara, there has been no interpreter at all, and I myself, though my knowledge of the English language is imperfect, have been compelled to translate several public documents.  I desire to put it in the Constitution for this reason: that however natural and obvious it may appear that the Legislature should take care of it, the experience of three years has proved that such things may be neglected.  The proposition may seem of trival consequence to some; but to me, and those whom I represent, is one of very great importance.  The present inhabitants of California will not learn the English language in three or four years; their children may do it; but at present, all laws ought to be published in a language which the people understand, so that every native Californian shall not be at the expense of procuring his own interpreter; and moreover, you will bear in mind that the laws which will hereafter be published, will be very different from those which they obeyed formerly.  They cannot obey laws unless they understand them.  I do not believe that in six years the adult Spanish population will be able to speak English; but in twenty years they may; and by that time it is very probable that the present Constitution will be altered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT moved to amend, by providing that these laws and decrees shall be published in Spanish for a certain number of year.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  In support of the section offered by the gentleman from Santa Barbara, I would state that it has been nearly fifty years since Louisiana came into the Union, and they have published laws there in English, French, and Spanish, ever since.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT, I am in favor of inserting this provision as drawn up by the gentleman from Santa Barbara.  I have no doubt the Legislature will do it; but in order to satisfy the California population, I think it well to insert this provision in the Constitution.  No inconvenience will grow out of it.  In the course of ten or twenty years, everybody will speak English, and it will then be a very easy matter to have the Constitution altered in that respect.  There is this especially in favor of it--that it will satisfy the minds of the whole California population.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I withdraw any opposition to the measure.  I did not know the practice in Louisiana; and only looked at it connection with this Constution as a transient provision introduced into an instrument made for an indefinite period.  I hope my motives will not be misunderstood.  But I have one word to say in relation to my friend from Santa Barbara.  I solemnly protest against his taking what has been done here for the last three years, as a specimen of the actings or doings of the people of the United States in their political capacity.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO.  When I mentioned that the laws and decrees had been published merely in English hitherto, I had no wish to wound the feelings of the gentleman or any person whatever.  I merely referred to actual facts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I will merely add, that the Government which existed here for the last three years, was not the republican Government that we hope to exist here soon.  The gentleman must not judge of the character of our American institutions from that.  It was a mere military, despotic government, not recognized by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  The proposition is so reasonable that I trust it will be unanimously adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the proposed section was unanimously adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee then rose, reported the article with sundry amendment, and had leave to sit again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, from the Committee on the Constitution, laid before the Convention the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Chairman of the Select Committee is requested to ask instructions from the Convention, as to whether the government established by this Constitution shall go into operation from and after the day of its ratification by the people, or not until official news is received of the admission of California into the Union as a State.<HSEP>M. NORTON, <HI REND="italics">Chairman</HI>
196.sgm:.<HSEP>In order to obtain the sense of the Convention, Mr. NORTON offered the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the subject was laid on the table, and the House then adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by the Rev. S.H. Willey.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Journal of yesterday was read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT, from the Committee on Printing, made a report, which was read and laid on the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The following resolution, offered yesterday by Mr. Norton, was then taken up for consideration:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  It is with great reluctance, Mr. President, that I undertake the discussion of the important questions involved in this resolution.  They are questions novel in their character, momentous in their consequences, and deeply interesting to every American citizen.  And yet, sir, what are the circumstances under which we are called on to vote upon it.  Last night, at 11 o'clock, we were furnished with the first notice of its introduction, and this morning, at 10 o'clock, we are called to the discussion of it.  It must be remembered, too, that we are here without the opportunities of reference that are usually afforded; I believe I should hardly be exaggerating were I to say that there are not fifty volumes of law or history in all Monterey; nevertheless, with such poor opportunity as has been afforded me, and out of such slender materials as I could command, I will endeavor to weave an argument in support of the resolution offered by my friend, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Under ordinary circumstances, this resolution itself, much less any defence of it, would appear to be a work of supererogation.  The resolution would seem to contain the statement of a self-evident proposition.  But, sir, this proposition, plain as it may appear, has been denied; denied in this hall and elsewhere; in this hall by implication, and out of doors flatly and plainly.  It has been asserted that the Constitution that we shall make, and the people of California may ratify, is but the cold statue of Pygmalion, until the Promethean heat has been breathed into it by the Congress of the United States.  It has been asserted that there is a government, and that there are laws now existing in this country, that can be superseded only by the legislative action of the Union.  It is this doctrine that I propose calmly, deliberately, and dispassionately to investigate.  The most tangible and the most authentic assertion of this doctrine is to be found in the proclamation of General Riley, under which we were convened.  In reviewing this document, I shall exercise the unquestioned and unquestionable right of every representative of the people, aye, sir, the right of every individual of the people, to examine narrowly and discuss freely the acts of their servants.  I shall not, nor have I ever, indulged in personalities of any kind, so far as an avoidance of them is compatible with a full, free, and unlimited discussion of the doings and sayings of men in their public capacities.  When the two become, as they sometimes do, inseparably connected, I will not shrink from my duty in considering the one, because it may involve feelings of delicacy in regard to the other.</P>
196.sgm:<P>General Riley is a noble old soldier; he is what, in my opinion, it is a much higher honor to be--he is a devoted friend of the rights of man.  But he neither seeks nor claims the title of statesman; he is content with that of hero.  I will read you the first column of his proclamation:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"Congress having failed at its recent session to provide a new government for this country, to replace that which existed on the annexation of California to the United States, the undersigned would call attention to the means which he deems best calculated to avoid the embarassments of our present position.</P>
196.sgm:<P>"The undersigned, in accordance with instructions from the Secretary of War, has assumed the administration of civil affairs in California, not as a <HI REND="italics">military</HI>
196.sgm: Governor, but as the executive of the existing civil government.  In the absence of a properly appointed civil Governor, the commanding officer of the Department, is, by the laws of California, <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
196.sgm: civil Governor of the country, and the instructions from Washington were based on the provisions of these laws.  This subject has been misrepresented, or at least misconceived, and currency given to the impression that the government of the country is still <HI REND="italics">military</HI>
196.sgm:.  Such is not the fact.  The military government ended with the war, and what remains is the <HI REND="italics">civil</HI>
196.sgm: government recognized in the existing laws of California.  Although the command of the troops in this Department, and the administration of civil affairs in California, are, by the existing laws of the country, and the instructions of the President of the United States, temporarily lodged in the hands of the same individual, they are separate an distinct.  No military officer other than the commanding General of the Department exercises any civil authority by virtue of his military commission, and the powers of the commanding General as <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
196.sgm:<P>"The laws of California, not inconsistent with the laws, constitution, and treaties of the United States, are still in force, and must continue in force, till changed by competent authority.  Whatever may be thought of the right of the people to temporarily replace the officers of the existing government appointed by a provisional Territorial Legislature, there can be no question that the existing laws of the country must continue in force till replaced by others made and enacted by competent power.  <HI REND="italics">That power, by the treaty of peace, as well as from the nature of the case, is vested in Congress</HI>
196.sgm:.  The situation of California in this respect is very different from that of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Here, then, we have it clearly and distinctly asserted, that a government exists, and that laws are in force in California which must continue in force until repealed by competent legislative powers; and that that power is necessarily the Congress of the United States.  Let us see how far this doctrine, which we are told is that of the Secretary of War, comports with the opinions expressed by other members of the cabinet, and how far it is sustained by principles of law and republicanism.  In his message of July, 1848, the President of the United States says:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"The war with Mexico having terminated, the power of the Executive to establish or to continue temporary civil governments over these Territories, which existed under the laws of nations whilst they were regarded as conquered provinces in our military occupation, has ceased.  By their cession to the United States, Mexico has no longer any power over them; and, until Congress shall act, the inhabitants will be without any organized government.  Should they be left in this condition, confusion and anarchy will be likely to prevail."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Says General Riley and the Secretary of War, an organized government exists; says the commanding officer of the one and the superior of the other, there is no organized government.  What a division upon this important subject there must have been in the cabinet of Mr. Polk, when the President expresses one opinion to Congress, and the Secretary forwards his instructions in direct opposition to them.  Nevertheless, the President seems to adhere to his first opinions with a good deal of tenacity.  In his December message, he says:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"Upon the exchange of ratifications of the treaty of peace with Mexico on the thirtieth of May last, the temporary governments which had been established over New Mexico and California by our military and naval commanders, by virtue of the rights of war, ceased to derive any obligatory force from that source of authority; and having been ceded to the United States, all government and control over them under the authority of Mexico had ceased to exist.  Impressed with the necessity of establishing Territorial Governments over them, I recommended the subject to the favorable consideration of Congress in my message communicating the ratification of peace, on the sixth of July last, and invoked their action at that session.  Congress adjourned without making any provision for their government.  The inhabitants, by the transfer of their country, had become entitled to the benefits of our laws and Constitution, and yet were left without any regularly organized government.  Since that time, the very limited power possessed by the Executive has been exercised to preserve and protect them from the inevitable consequences of a state of anarchy.  The only government which remained, was that established by the military authority during the war.  Regarding this to be a <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Here he repeats the old assertion that there is no regularly organized government in California.  "Regarding, says the President, the military government established during the war as a <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm: government, and that, by the presumed <HI REND="italics">consent of the inhabitants</HI>
196.sgm:, it might be continued temporarily, they were <HI REND="italics">advised</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Now mark: the President considers the despotic military government established during the war, consisting of a military Governor alone, in whom were concentrated the legislative, executive, and judicial departments, as the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm: government, which may continue to exist by the consent of the people.  Gen. Riley, and, as he says, the Secretary of War, conceive that the existing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:government is <HI REND="italics">civil</HI>
196.sgm: not <HI REND="italics">military</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  Will the gentleman allow me to interrupt him?  That communication was not only sent overland, with the expectation of reaching here a long time previous to the arrival of Mr. Voorhies, but the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  If we had a civil governor here, how dare the President put such a slight upon that governor and upon the people, as to address the people of California through an inferior and subordinate agent?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I would inform the gentleman that Mr. Voorhies was the only officer of the United States through which that communication could be sent.  There was no other officer here up to that time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I do not think my colleague is so sensitive in regard to the honor of California as I am, or he would more readily perceive the objections that I have to this communication.  It is not the source through which it came to the Governor of California, but it is that it was not addressed to the Governor of California.  It commences "My dear Voorhies."  That is what I object to.  It does not matter when it came here.  It is the address and character of the letter; addressed to an inferior functionary.  I believe it is a well established principle of etiquette, both in military and civil departments, that you communicate with the highest authority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  The gentleman from Monterey does not seem to know quite so much about this matter as he would have us think.  Not only was the letter sent to the Governor here, but an apology was sent with it, that if the other letter did not arrive with the Governor, he (Mr. Voorhies) was to take this and circulate it among the people.  It is usual both in civil and military matters to send the communication directly to the highest officer, and then others are sent to subordinate officers in case the first should not arrive.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I will not be blamed for my ignorance, for I could know nothing but this paper; and certainly it bears a very different sort of statement.  I am glad an apology was made to California, and I only wish the people of California had had an opportunity of knowing of that apology before.  I am happy, sir, to be the humble means through which California is to hear that apology.  I will not refer again to the beginning of the letter which I hold in my hand; it is fraught with information upon the subject; but I will confine myself more properly to that portion of it which bears upon the particular subject under discussion.  I call your particular attention to this letter, because we are now told that it was expressly intended that the Governor of California should make it known as the sentiments of the administration.  It is, in short, if I understand it, instructions to the Governor of California Mr. Buchanan in the course of this letter remarks:</P>
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196.sgm:<P>"In the meantime, the condition of the people of California is anomalous, and will require on their part the exercise of great prudence and discretion.  By the conclusion of the treaty of peace, the military government which was established over them under the laws of war, as recognized by the practice of civilized nations, has ceased to derive its authority from this source of power.  But is there, for this reason, no government in California?  Are life, liberty, and property, under the protection of no existing authorities?  This would be a singular phenomenon in the face of the world, and especially among American citizens, distinguished as they are above all other people for their law abiding character.  Fortunately they are not reduced to this sad condition.  The termination of the war left an existing government--a government <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Here is a repetition of the repeated doctrine of the President, of a <HI REND="italics">de facto military</HI>
196.sgm: government, continued and existing only at the will of the people.  The question that Mr. Buchanan raises is this, what is the natural and legal inference to be derived from the <HI REND="italics">inaction</HI>
196.sgm: of the people of California?  He answers, an implied assent to the continuance of the government they found in existence at the close of the war, be it what it may.  The proposition, and the argument by which it is maintained, are based upon the supposed passiveness of the people.  Indeed by the very terms of the proposition itself, the power of the people to relieve themselves from anarchy by passive submission to the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm:<P>In General Riley's proclamation, we find the principle stated as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"The undersigned, in accordance with instructions from the Secretary of War, has assumed the administration of civil affairs in California, not as a <HI REND="italics">military</HI>
196.sgm: Governor, but as the Executive of the existing civil government.  In the absence of a properly appointed civil Governor, the commanding officer of the department is, by the laws of California, <HI REND="italics">ex-officio</HI>
196.sgm:<P>We are informed, then, that General Riley has been sent amongst us as "the Executive of the existing civil government in California."  If he were sent for that purpose alone, he might well return to those that sent him, and inform them that he found no civil government in California--that none such had existed for years, and that the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm: or existing government which the treaty of peace extinguished, was of a character purely military, and that in fact, from that time to the present, no government, either <HI REND="italics">military</HI>
196.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">civil</HI>
196.sgm:, had existed in California.  What, sir, is meant by the term government?  I apprehend it may be defined to be the supreme power to whom is entrusted the authority to legislate and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:adjudicate and execute.  Can it be pretended that any such authority has been established since the declaration of peace?  It is not even pretended that there is or has been an organized <HI REND="italics">existing</HI>
196.sgm: government authorized to exercise the functions of legislation in California.  Hence, this great essential being confessedly wanting, it is absurd to talk about the existing government in California.  Indeed, in this very document (I mean the proclamation of General Riley) we are told that the Congress of the United States alone possesses the power to legislate for California.  In that body, then, resides the existing government of California; and by that body, as we all know, General Riley has been invested with no civil functions.  But after assuming that a civil government actually exists in California, General Riley informs us that he claims to exercise the powers of civil Governor, not in consequence of any authority derived from the only body who, in his opinion, are entitled to govern California, but from an act of that Mexican Congress that has ceased to possess any power or authority in this country.  That is to say, to the right of the people to form a government, he opposes the power of the Congress of the United States; and to sustain his own position and what he calls the existing government, he quotes the authority of the Congress of Mexico.  Such opposite and conflicting arguments are the inevitable result of doctrines so false and preposterous.  If the people of California are precluded from exercising the powers of self-government by reason of the controlling authority vested in the Government of the United States, <HI REND="italics">a fortiori</HI>
196.sgm:<P>"The usage of the world is, if a nation be not entirely subdued, to consider the holding of conquered territory as a mere military occupation, until its fate shall be determined at the treaty of peace.  If it be ceded by the treaty, the acquisition is confirmed, and the ceded territory <HI REND="italics">becomes a part of the nation</HI>
196.sgm: to which it is annexed, either on the terms stipulated in the treaty of cession, or on such as its new master shall enforce.  On such transfer of territory, it has never be held that the relations of the inhabitants with <HI REND="italics">each other</HI>
196.sgm: undergo any change.  Their relations with their former sovereign are dissolved, and new relations are created between them and the government which has acquired the territory.  The same act which transfers their country, transfers the allegiance of those who remain in it; and the law which <HI REND="italics">may be denominated</HI>
196.sgm: POLITICAL <HI REND="italics">is necessarily changed</HI>
196.sgm:, although that which regulates the intercourse and general conduct of individuals remains in force <HI REND="italics">until altered</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Now, sir, I would ask, what is the nature of the law which may be denominated political, that is necessarily abolished by the act which transfers the country?  Is it not that class of laws, which, in contradistinction to the <HI REND="italics">municipal</HI>
196.sgm:<P>But we are gravely assured that the law of Mexico provides, that in the absence of a civil Governor, the civil authority devolves upon the military commander of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:the department, <HI REND="italics">ex-officio</HI>
196.sgm: opinions of John Marshall have been confirmed by the admiring assent of the legal world; but the <HI REND="italics">political</HI>
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196.sgm:<P>With this reference to the history, the character, the party prepossessions and prejudices of the late Supreme Court of the United States, I will proceed to examine the doctrine of Territorial Governments, as laid down by that body.  Let us remember that one great distinction between the two parties that agitated the country was this.  The Federal party, called Whigs at the present day, instinctively the advocates of governmental power, by a liberal, or, as I would say, strained construction of the Constitution, claimed for the Congress of the United States much more extensive powers than the straight-laced Republicans or Democrats of the present day, were willing to allow them.  We shall see how this destructive feature worked in the present case.  In the case of the American Ins. Co.  <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
196.sgm:.  Canter, 1 Peters, before referred to, the Court lay down the broad ground that the control of Congress over the inhabitants of acquired territory is supreme, despotic, and unlimited; and this extraordinary, anti-republican, and unholy claim, is based upon a clause in the Constitution of the United States.  It is a slander upon the liberty breathing spirit of that instrument to say so; it would subvert the very end and object of its creation, which was to uphold, not destroy, the liberties of mankind.  Let an unsophisticated enquirer read that instrument through, and I apprehend he would be much at a loss to discover the clause from which the Supreme Court derived this power for the Congress of the United States.  Would he not be surprised to hear that it was the one which simply declares that "the Congress shall have power to dispose of and make all needful rules and regulations respecting the territory and other property belonging to the United States?"  After hunting, with argus eyes, through the whole instrument, for something to support this favorite theory of government prerogative, they candidly confess that this is all they can find.  Remember that this is a great substantive power, opposed to the whole tenor and spirit of the Constitution, and one so despotic and so antirepublican in its character, that it can hardly expect any of the benefits of implication, at the hands of a freeman at least.  The authority which contradicts the Declaration of Independence, and disfranchises a people, and reduces them to the condition of serfs and vassals, must be clearly, distinctly, and unequivocally granted.  Let us see whether, under this rule, the clause in question supports the inference drawn from it.  The word territory is <HI REND="italics">now</HI>
196.sgm: used in two senses; the first, material in its nature, to signify landed property; and the other, political, to denote the peculiar organization that has been instituted for the people inhabiting the territorial or landed property of the United States.  The latter is metaphorical, and by a very common figure of speech, derived from the former.  The first, or material sense, was certainly the only one known to the framers of the Constitution, because the second is a term applied to a creation subsequent to the adoption of the Constitution.  At that time there was no such thing as a Territory, in the sense of a Territorial Government; the word had no such meaning, and therefore it never could have been used in that sense.  The claimants of this power create a new thing--steal an old word to express it--and then claim all the perquisites of the old word for the new thing.  The public lands are the <HI REND="italics">territory</HI>
196.sgm: of the United States, and this clause authorises the Congress to dispose of and make all needful rules and regulations respecting it, and the <HI REND="italics">other property</HI>
196.sgm: of the Union.  It surely requires a Federal stretch of imagination to discover any other meaning it.  But let us understand the word territory in the sense in which the Supreme Court supposes it to have been used--that is to say, the inhabitants of the territory instead of the territory itself.  It would then read: the Congress shall have power to <HI REND="italics">dispose</HI>
196.sgm: of and make all needful rules and regulations for the government of the inhabitants of the territory of the United States.  If under this clause Congress can govern the people of a territory, it may unquestionably "dispose" of them, as of "other property" of the United States.  And, as there is no limit nor measure to this disposing power, they may constitutionally sell them like sheep in the shambles, at so much a head, whenever they can find a purchaser, and the wants of the Government may require it.  All this they have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:a right to do the <HI REND="italics">territory</HI>
196.sgm:, forts, arsenals, ships, horses, mules, and "other property" of the United States.  If human beings are included in the clause at all, they are put upon the same footing as "other property," and are as much liable to be disposed of as they are to be regulated.  The proposition, except for the source from whence it comes, is not worthy of a moment's notice.  The Court itself seems rather to distrust the sufficiency of this argument, and seeks therefore to bolster it up by a claim from another source--they allude to the treaty-making power and the inherent rights of sovereignty.  If there is one position of the Federal party more false and more dangerous than another, it is the extent to which they carry the treaty-making power of the United States.  Treaties are binding only when they are made in pursuance, at least not in opposition, to the spirit and object of the Constitution.  If they controvert the one or oppose the other, they are null and void; and it behooves all those upon whose action the execution of the treaty depends, to watch and carefully guard this sacred instrument from desecration by this insidious means.  It is a monstrous doctrine, subversive of all the checks and balances established against the abuse of power, that to the Executive and Senate, Congress is bound to surrender its conscience and its judgment, and simply register the decrees of this bloated branch of the Government.  A treaty that lies any portion of the human race hand and foot, and surrenders them to the despotic authority of a government in which they are not represented, is <HI REND="italics">malum in se</HI>
196.sgm:, and therefore void; is repugnant to the dictates of christianity and the established principles of freedom; is subversive of the chartered liberties of mankind, and is therefore to be spurned and contemned by every christian and every freeman.  The doctrine of America is, that the liberties of the human race are not the subject of traffic or of <HI REND="italics">treaty</HI>
196.sgm:; the law of England denies that a man can barter away his own liberty, and we deny, <HI REND="italics">a fortiori</HI>
196.sgm:, that any government can sell or <HI REND="italics">cede</HI>
196.sgm: away the liberty of its subjects.  Any treaty expressly providing for the effect implied by the Supreme Court, made in the present age, would tarnish the reputation of the most despotic monarch in civilized Europe.  So much for the doctrine of cession.  That of conquest rests exactly upon the same basis.  Is it possible that the supreme judicial tribunal of that republican government, which has been a pillar of light to the groping children of freedom in the Eastern hemisphere, has sanctioned the doctrine that the liberties of a people may be subverted by force of arms; and that a nation may be lawfully reduced to bondage by the right of conquest?  Why, sir, to conquer and reduce to slavery the negro of Africa, has been declared by the enlightened nations of the earth to be a crime equal to that of piracy itself; is the enslaving a white man less criminal than that of a negro?  Remember, sir, the dismemberment of the Republic of Cracow; remember the curses, loud and deep, that were heaped upon the doers of that foul deed, and do not forget that under the doctrine of the Supreme Court, this was all legal, right, and proper, because this little republic was overthrown, dismembered, and parcelled out by <HI REND="italics">conquest</HI>
196.sgm: and by <HI REND="italics">treaty</HI>
196.sgm: --the only <HI REND="italics">legitimate</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The inherent right of sovereignty is the antiquated, obsolete, <HI REND="italics">Dei gratia</HI>
196.sgm:<P>It is upon these grounds, sir, that I hold, and have ever held, that the Congress of the United States had no warrant or authority for the passage of the bill to collect revenue in California--that in doing so, they transcended the powers with which they are invested, and violated every principle of republican freedom.  Much has been said her about the political aspirations of the honorable members of this House; but, for my own part, I have no higher ambition than one day to stand before the Supreme Court of the United States, as it is at present constituted, to argue the unconstitutionality of that infamous bill.  Why, sir, it was an act infinitely less unjust than this, that, in olden time, stirred men's blood, and lighted <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:a flame in the rebellious Colonies, that nothing but freedom and independence ever extinguished.  This right of absolute government claimed for the Congress of the United States, and supported by the decision of the Supreme Court, involves exactly the question between Great Britain and the Colonies.  To proves this, needs no more than a few quotations from Story's commentaries on the Constitution.  Vol. 1, p. 181, we find the following:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The principal grounds on which Parliament asserted the right to make laws to bind the colonies in all cases whatsoever, were, amongst others, that the Territories were dependencies of the realm, and that the legislative power over the colonies is supreme and sovereign."</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Tory, Justice Blackstone, v. 1, 107, foreshadowing the doctrine of the Supreme Court, insists that the American Colonies are principally to be deemed conquered or ceded countries, and therefore he asserts, "the common law of England which secures the liberty of the subject, has no force there; they being no part of the mother country, but distinct, though dependent dominions."  "This doctrine of Mr. Justice Blackstone," says Judge Story, book 1, p. 139, "may will admit of serious doubt upon general principles."  And yet the same Judge Story declares, that the same doctrine, even carried to a greater extent by the Supreme Court, when applied to the limited government of the United States, is unquestionably correct.  Hear what the Congress of the nine colonies assembled at New York in October, 1765, had to say upon this subject of taxation without representation.  They say, "it is inseparably essential to the freedom of a people, that no taxes be imposed on them but with their own consent, given personally or by their representatives."  Judge Story tells us that, in the early stages of the discontent, the general powers of Parliament over the Colonies was not denied; but that subsequent events drove them to a more close and narrow survey of the foundation of parliamentary supremacy; doubts were soon infused into their minds; and from doubts they passed by an easy transition to a denial, first of the power of taxation, and next of all, authority whatever to bind them by its laws.  And exactly the same fate, I venture to predict, awaits a more close and narrow survey of the doctrine that the Congress of the United States can bind by its law, the unrepresented people of a Territory.  The doctrine and the argument in both cases are precisely the same; they have been settled, at least for us, by that Revolution of which we love to boast; and I will not trouble you further with a discussion of them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I commenced, sir, with the doctrine of the Secretary of War; I will conclude with that of the Secretary of the Navy, as I find it reported in the newspapers of the day.  I knew William Ballard Preston well--he is my foster brother--twenty years ago we drew milk together from the breast of the same <HI REND="italics">alma mater</HI>
196.sgm:<P>"A people kept in territorial bonds, are under oppression.  Our fathers intended to bring every American into the Union.  It was a broad, wide platform; popular sovereignty resides with the people.  The principle is that the trust with us must be surrendered at the first moment of time.  Before this bill could go into operation, there will be a population there of two hundred thousand souls, twice or thrice as large as any State ever was when she came into the Union.  Who is there who can stand back, and refuse to surrender the trust on any grounds--personal, political or partisan?  None can, and none ought.  The bill but holds that truth, which is seen and felt all over the earth--the great truth, that popular constitutional government is the great sustaining machine of the age, possessing within it all the virtue, all the strength, and wisdom necessary for its creation, its solidity, and its permanence.  He submitted to no master to direct its force, no king or ruler to control its action, but left it to the people--the source of legitimate power.  Let the people themselves determine the character of their local institutions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>"There was never a field so wide and long for a patriot to die on as the present one.  Let them forget party and sectional differences.  At the North and at the South there are extremes, but there is a middle ground, a great republican party.  He did not mean of whigs and democrats.  Their principles are embodied in this bill.  There is a republican highway, in which we all may walk in peace.  If this proposition be carried, that the people of these territories are entitled to govern for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>For the reasons I have given, I conclude then, sir, that there is no existing government in California; that the right to institute one is inherent in the people; that, by the exercise of this right, they can alone prepare themselves for admission into the Confederacy of the United States; that until they become a member of the Union, Congress have no authority whatever to legislate for the people of California, and that, from the moment of its ratification, this Constitution becomes the supreme law of the land, and the government it creats the only one that ought to be recognized in California.  I shall therefore vote for the resolution</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I have no disposition to prolong this discussion, or reply in any way to the remarks of the gentleman from Monterey.  I think we have enough else to do, without attempting to reconcile conflicting decisions of the Supreme Court, or to reconcile any conflicts of opinion between the present and the past Cabinets.  If the instructions from the Secretary of State, Mr. Buchanan, conflict with the instruction of the Secretary of War, Mr. Marcy, let them reconcile the matter themselves; if there was a division of opinion in that Cabinet on this subject, let them settle it.  If the instructions from Mr. Clayton and Mr. Crawford, officers of the present Cabinet, conflict with the opinions of Mr. Preston, as known in Congress, and there be a division in the present Cabinet, let them settle it.  If General Riley, in his course here, has acted contrary to his instructions, let the powers that sent him here, and the powers that instructed him, hold him responsible for it.  I have no desire at all to go into any discussion on that subject.  If we attempt to discuss the question as to the correctness of the decisions of the Supreme Court, I think it will take us a long time to get at the bottom of it.  In my mind, the question before the House narrows itself down to this point, and it is the point presented in the resolution of the Committee.  Is it politic for us to set the wheels of the new Government in motion as speedily as possible after the ratification of the Constitution by the people, or is it politic for us to wait until it is ratified by Congress?  I, for one, shall vote to put the new Government in operation as soon as may be convenient--the question of convenience to be decided hereafter.  I am very certain (I give it only as my opinion) that no opposition will be made, either from Washington, or any party here, to that course.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES had certain doubts in his mind as to the unqualified right of any territory belonging to the government of the United States to establish a State Government and put it in operation without the sanction of the General Government.  With regard to the municipal laws of the State, he thought that right could not be disputed, but he was not prepared to assert the absolute sovereignty, independent of any control or action on the part of the General Government, of a State claiming admission into the Union.  This was a very important question, and one which he had not studied with that care which its importance demanded.  He would like to bring out the views entertained on the subject by gentlemen better acquainted with it than himself, and for that purpose would propose a series of questions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER quoted Mr. Calhoun's opinion, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:, That it is a fundamental principle in our political creed, that a people, in forming a Constitution, have the unconditional right to form and adopt the Government which they may think best calculated to secure their liberty, prosperity, and happiness; and in conformity thereto no other condition is imposed by the Federal Constitution on a State, in order to be admitted into this Union, except that its Constitution shall be `republican,' and that the imposition of any other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SNYDER.  I will not say a great deal on this subject.  I am no lawyer; neither have I ever studied such questions.  But there is one thing that I want to impress upon the minds of this Convention.  What right had our forefathers to say that they were free and independent?  What right had they to establish a republican government?  If they, as a body of people, declared that they had certain rights and privileges, and founded a government upon those principles, have not the people of California the same right to make a State as a body of free people, and to enact such laws as they think will benefit them?  You have been all talking here for a long time, and what does it amount to?  You have not arrived at the point yet; nor will you arrive at it while you do nothing but talk from day to day, at the public expense.  It would be much better for you to come to some conclusion in regard to this matter.  In regard to State rights and the rights of the people, I would refer you to what our forefathers did.  The question is, whether we have a right to go immediately into operation as a State government or not; and the conclusion I have come to is this: that if our forefathers had a right to declare themselves independent and establish thirteen States, I think we have a right to establish one.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I believe in what my friend from Sacramento (Mr. Snyder) has said.  But this very principle has been denied by our most eminent jurists for thirty or forty years.  It has been denied in a decision, which has been quoted to us, by the Supreme Court of the United States.  They have undertaken to say, that American citizens, when they leave the confines of their own State lose all the rights of American citizens; that they lose not only those rights, but the rights of freemen, because it is the right of freemen to make their own government, and they no longer possess that right.  For the very reason that this principle has been denied, I call upon gentlemen not to come to a hasty decision upon this subject.  Time should be left for reflection, and we should if possible come to the right conclusion; for our action upon this subject will go forth to the people and to the Congress of the United States.  I would also observe that the mover of the resolution is not in his seat; I believe he wishes to make some remarks upon it.  I desire to make a few as to the legal question myself.  Therefore, I move to lay it on the table for the present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I think my friend from Sacramento (Mr. Snyder) entirely mistakes the object and intention of this resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SNYDER.  If I misunderstand the object and intention, I do not misunderstand the language of the resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES submitted a series of written questions on the subject, and said: The object of these questions is to draw forth debate.  I believe myself that the people of the territory have an undoubted right to exercise certain acts of authority in relation to their municipal Government; that in the absence of any action on the part of the General Government, they have a right to establish a municipal Government, and pass such laws for their own protection as the Congress of the United States have neglected to pass.  But as to the entire right of sovereignty, the absolute independence of the State, I consider that a very doubtful question.  I do not wish to go at present into any discussion of abstract principles, but this may become a very important question.  If Congress should refuse to give us the protection of government, I would be perhaps as willing as any man to establish a municipal Government here; but to declare ourselves independent of the Government of the United States--I would not go to such a length.  I do not believe we have the right to declare ourselves wholly and totally independent of the Government of the United States.  So far as regards our municipal laws, I think we have a right to decide for ourselves.  This is the right which I wish to investigate.  I am not prepared to discuss the question myself.  These are nice and delicate questions, which demand the attention which the gentleman from Monterey <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I move to lay the resolution on the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I hope this resolution will not be laid on the table.  If the object is to obtain further discussion on this subject, I do not see the necessity of that course.  I think the minds of members are fully made up.  I do not believe there are three members in this House who are opposed to the adoption of the resolution.  Why not take the question now?  Is it supposed that Congress will deny our right to establish a State Government here, if we make no unreasonable demands?  We have made none as yet.  Let us vote down the motion to lay on the table, and adopt the resolution at once.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I do not wish to lose time, and therefore I propose to take up something else for the present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I am in favor of disposing of this resolution now.  That we can do it I have no doubt.  My own mind is satisfied on the subject, and I believe there will be no opposition to the resolution.  The arguments have been very good, as to our right to establish a State Government.  I believe there is not a member her who is not willing to settle this question at once, and decide that the government shall go into immediate effect upon the ratification of this Constitution by the people.  I believe we are all sent here to form a government, not to be indefinitely postponed, but to go into immediate effect.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  I hope if any gentleman desires to speak, that this question will not be forced.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  If I understand this question, we go with a Constitution that does not claim this absolute and independent sovereignty.  We only ask to exercise the functions of a State.  If the Government refuse to admit us into the Union as one of the Confederacy, we may then exercise the sovereignty of an independent State.  We do not now claim the right to collect the revenue of the Union, nor to regulate post-offices, nor to exercise any of the funtions which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I do not rise to discuss this question.  I wish merely to call for the yeas and nays, and to state the reasons why I rise for that purpose.  I have already said that I only ask that the resolution be laid on the table, in order to express more fully the views of the representatives of the people of California; to have these principles more fully illustrated; that the reasons why we adopted the resolution should be more clearly laid down.  If the Convention refuse to lay on the table, the effect I conceive will be, that it will naturally be presumed by the people that wewish to shirk this question which has been decided against us.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I would simply make one remark; that in voting to lay this matter on the table, I do not wish to shirk any responsibility which the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Lippitt) has charged upon those who think proper to oppose his motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  The gentleman misunderstands my meaning.  I meant to say that if we refused to give this subject a full and deliberate consideration, it would seem to the people as if the Convention had endeavored to shirk the question.  I do not charge such a motive upon any gentleman here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I understand, then, that an inference would be drawn; that it would seem to the people as if we desired to shirk the responsibility.  This is a question which I have not taken into consideration, and I do not intend to speak upon it; but I desire to state, that so far as I am concerned, I am ready, in recording my vote, to stand any responsibility which it may bring upon me.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  We are all perfectly willing to vote without any further speeches.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Lippitt's motion to lay the resolution on the table, and decided in the negative, by ayes 18, noes 20.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT then moved a recess until three o'clock, which was agreed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 3 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD asked if the resolution which was last up, was now the order of proceeding.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that it was.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD was informed by several gentlemen who intended addressing the House on this subject, that they were willing to reserve their arguments until the subject came up in the schedule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT gave notice that if the question was taken now without debate, he would offer a resolution on the subject when it should come up again for consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the resolution was adopted unanimously.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT, from the Committee on Printing, asked for instructions in regard to printing the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved that the Committee be instructed to make the necessary arrangements to have the Constitution and accompanying documents printed, so as to have them laid before the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD suggested that the bidders should specify the time when the printed copies would be ready.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT moved that the Committee be instructed to report on Monday morning; which motion was agreed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. HALLECK, the Bill of Rights, as reported by the Committee of the Whole, was then taken up for consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first section, as reported, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on concurring with the Committee in striking out the second section--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT asked why that section was stricken out?</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said it was stricken out because it was considered unnecessary.  The Committee adopted the first two sections, and this section was not then considered necessary.  He voted in favor of keeping it in, and he still believed that it ought to be in the Bill of Rights.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON thought he had opposed the striking out of the section in Committee of the Whole, and he could not now see any reason why its introduction would not be perfectly proper.  There was certainly nothing contained in it that was in any manner opposed to the principles contained in either of the sections.  He thought there was considerable confusion in the Convention when it was stricken out, and that it was not fully understood.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said he voted in favor of striking out that section when it was before the Committee of the Whole.  He would now vote for retaining it as a provision of the Constitution.  He did not know then that it would be proposed to deprive any man of his franchise; but having since seen, that by the duelling clause, a man is to be deprived of his franchise, he thought the two ought to go together.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that the question was fully discussed in Committee of the Whole, and he was opposed to having it now introduced.  There could be no reason for the adoption of this section which was not presented in Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE hoped the House would adhere to the report of the Committee of the Whole, in striking out this section.  He could see no necessity for it.  The principles contained in it were fully embraced in the two preceding sections.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on concurring with the report of the Committee of the Whole, it was decided in the affirmative, by ayes 23, noes 17.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then took a recess till 7 o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 7 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY, from the Committee on Finance, made a report, fixing the pay of the members of the Convention at $16 per diem, and $16 for every twenty miles travel; and that of the President at $25 per diem.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS offered the following substitute:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD was not quite sure that there would be a Legislature at all.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved to lay the whole subject on the table, for this reason: that it would be necessary to determine in the schedule what would be the pay of the members of the Legislature; and it would be improper to fix the pay of members of this House first, and then determine the pay of members of the Legislature at a different rate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE thought the two questions had no necessary connection.  They were distinct and independent.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Bott's resolution, and the yeas and nays having been called and ordered, the result was as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Yeas.--Messrs.  Botts, Gilbert, Gwin, Hill, McDougal, Vallejo, Wozencraft.--7.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Nays.--Messrs.  Aram, Brown, Carillo, Covarrubias, Crosby, Dent, Dominguez, Foster, Hanks, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Jones, Larkin, Lippitt, Lippincott, Moore, McCarver, Norton, Price, Pico, Snyder, Sherwood, Stearns, Steuart, Tefft, Vermeule, Walker, President.--31.</P>
196.sgm:<P>So the resolution was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES then offered the following amendment:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL asked if an amendment to the amendment would be in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR replied that it would.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL then moved to insert the word "Buncombe" in the resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES called the gentleman to order.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT hoped his colleague would withdraw the motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL could not consent to withdraw his motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES entered into a calculation to show that the expenses of this Convention, for the members alone, according to the report of the Committee, would be $1,625 a day.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD thought the House understood arithmetic as well as the gentleman from San Joaquin.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT felt it his duty to state the reason why he should vote for the amendment of the gentleman from San Joaquin.  He thought the question in regard to the per diem allowance of members was, whether they should vote themselves merely a nominal allowance, or one that would indemnify them for loss of time and sacrifices made in business; and he was opposed to voting a sum which was neither one nor the other.  He thought it would be more delicate and consistent with the dignity of the Convention to vote a mere nominal allowance--the pay of members of Congress.  If the other principle was to be adopted, $16 a day, or twice $16, would not be sufficient to indemnify the members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON would not only second the amendment of his friend (Mr. McDougal) but sustain it.  He thought the proposition of the gentleman (Mr. Jones) ought to go before the people of San Joaquin with that amendment attached to it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN asked if he understood the President as entertaining that amendment?  It was totally irrelevant, and, according to his knowledge of the rules, could not be entertained,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said if the gentleman could not see the relevancy of the amendment he must be a very dull man.  It was as plain as any proposition possibly could be: to insert the word "Buncombe" after the word "that," so as to read, "That for Buncombe, the pay of the members of this Convention shall be eight dollars per day, and eight dollars for every twenty miles of travel."  Nothing could be plainer than that.  He had hoped that the question would be taken silently on the report of the Committee, but as such did not seem to be the disposition of the House he deemed it appropriate to offer the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN asked if the Chair decided, that it was in order to offer that amendment?</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR did not feel at liberty to reject any proposition made in good faith, and decided that this amendment was in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN appealed from the decision of the Chair.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the appeal,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said he could see very plainly that the gentleman from San Joaquin wished to withdraw his proposition.  He would therefore withdraw his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES objected to the withdrawal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on permitting Mr. McDougal to withdraw his amendment, and it was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on Mr. Jones' resolution,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. COVARRUBIAS moved the following amendment:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON could not see the necessity of such a resolution.  Any of the members who felt any compunctions of conscience in receiving money for their services could very easily refuse it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE thought the mover of the resolution was right in his views, provided existing circumstances required such a course; but as there did not appear to be any necessity of the kind at present, he was disposed to sustain the report of the Committee.  The amount per diem was about the wages of a mechanic; the proposition of his friend from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones) was a great deal less.  He did not think that the people would think any thing more of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>On this amendment of Mr. Covarrubias, the yeas and nays were called for by Mr. Jones, and being taken, resulted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs.  Covarrubias, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Gilbert, Lippincott, McDougal, Pedrorena, Price, Sutter, Sansevaine--10.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs.  Aram, Botts, Brown, Carrillo, Crosby, Dent, Dominguez, Gwin, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hobson, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Jones, Larkin, Lippitt, McCarver, Norton, Pico, Rodriguez, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Steuart, Tefft, Vallejo, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft, President--32.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Wozencraft suggested the following amendment: That all members who wished a lower sum than that reported by the Committee, should be authorized to receive it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN inquired of the chairman of the Committee if the gentleman who represented Los Angelos, and who resided in Monterey, were to receive mileage.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY stated that the Committee was not instructed to make any distinction.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL remarked that the previous question had been called and seconded by two members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN asked the vote of the House on this amendment: That the payment of constructive mileage should be prohibited.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT thought that the Convention could never get through, if that subject was to be taken up and discussed.  It would consume an immense amount of time to undertake to lay down rules for the guidance of the presiding officer on this question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR was of opinion that there was no guide in relation to constructive mileage, except the act of Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the adoption of the report--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS asked a division of the question, so that the vote should first be taken first on the pay and mileage of the members, and then on the per diem of the President, and it was so ordered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The yeas and nays were ordered on the first clause of the paragraph as divided, and it was adopted by yeas 32, nays 13, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs.  Aram, Brown, Carrillo, Crosby, Dominguez, Foster, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hobson, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, Moore, McCarver, Norton, Pedrorena, Price, Pico, Rodriguez, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Sansevaine, Steuart, Tefft, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencratt, President--32.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs.  Botts, Covarrubias, Dent, De Da Guerra, Dimmick, Gilbert, Gwin, Halleck, Jones, Lippincott, McDougal, Sutter, Vallejo--13.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the other branch of the report--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that it having been usual in all deliberative bodies to pay the President double what the members receive, in consequence of the additional expenses to which he is subject, and the first portion of the report having fixed the salary of the members at $16, he would vote for that portion which fixed the salary of the President at $25.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The PRESIDENT said he wished his name to appear in the affirmative on that question.  He was not willing that the members of this body should vote for their pay, and he himself not share the responsibility.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then being on the clause fixing the President's per diem, it was amended on motion of Mr. VERMEULE, by adding thereto the words "and mileage as above."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The yeas and nays being then taken on this clause, as amended, the result was follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs.  Aram, Botts, Brown, Carrillo, Crosby, Dent, De La Guerra, Dominguez, Foster, Gwin, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hobson, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Jones, Larkin, Lippitt, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>NAYS--Messrs. Covarrubias, Dimmick, Gilbert, Halleck, Lippincott, McCarver, McDougal, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon--10.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the report, as amended, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. HALLECK, the Bill of Rights was then taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The third section, as reported, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the fourth section--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said: If it will not create too great an excitement among that portion of the members who seem to think it little short of treason to reverse any thing done in Committee of the Whole, I would move to amend this section by striking out all after the word "belief."  The section, as reported, is in the following words:</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  The free exercise and enjoyment of religious profession and worship, without discrimination or preference, shall be allowed in this State, to all manking; and no person shall be rendered incompetent to bear witness on account of his opinions on matters of religious belief; but the liberty of conscience hereby secured, shall not be so construed as to excuse acts of licentiousness, or justify practices inconsistent with the peace or safety of this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I move to insert the clause from the Bill of Rights of Virginia, which I once had the honor of proposing in lieu of this very clause.  I remember the effect produced upon this House by the reading of that eloquent and beautiful clause; and I remember that the House seemed inclined to adopt it; but the great chairman of the great Committee seemed struck aback with it.  The latter clause of the section, as reported, I propose to strike out, because it is contradictory.  You have no guaranty in your Bill of Rights for religious liberty.  It is left wholly to the Legislature.  The gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood) objected to striking it out, because it was thought necessary in the Constitution of New York.  He spoke of certain sects there, (the Mormons, I believe,) in a very harsh manner, and said it was introduced to prevent licentious practices.  I entertain very different opinions of the Mormons.  I believe we have no right to prescribe the forms of worship of any religious sect; they are all amenable to the laws of the land, and it is not our province to exclude any class from worshiping God as their conscience may dictate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I do not desire to enter into a very lengthy discussion on this subject.  I had hoped that my friend from Monterey would not urge this question.  I had at one time supposed that I had made him a convert to the New York faith, but he has retrograded and gone back upon his old fighting ground, with the intention of opposing everthing coming from the State of New York.  I deem this provision a very important protection to the community; and if gentlemen here remember the remarks made by the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Sherwood,) they will see the necessity of retaining it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I will correct the gentleman from Monterey as to one portion of his remarks.  In referring to certain sects in New York, my colleague from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood) did not intend his remarks for the Mormons.  I am in favor of introducing the section from the Constitution of Virginia--not entirely in place of the orignal section, as reported, but we can make an excellent and beautiful section by combining the two, so that a portion of the first shall contain the principles and rights, and a portion of the last the reasons for asserting those principles and rights.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I think the latter clause of the section, as reported, should be stricken out.  The whole object is effected by the first clause.  Religious liberty is secured.  Beyond that you contradict what you have said above, and you put it in the power of your courts to decide whether the exercise of any peculiar religious belief is compatible with the public safety and morality or not.  Now any religious sect may become a little excited; they may be somewhat noisy and zealous in their mode of worship; it is competent for the court to decide that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I do not wish to see this section stricken out.  We secure religious liberty so far as is consistent with deceny and public order.  No man ought to desire more.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I do not remember how I voted in Committee of the Whole; but I think the language of the section from the Constitution of Virginia is very beautiful and appropriate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  I am in favor of retaining the latter part of the clause in the original section.  I cannot see the incongruity of the two, which has appeared to the gentleman from Monterey.  The sense of the section is this: that it guaranties the free exercise and enjoyment of religious worship, provided it does not amount to licentiousness, or a breach of the peace.  You give the free right of speech to all classes, and yet you say it must not be indulged in to the extent of libel.  The two cases stand upon the same footing.  I hope the entire section will be retained.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  What I wish to impress upon gentlemen is, that crime is not religion, and that there are laws for the punishment of crime.  Those laws are sufficient in themselves to protect the community from licentious practices or breaches of public order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the motion to strike out, and it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The fourth section, as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The fifth and sixth sections, as reported, were then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I have a section which I wish to introduce here, somewhat in connection with the section just passed:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  All persons shall be bailable by sufficient sureties, unless for capital offences, when the proof is evident or the presumption great.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It has been thought by some that the section which we have just adopted covers this entire ground; but in my opinion it does not.  This section is a part of the common law, and as we have not adopted the common law, and perhaps may not, I think it very necessary that such a section should be introduced, so that in all cases, except capital offences, where the proof is evident or the presumption great, the party accused shall be entitled to bail.  An innocent man may be kept in prison and refused bail, without such a provision as this.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I shall be opposed to this section unless the latter clause be stricken out.  It is very indefinite, and may lead to acts of injustice and partiality.  "Where the proof is evident or the presumption great."  This is left to the courts to decide.  Both great and small courts are to determine this matter.  They may decide it in their own way.  Some would pronounce the presumption great; others would pronounce it small.  It seems to me that the clause had better be stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I cannot agree with my friend from Sacramento, (Mr. Hastings.)  It is impossible to leave it to any other than the court itself, by whose order the arrest is made.  It must be left to the discretion of that court.  We cannot lay down here a general rule to provide for every possible variety of circumstances.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on striking out the latter clause of the section, and it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the proposed section, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The next question being on the seventh section, as reported, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I have another section which I desire to propose in connection with the section just adopted.  That section is from the Constitution of the United States.  The section which I propose is also from the Constitution of the United States, next to it.  The first says:</P>
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196.sgm:<P>"No person shall be held to answer for a capital, or other infamous crime, (except in cases of impeachment, and in cases of militia, when in actual service; and the land and naval forces in time of war, or which this State may keep, with the consent of Congress, in time of peace; and in cases of petit larceny, under the regulation of the Legislature,) unless on presentment or indictment of a grand jury; and in any trial, in any court whatever, the party accused shall be allowed to appear and defend in person, and with counsel, as in civil actions.  No person shall be subject to be twice put in jeopardy for the same offence, nor shall he be compelled, in any criminal case, to be a witness against himself; nor be deprived of life, liberty, or property, without due process of law; nor shall private property be taken for public use without just compensation."</P>
196.sgm:<P>This does not cover the whole ground; it does not say that he shall have counsel, or that he shall be confronted by two witnesses on compulsory process.  It is very necessary in criminal prosecutions, where the prisoner is poor, and has not the means of obtaining counsel and witnesses, that all these facilities should be given by the court, so that the poor man shall not be tried without every advantage that the rich man enjoys.  The additional section which I propose is as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"In all criminal prosecutions the accused shall enjoy the right to a speedy and public trial, by an impartial jury of the district or county wherein the crime shall have been committed; and to be informed of the nature and cause of the accusation; to be confronted with the witnesses against him; to have compulsory process for obtaining witnesses in his favor, and to have the assistance of counsel in his defence."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I think the Legislature would adopt this without any constitutional provision.  We are descending too much into detail.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  It seems to me that we now have more sections in the Bill of Rights than any other State in the Union; and, without giving proper time for reflection, I think it would be inexpedient to introduce this new section in this hurried way.  I hope no more new sections will be added.  I would greatly prefer striking out some that are already in the Bill of Rights; for instance, all that are literally from the Constitution from the United States.  The people know where to find them if they desire to refer to them.  There is no occasion to have them in the Constitution of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  The fact that this is in the Constitution of the United States does us no good here; for it has been decided by the Supreme Court of the United States that these provisions only apply in the United States Courts.  It is necessary that we should adopt it here if we desire it to apply in our State courts.  If we have adopted a number of sections that might as well have been left out, it is no evidence against this.  They may be unnecessary--this may be necessary.  I deem it of great importance that a provision of this kind should form a part of our fundamental law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  The section just adopted contains all that is necessary.  It has precisely the same provision in regard to a prisoner having counsel: "The party accused shall be allowed to appear and defend in person and with counsel, as in civil actions."  It seems unnecessary to repeat that this important privilege is secured to the prisoner.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  The section just adopted gives the prisoner the privilege of appearing in person and defending with counsel; that is to say, he may have counsel provided he is able to pay for it; but the section which I propose makes it obligatory to give him counsel.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed section, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section as reported was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on concurring with the report of the Committee of the Whole in striking out the 7th section of the report of the Select Committee, it was concurred in.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 8th section as reported was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 9, as reported, being under consideracion, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  The people shall have the right freely to assemble together to consult for the common good, to instruct their Representatives, and to petition the Legislature for redress of grievances.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I hold a doctrine entirely averse to that of the gentleman who has just taken his seat; and I sincerely trust that this provision of the Constitution will be retained.  I hold, sir, that the people of a particular district who elect a representative, are the proper judges of all measures; and that when the representatives from the various districts meet together in their legislative capacity, they have no right to take any course contrary to the will of their constituents.  If they do, they cease to represent their constituents.  I see no reason why we should exclude so wholesome a provision from the Constitution of the State; it is one of the great privileges which belong to the people, and which appropriately comes in our Declaration of Rights.  Our system of government is a system of compromises; the members of our legislative assemblies have various interests <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  Will the gentleman allow me to ask him one question?  If the representatives come bound by instructions from their constituents, how can they effect any compromise?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  It is their duty to make every compromise not inconsistent with the will of their constituents.  If they cannot effect any compromise without violating the instructions under which they act, then they should throw the responsibility upon those who sent them there.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I regret to differ from my friend from San Francisco (Mr. Lippitt) on this point; but I do differ from him both as to the nature of government and the duty of the representative.  If I understand him, he contends that this provision recognizing the right of instruction, makes us a pure democracy, while in fact, our government is a representative democracy.  The term pure democracy, as I understand it, means a government where the people assemble together without any representation, and make their own laws.  As I understand a representative democracy, it is that in which one stands instead of many, or represents the will of those who elect him.  How he can be a representative or a portion of the representative democracy, and not be guided by the instructions of his constituents--those who made him a representative--I cannot see.  If I am elected by a thousand votes, and that thousand votes meet after my election and say, almost unanimously, that I am to vote so and so, if it is not a violation of principle with me, I am bound to vote as they direct.  If it is a violation of principle with me, as a man of honor, I am bound to resign.  There can be no other construction to the duties of a representative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BROWN.  I am of opinion that it would be impolitic to place this clause in the Constitution.  It may be susceptible of evil.  The natural course of a representative is to obey the will of his constituents.  He knows what they desire; but if this provision is introduced in the Constitution, he may receive a letter with perhaps twenty or thirty names attached to it, instructing him to take a particular course.  He has no instructions from the mass of his constituents; nevertheless, he knows that they entertain a different feeling--that the great majority of them do not wish him to take that course.  But by this provision he is compelled to obey the wishes of twenty or thirty, and to disregard the will of perhaps several hundred.  No representative would feel authorized to exercise any discretion in the matter, and act contrary to the expressed instructions which he had received.  When a new measure comes up, it may not be in his power to ascertain the will of a majority of the people, not having any recent knowledge of their views.  Under such circumstances, it would be unjust to require him to act upon the representation of ten or a dozen persons who may think proper to address him a written communication.  If he is at all qualified to be a representative, he should have the discretionary power to judge of what will best meet the interests of his constituents--the great mass of whom may be entirely ignorant of the reasons for and against the measure.  It may be a measure not generally discussed in his district previous to the meeting of the Legislature.  I think it unsual to have such a provision in a Constitution, and I conceive that it would place members of the Legislature in a very embarrassing position.  For these reasons, I hope it will be stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I differ from the gentleman last up, and I hope the House will not strike out this provision.  I think the people have a right to instruct their representatives, and the representative has a right to refuse to obey those instructions.  Both have rights.  But if the representative cannot conscientiously obey those instructions, he should resign.  I regard him as a mere machine, so far as he is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>298</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  We simply say here that the people have a right to assemble and instruct their representatives.  We do not say whether the representatives shall obey or not.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  Under that construction the case is altered.  But I put it in this light.  I am a representative of the whole of California; that is to say, it is my duty to consider the best interests of the whole.  If, when a question comes up, I know my constituents are unacquainted with all its aspects, and if I have contrary instructions, knowing that these instructions are based upon a want of knowledge of the case, still I should vote for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  I believe the people have a right to instruct their representatives, and I believe that right should be acknowledged in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I have simply to say that this clause should be stricken out, and for the reason that the people have a right to instruct their representatives, and this declares nothing else, and the people know it as well as we do.  If they have that right why assert it here; if you strike out the clause you do not deprive them of the right.  They will instruct their representatives if they think proper; if they do not think proper they will do just as they please about it.  Our Constitution ought not to be encumbered with unnecessary provisions of this kind.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I think the remarks of the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Hastings,) would go to strike out the whole section.  The people have a right to assemble freely together.  It is an unquestionable right; it has never been disputed; whereas, the right of instruction has been disputed.  I think if any portion of the section should stand it is that.  If the arguments adduced against introducing anything in regard to the right of instruction have a single particle of force, they apply to the whole of the section; and to nearly all others in this bill of rights.  Most of them are simply declarations of great principles.  Why not begin at the beginning and strike it all out.  I should be in favor of retaining the clause relative to the right of instructing representatives for this reason, if for no other, that it has heretofore been considered at least doubtful.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Lippit's motion to strike out the words "instruct their representatives," and it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section, as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 10th and 11th sections were adopted as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 12th section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No soldier shall, in time of peace, be quartered in any house without the consent of the owner, nor in time of war except in the manner prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMUELE moved to insert the words "to be" after the word "manner," and before the word "prescribed."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said the question was "to be or not to be," and he therefore hoped the motion would prevail.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment was agreed to, and the 12th section, as amended, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 13th section being under consideration, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>As all men are entitled to equal political rights, representation should be apportioned according to population.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT said he was opposed to this section.  He did not think that all men are entitled to equal political rights.  He conceived that all men are entitled to equal natural rights; but the rights which grow out of society--out of the assembling of men in communities--those political rights resulting from the position in which they were placed, did not, he thought, belong to all men.  If such was the case any provision designating the qualifications of citizenship would be unconstitutional.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART moved to amend the section by striking out these words: "As all men are entitled to equal political rights," preceding the word "representation."</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS moved to amend the amendment by inserting the word "citizens" instead of "men."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMUELE thought there would be a discrepancy in the section if that amendment was adopted: "As all <HI REND="italics">citizens</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS withdrew his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Steuart's amendment, to strike out the first clause of the section, so as to read "representation shall be apportioned according to population," and it was adopted, by yeas 13, nays 10.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 13th section, as amended, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The remaining sections of the bill of rights, as reported by the Committee of the Whole, were adopted without debate; and, on motion of Mr. HALLECK, the article was ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the resolution offered some days ago by Mr. Vallejo was taken up, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved to amend by striking out the words "for their approval," and inserting after the word "thereof" the words "subject to its adoption and modification from time to time."  He did not know that he would vote for the original resolution, but if it was to be adopted, he wished it to be in as perfect a form as possible.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I have but a single word to say in regard to this matter.  There is some doubt on my mind whether we have power in this Convention to appoint any such commission.  We were sent here for a special object--to form a Constitution to be submitted to the people; and that is all the power that I think is delegated to us.  I am satisfied that there is a necessity for the appointment of these Commissioners; a necessity for preparing a system or code of laws for the Legislature; and that it will expedite the action of the Legislature very much if that course is adopted; but unless some gentleman can satisfy me that we have the right and power to appoint these Commissioners, I shall be compelled to vote against it, believing at the same time that there is an evident necessity for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  We have fixed one important principle at any rate.  The Committee asked instructions from this House as to the time when this government should go into operation, and they have been instructed to bring in a provision in the schedule that it shall go into operation at an early day after the adoption of this Constitution.  It seems to be admitted that the Legislature will meet some time in December; and now I ask, from our own experience here, if, in starting the wheels of government; in swearing in your officers; in fashioning out the duties of your departments; in presenting laws to govern your judges, to regulate trials, to administer justice; to secure the rights of individuals--I ask if you will not be obliged to have a book of three or four hundred pages; and I ask you, if the experience of this House has not shown us that neither one, nor two, nor four months of the sitting of a legislative body similar to the character of this, can bring out such a code of laws as will be necessary for this country.  All experience in the older States shows that codes of laws must be studied with care, and that no legislative committee, called suddenly into existence, can digest a code for the action of the Legislature at its first session.  Our experience here shows, that during the last month, one large Committee have been engaged in forming a Constitution of six or eight pages; how, then, can the Legislature, in two or four months, bring out a code of laws embracing four or five hundred pages?  We have to make a beginning; we have to start without any pre-existing laws, and on the first of January, when your Governor, and Secretary of State, Comptroller, and other officers are sworn in, they will have no duties to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  The gentleman did well not to touch far upon the right of this Convention to appoint such a commission; and much as I would desire to support the resolution for the convenience of having such a code of laws prepared, I consider that there is an insuperable obstacle in the absence of all right to do so, on the part of this Convention.  New York here comes in to our aid.  The resolution is taken from the Constitution of New York.  Is the appointment of commissioners made by the Convention which formed the Constitution?  Not at all.  They had not the right, and they were not willing to assume it.  The section says that the Legislature at its first session after the adoption of the Constitution, shall provide for the appointment of such a commission.  I claim that we have no right here to make any appointment of the kind.  We have come here, whether it be under the instructions of the people or under the proclamation of General Riley, to form a Constitution, not to appoint commissioners to form laws.  That, sir, is the province of the Legislature.  The State from which my colleague came, (New York,) acknowledges that right as belonging to the Legislature and not to the Convention that forms the Constitution.  Suppose the Constitution that we adopt here is not adopted by the people.  Suppose they in their sovereignty see fit to refuse to ratify that Constitution.  In the meantime we have had commissioners at work forming the laws by the appointment of this Convention, whose action the people refuse to ratify.  Yes, sir, the authority which forms this commission is rejected by the people; they refuse to ratify our labors.  Where, then, is your commission, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  In regard to the action of New York, we started without any Legislature; New York had a Legislature both before and after the Convention.  They had very good laws in operation at the time.  We create the necessity for laws.  In regard to the right, also, it may be a very doubtful matter whether we have the right to fix our own pay, and yet we have fixed it.  The circumstances under which we are placed, must be taken into consideration, and it will not do to draw a parallel line between this territory and States in which the whole pre-existing political organization was different.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I hold that the right of this body to appoint commissioners to form a code of laws for the Legislature, is very questionable; and that it would be improper for us and impolitic to do it, on the grounds of expediency.  I have lived in a country for the last five years, (Oregon,) that adopted at one single sweep, laws which answered all the purposes, from the judicial code of Iowa.  We might do just the same.  I do not see why the Legislature could not just as well take up the laws of New York or Iowa, or Virginia, or any other State, as the report of these commissioners.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I would be perfectly willing to require the Legislature to appoint this commission at its first session, to form a code of laws.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  The example of New York has not the slightest bearing on this country.  The commission in New York was appointed to revise a code of laws that had been in operation for upwards of fifty years.  There is not the slightest similarity between the case of New York and California.  As to what my friend from Sacramento (Mr. McCarver) says about adopting a code of laws from the States, what suited Oregon with eight hundred votes for a member of Congress, would scarcely suit such a country as this.  The gentleman got more than eight hundred votes in his own district to come here.  In Oregon it does very well; but when you adopt laws for a territory like this, with such an immense population, it is quite a different thing.  There are portions of Mexican laws that must be re-enacted here; and the representatives of thirty of the States of the Union are here, and no system from one State will suit them.  We ought to have three of the ablest men in California to prepare and chalk out the work for the guidance of the Legislature.  Comparing the position of California with any other of the States, is entirely erroneous; we have had no system of government here as the other States have had.  We are called upon to put immediately into effect a code of laws.  As to the adoption of this Constitution by the people, I fear not.  The gentleman (Mr. Shannon) can scarcely urge that as an argument.  It has no force whatever.  I have no apprehension that our Constitution will not be sanctioned by the people.  As to the right, we have as much right to do this as we have to make a government.  If we make a government, we must make provisions for having laws made to carry it out.  You cannot get books in California; you must have able men to prepare the material for the Legislature; they have the enactment of the laws.  I look upon it as absolutely indispensable; it is a matter of necessity; the right is the right of necessity; the same necessity that called us here to form a government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMULE.  I also am in favor of the passage of the resolution.  I believe the great objection to it is based upon our want of power to appoint such a commission.  I agree with the gentleman that the history of New York furnishes no precedent for the guidance of California.  California is a political anomaly; and being anomalous, you must deviate from the fixed usages of other States.  Who is to question this want of right on the part of this Convention?  I know of no other than the people; and it is my opinion, that instead of objection to the exercise of such a right on the part of this Convention, they will thank us for abridging the labors of the Legislature.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  No doubt the members of the Legislature will be very grateful to us for making laws for them, and leaving them nothing to do but sit in their seats and receive their sixteen dollars a day.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I rise to express my conviction of the expediency, necessity and propriety of this proposition; but I must say I have very great doubts as to our power to appoint such a commission.  If I understand the directions under which we come here, all our actions must be submitted to the people.  I apprehend this resolution is not to go into the Constitution, nor is it to be inserted in the schedule.  If so, I think it is clear and positive that it forms no part of our duty, and that we have no right to pass such a resolution.  All our acts should be submitted to the people for their ratification.  If we deny that principle, I do not think we have a right to come here at all.  I rise, therefore, simply to say that this doubt as to the right will force me to vote against a measure which I believe to be necessary and expedient.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Halleck's amendment, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then being on the adoption of the resolution, it was decided in the affirmative, by year and nays, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Yeas.--Messrs. Aram, Covarrubias, Dela Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Gwin, Hanks, Hoppe, Hollingsworth, Lippincott, Moore, McDougal, Pico, Snyder, Sherwood, Steuart, Stearns, Vallejo, Vermule, Walker, Wozencraft.--21.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Nays.--Messrs. Brown, Foster, Gilbert, Hill, Halleck, Hastings, McCarver, Norton, Pedrorena, Sutter, Shannon, President.--12.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE said he voted in the negative simply from the fact that the people might not ratify this Constitution, and the Commissioners would have no means of getting their pay.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD suggested that that was a very good reason why the Convention should have adjourned fifteen days ago, in order that the members might save themselves some expense.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then adjourned to 12 o'clock, to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention was called to order at half-past 10 o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Prayer by Senor Padre Ramirez.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The journal of yesterday was read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>During the reading of the journal, Mr. Gwin moved the following amendment, to come in before the vote taken upon the per diem allowance of the President:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"Mr. GWIN stated that he would vote for the compensation allowed the President, on the principle that had been established by all deliberative bodies with which he was acquainted, of giving the presiding officer twice the amount of the members; and as the Convention had determined to pay its members $16 per diem, he would vote to give the President $25, as reported by the Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Messrs. BOTTS, McDOUGAL, LIPPITT and VERMEULE opposed the motion, on the ground that it was out of order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided it to be in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE appealed from the decision of the Chair.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN then stated that his motion was to amend the journal by the recording of his reasons.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT opposed the motion on the ground that it would be establishing a very bad precedent.  It was enough for members to state their reasons, but it would not be proper to encumber the Journal with every member's reasons.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE withdrew his appeal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question on the motion to amend was then taken, and rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE, Chairman of the Committee appointed to prepare a plan of enumeration for representation, presented a report, which was laid upon the table, subject to call.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, from the Select Committee on the Constitution, reported the schedule to the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. WOZENCRAFT, the matter was laid upon the table, subject to call.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN gave notice that he should move sundry amendments to the schedule, or present them in the form of a minority report.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON stated that the Committee on the Constitution, having completed their labors, begged to be discharged.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT hoped they would not be, as there might be other business for them to transact.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said that he would withdraw the request, as he recollected that the Committee had yet to make a preamble.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE, Chairman of the Committee appointed to receive propositions and designs for a Seal for the State of California, reported that the Committee had received but one design, and that was presented by Mr. Caleb Lyons, of Lyonsdale.  The Committee considered it peculiarly appropriate, and recommended it adoption by the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the report, with the design of the Seal and its explanation, were laid upon the table, subject to call.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved that the Convention proceed to the election of Commissioners to frame a code of laws to be presented to the next Legislature for their adoption.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS presented a resolution to render any member of the Convention ineligible for the office of Commissioner.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE wished the resolution so modified as to provide that only two of the three should be members of the Convention.  He had had but little time to become acquainted with the legal talent in the country, and was not able to say whether there were three gentlemen, not in the Convention, who were capable of filling the office.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS was utterly opposed to such a proposition.  He was opposed to this Convention making fat offices for its members to fill.  These offices had been created by the Convention in an extraordinary manner, without any right, and it was quite likely, as the precedent had been established, that other offices might be created also.  As the members of the Convention were not numerous, it might be said that these offices were created simply for the purpose of providing themselves with good berths.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE deemed the reasoning just, and withdrew his opposition to Mr. Botts' resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS was opposed to the proposition and in favor of at once going into the election of the Commissioners.  Was it at all likely that the people would find fault with the actions of the members of the Convention whom they had selected to represent them?  Not at all.  They would certainly be satisfied with the acts of those in whose talents and abilities they had already shown their confidence.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT contended that Mr. Hastings had argued upon false principles.  The people had not sent delegates to the Convention to form a code of laws, but to form a Constitution.  It was presumptuous to contend that all the legal talent and ability was centred in the Convention--he saw no evidence of it; and he believed that if the Commissioners were appointed by the Convention, the Legislature would indignantly reject any code of laws they might present to them.  It was necessary to have at least one member of the commission who was thoroughly acquainted with the Spanish laws, and of all of those whose names he had heard in connection with the subject, he had heard of no such person.  It was evident the board had been created by gentlemen here for the purpose of being elected themselves, and he felt himself fully warranted in making that assertion.  If the Convention entertained any desire that the code of laws reported by these Commissioners should be adopted by the Legislature, they should be extremely cautious who they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>304</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON remarked that the question had been fully discussed last night, and the gentleman from San Luis Obispo, (Mr. Tefft,) was too late with his argument as to the right of the Convention.  That question had been already decided.  In order to cut off all further argument, he moved the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT requested the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Shannon) to withdraw his motion; but that gentleman declined.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then refused the call for the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT stated that he had been compelled to leave the previous evening under indisposition, before the question came up.  He did not desire to make a speech, and would only say that he fully concurred with the gentleman from San Luis Obispo, (Mr. Tefft,) in his opinion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE stated that he had voted for the resolution to appoint, purely from motives of political rectitude; but his opinion as to the propriety of appointing the Commissioners having undergone a change, he moved a reconsideration of the vote of last night.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT then opposed the adoption of the resolution on several grounds.  First, that it was exceeding the authority for which the people had sent the delegates here.  Next, it was impossible, in his opinion, for three men or thirty men, to draw up a code of laws in time for the action of the next Legislature.  It was a work of years to form a code of laws--and he had never known one to be formed in less than two years.  Questions would arise, perfectly new, and which had never before been presented, and extraordinary skill and industry were required.  It was the province of the Legislature to make laws--that body was elected for that purpose and none other; and the Convention had no business to abrogate to themselves their powers--either to make laws or appoint a commission to make them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved that the Convention take a recess till half-past 2 o'clock; carried.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, HALF PAST 2 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The debate upon the resolution last under consideration was resumed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS opposed the adoption of the resolution as an assumption of power which would not, and should not, be recognized by the Legislature.  It would impede and retard the passage of laws; for the Legislature would look with no favor upon any code reported by that commission, and would, in all probability, reject anything they might produce.  Besides that, it was an unnecessary expense.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VALLEJO was in favor of the resolution.  He had no other motive than to provide for the rapid passage of laws by the Legislature.  It was a matter of economy to pay the three Commissioners rather than an entire Legislature.  The session of that body would not be near so protracted if their business was already prepared to their hands.  If the Convention objected to paying $3,000 or $4,000 for Commissioners, he would pay it himself, willingly, though of slight importance to him in comparison to the State.  He regretted that his limited knowledge of the English language prevented him from replying to all the arguments adduced by those gentlemen who did not speak in his own tongue.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This discussion was continued on the same grounds; Messrs. Sherwood, Hastings, and Price occupied the floor in favor of, and Messrs. Lippett, Halleck, and Botts, against the adoption of the resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE submitted the following as an amendment to the resolution, which, after debate, was rejected, by yeas 19, nays 20:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature, at its first session after the adoption of this Constitution, and from time to time thereafter, as may be necessary, shall pass laws regulating the tenure of office, the filling of vacancies therein, and the compensation of the said Commissioners.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON called for the previous question, which the Convention sustained.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the adoption of the original resolution, Mr. BOTTS asked the yeas and nays, which were ordered and resulted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Covarrubias, De la Guerra, Dimmick, Gwin, Hobson, Jones, Lippincott, McDougal, Price, Rodriguez, Sutter, Sherwood, Steuart, Stearns, Vallejo, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft--18.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Carillo, Crosby, Dent, Dominguez, Foster, Gilbert, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, McCarver, Norton, Pedrorena, Pico, Reid, Shannon, Sansevaine, Tefft, President--26.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT moved for the appointment of a committee of three to receive a design or device of a suitable coat of arms for the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE said that was a matter for the Legislature to determine, and not for the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was withdrawn.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved that when the Convention adjourns, it adjourn till Monday morning; carried.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK, at quarter of 6 o'clock, moved for a recess till half-past 7 o'clock; carried.</P>
196.sgm:<P>EVENING SESSION, HALF-PAST 7 O'CLOCK.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Several unimportant motions were made, but withdrawn without discussion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>One motions of Mr. PRICE, the House took up the report upon the Great Seal of the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON inquired whether the design presented was for the Great Seal of the State or the coat of arms.  He deemed the design a most happy one, but more appropriate for a coat of arms than for a seal.  It was unusual for a seal to contain a motto, the seal commonly containing the main emblems and the words "Great Seal of the State."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The explanation accompanying the seal was then read, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>THE SEAL OF THE STATE AND COAT OF ARMS.</P>
196.sgm:<P>EXPLANATION.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Around the bend of the ring are represented thirty-one stars, being the number of States of which the Union will consist upon the admission of California.  The foreground figure represents the goddess Minerva having sprung full grow from the brain of Jupiter.  She is introduced as a type of the political birth of the State of California, without having gone throught the probation of a territory.  At her feet crouches a grisly bear feeding upon the clusters from a grape vine, emblematic of the peculiar characteristics of the country.  A miner is engaged with his rocker and bowl at his side, illustrating the golden wealth of the Sacramento, upon whose waters are seen shipping, typical of commercial greatness; and the snow-clad peaks of the Sierra Nevada make up the background, while above is the Greek motto "Eureka," (I have found,) applying either to the principle involved in the admission of the State, or the success of the miner at work.</P>
196.sgm:<P>CALEB LYON,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">of Lyonsdale</HI>
196.sgm:<P>MONTEREY, <HI REND="italics">Sept</HI>
196.sgm:<P>After various amendments had been suggested, the whole matter wes laid upon the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. MORTON, Article III of the Constitution was taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 1st being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>The PRESIDENT called upon Mr. Norton to take the chair, stating that he was too unwell to occupy it at present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Mr. Chairman, it is Saturday night, sir.  The President is broken down by hard work; the clerks are broken down; the reporter is broken down; and I believe the members are nearly all broken down.  I therefore move an adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention refused toadjourn, by a vote of 19 to 17.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 1st section, s reported by the Committee of the Whole, was then taken up for consideration, as follows:</P>
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196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  Every white male citizen of the United States, and every male citizen of the United States, and every male citizen of Mexico (Indians, Africans, and descendents of Africans excepted) who shall have elected to become a citizen of the United States under the treaty of peace exchanged and ratified at Queretaro on the 30th day of May, 1848, of the age of twenty-one years, who shall have been a resident of the State six months next preceding the election, and the county or district in which he claims his vote thirty days, shall be entitled to vote at all elections which are now or hereafter be authorized by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on concurring in the amendment of the Committee of the Whole, an animated discussion sprung up, and the same points were re-argued in the House that had been so warmly discussed in the Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK was opposed to the amendment, because he thought that it might be said to conflict with the conditions of the treaty.  He would not say that it did do so, but that it might be so construed.  If such was the case, several of the most worthy citizens of California would be excluded from exercising the right of franchise; and one of them was one of the members of this very Convention.  He hoped that the section might be amended so as to remove this difficulty--he had sought so to modify it, but having failed, would leave the matter in the hands of others.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT asked how it conflicted with the treaty.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK replied that he did not assert that it did; but it might possibly be so construed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER wished to know what class was excluded.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK said that he had voted for the amendment, but upon sober second thought he had arrived at the conclusion that it was too exclusive.  He accordingly submitted an amendment which, in effect, excluded only Indians not taxed, and Africans and their descendants.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved an amendment, which, after modification, at the suggestion of Mr. Lippitt, was as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Insert in the 1st section, after the words "United States," and before the words "of the age," the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"And every citizen of Mexico (Indians, not taxed as owners of real estate, and negroes excepted) entitled to the right of suffrage at the ratification of the treaty of Gaudalupe Hidalgo, and who shall have elected to become a citizen of the United States, under the provisions of said treaty."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT supported the amendment, and was in favor of such a provision, if there was but one man in all California who could be benefitted by it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON was also in favor of it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART said that he could not vote for the amendment without further explanation from the mover.  He could see nothing in the section, as amended in the Committee of the Whole, conflicting with the treaty.  ( <HI REND="italics">Mr. S. then read section 8 of the treaty</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE was in favor of the section as it stood.  Was there a man, he would ask, who was willing to place himself on a level with the Indian or the negro?  Not he, for one.  The proposed amendment was loose in the extreme.  Where were those Indians who were to be admitted by this amendment?  They were along the Pacific coast, populating the <HI REND="italics">ranchos</HI>
196.sgm:.  There was not a <HI REND="italics">rancho</HI>
196.sgm: where you would not find fifty or a hundred buck Indians, and the owner could run these <HI REND="italics">freemen</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK interrupted to explain that only those Indians who were taxed were competent to vote.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE continued.  There were ranchos in certain districts where the California proprietors could control at least two hundred votes in favor of any particular candidate; and these votes could be purchased for a few dollars, for the Indians knew no better.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT addressed the Convention in favor of the Indian race.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER opposed Mr. Halleck's amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK advocated it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD was opposed to the principle of any man voting who was not a white man.  It had been said that if the amendment was not adopted a member of the Convention would be excluded from the right of franchise.  He knew of no gentleman present who was not a white man; and he believed every one in the country who was entitled to vote was a white man.  He knew that his constituents were in favor of excluding the Indians.  With the gentlemen from California he he agreed, when he argued that all endeavors should be used to elevate, and cultivate, and instruct the Indians; and that it was the duty of the State Government to adopt every measure in their power to produce such a result; but that had nothing to do with the question.  If the amendment of Mr. Halleck was adopted he was sure that there was not a man in the mines who would vote for the Constitution.  Under such a state of things, his friend Captain Sutter, if so disposed, if he desired to become a politician, and wished office, could, by simply granting a small portion of land to each Indian, control a vote of ten thousand.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO said he could easily remove the fears entertained by the last speaker, that such an overflowing amount of Indians would vote.  There was no such desire on the part of any member of that Convention.  He did not at all desire that the mass of Indians should vote, and he had expressly said so.  All the Indians in the entire Territory who owned land and were entitled to vote, under <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to amend the amendment by inserting after the words "real estate," the words "to the amount of $500, subjected to taxation;" but subsequently withdrew the same.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved to amend the amendment by inserting, as a substitute therefor, the section as originally reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved the previous question, which motion was sustained by the Convention; and the question being taken on Mr. Sherwood's amendment, the yeas and nays were required and ordered, and resulted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEES.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Crosby, Gwin, Hobson, Jones, Lippincott, Moore, McCarver, McDougal, Price, Sutter, Sherwood, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft.--16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Botts, Carillo, Covarrubias, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Gilbert, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, Norton, Ord, Pedrorena, Rodriguez, Reid, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft, Vallejo.--26.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then being on Mr. Halleck's amendment--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART moved to amend the same by substituting therefor the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Every white male citizen of the United States, and every white male inhabitant of California, as provided for under the treaty of peace exchanged and ratified at Queretaro, on the 30th day of May, 1848, of the age of twenty-one years, who shall have been a resident of the State six months next preceding the election, and the county and district in which he claims his vote thirty days, shall be entitled to vote at all elections which are now, or hereafter may be authorized by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The presiding officer (Mr. Norton) decided that, as the previous question had been sustained by the Convention, the amendment was not in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved an adjournment, which motion the CHAIR decided to be not in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE appealed from this decision, and the question being put, "Shall the decision of the Chair stand as the judgment of the House?" it was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then again recurring on Mr. Halleck's amendment, the yeas and nays were required and ordered, and resulted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Carillo, Covarrubias, De la Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Gilbert, Hill, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, Ord, Pedrorena, Rodriguez, Reid, Shannon, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft, Vallejo--21.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Crosby, Gwin, Hanks, Hoppe, Hobson, Hastings, Jones, Lippincott, Moore, McCarver, McDougal, Norton, Price, Sutter, Sherwood, Steuart, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft.--22.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on concurring in the amendment of the Committee of the Whole, Mr. PRICE inquired of the presiding officer, (Mr. Norton,) what would be the effect of a rejection of that amendment, the original section of the article having already been offered as an amendment by Mr. Sherwood and voted down?</P>
196.sgm:<P>The presiding officer explained and decided that the amendment of Mr. Sherwood, and the vote thereon, had been irregular, and must be considered as not having taken place.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by Rev. S. H. Willey.  Journal of Saturday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then, on motion, took took up the report from the Committee of the Whole, on the "Right of Suffrage," and the first three sections of said report was concurred in.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I have an amendment which I proposed in Committee of the Whole, and which I will read again for the consideration of the House.  This section provides that no citizen who happens to be absent from the State on public business, shall be deprived of the right of voting.  It is in the following words:</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  For the purpose of voting, no person shall be deemed to have gained or lost a residence by reason of his presence or absence while employed in the service of the United States; nor while engaged in the navigation of the waters of this State, or of the United States, or of the high seas; nor while a student of any seminary of learning; nor while kept at any almshouse, or other asylum, at public expense; nor while confined in any public prison.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I would rather retain the 4th section and adopt that of the gentleman as an additional section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I am sorry to detain the House, but I think that this section is much superior to the other, and covers the whole ground.  It is a condensation of all that ought to be said on the subject in the Constitution.  If there be other sections that conflict with it, I shall vote to strike them out at the proper time; and if we can treat this subject fully in one section, why make two or three, or half a dozen.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I am perfectly satisfied upon further examination of the two sections, that this is a condensation of all that is said in the report of the Committee, and I therefore withdraw all objection to it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed substitute, and it was adopted by ayes 27, noes 20.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 5th section was then adopted as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 6th section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>All elections by the people shall be by ballot.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to strike out the words "by ballot," and insert "viva voce," which amendment was rejected, and the section adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article II, as adopted, was then ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article III on the Distribution of Powers, was then read as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The powers of government of the State of California shall be divided into three separate departments, the Legislature, the Executive, and the Judicial; and no person charged with the exercise of powers properly belonging to one of these departments, shall exercise any function appertaining to either of the others, except in the cases hereinafter expressly directed or permitted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section was adopted as reported; and the second section being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said that it properly came under the head of the Legislative Department.  He therefore moved that the article on the Distribution of Powers be engrossed for a third reading, and that the words "Article III," be inserted at the head of Legislative Department, which was agreed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 1st section of Article III being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to insert before it as the first section, the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall have power to enact all laws for the good of this State that do not conflict with the provisions of this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said his object in moving this amendment was, that the Legislature should exercise no power except what the people delegated to it; and that the Constitution was the proper place to look for these delegated powers.  He wished specially to enjoin that which was sometimes taken for granted.  We do this in the Constitution, but declare that the Legislature have a great many special powers; these special powers might be construed to include the general powers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT did not agree with his friend from Monterey.  He concurred with him as to the source of all power, but he did not agree with him that the channel through which that power flows, was through the Constitution.  He had no objection to the proposed section; it could do no harm.  It might have the effect of preventing dispute if there should be a division of opinion on this subject.  He thought it best, therefore, that such a provision be inserted.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  It seems to be a principle so well established, that the power is in the hands of the people, that I cannot see the object of inserting this provision in the Constitution.  It is the fundamental principle upon which our republican government is based.  The American people need hardly be reminded that they possess this power.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS did not suppose the gentleman would confound the government with the people.  The government derives its powers from the people; but it possesses only just as much power as the people choose to give it.  He preferred specifying all powers that the people chose to give the government, and he offered this as a general rule where such powers were not specified.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  What is the connection between the government and the people?  The power is in the people and the people constitute the government, and place the power in the hands of their representatives, under the restrictions imposed by the Constitution.  Unless we place such restrictions on the law-making power in this Constitution, there is no check upon the Legislature; hence all power not specified comes back to its original source--the people.  It cannot be brought under a general head, and transferred to a third party.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS contended that the object of the Constitution was to protect the minority, and that to omit this constitutional provision would be a violation of that principle.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed section, and it was rejected, by yeas 13, nays 14.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the adoption of the fourth section, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  The legislative power of this State shall be vested in a Senate and Assembly, which shall be designated the Legislature of the State of California, and the style of their laws shall commence in the following manner:  "The people of the State of California, represented in Senate and Assembly, do enact as follows."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT moved to strike out "style of" their laws, and insert "their laws."  He deemed it unnecessary to say "style of."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment was agreed to; and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The second section, as reported, being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The sessions of the Legislature shall be annual, and commence on the first Monday in January next ensuing the election of its members, unless the Governor of the State shall in the interim convene the Legislature by proclamation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to insert after the word "Legislature" in the first line, the words "until otherwise provided by law."  His object in moving this amendment was this; that it might after a few years become evident that there was no necessity for annual sessions; and in order that the people should not be put to the expense of calling another Convention to amend the Constitution, he desired to give the Legislature power to change from annual to biennial sessions.  In some States the people were obliged to call a Convention to provide for this.  No Legislature would make the change unless it was desired by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said it appeared to him that this would not attain the object.  He was in favor of the provision, but he was not certain that the amendment covered the ground.  It did not make it obligatory on the Legislature that the change should be to biennial sessions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS asked if it was the object that the Legislature should make the sessions semi-annual.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said the power was given to the Legislature, and they would not exercise it unless it was deemed expedient.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK said if this clause was altered it would be neccessary to alter the next and succeeding sections.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL thought the object was a very good one, but that it would be desirable to define whether sessions should be biennial or semi-annual.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT agreed with the gentleman last up, and would ask the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin) so to amend his motion.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON was of opinion that in adopting this amendment the House would get into a great deal of difficulty.  All this could be done by a vote of the people in the manner provided in the Constitution.  It could be done under an act of the Legislature, without calling a Convention to form a new Constitution.  Besides, he thought that if California should ever become the great State which all anticipated, it would be indispensably necessary to have annual sessions of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS was surprised to see any amendnent from the quarter from which this came.  He recollected that the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) was struck with horror that any amendment should be proposed after the debates in Committee of the Whole; but he was most of all astonished that such an amendment as this should come from that gentleman.  This amendment is fraught with evil.  To what does it amount?  That the Legislature may do this: they may provide, if they choose, that another Legislature shall not sit for twenty years, and you could not avoid that decision except by a revolution.  Even to amend your Constitution you would be obliged to have a revolution, for there would be no Legislature to amend it according to the provisions of that Constitution.  It was evident that the resolution should not pass as it is now worded.  It seemed to him that this was a very important matter, and that the sessions of the Legislature should be annual, and not be altered except in the manner provided in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL was in favor of the provision, but wished to have it restricted to some definite time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON was opposed to any provision of the kind.  It was not necessary now; and whenever the necessity that such a change should be made was apparent to the Legislature or the people, there was a very easy method pointed out in the Constitution of effecting the object.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART said that, further than that, it carried along with it a <HI REND="italics">quasi</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said it was very well known to all the members that this subject had been fully discussed in Committee of the Whole; it was no secret.  If it was the gentleman's (Mr. Steuart's) misfortune not to be here during the proceedings of the Committee, it was not just that the House should, on his account, be detained by a repetition of all the arguments brought forward there.  The gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Norton) said it was a very easy thing to alter the Constitution.  He (Mr. Gwin) did not regard it in that light.  He thought the Constitution should be the permanent law of the land.  The gentleman, if he read the papers, would see that in Michigan a Convention had been called for this very purpose--to change to biennial sessions, and that they were now engaged in an exciting controversy on the subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I am opposed to the proposition because it places too much power in the hands of the Legislature.  It might produce serious evil.  A great political party object might be accomplished by making the sessions biennial.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, in answer to the remark of his colleague, (Mr. Gwin,) that they were having discussions and difficulty in Michigan in regard to such an amendment in the Constitution of that State, had only to say, that this very fact proved that there was a division of opinion among the people, and that there was no obvious necessity for the change.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD contended that biennial sessions of the Legislature would not shorten the time or diminish the expense of our Legislatures.  If there are laws that are necessary for the government of the people, it will require two months of a biennial session to pass what require one month, at each session, in two annual <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS said we were now just commencing the organization of a new government, and annual sessions of the Legislature would be absolutely necessary for many years to come--perhaps for the next fifty years.  An entire code of laws must be prepared; the Legislature could not, unless it met annually, present to the people of California such laws as the wants of the country required.  He therefore preferred the section in its present form, and would oppose the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES, in order to meet the objections which had been urged against the proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco, by those who were friendly to the object, proposed to amend the amendment, by saying:  "Until the Legislature shall have provide by law for biennial sessions."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN accepted the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Gwin's amendment, and it was rejected, by ayes 8, noes 25.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 2d section, as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 3 and 4 were then adopted; and, on motion, the House took a recess till 7 P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 7 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 5 of the Article on the Legislative Department being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  Senators shall be chosen for the term of two years, at the same time and place as members of the Assembly.  And no person shall be a member of the Senate or Assembly who has not been a citizen and inhabitant of the State one year, and of the county for which he shall be chosen six months next before his election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendments of the Committee of the Whole to the 5th section being under consideration, they were amended on motion of Mr. GILBERT, by inserting after the word "county," the words "or district;" and the question being taken by yeas and nays on the first clause of the section, as amended, it was decided in the affirmative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Botts, Brown, Carrillo, Crosby, Dent, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Lippitt, Lippincott, McCarver, Norton, Price, Pico, Reid, Shannon, Stearns, Steuart, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft, President--27.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Gilbert, Gwin, Halleck, Moore, McDougal, Sherwood, Tefft--8.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN was opposed to the qualification of twelve months' residence, and in favor of six.  By the first section, six month's residence was necessary to acquire the privileges of citizenship.  He was in favor of all citizens being eligible to the Legislature; and had contended for this principle in Committee of the Whole.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The yeas and nays being called, the motion was decided in the negative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Gilbert, Gwin, Moore--3.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Carrillo, Covarrubias, Crosby, Dent, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Hill, Hoppe, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, Lippincott, McCarver, McDougal, Norton, Price, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Sherwood, Shannon, Sansevaine, Stearns, Steuart, Tefft, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft, President--36.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 6th section was amended, on motion of Mr. LIPPITT, by striking out the word "that" and inserting therefor the words "that of the."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment of the Committee of the Whole was concurred in, and the section, thus amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 7th section, as reported, being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>7.  When the number of Senators is increased, they shall be annexed to one of the two classes, so as to keep them as nearly equal as practicable.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to strike out the entire section and substitute the following, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  When the number of Senators is increased, they shall be apportioned by lot, so as to keep the two classes as nearly equal in number as possible.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 8th section, as reported, being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Each House shall choose its own officers and judge of the qualifications, elections, and returns of its own members.  A contested election shall be determined in such manner as shall be directed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS wanted to know if these two parts were not contradictory.  Each House was to judge of the qualifications, elections, and returns of its own members.  But contested elections are to be decided in such manner as may be prescribed by law.  He desired to know if every legislative body was not the judge, and sole judge of the contested elections arising in that body.  He maintained that it was not proper that on Legislature should determine by law the contested elections of the next Legislature.  He presumed the intention was, that each Legislature should settle the elections of its own members; yet if the latter part of this clause meant any thing, it meant that one Legislature should have the power to say how a contested election in the next Legislature should be settled.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said that this matter was sufficiently explained in Committe of the Whole.  The first part of the section provides what is always provided for in every Constitution, that each House shall choose its own officers and judge of the qualifications, elections, and returns of its own members.  These are not the only election returns.  There are also the returns for Governor and other State officers.  The latter clause provides that contested elections in these cases shall be determined in such manner as the Legislature shall prescribe by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS had no objection to it, if the clause was made to read so.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT said it appeared to him that it was not necessary to insert this latter clause.  A court of law would be bound by the law of the land to settle these questions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS proposed to amend the clause by inserting the words "But other contested elections shall be determined in such manner as may be provided by law."  The clause might first be amended, and then, if it was deemed unnecessary by the House, it could be stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Botts' amendment, and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT moved to strike out entirely the last clause of the section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was determined in the affirmative; and the 8th section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 9th, 10th, and 11th sections were adopted, as reported by the committee of the Whole.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The 12th section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Members of the Legislature shall in all cases except treason, felony, and breach of the peace, be privileged from arrest; nor shall they be subject to any civil process during the session of the Legislature, nor for fifteen days next before the commencement and after the termination of each session.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT thought this section required a verbal alteration.  It was certainly not the intention to extend the privilege to all time, and yet there was no restriction as to time in the first clause of the section.  Why not begin the section by saying, "During the sessions of the Legislature, and for fifteen days," &amp;c.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON presumed that any body in the habit of reading English would say that the provision in the latter clause referred to the whole section.  There could be no other meaning made out of it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART suggested that the difficulty could be remedied by striking out the words "from arrest, nor shall they be subject to any civil process," and inserting "from any process of law," and substituting the word "and" for the word "nor" before the words "for fifteen."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT accepted the modification.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT then moved to strike out the entire section, and insert the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  During the session of the Legislature, and for fifteen days next before the commencement and after the termination of each session, members of the Legislature shall, in all cases, except treason, felony, and breach of the peace, be privileged from arrest and from any civil process.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment was rejected, and the section, as reported, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 13th, 14th and 15th sections were then adopted, as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 16th section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Any bill may originate in either House of the Legislature; and all bills passed by one House may be amended by the other.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE asked if there was any provision elsewhere in the case of money bills.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON replied that there was not.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE then moved to amend, by inserting the words, "except a bill for the appropriation of money," after the word "bill."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT thought such a provision was very necessary where one branch was a popular branch, coming directly from the people, and where the other was not; but he could see no necessity for it here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that it was the rule in the British Parliament, as also in the Congress of the United States, that all money bills should originate in the lower House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT said there was very good reason for it in England.  The House of Commons was the popular branch.  So, also, in the Congress of the United States.  The members of the House of Representatives are the direct representatives of the people; they are the popular branch of Congress.  Not so with the Senate.  The Senators represent the States; they are the delegates from the States.  In both of these cases there is very good reason why money bills should originate in the lower House.  But in our case, both Houses are elected directly by the people, and both directly represent the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER fully concurred in the views of the gentleman from San Francisco.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE said it was true that under the Constitution of California the Senate would be as popular a branch of the Legislature as the Assembly, with the exception that they served for double the length of time; but he presumed it would be admitted that the lower House would be the most numerous branch of the Legislature; and if that House passed the measure first, it would be most likely to receive the approbation of the body which was the least numerous.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER contended that bills of this kind would have to pass through both Houses; that both emanated directly from the people; and it made no difference in which House such bills originated.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed amendment, and it was rejected, by ayes 11, noes 16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 16th section, as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 17, 18, 19 and 20 were adopted, as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 21 being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No person holding any lucrative office under the United States or this State, or any other Power, shall be eligible to the Legislature:  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said he had an amendment to propose for the first part of the section.  He was very well aware that it was very difficult to get an amendment through the House at this time of the night, and he knew the determination of gentlemen generally to support the report of the Committee of the Whole; but he thought there was a very apparent necessity for this amendment.  He moved to strike out the first clause, from the word "no" to the word "legislative," inclusive, and insert in lieu thereof, "No person holding any lucrative office under the United States, or any other power, shall be eligible to any civil office of profit under this State."  He desired that the provision should be general.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was taken, and the amendment was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT did not think an office of $500 was lucrative in California.  He would be in favor of inserting $1,000.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said it might be a lucrative office at some future day.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 21st section, as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 22d section being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No person who may hereafter be a holder of public moneys, shall have a seat in either House of the Legislature, or be eligible to any office of trust or profit under this State, until he shall have accounted for and paid into the treasury all sums for which he may be liable.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE hoped this section would be rejected.  He could see no good reason for retaining it in the Constitution.  It was purely a legislative enactment.  Our legislative department already extended to the thirty-eight sections.  It was descending altogether too much into detail.  Not only was it objectionable in that point of view, but to him it seemed inexpedient and improper to adopt it, because it might defeat the wishes and feelings of the people by depriving an individual whom they might choose to elect of a right to hold a seat in the Legislature.  It was an unconstitutional provision.  It fixed a penalty without any trial; it required no verdict against the accused in any competent court.  Who was to be the judge of the liability under this clause?  There was no provision for it.  Perhaps a very honest man might be disfranchised under it--a man who, by a visitation of God, might be unable to settle his accounts at the proper time.  He trusted that the provision would either be rejected or so amended as to meet these objections.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT agreed with his colleague, (Mr. Price,) that this was rather a legislative section than a constitutional one; and not only that, but even considered as a legislative provision, it was imperfectly drawn up.  The last line says: "all sums for which he may be liable."  Who is to determine that liability?  The Legislature would necessarily be obliged to point out some means by which that liability should be determined.  As the section stands, it is imperfect even as a legislative provision.  It is not necessary, so far as I can see, to adopt it in the Constitution.  The Legislature certainly is competent to pass laws punishing defaulters.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS had heard a great many Constitutions quoted here.  He would now quote the Constitution of Mexico.  It provides that no notorious gamblers shall be eligible; but it then goes on to make certain provisions--that he only shall be deemed a notorious gambler who shall be convicted in a court of justice.  You <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT said that this matter was fully discussed in Committee of the Whole.  He would only notice one or two of the objections urged against it.  First, as to the length of the legislative department.  Any person who reflected upon the peculiar circumstances and position of this country, and the absolute necessity for clear, full, and definite provisions, which would meet the great variety of circumstances, would see that it was not too long.  In the next place these restrictions were made in regard to every officer created under this Constitution.  The only valid reason he had heard urged, was that contained in the example cited from the Mexican Constitution by the gentleman from Monterey, but if the gentleman would refer to the defalcations in the old States he would find that his argument did not hold good.  He (Mr. Botts) said that the guilt should be proved in a court of justice.  But every person knew that certain men were guilty of embezzlement, yet how many of these could be proved guilty in a court of justice?  He (Mr. Tefft) looked upon it as a most important provision, and hoped it would be retained in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER was astonished that legal gentlemen should urge the necessity of altering this, and allowing the Legislature to act upon it as it thought proper.  This provision is to deprive a man of a constitutional privilege.  What right has the Legislature to deprive a man of the power to hold office if the people elect him to it, unless it is made a constitutionl provision.  It is proper and right that no functionary under the State authority, who has not accounted for all the moneys in his hands, should wallow in office, and continue his system of embezzlement.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said it was perfectly competent for the Legislature to provide that any man who was convicted of felony, should not be entitled to be elected to a seat in the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER saw no evil, but a great deal of propriety in the section as reported.  The system of fraud practised by public officers was such as to require this constitutional check.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON thought it most singular that there should be this eternal harping upon questions having been discussed in Committee of the Whole.  He hoped no considerations of that kind would be allowed to restrict the action of the House.  So far as the section was concerned, he regarded it as as encroachment upon the rights and privileges of the Legislature.  It was not a matter that properly came within the province of a Convention forming a Constitution.  You say here that a man shall be deprived of his rights; that he shall not be eligible to any office when charged with embezzlement; when in another section you declare that no man shall suffer punishment until he has first had the advantage and benefit of a trial by jury, and is convicted by the judgment of his peers.  Is this consistent?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE was in favor of disfranchising a thief whether he was an official functionary or private individual; and he was in favor of providing in this Constitution that a thief should not only be ineligible to office, but that he should be put in the penitentiary.  He would therefore move to amend the section by substituting therefor, the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No person who shall be convicted of the embezzlement or defalcation of the public funds of this State shall ever be eligible to any office of honor, trust, or profit, under this State.  And the Legislature shall, as soon as practicable, pass a law providing for the punishment of such embezzlement or defalcation as a felony.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Pending this amendment, the House adjourned to 10 o'clock, A.M., to-morrow.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, OCTOBER 2, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by Padre Ramirez.  Journal of yesterday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER submitted the following resolutions, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I shall vote against these resolutions; and I am compelled to give very briefly my reasons for doing so.  As to the principle avowed by the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. McCarver,) that the public lands necessarily belong to the State, I am willing to acknowledge it; but I shall vote against any action of this Convention on that subject, simply because I think it is a proper subject of legislative action.  I do not think we are here to instruct the Legislature as to what they shall do.  It is for the people to give their instructions to the Legislature on this subject; and as one of the people, I am ready at the polls to instruct the representative for whom I may cast my vote, to take all proper measures to advocate, not I will say this right, but this matter of policy.  That ground I am ready to take, but I will take it at the polls.  I do not think this Convention has any thing to do with the matter at all.  I do not object to the principle avowed in the resolutions, but to any action of this House on the subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  If the House does not think proper to ask the Legislature to do this, the resolutions may be shaped in some other way; but my main object is to assert the right on the part of the people of California, which is asserted by all the Western States.  I think the subject comes very properly within this Constitution, in which we declare all our rights.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the resolutions were referred to the Committee of the Whole.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I shall oppose that resolution exactly for the same reason that I opposed the last.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  We have made up our minds on this subject, and can vote without any discussion.  I therefore move the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  The principle of the previous question as I understand it, under the rules of this House, has not been acted upon fully.  I believe the rules require that a call for the previous question shall be seconded by a majority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR.  The rule says one-fifth of the members present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I dislike this manner of moving the previous question before the House has considered the subject, and shall therefore vote against the motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I hope there will be a direct vote on this proposition.  I want to see every man on record in regard to the right of the people of California to this money.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I shall state the reason of my vote.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  Is it not a rule of the House, that when a resolution is objected to, it shall lie over one day?</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that it was, but the previous question was now pending.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Is it competent for any member to state the reasons why the previous question should not be put?</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR was of opinion that it was not.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  If I have a right, under the rules of the House, to ask that this resolution lie over one day, I make that motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  No such motion can be made under a call for the previous question.  That question must first be decided, and then the gentleman, if he pleases, can make his motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Further discussion took place in regard to the rules.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS asked the yeas and nays on Mr. Sherwood's motion, and they were ordered, and resulted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Crosby, Dent, Dimmick, Ellis, Foster, Hanks, Hoppe, Halleck, Hastings, Larkin, Lippincott, McCarver, McDougal, Pedrorena, Pico, Sutter, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns.--22.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Nays.--Messrs. Botts, Carrillo, Covarrubias, De La Guerra, Dominguez, Gilbert, Gwin, Hobson, Hollingsworth, Lippitt, Price, Rodriguez, Reid, Vallejo, Walker, Wozencraft, President--17.</P>
196.sgm:<P>So the Convention having thus determined that the main question should be put.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the adoption of the resolution,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT said: It is a principle of our Constitution, that no man can be taxed without his own consent; and as I believe the merchants who paid these duties were taxed by their own consent, I shall vote for the adoption of the resolution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO.  In my opinion, the money belongs to the people of California; but as I conceive that we are not called upon here to express any opinion on the subject, I shall vote in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LARKIN.  I shall vote in the negative, because I do not believe the money belongs either to the United States or to the people of California.  It belongs to the merchants from whom it was illegally collected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The vote was then taken, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS--Messrs.  Aram, Brown, Carrillo, Covarrubias, Crosby, Dent, Dimmick, Ellis, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hoppe, Halleck.  Hastings, Hollingsworth, Lippitt, Lippincott, Moore, McCarver, McDougal, Pedrorena, Price, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Vallejo, Walker, Wozencratt, President.--35.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Botts, De La Guerra, Dominguez, Hobson, Larkin.--5.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  If I understand the gentleman right, he is not only in favor of passing this resolution, but something further.  But the argument he has made here would induce him, in my opinion, to vote in the negative on this resolution.  The resolution says that the money collected after the treaty of peace, and before the passage of the revenue laws, of right belongs to the people of California.  The gentleman, if I understand him, says it belongs to the merchants.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I said no such thing.  I said it did not belong to the General Government; and that it was a question of law to be decided in the courts, and not by this Convention, whether it belonged to the merchants or to the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I understand the gentleman's argument to be that this money was illegally collected, and ought to be paid back to the merchants.  Now, I understand him to say that it is a matter to be decided by law.  The Supreme Court <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  If the decision of the Supreme Court is in favor of the merchants they will get it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I ask the gentleman's opinion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  The gentleman has no right to ask my opinion, and I shall give no opinion on the subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  Then the gentleman flinches.  I believe it was perfectly proper that this money should be collected as it was; that these goods should not have been admitted without paying duties.  We are a portion of the people of the United States.  I admit, as the gentleman states, that Congress should have given us a government.  But Congress has neglected to give us a government, and this money has been collected, not from the merchants, but from the people.  It is a false position that it has been collected from the merchants.  The merchant has received back his twenty per cent; it is the people of the State who paid the tax, and to them of right it belongs.  If the gentleman desires to introduce a further resolution, that these revenue laws should not have been passed by Congress unless the protection of government had been extended over us also, I perfectly agree with him.  I agree, that a revenue law, taking money out of the pockets of the people and putting it into the Treasury of the United States, without establishing any territorial government for our protection, was wrong.  But the resolution, so far as it goes, tells the truth.  I cannot consent to the doctrine that this money should, upon any pretext, go back to the merchants.  They have no right to one cent of it.  The people have already paid it to them.  The gentleman does not express any opinion upon that point.  He leaves it to the Supreme Court.  I claim that it belongs to the people, and cannot be taken out of their pockets and paid again into the pockets of the merchants.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS. Mr. President: when Greek meets Greek then comes the tug of war.  How glad I am, sir, to see the subtle gentleman from Sacramento floored in his own way by the old stager from the Halls of Congress.  He knew how to open the debate when the gate had been shut down upon him.  Gag laws will not answer for him; and he has given us all the advantage which he has taken himself.  I thank him for it.  I shall be in favor of the reconsideration of this question, because I want to see that vote recorded on its proper footing.  I thought we had gone far enough in overstepping the proper bounds of a Convention after we had erected ourselves into a Legislature.  We have passed legislative enactments enough to make us a legislative body in addition to that of a Convention.  And now this proposition amounts to this: that we shall erect ourselves into a court, and if not instruct our judges how they shall decide this question, absolutely decide it for them.  Our action here reminds me of a little boy, who at the head of a company, desires to carry the colors, play the drum, and act the part of captain himself.  We are a Convention, a Legislature, and now we are a Court.  I shall vote against the resolution, Mr. President, because it decides a judicial question, with which we have nothing at all to do.  It may be a question for the courts to decide whether this money belongs to the United States, to the merchants who paid the duty, or to the people of California.  That is purely a legal question.  The gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood) is anxious to obtain opinions on the subject.  Does he want to know mine?  If he does, I can tell him how he will get it.  He can get any legal opinion from me by paying the money for it.  That is all I have to say about the matter.  This Convention has nothing to do with it; any decision made here would be ruled out of a court; it is totally incompetent to decide judicial questions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I have a few words to say on this matter; but I do not regard it in the same light as the gentleman from Monterey.  We are not deciding a judicial question.  It is a question of right between the people of California and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN then withdrew his motion for a reconsideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I believe that Congress has the control of this matter, and will give it to the State of California without any action on our part.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  When I offered the resolution which has been adopted, it was simply to get an expression of opinion of this body as to the real owners of this money collected in our ports since the treaty of peace, and before the revenue laws went into effect.  There was a great deal of doubt on the subject, and it was simply to get the expression of this House that I offered the resolution.  The previous question was passed without my knowledge.  The gentleman (Mr. Gwin) complains of the gag law.  After the vote was taken, my worthy friend (Mr. Gwin) jumps up and moves a reconsideration; makes his stump speech, and then withdraws it without allowing the House to say any thing more.  I wonder if that is not a gag law with a vengeance!</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. President, I believe this money belongs of right to the people of California; and it was to get the opinion of this House as to that right, that I offered the resolution.  After establishing that right, I consider that we can make such a disposition of it as we may deem proper.  I shall therefore vote in favor of the resolution of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I was very sorry when I first heard that this subject was introduced into this House.  I believe with many members who have spoken on the subject, that it is beyond our province; but when the House had determined to act upon it, and it was brought to me to say whether I thought in justice this money belongs to the people of California or not, I could but say that it does belong to them.  But I think this latter resolution is an injudicious one.  The first merely expresses an opinion on this question of right; this makes an actual disposition of the fund.  I believe that that course, if not forbidden by orders from Washington, wil be pursued; if forbidden, this resolution can have no effect, for no one will talk of taking the money by force.  It might place the existing civil authority here in a very embarrassing position, either of disobeying the orders from Washington, or the wishes of this House.  A communication has been laid before the House, explaining the position in which this fund is.  Of what avail can it be to throw embarrassments in the way of the authorities which have this matter in hand?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  Do I understand the gentleman to say that he speaks here <HI REND="italics">ex cathedra</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I merely give it as my individual opinion.  I am not authorized to state what will be done, or what will not be done.  I stated that I believed from what had already occurred on this matter, that that course would be pursued.  I do not know that it will be done the moment this Government goes into operation; nor do I know what instructions will be received from Washington.  I know <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I do not doubt at all that the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Halleck) speaks the opinions of the Executive; and it is also my opinion.  I believe that the gentleman at the head of this government now, if he had a seat upon this floor, would vote for this resolution.  I believe he thinks so; I believe he will do as a soldier ought to do.  He will obey his orders from Washington, be they what they may.  I believe he would do what the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Halleck) would not do.  What are we told?  We are told that, in the opinion of the gentleman from Monterey, this resolution is unnecessary, because the powers here will do this thing if the authorities of the United States do not order otherwise.  We were told a little while ago, about the other resolution: Express your opinion, it may have some influence upon the authorities at Washington.  I say then, express your opinion here that this money ought to be turned over to the treasury; it may have some influence upon the authorities at Washington.  Mr. President, I thought the feathers would fly when this resolution came up.  I am going to insist upon it.  I am going to do more.  I call for the yeas and nays upon it.  I want to see who it is that votes that this money belongs to the people of California, and are not willing to say that if it does it ought to be paid over to the Treasurer.  I want to see who will say that this money, belonging to California, ought to be kept in the coffers of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I renew my motion to lay the resolution on the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  If I am called upon to say whether I believe this money ought to be paid into the treasury of California, I must say that it ought to be.  I have said it is ours; but, sir, if the motion is before the House to lay on the table, I shall sustain that motion.  If this question is forced upon us, I am constrained to vote for the resolution; but I think it injudicious to compel the House to vote directly upon that question, and if I can avoid it I will do so.  It appears to me that there is no indisposition to turn the money over to us; therefore I prefer not voting upon that subject.  It would be liable to the inference that the authorities are unwilling to take that course.  I voted for the resolution declaring that the money is ours.  I believe there is every disposition to give it to us; and where the authorities are willing to pay the money into the treasury of the State, I am not willing to vote upon a resolution, the principle of which I agree with, but the passage of which by this House would convey the idea that there was not such willingness on the part of the authorities here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  For the very same reasons just adduced by the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Hastings,) I shall vote against laying on the table, and for the adoption of the resolution.  The concurrence of this House with the presumed future action of the existing civil government, would be as little as we could give.  I am willing to vote in concurrence with that presumed action.  It will be a further justification, if any is necessary, why this should be done.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I am in favor of laying this matter on the table.  I come to my conclusions on somewhat different premises from my colleague.  Those who hold this money in custody at present are governed by instructions.  I do not wish to place the present Executive of the Territory, or those who have this money in charge, in the embarrassing attitude, either of disobeying their instructions from Washington, or disobeying the will of this Convention.  I am decidedly of opinion that the money belongs to the people, as my colleague from Sacramento has expressed himself; and I believe that when the present authorities of California are satisfied that they can obey the wishes of the people without disobeying their instructions, that they will do so.  Under these circumstances, I shall sustain the motion to lay on the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I am at a loss to determine in what attitude we are now.  I had supposed our legitimate purpose here was to form a Constitution for adoption <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  In the absence of my friend from Monterey, (Mr. Botts.) I beg leave to make an explanation.  The gentleman from Montery expresses no legal opinion whatever.  He distinctly declines expressing any.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I allude to no particular person.  My remarks have reference to more than one.  I was speaking of the uselessness of our spending the time of the people here upon questions which do not legitimately belong to us.  Our decision can have no legal bearing upon this matter.  We have already spent a great deal of time unnecessarily in debating questions of order.  Most of the members are anxious to finish the business of the Convention and return to their homes.  I trust that this resolution, and all other subjects foreign to our business, will be laid upon the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE.  I have merely to say that there has been a great deal of debate here for nothing.  No man in the House doubts that the Government of the United States have collected money that they had no right to collect, and that the money is the hands of its officers.  I can see no harm in claiming what belongs to the people of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on Mr. Halleck's motion to lay the resolution on the table--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS called for the years and nays.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS.  In voting for the original resolution, I merely understood it as expressing the opinion of this House that the moneys collected in the ports of California after the treaty of peace, and before the revenue laws were extended here, belongs to the people of California.  I do not consider that we have any right to instruct the Executive of this Territory as to what he shall do with that money.  I shall therefore vote in favor of laying the resolution on the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and decided in the affirmative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs.  Aram, Brown, Carrillo, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Lippincott, Pedrorena, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Walker, Wozencraft--24.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Botts, Gilbert, Gwin, Larkin, Lippitt, Moore, Price, President--8.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD submitted the following resolution, but objection being made to its consideration at this time, it was laid over:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:, That a commission, consisting of John B. Weller and Peter H. Burnett, be appointed by this Convention, whose duty it shall be to prepare a Code of Laws for the government of California, to be submitted to the Legislature for its adoption, at the first session thereof:  <HI REND="italics">provided</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. PRICE, the report of the Select Committee, appointed to receive designs for a "Seal for the State of California," was taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE submitted the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT submitted the following as an amendment to Mr. Price's resolution, and the question being taken thereon, it was rejected:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VALLEJO submitted the following, as an amendment to Mr. Price's resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention took a recess until 3, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The consideration of the Report of the Select Committee, appointed to receive designs for a Seal for the State of California, was resumed; and, after debate, the question being taken on the resolution of Mr. Vallejo, it was rejected, ayes 16, noes 21.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on Mr. Price's resolution, it was adopted.  The explanation of the design was ordered to be entered on the journal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved that the "Seal" just adopted be the "Coat of Arms" of the State of California, and the motion was decided in the affirmative, 21 to 16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE submitted the following, which was ordered to lie on the table:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LA GUERRA submitted a resolution, agreeably to previous notice, to reconsider the vote by which the Convention adopted the first section of Article II, on the "Right of Suffrage," with a view to offer the following, as a substitute:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"Every white male citizen of the Unted States, and every male citizen of Mexico, (Indians, negroes, and descendants of negroes excepted,) who shall have elected to become a citizen of the United States, under the treaty of peace exchanged and ratified at Queretaro, on the 30th day of May, 1848, shall be entitled to vote at all elections which are now, or may hereafter be authorized by law; but this section shall not be construed to prevent the Legislature from admitting such Indians to the elective franchise as they may in future deem capable thereof."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The resolution was laid over.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the consideration of the report of the Committee of the Whole on the Legislative Department, was resumed, the question being on Mr. Vermeule's motion to strike out section 22, and insert a substitute therefore.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was decided in the affirmative, yeas 20, nays 12.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to amend section 23, by inserting at the close thereof, the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>An accurate statement of the receipts and expenditures of the public money shall be attached to and published with the laws, at every regular session of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment was agreed to, and the section, as amended, adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendments of the Committee of the Whole to section 24, were concurred in, and the section, as amended, adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 25, 26, and 27, were adopted as reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendments of the Committee of the Whole to section 28, were concurred in, and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 29 and 30, were adopted as reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On the question of concurring in the amendment of the Committee of the Whole to section 31, the yeas and nays were ordered, and resulted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Carillo, Covarrubias, Crosby, Dent, De la Guerra, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Jones, Larkin, Lippitt, Pedrorena, Price, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Shannon, Stearns, Sansevaine, Wozencraft, President--32.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. McDougal, Norton, Snyder, Sherwood, Vallejo--5.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The section, as amended, was then adopted by yeas and nays, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Carrillo, Covarrubias, Crosby, Dent, De La Guerra, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Jones, Larkin, Moore, McCarver, Norton, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft, Wozencraft, President.--34.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. McDougal, price, Vallejo--3.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCDOUGAL submitted the following as an additional section, to come in after section 31:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Any one member of either House shall have liberty to dissent from and protest against any act or resolution which he may think injurious to the public, or any individual or individuals, and have the reason of his dissent entered on the journal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being taken thereon, it was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 32d section was adopted as reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT moved to amend the 33d section by substituting in the last line thereof, the word "manner" for the word "cases."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was decided in the negative, and the section adopted as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 34th section as amended by the Committee of the Whole, being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>34.  The Legislature shall have no power to pass any act granting any charter for banking purposes; but associations may be formed under general laws for the deposit of gold and silver.  But no association shall make, issue, or put in circulation, any bill, check, ticket, certificate, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of any bank, to circulate as money.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>It shall be the duty of the Treasurer of the State to receive on deposit gold and silver, either coined or in bullion, and to issue certificates for the same, redeemable on demand at the Treasury in gold or silver coin, under such restrictions and upon such terms as the Legislature may prescribe.  But no certificate of deposit shall be given for any sum less than five dollars.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The issuing of hills, checks, or promissory notes, or other paper to circulate as money, shall be <HI REND="italics">t</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Another reason is this; you want a mint in California; you cannot have one; you cannot get it.  As stated on the floor of Congress, it would take three years to prepare the machinery for a mint; you cannot have one in three years, nor can you have it at all, because the expense of labor required to conduct it would be too great in this country.  That labor must be paid at California prices, and the Government of the United States, if it pays for it, will charge it to the individuals whose money it coins; that is the universal rule.  To coin your money here will cost you so much more, that you will send your bullion to Philadelphia to be coined there, just as you send your hides to be manufactured where it is done cheapest.  I say, then, you will not have a mint here, and I say this is the best substitute that you can devise for a mint.  Now, sir, I want to see whether the gentlemen who were talking this morning about gold diggers, are willing now to adopt this to secure the working men from the sharpers and shavers of San Francisco.  I disavow the application to any gentleman in this Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion the House took a recess till half-past 7 P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>EVENING SESSION, HALF-PAST 7 O'CLOCK.</P>
196.sgm:<P>At 8 o'clock, the President called the Convention to order, when it was evident that there was not a quorum of members present.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved for a call of the House, with the understanding that some measures should be taken to compel the attendance of the absentees, and inflict some punishment upon them.  The Convention had nearly terminated its labors, and it was necessary that members should be punctually in their seats in order to expedite the transaction of business.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The roll was then called, when it was found that there were twenty-five members absent.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the Sergeant-at-Arms was furnished with a list of the absentees, and directed to bring them into the Hall.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After a brief lapse of time the Sergeant-at-Arms returned with several members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said, that as a quorum of members was then present, he would move that all further proceedings be suspended; which was agreeed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then resumed the consideration of the Article on the Legislative Department, the question pending being on the amendment of Mr. Botts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After some debate on the same grounds taken in Committee of the Whole, the substitute was rejected.  The amendment adopted in Committee of the Whole, to the section, was then discussed at length.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD opposed the amendment, and maintained the necessity of adopting the original section as reported by the Select Committee.  He contended, that in a community such as that of California, it was absolutely necessary to have some circulating medium, and that the certificates of deposite, as provided for by the original resolution, would be used as such, and were absolutely necessary.  If the amendment was adopted this would be prevented entirely.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN was astonished at the gentleman for wheeling round as suddenly as he had, advocating banking principles, and expressing himself in favor of creatng a circulating medium of paper--a paper currency.  He thought the gentleman must have received some encouragement from some unknown quarter, to have induced him to go so far.  It was very evident that there was a desire creeping into the Convention, to permit the issue and circulation of certificates of deposit, which was baking system of the very worst character.  He was astonished that he (Mr. Sherwood) should get up and say, that the commerce of the country could not be carried on without some such circulating medium, when it was known that the entire system was being rapidly rooted out in the United States.  Iowa, New York, and Louisiana, had all done away with the entire banking system in their Constitutions, and he would ask if it was more necessary here than there.  To give the Convention an idea what the opinion of one of the best and soundest financiers of the country was upon the subject of the simple issue of certificates of deposit--not from an association or corporate body as a paper currency--he would read the argument of Mr. Walker in favor of establishing a branch mint in the city of New York:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"With a branch mint at New York, the transactions of business would be undisturbed by the operations of the constitutional treasury.  It is true, that even with such a branch there the collection of duties in specie would operate as a check, not upon the issues, but upon the over-issues of their banks; a gentle and most useful check, restraining their over-issues, and mitigating if not preventing those revulsions which are sure to ensue when the business of the banks, and as a consequence that of the country, is unduly extended.  Credit is useful and most abundant only when it is based upon capital and specie and a legitimate business and commerce.  But when it is stretched beyond those limits, it necessarily produces revulsions, disastrous not only to the parties involved, but to the commerce and business of the whole country.  It is this fatal tendency to overissues, and the too great and dangerous extension of their business, which constitute the greatest objection to our banking system; and those banks which are based on a sound capital, and desire to conduct their business advantageously to themselves and to the country, ought to rejoice that such others as would transcend these limits are checked and restrained by the demand for coin created by the specie receiving and specie circulating constitutional treasury.  During the year 1847, when more than twenty-four millions of specie were brought into the country, and to a great extent paid in for duties and loans to the government, had this coin gone into the banks, as under the old State bank deposite system to a great extent it must, and have been made the basis of an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that gentlemen must do either one thing or the other--they could not be on both sides of the fence at the same time; they could not ride on two saddles at once.  They must either take the clause of the original section as a banking clause or as an anti-banking clause.  When the matter came up in Committee of the Whole, the gentleman from Sacramento said there was nothing like banking contemplated in the section--oh, no, nothing at all!  Nothing of the kind was intended; it couldn't be so construed; there wasn't a squinting that way.  They said, the whole Committee, chairman and all, there wasn't any banking contemplated; the chairman said so--he knew it; he swore to it.  He hated all banking, could not bear the very idea; the Committee hated it.  He (Mr. Botts) thought the chairman must have forgotten the gentleman from Sacramento.  The Committee all had such a holy horror of banking that they interposed but very little objection to the restrictions imposed in the Committee of the Whole; but now gentlemen were compelled to show their hands, the cloven foot appeared.  He was glad of it; there was now a chance of a fair fight.  Gentlemen were disposed to come out now openly and say that banking was a very good thing, an excellent thing, and never could do the least possible harm in the world.  He was afraid the members of the Committee had been imposed upon.  The chairman had been imposed upon--they had taken advantage of his credulity.  Good, easy soul, he had never dreamed that banking could creep in; and he (Mr. Botts) really felt for him.  He was afraid the chairman had not investigated the matter thoroughly.  To show how easily the bank monster could come in he would read the section.  The first sentence provided that no corporation should be allowed with banking priviliges.  There he was afraid the gentleman had paused; but if he proceeded a little further, he would find that "associations" could be formed--"associations" which issue certificates of deposit.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS then continued his argument in opposition to the original section and in support of the amendment, urging the same points which he had offered in Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said that he had not intended to say any thing upon the subject; but inasmuch as he had been alluded to, he would say a few words.  The section as reported from the Select Committee, prohibited the Legislature from chartering corporations for banking purposes, and he had thought that amply sufficient at the time, and he thought so still.  He was opposed to the banking system entirely.  There were other sections in the report which declared positively that there should be no associations for banking purposes.  He opposed the amendment because he then thought the section was strong enough, and he thought so still.  It was necessary to permit the issue of certificates of deposit, and no law could be made to prevent it--it was illegal and unconstitutional.  It could no more be done than could mercantile transactions be restricted--the issue of promissory notes prevented.  Certificates of deposit issued by individuals were already in circulation, and they could not be stopped.  If associations were not allowed to issue certificates by law, private individuals would issue them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES said that he would not have said a word, if it had not been said that this paper circulating medium could not be restricted--that the people had no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT was in favor of the section as amended, as it was thought that the original section was not sufficiently strong.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK had voted for the original section because he had supposed it strong enough; but when in Committee of the Whole it was suggested that it was not strong enough, he had himself proposed the amendment which was adopted, and the members of the Select Committee generally had voted for it.  He merely made this statement because an imputation had been cast upon the motives of the Select Committee, in reporting a section which would admit banking.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT gave notice that in case the Convention rejected the original section and amendment, he should offer a substitute combining the original section and the amendment, rejecting the clause which would admit banks.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE was opposed to banks and corporations, or associations with banking privileges, and thought too many restrictions could not be imposed.  He spoke at some length in support of the section as amended, and concluded by hoping that the record would be kept free of anything that could be construed into a toleration of banking.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT inquired whether it would be in order to move, before action on the amendment of the Committee of the Whole, an amendment to the original section; and being answered by the President in the negative, gave notice that he should move, after the vote had been taken on the amendment reported by the Committee of the Whole, to strike out of the original section the words "but associations may be formed, under general laws, for the deposit of gold and silver."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER was in favor of the section as amended.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD spoke at some length to show that there was nothing like banking intended, but that it was necessary to have certificates of deposite legalized and permitted to circulate.  He concluded by saying that a false issue had been raised, and that an attempt was made to humbug the Convention.  That if any such frauds as those anticipated were practised, the perpetrators would be punished for felony.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that he had an indistinct recollection of an institution called the United States Bank which broke one day, but he did not recollect that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS said his opinion was that the Convention was humbugged, and he would therefore move the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was sustained by the Conventon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN asked if he could offer an amendment if the present one was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided that it would not be in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN appealed, but after some little discussion withdrew his appeal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment of the Committee of the Whole was then adopted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Dent, Dimmick, Ellis, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Jones, Larkin, Lippitt, Lippincott, Moore, McCarver, Ord, Pedrorena, Price, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Stearns, Tefft, Walker, Wozencraft, President.--32.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. McDougal, Pico, Vallejo.--3.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the section, as amended--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN proposed to amend by striking out the section, as amended, and inserting in lieu thereof the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall have no power to pass any act granting any charter for banking purposes, and shall prohibit by law any person or persons, association or corporation, from making, issuing, or putting in circulation any bill, check, ticket, certificate, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of any bank to circulate as money.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided that no proposition to amend was in order, as the effect of the previous question had not been exhausted, but would continue in full force until the question had been taken on the section, as amended; when, if the section was rejected, it would be competent for any member to move to introduce any new matter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN appealed, contending that he had given notice of his intention to offer it, previous to the call for the previous question.  He then proceeded to argue the appeal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON rose to a point of order, and called the attention of the President to the 18th rule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The PRESIDENT called Mr. Shannon to order, and said he was acquainted with the rule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR explained its position, and decided that the appeal was debateable.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN called upon Mr. Botts to say whether he had not stated that he would withdraw his amendment to allow him (Mr. Gwin) to offer one; and whether he did not understand the Chair to decide that he could offer it after Mr. Bott's resolution had been acted upon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that he did so understand the decision of the Chair.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that when he gave that decision the previous question had not been demanded; but that since it had been called, Mr. Gwin's amendment was not in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN then withdrew his appeal, but again renewed it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD gave notice that if the motion for reconsideration prevailed he should move as a substitute for the section, the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall have no power to pass any act granting any charter for banking purposes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The PRESIDENT explained that his statement to Mr. Gwin was made before the previous question had been moved and sustained, which act of the Convention had entirely changed the aspect of the proceedings.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The yeas and nays being ordered on the appeal, the decision of the Chair was sustained, by yeas and nays, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Covarrubias, Dent, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Hanks, Halleck, Hastings, Larkin, Lippincott, McDougal, Norton, Pedrorena, Pico, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft, Walker, Wozencraft.--25.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Botts, Brown, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hill, Hoppe, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippitt, Moore, McCarver, Ord.--13.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the adoption of the section, as amended by the Committee of the Whole, it was, by yeas and nays, decided in the affirmative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Dent, Dominguez, Foster, Gwin, Hanks, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippincott, Moore, McCarver, McDougal, Ord, Pedrorena, Price, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft, Walker, President.--28.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Botts, Covarrubias, Crosby, Dimmick, Ellis, Gilbert, Hill, Hastings, Larkin, Lippitt, Norton, Pico, Sherwood, Wozencraft.--14.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved a reconsideration of the vote just taken, and gave notice that if reconsidered he would offer, as a substitute for the section, the amendment which he had before proposed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved an adjournment, but the question was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being taken on the motion to reconsider, it was, by yeas and nays, decided in the negative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Botts, Covarrubias, Dimmick, Ellis, Gilbert, Gwin, Hill, Jones, Larkin, Lippitt, Moore, McCarver, Norton, Ord, Price, Pico, Sherwood, Wozencraft.--18.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Crosby, Dent, Dominguez, Foster, Hanks, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Lippincott, McDougal, Pedrorena, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft, Walker, President.--24.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendments of the Committee of the Whole to the 35th and 36th sections, were concurred in; and those sections were adopted as amended.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 37th and 38th section of the report of the Committee on the Constitution were adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 39th section, reported by the Committee of the Whole, being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved to strike out of the section the following words: "effectually prohibit free persons of color from immigrating to and settling in this State, and to."</P>
196.sgm:<P>He contended that this clause was contrary to the provisions of the Constitution.  He would read article 4, section 2, of the Constitution of the United States.  (Section read.)  He would next read the definition of the word "citizen," from Walker's Dictionary.  (Definition read.)  He would then read the definition of the word "inhabitant."  (Definition read.)  Under these definitions, all free persons of color were citizens of the place where they dwelt.  This was not the first time the question of free negroes had arisen in the formation of a Constitution.  It was the same question which had prevented the admission of Missouri into the Union.  They had a similar section in the Constitution, and when Congress admitted her, it was with the express condition that she should strike out this clause.  The Legislature ultimately agreed to do so; and after two years delay, she was admitted into the Union.  He did not wish that any bar to the speedy admission of California into the Union should exist, and therefore moved the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES opposed the amendment of Mr. Norton as inoperative, also.  The section as it would stand if amended, would prohibit owners of slaves from bringing them into the country to set them free.  This was already provided for by the section which prohibited involuntary servitude forever.  The fear was not that owners of slaves would bring them here to manumit them, but that they would do this in the States and bring them here under bonds of servitude.  He should vote for the section as it stood.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER moved to amend the amendment of Mr. Norton by striking out the last clause of the same, from the words "as will," to the words "and to," and insert the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall, at its first session, pass such laws as will effectually prohibit free persons of color from immigrating to and settling in this State, except such as have been previous to immigration hither, entitled to the right of citizenship in any one of the States of the United States, and to effectually prevent the owners of slaves from bringing them in to this State for the purpose of setting them free.</P>
196.sgm:<P>He contended that this overcame the difficulties which precluded the admission of Missouri into the Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON objected to it as inoperative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, the Convention adjourned.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 3, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In Convention.  Prayer by the Rev. Mr. Willey.  Journal of yesterday read, amended, and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS offered a resolution to adjourn <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The question was taken, and the resolution was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. McCARVER, the House resumed the consideration of the 39th section of 4th article, being the section on the prohibition of free negroes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER then moved the following amendment to the amendment of Mr. Norton:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall, at its first session, pass such laws as will effectually prohibit free persons of color from immigrating to and settling in the State, and to effectually prevent the owners of slaves from bringing them to this State for the purpose of setting them free:  <HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said: On yesterday evening after I had presented the first clause of the article now under consideration, I was shown the proviso which obviated the objections which had been made to the admission of Missouri, and which enabled her to become a State of the Union.  I beg leave to read you the original article as proposed in the Constitution of Missouri, with the proviso which was subsequently attached to it, (see Constitution of Missouri,) which is almost identically the same words contained in the prohibition here.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I had supposed that this question was fully understood and argued; and I certainly should not in my present state of health trouble the House with any remarks, were it not that I stand upon this floor as a representative of a community of California which has a right to be heard upon this question--a part of California that is determined to carry this provision into effect.  It is a question of immense importance to the mining districts of California; it is those districts that are threatened.  It is not to the South, but it is to these mining districts where the money is to be made that these persons will go.  There they will enter into competition with and degrade the white labor of the miners; it is they who desire to speak on this floor.  It is useless to say that this question has not been discussed in those districts; I, who canvassed my own district, say that it was there discussed, and in all that district I saw but one solitary individual who was not anxious and determined to carry out such a measure, so far as his own vote was concerned.  Then, as one of the representatives of the districts most prominently interested, I claim that they shall have the right to vote upon this question, either <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The peculiar position of this country, the vast advantage which labor has here over capital, will bring laborers from all parts of the world; and we know that in all parts of the United States there are these free negroes, oppressed, degraded, vilified at home, with no rights, no privileges--despised by society; they will see the advantage that they would have in this country; they will muster their little all and come out here, where they can gain ten or twenty times what they can at home.  In the State of New York there are thousands of them--and in all the States of the Union.  They will be rushing where labor is profitable.  But this is not the greatest danger.  The danger is, that the citizens of the Southern States, whose slaves are gaining nothing, will emancipate them under certain contracts of servitude here for one year or more.  Slaves are worth from three to four hundred dollars in Mississippi; it would be a very good speculation to bring them here to serve either in the mines, or for a certain time as servants.  We know that such is the intention, and that it has been made manifest to members of this House by private letters received from the States.  Why should we not have the liberty of guarding against this evil?  Sir, in the mining districts of this country we want no such competition.  The labor of the white man brought into competition with the labor of the negro is always degraded.  There is now a respectable and intelligent class of population in the mines; men of talent and education; men digging there in the pit with the spade and pick, who would be amply competent to sit in these halls.  Do you think they would dig with the African?  No, sir, they would leave this country first.</P>
196.sgm:<P>There is one view in relation to the constitutionality of this question which I believe has not been taken.  There is nothing in my mind clearer than our constitutional right to put this restriction in our Constitution.  There is no provision in the Constitution of the United States prohibiting it.  It would be absurd; it cannot be.  Every State has the right to determine the qualifications of its own citizens.  By the Constitution of the United States, article 4, section 2, it is provided that "the citizens of each State shall be entitled to all the privileges and immunities of citizens in the several States."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now, it is contended by gentlemen on this floor that, because New York, one of the States of the Union, sees fit to invest with the privileges of citizenship a class of citizens who, when that article was introduced into the Constitution of the United States, were not recognized by any of the States, that they are thereby invested with the rights of citizenship in every State in the United States, and that every State is bound to acknowledge them with all the privileges and rights of citizens.  That construction would lead to the most absurd of absurdities.  Sir, when that article was introduced into the Constitution of the United States, there was not one single State of the Union which endowed the African race with the rights of citizenship.  The State of New York was then a slave State, and so was Pennsylvania, and so was New Jersey, and so were nearly all the old thirteen colonies.  In no one of them was the negro entitled to the privileges of citizenship.  But if that construction be true, it would lead to another absurdity.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>I throw out these remarks more in the way of suggestion than any thing else, for I certainly have not had time to enter into this question at length.  I will conclude by endeavoring to explain, as far as I remember, the action of Congress in relation to the Missouri question.  The Constitution of Missouri contains an absolute and unconditional article.  (See Constitution of Missouri.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>That article has been in the Constitution of Missouri from the first to the last.  It has never been stricken out.  It is true that, being then a very new question, and perhaps very little understood in the halls of Congress, some difficulty was made to this section.  What was the consequence?  They required the Legislature of Missouri to pass an explanatory act.  That was the whole extent and effect of the action of the Missouri Legislature; and upon that action, President Madison issued his proclamation to incorporate Missouri as a Stat of the Union.  The ordinance of the subsequent Convention of the people of the State of Missouri, says nothing whatever upon this subject.  They go on and decide about certain propositions of the United States in relation to the public lands; but they carefully abstain from annulling that portion of their Constitution.  The Legislature, after a preamble acknowledging its want of power to do anything for the State of Missouri, goes on and says, that as Congress requires it, we will do it.  I am not in favor of putting this clause absolutely in the Constitution, and for this reason; I am afraid that objections will be raised to one article and another article, and putting the objections on various grounds together, that a large vote will be brought to bear against it--some in favor of article one--others opposed to it and in favor of article two.  I think it should be submitted to the people in the form of a separate article, so that it can be voted upon separtely.  If they desire it to be a part of our fundamental law, the Constitution of the United States says that they shall have it, and we grant it to them in this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SNYDER.  It is with a great degree of reluctance, Mr. President, that I enter into this discussion; but I feel constrained to make a few remarks.  I oppose the introduction of the negro race as a matter of principle, not from any dislike to the race.  I know that the state of affairs here will draw a large number of negroes into this country, provided they are not excluded.  What are the evils resulting from it?  There is one of vast importance and of sufficient magnitude to swallow up all others; the bare contemplation of it for one moment would convince any person.  I have already stated that the negro and white man cannot <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:associate in their labors, <HI REND="italics">particularly in this country</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Now suppose that the slaveholder will say, "Mose, if you will go with me to California, I will give you your freedom after working there for four years;" or I will give you your freedom now, and have indentures made for the fulfilment of the agreement.  Do you suppose, Mr. President, that Mose would object?  No, never!</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now what would the slaveholder make by the operation in three years?  A working man in the mines by one year's labor will procure $4,000 at least in gold dust, which at the same rate for four years will be $16,000, leaving the handsome sum of $9,200, more by one half than what the negro would have paid by working his whole life in Missouri.  And this is accomplished in the short space of four years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Do you suppose that this will not be tried?  It will, sir, and depend upon it, you will find the country flooded with a population of free negroes--the greatest calamity that could befall California.  The evil effects of this may not be felt for a number of years, but should the door be left open, the evil will come, sooner or later.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I love ease and enjoyment as much as any man, but do you suppose that I would attempt to sacrifice the interest of California and her people for my own personal convenience?  No, sir, no such narrow and contracted views ever actuated me.  I go for the people--for all.  This is no <HI REND="italics">buncombe</HI>
196.sgm:<P>It can hardly be worth my while to show the utter incapacity of the free negro to be of any general good, as a community of people.  Have the intelligent gentlemen of which this Convention is composed, forgotten the negro riot in Philadelphia--in the district of Southwark?  Have they forgotten the burning of Pennsylvania Hall at Philadelphia?  Where the freest and most unlimited freedom, as my Sacramento friend said, was extended to the dusky gentlemen!  Where the picture of bright and rosy morning was hung beside that of deep, black midnight!  What a contrast!  While the staid old puritan was watching the progress of his favorite scheme of engrafting the snow white rose upon the dark ebony, a cloud was slumbering below the horizon, and in the stillness of night the pent up wrath within its bosom broke forth; the sky was lit up by the fiery elements at work upon the temple of the enthusiast; and in a brief space of time the once magnificent pile was a mass of ruins.  Long stood its bare and blackened walls-a warning to those who tamper with the rights and interests of a generous people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I need not carry you to San Domingo to look upon another picture, to convince you of the evils of a large population of free negroes; you are all aware of the facts of the history of that country.  And if not convinced, come with me to Jamaica; what is the condition of those people since their emancipation by the British Government? most miserable in the extreme, and the country ruined.  Their condition since they have been freed has proved the utter impossibility of raising them to the standard of a white man.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>If the people of the Sacramento district, or even the whole of California, were to oppose me, so long as I thought I was right, and convinced, in my own judgment, of the propriety and justice of my position, I would maintain it, <HI REND="italics">unless instructed otherwise</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  There seems to be some division of opinion on the constitutional question involved in this proposition.  It is supposed by some that we are denied the right to introduce such a section by the provision of the Constitution of the United States, which declares that the citizens of each State shall enjoy all the privileges and immunities of the citizens of the several States.  My opinion is that the proposed section does not conflict with this clause.  In addition to the reasons by which I arrive at this conclusion, there is one which I do not think has been adverted to.  What was the object of the Federal Constitution?  It was to bind together the thirteen colonies in one Union--to give them one interest--so far as that there should be no conflicts or collisions between the sovereign and independent States.  It was to prevent war between them, which would inevitably occur if they were distinct republics, in no way connected with each other.  The design of this section is evidently to carry out that very object.  What is the proper construction to be put upon this clause?  "The citizens of each State shall be entitled to all the privileges and immunities of the citizens in the several States."</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I give notice that I will introduce the following amendment at the proper time, as a substitute for the section under consideration:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall pass such laws as may be deemed necessary, either prohibiting the introduction and emigration of free negroes to this State, or prescribing the conditions upon which the introduction and emigration of such persons may be allowed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I shall consequently oppose the amendment now before the House, as it stands.  I oppose the resolution which I formerly sustained; and I do it, sir, because I have heard further from the people of California; not from my own immediate constituents, but from the people generally.  If the people are opposed to this measure, and it is likely to meet with any considerable opposition, it seems to me that the Constitution should not contain any thing of the kind.  When I voted before, I had heard no expression of opinion of my constituents in reference to it.  The question as to the prohibition of slavery was unanimous, and the vote in this House, prohibiting the introduction of slaves was unanimous; and the vote will be unanimous among the people.  But in this case we have nothing direct.  The members of the Legislature will come direct from the people, and in the mean time the question will be agitated.  Each member will know the feeling of his constituents on this subject.  It appears to me, therefore, that the Legislature is the only competent power to act understandingly upon it.  If the people desire such laws to be passed, they will pass them.  At present we are undecided whether they desire it or not.  It may be possible that a majority would prefer that a gentleman emigrating to this country should be allowed to bring with him his man and maid servant.  They may entertain different views from this House on the subject, and since we are not in possession of these views we cannot with propriety introduce such a clause.  I shall therefore oppose both the amendment and original resolution; and, at the proper time, introduce the substitute which I have just read.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  After the resolution which I had the honor to submit in Committee of the Whole, I deem it necessary to make a few remarks explanatory of the vote which I shall give upon this question.  A great deal has been said here as to the views entertained upon this subject at home--and especially in the various parts of California.  The election which took place in San Francisco was during my absence.  I had no opportunity of making my own views known upon the subject, and certainly very little opportunity of knowing the views of my constituents.  I say this, because I hold it due to myself, entertaining the opinions that I do, that every representative is bound by the will of his constituents when known to that representative; and, sir, upon a question involving principle, if I could believe that a majority were opposed to it, I would resign rather than, by my vote, carry that question against their will.  I can say truly that I concur entirely with the views expressed by the gentleman from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones) and the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Hastings) that one universal feeling is entertained in that upper country--especially among those newly arrived, against the introduction of free negroes.  I shall therefore vote against the reception of the resolution now presented to the House, and in favor of leaving the whole matter to be acted upon by the Legislature.  I differ materially from the views which have been expressed here by gentlemen in regard to the rights given to any persons so named as citizens of the various States.  Gentlemen will find that this question has been fully decided in two, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I should vote for the amendment, because I prefer it to the original resolution, if it would be in my power afterwards to vote against striking out the whole clause.  I consider this a mere matter of policy--an evil that is anticipated.  I can see that it is much better that we should leave the people to instruct the Legislature to take such steps as they should take, than that we should do it for them.  It will be fully competent for the Legislature to take that action.  I think instructions to the Legislature come a great deal more appropriately from the people than from us.  It is a right that belongs to the people.  These distinctions, as to citizenship, exist throughout the Union.  It has been done by other Legislatures in the States everywhere.  In South Carolina it has been done.  In New York distinctions have been made between the citizens of one State and another, and declared to be constitutional.  It has been done in the State of Virginia, and, as the gentleman from Sacramento told you before, it has been done in every State of the Union.  To the Legislature and to the people I wish to leave it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS.  I merely wish to state that I intend to oppose both the amendment and the original resolution; and for this reason, I consider that we have no right to place any restriction of the kind in our Constitution.  Some members have stated that they have been instructed by their constituents to advocate such a measure, and procure its adoption in this Constitution, if possible.  I can only say that my constituents were perfectly astonished when they heard that such a resolution had been proposed, and that it was actually adopted in Committee of the Whole.  Having just returned from San Francisco, I know the state of feeling there.  The excitement was general, and the people, without any exception, were decided in their opposition to such a measure.  I am of opinion, sir, that in San Francisco, if such a provision is embraced in the Constitution, it will be unanimously rejected.  I therefore hope that the whole subject will be left to the Legislature; and in order to prevent further waste of time in discussing it, I call for the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question, "Shall the main question be now put?" was then taken, and decided in the negative, by ayes 16, noes 22.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the substitute proposed by Mr. McCarver--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE said: In Committee of the Whole, I was in favor of a clause prohibiting the introduction of free negroes.  Since then, upon reflection, I have changed my mind completely upon that subject.  Now, to obviate any feeling on the part of the citizens of California against the Constitution, I think it best to vote against any amendment, and finally against the adoption of the section, and to leave it entirely to the Legislature to decide this matter.  They will get their authority directly from the people; and if the Constitution, as has been stated, be burdened with articles which should not be there, it may be rejected.  The Legislature will be more competent to pass such laws as the mass of the people may desire.  I shall therefore vote against the amendment, and finally against the adoption of the article.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the proposed substitute, and it was rejected, by yeas 9, nays 33, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Brown, Dent, Jones, Lippincott, Moore, McCarver, Shannon, Wozencraft, President.--9.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Carrillo, Covarrubias, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, McDougal, Norton, Ord, Price, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Stearns, Sansevaine, Steuart, Tefft, Vallejo, Vermeule--33.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCDOUGAL said: I now offer the following amendment as a substitute for Mr. Norton's:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall, at its first session, create such laws as will prohibit the introduction into this State, of any negro or mulatto who was previously a slave in any of the United States, or of any other country, and who is brought here under bonds of indenture; and any bond or indenture given and executed in this State, by any negro or mulatto who was previously a slave, shall be void.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I offer this simply for the purpose of stopping the emigration to this country of slaves who will be brought here under these bonds, if we prohibit slavery in this country.  Unless we adopt such a restriction, thousands of that class will be brought from the States for the purpose of working in this country under bonds.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT.  How is it to be determined whether these persons were formerly slaves or not?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I was in hopes that no more amendments would be offered.  I think a test vote has been taken as to having any thing upon the subject in the Constitution at all.  It is evident that a majority of the House are opposed to introducing any thing of the kind in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  My object in offering the amendment was to make it known in the States that there was such a feeling in California.  If it is left to the Legislature to create such laws, the laws cannot get to the States in time to prevent the slaveholders from bringing their slaves here.  I wish to stop them in time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I wish to know why a difference should be made between a free negro and one who was formerly a slave.  If you want to keep them out, I say keep them all out.  I am opposed to any such distinction.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. McDougal's amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the amendment offered by Mr. Norton,  to strike out a portion of the section reported--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said: For the purpose of having a direct vote on the proposition of the Committee of the Whole, I withdraw my amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the adoption of the section as reported by the Committee of the Whole, it was rejected by yeas 8, nays 31, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Carrillo, Dent, Hill, Larkin, McCarver, McDougal, Wozencraft, President--8.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippitt, Norton, Ord, Price, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Stearns, Sansevaine, Steuart, Tefft, Vallejo, Vermeule, Walker--31.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I move a reconsideration of that vote for the purpose of presenting that article separately to the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I certainly cannot sustain that motion.  I hope no such thing will be done.  If this question is to be submitted to the people, I know of a dozen questions that could just as well be put in a separate article to the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I can see no impropriety in submitting this question to the people, and leaving it to them to decide it.  Illinois did it, and what did the people say?  A majority of twenty thousand said it should be put in the Constitution.  I want the people of California to have all the privileges of the people of Illinois or any other State in the Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I am opposed to this reconsideration, for the simple reason that I want this whole matter submitted to the Legislature.  If the people desire such a clause, they can so instruct their representatives; and then an enactment of the Legislature can be made.  That will prevent any discussion of this question in Congress, and the probability of our being thrown out of the Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I want to see the yeas and nays upon this question, so that the people may know who was opposed to allowing this question to be submitted to them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I hope the gentleman will go and tell them that I, for one, was opposed to it.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  I think, by the action of the House, we rather reserve the right to the people than deny them that right.  I do not, for myself, know the views of the people who sent me here, upon this subject.  I think it far better to leave the exercise of that right to them, than make it imperative upon the Legislature, at its first session, to pass this law.  In regard to the resolution offered as a suggestion to the people to elect their representatives who will pass such laws, the question will be before the people, and they can express such views as they please through their representatives.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question to reconsider was then taken, and it was decided in the negative, by yeas 10, nays 27, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Dent, Gilbert, Gwin, Jones, McCarver, McDougal, Wozencraft, President--10.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Botts, Carrillo, Covarrubias, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, Norton, Price, Pico, Rodriguez, Stearns, Sansevaine, Steuart, Tefft, Vallejo, Vermeule--27.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I now propose to introduce a new section:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall pass such laws as may be deemed necessary, either prohibiting the introduction and emigration of free negroes to this State, or presenting the conditions upon which the introduction and emigration of such persons may be allowed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I do not conceive that there has been a test question on this subject.  The question involved in this proposition has not come before the House, whether any law shall be passed either prohibiting or allowing the introduction of free negroes.  I hold that it is an entirely new question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I offer the following amendment:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>At the suggestion of a friend I withdraw it; but I really do hope the time of the House will not be consumed in discussing such propositions as this.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I hope the gentleman will perceive the difference between directing the Legislature to do what they please, and directing them to pass laws which they must pass, according to the provisions of this Constitution, if this amendment is adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I shall vote against it on the ground that it amounts to nothing.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the amendment of Mr. Hastings was rejected, by yeas 6, nays 27, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Hastings, McDougal, Wozencraft, President.--6.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Botts, Carrillo, Covarrubias, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hill, Hobson, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, Norton, Ord, Price, Pico, Rodriguez, Stearns, Sansevaine, Steuart, Tefft, Vallejo, Vermeule.--27.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I beg leave, Mr. President, to offer the following resolution, as an additional section.  I have not much expectation, from the present condition of the House, that it will be adopted; but I offer it, nevertheless, for the benefit of posterity:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That the Legislature be instructed to enact such laws as shall effectually prevent convicts and paupers from being thrown into the State from abroad.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  No doubt posterity will be very much incensed at me, but I am opposed to that resolution.  It is altogether unnecessary.  The Legislature will know what they are about as well as the members of this Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the proposed section was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, Articles III and IV were then ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON, from the Committee on the Constitution, made a report, submitting a Preamble to the Constitution, which was read and referred to the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN submitted a minority report on the same subject, which was similarly disposed of.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO called for the consideration of his motion of yesterday, to reconsider the vote by which the first section of Article II, on the "Right of Suffrage" was adopted; and the question being taken on the proposition to reconsider, it was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the adoption of the first section, as amended by the Committee of the Whole, Mr. DE LA GUERRA submitted his amendment, as inserted in yesterday's proceedings, but withdrew the same to enable Mr. Botts to move to amend the original section, as amended, by inserting the word "white" before "males," and striking out the words "Indians, Africans, and descendants of Africans;" which amendments of Mr. Botts were adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DE LA GUERRA then offered, as a further amendment to the section, as amended, the <HI REND="italics">proviso</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE moved to amend Mr. La Guerra's amendment, by striking out the same, and inserting in lieu thereof, the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment of Mr. Vermeule was unanimously agreed to, and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Article, as amended, was ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention took a recess until 7 o'clock, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 7 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, Article V of the Constitution, on the "Executive Department," as reported from the Committee of the Whole, was taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first section was adopted as reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT moved to amend the second section by striking out all after the word "office" and before the word "and," and inserting therefor, the words "for two years from the first day of January next ensuing his election."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment was rejected, and the section adopted as reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT moved to insert, as an additional section, after the second section, the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>A Governor who has served <HI REND="italics">two consecutive terms</HI>
196.sgm:, shall be, and is hereby so declared, <HI REND="italics">ineligible</HI>
196.sgm: for the <HI REND="italics">third</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The yeas and nays being ordered on this proposed section, it was decided in the negative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Brown, Crosby, Gwin, Hill, Hoppe, Hobson, Hastings, Moore, Ord, Steuart, Wozencraft.--12.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Carillo, Dent, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Gilbert, Hanks, Halleck, Larkin, Lippincott, McCarver, McDougal, Norton, Price, Rodriguez, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Vallejo, Vermuele, Walker, and President.--24.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 13 being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Governor shall have power to grant reprieves, commutations, and pardons, after conviction, for all offences except treason and cases of impeachment, upon such conditions and with such restrictions and limitations as he may think proper, subject to such regulations as may be provided by law relative to the manner of applying for pardons.  Upon conviction for treason, he shall have power to suspend the execution of the sentence until the case shall be reported to the Legislature, at its next meeting, when the Legislature shall either pardon or commute the sentence, direct the execution of the sentence, or grant a further reprieve.</P>
196.sgm:<P>He shall communicate to the Legislature at the beginning of every session every case of reprieve, commutation, or pardon granted, stating the name of the convict, the crime of which he was convicted, the sentence and its date, and the date of the commutation, pardon, or reprieve.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said:  With the permission of the Chairman of the Committee, I would offer an amendment to this section.  No objection being made, I propose to amend by striking from this clause the words "commute and commutations" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I think that the power of reprieve should be with the Governor.  It may be, under some sudden excitement, that a person may be convicted; afterwards circumstances might be produced and brought before the Governor which would render proper the exercise of a power of reprieve, until further action should be had.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Botts' motion, and it was adopted, by yeas 18, nays 15.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the section, as amended, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 14, 15, 16, and 17 were then adopted as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT moved to amend the 18th section by striking out the words "a Comptroller."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE hoped the amendment would not prevail, for it appeared to him that it was one of the most important offices enumerated here.  No system of financial accounts could be kept in the State without a Comptroller.  He is the proper auditing officer, and is essential to the efficient transaction of the financial business of the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 18 and 19 were then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved to amend section 20th, by inserting the word "vote" instead of "ballot," which was agreed to; and the section, as amended, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 22 being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>22.  The Governor may suspend from office the Secretary of State, Comptroller, Treasurer, Surveyor General, and Attorney General during the recess of the Legislature, whenever it shall appear to him that such officer has in any particular violated his duty, and he shall appoint a competent person to discharge the duties of the office during such suspension, and within ten days after the meeting of the Legislature, or after such suspension; if made during the session, the Governor shall lay before that body his reasons for such suspension, and the Legislature shall determine by joint ballot whether the officer so suspended, shall be removed or restored to office.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said: I am not at all satisfied with that section; and I move to strike it out.  It is an extraordinary power conferred upon the Governor, and when it was before the Committee, I thought it was too great a power to confer upon the Governor.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I like the proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco; and I am authorized to say that this section is so objectionable in its character, that a motion to strike it out would have been made by the chairman of the Committee himself, if it had not came from another quarter.  I would like to ask the gentleman one question; I want to know if the case of death, resignation, or inability, is provided for?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  All vacancies can be filled by the Governor.  After having examined this matter, I am satisfied that this section gives too much power to the Governor.  The Governor has power to impeach; that will cover the whole ground.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Gwin's motion, and the 22d section was stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article V was then ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. NORTON, Article VI on the Judiciary, was then taken up, and sections 1, 2, and 3, were adopted as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 4 being under consideration, as amended, in Committee of the Whole--</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was taken upon concurring with the Committee in the first amendment, and the amendment of the Committee was concurred in.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the second amendment--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said: I am opposed to that amendment.  It was very fully discussed on both sides in Committee of the Whole.  I hold, sir, that the Supreme Court should have appellate jurisdiction in all cases, and that you cannot, in justice, limit them to any amount whatever.  As was said here in Committee of the Whole, there are many cases where the amount in controversy may not exceed $25, where the principal involved is of far greater consequence than though the question involved property to the amount of $20,000.  In all cases in the States, I believe the Supreme Court has jurisdiction whatever may be the amount in controversy.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the report of the Committee was concurred in; and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 6 being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD.  I move to amend by inserting after the words "issues of," the words "in all cases of law and fact."</P>
196.sgm:<P>I would state the object of this amendment, that the most important issues that would come before the Probate or County Court where issues are carried, would be issues of law.  For instance, some question of law might arise as to which party would be entitled to the administration of an estate.  That, by the wording of this article, is left to the county judge.  I wish to give the jurisdiction to the district judge.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I think the difficulty in the way of this course would be much greater than the difficulty which the gentleman apprehends.  If issues occur, they cannot be tried in the County Court, but must be sent to the District Court for decision.  Issues of importance are very seldom cast in the Probate Courts.  The party, if he is not satisfied with the decision of the Probate Court, has a right to appeal, and have his case brought up to the District Court.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Ord's amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 6th section, as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18, were then adopted as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, Article VI was then ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then took up Article VII, on the Militia; and the first section, as reported, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then adjourned.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In Convention.  Prayer by the Rev. Antonio Ramirez.  Journal of yesterday read, amended, and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT, from the Committee on Printing, made a report, which was read and laid on table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then resumed the consideration of Article VII on the Militia.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 2d section being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said he did not think the section read very smoothly.  One word was left out--the word "private."  He thought the whole section required amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT was of opinion that the first section covered the whole ground.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART moved to strike out the 2d section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK said that the section, as reported, makes it obligatory on the Legislature to provide for an <HI REND="italics">efficient</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD thought if any discipline at all was necessary, an efficient discipline was.  He would be glad to see the first stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER moved to strike out the words stating that the Legislature " <HI REND="italics">may</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the 2d section as reported, and it was stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT then offered the following as a substitute, which was rejected:</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  The Legislature shall encourage the organization of independent companies, and make suitable provision for the same.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 3 being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE moved to strike out "appointment by the chief of the staff."  Under the discretionary power provided under this first section, the Legislature may organize the whole militia into independent volunteer companies.  Was it to be supposed that the individuals composing that corps, would surrender the right to elect their own officers?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON and Mr. DIMMICK opposed the motion on the ground of the necessity of this provision.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I am very far from having made up my mind that it would not be better that this system of election of any troops, whether militia or regular, should be abolished entirely.  But there is a class of militia officers that must be appointed by a higher authority.  Staff officers must be selected by the chiefs of their staffs.  The service could not get along without it.  Inasmuch, therefore, as a certain class of officers must be appointed, and not elected by the men, I do not see any other way than by retaining the words "appointment by the chief of the staff," in this section.  If we were a Legislature forming a law declaring in what way the officers should be elected, it would be very easy for us to say what officers should be elected by the men.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  I am perfectly aware that the right is in the legislative body; but by this provision, the whole militia system would be nugatory.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I am decidedly opposed to anything like taking away from the chiefs of the staffs this power of appointment.  I should be glad to see a restriction that the Governor should appoint certain officers.  It is dangerous to take away from the militia the right to elect their own officers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCDOUGAL.  I am certainly in favor of giving the election of a certain portion of the officers--the company officers--to the people; but the appointment of higher officers of the service ought to be given to the Governor or to the head of the corps.  We have seen in the recent war with Mexico, to our great regret, where this system has been established--leaving the election of field officers to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I rise for information, and I am sure there is no member of this House needs it more than I do upon this subject.  The study of my life has been to preserve men's lives, and therefore it is that I want to understand more about this matter before I give my vote.  Is it proposed, by any alteration in this section, to take from the Legislature that power which it seems to me is here given them to provide how officers of the militia shall be elected; because if it is so, I am in favor of it.  There is certainly one proper way or another of electing these officers; and I think it is for us to provide that proper way.  I do not pretend to say what it is.  Nor is it a sufficient answer that the people can fix it through the Legislature.  We do not say that a Governor shall be elected as the people may prescribe.  We are here to fix great fundamental principles; we conceive one of these principles to be that he should be elected by the people.  Sometimes we have usurped the powers of the Legislature, and here, it seems to me, that we permit the Legislature to usurp our powers.  Now, sir, I do not know what a staff officer is.  I think it has been said upon this floor that the Governor ought to appoint officers.  Certainly that is not the case any where.  What, sir, make a colonel by any dictate of a Governor!  Such a power does not belong to the President of the United States.  And as to this staff officer, he is a staff officer made under the United States Government.  They have the largest kind of arrangements there, and one would suppose the best arrangements for purposes of this sort.  Under this provision your Legislature may prescribe to the Governor who appoints all officers of whatever grade.  It is evident to my mind that this is all wrong.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  The suggestions thrown out by my friend from San Joaquin (Mr. Vermeule) in regard to this matter are correct, and I think it absolutely necessary that we should fix positively what should be the appointing powers of the militia of this State.  But, sir, the amendment for striking out the word "appointed" will not meet it; and here the experience of New York foresaw this very matter.  If you leave the word as inserted here it will leave the Legislature the power to place the appointment of all the officers of the militia of the State in particular hands, or their election to some other hands, or divide that election and appointment as they see fit.  I think we ought to have something here which will positively point out the source from which these officers derive their authority, and the section, as contained in the Constitution of the State of New York, is, I think, the only one, and indicates the only manner in which this can possibly be remedied.  It is in the following words:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  Militia officers shall be chosen or appointed, as follows: captains, subalterns, and noncommissioned officers shall be chosen by the written votes of their respective companies; field officers of regiments and separate batallions, by the written votes of the commissioned officers of the respective regiments and separate battalions; brigadier-generals and brigade inspectors by the field officers of their respective brigades; major-generals, brigadier-generals, and commanding officers of the regiments or separate battalions shall appoint the staff officers to their respective divisions, brigades, regiments, or separate battalions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE then withdrew his original amendment, and offered the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  Staff officers shall be appointed, and all other commissioned officers shall be elected, in such manner as the Legislature shall, from time to time direct, and shall be commissioned by the Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE said: With regard to the future militia of the State of California, I think there will be, so far as the volunteer principle is concerned, very few volunteer infantry.  The greater portion will be militia of light-horse.  I have not the slightest doubt that the members of these corps will be jealous of their right to appoint these inferior officers, and these inferior of their right to appoint the higher officers.  I think the amendment which I have submitted will remove every objection.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I hope if the House pass any law upon this subject that they will adopt that of my colleague, (Mr. Shannon,) from the Constitution of New York.  I think it is certainly the best and the most complete--particularly as my great grandfather was born in New York.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I am opposed to adopting any of the amendments presented, and in favor of the original section as it stands.  I think the Legislature will be just as competent to regulate the election of militia officers as we are.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMUELE.  My own objection to this section, as reported, is that it gives to the Legislature the power to deprive the members of volunteer corps from electing their own officers.  Perhaps the Legislature may not exercise it, but they will have the power to do it.  They have the power to give that right to the members of the company, but they also have the power to deny it to them.  In regard to the election of officers in New York, I know it has been a subject of great complaint.  I know of more than one instance of officers being forced upon the militia who were entirely incompetent to perform the duties of their offices.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  I would say to the gentleman that he might give the election to the people at large, throughout the State.  I think myself that the proposition of the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Shannon) is better than that.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS.  I desire to ascertain how many amendments there are before the House.  I wish to move another, if in order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I wish to say a word which I think will be a reply to the objections to the section as it stands, that the Legislature may possibly take away from the militia the election even of their company officers.  We do not provide in the section against possibility, but probability.  I would submit to the Convention whether it is a power that would be at all likely to be exercised to that extent.  The people appoint the members of the Legislature; the very militiamen themselves.  The militia are the body of the citizens.  It is not reasonable to suppose that these members appointed by them will abuse their trust by taking away any power which should be given to them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BROWN moved the previous question; which was sustained.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment of Mr. Vermuele was then rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on Mr. Shannon's amendment, it was also rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section as reported was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The article on the militia was then engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, Article VIII, on State Debts, was taken up and passed, as reported by the Committee of the Whole, and ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. ELLIS, Article IX, on Education, was then taken up, and the first section was adopted as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then being on agreeing to the amendment of the Committee of the Whole, to the second section--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD said: I hope the House will not concur in that amendment of the Committee striking out the proviso.  I think it ought to be evident to every one that, after giving all the landed property derived from the Government of the United States for the purpose of education, and also any per centage upon the sales of all the public lands belonging to the United States in this State, besides every other property which the Legislature may from time to time grant, that we should not now tie ourselves up, and deprive ourselves of the power of making use of this overplus when the exigences of the State require it.  I think that if the revenue from this land is larger than is necessary at present for school purposes, it will be squandered, unless we make provision for its temporary application to the expenses of the State.  It is true we will have many children here; but if you make your fund unwieldy, you offer inducements to men to put their hands in it.  I trust the amendment of the Committee will not be adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I am in favor of striking out the proviso, and of leaving a most munificent fund for the purpose of education, and especially for one reason.  The very fact that California offers such a munificent fund for that purpose, will be an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I would go as far as any gentleman to provide for the most liberal means of education in California; but, sir, I cannot consent, looking to the situation of California now, and what it may be in time to come, to tie up all the resources of the State for one special purpose.  This country is peculiarly situated.  A long time must elapse before landed property can be brought into such a position as will subject it to a sufficient tax for the support of the State Government.  I wish to see other means besides loans provided for the support of this Government.  If that proviso is stricken out, I shall be in favor of striking out the words "together with all the rest of the unsold lands."  Considering the great extent of country over which the placers extend; the extraordinary manner in which nature has scattered her treasures over it; the roving character of the operations now carried on in these mines, I consider it utterly impracticable for a long time, if not impossible, to parcel out that mining country into lots of convenient size for mining operations.  It would take a long series of years, and the highest of surveyors, and an immense amount of capital, to carry out and maintain such regulations.  I have drawn up, sir, and intend to offer when permitted, a series of resolutions bringing that subject before Congress.  I believe that Congress, with great propriety, without interfering with any system for the collection of revenue for the support of the General Government, without infringing upon any constitutional provision, might very properly give to California that to which she is so justly entitled, and by that means not only show her generosity to the youngest State sprung into existence, but without detriment to the other States, or taking away from them any portion of the public revenue which could be properly divided among them.  I read by way of argument, the following proposition, which I shall offer at the proper time:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>1st.  That the Congress of the United States throw open for a given time the whole placer country to the thousands who are pouring in by every ocean port, as well as inland communication, requiring by proper enactments, and under regulations to be established by law, every gold seeker to take out a license or permit for a given and stipulated time, from offices to be established for that purpose at convenient places, and further requiring every such operative, if not a citizen of the United States, to take the oath of allegiance so long as be shall be a resident of California.  The fee or charge for such license or permit not to exceed five dollars per month, and the nett proceeds arising therefrom, to be paid into the Treasury of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2d.  That the Congress of the United States establish an essay office at the most suitable place, where all gold dust intended for exportation shall be assayed, made into ingots or bars, and stamped with its lay or rate of purity, on payment of a charge not to exceed one per cent.; the holder of any such ingot, however, to have the right to have the same coined free of further charge, on presentation at any mint of the United States.  The net proceeds or receipts of said office, to be paid into the Treasury of the State of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3d.  That the Congress of the United States prohibit by law the exportation of gold dust from California, under the penalty of forfeiture of one-third to the informer, and the remaining two-thirds to the State of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
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196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>I propose, if the proviso is stricken out of this article, to amend the section by striking out these words: all after the word "purposes" to the words "the rents," inclusive, and also the word "other" in the succeeding portion of the proviso.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I desire to offer an amendment.  To insert after the word "legislative," "by a vote of two-thirds," so that the fund shall never be diverted from school purposes, except by a two-thirds vote of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I entertain the same views upon this subject that the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Lippitt) does, as to the propriety of collecting together for the State of California a large fund for educational purposes; and I never expect to live to see the time when that fund will be too large.  As to the gentleman's proposition (Mr. Steuart's) in regard to the public lands, it is a matter well worthy of consideration.  I hope it may go before the Committee of the Whole, and there receive proper examination.  My colleague from Sacramento, (Mr. Sherwood,) frequently refers to what New York has done.  I hope he will not consider it an encroachment, if I refer him to what the State of Iowa has done.  She has nobly appropriated all this fund for the purpose of education; and if New York had a fund for education such as Iowa, I have no doubt she would as nobly appropriate for the same purpose.  I can see no way in which it can be appropriated more beneficially to California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I would say to the gentleman that New York has done what Iowa has done.  She stated in her Constitution that that fund should be inviolably appropriated to school purposes.  No Legislature can touch it in any manner whatever.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I think it proper to state why I shall vote for striking out the proviso.  I originally agreed to its introduction, but my colleague (Mr. Lippitt) gave very sufficient reasons why it should not be introduced.  I agree with him that nothing can add so much to the permanent settlement and prosperity of this country as the establishment of a munificent school fund; and this, I trust, will prove to be one of the most munificent school funds known to the world.  We have the privilege, whenever we become a State, of taking five hundred thousand acres of land out of any of the public domain within the State.  As a matter of course we will select the best from the gold mines.  The plan that has been proposed by my colleague, (Mr. Steuart,) requires very great consideration.  I shall not allude to it further than this.  If you take the five hundred thousand acres appropriated by Congress, it is an uncertain fund, which may fall upon bad land as well as good.  Some of them may be covered by private land claims.  Hence it is very important for us to have something over and above the school sections and the five per cent. that the gentleman alludes to.  If we do this, we shall have to agree not to tax the land sold for five years.  In a great many new States the 16th section has created a very small fund, but this plan will produce a splendid fund.  I believe the people would rather be taxed than have this fund infringed upon to support the government.  If we insert this, it will create a permanent population, and I hope the proviso will be stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I had intended to have called the attention of the gentleman particularly to the situation of California, and to the absolute necessity that will be imposed upon Congress to adopt some other system of surveying and locating public lands in California, than has hitherto been adopted in the Territories of the United States.  I think that every gentleman who has been through any portion of California, and who is at all acquainted with its topographical character, will concur in opinion with me that it would not only take a very long period of time for any number of surveyors to locate and mark the boundaries, as is done in the territories, by townships and sections.  In the territory of California there is scarcely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  I have taken a good deal of interest in this donation as connected with the subject of education.  Now, in regard to the proposed amendment, what is it you propose to do?  To give them, as the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin) observed, a very uncertain and unlimited fund.  The State of California will be sufficiently capable of sustaining her political institutions; and whenever you take away any portion of this school fund, or place it within the power of the Legislature, I would feel more secure if two-thirds of all the members were to appropriate it.  Will any gentleman pretend to say that there ever has been too large a fund collected in any State for the purpose of education.  I desire to record my vote against touching this fund for any other than its legitimate purpose.  When gentleman tell us we shall not be able to raise funds to support the civil organization of the government, it is assuming what I deem altogether improbable.  I hope, then, that every item mentioned in the proviso will be stricken out.  I shall not detain the House upon the subject.  I enter my protest against touching a single dollar of that fund.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL moved a call of the House, but after some conversation, he withdrew the motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I am as fully in favor as the gentleman from Sonoma, (Mr. Semple,) or any other gentleman, of a large school fund, and in favor of appropriating it exclusively to school purposes, except where the necessity of applying any surplus temporarily to the exigencies of the State is so obvious as to be demonstrated by a two-thirds vote of the Legislature.  It is under the supposition that this 500,000 acres, or a portion of it, may be located in the mining districts, and that from these lands, so located, a large revenue may be derived, which properly should go to defray the expenses of the government, that I think this proviso should stand.  It is proposed by some that the miner, who is guarantied in his rights by the State Government, should pay a poll tax.  That is uncertain.  We cannot tell what the Legislature may do; whether they may not impose a poll tax as the entire tax, or the rent of a portion of these lands, or they may impose a certain per centage on the amount of gold extracted.  It is a matter for future legislation.  But I say that if you do collect one or the other of these taxes from the profit which the miner derives from the mines, and then appropriate it to the support of schools, it is making an unequal tax.  You would make the whole burden of the expenses of the civil government fall upon the landholders, for you cannot impose a double tax on the people of the mining districts.  It is not just or equitable.  Our position is different from that of any other country.  Miners have a separate occupation; they will form two-thirds, perhaps, of the whole population.  It is not to be expected that they are to pay no part of the expenses of the government.  They require no capital.  A man with his own hands in the mines has a capital worth more to him than in the old States he would have with twenty-five thousand dollars capital.  You have given him a capital in the material which <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I think the question, without any reference to the mineral lands, comes down to this point.  Whether we shall allow our Legislature to interfere with the lands set apart for educational purposes.  In all the Constitutions, I find that all the States provide that these lands shall not be used for any other purpose.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>352</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  If I was sure the amendment was not likely to pass, I would not say another word; but I wish to show you that it is wholly inconsistent with the provision--as much so as the proviso itself.  In the first part of the section you say that the proceeds of all lands that may be granted by the United States to this State, for the support of schools, &amp;c., shall be inviolably appropriated to that object; and the proviso says that the Legislature may appropriate to other purposes, if the exigencies of the State require it, the revenue derived from these lands.  The amendment says that the rents and profits of all unsold lands may be appropriated to other purposes.  The original section says: "and also such per centage as may be granted by Congress on the sale of public lands in this State shall be and remain a perpetual fund, the interest of which, <HI REND="italics">together with all the rents of the unsold lands</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I am in favor of striking out the whole proviso.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  The matter under consideration is one so important that I scarely believe myself capable of giving any views that will enlighten members of this body.  The subject of education is one which has engrossed the minds of our own country and of the world for many years past.  When this matter was up in Committee of the Whole, I voted to strike out the proviso which was attached to the original report, and I am still in favor of keeping that proviso out, or any amendment to it.  I believe, as it is now reported by the Committee of the Whole, it is the best thing we can adopt.  I care not how great that fund may be, it is our duty to appropriate if for the support of common schools.  If we make a division of this splendid fun, we give the power to the Legislature to do just what they please with it; they may say that the people will not object to whatever they think proper to do.  In some States they have been so profligate that the people have raised a protest against their action.  The people, sir, are willing to be taxed for an economical support of government.  I do not wish any power of this kind to be given to the Legislature.  We can create no fund too large for the purpose of education.  I call upon my old bachelor friends to support this if they want wives, for it will introduce families into this country.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  I simply rise for the purpose of making a brief explanation in regard to my vote.  The great principle which this provision of your Constitution embodies, seems to be assented to by the great majority of this House; the great advantages, nay, the absolute necessity, of a well based system of school education.  It is admitted that such a system is the only platform upon which can be planted the great cause of progressive freedom.  There is no necessity for declaiming on this floor with regard to it; all must assent to it.  I believe the only difficulty in our way now is, whether the great landed interest of this State shall be devoted to the cause of general education, or whether a part thereof shall be devoted to the necessities of the State.  I shall give my vote against the proviso, and in favor of retaining this fund for the cause of education; but lest the majority of the House might decide otherwise, then, notwithstanding the objections made by the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) to the general application of the two-thirds rule, I certainly shall vote for the retention of that feature in the proviso; that the exigencies when it would be proper to divert a portion of this fund from the purposes of education, should not be decided by a mere log-rolling majority.  Such we know to be a frequent thing.  If the cause of education be so important; if we, who are all united as to the necessity of such a system here, agree unanimously that it is of incalculable importance, we should certainly put it out of the power of the Legislature to divert it from its legitimate object.  I am proud, sir, to be a member of this body when I see the general disposition to stamp upon the Constitution of California this feature which will make it a mark for the admiration of the civilized world, to provide the means of education for the present and for the generations yet to come.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART desired to amend his amendment by introducing the word "mineral" before the word "lands."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS hoped he would not be allowed to do so, as there would be another debate on this subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART said it was the first time such an act of courtesy had been refused in a parliamentary body.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was taken on granting permission to make the amendment, and it was decided in the affirmative.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The question was taken on Mr. Steuart's amendment, and it was rejected, by yeas 5, nays 31, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Gilbert, Hobson, Sherwood, Steuart, Wozencraft--5.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Covarrubias, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Gwin, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, Lippincott, McCarver, McDougal, Norton, Ord, Price, Pico, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft, Vermeule, Walker, President--31.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being next on the amendment of Mr. Sherwood, to insert "by a two-thirds vote"--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said: I regard this as one of the most arbitrary, despotic, and anti-republican clauses ever adopted by a free people; and I desire that we shall put down in black and white those who are in favor of such a rule which violates all the rights and principles of an American freeman.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment, and it was rejected, by yeas 10, nays 27, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Brown, Gilbert, Gwin, Halleck, Lippitt, Norton, Ord, Sherwood, Steuart--10.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Covarrubias, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hobson, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippincott, McCarver, McDougal, Price, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft, President--27.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on striking out the proviso, and it was decided in the affirmative, by yeas 26, nays 10, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Covarrubias, Gwin, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, Lippincott, McCarver, McDougal, Ord, Price, Reid, Sutter, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft, Vermeule, Walker, President--26.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Gilbert, Hobson, Norton, Pico, Sherwood, Wozencraft.--14.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 2d section, as amended by the Committee of the Whole, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House took a recess of one hour.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, HALF-PAST 3 O'CLOCK.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the consideration of Article IX, on Education, was resumed, and sections three and four adopted as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The article was then, on motion, ordered to be passed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, Article X, on Amendments to the Constitution, was then taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to amend the first section by striking out the words "two-thirds" and inserting "a majority."  For the reasons of this motion, he would refer members present to the action of the Baltimore Convention in 1844.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I think this is a very proper check against hasty action.  The two-thirds rule is very necessary on such a subject as this.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  There certainly can be no premature action.  If a majority of the Legislature propose any amendment to the Constitution, it has to be submitted to the people.  It is three months before the people.  The people come up to the polls after that consideration, and vote directly on the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I am opposed to striking out the words "two-thirds."  In amending the Constitution every step should be well guarded, and nothing should be done hastily, or under the fluctuating influences of political excitement.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I hope I will be allowed to say a few words.  I think there are sufficient guards upon the people in this section, without the adoption of the two-third rule.  An amendment is to be proposed and passed through two separate Legislatures, and must meet with the assent of a majority of both Houses; not of a quorum present, but of the members elected.  It must then be published three months next previous to the election of the next Legislature.  That Legislature must pass again upon this same proposition, and it must again receive the assent of two-thirds of the Legislature.  Now, sir, I do not think this proposition is democratic, I do not think it is republican.  I think the true democratic rule is that the majority shall rule.  In all States of the Union you will find no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>356</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY.  I hope the amendment will prevail, for if the majority can first create a Constitution, the same majority most certainly should have the right to change it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  That is just the difference between the Constitution, or fundamental law of the land, and an ordinary law of the Legislature.  Let the will of a majority of the people always make and unmake laws; they are changing from year to year; but do not let these changes--these transient changes, which are brought about by politicians for party purposes, party majorities in favor of a particular measure--affect your fundamental law.  It would greatly militate against the permanent prosperity of the people.  The laws of the State can be repealed at any time if they work badly; but if an alteration made in your Constitution is found to work badly, it will take years to correct it.  Whether it be democratic, or republican, or otherwise, I would not leave it to the mere transient majority of the people; I would not leave the future interest of the whole people dependent upon that majority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I hope this amendment will prevail.  I can see no reason why we should allow two-thirds of the Legislature to say whether the people should alter or amend their Constitution.  By the section as drawn up, we refer back a resolution which is passed by one Legislature, and after a publication of that resolution three months before the meeting of a new Legislature, we require a two-thirds vote to pass it, and after it is passed the Constitution is not even then amended, but the amendment is at last referred to the people.  This very clause is copied nearly verbatim from the proviso of the Constitution of New York, which requires only a majority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  It is copied verbatim from the Constitution of Michigan.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  But New York is as good authority as Michigan, or Virginia, or any other State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I should not say a word on this subject, but if I am compelled to vote I want to talk about it till I comprehend it.  If I understand the proposition it is to enable the majority of the people to alter the Constitution.  Yes, sir; I am now in earnest; it is to permit the majority of the people to make a Constitution.  Who is making this Constitution?  Two-thirds?  Who is going to tell the majority of the people that they shall not make a Constitution, when it is a majority here that is speaking?  Can it be done by any other than the majority of the people themselves?  Shall the majority making a Constitution say that another majority shall not make a Constitution?  The whole question is, who shall make Constitutions when Constitutions are to be made, a majority or a minority?  I think one of the greatest errors of the day is the popular one expressed by my friend from San Francisco (Mr. Lippitt) that Constitutions are not to be lightly altered.  Sir, the progress of improvement has altered every where, and in nothing more than political liberty; and nothing is more desirable than that the people should have the liberty to amend their written Constitution according to the progressive improvement under the science of political liberty.  I wish, sir, that more of these restraints were taken off; that the people may have the facility of putting it down in black and white, and making it a law of the land.  I put this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>357</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>What is there about this Constitution that does not pertain to the next one or any one.  I leave it to my friend (Mr. Lippitt) to explain away the doctrine which he maintains, but which I am sure he does not mean to support; and yet I will urge upon him that it comes to this, and to nothing else; that the whole question of remodeling your Constitution is the question of making a Constitution.  It is not different from the original making of a Constitution--exactly as we are doing now.  I shall vote in favor of the amendment.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  Suicidal as the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) thinks this course, I think we will adopt it.  I am as much in favor of referring all power to the people as any gentleman present, but this constant cry of the people too often assumes the aspect of demagogueism.  Let political excitement run wild here as it has in every State of the Union, then you will find the absolute necessity of the two-third rule.  It is of essential importance, that in amending the fundamental law of the land, men should return to their sober second thought--to that great balancing power by which questions so deeply concerning the interests of the whole people are decided.  It has always been so in matters of so much importance, involving the welfare and prosperity of the State.  And I think it is altogether unfounded to presume, after an expression of the will of the people, that a majority of two-thirds of both Houses of the Legislature will dare to say these amendments shall not be made.  There are times, sir, when political excitement makes it absolutely necessary that the people should be restrained, and for the purpose of having this regulating check upon political parties, I shall certainly vote for the two-thirds rule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I speak in answer to the first gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Lippitt.)  I want to know, Mr. President, what the Legislature is after the people have said that it shall amend or re-make the Constitution, but  a constant Convention.  This way of amending the Constitution, avoids the usual mode of calling a Convention, and directs the Legislature by the determination of the people to have the Constitution altered.  It becomes a Convention subject to the declared will of the people.  A Convention is an assemblage of persons chosen to alter the Constitution; and the vote of the people asks that the Legislature shall be that Convention.  The whole question then, comes to this: shall the Convention so formed, alter the Constitution by a vote of a majority or two-thirds?  Now, if that question were put in its bare and naked form, who is there upon this floor who would vote for the two-thirds rule?  If you provide, by the calling of this Convention to make a Constitution, who would propose that that Constitution should be made by a vote of two-thirds of the House only?  Who would vote for it?  And is not this Legislature a Convention to all intents and purposes?  Mr. President, I charge, then, this thing; that your Constitution does not provide for the calling of a Convention in accordance with the will of the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  The following section provides for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Very well.  I do not care what the next section provides.  This section provides that, under certain circumstances, the Legislature becomes a Convention; that is to say, it provides that the Constitution shall be passed upon by the members of the Legislature; and what reason is there for declaring that, in that Convention or Legislature, the Constituion shall not be altered except by a vote of two thirds, and in the next section, by a majority.  Do you provide in the next section that a vote of two-thirds shall make a Constitution?  The gentleman from San Francisco says if a majority of the people are in favor of it, they can always elect a Legislature to amend it.  One hundred thousand here are in favor of curtailing the power of the Legislature.  How are less than two-thirds of the people to instruct two-thirds of their representatives?  If the gentleman had argued thus: that whenever two-thirds of the people are in favor of a thing, it would be proper that they should be able to instruct two-thirds of the Legislature, I would grant it; but less than two-thirds cannot instruct two-thirds of the Legislature.  We have heard a great deal here about the necessity of restraining the will of the people during very exciting times.  Who is to restrain the people?  Angels from Heaven, coming down here free from all political excitement, or that body in which there is, of all others, the greatest political huckstering?  Does the gentleman from San Luis Obispo, (Mr. Tefft,) suppose that a man who comes from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>359</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I have arisen merely on account of a dread I had.  We all know the character of the representative from New York, (Mr. Sherwood,) and I feared my two friends, (Mr. Norton and Mr. Lippett,) had been advocating this so strenously that it might be in the Constitution of New York.  But it is not.  It has been stricken from the Constitution.  The old Constitution requires a two-third vote, but the new one only requires a majority.  Then comes Pennsylvania, then New Jersey, then Rhode Island, and half a dozen more, which do not require the two-third rule in any way.  Some of them providing amendments to be made to the Constitution; others providing for conventions to be called by a majority of the Legislature, and a majority of the people.  So much for New York.  I would ask, Mr. President, what is the principle upon which our government is established?  Is it not democratic that the majority shall rule; and what reason is there to put a restriction of this kind, denying the very first principle of our form of government?  But this has been discussed here fully; and I would merely wish to state one idea that has occurred to me while listening to the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Lippett,) and it is this: The fact that after giving the people the three months' notice in the first place, this amendment presented by a majority of the Legislature to the people, and then three months' notice given, and having this time to reflect upon it and make up their minds, and send back their instructions to the Legislature in favor of the amendments--that the same majority which elects them, and which approves of the amendments shall then cut itself off and defeat its own will.  I think it is a most extraordinary doctrine.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS.  In regard to this two-third vote which has been so highly deprecated here as being anti-republican, I beg leave to read what the Constitution of the United States says on the subject:</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. V.  The Congress, whenever two-thirds of both Houses shall deem it necessary, shall propose amendments to this Constitution, or, on the application of the Legislatures of two-thirds of the several States, shall call a convention for proposing amendments, which, in either case, shall be valid to all intents and purposes, as part of this Constitution, when ratified by the Legislatures of three-fourths of the several States, or by conventions in three-fourths thereof, as the one or the other mode of ratification may be proposed by the Congress; provided that no amendment which may be made prior to the year one thousand eight hundred and eight shall in any manner affect the first and fourth clauses in the ninth section of the first article; and that no State without its consent, shall be deprived of its equal suffrage in the Senate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It required a two third vote there; and I now move the previous question to see whether we can have a two-third vote here or not.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The previous question was ordered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then being on the amendment of Mr. Jones, it was rejected by yeas 16, nays 21, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Botts, Crosby, Dominguez, Dent, Hill, Jones, Larkin, McCarver, Ord, Price, Reid, Sutter, Shannon, Walker, Wozencraft, President--16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Carillo, Covarrubias, Dimmick, Ellis, Foster, Gilbert, Hanks, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Lippitt, Norton, Pico, Rodriguez, Snyder, Sansevaine, Steuart, Tefft--21.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first section, as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to strike out in the first line of the second section the words, "two-thirds," and to insert in lieu thereof the words, "a majority."  The motion was, by yeas and nays, decided in the negative as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Botts, Crosby, Dent, Jones, Larkin, Moore, McDougal, Ord, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Walker, Wozencraft, President.--16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Carrillo, Covarrubias, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hobson, Hollingsworth, Lippitt, McCarver, Norton, Price, Pico, Roderiguez, Stearns, Sansevaine, Steuart, Tefft--25.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART moved to amend the section by adding thereto the following proviso:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Provided</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I am as much in favor, sir, of the rights of the people as any man, but I think it is necessary, in order to show our love for the rights of the people, that we should endeavor to show it for the whole people; for the minority as well as the majority.  I think we should protect minorities against any factions majority got up for party purposes or political speculation.  Without such a clause as my friend from San Francisco (Mr. Ellis) read from the Constitution of the United States, where would be the government which is our boast at the present day?  Where, amid all the fluctuating influences of political parties, would be the rights of the minority of the people?  I wish the rights of the minority in California to be protected.  I would follow up the dictates of my own conscience even against friends and blood relations.  I contend for the right of the people--whenever it shall be necessary to exercise that right--to amend the Constitution; but for the minority as well as the majority.  Sir, when I look back to my own native State, it is not that I rejoice in her beautiful slopes and valleys, her waving fields and industrious population, but that in every period of our history they have stood foremost among the protectors of their country.  They, sir, have this provision in their Constitution.  When I go for the rights of the people I wish to go for the rights of the whole people, and in offering this proviso I claim that I offer nothing that is inconsistent with that position.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  The object of that amendment is in direct conflict with the vote which we have just given.  It is clearly out of order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR will give an opinion if called upon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I hope the Chair will give us his opinion on this subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR.  At the proper time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I shall vote for that proviso for the simple reason that it stultifies the former action of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I am opposed to any amendment giving to the people a legitimate way of effecting a revolution and overthrowing the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I believe it is a rule of law that a man shall not be allowed to stultify himself.  We have pointed out a way in which the people, without resort to revolution, can legally change their Constitution.  What does this propose?  It proposes to leave it open, in spite of all these restrictions; it says to the populace: You need not regard these constitutional provisions; call yourselves a manjority of the people; meet in Convention, and make your Constitution just as you please.  It gives the people the constitutional right to come together and make a revolution every day in the year.  If the people to-day get together in that way, without reference to the mode pointed out in the Constitution, and establish a Constitution, the people the next day, if the majority happens to alter its mind, get up another meeting and establish another Constitution.  In that way we may have three hundred and sixty-five Constitutions in one year.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I think if posterity is to be tied down by the action of a Convention of the present day, a revolution is a very good thing.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS.  I believe the Chair decides that the resolution is before the House.  Does any gentleman appeal from the decision of the Chair?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  Look at the proposition.  It is at direct issue with the last vote taken by the House.  What would be the predicament of the House if we should adopt both?  It would show a vacillation that would render us ridiculous wherever the Constitution is read.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I am in favor of a majority altering this Constitution at any time, but I consider that the proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco does no more than the section just passed.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  I have but one word to say on this subject.  I am willing, if this proviso is adopted, to sign the Constitution as the will of the majority of this House, but I shall take the stump against the Constitution.  I would prefer having it rejected by the people to having this provision incorporated in it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I thought if there ever had been a disposition manifested in favor of the rights of the people that it would be manifested on this occasion; and I was perfectly astonished at the opposition coming from the quarter that it does.  Had I been over-anxious to have this proposition carried, I might possibly have sought the counsel of my honorable friend, (Mr. Wozencraft,) seeing how perfect he is in the phraseology of his resolutions, and how lucky he is in having them carried; but I did not suppose, in offering this proposition to secure to the people their favorite right, that I offered any thing contrary to that right.  I might, if I had thought proper, have amplified upon this subject, but it has been my studious desire to deal as much as possible in abstract principle, and present my ideas as plainly as I could.  It was far from my desire to stultify this House or any member of it.  I think if gentlemen will calmly and deliberately examine the two they will find no inconsistency.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I believe the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Steurt) is perfectly honest in his intentions, and desires that the people shall possess all the power; but I call upon him to observe this: that the first section, as adopted, does provide unquestionably that a majority of the people shall alter the Constitution; but it provides, also, that that opinion shall not be expressed but at the will of the minority.  When the question is submitted to them undoubtedly the gentleman is right; the section provides that a majority shall settle it; but how can it be submitted to the people except by a minority vote.  They are prohibited by the minority from expressing any opinion about it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I merely wish to read the 2d section of the Bill of Rights.  I think it contains the substance of the proviso of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Steuart.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>All political power is inherent in the people.  Government is instituted for the protection, security, and benefit of the people; and they have the right at all times to alter or reform the same, whenever the public good may require it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Steuart's amendment, and it was decided in the negative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Crosby, Hoppe, Jones, Moore, McDougal, Ord, Price, Snyder, Sherwood, Steuart, Walker, Wozencraft, President--15.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Brown, Carrillo, Covarrubias, Dent, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hill, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Larkin, Lippitt, McCarver, Norton, Pico, Rodriguez, Sutter, Shannon, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft, Vermeule--28.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. McCARVER, the vote by which the 1st section of Article X was adopted, was reconsidered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to strike out of the section the words "two-thirds," and insert `a majority."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The previous question was moved and sustained; and the yeas and nays being ordered on agreeing to the amendment, it was decided in the affirmative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Crosby, Dent, Dimmick, Gwin, Hoppe, Jones, Larkin, Lippincott, Moore, McDougal, Price, Reid, Synder, Sherwood, Steuart, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft, President.--22.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Carrillo, Covarrubias, De La Guerra, Dominguez, Gilbert, Hobson, Halleck, Lippitt, McCarver, Norton, Pico, Rodriguez, Stearns, Sansevaine, Tefft--15.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 2d section was adopted as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then took a recess till half-past seven o'clock.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL moved that the Convention go into Committee of the Whole upon the Schedule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention refused the motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention took up the article entitled Miscellaneous Provisions, and proceeded to the consideration thereof.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 1st was read.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved to amend by a provision that the first session of the Legislature should be holden at Monterey.  He would inform the Convention that he was authorized to offer the use of the entire building in which the Convention was then holding its sessions, for the use of the Legislature as long as they might choose to occupy it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK stated that he was authorized to offer, on the part of the people of the Puebla de San Jose, a house and accommodations equally as good as that in Monterey.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS called for the reading of the offer of the Town Council of San Jose.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE read the offer of the donation of thirty-two acres of Washington Square, and also an obligation of the San Jose delegates, under a forfeiture of $50,000, to furnish suitable buildings.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS desired that the House should consider this proposed donation well.  It was a trammel upon the people from ever removing the capital if they so desired, without a heavy forfeiture.  The cost of the State buildings would not be less than $700,000 or $800,000, and if in five or six years it was thought expedient to remove the capital, the good substantial buildings would be forfeited to San Jose, and a very pretty speculation they would make out of it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE said that the town was willing to give a fee simple of the land to California, without any reservation whatever, and give any security necessary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK supported his colleague.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMUELE was fearful that they were going to enter into a sort of family war, a York and Lancaster affair--the people of San Jose vs. the people of Monterey.  With him the only question was that of convenience.  He thought the situation of San Jose was more central and more convenient, and that the climate was better.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES was in favor of San Jose.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER was opposed to it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK contended that the Town Council of San Jose had no right to make grants of land except to individuals, and then only in single lots.  If the State should accept the gift it would not be legal until confirmed by the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS desired to know which proposition was before the Convention--that of the Town Council or that of Messrs. Hoppe and Dimmick?  He did not doubt that those gentlemen were responsible men, but certainly their proposition was not before the Convention in a shape that could be acted upon.  The only proposition was that of the Town Council.  Let the matter rest upon its own merits.  Don't make the President of this Convention an auctioneer to knock down the capital, with his hammer, to the highest bidder.  If San Jose would give thirty-two acres of land, he was authorized to offer on the part of Monterey forty acres.  Who would bid fifty?</P>
196.sgm:<P>After some further discussion, the amendment of Mr. Halleck was decided in the negative as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs, Botts, Carrillo, Dent, De La Guerra, Foster, Hill, Halleck, Larkin, Lippitt, McCarver, Ord, Pedrorena, Rodriguez, Reid, Stearns, Tefft, President.--17.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Covarrubias, Crosby, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hoppe, Hobson, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippincott, Norton, Price, Pico, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Sansevaine, Steuart, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft.--27.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section was then adopted.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>The amendments of the Committee of the Whole to the second section (on duelling) were concurred in; and the question being on the adoption of the section, as amended--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to strike out the section; and the yeas and nays being ordered, the motion was decided in the negative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Botts, Crosby, Dent, Ellis, Hill, Hobson, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Jones, Price, Shannon, Stearns, Steuart, Vermeule, Walker, President.--18.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Carrillo, Covarrubias, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hoppe, Larkin, Lippitt, Lippincott, Norton, Ord, Pedrorena, Pico, Rodriguez, Snyder, Sherwood, Sansevaine, Tefft, Wozencraft.--23.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved a reconsideration of the vote just taken, which was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART submitted the following as a substitute for the section:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 2.  The Legislature shall, at as early a period as practicable, pass laws for the suppression and punishment of the practice of duelling within this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The previous question was moved thereon, and sustained; and the question being taken on the amendment, it was rejected, by yeas and nays, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Botts, Crosby, Dent, Ellis, Hill, Hobson, Hollingsworth, Jones, Moore, McDougal, Norton, Pedrorena, Price, Shannon, Stearns, Steuart, Vermeule, Walker, and President.--19.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Covarrubias, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hoppe, Hastings, Larkin, Lippitt, Ord, Pico, Rodriguez, Snyder, Sherwood, Sansevaine, Tefft, Wozencraft,--21.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the original section, as amended by the Committee of the Whole, it was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment of the Committee of the Whole to section 3d was concurred in, and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 4th and 5th were adopted, as reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. LIPPITT, section 6th, as reported by the Committee on the Constitution, was amended, by striking out all, from the commencement of the section to the word "purpose," inclusive; and by striking out the word "other," in the first line of the remaining portion.  Thus amended the section was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment of the Committee of the Whole to the 7th section was concurred in, and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to strike out of the 8th section the words "the political year shall begin on the first day of January," and to insert after "fiscal year" the words "shall commence."  The amendment was agreed to, and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 9th, 10th, 11th and 12th sections were adopted, as reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The consideration of the new section reported from the Committee of the Whole, to be inserted after the 12th and before the 13th, was, at the request of Mr. De La Guerra, postponed until to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 13th section was adopted, as reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, adjourned to 10 o'clock, to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCTOBER 5, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Prayer by Rev. Mr. Willey.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Journal of yesterday's proceedings read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS submitted the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The resolution was adopted.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BROWN submitted the following, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. WOZENCRAFT, the Report of the Committee on Printing, in reference to the printing of the Constitution, was taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT moved that the proposal of Edward C. Kemble, ordered to be filed with the report, be accepted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After debate, the report and accompanying papers were ordered to lie on the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The PRESIDENT asked for instructions from this Convention as to whether the per diem allowance of the Secretaries and Clerks should be paid from the commencement of the session, or from the days on which they were severally elected or appointed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Thereupon Mr. HALLECK submitted the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved to amend the resolution by striking out all after the word resolved, and inserting the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Norton's amendment was agreed to, and the resolution, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the consideration of the "Miscellaneous Provisions" of the Constitution were resumed; the question being on concurring in the additional section reported by the Committee of the Whole, to be inserted between the 12th and 13th sections reported by the Committee on the Constitution, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>All lands liable to taxation in this State, shall be taxed in proportion to their value; and this value shall be appraised by officers elected by the qualified electors of the district, county, or town in which the lands to be taxed are situated.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved, as a substitute for the proposed section, the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Taxation shall be equal and uniform throughout the State.  All property in this State shall be taxed in proportion to its value; to be ascertained as directed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved to amend the amendment of Mr. Gwin, by adding thereto the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>But assessors and collectors of town, county, and State taxes, shall be elected by the qualified electors of the district, county, or town in which the property taxed for State, county, or town purposes, is situated.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  There was a certain committee appointed by resolution of the House for the purpose of making a report upon the ways and means of defraying the expenses of the State Government, to be adopted by this Convention.  I do not know the exact bearing of the resolution, but I have the report of the Committee before me.  There is certainly nothing contained in the report which can properly come within the Constitution; and I wish to know, as we are now upon this question of taxation, in what position the report stands.  I think it was referred to the Committee of the Whole; but it certainly has never come either before the Committee or the House since that disposition was made of it.  The document is rather an important one, and as we are now on the subject of taxation, I think it proper that we should act upon it now, if any action is to be taken upon it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I believe the amendment proposed by the gentleman from San Joaquin, (Mr. Jones,) is the question before the House.  I would say with respect to it, that I prefer it by far to the provision passed by the Committee of the Whole, and I shall vote for it.  I prefer it also to the substitute of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin;) not that all of these propositions do not tend to the same object and produce precisely the same result, but I think the mode indicated in that amendment is the most judicious.  There is no danger in leaving this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>366</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO.  I desire to make a few observations in regard to what the gentleman has said.  He appears to be afraid that in some districts one or two large land owners may have the power of naming as assessors whatever persons they like; and that these being nominated by their influence would value the property as the owners would direct.  That difficulty could easily be removed by requiring the assessors to take an oath that they will do justice in the valuation of the property.  I am not acquainted with this means of appraising property for the purpose of taxation, for it has never been customary in California; but I understand that when a merchant is called upon, his oath is taken as to the value of his taxable property.  If a merchant's oath is taken, why cannot a land-owner's be taken?  I do not see why bad faith should be expected in one class of persons more than another.  I think the argument of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Lippitt,) has been sufficiently answered; and I shall vote for the amendment of the gentleman from San Joaquin, (Mr. Jones.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  It is with a great degree of diffidence that I rise to advocate this article.  I am in favor of the section as reported by the Committee of the Whole.  I believe it accomplishes all that is necessary.  I had much rather that this defence should fall to older and abler heads, and I trust that this provision may so far meet the approbation of such members, that they may take the burden of support from my hands.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>It has been said that the position occupied by California at this time is an anomalous one.  It is most truly so, and in more respects than one.  A very few years since, California contained a population sparse in the extreme; a large portion proprietors of immense landed property, and yet poor; many of them destitute; the commerce of the country limited; the country itself unsought and uncared for.  How strange the change, and how extraordinary in so short a space of time!  This is one of those great events of the nineteenth century, that goes to prove that time should not be measured by years, but by events.  The state of things existing here at present, is wholly unparalleled in the history of the world.  California is the great idea of the present age, and she promises every thing for the future.  Her position is strange, yet most promising.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Let us direct our attention for a moment, to the actual state of things in this country.  We see here a population ranging from 70,000 to 100,000 persons, of whom, not to exceed 15,000, are natives of the country.  The great majority are a mixed population, from every part of the world, possessing divers interests, and accustomed to various systems of government.  And yet, strange as it may seem, we see this immense number of persons from every nation and clime, unknown to each other, unacquainted with each other's habits and customs, living together in harmony and peace.  Notwithstanding the dreadful accounts with which the papers of the States have been filled for the past year of outrages and wrongs committed here--that murder was an amusement, and every species of crime a pastime--things as yet, almost entirely unknown to California; yet I say, we find this people uniting as in one family, all feeling that their interests are identical, and having for their only object, a desire to give to the State a Constitution and laws under which they may advance to that greatness which must follow in the natural course of events.  This people, without distinction of class, have met together; and as an expression of their desire, have sent to this Convention their delegates from the farthest parts of the country, to form and present to them the organic law of a new State.  Reasoning from experience, it is proper to assume that the people who create the State, are ready and willing to maintain and support it.  Then from the anomalous position of the country in this respect as well in all others, the question naturally follows, "How is a revenue sufficient to defray the necessary expenses of our State to be raised?"</P>
196.sgm:<P>In this connection I do not wish to be misunderstood.  It has been said that lines of distinction have been drawn upon this floor between the native Californians and Americans.  And it has also been said that I have drawn these lines.  I disclaim entirely any such intention.  I believe, and ever have believed, the interests of all actual residents here are identical--one and inseparable.  Would it not be very strange if I, an American born, with all the love of country, of family, and of name, implanted, I trust in the breast of every true American, should so far forget myself and my country, as to advocate greater freedom and greater rights for any other race of people than for my fellow-countrymen here?  I have never done this.  I have only said what I again repeat, that if from the circumstances the interest of any class of people here are to be protected at the expense of any other, common justice demands that those of the native Californians shall be protected.  The magnanimous spirit which abides in the breast of every true American will sustain me in this position.  Gentlemen may say, that I have no right to make a supposition of this sort.  I maintain that the history of the world fully bears me out in the assertion, that there is a possibility, nay a probability, that such a contingency may arise here.  Where, in any country, there are two races of men different by birth and education, it is impossible to avoid a clashing of interests; and in such a state of things the argument is not far-fetched to assert, that there is great danger that the interests of the minority will be overlooked, and merged in the interest of the majority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In view of this possibility, I again assert what I have before asserted on this floor, that any proposition that in itself, or in its consequences, cannot work injury <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>368</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>That the native population of the country are willing to submit cheerfully to any imposition of taxes, within the bounds of justice, necessary to the support of the government of the State, is fully proven from the fact they are the supporters of this article.  And I wish to be understood as believing that every class of inhabitants of California are equally willing to contribute to the support of the government which they themselves have formed.  And I question very much whether any gentleman on this floor will assert, that any portion of the people in California, wherever located, or whatever their interests, are not willing to assist in the support of the Government in whatever form the necessities of the State may call for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It is a principle of equity that all persons should be taxed who in any manner are benefitted by the government imposing such taxes.  "Consequently," says a very able writer, "those countries are best governed, in respect of taxation, where each class of inhabitants contributes proportionately to the benefit derived by it from the expenditure."  In order to a more full understanding of the matter it becomes necessary to advert to the system of taxation in general.  "It is the transfer of a portion of the national products from the hands of individuals to those of the government, for the purpose of meeting the public consumption or expenditure.  Whatever be the denomination it bears, whether tax, contribution, duty, excise, custom, aid, grant, or free gift, is virtually a burden imposed on individuals, either in a separate or corporate character, by the ruling power for the time being, for the purpose of supplying the consumption it may think proper to make at their expense; in short, an impost in the literal sense."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Men may talk about the right of taxation.  I say that it can only be considered as matter of expediency, and not of right; and nothing further is to be regarded than its nature, the source whence it derives its value, and its effects upon the interests of the country and individuals.  And this fact, I maintain, we are called upon to examine most carefully, viz: the effect which unlimited power of taxation in the Legislature <HI REND="italics">might</HI>
196.sgm:<P>It is true that taxation may be, and often is productive of good when the funds thus raised are properly applied.  Yet the act of levying taxation is always attended by abuses in the outset; and this very mischief, good governments have always endeavored to render as inconsiderable to the people as possible, by the practice of economy, and by levying, not <HI REND="italics">to the full extent of the people's ability</HI>
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196.sgm:<P>"The best scheme of finance is to spend as little as possible, and the best tax is always the lightest;" and, I may add, the most equally divided.  Admitting that taxation is the taking from individuals a part of their property for public purposes, it is impossible to deny that the best taxes, or, at least, those that are least objectionable, are:</P>
196.sgm:<P>1.  Such as are most moderate in their rates.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  Such as are attended with least trouble and expense.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  Such as press impartially on all classes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  Such as are favorable to the morality of the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This first position no one will deny, and I will only advert to it to show what would be the result if the Legislature were allowed to impose more than a certain amount of tax upon the proprietors of this country.  Under the existing state of things, should taxation be pushed to the extreme, it would certainly and most surely have this effect: it would impoverish the large proprietors without enriching the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>We can plainly see how this can be, if we bear in mind the simple fact that each tax-payer's consumption, whether productive or not, is always limited to the amount of his revenue.  No part of his revenue, therefore, can be taken from him without necessarily curtailing his consumption in the same degree.  And this is particularly the case with the landholders in California, who possess large amounts of taxable property and very small revenue; impose heavy taxes, and you ruin them beyond a doubt.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Let us look at this in another light.  I affirm that this article should be adopted in this country, of all others, not only as an act of justice to individuals, but as a matter of policy for the State.  Let this government lean to the side of the taxpayer, and I venture to say that the future will show that lenity on the part of the government in the imposition and collection of taxes on landed property in California will prove advantageous to the interests, and consequently to the prosperity of the country.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I learn from good authority that in thirteen years from 1778, during which time Spain adopted a somewhat more liberal system of government in regard to her American dependencies, that the increase of the revenue in Mexico alone amounted to no less than one hundred millions of dollars.  This is undoubtedly an extreme case, but the principle holds good everywhere; and the circumstances of this country most certainly demand a liberal system of taxation.  I do not wish to be understood, Mr. President, as advocating the imposition of light taxes upon the landholders, or making them pay less than their proper share of the burden; not at all; they are willing to pay all they can, and only ask to be protected from excessive taxation.  All citizens of California should enjoy the same exemption from onerous taxation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. President, with reference to the 2d head: Taxes which are attended with least trouble and expense in their collection.  This refers particularly to the article regulating the collection of taxes in each county for the payment of county officers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>We come now, sir, to the important reason why this article should be adopted, viz: that taxation, in order not to be too burdensome, should be such as to press impartially on all classes.  Admitting that taxation is a burden, it must necessarily weigh lightest on each individual when it bears upon all alike.  When it presses inequitably upon one individual or branch of the community, it is oppressive; it is a direct incumbrance; for it prevents the particular branch or individual from competing on equal terms with the rest.  Oppression to one branch of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>370</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Now, in view of these facts, what is the present situation of California, with regard to this most important question of taxation?  There are now, or will be in this country at the time of the ratification of this Constitution, one hundred thousand people living under and enjoying the benefits of the government, and each individual of that number, because he receives the protection of the government, of right is subject to be taxed.  Of this hundred thousand persons there may be fifteen thousand native Californians, and of the whole number, not exceeding five thousand are proprietors of landed property, and the great majority of the residue have neither real estate nor personal property that is taxable, and yet most of them with a competency, though it is not tangible.  No man can assert that this vast majority of the citizens of California, possessing the greatest amount of wealth, should not contribute to the support of the very government which is founded for their protection and benefit.  I do not for a moment, even in thought, do this class of citizens the injustice to believe that they are not only ready but willing to submit to any manner of taxation that is necessary, particularly when informed that the landed proprietors, who of necessity must be taxed heavily, are at the same time willing to submit to a similar tax for the support of government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>There is, Mr. President, probably $40,000,000 of taxable real estate, and as much more of moveable property in this country, at the present time; this, at the amount of taxation to which it is proposed to limit the Legislature, would yield a revenue of $200,000.  It is asked, how are we to raise revenue sufficient for the expenses of the State?  I answer, impose a capitation tax.  I know that this is the most unpopular word that I can use.  But  I believe that, when it is shown clearly and beyond a doubt that the necessities of the State and the rights of individuals require it, no man but a demagogue will raise his voice against it.  I am in favor of, and shall, if called upon, advocate the imposition here of a capitation tax for the very reason that the necessities of our country require it, and the rights and interests of very many of our citizens demand it.  I have sufficient confidence in the honesty of the great majority of the people of California to believe that such a tax, instead of being considered a burden, would be cheerfully responded to.  I believe that one man, with his census books, can go from San Diego to the most remote settlement on the Sacramento, and the Collector behind him, and that ninety-nine men of every hundred who place their names on the books will pay the tax demanded.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I was forcibly struck with the proposition, that the people taxed should elect the officers who taxed them.  Since then, I have had doubts, from the peculiar condition of things and the population of this country, as to the propriety of saying any thing about it, leaving it to the Legislature to say what way the value of property shall be ascertained and a tax imposed; but, upon further reflection, I have come to the conclusion that there is nothing in the principle involved in either the section originally proposed by the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck,) or in the amendment now proposed by the gentleman from San Joaquin, (Mr. Jones,) which should not be adopted in the Constitution.  I prefer, however, the amendment of the gentleman from San Joaquin,because, in the first place, it establishes a principle which should be fixed, that property should be assessed and taxed according to its value.  That is a fundamental principle.  In the next place, it provides that the officers shall be elected by the people of the town, county, or district taxed.  I am opposed at all times to the assessing of the value of property by men not acquainted with its value.  It is a principle well settled in the old States, that no officer should be sent two or three hundred miles into a district to which he is a stranger, to fix the value of property upon which taxes are to be levied.  It is not republican, and I am entirely opposed to it.  There are difficulties which have suggested themselves to some members, on account of the position of property in one portion of this future State, which, upon further <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>371</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I am somewhat like my friend from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood) in one thing.  When this clause was proposed in the Committee of the Whole I did not know that there was any material objection to it, and it was not until last evening that I began to consider it in its true and proper light.  When the gentleman from San Luis Obispo (Mr. Tefft) called the attention of the House to the particular state of things existing in California, where there are divers local interests, according to the different sections, then it was that I saw that this provision might do harm.  If the interests of all sections were alike, there would be no difficulty or danger in this proposition; but we are told, sir, from the best authority, that the gentlemen of the southern portion of this country do consider that their local interests upon the subject of taxation are directly opposite to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>372</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>With regard to a capitation tax, I, sir, who am not afraid to avow any thing on the face of the earth, who have been taught all my life just to think what I please and say what I think, I am in favor of a capitation tax.  Go tell that to the people.  I am in favor of taxing every man's head, but not laying the whole burthen of taxation there.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  That is not assumed here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Then I am with the gentleman.  This clause only provides how property shall be taxed; it leaves to the Legislature to fix a tax upon every man in the country as it chooses.  Then there is no argument between us at all on the subject of taxation; no difference of opinion.  Mr. President, I believe that, under the circumstances, I am through with what I have to say, although I am well aware that there is an infinite deal more to be said against the clause which has been reported by the Committee of the Whole, and which I hope will not be permitted to pass this House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SNYDER.  I hold in my hand the report of the Committee of Ways and Means.  At the time that report was introduced, I anticipated this discussion.  I foresaw what the result would be, and last night, when the gentleman from San Luis Obispo (Mr. Tefft) addressed the House, the position he took did not astonish me.  The report of the Committee is the basis of it; there is a line of distinction drawn in that report between the native and the American population of California.  It is to that portion of the report that speaks of the poverty of the people of the southern portion of California that I will call your attention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I have a great respect for the people of the south.  I have known many of them personally for several years, and would be sorry to see any thing placed upon the records of this Convention lowering them in the estimation of our friends at home.  As regards the poverty of these people, I will merely state that there are now some of their representatives in this House, and I have no doubt that they would treat with the greatest indignation any effort made by any person to look upon them as objects of charity.  I therefore think, Mr. President, that is in bad taste, if not altogether superfluous, to hold them up in that light.  First, I would ask you, sir, if any of the people from the south have ever been in the placers, and if they have ever obtained any of the gold that the report speaks of as having been obtained by the people of the upper districts?  Secondly, I would ask whether any of the people of the south have ever driven their horses and cattle into the upper districts to be sold?  I will answer the first question by asserting that I have seen many of the Southern inhabitants of this country in the mines, with numbers of their servants, obtaining immense quantities of gold.  There is another part of the report from which we are to infer that the discovery of the gold mines has inflicted the deepest injury on this portion of the Territory, where but two years since were concentrated its wealth and population.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now, sir, I would ask, from what the advantages of the people of the lower part of California were derived two years since, that made the wealth of that portion of the country so highly concentrated?  What had they to sell?  Hides and tallow, aguadiente and wine.  The hides and tallow constituted the bulk of their trade.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>375</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Is there any man here that will tell me that the people of the south will suffer from the discovery of gold in the upper portion of California?  Is it possible that, with the immense population that is flooding the country at all points of the compass, there are no beef eaters?  Is it possible that, with this rapid influx, there should be no demand for beef?  And, sir, if there is a demand for beef, is it possible that the people of the south cannot find a market for it?  The argument made use of in the report is utterly at variance with all systems of political economy that I have ever read.  There are no people in California richer than the cattle owners.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I am not in favor of heavy taxation, for I know that the Southern portion of the people of this country are large landholders, and I do not approve of any system of heavy taxation being imposed upon them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The report goes on to say:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"In the towns that have sprung up something might be collected; but, like all new communities, they make the most of their <HI REND="italics">limited capital</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. President, I would like to know where the gentlemen got their information in regard to the <HI REND="italics">limited capital</HI>
196.sgm: contained in the new towns that are springing up.  I know, sir, that public works have been performed by individuals at their own expense, and I have not seen a person in the town that I have come from who would object to pay a tax for either Municipal or State support, although their capital is, as the report says, <HI REND="italics">limited</HI>
196.sgm:<P>"In the opinion of the Committee the system of taxation might fail."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now, sir, the only failure that some of the gentlemen of the Committee apprehend appears to be in the south, amongst the <HI REND="italics">poor people</HI>
196.sgm:<P>"The undersigned, a member of this Committee, finds great difficulty in organizing the ways and means best adapted to the present peculiar and unprecedented circumstances in which the State of California is placed, but would recommend, as the more eligible plan, that the Legislature be empowered to raise the proper revenue for defraying the State expenses by levying an income and property tax, which shall not exceed one quarter per cent., as likewise a poll tax, which shall be left entirely to the Legislature to decide upon, both in relation to the amount as well as the manner of carrying out the same.<HSEP>Signed.<HSEP>A. STEARNES."</P>
196.sgm:<P>This is the opinion of one of those poor men from the south.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A gentleman from the south, a member, a few days ago remarked that they were not in want of money but in want of wit.  This is another voice from amongst the poor people from the south; and, as far as wit is concerned, I have no doubt he can be supplied with a certain kind now on hand in market, for sale cheap.</P>
196.sgm:<P>We have two reports on ways and means.  I do not understand parliamentary rules, and would like to know if there can be two minority reports, as I believe the report was made by a Committee of two, and they differ in opinion.  But I will vote for the proposition of the gentleman from Los Angelos, who seems to think that the poor people of the south are able to pay taxes.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART said that, coming from a State where the burden of taxation had been very great, he could speak feelingly on the subject.  It was a question of the most vital importance.  He had endeavored already briefly to show the condition of the landed interests in California, and it was his opinion that for some time to come there could not be a sufficient revenue obtained from taxes levied upon the lands held by individuals to support the State Government.  In view of the difficulty of obtaining means, he had submitted a plan for the consideration of the House, by which he thought additional revenue might be raised.  With regard to the propositions before the House, he thought it was usual to appoint assessors from among those best acquainted with the character and value of the lands.  He would vote for the section as reported by the Committee, because he believed it to be right and proper in itself.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I will not detain the House long, for I believe there is a general disposition to get through with this subject.  The proposition that I presented to the House this morning is copied from the Constitution of Texas, leaving out certain provisions which I do not think proper to introduce.  Texas is very similarly situated to this country.  There are there many landholders who have large estates which are not productive.  I do not wish to do injustice to any portion of the people of this country; and this desire to do justice to all parts led me to examine for precedents where there were large landholders.  Hence, I offered the proposition--not precisely as it is in the Constitution of Texas, but all I thought was necessary to cover the case.  I want it distinctly understood, in advance, that the main argument urged here on the subject of assessors--that they should be elected in the county where the lands are situated--the argument brought forward that, by implication, my proposition contemplates that these elections shall be held in any other part of the State, is without foundation.  I have never known that practice in any State of the Union.  I want the assessors to live in the county where the property is.  I am in favor of that; but I want the Legislature to have the power to form a system of taxation.  I say that taxation should be equal and uniform throughout the State.  "All property in this State shall be taxed in proportion to its value, to be ascertained as directed by law."  Then, if gentlemen wish to be more specific on this subject, I am perfectly willing that the assessors shall be residents of the county or district in which the lands are situated.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In regard to the comments on the report of the Committee of Ways and Means, I shall only say a word or two.  I do not look upon it that any argument has been brought against it.  These paper missiles thrown upon the House may be laid aside to be used elsewhere.  I have seen such things before, and I am not at all afraid of their effects.  That the price of cattle has risen, I do not doubt; but so has every thing else, and the relative value is the same.  We are assured by the southern people themselves, that the products of the farms in the southern part of the State have been diminished in value, because of the great difficulty of procuring labor.  I know the people of California will sustain their Government by any tax put upon them.  I am in favor of establishing a State Government, and asking as a matter of right that the expenses of this Government shall be paid by the Government of the United States until we are prepared to pay it ourselves; and if we do not get it from that source, I believe the people will sustain an equitable taxation, whatever it may be.  They are prepared to go through with what they have started, and that is, to establish a government here.  My only opposition to incorporating any specific plan of taxation in the Constitution is, that it may give rise to some inequality in its operation, owing to the different interests in the different parts of the country.  For this reason, I prefer leaving the subject to the Legislature, with the general provision that taxation shall be equal and uniform, and property taxed according to its value--principles which nobody will deny.  I have not the least apprehension that the property of landholders will be unfairly assessed.  As members of this Convention, forming a fundamental law, we should be cautios how we introduce <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>377</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I offered an amendment to the original section as it was reported from the Committee of the Whole, to strike out what I considered a legislative provision, and I did it, sir, upon this principle; that the provision was restrictive in itself, and was a right that belonged peculiarly to the Legislature, and one which it would seem like aggression on our part to interfere with.  I want to send this Constitution to the people with no insulting or aggressive provision, such as, in my opinion, is done by the section as it originally stood.  I do not wish to see the landed proprietors of this country disproportionately taxed.  I believe that by putting this provision in the Constitution it will be attended by results that all would deprecate.  It might operate very injuriously upon the landholders of the south.  I appreciate their position, sir, and I should be willing to put any guard or protection around them that is consistent with our duties here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on Mr. Gwin's amendment, as amended by Mr. Jones, it was adopted; and the report of the Committee of the Whole, as amended, was then concurred in.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention took a recess till half-past three.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The consideration of the "Miscellaneous Provisions" of the Constitution was resumed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendments of the Committee of the Whole to the 14th section were concurred in, and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. STEUART, the additional section reported by the Committee of the Whole, to follow the 14th section, was amended, by inserting at the close thereof the words, "except for eleemosynary purposes;" and thus amended the amendment of the Committee of the Whole was concurred in; and the section adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No perpetuities shall be allowed, except for eleemosynary purposes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 16th was adopted as reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, the 17th section, as amended by the Committee of the Whole, was stricken out, and the following inserted in lieu thereof:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 17.  Absence from this State, on business of the State or of the United States, shall not affect the question of residence of any person.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 18th was adopted as reported by the Committee on the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The additional section, reported as section 19th by the Committee of the Whole, was taken up, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>All laws, decrees, regulations, and provisions, emanating from any of the three supreme powers of this State, which from their nature require publication, shall be published in English and Spanish.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON moved to amend by striking out the word "supreme," and inserting in lieu thereof the word "several."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to amend the amendment of Mr. Norton, so as to strike out of the section the words, "emanating from any of the three supreme powers of the State," which Mr. Norton accepted as a modification of his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment, as amended, was agreed to; and, thus amended, the amendment of the Committee of the Whole was concurred in, and the section adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD moved an additional section, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall have power to extend this Constitution, and the jurisdiction of this State, over any territory acquired by compact with any State, or with the United States, the same being done with the consent of the United States.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I have no objection to that, but I do not see the necessity of it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  It is hardly probable that the Congress of the United States would consent to a provision of that kind.  We are assuming enormous powers when we adopt such a provision as that.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I will support the amendment.  It is gravely agitated in Congress the propriety of annexing the Canadas and Cuba.  It may be a very important provision to us.  Probably the extent of California will be such as to call upon us in a short time to take under our protecting wing the Sandwich Islands.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER.  I expect to be a citizen of Oregon, and, if I were a citizen, I should object to the Legislature of your State fixing a Constitution upon me.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  Notwithstanding the protest of my colleague, I am disposed to favor the section.  It may soon become necessary to annex the Sandwich Islands or Oregon.  We will find it very difficult to make room for the immense population pouring in here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I would not say a word but for the fear that this clause might possibly creep into the Constitution.  What is that you propose to do?  After fixing the right of suffrage, excluding negroes and the descendants of negroes, you introduce a clause by which you may extend this Constitution to the Sandwich Islands, and make citizens of the Kanakas.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  We are getting to be an almighty people here.  Who knows but we may have a resolution presented to annex China?  If the Congress of the United States and California will assent to it, the Chinese may enjoy the benefit of the wisdom of this Convention in having our Constitution extended over them.  As a citizen of California and of the United States, I protest against such a measure.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  If we should chance at any time to annex a portion of the territory south of us by consent of the people, I do not see why we should deny ourselves that right with the consent of Congress, to extend our Constitution over them.  Being citizens of the western coast, it becomes us, if possible, to extend our power.  As my friend from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin) said the other day, I hope we will have six or more States upon this coast; I hope, if I live forty years, to see the whole coast populated, and a vast empire on it, so that our power on the east and west will be the greatest in the world.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD.  I do not think the meaning of this additional section is distinctly understood.  Suppose it were found necessary or convenient to California that Oregon should dispose of a part of her territory to California by donation, finding that she could not govern it conveniently, and California was willing to accept it; it would be necessary before we could extend our laws over that territory to have the power in our Constitution.  The Legislature could not extend our laws over that newly acquired territory, however small it might be.  It would be necessary, without this provision, to call a Convention.  It is for the purpose of anticipating any contingency of that kind that this section is offered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  I shall oppose the adoption of this provision.  I think it is useless.  If we should get a portion of Oregon, it becomes a part of California.  The present Constitution would extend over it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD.  It cannot extend beyond the boundary which we fix in the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I think there is some doubt whether this Constitution could be extended beyond the boundaries therein established.  I can conceive the probability of such an instance as that mentioned by the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Ord.)  I do not think the Legislature would have power to extend the jurisdiction of the State beyond what we have now marked in this Constitution.  I would also remind gentlemen that, according to a provision already adopted, there is no way of calling a Convention of the people, so as to give that power to the Legislature, under two years; it will be two years before that constitutional power could be given; and if the case alluded to should arise, we can conceive very <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>379</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS.  I merely rise to announce to the House that the previous question is around again.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I wish to refer to this fact:  that the only instance on record in which the set limits of a State were altered was that of Missouri.  The Constitution of Missouri made no provision for that purpose.  A simple act of Congress, with the assent of the Legislature, admitted an additional portion of territory into the State of Missouri.  Now, if Oregon should be a State, and one of the parties should consent to make this donation, I have no doubt that the action of the two Legislatures and of Congress would be sufficient to accomplish the purpose.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I am astonished, sir, to hear gentlemen talk about givin away human beings and selling human beings, without consulting them.  Suppose Oregon, says the gentleman, should give away thirty thousand of her inhabitants to California; the Legislature would extend our laws over them.  Do you mean to say, sir, that our Legislature shall assume this control over them, without consulting their wishes?  I deny any such doctrine.  The only way to accomplish the object, in such an event as that referred to, is to call a Convention to make a Constitution.  Let it be the work of the whole population of California.  I have no doubt that, when this Convention lays down the boundaries of this State, it is utterly impossible for the Legislature to alter a constitutional provision, the boundary being one.  How can it be that, whilst the Constitution is there telling them what the boundary of this State is, the Legislature can violate that Constitution which every member must be sworn to support?  You propose to leave to the Legislature the extension or contraction of this boundary question; that the Legislature shall make the boundary of this State precisely what they please; and without the consent of those persons that are so donated that you extend and force over them your laws and your government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I call the attention of the House to the 10th section of the 1st article of the Constitution of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS.  I move the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The yeas and nays being ordered, the result was as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Carrillo, Covarrubias, Crosby, Ellis, Gwin, Hoppe, Hobson, Hollingsworth, Lippitt, Ord, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Sutter, Stearns, Steuart, Wozencraft--17.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Dimmick, Dominguez, Gilbert, Hanks, Hill, Hastings, McCarver, McDougal, Norton, Pedrorena, Shannon, Vallejo--14.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT moved a reconsideration of the vote just taken; and the article and amendment was ordered to lie on the table for further consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Lippitt in the chair, on so much of the report of the Committee on the Constitution as relates to the preamble.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The majority report being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>We, the people of California, grateful to Almighty God for our freedom, in order to secure its blessings, do establish this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The minority report was called up by Mr. GWIN, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>We, the people of the Territory of California, by our representatives in Convention assembled, at Monterey, on the first day of September, A. D. 1849, and of the Independence of the United States the seventy-third, having the right of admission into the Union as one of the United States of America, consistent with the Federal Constitution, (and by the Treaty of Peace between the United States and Mexico, ratified on the 30th day of May, A. D. 1848,) in order to secure to ourselves and our posterity the enjoyment of all the rights of life, liberty, and the free pursuit of happiness, do mutually agree with each other to form ourselves into a free and independent State, by the name and style of the "State of California," and do ordain and establish the following Constitution for the government thereof.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  All I have to say in favor of the minority report is, that it is the same precisely as the preambles of the Constitutions of Arkansas, Louisiana, and Florida, territories which were acquired under nearly the same circumstances as California, by treaty or purchase.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I have but a single word to say in behalf of the report of the majority.  It was desired by nearly all the members of the Committee, that we should adopt some preamble that would be short and expressive, and at the same time contain every thing that would be absolutely necessary.  I do not think myself that it is necessary in a preamble to refer to the treaty of peace between the United States and Mexico.  It should not be in the Constitution any more than any other part of the history of the State of California.  Neither do I think we should put in anything in regard to the protection of life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness--a long rigmarole which everybody knows.  They are contained in our declaration of rights.  For these reasons the majority of the Committee agreed upon the report which has been presented here; which I believe expresses all that need be said in a preamble.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  The gentleman's opinion may pass for what its weight may be.  Three States have adopted the plan which I have presented in becoming members of the Union.  The main point with the gentleman is, that the preamble which he presents is from the Constitution of New York.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  And a very good one it is.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  We are told that the preamble of the majority is from the Constitution of New York.  In my opinion it is the most butt-ended one that could be found.  She commenced under the new Constitution as a State; we commence as a Territory, and we have no right to assume that we are a State until we are formed as such.  I think both propositions are objectionable; and I offer the following as a substitute:</P>
196.sgm:<P>We, the representatives of the people of the Territory of California, in Convention assembled, at Monterey, on Saturday, the first day of September, A. D. 1849, and of the Independence of the United States the seventy-third, in order to secure to ourselves and our posterity the enjoyments of civil, religious, and political liberty, form a more perfect government, establish justice, ensure domestic tranquility, provide for the common defence, and promote the general welfare, do mutually agree to form ourselves into a free and independent State, by the style and title of the "State of California," and do ordain and establish this Constitution for its government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I cannot see the necessity of a peamble at all.  I think it is quite enough to say "the Constitution of the State of California."  Neither can I see the necessity of inserting in an instrument of this kind a prayer to Almighty God.  I shall vote for any preamble that comes the nearest to being no preamble at all.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I must protest against the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Shannon,) calling this a butt-ended proposition.  He does not show much reverence for the State from which he came.  I have seen nothing from any of the States that exceeds this in beauty and simplicity.  The other gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Hastings,) does not seem to think it necessary to be grateful to Almighty God.  I hope some of the members of this House perceive that necessity.  I think it is proper, doing so solemn an act, that we should make a due reference to the Supreme Being.  This preamble I consider as appropriate as any that we could adopt.  The gentleman (Mr. Shannon) says we have no right to call ourselves the people of the State of California.  The argument will not stand.  This Constitution is nothing until ratified by the people; but from the moment it is ratified we are the State of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I hope this House has originality enough about it to form a preamble of its own, without referring to New York, or any other State.  I desire to see in this Constitution a few lines at least of our own manufacture.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  The preamble of the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) suits me better than any I have seen, because it is the shortest.  There is no necessity for a long preamble; neither is it necessary that we should go to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>381</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee then rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It appearing that a quorum was not present, on motion, the House adjourned till to-morrow at 10 o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCTOBER 6, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In Convention.  Prayer by Padre Ramirez.  Journal of yesterday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the House resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Gilbert in the chair, on so much of the report of the Committee on the Constitution, as relates to the Schedule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 1 being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 1.  All rights, prosecutions, claims, and contracts, as well of individuals as of bodies corporate, and all laws is force at the time of the adoption of this Constitution, and not inconsistent therewith, until altered or repealed by the Legislature, shall continue as if the same had not been adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved the transposition of the third and first sections.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to strike out the first section.  He could see no necessity for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK thought there was a good deal of necessity for it.  It was to provide that the present officers of the Government, prefects, alcaldes and others, should perform the duties of their offices until their places were taken, under the new Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER did not think we should make laws with any reference whatever to the laws of Mexico.  This was a Constitution for our own State.  He was opposed to legalising the acts of any officers under the Mexican law.  This Convention was not called upon to say whether there any such officers in existence.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK said it was not to meddle with the existing form of government that this section was proposed.  When this Constitution was adopted by the people, it would be the supreme law of the land.  But under it, as it stands, the present officers of the Government have no power to act.  Consequently, until these officers were susperseded, there would be no government at all, without such a provision.  This only recognizes these officers until the Legislature shall meet and provide for the emergency.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said that the first section was copied from the second section of the Schedule of the Constitution of Louisiana.  Section 3d was copied with very slight alteration from the 4th section of the same schedule, (142 and 144, Constitution of La.)  Both of these sections correspond very closely with the sections on the same subject in the first Constitution of Louisiana when she was in nearly the same situation with respect to former laws as California now is.  It was a matter of great importance that they should be adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said there was a marked difference between our Constitution and that of Louisiana.  Louisiana was an organized Territory, and under territorial laws from 1803 to 1805.  It was therefore necessary that the authority recognized by the Government of the United States should continue in existence until the State Government went into operation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I have no objection to this section myself, except that it lays down just this proposition: two and two are four.  It asserts a doctrine, sir, which I have never yet seen the man to controvert--that the municipal laws continue in existence until they are abolished by the competent authority.  All rights, prosecutions, claims, and contracts, as well of individuals as of bodies corporate, and all laws in force at the time of the adoption of this Constitution that it does not repeal, are not repealed.  Who, in the name of common sense, doubts that?  If <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>382</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>381</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I think the gentleman from Monterey is entirely mistaken in one respect.  There are some rights under the present laws that this Constitution takes away--those of individuals.  The right of suffrage is one.  It is proper that they should know it.  This Constitution declares who shall vote in California.  There were other individuals who could vote under the municipal law; there may be municipal laws that are in conflict with the Constitution.  No possible harm can result from such a provision.  It makes no declaration what the law is.  It is designed to tell those who have lived under the existing municipal laws, of what rights they are deprived, and what privileges are conferred upon them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  If the object of the clause be what the gentleman from San Francisco says, to tell the inhabitants of this country that this Contitution is the law of the land from the time of its adoption, and that those who are excluded from voting are excluded from voting, I think I could form a section that would answer quite as well.  Why, sir, the people know all this.  It is not necessary to tell them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I would ask the gentleman (Mr. Botts) to reflect and see if, in the recent history of California, he cannot pick out a spot where this principle has been doubted, and even denied.  It may not have been so in Monterey.  But, sir, I myself, even with my very limited knowledge of the history of this country, can very well see the importance of asserting this great principle in the Constitution which we have adopted.  I have heard it doubted; I have heard it denied; and there is more than one gentleman in this House who has heard it doubted and denied, and perhaps the gentleman himself, (Mr. Botts,) if he reflects, will see the necessity of it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I cannot perceive that there is any principle contained in this section at all.  It is a mere declaration that this Constitution goes into effect after its ratification by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  There is a very important principle contained in it; that the municipal laws heretofore in force in this country, are in force until they are properly repealed.  Perhaps the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Price) has come from where the principle has been denied.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  If this section is to carry with it the interpretation which has been given to it by gentlemen who have addressed the House, that all laws not inconsistent with this Constitution shall continue in force if not repealed, then, sir, I think it comes in conflict with another section following soon after, which makes it depend upon the happening of another contingency--a contingency that may never occur.  In the 7th section you make it the duty of the present Executive of this State, immediately after ascertaining that this Constitution has been so ratified, to make proclamation of that fact, and thenceforth this Constitution shall be ordained and established as the Constitution of California.  Now, suppose the present Executive of this State does not choose to make this proclamation, what is going to be the result?  I want information as to the effect.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  If it conflicts the Constitution, it will not be enforced, as a matter of course.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on striking out the 1st section, and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Shannon's motion to transpose the 1st and 3d sections, was also decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section, as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 2 was adopted as reported, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 2 The Legislature shall provide for the removal of all causes which may be pending when this Constitution goes into effect, to courts created by the same.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>383</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>382</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Section 3 being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 3.  In order that no inconvenience may result to the public service from the taking effect of this Constitution, no office shall be superceded thereby; but the laws relative to the duties of the officers to be appointed under this Constitution, shall remain in full force.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I think I see the difficulty under which the gentleman labors, but if he looks over the section it will not prove liable to the objection which he names.  We neither affirm nor deny the existence of any officers; the section says nothing about the legality of the exercise of these offices.  Public custom has permitted them to exercise these duties, and the section merely provides that they shall continue to exercise them as before, until the laws are established.  I do not think it would be proper in the Constitution either to affirm or interdict the discharge of these duties; but we say that no officer shall be superseded by the going into effect of this Constitution until the Legislature shall have passed laws and elected, or provided for the election, of officers to supersede those that may exist, if any do exist.  I think the gentleman should vote for it, and that the objections which he makes to the exercise of the duties by certain officers under the Mexican law would be very well addressed to the Legislature, and would excite that body to speedy action.  If $100 is offered to a judge as a bribe, the sooner he is out of office the better.  The argument could very appropriately be addressed to the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  Either one of three things must exist: either there are no officers and none will be susperseded, or there are certain offices which do legally exist, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>384</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>383</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:and certain others which do not legally exist, and a part will be superseded and a part will not be superseded; or they all legally exist, and none will be superseded.  The article expresses nothing in regard to the legality of the offices.  If an office is an office at all by the decision of the Supreme Court it certainly will not be superseded.  But if the gentleman (Mr. Botts) will look to the law of nations he will see that this has always been the case.  Such was the case in Louisiana; such when France conquered Italy; and such has been the case in all conquered countries; that there are certain offices which, from the necessity of the case, do exist until other offices are established to supersede them.  It is necessary that there should be some administration of law--some order and government.  This usage is established by the law of nations.  Now I apprehend that the decision of the Supreme Court of the United States does not extend to all the offices of this territory.  There are certain offices which must be retained until other offices are created in their place.  They have nothing to do, <HI REND="italics">per se</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I am willing to admit that the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) understands his own position, but I hope he will admit that he is entirely wrong.  The officers alluded to here are officers that may be created under municipal law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I admit it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  Then it alludes to some officers whose election is authorized by law.  But the gentlemen who sustain this question are more out of the way than the gentleman from Monterey.  It seems to me that they do not understand what the purport of this section is.  It declares, that "in order that no inconvenience may result to the public service from the taking effect of this Constitution, <HI REND="italics">no office shall be superseded thereby</HI>
196.sgm:<P>It expressly states that no office shall be superseded thereby.  At the same time, in their argument, they tell you that these offices shall be superseded.  The section does not say so; perhaps there is a mistake in the copy.  But, Mr. Chairman, here I think is where the difficulty arises; the section adds: "but the laws relative to the duties of the several officers shall remain in full force until the entering into office of the new officer"--the new officer to be appointed under this Constitution.  But is it at all said, either here or in the first part of the section, that any officers shall be superseded.  We are superseding officers now of Prefect, Sub-Prefect and Alcalde, yet we declare positively that no officers shall be superseded, but the laws shall remain in full force regulating the duties of these officers.  Now either the section is wrong or the gentlemen are wrong.  I shall vote against it as it stands.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I agree entirely with the views expressed by my friend from Monterey (Mr. Botts) upon this occasion, as well as upon a former occasion.  I shall not attempt to add anything to an argument which has been so ably and fully presented as this.  I merely rise to offer an amendment, without which I cannot vote for that section.  I move to substitute for the word "office" the word "officer," and to insert after the word "shall" the following, "officer appointed by the existing government," &amp;c.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Perhaps I was too broad in the statement I made a little while ago that no offices were in force in California.  I yield entirely to the statement made by the gentleman from San Joaquim, (Mr. Jones,) because I think it is undeniable that there are some offices which the people have created by election.  I never hesitate to admit an error when I discover it; but most unquestionably the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Hastings) is right in the reading of this clause; and it is very plain to see how this error has crept into the Convention.  It came from the Committee.  Do you not see, sir, what the Committee has done?  Have they ever presented you with an original idea since they have been acting here?  They admit it themselves; they have gone to other Constitutions and presented them to you, without any regard at all to California, and the peculiar circumstances under which California exists.  What have they done?  In their haste they have grabbed up a provision out of a Constitution, where, no doubt, the offices that were brought into existence under the new Constitution were exactly the same that existed under the old, and therefore that Constitution very wisely inserted this provision, that no inconvenience might result from the change of government.  They were offices that were not inimical to the people, and to which the people did not object.  Has not the gentleman from Sacramento shown you that offices must be superseded thereby--are bound to be superseded thereby?  The very offices created by the people themselves it is intended shall be superseded by the Constitution.  If the gentleman wishes to effect what the Committee thought they had effected, he must alter this clause so as to read that they shall not be superseded thereby, until the laws of this Constitution shall go into operation.  In one part of the sentence they say no office shall be superseded; in another part they tell us about new officers entering upon their duties.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I think the gentleman is entirely mistaken.  The section is clear enough.  It simply says that upon the going into operation of this Constitution no office is superseded, nor the duties of this office, until the new officers are installed into office under this Constitution.  These officers remain until they are superseded.  I would leave the question as to the legality of these offices entirely open, to be decided by those who have a right to decide it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I rise merely to call attention to this fact.  It was said that this section was taken from some Constitution that did not supersede any office.  I have looked over the Constitution from which it is taken, and I find that it supersedes a good many offices.  It entirely changes the organization of the courts, and puts out of office innumerable judges.  Now it would be rather strange if these officers continue yet in Louisiana, notwithstanding this clause, under the new Constitution.  I agree perfectly with the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Hastings,) in regard to the inconsistency which he points out in this section.  I think myself that it requires amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I think this difficulty can very easily be removed, and I shall move an amendment to the amendment of the gentleman from San Francisco, as follows:  to strike out the word "but" after the word "thereby," and insert the word "nor;" strike out the words "several offices shall remain in full force" and insert the words "same be changed."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK proposed to amend Mr. Shannon's amendment, so as to strike out all after the word "thereby," and insert "nor the laws relative to the duties of the several officers be changed, until the entering into office of the new officers to be appointed under this Constitution;" which Mr. Shannon accepted as a modification of his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN offered the following, which Mr. Halleck said was precisely the same as his:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Strike out the words "but the laws relative to the duties of the officers to be," and insert in lieu thereof the words, "nor the laws relative to the duties of the several officers be changed until the entering into office of the new officers to be."</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON then withdrew his amendment, as amended, and the question being on Mr. Gwin's amendment it was agreed to; and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 4th of the report being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 4.  The provisions of this Constitution concerning the inability of persons to hold certain offices therein mentioned, shall not be held to apply to officers chosen by the people at the first election, or by the Legislature at its first session.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said: There are certain things provided with respect to the inability of certain persons, which I think require amendment.  For instance, no person holding an office under the Government of the United States, shall be eligible to office under this Government.  Is it intended that the effect of this section shall be, that officers who hold these offices may also hold office under the election held at the first election for officers of this State Government.  I think, sir, although that might suit me, it would not suit other gentlemen in this House. I think, for instance, that there is the office of Governor, a very snug little place, and there is the offices of member of Congress and Senator, and there are State officers, judges of the Supreme Court, Attorney General, &amp;c.  I think we said a little while ago that no person holding the office of naval storekeeper should be eligible to these offices.  I feel personally interested in that matter, and I want to know whether the naval storekeeper can be jedge of the Supreme Court or Attorney General.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I move to strike out the words "inability of," and insert the words "term of residence necessary to enable."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I certainly, when this question was before the Committee, never saw any other bearing to it than this: that it was to enable every person who was an elector under this Constitution, to be a candidate for the Legislature, and that members of the Legislature should be eligible to offices under the first Legislature that they are afterwards excluded from by this Constitution.  The reason that influenced my mind was, that the members elected to the first Legislature might be the best qualified to fill offices that were to be provided by the Legislature.  In the Constitution of Louisiana which has recently gone into operation, there is this provision, Article 146 of the Schedule:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The provisions of Article 28, concerning the inability of members of the Legislature to hold certain offices therein mentioned, shall not be held to apply to the members of the first Legislature elected under this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This 28th article of the Constitution of Louisiana, excluded members of the Legislature from holding certain offices, and all the important offices of the State were to be filled.  All the important offices of California are to be filled by the Legislature; Judges of the Supreme Court, Attorney General, Surveyor General, Treasurer, Secretary of State, &amp;c.  It was intended that the members of the first Legislature should not be excluded from holding these offices.  There are certain qualifications as to residence; and it was intended that it should not apply in the first election; that any man who could vote at the first election, could be a candidate for the Senate and House of Representatives.  That was the bearing of the section in my mind when it was before the Committee.  If the gentleman (Mr. Botts) offers any amendment providing for what he deems the difficulty, I am willing to vote for it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was taken on laying the section on the table for future consideration, and decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES inquired in what section of the Constitution the provision in relation to the inability of members of the Legislature was contained.  He thought by comparing that and the section under consideration the House might be able to arrive at some satisfactory result.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 20, of the Legislative Department was then read, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 20.  No Senator, or member of Assembly, shall, during the term for which he shall have been elected, be appointed to any civil office of profit, under this State, which shall have been created, or the emoluments of which shall have been increased, during such term, except such office as may be filled by elections by the people.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK explained the object of the section under consideration, (sec. 4.)  It was intended to obviate questions in regard to the eligibility of existing officers of the country.  He thought it should be so amended as to include all.  A judge could not be elected to the Legislature if the amendment of the member from San Joaquin prevailed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS would simply remind the gentleman that although there might be some difficulty about excluding so good a man as a judge from the Legislature, that evil was more than counterbalanced by admitting the navy agent to hold office under this Constitution, which he would be if the clause was adopted as it stood.  He thouht, however, that it was best to exclude both judge and navy agent.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I am aware that in our vicinity here, and perhaps throughout the whole House, there is a great disinclination to make any invasion upon the report of the Committee; therefore, being afraid that perhaps this may be voted down, I will say a word.  Most certainly every member of the House will see that the section as it now stands would not at all accomplish the object that the Committee had in view, and that the Committee committed a great oversight.  "The provisions of this Constitution concerning the inability of persons to hold certain offices therein mentioned, shall not be held to apply to officers chosen by the people at the first election, or by the Legislature at its first session."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now, the laws in this Constitution relative to the inability of persons to hold office are not to apply at the first election.  It is provided in this Constitution, that any person guilty of bribery, or a man who fights a duel, is thereby rendered incompetent to hold any office of trust or honor.  But he may receive a bribe, or fight a duel, with impunity, previous to the first election.  This section gives him that privilege.  If he has been convicted of any infamous crime it amounts to the same thing.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I second the amendment of the gentleman from San Joaquin, (Mr. JONES,) which I think covers the whole ground, with the further amendment--"or the office."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I really think this is a very important matter.  I do not see that either of the amendments covers the whole ground.  I move that the section be laid by for a little while in order that it may be properly considered and acted upon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. JONES'S amendment, and it was adopted, and the 4th section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 5 was then adopted, as reported, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 5.  Every citizen of California, declared a legal voter by this Constitution, and every citizen of the United States, a resident of this State on the day of election, shall be entitled to vote at the first general election under the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 6, as reported by the Committee, was then taken up as follows, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC 6.  This Constitution shall be submitted to the people for their ratification or rejection, at the general election to be held on Tuesday, the sixth day of November next.  The Executive of the existing government of California shall issue a proclamation to the Prefects of the several districts, or, in case of vacancy, to the Sub-Prefects, requiring them to cause such election to be held on the day aforesaid, in their respective districts.  The election shall be conducted in the manner which was prescribed for the election of the delegates to this Convention, except that the Prefects or Sub-Prefects ordering such election in each district, shall have power to designate any additional number of places for opening the polls, and that in every place of holding the election a regular poll list shall be kept by the judges and inspectors of elections.  It shall be the duty of these judges and inspectors of elections, on the days aforesaid, to receive the votes of the voters qualified to vote at such election.  Each voter shall express his opinion by depositing in the ballot-box a ticket whereon shall be written "For the Constitution," or "Against the Constitution," or some such words as will distinctly convey the intention of the voter.  These judges and inspectors shall also receive the votes for the several officers to be voted for at said election, as herein provided.  At the close of the election the judges and inspectors shall carefully count each ballot, and forthwith make duplicate returns thereof to the Prefect (or Sub-Prefect, as the case may be) of their respective districts, and said Prefect or Sub-Prefect shall transmit one of the same by the most safe and rapid <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>388</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I think this section has been taken again at random from some Constitution where the state of things is altogether different from that which exists in California.  To say that the Executive of the existing government shall issue a proclamation, may be a very proper way for the people of Louisiana or New York to talk to their Governor, whom they make, and who is under their control, and it would be a very proper way for us to talk to our Governor if he was under our control; but I do not feel authorized here to give any directions to the Executive of this Territory, nor do I think such an order would come with much propriety from this body.  The Executive of the existing government of California has proclaimed to the people of California that he is instructed to prevent the existence of a government here under the circumstances that we propose to have this government.  Such a proclamation is issued from him--I do not know how much, as an individual, he is with us in this matter, but he tells us, that as an officer of the Government, the action of Congress is necessary to render this a government.  There is a great want of delicacy in asking that gentlemen under these circumstances to take any hand at all in this matter; but, sir, I think it is an unheard of impropriety to <HI REND="italics">command</HI>
196.sgm: him to do it.  I therefore, at least, propose to amend the words of the section by saying that the Executive of the existing government of California "shall be <HI REND="italics">requested</HI>
196.sgm: to issue a proclamation."  Unless I have evidence on this floor that he is willing to issue such a proclamation, I will not even request him to do it.  But if he is willing, there is no man in the land of whom I would sooner ask a favor than of that gentleman, for it is certainly a favor.  You have no right to make such an application to an individual in this land, not known to this Constitution; you have not a Governor at all under this Constitution.  If he is a Governor, he is a Governor by other authority than that created by you.  I move, therefore, to amend by saying "the existing Governor <HI REND="italics">shall be requested</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I think the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey is a very proper one; but whether you say shall do it, or shall be requested, I can assure him that the gentleman to whom he refers, will do it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I think it very important that we should leave nothing to contingencies here.  I have heard General Riley say in private conversation, that he will issue such a proclamation; but I think there should be no doubt on the subject.  By some contingency that we know not of, he might refuse to do it, and this is what I think should be provided against.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  Suppose the Executive should decline to issue this proclamation, or another Executive takes the place of this one, and he is not willing to acknowledge our right to make this order.  These are contingencies that we must provide for.  We have no certainty that in November the same Executive will be here, or that the feelings of the present Executive will be the same.  Now, to <HI REND="italics">request</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  If such casualties should occur, of course the election would nevertheless be held, because we say expressly such an election shall be held on the 7th of November.  It would be precisely the same case of interregnum that is always provided for.  The prefects would go on as if there was a Governor.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I move to insert the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That the President of the Convention shall issue a proclamation in the event of the Governo refusing to do it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I would rather not anticipate such an event.  I therefore prefer not accepting the amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  If the election should take place on the 7th day of November, it would not give time to print the Constitution and send it down to Los Angeles and San Diego.  Even if they had time at Los Angeles to consider the effect of this Constitution, here is another difficulty.  Upon the 7th day of December, if the returns are not received sooner, the Secretary must count them, and upon the 15th day of December, the Legislature must hold its session.  That will give only seven days for the members from Los Angeles to arrive at the seat of Government; and if it be necessary for the Secretary to issue certificates of election to the persons elected, he will have no time.  In the districts of San Joaquin and Sacramento where the difference between the precincts is great, and the means of communication limited, it would be very difficult for a member to know whether he was elected or not, and perhaps some intimation from the Secretary might be necessary.  At all events, the members from Los Angeles have only seven days to come to the place of the Legislature.  I think they ought to have at least two weeks.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  I think if the gentleman will look at that section he will see that the difficulty is provided for in requiring the duplicate returns of the election to be returned to the Prefect, so that the candidate elected can ascertain as to his election from the Prefect.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  That avoids the difficulty.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I rise simply to suggest a modification of the words which I originally moved.  I think it better than the original.  Strike out the words "shall issue a proclamation to," and insert "is hereby requested to issue a proclamation to the people of California, directing," and further to amend, by striking out the words "to" and "requiring."</P>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>389</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  I think the time is too short from the 7th to the 27th of November.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  By an oversight of the Committee the 7th was fixed upon.  It should be the 6th of November.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the amendment of Mr. Botts, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I would now merely suggest to the House the difficulty which will necessarily attend this first date.  In the first place, we cannot adjourn before the 10th; then it will take at least four days for this Constitution to be drawn up and the official copies made and sent to San Francisco.  If it is to go to San Francisco to be printed, it will take eight days to get it printed, bound, and ready to be sent to the several districts; and it will take ten days to go from San Francisco to Los Angeles, and two or three days more to San Diego.  That will bring it to the 3d day of November at Los Angeles, and the 5th of November at San Diego.  Thus you cannot have it voted upon by the people on the 6th day of November, without even allowing for accidents.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  If we adjourn here on the 9th of this month; say it takes three days to get it to San Francisco, that is the 12th; eight days to print it would be the 20th; ten days to send it to Los Angeles would be the 1st of November; that would leave six days there and four days at San Diego.  But the members of this Convention who go down, will circulate the substance of this Constitution; they will take copies down with them, and submit them to the people in advance.  Besides, the rainy season is coming on, and the longer you put off this election, the less voters you will get.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  All I ask for the people of San Diego is, that they may have a chance of reading this Constitution before they vote upon it.  If we adjourn upon the 9th, this Constitution has to be made up and sent to San Francisco.  Taking into consideration the length of time that it will require to print and distribute it, I consider the time allowed altogether too short.  If there were express horses on the road, it might do; but there are none.  I think the shortest time that you can possibly make your Constitution reach San Diego, would be about the day of the election.  There would not one in twenty have a chance of reading it.  If the House order copies to be written and furnished to the District of San Diego, by the delegates when they leave here, I have no objection.  I see the necessity of having this election take place as soon as possible, and I am not opposed to the 6th of November on any other ground that the impracticability of having it at so early a period.  I would be very glad if it could be held on that day.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I agree with the gentleman that these copies can and ought to be made out.  I understand that the mail rider who was to have started yesterday morning is still here; and I think the Governor can keep him until these copies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>391</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>390</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  The members here themselves can take copies down to their respective districts.  I have before me a perfect copy of the constitution, and I intend to take it home.  Nearly every delegate has an entire copy lying on his table.  He will have this ready to take with him as he starts.  This is a matter of calculation, and I am well convinced that the constitution can be placed before the people of San Diego, even the printed copies, on or before the 1st day of November.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I am in hopes the earliest day may be fixed for holding the election.  I see no reason why the constitution cannot be sufficiently circulated in the most remote districts in proper time.  The steamer of the 1st of November, will be at San Diego on the 4th or 5th, and there will be sailing vessels that will start before, and run down in a very short time.  At this season of the year, a vessel will arrive there in four or five days.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  All I ask is, that the constitution may be laid before the people of San Diego in time for them to read it, and make up their minds how they shall vote.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO.  In my opinion, the date fixed upon for the election is far too early.  Even supposing you could finish your business by the 10th, it would be necessary to make out a revised and complete copy, have it translated, and revise the translation.  It must be put in such language as will be fit to send to the press.  The Interpreter has not as yet had any portion of the engrossed copies presented to him to make a clear and correct translation from.  It will have to be revised by some of the Spanish members themselves; they wish to see that the language is correct.  I do not see how it is practicable to have this prepared and sent down to the southern districts by that date.  I think the earliest date should be fixed at the 20th instead of the 7th of November.  It is a great evil that we should be delayed a single day; but I consider it absolutely necessary that the people should have a few days to examine the constitution submitted to them, before they determine upon it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  After hearing what has been said on this subject, I have changed my opinion very much about it.  I am inclined to think I shall go for the latest day.  We do, in this proposition of the 6th of November, hurry this thing in a most extraordinary manner.  The people ought to have time not only to read, but to understand, to consider--yes, sir, and to discuss the provisions of this constitution.  That is infinitely more important than an early day.  The people of San Jose and Monterey want all and more than the time that is proposed under this section, to consider what their representatives have been doing here.  It has taken us thirty days to consider this, and we tell the people of San Diego they must consider it in two days or one day--probably in thirty minutes.  This is the previous question, sir; and the previous question brought to bear upon the people with a vengeance.  It will not do.  As to the consideration that has been urged here of sending down written copies, I do not think that subject has been properly considered.  These manuscript copies must be certified copies; and the copies that gentlemen take from their tables are not the correct copies necessarily of this constitution.  It is not a garbled constitution that ought to go to the people.  You must send down certified copies.  Remember, you have given an order for the printing of this Constitution, and probably your printed copies may cost you sixty cents a copy.  What will your manuscript copies cost you?  Sixty dollars, sir!  I guarantee that you may write dollars for cents.  To thrust this constitution down the throats of the people in this manner, whether they will or no, is not the way to receive their unanimous vote.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEARNS.  I shall offer an amendment: to insert in place of Tuesday, the 7th, the 4th Tuesday of November.  It would be impossible for the constitution to be circulated before the 7th.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>392</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>391</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I think the time between the adjournment of the Convention and the holding of the election, and between the day of the election and the day of canvassing the votes, is in rather bad proportion.  We might very well extend the first time by limiting the latter.  We might have the canvassing day on the 7th of December, and give the time thus gained to the time previous to the election; take a week from that, and add a week to the other.  I do not think we will gain any thing by attempting to force this election at so early a day as the 7th of November.  We ought to allow the people time to reflect and consider upon the constitution which we submit to them.  While the time proposed by the gentleman from Los Angeles (Mr. Stearns) is too long, I think this is too short.  I think it is of more importance that the Constitution should be well considered here, and receive the deliberate sanction of the people, than any of those considerations urged in reference to sending our representatives to Congress.  I move to insert the 2d Tuesday of November.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I believe the first question to be decided is whether we shall have this election on the 1st Tuesday in November.  If the House determine to hold it on that day all the other motions fail.  If it is stricken out, it will be the sense of the Convention that we should have a later day.  In order to have a direct vote, I move to strike out that date, and leave the blank to be filled up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I rise to appeal to the gentlemen from Sacramento, who are familiar with the difficulties of communicating information through that region, whether these difficulties do not exist.  I really and honestly believe that a vast number of persons who are coming in by that route, and hundreds of citizens of California here, do not know we are holding this Convention.  It was not until the members had left Sacramento City that I was informed of it, even seven miles off.  I know of hundreds who did not hear even that such a thing was proposed.  It is utterly impossible--I do not care how many expresses you send--to disseminate this information throughout that region in time to hold the election at the time proposed.  I hope, therefore, that we shall have a longer period.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  So far as the time of holding the election is concerned, we are proceeding rather too fast in fixing that time.  We may sit twenty days longer in this Convention.  In reference to the express, I desire to state for the information of the House, that I was in Los Angeles, and the average time of the express was twenty days--sometimes thirty days.  I hope the House will not force upon the lower districts this constitution, without giving the people time to consider it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  If this time is extended from the 6th to the 13th of November, I have no objection to its being so extended, but I certainly cannot vote to go beyond that date.  I desire, with all other gentlemen, that sufficient time shall be given for the full consideration of this constitution.  As to the adjournment of this Convention, I shall be for fixing, if possible, the very earliest day, in order to drive us to an adjournment.  I cannot consent to sit here much longer than one or two days next week.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEARNS.  I withdraw my amendment in order to let the gentleman (Mr. Gwin) move to strike out the 6th.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I move to strike out the 6th of November.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK.  I am in favor of having this left blank for the present, because it is uncertain how long a time will be spent in Convention, and if you fix the time now, it may be that that time may elapse before we get through with our business here.  I understand that certain legal gentlemen are writing out speeches in regard to the decision of the Supreme Court of the United States, and if we are to wait until they are prepared and delivered, I presume a month will be spent here before this Constitutian is completed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Gwin's motion to strike out the date in the section, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEARNS then renewed his motion to insert the 4th Tuesday in November.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE.  If it is in order, I should like to move an amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>393</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>392</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that it was not in order, because there were two amendments pending.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE.  If the amendments now pending are rejected, I shall move to insert the 20th of November.  The members of this Convention have all admitted, that by the 5th day of November, the constitution can be sent to the farthest extremity of California.  In that event, the people of the different districts would have fifteen days for reading, discussing, and digesting the articles therein proposed.  I am in favor of having this election as soon as possible, but I am not willing to vote for a day that will compel a large portion of the people to take up the constitution and read it, and immediately vote upon it.  No man can get the full sense of a constitution by a mere reading of it.  The people should have an opportunity of assembling together, comparing their views, and discussing the subject fully.  I believe fifteen days is the least time within which they can carefully read, digest, and come to a deliberate judgment upon the provisions of this constitution, and I would therefore move to insert the 20th of November.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I would suggest that the other blanks be filled with the words "December the 20th and December the 25th," thus giving ample time to the Legislature to elect Senators and Representatives to start in the steamer of the 1st of January.  If you defer the election to the 13th of November, of course the Senators and Representatives cannot start before the first of January.  This will give them ample time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I shall vote for the second Tuesday in November.  I think that will give us plenty of time, even including the long speeches on constitutional questions with which we are threatened.  I was in favor of the 7th of November when reported by the Committee, because I then anticipated that the Convention would adjourn in time for that date; but as such is not likely to be the case, I think the second Tuesday will be the proper date to insert.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After further discussion, Mr. Stearns withdrew his motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL then offered the following resolution, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, leave of absence was granted to Mr. Sansevaine, in consequence of sickness in his family.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House took a recess till half-past 3 o'clock, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 3 1/2 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN submitted the following resolution, which was adopted after a short debate, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:, That this Convention will adjourn <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCDOUGAL moved a suspension of the rules, which being agreed to, he submitted the following resolution, which was adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The House then, on motion of Mr. GWIN, resolved into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Gilbert in the chair, on so much of the report of the Committee on the Constitution as relates to the "Schedule."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 6 of the report of the Committee being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved to amend by adding at the end thereof the words: "And the Executive will also, immediately after ascertaining that the Constitution has been ratified by the people, make proclamation of the fact; and thenceforth this Constitution shall be ordained and established as the Constitution of California;" which was agreed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the dates in the section were all stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. WOZENCRAFT, the words "or printed" were inserted after the words "written;" and thus amended, the section was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>394</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>393</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Section 7 then being under consideration, as follows, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 7.  If this Constitution shall be ratified by the people of California, the Executive of the existing government shall immediately after the same shall be ascertained in the manner herein directed, cause a fair copy thereof to be forwarded to the President of the United States, with the respectful request of the people of California that it may be laid before the Congress of the United States.  And the Executive will also immediately after ascertaining that this Constitution has been so ratified, make proclamation of that fact; and thenceforth this Constitution shall be ordained and established as the Constitution of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  Inasmuch as the latter clause of this section has been placed in the 6th section, I move the following substitute:</P>
196.sgm:<P>If this Constitution shall be ratified by the people of California, the representatives to Congress, elected as before provided for, shall immediately proceed to Washington, and laying a fair copy thereof before the Congress of the United States, request in the name of the people of California, the admission of the new State of California into the American Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I offer this, because the House has decided, by unanimous vote, that immediately upon the ratification of this constitution by the people, we will establish the State government; and when that is done, we are one of the sovereign States of this Confederacy, and as such we are entitled to our Senators and Representatives in Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. COVARRUBIAS.  I am opposed to this amendment.  It may be liable to great disadvantages.  In case these representatives should not reach Washington the Constitution would not be presented at all.  It is far safer to desire the present Executive of California to forward it.  Then it would be sure to arrive.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  The article, as reported by the Committee, shows the way pursued by other new States.  It strikes me as a more legitimate way than that proposed by the gentleman from San Francisco, to bring it before the two Houses of Congress through the President of the United States.  The Senators and Representatives going from here can carry certified copies with them.  They are not received and recognized until after the constitution has been approved, and the State is admitted as a member of the Union.  The article reported by the Committee takes the most appropriate course.  It certainly will be more advantageous to the constitution to be laid before Congress through the President of the United States, than to have it go in by the back door, by Senators and Representatives who have not been, and will not be received by Congress until it is acted upon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  Our situation, sir, is entirely different from that of any other State ever admitted into the Union.  In the first instance we have had no territorial government; no delegates in Congress to represent our interests.  Every other State admitted into the Union had its territorial representatives, and until they were admitted the government went on as before.  In our case, it is altogether different.  We have determined by the unanimous vote of this body, that as soon as our constitution is ratified by the people this government shall go into operation.  We elect our Governor, and all the subordinate officers of the State; we are a State to all intents and purposes.  Being a State, we send our Senators and Representatives to the Congress of the United States, not as a State going out of a territorial into a State government, but as a State that has sprung full grown into existence; and when we officially notify the Congress of the United States that we are a State, we do it through our duly elected Representatives, who appear there to demand admission into the Union.  If the official notification of our formation of a State government, and going into existence as a State, is sent there by our Representatives, they make it at the bar of the House, and present this Constitution, and the Congress of the United States say then, that inasmuch as the people of California have formed a State Constitution which is republican in its character, therefore, according to the provisions of the Federal Constitution, we recognize them as a part of this Confederacy.  Nothing else is to be done.  We are then either a State, or our Representatives come back.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  In reply to these remarks, it is only necessary to repeat what has come from the same source before--that we cannot bully the Congress of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>395</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>394</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  Who ever used the word bully?  Is it not the privilege of an American citizen to petition Congress in person as well as in writing?  And are not these gentlemen the Representatives of one of the sovereign States of this Confederacy, presenting its claims for admission in a respectful form to that body?  Is that bullying?  Sir, was it ever known or declared before, that when an American citizen petitions Congress, or when one of the States of this Confederacy respectfully, through their Representatives, present their petition to be admitted into the Union, that it is bullying?  These Representatives claim the privilege of representing on the floor of Congress why they should be received, if it is controverted at all.  My own impression is that they might be received instantaneously.  If not, they have the privilege of appearing there and urging the reasons why they should be received.  But if it is sent through the President of the United States, the Representatives of the State have to stand outside, and wait until Congress decides the question whether the State is to come in at all.  We assume the responsibility of establishing a State government at once, and as such we present our claims through our Representatives, under the most imposing aspect.  We send our Constitution there, and lay it before that body; and we announce the fact, that having established a republican form of government, we ask admission as one of the States of the Confederacy.  That, in my view, is the most imposing and respectful mode of doing it.</P>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>395</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I see no impropriety in the present Executive giving notice of the adoption of this Constitution, and transmitting a copy to the President of the United States; but I think it also proper that the Representatives of this State, whoever may be elected, should also carry on copies.  I think, then, the proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin) is correct, if it be offered as an addition to the section.  I am not certain, however, that it is best to put it in the hands of the Executive of this Territory, who holds his appointment under the General Government, and not under the State government.  I think if these members are admitted on the floor of Congress, they will be admitted without any constitutional privileges.  In the case of Michigan, the members had to wait a long time for admission.  I have no doubt that the Representatives of this State would be permitted to be heard upon the floor of Congress, but not as a matter of right.  If they were admitted at all before the ratification of the Constitution, it would be as a matter of courtesy.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  The very reason the gentleman gave in regard to Michigan is the reason why I offer this amendment; that our Representatives should not be kept waiting outside, but should be admitted at once to defend the claims of the new State.  I want Congress to have no official notification of the formation of this government, until our Representatives present it to them in person, and are on the spot to maintain the interests of California.  I do not desire that they shall have it before them in any shape until it is presented by the Representatives whom we send there, in order that we shall not be kept waiting, by sending it through the President of the United States, or any other agency, except that designated by the voice of the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I give notice that if this substitute is rejected, I will introduce a provision that the Senators and Representatives be furnished with certified copies of the constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  If I understand the meaning and intention of the amendment, it amounts to kicking the door of Congress down, instead of knocking at it.  Our Senators and Representatives are to go with the constitution in their hands and, <HI REND="italics">per se</HI>
196.sgm:<P>(Here Mr. Jones gave notice of an amendment which he should move in case the substitute under consideration was rejected.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  It is not knocking the door down to make a request.  If that request is not granted, we do not expect to go and drive Congress out of its halls.  I do not think this is a fair way of drawing off votes, offering this notice.  The proposed substitute simply amounts to this: An independent State sends its Representatives to Congress, and they respectfully request in behalf of that State to be permitted to take their seats, and ask for its admission into the Union, having complied with all the requirements of the Constitution of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I am opposed to pursuing the course indicated by my friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) for this reason.  Suppose our Members of Congress should by accident be taken sick here, or their business should keep them here a little longer than the time of departure proposed, we may not be admitted during the session of Congress.  But if our Executive transmits a copy of the Constitution to the President of the United States, he (the President) lays it before Congress, and there will be no difficulty of that kind.  Even if our Senators <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>397</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>396</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the substitute offered by Mr. Gwin, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I now move the substitute which I read a few moments ago.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I hope it will be rejected.  It is one of those propositions not becoming a free and independent State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I was in hopes the amendment of the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Halleck) would be offered here.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I think that after providing for the election of Senators and Representatives, it would be the proper place to introduce it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  Then I will vote against both this section and the proposed substitute, because I do not think they will be necessary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken upon the substitute offered by Mr. Jones, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE moved to amend the original section by striking out the latter clause, and inserting the following amendment: To strike out all after the words "President of the United States," and insert in lieu thereof, the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>And the Senators and Representatives elected under this Constitution, shall be the commissioners to present the same to Congress, and ask the admission of California as one of the States of the Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>He did not think it proper at all that the constitution should be sent to the President of the United States.  As to sending certified copies, it would be just as much to the purpose to send certified copies there by a Chilian, or an Englishman, or a Dutchman.  If you want to send a commissioner to be clothed with authority, you must send him with the official copy of the constitution, by the authority of the State of California.  It is vastly different from sending commissioners there with certified copies.  Those who are sent with the constitution should have authority to defend it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I have heard about commissioners to the Sandwich Islands, but never heard of one of the States sending commissioners to Congress.  What would be the duties of these commissioners?  Some of them are to carry a copy of this constitution to lay before Congress.  It is not to be presumed that they are to be admitted as members of Congress before the constitution is received and acted upon.  They will be commissioners to Congress, not members.  I think the gentleman (Mr. Semple) if he was elected Senator, would prefer standing there as Senator, and not as commissioner.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I want these gentlemen--call them what you please--to be something more than four individuals to hold each corner of a piece of paper; that it should be their business to do this--to ask to be heard at the bar of that House upon this very subject.  It may be one of doubt; it may be necessary that this constitution should be defended by able men sent there in behalf of the State; persons who will be able to explain to Congress why we desire to become a member of the Union, and what would be the effect of our not becoming a part of the Union.  It is for this purpose, and not merely to bear a roll of parchment, that I want this House to pass such a provision.  I do not object to the word commissioner.  A commissioner is a man who has a commission to execute.  I want these commissioners to take this constitution and ask to be heard at the bar of the House; to advocate it as the representatives of one contracting party, and endeavor to get the concurrence of the other party.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I would prefer, if they go to Congress, that they go in their proper capacity.  If they are elected as members, they should go there and claim their seats, Congress having the right to receive or reject their claims; but if the question of admission comes up before Congress, then they should claim the right of being heard.  I think, without passing any special provision in the Constitution, saying that they should go there with this parchment, if we say here that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>398</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>397</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  Under the definition of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts,) you must provide for the commissioning of these commissioners before you can send them on that duty.  I want to know if we give them any more power as commissioners than they would have as the Senators and Representatives of an independent State.  I do not agree with the gentleman who supposes that we have to go there and beg admission.  If we have any right at all under the Federal Constitution, we are secured in our right of demanding admission, and no other persons can so properly speak the voice of the people of California as her Senators and Representatives.  We do not go to a royal power to ask for an exercise of clemency.  We demand a right guarantied to us under the Constitution of the United States.  I am in favor of sending to the Executive of the United States a certified copy of the constitution; but I am also in favor of our Senators and Representatives presenting this constitution to Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I now give notice of a section which I intend to move between sections 11 and 12:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Senators and Representatives to the Congress of the United States, elected by the Legislature and people of California as herein directed, shall be furnished with certified copies of this Constitution when ratified, which they shall lay before the Congress of the United States, requesting, in the name of the people of California, the admission of the State of California into the American Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  Upon the notification of that section, I withdraw my amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I am decidedly in favor of the proposition of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck,) but I cannot agree with the doctrine entertained by the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Sherwood,) or my friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin.)  I do not agree with those gentlemen that when we elect Senator and Representatives, that they are in fact Senators and Representatives having a right to seats upon the floor of Congress.  We are but one of the high contracting parties, and until the other contracting party agrees to our proposition, it is not binding upon that party.  We say, in electing these officers, that we are willing they should be such, provided the other party agrees to receive them.  We cannot defy Congress by claiming that they have a right to their seats, whether Congress is willing to acknowledge that right or not.  If Congress is willing to admit them, then they will be entitled to their seats, but not otherwise.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, all after the words "United States," where they first occur in the section as reported, to the words "United States," inclusive, where they next occur therein, were stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After further discussion,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that it was proper to send a copy to the President of the United States, but that the constitution should be presented to the Congress of the United States through our Senators and Representatives.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD asked what General Taylor would think if this Convention sent him a copy of the constitution, and said at the same time that it was to be presented to Congress through another channel.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART thought the gentleman was mistaken on this subject.  General Taylor, by the Constitution of the United States, would be obliged to present to Congress, in his annual message, a full exposition of the state of the country.  This was emphatically connected with the state of the country.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said there were two branches of the Government-one the Executive, and the other the Legislative.  It was due to bothe that we should send them copies of this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. STEUART, the word "shall" was stricken out after the words "Executive of the existing government," and the words "is hereby requested," substituted therefor.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>399</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>398</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DE LA GUERRA moved to amend, by inserting after the words "President of the United States," the following: "For him to present it to Congress in the name of the people of California, asking to be admitted into the Union."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment was modified, at the suggestion of Mr. HALLECK, so as to read, "in order that he may lay it before the Congress of the United States," and was then agreed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The section, as amended, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee rose, and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House took a recess till 7, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 7 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON offered the following resolution, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR appointed Messrs. Pedrorena, Jones, and Vallejo such Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER then submitted the following, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved an amendment, but withdrew the same, in favor of the following substitute, proposed by Mr. Ord, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>After some discussion, the following substitute for both the previous resolutions, was offered by Mr. STEUART, and adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr.GILBERT in the chair, on so much of the report of the Committee on the Constitution, as relates to the "Schedule."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 8 was then taken up, as follows, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 8.  At the general election aforesaid, viz: the 7th day of November next, there shall be elected a Governor, Lieutenant Governor, members of the Legislature, and also two members of Congress; it being uncertain whether two members of the House of Representatives of the United States will be received, and it being impracticable at the present time to divide California into Congressional Districts, the two members of Congress will be voted for on a general ticket, by all the electors of the State qualified to vote at this election; and in case only one shall be allowed by the act of Congress, admitting the State into the Union to take his seat in that body, the one for whom the highest number of votes was cast shall be declared elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL moved to strike out "7th," so as to leave the date blank.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE remarked that there was an act of Congress requiring that members of Congress should be elected by districts in all the States.  It had been the custom for some time to elect by general ticket, so as to give the dominant party the entire delegation.  Congress saw the difficulty, and provided that each district should vote independent of the others.  He thought, therefore, that it would be necessary to make two districts, and have them altogether independent of each other.  The two members of Congress could then be elected in accordance with the act of Congress, one coming from each district.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said he was aware of an act of that kind having been passed by Congress, but it was never regarded in the States.  Mississippi, New Hampshire, South Carolina, all elected members of Congress without reference to this act.  He (Mr. Gwin) intended to vote against the election of members of Congress if the constitution adopted by this Convention was to be brought before the Congress <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>400</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>399</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Hill's motion to strike out the date, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to strike out all after the words "members of Congress," which amendment was agreed to, and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 9 being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 9.  If this Constitution shall be ratified by the people of California, the Legislature shall assemble at the seat of Government on the fifteenth day of December next; and in order to complete the organization of that body, the Senate shall elect a President <HI REND="italics">pro tempore</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. HALLECK, the date was stricken out, and the section, as amended, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sections 10 and 11, were adopted without debate, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 10.  On the organization of the Legislature, it shall be the duty of the Secretary of State to lay before each House a copy of the abstract made by the Board of Canvassers, and if called for, the original returns of election, in order that each House may judge of the correctness of the report of said Board of Canvassers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 11.  The Legislature at its first session shall elect such officers as may be ordered by this Constitution to be elected by that body, and within four days after its organization, proceed to elect two Senators to the Congress of the United States.  But no law passed by this Legislature shall take effect until signed by the Governor after his installation into office.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said he was requested to state, on the part of the Spanish gentlemen, that they could not understand what was going on, and would be obliged to leave the room without intending the slightest disrespect to the Convention, unless furnished with an interpreter.  The official interpreter was avsent on account of illness; and it was unjust to require these gentlemen to vote without affording them an opportunity of understanding what they were to vote upon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Hoppe said that Dr. Ord understood the Spanish language better than any gentleman of his acquaintance, and he moved that he be requested to act as interpreter during the remainder of the session.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD stated that his brother (Dr. Ord) declined acting as interpreter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS knew of no other course than to let the gentlemen themselves select some interpreter, and trust to the courtesy of the House to reconsider any section passed in the meantime that might be objectionable to them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN did not see how the business of the Convention was to progress in that way.  The only way was to rise and report progress, rescind the resolution to adjourn on Tuesday, and wait until an interpreter could be procured.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved the following as section 12:</P>
196.sgm:<P>12.  The Senators and Representatives to the Congress of the United States elected by the Legislature and people of California, as herein directed, shall be furnished with certified copies of this Constitution when ratified, which they shall lay before the Congress of the United States, requesting, in the name of the people of California, the admission of the State of California into the American Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN hoped this section would be rejected.  It ssemed to him that it would be trifling with the subject to send two certified copies in two different channels.  There was only one proper course to pursue; either to transmit it through the President, or through the Representatives of the State.  If the Convention was determined to transmit it through the President, then he could see no necessity for sending these certified copies through the Representatives.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS advocated the proposition.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK explained its object.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the additional section was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 12th section of the Committee's report was then taken up, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 12.  All officers of this State, other than members of the Legislature, shall be installed into office on or immediately after the first day of January next, as provided in this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the date was stricken out, and the section then adopted.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Section 13 coming up, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 13.  Until the Legislature shall divide the State into counties and senatorial and assembly districts, as directed by this Constitution, the following shall be the apportionment of the two Houses of the Legislature, viz: The districts of San Diego and Los Angelos, shall jointly elect two Senators, the districts of Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo, shall jointly elect one Senator, the district of Monterey one Senator, the district of San Jose one Senator, the district of San Francisco two Senators, the district of Sonoma one Senator, the district of Sacramento four Senators, and the district of San Joaquin four Senators; and the district of San Diego shall elect one member of assembly, the district of Los Angelos two members of the assembly, the district of Santa Barbara two members of assembly, the district of San Luis Obispo one member of assembly, the district of Monterey two members of assembly, the district of San Jose three members of assembly, the district of San Francisco five members of assembly, the district of Sonoma two members of assembly, the district of Sacramento nine members of assembly, and the district of San Joaquin nine members of assembly.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said he was requested by one of the gentleman on the other side, (a member of the native California delegation,) to state that that portion of the House would be extremely sorry to throw any obstacle in the way of the proceedings of this Convention.  They generally had very little objection to any of the provisions adopted by the Convention, but as this section was one in which they felt interested, and as they could not understand it without having it translated, and the arguments explained to them through an interpreter, they hoped at least that they would be allowed the privilege of a reconsideration, if it was deemed necessary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved that the section be passed over for the present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD was opposed to passing over the section.  If any amendments should be deemed necessary they could be presented when the subject came up for consideration in the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK read a proposition which he desired to offer here in regard to the boundaries of some of the southern districts.  They were found to be very indistinctly laid down in the old archives, and it was necessary that they should be clearly determined.  After some conversation, he agreed that the consideration of his proposition should be postponed until this section came up for final action.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 14th section being consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 14.  Until the Legislature shall otherwise directs in accordance with the provisions of this Constitution, the following shall be the salaries and pay of the several officers and members of the Legislature of this State, viz: The Governor, eight thousand dollars per annum; the Lieutenant Governor, double the pay of a State Senator; Secretary of State, four thousand dollars per annum; the Treasurer, four thousand per annum; the Attorney General, three thousand dollars per annum; the Surveyor General,--thousand dollars per annum; Justice of the Supreme Court, five thousand dollars per annum; District Judges, five thousand dollars per annum; and the members of the Legislature,--dollars per diem while in attendance, and--dollars for every twenty miles by the usual route from their residences to the place of holding the session of the Legislature, and in returning therefrom.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I find that in the article entitled Executive Department, which provides for the appointment of Secretary of State, very onerous duties are imposed upon that officer--more than upon the Secretary of State of any other State in the Union.  These are his duties:</P>
196.sgm:<P>SEC. 19.  The Secretary of State shall be appointed by the Governor, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate.  He shall keep a fair record of the official acts of the legislative and executive departments of the government, and shall, when required, lay the same and all matters relative thereto, before either branch of the Legislature, and shall perform such other duties as shall be assigned him by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now, sir, I consider that these are very onerous duties.  I move, therefore, in consideration of this fact, an amendment which shall make the compensation of the Secretary of State $5,000 per annum.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I think my colleague is entirely mistaken in regard to the duties imposed upon that officer.  He is required to keep these records, but they are prepared for him.  He is only resposible for them.  I look upon it as a very light duty.  I think it is our true policy in the organization of this State to make the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>402</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I move the question be divided, and that the vote be taken upon each of these questions separately.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR was of opinion that the Committee could act upon any of the salaries separately.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE moved to amend Mr. Gwin's motion by inserting $10,000.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  If the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Price) had not made that motion, I certainly should have done it.  I think the report of the Committee is rather a singular one.  Certain blanks here are filled; the pay of the officers of State is fixed; everything beyond that is left blank.  I see no reason why the Committee should have reported any particular sum for these officers, and left other portions of the report so lame and impotent as this.  I shall certainly sustain the motion of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Price,) because it increases the amount.  I think you cannot obtain the talents requisite to fill these offices as they should be filled without paying a liberal price.  Every body knows that in the present condition of California, not even six or eight thousand is sufficient to pay any man for the expenditure of his time in serving the public; nor will that amount clothe or feed his family, and sustain him in the position which he occupies.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I would suggest, if gentlemen are determined to pay very high salaries in California--and I admit that nothing but high salaries would command the requisite talent--that the Legislature, which comes directly from the people, have power to determine this matter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I want to present a single view to your consideration.  These salaries are all too low.  When you were voting upon the pay of the members of this House, you voted each member at the rate of $5,840 a year, and you said it was nothing like what a man got in the exercise of his profession, and you fixed it at that rate as a mere nominal pay.  It was stated by the Committee on Finance that they did not deem it by any means an appropriate remuneration for the expense sustained in coming here, and the sacrifices made.  Now I undertake to say that these officers of the State will receive less than a nominal pay if you fix it at the proposed rate.  Your Attorney General will receive about one half of what was the nominal pay of a member of this House.  I think they are all much too low; but I do pretend to be a judge of what ought to be the salary of the last mentioned officer, the Attorney General.  Your Attorney General, if you remember, should be of the best talent in the land; he is necessarily excluded from the entire practice in your criminal courts; where the State prosecutes he cannot appear, because that very case may come up before the Appellate Court, where he is bound to appear for the State.  You give him $3,000 to buy him off from all the criminals in the land, when it is well known that one criminal in California will pay that much for his defence.  Now, sir, who do you calculate to get to exclude himself from the whole criminal practice in California for the petty sum of $3,000?  For the other officers you must get the talent and ability of ten thousand dollars for five.  If you want a good article, sir, you must pay a good price.  Not only are the salaries of the other officers too low, but the salary of this officer is too low in proportion to them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I do not intend to argue this question, because the blanks will have to be filled up in the House.  I am clearly of opinion, however, that if we do not establish low rates of salaries, the expenses of the government will be so enormous that it will be very difficult to keep it operation without oppressing the community.  I have never know an office of honor in the United States where the incumbent makes anything out of it, or even sustains himself upon the salary.  There are no money-making offices under the Government of the United States.  I find the judges of the Supreme Court there are very willing to accept four thousand dollars a year.  As to the Attorney General, he is not obliged to attend to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>403</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>402</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I know the idea is rather prevalent that this thing of low salaries would be a very popular thing to electioneer with.  Now, sir, I proclaim pubicly and openly that I am a candidate for the office of Govenor, Senator of the United States, member of Congress, and Attorney General.  I am ready to go out upon the stump and meet those gentlemen there with low salaries.  I will tell them this: that there are honorable places which are kept for the rich of the land, and that a poor man cannot afford to accept them; that it requires a man of other means to accept an office which will not of itself sustain him; that the Governor could not sustain himself on $6,000 a year, but if he is worth millions there is no difficulty about it; he can then hold the highest office of state in the gift of the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  If the gentleman should be equally as successful in attacking all of those candidates who run for offices on this principle of low salaries, as he is in most of the measures which he advocates here, he will be very apt to accomplish the object I have in view.  As to putting the salaries of officers so low that none other than rich men can hold them, I have this to state: that in starting all new governments it is exceedingly difficult for the revenue of the country to be equal to the expenditures.  In Texas the President of that Republic lived in a log cabin, and slept on the floor.  His house was not secure from the weather even, and he lived in a style almost too bad for this country.  Sir, I want this distinctly understood, that I have no wish to put these salaries so low that none but rich men can hold office; but I do desire to fix them at such a reasonable and moderate standard that we can pay the expenses of the government without imposing burdensome taxes on the people; and inasmuch as this is merely temporary, and many competent men are ready and able to fill these offices, I think we might venture to put them at a rate lower than would meet the wishes of the country.  If they are deemed too low they can very easily be made higher.  I do not desire to fix the salaries below what is proper, nor have I any wish to make a political hobby in connexion with this matter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Price's amendment to make the salary of the Governor $10,000 and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  The next is the salary of the Lieutenant Governor, who has here double the pay of State Senator.  Now, acting in the capacity of President of the Senate, I can readily see why his pay should be double that of a member of the Senate; but what is to be the salary of the Lieutenant Governor, acting as Governor, in the absence of the Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN referred the gentleman to the case of the Vice President of the United States, who holds the same position in regard to the President, as the Lieutenant Governor holds to the Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Further discussion on the same grounds took place, when</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Committee rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House adjourned till 10 o'clock on Monday morning.</P>
196.sgm:<P>MONDAY, OCTOBER 8, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by Rev. Mr. Willey.  Journal of Saturday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the article on "Miscellaneous Provisions" of the Constitution was taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>404</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The question being on the motion of Mr. Lippitt to reconsider the vote by which the additional section submitted by Mr. Ord as the last section of the article was adopted,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS moved the previous question, which was sustained; and the motion to reconsider, prevail.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question then recurring on the adoption of the section, it was, by yeas and nays, decided in the negative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS--Messrs. Carrillo, Dominguez, Ellis, Gwin, Hobson, Moore, Ord, Pico, Reid, Sherwood, Stearns, Steuart, Vallejo, Wozencraft--16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Dent, Dimmick, Foster, Gilbert, Hanks, Hill, Halleck, Hastings, Larkin, Lippincott, McCarver, McDougal, Pedrorena, Price, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Vallejo, Vermeule, Walker, President--24.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the article, as amended, was ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then, on motion of Mr. GWIN, resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Gilbert in the chair, on the Schedule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 14 being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS asked who, by the previous provisions of this Constitution, were to be elected by the Legislature at the first session.  He had never seen any reason why all these officers that were to be elected by the people, should not be elected at the first election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES offered a resolution providing that the Legislature shall fix the salaries of all officers other than those elected by the people at their first election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS argued in favor of having all officers that were to be elected by the people, so elected at the first election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD contended that where so large a majority of the population were strangers to each other, and unacquainted with the best men to fill these offices, that it was absolutely necessary that they should be appointed in the beginning by the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER was in favor of these officers being elected at all times by the people.  He thought the people were the proper judges of their own officers.  With them rested the responsibility of choosing proper and efficient officers.  It was not for this Convention or the Legislature to take the choice of these officers out of their hands.  He was opposed to all log-rolling in a legislative body, which would inevitably be the case, if this matter was left to the Legislature.  He had seen too much political corruption of that kind.  It would be much easier to corrupt the Legislature than to corrupt the whole community.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the resolution, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on filling the blanks in the 14th section--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE moved to insert $3,000 as the salary of the Lieutenant Governor.  The duties were nothing more than to act as President of the Senate, which would occupy probably about fifty days in the year.  This would make sixty dollars a day, which he thought was amply sufficient to compensate that officer for his services.  At $6,000, it would be $120 a day.   It was necessary to pay these officers a good price, but he was opposed to paying $120 a day.  If the office of Governor should be vacated, and the Lieutenant Governor should take his place, he considered it perfectly proper that he should receive the pay of Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion to insert $6,000, was then withdrawn; and the question recurring on the original section so far as relates to the pay of Lieutenant Governor, it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK moved to strike out the remaining portion of the section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that the salary of the Governor was fixed; but the salary of the Lieutenant Governor was first fixed and then unfixed.  By this motion it would be left altogether depending upon a contingency.  It was not to be provided what the pay of Senators should be.  His pay was to be double that of Senators, but their pay was to be left undetermined.  He would like to know what reason there was for adopting a course of this kind.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>405</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON was of opinion that the salaries should all be fixed now, and proceeded to explain his views.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said if the gentleman was going to make a speech, he would withdraw his motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES remarked, that the Legislature, coming directly from the body of the people, would be the best judges of what their pay ought to be.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART offered the following as a substitute:</P>
196.sgm:<P>14.  Until the Legislature shall otherwise direct, in accordance with the provisions of this Constitution, the salary of the Governor shall be ten thousand dollars per annum; the salary of the Lieutenant Governor shall be double the pay of a State Senator; the pay of members of the Legislature shall be sixteen dollars per diem while in attendance, and sixteen dollars for every twenty miles travel by the usual route from their residences to the place of holding the session of the Legislature, and in returning therefrom.  And the Legislature shall fix the salaries of all officers other than those elected by the people at the first election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS moved to amend by inserting $10 as the pay of the members, instead of $16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES opposed the motion as a libel upon this Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY suggested that if we were to go in for cheap legislation, it would be better at once to put up the members of the Legislature at auction, and take the lowest bidders.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD referred to his motion made some days since, for the appointment of a commission to codifying the laws as the best mode of reducing the expenses of the Legislature.  He was in favor of paying the members of the Legislature the ordinary wages of daily laborers throughout the country, which was sixteen dollars.  The Convention had voted itself below the pay which would afford an adequate renumeration, and he was opposed to making the pay of members of the Legislature less.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Ellis's motion, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on Mr. Steuart's amendment,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to strike out all that portion of it referring to the compensation of members of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART'S substitute was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 15 being under consideration, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 15.  The limitation of the powers of the Legislature contained in article 7th of this Constitution shall not extend to the first Legislature elected under the same, which is hereby authorized to negotiate for such amount as may be necessary to pay the expenses of the State government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said it would be recollected that there was a restriction upon the Legislature in regard to State debts, in the 7th article, which prohibited the borrowing of more than $300,000.  Inasmuch as since that article was adopted, it had been determined by the Convention that this government should go into immediate operation, it might be necessary to raise a larger sum, and hence this section was reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 15th section as reported, was then adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 13th section, (being the section on the apportionment,) which had been laid aside for further consideration, was then, on motion of Mr. GWIN, taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE said he would suggest a very slight alteration to this section.  To reduce the number proposed here of Representatives from Sacramento and San Joaquin, so as to make a representation of eight Members and three Senators from each of those districts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that if he were not satisfied with the report of the Committee, he would move to increase the representation from Sacramento and San Joaquin.  He believed those districts were better entitled to ten Representatives than Monterey was to what it was allowed in the report.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT observed that when the Convention first assembled here, that was taken as a fair apportionment.  Since that time he was satisfied that immigration into these two districts was tenfold that of any and all the other <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>406</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>405</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL said that the report of the Committee was only adopted as a basis for the action of the House.  When it came up in Committee it was voted down; the majority were against it; but to save time and let the discussion come up in the House many of them changed their votes, and it was finally adopted with the understanding that it was merely a basis for the action of the House, and that the Chairman was to state that fact to the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE urged the adoption of his proposed amendment as the best means of arriving at a satisfactory result.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN hoped the House would vote down the motion of his colleague.  He agreed with the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) that so far as population was concerned, those districts were entitled to a larger representation than any other portion of the country.  If the members from those two districts were willing to let the apportionment take one-half of the Legislature, he thought it was best to give it to them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  The short period of time left to the labors of this body, Mr. President, is drawing rapidly to a close; and I submit it to you, sir, and to the House, whether that time should be further absorbed by the much longer discussion of a subject, which is well settled, I think, in the minds of a large majority this House.  But, sir, as I consider that I have not immodestly, on any occasion, trenched upon the time or patience of the Convention, I shall ask its indulgence in presenting my views upon the question before us, and the question itself in what I believe to be its naked colors.  Sir, this land of California was acquired to the American people--how?  Why, sir, to use the least offensive form of speech, it was acquired by military occupation; in more glowing phrase, it is a rich gift bequeathed to the American people by the valor of their soldiers, their volunteers, and their sailors.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Well, sir, before the proclamation of the treaty of peace, which formally affixes the fortunes and destinies of California to those of the United States, gold is discovered in the gorges of her mountains, and upon the margins of her rivers; and gold in such abundance as to challenge credulity, and render the pursuit of avarice but little more than a romantic gratification.  As the tidings spread upon the wings of the wind, and the American public are aroused to a just appreciation of the value of the territorial legacy they have acquired, it is not to be wondered at that a people as wide awake as themselves to the value of money, and as alert in its acquisition, should cross a continent, or nearly circumnavigate a hemisphere, in pursuit of the El Dorado--the great home of wealth--sealed hermetrically to other eyes, and as it would almost appear, consecrated by destiny as a guerdon to the most energetic and adventurous of modern races.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Within the past six months the population of California has augmented by tens of thousands, and the four thousand diggers of last year are transformed into a mining and trading interest which now embraces, according to a safe estimate, I think from 70,000 to 100,000 souls.  That California which but little more than a year ago was looked upon as a sparsely populated land, destined to drag on a slow territorial existence of years, now rises in her populous might and demands admission to the great American Confederacy, as one equal star of the galaxy--though she intrinsically bear the rank of a planet, new risen in the occident.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A confiding people absorbed themselves in the great pursuit of gold-getting, but ever mindful of the importance of a just and equitable system of government, based on the radical principles of their republican creed, have sent here ourselves <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>407</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>One of the most important points of difference between the two great classes is that involved in the subject before the House--the apportionment of representation.  The location of the mines in the more Northern districts of Sacramento and San Joaquim, has converged the principal tide of emigration thitherward; while the great commercial advantages accruing to the port and harbor of San Francisco, have caused a populous city to arise where but two or three years ago was little more than amphitheatre of naked hills.  And at many of the prominent points on the great bay, and of the waters leading thereto, have been formed the <HI REND="italics">nuclei</HI>
196.sgm:<P>These causes, in addition to the fact that this constitution, in its unavoidable conformity to American principles, restricts from the right of suffrage numbers of Indians, descendants of Africans, &amp;c., whom it is asserted possessed that right under the Mexican supremacy, must give a material preponderance in the Legislature of the State to the northern over the middle and southern districts.  This result, though it may be deplored, naturally enough, by the people of the latter districts, cannot be combatted, unless it be demanded that we should forego a fundamental American principle, namely, reprsentation in the ratio of population; and to this demand, if made, there is but one answer--it <HI REND="italics">cannot</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. President, I shall support by my vote the entire report of the Committee on Apportionment, because from what I have been able to gather of the subject-matter, I believe it to be well base upon the actual population of the respective districts, and therefore to be just and equitable.  To the districts of Sacramento and San Joaquin, the Committee have apportioned four Senators and nine Assemblymen each--being in each House half of its representation, and of course in joint ballot half of the entire Legislature.  Now, I presume it will not be denied upon this floor that three-fifths of the entire present population of California are actually resident within these two districts, and the proportion, in my opinion, might without exaggeration be exalted still higher.  Therefore, when your Committee assign to <HI REND="italics">three-fifths</HI>
196.sgm: (beyond dispute) of the entire people, <HI REND="italics">one-half</HI>
196.sgm: of the representation in the Legislature, have they exceeded their duty?  I think not; and such I believe will be the judgment of the House, ratified by the people of California.  The assertion that the people to whom this representation is assigned are migratory, and may be elsewhere in the winter or in the spring, I hold to be no valid argument.  We cannot entertain the question of where a citizen <HI REND="italics">will</HI>
196.sgm: live <HI REND="italics">in future</HI>
196.sgm:, in assigning to him the place for the exercise of his right of suffrage, but where <HI REND="italics">does</HI>
196.sgm:<P>I shall not, sir, consume more time by entering into detail, with regard to other districts, but believing that the Committee have presented as fair an apportionment as the nature of the peculiar circumstances of California at this time will admit, shall give to the report my hearty concurrence and support.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  So far as the basis of the plan reported by the Committee goes, I have no objection to it, except in relation to the apportionment which it fixes in the lower districts.  It allows the Districts of San Diego and Los Angeles two Senators jointly.  I object to that.  If in order, I propose to amend the report so that the District of San Diego shall elect one Senator, and the District of Los Angeles one Senator.  Let the report stand as it now is, so far as it regards the upper districts.  The interests of Los Angeles and San Diego are distinct and separate.  They have separate seaports.  I want this representation divided.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT had no objection to that and would vote for it.  He did not see why those districts should not have a separate representation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE did not see how San Diego could have one Senator, when the whole Senate was only allowed one-half of the popular Assembly, which was sixteen.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARRILLO said he regarded the proposition of the gentleman from San Diego as very unjust; that San Diego, which had only about a thousand inhabitants, should have the same representation as Los Angeles, which had eight thousand.  He could not perceive any fairness in such a proposition; nor did he see any justice in the comparison which had been made between the population of Los Angeles and Sacramento and San Joaquin.  The inhabitants of those two districts were migratory; they had no settled locality; nobody knew where to find them; they did not reside there; whilst in Los Angeles the people were permanent residents; they had property, and were not constantly moving about from one part of the country to another.  He wished als  to impress upon the House that the great population in the two upper districts did not consist altogether of American citizens; there were foreigners there from all parts of the world, who contributed greatly to the imposing appeatance of the population.  They had no right to vote, whilst nearly the entire population below had that right.  Although great numbers were arriving in San Francisco, a large portion of them were women and children and foreigners.  He requested that this subject would be taken into consideration again, and that a Committee would be appointed to give a just representation, which he did not conceive this to be.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  The gentleman from Los Angeles (Mr. Carrillo) asks where the population of the upper districts is to be found; he inquires who knows where it is, and states that it is a transient, migratory population.  I can give him a different account.  If he goes to the city of Sacramento, he will find there splendid buildings, not tents.  They have grown up as if by magic, within the last few months; all solid, permanent buildings of every character and description.  You find a beautifully laid out city, with its eight or nine thousand industrious inhabitants, all busy in promoting the prosperity of the place; you hear the hammer and the saw at all times.  There you start, and you can find below another busy, thriving town, containing a large number of inhabitants--how many I do not know; but I believe my friend (Mr. McDougal) can tell what the city of Sutterville contains.  All along in both places, you can see the river covered with shipping; forests of masts cover the water.  Go on further up, and you find numerous large ranches; go to each of the branches and triutaries of the Sacramento, and you find a great many permanently established towns.  My friend from Vernon (Mr. Crosby) can tell you what the city of Vernon was when he left there.  Such is the extraordinary improvement of these places; such the additions from day to day to the population, that in one week they may be doubled and trebled.  You find numerous towns scattered all over this district, permanently established; a large number of the inhabitants fixed, not in tents, but in well constructed houses, and these are daily on the increase.  You can go to the little interior town of Columna, and there you find a permanent population of fifteen hundered or two thousand.  Go beyond that to what is called the old Dry Diggings, and there you find from a hundred and fifty to two hundred well built houses.  Go beyond that to the settlement of Weaver's Creek, and there you find some sixty or a hundred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>409</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARRILLO.  When I spoke of Sacramento and San Joaquin, I did not intend to compare their population with that of Los Angeles; but I did wish to have it understood that however large that population may be, they never had near the landed interest that they have down below.  If you take into consideration the immense agricultural interests of the southern portion of the country, there is no comparison whatever between San Joaquin at least, and Los Angeles.  In regard to Sacramento, I regard it as possessing great agricultural interests, but San Joaquin can bear no comparison.  The population of San Joaquin is completely migratory; and it is doing great injustice to give Los Angeles so small a represntation compared with that districts.  I am perfectly willing that San Joaquin should have a representation equal to that of Los Angeles, but not more.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCDOUGAL.  From the last source in the world that I should expect an objection to come to the report of the Committee is San Francisco.  The representation given by this Committee to that district, is greater in proportion to its inhabitants than any other district.  It may be, perhaps, that the gentleman has got some of the southern notions in his head about property representation; and that he claims for San Francisco, which is a land of stock-jobbing, a reduction of the number of representatives in the populous districts, with a view to increasing the number in San Francisco.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I hope the gentleman does not apply his remarks to me.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCDOUGAL.  I am very happy to relieve the gentleman.  I will confine myself to the other gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Price.)  When this report was made, I thought if there was any district in theritory that had a right to complain, it was the San Joaquin and Sacramento districts.  If we undertake to have the representation of this State upon population, this is certainly a very unfair distribution of the members.  If the population is to be considered, I contend that the apportionment is unjust; and we certainly have some data to guide us.  These two districts ought to have at least three-fourths in the next assembly, instead of one-half, and that is a liberal apportionment to the other districts.  I have some data here, Mr. Chairman, which I respectfully submit for the benefit of those liberal members who are at least willing to give a representation in proportion to population.  By a careful estimate, emigrant parties have started, amounting to 36,600, and parties from other portions of the country, amounting to as much more.  That population comes direct into Sacramento and San Joaquin.  I put it down at <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>410</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Now I have given our district but five thousand, while we have a population at once of sixty thousand people.  Upon that, you have a representation of nine members.  I presume the gentleman (Mr. Price) will not claim for San Francisco over six or ten thousand at most, which is a very liberal estimate.  The report gives him five representatives for ten thousand; and Sacramento, nine for sixty-five thousand.  Who has a righ to complain?  I presume, when the gentleman rose to make his amendment, that he had but one objection; if he had other objections he would have embraced them in his amendment.  He can see no objection to the very large representation allowed to San Francisco, the land of stockjobbers; but when he comes  up to the main population of the country, he can see very great disproportion.  I understand the population of San Diego to be one thousand, and they have one Senator and one Representative.  By that principle, if we apportion the number of Senators and Representatives according to the population, we ought to have sixty Senators and sixty Representatives in the next Legislature.  But I do not rise for the purpose of making any complaint against the report of Committee.  I am satisfied with the number that they given us, and I shall vote for it; and I think if we are satisfied, other members who have largely over us, in proportion to their population, ought certainly to be satisfied.  And now, sir, I presume if the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Price) is at all liberal, allowing the representation to be in proportion to population, he will rise in his seat, apologise to the representatives from Sacramento and San Joaquin, and withdraw his motion.  I trust in his honesty and integrity to rise and withdraw his amendment, or decrease the representation as given by the Committee to San Francisco.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  There is no gentleman in this Convention for whom I have a higher regard than for my friend who has last addressed the House.  He seems to be wonderfully given to figures.  Now, sir, I have a penchant for arithmetic myself, but I work out entirely different results from those produced by the gentleman from Sacramento.  Sir, I was brought up in a democratic school, and I never yet assumed that property should be represented.  I have always taken the broad ground that representation should be according to population; that has always been my creed, and I do not mean to depart from it now.  The gentleman, in supposing that I had property in view when I moved my amendment, is entirely mistaken.  I moved it with this view.  There is one principle incorporated here which I rather object to, and that is the representation in both Houses being in accordance with numbers.  In the State from which I came, and in most of the States of the Union, one branch--the upper branch--of the Legislature is represented equally by districts or counties, without regard to numbers.  In the Congress of the United States the same principle is observed, by the representation in the Senate.  This has always been considered a very wholesome restraint upon majorities, in protecting the rights and interests of minorities.  Under this Constitution, as we have shaped it, we give a large district the same power in both branches of the Legislature; and in moving this amendment my object is to provide for the protection of minorities--a principle which is so generally recognized under our system of goverment.  I have reduced one member in Sacramento and one San Joaquin.  I have no doubt all, sir, in regard to the great extent of the population in those districts.  Probably at this time they can justly claim all that the Committee have asked for; but it is only for the first Legislature that we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>411</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I claim the full responsibility of the act.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS.  I hope the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. MCCARVER) will not make any further allusions to the negro question.  If it comes up again I will be ready to head him with the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER said his proposition was to cut down the District of San Francisco to its proper proportion, if the motion of the gentleman (Mr. Price) prevailed.  He thought the Districts of Sacramento and San Joaquin should not be cut down, and San Francisco be allowed a representation already too large.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES claimed to say a few words for San Joaquin.  He stood here as the representative of living cities and full houses--not empty ones; as the representative of a district into which people were going, not one from which they were coming; a district filling up-he might say already filled up--in a most extraordinary manner.  (Here Mr. Jones went into a calculation to show the rapid increase of population in the District of San Joaquin.)  There were people there that he knew nothing about--thousands pouring in from all quarters that he had never heard of.  He received sixty-nine votes in one precinct, and had not been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>412</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I am not going to advocate the interests of Sacramento or San Joaquin; they can take care of themselves; nor am I going to attack my friend from San Francisco, (Mr. Price,) for I think he has been so torn to pieces that there is not a particle of him left; but there has been a principle avowed upon this floor that I mean to attack, and that principle is, that the ratio of population is not the proper ratio of representation.  That principle the gentleman (Mr. Price) laid down, and said it was a democratic principle; that the ratio of representation in the Senate should not be in proportion to population.  Why did not the gentleman, when that provision of our constitution came before the House--"representation shall be according to population"--why did he not rise in his seat and say that this great principle was only half true; true in the lower house, but not true in the upper?  I know there are men who have a tendency towards democratic principles that the gentleman avows; but, sir, they are babes and sucklings in democracy.  Such I apprehend is my friend.  They find that by the Constitution of the United States the Senate is constituted without regard to numbers.  It was battled against in the Convention that framed the Constitution as an aristocratic feature; but it was put in there for a most wholesome and useful purpose--to preserve the soverignty of the individual States, and place them upon an equal footing.  In the one case, it is an imperfect government, consisting of limited powers delegated to it by a Confederacy of States; in the other, it is a perfect government, originating directly from the people.  Those who, like my friend, do not look at this fact are misled, and endeavor to introduce the principle where it does not belong.  It is a law maxim-- <HI REND="italics">cessante ratione lex ipsa cessat</HI>
196.sgm:<P>I have one remark more to make, not in defence of San Joaquin, but of the population of San Joaquin.  If he was rightly interpreted, the gentleman from Los Angeles (Mr. Carrillo) said that he admitted that there was a greater amount of population in that district than in Los Angeles; but he said there was no comparison between the kind of population.  I know, sir, that that district is called "Los Angeles;" perhaps it may be his idea that the people of Los Angeles are the people of "the Angels," and consequently a very superior kind of population.  When I came to this country I was told that Los Angeles was a place fit for the angels; but without denying that, or going into that branch of the subject, I will remark while I am up, that the gentleman's argument with respect to a division of the apportionment of two Senators between Los Angeles and San Diego is irresistible in my mind, and I shall vote against the proposition of the gentleman <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>413</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCDOUGAL.  I rise merely to say that the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Steuart) is certainly laboring under a delusion when he states that the people who are flocking back from the mines, go to San Francisco for the purpose of becoming residents.  I know from my own observation that such is not the fact.  I have frequently this summer been up and down that river from San Francisco to Sacramento, and each time on my return to San Francisco, the vessel was crowded with persons coming down from Sacramento; but they were coming down to purchase goods, and expected to return as soon as they completed their purchases.  There might be some few on their way back to their native States, who stopped there a short time, but finding themselves fleeced of their gold, they had to return to the mines to resucitate their pockets.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I regret that the gentleman from Los Angeles (Mr. Carrillo) is not in his seat, as I wish to say something in relation to the remarks that he made relative to the population of that and the mining districts.  It is well <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>414</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  Believing that we have had sufficient discussion on this subject, I move the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  Will the gentleman withdraw his motion for a moment?  I have but a word to say upon this matter.  I am fully convinced that there is a general disposition to make a fair and equitable apportionment.  In the absence of all statistical information, and believing that gentlemen have stated facts as to the population of the mining districts, without any interested motives; believing that the district of Sacramento is an immense mining district, and entitled to the full representation reported by the Committee, I should have said nothing if the gentleman from San Joaquin (Mr. Wozencraft) had not made a most unfortunate statement in regard to the population there.  He says a large portion of them are composed of the native population; that that they are the brethren of the southern people here.  If this is so, and I do not doubt it, where is their property?  It is in the southern districts where their homes are, and where they will vote at the coming election.  I do not wish to take the vote from the district of San Joaquin that she is entitled to; but I think it is due to the member from Los Angeles, (Mr. Carrillo,) to say that the statement he made is a fair one.  As to the remarks of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts) in regard to "the Angels," he misconstrued the remarks of the gentleman from Los Angeles.  He (Mr. Carrillo) merely said that the people in Los Angeles were a permanent, fixed population--that they were owners of the soil; but that in the upper districts the population was migratory.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I wish to withdraw my amendment, if the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Price) will withdraw his.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS.  I hope he will withdraw it.  I have not discovered that the feeling of any member from San Francisco is in favor of it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARRILLO.  Some gentleman has stated that in the district of San Joaquin there is a large number of inhabitants of Los Angeles, who being there would have the right to vote there.  I understand from a provision of the constitution which we have adopted, that no individual of one district is allowed to vote in another district.  The reason is very obvious; that the judges of the election must qualify those who are allowed to vote and those who are not.  If a person from one district is in another he is not allowed to vote.  Therefore, I consider that that argument is completely refuted by the facts as they exist.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMUELE.  I rise to say a single word.  If, unfortunately for the district of Los Angeles, it be true that a considerable number of actual residents in San Joaquin be persons owning landed property in the district of Los Angeles, what are we to do with them?  They cannot live in San Joaquin and vote by deputy in Los Angeles.  Does the gentleman wish to deprive them of their franchise altogether?  They cannot vote in Los Angeles.  Does he mean to say that they should not vote at all?</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR explained that the law in relation to residence would not apply at the first election.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARRILLO said he was perfectly satisfied with that explanation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE then withdrew his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER also withdrew his; when the question recurring on Mr. Hill's amendment--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORIEGO said he was extremely sorry he could not coincide in opinion with the gentleman from San Diego (Mr. Hill.)  He thought that gentleman's proposition would be very far from meeting the approbation of the southern pueblos.  It would be very unfair that San Diego, with only a thousand inhabitants, should have a larger representation than Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  So far as the population is concerned, I do not think any body here can tell the exact population.  I only ask to divide the two Senators.  Los Angeles has two and San Diego none.  All I ask is that San Diego shall have one of the Senators, so that we may have a representation in the Senate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I always bow to the decision of this House, especially when that decision is in unison with my own views.  The House has decided that representation ought to be in proportion to population.  According to this principle the united districts of Los Angeles and San Diego ought to have two Senators and no more; and now the proposition comes to split the two Senators.  All I can say is this.  If that district is to be separated, I would desire to separate it on the principle laid down by this House; and I would run the line so as to have as much population in the district of San Diego as in Los Angelos, but that is impossible; consequently I cannot vote for such a disproportionate arrangement as the gentleman proposes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Hill's amendment, and it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS moved to amend by inserting "And the District of the Great Salt Lake fifteen Senators and thirty Members of Assembly."  This he desired to add to the latter clause of the section.  He was opposed to including the Salt Lake settlement in the State of California; he thought this Convention had nothing to do with it; but inasmuch as they were included by the boundary adopted in Committee of the Whole, he deemed it just and proper that they should be represented.  Was there a gentleman here who would assert that this population of thirty thousand souls should have no representation--that no district should comprehend them?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said they were comprehended in the District of Sacramento.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS said that the representation of Sacramento was not based upon that calculation, nor were the boundary lines of that district so laid down.  Here was a large population positively included within the limits of the State, and compelled to become amenable to the laws, and that, too, by force if necessary; and yet no provision was to be made to give them a representation in the Legislature.  This was the doctrine of those who insisted upon including the entire territory.  He offered this amendment for the purpose of providing for every human soul within the limits of the State, in case this boundary should be fixed by the final action of the House.  It was not reasonable, it was not just; it was in conflict with the spirit of our Declaration of Rights to include them, and not give them the benefit of representation.  It was a mockery to pretend to give them the benefit of government, and refuse to give them the benefit of representation.  Even if they had their proper representation in the Legislature, justice would not then be done them, for they had not enjoyed the benefit of representation in this Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES was of opinion that when the people of the Salt Lake thought proper to apply for the admission of their representatives into the Legislature of the State, every facility would be afforded them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS hoped the gentleman would withdraw his amendment.  He would not make a speech.  He preferred seeing this whole subject laid aside until the boundary question was fixed.  Much had been said about the population of the District of Sacramento; and yet it was not determined what that district should <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>416</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN said that the proposition of the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Hastings) was evidently intended to get in an argument on the boundary question.  That gentleman and the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) both knew very well that the Committee had gone to the extreme limit of representation; that it had gone to thirty-six representatives.  The proposed amendment was only intended to forestall the action of the House in an indirect manner on the boundary question.  The gentlemen were well aware that when this question came to be considered in the House they would be under the operation of the five minutes rule, and they took advantage of this fact to introduce the subject here, where they could have long speeches to sustain their own particular views.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER had no doubt that the House would fix a permanent eastern boundary, and that by that action his colleague's amendment would be rendered null and void.  If that portion of the country was to be included, he thought they were equally as well entitled to a representation as other districts.  But at present, as it was not positively known to what conclusion the House would come, he thought it better that the proposition should not be acted upon.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS wished to say a single word.  Those who contended that the Salt Lake was included within the District of Sacramento labored altogether under mistaken views.  That district did not extend beyond the Sierra Nevada.  He could adduce the proclamation of General Riley to prove it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT did not know that it was obligatory to district the entire territory until after the census was taken.  He thought there was no impropriety in excluding any portion which was not within the districts now known and established.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL agreed with his colleague, (Mr. Hastings,) that if the people of the Salt Lake were included in the boundaries of this State, they ought to have a representation in the General Assembly, but he could not agree with him in regard to the number.  He moved to amend the amendment so as to make it read: "Four Senators and nine Members of Assembly."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES said it was related of the inhabitants of some city of the East, that they met together and petitioned the Deity that each man should have the sentiments of his soul written upon his forehead.  Now he did know whether any of the inhabitants in this part of the world had the word Buncombe written upon their foreheads, but certain it was, that it would be a very strikingly visible inscription upon the foreheads of certain members of this Convention, if the sentiments of their souls were written there.  Here was a resolution introduced to get up an excitement upon a question not connected with what was before the House at all.  The gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Hastings) stated that there were twenty-five or thirty thousand inhabitants at the Salt Lake.  While in Committee of the Whole, and while this subject was up, he would ask that gentleman, who knew infinitely more about the population of that region than any gentleman on this floor, if he considered this to be a settled and permanent population?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK wished to know whether this was a deliberative body sitting here to form a Constitution, or a mere debating society.  This sort of discussion was children's play; it was a useless expenditure of the people's money.  What was the object of this Convention?  What were the members doing?  He appealed to them to trifle away their time no longer; he trusted they would turn to their work in earnest, and confine themselve to the business before the House.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD did not think it advisable that the vote should be taken now.  He would therefore move to rise and report progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was adopted, and the Committee rose and reported progress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN gave notice of an ordinance to be attached to the Constitution, which was laid upon the table, subject to call.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then took a recess of one hour.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 3 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House resolved itself into Committee of the Whole, Mr. Gilbert in the chair, on the "Schedule."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being on the amendment of Mr. Hastings to the 13th section, it was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Section 13 was then adopted as reported.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After a short discussion on the same grounds already taken in Committee, the first blank in the 6th section was filled with "thirteenth," and the second blank with "tenth."  The blank in the 8th section was filled with "thirteenth."  The blank in section 9th was filled with "twentieth."  The blank in section 12th was filled with "fifteenth day of December."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The "Schedule" was then, on motion, laid aside, and the "Preamble" taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Preamble, as reported by the Committee, with the substitute as proposed by Mr. Gwin and Mr. Shannon, being under consideration--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN withdrew his amendment, to allow</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT to present the following, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>We, the people of California, in the exercise of the right of self-government which belongs to the people under the Constitution of the United States, for the prupose of organizing a State Government, do hereby ordain and establish this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON then withdrew his proposition, to allow</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS to offer the following, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>In order to institute a government, the free and independent people of California do ordain as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that if this preamble was to be rejected, he should prefer the one nominally offered by the Select Committee; he said nominally, for the Committee had never seen it.  It was the preamble of the New York Constitution, and that was one of the greatest objections to it.  It was not the report of the Committee.  The report read in this way, after the first clause: "do establish this Constitution by order of the Select Committee."  But there was also this objection to it.  He (Mr. Botts) had always been opposed to the abuse of the language of prayer and thanksgiving on occasions of this kind.  He thought there was an inappropriateness in it.  Gentlemen should consider the circumstances under which this Constitution was to be made.  It was to be made by the votes of the people at the polls.  They are supposed to adopt the language of that instrument.  But it is well known that no such feeling or sentiment prevails at a political meeting.  The voter may be a religious man and may pray at other times, but he is not in the proper frame of mind to utter prayers at the polls.  There has always been, in my mind, an hypocricy in making him say what he does not intend to say, and what he does does not even think of saying.  The closet is the proper place for devotion--not the ballot-box.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  I have but a single word to remark in regard to this reference in the preamble to the Supreme Being.  I think it is very appropriate; and although we may not (some of us at least) be in the habit of praying, where an opportunity occurs when it would be not only appropriate but proper to do so, that we should do it.  The gentleman's remarks that the voters at the polls in making this Constitution, are supposed to adopt its language, and therefore make such a prayer to the Supreme Being, only show how desirable it is to insert this clause.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>418</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>417</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I think the gentleman from Monterey has rather forgotten his remarks made some short time since, in which he quoted from the Constitution of his native State an article which, if I mistake not, was worthy the pen of the recording angel.  That clause read something in this manner: that religion or the duty which we owe to our Creator and the manner of discharging it, can be directed only by reason and conviction, not by force or violence; therefore, all men are equally entitled to the free exercise of religion, according to the dictates of conscience; and that it is the mutual duty of all to practise christian forbearance, love, and charity towards each other.  I acknowledged the full force of the remark made by the gentleman at the time; and for one, I do not hesitate to avow, upon this floor, that I should have been well pleased to have adopted in our constitution a similar provision.  I think we should make a due reference to the Supreme Being in performing a work of such magnitude and importance as this.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I am really in hopes that the preamble suggested by my friend from Monterey will be adopted, for this reason: that it is original.  Another reason is, that it is brief; if it had been still briefer, it would have been still better.  The nearer it approaches to nothing, the better is the preamble.  A preamble is altogether unnecessary.  If gentlemen will turn to the Constitution of Mississippi, they will find that there is no preamble at all.  "The Constitution of Mississippi" is all we find there.  In reference to the prayer, we find that there is nothing like a prayer in it except the President's name, which is Pray.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  There is a preamble and a very appropriate one, to the Constitution of Mississippi: "That the general, great, and essential principles of liberty and free government may be recognized and established, we declare."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Botts' substitute, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The proposition of the Committee, and the substitute offered by Mr. Lippitt, were rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Thereupon, the Committee rose and reported the "Schedule" and the "Preamble" to the House, with sundry amendments, which report was received and laid upon the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then adjourned to 7 o'clock, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 7 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the report of the Committee of the Whole on the Preamble was taken up, and the amendment of the Committee was non-concurred in.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the adoption of the report of the Committee on the Constitution, the words "the State of" were by unanimous consent, stricken out, and thus amended, the Preamble, as reported by the Committee, was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. DIMMICK, the Preamble was ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. ELLIS, the report of the Committee of the Whole on the "Boundary," was then taken up, and</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS moved the following substitute therefor, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>419</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>418</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON called the attention of the House to the amendment which he had offered in Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER recapitulated some of the arguments which he had advanced in Committee in favor of fixing a permanent eastern boundary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN explained the nature of the proposition adopted in in Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said there was a sort of tacit understanding that the vote was to be taken upon this question without further debate.  He desired either one thing or the other--either no debate at all, or full debate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the substitute of Hastings, and it was adopted, by yeas 23, nays 21, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs.  Aram, Botts, Brown, Crosby, Dent, Dimmick, Ellis, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hastings, Larkin, McCarver, McDougal, Norton, Ord, Price, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Steuart, Walker, President.--23.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs.  Carrillo, Covarrubias, Dominguez, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hobson, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippincott, Moore, Pedrorena, Pico, Rodriguez, Sherwood, Stearns, Shannon, Tefft, Vallejo, Wozencraft.--21.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. DIMMICK, the article was ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. PRICE, the Schedule was then taken up for consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The 1st section was adopted as reported from the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved that the Schedule be laid aside, an that the House proceed to the third reading of the constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR observed that it would be necessary to suspend the rule requiring the third reading on a separate day.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said he had voted in the affirmative on the boundary question, with a view to moving a reconsideration for the purpose of introducing a substitute.  He now moved that the vote on the engrossment of the article on the boundary be reconsidered.</P>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>419</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>[Here Mr. HASTINGS interrupted the gentleman from Sacramento to say that he hoped the House would either rescind or observe the five minutes rule.]</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD said he would detain the House but a few moments longer.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL moved to rescind the rule, which was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD then proceeded: I have no motive in making these remarks other than those indicated in the remarks themselves.  I have said before that I do not desire this territory east of the Sierra Nevada as a portion of the State permanently; but it is on account of the discussion of this question, which to the knowledge of every man upon this floor has prevented our having a government here up to this period, that I wished our boundary to comprise what was and what is California.  If this question is not kept out of Congress, if you barely go to the snowy mountains, or to a parallel of longitude beyond that, you leave the whole tract beyond that entirely open to discussion.  It was for naught that we said to the Northern States last fall, in the presidential contest, that the people here did not want slavery.  It made no difference.  The fire had got among them; they were determined by their votes to settle the question.  Men were not there disposed to reason upon a question of this character; they were not willing to leave <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>421</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>420</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I want to make a few remarks on this subject, if I can keep cool.  I want to bring to your notice the history of this transaction here tonight.  This agitating question of the boundary, as I said before, had been tacitly agreed upon so far as this: that it was not to be discussed here; that a vote was to be taken on it without discussion.  I think my friend from San Francisco (Mr. Gwin) so far recognized that that was his understanding and agreement that when he inadvertently made a few remarks upon the subject, he even came forward and withdrew them.  But the vote is taken and carried in a particular way; then, indeed, the floodgates of discussion are opened, and that stringent five minutes rule is rejected at once.  Why is this?  Because discussion, and discussion of more than five minutes becomes necessary to effect the objects of gentlemen.  Who made that five minutes rule, a few days ago, when it suited their purpose not to discuss this question?  Those who now object to it because it conflicts with their present position.  Now, Mr. President, I will enter upon the merits of the question, and there are no five minute rules to interdict me.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The gentleman who has last taken his seat (Mr. Sherwood) has made his strongest appeal in behalf of this extreme eastern boundary; that it will be the only means of getting you into the Union.  Sir, I can tell you this will not be the means of your admission; you will never get into the Union with this boundary.  If you do, it will be only to sit among its ruins, like Marius among the ruins of Carthage.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Let me relate to you the history of this question, and I will relate it perhaps a little different from the gentleman who has taken his seat.</P>
196.sgm:<P>There has been for some years in the United States a most violent party, who have waged war against the rights of the Southern people with respect to their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>422</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>421</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>422</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  No, sir; I came from no such section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. President, the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) how eloquent he was a day or two ago, when he was speaking of the passage of the revenue law in the Congress of the United States to be extended over this territory; over a people that had never been represented there.  With what face can that gentleman now propose to do to others that which he so strenuously objected to when applied to himself?  Does he not propose that a Legislature shall be called together here in a little while that shall have the power of taxing this very people that have never been represented here in this Convention?  If you want to increase the bounds of your State, sir, extend your laws and impose your taxes over a territory beyond that which is represented here; if you wish to do it in conformity with the republican principles which you have avowed, you should dissolve this Convention, call a new Convention from all parts of the country which you propose to include in your State; then it will be legal and proper, and then there will be no Southern man found to dispute your principles.  Yes, sir; call your <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>424</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>423</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Then, Mr. President, I say briefly, upon every ground of policy and convenience, and every ground of right and justice, you cannot extend the eastern boundary of California beyond that portion that is represented here.  I say that, in effect, you have already designated the eastern boundary; that General Riley proclaimed the eastern boundary of California in his proclamation, and the people said amen.  I say that he, in his proclamation, called upon the people of California in pursuance of instructions, if you please--California as laid down in certain described lines--to form this Convention, and they, through their representatives, have excluded slavery for themselves; and is it for you, sir, now to reverse that decision.  No, sir, you cannot do it; the people themselves cannot do it; the people themselves, within certain limits, cannot make rules for people without those limits.  A line has been laid down for you already; you have adopted it; and, sir, I only voted for the other line because I was told that it probably included no other additional human being than those included in the true and proper line; but the true and proper line to which we would be legally bound, is the line laid down in that proclamation under which we make laws for those whom we represent, and for no others.  Why, sir, is it necessary at this day, in this enlightened country, to stand here and argue and prove that people can make laws only for themselves?  I am ashamed of the position that I am compelled to occupy.  Sir, you may ask me why I voted for the other line--for other than the line laid down in the proclamation.  I have already stated the reason; it was because I was informed that there were none, or so few, that they were perhaps hardly worth mentioning, and I was compelled to yield something of my own <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>425</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>424</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>I hope then, Mr. President, if the object be to reconsider this vote to extend the line to the extreme eastern limits of the territory, from the most contracted line, that it will not be reconsidered for any such purpose.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  The gentleman from Monterey has argued long upon a question which is without any foundation whatever.  He assumes that we have no right in this House of Delegates, to extend this constitution beyond the limits which are here presented; and that has been his chief and principal argument upon the floor here.  I think a simple statement of facts, founded upon circumstances much more striking than this, will have a greater weight than any arguments based upon an assumption of that kind.  When the Convention for the formation of the constitution of Wisconsin was called, the large district to Saint Croix was not represented at all in that Convention.  That constitution was adopted and the lines extended so as to include the district of Saint Croix within the State.  Not only was that district unrepresented in that Convention, but a protest was sent to Congress requesting that they should not be included in those boundaries, but should become a part of what was afterwards the Territory of Minesota.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  And that Convention acted most foully in doing it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  They did it nevertheless.  The district of Saint Croix was made a part of the State, and the people are now represented in the State Legislature.  I believe that is a precedent that warrants us, with other strong reasons, in taking the extreme eastern boundary.  I had formed the conclusion when this matter was agitated before, that from all the circumstances, the extreme eastern line was the proper line.  My views have not as yet been changed, and I have been open to conviction on this subject, for I go for policy and principle in all cases, whether they accord with my own feelings or not.  I have listened carefully to every argument urged against it, with a sincere desire to cast my vote in such manner as would best promote the interests of California, and I must say that I have as yet seen no cause why I should come to a different conclusion from that which I before expressed.  I must confess it was with great surprise that I saw certain members of this House whose minds I thought had been made up, vote in Committee of the Whole one way, and in the House completely change their votes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I profess to have come recently from the States.  I have not received any letters; but I can corroborate the statement of the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood) in regard to the feeling there.  I do say, sir, that there is a grand combination of the North and West, the extreme West, against the South in this question of slavery.  It is a question in comparison with which, every thing else that has been argued here, is trifling.  I believe gentlemen will see when our constitution comes to be considered in the halls of Congress, that it is a matter of vital importance, not to California alone, but to our whole Confederacy.  I do not wish to assume for this House of Delegates any greater degree of importance than it bears; but I do firmly believe, that for the past fifty years, no body of men have met together under circumstances of greater responsibility--circumstances which place it in their power to work greater weal or woe, not only to themselves and those whom they represent, but to the whole Confederacy of which they form a part, than this Convention.  It is now in their power to mark out the ground and provide the effectual means of quieting this agitating question of slavery.  Without reference to party feeling at home, let us look at what is right and fair in the premises; and then if we find that it coincides with views of good policy, and will have a beneficial influence in the Congress of the United States, let us proceed and adopt it.  The Senate of the United States have said, in an official map, that such and such are the bounds of California; let us take those boundaries and say that they are the limits of the State of California.  There is no doubt whatever in my mind that this extreme eastern boundary will meet with the entire approbation of the Southern party; every free-soil man of the North and West, and that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>426</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>425</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  We have just passed upon this question, and, in my opinion, settled as it should be; but it is again raised by a reconsideration, and the object in raising it seems to be to again extend the boundary over this entire territory.  For what purpose, Mr. President, is this to be done?  It is stated boldly and publicly that the object designed to be accomplished is this: first, to settle the question of slavery for a vast extent of territory--an extent as large as all the nonslaveholding States of the Union.  Now, sir, I assume this ground, and I believe it to be incontrovertible, that we neither settle the question of slavery, nor can we get into the Union if we include this entire territory.  Instead of settling that question we raise it.  No man, if he reflects, can arrive at any other conclusion.  If we fix a reasonable and moderate boundary the question of slavery is forever settled; but if we include territory enough for thirteen or fourteen States the question is raised.  The Congress of the United States will have no occasion to refer to that question if we include only sufficient territory for a single State.  They have agreed by compromise that we have the right to determine it for ourselves.  Would the South raise the question?  No, sir; they have agreed that we have a perfect right to settle it for ourselves.  Will the North raise it?  That would be very singular, when they have a new free State added to the Union.  Nobody can raise the question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In reference to leaving an open boundary, it is objectionable precisely on the same ground; we neither settle the question of slavery nor the boundary; nor can we get into the Union with such a proviso.  The South will forever insist upon limiting us to the smallest possible extent of territory; the North will oppose the position taken by the South; and North and South will contend for years to come, as they have contended for years past, and meantime we are left without a government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In consideration of these facts, sir; in consideration of the population of forty or fifty thousand in the region proposed to be included, and who are not represented here, I trust no such course will be pursued.  One gentleman has remarked upon this floor, that there are other portions of California not represented here; that perhaps not one-half of the people in certain districs have been represented; that perhaps not one-third of the people have voted.  But, sir, observe the difference.  These people have had notice that a Convention was to be held.  It was optional for them to vote or not; and now they have their option to vote or not upon the constitution.  But the people east of the Sierra Nevada, whom you propose to include, have no such option.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I think, sir, that the sentiment of this House is now decided; and I think there is no probability that a proposition so monstrous will ultimately be adopted.  Whether the House may think proper to narrow the boundary proposed by the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>427</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>426</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I do not intend at the present time to enter into any discussion of the different propositions of boundaries which have been made to the House.  I shall, however, vote for a reconsideration; not that I am wedded to the proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Gwin,) in favor of which I voted before, with the proviso offered by myself, but for this reason: that of all the boundaries which have been proposed by this House, I think the one last adopted is the most objectionable.  I, sir, certainly prefer next to the one first mentioned that of the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. McDougal.)--I prefer it to the proposition of the other gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Shannon,) and even to the original report of the Committee on the boundary.  But of all the boundaries proposed, I think the one just passed is the most awkward and objectionable, and I do hope the House will reconsider that vote; and if they are determined not to adopt the boundary with the proviso, as passed in Committee of the Whole, that they will take one of the other propositions.  If they still adhere to the proposition just passed, I trust that they will fix a proviso to it so as to render it less objectionable than it now is.  I do not intend to discuss the main question, as to which of the provisos is best, but I really think we jeopard our admission unless we adopt some provision of that kind, leaving Congress, with the content of the Legislature, to fix upon any other line to the westward that may be desirable.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  When I moved a reconsideration of this matter I had no idea that we would have had anything like the discussion that we have had.  I supposed that all like myself were very desirous that we should get through the business before us, that we might return to our respective places of residence; and I was somewhat surprised when I heard a long speech from my colleague, (Mr. Sherwood,) and another from the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts,) entering into a discussionof the whole question.  I gave my vote for the measure just passed, and I gave it for the purpose of reconsidering it, for I consider it very objectionable--more objectionable than any yet proposed.  I fully agree with the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck,) in the opinion which he has expressed of this boundary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Nature, sir, has marked out for us the boundary line of California.  God has designated her limits, and we ought not to go beyond the line traced by the Omnipotent hand.  The snowy range of the Sierra Nevada separates two communities of this country; one community living upon the eastern side and the other upon the western; they can have no connexion, either social or political.  I therefore am opposed to any line which proposes to connect the two, or bring them under the same government and the same laws.  When the Committee reported, they made their boldest and strongest argument upon that very ground; that there was a line forbidding any social or political union between the communities residing upon either side of that range of mountains.  They set forth in that report this argument as perfectly conclusive; and it struck me at the time as the most forcible argument that they brought forward.  But when they drew their line, I was surprised to find that they had included two hundred and fifty miles of the country beyond this natural division, which they said was an interminable barrier to any political connexion beyond one side and the other.  The measure just passed takes in some three or four hundred miles east beyond the Sierra Nevada, running from the north to the south; and the Chairman of that Committee urges as the reason why he takes it in that it possesses some valuable lands for agricultural purposes; at the same time he states that it is impossible for any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>428</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>427</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>When this subject was up in Committee of the Whole, I had the honor of introducing an amendment taking in that line as the true boundary of this State.  But we were told by men, who probably knew something of the political movements of the country in the United States, that they wanted the people of California to include the whole territory, in order to silence the agitating question of slavery, which is now almost rending this Union asunder.  That was the argument maintained here; and being a young man, sir, not so well versed in the political movements at Washington as some other gentlemen, I inserted a proviso including that country, but leaving it to Congress either to take the whole if it should settle the question of slavery, or adopt that fixed upon the Sierra Nevada in the first instance.  I am willing now, sir, to include the entire territory, but only upon that ground.  The country west of the Sierra Nevada contains an area of land double that of any other State in the Union, and I think if the people of the United States would be satisfied with that, we certainly ought to be.  I think, sir, that under the present excited state of the Union in respect to the subject of slavery, if we can settle that matter, and create a harmonious feeling in Congress and throughout the Union, we ought to do it; but if Congress should not think proper to adopt it--if we have mistaken their feelings on this subject, and they have not sent their emissaries here to proclaim such doctrines, then let us settle the question ourselves, for such territory as we intend shall constitute our State.  But take a line marked by Nature--one that you can extend your laws over; that you can hold both social and political union with; and if this question of a proviso is sustained, I shall certainly introduce an amendment similar in effect to that which I introduced in Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  The question I presume before the House is simply upon the reconsideration.  I do not desire to discuss the merits of the different propositions any more than is absolutely necessary, and I shall endeavor to make but few observations.  I am glad, sir, that although we are fighting against each other, as we were before, for the mode of attaining the object, yet we are now fighting together for a reconsideration--though we entertain different conclusions.  In my opinion the most distant line is less objectionable than the one adopted by the House this evening.  The argument of the gentleman himself (Mr. Hastings) against including the entire territory east of the Sierra Nevada will apply with almost equal force to the very boundary line contained in his proposition.  The great argument which he has presented is the immense extent of territory.  I put it back upon him, and it places his proposition directly in the position of that which he assails.  What benefit does that line afford us?  None, sir; every gentleman upon this floor who is acquainted with that country asserts that it is a perfect barren waste.  The argument of the gentleman himself, sir, when he introduced his report as chairman of the Committee, of the total division that must exist between that portion to the east of the Sierra Nevada and to the west of it, and the utter impracticability of holding communication with it during a great portion of the year, is another strong reason why that line should not be adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>My object in sustaining and voting for this reconsideration is, that we shall, if we fix upon a permanent boundary line, as I desire, fix it as near as practicable to the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, so that all those objections which can be urged against a useless extent of territory can be removed when our constitution is presented to Congress.  I think, sir, that whatever boundary we agree to--let us fix it where we may, we should carry it, not by one or two votes, but by a majority which will carry with it all the influence that can be produced by unanimity of opinion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I wish to notice some few remarks made by my colleague from Sacramento, (Mr. Sherwood.)  The whole question is narrowed down to this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>429</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>428</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES moved the previous question, which was sustained.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The main question being on the motion of Mr. McDougal to reconsider the vote on the engrossment of the article on the boundary, it was taken and decided in the affirmative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Carrillo, Covarrubias, Crosby, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Hanks, Hobson, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippincott, McCarver, McDougal, Pedrorena, Pico, Rodriguez, Reid, Stearns, Tefft, Vallejo.--24.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Botts, Gilbert, Gwin, Hastings, Larkin, Moore, Norton, Ord, Price, Sherwood, Shannon, Steuart, Walker, Wozencraft, President--16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>So the vote on the engrossment was reconsidered; and on motion, the proposition itself (being the substitute offered by Mr. Hastings) was reconsidered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  Having got back to where we started some time ago, I desire, Mr. President, to give my views in favor of the plan as reported by the Committee of the Whole.  I do not intend, sir, to blink this question at all.  I am in favor of the plan adopted in Committee of the Whole, because it is my honest conviction that it is the only plan that will secure our immediate admission as a State.  I thank the gentleman from San Luis Obispo (Mr. Tefft) for stating the fact, which I was not aware of before, in regard to the admission of Wisconsin into the Union.  He showed conclusively that this principle of representing every portion of the people included within the limits of the State, could not be maintained; and that it was no act of usurpation to extend this Government over the people of the Salt Lake; that the principle is not so regarded by Congress, or by the States of this Confederacy.  It was a case in point, where a portion of the people of Wisconsin were not only not represented, but they entered their protest against the constitution that was formed without their having a voice in its formation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>When this subject was up for discussion in Committee of the Whole, I referred to another State that was admitted under circumstances not similar to our own--under the proposed boundary of the Committee--but much stronger; the State of Michigan.  If you look at the head of their Constitution you will see that it commences "We, the people of the Territory of Michigan," &amp;c., "do by our delegates in Convention assembled, mutually agree to form ourselves into a free and independent State, by the style and title of the State of Michigan, and do ordain and establish the following Constitution for the government of the same."  Yet there was a large portion of the population who not only took no part in the formation of that constitution, but actually protested against it.  Nevertheless, it was adopted by the majority; the State was admitted, and they were as much bound to obey that constitution as those who had taken part in its formation.  It was a constitution formed by a political party.  So much for this bugbear in regard to the settlements on the Salt Lake.  Suppose these people are not represented <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>430</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>429</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I was on the American river near Cullumna when the first portion of the American emigration came in, and not one of them had heard of this Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  Not one-half of that population knew of this Convention, and still we are forcing this government upon them, and upon the thousands and tens of thousands who have come in since that election.  What are we to do in regard to them?  Gentlemen talk about the enormous expense of this government.  Do they expect that we are going to send beyond the Sierra Nevada our officers, and establish our courts there?  When they are ready to assume the burdens of government, and apply for representation, they can get it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN continued his argument on the different points presented in the proposition before the House, on the same grounds as in Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL wished to explain why he objected to the boundary reported from the Committee of the Whole.  He objected to the proviso which referred the subject back from Congress to the Legislature.  It would keep California out of a representation in Congress for some time.  He desired to propose a boundary the same as that of the Committee of the Whole, but with this difference, that if Congress should not adopt it, then to have a positive line which should be adopted immediately by the action of Congress alone; and upon that, to rest our admission as a State.  He gave notice of this amendment to the House, and would offer it at the proper time.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  I regret exceedingly that this question has been reconsidered.  I was satisfied with the boundary as it passed the House; and I cannot but look upon this reconsideration as unfortunate, particularly when I consider the debate that it has opened.  And, sir, if it were in my power, I would blot from the pages of the report that has been written down of the proceedings of this Convention, all allusion to that agitating question which has so inappropriately been brought up in this discussion--a question which might have been permitted to exercise its due influence upon the minds of the members out of doors, but which I had hoped would never have been brought up in this hall.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I desire, Mr. President, to say a few words in regard to the manner in which I shall vote on this boundary question, and give the reasons that dictate the course which I intend to pursue.  Sir, one of the first reasons that controlled my mind upon this subject, was the fact that I believed, by extending our boundary to the greatest limit which has been here proposed, that we would do a manifest act of injustice to the South.  I am not a Southern man; I am from New Jersey--one of the middle States; I do not belong to the class of canting abolitionists, nor to the hot-brained slaveholders of the South; and I believe I have a right to speak and can speak on this subject boldly and without prejudice.  Now, sir, our desire is to become a State of the Union; it is the first object that we wish to accomplish; and we want to accomplish it in the shortest possible time.  But by the adoption of this extreme limit, we totally defeat that object.  We do a wrong to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>431</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>430</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the House then adjourned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>TUESDAY, OCTOBER 9, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  Prayer by Padre Ramirez.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The journal of yesterday was read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES submitted the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:, That in the opinion of this Convention, it will be practically impossible to survey and sell to private purchasers the public lands in California.  That the comparatively small space valuable for mining purposes would inevitably fall into the hands of a few speculators, and the vast body of the mining population would either be compelled to cease their labors, or violate a right and a monopoly which would have neither force nor opinion to protect them.  That the Congress of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>432</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>431</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER said he offered a resolution some days since on the same subject.  He hoped if any proposition was to be considered now, that his would be taken up, as it had the preference.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK objected to both the resolutions of the gentleman from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones) and the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Steuart,) and under the rule they were laid over.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the consideration of the report of the Committee of the Whole on the boundary was resumed; the proposition before the House being the substitute proposed by Mr. Hastings for the report of the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS moved the previous question, which was sustained; and the question being taken on the substitute of Mr. Hastings, it was rejected, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Crosby, Dent, Hill, Hoppe, Hastings, Larkin, McCarver, Ord, Price, Reid, Sutter, Steuart, Walker, President--17.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Carrillo, Covarrubias, De la Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hobson, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippincott, Moore, McDougal, Norton, Pedrorena, Pico, Rodriguez, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Tefft, Vallejo, and Wozencraft--27.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON then submitted the following substitute for the report of the Committee of the Whole, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That the boundary of the State of California be the following: commencing at the point where the 120th degree of west longitude, as laid down on the official map of John Charles Fremont, drawn by Charles Preuss by order of the United States Senate, intersects the 42d degree of north latitude (forming the southern boundary of the territory of Oregon); thence following said 120th meridian southerly to its intersection with the 38th degree of north latitude; thence in a southeasterly direction to the point where the 35th degree of north latitude crosses the river Colorado; thence southerly following high water mark on the east bank of said river, to the boundary line established by the late treaty between the United States and Mexico, dated at Queretaro, May 30th, 1848; thence westerly along and upon said line to the Pacific ocean; thence following the course of said <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>433</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>432</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>433</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Shannon's substitute, and it was decided in the negative, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Crosby, Dent, Ellis, Hanks, Hill, Larkin, McCarver, Ord, Price, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Steuart, Walker, President--19.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS--Messrs. Carrillo, Covarruvias, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippitt, Lippincott, McDougal, Norton, Pedrorena, Pico, Rodriguez, Sherwood, Stearns, Tefft, Vallejo, Wozencraft--25.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  I beg leave to offer a few remarks on this boundary question before it is finally submitted to the vote of the House; the subject, however, has been so fully debated both in Committee of the Whole and in the House, that it is hardly necessary at the present moment to enter into any very detailed discussion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After listening with attention to the various remarks of gentlemen on this floor my opinion is still decidedly in favor of the boundary reported by the Committee of the Whole:  <HI REND="italics">i.e</HI>
196.sgm:<P>In the first place, we are assembled here to form a constitution for California, as she is recognized in the treaty of cession, in the official papers and despatches of our own Government, in the maps and memoirs published by order of the Congress of the United States, and in the maps and records of the Spanish and Mexican governments.  Such, in my opinion, is the California for which we are now called upon to form a constitution.  It is not for a mere corner or piece of this territory for which we are now organizing a government; nor for that little strip of country west of the snowy range; nor the more extensive territory west of the great desert or of the Salt Lake; but for California, as she was ceded to us by Mexico, and as she is recognized and marked out in the official acts of the Government of the United States.  Such is the purpose for which our constituents sent us here, and we have no right to divide up the country, and to throw away such portion of it as, in our individual opinions, may be worthless in itself, or inconvenient to include within the limits of the new State.  But while we organize a State Government for California, as she now is, we may, with propiety, provide in our constitution for forming (with the consent of Congress) a more limited boundary on the east, whenever the people, through their representatives in the State legislature, shall ask for such line of boundary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In the second place, to form a constitution for California as she now is, without division or change, will facilitate the admission of the new State into the Union.  It is a well known fact that at the last session of Congress the attempts to form a territorial government for a part of California received very little favor or support from any party; both the ultra free-soil men of the North and the pro-slavery men of the South voted against such division; while, on the other hand, the various projects for organizing a government for California, without division or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>435</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>434</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The bitter feelings engendered by the discussion of this slavery question with respect to the territory acquired of Mexico, have, as is well known, almost sapped the foundations of the Union.  The blind enthusiasm and feverish excitement of the North have been brought in conflict with the heated fancy and irrascible honor of the South, and the very pillars of the capitol have been shaken by the contest.  Every attempt at arrangement and compromise has only tended to widen the breach.  The States east of the Rocky Mountains cannot settle this question; the contending parties have advanced too far to recede.  All look to us to do for them what they cannot do for themselves; to hold out the olive branch of peace, to satisfy the sentiment and honor of both parties, and to enable both to retire with credit from the field.  We in California <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>436</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>435</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:, however, can give them a government.  Under the constitution which we are now forming, that portion of country can be organized into counties and judicial districts, so as to secure the life and property of individuals.  Large numbers of people annually cross that territory in order to reach the <HI REND="italics">El Dorada</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Let us now look for a moment at the various objections which have been urged against the boundary as reported by the Committee of the Whole.  In the first place, it is said that this boundary includes too large an extent of country.  To this it is replied, that the Legislature, as soon as it shall deem proper, can cede to the General Government any portion of this territory, and contract our boundary within limits as narrow as it may desire.  In the second place, it is urged that we should, in our constitution, fix a definite boundary so as to leave nothing to the discretion of Congress and the State Legislature.  This would be well if we knew precisely where to draw this boundary line, and if there was no extraneous questions calculated to impede our admission into the Union as a State formed out of only a <HI REND="italics">portion</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Again, it is urged that as the people east of the snowy mountains are not represented in this Convention we have no right to include them within the limits of the State.  This objection has been answered by a reference to numerous instances in the older States, where new settlements, not included within any organized district or county, have had no voice in State Conventions or legislative bodies.  If there had been time for delegates to come from the great Salt Lake, no one would have objected to their taking seats in this body; and the fact that any district, or part of a district, or new settlement, not within any organized district, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>437</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>436</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:is unrepresented here, can form no serious objection to including such district or settlement within the boundaries of the State.  Suppose no delegate had appeared in this Convention from one of the central districts of California, would that be any reason why the boundaries of the State should be so drawn as to exclude that district?  The Constitution formed by this body can have no legal force till approved by the people; but when ratified by a majority of the legal voters, it will be binding upon the whole.  No one will pretend for a moment that a majority of the people of California are not represented in this Convention, and the new settlers east of the snowy mountains have no more reason to complain of a want of representation here, than the great mass of emigrants who have entered the country since the election of the 1st of August.  If they do not like our constitution they can vote against it, when it shall be submitted to them for ratification; and if they do not wish to be included in the State they can ask for a separation.  But no such objection will be made; nor will such a separation be asked for.  What they wish, and what they have already asked for, is a <HI REND="italics">government</HI>
196.sgm:<P>One more remark and I have done.  It has been charged by one of the gentlemen who speaks against the report of the Committee, that this boundary proposition has been gotten up for political purposes; that it is intended to relieve the present general administration from the embarrassments of the slavery question.  Nay further, that its very terms were dictated to this Convention by political emissaries of General Taylor, and that it was carried through the Committee of the Whole by the direct interference and "log-rolling" of such government emmissaries, now in the lobby of this House.  Such charges are scarcely worthy of notice, and those who make them only lower themselves in the estimation of every respectable member of this body.  The gentleman who first offered this article on the boundary, (Mr. Gwin,) can hardly be charged with being an emissary of an administration to which he is politically opposed, and the amendment submitted by myself, and accepted by that gentleman, was written by me at this table after he had offered his proposition, and without one word of consultation either with him or any other person, either in or out of this House.  I offered it on my own responsibility, without knowing or wishing to know what were the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>438</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>437</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL then offered the following substitute, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The boundary of the State of California shall include all the tract of country from or near the 107th degree of longitude west from Greenwich to the Pacific coast, and from the 32d to the 42d degree of north latitude, known as the Territory of California; also the harbors, islands, and bays adjacent, and along the Pacific coast; also to extend three English miles into said Pacific ocean, and along the coast thereof, from the 32d to the 42d degree of latitude north; but if Congress should not grant or adopt the boundary line herein set forth, then the boundary shall be as follows, viz: Commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d degree of north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude west from Greenwich, and running south on the line of said 120th degree of west longitude until it intersects the 39th degree of north latitude; thence running in a straight line in a southeasterly direction to the river Colorado, where the 35th degree of north latitude intersects said river; thence down the river in the middle of the channel thereof to the boundary line between the United States and Mexico, as is now being established under the treaty exchanged and ratified at Queretaro, May 30th, 1848; thence running west and along the boundary line to the Pacific ocean and extending therein three English miles; thence running in a northwesterly direction and following the direction of the Pacific coast to the 42d degree of north latitude; thence on the line of said 42d degree of north latitude to the place of beginning; also, all the islands, harbors, and bays along and adjacent to the Pacific coast.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS said that inasmuch as the report of the Committee of the Whole reserved a vote to the Legislature of California, and the plan of the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. McDougal,) left the final decision to Congress alone, he thought the original proposition, objectionable as it was, was not so objectionable as that, because it left some power to the people of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS suggested a division of the two questions--the original proposition as offered by the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. Gwin,) and the proviso of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Halleck.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I do not wish to discuss this question.  The disposition manifested by this House warns me that any attempt of mine could add nothing to the arguments of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts.)  I regret, sir, as much as any man, that matters have been introduced in this discussion, which I had hoped would have been kept from it--especially that the gentleman from Sacramento (Mr. Sherwood) should have led off the debate, by giving his views as to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>439</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>438</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I am sure the gentleman who last took his seat has not understood the views which I expressed to the House.  If he understood me as attempting to draw a line in this country between different classes of men as to the political views that they entertained in the United States, or as attempting to get up any division here upon the platform that divides the people of the United States, he is entirely mistaken.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I will do the gentleman the justice to say that I believe no man entertains purer feelings than he does.  I only object to his views.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I think the House, and every Southern gentleman will bear me witness that I attempted to throw no firebrand into the Halls of Congress; I attempted to get up no question here between the North and South; but it was to avoid in Congress what the gentleman objects to here--the discussion of this question, that I urged the views which I have presented to the House.  The gentlemen said that if it had been a question here between the people from Louisiana, Kentucky and Tennessee, against the North, we might have had a different result.  I care not if the South form the majority here.  Upon this question of slavery, I ask the gentleman if North and South were not all in favor of excluding slavery here?  The gentleman intimates that if it had been made a question, he, as a Southern man, would have stood out against the Wilmot proviso.  I object, sir, to any application of that argument to me.  I have made no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>440</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>439</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Should the whole boundary proposed be adopted, it will be time enough, when the people beyond the Sierra Nevada are able to bear the expenses of government, and ask for a division, to cut them off.  Can it be said that Southern men, who regard the rights of the States to establish their own institutions, will object to the exclusion of slavery within our established limits!  Mr. Calhoun cannot object to this question being settled by the people of the new State.  If he does, it will be in conflict with his declared opinions.  There can, therefore, be no objection; the South will be glad to have this question settled without discussion; they know they are weaker in numbers than the North.  I, for one, wish to avoid any division on this agitating question.  The feeling that exists in the Northern breast cannot be driven out.  The South admit, themselves, that slavery is an evil; but entailed upon them, and difficult to be got rid of  The feeling of every man, either North or South, is opposed to slavery of all kinds; it is a feeling instinctive in the human breast.  It was to break the chains of slavery that the American Revolution broke out; to prevent unjust taxation, that the North and South united in that revolution.  But this institution exists among the people of the South, and I am willing that they should sustain their own institutions; and let slavery be abolished, State by State, according to the supreme and sovereign power of the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  With the consent of the House, Mr. President, I will tell you an anecdote.  I was at a little party last night, and I met there a certain gentleman--a Northern gentleman; and after he had been excited by wine, (you know the old proverb-- <HI REND="italics">in vino est veritas</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  The gentleman does not state my argument correctly.  I go for each State settling this question and all other questions for itself.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>441</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>440</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Whatever interpretation the gentleman may give to his own argument, he clearly maintains the doctrine of the Wilmot proviso.  He insists that we should settle this question by extending our boundary over a people whose consent he does not ask.  Yes, sir, against their will if necessary; and what more does the Wilmot proviso?  Now, sir, as a Californian, not as a representative of North or South, but as a free and independent Californian, I denounce that doctrine.  I will meet it and denounce it wherever it exists.  North or South, sir, I care not whence it comes, I shall fight against it mentally and physically.  What, sir!  That the people of this territory are to go to New York and not only ask them for a constitution, but ask them if they may be permitted to include or exclude slavery!  Such a doctrine need not be broached here.  It will not be listened to.  The people of California are free and independent; they have a right to form their own government; yet the gentlemen tells us that we are bought body and soul, and must be ruled by the North; that we must form just such a constitution as they like.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I denied any such doctrine; but I stated what I believed to be the feeling in the North.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  My remarks apply to what the gentleman says is the Northern doctrine.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention took a recess till 3 o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 3 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the substitute proposed by Mr. McDougal, was before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS moved a division of the question so that the vote should first be taken on the first clause of the proposition, and it was so ordered.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL withdrew the first clause of his amendment, confining it exclusively to the boundary last described therein, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The boundary of California shall be as follows, viz: Commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d degree of north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude west from Greenwich, and running south on the line of said 120th degree of west longitude until it intersects the 39th degree of north latitude; thence running in a straight line in a southeasterly direction to the river Colorado at a point where the 35th degree of north latitude intersects said river; thence down and along the middle of the channel of said river to the boundary line as is now being established under the treaty with Mexico, exchanged and ratified at Queretaro on the 30th day of May, 1848; thence along said boundary line to the Pacific ocean, and extending therein three English miles; thence running in an northwesterly direction and following the direction of the Pacific coast to the 42d degree of north latitude; thence on a line of said 42d degree of north latitude to the place of beginning; also all the islands, harbors, and bays along and adjacent to the Pacific coast.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS moved the previous question, which was sustained.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The vote was then taken, and the amendment lost as follows, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Crosby, Dent, Ellis, Hill, Hoppe, Hastings, Larkin, McCarver, McDougal, Ord, Price, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Steuart, Vermeule, Walker, President.--22.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Carrillo, Covarrubias, De La Guerra, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hobson, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippincott, Moore, Norton, Pedrorena, Pico, Rodriguez, Sherwood, Stearns, Tefft, Vallejo, Wozencraft.--24.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the adoption of the report of the Committee of the Whole, a division of the question was moved in order that the vote might be taken on the main proposition and on the proviso separately.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided that the question was divisible.</P>
196.sgm:<P>From this decision Mr. TEFFT appealed, and the decision of the Chair was reversed by the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the report of the Committee concurred in, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Carrillo, Covarrubias, De La Guerra, Dominguez, Dimmick, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Halleck, Hanks, Hobson, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippincott, Moore, Norton, Pedrorena, Pico, Rodriguez, Sherwood, Stearns, Tefft, Vallejo, Wozencraft--29.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>442</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>441</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Crosby, Dent, Ellis, Hill, Hoppe, Hastings, Larkin, McCarver, McDougal, Ord, Price, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Steuart, Vermeule, Walker, President--22.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Upon the announcement of this vote, several members rose to their feet under much excitement, and great confusion ensued.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I now move we adjourn <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE.  I give notice that I will file a protest against this vote.  Rest assured that the thirty-nine thousand emigrants coming across the Sierra Nevada, will never sanction this constitution if you include the Mormons.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SNYDER.  Your constitution is gone!  Your constitution is gone!</P>
196.sgm:<P>Cries of "order!" "order!" from all from all parts of the house, and "the constitution is lost!"  I will sign it under a protest!</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I insist upon my motion to adjourn <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON.  There is a resoulution now before the House fixing the time of adjournment.  It must first be rescinded.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I call for the yeas and nays on the motion to adjourn <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE.  I hope the motion will prevail, in order to give a safety-valve operation to this excitement.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I appeal to my colleague to withdraw his motion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  The question is on the adjournment; I call for the question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Cries of "the question!" "the question!" from all parts of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SNYDER.  I shall vote against the House adjourning before the business before us is completed.  I ask you one question.  Have you completed the business that the people of California sent you here to perform?  If you have not, can you go back to your constituents and say you have discharged your duty?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I withdraw the motion to adjourn <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The Chair having partially succeeded in restoring order, on motion, the resolution adopted on Saturday, to adjourn <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 10, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In Convention.  Prayer by the Rev. Mr. Willey.  Journal of yesterday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I am now going to recur, Mr. President, to a subject which has created a great deal of excitement among members of this House.  I allude to the boundary question, upon which the vote was last night taken.  I have not yet spoken upon it, and I trust I will be indulged in a few remarks.  There is, sir, among members of this House, a great difference of opinion, and I believe an honest difference of opinion, in regard to the policy which we should adopt in determining this question; but I think that difference may be narrowed down to a very small point.  A part of this House are anxious to create an absolute, definite, and determinate boundary for the State of California; another part are anxious to avoid the difficulty which they foresee may, and in all probability will, arise in the Congress of the United States on the settlement of this question.  Both parties admit that it is our policy to avoid raising any question in Congress, which may endanger or delay our admission into the Union; and both agree that if we can be admitted with the boundary of the Sierra Nevada--which is conceded to be the natural boundary of the State--that it would be our best policy.  I am willing for one to admit this proposition; but here comes the point of difference.  Upon the one side, we are told that we must take this line absolutely and determinately, and make no provision for any difficulty in Congress; shape our action with no reference to the action of Congress; but if we cannot be admitted without difficulty, then we must defy the Government of the United States, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>443</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>It has been said by a gentleman here--I don't know to what wing he belongs--that we are favoring the admission of slavery here.  How are we doing it?  By creating difficulties, says this gentleman, which will prevent our admission by Congress as a State into the Union, for some two or three years to come, and thereby give to the South a chance, while we are a territory, to bring in their slaves.  How is it then that this proposition is supported by the North as well as the South?  The argument is not worthy of consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question resolves itself to this, and I wish to place it in its true position before members of this House.  If we can get in at all with the smaller line--the Sierra Nevada line--we can get in under this proposition.  We tell the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>444</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>But if Congress does not refuse to admit us with the Sierra Nevada line; if they do contend that we cannot divide the territory; if they compel us to come in with the large boundary, where are the great and insuperable difficulties which will fall upon the inhabitants on the other side of the limited line.  We could within one or two years, or even six months, divide them off, and put them into a separate State.  If gentlemen see fit to maintain the doctrine that we should not take any means of avoiding the difficulty, but hold ourselves as a sovereign and independent State, I am willing to meet them before the people of California on that question.  The compromise which I propose is in the following words:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The boundary of the State of California shall be as follows:  Commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d degree of north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude west from Greenwich, and running south on the line of said 120th degree of west longitude until it intersects the 39th degree of north latitude; thence running in a straight line in a southeasterly direction to the river Colorado at a point where it intersects the 35th degree of north latitude; thence down the middle of the channel of said river to the boundary line between the United States and Mexico, as established by the treaty of May 30, 1848; thence running west and along said boundary line to the Pacific ocean and extending therein three English miles; thence running in a northerly direction and following the direction of the Pacific coast to the 42d degree of north latitude; thence on the line of said 42d degree of north latitude to the place of beginning; also all the islands, harbors, and bays along and adjacent the Pacific coast.</P>
196.sgm:<P>But if Congress should refuse to admit the State of California with the above boundary, then the boundary shall be as follows:  Beginning at the point on the Pacific ocean south of San Diego to be established by the commissioners of the United States and Mexico, appointed under treaty of 30th May, 1848, for running the boundary line between the territories of the United States and those of Mexico, and thence running in an easterly direction on the line fixed by said commissioners as the boundary to the Territory of New Mexico; thence northerly on the boundary line between New Mexico and the territory of the United States prevoous to the year 1846, and California as laid down on the "Map of Oregon and Upper California, from the surveys of John Charles Fremont, and other authorities, drawn by Charles Preuss under the order of the Senate of the United States, Washington city, 1848," to the 42d degree of north latitude; thence due west on the boundary line between Oregon and California to the Pacific ocean; thence southerly along the coast of the Pacific ocean, including the islands and bays belonging to California, to the place of beginning.  The said boundary to be subject to the approval of the Legislature of the State of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  It will be borne in mind by this House that the same identical proposition was submitted by me to the House several days ago, but there was no action taken upon it.  The House did extend the courtesy to me so far as to say it might be read, but they went no further.  I believe now, as I then did, that it would have been a peace-maker.  I believed it would receive a more unanimous vote than any proposition which has been presented.  The gentleman from San Joaquin claims the paternity of it.  I have no objection, if the House will adopt it; but certainly this is my proposition.  I for one, sir, am not willing to take any course which may tend to dissolve this confederacy.  I consider that a clause, leaving an alternative, is absolutely necessary in order to avoid that difficulty; but I must admit that I prefer, if we can obtain it, the line marked out by nature.  I am pleased to see this proposition brought up, because I think it will be the means of a compromise.  I now move the suspension of the 30th rule, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>445</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR decided that it was not competent, under the rules, to reconsider again a vote or subject that had been once reconsidered.  There had been a vote taken here by which a certain boundary was fixed, and that vote was reconsidered, and it would be utterly impossible to reconsider it a second time if the same result had prevailed; but upon that reconsideration that vote was entirely destroyed, and another vote was given, which had never been reconsidered, and which therefore it was competent for the House to reconsider.  This was a new subject and a new vote; the former reconsideration did not apply to it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Upon this decision a long discussion, on parliamentary usages, ensued.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that inasmuch as there was considerable difference of opinion on this subject, the shortest way of testing the sense of the House would be an appeal from the decision of the Chair.  Any member who objected to that decision was at liberty to take an appeal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Suppose it were possible to throw some obstacle in the way of this reconsideration, is there any gentleman who desires to do it?  What did we adjourn for yesterday afternoon?  That we might coolly and dispassionately reflect upon this subject, and come to a decision which would be harmonious and statisfactory.  Now, when an amicable proposition comes forward from the side of the majority, I had hoped that gentlemen here would meet it in the same amicable spirit, and endeavor to establish that good feeling that once existed, and that desire that always ought to prevail among the members of this body, to secure for this constitution such a vote as would give it an influence that it could not otherwise possess.  When that is the object and may be the effect of such a reconsideration, I ask is any gentleman willing to place any obstacle in the way.  I believe the Chair is correct in his decision; but I appeal to gentlemen not to raise any excited feeling upon this subject by attempting to thwart this proposition for amicable adjustment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I ask the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) one question.  When he advocates the reconsideration, in order that the proposition of the gentleman from San Joaquin may be brought forward, does he intend to convey the idea, that this being an amicable proposition to settle the difficulty, he will support it?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  Now, did you ever hear such a question?  I will answer the gentleman.  I am asked, sir, if I advocate the reconsideration, pledging myself to hear no debate, but to determine to support and vote for a certain proposition.  No, sir, I go for a reconsideration for no such purpose.  I go for a reconsideration to open this question again, and debate it, and compromise it if we can; to hear other gentlemen upon this floor besides the gentleman from San Joaquin, (Mr. Jones,) and to vote for any proposition that I consider the most advantageous and best calculated to secure a large vote of the people for this constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I merely asked the question in order to know what to expect from this reconsideration.  I think we have discussed this question sufficiently.  Further discussion will produce no effect upon this House.  If a new plan is brought forward and both sides of the House would determine to sustain that plan, then there is some reason for a reconsideration.  Otherwise I cannot see what is to be gained by it.  The whole subject has been before the House for some time, and fully discussed.  I do not want to bind any gentleman to any proposition; but inasmuch as it was understood here that the gentleman from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones) had moved a reconsideration, for a specific object--to settle the difficulties of this House by a new proposition--I wanted to learn whether it would settle those difficulties.  That is the avowed object of the reconsideration.  Why then go into a reconsideration, if the manifest disposition of the House shows that it can produce no such effect?  Gentlemen refuse to give any pledge.  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>446</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>That will be the great battle-field.  I confess I would greatly prefer a more restricted boundary.  We have the natural boundary to make a greater State than any in this Union--the bay of San Francisco and its tributaries.  If we had our choice we would thus shape our boundaries; but what do our brethren to the South say.  "Although we prefer a territorial government to avoid the heavy expense of a State organization, yet we prefer enduring taxation rather than separate from you, and run the risk of getting no government at all from Congress."</P>
196.sgm:<P>The line of 36&deg; 30' is a great question on the other side of the mountains.  Here it is nothing.  If any portion of our population are opposed to slavery, <HI REND="italics">per se</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I believe it is not usual to enter into a discussion of the merits of a question on a motion to reconsider.  The object of the reconsideration may be explained, but I think it is digressing to go back to the main subject and enter into another debate upon it.  I shall go for a definite boundary, and for this reason I am in favor of the reconsideration.  It is for the purpose of getting a definite boundary that I advocate this course.  The Chair, I think, is perfectly correct.  This is entirely a different vote from the one reconsidered the other day.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  I hope the motion to reconsider will prevail.  I am willing to vote for any proposition that brings our boundary this side of the Salt Lake--any proposition that will exclude the Mormons.  As to the remarks of the gentleman (Mr. Gwin) upon a Territorial Government south of 36 deg. 30 min., the people of the South do not oppose a State Government; they were only of opinion that a State Government would bear heavily upon them at this time, but they greatly prefer a State Government to having a separate organization; and they are ready and willing to assume thier proportionate share of its expenses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PEDRORENA.  I am for a State Government, and I believe such is the will of my constituents.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL.  I am authorized to say that the people of San Diego do not want a Territorial Government; they want a State Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARRILLO.  It is necessary for me to go aside a little from the question before the House, on account of the example set by other gentlemen.  It appears as well as I have been enabled to learn the substance of the discussion, that some gentleman has said that the people of the South would prefer a Territorial to a State organization.  This is a great mistake--I might almost say a falsity; and the best proof is, that they have hitherto contributed with you to form a State Government.  It has likewise been asserted that the people of the southern part of the country are in favor of slavery; this is entirely false.  They have equally as much desire as any portion of the people of California to avoid the curse of slavery.  I do not propose to discuss the question of reconsideration.  In my opinion, the proposition last adopted, that of Messrs. Gwin and Halleck, is the best, and I am opposed to the reconsideration; but should the motion prevail, I shall vote as may seem to me proper.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT.  When the question was originally taken in this House whether we should form a State or Territorial organization, certain delegates voted in favor of a Territorial Government, but not in favor of having a Territorial Government south and a State Government north.  In the present case when it is proposed to established a State Government, the interests of the two portions of the country being identical, so far as regards the form of government, I do not think there is a man in the southern districts in favor of a separate organization--that is, of a State and Territorial Government.  From the excited state of feeling manifested in this House yesterday, I am opposed to bringing up this boundary question again, without the assurance that there is now a spirit of conciliation in the House.  I am opposed to having tables knocked down as they were yesterday in this madness of excitement.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I hope the House will not forget the subject before them, the proposition of the gentleman from San Joaquin, which it appears has given rise to a discussion entirely irrelevant to the question which we are called upon to decide.  I trust a decision will be had at once, and that all further debate will be checked.  The issue is now, whether we can reconsider the vote of yesterday, under the 29th rule.  That rule states positively that the same subject cannot be reconsidered twice without unanimous consent.  The point to decide is, what is the subject.  I conceive that we have not reconsidered the subject at all as yet.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HOPPE.  I hope there may be a spirit of conciliation in this House; and certainly there is, so far as I am concerned.  I am perfectly willing to bring this question to any final vote, which I conceive will be satisfactory to the people; but I do not believe any reconciliation can be effected, or that this satisfaction can be produced, unless we have a definite boundary.  If we leave it open, it will lead to results that we would all deprecate; and gentlemen would find out these results in the halls of Congress.  I say, Mr. President, let us exclude the Mormons, whatever we do.  Their influence would be most injurious.  They would make the taxes of this State burdensome to every man in it; no citizen of California desires that we shall have any social or political connexion with them.  The question was then taken, and the motion to reconsider adopted by ayes 32, noes 13.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE.  In a spirit of compromise, and with the hope that the resolution which I am about to offer to the House, may bring about the happy result of enabling the Convention to act upon this subject without any heartburning, I offer the following resolution, leaving the subject of the boundary to the people themselves.  I believe it will be the most satisfactory course, and the best calculated to avoid that excitement which may jeopard the ratification of this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  In moving the reconsideration of the vote on this question' my colleague (Mr. Jones) gave notice to the House that he did so for the purpose of submitting a certain proposition.  He gave notice of that proposition at the time.  I believe, in all courtesy, that it has the precedence, and should be considered first.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I had the particular good fortune, sir, to obtain the floor this morning before any other member of the Convention.  I call it a particular good fortune, for I have no doubt if any member had known that I wished to obtain the floor, there would have been some difficulty in getting it.  I made a motion, sir, to reconsider the last vote of the House on this subject; and I gave notice that if the reconsideration prevailed, I would offer the proposition which I hold in my hand.  It was for that purpose that I moved the reconsideration; and after the motion prevailed, a gentleman jumps up with another proposition, and claims that it shall be considered.  I can only say, in relation to that proposition, that whether the people establish the one line or the other, the whole object of this compromise is defeated; because, if this Territory is confined absolutely to one limit or the other, then we avoid no difficulty that may present itself in the Halls of Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I was afraid, Mr. President, that we would have several very important but minor questions to settle--minor to the great question under consideration.  A little while ago there was a dispute as to the paternity of the resolution offered by the gentleman from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones.)  This I thought the House would have to sit in judgment upon as Solon did between the two mothers.  Now, sir, I am afraid another question will arise as to whether the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Price,) or the gentleman from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones,) has the right to offer the first amendment.  If that is settled, I come to the consideration of the question before the House, and it is first upon the proposition of the gentleman from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. President, I assure you that I am not insincere when I say that I came here in a spirit of compromise and conciliation.  I am not one to put my foot down upon a mark and say I will neither advance nor retrograde.  I have even been twitted here from the fact that I have more than once changed my opinions; and what I had thought to be a virtue on the part of an honorable man, to confess the fact that he has been in error, has been thrown up in my teeth as a fault.  Now, I will tell you why, with all this spirit of conciliation, I cannot vote for this proposition.  There are some things, Mr. President, that cannot be compromised.  It has been said that a principle can no more be compromised than chastity can be compromised.  I cannot therefore give my sanction to the proposed compromise.  I have maintained upon this floor, and I stand committed to this: that to institute a government, directly or indirectly, over a people, without their consent, is a violation of every principle of republicanism and justice.  Sir, I have a debate in my pocket on this question; a debate between Mr. Calhoun and Mr. Webster.  I wish I could read it.  They are both right, putting the two together; one makes out one part of the argument, and the other makes out the other part.  You arrive inevitably at the conclusion that the Constitution of the United States, according to the showing of Mr. Webster, does not extend to the people of California.  Then you have the other great mind to prove that if it does not, there is no power in the Congress of the United States to legislate upon it at all.  It is true Mr. Calhoun <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>449</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT.  I beg leave, Mr. President, to explain the reasons which will induce me to vote against the proposition of the gentleman from San Joaquin (Mr. Jones.)  I am in favor of the Sierra Nevada line, and most decidedly against the proposition to extend the boundary to the Rocky Mountains.  We have no right, sir, to extend our constitution and government over the inhabitants of the great Salt Lake, comprising some thirty or forty thousand Mormons, who have never been consulted in making this constitution--who have had no representation in this Convention.  We have no legal right to impose a government upon these people.  But I have another objection, which I do not think has attracted the attention of the House.  Suppose they should afterwards accept and ratify our constitution, and consent to come in under our State government.  I say, that even then we do not want this great desert.  It would be perfectly impracticable to carry on our government over that immense territory.  Nature herself has shut us up between the Sierra Nevada and the Pacific, and told us in strongest possible language--"thus far shalt thou go, and no further."  Consider, sir, the expense and difficulty of carrying on a government over a vast desert, where the means of communication are so limited.  The expense alone ought to be a sufficient objection, apart from every other consideration.  It should be borne in mind that when our government goes into operation we will be a new State--a State just formed, without any previous territorial organization.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The expense of putting in operation for the first time an entire judicial system, together with the various branches of our State government, must necessarily be very great, even within the smallest limit proposed, where the difficulties of communication are less formidable.  How much greater would be the expense over a vast wilderness, separated from us by snowy ridges of mountains, and hundreds of miles distant from the nearest point of civilization.  But the chief ground of my opposition to this proposed extension of boundary is, that it opens a most dangerous and exciting question in Congress.  Just so sure as we form an issue, to be tried between the two great parties of the North and South, our constitution goes by the board.  I doubt very much, if such an issue is raised there, whether we shall have our constitution adopted and ourselves admitted into the Union for years.  Now, sir, let us take this boundary of the Sierra Nevada.  Let us shut ourselves within the limit which Nature has formed for us.  Is there any issue, then, between the North and the South?  When the question of admission comes before Congress what issue can there be?  The question will be simply on the acceptance of this constitution, containing a certain and definite boundary.  It is republican in its form, and that being the case, we are entitled to admission under the provisions of the Federal Constitution,</P>
196.sgm:<P>The South has laid down the principle that the people of the State are the sole judges of what shall be its domestic institutions.  That has been the sole ground of conflict on the Wilmot proviso.  The whole South will therefore take us as we are, with that boundary.  Then how will it be with the North?  Perhaps they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>450</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Another consideration.  The North, although she may express some dissatisfaction, will not refuse to accept us when it comes to the point.  We give her two Senators from a non-slaveholding State.  That addition turns the scale in the Senate of the United States.  It gives her the command of the whole question hereafter.  The existence of slavery in the vast desert east of the Sierra Nevada is a mere abstract question.  A great part of the territory south of 36&deg; 30' is a desert that will never be inhabited by an American population.  It will never, in reality, be a part of the State.  But suppose it should be inhabited to some limited extent--suppose, even, that it should become a densely populated country, I ask you whether the North, by accepting our constitution with this boundary, does not get her two additional Senators?  What more does she want?</P>
196.sgm:<P>And what will the South say?  Certainly the South will not commit an act so suicidal as to refuse its assent to this Constitution, because we have not cut off all south of 36&deg; 30'.  There is not a member on this floor, who believes that slavery can ever exist there.  Whatever desire the South might have to introduce slavery there, the fact that it is utterly impracticable to do so--that it can never exist in that region--is sufficient to preclude the idea.  If the Territory is divided at all, it will, in accordance with the compromise agreed to between the two great parties, be erected into a free State by the action of the people themselves.  There is no division of opinion between the northern and southern population of California on this subject.  Consequently if it becomes a separate State, it will be a free State; and instead of one, there will be two free States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>If the other boundary is adopted, let us see what would be the consequences.  It is a double proposition--a proposition with an alternative--to fix our boundary either on the Sierra Nevada, or include the whole of California, as Congress and the Legislature may hereafter determine.  I ask you, sir, if that is not making an open question of it?--throwing down the glove between the two great parties?  The very idea of such a question, not upon the adoption of the Constitution, not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>451</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>The point to which I desire particularly to call the attention of the Convention, is this.  If you adopt at once a definite boundary, affording a reasonable extent of territory, you form no issue upon which a question can arise between the North and the South--an issue which every reasonable man wishes to avoid.  But if you leave an alternative, which must necessarily open the question, you compel a conflict which must be determined in Congress before your constitution is adopted.  The South never will yield on that point.  Will the North yield?  I doubt it very much.  I admit she is more likely to yield than the South; but if she does it will be to the lesser boundary.  But this proposition of a definite boundary, does not require her to yield; and suppose you fix it at the Sierra Nevada, I ask you whether it is not far more likely that the North will yield without any condition whatever, than if you adopt a boundary with an alternative which must inevitably compel a conflict with the South?</P>
196.sgm:<P>For these reasons, Mr. President, I am opposed to the proviso of the gentleman from San Joaquin, and shall vote in favor of any proposition making the Sierra Nevada the definite boundary line.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I intended before this to have drawn the attention of the House to a certain fact, more for the purpose of obtaining information than any thing else.  It is this: that there exists a Vice Royal decree published during the existence of the old Spanish Government, previous to the independence of Mexico, establishing a line which runs through the centre of the Great Desert, being an extension of the eastern boundary line of Lower California, running northerly from the Colorado river to the 42d degree of north latitude, or to the northern boundary of Upper California.  All upon the eastern side of that line belonged to New Mexico, and was entirely under its jurisdiction; and all upon the western side belonged to and was under the jurisdiction of Upper California.  I desire to get some definite information upon that subject, because if this is a fact, we include more in the large boundary proposed, than actually belongs to Upper California, and consequently it presents an insuperable objection to the extension of that boundary line so far eastward.  I understand the document to which I refer is probably among the official archives.  I ask for some information in regard to this from Mr. Hartnell or Mr. Halleck.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Permission being granted--</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HARTNELL said: I am not aware that there exists among the archives any such document, but I have been told that there has been one seen there.  Perhaps Mr. Vallejo may be able to give the desired information.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. VALLEJO.  I have myself formerly seen in the archives of the California Government, a document issued in the time of the Spanish Government, dated 1781, in which the boundary from the 32d deg. 30 min. to the 42d deg. 30 min. of north latitude divides the Great Desert, leaving one-half to the jurisdiction of New Mexico, and the other half to Upper California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. COVARRUBIAS.  I am of opinion that the gentleman (Mr. Vallejo) is mistaken in asserting that from the 32d deg. 30 min. to the 42d deg. 30 min. of north latitude, from the point at which that line strikes the Colorado river, belonged to New Mexico on the one side, and to California on the other.  It is well known that the boundary of New Mexico never went up to the 42d deg. 30 min. of north latitude.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VALLEJO.  I do not say that this line was ever formally laid down by official surveys, but that such a line did exist, dividing the Great Desert in two, is, I think, sufficiently established by the document to which I refer.  Col. Fremont, in his map, did not take in the exact boundary of California.  I suppose his intention was, as it was not known whether the United States would take in New Mexico or not, and as all were determined to take in California, that the boundaries of California should include as much as possible.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. FOSTER.  In relation to the line, as laid down in Fremont's map of California--that map embraces in California a part of New Mexico.  The pueblo of Zunia, a village of civilized Indians, subject for a hundred and fifty years to New Mexico, is a hundred and fifty miles within the territory of California, according to the western line of New Mexico as laid down in Fremont's map.  The Navejoe, Moquis, Apaches, and Utahs, have their treaty regulations with New Mexico, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>453</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  In respect to that, the gentleman is perfectly right.  Fremont's map includes, in my opinion, a portion of what properly belongs to New Mexico.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  We are coming to it at last.  I now begin to see that this reconsideration was not entirely in vain.  It is stated that this old line is a judicial line; what is a judicial line?  Is it not a dividing line between two distinct counties or provinces?  What do you call this line but the dividing line where the different laws of two distinct provinces meet?</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK.  One word on that point.  At that time there was no difference as to the laws.  These provinces were all included under the Government of Mexico, and were under the same laws; but it was ordered by the government that a part should be within the jurisdiction of New Mexico and a part within the jurisdiction of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  Very well; this line was a judicial line, between two distinct countries, territories, or provinces.  What is it but a boundary line between the two provinces?  This view is sustained by the facts stated by the gentleman from Los Angeles (Mr. Foster.)  Another very important fact that has come to light is this: that east of the Colorado, Upper California has not exercised jurisdiction; that the jurisdiction there has been exercised by Sonora for a certain distance north, or jointly by Sonora and New Mexico.  As to this line starting from the 32d degree of north latitude, it is well known that the boundary line between Upper and Lower California has been disputed, and that it was never distinctly determined.  Sometimes it was the 32d degree, and at others a lower line, and now it is the line established by the treaty.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARRILLO.  I recollect perfectly well having seen a document among the archives of the government at Los Angeles, when I was alcalde of that place, and I examined it with great care, and I have no doubt myself than an order was sent from the Spanish Government in 1781, making this line from 32 or 32 1/2 degrees north latitude to 42, cutting the Great Desert in two, and that the territory on the eastern side was thus divided from the territory on the western side.  Part of the territory on the eastern side belonged to New Mexico, and part to Sonora.  The whole territory on the western side belonged to California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. FOSTER.  It appears to me that we can reconcile this difficulty.  In order to do so, I would propose to run the line on the 113th parallel of longitude, due north to the 42d degree.  That will remove the difficulty of the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts,) in regard to admitting the settlements east of that line.  It is utterly unfit for agricultural, grazing, or other purposes, and there is no white person living in that country. I suggest it as a compromise.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL stated that he had drawn up a resolution to that effect, which he desired to offer to the House, and of which he now gave notice.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  We can now base the boundary upon facts.  It is narrowed down in its eastern limit to the line recognized by the Spanish Government.  Between that line and any line that may be agreed upon west, I leave the matter.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  There is no member of this House, Mr. President, who is more willing to accept any proposition that we can in principle accept to compromise this vexed question, than myself.  But, sir, here is a piece of news; new light upon the subject.  It is true we have certain authorized maps--authorized by the Congress of the United States--certain conventions and agreements drawn up <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>454</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. President, there are certain propositions laid before this House which I must deny.  The issue is, that the Congress of the United States have no right to establish the boundary that we propose:  and rather than avoid the difficulty, that we should refuse to become one of the United States.  That issue I am ready to take up.  Sir, there is a great principle for which the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) contends upon this floor.  I suppose that gentleman, as a man of sense, is ready to admit that a great principle will apply to a small matter as well as to a large matter.  He says that that great principle is about to be violated here; that the Congress of the United States, by the ratification of this Constitution with the proposed boundary, would be forcing a government upon a people who do not want it, and who have had no part in its formation.  I suppose if that principle will hold good in reference to the Mormons, that it will hold good in reference to the population of the Trinity River.  If you take the proclamation of General Riley, and take the vote of every poll for the members of this Convention, you will find that it falls some hundreds of miles this side of the Sierra Nevada; and there are certain miners who are now digging out gold from the Sierra Nevada, who are not represented in this Convention.  This is the great principle which the gentleman does not wish to see violated; but he violates it himself by taking in parts of the country which he does not pretend are represented upon this floor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sir, I have only supported this proposition for one reason.  I profess to know something of the opinions of men in political life; I know something of the opinions of members of Congress; and when I tell you they have urged you to come in as a State of the Union, there is not one who tells you to come in as a part; they want you to come in as a whole.  I only seek to avoid the difficulty with which we are threatened.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I merely rise for the purpose of correcting two statements of the gentleman from San Joaquin, (Mr. Jones,) and if he misrepresents his constituents as much as he misrepresents history, he ought to be discarded from their service.  I say, sir, that in the treaty of peace between the United States and Mexico, Fremont's map is not mentioned at all; and the line that he puts down as the boundary between New Mexico and California, is never alluded to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I did not say it was.  I spoke of the Mexican maps used by J. C. Fremont.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  The particular question under discussion here, the boundary between Mexico and California, is not touched at all.  As to the fact that the Congress of the United States have adopted the line as laid down in Fremont's map, do you know what it amounts to?  Col. Thomas H. Benton, upon the floor of the Senate of the United States, looking directly to the valuable character of the explorations made by his son-in-law, Col. Fremont, and according to him that credit to which he is so justly entitled, with the unanimous approbation of the Senate, proposed this: that Col. Fremont's explorations and maps should be printed for the use of the Senate, and I believe it was unanimously agreed to.  The Senate ordered the printing of five thousand copies of this map of Fremont's explorations.  That is the full extent to which this is an official map; and yet we are told that the Senate adopted this line between New Mexico and California; that is, that every Senator pledged himself, and the President of the United States pledged himself, to every line upon this map, printed by order of the Senate!</P>
196.sgm:<P>After some discussion as to the order of amendments,</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE withdrew his proposition, to allow Mr. Hill to propose the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The boundary of the State of California shall be as follows:--Beginning at the point on the Pacific Ocean, south of San Diego, to be established by the Commission of the United States and Mexico, appointed under the treaty of the 20th February, 1848, for running the boundary between the territories of the United States and those of Mexico; and thence along said line, until it reaches the mouth of the Rio Gila; thence along the centre of the Rio Colorado, until it strikes the 35th degree of north latitude; thence due north, until it intersects the boundary line between Oregon and California; thence southerly along the coast of the Pacific, including all the islands and bays belonging to California, to the place of beginning.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS moved the previous question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said it was very important that every member of the House should be present to vote upon this question.  He therefore hoped the question would not be pressed at present, and moved a recess till three o'clock.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then took a recess till 3 P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 3 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that there was some doubt in regard to the question first in order.  If the original report of the Committee on the Boundary was beyond the reach of the House, then the report of the Committee of the Whole would be the primary question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES said that the proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Price) having been withdrawn, the proposition submitted by him would come next to the report of the Committee of the Whole, and that of the gentleman from San Diego (Mr. Hill) next to his.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT supposed the proper way of getting at the difficulty would be to have the House decide whether the report of the Committee on the Boundary or the report of the Committee of the Whole should be the main question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. FOSTER moved to suspend the rules, so as to enable the Convention to take up and decide upon the several propositions, without regard to the usual parliamentary order of proceeding.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR stated that the question then would be which one of the reports should be taken up for consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved to take up Mr. Jones's proposition, which was agreed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  A question of order was yesterday raised in regard to the divisibility of a question of this kind, with a proviso attached to it.  The Chair decided that it was divisible, and that the question would first fall upon the main proposition, preceding the proviso.  It is my opinion that the question should first have been taken upon the proviso.  That, I believe, when a division is made, is the parliamentary usage.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>While I am upon this subject, Mr. President, allow me to notice one of the arguments advanced against the proposition to include the whole territory.  It is urged upon this floor that it is not republican or democratic to include within the boundaries of this State the Mormons; that they have no representation in this Convention; no voice in the formation of this constitution; and that they could have none in our Legislature.  Admitting these facts, sir, I say it is still another and perhaps a greater principle of republicanism that the majority should rule; and does any gentleman here pretend to say that, if this constitution is adopted by the whole people of California west of the Sierra Nevada, they will not constitute a majority of the people of California, Mormons and all.  We are told that there are thirty thousand Mormons in the valley of the Great Salt Lake.  Now, from the best information, I do not believe that there is half that number.  But admitting that there are thirty thousand, how many voters will they have?  Five thousand voters.  If this constitution does not get more than double that number of votes, it ought not to be the constitution of California.  I think then, if gentlemen will insist upon one principle, that they ought not to forget that there are others, and that they will find this perhaps a better test of republicanism than the principle first stated.  As a test question, therefore, I would suggest that all after the words fixing a definite boundary be stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I believe every gentleman knows that I am in favor of the Sierra Nevada; but I said to-day, and mean to adhere to it, that for a compromise I would go as far as the middle of the desert.  I now rise to a question of order.  The gentleman from San Francisco (Mr. Gilbert) is out of order.  His proposition to amend by striking out the proviso is an amendment to an amendment to an amendment.  It is also out of order on another ground.  It leaves you the original proposition, (Mr. McDougal's,) which has already been voted down.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I would simply state to the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts) that I was aware that my motion was out of order, and that I only gave <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>457</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER here rose to speak, but was interrupted by calls for the question.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  If the gentleman from San Francisco is to have a privilege which I am denied upon this floor--[Cries of question! question! let us have the question!]  I protest against it as an outrage.  If you deny me any privilege, you deny the rights of my constituents.  I have never occupied the time of the House upon this question.  I deny your right to put me down in this manner.  Gentlemen have spoken twice, or three times, and I am to be debarred from the privilege of speaking once!  If the District of Sacramento is to be cut off from her proper representation in this Convention, whilst San Francisco is allowed to be heard on all occasions, I want to know it--I want the people of Sacramento to know it.  [Great confusion, and repeated calls for the question.]  I will not be insulted--my constituents shall not be insulted.  If this House is to stamp me down and allow other individuals to speak as often as they please, I shall no longer remain here.  [Mr. McCarver thereupon left the Hall.]</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I hope my colleague, Gen. McCarver, may be excused.  It is a matter of personal feeling with him ever since the sad fate of his free negro project.  The news brought down from San Francisco on that melancholy occasion has made him very sore in regard to anything coming from that district.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved a call of the House; it was ordered, and 39 members answered to their names.  The Sergeant-at-arms was furnished, by order of the President, with a list of the absentees, with directions to require their attendance forthwith; when, a quorum being present, on motion of Mr. Sherwood, further proceedings under the call were suspended.</P>
196.sgm:<P>A division of the question was moved, on Mr. Jones's proposition, so that the vote should be taken on the first and second clauses separately.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The PRESIDENT decided that the question was divisible.  From this decision an appeal was taken, and the decision of the Chair was reversed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question recurring on the adoption of Mr. Jones's proposition, the yeas and nays were ordered, and resulted as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs.  Aram, Brown, Dimmick, Gilbert, Hanks, Hoppe, Hobson, Hollingsworth, Jones, Moore, Reid, Sherwood, Stearns--13.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS--Messrs.  Botts, Carrillo, Covarrubias, Crosby, Dent, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Gwin, Hill, Halleck, Hastings, Larkin, Lippitt, McDougal, Norton, Ord, Pedrorena, Price, Pico, Rodriguez, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Steuart, Tefft, Vallejo, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft, President--31.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART moved to take up the proposition of the gentleman from San Diego, (Mr. Hill,) which was agreed to.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES said his reason for voting against this proposition was that it was not less objectionable than any proposition which had come before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARRILLO remarked that so much had been said on this subject that he supposed the Convention was heartily tired of it.  He, therefore, against his own opinion, and, perhaps, against the interests of California, felt constrained to vote in favor of the proposition of the gentleman from San Diego, (Mr. Hill,) so as to put an end to this question, and have some boundary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. COVARRUBIAS said he held an entirely different view from that just stated.  This Convention was assembled here for the purpose of performing certain duties, and whatever debate might arise on questions presented to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>458</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. CARRILLO said the reasons which he had avowed for the vote which he intended to give on this proposition was a matter for which he alone was responsible.  The gentleman (Mr. Covarrubias) should keep his personalities to himself and vote as he thought proper, without undertaking to hold other members accountable for their votes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT gave notice, that in the event of all the amendments now before the House being rejected, he would move the first part of the proposition of the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. McDougal,) adopting the Sierra Nevada as the definite boundary line.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK gave notice, if the House came to the determination not to adopt any of the propositions, he would move that the constitution go without any fixed boundary, leaving the question to be decided by the Congress of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT thought this compromise had turned out to be a perfect farce.  Many members were compelled to vote for a proposition which they were opposed to, from the fear of getting no boundary at all.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on Mr. Hill's proposition, and it was adopted, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Carrillo, Crosby, Dominguez, Foster, Hill, Hoppe, Hastings, Jones, Larkin, McCarver, Ord, Pedrorena, Price, Reid, Sutter, Shannon, Steuart, Vallejo, Vermeule, Walker, President.--24.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Covarrubias, Dent, Dimmick, Ellis, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hobson, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Lippitt, Lippincott, Moore, McDougal, Norton, Pico, Rodriguez, Snyder, Sherwood, Stearns, Tefft, Wozencraft.--22.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER here asked to be excused from further attendance, inasmuch as he considered that himself and the district which he represented had been treated with disrespect by the interruption of his remarks this morning.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Several members disclaimed, on the part of the House, any intention of disrespect or want of courtesy towards the gentleman from Sacramento; whereupon, Mr. McCarver expressed himself satisfied.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved that the article on the boundary be engrossed for a third reading, and stated that inasmuch as he would prefer having no boundary at all to the one just adopted, he would vote against the engrossment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK said he would suggest one other remedy in regard to this boundary: to put in a proviso that the Legislature and Congress might fix upon the Sierra Nevada.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PRICE said he was confident a majority of the members of this House were in favor of the Sierra Nevada line.  If the last vote could be reconsidered, he had no doubt that line would be adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS was opposed to the line adopted, and greatly preferred the Sierra Nevada; he would therefore vote against the engrossment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT gave the same reasons for his vote.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK though the object could be attained in this way.  The Chair had put the question, and it had been decided by yeas and nays, as to this amendment; but the question had not yet been put upon the report of the Committee of the Whole, as amended.  The House could reject that report, as amended by this proposition.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES said he would vote against the engrossment, in the hope that a line which would please him better might be proposed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. LIPPITT stated, as the reason of his vote, that if this line was rejected, he desired to offer the proposition of which he had given notice.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT said he would vote against the engrossment, for the purpose of getting the original report of the Committee as the boundary.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD would also vote against the same for the same reason.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE said that the proposition of the gentleman from San Joaquin, (Mr. Jones.) having been lost and another adopted, he would vote against the engrossment, in the hope that the Sierra Nevada line would be adopted, as it seemed to be the only compromise left.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the engrossment, and it was decided in the negative as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Crosby, Dominguez, Ellis, Foster, Hill, Hoppe, Hastings, Larkin, Ord, Pedrorena, Price, Reid, Shannon, Steuart, Vallejo, Walker, President--20.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Covarrubias, Dent, Dimmick, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hobson, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Jones, Lippitt, Lippincott, Moore, McCarver, McDougal, Norton, Pico, Rodriguez, Sutter, Snyder, Sherwood, Stearns, Tefft, Vermeule, Walker--29.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES then moved the adoption of the first branch of his proposition.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD moved as an amendment, the report of the Committee of the Whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question being taken on the proposition of Mr. Sherwood, it was rejected as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Covarrubias, Dimmick, Dominguez, Foster, Gilbert, Gwin, Hobson, Halleck, Hollingsworth, Moore, Norton, Pedrorena, Pico, Rodriguez, Sherwood, Stearns, Vallejo, Wozencraft.--18.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Crosby, Dent, Ellis, Hanks, Hill, Hoppe, Hastings, Jones, Larkin, McDougal, Ord, Price, Reid, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Steuart, Vallejo, Vermeule, Walker, President--24.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Thereupon, the question recurring on the proposition of Mr. Jones, it was adopted by the following vote, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Covarrubias, Crosby, Dent, Dominguez, Ellis, Gilbert, Gwin, Hanks, Hastings, Hoppe, Hollingsworth, Jones, Larkin, Lippitt, Lippincott, McCarver, McDougal, Norton, Ord, Price, Rodriguez, Reid, Sutter, Synder, Shannon, Steuart, Vermeule, Walker, President.--32.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Dimmick, Foster, Hill, Hobson, Pedrorena, Vallejo, Wozencraft--7.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHANNON, the article just adopted, was ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The House then adjourned to 7 o'clock, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 7 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Preamble to the constitution was read the third time and passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. HALLECK, it was ordered that the article on the Boundary be inserted in the constitution immediately preceding the schedule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article I of the constitution on the "Declaration of Rights," was taken up, read the third time, a few verbal errors corrected, and then passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article II on the "Right of Suffrage," was then taken up, read the third time, and passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article III on the "Distribution of Powers," was taken up, read the third time, and passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article IV on the "Legislative Department," was taken up, read the third time, several errors in phraseology corrected, and then passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article V on the "Executive Department," was taken up, read the third time, one or two verbal errors corrected, and the article then passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article VI on the "Judiciary," was then taken up, read the third time, and passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article VII on the "Militia," was taken up, read the third time, and passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the report of the Committee of the Whole on the "Schedule," was taken up, the amendments proposed by that Committee concurred in, and the article, thus amended, ordered to be engrossed for a third reading.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article VIII on the "State Debt," was taken up, read the third time, and passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Article IX on "Education," was taken up, read the third time, and passed.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Article X on the "mode of amending or revising the constitution," was taken up, read the third time, and passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The "Miscellaneous Provisions" of the constitution, were taken up, read the third time, and passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, adjourned to 10 o'clock, A.M., to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>THURSDAY, OCTOBER 11, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In Convention.  Prayer by Rev. Padre Antonio Ramirez.  Journal read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The secretary submitted a report in reference to the duties and pay of the clerks, asked for by Mr. Brown's resolution, which was read, and ordered to lie on the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART called for the consideration of the resolutions in relation to the mineral lands of California, submitted by him on the 9th inst.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. CROSBY.  I should like to know what authority we have to pass such a resolution as this?  As I understand it, it is merely recommendatory.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCCARVER.  I rise to a point of order.  There was a resolution offered hore a few days ago declaratory of the views of this House in relation to the public lands; claiming from Congress the right to these lands on the part of the people of California.  This resolution, it seems to me, should have the precedence, having been referred to the Committee of the Whole.  I do not know that the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>461</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I was not aware that any proposition of the kind had been offered.  Why did not the gentleman make a motion to have his resolution taken up?  I asked the House to take up the resolutions which I had offered on the subject of the mineral lands, and they are now the subject before the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR.  It seems to the Chair that these resolutions come before the House as a memorial, to be signed by the members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I move to lay them upon the table.  Mine certainly has the preference.  The object of the two is very nearly the same.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  The gentlemen are disputing about the preference of their resolutions.  I hope the House will give neither the preference by postponing both of them indefinitely.  As to the principle, which is necessarily involved in the proposition of the gentleman from Sacramento, (Mr. McCarver,) I am much in favor of it in the right place; but I hope we will go on to make a constitution, and I hope that the Legislature, at its very first session, will pass a resolution requesting the members of Congress from California and instructing the Senators to introduce such a plan, and vote for it, in the Congress of the United States.  That course is infinitely more efficacious, sir; the Legislature can do what we cannot do; they can instruct those whom they elect; and they can at least do all we can do--request others.  We have usurped very many of the powers of the Legislature, but none to such an extent as this.  To pass such a resolution here would be simply a petition to Congress signed by forty-six individuals.  There is another objection.  The Congress of the United States cannot prohibit the exportation of gold from California, without prohibiting it from every State in the Union.  I certainly would not like to sign a paper to send to Congress recognising the right of Congress to pass a law prohibiting the exportation of gold from this State.  If they can pass a particular law for our benefit, remember, sir, they can pass a particular law for our oppression also.  I think we had better lay all these matters on the table, never to be raised from it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  It was a principle established in the formation of the constitution, and held from that time to the present, as regards the public lands, that they were held in trust by the General Government for the benefit of the whole United States.  Congress is the guardian of that public property.  This principle holds good in regard to any public property acquired at the expense of the blood and treasure of the United States.  I thought the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. BOTTS,) looking to the State from which he came, would be the last to deny such a principle.  I do not propose to ask Congress to give us in perpetuity these public lands; but for a short period and for a specific object.  Congress having failed to give us the benefit of a territorial government, the least that we can expect is that she will grant us this source of revenue for the support of our State government until we can adopt some system of taxation that will not be onerous to our citizens.  The gentleman says that this will merely be a petition.  Sir, he rather overlooks the fact that it proposes to be a series of resolutions adopted by this Convention, representing the people of California.  We ask that a copy of these resolutions be placed in the hands of our Senators and Representatives, that they may be laid before Congress and receive the early hearing and speedy action of that body.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I beg leave to differ materially from my friend from Monterey (Mr. Botts.)  The matter contained in both of these resolutions is a subject which I think the members of this Convention should take into consideration, and which comes very appropriately within their province.  It is right and proper that the delegates of the people here assembled should declare their opinion that they believe this to be a portion of the public domain that they ought to have.  We do not do it in an official capacity, but as the representatives of the wishes of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>462</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. MCDOUGAL.  The proposition of the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Steuart,) as I heard it read, struck me very forcibly as one of great interest and importance; but inasmuch as the House is very anxious to get through with the constitution, I hope the gentleman will postpone his resolutions till to-morrow, when their minds will not be so much burdened with other matters.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I called up the resolutions this morning at the request of a number of gentlemen.  There was nothing else before the House that we could act upon.  I would make one explanation in regard to the objections of the gentleman from Monterey (Mr. Botts.)  There is not one word in all these resolutions about taxes or duties.  The Constitution of the United States well provides that "Congress shall have power to lay and collect taxes, duties, imposts, and excises; to pay the debts and provide for the common defence and general welfare of the United States; but all duties, imposts and excises shall be uniform throughout the United States."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  I call the gentleman's attention to the 5th article to the 9th section, which says:</P>
196.sgm:<P>No tax or duty shall be laid on articles exported from any State.  No preference shall be given by any regulation of commerce or revenue to the ports of one State over those of another; nor shall vessels bound to or from one State be obliged to enter, clear, or pay duties in another.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I am ready to meet the gentleman on that ground.  I say it is not proposed to lay any tax or duty upon any article exported from this State.  There is nothing of the kind in the resolutions.  As well might the gentleman say that Congress has no right to establish a mint and make persons pay for having their gold assessed and coined.  It is nothing more than the inspection laws, of the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  The gentleman says there is no duty laid upon the exportation of any article.  I say there is a duty of one hundred per cent.; a forfeiture of the whole amount--the largest duty I ever heard of.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ARAM.  So far as relates to the leasing of the mines, I recollect in the old mines of the northwest, the United States endeavored to collect revenue from the mines situated there, and established agencies from the year 1826 up to 1844.  But from the report of the Secretary of War on that subject, it appears that the expense of keeping up these agencies has overrun the income.  That satisfied Congress that it was utterly impracticable for the General Government to make anything out of the public mines, and in compliance with memorials from the people of those districts the lands were sold.  I think myself that Congress would willingly relinquish all claim to the gold regions; at least give the State the privilege of drawing an income from the working of the mines.  It would be a source of very considerable revenue to the State.  Those who worked them could be obliged to take out licenses at so much a month; and they would be very willing to pay for the privilege, which would at the same time secure to them the protection of a good government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the resolutions were laid upon the table.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Schedule was then taken up, amended in the 5th section, by adding at the close thereof the words, "and on the question of the adoption thereof;" and thus amended, the article was passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The article on the Boundary was taken up, read a third time, and passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN moved to take up the ordinance heretofore submitted by him; but the motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention took a recess till 3 o'clock, P.M.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 3 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. WOZENCRAFT, the Committee on Printing were discharged from further duty in relation to that subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. TEFFT offered the following resolution, which, after some discussion, was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART then called up his resolutions relative to the  mineral lands of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said he was opposed to that portion of the resolution fixing a penalty; and also to that portion relating to the resolution fixing a penalty; and also to that portion relating to the establishment of an essay office instead of a mint.  While he was in favor of obtaining revenue from this source, he did not entirely approve of the mode proposed by the gentleman from San Francisco.  He thought if these lands could be obtained from Congress, the necessary regulations in relation to them should be made by the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART recapitulated his former remarks in defence of the resolutions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SEMPLE.  The most important objection I have to these resolutions, is in reference to the establishment of an essay office instead of a mint.  It is said here that we do not want a mint; that it would be impracticable for the Government of the United States to get one up and put it in operation short of three or four years.  Now, sir, I contend that we could get a mint almost as soon as we could get an assay office.  It will take no such time to erect one as the gentleman supposes.  I judge from the private mints established here by individual enterprize; if they can get up mints in a few weeks, the Government of the United States certainly can in a few months.  What object is there in getting an assay office?  What protection will it afford the community?  Every gold digger knows what gold is, and there are very few, if any in California, who have not seen enough of gold dust to tell it at a glance.  There is no danger of imposition.  Again, you require a forfeiture of the entire amount of gold to prevent smuggling.  If any man undertakes to carry off his own bag of gold dust because he does not choose to pay a duty of one per cent. to have it cast in ingots, or because he may be ignorant of the law of Congress upon the subject, he is compelled to forfeit the entire sum, which may be all he possesses.  This seems to me to be a very improper restriction, and I think it would be very inexpedient for us to ask Congress to pass such a law.  I think, instead of having cause to be grateful to the Government at Washington for such protection, we would find it to be a curse.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I see no objection to the first resolution, soliciting Congress to give up for a series of years, all the revenue which may be derived from the renting, leasing, or otherwise authorized occupation of the gold placers.  That, I think, we are entitled to, and I believe the unanimous opinion of the Convention is in favor of obtaining from Congress, as a matter of justice, what revenue can be derived from these lands, though there may be some difference of opinion as to the mode.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I do not know, sir, what kind of mints the gentleman refers to; but we have only one reliable way of judging of these things, and that is, by reference to operations at home.  We well know that the establishment of a mint in North Carolina and in Louisiana, has been attended with immense expense, and they are not yet in as successful operation as the mint in Philadelphia.  We all know that for years and years back, with all the commercial influence of the great emporium of the United States, they have in vain sought to obtain from Congress the establishment of a mint at the city of New York.  I have no doubt that the Congress of the United States will establish a mint in California.  But this will not interfere with it.  An assay office is part and parcel of it.  The establishment of a mint will require much time, and will be very expensive in such a country as this where every species of labor is so high.  We want something <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>464</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I am in favor of the mines being left free for everybody to work under certain regulations; but I am not in favor of the United States owning them.  I want the State of California to own them.  I am in favor of a mint, and I am opposed to bars or ingots or any thing of the kind.  I want the round dollar, sir, or the $5 or $10 or $20 gold pieces to circulate here.  I want the coin of the United States.  In regard to the penalty of forfeiture fixed by the gentlemen, I am opposed to determining the fine here for any infraction of the laws regulating this matter.  I think we should pass a general resolution in regard to opening these mines for everybody, asking Congress to grant them to the State of California, and then making such regulations in regard to them as we may deem proper.  Believing, therefore, that the gentleman is entirely mistaken as to the ground which this Convention and the people of California should take, I shall vote against the resolutions, and I hope they will not receive the sanction of the House.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. WOZENCRAFT.  I do not think it would be at all proper to throw open the mines to everybody.  The American population should be protected in their right to the profits resulting from these mines.  The gentleman himself (Mr. Steuart) does not design that they shall be thrown open to foreigners, without restriction, nor do I believe such is the desire of any person here.  The resolution provides that they shall first become naturalized.  It is very proper that they should be thrown open to all American citizens; but we see already that thousands are coming from Europe, to draw wealth from these mines and carry it out of the country.  They have no right to do it; they contributed in no measure to the acquisition of this territory, and they have no permanent interest in its welfare.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  As this is a question of considerable importance, and as I agree in part with the gentleman from San Francisco, (Mr. Steuart,) I will endeavor to state in what I disagree with him.  He says in the first resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That the Congress of the United States be, and they are hereby respectfully but earnestly solicited to give up to the people of California for a series of years, or so long as may be deemed expedient, all the revenue which may be derived from the renting, leasing, or otherwise authorized occupation of the gold placers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Now, sir, if I understand the gentleman, by that, he means that the United States shall give up the mines to the State of California; but he goes on to say:</P>
196.sgm:<P>That in order to secure to the people of California a certain, immediate, and abundant revenue from the working of the gold mines, it is hereby recommended,</P>
196.sgm:<P>1st.  That the Congress of the United States throw open for a given time the whole placer country to the thousands who are pouring in by every ocean port, as well as inland communication, requiring by proper enactments and under regulations to be established by law, every gold-seeker to take out a license or permit for a given and stipulated time, from offices to be established for that purpose at convenient places; and further requiring every such operative, if not a citizen of the United States, to take the oath of allegiance, so long as he shall be a resident of California.  The fee or charge for such license or permit not to exceed five dollars per month, and the net proceeds arising therefrom to be paid into the treasury of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I apprehend, sir, that if the Congress of the United States should consent to give to California these mines, they would at the same time be willing to give us the whole control of them; that we and not the Congress of the United States <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>465</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  Not at all.  It is recommended as a preliminary measure.  There is no prohibition against the establishment of a mint.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I think, however, that if an assay office be established--especially if you take up the succeeding resolution, which says that a mint cannot be established at the proper time--that it would have the effect of precluding the establishment of a mint.  Now, Mr. President, I am in favor of the establishment of a mint in California.  I think the country requires it; and the sooner we can get it the better; not that I am opposed to an assay office, except that it would preclude the speedy establishment of a mint.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This is substantially all the objection I have to the plan.  I have no objection to the first or to the last resolution.  I therefore move that they be voted upon <HI REND="italics">seriatim</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  In asking Congress to give us the entire revenue and benefit of the mines for a number of years, it is all I thought we probably could get; as Congress would not be likely to give in perpetuity these mines to California, or entangle them with such regulations as might give rise to difficulty hereafter.  As regards the gentleman's objections on the subject of a mint, I am as much in favor of the establishment of a mint in California as any gentleman here.  But it has been urged upon me by gentlemen acquainted with the subject, that an assay office must precede the establishment of a mint, and I desired that, until we could get a mint, the establishment of which would be more expensive, and require much more time, that we should have an assay office.  It would not preclude the establishment of a mint.  It would rather be an auxiliary.  We must have an assay office, if we get a mint.  I am willing that the House should take up these resolutions <HI REND="italics">seriatim</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GILBERT.  I believe the gentleman will admit that I am as anxious to have a mint in California as he is; but inasmuch as I do not think this the best plan to get it, I am opposed to that portion of the resolutions.  If he prefers that they should go as a whole, I shall withdraw my motion; but I shall be compelled to vote against the proposition as a whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I would call attention to my resolution, offered in relation to the public lands.  That resolution gives the Legislature the power to do all that Congress is required to do in these resolutions, provided Congress agree to it.  It covers the whole subject included in the proposition of the gentleman.  I am in favor of any proposition that asks that the gold mines shall be granted to California; but I do not at the same time believe that Congress would be so likely to relinquish the gold mines as they would the public lands in any other part of the country.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I regard this as a very important matter, and I hope the gentleman (Mr. Steuart) will revise his proposition so as to leave out all the objectionable matter, which is not material, and then it will probably pass.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ELLIS.  I am also of opinion that this is a very important subject; but I cannot think that any gentleman here can vote for it as it stands, without violating an oath which he took to support the Constitution of the United States.  The same objection has been urged by the gentleman from Monterey, (Mr. Botts.)  It is contained in the 5th article of the 9th section: "No tax or duty shall be laid on articles exported from any State."</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  The gentleman entirely mistakes the nature of the resolution.  If the United States have the right to make an individual pay for the coining of gold at the mint, they have a right to make him pay for having it assayed.  This right has never been denied.  A tax has always been laid by the inspection laws.  This is nothing more than an inspection of the gold of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DENT.  I am in favor of many of the provisions of these resolutions, but as they now stand, I shall be obliged to vote in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL.  I should vote in the affirmative if the objectionable clauses were stricken out; but I cannot vote in favor of the resolutions as a whole.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the resolution was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER'S resolution in relation to the public lands was then, on motion, taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  I shall vote against this resolution.  I think these lands belong to the Government of the United States.  They cost the General Government fifteen millions of dollars; and although it may be very well for us to ask Congress to grant them to the State of California, inasmuch as she has had no appropriation for the support of a government, I think we cannot say that of right they belong to California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I certainly cannot vote for the resolution.  It is a doctrine broached some twenty or thirty years ago--a doctrine which can never prevail in the Congress of the United States.  It may be popular in the Western States; but it is in open violation of the Constitution of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the resolution was rejected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. NORTON, Mr. Steuart's resolution, submitted on the 27th of September, for the appointment of a Committee to draft an Address to the people of California, was then taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART said he had offered the resolution because he thought it important to send out with the constitution, as adopted by this Convention, a short address to the people of California, upon the importance of an early consideration of the constitution, and also the importance of attendance at the polls, in order that a full expression of the public voice might be had, not only to show the sense of the people of California in regard to this constitution, but to show the Congress of the United States the imposing attitude that we assume, and the array of votes which we can produce in the formation of our State government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken, and the resolution was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR (Mr. Botts) appointed Messrs. Steuart, Halleck and Vermeule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK asked to be excused, as other duties would render it very difficult for him to attend upon this Committee.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD thought it would be proper to have one delegate from each district</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. VERMEULE was also of that opinion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the vote on the resolution was reconsidered; and, on motion, it was so amended as to provide that the Committee should consist of one from each district, and thus amended, the resolution was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The CHAIR appointed as such Committee, Messrs. Steuart, McDougal, Vermeule, Larkin, Hoppe, Walker, Tefft, De La Guerra, Stearns and Pedrorena.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said he would merely state that Mr. Howe was a most faithful and efficient clerk; that his duties had been very laborious, and he had discharged them with great credit to himself and advantage to the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART fully concurred in the opinion expressed by his frind from Sacramento.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN thought it an act of justice to state that he had never seen duties more faithfully performed.  Those duties had been very laborious; and he hoped the House would unanimously adopt the resolution.</P>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART moved to amend, by adding thereto the following:</P>
196.sgm:<P>And that he be authorized to continue the record of the proceedings at the same per diem allowance, <HI REND="italics">provided</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The amendment was agreed to, and the resolution adopted, as amended.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE offered the following resolution:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. MOORE said he considered that inasmuch as Mr. Richardson had come here with a certificate of election, he was entitled to his per diem and mileage.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL stated that Mr. Richardson was duly elected under the call of the people of San Diego, and they gave him a certificate of election, as a delegate from that district.  He came here with that certificate.  When he arrived here, he found that this Convention had resolved to admit but a certain number, and they decided that he could not be admitted.  He (Mr. McDougal) thought it was but simple justice that Mr. Richardson should at least have his allowance for travelling expenses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON was of opinion that there was a good deal of doubt upon this matter.  It was known to the House that if Mr. Richardson could have been at all admitted he could have been admitted only as a supernumerary.  He (Mr. Richardson) then came here at his own risk; but further than that, he came her under pay from the United States Government, and at public expense.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. PEDRORENA stated that Mr. Richardson resigned his office under the Government of the United States, before he left for this Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The question was then taken on the resolution, and it was adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD offered the following resolution, which was adopted unanimously:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. PRICE, the resolution submitted by him on the 27th of September, relative to the Seal of State of California, was taken up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK moved to amend the resolution by adding at the end, "press and materials."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON wanted to know what this $1,000 was for?  Whether it was for the payment of the design and execution of the work, or to enable Mr. Lyon to go up to San Francisco and superintend the work.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McDOUGAL said it was for the design, the engraving of the seal, and press, all included.  He hoped no gentleman would think the sum too much.  He was authorised to say that if the House thought it too extravagant, that Sacramento herself would pay the $1,000.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER stated that the mechanic's bill for the press for the State of Iowa was $500.  If the Committee had said $2,000 he would not have thought it out of the way.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON said he had made no objection whatever to the thousand dollars.  All he wanted to know was what it was for.  He did not know but that it was to pay Mr. Lyon for going to Sacramento, and merely superintending the work.  He moved to insert at the end of the resolution, "press and all appendages."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. DIMMICK said this was his amendment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK suggested that this thousand dollars could not be advanced, because the work was not for the existing government, and could not be paid for except by the new State government, for which the seal was intended.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON then offered the following substitute, which was adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK inquired if any gentleman present knew what had become of the original design.  The gentleman by whom it was designed<ANCHOR ID="n0467-01">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm: requested that it should be found, if possible, and handed to the gentleman who occupied the Chair.<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n0467-01">Major Garnett.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD believed that this seal was not the entire production of the gentleman who was authorized to have it engraved, and he (Mr. Lyon) did not claim it as such.  The original design was given to Mr. Lyon by a gentleman who did not wish his name to be made public, but expressed a desire in a confidential letter to Mr. Lyon that he (Mr. Lyon) might be known as the author of the design.  Some additions were made to it by Mr. Lyon, and it was adopted by the House in its present form.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HALLECK did not wish to throw the slightest censure upon Mr. Lyon, but after the matter was all settled and disposed of, he was requested to ascertain if the original paper laid before the House could be found.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion the Convention took a recess until 7 o'clock P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NIGHT SESSION, 7 O'CLOCK, P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, the ordinance heretofore submitted by him, was taken up, as follows, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>ORDINANCE.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Be it ordained by the Convention assembled to form a constitution for the State of California, on behalf and by authority of the people of said State, that the following propositions be submitted to the Congress of the United States, which, if assented to by that body, shall be obligatory upon this State:</P>
196.sgm:<P>1.  One section of land for every quarter township of the public lands; and when such section has been sold or otherwise disposed of, other lands equivalent thereto, and as contiguous as may be, shall be granted to the State for the use of schools.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  Seventy-two sections of the unappropriated lands within this States, shall be set apart and reserved for use and support of a University, which, together with such further quantities as may be agreed upon by Congress, shall be conveyed to the State and appropriated solely to the use and support of such university in such manner as the Legislature may prescribe.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  Four sections of land, to be selected under the direction of the Legislature, from any of the unappropriated public lands belonging to the United States, within this State, shall be granted to the State for its use in establishing a seat of Government, or to defray the expenses of public buildings at the same.</P>
196.sgm:<P>4.  Five hundred thousand acres of the unappropriated public lands in this State, belonging to the United States, in addition to the 500,000 acres granted to the new States under an act of Congress distributing the proceeds of the public lands among the several States of the Union, approved A.D., 1841, shall be designated, under the direction of the Legislature, and granted to the State for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the State Government, and for other State purposes.  And five per cent. of the net proceeds of the sale of all lands lying within the State which shall be sold under the authority of the United States, after deducting all expenses incident to the same, shall also be appropriated for the encouragement of learning.</P>
196.sgm:<P>5.  All salt springs within this State, and the lands reserved for the use of the same, at least one section including each spring, shall be granted to the State, to be used or disposed of as the Legislature may direct.</P>
196.sgm:<P>6.  The first Senators and Representatives elected to Congress from this State, are hereby authorized and empowered to make or assent to such other proposition, or to such variations of the propositions herein made, as the interests of the State may require; and any such changes when approved by the Legislature shall be as obligatory as if the assent of this Convention were given thereto; and all stipulations entered into by the Legislature in pursuance of the authority herein conferred, shall be considered articles of compact between the United States and this State; and the Legislature is hereby further authorized to declare in behalf of the people of California, if such declaration be proposed by Congress, that they will not interfere with the primary disposal, under the authority of the United States, of the vacant lands within the limits of this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  I find appended to most of the Constitutions of the new States an ordinance, guaranteeing to the United States the exclusive right to dispose of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>469</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>An ordinance of this kind may not be indispensible to the admission of California into the Union, but the want of it might seriously embarrass if not postpone the admission.  With the limited means at hand I have not been able to make a thorough examination into these ordinances, but I find Ohio had no ordinance.  Louisiana had one agreeing to the requirements of the act of Congress relinquishing the right to the public domain: so also with Alabama and Mississippi.  Indiana has an ordinance, without guaranteeing the right of the vacant lands to the United States.  The same with Illinois and Missouri, and Florida merely gave the power to two-thirds of the Legislature to agree to such propositions as might be made by the United States; while Arkansas passed no ordinance.  These two latter States formed constitutions without the authority of a previous act of Congress.  One gave limited power to the Legislature to agree to propositions Congress might make, while the other gave none at all.  Yet we see no difficulty between this State and the United States in regard to the primary disposal of the vacant lands within their borders.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In looking over these ordinances, I have seen none that seems so well adapted to our situation as that of Michigan; and I have accordingly adopted it as the basis of the one I hold in my hand and propose for adoption by this body.  I have varied it in some of its provisions, For instance, I ask for a section of land for schools for every quarter township instead of one for each township.  I earnestly hope this proposition will be acceded to by the United States: It will give us a munificent school fund, and bring the school-house within reach of every house in the State.  Congress has already in part adopted this policy with Oregon, giving them two sections to each township instead of one, as was formerly the case.  May we not hope that, influenced by the liberal and enlightened spirit of an age when the schoolmaster is abroad, we may get a section to each quarter township, and thus, as I said before, bring the residence of every citizen within reach of the school-house?</P>
196.sgm:<P>There is another slight alteration in the third clause, where we ask for four sections of land upon which to establish a seat of government, or to be appropriated towards erecting public buildings.  In the fourth clause, instead of asking for seven hundred sections for roads and canals, we ask for half a million of acres to assist us in starting our State Government.  This is but just and proper, and I hope will be acceded to without hesitation by Congress.  We have been forced into the organization of a State Government, to prevent confusion and anarchy, by the failure of Congress to give us a Territorial Government.  We have had no territorial pupilage, with large appropriations to build court houses, jails, and other necessary buildings.  All of this has to be done by us, by a tax upon the people, unless Congress gives us a portion of the public domain for that purpose, or allows us, what is nothing but just, right, and proper, all the moneys collected prior to the admission of our State into the Union.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I conceive it to be of the utmost importance that this ordinance should be adopted by the Convention.  It may prevent serious difficulties, and can do no possible harm; for not a member of this body supposes or proposes that the United States should not have the exclusive disposal of the vacant lands within our borders, although some of us hope that the General Government may relinquish to the State authorities the control of the mineral lands, upon the payment of a very moderate sum into the National Treasury.  But this is a subject for future action between the State authorities and the General Government, and I will not consume the time of the House by giving my views on it, but submit the ordinance without further remark.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART.  I had hoped, sir, from hearing this resolution or ordinance read, that some proposition would have been presented to this House upon which we could <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>470</CONTROLPGNO>
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196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  That proviso has been stricken out.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS.  It seems to me that the fact that it was stricken out is a still greater reason against the adoption of this ordinance.  It proposes to do something else with the proceeds of the public lands than what the constitution provides.  I am opposed to the whole ordinance, for it amounts, in my view, to a dictation to Congress to pass a law; it is a proposition that this Convention shall prescribe a law which the Congress of the United States shall adopt.  It seems to me that such a recommendation would come much better from the Legislature, which is the legitimate and customary source of all such action.  But if this is to be adopted at all, hastily passing my eye over the 6th section, I see a difficulty which I hope will be remedied.  It reads:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The first Senators and Representatives elected to Congress from this State are hereby authorised and empowered to make, or assent to, <HI REND="italics">such other propositions</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Then the Congress of the United States and our honorable Representatives in Congress, and our Legislature, may together make us a new Constitution.  This only shows that although a thing may be in the constitution of Michigan or New York, it may be faulty; and as we have so many gentlemen here who no doubt were very able at home to make these constitutions, both for Michigan and New York, I see no reason at all why we may not correct the errors into which they have fallen, or their forefathers.  I propose to amend this section so far as to dispossess these gentlemen of the power to make or unmake a constitution for us.  We have absolutely prohibited a majority of our own people from altering it at their polls.  You remember how hard I contended on this floor for that power; but I did not succeed.  I object to the two-third principle; the majority were however, by the Select Committee, denied the right to alter this Constitution.  But now, sir, the Legislature, two Senators, and the Congress of the United States may change this Constitution.  I have not had time to examine the rest of this ordinance in detail, but I am afraid there may be equally objectionable provisions in the other sections.  I therefore propose that the Legislature shall take the subject in hand, and if any such action on the part of Congress is needed for this State, that the Legislature shall take such action as is necessary upon it.  I move the indefinite postponement of the ordinance.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I have exactly the same objection that the gentleman (Mr. Botts) has; and only to that section.  It is to me a most serious objection.  We have already fixed a plan by which the constitution shall be altered, and now it is proposed to adopt a different plan.  Our boundary lines may be altered under that provision, with barely the sanction of the members of Congress and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>471</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>470</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. McCARVER.  I am extremely sorry to see my colleague (Mr. Sherwood) take a position which seems to me so absurd.  It is singular that any gentleman should question the right of the Government of the United States to make this donation to the people of California, without its being received in this way; or that the Legislature should not have power to acquiesce in it.  It is done in many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>472</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>471</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES.  I do not profess to be very profoundly versed in this question, and I shall not say a great deal about it; but I should be at a loss to account for the many objections that have been raised to what I conceive to be a plain proposition, if it were not for certain writings that I saw at the front door as I came in; and it strikes me that as there is to be a meeting of certain gentlemen, perhaps of the whole Convention--for a purpose about which we all know something, that there may be a little advantage gained in the race.  As I want to go before the people with a fair face, I do not want to vote against a proposition which I consider so reasonable, so just, and necessary as this.  We are told as a great objection to this proposition, that Michigan claimed the same thing and got it.  I consider that a recommendation.  If we have the precedent in Congress of the successful action of Michigan, it is surely a strong argument in favor of our adopting the same policy.  I do not think our own originality here would be any great recommendation in Congress.  I believe we could originate here as well as they could in Michigan; but as long as we have a successful precedent, I think we had better follow it.  That article as to the lands granted by Congress for the purpose of education, should be held sacred for that purpose, and the rents should also be applied to the same purpose.  We do not talk here of revenues or rents; we talk of a specific appropriation by Congress for a specific purpose.  I do not see a word in this constitution against it.  But we are told that Congress and our Representatives, together with the Legislature, are given, by this ordinance, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>473</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>472</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON.  I move as an amendment, to strike out the last section.  I do it for these reasons:  It seems that there is considerable objection to this section on account of the possibility of its interference with Congress and the boundary question, as established by this Convention.  Grant that it is so, and I think, since my attention has been called to it, that it may be so.  It appears to me that the reading of that section conveys a most distinct and separate idea.  Probably from the imperfection of the language used, it may be that the whole section refers to those which precede; but if that be so, then the language used, does not convey the true meaning of the section.  It refers to some other sections beyond it contained in the body of the ordinance.  The reference is most decided and direct; and most surely I do not wish, nor do I think any member wishes that any thing contained in an informal instrument appended to this constitution, should conflict with its provisions, which we have here so deliberately and unanimously passed.  Either one thing or the other is certain; if it has no reference to any thing without or beyond that contained within the ordinance, then the wording is most incorrect and improper.  If it is so, I think it should be striken out.  Moreover, if we wish any of the benefits to be accrued from this ordinance, those benefits are to be obtained by every section and part of the ordinance preceding this section.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  I would sustain the motion made by my colleague to strike out the entire section.  I will read the section.  The word "other" applies to any thing at all; whether it is conducive to the interest of the State or not, is left entirely to the judgment of our Representatives in Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD.  To save all discussion on this subject, I will move to insert "such other propositions touching this ordinance."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HASTINGS.  It appears to me that this is too general, and leaves an unlimited power to our Representatives in Congress.  I would suggest, "not inconsistent with this constitution."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. GWIN.  If we do not retain something of this kind in the ordinance, we may be kept out until the people assemble in Convention and pass a new provision.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON then moved to strike out of the 6th section the clause "to such other propositions or" which Mr. Gwin accepted, and thus amended, the ordinance was passed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. JONES called for the consideration of the resolution submitted by him on the 9th instant; which being taken up, and the yeas and nays ordered thereon, it was rejected, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Aram, Brown, Crosby, Dent, Gilbert, Hoppe, Hollingsworth, Jones, Larkin, Moore, McCarver, McDougal, Pedrorena, Sherwood, Steuart, Vermeule, Walker, Wozencraft--16.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Botts, Dimmick, Dominguez, Ellis, Gwin, Hill, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Lippincott, Norton, Ord, Price, Sutter, Snyder, Shannon, Stearns, Tefft, President--21.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, the report of the Committee on the Census was taken up, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>474</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>473</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The committee to whom was referred the subject of taking an enumeration of the inhabitants of California, under the instructions of the Convention, beg leave to report:</P>
196.sgm:<P>It is a fact well known to all, that there are no statistics to which we can refer in order to determine the number of inhabitants in this Territory.  Such has been the immense imigration to this country by sea and land within the past six months, that no man can obtain a basis upon which to estimate the number.  The North and the South, the East and the West, the Old and the New Worlds have been sending their thousands of enterprising and industrious men into California.  We cannot doubt that the present population (exclusive of Indians) amounts to 80,000.  We are aware that the number has been placed higher, by many intelligent men, well acquainted with the various districts into which the tide has flown.  At all events we hazard nothing in saying that on the 1st of January next the population may be set down at 100,000.  But after all, when this State applies for admission into the Federal Union, it may be said that this is mere conjecture, and those who are called upon to vote for our admission, may demand better evidence than our opinions on this subject.  In order to prevent delay, and secure at once a State Government capable of giving security to our persons and property, it is in our opinion necessary that steps should be taken to have immediately the census taken.  Our Representatives at Washington will then be armed with <HI REND="italics">official</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Your Committee, entertaining these opinions, recommend that an enumeration be taken of the inhabitants of California, specifying:</P>
196.sgm:<P>1st. Number of white Males over the age of 21 years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2d.<HSEP>"<HSEP>Females<HSEP>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>"</P>
196.sgm:<P>3d.<HSEP>"<HSEP>Males<HSEP>under<HSEP>21<HSEP>"</P>
196.sgm:<P>4th.<HSEP>"<HSEP>Females<HSEP>"<HSEP>18<HSEP>"</P>
196.sgm:<P>To effect this object as speedily as possible your Committee recommend the appointment of a Marshal, who shall have power to select deputies, who shall proceed at as early a day as possible to take the census, and report to the first session of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2d.  That there be allowed to the said Marshal the sum of<HSEP>dollars per day for each day actually employed, and his necessary traveling expenses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3d.  That the deputies appointed by the Marshal shall receive for their salaries<HSEP>cents for each name returned by them on their separate rolls.</P>
196.sgm:<P>4th.  That said Marshal and his deputies shall, before entering on the duties of their offices, subscribe an oath before some competent authority to discharge their duties faithfully, and make a true and accurate report of the population of the respective districts assigned to them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>(Signed) B. F. MOORE, <HI REND="italics">Chairman</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART moved that the report be indefinitely postponed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The motion was decided in the affirmative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved to take up the report of the Committee of Ways and Means, but the motion was decided in the negative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. HILL moved that the Convention adjourn until Saturday at 10 o'clock, but the motion was decided in the negative, by yeas and nays, as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>YEAS.--Messrs. Gilbert, Hill, Tefft--3.</P>
196.sgm:<P>NAYS.--Messrs. Aram, Botts, Brown, Covarrubias, Crosby, Dent, Dimmick, Ellis, Gwin, Hoppe, Hobson, Halleck, Hastings, Jones, Larkin, Lippincott, Moore, McDougal, Norton, Ord, Pedrorena, Price, Rodriguez, Sutter, Snyder, Sherwood, Shannon, Stearns, Steuart, Walker--30.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention then adjourned until 10 o'clock, A.M., to-morrow.</P>
196.sgm:<P>FRIDAY, OCTOBER 12, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Journal of yesterday read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. Norton submitted the following resolution, which was unanimously adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. Ellis, it was unanimously</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The Chair appointed Messrs, Ellis, Hastings, and McCarver as such committee.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>475</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>474</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The President announced to the Convention that he had received official notice from General Riley, that a national salute would be fired by his order, on the signing of the Constitution adopted by this Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SATURDAY, OCTOBER 13, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>On motion (the President being absent on acount of sickness) Mr. Sutter was called to the chair.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Journal of yesterday was read and approved.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. BOTTS submitted the following resolution, which was unanimously adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. STEUART, from the committee appointed to prepare an Address to the People of California, presented the following, which was unanimously adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P>TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The undersigned, Delegates to a Convention authorized to form a Constitution for the State of California, having to the best of their ability discharged the high trust committed to them, respectfully submit the accompanying plan of government for your approval.  Acknowledging the great fundamental principles that all political power is inherent in the people, and that government is instituted for the protection, security, and benefit of the people, the Constitution presented for your consideration is intended only to give such organic powers to the several departments of the proposed government as shall be necessary for its efficient administration; and while it is believed <HI REND="italics">no</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Although born in different climes, coming from different States, imbued with local feelings, and educated perhaps with predilections for peculiar institutions, laws and customs, the delegates assembled in Convention, <HI REND="italics">as Californians</HI>
196.sgm:<P>It cannot be denied, that a difference of opinion was entertained in the Convention, as to the policy and expendiency of several measures embodied in the Constitution; but looking to the great interests of the State of California, the peace, happiness, and prosperity of the whole people, individual opinions were freely surrendered to the will of the majority, and with one voice we respectfully but earnestly recommend to our fellow-citizens, the adoption of the Constitution which we have the honor to submit.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In establishing a boundary for the State, the Convention conformed, as near as was deemed practicable and expedient, to great natural landmarks, so as to bring into a union all those who should be included by mutual interest, mutual wants, and mutual dependence.  No portion of territory is included, the inhabitants of which were not or might not have been legitimately represented in the Convention, under the authority by which it was convened; and in unanimously resolving to exclude slavery from the State of California, the great principle has been maintained, that to the people of each State and Territory, <HI REND="italics">alone</HI>
196.sgm:<P>A free people, in the enjoyment of an elective government, capable of securing their civil, religious, and political rights, may rest assured these inestimable privileges can never be wrested from them, so long as they keep a watchful eye on the operations of their government, and hold to strict accountability, those to whom power is delegated.  No people were ever yet enslaved, who knew and dared maintain the co-relative rights and obligations of free and independent citizens.  A knowledge of the laws, their moral force and efficacy, thus becomes an essential element of freedom, and makes public education of primary importance.  In this view, the Constitution of California provides for and guarantees in the most ample manner, the establishment of common schools, seminaries, and colleges, so as to extend the blessings of education throughout the land, and secure its advantages to the present and future generations.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Under the peculiar circumstances in which California becomes a State--with an unexampled increase of a population, coming from every part of the world, speaking various languages, and imbued with different feelings and prejudices, no form of government, no system of laws, can be be expected to meet with immediate and unanimous assent.  It is to be remembered, moreover, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>476</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>475</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>With this brief exposition of the views and opinions of the Convention, the undersigned submit the constitution and plan of government for your approval.  They earnestly recommend it to your calm and deliberate consideration, and especially do they most respectfully urge on every voter to attend the polls.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The putting into operation of a government which shall establish justice, ensure domestic tranquillity, promote the general welfare, and secure the blessings of civil, religious and political liberty, should be an object of the deepest solicitude to every true-hearted citizen, and the consummation of his dearest wishes.  The price of liberty is eternal vigilance, and thus it is not only the privilege, but the duty, of every voter to vote his sentiments.  No freeman of this land who values his birth-right, and would transmit unimpaired to his children an inheritance so rich in glory and in honor, will refuse to give one day to the service of his country.  Let every qualified voter go early to the polls, and give his <HI REND="italics">free</HI>
196.sgm:<P>JOSEPH ARAM,</P>
196.sgm:<P>CHARLES T. BOTTS,</P>
196.sgm:<P>ELAM BROWN,</P>
196.sgm:<P>JOSE ANTO. CARRILLO,</P>
196.sgm:<P>JOSE M. COVARRUBIAS,</P>
196.sgm:<P>ELISHA O. CROSBY,</P>
196.sgm:<P>LEWIS DENT,</P>
196.sgm:<P>MANUEL DOMINGUEZ,</P>
196.sgm:<P>K. H. DIMMICK,</P>
196.sgm:<P>A. J. ELLIS,</P>
196.sgm:<P>STEPHEN G. FOSTER,</P>
196.sgm:<P>PABLO DE LA GUERRA,</P>
196.sgm:<P>EDWARD GILBERT,</P>
196.sgm:<P>WILLIAM M. GWIN,</P>
196.sgm:<P>JULIAN HANKS,</P>
196.sgm:<P>HENRY HILL,</P>
196.sgm:<P>J. D. HOPPE,</P>
196.sgm:<P>JOSEPH HOBSON,</P>
196.sgm:<P>H. W. HALLECK,</P>
196.sgm:<P>L. W. HASTINGS,</P>
196.sgm:<P>J. McH. HOLLINSWORTH,</P>
196.sgm:<P>JAMES McHALL JONES,</P>
196.sgm:<P>THOMAS O. LARKIN,</P>
196.sgm:<P>FRANCIS J. LIPPITT,</P>
196.sgm:<P>BENJAMIN S. LIPPINCOTT,</P>
196.sgm:<P>M. M. McCARVER,</P>
196.sgm:<P>JOHN McDOUGAL,</P>
196.sgm:<P>BENJAMIN F. MOORE,</P>
196.sgm:<P>MYRON NORTON,</P>
196.sgm:<P>P. ORD,</P>
196.sgm:<P>MIGUEL DE PEDRORENA,</P>
196.sgm:<P>RODMAN M. PRICE,</P>
196.sgm:<P>ANTONIO M. PICO,</P>
196.sgm:<P>JACINTO RODRIGUEZ,</P>
196.sgm:<P>HUGH REID,</P>
196.sgm:<P>J. A. SUTTER,</P>
196.sgm:<P>JACOB R. SNYDER,</P>
196.sgm:<P>WINFIELD S. SHERWOOD,</P>
196.sgm:<P>WILLIAM C. SHANNON,</P>
196.sgm:<P>PEDRO SANSEVAINE,</P>
196.sgm:<P>ABEL STEARNS,</P>
196.sgm:<P>W. M. STEUART,</P>
196.sgm:<P>R. SEMPLE,</P>
196.sgm:<P>HENRY A. TEFFT,</P>
196.sgm:<P>M. G. VALLEJO,</P>
196.sgm:<P>THOMAS L. VERMEULE,</P>
196.sgm:<P>JOEL P. WALKER,</P>
196.sgm:<P>O. M. WOZENCRAFT.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. NORTON submitted the following resolution, which was adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHANNON moved a suspension of the rules to enable him to move a reconsideration of the vote by whieh the resolution of Mr. Jones, submitted on the 9th instant, was rejected; but the motion was decided in the negative--yeas 16, mays 23.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>477</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>476</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. SHERWOOD, it was</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:, That the ten days additional services authorized by a resolution of this Convention to be performed by Mr. Howe, after its adjournment <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion, the Convention adjourned to 2 o'clock P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>AFTERNOON SESSION, 2 O'CLOCK P.M.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention met pursuant to adjournment.  The President, though in feeble health, resumed the Chair.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. SHERWOOD, submitted the following resolution, which was unanimously adopted, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. McDOUGAL, it was unanimously</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Mr. ORD submitted the following resolution, which was unanimously adopted:</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. GWIN, Mr. J. A. Sutter was requested to address Gov. Riley on behalf of this Convention, when it shall wait upon him in a body after the adjournment <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On motion of Mr. McCARVER, the thanks of the Convention were tendered to the Trustees of Colton Hall for the use of that building during the sessions of the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Convention then, on motion of Mr. McDOUGAL, proceeded to sign the enrolled constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>After which the President addressed to the Convention a few remarks, thanking them for the honor they had done him, and the courtesy they had always exhibited, and wishing them a safe and speedy return to their several homes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>And then, on motion of Mr. McCARVER, the Convention adjourned <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The members thereupon proceeded in a body to General Riley's house.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Captain SUTTER, in behalf of the Convention, addressed General Riley as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>GENERAL:  I have been appointed by the delegates elected by the people of California to form a Constitution, to address you in their names and in behalf of the whole people of California, and express the thanks of the Convention for the aid and co-operation they have received from you in the discharge of the responsible duty of creating a State Government.  And, sir, the Convention, as you will perceive from the official records, duly appreciate the great and important services you have rendered to our common country, and especially to the people of California, and entertains the confident belief that you will receive from the whole people of the United States, when you retire from your official duties here, that verdict so grateful to the heart of the patriot: "Well done, thou good and faithful servant."</P>
196.sgm:<P>General RILEY replied as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN: I never made a speech in my life.  I am a soldier--but I can <HI REND="italics">feel</HI>
196.sgm:; and I do feel deeply the honor you have this day conferred upon me.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>478</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>477</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>[Here Gen. Riley was interrupted by three cheers from the members, "as Governor of California," and three more "as a gallant soldier, and worthy of his country's glory."]</P>
196.sgm:<P>He then concluded in teh following words:  I have but one thing to add, gentlemen, and that is, that my success in the affairs of California is mainly owing to the efficient aid rendered me by Captain Halleck, the Secretary of State.  He has stood by me in all emergencies; to him I have always appealed when at a loss myself; and he has never failed me.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>479</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>478</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">Members of the Convention of California.</HI>
196.sgm:<illus entity="a196-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P><HI REND="italics">Members of the Convention of California</HI>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>480</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>479</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Thos. L. Vermeule<HSEP>35<HSEP>New Jersey<HSEP>New York<HSEP>San Joaquin<HSEP>Stockton<HSEP>Three years<HSEP>Lawyer.<LB>Benj. S. Lippincott<HSEP>34<HSEP>New York<HSEP>New Jersey<HSEP>San Joaquin<HSEP>Stockton<HSEP>Three years and-a-half<HSEP>Trader.<LB>Myron Norton<HSEP>27<HSEP>Birmington County, Vt<HSEP>New York<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>One year<HSEP>Lawyer.<LB>W. M. Steuart<HSEP>49<HSEP>Montgomery County, Md<HSEP>Maryland<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>One year<HSEP>Attorney at Law.<LB>B. F. Moore<HSEP>29<HSEP>Florida<HSEP>Texas<HSEP>San Joaquin<HSEP>Stockton<HSEP>One year<HSEP>Elegant leisure.<LB>A. J. Ellis<HSEP>33<HSEP>Oneida County<HSEP>New York<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>Two years and-a-half<HSEP>Merchant.<LB>Edw. Gilbert<HSEP>27<HSEP>Dutchess County, N. Y<HSEP>New York<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>Two years and-a-half<HSEP>Printer.<LB>J. M. Jones<HSEP>25<HSEP>Scott County, Ky<HSEP>Louisiana<HSEP>San Joaquin<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>About four months<HSEP>Attorney at Law.<LB>W. M. Gwin<HSEP>44<HSEP>Sumner County, Tenn<HSEP>Louisiana<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>Four months<HSEP>Farmer.<LB>Jose Anto. Carrillo<HSEP>53<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>California<HSEP>Angeles<HSEP>Angeles<HSEP>Toda la vida<HSEP>Labrador.<LB>Francis J. Lippitt<HSEP>37<HSEP>Rhode Island<HSEP>New York<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>San Francisco<HSEP>Two years seven m'ths<HSEP>Lawyer.<LB>Henry Hill<HSEP>33<HSEP>Virginia<HSEP>Virginia<HSEP>San Diego<HSEP>Monterey<HSEP>One year five months<HSEP>U. S. Army.<LB>Miguel de Pedrorena<HSEP>41<HSEP>Spain<HSEP>California<HSEP>San Diego<HSEP>San Diego<HSEP>Twelve years<HSEP>Merchant.<LB>R. Semple<HSEP>42<HSEP>Kentucky<HSEP>Missouri<HSEP>Sonoma<HSEP>Benicia<HSEP>Five years<HSEP>Printer.<LB>P. N. de la Guerra<HSEP>36<HSEP>California<HSEP>California<HSEP>Santa Barbara<HSEP>Santa Barbara<LB>J. M. Covarrubias<HSEP>40<HSEP>California<HSEP>California<HSEP>San Luis Obispo<HSEP>San Luis Obispo</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>481</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<BACK><DIV><HEAD>APPENDIX.</HEAD>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>482</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>483</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CONSTITUTION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA.</HEAD>
196.sgm:<P>PROCLAMATION TO THE PEOPLE OF CALIFORNIA.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The delegates of the people assembled in Convention, have formed a Constitution, which is now presented for your ratification.  The time and manner of voting on this Constitution, and of holding the first general election, are clearly set forth in the Schedule; the whole subject is therefore left for your unbiased and dellberate consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Prefect (or person exercising the functions of that office,) of each District will designate the places for opening the polls, and give due notice of the election, in accordance with the provisions of the Constitution and Schedule.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The people are now called upon to form a government for themselves, and to designate such officers as they desire to make and execute the laws.  That their choice may be wisely made, and that the government so organised may secure the permanent welfare and happiness of the people of the new State, is the sincere and earnest wish of the present Executive, who, if the Constitution be ratified, will, with pleasure, surrender his powers to whomsoever the people may designate as his successor.<LB>Given at Monterey, California, this 12th day of October, A.D., 1849.<LB>B. RILEY,<HI REND="italics">Bvt. Brig. Gen'l U.S.A. and Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:.<LB>OFFICIAL: H. W. HALLECK,<HI REND="italics">Brev. Capt. and Secretary of State</HI>
196.sgm:.<HI REND="italics">WE, the People of California, grateful to Almighty God for our freedom, in order to secure its blessings, do establish this Constitution</HI>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE I.<LB><HI REND="italics">Declaration of Rights</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 1.  All men are by nature free and independent, and have certain inalienable rights, among which are those of enjoying and defending life and liberty, acquiring, possessing, and protecting property: and pursuing and obtaining safety and happiness.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  All political power is inherent in the people.  Government is instituted for the protection, security, and benefit of the people; and they have the right to alter or reform the same, whenever the public good may require it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 3.  The right of trial by jury shall be secured to all, and remain inviolate forever; but a jury trial may be waved by the parties, in all civil cases, in the manner to be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 4.  The free exercise and enjoyment of religious profession and worship, without discrimination or preference, shall forever be allowed in this State: and no person shall be rendered incompetent to be a witness on account of his opinions on matters of religious belief; but the liberty of conscience, hereby secured, shall not be so construed as to excuse acts of licentiousness, or justify practiccs inconsistent with the peace or safety of this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 5.  The privilege of the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 6.  Excessive bail shall not be required, nor exeessive fines imposed, nor shall cruel or unusual punishments be inflicted, nor shall witnesses be unreasonably detained.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 7.  All persons shall be bailable, by sufficient sureties: unless for capital offences, when the proof is evident or the presumption great.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 8.  No person shall be held to answer for a capital or otherwise infamous crime, (except in cases of impeachment, and in cases of militia when in actual service, and the land and naval forces in time of war, or which this State may keep with the consent of Congress in time of peace, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>484</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>IV</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 9.  Every citizen may freely speak, write, and publish his sentiments on all subjects, being responsible for the abuse of that right; and no law shall be passed to restrain or abridge the liberty of speech or of the press.  In all criminal prosecutions on indictments for libels, the truth may be given in evidence to the jury; and if it shall appear to the jury that the matter charged as libellous is true, and was published with good motives and for justifiable ends, the party shall be acquitted; and the jury shall have the right to determine the law and the fact.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 10.  The people shall have the right freely to assemble together, to consult for the common good, to instruct their representatives, and to petition the legislature for redress of grievances.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 11.  All laws of a general nature shall have a uniform operation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 12.  The military shall be subordinate to the civil power.  No standing army shall be kept up by this State in time of peace; and in time of war no appropriation for a standing army shall be for a longer time than two years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 13.  No soldier shall, in time of peace, be quartered in any house, without the consent of the owner; nor in time of war, except in the manner to be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 14.  Representation shall be apportioned according to population.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 15.  No person shall be imprisoned for debt, in any civil action on <HI REND="italics">mesne</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 16.  No bill of attainder, <HI REND="italics">ex post facto</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 17.  Foreigners who are, or who may hereafter become <HI REND="italics">bona fide</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 18.  Neither slavery, nor involuntary servitude, unless for the punishment of crimes, shall ever be tolerated in this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 19.  The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses, papers and effects, against unreasonable seizures and searches, shall not be violated; and no warrant shall issue but on probable cause, supported by oath or affirmation, particularly describing the place to be searched, and the persons and things to be seized.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 20.  Treason against the State shall consist only in levying war against it, adhering to its enemies, or giving them aid and comfort.  No person shall be convicted of treason, unless on the evidence of two witnesses to the same overt act, or confession in open court.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 21.  This enumeration of rights shall not be construed to impair or deny others retained by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE II.<LB><HI REND="italics">Right of Suffrage</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 1.  Every white male citizen of the United States, and every white male citizen of Mexico, who shall have elected to become a citizen of the United States, under the treaty of peace exchanged and ratified at Queretaro, on the 30th day of May, 1848, of the age of twenty-one years, who shall have been a resident of the State six months next preceding the election, and the county or district in which he claims his vote thirty days, shall be entitled to vote at all elections which are now or hereafter may be authorized by law: Provided, that nothing herein contained, shall be construed to prevent the Legislature, by a two-thirds concurrent vote, from admitting to the right of suffrage, Indians or the descendants of Indians, in such special cases as such a proportion of the legislative body may deem just and proper.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  Electors shall, in all cases except treason, felony, or breach of the peace, be privileged from arrest on the days of the election, during their attendance at such election, going to and returning therefrom.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 3.  No elector shall be obliged to perform militia duty on the day of election, except in time of war or public danger.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 4.  For the purpose of voting, no person shall be deemed to have gained or lost a residence by reason of his presence or absence while employed in the service of the United States; nor while engaged in the navigation of the waters of this State, or of the United States, or of the high seas; nor while a student of any seminary of learning; nor while kept at any almshouse, or other asylum, at public expense; nor while confined in any public prison.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 5.  No idiot or insane person, or person convicted of any infamous crime, shall be entitled to the privileges of an elector.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 6.  All elections by the people shall be by ballot.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>485</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>V</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE III.<LB><HI REND="italics">Distribution of Powers</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The powers of the Government of the State of California shall be divided into three separate departments: the Legislative, the Executive, and Judicial; and no person charged with the exercise of powers properly belonging to one of these departments, shall exercise any functions appertaining to either of the others, except in the cases hereinafter expressly directed or permitted.</P>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE IV.<LB><HI REND="italics">Legislative Department</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 1.  The Legislative power of this State shall be vested in a Senate and Assembly, which shall be designated the Legislature of the State of California; and the enacting clause of every law shall be as follows: "The people of the State of California, represented in Senate and Assembly, do enact as follows."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  The sessions of the Legislature shall be annual, and shall commence on the first Monday of January, next ensuing the election of its members, unless the Governor of the State shall, in the interim, convene the Legislature by proclamation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 3.  The members of the Assembly shall be chosen annually, by the qualified electors of their respective districts, on the Tuesday next after the first Monday in November, unless otherwise ordered by the Legislature, and their term of office shall be one year.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 4.  Senators and Members of Assembly shall be duly qualified electors in the respective counties and districts which they represent.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 5.  Senators shall be chosen for the term of two years, at the same time and places as Members of Assembly; and no person shall be a member of the Senate or Assembly, who has not been a citizen and inhabitant of the State one year, and of the country of district for which he shall be chosens six months next beforo his election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 6.  The number of Senators shall not be less than one-third, nor more than one-half, of that of the Members of Assembly; and at the first session of the Legislature after this Constitution takes effect, the Senators shall be divided by lot as equally as may be, into two classes; the seats of the Senators of the first class shall be vacated at the expiration of the first year, so that one-half shall be chosen annually.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 7.  When the number of Senators is increased, they shall be apportioned by lot, so as to keep the two classes as nearly equal in number as possible.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 8.  Each house shall choose its own officers and judge of the qualifications, elections, and returns of its own members.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 9.  A majority of each house shall constitute a quorum to do business; but a smaller number may adjourn from day to day, and may compel the attendance of absent members, in such manner, and under such penalties, as each house may provide.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 10.  Each house shall determine the rules of its own proceedings, and may, with the concurrence of two thirds of all the members elected, expel a member.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 11.  Each house shall keep a journal of its own proceedings, and publish the same; and the yeas and nays of the members of either house, on any question, shall at the desire of any three members present be entered on the journal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 12.  Members of the Legislature shall, in all cases except treason, felony, and breach of the peace, be privileged from arrest, and they shall not be subject to any civil process during the session of the Legislature, nor for fifteen days next before the commencement and after the termination of each session.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 13.  When vacancies occur in either house, the Governor, or the person exercising the functions of the Governor, shall issue writs of election to fill such vacancies.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 14.  The doors of each house shall be open, except on such occasions as, in the opinion of the House, may require secrecy.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 15.  Neither house shall, without the consent of the other, adjourn for more than three days, nor to any other place than that in which they may be sitting.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 16.  Any bill may originate in either house of the Legislature, and all bills passed by one house may be amended in the other.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 17.  Every bill which may have passed the Legislature, shall, before it becomes a law, be presented to the Governor.  If he approve it, he shall sign it; but if not, he shall return it, with his objections, to the house in which it originated, which shall enter the same upon the journal, and proceed to reconsider it.  If, after such reconsideration, it again pass both houses, by yeas and nays, by a majority of two-thirds of the members of each house present, it shall become a law, notwithstanding the Governor's objections.  If any shall not be returned within ten days after it shall have been presented to him, (Sunday excepted,) the same shall be a law, in like manner as if he had signed it, unless the Legislature, by adjournment, prevent such return.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>486</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>VI</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 18.  The Assembly shall have the sole power of impeachment; and all impeachments shall be tried by the Senate.  When sitting for that purpose, the Senators shall be upon oath or affirmation; and no person shall be convicted, without the concurrence of two-thirds of the members present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 19.  The Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Secretary of State, Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General, Surveyor General, Justices of the Supreme Court and Judges of the District Courts, shall be liable to impeachment for any misdemeanor in office; but judgment in such cases shall extend only to removal from office, and disqualification to hold any office of honor, trust or profit, under the State; but the party convicted, or acquitted, shall nevertheless, be liable to indictment, trial, and punishment, according to law.  All other civil officers shall be tried, for misdemeanors in office, in such manner as the Legislature may provide.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 20.  No Senator, or member of Assembly, shall, during the term for which he shall have been elected, be appointed to any civil office of profit, under this State, which shall have been created, or the emoluments of which shall have been increased, during such term, except such office as may be filled by elections by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 21.  No person holding any lucrative office under the United States, or any other power, shall be eligible to any civil office of profit, under this State: provided, that officers in the militia, to which there is attached no annual salary, or local officers and postmasters whose compensation does not exceed five hundred dollars per annum, shall not be deemed lucrative.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 22.  No person who shall be convicted of the embezzlement, or defalcation of the public funds of this State, shall ever be eligible to any office of honor, trust, or profit under this State; and the Legislature shall, as soon as practicable, pass a law providing for the punishment of such embezzlement, or defalcation, as a felony.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 23.  No money shall be drawn from the treasury but in consequence of appropriations made by law.  An accurate statement of the receipts and expenditures of the public moneys, shall be attached to and published with the laws at every regular session of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 24.  The members of the Legislature shall receive for their services, a compensation to be fixed by law, and paid out of the public treasury; but no increase of the compensation shall take effect during the term for which the members of either house shall have been elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 25.  Every law enacted by the Legislature shall embrace but one object, and that shall be expressed in the title; and no law shall be revised, or amended, by reference to its title; but in such case, the act revised, or section amended shall be re-enacted and published at length.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 26.  No divorce shall be granted by the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 27.  No lottery shall be authorized by this State, nor shall the sale of lottery tickets be allowed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 28.  The enumeration of the inhabitants of this State shall be taken, under the direction of the Legislature, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, and one thousand eight hundred and fifty-five, and at the end of every ten years thereafter; and these enumerations, together with the census that may be taken, under the direction of the Congress of the United States, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty, and every subsequent ten years, shall serve as the basis of representation in both houses of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 29.  The number of Senators and members of Assembly, shall, at the first session of the Legislature, holden after the enumerations herein provided for are made, be fixed by the Legislature, and apportioned among the several counties and districts to be established by law, according to the number of white inhabitants.  The number of members of Assembly shall not be less than twenty four, nor more than thirty-six, until the number of inhabitants within this State, shall amount to one hundred thousand; and after that period, at such ratio that the whole number of members of Assembly shall never be less than thirty, nor more than eighty.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 30.  When a congressional, senatorial, or assembly district, shall be composed of two or more counties, it shall not be separated by any county belonging to another district; and no county shall be divided, in forming a congressional, senatorial, or assembly district.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 31.  Corporations may be formed under general laws, but shall not be created by special act, except for municipal purposes.  All general laws and special acts passed pursuant to this section may be altered from time to time, or repealed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 32.  Dues from corporations shall be secured by such individual liability of the corporators, and other means, as may be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 33.  The term corporations as used in this article shall be construed to include all associations and joint-stock companies, having any of the powers or privileges of corporations not possessed by individuals or partnerships.  And all corporations shall have the right to sue, and shall be subject to be sued, in all courts, in like cases as natural persons.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 34.  The Legislature shall have no power to pass any act granting any charter for banking purposes; but associations may be formed, under general laws, for the deposite of gold and silver, but no such association shall make, issue, or put in circulation, any bill, check, ticket, certificate, promissory note, or other paper, or the paper of any bank, to circulate as money.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 35.  The Legislature of this State shall prohibit, by law, any person or persons, association, company, or corporation, from exercising the privileges of banking, or creating paper to circulate as money.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>487</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>VII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 36.  Each stockholder of a corporation, or joint-stock association, shall be individually and personally liable for his proportion of all its debts and liabilities.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 37.  It shall be the duty of the Legislature to provide for the organization of cities and incorporated villages, and to restrict their power of taxation, assessment, borrowing money, contracting debts, and loaning their credit, so as to prevent abuses in assessments and in contracting debts by such municipal corporations.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 38.  In all elections by the Legislature, the members thereof shall vote <HI REND="italics">viva voce</HI>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE V.<LB><HI REND="italics">Executive Department</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 1.  The supreme executive power of this State shall be vested in a Chief Magistrate, who shall be styled the Governor of the State of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  The Governor shall be elected by the qualified electors, at the time and places of voting for members of Assembly, and shall hold his office two years from the time of his installation, and until his successor shall be qualified.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 3.  No person shall be eligible to the office of Governor, (except at the first election) who has not been a citizen of the United States and a resident of this State two years next preceding the election, and attained the age of twenty-five years at the time of said election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 4.  The returns of every election for Governor shall be sealed up and transmitted to the seat of government, directed to the speaker of the Assembly, who shall, during the first week of the session, open and publish them in presence of both houses of the Legislature.  The person having the highest number of votes shall be Governor; but in case any two or more have an equal and the highest number of votes, the Legislature shall, by joint vote of both houses, choose one of said persons, so having an equal and the highest number of votes, for Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 5.  The Governor shall be commander-in-chief of the militia, the army and navy of this State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 6.  He shall transact all executive business with the officers of Government, civil and military, and may require information in writing from the officers of the executive department, upon any subject relating to the duties of their respective offices.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 7.  He shall see that the laws are faithfully executed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 8.  When any office shall, from any cause become vacant, and no mode is provided by the Constitution and laws for filling such vacancy, the Governor shall have power to fill such vacancy by granting a commission, which shall expire at the end of the next session of the Legislature, or at the next election by the people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 9.  He may, on extraordinary occasions, convene the Legislature by proclamation, and shall state to both houses, when assembled, the purpose for which they shall have been convened.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 10.  He shall communicate by message to the Legislature, at every session, the condition of the State, and recommend such matters as he shall deem expedient.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 11.  In case of a disagreement between the two houses, with respect to the time of adjournment, the Governor shall have power to adjourn the Legislature to such time as he may think proper; provided, it be not beyond the time fixed for the meeting of the next Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 12.  No person shall, while holding any office under the United States, or this State, exercise the office of Governor, except as hereinafter expressly provided.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 13.  The Governor shall have the power to grant reprieves and pardons after conviction, for all offences except treason and cases of impeachment, upon such conditions, and with such restrictions and limitations, as he may think proper, subject to such regulations as may be provided by law relative to the manner of applying for pardons.  Upon conviction for treason he shall have the power to suspend the execution of the sentence until the case shall be reported to the Legislature at its next meeting, when the Legislature shall either pardon, direct the execution of the sentence, or grant a further reprieve.  He shall communicate to the Legislature, at the beginning of every session, every case of reprieve or pardon granted, stating the name of the convict, the crime of which he was convicted, the sentence, and its date, and the date of the pardon or reprieve.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 14.  There shall be a seal of this State, which shall be kept by the Governor, and used by him officially, and shall be called "The great seal of the State of California."</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 15.  All grants and commissions shall be in the name and by the authority of the people of the State of California, sealed with the great seal of the State, signed by the Governor and countersigned by the Secretary of State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 16.  A Lieutenant Governor shall be elected at the same time and places, and in the same manner as the Governor; and his term of office, and his qualifications of elegibility shall also be the same.  He shall be President of the Senate, but shall only have a casting vote therein.  If, during a vacancy of the office of Governor, the Lieutenant Governor shall be impeached, displaced, resign, die or become incapable of performing the duties of his office, or be absent from the State, the President of the Senate shall act as Governor, until the vacancy be filled, or the disability shall cease.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>488</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>VIII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 17.  In case of the impeachment of the Governor, or his removal from office, death, inability to discharge the powers and duties of the said office, resignation, or absence from the State, the powers and duties of the office shall devolve upon the Lieutenant Governor for the residue of the term, or until the disability shall cease.  But when the Governor shall, with the consent of the Legislature, be out of the State in time of war, at the head of any military force thereof, he shall continue commander-in-chief of the military force of the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 18.  A Secretary of State, a Comptroller, a Treasurer, an Attorney General, and Surveyor General, shall be chosen in the manner provided in this Constitution; and the term of office, and elegibility of each shall be the same as are prescribed for the Governor and Lieutenant Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 19.  The Secretary of State shall be appointed by the Governor, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate.  He shall keep a fair record of the official acts of the legislative and executive departments of the Government, and shall, when required, lay the same, and all matters relative thereto, before either branch of the Legislature; and shall perform such other duties as shall be assigned him by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 20.  The Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General, and Surveyor General, shall be chosen by joint vote of the two houses of the Legislature, at their first session under this Constitution, and thereafter shall be elected at the same time and places, and in the same manner as the Governor and Lieutenant Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 21.  The Governor, Lieutenant Governor, Secretary of State, Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General, and Surveyor General, shall each at stated times during their continuance in office, receive for their services a compensation, which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they shall have been elected; but neither of these officers shall receive for his own use any fees for the performance of his official duties.</P>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE VI.<LB><HI REND="italics">Judicial Department.</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec.  1.  The judicial power of this State shall be vested in a Supreme Court, in District Courts, in County Courts, and in Justices of the Peace.  The Legislature may also establish such municipal and other inferior courts as may be deemed necessary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  The Supreme Court shall consist of a Chief Justice and two Associate Justices, any two of whom shall constitute a quorum.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 3.  The Justices of the Supreme Court shall be elected at the general election, by the qualified electors of the State, and shall hold their office for the term of six years from the first day of January next after their election; provided that the Legislature shall, at its first meeting, elect a Chief Justice and two Associate Justices of the Supreme Court, by joint vote of both houses, and so classify them that one shall go out of office every two years.  After the first election the senior Justice in commission shall be the Chief Justice.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 4.  The Supreme Court shall have appellate jurisdiction in all cases when the matter in dispute exceeds two hundred dollars, when the legality of any tax, toll, or impost or municipal fine is in question, and in all criminal cases amounting to felony or questions of law alone.  And the said Court, and each of the Justices thereof, as well as all district and county judges, shall have power to issue writs of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 5.  The State shall be divided by the first Legislature into a convenient number of districts subject to such alteration from time to time as the public good may require, for each of which a district judge shall be appointed by the joint vote of the Legislature, at its first meeting, who shall hold his office for two years from the first day of January next after his election; after which, said judges shall be elected by the qualified electors of their respective districts, at the general election, and shall hold their office for the term of six years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 6.  The District Courts shall have original jurisdiction, in law and equity, in all civil cases where the amount in dispute exceeds two hundred dollars, exclusive of interest.  In all criminal cases not otherwise provided for, and in all issues of fact joined in the probate courts, their jurisdiction shall be unlimited.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 7.  The Legislature shall provide for the election, by the people, of a Clerk of the Supreme Court, and County Clerks, District Attorneys, Sheriffs, Coroners, and other necessary officers; and shall fix by law their duties and compensation.  County Clerks shall be, <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 8.  There shall be elected in each of the organized counties of this State, on County Judge, who shall hold his office for four years.  He shall hold the County Court, and perform the duties of Surrogate, or Probate Judge.  The County Judge, with two Justices of the Peace, to be designated according to law, shall hold courts of sessions, with such criminal jurisdiction as the Legislature shall prescribe, and he shall perform such other duties as shall be required by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 9.  The County Courts shall have such jurisdiction, in cases arising in Justices Courts, and in special cases, as the Legislature may prescribe, but shall have no original civil jurisdiction, except in such special cases.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>489</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>IX</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 10.  The times and places of holding the terms of the Supreme Court, and the general and special terms of the District Courts within the several districts, shall be provided for by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 11.  No judicial officer, except a Justice of the Peace, shall receive, to his own use, any fees or perquisites of office.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 12.  The Legislature shall provide for the speedy publication of all statute laws, and of such judicial decisions as it may deem expedient; and all laws and judicial decisions shall be free for publication by any person.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 13.  Tribunals for conciliation may be established, with such powers and duties as may be prescribed by law; but such tribunals shall have no power to render judgment to be obligatory on the parties, except they voluntarily submit their matters in difference, and agree to abide the judgment, or assent thereto in the presence of such tribunal, in such cases as shall be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 14.  The Legislature shall determine the number of Justices of the Peace, to be elected in each county, city, town, and incorporated village of the State, and fix by law their powers, duties, and responsibilities.  It shall also determine in what cases appeals may be made from Justices' Courts to the County Court.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 15.  The Justices of the Supreme Court, and Judges of the District Court, shall severally, at stated times during their continuance in office, receive for their services a compensation, to be paid out of the treasury, which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they shall have been elected.  The county Judges shall also severally, at stated times, receive for their services a compensation to be paid out of the county treasury of their respective counties, which shall not be increased or diminished during the term for which they shall have been elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 16.  The Justices of the Supreme Court and District Judges shall be ineligible to any other office, during the term for which they shall have been elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 17.  Judges shall not charge juries with respect to matters of fact, but may state the testimony and declare the law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 18.  The style of all process shall be "The People of the State of California;" all the prosecutions shall be conducted in the name and by the authority of the same.</P>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE VII.<LB><HI REND="italics">Militia</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 1.  The Legislature shall provide by law for organising and disciplining the militia, in such manner as they shall deem expedient, not incompatible with the Constitution and laws of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  Officers of the militia shall be elected, or appointed, in such a manner as the Legislature shall from time to time direct, and shall be commissioned by the governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 3.  The governor shall have power to call forth the militia, to execute the laws of the State, to suppress insurrections, and repel invasions.</P>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE VIII.<LB><HI REND="italics">State Debts</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature shall not in any manner create any debt or debts, liability or liabilities, which shall singly, or in the aggregate, with any previous debts or liabilities, exceed the sum of three hundred thousand dollars, except in case of war, to repel invasion or suppress insurrection, unless the same shall be authorised by some law for some single object or work, to be distinctly specified therein, which law shall provide ways and means, exclusive of loans, for the payment of the interest of such debt or liability, as it falls due, and also pay and discharge the principal of such debt or liability within twenty years from the time of the contracting thereof, and shall be irrepealable until the principal and interest thereon shall be paid and discharged; but no such law shall take effect until, at a general election, it shall have been submitted to the people, and have received a majority of all the votes cast for and against it at such election; and all money raised by authority of such law, shall be applied only to the specific object therein stated, or to the payment of the debt thereby created; and such law shall be published in at least one newspaper in each judicial district, if one be published therein, throughout the State, for three months next preceding the election at which it is submitted to the people.</P>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE IX.<LB><HI REND="italics">Education</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. l.  The Legislature shall provide for the election, by the people, of a superintendent of public instruction, who shall hold his office for three years, and whose duties shall be prescribed by law, and who shall receive such compensation as the Legislature may direct.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>490</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>X</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  The Legislature shall encourage, by all suitable means, the promotion of intellectual, scientific, moral and agricultural improvement.  The proceeds of all land that may be granted by the United States to this State for the support of schools, which may be sold or disposed of, and the five hundred thousand acres of land granted to the new States, under an act of Congress distributing the proceeds of the public lands among the several States of the Union, approved A.D. 1841; and all estates of deceased persons who may have died without leaving a will, or heir, and also such per cent. as may be granted by Congress on the sale of lands in this State, shall be and remain a perpetual fund, the interest of which, together with all the rents of the unsold lands, and such other means as the Legislature may provide, shall be inviolably appropriated to the support of common schools throughout the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 3.  The Legislature shall provide for a system of common schools, by which a school shall be kept up and supported in each district at least three months in every year, and any school neglecting to keep and support such a school, may be deprived of its proportion of the interest of the public fund during such neglect.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 4.  The Legislature shall take measures for the protection, improvement, or other disposition of such lands as have been, or may hereafter be reserved or granted by the United States, or any person or persons to the State for the use of a University; and the funds accruing from the rents or sale of such lands, or from any other source for the purpose aforesaid, shall be and remain a permanent fund, the interest of which shall be applied to the support of said University, with such branches as the public convenience may demand, for the promotion of literature, the arts and sciences, as may be authorised by the terms of such grant.  And it shall be the duty of the Legislature, as soon as may be, to provide effectual means for the improvement and permanent security of the funds of said University.</P>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE X.<LB><HI REND="italics">Mode of Amending and Revising the Constitution</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 1.  Any amendment, or amendments to this Constitution, may be proposed in the Senate or Assembly; and if the same shall be agreed to by a majority of the members elected to each of the two houses, such proposed amendment or amendments, shall be entered on their journals, with the yeas and nays taken thereon, and referred to the Legislature then next to be chosen, and shall be published for three months next preceding the time of making such choice.  And if, in the Legislature next chosen as aforesaid, such proposed amendment or amendments, shall be agreed to by a majority of all the members elected to each house, then it shall be the duty of the Legislature to submit such proposed amendment or amendments to the people, in such manner, and at such time as the Legislature shall prescribe; and if the people shall approve and ratify such amendment or amendments, by a majority of the electors qualified to vote for members of the Legislature, voting thereon, such amendment or amendments, shall become part of the Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  And if, at any time two-thirds of the Senate and Assembly shall think it necessary to revise and change this entire Constitution, they shall recommend to the electors, at the next election for members of the Legislature, to vote for or against the convention; and if it shall appear that a majority of the electors voting at such election have voted in favor of calling a convention, the Legislature shall, at its next session, provide by law for calling a convention, to be holden within six months after the passage of such law; and such convention shall consist of a number of members not less than that of both branches of the Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE XI.<LB><HI REND="italics">Miscellaneous Provisions</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 1.  The first session of the Legislature shall be held at the Pueblo de San Jose; which place shall be the permanent seat of government, until removed by law: Provided, however, that that two-thirds of all the members elected to each house of the Legislature shall concur in the passage of such law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  Any citizen of this State who shall, after the adoption of this Constitution, fight a duel with deadly weapons, or send, or accept a challenge to fight a duel with deadly weapons, either within this State or out of it; or who shall act as second, or knowingly aid or assist in any manner those thus offending, shall not be allowed to hold any office of profit, or to enjoy the right of suffrage under this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 3.  Members of the Legislature, and all officers, executive and judicial, except such inferior officers as may be by law exempted, shall, before they enter on the duties of their respective offices, take and subscribe the following oath or affirmation:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"I do solemnly swear (or affirm, as the case may be,) that I will support the Constitution of the United States, and the Constitution of the State of California, and that I will faithfully discharge the duties of the office of --, according to the best of my ability."</P>
196.sgm:<P>And no other oath, declaration, or test, shall be required as a qualification for any office or public trust.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>491</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XI</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 4.  The Legislature shall establish a system of county and town governments, which shall be as nearly uniform as practicable, throughout the State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 5.  The Legislature shall have power to provide for the election of a board of supervisors in each county; and these supervisors shall jointly and individually perform such duties as may be prescribed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 6.  All officers whose election or appointment is not provided for by this Constitution, and all officers whose offices may hereafter be created by law, shall be elected by the people, or appointed as the Legislature may direct.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 7.  When the duration of any office is not provided for by this Constitution, it may be declared by law, and if not so declared by law, and if not so declared, such office shall be held during the pleasure of the authority making the appointment; nor shall the duration of any office not fixed by this Constitution ever exceed four years.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 8.  The fiscal year shall commence on the 1st day of July.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 9.  Each county, town, city, and incorporated village, shall make provision for the support of its own officers, subject to such restrictions and regulations as the Legislature may prescribe.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 10.  The credit of the State shall not, in any manner, be given or loaned to or in aid of any individual, association, or corporation; nor shall the State directly or indirectly become a stockholder in any association or corporation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 11.  Suits may be brought against the State in such manner, and in such courts, as shall be directed by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 12.  No contract of marriage, if otherwise duly made, shall be invalidated for want of conformity to the requirements of any religious sect.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 13.  Taxation shall be equal and uniform throughout the State.  All property in this State shall be taxed in proportion to its value, to be ascertained as directed by law; but assessors and collectors of town, county, and State taxes shall, be elected by the qualified electors of the district, county, or town, in which the property taxed for State, county, or town purposes is situated.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 14.  All property, both real and personal, of the wife, owned or claimed by marriage, and that acquired afterwards by gift, devise, or descent, shall be her separate property; and laws shall be passed more clearly defining the rights of the wife, in relation as well to her separate property, as to that held in common with her husband.  Laws shall also be passed providing for the registration of the wife's separate property.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 15.  The Legislature shall protect by law, from forced sale, a certain portion of the homestead and other property of all heads of families.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 16.  No perpetuities shall be allowed, except for eleemosynary purposes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 17.  Every person shall be disqualified from holding any office of profit in this State, who shall have been convicted of having given, or offered a bribe, to procure his election or appointment.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 18.  Laws shall be made to exclude from office, serving on juries, and from the right of suffrage, those who shall hereafter be convicted of bribery, perjury, forgery, or other high crimes.  The privilege of free suffrage shall be supported by laws regulating elections, and prohibiting, under adequate penalties, all undue influence thereon from power, bribery, tumult, or other improper practice.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 19.  Absence from this State on business of the State, or of the United States, shall not affect the question of residence of any person.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 20.  A plurality of the votes given at an election shall constitute a choice, where not otherwise directed in this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 21.  All laws, decrees, regulations, and provisions, which from their nature require publication, shall be published in English and Spanish.</P>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ARTICLE XII.<LB><HI REND="italics">Boundary</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The Boundary of the State of California shall be as follows:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Commencing at the point of intersection of 42d degree of north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude west from Greenwich, and running south on the line of said 120th degree of west longitude until it intersects the 39th degree of north latitude; thence running in a straight line in a south easterly direction to the River Colorado, at a point where it intersects the 35th degree of north latitude; thence down the middle of the channel of said river, to the boundary line between the United States and Mexico, as established by the Treaty of May 30th, 1848; thence running west and along said boundary line to the Pacific Ocean, and extending therein three English miles; thence running in a northwesterly direction, and following the direction of the Pacific Coast to the 42d degree of north latitude, thence on the line of said 42d degree of north latitude to the place of beginning.  Also all the islands, harbors, and bays, along and adjacent to the Pacific Coast.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>492</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>SCHEDULE.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 1.  All rights, prosecutions, claims and contracts, as well of individuals as of bodies corporate, and all laws in force at the time of the adoption of this Constitution, and not inconsistent therewith, until altered or repealed by the Legislature, shall continue as if the same had not been adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 2.  The Legislature shall provide for the removal of all causes which may be pending when this Constitution goes into effect, to courts created by the same.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 3.  In order that no inconvenience may result to the public service, from the taking effect of this Constitution, no office shall be superceded thereby, nor the laws relative to the duties of the several officers be changed, until the entering into office of the new officers to be appointed under this Constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 4.  The provisions of this Constitution concerning the term of residence necessary to enable persons to hold certain offices therein mentioned, shall not be held to apply to officers chosen by the people at the first election, or by the Legislature at its first session.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 5.  Every citizen of California, declared a legal voter by this Constitution, and every citizen of the United States, a resident of this State on the day of election, shall be entitled to vote at the first general election under this Constitution, and on the question of the adoption thereof.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 7.  If this Constitution shall be ratified by the people of California, the Executive of the existing government is hereby requested immediately after, the same shall be ascertained, in the manner herein directed, to cause a fair copy thereof to be forwarded to the President of the United States, in order that he may lay it before the Congress of the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 8.  At the general election aforesaid, viz: the thirteenth day of November next, there shall be elected a Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, members of the Legislature, and also two Members of Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 9.  If this Constitution shall be ratified by the People of California, the Legislature shall assemble at the seat of government on the fifteenth day of December next, and in order to complete the organization of that body, the Senate shall elect a President <HI REND="italics">pro tempore</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 10.  On the organization of the Legislature, it shall be the duty of the Secretary of State, to lay before each house, a copy of the abstract made by the board of canvassers, and if called for, the original returns of election, in order that each house may judge of the correctness of the report of said board of canvassers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 11.  The Legislature, at its first session, shall elect such officers as may be ordereded by this Constitution, to be elected by that body, and within four days after it organization, proceed to elect two Senators to the Congress of the United States.  But no law passed by this Legislature shall take effect until signed by the Governor after his installation into office.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 12.  The Senators and Representatives to the Congress of the United States, elected by the Legislature and People of California, as herein directed, shall be furnished with certified copies <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>493</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XIII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 13.  All officers of this State, other than members of the Legislature, shall be installed into office on the fifteenth day of December next, or as soon thereafter as practicable.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 14.  Until the Legislature shall divide the State into counties, and senatorial and assembly districts, as directed by this Constitution, the following shall be the apportionment of the two houses of the Legislature, viz:  the districts of San Diego and Los Angelos, shall jointly elect two senators; the districts of Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo, shall jointly elect one senator; the district of Monterey, one senator; the district of San Jose, one senator; the district of San Francisco, two senators; the district of Sonoma, one senator; the district of Sacramento, four senators; and the district of San Joaquin, four senators.  And the district of San Diego shall elect one member of assembly; the district of Los Angelos, two members of assembly; the district of Santa Barbara, two members of assembly; the district of San Luis Obispo, one member of assembly; the district of Monterey, two members of assembly; the district of San Jose, three members of assembly; the district of San Francisco, five members of assembly; the district of Sonoma, two members of assembly; the district of Sacramento, nine members of assembly; and the district of San Joaquin nine members of assembly.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 15.  Until the Legislature shall otherwise direct, in accordance with the provisions of this Constitution, the salary of the Governor shall be ten thousand dollars per annum; and the salary of the Lieutenant-Governor shall be double the pay of a State senator; and the pay of members of the Legislature shall be sixteen dollars per diem, while in attendance, and sixteen dollars for every twenty miles travel by the usual route from their residences, to the place of holding the session of the Legislature, and in returning therefrom.  And the Legislature shall fix the salaries of all officers, other than those elected by the people, at the first election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Sec. 16.  The limitation of the powers of the Legislature, contained in article 8th of this Con???tution, shall not extend to the first Legislature elected under the same, which is hereby authorised to negotiate for such amount as may be necessary to pay the expenses of the State Government.</P>
196.sgm:<DIV><P>R. SEMPLE,<HI REND="italics">President of the Convention, and Delegate from Benicia</HI>
196.sgm:.<LB>WM. G. MARCY, <HI REND="italics">Secretary</HI>
196.sgm:.<LB>J. ARAM,<LB>C. T. BOTTS,<LB>E. BROWN,<LB>J. A. CARRILLO,<LB>J. M. COVARRUBIAS,<LB>E. O. CROSBY,<LB>P. DE LA GUERRA,<LB>L. DENT,<LB>M. DOMINGUEZ,<LB>K. H. DIMMICK,<LB>A. J. ELLIS,<LB>S. C. FOSTER,<LB>E. GILBERT,<LB>W. M. GWIN,<LB>H. W. HALLECK,<LB>JULIAN HANKS,<LB>L. W. HASTINGS,<LB>HENRY HILL,<LB>J. HOBSON,<LB>J. McH. HOLLINSWORTH,<LB>J. D. HOPPE,<LB>J. M. JONES,<LB>T. O. LARKIN,<LB>FRANCIS J. LIPPITT,<LB>B. S. LIPPINCOTT,<LB>M. M. McCARVER,<LB>JOHN McDOUGAL,<LB>B. F. MOORE,<LB>MYRON NORTON,<LB>P. ORD,<LB>MIGUEL PEDRORENA,<LB>A. M. PICO,<LB>R. M. PRICE,<LB>HUGO REID,<LB>JACINTO RODRIGUEZ,<LB>PEDRO SANSEVAINE,<LB>W. E. SHANNON,<LB>W. S. SHERWOOD,<LB>J. R. SNYDER,<LB>A. STEARNS,<LB>W. M. STEUART,<LB>J. A. SUTTER,<LB>HENRY A. TEFFT,<LB>S. L. VERMULE,<LB>M. G. VALLEJO,<LB>J. WALKER,<LB>O. M. WOZENCRAFT.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>494</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>>MEMORIAL.  <HI REND="italics">To the Honorable the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The undersigned, Senators and Representatives elect from the State of California, have the honor, in pursuance of a requirement in the Constitution recently adopted by her people for her government as a State, to lay before your honorable bodies certified copies of said Constitution, together with their credentials, and to request "in the name of the people of California, the admission of the State of California into the American Union."</P>
196.sgm:<P>In performing this duty, the undersigned deem it but just to state that they have learned with astonishment and sincere regret, since their arrival in the City of Washington, of the existence of an organized, respectable, and talented opposition to the admission of the new State which they have the distinguished honor to represent.  This opposition is so unexpected, so important in numbers and ability, and so decided in its sectional character, that they feel they should do injustice to their constituents, to the cause of good government, and to the progressive advance of freedom and civilization, did they not at least attempt an answer to the many arguments urged against the admission of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The undersigned, therefore, fully aware that much ignorance, misapprehension, and misconception exists in the public mind of the Atlantic States relative to their country, its citizens, and the proceedings by which a State Government has been recently formed there, and deeply sorrowful that false charges should have been made against the character, intelligence, and virtue of their constituents, have deemed it obligatory upon them, in presenting in a formal manner the request of the State of California for admission into the American Union, that they should, by a narration of facts, at once and forever silence those who have disregarded the obligations of courtesy and all the rules of justice, by ungenerous insinuations, unfair deductions, false premises, and unwarranted conclusions.  They believe that in so doing they will carry out the wishes of those who have commissioned them, and contribute to the true history of this important political era; while they ardently desire and hope that they may thereby be enabled to exert a happy influence in allaying that intense excitement which now menaces the perpetuity of the Republic, and all the dearest hopes of freedom.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In pursuance of this determination, the undersigned have thought it proper to present, as briefly as possible, an outline of the history of the country, from its conquest by the American forces to the adoption of her present Constitution and the erection of a State Government.  In order to do this satisfactorily, it is not believed to be necessary to dwell at length upon the details of the early history, but simply to state that the first emigration of Americans into California in any considerable numbers, occurred during the summer and fall of the year 1846.  This emigration, which is believed not to have exceeded 500 persons, constituted the basis from which sprung the train of causes which led to the ultimate subjugation of the country.  The particulars of those events are presumed to be familiar to the members of each of your honorable bodies, and generally understood by the public at large, and the undersigned therefore pass over the history of the revolutionary and military operations which resulted in the establishment of Col. Richard B. Mason as the military, and <HI REND="italics">ex officio</HI>
196.sgm:<P>At that time the American forces held possession of the whole of what was then denominated Upper California, and were posted at different points, in small detachments, from Sutter's Fort in the north to the town of San Diego in the south.  The Pacific squadron of the Navy of the United States, under the command of Commodore Shubrick, was then upon the coast, and its vessels were at anchor in the different harbors of the country.  The country was quiet, and the population orderly, industrious, intelligent, and enterprising.  From the time that the united forces of American emigrant volunteers under Col. Fremont, and the United States naval forces under Commodore Sloat had raised the American standard throughout the country, the supreme authorities had collected in all the ports of California a revenue from imports.  This, with other slight cases of individual severity and infringement by the military and naval commandants during the war, upon what was regarded by the American emigrants as the inherent rights of the citizen, together with a natural jealousy of military rule, which is believed to be a national characteristic, could not fail to make the military authority, which had now devolved upon Col. Mason, a source of suspicion, disagreement, and discontent.  This was more particularly the case in regard to the American inhabitants, who had now become quite numerous by continued arrivals of emigrants, both by sea and land; but the feeling was also participated in, to a great extent, by the native citizens of the country, who were further influenced by the chagrin, hatred, and uncertainty which is sure to fill the breasts of a subjugated but courageous people.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>495</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XV</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Even at this early day the subject of the establishment of a <HI REND="italics">Civil Territorial Government</HI>
196.sgm:<P>In the month of October, 1847, the Military Contribution Tariff, promulgated by the then President of the United States, was established in the ports of California.  The custom-houses, which theretofore had remained in the hands of citizens who accounted to the Military Governor, or the Commodore of the Pacific Squadron; were now filled by army or navy officers.  This tariff was justly but rigorously enforced; and, though its provisions bore so oppressively upon the country as to add slightly to the causes and feeling of discontent, no opposition was manifested.  Indeed, during this whole time, although the evils and difficulties under which the country suffered were manifold, we believe no single instance can be found of unlawful or riotous resistance to the constituted authorities.</P>
196.sgm:<P>But the desire for a more congenial government went on steadily increasing in that portion of the country lying around and north of the district of San Francisco.  To this feeling the arrival of the overland emigration in the fall of 1847 greatly contributed.  In the meantime, the original citizens of California had become in a measure satisfied with their position, and as the conduct of the American officers and citizens was of a courteous and upright character, they gradually became assured that there rights, property, and happiness were not likely to be destroyed by the conquerors.  Still, a degree of solicitude and suspicion preyed upon the public mind.  An uncertainty seemed to pervade the whole country, exercising a chilling and depressing effect upon its agricultural, commerce, mechanic arts, and general business relations.  The military government had continued the collection of duties under the military contribution tariff, and as a parsimonious policy of expenditure was maintained, the whole circulating medium of the country was gradually locked up in the military chest.  This exerted a paralyzing effect on the industrial and business pursuits of the whole community, and gave rise to complaints that the military power was taxing the people without allowing them a voice in the matter, and that at the same time they failed to give to the country a government in consonance with its wishes or commensurate to its wants; in other words, that after taxing the inhabitants of the country in contravention of all right, they committed the greater injustice of refusing or neglecting to expend the money so obtained in such a manner as would provide a government that would give protection to the citizen and security to his property.  California, however, went on steadily increasing in population, wealth, industry and commercial and political importance.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Such was the condition of California in April, 1848.  In that month was made the extraordinary discovery of the gold mines, and instantly the whole territory was in a blaze.  The towns were deserted by their male population, and a complete cessation of the whole industrial pursuits of the country was the consequence.  Commerce, agriculture, mechanical pursuits, professions--all were abandoned for the purpose of gathering the glittering treasures which lay buried in the ravines, the gorges, and the rivers of the Sierra Nevada.  The productive industry of the country was annihilated in a day.  In some instances the moral perceptions were blunted, and men left their families unprovided, and soldiers deserted their colors.  The desire for gold was not regulated by any of the ordinary processes of reasoning, and such was the disastrous effect of the discovery of the precious ore upon the social, business, and political interests of the country, that the high hopes which the far-seeing and patriotic had entertained of the future progress and greatness of California, were dashed at once to the ground.  A pall seemed to settle upon the country; and even the bewildered miners wondered as the result.</P>
196.sgm:<P>But the peculiar energy and the utilitarian predisposition of the American character could not long be diverted from its natural and accustomed channels, even by the glitter of gold.  Commerce slowly revived, and mechanical and professional pursuits began to assume their wonted importance, as the novelty of gold digging was dispelled by a correct understanding of the difficult and laborious nature of the pursuit.  The large emigration which was now pouring into the country from Oregon, Mexico, and the Sandwich Islands, though it added to the number of miners, contributed to the necessities which had made a diversion in favor of the sober pursuits of every day life, and a more healthy and staid condition of public opinion and business ensued.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>496</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XVI</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>At about this time (on the 7th of August, 1848) the news of peace between the republics of the United States and Mexico reached the country, and was communicated to the people in a proclamation by Governor Mason.  This proclamation, after reciting so much of the treaty as applied to California, stated that the existing laws would remain in force, and the existing officers would administer them as heretofore; and it did not fail to express the confident hope that the Congress of the United States, which was in session at the time of the ratification of the treaty, had already organised a Territorial Government, which might be expected to arrive at any moment.  Governor Mason then abolished, in pursuance with treaty stipulations, the military contribution tariff; but not deeming it advisable to abandon the collection of revenue entirely, and yet having no authority either in executive orders, law, or precedent, he declared the revenue laws of the United States in force throughout the Territory, appointed civilians to the post of collector, and received the duties into the military treasury of the department, under the distinctive appellation of the "civil fund of California."</P>
196.sgm:<P>There were those in the country at this time, and they were not few in numbers, who believed that it was the duty of Governor Mason, immediately after the reception of the news of peace, to have called upon the people to elect delegates to a Territorial Convention for the purpose of forming a <HI REND="italics">Civil Provisional Territorial Government</HI>
196.sgm:<P>But the unsettled and unstable order of things which had ensued upon the discovery of the gold mines still existed; and the dissatisfaction and discontent of the people, though quite general, failed, for this reason, to assume an organized or imposing form.  The fact that four-fifths of the male population of the country were eagerly engaged in the mines, greatly contributed to this result, and the almost universal belief that the United States Congress had before its adjournment passed a law establishing a Territorial Government, satisfied the public mind that no action on its art was then necessary.  So passed the summer and fall of 1848.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Upon the coming on of winter, the great majority of the miners returned to their homes in the towns.  They came rich in gold dust; but a single glance at the desolate and unthirfty appearance of the Territory convinced them that other pursuits than that of gold-digging must receive a proportion of their care and labor, if they wished to be really happy, and promote the true interests of the country.  They felt, as all Americans feel, that the most important step they could take, and that most imperatively called for by the wants of the inhabitants, was the establishment of a stable system of government, which would command the respect and obedience of the people whose property it protected, and whose rights it preserved.  Congress had adjourned without providing a Territorial Government, and the public had settled into the firm conviction that the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The opinions of the people, accelerated by the combined causes just enumerated, now, for the first time in the history of the country, assumed an organised form.  On the 11th day of December 1848, a large meeting of the inhabitants of the district of San Jose was held at the town of that name, at which speeches were made, committees appointed, and resolutions unanimously adopted in favor of holding a convention for the purpose of forming a <HI REND="italics">Provisional Territorial Government</HI>
196.sgm:, to be put into immediate operation, and to remain in force until Congress should discharge its duty, and supersede it by a regular Territorial organization.  The proceedings of this meeting were published and disseminated as rapidly as the means of communication would allow; and its <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>497</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XVII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<HI REND="italics">b</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The meeting held at San Jose recommended that the Convention for forming a Provisional Government should assemble at San Jose, on the second Monday of January, 1849.  The San Francisco meeting believing that day much too early to allow communication with the remote Districts--and deeming it of paramount importance that the whole Territory should be represented in the proposed Convention, recommended that it should meet on Monday, March 5.  In this recommendation of the District of San Francisco the Disrricts of Sonoma and Sacramento concurred, as did tacitly the District of San Jose.  The District of Monterey, also concurred therein, but constituted its elected Delegates a Committee to confer with the other Districts to obtain, if possible and advisable, a still further extension of the time of holding the Convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Corresponding Committee appointed by the San Francisco meeting had taken great pains to spread the intelligence of the action of the people there and in San Jose, and to request that measures be adopted to promote the cause of Provisional Government in the surrounding Districts; but the inclemency of the weather and the impassable condition of the roads and streams in consequence of the severe winter rains, had, up to January 24, 1849, prevented all communication with the five Districts above named.  The Committee received many letters and much verbal information from different sections, which finally decided them in issuing to the public on January 24, 1849, a recommendation "that the time for the proposed assembling of the Provisional Government Convention be changed from Monday, the 5th day of March, to Tuesday the 1st day of May, 1849."</P>
196.sgm:<P>As was to have been expected, this recommendation, though generally concurred in, and though the reasons by which it was supported were never attempted to be controverted, had a tendency, by creating an impression of uncertainty, to cool the ardor of those interested in the cause.  In addition to this, the recent intelligence from the Atlantic coast had given some assurance that Congress would not again adjourn without the adoption of a Territorial Government for California, and the arrival of Gen. P. F. Smith, on the 28th day of February, at San Francisco, to assume the command of the Pacific Division of the U.S. Army, was considered a favorable omen of what might be expected from the action of the cabinet and the law givers at Washington.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Notwithstanding all these obstacles, the cause of Provisional Government still progressed; and though it was now feared and foreseen that the attempt to assemble a Convention on the first of May would probably fail, yet twelve of the Delegates elected to that body met at San Francisco early in the month of March, 1849, and issued an address to the people of California.  That address, after recounting the reasons which prevented the assembling of the Convention, as originally preposed, on the 5th of March, and after reasserting the truth, that the action of a Convention which did not consist of representatives from each and every district would not be likely to meet with approval or respect from the public at large, concluded with the suggestion that "new elections should be held in the several districts for delegates to meet in convention at Monterey, on the first Monday in August next;" and that those delegates "should be vested with full power to frame a State Constitution to be submitted to the people of California; and further staing their belief that the circumstances and wants of the country were "such as to requre the immediate formation of a State Constitution, and entitle us to a right to be admitted into that Union of sovereign States, which we trust will ever be `distinct as the billows, but one as the ocean.'"  There is no doubt that this was then the prevailing sentiment of the people of the Territory.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In order to provide for the immediate wants of their respective districts, the citizens of Sonoma and Sacramento had elected, early in the year 1849, District Legislative Assemblies.  The district of San Francisco, in consequence of difficulties between their Alcalde and two Town Councils claiming jurisdiction, resorted to the same method, and elected a Legislative Assembly.  These acts on the part of the people of the respective districts brought about various collisions between the people and the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm: government of which Gen. Riley, who arrived on the 13th of April, 1849, was now the head.  It is not necessary for us to enter into details of these matters, further than to say that a very excited and bitter feeling of hostility to this <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm: government was quite universal, and that this feeling was strengthened by the failure of Congress to pass a bill establishing a Territorial government in California, and the passage of a law for the collection of revenue.  The intelligence of this failure to act in the one case, and action in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>498</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XVIII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:other, on the part of Congress, reached San Francisco on the 28th May, 1849, by the U.S. propeller Edith, which vessel had been despatched to Mazatlan by order of Gen. Smith, on the preceding 10th of April.  No sooner was this intelligence disseminated throughout the country, than it became evident to all men that the political complexion which a great question had assumed in the Atlantic States had prevented Congress from establishing a Territorial government, or even authorizing the people of California to form a State government; and there grew up at once a unanimous desire in the hearts of the citizens of the Territory, to adopt the only feasible scheme which promised them a government--that of a State organization.  This sentiment daily gained ground until the beginning of June, 1849, when the Legislative Assembly of the District of San Francisco published an address to the people of California, asserting that they "believed it to be their duty to earnestly recommend to their fellow citizens the propriety of electing at least twelve delegates from each district to attend a general convention to be held at the Puebla de San Jose on the third Monday in August next, for the purpose of organizing a government for the whole Territory of California;" such " <HI REND="italics">conditional</HI>
196.sgm: or <HI REND="italics">temporary</HI>
196.sgm: State government to be put into operation at the earliest practicable moment" after "its ratification by the people," and "to become a <HI REND="italics">permanent</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Simultaneous with this action on the part of the Legislative Assembly of the district of San Francisco, though without any knowledge thereof, Gov. Riley issued at Monterey, (130 miles distant,) on the 3d day of June, 1849, a proclamation recommending the election of delegates to a convention for forming a State Constitution, said body to convene at Monterey on the 1st day of September following.  He also evinced a disposition, which had not been manifested before, to put in immediate, complete, and fair operation, the whole machinery of the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm: government, of which he claimed to be the head; he assured the people of his patriotic desire to accomplish his duty and their welfare by recommending them to elect all such officers as the existing laws authorized, whether it were provided that such officers should be elected by the people or appointed by the executive; and he convinced them of his good faith by at once coming forward and appropriating the "civil fund of California," which had been collected upon the imports of the country without law or authority, to the payment of the current expenses of the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm:<P>But the opposition of the people to the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm: government had sprung from patriotic motives and from experimental conviction that it was insufficient for the exigencies of the country.  This opposition was confined in its public manifestations entirely to the American born population.  The Californians proper, as a whole, had never participated in any of the popular exhibitions of discontent; and the emigration that was now daily arriving in large numbers did not, of necessity, enter into the spirit of the grievances which were complained of by the older residents, nor espouse either side of a quarrel of which they could not distinctly comprehend the nature.  All men, though, ardently desired a settled, Constitutional form of government; and it became the duty of the patriotic to yield their prejudices and abstract opinions, and to unite in one common effort to promote the public good.  Congress had abandoned the Territory to its own resources--had oppressed it by the passage of an unjust law--a large portion of its population were in determined and open hostility to the <HI REND="italics">de faato</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On the 7th of June, 1849, the citizens of San Jose, in a public meeting, concurred in the recommendations of Gen. Riley; and on the 11th of the same month the citizens of Monterey agreed thereto in a similar manner.  On the 12th day of that month the largest mass meeting of the citizens of San Francisco ever held convened in Portsmouth square in that city.  That meeting was addressed by Hon. T. Butler King, Wm. M. Gwin, Edward Gilbert, and other gentlemen; but such was the excited state of feeling in that district that the meeting, by a direct vote, refused to concur in the recommendation of Gen. Riley's proclamation.  A corresponding Committee was, however, appointed, which, on the 18th of June, in an address to the public, used the following language, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"The Committee, not recognizing the least power, as matter of <HI REND="italics">right</HI>
196.sgm: in Brev. Brig. Gen. Riley to ` <HI REND="italics">appoint</HI>
196.sgm:<P>This is believed to have been the general sentiment.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>499</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XIX</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>In all the other districts of the Territory, public meetings of concurrence in Gen. Riley's proclamation were subsequently held.  The election followed on the 1st of August, and the convention assembled at Monterey on the 1st of September, 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The undersigned have not presumed to weary your patience by laying before you in full the proceedings and action of the public bodies to which they have made allusion; nor have they thought it necessary to enter into a detail of minor particulars of difference and disagreement between the people and the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Such, in the opinion of the undersigned, is a brief and impartial history of the causes which have resulted in the formation of the present State government of California, and the presentation of her request for admission into the American Union.  And the undersigned firmly and religiously believe that a perusal of the foregoing pages must lead irresistibly to the following conclusions, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>1.  That a Territorial government, under the revisory power of Congress, would, so far from promoting the interests of California, so circumscribe its energies, prevent the develpment of its capacities, and impede its general advancement, as to be a source of discontent, difficulty, and ultimate ruin, either to the government or governed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  That the wonderful increase of the country in population, in wealth, and consequently in commercial, social, and political importance, renders imperatively necessary the adoption of such a system of measures as can only be enacted by a State Legislature and enforced by a State government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3.  That the neglect and oppression of the United States Congress, forced California to form a State government, if she desired to avoid civil strife and anarchy.</P>
196.sgm:<P>And, 4.  That the people of that country did not adopt such form of government in obedience to dictation from the executive here, through Gen. Riley there; but on the contrary, actually took the initiative in the movement, and only concurred in the suggestions of the <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Much misapprehension appears to have obtained in the Atlantic States relative to the question of slavery in California.  The undersigned have no hesitation in saying that the provision in the Constitution excluding that institution, meets with the almost unanimous approval of that people.  This unanimity is believed to result not so much from the prejudices against the system, which are quite general in the northern portion of the United States, as from a universal conviction that in no portion of California is the climate and soil of a character adapted to slave labor.  Since the discovery of the mines, the feeling in opposition to the introduction of slavery is believed to have become, if possible, more unanimous than heretofore.  The relation of master and slave has never existed in the country, and is there generally believed to be prohibited by Mexican law, consequently the original California population is utterly opposed to it.  Slavery is a question little discussed in California, so settled appears the public mind relative thereto.  Public meetings have scarcely ever considered it.  The opinion put forward, that the decision of this question has been forestalled, has no foundation in truth.  And no more conclusive proof of this can be found than the simple facts, that fifteen of the forty-eight members composing the convention which <HI REND="italics">unanimously</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Objections have been urged against the boundaries of California, as fixed by her Constitution.  The convention which settled upon the proposed boundary, was engaged during three days in debate upon that subject.  There were two parties, or rather two propositions: 1.  To take in the whole of California as it existed when a department of Mexico; but with a proviso that Congress and the State Legislature might limit the bounds of the State to the summit of the Sierra Nevada, and leaving it to Congress to establish Territorial governments over such portions of the country as it might see fit.  2.  To divide the whole Territory on the 116th degree of west longitude, from the southern boundary of Oregon to the northern boundary of Mexico, that portion of said Territory lying west of the one hundred and sixteenth degree of West longitude, and between that line and the Pacific Ocean, to constitute the State of California.  The opinion of the convention was so nearly divided between these two propositions, that both were supported by a majority at different times during the informal stages; and on the final passage the present boundary was adopted as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>500</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XX</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The qualifications prescribed for voters by Gen. Riley's proclamation were carried out at the election of delegates to the convention.  These qualifications were generally approved, and believed to be correct.  By that proclamation, after requiring the voter to be twenty-one years of age and an actual resident of the district where he offered his vote, three classes of voters were declared eligible, viz: 1.  American citizens; 2.  Mexicans who had elected under the treaty to become American citizens; and 3.  Mexican citizens who had been forced to leave their country in consequence of giving aid and succor to the American arms during the recent war.  These requirements were faith-fully complied with, beyond all doubt.  Such would seem to be the undeniable fact, as no complaint was ever made of illegal voting.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Under the provision relative to the right of suffrage in the Constitution of California, white male American citizens twenty-one years of age, and white male citizens of Mexico of the same age, who had elected to become citizens of the United States under the treaty of peace, were permitted to vote, in the districts of their residence, upon the ratification of the Constitution, and for the various officers to be elected under it.  No other persons were allowed to vote--no other persons did vote.  The allegation, therefore, that foreigners, aliens, and adventurers adopted the Constitution, of California is not warranted by facts.  That Constitution was ratified by over 12,000 votes <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>501</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXI</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The undersigned believe that they would fail to fulfil their duty if they did not, in connection with this subject, express the regret which they so strongly feel at the unjust attacks which have thus been made upon their constituents.  They regard such assaults as not only ungenerous toward the citizens of California, but as direct offences against the nobility and sacredness of the American character itself.  They look upon such insinuations as hurtful and injurious to the last degree, to a population than which none nobler and truer ever existed.  You will search history in vain for an example of order under excitement like that which California has presented for the last two years.  And it is the proud boast of every American, that to the republican education which that people has received, is due the extraordinary state of things which has heretofore rendered life and property secure where there was no law but the law of force.  Yet this people, whose conduct has excited the admiration of every portion of the civilized world where their course is understood, are disparaged by a portion of their American brothers!</P>
196.sgm:<P>The result of the labors of the Convention was submitted to the People of California for their consideration on the 13th day of October, 1849, on which day the Convention adjourned <HI REND="italics">sine die</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The anticipations which had caused the election to be held at an early day, proved not to be unfounded.  The winter rains commenced several days before the 13th of November, and on that day one of the worst storms ever experienced raged throughout the whole country.  The consequence was, not withstanding the personal exertions of the friends of the different candidates for popular favor, that only about fifteen thousand votes were polled.  Of these 12,061 were for the Constitution, 811 were against it, and from 1,200 to 1,500 were blanks, in consequence of the failure of the printer to place the words "For the Constitution" at the head of the ballots.  It is believed that there never was an election attended with less excitement.  The sentiment in favor of the Constitution was nearly unanimous, and was entirely the result of the unbiassed and deliberate opinions <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>502</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>The Legislature elected in November, assembled at San Jose, the Capitol of the State, on the 15th December last.  The Governor elected by the People, PETER H. BURNETT, Esq. was inaugurated according to the requirements of the Constitution; and on the 20th of the same month, Gen Riley, by proclamation, delivered the Civil Government into the hands of the duly-elected agents of the newly-organized State.  That State Government, complete in all its elemental parts, is now exercising the powers and performing the duties prescribed by the Constitution of the State of California.  The legislation that is likely to ensue will be of such a character as is demanded by the public interests, but always in conformity to the Constitution of the United States and the laws of Congress.  The intelligence and patriotism of those composing the State Government, are a warranty that no conflict of authority or interests is likely to occur, either from ignorance or design, between the Government of the United States and the Government of the State of California; and while it cannot be denied that the position of affairs is anomalous, it is not doubted that the legitimate channels of the two powers are so widely different that, running in a parallel direction, they never can come into collision.  Such is believed to be the settled opinion of the People of California and of their Legislative and Executive authorities.</P>
196.sgm:<P>It was not from any desire to establish a State Government in opposition to or regardless of the wishes and rights of the people of the United States, that the people of California purued this course.  No improper motives, no ambitious impulses, no executive influence prompted their action.  They believed that their brethren on the Atlantic appreciated their sufferings, admitted their patriotism, and would hail their action with joy.  They thought that the Congress of the United States would instantly open its doors to their delegated representatives, and that the State would be immediately and gladly admitted.  To this impression the tone of the public press, the dispatches of executive officers, and the speeches of distinguished statesmen in Congress had contrubuted in a very great degree; and as nothing of a contrary character had ever reached the Pacific shores, it is not surprising that the sentiment became a general one.  The daily arriving emigration added their corroborative evidence to the already general belief, and it finally came to be credited that the great public of the Atlantic States were as ardently and unanimously in favor of the admission of California as were her own citizens.  They did not anticpate delay, and consequently could not perceive or guard against a contingency arising from such a state of things  They believed their action to be eminently right and necessary, and sanctioned by the approving voice of the American people.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The population of California on the first day of January, 1850, is supposed to have been about 107,000 souls.  There are no means of ascertaining with certainty the number and character of the large immigration which has poured into the country since the discovery of the gold mines, but the undersigned, having taken much pains to arrive at correct conclusion on this subject, submit the following estimates:</P>
196.sgm:<P>The population of California, exclusively of Indians and Africans, is supposed to have been, on the first day of January, 1849, as follows, viz:<LB>Californians<HSEP>13,000<LB>Americans<HSEP>8,000<LB>Foreigners<HSEP>5,000<LB>Total<HSEP>26,000<LB><HSEP>From that time down to the 11th day of April, 1849, the arrivals by sea at the different ports is believed to have exceeded 6,000, and the arrivals by land from Sonora, Mexico, is estimated at 2,000.  One-haif of this increase, it is presumed, were Americans.<LB><HSEP>The following statistical table, compiled from the records of the Harbor-Master's Office at San Francisco, presents a more reliable and satisfactory account of the immigration which arrived there by sea from the 12th of April to the 31st of December, 1849, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Months.<HSEP>Americans.<HSEP>Foreigners.<HSEP>Males.<HSEP>Females.<HSEP>Totals.<LB>April, May, June<HSEP>3,944<HSEP>1,942<HSEP>5,677<HSEP>209<HSEP>5,886<LB>July<HSEP>3,000<HSEP>614<HSEP>3,565<HSEP>49<HSEP>3,614<LB>August<HSEP>3,384<HSEP>509<HSEP>3,806<HSEP>87<HSEP>3,893<LB>September<HSEP>4,271<HSEP>1,531<HSEP>5,680<HSEP>122<HSEP>5,802<LB>October<HSEP>2,655<HSEP>1,414<HSEP>3,950<HSEP>119<HSEP>4,069<LB>November<HSEP>1,746<HSEP>490<HSEP>2,155<HSEP>81<HSEP>2,236<LB>December<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">3,069</HI>
196.sgm:<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">500</HI>
196.sgm:<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">3,436</HI>
196.sgm:<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">133</HI>
196.sgm:<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">3,569</HI>
196.sgm:<LB>Totals<HSEP>22,069<HSEP>7,000<HSEP>28,269<HSEP>800<HSEP>29,069</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>503</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXIII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>In addition to the immigration thus arriving by sea at the port of San Francisco, it is believed that not less than 1,000 persons landed at other ports in California, during the same time.  By the way of Santa Fe and the Gila the immigration was estimated at 8,000.  From Mexico by land, from 6,000 to 8,000 were supposed to have arrived, of which only about 2,000 were believed to have remained in the country.  Adding to these amounts the 3,000 sailors who have deserted from ships arriving in the country, and computing the great overland immigration (which was variously estimated from 30,000 to 40,000,) at 25,000, the following totals result, viz:</P>
196.sgm:<P>Jan. 1, 1849.<HSEP>Jan. 1, 1850.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Americans<HSEP>8,000<HSEP>76,069<LB>Californians<HSEP>13,000<HSEP>13,000</P>
196.sgm:<P>Foreigners<HSEP><HI REND="underscore">5,000</HI>
196.sgm:<HSEP><HI REND="UNDERSCORE">18,000</HI>
196.sgm:<LB>Totals<HSEP>26,000<HSEP>107,069</P>
196.sgm:<P>The foregoing figures and estimates though known not to be strictly accurate, are thought to be a near approximation to the actual numbers of the inhabitants.  The round numbers are presumed, in every case, to be below the mark.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The undersigned do not deem it their duty or province to urge upon your honorable bodies the many cogent reasons which in their opinion might be justly presented in favor of the admission of California as a State.  Nor do they feel assured that it would be proper for them to lay before you any impressions which they may have of the history of the admission of new States, or the prescriptions, regulations, or laws of Congress relative thereto.  Neither would they wish to overstep the bounds of true propriety by indelicately requesting a speedy decision of this question.  Yet they cannot refrain from saying that great interests--inserests of the highest importance to the Rupublic and to California--are suffering incalculably for want of action on the part of Congress.  They will not attempt to particularize them, confident that the intelligent statesmen who compose your honorable bodies will at once understand to what they allude, and properly appreciate the suggestion.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The people of California are neither rebels, usurpers, nor anarchists.  They have not sought to sow the seeds of revolution, that they might reap in the harvest of discord.  They believe that the principles that guided them are true--they know that the motives which actuated them are pure and just--and they had hoped that their action would be acceptable to every portion of their common country.  They did not expect that their admission as a Stte would be made the test question upon which would hang the preservation of the American Union, nor did they desire such a result; but urged by the imperative and extraordinary necessities of their country, they united in such action as they believed would secure them a government under and in conformity to the Constitution of their country.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In thus presenting the certified copies of their State Constitution and their credentials, and asking the admission of the State, and that they may be permitted to take their seats in your respective bedies, the undersigned feel that they would neglect an important duty if they failed to assure you of the anxious desire for the perpetuity of this Union which animates all classes of their constituents.  Born and reared under its protecting influences, as most of them were, their patriotism is as broad as the Republic--it extends from the Atlantic to the Pacific--it is as deep as the current of their mighty rivers--as pure as the never-melting snows which crown their mountains, and as indestructible as the virgin gold extracted from their soil.  Coming as they nearly all do from the different States composing the Union, deeply impressed, as most of them have been by passing through for eign lands, with the immeasurable superiority of American institutions and American character, it would be strange, indeed, if they did not turn with reverence and affection toward their country, its institutions, and its people.  Possessed, too, in a remarkable degree, of intelligence, enterprise, and ability, rich in high moral qualities, industrious, energetic and honest, firm in their devotion to order and justice, they compose a community which has no superiors in the elements which constitute a citizen's glory, and a nation's greatness.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This people request admisssion into the American Union as a State.  They understand and estimate the advantages which will accrue to them from such a connection, while they trust they do not too highly compute those which will be conferred upon their brethren.  They do not present themselves as suppliants, nor do they bear themselves with arrogance or presumption.  They come as free Americans citizens--citizens by treaty, by adoption, and by birth--and ask that they may be permitted to reap the common benefits, share the common ills, and promote the common welfare, as one of the United States of America!</P>
196.sgm:<P>WILLIAM M. GWIN,</P>
196.sgm:<P>JOHN C. FREMONT,</P>
196.sgm:<P>GEORGE W. WRIGHT,</P>
196.sgm:<P>EDWARD GILBERT.</P>
196.sgm:<P>WASHINGTON, D.C. March 12, 1850.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>504</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>DIGEST OF LAWS.</HEAD>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Translation and Digest of such portions of the Mexican Lawsof March</HI>
196.sgm: 20 <HI REND="italics">th and May</HI>
196.sgm: 3 <HI REND="italics">d</HI>
196.sgm:, 1837, <HI REND="italics">as aresupposed to be still inforce and adapted to the present condition of California; withan Introduction and Notes, by</HI>
196.sgm: J. HALLECK, <HI REND="italics">Attorney atLaw, and</HI>
196.sgm: W. E .P. HARTNELL, <HI REND="italics">Government Translator</HI>
196.sgm:<P>EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
196.sgm:<P>MONTEREY, <HI REND="italics">July</HI>
196.sgm:<P>The following pages have been examined in manuscript and compared with the orignal text, and are believed to be essentially correct.  As it is thought that their publication at this time will be useful and advantageous, three hundred copies are ordered for distribution among the officers of the existing Government, to be paid for out of the "Civil Fund."</P>
196.sgm:<P>[SIGNED.]<HSEP>B. RILEY,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">B'vt. Brig. Gen'l U.S. Army</HI>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">and Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTION.</HEAD>
196.sgm:<P>In 1828 the Supreme Court of the United States, in a case concerning the then Territory of Florida, made the following decision:</P>
196.sgm:<P>"The usage of the world is, if a nation be not entirely subdued, to consider the holding of conquered territory as a mere military occupation until its fate be determined at the treaty of peace.  If it be ceded by the treaty, the acquisition is confirmed, and the ceded territory becomes a part of the nation to which it is annexed, either on the terms stipulated in the treaty of cession, or on such as its new master shall impose.  On such transfer of territory it has never been held that the relations of the inhabitants with each other undergo any change.  Their relations with the former sovereign are dissolved, and new relations are created between them and the Government which has acquired their territory.  The mere act which transfers their country, transfers the allegiance of those who remain in it; and the law which may be denominated political, is necessarily changed, although that which regulates the intercourse and general conduct of individuals <HI REND="italics">remains in force</HI>
196.sgm:<P>"The treaty (by which Florida was ceded) is the law of the land, and admits the inhabitants of Florida to the enjoyment of the privileges, rights, and immunitc of the citizens of the United States.  It is unnecessary to inquire whether this is not their condition, independent of stipulation.  They do not, however, participate in political power; they do not share in the government till Florida become a State.  In the mean time, Florida continues to be a territory of the United States, governed by virtue of that clause of the Constitution which empowers Congress to make all needful rules and regulations respecting the territory or other property belonging to the United States.</P>
196.sgm:<P>"Perhaps the power of governing a territory belonging to the United States, which has not by becoming a State, acquired the means of self-government, may result necessarily from the fact, that it is not within the jurisdiction of any particular State, and is within the power and jurisdiction of the United States.  The right to govern may be the inevitable consequence of the right to acquire territory.  Whichever may be the source whence the power is derived, the possession of it is unquestioned."</P>
196.sgm:<P>This decision shows plainly and conclusively what is the present legal condition of things in California.  The laws which were in force in this country previous to its conquest, and which do not conflict with the Constitution, Treaties and Laws of the United States, constitute the existing laws of California, and the government recognised in those laws is the only one which can be recognised in any legal court, and these laws and this government must continue until changed by or with the consent of Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>During the military occupation of California, the commanding officer here, under the general authority conferred on him by the laws of war, could suspend or change any of the laws of Mexico affecting the people of this Territory; but all such suspensions and changes were only of a temporary character, and ceased with the war.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The relations which formerly existed between this government and Mexico were dissolved by the transfer of the territory, and it may be a question how far these relations have been transferred <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>505</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXV</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>As some months will necessarily elapse before the existing government and laws of California can be changed, it is important to know the powers and responsibilities of the several political and judicial officers of the present Government.  The following pages have been prepared to assist in furnishing this information.  The laws of March 20th and May 23d, 1837, are regarded as the laws in force in California up to the time of the conquest.  The Mexican Constitution of 1844, partially adopted in Mexico, was never regarded as in force in California, nor was it known here that these laws were materially modified by any decrees or orders of the Mexican Congress.  It will be a question hereafter for the decision of courts, what modifications were legally made by Mexico, and how far they are actually in force under the existing circumstances of the country.  It is not pretended that all the provisions of the laws of 1837, actually in force in California, are embodied in the following pages, nor that all the articles which have been selected are applicable in their full extent to the existing state of the country.  This little work is merely intended as a temporary guide and assistance to the inferior officers of Government, till more complete treaties can be prepared by competent persons.  Most of the articles in the following pages are nearly literal translations of the Spanish text, consequently new words and awkward expressions are frequently introduced.  This was deemed preferable to attempting a more liberal rendering.  The translator will not vouch for the perfect correctness of his translation in every instance, for he does not himself understand the exact meaning of some of the terms and phrases used in the Spanish laws.  Where doubts arise respecting the meaning of these phrases, it will be necessary for the court to critically examine the words of the original text.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In putting in practice the existing laws of California important assistance will be derived by consulting the "Febrero Mejicano," "Alvarez' <HI REND="italics">Instituciones de derecho real de Castilla y de Indias</HI>
196.sgm:," "Gutierres' <HI REND="italics">Practica Criminal</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Louisiana was ceded by France to Spain in 1762, and was taken possession of by this latter power in 1769, when the Spanish law was introduced.  The great body of this law, called the <HI REND="italics">Siete Partidas</HI>
196.sgm:, was compiled as early as 1263.  The <HI REND="italics">Recopilacion de Castilla</HI>
196.sgm:, published in 1567, was intended to clear up the confusion of the previous codes, but it leaves the authority of the <HI REND="italics">partidas</HI>
196.sgm: generally unimpaired.  The cession of Louisiana to the United States necessarily introduced the trial by jury in a modified form, and the writ of <HI REND="italics">habeas corpus</HI>
196.sgm:, which were unknown to the pre-existing laws.  The legislative council of the territory of Orleans borrowed largely from the common law, but principally those forms of proceedings necessary to confer efficient powers on the courts organized under the authority of the union.  But, in the adjudication of suits between individuals, the Spanish jurisprudence was the sole guide, except in commercial questions.  In 1806 the legislative council ordered two able jurists to prepare a civil code for the use of the territory on the groundwork of the civil laws which governed the territory.  It was reported in 1808 and adopted, but was not allowed to supersede the previous laws, except as far as those laws were inconsistent with its provisions.  The "Digest of the Civil Code now in force in the territory of Orleans," as it was called, though termed a code, is, in fact, little more than a synopsis of the jurisprudence of Spain.  It continued in operation for fourteen years without any material innovation.  In 1822 Messrs. Derbigny, Livingston, and Moreau Lislet were selected by the legislature to revise and amend the civil code, and to add to it such of the laws stillin force as were not included therein.  They were authorized to add a system of commercial laws and a code of practice.  The code which they prepared, having been adopted, was promulgated in 1824, under the title of the "Civil Code of the State Louisiana;" and the legislature resolved, that "from and after the promulgation of this code, the Spanish, Roman, and French laws, which were in force when Louisiana was ceded to the United States, and the acts of the legislative council of the legislature of the territory of Orleans, and of the legislature of the state of Louisiana, be, and hereby are, repealed in every case <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>506</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXVI</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:for which it has been specially provided in this code."  It would seem that where the code is silent on any subject, any pre existing laws on that subject, whether of French or Spanish origin, or of native growth, would be considered as still in force.  The new code, independently of the great changes which it has introduced, is much more full and explicit in the doctrinal parts than the former digest.  The theory of obligations particularly deserves to be mentioned, as comprising, in a condensed and even elegant form, the most satisfactory enunciation of general principles.  The jurisconsults appear to have profited much by the great work of Toublier, entitled <HI REND="italics">Le Droit civil Francais</HI>
196.sgm:<P>A plan of a penal code was accordingly drawn up by him, and presented to the legislature in 1822.  This code has since been published, and is regarded as one of the most elegant and learned legal works extant.</P>
196.sgm:<P>PART FIRST.</P>
196.sgm:<P>POLITICAL.</P>
196.sgm:<P>LAW OF MARCH 20TH, 1837.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The interior Government of the Department shall be under the charge of the Governor, Departmental Legislature (Juncta,) Prefects and Sub-Prefects, Ayuntamientos, Alcaldes, and Justices of the Peace.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION I.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of the Governor</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  His term of service and the necessary qualifications for election are specified in the sixth constitutional law.<ANCHOR ID="a-11">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-11">These qualifications are no longer necessary, nor even admissible, for by the transfer of this Territory to the United States our relations with Mexico were dissolved.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">It shall be his duty</HI>
196.sgm:<P>1st.  To take care of the preservation of public order in the interior of the department;</P>
196.sgm:<P>2nd.  To dispose of the armed force which the laws assign to him for this purpose, and in default thereof, or where it may not be sufficient, to ask the necessary force from the military commandant, who cannot refuse it;</P>
196.sgm:<P>3d.  To publish without delay, execute and cause to be executed, the laws and decrees of Congress, and circulate them through the Department;</P>
196.sgm:<P>4th.  To execute also, and cause to be executed, the decrees and orders of the General Government and the resolutions of the departmental legislature, previously approved, when necessary, by Congress;</P>
196.sgm:<P>5th.  To remit to the General Government, with his report, all the resolutions of the departmental legislature;</P>
196.sgm:<P>6th.  To appoint the Prefects, approve the appointment of Sub Prefects of the department, confirm that of the Justices of Peace, and to remove any of these functionaries, having first the opinion of the departmental legislature respecting such removal;</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>507</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXVII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>7th.  To appoint likewise the other officers of the Department, whose appointment is not reserved to some other authority;</P>
196.sgm:<P>8th.  To suspend the officers of the Department for a term not exceeding three months, and even deprive them of half of their salary for the same period;</P>
196.sgm:<P>9th.  To suspend the Ayuntamientos of the Department with the consent of the departmental legislature;<ANCHOR ID="a-21">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-21">Where there is no departmental legislature organized it has always been held that the power of removal and suspension rests with the Governor, who is responsible for his acts to the general government.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<P>10th.  In case of exercising either of the two foregoing attributes, he shall immediately report to the general government;</P>
196.sgm:<P>11th.  To grant permission with a just motive, for a period not exceeding two months in each year, to government officers to be absent from their stations;</P>
196.sgm:<P>12th.  To decide executively and without appeal the doubts which may arise respecting the elections of Ayuntamientos, and admitor not the renunciations of the members elected;</P>
196.sgm:<P>13th.  To exercise, in union with the departmental legislature, with a casting vote in case of a tie, the rejecting power (esclusiva) referred to in Article 22nd, Attributes 8th of the fifth constitutional law;<ANCHOR ID="a-12">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-12">This has reference to the appointments of certain subaltern officers.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<P>14th.  To incite the tribunals and magistrates to the prompt and correct administration of justice, and report to the respective superior authorities the faults of the inferior ones;</P>
196.sgm:<P>15th.  To watch over the revenue officers of the Department in the manner which shall be prescribed by law;</P>
196.sgm:<P>16th.  To watch over the public health of the Department, taking, in concert with the legislature, the necessary measures for its preservation;</P>
196.sgm:<P>17th.  To take particular care that there be no want of elementary schools in any of the towns of the Department, and that the masters and mistresses, as far as the circumstances of the place will admit, possess good moral character and the necessary qualifications.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  He may in his executive capacity, and without appeal, impose fines not exceeding two hundred dollars, which shall be paid into the municipal funds (propios y arbitrios) of the place to which the person fined belongs; or he may sentence the inhabitants of the Department who shall disobey him or be wanting in respect, or who in any other manner disturb the public tranquillity, to one month at public works, or double the time of arrest, conforming himself to the circumstances of the individuals, and allowing them a summary and verbal hearing, in case they should request it.  But with respect to faults for which the law has provided a penalty, the existing regulations must be observed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  He shall hear complaints against the functionaries of the departmental government, and for faults cognizable by government he may impose executively and without appeal a fine not exceeding fifty dollars, to be likewise paid over to the municipal funds; but said functionaries shall also be heard in a summary and verbal manner in case they desire it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  He may send vagabonds idle persons, and such as have no known occupation, to the establishment dedicated to this object, or to such workshops or agricultural establishments as may choose voluntarily to admit them; but the persons so to be disposed of shall have the choice of the two latter destinations.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  When the public tranquility shall require it, he may give a written order to search houses and to arrest persons; and even without this requisite he may command the arrest of any delinquent caught in the act: but in either case the persons arrested must within three days be put at the disposal of the competent magistrate, to whom he will make a written report of the motives of the arrest.<ANCHOR ID="a-13">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-13">It may he a question whether this clause is not slightly modified by Art. IV. amendments to the Constitution of the United States.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<P>ART.  6.  On the report of the Prefect (the opinion of the departmental legislature being obtained) he may grant permission to the Ayuntamiento or authorities in charge of the administration and expenditure of municipal funds, to defray such extraordinary expenses as may be required for objects of necessity or common utility.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  In cases of necessity or for motives of public utility, he may, in concert with the departmental legislature, grant permission to said authorities to alienate certain property belonging to the municipal funds (proprios y arbitrios;) and any cession, donation, or contract made without this requisite, will be null and void.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  He will issue the respective commissions to the officers whom by law he is entitled to appoint.<ANCHOR ID="a-14">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-14">The original text also states how he shall sign his name to different documents, when his family name, and when his mere flourish is sufficient.  With us one and the same signature is always used.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>508</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXVIII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  At public meetings he will take precedence of all the authorities of the department.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 10.  He will also preside at the departmental legislature when he shall attend the sessions; but he shall only be entitled to vote in case of a tie, or in such cases as are or may be provided for by the Constitution and the laws.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 11.  Should he be in any town of the department, he may preside without vote at the sessions of the ayuntamiento thereof.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 12.  He shall nominate and remove at pleasure the Secretary of the Departmental government, but he cannot appoint to this office, or to that of prefect, any public officer, without the consent of the authority who named him.</P>
196.sgm:<P>13.  His ordinary residence shall be in the capital of the department, and in order to remove therefrom, he will require the permission of the President.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 14.  He shall be the ordinary channel of communication between the supreme powers of the nation and the departmental legislature, and between the latter and the authorities of the department.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 15.  In all official matters, the Governor, whether regularly appointed, or acting as such <HI REND="italics">ad interim</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 16.  The salary of the Governor is regulated by the General Government, but can never exceed five thousand dollars per annum.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 17.  In temporary default of the Governor, another shall be named <HI REND="italics">ad interim</HI>
196.sgm:, in the same manner as the proper one.  If the default should be of short duration, the senior (mas antiguo) lay member of the departmental legislature shall take charge of the government, as he shall in like manner do, during the interval which may take place between the default of the Governor proper and the appointment of his successor <HI REND="italics">ad interim</HI>
196.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="a-31">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-31">In the older Departments of Mexico the Legislature nominated several persons from which the President selected the Governor, but in California and the other frontier Departments, no such right was vested in the Legislature, the President having power to select any person for Governor without a previous nomination.  In the present instance, the commanding officer of this military department is designated by the President of the United States, as Governor of California, which power is exercised in accordance with the former laws of the country; it is therefore unnecessary to examine whether this power could not have been exercised (any laws of this country to the contrary notwithstanding) under the new relations, created by the transfer of the territory, between its inhabitants and the General Government of the United States.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION II.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of the Secretary</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  There shall be a Secretary's Office in the Department for the transaction of the affairs of its interior government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  The Secretary shall be the immediate head of the office and shall form regulations for the interior government of the same, which must be submitted to the Governor for him to approve or reform as he may see fit.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  The Secretary shall authorize under his signature the publication and circulation of the laws, decrees and orders of the Supreme powers, the determinations of the departmental legislature, the municipal ordinances of the Ayuntamientos, the interior police regulations of the Department and the titles or despatches issued by the Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  He shall carry on the Governor's correspondence with the inferior authorities under his signature, restricting himself to what is directed by the Governor, and he shall be answerable for any deviation therefrom.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  He shall likewise be answerable for the want of the <HI REND="italics">espedientes</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  Neither the Secretary or any of the Clerks of the office shall ask or accept any fees or emoluments for the despatch of any kind of business.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  He shall be officially entitled to the appellation of "Honorable" (Senoria.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  The salary of the Secretary is fixed by the Governor (with the approbation of the General Government,) but can never exceed two thousand five hundred dollars per annum.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION III.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of the Departmental Legislature</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  In this Department there shall be an assembly denominated the "Departmental Legislature," composed of seven individuals.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>509</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXIX</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  These persons shall be elected by the same electors who choose the deputies to Congress, and the election must take place precisely on the day following that of said deputies.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  Seven substitutes shall likewise be named in the same manner as the foregoing, who shall fill vacancies that may occur, according to the order of their nomination.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  The Departmental Legislature shall be entirely renovated every four years, and they will commence their functions on the first day of January following their election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  It belongs to the Departmental Legislature:--</P>
196.sgm:<P>1st.  To pass (iniciar) laws relative to taxes, public education, industry, trade and municipal administration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2d.  To establish common schools in all the towns of the Department, and assign to them competent donations, out of the municipal funds, where there are any, and when not, to impose moderate contributions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3d.  To order the establishment and repairs of the interior roads of the Department, establishing moderate tolls for the payment of the expenses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>4th.  To dictate all regulations proper for the preservation and improvement of the establishments of public instruction and benificence, and such as tend to the encouragement of agriculture, industry and commerce: but if such regulation should in any way be burdensome to the towns of the department they must not be put in execution until they be previously approved by Congress.</P>
196.sgm:<P>5th.  To promote by means of the Governor whatever may be conducive to the prosperity of of the Department in all its branches, and to the well being of its inhabitants.</P>
196.sgm:<P>6th.  To form, in union with the Governor, the Municipal Ordinances of the Ayuntamientos, and the regulations of the interior police of the Department.</P>
196.sgm:<P>7th.  To examine and approve the accounts which are to be rendered of the collection and expenditure of the municipal funds (propios y arbitrios.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>8th.  To advise with the Governor in all affairs in which he may require it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  The Legislature will form its own regulations for its interior government, and elect its own subordinate officers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  Four members present are necessary to form a quorum.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  The acts of the Legislature must be signed by the senior member present and by the Secretary.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  Each one of the members of the Legislature shall be responsible for the opinion said Legislature may give to the Governor against an express law, and particularly if it be constitutional, or for bribery or subornation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 10.  The Legislature shall be styled "Excellency;" their members "Honorable" (Senoria) in their official capacity; and they shall receive $1,500 per annum.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 11.  The Governor shall administer the oath of office to each member of the Legislature, in case that body be present it shall be administered in their presence, to keep and cause to be kept the constitutional laws, and faithfully to fulfil the obligations of their situations, being responsible for the infractions which they may commit or not impede.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 12.  The Legislature shall have a Secretary with a salary not to exceed $1200 per annum.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 13.  The Restrictions of the Governor and Departmental Legislature:--</P>
196.sgm:<P>1st.  They shall impose no illegal contributions, nor apply any contributions to other than those objects pointed out by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2d.  They shall not adopt any measures for raising armed forces except in such cases wherein they are expressly authorized by law, or when they may be ordered so to do by the General Government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3d.  They shall not make use of any other authority than that granted to them by law.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 14.  The members of the Departmental Legislature cannot renounce their situations without a legal motive, to be approved by the Legislature itself, and sanctioned by the Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION IV.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Prefects and Sub-Prefects</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  In each district there shall be a Prefect named by the Governor and confirmed by the General Government, who shall remain in office four years, and may be re-elected.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  It belongs to the Prefects:--</P>
196.sgm:<P>1st.  To take care of public order and tranquility in their district, with entire subjection to the Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2d.  To publish without delay, enforce and cause to be enforced, the laws and decrees of Congress which they may receive from the Governor, and circulate them in the towns of the district.</P>
196.sgm:<P>3d.  To observe, and cause to be observed, the decrees and orders of the General Government, the resolutions of the Departmental Legislature and of the Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  In order to carry out the foregoing powers and duties (atribuciodes,) they may in their district impose by their own authority, fines to the amount of one hundred dollars, to be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>510</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXX</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  They will hear complaints against the functionaries of the government of the district, and they may in their own authority impose upon them a fine of the amount of thirty dollars, to be applied to the municipal fund of the place to which the person fined belongs, for faults cognizable by government; but in case they should consider that said functionaries should be suspended, they will inform the Governor for him to determine what may be convenient.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  They will resolve on their own authority the doubts which may occur respecting the election of Ayuntamientos, and accept or not the resignations of the members thereof, and the Justices of the Peace; but the parties interested will nevertheless have the right to appeal directly to the Governor.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  Should any one consider himself wronged in any of the three foregoing cases, he may appeal to the Governor, who will definitively decide what he may consider just.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  When public tranquility or the investigation of some crime makes it necessary, they may give a written order to search certain houses, and to arrest any person; and without this requisite they will order the culprit <HI REND="italics">in fragante</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  With the consent of the Governor they may order idle vagabonds who have no known occupation, for the time necessary for their correction, to the establishments destined to that object, or to such manufactories or agricultural establishments as may choose to receive them voluntarily; the person sentenced being allowed to choose to which of the last two establishments he wishes to go.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  They will incite the tribunals to render prompt and upright justice, informing the Governor of the defects they may note in the magistrates; but without intermeddling in their functions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 10.  They will take particular care that common schools be not wanting in any of the towns of the Department.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 11.  They will scrupulously take care that the masters and mistresses not only possess the necessary instruction, but they also be of good moral character, the circumstances of the place being taken into consideration.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 12.  Should the want of funds prevent the establishment of schools, they will apply to the Governor that he may make it known to the Departmental Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 13.  They will propose to the Governor whatever measures they may judge proper for the encouragement of agriculture and all the branches of industry, instruction, and public beneficence, and for the execution of new works of public utility and for the repairs of the old ones.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 14.  They will by their own authority and agreeable to the laws, regulate the distribution of <HI REND="italics">common</HI>
196.sgm: lands in the towns of the district, provided there be no law suits pending in the tribunals respecting them; the parties interested having the right to appeal to the Governor, who in concert with the Departmental Legislature, will decide definitively what may be most convenient.<ANCHOR ID="a-41">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-41">This distribution has referenence only to temporary use and occupation.  <HI REND="italics">Common</HI>
196.sgm: lands cannot be sold without legislative authority, but <HI REND="italics">municipal</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 15.  They will cause the Sub Prefects, Ayuntamientos, and Justices of the Peace to comply faithfully with their respective obligations, and see that they do not exceed their authority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 16.  In the administration and expenditure of the funds of the towns, they will exercise the supervision which may be granted to them by the ordinances of the Ayuntamientos.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 17.  They will appoint the Sub-Prefects, sending the appointments to the Governor to obtain his approval.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 18.  Should not the Governor's answer arrive in time, owing to the loss of the mail or any other cause, the person appointed will take his situation on the 1st of January in which the periodical renovation takes place, without prejudicing what the Governor may resolve.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 19.  They will also name the Justices of the Peace of the District, to be proposed to them by the Sub-Prefects of the different towns, observing what is ordered in the two preceding articles.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 20.  The Prefects will communicate their appointments to the new Sub-Prefects in an official letter, of which they will also send a copy to the former ones, that they may likewise officially inform the authorities of the towns.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 21.  In the same manner they will communicate the appointments to the new Justices of the Peace and to those who have ceased, that these latter may inform all whom it may concern.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>511</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXXI</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 22.  They will require from the military commandant the necessary force for the preservation or re-establishment of public tranquility and for the security of the roads.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 23.  The Prefects on taking possession of their situations will receive by inventory all the documents, laws, decrees, orders and other papers belonging to the Prefect's office, and will in the same manner deliver to their successors, they being responsible for any loss of said documents.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 24.  They shall be the ordinary channel of communication between the Governor and the Subaltern authorities of the District; and whatever representations may be made by the latter to the former must be accompained with their remarks (information.)  Their ordinary place of residence shall be the chief town of the district, unless under particular circumstances, the Governor may determine otherwise with the consent of the Departmental Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 25.  Whenever they may think proper they will consult with some competent judge, (Juez de letras) who is bound to give his advice.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 26.  The Governor in concert with the Departmental Legislature, and bearing in mind the different circumstances of the districts, will propose to the President of the Republic the salary which each Prefect ought to enjoy, but this must not exceed $2500 per annum.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 27.  Each Prefect shall have a Secretary, which he may appoint and remove at pleasure, who shall have a salary of $700 per annum.  Neither the Prefects nor their Secretaries can ask or receive any emolument or fee for any kind of business connected with their offices.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 28.  The Prefects on entering on their duties will make oath in presence of the Ayuntamiento of the chief town of their district, or if there be no Ayuntamiento, then before a Justice of the Peace.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 29.  The Secretaries will take a similar oath before their respective Prefects.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 30.  The Sub Prefects have the same faculties and are subject to the same obligations of the Prefects in their respective localities, but in all their official duties they are subject to the direction of the Prefect of their District.  They can however of their own authority impose a fine of $50 or sentence to eight days labor on the public works in the same manner and under the same restrictions as the Prefects.  On entering upon the duties of their office they take a similar oath, and are allowed $365 per annum for stationery &amp;c., which is the only salary they receive; they however are not prohibited from receiving fees.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION V.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of the Ayuntamientos</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  The Capital of the Department, Ports with a population of 4000 inhabitants, Interior Towns of 8000 inhabitants, Towns which had Ayuntamientos previous to 1808, and those to whom this right is given by special law, shall be entitled to Ayunamientos or Town Councils.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  In order to form a quorum for the transaction of any business, more than one half of the members must be present.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  The number of Alcaldes, Regidores, and Sindicos will be fixed by the Departmental Legislature in concert with the Governor, but the first must not exceed six; the second, twelve; and the third, two.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  The Alcaldes are to be removed every year, half of the Regidores the same, and when there are two Sindicos one of them, the first appointed to be first removed; when there is only one Sindico he must be changed every year.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  The Alcaldes, Regidores, and Sindicos may be re-elected indefinitely, and no one can refuse to serve without a just cause, approved by the Governor or Prefect, or in case of re-election, when two years have not expired, or if within the same period they have acted in any other municipal situation, or as Sub Prefect, or Justice of the Peace.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  In case of the death or incapacity of any of the members of the Ayuntamiento, others may be elected to supply their places, unless the vacancy should occur within less than three months of the close of the year; in which case the periodical time must be waited for.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  If the newly elected should be an Alcalde, he will take the place that was vacant; if a Regidor or Sindico, he will occupy the lowest place, and the others will ascend according to the order of their appointment, until the vacancy be filled up.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  In case of the suspension of an entire Ayuntamiento, or part of one, the Ayuntamiento of the preceding year will take its place in the whole or in part as it may happen.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  The following persons cannot be members of Ayuntamiento: Officers appointed by Congress, by the General or Departmental Governments, the Magistrates of the Supreme tribunals, the legal judge of the lower court (de primera instancia;) Clergymen, Directors of Hospitals, or other chartible institutions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 10.  The Ayuntamientos, under subjection to the Sub-Prefects, and through them to the Prefects and Governor, will have charge of the police, health, comfort, ornament, order and security of their respective jurisdictions.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 11.  They will consequently take care of the cleanliness of the streets, market places and the public squares.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>512</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXXII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 12.  They will see that in each town there be one or more burying grounds conveniently located.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 13.  They will watch over the quality of all kinds of liquors and provisions, in order that nothing unsound or corrupted be sold.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 14.  They will take care that in the Apothecary shops, no rancid or adulterated drugs be sold, to which end they may appoint intelligent persons of the faculty to examine them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 15.  They will see that marshes be drained, and that stagnant and unhealthy waters be made to run off, and that everything which tends to injure the health of men or cattle be removed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 16.  They will likewise take care of prisons, hospitals, and establishments of public benificence which are not of private foundations.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 17.  The moment that any prevailing sickness makes its appearance in the district of the Municipality, the Ayuntamiento will inform the Sub-Prefect, or should there be no Sub-Prefect, the Prefect, in order that through his means, the necessary assistance may be administered, but this will not prevent the Ayuntamiento from taking in the mean time the necessary steps to cut off or restrain the evil in its commencement.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 18.  With this laudable object, they will name a committee of charity, composed of a Regidor or Alcalde, a Sindico, a Physician should there be one in the place, and two residents or more, should the Ayuntamiento think it necessary, according to the extent of the place and the duties to be performed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 19.  The Ayuntamiento will remit semi-annually, to the Sub-Prefect, or in default of him to the Prefect, that he may forward it to the Governor, an account of the births, marriages and deaths in each of these periods, which must embrace all its district, and mention the sex, age, diseases of which they may have died, keeping in its records a copy of this document.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 20.  In order to obtain these data, they may ask them of the parish curates, the Justices of the Peace, the municipality, or any other persons or corporation capable of furnishing them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 21.  In order to attend to the ornament and comfort of the towns, they will see that the market places, be well distributed, and that every obstacle, tending to hinder them from being sufficiently provided be removed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 22.  They will take care of the preservation of the public fountains, and see that there be abundance of water for men and cattle.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 23.  They will likewise endeavor as far as possible, to have the streets straight, paved and lighted, and that there be public walks and abundant plantations, for the beauty and health of the towns.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 24.  It belongs to them to procure the construction and repairing of bridges, causeways and roads, and to encourage agriculture, industry, trade and whatever they may consider useful to the inhabitants.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 25.  At the junction of different roads, they will place inscriptions pointing out the respective directions and distances to the nearest towns.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 26.  It belongs to the Ayuntamientos, to make contract for all kinds of diversions, licence having previously been obtained from the first local political authorty.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 27.  The products from these contracts must be paid into the municipal funds.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 28.  If the regulations of police and good government should not embrace all the measures which the Ayuntamientos may consider necessary for the preservation of order and the security of persons and property, they may propose to the Governor whatever others they may deem convenient, in order that those which may appear just may be adopted.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 29.  They will see that in every town there be a safe and commodious prison, that in said prisons different departments be found for persons arrested and for prisoners, and they will take care that the latter be usefully employed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 30.  They will pay careful attention to the establishment of Common Schools in every town, the masters and mistresses of which must be paid out of the municipal fund, and they will not only be careful to appoint proper persons, but to see that at all times they continue to be of good conduct and sound morals.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 31.  They will distribute with all possible impartiality, the municipal duties imposed upon the citizens, guiding themselves by the existing laws, or by such as may hereafter be made.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 32.  They will watch over the arrangement of the weights and measures, agreeable to the laws on the subject.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 33.  The Ayuntamientos, and every one of their members, whenever they may be called upon by the Prefect, Sub-Prefect, and Alcaldes, will render every assistance towards carrying into execution the laws, decrees and orders, and the preservation of public order.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 34.  They will have the administration and expenditure of the municipal funds to manage, being guided by the ordinances relating thereto, and having in view the expenses approved by the Government.  Within the first two months of the year, they will remit to the Sub-Prefect, or in default of him, to the Prefect, that he may send to the Governor, an account with vouchers, of the total amount of municipal funds, and of the direction given them during the preceeding year.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 35.  The municipal funds will be deposited with such person or persons as the Ayuntamiento may appoint, under its responsibility.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 36.  The mal administration of the funds and the expenditure thereof in expenses not designated by the ordinances of the Ayuntamientos, or which have not obtained the approbation <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>513</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXXIII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 37.  The Ayuntamientos may appoint at their pleasure a Secretary, and assign him with the approbation of the Governor, who will act in concert with the Departmental Legislature, the salary that may be considered just; but he cannot be removed from his situation without the same approbation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 38.  Should the municipal funds not be sufficient to pay the salary of a Secretary, the Regidores by monthly turns will perform his duties, and they will only be allowed stationery.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 39.  The members of the Ayuntamientos on taking office will take the same oath as other political authorities; the Alcalde, or the first one, should there be two or more, will take it at the hands of the Prefect or Sub-Prefect, or in defect of both, at the hands of the former Alcalde; and the other members of the corporation, as likewise the Justices of the Peace of the Municipality will also be sworn in by the Alcalde.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 40.  The Secretaries will take the same oath before their Ayuntamientos.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION VI.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of the Alcaldes</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  The Alcaldes in the places of their usual residence, will take care of good order and public tranquility.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  They will watch over the execution and fulfilment of the police regulations, laws, decrees, and orders which may be communicated to them by the Sub-Prefects, or in their defect, by the Prefects, and they will duly circulate them to the Justices of the Peace of the Municipality.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  For the fulfilment of the objects mentioned in the preceding articles they will ask for the necessary force from the Military Commandant.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  In defect of such force, or if it should not be sufficient, and any citizens should ask assistance in order to secure their persons or property when they are in danger, and in general for the security or apprehension of criminals within their jurisdiction, and for the preservation of public order, they will call upon the citizens, who are strictly obliged to obey them, the same as any other public authority.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  They will cause the culprit, <HI REND="italics">in fragante</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  They will see that the residents of the place live by  useful occupations, and they will reprimand the idle, vagabonds, persons of bad conduct, and those who have no known occupation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  Those who through drunkenness or any other motive, disturb the public tranquility, or who disobey them, or are wanting in respect to them, they may on their own authority fine to the amount of $25, to be applied to the municipal funds, or they may sentence to four days of public works, or double the time of arrest, taking into consideration the circumstances of the individuals, and giving them a trial in case they may require it; but with respect to crimes designated by law the existing regulations must be observed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  Should any one consider himself aggrieved in the case of the preceding article he may appeal to the immediate superior, who will definitely determine what he may esteem just.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  They will assist and have a vote at the session of the Ayuntamientos, and they will preside over them according to the order of their appointment when neither the Prefect nor Sub-Prefect assist, and when they do preside their vote shall be decisive.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 10.  The temporary absence of the Alcaldes will be supplied by the Regidores according to the order of their appointment.  The same will be practised in case of death, &amp;c., until the person be elected who is to succeed them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION VII.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of the Justices of the Peace</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  The Departmental Legislature and the Governor, having previously heard the opinion of the respective Prefects and Sub-Prefects, and bearing in mind the different circumstances of all the towns and villages of the Department, will determine the number of Justices of the Peace which there should be in each of them; but they must not neglect to establish them in every ward and populous rancheria distant from a town.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  The Justices of the Peace are to be named by the Prefect of the District on the recommendations of the respective Sub Prefects.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  In every place of one thousand inhabitants or more, the Justice of the Peace shall have, under subjection to the Sub Prefect, and through him to the superior authorities, the same faculties and obligations as the Ayuntamientos; but in the management or supervision of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>514</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXXIV</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  These Justices of the Peace, as well as those of places which do not contain one thousand inhabitants; those of the suburbs and rancherias at a distance from towns, and those of the quarters and wards of every populous town, shall have the faculties and obligations granted to and imposed on the Alcaldes in Section VI, Art. 1--6.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  In the suburbs and rancherias distant from towns, and in such towns where only a Justice of the Peace is established, a substitute shall also be named in the same manner as the real one, to take his place in case of temporary absence.  In other places where there are several Justices of the Peace, they shall during the present year 1837 mutually supply the places of each other.  In future this shall be done by the former Justices of the Peace, according to the order of their appointment, beginning with those of the last year.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  The Justices of the Peace of those places in which the Ayuntamientos are to cease, will receive, by means of correct inventory, all the documents, books of acts, and whatever may belong to those corporations, and they will remit a copy of it to the Governor that he may send it to the Departmental Legislature.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  The Governor, in concert with the Departmental Legislature, will dictate convenient regulations relative to securing the municipal funds until the ordinances fix the rules for their good management and expenditure.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  The situation of the Justices of the Peace is a Municipal office which cannot be refused except for a legal cause approved by the Governor or Prefect, after hearing the opinion of the authority that named or proposed him, or in the case of re-election, if two years have not transpired, or if an equal time has not passed since he served as Sub-Prefect.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  The Justices of the Peace on entering into office will make the same oath as the other authorities, at the hands of the Sub-Prefect, or in default of him, before the last Justice of the Peace or before the first one appointed, should there be several.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION VIII.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">General Observations</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  The channels of communication established by this law cannot be deviated from except in extraordinary circumstances, or in case of complaint against some functionary through whose hands the communications ought to be forwarded.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  The fines imposed by the functionaries mentioned in this law shall not be collected by themselves, but they shall order them to be delivered to the Treasurer or depository of the municipal funds, who will give the corresponding receipt, so that the person fined may satisfy the authority by which he was fined.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  If those elected for Governors, Members of the Departmental Legislature, Prefects, and persons employed in their Secretaries' offices, should receive a higher salary or pension from the public funds than the salary designated by this law, they shall continue to enjoy it, and to that end the excess shall be credited to them.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  The laws which organized the economic-political government of the Department are abolished.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>515</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXXV</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>PART SECOND.</P>
196.sgm:<P>JUDICIAL.</P>
196.sgm:<P>LAW OF MAY 23d, 1837.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION I.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of the Superior Court--(Tribunal</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  The Superior Tribunal of California shall consist of four Judges, (ministros,) and one Attorney General, (fiscal;) of which Judges the three senior ones shall compose the first bench, (sala,) and the junior one the second.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  The Tribunal shall have a President, who will remain in office two years, and may be re-elected; he shall be appointed by the Tribunal itself, from its own magistrates.  In defect of the President, the senior Judge shall preside.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  The Judges and Attorney General shall each receive a salary of four thousand dollars per annum.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  The superior Tribunals in a body shall be addressed with the title of "Your Excellency."  The same title shall be given to each of the benches thereof, and the President, Judges, and Attorney General shall officially be styled "Your Honor," (Senoria.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  Whenever the number of Judges necessary to complete the benches shall be defective, through absence, recusation, vacancy or any other cause, such deficiencies shall be supplied with primary Judges, (Jueces de primera instancia.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  Within the three first months after the installation of the superior Tribunal, it shall form a tariff of the fees and dues to be collected in the Department by the primary Judges, Alcaldes, Advocates, Clerks, and other judicial officers.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  The second bench of the superior Tribunal<ANCHOR ID="a-51">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm: shall take cognizance of the first appeals (en segunda instancia) in the civil and criminal causes of the Territory mentioned in the first attribution of Art. 22d, 5th Constitutional Law; and the first bench shall take cognizance of the second appeals, (en tercera instancia.)<ANCHOR ID="a-22">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-51">The powers of the superior Tribunals, as originally organized, are given in Law 5th, Art. 22d, of the Constitution of Mexico, but the transfer of this Territory to the United States has annulled or limited some of the powers so conferred.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-22">The causes referred to in the latter part of this Article are those against the superior Magistrates of the Territory.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  In the same manner shall causes instituted against Magistrates and Subalterns as mentioned in the second attribution<ANCHOR ID="a-23">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm: be dispatched; and the second appeal mentioned in said attribution shall belong to the first bench.  This bench shall also take cognizance of the right of appeal (recurso) mentioned in the 3d and 4th attributions.<ANCHOR ID="a-24">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm: In order to carry out the objects comprehended in the 7th, 8th, and 9th attributions,<ANCHOR ID="a-15">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-23">This has reference to causes against inferior Magistrates and the Subalterns and dependents of the Tribunal.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-24">These have reference to appeals from the Judges of first instance, and the adjustment of competences of jurisdiction arising between subaltern Judges.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-15">These have reference to the nomination of Judges, subalterns and dependents of the Courts.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  The superior Tribunal, including the President, all the Judges and the Attorney General, shall, in the capital of the Department, perform a general examination of prisons, including all places where prisoners may be detained subject to the ordinary jurisdiction, and make a report of said examination to government, that it may publish the same and take the necessary measures in virtue of its powers.  At these examinations two members of the Ayuntamiento shall attend (without any vote) with the Magistrates of the Tribunals, next to the senior one; and the Ayuntamiento shall be previously informed of the appointed hour, in order that it may appoint those who are to attend.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 10.  Public examinations shall likewise be made by two of the Judges, acting by turns, and commencing with the junior ones.  The President shall not be included; the Attorney <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>516</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXXVI</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 11.  At both of these examinations all the prisoners shall present themselves.  The Magistrates, besides the customary examination, shall personally inspect the habitations and scrupulously inquire into the treatment given to the prisoners, the food and attention bestowed upon them, and if they are loaded with more irons than the Judge has commanded, or are kept in solitary confinement (incomunicados) without orders.  But if there should be prisoners of another jurisdiction in the public prisons, they shall confine themselves to examining how they are treated, correct the abuses and defects of the jailors, and report to the respective Magistrates whatever further they may observe.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 12.  Whenever a prisoner shall ask to be heard, one of the Judges having cognizance of the cause shall go and hear what he has to say, and report to the corresponding bench.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 13.  The reports or notices of the institution of suits or causes, which the inferior Judges have to address to the superior Tribunal, shall be presented to the bench of second instance, for it to take the necessary measures for the speedy conclusion of the same, according as the nature and enormity of the crimes may require.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 14.  The superior Tribunal shall see that the primary Judges in criminal cases remit to it, quarterly, circumstantial lists of the causes finished during that period, and of those still pending, expressing the dates on which they commenced and their actual state of forwardness; which shall be submitted to the bench of second instance, in order that in view thereof, and after hearing the Attorney General, the necessary steps may be taken towards the speedy and exact administration of justice.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 15.  The Attorney General shall be heard in all criminal and civil causes in which the public interests or the ordinary jurisdiction are concerned.  When he acts as plaintiff, (actor,) or pleads his own rights (coadyuvare sus derechos,) he shall speak in Court before the attorney of the criminal, and may be consrained (apremiado) at the instance of the parties the same as any of them.  His replies, whether in civil or criminal cases, shall never be concealed so that the parties interested cannot see them, and he cannot be recused.  (recusado.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 16.  To constitute a sentence in a bench of three judges, two perfectly coinciding votes are requisite.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION II</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of the Courts of First Instance--(Primeria, Instancia</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  The Governor and Legislature, on the recommendation of the superior Tribunal, shall designate the number of Judges of this Court in the chief town (cabecera) of each district, in conformity with the laws.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  Where there is but one Judge of first instance to a district, he shall have both civil and criminal jurisdiction; if more than one, these are separate.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  Each Court shall have a Clerk and Recorder, (Escribano y Escribiente,) and an Executive officer, (Comisario.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  The salaries of the Judges and subalterns of this court is fixed by the Governor and superior Tribunal, in concert with the Departmental Legislature, to be afterwards approved of by the General Government.<ANCHOR ID="a-61">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-61">The salary of the Judge of Civil Courts was fixed at $1,500, with the stipulated fees of ffice.  Governor Riley, in his Proclamation, has sgnified his intention to pay this salary to the Judge of first instance in each political district of California.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  The Clerks or Notaries (Escribanos) of this Court are appointed by the superior Tribunal, on the recommendation of the Judges of the Court; the other subalterns are named by the Judges themselves, due notice of these appointments being given both to the Governor and superior Tribunal.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  These Judges, on entering upon their duties, must take the usual oath of office.  In case of sickness, absence, death, &amp;c., their places may be supplied <HI REND="italics">ad interim</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  No Judge of first instance can act in a civil or criminal case without the Clerk of the Court, (Escribano,) except in case there be no such Clerk, or where the case is too urgent to wait for his presence, in which case two witnesses must be called in, and the papers so witnessed must be afterwards turned over to the custody of the Clerk.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  The cognizance and jurisdiction of these Judges are limited to the judicial subjects of their territory.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  All law suits and civil or criminal causes, of whatever description, shall be brought forward and carried on before the respective Magistrate of first instance, excepting in cases wherein clergymen and military persons are privileged by the constitutional or other laws in force.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>517</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXXVII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 10.  No complaint, either civil or criminal, involving simply personal injuries, can be admitted without proving, with a competent certificate, that conciliatory measures have been attempted, (viz: by means of arbitrators or <HI REND="italics">hombres buenos</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 11.  From the preceding Art. are to be excepted, verbal processes; those of contest respecting chaplaincies, (capellanias colatias,) and other ecclesiastical causes of the same description, in which the parties interested cannot come to a previous arrangement; the causes which interest the public revenue, the municipal funds of towns, public establishments, minors, those deprived of the administration of their property, and vacant inheritances.  In the same manner, no conciliation is to be attempted for the recovery of any kind of contributions or taxes, whether national or municipal ones, nor for the recovery of debts which have the same origin.  Neither is it necessary in the trial of summary and very summary interdictions of possession, the denouncement of a new work, or a retraction; nor in promoting the faculty of inventories and distribution of inheritances, nor in other urgent cases of the same nature; but should a formal complaint have to be afterwards made which would cause a litigious process, then conciliation ought first to be attempted, but it must not take place in cases of bankruptcy where creditors sue for their dues; but it shall take place when any citizen has to demand judicially the payment of a debt, although it may arise from a public writing.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Note</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 12.  In the trial of causes which exceed one hundred dollars but do not exceed two hundred dollars, the Judges will take cognizance by means of a written process according to law, but without appeal; nevertheless the parties may take advantage of the appeal of necessity before the superior Tribunal, should the laws have been violated which regulate the mode of proceeding.  This appeal shall be referred to the same Judge, in the terms and for the purpose mentioned in Art. 20 of Sec. iv.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 13.  Any person who may be despoiled of or disturbed in his possessions, whether the aggressor be an ecclesiastic, a layman, or a military character, will apply to the legal Judge for restitution and protection; and cognizance of these matters are to be taken by means of the corresponding very summary process, or even by means of the plenary one of possession if the parties should desire it, with appeal to the respective superior Tribunal; the judgment of property (juicio de propriedad) being reserved to the competent Judges.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 14.  The Judges of the first instance, in their respective districts, will take cognizance, by way of precaution, with the Alcaldes, in the formation of inventories, justifications, <HI REND="italics">ad perpetuam</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 15.  They will likewise take cognizance of such civil and criminal causes respecting common crimes as may arise against the Alcaldes of their district.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 16.  Every sentence of first instance in criminal causes must be immediately notified to the person who entered the suit and to the culprit, and if either of them shall appeal, said causes must, without delay, be remitted to the superior tribunal, the parties being previously summoned.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 17.  If both the accused and culprit agree to the sentence, and the suit should be respecting trivial crimes for which the law imposes no corporeal punishment, the judge will execute the sentence.  But if the cause should be one respecting crimes which have such a punishment assigned to them.  The process shall be remitted to the superior tribunal, the time for appealing having passed, although the parties themselves should not appeal, they being previously cited.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 18.  In all civil causes, in which according to law the appeal should take place in both effects, and be clearly admitted, the original acts of the process shall be remitted to the superior tribunal at the costs of the appellant, the parties being previously cited, that they may make use of their rights.  But if said appeal be merely admitted in the devolutive effect and not in the suspensive one ( <HI REND="italics">efecto devolutivo y (no en el) suspensivo</HI>
196.sgm: ) [the former of which means, the cognizance which a superior judge takes of the determinations of an inferior one without suspending the execution of them; and the latter, the same thing together with the suspension of the execution-- <HI REND="italics">the Translator</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 19.  The Judges of first instance, in the place of their residence, if there be no superior tribunal there, will in public make the prision examinations required by law; two members of the Ayuntamiento will also be present at the general ones, but without a vote; and every month a report of said examinations will be rendered to the superior tribunal.  They will likewise go to the prison when any culprit asks for audience, and they will hear whatever he may have to say.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 20.  The inferior magistrate will also report to the superior tribunal, at furthest within the three days after commencing the causes, all such as they may be forming for crimes committed in the respective jurisdictions.  They will likewise send to said tribunal quarterly, a general list of those that they may have concluded in that time, and of such as still remain unfinished in their respective courts, expressing the state in which they may be and the dates of their commencement.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>518</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXXVIII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION III.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of Alcaldes and Justices of the Peace</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  It belongs exclusively to the Alcaldes of the Ayuntamientos and to the Justices of the Peace, in places whose population consists of one thousand or more inhabitants, to exercise in their jurisdiction, with respect to all classes of persons, the office of conciliators.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  It likewise belongs to such Alcaldes and Justices of the Peace to take cognizance of, and decide in their respective towns, all verbal processes which may occur, except those in which ecclesiastics and military persons are sued.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  It belongs likewise to them, to dictate in litigious cases the very urgent measures that will not admit being taken before the primary judges; and to take, under similar circumstances, the first steps in criminal causes, and also such others as they may be commissioned to do by the respective tribunals and primary courts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  Of the attributions comprehended in the three foregoing articles, the Justices of Peace of such places as do not contain one thousand inhabitants shall only exercise that of taking (whether in civil or criminal cases) such steps as from their urgency do not give time to apply to the nearest respective authorities.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  In order to verify the judgment of conciliation, whosoever may have to institute any civil suit, the value of which does not exceed one hundred dollars, or any criminal one respecting serious injuries, purely personal, shall make his complaint to the Alcalde or competent Justice of the Peace, demanding verbally to have the accused party summoned in order to commence the trial of conciliation, and said Alcalde or Justice of Peace will immediately have the summons made out, which must mention the object of the complaint, and fix the day, hour, and place, in which the parties have to appear, and both the accuser and the accused are to be told to bring each his arbitrator (hombre-bueno), who must be a citizen in the exercise of his rights, and completed his 25th year of age--[with us 21 years is the legal age.]</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  The accused party is bound to concur in obedience to the summons of the Alcalde or Justice of Peace, but should he not do so, a second summons must be sent to him to appear at some newly appointed time, under a penalty of from two to ten dollars fine; and should he still not come forward, it shall be considered that the means of conciliation have been attempted, and that the trial is at an end, ( <HI REND="italics">(i. e. the trial of conciliation</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  It shall likewise be considered that the means of conciliation have been tried, and that the trial is concluded, if the person summoned appear before the Alcade or Justice of Peace in obedience to the first or second summons, and say that he renounces the benefit of conciliation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  In the two cases treated of in the two foregoing articles, the corresponding record must be made in the respective book, and be signed in the first case by the Alcalde or Justice of Peace, the Plaintiff and Clerk, (Escribano,) if there be one, and it not by two assisting witnesses; and in the second case, by the Alcalde or Justice of Peace, the Plaintiff and Defendant; and whenever the latter does not make his appearance, but renounces the aforesaid benefit, he must necessarily do it in writing.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  When the parties do come forward, either personally or by means of their lawful representatives, to preceed with the trial of Conciliation, the Alcalde or Justice of Peace and the Arbitrators will make themselves acquainted with what the parties have to expose respecting the matter in dispute, and when the said parties retire, the Alcalde or Justice of Peace will hear the opinion of the Arbitrators, and will immediately, or within eight days at farthest, give the sentence which he may consider most fitting to avoid a law suit, and to bring about the mutual conformity of the parties.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 10.  Each Alcalde or Justice of Peace shall have a book entitled "BOOK OF CONCILIATIONS," in which he shall note down a concise account of what occurs in the trials of Conciliation, agreeably to what is ordered in the preceding article and in continuation of the Conciliatory Sentence dictated by the Alcalde or Justice of Peace, which must be notified to the parties interested in presence of the Arbitrators, in order that they may say whether they agree to it or not, which must also be noted down and be signed by the Alcalde or Justice, the Arbitrators, and parties interested.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 11.  When the parties agree to the Sentence, the certified copies of the proceedings which they may ask for shall be given to them in order that the corresponding authority may carry it into effect, and if either of the parties should not agree, the Alcalde or Justice of Peace will give him a certificate that the means of Conciliation have been attempted, but without success; the parties interested merely paying the costs of said certificates in the accustomed form.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 12.  In the same Book of Conciliations must be entered the record mentioned in Art. 8, and this Book must remain in the archives when the Alcalde or Justice of Peace conclude the time of their appointment.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>519</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XXXIX</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 13.  The fines mentioned in Art. 6 must be delivered to the respective Treasurers of the Ayuntamientos, in order that the aount of them may go towards paying the expenses of the books which are to be given to the Alcaldes and Justices of Peace.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 14.  These Alcaldes and Justices will decide by verbal process the civil complaints which do not exceed one hundred dollars, and the criminal ones respecting triffing injuries and other similar faults that do not merit any other punishment than a slight reprehension or correction.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 15.  The plaintiff or complainant who enters any suit of this kind, will apply to the competent Alcade or Justice, and make his complaint verbally, and this authority will cause the defendant to appear, ordering each party to bring his respective arbitrator with him, who must have the requisites mentioned in Art. 5.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 16.  In verbal processes, also, the Clerk (if there be one) will concur, or in his defect two assisting witnesses; and after the Alcalde or Justice of Peace and the arbitrators have made themselves acquainted with the complaint of the one party and the defence of the other, these parties shall retire and the Alcalde or Justice of Peace will hear the opinion of the arbitrators, and immediately or within eight days at farthest pronounce his definitive sentence or decision, which shall be ordered to be carried into execution by the same Alcalde or Justice of Peace, or by any other authority to which a proper certificate of said sentence be presented.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 17.  A concise account of the proceedings of these precesses shall be entered in a book called "Book of Verbal Processes," and in continuation, the definitive decision or sentence dictated on the subject, and this instrument must be signed by the Alcalde or Justice of Peace, the arbitrators, the parties interested and the Clerk or acting witnesses.  This book shall also be placed in the archives when the Alcaldes or Justices of Peace conclude their term of office.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 18.  Against the definitive sentences given in verbal processes, no other appeal can be admitted than that of the rsponsibility of the Alcaldes and Justices of Peace to the superior tribunal; and in said processes no fees are to be recovered, but merely the costs of the certificates that may be given.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 19.  The attributions mentioned in Arts. 4 and 5 must necessarily be exercised by the Alcaldes or Justices of Peace in presence of the Clerks, if there be such, and if not, before two assisting witnesses.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 20.  When the subject brought before the Alcaldes or Justices of Peace relates to the retention of the goods of a debtor who wishes to make away with or conceal them, the prohibition of a new work, or other matters of like urgency, the Alcaldes or Justices of Peace will themselves take such necessary steps as may be required to avoid the evils consequent on delay, and they will order the parties interested then to try the means of conciliation.</P>
196.sgm:<P>SECTION IV.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">General Laws</HI>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 1.  In every criminal suit, the sentence of first appeal (segunda instancia) shall cause execution when it is perfectly agreeable to the first sentence, or if the parties agree to it.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 2.  In criminal causes there cannot be less than one appeal (dos instancias) even when the accuser and the culprit agree to the first sentence.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 3.  All witnesses to be examined in any civil or criminal cause must necessarily be examined by the proper tribunals or magistrates which have cognizance of said causes, and if they should reside at other places, they must be examined by the Magistrate or Alcalde where they live.<ANCHOR ID="a-71">*</ANCHOR>
196.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="a-71">It may be a question whether this and some of the following articles are not modified by Arts. V. and VI. of the amendments to the Constitution of the United States.</NOTE>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 4.  Every person, of whatever class, privileges, or condition he may be, when he has to give his declaration as a witness in a criminal cause, is obliged to appear for this purpose before the Magistrate who has cognizance thereof, without the necessity of previous permission from his chiefs or superiors.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 5.  The confrontation of witnesses with the culprit shall only be practised when the Magistrate considers it absolutely necessary in order to find out the truth.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 6.  Both the confrontation mentioned in the preceding article and the ratifications, are to be made in the process immediately after having examined the witness; the culprit being made to appear in order that he may know him, and the witness summoned in the act of ratification, which must take place immediately after the culprit retires.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 7.  If the first steps of the process (information sumaria) take place before the culprit be apprehended, as soon as he is apprehended and his preparatory declaration shall have been taken, the witnesses which have to be examined must be summoned for the purposes mentioned in the preceding article.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 8.  No summons shall be sent which has not some relation to the crime, or which is judged to be useless or of no weight in the business as regards the eliciting of truth.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>520</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XL</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 9.  When the pleas alleged by the culprit have no relation to the crime, or cannot in any way diminish its enormity, or are unlikely or improbable, they shall be left out altogether without receiving the cause on proof (a'prueba;) in which case the trial (sumaria) being concluded, the culprit having been previously cited, and the Attorney General in the superior tribunal, it shall be delivered to the attorney or defender of the culprit for him to answer to the charges in the term of three days, which having taken place the definitive sentence shall be given.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 10.  When any criminal escapes he shall not be summoned by edicts or by the public crier; but requisitory letters shall be made out for his apprehension and the necessary steps taken for his recovery: in the mean time the trial shall be postponed, except as to collecting proof of the crime and its circumstances: but it shall be resumed when the apprehension takes place.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 11.  In cases where the plenary judgment has to be renewed, the cause shall be received on proof for a short time, to be postponed, according to its circumstances, as far as forty days; and only in the case of having to examine witnesses or to receive some other proof at such considerable distances as to make that term not sufficient, it may be postponed for sixty days, without any restitution or other recourse taking place in these terms.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 12.  When the criminals interpose an appeal against any interlocutory proceedings, or any other appeal that has to go to the tribunal of second or third instance, the continuation of the cause shall not be suspended; and, therefore, if the original acts which caused the appeal can not be forwarded, certified copies must be sent.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 13.  In all civil and criminal causes the interlocutory sentences must be pronounced within the precise term of three days; and the definitive ones shall be dictated by the superior tribunals within fifteen days after the first stage of the suit (vista) be concluded; and by the judges of first instance within eight days after finishing the causes.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 14.  In trials of property, plenary ones of possession, and any other civil trial wherein the amount disputed shall exceed $4,000, appeal may be made to the tribunal of the third instance if the parties wish it, although the second sentence agree with the first.</P>
196.sgm:<P>ART. 15.  In the same trials, if the amount in question be less than $4,000, the sentence of the tribunal of second instance will cause execution, if it correspond exactly with the first, that is if the second sentence neither adds nor takes away anything which alters the substance or intrinsic merit of the first instance; so that neither the condemnation to pay costs, nor any other demonstration of a similar nature, can be called in opposition to said agreement.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>521</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XLI</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>OFFICIAL CORRESPONDENCE.</HEAD>
196.sgm:<P><HSEP>EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT OF CALIFORNIA,<LB><HSEP><HI REND="italics">Monterey, September</HI>
196.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN: I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your communication of yesterday, respecting the mode of providing for the payment of the expenses of the convention now in session.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I consider myself authorized by the Executive of the United States to use the "civil funds" now in my hands for defraying the necessary expenses of the civil officers of the existing government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The necessary expenses of the convention will be paid by me from this fund, as far as I may have the means at my disposal; but, as these means may be limited, and as I am held responsible to the government of the United States for the expenditure of the money, I cannot say beforehand whether I shall feel authorized to pay all, or, if not all, what proportion of the expenses incurred by the convention.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</P>
196.sgm:<P>B. RILEY,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Brig. Gen. U.S. Army, and Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Messrs. C. T. Botts, E. O. Crosby, T. O. Larkin, Elam Brown, R. M. Price, <HI REND="italics">Committee</HI>
196.sgm:<P>EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monterey, September</HI>
196.sgm:<P>SIR: I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your note, (without date,) with a copy of a resolution of the committee, asking if I can place at the disposition of the convention, on or before the first day of October next, the sum of $70,000.  I have no authority to place any of the public money now under my control at the disposition of any other person; but, as stated in my letter of the 11th instant, I shall consider it my duty to pay, so far as my means will allow, all the necessary expenses of the convention.  I cannot, however, now say positively whether I shall have money enough at my disposal for the accomplishment of this object.  In order that your committee may judge of this contingency for yourselves, I enclose a copy of my letter of August 30 to Lieutenant Colonel Hooker.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</P>
196.sgm:<P>B. RILEY,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Brig. Gen. U.S.A., and Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Hon. C. T. Botts, <HI REND="italics">Chairman, &amp;c.</HI>
196.sgm:<P>EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monterey, August</HI>
196.sgm:<P>COLONEL: I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 12th instant, communicating the views of General Smith respecting my acts and duties as governor of California.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I must beg leave to dissent from some of these views, and to offer a few remarks in defence of the course which I have pursued in the administration of civil affairs in this country.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In the instructions issued from Washington to General Kearney in 1846, for his guidance in California, the establishment of port regulations was assigned to the commander of the Pacific squadron, while it was said "the appointment of temporary collectors at the several ports appertains to the civil governor of the province."  It was also directed that the duties at the custom-houses should be used for the support of the necessary officers of the civil government.  This division of duties and this disposition of the proceeds of the customs were continued during the whole war, except that for a part of one year the duties of collectors in some of the ports were performed by army and navy officers, while in others the civil collectors appointed by the governor of California were retained.  On the reception of the treaty of peace, Governor Mason, for reasons which have been communicated to government, determined to continue the collection of revenues in this country, on the authority which has been given him, until Conress should act in the matter, or orders to the contrary should be received from Washington.  He, therefore, as Governor of California, again appointed collectors in the ports where military officers had performed those duties, and collected the customs on all foreign goods as directed in the tariff of 1846--the commodore of the Pacific squadron continuing the direction of all matters relating to port reguations.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>522</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XLII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>A double necessity impelled the governor to this course: the country was in pressing need of these foreign goods, and Congress had established no port of entry on this coast; the want of a more complete organization of the existing civil government was daily increasing; and as Congress had made no provision for supporting a territorial government in this country, it was absolutely necessary to create a fund for that purpose from duties collected on these foreign goods.  It is true there was no law of Congress authorizing the collection of those duties, but at the same time the laws forbade the landing of the goods till the duties were paid.  Congress had declined to legislate on the subject, and both the President and Secretary of the Treasury acknowledged the want of power of the Treasury Department to collect revenue in California.  The Governor of California, therefore, assumed the responsibility of collecting this revenue for the support of the government of this country--a responsibility which he was fully justified in assuming by the necessity of the case, by the instructions which he had recived from Washington, (and which had never been countermanded,) and by the existing laws of the country.  It is not pretended that the Governor of California could derive any authority, either from the laws of this country or the instructions of the President, to collect revenue here, <HI REND="italics">after Congress</HI>
196.sgm:<P>On assuming command in this country as civil governor, I was directed to receive from Governor Mason all his instructions and communications, and to take them for my guidance in the administration of civil affairs.  Upon an examination of these instructions, and a full consultation with Governor Mason, I determined to continue the collection of the revenue till the general government should assume that power, and to add the proceeds to the "civil fund"--using that fund for the necessary expenses of the civil government.  Indeed, I had no other course left for me to pursue.  This foud formed my only means of defraying the expenses of the government, which were already great.  These expenses are daily increasing, and, as I have no power to impose taxes in this country, I cannot carry on the government without the moneys belonging to this "civil fund."  Under existing circumstances, the necessity of employing civil officers, and paying them the full salaries allowed by law, is too obvious to require comment.  I have pledged myself to pay these salaries from that fund, unless forbidden to do so by direct orders from Washington; and I shall redeem my pledge.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This "civil fund" was commenced in the early part of 1847, and has been formed and used in the manner pointed out in the early instructions to the governor of this Territory.  The money has been collected and disbursed by the "Governor of California," and by those appointed by him in virtue of his office.  He is, therefore, the person responsible for this money, both to the government and the parties from whom it was collected; and it can be expended only on his orders.  Not a cent of this money has been collected under the authority of any department of the army; nor can any such department, or any officer of the army, simply in virtue of his military commission, have any control, direct or indirect, over it.  It is true, some of this money has, from time to time, as the wants of the service required; been transferred to the different military departments; but this transfer was in the form of a <HI REND="italics">loan</HI>
196.sgm:; and the money so transferred is still due to the "civil fund," and should be returned.  The increased expenditures for the support of the civil government as it is now organized, and the pressing necessity of constructing prisions for the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>523</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XLIII</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>Entertaining these views of the correctness of the course which has been pursued by my predecessor and by myself respecting this "civil fund," I was not a little surprised at the ground assumed in your communication, that the collectors in California "are agents of the <HI REND="italics">military</HI>
196.sgm:<P>No collectors in California now hold, or have ever held, any appointments, commissions, or authority from any military department; nor have they ever received any orders or instructions from such sources.  All their powers have been derived from the Governor of California, and they have been subject to his orders only.  No disbursing officer of the army or of the general government has ever been allowed to draw upon this "civil fund," except in character of civil agent, or as a <HI REND="italics">loan</HI>
196.sgm:<P>If I mistake not, the opinion that the Governor of California has no control over the "civil fund" is of recent origin.  I am told that the civil order of General Mason, as <HI REND="italics">Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:, dated February 23, to the collector at San Francisco, was shown to General Smith on that day, and received his approbation; and that division orders No. 2, of the same date, were issued at the request of Governor Mason, for the purpose of showing the people of California that the course which had been adopted respecting the revenue on this coast accorded with the views of the general of the division.  Moreover, that when informed that all the temporary collectors in California held their authority from the <HI REND="italics">governor</HI>
196.sgm:, the General expressed no wish or desire that the system should be changed.  Granting that the military authorities here had a right to assume entire control of the revenue on this coast, although the President of the United States (if I mistake not) has clearly asserted that no such powers could be exercised by officers of the general government without the authority of Congress, it is nevertheless plain that no such power <HI REND="italics">has</HI>
196.sgm: ever been exercised.  If such a course was intended by General Smith's orders of February 23, these instructions were never properly carried into execution; nor until the receipt of your letter had I any intimation that such a course was at all desired.  The commanding general of the division was certainly aware that this whole revenue matter was managed by officers holding their authority from me as Governor of California, and that when money was wanted by the military departments, application was made to me to authorize the loan or temporary transfer from the "civil funds."  If, however, it now be the General's wish to assume a military control of the collection of duties on imports into California, I will immediately discharge the collectors appointed by the Governors of California, and surrender the entire direction of the matter to such military department or military officers as he may direct.  But for the money which <HI REND="italics">has already been collected</HI>
196.sgm: by the civil officers under my authority, I alone am responsible; and until further instructions from Washington, I shall continue to hold it, subject to my orders only, and to expend, as heretofore, such portions of it as may be required for the support of the existing civil government.  No military officer or military department will be allewed to exercise any control over it.  Let me not be understood as claiming for California any authority whatever over the duties on imports <HI REND="italics">after</HI>
196.sgm:<P>I have but a few words to add respecting that part of your letter which refers to the relations of the civil government with Indian affairs and the public lands.</P>
196.sgm:<P>General Kearney, some two years and a half ago, in virtue of his authority as Governor of California, appointed two sub-Indian agents, and immediately communicated these appointments to Washington.  The general government was also informed that these agents were paid from the "civil fund," and would be retained in office until the arrival of agents appointed by the proper authority at Washington.</P>
196.sgm:<P>No military officer has any control over these agents of the civil government, nor can they interfere in any way with the duties of the military officers.  I have never claimed to exercise any authority as civil governor over lands properly belonging to the public domain; it, however, is a question still undecided, whether the missions of California belong to the general government, to the government of California, or to the church.  The direction and preservation of this property have for many years been vested in the Governor of California, and this system will be continued <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>524</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XLIV</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>I beg leave to remark, in conlusion, that while I shall always be most happy to receive the advice and suggestions of the commanding generalof the division respecting my duties as civil governor of California, I must nevertheless be permitted to decide upon the measures of my own government; for as no military officer can be held accountable for my civil acts, so no such officer can exercise any control whatever over those acts.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</P>
196.sgm:<P>B. RILEY,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Brig. Gen. U.S. Army, and Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Brevet Lieutenant Colonel J. Hooker,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Com'g. Department, Ass't. Adj. General Pacific Division</HI>
196.sgm:<P>EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monterey, September</HI>
196.sgm:<P>GENTLEMEN: I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of yours of the 17th, asking for information respecting the mode of making out the accounts of the affairs of the convention.  Such accounts should in all cases be certified by the president of the convention <HI REND="italics">as just and true, and authorised by the convention</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</P>
196.sgm:<P>B. RILEY,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Brigadier General United States Army, and Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Messrs. E. O. Crosby, J. P. Walker, E. Brown, T. O. Larkin, J. Arm, <HI REND="italics">Committee &amp;c.</HI>
196.sgm:<P>STATE DEPARTMENT OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monterey, October</HI>
196.sgm:<P>MAJOR: I send you herewith a copy of the governor's proclamation of to-day, and of the constitunion just formed by the convention.  They will be printed together, in pamphlet form, for general circulation among the people.  No effort should be spared to have them printed and circulated with the least possible delay.</P>
196.sgm:<P>I enclose you a copy of proposals for printing by the proprietors of "Alta Californian;" but, if you can get it done with equal expedition and at less expense by any other press, you will do so.  These proposals were made with the understanding that the constitution would be printed in the two languages in parallel columns; but it was afterwards determined to print them separately, viz: 8,000 copies in the English and 2,000 in the Spanish language.  You may therefore be able to expedite the printing by contracting with separate presses for the printing, that is, with one for the English and the other for the Spanish.  Mr. Tefft has been employed by Captain Kane to take this to San Francisco, and to assist you in superintending the printing.  As soon as the work is completed, you will deliver to him the copies intended for the districts south of San Jose, including that district.  In distributing the printed copies of the Constitution, you will be guided by the ratio of representation as fixed in the schedule; but in dividing the Spanish and English copies, a larger proportion of the latter should be sent to the northern districts, and most of the former to the south.  Extra copies should be retained, on the first distribution, at San Francisco, to be sent south by the steamer, and north by other conveyances, so as to provide for the contingency of the loss of any of those first sent out.  Every care should be taken to make the distribution as general as possible, previous to the time of hold the first election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The Spanish translation will leave here on the 14th by express.  You can make your contract accordingly for the printing.  I will write you again by the express.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</P>
196.sgm:<P>H. W. HALLECK, <HI REND="italics">Brevet Captain, and Secretary of State</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Major R. Allen, <HI REND="italics">Civil Treasurer, San Francisco, California</HI>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>525</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XLV</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monterey, October</HI>
196.sgm:<P>GENERAL; The convention which assembled at this place on the 1st of September has completed its labors, and the constitution formed by that body was submitted on the 12th instant to the people for their approval, and I have no doubt of its being ratified by the almost unanimous vote of the qualified electors of this country.  A printed copy of this constitution is enclosed herewith.  You will see by examining the schedule that it is contemplated to put the new gevernment into operation on or soon after the 15th day of December next; and I shall then surrender my civil powers to whosoever may be designated under the constitution as the executive of the new State.  Whatever may be the legal objections to putting into operation a <HI REND="italics">State</HI>
196.sgm:<P>I have deemed it my duty to pay from the "civil fund" the current expenses of the convention, and also the salaries of officers as authorised by that body.  In the absence of any legislative assembly, I have regarded this convention as representing the wishes of the people of California in the matter of public expenditures.  It is true that the salaries and payments authorised by the convention were high, and by some may be considered extravagant; but in deciding upon their justice, we must take into consideration the peculiar state of the country, and the high prices paid here for every thing, even including the necessaries of life.  It, however, will continue to be my aim, as it has been heretofore, to keep the expenditures from the "civil funds" within the limits of the strictest economy; nevertheless, the expenses of a civil government in this country are now, and will be for years to come, very large.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The whole country remains remarkable quiet, and the civil officers encounter no serious difficulties in enforcing the laws.  It is therefore hoped and believed that the powers of the existing government will be found sufficiently ample to preserve the public tranquillity until it shall be replaced by a more perfect organization under the constitution.</P>
196.sgm:<P>For my views with respect to the proper disposition to be made of the mineral and agricultural lands in this country, with respect to the importance of immediately establishing a mint in California, and the use which should be made of the "civil funds" which have accrued from the customs collected here by the Governor of California previous to the assumption by the general government of the control of this matter, I would respectfully refer you to my former civil despatches.  The attention which I have given to these subjects since writing those despatches has only tended to confirm the opinions there expressed.</P>
196.sgm:<P>This despatch and the accompanying papers will be delivered to you by Mr. J. McHenry Hollingsworth, late lieutenant of the regiment of New York volunteers disbanded in this country.  He has, in accordance with the instructions of the Secretary of War, been furnished by the quartermaster's department with transportation to the place of his enlistment.  Mr. Hollingsworth has proved himself a faithful and trustworthy officer, and merits in every respect the confidence of the government.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</P>
196.sgm:<P>B. RILEY,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Brig. Gen. U.S.A., and Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Major General R. Jones, <HI REND="italics">Adjutant General of the Army, Washington, D.C</HI>
196.sgm:<P>EXECUTIVE DEPARTMENT OF CALIFORNIA,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Monterey, October</HI>
196.sgm:<P>GENERAL: Enclosed herewith are copies of all civil papers issued since the date of my last civil despatch.</P>
196.sgm:<P>The convention called by my proclamation of June 3, assembled at this place on the 1st ultimo, and has nearly completed its labors in forming a constitution to be submitted to the people for their ratification.  It has been determined by the unanimous vote of this convention (at least I am so informed) that the new government organized under this constitution, should it be ratified by the people, shall go into operation as soon as may be convenient after such ratification, and without waiting for the approval of Congress and the admission of California into the Union.  I have strong doubts of the legality of such a course, under the decision of the Supreme Conrt of the United States; but if it should be the wish of the people of California to put the new government into operation without awaiting the action of Congress, I shall deem it my duty, under the circumstances, to surrender my civil powers into the hands of the new executive, unless special orders to the contrary are received from Washington.</P>
196.sgm:<P>In my civil despatch of August 30, I explained the character of the "civil funds" now in my hands, and the use which would be made of them in defraying the expenses of the existin <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>526</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>XLVI</PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<P>I send herewith a copy of a report of Brevet Captain Wescott respecting the missions of San Jose and Santa Clara.  The temporary arrangement made for the care and management of this property, will be seen in the copies of civil papers transmitted with this despatch.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</P>
196.sgm:<P>B. RILEY,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Brig. Gen. U.S. Army, commanding Department, and Acting Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>Major General R. Jones,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Adjutant General U.S. Army, Washington, D.C</HI>
196.sgm:<P>THE MILITARY AND CIVIL GOVERNMENT.</P>
196.sgm:<P>PROCLAMATION.</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">To the People of California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>A new Executive having been elected and installed into office, in accordance with the provisions of the Constitution of the State, the undersigned hereby resigns his powers as Governor of California.  In thus dissolving his official connection with the people of this country, he would tender to them his heartfelt thanks for their many kind attentions, and for the uniform support which they have given to the measures of his administration.  The principal object of all his wishes is now accomplished--the people have a government of their own choice, and one which, under the favor of divine Providence, will secure their own prosperity and happiness, and the permanent welfare of the new State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Given at San Jose, California, this 20th day of December, A.D. 1849.</P>
196.sgm:<P>B. RILEY,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Brig. Gen. U.S.A., and Governor of California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>By the Governor: H.W. HALLECK,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Brevet Captain and Secretary of State</HI>
196.sgm:<P>HEADQUARTERS 10TH MILITARY DEPARTMENT,</P>
196.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">San Jose, California</HI>
196.sgm:<P>(Orders No. 41.)</P>
196.sgm:<P>1. The Brigadier General commanding the Department has this day relinquished the administration of civil affairs in California to the execution of the government organized under the provisions of the Constitution ratified by the people of California at the recent general election.</P>
196.sgm:<P>2.  Brevet Captain H. W. Halleck, Corps of Engineers, is relieved from duty as Secretary of State.</P>
196.sgm:<P>By order of GENERAL RILEY.</P>
196.sgm:<P>Ed. U. S. Canby, Ass't. Ad't. General.</P>
196.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>526</CONTROLPGNO>
196.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
196.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
196.sgm:<P>Proclamation of General Riley, dated June 3d, 1849.<LB>Journal of Proceedings, and Report of the Debates in the Convention of California.<LB>List of Delegates, including place of birth, former and present residence, age and profession.<LB>APPENDIX--<LB>Constitution of California.<LB>Memorial of the U.S. Senators and Representatives elect from California.<LB>Digest of the Spanish Laws, supposed to be in existence in California at the time of the adoption of the State Constitution.<LB>Official Correspondence.</P>
198.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-198</TITLE>
198.sgm:<TITLE>Phoenixiana; or, sketches and burlesques.  By John Phoenix: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
198.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
198.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
198.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
198.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
198.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
198.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
198.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>03-27495</LCCN>
198.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
198.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
198.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>PHOENIXIANA</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>PHOENIXIANA</P>
198.sgm:<P>OR</P>
198.sgm:<P>SKETCHES AND BURLESQUES</P>
198.sgm:<P>BY</P>
198.sgm:<P>JOHN PHOENIX</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">A NEW EDITION, ILLUSTRATED BY</HI>
198.sgm:<P>E. W. KEMBLE</P>
198.sgm:<P>WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY</P>
198.sgm:<P>JOHN KENDRICK BANGS <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>In the name of the Prophet.--FIGS<LB></HI>
198.sgm:<LB>NEW YORK<LB>D. APPLETON AND COMPANY<LB>MCMIII</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>COPYRIGHT, 1855, 1903, BY<LB>D. APPLETON AND COMPANY <HI REND="italics">Published, October, 1903</HI>
198.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>TO</P>
198.sgm:<P>DR. CHARLES M. HITCHCOCK</P>
198.sgm:<P>OF SAN FRANCISCO</P>
198.sgm:<P>MY EARLIEST, KINDEST, AND MOST CONSTANT FRIEND</P>
198.sgm:<P>THESE SKETCHES</P>
198.sgm:<P>ARE AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED</P>
198.sgm:<P>BY</P>
198.sgm:<P>THE AUTHOR</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>JOHN PHOENIX AND HIS WORK</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>"IN THE NAME OF THE PROPHET--FIGS!"--John Phoenix chose better than he knew when, at its first publication in 1855, he graced the title-page of his incomparable Phoenixiana with this legend.  It is so truly descriptive of the quality of the repast which he places before us in the sequence of pages so fruitful of the best of fun, that after all any more deeply critical estimate of his permanent value as a caterer to our risibles would seem superfluous.  One does not gather figs from thistles, and I am inclined to think that if this tree that is still putting forth leaves to-day had not produced good fruit in the long ago, we should not, a half century after, find anyone hardy enough to stand sponsor for it in an age that is by no means lacking in fruit-trees of its own.</P>
198.sgm:<P>From the day in the early seventies of a by-gone century when I was suspended from school for a joyous period of twenty-four hours for turning the solemn function of declamation into a riotous orgie of giggling by reciting Phoenix's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:Maritime Anecdote in which old <HI REND="italics">Miss Tarbox</HI>
198.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Hardy Lee</HI>
198.sgm:<P>In later periods under more serious conditions his influence has been much the same in its general effect, for I know and have known of no better relief from the cares and vexations of the great struggle than that which these same pages afford him who, in the midst of his perplexities, takes refuge therein.  Here we find good, wholesome, honest fun--fun from a pen that eased its own hours of toil by the lively recreations in which it indulged itself; and I can not but think that just as the vagarious fancies of Squibob have served as a sort of safety-valve to many a reader oppressed by the complications of the world, so they must have served the heart and mind of him who conceived them.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Had Lieutenant George H. Derby been a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>x</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>There are in various parts of the country today silent witnesses to his skill as an engineer and fidelity as a servant of his country, but the greater fame which will attach to his name comes from the things of his spirit which throughout all his trials remained unaffectedly simple, sunny, and helpful, both to self and to others.  The fact, and it seems to be the fact, that he turned to his pen for the meed of pleasure which comes from forgetfulness of the trials incident to the day's work, appears to me the chief reason for his unquestioned success as a fun-maker.  There was that in his nature which struggled always for expression, even under the most unpromising conditions, and which, held in restraint by more pressing things, once given an outlet, bubbled forth with all the vigor and spontaneity of a geyser.  One finds no trace of a taskmaster driving his muse in Phoenix's fun, and for that reason it is of the best.</P>
198.sgm:<P>In reading over this little volume, the greater part of the contents of which was written nearly fifty years ago, one is impressed with the perennial quality of its satire.  Just as the human nature of Shakespeare is equally the human nature of our own time, so does the satire of John Phoenix ring true in our present age.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xi</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Another remarkable feature of this <HI REND="italics">vade mecum</HI>
198.sgm: of delicious nonsense is its extraordinary range.  What indeed do we <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
198.sgm: find in its pages save possibly recipes for making pies, puddings, and sauces, and lessons on etiquette?  All forms of literature are to be found here.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xii</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>I am personally glad that this little treasury of humor is to have a new setting and a wider circle of acquaintance, for it deserves it; and, moreover, it is a sufficient answer to those pessimistic observers who say that American Humor is dead.  This volume is a living refutation to the contrary, and for so long a time as Phoenix survives in the spirit, the body of American humor will have an abundance of the breath of life left in it.</P>
198.sgm:<P>JOHN KENDRICK BANGS.</P>
198.sgm:<P>PROFILE HOUSE, N.H., <HI REND="italics">August 12, 1903</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P><HSEP>PAGE<LB>OFFICIAL REPORT OF PROFESSOR JOHN PHOENIX, A.M.<HSEP>3<LB>Of a Military Survey and Reconnoissance of the route from San Francisco to the <HI REND="italics">Mission of Dolores</HI>
198.sgm:, made with a view to ascertaining the practicability of connecting those points by a Railroad.<LB>A NEW SYSTEM OF ENGLISH GRAMMAR<HSEP>29<LB>MUSICAL REVIEW EXTRAORDINARY<HSEP>47<LB>Theatrical Criticism--The Performance of Tarbox's "Ode Symphonie," "The Plains," at the San Diego Odeon.<LB>LECTURES ON ASTRONOMY<HSEP>59<LB>Introductory--Chapter I. The Sun.  Chapter II. Mercury, Venus, the Earth, the Moon.<LB>PISTOL SHOOTING--A COUNTER CHALLENGE<HSEP>81<LB>ANTIDOTE FOR FLEAS<HSEP>86<LB>PHOENIX AT THE MISSION DOLORES<HSEP>88<LB>SQUIBOB IN BENICIA<HSEP>95<LB>SQUIBOB IN SONOMA<HSEP>106<LB>SQUIBOB IN SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>111 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiv</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:PHOENIX INSTALLED EDITOR OF THE SAN DIEGO HERALD<HSEP>119<LB>His Salutatory--Mr. Kerran and the Chaplain--The Squire's Story--Advertises for a Library--The Comedy of Errors--Interview between Governor Bigler and Judge Ames--The San Diego Boys run forty-eight hours--Phoenix advertises for a Servant--An apt Quotation--Charley Poole's Water--"Many a Slip 'tween the Cup and the Lip"--Discourses on Matters Political--Receives a Communication from "Leonidas"--Comments thereon--An incident of the Election--A Game of Poker--Courageous Attack on a Spaniard--A Syllogism--Return of the Editor--Phoenix's Valedictory--Defends his erratic Editorial course, and finally turns Democrat--Interview between the Editor and Phoenix--Desperate Personal Encounter, in which both parties get badly beaten--The matter amicably settled "without prejudice to the honor of either party."<LB>ILLUSTRATED NEWSPAPERS<HSEP>147<LB>Phoenix issues an Illustrated edition of the Herald--Magnificent and costly engravings, including the celebrated first interview between Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe and the Duchess of Sutherland--Landseer's View of a San Diego Ranch.<LB>SANDYAGO--A SOLIQUY<HSEP>158<LB>FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION IN SAN DIEGO<HSEP>161<LB>Procession--Oration--Dinner, &amp;c.<LB>MELANCHOLY ACCIDENT<HSEP>165<LB>Death of a Young Man--Mr. Mudge's Durge on the Deth of the Same--Also an Epitaff.<LB>SECOND, THIRD AND FOURTH EDITIONS OF THE PICTORIAL HERALD<HSEP>170<LB>THE SAN FRANCISCO ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETY, AND CALIFORNIA ACADEMY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES<HSEP>176</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xv</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>THE LADIES' RELIEF SOCIETY<HSEP>185<LB>Extraordinary Proceedings--Strong-minded Women--Phoenix horror-stricken at finding his wife among them--He swoons--Is discovered and is unceremoniously kicked out of the Room.<LB>INAUGURATION OF THE NEW COLLECTOR!  TREMENDOUS EXCITEMENT<HSEP>191<LB>SQUIBOB ABHORS STREET INTRODUCTIONS<HSEP>202<LB>THE LITERARY CONTRIBUTION BOX<HSEP>207<LB>Lines to Lola Montes.<LB>RETURN OF THE COLLECTOR<HSEP>211<LB>Thrilling and Frantic Excitement among Office-Seekers--Procession and Speech.<LB>PHOENIX TAKES AN AFFECTIONATE LEAVE OF SAN FRANCISCO<HSEP>219<LB>PHOENIX IS ON THE SEA<HSEP>229<LB>The Steamer Northerner--Capt. Isham--Dick Whiting, the <HI REND="italics">ne plus ultra</HI>
198.sgm: of Steamboat Captains--The Downfall of a brace of "Snobs"--Curses, loud and deep--Arrival at San Diego.<LB>PHOENIX IN SAN DIEGO<HSEP>241<LB>Description of the Plaza--Prediction as to its Future Importance--Old Town--Who he met there, and what he thought of them, &amp;c., &amp;c.<LB>CAMP REMINISCENCES<HSEP>253<LB>Dennis Mulligan and the Owl--A Dinner; choice of Dishes--Col. S--at Church, thinking aloud--Col. Magruder's Serenade Party: "My name is Jake Keyser."</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS<HSEP>263<LB>Life and Times of Joseph Bowers the elder.<LB>PHOENIX AT BENICIA<HSEP>277<LB>The Methodist Elder--Dr. Tushmaker's Invention--Its Application--Fatal Consequences--Maritime Anecdote--The Schooner Two Susans and Miss Tarbox.<LB>LECTURES ON ASTRONOMY (Continued)<HSEP>287<LB>Correspondence--Mars--Jupiter--Saturn--Herschel--Neptune--The Asteroids--The Fixed Stars.<LB>A LEGEND OF THE TEHAMA HOUSE<HSEP>311</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>2</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>PHOENIXIANA</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>3</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<BODY><DIV><HEAD>OFFICIAL REPORT OF PROFESSOR JOHN PHOENIX, A.M.</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Of a Military Survey and Reconnoissance of the route from San Francisco to the Mission of Dolores, made with a view to ascertaining the practicability of connecting those points by a Railroad</HI>
198.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n1-11">*</ANCHOR>
198.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-11">The Mission Dolores is only 2 1/2 miles from the City Hall of San Francisco, and a favorite suburban locality, lying within the limits of the City Survey.  This fact noted for the benefit of distant readers of these sketches.</NOTE>
198.sgm:<P>MISSION OF DOLORES, Feb. 15, 1855.</P>
198.sgm:<P>IT having been definitely determined, that the great Railroad, connecting the City of San Francisco with the head of navigation on Mission Creek, should be constructed without unnecessary delay, a large appropriation ($120,000) was granted, for the purpose of causing thorough military examinations to be made of the proposed routes.  The routes, which had principally attracted the attention of the public, were "the Northern," following the line of Brannan Street, "the Central," through Folsom Street, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>4</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:Having notified that Honorable Body of my acceptance of the important trust confided to me, in a letter, wherein I also took occasion to congratulate them on the good judgment they had evinced, I drew from the Treasury <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>5</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>In a few days my arrangements were completed, and my scientific corps organized, as follows:--</P>
198.sgm:<P>JOHN PHOENIX, A.M.<HSEP>Principal Engineer and Chief Astronomer.</P>
198.sgm:<P>LIEUT. MINUS ROOT<HSEP>Apocryphal Engineer.  First Assistant Astronomer.</P>
198.sgm:<P>LIEUT. NONPLUS A. ZERO<HSEP>Hypercritical Engineer.  Second Assistant Astronomer.</P>
198.sgm:<P>DR. ABRAHAM DUNSHUNNER,<HSEP>Geologist.</P>
198.sgm:<P>DR. TARGEE HEAVYSTERNE<HSEP>Naturalist.</P>
198.sgm:<P>HERR VON DER WEEGATES<HSEP>Botanist.</P>
198.sgm:<P>DR. FOGY L. BIGGUNS<HSEP>Ethnologist.</P>
198.sgm:<P>DR. TUSHMAKER<HSEP>Dentist.</P>
198.sgm:<P>ENRY HALFRED JINKINS, R.A.<HSEP>Draftsmen.</P>
198.sgm:<P>ADOLPHE KRAUT<HSEP>Draftsmen.</P>
198.sgm:<P>HI FUN<HSEP>Interpreter.</P>
198.sgm:<P>JAMES PHOENIX (my elder brother)<HSEP>Treasurer.</P>
198.sgm:<P>JOSEPH PHOENIX<HSEP>ditto<HSEP>Quartermaster.</P>
198.sgm:<P>WILLIAM PHOENIX (younger brother)<HSEP>Commissary.</P>
198.sgm:<P>PETER PHOENIX<HSEP>ditto<HSEP>Clerk.</P>
198.sgm:<P>PAUL PHOENIX (my cousin)<HSEP>Sutler</P>
198.sgm:<P>REUBEN PHOENIX  ditto<HSEP>Wagon-Master.</P>
198.sgm:<P>RICHARD PHOENIX (second cousin)<HSEP>Assistant ditto.</P>
198.sgm:<P>These gentlemen, with one hundred and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>21</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>6</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:eighty-four laborers employed as teamsters, chainmen, rodmen, etc., made up the party.  For instruments, we had 1 large Transit Instrument (8 inch achromatic lens), 1 Mural Circle, 1 Altitude and Azimuth Instrument (these instruments were permanently set up in a mule-cart, which was backed into the plane of the true meridian, when required for use), 13 large Theodolites, 13 small ditto, 8 Transit Compasses, 17 Sextants, 34 Artificial Horizons, 1 Sidereal Clock, and 184 Solar Compasses.  Each employee was furnished with a gold chronometer watch, and, by a singular mistake, a diamond pin and gold chain; for directions having been given, that they should be furnished with " <HI REND="italics">chains and pins</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Every man was suitably armed, with four of Colt's revolvers, a Minie rifle, a copy of Colonel Benton's speech on the Pacific Railroad, and a mountain howitzer.  These last-named heavy articles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>7</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>On consulting with my assistants, I had determined to select, as a base for our operations, a line joining the summit of Telegraph Hill with the extremity of the wharf at Oakland, and two large iron thirty-two pounders were accordingly procured, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>8</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:at great expense imbedded in the earth, one at each extremity of the line, to mark the initial points.  On placing compasses over these points to determine the bearing of the base, we were extremely perplexed by the unaccountable local attraction that prevailed; and were compelled, in consequence, to select a new position.  This we finally concluded to adopt between Fort Point and Saucelito; but, on attempting to measure the base, we were deterred by the unexpected depth of the water intervening, which, to our surprise, was considerably over the chain-bearers' heads.  Disliking to abandon our new line, which had been selected with much care and at great expense, I determined to employ in its measurement a reflecting instrument, used very successfully by the United States Coast Survey.  I therefore directed my assistants to procure me a "HELIOTROPE," but after being annoyed by having brought to me successively a sweet-smelling shrub of that name and a box of "Lubin's Extract" to select from, it was finally ascertained that no such instrument could be procured in California.  In this extremity, I bethought myself of using as a substitute the flash of gunpowder.  Wishing to satisfy myself of its practicability by an experiment, I placed Dr. Dunshunner at a distance of forty paces from my Theodolite, with a flint-lock musket, carefully primed, and directed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>9</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Observing Dr. Dunshunner lying on his back in one direction, and my hat, which had been violently torn from my head, at about the same distance in another, I concluded that the musket had been accidentally loaded.  Such proved to be the case; the marks of three buckshot were found in my hat, and a shower of screws, broken lenses and pieces of brass, which shortly fell around us, told where the ball had struck, and bore fearful testimony to the accuracy of Dr. Dunshunner's practice.  Believing these experiments more curious than useful, I abandoned the use of the "Heliotrope" or its substitutes, and determined to reverse the usual process, and arrive at the length of the base line by subsequent triangulation.  I may as well state here, that this course was adopted and resulted to our entire satisfaction; the distance from Fort Point to Saucelito by the solution of a mean of 1,867,434,926,465 triangles, being determined to be exactly <HI REND="italics">three hundred and twenty-four feet</HI>
198.sgm:.  This <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>10</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:result differed very much from our preconceived ideas and from the popular opinion; the distance being generally supposed to be some ten miles; but I will stake my professional reputation on the accuracy of our work, and there can, of course, be no disputing the elucidations of science, or facts demonstrated by mathematical process, however incredible they may appear <HI REND="italics">per se</HI>
198.sgm:<P>We had adopted an entire new system of triangulation, which I am proud to claim (though I hope with becoming modesty) as my own invention.  It simply consists in placing one leg of a tripod on the initial point, and opening out the other legs as far as possible; the distance between the legs is then measured by a two-foot rule and noted down; and the tripod moved, so as to form a second triangle, connected with the first, and so on, until the country to be triangulated has been entirely gone over.  By using a large number of tripods, it is easily seen with what rapidity the work may be carried on, and this was, in fact, the object of my requisition for so large a number of solar compasses, the tripod being in my opinion the only useful portion of that absurd instrument.  Having given Lieutenant Root charge of the triangulation and detached Mr. Jinkins with a small party on hydrographical duty (to sound a man's well, on the upper part of Dupont Street, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>11</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:report thereon), on the 5th of February I left the Plaza, with the <HI REND="italics">savans</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Besides the mules drawing the cart which carried the transit instrument, I had procured two fine pack-mules, each of which carried two barrels of ale for the draftsmen.  Following the tasteful example of that gallant gentleman who conducted the Dead Sea Expedition, and wishing likewise to pay a compliment to the administration under which I was employed, I named the mules "Fanny Pierce," and "Fanny Bigler."  Our <HI REND="italics">corte&acute;ge</HI>
198.sgm: passing along Kearny Street attracted much attention from the natives, and indeed, our appearance was sufficiently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>12</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>First came the cart, bearing our instruments; then a cart containing Lieutenant Zero with a level, with which he constantly noted the changes of grade that might occur; then one hundred and fifty men, four abreast, armed to the teeth, each wheeling before him his personal property and a mountain howitzer; then the <HI REND="italics">savans</HI>
198.sgm:<P>I had made arrangements to measure the length of Kearny Street by two methods; first, by chaining its sidewalks, and secondly, by a little instrument of my invention called the "Go-it-ometer."  This last consists of a straight rod of brass, firmly strapped to a man's leg and connected with a system of clock-work placed on his back, with which it performs, when he walks, the office of a <HI REND="italics">ballistic pendulum</HI>
198.sgm:.  About one foot below the ornamental buttons on the man's back appears a dial-plate connected with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>13</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>We arrived at the end of Kearny Street, and encamped for the night about sundown, near a large brick building, inhabited by a class of people called "The Orphans," who, I am credibly informed, have no fathers or mothers!  After seeing the camp properly arranged, the wheelbarrows parked and a guard detailed, I sent for the chainmen and "Go-it-ometer" bearer, to ascertain the distance travelled during the day.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Judge of my surprise to find that the chainmen, having received no instructions, had simply drawn the chain after them through the streets, and had no idea of the distance whatever.  Turning from them in displeasure, I took from the "Go-it-ometer" the number of paces marked, and on working the distance, found it to be four miles and a-half.  Upon close questioning the bearer, William Boulder (called by his associates, "Slippery Bill"), I ascertained that he had been in a saloon in the vicinity, and after drinking five glasses of a beverage, known among the natives as " <HI REND="italics">Lager Bier</HI>
198.sgm:," he had danced a little for their amusement.  Feeling very much dissatisfied with the day's survey, I stepped out of the camp, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>14</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0005" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE GO-IT-OMETER.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>15</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:stopping an omnibus, asked the driver how far he thought it to the Plaza?  He replied, "Half a mile," which I accordingly noted down, and returned very much pleased at so easily obtaining so much valuable information.  It would appear, therefore, that "Slippery Bill," under the influence of five glasses (probably 2 1\2 quarts) of " <HI REND="italics">Lager Bier</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Kearny Street, of which I present above a spirited engraving from a beautiful drawing by Mr. Kraut, is a pass, about fifty feet in width.  The soil is loose and sandy, about one inch in depth, below which Dr. Dunshunner discovered a stratum of white pine, three inches in thickness, and beneath this again, sand.</P>
198.sgm:<P>It is densely populated, and smells of horses.  Its surface is intersected with many pools of <HI REND="italics">sulphuretted protoxide of hydrogen</HI>
198.sgm:, and we found several specimens of a vegetable substance, loosely distributed, which is classed by Mr. Weegates as the <HI REND="italics">stalkus cabagiensis</HI>
198.sgm:<P>It being late in the evening when our arrangements for encamping were completed, we saw but little of the natives until the next morning, when <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>16</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>We were surprised to find them of diminutive stature, the tallest not exceeding three feet in height.  They were excessively mischievous, and disposed to steal such trifling things as they could carry away.  Their countenances are of the color of dirt, and their hair white and glossy as the silk of maize.  The one that we took to be their chief, was an exceedingly diminutive personage, but with a bald head which gave him a very venerable appearance.  He was dressed in a dingy robe of jaconet, and was borne in the arms of one of his followers.  On making them a speech, proposing a treaty, and assuring them of the protection of their great Father, Pierce, the chief was affected to tears, and on being comforted by his followers, repeatedly exclaimed, "da, da,--da, da;" which we were informed by the interpreter, meant "father," and was intended as a respectable allusion to the President.  We presented him afterward with some beads, hawk-bells, and other presents, which he immediately thrust into his mouth, saying "Goo," and crowing like a cock; which was rendered by the interpreter into an expression of high satisfaction.  Having made presents to all his followers, they at length left us very well pleased, and we shortly after took up our line of march.  From the notes of Dr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>17</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"Kearney Street native; name--Bill;--height, two feet nine inches;--hair, white;--complexion, dirt color;--eyes, blue;--no front teeth;--opal at extremity of nose;--dress, a basquine of bluish bombazine, with two gussets, ornamented down the front with <HI REND="italics">crochet</HI>
198.sgm: work of molasses candy, three buttons on one side and eight button holes on the other--leggings of tow-cloth, fringed at the bottoms and permitting free ventilation behind--one shoe and one boot;--occupation, erecting small pyramids of dirt and water; when asked what they were, replied `pies,' (word in Spanish meaning <HI REND="italics">feet</HI>
198.sgm:<P>We broke up our encampment and moved north by compass across Market Street, on the morning of the 6th, and about noon had completed the survey as far as the corner of Second Street.</P>
198.sgm:<P>While crossing Market Street, being anxious to know the exact time, I concluded to determine it by observation.  Having removed the Sidereal Clock from the cart, and put it in the street, we placed the cart in the plane of the Meridian, and I removed the eye and object-glass of the transit, for the purpose of wiping them.  While busily engaged in this manner, an individual, whom I have reason to believe is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>33</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>18</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:connected with a fire company, approached, and seeing the large brazen tube of the transit pointed to the sky, mistook it for a huge speaking trumpet.  Misled by this delusion, he mounted the cart, and in an awful tone of voice shouted through the transit " <HI REND="italics">Wash her, Thirteen</HI>
198.sgm:!" but having miscalculated the strength of his lungs, he was seized with a violent fit of coughing, and before he could be removed had completely coughed the vertical hairs out of the instrument.  I was in despair at this sudden destruction of the utility of our most valuable instrument, but fortunately recollecting a gridiron, that we had among the kitchen apparatus, I directed Dr. Heavysterne to hold it up in the plane of the true Meridian, and with an opera glass watched and noted by the clock the passage of the sun's center across the five bars.  Having made these observations, I requested the principal computer to work them out, as I wished to ascertain the time immediately; but he replying that it would take some three months to do it, I concluded not to wait, but sent a man into the grocery, corner of Market and Second, to inquire the time, who soon returned with the desired information.  It may be thought singular, that with so many gold watches in our party, we should ever be found at a loss to ascertain the time; but the fact was that I had directed every one of our employees to set his watch <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>19</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:by Greenwich mean time, which, though excellent to give one the longitude, is for ordinary purposes the meanest time that can be found.  A distressing casualty that befell Dr. Bigguns on this occasion may be found worthy of record.  An omnibus, passing during the time of observation, was driven carelessly near our Sidereal Clock, with which it almost came into contact.  Dr. Bigguns, with a slight smile, remarked that "the clock <HI REND="italics">was nearly run down</HI>
198.sgm:<P>From the corner of Market to the corner of Second and Folsom Streets, the route presents no object of interest worthy of mention.  We were forced to the conclusion, however, that little throwing of stones prevails near the latter point, as the inhabitants mostly live in glass houses.  On the 8th we had brought the survey nearly up to Southwick's Pass on Folsom Street, and we commenced going through the Pass on the morning of the 9th.  This pass consists of a rectangular ravine, about 10 feet in length, the sides lined with pine boards, with a white oak ( <HI REND="italics">quercus albus</HI>
198.sgm: ) bar, that at certain occasions forms across, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>20</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The following passages relating to this portion of the route, transcribed from the Geological Notes of Dr. Dunshunner, though not directly connected with the objects of the survey, are extremely curious in a scientific point of view, and may be of interest to the general reader.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"The country in the vicinity of the route, after leaving Southwick's Pass, is very productive, and I observed with astonishment, that red-headed children appear to grow spontaneously.  A building was pointed out to me, near our line of march, as the <HI REND="italics">locale</HI>
198.sgm: of a most astounding agricultural and architectural phenomenon, which illustrates the extreme fertility of the soil in a remarkable degree.  A small pine wardrobe, which had been left standing by the side of the house (a frame cottage with a piazza), at the commencement of the rainy season, took root, and in a few weeks grew to the prodigious height <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>21</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"This singular phenomenon was taken advantage of by the proprietors; doors and windows were cut in the wardrobe, a chimney erected, and it now answers every purpose of an addition to the original cottage, being two stories in height!  This, doubtless, appears almost incredible, but fortunately the house and attached wardrobe may be seen any day, from the road, at a trifling expense of omnibus hire, by the sceptical.  Some distance beyond, rises a noble structure, built entirely of cut-wood, called `The Valley House,' by Mrs. Hubbard."  Not imagining that a venial species of profanity was conveyed by this legend, I concluded that Mrs. Hubbard was simply the proprietor.  This brought to my mind the beautiful lines of a primitive poet, Spenser,<ANCHOR ID="n1-21">*</ANCHOR>
198.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-21">The Doctor is in error; the lines quoted are from Chaucer.--J. P.</NOTE>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Old Mother Hubbard went to the cupboard<LB>To get her poor dog a bone;<LB>But when she got there, the cupboard was bare,<LB>And so the poor dog got none.'"</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"Feeling curious to ascertain if this were, by any possibility, the ancient residence of the heroine of these lines, perchance an ancestress of the present proprietor, I ventured to call and inquire; and my antiquarian zeal was rewarded by the information that such was the case; and that, if I returned at a later hour during the evening, I could be allowed a sight of the closet, and a view of the skeleton of the original dog.  Delighted with my success, I returned accordingly, and finding the door closed, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>22</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:ventured to knock: when a sudden shower of rain fell, lasting but about five seconds, but drenching me to the skin.  Undeterred by this <HI REND="italics">contretemps</HI>
198.sgm:, I elevated my umbrella and knocked again, loudly, when a violent concussion upon the umbrella, accompanied by a thrill down the handle, which caused me to seat myself precipitately in a bucket by the side of the door, convinced me that electrical phenomena of an unusual character were prevalent, and decided me to return with all speed to our encampment.  Here I was astounded by discovering inverted on the summit of my umbrella, a curious and deeply interesting vase, of singularly antique shape, and composed, apparently, of white porcelain.  Whether this vase fell from the moon, a comet, or a passing meteor, I have not yet decided; drawings of it are being prepared, and the whole subject will receive my thorough investigation at an early day.<ANCHOR ID="n1-31">*</ANCHOR>
198.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-31">This curious antique, to which I have given the name of the "Dunshunner Vase," has singularly the appearance of a <HI REND="italics">wash basin</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"I subsequently attempted to pursue my investigations at `The Valley House,' but the curt manner of the proprietor led me to suspect that the subject was distasteful, and I was reluctantly compelled to abandon it.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Near `The Valley House,' I observed an advertisement of `The Mountain View,' by P. Buckley; but the building in which it is exhibited being closed, I had no opportunity to judge of the merits of the painting, or the skill of Mr. Buckley as an artist.  A short distance further, I discovered a small house occupied by a gentleman, who appeared engaged in some description of traffic with the emigrants; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>23</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:and on watching his motions intently, my surprise was great to find that his employment consisted in selling them small pieces of pasteboard <HI REND="italics">at fifty cents apiece</HI>
198.sgm:!  Curious to know the nature of these valuable bits of paper, I watched carefully the proprietor's motions through a window for some hours; but being at length observed by him, I was requested to leave--and I left.  This curious subject is, therefore, I regret to say, enwrapped in mystery, and I reluctantly leave it for the elucidation of some future <HI REND="italics">savant</HI>
198.sgm:.  The beautiful idea, originated by Col. Benton, that buffaloes and other wild animals are the pioneer engineers, and that subsequent explorations can discover no better roads than those selected by them, would appear to apply admirably to the Central Route.  Many pigs, singly and in droves, met and passed me continually; and as the pig is unquestionably a more sagacious animal than the buffalo, its preference for this route is a most significant fact.  I was, moreover, informed by the emigrants, that this route was `the one followed by Col. Fremont when he lost his men.'  This statement must be received <HI REND="italics">cum grano salis</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"The climate in these latitudes is mild; snow appears to be unknown, and we saw but little ice; what there was being sold at twenty-five cents per lb.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"The geological formation of the country is not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"Considering the innumerable villages of pigs to be found located on the line of march, and the consequent effect produced on the atmosphere, I would respectfully suggest to the Chief Engineer the propriety of changing the name of the route by a slight alteration in the orthography, giving it the appropriate and euphonious title of the ` <HI REND="italics">Scent</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"Respectfully submitted,</P>
198.sgm:<P>"ABRAHAM DUNSHUNNER, LL.D.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"P.G.C.R.R.R.S."</P>
198.sgm:<P>From Southwick's Pass, the survey was continued with unabated ardor until the evening of the 10th instant, when we had arrived opposite Mrs. Freeman's "American Eagle," where we encamped.  From this point a botanical party under Prof. Weegates was sent over the hills to the S. and W. for exploration.  They returned on the 11th, bringing a box of sardines, a tin can of preserved whortleberries, and a bottle of whisky, as specimens of the products of the country over which they had passed.  They reported discovering on the old plank road, an inn or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:hostel kept by a native American Irishman, whose sign exhibited the Harp of Ireland encircling the shield of the United States, with the mottoes <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"ERIN GO UNUM,<LB>E PLURIBUS BRAGH."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>On the 14th the party arrived in good health and excellent spirits at the "Nightingale," Mission of Dolores.</P>
198.sgm:<P>History informs us, that <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The Nightingale club at the village was held,<LB>At the sign of the Cabbage and Shears."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>It is interesting to the Antiquarian to look over the excellent cabbage garden, still extant immediately <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>41</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The survey and <HI REND="italics">reconnoissance</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Some three months must elapse, however, before this can be done, as the triangulation has yet to be perfectly computed, the sub-reports examined and compiled, the observations worked out, and the maps and drawings executed.  Besides, I have received a letter from certain parties interested in the Southern and Northern routes, informing me that if I suspend my opinion on the "Great Central" for the present, it will be greatly to my interest--and as my interest is certainly my principal consideration, I shall undoubtedly comply with their request, unless, indeed, greater inducement is offered to the contrary.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Meanwhile I can assure the public, <HI REND="italics">that a great deal may certainly be said in favor of the Central Route</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Profiles of Prof. Heavysterne, Dr. Dunshunner and myself, executed in black court plaster by Mr.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>In conclusion I beg leave to return my thanks to the Professors, Assistants, and Artists of the Expedition, for the energy, fidelity and zeal, with which they have ever co-operated with me, and seconded my <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>I remain, with the highest respect and esteem for myself and everybody else,</P>
198.sgm:<P>JOHN PHOENIX, A.M.,</P>
198.sgm:<P>Chief Engineer and Astronomer, S.F.A.M.D.C.R.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The annexed sketch of our route, prepared by Messrs. Jinkins and Kraut, is respectfully submitted to the public.  It is not, of course, compiled with that accuracy, which will characterize our final maps, but for the ordinary purposes of travel, will be found sufficiently correct.</P>
198.sgm:<P>J.P.,A.M.C.E. &amp; C.A.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>A NEW SYSTEM OF ENGLISH GRAMMAR</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A NEW SYSTEM OF ENGLISH GRAMMAR</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>I HAVE often thought that the adjectives of the English language were not sufficiently definite for the purpose of description.  They have but three degrees of comparison--a very insufficient number, certainly, when we consider that they are to be applied to a thousand objects, which, though of the same general class or quality, differ from each other by a thousand different shades or degrees of the same peculiarity.  Thus, though there are three hundred and sixty-five days in a year, all of which must, from the nature of things, differ from each other in the matter of climate,--we have but half a dozen expressions to convey to one another our ideas of this inequality.  We say--"It is a fine day;" "It is a <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
198.sgm: fine day;" "It is the <HI REND="italics">finest</HI>
198.sgm: day we have seen;" or, "It is an unpleasant day;" "A <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
198.sgm: unpleasant day;" "The <HI REND="italics">most</HI>
198.sgm: unpleasant day we ever saw."  But it is plain, that none of these expressions give an <HI REND="italics">exact</HI>
198.sgm: idea of the nature of the day, and the two superlative expressions are generally untrue.  I once heard a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>32</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Again:--we say of a lady--"She is beautiful;" "She is <HI REND="italics">very</HI>
198.sgm: beautiful," or "She is <HI REND="italics">perfectly</HI>
198.sgm: beautiful;"--descriptions, which, to one who never saw her, are no descriptions at all, for among thousands of women he has seen, probably no two are equally beautiful; and as to a <HI REND="italics">perfectly</HI>
198.sgm:<P>If I meet Smith in the street, and ask him--as I am pretty sure to do--"How he does?" he infallibly replies--" <HI REND="italics">Tolerable</HI>
198.sgm:, thank you"--which gives me no <HI REND="italics">exact</HI>
198.sgm: idea of Smith's health--for he has made the same reply to me on a hundred different occasions--on every one of which there <HI REND="italics">must</HI>
198.sgm:<P>To a man of a mathematical turn of mind--to a student and lover of the exact sciences these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>33</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:inaccuracies of expression--this inability to understand <HI REND="italics">exactly</HI>
198.sgm: how things are must be a constant source of annoyance; and to one who, like myself, unites this turn of mind to an ardent love of truth, for its own sake--the reflection that the English language does not enable us to speak the truth with exactness, is peculiarly painful.  For this reason I have, with some trouble, made myself thoroughly acquainted with every ancient and modern language, in the hope that I might find some one of them that would enable me to express precisely my ideas; but the same insufficiency of adjectives exists in all except that of the Flathead Indians of Puget Sound, which consists of but forty-six words, mostly nouns; but to the constant use of which exists the objection, that nobody but that tribe can understand it.  An as their literary and scientific advancement is not such as to make a residence among them, for a man of my disposition, desirable, I have abandoned the use of their language, in the belief that for me it is <HI REND="italics">hyas. cultus</HI>
198.sgm:., or as the Spaniard hath it, <HI REND="italics">no me vale nada</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Despairing, therefore, of making new discoveries in foreign languages, I have set myself seriously to work to reform our own; and have, I think, made an important discovery, which, when developed into a system and universally adopted, will give a precision of expression, and a consequent clearness of idea, that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Before entering upon my system I will give you an account of its discovery (which, perhaps I might with more modesty term an adaptation and enlargement of the idea of another), which will surprise you by its simplicity, and like the method of standing eggs on end, of Columbus, the inventions of printing, gunpowder and the mariner's compass-prove another exemplification of the truth of Hannah More's beautifully expressed sentiment:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Large streams from little fountains flow,<LB>Large aches from little toe-corns grow."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>During the past week my attention was attracted by a large placard embellishing the corners of our streets, headed in mighty capitals, with the word "PHRENOLOGY," and illustrated by a map of a man's head, closely shaven, and laid off in lots, duly numbered from one to forty-seven.  Beneath this edifying illustration appeared a legend, informing the inhabitants of San Diego and vicinity that Prof. Dodge had arrived, and taken rooms (which was inaccurate, as he had but one room) at the Gyascutus House, where he would be happy to examine and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Always gratified with an opportunity of spending my money and making scientific researches, I immediately had my hair cut and carefully combed, and hastened to present myself and my head to the Professor's notice.  I found him a tall and thin Professor, in a suit of rusty, not to say seedy black, with a closely buttoned vest, and no perceptible shirt collar or wristbands.  His nose was red, his spectacles were blue, and he wore a brown wig, beneath which, as I subsequently ascertained, his bald head was laid off in lots, marked and numbered with Indian ink, after the manner of the diagram upon his advertisement.  Upon a small table lay many little books with yellow covers, several of the placards, pen and ink, a pair of iron callipers with brass knobs, and six dollars in silver.  Having explained the object of my visit, and increased the pile of silver by six half-dollars from my pocket--whereat he smiled, and I observed he wore false teeth--(scientific men always do; they love to encourage art) the Professor placed me in a chair, and rapidly manipulating my head, after the manner of a <HI REND="italics">sham pooh</HI>
198.sgm: (I am not certain as to the orthography of this expression), said that my temperament was "lymphatic, nervous, bilious."  I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0009" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE PROFESSOR.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"PHRENOLOGICAL CHART OF THE HEAD OF M. JOHN PHOENIX, by FLATBROKE B. DODGE, Professor of Phrenology, and inventor and proprietor of Dodge's celebrated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>38</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Temperament-- <HI REND="italics">Lymphatic, Nervous, Bilious</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Size of Head, 11.<HSEP>Imitation, 11.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Amativeness, 11 1/2.<HSEP>Self-Esteem, 1/2.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Caution, 3.<HSEP>Benevolence, 12.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Combativeness, 2 1/2.<HSEP>Mirth, 1.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Credulity, 1,<HSEP>Language, 12.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Causality, 12.<HSEP>Firmness, 2.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Conscientiousness, 12.<HSEP>Veneration, 12.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Destructiveness, 9.<HSEP>Philoprogenitiveness, 0.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Hope, 10."</P>
198.sgm:<P>Having gazed on this for a few moments in mute astonishment--during which the Professor took a glass of brandy and water, and afterward a mouthful of tobacco--I turned to him and requested an explanation.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Why," said he, "it's very simple; the number 12 is the maximum, 1 the minimum; for instance, you are as benevolent as a man can be--therefore I mark you, Benevolence, 12.  You have little or no self-esteem--hence I place you, Self-esteem, 1/2.  You've scarcely any credulity--don't you see?"</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">I did see</HI>
198.sgm:!  This was my discovery.  I saw at a flash how the English language was susceptible of improvement, and, fired with the glorious idea, I rushed from the room and the house; heedless of the Professor's request that I would buy more of his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>39</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>This system--shall I say this great system--is exceedingly simple, and easily explained in a few words.  In the first place, " <HI REND="italics">figures won't lie</HI>
198.sgm:."  Let us then represent by the number 100, the maximum, the <HI REND="italics">ne plus ultra</HI>
198.sgm: of every human quality--grace, beauty, courage, strength, wisdom, learning--everything.  Let <HI REND="italics">perfection</HI>
198.sgm:, I say, be represented by 100, and an absolute minimum of all qualities by the number 1.  Then by applying the numbers between, to the adjectives used in conversation, we shall be able to arrive at a very close approximation to the idea we wish to convey; in other words, we shall be enabled to speak the truth.  Glorious, soul-inspiring idea!  For instance, the most ordinary question asked of you is, "How do you do?"  To this, instead of replying, "Pretty well," "Very well," "Quite well," or the like absurdities--after running through your mind that <HI REND="italics">perfection</HI>
198.sgm: of health is 100, no health at all, 1--you say, with a graceful bow, "Thank you, I'm 52 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:today;" or, feeling poorly, "I'm 13, I'm obliged to you," or "I'm 68," or "75," or "87 1/2," as the case may be!  Do you see how very close in this way you may approximate to the truth; and how clearly your questioner will understand what he so anxiously wishes to arrive at--your <HI REND="italics">exact</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Let this system be adopted into our elements of grammar, our conversation, our literature, and we become at once an exact, precise, mathematical, truth-telling people.  It will apply to everything but politics; there, truth being of no account, the system is useless.  But in literature, how admirable!  Take an example:</P>
198.sgm:<P>As a 19 young and 76 beautiful lady was 52 gaily tripping down the sidewalk of our 84 frequented street, she accidentally came in contact--100 (this shows that she came in close contact)--with a 73 fat, but 87 good-humored looking gentleman, who was 93 (i.e. intently) gazing into the window of a toy-shop.  Gracefully 56 extricating herself, she received the excuses of the 96 embarrassed Falstaff with a 68 bland smile, and continued on her way.  But hardly--7--had she reached the corner of the block, ere she was overtaken by a 24 young man, 32 poorly dressed, but of an 85 expression of countenance; 91 hastily touching her 54 beautifully rounded arm, he said, to her 67 suprise--</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>"Madam, at the window of the toy-shop yonder, you dropped this bracelet, which I had the 71 good fortune to observe, and now have the 94 happiness to hand to you."  (Of course the expression "94 happiness" is merely the young man's polite hyperbole.)</P>
198.sgm:<P>Blushing with 76 modesty, the lovely (76, as before, of course) lady took the bracelet--which was a 24 magnificent diamond clasp--(24 <HI REND="italics">magnificent</HI>
198.sgm:, playfully sarcastic; it was probably <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"Do not thank me; the pleasure of gazing for an instant at those 100 eyes (perhaps too exaggerated a compliment) has already more than compensated me for any trouble that I might have had."</P>
198.sgm:<P>She thanked him, however, and with a 67 deep blush and a 48 pensive air, turned from him, and pursued with a 33 slow step her promenade.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Of course you see that this is but the commencement of a pretty little tale, which I might throw off, if I had a mind to, showing in two volumes, or forty-eight chapters of thrilling interest, how the young man sought the girl's acquaintance, how the interest first excited, deepened into love, how they suffered much from the opposition of parents (her parents of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>42</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>You would hardly believe it, but that everlasting (100) scamp of a Professor has brought a suit against me for stealing a bottle of his disgusting Invigorator; and as the suit comes off before a Justice of the Peace, whose only principle of law is to find guilty and fine any accused person whom he thinks has any money--(because if he don't he has to take his costs in County Scrip) it behooves me to "take time by the forelock."  So, for the present, adieu.  Should my system succeed to the extent of my hopes and expectations, I shall publish my new grammar early in the ensuing month, with suitable dedication and preface; and should you, with your well known liberality, publish my prospectus, and give me a handsome literary notice, I shall be pleased to furnish a presentation copy to each of the little Pioneer children.</P>
198.sgm:<P>P.S. I regret to add that having just read this article to Mrs. Phoenix, and asked her opinion thereon, she replied, that "if a first-rate magazine article were represented by 100, she should judge this <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>43</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:to be about 13; or if the quintessence of stupidity were 100, she should take this to be in the neighborhood of 96."  This, as a criticism, is perhaps a little discouraging, but as an exemplification of the merits of my system it is exceedingly flattering.  How could she, I should like to know, in ordinary language, have given so <HI REND="italics">exact</HI>
198.sgm:<P>As Dr. Samuel Johnson learnedly remarked to James Boswell, Laird of Auchinleck, on a certain occasion--</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Sir, the proof of the pudding is in the eating thereof."</P>
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198.sgm:<P>MUSICAL REVIEW EXTRAORDINARY</P>
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198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MUSICAL REVIEW EXTRAORDINARY</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>SAN DIEGO, JULY 10th, 1854.</P>
198.sgm:<P>As your valuable work is not supposed to be so entirely identified with San Franciscan interests as to be careless what takes place in other portions of this great <HI REND="italics">kentry</HI>
198.sgm:, and as it is received and read in San Diego with great interest (I have loaned my copy to over four different literary gentlemen, most of whom have read some of it), I have thought it not improbable that a few critical notices of the musical performances and the drama of this place might be acceptable to you, and interest your readers.  I have been, moreover, encouraged to this task by the perusal of your interesting musical and theatrical critiques on San Francisco performers and performances; as I feel convinced that if you devote so much space to them you will not allow any little feeling of rivalry between the two great cities to prevent your noticing ours, which, without the slightest feeling of prejudice, I must consider as infinitely superior.  I propose this month to call your attention to the two great events in our theatrical and musical world--the appearance of the talented Miss PELICAN, and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>48</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The critiques on the former are from the columns of the Vallecetos Sentinel, to which they were originally contributed by me, appearing on the respective dates of June 1st and June 31st.</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From the Vallecetos Sentinel, June 1st</HI>
198.sgm:<P>MISS PELICAN.--Never during our dramatic experience has a more exciting event occurred than the sudden bursting upon our theatrical firmament, full, blazing, unparalleled, of the bright, resplendent and particular star whose honored name shines refulgent at the head of this article.  Coming among us unheralded, almost unknown, without claptrap, in a wagon drawn by oxen across the plains, with no agent to get up a counterfeit enthusiasm in her favor, she appeared before us for the first time at the San Diego Lyceum last evening, in the trying and difficult character of Ingomar, or the Tame Savage.  We are at a loss to describe our sensations, our admiration, at her magnificent, her superhuman efforts.  We do not hesitate to say that she is by far the superior of any living actress; and, as we believe hers to be the perfection of acting, we cannot be wrong in the belief that no one hereafter will ever be found to approach her.  Her conception of the character of Ingomar was perfection itself; her playful and ingenuous manner, her light girlish laughter, in the scene with Sir Peter, showed an appreciation of the savage character which nothing but the most arduous study, the most elaborate training could produce; while her awful change to the stern, unyielding, uncompromising father in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>49</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">From the Vallecetos Sentinel, June 31st</HI>
198.sgm:<P>MISS PELICAN.--As this lady is about to leave us to commence an engagement on the San Francisco stage, we should regret exceedingly if anything we have said about her should send with her a <HI REND="italics">prestige</HI>
198.sgm: which might be found undeserved on trial.  The fact is, Miss Pelican is a very ordinary actress; indeed, one of the most indifferent ones we have ever happened to see.  She came here from the Museum at Fort Laramie, and we praised her so injudiciously that she became completely spoiled.  She has performed a round of characters during the last week, very miserably, though we are bound to confess that her performance of King Lear last evening was superior to anything of the kind we ever saw.  Miss Pelican is about forty-three years of age, singularly plain in her personal appearance, awkward and embarrassed, with a cracked and squeaking voice, and really dresses quite outrageously.  <HI REND="italics">She has much to learn--poor thing</HI>
198.sgm:<P>I take it the above notices are rather ingenious.  The fact is, I'm no judge of acting, and don't know how Miss Pelican will turn out.  If well, why there's my notice of June the 1st; if ill, then June 31st comes in play, and, as there is but one copy of the Sentinel printed, it's an easy matter to destroy the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>50</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:incorrect one; <HI REND="italics">both can't be wrong</HI>
198.sgm:<P>THE PLAINS.  ODE SYMPHONIE PAR JABEZ TARBOX.--This glorious composition was produced at the San Diego Odeon on the 31st of June, ult., for the first time in this or any other country, by a very full orchestra (the performance taking place immediately after supper), and a chorus composed of the entire "Sauer Kraut-Verein," the "Wee Gates Association," and choice selections from the "Gyascutus" and "Pike-harmonic" societies.  The solos were rendered by Herr Tuden Links, the recitations by Herr Von Hyden Schnapps, both performers being assisted by Messrs. John Smith and Joseph Brown, who held their coats, fanned them, and furnished water during the more overpowering passages.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"The Plains" we consider the greatest musical achievement that has been presented to an enraptured public.  Like Waterloo among battles; Napoleon among warriors; Niagara among falls, and Peck among senators, this magnificent composition stands among Oratorios, Operas, Musical Melodramas and performances of Ethiopian Serenaders, peerless and unrivaled.  <HI REND="italics">Il frappe toute chose parfaitment froid</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"It does not depend for its success" upon its plot, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>51</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The symphonie opens upon the wide and boundless plains in longitude 115&deg; W., latitude 35&deg; 21' 03" N., and about sixty miles from the west bank of Pitt River.  These data are beautifully and clearly expressed by a long (topographically) drawn note from an E flat clarionet.  The sandy nature of the soil, sparsely dotted with bunches of cactus and artemisia, the extended view, flat and unbroken to the horizon, save by the rising smoke in the extreme verge, denoting the vicinity of a Pi Utah village, are represented by the bass drum.  A few notes on the piccolo call attention to a solitary antelope <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>52</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Of thy intensity<LB>And great immensity<LB>Now then we sing;<LB>Beholding in gratitude<LB>Thee in this latitude,<LB>Curious thing."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Which swells out into "Hey Jim along, Jim along Josey," then <HI REND="italics">descrescendo, mas o menos, poco pocita</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>53</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Suddenly we hear approaching a train from Pike County, consisting of seven families, with forty-six wagons, each drawn by thirteen oxen; each family consists of a man in butternut-colored clothing driving the oxen; a wife in butternut-colored clothing riding in the wagon, holding a butternut baby, and seventeen butternut children running promiscuously about the establishment; all are barefooted, dusty, and smell unpleasantly.  (All these circumstances are expressed by pretty rapid fiddling for some minutes, winding up with a puff from the orpheclide played by an intoxicated Teuton with an atrocious breath--it is impossible to misunderstand the description.)  Now rises o'er the plains, in mellifluous accents, the grand Pike County Chorus:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh we'll soon be thar<LB>In the land of gold,<LB>Through the forest old,<LB>O'er the mounting cold,<LB>With spirits bold--<LB>Oh, we come, we come,<LB>And we'll soon be thar.<LB>Gee up Bolly! whoo, up, whoo haw!"</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The train now encamp.  The unpacking of the kettles and mess-pans, the unyoking of the oxen, the gathering about the various camp-fires, the frizzling of the pork, are so clearly expressed by the music that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>54</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:the most untutored savage could readily comprehend it.  Indeed, so vivid and lifelike was the representation, that a lady sitting near us involuntarily exclaimed aloud, at a certain passage, " <HI REND="italics">Thar, that pork's burning</HI>
198.sgm:<P>This is followed by the beautiful <HI REND="italics">aria</HI>
198.sgm::<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"O! marm, I want a pancake!"</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Followed by that touching <HI REND="italics">recitative</HI>
198.sgm::<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Shet up, or I will spank you!"</HI>
198.sgm:<P>To which succeeds a grand <HI REND="italics">crescendo</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The turning in for the night follows; and the deep and stertorous breathing of the encampment is well given by the basson, while the sufferings and trials of an unhappy father with an unpleasant infant are touchingly set forth by the <HI REND="italics">cornet a&grave; piston</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Part Second.--The night attack of the Pi Utahs; the fearful cries of the demoniac Indians; the shrieks of the females and children; the rapid and effective fire of the rifles; the stampede of the oxen; their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>70</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>55</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"A GRAND CRESCENDO MOVEMENT."</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>71</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>56</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:recovery and the final repulse, the Pi Utahs being routed after a loss of thirty-six killed and wounded, while the Pikes lose but one scalp (from an old fellow who wore a wing, and lost it in the scuffle), are faithfully given, and excite the most intense interest in the minds of the hearers; the emotions of fear, admiration, and delight: succeeding each other, in their minds, with almost painful rapidity.  Then follows the grand chorus:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh! we gin them fits,<LB>The Ingen Utahs.<LB>With our six-shooters--<LB>We gin'em pertickuler fits."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>After which we have the charming recitative of Herr Tuden Links, to the infant, which is really one of the most charming gems in the performance:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Now, dern your skin, <HI REND="italics">can't</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Morning succeeds.  The sun rises magnificently (octavo flute)--breakfast is eaten,--in a rapid movement on three sharps; the oxen are caught and yoked up--with a small drum and triangle; the watches, purses, and other valuables of the conquered Pi Utahs are stored away in a camp-kettle, to a small movement on the piccolo, and the train moves on, with the grand chorus:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"We'll soon be thar,<LB>Gee up Bolly!  Whoo hup! whoo haw!"</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>The whole concludes with the grand hymn and chorus:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"When we die we'll go to Benton,<LB>Whup!  Whoo, haw!<LB>The greatest man that e'er land saw<LB>Gee!<LB>Who this little airth was sent on<LB>Whup!  Whoo, haw!<LB>To tell a `hawk from a hand-saw!'<LB>Gee!"</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The immense expense attending the production of this magnificent work, the length of time required to prepare the chorus, and the incredible number of instruments destroyed at each rehearsal, have hitherto prevented M. Tarbox from placing it before the American public, and it has remained for San Diego to show herself superior to her sister cities of the Union, in musical taste and appreciation, and in high-souled liberality, by patronizing this immortal prodigy, and enabling its author to bring it forth in accordance with his wishes and its capabilities.  We trust every citizen of San Diego and Vallecetos will listen to it ere it is withdrawn; and if there yet lingers in San Francisco one spark of musical fervor, or a remnant of taste for pure harmony, we can only say that the Southerner sails from that place once a fortnight, and that the passage money is but forty-five dollars.</P>
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198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LECTURES ON ASTRONOMY</HEAD>
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198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTORY</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>THE following pages were originally prepared in the form of a course of Lectures to be delivered before the Lowell Institute, of Boston, Mass., but, owing to the unexpected circumstance of the author's receiving no invitation to lecture before that institution, they were laid aside shortly after their completion.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Receiving an invitation from the trustees of the Vallecetos Literary and Scientific Institute, during the present summer, to deliver a course of Lectures on any popular subject, the author withdrew his manuscript from the dusty shelf on which it had long lain neglected, and, having somewhat revised and enlarged it, to suit the capacity of the eminent scholars before whom it was to be displayed, repaired to Vallecetos.  But, on arriving at that place, he learned with deep regret, that the only inhabitant had left a few days previous, having availed himself of the opportunity presented by a passing emigrant's horse,--and that, in consequence, the opening of the Institute was indefinitely postponed.  Under these circumstances, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>62</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>JOHN PHOENIX.</P>
198.sgm:<P>SAN DIEGO OBSERVATORY, September 1, 1854.</P>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LECTURES ON ASTRONOMY--PART I</HEAD>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER I</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>THE term Astronomy is derived from two Latin words,-- <HI REND="italics">Astra</HI>
198.sgm:, a star, and <HI REND="italics">onomy</HI>
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198.sgm:<P>By the wondrous discoveries of the improved telescopes of modern times, we ascertain that upward of several hundred millions of stars exist, that are invisible to the naked eye--the nearest of which is millions of millions of miles from the Earth; and as we have every reason to suppose that every one of this inconceivable number of worlds is peopled like our own, a consideration of this fact--and that we are undoubtedly as superior to these beings as we are to the rest of mankind--is calculated to fill the mind of the American with a due sense of his own importance in the scale of animated creation.</P>
198.sgm:<P>It is supposed that each of the stars we see in the Heavens in a cloudless night is a sun shining upon its own curvilinear, with light of its own manufacture; and as it would be absurd to suppose its light and heat were made to be diffused for nothing, it is presumed farther, that each sun, like an old hen, is provided with a parcel of little chickens, in the way of planets, which, shining but feebly by its reflected light, are to us invisible.  To this opinion we are led, also, by reasoning from analogy, on considering our own Solar System.</P>
198.sgm:<P>THE SOLAR SYSTEM is so called, not because we believe it to be the sole system of the kind in existence, but from its principal body the Sun, the Latin name of which is <HI REND="italics">Sol</HI>
198.sgm:.  (Thus we read of Sol Smith, literally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>64</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:meaning the <HI REND="italics">son</HI>
198.sgm:<P>This reminds us of the simplicity of a child we once saw in a railroad-car, who fancied itself perfectly stationary, and thought the fences, houses and fields were tearing past it at the rate of thirty miles an hour;--and poking out its head, to see where on earth they went to, had its hat--a very nice one with pink <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>65</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:ribbons--knocked off and irrecoverably lost.  But Copernicus (who was a son of Daniel Pernicus, of the firm of Pernicus &amp; Co., wool-dealers, and who was named Co. Pernicus, out of respect to his father's partners) soon set this matter to rights, and started the idea of the present Solar System, which, greatly improved since his day, is occasionally called the Copernican system.  By this system we learn that the Sun is stationed at one <HI REND="italics">focus</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The demonstration of this system in all its perfection was left to Isaac Newton, an English Philosopher, who, seeing an apple tumble down from a tree, was led to think thereon with such gravity, that he finally discovered the attraction of gravitation, which proved to be the great law of Nature that keeps everything in its place.  Thus we see that as an apple originally brought sin and ignorance into the world, the same fruit proved thereafter the cause of vast knowledge and enlightenment;--and indeed we may doubt whether any other fruit but an apple, and a sour one at that, would have produced these great <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>66</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>As in this world you will hardly ever find a man so small but that he has someone else smaller than he, to look up to and revolve around him, so in the Solar System we find that the majority of the planets have one or more smaller planets revolving about them.  These small bodies are termed secondaries, moons or satellites--the planets themselves being called primaries.</P>
198.sgm:<P>We know at present of eighteen primaries, viz: Mercury, Venus, the Earth, Mars, Flora, Vesta, Iris, Metis, Hebe, Astrea, Juno, Ceres, Pallas, Hygeia, Jupiter, Saturn, Herschel, Neptune, and another, yet unnamed.  There are distributed among these, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>67</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>We shall now proceed to consider, separately, the different bodies composing the Solar System, and to make known what little information, comparatively speaking, science has collected regarding them.  And, first in order, as in place, we come to</P>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE SUN</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>This glorious orb may be seen almost any clear day, by looking intently in its direction, through a piece of smoked glass.  Through this medium it appears about the size of a large orange, and of much the same color.  It is, however, somewhat larger, being in fact 887,000 miles in diameter, and containing a volume of matter equal to fourteen hundred thousand globes of the size of the Earth, which is certainly a matter of no small importance.  Through the telescope it appears like an enormous globe of fire, with many spots upon its surface, which, unlike those of the leopard, are continually changing.  These spots were first discovered by a gentleman named Galileo, in the year 1611.  Though the Sun is usually termed and considered the luminary of day, it may not be uninteresting to our readers to know that it certainly has been seen in the night.  A scientific friend of ours from New England (Mr. R. W. Emerson) while <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>83</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>68</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:traveling through the northern part of Norway, with a cargo of tinware, on the 21st of June, 1836, distinctly saw the Sun in all its majesty, shining at midnight!--in fact, shining <HI REND="italics">all</HI>
198.sgm: night!  Emerson is not what you would call a superstitious man, by any means--but, he left!  Since that time many persons have observed its nocturnal appearance in that part of the country, at the same time of the year.  This phenomenon has never been witnessed in the latitude of San Diego, however, and it is very improbable that it ever will be.  Sacred history informs us that a distinguished military man, named Joshua, once caused the Sun to "stand still"; how he did it, is not mentioned.  There can, of course, be no doubt of the fact, that he arrested its progress, and possibly caused it to "stand <HI REND="italics">still</HI>
198.sgm: ";--but translators are not always perfectly accurate, and we are inclined to the opinion that it might have wiggled a very little, when Joshua was not looking directly at it.  The statement, however, does not appear so very incredible, when we reflect that seafaring men are in the habit of actually <HI REND="italics">bringing the Sun down</HI>
198.sgm:<P>By close and accurate observation with an excellent opera-glass, we have arrived at the conclusion <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>69</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Upon the whole, the Sun is a glorious creation; pleasing to gaze upon (through smoked glass), elevating to think upon, and exceedingly comfortable to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>70</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>WE shall now proceed to the consideration of the several planets.</P>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MERCURY</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>This planet, with the exception of the asteroids, is the smallest of the system.  It is the nearest to the Sun, and, in consequence, cannot be seen (on account of the Sun's superior light), except at its greatest eastern and western elongations, which occur in March and April, August and September, when it may be seen for a short time immediately after sunset and shortly before sunrise.  It then appears like a star of the first magnitude, having a white twinkling light, and resembling somewhat the star Regulus in the constellation Leo.  The day in Mercury is about ten minutes longer than ours, its year is about equal to three of our months.  It receives six and a half times as much heat from the Sun as we do; from which we conclude that the climate must be very similar to that of Fort Yuma, on the Colorado River.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>86</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>71</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>VENUS</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>This beautiful planet may be seen either a little after sunset or shortly before sunrise, according as it becomes the morning or the evening star, but never departing quite 48&deg; from the Sun.  Its day is about twenty-five minutes shorter than ours; its year seven and a half months or thirty-two weeks.  The diameter of Venus is 7,700 miles, and she receives from the Sun thrice as much light and heat as the Earth.</P>
198.sgm:<P>An old Dutchman named Schroeter spent more than ten years in observations on this planet, and finally discovered a mountain on it twenty-two miles in height, but he never could discover anything on the mountain, not even a mouse, and finally died about as wise as when he commenced his studies.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Venus, in Mythology, was a Goddess of singular beauty, who became the wife of Vulcan, the blacksmith, and, we regret to add, behaved in the most <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>87</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>72</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VENUS AND VULCAN.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>88</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>73</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:immoral manner after her marriage.  The celebrated case of Vulcan <HI REND="italics">vs</HI>
198.sgm:. Mars, and the consequent scandal, is probably still fresh in the minds of our readers.  By a large portion of society, however, she was considered an ill-used and persecuted lady, against whose high tone of morals and strictly virtuous conduct not a shadow of suspicion could be cast; Vulcan, by the same parties, was considered a horrid brute, and they all agreed that it served him right when he lost his case and had to pay the costs of court.  Venus still remains the Goddess of Beauty, and not a few of her <HI REND="italics">prote&acute;ge&acute;s</HI>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE EARTH</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>The Earth, or as the Latins called it, Tellus (from which originated the expression, "Do tell us"), is the third planet in the Solar System, and the one on which we subsist, with all our important joys and sorrows.  The San Diego Herald is published weekly on this planet, for five dollars per annum, payable invariably in advance.  As the Earth is by no means the most important planet in the system, there is no reason to suppose that it is particularly distinguished from the others by being inhabited.  It is reasonable, therefore, to conclude that all the other planets of the system are filled with living, moving, and sentient <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>74</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>But if this were a demonstrable fact, instead of a mere hypothesis, it would be found a very difficult matter to persuade us of its truth.  To the inhabitants of Venus the Earth appears like a brilliant star--very much, in fact, as Venus appears to us; and, reasoning from analogy, we are led to believe that the election of Mr. Pierce, the European war, or the split in the great Democratic party produced but very little excitement among them.</P>
198.sgm:<P>To the inhabitants of Jupiter, our important globe appears like a small star of the fourth or fifth magnitude.  We recollect some years ago gazing with astonishment upon the inhabitants of a drop of water, developed by the Solar Microscope, and secretly wondering whether they were or not reasoning beings, with souls to be saved.  It is not altogether a pleasant reflection that a highly scientific inhabitant of Jupiter, armed with a telescope of (to us) inconceivable form, may be pursuing a similar course of inquiry, and indulging in similar speculations regarding our Earth and its inhabitants.  Gazing with curious eye, his attention is suddenly attracted by the movements of a grand celebration of Fourth of July <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>90</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>75</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The Earth moves round the Sun from west to east in a year, and turns on its axis in a day; thus moving at the rate of 68,000 miles an hour in its orbit, and rolling around at the tolerably rapid rate of 1,040 miles per hour.  As our readers may have seen that when a man is galloping a horse violently over a smooth road, if the horse from viciousness or other cause suddenly stops, the man keeps on at the same rate over the animal's head; so we, supposing the Earth to be suddenly arrested on its axis, men, women, children, horses, cattle and sheep, donkeys, editors and members of Congress, with all our goods and chattels, would be thrown off into the air at a speed of 173 miles a minute, every mother's son of us describing the arc of a parabola, which is probably <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>91</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>76</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>This catastrophe, to one sufficiently collected to enjoy it, would, doubtless, be exceedingly amusing; but as there would probably be no time for laughing, we pray that it may not occur until after our demise; when, should it take place, our monument will probably accompany the movement.  It is a singular fact, that if a man travel round the Earth in an eastwardly direction, he will find, on returning to the place of departure, he has gained one whole day; the reverse of this proposition being true also, it follows that the Yankees who are constantly traveling to the West do not live as long by a day or two as they would if they had stayed at home; and supposing each Yankee's time to be worth $1.50 per day, it may be easily shown that a considerable amount of money is annually lost by their roving dispositions.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Science is yet but in its infancy; with its growth, new discoveries of an astounding nature will doubtless be made among which, probably, will be some method by which the course of the Earth may be altered and it be steered with the same ease and regularity through space and among the stars as a steamboat is now directed through the water.  It will be a very interesting spectacle to see the Earth "rounding to," with her head to the air, off Jupiter, while the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>92</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>77</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Well, Christopher Columbus would have been just as much astonished at a revelation of the steamboat and the locomotive engine as we should be to witness the above performance, which our intelligent posterity during the ensuing year A.D. 2000 will possibly look upon as a very ordinary and common-place affair.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Only three days ago we asked a medium where Sir John Franklin was at that time; to which he replied, he was cruising about (officers and crew all well) on the interior of the Earth, to which he had obtained entrance through SYMMES HOLE!</P>
198.sgm:<P>With a few remarks upon the Earth's Satellite, we conclude the first Lecture on Astronomy; the remainder of the course being contained in a second Lecture, treating of the planets, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn and Neptune, the Asteroids, and the fixed stars, which last, being "fixings," are, according to Mr. Charles Dickens, American property.</P>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE MOON</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>This resplendent luminary, like a youth on the Fourth of July, has its first quarter; like a ruined spendthrift its last quarter, and like an omnibus, is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>78</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The Moon revolves in an elliptical orbit about the Earth in twenty-nine days twelve hours forty-four minutes and three seconds, the time which elapses between one new Moon and another.  It was supposed by the ancient philosophers that the Moon was made of green cheese, an opinion still entertained by the credulous and ignorant.  Kepler and Tyco Brahe, however, held to the opinion that it was composed of Charlotte Russe, the dark portions of its surface being sponge cake, the light <HI REND="italics">blanc mange</HI>
198.sgm:.  Modern advances in science and the use of Lord Rosse's famous telescope have demonstrated the absurdity of all these speculations by proving conclusively that the Moon is mainly composed of the <HI REND="italics">Ferro--sesqui--cyanuret, of the cyanide of potassium</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Upon the whole, we may consider the Moon an excellent institution, among the many we enjoy under a free, republican form of government, and it is a blessed thing to reflect that the President of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>79</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:United States cannot <HI REND="italics">veto</HI>
198.sgm:<P>It has been ascertained beyond a doubt that the Moon has no air.  Consequently, the common expressions, "the Moon was gazing down with an air of benevolence," or with "an air of complacency," or with "an air of calm superiority," are incorrect and objectionable, the fact being that the Moon has no air at all.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The existence of the celebrated "Man in the Moon" has been frequently questioned by modern philosophers.  The whole subject is involved in doubt and obscurity.  The only authority we have for believing that such an individual exists, and has been seen and spoken with, is a fragment of an old poem composed by an ancient Astronomer of the name of Goose, which has been handed down to us as follows:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The man in the Moon cam down too soon<LB>To inquire the way to Norwich;<LB>The man in the South, he burned his mouth,<LB>Eating cold, hot porridge."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The evidence conveyed in this distich is, however, rejected by the sceptical, among modern Astronomers, who consider the passage an allegory.  "The man in the South," being supposed typical of the late John <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>95</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>80</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>END OF LECTURE FIRST</P>
198.sgm:<DIV><P>NOTE BY THE AUTHOR.--Itinerant Lecturers are cautioned against making use of the above production, without obtaining the necessary authority from the proprietors of the Pioneer Magazine.  To those who may obtain such authority, it may be well to state that at the close of the Lecture it was the intention of the author to exhibit and explain to the audience an orrery, accompanying and interspersing his remarks by a choice selection of popular airs on the hand-organ.</P>
198.sgm:<P>An economical orrery may be constructed by attaching eighteen wires of graduated lengths to the shaft of a candlestic, apples of different sizes being placed at their extremities to represent the Planets, and a central orange resting on the candlestick, representing the Sun.</P>
198.sgm:<P>An orrery of this description is, however, liable to the objection that if handed around among the audience for examination, it is seldom returned uninjured.  The author has known an instance in which a child four years of age, on an occasion of this kind, devoured in succession the planets Jupiter and Herschel, and bit a large spot out of the Sun before he could be arrested.</P>
198.sgm:<P>J. P.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>81</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PISTOL SHOOTING--A COUNTER CHALLENGE</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>SAN DIEGO, CAL., Sept. 1, 1854.</P>
198.sgm:<P>I COPY the following paragraph from the Spirit of the Times for July 15th:</P>
198.sgm:<P>"PISTOL SHOOTING--A CHALLENGE</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Owing to the frequent and urgent solicitations of many of my friends, I am induced to make the following propositions:</P>
198.sgm:<P>"1.  I will fit a dollar to the end of a twig two inches long, and while a second person will hold the other end in his mouth, so as to bring the coin within an inch and a half of his face, I engage to strike the dollar, three times out of five, at the distance of ten paces, or thirty feet.  I will add in explanation, that there are several persons willing and ready to hold the twig or stick described above, when required.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"2.  I will hit a dollar, tossed in the air, or any other object of the same size, three times out of five <HI REND="italics">on a wheel and fire</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"3.  At the word, I will split three balls out of five, on a knife blade, placed at the distance of thirty feet.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"4.  I will hit three birds out of five, sprung from the trap, standing thirty feet from the trap when shooting.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"5.  I will break, at the word, five common clay pipe stems out of seven, at the distance of thirty feet.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>82</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"6.  I engage to prove, by fair trial, that no pistol-shot can be produced who will shoot an apple off a man's head, at the distance of thirty feet, oftener than I can.  Moreover I will produce two persons willing and ready to hold the apple on their heads for me, when required to do so.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"7.  I will wager, lastly, that no person in the United States can be produced who will hit a quarter of a dollar at the distance of thirty feet, oftener than I can, <HI REND="italics">on a wheel and fire</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"I am willing to bet $5,000 on any of the above propositions, one fourth of that amount forfeit.  So soon as any bet will be closed, the money shall be deposited in the Bank of the State of Missouri, until paid over by the judges, or withdrawn, less forfeit.  I will give the best and most satisfactory references that my share will be forthcoming when any of my propositions are taken up.  Anyone desiring to take up any of my propositions must address me by letter, through the St. Louis Post Office, as the advertisements or notices of newspapers might not meet my eye.  Propositions will be received until the first of September next.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"EDMUND W. PAUL,</P>
198.sgm:<P>"140 Sixth Street, between Franklin Avenue and "Morgan Street, St. Louis, Missouri."</P>
198.sgm:<P>I am unable to see anything very extraordinary in the above propositions, by Mr. Edmund W. Paul.  Any person, acquainted with the merest rudiments of the pistol, could certainly execute any or all of the proposed feats without the slightest difficulty.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Owing" to my entertaining these opinions, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>83</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>1.  I will suspend <HI REND="italics">two</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>84</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>2.  I will hit a dollar, or anything else that has been tossed in the air (of the same size), on a wheel, <HI REND="italics">on a pole or axletree, or on the ground</HI>
198.sgm:<P>3.  At the word, I will place five balls on the blade of a penknife, and split them all!</P>
198.sgm:<P>4.  I will hit three men out of five, sprung from obscure parentage, and stand within ten feet of a steel-trap (properly set) while shooting!</P>
198.sgm:<P>5.  I will break at the word, a whole box of common clay pipes, with a single brick, at a distance of thirty feet.</P>
198.sgm:<P>6.  I engage to prove by a fair trial, that no pistol-shot (or other person) can be produced, who will throw more apples at a man's head than I can.  Moreover, I can produce in this town more than sixty persons willing and ready to hold an apple on their heads for me provided they are allowed to eat the apple subsequently.</P>
198.sgm:<P>7.  I will wager, lastly, that no person in the United States can be produced, who, with a double-barreled shot-gun, while throwing a back-handed summerset, can hit oftener, a dollar and a half, on the perimeter of a <HI REND="italics">revolving</HI>
198.sgm: wheel, <HI REND="italics">in rapid motion</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Anyone desiring to take up any of my propositions will address me through the columns of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>100</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>85</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>JOHN PHOENIX.</P>
198.sgm:<P>1384 Seventeenth Street, Vallecetos.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Se compra oro aqui</HI>
198.sgm:<P>P.S.--Satisfactory references given and required.  A bet from a steady, industrious person, who will be apt to pay if he loses, will meet with prompt attention.<HSEP>J. P.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>86</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ANTIDOTE FOR FLEAS</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>THE following recipe, from the writings of Miss Hannah More, may be found useful to your readers:</P>
198.sgm:<P>In a climate where the attacks of fleas are a constant source of annoyance, any method which will alleviate them becomes a <HI REND="italics">desideratum</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Boil a quart of tar until it becomes quite thin.  Remove the clothing, and before the tar becomes perfectly cool, with a broad flat brush, apply a thin, smooth coating to the entire surface of the body and limbs.  While the tar remains soft the flea becomes entangled in its tenacious folds, and is rendered perfectly harmless; but it will soon form a hard, smooth coating, entirely impervious to his bite.  Should the coating crack at the knee or elbow joints, it is merely necessary to retouch it slightly at those places.  The whole coat should be removed every three or four weeks.  This remedy is sure, and, having the advantage of simplicity and economy, should be generally known.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>87</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>So much for Miss More.  A still simpler method of preventing the attacks of these little pests is one which I have lately discovered myself; --in theory only--I have not yet put it into practice.  On feeling the bite of a flea, thrust the part bitten immediately into boiling water.  The heat of the water destroys the insect and instantly removes the pain of the bite.</P>
198.sgm:<P>You have probably heard of old Parry Dox.  I met him here a few days since, in a sadly seedy condition.  He told me that he was still extravagantly fond of whisky, though he was constantly "running it down."  I inquired after his wife.  "She is dead, poor creature," said he, "and is probably far better off than ever she was here.  She was a seamstress, and her greatest enjoyment of happiness in this world was only so, so."</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>88</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PHOENIX AT THE MISSION DOLORES</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>MISSION OF DOLORES, 15th January, 1855.</P>
198.sgm:<P>IT was my intention to furnish you, this month, with an elaborate article on a deeply interesting subject, but a serious domestic calamity has prevented.  I allude to the loss of my stove-pipe, in the terrific gale of the 31st December.</P>
198.sgm:<P>There are few residents of this city, whose business or inclination has called them to the Mission of Dolores, that have not seen and admired that stove-pipe.  Rising above the kitchen chimney to the noble altitude of nearly twelve feet, it pointed to a better world, and was pleasantly suggestive of hot cakes for breakfast.  From the window of my back porch, I have gazed for hours upon that noble structure; and watching its rotary cap, shifting with every breeze, and pouring forth clouds of gas and vapor, I have mused on politics, and fancied myself a Politician.  It was an accomplished stove-pipe.  The melody accompanying its movements, inaptly termed creaking by the soulless, gave evidence of its taste for Music, and its proficiency in Drawing was the wonder and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>89</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>I fondly hoped to enjoy its society for years, but one by one our dearest treasures are snatched from us: the soot fell, and the stove-pipe has followed soot.  On the night of the 31st of Dec., a gale arose, perfectly unexampled in its terrific violence.  Houses shook as with tertian ague, trees were uprooted, roofs blown off, and ships foundered at the docks.  A stove-pipe is not a pyramid--what resistance could mine oppose to such a storm?  <illus entity="a198-0016a" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
198.sgm:One by one its protecting wires were severed; and as it bowed its devoted head to the fury of the blast, shrieks of more than mortal agony attested the desperate nature of its situation.  At length the Storm Spirit fell upon the feeble and reeling structure in its wrath, and whirling it madly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>90</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Since my last, scarcely a gleam of fun has come to illumine the usual dull monotony of the Mission of Dolores,-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The days have been dark and dreary,<LB>It rains, and the wind is never weary."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>A little occurrence at the toll-gate, the other day, is worthy of notice, perhaps, as betokening "the good time a-coming."  A well-known gentleman of your city, who frequently drives forth on the Plank Road, perched on one of those little gigs that somebody compares to a tea-tray on wheels, with the reins hanging down behind, like unfastened suspenders, in an absent frame of mind, drove slowly past the Rubicon without bifurcating the customary half-dollar.  Out rushed the enthusiastic toll-gatherers, shouting, "Toll, sir, toll! you've forgot the toll!"  "Oh, don't bother me, gentlemen," replied the absent one, in a laychrymose <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>91</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:tone, and with a most woful expression, " <HI REND="italics">I'm an orphan boy</HI>
198.sgm:<P>It is amusing to observe the shifts a maker of Poetry will resort to, when compelled to make use of an irrelevant subject to eke out his rhyme to convince himself and his readers that the <HI REND="italics">faux pas</HI>
198.sgm: was quite intentional, the result of study, and should be admired rather than criticised.  In a poem called "Al Aaraaf," by Edgar A. Poe--who, when living, thought himself, in all seriousness, the <HI REND="italics">only</HI>
198.sgm: living original Poet, and that all other manufacturers of Poetry were mere copyists, continually infringing on his patent--occurs the following passage, in which may be found a singular instance of the kind alluded to:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Ligeia!  Ligeia!<LB>My beautiful one!<LB>Whose harshest idea<LB>Will to melody run:<LB>Oh is it thy will,<LB>On the breezes to toss;<LB>Or capriciously still,<LB>Like the lone Albatross,<LB>Incumbent on Night,<LB>(As she on the air),<LB>To keep watch with delight<LB>On the harmony there?"</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>92</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Observe that note: " <HI REND="italics">The Albatross is said to sleep on the wing</HI>
198.sgm:<P>I am inclined to believe that it never occurred to Mr. Poe, until having become embarrassed by that unfortunate word "toss," he was obliged to bring in either a <HI REND="italics">hoss</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The above lines, I am told, have been much admired; but if they are true poetry, so are the following:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Highflier!  Highflier!<LB>My long-legged one!<LB>Whose mildest idea<LB>Is to kick up and run:<LB>Oh, is it thy will<LB>Thy switch-tail to toss;<LB>Or caper viciously still,<LB>Like an old sorrel horse, [ <HI REND="italics">pron. `hoss</HI>
198.sgm:,']<LB>Incumbent on thee,<LB>As on him, to rear, [ <HI REND="italics">pron. `rare</HI>
198.sgm:,']<LB>And though sprung in the knee,<LB>With thy heels in the air?"</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>93</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>A note for me, and the man waiting for an answer, said ye?  Now, by the shade of Shadrach, and the chimney of Nebuchadnezzar's fiery furnace! 'tis the bill for the new chimney!  Bills, bills, bills!  How <HI REND="italics">can</HI>
198.sgm: a man name his child William?  The horrid idea of the partner of his joys, and sorrows, presenting him with a <HI REND="italics">Bill</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>SQUIBOB IN BENICIA</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SQUIBOB IN BENICIA</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>BENICIA, October 1st, 1850.</P>
198.sgm:<P>LEAVING the metropolis last evening by the gradually-increasing-in-popularity steamer, "West Point," I "skeeted" up Pablo Bay with the intention of spending a few days at the world-renowned seaport of Benicia.  Our Captain (a very pleasant and gentlemanly little fellow by the way) was named Swift, our passengers were emphatically a fast set, the wind blew like well-watered rose-bushes, and the tide was strong in our favor.  All these circumstances tended to impress me with the idea that we were to make a wonderfully quick passage, but alas, "the race is not always to the Swift," the "Senator" passed us ten miles from the wharf, and it was nine o'clock, and very dark at that, when we were roped in by the side of the "ancient and fishlike" smelling hulk that forms the broad wharf of Benicia.  As I shouldered my carpet-bag, and stepped upon the wharf among the dense crowd of four individuals that were there assembled, and gazing upon the mighty city whose glimmering lights, feebly discernible through the Benician darkness, extended over an area of five <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:acres, an overpowering sense of the grandeur and majesty of the great rival of San Francisco affected me.--I felt my own extreme insignificance, and was fain to lean upon a pile of watermelons for support.  "Boy!" said I, addressing an intelligent specimen of humanity who formed an integral portion of the above-mentioned crowd, "Boy! can you direct me to the best hotel in this city?"--"Ain't but one," responded the youth, "Winn keeps it; right up the hill thar."  Decidedly, thought I, I will go in to Winn, and reshouldering my carpet-bag, I blundered down the ladder, upon a plank foot-path leading over an extensive morass in the direction indicated, not noticing, in my abstraction, that I had inadvertently retained within my grasp the melon upon which my hand had rested.  " <HI REND="italics">Saw yer</HI>
198.sgm:!" resounded from the wharf as I retired--" <HI REND="italics">Saw yer</HI>
198.sgm:!" repeated several individuals upon the foot-path.  For an instant my heart beat with violence at the idea of being seen accidentally appropriating so contemptible an affair as a watermelon; but hearing a man with a small white hat and large white mustache shout "Hello!" and immediately rush with frantic violence up the ladder, I comprehended that Sawyer was his proper name, and by no means alluded to me or my proceedings; so slipping the melon in my carpet-bag, I tranquilly resumed my journey.  A short walk brough me to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0016b" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE OLDEST INHABITANT.</P>
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198.sgm:the portal of the best and only hotel in the city, a large two-story building dignified by the title of the "Solano Hotel," where I was graciously received by mine host, who welcomed me to Benicia in the most <HI REND="italics">winning</HI>
198.sgm: manner.  After slightly refreshing my inner man with a feeble stimulant, and undergoing an introduction to the oldest inhabitant, I calmly seated myself in the bar-room, and contemplated with intense interest the progress of a game of billiards between two enterprising citizens; but finding, after a lapse of two hours, that there was no earthly probability of its ever being concluded, I seized a candle-stick and retired to my room.  Here I discussed my melon with intense relish, and then seeking my couch, essayed to sleep.  But, oh! the fleas! skipping, hopping, crawling, biting!  "Won't someone establish an agency for the sale of D. L. Charles &amp; Co.'s Fleabane, in Benicia?"  I agonizingly shouted, and echo answered through the reverberating halls of the "Solano Hotel,"  "Yes, they won't!"  What a night!  But everything must have an end (circles and California gold excepted), and day at last broke over Benicia.  Magnificent place!  I gazed upon it from the attic window of the "Solano Hotel,"  with feelings too deep for utterance.  The sun was rising in its majesty, gilding the red wood shingles of the U.S. Storehouses in the distance; seven deserted hulks <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:were riding majestically at anchor in the bay; clothes-lines, with their burdens, were flapping in the morning breeze; a man with a wheelbarrow was coming down the street!--Everything, in short, spoke of the life, activity, business, and bustle of a great city.  But in the midst of the excitement of this scene, an odoriferous smell of beefsteak came, like a holy calm, across my olfactories, and hastily drawing in my <HI REND="italics">cabeza</HI>
198.sgm:, I descended to breakfast.  This operation concluded, I took a stroll in company with the oldest inhabitant, from whom I obtained much valuable information (which I hasten to present), and who cheerfully volunteered to accompany me as a guide to the lions of the city.  There are no less than forty-two wooden houses, many of them two stories in height, in this great place--and nearly twelve hundred inhabitants, men, women and children!  There are six grocery, provision, drygoods, auction, commission, and where-you-can-get-almost-any-little-thing-you-want stores, one hotel, one school-house--which is also a <HI REND="italics">brevet</HI>
198.sgm: church--three billiard-tables, a post-office--from which I actually saw a man get a letter--and a tenpin-alley, where I am told a man once rolled a whole game, paid $1.50 for it, and walked off chuckling.  Then there is a "monte bank"--a Common Council, and a Mayor, who, my guide informed me, was called " <HI REND="italics">Carne</HI>
198.sgm:," from a singular <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:habit he has of eating roast beef for dinner.--But there isn't a tree in all Benicia.  "There was one," said the guide, "last year--only four miles from here, but they chopped it down for firewood for the `post.'  Alas! why didn't the woodman spare that tree?"  The dwelling of one individual pleased me indescribably--he had painted it a vivid green!  Imaginative being.  He had evidently tried to fancy it a tree, and in the enjoyment of this sweet illusion, had reclined beneath its grateful shade, secured from the rays of the burning sun, and in the full enjoyment of rural felicity even among the crowded streets of this great metropolis.  How pretty is the map of Benicia!  We went to see that, too.  It's all laid off in squares and streets, for ever so far, and you can see the pegs stuck in the ground at every corner, only they are not exactly in a line, sometimes; and there is Aspinwall's wharf, where they are building a steamer of iron, that looks like a large pan, and Semple Slip, all divided on the map by lines and dots, into little lots of incredible value; but just now they are all under water, so no one can tell what they are actually worth.  Oh! decidedly Benicia is a great place.  "And how much, my dear sir,"  I modestly inquired of the gentlemanly recorder who displayed the map; "how much may this lot be worth?" and I pointed with my finger at lot No. 97, block 16,496--situated, as per <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:map, in the very center of the swamp.  "That, sir," replied he with much suavity, "ah! it would be held at about three thousand dollars, I suppose."--I shuddered--and retired.  The history of Benicia is singular.  The origin of its name as related by the oldest inhabitant is remarkable.  I put it right down in my note-book as he spoke, and believe it religiously, every word.  "Many years ago," said that aged man, "this property was owned by two gentlemen, one of whom, from the extreme candor and ingenuousness of his character, we will call Simple; the other being distinguished for waggery, and a disposition for practical joking, I shall call--as in fact he was familiarly termed in those days--Larkin.  While walking over these grounds in company, on one occasion, and being naturally struck by its natural advantages, said Simple to Larkin, `Why not make a city here, my boy? have it surveyed into squares, bring up ships, build houses, make it a port of entry, establish depots, sell lots, and knock the center out of Yerba Buena straight?'  (Yerba Buena is now San Francisco, reader.)  `Ah!' quoth Larkin with a pleasant grin diffusing itself over his agreeable countenance, `that would be nice, hey?'"  Need we say that the plan was adopted--carried out--proved successful--and Larkin's memorable remark " <HI REND="italics">be nice, hey</HI>
198.sgm:," being adopted as the name of the growing city, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:gradually became altered and vulgarized into its present form, Benicia!  A curious history, this, which would have delighted Horne Took beyond measure.  Having visited the Masonic Hall, which is really a large and beautiful building, reflecting credit alike on the Architect and the fraternity, being by far the best and most convenient hall in the country, I returned to the Solano Hotel, where I was accosted by a gentleman in a blue coat with many buttons, and a sanguinary streak down the leg of his trousers, whom I almost immediately recognized as my old friend, Captain George P. Jambs, of the U.S. Artillery, a thorough-going <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
198.sgm:, as the Spaniard has it, and a member in high and regular standing of the Dumfudgin Club.  He lives in a delightful little cottage, about a quarter of a mile from the center of the city, being on duty at the Post--which is some mile, mile and a half or two miles from that metropolis--and pressed me so earnestly to partake of his hospitality during my short sojourn, that I was at last fain to pack up my property, including the remains of the abstracted melon, and in spite of the blandishments of my kind host of the Solano, accompany him to his domicile, which he very appropriately names "Mischief Hall."  So here I am installed for a few days, at the expiration of which I shall make a rambling excursion to Sonoma, Napa and the like, and from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:whence perhaps you may hear from me.  As I sit here looking from my airy chamber upon the crowds of two or three persons thronging the streets of the great city; as I gaze upon that man carrying home a pound and a half of fresh beef for his dinner; as I listen to the bell of the Mary (a Napa steam packet of four cat power) ringing for departure, while her captain in a hoarse voice of authority requests the passengers to "step over the other side, as the larboard paddle-box is under water;" as I view all these unmistakable signs of the growth and prosperity of Benicia, I cannot but wonder at the infatuation of the people of your village, who will persist in their absurd belief that San Francisco will become a <HI REND="italics">place</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Yours for ever,</P>
198.sgm:<P>SQUIBOB.</P>
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198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SQUIBOB IN SONOMA</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>SONOMA, October 10, 1850.</P>
198.sgm:<P>I ARRIVED at this place some days since, but have been so entirely occupied during the interval, in racing over the adjacent hills in pursuit of unhappy partridges, wandering along the banks of the beautiful creek, whipping its tranquil surface for speckled trout, or cramming myself with grapes at the vineyard, that I have not, until this moment, found time to fulfil my promise of a continuation of my traveling adventures.  I left Benicia with satisfaction.  Ungrateful people!  I had expected, after the very handsome manner in which I had spoken of their city; the glowing description of its magnitude, prosperity and resources that I had given; the consequent rise in property that had taken place; the manifest effect that my letter would produce upon the action of Congress in making Benicia a port of entry; in view of all these circumstances I had, indeed, expected some trifling compliment--a public dinner, possibly, or preadventure a delicate present of a lot or two--the deeds inclosed in a neat and appropriate letter from the Town Council.  But no!--the name of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>For the last few days of my stay in Benicia, that city was in a perfect whirl of excitement.  The election was rapidly approaching, and Herr Rossiter was exhibiting feats of legerdemain at the California House.  Individuals were rushing about the streets proffering election tickets of all shapes and sizes, and tickets for the exhibition were on sale at all the principal hotels.  One man conjured you to take a ticket, while another asked you to take a ticket to see the man conjured, so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:that, what with the wire-pulling by day, and the slack wire performance by night, you stood an excellent chance for getting slightly bewildered.  Public meetings were held, where multitudes of fifty excited individuals surrounded the steps of the "El Dorado," listening with breathless interest to a speech in favor of McDaniels, and abusive to Bradford, or in favor of somebody else and everlastingly condemnatory of both.  Election meetings, anywhere, are always exciting and interesting spectacles, but the moral effect produced by the last which I attended in Benicia, when (after some little creature named Frisbie had made a speech, declaring his readiness to wrap himself in the Star-spangled Banner, fire off a pistol, and die like a son of--Liberty, for the Union) Dr. Simple slowly unfolded himself to his utmost height, and with one hand resting upon the chimney of the "El Dorado," and the other holding his <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
198.sgm: up to Heaven, denounced such sentiments, and declaring that California had made him, and he should go his length for California, right or wrong, union or disunion.  The moral effect, I say, produced was something more than exciting; it was sublime; it was tremendous!  "That's a right-down good speech," said my fair companion; "but my! how the General gave it to him! didn't he, Mr. Squibob?"  "He did so," said I.  The candidates were all Democrats, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:believe, and all but one entertained the same political sentiments.  This gentleman (a candidate for the Senate), however, in the elucidation of his political principles, declared that he "went in altogether for John C. Calhoun, and nothing shorter."  Now I'm no politician, and have no wish to engage in a controversy on the subject; but, God forgive me if I am in error, I thought Calhoun had been dead for some months.  Well, I suppose someone is elected by this time, and the waves of political excitement have become calm, but Benicia was a stormy place during the election, I assure you.  I succeeded in borrowing one dollar at ten per cent. a month (with security on a corner lot in Kearney Street, San Francisco), purchased a ticket, and went to see Herr Rossiter.  Gracious! how he balanced tobacco-pipes, and tossed knives in the air, and jumped on a wire, and sat down on it, and rolled over it, and made it swing to and fro while he threw little brass balls from one hand to the other.  The applause was tremendous, and when, after a solo by the orchestra (which consisted of one seedy violin, played by an individual in such a state of hopeless inebriation that his very fiddle seemed to hiccough), he threw a back-handed summerset, and falling in a graceful attitude, informed the audience that "he should appear again to-morrow evening with a change of performance," we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>Sonoma is twelve miles from Napa, and is--but I shall defer my description until next week, for I have scarcely made up my mind with regard to it, and my waning paper warns me I have said enough at present.  Yours for ever.</P>
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198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SQUIBOB IN SAN FRANCISCO</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>October 15th, 1850.</P>
198.sgm:<P>TIME!  At the word Squibob comes cheerfully up to the scratch, and gracefully smiling upon his friends and supporters, lets fly his one, two, as follows:</P>
198.sgm:<P>Sonoma <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
198.sgm: a nice place.  As my Sabbath-school instructor (peace to his memory) used to add, by way of a clincher to his dictum--Piety is the foundation of all Religion--"thar can't be no doubt on't."  Situated in the midst of the delightful and fertile valley which bears its name, within three miles of the beautiful creek upon whose "silvery tide, where whilom sported the <HI REND="italics">tule</HI>
198.sgm: boats of the unpleasant Indians," the magnificent (ly little) steamer Georgina now puffs and wheezes tri-weekly from San Francisco; enjoying an unvarying salubrious climate, neither too warm nor too cold.  With little wind, few fleas, and a sky of that peculiarly blue description that Fremont terms the Italian, it may well be called, as by the sentimentally struck traveling snob it frequently is, the Garden of California.  I remained there ten whole days--somewhat of a marvel for so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:determined a gadabout as myself--and don't remember of ever passing ten days more pleasantly.  It is useless for me to occupy time and trespass upon your patience by a lengthy description of Sonoma.  If any of your readers would know the exact number of houses it contains, the names of the people who dwell therein, the botanical applications of the plants growing in its vicinity, or anything else about it that would be of any mortal use to anyone, without being positively amusing, let them purchase Revere, or some other equally scientific work on California, and inform themselves; suffice it to say that there is delightful society, beautiful women, brave men, and most luscious grapes to be found there; and the best thing one can possibly do, if a tired and <HI REND="italics">ennuyed</HI>
198.sgm: resident of San Francisco, Benicia, or any other great city of all work and no play, is to take the Georgina some pleasant afternoon and go up there for a change.  He'll find it!  General Smith and his staff reside at Sonoma, and a small detachment of troops have their station and quarters there.  I saw a trooper in the street one day; he wore a coat with a singularly brief tail and a nose of a remarkably vivid tinge of redness.  I thought he might have just returned from <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
198.sgm: expedition, for his limbs were evidently weakened by toil and privation, and his course along the street slow in movement and serpentine in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>Tired at last of monotony, even in beautiful Sonoma, I packed up my carpet-bag, and taking the two-mule stage, passed through pretty little "Napa" again, and found myself, one evening, once more at Benicia.  It had increased somewhat since I had left it.  I observed several new clothes-poles had been erected, and noticed a hand-cart at the corner of a street that I had never seen before.  But I had little time for observation, for the New World came puffing up to the hulks as I arrived, and I hastily stepped on board.  Here I met my ancient crony and distinguished friend Le Baron Vieux, who was on his way from Sacramento to the metropolis.  The Baron is a good fellow and a funny man.  You have frequently laughed over his drolleries in the True Delta, and in his usually unimpeachably "good style" he showed me about the boat, introduced me to the captain, pointed out the "model artists" who <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:were on board, and finally capped the climax of his polite attention by requesting me to take a drink.  I didn't refuse, particularly--and we descended to the bar.  And "what," said the Baron with a pleasant and hospitable smile, "what, my dear fellow, will you drink?"  I chose <HI REND="italics">Bine</HI>
198.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Witters</HI>
198.sgm: --the Baron himself drinking <HI REND="italics">Bin</HI>
198.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Gitters</HI>
198.sgm:.  We hob-a-nobbed, tossed off our glasses without winking, and, for an instant, gazed at each other in gasping, unspeakable astonishment.  "Turpentine and aqua fortis!" shuddered I.  "Friend!" said the Baron, in an awful voice, to the barkeeper, "that drink is fifty cents; but I will with pleasure give you a dollar to tell us <HI REND="italics">what</HI>
198.sgm: it was we drank."  "We call it," replied that imperturbable man, "Sherry Wine, but I don't know as I ever saw anyone drink it before."  Quoth the Baron, who by this time had partially recovered his circulation and the consequent flow of his ideas: "I think, my friend, you'll never see it drank before or behind hereafter."  The New World is an excellent and, for California, an elegant boat.  Her captain (who don't know Wakeman?) is a pleasant gentleman.  Her accommodations are unequaled--but, and I say this expressly for the benefit of my brethren of the "Dumfudgin Club," never call for "wine and bitters" at her bar.  Ascending to the cabin on the upper deck, I had the satisfaction of a formal <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:presentation to Dr. Collyer and his interesting family.  Sober, high-toned, moral and well-conducted citizens may sneer if they please; rowdies may visit, and, with no other than the prurient ideas arising from their own obscene imagination, may indorse the same opinions more forcibly by loud ejaculations and vulgar remarks; but I pretend to say that no right-minded man, with anything like the commencement of a taste for the beautiful and artistic, can attend one of these "Model Artist" exhibitions without feeling astonished, gratified, and, if an enthusiast, delighted.  As our gallant boat, dashing the spray from her bow, bore us safely and rapidly onward through the lovely bay of San Pablo, the moon tipping with its silvery rays each curling wave around us, and shedding a flood of yellow light upon our upper deck, "I walked with Sappho."  And "Oh, beautiful being," said I, somewhat excited by the inspiring nature of the scene, and possibly, the least thought, by the turpentine I had imbibed, "do you never feel, when in the pride of your matchless charms you stand before us, the living, breathing representation of the lovely, poetic, and ill-fated Sappho; do you never feel an inspiration of the moment, and, entering into the character, imagine yourself in mind, as in form, her beauteous illustration?"  "Well--yes," said she, with the slightest possible <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"A STEAMER'S MOTION ALWAYS MADE ME FEEL UNPLEASANTLY."</P>
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198.sgm:indication of a yawn, "I don't know but I do, but it's <HI REND="italics">dreadful tearing on the legs</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Hem! a steamer's motion always made me feel unpleasantly, and the waves of San Pablo Bay ran high that evening.  The Baron and I took more turpentine immediately.  We landed in your metropolis shortly after, and succeeding in obtaining a man to carry my valise a couple of squares, for which service, being late, he charged me but thirty-two dollars, I repaired to and registered my name at the St. Francis Hotel, which, being deciphered with an almost imperceptible grin by my own and every other traveler's agreeable and gentlemanly friend, Campbell, I received the key of No. 12 and incontinently retired to rest.  What I have seen in San Francisco I reserve for another occasion.  I leave for San Diego this evening, from which place I will take an early opportunity of addressing you.  I regret that I can not remain to be a participant in the coming celebration, but my cousin Skewball, a resident of the city, who writes with a keen if not a "caustic pen," has promised to furnish you an elaborate account of the affair, which, if you print, I trust you will send me.  Write me by the post orifice.  <HI REND="italics">Au reservoir</HI>
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198.sgm:<P>PHOENIX INSTALLED EDITOR OF THE SAN DIEGO HERALD</P>
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198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PHOENIX INSTALLED EDITOR OF THE SAN DIEGO HERALD</HEAD>
198.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n11-11">*</ANCHOR>
198.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-11">[On the--of--33, the Editor of the San Diego Herald, a democratic organ, committed his paper to the hands of the writer of these Sketches to be published as usual, weekly, during the Editor's temporary absence in San Francisco.  On his return, shortly after the fall election, he found the Herald still in regular order of publication, but owing to his having neglected to charge his proxy with the particular keeping of his political principles,<HI REND="italics">or some other cause</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Facilis decensus Averni</HI>
198.sgm:," which may be liberally, not literally, translated, it is easy to go to San Francisco.  Ames has gone; departed in the Goliah.  During his absence, which I trust will not exceed two weeks, I am to remain in charge of the Herald, the literary part thereof--I would beg to be understood--the <HI REND="italics">responsible</HI>
198.sgm: portion of the editorial duties falling upon my friend Johnny, who has, in the kindest manner, undertaken "the fighting department," and to whom I hereby refer any pugnacious or bellicose individual who may take offense at the tone of any of my leaders.  The public at large, therefore, will understand that I stand upon "Josh Haven's <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>137</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>It will be perceived that I have not availed myself of the editorial privilege of using the plural pronoun in referring to myself.  This is simply because I consider it a ridiculous affectation.  I am a "lone, lorn man," unmarried (the Lord be praised for his infinite mercy!), and, though blessed with a consuming appetite, "which causes the keepers of the house where I board to tremble," I do not think I have a tapeworm, therefore I have no claim whatever to call myself "we," and I shall by no means fall into that editorial absurdity.</P>
198.sgm:<P>San Diego has been usually dull during the past week, and a summary of the news may be summarily disposed of.  There have been no births, no marriages, no arrivals, no departures, no earthquakes, nothing but the usual number of drinks taken, and an occasional "small chunk of a fight" (in which no lives have been lost), to vary the monotony of our existence.  Placidly sat our village worthies in the arm-chairs in front of the "Exchange," puffing their short clay pipes, and enjoying their " <HI REND="italics">otium cum</HI>
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198.sgm:<HI REND="italics">dignitate</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The only topic of interest now discussed among us is the approaching election, and on this subject I desire to say a few words:</P>
198.sgm:<P>To those old soldiers who were with us before the adoption of the Constitution, and, in consequence, are entitled to vote, I would say: Remember, my lads, that the duty of a good soldier in time of peace is to be an estimable citizen, and, as such, to assist in the election of good men to office.  The man who seeks your vote for any office by furnishing you with whisky, gratis, and credit at his little shop (if he happens to keep one), is by no means calculated to be either a good maker or dispenser of the laws.  Drink his whisky, by all means, if you like it, and he invites you, but make him no pledges, and on the day of election vote any other ticket than that he gives you.  You know well enough, oh! my soldiers, how much he cares for you, and can appreciate his professions of attachment.  They amount to precisely the same as those of Jacob, who bought the birthright of Esau for a mess of pottage.  Don't barter yours for a little whisky, and make for the county a worse mess than Esau could ever have concocted.</P>
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198.sgm:<P>Should any gentleman, differing with me in opinion, feel anxious "to give utterance to the thought," I can only say, my dear sir, the Herald is an Independent paper, and while I have charge of it its light shall shine for all; express yourself, therefore, fully, but concisely, in an ably written article; hand it to me, and I will, with pleasure, present it to the world through the columns of this wide-spread journal, merely reserving for myself the privilege of using you up, as I shall infallibly do, and to a fearful extent, if facts are facts, reason is reasonable, and "I know myself intimately," of which, at present, I have no manner of doubt.</P>
198.sgm:<P>And thus having said my say, in a plain, straight-forward manner, I shall close, for the present, with the assurance to the public that I remain their very obedient and particularly humble servant.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Mr. Kerran drove the Chaplain to the Mission from Old Town last Sunday, after the performance of the afternoon service-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"With four gray horses, and two on the lead,<LB>They made tracks for the other side of Jordan."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The rattling 2.40 pace at which they tore along was rather too much for the worthy preacher.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Kerran," gasped his anxious reverence, as he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:held firmly by the back seat, after a flying leap over a stone of unusually large dimensions, "do you know why you are like the Pharisees?"  "No, sir," said Kerran, touching up his off leader.  "Why," rejoined the good old man, "ye appear unto men <HI REND="italics">too</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Kerran gave a deep groan, and the horses struck a religious walk, which they adhered to until their arrival at the Mission.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"THE SQUIRE'S STORY."--"Oh!" says the Squire, "I wish't I was married and well of it, <HI REND="italics">I dread it powerful</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"About a week after her husband died, she started <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>126</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:down to the graveyard whar they'd planted of him, as she said, to read the prescription onto his monument.  When she got there, she stood a minute a looking at the stones which was put at each end of the grave, with an epithet on 'em that the minister had writ for her.  Then she bust out, `Oh, boo hoo,' says she, `Jones--he was one of the best of men; I remember how the last time he come home, about a week ago, he brought down from town some sugar, and a little tea, and some store goods for me, and lots of little necessaries, and a little painted hoss for Jeems, which that blessed child got his mouth all yaller with sucking of it, and then he kissed the children all round, and took down that good old fiddle of his'n and played up that good old tune,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"`Rake her down, Sal, oh rang dang diddle,<LB>Oh rang, dang diddle dang, dang dang da.'</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"Here," says the Squire, "she begin to dance, and I just thought she was the greatest woman ever I see."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"The Squire" always gives a short laugh after telling this anecdote, and then, filling and lighting his pipe, subsides into an arm-chair in front of the "Exchange," and indulges in calm and dreamy reflection.</P>
198.sgm:<P>WANTED.--Back numbers of the Democratic Review, speeches and writings of Jefferson, Coffroth, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>127</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>J. PHOENIX.</P>
198.sgm:<P>THE COMEDY OF ERRORS.--We have been accused, with great injustice, of a "reckless propensity to lampoon."  We disclaim, with indignation, any such propensity.  On the contrary, such has been our anxiety to avoid personalities, or unpleasant allusions, that we have actually suppressed some of the very funniest things we have ever heard--little drolleries over which we have laughed, ourselves, in the sanctity of the sanctum, until the "arm-chair" has cracked again, and wondering men in the billiard-room below have poked up against the ceiling with their cues (that they might take their cue from us), simply because the mention of some name, Jones, Brown, or Muggins, has rendered us unable to present them to the public.  The conductor of a public journal is responsible for everything that he presents, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>128</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>It is for this reason that we forbear publishing the following capital thing, dramatized expressly for our paper, and which we are solemnly assured occurred very nearly, if not exactly, as represented.</P>
198.sgm:<P>SCENE.-- <HI REND="italics">The interior of the City Post Office at San Francisco, Gov. B--discovered, sitting, holding a copy of the San Francisco Herald at arm's-length, in a pair of tongs, and reading it with every mark of scorn and deep disgust.  Enter Judge A. from the South, Editor of the San Diego Herald</HI>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Judge</HI>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Governor</HI>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Judge</HI>
198.sgm: A.  Oh, admirably; you may depend on the unanimous support of that county, sir; the Herald has an immense, a commanding influence there; it will be felt, sir.  I have left the paper in the charge of an able literary friend there, sir, Mr. Phoenix, probably you may have heard of him, a man <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>129</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Governor</HI>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Judge</HI>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Governor</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Here the mail is opened, the Judge eagerly receives a bundle of the first Phoenix Herald, hastily tears off the envelope, hands one copy to the Governor, and takes another himself.  Each put on spectacles and glance at the first column, where appears in fatal capitals the respectable name of William Waldo.  <HI REND="italics">Grand Tableau</HI>
198.sgm:<P>[<HI REND="italics">Here the Ghost of old Squibob himself (ought to have been) seen rising, and hovering for an instant over the pair in an attitude of benediction, murmuring, "Bless ye, my children," larfs and disappears in a "sweet scented" cloud.</HI>
198.sgm:<P>We forbear to give the conversation that ensued--this is a Christian community in which we live, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>130</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>We have received by the Goliah an affecting letter from Judge Ames, beseeching us to return to the fold of Democracy, from which he is inclined to intimate we have been straying.  Is it possible that we have been laboring under a delusion--and that Waldo is a Whig!  Why! lor!  How singular!  But anxious to atone for our past errors, willing to please the taste of the Editor, and, above all, ever solicitous to be on the strong side, we gladly abjure our former opinions, embrace Democracy with ardor, slap her on the back, declare ourselves in favor of erecting a statue of Andrew Jackson in the Plaza, and, to prove our sincerity, run up to-day at the head of our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>131</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>LATE.--Passing by one of our doggeries about 3 A.M., the other morning, from which proceeded "a sound of revelry by night," a hapless stranger on his homeward way paused to obtain a slight refreshment, and to the host he said, "It appears to me your visitors are rather late to-night."  "Oh, no," replied the worthy landlord, "the boys of San Diego generally run for forty-eight hours, stranger; <HI REND="italics">it's a little late for night before last</HI>
198.sgm:<P>WANTED--By the subscriber, a serious young man, with fixed principles of integrity and sobriety, to make beds, sweep a room, black boots, and bring <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>132</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The best of references given and required.</P>
198.sgm:<P>J. PHOENIX.</P>
198.sgm:<P>N. B. No female in disguise need apply.</P>
198.sgm:<P>AN APT QUOTATION.--His Reverence, coming into the Colorado House last Sunday afternoon,was invited by the urbane proprietor to <HI REND="italics">irrigate</HI>
198.sgm:.  Being in an arid state, he consented to take a glass of lemonade, but accidentally took a brandy cocktail which had been mixed for Mr. Mariatowskie, and drank it off without noticing his mistake.  "Why, Doctor," said Frank, when he observed the disappearance of his sustenance, "that was my horn you drank."  "Ah, my young friend," quoth the good old man, with a benevolent smile and a smack of his lips, while the moisture stood on the inside of his venerable spectacles--"Ah, my young friend, <HI REND="italics">the horn of the ungodly shall be put down</HI>
198.sgm:<P>FOR SALE.--A valuable Law Library, lately the property of a distinguished legal gentleman of San Francisco, who has given up practise and removed to the Farralone Islands.  It consists of one volume of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>133</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Our friend Charley Poole was complaining bitterly the other morning of the muddy quality of the water brought him for his daily ablutions, when he was consoled by a remark of "Phoenix" that he was probably a descendant of old Pool of Bethesda, mentioned in the Scriptures, and that the angel that used to "come down and trouble" his ancestor's water still continued his attentions to the family.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"THERE'S MANY A SLIP 'TWEEN THE CUP AND THE LIP."  Proverbs liii, 14.--It was my intention to have devoted about two columns of this journal, this week, to an exposition of the nefarious scheme of the "Water Front Extension," at San Francisco, and the abuse of the gubernatorial power that has been exercised in the matter of the "State Printing" during the past year.</P>
198.sgm:<P>But I have been deterred from doing all this by two good and sufficient reasons.  In the first place, I can find but one man in the county who ever intended to vote for Bigler, and I have labored with him to prove the errors of opinion into which he has fallen, to that extent that, partly from the effects of the Fiesta at San Luis Rey (where, as a matter of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>134</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:course, he became excessively inebriated), and partly from agitation of mind produced by my arguments, he has fallen into a violent fit of sickness, from which his physician thinks he can not possibly recover before the day of election.  And, secondly, I have a horrible misgiving that the editor <HI REND="italics">de facto</HI>
198.sgm: will return before this edition has gone to press, in which case, coming down on me from San Francisco, "like a young giant refreshed with new wine," and finding (what he would consider) such abominable heresy in his columns, he would doubtless knock the whole matter into <HI REND="italics">pi</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The great event of the past week has been the FIESTA at San Luis Rey.--Many of our citizens attended, and a very large number of native Californians and Indians collected from the various ranchos in the vicinity.  High mass was celebrated in the old church on Thursday morning, an Indian baby was baptized, another nearly killed by being run over by an excited individual on an excited horse, and that day and the following were passed in witnessing the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:absurd efforts of some twenty natives to annoy a number of tame bulls with the tips of their horns cut off.  This great national amusement, ironically termed bull-fighting, consists in waving a <HI REND="italics">serape</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The "Phoenix Ticket" <HI REND="italics">generally</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Like unto the great Napoleon after the battle of Waterloo, or the magnanimous Boggs after his defeat in the gubernatorial campaign of Missouri, I shall fold my arms with tranquillity, and say either " <HI REND="italics">C'est fini</HI>
198.sgm:," or " <HI REND="italics">Oh, shaw, I know'd it</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Though this is but my second bow to a San Diego audience, I presume it to be my last appearance and valedictory, for the editor will doubtless arrive <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>136</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0021" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>C'EST FINI.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>137</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:before another week elapses--the gun will be removed from my trembling grasp, and the Herald will resume its great aims and heavy firing, and I hope will discharge its debt to the public with accuracy and precision.  Meanwhile, "The Lord be with you." <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"BE VIRTUOUS AND YOU WILL BE HAPPY."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>We have received for publication an article signed "LEONIDAS," from the pen of an old and esteemed friend of ours, intended to counteract the effect of our leader last week, which we should publish were it not for its length and the rather strong style in which it is written.  Many of the principal points of "Leonidas's" opposition are removed in this issue of the paper, and we doubt if it would serve any useful purpose to publish extracts from his letter, or if he would be pleased with our doing so.</P>
198.sgm:<P>He winds up by exhorting the Democrats "to keep together" (we hope they will; it would give us unfeigned regret to see <HI REND="italics">any</HI>
198.sgm: man explode or fall to pieces), and by calling us, indirectly, " <HI REND="italics">a rabid Whig</HI>
198.sgm:<P>In this, "Leonidas," you are mistaken.  Our ideas on political matters are precisely those of the lamented Joseph Bowers, who when running for the office of--in the State of--was asked by the--committee, "Mr. Bowers, what are your politics?"  To which he replied, "Gentle <HI REND="italics">men</HI>
198.sgm:, I have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:no politics."--"What," exclaimed the committee in surprise, "no politics?"  "No, gentle <HI REND="italics">men</HI>
198.sgm:<P>He was elected unanimously, as many of our readers from -- will doubtless remember, and we hope, should it ever come to pass that we are a candidate for public office, we may meet with the like good fortune.</P>
198.sgm:<P>So farewell, oh, Leonidas, we trust you are not yet "boiling with indignation"; but if unhappily that is the case, we can only placidly remark--" <HI REND="italics">Boil on</HI>
198.sgm:<P>As an incident of the election we are told that late in the afternoon an elderly gentleman, much overcome by excitement and spirituous potations, was found, like Peter, "weeping bitterly," as he reclined on the cold, cold ground behind the Court House.  "I'm an old man, gentle- <HI REND="italics">men</HI>
198.sgm:," sobbed he, "and a poor old man, and a d--d <HI REND="italics">ugly</HI>
198.sgm: old man, and I've gone and voted for Bigler!"  "Well, you <HI REND="italics">have</HI>
198.sgm:<P>A GAME OF POKER.--An Eastern paper mentions the case of an individual in Terre Haute, Ind., <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:who attacked his wife with a poker, and was arrested by a gentleman attracted by the lady's screams.  Ah, the gentleman <HI REND="italics">passed</HI>
198.sgm:, the lady saw him, and <HI REND="italics">called</HI>
198.sgm:<P>We carelessly threw a bucket of water from our office door the other day, the most of which fell upon an astonished Spaniard sitting upon his horse before the Colorado House.  He made the brief remark " <HI REND="italics">Carajo</HI>
198.sgm:<P>A SYLLOGISM.--David was a Jew--hence, "the Harp of David" was a Jewsharp.  Question--How the deuce did he sing his Psalms and play on it the same time?</P>
198.sgm:<P>We recommend this difficult question to "Dismal Jeems" for solution, the answer to be left at Barry and Patten's, directed to "Phoenix."</P>
198.sgm:<P>RETURN OF THE EDITOR</P>
198.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Te Deum Laudamus</HI>
198.sgm:."--Judge Ames has returned.  With the completion of this article my labors are ended; and wiping my pen on my coat-tail, and placing it behind my sinister ear, with a graceful bow and bland smile for my honored admirers, and a wink of intense meaning for my enemies, I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>140</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>By the way, this "Arm-Chair" is but a pleasant fiction of "the Judge's"--the only seat in the Herald office being the empty nail-keg which I have occupied while writing my leaders upon the inverted sugar-box that answers the purpose of a table.  But such is life.  Divested of its poetry and romance, the objects of our highest admiration become mere commonplaces, like the Herald's chair and table.  Many ideas which we have learned to love and reverence, from the poetry of imagination, as tables, become old sugar-boxes on close inspection and more intimate <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>141</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>During the period in which I have had control over the Herald, I have endeavored to the best of my ability to amuse and interest its readers, and I can not but hope that my good-humored efforts have proved successful.  If I have given offense to any by the tone of my remarks, I assure them that it has been quite unintentional, and to prove that I bear no malice I hereby accept their apologies.  Certainly no one can complain of a lack of versatility in the last six numbers.  Commencing as an Independent Journal, I have gradually passed through all the stages of incipient Whiggery, decided Conservatism, dignified Recantation, budding Democracy, and rampant Radicalism, and I now close the series with an entirely literary number, in which I have carefully abstained from the mention of Baldo and Wigler, I mean, Wagler and Bildo, no--never mind--as Toodles says, I haven't mentioned <HI REND="italics">any of 'em</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The paper this week will be found particularly stupid.  This is the result of deep design on my part; had I attempted anything remarkably brilliant, you would all have detected it, and said, probably with truth: Ah, this is Phoenix's last appearance; he has tried to be very funny, and has made a miserable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:failure of it.  Hee! hee! hee!  Oh, no, my Public, an ancient weasel may not be detected in the act of slumber in that manner.  I was well aware of all this, and have been as dull and prosy as possible to avoid it.  Very little news will be found in the Herald this week: the fact is, there never is much news in it, and it is very well that it is so; the climate here is so delightful, that residents, in the enjoyment of their <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
198.sgm:<P>In conclusion, I am gratified to be able to state that Johnny's office (the fighting department) for the last six weeks has been a sinecure, and with the exception of the atrocious conduct of one miscreant, who was detected very early one morning in the act of chalking A S S on our office door, and who was dismissed with a harmless kick, and a gentle admonition that he should not write his name on other persons' property, our course has been peaceful, and undisturbed by any expression of an unpleasant nature.</P>
198.sgm:<P>So, farewell Public, I hope you will do well; I do, upon my soul.  This leader is ended, and if there be any man among you who thinks he could write a better one, let him try it, and if he succeeds, I shall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Respectfully Yours.</P>
198.sgm:<P>INTERVIEW BETWEEN THE EDITOR AND PHOENIX</P>
198.sgm:<P>The Thomas Hunt had arrived, she lay at the wharf at New Town, and a rumor had reached our ears that "the Judge" was on board.  Public anxiety had been excited to the highest pitch to witness the result of the meeting between us.  It had been stated publicly that "the Judge" would whip us the moment he arrived; but though we thought a conflict probable, we had never been very sanguine as to its terminating in this manner.  Coolly we gazed from the window of the office upon the New Town road; we descried a cloud of dust in the distance; high above it waved a whip-lash, and we said, "the Judge" cometh, and "his driving is like that of Jehu the son of Nimshi, for he driveth furiously."</P>
198.sgm:<P>Calmly we seated ourselves in the "arm-chair," and continued our labors upon our magnificent Pictorial.  Anon, a step, a heavy step, was heard upon the stairs, and "the Judge" stood before us.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"In shape and gesture proudly eminent, stood like a tower: ... but his face deep scars of thunder had entrenched, and care sat on his faded <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>We rose, and with an unfaltering voice said: "Well, Judge, how do you do?"  He made no reply, but commenced taking off his coat.</P>
198.sgm:<P>We removed ours, also our cravat.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The sixth and last round is described by the pressman and compositors as having been fearfully scientific.  We held "the Judge" down over the Press by our nose (which we had inserted between his teeth for that purpose), and while our hair was employed in holding one of his hands, we held the other in our left, and with the "sheep's foot" brandished above our head, shouted to him, "say Waldo."  Never! he gasped-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh! my Bigler he would have muttered,<LB>But that he `dried up,' ere the word was uttered."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>At this moment we discovered that we had been laboring under a "misunderstanding," and through the amicable intervention of the pressman, who thrust a roller between our faces (which gave the whole affair a very different complexion), the <HI REND="italics">matter</HI>
198.sgm: was finally settled on the most friendly terms--"and without prejudice to the honor of either party."  We write this while sitting without any <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0023" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WE HELD "THE JUDGE" DOWN OVER THE PRESS BY OUR NOSE.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>146</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:clothing, except our left stocking, and the rim of our hat encircling our neck like a "ruff" of the Elizabethan era--that article of dress having been knocked over our head at an early stage of the proceedings, and the crown subsequently torn off, while the Judge is sopping his eye with cold water in the next room, a small boy standing beside the sufferer with a basin, and glancing with interest over the advertisements on the second page of the San Diego Herald, a fair copy of which was struck off upon the back of his shirt at the time we held him over the Press.  Thus ends our description of this long anticipated personal collision, of which the public can believe precisely as much as they please--if they disbelieve the whole of it, we shall not be at all offended, but can simply quote as much to the point, what might have been the commencement of our epitaph, had we fallen in the conflict,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"HERE LIES PHOENIX."</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>ILLUSTRATED NEWSPAPERS</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>163</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>ILLUSTRATED NEWSPAPERS</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>A YEAR or two since a weekly paper was started in London, called the Illustrated News.  It was filled with tolerably executed woodcuts, representing scenes of popular interest, and though perhaps better calculated for the nursery than the reading-room, it took very well in England, where few can read, but all can understand pictures, and soon attained an immense circulation.  As when the inimitable London Punch attained its world-wide celebrity, supported by such writers as Thackeray, Jerrold, and Hood, would-be funny men on this side of the Atlantic attempted absurd imitations--the "Yankee Doodle," the "John Donkey," etc.--which as a matter of course proved miserable failures, so did the success of this Illustrated affair inspire our money-loving publishers with hopes of dollars; and soon appeared from Boston, New York, and other places Pictorial and Illustrated Newspapers, teeming with execrable and silly effusions, and filled with the most fearful wood-engravings, "got up regardless of expense" or anything else; the contemplation of which was enough to make an artist tear his hair <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:and rend his garments.  A Yankee named Gleason, of Boston, published the first, we believe, calling it Gleason's Pictorial (it should have been Gleason's Pickpocket) and Drawing Room Companion.  In this he presented to his unhappy subscribers views of his house in the country, and his garden, and, for aught we know, of "his ox and his ass, and the stranger within his gates."  A detestable invention for transferring daguerreotypes to plates for engraving, having come into notice about this time, was eagerly seized upon by Gleason, for farther embellishing his catchpenny publication; duplicates and uncalled-for pictures were easily obtained, and many a man has gazed in horror-stricken astonishment on the likeness of a respected friend, as a "Portrait of Monroe Edwards," or that of his deceased grandmother, in the character of "One of the Signers of the Declaration of Independence."  They love pictures in Yankeedom; every tin pedler has one on his wagon, and an itinerant lecturer can always obtain an audience by sticking up a likeness of some unhappy female, with her ribs laid open in an impossible manner, for public inspection, or a hairless gentleman, with the surface of his head laid out in eligible lots, duly marked and numbered.  The factory girls of Lowell, the Professors of Harvard all bought the new Pictorial.  (Professor Webster was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Inspired by his success, old Feejee-Mermaid-Tom-Thumb-Woolly-horse-Joyce-Heth-Barnum forth-with got out another Illustrated Weekly, with pictures far more extensive, letter-press still sillier, and engravings more miserable, if possible, than Yankee Gleason's.  And then we were bored and buffeted by having incredible likenesses of Santa Anna, Queen Victoria, and poor old Webster thrust beneath our nose, to that degree that we wished the respected originals had never existed, or that the art of wood-engraving had perished with that of painting on glass.</P>
198.sgm:<P>It was, therefore, with the most intense delight that we saw a notice the other day of the failure and stoppage of Barnum's Illustrated News; we rejoiced thereat greatly, and we hope that it will never be revived, and that Gleason will also fail as soon as he conveniently can, and that his trashy Pictorial will perish with it.</P>
198.sgm:<P>It must not be supposed from the tenor of these remarks that we are opposed to the publication of a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>We furnish our readers this week with the first number, merely premising that the immense expense attending its issue will require a corresponding liberality of patronage on the part of the Public to cause it to be continued.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>PHOENIX'S PICTORIAL,</P>
198.sgm:<P>And Second Story Front Room Companion.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Vol. I.]<HSEP>San Diego, October 1, 1853.<HSEP>[ No. I</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0025" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>PORTRAIT OF HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Prince Albert, the son of a gentleman named Coburg, is the husband of Queen Victoria, of England, and the father of many of her children.  He is the inventor of the celebrated "Albert hat," which has been lately introduced with great effect in the U.S. Army.  The Prince is of German extraction, his father being a Dutchman and his mother a Duchess.</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0026" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MANSION OF JOHN PHOENIX, ESQ., SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA.</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0027" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>HOUSE IN WHICH SHAKESPEARE WAS BORN, IN STRATFORD-ON-AVON.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0028" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>ABBOTSFORD, THE RESIDENCE OF SIR WALTER SCOTT, AUTHOR OF BYRON'S PILGRIM'S PROGRESS, ETC.</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0029" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CAPITOL AT WASHINGTON.</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0030" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>RESIDENCE OF GOVERNOR BIGLER, AT BENICIA, CALIFORNIA.</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0031" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BATTLE OF LAKE ERIE.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The Battle of Lake Erie, of which our Artist presents a spirited engraving, copied from the original painting, by Hannibal Carracci, in the possession of J. P. Haven, Esq., was fought in 1836, on Chesapeake Bay, between the U.S. Frigates <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:Constitution and Guerriere and the British Troops under General Putnam.  Our glorious flag, there as everywhere, was victorious, and "Long may it wave, o'er the land of the free, and the home of <HI REND="italics">the slave</HI>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0032" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>FEARFUL ACCIDENT ON THE CAMDEN &amp; AMBOY RAILROAD!!  TERRIBLE LOSS OF LIFE!!!</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0033" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW OF THE CITY OF SAN DIEGO, BY SIR BENJAMIN WEST.</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0034" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>INTERVIEW BETWEEN MRS. HARRIET BEECHER STOWE AND THE DUCHESS OF SUTHERLAND, FROM A GROUP OF STATUARY, BY CLARKE MILLS.</P>
198.sgm:</ILLUS><illus entity="a198-0035" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>BANK ACCOUNT OF J. PHOENIX, ESQ., AT ADAMS &amp; CO., BANKERS, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0036" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GAS WORKS, SAN DIEGO HERALD OFFICE.</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0037" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>STEAMER GOLIAH.</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0038" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>VIEW OF A CALIFORNIA RANCH.--LANDSEER.</P>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0039" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SHELL OF AN OYSTER ONCE EATEN BY GENERAL WASHINGTON, SHOWING THE GENERAL'S MANNER OF OPENING OYSTERS.</P>
198.sgm:<P>There!--this is but a specimen of what we can do if liberally sustained.  We wait with anxiety to hear the verdict of the Public, before proceeding to any farther and greater outlays.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Subscription, $5 per annum, payable invariably in advance.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>157</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>INDUCEMENTS FOR CLUBBING</P>
198.sgm:<P>Twenty Copies furnished for one year for fifty cents.  Address John Phoenix, Office of the San Diego Herald.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>173</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>158</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>SANDYAGO--A SOLIQUY</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>OH my what a trying thing it is for a feller<LB>To git kooped up in this ere little plais<LB>Where the males dont run reglar no how<LB>Nor the females nuther, cos there aint none.<LB>But by the mails I mean the post orifices<LB>By which we git our letters and sufforth<LB>From the Atlantic States and the British Provinces.<LB>But here there aint no kind of a chance<LB>Except by the Sutherner or the leky Fremont<LB>Which runs very seldom, and onst in the latter<LB>I come to this plais, and wisht I was furder.<LB>The natives is all sorts complected;<LB>Some white, some black, &amp; some kinder speckled,<LB>And about fourteen rowdy vagabonds<LB>That gits drunk and goes round lickin everybody.<LB>And four stores to every white human<LB>Which are kept by the children of Zion<LB>Where they sell their goods bort at auction<LB>At seven times more than they costed,<LB>With a grand jury thats sittin forever<LB>But dont never seem to indite nothin,<LB>And if they do what comes on it<LB>The petty ones finds em not guilty<LB>And then they go off much in licker<LB>And hit the fust feller they come to.<LB>All night long in this sweet little village<LB>You hear the soft note of the pistol</HI>
198.sgm: <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>With the pleasant screak of the victim<LB>Whose been shot prehaps in his gizzard.<LB>And all day hosses is running<LB>With drunken greasers astraddle<LB>A hollerin and hoopin like demons<LB>And playin at billiards and monte<LB>Till they've nary red cent to ante<LB>Having busted up all the money<LB>Which they borryed at awful percentage<LB>On ranches which they haint no title<LB>To, and the U.S. board of commission<LB>Will be derned if they ever approve it<LB>While the squire he goes round a walkin<LB>And sasses all respectable persons<LB>With his talk of pills he's invented<LB>To give a spirit of resentment.<LB>And the persons fite duels on paper.<LB>Oh its awful this here little plais is<LB>And quick as my business is finished<LB><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>160</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:I shall leave here you may depend on it<LB>By the very first leky steambote,<LB>Or if they are all of em busted<LB>I'll hire a mule from some feller<LB>And just put out to Santy Clara.</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"THE JUDGE" looks melancholy!--He knows that this is Phoenix's Last, and that's exactly "where the shoe pinches."  This squib is adapted to the comprehension of the meanest shoemaker.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>161</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION IN SAN DIEGO</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>(<HI REND="italics">Reported expressly for the San Diego Herald</HI>
198.sgm:<P>TUESDAY last, the 4th of July, being the anniversary of the discovery of San Diego by the Hon. J. J. Warner, in 1846, as well as that of our National Independence ("long may it wave," etc.), was celebrated in this city with all that spirit and patriotism for which it has ever been distinguished.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Every citizen, with the exception of those who had retired in a state of intoxication, was aroused at 2 A.M. by the soul-stirring and tremendous report of the Plaza Artillery, which had been carefully loaded the previous evening with two pounds of powder and half a bushel of public documents franked to this place by our late honorable representatives.  Each citizen on being awakened in this manner (if he imitated the example of your respected reporter), reflected a moment with admiration on our glorious institutions; with pride on our great and increasing country, and with gratitude on the efforts of those patriotic spirits who had thus aroused him, and after <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>162</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>At 8 A.M. a procession was formed, and moved to the sound of an excellent military band, consisting of a gong and a hand-bell, across the Plaza, where it separated into two divisions, one proceeding to the Union House, the other to the Colorado Hotel.  At each of these excellent establishments an elegant <HI REND="italics">dejeuner</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>163</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>BREAKFAST BILL OF FARE</P>
198.sgm:<P>Coffee.<HSEP>Cafe, con sucre.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Bread.<HSEP>Pan.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Butter.<HSEP>Mantequilla.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Fried beefsteak.<HSEP>Carne.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Hash.<HSEP>No se.</P>
198.sgm:<P>At 9 A.M. precisely, the San Diego Light Infantry, in full uniform, consisting of Brown's little boy in his shirt-tail, fired a National salute with a large bunch of fire-crackers.  This part of the celebration went off admirably; with the exception of the young gentleman having set fire to his shirt-tail, which was fortunately extinguished immediately, without accident.</P>
198.sgm:<P>At 12 M. an oration was delivered by a gentleman in the Spanish language in front of the Exchange, of which your reporter regrets to say he has been unable to remember but the concluding sentence, which, however, he is informed contains many fine ideas.  It was nearly as follows:</P>
198.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">Hoy es el dia de Santa Refugia!  Hic, Los Americanos son abajos, no vale nada!  (Hic,) nada, nada, nada, (hic-cup.)  Mira! hombre, dar me poco de aguadiente Caramba</HI>
198.sgm:<P>This oration was remarkably well received, and shortly after, the band commencing its performance, the procession was again formed, and dividing as before moved off to dinner.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>179</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>164</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The afternoon passed pleasantly away, in witnessing the performances of a gentleman who had been instituting a series of experiments to test the relative strength of various descriptions of spirituous liquor, and who, becoming excited and enthusiastic thereby, walked round the Plaza and howled dismally.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Upon the whole, everything passed off in the most creditable manner, and we can safely say that never in our recollection have we witnessed <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>MELANCHOLY ACCIDENT.--DEATH OF A YOUNG MAN</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>MR. MUDGE has just arrived in San Diego from Arkansas; he brings with him four yoke of oxen, seventeen American cows, nine American children, and Mrs. Mudge.  They have encamped in the rear of our office, pending the arrival of the next coasting steamer.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Mr. Mudge is about thirty-seven years of age, his hair is light, not a "sable silvered," but a <HI REND="italics">yaller</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Mr. Mudge called on us yesterday.  We were eating watermelon.  Perhaps the reader may have eaten watermelon, if so, he knows how difficult a thing it is to speak when the mouth is filled with the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>166</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Take some melon, Mr. Mudge? said we, as with a sudden bolt we recovered our speech and took another slice ourself.  "No, I thank you," replied Mr. Mudge, "I wouldn't choose any, now."</P>
198.sgm:<P>There was a solemnity in Mr. Mudge's manner that arrested our attention; we paused, and holding a large slice of watermelon dripping in the air, listened to what he might have to say.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Thar was a very serious accident happened to us," said Mr. Mudge, "as we wos crossin the plains.  'Twas on the bank of the Peacus River.  Thar was a young man named Jeames Hambrick along, and another young feller, he got to fooling with his pistil, and he shot Jeames.  He was a good young man and hadn't a enemy in the company; we buried him thar on the Peacus River we did, and as we went off these here lines sorter passed through my mind."  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>167</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0041" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>WATERMELON EATING IS AN ART.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>183</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>168</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>DIRGE ON THE DEATH OF JEAMES HAMBRICK</P>
198.sgm:<P>BY MR. ORION W. MUDGE, ESQ.</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">it was on June the tenth<LB>our hearts were very sad<LB>for it was by an awfull accident<LB>we lost a fine young lad</HI>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Jeames Hambrick was his name<LB>and alas it was his lot<LB>to you I tell the same<LB>he was accidently shot</HI>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">on the peacus river side<LB>the sun was very hot<LB>and its there he fell and died<LB>where he was accidently shot</HI>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">on the road his character good<LB>without a stain or blot<LB>and in our opinion growed<LB>until he was accidently shot</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>169</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">a few words only he spoke<LB>for moments he had not<LB>and only then he seemed to choke<LB>I was accidently shot</HI>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">we wraped him in a blanket good<LB>for coffin we had not<LB>and then we buried him where he stood<LB>when he was accidently shot</HI>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">and as we stood around his grave<LB>our tears the ground did blot<LB>we prayed to god his soul to save<LB>he was accidently shot</HI>
198.sgm:<P>This is all, but I writ at the time a epitaff which I think is short and would do to go over his grave:</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">EPITAFF<LB>here lies the body of Jeames Hambrick<LB>who was accidently shot<LB>on the bank of the peacus river<LB>by a young man</HI>
198.sgm:<P>he was accidently shot with one of the large size colt's revolver with no stopper for the cock to rest on it was one of the old fashion kind brass mounted and of such is the kingdom of heaven.</P>
198.sgm:<P>truly yourn</P>
198.sgm:<P>ORION W MUDGE ESQ</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>170</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SECOND EDITION!</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>SUCH has been the demand for the back numbers of the "Phoenix" Herald, that our editions have been entirely exhausted, and we have at last concluded to have the whole of them stereotyped.  We have now seven hundred and eighty-two Indians employed night and day in mixing adobe for the type molds, and as no suitable metal is to be found in San Diego to cast the stereotypes, we have engaged 324,000 ball cartridges, from the Mission, for the sake of the lead.  A very serious accident came near occurring in our office this morning owing to the ignition of a cartridge, caused by friction, resulting from the rapid manner in which it was unrolled, but fortunately we escaped, with slight loss, one of our compositors having had his leg fractured just above the knee-joint.  The injured member was promptly and neatly taken off by "Phoenix," with a broad-axe in 2.46, and the sufferer is now doing well and engaged in setting type with his teeth.  Our steam roller presses having failed to arrive (owing to the non-arrival of the Goliah, as a matter of course), we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>171</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"The Press is a tremendous engine."  We have two tremendous Indians working at ours.  Four men remove the papers as fast as printed, and forming a line to the outer door four boys distribute them from the gallery to the excited crowd below.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Nothing is heard but the monotonous <HI REND="italics">houp! hank</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>172</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THIRD EDITION!!</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>AND LATEST NEWS!!</P>
198.sgm:<P>Fatal Accident!</P>
198.sgm:<P><illus entity="a198-0042" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
198.sgm:A MELANCHOLY accident has just taken place.  A fleshy gentleman had received a copy of the Pictorial, and retired to the foot of the Flagstaff to persue it.  He had glanced over the first column, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>173</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>174</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FOURTH EDITION!!!</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>THE VERY LATEST!!!</P>
198.sgm:<P>MRS. MUGGINS has just been picking up the fragments of the deceased in a hand-basket.  We omitted to state that the tooth had been filled by Dr. R. E. Cole, Dentist, whose advertisement may be found in another column!  In her frantic agony the bereaved widow has accused us of purloining the gold.  A terrible scene has ensued in our office in consequence--after much recrimination between us, we have been atrociously "clapper-clawed" by Mrs. Muggins!</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>175</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>A LITTLE MORE FOR THE VERY LAST!!</P>
198.sgm:<P>AFTER great exertion the fragments have been put together by Dr. H--, and the Muggins family have retired to their home, each bearing a copy of the Pictorial in triumph before them.  Old Muggins has presented us with the tooth, and it may be seen at our office.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>191</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>176</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE SAN FRANCISCO ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETY, AND CALIFORNIA ACADEMY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES.</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>PURSUANT to notice, a large and respectable number of those of our citizens interested in the advancement of the arts and sciences in California, assembled in the large hall over the Union Hotel, at 8 o'clock on Thursday evening, the 31st of June ult.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The meeting having come to order, was organized by our distinguished fellow-citizen, Dr. Keensarvey, being called to the chair, and the appointment of A. Cove, Esq., as Secretary.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The Chairman then rose, and in that lucid style which ever characterizes his public Addresses, briefly explained the object of the meeting: It had been urged, he said, and he feared with too much justice, by our scientific friends in the Eastern States, that the inhabitants of California, residing in a country which opens to the Geologist, the Ethnologist, the Mineralogist, the Botanist, the Taxidermist, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>192</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>177</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Was it possible that this could be the case?  Had we not among us men of science, of liberality, of intelligence?  (Cries of "Yes, yes!" from the meeting, and "Si, Sen&tilde;or," from a Castilian Savant in a glazed hat and judicious state of spiritual elevation.)  Had we not in our midst many who, having acquired a sufficiency of worldly wealth, now wished to find among the treasures of science that calm satisfaction which the possession of no amount of "dinero" can possibly afford?  (Tumultuous shouts of "Yes, yes!  Seguro!  Si, Sen&tilde;or," and a voice, "Whar is he?")--Yes, gentlemen, it was the pride and pleasure of the Chairman to believe that such was the case; and it was in the hope of being able to hurl back the aspersions of the Savants of the east that this meeting was called together; it was with the hope of forming <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>178</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The applause consequent upon this beautiful effort of the Chairman having subsided, Mr. B. S. Bags rose to address the Chair:</P>
198.sgm:<P>He had not the advantage of an early education--not much he hadn't; but he read a good deal, and liked it; and he dare say now, that if the truth had been found out, he knowed a great deal more than some of those filosifers at the east.  He wanted to see science go on in California.  He had a considerable interest in the place, and expected to spend his days thar.  He was now fifty-three years old; he come out here twenty-three years ago as Steward of a Whale ship, and he run away and turned Doctor.  (Laughter; cries of "Hush, hush!")  But he married a Californy widder, with a large ranch; and he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>194</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>179</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>195</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>180</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:and could tell how hot it was any time; he had examined the "Ah teasing" well in the square, and knew something about Hydrocianics from a contemplation of scientific structures.  By reading the papers daily, particularly the Alta California, he found all sorts of new matters which he supposed give him considerable idea of "New Mattix;" but above all, having seen in the papers from the States an account of the "Bosilist pendulum" and its application to the Bunker Hill Monument, by which it showed how the earth turned round from east to west, he had ever since for three hours each day watched the Flagstaff on the Plaza, and he could assure the meeting that when the flag was trailed it always flew out to the West, and when it was histed the rope always bent out to the East--("Hear!  Hear!")--Gentlemen might say it was the wind that did it, but what made the wind?  If any gentleman here had ever rid out to the Mission on a calm day ("Hear!" from a Savant who kept a Livery Stable in Kearney Street), he must have felt a breeze blowing in his face.  Well!  <HI REND="italics">he</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Mr. Bags concluded that he had took up a good <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>181</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Barney Braglagan was now loudly called for, but not appearing, the meeting was addressed by several of our most scientific citizens, the tendency of whose remarks was entirely and unreservedly in favor of the formation of a permanent society; and the meeting being would up to the highest state of scientific excitement, it was unanimously-- <HI REND="italics">Resolved</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Immediately after the passage of the above resolution, a committee, consisting of Dr. Keensarvey, A. Cove, and James Calomel, M.D., were appointed to prepare a constitution for the society.  Leaving the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>197</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>182</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>ARTICLE I.  The officers of this Society shall consist of a President, Corresponding Secretary, Recording Secretary, Treasurer, and Librarian, who shall be elected annually, by ballot.</P>
198.sgm:<P>ARTICLE II.  The objects of this Society shall comprise inquiries into everything in the remotest degree scientific or artful.</P>
198.sgm:<P>ARTICLE III.  The Society shall consist of members, corresponding members, and honorary members.  The first to be persons residing in California; the two last to include both persons and residents of any other place on the face of the globe, or elsewhere.</P>
198.sgm:<P>ARTICLE IV.  There shall be an annual payment of one hundred dollars, in City, County, or State scrip, by each member residing in the City of San Francisco or its vicinity.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The Society now proceeded to the election of officers for the ensuing year, with the following result: President, Dr. Keensarvey; Vice-President, M. Quelque Chose; Corresponding Secretary, G. Squibob; Recording Secretary, A. Cove; Treasurer, Buck S. Bags; Librarian, the Consul for Ireland, <HI REND="italics">ex-off</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>183</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>On motion, the Treasurer received permission from the Society to apply to the City Council for liberty to stack the scrip forming the funds of the association upon the Plaza under cover of a Tarpaulin.</P>
198.sgm:<P>On motion, committees were appointed to report at the first meeting of the Society on the following subjects, namely; 1st, Antiquity; 2d, Geology; 3d, Toxicology; 4th, Ethnology; all as applicable to California.</P>
198.sgm:<P>On motion, the proceedings of this meeting and the future transactions of the Society shall be published in the San Francisco Daily Alta Californian, Silliman's Journal, the Boston Olive Branch, and the extra documents accompanying the President's annual message.</P>
198.sgm:<P>On motion, the Society adjourned, to hold its first regular meeting on Thursday evening, July 15th, in the remains of the old Adobe building anciently standing on the northwest corner of the Plaza.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Immediately on adjournment the several committees entered with zeal upon their various duties:</P>
198.sgm:<P>The Committee on Antiquities left at once, in the night boat, for Vallejo, the residence of their Chairman, who had informed them of the existence at that place of some specimens of a substance termed "Old Monongahela," lately discovered by a scientific gentleman residing at the Capitol;--the Committee on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>184</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:Geology were seen eagerly inquiring for the omnibus for Yerba Buena Island; that on Ethnology appointed a sub-committee for the City of San Francisco, and made arrangements for the departure of its main body to the upper counties of the State, for the purpose of holding interviews with the primitive inhabitants, while the Castilian savant in the glazed hat, who had been appointed Chairman of the Committee on Toxicology, repaired incontinently to a drinking saloon, where he commenced a series of experiments in hydrostatics, with the endeavor to ascertain the quantity of fluid possible to be raised from a glass in a given time, by a straw applied to his mouth, which resulted so much to his satisfaction that he was seen to emerge therefrom at four o'clock on the following morning in a high state of pleasurable excitement, chanting huskily as he meandered down the street that highly refreshing Mexican anthem-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Castro viene--en poce tiempo<LB>Cuidado los Americanos."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>A. COVE,</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Sec'y pro tem</HI>
198.sgm:<P>G. SQUIBOB,</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Cor. Sec. S.F.A.S. and C.A.A.S.</HI>
198.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, July 10, 1351.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>185</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE LADIES' RELIEF SOCIETY</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>EXTRAORDINARY PROCEEDINGS!!--SCANDALOUS TREATMENT OF "OUR REPORTER!"</P>
198.sgm:<P>EDITOR OF THE--</P>
198.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, July 12.</P>
198.sgm:<P>LEARNING that a meeting of the "Ladies' Relief Society" was to be held this morning at Pine Church, on Baptist Street, your Reporter, actuated by a desire to discharge his duty to the public by collecting valuable information, and incited by a laudable curiosity to ascertain what on earth the ladies desired to be relieved from (on which last point he obtained the most complete satisfaction, as will appear), repaired to that sacred edifice, and ensconcing himself in a pew conveniently situated, in case of a sudden retreat becoming expedient, near the door, patiently awaited the commencement of the proceedings.</P>
198.sgm:<P>At half-past nine A.M. precisely, as I ascertained by reference to the magnificent silver watch, valued at $18, which I did <HI REND="italics">not</HI>
198.sgm: draw in Tobin and Duncan's grand raffle, yesterday, but which, "on the contrary, quite the reverse," was bestowed on me by my deceased Grandmother (excuse the digression; I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>201</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>186</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The Pine Church looked like a conservatory, and as I lay <HI REND="italics">perdue</HI>
198.sgm:<P>As the town clock struck ten the doors were closed, and a lady of mature age and benign though <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>202</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>187</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0044" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CHAIRMAN.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>203</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>188</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:unyielding expression (I do you justice, Madam, though you haven't used me well), ascended the steps of the pulpit, and taking from the desk a fireman's speaking trumpet that laid thereon, she smote an awful blow upon a copy of the sacred scriptures, and vociferated through the brazen instrument " <HI REND="italics">Order</HI>
198.sgm:!"  Conversation ceased, laughter was hushed, and, with the exception of an irrepressible murmur and a subdued snicker from your reporter, as some charming being exclaimed, <HI REND="italics">sotto voce</HI>
198.sgm:, "don't pinch me," silence reigned profound.  "Ladies," said the President, "you are aware of the object of this meeting.  Tied down by the absurd prejudices of society; trammeled by the shackles of custom and unworthy superstition; we have found it necessary to form ourselves into a society, where, free from the intrusion of execrable man; aloof from his jealous scrutiny, whether as father, brother, or that still more objectionable character of husband, we may throw off restraint, exert our natural liberty, and <HI REND="italics">seek relief</HI>
198.sgm:<P>At this instant, while my wondering gaze was attracted by an elderly female in a Tuscan bonnet and green veil, who, drawing a black pint bottle from the pocket of her dress, proceeded to take a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>189</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:"snifter" therefrom, with vast apparent satisfaction, and then tendered it to the lady that sat next (a sweet little thing in a Dunstable, with cherry-colored ribbons), a lady rose and said--"Mrs. President: I move that a committee of one be appointed to send a servant to Batty and Parrens for fifty-two <HI REND="italics">brandy smashes</HI>
198.sgm:."  A thrill of horror ran through my veins; I rose mechanically to my feet; exclaimed "gracious goodness!" and fell, in a fainting condition, against the back of the pew.  <HI REND="italics">It was my Susan</HI>
198.sgm:!!  You remember the instant that intervenes between the flash of the lightning and the ensuing thunder-clap:--for an instant there was silence, dead silence--you might have heard a paper of pins fall--then, "at once there rose so wild a yell," "a man! a man!" they cried, and a scene of hubbub and confusion ensued that beggars description.  The venerable female in the Tuscan shyed the pint bottle at my head--the little thing in the Dunstable gave me a back-handed wipe with a parasol, and for an instant my life was in positive danger from the shower of fans, hymnbooks, and other missiles that fell around me.  "Put him out, Martha," said an old lady to a lovely being in a blue dress in an adjacent pew.  "I sha'n't," was the reply, "I haven't been introduced to him."  "Wretched creature," said the President in an awful voice, "who are you?"  "Reporter for the Alta" <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>205</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>190</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>And now, Mr. Editor, what are we to think of this?  Does it not give rise to very serious reflections, that a society should exist in our very midst of so nefarious--but indignation is useless.  "I can not do justice to the subject."  Ruffled in disposition, wounded to the heart in the best and most sacred feelings of my common nature, I can only subscribe myself,</P>
198.sgm:<P>Your outraged Reporter.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>191</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INAUGURATION OF THE NEW COLLECTOR!--TREMENDOUS EXCITEMENT!!</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>ORIENTAL HOTEL, SAN FRANCISCO.</P>
198.sgm:<P>PASSING up Montgomery Street yesterday afternoon, between 3 and 4 o'clock, my attention was attracted by a little gentleman with a small mustache, who rushed hastily past me, and turning down Commercial Street sought to escape observation by plunging among the crowd of drays that perpetually tangle up Long Wharf.  Though slightly lame, he had passed me with a speed that may have been equaled, but for a man of his size could never have been excelled; and his look of frantic terror--his countenance wild, pallid with apprehension, as I caught for an instant his horror-stricken gaze, I shall never forget.  I had turned partly around to watch his flight, when with a sudden shock I was borne hurriedly along, and in an instant found myself struggling and plunging in the midst of a mighty crowd, who were evidently in hot pursuit.  There were old men, young men, and maidens--at least I presume they were maidens, but it was no time for close scrutiny;--there were Frenchmen, Englishmen, Chinamen, and every other description of men; gentlemen with spectacles and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>192</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>There was no shouting--a look of stern and gloomy determination sat on the countenance of each individual; and save an occasional muttered ejaculation of "There he goes!"  "I see him!" we rushed on in horrid silence.</P>
198.sgm:<P>A sickly feeling came over me as the conviction that I was in the midst of the far-famed and dreaded Vigilance Committee settled on my mind; here was I, borne along with them, an involuntary and unwilling member--I, a life member of the Anti-Capital Punishment Society, and author of the little work called Peace, or Directions for the use of the Sword as a Pruning Hook, who never killed a fly in my life--here I was, probably about to countenance, by my presence, the summary execution of the unhappy little culprit with the small mustache, who, for aught I knew to the contrary, might be as immaculate as Brigham Young himself.</P>
198.sgm:<P>What would Brother Greeley say to see me now?  But it was no time for reflection.  "Onward we drove in dreadful race, pursuers and pursued," over boxes, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>193</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:bales, drays, and horses; the Jews screamed and shut their doors as they saw us coming; there was a shower of many-bladed knives, German silver pencils, and impracticable pistols as the show-cases flew wildly in the air.  It was a dreadful scene.  I am not a fleshy man--that is, not particularly fleshy--but an old villain with a bald head and spectacles punched me in the abdomen; I lost my breath, closed my eyes, and remembered nothing further.  On recovering my faculties, I found myself jammed up flat against a sugar-box, like a hoe-cake, with my head protruding over the top in the most uncomfortable manner, and apparently the weight of the whole crowd (amounting by this time to some six thousand) pressed against me, keeping me inextricably in my position.  Here for an instant I caught a glimpse of a Stockton boat just leaving the wharf;--then everything was obscured by a sudden shower of something white, and then burst from the mob a deep and melancholy howl, prolonged, terrific, hideous.  I wrenched myself violently from the sugar-box, and confronted a seedy-looking individual with a battered hat; in his hand he held a crumpled paper, and on his countenance sat the gloom of despair.  "In the name of heaven," I gasped, "what is this?"  "He has escaped," he replied, with a deep groan.  "What has he done?" said I; "who is the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>209</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>194</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:criminal?"  "Done," said he of the seedy garments, turning moodily away, "nothing-- <HI REND="italics">it is the new Collector</HI>
198.sgm:An office-seeker had thrown a letter attached to a stone, which had dislodged four of his front teeth!  As I gazed, the steamer's wheels <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>195</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:began to move.  At her after-cabin window appeared a nose above a small mustache, a thumb and fingers twinkled for an instant in the sunlight, and she was gone.  I walked up the wharf, and gazed ruefully on my torn clothing and shattered boots, which had suffered much in this struggle of democracy.  "Thank God! oh, Squibob," said I, "that you are a fool, or what amounts to the same thing in these times--a Whig--and have no offices to dispense, and none to seek for.  Verily, the aphorism of Scripture is erroneous.  It should read, <HI REND="italics">It is equally cursed to give as to receive</HI>
198.sgm:<P>I repaired to my own room at the Oriental.  Passing the chamber of the Collector, I espied within the chambermaid, an interesting colored person named Nancy.  Now I used to have an unworthy prejudice against the colored race; but since reading that delightful and truthful work, Uncle Stowe's Log, my sympathies are with them, and I have rather encouraged a Platonic attachment for Nancy, which had been engendered between us by numerous acts of civility on my part and amiability on hers.  So I naturally stopped to speak to her.  <HI REND="italics">She stood up to her middle in unopened letters</HI>
198.sgm:.  There must have been on the floor of that room eighteen thousand unopened letters.  The monthly mail from the East would be nothing to it.  "Mr. Squibob," said Nancy, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>211</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>196</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>NO. I</P>
198.sgm:<P>MY DEAR FRIEND: I presume you will be perfectly surrounded this morning, as usual, by a crowd of heartless office-seekers; I therefore take this method of addressing you.  I thank God, I want no office for myself or others.  You have known me for years, and have never known me to do a mean or dishonorable action.  I saw W-- up at Stockton the other day, and he is very anxious that I should be appointed Inspector of Steamboats.  He said that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>197</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Your affectionate friend.</P>
198.sgm:<P>P.S.--My friend John Smith, who you know is a true Pierce &amp; King man, is anxious to get the appointment of Weigher and Gauger of Macaroni.  He is an excellent fellow, and a true friend of yours.  I hope, whether you can spare an Inspectorship for me or not, you will give Smith a chance.</P>
198.sgm:<P>NO. II</P>
198.sgm:<P>MY DEAR SIR: Allow me to congratulate you on your success in obtaining your wishes.  I have called twice to see you, but have not been able to find you in.  You were kind enough to assure me, before leaving for Washington, that I might depend upon your friendship.  I think it very improbable that I shall be renominated.  The water-front Extension project has not been received with that favor that I expected, and what with Roman and the Whigs and that d--d Herald, I feel very doubtful.  You will oblige me by retaining in your possession, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>198</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Very truly yours.</P>
198.sgm:<P>P.S.--My young friend, Mr. John Brown, wishes to be made Inspector of Vermicelli.  He is a pure Democrat dyed in the wool, and I trust in making your appointments you will not overlook his claims.  Brown tells me he considers himself almost a relative of yours.  His aunt used to go to school with your father.  She frequently writes to him, and always speaks of you with great esteem.</P>
198.sgm:<P>NO. III</P>
198.sgm:<P>MON AMIE: I ave been ver malade since that I hav arrive, I ver muche thank you for you civilite on la vapor which we come ici, juntos.  The peoples here do say to me, you si pued give to me the littel offices in you customs house.  I wish if si usted gustan you me shall make to be Inspectors de cigarritos.  Je l entends muy bien.  Come to me see.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Countess de--</P>
198.sgm:<P>Mister Jose&acute; Jones he say wish to be entree clerky.  You mucho me oblige by make him do it.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>NO. IV</P>
198.sgm:<P>The following was evidently dictated by some belligerent old Democrat to an amanuensis, who appears not to have got precisely the ideas intended:</P>
198.sgm:<P>SIR: I have been a dimocrat of the Jackson School thank God for twenty years.  If you sir had been erected to an orifice by the pusillanimous sufferings of the people as I was onst I would have no clam but sir you are appointed by Pierce for whom I voted and King who is dead as Julia's sister and I expectorate the office for which my friends will ask you sir I am a plane man and wont the orifice of Prover and taster of Brandy and wish you write to me at the Niantic where I sick three days and have to write by a young gentleman or come to see me before eleven o'clock when I generally get sick  Yours</P>
198.sgm:<P>P.S.  My young man mr. Peter Stokes I request may be made inspector of pipes</P>
198.sgm:<P>NO. V</P>
198.sgm:<P>Mr. Colected H--<HSEP>Detor</P>
198.sgm:<P>Elizer Muggins</P>
198.sgm:<P>fore dosen peaces<HSEP>$12..</P>
198.sgm:<P>Receat pament.</P>
198.sgm:<P>MISTER COLECTED My husban Mikel Muggins will wish me write you no matur for abuv if you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>215</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>ELIZIR MUGGINS.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Mike wants Mr. Timothy flaherty, who was sergent in Pirces regiment and held Pirces hoss when he rared and throwed him to be a inspector too hes verry good man.<HSEP>E. M.</P>
198.sgm:<P>NO. VI</P>
198.sgm:<P>SIR: I have held for the last four years the appointment of Surveyor of Shellfish in the Custom <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>216</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Very respectfully,</P>
198.sgm:<P>P.S.--My friend Mr. Thomas Styles wishes to keep his office.  Dear sir, he is Inspector of Raccoon Oysters; he is an excellent gentleman, and though they call him a Whig I think dear sir, there is great doubt.  I hope you'll keep us both; it's very hard to get good Inspectors who understand shell-fish.</P>
198.sgm:<P>So much for to-day.  If any gentleman incited by a laudable curiosity wishes to peruse more of these productions, let him proceed to Telegraph Hill, and on the summit of the tower at the extremity of the starboard yard-arm, in the discharge of his duty will be found, always ready, attentive, courteous and obliging,</P>
198.sgm:<P>SQUIBOB.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>217</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SQUIBOB ABHORS STREET INTRODUCTIONS</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>No matter of local interest having occurred, worthy the pen of history, since the return of the "Congressional Rifles" from their target excursion at San Mateo, I propose to devote a few moments to the reprobation of an uncomfortable custom prevalent in this city, to an alarming extent, and which if persisted in, strikes me as calculated to destroy public confidence, and, to use an architectural metaphor, shake the framework of society to its very piles.  I allude to the pernicious habit which everybody seems to have adopted, of making general, indiscriminate and public introductions.  You meet Brown on Montgomery street: "Good morning, Brown;" "How are you, Smith?"  "Let me introduce you to Mr. Jones"--and you forthwith shake hands with a seedy individual, who has been boring Brown for the previous hour for a small loan probably--an individual you never saw before, never had the slightest desire to see, and never wish to see again.  Being naturally of an arid disposition, and perhaps requiring irrigation at that particular moment, you <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>218</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>This is invading a man's <HI REND="italics">quarters</HI>
198.sgm: with a vengeance.  But this is not the worst of it.  Each gentleman to whom you have been introduced, wherever you may meet thereafter, in the billiard-room, tenpin alley, hothouse, or church, introduces you to somebody else, and so the list increases in geometrical progression, like the sum of money which Colman in his arithmetic informs us the gentleman paid for the horse with such a number of nails in his shoes--a story which in early childhood I remember to have implicitly believed.  In this manner you form a crowd of acquaintances, of the majority of whom you recollect neither names nor faces, but being continually assailed by bows and smiles on all sides, from unknown gentlemen, you are forced to avoid the appearance of rudeness, to go bowing and smirking down the street, like a distinguished character in a public procession, or one of those graven images at Tobin &amp; Duncan's which are eternally <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>219</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Only the other day, at the Oriental Hotel, I met an elderly gentleman, who bowed to me in the most pleasant manner as I entered the barroom.  I wasn't quite sure, but I thought I had been introduced to him at Pat Hunt's; so, walking up, I seized him familiarly by one hand, and slapping him on the shoulder with the other, exclaimed: "How are you, old cock?"  I shall not soon forget his suspicious glance, as muttering, "Old Cock, sir!" he turned indignantly away; nor my confusion at learning shortly after that I had thus irreverently addressed the Rev. Aminadab Sleek, Chairman of the "Society for Propagating the Heathen in California," to whom I had brought a letter of introduction from Mrs. Harriet Bitcher Stowe.  On the same day I met and addressed, with a degree of distant respect almost amounting to veneration, an individual whom I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>220</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>205</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>There are very few gentlemen in San Francisco to whom I should dislike to be introduced, but it is not to gentlemen alone, unhappily, to whom this introduction mania is confined.  Everybody introduces everybody else; your tailor, your barber, and your shoemaker deem it their duty to introduce you to all their numerous and by no means select circle of acquaintance.  An unfortunate friend of mine, T--h-f--l J--s, tells me that, stopping near the Union Hotel the other day to have his boots blacked by a Frenchman, he was introduced by that exile, during the operation, to thirty-eight of his compatriots, owing to which piece of civility he is now suffering with a cutaneous disorder, and has been <HI REND="italics">vi donc-ed, icid</HI>
198.sgm:<P>My own circle of acquaintance is not large; but if I had a dollar for every introduction I have received during the last six weeks I should be able to back up the Baron in one of his magnificent schemes, or purchase the entire establishment of the Herald office.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>221</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>206</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>But I have said quite enough to prove the absurdity of indiscriminate introductions.  Hoping, therefore, that you will excuse my introduction of the subject, and that Winn won't make an advertisement out of this article,</P>
198.sgm:<P>I remain, as ever, yours faithfully.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>222</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>207</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE LITERARY CONTRIBUTION BOX</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>LINES TO LOLA MONTES</P>
198.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, June 13th, 1853.</P>
198.sgm:<P>ON assuming the responsible position of poetical critic for the Herald, I applied to my friend Mr. Parry for permission to place in one corner of his San Francisco renowned establishment a cigar-box, with a perforated sliding cover, for the reception of poetical contributions, a request which that gentleman most urbanely granted.  Knowing that "Parry's" was the favorite resort of the wits, literati, and savants of the city, I hoped and believed that this enterprise would be crowned with the success that it merited; but either our city poets are unable to find quarters in that establishment, or there is a dearth of that description of talent at present; for, with the exception of two or three contributions of "old soldiers" and a half-dollar deposited by an inebriated member of the last Legislature, on the representation of his friends that the box was placed there for the relief of distressed Chinese women, nothing has come of it.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>223</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>208</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Diurnally, after imbibing my morning glass of bimbo (a temperance drink, composed of "three parts of root beer and two of water-gruel, thickened with a little soft squash, and strained through a cane-bottomed chair"), have I gazed mournfully into that aching void, and have turned away to meet the sympathetic glance of Batten, who, being a literary man himself, feels for my disappointment, and shakes his head sadly as in reply to my mute inquiry he utters the significant monosyllable "Nix."  But this morning my exertions were rewarded:  "I had a bite."  In my box I found the following contribution, and, feeling delighted at my success, and to encourage others who may dread criticism, I shall publish it without remark or annotation, merely premising that I know nothing whatever of M. W. but that he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>224</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>209</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:appears to be a worthy and impulsive young fellow, who, having become possessed of five dollars, invested it very properly in the purchase of a ticket at the American Theater, where he incontinently fell in love with Mrs. Heald (as possibly others may have done before him), and where he hastily "threw off" the following lines, written doubtless on the back of a playbill, immediately after the conclusion of the Spider Dance, where he probably found himself in a sweet state compounded of love, excitement, and perspiration, caused by a great physical exertion in producing the <HI REND="italics">encore</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"TO LOLA MONTES <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"FAIR LOLA!<LB>"I cannot believe, as I gaze on thy face,<LB>And into thy soul-speaking eye,<LB>There rests in thy bosom one lingering trace<LB>Of a spirit the world should decry.<LB>No, Lola, no!<LB>"I read in those eyes, and on that clear brow,<LB>A Spirit--a Will--it is true;<LB>I trace there a Soul--kind, loving, e'en now;<LB>But it is not a wanton I view;<LB>No, Lola, no!<LB>"I will not believe thee cold, heartless and vain!<LB>Man's <HI REND="italics">victim</HI>
198.sgm: thou ever hast been!<LB>With <HI REND="italics">thee</HI>
198.sgm: rests the sorrow, on <HI REND="italics">thee</HI>
198.sgm: hangs the chain.<LB>Then on thee should the world cast the sin?<LB>No, Lola, no.</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"M. W."</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>225</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>210</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Now, isn't this--but I promised not to criticize.  Try it again, M. W.--you'll do!  Winn, who is looking over my shoulder, and is a connoisseur in this description of poetry, says it is very fair--but he will persist in inquiring "what chain is alluded to in the last line but one?"  He thinks "there is a link wanting there to complete the connection."  But never mind this, M. W.; he would be glad enough to reward you liberally for a similar article laudatory of buckwheat cakes and golden syrup.  Don't be disheartened!  Just you go on and fill the cigar-box, confident of deserving the "smiles" of Parry, the "cheer" of Batten, and the appreciation, with a "first-rate notice," of your admiring</P>
198.sgm:<P>SQUIBOB.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>226</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>211</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>RETURN OF THE COLLECTOR</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>THRILLING AND FRANTIC EXCITEMENT AMONG OFFICE-SEEKERS.  PROCESSION AND SPEECH</P>
198.sgm:<P>INTELLIGENCE having reached the city yesterday morning that the new Collector might be expected by the Sophie from Stockton, at an early hour in the afternoon the crowd of office-seekers began to assemble, and by eight o'clock last evening every avenue of approach to Long Wharf was entirely closed and the wharf itself so densely packed with human beings that the merchants and others compelled to resort thither were obliged to step from the corner of Montgomery and Commercial Streets upon the heads of the crowd and proceed to their places of business over a living pavement.  Much suffering having been caused by the passage of loaded drays and other carriages over the shoulders of the crowd, and many serious accidents having occurred to individuals--among which we can only notice the unfortunate case of a plethoric elderly gentleman, who, slipping on a glazed hat, fell down and broke himself somewhere--our worthy Mayor, ever alive to the calls of humanity, throwing aside all political <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>227</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>212</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>There was no fighting or disorder among the crowd, for so closely were they packed that no man could move a finger; one unfortunate individual, who, at an early stage of the proceedings, had inadvertently raised his arm above his head, remained with it immutably fixed in that position.  Like an East Indian Fakir, who had taken a vow to point for ever toward heaven, that melancholy hand was seen for hours directed toward the nearest bonded warehouse.  Some idea of the amiable feeling existing among the multitude may be gathered from the statement of Capt. J-- B--, familiarly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>228</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>213</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:known as "Truthful James."  He informs me that early this morning the keeper of a restaurant on the wharf picked up no less than seven hundred and eighty-four ears and three peck baskets full of mutilated fragments!  To use the words of James, as with horror-stricken countenance he made me this communication, "they had been <HI REND="italics">chawed</HI>
198.sgm:, sir!  <HI REND="italics">actilly chawed off</HI>
198.sgm:<P>At half-past nine o'clock an electric shock ran through the vast assemblage at the well-known sound of the Sophie's bell.  All the agony and suffering of the past few hours was forgotten: for an instant Long Wharf quivered like an aspen-leaf, and then rose to heaven a mighty shout, which shook every building in the city to its foundations.  The Sophie approached the wharf, the Collector and her other passengers disembarked, and in a few moments a procession was formed and proceeded in the following order to the Oriental:</P>
198.sgm:<P>THE NEW COLLECTOR,</P>
198.sgm:<P>In a carriage drawn by two horses, lashed to their utmost speed, tearing along Battery Street toward the Hotel.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>229</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>214</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>All the male inhabitants of Stockton (except one reckless and despairing old Whig, who, knowing he had no chance, and being confined to his bed by sickness, remained behind to take charge of the city) running eight abreast at the top of their speed.</P>
198.sgm:<P>THE POLICE OF SAN FRANCISCO,</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">On a dead run, and much blown</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Candidates for office in the Custom House who had known the Collector in his early youth, ten abreast, bearing a banner with the following motto: "Don't you remember the path where we met, long, long ago?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>A fire company, who had inadvertently turned into Battery Street, were driven furiously along with the procession, and were wondering how the d--l they were ever to get out of it.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Candidates for office who had lately become acquainted with the Collector, twelve abreast.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Banner--"We saw him but a moment, but methinks we've got him now."</P>
198.sgm:<P>Candidates who fervently wished to the Lord they could get acquainted with him.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Candidates who had frequently heard of him--forty-five abreast.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>230</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>215</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>THE U.S. ARMY,</P>
198.sgm:<P>Consisting of a discharged sergeant of the 9th infantry, slightly inebriated, one abreast, desiring the Deputy Collectorship, or the Porterage, or that the Collector would give him four bits--didn't care a d--n which.</P>
198.sgm:<P>MUSIC,</P>
198.sgm:<P>By an unhappy dog, trodden under foot by the crowd and giving vent to the most unearthly yells.</P>
198.sgm:<P>All the members of the Democratic party in California who do not wish for an office in the Custom House, consisting of a fortunate miner who had made his pile and was going home on the first of the month.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Gentlemen who had the promise of appointments from influential friends, and were sure of getting them, walking arm in arm with gentlemen without distinction of party, who were confident of drawing the Diamond watch in Reeve's Lottery.  This part of the procession was four hours in passing a given point.</P>
198.sgm:<P>M. L. WINN,</P>
198.sgm:<P>Bearing in his right hand a pole, from which floated a Bill of Fare three hundred and twenty-six feet in length, and in his left a buckwheat cake glittering with golden syrup.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>231</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>216</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>MR. BRANCH,</P>
198.sgm:<P>Supporting the other extremity of the Bill of Fare.</P>
198.sgm:<P>CITIZENS GENERALLY.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The procession having moved with great rapidity, soon arrived at the Oriental, but not so soon as the Collector, who, rushing hastily into his room, locked and barricaded the door, having previously instructed the Landlord to inform all persons who might inquire for him that he was dead.  Meanwhile the multitude had completely surrounded the hotel, and signified their impatience and disgust at finding the doors closed, by angry roars, uttered at half-second intervals.  Finding their cries disregarded, a sudden movement took place among them, and for a few moments I feared the hotel was to be carried by storm, when a window on Bush Street opened, and a gentleman, whom the darkness of the evening prevented my completely identifying, but who I religiously believe to have been the Collector, appeared, and amid the most profound silence made the following beautiful and touching address:  "Gentlemen--I wish to God you would all go to bed; you have worried and annoyed me beyond endurance.  I am not to be caught by you as was General Scott, for I actually have no time to remove any portion of my clothing.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>232</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>217</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The scene without now beggared description: roars, yells, frantic cries for "ladders!"  "ladders!"  rent the air.  Within the hotel all was alarm and confusion--the ladies screamed, children cried, the alarmed proprietor spoke of sending for the Mary Ann Rifles, when--the scene suddenly changed.  Upon the piazza of the house appeared a gentleman, walking slowly with his hands in the pockets of a shawl dressing-gown: he wore a brown wig, and an enormous pair of false whiskers framed his well-rouged cheeks.  In a word, he was dressed in the character of Sir Harcourt Courtly.  Turning slowly toward the crowd, he withdrew one hand from the pocket of the shawl dressing-gown, and slowly and awkwardly extending it, said: "Cool!"  It was sufficient.  For an instant a shudder ran through the mob--then, with cries of " <HI REND="italics">It's him!  it's Greene</HI>
198.sgm:!" they broke and dispersed in every direction--up Bush and down Battery, through Stockton Street and over the sand-hills they fled like frightened deer.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>233</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>218</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>PHOENIX.</P>
198.sgm:<P>SATURDAY MORNING.</P>
198.sgm:<P>P.S. "Truthful James" has just rushed up in a frantic state to inform me that the Collector did not arrive last night after all.  When I made my report, I did not know whether he had or not, but I am inclined now to think he might have done so.  I don't know that it makes any difference.  If he did arrive, my report is all true now--if he did not, why, when he <HI REND="italics">does</HI>
198.sgm:<P>PHOENIX.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>234</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>PHOENIX TAKES AN AFFECTIONATE LEAVE OF SAN FRANCISCO</P>
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198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>236</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>221</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PHOENIX TAKES AN AFFECTIONATE LEAVE OF SAN FRANCISCO</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>SAN DIEGO, Aug. 10, 1853.</P>
198.sgm:<P>IT was about 7 1/2 A.M., on the first day of this present month of August, that I awaked from a very pleasant dream in the great city of San Francisco to the very unpleasant conviction that it was a damp and disagreeable morning, and that my presence was <illus entity="a198-0049" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
198.sgm:particularly required in the small city of San Diego.  So, having shaken hands with Frink, taken an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>237</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>222</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:affectionate leave of the chambermaid, and, lastly, devoured a beefsteak at the Branch of Alden, which viand, in perfect keeping with the weather, was both cold and raw, I shouldered my cane, with a carpetbag suspended at each end, "a la Chinois," and left the Tehama House without "one lingering hope or fond regret."  When a man is going down, everybody lends him a kick, an aphorism which I came very near realizing in my own proper person, for as I went on my way down Long Wharf I accidentally grazed a mule, who, being in an evil frame of mind and harnessed to a dray, might be considered as passionately attached to that conveyance.  This interesting animal, fancying from my appearance that I was "going down," "lent me a kick," which, had his legs been two inches longer, would have put a stop to my correspondece for ever.  As it was I escaped, and hurried on down the wharf, thinking with a shudder on the mysterious prophecy of my friend little Miss B., who had told me I was "sure to be kicked" before I left San Francisco, and wondering if she was really "among the prophets."  The Northerner, like the steamboat runners, was <HI REND="italics">lying</HI>
198.sgm: at the end of the wharf, blowing off steam, and, as usual when a steamer is about to leave for Panama, a great crowd surrounded her.  What made them all get up so early?  Out of the three or four hundred people <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>238</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>223</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:on the end of that wharf I don't believe fifty had friends that were about to sail.  No! they love to look upon a steamer sailing.  It brings to their minds recollections of the dear ones at home to whom she is speeding with fond tidings, and they love to gaze and wish to Heaven they were going in her.  The usual mob of noisy fruit-venders encompassed the gangway plank; green pears they sold to greener purchasers; apples, also, whereof everything but the shape of an apple had long since departed, and oranges, the recollection of one of which doth to this day abide by me and set my teeth on edge; but high above their din, the roar of the steamer, and the murmuring of the crowd, rang the shrill cry of the newsboy in his unknown tongue, <HI REND="italics">Here's the Alteruldniguntimes Heup</HI>
198.sgm:<P>A tall, gaunt specimen of Pike County humanity stood regarding them approvingly, his head thrown slightly back, to get their points to better advantage.  It was the tomb gazing on its victim.  As I paused for a moment to look on the picture, Pike yawned fearfully, his head opening like the top of an old-fashioned fall-back chaise.  The nearest bullock, turning, caught his eye.  I thought the unhappy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>239</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>224</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>As the last line fell from the dock, and our noble steamer with a mighty throb and deep sigh, at bidding adieu to San Francisco, swung slowly round, the passengers crowded to the side to exchange a farewell salutation with their friends and acquaintances.  "Good-by, Jones," "Good-by, Brown," "God bless you, old fellow, take care of yourself!" they shouted.  Not seeing anyone that I knew, and fearing the passengers might think I had no friends, I shouted "Good-by, Muggins," and had the satisfaction of having a shabby man, much inebriated, reply, as he swung his rimless hat, "Good-by, my brother."  Not particularly elated at this recognition, I tried it again, with, "Good-by, Colonel," whereat thirty-four <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>240</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>225</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Away we sped down the bay, the captain standing on the wheel-house directing our course.  "Port, Port a little, Port," he shouted.  "What's he a calling for?" inquired a youth of good-natured but unmistakable verdancy of appearance of me.  "Port wine," said I, "and the storekeeper don't hear him; you'd better take him up some."  "I will," said Innocence; "I've got a bottle of first-rate in my stateroom."  And he did, but soon returned with a particularly crestfallen and sheepish appearance.  "Well, what did he say to you?" inquired I.  "Pointed at the notice on that tin," said the poor fellow.  "Passengers not allowed on the wheel-house."  " <HI REND="italics">He</HI>
198.sgm: is, though, ain't he?" added my friend, with a faint attempt at a smile, as the captain in an awful voice shouted: "Starboard!"  "Is what?" said I, " <HI REND="italics">Loud on the wheel-house</HI>
198.sgm:<P>At 9 o'clock in the evening we arrived at Monterey, where our modest salute was answered by the thundering response of a 24-pounder from the fort.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>241</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>226</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:This useful defensive work, which mounts some twenty heavy guns and contains quarters for a regiment, was built in 1848 by Halleck, Peachy &amp; Billings.  It is now used as a hermitage by a lonely officer of the U.S. Army.  The people of Monterey have a wild legend concerning this desolate recluse.  I was told that he passes the whole of his time in sleep, never by any chance getting out of bed until he hears the gun of a steamer, when he rushes forth in his shirt, fires off a 24-pounder, sponges and reloads it, takes a drink, and turns in again.  They never have seen him; it's only by his <HI REND="italics">semi-monthly reports</HI>
198.sgm: they know of his existence.  "Well," said I to my informant, a bustling little fellow named Bootjacks, who came off on board of us, "suppose some day a steamer should arrive and he should not return her gun?"  "Well, sir," replied Bootjacks, with a quaint smile, "we should conclude that he was either dead or <HI REND="italics">out of powder</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>242</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>227</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>MONTEREY MARKETS</P>
198.sgm:<P>The arrival of a stranger by the Maj. Tompkins from San Francisco, during the past week, with specie to the amount of $4 87&frac12;, most of which has been put in circulation, has produced an unprecedented activity among our business men.  Confidence is in a great measure restored, and our merchants have had no reason to complain of want of occupation.  The following is the state of our market, for the principal articles of domestic consumption:</P>
198.sgm:<P>FLOUR--Twenty-five pounds, imported by Boston &amp; Co. per Major Tompkins, still in first hands; flour in small quantities in jobbing readily at 15 &commat; 18 cents per lb.  We notice sales of 10 lb by Boston &amp; Co., to Judge Merritt, on private terms.</P>
198.sgm:<P>PORK--The half bbl. imported by Col. Russell, in March last, is nearly all in the hands of jobbers; sales of 4 lb at $1, half cash; remainder in note at 4 months.  A half bbl. expected by Bootjack &amp; Co., early in September, will over-stock the market.</P>
198.sgm:<P>CANDY--Sale of 6 sticks by Boston &amp; Co. to purser of Maj. Tompkins, on private terms; the market has a downward tendency; candy is jobbing in sticks at 6 &commat; 8 cents.</P>
198.sgm:<P>POTATOES--We notice arrival of 10 lb from the Santa Cruz, no sales.</P>
198.sgm:<P>DRY GOODS--Sales of two cotton pocket hdkfs. by McKinley &amp; Co. at 621/2 &commat; 75 cents; indorsed note at 6 months.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Lively place this.  Thank Heaven, my lot is not cast there--it was once, but the people sold it for <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>243</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>228</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Four bells tinkled from the little bell aft; four bells chimed from its deep-toned brother forward, and, being of a retiring disposition, I retired.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>244</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>PHOENIX IS ON THE SEA</P>
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198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>231</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PHOENIX IS ON THE SEA</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>Bright and beautiful rose the sun from out the calm blue sea, its early rays gleaming on the snow-white decks of the Northerner and "gilding refined gold" as they penetrated the stateroom "A," and lingering, played among the tresses of the slumbering McAuburn.  It was a lovely morning, "the winds were all hushed, and the waters at rest," and no sound was heard but the throbbing of the engine and the splash of the paddle-wheels as the gallant old Northerner sped on her way, "tracking the trackless sea."  Two sailors engaged in their morning devotions with the holy-stones near my room amused me not a little.  One of them, either accidentally or with "malice prepense," threw a bucket of water against the bulwark, which, <HI REND="italics">ricocheting</HI>
198.sgm:, struck the other on his dorsal extremity as he leaned to his work, making that portion of his frame exceedingly damp and him exceedingly angry.  "You just try that again,--your soul," exclaimed the offended one, "and I'll slap your chops for you."  "Oh, yes you will," sarcastically rejoined he of the water-bucket.  "I've heerd of you afore!  <HI REND="italics">You're old chop-slapper's son</HI>
198.sgm:, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>247</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>232</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<HI REND="italics">ain't you?  Father went round slapping people's chops, didn't he?</HI>
198.sgm:<P>There was no excuse for being sick that morning, so our passengers, still pale, but with cheerful hope depicted in their countenances, soon began to throng the deck, cigars were again brought into requisition, and we had an opportunity of ascertaining "whether there was any Bourbon among us."  A capital set of fellows they were.  There was Moore, and Parker, and Bowers (one of Joe Bowers's boys), and Sarsaparilla Meade, and Freeman, which last-mentioned gentlemen, so amusing were they, appeared to be traveling <HI REND="italics">expressly</HI>
198.sgm: to entertain us.  And there were no ladies, which to me was a blessed dispensation.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh, woman! in our hours of ease<LB>Uncertain, coy, and hard to please;<LB>When pain and anguish wring the brow,<LB>A ministering angel thou."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Certainly, but at sea, Woman, you are decidedly disagreeable.  In the first place, you generally bring babies with you, which are a crying evil, and then you have to have the best stateroom and the first seat at the table, and monopolize the captain's attention and his room, and you make remarks to one another about us, and our cigars and profanity, and accuse <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>248</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>233</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>We had a glorious day aboard the old Northerner; we played whist, and sang songs, and told stories, many of which were coeval with our ancient school-lessons, and like them came very easy, going over the second time, and many drank strong waters, and, becoming mopsed thereon, toasted "the girls we'd left behind us," whereat one, who, being a temperance man, had guzzled soda-water until his eyes seemed to <HI REND="italics">pop</HI>
198.sgm: from his head, pondered deeply, sighed, and said nothing.  And so we laughed, and sang, and played, and whiskied, and soda-watered through the day.  And fast the old Northerner rolled on.  And at night the captain gave us a grand game supper in his room, at which game we played not, but went at it in sober earnest; and then there were more songs (the same ones, though, and the same stories, too, over again), and some speechifying, and much fun, until at eight bells we separated, some shouting, some laughing, some crying (but not with sorrow), but all extremely happy, and so we turned <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>249</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>234</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>You remember the two snobs that every night, in the pursuit of exercise under difficulties, walk up and down on the deck, arm in arm, right over your stateroom.  You remember how, when just as you are getting into your first doze, they commence tramp! tramp! tramp! right over your head; then you "hear them fainter, fainter still"; you listen in horrible dread of their return, nourishing the while a feeble-minded hope that they may have gone below--when, horror! here they come, louder, louder, till tramp! tramp! tramp! they go over your head again, and with rage in your heart at the conviction that sleep is impossible you sit up in bed and despairingly light an unnecessary cigar.  They were on board the Northerner, and the night before had aroused my indignation to that strong pitch that I had determined on their downfall.  So, before retiring, I proceeded to the upper deck, and there did I quietly attach a small cord to the stanchions, which, stretching across about six inches from the planking, formed what in maritime matters is known as a "booby trap."  This done, I repaired to my room, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>250</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>235</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0050" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TRAMP!  TRAMP!  TRAMP!</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>251</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>236</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:turned in, and calmly awaited the result.  In ten minutes they came, I heard them laughing together as they mounted the ladder.  Then commenced the exercise, louder, louder, tramp! tramp!--thump! (a double-barreled thump) down they came together.  "Oh, what a fall was there, my countrymen."  Two deep groans were elicited, and then followed what, if published, would make two closely printed royal octavo pages of profanity.  I heard them d--n the soul of the man that did it.  It was <HI REND="italics">my</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The next morning bright and early the Coronados hove in sight, and at 10 o'clock we rounded Point Loma and ran alongside the coal hulk Clarissa Andrews, at the Playa of San Diego--just forty-nine hours from San Francisco.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The captain (he is the crew also) of the Clarissa Andrews, the gallant Bogart, stood on her rail ready to catch our flying line, and in a few moments we were secured alongside, our engine motionless and my journey ended.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>252</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>237</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>It was with no small regret that I bade adieu to our merry passengers and our glorious captain.  Noble fellow!  I don't wonder enthusiastic passengers get up subscriptions and make speeches and present plate and trumpets and what not to such men.  It's very natural.</P>
198.sgm:<P>A good captain is sure to have a good ship; a voyage with him becomes an agreeable matter; he makes his passengers happy, and they very naturally fall in love with him, and seek some method of displaying their attachment and "trumpeting his praise abroad."  Our captain was one of this sort; kind, courteous, and obliging, and "every inch a sailor," he is as much beloved and respected by his passengers as Dick Whiting of the California (who, to my mind, is the <HI REND="italics">ne plus ultra</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The Northerner, too, is a splendid and most comfortable ship, as which of the Pacific Mail boats are not? however.  And this subject brings to my mind a little circumstance which took place the day before I left San Francisco.</P>
198.sgm:<P>A shabby-genteel individual, with a pale face, in the center of which shone a purple nose that couldn't be beat (though it resembled the vegetable of that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>253</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>238</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:name), called on me, and, drawing from his coat-tail pocket, with an air of mystery, a voluminous manuscript, spread it solemnly before me and requested my signature.  It was a petition to Congress, or Mr. Pierce, or John Bigler, or somebody, to transfer the contract for carrying the mails from the "Pacific Company" to "Vanderbilt's Line," and was signed by Brown &amp; Co., Jones &amp; Co., Smith &amp; Brothers, Noakes, Stiles &amp; Thompson, and ever so many more responsible firms, whereof I recognized but one, which deals in candy nightly at the corner of Commercial and Montgomery Streets, and pays no taxes, and whose correspondence with the Eastern States I suspect is not large.  I love to sign my name.  It is a weakness that most modest men have.  I love to write it, and cut it, and scratch it on steeples and monuments and other places of public resort.  Most men do.  It looks pretty, passes away the time, perpetuates their memory among posterity, and <HI REND="italics">costs nothing</HI>
198.sgm:.  I frequently buy something that I don't want at all, just for the pleasure of signing my name to a check--(I bought a ridiculous buggy the other day for no other reason that I can imagine).  But I had no inclination to append my autograph to <HI REND="italics">that</HI>
198.sgm: petition, and I declined--positively and peremptorily declined.  My friend with the nose rolled up his eyes and rolled up his paper, pocketed it, and was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>254</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>239</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Having taken leave of all on board the dear old Northerner, and shaken hands twice all round, during which process the mate sang out, "Bare a hand there," and I mechanically took off my glove, McAuburn and I were transported to the shore, where, while waiting for a wagon to take us to the old town of San Diego, we stopped at the little public house of the Playa, kept by a civil fellow named Donahoo, whom the Spaniards here, judging from his name ( <HI REND="italics">Don't know who</HI>
198.sgm: ), believe to be the son of old " <HI REND="italics">Quien sabe</HI>
198.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>255</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<HEAD>PHOENIX IN SAN DIEGO</HEAD>
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198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>THE Bay of San Diego is shaped like a boot, the leg forming the entrance from the sea, and the toe, extending some twelve miles inland at right angles to it, as a matter of course, points southward to the latter end of Mexico, from which it is distant at present precisely three miles!</P>
198.sgm:<P>The three villages, then, which go to make up the great city of San Diego, are the "Playa," "Old Town," and "New Town," or "Davis's Folly."  At the "Playa" there are but few buildings at present, and these not remarkable for size or architectural beauty of design.  A long, low, one-storied tenement, near the base of the hills, once occupied by rollicking Captain Magruder and the officers under his command, is now the place where Judge Witherby, like Matthew, patiently "sits at the receipt of customs."  But few <HI REND="italics">customers</HI>
198.sgm: appear, for, with the exception of the mail steamers once a fortnight, and the Goliah and Ohio, two little coasting steamers that wheeze in and out once or twice a month, the calm waters of San Diego Bay remain unruffled by keel or cutwater from one year's end to another.  Such a thing as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>259</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>244</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:Then there is the "Ocean House" (that's Donahoe's), and a store marked Gardiner &amp; Bleecker, than the inside of which nothing could be bleaker, for "there's nothing in it," and an odd-looking little building on stilts out in the water, where a savant named Sabot, in the employ of the U.S. Engineers, makes mysterious observations <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>260</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>245</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Through this cleft we marched into the bowels of the land without impediment for nearly half a mile, when, being brought toa standstill by a high, smooth wall, McAuburn did proceed to carve thereon a name.  But as he laid out his work on too extensive a scale, the letters being about three feet in length--though he worked with amazing energy--he got no further than this--JO, when his knife broke and the inscription remained incomplete.  Whether, therefore, it was intended to perpetuate to posterity the memory of the great Joseph Bowers, or one of his girls, we may never know, as Mac showed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>261</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>246</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:no disposition to be communicative, and indeed requested me to "dry up" when I questioned him on the subject.  From present appearances, one would be little disposed to imagine that the "Playa" in five or six years might become a city of the size of Louisville, with brick buildings, paved streets, gas-lights, theaters, gambling-houses, <HI REND="italics">and so forth</HI>
198.sgm:.  It is not at all improbable, however, should the great Pacific Railroad terminate at San Diego, an event within the range of probability, the "Playa" must be the depot, and as such will become a point of great importance.  The landholders about here are well aware of this fact, and consequently affix already incredible prices to very unprepossessing pieces of land.  Lots of one hundred and fifty feet front, not situated in particularly eligible places either, have been sold within the last few weeks for five hundred dollars apiece.  " <HI REND="italics">De gustibus</HI>
198.sgm:," etc.  At present I confess I should prefer the money to the real estate.  While at the "Playa," I had the pleasure of forming an acquaintance with the Pilot, Captain Wm. G. Oliver, as noble a specimen of a sailor as you would wish to see.  He was a lieutenant in the Texas navy under the celebrated Moore, and told me many yarns concerning that gallant commander.  Great injustice, I think, has been done in not giving to these officers the rank to which they are entitled in our <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>262</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>247</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The old town of San Diego is pleasantly situated on the left bank of the little river that bears its name.  It contains, perhaps, a hundred houses, some of wood, but mostly of the "Adoban" or "Gresan" order of architecture.  A small Plaza forms the center of the town, one side of which is occupied by a little <HI REND="italics">adobe</HI>
198.sgm: building used as a court-room, the "Colorado House," a wooden structure, whereof the second story is occupied by the San Diego Herald, as a vast sign <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>263</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>248</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:bearing that legend informed us, and the Exchange, a hostelry, at which we stopped.  This establishment is kept by Hoof (familiarly known as Johnny, but whom I once christened <HI REND="italics">Cloven</HI>
198.sgm: ), and Tibbetts, who is also called <HI REND="italics">Two bitts</HI>
198.sgm:, in honorable distinction from an unworthy partner he once had, who obtained unenviable notoriety as " <HI REND="italics">Picayune Smith</HI>
198.sgm:<P>He was sent out from Washington some months since, "to dam the San Diego River," and he informed me, with a deep sigh and melancholy smile, that he had done it (mentally) several times since his arrival.  Here, also, I made the acquaintance of Squire Moon, a jovial, middle-aged gentleman from the State of Georgia, who replied to my inquiries concerning his health, that he was "as fine as silk, but not half so well beliked by the ladies."  After partaking of supper, which meal was served up in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>264</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>249</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:the rear of the billiard-room, <HI REND="italics">al fresco</HI>
198.sgm:, from a clothless table, upon an earthen floor, I fell in conversation with Judge Ames, the talented, good-hearted but eccentric editor of the San Diego Herald, of whom the poet Andrews, in his immortal work, The Cocopa Maid, once profanely sang as follows:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"There was a man whose name was Ames,<LB>His aims were aims of mystery;<LB>His story old, I think by--<LB>Would make a famous history."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>I found " the Judge" exceedingly agreeable, urbane, and well informed, and obtained from him much valuable information regarding San Diego and its statistics.  San Diego contains at present about seven hundred inhabitants, two-thirds of whom are "native and to the manner born," the remainder a mixture of American, English, German, Hebrew, and Pike County.  There are seven stores or shops in the village, where anything may be obtained from a fine-tooth comb to a horse-rake, two public-houses, a Catholic church, which meets in a private residence, and a Protestant <HI REND="italics">ditto</HI>
198.sgm:<P>San Diego is the residence of Don Juan Bandini, whose mansion fronts on one side of the Plaza.  He <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>265</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>250</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Having smoked the pipe of contemplation, and played a game of billiards with a young gentleman who remarked "he could give me fifty and beat me," which he certainly did, with a celerity that led me to conclude "he couldn't do anything else," I retired for the night, but not to sleep, as I fondly imagined.  Fleas? rather!  I say nothing at present; my feelings of indignation against those wretched insects are too deep for utterance.  On another occasion, when in a milder mood, I intend to write a letter concerning and condemnatory of them, and publish it.  Yes, by Heaven, if I have to pay for it as an advertisement!</P>
198.sgm:<P>The next morning, bright and early, I parted with my young military friend, McAuburn, who was about to join his company at the Gila River.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>266</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>251</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>How I went to a <HI REND="italics">Baile</HI>
198.sgm:, and visited "New Town," and rode forth to the Mission, and attended a <HI REND="italics">Fiesta</HI>
198.sgm:, and the extraordinary adventures that befell me there, shall form the subject of a future epistle; at present my time is too much occupied, for lo <HI REND="italics">I am an editor</HI>
198.sgm:!  Hasn't Ames gone to San Francisco (with this very letter in his pocket), leaving a notice in his last edition, "that during his absence an able literary friend will assume his position as editor of the Herald," and am I not that able literary friend?  (Heaven save the mark.)  "You'd better believe it."  I've been writing a "leader" and funny anecdotes all day (which will account for the dryness of this production), and <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
198.sgm: a "leader," and <HI REND="italics">such</HI>
198.sgm: anecdotes.  I'll send you the paper next week, and if you don't allow that there's been no such publication, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>267</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>252</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:weekly or serial, since the days of the "Bundum Flagstaff," I'll <HI REND="italics">craw fish</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Yours.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>268</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>CAMP REMINISCENCES</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>269</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>270</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>255</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CAMP REMINISCENCES</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>PERHAPS you will not object to a few short military yarns which I have hastily twined for your edification.  And if the interesting, fair-haired, blue-eyed (or otherwise) son of the reader, now sitting on his knee, on hearing them, should look confidingly into his parent's face, and inquire--"Is that true, Papa?" reply, oh reader, unhesitatingly--"My son, it is."</P>
198.sgm:<P>Many years since, during the height of the Florida war, a company of the Second Infantry made their camp for the night, after a rainy day's march, by the bank of a muddy stream that sluggishly meandered through a dense and unwholesome ever-glade.  Dennis Mulligan, the red-haired Irish servant of the commanding officer, having seen his master's tent comfortably pitched, lit a small fire beneath a huge palmetto, and having cut several slices of fat pork from the daily ration, proceeded to fry that edible for the nightly repast.</P>
198.sgm:<P>In the deep gloom of the evening, silence reigned unbroken but by the crackling of Dennis's small fire and the frizzling of the pork as it crisped and curled <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>271</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>256</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0052" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>DENNIS.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>272</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>257</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:in the mighty mess-pan, when suddenly, with a tremendous "whoosh," the leaves of the palmetto were disturbed and a great barred owl, five feet from tip to tip, settled in the foliage.  Dennis was superstitious (most Irishmen are), and, startled by the disturbance, he suspended for an instant his culinary operations, and, frying-pan in hand, gazed slowly and fearfully about him.  Persuading himself that the noise was but the effect of imagination, he again addressed himself to his task, when the owl set up his fearful hoot, which sounded to the horrified ears of Dennis like, " <HI REND="italics">Who--cooks--for you--all?</HI>
198.sgm: "  Again he suspended operations, again gazed fearfully forth into the night, again persuaded himself that his imagination was at fault, and was about to return to his task, when accidentally glancing upward he beheld the awful countenance and glaring eyes of the owl turned downward upon him, and from that cavernous throat, in hollow tones, again issued the question, " <HI REND="italics">Who--who--cooks--for you--all?</HI>
198.sgm: "  "God bless your honor," said poor Dennis, while the mess-pan shook in his quivering grasp, and the unheeded pork poured forth a molten stream, which, falling upon the flames, caused a burst of illumination that added to the terrors of the scene, "God bless your honor, <HI REND="italics">I</HI>
198.sgm: cooks for Captain Eaton, but I don't know, sir, <HI REND="italics">who</HI>
198.sgm: cooks for the rest of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>273</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>258</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>In New Mexico, at some time during the last two years, Capt. A. B. of the First Dragoons, commanding Troop--, had been stationed about forty miles from a small post commanded by Lieutenant O. B. of the Infantry.  One day Captain B. concluded to ride over and give his neighbor a call; so throwing himself athwart a noble horse, he started, and after a hard gallop--forty miles <HI REND="italics">is</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Reining in his horse and shaking hands with O. B., who came forth to greet him, "on hospitable thought intent," he said, "Well, Lawrence, been to dinner?"  "No, I haven't," was the reply, "just going; come in, come in."  "Devilish glad of it," said Captain B., dismounting, "never was so hungry in all my life."  "Well, come in," said O. B., and they went in accordingly, and took seats at a small uncovered pine table, on which a servant shortly placed a large tin pan full of boiled rice and a broken bottle half full of mustard.  The captain looked despairingly around--there was nothing else.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>274</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>259</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:"Abe," said O. B., as he drew the tin pan toward him, "are you fond of boiled rice?"  "Well, no," said Abe, somewhat hesitatingly, "I can't say that I am--very--Lawrence."  "Ah," replied Lawrence, coolly, " <HI REND="italics">well, just help yourself to the mustard</HI>
198.sgm:<P>For the following, Lieutenant W. of the Engineers is responsible.  He told it to me in 1852, at the Cafe&acute; of Dominico, in Havana.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Old Colonel Tom S., of the Infantry, a very large, burly, red-faced gentleman, with a snow-white head and a voice like a bass trombone, has an unfortunate habit of thinking out loud.  While stationed temporarily in Washington, the old gentleman one Sunday morning took it into his head to go to church, where he took a seat in a pew beneath the pulpit, and, prayer-book in hand, attentively followed the clergyman through the service.  It happened to be the 17th day of the month, but in giving out the Psalms for the day the Rev. Mr. P. made a mistake and announced--"The 16th day of the month, morning prayer, beginning at the 79th Psalm."  When, to the astonishment of the congregation, Old Colonel Tom, in the pew below, in a deep bass voice <HI REND="italics">thought</HI>
198.sgm: aloud--" <HI REND="italics">The</HI>
198.sgm: 17 <HI REND="italics">th day of the month, by Jupiter</HI>
198.sgm:!"  The <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>275</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>260</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:clergyman immediately corrected himself--"Ah! the 17th day of the month, morning prayer, beginning at the 86th Psalm."  When the propriety of the assembly was immediately disturbed by another <HI REND="italics">thought</HI>
198.sgm: from Old Tom, who, in the same deep tone, remarked, " <HI REND="italics">Had him there</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Two years ago, when the gallant Colonel Magruder, of convivial memory, commanded the U.S. forces at the Mission of San Diego, it entered into that officer's head to execute a serenade for the behoof of certain fair ladies then honoring New Town with their presence.  Accordingly, all the officers of the mess who could sing, play, or beat time were pressed into the service, and one night, about 12 o'clock, a jolly crowd left the Mission for New Town in a large wagon plentifully furnished with guitars, flutes, and other arrangements of a musical nature.  Among the rest, a jovial young surgeon, attached to the command, had installed himself on the back seat with <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>276</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>261</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh my name is Jake Keyser, I was born in Spring Garden<LB>To make me a preacher, my father did try;<LB>But it's no use a blowing, for I am a hard one,<LB>And I am bound to be a butcher, by Heavens, or die."</HI>
198.sgm:<P>This unfortunate song had somehow or other occurred to the Doctor, he couldn't get rid of it, he couldn't help singing it; and accordingly, when the whole party were duly ranged beneath the window and, with flutes and voices upraised, were solemnly bleating forth <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oft in the stilly night,"</HI>
198.sgm:<P>the entertainments were disagreeably varied, for far louder than the "stilly night" rang the wild medical chant, only varied by an occasional hic,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh my name is Jake Keyser," &amp;c.</HI>
198.sgm:<P>This was not to be borne; so turning fiercely on the delinquent Esculapius, Colonel Magruder commanded him to desist from the interruption, and to "thenceforth hold his peace."</P>
198.sgm:<P>With admirable strategy the Doctor backed up against an adjacent fence, where he could deliver himself safely and to advantage, and with most intense dignity replied--"Colonel Magrudger, I'm rofficer of the arry, when I'm ath' Mission, I'm under your orrers; consider se'f so--and--obey 'im; <HI REND="italics">but</HI>
198.sgm:, when I'm down here, sir! serrerading--` <HI REND="italics">Oh, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>277</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>262</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>My last sheet of paper is exhausted, so I presume is your patience.  I have glanced hastily over my work to see if there is anything that Miss Pecksniff may object to; I see nothing.  A little blank swearing, to be sure, but I grieve to say that it is difficult to relate stories without, for since the days of Uncle Toby and the Flanders campaign there is no question but what the army <HI REND="italics">have</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"When other lips and other hearts," &amp;c.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Yours respectfully.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>278</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>279</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>280</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>265</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>PREPARED BY JOHN PHOENIX</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Life and Times of Joseph Bowers the Elder.  Collated from Unpublished Papers of the Late John P. Squibob</HI>
198.sgm:<P>MANY of your readers will doubtless remember to have been occasionally mystified when, struck by the remarkable beauty of some passing female stranger, or by the flashes of wit sparkling from the lips of some gentlemanly unknown, on making the inquiry, "Who is that?" the reply has been given, "Oh, that is one of old Joe Bowers's girls," or boys, as the case may have been; and they will also remember that when about to propound the naturally succeeding question, "Who is Old Joe Bowers?" they have been deterred from so doing by a peculiar smile and an indefinable glance of the eye, approximating to what is vulgarly termed a wink, on the part of their informant.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Such persons, and indeed all who seek to improve <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>281</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>266</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Through the kindness of Messrs.  Hyde and Seekim, of Vallecetos, we have been permitted to glance over the proof-sheets of their forthcoming work, the title of which is given above, and to make therefrom such selections as we may deem sufficient to interest the public in promoting the filial design of the younger Bowers, to transmit the name and virtues of his honored sire to posterity.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Joseph Bowers the elder (or, as he is familiarly known, "Old Joe Bowers"), we learn from this history, was born in Ypsilanti, Washtenaw County, Michigan, on the first day of April, 1776, of "poor but honest parents."  His father, during the troubles of the revolutionary struggle, was engaged in business as a malefactor in western New York, from which part of the country he was compelled to emigrate, by the prejudices and annoyances of the bigoted settlers among whom he had for many years conducted his operations.  Emigrating suddenly, in fact, "with such precipitation," says the narrator, "that my grandfather took nothing with him of his large property but a single shirt, which he happened to have about him at the time he formed his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>282</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>267</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:resolution," he found himself, after a journey of several days of vicissitude and suffering, upon the summit of a hill overlooking a beautiful valley in the fertile State of Michigan.  Struck by the beauty of the surrounding scenery, he leaped from the ground in his enthusiasm, and cracking his heels twice together while in the air ("by which," says the narrator, with much <HI REND="italics">nai&die;vete&acute;</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Our limits will not permit us at present to do more than glance hastily over the stirring incidents in the life of the elder Bowers.  He appears to have been connected in some way with almost every prominent event of the times in which he lived.  We find him a servant and afterward a confidential friend and adviser of General Cass; consulted on matters of religion by General Jackson; an admirer of one of Col. Dick Johnson's daughters (by the way, it was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>283</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>268</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"The author of Idealina."</P>
198.sgm:<P>We may hereafter revert to these incidents in his eventful life; at present, as we before remarked, our limits forbid our enlarging upon them, as we wish to make room for a few extracts from the work, which, exhibiting the great man's manner of thought and expression, will do more toward giving our readers an insight into his character than would pages of his biography--we quote from p. 45, vol. 1:</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>284</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>269</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"My father had been much annoyed by reading certain letters from New York to the Alta California, signed `W.'  The plagiarisms and egotistic remarks of which they were made up disgusted him.  They remind me, he said--expectorating upon the carpet, a habit he had when much offended--of the back of a lady's dress; they are all hooks and I's.  I ventured to ask him, why he did not reply to them?  Sir, said he, making a beautiful adaptation that I have never heard equaled, ` <HI REND="italics">Where impudence is wit, 'tis folly to reply</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Comment is unnecessary; let us proceed, p. 47, vol. 1:</P>
198.sgm:<P>"On arriving at Nevada, we unsaddled and turned out our horses, and taking our saddles and blankets beneath our arms, repaired to the Inn.  My father was exceedingly fatigued by the journey, and hastened to throw himself into the first chair that offered.  As he did so, I thoughtlessly drew the chair from under him, and much to my sorrow and chagrin he fell with great violence upon the floor.  The shock with which he came down discomposed him not a little, and a paper of pump tacks which had fallen from the table and scattered over the floor exactly where he was seated, materially increased his uneasiness.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"I shall not soon forget his indignant reproof.  `Joseph, my son,' said he, `never, never again attempt a practical joke; it is a false, unfeeling, traitorous amusement.  Remember, sir,' said he, as he painfully rose, and reached to the table for a small claw hammer to draw the tacks, `remember the fate of the first practical joker and profit thereby;' I ventured humbly to ask him who this was; `Judas Iscariot,' he replied with bitterness, `he <HI REND="italics">sold</HI>
198.sgm: his <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>285</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>270</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>This is very affecting.  On p. 49 we find the following:</P>
198.sgm:<P>"We were much disturbed during the night by the hoarse braying of a donkey in the stable-yard.  I remarked to my father that he (the donkey) was suffering with a bronchial complaint; and on his inquiring why, replied, that he had an <HI REND="italics">ass-ma</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Very properly, we think.  The following is rather amusing--p. 108, vol. 1:</P>
198.sgm:<P>"After his second interview with Senator Peck, I endeavored to learn from my father the result of his proposal.  `Peck talks a great deal,' said he, `but it is very difficult to tell what he is going to do; or to what <HI REND="italics">side</HI>
198.sgm: he belongs.  In fact I begin to believe he is <HI REND="italics">all talk and no cider</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Precisely the opinion expressed by a number of others.  Turning back to p. 82, vol. 1, we find the following:</P>
198.sgm:<P>"I turned to my father and asked him why it was that women were so frequently robbed by pick-pockets, in public carriages; `they must,' I observed, `be conscious that the rogues are feeling about them.'  `Yes,' he replied, `but <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>286</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>271</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Probably.  Thus much for young Joe.  On taking up the second volume, we find it mainly filled with incidents in the life of the elder Bowers, from the pen of the lamented J. P. Squibob, who, it appears, during his life, contemplated getting up, himself, the work which young Bowers has completed.  We make a few extracts, in which the style of the lamented S. will be readily recognized.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"`No man,' said Bowers, sententiously, `should indulge in more than one bad habit at a time.  If I am a drunkard, it is no reason why I should ruin my character by gambling or licentiousness; or, if I love the ladies inordinately,' and here the old fellow looked indescribably waggish, `why should I add to the enormity by indulging also in cards and liquor?  No,' added he, `one bad habit is enough for any man to indulge in." '</P>
198.sgm:<P>"`And why, Mr. Bowers,' said Jones, `have you given up smoking? '</P>
198.sgm:<P>"`Because I <HI REND="italics">chews</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"Jones pondered a minute, but he couldn't `see it,' and shaking his head musingly, he slowly dispersed."--p. 19.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Mr. Bowers mentioned to me as deserving the commiseration of the charitable and benevolent the distressing case of a journeyman shoemaker <HI REND="italics">who had lost his little awl</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>287</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>272</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The following smacks, to us, slightly of "Jeems":</P>
198.sgm:<P>"It was on a lovely morning in the sweet spring-time, when `two horsemen might have been seen' slowly descending one of the gentle acclivities that environ the picturesque village of San Diego.  It was a bright and sunny day, and the shrubbery and trees around were alive with the harmonious warbling of the feathered songsters of the grove.  `And oh!' sighed the younger of the twain, `would that my existence might be like that of these fair birds--one constant, unwearying dream of love.'  `Aye,' responded the elder, a man of years and of experience, known to the readers of this history as Joseph Bowers the elder, `Aye, my brave youth, they are indeed a happy race, and the spring is to them their happiest season, for they are now engaged in pairing.'</P>
198.sgm:<P>" `And where, my father,' inquired the curious youth, `do they go to pair?'</P>
198.sgm:<P>"` <HI REND="italics">Up into the pear-trees, probably</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>288</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>273</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"The son, with the air of one who has acquired a curious and useful piece of information, rode quietly on, and the silence that ensued was unbroken, but by his asking his parent for the tobacco, until they arrived at the village."--p. 47.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Young Bowers was reading to the author of his existence some passages from Lickspittle's life of General Pierce, of whom (the general, not the author) old Joe is a great admirer.  On arriving at that affecting anecdote of the liberality of the General in bestowing a cent upon a forlorn boy to enable him to purchase candy like his playmates, Bowers commanded his offspring to pause.  Young Joe reverently obeyed.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"`The General,' said Joseph, dogmatically, `should never have mentioned that circumstance, never.'</P>
198.sgm:<P>`"And why, my father?' asked his son.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"`Because,' replied the philosopher, ` <HI REND="italics">Silence gives a cent</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"And acknowledging the application of Scripture by a concurring nod, young Joe resumed his literary labors, and his father the pipe, which he had withdrawn for the enunciation of his sentiments."--p. 81, vol. 2.</P>
198.sgm:<P>With the following exquisite morceau from the pen of old Joe Bowers himself, it being the commencement of a tale, which concludes the book, we must conclude our extracts.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>289</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>274</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The tale is entitled The Dun Filly of Arkansas; or, Thereby Hangs a Tail.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Many a long year ago, when the `Child's Own Book' was all true--when fairies peopled every moonlit glen, and animals enjoyed the power of conversation, in a sequestered dell, beneath the shadow of a mighty oak, upon a carpet of the springiest and most verdant moss, disported a noble horse of Arabian blood, and his snow-white bride, `The Lily of the Prairie.'</P>
198.sgm:<P>"`And oh! my noble lover,' said the Lily, as in playful tenderness she seized and shook between her teeth a lock of his coal-black mane, `may I indeed believe thy vows?  Hast thou forgotten for aye, the dun filly of Arkansas?  And wilt thou ever, ever be faithless to me again?'</P>
198.sgm:<P>"`Nay, dearest,' he replied.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">And she neighed</HI>
198.sgm:<P>From these extracts the reader will get an idea of the nature of the forthcoming work, which we trust will find a place on their center-tables, in their libraries, and reading-rooms.  We subjoin a few notices from the southern press, handed us by Mr. Bowers; the marks in the margin of each having been made with a pencil, probably by himself:</P>
198.sgm:<P>"The most elegant book of the season--with greater attractions for the eye of taste and the enlightened mind than any other."-- <HI REND="italics">Vallecetos Sentinel</HI>
198.sgm:.  $1.25, <HI REND="italics">pd</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"These volumes will have a permanent and increasing value, and will adorn the libraries and center-tables of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>290</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>275</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:American families as long as American literature continues to be read."-- <HI REND="italics">San Isabel Vaquero</HI>
198.sgm:.  $3 <HI REND="italics">pd. for two insertions, and another notice for two bottles of whisky</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"This superb and elegant affair is <HI REND="italics">the</HI>
198.sgm: book of the season unquestionably."-- <HI REND="italics">Penasquitas Picaron.  4s. two drinks, and invited him to dinner</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"The typography of these volumes is all that could be desired.  Nothing superior to it has been issued from the American Press.  Bowers will be among American classics what Goldsmith is among those of Fatherland.  It is an elegant edition of the works of our foremost writer in the <HI REND="italics">belles lettres</HI>
198.sgm: department of literature."-- <HI REND="italics">Soledad Filibuster</HI>
198.sgm:.  $5, <HI REND="italics">drink, string of fish, and half-pig when I kill</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>291</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>292</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>PHOENIX AT BENICIA</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>293</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>294</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>279</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PHOENIX AT BENICIA</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>BENICIA, Cal., 10th June, 1855.</P>
198.sgm:<P>I OBSERVED your pathetic inquiry as to my whereabouts.  I'm all right, sir.  I have been vegetating for two or three weeks in this sweet (scented) place, enjoying myself, after a manner, in "a tranquil cot, in a pleasant spot, with a distant view of the changing sea."  Howbeit, Benicia is not a Paradise.  Indeed, I am inclined to think that had Adam and Eve been originally placed here, the human race would never have been propagated.  It is my impression that the heat, and the wind, and some other little Benician accidents, would have been too much for them.  It would have puzzled them, moreover, to disobey their instructions, for there is no Tree of Knowledge, or any other kind, in Benicia; but if they had managed this, what, in the absence of figleaves, would they have done for clothing?  Maybe tule would have answered the purpose--there's plenty of that.  I remarked to my old friend, Miss Wiggins, the other day, in a conversation on Benicia, its advantages and its drawbacks, that there was not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>295</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:much society here.  "Wal," replied the old lady, "thar's <HI REND="italics">two</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Dr. Tushmaker was never regularly bred as a physician or surgeon, but he possessed naturally a strong mechanical genius and a fine appetite; and finding his teeth of great service in gratifying the latter propensity, he concluded that he could do more good in the world and create more real happiness therein by putting the teeth of its inhabitants in good order than in any other way; so Tushmaker became a dentist.  He was the man that first invented the method of placing small cog-wheels in the back teeth for the more perfect mastication of food, and he claimed to be the original discoverer of that method of filling cavities with a kind of putty, which, becoming hard directly, causes the tooth to ache so grievously that it has to be pulled, thereby giving the dentist two successive fees for the same job.  Tushmaker was one day seated in his office, in the city of Boston, Massachusetts, when a stout old fellow named Byles presented himself to have a back tooth drawn.  The dentist seated his patient in the chair of torture, and opening his mouth, discovered there an enormous tooth, on the right-hand side, about as large, as he afterward expressed it, "as a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>296</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:small Polyglot Bible."  I shall have trouble with this tooth, thought Tushmaker, but he clapped on his heaviest forceps, and pulled.  It didn't come.  Then he tried the turn-screw, exerting his utmost strength, but the tooth wouldn't stir.  "Go away from here," said Tushmaker to Byles, "and return in a week, and I'll draw that tooth for you, or know the reason why.  Byles got up, clapped a handkerchief to his jaw, and put forth.  Then the dentist went to work, and in three days he invented an instrument which he was confident would pull anything.  It was a combination of the lever, pulley, wheel and axle, inclined plane, wedge, and screw.  The castings were made, and the machine put up in the office, over an iron chair, rendered perfectly stationary by iron rods going down into the foundations of the granite building.  In a week old Byles returned; he was clamped into the iron chair, the forceps connected with the machine attached firmly to the tooth, and Tushmaker, stationing himself in the rear, took hold of a lever four feet in length.  He turned it slightly.  Old Byles gave a groan, and lifted his right leg.  Another turn; another groan, and up went the leg again.  "What do you raise your leg for?" asked the doctor.  "I can't help it," said the patient.  "Well," rejoined Tushmaker, "that tooth is bound to come now."  He turned the lever clear round, with a <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>297</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0054" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>"WHAT DO YOU RAISE YOUR LEG FOR."</P>
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198.sgm:sudden jerk, and snapped old Byles's head clean and clear from his shoulders, leaving a space of four inches between the severed parts!  They had a <HI REND="italics">postmortem</HI>
198.sgm: examination--the roots of the tooth were found extending down the right side, through the right leg, and turning up in two prongs under the sole of the right foot!  "No wonder," said Tushmaker, "he raised his right leg."  The jury thought so, too, but they found the roots much decayed, and five surgeons swearing that mortification would have ensued in a few months, Tushmaker was cleared on a verdict of "justifiable homicide."  He was a little shy of that instrument for some time afterward; but one day an old lady, feeble and flaccid, came in to have a tooth drawn, and thinking it would come out very easy, Tushmaker concluded, just by way of variety, to try the machine.  He did so, and at the first turn drew the old lady's skeleton completely and entirely from her body, leaving her a mass of quivering jelly in her chair!  Tushmaker took her home in a pillow-case.  She lived seven years after that, and they called her the "India-Rubber Woman."  She had suffered terribly with the rheumatism, but after this occurrence never had a pain in her bones.  The dentist kept them in a glass case.  After this, the machine was sold to the contractor of the Boston Custom-House, and it was found that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>299</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>The following maritime anecdote was related to me by a small man in a pea-jacket and sou'wester hat, who had salt standing in crusts all over his face.  When I asked him if it were true, he replied, "The jib-sheet's a rope, and the helm's a tiller."  I guess it's all right.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Many years ago, on a stormy and inclement evening, "in the bleak December," old Miss Tarbox, accompanied by her niece, Mary Ann Stackpole, sailed from Holmes's Hole to Cotuit, in the topsail schooner Two Susans, Captain Blackler.  "The rains descended, and the floods came, and the winds blew and beat upon" that schooner, and great was the tossing and pitching thereof; while Captain Blackler and his hardy crew "kept her to it," and old Miss Tarbox and her niece rolled about in their uncomfortable bunks, wishing themselves back in Holmes's Hole, or any other hole, on the dry land.  The shouts <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>300</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:of Captain Blackler, as he trod the deck, conveying orders for "tacking ship," were distinctly audible to the afflicted females below; and "Oh!" groaned old Miss Tarbox, during a tranquil interval of her internal economy, as for the fifteenth time the schooner "went in stays," "what a drefful time them pore creeturs of sailors is a having on't.  Just listen to Jim Blackler, Mary Ann, and hear how he is ordering about that pore fellow, <HI REND="italics">Hardy Lee</HI>
198.sgm:.  I've heerd that creetur hollered for twenty times this blessed night, if I have onst."  "Yes," replied the wretched Mary Ann, as she gave a fearful retch to starboard, "but he ain't no worse off than poor <HI REND="italics">Taupsle Hall</HI>
198.sgm: --he seems to ketch it as bad as Gardy."  "I wonder who they be," mused old Miss Tarbox; "I knowed a Miss Hall, that lived at Seekonk Pint oncet--mebbe it's her son."  A tremendous sea taking the Two Susans on her quarter at this instant, put a stop to the old lady's cogitations; but they had an awful night of it--and still above the roaring of the wind, the whistling and clashing of the shrouds, the dash of the sea, and the tramp of the sailors, was heard the voice of stout Captain Blackler as he shouted, "Stations!  <HI REND="italics">Hard</HI>
198.sgm: a lee!  <HI REND="italics">Top</HI>
198.sgm: 'sle haul!  Let go and haul,"--and the Two Susans went about.  And, as old Miss Tarbox remarked years afterward, when she and Mary Ann had discovered their mistake <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>301</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>Circumstances over which I have no control will soon call me to a residence in Washington Territory, a beautiful and fertile field of usefulness, named for the "Father of his Country," who, I am led to understand, was "first in peace, first in war, and first in the hearts of his countrymen."  As the Kentuckian remarked, "I may be heered on again, but I stand about as much chance as a bar going to--the infernal regions (not to put too fine a point on it) without any claws."  Before I go, however, I will endeavor to give you a little history of the rise, progress, and decline of " <HI REND="italics">My San Diego Lawsuit</HI>
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198.sgm:<P>LECTURES ON ASTRONOMY</P>
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198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>LECTURES ON ASTRONOMY</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>CORRESPONDENCE</P>
198.sgm:<P>SAN FRANCISCO, Oct. 10, 1860.</P>
198.sgm:<P>TO PROFESSOR JOHN PHOENIX, ESQ., San Diego Observatory.</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Dear Sir</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Very truly yours,</P>
198.sgm:<P>A. SLEEK STIGGINS,</P>
198.sgm:<P><HI REND="italics">Ruling Elder and Agent for the sale of Stiggin's Elder Blow Tea</HI>
198.sgm:<P>PROFESSOR PHOENIX has the honor to acknowledge the receipt of Mr. Stiggins's polite communication, and regrets to inform him that the organ alluded to has been disposed of to a member of the Turn-verein Association.  Owing to some " <HI REND="italics">fatuity or crookedness of mind</HI>
198.sgm: " on the part of the manufacturer, the organ never could be made to play but one tune, "The Low Backed Car," which Professor Phoenix considers a most sad and plaintive melody, calculated to fill the mind with serious and melancholy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>305</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>LECTURES ON ASTRONOMY--PART II</P>
198.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I</P>
198.sgm:<P>MARS</P>
198.sgm:<P>This planet may be easily recognized by its bright, ruddy appearance, and its steady light.  It resembles in size and color the stars Arcturus, in Boo&die;tes, and Antares, in Scorpio; but, as it is not, like them, continually winking, we may consider it, in some respects, a body of superior gravity.  Our readers will be pleased to learn that Mars is an oblate spheroid, with a diameter of 4,222 miles.  It is seven times smaller than the Earth; its day is forty-four minutes longer than ours, and its year is equal to twenty-two and a half of our months.  It receives from the sun only one-half as much light and heat as the Earth, and has no moon; which, in some respects, may be considered a blessing, as the poets of Mars can not be eternally writing sonnets on that subject.  Mars takes its name from the God of War, who was considered the patron of soldiers, usually <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>306</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>Mars is also the tutelary divinity of Filibusters, and we are informed by several of the late troops of the late President William Walker that this planet was of great use in guiding that potentate during his late nocturnal rambles through the late Republic of Sonora.  The ruddy appearance of Mars is not attributed to his former bad habits, but to the great height of his atmosphere, which must be very favorable to the aeronauts of that region, where, doubtless, ballooning is the principal method of locomotion.  Upon the whole, Mars is but a cold and ill-conditioned planet, and if, as some persons believe, the souls of deceased soldiers are sent thither, there can be little inducement to die in service, unless, indeed, larger supplies of commissary whisky and tobacco are to be found there than the present telescopic observations would lead us to believe.</P>
198.sgm:<P>JUPITER</P>
198.sgm:<P>This magnificent planet is the largest body, excepting the Sun, in the Solar System.  "It may be <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>307</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>292</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>In consequence of the rapid movement of Jupiter upon his axis, his form is that of an oblate spheroid, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>308</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>These hoops, usually termed belts, are plainly visible through the telescope.  They are eight in number, and are supposed to be made of gutta-percha, with an outer edge of No. 1 boiler iron.  Owing to the great distance of Jupiter from the Sun, he receives but one twenty-seventh part of the light and heat that we do from that body.  To preserve the great balance of Nature, it is therefore probable that the whales of Jupiter are twenty-seven times larger than ours, and that twenty-seven times as much cord-wood is cut on that planet as on the Earth.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The axis of Jupiter is perpendicular to the plane of its orbit; hence its climate has no variation of seasons in the same latitude.  It has four moons, three of which may be readily discerned with an ordinary spy-glass.  By observation on the eclipses of these satellites, the velocity of light has been measured, and we find that light is precisely eight minutes and thirteen seconds in coming to us from the Sun.  According to the poet, "the light of other days" has a considerably slow motion.  Jupiter, in the Heathen <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>309</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:Mythology, was the King of the Gods.  As there can be no doubt that, with the progress of time, advancement in liberal ideas, and a knowledge of the immortal principles of democracy has obtained among these divinities, it is probable that he has long since been deposed, and his kingdom converted into a republic, over whose destinies, according to the well-known principles of availability, some one-eyed Cyclops, unknown to fame, has probably been elected to preside.  His representative will, however, always remain King of the Planets while such things as kings exist; after which he will become their undisputed president.  Jupiter is the patron of Monarchs, Presidents, and Senators.  It is doubtful, however, whether he pays much attention to State Senators, or even continues his patronage to him of the Congressional body who fails to be reelected, although bent on being notorious he may continue to vociferate that he "knows a hawk from a hand-saw," and was "not educated at West <HI REND="italics">Pint</HI>
198.sgm:<P>SATURN</P>
198.sgm:<P>Whoever, during the present year, has had his attention attracted by that beautiful group, the Pleiades, or Seven Stars, may have noticed near them, in the constellation Taurus, a star apparently of the first magnitude, shining with a peculiarly <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>310</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:white light, and beaming down with a gentle, steady radiance upon the Earth.  This is the beautiful planet Saturn, which, moving slowly at the rate of two minutes daily among the stars, may be readily traced from one constellation to another.  Saturn is nearly nine hundred millions of miles from the Sun.  His volume is eleven hundred times that of the Earth; and while his year is equivalent to twenty-nine and a half of ours, his day is shorter by more than one-half.  Receiving but one-nineteenth part of the light from the Sun that we do, it follows that the inhabitants of Saturn are not equally enlightened with us; and supposing them to be physically constituted as we are, stoves and cooking-ranges undoubtedly go off at a ready sale and pretty high figure among them.  Saturn differs from all the other planets, in being surrounded by three rings, consecutive to each other, which shine by reflection from the Sun, with superior brilliancy to the planet itself.  It is also attended by eight satellites.  Many theories have been started to account for the rings of Saturn, but none of them is satisfactory.  Our own opinion is that this planet was originally diversified, like the Earth, with continents of land and vast oceans of water.  By the rapid motion of the planet upon its axis, the oceans were collected near the equatorial regions, whence, by the immense centrifugal force, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>311</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>The ships floating on the surface of the waters at the time of this great convulsion, of course, went with them, and it is a most painful reflection to the humane mind that their crews have undoubtedly long since perished, after maintaining for a while their miserably isolated existence on a precarious supply of fish.</P>
198.sgm:<P>It is a curious and interesting fact, much dwelt on in popular treatises on Astronomy, that were a cannon-ball fired from the Earth to Saturn it would be one hundred and eighty years in getting there.  The only useful deduction that we are able to make from this fact, however, is, that the inhabitants of Saturn, if warned of their danger by the sight of the flash or the sound of the explosion, would have ample opportunity in the course of one hundred and eighty years to dodge the shot!</P>
198.sgm:<P>Saturn was the father of all the Heathen Divinities, and, we regret to say, was a most disreputable character.  It will hardly be credited that he had a revolting habit of devouring his children shortly after their birth, and it was only by a pious deception <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>312</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>HERSCHEL</P>
198.sgm:<P>We know little of this planet, except that, with its six moons, it was discovered by Dr. Herschel, a native of the island of England (situated on the northwest coast of Europe), in 1781.  It was named by him the "Georgium Sidus," as a tribute of respect to a miserable, blind, old lunatic, who at that time happened to be king of the Island.  Overlooking the sycophancy of the man, in their admiration for the services of the Astronomer, his philosophical contemporaries renamed the planet Herschel, by which title it is still known.  An attempt made by the courtiers of the English king to call it <HI REND="italics">Uranus</HI>
198.sgm: (a Latin expression, meaning "You reign over us"), happily failed to succeed.  Herschel is supposed to be about eighty times larger than the Earth, and to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>313</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>NEPTUNE</P>
198.sgm:<P>Was discovered by a French gentleman, named Le Verrier, in 1846.  It is supposed to be about forty thousand miles in diameter, and to have a period of one hundred and sixty-four years.  But of this planet, and another still more remote from the Sun, lately discovered (to which the literati and <HI REND="italics">savants</HI>
198.sgm: of Europe propose to give the name of <HI REND="italics">Squibob</HI>
198.sgm:, a Hebrew word, signifying, " <HI REND="italics">There you go, with your eye out</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Neptune is the God of the Sea, an unpleasant element, full of disagreeable fish, horrible sea-lions, and equivocal serpents, the reflection on which, or some other reasons, generally makes everyone sick who ventures upon it.  He married a Miss Amphitrite, who, unlike sailors' wives in general, usually accompanies her husband on all his voyages.  Neptune is the tutelar deity of seamen, who generally allude to him as "Davy Jones," and speak of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>314</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>THE ASTEROIDS</P>
198.sgm:<P>These are ten small planets, revolving about the Sun in different orbits, situated between those of Mars and Jupiter.  They can seldom be seen without a powerful telescope; and are of no great importance when you see them.  Our friend, Dr. Olbers, who paid much attention to these little bodies, is of the opinion that they are fragments of a large celestial sphere which formerly revolved between Mars and Jupiter, and which, by some mighty internal convulsion, burst into pieces.  With this opinion we coincide.  What caused the explosion, how many lives were lost, and whether blame could be attached to anyone on account of it, are circumstances that we shall probably remain in as profound ignorance of as the unfortunate inhabitants of the planet found themselves after the occurrence.  What purpose the Asteroids now serve in the great economy of the Universe it is impossible to ascertain; it may be that they are reserved as receptacles for the departed souls of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>315</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:ruined merchants and broken brokers.  As the Spaniard profoundly remarks, " <HI REND="italics">Quien Sabe?</HI>
198.sgm:<P>CHAPTER II</P>
198.sgm:<P>OF THE FIXED STARS</P>
198.sgm:<P>For convenience of description, Astronomers have divided the entire surface of the Heavens into numerous small tracts, called constellations, to which have been given names resulting from some real or fancied resemblance in the arrangement of the stars composing them to the objects indicated.  This resemblance is seldom very striking, but nomenclature is arbitrary, and it is perhaps quite as well to call a collection of stars that don't look at all like a scorpion "The Scorpion" as to name an insignificant village, with two or three hundred inhabitants, a tavern, no church, and twenty-seven grog-shops Rome or Carthage.  We once knew a couple of honest people who named their eldest child (a singularly pugnosed little girl) MADONNA, <HI REND="italics">Madonna</HI>
198.sgm:<P>A zone 16&deg; in breadth, extending quite around the Heavens, 8&deg; on each side of the Ecliptic, is called Zodiac.</P>
198.sgm:<P>This zone is divided into twelve equal parts or constellations, which are sometimes called the Signs <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>316</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>1.  Aries<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Hydraulic Ram</HI>
198.sgm:<P>2.  Taurus<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Irish Bull</HI>
198.sgm:<P>3.  Gemini<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Siamese Twins</HI>
198.sgm:<P>4.  Cancer<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Soft Shelled Crab</HI>
198.sgm:<P>5.  Leo<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Dandy Lion</HI>
198.sgm:<P>6.  Virgo<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Virago</HI>
198.sgm:<P>7.  Libra<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Hay Scales</HI>
198.sgm:<P>8.  Scorpio<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The N.Y. Herald</HI>
198.sgm:<P>9.  Sagittarius<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Sparrow</HI>
198.sgm:<P>10.  Capricornus<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Bishop</HI>
198.sgm:<P>11.  Aquarius<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Decanter</HI>
198.sgm:<P>12.  Pisces<HSEP><HI REND="italics">The Sardines</HI>
198.sgm:<P>To discover the position of these several constellations, it is merely necessary to have a starting point.  On looking at the Heavens during the month of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>317</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>Still farther east rises Libra, distinguished by two rather bright stars forming a parallelogram, with two rather dim ones, followed by Scorpio, whose stars resemble in their arrangement a kite with a tail to it, and in which a brilliant red star, named Antares, forms the center.  Then Sagittarius and Capricornus separately span 30&deg;; when rises Aquarius, in which the most careless observer will notice four stars, forming very plainly the letter Y.  Pisces, a loose, straggling succession of stars, intervenes between this sign and that of Aries, which may be distinguished by two bright stars, about 4&deg; apart, the brightest to the N.E. of the other.  Taurus can not be mistaken--it contains two remarkable clusters, the Pleiades and the Hyades, the latter forming a well-marked letter V, with the bright red star Aldebaran at the upper left-hand corner.  Gemini contains two remarkably bright stars, Castor and Pollux;--the former much the most brilliant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>318</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>The fixed stars are classed according to their magnitude, first, second, third, fourth, fifth, etc.; the stars of the fifth magnitude being the smallest that can be seen by the unassisted eye.  It is by no means our intention, in this course of lectures, to convey a complete and thorough knowledge of Uranography (we assure you, madam, that this word is in the Dictionary); however great our ability or inclination, the limits prescribed us will not permit of it; we shall, therefore, confine ourselves to a brief description of the principal constellations, trusting that the interest awakened in the minds of our numerous readers on the subject by our remarks may lead them to make it a study hereafter.  For this purpose we would recommend as a suitable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>319</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>"The Great Bear" (which is spelled B-e-a-r and has no reference whatever to Powers's Greek Slave) is one of the most remarkable constellations in the Heavens.  We can not imagine why it received its name, unless, indeed, because it has not the slightest resemblance to a great Bear or any other animal.  It may be distinguished by means of a cluster of seven brilliant stars, arranged in the form of a dipper (not a <HI REND="italics">duck</HI>
198.sgm:, but a <HI REND="italics">tin</HI>
198.sgm: dipper).  Of these, the two forming the side of the dipper farthest from the handle are named, the lower <HI REND="italics">Merak</HI>
198.sgm:, the upper <HI REND="italics">Dubhe</HI>
198.sgm:, and are called the <HI REND="italics">Pointers</HI>
198.sgm:, from the fact that in whatever position the constellation is observed, a line passing through these two stars and continued in the direction of <HI REND="italics">Dubhe</HI>
198.sgm: for 28&deg; passes through <HI REND="italics">Cynosura</HI>
198.sgm:, the North or pole star.  To this remarkable star--it was discovered some years since--a magnetic needle will constantly point, a discovery which has done more for commerce, made more <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>320</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>Near Cassiopeia, but farther to the E., we find Andromeda, which constellation, representing a young lady, chained to a rock, without a particle of clothing, we shall not attempt to point out more definitely.  Perseus, near Andromeda, holds in his hand the head of Medusa, a glance from whose eyes turned the gazer into stone, which accounts for the origin of the Stones, a numerous and highly respectable family in the United States.  If we prolong the handle of the dipper some 25&deg;, we observe a brilliant <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>321</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>The beautiful constellation Orion (which takes its name from the founder of the celebrated Irish family of O'Ryan), may be easily distinguished by its belt, three bright stars, forming a right line about 3&deg; in length; with three smaller stars immediately below (forming an angle with it), which distinguish the handle of the sword.  The brilliant star of the first magnitude, in the left shoulder of Orion, is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>322</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:called Betelguesse, that in the right shoulder, Bellatrix; the star in the right knee is Saiph, that in the left foot, Rigel.  Some 20&deg; N.E. of the seven stars the brilliant star Capella, in the Wagoner, may be recognized by three small stars, forming an acute-angled triangle, immediately below it.  A very beautiful star, of peculiarly whitish luster, named Formalhaut, forms the eye of the Southern Fish; it is about 30&deg; S.E. of the Y in Aquarius, and can not be mistaken, as it is the only brilliant star in that part of the Heavens.  We have now mentioned most of the principal constellations, but we suspect that the ardent curiosity and love of research of our readers will hardly allow them to rest contented with the meager information thus conveyed, but that they will hasten to seek, in the writings of standard authors, such a knowledge of this interesting subject as the scope of these lectures will not permit us to attempt imparting.  They will thus find the truth of Hamlet's statement, "that more things exist in Heaven and Earth than are dreamed of" in their philosophy.  Dragons, Hydras, Serpents and Centaurs, Big Dogs and Little Dogs, Doves, Coons, and Ladies' Hair will be exhibited to their admiring gaze, and they will also have their attention directed to the remarkable constellation Phoenix (named for an ancestor of the present Johannes, but not in the least resembling <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>323</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>308</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The lecture now closes, with an exhibition of the " <HI REND="italics">Phantasmagoria</HI>
198.sgm: " (which is the scientific name of a tin Magic Lantern), showing the various Heavenly Bodies tranquilly revolving round the Sun, perfectly undisturbed by the extravagant motions of these rampant comets continually crossing their paths in orbits of impossible eccentricity, while the organ, slowly turned by the Professor with one hand (the other imparting motion to the planets), emits in plaintive tones that touching melody the Low Backed Car, giving an excruciating and probably correct idea of the "Music of the Spheres," which nobody ever heard, and, therefore, the correctness of the imitation can not be disputed.  This portion of the entertainment should be continued as long as possible, as the author has observed it never fails to give great satisfaction to the audience; any exhibition requiring a darkened room being a "sure card" of attraction in a community where there are <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>324</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>309</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:many young people, which accounts for the wonderful success of Banvard's Panorama.  Should the Professor's arm become wearied before the audience are entirely satisfied, it is easy to disperse them, by the simple process of shutting down the slide, stopping the organ, and inducing a small boy, by a trifling pecuniary compensation, to holla <HI REND="italics">Fire</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The author acknowledges the receipt of An Astronomical Poem from a "Young Observer," commencing</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Oh, if I had a telescope with fourteen slides,"</P>
198.sgm:<P>with the modest request that he would "introduce" it in his second lecture; but the detestable attempt of the "Young Observer" to make "slides" rhyme with "Pleiades" in the second line, and the fearful pun in the thirty-seventh verse, on "the Meteor by moonlight alone," compel him to decline the introduction.  The manuscript will be returned to the author, on making known his real name, and engaging to destroy it immediately.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>325</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>326</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>A LEGEND OF THE TEHAMA HOUSE</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>327</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>328</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>313</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A LEGEND OF THE TEHAMA HOUSE</HEAD>
198.sgm:<P>CHAPTER I</P>
198.sgm:<P>IT was evening at the Tehama.  The apothecary, whose shop formed the southeastern corner of that edifice, had lighted his lamps, which, shining through those large glass bottles in the window, filled with red and blue liquors, once supposed by this author, when young and innocent, to be medicine of the most potent description, lit up the faces of the passers-by with an unearthly glare, and exaggerated the general redness and blueness of their noses.  Within the office the hands of the octagonal clock, which looked as though it had been thrown against the wall in a moist state and stuck there, pointed to the hour of eight.  The apartment was nearly deserted.  Frink, "the courteous and gentlemanly manager," and the Major, had gone to the Theater; having season tickets, they felt themselves forced to attend, and never missed a performance.  The coal-fire in the office-stove glowed with a hospitable warmth, emitting a gentle murmur of welcome to the expected wayfarers by the Sacramento boats, interrupted only by an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>329</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>314</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Behind the office-desk, perched on a high, three-legged stool, his head supported by both hands, the youthful but literary John Duncan was deeply engaged in the exciting perusal of the last yellow-covered novel, Blood for Blood; or, The Infatuated Dog.  He knew that, in a few moments, eighty-four gentlemen, "in hot haste," would call to inquire whether the Member of Congress had returned, and was anxious to find out what the "Robber Chieftain" did with the "Lady Maude Alleyne" before the arrival of the Sacramento boat.  The only other occupant of the office was a short, fleshy gentleman, with a white hat, dark-green coat with brass buttons, drab pantaloons, short, punchy little boots, and gaiters.</P>
198.sgm:<P>These circumstances might be noted as he stood <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>330</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>315</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>As he turned from this employment he exhibited one of the most curious faces it is possible to conceive.  Unlike most fat men, whose little eyes, round, red cheeks, wart-like noses, and double chins convey but little meaning or expression, this gentleman's face was all expression.  He wore a constant look of the most intense curiosity.  Inquisitiveness sat upon every lineament of his countenance.  His small, green eyes protruding from his head, surmounted by thin but well-defined and very curvilinear eyebrows, looked like two notes of interrogation; his nose, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>331</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>316</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>His name was Bogle, and with Mrs. Bogle, whom he had married two years before, because, having exhausted all other subjects of inquiry in conversation with her, he had finally asked her if she would have him, and a little Bogle, who had made its appearance some three months since, and already "took notice" with an inquiring air painful to contemplate, he occupied, for the present, "Room No. 31."</P>
198.sgm:<P>Bogle would have made a fortune in no time if he had lived in the blessed era when the promise "Ask and ye shall receive" was fulfilled; and so well was his disposition understood by the frequenters of the Tehama, that they invariably left the vicinity when he looked askant at them; his presence cleared the room as quickly as a stream from a fireengine, or a mad dog, could have done it.  Brushing some remains of snuff from his snow-white vest--Bogle took snuff inordinately; he said it sharpened <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>332</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>317</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"What time will the boat be in?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"In a few moments, Mr. Bogle."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Will the General come down to-night?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"I don't know, Mr. Bogle."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"How old a man do you take him to be now?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Fontaine she screamed!--that is, I don't know, Mr. Bogle."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"How much does he weigh?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"The skeleton!--indeed, I don't know, sir."</P>
198.sgm:<P>The conversation was here suspended by the sudden arrival of a stranger.  He was a large man, of stern and forbidding aspect, exceedingly dark complexion, with long, black hair hanging in unkempt tangles about his shoulders, and with a fierce and uncompromising mustache and beard, blacker than the driven charcoal, completely concealing the lower part of his face.  His dress was singular; a brown hat, brown coat, brown vest, brown neck-cloth, brown pantaloons, brown gaiter-boots.  In his hand he carried a brown carpet-bag, and beneath his arm a brown silk umbrella.  Hastily he inscribed his name upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>333</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>318</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<illus entity="a198-0057" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>GENERAL BROWN.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>334</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>319</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:the Register, "General Tecumseh Brown, Brownsville," and, for an instant, seemed to fall into a brown study.  Bogle was on the <HI REND="italics">qui vive</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"From Sacramento, sir?" said he.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The General gazed at Bogle sternly for a moment, and replied, "I am, sir."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"I see, sir," said Bogle, with a cordial smile, "you live in Brownsville; may I inquire if you are in business there?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>The General gazed at Bogle more sternly than before, and shortly answered, "You may, sir."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Well," said Bogle, "are you?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir," replied General Brown, in a stentorian voice, at the same time advancing a step toward his fat little inquisitor.  "I have lately made a fortune there."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Oh!" said Bogle, nimbly jumping back as the General advanced.  "How?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">By minding my own business, sir!</HI>
198.sgm:<P>So saying, and grasping the key extended to him, General Brown turned away, and, casting a look of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>335</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>320</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"Well," said Bogle, "of all the Brown--where did you put him, John?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"No. 32," replied that individual, returning to "the cave."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Thirty-two!"  exclaimed Bogle.  "Goodness! Gracious! why, that joins my room, and the partition is as thin as a wafer."</P>
198.sgm:<P>CHAPTER II</P>
198.sgm:<P>Up-stairs went Bogle, two steps at a time.  The door of thirty-two slammed as he reached the door of his apartment; it slammed on a brown coat-tail, about half a yard of which remained on the outside; there was a muttered ejaculation, then a deep growl, and--rip! went the coat-tail, the fragment remaining in the door.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Gracious!  Goodness!" said Bogle, "what a passionate man! he's torn it off! he's like Halley's comet; no! that never had a tail; he's like that fox,"--and Bogle entered his apartment.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Here sat his interesting wife, rocking their offspring, and instilling into its infant mind the first <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>336</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>321</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"Buy low, Baby; buy low, buy low."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Hush!" said Bogle, as he entered on tiptoe, and, carefully closing the door of thirty-one, held up a warning finger to the partner of his joys and sorrows.  The lullaby ceased.  It is said that all women  become like their husbands after a certain time, both in appearance and disposition.  Mrs. Bogle, who had been a Miss Artemesia Stackpole before marriage (Bogle said she was named for and elder sister, Mesia, who died, and she was called Arter-mesia), certainly did not at all resemble her husband in appearance.  She was of the thread-paper order; one of those gaunt, bony females of no particular age, who always have two false eye-teeth, and wear brown merino dresses and muslin nightcaps with a cotton lace border in the morning.  But in disposition she was his very counterpart.  Curious, meddling, inquisitive, fond of gossip, and indefatigable in "the pursuit of knowledge under difficulties," she was an invaluable coadjutor to Bogle, whom she had materially assisted many times in obtaining information that even his prying nature had failed to accomplish.  Eagerly she listened to his tale about the mysterious Brown and <HI REND="italics">his</HI>
198.sgm: tail, and, like a good and dutiful wife, all quietly she nursed the olive branch, while Bogle, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>337</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>322</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>Three times in as many quarters of an hour did that mysterious General ring the bell; three times came up the waiter; three times he replied to the General's anxious question, "that no one had called for him," and three times he went down again.  After each interview with the waiter, Bogle, listening at the partition, heard the General mutter to himself a large word, a scriptural word, but not adapted to common conversation; it began with a capital D and ended with a small n.  Each time that he heard it Bogle said "Gracious! Goodness!"  At length his patient exertions were rewarded.  As the clock struck ten a step was heard upon the stairs; nearer and nearer it came.  Bogle's heart beat heavily; it stopped in front of "thirty-two";--he held his breath;--a knock;--the General's voice, "Come in";--he heard the door open, and the stranger commence with "Good evening, General," but before he could say "Brown," that gentleman exclaimed, "Charles, <HI REND="italics">have</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Bogle, his ear glued to the wall, turned his eye toward his wife and beckoned.  Artemesia approached, and seating herself on his knee, the infant clasped to her breast, listened with her husband.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>338</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>323</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>The stranger slowly replied, "I have."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"And who was she with?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"That Frenchman, as you supposed."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Good God!" exclaimed the stricken Brown, as in agony he paced the room with fearful strides.  There was a moment's silence.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Did you take her from him?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Yes, I persuaded her to accompany me to my room at `The Union.'"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Why did you not bring her to me at once?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"I knew your passionate nature, General, and I feared you would kill her."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"<HI REND="italics">I will!</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Bogle, his face pallid with apprehension, his teeth chattering with fear, looked at Artemesia;--she met his horror-stricken gaze, and, with a subdued shriek, clasped the baby;--it awoke.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The General, in a low, deep voice of concentrated passion, continued: "I'll poison her, Charles!"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Oh!" he exclaimed, with deep emotion, "how I have loved that--"</P>
198.sgm:<P>Here the infant Bogle, who had been drawing in his breath for a cry, broke forth;--"At once there rose so wild a yell."  Human nature could not stand it longer.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>339</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>324</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"Smother that little villain!" said Bogle, in a fierce whisper; "I can't hear a word."</P>
198.sgm:<P>Artemesia, with the look of Lucretia Borgia, withdrew with the child to the adjoining room (No. 31, Tehama, contains two rooms, a small parlor and a bedchamber), and administered a punishment that must have astonished it--it was certainly <HI REND="italics">struck aback</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"Bring her up with you at ten o'clock to-morrow evening, and a sack; after it is over, we will put her body in it, and carry her to Meiggs's wharf, where there are plenty of brick; we can fill the sack with them and throw her off."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Well, sir," replied the stranger, "if you are determined to do it, I will; but poor Fanny!"--here emotion choked his utterance.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"You do as I tell you, sir," growled the General; "there's no weakness about me!"  Here the door opened and closed.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Bogle rose from his knees, the perspiration was running down his fat face in streams.--"No <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>340</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>325</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>That night, in a whispered consultation with his Artemesia, Bogle's plan of action was decided upon.  But long after this, and long after the horror-stricken pair had sunk into a perturbed slumber, the footsteps of the intended murderer might have been heard, as hour after hour he paced the floor of his solitary chamber, and his deep voice might have been heard also, occasionally giving vent to his fell determination--"Yes, <HI REND="italics">sir!</HI>
198.sgm:<P>CHAPTER III</P>
198.sgm:<P>The next morning a great change might have been observed in our friend Bogle.  He appeared unusually quiet and reserved--pallid and nervous;--starting when anyone approached him, he stood alone near the door of the Tehama; he sought no companionship--he asked no questions.  Men marveled thereat.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"What has come over Bogle?" said the Judge to the Major.  "I haven't heard him ask a question to-day."</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Well," was the unfeeling reply, "he's been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>341</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>326</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>But Bogle knew what he was about.  At three P.M. precisely, General Brown came majestically down-stairs; he passed Bogle so nearly that he could have touched him; but he noticed not the latter's shuddering withdrawal; he looked neither to the right nor to the left, but, gloomy and foreboding, like an avenging genius, he passed into the apothecary's on the corner.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Give me an ounce bottle of strychnine," said he.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"For rats, sir?" said the polite attendant.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The General started; he gave a fearful scowl.  "Yes," he said, with a demoniac laugh, "for rats! ha! ha! oh, yes--for--rats!"</P>
198.sgm:<P>Bogle heard this;--he heard no more; he started for the Police Office.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Who was Fanny?--??--????!--?--??--???</P>
198.sgm:<P>That evening about ten o'clock Bogle sat alone, or alone save his Artemesia, in No. 31.  The baby had been put to bed, and silent and solemn in that dark apartment, for the lamp had been extinguished, sat listening that shuddering pair.  A step was heard on the stairs, and closer drew the Bogles together, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>342</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>327</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>As it drew near, it was evident that two persons were approaching; for accompanying the first distinct tread was a light footfall like that of a young and tender female.  "Poor thing!" said Artemesia, with a suppressed gasp.  The heavy tread of General Brown could be heard distinctly in No. 32.  The parties stopped at his door;--a knock, and they were silently admitted.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The voice of the General broke the silence--"Oh, Fanny," he exclaimed, in bitter anguish, "how could you desert me!"  There was no articulate reply, but the Bogles heard from the unhappy female an expression of grief which almost broke their hearts.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Fanny," continued the General, "you have been faithless to me--fickle and false as your sex invariably are!  I loved you, Fanny--I love you still!--but my heart can no more be made the sport of falsehood!  You must die!  Take this!"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Hold--wretch!" shouted Bogle.  "Let me go, Artemesia," and throwing off his coat, the heroic little fellow threw open his own door, kicked down the door of thirty-two, and stood in the presence of the murderer and his victim--pistol in hand!  At the same instant the bell of thirty-one was violently <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>343</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>328</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>On the other side of the table, but nearer the door, his brow blacker than a thunder-cloud, sat General Brown; in one hand he held a small piece of meat, the other retained between his knees a small but exceedingly stanch-looking dog, of the true bull-terrier breed.  Both the General and the dog showed their teeth;--both were epitomes of ferocity, but the snarl of the dog was as nothing to the snarl of the General as, half-rising from his seat, but still holding the dog down by the collar, he shouted--"How's this, sir?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>Bogle staggered back--dashing back from his brow the perspiration, he dropped the pistol and, leaning against the door, gasped rather than articulated--"It's a dog!"</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Yes, sir!" roared the infuriated General, rising from his chair--" <HI REND="italics">and a she dog at that</HI>
198.sgm:! what have <HI REND="italics">you</HI>
198.sgm:<P>Bogle, almost fainting, stammered painfully forth, "Is her--name--Fanny?"</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>344</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>329</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"D--n you, sir," screamed the General, "I'll let you know!  Sta-boy! bite him, Fan!"</P>
198.sgm:<P>Like an arrow from a bow, like lightning from the cloud, like shot off a shovel, like anything that goes quick, sprang the female bull-terrier on the unhappy Bogle.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Man is but mortal," and Bogle turned to flee.  "It was too late!"  Why did he take off his coat?--ah! why wear such tight pantaloons?</P>
198.sgm:<P>Shrieking like a demon, the ferocious beast clinging to one extremity, his hair on end with fright and horror at the other, Bogle rushed frantically down the passage, overturning in his mad career police officers, chambermaids, housekeeper, and boarders, who, alarmed at his outcries, thronged tumultuously into the hall.  The first flight of stairs he took at a jump;--the second he rolled down from top to bottom, the bull-terrier clinging to him like a steel trap--first the dog on top, then Bogle;--arrived at the bottom, he sprang forth into Sansome Street, and reckless of Frink's alarmed cry--"Stop that man--he hasn't paid his bill!" away he went on the wings of the wind.  It was an awful sight to see that little figure, as, wild with horror, he ran adown the street, the stanch dog swinging from side to side as he fled.</P>
198.sgm:<P>It was a fearful race!  Never did a short pair of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>345</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>330</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>They brought Bogle home in a hand-cart, and put him to bed.  He hasn't sat down since.  As they took him up-stairs to his room, surrounded by a clamorous throng, the door of No. 10, at the foot of the first flight of stairs, opened, and a gentleman of exceeding dignity made his appearance in a dressing-gown of beautifully embroidered pattern.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>346</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>331</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>"John," he said to Mr. Duncan, who, with an extensive grin on his countenance, and Blood for Blood (somewhat dilapidated in the scuffle) in his hand, was bringing up the rear of the procession with a candle. "what's all this row about?"</P>
198.sgm:<P>John briefly explained.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"I thought it a fire," said the gentleman, "but, ' <HI REND="italics">Parturiunt montes, nascetur</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"A ridiculous muss," said the classic John Duncan.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The gentleman retired; so did the chambermaid; so did the boarder generally; so did General Brown, with his dog under his arm, swearing he would not part with her for five hundred dollars; so did the policemen, somewhat scandalized that nobody was murdered after all.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Bogle left the house next day in a baby-jumper, swung to a pole between two Chinamen.  Artemesia and the infant followed.</P>
198.sgm:<P>I hear that he has lately increased his business, taken a partner, and attends to the examination of wills, marriage settlements, and other papers belonging entirely to other people's business.  Sneak is the name of the partner; he or Bogle may be seen daily at the "Hall of Records," from ten until two o'clock, overhauling something or other that is no concern of theirs.  They furnish all sorts of information <HI REND="italics">gratis</HI>
198.sgm:.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>347</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>332</PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>General Brown has settled in Grass Valley, Nevada County, and would have appointed every white male inhabitant of California a member of his staff with the rank of Lieutenant-Colonel had he not been anticipated.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Fanny killed forty-four rats in thirty seconds, only last week--so Tom says.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The Tehama House is still there.</P>
198.sgm:<BACK><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>348</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<AD><P>BY EDWARD NOYES WESTCOTT.</P>
198.sgm:<P>David Harum.  A Story of American Life.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Illustrated Edition.  With 70 full-page and text pictures by B. West Clinedinst, and other text designs by C. D. Farrand, and a biography of the author by Forbes Heermans.  12mo.  $1.50.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Edition de Luxe.  Printed in tints, with copperplate photogravures and other illustrations.  8vo.  Large paper, uncut.  $5.00 net.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"The newsboys on the street can talk of `David Harum,' but scarcely a week ago we heard an intelligent girl of fifteen, in a house which entertains the best of the daily papers and the weekly reviews, ask, `Who is Kipling?'"-- <HI REND="italics">The Literary World, Boston</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"We give Edward Noyes Westcott his true place in American letters--placing him as a humorist next to Mark Twain, as a master of dialect above Lowell, as a descriptive writer equal to Bret Harte, and, on the whole, as a novelist on a par with the best of those who live and have their being in the heart of hearts of American readers.  If the author is dead--lamentable fact--his book will live."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Item</HI>
198.sgm:<P>The Teller.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Illustrated.  12mo.  Cloth, $1.00.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The publishers of "David Harum" have the pleasure of presenting the only other story written by the lamented Edward Noyes Westcott.  Mr. Westcott's business life lay with practical financial matters, and in "The Teller" he has drawn upon his knowledge of life in a bank.  It is unnecessary to emphasize the interest attaching to the only other work in fiction done by the author of "David Harum."</P>
198.sgm:<P>Fortunately for the readers of this masterpiece, Mr. Westcott wrote several letters in regard to the book while he was engaged upon the manuscript, and these, with other letters, have been preserved.  They have been edited for publication by his sister, and are included in this volume.  A biography of Mr. Westcott is added by his friend, Mr. Forbes Heermans, who describes the manner in which "David Harum" was written.  Some peculiarly interesting portraits of Mr. Westcott and a picture of his home illustrate the book.</P>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>349</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>By JOEL CHANDLER HARRIS.</P>
198.sgm:<P>Uncle Remus:  His Songs and His Sayings.</P>
198.sgm:<P>New and Revised Edition.  112 Illustrations by A. B. Frost.  Library Edition.  12mo.  Cloth, gilt top, $2.00.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"An exquisite volume, full of good illustrations, and if there is anybody in this country who doesn't know Mr. Harris, here is an opportunity to make his acquaintance and have many a good laugh."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Herald</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"Mr. Harris has made a real addition to literature purely and strikingly American, and Mr. Frost has aided in fixing the work indelibly on the consciousness of the American reader."-- <HI REND="italics">The Churchman</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"We say it with the utmost faith that there is not an artist who works in illustration that can catch the attitude and expression, the slyness, the innate depravity, the eye of surprise, obstinacy, the hang of the head or the kick of the heels of the mute and the brute creation as Mr. Frost has shown to us here."-- <HI REND="italics">Baltimore Sun</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"Nobody could possibly have done this work better than Mr. Frost, whose appreciation of negro life fitted him especially to be the interpreter of `Uncle Remus,' and whose sense of the humor in animal life makes these drawings really illustrations in the fullest sense.  Mr. Harris's well-known work has become in a sense a classic, and this may be accepted as the standard edition."-- <HI REND="italics">Philadelphia Times</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"The old tales of the plantation have never been told as Mr. Harris has told them.  Each narrative is to the point, and so swift in its action upon the risibilities of the reader that one almost loses consciousness of the printed page, and fancies it is the voice of the lovable old darky himself that steals across the senses and brings mirth inextinguishable as it comes."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Tribune</HI>
198.sgm:<P>On the Plantation.</P>
198.sgm:<P>With 23 Illustrations by E. W. Kemble, and Portrait of the Author.  12mo.  Cloth, $1.50.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"The book is in the characteristic vein which has made the author so famous and popular as an interpreter of plantation character."-- <HI REND="italics">Rochester Union and Advertiser</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"Those who never tire of Uncle Remus and his stories--with whom we would be accounted--will delight in Joe Maxwell and his exploits."-- <HI REND="italics">London Saturday Review</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"A charming little book, tastefully gotten up....Its simplicity, humor, and individuality would be very welcome to any one who was weary of the pretentiousness and the dull obviousness of the average three-volume novel."-- <HI REND="italics">London Chronicle</HI>
198.sgm:<P>"Really a valuable, if modest, contribution to the history of the civil war within the Confederate lines, particularly on the eve of the catastrophe.  Two or three new animal fables are introduced with effect; but the history of the plantation, the printing-office, the black runaways, and white deserters, of whom the impending break-up made the community tolerant, the coon and fox hunting, forms the serious purpose of the book, and holds the reader's interest from beginning to end."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Evening Post</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>350</CONTROLPGNO>
198.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
198.sgm:<P>By FRANK R. STOCKTON.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The Captain's Toll-Gate.</P>
198.sgm:<P>A Complete Posthumous Novel by FRANK R. STOCKTON, Author of "Kate Bonnet," "The Lady or the Tiger," etc.  With a Memoir by Mrs. Stockton, an Etched Portrait, Views of Mr. Stockton's Home, and a Bibliography.  12mo.  Cloth, $1.50.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The scene is partly laid in Washington but mainly in that part of West Virginia where th author spent the last three years of his life.  Incidents centering about the "Toll-Gate" and a fashionable country home in the neighborhood are related with the author's peculiar humor and charm of diction which have endeared him to a host of readers.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The heroine who is an embodiment of the healthy vigorous girl of to-day, and her several suitors, together with the mistress of the country house and a meddlesome unmarried woman of the village, combine to present a fascinating and varied picture of social life to the present day.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"In the story we have the real Stockton at his best and brightest.  The fun, the whimsicality, the queer doings, the very delightful people are such as his readers have been entertained with for so many years.  The fertility of invention and ingenuity is as fresh as in the early stories, and perhaps Mr. Stockton never came nearer to success in trying to keep a long story together to the end without digressions or a break in the plot.  The heroine is a charming girl, her married hostess still more charming, and there are plenty of others the reader will be glad to meet.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Mrs. Stockton's sketch of her husband gives us a glimpse of a lovable and delightful personality and shows the author at work just as the reader must have imagined him.  Swinging in a hammock under the fir trees, or when winter came, in an easy chair before a big log fire, he dreamed his fancies and dictated them, bit by bit, as they came, to his secretary."-- <HI REND="italics">New York Sun</HI>
198.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>351</CONTROLPGNO>
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198.sgm:<P>A NOVEL OF REAL IMPORTANCE.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The Law of Life.</P>
198.sgm:<P>By ANNA MCCLURE SHOLL.  12mo.  Cloth, $1.50.</P>
198.sgm:<P>This remarkable novel presents an entirely new, and a very entertaining feature of American national and social development.  Miss Sholl has sought her inspiration in the life and interests of a large University, as that life is felt and known from the faculty and post-graduate standpoint.  The author has brought to this fascinating and unfamiliar subject a close personal knowledge and an enthusiastic appreciation of its possibilities for literary purposes.</P>
198.sgm:<P>The following letter, wholly unsolicited, and written by a stranger, was received by the author of this book within two weeks from the date on which the book was published.  The writer's name is here withheld by request, but it may properly be said that he is the President of the Bar Association in one of the largest cities of the United States west of the Alleghanies.</P>
198.sgm:<P><HSEP>"September 5, 1903.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"I write to say that I have just finished reading your story, "The Law of Life," and have found it a work of unusual merit.  I do not pose as a literary critic, nor as one who pretends to read the many works of fiction which crowd the market rather as one who does not; but I do, now and then, read a story which interests me.  When I took up your book I did not know whether I should car to finish it, but soon discovered that it displayed a refinement and felicity of expression and a keenness of discrimination and analysis not common to American writers of fiction.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"The colloquial portions are brilliant, and the subtleties of conflicting emotions and motives are portrayed with great power and skill.  The story as a whole is a tribute to the cleverness of the author of which she has a just right to feel proud.  One of the charms of the book lies in the manner of outlining pictures of nature in apt phrase without being effusive.  The scenes are all well defined without excess of verbiage.  This is so rare in works of fiction as to merit attention.</P>
198.sgm:<P>"Please excuse this liberty.  You do not need encouragement, I am sure, but I hope you are not averse to being told when you have done something worthy of mention.  In fact, no one could write so good a story who was indifferent to public opinion.  Absolving you from the slightest obligation to answer, I beg to subscribe myself, though a stranger,</P>
198.sgm:<P>Very sincerely yours,"</P>
203.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-203</TITLE>
203.sgm:<TITLE>Semi-tropical California:  its climate, healthfulness, productiveness, and scenery ... By Major Ben. C. Truman: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
203.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
203.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
203.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
203.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
203.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc 01-911</LCCN>
203.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
203.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>13434</COPYRIGHT>
203.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>SEMI-TROPICAL</p><P>CALIFORNIA:</p><P>ITS CLIMATE, HEALTHFULNESS, PRODUCTIVENESS, AND</p><P>SCENERY; ITS MAGNIFICENT STRETCHES OF VINE-</p><P>YARDS AND GROVES OF SEMI-TROPICAL</p><P>FRUITS, ETC., ETC., ETC.</p><P>By MAJOR BEN. C. TRUMAN.</p><P>SAN FRANCISCO:</p><P>A. L. BANCROFT &amp; COMPANY, PUBLISHERS.</p><P>1874.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1874,</p><P>By BEN. C. TRUMAN,</p><P>In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>In compliance with current</p><P>copyright law, LBS Archival</p><P>Products produced this</p><P>replacement volume on paper</p><P>that meets the ANSI Standard</p><P>Z39.48-1984 to replace the</p><P>irreparably deteriorated</p><P>original.</p><P>1991</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><P>TO</p><P>GENERAL PHINEAS BANNING,</p><P>IN MEMORY OF MY</p><P>FIRST VISIT TO SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA.</p><P>DOMINUS VOBISCUM.</p></DIV>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>PREFACE.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>HAVING traveled largely in Semi-tropical California, having examined closely and carefully its agricultural and pomological limits and advantages, and having written faithfully and elaborately of this land flowing with milk and honey, and where every man may sit under his own vine and fig tree, I have yielded to the earnest persuasions of friends and others, and made a book.  I have visited nearly every orange grove and vineyard in Los Angeles county, and gathered my statistics in person; and I pledge myself, as a writer of acknowledged reliability, and as a special correspondent of such famous and well-known journals as the New York <HI REND="italics">Times</HI>
203.sgm:, Philadelphia <HI REND="italics">Press</HI>
203.sgm:, Washington <HI REND="italics">Chronicle</HI>
203.sgm:, and San Francisco <HI REND="italics">Bulletin</HI>
203.sgm:, who has visited almost all parts of the world in the employ of one or the other of the above-named newspapers, that I have not made a statement in the following pages that is not strictly true in every particular; and I here assert that, <HI REND="italics">everything</HI>
203.sgm: taken into consideration, Los Angeles county (the heart of Semi-tropical California) has no equal in the world.  For details, I respectfully invite perusal.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>CONTENTS.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>INTRODUCTORY<HSEP>13<LB>CHAPTER I.<LB>THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES--A CURSORY GLANCE--ITS RAILROADS AND FACILITIES OF INTERCOURSE--ITS WATER SUPPLY--ITS PRESS HOTELS, SCHOOLS, SOCIETIES, AND CHURCHES--THE COSMOPOLITAN CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION OF LOS ANGELES<HSEP>16<LB>CHAPTER II.<LB>AN INTERESTING HISTORICAL SKETCH--THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES NEARLY ONE HUNDRED YEARS OLD--WHEN AND BY WHOM IT WAS FOUNDED<HSEP>22<LB>CHAPTER III.<LB>SUBSEQUENT HISTORY--HOW LOS ANGELES FIGURED IN THE MEXICAN WAR--THE FIRST SURVEY--THE MARVELOUS GROWTH OF THE CITY AND IMPROVEMENT OF ITS SOCIETY--THE IMPETUS GIVEN COMMERCE AND AGRICULTURE BY THE AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN ELEMENT--SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA THE PLACE FOR MECHANICS, FARMERS, AND UNSKILLED LABORERS<HSEP>26<LB>CHAPTER IV.<LB>THE CLIMATE AND HEALTHFULNESS OF LOS ANGELES--THE MOST CHARMING CLIMATE IN THE WORLD THE YEAR ROUND, AND THE MOST EQUABLE TEMPERATURE TO BE FOUND IN THE NORTH TEMPERATE ZONE--FIGURES AND FACTS BY M'PHERSON<HSEP>31</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>CHAPTER V.<LB>SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA IN WINTER--VIEWS OF NOTED WRITERS--JOHN SHIRLEY WARD MAKES A COMPARISON OF THE WINTERS OF TENNESSEE AND LOS ANGELES--SUMMER TIME IN LOS ANGELES<HSEP>40<LB>CHAPTER VI.<LB>A MATCHLESS PANORAMA--MAGNIFICENT STRETCHES OF VINEYARDS AND ORANGE AND LEMON GROVES IN THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES--BEAUDRY TERRACE<HSEP>48<LB>CHAPTER VII.<LB>CHOROGRAPHY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY--ITS SOIL AND PRODUCTIVENESS--THE CONSTANTLY INCREASING DEMAND FOR SEMI-TROPICAL PRODUCTIONS--STOCK RAISING AND WOOL GROWING--DESCRIPTION OF A SHEEP RANCH--THE LARGE RANCHES OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY--A TABLE OF EXPORTS THAT SPEAKS FOR ITSELF--THE FIRST INTRODUCTION OF AMERICAN ELEMENT INTO LOS ANGELES COUNTY--THE CLIMATE AND HEALTHFULNESS OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY--PICTORIAL DESCRIPTIONS BY CALIFORNIA EDITORS<HSEP>66<LB>CHAPTER VIII.<LB>THE STAPLE PRODUCTIONS OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY--THE CULTIVATION OF THE OLIVE, THE ORANGE, LEMON, LIME, CITRON, FIG, POMEGRANATE, ALMOND AND ENGLISH WALNUT--GOV. JOHN G. DOWNEY ON ORANGE CULTURE--THE CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE, AND THE MANUFACTURE OF WINE AND BRANDY<HSEP>83<LB>CHAPTER IX.<LB>THE MINERAL DEPOSITS OF SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA--SOME FACTS ABOUT THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD--THE SAN GABRIEL PLACER MINES AND THE SOLEDAD QUARTZ LEADS--THE ZAPATA SILVER MINE--THE GREAT OIL REPOSITORIES OF VENTURA AND LOS ANGELES COUNTIES--THE MANUFACTURE OF SALT<HSEP>96</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>CHAPTER X.<LB>IRRIGATION--THE PROCESS OF CULTIVATING LANDS BY THE INTRODUCTION OF WATER THROUGH ARTIFICIAL CANALS--GOVERNOR DOWNEY'S VIEWS ON IRRIGATION<HSEP>107<LB>CHAPTER XI.<LB>THE VALLEY OF THE SAN GABRIEL--THE LOMBARDY OF SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA--A MAGNIFICENT PANORAMA OF VINEYARDS AND ORANGE GROVES--STONEMAN'S HOME--RANCHO DEL MOLINO--LAKE VINEYARD--SUNNY SLOPE--SANTA ANITA RANCH--AN EMINENT WRITER'S OPINION OF SAN GABRIEL--THE OLD MISSION CHURCH AND THE CHURCH OF OUR SAVIOUR<HSEP>116<LB>CHAPTER XII.<LB>DESCRIPTION OF ANAHEIM--A GLANGE AT A NOTED COLONY--THE REALM OF HYGEIA--A SKETCH OF VINE LANDS--A GREAT WINE-MAKER--ANECDOTE OF BEN DREYFUS--A DRIVE AROUND THE SURROUNDINGS OF ANAHEIM--WESTMINSTER AND RICHLAND--ARTESIAN WELLS IN ABUNDANCE--SANTA ANA AND GOSPEL SWAMP--THE OLD MISSION RUINS OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO<HSEP>145<LB>CHAPTER XIII.<LB>THE GREAT CORN-PRODUCING DISTRICTS OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY--EL MONTE AND LOS NIETOS--A MAGNIFICENT RANCHO--SPADRA, THE PRESENT SOUTHERN TERMINUS OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD<HSEP>161<LB>CHAPTER XIV.<LB>WILMINGTON--ITS HARBOR, BEACH AND BREAKWATER--THE WILSON COLLEGE--THE WILMINGTON WOOL DEPOT--A PEN PICTURE<HSEP>169<LB>CHAPTER XV.<LB>SUBURBAN SETTLEMENTS--THE SAN GABRIEL ORANGE ASSOCIATION--FAIR OAKS--WHAT A MAN OF INDUSTRY CAN DO WITH FORTY <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:DOLLARS IN NINE YEARS--LA BELLE CASCADE--EAST LOS ANGELES--SAN FERNANDO--THE OLD MISSION AND ITS GARDENS--EUGENE GARNIER'S SHEEP RANCH<HSEP>177<LB>CHAPTER XVI.<LB>THE FAMOUS CHINO AND CUCAMONGA RANCHES AND VINEYARDS--A GLANCE AT SAN BERNARDINO<HSEP>194<LB>CONCLUSION--STATISTICAL<HSEP>203</p></DIV>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA.<LB>INTRODUCTORY.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>THE overgoing sun shines upon no region, of equal extent, which offers so many and such varied inducements to men in search of homes and health, as does the region which is entitled to the appellation of "Semi-Tropical California."  Embracing and including those portions of the counties of Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Bernardino, and San Diego, lying between the Coast Range, or Sierra Madre, and the Pacific Ocean, it is, besides being the natural habitat of productions which thrive nowhere else in perfection, a region peculiar, but none the less attractive, in the beauty of its scenery and the charms of its surroundings.</p><P>The line of sea coast between Monterey and San Diego is about three hundred and eighty miles in length, and the breadth of the valleys and foot-hills, between the shore line and the mountains, may be averaged at from ten to thirty miles.</p><P>The traveler who views this region from the deck of a steamer, can form but a poor idea of its wonderfully attractive features.  The majestic mountains forming the back ground to the constantly changing panorama, it is true, present suggestions of grandeur and repose; but the comparatively sparsely settled fields and valleys which intervene, fail to meet the expectations of the tourist who has been accustomed to read the glowing accounts, or listen to the descriptions, of those who have visited and made themselves familiar with this delightful region.  The orange groves, the vineyards, the almond and walnut plantations, the orchards bending with their loads of fruit--all these things are to be seen only by those who find time to explore the valleys and the hillsides, where as yet they flourish best.  Once <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:seen, however, all doubt as to the true character of the region quickly vanishes; and there are but few who, having once seen, do not resolve to make homes here, or if unable to do so, do not express their regret that fortune does not favor them in their wishes.</p><P>A romantic glamour overhangs the region.  Before the Declaration of Independence was framed, this portion of California had been settled by Spanish missionaries; and the missions and churches which they founded remain, many of them intact, and are still the places of worship; others have yielded to the touch of "time's effacing finger," and are but piles of ruins.  Wherever the sites of these churches and missions are found, however, they present objects of profound interest; not only because of their venerable antiquity, but as indicating the intelligent foresight of their founders.  Wherever they were planted, to this day remain the elements of thriving, prosperous and populous communities; and as the knowledge of what, under the peculiar conditions of the soil and climate, is necessary for the development of the resources of the locality increases among the present occupants, and as the necessity of utilizing all these elements becomes daily more and more apparent, so does the wisdom of these pioneers reveal itself more clearly.</p><P>A soil of exhaustless fertility, and the propinquity of bodies of water sufficient for the purposes of irrigation, were to them the <HI REND="italics">sine qua non</HI>
203.sgm:, the germs, so to speak, without which no foundation of a church was ever laid.  In one particular instance, a fuller reference to which will be made in the course of these pages, this foresight on the part of the Missionary Fathers has been recently demonstrated in a singularly marked manner.  But it would be idle in a mere introductory sketch to hope to be able to convey any idea of the beauty or fertility of the region whose general outlines merely are indicated above.  The object aimed at in the present volume, is to bring permanently into notice the county of Los Angeles, or, more properly, Semi-tropical California; its resources, and the advantages which it offers to the emigrant; its just claims to the title of the commercial center of what must in the near future become a sovereign State, and a great one; the fact that it must, in the nature of things, become the focal point at which a great railroad system must <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:inevitably converge; that here the soil and climate are peculiarly adapted to the production of certain staple articles with which the markets of the world never have been and never will be glutted; that with a small capital, industry and economy, forty, twenty, ten acres of land, will in time yield an income greater than can be derived from an equal space in any other locality; and that, in addition to these things, health and the advantages of a comprehensive public school system offer themselves to the resident.</p><P>It is not part of the task undertaken, or in accordance with the wishes of the writer, to detract from the claims of any other part of the delightful region which we name in our title page.  But the palm is claimed for this section.  The reader who shall follow us through these pages is asked to take the assurance home to him, that the endeavor is made to present nothing but facts, and if it be the case that he is in search of a home, to rest assured that here is to be found a region in which plenty and prosperity are the reward of industry and toil.  Homes ready made are to be had for ready money; but the new comer who has his own way to make, may expect here, as elsewhere, to pass through the usual ordeals which wait upon the experimentalist; but he may be sure of a rich return if he bends himself with energy, patience and perseverance, to the task before him.</p></DIV>
203.sgm:<BODY><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER I.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES--A CURSORY GLANCE--ITS RAILROADS AND FACILITIES OF INTERCOURSE--ITS WATER SUPPLY--ITS PRESS, HOTELS, SCHOOLS, SOCIETIES AND CHURCHES--THE COSMOPOLITAN CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION OF LOS ANGELES.</p><P>THE city of Los Angeles (the "City of the Queen of the Angels;" or, as the native Californians have it, <HI REND="italics">el Pueblo de la Reina de Los Angeles</HI>
203.sgm: ) has been for years the center of a constantly increasing circle of admirers.  Rarely, indeed, is it visited by a stranger who does not leave it with regret, or make up his mind to return.  As for its fixed and settled population, if they do not say of it, as it is asserted the Neapolitans say of Naples, "See Los Angeles and die," they do better, and say, "Come to Los Angeles and live."  The regard of the Los Angelian for the place of his domi&grave;cile soon grows into a passionate attachment; and, whether spending a few days in the metropolis of the State, or wandering on pleasure or on business bent, through stranger continents, he counts only that day happy which shall restore him to his home.  The charm of antiquity attaches itself to the history of the city, the settlement of which antedates, by many years, the earliest American emigration to this coast.  The Anglo-Saxon pioneer found here a pueblo, the site of which had been selected with that almost intuitive recognition of the fitness of locality which seemed to be a characteristic of the founders of the early Spanish settlements in the Occident.  Every day serves to confirm the wisdom of the projectors of the city of Los Angeles.  Its growth is healthy, steady and constant.  No more comprehensive statement of its peculiar advantages has ever been made, than is to be found in a remark of one of the more prominent attache&acute;s of the Central Pacific Railroad Company, who, a short time since, visited this section in an official capacity, and after a careful survey of the county, and an exhaustive and intelligent review of its resources, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:take pleasure in exhibiting their beauties to visitors from abroad.  Let us glance at the attractions offered to the tourist and resident by this beautiful city.  No person who visits California from abroad can be said to have completed his tour unless he has thoroughly inspected this city and its surroundings.  Further advanced in its semi-tropical productions than any other part of the State, the city and its vicinity thronged with memories of a by-gone age, and a population of foreign habits and birth, it presents a number of interesting features for examination not to be found elsewhere, and well worthy of careful inspection.</p><P>A distinguishing feature of the city is the cosmopolitan character of its population.  It is a veritable polyglot in the matter of languages.  English, French, Spanish, German, greet the ear at every turn.  Men of a dozen different nationalities may be met in an hour's walk.  For all this, it is safe to say that there is less clannishness, and fewer exhibitions of partisan feeling in Los Angeles than in any city of its size in the country.  A general desire to advance the common interests of the community seems to be the pervading spirit; and the incoming elements seem to assimilate and become part of the whole, with a singular, but none the less gratifying alacrity.  Taking it for all in all, Los Angeles may, with propriety, be presented as the type of a prosperous and progressive city, offering every desirable inducement to the seeker after a home, in which will be found united all the elements of soil, climate, and whatever else is most to be desired in the premises.  It may truthfully be said that the most glowing accounts of the charms of the city of Los Angeles which may be given will be found to have left the half of them untold.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER II.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>AN INTERESTING HISTORICAL SKETCH--THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES NEARLY ONE HUNDRED YEARS OLD--WHEN AND BY WHOM IT WAS FOUNDED.</p><P>ON the 26th of August, 1781, Felipe de Nieve, Governor of California, issued an order, dated at the Mission of San Gabriel, directing how and where the town of the Queen of the Angels should be established.  The care manifested by this officer respecting the location of the town, in a sanitary point of view, might well be followed by other authorities.  This town was founded by men discharged from military service, and who had been stationed previously at the Mission of San Gabriel, nine miles distant, which mission was founded in 1771.  These latter facts and date leave no room to doubt the correctness of the date of the order of Nieve; and that the order preceded the founding of this town is evident upon its face, as it directs not only how the town should be laid out, but where it shall be located.</p><P>As the founders of the town were military men relieved or discharged from service at the Mission of San Gabriel, and as the order for the founding of the town was dated at San Gabriel, and as the Governor was the chief military officer of the country, the presumption is, that the discharge of soldiers, who founded this town, the order for its founding and its settlement, were contemporary events.  The foundation of the city, therefore, is to be dated from September, 1781.</p><P>A few years ago, Col. J. J. Warner, who came to this section of country in 1832, contributed the following interesting sketch to a California periodical:</p><P>"The city of Los Angeles was founded on the fourth day of September, 1781, in conformity with the laws of Spain, providing for the settlement and organization of towns (pueblos), or municipal communities.  The founders of the town had, mostly, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:expulsion of Micheltoreno it again became the seat of government under the administration of Don Pio Pico, in 1844, and so continued until the emigration, in August, 1846, of the Mexican authorities upon the occupation of California by the United States forces.</p><P>"The corporate limits of the city extend one Spanish league north, east and west, and one Spanish league and four hundred yards south from the center of the plaza.  The Los Angeles river, originally called the Porciuncula, flows through the city limits, a little east of the center, in nearly a south course."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER III.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>SUBSEQUENT HISTORY--HOW LOS ANGELES FIGURED IN THE MEXICAN WAR--THE FIRST SURVEY--THE MARVELOUS GROWTH OF THE CITY AND IMPROVEMENT OF ITS SOCIETY--THE IMPETUS GIVEN COMMERCE AND AGRICULTURE BY THE AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN ELEMENT--SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA THE PLACE FOR MECHANICS, FARMERS AND UNSKILLED LABORERS.</p><P>IN 1846 Los Angeles was captured from the Mexicans, after two sharply-contested battles--the first at the crossing of the San Gabriel river, and the other upon the mesa in front of the town, in both of which the Mexican troops were defeated.  The movement was handsomely conceived and executed.  Commodore Stockton sent up a detachment of marines, who formed a junction with General Kearny at the river.  After the two successful engagements mentioned above, the soldiers and marines marched into and occupied the place, and were soon after joined by the command of General Fremont, who came by the way of Santa Barbara.  Fortifications were at once erected upon the hill north-west of the town, but subsequently our troops were compelled to abandon their position, and retreated to San Pedro, closely followed by the enemy.</p><P>The war between our government and Mexico, in a short time after, ceased to exist; California became a Territory of the United States, and, legally, Los Angeles was no longer a Mexican pueblo, but a "burg" of the great Yankee nation.  At this time the population approximated two thousand.  There were no brick houses, and but few wooden ones, as all lumber in those "primitive" times had to be made with a whip-saw, which would probably have been the case to-day, had there been no chapter entitled the "Mexican War" in the history of America.  In 1853, many Americans and Europeans had become residents, and improvements were commenced forthwith.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>As a general thing the natives of the soil are engaged in ranching, sheep-herding, and in laboring in the vineyards and orange-groves.  A great portion of them are very poor and ignorant.  This is the case, however, in other sections of country all over the world.  The very nature of the vocation of these unfortunate sons of toil unmistakably precludes the possibility of their attainment to any degree of intellectual cultivation or knowledge of the arts and sciences.</p><P>To a laborer, however, accustomed to farmwork, Semi-tropical California offers superior inducements.  He, above all others, is never out of employ--his wages averaging from three to four dollars the year round.  Mechanics are also in demand--getting the same wages as in San Francisco: Carpenters $5 a day; bricklayers, $5; plasterers, $6; stonecutters, $5; blacksmiths, from $4 to $5 (in gold), eight hours constituting a legal day's work.  It must be remembered that flour, meat and potatoes--the three great staples that keep the stove of physical life burning--have been for three years past, and are now, selling at from twenty to sixty per cent. less than they are bringing in New York.  At present, flour may be bought for six and seven dollars per barrel, beef at ten and fifteen cents per pound, and potatoes at one dollar per one hundred pounds.  An inkling of how the workingmen of this coast progress in saving money, is got at in the fact that the savings institutions of San Francisco, almost entirely patronized by the laboring class of that city, hold deposits amounting to $17,000,000 in gold.</p><P>Look this way, ye seekers after homes and happiness! ye honest sons of toil, and ye <HI REND="italics">pauvres miserables</HI>
203.sgm: who are dragging out a horrible life in the purlieus of large eastern cities!  Semi-tropical California welcomes you all.</p><P>A man cannot get first-class land in or right near the city without paying a pretty round price for it--say from ten dollars to one hundred dollars an acre.  The investment of from twenty-five hundred to five thousand dollars, however, will purchase a fine piece of vineyard land, that will make a fortune every year after the lapse of eight years.  In the meantime, the farmer may raise enough grain to keep his family, and make something besides.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>There are four lines of daily travel at present between the city of Los Angeles and San Francisco, and many others are projected.  The splendid and substantial vessels of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company make six or eight trips per month, and so also do the steamers of the Goodall, Nelson &amp; Perkins line.  Stages run daily each way <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
203.sgm: San Fernando and Bakersfield; and up and down the coast, <HI REND="italics">via</HI>
203.sgm: Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and other delightful cities lying west of the Sierras.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IV.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>THE CLIMATE AND HEALTHFULNESS OF LOS ANGELES--THE MOST CHARMING CLIMATE IN THE WORLD THE YEAR ROUND, AND THE MOST EQUABLE TEMPERATURE TO BE FOUND IN THE NORTH TEMPERATE ZONE--FIGURES AND FACTS BY M'PHERSON.</p><P>THE climate of Los Angeles is genial, and noted for its healthfulness, and it is as equable as any in the world.  During the warm season, or summer months, from May to October, inclusive, the mercury seldom rises above 90&deg;, the average being from 60&deg; to 70&deg;.  This heat is tempered by cooling winds from the ocean between meridian and sunset, and by breezes from the mountain gaps during the night.</p><P>During what may be termed the winter months 50&deg; will mark, on an average, the mean temperature, and water is never congealed.  The very fact that many persons wear overcoats at night, and sleep in blankets the year round, and that all field work from January to December is performed by laborers in their shirt sleeves, presents a better and more unequivocal illustration of the equability of the weather, perhaps, than any other incident that I might cite.  A large proportion of the winter favors that delightful and exquisite interlude of weather in the east, between fall and winter, known as Indian summer.  The healthfulness of this section is unquestionable, and is second to none in the world.</p><P>What is generally known as the rainy season commences in November, and lasts three or four months.  Our friends in the east, it is a curious fact, who have never visited this coast, erroneously imagine that during the "wet season"--called so in contradistinction to the dry months--rain never ceases to descend.  This popular error is corrected by glancing at weather tables, which invariably show that here during the wet season there is not only less rain, but more fair and beautiful days than <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:in that portion of the United States between the Mississippi river and the Atlantic Ocean.</p><P>During the latter part of April and the first of May, for two or three weeks, and sometimes in October and November, light fogs make their appearance at intervals, and linger until about noon; during other portions of the year an occasional fog rolls up, but it is speedily dissipated by the sun.</p><P>If the eastern invalids--those who go to Cuba and Florida in the winter, to return to their homes in the spring, to die; or who make long and tedious voyages to the Mediterranean Sea, merely to coquette with death--could only be made acquainted with the remarkable climate of Los Angeles, its charming equability and rare healthfulness, how many, many hundreds of lives might be spared yearly, and how many delicate constitutions might be made strong forever.  And where the seeds of that fell destroyer, consumption, have only been sown, how easy it would be to root them up, if the place to do so were only more generally known.  Let us examine these matters closely and carefully.  In seeking relief from consumption, in its earlier stages, by change of climate or change of condition, when a person is predisposed to the disease, a number of points are to be considered.  Before we examine these, it would be proper to inquire into the nature and cause of the disease.  It is now, we believe, generally admitted by the medical scientists that consumption is more a disease of defective nutrition than originally a disease of the lungs themselves.  In fact, the disease may develop in the mesenteric glands of the abdomen, and the subject die of <HI REND="italics">labies mesenterica</HI>
203.sgm: (consumption of the bowels), without hardly affecting the lungs.  In the full belief of this, witness the universally accepted method of treatment.  The attempt is to sustain the individual by the most concentrated and nutritious forms of diet, such as concentrated extracts of beef, sirloin steaks rare-cooked, the fatty and nutritious oils, of which the pure cod liver ranks among the best.  To digest and assimilate these, the parties are instructed to live as much as possible in the open air; to rest from mental, and take to muscular exercise; to protect the extremities, that the circulation may be assisted upon the surface at the distant capillaries.</p><P>This being the best and most rational mode of treatment, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER V.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA IN WINTER--VIEWS OF NOTED WRITERS--JOHN SHIRLEY WARD MAKES A COMPARISON OF THE WINTERS OF TENNESSEE AND LOS ANGELES--SUMMER TIME IN LOS ANGELES.</p><P>WHAT is winter, indeed, in almost every portion of the temperate zone north, elsewhere, is here the perfection of all that is agreeable and health-inspiring.  The winter solstice partakes of that charming interlude of weather between the eastern autumn and winter, called Indian summer.  The same balmy zephyrs breathe a delicious atmosphere from October to March.  While all is rude, and cold, and leafless, and flowerless, and changeable in all of the States east of the Sierras, in Los Angeles wind and weather are almost perfection; and heaven and earth seemingly conspire, in sunshine and blue sky, in leaf and blossom, and golden fruit, to make this period the very crown of the year.  From the plaza, down the long hazy sweep of the main thoroughfare of the city, all is wrapped in verdure and bloom.  The bright pepper, and acacia, and eucalyptus trees stand full against the darkness of the orange and the lemon, the latter shedding lustre rather than shadow, however, from all sides of their gracefully penciled towers of everlasting leafage.  The grass in the gardens, on each hand, is like the "freshly-broken emeralds"  that Dante saw; hyacinths and tube roses are springing up, and every slope is inhabited by modest members of the flowery kingdom, while the ivy and honeysuckles, that climb over the porches of pleasant domestic altars, glitter with fresh tips of constant growth; and everywhere there are roses--such roses as rival those of P&aelig;stum, or of the Bosphorus--white, cream, blood-red, and plush--freighting the very atmosphere with their incomparable odors and aromatic sweets.</p><P>The drives which abound are pleasant, historical, and exhilarating.  You may drive out to the delightful orange groves of the Stonemans, the Wilsons, the Kewens and the Roses, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:one of the sweltering atmosphere in which the inhabitants of less favored climes are panting and perspiring, a warm day pays a flying visit to Los Angeles.  They are so rare, however, as to be more welcome by way of contrast and reminder of the almost uniform delightful character of the climate, than otherwise.  I asked a friend, the other day, whose way of life has led him, in the service of the United States Government, from post to post, over half of the habitable globe, how he was getting along.  "Ah!" said he, "I am just simply luxuriating in your delightful climate.  It is so pleasant that I shall forego business for a day or two, that I may enjoy it fully."  The poet Bryant never wrote anything finer than his apostrophe to the west wind, commencing,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Spirit that breathest through my lattice."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>Every day, almost without exception, that same evening wind, laden with suggestions of spice islands in the far Cathay, and moist with the spray of the western sea; comes up, with healing on its wings, and bringing a blessing with it.  The fevered brow of the invalid, and the dripping forehead of the laborer, alike feel its beneficent influences, and I do not believe there is one of them all who would exchange places with the denizen of any other, even of the most favored land.  I saw a paragraph, a day or two ago, in which it was stated that in the beautiful Clear Lake region, fish by the thousands were lying dead in the waters of the lake of that name.  This is a common occurrence.  The intense heat raises the water to such a temperature that the finny tribe cannot exist in their native element.  The same phenomenon is frequently observable in the sloughs bordering on the Sacramento and other rivers.  And yet these regions, where the mercury climbs to the top of the thermometer, and only the man who could do what Sidney Smith said he would like to do, take off his flesh and sit in his bones in the church steeple, could hope to keep cool, are thronged with fugitives from the cold, and raw and uncomfortable winds, which create a stampede from San Francisco with each recurring summer solstice.  Here the average thermometer climbs with difficulty to eighty degrees; blankets are a necessity at night.  The "blast of the wild horn" of the mosquito is almost forgotten music.  The tourist has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:only to sit in the shade and keep cool; and "the toiler, to his task-work bound," whatever else he may complain of, finds no fault with the temperature, which only braces him for his labors, and invigorates him after they are concluded.  The time is not far distant when Los Angeles will be a greater summer than winter resort, if such a thing be possible.</p><P>A Chicago gentleman, who had returned home, after spending more than a year in Los Angeles, speaks of his experience as follows, in the Chicago Tribune:</p><P>"I have slept four hundred nights in Los Angeles, and have not seen or heard a mosquito in my room.  The covering every night, on my bed, has been a sheet, a double blanket, and a spread.  In a few instances, in summer, I have thrown off the spread on account of warmth; but in no case, in winter, have I required extra covering.  I think there has not been an evening, during this entire time, when a fire was absolutely necessary to one's comfort, although many times it might contribute to the comfort of persons of thin blood.  I have worn my flannels, summer and winter alike, occasionally putting on my linen coat--the amount, or kind of wearing apparel, making but little difference in December or June."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VI.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>A MATCHLESS PANORAMA--MAGNIFICENT STRETCHES OF VINEYARDS, AND ORANGE AND LEMON GROVES, IN THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES--BEAUDRY TERRACE.</p><P>A STROLL up Buena Vista street, on one of the matchless mornings which are the pride and boast of Los Angeles, will serve a double purpose to either resident or tourist.  It will furnish him with an opportunity to look over and upon a panorama of "sea, and sky, and field," which, whenever we look upon it, and we have seen it from almost every available point, seems to reveal some new and still more ravishing charm.</p><P>Berkleyans and East Oaklanders boast of the wide and splendid vista which embraces the metropolis, Tamalpais, the Bay of San Francisco, the Golden Gate and the Farralones; Santa Cruzans go into raptures over the long, semi-circular sweep of redwood-crowned hills, the glassy bay of Monterey, and the mountains beyond, and the ocean in the distance, which stand revealed to the gazer from the hill-tops which surround their town, and well they may; but the  denizen of Los Angeles, or the stranger within her gates, need only ascend the first eminence to the north of its business streets, to look out upon a scene which rivals in picturesque variety any vision which ever inspired the poet's pen, or fascinated the beholder's eye.</p><P>Her vineyards, and orange and lemon groves, and orchards of almost every known fruit, make Los Angeles the garden spot of Semi-tropical California.  It is a collection of gardens six miles square, producing, at all times of the year, almost everything that grows under the sun.</p><P>But it is not alone the &aelig;sthetic taste of the rambler which is gratified.  He sees everywhere around him the evidences of a constantly increasing prosperity, of the steady development of the boundless natural resources with which he is surrounded.  He sees in the comfortable and tasteful buildings which have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:which is his homestead, and part of which he proposes to deed to his only remaining son, upon his attaining his majority, while the homestead will be reserved for the daughter.  Upon this homestead tract are ten thousand vines eighteen years old, and eight thousand of younger growth, from which he manufactures yearly from three thousand to eight thousand gallons of wine, as the demand of the home trade which he has built up requires.  The remainder of his grape crop he sells to neighboring vintners.  He has also upon his place about eighty bearing orange trees, one thousand younger ones, thirty or forty limes, two hundred apples, one hundred pears, fifty walnuts, besides quinces, nectarines, apricots, peaches and other fruits.  A large, roomy, comfortable and elegantly furnished residence, makes a cozy retreat for the old gentleman and the partner of his long struggles with adverse fortune--for be it known that he is no exception to the general rule, but has met with probably fully his share of the discouragements and delays which have waited upon every man, who, like him, has undertaken to build up a competency by honest labor and perserverance.  He tells the old story about days when it was hard to make both ends meet, and has probably realized fully the force of the singer's words:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"But the waiting time, my brothers,<LB>Is the hardest time of all."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>But he waited and worked, and now, when "in the downhill of life he finds he's declining," he looks out upon his broad acres and pleasant orchards and fruitful vines, and says that seeing that he owes no man a dollar, and everything which he has around him is his own, he thinks he can enjoy himself.  And I think he ought to be able to do so.  Children and grandchildren gather around him and make home pleasant.  He ought to be happy.  His vineyards are models of neatness and luxuriance.</p><P>There are few, if any, pleasanter places among the vineyards and orange groves of Los Angeles than the estate of Mr. Dalton.  I trust the family circle may long remain unbroken, and in full enjoyment of its home-like comforts.</p><P>Colonel Norman C. Jones is the owner of forty-eight acres of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:1831, and not long after commenced the work of improving the place upon which his descendants now reside.  To my view, one of the most charming and noticeable features of the place is the walnut grove covering about two acres.  The trees were planted thirty years ago, at a distance from each other of forty feet each way.  Their branches meet and interlace in every direction, and when in full summer foliage a more than twilight gloom pervades the grove.  Mr. Louis Wolfskill informed me that in favorable season the crop of the two acres nets about $500, something over $8 to the tree.  At present there are about two thousand bearing orange, five hundred lemon, and four hundred lime trees on the place.  Each year will witness constant accessions to these numbers, from trees already planted and of different ages of growth.  The orchard and grounds occupy about one hundred and thirty acres.  When fully developed it will probably be difficult to find the same number of acres, elsewhere than in the heart of a flourishing city, more valuable or yielding a more liberal income.  Long experience has made the present proprietors <HI REND="italics">au fait</HI>
203.sgm: in all that pertains to the culture of semi-tropical fruits, and the excellent condition of the soil shows at a glance that they do not intend to let the fair fame of the Wolfskill orchard suffer for want of due attention and careful cultivation.  The Wolfskill place needs no encomium at a writer's hands.  Its beauty and productiveness are common themes throughout the country.</p><P>Mr. Prudent Beaudry is not a speculator.  On the contrary, he is a cool-headed, clear-headed man of business, who possesses at once the faculty of forecasting the future to a very considerable extent, in conjunction with the nerve and the means to back his judgment when he makes up his mind that an investment is likely to prove profitable.  Two instances in his career as a real estate dealer go to prove this.  A few years ago he purchased a tract of hill land in the north-east part of the city, at sheriff's sale, for something less than $500.  He was laughed at by the wiseacres, who asserted their belief that no house would ever be built on the tract.  He has sold just about one third of the tract, and realized about $5,000 for it.  There are about forty residences on the portion sold.  He purchased in the neighborhood of forty acres in the western part of the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>Diagonally across the street Col. J. J. Howard has built himself a residence which is justly accounted one of the handsomest and most attractive in the city.  It is a model of convenience and comfort.  A beautiful lawn, planted with rare evergreens, occupies the greater part of the Colonel's grounds, while a splendid collection of rare and beautiful roses and other flowers fills up the complement of their adorning.  Good taste and a keen eye for the beautiful have suggested and overlooked all the details of this gentleman's home, and I presume that very few visitors have walked or driven past it, who have not paused to admire it, and count the man happy who can call it his own.  Such places as Captain Thom's and Colonel Howard's do good in a community.  They at once create and stimulate a love for the pleasant and beautiful in the homes of its citizens, and by the mere force of example, continually add to its attractions, by inducing others to go and do likewise.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VII.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>CHOROGRAPHY OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY--ITS SOIL AND PRODUCTIVENESS--THE CONSTANTLY INCREASING DEMAND FOR SEMI- TROPICAL PRODUCTIONS--STOCK RAISING AND WOOL GROWING--DESCRIPTION OF A SHEEP RANCH--THE LARGE RANCHES OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY--A TABLE OF EXPORTS THAT SPEAKS FOR ITSELF--THE FIRST INTRODUCTION OF AMERICAN ELEMENT INTO LOS ANGELES COUNTY--THE CLIMATE AND HEALTHFULNESS OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY--PICTORIAL DESCRIPTIONS BY CALIFORNIA EDITORS.</p><P>I will now present to the reader a chapter upon Los Angeles county at large, its chorography, soil and productions.</p><P>Ladies and gentlemen of culture and extended travel, who have visited this section, and who may be presumed, on account of their educated and cosmopolitan opinions, to be less enthusiastic, and, therefore, less liable to present contracted views than those "native and to the manner born," declare, with one accord, that Los Angeles county is incomparable in the richness of its soil, and the diversity of its agricultural limit, and the picturesque loveliness and attractiveness of its location.  Certain it is that nature has dispensed her gifts with a lavish hand.  The climate, the healthfulness of which is a great desideratum, is almost all that could be desired, being hardly ever too warm, and never too cold; presenting no great extremes, in fact, during any portion of the year.  Almost every species of the vegetable kingdom, and all of the northern and semi-tropical productions of fruits flourish, and yield in great profusion.  There is, indeed, no section of country under the sun, taking everything into consideration, where nature has been so lavish in her gifts.  The great desideratum, a genial and healthful climate, constitutes a prime attraction.  From Aurora's fanning zephyr to Cynthia's delicate breath, day in and day out, from one year's end to the other, the voluptuous atmosphere seems laden with balms from Hygeia; and for picturesqueness of situation, the whole <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>64</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>Ex Mission San Fernando, E. De Celis<HSEP>121,619.24</p><P>Tujunga, D. W. Alexander et al<HSEP>6,660.71</p><P>La Canada, J. R. Scott and B. Hays<HSEP>5,832.71</p><P>San Pascual, Manuel Garfias<HSEP>13,693.93</p><P>Santa Anita, Henry Dalton<HSEP>13,319.06</p><P>Azuza, Henry Dalton<HSEP>4,431.05</p><P>Azuza Duarto, A. Duarto<HSEP>6,595.63</p><P>San Jose, H. Dalton et al<HSEP>22,720.28</p><P>Rincon de la Brea, G. Ybarra<HSEP>4,452.59</p><P>Los Noyales, M. de Jesus Garcia et al<HSEP>460.72</p><P>Tract of da Pabla, de Jesus Courtenay<HSEP>49.29</p><P>La Puenta, Julian Workman et al<HSEP>48,790.55</p><P>Huarta de Custi, Victoria Reid<HSEP>128.26</p><P>El Escorpion, Indian Urbana et al<HSEP>1,110.00</p><P>San Gabriel Mission (Church)<HSEP>190.69</p><P>Potrero de Felipe Lugo M. &amp; M. V. Ronero<HSEP>2,042.81</p><P>Potrero Grande, J. M. Sanchez<HSEP>4,431.95</p><P>La Merced, F.P.F. Temple et al<HSEP>2,363.75</p><P>San Antonio, A. M. Lugo<HSEP>29,513.35</p><P>La Cienega, Anaria Abila et al<HSEP>4,439.05</p><P>San Jose de Buenas Ayres, B. D. Wilson et al<HSEP>4,438.69</p><P>La Ballona, Augustin Machada et al<HSEP>13,919.90</p><P>Los Palos Verdes, J. L. Sepdiveda et al<HSEP>3,629.43</p><P>San Pedro, Manuel Dominguez et al<HSEP>43,119.13</p><P>Tajanta, E. Abila<HSEP>8,570.27</p><P>La Habra, A. Pico and others<HSEP>6,698.57</p><P>Los Coyotes, A. Pico and others<HSEP>56,979.72</p><P>Los Alamitos, A. Stearns<HSEP>17,789.79</p><P>La Bolsa Chica, Joaquin Ruiz<HSEP>8,107.40</p><P>Los Bolsas, Ramon Yerba et al<HSEP>34,486.53</p><P>Santiago de Santa Ana, B. Yerba et al<HSEP>62,516.57</p><P>Can&tilde;on de Santa Ana, B. Yerba et al<HSEP>13,328.53</p><P>El Rincon, B. Yerba et al<HSEP>4,431.41</p><P>San Joaquin, J. Sepulveda<HSEP>48,803.16</p><P>Canada de los Alisos, Jose Serano<HSEP>10,688.81</p><P>Trabuco, Juan Foster<HSEP>22,184.47</p><P>Mission Viejo de la Paz<HSEP>46,432.65</p><P>Mission San Juan Capistrano (Church)<HSEP>44.56</p><P>Santa Gertrudes, Samuel Carpenter<HSEP>24,014.80</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>La Liebre, Jose Maria Flores<HSEP>48,799.59</p><P>Castac, Jose Maria Cvaarubias<HSEP>22,178.29</p><P>El Tejon, Jose Aquirre et al<HSEP>97,616.78</p><P>Providencia, D. W. Alexander et al<HSEP>4,438.68</p><P>Paso de Bariolo, Pio Pico<HSEP>7,717.46</p><P>Redeo de los Aguas, Maria Rita Valdez<HSEP>4,449.39</p><P>San Francisquita, Henry Dalton<HSEP>8,852.40</p><P>Triumfo (unrecorded in book of patents)</p><P>Catalina Island, James Lick<HSEP>48,825.48</p><P>Clemente Island (unrecorded)</p><P>Los Felis, Maria Ygnacia Berdugo<HSEP>6,647.46</p><P>Malaga (unrecorded)</p><P>Los Pinos, Juan Foster<HSEP>522.98</p><P>El Casiso, Juan Foster<HSEP>167.51</p><P>De la Cienega, Juan Foster<HSEP>447.25</p><P>The following is the Los Angeles and San Pedro Railroad Company's export report for the year, commencing January 1, 1873, and ending December 31, 1873:</p><P>POUNDS</p><P>Assorted Merchandize, 2,586 packages<HSEP>246,500</p><P>Wine and brandy, gallons, 303,670<HSEP>3,036,700</p><P>Wool, 10,488 bales<HSEP>3,626,389</p><P>Bullion, 58,056 bars<HSEP>4,826,741</p><P>Fruit, 14,342 boxes<HSEP>1,003,940</p><P>Ore, 2,129 sacks      212,050</p><P>Skins, 437 bales<HSEP>65,550</p><P>Green hides, 4,664<HSEP>260,361</p><P>Dry hides, 5,574<HSEP>94,758</p><P>Corn, 46,400 sacks<HSEP>5,527,768</p><P>Corn meal and rye, 8,888 sacks<HSEP>1,055,360</p><P>Oats, 34 sacks<HSEP>2,511</p><P>Beans, 4,926 sacks<HSEP>383,367</p><P>Rye, 2,579 sacks<HSEP>286,420</p><P>Seed, 245 sacks<HSEP>30,590</p><P>Wheat, 5,308 sacks<HSEP>653,317</p><P>Pop corn, 240 sacks<HSEP>29,092</p><P>Carried forward<HSEP>21,341,415</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>74</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>Brought forward<HSEP>21,341,414</p><P>Borax, 433 sacks<HSEP>47,505</p><P>Nuts, 1,141 sacks<HSEP>82,594</p><P>Hay, 787 bales<HSEP>175,400</p><P>Hops, 96 bales<HSEP>18,692</p><P>Eggs, 467 boxes<HSEP>35,180</p><P>Honey, 1,625 boxes<HSEP>199,680</p><P>Beeswax, 58 packages<HSEP>2,904</p><P>Brea (asphaltum)<HSEP>356,934</p><P>Oil, 97 barrels<HSEP>38,800</p><P>Empty barrels and kegs, 44<HSEP>2,640</p><P>Dried fruit, 475 packages<HSEP>29,545</p><P>Tallow, 192 packages<HSEP>36,037</p><P>Trees and cuttings, 72 packages<HSEP>7,200</p><P>Shark fins and abalones, 442 packages<HSEP>70,691</p><P>Wagons, 7<HSEP>10,500</p><P>Horses, 11<HSEP>11,000</p><P>Hogs, 1,194<HSEP>268,650</p><P>Sheep, 17<HSEP>1,700</p><P>Express freight<HSEP>132,000</p><P>Total<HSEP>24,479,045</p><P>The railroad company have furnished no statement of their freight receipts for 1874, but it is safe to say that there will be found by their next annual report a very appreciable increase in every article of export named in the above list, especially in the items of wine, brandy, grain, fruit, wool, asphaltum and orange, lemon and lime trees, which from the staple productions of the county.  The shipments of bullion and ores will also be found to have very far more than doubled.</p><P>Los Angeles County contains a population of rising 26,000 souls, a little less than one third of whom are native Californians and Mexicans, and who live chiefly by raising stock, and by unskilled labor upon vineyards and ranches.</p><P>Los Angeles County was the scene of American labor and imprevement as long ago as 1828-9, for it was about this time that Don Abel Stearns and John Temple came to this section; and I may term it the seafaring element.  The arrival of Messrs. J. J.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>MONTH.<HSEP>7 A.M.<HSEP>3 P.M.<HSEP>9 P.M.</p><P>January<HSEP>40<HSEP>59<HSEP>46</p><P>February<HSEP>46<HSEP>61<HSEP>53</p><P>March<HSEP>47<HSEP>64<HSEP>52</p><P>April<HSEP>51<HSEP>68<HSEP>55</p><P>May<HSEP>60<HSEP>72<HSEP>61</p><P>June<HSEP>64<HSEP>74<HSEP>67</p><P>July<HSEP>68<HSEP>80<HSEP>68</p><P>August<HSEP>67<HSEP>77<HSEP>67</p><P>September<HSEP>70<HSEP>75<HSEP>67</p><P>October<HSEP>59<HSEP>71<HSEP>61</p><P>November<HSEP>43<HSEP>67<HSEP>47</p><P>December<HSEP>47<HSEP>59<HSEP>46</p><P>I will conclude this chapter by the production of two letters written by distinguished California editors, and at present proprietors of newspapers in adjoining counties.  The first description is by Mr. Hudnut, editor of the Kern County <HI REND="italics">Courier</HI>
203.sgm:, and who has been often termed the most refined and graceful newspaper writer on the Pacific coast.  Mr. Hudnut says:</p><P>"An interval of thirteen years has elapsed since our last visit to the City of the Angels, and the changes that had taken place in that time were greater than we expected to see.  Of course we were familiar, or had a general idea of what had taken place in the county, but we expected to have seen it principally manifested in the country.  This is not the case.  True, the advance even there is of a marked and decided character, but the growth and improvement is principally in the city and its immediate environs.  It appeared at least four times as large as we had previously known it, and the area of its orange groves, vineyards and gardens seemed to have extended in even greater proportions.  Many fine, costly, city-like structures had arisen, hotels, banks and business houses.  The hills, at the foot of which the original town was built, are becoming, because of the fine views obtained, a favorite locality for private residences, and many of them are already crowned with tasteful buildings, while a great deal of costly grading and excavating was being done to make places for more.  The tendency of improvement in this direction adds greatly to the appearance of the city, and gives interest to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:the approach by any of the roads leading into it.  One very fine building, on a lofty eminence, opposite the centre of the city, that affords accommodation to the public schools, is visible from a great distance, and is the central point of visual attraction to travelers as they converge thitherward.  A few years ago it was thought the water did not suffice for the lands of the city, but with art and economy in its management, this was found a mistake.  All within the corporate limits is now under the highest state of cultivation, an extensive aggregation of the finest gardens in the world, containing among their valuable products every kind of horticultural tree grown in either the temperate or semi-tropical regions of the earth, among which the orange, with its rich, dark green foliage contrasting with the bright yellow of its delicious fruit, predominates, and by degrees it was even found that water, having sufficed to perform its vivifying duty in town limits, could be spared beyond, and accordingly in many instances, it has been permitted to proceed on its fertilizing mission, and now, especially in the direction of Wilmington, innumerable young gardens of fruit and nut trees, especially the orange, and the vineyards may be seen carefully kept and in the most thriving condition.  It is in this way that the country seems, and really is, an outgrowth of the city.</p><P>"The <HI REND="italics">dolce far niente</HI>
203.sgm: has not yet, in the slightest degree, weighed down the wings of American energy.  This may be abundantly seen in their railroad building and other costly enterprises, and the indications of an extraordinary degree of public spirit that may be observed at every turn, and felt in the very atmosphere.  They believe their city and county to be the choicest part of the earth, and are determined that no one shall have it his power to point out wherein it is wanting.  Nor are the people in any other part of the State half as able to carry out any enterprise of public utility upon which they may determine.  Trade and the movement of business may seem sluggish, yet the real aggregate prosperity of the city and county is unbounded.  The exports exceed the imports in the proportion of at least three to one.  Large numbers of people are either rich or rapidly becoming so.  Yet this great and constant influx of wealth is a silent and hardly perceptible operation.  The valuable productions of the country, chiefly wine, semi-tropical fruits, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:wool, etc., employ but little labor.  The financial affairs of the county are certainly in a most healthy condition, even if money is not quite so plentifully and generally circulated as a communist might wish.  But by and by the men of wealth will begin to invest immense sums in building, in luxury, the gratification of taste, and the love of the beautiful.  Then money, through the abundant employment that will be given the laboring classes, will circulate more freely.  The people of a country that exports more than is imported, with the absolute certainty that this state of things is to continue, are justified in the indulgence of the most pleasing and the grandest anticipations.  It is hard to make an investment of a public or private nature that is not sure to pay.  Hence whatever is undertaken is engaged in with confidence and energy, and the interest that is taken does not slacken after the first novelty is over."</p><P>The other extract is from the San Diego World, and is very pictorial and brief:</p><P>"We have never permitted ourselves to entertain a doubt but that of all the richly endowed counties of California, those which form the southern tier are destined to furnish the brightest exemplars of the ease, elegance, and opulence which lie open to men of moderate means, industry and enterprise on the Pacific coast, Los Angeles is, to-day, the most beautiful section in the United States.  All the beauties which the curious eye of Childe Harold saw in Spain-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>`Vales that teem with fruits, romantic hills'</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>stud the country which intervene between Wilmington and Spadra.  Great wealth has already been amassed there, and what Dr. Johnson called the `potentialities of untold wealth,' are still to be found in Los Angeles County, in unstinted measure.  Were the Congress of the United States to extend tomorrow, to the numerous and wealthy community of Los Angeles, one third the favor which for years have been lavished upon the few men who own the Onondago Salt Manufactory, in the State of New York, the wealth of Los Angeles would be trebled or quadrupled at a blow.  Were a very slight protection given to American wines and brandies, and the subterfuges of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER VIII.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>THE STAPLE PRODUCTIONS OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY--THE CULTIVATION OF THE OLIVE, THE ORANGE, LEMON, LIME, CITRON, FIG, POMEGRANATE, ALMOND AND ENGLISH WALNUT--GOV. JOHN G. DOWNEY ON ORANGE CULTURE--THE CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE, AND THE MANUFACTURE OF WINE AND BRANDY.</p><P>The staple productions of Los Angeles county are enumerated in the railroad table of exports published in the preceding chapter, and no such list of productions can be shown in a report of exports from any other section of the world.  I claim that tabular statement as the crown of my book, because it presents figures which cannot betray the truth.  The great staples, however, in an agricultural way, are the juices of the grape, the orange, olive, lemon, lime, citron, English walnut, fig, pomegranate and almond, and while it would take a large volume to elaborate upon their cultivation, I think I can present satisfactory information in one chapter.</p><P>The olive, the most noble of all the fruits of the world, was introduced into Semi-tropical California a hundred years ago, by the old Franciscan padres, who also brought with them the common sweet orange and the mission grape.  The olive is not strictly a semi-tropical fruit, yet thrives the best in a dry country, like Mexico and the south of Europe.  The olive is a native of the temperate sea coast ridges of Asia and Africa, but has been cultivated in all the countries in the south of Europe, since the dates of their existence.  This noble fruit, to a great extent, constitutes the meat and bread and cream and butter of the people of Italy and Spain, and is largely used in a variety of ways in France and Mexico.  In these countries the olive enters into almost every kind of cookery.  Except for its invaluable oil in salad making, it is very little used in our country outside of California; and here, Americans only use it in the form of pickle or oil.  The natives, however, use it in a variety of ways; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:two inches deep, leaving two buds upon the vine above the surface.  If the ground is dry, the cuttings need frequent irrigation during the first year.  The second year they need to be irrigated but once or twice.  The third year the vines begin to bear, averaging from three to six pounds each, but sometimes yielding from ten to twelve.  The sixth year the vine is in full growth and full bearing order, but still improves up to its sixtieth year, when it begins to decay, yet continues to yield until a hundred (and sometimes many more) years old.</p><P>The manufacture of wine and brandy, as the reader may readily be aware, constitutes one of the chief features of money-making in Los Angeles county, and is a high branch of agriculture, as it is technically considered.  The manufacture of wine commences about the first of October, or as soon as the grape shall obtain complete ripeness, which may be tested by pulling the fruit from the stem and leaving no juice upon it.  The branches are cut off, and great care is exercised not to injure the fruit until it is ready for the press, when the bunches are cut from the branch, and the ripe, sound grapes selected from the unripe and rotten ones, and passed through a sieve, leaving the stems and leaves above.</p><P>There are, as is well known, two natural colors to wines--the white and the red.  The white wine is the first and most natural.  To make white wine, the pulp is pressed and removed so soon as the process of washing or pressing has ceased; if the wine is to be red, the pulp is kept standing from five to ten days, thus permanently communicating to the juice the coloring of the skin and meat.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>93</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER IX.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>THE MINERAL DEPOSITS OF SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA--SOME FACTS ABOUT THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD--THE SAN GABRIEL PLACER MINES AND THE SOLEDAD QUARTZ LEADS--THE ZAPATA SILVER MINE--THE GREAT OIL REPOSITORIES OF VENTURA AND LOS ANGELES COUNTIES--THE MANUFACTURE OF SALT.</p><P>IT IS not generally known that the first discovery of gold in California was made in Los Angeles county--an event barely mentioned in the history of California, and never recognized in its poetry or song.</p><P>The excitement of 1848 may truthfully be called the era of gold, the commencement of which electrified both continents.  But the discovery of the precious metal must ever bear the imprint of "Abel Stearns, Los Angeles County, California, 1833."  For here, in this delightful garden, teeming with fruits and flowers, Midas, of the golden touch, serenely wandered, leaving behind him sparkling footprints--quenching his thirst at many a babbling stream, which each in turn thereafter swept, like the Pactolus, over aurific sands.</p><P>The first gold known to exist in what is now California, was discovered by a native in the gravel hills of the upper border of Los Angeles eounty, in 1833.  Don Abel Stearns, who came here from Boston in 1829, examined the precious particles; he subsequently sent specimens of the glittering dust to the Philadelphia mint, and received from that establishment shortly afterward not only a receipt therefor, but gold coins manufactured from the dust transmitted--and this in 1833, fifteen years prior to the real carnival of gold.</p><P>Mr. Charles Nordhoff, writing to the New York <HI REND="italics">Tribune</HI>
203.sgm:, pleasantly alludes to a country wagon in January filled with oranges, onions, wine, brandy, lemons, potatoes, strawberries, radishes, etc., as a happy way of illustrating the incomparable wealth of the agricultural and pomological varieties and seasons <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>94</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:gentlemen met a merchant named Gilbert, who not only directed them to the vast asphaltum beds upon the Ojai ranch, less than ten miles from the town, but informed them that he had a small refinery about seven miles up the river, at which he had manufactured, a year or two before, four hundred barrels of oil.  Professor Silliman thereupon carefully examined the entire section, and made his views the subject of an elaborate report.</p><P>With an eye always open for big things, Professor Silliman at once wrote letters to certain wealthy gentlemen in New York and Philadelphia, in which he strongly recommended the purchase of the Ojai ranch, and the shipment of machinery for the manufacture of oil.  The Professor said in one of his letters, which I was shown by Col. Thomas Scott the last time I was in Philadelphia:</p><P>"The property covers an area of 18,000 acres of land in one body, on which there are at least twenty natural oil wells, some of them of the largest size.  The oil is struggling to the surface at every available point, and is running away down the rivers for miles and miles.  Artesian wells will be fruitful along a double line of thirteen miles--say, for at least twenty-five miles in linear extent.  The ranch is an old Spanish grant of four leagues of land, lately confirmed, and of perfect title.  It has, as I have stated, about 18,000 acres in it of the finest land, watered by four rivers, and measures, in a straight line, in all, nearly thirteen miles-- <HI REND="italics">but its great value is its almost fabulous wealth in the best oil</HI>
203.sgm:."</p><P>The ranch was immediately purchased, machinery for the boring of wells, etc., was sent out from New York, comprising three engines, a refinery, furnace, retort, and all kinds of drill tools, piping material, barrels, etc., etc.  Houses, workshops, and derricks were built, and other preparations were made for the boring of oil on an extensive scale, which commenced in June, 1855, and ceased in four years, after an expenditure of nearly $200,000.</p><P>I visited this entire region in the fall of 1868, in company with Mr. Thomas K. Bard, the Superintendent, and made some elaborate notes thereon.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:what may be technically termed a sulphur mountain, the stratification dipping on either side of the mountain to the axis.</p><P>It is seen on both sides of a mountain that at a certain stratification are all of the outcrops of oil.  The tunneling process, which has been carried on in both of these counties, has proved that these beds of asphaltum, which exist in hundreds of places, is oil changed by oxydization.  Where the shale has been exposed, oil is found flowing freely, but when the outcrop has been covered to any extent by slides and <HI REND="italics">debris</HI>
203.sgm:, it is invariably found to be changed into tar.</p><P>There are on foot, I understand, contemplated operations in this locality.  If such is the case, let the company who operate procure the services of some expert, and let the search for light and saleable oil be made near the apex of the mountain, and in close proximity to the known petroleum measures, and not in the particular neighborhood of the outcrops.</p><P>There are a number of valuable asphaltum deposits in Los Angeles county, the principal ones being in the Can&tilde;ada de la Brea, near Los Nietos, and the other on the plains near Cahuenga Pass, about seven miles from the ocean, and a little less than that distance from Los Angeles.</p><P>The latter beds are remarkable for their size and wealth, extending, here and there, over a large section of country, and known to be thirty feet in depth.  It is here that Major Hancock has asphaltum works, and with six men prepares for market and shipment from two to three tons per day of a material manufactured by boiling.  The crude brea, or asphaltum, is placed in large cauldrons, and boiled twelve hours, over a hot fire, during which the sediment is precipitated, and the scoria skimmed off; after which the preparation is run off into ditches charged with sand, through which the tar is moulded into shape for shipment.  The reduction is just one third, in scoria and sediment, mostly the latter, and constitutes the entire fuel used for said reduction.</p><P>This prepared asphaltum enters largely into the construction of roofing and sidewalks in San Francisco, and into the manufacture of gas in Los Angeles.</p><P>Next to coal and iron, there is no mineral of such absolute necessity as salt.  There are a number of saline springs and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>102</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:a quarter of an acre to two or three acres in size.  These are separated from each other by low stone walls, which serve also as walks.  In the middle of these walls is an impervious clay, which prevents the passage of water from one tank to another, unless by the little gateways or sluices, through which the supply is regulated.  The water in these pans is found in all stages of evaporation.  In some you see the clear, limpid water of the ocean; in others it has a roiled appearance, and, when far advanced in the process, it assumes a beautiful pink color.  The first pond allows the subsidence of the mud and other physical impurities, and is, consequently, the deepest.</p><P>As the fluid runs from tank to tank, it gradually becomes thicker, giving up its water and becoming more and more concentrated, until it reaches the last and shallowest pan, where crystals appear on its surface.  These first crystals are the purest, and are raked off with an iron hoe.  Exposed for a still longer time, more crystals form, but these mostly collect on hte bottom and sides, and are scraped off when the "mother liquor" is drawn away.  They are then hauled in carts to the beach, where piles, like great, white snow-banks, may be seen from the ship's deck.</p><P>The salt is more or less impure--the chief impurity being chloride of magnesium--and, to get rid of this, the heaps are covered with straw and hay; the chloride of magnesium, being deliquescent, absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and drains off, leaving the pure chloride of sodium--common salt--behind.  To produce the same result, sometimes slaked lime is placed in the last tanks.  The making of salt by solar evaporation depends greatly upon the absence of rain; and Turk's Island has this advantage, as well as extreme heat in summer.  In addition, the trade winds constantly agitate the surface of the ponds, and thus facilitate evaporization.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER X.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>IRRIGATION--THE PROCESS OF CULTIVATING LANDS BY THE INTRODUCTION OF WATER THROUGH ARTIFICIAL CANALS--GOVERNOR DOWNEY'S VIEWS ON IRRIGATION.</p><P>IT must be understood that, during the dry months, all of the beautiful vineyards and orchards of Los Angeles have to be watered through an artificial process, a system of irrigation that can be hardly comprehended in the east, where, even during the hottest months, the passing cloud is invited, by the moisture of the atmosphere, to sprinkle its contents upon the thirsty vegetation.</p><P>That nature has been bountiful in this section, all declare with one accord.  Yet the entire success attending certain neat agriculture here, depends upon the artificial introduction of water upon the lands.  A great deal, if not, indeed, all of this delightful garden, would have remained unreclaimed from the desert, were it not for the system of irrigation.  It is the water, and not the land, comparatively speaking, that is the source of so much wealth in Los Angeles county.  The question is not "how much land have you got?" but "how much water?'  An acre of land, bounded by rich, swelling, irrigating ditches, is worth from $30 to $1,000 unimproved; lands which cannot be irrigated may be purchased for the same number of half-dimes.</p><P>The process of cultivating land by the introduction of water through artificial canals, etc., says an old work upon irrigation, is as old as the world itself, and has been carried on from time immemorial.  As far back as the days of Moses, the process of irrigation was carried on.  In fact, there are several beautiful passages in the Old Testament with reference to it.  In the eleventh chapter of Deuteronomy, tenth verse, Moses clearly sets forth that the land of Egypt was cultivated entirely through the process of artificial irrigation.  He says to the people:</p><P>"For the land whither thou goest in to possess it, is not as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:the land of Egypt, from whence ye came out.  There thou sowedst thy seed and <HI REND="italics">wateredst with thy foot</HI>
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203.sgm:county and the people of the whole State, with a degree of fear that individual interests will clash with any system that may be proposed for the general good.  First of all, the paucity of rain-fall renders irrigation a necessity for the greater part of our lands.  Secondly, as a fertilizer, it perpetually renovates our fields, as the waters carry in solution nearly all the elements required for the organic composition of vegetable life.  Thirdly, it enables the farmer to select his time of planting and harvesting; and, fourthly, it enables him to destroy the numerous pests that infest his soil, in the shape of squirrels, gophers, rats, etc.  I do not propose to deprive any man of the use of water that he now has, nor do I think that any legislature would attempt to legislate away any rights vested or acquired; but for the good of the whole State, I suggest that the commonwealth assert its jurisdiction over every stream in the State, and enact such equitable laws as will extend their usefulness to their utmost capacity.  The riparian rights, or proprietary rights, maintained in England, and recognized in many of our States as the law governing rivers and streams, do not apply to California.  The laws of Spain and Mexico retained these in their sovereign capacity, and the State of California falls heir to this precious inheritance for the benefit of its citizens.  It will be seen by an examination of the eight hundred and odd grants made to citizens of this State by those governments, that this right is expressly reserved to the nation as public <HI REND="italics">servitudis</HI>
203.sgm:.  If, then, our legislature assumes its proper jurisdiction, it will be no stretch of power to prescribe the mode and manner of the distribution of this important element, and settle at once a subject that has given so much annoyance.</p><P>"The law of proprietary rights existing in England was once the law of France and the other continental communities, but Louis XIV had the wisdom to see that it was embarrassing the welfare of the nation, and that wise monarch caused the nation to assume exclusive control of the arteries of the nation's wealth, and his example has been followed by others.  The Republic of Chile has done likewise, and to this fact the beautiful systems of irrigation of Chile and Lombardy are indebted.</p><P>"There is, without doubt, sufficient water passing annually through this valley, under proper management, to irrigate all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:the legislature for the preservation and just distribution of the waters of our rivers and streams, their history in the past will warrant.</p><P>"That the time has arrived for legislative action to be taken is patent to all; that it should be general and properly guarded is manifest from the general voice of the whole people."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XI.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>THE VALLEY OF THE SAN GABRIEL--THE LOMBARDY OF SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA--A MAGNIFICENT PANORAMA OF VINEYARDS AND ORANGE GROVES--STONEMAN'S HOME--RANCHO DEL MOLINO--LAKE VINEYARD--SUNNY SLOPE--SANTA ANITA RANCH--AN EMINENT WRITER'S OPINION OF SAN GABRIEL--THE OLD MISSION CHURCH AND THE CHURCH OF OUR SAVIOUR.</p><P>I NOW have the honor of transporting my readers to the famous and beautiful valley of San Gabriel (the Lombardy of California), about nine miles distant from the city of Los Angeles.  No person visits Los Angeles who does not do San Gabriel.</p><P>It is related upon what is generally considered good authority, that a certain royal lady, upon her return from a visit to another royal personage of the opposite sex, to whose court she had been attracted by accounts of its unparalleled magnificence, remarked that "the half had not been told her" concerning its splendor.  I had read and heard during a residence of several years in California, a great deal about the beauty, fertility and productiveness of San Gabriel, but the half thereof had never been told me, nor did I have any adequate conception of the true character either of the soil or climate of this portion of Los Angeles county.  And looking back upon the estimates which I had formed and the conclusions at which I had arrived, it cannot seem otherwise to me than that there must have been either a very superficial knowledge of the facts in the case, an inability to comprehend those facts, or else a studied purpose to misapprehend or misrepresent them upon the part of the writers to whom I had been accustomed to look for information on the subject.  I find the climate and the climatic record, the topography and the available resources of this portion of Semi-tropical California, so utterly different from my preconceived opinions upon the subject, that I hardly know how to reconcile the fact as it exists with the idea as originally formed.  It is claimed by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:all-important matter of water for irrigation will be fully understood from the sketches of the above-named estates which I shall hereafter furnish.</p><P>The lover of nature, whatever particular feature he or she may most particularly affect, can find in this highly favored region an epitome of all her charms.  From an eminence not half a mile from Gen. Stoneman's house can be seen Wilmington harbor through a depression in the foothills, which "with verdure clad" seems like an emerald frame for the beautiful picture; beyond, the sea gleams like a mirror, and now and then the eye can follow an outward-bound vessel, and watch <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Her tall masts fading to thinnest threads of gold,"</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>while dim, and seemingly far remote, the shadowy outline of Santa Catalina uprises like the type of those "happy isles" to which Ulysses thought he might attain,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"And see the great Achilles whom he knew."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>Looking westward, the line of vision is bounded by rolling foothills, while to the east the eye wanders over a broad and fertile plain, extending some twenty miles, its entire surface diversified with grove, orchard, vineyards, dwellings, school-houses, churches, and whatever else betokens the bounty of nature and the prosperity of man.  To the north, the coast range lifts its towering summits, at the very base of which are seen the cottages of those who have sought out the fertile nooks which there abound; and looking thitherward, one might, with scarcely an effort of the imagination, deem that he had been transported to the very scenes which England's nobly-born but misanthropic poet has immortalized in Manfred; and listening, might almost expect to hear the " <HI REND="italics">Ranz des vaches</HI>
203.sgm: " floating downward from those Alpine heights, or, by distance mellowed, catch the faint and far-off music of <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Pipes in the liberal air, mixed with the sweet bells of the sauntering herd."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>I spent a delightful hour with Gen. Stoneman at this point.  At our very feet, half hidden in a bosky dell, already embowered in densest foliage,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"A burnie wimpled doon the glen."</HI>
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203.sgm:<P>And if the Poet Laureate had never seen "The Brook," which he has made famous in song, and had been one of us, he would have made this very stream to say,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I chatter over stony ways<LB>In little sharps and trebles.<LB>I bubble into eddying bays,<LB>I babble on the pebbles,"</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>And so on to the end of that "word painting" of a crystal stream, except that he could not have said that in its waters could be found,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Here and there a lusty trout,<LB>And here and there a grayling."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>But the fortunate owner of this beautiful stream intends to remedy all that, and at no distant day to stock the stream with trout as well as the capacious reservoir into which it debouches with black bass.  Looking around me ere we turned our steps homeward, the words of the poet of the fields and forests of America came to my memory like an embodiment of the scene.  Well might he exclaim,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Oh, there is not lost<LB>One of earth's charms; upon her bosom yet,<LB>After the flight of untold centuries,<LB>The freshness of her far beginning lies,<LB>And yet shall lie."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>The further mountains showed only ghostly outlines in the gathering gloom, and <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Twilight grey<LB>Had in her sober livery all things clad,"</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>as we approached the house.  We had seen the spire of the Episcopal church, which forms so pleasing a feature in the bosom of the valley, pale and fade from sight; the lofty walls of the old Mission of San Gabriel were no longer visible.  Suddenly from out the silence and gathering shades fell upon our ears a chime so musical and sweet, so spiritually clear and delicate, that had honest John Bunyan heard it, he might well have deemed himself arrived at the land of Beulah, "where the sun shineth night and day," and listening to the melody of the bells <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:wherewith the Pilgrim is greeted when he reaches that delightful country.  I turned to my companion for a solution of the mystery.  It was the hour of vespers at the old Mission.  In an instant I was, in fancy at least, "In the Acadian land on the shores of the basin of Minas."  The rest of the picture.  It is not painted by Longfellow in that matchless story wherein he has embalmed the memory, the life-long sorrow, the triumphant faith, the deathless love of the sweetest and saddest woman who ever lent a charm to poet's page?  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Then came the laborers home from the field, and serenely the sun sank<LB>Down to his rest, and twilight prevailed.  Anon from the belfry<LB>Softly the Angelus sounded, and over the roofs of the village<LB>Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending,<LB>Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>Twenty-eight years ago, General Geo. Stoneman, then a lieutenant in the United States army, camped with his command, after a day's march, upon the spot which he is now converting into one of the most beautiful estates in California.  To use his own language, the site which he has chosen as his homestead was "his first love"--that is to say, so far as regards his choice for a home.  More fortunate than most men, he has lived to realize his dreams, and his selection does infinite credit to his taste.  He purchased, some four years ago, five hundred acres, paying then for it an average price of $50 per acre.  He has disposed of about one hundred acres in small tracts at $100 per acre, and the same land cannot be bought to-day for less than $150 per acre.  The four hundred acres remaining he has named "Los Robles," the generic Spanish for "The Oaks," a beautiful natural park of which skirts the southern boundary of his lands, which form a portion of the old Gallardo grant, formerly known as "Pasqualitos."  An extended and agreeable ramble, not long since, accompanied as I was by the General, over the entire estate, led me to the conclusion that he was the fortunate owner of the most beautiful property I had seen in Los Angeles county; but subsequent similar tours of observation over other estates in that section convinced me that I had visited a region where a man has no business whatever to concern himself in the least about degrees of comparison, since he can go in no direction without finding fresh miracles of loveliness unfolding themselves in ever-varying forms at every step he takes.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>118</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>The bosky dell spoken of above is one of the loveliest nooks imaginable.  If it is not like that "green nook" spoken of in "Festus," <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Shaded by larch and hornbeam, ash and yew,"</HI>
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203.sgm:he, to use his own expression, "determined to make steam power and the power of gravitation do all that could be done in the premises."  His press, receiving vats, tanks, etc., were therefore built upon successive terraces, and from the first expression of the must, to its final delivery into packages for market, a succession of easy falls supplies and takes the place of the repeated handlings and pumpings which take up so much of the time and so large a share of the net profits of other less well-arranged establishments.  The distillation of his brandy is effected by steam power, just exactly how I do not believe I can intelligently explain.  The General, however, will take pleasure in explaining the <HI REND="italics">modus operandi</HI>
203.sgm:.  He has provided himself with all the means and appliances for all necessary repair to his farm-tools and machinery; a portable army forge and complete kits of carpenters' and coopers' tools leave little room for delay when anything from a swingle-tree to the piston-rod of his steam engines gets out of order.  He has introduced what seemed to me a most marked and valuable improvement in the running gear of his plows.  Instead of a swingle-tree twenty inches long, with iron ends to hold the traces in their place, he passes a leather trace over and around a fourteen-inch swingle-tree, and the result is that the horse or mule passes through the vineyard with the plow attached, without barking a vine or breaking off a bud.</p><P>Intelligence has set itself to work on General Stoneman's place with a view to "labor saving," and will accomplish the result aimed at.  It is his intention to build large reservoirs at several points on his estate.  At "Los Robles" I saw for the first time what I had often heard of an orange tree, upon which there were ripe fruit, fruit half grown, and orange blossoms lovely enough to adorn the brow of a bride.  Near by was another marvel of nature; a rose-bush, the parent trunk of which is fifteen inches in diameter, some of the branches of which are full sixty feet in length, since they have climbed to the top of an oak tree, and depending thence, trail nearly upon the ground.</p><P>The interior arrangements of the General's homestead are in keeping with the beauty and wealth of the exterior.  Books, new and old; pictures and engravings, rare and elegant, in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:endless profusion; music; a hospitable and charming hostess, healthy and smiling and happy children; in short, all that can be desired to make a pleasant home, ought to make the possessor of "The Oaks" a contented man.</p><P>One hundred and one years ago, the San Franciscan fathers, who planted the Mission of San Gabriel, erected a building to be used as a storehouse and grist-mill.  The walls of the structure remain to-day intact, and enclose the hospitable residence of Col. E. J. C. Kewen, who some dozen or so years ago selected some four hundred and fifty acres of the adjacent land as the site of his future residence.  He found the old building roofless, floorless, doorless and windowless.  The massive foundation walls five feet thick, flanked by heavy buttresses, and the upper walls, scarcely less massive, had, however, withstood the storms of nearly a century, and the building was soon converted into a comfortable and picturesque residence, which, embowered as it is in a tropical wealth of fruits and flowers, forms one of the chief attractions of the tourist and the stranger.  Not only the tourist and the stranger, however, take it in in the round of visits.  Col. Kewen's friends and acquaintance (and their name is legion) count themselves fortunate in possessing the <HI REND="italics">entree</HI>
203.sgm: to the generous cheer, "the feast of reason and the flow of soul," which he is ever ready to dispense with lavish hand.  On my arrival at "The Mill," I found my host busily at work superintending and assisting the work of arranging the beautiful parterre in front of his residence, and was speedily made to feel at home.  Books and cigars were placed at my disposal, and I had nothing to do but "take mine ease."  A glance from the sitting-room window revealed a beautiful lake which lent a new and most attractive feature to the scenery, and at length, after a cozy bachelor dinner, the accomplished mistress of the mansion being absent on a visit to her friends, I accompanied my host on a ramble through his grounds.  Other estates in the vicinity, whose proprietors have given their whole attention to their improvement, have, during the whole period which Col. Kewen has spent on his place, become more productive; but only a few years will elapse before the mill ranch will vie with its neighbors in affording a princely income to its genial proprietor, who for years past has been wrangling in law courts, but who now <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:finds himself nearly ready to bid adieu to their interminable labyrinths.  Two hundred acres of the ranch are enclosed, upon which there are 50,000 vines, which last year produced ninety tons of grapes, which were sold to neighboring vintners.  There are 100 orange trees in bearing, and 2,500 of various ages which in a very few years will hang full of the golden fruit; 600 lemon and 500 lime trees, and 700 English walnut trees, all arrived at maturity, besides pecan, black walnut and hickory trees, which will soon swell the list of products.  There are also, besides the fruits of the temperate zone, two banana trees which are in fruit; and have already attained a height of about eighteen feet.  The Colonel is an enthusiast upon the subject of grain and fruit-growing, and now that he is in a position to give his undivided attention to his farm, it is as certain as anything can be that all its natural charms and advantages will be enhanced and developed by whatever a refined and cultivated and poetical taste can suggest in the premises.  Already fountains, flowers and grassy lawns point to a future which will make "Rancho del Molino" a garden of Gul, and if the music of the "enamoured nightingale" shall be lacking, the mocking birds will furnish the melody to fill up the pauses of conversation of the cultivated men and women whose feet will instinctively turn thitherward as to one of the <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Delphian vales,<LB>he Meccas of the mind."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>I write thus glowingly of the mill ranch, not from a desire to indulge in fulsome adulation, for I think that nothing is more foreign to my nature than a disposition to wander in that direction, but as a simple tribute to the pleasurable emotions which I experienced during my sojourn with my host, who was a stranger to me until I entered within his gates.</p><P>"Rancho del Molino" is another of those favored spots which, by location and surroundings, is exempt from any possibility of a failure of crops, the supply of water being perennial and capable of very great increase, not half the present supply being utilized.</p><P>I now proceed to Lake Vineyard, presided over by J. De Barth Shorb, Esq., son-in-law of the proprietor, Don Benito <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:Wilson, whose name is a household word in Los Angeles county.  A portion of the original estate has been segregated, and is now the property of Mr. Shorb, and known as Mount Vineyard.  Lake Vineyard consists of 1,300 acres; Mount Vineyard of 500; and eleven and one half miles of picket and capped board fence enclose and subdivide the two ranches.  A few figures will give some idea of the extent of the operations on this estate.  Lake Vineyard has 102,000 vines; Mount Vineyard 129,000.  Bearing orange trees on the former, 1,600; on the latter, 450; young trees on the former, 750; on the latter, 1,200; lemon trees on each place, 250; limes on the two places, 300; olive trees, 500; walnut 450.  The vintage of 1873 amounted to 75,000 gallons, exclusive of the spirit used in preparing the wine, and 5,000 gallons of brandy.  There are in store in the cellars of Lake Vineyard between 85,000 and 90,000 gallons.  There were shipped from the two orangeries during the present season, over one million of oranges.  The lemon crop amounted to nearly, if not quite, 75,000.  These figures ought to give some idea of the magnitude of the business carried on in the two vineyards, and the executive ability required for its successful management.  Mr. Shorb, who has entire control of both estates, is fully equal to the emergency, and under his supervision, everything goes on like clock work.  It must not be supposed, however, that the two vineyards comprise all that requires looking after.  Immediately west of Lake Vineyard, a new estate has been founded, to which the name of Oak Knoll has been given, upon which 30,000 cuttings of the raisin grape and 1,275 orange trees have already been planted, with more to follow.  "Oak Knoll" is projected on <HI REND="italics">mesa</HI>
203.sgm: (table land), probably two hundred feet above the level of the valley; and not long since was a tangled jungle of scrub oaks, grease-wood and underbrush, but is now as clear of stumps as if it had been in cultivation for half a century.  Three thousand feet of four-inch pipe convey the water necessary for irrigating purposes throughout the grounds, and hydrants at the proper distances furnish the water in such quantities as are required, and no greater.  Besides the three vineyards, fifteen hundred acres in grain yearly require some attention, and large outlying tracts of pasture land furnish sustenance to a herd of about two hundred sleek and well-fed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:cattle, most of them "Alderneys," and many of them pretty as a picture, in addition to which there is quite a <HI REND="italics">caballado</HI>
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203.sgm:<P>Such men have yet to learn that California is, of all the places in the world, the place where men should always bear in mind the assertion made somewhere by somebody "there is no such word as fail."  Aye! and live up to it too.  There are more "ups and downs" in California than anywhere else "on the footstool."  I met an old friend during my stay in this region.  He used to "mine it."  He lost his pile--a good many thousand dollars.  He did not give up.  He could work, and came down into this country and went to work--plowed, reaped, drove wagon.  He has saved up two or three thousand, is about to buy a few acres; in a few years will pick his own oranges, and sit under his own vine and fig tree, with none to molest and make him afraid.  I have described a number of large estates.  It is not given to all men to possess the creative and executive ability necessary to build up such properties.  Some men are contending with the day of small things.  Their lives run always in that groove.  They succeed in a small way, and are content with their surroundings.  There are many such in this region.  Take one example.  A near neighbor of Col. Kewen and Mr. Shorb was, five years ago, a tenant-at-will of Don Benito Wilson--a small tract of fifteen acres was allotted to him.  In two years, by economy and hard labor, he owned those fifteen acres.  To-day he owns nearly a hundred.  He values his possessions at $15,000; could probably obtain that amount for them.  But it is the labor he has put upon the place, the orange and fruit trees and vines he has planted, the houses he has built, the fences he has put up, which gives the place its value.  His children make his home pleasant, and when he crosses the threshold at evening,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Run to lisp their sire's return,<LB>And climb his knees, the envied kiss to share."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>This man was not disheartened by a first failure.  In all probability he had suffered a dozen defeats, for there was silver in his hair before he commenced work where he now is; neither was he cast down by the prosperity of his neighbor.  The secret of his success lay in two words, "economy and hard work."  The same result can be accomplished by whoever else will use the same means.  The land is here, the opportunity is not <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:wanting.  Men who have the sound sense necessary to realize the situation will be made welcome.  Those who imagine that any other combination of elements will give them a home or an estate in this valley had better keep away.  The very air is slumberous to the slothful.  Sleepy Hollow was not a circumstance to it.  Rip Van Winkle's little nap of twenty years was a mere afternoon's siesta compared to the fit of drowsiness which will overtake them if they come here expecting to make a living without work.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Not poppy, nor mandragora,<LB>Nor all the drowsy syrups of the East can medicine them to such a sleep"</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>as will overtake them if they expect the earth in this locality to give forth her increase without being incited thereto by honest and continuous labor.</p><P>I will now quit the lovely San Gabriel Valley, personally; but I will leave the reader with Mr. James J. Ayers, one of the most graceful, reliable, and widely known of eminent California writers and journalists.  He lately visited the Lombardy of Semi-tropical California, and stamps his impression as follows:</p><P>"There were four of us, with one of the finest turn-outs to be had in a Los Angeles stable, who skimmed away yesterday morning in the direction of San Gabriel Mission.  The morning was delightful, and although the uplands and hills have, just now, a very dry and faded appearance, the evidence everywhere that hay and grain had waved in delightful freshness on those very spots but a few weeks ago, took from them the repulsive idea of dreariness and waste which attaches to perpetually desert places.  Arriving at the Mission of San Gabriel, we drove through its quaint and picturesque avenue, skirted on either side by a limpid stream of irrigating water, and with here and there a cottage of modern architecture vainly struggling, amidst its dense foliage, for superior recognition among the weather-worn and ancient adobes which lord it in that curious old relic of a by-gone civilization, until we reached the monarch monument of them all, that old and rusty pile, the Mission Church.  The bells were ringing for the morning service, and curiosity, more potent, we fear, with us than holier attraction, drew us inside the portals of the ancient temple.  We were reminded by <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:quaint lettering on the columns which flank the door that there must be some people, arrogantly boastful of their higher civilization, who have at some time shocked and outraged the sense of propriety of the plain and primitive denizens of the Mission, for on one side we read.  `Take off your hats,' and on the other, `Behave yourselves.'  The letters were rudely drawn, but how much more rude and savage must have been the conduct that could have suggested such obvious behavior to an intelligent type of mankind from a people who, if they have no higher virtue, can put us to shame in the respect and veneration which they entertain for the House of God!  Our stay was short, but we had time to take a hasty survey of the <HI REND="italics">enceinte</HI>
203.sgm: of this ancient pile.  Its dinginess is hardly relieved by the bright ornamentation of the altar piece, and the old paintings that deck the walls are ensombered by the general gloom which pervades the building.  It differs in nothing materially from the generality of old California Mission churches, except that it is furnished with a row of pews on each side--an innovation which, however, we believe, is now being very generally followed.</p><P>"Emerging from the quiet old church, we drove back on the main street, until we reached the road leading into the Fruit Belt.  Arriving at Mr. Rose's fine place, we drove up his beautiful orange alameda, observing that everything on the place was kept in the most precise condition of order, and that neatness was universal.  Since we last visited this handsome orange plantation, Mr. Rose has completed his new residence.  It is a very tasteful piece of large-cottage architecture, and sufficiently orne&acute;e to gratify any dilettanti taste.  The mere drive through these grounds almost surfeits one with the variety and profuseness of nature, in this belt with her pomological generosity.  One passes through avenues now lined with orange trees, again with limes and lemons, then with fine lusty English walnuts, and anon with peaches, figs, apricots, etc.  All the fruits are now in fine condition, and the orange crop is particularly abundant and promising.</p><P>"From here we drove to the place of Mr. L. H. Titus, the `Dew Drop,' one of the most beautiful and promising vineyard-orchards in the whole belt.  The residence is picturesquely <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:situated, embowered in a perfect wealth of shade and fruit trees.  The largest mulberry tree we have ever seen throws its ample branches over the north porch.  There is always a cool breeze stirring at this point, and a more lovely residence we have rarely seen.  The barns and stables are in a hollow east of the house.  Here we had the pleasure of seeing the renowned stallion `Echo,' who had just made the trip down the coast.  He looks spare, but his coat shone like polished rosewood.  His eyes are bright with keenness and intelligence, and every point in him shows blood and speed.  We found Mr. Titus inspecting a new carriage-house he is building out of adobes, covered with a composition of cement, quicklime, etc., which form one of the most smooth, glossy and compact mastics we have ever seen.  The material for this building is preferred by Mr. Titus for various reasons: of temperature, durability and perfect rain-proof.  Just beyond the stables is a very extensive reservoir, supplied by a series of springs, which rise a short distance from the plantation.  It usually holds five feet of water, but there was only a depth of three feet yesterday.  From this reservoir Mr. Titus has an underground pipe, which leads to a gate in the immediate vicinity of another series of flowing springs.  These stand higher than the reservoir, and their water is gathered in a solid volume, and emptied into a pipe which connects also with the gate mentioned.  The pipe leading from the reservoir answers the twofold purpose of carrying the water from the great depository to the irrigating <HI REND="italics">acequias</HI>
203.sgm:, and of conveying the water from the last named springs to the reservoir.  Both flows are governed by the single gate referred to.  We have not seen a water system in the whole fruit belt which surpasses that of Mr. Titus.  Of an ingenious turn of mind and with physical energy to suit, instead of sticking to the primitive and wasteful system of the old period, he has intersected his rows of trees and vines with perfect aqueducts, made by himself out of sand, cement and quicklime.  They are there in permanent place, not subject to decay, without leakage, and performing their mission in the most satisfactory manner.  We have, in very sight, a contrast which shows the results between intelligent irrigatior and the old <HI REND="italics">laissez-faire</HI>
203.sgm: system.  Mr. Titus has about four thousand six-year old trees watered from his cement <HI REND="italics">acequias</HI>
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203.sgm:under its heavy burden of production; there grand old sycamores, mouth-watering peach-bearers, and an endless variety of shrubs and plants.  In the midst of this gorgeous profusion of giant growth and pigmy vegetation, rose the solid walls of the Kewen mansion.  Not a door or <HI REND="italics">jalousie</HI>
203.sgm: in the house was closed, but all open as day, emblematic of the knightly hospitality of the courteous master and gentle mistress of this fruit-belt castle.  But the shadows admonish us that we must hurry from this enchanting scene, and reluctantly we turned upon as lovely and picturesque a spot as ever gratified the longing eye of `Persian king or rude Hindoo pariah."</p><P>There are three old Mission structures in Los Angeles county, and among them none are more worthy of poetic notice than the Church of San Gabriel.  I commend the following unsurpassed description, therefore, with its melody of sad and exquisite apostrophies, by a correspondent of the Los Angeles Star, in place of my own:</p><P>MISSION CHURCH OF SAN GABRIEL,</p><P>Near Los Angeles, Cal., March 31, 1874.</p><P>"The space of an hundred years is but a span in the cycles of the ages.  But to the American, accustomed to fix the date of the settlement of California by his own race, within the lifetime of a generation, the sight of a building upon which the rains of a century have fallen, and upon which sun and moon and stars have shone while nearly four generations of men have been gathered to their fathers, suggests antiquity.  So imperfect, and to a great extent to the general reader inaccessible, are the records of the days when the Franciscan fathers planted the germs of their missions upon this coast, that legend and tradition, instead of the historic page, seem almost to be the proper media through which the acts of these apostles of the wilderness should be viewed.  Scattered here and there in public and private libraries, however, are manuscripts and musty tomes, upon the pages of which the story of their self-denying and self-sacrificing labors is inscribed in letters which will gleam with the light which shows "a good deed in a naughty world," when Time, the Destroyer, shall have leveled the temples which they builded to the dust, and the fate of Tyre shall <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>136</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:phonies but the winds, his zeal and ardor found utterance in the chant,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>`Vexilla Regis prodeunt,<LB>Fulget, Crucis Mysterium.'*<LB></HI>
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203.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n11-1"><P>"The banners of heaven's king advance, The mystery of the cross shines forth."<HSEP>"Standing to-day in the shadow of the old Mission church of San Gabriel, these thoughts suggested themselves as I looked upon its time-worn walls.  Long panoramas of desert journeyings, visions of old missions, some almost perfect in their preservation, like that of San Xavier del Bac, others merely grass-grown ruins, passed before me.  Entering the church, my resonant foot-falls as I passed up the spacious aisle, seemed like echoes from an almost forgotten past.  Memories of weary days in a barren land, thick strewn with memorials of the faith, whose emblems decked the altar which uprose before me, crowded upon me; and as I recalled my all but utter hopelessness of escape from the prison which disease and misfortune seemed to have builded for me in that burning clime, and compared the present with the past, it was as if a benediction had fallen upon me from invisible heights; and regaining the open air, and looking to the eastward, where the far-off Sierras shone in the light of the declining day, I could bear witness with the poet:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>`That care and trial seem at last<LB>In memory's sunset air,<LB>Like mountain ranges overpast,<LB>In purple distance fair.'</HI>
203.sgm:<P>"Lingering around the charmed precincts of this venerable pile, my foot-steps led me unconsciously to that portion of the grounds set apart as the City of the Dead.  `The frail memorials' erected to the memory of those who sleep in that consecrated ground were not, to me, at least, suggestive of such mournful feelings, as were the evidences of neglect apparent in the condition of the cemetery.  It is a lonely place, that burial ground.  The cross uplifts itself above full many a narrow mound.  Here and there a solitary grave seems to have been forgotten by those who bore its occupant to his long home.  Ah!  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>138</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:there are many such, the wide world over.  Many, above which the hand of affection would rear monuments as beautiful and chaste as ever made the sculptor's art immortal, did not `chill penury' forbid the execution of the pious task; but above such graves fall tears which consecrate, and around them cluster memories which make them beautiful forever.  I have seen them in the heart of the wilderness.  I know of one upon whose narrow precincts the last rays of the setting sun fall like a halo through an opening in the forest trees.  God's peace enfolds the little boy I laid away to rest forever in that far-off spot.  Ah!  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>LITTLE GUVVIE.<LB>If I could call thee back<LB>Across death's grewsome track,<LB>My baby, gone so early to thy Go--<LB>'Twere wrong to wish thee here,<LB>To tread with doubt and fear<LB>The burning shards thy father's feet have trod.<LB>My baby, my sweet child,<LB>`Untempted, undefiled,'I love thee with an all-absorbing love;<LB>But called to give thee up,<LB>I can but drain the cup,<LB>Since softly falling from thy home above,<LB>In accents full and clear,<LB>The Savior's voice I hear,<LB>Calling little children to His gracious arms;<LB>In that sure haven blest<LB>I know thou hast found rest<LB>And art safe, forever safe, from sin and its alarms.<LB>My baby, o'er thy grave<LB>Wild flowers and grasses wave,<LB>And wild birds warble all their sweetest songs;<LB>Sweet be thy dreamless sleep,<LB>The while I wake and weep,<LB>God's rest is thine; His peace to thee belongs.</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>"Here, among these unmarked graves, might Evangeline have come if her long wanderings had led her to this, as they did to that, Mission of the Black Robes, where her Gabriel was to her `so near and yet so far.'  Here might she, in the solemn hush of eventide, have</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>`Sat by some nameless grave and thought that perhaps, in its bosom<LB>He was already at rest, and longed to slumber beside him.'</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>"But it is time these musings had an end.  It is the vesper hour.  Long, long years ago, grandees and high-born dames, men and women of middle rank in life, and peasants, some bowed with age, and children of tender years, stood round a seething furnace in old Spain.  Ornaments of gold and silver were flung into the fiery mass.  Anon a chime of bells came from the master's hand.  With prayer and chant and benediction, they were given to the keeping of a galleon bound for this far-off land.  Propitious gales bore them in safety to the old embarcadero of the Mission of San Gabriel.  For many and many a year they have clamored at prime and flung their silvery music on the evening air.  The wedding feast has grown more joyous as they pealed out their congratulations; the solemn rites with which the dead are lain away have taken a deeper, if not a sadder, tinge, as they tolled a last farewell.  Long be it before their voices shall grow silent in the land.  They are but echoes of an endless chain of sound.  San Diego, San Xavier, St. Augustine, take up the choral strain and bear it along the shores of misty Atlantic until Canadian chapels catch the refrain.  Santa Barbara watches for the pulsing waves of melody, and sends them north until the furthest bounds of civilization are reached, and speeding across the continent, St. Boniface, on the Red River of the North, peals out a jubilant welcome to the wandering airs which come laden with the dying murmurs of the Mission bells." <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The voyageur smiles as he listens<LB>To the sound that grows apace,<LB>Well he knows the vesper ringing,<LB>Of the bells of St. Boniface.<LB>The bells of the Roman Mission<LB>That call from their turrets twain,<LB>To the boatman on the river<LB>To the hunter on the plain.<LB>And when the angel of shadow<LB>Rests his feet on wave and shore,<LB>And our eyes grow dim with longing,<LB>And our hearts grow faint at the oar,</HI>
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203.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Happy is he who heareth<LB>The signal of his release,<LB>In the bells of the holy city<LB>The chimes of eternal peace."</HI>
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203.sgm:gather within its sacred precincts.  With the exception of the labor contributed by the present pastor, Rev. Mr. Messenger, the entire expense of the construction of the edifice has been borne by the lady whose name I have already mentioned.  Desirous of leaving nothing undone, she authorized the purchase of a bell, which was a month or two ago effected, at Cincinnati, Ohio.</p><P>Rev. Mr. Messenger, the pastor of the church, deserves credit for the faithful manner in which he has obeyed the behests of the founder of this beautiful memorial of a living faith.  He has labored with his own hands to provide a subsistence for himself while he has supervised its erection, and has built up for himself a beautiful and attractive homestead.  A tract of three or four acres adjoining the church has been set apart as a cemetery, and when adorned and improved, as it is intended it shall be, by the gentlemen having the matter in charge, it will indeed be a spot in which the mourner can, if anywhere, lay the dead away to rest, conscious that nature could surround the grave, nowhere in all the wide world, with lovelier or more beautiful scenes.</p><P>The time is not far distant when other temples will arise in the lovely region already adorned by the beautiful edifice now sketched.  Let those which shall yet be built tower ever so proudly, not one of them will bear witness to a purer or more fervent faith than that which suggested and inspired the erection of the "Church of Our Saviour," which adorns and beautifies the valley of San Gabriel.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XII.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>DESCRIPTION OF ANAHEIM--A GLANGE AT A NOTED COLONY--THE REALM OF HYGEIA--A SKETCH OF VINE LANDS--A GREAT WINEMAKER--ANECDOTE OF BEN DREYFUS--A DRIVE AROUND THE SURROUNDINGS OF ANAHEIM--WESTMINSTER AND RICHLAND--ARTESIAN WELLS IN ABUNDANCE--SANTA ANA AND GOSPEL SWAMP--THE OLD MISSION RUINS OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.</p><P>THE next place of special interest in Semi-tropical California is Anaheim, distant by rail about twenty-seven miles from Los Angeles, and one of the most noted places in Los Angeles county.</p><P>The stranger, entering this pleasant little town from the north, as I did, meets, a mile or so out in the suburbs, with a marked suggestion of the future character of its surroundings in the handsome villa of Mr. Saxon (a whilom habitue of Wall street, New York); with its tastefully-arranged park.  It will not be many years before numbers of wealthy men, like the gentleman just named, will emulate his example in retiring from the noise and bustle of commercial and stock dabbling life, and build comfortable and elegant retreats like his, in which to pass the evening of life, amid the beautiful scenery and health-giving surroundings of Semi-tropical California.  The town itself, at first sight, does not differ materially from dozens of other small places which I have been in and passed through without stopping to admire.  But the place has a history.  I heard it from the lips of one of its pioneers; not, however, until I had been driven to Anaheim Landing, through one of the richest grazing countries I have ever passed through; and really after that drive, I did not think the founders of this colony had done much to brag of, seeing that they had had, as I supposed, a fertile plain out of which to carve their homesteads, and create their fifty odd vineyards, orchards and gardens.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:twenty-acre tracts, which cost $40 fourteen years ago, sold the other day for $6,000, and is considered very cheap at that.</p><P>A walk or drive through the green lanes dividing the vineyards reveals upon each twenty-acre lot a neat, tasty, comfortable house, every one of which boasts its flower garden and grass plats.  An air of thrift and homelike comfort is the prevailing characteristic.  The public buildings consist of a Presbyterian and a Catholic church; a Masonic hall, which cost $4,000; an Odd Fellows hall, costing $9,000, the former a frame building, the latter a brick; two hotels, the Planters and the Anaheim; and a school house, costing about $2,000.  The lower portion of the Masonic hall building is also used for school purposes.  There is also a comfortable public hall used for the purposes to which such buildings are usually applied.  When Anaheim was first taken possession of by the colonists, there was not a settlement between the town and the ocean, a distance of some twelve or thirteen miles.  All that is changed, and I find myself somewhat at a loss to know just how to write of said transformation.  The French, when they find themselves surrounded by a superabundance of the good and beautiful, either in nature or art, give it up, shrugh their shoulders, and exclaim, " <HI REND="italics">un embarras du riches,</HI>
203.sgm: " and stay to admire or pass on to remember.  It is even so with me in writing of this wonderful county of Los Angeles.  I hardly know how to go about conveying any idea of the marvelous productiveness of soil and inexhaustible wealth of resources.</p><P>So rapid has been the growth of the town of late years, that it has been found necessary to increase the original limits to meet the demand for building lots.  The town site now embraces 3,200 acres instead of 1,165, as originally laid out.  It is not alone, however, as having successfully demonstrated the capacity of a repulsive looking cactus plantation for the successful production of grapes, oranges, grains, vegetables, small fruits, and in fact everything necessary to support life, that these plodding and irrepressible Anaheimers have, while benefitting themselves, conferred a benefit upon the entire country.  Nearly in the center of the settlement, a parallelogram of Lombardy poplars, from eight inches to fifteen in diameter, and from sixty to seventy feet high, the growth of eight years, show <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>One of the features of Anaheim is the establishment of Mr. B. Dreyfus, who owns about two hundred acres of the vineyards in this vicinity.  His annual vintage, the season being propitous, averages about 175,000 gallons, the whole of which finds a market at the east.  You have probably heard the story about the western cider maker.  His cider had a reputation second to none.  So did he--for stinginess.  He was never known to offer a glass of his apple juice to anybody--that is, as a gift.  He would furnish it, however, in any quantity on the production of the collateral.  Finally, however, an individual who prided himself on his insinuating address, made a small bet that he would worm an invitation to drink out of the old cider hunks.  "The man that bet" called on the cider maker.  He praised his house, his orchard, his barns, his horses, his dogs, his wife, his children, and, as a <HI REND="italics">piece de resistance</HI>
203.sgm:, exclaimed "Mr. Hunks, the community owe you a debt of gratitude for the reputation you have succeeded in establishing for the cider of this region.  I am told that you make a very superior article."  The cider man was evidently pleased.  He rose, smiling, stepped to the cellar door, and disappeared.  Anon, he returned.  He held a beaker of the amber fluid in his hand.  He raised it tenderly toward the light.  He gazed at it long and lovingly, slowly raised it to his lips, quaffed the contents to the utmost drop, and, handing the empty goblet to his visitor, remarked, "My friend, your head is eminently level.  If you think I do not make good cider, just smell that glass."  The visitor aforesaid lost his bet, but that is neither here nor there.</p><P>Mr. Dreyfus has a reputation for wine making fully equal to that achieved by the cider man.  He does not, however, ask his guests to smell the glass only, but sets the best he has before them.  If, however, they do no more than smell the glass they will find that there lingers therein an aroma which renders "a bush" unnecessry.  He informs me that the character of the wine formerly shipped east by California vintners had for a long time a depressing effect on the market, but that the prejudice thereby created has been measurably removed, and the future of the trade is well assured.  Mr. D. has recently assumed control of the Cucamonga vineyard, and will, as a matter of course, largely increase his manufacture.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:of verbena, gilli flower, heliotrope and other bright bloomers, lent a delightful variety to the charming scene.  Thousands upon thousands of fruit trees have been set out, and the work still goes on.  Richland proper is about three miles square, and embraces about 7,000 acres, only 1,500 of which remain unsold.  There is a town plat in the centre of forty acres, with iron supply pipes in the principal streets.  Unimproved land is held at from fifteen to twenty-five dollars per acre.  After it has been plowed once, nothing short of sixty dollars can touch it.  Improved places, when they change hands, readily bring one hundred dollars per acre.  All of these improvements are the work of less than three years.  There are about one hundred families in the settlement, and, as may be expected, they have built an elegant and comfortable school-house.  I look upon the growth of Richland as being quite as phenomenal as the locality is beautiful; and upon the latter score I have simply to remark, that, being in a measure wedded to a love of Hogarth's line of beauty, I am not, as a general rule, an admirer of level tracts or valley scenery.  But there is an indescribable charm about Richland.  Let those who doubt it go and see for themselves.  If, concerning it, I cannot conscientiously exclaim with the poet,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"There is not in this wide world a valley so sweet,"</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>I am certain there is no lovelier one.  And yet it is only one of the beautiful localities to be found in this peerless region.  There is no computing the future of Los Angeles county by ordinary methods of calculation.</p><P>There is nothing in the transition from Richland to Santa Ana to indicate the crossing of a division line; but upon reaching the latter town, the tourist finds himself among a grove of ancient gnarled and venerable sycamores, which add a certain picturesqueness to the landscape.  Arriving at Santa Ana, however, I found myself again in an artesian well district.  There are two in the town within one hundred yards of each other.  I could obtain no reliable estimate of the number which have already been sunk, but they are numerous.  Water is obtained at a depth varing from sixty to three hundred feet.  From one of them a constant five-inch stream leaps up to the light of day.  Embracing the settlement known as Gospel Swamp, there <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:granary was fitted up for the exercise of religious ceremony; no attempt at repair ever having been made, by the padres in charge, of the church building.  All of the other houses, however, were fitted up in a substantial and elaborate manner, the corridors being erected so as to form a hollow square; said square, like the one of San Luis Rey, being generally devoted to the pastime of bull fighting.</p><P>In 1830 this mission owned or controlled several large tracts of land, over which pastured 40,000 cattle, 70,000 sheep, 5,000 horses, and a large number of mules, oxen and hogs.  From the date of its foundation up to this time, there had been 4,790 natives converted and baptized, 1,702 marriages, and 3,947 deaths.  In 1831 there were 1,400 residents of this Mission, including 350 young girls and misses in the nunnery.</p><P>The gardens and grounds comprised eighty acres, the former containing 400 odd olive trees, all of which are in excellent bearing order.  There are also quite a number of pear trees remaining, as in most of the gardens, this being the favorite northern variety of fruit with the old padres.  Several acres of these gardens were devoted to the vine, all traces of which, however, are gone.  Remains of several palms may be seen, while the " <HI REND="italics">century plant</HI>
203.sgm: " thrives and blossoms <HI REND="italics">yearly</HI>
203.sgm:.</p><P>This Mission had a large soap manufactory, and also made large quantities of cloth and shoes; while its carpenter and blacksmith shops were the most extensive of any of the Missions.  The San Juan river running as it did, and does, all the year round, was very favorable for artificial irrigation, a means of improvement which the old padres always took advantage of.</p><P>The fall of the Mission of San Juan Capistrano took place in 1833.  The padres in charge watched the performances of the Mexican Congress in its debate upon the dividing up of the Mission property with great anxiety; and when the law passed giving to the Indians each an individual interest in their great possessions, padre Salvidea at once determined that the dividends should be small.  He at once shipped to Spain all of the pictures and ornaments of the church, and gave out contracts for the immediate and indiscriminate slaughter of all the cattle, sheep and hogs, and for the transportation of several shiploads of hides, tallow, soap, oil, grain and wine; so that, upon the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:Barronna, and Salvidea, graces the ruins as an article of schoolroom furniture.</p><P>Around about may be seen distributed large piles of dirt, etc., all of which, at one day or another, since 1776, were manufactories, nunneries, workshops, dwelling-houses, etc.  This, and the ruins of the church and its corridors, are all that remain of the once rich and celebrated Mission of San Juan Capistrano.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIII.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>THE GREAT CORN-PRODUCING DISTRICTS OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY--EL MONTE AND LOS NIETOS--A MAGNIFICENT RANCHO--SPADRA, THE PRESENT SOUTHERN TERMINUS OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD.</p><P>I WILL now take the reader through the extensive corn-producing districts of Los Angeles county, which have for their depots EL Monte and Los Nietos.</p><P>Los Nietos township comprises an area of from eight to ten miles square.  Six years ago it was in a condition of primeval unproductiveness.  Hardly a house was to be seen, except the scattered adobes of the native population.  I do not know how I can better convey the idea of the rapid growth of the settlement, than by stating that there are now within the above defined limits seven public school districts, all of them provided with comfortable and well-furnished school-houses, costing from $1,000 to $4,000.  The school-house in Gallatin is a two-story frame, thirty by fifty-six feet, and has in constant attendance over one hundred pupils, all living within one mile of the school-house.  In addition to the above mentioned seven districts, there has recently been established the "Los Nietos Collegiate Institute," the location of which is about one mile north of the railroad depot.  It is under the superintendence of Rev. S. M. Adams. of the M. E. Church South.  The building is a two-story frame, twenty-five by fifty feet, and there are already sixty pupils in attendance.  A community comparatively so new as this, which has already made such rapid strides in the all-important direction of educating the rising generation, must possess within itself all the elements of permanence, stability and prosperity.  I am informed that a large majority of the land-holders in the township own tracts ranging from ten to forty acres--in fact, that a fair average of ownership throughout would not exceed the last named number.  Land in the town-ship ranges from $20 to $100 per acre, dependent upon <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>159</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:has been subdivided into lots seventy by one hundred and forty-five feet, which are held at from one hundred to one hundred and fifty dollars.  There are fifty buildings already erected in the new town.</p><P>My idea of El Monte, before I had seen it, grew out of what limited knowledge of the latin language I possessed.  I knew the word <HI REND="italics">Monte</HI>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XIV.</HEAD>
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203.sgm:extending from Dead Man's Island to where the timber work commences.  I consider it therefore unnecessary to go into those details.  What is really of interest to know is, whether the work is accomplishing the purpose for which it was designed.  I unhesitatingly assert that it is doing that very thing in the most complete and satisfactory manner imaginable.  It has increased the area of Rattlesnake Island at its northeastern extremity by some seven hundred or eight hundred feet.  The sand, which hitherto had had free course to the channel, obstructed by the Breakwater, has accumulated in such quantities as to produce the effect mentioned above.  Below this point, and toward Dead Man's Island, the same effect has been produced, although in a lesser degree.  The accumulations of sand, however, have been of such an extent as to relieve those interested of any fear whatever of damage from the <HI REND="italics">teredo navalis</HI>
203.sgm:, that much dreaded enemy of piles and wharves.</p><P>Viewed merely in the light of an obstacle to the encroachment of the sea sands upon the channel, the Breakwater is a pronounced success.  But it would hardly be worth the sum which has been expended upon it, if it were not accomplishing active work as well as passively resisting the work of the winds and waves.  It is the universal testimony of all parties competent to form an opinion, that a constant improvement of the channel is going on.  The tide confined within narrow limits finds an increased force in its outward flow.  This account of the work alluded to may not be entirely satisfactory to the scientific reader.  But the scientist must bear in mind that I am writing for the general eye.  I give facts and results; and the result of the construction of the Breakwater and the facts of the case are, that it is accomplishing the work it was intended to accomplish, to wit: the protection of the channel, and more too--that is to say, the deepening of the channel and the dredging of the bar; that it is a splendid, solid, substantial, enduring monument to the skill and fidelity of Captain Sears, U.S.E.C., the gentleman who supervised its construction.</p><P>A few words about the Wilson College of Wilmington.  Hon. B. D. Wilson recently, with characteristic generosity, gave to the Los Angeles conference of the M. E. Church South ten acres of land and two extensive buildings, with a view to the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>169</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:endeavor to emulate Gradgrind.  If it were possible `facts and figures and figures and facts' should monopolize my thoughts.  They would be my daily dole to the universe, or at least that portion of it to which I contribute anything in `the beaten way' of written or of printed thoughts.  But as I have previously remarked, on certain occasions `the old time comes over me,' never more so than when, up to a few days since, I was wont to recall a panorama of rare and exquisite beauty, upon which I used to gaze entranced, as day after day some fresh beauty unfolded itself to my never-wearying eyes.  A long semi-circular sweep of hills, wooded to within almost a stone's throw of a placid bay, beyond which just a glimpse of the broad expanse of ocean seemed like a suggestion of the Infinite, was to me a source of never-ending delight.  Circumstances, `fate, fore-ordination,' or whatever else controls men's destinies, shut out that vision of surpassing loveliness from my sight forever, and for years I have been a sufferer from nostalgia.  The French, I believe, call it ` <HI REND="italics">mal du pays</HI>
203.sgm:.'  In good old Saxon, the complaint is called `home sickness.'  I did not believe that ever again my waking senses would be permitted to revel in the intoxication of spirit which follows the advent of a new joy, strong enough to roll the stone above the sepulchre, in which, sooner or later, every dead grief is buried and shut out from sight, if not from memory, forever.  I say I did not so believe, until I was made one of a party who were driven behind my friend Palmer's spanking sorrel team, out to and along that matchless beach of sand and shells, which is destined to become world-famous, by the name of Wilmington beach.  I wish I could command `the vision and the faculty divine.'  The eye, and heart, and pen of the poet; the enthusiasm of as yet not disenchanted youth; the freshness of feeling which belongs only to those who have not drunken of that `cup of grief where floats the fennel's bitter leaf,' will all meet there some day, and from the creative elements of the person of the man or woman in whom these attributes exist, will be given to the world a pen picture which it `will not willingly let die.'  But cold indeed must be the heart and unskillful the pen which could not give some faint idea of the scene upon which tens of thousands will yet gaze enraptured, and return again and yet again to drink their fill of the glory of nature's handiwork, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:looking `from nature up to nature's God,' thank Him that He hath traced with Almighty hand a picture so full of wondrous and unspeakable grandeur and beauty.  Wilmington beach was, until within a few months past, a <HI REND="italics">terra incognita</HI>
203.sgm:, so far at least as its accessiblity was concerned.  The gentleman who pioneered the way to its enjoyment does not care to be mentioned in connection with his discovery of the somewhat circuitious route by which it is reached.  So let that pass.  Come with me in imagination, and when you can do so, come in a buggy, or on horse-back, or in an ox-cart--anyhow, come and feast your eyes upon a panorama, which once seen can never be forgotten--before the ever-varying splendor of which, whatever I, at least, have seen of earthly beauty, is dwarfed into littleness, and, seen through memory's glass, seems as the work of pigmies by the side of some colossal structure of the days when there were giants in the land.  Expectation was wrought up to its utmost tension by the glowing descriptions given by my companions of the scene upon which we were about to enter.  A lover of the ocean before I had ever seen it, a dweller in dreams `by the sad sea wave,' ere ever the murmur of the slow incoming tide or the roar of its waters, lashed to fury by the storm, had fallen upon my ears, I was not unprepared to enjoy the drive in a quiet, self-satisfied sort of way.  But when emerging from the roadway I saw stretching before us for miles a level floor, upon which our horses' hoofs left scarcely an imprint, I was perforce silent with excess of admiration.  Just such a standpoint would one choose if called upon to watch <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The first beam glittering on a sail<LB>Which brings our friends up from the under world."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>Or look upon <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"The last that reddens over one<LB>That sinks with all we love below the verge."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>Upon some such shining beach must have grated the keel of the shallop of the worn and weary king, who, bidding his friends farewell, exclaimed:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"My purpose holds<LB>To sail beyond the sunset and the baths<LB>Of all the western stars until I die."</HI>
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203.sgm:<P>Above us the mid-day sun gleamed from an undimmed zenith, and the waste of waters, just stirred to lightest ripples by the west wind, shone like a floor of shattered diamonds, while the island of Santa Catalina, uprising from the bosom of the deep--massive and rugged in its grand proportions, but seen afar through the ambient air--was "softened all and tempered into beauty," and relieved the eye, which might else have been pained with the monotony of the vast expanse,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"As some light, fleecy cloudlet, floating along<LB>Like golden down from some high angel's wing,<LB>Breaks, but relieves and beautifies the blue."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>Far off to the east the San Juan and San Iago mountains reared their frowning ramparts, clothed by distance in an azure hue, while to the north the lofty peaks of the San Jacinto and San Bernardino lifted their summits to the very skies, and snowclad Cucamongo--monarch of the coast range--towered above his fellows, and stood calm and immovable,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun,"</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>type of eternal rest, awful in his solitary grandeur, sublime in cold and hushed and immutable repose.  Stretching far away to the north, and again approaching the sea a hundred miles away, the coast range rose, a bastion fringed with stately pines, and seemed to hold in a loving embrace the thousand homes which nestle in the valleys and crown the fertile foot-hills of the region round about.  Nothing was left to be desired.  Earth, air, sea, sky, were instinct with the majesty of eternity, and the mere physical pleasure of the hour was reduced to insignificance by the sublimity of the emotions born of the vision which can never fade.  Let those who think the picture overdrawn see for themselves.  Thousands yet unborn will feel their souls expand "to the dimensions of their Almighty Architect," as they gaze upon it; and when generations yet unborn shall have become as the dust of forgotten races, those who come after them will catch inspiration from the glowing theme."</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>174</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XV.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>SUBURBAN SETTLEMENTS--THE SAN GABRIEL ORANGE ASSOCIATION--FAIR OAKS--WHAT A MAN OF INDUSTRY CAN DO WITH FORTY DOLLARS IN NINE YEARS--LA BELLE CASCADE--EAST LOS ANGELES--SAN FERNANDO--THE OLD MISSION AND ITS GARDENS--EUGENE GARNIER'S SHEEP RANCH.</p><P>I made a pretty thorough inspection of the lands and improvements of the San Gabriel Orange Association in June, 1874.  Major E. Locke, recently from Indianapolis, and Judge Eaton, of Fair Oaks, the President of the Association, and Mr. D. M. Berry, Secretary, were my cicerones, so that it is not at all probable that much of the surroundings of many of the facts in the case escaped my observation.  I had occasion some few weeks previously to pass along the southern boundary of the tract purchased by the Association--which, by the way, is better known in Los Angeles as the Indiana Colony; and, to speak frankly, I did not think that the colony had been very fortunate in the selection of lands.  I was mistaken.  They own, jointly and severally, about four thousand acres of first-class land, and the site of what will, in a very few years, be one of the most flourishing settlements and prosperous communities in Semi-tropical California or anywhere else.  The tract purchased by the Association is the southwest corner of the San Pasqual Rancho.  The stock in the company was limited to one hundred shares of fifteen acres each.  The number of shareholders at present is about thirty, who hold all the shares, some of which are, perhaps, for sale; but when I state as facts that Mr. Clapp, the Treasurer, has refused one hundred dollars per acre for his allotment, that one gentleman sold out his at an advance of eight hundred dollars over cost, that Major Locke paid a bonus of four hundred dollars to the original owner from whom he purchased his thirty acres, intending purchasers of shares in the S.G.O.A. may know something of what they must expect if they make up their minds that they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>175</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:want any of the shares.  A most fortunate spirit of harmony was found to exist among the shareholders at the time of the distribution of lots; and it so happened that every member got exactly the tract he wanted.  That usually perplexing question in matters of this sort was settled long ago, and it is unnecessary further to refer to the matter.  The distribution of the fifteen hundred acres leaves a tract of about thirteen hundred acres at the northern extremity, and one of about eleven hundred at the southern.  By the terms of the articles of the Association, these outlying tracts are held in common by the shareholders, each one being entitled to his proportionate share, either upon the event of a further distribution, or in the event of a sale--a most unlikely contingency--to a proportionate share of the proceeds.  At present there is every probability that the northern outlying tract will be planted in vines, preference being given to the raisin grape and other choice foreign varieties, while the southern will be reserved for pasture and fuel-furnishing purposes and a park.  A magnificent forest adorns the southern boundary of the tract, which has been placed under the supervision of a forester, part of whose duties it will be to see to it that the plan of the early Missionary Fathers iscarried out, to wit: that only the limbs of the trees shall be cut for firewood, leaving the grand old trunks to reproduce fresh supplies from year to year.  A portion of the forest constitutes even now <HI REND="italics">in puris naturalibus</HI>
203.sgm:, a beautiful natural park, in which, as I returned home, a merry party were enjoying a day's recreation.  The entire tract is bounded on the west by the Arroyo Seco, and extends across that ravine, embracing the large supply of wood now growing therein.  The southern, eastern and northern boundaries impinge upon adjacent ranches.</p><P>The plan of the settlement shows an avenue about seventy feet wide, running through the centre, with miniature parks, round, oval, oblong and otherwise shaped, laid out at half mile intervals, and known as Park avenue.  On the eastern line Fair Oaks avenue runs the whole length; while on the western line it is intended to construct a wide carriage road, following the sinuosities of Arroyo Seco, winding in and out, and under among the grand and beautiful live oaks and sycamores, which grow upon its banks.  This carriage road will be something over five miles long, and it is simply the truth when I say that it will <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:nowhere be surpassed, if, indeed, anywhere equaled, for picturesque, romantic and charmingly diversified beauty.  About one hundred acres of the choicest land in the tract have been set apart and dedicated for school, church, park and carriage road purposes.  Nor has it been forgotten to reserve a beautiful and commanding site for a cemetery.  A great deal of the land is treeless, but there is enough of natural forest growth, and that, too, of the most pleasing and attractive character, to make it beautiful.  There are a number of springs on the tract, but water for family use and irrigating purposes will be obtained from perennial sources.  The association have already expended about twenty thousand dollars in the construction of a reservoir, and in laying down about three miles of iron pipe, one mile of which is eleven inch, and the remainder seven inch.  The reservoir is six hundred feet long, one hundred and fifty feet wide at the centre, it being oval, with two compartments, ten feet deep, with an aggregate capacity of 1,500,000 gallons; although if filled to the brim it would hold nearly double that amount.  Three miles north of the reservoir is the <HI REND="italics">toma</HI>
203.sgm:, that is to say, the place from which the water supply is taken.  Suffice it to say, that the source from which the supply is taken has been relied upon for many years, and has never failed.  Here is met for the first time a granite formation, exhibiting unmistakable evidences of upheaval, and evidently preventing, just at that point, the further subterranean flow of the supply constantly flowing downward from the mountains.  The water rises here, and is conveyed in a substantial flume, built above the highest flood line, alongside of and anchored to the jutting granite, to a sand box, and thence into the iron pipes which feed the reservoir.  The reservoir is sixty feet at least above the highest point of the company's land.  As soon as practicable, distributing pipes will be laid along the whole length of Park avenue, and thence distributed as occasion requires.  One hundred thousand grape vines have already beenplanted, and a number of shareholders are busy improving their lots.  Some fifteen or twenty families are expected to arrive and take possession of and improve their lots during the "winter" of 1874.</p><P>I was the guest, during my stay, of Mr. Charles Watts, of Chicago, who has erected a comfortable cottage, and keeps <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>177</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:bachelor hall in good style.  He ought to quit that sort of business, however.  The officers of the Association are as follows:  Benj. S. Eaton, President; D. M. Berry, Secretary; Wm. S. Clapp, Treasurer; and N. R. Gibson, of Peoria, Civil Engineer.  No name has as yet been selected for the new town which is to spring up in the locality I have attempted to describe.  Whatever the name may be by which it is hereafter to be known, if the plans exhibited to me are carried out, a few years will make it a successful rival in point of beauty and productiveness of any place in Southern California.  That these plans will be carried out, the character of the gentlemen who inaugurated the enterprise and are carrying it on furnish a sufficient guarantee.  The holders of shares in the Association who are yet to arrive cannot fail to be charmed with their future homes.  The harmony which has prevailed so far, and the energy which has been manifested in the furtherance of the plans of the Association, furnish excellent models for future associations of the same character.  There is room in Los Angeles county for very many more such enterprises.</p><P>The entire tract was purchased at the rate of $8 66 per acre, Mr. Berry, the Secretary, formerly of Indianapolis, selecting it in preference to a dozen other tracts in this and other counties which he was strongly urged to purchase.</p><P>"Fair Oaks," the homestead of Judge Benjamin J. Eaton, about twelve miles north-east of Los Angeles, is one of the most noteworthy spots, aside from its picturesque and beautiful locality, to be found in Los Angeles county.  Here are to be seen eighty thousand grape vines, some forty thousand of which are from seven to eight years old, <HI REND="italics">none of which have ever been irrigated</HI>
203.sgm:, but all of which are flourishing splendidly and producing large crops, which yield a wine too heavy perhaps for table use, but nevertheless of superior body and boquet.  Fair Oaks is the scene of a stubborn, resolute, unyielding hand-to-hand fight with many of the most repellant features of nature.  The entire tract was covered eight years ago with an almost impenetrable jungle of white sage, chemisal, grease-wood and scrub oak.  The only water accessible was to be found in a rough can&tilde;on, a mile or two to the north, the only mode of approach to which can discount the rocky road to Dublin any day in the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>I visited the Mission of San Fernando on March 1st, 1871, and prepared the following sketch for this book at that time--three years before Senator Maclay pounced down upon a portion of its broad surroundings:</p><P>Standing here, upon the steps of this venerable corridor, and looking far back through the dim vista of time, one's mind may easily reach, and linger upon, the sacred panorama of scenes which transpired during the halcyon days of the Mission Fathers; when padre Permin Francisco Lasnen stood time and again under the royal arch--now bird-nested and owl-inhabited--(above my head) with his officially unmolested arms folded across his bosom, and, with his vision, taking in all the vast expanse of mountain, valley and plain, and a veritable picture of the "cattle upon a thousand hills," undisturbed in the calm reality of <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"I'm monarch of all I survey;<LB>My right there is none to dispute;<LB>From the center all 'round to the sea<LB>I'm lord of the fowl and the brute."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>San Fernando Rey was the seventeenth of the Missions founded, and was named in honor of Ferdinand III, King of Castile and Leon, whom history points out as the one who effectually broke the Arabian power in Spain, and who first carried the career of conquest through Murcia and Andalusia.</p><P>The Mission was founded at the expense of Charles IV, of Spain, and of the Marquis of Branciforte, Viceroy of Mexico.  The Indian name of the locality was Achois Comihabit; the ceremonies took place on the 8th of September, 1797, only a few days after the arrival of padre Fermin Francisco Lasnen, who blessed the water and the place.  Immediately after the consecration, padre Francisco Dumetz was placed in charge, and remained several years.  The first marriage took place on the 8th of October, 1797, just one month after the ceremonies of consecration, and Laureano and Marcela were joined in the holy bonds of wedlock by padre Dumetz, according to the customs of the Roman Catholic church, in the presence of a large number of Indians and two soldiers of the presidio of San Diego, and padre Juan Cortez, who had arrived from Monterey the day <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<P>The interior constitutes a vast collection of rooms, unlike any other "private residence" in America.  Here is a reception room, which was probably where the old padres sat and toasted their shins, and drank their native wine, and chatted of times at home, and of boyhood days in Spain.  This is thirty-five by forty feet; adjoining is the dining room, thirty-five by seventy feet; it looks as massive at night as if it had been carved out of solid rock; then there is the kitchen, in which could be produced a dinner for the standing army of California when it attacked the American eagle on its perch at San Pasqual; and there are great square twenty-four by twenty-four feet chambers, like unto the sleeping apartments of the house of Pindarus, from which many a fervent supplication has ascended to the portals of God; and there is a library, or private apartment, twenty-five by forty feet, where have been hoarded hundreds of thousands of Spanish doubloons, and in which the <HI REND="italics">major-domo</HI>
203.sgm: used to report at the close of each evening repast; near by is the store-room, eighty by twenty feet, with a wine cellar underneath of the same dimensions.  In this store-room, locked up in an old Spanish chest, are many of the ancient trinkets of the church, some of which are of solid silver; including censors, naveta, incensevessels, a box of sacred forms, with a portion of an old form and a cross.  Among the curiosities which have been carefully treasured by Gen. Pico, and which he permitted me to examine, are portions of two of the tallow candles used at the first mass nearly seventy-five years ago, which was performed by padre Lasnen, in commemoration of the nativity of the Holy Virgin; also the original cattle brands; old flint-lock guns and spears, half a dozen camaras, or cannon, and an old pair of copper scales, made in 1796--and (this is private) in one corner--or, more properly, at one end--of the store-room (which marks the present occupant as one of Epicurus' sons) were promiscuous elevations of empty vessels, upon which were such hieroglyphics as "Chateau Larose," "East India Pale Ale," "Veuve Chicquot," "Chataubriand," "Tennetts," "Krug Private Cuvee," and such, which made my mouth Good Templar (water), notwithstanding the cobwebby emptiness of the vessels aforesaid.</p><P>The old churh near by, and which presents that sameness for which all similar structures are noted, looks hoary with time time and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:decay.  Its exterior seems a sign of "No admittance, on account of my shaky condition;" but of which I took no heed.  I had borrowed the key of an old lady, who occupies an adobe upon the crest of a neighboring hill, and who had watched the movements of the constellations long before padre Lasnen placed into position the corner-stone of the tottering edifice erected and dedicated more than half a century ago.  To my surprise, the interior is far from being in harmony with the uninviting picture of age and dilapidation to be seen on the outside.  It was as silent as the murmurs of a grave, and as serene as an angel's visit.  Not a sound broke the solemn stillness, except the flapping (once) of a monster owl, that awkwardly flew across the sacred chamber, and took its perch upon the altar-- <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Perched and sat, and nothing more."</HI>
203.sgm:</p><P>The church building is one hundred and fifty feet long and forty-five feet wide within walls, which are between two and three feet thick.  A sort of rude attempt at fresco work may be seen along the walls, while here and there hangs a pretty painting.  The altar is tastefully decorated; and close by is all the glittering paraphernalia of service, which is performed by a priest from Los Angeles once a month.  There are three bells, largely made of silver, and which are nearly as sweet and dulcet in their tones as the famous chimes of San Gabriel.</p><P>The Mission Gardens, near by, each containing thirty-two acres, are respectively owned by Don Andres Pico and Eulugio de Celis, Jr.  The Pico garden has three hundred olive trees, twelve thousand grape vines, and a large number of fig, peach, pear, walnut, almond and pomegranate trees, all in excellent bearing order.  The other garden contains three hundred and twenty olive trees, seven thousand grape vines, and a large number of orange, fig, peach, pear, and pomegranate trees.  Mr. de Celis has beenlavish in his attention to his garden, which is unequaled in its attractions as such.</p><P>These gardens are irrigrated by means of a ditch of ever-flowing water, carried from a flume, or dam, having been constructed seventy years ago.</p><P>The San Fernando Valley, or ranch, as it is generally called, is one of the finest and largest in Southern California, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER XVI.</HEAD>
203.sgm:<P>THE FAMOUS CHINO AND CUCAMONGA RANCHES AND VINEYARDS--A GLANCE AT SAN BERNARDINO.</p><P>I WILL now cross the line, and take the reader out of Los Angeles into San Bernardino county, and accompany him to two of the most noted ranches of Semi-tropical California.  First, we will visit the Chino ranch.  An historical object is an old adobe house, roofless, tenantless and rapidly falling to decay, which was once an extemporized fort.</p><P>In 1847, after the capture of California by Commodore Stockton, the native population revolted, and, under the lead of General Pico, hostilities were inaugurated.  Captain Gillespie was in command of the American forces at Los Angeles, and Colonel B. D. Wilson (then a captain), being <HI REND="italics">en route</HI>
203.sgm: from San Diego with a company of twenty men, found himself at the Chino, so to speak, in a state of siege.  Selecting a carrier, Captain Wilson dispatched him to Los Angeles with advices to Captain Gillespie; but, by some mischance, Flores, the Spanish Commander, secured intelligence of Captain Wilson's whereabouts, and one fine morning the little band of Americans found themselves surrounded by three hundred and fifteen enemies.  The result may be briefly stated: After a short resistance, the attacking party succeeded in firing the roof of the old adobe, and the occupants were compelled to surrender as prisoners of war, and remained as such from the 27th of September, 1846, to the 9th of January, 1847, at which time they were released on parol.  The final conflict between the Americans and the natives took place about that time, and was witnessed by Captain Wilson and his associates.  Of these twenty-two gentlemen, but five remain alive.  They are Messrs. B. D. Wilson, David Alexander, Michael White and George Walters, of Los Angeles, and Matt Harbin, of Sonoma.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"But a few years,<LB>And them, the all-beholding sun<LB>Shall see no more in all his round."</HI>
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203.sgm:<P>So pass away the memorials of by-gone years.  The "Chino" ranch, as it is popularly known, is, to say the least of it, a magnificent estate.  The property of the heirs of Robert Carlisle, deceased, it is managed and supervised by Mr. Joseph Bridger, and it was from his hospitable residence that I sallied out upon the several tours which I made through its broad acres.  Originally Mission lands, they reverted to the Mexican Government on the establishment of its independence; and, with the exception of what is known as "the addition," were granted to the Lugo family under the title of "Rancho Santa Ana," the suffix "Chino" meaning, in the vernacular, "curly," being derived from the fact that one of the early <HI REND="italics">major-domos</HI>
203.sgm: of the estate was the fortunate possessor of Hyacinthine locks.  The original title was purchased by Colonel Williams, to whom, also, the addition was granted; and from him descended to the widow of Robert Carlisle, deceased, now Mrs. McDougall, and her children.</p><P>The estate comprises 35,000 acres, of which about 7,000 acres are meadow lands, upon which the grass and clover grow the year round; 10,000 acres (comprising the addition) are peculiarly adapted to the cultivation of wheat and other grains.  Mr. H. J. Stewart, a Scottish gentleman, is the lessee of one half the ranch.  He is the owner of about 10,000 sheep, the increase from which in 1874 amounted to about 4,000 lambs.  Mr. Stewart is a gentleman of fine literary culture and a traveler, who has performed the feat which Puck said he would do in forty seconds.  Mr. S. has, metaphorically speaking, "put a girdle round the earth," and he gave me his full and free permission to make public his testimony, to the fact that he has nowhere else, in all his journeyings, found a climate which like that of Semi-tropical California, to its mild, equable character, can add the bracing, invigorating and tonic properties which distinguish this from all others.  In these respects he places Semi-tropical California in the van of the world.  Such testimony is of no inconsiderable value in making up the record.  Martine Echapar is also a lessee of a portion of the "Chino" ranch, and finds pasturage for 6,000 more sheep upon his allotted portion.  Mr. Bridger has in charge about 1,000 cattle and 220 horses and mules, all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>193</CONTROLPGNO>
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203.sgm:Vineyard Company, consisting of John G. Downey, Ben. Dreyfus, of Anaheim, and Messrs. I. W. and I. M. Hellman, six hundred and eight acres; the remainder is the homestead of the family of the original proprietor.  I understand that it is the intention of the San Francisco company to subdivide their portion and offer it for sale at some future period.  The vineyard has for some years past been under the management of Mr. Sainsevain, and the wine has attained a very favorable reputation.  Under the new <HI REND="italics">regime</HI>
203.sgm:, which will be under the entire supervision of Mr. Dreyfus, the latest improvements in the manufacture of wine and brandy will be introduced, and the well-known reputation of "Cucamonga" will doubtless be materially enhanced.  The price paid for the vineyard property was, I am informed, about $35,000.  In my somewhat extensive tour through this region, I have nowhere seen a vineyard which presented a finer appearance than Cucamonga.  The foliage of the vines was just sufficiently advanced in growth to present an even surface of delicate green over the whole extensive area.  Not a weed disfigured the ground, which careful cultivation had rendered almost as smooth and level as a ball-room floor.  That the new proprietors intend to make their valuable estate one of the finest properties in California, must be evident from the fact that they last year planted 40,000 foreign grape vines.  There are 160,000 bearing vines on the place at present.  They also planted 1,200 orange, lemon and lime trees, and 3,000 English walnuts, and will continue to add others from time to time, they having extensive nurseries of young trees upon the property.  In point of natural beauty of location, Cucamonga can successfully dispute the palm with any estate I have visited.  The finest mountain stream I have seen rushes down from the adjacent hills.  The supply of water is ample for manufacturing purposes, and the fall from the road-front of the estate is sixty feet in one thousand.  Mr. Sansevain, the former proprietor, retires from business with a stock of about 30,000 gallons of wine on hand.  My stay at this point was brief, and my opportunities for observation limited, but I saw enough to convince me that the stories which I had heard of the beauty and fertility of the Cucamonga ranch, were by no means exaggerated.</p><P>Seventeen miles from Cucamonga is the delightful city of San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>196</CONTROLPGNO>
203.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>199</PRINTPGNO>
203.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>200</PRINTPGNO>
203.sgm:, ditches and all the pharaphernalia of a fortification, were constructed, and here they lived for two years, at the end of which time, through vigilance and kindness, the Indians were brought to friendly terms.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
203.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>201</PRINTPGNO>
203.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>202</PRINTPGNO>
203.sgm:property, most of the beautiful houses and gardens and orchards and fields succumbed to neglect, and dwindled into premature decay.</p><P>In 1859 a large number of the original owners returned, and, to a great extent, they were seceders from the church of Brigham Young, and for a long time had no real organization.  They declared themselves not only in no way connected with the fountain head at Salt Lake, but repudiated Brigham Young and his doctrines of polygamy, and claimed that young Joe Smith was the rightful head of the church.  In contradistinction to the Mormons of Utah, the "Josephites" of this place claim to be the <HI REND="italics">True Latter Day Saints</HI>
203.sgm:, and run a separate church government.  They have several communities in California and Arizona and in the Atlantic States, and are proselytizing throughout the world.  There are a few of the people here who belong to the original church, and who only associate with the <HI REND="italics">True</HI>
203.sgm: Saints in the necessary intercourse of business and citizenship.</p><P>San Bernardino is the largest county in California--containing sixteen thousand square miles, or two millions five hundred thousand acres, a tract of land much larger than half of the New England States put together.</p><P>San Bernardino Valley is about ten miles square, and contains a large amount of substantial soil, admirably adapted to every variety of agriculture, and inexhaustibly supplied with water.  It seems almost imprisoned in the embrace of a circle of lofty hills and mountains, and presents the appearance of a vast amphitheatre.</p></DIV>
203.sgm:<DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>200</CONTROLPGNO>
203.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>203</PRINTPGNO>
203.sgm:<HEAD>CONCLUSION -- STATISTICAL</HEAD>
203.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>204</PRINTPGNO>
203.sgm:thousand and sixty-six between five and seventeen years; and in Los Angeles alone there are two thousand four hundred and eleven school children.</p><P>In 1868 the total value of property returned by the assessor was $3,764,045; in 1874 the return of the same officer was as follows: Lands and lots, $8,004,098; personal property, $4,319,424; total, $12,323,522; or, in round numbers, an increase in value of three hundred per cent. in eight years, three of which at least were unfavorable to rapid growth.</p><P>In 1867 the number of sheep in the county was 148,700; in 1874 the number returned by the assessor is 482,372.</p><P>Comparative statements like the above might be furnished in numbers, but it is deemed sufficient to state, that every branch of industry and every element of prosperity shows a correspondingly gratifying increase.  To this fact the reputation of the author stands pledged.</p></DIV>
205.sgm:<TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-205</TITLE>
205.sgm:<TITLE>Los Angeles in the sunny seventies.  A flower from the golden land, by Ludwig Louis Salvator; translated by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur; introduction by Phil Townsend Hanna: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
205.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
205.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
205.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
205.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</p><P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</p><P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</p><P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</p></PUBLICATIONSTMT>
205.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>30-3201</LCCN>
205.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
205.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>Copyright status not determined.</COPYRIGHT>
205.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<illus entity="a205-0001" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>MAIN STREET IN LOS ANGELES</p></CAPTION>
205.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES</p><P>IN THE SUNNY SEVENTIES</p><P>A FLOWER FROM THE GOLDEN LAND</p><P>BY LUDWIG LOUIS SALVATOR</p><P>Translated by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur</p><P>Introduction by Phil Townsend Hanna</p><illus entity="a205-0002" MAP="no"></ILLUS>
205.sgm:<P>BRUCE McCALLISTER<HSEP>JAKE ZEITLIN</p><P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, 1929</HI>
205.sgm:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>3</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>Copyright, 1929, by Jake Zeitlin</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>4</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>900 copies of <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles in the Sunny Seventies--A Flower From the Golden Land</HI>
205.sgm: have been printed for Jake Zeitlin by Bruce McCallister in Los Angeles, the work being finished in September, A.D. 1929.  The illustrations are reproduced from the first edition (Prag, 1878).  The title page decoration is by Raymond Winters.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>5</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>i</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>THE INTRODUCTION</HEAD>
205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>I</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>"EL PUEBLO" came of age between dawn and dusk on the 5th day of September, in the year of our Lord, 1876, and of the Independence of the United States of America, exactly the one-hundredth.  At two o'clock in the afternoon, more or less, at a tiny settlement then and since known as Lang's Station, sequestered in the depths of Soledad Can&tilde;on, Charles F. Crocker drove the golden spike that completed the Southern Pacific Railroad and gave to Los Angeles its first all-rail contact with the Atlantic Seaboard.  The golden spike and the silver hammer with which it was driven were the gift of an enterprising jeweler of El Pueblo, and the event was properly celebrated that evening at a Lucullian banquet at Union Hall.  Inspired, no doubt, by a liberal indulgence in Don Mateo Keller's finest vintages, of which there was an ample supply, a local editor delivered himself of the following opinion:</p><P><HI REND="blockindent">"The road will prove the open sesame to a region incalculably<LB>"rich in the precious metals; and, through the influence it will ex-<LB>"ert in stimulating their production, its completion will be felt in<LB>"the commerce of the whole world....We can take a legitimate<LB>"pride in our young commonwealth's ability to undertake and<LB>"carry to completion a work of such magnitude.  We have built it<LB>"in less time than was consumed in the construction of the Penn-<LB>"sylvania Central by the great State of Pennsylvania, and we have<LB>"done it too in a season when all the money markets in the world,<LB>"from Vienna to London, were perturbed and in a distrustful<LB>"mood."</HI>
205.sgm:</p><P>Extravagant and euphemistic as these assertions may have seemed to the more conservative-minded then, they were actually both veracious and warranted.  The completion of the Southern Pacific was the most important event in the growth of Los Angeles <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ii</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:and "Semi-Tropical California," as the vicinage was pridefully known, since 1781 when Felipe de Neve had left a heterogeneous company of forty-six Spaniards, negroes, Indians and <HI REND="italics">mestizos</HI>
205.sgm:, to found a city upon the banks of the Ri&acute;o Porciu&acute;ncula.</p><P>Into the oblivion of things past had gone the slothful days of the Spanish occupation and the predatory and equally meretricious era of the gold-rush.  The first seventy-five years of California's existence as a civilized province was as beautiful, from the viewpoint of abstract &aelig;stheticism, as the golden years of Greece and Rome, but the period similarly, was a decadent one.  It was foredoomed to vanish.  From practical considerations its people had contributed nothing to the advancement of culture or the economic betterment of the land they had settled upon.</p><P>The prevailing attitude was one of procrastination.  Nature was beneficent and the necessaries of life were abundant and at their very elbows.  In possession of such leisure other nations and peoples have developed arts and crafts that have excited the admiration of the world. But not Californians.  Deeper and deeper they sank in the vice of their indolence; more and more did they take from their land, and less and less did they put into it.</p><P>The advent of gold-days merely intensified the tempo of the "taking." The change was simply one of degree, and the economic aspect became worse. Men gutted the earth of its riches and dissipated their new-found wealth on a thousand inconsequential baubles.  Fortunately the mad debauch of a hundred years was in its last convulsion.  A transvaluation of values was imminent.</p></DIV>
205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>II</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>THE "sunny seventies" brought the dawn of a new day for Southern California.  Into remote places the word had gone of its undeniable advantages.  Miners in their infrequent letters interspersed references to the fruitfulness of the land and the salubrity of the climate among the chronicles of their tribulations and their triumphs; <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>7</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iii</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:returning traders dilated upon its fine valleys and its timber-clad mountains.  The unorganized and unconscious rhapsodies became a veritable p&aelig;an of praise, piquing the curiosity and arousing the cupidity of thousands of ambitious men and women, dissatisfied with their lot elsewhere.</p><P>And so they were coming to Southern California, a slow and resolute current of them.  The <HI REND="italics">Senator</HI>
205.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Orizaba</HI>
205.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Ancon</HI>
205.sgm: were discharging a constant human cargo at Wilmington and Santa Monica.  And they were coming, too, by stage, and by stage-and-rail where such transport was the best available.  The Middle West and the Mississippi Valley were contributing their quotas; the late Southern Confederation now convalescing from the scars of war bid reluctant farewell to its favorite sons and daughters who sought a new dispensation in a new <HI REND="italics">milieu</HI>
205.sgm:; New England, sterile from a century and a half of heavy bearing, was prominently represented; even the Old World had heard the siren lure, and the sturdy Norse, the thrifty Teuton, and the irrepressible Gaul could be distinguished among the multitude that trod Los Angeles streets.</p><P>The trickling stream became a tide of sizeable proportions when the Southern Pacific was completed and the hitherto occult call had become articulate through the broadcasting of organized information about the resources and possibilities in this newest of lands.</p><P>The settlers of the "sunny seventies" had no illusions.  Elsewhere they had learned the first principles of social economics, though I hardly think they knew them by that name.  They knew, for instance, that land must be cultivated; that there must be a "giving" as well as a "taking," a sowing as well as a reaping.  They were acquainted with toil and respected it.  The <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles Express</HI>
205.sgm:, on July 8, 1876, remarked:</p><P><HI REND="blockindent">"What Los Angeles wants is the right kind of population and<LB>"plenty of it.  With that we shall soon build up one of the most<LB> <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>8</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>iv</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:"attractive and wealthiest counties in the country and march out on<LB>"a splendid era of prosperity....Southern California now presents<LB>"the most inviting point for settlement in the Union."</HI>
205.sgm:</p><P>It was true.  Los Angeles did need "the right kind" of settlers, and it was getting them.  There was a new spirit in the air.  Industry had displaced indolence; enterprise and thrift had been substituted for eternal diversion and profligacy.  The Spanish-Californians gazed upon the scene with a contempt for those who would so far demean themselves as to work, but the transformation was progressing and no human hand could stop it.</p><P>Great ranchos began to slip from the grasp of the original grantees, who no longer were competent to cope with the changing environment. Fruits and cereals were bountifully produced on lands that hitherto had known nought but thundering herds, wantonly slaughtered by the thousands for their hides and tallow.</p><P>And, strange to relate, for the first time in the annals of California, land began to have a value.  The values were ridiculous, of course, judged from the standards of the present, but that it had a worth was a portentous sign--a sign that it had inherent potentialities and merited conservation and nurture.  And there was abroad a feeling, not yet fully sublimated into a public consciousness despite the perfervid editorial utterances of seven Los Angeles newspapers, that Southern California had a Destiny!</p><P>Despite the communal industry, there existed no slavery to the land, or to business.  Work, it was recognized, was a necessity, but diversion was likewise.  It was this temperateness, this realization that work and play, drink and food, rest and reflection, all have their related places in the cosmic scheme of things, that made the "sunny seventies" the most glorious decade in all Los Angeles' history.  There was liberty and tolerance without restrictive prohibitions, freedom of action and thought between the broad pillars of public decency and community welfare.  The Round House was as popular of a Sunday as the churches and none came under the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>9</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>v</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:censuring finger of public scorn because he frequented this popular retreat where "are to be seen elegantly portrayed the primeval family, Adam and Eve, Cain and Abel; also the old serpent and the golden apples, all according to the record."</p><P>Nor was one ostracized if, basket-lunch on arm, he hied himself to the station of the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad to embark upon one of the company's two daily trains for Santa Monica, there to disport himself.  So popular a holiday was this that on one occasion eleven cars were required to transport the festive-bound that presented themselves!</p></DIV>
205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>III</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>ONTO this scene there came in the very year of 1876, Ludwig Salvator, Archduke of Austria.  Salvator was the son of Leopold II, last Grand Duke of Tuscany, and had been born in Florence on August 4, 1847.  As a youth he developed a veritable passion for travel and natural science.  Unlike so many noblemen of similar estate, he rejected the pomp and circumstance of court life and turned his attention to scholarly pursuits.  Of the living languages he spoke twelve.  Until he was twelve years old he lived in Florence, and from 1859 to 1870 in Rome.  From there he started a series of voyages that took him into virtually every country in the world and resulted in a series of valuable monographs on the various peoples whom he visited.  Later he took up residence on the Island of Mallorca, whence he continued his journeys.  He was commander of the 58th regiment of Austrian infantry, and in 1889 was named a member of the Imperial Austrian Academy of Sciences and the Bohemian Academy of Sciences.  Early in the '80s his geographical studies won the esteem of the Royal Geographical Society of Great Britain, which elected him an honorary member, of whom there were at that time but eight others among a total membership of some 3500 Fellows.  Salvator's books ranged, in size, from small duodecimos such as his <HI REND="italics">Eine Blume aus dem</HI>
205.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vi</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Goldenen Lande oder Los Angeles</HI>
205.sgm: to mammoth parchment-bound folios such as <HI REND="italics">Sommertage auf Ithaka</HI>
205.sgm:, and all were devoted to some point of geographical interest.  Many of them dealt with the isolated and little known islands of the Mediterranean and Aegean.  In the main they are scientific to the point of being repellent and virtually all are accompanied by largefolding maps in color, and numerous drawings, all of which the author made himself.</p><P>It is impossible to present an accurate bibliography of Salvator's works here, due to the modesty that led him to omit his name from many of them.  Thirty-five volumes, however, have been identified, and there are six more in existence which doubtless came from his pen but for which there is no conclusive identification.  Salvator started writing in 1873, producing in that year two books, <HI REND="italics">Der Djebel Esdmun</HI>
205.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Levkoskia; Die Haupstadt von Cypern</HI>
205.sgm:.  As the years followed he produced one or more volumes almost every year until shorly before his death, which occurred in the Castle of Brendes, near Prague, in the middle of October, 1915.</p><P>Among his many published books are, besides those above mentioned:  <HI REND="italics">Eine Jachtreise in die Syrten</HI>
205.sgm: (1874); <HI REND="italics">Eine Spazierfahrt im Golf von Korinth</HI>
205.sgm: (1876); <HI REND="italics">Die Balearen in Wort und Bild</HI>
205.sgm: (1878); <HI REND="italics">Eine Blume aus dem Goldenen Lande oder Los Angeles</HI>
205.sgm: (1878); <HI REND="italics">Die Karavanenstrasse von Aegypten nach Syrien</HI>
205.sgm: (1878); <HI REND="italics">Die Serben an der Adria</HI>
205.sgm: (1879); <HI REND="italics">Hobarttown Oder Sommerfrische in den Antipoden</HI>
205.sgm: (1886); <HI REND="italics">Um die Welt ohne zu wollen</HI>
205.sgm: (1886, 4th Ed.); <HI REND="italics">Paxos und Antipaxos im Jonischen Meere</HI>
205.sgm: (1887); <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles in Sudkalifornien</HI>
205.sgm: (1887); <HI REND="italics">Benzert</HI>
205.sgm: (1897); <HI REND="italics">Cannosa</HI>
205.sgm: (1897); <HI REND="italics">Die Cyparischen Inseln</HI>
205.sgm: (1897); <HI REND="italics">Lose Bla&die;tter aus Abbazia</HI>
205.sgm: (1897); <HI REND="italics">Alboran</HI>
205.sgm: (1898); <HI REND="italics">Ustica</HI>
205.sgm: (1898);<HI REND="italics">Bougie</HI>
205.sgm: (1899); <HI REND="italics">Die Insel Giglio</HI>
205.sgm: (1900); <HI REND="italics">Ramleh als Winteraufenthalt</HI>
205.sgm: (1900); <HI REND="italics">Helgoland</HI>
205.sgm: (1901, 2nd Ed.); <HI REND="italics">Sommertage auf Ithaka</HI>
205.sgm: (1903); <HI REND="italics">Zante</HI>
205.sgm: (1904); <HI REND="italics">Eine Jachtreise an den Kusten von Tripolitanien und Tunisien</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">Ma&die;rchen aus Mallorca</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">Rondayes de Mallorca</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">Spanien in Wort und Bild</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">Wintertage auf Ithaka</HI>
205.sgm: (1905);<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>vii</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<HI REND="italics">Columbretes</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">Das was verschwinden</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">Einige Worte u&die;ber Kaymenen</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">Der Golf von Buccari:-Porto Re</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">Bizerta und seine Zukunst</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">Schiftbruch</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">Katalina</HI>
205.sgm: (1905); <HI REND="italics">U&die;ber die Durchstich der Landenge von Stagns</HI>
205.sgm: (1906); <HI REND="italics">Parga</HI>
205.sgm: (1907); <HI REND="italics">Anmerkungen u&die;ber Levkas</HI>
205.sgm: (1908); <HI REND="italics">Die Felsenfesten Mallorcas</HI>
205.sgm: (1910); <HI REND="italics">Einiges u&die;ber Weltausstellungen</HI>
205.sgm: (1911); <HI REND="italics">Sommertra&die;umerein am meeresufer</HI>
205.sgm: (1912); <HI REND="italics">Hafen von Porto-Palma in der Bucht von Palma de Mallorca</HI>
205.sgm: (1913).</p><P>In Salvator's formidable array of opera are to be found the method of the scientist and the hand of the scholar.  Thorough observation, painstaking research, that "infinite capacity for taking pains" that is said to signify genius--all are there.  But in two in particular there are, moreover, additional qualities that set them far ahead of the main bulk of his work.  His <HI REND="italics">Die Karavanenstrasse von Aegypten nach Syrien</HI>
205.sgm: which appeared in German first in 1878, was regarded so highly in England that it was put into English three years later.</p><P>The other and, perhaps, the most important of all of Salvator's studies, <HI REND="italics">Eine Blume aus dem Goldenen Lande oder Los Angeles</HI>
205.sgm:, appears here in the first full and complete translation from the German, by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur.  "Eine Blume," as it has come to be familiarly known by students of California history and collectors of Californiana, was the fruit of Salvator's visit to Southern California in 1876.  With the characteristic Teutonic flair for details, Salvator spent the winter of '76 in and about Los Angeles, interviewing its principal citizens and studying the Spanish and English histories of California which he assimilated with as much ease as he did the literature in his native tongue.  He journeyed extensively and his facile pen was as busy in drawing the intriguing compositions his eyes fell upon as it was in recording the observations that were later to be made the basis of his book.</p><P>The text of his work reveals that he was as enthusiastic as the most ardent native about this region.  It had its ludicrous aspects to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>viii</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:one reared in the staid precincts of the Old World no doubt.  The bloom of youth that was then upon the cheeks of Los Angeles was not entirely free from the pimples of adolescence.  The vagaries and foibles of the age have become legend.  A local newspaper came into the field with this egregious salutatory:</p><P><HI REND="blockindent">"It is an exalted privilege to write for a full-hearted, intelligent,<LB>"country-loving people; to trace the characters or truth and hon-<LB>"est impulse, giving the leaves to the iron Sibyl who presses them<LB>"to her breast and flings them out in multiplied thousands to the<LB>"gale."</HI>
205.sgm:</p><P>Salvator saw this and countless other manifestations of the current immaturity.  But he saw more; he saw the germ of a great community, and growth and prosperity somewhere behind the misty veil of the future.  And when he wrote, he had the grace and forbearance to overlook those shortcomings that, as a target for satire, might have made his book a best seller.  Instead of making of this section of America an object of ridicule as did so many of his comtemporaries, he weighed all the evidence, presented all the facts that were pertinent, and concluded that Southern California held more than promises for the colonist.  How many of his countrymen were moved to immigrate to this territory through Salvator's book it is impossible, of course, to say, but there can be no doubt that it proved an influence of vast import in augmenting the existing German colony.  That it was avidly read in Europe is indicated by the fact that it was reprinted in 1885 under the title <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles in Sudkalifornien</HI>
205.sgm:.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles in the Sunny Seventies</HI>
205.sgm:, as "Eine Blume" has been rechristened (and quite appropriately, too) in this English version, is, in fact, the history of Southern California in the transition period, quite as essential to a proper knowledge of the formative influences that have made a modern commercial Tyre out of a lazy Mexican pueblo, as Bell's <HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of a Ranger</HI>
205.sgm:, or Newmark's <HI REND="italics">Sixty Years in California</HI>
205.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>13</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>ix</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>The preparation of the present translation of "Eine Blume" has been the labor of many enthusiastic hearts and hands, and the publisher and translator beg this occasion to acknowledge the coo&die;peration of Everett Perry, Los Angeles City Librarian, who made the original German text available; Miss Laura Cooley, of the Los Angeles Public Library, who has toiled indefatigably in the clearing up of questionable historical references; Mrs. A. H. Keidel, whose aid in the rendering of involved German passages has been invaluable; C. Palmer Connor, of the Title Insurance and Trust Company, who graciously assisted in the identification of obscure geographical points; Arthur Ellis, Robert Ernest Cowan, and the multitude of others who, through their whole-hearted encouragement, have made the work a genuine joy.</p><P>PHIL TOWNSEND HANNA</p><P><HI REND="italics">Los Angeles, California</HI>
205.sgm:.</p><P><HI REND="italics">June 21, 1929</HI>
205.sgm:.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>14</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>A FLOWER FROM THE GOLDEN LAND</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>16</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>17</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xiii</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<DIV TYPE="toc"><HEAD>THE CHAPTERS</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>PAGE<LB>1  General Conditions<HSEP>1<LB>2  Climate<HSEP>3<LB>3  Flora and Fauna<HSEP>23<LB>4  Population<HSEP>29<LB>5  Glimpses of the Past and Present<HSEP>33<LB>6  The Indians<HSEP>39<LB>7  The Chinese Question<HSEP>41<LB>8  Houses<HSEP>45<LB>9  Agriculture<HSEP>47<LB>10  Irrigation<HSEP>51<LB>11  Fences<HSEP>57<LB>12  Miscellaneous Products<HSEP>59<LB>13  Land Values<HSEP>77<LB>14  Bee and Silk Culture<HSEP>79<LB>15  Cattle-Raising<HSEP>81<LB>16  Hunting and Fishing<HSEP>89<LB>17  Mining<HSEP>91<LB>18  Industries<HSEP>97<LB>19  Trade<HSEP>99<LB>20  Steamship, Railway, and Postal Service<HSEP>109<LB>21  Hints to Settlers<HSEP>113<LB>22  Some Statistics on Wealth in the County<HSEP>117<LB>23  Early History<HSEP>119<LB>24  Los Angeles<HSEP>123<LB>25  A Drive along the Los Angeles River<HSEP>141<LB>26  Rancho de La Laguna<HSEP>147<LB>27  The Fertile San Gabriel Valley<HSEP>149<LB>28  The Most Important Settlements in the County<HSEP>161<LB>29  The Country in and about Santa Monica<HSEP>175<LB>30  Wilmington    183</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>FOREWORD</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>HEALTH RESORTS <HI REND="italics">are becoming daily more and more popular.  With the approach of the winter season there is always a heavy migration toward the south, a migration that occurs not only in Europe, but also across the ocean.  Thousands journey annually from the frigid climate of the northeastern states to the milder lands of Florida or Southern California.  However, there are many who cannot afford to migrate like birds of passage and who are thus forced to see their families endure the harsh, unpleasant winters of their own country.  To these, notwithstanding, an extraordinary opportunity stands open; to pioneer to a more favorable country where health and prosperity beckon.  For this purpose no land offers greater advantages and is better adapted for European migration than California; a land that combines fertility of soil and opportunity for industrial development, with a healthful climate; a land where harsh winters and hot summers are unknown</HI>
205.sgm:.</p><P><HI REND="italics">Of late, much has been done to promote migration to America. Many pioneers, however, remain in the already thickly-populated eastern states, coming there often without means, and frequently with little ambition.  These often return home disappointed.  Notwithstanding, vast opportunities are to be found in the far West.  But above all else to America must be taken industry and good will; these are required in far greater measure than in our own land.  Given these two qualities it is a comparatively simple matter to make a good living, although the possession of some capital is of far more benefit than in Europe, since it paves the way for acquiring considerable wealth.  My intention, in the following description of this glorious corner of California, is to show its possibilities, and reveal how readily results can be accomplished.  If, by so doing, I shall have assisted anyone in the founding of a pleasant, happy home, I shall be satisfied.  The data used in this account</HI>
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205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>xvi</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<HI REND="italics">have been collected partly on the ground, partly procured for me through local friends, especially Dr. Vincent Gelcich, and partly taken from various periodicals in California. Among the latter are the monthly journal</HI>
205.sgm:, HOMES IN CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST ( <HI REND="italics">San Francisco); the</HI>
205.sgm: HERALD NEWSPAPER <HI REND="italics">for 1876; and articles on Southern California written in 1875 for the Anaheim Gazette by W. R. Olden.  Added to these are the following volumes: Major Ben C. Truman</HI>
205.sgm:, SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA, ( <HI REND="italics">S.F., 1874); Charles Nordhoff</HI>
205.sgm:, CALIFORNIA FOR HEALTH, PLEASURE, AND RESIDENCE, ( <HI REND="italics">New York, 1875); John S. Hittell</HI>
205.sgm:, THE RESOURCES OF CALIFORNIA, ( <HI REND="italics">S.F., 1875); Mary Cone</HI>
205.sgm:, TWO YEARS IN CALIFORNIA, ( <HI REND="italics">Chicago, 1876</HI>
205.sgm: ).</p><P><HI REND="italics">In conclusion it should be observed that the conditions as represented refer to the time of my visit there in 1876, a comment that is especially pertinent in view of the rapid development throughout America, and especially in California</HI>
205.sgm:.</p><P>Zindis <HI REND="italics">near Triest, September, 1878</HI>
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205.sgm:<HEAD>CHAPTER 1</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>GENERAL CONDITIONS</p><P>THE name Southern California usually refers not to the southern tip of the peninsula that is still under Mexican rule, but to territory in California, extending from the thirty-sixth parallel down to the southern boundary of the United States.  Southern California contains 7 ducal states or counties: San Diego, San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Ventura (an abbreviation for San Buenaventura), Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and Kern Counties.  With the single exception of the latter, the Spanish Missions<ANCHOR ID="n1-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: bearing the same names formed the nucleus of these counties.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-1">Of these only four, properly speaking, were missions: San Diego, San Buenaventura, Santa Barbara, and San Luis Obispo.  San Bernardino was merely an <HI REND="italics">asistencia</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Of all these counties, none has been so favored in every way by nature as that of Los Angeles--the subject of this sketch--which can most suitably be called <HI REND="italics">A Flower from a Golden Land</HI>
205.sgm:.</p><P>With an area of some 5,600 square miles--about 3,600,000 acres--it is bounded on the north by Kern County; this line runs due east and west for approximately 70 miles.  On the east, where it touches the county of San Bernardino, the boundary line stretches almost directly north and south, being 100 miles or more in length.  Off toward the southwest along a coastline of approximately 100 miles lies the Pacific. On the west, the boundary-line is formed by Ventura County; this line runs northeast for 15 miles and northwest for 45 miles.  The major portion of this county thus forms a parallelogram measuring, roughly, 70 miles from east to west and about 60 miles from north to south.  This has a triangular section projecting out from its southeastern corner, which has a northern line of 70 miles and an eastern line of 40 miles, and which adjoins the county of San Diego.<ANCHOR ID="n1-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-2">Los Angeles and San Diego Counties no longer touch; in 1889 this "triangle" became Orange County.</NOTE>
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205.sgm:<P>Approximately 35 miles in a southerly direction from this imaginary boundary-line rises the sharply-defined mountain range known as the Sierra Madre which, as it stretches off toward the north, forms the San Fernando, San Gabriel, and San Bernardino ranges.  These, varying in height from 3,000 to 9,000 feet, form a bulwark which is virtually unbroken except where, at one point, the latter ranges are cut at an elevation of 4,676 feet by the Cajon Pass.</p><P>These run in an easterly and southeasterly direction paralleling in a general way the coast, lying, on an average, about 33 miles inland from the ocean.  They form two main watersheds; the northern, stretching from the Santa Clara Valley which is watered in its northern part by the Santa Clara River down to the Mojave Desert, is the mining district of the county; and the southern, a valley 36 miles long and 75 miles wide stretching off toward the south, which is watered by three rivers, the San Gabriel, the Los Angeles, a tributary, and the Santa Ana, that forms the backbone of the agricultural wealth of the county of Los Angeles.</p><P>The coast-line of the county extends from <HI REND="italics">Punta Maga</HI>
205.sgm:<ANCHOR ID="n1-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: in the north down to where it terminates at Point San Mateo in the south.  Both in the north and south near the coast mountains rise--the Sierra de Santa Monica in the north and the San Juan range in the south,--which also serve as boundaries for the flat farmlands of the county.  From these projects, however, a hilly promontory almost square in shape, whose northern and southern tips are called respectively, Point St. Vincent and Point Firmin.  These both form, a nd, at the same time separate from one another Santa Monica and San Pedro Bays, the two largest natural harbors in the county.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-3"><HI REND="italics">Punta Maga</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Cities and towns located in the county are the following: Los Angeles, Anaheim, San Gabriel, El Monte, Wilmington, Downey-City, Spadra, Santa Ana, Westminster, Compton, San Fernando, Florence, Richland, Tustin-City, and San Juan Capistrano.  With the exception of the latter, which was the site of the mission, these towns are of recent growth.<ANCHOR ID="n1-4">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n1-4">Los Angeles was founded in 1781; San Gabriel in 1771; Anaheim in 1857; El Monte in 1851; Wilmington in 1858; Santa Ana in 1869; Westminster in 1871; Tustin-City in 1869.</NOTE>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 2</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>CLIMATE</p><P>COMPARATIVELY few regions have a finer climate than the long stretch of coastal country lying within the confines of Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and San Diego Counties.  That of Los Angeles, lying as it does between them, is especially balmy.  Indeed, the climate in Southern California--this refers to the southern part of the county lying below the Sierras--is such that it is surpassed by no other region in the new world.  Extremes of heat and cold are unknown; it is a land of perpetual spring.  In winter, the days are invariably comfortably warm; the nights, in summer, are delightfully cool,--blankets, as a matter of fact, being essential at night throughout the summer season.  That it is possible to work outdoors in shirtsleeves from January to December and that there is no month of the year when fruit does not ripen or flowers bloom is adequate proof of the equability of the climate.</p><P>The thermometer fluctuates between 52&deg; in January and 75&deg; in July, a variation of 23&deg;.  The average annual temperature is 64&deg;, with a mean variation of 10&deg; to 12&deg; above or below, in summer or winter.  During the fall and winter the average temperature is 52&deg;-54&deg;; in spring and summer, 74&deg;-75&deg;; in some years, however, it is as low as 60&deg;-70&deg;.</p><P>The following is a compilation of observations made in Los Angeles, San Gabriel, and Anaheim:</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<illus entity="a205-0003" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TEMPERATURE IN LOS ANGELES IN 1875, AS PUBLISHED IN THE HERALD</p></CAPTION>
205.sgm:<illus entity="a205-0004" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TEMPERATURE IN LOS ANGELES IN THE YEAR 1871 COMPILED BY MR. BRODERICK</p></CAPTION>
205.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>25</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>THE FOLLOWING TABLE OF TEMPERATURES WAS COMPILED BY</p><P>MR. LOUIS LEWIN IN LOS ANGELES FROM AUGUST, 1875, TO</p><P>JULY, 1876, AND IS HEREIN REPRODUCED WITH</p><P>HIS PERMISSION</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<illus entity="a205-0011" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE IN ANAHEIM OVER A PERIOD OF EIGHTEEN MONTHS, BEGINNING JANUARY 1, 1874.  COMPILED BY EDWIN S. SAXTON</p></CAPTION>
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205.sgm:<illus entity="a205-0012" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>These give the lowest temperature in the preceding night, the highest in the day, as well as that at 7 a.m. and 7 p.m.  These also indicate the exceptional frosts of the year 1875--the lowest temperatures in twenty years.</p></CAPTION>
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205.sgm:<illus entity="a205-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>TEMPERATURE IN SAN GABRIEL IN THE YEAR 1869 COMPILED BY B. C. TRUMAN</p></CAPTION>
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205.sgm:<P>METEOROLOGICAL REPORT FROM ANAHEIM FOR 13 MONTHS</p><P>(FROM JULY 1, 1872, TO JULY 31, 1873).</p><P>FURNISHED BY FRANCIS S. MILES</p><P><HI REND="italics">From observations made at 8 a.m., 1 p.m., and 6 p.m</HI>
205.sgm:. July, 1872.  HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 7.1&deg; to 6&deg;.  THERMOMETER: Average temperature 72 3/4&deg; high 83&deg;, low 66&deg;.  For 5 days the temperature was above 80&deg; at 1 p.m.  Bright sunshine 30 days; cloudy and rainy, 1 day.</p><P>AUGUST, 1872.  HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry  bulb, 8&deg;.  THERMOMETER: 72 3/4&deg;, high 94&deg;, low 68&deg;.   For  9 days the temperature was over 80&deg; at 1 p.m. and 2 days over  83&deg;. Bright sunshine 20 days; sunshine and clouds, 10 days; 1 day  cloudy.</p><P>SEPTEMBER, 1872.  HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry  bulb 8.1&deg; to 10&deg;.  THERMOMETER: Average temperature 74&deg;, high 90&deg;, low 62&deg;.  For 5 days the thermometer was over 80&deg;, and 1 day over 83&deg; at 1 p.m.  Bright sunshine for 28 days; sunshine and clouds, 1 day; cloudy, 1 day.</p><P>OCTOBER, 1872.  HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry  bulb 8 1/3&deg;.  THERMOMETER: Average temperature 69 1/4&deg;, high  96&deg;, low 58&deg;.  For 4 days the temperature was over 80&deg; at 1  p.m., and on 1 day over 83&deg;.  Bright sunshine 27 days; sunshine and clouds, 1 day.</p><P>NOVEMBER, 1872.  HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry  bulb 11 7/8&deg;.  THERMOMETER: Average temperature 68&deg;, high  85&deg;, low 55&deg;.  For 6 days the temperature was below 60&deg; at  8 a.m.  Bright sunshine 26 days; sunshine and clouds 3 days; stormy 1  day.</p><P>DECEMBER, 1872.  HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 6.1&deg;to 6&deg;.  THERMOMETER: Average daily temperature 62&deg;, high 77&deg;, low 50&deg;.  Bright sunshine 17 days; sunshine and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:strength rapidly, being able to sleep in comfort because of the coolness of the nights.  In some countries, the cold weather prevents proper ventilation; in others, heat precludes exercise.  Out here, both are available.  An active life is not only pleasant but extremely feasible; in this climate it is not exhausting.  Local conditions are especially beneficial for pulmonary ailments, asthma, liver trouble, nervous disorders, and old age.  The sunny skies, the delightful winter climate, and the beautiful walks all contribute to make Los Angeles a veritable sanitarium.  In this respect the country in and around San Gabriel is even superior to that of Los Angeles.  Without a doubt, however, semi-tropical California will become at some future date a noted health resort for the entire Union.</p><P>The invalid can find health in Los Angeles; the rich, a life of ease and pleasure in an earthly paridise, devoid of winter cold and summer heat.</p><P>Earthquakes occur fairly frequently, usually in August; this is probably why many rich families prefer to live in wooden houses.  Of recent earthquakes, three were especially severe.  On July 10, 1855, the walls of 26 houses in Los Angeles were cracked by an earthquake. None, however, was destroyed, although several citizens were killed. Another was felt on January 9, 1857; this, which was the most severe, extended from Fort Yuma to Sacramento--a distance of several hundred miles.  At this time the Los Angeles river rose from its bed, while in the San Gabriel Valley a crack 7 miles long was opened.  At 12:45, on October 8, 1865, occurred another strong shock that affected the coastal valleys from San Luis Obispo to Humboldt Bay.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 3</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>FLORA AND FAUNA</p><P>LOS ANGELES COUNTY, generally speaking, is not rich in native trees. With the exception of the live-oak, the California Roble ( <HI REND="italics">Quercus agrifolia</HI>
205.sgm: ), which forms groves or little woods on the hills and in the valleys, it is often necessary to travel a considerable distance before encountering plane-trees, the aliso and sycamore ( <HI REND="italics">Platanus racemosa</HI>
205.sgm: ) which rise so gracefully here and there in the meadows. Often these are young, vigorous, and full of life; again they will be found lying on the ground, dry and rotten from old-age, and blocking the road.  Poplars ( <HI REND="italics">Alamo</HI>
205.sgm: ), cottonwoods ( <HI REND="italics">Populus argentea</HI>
205.sgm: ), the California horse-chestnut ( <HI REND="italics">Aesculus Californica</HI>
205.sgm: )--whose nuts are used by the Indians for food--and a species of willow ( <HI REND="italics">Salix rastrata</HI>
205.sgm: ) are also fairly common. With the exception of these, it is necessary to go far up into the mountains to find large trees; there, however, many trees of great size, particularly conifers, grow.  Especially worthy of note is the redwood ( <HI REND="italics">Sequoia sempervirens</HI>
205.sgm: ) which is frequently found in the coast ranges.  It belongs to the species known as the Big Trees of California, which are now ranked as one of the wonders of the world. These are the second in size, and the first in commercial importance, of the Big Trees of California.  Of almost equal splendor is the sugar-pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus lambertiana</HI>
205.sgm: ) with its giant needles, in length as long as a shoe.  The yellow pine ( <HI REND="italics">Pinus ponderosa</HI>
205.sgm: ), the Arbor Vitae, the so-called cedar ( <HI REND="italics">Thuya gigantea</HI>
205.sgm: ) and the white cedar ( <HI REND="italics">Libocedrus decurrens</HI>
205.sgm: ) are also fairly common.</p><P>Various kinds of evergreen shrubs are also found growing rankly on the hillsides and in shadowy valleys such as laurel <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>24</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:(<HI REND="italics">Oreodaphne Californica</HI>
205.sgm: ), the madron&tilde;a ( <HI REND="italics">Arbutus menziesii</HI>
205.sgm: ), the manzanita ( <HI REND="italics">Arctostaphylos glauca</HI>
205.sgm: ), which lends itself so readily to artistic effects, and the long-leaved and exquisitely green <HI REND="italics">Celastrus obtusata.  Eriogonum fasciculatum</HI>
205.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Eremocarpus setigerus</HI>
205.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Euphorbiacee</HI>
205.sgm:, are all characteristic of California.<ANCHOR ID="n3-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Since this is not an opportune place for discussing the many plants of California, only two of the most remarkable varieties will be mentioned.  The first of these is the poison-ivy, <HI REND="italics">Yedra (Rhus toxicodendron</HI>
205.sgm: ).  This plant is somewhat dangerous since contact with the leaf and stalk causes a most irritating eruption of the skin, accompanied by severe inflammation. Down in the vicinity of Los Angeles, particularly in can&tilde;ons formerly cut by rivers, this plant is often found clinging closely to the trees.  The fruit, when cooked, is not harmful.  Entirely harmless, too, is the <HI REND="italics">Chlorogalum pomeridianus</HI>
205.sgm:, whose onion-like bulb when rubbed in water form s a kind of lather that is used to remove dirt.<ANCHOR ID="n3-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Among the Indians and Californians it was frequently used for this purpose.  The <HI REND="italics">Agave Americana</HI>
205.sgm: is indigenous as are several varieties of <HI REND="italics">Cereus</HI>
205.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Opuntia</HI>
205.sgm: that resemble them.<ANCHOR ID="n3-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-1"><HI REND="italics">Celastrus obtusata</HI>
205.sgm: is commonly known as bittersweet; <HI REND="italics">eriogonum fasciculatum</HI>
205.sgm: as buckwheat; <HI REND="italics">euphorbiacee</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-2"><HI REND="italics">Chlorogalum pomeridianus</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-3"><P><HI REND="italics">Agave Americana</HI>
205.sgm: is the century-plant;</p><P><HI REND="italics">opuntia</HI>
205.sgm:<P>The fields in and about Los Angeles are particularly rich in flowers. Thus in March they appear to be cloaked in red; in April, in blue; while in May they resemble masses of pure gold.  The latter may be ascribed to the orange-colored poppy ( <HI REND="italics">Eschcholtzia</HI>
205.sgm: ), which is aptly called <HI REND="italics">Copa de Oro</HI>
205.sgm:,--cup of gold.</p><P>The ocean off this coast is also peculiarly rich in vegetation, sea-weed ( <HI REND="italics">Macrocystis pyrifera</HI>
205.sgm: ), often 200 yards long, being common.</p><P>Among important ocean fauna found in California should be mentioned the <HI REND="italics">Teredo navalis</HI>
205.sgm:, the destructive <HI REND="italics">Limnoria</HI>
205.sgm:, and the abalone ( <HI REND="italics">Haliotis</HI>
205.sgm: ).<ANCHOR ID="n3-4">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: The latter, which is 5 or 6 inches in length, clings in masses to the rocks and is removed by spades at the exact instant when its tenacious grip is relaxed.  It is then dried and sold to the Chinese, who consider this a great delicacy.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-4"><HI REND="italics">Teredo navalis</HI>
205.sgm:<P>The local waters are also fairly rich in fishes.  Of major <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>25</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:importance among those found are the Jewfish ( <HI REND="italics">Stereolepis gigas</HI>
205.sgm: ), the Sunfish ( <HI REND="italics">Orthagoriscus analis</HI>
205.sgm: ), the gay-colored ( <HI REND="italics">Labrus pulcher</HI>
205.sgm:, and the anchovy ( <HI REND="italics">Engraulis mordax</HI>
205.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">manus</HI>
205.sgm: ).  A flying-fish ( <HI REND="italics">Exocetus Californicus</HI>
205.sgm: ) is also frequently seen in Californian waters.  In the rivers are also many other kinds of fishes; the salmon, Quinnat salmon ( <HI REND="italics">Salmo quinnat</HI>
205.sgm: ), abundant between November and June; two kinds of trout, the brook trout ( <HI REND="italics">Salar iridea</HI>
205.sgm: ); and the salmon trout ( <HI REND="italics">Ptychocheilus grandis</HI>
205.sgm: ).</p><P>On the continent, tarantulas are numerous.  These creatures live in holes filled with an ingenious kind of lid or cover.  Oddly enough, they are often chased and killed by wasps, who then lay eggs on their bodies.  Among other deadly insects are such creatures as the scorpion, and, most important of all, the rattlesnake.  These, however, have been largely exterminated in the settled regions in and about Los Angeles.</p><P>Among birds, one that is peculiarly striking and frequently seen is the scavenger turkey vulture, the so-called Californian <HI REND="italics">Auras (Cathartes aura</HI>
205.sgm: ), a shining black creature with a head of brilliant red.  These are highly esteemed because they consume old refuse.  Less common is the road-runner, <HI REND="italics">paisano (Geococcyx Californicus</HI>
205.sgm: ), who is supposed to kill rattlers.  Especially common is the small burrowing owl ( <HI REND="italics">Athene cunicularia</HI>
205.sgm: ), which has one salient peculiarity: it lives in the same hole as the <HI REND="italics">Spermophilus</HI>
205.sgm:, and is often seen sitting day after day on a tiny hummock of earth thrown up at the mouth of the hole.<ANCHOR ID="n3-5">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: The blue-black glistening <HI REND="italics">Icterus</HI>
205.sgm: is also indigenous to Southern California; its favorite haunts are brooks where, close to Los Angeles, it may be seen flying back and forth much like the starlings in our own country.<ANCHOR ID="n3-6">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Varieties of poultry include the Californian quail ( <HI REND="italics">Lophortyx Californicus</HI>
205.sgm: ) and <HI REND="italics">Oreortyx pictus</HI>
205.sgm:, which are frequently found in the forests.<ANCHOR ID="n3-7">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-5"><HI REND="italics">Spermophilus</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-6"><HI REND="italics">Icterus</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n3-7"><HI REND="italics">Oreortyx pictus</HI>
205.sgm:<P>In the animal kingdom the ground squirrels ( <HI REND="italics">Spermophilus Beecheyi and Douglasii</HI>
205.sgm: ) are especially worthy of note, primarily because they are so numerous and lend to the landscape so <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>46</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>26</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:animated an appearance.  These little creatures are wonderfully pretty and energetic; time and again I have watched their antics out in the sunny fields with the keenest pleasure.  As soon as they think no one is watching they creep out quietly and mysteriously from their burrows, sit up on their haunches, look carefully around, and run and jump together with such vivacity that their shrill chatter can be heard for a considerable distance.  Again they eat greedily, while sitting quietly on little heaps of earth.  Nearby, like well-mannered but interested veterans, are a few silent owls, like so many dumb witnesses.  If a carriage happens to drive along or if the slightest noise is heard every squirrel, with tail held high, rushes into his hole, leaving the fields empty and silent where, only a moment before, they had been so full of animation.  Later, encouraged by the ensuing silence, they again poke their tiny heads with their sparkling black eyes out from their subterranean houses.  I took several of these creatures back with me to Europe feeding them solely on oats and found constant amusement watching their flirtatious ways.  When annoyed they emitted a peculiar grunting sound quite unlike their usual high-pitched cries expressing joy, especially when they saw food.  In grain-fields and in vegetable gardens they are a constant pest, causing considerable damage.  Almost as injurious is another rodent, the gopher ( <HI REND="italics">Thomomys bulbiforus</HI>
205.sgm: ), who lives, in the main, underground, gnawing the roots of vegetables and fruit-trees.  Another species is the Colorado gopher ( <HI REND="italics">Thomomys fulvus</HI>
205.sgm: ), which, however, is not so prevalent.</p><P>A jumping-rat ( <HI REND="italics">Don Jerboa</HI>
205.sgm: ), and two kinds of hare, <HI REND="italics">Lepus trowbridgii</HI>
205.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Audubonii</HI>
205.sgm:, as well as the rabbit ( <HI REND="italics">Lepus artemisia</HI>
205.sgm: ), are indigenous to these regions.</p><P>The principal cud-chewing animals are the antelope ( <HI REND="italics">Antilocapra Americana</HI>
205.sgm: ), which is, unfortunately, rapidly being exterminated, the mountain sheep ( <HI REND="italics">Ovis Montana</HI>
205.sgm: ) and high up in the Sierras, two kinds of elk, the American Elk ( <HI REND="italics">Cervus Canadensis</HI>
205.sgm: ), and the Black-tailed Deer ( <HI REND="italics">Cervus Columbianus</HI>
205.sgm: ).</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>47</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>27</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>Among beasts of prey the most important is the puma ( <HI REND="italics">Felis concolor</HI>
205.sgm: ), a fine-appearing but cowardly animal who roams only after dark.  Nomadic in habit, he moves constantly from place to place, except when hiding in the underbrush.  He prizes, above all else, young calves.  The lynx ( <HI REND="italics">Lynx rufus</HI>
205.sgm: ), is also frequently encountered up in the mountains, as well as the mountain cat ( <HI REND="italics">Bassaris astuta</HI>
205.sgm: ) an intelligent, pretty little creature which is often domesticated by the mountaineers.</p><P>Coyotes ( <HI REND="italics">Canis Latrans</HI>
205.sgm: ), animals that howl all night long much like a chorus of jackals, are very numerous and prey omnivorously on poultry, lambs, and young pigs.  The latter they are especially skilful in catching, stealing up and surprising them while the sow, wild with rage, pursues the culprit.  Travelling, as a rule, in bands, they often attack cows, catching them by their throats.  They are born thieves and it is not unusual to have them steal even from a guarded camp.  When starving they will even eat the ropes, containing tallow, which are used to tie horses; however, they will not touch those woven from hair.  For this reason the early Californians used the latter kind of rope exclusively for this purpose.</p><P>A small weasel with a white neck ( <HI REND="italics">Mustela</HI>
205.sgm: ) is often seen in and around Los Angeles.  In the mountains live two species of bear, the cinnamon-brown, and the grizzly ( <HI REND="italics">Ursus horribilis</HI>
205.sgm: ). The latter, who is in the habit of roving at night, goes out after swine as well as many kinds of roots, fruits, and vegetables.  Owing to the zealousness of hunters who wage constant warfare on this trouble-some neighbor, he is daily growing rarer.  Sea-lions ( <HI REND="italics">Otaria stelleri</HI>
205.sgm: ), on the contrary, thrive near the shore, being protected by a law that prohibits shooting them within twenty miles of the coast. Groups of fifty or more are often seen swimming, with the swiftness of dolphins, around a ship or travelling by the hundreds up and down the coast, their deep bellowing mingling with the roaring of the waves. Sea-otter ( <HI REND="italics">Enhydra marina</HI>
205.sgm: ) as well are common on the coast; they are particularly fond of abalone <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>48</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>28</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:(<HI REND="italics">Haliotis</HI>
205.sgm: ). Nor is it unusual, when sitting on the beach, to see far off in the distance, a thin column of water being spouted by a whale, especially in the vicinity of Monterey Bay.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>49</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 4</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>POPULATION</p><P>THE county of Los Angeles has a population of some 30,000 inhabitants.  This population is decidedly mixed, for people have streamed into this paradise from all over the world.  Of this number about a quarter are Californians--a term used to designate those of Spanish descent as well as those who have intermarried with Indians. All Anglo-Saxons and, in fact, all settlers from other States in the Union are called, on the other hand, Americans.</p><P>The development of this country dates back only to 1828-9 and 1832.<ANCHOR ID="n4-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: From 1841 on, a number of Americans and foreigners came out as settlers.  It was these settlers who, as has been already observed, not only formed the backbone of the population, but also injected fresh energy into the county.  Intelligent, ambitious, and industrious as these settlers were, they have since taken an important part in the life of the community and become warm supporters of the State where they have attained wealth and prosperity.  For this, indeed, they are fully compensated.  Furthermore, the idea of equality is probably more highly developed out here and, in fact, all over California, than in any other State in the Union, a situation that had its origin no doubt in the rapidly changing conditions in this county. Any stranger, provided he shows good breeding, is looked upon with favor. This land, moreover, is famous for its hospitality.  Among the local Americans chivalry toward women is especially notable.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-1">The commercial development of Los Angeles dates back to the coming of the Americans.  In 1818, Joseph Chapman, the first American settler, reached Los Angeles; in 1826, fifteen trappers, headed by Jedediah Smith came overland; by 1830 many merchants had opened stores near the plaza.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>As a general thing, the inhabitants of California seem stronger and in better health than those in other States, while travellers who have come out from the East are quite surprised by the healthful <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>30</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:coloring of the population as a whole and at the rosy complexions of the children.  What causes this is primarily the favorable climate and the opportunities for being constantly out in the open.</p><P>The name "Pikes," a term applied to certain families who have come out from the southeastern states, merits particular mention.  The name comes from Pike County in Missouri, the home of many of the first Californian settlers.  Most of them are engaged in raising cattle, which they understand thoroughly.  Though hospitable and loyal even toward their enemies, they are, however, not progressive like the other Americans.  The inhabitants out here are fond of cracking jokes at their expense, whether true or fictitious.  The negro population is about a hundred; several in Los Angeles are very rich, although they are not much in evidence.</p><P>The language most commonly used, at least by the Americans, is English; however, it is mixed with many Californianisms, mostly words of Spanish origin, which are in general usage.  Many odd expressions that have originated in mining-camps are also heard.</p><P>Every kind of religious belief is represented, but these will be discussed later when the churches of Los Angeles are enumerated.  The majority of the population is, however, Catholic.  In 1769 the Catholic mission of San Gabriel was established; ten years later San Juan Capistrano was founded; in 1797 that of San Fernando and, considerably later, Los Angeles.<ANCHOR ID="n4-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In addition to these churches which are still in existence, there are three more Catholic churches in the county: at San Jose&acute; Wilmington, and Anaheim.  There are many Jews in this county, but only among the American colony.  All sects show the greatest to tolerance toward one another.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n4-2">Mission San Gabriel was founded in 1771; San Juan Capistrano in 1775.  The plaza church was begun in 1818 and completed in 1822; this present structure was remodeled in 1861 from the original building.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Throughout California the schools receive great attention; in this respect California ranks well up with the other states in the Union. While many of the schools were established some time ago, yet they keep well abreast of the times.  The following data will indicate how rapidly the schools are growing.  On July 1, 1873, Los Angeles County had 6,101 school children in 39 districts (in 1866, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>31</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:only 12 existed), 44 school-houses and 55 teachers.  Only three districts outside of Los Angeles have either intermediate or elementary schools.  The taxes levied by the state and county to cover teachers salaries and miscellaneous expenses amount to less than $50,000.  On July 1, 1875, there were 7,787 pupils, an increase in two years of 1,686 children; 48 districts, an increase of 9; and 72 teachers in Latin, intermediate, and primary schools. Three schools have since been added, bringing the total increase up to 28. School-funds now amount to $81,000, an increase of over $30,000.  On July 1, 1872, the total valuation placed on school property was $131,000--an increase of $47,000.</p><P>The population, on the whole, is fond of outings, the lack of rain during the summer season affording opportunity for innumerable picnics. One of the most popular summer diversions is sea-bathing, especially down at Santa Monica.  Of this, however, more will be said later.  Many of the more energetic citizens go over to Santa Catalina, which lies about 30 miles off the coast, for this purpose.  In the cities one of the favorite diversions is billiards.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 5</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>GLIMPSES OF THE PAST AND PRESENT</p><P>THE CALIFORNIANS</p><P>ONE day one of the early Californians, an idle and talkative old fellow who knew this <HI REND="italics">El Dorado</HI>
205.sgm: in its halcyon days, during the Spanish and Mexican re&acute;gime, said to me, "The Spanish  colony in Los Angeles is now like a devastated grain field."  No one will deny that even if the material prosperity dates from the day when the stars and stripes were unfurled, yet the true poetry of California is inseparably linked with the Spanish element.  The patriarchal mode of life--which is now entirely past--that centered around the old missions, was essentially a happy one.  Since settlers were comparatively few in this vast country, they lived like kings in their own domains, bound together only by mutual interests.  Land having very little value, vast land-grants were made by the government to individuals.  If more land was required it was given merely for the asking.<ANCHOR ID="n5-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: For dowries their daughters received the choicest of lands from the public domains. Cattle grazed unmolested in the finest pasturage.  What was brought in from the hunt was always divided and whatever one neighbor requested from another was always given.  Poverty was a thing unknown, the poor lived at the houses of their rich relatives whose doors were always open. The Indians were trained to act as servants.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-1"><HI REND="italics">Ranchos</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Whenever the lord and master of one of these establishments traveled, he was always welcomed at private homes and supplied, free of charge, with board and lodging.  Not only was he <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>34</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:entertained, but even a clean shirt was furnished in the morning.  Where he was personally known to the family he was presented with one or two hundred dollars; from this he took what was needed.  If his horse was tired, a fresh one was supplied for the day's journey.As a general thing the luggage carried by a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
205.sgm: consisted only of a blanket, in which he rolled himself to rest, a horse-hair rope for picketing his horse, and a lasso.  In a small bag fastened to his saddle was some <HI REND="italics">pinole</HI>
205.sgm: --corn ground between stones and roasted--which, mixed with sugar, made a good breakfast.  Whenever his horse showed signs of giving out, he would lasso another in the nearest field, repeating this until he reached his destination.</p><P>The early Californians supported themselves by raising cattle; for recreation they went hunting.  On Sundays, both gentlemen and ladies formed in an impressive cavalcade and went to church.  The even tenor of their daily lives, however, was frequently interrupted by festivals. These usually centered about the old missions and were semi-religious and semi-secular in character.  To attend these many came from a distance of 50 miles or more, and re mained one or two weeks.  The mission fathers, who had vast cattle lands, acted as hosts to the entire countryside.  In this way a firm bond was formed between priest and parishioners, which materially strengthened the community spirit.  The simple needs of these people were supplied from their own ranches; meat, milk, and cheese were furnished by the cattle, while on their own vast acres the grain, which was ground between stones by the Indian women, was raised.  On the larger ranches, moreover, the Indians who had been taught by the mission fathers were employed at such manual work as tanning the hides of sheep and cattle to be used for garments, blanket weaving, and other labor.  To secure such luxuries as tea, coffee, or women's clothing, hides, horns, and melted tallow were often sold to Yankee traders.  Much of the richest land, however, lay fallow; few trees were planted, and only a few fields--most were used primarily for pasturage--were placed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>55</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>35</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:under cultivation.  Nevertheless, fortune favored them.  Though living in the utmost simplicity, they were practically independent, and were their own masters.  With the coming of the railroads and the consequent changes how deeply they must miss the pastoral days of California!</p><P>Those noble traits that distinguished them in the times past have been retained, even down to the present.  Among these was selfrestraint and moderation, especially in drinking, generosity, and a Spartan-like way of enduring physical hardship.  At the same time, these Californians were good-natured, pleasant, and so kind toward their subordinates that they became warmly attached to their masters.  Skillful and tactful in their handling of men, they were also noted for their hospitality, their friendliness, and their dignity.</p><P>But as business men they were unsuccessful, for they desired merely to live in peace and comfort.  With the influx of Americans into California the value of cattle soared; owners of herds, finding themselves rich overnight, spent lavishly.  Much of this wealth went into ostentatious luxuries; saddles studded with gold and silver, golden stirrups and spurs, reins with silver chains, costly lace bedspreads, and elaborate silk dresses for the ladies.<ANCHOR ID="n5-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Before long the frugal Americans owned the land and today the Californians do not own one-twentieth of what they possessed in 1848.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-2">Many of these luxuries were brought around the Horn by Yankee trading vessels who put in at San Pedro and sold their wares to the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Since the Spanish settlers who migrated to California in the days of Spanish rule brought few women with them, many married Indians.  The majority of the present-day Californians are the descendants of these marriages.  Under the former Spanish and Mexican re&acute;gimes those of pure Spanish blood alone comprised the local aristocracy.  Even now they are the most prominent Californians and number in all about fifteen families.  Those of mixed blood, on the contrary, are nick-named "greasers."  Those who came originally from the Mexican province of Sonora are known as "Sonoranians."  The Californians living here prior to the days <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>56</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>36</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:of the American occupation had extraordinarily large families and lived to a ripe old age.  Many, in fact, were centenarians. This may be caused, on the one hand, by the milder climate; on the other, by the mode of life.  Out in the San Gabriel Valley at the present time there is living a woman 135 years old.  She has several healthy children--the youngest of these is now eighty--and has assisted at the mission church for over 100 years.  She has a wrinkled face, stringy, brittle hair, excellent hearing, and a good-natured smile.<ANCHOR ID="n5-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n5-3">This remarkable woman, Eulalia Perez de Guillen, who at one time owned the land on which Pasadena is now located, was probably about 141 years old at the time of Salvator's visit to Los Angeles.  She was born in Loreto in 1735 and died at San Gabriel in 1878.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The Californians, all in all,--most of whom are the descendants of Spanish-Indian stock--are a healthful, strong people.  They have heavy features, mild, pleasant, expressive, black eyes, and smooth hair.  In color they are dark; this increases with age, as does their corpulency.</p><P>The Spaniards have not clung to their characteristic costume. However, in outfitting their horses, they follow their old customs. Among these is the use of exquisitely wrought Mexican-style high saddles of fine leather with embossed decoration; a saddle-bag, used for carrying a rolled coat or blanket; reins composed of small balls ending in a chain; a whip made of gut strings for urging on their horses, and buckled spurs bent sharply down, which complete the riding equipment of a gentleman.  Characteristic of the feminine costume is the use of a kind of shawl or <HI REND="italics">mantilla</HI>
205.sgm: which is thrown over the left shoulder.</p><P>Most Californians live in the country; their chief wealth, even now, is land and cattle.  The principal occupation of the lower classes is herding cattle.  Their daily routine is rarely varied--they both rise and retire at an early hour.  Their food is extremely simple.  Beef, especially dried beef ( <HI REND="italics">carne seca</HI>
205.sgm: is the staple food of the <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
205.sgm:, together with tortillas, that is, wheat or corn cakes. The chief beverage is tea or coffee with, occasionally, wine.  At the close of the evening a few cigarettes are smoked.  In every way they are a very cleanly people.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>57</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>37</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>They have many beautiful folk-songs and dance the <HI REND="italics">jota</HI>
205.sgm:, which is similar to the <HI REND="italics">aragonesa</HI>
205.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">fandango</HI>
205.sgm: with the greatest enjoyment.  The Castilian tongue is usually heard, with the addition, however, of many colloquialisms.  Conspicuous among these is their failure to accent certain syllables.  For instance, in place of <HI REND="italics">pai&acute;is</HI>
205.sgm:, they say <HI REND="italics">pa&acute;is</HI>
205.sgm:, meaning land or country.  Their children learn very rapidly and retain their own tongue, while those who associate with them soon learn to speak Spanish.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>58</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 6</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>THE INDIANS</p><P>IN the early days there were many Indians in California.  When the first census was taken in 1823, there were 100,826.  By 1863 there were only 29,300 and now there are probably less than 20,000.  It is greatly to the credit of the mission fathers to have been able to civilize these wild Indians and to have taught them, as well as religion, useful industries.  Assimilation with the Spaniards who, instead of inciting the Indians to hostility, intermarried with them, accounts for the mixed blood of the Californians.  And while even today in the country it is not uncommon for men to marry Indian women, a white woman practically never marries an Indian man.  Californian Indians, as a whole, are not malicious and far less warlike than those tribes who live like beasts in the central and eastern parts of America.  Between the years 1825-1840, however, the settlers were the victims of a series of attacks.<ANCHOR ID="n6-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-1">Several Indian outbreaks were experienced by the settlers, especially south of Los Angeles.  Warner's Ranch was the scene of a serious Indian raid, when the buildings were destroyed.  Two California girls in San Diego were also captured by Indians.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>These Indians of California have large bodies but small hands and feet.  The average height of the men is 5 1/2 feet, of the women 4 feet and 10 inches.  Physically they are very sturdy.  At one time long-lived, they are now becoming strongly addicted to brandy.  The women drink as well as the men.  This, together with the prevalence of syphilis, which has been brought in by the Europeans, is what has increased their death rate and materially shortened their span of life.</p><P>When used--as they are throughout the county--as laborers they are harmless and industrious, although somewhat slow.  To counterbalance this they are very cleanly, a trait they have acquired from the old Spanish-Californians.  Their huts are made of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>40</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:reeds and straw with a framework of long poles.  For weapons they use spears and arrows tipped with obsidian or bone.  From this same stone or obsidian, knives as large as a man's hand and sharp on one edge are made.  Now, however, they have fire-arms and modern tools as well.  From wire grass they braid baskets; numbers of these are quite attractive.  Many of them raise cattle.  They live with the utmost simplicity and consume mainly acorns, clover, grass-seed, horse-chestnuts, roots, and berries.  Clover is eaten raw.  The acorns are gathered by the women, pounded with a pestle and rubbed between flat stones, mixed with boiling water, and baked into cakes.  Both horse-chestnuts and grass seed, after being pounded in a mortar, are usually made into a soup or stew.  Fish and wild game are roasted over a coal fire.  In so doing they observe the customs of the Spanish-Californians.</p><P>The Indians in the vicinity of Los Angeles are known as the <HI REND="italics">Cahinas</HI>
205.sgm:; those in San Timoteo (about 200 in all) are called the <HI REND="italics">San Juanen&tilde;os</HI>
205.sgm:, and are strongly addicted to drink. In the La Jolla Reserve are the <HI REND="italics">San Luisen&tilde;os</HI>
205.sgm:; in Kasteki, the <HI REND="italics">Ferdinandin&tilde;os</HI>
205.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n6-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: These come into Los Angeles toward the end of August to trade or hire out as laborers.  Many of them are fairly well educated and can read and write Spanish.  Some of the sons of the chieftains speak English; many indeed, are said to have forgotten the language of their fathers.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n6-2"><P>The Southern Californian Indians belong to the Shoshonean tribe, but were usually referred to as Serranos, or mountaineers.  Local groups, however, took the name of the nearest mission.  Thus, there were the <HI REND="italics">San Fernandin&tilde;os</HI>
205.sgm: (San Fernando); the</p><P><HI REND="italics">Gabrielin&tilde;os</HI>
205.sgm: (San Gabriel); the <HI REND="italics">Juanen&tilde;os</HI>
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205.sgm:<illus entity="a205-0014" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>THE CHINESE QUARTER OF LOS ANGELES</p></CAPTION>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 7</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>THE CHINESE QUESTION</p><P>NO PROBLEM in California has caused more agitation and has more closely affected the community at large than that of the inhabitants of the Celestial Kingdom.  Of late considerable anti-Chinese agitation has sprung up.  A group has been formed that has declared, both by word and deed, a veritable war against this peaceful Mongolian invasion.  As seen through the eyes of a European, it is idle to deny that much can be said on both sides of the question.  Looking at this purely from the legal standpoint--there is a law permitting them to immigrate, to remain in the country, to work, but not to take out naturalization papers--the Chinese have every right to remain in the country, and to expel them would be a miscarriage of law and justice.  In fact, now that they are here, their presence has become essential to most inhabitants of California.  Esteemed for their loyalty, they are used in railroad construction, in mining, as gardeners, as farmers, and as workmen in manufacturing enterprises.  In these various lines they have been highly successful, and without their help another quarter of a century might have elapsed before the material wealth of California could have attained its present development.</p><P>Furthermore, becuase of their suitability and cleanliness many homes use them as cooks and stewards.  They also make especially capable laundrymen.  Chinamen are hard workers and do not drink excessively. Since their needs are easily satisfied they are contented to work for much lower wages than white workers.</p><P>On the other hand, it is held that since these heathen do not observe Sunday, they are a demoralizing influence in a Christian <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>63</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:Francisco and workmen are hired for a period of several years at the low wage of from four to eight dollars a month.</p><P>In Los Angeles the Chinese have their own quarters and are greatly in demand as laborers.  Some have intermarried with Europeans.  These are easily recognized by their appearance.  American boys frequently hold up to scorn and ridicule these younger sons of China.  At times, even the adults indulge in fist-fights which are brought about, as a general thing, by prolonged mistreatment.<ANCHOR ID="n7-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n7-1">On October 24, 1871, down in Nigger Alley near the present plaza occurred a serious Chinese war in which one American was killed and several Chinese massacred.  For a full account see Williard:  <HI REND="italics">History of Los Angeles</HI>
205.sgm:<P>They live plainly and consume quantities of abalones.  Ground squirrels and pork are among their favorite foods.  All in all, they are not popular and in Los Angeles the anti-Chinese feeling is highly developed.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>65</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 8</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>HOUSES</p><P>THE exterior of a house invariably indicates whether it belongs to an American or a Californian.  That of the former is constructed of wood, and seldom of tile, while that of the latter is made of unbaked brick, clay, and adobe.</p><P>Wooden houses, on the other hand, are built usually of redwood, with white pine flooring.  Ordinarily they are constructed with what is known, because of its lightness, as the "balloon frame."  This is sometimes called the Chicago frame, for this was where it originated. The boards or planks are fastened together only with nails.  The foundations are not, as a general thing, very deep--usually one row of bricks in the middle corresponding to the breadth and two at the sides according to the length.  Over this strong planks are placed to conform with the way the rooms are arranged--at least in the case of large houses in the city.  Small houses out in the country are frequently built directly on the bare ground.  Buildings and dwellings last fairly well despite the fact that such light timber as 2x4,s are used.  From the outside these houses present a fairly good appearance; those of the more prosperous families are ornamented with verandas covered with masses of flowers.  Usually the paint is gray or grayish-yellow in color.  Adobe houses are often patterned after those in Mexico.  While not beautiful in appearance, nevertheless they appear comfortable and suitable for this climate.  They are invariably one story high and consist--no matter how affluent the owner--of one suite of rooms.  The roofs are flat and made usually of asphalt ( <HI REND="italics">brea</HI>
205.sgm: ) mixed with coarse sand, which is laid on top of small planks or <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>67</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:boards, through which small wooden spouts are inserted. In some instances the roof is covered with shingles.  Around the house run broad verandas supported by wooden posts.  All the rooms open onto this veranda with the single exception of an ell which does not connect with the porch and has only one small window.  This room is for the unmarried daughters of the house for among the u pper classes in Los Angeles it was customary to lock in their daughters at sunset to shield them from clandestine flirtations.  The interiors of the houses are very simple, many having merely clay floors; everywhere, however, the most scrupulous cleanliness prevails.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>68</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 9</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>AGRICULTURE</p><P>IN RURAL communities, agriculture, truck-gardening, cattle-raising, bee-culture, and mining are the main occupations.  In the city of Los Angeles trade, manufacturing, and fruit-raising are the most important activities.  Agriculture being the basic source of wealth in the country it will be given primary consideration.</p><P>The agricultural zone of Los Angeles County comprises some 3,000 square miles.  Of this about 50 square miles are under irrigation, a similar amount being cultivated without water, while the remaining 2,900 square miles are devoted to cattle-raising.</p><P>Subdivisions in various localities have already proven highly successful and flourishing settlements have sprung up on half-barren fields.  Cattle ranches have now largely passed out of the hands of land-barons for they bring in slight returns when compared with lands under irrigation.  For this reason they should be subdivided in so far as possible, and, wherever feasible, irrigated.  It is impossible to overestimate the importance of the sale of small parcels  of land at low figures.  Many of the large land-owners, however, are now beginning to recognize the benefits to be derived from making lands now lying fallow available to settlers.</p><P>The soil in and around Los Angeles is highly adapted to cultivation as it consists mainly of a sandy-clay and mould.  Along the coastal ranges is found chalky and tertiary-zone sandstone formation.  Here and there near the mountains an occasional outcropping of granite appears.  From the hills and mountains rich alluvial deposits are being constantly washed down by the winter rains which enrich the soil on the lowlands.  Until the first rains fall the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>69</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:what was adequate for only one season.<ANCHOR ID="n9-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: On an average there are 7 good years in every 10; in the others the rainfall is subnormal.  Even in dry years, however, California produces, all in all, more than the eastern states.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-1">In 1862-1863 the rainfall was only four inches; the following year there was practically no rain.  Cattle died off by the thousands on ranges, while whole herds were sold at $.37 1/2 a head. This drought ruined many of the cattle barons, and led to the splitting-up of many of the great ranches.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Nevertheless, in certain sections there is so much moisture that irrigation is unnecessary.  In localities like these the soil requires only a minimum of working and, whenever seed is sown, a good crop invariably follows.  Such lands, however, are limited in area and are quite valuable.  Of these the most notable are El Monte and Gospel Swamp.<ANCHOR ID="n9-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n9-2">Gospel Swamp: a corn-producing settlement near Anaheim Landing.</NOTE>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 10</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>IRRIGATION</p><P>IT has already been indicated how vitally important irrigation is to agricultural in Southern California.  This will now be more fully discussed as well as what opportunities along these lines are available in the county of Los Angeles.  First of all, some indications will be given of the advantages to be derived from irrigation.</p><P>What the soil vitually needs out here is water.  When this is supplied no country will be more fruitful than semi-tropical California. Adequate water not only gives nourishment and refreshment but it also enriches the soil by contributing certain vital elements.  In fact there are certain regions which have been merely watered and not fertilized and yet have proved equally fruitful over 70 years.  This proves the truth of the axiom: The more water, the more fertility.  Water is also valuable as a means of eradicating squirrels, gophers, and rats--these subterranean enemies of many fruit trees.  Los Angeles, however, has an abundant supply of water; as a result its agriculture opportunities are limitless.  There are two kinds of water; running water and springs.  The first of these comes primarily from the principal rivers of the county.  These--which, as has already been enumerated, are the Santa Ana, the San Gabriel, and the Los Angeles Rivers--rise in the mountains, and are fed by gushing streams and springs that orginate in these vast, steep, rugged mountains over a stretch of 15 miles.  For this reason they furnish a constant supply of water which is increased in winter and spring by the rains and the snows melting on the mountains.  Owing to this supply Los Angeles enjoys a greater abundance of water than any other county is Southern California.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>73</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:ditches, but although the bulk of the water has been drawn from both rivers for this purpose, only two-thirds of this land is under irrigation, although, if economically handled under irrigation laws, all could receive water. Los Nietos, together with El Monte, has long had an enviable reputation because of its abundance water and its fine crop of Indian corn.  The valley of San Gabriel and El Monte contains in all about 30,000 acres of land under irrigation; twice this amount, however, could easily be watered.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n10-1">Los Nietos was one of the earliest land grants in Southern California.  It included all land between the Santa Ana and San Gabriel Rivers from the mountains to the sea, and was ranted by Governor Fages to Manuel Nieto in 1784.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Moreover, it would be a simple matter to utilize one of the tributary of San Gabriel--San Jose&acute; creek--that rises east of El Monte, in such a way that ample water could be brought over onto its valley, a valley 20 miles long and a mile broad.</p><P>The Los Angeles River, the next stream of importance, is a westerly tributary of the San Gabriel.  It flows for some 47 miles in a southeasterly direction after rising in the headwaters of the mountains at <HI REND="italics">Mokowenga</HI>
205.sgm: in the far end of the San Fernando Valley.  The city and suburbs of Los Angeles utilize the major part of its waters; incidentally, it irrigates 60,000 acres.  In years past <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
205.sgm: often had disputes over the water supply, but now not only the entire city of Los Angeles but also all the vegetables gardens, orchards, and vineyards that extend for miles around the city are bountifully supplied with water.  There is adequate water, as a matter of fact, for the city to expand out over the entire valley, and enough more to water several square miles.  While Los Angeles has the best water supply around here, yet this should be conserved for future usage.  For this reason, closed ditches would be of material benefit, retarding evaporation.  The waters of the Los Angeles River are municipally controlled and strictly regulated to prevent waste.  The flumes supplied by the water company divert the water from the channel of the river as it emerges from the mountains and before any of it is lost in the sandy ground.  In wet winters, however, a stream of considerable size flows down for some 15 miles through the valley and unites with <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>75</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:the San Gabriel.  The water is brought down into the city from this point of diversion and distributed by ditches, or <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
205.sgm:, for irrigating and domestic purposes.  These vary in size but the majority are 3 feet broad and 1 foot deep.  The water travels at a speed of 5 miles an hour.  Every proprietor is entitled to let the water run for as many hours a week as is justified by the amount of his holdings.  The <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
205.sgm: are in charge of an official called a <HI REND="italics">zanjero</HI>
205.sgm: who regulates the distribution of the waters and sees that the ditches are kept in order.</p><P>In addition to these rivers there are numerous small mountain streams.  Of these the San Pasqual, Santa Anita, San Jose&acute;, San Antonio, Los Coyotes, de la Brea, Santa Agnes, Centinela and Cucamonga are the most important, although they empty neither into rivers nor into the ocean.  Among springs are the San Gabriel and San Fernando, which rise in the Sierra Madre, as well as many at the foot of the mountains that might be utilized for watering 30,000 or 40,000 acres of valley lands.  As a matter of fact several of the most extensive and finest vineyards in the county are watered by such springs.  Of this the best proof is afforded by the thriving settlement of San Gabriel.</p><P>So important is the question of water that it is given constant attention.  Of prime importance are the advantages to be derived from irrigating ditches, which, in California, are frequently handled as community enterprises.  Whatever is of the slightest importance receives attention.  Where the ground is especially low advantage is taken of the fact to build ditches.  These are also valuable for watering cattle and fowl (ducks and geese).  Within a decade, an abundance of water will be available wherever it is needed in the county.</p><P>In addition to surface water, a large part of Los Angeles County has a rich supply of underground water is her artesian wells which have, of late, received considerable notice.  Until recent years there were no flowing wells.  Now, however, they exist by the hundreds, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>76</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:these springs which have turned Los Angeles--formerly nothing but a cattle pasturage--into a veritable garden.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>78</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 11</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>FENCES</p><P>CHARACTERISTIC of the Los Angeles landscape are the fences frequently seen along the irrigation ditches.  These, as well as the water problem, should be given careful consideration.  Usually such fences are of willow saplings, the larger the better.  The largest used are strong saplings having a diameter of 3 inches and a length of 8 feet.  These, which are generally set out in December, are planted 3 feet deep and 9 inches apart. When given ample water they usually thrive and in two years form a thick hedge.  Frequently they are planted from 10 to 20 inches apart and the intervening spaces filled, when the trees are young, with branches.  If large saplings are not available, long shoots 1/2 inch thick and 2 inches long are inserted.  In this case, less than an inch is allowed to protrude above ground.  Five years are required, however, for a dense hedge to form and in the meanwhile, branches and horizontal staves are used to fill the gaps.  By the time eight or ten years have passed, these willows have grown into great trees 15 to 30 feet high, with 5 or 6 branches.  This is done primarily to keep animals out of vineyards and gardens; it also affords pleasant shade on the highways flanked by these willows as well as supplying an abundance of firewood--an important factor in regions devoid of timber.  Their rate of growth depends largely on how much they are watered.</p><P>Sycamore and cottonwood are also used for hedges; even if cut in their second year, when only 8 feet high, they afford considerable fire-wood.  In and about the old missions, the cactus-fruit was frequently used for living hedges but, while it kept out large animals, gophers and squirrels were fond of burrowing under it both <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>79</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:for protection afforded by its large prickly leaves and for the nourishment it furnished.</p><P>Board-fences, as well, are extensively used.  These in the main are 5 feet high and have at 6-foot intervals a redwood stake with 5 staunch redwood boards 6 inches wide and 1 inch thick inserted.  When substantially built they cost $100 a mile.  The vast cattle holdings and the many willow hedges now standing make it inadvisable, at the present writing, to press the "no-fence law" desired by so many landowners.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>80</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 12</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>MISCELLANEOUS PRODUCTS</p><P>IN the variety and extent of its agricultural products, Southern California is the foremost state in the Union, and, with the annual increase in population by the arrival of new settlers who bring in new species from their own homes, this is rapidly growing more extensive. Under cultivation at the present are olive, fig, almond, filbert, walnut, orange, lemon, citron, and lime trees.  The pear, which was planted so extensively by the early Californians and mission fathers, is also raised. Today it is not planted as extensively as formerly, for the varieties introduced were not satisfactory and may have been abandoned, while others have been superseded by better varieties.  The apple tree, moreover, flourishes splendidly and begins to bear after the second year.  By the fifth year it yields a good crop.  Quinces and peaches raised from seed give fruit by the second year.  Apricot trees grow to the gigantic height of 20 feet; plums, prunes, chestnuts--many of which, when 15 years old, give 100 pounds of chestnuts--nectarines, bananas (the West Indian variety is the best grown), and pomegranates flourish.  The latter, which are propagated by seed or slip, grow in great variety.  They do not seem, however, to be greatly in demand in the markets.  Winegrapes of all kinds are grown, as well as every variety of berry and melon.  Pecans and guavas are also found in the gardens while strawberries can be set out every month in the year.  The raising of fruit trees out here assumes extraordinary importance since they grow rapidly and well.  There are, moreover, no worms in the apples and no weevils in plums and cherries. In Los Angeles the fruit trees are usually pruned low; this causes them to bear prematurely.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>81</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:The trunk is covered, the earth around the roots kept dry, and the entire tree protected from the winds.  Nearly all the trees, with the exception of plums and cherries, grow readily. Almonds, however, which are tender when in bloom, often fail to bear. Of the semi-tropical fruits, oranges have attracted the widest interest, and have been most successful.<ANCHOR ID="n12-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Grapes have also proven highly satisfactory.  Wheat, barley, rye, Indian corn, oats, hay, hops, buck-wheat, popcorn, peas, white beans, castor beans, turnips, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes (sweet or Caroline potatoes often attain a weight of 10 pounds), onions (weighing up to 2 3/4 pounds), saffron, and pumpkins in large quantities are also raised in abundance.  Vegetables of every kind, moreover, are under cultivation and grow extraordinarily well, as the size they attain indicates.  Many varieties of cabbages and turnips bear perennially while several kinds of kitchen-garden plants of the seed-bearing variety, when cut back, grow again.  Green Indian corn, paradise-apples, green peas, and all kinds of fresh vegetables are to be had from May on to December.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-1">Orange trees were first introduced at San Gabriel by the mission fathers.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Most of the plants under cultivation, however, have been imported. Grains were brought in largely by the mission fathers, as well as the olive, orange, walnut, almond, and pear trees, date palms and wine grapes, and although these fruits had long been cultivated at the missions yet, in the days of the Spanish <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
205.sgm:, it was impossible to erect hedges to protect the fruit trees from the vast herds of cattle.  Moreover, since the first Americans came out to California during the gold and silver boom, this situation failed to arouse their interest.  Not until a later day did they realize that the wealth of California was on top of, rather than under, the earth.</p><P>The most important facts about the principal plants under cultivation will now be discussed.  The olive tree is grown successfully; only one variety which was probably brought over from Spain is represented.  Trees planted by the missionaries over a hundred years ago are still in excellent condition.  According to estimates, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>82</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:frequently fail to mature properly. They grow best in a sandy, clayey soil.  Several varieties of almonds are grown in Los Angeles, especially the <HI REND="italics">Languedoc</HI>
205.sgm:, which has been developed from trees imported from France.  These blossom late, bear heavily, and have, more-over, a paper-like shell.  From 100 to 150 trees are planted to an acre.  These come into bearing in their third year and by their fifth give 12 pounds to a tree; that is, 1,200 pounds to an acre.  At an average price of $.20 a pound this brings a return of $240 per acre.  The annual revenue from each acre with fully grown trees is estimated at $400.  Young trees suffer from the ravages of squirrels and gophers.  These, however, can be exterminated with patience.</p><P>The walnut tree has been extensively planted in California; Los Angeles alone, according to estimates, has 6,000.  Three-year old trees can be readily transplanted and, by the seventh year, have been known to yield crops.  The tree is very hardy but requires plenty of water.  Given ample irrigation, it spreads over a considerable area. Some even attain a height of 20 feet and send out branches measuring 15 or 20 feet in width.  They are rapid growers; fourteen-year-old trees often have trunks 42 inches in circumference.  They bring in a generous income--often $30 a tree annually.  By the twelfth year the crop amounts to 100 pounds; by the sixteenth year this is doubled.  Thus one acre with 40 twelve-year-old trees gives a crop of 4,000 pounds of nuts, having a value $400.  As the trees grow older, the annual receipts increase proportionately.  With trees in full bearing the returns are estimated to run from $600 to $1,000 an acre.  The demand for preserved green walnuts, moreover, is very great.</p><P>The Franciscans originally introduced the orange tree into California, the first being planted at San Gabriel Mission.  Soon after these came into bearing, Don Luis Vignes started an orchard in Los Angeles.<ANCHOR ID="n12-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This was followed by William Wolfskill's orchard--one of the most celebrated throughout the country--which was the first private undertaking of any magnitude, being developed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>84</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:from what was originally merely a horticultural experiment, or nursery.<ANCHOR ID="n12-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Don Manuel Requena next planted oranges, setting them out in a garden enclosed by an adobe wall.  But on the whole comparatively few orange trees were cultivated.  Fresh impetus was given this industry by the arrival of the Americans.  In 1853 Matthew Keller and Dr. Halsey imported some seeds from Central America and the Hawaiian Islands and established nurseries.<ANCHOR ID="n12-4">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Those of Dr. Harley were the larger.  After the departure of these men, William Wolfskill acquired their holdings.  Dr. Shaw, too, has grown oranges in his nursery from seed brought in from Nicaragua.  Among the early orange-growers Wilson and Rose were especially prominent.  In 1874, 34,700 orange trees were growing in Los Angeles County.  Since that time, however, not only have many new orchards been planted but those already established have been noticeably enlarged, until now with its total of 48,850 orange trees, Los Angeles ranks at the center of orange culture in California.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-2">Jean Vignes came from Bordeaux, France, to Los Angeles in 1829 and later set out the Aliso Vineyard to oranges.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-3">William Wolfskill of Kentucky came across the plains to Los Angeles in 1831, and planted a large vineyard southeast of the city. In 1841 he began raising oranges, soon developing this industry on a large scale.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-4">This was Matthew Keller, known as Don Mateo, who had a shop on the corner of Los Angeles and Commercial Streets.  He was famed as a maker of fancy wines.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>As a general rule the trees are raised from seed, only seeds from the finest oranges being selected for this purpose.  The seeds are planted in pots prepared with sandy, clayey soil, covered over, and the surface kept moist.  It is also feasible to sow them in the ground.</p><P>After three or four years they are transplanted and then require water only five or six times in the dry season.  Years ago it was not considered advisable to attempt to raise oranges from seed, but only from shoots grafted from budded trees.  Mr. Wilson demonstrated that cultivation from seed was the better method.  Stock can be purchased cheaply in the many nurseries in the city of Los Angeles.  Five-year old trees cost $3 a hundred; four-year trees, $1.50 a hundred; three-year trees, $.40 to $.60; two-year trees, $.03 to $.20; and one-year trees, 1/2 cent a hundred.  Forty, 50 and even 60 are planted to an acre. Seven or 8 years after planting from seed the oranges will bear fruit. A large crop, however, is not produced under 12 years.  By the fourteenth year, they produce from 1,500 to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>85</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:Mr. Byle, for instance, derived, from 5 selected thirteen-year-old trees, $1,500.  Their price, in San Francisco, is $30 a thousand.</p><P>The Chinese lemon, which is almost as large as the citron and which ripens all year, has a flavor that for mixed drinks, for fine pastry, as well as for eating, is unexcelled, even by the Sicilian lemon.  Nevertheless, it has not yet come to be popular commercially, although used to some extent for preserves.  According to estimates, there are 8,350 lemon trees in the country.</p><P>For a time, the Mexican lime was cultivated in large quantities; now, however, it is being superseded by trees that are bringing higher profits. Notwithstanding, it is a ready bearer and yields constantly.  Every tree bears fruit at least 10 times a year, bringing in a revenue of $50 to $75 annually.  Since it is a small tree, from 200 to 300 can be planted to an acre.  Their fruits, which at times measure 18 inches, weigh, occasionally, 3 1/2 to 4 pounds.  These are suitable for drinks, medicinal purposes, for salads served with oysters, and, with tender fish, are better than lemons.  The lime, which like the citron is used only for preserves, and which is accordingly less intensively cultivated, requires irrigation.  It bears fruit in 4 or 5 years.  In Los Angeles in the year 1875, 3 trees that were given no special care bore fruit valued at $45.</p><P>Among all the products of Los Angeles none, probably, is more important than the grape.  The so-called mission grape was brought in by the fathers in 1770 and extensively raised by the Indians under this tutelage.  This, presumably, was of the malaga variety known as <HI REND="italics">Vino Carlo</HI>
205.sgm:.  In Mexico, however, from where the first cuttings were imported, many of its salient characteristics were lost, and it no longer resembles the malaga grape.  Though only a fair wine can be made from it, the fathers gave it the preference since it was both hardy and a prolific bearer.  Even now 75 per cent of the grapevines in California are hardy bearers.  In shape it is perfectly round, being when fully developed about three-quarters of an inch in diameter.  While ripening it is of a reddish-brown <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>89</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>White beans return one ton an acre, or $40, and as they can generally be replanted two or three times a year they are a sound investment.</p><P>Potatoes were not in the beginning successful, as they were raised from poor seed in damp soil.<ANCHOR ID="n12-5">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: These conditions produced a variety that was practically unmarketable, being badly spotted.  Given proper cultivation in suitable localities, the results are excellent. They can even be planted as late as the middle of the summer season. An early harvest is followed by a second, and, owing to the dryness of the climate, crops can frequently be left in the ground after ripening. The yield is from 10,000 to 30,000 pounds an acre.  Potatoes prefer a rich, sandy soil.  In Los Angeles, the average price is $.01 1/4 a pound; an acre thus returns approximately $100 to $300 an acre.  At present 1,875 acres are under cultivation.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-5">La Perouse introduced the potato into California from Chili, in 1786, by giving seeds to the mission fathers.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Among plants cultivated, none is so important as alfalfa, or the Chilean clover, whose seeds were brought into California from Chile and which yields an extraordinarily rich harvest, but requires considerable water.  In summer alfalfa grows an inch a day; in winter, half an inch. As a result, it has a growth of 25 feet a year.  It does not require replanting, growing luxuriantly year after year.  Monthly, or at least every three months, if watered or planted in damp soil, it will yield from 12 to 18 tons of rich hay per acre.  When green it makes excellent fodder for livestock.  Indicative of the possible profits to be derived from its cultivation may be mentioned the fact that a farmer in Los Angeles County purchased an acre of land for $50, planting it to alfalfa. He had six harvests, which he sold at $10 a ton.  Since one acre produced 12 tons, the field yielded him $120 an acre profit.</p><P>In concluding, several other plants should be mentioned.  One of these is the cactus or prickly-pear, whose fruits, called <HI REND="italics">nopales</HI>
205.sgm:, are eaten.  <HI REND="italics">Choyas</HI>
205.sgm:, on the other hand, are often found growing wild out on the plains.<ANCHOR ID="n12-6">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This latter fruit is, up to the present time, of no value.  Neither is the giant candelabra-cactus of California <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>96</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:which covers vast areas and affords shelter to wild beasts.  The yucca (bayonet tree), growing so abundantly on the deserts beyond the Sierra Nevada and which affords so majestic an aspect with its tall stems often 35 feet high, can, on the contrary, be utilized in making a high-grade paper.  An eastern firm has already procured machines for this purpose, but has been unable, up to the present, to find cheap transportation.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-6"><HI REND="italics">Choyas (chollas</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Southern California is especially adapted to gardens since so many plants can be made to grow readily and to bloom with extraordinary beauty.  Bushes usually flower for a long period.  Every variety of tree also develops rapidly.  Certain kinds of palm throw out branches measuring 11 feet, and attain a height of 35 feet. Frequently, too, bushes and plants from foreign countries are introduced into these gardens.  Of indigenous plants, the most ornamental bush is the <HI REND="italics">Coenothus</HI>
205.sgm:, which is a prime favorite.<ANCHOR ID="n12-7">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Fuchias, very rapid growers, are popular, as well as roses, of which many varieties are available. The Australian bean (creeping-vine) is frequently seen; it produces thick evergreen foliage, heavy with blossoms, and is often used to cover verandas.  The handsome pepper tree that yields the white pepper of commerce, is seen everywhere. Out here, however, it is utilized solely for ornamental purposes.  The blue-gum, <HI REND="italics">Eucalyptus globulus</HI>
205.sgm:, is likewise a favorite.  The latter deserves special mention since it is planted in masses everywhere.  It grows with extraordinary rapidity, as much as 20 feet a year.  The varying shape of the leaves is worthy of note.  These are usually broad and round, but if well nourished they grow into an elongated, lance-like shape.  Even with poor soil old trees will usually have long leaves.  Young trees with long leaves will, when planted in rich soil, send out shoots with amazing rapidity.  Although developing with much rapidity, eucalyptus furnishes a strong, hard, durable wood.  Large areas of this useful tree have, moreover, already been planted.  The largest forest is on the Anaheim branch of the Southern Pacific at a point where it crosses <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>97</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:the San Gabriel River, about 12 miles from Los Angeles, where 190,000 trees have been set out.  This forest belongs to the Forest Grove Association of which Judge Widney is president.<ANCHOR ID="n12-8">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In December 10 pounds of seed were brought down from San Francisco, and the seeds planted in a nursery.  When two months, the shoots were transplanted into a box and set 2 inches apart.  By April, the young plants had a height of 9 or 10 inches, and at that time they were set out in the ground 10 feet apart.  Within a year they were from 9 to 12 feet high.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-7"><HI REND="italics">Coenothus (ceanothus</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n12-8">Judge Robert M. Widney came to Los Angeles from Ohio in 1868, subsequently playing an important part in the city's activities.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Not enough emphasis can be laid on the advantages of reforestation. In addition to the small number of evergreens and alders that are found growing in limited areas, the plains are unwooded.  What groves are found have no value for productive purposes except indirectly, by attracting moisture.  In fact there is a law compensating anyone planting trees along a road fronting or passing through his property.</p><P>In the canyons north of the mountains there are, however, extensive forests which can be utilized and which are accessible partly by the San Fernando and Cajon Passes and which will, within a short time, have a more direct connection.  Up to the present writing, on account of the difficulities of transportation, building materials are brought into Los Angeles by sea from ports along the north coast of California.  After the lumber is taken off the ships, they are loaded again with grain. Two kinds of wood are imported, redwood and cedar (known as Oregon pine). The price per 1,000 feet in Los Angeles is $32.50 for unfinished, and $42.50 for finished lumber.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>98</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 13</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>LAND VALUES</p><P>OBVIOUSLY the price of land varies according to soil and location. Lands fall into four main divisions.  First-class land is taxed at a valuation of $.25 to $4 an acre and includes pasture land, marshes, alkali lands, mountains, rocky land, and river-beds.  The average price of inferior pasture-land is $2.75 an acre.  The second class assessed at $5.88 an acre, covers medium lands such as good grain and farm lands. When land is near the city such lands have a value of $25 to $100.  In the fourth class, which is estimated to $25 TO $50, are vineyard and orchard lands that have water.  The best clayey soil is usually valued at $30 to $40 an acre; land suitable for raising semi-tropical fruits is sold, generally, at $40 to $60 an acre.  Good vineyard land brings $15 to $50; select fruit land, $75 to $200; olive lands, at $100 to $150. The richest lands in and near the city naturally bring much higher figures.</p><P>Upon arriving in this country the prices of land seem, to the inexperienced, to be inflated.  But in California, although land may be had at any figure, of what value is dry mesa land where only one harvest of winter grain can be grown and which stands idle throughout the entire summer?  Naturally an acre of land with 50 full-bearing orange trees that bring in returns of $1,000, or a fertile piece of well-watered land that will bear crops worth from $100 to $300 annnually will command a fair price.  The purchaser must also keep in mind the fact that production out here is approximately twice what it is in the Eastern States.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>99</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 14</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>BEE AND SILK CULTURE</p><P>IN Los Angeles County the raising of bees is an important industry. Fifteen years ago the first swarm of Italian bees was imported into the country and the local conditions proving especially favorable, they soon multiplied rapidly.  In fact the white sage blossom that grows so luxuriantly on the plains and mountains afforded so pure and white a honey that it soon came to be greatly in demand.  Its extraordinary clearness and rich flavor similar to that the Hymethis honey, moreover, gave it a leading place in the markets.  Since the bees out in this country work actively for 9 or 10 months large amounts of honey are collected.</p><P>In 1874 there were as many as 22,000 beehives in the state; of these, 7,000 were in Los Angeles and San Diego Counties.  By 1875, Los Angeles alone had 4,570 hives and the yearly increase is now estimated at 150 per cent.  If the yield from each hive is computed at 150 pounds--which is a modest estimate since hives often produce 200 pounds--with 5,000 hives the yield would amount to 750,000 pounds of honey.  At a price of $.08 (in San Francisco in 1876 the price for comb-honey was $.25 a pound, and for strained honey $.09 to $.12) this would give Los Angeles County a yearly income of $592,000.</p><P>Both slopes of the Sierras afford excellent food for bees since they are rankly overgrown with white sage, while the mountain range near Santa Monica is one of the best honey-districts, both as to quality and quanity, in the state.  Bees in Los Angeles County have three deadly enemies: the wax-moth, the bee-bird, and the lizard.  The two latter catch the bees on the flowers; the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>101</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:former go into the hives and destroy them, if not promptly discovered and eradicated.</p><P>Wild bees are hunted by placing on the ground out in the fields, a piece of burning wax, and nearby, some honey.  The bees lured by the smell come and alight on the honey.  Upon being satiated they fly toward their hive.  The hunter, who is waiting for the bees to swarm to the hive, then catches some, puts them in a pasteboard box, and follows the direction of their flight.  If he believes he has missed the hive he liberates a bee; if she flies forward, the hive is ahead; if she flies back, he knows he has missed the hive and must retrace his steps.  This is repeated as often as necessary, and several hours frequently pass before the next is located and the hunter brings the honey and swarm in triumph to his own hive.  As proof of the keen interest in bee-culture a Bee-keepers' Association has already been formed by 40 of the most enterprising bee-growers in the county with meetings every other month.</p><P>Los Angeles County with its equable climate is also adapted to the silk industry, particularly since mulberry trees flourish readily.  Most attempts, however, which have been made were done hastily and without proper knowledge of how to plant out mulberry trees.  This was brought about by the offering of a state prize in 1867 for all mulberry trees planted and for the largest number of cocoons in proportion to the number of trees.<ANCHOR ID="n14-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: No restrictions, however, were placed on the quality and many people believed they could plant trees as thickly as in a nursery and that they would receive the same rewards for poor cocoons.  Many trees, too, were set out in damp soil, for this reason the caterpillars feeding on them did not flourish.  In 1870, the mania for premiums came to an end, and it is highly probable that much cocoon raising will prove a failure.  As a matter of fact, however, there is already in Los Angeles a very large colony of men interested in growing cocoons.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n14-1">The silk industry, in 1864, was offered by the State Legislature, a bounty of $250 for every 5,000 two-year-old mulberry trees.</NOTE>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 15</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>CATTLE-RAISING</p><P>CATTLE-RAISING has long occupied an important place in the development of Los Angeles County and although not so extensively pursued as during the Mexican re&acute;gime (it no longer pays to retain intact great stretches of rich pasture-land), yet stock-raising still flourishes, several influential citizens being keenly interested in rearing fine stock.</p><P>The country out here is peculiarly adapted to this purpose since it has ample water and excellent grass both on the foothills of the Sierra and also in the valleys.  The young grass begins to sprout in December and lasts until June when it is cut for hay and grain.  Cattle are thus grass-fed until the first of June, given hay from June to October, and supplied with grain from October to December when the winter rains begin.</p><P>During the winter and spring months are found two plants that afford them considerable food; <HI REND="italics">alfilerilla (Erodium cicutarium</HI>
205.sgm: ), and bunch-grass.<ANCHOR ID="n15-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: The former which is the most abundant of all the native growing grasses grows thickly on the hills and plains, affording with its light greenish-yellow coloring a soft tone to the landscape. This is one of the richest foods for cattle.  In summer and autumn wild oats and burr-clover furnish excellent fodder.  The former, which the cattle eat when green, retains its nourishing seeds for a long period; the latter contains seed in a little spherical burr about a quarter of an inch in diameter which it bears in triple bunches.  Even after the meadows turn earth-brown in color, cattle and sheep can subsist on these seeds on land which to the inexperienced appears to be a desert.  Practically all <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>103</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:pasture-lands are devoid of weeds, and yet there are times when the cattle suffer from lack of fodder when, for instance, the grass has been blighted, or has lost its nourishing properties.  The first occurs when the grass, owing to light rains during the previous season, grows poorly; the second, when heavy rains fall for several days prior to the New Year followed by cold, dry weather.  In this instance the rain washes away the vital elements in the old grass whereas the cold, dry weather retards the young shoots, causing the cattle to go hungry.  In 1856, 70,000 cattle died of starvation--one-third of all the stock.  In 1863-1864 there were also heavy losses.  Formerly, if there was danger of food shortage, great herds of livestock were driven hundreds of miles over into Arizona.  Through the raising of alfalfa, however, these dangers have been largely obviated; in fact cattle-raising has been practically revolutionized to its material benefit.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-1"><HI REND="italics">Alfilerilla: alfileria</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Alfalfa as a fodder is unexcelled for producing milk.  An acre of alfalfa will feed 20 sheep at a cost of $3 a head, whereas on mesa land now utilized for sheep ranches, two or three acres are required to support a similar number at an outlay of from $4 to $6 a head.  The cow can live on a quarter of an acre; one acre will keep 15 hogs in good condition, although to fatten them for market a small amount of Indian corn is added. For farm-horses, alfalfa is also excellent fodder.  Not only is this highly advantageous as well as the fact that cattle can be fed throughout the year on green fodder, but also the fact that maize and other grain can be cut monthly for feed.  Moreover, owing to the dryness of the climate hay can be stacked up in the open field, thus eliminating the need for expensive barns--another boon to cattle-growers.  Then, too, the mammoth beets and turnips grown are suitable for feeding cattle, being especially fine for steers.  One-fourth of an acre planted twice a year to beets will keep 2 cows for one year, a fact previously mentioned in discussing beet-growing.  Work-horses are fed barley and hay.  Owing to these favorable conditions, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>104</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:however, cattle in California grow more rapidly, become fatter, and give a particularly excellent quality of beef and mutton superior to that of other cattle.</p><P>Among the many kinds of live-stock raised extensively in Los Angeles County are sheep.  Considerable attention is given their breeding and many fine herds have been raised by prominent <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
205.sgm:. Undoubtedly, this country is admirably suited to sheep-raising.  A two-year-old sheep out here is as large and fat as a three-year-old in the eastern states and gives more wool.  Before they are a year old they already bear young.  Scab is prevalent in a mild form.  In the early days, the herds multiplied rapidly; in 1867, there were 148,700; in 1870 the tax-assessor reported that there were 482,372 sheep in the county.  This ratio of increase, however, was not constant; in 1875, the herds numbered only 484,682.  Of late, owing to the encroachment of agriculture which has driven out many herds of sheep into other counties, a decrease has been noticeable.  Notwithstanding, sheep are profitable sources of income. Estimating them roughly, in the year 1874 at half a million would give four million pounds of wool--20% being taken off at an average clip.  In 1876, the wool clip amounted only to three million pounds.</p><P>In Los Angeles County sheep during the daytime are pastured out in the open, guarded by herders.  On large ranches, a shepherd herds 1,000 sheep.  Herders in California are usually Indians, Californians, Chinamen, or Scotchmen; of these, the latter make the best herders.  At night the sheep are shut up in corrals to protect them from attacks by beasts of prey who are afraid to come over low fences.  Enemies of sheep are the puma, wild-cat, fox, and coyote.  The latter are readily poisoned by meat, saturated with strychnine.  The former are hunted when they prove too troublesome.  In mountain regions the shepherd often sleeps at the entrance of the corral on a platform called a <HI REND="italics">tempestra</HI>
205.sgm: raised about 12 feet off the ground on thick posts rammed into the earth as a protection from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>105</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:grizzly bears who cannot climb.  Animals brought from Australia and Scotland are used for shepherd dogs.  They are very intelligent and understand the word corral so well that they can drive an entire herd inside with remarkable skill.  Stockmen prefer the French and Spanish merinos, and, while the herds may not multiply rapidly, yet the quality of the wool is superior.</p><P>One of the most successful sheep-ranches in the county is that of J. Bixby &amp; Co., Cerritos, containing about 25,000 acres and 10 artesian wells.<ANCHOR ID="n15-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Bixby has been in business seventeen years or so, and has 30,000 sheep, 25,000 of them belonging to the company.  They are all Spanish merinos and give about 10 pounds of wool a year, sheep being sheared are Californians, and receive $.05 a fleece.  One man can shear 40 or 50 sheep a day and as each fleece is thrown down on a counter the shearer is given a check worth $.05.  Once a week all these checks are paid in cash.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-2">Jotham Bixby purchased Los Cerritos Rancho in 1866 for $.80 an acre and made it one of the great sheep-ranches of the state.  Prior to his ownership it had belonged to Don Juan Temple who built the picturesque old adobe that is still standing on Cerritos Hill, near the Virginia Country club.  In Juan Temple's day Cerritos ran 15,000 cattle, 7,000 sheep, and 3,000 horses.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>After shearing, sheep are dipped as a preventative of scab.  This is accomplished by submerging them in a dip of tobacco and sulphur.  Mr. Bixby, however, expects to secure the same results through the use of steam.  After being dipped in the reservoir, the sheep come up a plank runway out into the open, and are kept for the next six months in pasture.</p><P>Goats are comparatively few in number; several cashmeres, however, have been recently imported.</p><P>Steers are also fewer than under the Mexican re&acute;gime--although, in 1875, they amounted to 16,408.  Many of them, however, have been shipped out to regions where grass is especially abundant.  Even if the numbers have diminished yet the breeds have improved materially and a fine foreign strain has become established.  English, Spanish, and American stock has gradually been replaced by others, Durhams, Ayrshires, and Guernseys being especially popular.  The former run wild over the ranges and do not require special fodder.  With the introduction of new breeds there has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>106</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:been a decided increase in the output of butter and cheese.  This an industry fostered by the Americans, but largely neglected by the early Californians whose so-called Spanish cattle were brought in in 1770 from Mexico by the Spanish missionaries.  At what period these cattle were introduced into Mexico is unknown, but it must have been shortly after its conquest by Corte&acute;s.  In type they are a small, well-formed breed with long, thin feet, large, wide horns, and a wild appearance; they do not fatten readily, nor do the cows give much milk.  On the other hand, they calve early, usually before two years old, and at times even at fourteen months.</p><P>During the era of Spanish colonization and Mexican rule--as already observed--cattle-raising was one of the chief occupations of Californians. Cattle were slaughtered solely for their hides and tallow; meat being discarded since there was an over-supply in comparison with the needs of the scanty population.  No <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
205.sgm: had less than one-quarter of a square league (4,438 acres) and the government gave, without compensation, from one to eleven leagues to anyone who was willing to build a home and stock the land with 100 head of cattle.  For a man to possess 5,000 cattle was not unusual.  Cattle roamed at random, cows being kept for breeding.  Steers, on the other hand, were killed when three or four years old.  Calves were usually born early in the year and by March the first rodeo was held to brand young calves.  There were, and still are, what are called general and special rodeos.  The general rodeo is held under the auspices of all cattle-growers in the immediate vicinity; a special rodeo is held by a private individual who wishes to check over the cattle on his own ranch.  A rodeo may thus serve for one ranch or for several; every large ranch, however, holds its own rodeo, usually once in the spring and once in the fall, being required by law to hold at least one a year.  When a general rodeo is to be held invitations are sent out weeks in advance to all the neighbors.  The <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
205.sgm: drive the cattle to the appointed place, which usually remains unchanged from year to year--and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>107</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:cattle accustomed to the proceeding, frequently run in by themselves.  Visiting <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
205.sgm: who come from the greatest distance are usually allowed to select their cattle and drive them away first.  Frequently these rodeos last several days.  Rodeos, as a general thing, are held in rotation, usually starting from the south and working north.  The <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
205.sgm: attend each rodeo in succession where they believe they may find some of their cattle.  Often there are from 12 to 20 of these round-ups, each attended by 10 or 15 <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
205.sgm: and friends, making a small army.  Cattle are recognized by the brand, while calves follow the mothers.  The spring rodeos are in reality jolly, pleasant parties where each <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
205.sgm: displays his skill in riding and lasso-throwing, which requires extraordinary knowledge of cattle.  In times past every one attended these festivals in gala attire.  Contests were often held, a favorite sport at rodeos being an exhibition where the rider approaches a cow or a steer and, catching the animal's tail, holds it between his foot and the saddle and rides parallel to the creature. When the horse runs too fast the rider is thrown off head-first.</p><P>The lasso, usually the <HI REND="italics">riata</HI>
205.sgm:, is a leather rope some five-eighths of an inch in diameter, and 30 yards long, made of 4 strips of braided cow-hide, which has been stripped of hair and smeared with fat. It is usually thrown a distance of 15 to 20 feet.  There are some <HI REND="italics">vaqueros</HI>
205.sgm:, however, who can lasso a cow 30 feet away.</p><P>When a <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
205.sgm: returns from the rodeo he brings his herd into a corral, usually an enclosed are from 30 to 50 yards square surrounded by a staunch fence, where the calves are branded.  If too many have been brought back from the neighboring ranches to brand in one day they are herded until the work is completed.  When marked the cow is set free; usually she returns to the ranch to which she has grown accustomed. This is of no importance to the <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
205.sgm:, provided she does not wander to ranches whose rodeos he did not attend.  Only when serious grass famines occur do the <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
205.sgm: drive strange cattle off their ranches.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>108</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>After the rodeos are over the cattle on each private ranch are next branded.  Every morning about 200 cows with their calves are driven into a corral.  There, while one <HI REND="italics">vaquero</HI>
205.sgm: holds the cow by the head and another by both feet with a lasso, the brand is burned on the flank. The law requires the branding of all horses and cattle and a copy of the brand, burned on leather, has to be deposited in the county recorder's office.<ANCHOR ID="n15-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: All cattle and horses 18 months old must be branded, delinquency being classed as a felony.  The brand on the hip denotes ownership, but if the owner plans to sell his cattle, they are branded on the shoulder.  This denotes sale.  The buyer then brands the cattle on the flank.  Thus the hide of a Californian horse or cow records the history of his past ownership.  Every servant who has animals of his own must also use the brand of his master.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n15-3">For an interesting account of old brands used in Los Angeles County see August, 1928, number of <HI REND="italics">Touring Topics</HI>
205.sgm:<P>In autumn rodeos are held usually to mark calves that were overlooked in the spring or were too young for branding.  Some <HI REND="italics">rancheros</HI>
205.sgm: also use another mark, such as a slitting of the ears, or a notch on the dewlap.  Of this, a drawing must also be deposited at the office.  It is illegal to clip or cut the ears in any way for such an act would eradicate marks inserted by owners.  In 1875, there were 11,707 horses owned by Californians.  Years ago horse were numerous, having been brought over from Spain to Mexico in the Sixteenth Century and from there into California about sixty years ago.  This breed is a small, rugged animal, often mouse-colored, dull brown, and wiry, but quick, sturdy, and quite suitable for the <HI REND="italics">ranchero</HI>
205.sgm:; however, they are unfitted for hard labor.  As riding horses they were unexcelled in early California, being able to carry a rider one hundred miles in a day and feeding exclusively on grass.  To ride sixty miles a day was not considered extraordinary. Formerly, in the days of the great ranchos, they were banded in <HI REND="italics">manadas</HI>
205.sgm:, or herds, under one stallion.  Mares foaled as a rule before they were three years old; the colts were then put into the <HI REND="italics">caballado</HI>
205.sgm:, quarters for training horses.  When three or four months <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>109</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:old the colts were branded.  The early Californians never trained their mares and considered it beneath their dignity to ride one.  Today, in Los Angeles may be seen in place of the half-wild bronchos, handsome American and foreign-bred horses.  In this respect Los Angeles County is second to none and will probably within a short time rival the famous blue-grass region of Kentucky.  Trotters, especially large, beautiful animals imported from the eastern states, are in great demand.</p><P>Mules are few in number; they are not favored by Americans who consider them ulgy.  Of late, some fine mules have been bred from the donkey stock of Kentucky.</p><P>The raising of hogs is especially worthy of note.  In 1875, there were 6040 hogs in Los Angeles County, most of them of such excellent stock as the bristle-hog which has increased steadily within recent years. This, indeed, is due to the fact that they are raised on alfalfa and maize.  Acorns, too, are frequently used for fodder.</p><P>Comparatively few dogs, with the single exception of shepherd dogs, are seen in Los Angeles, although the small rat-terriers so often encountered in America are fairly common.</p><P>Poultry-raising, up to the present, has never attained significant proportions, although it is on the increase.  Poultry in the Los Angeles markets sells usually for $5 to $7 a dozen; eggs bring $.50 a dozen.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>110</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 16</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>HUNTING AND FISHING</p><P>HUNTING around the Los Angeles is excellent; especially along the coast and the marshy lands are found ducks and geese by the millions. They are, however, very shy, since hunters are numerous.  California quail, cotton-tails (a species of jack-rabbit), and every kind of small game are to be found along the mountain ranges and the foothills east and north of the city where they seek shelter in the thick underbrush that covers much of the country.  The San Fernado, San Gabriel, San Jose&acute;, and Cucamonga Valleys are particularly famous for their hunting.  For big game it is necessary to go high up into the San Fernando, Soledad, or Fort Tejon country, where deer, antelope, mountain sheep, and cinnamon bear are common.  While strenuous hunting, it is fine sport.  Frequently in Los Angeles large parties are arranged for the hunt, many sportsmen going into the mountains two or three times a year.</p><P>If the extermination of the small mordants that destroy crops may be termed hunting--and that is what it actually is--ground-squirrels, it should be said, are hunted mainly by poison, especially strychnine and phosphorus.  The former is placed on wheat; the latter on wheat and flour. Another method used is to dip a rag in kerosene, sprinkle it with sulphur, light it, and put it in the hole, at the same time stopping the mouth and any other exits from which smoke might escape.  A bellows has also been invented with a container for burning sulphur which is used to pump poisonous smoke into the hole.  Gophers can also be killed with phosphorus and strychnine; however, they are more readily caught in traps than spermophiles.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>111</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>Deep-sea fishing affords rich booty from whales down to oysters. This sport, moreover, is still in its infancy.  Most fishing is done off the wharfs at Wilmington and Santa Monica where fish weighing five and six pounds are caught.  Frequently sharks and porpoises are harpooned. Fishes in large numbers are caught in nets for the Los Angeles markets. In the mountain streams further inland fine brook-trout and salmon-trout are also caught.  The latter are usually taken with what are called gill-nets.  These have meshes barely large enough for the trout's head to pass through, which catch him behind his gills.  The net does not touch bottom since the fish swim fairly near the surface, but is stretched diagonally across the stream or a section of it and floats with the current for several hundred yards or even half a mile while the fishermen follow behind in a boat.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>112</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 17</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>MINING</p><P>DESPITE the fact that gold was first found in Los Angeles County, it is of considerably less importance as a mining center than for its agricultural activities, which were neglected for a considerable period in favor of cattle-raising.</p><P>The story of the discovery of gold is as follows: it was first found in 1833 by natives in the gravel and sand on the hills near the northern boundary of the country.<ANCHOR ID="n17-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Dr. Abel Stearns, who had come out from Boston in 1829, assayed the gold and sent it to the mint in Philadelphia, receiving in return gold coins.  This was fifteen years prior to the great gold strike.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-1">Bancroft in his <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Calif</HI>
205.sgm:<P>In 1854, gold was discovered in sand and gravel beds by Captain Hannager and a party of prospectors from Los Angeles in San Gabriel Canyon, about 18 miles from Los Angeles.<ANCHOR ID="n17-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In 1855, these claims--a claim by the way, means mountain mining land staked out by individuals or companies--were worked by several men.  Soon after, however, they were abandoned.  In 1871, Dr. Winston and Mr. Anderen introduced the hydraulic system of mining, bringing flumes 5 miles to the entrance of the canyon.  Mining, at the present writing, has been pursued with profit.  Until recent years, however, owing to the great agricultural wealth of the county, gold-mining has of late been comparatively neglected.  Indicative of its importance, notwithstanding, is the fact that, during the past 18 months, Messrs.  Ducommon and Jones, Los Angeles merchants, have purchased more than $8,000,000 worth of gold-dust from the placers of the San Gabriel River, while probably twice this amount has been bought by other dealers and merchants in <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>113</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:San Francisco.  The fact that one-twentieth of all gold extracted is usually lost in washing must, moreover, be taken into consideration.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-2">Gold was discovered in 1853-1854 in the foothills of the Santa Anita Rancho and San Gabriel Canyon, over $2,000,000 being extracted.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Approximately 3 miles from the mouth of the San Gabriel and 24 miles from Los Angeles are the Zapata mines carrying rich silver-bearing veins. These mines, which belong to Dr. Winston and his associates, have good indications.  Work on them, however, has been interrupted owing to slides. In 1861, copper was discovered in Soledad Canyon at the source of the Santa Clara River and shortly after $300,000 was expended for its exploitation.  This ore runs from 85 to 90 per cent.  Unfortunately, since it was found primarily in pockets, the workings failed to pay since ore was not present in large quantities.  On a sandy hill a few miles northwest from the abandoned tunnel, gold-bearing quartz was found in 1862, but not in commerical amounts.  Traces of alum, cinnabar, lead, gold, and silver are to be also found in many parts of this country. Cinnabar deposits have, moreover, been located in the chalky cliffs along the coast.  Mercury, too, is present in several parts of the county, while extensive tin deposits of great wealth have been discovered, especially in the southern and eastern ranges.  Capital for their exploitation has not, however, been forthcoming.  Large deposits of coal, unfortunately, have not been located, despite constant searches.  A good grade of marble in paying quantites has been located at Anaheim and San Fernando.  Gypsum deposits, believed to be 30 miles in extent, are reputed to exist in the mountains; these, however, have not yet been carefully inspected.</p><P>The greatest mineral wealth of Los Angeles promises to be petroleum. The Pennsylvania oil-fields being already on the decline, a new field promises to open up out on this coast.  About half a mile from the shore, in the general vicinity of Ventura and Santa Barbara, the ocean is covered with a thin film of oil about 10 miles in length and stretching far out to sea.  This, which is ascribed to submarine oil-wells, is highly significant, as is the steady seepage <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>114</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:from hidden oil-sands near the shore which discharges into the ocean.<ANCHOR ID="n17-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: The oil region in the Ventura district stretches westward from Ventura and, paralleling the coast, reaches the ocean at Ortega Hill, finally striking off in an easterly direction to Santa Paula Creek, forming the oil-lands of the Sespe Mountains and the San Fernando Range.  By so doing it embraces three counties, Santa Barbara, San Buenaventura, and Los Angeles, and extends for 100 miles.  The San Fernando oil-fields, however, are alone of importance in this narrative as falling within Los Angeles County.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-3">This seepage is still evident although the miniature oil-wells emerging from the ocean at Summerland, between Ventura and Santa Barbara, have tapped this subterranean oil-field.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The district of San Fernando lies in the northwest corner of Los Angeles County.  On the north it borders San Francisquito; on the west, the Sierra of Santa Susanna; on the south, Rancho Simi; and, on the east, Mission San Fernando.  It also adjoins the foothills on the northeast slope of the San Gabriel Mountains where, toward the north, stretches the Santa Clara Valley.</p><P>In a lone spur of the San Fernando Range about 35 miles from Los Angeles, oil was discovered in February, 1865, by Mexicans who, while out hunting bear, became thirsty and began to search for water.  Finding a brook that emitted a strange odor of petroleum, they struck a match which immediately ignited.  Cognizant of the importance of their discovery one remained on the ground to establish possession while his partner hurried off to Los Angeles to inform some of the most influential citizens--among them General Andre&acute;s Pico, Dr. Vincent Gelcich, Colonel Baker, and Messrs. Wiley, Leaming, Stevenson, Rice, Todd, Lyon, and Andere--of this discovery.  These men decided to go out and stake claims measuring 1500x600 feet apiece in conformity with the mining laws, and instruct the discoverers how to protect their claims.</p><P>The first claim was named Can&tilde;ada Pico (General Pico's holding, later owned by the Star Oil Working Company), the second was called Wiley, the third Moore, the fourth Rice (this is now owned by Dr. Gelcich), the fifth after a man called Leaming, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>115</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:sixth for Gelcich, and the seventh for Todd.  Toward the close of 1865 the district was incorporated and several companies formed.  In 1867 Macpherson and Scott of the Pennsylvania Company of Philadelphia vainly sought to acquire possession. Dr. Gelcich had, however, realized the importance of these holdings and had drilled a well on the adjacent high ground.  In 1873-1874, Dr. Gelcich purchased all claims in Rice Canyon from the owners, paying considerable amounts.  Recently squatters have come in, but through the efforts of Mrs. Gelcich, a member of the Pico family, the wells were released despite her husband's absence.<ANCHOR ID="n17-4">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n17-4">Dr. Vincent Gelcich was a pioneer surgeon of Los Angeles.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The main shale body can now be traced, and reveals a stratum 400-500 feet wide running northwest and southeast for about 6 miles near sandstone deposits 32&deg; southwest.  The crude oil has a gravity of 40&deg; Baume. None of the wells yields paraffin.</p><P>In 1874, Dr. Gelcich started a refinery that will soon produce 300 barrels a day.  The crude is 80 per cent pure oil.  Even with a refinery capable of handling 1500 barrels a day, the capacity would be inadequate to handle the total daily production of the wells.  In the beginning, the problem of transportation proved difficult; now, however, the railway is only 6 miles away and at the A ndrews Station, two hours out of Los Angeles, wooden tanks have been erected for storing oil.  Futhermore, the Star Oil Working Company has established a refinery which is running at full capacity.  Of crude oil, 60 per cent goes into an illuminating oil of high gravity with 120&deg;-130&deg; fire test, 25 per cent is extracted as a lubricating oil; the balance is fuel.</p><P>Closely associated with these oil-wells are the numerous valuable asphalt deposits which are found throughout the county.  Oil, as a matter of fact, flows out from strata of slate and sandstone; where the shale is penetrated flowing oil emerges; where, however, the upper strata are formed of rock, the oil is found in the form of tar, that is, oil that has been transformed into asphalt through oxidation.  This, as it seeps out, resembles a black, tar-like <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>116</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:fluid which hardens upon striking air.  In cool weather it becomes extremely hard; at 75&deg; it becomes soft; at 85&deg; it becomes liquid.  The principal deposits and springs are in the La Brea Canyon, Los Nietos, the Santa Susanna Mountains, the San Pedro Hills, San Juan Capistrano and the plains near Cahuenga Pass, lying about 7 miles in from the ocean and a similar distance from Los Angeles.  The latter are very large, rich deposits that extend out over a considerable area.  Major Hancock's asphalt works, that prepare from 2 to 3 tons daily for the markets, are located nearby.  Here the raw asphalt is boiled in huge kettles for twelve hours over a hot fire. The sediment thus having been precipitated to the bottom, the slack is then removed.  The asphalt is next poured into forms made of sand where it is shaped.  Of the total, one-third is slack and sediment, especially the latter which is saved and utilized in its entirety for food.</p><P>This asphalt is largely used for roofs and sidewalks.  For the former purpose it is in common use on many of the Californian houses in Los Angeles.  It is also in demand for the manufacturing of glass.</p><P>In conclusion, extraction of salt from salt-deposits, which is conducted on an extensive scale by Mr. Trudell about 13 miles from Los Angeles, is worthy of mention.</p><P>In the course of time more mineral wealth will undoubtedly be discovered.  In the adjacent counties many mines have been prospected while the inauguration of rail connection with Arizona will prove an inestimable boon to Los Angeles as a mining center.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>117</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 18</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>INDUSTRIES</p><P>EVEN if industrial activities in Los Angeles are somewhat behind those of other states in the Union, yet daily progress is being made in this direction.  Water-power is proving an invaluable aid; two excellent flour-mills which are doing a good business have already been established, as well as several saw-mills, planing-mills, woolen-spinning mills and an ice-plant.  Wagons and carriages of good quality are also being produced, as are goldsmith's wares of excellent quality.  There are as well several shoemakers, quite a number of good tailors, an iron-foundry for making columns and other miscellaneous equipment used in building houses, and a stove-manufacturi ng plant.  Tile of excellent quality is made extensively and sells for $8 a thousand.  In 1875, an Eastern firm, known as Titus, established a plant for manufacturing artificial stone.  In its manufacture Portland cement is mixed with pure white sand--Los Angeles has an ample supply of a high-grade sand--which thus becomes as hard as stone in a few days.  It is extremely durable.  Up to the present time only six-inch water pipes have been made.  These, which sell at $.25 a foot, are a boon to the farmer in handling irrigation, since they effect a great economy of water.  Conduit-pipe and drain-pipe, as well as ornamental objects, are also made by the Los Angeles Terra Metal Pipe Company.  Out in the San Fernando Valley there has been discovered an extensive deposit of porcelain-earth where a factory will soon be established.</p><P>The principal industry of Los Angeles, however, as has already been indicated, is the production of wine and brandy.  The manufacture of olive-oil and mustard is likewise of considerable <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>119</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:importance. In Los Angeles County there are 45 distilleries, 3 breweries, 2 cigar-factories, 283 retail liquor dealers, and 247 retail tobacco establishments.</p><P>Ship-building, in the course of time, also promises to become of importance industrially along the coast.  Indicative of this is the fact that, in 1876, 49 ships were built on the Pacific coast in California.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>120</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 19</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>TRADE</p><P>IN Los Angeles County business consists largely of the sale of domestic products to the San Francisco Markets, and the supplying of miscellaneous wares, agricultural implements, and building material, to the back-country.  Mining is still is in its infancy.  However, this will receive a great impetus when Arizona is opened up, and the mines in the desert basin north and east of the Sierra Madre have rail connection and are highly developed, for all these regions will prove heavy consumers. Meat, grain, hay, vegetables, butter, and cheese all will be purchased in Los Angeles--the nearest point--and from semi-tropical California in general.  Upon considering the needs of the great numbers of miners, the commercial future of the coastal country can be readily imagined.</p><P>There are already four banks in Los Angeles and yet there is room enough for several more.  In this new country money is greatly in demand and interest rates are high.  The leading bank, the Farmers and Merchants Bank, is capitalized at $500,000; its stock is held almost exclusively by several of the richest citizens.<ANCHOR ID="n19-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: It pays monthly dividends of $5.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-1">The Farmers and Merchants Bank was opened in April, 1871; in 1874, it moved to the west side of Main Street opposite the Bella Union Hotel.  After 1883, it was located at the corner of Commercial and Main Streets.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The Temple and Workman Bank which was organized in 1871 has the confidence of the public at large.<ANCHOR ID="n19-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-2">The Temple and Workman Bank opened November 23, 1871, and closed in 1875.  It was located at Spring and Main Streets.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The Commercial Bank which was established on December 1, 1871, is capitalized at $300,000.<ANCHOR ID="n19-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-3">The Commercial Bank later the First National, opened in January, 1875, and was located on Main Street between Commercial and Requena.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles County Bank is the only institution that is primarily a Savings Bank.<ANCHOR ID="n19-4">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: It has a capital of $300,000 and pays a semi-annual dividend of 5 per cent.  The bank makes commercial loans, conducts a savings bank business, and buys exchange on <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>121</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:London, Paris, Berlin, and Frankfort.  The average interest rate charged for gold loans secured by firm collateral is 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 per cent a month, with extra brokerage charges of 1 to 2 per cent.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n19-4">The Los Angeles County Bank was started in July, 1874, its first quarters being a room adjoining the Bella Union Hotel on Main Street near Commercial.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>To give an accurate picture of the present-day trade activities, there is given below a table showing the freight hauled by the Los Angeles and San Pedro Railway from January 1 to December 31, 1873, complied by Truman.</p><P>Assorted Wares<HSEP>2586 packages<HSEP>246,500 pounds</p><P>Wine and Brandies<HSEP>303,670 gallons<HSEP>3,036,700 pounds Wool<HSEP>10,488 bales<HSEP>3,626,389 pounds</p><P>Bullion<HSEP>58,056 bars<HSEP>4,826,741 pounds</p><P>Fruit<HSEP>14,342 boxes<HSEP>1,003,940 pounds</p><P>Ore<HSEP>2,129 sacks<HSEP>212,050 pounds</p><P>Hides<HSEP>437 bales<HSEP>65,550 pounds</p><P>Rawhides<HSEP>4,664 bales<HSEP>260,361 pounds</p><P>Dressed hides<HSEP>5,574 bales<HSEP>94,758 pounds</p><P>Maize<HSEP>46,400 sacks<HSEP>5,527,768 pounds</p><P>Maize and Rye<HSEP>8,888 sacks<HSEP>1,055,360 pounds</p><P>Oats<HSEP>34 sacks<HSEP>2,511 pounds</p><P>Beans<HSEP>4,926 sacks<HSEP>383,367 pounds</p><P>Rye<HSEP>2,579 sacks<HSEP>286,420 pounds</p><P>Corn<HSEP>245 sacks<HSEP>30,590 pounds</p><P>Wheat<HSEP>5,308 sacks<HSEP>653,317 pounds</p><P>Pop-corn<HSEP>240 sacks<HSEP>29,092 pounds</p><P>Borax<HSEP>433 sacks<HSEP>47,505 pounds</p><P>Nuts<HSEP>1,141 sacks<HSEP>82,594 pounds</p><P>Hay<HSEP>787 bales<HSEP>175,400 pounds</p><P>Hops<HSEP>96 bales<HSEP>18,692 pounds</p><P>Eggs<HSEP>467 boxes<HSEP>35,180 pounds</p><P>Honey<HSEP>1,625 crates<HSEP>199,680 pounds</p><P>Bees-wax<HSEP>58 boxes<HSEP>2,094 pounds</p><P>Asphalt<HSEP><HSEP>356,934 pounds</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>122</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>Oil<HSEP>97 barrels<HSEP>38,800 pounds</p><P>Empty casks and bags<HSEP>44<HSEP>2,640 pounds</p><P>Dried fruit<HSEP>475 boxes<HSEP>29,545 pounds</p><P>Tallow<HSEP>192 boxes<HSEP>36,037 pounds</p><P>Trees and shoots<HSEP>72 crates<HSEP>7,200 pounds</p><P>Sharks' fins and abalone<HSEP>442 boxes<HSEP>70,691 pounds Vehicles<HSEP>7<HSEP>10,500 pounds</p><P>Horses<HSEP>11<HSEP>11,000 pounds</p><P>Hogs<HSEP>1,194<HSEP>268,650 pounds</p><P>Sheep<HSEP>17<HSEP>1,700 pounds</p><P>Express-Freight<HSEP><HSEP>132,000 pounds</p><P>Total<HSEP>24,479,045 pounds</p><P>The following tables from the <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
205.sgm: disclose the imports and exports for 11 months in 1875 carried over the Southern Pacific Railway, indicating the total trade between Wilmington and the back-country, with the exception of what large amounts went via Santa Monica and Newport on MacFadden's Steamer and by barge to Anaheim. While this table indicates that exports are noticeably lighter than imports, it should be recalled that, in the first place, a considerable amount of agricultural products was sent by freight into the interior to the mines and that also, in a country like this which is developing rapidly, the importation of building materials, machines, and agricultural implements naturally predominates.  Indicative of this development is the enormous amount of lumber imported.</p><P>In that particular year, the total amount of building-material received was 13,338,180 feet; laths, 3,324,280; shingles, 5,602,168; cross-beams, 734,400; fence-posts, 29,300; and pikes, 20,000 feet. Importation of assorted wares amounted to 39,269,651 pounds.  Total exportation totalled 43,756 tons.  Exportation, including what was handled by ship totalled 12,891 tons, or 2,478,923 pounds of miscellaneous wares; 3,124,539 pounds of wool (this was an <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>123</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:exceptionally poor year); 2,937,132 pounds of wine; 11,772,842 pounds of grain; 1,973,842 pounds of fruit; 424,639 pounds of hides; 176,514 pounds of honey; 41,991 pounds of livestock; 1,538,824 pounds of bullion; 435,250 pounds of ore; 73,507 pounds of potatoes; 19,492 pounds of hops; 536,055 feet of mill-products; and 81,148 pounds of borax.</p><P>LOS ANGELES, IMPORTS</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>29,476,504</p><P>Building materials, feet<HSEP>11,549,719</p><P>Laths, number<HSEP>3,142,980</p><P>Shingles, number<HSEP>4,904,418</p><P>Cross-beams, number<HSEP>633,650</p><P>Fence-posts, number<HSEP>21,381</p><P>Piles, number<HSEP>20,000</p><P>Ties, number<HSEP>110,520</p><P>Live-stock, pounds<HSEP>13,000</p><P>Total pounds imported<HSEP>71,650,111</p><P>LOS ANGELES, EXPORTS</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>1,566,829</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP> 1,128,825</p><P>Wine, pounds<HSEP>2,105,157</p><P>Grain, pounds<HSEP>1,433,511</p><P>Fruits, pounds<HSEP>1,601,460</p><P>Hides, pounds<HSEP>416,754</p><P>Honey, pounds<HSEP>77,683</p><P>Asphalt, pounds<HSEP>1,117,393</p><P>Bullion, pounds<HSEP>4,375</p><P>Ore, pounds<HSEP>137,389</p><P>Mill-products, pounds<HSEP>236,055</p><P>Total pounds of exports<HSEP>9,825,436</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>124</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>IMPORTS, WILMINGTON</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>1,196,971</p><P>Building materials, feet<HSEP>231,249</p><P>Shingles, number<HSEP>3,000</p><P>Cross-beams, number<HSEP>1,000</p><P>Fence-posts, number<HSEP>525</p><P>Live-stock, pounds<HSEP>3,120</p><P>Total pounds of imports<HSEP>7,423,901</p><P>EXPORTS, WILMINGTON</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>475,519</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>561,411</p><P>Grain, pounds<HSEP>238,987</p><P>Live-stock, pounds<HSEP>11,100</p><P>Total pounds of exports<HSEP>1,287,017</p><P>IMPORTS, COMPTON</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>112,131</p><P>Building materials, feet<HSEP>2,004</p><P>Fence-posts, number<HSEP>704</p><P>Live-stock, pounds<HSEP>2,000</p><P>Total imports in pounds<HSEP>140,935</p><P>EXPORTS, COMPTON</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>26,847</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>75,841</p><P>Grain, pounds<HSEP>1,393,071</p><P>Potatoes, pounds<HSEP>58,802</p><P>Total exports in pounds<HSEP>1,554,561</p><P>IMPORTS, DOWNEY</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>790,599</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>125</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>Building materials, feet<HSEP>1,306,957</p><P>Laths, number<HSEP>151,300</p><P>Shingles, number<HSEP>450,000</p><P>Cross-beams, number<HSEP>94,175</p><P>Fence-posts, number<HSEP>6,054</p><P>Total imports in pounds<HSEP>5,829,240</p><P>EXPORTS, DOWNEY</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>26,743</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>1,861</p><P>Grain, pounds<HSEP>6,645,781</p><P>Live-stock, pounds<HSEP>3,300</p><P>Castor-oil products, pounds<HSEP>56,743</p><P>Total pounds of exports<HSEP>6,743,428</p><P>IMPORTS, NORWALK</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>3,915</p><P>EXPORTS, NORWALK</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>16,550</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>95,810</p><P>Live-stock, pounds<HSEP>6,030</p><P>Total pounds of exports<HSEP>118,390</p><P>IMPORTS, ANAHEIM</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>1,037,107</p><P>EXPORTS, ANAHEIM</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>125,558</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>645,864</p><P>Wine, pounds<HSEP>212,066</p><P>Grain, pounds<HSEP>1,136,587</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>126</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>Honey, pounds<HSEP>10,630</p><P>Live-stock, pounds<HSEP>21,561</p><P>Asphalt, pounds<HSEP>4,660</p><P>Potatoes, pounds<HSEP>15,405</p><P>Castor-oil products, pounds<HSEP>56,660</p><P>Total exports in pounds<HSEP>2,228,991</p><P>IMPORTS, SAN FERNANDO</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>1,341,529</p><P>EXPORTS, SAN FERNANDO</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>12,330</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>2,125</p><P>Honey, pounds<HSEP>18,663</p><P>Bullion, pounds<HSEP>1,526,989</p><P>Borax, pounds<HSEP>81,148</p><P>Total value of exports in pounds<HSEP>1,641,255</p><P>IMPORTS, SAN GABRIEL</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>433,699</p><P>EXPORTS, SAN GABRIEL</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>33,170</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>1,832</p><P>Wine, pounds<HSEP>515,963</p><P>Grain, pounds<HSEP>252,457</p><P>Fruit, pounds<HSEP>372,390</p><P>Total exports in pounds<HSEP>1,175,812</p><P>IMPORTS, EL MONTE</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>265,472</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>127</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>106</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>EXPORTS, EL MONTE</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>22,601</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>13,593</p><P>Grain, pounds<HSEP>439,356</p><P>Honey, pounds<HSEP>22,933</p><P>Fruit, pounds<HSEP>12,747</p><P>Castor-oil, pounds<HSEP>12,507</p><P>Hops, pounds<HSEP>19,492</p><P>Total pounds of exports<HSEP>534,229</p><P>IMPORTS, SPADRA</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>3,140,189</p><P>Building materials, feet<HSEP>17,973</p><P>Shingles, number<HSEP>60,000</p><P>Fence-posts, number<HSEP>400</p><P>Live-stock, pounds<HSEP>40,000</p><P>Total pounds of imports<HSEP>3,262,079</p><P>EXPORTS, SPADRA</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>132,934</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>436,190</p><P>Wine, pounds<HSEP>11,436</p><P>Hides, pounds<HSEP>7,880</p><P>Honey, pounds<HSEP>31,137</p><P>Fruit, pounds<HSEP>241,572</p><P>Total pounds of exports<HSEP>861,149</p><P>IMPORTS, COLTON</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>1,471,465</p><P>Building material, feet<HSEP>282,215</p><P>Laths, number<HSEP>30,000</p><P>Shingles, number<HSEP>184,750</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>128</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>107</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>Cross-beams, number<HSEP>9,575</p><P>Grain, pounds<HSEP>27,375</p><P>Fence-posts, number<HSEP>265</p><P>Total pounds of imports<HSEP>2,125,895</p><P>EXPORTS, COLTON</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>39,642</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>150,392</p><P>Wine, pounds<HSEP>92,410</p><P>Honey, pounds<HSEP>15,468</p><P>Bullion, pounds<HSEP>7,460</p><P>Fruit, pounds<HSEP>43,602</p><P>Total pounds of exports<HSEP>348,974</p><P>OTHER STATIONS WHICH HAVE NO AGENTS</p><P>Assorted wares, pounds<HSEP>210</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>10,795</p><P>Grain, pounds<HSEP>53,102</p><P>Total pounds of exports<HSEP>64,107</p><P>The following are the exports and imports dispatched over the Southern Pacific Railway from January 1 to June 30, 1876, compiled by Dr. Gelcich.</p><P>IMPORTS</p><P>Building materials, feet<HSEP>8,641,880</p><P>Laths, number<HSEP>1,116,300</p><P>Shingles, number<HSEP>3,029,750</p><P>Cross-beams, number<HSEP>394,324</p><P>Fence-posts, number<HSEP>36,395</p><P>Coal, pounds<HSEP>1,139,860</p><P>Beef, fattened for market<HSEP>19,500</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>129</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>108</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>Beef, slaughtered<HSEP>16,624,392</p><P>Total imports in pounds<HSEP>53,171,131</p><P>Total imports in tons<HSEP>26,095 1/2</p><P>To this must be added the imports taken from the records of the Southern Pacific and other railroads, of wood, coal, and miscellaneous wares totalling 13,082 tons.</p><P>Below is given the total amount from January 1 to June 30, 1876, of 39,167 1/2 tons:</p><P>EXPORTS</p><P>Beans, pounds<HSEP>95,266</p><P>Zweiback, pounds<HSEP>3,972</p><P>Brandy, pounds<HSEP>93,900</p><P>Olive-oil, pounds<HSEP>156,493</p><P>Bullion, bars<HSEP>28,529</p><P>Fruit, pounds<HSEP>714,289</p><P>Honey, pounds<HSEP>199,004</p><P>Hides, pounds<HSEP>276,137</p><P>Hops, pounds<HSEP>7,662</p><P>Grain, pounds<HSEP>9,355,226</p><P>Hay, pounds<HSEP>40,000</p><P>Miscellaneous products<HSEP>658,231</p><P>Slaughtered cattle, pounds<HSEP>362,250</p><P>Various wares, pounds<HSEP>520,081</p><P>Vegetables, pounds<HSEP>184,481</p><P>Wool, pounds<HSEP>3,382,832</p><P>Wine, pounds<HSEP>1,186,742</p><P>Total exports in pounds<HSEP>17,365,097</p><P>Total exports in tons<HSEP>8,682 1/2</p><P>Throughout California, gold is the medium of exchange.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>130</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>109</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 20</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>STEAMSHIP, RAILWAY, AND POSTAL SERVICE</p><P>SHIPPING is, and always will be, of vital importance to the commerce of Los Angeles.  Since the distance from San Pedro to San Francisco by sea is only 400 miles--by rail it is about 500--connection by water is an inestimable advantage.  From Santa Monica, the distance being only 360 miles, swift steamers can reach San Francisco almost as quickly as trains.</p><P>The entire trade along the Southern Californian coast is in the hands of the Goodall, Nelson &amp; Perkins Steamship Co.  This concern has a fleet of ten ships called the <HI REND="italics">Santa Cruz, Kalorama, Monterey, Senator, Orizaba, Mohongo, Ancon, Los Angeles</HI>
205.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Salinas</HI>
205.sgm:. A tenth has recently been purchased.  Five of them are side-wheelers; the others have screw propellers.  Sailings are made from San Francisco on alternate days.  The <HI REND="italics">Orizaba, Mohongo, Ancon, Senator</HI>
205.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
205.sgm: stop regularly at San Pedro and Los Angeles.  The <HI REND="italics">Ancon</HI>
205.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">Orizaba</HI>
205.sgm: run to San Diego.  The <HI REND="italics">Kalorama, Monterey</HI>
205.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Salinas</HI>
205.sgm: carry freight only.  They are all large and comfortable boats, built more like river than ocean steamers owing to the calm weather they encounter.  They are usually three-deckers with cabins and broad decks on each side.  Prices for transportation are extremely low.  From Wilmington to San Fran cisco the fare is only $10, whereas by rail it is $13.</p><P>Of late the Pacific Mail Steamship Line has begun to compete with this company, which put their prices down to so low a level that many travel by the Goodall Steamers up and down the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>131</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>110</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:Californian coast merely for a summer vacation.  The Pacific Mail Steamship Line now has a boat sailing for Panama once a month that puts in at San Diego, San Pedro, and Santa Monica on its way up the coast.  In addition to these ships there is a semi-monthly service between Newport and San Francisco via a small 300-ton steamer owned by Mr. MacFadden.</p><P>In Los Angeles County there are now 129 miles of railway.  The main branch of the Southern Pacific Railway runs for 25 miles north through the San Fernando Valley to where it meets the Sierra Nevada, then pierces the mountains through the Tehachapi Pass, and extends on toward San Francisco.  A branch line runs east 35 miles to Spadra.  The line running to Anaheim is 22 miles long; another branch swings east to the valley of the Santa Ana River.  The line to Wilmington and the coast is 21 miles in length.  The Los Angeles and Independence Railway and the Santa Monica line to Los Angeles are 16 miles in length and were completed in 1875.  With a terminal for trains at Santa Monica, it makes possible a close connection between rail and steamer.  At the present another project is on foot to build a new line across the great desert to Colorado by way of San Gabriel, the Puente Hills, and on east about 85 miles to San Gorgonio and the Cajon Pass.  This would tap the mining region of Independence in Lugo County, and connect it with the mines of Southern Utah.  Many advantages will be derived from this venture for, since the distance from Ogden to Los Angeles is 250 miles less than toward San Francisco, a portion of the trans-continental traffic would be diverted to Southern California.</p><P>Even now, however, the railroads are doing a good business. Indicative of their importance are the following figures of goods carried during 11 months from January 1 to December 1, 1875.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>132</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>111</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>IMPORTS<HSEP>EXPORTS</p><P>Los Angeles<HSEP>6,307,129 pounds<HSEP>2,654,619 pounds</p><P>Wilmington<HSEP>7,193,117 pounds<HSEP>9,631,892 pounds</p><P>Anaheim<HSEP>658,000 pounds<HSEP>548,808 pounds</p><P>San Fernando<HSEP>6,253,444 pounds<HSEP>188,583 pounds</p><P>Spadra<HSEP>12,294,160 pounds<HSEP>886,560 pounds</p><P>Colton<HSEP>10,792,580 pounds<HSEP>455,374 pounds</p><P>Downey<HSEP>136,766 pounds</p><P>El Monte<HSEP><HSEP>33,255 pounds</p><P>Other Stations<HSEP>219,592 pounds</p><P>Total pounds<HSEP>43,718,022<HSEP>14,525,857</p><P>Total tons<HSEP>26,859<HSEP>7,262</p><P>The total importation of lumber was 6,013,354 feet, an increase of 2,094,000 feet; of assorted wares, 15,712,082 pounds.  The greatest movement of wares, 6,786,040, was toward Spadra; San Fernando received 2,070,539 pounds, and Wilmington 2,123,448 pounds.</p><P>The road running to San Francisco is not only invaluable for shipping fruit, but is also of great importance for the public at large, because it means competition between sea and rail transportation. Several stage-lines cross the country in various directions.  Especially worthy of note is the fact that, since there is now rail connection with San Francisco, postal-service has ceased to Merced, the line passing along the ocean having connections with the various districts near San Francisco.</p><P>Movement of mails, as is natural in so highly developed a country, is increasing.  According to the records of Postmaster H. K. W. Bent the amount of mails passing through the Los Angeles post-office in 1875 was as follows: In 1875, there arrived and were dispatched daily, 23 bags of mail, and 7 sacks of newspapers.  Letters mailed weekly amounted to 10,500, while 250 pounds of news-papers were dispatched.  This made a total of 270 pounds weekly.  The receipts from the sale of postage-stamps was $15,428.  In the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>133</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>112</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:department of registered mail 3,061 letters arrived and 1,765 were sent.  The total number of money-orders sent was 4,631, amounting to $109,571.32.  The total number of money-orders cashed was 2,436, a total of $84,502,230.  Miscellaneous articles to the amount of $2,366 were also dispatched.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>134</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>113</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 21</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>HINTS TO SETTLERS</p><P>WHAT advantages agriculture offers to settlers in Southern California has already been indicated.  Endless opportunities are constantly arising through the rapid development of new localities which are often put on the map in a few months time.  There is ample room, however, for many more settlers and good land in abundance for many years yet to come since new territory is constantly being made available through the development of irrigating systems.  In the Los Angeles Valley alone are over half a million acres which can be brought into a high degree of cultivation so that if 10 acres were placed at the disposal of every inhabitant that one valley could hold 50,000 farmers.  Not only in fact could it receive them, it could also supply them with every desired article.</p><P>No happier paradise for the farmer can be found than Los Angeles County.  Imagine a land where, for only 20 or at the most 30 days a year, it is not possible to work outdoors as contrasted with 80 to 120 such days in the eastern states.  Summers need not be spent in raising products for man and beast to consume through the winter months; the farmer can devote the entire year to producing one thing after another, being kept in condition by the refreshing days of summer.  In addition to the work-horses and cows which need to be fed only for a short period in the year, all cattle, as has been pointed out, live without shelter and without storage feed the year through.  This means a material saving in outlay.  The farmer, furthermore, can have his house surrounded every month in the year with splendid fruit and glorious flowers.</p><P>The advantages of late frosts to the farmer have already been <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>135</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>114</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>115</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>116</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>117</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 22</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>SOME STATISTICS ON WEALTH IN THE COUNTY</p><P>IN 1868, the total property value according to the tax-collectors  was $3,764,045; by 1874, it had climbed to $12,332,522; of this amount land and improvements amounted to $8,004,098 and chattles to $4,319,424. This, in round numbers, was an increase in 8 years of 300 per cent.  In 1875, it had grown to $15,152,367; of that $10,324,191 was in fixed assets, that is, real estate, in addition to city properties and community holdings, while $4,861,806 was in liquid assets; improvements on the same amounted to $1,042,295; city and community property had a valuation of $3,033,256, improvements on same, $1,357,179, making a total of $4,764,176.</p><P>The present tax-rate for the state and county is $1.98 outside and $1.83 within the city; the city tax is $1.10.  Up to the present time, the large properties are taxed too dearly and the small too lightly. There are 20 tax-payers in the county whose property has increased from $72,000 to $713,000.  The 6 largest landowners are the Los Angeles Land Company, which owns 101,000 acres of land; Irvine Flint and Co., with 77,000; Pioche and Bayerque, 69,000; E. de Celis, 56,000; Beals and Baker, 53,000; James Lick, 51,000.  Most of these date back to the old Mexican land grants.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>139</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>140</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>119</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 23</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>EARLY HISTORY</p><P>THE founding of Los Angeles dates back to the second half of the last century.  On August 26, 1781, Luis Felipe de Neve, governor of California, issued and edict from Mission San Gabriel, which had already been founded in 1771, for the establishment of a new settlement-- <HI REND="italics">El Pueblo de la Reina de Los Angeles</HI>
205.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n23-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Especial care was taken to find a sightly, well-drained location.  On September 4, the settlement was founded in accordance with the laws governing Spanish colonization and organization of pueblos.<ANCHOR ID="n23-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Most of the first settlers were ex-soldiers from Mission San Gabriel who, although relieved from service, still drew salaries and rations.  The settlers consisted of 12 families, or 46 persons, of whom 23 were children.  Of the 12 families, 2 were Spanish, 2 mulatto, 2 negro, 4 Indian, 1 Chinese, and 1 half-breed.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-1">San Gabriel was founded September 8, 1771.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-2"><HI REND="italics">The City of the Queen of the Angels</HI>
205.sgm: was founded September 4, 1781.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">His. of Cal., I</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Of the women, 6 were mulattoes and 5 Indians.  One of the settlers was a widow with two children.  Among the others, eight had progeny.  The adults came from Lower California and were born, with the exception of the two Spaniards and the Chinaman, in Sinaloa and Sonora.  The names of these settlers were: Lara, Navarro, Rosas, Mesa, Villavicencia, Vanegas, Rosas, Rodriguez, Camero, Quintero, Moreno, and Rodriguez.<ANCHOR ID="n23-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-3">These settlers were: Jose&acute; de Lara; Jose&acute; Antonio Navarro, Basilio Rosas, Antonio Mesa, Antonio Villavicencio, Jose&acute; Vanegas, Alejandro Rosas, Pablo Rodriguez, Manuel Camero, Luis Quintero, Jose&acute; Moreno, and Antonio Miranda.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Each family received from the royal treasury two oxen, two mules, two stallions, two sheep, two cows, a calf, a donkey, a pig, and what tools were essential for farming.  For these articles, including the cattle, a price was established by the government to every settler in the community and the cost was to be deducted in small installments  from their salaries.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>141</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>120</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<P>In laying out the district, a parallelogram 100 x 75 <HI REND="italics">varas</HI>
205.sgm: was selected whose lines, instead of pointing toward the four main points of the compass, were set at adjacent angles.<ANCHOR ID="n23-4">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: On three sides of this plaza were 12 main house-sites, each 20 x 40 <HI REND="italics">varas</HI>
205.sgm:, together with two plots of a different size.  One-half of the parallelogram was reserved, while the other was used for a guard-house for the royal officers, and a dumping-ground.  This was located northeast of the present mission church.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-4"><HI REND="italics">Vara</HI>
205.sgm:<P>At the same time, 30 fields were staked out measuring 100 x 300 <HI REND="italics">varas</HI>
205.sgm:; these were separated by streets 3 <HI REND="italics">varas</HI>
205.sgm: wide. These fields lay between the Los Angeles River, which was then known as the <HI REND="italics">Porciu&acute;ncula</HI>
205.sgm:, and an irrigation canal that carried water to the settlement and on over to the east side.  The land stretching between the river and the canal measured over 120 <HI REND="italics">varas</HI>
205.sgm:.  After the settlement was established, the river cut a new channel on the west side, at the same time washing away the fields or covering them with sand. In 1825, the river again left its course and formed a third channel between the two earlier ones.</p><P>For the first fifty years, the population increased very gradually, being augmented only by a few pioneers and soldiers who had been dismissed from service and become settlers.  In 1836, Los Angeles for the first time was raised to the rank of a city, and, by an act of the Mexican Congress, was made capital of Alta California.<ANCHOR ID="n23-5">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: During his short career as governor, Don Carlos Carrillo made it the seat of civil government.  After the expulsion of Micheltorena it again became the seat of government under Don Pio Pico from January, 1844, to August, 1846.<ANCHOR ID="n23-6">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: At this time the city fell into the hands of the United States army after two sharply contested struggles against the Mexicans, one on the banks of the San Gabriel River, the other on the mesa opposite the city where General Kearney's army joined forces with marines sent up from port under Commander Stockton.<ANCHOR ID="n23-7">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: These, massing at the river, entered the city where they were reinforced by General Fremont from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>142</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>121</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:Santa Barbara.  Fortifications were hastily erected on the hill northwest of the city, but despite this fact the Americans were soon compelled by superior forces to abandon their posts and, pursued by the enemy, to withdraw to San Pedro.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-5">By a decree of May 23, 1835 (not 1836) Los Angeles became for a short time the capital of Alta Cal.  See Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Cal</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-6">It was in 1845 that Los Angeles was again made the capital under the governorship of Pio Pico.  Bancroft, <HI REND="italics">Hist. of Cal</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-7">On January 8, 1847, Mexican and American forces clashed at San Gabriel when the Californians attempted to check the invading American forces.  Again on January 9, a second skirmish took place close to Los Angeles.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Shortly after this event, however, war with Mexico ceased and Los Angeles was given over to the Americans.<ANCHOR ID="n23-8">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In view of these changed conditions there arose, as can be readily imagined, against the Americans on the part of the Californians a feeling of hostility.  This, nevertheless, gradually disappeared.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n23-8">California passed into American hands after Captain John C. Fremont, on June 14, 1846, captured Sonoma from the Mexican forces under General Vallejo.  Formal possession dates from January 13, 1849, when articles of capitulation were signed at Cahuenga.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>By the end of the Mexican war Los Angeles had a population of 2,000. Most of the houses at that time were of adobe, comparatively few were of wood, and none were of brick.  The streets were crooked and poorly paved. Not until 1853 did the Americans as well as the Europeans begin to feel established and settled, and real progress set in.  The first city plan was made at this time by Pacificus Ord; this is still the leading map in the city.</p><P>The gold-rush lured so many immigrants to Northern California that Southern California's excellent climate and fertile soil failed for a time to receive the attention they merited.  Not until 1867-1868 did the city begin to grow rapidly and show decided progress in the erection of handsome houses.  Fine buildings and substantial brick shops, hotels, schools, banks, factories sprang up, at this time, as if by magic.  But it is only within recent years that this growth has been so stupendous. From April to September, 1874, estimates show that about $300,000 was expended for business buildings and residences.  Even more building was done in 1875; estimates for that year place the building in and around Los Angeles at a total valuation of $95,000.  The increase is so rapid that a house is usually rented before the building is started.  Naturally, with such an increase in building activity the population has shown a corresponding increase.  This, which in 1870 was 5,728, soon grew to 13,000, and is now 16,000.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>143</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<illus entity="a205-0015" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>IN THE UPPER QUARTER OF LOS ANGELES</p></CAPTION>
205.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>144</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>123</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 24</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>LOS ANGELES</p><P>BEFORE continuing a discussion of Los Angeles, a brief sketch will be given of the fertile Los Angeles Valley.  This valley which is 20 miles wide and 50 miles long, runs from northwest to southeast.  It is bounded on the northeast by foothills that separate it from the San Fernando and El Monte Valleys, on the southwest by the ocean, and on the northwest by the ocean and foothills.  It contains 1,000 square miles, or 640,000 acres.  Of this, 160,000 acres are pasture-lands, an equal amount is land suitable for vineyards and semi-tropical fruits, while 320,000 acres are excellent for raising grain.  At least 500,000 acres, according to estimates, can be watered.  Since it has a gentle slope of 10 feet a mile toward the south, it is admirably adapted to irrigation both by ditches and artesian wells.  However, on both banks of the Los Angeles River for some distance back the soil is productive without irrigation.  Since the surface is raised only 7 or 8 feet above the river-bed the trees penetrate so deeply through the moist, loose, sandy soil that they find water. Generally speaking, the soil in the Los Angeles  Valley is extremely rich being for the most part a fine, sandy clay.  There are, indeed, stretches with too much alkali, but this can be overcome by planting beets and other plants that consume considerable potash.</p><P>The valley of Los Angeles can easily hold a million inhabitants, although it now supports less than 20,000.  Yet the many advantages offered by this newly-discovered region have already been recognized, a fact that accounts for the astounding growth of the city in recent years.  Situated as it is in the heart of a fertile <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>145</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>124</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:agricultural region in close proximity to the only two passes that cut through the mountains into the back-country thus connecting it with the coast, and only a short distance from the ocean where Wilmington affords an excellent harbor, Los Angeles is destined to become the second most important city in the State.  At its back door is the remarkably rich mining district of Arizona and New Mexico, a district that merely awaits a renewal of interest in mining.  Every year the railroad moves nearer these districts whose trade will naturally flow into Los Angeles.  The importance to this city of the southern trans-continental railway has already been indicated.</p><P>Rising at the foot of gently-sloping hills that tower 60 feet or more above it, Los Angeles spreads out over the southeastern end of the valley, rising partly on the foothills, and partly on the plains reaching southward and extending on over to the west bank of the Los Angeles River--the source of so much of its wealth--to where it breaks through a row of hills 20 miles north of San Pedro.  Los Angeles lies in the midst of a sunny garden 7 miles long and 8 in width, a site which is unequalled throughout the United States.  In appearance more like a series of gardens and country-places than a compact mass of houses, it covers an a rea of 6 square miles.  For purely local reasons, the city, instead of being a consumer is, oddly enough, a producer.  The yearly production from land within the city limits is, in fact, so great that it will practically support the entire population.</p><P>Viewed from a distance, Los Angeles is entrancing from every angle. Perhaps the best view, however, is that from Mr. Perry's house with its charming garden in the foreground, or from the west end, with the magnificent Sierra looming up in the background.<ANCHOR ID="n24-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In appearance, this city differs materially from other American cities since two elements, the American and the Mexican, are conspicuous.  Of these, the latter predominates.  The streets are unpaved and, in summer, very dusty.  There are three main <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>146</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>125</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:streets that run nearly parallel through the city.  The two upper streets, Main</p><P>and Spring streets, are the most important.  These are joined on the west by a third called San Pedro Street.  The city centers around the plaza; from here it stretches out, following the four main points of the compass, in every direction for what, in the language of the Californians, is known as a Mexican league.  This comment,</p><P>nevertheless, should not be taken too literally; it is rather, as observed above, a continuous chain of villas and gardens.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-1">W. H. Perry's house was located east of the river, near the Macy Street bridge.  He was one of the prominent citizens of that period.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>In the heart of the city are many board sidewalks which are kept in good condition.  Others, however, are made merely of earth packed down, with curbs of wood.  This custom of holding in dirt walks by planks is in common us age, in fact even steps and terraces are built in this manner on the hillsides.  In front of many of the houses a diagonal section has been paved.  Bordering the sidewalks are many peppers,--a tree highly favored for its delicate appearance,--slender eucalypti, castor-bean plants, and frequently the stately, full, weeping-willow.  Many trees along the street are boxed with boards.  On the side of the street nearest the gardens adobe walls are frequently seen enclosing planting; there are also in evidence willow hedges, trickling <HI REND="italics">zanjas</HI>
205.sgm:, and century plants.</p><P>Among the newer houses appear many stately buildings built of brick, wood, or Mexican adobe.  The latter are rapidly disappearing, however, being seen here and there in and near San Pedro Street, the Chinese quarter where most of the oldest houses are located, and especially in Sonoratown where many, badly in need of repairs, recall days gone by.  Well up on Main Street, however, may still be seen the house of Don&tilde;a Arcadia de Baker, a Californian lady living in Los Angeles who is the owner of Laguna.<ANCHOR ID="n24-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-2">Don&tilde;a Arcadia de Baker, nee&acute; Bandini, was first the wife of Abel Stearns and later, of Colonel Baker.  The Baker house was a large adobe, located on the site of the present Baker Block on lower Main Street.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Many of the houses are quite comfortable although most of them have been left in an unfinished state.  Frequently ivy is trained over the corners, its dark green foliage contrasting in a pleasing manner with the dark red buildings.  The majority of the houses on Main Street have wooden porches supported by rough timbers.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>147</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:Occasionally flag-poles are erected,--a popular American custom.  Among the newer wooden houses many are built in duplicate and stand close together; this is often seen in England and America.  Several houses have simple vines, that form an airy veil, trained over the porches.  Frequently these verandas occupy one entire corner of the house and cover a quarter of the lot.</p><P>Many of the houses stand back from the street, and are not only surrounded by small gardens but also have gardens out in front.  These are very nicely laid out and, thanks to adequate piping, are so thoroughly watered that even in midsummer they have patches of green turf.  In many instances the paths are stone-paved and the grass bordered with stone.  In certain houses an outside stairway leads directly from the gardens to the upper floor.</p><P>Numerous pepper trees are seen in these gardens, as well as the popular eucalyptus.  Frequently, too, are seen formal plantings of tall cypresses, together with almond and orange trees.  The <HI REND="italics">Araucaria excelsa</HI>
205.sgm: and the <HI REND="italics">Ficus elastica</HI>
205.sgm: flourish</p><P>everywhere.<ANCHOR ID="n24-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Houses, on the street-side, are usually enclosed with fences.  Holloday's Patent Mills often stand near the houses, especially those on the outskirts that derive their water supply from springs.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-3"><HI REND="italics">Araucaria excelsa</HI>
205.sgm:, the Norfolk Island Pine; <HI REND="italics">Ficus elastica</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Adjoining the houses of the more prosperous citizens and even close to the finest dwellings are often seen low wooden houses made of overlapping planks such as Americans use for laying roofs, and which have only one door, or a door and a few windows.</p><P>The city is lighted by gas.  Opposite the Pico House is a small gas-plant that supplies the lamps; at the end of Aliso St reet where Central Street branches off there is also a gas-plant.  The plaza, on which the Catholic mission church and the Pico House face, forms the beginning of Main Street.  At the plaza is a circular garden with a high central fountain, enclosed within an iron railing.  Main Street is the most animated of the three principal streets of Los Angeles and has the finest buildings.  On it, too, stands the City Hall, an ugly building that has 11 windows on one fac&cedil;ade <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>148</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:and 3 on the other. Six steps lead up to this building which is surmounted, moreover, by a noisy clock-tower.  Nearby, in addition to the imposing buildings of the Commercial Bank and Catholic cathedral, are some interesting stores where canned goods and enticing displays of Californian fruits--melons, watermelons, and other fine fruits of this remarkable country--are in evidence.  Farther down on Main Street the houses grow poorer, most of them being small wooden structures with tiny and often pleasant gardens.  There are many vacant lots, and some attractive houses.  Spring Street, the second principal street of Los Angeles, opens on the right into Main Street.  Here, on the upper side, is Turner Hall bearing the inscription "Welcome"; between this and the corner stands another building.  From this point the street runs directly west through groves of olives, walnuts, and oranges.  Into Main Street, an important street, Fourth Street, opens.  Down Fourth Street runs the tramway that connects with the line on Main Street.</p><P>The third and longest street which is south of Main Street also begins near the plaza, in the vicinity of <HI REND="italics">Calle de Los Negros</HI>
205.sgm: with its dilapidated old houses, and is called <HI REND="italics">Calle de San Pedro</HI>
205.sgm:.  It is dirtier and dustier than either of the others. Fairly broad where it begins, it gradually becomes narrower.  On the right-hand side is a large shop built of bricks.  Several of its houses have porches, some of them being quite extensive, with upper balconies. The tram runs past these and on down to the Santa Monica Station of the Los Angeles and Independence Railway, an elaborate renaissance structure with two towers, that resembles a church far more than a railroad.  It contrasts sharply with the other station in Los Angeles--that of the Southern Pacific Railway.<ANCHOR ID="n24-4">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: The lower end of this street passes primarily through gardens; between it and Main Street are some splendid orange groves.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-4">The Los Angeles and Independence Ry. opened on December 1, 1875; its depot was on San Pedro Street near Wolfskill Lane.  The Southern Pacific Depot, until 1878, was at Alameda and Commercial Streets.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Behind the City of Los Angeles stretches, as remarked above, a row of hills.  On these, houses are already beginning to rise.  These <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>149</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:hills are composed of an upper layer of conglomerates above with, below, strata of stone, made up of marl mixed with sand and mica-slate, together with horizontal banks of gravel mixed with decomposed granite. From these banks crushed-stone is extracted for the streets.  Over on these hills, are several cemeteries--those on the farthest hills being the Catholic--and the city burial-ground where the Jews and Chinese also have their graveyards.</p><P>A new street leads past the school-house to the summit of the hills, where, on the right, are four comparatively new houses.  The hill that rises directly at the rear of the plaza has the form of a cupola, and is crowned by several houses.  Its summit commands a magnificent view of Sonoratown and the Sierra.  Behind it is a small valley, then a second spur of hills and another valley.  Here the "cupolas" of Los Angeles, bending toward the east and west disappear from sight.  A miniature valley extending as far as the eye can see, known as <HI REND="italics">La Can&tilde;ada de Antonio Ignacio</HI>
205.sgm:, runs from east to west behind the low hills extending out from Los Angeles.  From here the hills rise again for a third time, being crowned again by several houses.  Back of this is a valley separating the chain of troughs through which, over a small wooden bridge, run water pipes.  Below is a water-reservoir, or kind of pond.  On the far side of the tiny valley rises a semi-circle of gent ly-sloping hills, heavily eroded.  These hills form an extensive ridge. Nearby is Charity Street, with its neat little villas surrounded by eucalypti, that commands a splendid view.<ANCHOR ID="n24-5">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: A steep, unfinished street leads from this ridge down to the vicinity of the Catholic Church on Main Street; the lower slope forms an extension of Hill Street.  Tiny, isolated dwellings that can scarcely be called houses, rise here and there. Many of these have fresh green grass plots which have water piped in from springs placed on the summit of the hill, and which forces water up from a lower reservoir into one holding a million gallons.  Toward the end of the range of hills where century plants rise so majestically is a small crooked gully <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>150</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:running down toward the southwest which flattens out as it joins a small brook.  From these heights there unfolds below a magnificent panorama of the middle and western section of Los Angeles, with its stately buildings, luxuriant fruit orchards and, winding off to the right as far as the eye can reach, the Los Angeles River.  On the left is a border of gentle hills that gradually disappear in the distance, merging finally into the plains.  Far off toward Santa Monica glimpses of the ocean may be had in three directions, over Wilmington, the Pacific Salt Works and behind Ballona.<ANCHOR ID="n24-6">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: On clear days the distant island of Catalina may be seen silhouetted against the horizon.  On the western tip of this row of hills lies an orange grove, aptly termed Bellview Terrace, which belongs to Mr. Prudent Beaudry, Mayor of Los</p><P>Angeles.<ANCHOR ID="n24-7">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This, which has an area of six and a half acres and is surrounded with eucalypti, has 400 strong, young orange trees, 125 limes and lemons, many other fruit trees, and several vineyards. For fertility of soil and magnifice nce of view it is a perfect jewel. Upon descending from Bellview Terrace, City Gardens--a small public garden now being laid out--enclosed with a picket fence is reached.<ANCHOR ID="n24-8">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-5">Charity Street is now Grand Avenue.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-6">La Ballona, an enormous land grant of 14,000 acres, estended from the city limits to Santa Monica, and was owned by the Machado family.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-7">Bellview Terrace, owned by Prudent Beaudry, mayor of Los Angeles, was near Hope and Fifth Sts.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-8">City Gardens was a six or seven acre tract located at San Pedro and Eighth Streets where F. X. Eberle operated an amusement park.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Los Angeles is the seat of the county government and now has, as already said, a population of 16,000.  These are about equally divided between Americans, Europeans, and Californians.  Americans and Europeans, however, have given the greatest impetus to the present development.  The former own the most houses and land in the city; the latter control the bulk of the commerce.  In this latter branch the Irish and Germans have also been notably successful.  The native Californians, on the other hand, have gone in largely for ranching, sheep-herding, and the raising of vineyards and orange trees.  Despite the cosmopolitan nature of the inhabitants--on the streets are heard spoken English, French, Spanish, German, and Italian--the community spirit predominates, being strengthened by a mutual interest in the city's advancement.  Largely for this reason, despite the many <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>151</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:improvements that have been made, the city is free from debt.  This contrasts noticeably with conditions in Europe, especially in Austria, where, without apparent reasons, various nationalities waste considerable time in futile hostilities that result in nothing but endless friction.  Out here, on the contrary, independence and the progressiveness of the citizens unite all factions in constructive activities.</p><P>Even now there are any number of wealthy men; ex-Governor John G. Downey, an Irishman by birth, is considered to possess the greatest wealth.<ANCHOR ID="n24-9">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-9">John G. Downey came to Los Angeles in 1850 and opened a store on Los Angeles and Commercial Streets.  Later he became governor  of California.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Owing to the mixed population in Los Angeles, there are naturally many denominations.  These, however, have so much mutual tolerance that they work with the utmost energy to build churches side by side.  Of these, the Catholics, as already said, have the strongest following. In addition to chapels and educational institutions, they have erected two public churches.</p><P>What is known as the Los Angeles Mission was established shortly after the pueblo was founded, for the benefit of the Spanish soldiers in the new settlement.<ANCHOR ID="n24-10">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This church is still standing near the southern end of the city at the plaza.  Its fac&cedil;ade is bleak and unattractive; within is a flat ceiling supported on either side by four columns.  Directly in front of the altar is an ornamental arch bearing the inscription <HI REND="italics">Reyna de Los Angeles ruega por nosotros</HI>
205.sgm:. On the inner side of the fac&cedil;ade is the inscription, <HI REND="italics">Los Fieles de esta Parroquia a la Reyna de los Angeles 1861</HI>
205.sgm:.  Nearby stands the parish house surrounded by a small garden.  Also facing on the plaza is a wooden house with a double veranda surmounted by a cross.  Formerly a public school, it is now a private residence.  As a result of the rapid increase in population, there has also been built on Main Street a splendid cathedral.  This was recently completed in 1876 at a cost of $80,000.<ANCHOR ID="n24-11">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: It is the result, largely, of the efforts of the zealous Bishop of Los Angeles, Don Tadeo Amat, who like so many Catholic priests in this country, is from Catalonia.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>152</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:This church is said, furthermore, to be practically copied after one in Catalonia.  It is a stately brick building with three naves.  Architecturally, it suggests the renaissance.  The fac&cedil;ade, which is built with a gable, has a statue on either side and the letters D.O.M. ( <HI REND="italics">Deo optimo maximo</HI>
205.sgm: ) in the center.  Each side of the two sections has a double railing across the front surmounted by statues representing the four prophets.  In the center is a rose with a niche on either side.  On the frieze is inserted in gold lettering the dedication: " <HI REND="italics">Dicata subinvocatione Sanct&aelig; Vibian&aelig; Virginis et Martyris A.D. 1876</HI>
205.sgm:."   Three doors, separated by ornamental pilasters, lead into the airy interior.  The main floor is surmounted by a gable, the two side portals by broken arches.  At the sides, the church has eight supporting columns; at the rear is an octagonal-shaped tower, surmounted by a</p><P>belfry.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-10">This was a chapel or <HI REND="italics">asistencia</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-11">Sancta Vibiana Cathedral was erected in 1871 on Main Street, south of Second.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The St. Athanasius Episcopal Church is located at the corner of Temple and New High (Hill) Streets.  It has a congregation of 30 members. The Methodist Church on Fourth Street is a large wooden, Gothic edifice and has what is a characteristically church-like tower on the right that is surmounted by a pointed helmet.  This church numbers 192 members and has a Sunday School attendance of 190 more.</p><P>The Methodist Church South, which was organized about three years ago with only 10 members, now has a congregation of 65.  These members have built a good church and support a Sunday School.</p><P>The Methodist Negroes Church is at the summit of the hill near Charity Street.</p><P>The Presbyterian Church is on the right hand side of Hill Street near the Episcopal Church, and, though organized only two years ago with 15 members, now has 143 in its congregation.  Their first meetings were held in Good Templars Hall on Main Street.  In their Sabbath School are over 100 children.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>153</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>The Congregational Church is on New High (Hill) Street and has 65 members; the Sunday School has an attendance of 90 children.</p><P>On Spring Street is the German Evangelist Church which is also used by the Baptists.  This was organized in Los Angeles in 1874 by four members.  In 1875 the pastor resigned and since that time it has been without a minister.  The church now has 30 members and a Sunday School of 40 children.</p><P>In Los Angeles there is also a Christian sect.  This congregation, as it is only nine months old, has no church as yet in Los Angeles, having only 30 members.  To offset this, at Downey City this group has a church of 114 members which has many supporters along the Santa Ana River.  They are planning, furthermore, to establish a church at Orange.</p><P>Lastly, there is the B'nai B'rith, with some 60 members.</p><P>On the right hand side of Fourth Street is the Jewish Church, a brick building with a hideous Gothic facade.  The service begins on Sabbath, Friday evening, and ends Saturday evening.  Sunday School is held Sunday morning; every Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday the children receive lessons in Hebrew.</p><P>Several fraternal organizations are established in Los Angeles: The Odd Fellows lodge, the strongest secular organization in California; two Masonic lodges, besides a chapter and a council of higher degree; two Redmen's clubs; one of Knights of Pythias; one each of Good Templars, Sons of Temperance, and Champion of the Red Cross; a Jewish, a French, and an Irish benevolent society; a Turner-Verein; a French hospital; and a home under the auspices of the Sisters of Charity.</p><P>Private instruction may be had at Lawler Institute, a Catholic College for boys, and at a girls' school under the direction of the Sisters.  The Catholic College, St. Vincent's, is situated in the west end of town in a pleasant garden.  It is a large, ugly building with 7 windows and a gable in front surmounted by a cross and ball.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>154</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:Through the building runs a central corridor.  On the second floor are the do rmitories.  The college also contains a library and small chapel. From a small terrace an excellent view may be had over the city of Los Angeles.  Out in the garden is a beautiful vine-covered pergola where the boys gather.  In front of the house stands a small fountain.  This institution has 3 classes with an enrollment, last year, of some 70 students.  Of these, the majority are Catholics.</p><P>Similar in architecture and general arrangement is the Sisters' School which is out in the east end of the city.</p><P>Of all the public schools, the high school is unquestionably one of the outstanding buildings in the city.</p><ANCHOR ID="n24-12">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:<P>Because of its favorable situation, it is visible from afar, standing out conspicuously above the orchards and city.  This imposing building, which cost $39,000, is a two-story wooden structure with 10 windows both front and rear, some projecting additions, and a clock-tower.  On either side of the entrance flights of steps rise.  The building itself contains cloakrooms for the pupils and 8 large, airy schoolrooms equipped with substantial benches manufactured in Illinois.  Slate black-boards used for writing and drawing are hung on the walls; these are covered with selected proverbs.  The school has four grades, the two highest being upstairs.  Out in front is a flagpole and wooden steps leading down the steep hill into the city.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-12">The old high school, located on the hill above North Broadway, was erected in 1873 and was long an early landmark.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The Los Angeles Public Library is in the Downey Block and belongs to a company that was organized in 1872.  First opened in 1873, it now numbers about 400 members.  Two Thousand volumes have already been placed on its shelves while a full supply of the best magazines, reviews, illustrated journals, and eastern and foreign newspapers and publications is to be found on its tables.  The membership fee is $250; the dues are $.50 a month, or $5 a year.  Every member may take out 2 volumes at the same time.  Strangers are permitted to use the rooms; however, they cannot take out books without becoming members.  The rooms are open every afternoon, including Sundays, and every evening, from seven to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>155</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:ten.  A chess and social room is maintained in conjunction with the library.  To encourage the development of agriculture a permanent exhibition hall is to be opened shortly.  Here the semitropical products of the country will be exhibited for the benefit of strangers with the idea of stimulating their production on the part of the local residents.</p><P>Several newspapers are published here in Los Angeles.  The most widely circulated of all are the daily and weekly <HI REND="italics">Herald</HI>
205.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Star</HI>
205.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">Express</HI>
205.sgm:.  The first is a morning paper; the latter are evening publications.  Both put out extra editions.  The <HI REND="italics">School-master</HI>
205.sgm:, a weekly, is the organ of the public schools of the county.  The <HI REND="italics">Mirror</HI>
205.sgm: is published once a week and is distributed gratuitously by the Mirror Office.  The <HI REND="italics">New Italy</HI>
205.sgm:, a monthly, is published in Los Angeles by the Immigration and Co-operative Association.  This sheet contains many notices about the country as a whole, especially the outlying estates in whose interests it is published. The <HI REND="italics">Southern California Post</HI>
205.sgm:, a weekly, has a good circulation, especially among the German population in all parts of the city and country.  <HI REND="italics">The Chronicle</HI>
205.sgm:, published semi-weekly, is widely circulated in California, Arizona, New Mexico, the Central South American countries, and even in Spain.</p><P>Comfortable accommodations for strangers have been amply provided in Los Angeles.  There are several hotels which are generally filled to capacity during the winter season by travellers who come out to enjoy the mild climate of Southern California.</p><P>The best of these is the Pico House, which, like all the four leading hotels, is down on Main Street.<ANCHOR ID="n24-13">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This is an imposing building of two stories with 14 windows on its facade.  Built of extra-heavy construction, it is supposed to be the most safe in the entire city in case of earthquakes.  It was built under the supervision of its present proprietor, Sen&tilde;or Cuyas, an amiable and intelligent Catalonian. The building, which was begun in 1870, cost $48,000 and was furnished at an expenditure of $34,000 more.  It has 82 rooms, 21 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>156</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>135</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:of them suites with baths, and is lighted by gas.  The handsome parlor is the rendezvous for many of the e&acute;lite of the city.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-13">The Pico House was built in 1869 on the site of the old Carrillo residence on Main Street opposite the plaza.  Later it was known as the National Hotel.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Next in importance to the Pico House is the Clarendon Hotel. This has 120 rooms--25 are elaborate suites with bath--and is illuminated with gas.  The Lafayette Hotel has 100 rooms and baths.  The United States Hotel has 74 rooms, costing $40,000 to build and $20,000 to furnish.<ANCHOR ID="n24-14">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In addition, there are several hotels of inferior order.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-14">The Lafayette Hotel was on Main Street opposite the Bella Union.  The name Bella Union Hotel was changed later to the Clarendon Hotel, and, finally, to the St. Charles.  The United States Hotel, one of the oldest in the city, extended from Main to Los Angeles Streets near the plaza.  Later it became the National Hotel.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>One particular section of Los Angeles is known as Sonora, so-called because most of its inhabitants were originally from Sonora in Old Mexico. This, which is the Californian quarter of Los Angeles, extends north from the Catholic Mission Church on out through the valley.  Behind Sonora rise low hills thick with <HI REND="italics">no-pale</HI>
205.sgm:.  The city is traversed in this quarter by four main streets.  Of these, one is very broad.  All in all, however, this region has a shabby appearance, even though it has several good adobe houses with flat asphalt roofs, a few that are roofed with tile, and several with shingle roofs.</p><P>Sonoratown has two tramways.  One of these runs down the center of the broadest street toward the Catholic cemetery; the other after crossing the wide bed of the Los Angeles River via a wooden bridge, runs over into East Los Angeles.  From the opposite bank of the river, where castor-beans grow rankly, the view over the Los Angeles Valley with its green alder-bushes is magnificent.</p><P>Here, high up on the gently rolling ground, are scattered the houses that comprise East Los Angeles.  This is a comparatively new part of the city, but it will soon develop into one of its finest sections.  Subdivided by ex-Governor Downey, Dr. Griffin, and his nephew, Hancock Johnston, elaborate plans have been made for its development; 170 acres were set aside from Dr. Griffin's 2,000-acre ranch for the creation of East Los Angeles.<ANCHOR ID="n24-15">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In this tract, lots were sold only on condition the purchaser erected a fence <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>157</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:and set out a definite number of trees.  Eight-inch pipes connect this section of the city with the Los Angeles water-system.  On Downey Avenue, which is 100 feet wide, Dr. Griffin has reserved 30 acres for his home near that of Mr. Johnston; it stands in an attractive park filled with walnut, Italian chestnut, pecan, and almond trees, many varieties of grapes, and also orange, lemon, lime, olive, and pomegranate trees.  The park is watered by two mills which supply three reservoirs.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-15">This large holding had been purchased as sheep-pasturage in 1863 for $.50 an acre by Dr. J. S. Griffin, a prominent surgeon of Los Angeles.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The streets of Los Angeles fairly teem with activity.  Because of the mixed population, they are always colorful and interesting. Street-cars cross the principal streets and travel according to the American custom, down to the terminus, returning in the opposite direction.  On the streets numerous vehicles and carriages are seen--four-seated carriages with heavy springs, light American vehicles, and frequently, small carriages driven by Chinese.  In Los Angeles, the Americans usually drive in place of riding horse-back.  Many riders, however, are in evidence, for the Spaniards, Frenchmen, and Italians prefer riding to driving.  Spanish boys are often seen galloping gaily. Young Californians, brown as Arabs, also ride by, sometimes stopping their horses near the fruit-stores and then galloping rapidly away, followed by their bull-dogs, up the dusty streets.</p><P>A gay crowd of men and animals is constantly coming and going on the streets.  Innumerable bronze-colored half-breeds from the Mexican province of Sonora wearing plug hats on their dusky heads, tanned Scotchmen in straw helmets, distinguished Spaniards in riding clothes, and animated, laughing girls in large cotton capes and broad straw hats pass by.  Upon passing on down the streets strange sights are constantly encountered: barber shops where customers stretch out nonchalantly; elevated seats where men lean back smoking cigarettes while their shoes are being polished; Chinese laundries bearing strange inscriptions advertising their activities; political notices posted from one end of the street <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>158</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<illus entity="a205-0016" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>SONORA AND THE MOUNTAIN RANGES</p></CAPTION>
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205.sgm:to the other; vendors driving carts and selling fish. The streets are at the peak of their activity in the evenings, especially at the entrance to the opera-house where there is so much pushing and shouting going on that it is difficult to get through.  In highly-lighted bars groups of ranchers drink gaily in an effort to forget the trials and tribulations of the past week.</p><P>In summer, the dust is distinctly disagreeable; however, in the morning the streets are frequently watered from sprinkling-carts.  The dust on the sidewalks is settled by using a hose attached to water connections inside the house.</p><P>In the evenings, the Californians often congregate on horseback just beyond Sonoratown for contests.  In one of these they ride under an arch and try to catch a ring on a lance.  This game which is called <HI REND="italics">Las Argollas</HI>
205.sgm: is a relic of Spanish times when the game was exceedingly popular.</p><P>Only two public gardens, in addition to the small city gardens previously mentioned, exist in the city.  One of these, which is at the terminus of the Spring Street car-line, is called Washington Garden.<ANCHOR ID="n24-16">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This garden, which once belonged to O. V. Waldron, contains 35 acres.  It has many fruit trees, a large vineyard trained over a wooden trellis, and, in the center, an octagonal-shaped covered platform for music and dancing.  There are also several rows of fine orange, fig, and olive trees, as well as pomegranates.  In addition to these is a large dance-hall, an airy building decorated with 7 flat arches which has seats on either side.  This is used for many kinds of entertainments.  Back of this hall is a young orange grove and a small menagerie where a lioness, a bear, a leopard, an eagle, and several monkeys are exhibited.  Nearby is a small house surrounded by a veranda. This garden is extremely popular with the public at large and is the principal place of amusement.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-16">Washington Gardens.  A park of 35 acres, owned by D. V. Waldron and located on the southwest corner of Main and Washington Streets.  It was later known as Chute's Park.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Out beyond in the same general direction (this will soon be connected by tramway) after passing several windmills, a second garden, called the race-track, or Agricultural Park, is located.<ANCHOR ID="n24-17">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>160</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>138</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:This is where the races are held.  The park is a mile in circumference and is completely enclosed by a board fence.  Within, in a setting of eucalyptus trees, in an inn and bleachers for spectators.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-17">Agricultural Park: Now Exposition Park.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>In conclusion several of the most important properties in Los Angeles will be described.  On San Pedro Street is the orchard of Mr. Wolfskill; this comprises 130 acres and has both young and old orange trees, nurseries, and two acres of thirty-year walnut strees.<ANCHOR ID="n24-18">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: On the opposite side of the same street is Dr. Shaw's Los Angeles nursery.<ANCHOR ID="n24-19">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This has been planted out in oranges that were raised from seed brought up from Nicaragua and later transplanted into his garden.  Next come the orchards and nurseries of G. W. Childs, Esq., one of the early settlers who came out twenty-three years ago, and who has 50 acres on the south side of Main Street.  The number of trees sold by him yearly, mainly oranges, lemons, and limes, amounts to $20,000.  He also raises excellent Italian chesnuts, a tree that grows splendidly and bears many large nuts and is admirably suited to local conditions.  On the north side of Main Street opposite this fruit garden is a dwelling surrounded by a 5-acre park, which is attractively planted and in a flourishing state, owing to the ample supply of water available.  Here nectarines, apples, pears, and grapes indigenous to Southern France are raised.  Further on down Main Street lives Captain Thom.<ANCHOR ID="n24-20">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Diagonally across the street from him are Colonel J. G. Howard's gardens. These are both ornamental places.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-18">William Wolfskill came overland in 1831 to Los Angeles and became one of its prominent settlers.  One of the first to plant oranges, his orchard on Alameda Street was long a famous landmark.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-19">Dr. Shaw's Los Angeles Nursery was on San Pedro Street near Adams.  Dr. Shaw made a trip to Nicaragua purposely to secure orange seeds.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n24-20">This was Cameron E. Thom.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>On the west side of the street are Elijah H. Workman's 7 acres--a property that has both a pleasant view and a fine assortment of productive fruit trees.  Next comes George Dalton's superb vineyard, a vineyard that produces annually from 3,000 to 8,000 gallons of wine. On his grounds are raised many fine walnuts.  For purposes of irrigation a mill has been erected.  Not far beyond lies the Frohling garden, with rows of flourishing orange trees--and an extensive vineyard surrounded by a white-washed board fence.</p><P>On west from here is Rubio's large garden and nursery; this has <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>161</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>139</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:20,000 young orange and citrus trees, including blood-oranges, largely imported from Italy.  He also has an extensive vineyard where grapes both for the table and for wine-making are raised.</p><P>On upper Aliso Street is T. Jefferson White's "Casalinda," a fine fruit garden filled with flourishing nut trees and two large weeping-willows.  Near Mr. White's grounds are 12 acres belonging to J. D. Woodworth, who paid $1,000 an acre for his land only a short time ago.  He has a magnificent orchard of oranges and lemons as well as the oldest vineyards in the city of Los Angeles.  Among his vines are 2,000 ninety years old; from each of these vines he gathers 70 pounds of grapes.</p><P>Mention should also be made of the young orange trees of ex-Governor Downey, and the new grove of Beaudry--a circular grove in the hills back of Sonoratown, surrounded by a hedge of eucalypti--who has also set out several groves of eucalypti.  This property has a windmill and large containers for storing water.  Not far away stand the two large city reservoirs.  Beyond are Colonel Norvan C. Jone's "Inverness" of 48 acres, which is bounded on three sides by Kohler, Wolfskill, and Bexas Streets. On Los Nietos Street is a station; the city stretches out only to the foot of this new quarter.</p><P>Dr. Matthew Keller's garden of 75 acres on Alameda Street also merits mention.  Keller, who was one of the early settlers, has done much for the grape industry, which he has developed on a large scale. Among wines made by him are the following; claret, port, white wine, madeira, sherry, and angelica.  To prepare them he has purchased a complete equipment of presses, distilleries, and miscellaneous equipment. His wines are exported in large quantities and his products have an enviable reputation on the market.  He also raises cotton and tobacco.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>162</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 25</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>A DRIVE ALONG THE LOS ANGELES RIVER</p><P>MEMORIES of the past, of the early days of the Indians and Californians, are vividly recalled by driving along the broad, almost waterless bed of the Los Angeles River through country that is still virgin, uninhabited, and where the silence of Nature is unbroken.  Even the names of this river's tributaries hark back to the remote past:  <HI REND="italics">El Alamo</HI>
205.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Pacoima</HI>
205.sgm:, the <HI REND="italics">Tuhunga, Los Verdugos</HI>
205.sgm:, and, lastly, on the left, the <HI REND="italics">Arroyo Seco</HI>
205.sgm:.  The latter, although called the Dry Brook, presents the gravest danger, because of its floods, to Los Angeles.  This, however, is somewhat protected by a stone hill, <HI REND="italics">La Toma</HI>
205.sgm: (so-called from the waters that drain off and from whose sheer sides slabs of stone are extracted to be utilized in the city).<ANCHOR ID="n25-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: The most serious flood in the Arroyo Seco occurred in 1825.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-1"><HI REND="italics">La Toma</HI>
205.sgm: (probably <HI REND="italics">La Loma</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Not only the rivers but also the mountains bear fantastic Californian names.  The high chain stretching to the Arroyo Seco is called <HI REND="italics">La Cordillera de los Verdugos</HI>
205.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n25-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: It continues on toward the valley and to <HI REND="italics">La Calera</HI>
205.sgm: where chalk is mined.<ANCHOR ID="n25-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Toward the north are seen in succession the <HI REND="italics">Tuhunga, Pacoima, Las Palomas, El Alomar</HI>
205.sgm:, and the <HI REND="italics">San Francisquito</HI>
205.sgm: ranges.<ANCHOR ID="n25-4">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Southward, in the opposite direction, is the <HI REND="italics">Cordillera de los Verdugos</HI>
205.sgm:, followed by the <HI REND="italics">San Gabriel, Santa Anita, Azusa, San Dimas, San Antonio</HI>
205.sgm:, and <HI REND="italics">Cucamonga</HI>
205.sgm:, and lastly, the <HI REND="italics">Can&acute;on de los Negros</HI>
205.sgm: and <HI REND="italics">San Bernardino</HI>
205.sgm: ranges.<ANCHOR ID="n25-5">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: And while the sight of these ranges conjures up memories of the life of the Indians and the days of the Franciscan fathers, the hissing train that passes over a wooden bridge and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>164</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>142</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:runs out to San Fernando dissipates these reveries.  Upon leaving the <HI REND="italics">Arroyo Seco</HI>
205.sgm: on the right, the river-bed disappears behind a range of hills that separate it from the main valley.  On the left, a wooded, gently sloping hill comes into view; this marks the beginning of <HI REND="italics">Rancho de los Verdugos</HI>
205.sgm:.  To the right of the Los Angeles River, on whose banks many graceful willows attain an extraordinary height, rises a striking group of mountains, <HI REND="italics">El Potrero de los Felizes</HI>
205.sgm:, topped by a peak called <HI REND="italics">Portesuelo de Cahuenga</HI>
205.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n25-6">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Directly opposite is a place famous for its tragic story connected with the early days in California; this now bears the name, <HI REND="italics">El Muerte de Pedro Feliz</HI>
205.sgm:, after a man who was murdered in 1837 by his wife and her lover under tragic circumstances.  The wife, who was riding horseback ahead of her husband according to local custom, suddenly seized his feet, pulling him off his horse.  By dragging him behind her she gave her lover, Don Manuel Raquena, an opportunity to follow and kill the unfortunate Don Pedro with a stone.  The thick evergreen oaks covering the adjacent hills may have aided, perhaps, in concealing this scene of murder.  Even now when the bright sun smiles down on the wooded slope, this tragic tale is recalled only with horror.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-2"><HI REND="italics">La Cordillera de los Verdugos</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-3"><HI REND="italics">La Calera</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-4"><HI REND="italics">El Alomar (Tuhunga</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-5"><HI REND="italics">Can&tilde;on de los Negros</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-6"><HI REND="italics">Portesuelo de Cahuenga</HI>
205.sgm:<P>The country studded with alders on the flat banks of the river is called <HI REND="italics">La Talaya</HI>
205.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n25-7">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Further on up the Los Angeles Valley appears the <HI REND="italics">Potrero de los Felizes Los Pescaditos</HI>
205.sgm:, where, at one time, brook trout were found in large numbers.<ANCHOR ID="n25-8">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In front, stretching out like a great curtain, is the <HI REND="italics">Cordillera Tuhunga</HI>
205.sgm:, crowned by the stately Sierra Madre.  Continuing on to the right the way leads to Portesuelo, with its cornfields and scattered houses, then past the <HI REND="italics">Can&tilde;ada de Francisco Mari&acute;a</HI>
205.sgm:, so-called from a treacherous Indian who lived down in a gully and was greatly feared by his neighbors.<ANCHOR ID="n25-9">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: These unpleasant memories are soon dispelled, however, by visioning what appears a veritable paradise on earth--a grove of olives and assorted fruit trees, particularly peaches, pears, and apples, as well as a sunny vineyard. The water flowing through these <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>165</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>143</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:gardens and which is used for irrigation comes down from the <HI REND="italics">Can&tilde;ada de los Verdugos</HI>
205.sgm:. Julio Verdugo was the creator of these charming gardens.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-7"><HI REND="italics">La Talaya (probably La Talaga</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-8"><HI REND="italics">Potrero de los Felizes los Pescaditos</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-9"><HI REND="italics">Can&tilde;ada de Francisco Mari&acute;a</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Upon our arrival we were greeted by the inmates with the warmest hospitality.  A child on horseback--Californians are trained to ride from infancy--brought us a chair while a small boy without reins or saddle galloped by on a sorrel horse.  After we were seated together with these brown, half-Indian faces under a pear tree heavy with fruit, a man brought out two knives and served us splendid watermelons.  These were genuinely refreshing on a hot day.  The frank hospitality with which this was offered put us quite at our ease and left the impression that, under these bronze-colored countenances, Spanish blood surged.  After describing what fine products were raised in their gardens, and how they were marketed in Los Angeles--they also raise apples to dry--they spoke wistfully of life in the past and of the days when there was great freedom.  They live quite simply and have only three small wooden houses.</p><P>Having left this delightful spot, a valley was reached where directly ahead rose the mysterious <HI REND="italics">Piedra Gorda</HI>
205.sgm:, the goal of our journey.<ANCHOR ID="n25-10">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: At the right is the <HI REND="italics">Cie&acute;nega del Garvanza</HI>
205.sgm:, a small green swamp with clumps of bunch-grass and at the bottom, <HI REND="italics">Sacate de Matico</HI>
205.sgm:, which never dries out.<ANCHOR ID="n25-11">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: From here we emerged on a plain where enormous herds of sheep, guarded by strong, fat, shaggy dogs, pastured.  Nearby is the entrance into the Canyon of <HI REND="italics">Piedra Gorda</HI>
205.sgm:, a wilderness of luxuriant vegetation that forms an almost impenetrable thicket, often the haunt of wild beasts. The <HI REND="italics">Piedra Gorda</HI>
205.sgm:, towering above, is an imposing rock of granite conglomerates on one side with exposed parallel strata having two sharply defined hollows in which swallows have built their nests.  It was also used at one time by the Indians as a natural bulwark, a rock fortress. Since, from this point, a fine view off across the horizon as far as Los Angeles may be had, this spot was an excellent <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>166</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>144</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:location from which to observe the movements of the first settlers.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-10"><HI REND="italics">Piedra Gorda</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-11"><HI REND="italics">Cie&acute;nega del Garvanza</HI>
205.sgm: was at York and Eagle Rock Boulevards; <HI REND="italics">Sacate de Matico</HI>
205.sgm:<P>After leaving the <HI REND="italics">Piedra Gorda</HI>
205.sgm: and crossing over a low saddle of hills, the <HI REND="italics">Aguaje del Garvanza</HI>
205.sgm: is reached.<ANCHOR ID="n25-12">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This contains a small ranch with pastures, wooden houses with porches, and sheep-corrals.  Nearby a spring flows.  The valley here flattens out into a vast meadow cut by a small brook that flows on into the Arroyo Seco.  Above is San Pasqual with its orange groves; crossing over small stones and boulders through the bed of the Arroyo Seco with its alders, a hill is reached which is thickly covered with a whitish plant called by Californians <HI REND="italics">Ramita ceniza</HI>
205.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n25-13">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This plant is said to have the property of preventing the wounds of animals from becoming infected.  From this hill a superb view opens out over the entire valley of the Arroyo Seco, the Los Angeles River, and far across the mountains and valley.  So enticing is the view that it inspires the traveller to loiter here for hours.  Upon descending and leaving, on the left, the <HI REND="italics">Can&tilde;ada Grande</HI>
205.sgm:, the broad extensive Mesa of San Rafael is reached where yellow-brown hills stretch out towards San</p><P>Gabriel.<ANCHOR ID="n25-14">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: On their summit a group of horses graze.  Climbing down over chalky rocks a pleasant valley, <HI REND="italics">El Valle de la Rosa de Castilla</HI>
205.sgm:, watered by a brook of the same name that has an outlet in the <HI REND="italics">Laguna de Monterey</HI>
205.sgm: is reached.<ANCHOR ID="n25-15">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Here the ground is considerably broken up and where especially dry is what the Californians call <HI REND="italics">tierra arrastrada</HI>
205.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n25-16">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This, however, can be readily utilized for raising grain.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-12"><HI REND="italics">Aguaje del Garvanza</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-13"><HI REND="italics">Ramita ceniza</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-14"><HI REND="italics">Can&tilde;ada Grande</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-15"><HI REND="italics">El Valle de la Rosa de Castilla</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-16"><HI REND="italics">Tierra arrastrada</HI>
205.sgm:<P>The road leading from here to San Gabriel Mission swings toward the right through gently rolling hills and on past the railroad leading to San Bernardino.  In the background tower the impressive Cucamonga Mountains.</p><P>Where the brook dwindles off into a swamp is the <HI REND="italics">Portesuelo de la Rosa de Castilla</HI>
205.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n25-17">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In this place the soil, which heretofore was merely rich, now shows a vein of chalk-covered marble lying between layers of quartz-like sandstone.  This forms a kind of natural stone bridge which is said to have been used by the Indians <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>167</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>145</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:in passing over the marshy lands.  It is called <HI REND="italics">Puente de la Viejas</HI>
205.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n25-18">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: With it is associated an old witch-story to the effect that whenever horses passed this point, the witches would hold them prisoners for a quarter of an hour while they indulged in all kinds of evil pranks.  The brook, at one point, also reveals a stretch of this same stone.  Pools of water remain throughout the summer and here the sheep come to drink.  On beyond this is higher ground called <HI REND="italics">La Loma Alta</HI>
205.sgm:.<ANCHOR ID="n25-19">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: After passing an adobe house, <HI REND="italics">Las Positas</HI>
205.sgm:, the road to San Gabriel is reached, and, later, Los Angeles.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-17"><HI REND="italics">Portesuelo de la Rosa de Castilla</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-18"><HI REND="italics">Puente de la Viejas</HI>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n25-19"><HI REND="italics">La Loma Alta</HI>
205.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>168</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO></PRINTPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 26</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>RANCHO DE LA LAGUNA</p><P>ONE of the most interesting drives in the vicinity of Los Angeles, a drive where glimpses may be also had of early California, is that leading to <HI REND="italics">Rancho de la Laguna</HI>
205.sgm:.  On the way to this rancho the road leads past Perry's house, noted for its fine view out over Los Angeles, and across gardens filled with vineyards and orange trees, which have already been mentioned, and which, with its projecting balconies, airy verandas, and orange garden fenced in with pickets is one of the finest places in the vicinity of Los Angeles.  After passing a charming cottage and travelling on across rolling hills, the road continues along the banks of the Los Angeles River that serves as a boundary-line for the orchards.  The ground is undulating and most of the houses passed are built on knolls.  Occasionally down in gulches are found springs.  After crossing one unusually deep ravine the road emerges onto an extensive hill that commands a vast view off across the plains where the distant mountain peak of San Pedro looms against the horizon. From this point the road redescends gradually to the plains.  Glancing off into the far distance only an occasional ranch, clumps of trees, or the dust of a travelling vehicle is seen to break the monotony of the landscape.  At the base of the hill where the plain begins, a river with a dry sandy bed is crossed, and at this point the road continues on to Los Nietos.  Another road, however, turns to the right and leads to the <HI REND="italics">Rancho de la Laguna</HI>
205.sgm: where the early Californian ranch-house with the mountains in the background makes a charming picture.<ANCHOR ID="n26-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: The house is an extensive adobe structure, surrounded by porches supported by 15 columns and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>170</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>148</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:enclosed by a picket rail.  The roof is of brea and has a wooden cornice and small wooden drains.  An inner patio contains a well; adjoining this is a corral for sheep.  Numerous horses pastured near the rancho enhance the atmosphere of early California.  Not far from the house lies the lagoon which is thickly covered, along its edges, by a reed belonging to the mallow family.  Near the water willows grow rankly; back from the shore grows fresh grass.  Adjoining the house is a shallow pool, then marshy land overgrown with swamp reeds, and, here and there, willows.  Beyond is navigable water where a small flat-bottom boat is tied, which, though equipped for rowing, appears to have been virtually abandoned.  Gay dragon-flies flutter over the banks, ravens saunter solemnly around the pool, wild duck and many pelicans that catch small fishes in its lagoon are also seen resting on the shore.  Having been undisturbed by human beings, these creatures are quite tame.  In fact, when small stones are thrown in their direction they do not even move. On the left, toward the navigable lagoon are more reeds; the other side, that is, the southwestern shore being, however, bare.  In the marshes the tall reeds intertwining with the trees make an almost impenetrable thicket somewhat resembling the tropics transplanted into a modern setting.  The silence, the natural wildness, belie description.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n26-1">Mission San Gabriel had at one time been one of the richest and largest of the California Missions, its lands extending from the ocean to the mountains.  It was visited by the majority of travellers who came to Los Angeles.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Despite the presence of the lagoon, the air on the ranch is not harmful and is even said, in winter, to be mild and balmy.  Having visited for a time with the sunburned inhabitants on this remote ranch--being Californians they were typically amiable and hospitable--we departed reluctantly from this enchanting spot so reminiscent of early California.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>171</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>149</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 27</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>THE FERTILE SAN GABRIEL VALLEY</p><P>EVERY traveller who comes to Los Angeles should not fail to visit the old mission of San Gabriel and its magnificent orchards.  Lying between the foothills that define one side of the Los Angeles Valley and the main chain of the Sierra Madre is a series of valleys known as the San Fernando, El Monte, San Gabriel, and Chino Valleys.<ANCHOR ID="n27-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: These which stretch from east to west for some 45 miles have an average width of 4 1/2 miles and contain about 130,000 acres, or some 200 square miles.  This land may be classified as follows: 45,000 acres of pasturage; 40,000 acres of vineyard and semi-tropical fruit land; and 45,000 acres of fruit and wheat lands.  Wheat, since these valleys lie inland from the coast, flourishes in this location.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-1"><HI REND="italics">Rancho de la Laguana</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Of these, the first to be considered is the San Gabriel Valley. The fruit-bearing lands of the San Gabriel Valley, which are celebrated far and wide, stretch from southwest to northeast, being about 2 miles wide and 10 in length.  On the western end these merge into low-lying hills; toward the east for a distance of some twenty miles stretches a level area.  On the north end of this valley tower the somber Sierras. The soil here is varied in consisting of grayish, porous, sandy, gravel-surfaced soil and a black, sticky clay.  Both kinds of soil are, however, equally productive if given ample water.</p><P>The trip out to San Gabriel can be made either by the Los Angeles and Independence Railway, or by carriage.  The latter is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>172</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>150</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>151</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>152</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>153</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:have fine estates as well.<ANCHOR ID="n27-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In addition are many small landholders who, having acquired some 40 to 100 acres, have developed on these fine houses and flourishing orchards.  This country, in fact, has had an amazing development.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-2">These were: L. J. Rose of Sunny Slope, near San Gabriel Mission, who produced famous wines and brandies and for whom the town of Rosemead is named; Benjamin D. Wilson, of Lake Vineyard; Edward J. C. Kewen, who owned 450 acres near the mission mill including land where the Huntington Hotel now stands; John De Barth Shorb of Philadelphia, who owned the property on which the town of Shorb now stands; Colonel James B. Winston, who came to California in 1852, and who was one of the prominent local physicians; Dr. Thomas White; L. H. Titus, whose vineyard was near San Gabriel close to that of Rose; and Judge Volney E. Howard, who settled at San Gabriel in the late fifties near the estate of E. J. C. Kewen.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Of several of the more important estates a brief description will now be given beginning with the estate of Mr. Rose, President of the Southern District Agricultural Society.  This is reached by leaving the mission and crossing a sun-baked plain where the Sierra looms up in the distance.  Here and there are passed frame or adobe houses surrounded by various plants such as tobacco.  Then, following a road leading past several live-oaks and over a gully, the traveller finally emerges on a plain planted out to grain, maize, and tobacco.  After passing a large vineyard, Mr. Rose's estate, "Sunny Slope," is reached.  The approach to the house is toward the east through an avenue almost a mile long, that is formed by a double row of strong nine-year-old orange trees.  At the end, on a small knoll, stands the house surrounded by verandas and shaded by great peppers, sturdy eucalypti,--one of these is 7 feet in circumference and 90 feet high--figs, almonds, and walnut trees.  Mr. Rose acquired this property about 16 years ago; then, to secure water rights, increased his holdings by purchasing about 2,000 acres of the Santa Anita Ranch.  This purchase enabled him to create within this length of time one of the finest places in the country.  In so doing he found that the sandy soil and the fact that a constant stream of water flows here throughout the summer season were of invaluable assistance. Over a hundred years ago the missionaries built the dam, now on his property, through the narrow part of the brook, and brought water through an outlet ditch over into a reservoir which is only a short distance above Mr. Rose's house.  Although this is no longer standing the dam has been preserved and is now used by Mr. Rose, who brings the water through a main channel up to the knoll where the house stands, distributing it from this main point in every direction.  To <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>176</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>154</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>155</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:has an ample supply of water including artesian wells.  Formerly the property of Messrs.  Newmark and Rose, it has been recently purchased by E. J. Baldwin who has introduced any number of improvements.<ANCHOR ID="n27-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-3">E. J. Baldwin purchased the Santa Anita Rancho in 1875, subsequently making it one of the most noted stock-farms in the State.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>After leaving Mr. Rose's stables the route leads past many thriving orange-groves.  On both sides of the road young groves have been planted out in the porous soil.  Frequently between rows of trees corn is seen growing.  Many of these fields are bordered by rows of eucalypti.  Flying in and out of these Spanish gardens are often seen blue-winged crows and gleaming black birds.</p><P>From a hill crowned by evergreen oaks where Mr. De Barth Shorb lives may be had a splendid view off across the vast valley dotted with the vineyards, orange groves, and apple, pomegranate, nut, and other fruit-trees that thrive so abundantly in this land of promise. After passing a vast vineyard and orange-grove, the flourishing ranch owned by Mr. Wilson, known as Lake Vineyard, is reached on the right side of the road at the western end of the vineyard and orchard.<ANCHOR ID="n27-4">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Here, thriving cacti, figs, strong orange trees, a small house, and a giant oak are all surrounded by a high fence.  The lower half of the house is built of brick, the upper of wood.  Near the house grow several superfine specimens of orange-trees, pomegranates, and figs.  Particularly ornamental is a graceful weeping-willow planted in the foreground.  From his property an extensive view unfolds.  Not far away is a small stream, another large orange grove, and a pond formed by waters diverted from the brook where <HI REND="italics">Fulicas</HI>
205.sgm: float among the many weeds.<ANCHOR ID="n27-5">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Undulating hills, and occasional clumps of trees covered, now and then, by the heavy foliage of grapevines are in evidence.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-4">Benjamin D. Wilson came to California from Tennessee in 1871 and purchased what later was known as Lake Vineyard, in the San Gabriel Valley</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-5"><HI REND="italics">Fulicas</HI>
205.sgm:<P>A section of Lake Vineyard has passed into the hands of DeBarth Shorb, Mr. Wilson's son-in-law, and is known as Mount Vineyard.  On this the aforementioned house was built.  Mr. Shorb's property is watered by an irrigation system 3 miles long where drains of hollow tile were used. Lake Vineyard has 1,300 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>178</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>156</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:acres and Mount Vineyard 500 acres.  The grape harvest of 1873 yielded 75,000 gallons of wine and, in addition, 5,000 gallons of brandy.  Both groves produced this year more than 1,000,000 oranges and 75,000 lemons, as well as limes, olives, and walnuts.</p><P>Directly west of Lake Vineyard, on the mesa about 200 feet above the valley proper, lies Oak Knoll, an estate with a large vineyard which is irrigated by 3,000 feet of four-inch pipes equipped with hydrants at convenient intervals; 1,500 acres of this ranch are planted out to grain; large herds of cattle and fine horses are also raised.</p><P>Adjoining this is Colonel E. J. C. Kewen's garden, "The Mill," ( <HI REND="italics">Rancho del Molino</HI>
205.sgm: ), a miniature paradise where the soil is so rich that even without water it bears extraordinarily abundant crops. The house, which was once an old storehouse and granary erected 100 years ago by the Franciscans of Mission San Gabriel, has walls 5 feet thick.<ANCHOR ID="n27-6">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Its water supply is ample, a brook flowing from an upper well crossing the garden near the house.  In addition to this there is a second well on the property.  The garden is very delightful with its splendid weeping willows, its nut-trees--pecans, black walnuts, hickories--and its bananas.  Over the latter, humming-birds hover constantly and build their nests in the shelter of its broad leaves.  I made some sketches of these birds and their nests as they fluttered like so many butterflies about the bananas, these sketches being reproduced on the cover of this volume.  Below this miniature park is an orange orchard of superb eleven-year-old trees, as well as limes and lemons which are planted as far down as the pond.  On this estate, which contains 450 acres, are also raised some fine grapevines.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-6"><HI REND="italics">El Molino</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Out in the country beyond Kewen's orchard, after passing any number of babbling brooks, extensive vineyards and, now and again, and a frame or adobe house, General George Stoneman's estate, with its small duck pond and little house shaded by great green oaks is finally reached.<ANCHOR ID="n27-7">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-7">This was General George H. Stoneman.</NOTE>
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205.sgm:<P>Twenty-eight years ago General Stoneman, who was at that time a lieutenant, came out to California and camped on the site of his present estate.  About 5 years ago he purchased 500 acres at $50 an acre, sold 100 acres for $100, and from the balance created the splendid estate which is called <HI REND="italics">Los Robles</HI>
205.sgm:.  From wells and streams--the General intends later to breed trout--a daily flow of 800,000 gallons of water is secured. On his estate are 100,000 grapevines from which, in 1873, were made 20,000 gallons each of wine and brandy.  Since all his equipment is new, the General has installed a modern wine-press and a distillery run by steam for making brandy, which is arranged in a series of levels so that the wine from the time it leaves the fermenting and crushing machines down to the time it is made ready for market, travels in a series of falls which materially lessen the labor in its preparation.  The General has 100 orange and nut trees in full bearing, figs, pomegranates, olives, pears, peaches, plums, cherries, nectarines, almonds, apricots and lemons, as well as several kinds of bananas that have been introduced, and an excellent vegetable garden.  Especially famous is his rose-tree that has a trunk of 15 inches thick, a height of 8 feet, and a crown which has reached up 20 feet into the air while its branches almost touch the ground.</p><P>A little valley lies beyond his property, a valley thick with alders.  Here, as throughout this land wherever water is present, vegetation flourishes.  Without it, the country is parched and lifeless. Occasionally, grounds dotted with fine oaks and fenced with pickets are passed along the road.  This, all in all, is a pleasant, thriving, rolling country.  A superb view of the mountains may be had on the return trip, from a gap made by the channel of the Los Angeles River, which presents a picture of tranquil, classic beauty.  Further along, on the left, is passed a wooded hill where squirrels scamper under live oaks and a valley where oaks and alders intertwined with wild grapes grow in bacchic abandon.  Upon descending to the bed of the Arroyo Seco, such wild plants <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>180</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:as the slender <HI REND="italics">cereus</HI>
205.sgm: and other indigenous species are encountered and, when crossing over the dry river bottom, the wild pointed-leaf melon.<ANCHOR ID="n27-8">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: On the left, green hummocks are passed and after reaching the valley of the Arroyo Seco, Los Angeles with its lofty church towers again looms up in the distance. The Arroyo Seco having been left behind, the road now threads past scattered houses to a point where, under the shade of the alders, a kind of pavilion suitable for picnics, where refreshments are served, has been erected.  This is called Sycamore Grove Restaurant.  In front of the pavilion is an arbor and benches and an octagonal-shaped platform with bleachers below.  This spot is a prime favorite for picnics.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-8"><HI REND="italics">Cereus</HI>
205.sgm:<P>Bordering on the Arroyo Seco is an important settlement promoted by the San Gabriel Orange Association and known as the Indiana Colony.<ANCHOR ID="n27-9">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This association controls about 4,000 acres of excellent land in the southwestern part of the San Pasqual Ranch.  Their property is adjoined on the south by a fine grove and on the west by the Arroyo Seco, and has been divided into 100 holdings, of 15 acres each. Through the center runs Park Avenue, where miniature parks have been laid. On its eastern side is Fair Oaks Avenue.  On the west end is being built a street that winds in and out among evergreen oaks and alders along the Arroyo Seco.  Near this road are many springs, although what water is used for irrigation and domestic purposes is largely supplied by a reservoir that holds 1,500,000 gallons.  Three miles north of this reservoir the <HI REND="italics">Toma</HI>
205.sgm:, where the water flows out of granite formation, is brought by a ditch into a basin and from there piped down to the reservoir.  The reservoir and pipes have cost $20,000, the former being located at least 60 feet above the highest point in the company's land.  This property, which was purchased at prices ranging from $8 to $66 an acre, has a great future.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n27-9">The Indiana Colony.  A group of colonists from Indiana formed an association and purchased, in 1873, about four thousand acres of the San Pasqual Rancho.  This was divided into tracts suitable for orange groves, varying in size from fifteen to sixty acres.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>What can be accomplished even without water is amply shown in "Fair Oaks," the estate of Benjamin J. Eaton, 12 miles northeast <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>181</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>159</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:of Los Angeles, where 18,000 grapevines which have never been watered are growing.  "Fair Oaks" is a charming spot surrounded by a dozen splendid live oaks and commands a magnificent view off across the country.  The owner, who had originally only $40 and about 200 acres of land, within 9 years was offered $25,000 for his holdings.</p><P>After leaving Sycamore Grove restaurant the valley widens.  In the neighboring gulches grow many alders and both kinds of prickly pear, while on the right thickly overgrown with alders, is the broad gravel-strewn bed of the Los Angeles River.  From this point a view off across the entire valley bounded by undulated hills is visible.  A short distance beyond, a brick-kiln is passed.  Next is reached Downey Avenue in East Los Angeles.  This is served by a tramway which, as previously remarked, crosses the broad, almost waterless bed of the Los Angeles River on a long wooden bridge.  After passing on the right the railway that comes in from the San Fernando Valley and on the left some handsome palms, the city is reached by coming in on Alameda Street.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>182</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 28</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>THE MOST IMPORTANT SETTLEMENTS IN THE COUNTY</p><P>SAN FERNANDO is among the most important settlements in the county. This is a settlement that has grown up around the seventeenth mission established which was named for King Ferdinand III of Castile.  Funds to erect this mission were supplied by King Carlos IX of Spain and the Marques of Branciforte.<ANCHOR ID="n28-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: To Indians this place was known as <HI REND="italics">Achois Comihabit</HI>
205.sgm:.  The location is healthful and, since it is only 20 miles in from the sea, the heat is tempered by breezes.  The country, furthermore, has an ample supply of artesian well water, the canyons and banks of brooks contain large numbers of oaks, alders, and cedars, while only a short distance up in the mountains are vast areas of white pine, spruce, and redwood.  When the mission was in its prime, it had many outlying buildings which are now, however, fast falling into ruins.  The central building, used by the fathers and their servants is still standing and is in an excellent state of preservation.  At the present it is being used by General Andre&acute;s Pico for a dwelling.<ANCHOR ID="n28-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: This building is two stories high and has heavy walls 4 feet thick.  It is 300 feet long, 80 feet broad, and is designed with arches, columns, and long corridors.  It contains within a large reception hall and a stately church 150 feet long where, once a month, services are conducted by a priest from Los Angeles.  The mission gardens, now belonging to the heirs of Don Andre&acute;s Pico and Don Eulogio de Ce&acute;lis, are very beautiful.  Adjoining these are some 32 acres planted to 300 olive trees as well as many grapes, figs, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>184</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:peaches, pears, almonds, and pomegranates.  The gardens are watered by irrigation ditches that were built some 70 years ago.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-1">Mission San Fernando was founded in 1798.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-2">San Fernando Mission was leased to General Andre&acute;s Pico and Juan Manso in 1845 for $1,120.  Pico later made his home here in the former abode of the fathers.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The San Fernando Valley, or ranch as it is more usually called, contains 121,542 acres.  When the missions were secularized it became the property of the Mexican government coming under the control of the governors of California.  To secure revenues to ward off encroachment on the part of the Americans, Governor Pico sold it to Don Eulogio De Ce&acute;lis for $14,000.  Ten years later, however, Don Andre&acute;s Pico bought half of it, including gardens and half the buildings, for $15,000.  A few years ago, his half was purchased by several men acting under the name of the San Fernando Farm Homestead Association, formed by a certain Senator Maclay.  This half of the 59,550 acres was sold for $115,000 and did not include the gardens and 1,000 acres adjoining it, which were kept by Don Andre&acute;s Pico.</p><P>Mention should be made at this point of the Encino Ranch of 4,400 acres, 3,300 of which, belonging to Eugene Garnier, were formerly part of the San Fernando Ranch.  Garnier is a sheep-grower on an extensive scale.  In the past few years he has spent $18,000 for French merinos and as much as $700 for one single ram.  He also purchased 60 French merinos at $200 apiece.  At the state fair in 1867, he bought 4 French merinos for $1600 and 4 Spanish merinos for $800.  Mr. Garnier employs a steady force of 20 men.  During the season, these men shear from 35 to 50 sheep a day.  He is reputed to raise the best wool in the county. For his workers there has been built a two-story boarding and lodging house.  This has a fine well in conjunction where the cattle are watered.</p><P>San Fernando is noted not only as a wealthy wool and petroleum center, but also because of its tunnel, which has made possible direct rail connection between Los Angeles and the network of American railways, and which lies some 28 miles beyond Los Angeles.  This tunnel was not cut through one main mountain but traverses a series of hills and valleys. It extends from north to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>185</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:south for a distance of 6,964 feet, its deepest point being 600 feet from the summit of the mountains.  The excavation is in the form of a trapezoid, the upper part which forms the largest side of it, being topped by an arch.  The breadth of the bow is 14 feet; its height at the sides up to where the arch begins is 16 feet; the height to the far end of the arch is 21 feet.  The sides and upper portion are supported by heavy timbers which, as a matter of fact, are nothing but Oregon cedar.  Directly on the ground, which is composed of blue clay, sand, and crushed rock, loose planks have been placed.  The southern approach has a slope of 2 feet in every hundred until it reaches the mouth of the tunnel where the ascent toward the north of 1.10 feet in every hundred begins.  At its northern end is reached its maximum elevation; from this point it descends with a declivity similar to that on its southern approach.  Work was begun simultaneously at both ends of the tunnel, and while this was progressing considerable water was encountered.  In constructing the tunnel a crew of 4,500 men were employed, the white men receiving $2.60 and board, the Chinese $1.00 daily.  Mr. Frates was made the general manager, Mr. J. B. Harris being the superintendent in charge of construction.  The total cost approximates two million dollars.</p><P>Duarte, a new settlement of 2,500 acres about 15 miles from Los Angeles, has had an extraordinarily rapid development.  Its boundaries run from where it skirts the foothills on its northern end to where it slopes gently down toward the south, there merging finally into El Monte.<ANCHOR ID="n28-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Land there, most of the soil being a rich, sandy clay, is now worth $30 to $40.  Owing to its sunny location, Duarte, like San Gabriel, is well adapted to raising fruits.  As early as 1874 a school was established here.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-3">Duarte was founded in 1851 by Henry Dalton, who opened a subdivision.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>East of Duarte lies the Azusa Ranch, a place recently thrown open to agriculture.<ANCHOR ID="n28-4">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-4">The Azusa Ranch of nine or ten thousand acres was owned by Henry Dalton.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>El Monte, one of the oldest American settlements, is located 12 miles east of Los Angeles on the Southern Pacific Railway.<ANCHOR ID="n28-5">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: It is <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>186</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:an attractive, pleasant place and has a Masonic Lodge and a good school.  Not far from El Monte, in the direction of San Gabriel, is the Episcopal Church of Our Saviour built at a cost of $4,000 by Mrs. Frances Jones Vinton.  Its rector is the Reverend Mr. Messenger.  The soil here is naturally damp since, as already shown, the San Gabriel River flows underground, thus eliminating the need of irrigation.  El Monte comprises about 10,000 acres, which are rented out in small tracts for farming.  Many of these, however, are being bought outright.  Land costs from $25 to $75 an acre, and, where cultivated, considerably more.  Willows and cotton-woods frequently encircle the fields, which are admirably adapted to Indian corn which, in this locality, yields from 75 to 125 bushels an acre.  Potatoes that often yield from 8,000 to 30,000 pounds an acre; the beets, and other tubers thrive here.  The raising of hogs is one of the main occupations, lard being an important commodity, though it is largely consumed locally, since many rich farmers do not raise enough for their own use.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-5">El Monte, so named from the thick willow forests nearby. It was the oldest American settlement in California, being notable as the end of the overland trail.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Downey City, on the Anaheim Branch of the Southern Pacific Railway, 12 miles beyond Los Angeles, is the loading point for a large part of the Los Nietos district, 150,000 bushels of grain being shipped out annually.<ANCHOR ID="n28-6">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Several new buildings have already been erected, notably the Baptist Church, while the district supports two public schools and the Downey City Institute, a growing institution.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-6">In 1865, John G. Downey subdivided a section of his rancho, Santa Gertrudis, and created the town of Downey.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The district of Los Nietos spreads over 8 or 10 square miles.  Six years ago it had only a few adobe houses; now, on the contrary, it controls 7 public school districts, all having good school-houses, erected at a cost of from $1,000 to $4,000 apiece.<ANCHOR ID="n28-7">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: The postoffice is in Downey City.  Prices of land vary from $80 to $100 an acre, landowners, as a general thing, owning from 10 to 40 acres of land.  The Los Nietos country that begins near El Monte and extends south for 13 miles along the San Gabriel River is a veritable garden spot, being largely rolling hills amply watered by the San <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>187</CONTROLPGNO>
205.sgm:<PRINTPGNO>165</PRINTPGNO>
205.sgm:Gabriel River.  The soil at Downey City is a rich, sandy fertile clay and naturally so moist that it requires no irrigation.  The region has been settled for many years.  Certain sections that have been under cultivation regularly for a century yield harvests as abundant as in their first years.  The main product is Indian corn, although barley, rye, and potatoes are in high favor.  The yield of Indian corn is from 50 to 125 bushels, 75 bushels being the average.  In dry years it has sold as high as $2 a hundredweight.  On the other hand, under exceptional conditions it has sunk as low as $.50.  Though oats grow to be 7 feet high, nevertheless, the fact that barley is preferable for feeding livestock has retarded its cultivation.  Barley frequently yields 75 bushels an acre.  Quantities of beets are also raised for cattle, many of them weighing as much as 120 pounds and yielding from 125 to 150 tons an acre.  Castor-beans, moreover, are extensively raised since the yield is high.  Tobacco is also grown; the production last year was 40,000 pounds.  From one acre as much as 3,000 pounds have been cut.  Two harvests, furthermore, are assured annually, the average harvest being around 2,000 pounds.  The fruit industry is also progressing favorably, fine oranges, peaches, pears, apricots, and nuts having been raised.  Such fine land is naturally expensive, and has a valuation of $60 to $150 an acre.  One hundred and forty acres have been subdivided into lots 70 x 145 feet and are being sold at prices ranging from $100 to $150 an acre. Hog-raising is one of the flourishing industries.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-7">Los Nietos was named for the Nietos family to whom, in 1784, was granted the extensive rancho of this name.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Spadra, lying between two rows of hills some 25 miles beyond Los Angeles, is at present the terminus of the Southern Pacific Railway.<ANCHOR ID="n28-8">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: The settlement was so named by Uncle Billy Rubottom in honor of Spadra Bluffs on the Arkansas River where he had spent many happy days and where he lost his home through an adverse decision of the courts several years ago.  At that time he moved out here, bought 200 acres, and opened an inn which is still in operation. Around his inn a settlement has come into existence.  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>188</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:This valley is extremely fertile and has ample water.  About two miles back of Spadra is the upper end of a long 15-mile valley comprising about 100,000 acres of excellent land that lies between the Sierra Madre and the coast range, from there extending over into San Bernardino County.  In the western corner of this valley is the rapidly-growing settlement of Pomona which is within the the boundaries of Los Angeles County.  Pomona covers in the neighborhood of 10,000 acres of land and is watered by fine mountain springs.  On its northwest corner at the foot of the mountains is the small colony known as <HI REND="italics">San Jose&acute;</HI>
205.sgm: and, nearby, <HI REND="italics">San Jose&acute; Rancho</HI>
205.sgm:, with its 24,000 acres of which Louis Philipps and H. Dalton own 8,000 acres each, the heirs of Ignacio Palomares holding the balance.  This, which consists of alternate stretches of hills and flat lands, at the present time is being used exclusively for raising cattle; however, if divided, it would prove well-adapted to agriculture, especially fruit growing.  On the ranch several schools are located.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-8">Spadra.  Of importance as a railroad terminal.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>The Santa Ana Valley embraces a long series of thriving settlements, the result primarily of its fertile soil and abundant water.  In the canyon of the Santa Ana River 12 miles above Anaheim is a natural rock dam from which all irrigation ditches should properly start.  A ditch used by District Number 1 has already been dug through the firm red clay on the north bank of the river.  At the point where these ditches leave the canyon they are approximately 100 feet above the bed of the river and this abrupt fall should afford many opportunities for industrial development.  By these ditches practically the entire tract of 15,000 acres lying north, northeast, and northwest of the city is watered. District Number 1 operates under the county irrigation laws; on the south and east another district of equal size has been created.  At the present, ditch No. 1 is being extended to include two districts near Anaheim; when this is completed, it will water, including the 2,000 acres served by the old Anaheim ditch, a valley of 30,000 <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>189</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:acres.  Adjoining it are 15,000 acres from which still another district might be formed by constructing a ditch.  South and west of these lands for some 30 miles a broad area extends toward the northeast and southwest that has an average width of 5 and 6 miles.  Here artesian wells can be bored at any point--there are now more than 200 of them on production--which irrigate, since they vary materially in output, from 40 to 300 acres.  Generally speaking, it is estimated that one or two wells are adequate for 100 acres, hence irrigation requires only a slight outlay.  Considerable land is still available at $25 to $40 an acre.</p><P>Along the sea for 12 miles and running inland for 3 or 4 miles runs a broad stretch of <HI REND="italics">cie&acute;naga</HI>
205.sgm: land which affords excellent green pasturage, being covered with wild alfalfa.<ANCHOR ID="n28-9">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: An acre of such pasture-land will support from one to five cows year after year.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-9"><HI REND="italics">Cie&acute;naga</HI>
205.sgm:: low, or marshy lands; the form <HI REND="italics">cie&acute;nega</HI>
205.sgm:<P>There are thus, as has been shown, many kinds of soil suited to a wide variety of products.  Since most of these have ample water this is an ideal land for the agriculturalists, being suitable for maize, barley, alfalfa, hops, potatoes, flax, castor-beans, all kinds of vegetables, and many fruits, especially apples, pears, and berries.  The valley slopes up from the southern coast at the rate of some 13 feet a mile.  There are, however, many high places, some rising from 150 to 300 above sea-level. If watered, these lands prove quite productive though not to so large an extent as the former, being more suitable for wine-grapes and semi-tropical plants which do not require so much coolness and moisture, especially oranges, limes, lemons, bananas, pineapples, pomegranates, and guavas.  These same high lands are, moreover, frequently used for raising such fruits as peaches, apples, pears, and various berries.</p><P>Of all these settlements, Anaheim is one of the most important as well as one of the most successful colonies in California.  It lies 27 miles by rail from Los Angeles, and 8 miles in from the sea where it has a landing-place on the open coast some 3 miles from the Santa Ana River 150 feet above sea-level.  Only a short time <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>190</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:secured with comparatively little cultivation. Indian corn, barley, alfalfa, oats, rye, wheat, beans, and potatoes are the chief products, while considerable cheese is also made.  Under construction at the present is a 16-mile irrigation ditch.</p><P>In conclusion reference should be made to the most southerly settlement in the county, Mission San Juan Capistrano, lying 33 miles south of Anaheim, where, in 1776, Father Gorgonio founded San Juan Capistrano--the seventh in the chain of missions.  The mission church, however, was destroyed in 1812 by an earthquake in which 47 lives were lost.  Until 1834, the year when the Mexican Congress began its persecutions against them, the missions flourished.  In 1830 it owned several immense tracts of lands, where 40,000 cattle, 70,000 sheep, 5,000 horses and many mules and hogs grazed.  Since its foundation, 4,790 natives had been converted and baptized.  This mission, which, incidentally, was one of the largest, supported a soap-factory, made clothes and shoes, and operated a wood-working department and a blacksmith's shop.  The gardens and lands contained 80 acres, in the former being 400 venerable olive trees.  Many ancient pear trees, the favorite fruit of the fathers, are now standing but the vineyards have completely vanished.  The San Juan River, flowing as it did throughout the year, proved a boon to irrigation.  Some few months prior to the Mexican War, 80 acres of olives and other fruits were sold to Don Juan Forster for $800; these are now worth $80,000.<ANCHOR ID="n28-10">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: In 1853 the church was again rebuilt of adobe; this new structure, however, has again fallen into ruins.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n28-10">In December, 1845, this great mission was sold for $710 to McKinley and Foster.  Foster retained possession and lived there for 20 years.</NOTE>
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205.sgm:<illus entity="a205-0017" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>OLD SANTA MONICA</p></CAPTION>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 29</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>THE COUNTRY IN AND ABOUT SANTA MONICA</p><P>SANTA MONICA, which lies some 17 miles west of Los Angeles, is equally accessible by rail or carriage.  In summer, stages make the trip regularly for the benefit of sea-bathers.  When the trip is made by carriage the road leads first past beautiful gardens and pleasant houses, over a stream, and across the railroad tracks to where a fine view may be had of the picturesque city of Los Angeles rising partly on the plains and partly on the rolling foot-hills with its background of impressive mountains.  Out in the western end of Los Angeles near the windmill adjoining the Stewart House with its commodious verandas, the main highway which is lined on both sides with quantities of castor-bean plants is reached.  From here a road forking to the left leads to the race track or Agricultural Park; the road on the traverses orange groves, flourishing vineyards, and fields of maize, again affording magnificent views of the mountains and the coastal hills sloping down toward Santa Monica. On the side of the road runs a wooden irrigating trough.  After continuing past vineyards, windmills, young walnut trees, well-watered fields, and orchards, the road finally emerges on a pleasant plain bounded by an elongated hill stretching off into the distance.  Scattered houses equipped with Holloday's patent mills and surrounded by small gardens usually enclosed with hedges of eucalypti dot the landscape. Passing a small gulch and continuing on toward the right a small house is visible rising on a slight elevation that overlooks the gently rolling plains <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>198</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:stretching off toward the mountains.  By turning off in the direction of the hills, on the right at the foot of the mountain chain, appears Major Hancock's Asphalt Works, distinguishable by its smoke.<ANCHOR ID="n29-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm:</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n29-1">Major Hancock's asphalt works were located near La Brea Pit adjoining Wilshire Boulevard.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>From this point the road swings on past a plain of adobe from which are afforded glimpses of a fertile valley, lying like a green carpet in a withered plain at the foot of the hills.  This is what is known as the <HI REND="italics">Cie&acute;naga</HI>
205.sgm:, a marshy stretch of land 10 miles long and 3 miles wide.  Since the land is constantly damp, the grass is green throughout the year, making excellent pasturage and, in certain areas, being suitable for raising grain and vegetables.</p><P>On the west, La Ballona Ranch, which is similar in area, adjoins this stretch.  Though this land is fairly high, it has ample water, is extremely fertile, and produces excellent fruits, vegetables, and grain. Inasmuch as it is inhabited by Californians, a good school and a railway station have been established, the latter being named for Palomares, a prominent citizen in Los Angeles.  On this ranch is a dilapidated old house where the robber Vasquez was captured.</p><P>Continuing on down the road, on the left stand a wooden house, clumps of prickly pears, and fields where sheep and cattle graze; on the right is a gully where ducks paddle in a tiny brook.  Fragrant meadows filled with grazing horses, scattered houses, and a morass thick with marsh reed are passed until, at the foot of the hills, the Eight-mile House, or Halfway-Station, is reached.  Here the hills on the left terminate.  Adjoining the house is a well of good spring water, a little pump, and a pepper tree.  The man living here is an Austrian from Zindis, and in his parlor hangs a portrait of the Emperor.  "I once," said the good man, while he attempted to wipe the dust off the lithograph with his rough hands, "gave a Slovakian five thalers for it."  Thus even out in the prairies, patriotism and devotion to the Emperor were enshrined in this humble home by a man who had left Austria at the age of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>199</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:in fact, remain two or three months at the beach, for the climate does not vary and storms are of rare occurrence.  On Sundays the stages come out, often carrying from 600 to 800 visitors from Los Angeles, whose citizens throng to this popular resort.</p><P>The return trip from Old Santa Monica to Los Angeles is made by way of a side valley that leads past thriving alders and well-watered lowlands where maize is sprouting.  Where the road begins to ascend by easy stages onto a plateau there is seen a small brick house with a shingled roof surounded by a grill-like thicket fence interlaced with leather thongs.  From here the road continues on across a plain of adobe soil where some small adobe houses have been erected, until it reaches New Santa Monica.  Then, crossing a dry plain, it winds on toward Los Angeles. Far off in the distance looms Santa Catalina Island silhouetted in graceful outline against the hazy horizon.  Finally, in short time, the road joins the main highway leading to Los Angeles.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>204</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>CHAPTER 30</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>WILMINGTON</p><P>ALTHOUGH Santa Monica is the closest, Wilmington, since it has the better shipping facilities, is the real port for Los Angeles.  Wilmington lies 23 miles south of Los Angeles at the end of the Wilmington branch of the Southern Pacific Railway.  After departing from the Southern Pacific station in Los Angeles, the train passes first through flourishing fruit orchards, fine orange groves, vineyards, willow hedges, walnut groves, and masses of castor-bean plants growing along the tracks.  On the left tower the majestic mountains.  Once the orchards are passed the country becomes flat and level, being varied only by occasional acacias and pepper trees.  Then Florence, with its small wooden railway station, is reached on the right.  The settlement of Florence is virtually a suburb of Los Angeles which is only about 5 miles distant.  The soil in this district is fertile in the extreme and for a period of several years harvests have matured without irrigation.  Already about 100 farms have been located in this vicinity.  Artesian water is found locally at a depth varying from 70 to 150 feet.  Every kind of grain, with the single exception of wheat, is under cultivation.  Activities here center mainly in the fruit and wine industries.</p><P>Shortly after the train leaves Florence flat plains used both for grain fields and pastures are passed; here and there this is varied by an occasional home, fields of corn, clumps of willows, and a small pond which is spanned by a wooden bridge.  Finally Compton, a small settlement 12 miles from Los Angeles, whose abundance of artesian wells assures crops throughout the year, is approached.<ANCHOR ID="n30-1">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Near Compton good wells can be brought in from <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>206</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:shallow depths, 70 of these, each of which irrigates from 40 to 200 acres, having already been drilled. The soil is a rich sandy clay suitable for raising every variety of grain and fruit.  Land here commands a good price, selling for $50 to $100 an acre.  Compton now has about 150 ranches.  Further out in the country, to the left of the track, the number of mills increases.  Next is seen the broken range of mountains visible off toward the coast known as the Palos Verdes and, on the right, Drum Barracks, where the soldiers were mustered out during the last American war.  Then come small bridges leading over a river-like lagoon thick with reeds where, during the winter season, countless ducks congregate.  On beyond, located on high ground and surrounded by reeds, Wilmington Lake comes into view.  From this point, since the land is comparatively flat, the ocean is plainly visible.  On the right General Banning's house and what was formerly the military hospital now appear.<ANCHOR ID="n30-2">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Then come more small swamps where concealed behind the tall reeds are some vacant grazing lands.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-1">Compton was laid out in 1869; it was named for the Reverend G. D. Compton, an early settler.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-2">This was the General Phineas Banning home near Anaheim Boulevard in Wilmington.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Wilmington, with its terminus costing $40,000, is at the end of the line and is now the principal port in the county.  No doubt it will have a remarkable growth when it is made, as it eventually will be, the end of the Texas and Pacific Railroad.  In the early days San Pedro with its few wooden houses, was the principal port until, in 1858, a small steamer was put into service to transport freight from ships lying at anchor in the San Pedro roadstead four miles away through the inner channels to Wilmington.  This gave a new impetus to the latter port, an impetus which was further enhanced by the building of the railroad. At the present date it has about 1,000 inhabitants.  The town consists of a number of scattered wooden houses, a Catholic church which was established when the town was founded, a Methodist church, a Masonic and an Odd Fellows' hall.  There is also Wilson College, which was founded by D. B. Wilson, who donated 10 acres of land and two buildings, one which contains classrooms and a library and the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>207</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:other a dormitory.<ANCHOR ID="n30-3">*</ANCHOR>
205.sgm: Wilmington, though built on low ground that slopes down toward the sea, commands an attractive view out over the lagoons and a view of the harbor, with its shipping, to the distant island of Catalina and toward the eastern ranges of San Juan and Santiago, crowned by the lofty peaks of San Jacinto and San Bernardino with Cucamonga, the highest peak, frequently snow-capped, in the background.  In and about Wilmington stretch some 2,400 acres of flat land, while an additional strip unsuitable for cultivation extends diagonally from northwest to southeast.  On this land all kinds of grains and semi-tropical fruits flourish, a first harvest even being raised without irrigation and, at times, a second being similarly successful.  An inexhaustible supply of water is found at a depth of 5 to 28 feet, which is pure and healthful.  Almost every house has its own well and frequently windmills are used in conjunction with reservoirs for irrigating.  San Pedro Bay is rich in fish, and the lagoons at Wilmington might properly be utilized for raising oysters.</p><NOTE ANCHOR.IDS="n30-3">In 1873, B. D. Wilson purchased from the government for less than $10,000 Drum Barracks, which had cost over $1,000,000 to erect; this then became Wilson College.</NOTE>
205.sgm:<P>Wilmington is already important as a commercial center, especially for wool.  The large warehouse standing here was erected by the government during the war.  It belongs to E. M. MacDonald of Wilmington and J. E. Perkins of San Francisco and holds 2,000 bales of wool.  This is shipped out over the Panama line, which makes eastern connections.</p><P>In 1873, wool sent from Wilmington and Anaheim amounted to 10,000,000 pounds, but of this amount only a small proportion came from Anaheim.  The commercial importance of Wilmington is indicated by the fact that 400 ships, carrying from 75,000 to 100,000 tons of freight arrive and depart annually.</p><P>A brief survey of the harbor is now in order, but before entering into a discussion of its facilities, a short description will be given of what has been done here by the government.</p><P>The harbor of Wilmington consists, first of all, of a small bay, which is virtually nothing more than a slight dip in the coast that <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>208</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:it will be necessary either to extend the wharf out to this new harbor, which has a diameter of several hundred feet and lies about one and a half miles from the end of the wharf, or to dredge out a basin near the wharf which has only a small channel.  The objection raised to this first plan is the cost of its construction, and the constant ravages caused by worms that eat into the piles thus necessitating constant repairs.  For this reason dredging will probably prove preferable; estimates place the cost of dredging at a million and a half,--a small amount in comparison to its advantages.</p><P>The traveller who sails from Wilmington leaves from a pier that towers high above the aforementioned marsh lagoons thick with patches of marsh grass where, on the end, the wharf warehouses supported by piles have been erected.  Here stretches an other terminal projecting out for some considerable distance which is used by carriages.  To this wharf small ships carrying in the main Colorado pine, come to unload. The tender <HI REND="italics">Los Angeles</HI>
205.sgm: plies back and forth across the harbor carrying passengers out to the steamers anchored in the outer basin, where the peacefulness of the scene is broken only by the fluttering seagulls.  From this outer harbor is afforded a panoramic view of the mountains on the right, extensive plains on the left, and the high mountains of the cape sloping gently down to where they meet the palisades at the shore.  Gaily painted buoys and wooden pyramids mark the navigable waters and cause vessels departing to describe a great arc as they set their course.  On the left appear two small wooden huts and a fringe of sand dunes which separate the outer basin from the open ocean.  Finally, where the land meets the outer sea, a few warehouses built of wood and several high ladders may be seen.  Across from these, on the shore in a small cove in the palisades where the horizontal veined strata of soil are exposed to the elements, stand a few small houses.  On down the coast a few more are visible; ahead is the bar; toward the left rises Deadman's Island; opposite on the right where the palisades end are several <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>210</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:more small houses.  In front of these, steamers anchor in the inner basin, larger boats tying up at the outer moorings.  Among the last houses stands, on the right, a green inn surrounded with broad porches, that caters to sea-bathers.</p><P>Then Los Angeles, at last, vanishes in the distance, while the sun dropping into the ocean throws its shadows over the distant outline of Santa Catalina, and the mainland becomes gradually clouded in the grayness of dusk.  Tomorrow, however, the sun will rise once more--this glowing Californian Sun--and bring fresh life and vigor to this delightful land. But as our ship is already steaming away, by sunrise the Los Angeles coast will no longer be visible.  And so farewell, Flower of a Golden Land.</p><P>THE END</p></DIV>
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205.sgm:<P>NOTES AND INDEX</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>212</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<DIV TYPE="index"><HEAD>INDEX</HEAD>
205.sgm:<P>Agriculture: In Southern California, 47, 48, 59, 71, 72, 73, 82, 113, 114, 116, 167, 173, 183.<LB>Agricultural Park: 137, 175.<LB>Americans: Influx into Southern California, 35; type of houses of in Southern California, 45, 46; 136.<LB>Anaheim: 2, Table of temperature at, 3, 12, 13; meteorological report from, 15, 16, 17; Catholic Church at, 30; marble found at, 92; 104, 110, 166; early history of, 168, 169, 170, 171, 185.<LB>Arroyo Seco: 141, 157, 158.<LB>Artesia: 170.<LB>Azusa (Ranch): Site of Downey on, 52; 163.<LB>Bacon, F.: 152.<LB>Baker, Arcadia de: 125.<LB>Ballona: 129, 176.<LB>Banks: Farmers and Merchants, 99; Temple and Workman, 99; Commercial, 99, 127; Los Angeles County, 99.<LB>Banning (House): 184.<LB>Beaudry, Prudent: 129.<LB>Bees: Raised in Southern California, 79, 80.<LB>Bell, Horace:  <HI REND="italics">Reminiscences of a Ranger</HI>
205.sgm:, vii.<LB>Bixby, Jotham: Ranch at Cerritos, 84.<LB>Brands: Use of in Southern California, 87.<LB>Buenaventura: See <HI REND="italics">Ventura</HI>
205.sgm:.<LB><HI REND="italics">Cahinas</HI>
205.sgm: (Indian tribe): 40.<LB>Cajon Pass: Height of, 2.<LB>California, Southern: As a health resort, xiii, 20; opportunities in, xiii, 113, 114; counties of, 1; climate of, 3, 17; table of temperature in, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11; rainfall of, 18; trade winds of, 19; agriculture and fruit-raising in, 59-60, 70-75; gardens of, 75, 76; cattle industry in, 82.<LB>Californians: Characteristics of, ii, 33, 34, 35; food and dress of, 36; dances of, 37; intermarriage with Indians, 39; houses of, 45; crops raised by, 60, 61; cattle-raising by, 81, 85; rodeos of, 86, 87; horses of, 87; in Los Angeles, 126, 129, 137.<LB>Capistrano: See <HI REND="italics">San Juan Capistrano</HI>
205.sgm:.<LB>Carrillo, Carlos: 120.<LB>Catholics: In Southern California, 30, 128, 130, 132.<LB>Ce&acute;lis, Eulogio de: 161, 162.<LB>Childs, G. W.: 138.<LB>Chinese: Agitation against in Southern California, 41; traits of, 41, 42; immigration of, 42, 43, 125, 128; 136, 162.<LB>Churches: 131, 132, 135.<LB>City Gardens: 129.<LB>Compton: 2; imports and exports of, 103; 183, 184.<LB>Cone, Mary:  <HI REND="italics">Two Years in California</HI>
205.sgm:, xiv.<LB>Crocker, Charles F.: i.<LB>Crops: Season for, 48; irrigation of, 48; kinds grown in Southern California, 48, 49, 50, 59, 60, 61, 62; olive trees at Missions, 60, 61.<LB>Dalton, George: 138.<LB>Dalton, H.: 166.<LB>Downey, John G.: 130, 135.<LB>Downey City: 2, 103, 164, 165.<LB>Duarte: 52, 163.<LB>Earthquakes: 21.<LB>Eaton, Benjamin J.: 158.<LB><HI REND="italics">Eine Blume aus dem Goldenen Lande, oder Los Angeles</HI>
205.sgm:: English translation of, vii, viii.<LB>El Monte: 2, 50, 52, 53, 73, 106, 123, 163, 164.<LB><HI REND="italics">Express, The Los Angeles</HI>
205.sgm:: iii, 134.<LB>Fair Oaks: 158, 159.  See also <HI REND="italics">Eaton</HI>
205.sgm:.<LB>Fathers (Missionaries): Importance in agricultural development of Southern California of, 60; 152.<LB><HI REND="italics">Ferdinandin&tilde;os</HI>
205.sgm: (Indian Tribe): 40.<LB>Fire Mill House: 151.<LB>Florence (Italy): Salvator at, v.<LB>Florence: 2, 183.<LB>Forster, Juan: 173.<LB>Frohling, John: 138.<LB>Garnier, Eugene: 162.<LB>Gelcich, Vincent: xiv, 93, 94.<LB>Gold Rush: ii, 121.<LB>Goodall, Nelson and Perkins Steamship Company: 109, 186.<LB>Gospel Swamp: 50, 172.  See also <HI REND="italics">Newport</HI>
205.sgm:.<LB>Halsey, Dr.: 63.<LB>Hancock, Major: Asphalt works of, 95, 176.<LB>Hanna, Phil Townsend: ix.<LB>Hittell, John S.:  <HI REND="italics">The Resources of California</HI>
205.sgm:, xiv.<LB>Hotels: Pico House, 126, 134; Clarendon, 135; Lafayette, 135; United States, 135.<LB>Howard, J. G.: 138.<LB>Howard, Volney E.: 152.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>213</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>Indians: Intermarriage of Californians and, 35, 39; census of 1823 and 1863, 39; mode of life in Southern California, 39, 40; as herders, 83. See also <HI REND="italics">Cahinas, San Juanen&tilde;os, San Luisen&tilde;os, Ferdinandin&tilde;os</HI>
205.sgm:.<LB>Indian Colony: 158.<LB>Irrigation: Importance of, 49, 51, 52, 53, 54; fences along ditches, 57, 167, 170, 172.<LB>Johnston, Hancock: 135, 136.<LB>Jones, C.: 139.<LB>Kearney, General: 120.<LB>Keller, Matthew: i, 63, 69, 139.<LB>Kern (County): 1.<LB>Kewen, E. J. C.: 152, 156.<LB><HI REND="italics">Laguna, Rancho de la</HI>
205.sgm:: 147, 148.<LB>Lands: Prices of in Southern California, 114, 117.<LB>Land Grants: Size of, 85, 117.<LB>Leopold II (Father of Salvator): v.<LB>Los Angeles (City): 2, Earthquake in, 21; founding of mission church at, 30; trade, manufacturing, and fruit-raising in, 47; water supply in, 53; wine-industry in, 69, 70; oil near, 93; as a mining-center, 95; industries of, 97; mails in, 111; population in, 116, 129; founding of, 119, 120; plaza, 125; houses of, 125, 126; streets of, 127, 128; churches in, 131, 132; Public Library of, 133; newspapers of, 134; 150, 158, 162, 165, 175, 178, 181, 183, 188.<LB>Los Angeles (County): Flora and Fauna of, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28; population, 29; types of settlers, 29; schools in, 30, 31; extent of agriculture in, 47; ranches in, 48; water in, 51; Santa Ana River in, 52; artesian wells in, 54; orange cultivation in, 63, 64, 65; land values in, 77; bee and silk culture in, 79; cattle-raising in, 81; sheep, 83, 84; hunting in, 89; mining in, 91; oil fields of, 93; imports and exports of, 101, 102; shipping of, 109; railways in, 110; ideal for farming, 113, 114, 115; wealth of, 117.<LB>Los Angeles (mission church): 130.<LB>Los Angeles (River): 51, 53, 124, 141, 147, 150, 157, 159.  See also <HI REND="italics">Porciu&acute;ncula</HI>
205.sgm:.<LB>Los Angeles (Valley): Size of, 123.<LB>Los Angeles and Independence Ry.: v, 110, 127, 149, 177.<LB>Los Angeles and San Pedro Ry.: Freight carried by, 100, 101.<LB>Los Nietos: 52, 53, 73, 95, 147, 164.<LB>Mallorca: Salvator at, v.<LB>Mexico: Rule of in Southern California, 35, 120, 121, 124, 173.<LB>Mining: Its importance in California, ii, iii; 91; copper, 92, 95, 99.<LB>Missions: As nucleus of early counties, 1; cattle-raising at, 85.  See also <HI REND="italics">San Gabriel, San Buenaventura, San Juan Capistrano</HI>
205.sgm:.<LB>Mojave Desert: As a mining district, 2.<LB>Neve, Felipe de (Governor): ii, 119.<LB>New England: Population in California from, iii.<LB>Newmark, Harris:  <HI REND="italics">Sixty years in California</HI>
205.sgm:, viii.<LB>Newport: 172.<LB>Nordhoff, Charles: His <HI REND="italics">California for Health, Pleasure, and Residence</HI>
205.sgm:, xiv.<LB>Norvan, Colonel: 139.<LB>Oak Knoll: 156.<LB>Obispo, San Luis: I.<LB>Oil: Discovery of in Southern California, 92, 93, 94.<LB>Olden, W. R.: Articles of, xiv.<LB>Olive (Tree): In Southern California, 60, 61.<LB>Orange (Town): Hisotry of, 171, 172.<LB>Orange (Tree): Introduction into Southern California, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66.<LB>Pacific Mail Steamship Line: 109.<LB>Palomares, Ignacio: 166, 176.<LB>Perez, Eulalia Arrila de: 152.<LB>Perry, W. G.: 150.<LB>Pico, Andre&acute;s: 93, 120, 161, 162.<LB>Pikes (Settlers from Pikes County, Missouri): Origin of term, 30.<LB><HI REND="italics">Pinole</HI>
205.sgm: (Indian food): 34.<LB>Pomona: 166.<LB><HI REND="italics">Porciu&acute;ncula, Rio</HI>
205.sgm: (The Los Angeles River): ii, 2, 120.<LB>Rainfall: 15, 16, 17, 49, 50.<LB><HI REND="italics">Ranchero</HI>
205.sgm:.  See <HI REND="italics">California</HI>
205.sgm:.<LB>Requena, Manuel: 63.<LB>Richland: 2.<LB>Rodeo: 85, 86.<LB>Rose, L. J.: 63, 64, 69, 152, 153, 154, 155.<LB>Round House: iv.<LB>Salvator, Ludwig: Date of birth, v; early life and travels, v; volumes published by, vi.<LB>San Bernardino (County): i, 52, 166.<LB>San Diego: 1, 110.<LB>San Fernando: 2; Date of founding of mission, 30; 53; fruit trees at, 61; hunting near, 89; marble discovered at, 92; oil fields of, 93, 97; imports and exports at, 105, 111, 142, 149, 159, 161.<LB>San Francisco: 110, 111, 168, 185.</p><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>214</CONTROLPGNO>
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205.sgm:<P>San Gabriel (Mission): Date of founding, 30; agriculture at, 61; orange trees planted at, 62, 119, 144, 145, 149, 151, 152.<LB>San Gabriel (River): 2, 51; extent of, 52, 53, 54, 76; gold discoveries on, 91; 120, 164, 165.<LB>San Gabriel (Town): 2; table of temperature at, 3, 14, 21; 105, 151, 152, 163.<LB>San Gabriel (Valley): Earthquake in, 21; artesian wells in, 53; hunting in, 89.<LB>San Jose&acute;: 166.<LB>San Juan Capistrano: 2; date of founding, 30; fruit trees at, 61; early history of, 173.<LB><HI REND="italics">San Luisen&tilde;os</HI>
205.sgm: (Indian tribe): 40.<LB>San Pasqual: 158.<LB>San Pedro: Importance of bay at, 2, 95; 110, 124, 147, 184, 186.<LB>Santa Ana (River): 2, 51, 52, 110, 166, 167, 171, 172.<LB>Santa Ana (Town): 172.<LB>Santa Anita (Ranch): 152.<LB>Santa Barbara: Oil near, 92, 93, 121.<LB>Santa Monica: Shipping at, iii, 2; bathing at, 31, 79; fishing at, 90; 110, 129, 175, 177, 178, 179, 180, 181.<LB>Schools: Characteristics and size of, 30, 31.<LB>Shaw, Dr.: 138.<LB>Shorb, J. De B.: 152, 155.<LB>Sonora: Population from, 35; 135.<LB>Southern Pacific Ry.: i, 101, 107, 108, 127, 163, 165, 183.<LB>Spadra: 2, 106, 110, 111; origin of name, 165, 166.<LB>Stearns, Abel: Mining activities of, 91.<LB>Stoneman, George: 152, 156, 157.<LB>Thom, Cameron E.: 138.<LB>Titus, L. H.: 152.<LB>Truman, Major Ben C.: His <HI REND="italics">Semi-Tropical California</HI>
205.sgm:, xiv.<LB>Tustin City: 2; founding of, 172.<LB>Ventura (San Buenaventura): 1; oil near, 92, 93.<LB>Verdugo, Julio: 143.<LB>Vignes, Luis: 62.<LB>Vineyards: Extent of in Southern California, 68, 69, 70.<LB>Waldron, O. V.: 137.<LB>Ward, John Shirley: 65.<LB>Westminster: 2, 170.<LB>White, T. Jefferson: 138.<LB>Widney, R. M.: 76.<LB>Wilmington: Shipping at, iii, 2; Catholic Church at, 30; fishing at, 90; imports and exports of, 103, 109, 129, 177, 183, 184, 185, 187.<LB>Wilson, B. D.: 63, 64, 69, 152, 184.<LB>Winston, Colonel: 152.<LB>Wolfskill, Joseph: 66.<LB>Wolfskill, William: 62, 63, 64, 138.<LB>Woodworth, J. D.: 139.<LB>Workman, Elijah H.: 138.<LB><HI REND="italics">Zanjas</HI>
206.sgm:<!DOCTYPE TEI2 PUBLIC "-//Library of Congress - Historical Collections (American Memory)//DTD ammem.dtd//EN" [<!entity % images system "206.ent"> %images;]> <TEI2><TEIHEADER TYPE="text" CREATOR="American Memory, Library of Congress" STATUS="new" DATE.CREATED="1/15/94"><FILEDESC><TITLESTMT><TITLE>calbk-206</TITLE>
206.sgm:<TITLE>Glimpses of hungryland; or, California sketches. Comprising sentimental and humorous sketches, poems, etc., a journey to California and back again, by land and water ... By W.S. Walker: a machine-readable transcription.</TITLE>
206.sgm:<TITLE>Collection:  "California as I Saw It":  First-Person Narratives of California's Early Years, 1849-1900; American Memory, Library of Congress.</TITLE>
206.sgm:<RESP><ROLE>Selected and converted.</ROLE>
206.sgm:<NAME>American Memory, Library of Congress</NAME>
206.sgm:<PUBLICATIONSTMT><P>Washington, 1993.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Preceding element provides place and date of transcription only.</P>
206.sgm:<P>This transcription intended to be 99.95% accurate.</P>
206.sgm:<P>For more information about this text and this American Memory collection, refer to accompanying matter.</P>
206.sgm:<SOURCEDESC><LCCN>rc01-896</LCCN>
206.sgm:<COLL>Selected from the collections of the Library of Congress.</COLL>
206.sgm:<COPYRIGHT>7819</COPYRIGHT>
206.sgm:<TEXT TYPE="publication"><FRONT><DIV><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>1</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>2</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>GLIMPSES OF</P>
206.sgm:<P>HUNGRYLAND</P>
206.sgm:<P>OR</P>
206.sgm:<P>California Sketches</P>
206.sgm:<P>Comprising Sentimental and Humorous Sketches, Po-<LB>ems, Etc, A Journey to  California and back again,<LB>by Land and Water; Incidents of Every-day<LB>Life  on the Pacific Coast,--Why I came,--<LB>What I saw, and how I like it.</P>
206.sgm:<P>BY W. S. WALKER.</P>
206.sgm:<P>CLOVERDALE, CAL.</P>
206.sgm:<P>REVEILLE PUBLISHING HOUSE.</P>
206.sgm:<P>1880.</P>
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206.sgm:<HEAD><HI REND="italics">DEDICATION</HI>
206.sgm:<P>This little book is Respectfully Dedicated to "TOM, DICK, and  HARRY," or "any other man" who may feel inclined to sympathise with  the inhabitants of "Hungryland;" and upon our solicitation, the prompt  payment of the price asked for the Work, is the strongest sympathy  expected or asked by<HSEP>THE AUTHOR.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880, by</P>
206.sgm:<P>W. S. WALKER,</P>
206.sgm:<P>In the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington.</P>
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206.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P>IN presenting this little work, I do not promise anything of a  brilliant nature: using plain household words to express my thoughts;  and if my efforts are crowned with any good results--that is: if I can cause a moment of sober reflection on the part of the reader, create a hearty laugh (even though it be at my misfortune), or persuade people to court contentment--then let me say that I have not lived in vain; and lastly, but not leastly, if I can succeed in disposing of the entire  edition of this book, for about one hundred per cent above its actual  cost, then my mission as a Book "writist" will be accomplished; for be  it "acutely known" to "all and singular" that my principal object in  publishing this book is to "make a RAISE;" for I live in "Hungryland."</P>
206.sgm:<P>"Glimpses of Hungryland" may be considered a peculiar title for a  Book, and in the course of these remarks, we will endeavor to explain  what is meant thereby:--In our humble opinion Hungryland is the home of  that roving, discontented and restless class of individuals who are found  in every portion of the civilized world.  The man who is never contented,  but always restless--always pulling up stakes, and moving around in the  search for something better, is always hungry, his pockets are hungry--his body, heart and mind are hungry--in short, he spends his life in  Hungryland; and as we belong to that class we write from experience; for  I am one of the many individuals who do not remain long enough at a time  with the man who wears my clothes to enjoy the life God has given  me.</P>
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206.sgm:<P>This life is largely made up of Memory and Hope, and both are Dreams.  We are creatures of circumstances -- and as liable to change as the ever-varying climate of our country.  While standing as it were, knee-deep amid the clover-fields of the present, how often we look forward to the gilded visions of the Future; and then we retrace our steps, and bask again in the sunny haunts of our youth, and sigh for the return of those halcyon days; or perhaps in our fancy we go still farther  back, groping our way over the beaten track of ages, and mourn that we lived not in earlier times, amid scenes that have long been festooned with the dust of dead centuries; while few of us truly live in the only period we can call our own: -- the PRESENT.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Imagination lends a charm to distance; far-off objects lose their brightness upon a near approach.  We talk of days gone by, when we were so happy and contented -- when at the same time, were we to consult our journals of every-day life, we would find that we were just as miserable then as now.  In those bewitching hours of the past that we so love to refer to, we were doubtless looking  back or forward the same as now.  I claim, as a general rule, that people blessed with the light of civilization, enjoy no true happiness on this earth.  Although we see people every day, that to all outward appearance, should be happy -- people who live in ease and luxury -- at whose doors WANT, that cruel master never knocks -- along whose path way the cares and shadows of the world should seldom or never come; yet, even they go around with long faces, bemoaning their fate, murmuring, fretting, and hoping times will get better, and declaring that everything is going wrong, and say the world is a failure, too.</P>
206.sgm:<P>There was a time, yet fresh in my memory, when the Far West looked to me most beautiful, as I stood on the fertile prairies of Illinois, surrounded with everything to render me happy -- in a State, of whose vast resources a world might well be proud; yet I grew discontented, and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>6</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P><HSEP>W. S. W.</P>
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206.sgm:<HEAD>HUNGRYLAND.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">By the Rivers and the Oceans,<LB>By the Mountains and the Lakes;<LB>Mid the regions of the North-land,<LB>And the tangled Southern "brakes;"<LB>From America's fertile borders<LB>To her central belts of sand--<LB>I have sought "a better country,"<LB>But found instead--the Hungry-land.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">On the broad high-ways of travel,<LB>In the work-shops, fields and mines;<LB>In the cities, towns and hamlets,<LB>Where the sun of freedom shines:<LB>I have found a band of brothers,--<LB>A discontented, roving band;<LB>They are "men without a country,"<LB>For they live in Hungry-land.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">They who pass their time in seeking<LB>For a road without a hill,<LB>Have within their souls an empty space,<LB>This world can never fill;<LB>For, no matter where we go,<LB>We find them hand in hand:--<LB>The discontented and the roving--<LB>Dwellers in the Hungry-land.</HI>
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206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">For, no matter where your home is:<LB>On the land or on the sea;<LB>A toiler in a monarch's realm,<LB>Or with the noble free;<LB>Whether in a peasant's cottage,<LB>Or with wealth at your command,<LB>If contentment dwells not in you,<LB>You live in Hungry-land.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">But there IS a "Better Country,"<LB>In a clime beyond the Sun,<LB>Where earth's trampers may find shelter<LB>When the toils of life are done;<LB>Where their feet will never weary,<LB>As they tread the golden sand:<LB>In the country "over yonder,"<LB>Beyond the Hungry Land.</HI>
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206.sgm:<HEAD>FROM ILLINOIS TO CALIFORNIA.<LB>BY RAIL AND STEAMER.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"My Boat is on the shore, and my Bark is on the sea."</HI>
206.sgm:<P>MY mind was made up.  I was determined to "Go West."  My valise  was packed.  The time for my departure drew near; and on the morning of  April 7th, 1864, I bid good-bye to a host of cherished relatives and  kind-hearted friends, who had assembled to witness my departure, in the  goodly town of Mason City, Illinois,--and a few moments later, I was "Off  for California."  That day I went as far as Peoria, at which point I  purchased a ticket for New York.  I wished to take the Michigan Central,  via Suspension Bridge, but in asking for the ticket I committed a little  blunder by calling for a ticket to New York via Ex-tension Bridge.  The  agent was just out of the extended kind, but promptly furnished me with  the proper paste-board.  The next morning I arrived in Chicago, but stopped only long enough to eat a hurried breakfast, and off again; and all that day I looked out of a car window, gazing at the bustling towns, fertile fields and grand forests that form characteristic features of Michigan, when the shades of evening found us at the beautiful city of Detroit.  Here we went on board a splendid ferry-boat and were invited to "Set right down to supper."  We were informed by a pompous individual,  that it would be policy <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>10</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>About day-break we arrived at Niagara Falls,--but I will not attempt  a description of the magnificent grandeur of this great cataract, for a  host of writers, by the side of whom, in regard to descriptive talent, I  am as a fire-fly to a sheet of lightning, have tried, and fallen far  short of the reality--suffice to say:--"The World has many Water-falls,  thousands of Cascades, a few Cataracts--but ONE NIAGARA.</P>
206.sgm:<P>At this great watering place I tarried for a day, trying to drink  in the wonderful beauty and sublimity of the scene; but the longer I  stayed, and the more I looked, the more I realized my inability to  grasp the full measure of its wonderfully fascinating power.  In all my wanderings nothing has struck me so forcibly, or filled my mind with a  sense of its sublimity, as did the great Falls of Niagara.</P>
206.sgm:<P>On the next morning, we arrived at Albany, and soon after were on  our way, winding along the storied shores of the Hudson.  It was Sunday,  and although the day was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>11</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>About four o'clock on the evening of the 11th, we arrived in  New York City, which, by the way I found to be a little the biggest  institution in the shape of a town that I had ever been in.  Of course every body was surprised to see me--especially of a Sunday evening (and  it a raining, too).  It did seem as if they all wanted me to stay with  them; but I told them I could not possibly stop with all of them that  time, as I was in something of a hurry--so I put up at French's Hotel.   (Mr. French is a fine man and "knows how to keep hotel).</P>
206.sgm:<P>It will here be in order to state that between Peoria and New  York, I fell in with seven other men, all enroute for California.  For convenience sake, I will call them Jones, Brown, Jenkins and Bob Ridley,  of Illinois; Tripp and German, of Canada, and Olsen, a Norwegian sailor.   We made a party of eight, whose general ideas seemed to run in the same direction.  We solemnly declared, let come what would, we would travel together, put up at the same hotel, work together, divide our wages  equally, marry the same woman, and if necessary--die together.</P>
206.sgm:<P>On the morning after our arrival in the city, we went to the office  of the California Mail Steamship Line, and finding the berths all taken,  we concluded to wait for a ship of Robert's Opposition Line, which was  advertised to leave on the 23d; and as we would be compelled to remain in  the city so long, in order to economize, we concluded to take `Steerage  passage.'  (For particulars consult Webster's Unabridged).</P>
206.sgm:<P>During our sojourn in the great Metropolis, we endeavored to "take  in" every place of interest.  We traversed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>12</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:Broadway from one  end to other, besides many other ways not quite so broad; and when the  morning of the 23d came around, we shouldered our "traps" and went  aboard the Steam-ship Illinois--bound for Aspinwall.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Our Ship is ready, and the wind is fair--<LB>I'm bound for the sea, Mary Ann."</HI>
206.sgm:<P>At noon the cannon was fired, and a few minutes later the great  paddles began to revolve, and we were drifting from the shores of  America.  There were fourteen hundred and fifty passengers on board:--about five hundred Irish and the balance from almost every other  portion of the world.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Now reader, come and cross the big water with me.--Let us sit down  in the fore-castle and journalize a little as we steam for the Isthmus.</P>
206.sgm:<P>The waters widen around our ship.--The land of our nativity is fast  fading from our view,--the shore is out of sight.  The ship goes bounding  up and down in a manner that does not seem entirely satisfactory to the undersigned.  The loud roar and crash of the huge waves, as they strike  the sides of the vessel, makes me feel like quitting all my sinful  habits.</P>
206.sgm:<P>APRIL 25th.  A heavy sea.  The waves are rolling clear over the  decks; but I am not scared--simply frightened.  The vessel groans as if  she would come to pieces; if she does, I hope she will come to some good, firm pieces of land.  If I ever do reach California, my travels on the  ocean are ended.</P>
206.sgm:<P>APRIL 26th.  Nearly all our mess are sick.  Dinner is under way; it  commences at noon and lasts until 4 p.m., then supper begins, and that  never ends--that is, hardly ever; at least that's a woman.  I used to do  the like when I was a youth, but hazel switches promptly administered,  taught me lessons wise, likewise and otherwise.</P>
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206.sgm:<P>APRIL 30th.  In sight of the Island of Cuba.  It looks like a gray  cloud stretching along the horizon, but upon a nearer approach it  presents bold shores, the country appearing rather mountainous, and is interspersed with hills and valleys, dotted with lovely groves.  It was  here that Dr. Kane breathed out the last hours of a useful life.  After  his near association with the grim monster during two dark winters in the  Polar regions, it is cheering to know that he was at last permitted to  lie down and sleep in the "Queen of Isles"--the spot coveted by all  nations--peerless Cuba: where the fragrance of rare spices fill the air  with sweet perfume.</P>
206.sgm:<P>MAY 3d.  There is some prospect of reaching the Isthmus to-night.   But little air is stirring, and the weather is terribly warm.  Our ship  represents a first-class menagerie.  Human nature is here in all its  varied forms, and what Barnum was doing when we left New York, is indeed  a mystery; for he missed a rare opportunity.</P>
206.sgm:<P>MAY 4th.  We arrived at Aspinwall at 12 o'clock last night, and  this morning I went up on deck and took my first look at "The Deathly  Isthmus."  The country around Aspinwall is very low, and rather marshy;  but the town I call rather a pretty place; clean, tidy looking houses--while the beautiful trees of the tropics:--Cocoa, Orange, Palm, Lime,  Lemon, Bannana and Pine-apple, greet the eye on every hand  The natives,  of both sexes, come in crowds down to the pier, with baskets of their  own peculiar fashioning, laden with tempting fruit, sea shells etc.  Owing to the non-arrival of our connecting ship on the Pacific side, we  were compelled to remain at Aspinwall several days; and as a natural  consequence we spent the greater portion of our time on shore.  But I  regret to say that about one-third of our passengers, in their continual "wrestling" with Jamaica Rum, (which is here in plentiful quantities and  very cheap), became what might very appropriately be termed: "total  wrecks."</P>
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206.sgm:<P>We boarded the train and left Aspinwall on the 8th.  The country  across the Isthmus--a distance of forty-six miles, as I viewed it from  the car window, was a mixture of the beautiful, wonderful, grand,  gloomy, and peculiar order, the face of the country growing much higher  as we approach Panama.  We passed several villages on the road, peopled  entirely by natives.  Their houses are built of a kind of bamboo and thatch-work; and are exceedingly "well ventilated."</P>
206.sgm:<P>Before leaving Aspinwall, Jenkins and I laid in half a gallon of  Jamaica Rum, to keep the mosquitoes from biting us; (mosquitoes grow  unusually large in Central America), and as the snakes in this country  also grow to an enormous size, Ridley and Brown also laid in half a  gallon of the seductive fluid to keep off the snakes.  It is not  necessary to add that during the entire journey we were not bothered, either by snakes or mosquitoes.</P>
206.sgm:<P>We arrived at Panama in due season; and such a time as we had  getting on board the Pacific steamer ("Moses Taylor), beggars  description:--cursing, pushing, jamming and crowding--all striving to  get on board first.  That crowd was composed of people from nearly every  civilized country--from nearly every station in life--CIVILIZED people.   They knew we were all going, knew the ship was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>15</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>MAY 12th.  Yesterday morning about sunrise, our ship steamed up  and "stood" for San Francisco.  Last night, as the ship was terribly  crowded, we boys concluded to sleep on deck, in the open air.  We had a  heavy awning over us, however, in the shape of a clouded sky.  We lay  down and slept, but during the night the sea grew boisterous, and we  were awakened from our innocent dreams by the angry dashing of the waves,  and soon after a soaking rain came pouring down.  The heavens were ablaze  with the lurid glare of lightning.  "It was midnight on the ocean," and  a gloomy one it was.  I still remember, as I learned over the railing,  how I shrank back horrified, as I beheld the white-crested waves rolling  up within a few feet of me, splashing the water in my face.  The roar of  the waters, the groaning of the vessel, the crash of thunder, and the  spectral looking watch in the fore-castle striking the bells for the  midnight hour, formed a scene such as I have no desire to figure in a  second time.</P>
206.sgm:<P>MAY 18th.  In sight of the coast of Mexico.  The temperature is  getting cooler.  The hours drag slowly by,<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>To the West far out, blue billows roll,<LB>As onward swift we go;<LB>While to the East in grandeur rise--<LB>The cliffs of Mexico.</HI>
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206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The mountains dark and grim loom up:<LB>Even to the clouds they reach,<LB>While Cocoa groves in quiet rest,<LB>Along the sandy beach.<LB>Tehuantepec's broad gulf we've passed--<LB>The sun is sinking low,<LB>And in the gathering darkness fades<LB>The coast of Mexico.</HI>
206.sgm:<P>MAY 23d.  In sight of Lower California.  The headlands of Cape St  Lucas rises in the distance; saw several whales to-day.  Lower California  presents a desolate appearance: barren hills and desert-wastes.</P>
206.sgm:<P>MAY 25th.  We are nearing California; passed Monterey about noon.   The sailors are getting the cables ready and putting the ship in order.   In the distance I can see houses on the ever-green shores of the happy  land; horses, cattle and sheep are grazing in countless numbers on  the grassy slopes, and--"I long to be there too."  Our grand army of  passengers all seem happy at the prospect of soon being on shore.  The decks are crowded with men women and children--enough people to fill up  a big town.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Jottings by the way on, the road to California will soon be laid  aside.  Yonder is the Golden Gate!  Up goes my old hat, as the city  heaves in view.  The sun is just setting, and we are going into port.   I thank the Giver of all good that I have escaped the dangers of the  Deep, and been permitted to witness the sun go down from the shore of  the Pacific.  To our noble Ship, "Moses Taylor" I touch my hat.  To Ocean life a long farewell.</P>
206.sgm:<P>California, I stand upon your golden shore.  Your white sands  glisten beneath my feet, and your blue sky, studded with brilliant stars,  spreads out over my head.</P>
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206.sgm:<HEAD>Life in California.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P>HOW EIGHT OF US "STUCK TOGETHER."</P>
206.sgm:<P>BEFORE leaving the Steamer, `Moses Taylor,' our crowd [the notorious Eight], got together and unanimously agreed [according to previous arrangements], that we would all go to the same Hotel,--of course we  would,--and we also remarked:--"Woe unto that "runner" who attempts to  seperate our crowd."  Reader, perhaps you are aware that it was no small  job to go ashore from an ocean steamer, after dark, in San Francisco  sixteen years ago.  In those days the bulk of the travel from `the  States' to California, was on ocean steamers, by the Panama and  Nicaragua routes; and the arrival of a steamer was met by thousands of  people, assembled on the piers, and hotel runners in that assembly were  far more numerous than snakes on the Isthmus!  And in regard to our going  ashore I will not lacerate the feelings of the reader by entering too  minutely into particulars, but will venture the statement, that it took  just seven hotels to accommodate our crowd of eight.  Jenkins and I fell  into the clutches of a human porcupine who represented the old St. Louis  Hotel down on Pacific Street--although we did not discover <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>18</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>Jones had became acquainted with a young lady on the steamer, and  this young lady was going to Sacramento--and Jones concluded that  Sacramento was good enough for him; and he went, and I saw him no more.   Brown and Ridley went over to Oakland to hunt up an old friend and  although sixteen years have elapsed since then, I do not yet know whether  they found that friend or not.  German and Tripp went to Benecia, stayed  a few weeks and then "lit out" for Canada.  Jenkins went to Petaluma, and  from there to Sebastopol, and from there to Illinois, and from there back  to California, and from there to Ohio, and then back to Illinois, and  from there back to California, and from there to Missouri (and that  nearly let him out), and from there back to California, where he now is,  a financial wreck, and several degrees older than he was sixteen years ago--another representative of Hungryland.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Olsen, the old sailor, got a job in the city, washing dishes at a  hotel, for his board; but I since learned that a test trial of one week  ended the contract--bankrupting the hotel keeper and forcing Olsen into  the hospital, where he lay for seven weeks under treatment for the gout.   It was <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>19</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>I had several inducements offered me in the way of employment.  One  man from the "upper country" offered me forty dollars per month, and all I had to do was to milk twenty-five cows before breakfast, then do up  the `chores' and put in the balance of the time in the field.  I told him  I would see him again, but I was careful not to name any particular time  or place, and when I did "see him again" I took particular care to know  that he did not see me; finally I went up into Sonoma County, and took a  job of chopping wood, in the vicinity of Petaluma; and no doubt would  have continued at it unto this day, had I not fell to thinking how it  would mar the beauty of the landscape to have all the trees cut down.   That settled me.  I didn't wish to `spoil a country' with "my little  hatchet"--I love fine scenery--so I threw up the job, went up on Russian  River, near where the town of Guerneville now stands--(in Pocket Kanion),  and sat down in the shade of a huge Redwood tree and went to shaving  shingles,</P>
206.sgm:<P>Thus you see, kind Reader, we are the creatures of circumstances;  and although it is an easy thing for any one to look back and see where  we missed opportunities and to see where we might have done different;  but it is not so easy a task to look forward and see what is best for us  to do, and figure out the results of the future.  In our crowd of eight  persons, in coming to California, perhaps not one of us ever realized  our cherished expectations.  No doubt all left home full of hope,  inter-woven with the glowing anticipations of an improved and prosperous  future; and no doubt every one of us, upon our arrival here, accepted  situations, which, had the same been tendered us "back <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>20</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>It is a note-worthy fact that a great many individuals ramble  through life, until they are about ready to die, before the bitter  lessons of experience assert their supremacy, and shows them how to live.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Better to bear the ills we have, than fly to those we know not  of."</HI>
206.sgm:<P>Reader, if there is a spot on this earth that you can call HOME,--no matter whether it is in the ice-clad regions of the North, or beneath  the dreamy skies of the `Sun-Lands'--be contented, and stay there.  With  a home and friends and a contented mind, the World is beautiful almost  anywhere; and without these jewels, you will find this World a barren,  cheerless waste--a Hungry-Land--no matter where you go.  Those earthly  jewels: a HOME, FRIENDS and CONTENTMENT are within the reach of almost  every one.  The first can be gained by Industry, Economy and Sobriety,  and the second may be secured by Honesty and Uprightness; and contentment  will come of itself and abide with us if we take the right view of Life,  as it is, for <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Life is short, and time is fleeting,<LB>And our hearts, though stout and brave,<LB>Still like muffled drums are beating<LB>Funeral marches to the grave."</HI>
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206.sgm:<HEAD>Pilgrims on the Tramp.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P>THE HIDDEN QUARTZ LEDGE ON YUBA RIVER.</P>
206.sgm:<P>The autumn of 1864 found me once more in the wood chopping business,  this time near Sebastopol, Sonoma County.  I had picked up a "chum" named  Reed, and he and I were sworn friends.  He was a blacksmith and although  both of us were doing very well, considering our respective avocations,  yet like the average specimens of human nature, we both felt sure that we  could do much better; and at the time my story opens, we were on the  lookout for pastures new and fields more green; in short we announced to  our friends that we were going to hunt "a better climate and more money."</P>
206.sgm:<P>We met one night in a shoe shop to consult as to where we would go  and when we would start.  Arizona, New Mexico, and Montana were talked  of, but Reed had his head set on the "old mines" of California.  He knew  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>22</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>While on our way to "Frisco" on the steamer we met a Sonoma  county ranchman named Jones, whom we knew to be one of the wealthiest  men in the county.  We told him we were enroute for Arizona; but he had  no faith in the lower country, but said he could put us on the track of something better in the old mines of California.  He told us of a certain bar on the North Fork of Yuba river, where himself and a partner had kept  a boarding house and trading store in '49, dealing out provisions, etc.,  to the miners of that region, and one day, while at that place, he and  his partner were putting up a new boarding tent, and digging down the  river bank to <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>23</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>While in San Francisco we fell in with a man, who we will call  "Jeems."  This man "Jeems" had an honest face and he wished to try his  luck in the mines, so we concluded to take him in as a partner [he was  badly taken in], so after taking a `bird's-eye' view of San Francisco,  we went on board a steamboat, bound for Sacramento, where we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>24</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>Between Sacramento and Ione Valley we stopped at a wayside Inn, and  in conversation with the landlord, we learned that he was tired of that  section of the country, and seemed very anxious to seek a new location;  and in order to do something for him, we refered him to Tomales Bay; and  he being rather struck with our appearance (thunderstruck no doubt],  brought out a pitcher of ale, and in a short time we were all AILING to  some extent.  We then launched off into an unabridged description of the  Bay--It's clam-beds, the romantic Island--the shell beach and the  splendid fishing, the splendid climate etc., and at the conclusion of  our remarks, the old man in a fearful state of excitement rushed to the  barn, saddled a horse, mounted him, and with jingling spurs, went flying  like the wind in the direction of the famed country, leaving word for his  wife to tear down and burn everything on the ranch, and follow him to the  goodly land.  [We passed] on up the road.</P>
206.sgm:<P>During the next day we reached Ione Valley, and after a few days  rest, we set out anew.</P>
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206.sgm:<P>The dust was deep, the road growing more rugged as we neared the Sierra Nevadas.  We passed through Placerville, and soon after crossed  the South Fork of American River.  After crossing the river, our road led  for nearly two miles up a very steep grade.  Higher and higher, up we  went.  We were getting in the Sierra Nevadas.  Here the scenery exceeds  the loftiest imagination, but a faint idea can be formed of its grandeur  by imagining everything in the shape of dashing waterfalls, rushing  torrents, cold springs of water gushing from the rocks, narrow winding  trails along the mountain side, the crystal waters of a river far below,  stately pines and firs reaching away up into the blue space overhead,  while towering in majestic grandeur the snow-capped mountains glisten in  the sunlight, while scattered far back in hazy, dream-like loveliness the  rustic homes of the ranchmen in the green valleys, the miner's cabin and  wigwam of the Indian all flit before the eye at one circle sweeping  glance.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Such scenes as this lie spread out in living reality the year round  'neath the skies of California.  From Marysville, which is considered the  warmest temperature in middle and upper California, to any point fifty miles above, can be found as many changes of scenery and varying climates  as the balance of the world can produce.  I still love the foot-hills  of the Sierras, with the enchanting scenes that adorn their variegated  steeps, and would never grow weary standing on their terraced heights,  gazing upon the beautiful pictures there unfolded, painted and spread out  by nature's great Artist, who dips his magic brush into those unfading  colors, and with one masterly stroke produces a view that the brightest  genius of nations strive for ages with envious art to imitate.</P>
206.sgm:<P>It was sundown when we reached the top of the grade, where we camped  in an old deserted house by the wayside.  Vegetation was scarce, so we  turned our horses loose, to shift for themselves, while we piled our  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>26</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>About 9, a.m., we arrived at an old deserted town bearing the name  of "Bottle Hill,"--The only inhabitant we discovered here was a Spanish  woman.  She informed us we were within a short distance of the middle  fork of American River, at the same time pointing out a rough trail that  led by a much nearer way to the ferry, but seldom used by any except  footmen, horsemen deeming it unsafe to ride down its terrifying steeps.   As we were in quest of adventure, it only took us about a minute to  decide on running all risks and take the trail  We then set out on one  of the most perilous journeys I ever undertook, either before or  since.  Though years have gone by, even now I start from my slumbers  horror-stricken, as visions of the middle fork of American River flit  by.</P>
206.sgm:<P>A more precipitous trail it would be difficult to imagine.  We soon dismounted, uncoiled our lariats, and strung out, driving our ponies  ahead of us.  The mountain that we were descending was mostly covered  with timber, yet once, during our descent we came to an open space, and  were thus enabled to survey our position.  We were midway on the side  of a lofty mountain ridge, which seemed almost perpendicular, its top  towering thousands of feet above us, while thousands of feet below,  appeared an awful chasm--walled up with blueish-white rock, through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>27</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>As we descended, the roar of the water gradually broke upon our ears, and when we reached the river side, the roar was absolutely  deafening.  The ferry-man took us over one at a time, running his boat  with rope and tackel.  Our trail on the opposite was equally steep and  more destitute of trees, making our situation more apparent.  The trail,  in our ascent, at one place ran out to a bare point midway on the  mountain side--the river at this point appearing below on both sides  of us.  Here we stopped to regain our breath, and to gaze upon the wild  scene until we grew faint and dizzy; and then we continued the ascent,  scarcely daring to look back until we had reached the summit.</P>
206.sgm:<P>That night we slept on the banks of Deer Creek, the roar of whose  swift waters, together with the wild melody of the wind toying with the  pines kept us half awake during the entire night; on the following  morning we set out anew, and about noon reached a wayside inn, near  French Corral, on what was then known as "The Henness Pass" route.  This  inn was kept by an old man named Browning, who had lived in that vicinity  for several years.  After refreshing the inner man, from our rudely drawn  maps it was evident that we were now in the immediate vicinity of the  hidden Bar, and after gaining what we could from Browning in regard to  the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>28</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>A short time before sundown we reached the Bar, and found ourselves  in one of the gloomiest places imaginable.  The mountain tops seemed to  almost meet as they hung frowning over us on each side of the river.  A  deep ravine came down through a dark gorge at the upper end of the bar,  and we found the place in possession of a few Chinamen who were engaged  in "rocking" and "sluicing" along the banks of the river-  Altogether it  was a hard looking place.</P>
206.sgm:<P>I asked Reed how he liked the old mines.  He said he was thinking of  home, and "longed to be there too."  I then asked `Jeems' what he thought  of the prospect, and I felt sorry for him when he turned his honest face  to me and said, "I've got a sweetheart in Iowa; I am engaged to her but  I'd give one hundred dollars to be released from her to-night."  He, like the rest of us was getting very homesick and lonesome in this gloomy  place; I told Jeems if he'd stay one week on that bar and then have his  picture taken and send it to his girl I thought that considerable less  than one hundred dollars would let him off.  We were in a lonely place  and did not like the looks of our neighbors.  So after supper, we lay  around the camp fire forming our plans and ever and anon firing our  revolvers over the Chinamen's cabin, in order to let them know that we  were a dangerous set of men and not to be trifled with.  It is needless  to say that we held them in check.  About midnight, as usual, we were  awakened by a crackling noise and upon springing to our feet we  discovered that we had kindled our fire near the edge of a deep shaft that had doubtless been sunk many years before for mining purposes.  This shaft had been filled up with drift-wood and derbis, and was dry as <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>29</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>After this we concluded to lay down again, each one deeming it  prudent to lay as LOW DOWN as he possibly could.</P>
206.sgm:<P>After taking in the situation, as our finances were on the wane, we concluded to go up on the hills and see if we could not find some old settler or distant relative who would "put up" a little grub for us on  the strength of developing that Quartz Ledge.  Fortunate conclusion!</P>
206.sgm:<P>The next day about dinner time we happened to call on a family  named Green.  It took me but a few moments to convince them that I was  GREEN too, and I told them of a host of my relatives in Illinois who  were fully as green as I was.  We eat dinner with the family, and when  we came to start back to camp, Mrs. Green, Heaven bless her liberal  heart, filled up a basket with table luxuries for our especial benefit,  which [of course, after considerable coaxing] we took.  The next day a  man named Dunbrown came along.  He was the owner of a large ranch, and  carried a high head, filled with speculative ideas of bewildering  magnitude.  Dunbrown informed us that he was an old Californian, and  well posted.  What he did know might have filled a large book, yet I still think what he did not know would have <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>30</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>So we gave him a hint of the glittering treasure that was supposed  to be covered up in that bar--told him our plans, and if he wished a show  in the "bonanza," he could have it by digging that ditch.  No other man  on top of ground could have got such a "lay out" from us as Dunbrown--and  he took it.  And for seven days he swung the mattock, and for seven days,  old Reed, Jeems and I lay in the shade and hurrahed for the "old  Californian," and told him to hew his way into the bowels of that bar.   The ditch was dug, but no signs of gold quartz; and it then began to grow alarmingly apparent that we were on a "wild goose" chase, for we found  that the Yuba River, since the days of 1849, had been filling up with  `tailings' caused by mining in the river and hills above, to the depth  of 50 feet or more, and it became apparent to us that the site of the old  boarding tent and the rich quartz ledge lay buried far beneath us; and  then we began to change our programme.  We told Dunbrown that it might  be possible we were on the wrong bar; and if he would `lay low' and `hold  the Fort.' we would go to Sonoma county and get a more accurate  description of the river from Jones--and then return and accumulate  wealth.  This was satisfactory, and we took an affectionate leave of  Dunbrown, hoping to never meet him again, unless we were perfectly  assured he was unarmed.  We afterwards learned that Dunbrown departed  for his own home just as soon as we were well out of sight, no doubt  as glad to be rid of us as we were of him.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Reader it is a terrible thing to be disappointed in some genuine  expectation.  You are no doubt, aware of <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>31</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>Shortly after leaving the bar, the rain began to pour down, and  it was unanimously agreed to "hoe for Browning's Inn," which place we  reached about three o'clock in the afternoon, and while we were engaged  in drying our rain drenched garments, and warming ourselves up by the  different processes known to western travelers, a heavy train, loaded  with machinery for a Quartz Mill, drawn by oxen, came along--enroute for Egan's Canyon.  The proprietor of this train needed a few more ox-drivers and as we considered ourselves sharp enough to drive, we resolved to  apply for a situation.  It was agreed that I should do the talking,  showing forth our qualifications etc., and Reed and Jeems were to endorse everything I said.  I said too much.  I told the train master, that  in regard to Jeems' qualifications as an ox driver, I really knew  nothing, but if the way he handled beef around the camp-fire was any  recommendation, he certainly had no <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>32</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>Very early in the morning I awoke and discovered my worthy partner  "tending bar" all by himself; of course I asked him why such things  were thusly, and he replied that he was "merely taking an invoice of  Browning's stock on hand; "as a natural consequence, I applied for a  situation as book-keeper or something of the kind, but just at this  juncture, old Browning came in, and your humble servant hid himself  beneath his blankets and slumbered.  But from my humble couch I overheard  Browning telling Reed that he would "treat," give us our breakfast, and  pay our way to Marysville if we would push out that morning.  Reed told  him if he would throw in a couple of plugs of tobacco, the proposition  would be accepted.  The trade was closed, we mounted our mustangs, and  with a miserable attempt to start a camp-meeting, we sang out:  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>"Good-bye old Browning, stick to your stand,<LB>To you and yours a long adieu,<LB>Old Reed invoiced your stock on hand,<LB>And we are bound for Timbuctoo."</HI>
206.sgm:<P>and we traveled.  As we had no more old decomposed <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>34</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>We reached Park's Bar in due season, and the toll-bridge keeper  gave us permission to mine on what he considered `pay dirt' near the toll house--Our finances were getting low, and it was a "ground hog"  case, so we took possession of an old cabin on the banks of the river;  borrowed about twenty sluice boxes, then we borrowed enough stove wood  to last us some time; then we borrowed an old worn out stove--borrowed  a sack of flour--in fact we borrowed everything we could in the  neighborhood, and then we twirled our old hats over our heads and  shouted: "Let winter storms come on--let the floods descend,--Reed and  his partner are well heeled."</P>
206.sgm:<P>As soon as possible we placed our sluice boxes in position ranging  them along the river, with a good opportunity for "dumping" into the  stream, and then with a couple of miner's picks, we went to work.  After  keeping our sluice running for about two weeks, we "cleaned up" and found  about fifteen dollars worth of the precious metal; of course it was  amalgated with the quicksilver, which is used to pick up fine gold, and  this little treasure Reed undertook to retort by placing it in an old  iron shovel, and holding it over the fire, when suddenly the shovel  became red-hot and our gold all disappeared in the iron-shovel--absorbed.   Then it became apparent to us that we were "busted," but then we had the  best shovel on the bar--there was money in it--but it was borrowed, and  the owner wanted it--we returned it and went to work again.  This time  we applied ourselves vigorously, borrowed more quicksilver and prepared  for another "clean up" on a certain Saturday, when sad to relate, on the  Friday previous, a terrible storm set in up in the mountains; the Yuba  river rose with wonderful rapidity, and on Saturday morning we awoke to  discover <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>35</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>In going to Brown's Valley we had to cross Dry Creek by walking  through a flume that spanned the creek.  This flume was one thousand feet  in length, and nearly one hundred feet above the level of the creek-bed,  and was used for conveying water for mining purposes from one hill side  to another.  Although a hazardous attempt for those unaccustomed to such  feats, we managed to cross over in safety.  After getting our mail and  finding the credit business abolished at the provision stores, we set out  on our return; a heavy rain set in, and when we reached the Dry Creek  flume, we found the water rushing through <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>36</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>It was then mid-winter, and Christmas morning found us frying the  string our bacon had been suspended with.  This we washed down with a  tin cup full of pepper-wood tea, and then we sat down to reflect on the  peculiarity of the situation.  All at once Reed started up and said he  believed there was a God in Isreal yet, for the day before he had seen  the tracks of a mountain hare in the hills above us, and rising to his  full length he then and there declared that ere another sun went down,  he would have the meat of that hare, or he would have WOOL.  I told him I  thought it would be useless for him to attempt to get within reach of any  kind of game, as the sigh of as oddly dressed and hungry looking man as  he was, would put lightning speed in a snail.  But Reed was determined,  and went out and borrowed a gun and started forth, while I sat down in  the cabin to drop a few lines to Sonoma county friends, ordering parched  corn and straight jackets for two miners.  I knew we wanted straight  jackets, for we were in straightened circumstances.  I had been engaged  but a short time when a noise startled me.  Stepping to the door, I was  just in time to see a large hare going through the chapparal like the  wind, with its hair reversed, and making terrible leaps at every turn  in the trail, as it caught glimpses of its desperate pursuer.  Reed  having thrown away his gun, was following the animal at a break-neck  pace.  Seeing it was a race for life, and no funeral of mine, I went  back and resumed writing.  About half an hour elapsed, when the clatter  of worn out boots, falling on the stony ground in rapid succession, fell  upon my ears.  I went back only to see a continuation of the old chase.   This time the hare seemed to be making directly for our cabin, but one  <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>37</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>There's no use talking; this sketch must be finished up in some  shape or other.  We determined to return to Sonoma county, but how to  get there without money was a tough question.  We finally hit upon a  plan: I had an old watch chain, supposed to be worth $40 (but I have  since learned that some suppositions are decidedly erroneous).  This  chain we proposed to melt up and then travel on the "nuggets" obtained  therefrom.  We placed the chain in a mud ball, heated that ball at a blacksmith's forge until it was `red hot,' and upon breaking it open we  found a hand-full of metalic pieces, bearing a strong resemblance to  coarse, or nuggett gold--and then we were off,--first making our way  to Ione Valley, at which place it was decided that Reed should remain  and work for a few days, while I would try to make my way to Sonoma  county.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Sacramento was distant about 45 miles; and about 9 o'clock one  morning, I mounted my mustang and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>38</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>I then went to an Assayor and produced my nuggets.  The assayer  examined the pieces, testing them carefully, and then told me that there  was probably $3 worth of gold in the entire lot, and it would cost at  least $4 to assay it.  Was that me or some other waif of humanity  standing on the street, in the crowded city of Sacramento, after a ride  of nearly 50 miles, with empty pockets, and my mustang in a stranger's  stable, eating ten cents worth of hay at every mouth-full and taking  fresh bites with alarming rapidity!  I ran my hands into my pockets and  finding 20 cents I <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>39</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>A thousand thoughts hurried through my mind.  Other men had stood  on those same streets--all the way from the days of '49,--other men were  standing on these same streets now--as flat broke as I was; and right  then and there I inwardly resolved to return to Sonoma county--even  though a hundred toll-bridges, spanning as many rushing torrents, lay  between.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Knowing the bridge over the Sacramento River would be closed at  six o'clock.  I hurried to the livery stable and told the keeper that  I wanted to give my mustang a bath in the river; he said that was an  eminently proper thing to do; and he also intimated that a bath might be  a good thing for me.  I took the hint, and in order to get even, I never  went back to his stable.  I galloped to the Hotel--called the clerk to  one side, and told him that I had met an old friend from the country,  and that friend insisted on my going out and spending the night with him.   The clerk gave me my revolver, patted me on the shoulder and told me to  `go to the country by all means.'</P>
206.sgm:<P>After leaving the hotel, I scampered for the bridge, and paid out  my last cent for toll--crossed the river and a few miles out I stopped  at a country tavern, where I put up for the night.  My mustang was  provided with comfortable quarters, while I was assigned to a sort of  a wood-shed and dog-house combined.  The next morning I presented the  land-lady with one of my choicest `nuggets'--supposed to be worth  considerable.  Of course I would not have done this with every one, (I  could not afford to) but seeing it was her, and I had came along as a  stranger and they took me in [to the dog-house].</P>
206.sgm:<P>Soon after I mounted my "plug" and continued on my journey; and  by being liberal in dosing (bull-dosing) out my "nuggetts" I finally  reached Barker Valley, where I fortunately fell in with a gentleman  named Cunningham, formerly of Peoria, Illinois.  He was then traveling  in the interest of one of the San Francisco Daily papers; and <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>40</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>I reached Sebastopol in safety, and there found myself once more  with friends; and a short time after, Reed arrived, and we both settled  down to our respective avocations; but when the next Autumn came round,  learning that an old-fashioned Camp-meeting was to be held near  Healdsburg, on Russian River, we concluded to go; and if the reader will  bear with me, I will in the succeeding Sketch, tell something of what I  know about the Russian River Valley, the Redwoods, and the big  Camp-Meeting.</P>
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206.sgm:<HEAD>Russian River Valley;<LB>THE REDWOODS,<LB>AND THE BIG CAMP-MEETING.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P>I well remember the morning when Reed and I, [mounted on the spring  seat of a one-horse cart or "dug-out,"] started on our journey to the Redwoods on Russian River and a big Camp-Meeting just then commencing  near Healdsburg.  The weather was everything that could be desired; the  sky was heavenly blue--the air balmy and delicious.--(Sebastopol was our  starting point).</P>
206.sgm:<P>Our road lay through Green Valley,--a beautiful vale, skirted with  tasty vineyards and flourishing orchards.  After traveling about ten  miles, the country became more broken, the trees assumed a more lofty  hight, and the hills were steeper, while the Coast Range rising in the  distance indicated our near approach to the Redwoods.  We intended  stopping for the night with an old friend of Reed's, who lived in the  Redwoods.  It was about noon when we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>42</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>Of course, we were invited in to dinner; the old man was but an  ordinary cook, and I presume he set out "the best in the shanty."  Our  dinner consisted of cold hominy, cold potatoes, cold bacon, cold beans,  and cold water--and as a natural consequence Reed and I both took a  severe cold before we got through.</P>
206.sgm:<P>After dinner, in company with the old man, we started out on foot  to explore the forest.  It was a bright clear day and just after noon,  yet beneath the shadows of the mighty forest, it was dark as twilight in  the Eastern States.  Such trees I had never dreamed of, and fancied that  they <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>43</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>Many Redwood trees on Russian River, I have good evidence to  believe, stands fully 400 feet in hight, and as many as ONE MILLION of  excellent shingles have been made from the best portion of the trunk of  a single tree; and from forty to sixty thousand feet of clear lumber has  been sawed from the body of one of these trees; and the largest trees are not cut, either for shingles or lumber, as their immense size renders  them unprofitable to reduce.  We feel pretty safe in saying, that there  is enough Redwood timber in the canyons adjacent to Russian River to  fence in the entire world, build a city larger than London, and then have  enough fire-wood left to supply all creation for several years.</P>
206.sgm:<P>The canyons of Russian River, near the coast, are thickly studded  with Redwood trees, varying in size from the tender sapling to giants  twenty-five feet in diametre.  The bark on the larger trees is from one  inch to two feet in thickness; it takes a good chopper, generally from  two to five days to fell one of these monsters of the forest.  They chop  and split very easily.  I have seen plank, more than twenty feet in  length, split, or rived out with a common froe--in fact, nearly all the weather-boarding for the cabins of the woodmen in early days, was gotten  out in this manner.  One remarkable feature of this Redwood timber is,  that it seldom or never decays.  Trees which, to all appearances, have  lain on the ground more than one hundred years, are as sound as ever.</P>
206.sgm:<P>On the following morning we geared up our `red horse' and  started for Healdsburg, the Camp-meeting--and all way stations.  Our  road lay up the Russian River Valley--one of the loveliest regions  that lies beneath the clear skies of this sunny land.  On our winding  way, we crossed Russian River nine times, and other streams in  proportion.  On every hand the scenery was simply enchanting in  its picturesque beauty.  Flourishing <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>44</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>We found Healdsburg a handsomely shaded village of perhaps five  hundred inhabitants (this you will remember was in 1865).</P>
206.sgm:<P>We drove straight to a Livery stable and hailed the hostler thusly:  "Mister, is there a tavering in this burg?"  "Yes-zur-ee," said he;  "That two-story frame over there, is a staving house, you bet.  That  was sufficient news for us, and after telling him to shovel the shelled  oats into that red nag of ours in alopathic doses, we made a wild dash  for the hotel, and were soon "getting away" with a "square meal"--that  is to say, we consumed everything within three square feet of our  immediate vicinity.  After our repast, we took a stroll through the  village, and during our rambles, we experienced the sorrow of being an  unwilling spectator to a fight between two women, during which skirmish, snuff-colored hair and crinoline suffered cousiderably.  We paused only  long enough to shout: "Fight on, fair flowers of this sunny land;  Northern chivalry behold and applaud your deeds."  We understand the  battle continued until some spectator informed the belliggerants that  calico had "riz," and that ended the fight.</P>
206.sgm:<P>In our further perambulations, we came across an acquaintance named  Tom Clevinger.  He was [as he stated <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>45</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>The majority of the boarders dined, but Reed, Tom and your humble servant being somewhat human contented ourselves with simply "chawing"  provisions and pouring down hot coffee for about 70 minutes, and then  Tom told the folks to bring on their preachers--About ten o'clock we  took our seats in the assembly, and listened to the Gospel's solemn  warning.  It was Sunday.  We were strangers in a strange land--far from  the haunts of our nativity.  Old memories were busy in our hearts.  That  Sunday I shall long remember; the dark ever-green trees overhead--the  wild birds singing around us in the trees--all served to bring back to  me in all its freshness and purity, the sweet pictures of childhood.   Hundreds of people in the vast crowd had come from the mountains and  distant valleys, twenty, forty and even one hundred miles away.  Quite  a number of the Red children of the West had gathered on the outskirts  of the camp, gazing steadily on the pale-faced speaker--listening with  wrapt attention, as he in thrilling tones called on the wanderers of  every nation to come home to God.  My heart was deeply touched, and I  felt that I too, had wandered a long way from my Father's house.  After  the sermon was over, the most intense feeling prevailed--all present  seemed to realize that God was there.  Old woodmen and miners, many of  them wrecks on the mad sea of life, got up and testified to a brighter  hope--faith in Jesus.  Old soldiers and sailors, bronzed by the wearing  service on land and sea--men who had trod the streets of old Jerusalem  and mocked and blasphemed the sacred places in the City of David, rose  up and with tears coursing down their cheeks, prayed that they might  yet moor their storm tossed barges on the Golden Shore.</P>
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206.sgm:<P>But time sped on, and the Camp Meeting on Russian River came to a close, yet even now, a beautiful vision gleams in the distance like  "Apples of gold in pictures of silver," and the beautiful valley--the  rippling River and the old camp-ground I still see through the fast  dimning portals of the far-back, as old recollections sweep as it were,  the silver chords of memory with an angel's hand.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Fifteen years have gone by since we "Tented on the old Camp-ground."  Healdsburg has grown to be a flourishing city of nearly four thousand  inhabitants.  The iron horse snorts in the valley,--and drives the  swift wheels of progress from salt water to the mountains, consigning  to oblivion the old traveled ruts of former years; and the hum of a  riper civilization follows in the wake, and catching up the echo from  the hill-sides, rolls in gladsome tones through the beautiful valley,  down to the sea.</P>
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206.sgm:<HEAD>Our Redwood Cabin.<LB>(PARODY ON "THE OLD OAKEN BUCKET.")</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P>[The cabin refered to, still stands where it was built, in Pocket Kanion,  near Russian River, Sonoma County, Cal.  <HI REND="blockindent"><LB>How brightly it gleams, that scene in the forest,<LB>As old recollections float up from the past;<LB>The tall forest trees standing thick all around it,<LB>Whose shadows all day were over us cast.<LB>The Kanion below, and the brook that wound<LB>through it,<LB>Its clear waters serving in place of a well,<LB>And close by the stream, to the right as you'd<LB>view it<LB>Was our cabin of Redwood that stood in the dell.<LB>The old wagon road that wound through the<LB>deep valley--<LB>The young evergreens springing up by the way,<LB>Have left in my heart a lasting impression<LB>That shines from the past like a bright summer day.<LB>The bridge made of bark, and the old tree so near it,<LB>Uprooted by storms--lying just as it fell,<LB>Yet dearer than all, I shall ever revere it,<LB>Is the old Redwood cabin that stood in the dell.<LB>The soft, sighing winds and the roar of old ocean<LB>Sang us melodies rare through the still hours of night<LB>And those memories oft fill my heart with emotion,<LB>Though the scene in the forest has faded from sight.<LB>Of all earthly spots, that one seems the fairest;<LB>Like a cold drink of water from a deep crystal well,<LB>Or like an oasis in life's dreary desert<LB>Was the cabin we built in the cool shaded dell.<LB>Though years have gone by, and that home is far<LB>distant:<LB>Though between us the sands of the desert may swell<LB>Yet memory grows bright as it points me westward,<LB>To that rude cabin home that stood in the dell.</HI>
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206.sgm:<HEAD>A Journey Overland.<LB>FROM OMAHA TO SAN FRANCISCO.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P>As it has been the writer's fortune, or misfortune, as the case may  be, to make the trip from "the States" to California Four Times, within  the past sixteen years, I will give the Reader a partial glimpse of my  last journey (in 1879), between Omaha and San Francisco.  We took the  Emigrant Train, as the difference in the price is much greater than the  difference in accommodations.</P>
206.sgm:<P>I had my family with me, and although my eldest boy was rather over  size for "small children," we managed to run the gauntlet and come  through on two tickets.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Omaha is a bustling City, the grand starting point for travelers  enroute to the Far West, and at the big Union Depot, [which is now  located on the Iowa shore at Council Bluffs), getting on board a Western  bound Emigrant train with a family of small children, together with  the indispensible camp equippage--Blankets, pillows, cooking utensils,  provisions, etc., is no small job; there is always a vast crowd, of  cosmopolitan aspect--a general rush--a fearful jam, and dire confusion.   There is the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>50</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>At about 5 o'clock in the evening, the bell blew, the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>51</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>The country for two hundred miles west of Omaha, in regard to  natural beauty, and fertility is unequaled, and certainly offers rare inducements to those in search of cheap homes in a new and rising State.  We passed Columbus, Grand Island, North Platte, Sidney--all flourishing places, besides many other growing towns of minor importance, and in due time the entire State of Nebraska lay behind us, and the soil of festive Wyoming was pressed beneath us.  While traversing with snail-like pace through this region, our eyes feasted on the unsophisticated Cactus, scattering antelope, prairie dogs, stray buffalos, poor country, etc.,  until finally the grim peaks of the Rocky Mountains loomed up in the  distance.  Some dark and frowning, some covered with verdure, and others  mantled with snow.  The next point of interest was Cheyenne, 516 miles  from Omaha--elevation, 6,041 feet.</P>
206.sgm:<P>One hour at Cheyenne was principally spent around the bread and  sausage stalls, where we found everything of a most excellent order,  and at prices that left no room for grumbling.  That evening we reached  Sherman, (the summit] elevation, 8,242 feet, distant from Omaha, 550  miles, this is the highest point on the road, yet the ascent is so  gradual that one can scarcely realize the immense height obtained.  The  scenery is magnificently grand and beautiful, but tame compared with the  rugged steeps and dizzying precipices of the Wahsatch and Sierras.  Our  time from the summit to Ogden, was employed as usual, in buying grub,  spanking children--and gazing out of the car windows upon the most barren  and apparently God-forsaken country, that was ever <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>52</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>At Ogden we changed cars, and were pleased to find the sleeping accommodations of Central Pacific road were greatly superior to those on  the U.P.--comfortable and convenient bunks have recently been added to  the emigrant cars between Ogden and San Francisco.</P>
206.sgm:<P>After leaving Ogden, we traveled for quite a distance in plain  view of Great Salt Lake, [you can see it on the map].  We reached San  Francisco on the ninth day after leaving Omaha, and will also further  add that the sights along the road amply repay any one for coming to  California.  I could write a volume on the wonders and beauties of the  Wahsatch and Sierras, if I only had time and knew how.  At some places,  the motion of the train shook the pebbles from the beetling cliff's that  hang over the road, until they rattled against the car windows like  hail.--Huge boulders of tons weight, hang in menacing attitude, hundreds  of feet above, apparently ready to dash down and hurl the passing train  into unfathomable chasms that yawn below.  Somebody will get hurt on the Central Pacific road some day.</P>
206.sgm:<P>To those in moderate circumstances, who have a desire to come to  California, we would say; If you do not value time anything, and are  not ashamed to ride in a car with respectable people, take an emigrant  train.  If you get tired riding, you can get down and walk, and gather  the blooming cactus, or pebbles, and resume your seat at pleasure.  [This is no joke]</P>
206.sgm:<P>Lay in a big supply stock of provisions.  You will need all you  can carry.  It would be no bad idea to continue "laying in grub"  whenever an opportunity presents <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>53</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>We struck San Francisco when the Steamer, "City of Tokio,"--bringing  General U.S. Grant home from his "Trip Around the World--was hourly  expected.  The entire city was ablaze with enthusiasm.  Everybody wanted  to see the hero of the Great Rebellion.  Large portraits of the General  were to be seen everywhere, and the streets for miles in every direction  were hung with flags and festooned with banners.</P>
206.sgm:<P>On our first evening in the city we visited the Palace Hotel, the  most stupendous building of the kind in the World, and after night,  standing in the grand court-yard in the center of the building, I think  few grander sights can be witnessed in the new world.  The superb marble  floors, the brilliant lights, the beautiful fountains, the tropical  plants, the tramp of a thousand feet, the bewildering music, and the magnificent building itself all around you, is indeed a sight worth  seeing.</P>
206.sgm:<P>While in the city accompanied by our family, we visited Woodward's  Gardens, [every body who come to San Francisco, and has any time to  spend, should by all means spend a few hours at Woodward's Gardens].   It is perhaps the biggest show that has ever been exhibited on this  continent for the pusillanimous sum of twenty-five cents.  After a  little financial "dickering" with the gate-keeper, we found ourselves  inside the grand enclosure, which embraces about ten acres.  The walls  of the enclosure are surmounted at intervals with magnificent bronze  statues of noted men and animals.  First we <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>54</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>In the Museum we found everything we had ever saw, heard of or  read about--curiosities and wonders gathered from every portion of the  globe; magnificent mineral specimens taken from the mines of California,  Arizona, Australia, Mexico, &amp;c., thousands of rare and beautiful  shells of ocean, curious coins, bearing date long before the time of the C&oelig;sars; grand old relies from Egypt and Palestine, a huge piece from  the great wall of China; old scraps of history on parchment, festooned  with the dust of dead centuries; rusty armor that had once gleamed on  the Crusaders in the days of chivalry, "a long time ago;" the stump of  the cocoa tree under which Capt. Cook was murdered by the Hawaaian  savages: and a thousand other curiosities that space forbids mentioning.</P>
206.sgm:<P>I will just add that it would monopolize one whole week to view all  the things of interest in the Gardens.  The Grand Menagerie, by far the  largest collection of animals on the Pacific Coast; the grand array of  birds from South America and the Eastern Isles, the moving panorama of  the great city and the shipping in the bay to be witnessed in the  observatory, the shady dells, the rustic bridges and pleasant resting  places, the lovely walks, the magnificent trees, the brilliant flowers and tall grasses form a world of beauty within themselves.  Woodward's Gardens may be summed up as a ten acre show.</P>
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206.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>A CHAPTER ON FACTS.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">HO, ye people from afar-off<LB>You who live beyond the mountains;<LB>Far beyond the Rocky Mountains;<LB>Far beyond the sandy deserts,<LB>Away beyond the yellow waters<LB>Of the mighty Mississippi,<LB>Come and listen to my story.<LB>Rally 'round and get up closer<LB>That you may learn all about it;<LB>Though it is a simple story<LB>Nevertheless it is a true one.<LB>I will now attempt to tell you,<LB>Just exactly what's the matter,<LB>In relation to this climate,<LB>Of this California climate.<LB>There is much that's very pleasant,<LB>Pleasant in the balmy Spring-time,<LB>Pleasant in the months of Summer,<LB>Pleasant in the dreamy Autumn--<LB>For the Sun it shines out brightly,<LB>For eight months it shines out brightly<LB>And the breezes blow so softly<LB>From the great Pacific Ocean--<LB>Then comes on the rainy season,<LB>The California winter season;<LB>Dark and gloomy is that season,<LB>Sometimes raining all the winter,<LB>Sometimes raining sometimes ceasing<LB>Ceasing only to renew it,<LB>Until the valleys fills with water,<LB>Till the torrent down the mountains<LB>Rushes madly down the mountains,<LB>Rushes headlong down the mountains<LB>Rushes down with fearful roaring,<LB>Sweeping everything before it,<LB>In its headlong course before it:<LB>Thus the rains keep on descending,<LB>Thus the valleys fill with water,<LB>Through the dismal rainy season,<LB>In the land of California.</HI>
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206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Some say people never die here,<LB> Never die but live forever,<LB>Keep on living till they dry up;<LB>But in this they are mistaken,<LB>For 'tis here the same as elsewhere,<LB>People they grow sick and die here,<LB>Die because they cannot help it,<LB>Die, and start off on that journey,<LB>On that dark, uncertain journey,<LB>To that land beyond the river,<LB>To the land of the Hereafter.<LB>Leave this land of gold and sunshine,<LB>Leave the smiling little valleys,<LB>Leave the grand old mountain ranges<LB>Leave this land of wild adventure,<LB>Leave this land of wondrous beauty,<LB>Leave the land of California--<LB>Ranchmen leave their herds of cattle<LB>Leave their herds and tasty vineyards<LB>The Indian leaves his little wig-wam,<LB>Leaves the fresh trail of the red deer,<LB>Leaves his arrows in the quiver,<LB>Leaves his light canoe of red-wood;<LB>The miner drops his pick and shovel<LB>Looks no more for gold or silver,--<LB>No more for the Almighty Dollar,<LB>Sees his sun of life descending,<LB>Going down into the ocean,<LB>In the Future's fearful ocean,<LB>Takes a last look at his cabin,<LB>Sees this bright world fast receding,<LB>Looks his last on all things earthly,<LB>Then he takes his lone departure.<LB>Leaves the land of song and story,<LB>Leaves the land of California,<LB>And journeys on as all men must do,<LB>To the land of the Hereafter.<LB>Such is life, as I have found it,<LB>Such is life this wide world over,<LB>Life is short and Death is certain,<LB>On the land or on the ocean--<LB>And 'tis the same in California.</HI>
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206.sgm:<HEAD>The Author's Opinion.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P>EVERY cloud has its silver lining; every picture has its bright  side; there is a sunny spot in every heart; and there is something good--even noble in the nature of every man; and we also believe there is good  in every Political and Religious organization.  Every country, every  State--every district has its advantages as also its disadvantages; and  from my own personal observation, during several years residence on the  Pacific Coast, I feel justified in saying that California forms no  exception to the general rule.  And what I say concerning this country,  I shall endeavor to say--not from a desire to please any particular class  of individuals, but from a desire to deal fairly and squarely with my fellow-men,--and "Tell the TRUTH, though the Heavens fall."</P>
206.sgm:<P>I first came to California in quest of adventure; and after two  years I returned to the "States" thoroughly disappointed, and disgusted  with everything pertaining to this western country,--and strange though  it may seem, since that time, I have repeated the trip to California  no less than THREE different times,--and I am in California TO-DAY,  financially "busted" and out of flour!</P>
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206.sgm:<P>I give these facts, simply for illustration; for California to-day  can furnish a thousand similar cases; and perhaps not one among the  number can give a rational reason for his acting "thusly."</P>
206.sgm:<P>Now, we all know that just so long as Time lasts, people will come  to California and go back again, and perhaps repeat the operation until  they become financially demoralized; and all that I may say, pro or con,  will have little or no effect upon the roving class, for in nine cases  out of ten they will take their own heads for it any way; nevertheless,  I am going to say something for the benefit of those who have never been  on the Pacific coast, who have their heads set for the Far West.  And my  advice honestly given, is this:--Do not sell out your old homes and pull  up stakes, and rush off to California, merely on the strength of what you  have heard; but if you are determined to come--,then by all means first  come and `See how it is yourself."  Let me illustrate: "A man from OUR neighborhood went to California, and in less than one year he `struck  pay dirt' and came home rich."--(and no doubt married the Squire's  daughter),</P>
206.sgm:<P>Readers, you have all heard about that man--of course you have.  He  lived in OUR neighborhood--also in YOURS; in fact he lives in almost  every neighborhood East of the Missouri River.  But, did you ever hear  about those other fifty men who went from `our respective neighborhoods'  to California, and struck a different kind of `dirt', and didn't make a fortune "worth a cent," but on the contrary, got poorer day by day, and would have starved to death, had they not hung around the "Free Soup Houses" in San Francisco, until their <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>59</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>California is a queer country.  Some people like it after they  get here, while others are greatly disappointed and consequently  dissatisfied.  Fruit of all kinds is plentiful, but not so cheap as  one would imagine.  Everything is sold by the pound.  Land in favorable  localities is what I consider "away up," ranging all the way from  twenty to four hundred dollars per acre, according to the location and  improvements.  Timber, especially for fuel, in middle and Northern  California, is plentiful and moderately cheap; while in the Southern  portions of the State, it is very scarce, and consequently very dear.   Lumber, Flour, Beef and Mutton command about the same prices as in the  "Western States."  Butter, Milk, Chickens, Eggs, and Corn Meal always  command high prices, and rank among the Luxuries of the Pacific Slope.   Wages are just about the same as in Iowa, Kansas and Nebraska, but the  demand for laborers is not near so steady as in those last mentioned  States.</P>
206.sgm:<P>The Climate is said to be `Immense.'  In some respects it IS.   Tornadoes, wind-storms, thunder and lightning are of rare occurrence--in many portions of the State, there is scarcely enough wind in the  course of a year to blow a straw hat off a man's head--that is, of  course, if he is the right kind of a man.  There are perhaps on an  average, as many as two hundred bright, clear days in the course of the  year; and during the remainder of the year, it is either raining or  liable to rain.  The rainy season usually sets in during the latter  part of October, and continues, at intervals, until May.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Take the State over, the Scenery is grandly magnificent and  beautiful beyond description; but the contemplating emigrant must bear  in mind the fact, that scenery <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>60</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>For me to attempt to give the Reader a correct idea of California,  as regards her vast resources, her wonderful productions, the enchanting  scenery, and the bewildering climate, would be much like an elephant  trying to climb to the Moon on a cob-web ladder, or like a poor man  trying to make himself popular in a wealthy and aristocratic community;  or the editor of a newspaper undertaking to please all his patrons: These  things rank among the impossibilities of this world.</P>
206.sgm:<P>It is well known that California is rich in her Mineral resources;  but the `flush' days for the common miner has passed away.  The big  claims that pay `Thousands' are controlled by capitalists, who have  to be wealthy before they can work the mines successfully; and now, as  in other countries, 'tis the same in California:--The unfortunate MANY  work for the fortunate FEW.</P>
206.sgm:<P>The Coast counties, in my opinion, are the most suitable for homes.   Wheat, Oats, and Barley are raised in immense quantities, and in fact  almost everything that can be raised in any country is successfully  grown on the Pacific coast.  The Orange groves of Southern California already yield an immense revenue, and the vineyards, scattered all over  the State, will at no distant day, surpass the generous regions of the  Rhine, while cattle, sheep and hardy horses cover the hills and valleys  in vast numbers, but of course this is the sunny side; for although  eighty bushels of wheat is sometimes produced from a single acre, yet  it must be borne in mind that four-fifths of the entire State does  not contain sufficient soil to produce dog-fennel.  And the people of  California to-day tell us that "The climate isn't like it used to be;  the soil doesn't produce so well--the rainy season lasts longer; and  disease, too, with its shadowy forms and pale faces, is creeping in and  gaining a foot-hold in the lovely valleys, along the <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>61</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>How all this is, I will not say (maybe the people grow harder to  please), but will leave it for others to decide.  I hold to the doctrine  that few of us truly appreciate the blessings of To-Day.  We seldom know  when we are at home.  Although far advanced in the walks of civilization  yet a great many of us do not know how to be happy, and let me impress  upon the minds of all poor men the fact: that it is a dangerous and  risky business to move with a family two thousand miles in any direction  at least without first looking over the field.  [I have tried it three different times, and I speak `by the Book'].  California has disappointed  and ruined more people than she has enriched, satisfied or bettered.   Rich or poor, a contented mind is better than Gold.  It is everything.   It is Health, Wealth and Happiness: And I feel safe in saying: he who leaves a good home East of the Rocky Mountains, with a heavy heart, a discontented mind, and a roving disposition, will rarely find on the Pacific Coast, that which he seeketh--for "ALL THAT GLITTERS IS NOT  GOLD."</P>
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206.sgm:<illus entity="a206-0013" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>LAST OF THE MOHICANS.</P>
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206.sgm:<DIV><HEAD>Miscellaneous Poems.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">RETROSPECTION</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Thoughts of other days surround me,<LB>Wafted up by memory's flow;<LB>Within my heart they're sadly pointing<LB>Back to thirty years ago.<LB>Through the haze, and misty shadows,<LB>Wove by Time's unceasing tide,<LB>I see the old familiar homestead<LB>Where a loving brother died.<LB>And looking back a little farther,<LB>Voices sad fall on my ear:<LB>A little group of children gather,<LB>Bitterly weeping--'round a bier.<LB>Faint and fainter grow the voices<LB>'Round that pallid form of clay;<LB>Yet even now, I hear the whisper:--<LB>"Mother, she has passed away."<LB>Years since then have come and vanished,<LB>Leaving in their rapid flight,<LB>Hopes of future by the way-side,<LB>That bloomed in morn to fade at night;<LB>And now I find me looking backward<LB>Through the dreary space so wide,<LB>Through the thickening, hazy curtains,<LB>To the day when Mother died.<LB>Oh! how fond is memory's pleading<LB>With our hearts, grown rude and cold,<LB>Causing us to retrace our foot-steps<LB>To the scenes in days of old;<LB>Leaving behind fond recollections,<LB>Of cherished ones "gone on before;"<LB>And feeling too, that we are nearer--<LB>Closer to the "Other Shore."</HI>
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206.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">LINES TO "OLD REED."</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">This is one of my first attempts at rhyming, it being a "short-hand" exhortation to my old partner in 1866, to induce him to return with me to  the land of our nativity.  It is needless to say that this "fetched him,"</HI>
206.sgm:<HI REND="blockindent"><LB>Old friend, let's go where fragrant blossoms<LB>Load the air with sweet perfume,<LB>Where the fruit defies for flavor<LB>All the lands 'long-side the Sea,--<LB>Say, don't you feel like starting<LB>To that happy land with me?<LB>Where the blue birds and the black birds and<LB>the jay birds sing so merrily<LB>In the early dewy morn,<LB>Making music for the plowman<LB>In the fields of yellow corn and white corn.<LB>Where the people can be happy,<LB>If they only try to be;<LB>So sell your claim for whatever you can get,<LB>And sling yourself back home with me;<LB>Where wild grapes they hang in clusters,<LB>Throughout the forests brown,<LB>And black haws and persimons and pawpaws<LB>like a lot of us boys at the close of a<LB>dance one night--<LB>Lie scattered on the ground;<LB>To that land that lies so far away,<LB>On Mississippi's shore,<LB>Where oft you've battled with the tide, while<LB>working on the railroad for your hash,<LB>In the good old days of yore.<LB>Dear old Reed, my heart grows sad--<LB>I can scarce suppress a sigh,<LB>To think that as well a put up man as you are<LB>would come away out here, for to chop<LB>wood and maul rails and then curl his<LB>self up<LB>And then pile down and die;<LB>For there's nothing on this dreary coast<LB>But sighs and endless fears,<LB>That follow us like a well trained coon dog<LB>from early in the morning until a long<LB>ways after night,<LB>Adown the steep of years.</HI>
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206.sgm:<HEAD><HI REND="italics">THE MARCH OF TIME</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Upon the golden span of To-day's bright shore<LB>we stand;<LB>And looking back through retrospection's vale,<LB>Visions, sad and beautiful--woven in Life's fitful<LB>dream, before us rise.<LB>`Tis Spring, and o'er the earth the queen of<LB>beauty walks;<LB>Boyish foot-prints on the hill-side and in the<LB>vale we see--<LB>As though but yesterday they had been made,<LB>And fancies of youthful days flit before us<LB>with the same freshness--once so real,<LB>Ere from our sight they were hurried by the<LB>remorseless flight of time.</HI>
206.sgm:<P>A low-roofed cottage, with creeping vines we<LB>see--<LB>And down the beaten path, a mother leads her<LB>boy.<LB>Time rolls on--<LB>The Summer's heat and noon-day's sun has<LB>come and gone;<LB>Autumn, with its "sere and yellow leaf" has<LB>tinged the forest trees,<LB>And given place to stern Winter, who holds all<LB>earth in fetters grim.<LB>Years glide by.--</P>
206.sgm:<P>Gone are the bright visions, and in their stead<LB>we see a lonely grave;<LB>And over it kneels a bent and aged form,<LB>In whose shrunken eyes we recognize the boy of<LB>long years ago!<LB>And as the moaning wind goes by, we catch the<LB>meaning of his trembling voice,<LB>As he sobs out the sacred name of--"Mother."</P>
206.sgm:<P>In one swift glance, we see how life begins--<LB>and where the weary march will end.<LB>A myth--a dream or vision, that one rude blast<LB>will e'en dissolve.<LB>Nations by that invisible power, spring up and<LB>people the broad universe:--<LB>Are born, and live--to droop and die!</P>
206.sgm:<P>And generations yet unborn,<LB>Perchance, in future ages, upon their graves<LB>Will look, and wonder who beneath them lies.<LB>The mighty warriors who guarded once<LB><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>66</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:the gates of Thebes,<LB>Or lined the banks of the Euphrates--<LB>Whose prowess for centuries kept the Eastern<LB>world at bay,<LB>Had for their light, the same Sun, and Moon,<LB>and Stars that we do now behold;<LB>And they, perchance, oft-times looked back to the foot prints, and<LB>Upon the resting place of their ancestors' dust.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Still onward sweeps the tide of years:--<LB>Sceptres, before whose imperial sway, nations. paled--lies broken.<LB>Empires, proud cities, massive gates and mighty<LB>walls, into decay,<LB>Before the resistless march of Time have crumbled.</P>
206.sgm:<P>To-day, a thousand fleets ride high o'er ocean<LB>waves--<LB>To-morrow, a thousand ghastly wrecks bestrew the shore;<LB>But Time, the great Tomb Builder, strides on;<LB>His foot-steps never lag.<LB>Suns rise and set; and through the realms of space, glides the pale Moon--<LB>Bathing in her silvery light, Mountains, Rivers and Plains that reflected her glances<LB>When first the world began.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Seasons come and go,<LB>Nor heed the fate of man, who with feverish brow and anxious tread,<LB>Plods wearily through his allotted space, seeking, as it were a place--to die.<LB>But, thank God, a Hope--gathering strength from that golden promise--<LB>Within our heart shines forth:<LB>Whispering of a fairer land than this, for those who love the Lord;--<LB>And from whence there'll be <HI REND="italics">no looking back</HI>
206.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">MY OLD CANOE</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent"><LB>'Twas Spring--the birds were warbling<LB>Their carols all around;<LB>I left the home of boy-hood's years,<LB>For the Western country bound.<LB>The sun shone bright o'er fields of green,<LB>--I waved my last adieu;</HI>
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206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">As with swelling heart and dimning eyes<LB>I launched my Life Canoe.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The deep sea widened 'round my bark--<LB>Strange voices filled the air;<LB>Yet though, with strangers on the deep,<LB>I knew that God was there.<LB>Time rolled on, and soon I stood<LB>Upon a distant shore:--<LB>California's soil beneath my feet,<LB>And her blue sky spreading o'er</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Two years sped by, and I awoke<LB>From that bright gilded dream;<LB>And with my old canoe, once more,<LB>I pushed out in the stream.<LB>When boisterous waves or adverse winds<LB>My efforts did deride,<LB>I laid my paddle idly down<LB>And drifted with the tide.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Though my boat was shattered by the<LB>storms,<LB>And my hands grown brown with toil,<LB>I knew that welcome waited me<LB>Upon my native soil.<LB>And when I saw the dear old shore<LB>Rise over the waters blue,<LB>I knew that a landing place was near,<LB>For me and my old canoe.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">My canoe now lies upon the banks<LB>Of Life's tempestuous stream,<LB>While far above the stormy heights,<LB>I see the Light-house gleam.<LB>My last great cruise I soon must take;<LB>To earth-land bid adieu,--<LB>And into the mists of unknown seas,<LB>I'll push my old canoe.</HI>
206.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">TO "TOM BROWN</HI>
206.sgm:.<LB>(An Army Comrade.)</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Some sixteen years ago, Tom Brown,<LB>I struck for the Western Sea;<LB>And old-time memories prompt me now<LB>To write these lines to thee;<LB>For, no matter where I go, dear Tom,<LB>I am ready to proclaim:--<LB>Our friendship nought on earth can brea<LB>--And I know you'll say the same.</HI>
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206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Tom Brown, the years go flitting by--<LB>Our work will soon be done:<LB>Life's battle, fought by you and I,<LB>Will soon be lost or won!<LB>And with old recollections<LB>Swelling in my heart to-night,<LB>I can't refrain from asking:--<LB>Have we fought the goodly fight?</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Perhaps the world is changing,<LB>And the snares in this great land,<LB>For weak and wayward mortals,<LB>Grow harder to withstand;<LB>But oft our mode of living<LB>Converts Morning into Noon:--<LB>Makes Summer months to flee away,<LB>And Winter come too soon.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Tom Brown, while cherished memories<LB>Flood my heart with golden light--<LB>Days,--aye--years of the olden time<LB>Spread out before my sight:--<LB>The tented field--the bivouc fire;<LB>The tempest's angry frown,<LB>A cabin that sheltered two old friends:--<LB>Myself and Thomas Brown.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Though we may meet no more on earth,<LB>As in the days of yore;<LB>They tell me there's a Better Land<LB>Upon a Golden Shore!<LB>And my heart grows strong within me,<LB>As adown Life's Stream I row,<LB>For in that bright land I hope to meet<LB>Tom Brown, of the "Long Ago."</HI>
206.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">MY OLD "E FLAT"</HI>
206.sgm:<P>I once had a great desire to become a member of a Brass Band; that  desire was gratified, but unfortunately I selected an "E Flat" horn,  and thirteen days after, I came out--at the "little end"--tendered my  resignation, and sent in my application for a pension).</P>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Show me the man in all this town,<LB>Or even in the country 'round,<LB>Where-ever he may be, or can be found,<LB>From a dandy'd flirt that pride begat,<LB>To a man or boy of any kind,<LB>Who has an ample supply of wind<LB>To blow my old "E flat.</HI>
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206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Fetch 'round the lad; I'll go for him;<LB>I'll satisfy his every whim,<LB>And through the papers I'll `blow' for him<LB>And on all occasions pass 'round the hat<LB>To support his family in after years--<LB>To keep them all from shedding tears<LB>For Father who died (in a horn) so flat.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Oh! I'd like to see with my own eyes,<LB>The man who lives under Northern skies<LB>Who wishes upon the "Air" to rise--<LB>Who is foolish enough, and all that,<LB>To tarry long with this piece of brass,<LB>Making a noise resembling an ass--<LB>Which is all I can do on my "E flat,</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">There must be some reckless chap around<LB>In the country, or within the town,<LB>In limb and wind almighty sound,<LB>That would like to "smell a rat."<LB>Show me the man--I'll give him a horn,<LB>That will make him wish he'd never been<LB>born<LB>In the days of my "E flat.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">They say this is a progressive age,<LB>And every body has grown so sage--<LB>To go ahead is all the rage;<LB>They can all do this and that.<LB>But I want to see that man "for fun,"<LB>Who by a horn can't be out-done.<LB>He must be a perfect "blow" or none,<LB>For it will take a regular "son of a gun"<LB>To blow my old "E flat."</HI>
206.sgm:<DIV><HEAD><HI REND="italics">OUT IN THE DARK</HI>
206.sgm:<P>(Inscribed to "Jim Jones, of the Foot-Hills").</P>
206.sgm:<P>Jim was a noble hearted, man, but like many others of his stamp,  had contracted an unconquerable appetite for strong drink: and when I  last saw him he was completely in the power of the `Rum Fiend.' </P>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Out in the dark, on the drunkard's road,<LB>I am trudging along the way;<LB>With hardly a ray of hope beyond--<LB>And my head fast turning gray<LB>For years along life's path way<LB>I have groped in fear and doubt,<LB>While in the chambers of my heart,<LB>The light seems going out.</HI>
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206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I once was deemed the `foremost man'<LB>In all this country 'round--<LB>And called "a public benefactor"<LB>By the people of the town:<LB>Kind fortune smiled upon me,<LB>And left her golden mark;<LB>But, too weak to stand temptation--<LB>I drifted in the Dark.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I've watched my fated star grow dim,<LB>Till it faded from my sight--<LB>Amid the wreck of miss-spent years,<LB>While blacker grows the night.<LB>Few, save the wretched drunkard,<LB>Who on troubled seas embark,<LB>Can ever realize what it is<LB>To be--"Out in the Dark."</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The lines are deepening on my brow--<LB>I am "going fast" they say;<LB>And the shadows thicken 'round me,<LB>As I stagger on my way.<LB>My once loved childrens' prattle,<LB>Heard in the family are,<LB>Grows fainter in the distance--<LB>As I drift in the Dark.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">The grass will soon be growing<LB>Above us all, I know;<LB>But my wife and children they will be,<LB>Where the father cannot go.<LB>In a bright land "Over yonder,"<LB>They will wear a shining mark;<LB>While I, the wretched drunkard.<LB>Will be--"Out in the Dark.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I can feel my boat fast gliding<LB>In the shadows, cold and gray;<LB>Comes again the fearful warning:--<LB>I am "passing fast away."<LB>I can hear the billows dashing<LB>Against the Stygian shore;<LB>But alas!--I can see no beacon<LB>To guide me safely o'er.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Memory's waves go surging past me--<LB>And hark! above the roar,<LB>I can hear my children calling--<LB>From the fast receding shore;<LB>The `Rum Fiend,' that hideous monster,<LB>Sounds out the dismal knell,<LB>That shuts me out from Heaven,<LB>And drags me down--to Hell.</HI>
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206.sgm:<HEAD><HI REND="italics">CENTENNIAL GREETING.</HI>
206.sgm:<P>(First published January 1st, 1876).</P>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">To the bright and sunny South-land,<LB>Where the queen of beauty walks;<LB>To the Valleys and the Mountains,<LB>And to the Northern Lakes;<LB>To Pacific's Goldeu Gate-way,<LB>To the Eastern coast of Maine;<LB>With a happy New Year's Greeting,<LB>We come to you again.</HI>
206.sgm:<P>To greet the American people,<LB>Of all ages--great and small,<LB>From the youngest in the family,<LB>To the father of them all.<LB>'Tis a big page in our history,<LB>For the outside world to read,<LB>Of the many grand projections<LB>We've achieved with lightning speed;</P>
206.sgm:<P>While Earthquakes and Revolutions<LB>Have sank some countries down,<LB>This great American Nation<LB>Still proudly marches on;<LB>And this whole united people--<LB>Ever at work or on the way,<LB>Have carried on their business,<LB>And kept the World at bay!</P>
206.sgm:<P>That glad day was just dawning--<LB>That set the hills aglow,<LB>Proclaiming our Independence--<LB>ONE HUNDRED YEARS AGO!<LB>Now, our sails they whiten every sea,<LB>With the Starry Flag unfurled;<LB>And our Country it is honored<LB>Throughout the entire world.</P>
206.sgm:<P>One glance at proud America--<LB>(O, we love to write the name),<LB>Is enough to make our school-boys<LB>Climb up the steps of Fame;<LB>For the road to Honor's Temple<LB>Is nowhere so easy trod--<LB>As it is in Free America,<LB>Upon her sacred sod.</P>
206.sgm:<P>From the green hills of New England,<LB>To where Pacific's breakers roar,--<LB>From the coast of grim Alaska,<LB>Clear down to our Southern shore--<LB><PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>72</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:We humbly thank our Great Creator,<LB>That our country is at peace--<LB>And the old American Eagle<LB>Proudly soars o'er all the space.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Out upon the mighty ocean,<LB>And on every foreign strand,<LB>There is a strong impression that<LB>Our Flag's upheld by God's own hand;<LB>And we, as true Americans,<LB>Should pray to Israel's God,<LB>That no other Flag but ours shall ever<LB>Find a foot-hold on our sod.</P>
206.sgm:<P>We are Republican to the centre,--<LB>Always vote the Union " <HI REND="italics">Straight</HI>
206.sgm:,"<LB>For that we think, is the safest Ticket,<LB>To carry us through the ` <HI REND="italics">Narrow Gate</HI>
206.sgm:;'<LB>And if there are any <HI REND="italics">favors</HI>
206.sgm: shown.<LB>Up in that World of Light,,--<LB>We believe the old `Army of the Union'<LB>Will be formed upon the " <HI REND="italics">Right</HI>
206.sgm:<P>With the misty curtain rising--<LB>Rising up from memory's shore,<LB>Comes the echo of familiar foot-steps,<LB>Rising high above the roar,--<LB>With the bright blue sky above us--<LB>With our feet upon the span<LB>That binds the ever-present<LB>With the Past and Future-land:--<LB>Comes the feeling in our bosom,<LB>Comes the mist into our eyes,<LB>As we watch the scenes receding,<LB>With the year that backward flies.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Dear readers: while cherished memories,<LB>Are clustering 'round us here;<LB>Let us form new resolutions,<LB>For a better life, this year.<LB>Let us all be known hereafter<LB>For the Good that we can do:<LB>And scatter joy and gladness<LB>Wherever we may go;<LB>And though storms will toss and rock us<LB>From morning until night--<LB>Let us fight Life's fitful battles,<LB>On the side of Truth and Right.</P>
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206.sgm:<HEAD><HI REND="italics">ADIEU TO CALIFORNIA</HI>
206.sgm:<P>(Written on my return to the "States" by water in 1866).  </P>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">I'm going home, Oh, California--<LB>Fades thy land-scape from my view,<LB>Through the Golden Gate we're passing,<LB>Out upon the ocean blue.<LB>All thy mountains, hills and valleys<LB>Look to me more lovely, now;<LB>All thy fields and shady wood-lands,<LB>With fresher verdure seem to grow.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Oft while in your lonely gulches,<LB>Seeking for the golden sand,<LB>I have cursed the luck of miners,<LB>And Pacific's sunny strand;<LB>But when thoughts come crowding o'er me<LB>Of my leaving thee for aye,<LB>Forgotten are all disappointments--<LB>I can but say: a kind adieu.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Far behind me now are fading<LB>The checkered scenes of Western life;<LB>No more will I come back to view them,<LB>Filled as they were with toil and strife.<LB>The white sails in the wind are flut'ring;<LB>My eyes once more rest on the land:<LB>But fast 'tis fading--fast receding;<LB>Again I wave the friendly hand.</HI>
206.sgm:<P><HI REND="blockindent">Around our ship the shadows gather,<LB>Bright, o'er the waves, the moon-light beams,<LB>While far above our noble bark<LB>The faithful head-light gleams;<LB>The sunny land far out has faded,<LB>Old ocean's waves around me swell;<LB>Home voices in my heart are whispering:<LB>Pacific shores, a long farewell.</HI>
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206.sgm:<HEAD>PEN PICTURE OF CLOVERDALE.</HEAD>
206.sgm:<P>IT would no doubt seem ungrateful in me, were I to make no special  mention of Cloverdale, in this little book, and in justice to the liberal  hearted inhabitants--among whom we have made our home, and from whom we  have derived our support in the Newspaper business during the past year,  I subjoin the following; which I deem a pretty correct statement:</P>
206.sgm:<P>Cloverdale is situated in the extreme Northern portion of Sonoma county--almost at the very extreme head of the great Russian River  Valley, and is the present terminus of the San Francisco &amp; North Pacific Railroad.  It has an elevation of 350 feet above the level of  the sea; it contains a population of about seven hundred people; and  has natural advantages which, in time, should make it a place of  considerable importance.</P>
206.sgm:<P>The Town was first laid out in October, 1859, by J. A. Kleizer;  and in 1872, Mr. Kleizer laid out an addition on the West side, H. Kier  also laid out an addition on the North, and Doyle &amp; Overton one on  the South.  The present limits contain about three hundred acres.</P>
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206.sgm:<P>The Railroad was completed to this point in 1872, and since that  time, the growth of the town, although never rapid, has been steady and  continued.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Cloverdale is distant from San Francisco ninety miles, transit  between the two places being made in four hours, by Rail and Steamer.    Two trains run daily,--making it convenient for Travelers and Residents.   Four Stages also, depart regularly for Lakeport, Ukiah, Big River, the  Geysers, Mendocino and other principal parts in Northern California.</P>
206.sgm:<P>The Town is regularly laid out--the streets crossing at right  angles, many of them being handsomely shaded with beautiful trees.  It  contains three church-buildings--Congregational, Catholic, and Methodist;  also a very substantial School-building; and many handsome residences  adorn the principal streets and suburbs.  Two miles distant, on Sulphur  Creek, a good Flouring Mill is located--(run by water power), producing  a superior quality of flour, meal etc.  The town is abundantly supplied  with good pure water, coveyed by pipes from an adjacent mountain spring.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Cloverdale is situated within a short distance of Russian River and Sulphur Creek (the latter entering the former a little North-east  of town).  They are both beautiful streams, Sulphur Creek, in many  respects, resembling the Truckee in the Sierra Nevadas and the Weber  in the Wassatch Range; they are the delight of the hunter and angler,  who rarely fail to find remunerative sport along their winding and  picturesque banks.</P>
206.sgm:<P>The great Valley of Russian River, beginning in the vicinity of  Cloverdale, and extending clear down to Petaluma, a distance of fifty  miles, is of remarkable beauty and fertility, producing almost everything  in the shape of grain, fruit, vegetables &amp;c., that can be found  anywhere in the temperate zone and the tropics, Wheat, oats, rye, barley,  hops, potatoes, beets, apples, peaches, pears, <PAGEINFO><CONTROLPGNO>77</CONTROLPGNO>
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206.sgm:<P>Cloverdale contains 4 Dry Goods Stores, 2 Hardware stores; 1  Tin shop; 4 Hotels; 1 Bakery; 2 Drug Stores; 1 Harness Shop; 3 Livery  Stables; 6 Saloons; 1 Paint Shop; 2 Barber Shops; 2 Meat Markets; 2  Milliner &amp; Dress-Making establishments; 2 Lumber Yards; 1 Tailor;  2 Blacksmith Shops; 1 General Warehouse and Commission Merchant; 6  Grocery Stores; 1 Real Estate Office; 1 Public Hall; 2 General Stage  Offices; 1 Express Office; 1 Newspaper and Job Printing office; 3 Shoe  Shops; 1 Jewelry Store; 1 Public Library; 3 Insurance Offices; 2 Fruit  and Candy Stores; 1 Furniture Dealer and Undertaker; 2 Bricklayers &amp; Plasterers; 4 Contractors &amp; Builders; 4 Wine-Cellars; 1 Brewery.</P>
206.sgm:<P>In the year of 1879, there was shipped from Cloverdale as  follows:--Stock, 74 cars; Staves, 1 car; Grain, 4,446, 753 pounds,  Flour, 308,555 pounds; Wine, 28,650 lbs., Wool, 1,903,791 pounds; Eggs,  1,7000 pounds; Fruit, 6,200 pounds; Poultry, 25,220 pounds; Hides 81,424  lbs., Hops, 330,841 pounds; Quicksilver, 1,725 lbs., Grapes, 180,300  pounds; Miscellaneous, 280,387 pounds.  This refers to freight shipments  alone, aside from all shipments by Express.</P>
206.sgm:<P>Cloverdale is situated in the natural gate-way of one of the  finest and most extensive wool-growing regions of the Pacific coast, which should make it an important manufacturing point in the near  future.  Three miles Northwest are the Alder Glenn Mineral Springs,  whose excellent waters attract the attention of the tourist and invalid.   The Great Geysers are only 16 miles distant almost due East; and during  the Spring, Summer, and Autumn, the road between Cloverdale and that  widely famed resort, is lined with visitors from almost every portion of  the civilized world.</P>
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206.sgm:<P>The scenery surrounding Cloverdale is grandly magnificent,  picturesque and beautiful.  An irregular range of high hills rise  on the East and West, on the North are the mountains of Mendocino  and Lake counties; while the ever-green valley, widening as it  stretches South-ward, interspersed with scattering clumps of live oak,  pine, fir, madrone and manzineta, or dotted with rustic farm-houses;  the fields of waving grain, tasty vineyards and inviting orchards; the  clear waters of Russian River babbling over its pebbly bed; and in the  distance, on either side, the eternal hills, clothed in their variegated  robes of matchless beauty--all combine to form a picture of more than  ordinary loveliness.</P>
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206.sgm:<AD><illus entity="a206-0018" MAP="no"><CAPTION><P>CLOVERDALE ADVERTISEMENTS</P>